---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,modern ,,cookery ,,for ,,private ,,families ,,by ,,eliza ,,acton ,,new ,,edition ,,london ,,longmans1 ,,green1 ,,reader1 ,,and ,,dyer #ahhb4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,preface4 ------- ,it cannot be denied that an improved system of practical domestic cookery1 and a better knowledge of its first principles1 are still much needed in this country2 where1 from ignorance1 or from mismanagement in their preparation1 the daily waste of excellent provisions almost exceeds belief4 ,this waste is in itself a very serious evil where so large a portion of the community often procure--as they do in ,england--with painful difficulty1 and with the heaviest labour1 even sufficient bread to sustain existence2 but the amount of positive disease which is caused amongst us by improper food1 or by food rendered unwholesome by a bad mode of cooking it1 seems a greater evil still4 ,the influence of diet upon health is indeed a subject of far deeper importance than it would usually appear to be considered1 if we may judge by the profound indifference with which it is commonly treated4 ,it has occupied1 it is true1 the earnest attention of many eminent men of science1 several of whom have recently investigated it with the most patient and laborious research1 the results of which they have made known to the world in their writings1 accompanied1 in some instances1 by information of the highest value as to the most profitable and nutritious modes of preparing various kinds of viands4 ,in arranging the present enlarged edition of this volume for publication1 ,i have gladly taken advantage of such of their instructions 7those of ,baron ,liebig especially7 as have seemed to me adapted to its character1 and likely to increase its real utility4 ,these1 ,i feel assured1 if carefully followed out1 will much assist our progress in culinary art1 and diminish the unnecessary degree of expenditure which has hitherto attended its operations2 for it may safely be averred that good cookery is the best and truest economy1 turning to full account every wholesome article of food1 and converting into palatable meals1 what the ignorant either render uneatable1 or throw away in disdain4 ,it is a popular error to imagine that what is called good cookery is adapted only to the establishments of the wealthy1 and that it is beyond the reach of those who are not affluent4 ,on the contrary1 it matters comparatively little whether some few dishes1 amidst an abundant variety1 be prepared in their perfection or not2 but it is of the utmost consequence that the food which is served at the more simply supplied tables of the middle classes should all be well and skilfully prepared1 particularly as it is from these classes that the men principally emanate to whose indefatigable industry1 high intelligence1 and active genius1 we are mainly indebted for our advancement in science1 in art1 in literature1 and in general civilisation4 ,when both the mind and body are exhausted by the toils of the day1 heavy or unsuitable food1 so far from recruiting their enfeebled powers1 prostrates their energies more completely1 and acts in every way injuriously upon the system2 and it is no exaggeration to add1 that many a valuable life has been shortened by disregard of this fact1 or by the impossibility of obtaining such diet as nature imperatively required4 ,it may be urged1 that ,i speak of rare and extreme cases2 but indeed it is not so2 and the impression produced on me by the discomfort and the suffering which have fallen under my own observation1 has rendered me extremely anxious to aid in discovering an efficient remedy for them4 ,with this object always in view1 ,i have zealously endeavoured to ascertain1 and to place clearly before my readers1 the most rational and healthful methods of preparing those simple and essential kinds of nourishment which form the staple of our common daily fare2 and have occupied myself but little with the elegant superfluities or luxurious novelties with which ,i might perhaps more attractively1 though not more usefully1 have filled my pages4 ,should some persons feel disappointed at the plan ,i have pursued1 and regret the omissions which they may discover1 ,i would remind them1 that the fashionable dishes of the day may at all times be procured from an able confectioner2 and that part of the space which ,i might have allotted to them is1 ,i hope and believe1 better occupied by the subjects1 homely as they are1 to which ,i have devoted it--that is to say1 to ample directions for dressing vegetables1 and for making what cannot be purchased in this country--unadulterated bread of the most undeniably wholesome quality2 and those refreshing and finely-flavoured varieties of preserved fruit which are so conducive to health when judiciously taken1 and for which in illness there is often such a vain and feverish craving when no household stores of them can be commanded4#a ,footnote #a3 ,many of those made up for sale are absolutely dangerous eating2 those which are not adulterated are generally so oversweetened as to be distasteful to invalids4 ,merely to please the eye by such fanciful and elaborate decorations as distinguish many modern dinners1 or to flatter the palate by the production of new and enticing dainties1 ought not to be the principal aim1 at least1 of any work on cookery4 8,eat1--to live0 should be the motto1 by the spirit of which all writers upon it should be guided4 ,i must here obtrude a few words of personal interest to myself4 ,at the risk of appearing extremely egotistic1 ,i have appended 8,author's ,receipt0 and 8,author's ,original ,receipt0 to many of the contents of the following pages2 but ,i have done it solely in self-defence1 in consequence of the unscrupulous manner in which large portions of my volume have been appropriated by contemporary authors1 without the slightest acknowledgment of the source from which they have been derived4 ,i have allowed this unfairness1 and much beside1 to pass entirely unnoticed until now2 but ,i am suffering at present too severe a penalty for the over-exertion entailed on me by the plan which ,i adopted for the work1 longer to see with perfect composure strangers coolly taking the credit and the profits of my toil4 ,the subjoined passage from the preface of my first edition will explain in what this toil--so completely at variance with all the previous habits of my life1 and1 therefore1 so injurious in its effects--consisted2 and prevent the necessity of recapitulating here1 in another form1 what ,i have already stated in it4 8,amongst the large number of works on cookery which we have carefully perused1 we have never yet met with one which appeared to us either quite intended for1 or entirely suited to the need of the totally inexperienced6 none1 in fact1 which contained the first rudiments of the art1 with directions so practical1 clear1 and simple1 as to be at once understood1 and easily followed1 by those who had no previous knowledge of the subject4 ,this deficiency1 we have endeavoured in the present volume to supply1 by such thoroughly explicit and minute instructions as may1 we trust1 be readily comprehended and carried out by any class of learners2 our receipts1 moreover1 with a few trifling exceptions which are scrupulously specified1 are confined to such as may be perfectly depended on1 from having been proved beneath our own roof and under our own personal inspection4 ,we have trusted nothing to others2 but having desired sincerely to render the work one of general usefulness1 we have spared neither cost nor labour to make it so1 as the very plan on which it has been written must of itself1 we think1 evidently prove4 ,it contains some novel features1 calculated1 we hope1 not only to facilitate the labours of the kitchen1 but to be of service likewise to those by whom they are directed4 ,the principal of these is the summary appended to the receipts1 of the different ingredients which they contain1 with the exact proportion of each1 and the precise time required to dress the whole4 ,this shows at a glance what articles have to be prepared beforehand1 and the hour at which they must be ready2 while it affords great facility as well1 for an estimate of the expense attending them4 ,the additional space occupied by this closeness of detail has necessarily prevented the admission of so great a variety of receipts as the book might otherwise have comprised2 but a limited number1 thus completely explained1 may perhaps be more acceptable to the reader than a larger mass of materials vaguely given4 8,our directions for boning poultry1 game1 c41 are also1 we venture to say1 entirely new1 no author that is known to us having hitherto afforded the slightest information on the subject2 but while we have done our utmost to simplify and to render intelligible this1 and several other processes not generally well understood by ordinary cooks1 our first and best attention has been bestowed on those articles of food of which the consumption is the most general1 and which are therefore of the greatest consequence2 and on what are usually termed plain ,english dishes4 ,with these we have intermingled many others which we know to be excellent of their kind1 and which now so far belong to our national cookery1 as to be met with commonly at all refined modern tables40 ,since this extract was written1 a rather formidable array of works on the same subject has issued from the press1 part of them from the pens of celebrated professional gastronomers2 others are constantly appearing2 yet we make1 nevertheless1 but slight perceptible progress in this branch of our domestic economy4 ,still1 in our cottages1 as well as in homes of a better order1 goes on the 8waste0 of which ,i have already spoken4 ,it is not1 in fact1 cookery-books that we need half so much as cooks really trained to a knowledge of their duties1 and suited1 by their acquirements1 to families of different grades4 ,at present1 those who thoroughly understand their business are so few in number1 that they can always command wages which place their services beyond the reach of persons of moderate fortune4 ,why should not all classes participate in the benefit to be derived from nourishment calculated to sustain healthfully the powers of life8 ,and why should the ,english1 as a people1 remain more ignorant than their continental neighbours of so simple a matter as that of preparing it for themselves8 ,without adopting blindly foreign modes in anything merely because they are foreign1 surely we should be wise to learn from other nations1 who excel us in aught good or useful1 all that we can which may tend to remedy our own defects2 and the great frugality1 combined with almost universal culinary skill1 or culinary knowledge1 at the least--which prevails amongst many of them--is well worthy of our imitation4 ,suggestions of this nature are not1 however1 sufficient for our purpose4 ,something definite1 practical1 and easy of application1 must open the way to our general improvement4 ,efforts in the right direction are already being made1 ,i am told1 by the establishment of well-conducted schools for the early and efficient training of our female domestic servants4 ,these will materially assist our progress2 and if experienced cooks will put aside the jealous spirit of exclusiveness by which they are too often actuated1 and will impart freely the knowledge they have acquired1 they also may be infinitely helpful to us1 and have a claim upon our gratitude which ought to afford them purer satisfaction than the sole possession of any secrets--genuine or imaginary--connected with their craft4 ,the limits of a slight preface do not permit me to pursue this or any other topic at much length1 and ,i must in consequence leave my deficiencies to be supplied by some of the thoughtful1 and1 in every way1 more competent writers1 who1 happily for us1 abound at the present day2 and make here my adieu to the reader4 ,,eliza ,,acton ,london1 ,may1 #ahee4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,vocabulary ,,of ,,terms1 ,,principally ,,french1 ,,used ,,in ,,modern ,,cookery4 ------------------ ,aspic--fine transparent savoury jelly1 in which cold game1 poultry1 fish1 c41 are moulded2 and which serves also to decorate or garnish them4 ,assiette ,volante--a dish which is handed round the table without ever being placed upon it4 ,small fondus in paper cases are often served thus2 and various other preparations1 which require to be eaten very hot4 ,blanquette--a kind of fricassee4 ,boudin--a somewhat expensive dish1 formed of the ,french forcemeat called quenelles1 composed either of game1 poultry1 butcher's meat1 or fish1 moulded frequently into the form of a rouleau1 and gently poached until it is firm2 then sometimes broiled or fried1 but as frequently served plain4 ,bouilli--boiled beef1 or other meat1 beef being more generally understood by the term4 ,bouillie--a sort of hasty pudding4 ,bouillon--broth4 ,casserole--a stewpan2 and the name also given to a rice-crust1 when moulded in the form of a pie1 then baked and filled with a mince or pure of game1 or with a blanquette of white meat4 ,court ,bouillon--a preparation of vegetables and wine1 in which 7in expensive cookery7 fish is boiled4 ,consomm--very strong rich stock or gravy4 ,croustade--a case or crust formed of bread1 in which minces1 pures of game1 and other preparations are served4 ,crouton--a sippet of bread4 ,entre--a first-course side or corner dish4#b ,footnote #b3 ,neither the roasts nor the removes come under the denomination of entres2 and the same remark applies equally to the entremets in the second course4 ,large standing dishes at the sides1 such as raised pies1 timbales1 c41 served usually in grand repasts1 are called flanks2 but in an ordinary service all the intermediate dishes between the joints and roasts are distinguished by the name of entres1 or entremets4 ,entremets--a second-course side or corner dish4 ,espagnole1 or ,spanish sauce--a brown gravy of high savour4 ,farce--forcemeat4 ,fondu--a cheese souffl4 ,gteau--a cake1 also a pudding1 as ,gteau de ,riz2 sometimes also a kind of tart1 as ,gteau de ,pithiviers4 ,hors d'uvres--small dishes of anchovies1 sardines1 and other relishes of the kind1 served in the first course4 ,macaroncini--a small kind of maccaroni4 ,maigre--made without meat4 ,matelote--a rich and expensive stew of fish with wine1 generally of carp1 eels1 or trout4 ,meringue--a cake1 or icing1 made of sugar and whites of egg beaten to snow4 ,meringu--covered or iced with a meringue-mixture4 ,nouilles--a paste made of yolks of egg and flour1 then cut small like vermicelli4 ,pure--meat1 or vegetables1 reduced to a smooth pulp1 and then mixed with sufficient liquid to form a thick sauce or soup4 ,quenelles--,french forcemeat1 for which see page #afc4 ,rissoles--small fried pastry1 either sweet or savoury4 ,sparghetti--,naples vermicelli4 ,stock--the unthickened broth or gravy which forms the basis of soups and sauces4 ,tammy--a strainer of fine thin woollen canvas4 ,timbale--a sort of pie made in a mould4 ,tourte--a delicate kind of tart1 baked generally in a shallow tin pan1 or without any3 see page #egd4 ,vol-au-vent--for this1 see page #ceg4 ,zita--,naples maccaroni4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,table ,,of ,,contents4 ------------------ ,,chapter ,i4 ,,soups4 ,page ,ingredients which may all be #a used for making ,soup of various kinds ,a few directions to the ,cook #b ,the time required for boiling #d down ,soup or ,stock ,to thicken ,soups #d ,to fry ,bread to serve with #e ,soup ,sippets la ,reine #e ,to make ,nouilles 7an elegant #e substitute for ,vermicelli7 ,vegetable ,vermicelli #e 7,vegetables cut very fine for ,soups7 ,extract of ,beef1 or very #f strong ,beef ,gravy-,soup 7,baron ,liebig's receipt7 ,bouillon 7the common ,soup of #g ,france71 cheap and very wholesome ,clear pale ,gravy ,soup1 or #aj ,consomm ,another receipt for ,gravy ,soup #aj ,cheap clear ,gravy ,soup #aa ,glaze 7,note7 #aa ,vermicelli ,soup 7,potage au #ab ,vermicelle7 ,semoulina ,soup 7,soupe la #ab ,semoule7 ,macaroni ,soup #ac ,soup of ,soujee #ac ,potage aux ,nouilles1 or #ad ,taillerine ,soup ,sago ,soup #ad ,tapioca ,soup #ad ,rice ,soup #ad ,white ,rice ,soup #ae ,rice-,flour ,soup #ae ,stock for ,white-,soup #ae ,mutton ,stock for ,soups #af ,mademoiselle ,jenny ,lind's ,soup #af ,the ,lord ,mayor's ,soup #ag ,the ,lord ,mayor's ,soup #ah 7,author's receipt7 ,cocoa-,nut ,soup #ai ,chestnut ,soup #ai ,jerusalem ,artichoke1 or #ai ,palestine ,soup ,common ,carrot ,soup #bj ,a finer ,carrot ,soup #bj ,common ,turnip ,soup #ba ,a quickly made ,turnip ,soup #ba ,potato ,soup #ba ,apple ,soup #ba ,parsnep ,soup #bb ,another ,parsnep ,soup #bb ,westerfield ,white ,soup #bb ,a richer ,white ,soup #bc ,mock-,turtle ,soup #bc ,old-fashioned ,mock-,turtle #bf ,good ,calf's-,head ,soup 7not #bg expensive7 ,soupe des ,galles #bh ,potage la ,reine 7a #bi delicate ,white ,soup7 ,white ,oyster ,soup 7or ,oyster #cj ,soup la ,reine7 ,rabbit ,soup la ,reine #ca ,brown ,rabbit ,soup #ca ,superlative ,hare ,soup #cb ,a less expensive ,hare ,soup #cb ,economical ,turkey ,soup #cc ,pheasant ,soup #cc ,another ,pheasant ,soup #cd ,partridge ,soup #ce ,mullagatawny #ce ,to boil ,rice for ,mullagatawny1 #cf or for ,curries ,good ,vegetable ,mullagatawny #cg ,cucumber ,soup #ch ,spring ,soup1 and ,soup la #ch ,julienne ,an excellent ,green ,peas ,soup #ci ,green ,peas ,soup without meat #ci ,a cheap ,green ,peas ,soup #dj ,rich ,peas ,soup #da ,common ,peas ,soup #da ,peas ,soup without meat #db ,ox-tail ,soup #dc ,a cheap and good ,stew ,soup #dc ,soup in haste #dc ,veal or ,mutton ,broth #dd ,milk ,soup with ,vermicelli 7or #dd with ,rice1 ,semoulina1 ,sago1 c47 ,cheap ,rice ,soup #dd ,carrot ,soup ,maigre #de ,cheap ,fish ,soups #df ,buchanan ,carrot ,soup #df 7excellent7 ,observation #dg ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,,fish4 ,page ,to choose ,fish #dh ,to clean ,fish #ej ,to keep ,fish #ea ,to sweeten tainted ,fish #ea ,the mode of cooking best #ea adapted to different kinds of ,fish ,the best mode of boiling ,fish #ec ,brine for boiling ,fish #ed ,to render boiled ,fish firm #ed ,to know when ,fish is #ee sufficiently boiled1 or otherwise cooked ,to bake ,fish #ee ,fat for frying ,fish #ee ,to keep ,fish hot for table #ef ,to boil a ,turbot 7and when in #ef season7 ,turbot la ,crme #eg ,turbot au ,bchamel #eg ,mould of cold ,turbot with ,shrimp ,chatney 7refer to ,chapter ,,vi47 ,to boil a ,john ,dory 7and when #eh in season7 ,small ,john ,dories baked4 ,good #eh 7,author's receipt7 ,to boil a ,brill #eh ,to boil ,salmon 7and when in #ei season7 ,salmon la ,genevese #ej ,crimped ,salmon #fj ,salmon la ,st4 ,marcel #fj ,baked ,salmon over mashed #fi ,potatoes ,salmon ,pudding1 to be served #fj hot or cold 7a ,scotch receipt4 ,good7 ,to boil ,cod ,fish 7and when in #fa season7 ,slices of ,cod ,fish ,fried #fa ,stewed ,cod #fb ,stewed ,cod ,fish in brown sauce #fb ,to boil ,salt ,fish #fb ,salt ,fish la ,matre #fc d',htel ,to boil ,cods' ,sounds #fc ,to fry ,cods' ,sounds in batter #fc ,to fry ,soles 7and when in #fd season7 ,to boil ,soles #fd ,fillets of ,soles #fe ,soles au ,plat #ff ,baked ,soles 7a simple but #ff excellent receipt7 ,soles stewed in cream #fg ,to fry ,whitings 7and when in #fg season7 ,fillets of ,whitings #fh ,to boil ,whitings 7,french #fh receipt7 ,baked ,whitings la #fh ,franaise ,to boil ,mackerel 7and when in #fi season7 ,to bake ,mackerel #fi ,baked ,mackerel or ,whitings #gj 7,cinderella's receipt4 ,good7 ,fried ,mackerel 7,common ,french #gj receipt7 ,fillets of ,mackerel 7fried or #ga broiled7 ,boiled fillets of ,mackerel #ga ,mackerel broiled whole 7an #ga excellent receipt7 ,mackerel stewed with ,wine #gb 7very good7 ,fillets of ,mackerel stewed in #gb ,wine 7excellent7 ,to boil ,haddocks 7and when in #gc season7 ,baked ,haddocks #gc ,to fry ,haddocks #gc ,to dress ,finnan ,haddocks #gd ,to boil ,gurnards 7with #gd directions for dressing them in other ways7 ,fresh ,herrings4 ,farleigh #gd receipt 7and when in season7 ,to dress the ,sea ,bream #ge ,to boil ,plaice or ,flounders #ge 7and when in season7 ,to fry ,plaice or ,flounders #ge ,to roast1 bake1 or broil ,red #gf ,mullet 7and when in season7 ,to boil ,grey ,mullet #gf ,the ,gar ,fish 7to bake7 #gg ,the ,sand ,launce1 or ,sand ,eel #gg 7mode of dressing7 ,to fry ,smelts 7and when in #gg season7 ,baked ,smelts #gh ,to dress ,white ,bait4 ,greenwich #gh receipt 7and when in season7 ,water ,souchy 7,greenwich #gh receipt7 ,shad1 ,touraine fashion 7also #gi la mode de ,touraine7 ,stewed ,trout4 ,good common #hj receipt 7and when in season7 ,to boil ,pike 7and when in #hj season7 ,to bake ,pike 7common #ha receipt7 ,to bake ,pike 7superior #ha receipt7 ,to stew ,carp 7a common #hb country receipt7 ,to boil ,perch #hb ,to fry ,perch or ,tench #hc ,to fry ,eels 7and when in #hc season7 ,boiled ,eels 7,german receipt7 #hc ,to dress ,eels 7,cornish #hd receipt7 ,red ,herrings la ,dauphin #hd ,red ,herrings 7common ,english #hd mode7 ,anchovies fried in batter #hd ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,,dishes ,,of ,,shell-,,fish4 ,page ,oysters1 to cleanse and feed #he 7and when in season7 ,to scallop ,oysters #hf ,scalloped ,oysters la ,reine #hf ,to stew ,oysters #hf ,oyster ,sausages 7a most #hg excellent receipt7 ,to boil ,lobsters 7and when in #hh season7 ,cold dressed ,lobster and ,crab #hh ,lobsters fricasseed1 or au #hi ,bchamel 7,entre7 ,hot ,crab or ,lobster #hi ,potted ,lobsters #ij ,lobster cutlets 7a superior #ia ,entre7 ,lobster ,sausages #ia ,boudinettes of ,lobsters1 #ib ,prawns1 or ,shrimps4 ,entre 7,author's receipt7 ,to boil ,shrimps or ,prawns #ic ,to dish cold ,prawns #ic ,to shell ,shrimps and ,prawns #ic quickly and easily ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,,gravies4 ,page ,introductory remarks #id ,jewish smoked ,beef 7extremely #ie useful for giving flavour to ,soups and ,gravies7 ,to heighten the colour and #if flavour of ,gravies ,baron ,liebeg's ,beef ,gravy #if 7most excellent for ,hashes1 ,minces1 and other dishes made of cold meat7 ,shin of ,beef ,stock for ,gravies #ig ,rich pale ,veal ,gravy or #ig ,consomm ,rich deep coloured ,veal ,gravy #ih ,good ,beef or ,veal ,gravy #ii 7,english receipt7 ,a rich ,english brown ,gravy #ii ,plain ,gravy for ,venison #ajj ,a rich ,gravy for ,venison #ajj ,sweet ,sauce1 or ,gravy for #ajj ,venison ,espagnole1 ,spanish ,sauce 7a #ajj highly flavoured ,gravy7 ,espagnole with ,wine #ajj ,jus des ,rognons1 or ,kidney #aja ,gravy ,gravy in haste #aja ,cheap ,gravy for a ,roast ,fowl #aja ,another cheap ,gravy for a ,fowl #ajb ,gravy or ,sauce for a ,goose #ajb ,orange ,gravy for ,wild ,fowl #ajb ,meat ,jellies for ,pies and #ajc ,sauces ,a cheaper ,meat ,jelly #ajc ,glaze #ajd ,aspic1 or clear savoury #ajd ,jelly ,,chapter ,v4 ,,sauces4 ,page ,introductory remarks #aje ,to thicken ,sauces #aje ,french thickening1 or brown #ajf ,roux ,white ,roux1 or ,french #ajf thickening ,sauce ,tourne1 or pale #ajf thickened ,gravy ,bchamel #ajg ,bchamel ,maigre 7a cheap #ajh white ,sauce7 ,another common ,bchamel #ajh ,rich melted ,butter #ajh ,melted ,butter 7a good common #ajh receipt7 ,french melted ,butter #aji ,norfolk ,sauce1 or rich melted #aji ,butter without ,flour ,white melted ,butter #aji ,burnt or browned ,butter #aji ,clarified ,butter #aaj ,very good ,egg ,sauce #aaj ,sauce of ,turkeys' ,eggs ,sauce #aaj 7excellent7 ,common ,egg ,sauce #aaj ,egg ,sauce for ,calf's ,head #aaa ,english ,white ,sauce #aaa ,very common ,white ,sauce #aaa ,dutch ,sauce #aaa ,fricassee ,sauce #aab ,bread ,sauce #aab ,bread ,sauce with ,onion #aac ,common ,lobster ,sauce #aac ,good ,lobster ,sauce #aac ,crab ,sauce #aad ,good ,oyster ,sauce #aad ,common ,oyster ,sauce #aad ,shrimp ,sauce #aae ,anchovy ,sauce #aae ,cream ,sauce for ,fish #aad ,sharp ,matre d',htel ,sauce #aaf 7,english receipt7 ,french ,matre d',htel1 or #aaf ,steward's ,sauce ,matre d',htel ,sauce ,maigre1 #aag or without ,gravy ,the ,lady's ,sauce for ,fish #aag ,genevese ,sauce1 or ,sauce #aag ,genevoise ,sauce ,robert #aah ,sauce ,piquante #aah ,excellent ,horseradish ,sauce1 #aah to serve hot or cold with roast ,beef ,hot ,horseradish ,sauce #aai ,christopher ,north's own ,sauce #aai for many ,meats ,gooseberry ,sauce for ,mackerel #abj ,common ,sorrel ,sauce #abj ,asparagus ,sauce for ,lamb #abj ,cutlets ,caper ,sauce #aba ,brown ,caper ,sauce #aba ,caper ,sauce for ,fish #aba ,common ,cucumber ,sauce #aba ,another common ,sauce of #abb ,cucumbers ,white ,cucumber ,sauce #abb ,white ,mushroom ,sauce #abb ,another ,mushroom ,sauce #abc ,brown ,mushroom ,sauce #abc ,common ,tomata ,sauce #abc ,a finer ,tomata ,sauce #abd ,boiled ,apple ,sauce #abd ,baked ,apple ,sauce #abd ,brown ,apple ,sauce #abe ,white ,onion ,sauce #abe ,brown ,onion ,sauce #abe ,another brown ,onion ,sauce #abe ,soubise #abf ,soubise 7,french receipt7 #abf ,mild ,ragout of ,garlic1 or #abf l',ail la ,bordelaise ,mild ,eschalot ,sauce #abg ,a fine ,sauce1 or ,pure of #abg ,vegetable ,marrow ,excellent ,turnip1 or ,artichoke #abg ,sauce1 for boiled ,meat ,olive ,sauce #abh ,celery ,sauce #abh ,white ,chestnut ,sauce #abi ,brown ,chestnut ,sauce #abi ,parsley-green1 for colouring #abi ,sauces ,to crisp ,parsley #acj ,fried ,parsley #acj ,mild ,mustard #acj ,mustard1 the common way #acj ,french ,batter for frying #acj vegetables1 and for ,apple1 ,peach1 or ,orange fritters ,to prepare ,bread for frying #aca ,fish ,browned ,flour for thickening #aca ,soups and ,gravies ,fried ,bread-,crumbs #aca ,fried ,bread for ,garnishing #aca ,,sweet ,,pudding ,,sauces1 ,,chapter ,,xxii4 ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,,cold ,,sauces1 ,,salads1 ,,etc4 ,page ,superior ,mint ,sauce1 to serve #acb with ,lamb ,common ,mint ,sauce #acb ,strained ,mint ,sauce #acb ,fine ,horseradish ,sauce1 to #acc serve with cold roast1 stewed1 or boiled ,beef ,cold ,matre d',htel1 or #acc ,steward's ,sauce ,cold ,dutch or ,american ,sauce1 #acc for ,salads of dressed ,vegetables1 ,salt ,fish1 or hard ,eggs ,english ,sauce for ,salad1 cold #acd ,meat1 or cold ,fish ,the ,poet's receipt for ,salad #ace ,sauce ,mayonnaise1 for #ace ,salads1 cold ,meat1 ,poultry1 ,fish1 or ,vegetables ,red or green ,mayonnaise #acf ,sauce ,imperial ,mayonnaise1 an #acf elegant ,jellied ,sauce or ,salad dressing ,remoulade #acg ,oxford ,brawn ,sauce #acg ,forced ,eggs for garnishing #acg ,salads ,anchovy ,butter 7excellent7 #ach ,lobster ,butter #ach ,truffled ,butter1 and ,truffles #aci potted in ,butter for the ,breakfast or ,luncheon table ,english ,salads #adj ,french ,salad #adj ,french ,salad--,dressing #adj ,des ,cerneaux1 or ,walnut #ada ,salad ,suffolk ,salad #ada ,yorkshire ,ploughman's ,salad #ada ,an excellent ,salad of young #ada ,vegetables ,sorrel ,salad1 to serve with #adb ,lamb ,cutlets1 ,veal ,cutlets1 or roast ,lamb ,lobster ,salad #adb ,an excellent ,herring ,salad #adc 7,swedish receipt7 ,tartar ,sauce 7,sauce la #adc ,tartare7 ,shrimp ,chatney 7,mauritian #add receipt7 ,capsicum ,chatney #add ,,chapter ,,vii4 ,,store ,,sauces4 ,page ,observations #ade ,chetney ,sauce 7,bengal #adf receipt7 ,fine ,mushroom ,catsup #adf ,mushroom ,catsup 7another #adh receipt7 ,double ,mushroom ,catsup #adh ,compound1 or ,cook's ,catsup #adi ,walnut ,catsup #adi ,another good receipt for #aej ,walnut ,catsup ,lemon ,pickle1 or ,catsup #aej ,pontac ,catsup for ,fish #aej ,bottled ,tomatas1 or ,tomata #aea ,catsup ,epicurean ,sauce #aea ,tarragon ,vinegar #aea ,green ,mint ,vinegar #aeb ,cucumber ,vinegar #aeb ,celery ,vinegar #aeb4 ,eschalot1 or ,garlic ,vinegar #aeb4 ,eschalot ,wine #aec ,horseradish ,vinegar #aec ,cayenne ,vinegar #aec ,lemon ,brandy for flavouring #aec ,sweet ,dishes ,dried ,mushrooms #aec ,mushroom ,powder #aed ,potato ,flour1 or ,arrow ,root #aed 7,fecule de ,pommes de ,terre7 ,to make ,flour of ,rice #aed ,powder of ,savoury ,herbs #aed ,tartar ,mustard #aed ,another ,tartar ,mustard #aed ,,chapter ,,viii4 ,,forcemeats4 ,page ,general remarks on ,forcemeats #aef ,good common ,forcemeat for #aeg ,veal1 ,turkeys1 c41 ,no4 #a ,another good common ,forcemeat1 #aeg ,no4 #b ,superior ,suet ,forcemeat1 ,no4 #c #aeh ,common ,suet ,forcemeat1 ,no4 #d #aeh ,oyster ,forcemeat1 ,no4 #e #aei ,finer ,oyster ,forcemeat1 ,no4 #f #aei ,mushroom ,forcemeat1 ,no4 #g #aei ,forcemeat for ,hare1 ,no4 #h #afj ,onion and ,sage stuffing for #afj ,geese1 ,ducks1 c41 ,no4 #i ,mr4 ,cooke's ,forcemeat for #afa ,geese or ,ducks1 ,no4 #aj ,forcemeat ,balls for ,mock #afa ,turtle ,soups1 ,no4 #aa ,egg ,balls1 ,no4 #ab #afb ,brain ,cakes1 ,no4 #ac #afb ,another receipt for ,brain #afb ,cakes1 ,no4 #ad ,chestnut ,forcemeat1 ,no4 #ae #afb ,an excellent ,french ,forcemeat1 #afc ,no4 #af ,french ,forcemeat1 called #afc ,quenelles1 ,no4 #ag ,forcemeat for raised and other #afd cold ,pies1 ,no4 #ah ,panada1 ,no4 #ai #afe ,,chapter ,,ix4 ,,boiling1 ,,roasting1 ,,etc4 ,page ,to boil ,meat #afg ,pole #afi ,a ,blanc #afi ,roasting #afi ,steaming #agb ,stewing #agc ,broiling #age ,frying #agf ,baking1 or ,oven ,cookery #agh ,braising #ahj ,larding #aha ,boning #ahb ,to blanch ,meat or ,vegetables #ahb ,glazing #ahb ,toasting #ahc ,browning with ,salamander #ahc ,,chapter ,x4 ,,beef4 ,page ,to choose ,beef #ahd ,when in season #ahd ,to roast ,sirloin or ,ribs of #ahd ,beef ,roast ,rump of ,beef #ahf ,to roast part of a ,round of #ahf ,beef ,to roast a ,fillet of ,beef #ahg ,roast ,beef ,steak #ahg ,to broil ,beef ,steaks #ahg ,beef ,steaks la ,franaise #ahh 7,entre7 ,beef ,steaks la ,franaise #ahi 7another receipt7 7,entre7 ,stewed ,beef ,steak 7,entre7 #ahi ,fried ,beef ,steaks #ahi ,beef ,stewed in its own ,gravy #ahi 7good and wholesome7 ,beef or ,mutton ,cake 7very #aij good7 7,entre7 ,german ,stew #aij ,welsh ,stew #aia ,a good ,english ,stew #aia ,to stew ,shin of ,beef #aib ,french ,beef la ,mode #aib 7common receipt7 ,stewed ,sirloin of ,beef #aic ,to stew a ,rump of ,beef #aid ,beef ,palates 7,entre7 #aig ,beef ,palates 7,neapolitan #aie mode7 ,stewed ,ox-tails 7,entre7 #aie ,broiled ,ox-tail 7good7 #aie 7,entre7 ,to salt and pickle ,beef in #aif various ways ,to salt and boil a round of #aif ,beef ,hamburgh ,pickle for ,beef1 #aig ,hams1 and ,tongues ,another ,pickle for ,tongues1 #aig ,beef1 and ,hams ,dutch1 or ,hung ,beef #aig ,collared ,beef #aih ,collared ,beef 7another #aih receipt7 ,a common receipt for ,salting #aih ,beef ,spiced ,round of ,beef 7very #aii highly flavoured7 ,spiced ,beef 7good and #aii wholesome7 ,a miniature ,round of ,beef #aii ,beef ,roll1 or ,canellon de #bja ,buf 7,entre7 ,minced ,collops au ,naturel #bja 7,entre7 ,savoury minced ,collops #bja 7,entre7 ,a richer variety of minced #bjb ,collops 7,entre7 ,scotch minced ,collops #bjb ,beef ,tongues #bjb ,beef ,tongues 7a ,suffolk #bjc receipt7 ,to dress ,beef ,tongues #bjc ,bordyke receipt for stewing a #bjc ,tongue ,to roast a ,beef ,heart #bjd ,beef ,kidney #bjd ,beef ,kidney1 a plainer way #bje ,an excellent hash of cold ,beef #bje or ,mutton ,a common hash of cold ,beef or #bje ,mutton ,breslaw of ,beef 7good7 #bjf ,norman ,hash #bjf ,french receipt for hashed #bjf ,bouilli ,baked minced ,beef #bjg ,saunders #bjg ,to boil ,marrow-bones #bjg ,baked ,marrow-bones #bjh ,clarified ,marrow for keeping #bjh ,ox-cheek stuffed and baked #bjh ,,chapter ,,xi4 ,,veal4 ,page ,different joints of ,veal #bji ,when in season #bji ,to take the hair from a ,calf's #baj ,head with the skin on ,boiled ,calf's ,head #baj ,calf's ,head1 the ,warder's way #baa 7an excellent receipt7 ,prepared ,calf's ,head 7the #baa ,cook's receipt7 ,burlington ,whimsey #bab ,cutlets of ,calf's ,head #bac 7,entre7 ,hashed ,calf's ,head 7,entre7 #bac ,cheap hash of ,calf's ,head #bac ,to dress cold ,calf's ,head1 or #bad ,veal1 la matre d'htel 7,english receipt74 7,entre7 ,calf's ,head ,brawn 7,author's #bae receipt7 ,to roast a ,fillet of ,veal #baf ,fillet of ,veal1 au ,bchamel1 #baf with ,oysters ,boiled ,fillet of ,veal #bag ,roast ,loin of ,veal #bag ,boiled ,loin of ,veal #bah ,stewed ,loin of ,veal #bah ,boiled ,breast of ,veal #bah ,to roast a ,breast of ,veal #bai ,to bone a ,shoulder of ,veal1 #bai ,mutton1 or ,lamb ,stewed ,shoulder of ,veal #bai 7,english receipt7 ,roast ,neck of ,veal #bbj ,neck of ,veal la ,crme1 or #bbj au ,bchamel ,veal ,goose 7,city of ,london #bbj receipt7 ,knuckle of ,veal1 en ragout #bba ,boiled ,knuckle of ,veal #bba ,knuckle of ,veal1 with ,rice or #bba ,green ,peas ,small ,pain de ,veau1 or ,veal #bbb ,cake 7,entre7 ,bordyke ,veal ,cake 7good47 #bbb 7,entre7 ,fricandeau of ,veal 7,entre7 #bbc ,spring stew of ,veal 7,entre7 #bbd ,norman ,harrico #bbd ,plain ,veal ,cutlets 7,entre7 #bbe ,veal ,cutlets l',indienne1 #bbe or ,indian fashion 7,entre7 ,veal ,cutlets1 or ,collops1 #bbf la ,franaise 7,entre7 ,scotch ,collops 7,entre7 #bbf ,veal ,cutlets1 la mode de #bbf ,londres1 or ,london fashion 7,entre7 ,sweetbreads1 simply stewed1 #bbg fricasseed1 or glazed 7,entres7 ,sweetbread ,cutlets 7,entre7 #bbg ,stewed ,calf's ,feet 7cheap and #bbh good7 ,calf's ,liver stoved or stewed #bbh ,to roast ,calf's ,liver #bbi ,blanquette of ,veal1 or ,lamb1 #bbi with ,mushrooms 7,entre7 ,minced ,veal 7,entre7 #bcj ,minced ,veal with ,oysters #bca 7,entre7 ,veal ,sydney 7good7 #bca ,fricasseed ,veal 7,entre7 #bca ,small ,entres of #bcb ,sweetbreads1 ,calf's ,brains and ,ears1 c4 ,,chapter ,,xii4 ,,mutton ,,and ,,lamb4 ,page ,different joints of ,mutton #bcc ,when in season #bcc ,to choose ,mutton #bcc ,to roast a ,haunch of ,mutton #bcd ,roast ,saddle of ,mutton #bce ,to roast a ,leg of ,mutton #bce ,superior receipt for roast ,leg #bce of ,mutton ,braised ,leg of ,mutton #bcf ,leg of ,mutton boned and forced #bcf ,a boiled ,leg of ,mutton1 with #bcg ,tongue and ,turnips 7an excellent receipt7 ,roast or stewed ,fillet of #bch ,mutton ,to roast a ,loin of ,mutton #bch ,to dress a ,loin of ,mutton like #bci ,venison ,roast ,neck of ,mutton #bci ,to ,roast a ,shoulder of ,mutton #bci ,the ,cavalier's broil #bdj ,forced ,shoulder of ,mutton #bdj ,mutton ,cutlets stewed in their #bdj own ,gravy ,to broil ,mutton ,cutlets #bda 7,entre7 ,china ,chilo #bda ,a good family stew of ,mutton #bdb ,an ,irish stew #bdb ,a ,baked ,irish stew #bdc ,cutlets of cold ,mutton #bdc ,mutton ,kidneys la #bdc ,franaise 7,entre7 ,broiled ,mutton ,kidneys #bdd ,oxford receipt for ,mutton #bdd ,kidneys 7,breakfast dish or ,entre7 ,to roast a ,fore ,quarter of #bdd ,lamb ,saddle of ,lamb #bde ,roast ,loin of ,lamb #bde ,stewed ,leg of ,lamb1 with white #bde ,sauce 7,entre7 ,loin of ,lamb stewed in butter #bdf 7,entre7 ,lamb or ,mutton ,cutlets1 with #bdf ,soubise ,sauce 7,entre7 ,lamb ,cutlets in their own #bdf ,gravy ,cutlets of cold ,lamb #bdf ,,chapter ,,xiii4 ,,pork4 ,page ,different joints of ,pork #bdg ,when in season #bdg ,to choose ,pork #bdg ,to melt ,lard #bdh ,to preserve unmelted ,lard for #bdh many months ,to roast a ,sucking ,pig #bdi ,baked ,pig #bej ,pig la ,tartare 7,entre7 #bej ,sucking ,pig1 en blanquette #bej 7,entre7 ,to roast ,pork #bea ,to roast a ,saddle of ,pork #bea ,to broil or fry ,pork ,cutlets #bea ,cobbett's receipt for curing #beb ,bacon ,a genuine ,yorkshire receipt #bec for curing ,hams and ,bacon ,kentish mode of cutting up and #bed curing a ,pig ,french ,bacon for larding #bed ,to pickle ,cheeks of ,bacon and #beg ,hams ,monsieur ,ude's receipt for #bee ,hams superior to ,westphalia ,super-excellent ,bacon #bef ,hams 7,bordyke receipt7 #bef ,to boil a ,ham #bef ,to garnish and ornament ,hams #beg in various ways ,french receipt for boiling a #beh ,ham ,to bake a ,ham #beh ,to boil ,bacon #bei ,bacon broiled or fried #bei ,dressed ,rashers of ,bacon #bei ,tonbridge ,brawn #bfj ,italian ,pork ,cheese #bfj ,sausage-meat ,cake1 or ,pain de #bfa ,porc ,frais ,sausages #bfa ,kentish ,sausage-meat #bfa ,excellent ,sausages #bfb ,pounded ,sausage-meat 7very #bfb good7 ,boiled ,sausages 7,entre7 #bfb ,sausages and ,chestnuts 7an #bfb excellent dish47 7,entre7 ,truffled ,sausages1 or #bfc ,saucisses aux truffles ,,chapter ,,xiv4 ,,poultry4 ,page ,to choose ,poultry #bfd ,to bone a ,fowl or ,turkey #bfe without opening it ,another mode of boning a ,fowl #bfe or ,turkey ,to bone ,fowls for ,fricassees1 #bff ,curries1 and ,pies ,to roast a ,turkey #bfg ,to boil a ,turkey ,poult #bfg ,turkey boned and forced 7an #bfh excellent dish7 ,turkey la ,flamande1 or #bgj dinde ,poudre ,to roast a ,turkey #bgj ,to roast a ,goose 7and when in #bga season7 ,to roast a green ,goose #bga ,to roast a ,fowl #bgb ,roast ,fowl 7a ,french #bgb receipt7 ,to roast a ,guinea ,fowl #bgb ,fowl la ,carlsfors #bgc 7,entre7 ,boiled ,fowls #bgc ,to broil a ,chicken or ,fowl #bgd ,fricasseed ,fowls or ,chickens #bgd 7,entre7 ,chicken ,cutlets 7,entre7 #bge ,cutlets of ,fowls1 ,partridges1 #bge or ,pigeons 7,french receipt7 7,entre7 ,fried ,chicken1 la ,malabar #bge 7,entre7 ,hashed ,fowl 7,entre7 #bgf ,french1 and other receipts for #bgf minced ,fowl 7,entre7 ,minced ,fowl 7,french receipt7 #bge 7,entre7 ,fritot or ,friteau of cold #bgg ,fowls 7,entre7 ,scallops of ,fowls au #bgg ,bchamel 7,entre7 ,grillade of cold ,fowls #bgg ,fowls la ,mayonnaise #bgh ,to roast ,ducks 7and when in #bgh season7 ,stewed ,duck 7,entre7 #bgh ,to roast ,pigeons 7and when in #bgi season7 ,boiled ,pigeons #bgi ,,chapter ,,xv4 ,,game4 ,page ,to choose ,game #bha ,to roast a ,haunch of ,venison #bhb ,to stew a ,shoulder of ,venison #bhc ,to ,hash ,venison #bhd ,to roast a ,hare #bhd ,roast ,hare 7superior #bhe receipt7 ,stewed ,hare #bhf ,to roast a ,rabbit #bhf ,to boil ,rabbits #bhf ,fried ,rabbit #bhg ,to roast a ,pheasant #bhg ,boudin of ,pheasant1 la #bhh ,richelieu 7,entre7 ,to roast ,partridges #bhh ,boiled ,partridges #bhi ,partridges with ,mushrooms #bhi ,broiled ,partridge 7breakfast #bij dish7 ,broiled ,partridge 7,french #bij receipt7 ,the ,french1 or ,red-legged #bij ,partridge ,to roast the ,landrail or #bia ,corn-,crake ,to roast ,black ,cock and ,gray #bia ,hen 7and when in season7 ,to roast ,grouse #bib ,a salmi of ,moorfowl1 #bib ,pheasants1 or ,partridges 7,entre7 ,french salmi1 or hash of #bib ,game 7,entre7 ,to roast ,woodcocks or ,snipes #bic 7and their season7 ,to roast the ,pintail or #bid ,sea-,pheasant1 with the season of all ,wild ,fowl ,to roast ,wild ,ducks #bid ,a salmi or hash of ,wild ,fowl #bid ,,chapter ,,xvi4 ,,curries1 ,,potted ,,meats1 ,,etc4 ,page ,remarks on ,curries #bif ,mr4 ,arnott's ,currie ,powder #big ,mr4 ,arnott's ,currie #big ,a ,bengal ,currie #bih ,a dry ,currie #bih ,a common ,indian ,currie #bii ,selim's ,curries 7,captain #cjj ,white's7 ,curried ,macaroni #cjj ,curried ,eggs #cja ,curried ,sweetbreads #cja ,curried ,oysters #cjb ,curried ,gravy #cjb ,potted ,meats #cjc ,potted ,ham 7an excellent #cjd receipt7 ,potted ,chicken1 ,partridge1 or #cje ,pheasant ,potted ,ox ,tongue #cje ,potted ,anchovies #cjf ,lobster ,butter 7,chapter ,,vi47 ,potted ,shrimps or ,prawns #cjf 7delicious7 ,potted ,mushrooms 7see ,chapter ,,xvii47 ,moulded ,potted ,meat or ,fish1 #cjf for the second course ,potted ,hare #cjg ,,chapter ,,xvii4 ,,vegetables4 ,page ,observations on ,vegetables #cjh ,to clear ,vegetables from #cji ,insects ,to boil ,vegetables green #cji ,potatoes1--remarks on their #cji properties and importance ,to boil ,potatoes as in ,ireland #caj ,to boil ,potatoes 7the #caa ,lancashire way7 ,to boil new ,potatoes #caa ,new ,potatoes in ,butter #cab ,to boil ,potatoes 7,captain #cab ,kater's receipt7 ,to roast or bake ,potatoes #cab ,scooped ,potatoes 7,entremets7 #cab ,crisped ,potatoes1 or #cac ,potato-,ribbons 7,entremets71 or to serve with ,cheese ,fried ,potatoes 7,entremets7 #cac 7plainer receipt7 ,mashed ,potatoes #cac ,english ,potato-,balls1 or #cad ,croquettes ,potato ,boulettes #cad 7,entremets7 7good7 ,potato ,rissoles 7,french7 #cae ,potatoes la ,matre d',htel #cae ,potatoes la ,crme #cae ,kohl-,cannon1 or ,kale-,cannon #cae 7an ,irish receipt7 ,to boil ,sea-,kale #caf ,sea-,kale stewed in ,gravy #caf 7,entremets7 ,spinach 7,entremets7 7,french #caf receipt7 ,spinach l',anglaise1 or #cag ,english fashion 7,entremets7 ,spinach 7common ,english #cag mode7 ,another common ,english receipt #cag for ,spinach ,to dress ,dandelions like #cah ,spinach1 or as a ,salad 7very wholesome7 ,boiled ,turnip ,radishes #cah ,boiled ,leeks #cah ,stewed ,lettuces #cai ,to boil ,asparagus #cai ,asparagus points dressed like #cai ,peas 7,entremets7 ,to boil ,green ,peas #cbj ,green ,peas la ,franaise1 #cbj or ,french fashion 7,entremets7 ,green ,peas with ,cream #cba 7,entremets7 ,to boil ,french ,beans #cba ,french ,beans la ,franaise #cba 7,entremets7 ,an excellent receipt for #cbb ,french ,beans la ,franaise ,to boil ,windsor ,beans #cbb ,dressed ,cucumbers #cbb ,mandrang1 or ,mandram 7,west #cbc ,indian receipt7 ,another receipt for ,mandram #cbc ,dressed ,cucumbers 7,author's #cbc receipt7 ,stewed ,cucumbers 7,english #cbc mode7 ,cucumbers la ,poulette #cbd ,cucumbers la ,crme #cbd ,fried ,cucumbers1 to serve in #cbd common hashes and minces ,melon #cbe ,to boil ,cauliflowers #cbe ,cauliflowers 7,french #cbe receipt7 ,cauliflowers with ,parmesan #cbe ,cheese ,cauliflowers la ,franaise #cbf ,brocoli #cbf ,to boil ,artichokes #cbf ,artichokes en ,salade 7see ,chapter ,,vi47 ,vegetable ,marrow #cbg ,roast ,tomatas 7to serve with #cbg roast ,mutton7 ,stewed ,tomatas #cbg ,forced ,tomatas 7,english #cbg receipt7 ,forced ,tomatas 7,french #cbh receipt7 ,pure of ,tomatas #cbh ,to boil ,green ,indian ,corn #cbi ,mushrooms au ,beurre #cbi ,potted ,mushrooms #ccj ,mushroom-,toast1 or ,croule aux #ccj ,champignons 7excellent7 ,truffles1 and their uses #cca ,truffles la ,serviette #cca ,truffles l',italienne #cca ,to prepare ,truffles for use #ccb ,to boil ,sprouts1 ,cabbages1 #ccb ,savoys1 ,lettuces1 or ,endive ,stewed ,cabbage #ccc ,to boil ,turnips #ccc ,to mash ,turnips #ccc ,turnips in white ,sauce #ccd 7,entremets7 ,turnips stewed in ,butter #ccd 7good7 ,turnips in ,gravy #cce ,to boil ,carrots #cce ,carrots 7the ,windsor #cce receipt7 7,entremets7 ,sweet ,carrots 7,entremets7 #ccf ,mashed 7or ,buttered7 ,carrots #ccf 7a ,dutch receipt7 ,carrots au ,beurre1 or ,buttered #ccf ,carrots 7,french receipt7 ,carrots in their own ,juice 7a #ccg simple but excellent receipt7 ,to boil ,parsneps #ccg ,fried ,parsneps #ccg ,jerusalem ,artichokes #ccg ,to fry ,jerusalem ,artichokes #cch 7,entremets7 ,jerusalem ,artichokes la #cch ,reine ,mashed ,jerusalem ,artichokes #cch ,haricots ,blancs #cch ,to boil ,beet-,root #cci ,to bake ,beet-,root #cci ,stewed ,beet-,root #cdj ,to stew ,red ,cabbage 7,flemish #cdj receipt7 ,brussels ,sprouts #cdj ,salsify #cda ,fried ,salsify 7,entremets7 #cda ,boiled ,celery #cda ,stewed ,celery #cda ,stewed ,onions #cdb ,stewed ,chestnuts #cdb ,,chapter ,,xviii4 ,,pastry4 ,page ,introductory remarks #cdd ,to glaze or ice ,pastry #cde ,feuilletage1 or fine ,french #cde ,puff ,paste ,very good light ,paste #cdf ,english ,puff ,paste #cdf ,cream ,crust 7very good7 #cdg 7,author's receipt7 ,pte ,brise 7or ,french ,crust #cdg for hot or cold ,meat ,pies7 ,flead ,crust #cdg ,common ,suet-,crust for ,pies #cdh ,very superior ,suet-,crust #cdh ,very rich short ,crust for #cdi ,tarts ,excellent short ,crust for #cdi ,sweet ,pastry ,bricche ,paste #cdi ,modern ,potato ,pasty1 an #cej excellent family dish ,casserole of ,rice #cea ,a good common ,english ,game ,pie #ceb ,modern ,chicken ,pie #cec ,a common ,chicken ,pie #cec ,pigeon ,pie #ced ,beef-steak ,pie #ced ,common ,mutton ,pie #cee ,a good ,mutton ,pie #cee ,raised ,pies #cef ,a ,vol-au-,vent 7,entre7 #ceg ,a ,vol-au-,vent of ,fruit #ceh 7,entremets7 ,a ,vol-au-,vent la ,crme #ceh 7,entremets7 ,oyster ,patties 7,entre7 #cei ,common ,lobster ,patties #cei ,superlative ,lobster ,patties #cei 7,author's receipt7 ,good ,chicken ,patties #cei 7,entre7 ,patties la ,pontife1 a #cfj fast-day or maigre dish 7,entre7 ,excellent ,meat ,rolls #cfj ,small ,vols-au-,vents1 or #cfa ,patty-cases ,another receipt for ,tartlets #cfa ,a ,sefton1 or ,veal ,custard #cfb ,apple ,cake1 or ,german ,tart #cfb ,tourte ,meringue1 or ,tart #cfc with royal icing ,a good ,apple ,tart #cfc ,tart of very young green #cfd ,apples 7good7 ,barberry ,tart #cfd ,the ,lady's ,tourte1 and #cfd ,christmas ,tourte la ,chtelaine ,genoises la ,reine1 or her #cff ,majesty's ,pastry ,almond ,paste #cfg ,tartlets of ,almond ,paste #cfg ,fairy ,fancies 7,fantaisies des #cfh ,fes7 ,mincemeat 7,author's receipt7 #cfh ,superlative ,mincemeat #cfi ,mince ,pies 7,entremets7 #cfi ,mince ,pies ,royal 7,entremets7 #cgj ,the ,monitor's ,tart1 or ,tourte #cgj la ,judd ,pudding ,pies 7,entremets7 #cga ,pudding ,pies 7a commoner #cga kind7 ,cocoa-,nut cheese-cakes #cga 7,entremets7 7,jamaica receipt7 ,common ,lemon ,tartlets #cgb ,madame ,werner's ,rosenvik #cgb cheese-cakes ,apfel ,krapfen 7,german #cgc receipt7 ,crme ,ptissire1 or ,pastry #cgc ,cream ,small ,vols-au-,vent1 la #cgd ,parisienne 7,entremets7 ,pastry ,sandwiches #cgd ,lemon ,sandwiches #cgd ,fanchonnettes 7,entremets7 #cgd ,jelly-,tartlets1 or ,custards #cge ,strawberry ,tartlets 7good7 #cge ,raspberry ,puffs #cge ,creamed ,tartlets #cge ,ramakins l',ude1 or #cge ,sefton-,fancies ,,chapter ,,xix4 ,,souffl,s1 ,,omlets1 ,,etc4 ,page ,souffls #cgg ,louise ,franks' ,citron #cgh ,souffl ,a ,fondu1 or ,cheese ,souffle #cgi ,observations on ,omlets1 #chj ,fritters1 c4 ,a common ,omlet #chj ,an ,omlette ,souffl 7second #cha course1 remove of roast7 ,plain ,common ,fritters #cha ,pancakes #chb ,fritters of ,cake and ,pudding #chb ,mincemeat ,fritters #chc ,venetian ,fritters 7very #chc good7 ,rhubarb ,fritters #chc ,apple1 ,peach1 ,apricot1 or #chd ,orange ,fritters ,brioche ,fritters #chd ,potato ,fritters 7,entremets7 #chd ,lemon ,fritters 7,entremets7 #chd ,cannelons 7,entremets7 #che ,cannelons of ,brioche paste #che 7,entremets7 ,croquettes of ,rice #che 7,entremets7 ,finer ,croquettes of ,rice #chf 7,entremets7 ,savoury ,croquettes of ,rice #chf 7,entre7 ,rissoles 7,entre7 #chg ,very savoury ,rissoles #chg 7,entre7 ,small fried ,bread ,patties1 or #chg ,croustades of various kinds ,dresden ,patties1 or #chg ,croustades 7very delicate7 ,to prepare ,beef ,marrow for #chh frying ,croustades1 ,savoury ,toasts1 c4 ,small ,croustades1 or ,bread #chh ,patties1 dressed in ,marrow 7,author's receipt7 ,small ,croustades1 la ,bonne #chi ,maman 7the ,grandmamma's ,patties7 ,curried ,toasts with ,anchovies #chi ,to fillet ,anchovies #chi ,savoury ,toasts #cij ,to choose ,macaroni1 and other #cij ,italian ,pastes ,to boil ,macaroni #cia ,ribbon ,macaroni #cia ,dressed ,macaroni #cib ,macaroni la ,reine #cic ,,semoulina ,,and ,,polenta #cic l',italienne 7,good7 7,to serve instead of ,macaroni7 ,,chapter ,,xx4 ,,boiled ,,puddings4 ,page ,general ,directions #cie ,to clean ,currants for ,puddings #cig or ,cakes ,to steam a ,pudding in a common #cig stewpan or saucepan ,to mix ,batter for ,puddings #cig ,suet ,crust for ,meat or ,fruit #cih ,pudding ,butter ,crust for ,puddings #cih ,savoury ,puddings #cii ,beef-steak1 or ,john ,bull's #cii ,pudding ,small ,beef-steak ,pudding #djj ,ruth ,pinch's ,beef-steak #dja ,pudding ,mutton ,pudding #dja ,partridge ,pudding 7very #dja good7 ,a ,peas ,pudding 7to serve with #dja ,boiled ,pork7 ,wine-sauce for ,sweet ,puddings #djb ,common ,wine-sauce #djb ,punch-sauce for ,sweet ,puddings #djb ,clear arrow-root-sauce 7with #djc receipt for ,welcome ,guest's ,pudding7 ,a ,german ,custard ,pudding-sauce #djc ,a delicious ,german #djc ,pudding-sauce ,red ,currant or ,raspberry-sauce #djd 7good7 ,common ,raspberry-sauce #djd ,superior ,fruit ,sauces for #djd ,sweet ,puddings ,pine-apple ,pudding-sauce #dje ,a very fine ,pine-apple ,sauce #dje or ,syrup for ,puddings1 or other ,sweet ,dishes ,german ,cherry-sauce #djf ,common ,batter ,pudding #djf ,another ,batter ,pudding #djf ,black-cap ,pudding #djg ,batter ,fruit ,pudding #djg ,kentish ,suet ,pudding #djg ,another ,suet ,pudding #djh ,apple1 ,currant1 ,cherry1 or #djh other ,fresh ,fruit ,pudding ,a common ,apple ,pudding #dji ,herodotus' ,pudding 7,a genuine #dji classical receipt7 ,the ,publisher's ,pudding #daj ,her ,majesty's ,pudding #daj ,common ,custard ,pudding #daa ,prince ,albert's ,pudding #daa ,german ,pudding and ,sauce #dab 7very good7 ,the ,welcome ,guest's own #dab ,pudding 7light and wholesome4 ,author's receipt7 ,sir ,edwin ,landseer's ,pudding #dab ,a ,cabinet ,pudding #dac ,a very fine ,cabinet ,pudding #dad ,snowdon ,pudding 7a genuine #dad receipt7 ,very good ,raisin ,puddings #dae ,the ,elegant ,economist's #dae ,pudding ,pudding la ,scoones #daf ,ingoldsby ,christmas ,puddings #daf ,small and very light ,plum #daf ,pudding ,vegetable ,plum ,pudding 7cheap #dag and good7 ,the ,author's ,christmas ,pudding #dag ,a ,kentish ,well-,pudding #dag ,rolled ,pudding #dah ,a ,bread ,pudding #dah ,a ,brown ,bread ,pudding #dai ,a good boiled ,rice ,pudding #dai ,cheap ,rice ,pudding #dbj ,rice and ,gooseberry ,pudding #dbj ,fashionable ,apple ,dumplings #dbj ,orange ,snow-balls #dbj ,apple ,snow-balls #dba ,light ,currant ,dumplings #dba ,lemon ,dumplings 7light and #dba good7 ,suffolk1 or hard ,dumplings #dba ,norfolk ,dumplings #dba ,sweet boiled ,patties 7good7 #dbb ,boiled ,rice1 to be served with #dbb stewed ,fruits1 ,preserves1 or ,raspberry ,vinegar ,,chapter ,,xxi4 ,,baked ,,puddings4 ,page ,introductory ,remarks #dbc ,a baked ,plum ,pudding en #dbd ,moule1 or ,moulded ,the ,printer's ,pudding #dbd ,almond ,pudding #dbe ,the ,young ,wife's ,pudding #dbe 7,author's receipt7 ,the ,good ,daughter's ,mincemeat #dbf ,pudding 7,author's receipt7 ,mrs4 ,howitt's ,pudding #dbf 7,author's receipt7 ,an excellent ,lemon ,pudding #dbf ,lemon ,suet ,pudding #dbg ,bakewell ,pudding #dbg ,ratifia ,pudding #dbg ,the elegant ,economist's #dbh ,pudding ,rich ,bread and ,butter ,pudding #dbh ,a common ,bread and ,butter #dbi ,pudding ,a good baked ,bread ,pudding #dbi ,another baked ,bread ,pudding #dcj ,a good ,semoulina or ,soujee #dcj ,pudding ,french ,semoulina ,pudding1 or #dcj ,gteau de ,semoule ,saxe-,gotha ,pudding1 or #dca ,tourte ,baden ,baden ,puddings #dca ,sutherland1 or ,castle ,puddings #dcb ,madeleine ,puddings 7to be #dcb served cold7 ,a good ,french ,rice ,pudding1 or #dcc ,gteau de ,riz ,a common ,rice ,pudding #dcc ,quite cheap ,rice ,pudding #dcd ,richer ,rice ,pudding #dcd ,rich ,pudding ,meringu #dcd ,good ground ,rice ,pudding #dce ,common ground ,rice ,pudding #dce ,green ,gooseberry ,pudding #dce ,potato ,pudding #dcf ,a ,richer ,potato ,pudding #dcf ,a good ,sponge-cake ,pudding #dcf ,cake and ,custard1 and various #dcg other inexpensive ,puddings ,baked ,apple ,pudding1 or #dcg ,custard ,dutch ,custard1 or ,baked #dch ,raspberry ,pudding ,gabrielle's ,pudding1 or sweet #dch ,casserole of ,rice ,vermicelli ,pudding1 with #dci apples or without1 and ,puddings of ,soujee and ,semola ,rice la ,vathek1 or ,rice #ddj ,pudding la ,vathek 7extremely good7 ,good ,yorkshire ,pudding #ddj ,common ,yorkshire ,pudding #dda ,normandy ,pudding 7good7 #dda ,common baked ,raisin ,pudding #dda ,a richer baked ,raisin ,pudding #ddb ,the ,poor ,author's ,pudding #ddb ,pudding la ,paysanne #ddb 7cheap and good7 ,the ,curate's ,pudding #ddb ,a light baked ,batter ,pudding #ddc ,,chapter ,,xxii4 ,,eggs ,,and ,,milk4 ,page ,to preserve ,eggs fresh for #ddd many weeks ,to cook ,eggs in the shell #dde without boiling them 7an admirable receipt7 ,to boil ,eggs in the shell #dde ,to dress the ,eggs of the #ddf ,guinea ,fowl and ,bantam ,to dress ,turkeys' ,eggs #ddg ,forced ,turkeys' ,eggs 7or #ddg ,swans'71 an excellent entremets ,to boil a ,swan's ,egg hard #ddh ,swan's ,egg en ,salade #ddh ,to poach ,eggs of different #ddi kinds ,poached ,eggs with ,gravy 7ufs #ddi ,pochs au ,jus4 ,entremets47 ufs au ,plat #dej ,milk and ,cream #dej ,devonshire1 or ,clotted ,cream #dea ,du ,lait a ,madame #dea ,curds and ,whey #dea ,devonshire ,junket #deb ,,chapter ,,xxiii4 ,,sweet ,,dishes1 ,,or ,,entremets4 ,page ,to prepare ,calf's ,feet ,stock #dec ,to clarify ,calf's ,feet ,stock #ded ,to clarify ,isinglass #ded ,spinach ,green1 for colouring #dee ,sweet ,dishes1 ,confectionary1 or ,soups ,prepared ,apple or ,quince ,juice #def ,cocoa-nut flavoured ,milk 7for #def ,sweet ,dishes1 c47 ,remarks upon ,compotes of #def ,fruit1 or ,fruit stewed in ,syrup ,compote of ,rhubarb #deg ---- of ,green ,currants #deg ---- of ,green ,gooseberries #deg ---- of ,green ,apricots #deg ---- of ,red ,currants #deg ---- of ,raspberries #deh ---- of ,kentish or ,flemish #deh ,cherries ---- of ,morella ,cherries #deh ---- of the green ,magnum ,bonum1 #deh or ,mogul ,plum ---- of ,damsons #deh ---- of ripe ,magnum ,bonums1 or #deh ,mogul ,plums ---- of the ,shepherd's and other #deh ,bullaces ---- of ,siberian ,crabs #deh ---- of ,peaches #dei ,another receipt for stewed #dei ,peaches ,compote of ,barberries for #dei ,dessert ,black ,caps1 par excellence #dfj 7for the ,second ,course1 or for ,dessert7 ,gteau de ,pommes #dfj ,gteau of mixed ,fruits #dfa 7good7 ,calf's ,feet ,jelly #dfa 7entremets7 ,another receipt for ,calf's #dfb ,feet ,jelly ,modern varieties of ,calf's #dfc ,feet ,jelly ,apple ,calf's ,feet ,jelly #dfd ,orange ,calf's ,feet ,jelly #dfd 7,author's receipt7 ,orange ,isinglass ,jelly #dfe ,very fine ,orange ,jelly #dfe 7,sussex ,place receipt7 ,oranges filled with ,jelly #dff ,lemon ,calf's ,feet ,jelly #dfg ,constantia ,jelly #dfg ,rhubarb ,isinglass ,jelly #dfh 7,author's original receipt7 7good7 ,strawberry ,isinglass ,jelly #dfh ,fancy ,jellies1 and ,jelly in #dfi ,belgrave mould ,queen ,mab's ,pudding 7an #dgj elegant summer dish7 ,nesselrde ,cream #dga ,crme la ,comtesse1 or the #dgb ,countess's ,cream ,an excellent ,trifle #dgc ,swiss ,cream1 or ,trifle 7very #dgc good7 ,tipsy ,cake1 or ,brandy ,trifle #dgd ,chantilly ,basket filled with #dgd whipped ,cream and fresh ,strawberries ,very good ,lemon ,cream1 made #dge without ,cream ,fruit ,creams1 and ,italian #dge ,creams ,very superior whipped #dgf ,syllabubs ,good common ,blanc-mange1 or #dgf ,blanc ,manger 7,author's receipt7 ,richer ,blanc-mange #dgg ,jaumange1 or ,jaune ,manger2 #dgg sometimes called ,dutch ,flummery ,extremely good ,strawberry #dgg ,blanc-mange1 or ,bavarian ,cream ,quince ,blanc-mange #dgh 7delicious7 ,quince ,blanc-mange1 with #dgh ,almond ,cream ,apricot ,blanc-mange1 or ,crme #dgi ,parisienne ,currant ,blanc-mange #dgi ,lemon ,sponge1 or ,moulded ,lemon #dhj ,cream ,an ,apple ,hedgehog1 or #dhj ,sudoise ,imperial ,gooseberry-fool #dhj ,very good old-fashioned boiled #dha ,custard ,rich boiled ,custard #dha ,the ,queen's ,custard #dha ,currant ,custard #dhb ,quince or ,apple ,custards #dhb ,the ,duke's ,custard #dhb ,chocolate ,custards #dhc ,common baked ,custard #dhc ,a finer baked ,custard #dhc ,french ,custards or ,creams #dhd ,german ,puffs #dhd ,a ,meringue of ,rhubarb1 or #dhe green ,gooseberries ,creamed ,spring ,fruit1 or #dhf ,rhubarb ,trifle ,meringue of ,pears1 or other #dhf fruit ,an ,apple ,charlotte1 or #dhf ,charlotte de ,pommes ,marmalade for the ,charlotte #dhg ,a ,charlotte la ,parisienne #dhf ,a ,gertrude la ,crme #dhf ,pommes au ,beurre 7,buttered #dhh ,apples7 7excellent7 ,sudoise of ,peaches #dhh ,aroce ,doce1 or ,sweet ,rice #dhi la ,portugaise ,cocoa ,nut ,doce #dij ,buttered ,cherries 7,cerises au #dij ,beurre7 ,sweet ,macaroni #dij ,bermuda ,witches #dia ,nesselrde ,pudding #dia ,stewed ,figs 7a very nice #dib ,compote7 ,,chapter ,,xxiv4 ,,preserves4 ,page ,general ,remarks on the use and #dic value of ,preserved ,fruits ,a few ,general ,rules and #dif ,directions for ,preserving ,to ,extract the ,juice of ,plums #dig for ,jelly ,to weigh the ,juice of ,fruit #dih ,rhubarb ,jam #dih ,green ,gooseberry ,jelly #dih ,green ,gooseberry ,jam 7firm #dii and of good colour7 ,to dry green ,gooseberries #dii ,green ,gooseberries for ,tarts #dii ,red ,gooseberry ,jam #ejj ,very fine ,gooseberry ,jam #ejj ,jelly of ripe ,gooseberries #ejj 7excellent7 ,unmixed ,gooseberry ,jelly #eja ,gooseberry ,paste #eja ,to dry ripe ,gooseberries with #eja ,sugar ,jam of ,kentish or ,flemish #ejb ,cherries ,to dry ,cherries with ,sugar 7a #ejb quick and easy method7 ,dried ,cherries 7superior #ejc receipt7 ,cherries dried without ,sugar #ejc ,to dry ,morella ,cherries #ejd ,common ,cherry ,cheese #ejd ,cherry ,paste 7,french7 #ejd ,strawberry ,jam #ejd ,strawberry ,jelly1 a very #eje superior ,preserve 7new receipt7 ,another very fine ,strawberry #eje ,jelly ,to preserve ,strawberries or #ejf ,raspberries1 for ,creams or ,ices1 without boiling ,raspberry ,jam #ejf ,very rich ,raspberry ,jam1 or #ejf ,marmalade ,good ,red or ,white ,raspberry #ejg ,jam ,raspberry ,jelly for flavouring #ejg ,creams ,another ,raspberry ,jelly 7very #ejh good7 ,red ,currant ,jelly #ejh ,superlative ,red ,currant ,jelly #eji 7,norman receipt7 ,french ,currant ,jelly #eji ,delicious ,red ,currant ,jam #eji ,very fine ,white ,currant ,jelly #eaj ,white ,currant ,jam1 a beautiful #eaj ,preserve ,currant ,paste #eaj ,fine ,black ,currant ,jelly #eaa ,common ,black ,currant ,jelly #eaa ,black ,currant ,jam and #eaa ,marmalade ,nursery ,preserve #eab ,another good common ,preserve #eab ,a good ,mlange1 or mixed #eac ,preserve ,groseille1 7another good #eac ,preserve7 ,superior ,pine-apple ,marmalade #eac 7a new receipt7 ,a fine ,preserve of the green #ead ,orange ,plum 7sometimes called the ,stonewood ,plum7 ,greengage ,jam1 or ,marmalade #eae ,preserve of the ,magnum ,bonum1 #eae or ,mogul ,plum ,to dry or preserve ,mogul ,plums #eae in syrup ,mussel ,plum ,cheese and ,jelly #eaf ,apricot ,marmalade #eaf ,to dry ,apricots 7a quick and #eag easy method7 ,dried ,apricots 7,french #eag receipt7 ,peach ,jam1 or ,marmalade #eah ,to preserve or to dry ,peaches #eah or ,nectarines 7an easy and excellent receipt7 ,damson ,jam 7very good7 #eai ,damson ,jelly #eai ,damson or ,red ,plum ,solid #eai 7good7 ,excellent ,damson ,cheese #ebj ,red ,grape ,jelly #ebj ,english ,guava 7a firm1 clear1 #ebj bright ,jelly7 ,very fine ,imperatrice ,plum #eba ,marmalade ,to dry ,imperatrice ,plums 7an #eba easy method7 ,to bottle ,fruit for winter use #ebb ,apple ,jelly #ebb ,exceedingly fine ,apple ,jelly #ebc ,quince ,jelly #ebd ,quince ,marmalade #ebc ,quince and ,apple ,marmalade #ebe ,quince ,paste #ebe ,jelly of ,siberian ,crabs #ebf ,to preserve ,barberries in #ebf bunches ,barberry ,jam 7,first and best #ejf receipt7 ,barberry ,jam 7second #ebg receipt7 ,superior ,barberry ,jelly1 and #ebg ,marmalade ,orange ,marmalade 7a #ebg ,portuguese receipt7 ,genuine ,scotch ,marmalade #ebh ,clear ,orange ,marmalade #ebi 7,author's receipt7 ,fine ,jelly of ,seville ,oranges #ecj 7,author's original receipt7 ,,chapter ,,xxv4 ,,pickles4 ,page ,observations on ,pickles #eca ,to pickle ,cherries #ecb ,to pickle ,gherkins #ecb ,to pickle ,gherkins 7a ,french #ecc receipt7 ,to pickle ,peaches1 and ,peach #ecd ,mangoes ,sweet ,pickle of ,lemon #ecd 7,foreign receipt7 7to serve with roast meat7 ,to pickle ,mushrooms #ece ,mushrooms in brine1 for winter #ecf use 7very good7 ,to pickle ,walnuts #ecf ,to pickle ,beet-,root #ecg ,pickled ,eschalots 7,author's #ecg receipt7 ,pickled ,onions #ecg ,to pickle ,lemons and ,limes #ech 7excellent7 ,lemon ,mangoes 7,author's #ech original receipt7 ,to pickle ,nasturtiums #eci ,to pickle red ,cabbage #eci ,,chapter ,,xxvi4 ,,cakes4 ,page ,general ,remarks on ,cakes #edj ,to blanch and to pound ,almonds #edb ,to reduce ,almonds to a ,paste #edb 7the quickest and easiest way7 ,to colour ,almonds or #edb ,sugar-grains1 or ,sugar-candy1 for ,cakes or ,pastry ,to prepare ,butter for rich #edc ,cakes ,to whisk ,eggs for light rich #edc ,cakes ,sugar ,glazings and ,icings1 for #edc fine ,cakes and ,pastry ,orange-,flower ,macaroons #edd 7delicious7 ,almond ,macaroons #edd ,very fine ,cocoa-nut ,macaroons #ede ,imperials 7not very rich7 #ede ,fine ,almond ,cake #ede ,plain ,pound or ,currant ,cake #edf 7or rich ,brawn ,brack or ,borrow ,brack7 ,rice ,cake #edf ,white ,cake #edf ,a good ,sponge ,cake #edg ,a smaller ,sponge ,cake 7very #edg good7 ,fine ,venetian ,cake or ,cakes #edg ,a good ,madeira ,cake #edh ,a ,solimemne 7a rich ,french #edi breakfast cake1 or ,sally ,lunn7 ,banbury ,cakes #edi ,meringues #eej ,italian ,meringues #eea ,thick1 light ,gingerbread #eea ,acton ,gingerbread #eeb ,cheap and very good ,ginger #eeb ,oven-cake or ,cakes ,good common ,gingerbread #eec ,richer ,gingerbread #eec ,cocoa-nut ,gingerbread #eec 7original receipts7 ,delicious ,cream ,cake and ,sweet #eed ,rusks ,a good light ,luncheon-cake and #eed ,brawn ,brack ,a very cheap ,luncheon-biscuit1 #eee or ,nursery-cake ,isle of ,wight ,dough-nuts #eef ,queen ,cakes #eef ,jumbles #eef ,a good ,soda ,cake #eef ,good ,scottish ,short-bread #eeg ,a ,galette #eeg ,small ,sugar ,cakes of various #eeh kinds ,fleed1 or ,flead ,cakes #eeh ,light ,buns of different kinds #eei ,exeter ,buns #eei ,threadneedle-street ,biscuits #efj ,plain ,dessert ,biscuits and #efj ,ginger ,biscuits ,good ,captain's ,biscuits #efj ,the ,colonel's ,biscuits #efa ,aunt ,charlotte's ,biscuits #efa ,excellent ,soda ,buns #efa ,,chapter ,,xxvii4 ,,confectionary4 ,page ,to clarify ,sugar #efb ,to boil ,sugar from ,syrup to #efc ,candy1 or to ,caramel ,caramel 7the quickest way7 #efc ,barley-sugar #efd ,nougat #efd ,ginger-candy #efe ,orange-flower ,candy #efe ,orange-flower ,candy 7another #eff receipt7 ,cocoa-nut ,candy #eff ,everton ,toffee #efg ,chocolate ,drops #efg ,chocolate ,almonds #efh ,seville ,orange ,paste #efh ,,chapter ,,xxviii4 ,,dessert ,,dishes4 ,page ,dessert ,dishes #efi ,pearled ,fruit1 or ,fruit en #egj ,chemise ,salad of mixed ,summer ,fruits #egj ,peach ,salad #egj ,orange ,salad #ega ,tangerine ,oranges #ega ,peaches in ,brandy 7,rotterdam #ega receipt7 ,brandied ,morella ,cherries #ega ,baked ,compte of ,apples 7our #egb little lady's receipt7 ,dried ,norfolk ,biffins #egb ,normandy ,pippins #egb ,stewed ,pruneaux de ,tours1 or #egc ,tours dried ,plums ,to bake ,pears #egc ,stewed ,pears #egc ,boiled ,chestnuts #egd ,roasted ,chestnuts #egd ,almond ,shamrocks 7very good #egd and very pretty7 ,small ,sugar ,souffls #ege ,ices #ege ,,chapter ,,xxix4 ,,syrups1 ,,liqueurs1 ,,etc4 ,page ,strawberry ,vinegar1 of #egg delicious flavour ,very fine ,raspberry ,vinegar #egh ,fine ,currant ,syrup1 or ,sirop #egi de ,groseilles ,cherry ,brandy 7,tappington #egi ,everard receipt7 ,oxford ,punch #ehj ,oxford receipt for ,bishop #ehj ,cambridge ,milk ,punch #eha ,to mull ,wine 7an excellent #eha ,french receipt7 ,a ,birthday ,syllabub #eha ,an admirable cool cup #ehb ,the ,regent's1 or ,george the #ehb ,fourth's ,punch ,mint ,julep 7an ,american #ehb receipt7 ,delicious ,milk ,lemonade #ehc ,excellent portable ,lemonade #ehc ,excellent ,barley ,water 7,poor #ehc ,xury's receipt7 ,raisin ,wine1 which1 if long #ehc kept1 really resembles foreign ,very good ,elderberry ,wine #ehd ,very ,good ,ginger ,wine #ehd ,excellent ,orange ,wine #ehe ,the ,counsellor's ,cup #ehe ,,chapter ,,xxx4 ,,coffee1 ,,chocolate1 ,,etc4 ,page ,coffee #ehg ,to roast ,coffee #ehh ,a few general directions for #ehi making ,coffee ,excellent ,breakfast ,coffee #eij ,to boil ,coffee #eia ,caf ,noir #eib ,burnt ,coffee1 or ,coffee la #eib militaire 7,in ,france vulgarly called ,gloria7 ,to make ,chocolate #eib ,a ,spanish recipe for making #eib and serving ,chocolate ,to make ,cocoa #eic ,,chapter ,,xxxi4 ,,bread4 ,page ,remarks on ,home-made ,bread #eid ,to purify ,yeast for ,bread or #eie ,cakes ,the ,oven #eie ,a few rules to be observed in #eif making ,bread ,household ,bread #eif ,bordyke ,bread 7,author's #eig receipt7 ,german ,yeast 7and ,bread made #eih with ,german ,yeast7 ,professor ,liebig's ,bavarian #eii ,brown ,bread 7very nutritious and wholesome7 ,english ,brown ,bread #eii ,unfermented ,bread #eii ,potato ,bread #fjj ,dinner or ,breakfast ,rolls #fjj ,geneva ,rolls or ,buns #fja ,rusks #fjb ,excellent ,dairy ,bread1 made #fjb without ,yeast 7,author's receipt7 ,to keep ,bread #fjc ,to freshen stale ,bread 7and #fjc ,pastry1 c47 and preserve it from mould ,to know when ,bread is #fjd sufficiently baked ,on the proper fermentation of #fjd ,dough ,,chapter ,,xxxii4 ,,foreign ,,and ,,jewish ,,cookery4 ,page ,foreign and ,jewish ,cookery #fje ,remarks on ,jewish ,cookery #fjf ,jewish ,smoked ,beef #fjf ,chorissa 7or ,jewish ,sausage7 #fjg with ,rice ,to fry ,salmon and other ,fish #fjg in ,oil 7to serve cold7 ,jewish ,almond ,pudding #fjh ,the ,lady's or ,invalid's new #fjh ,baked ,apple ,pudding 7,author's original receipt4 ,appropriate to the ,jewish table7 ,a few general directions for #fji the ,jewish table ,tomata and other ,chatnies #fji 7,mauritian receipt7 ,indian ,lobster ,cutlets #faj ,an ,indian ,burdwan 7,entre7 #faa ,the ,king of ,oude's ,omlet #faa ,kedgeree or ,kidgeree1 an #fab ,indian breakfast-dish ,a simple ,syrian ,pilaw #fab ,simple ,turkish or ,arabian #fac ,pilaw 7,from ,mr4 ,lane1 the ,oriental traveller7 ,a real ,indian ,pilaw #fac ,indian receipt for ,curried #fad ,fish ,bengal ,currie ,powder1 ,no4 #a #fad ,risotto la ,mayonnaise #fae ,stufato 7a ,neapolitan #fae receipt7 ,broiled ,eels with sage #faf 7,entre7 7,german receipt4 ,good7 ,a ,swiss ,mayonnaise #fae ,tendrons de ,veau #fag ,poitrine de ,veau ,glace #fah 7,breast of ,veal stewed and glazed7 ,breast of ,veal simply stewed #fah ,compote de ,pigeons 7,stewed #fai ,pigeons7 ,mai ,trank 7,may ,drink7 #fbj 7,german7 ,a ,viennese ,souffl ,pudding1 #fbj called ,salzburger ,nockerl ,,introductory ,,chapter4 ,,trussing4 ,page ,remarks on ,trussing xxxiii ,general ,directions for xxxiii ,trussing ,to truss a ,turkey1 ,fowl1 xxxiv ,pheasant1 or ,partridge1 for roasting ,to truss ,fish xxxv ,,introductory ,,chapter4 ,,carving4 ,page ,remarks on ,carving xxxvii ,no4 #a4 ,cod's head and shoulder xxxviii 7and ,cod fish generally7 ,no4 #b4 ,a ,turbot xxxviii ,no4 #b;a4 ,soles xxxviii ,no4 #c4 ,salmon xxxviii ,no4 #d4 ,saddle of ,mutton xxxviii ,no4 #e4 ,a ,haunch of ,venison 7or xxxix ,mutton7 ,no4 #f4 ,sirloin or ,rump of ,beef xxxix ,no4 #f;a4 ,ribs of ,beef xxxix ,no4 #f;b4 ,a round of ,beef xxxix ,no4 #f;c4 ,a brisket of ,beef xl ,no4 #g4 ,leg of ,mutton xl ,no4 #h4 ,quarter of ,lamb xl ,no4 #i4 ,shoulder of ,mutton or xl ,lamb ,no4 #aj4 ,a ,sucking ,pig xl ,no4 #aj;a4 ,a fillet of ,veal xli ,no4 #aj;b4 ,a loin of ,veal xli ,no4 #aa4 ,a breast of ,veal xli ,no4 #ab4 ,a tongue xli ,no4 #ac4 ,a calf's head xli ,no4 #ad4 ,a ham xlii ,no4 #ae4 ,a pheasant xlii ,no4 #af4 ,a boiled fowl xliii ,no4 #ag4 ,a roast fowl xliv ,no4 #ah4 ,a partridge xliv ,no4 #ai4 ,a woodcock xlv ,no4 #bj4 ,a pigeon xlv ,no4 #ba4 ,a snipe xlv ,no4 #bb4 ,a goose xlv ,ducks xlvi ,no4 #bc4 ,a wild duck xlvi ,no4 #bd4 ,a turkey xlvi ,no4 #be4 ,a hare xlvii ,no4 #bf4 ,a fricandeau of veal xlvii ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,introductory ,,chapters4 ---------- ,,trussing4 ,illustration3 ,trussing ,needles4 ,,common and untrained cooks are often deplorably ignorant of this branch of their business1 a knowledge of which is1 nevertheless1 quite as essential to them as is that of boiling or roasting2 for without it they cannot1 by any possibility1 serve up dinners of decently creditable appearance4 ,we give such brief general directions for it as our space will permit1 and as our own observations enable us to supply2 but it has been truly said1 by a great authority in these matters1 that trussing cannot be 8taught by words20 we would1 therefore1 recommend1 that instead of relying on any written instructions1 persons who really desire thoroughly to understand the subject1 and to make themselves acquainted with the mode of entirely preparing all varieties of game and poultry more especially for table1 in the very best manner1 should apply for some practical lessons to a first-rate poulterer2 or1 if this cannot be done1 that they should endeavour to obtain from some well experienced and skilful cook the instruction which they need4 ,,general ,,directions ,,for ,,trussing4 ,before a bird is trussed1 the skin must be entirely freed from any down which may be on it1 and from all the stubble-ends of the feathers2#c the hair also must be singed from it with lighted writing paper1 care being taken not to smoke nor blacken it in the operation4 ,directions for cleansing the insides of birds after they are drawn1 are given in the receipts for dressing them1 ,chapters ,,xiv4 and ,,xv4 ,turkeys1 geese1 ducks1 wild or tame1 fowls1 and pigeons1 should all have the necks taken off close to the bodies1 but not the skin of the necks1 which should be left sufficiently long to turn down upon the backs for a couple of inches or more1 where it must be secured1 either with a needle and coarse soft cotton1 or by the pinions of the birds when trussed4 ,footnote #c3 ,this should be particularly attended to4 ,illustration ,for boiling1 all poultry or other birds must have the feet drawn off at the first joint of the leg1 or as shown in the engraving4 7,in the latter case1 the sinews of the joint must be slightly cut1 when the bone may be easily turned back as here47 ,the skin must then be loosened with the finger entirely from the legs1 which must be pushed back into the body1 and the small ends tucked quite under the apron1 so as to be entirely out of sight4 ,illustration ,the wings of chickens1 fowls1 turkeys1 and pigeons1 are left on entire1 whether for roasting or boiling4 ,from geese1 ducks1 pheasants1 partridges1 black game1 moor-fowl1 woodcocks1 snipes1 wild-fowl of all kinds1 and all small birds1 the first two joints are taken off1 leaving but one joint on1 thus3-- ,the feet are left on ducks1 and those of tame ones are trussed as will be seen at page #bgh1 and upon roast fowls1 pheasants1 black and moor-game1 pigeons1 woodcocks1 and snipes4 ,the thick coarse skin of the legs of these must be stripped1 or rubbed off with a hard cloth after they have been held in boiling water1 or over a clear fire for a few minutes4 ,the sharp talons must be pulled out1 and the nails clipped4 ,the toes of the pigeons for roasting should be cut off4 ,geese1 sucking-pigs1 hares1 and rabbits have the feet taken off at the first joint4 ,the livers and gizzards are served in the wings of roast turkeys and fowls only4 ,the heads are still commonly left on pheasants1 partridges1 and black game and moor-game2 but the fashion is declining4 ,of this we shall speak more particularly in the ensuing chapter4 ,poultry and birds in general1 except perhaps quite the larger kinds1 are more easily trussed into plump handsome form with twine and needles proper to the purpose 7for which see page #a71 than with skewers4 ,the manner in which the legs and wings are confined is much the same for all2 the principal difference being in the arrangement of the former for boiling1 which has already been explained4 ,there is a present mode of trussing very large fowls for boiling or stewing which to our taste is more novel than attractive4 ,the feet are left on1 and after the skin has been loosened from them in every part1 the legs are thrust entirely into the body by means of a slight incision made in the skin just above the first joint on the underside1 the feet then appear almost as if growing out of the sides of the breast3 the effect of this is not pleasing4 ,,to ,,truss ,a ,,turkey1 ,,fowl1 ,,pheasant ,,or ,,partridge1 ,,for ,,roasting4 ,first draw the skin of the neck down over the back1 and secure it from slipping up2 then thread a trussing needle of convenient size1#d for the occasion1 with packthread or small twine 7the former1 from being the most flexible1 is best72 pass it through the pinion of the bird1 then through the thick part of the thigh1 which must be brought up close under the wing1 and in a straight line quite through the body1 and through the leg and pinion on the other side2 draw them close1 and bring the needle back1 passing it through the thick part of the leg1 and through the second joint of the pinion1 should it be left on the bird2 tie it quite tight2 and then to secure the legs1 pierce the sidebone and carry the twine over the legs1 then pass the needle through the other sidebone1 and tie them close down4 ,if skewers be used they should be driven through the pinions and the legs1 and a twine passed across the back of the bird1 and caught over the points of it1 and then tied in the centre of the back3 this is only needful when the trussing is not firm4 ,footnote #d3 ,these may be had1 of various sizes1 at any good ironmongers4 ,illustration ,when the head is left on a bird1 it may still be trussed in the same way1 and the head brought round1 as shown here1 and kept in place by a skewer passed through it1 and run through the body4 ,when the bird is trussed entirely with skewers1 the point of one is brought from the other side1 through the pinions and the thighs1 and the head is fixed upon it4 ,the legs are then pressed as much as possible under the breast1 between it and the side-bones1 where they are lettered a b4 ,the partridge in the engraving is shown with the skewers just withdrawn after being roasted4 ,hares1 after being filled with forcemeat1 and sewn or securely fastened up with skewers1 are brought into proper roasting form by having the head fixed between the shoulders1 and either fastened to the back by means of a long skewer1 run through the head quite into it1 or by passing one through the upper part of the shoulders and the neck together1 which will keep it equally well in place1 though less thrown back4 ,the fore-legs are then laid straight along the sides of the hare1 and a skewer is thrust through them both and the body at the same time2 the sinews are just cut through under the hind-legs1 and they are brought forward as much as possible1 and skewered in the same manner as the others4 ,a string is then thrown across1 under the hare and over the points of both skewers1 being crossed before it is passed over the second1 and then tied above the back4 ,the ears of a hare are left on2 those of a rabbit1 which is trussed in the same way1 are taken off4 ,illustration3 ,paste ,brush4 ,joints of meat require but little arrangement1 either for the spit or for boiling4 ,a fillet of veal must have the flap1 or part to which the fat adheres1 drawn closely round the outside1 and be skewered or bound firmly into good shape3 this will apply equally to a round of beef4 ,the skin or flank of loins of meat must be wrapped over the ends of the bones1 and skewered on the underside4 ,the cook should be particularly careful to separate the joints when it has not been done by the butcher1 and necks of veal or mutton also1 or much trouble will often arise to the carver4 ,illustration3 ,cutlet ,bat4 ,to flatten and bring cutlets into uniform shape1 a bat of this form is used3 and to egg or to cover them with clarified butter when they are to be crumbed1 a paste-brush should be at hand4 ,indeed1 these and many other small means and appliances1 ought to be provided for every cook who is expected to perform her duty in a regular and proper manner1 for they save much time and trouble1 and their first expense is very slight2 yet many kitchens are almost entirely without them4 ,,to ,,truss ,,fish4 ,salmon1 salmon-peel1 pike1 and some few other large fish1 are occasionally trussed in the form of an ,s by passing a string through the head1 and tying it securely1 then through the centre of the body1 and next round the tail1 which should be turned the reverse way of the head1 and the whole should then be drawn closely together and well fastened4 ,whitings and other fish of small size are trussed with the tails merely skewered into their mouths4 ,obs4--,it is indispensable for cooks to know how to carve neatly for pies1 puddings1 fricassees1 and curries1 at the least1 hares1 rabbits1 fowls1 and other birds4 ,for those who are quite without experience in this branch of their business1 the directions and the illustrations in the next chapter for carving a fowl into joints1 will be found useful2 and probably many of the other instructions also4 ,,carving4 ,illustration3 ,fish ,carvers4 ,whether the passing fashion of the day exact it of her or not1 a gentlewoman should always1 for her own sake1 be able to carve well and easily1 the dishes which are placed before her1 that she may be competent to do the honours of a table at any time with propriety and self-possession4#e ,to gentlemen1 and especially to those who mix much in society1 some knowledge of this art1 and a certain degree of skill in the exercise of it1 are indispensable1 if they would avoid the chance of appearing often to great disadvantage themselves1 and of causing dissatisfaction and annoyance to others2 for the uncouth operations of bad carvers occasion almost as much discomfort to those who witness1 as they do generally of awkwardness and embarrassment to those who exhibit them4 ,footnote #e3 ,as this can only be accomplished by practice1 young persons should be early accustomed to carve at home1 where the failure of their first attempts will cause them much less embarrassment than they would in another sphere1 and at a later period of life4 ,the precise mode of carving various dishes must of course depend on many contingencies4 ,for a plain family-dinner1 or where strict economy is an imperative consideration1 it must sometimes1 of necessity1 differ from that which is laid down here4 ,we have confined our instructions to the fashion usually adopted in the world4 ,carving knives and forks are to be had of many forms and sizes1 and adapted to different purposes3 the former should always have a very keen edge1 and the latter two prongs only4 ,no4 #a4 ,,cod',s ,,head ,,and ,,shoulders 7,,and ,,cod ,,fish ,,generally47 ,the thick part of the back of this1 as of all large fish--salmon excepted--is the firmest and finest eating4 ,it should be carved across1 rather thick1 and1 as much as possible1 in unbroken slices1 from a to b4 ,the sound1 which is considered a delicacy1 lies underneath1 and lines the back-bone3 it must be reached with a spoon in the direction c4 ,the middle of the fish1 when served to a family party1 may be carved in the same manner1 or in any other which convenience and economy may dictate4 ,no4 #b4 ,a ,,turbot4 ,in carving this most excellent fish1 the rich gelatinous skin attached to it1 and a portion of the thick part of the fins1 should be served with every slice4 ,if the point of the fish-knife be drawn down the centre of the back through to the bone1 in the lines a b c1 and from thence to d d d1 the flesh may easily be raised upon the blade in handsome portions14 ,the thickest parts of all flat fish are the best4 ,a brill and a ,john ,dory are served exactly like a turbot4 ,,soles4 ,the more elegant mode of serving these1 and the usual one at good tables1 is to raise the flesh from the bones as from a turbot1 which is easily done when the fish are large2 but when they are too small well to admit of it1 they must be divided across quite through the bone3 the shoulders1 and thick part of the body1 are the superior portions4 ,no4 #c4 ,,salmon4 ,it is customary to serve a slice of the thick part of the back of this fish1 which is marked from a to b1 with one of the thinner and richer portions of it1 shown by the line from c to d4 ,it should be carved quite straight across1 and the fine flakes of the flesh should be preserved as entire as possible4 ,salmon-peel1 pike1 haddocks1 large whitings1 and all fish which are served curled round1 and with the backs uppermost1 are carved in the same manner2 the flesh is separated from the bone in the centre of the back1 and taken off1 on the outer side first1 in convenient portions for serving4 ,the flesh of mackerel is best raised from the bones by passing the fish-slice from the tail to the head3 it may then be divided in two4 ,no4 #d4 ,,saddle ,,of ,,mutton4 ,the manner of trussing this joint varies almost from season to season1 the mode which is considered in good taste one year being obsolete the next1 in families where passing fashions are closely observed4 ,it seems really immaterial whether it be served as shown in the engraving2 or whether two or three joints of the tail be left on and surrounded with a paper frill4 ,this joint is now trussed for roasting in the manner shown in the engraving2 and when it is dished a silver skewer replaces the one marked e4 ,it is likewise often still served in good families with only two or three joints of the tail left on4 ,the most usual mode of carving it is in thin slices cut quite along the bone1 on either side1 in the line a to b2 but it is sometimes sliced obliquely from c to d3 this last fashion is rather gaining ground4 ,the thick end of the joint must then1 of course1 be to the left of the carver4 ,a saddle of pork or of lamb is carved exactly in the same manner4 ,no4 #e4 ,a ,,haunch ,,of ,,venison 7,,or ,,mutton47 ,an incision must first be made entirely across the knuckle end of this joint1 quite down to the bone1 in the line a b1 to let the gravy escape2 it must then be carved in thin slices taken as deep as they can be1 the whole length of the haunch1 from c to d4 ,a portion of the fat should invariably be served with the venison4 ,no4 #f4 ,,sirloin ,,or ,,rump ,,of ,,beef4 ,as the very tender part of this favourite joint1 which lies under the bone1 and is called the fillet1 is preferred by many eaters1 the beef should be raised1 and some slices be taken from it in the direction a b1 before the carver proceeds further4 ,the slices should be cut quite across the joint1 from side to side1 as indicated by the line from c to d1 in which direction the whole of the meat is occasionally carved1 though it is much more usual to slice the upper part from e to f4 ,when the brown outside has been taken off this1 it should be evenly carved in thin slices1 and served with some of the gravy in the dish1 and accompanied with horseradish very lightly and finely scraped1 with tufts of which the beef is commonly garnished4 ,,ribs ,,of ,,beef4 ,are carved in the same manner as the sirloin2 but there is no fillet attached to them4 ,a ,,round ,,of ,,beef4 ,to carve this well1 a very sharp-edged and thin-bladed knife is requisite4 ,a thick slice should first be taken entirely off the top of the joint1 leaving it very smooth2 it should then be cut as thin and as evenly as possible1 and delicate slices of the fat or udder should be served with the lean4 ,a ,,brisket ,,of ,,beef ,is carved in slices quite across the bones4 ,no4 #g4 ,,leg ,,of ,,mutton4 ,this1 whether roast or boiled1 is dished as it lies in the engraving1 unless when fanciful eaters prefer the underside of the joint laid uppermost1 and carved quite across the middle1 for the sake of the finely grained meat which lies beneath the part commonly called the ,pope's eye4 ,in a general way1 the mutton should be sliced1 rather thick than thin as directed by the line between a b2 the fat will be found in the direction c d4 ,no4 #h4 ,,quarter ,,of ,,lamb4 ,the shoulder must be divided1 and raised entirely from the breast in the direction of the letters a b c d4 ,a slice of butter sprinkled with cayenne and salt is then usually laid between them1 and a little lemon-juice is added1 or a cold ,mitre d',htel sauce is substituted for these4 ,the shoulder may then be removed into another dish or not1 as is most convenient4 ,the brisket is next separated from the long bones in the line e f1 and carved in the direction g h2 the rib-bones are divided from i i to j j4 ,the choice of the different parts is offered in serving them4 ,no4 #i4 ,,shoulder ,,of ,,mutton ,,or ,,lamb4 ,commence by cutting from the outer edge direct to the bone of the shoulder in the line a b1 and carve as many slices from that part of the joint as it will afford3 then1 if more be required1 draw the knife on either side of the ridge of the blade-bone in the direction c c d d4 ,the fat must be carved in the line e f4 ,some eaters have a preference for the juicy1 but not very finely-grained flesh on the underside of the shoulder1 which must be turned1 for it to be carved4 ,for the mode of boning a shoulder of mutton or veal1 and giving it a more agreeable appearance1 see #bai4 ,no4 #aj4 ,a ,,sucking ,,pig4 ,every part of a sucking pig is good1 but some persons consider the flesh of the neck which lies between the shoulders1 and the ribs as the most delicate portion of it4 ,the shoulders themselves are preferred by others4 ,they should be taken off1 and the legs also1 by passing the knife under them at the letters a b c4 ,the ribs may then be easily divided from e to d4 ,the flesh only of the larger joints should be served to ladies2 but gentlemen often prefer it sent to them on the bones4 ,a ,,fillet ,,of ,,veal4 ,there is no difference between the mode of carving this and a round of beef2 but the brown outside slice of the veal is much liked by many eaters1 and a portion of it should be served to them when it is known to be so4 ,the forcemeat must be reached by cutting deeply into the flap1 and a slice of it served always with the veal4 ,a ,,loin ,,of ,,veal4 ,this may be carved at choice quite across through the thick part of the flesh1 or in slices taken in the direction of the bones4 ,a slice of the kidney1 and of the fat which surrounds it1 should accompany the veal4 ,no4 #aa4 ,a ,,breast ,,of ,,veal4 ,the brisket or gristles#f of this joint must first be entirely separated from the rib-bones by pressing the knife quite through it in the line between a and b2 this part may then be divided as shown by the letters c c c d d d1 and the long bones or ribs may easily be separated in the direction e f4 ,the taste of those who are served should be consulted as to the part of the joint which is preferred4 ,the sweetbread is commonly sent to table with a roast breast of veal1 and laid upon it3 a portion of it should be served with every plate of the breast4 ,footnote #f3 ,the tendons are literally the small white gristles themselves1 which are found under the flesh in this part of the joint4 ,when freed from the bone attached to them1 they may be dressed in a variety of ways1 and are extremely good3 but they require from four to six hours' stewing to render them perfectly tender1 even when each tendon is divided into three or four slices4 ,the upper flesh must be laid back from the tendons before they are taken from the breast1 not left adhering to them4 ,they are very good simply stewed in white gravy1 and served with green peas1 la ,franaise1 in the centre4 ,the breast entirely boned1 forced1 and rolled1 makes a handsome dish1 either roasted or stewed4 ,no4 #ab4 ,a ,,tongue4 ,this is sliced1 not very thin1 through the thickest and best part1 shown by the letters a b4 ,the fat of the root1 when it is liked1 must be carved by turning the tongue1 and cutting in the direction c d4 ,no4 #ac4 ,a ,,calf',s ,,head4 ,illustration ,an entire calf's head1 served in its natural form1 recalls too forcibly the appearance of the living animal to which it has belonged not to be very uninviting4 ,even when the half of one only is sent to table1 something of the same aspect remains1 and as it is in every way improved1 and rendered most easy to carve when boned#g and rolled1 we would recommend its being so prepared whenever it can be done without difficulty4 ,our engraving does not give a very flattering representation of it in that form1 but having been dressed with the skin on1 it was not quite so easily brought into handsome shape as if it had been freed from it2 yet we would nevertheless advise its being generally retained4 ,when the head is served without being boned1 it is carved across the cheek1 in the line from a to b2 the part which in flavour and appearance resembles a sweetbread1 and which is regarded as a delicacy1 lies in the direction indicated by the letters c d4 ,the flesh of the eye is another favourite morsel1 which must be detached from the head by passing the point of the carving knife deeply round the eye-hole1 in the circle marked e e4 ,footnote #g3 ,this will be more easily accomplished by an experienced cook after the head has been boiled for half an hour and then allowed to cool2 but it should not be left until cold before it is altogether prepared for dressing4 ,after the bones are removed1 it should be laid on a clean cloth1 and the inside sprinkled over or rubbed with a little salt1 mace1 and cayenne1 well mixed together2 the tongue may be laid upon1 and rolled up in it4 ,it must be secured1 first with a skewer1 and then bound tightly round with tape4 ,it should be boiled or stewed extremely tender2 and is excellent when just covered with good stock1 and simmered for two hours1 or when strong broth is substituted for this1 and the bones are added to it4 ,the head may be glazed1 and served with rich brown gravy1 or with the ordinary sauces if preferred2 and it may be eaten cold1 with ,oxford brawn sauce1 which is compounded of brown sugar1 vinegar1 mustard1 and salt1 mixed to the taste1 with the addition of oil when it is liked4 ,no4 #ad4 ,a ,,ham4 ,strict economists sometimes commence the carving of a ham at the knuckle1 and so gradually reach the choicer portion of it2 but this method is not at all to be recommended4 ,it should be cut at once through the thick part of the flesh1 quite down to the bone1 in the line a b1 and sliced very thin and evenly1 without separating the fat from the lean4 ,the decoration of the ham ,no4 #ad1 is formed by leaving on it a portion of the rind at the knuckle in a semi-circle1 and then trimming it into scollops or points at pleasure2 and the ornamental part of the top is formed from the fat which is pared away from the thick end and the edges4 ,a paper ruffle1 as will be seen1 is wrapped round the bone of the knuckle4 ,no4 #ae4 ,a ,,pheasant4 ,this bird was formerly always sent to table with the head on1 but it was a barbarous custom1 which has been partially abandoned of late in the best houses1 and which it is hoped may soon be altogether superseded by one of better taste4 ,the breast is by far the finest part of a pheasant1 and it is carved in slices from pinion to pinion1 in the lines a a b b2 the legs may then be taken off1 in the direction c d4 ,the bird1 when it is preferred so1 may be entirely dismembered by the directions for a fowl1 ,no4 #af4 ,black and moor-game are trussed and served like pheasants4 ,the breasts of both are very fine eating1 and the thigh of the black-cock is highly esteemed4 ,no4 #af4 ,a ,,boiled ,,fowl4 ,the boiled fowl of plate #f is represented as garnished with branches of parsley1 which is an error1 as they would be appropriate to it only if it were cold1 and it is seldom served so1 being considered insipid4 ,small tufts of cauliflower would have been in better keeping with it1 as the bird is supposed to be dished for the dinner-table4 ,unless it be for large family parties1 fowls are seldom carved there entirely into joints2 but when it is wished to divide them so1 the fork should be fixed firmly in the centre of the breast1 and the leg1 being first disengaged from the skin1 may be taken off with the wing in the line a b2 or1 the wing being previously removed1 by carving it down the line to b1 and there separating it from the neck-bone1 the leg may be released from the skin1 and easily taken off1 by cutting round it from a to c1 and then turning it with the fork1 back from the body1 when the joint will readily be perceived4 ,illustration ,after the leg and wing on the other side have been taken off in the same manner1 the merrythought must follow4 ,to remove this1 the knife must be drawn through the flesh in the line d e1 and then turned towards the neck quite under the merrythought1 which it will so lift from the breast1 in this form3--,the neck-bones--which lie close under the upper part of the wings1 and are shaped thus--must next be disengaged from the fowl1 by putting the knife in at the top of the joint1 dividing the long part of the bone from the flesh1 and breaking the short one off by raising it up1 and turning it from the body2 the breast1 which is shown here1 may then be divided from it by merely cutting through the tender ribs on either side4 ,illustration ,it is seldom that further disjointing than this is required at table2 but when it is necessary to cut up the entire fowl1 the remainder of it must be laid with the back uppermost1 and to take off the side-bones1 which are of this shape--the point of the knife must be pressed through the back-bone1 near the top1 about half an inch from the centre1 and brought down towards the end of the back1 quite through the bone1 then turned in the opposite direction1 when the joints will separate without difficulty4 ,all which then remains to be done is1 to lay the edge of the knife across the middle of the only two undivided bones1 and then with the fork to raise the small end of the fowl1 which will part them immediately3 to carve a boiled fowl or chicken in a more modern manner1 see the directions which follow4 ,the breast1 wings1 and merrythought1 are the most delicate parts of a fowl4 ,on the upper part of the sidebone is the small round portion of flesh called the oyster1 by many persons considered as a great delicacy4 ,no4 #ag4 ,a ,,roast ,,fowl4 ,it is not usual to carve fowls entirely at table in the manner described above4 ,the wings1 and any other joints are taken off only as they are required4 ,the breast of a very large fowl may be carved in slices like that of a turkey2 or the whole of that of a small one may be taken off with the wings1 as shown by the line a b4 ,as the liver is a delicacy1 the handsomer mode of serving these last is to remove the gizzard1 which is seldom eaten1 then to divide the liver1 and to send an equal portion of it with each wing4 ,the whole of a roast fowl may be carved by the directions we have already given for ,no4 #af4 ,no4 #ah4 ,a ,,partridge4 ,illustration ,when partridges are served to ladies only1 or in parties where they are present1 it is now customary to take off the heads1 to truss the legs short1 and to make them appear 7in poulterer's phrase7 all breast4 ,for gentlemen's dinners1 the heads may be left on or not at choice4 ,the most ready mode of carving a partridge is to press back the legs1 then to fix the fork firmly in the inside of the back1 and by passing the blade of the knife flat under the lower part of the breast1 to raise it1 with the wings1 entire from the body1 from which it easily separates4 ,the breast may then be divided in the middle1 as shown by the line from a to b in the engraving here4 ,this is by far the best and handsomest manner of carving a partridge1 but when the supply of game at table is small1 and it is necessary to serve three persons from the choicer parts of one bird1 a not very large wing should be taken off with the leg on either side1 in the line from a to b in ,no4 #ac1 and sufficient of the breast will still remain to send to a third eater4 ,the high game-flavour of the back of a partridge1 as well as that of various other birds1#h is greatly relished by many persons4 ,footnote #h3 ,a great man o the north eloquently describes that of a grouse as 8the most pungent1 palate-piercing1 wild bitter-sweet40 ,no4 #ai4 ,a ,,woodcock4 ,illustration ,the thigh and back are the most esteemed parts of a woodcock which1 being a small bird1 may be carved entirely through the centre of the breast and back1 or distributed in the same manner as the partridge for three1 which we have described2 or even carved down like a fowl1 if needful4 ,in whatever way it is divided1 however1 a portion of the toast which has received the trail1 and on which it should always be sent to table1 must invariably be served to all who partake of it4 ,the very old fashion of trussing the bird with its own bill1 by running it through the thighs and body1 is again adopted by very good cooks of the present day2 but the common method of preparing either woodcocks or snipes for table is this3 the trussing of the legs is1 however1 better shown at ,nos4 #ai and #ba of ,plate #f4 ,no4 #bj4 ,a ,,pigeon4 ,the breast and wings of a pigeon may be raised in the same way as those of a partridge 7see ,no4 #ah72 or the bird may be carved entirely through in the line a b4 ,for the second course1 pigeons should be dished upon young delicate water-cresses4 ,no4 #ba4 ,a ,,snipe4 ,this bird is trussed1 roasted1 and served exactly like a woodcock4 ,it is not of a size to require any carving1 beyond dividing in two1 if at all4 ,no4 #bb4 ,a ,,goose4 ,the skin below the breast1 called the apron1 must first be cut off in a circular direction as indicated by the letters a a a1 when a glass of port-wine or of claret1 ready mixed with a teaspoonful of mustard1 may be poured into the body or not1 at choice4 ,some of the stuffing should then be drawn out with a spoon1 and the neck of the goose1 which ought to be to the right and not to the left hand1 as here1 being turned a little towards the carver1 the flesh of the breast should be sliced in the lines from b b b to c c c1 on either side of the bone4 ,the wings may then be taken off like those of any other bird1 and then the legs1 which1 in the engraving ,no4 #bb1 are trussed so completely under the apron as to render their outline scarcely distinguishable4 ,graceful and well-skilled carvers never turn birds on their sides to remove any of the joints1 but those of a goose1 unless it be very young1 are sometimes severed from it with difficulty2 and the common directions for assisting the process in that case are1 to turn it on its side1 and with the fork to press down the small end of the leg2 then to pass the knife quite under it from the top down to the joint1 when the leg should be turned back from the bird with the fork1 while the thigh-bone is loosened from its socket with the knife4 ,the end of the pinion marked d is then held down in the same manner1 to facilitate the separation of the bones at e1 from which point the knife is drawn under the wing1 which it takes off4 ,the merrythought of a goose is small1 and1 to remove it the knife must first be turned a little from the neck1 after the flesh has been cut through1 and then passed under it1 back towards the neck4 ,for the remainder of the carving1 the directions for that of a fowl will suffice4 ,,ducks4 ,tame ducks are served with the feet 7which are liked by many people7 left upon them and trussed up over the backs4 ,if large they may be carved like a goose1 but when very young may be disjointed like chickens2 the only material difference between them being the position of the thigh-joints1 which lie much further towards the back-bone than those of a fowl4 ,no4 #bc4 ,a ,,wild ,,duck4 ,the breasts of wild-fowl are the only parts of them held in much estimation1 and these are carved in slices from the legs to the neck ,the legs and pinions may1 if required1 be taken off exactly like those of a pheasant4 ,no4 #bd4 ,a ,,turkey4 ,the carving of a turkey commences by taking slices off the breast1 from the letters b b quite through the forcemeat1 which lies under the letter a1 to c c3 the greater part of the flesh of the wings is thus taken off likewise4 ,when the bird is boned and filled with sausage or other forcemeat1 the breast is carved entirely across in the direction d e1 nearly1 or quite down to the back1 which it is better not altogether to divide at first1 as the appearance of the turkey is not then so good4 ,when it has been prepared in the ordinary manner1 after the breast has been disposed of1 the pinions and the legs may be taken off1 the first in the line from f to g1 and the latter by passing the knife under it at h1 and bringing it down to the joint at i j1 where it must be taken off in the line shown4 ,the whole of the joints being in form exactly like those of a fowl1 may be separated in the same manner4 ,the gizzard is more commonly eaten broiled after having been scored1 and very highly seasoned with cayenne and with a sufficiency of salt1 than in any other way4 ,a slice or portion of the liver should be served with the white flesh of the turkey as far as possible4 ,no4 #be4 ,a ,,hare4 ,a hare should be placed with its head to the left of the carver1 therefore the engraving ,no4 #be shows it turned in the wrong direction4 ,it is so very great an improvement to take out the back-bone before a hare is roasted1 that we would recommend it to be done wherever it can be so without difficulty3 it may then be carved in the line a b quite through1 or only partially so at choice4 ,when the bone remains in1 slices may be taken down the whole length of the back from c c to d d2 the legs1 which1 next to the back1 are considered the best eating1 may then be taken off in the direction e f and the flesh divided from or served upon them1 after the small bones have been parted from the thighs4 ,the shoulders1 which are not generally much esteemed1 though sometimes liked by sportsmen1 may next be taken off by passing the knife at the letters g h between the joint and the body4 ,when a hare is young1 the back is sometimes divided at the joints into three or four parts1 after being freed from the ribs and under-skin4 ,no4 #bf4 ,a ,,fricandeau ,,of ,,veal4 ,this is usually stewed1 or rather braised sufficiently tender to be divided with a spoon1 and requires no carving2 but the fat 7or underpart of the fillet7 attached to it1 marked a a a1 which is sometimes1 but not invariably served with it now1 may be carved in even slices4 ,the larding differs somewhat from that which we have described1 but the mode shown here allows the fricandeau to be glazed with more facility4 ,the engraving of the entre ,no4 #bf is intended merely to show the manner of dishing the cutlets4 ,they may be of mutton1 lamb1 veal1 or pork2 and the centre may be filled with the sauce or stewed1 vegetable appropriate to either2 as soubise1 pure of asparagus1 of mushrooms1 or of tomatas2 or green peas la ,franaise1 stewed cucumbers1 or aught else that is suited to the kind of meat which is served4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,plate #a4 ,illustration3 #a ,,cod',s ,,head4 ,illustration3 #b ,,turbot4 ,illustration3 #c ,,middle ,,of ,,salmon4 ,h4 ,adlard1 sc4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,plate #b4 ,illustration3 #d ,,saddle ,,of ,,mutton4 ,illustration3 #e ,,haunch ,,of ,,venison4 ,illustration3 #f ,,sirloin ,,of ,,beef4 ,h4 ,adlard1 sc4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,plate #c4 ,illustration3 #g ,,leg ,,of ,,mutton4 ,illustration3 #h ,,quarter ,,of ,,lamb4 ,illustration3 #i ,,shoulder ,,of ,,mutton4 ,h4 ,adlard sc4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,plate #d4 ,illustration3 #aj ,,sucking ,,pig4 ,illustration3 #aa ,,breast ,,of ,,veal4 ,h4 ,adlard1 sc4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,plate #e4 ,illustration3 #ab ,,ox-,,tongue4 ,illustration3 #ac ,,calf',s ,,head4 ,illustration3 #ad ,,ham4 ,h4 ,adlard1 sc4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,plate #f4 ,illustration3 #ae ,,pheasant4 ,illustration3 #ah ,,partridge4 ,illustration3 #ai ,,woodcock4 ,illustration3 #af ,,boiled ,,fowl4 ,illustration3 #bj ,,pigeon4 ,illustration3 #ba ,,snipe4 ,illustration3 #ag ,,roast ,,fowl4 ,h4 ,adlard1 sc4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,plate #g4 ,illustration3 #bb ,,goose4 ,illustration3 #bc ,,wild ,,duck4 ,illustration3 #bd ,,turkey4 ,h4 ,adlard1 sc4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,plate #h4 ,illustration3 #bf ,,entr,e ,,of ,,cutlets4 ,illustration3 #be ,,hare4 ,illustration3 #bg ,,fricandeau ,,of ,,veal4 ,h4 ,adlard1 sc4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,modern ,,cookery4 -------------- ,illustration ,,chapter ,i4 ,soups4 ,,ingredients ,,which ,,may ,,all ,,be ,,used ,,for ,,making ,,soup ,,of ,,various ,,kinds3--,beef--,mutton--,veal--,hams-- ,salted ,pork--,fat ,bacon--,pigs' ,ears and ,feet--,venison--,black and ,moor ,game--,partridges--,pheasants--,wild ,pigeons--,hares--,rabbits--,turkeys--,f owls--,tame ,pigeons--,sturgeon--,conger ,eel1 with all sorts of ,fish usually eaten--,all ,shell-,fish--,every kind of ,vegetable and ,herb fit for food--,butter--,milk--,eggs--,rice--,sag o--,arrow-,root--,indian ,corn--,hominy--,soujee--,tapioca--,pear l ,barley--,oatmeal--,polenta#i--,macaroni --,vermicelli--,semoulina1 and other ,italian ,pastes4 ,footnote #i3 ,the name given in ,english commerce to the maize flour or meal of ,italy4 ,,the art of preparing good1 wholesome1 palatable soups1 without great expense1 which is so well understood in ,france1 and in other countries where they form part of the daily food of all classes of the people1 has hitherto been very much neglected in ,england2#aj yet it really presents no difficulties which a little practice1 and the most common degree of care1 will not readily overcome2 and we strongly recommend increased attention to it1 not only on account of the loss and inconvenience which ignorance of it occasions in many households1 but because a better knowledge of it will lead naturally to improvement in other branches of cookery connected with it in which our want of skill is now equally apparent4 ,footnote #aj3 ,the inability of servants to prepare delicately and well even a little broth suited to an invalid1 is often painfully evident in cases of illness1 not only in common ,english life1 but where the cookery is supposed to be of a superior order4 ,we have endeavoured to show by the list at the beginning of this chapter the immense number of different articles of which soup may be in turn compounded4 ,it is almost superfluous to add1 that it may be rendered at pleasure exceedingly rich1 or simple in the extreme2 composed1 in fact1 of all that is most choice in diet1 or of little beyond herbs and vegetables4 ,from the varied produce of a well-stored kitchen garden1 it may be made excellent at a very trifling cost2 and where fish is fresh and abundant it may be cheaply supplied nearly equal in quality to that for which a full proportion of meat is commonly used4 ,it is best suited to the colder seasons of the year when thickened well with rice1 semoulina1 pearl barley1 or other ingredients of the same nature2 and adapted to the summer months when lighter and more refreshing4 ,families who have resided much abroad1 and those accustomed to continental modes of service1 prefer it usually in any form to the more solid and heavy dishes which still often supersede it altogether at our tables#aa 7except at those of the more affluent classes of society1 where it appears1 as a matter of course1 in the daily bills of fare71 and which are so oppressive1 not only to foreigners1 but to all persons generally to whom circumstances have rendered them unaccustomed diet2 and many a housekeeper who is compelled by a narrow income to adopt a system of rigid domestic economy1 would find it assist greatly in furnishing comfortable meals in a very frugal manner1 if the proper modes of making it were fully comprehended as they ought to be4#ab ,footnote #aa3 ,the popular taste in ,england1 even at the present day1 is far more in favour of what is termed 8substantial0 food1 than of any kind of pottage4 ,footnote #ab3 ,we are unable to give further space to this subject here1 but may probably resume it at another part of the book1 if practical4 ,the reader who desires to understand the principles of soup-making is advised to study with attention the directions for 8,baron ,liebeg's ,extract of ,beef10 in the present chapter1 and the receipt for bouillon which follows it4 ,a ,,few ,,directions ,,to ,,the ,,cook4 ,in whatever vessel soup is boiled1 see that it be perfectly clean1 and let the inside of the cover and the rim be equally so4 ,wash the meat1 and prepare the vegetables with great nicety before they are laid into it2 and be careful to keep it always closely shut when it is on the fire4 ,never1 on any account1 set the soup by in it1 but strain it off at once into a clean pan1 and fill the stock-pot immediately with water2 pursue the same plan with all stewpans and saucepans directly they are emptied4 ,skim the soup thoroughly when it first begins to boil1 or it will not be easy afterwards to render it clear2 throw in some salt1 which will assist to bring the scum to the surface1 and when it has all been taken off1 add the herbs and vegetables2 for if not long stewed in the soup1 their flavour will prevail too strongly4 ,remember that the trimmings1 and the bones of fresh meat1 the necks of poultry1 the liquor in which a joint has been boiled1 and the shank-bones of mutton1 are all excellent additions to the stock-pot1 and should be carefully reserved for it4 ,the remains of roast poultry and game also will improve both the colour and the flavour of broth or soup4 ,let the soup be very slowly heated1 and after it has been well skimmed1 and has boiled for a few minutes1 draw it to the side of the stove and keep it simmering softly1 but without ceasing1 until it is done2 for on this1 as will hereafter be shown1 its excellence principally depends4 ,every good cook understands perfectly the difference produced by the fast boiling1 or the gentle stewing1 of soups and gravies1 and will adhere strictly to the latter method4#ac ,footnote #ac3 ,it is most difficult to render rapidly-boiled soup or gravy clear for table2 but that which is only simmered will clarify itself if allowed to remain undisturbed for some little time 7half an hour or so7 after it is withdrawn from the fire2 it should then be poured very gently from the sediment4 ,calf's feet stock likewise may be converted into transparent jelly with far greater facility when it has not been thickened by too quick boiling1 by which so many preparations in our ,english kitchens are injured4 ,pour boiling water1 in small quantities at first1 to the meat and vegetables of which the soup is to be made when they have been fried or browned2 but otherwise1 always add cold water to the meat4 ,unless precise orders to the contrary have been given1 onions1 eschalots1 and garlic1 should be used for seasoning with great moderation2 for not only are they very offensive to many eaters1 but to persons of delicate habit their effects are sometimes extremely prejudicial2 and it is only in coarse cookery that their flavour is allowed ever strongly to prevail4 ,a small proportion of sugar1 about an ounce to the gallon1 will very much improve the flavour of gravy-stock1 and of all rich brown soups2 it may be added also to some others with advantage2 and for this1 directions will be given in the proper places4 ,two ounces of salt may be allowed for each gallon of soup or broth1 in which large quantities of vegetables are stewed2 but an ounce and a half will be sufficient for such as contain few or none2 it is always easy to add more if needful1 but oversalting in the first instance is a fault for which there is no remedy but that of increasing the proportions of all the other ingredients1 and stewing the whole afresh1 which occasions needless trouble and expense1 even when time will admit of its being done4 ,as no particle of fat should be seen floating on soup when sent to table1 it is desirable that the stock should be made the day before it is wanted1 that it may become quite cold2 when the fat may be entirely cleared off without difficulty4 ,when cayenne pepper is not mixed with rice-flour1 or with any other thickening1 grind it down with the back of a spoon1 and stir a little liquid to it before it is thrown into the stewpan1 as it is apt to remain in lumps1 and to occasion great irritation of the throat when swallowed so4 ,serve1 not only soups and sauces1 but all other dishes1 as hot as possible4 ,,the ,,time ,,required ,,for ,,boiling ,,down ,,soup ,,or ,,stock4 ,this must be regulated by several considerations2 for though the mere juices of meat require but little boiling after they have been fully extracted by the slow heating recommended by ,baron ,liebeg1 soup to which many vegetables are added 7winter vegetables especially7 requires long stewing to soften and to blend properly the flavour of all the ingredients which it contains1 as that of no one in particular ought to be allowed to predominate over the rest4 ,we have in consequence retained the old directions as to time1 in many of the following receipts2 but an intelligent cook will soon ascertain from practice and observation how and when to vary it with advantage4 ,over-boiling renders all preparations insipid1 and causes undue reduction of them likewise3 it is a fault1 therefore1 which should be carefully avoided4 ,,to ,,thicken ,,soups4 ,except for white soups1 to which arrow-root is1 we think1 more appropriate1 we prefer1 to all other ingredients generally used for this purpose1 the finest and freshest rice-flour1 which1 after being passed through a lawn sieve1 should be thoroughly blended with the salt1 pounded spices1 catsup1 or wine1 required to finish the flavouring of the soup4 ,sufficient liquid should be added to it very gradually to render it of the consistence of batter1 and it should also be perfectly smooth2 to keep it so1 it should be moistened sparingly at first1 and beaten with the back of a spoon until every lump has disappeared4 ,the soup should boil quickly when the thickening is stirred into it1 and be simmered for ten minutes afterwards4 ,from an ounce and a half to two ounces of rice-flour will thicken sufficiently a quart of soup4 ,instead of this1 arrow-root or the condiment known by the name of tous les mois1 which greatly resembles it1 or potato flour1 or the ,french thickening called roux 7see ,chapter ,v471 may be used in the following proportions3--,two and a half ounces of either of the first three1 to four pints and a half of soup2 to be mixed gradually with a little cold stock or water1 stirred into the boiling soup1 and simmered for a minute4 ,six ounces of flour with seven of butter1 made into a roux1 or merely mixed together with a large knife1 will be required to thicken a tureen of soup2 as much as half a pound is sometimes used2 these must be added by degrees1 and carefully stirred round in the soup until smoothly blended with it1 or they will remain in lumps4 ,we would1 however1 recommend any other thickening rather than this unwholesome mixture4 ,all the ingredients used for soups should be fresh1 and of good quality1 particularly ,italian pastes of every kind 7macaroni1 vermicelli1 c471 as they contract1 by long keeping1 a peculiarly unpleasant1 musty flavour4 ,onions1 freed from the outer skin1 dried gradually to a deep brown1 in a slow oven1 and flattened like ,norfolk biffins1 will keep for almost any length of time1 and are extremely useful for heightening the colour and flavour of broths and gravies4#ad ,footnote #ad3 ,the fourth part of one these dried onions 7des ognons brls71 of moderate size1 is sufficient for a tureen of soup4 ,they are sold very commonly in ,france1 and may be procured in ,london at many good foreign warehouses4 ,,to ,,fry ,,bread ,,to ,,serve ,,with ,,soup4 ,cut some slices a quarter of an inch thick from a stale loaf2 pare off the crust and divide the bread into dice1 or cut it with a small paste-cutter into any other form4 ,for half a pound of bread put two ounces of the best butter into a frying-pan1 and when it is quite melted1 add the bread2 keep it turned over a gentle fire until it is equally coloured to a very pale brown1 then drain it from the butter1 and dry it on a soft cloth1 or on a sheet of paper placed before a clear fire upon a dish1 or upon a sieve reversed4 ,,sippets ,,la ,,reine4 ,having cut the bread as for common sippets1 spread it on a dish1 and pour over it a few spoonsful of thin cream1 or of good milk3 let it soak for an hour1 then fry it in fresh butter of a delicate brown1 drain and serve the sippets very hot4 ,,to ,,make ,,nouilles4 7,an elegant substitute for ,vermicelli47 ,wet with the yolks of four eggs1 as much fine dry sifted flour as will make them into a firm but very smooth paste4 ,roll it out as thin as possible1 and cut it into bands of about an inch and a quarter in width4 ,dust them lightly with flour1 and place four of them one upon the other4 ,cut them obliquely into the finest possible strips2 separate them with the point of a knife1 and spread them upon writing paper1 so that they may dry a little before they are used4 ,drop them gradually into the boiling soup1 and in ten minutes they will be done4 ,various other forms may be given to this paste at will4 ,it may be divided into a sort of ribbon macaroni2 or stamped with small confectionary cutters into different shapes4 ,it is much used in the more delicate departments of cookery1 and when cut as for soup1 and prepared as for the ,genoises la ,reine of ,chapter ,,xviii4 makes very superior puddings1 pastry1 fritters1 and other sweet dishes4 ,,vegetable ,,vermicelli4 7,vegetables cut very fine for soups47 ,cut the carrots into inch lengths1 then pare them round and round in ribands of equal thickness1 till the inside is reached2 next cut these ribands into straws1 or very small strips2 celery is prepared in the same way1 and turnips also are first pared into ribands1 then sliced into strips2 these last require less boiling than the carrots1 and attention must be paid to this1 for if broken1 the whole would have a bad appearance in soup4 ,the safer plan is to boil each vegetable separately1 till tolerably tender1 in a little pale broth 7in water if this be not at hand71 to drain them well1 and put them into the soup1 which should be clear1 only a few minutes before it is dished4 ,for cutting them small1 in other forms1 the proper instruments will be found at the ironmonger's4 ,,extract ,,of ,,beef2 ,,or1 ,,very ,,strong ,,plain ,,beef ,,gravy ,,soup4 7,baron ,liebeg's ,receipt47 ,,observation4--,this admirable preparation is not only most valuable as a restorative of the best kind for invalids who require light but highly nutritious diet1 it is also of the utmost utility for the general purposes of the kitchen1 and will enable a cook who can take skilful advantage of it1 to convert the cold meat which often abounds so inconveniently in an ,english larder1 from our habit of having joints of large size so much served1 into good nourishing dishes1 which the hashes and minces of our common cookery are not1 though they may answer well enough as mere varieties of diet4 ,we shall indicate in the proper chapters the many other uses to which this beef juice--for such indeed it is--will be found eminently adapted4 ,of its value in illness it is impossible to speak too highly2 and in every family1 therefore1 the exact mode of making it ought to be thoroughly understood4 ,the economist who may consider it expensive1 must remember that drugs and medical advice are usually far more so2 and in cases of extreme debility the benefit derived from it1 when it is well prepared and judiciously administered1 is often remarkable4 ,it should be given in small quantities at first1 and in its pure state4 ,it may afterwards be varied by the addition of vermicelli1 semoulina1 or other preparations of the kind2 and also by using for it a portion of mutton1 calf's head1 poultry1 or game1 when these suit a patient as well as the beef4 ,,receipt4--,take a pound of good1 juicy beef 7rump-steak is best for the purpose71 from which all the skin and fat that can possibly be separated from it1 has been cut away4 ,chop it up small like sausage-meat2 then mix it thoroughly with an exact pint of cold water1 and place it on the side of the stove to heat very slowly indeed2 and give it an occasional stir4 ,it may stand two or three hours before it is allowed to simmer1 and will then require at the utmost but fifteen minutes of gentle boiling4 ,professor ,liebeg directs even less time than this1 but the soup then occasionally retains a raw flavour which is distasteful4 ,salt should be added when the boiling first commences1 and for invalids1 this1 in general1 is the only seasoning required4 ,when the extract is thus far prepared1 it may be poured from the meat into a basin1 and allowed to stand until any particles of fat it may exhibit on the surface can be skimmed off entirely1 and the sediment has subsided and left the soup quite clear 7which it speedily becomes71 when it may be poured gently off1 heated in a clean saucepan1 and served at once4 ,it will contain all the nutriment which the meat will yield4 ,the scum should always be well cleared from the surface of the soup as it accumulates4 ,to make light beef tea or broth1 merely increase the proportion of water to a pint and a half or a quart2 but in all else proceed as above4 ,meat 7without fat or skin71 #a lb42 cold water1 exact pint3 heating #b hours or more2 to boil #ae minutes at the utmost4 ,beef tea or broth4--,beef1 #a lb42 water1 #a-a_/b pint or #a quart4 ,obs4--,to mingle vegetable diet in its best form with this extract1 it will be sufficient1 as we have explained in 8,cookery for ,invalids10 to boil down the kind of vegetable desired1 sliced or cut up small1 in a very moderate quantity of water1 until its juices are well drawn out2 then to strain off the liquid from it with slight pressure1 and1 when it has become cold1 to pour it to the chopped meat instead of water4 ,several different sorts can be mixed together1 and cooked in this way3 the water must boil before they are added to it4 ,they should be much more tender than when merely boiled for table1 but not reduced to pulp4 ,the juice should remain clear2 no salt should be added2 and it should be quite cold before it is stirred to the meat4 ,when the extract is wanted for gravy1 a small portion of onion1 and of herbs1 carrots1 celery1 and the other usual vegetables1 may be stewed together1 to give it the requisite flavour4 ,about an inch square of the ,jewish beef 7see ,chapter of ,,foreign ,,cookery71 whether cooked or uncooked1 will impart a fine savour to it2 the smoked surface of this should be pared off before it is used1 and it may be added in thin slices4 ,,bouillon4 7,the ,common ,soup or ,beef-,broth of ,france2 cheap1 and very wholesome47 ,illustration ,this soup1 or broth as we should perhaps designate it in ,england1 is made once or twice in the week1 in every family of respectability in ,france2 and by the poorer classes as often as their means will enable them to substitute it for the vegetable or maigre soups1 on which they are more commonly obliged to subsist4 ,it is served usually on the first day with slices of untoasted bread soaked in it2 on the second1 it is generally varied with vermicelli1 rice1 or semoulina4 ,the ingredients are1 of course1 often otherwise proportioned than as we have given them1 and more or less meat is allowed according to the taste or circumstances of the persons for whom the bouillon is prepared2 but the process of making it is always the same1 and is thus described 7rather learnedly7 by one of the most skilful cooks in ,europe3 8,the stock-pot of the ,french artisan10 says ,monsieur ,carme1 8supplies his principal nourishment2 and it is thus managed by his wife1 who1 without the slightest knowledge of chemistry1 conducts the process in a truly scientific manner4 ,she first lays the meat into an earthen stock-pot1 and pours cold water to it in the proportion of about two quarts to three pounds of the beef2#ae she then places it by the side of the fire1 where it slowly becomes hot2 and as it does so1 the heat enlarges the fibre of the meat1 dissolves the gelatinous substances which it contains1 allows the albumen 7or the muscular part which produces the scum7 to disengage itself1 and rise to the surface1 and the ,,ozmazome 7which is the most savoury part of the meat7 to be diffused through the broth4 ,thus1 from the simple circumstance of boiling it in the gentlest manner1 a relishing and nutritious soup will be obtained1 and a dish of tender and palatable meat2 but if the pot be placed and kept over a quick fire1 the albumen will coagulate1 harden the meat1 prevent the water from penetrating it1 and the ozmazome from disengaging itself2 the result will be a broth without flavour or goodness1 and a tough1 dry bit of meat40 ,footnote #ae3 ,this is a large proportion of meat for the family of a ,french artisan1 a pound to the quart would be nearer the reality2 but it is not the refuse-meat which would be purchased by persons of the same rank in ,england for making broth4 ,it must be observed in addition1 that as the meat of which the bouillon is made1 is almost invariably sent to table1 a part of the rump1 the mouse-buttock1 or the leg-of-mutton piece of beef1 should be selected for it2 and the simmering should be continued only until this is perfectly tender4 ,when the object is simply to make good1 pure-flavoured1 beef broth1 part of the shin or leg1 with a pound or two of the neck1 will best answer the purpose4 ,when the bouilli 7that is to say1 the beef which is boiled in the soup71 is to be served1 bind it into a good shape1 add to it a calf's foot if easily procurable1 as this much improves the quality of the bouillon2 pour cold water to it in the proportion mentioned above1 and proceed1 as ,monsieur ,carme directs1 to heat the soup slowly by the side of the fire2 remove carefully the head of scum which will gather on the surface before the boiling commences1 and continue the skimming at intervals for about twenty minutes longer1 pouring in once or twice a little cold water4 ,next1 add salt in the proportion of two ounces to the gallon2 this will cause a little more scum to rise2 clear it quite off and throw in three or four turnips1 as many carrots1 half ahead of celery1 four or five young leeks1 an onion stuck with six or eight cloves1 a large half teaspoonful of peppercorns1 and a bunch of savoury herbs4 ,let the whole stew ,,very softly without ceasing1 from four hours and a half to six hours1 according to the quantity3 the beef in that time will be extremely tender but not overdone4 ,it will be excellent eating if properly managed1 and might often1 we think1 be substituted with great advantage for the hard1 half-boiled1 salted beef so often seen at an ,english table4 ,it should be served with a couple of cabbages1 which have been first boiled in the usual way1 then pressed very dry1 and stewed for ten minutes in a little of the broth1 and seasoned with pepper and salt4 ,the other vegetables from the bouillon may be laid round it or not at choice4 ,the soup if served on the same day must be strained1 well cleared from fat1 and sent to table with fried or toasted bread1 unless the continental mode of putting slices or crusts of untoasted bread into the tureen1 and soaking them for ten minutes in a ladleful or two of the bouillon1 be1 from custom1 preferred4 ,beef1 #h to #i lbs42 water1 #f quarts2 salt1 #c oz4 7more1 if needed72 carrots1 #d to #f2 turnips1 #d or #e2 celery1 one small head2 leeks1 #d to #f2 one onion1 stuck with #f cloves2 peppercorns1 one small teaspoonful2 large bunch of savoury herbs 7calf's foot if convenient72 to simmer #e to #f hours4 ,obs4 #a4--,this broth forms in ,france the foundation of all richer soups and gravies4 ,poured on fresh meat 7a portion of which should be veal7 instead of water1 it makes at once an excellent consomm or strong jellied stock4 ,if properly managed1 it is very clear and pale2 and with an additional weight of beef and some spoonsful of glaze1 may easily be converted into an amber-coloured gravy-soup1 suited to modern taste4 ,obs4 #b4--;,it is a common practice abroad to boil poultry1 pigeons1 and even game1 in the pot-au-feu or soup-pot4#af ,they should be properly trussed1 stewed in the broth just long enough to render them tender1 and served1 when ready1 with a good sauce4 ,a small ham1 if well soaked1 washed exceedingly clean1 and freed entirely from any rusty or blackened parts1 laid with the beef when the water is first added to it1 and boiled from three hours and a half to four hours in the bouillon1 is very superior in flavour to those cooked in water only1 and infinitely improves the soup1 which cannot however so well be eaten until the following day1 when all the fat can easily be taken from it3 it would1 of course1 require no salt4 ,footnote #af3 ,in wealthy families the soup is boiled in a metal soup-pot1 called a marmite4 ,,clear1 ,,pale ,,gravy ,,soup ,,or ,,consomm4 ,rub a deep stewpan or soup-pot with butter1 and lay into it three quarters of a pound of ham freed entirely from fat1 skin1 and rust1 four pounds of leg or neck of veal1 and the same weight of lean beef1 all cut into thick slices2 set it over a clear and rather brisk fire1 until the meat is of a fine amber-colour2 it must be often moved1 and closely watched1 that it may not stick to the pan1 nor burn4 ,when it is equally browned1 lay the bones upon it1 and pour in gradually four quarts of boiling water4 ,take off the scum carefully as it rises1 and throw in a pint of cold water at intervals to bring it quickly to the surface4 ,when no more appears1 add two ounces of salt1 two onions1 two large carrots1 two turnips1 one head of celery1 a faggot of savoury herbs1 a dozen cloves1 half a teaspoonful of whole white pepper1 and two large blades of mace4 ,let the soup boil gently from five hours and a half to six hours and a half2 then strain it through a very clean fine cloth1 laid in a hair sieve4 ,when it is perfectly cold1 remove every particle of fat from the top2 and1 in taking out the soup1 leave the sediment untouched2 heat in a clean pan the quantity required for table1 add salt to it if needed1 and a few drops of chili or of cayenne vinegar4 ,harvey's sauce1 or very fine mushroom catsup1 may be substituted for these4 ,when thus prepared the soup is ready to serve3 it should be accompanied by pale sippets of fried bread1 or sippets la reine4 7,at tables where ,english modes of service entirely prevailed1 clear gravy-soup1 until very recently1 was always accompanied by dice1 or sippets as they are called1 of delicately toasted bread4 ,these are now seldom seen1 but some ,italian paste1 or nicely prepared vegetable1 is served in the soup instead74 ,rice1 macaroni in lengths or in rings1 vermicelli1 or nouilles1 may in turn be used to vary it2 but they must always be boiled apart1 till tender1 in broth or water1 and well drained before they are slipped into it4 ,the addition of young vegetables1 too1 and especially of asparagus1 will convert it into superior spring-soup2 but they1 likewise1 must be separately cooked4 ,,another ,,receipt ,,for ,,gravy ,,soup4 ,instead of browning the meat in its own juices1 put it with the onions and carrots1 into a deep stewpan1 with a quarter of a pint of bouillon1 set it over a brisk fire at first1 and when the broth is somewhat reduced1 let it boil gently until it has taken a fine colour1 and forms a glaze 7or jelly7 at the bottom of the stewpan2 then pour to it the proper quantity of water1 and finish the soup by the preceding receipt4#ag ,footnote #ag3 ,the juices of meat1 drawn out with a small portion of liquid1 as directed here1 may easily be reduced to the consistency in which they form what is called glaze2 for particulars of this1 see ,chapter ,,iv4 ,the best method1 though perhaps not the easiest1 of making the clear1 amber-coloured stock1 is to pour a ladleful or two of pale but strong beef-broth to the veal1 and to boil it briskly until well reduced1 thrusting a knife when this is done into the meat1 to let the juices escape2 then to proceed more slowly and cautiously as the liquid approaches the state in which it would burn4 ,it must be allowed to take a dark amber-colour only1 and the meat must be turned1 and often moved in it4 ,when the desired point is reached1 pour in more boiling broth1 and let the pan remain off the fire for a few minutes1 to detach and melt the glaze2 then shake it well round before the boiling is continued4 ,a certain quantity of deeply coloured glaze1 made apart1 and stirred into strong1 clear1 pale stock1 would produce the desired effect of this1 with much less trouble4 ,obs4--,a rich1 old-fashioned ,english brown gravy-soup may be made with beef only4 ,it should be cut from the bones1 dredged with flour1 seasoned with pepper and salt1 and fried a clear brown2 then stewed for six hours1 if the quantity be large1 with a pint of water to each pound of meat1 and vegetables as above1 except onions1 of which four moderate-sized ones1 also fried1 are to be added to every three quarts of the soup1 which1 after it has been strained and cleared from fat1 may be thickened with six ounces of fresh butter1 worked up very smoothly with five of flour4 ,in twenty minutes afterwards1 a tablespoonful of the best soy1 half a pint of sherry1 and a little cayenne1 may be added to the soup1 which will then be ready to serve4 ,,cheap1 ,,clear ,,gravy ,,soup4 ,the shin or leg of beef1 if not large or coarse1 will answer extremely well for this soup1 and afford at the same time a highly economical dish of boiled meat1 which will be found very tender1 and very palatable also1 if it be served with a sauce of some piquancy4 ,from about ten pounds of the meat let the butcher cut evenly off five or six from the thick fleshy part1 and again divide the knuckle1 that the whole may lie compactly in the vessel in which it is to be stewed4 ,pour in three quarts of cold water1 and when it has been brought slowly to boil1 and been well skimmed1 as directed for bouillon 7,page #h71 throw in an ounce and a half of salt1 half a large teaspoonful of peppercorns1 eight cloves1 two blades of mace1 a faggot of savoury herbs1 a couple of small carrots1 and the heart of a root of celery2 to these add a mild onion or not1 at choice4 ,when the whole has stewed very softly for four hours1 probe the larger bit of beef1 and if quite tender1 lift it out for table2 let the soup be simmered from two to three hours longer1 and then strain it through a fine sieve1 into a clean pan4 ,when it is perfectly cold1 clear off every particle of fat2 heat a couple of quarts1 stir in1 when it boils1 half an ounce of sugar1 a small tablespoonful of good soy1 and twice as much of ,harvey's sauce1 or instead of this1 of clear and fine mushroom catsup4 ,if carefully made1 the soup will be perfectly transparent and of good colour and flavour4 ,a thick slice of lean ham will improve it1 and a pound or so of the neck of beef with an additional pint of water1 will likewise enrich its quality4 ,a small quantity of good broth may be made of the fragments of the whole boiled down with a few fresh vegetables4 ,brown caper1 or hot horseradish sauce1 or sauce ,robert1 or sauce piquante1 made with the liquor in which it is boiled1 may be served with the portion of the meat which is sent to table4 ,,vermicelli ,,soup4 7,potage au ,vermicelle47 ,drop very lightly1 and by degrees1 six ounces of vermicelli1 broken rather small1 into three quarts of boiling bouillon or clear gravy soup2 let it simmer for half an hour#ah over a gentle fire1 and stir it often4 ,this is the common ,french mode of making vermicelli soup1 and we can recommend it as a particularly good one for family use4 ,in ,england it is customary to soak1 or to blanch the vermicelli1 then to drain it well1 and to stew it for a shorter time in the soup2 the quantity also1 must be reduced quite two ounces1 to suit modern taste4 ,footnote #ah3 ,when of very fine quality1 the vermicelli will usually require less boiling than this4 ,we have named to the reader1 in another part of the volume1 ,mr4 ,cobbett1 #ah1 ,pall ,mall1 as supplying all the ,italian pastes extremely good4 ,there are1 of course1 many other houses in ,london where they may be procured equally so2 but in naming ,mr4 ,cobbett1 who is personally unknown to us1 we merely give the result of our own experience of many years4 ,some articles of very superior quality purchased for us at his warehouse by a person merely commissioned to procure the best that could be had 8from ,town10 first directed our attention to his house 7a long established one1 we believe71 which is justly noted1 especially amongst affluent country families1 for the excellence of the goods which it sends out4 ,we give this explanation1 because it seems invidious to select1 from the large number of deservedly celebrated establishments of the same class which are to be found here1 any one in particular for mention in a work of this nature4 ,bouillon1 or gravy soup1 #c quarts2 vermicelli1 #f oz42 #cj minutes4 ,or1 soup1 #c quarts2 vermicelli1 #d oz42 blanched in boiling water #e minutes2 stewed in soup #aj to #ae minutes4 ,,semoulina ,,soup4 7,soupe la ,smoule47 ,semoulina is used in the same way as the vermicelli4 ,it should be dropped very lightly and by degrees into the boiling soup1 which should be stirred all the time it is being added1 and very frequently afterwards2 indeed1 it should scarcely be quitted until it is ready for table4 ,skim it carefully1 and let it simmer from twenty to five-and-twenty minutes4 ,this1 when the semoulina is good and fresh1 is1 to our taste1 an excellent soup4 ,soup1 #c quarts2 semoulina1 #f oz42 nearly1 or quite #be minutes4 ,,macaroni ,,soup4 ,throw four ounces of fine fresh#ai mellow ,naples maccaroni into a pan of fast-boiling water1 with about an ounce of fresh butter1 and a small onion stuck with three or four cloves4#bj ,when it has swelled to its full size1 and become tender1 drain it well1 cut it into half-inch lengths1 and slip it into a couple of quarts of clear gravy-soup3 let it simmer for a few minutes1 when it will be ready for table4 ,observe1 that the macaroni should be boiled quite tender2 but it should by no means be allowed to burst1 nor to become pulpy4 ,serve grated ,parmesan cheese with it4 ,footnote #ai3 ,we must here repeat our warning against the use of long-kept macaroni1 vermicelli1 or semoulina2 as when stale they will render any dish into which they are introduced quite unfit for table4 ,footnote #bj3 ,for white soups omit the onion4 ,macaroni1 #d oz42 butter1 #a oz42 #a small onion2 #e cloves2 #c_/d hour1 or more4 ,in soup1 #e to #aj minutes4 ,obs4--,the macaroni for soups should always be either broken into short lengths before it is boiled1 or cut as above1 or sliced quickly into small rings not more than the sixth of an inch thick after it is boiled1 unless the cut or ring macaroni1 which may be purchased at the ,italian warehouses1 be used2 this requires but ten minutes' boiling1 and should be dropped into the soup in the same way as vermicelli4#ba ,four ounces of it will be sufficient for two quarts of stock4 ,it may be added to white soup after having been previously boiled in water or veal-broth1 and well drained from it3 it has a rather elegant appearance in clear gravy-soup1 but should have a boil in water before it is thrown into it4 ,footnote #ba3 ,for the different varieties of macaroni and vermicelli1 and the time required to boil each of them1 see ,chapter ,,xxi4 ,if served in very clear bright stock 7consomm71 it should be boiled apart until tender in a little good broth1 which ought also to be clear and entirely free from fat2 then well drained1 and put into the soup for a minute1 or into the tureen1 the instant before the soup is dished4 ,,soup ,,of ,,soujee4 ,the soujee is of ,indian origin1 but is now well manufactured in ,england1#bb and is1 we think1 somewhat more delicate than semoulina in flavour2 and being made from wheat of the finest quality1 is also quite as nutritious1 or more so4 ,for each quart of soup allow two ounces of soujee 7the proportions can always be otherwise adapted to the taste after the first trial72 drop it gradually into the boiling liquid1 and simmer it for ten or twelve minutes4 ,bullock's semola is another preparation which may be used in exactly the same manner to thicken soup2 but both this and soujee are more expensive at present than semoulina4 ,footnote #bb3 ,by ,messrs4 ,stephens and ,co41 #b ,white's ,row1 ,bishopsgate4 ,,potage ,,aux ,,nouilles1 ,,or ,,taillerine ,,soup ,make into nouille-paste1 with very fine dry flour1 the yolks of four fresh eggs1 and when ready cut1 drop it gradually into five pints of boiling soup2 keep this gently stirred for ten minutes1 skim it well1 and serve it quickly4 ,this is a less common1 and a more delicately flavoured soup than the vermicelli1 provided always that the nouilles be made with really fresh eggs4 ,the same paste may be cut into very small diamonds1 squares1 stars1 or any other form1 then left to dry a little1 and boiled in the soup until swollen to its full size1 and tender4 ,nouille-paste of four eggs2 soup1 #e pints3 #aj minutes4 ,,sago ,,soup4 ,wash in several waters1 and float off the dirt from six ounces of fine pearl sago2 put it into three quarts of good cold gravy-stock2 let it stew gently from half to three quarters of an hour1 and stir it occasionally1 that it may not burn nor stick to the stewpan4 ,a quarter of an ounce more of sago to each pint of liquid1 will thicken it to the consistence of peas-soup4 ,it may be flavoured with half a wineglassful of ,harvey's sauce1 as much cayenne as it may need1 the juice of half a lemon1 an ounce of sugar1 and two glasses of sherry2 or these may be omitted1 and good beef-broth may be substituted for the gravy-soup1 for a simple family dinner1 or for an invalid2 or1 again1 it may be converted into inexpensive white soup by the addition of some cream smoothly mixed with a dessertspoonful of arrow-root1 or of thick cream and new milk in equal portions4 ,veal broth would be the most appropriate for this1 or it might be made with half veal and half mutton4 ,sago1 #f oz42 soup1 #c quarts3 #cj to #de minutes4 ,,tapioca ,,soup4 ,this is made in the same manner1 and with the same proportions as the preceding soup1 but it must be simmered from fifty to sixty minutes4 ,,rice ,,soup4 ,in ,france1 this soup is served well thickened with the rice1 which is stewed in it for upwards of an hour and a half1 and makes thus1 even with the common bouillon of the country1 an excellent winter potage4 ,wipe in a dry cloth1 eight ounces of the best rice2 add it1 in small portions1 to four quarts of hot soup1 of which the boiling should not be checked as it is thrown in4 ,when a clear soup is wanted wash the rice1 give it five minutes' boil in water1 drain it well1 throw it into as much boiling stock or well-flavoured broth as will keep it covered till done1 and simmer it very softly until the grains are tender but still separate2 drain it1 drop it into the soup1 and let it remain in it a few minutes before it is served1 but without simmering4 ,when stewed in the stock it may be put at once1 after being drained1 into the tureen1 and the clear consomm may be poured to it4 ,an easy ,english mode of making rice-soup is this3 put the rice into plenty of cold water2 when it boils throw in a small quantity of salt1 let it simmer for ten minutes1 drain it well1 throw it into the boiling soup1 and simmer it gently from ten to fifteen minutes longer4#bc ,an extra quantity of stock must be allowed for the reduction of this soup which is always considerable4 ,footnote #bc3 ,the ,patna requires much less boiling than the ,carolina4 ,,white ,,rice ,,soup4 ,throw four ounces of well-washed rice into boiling water1 and in five minutes after pour it into a sieve1 drain it well1 and put it into a couple of quarts of good white boiling stock2 let it stew until tender2 season the soup with salt1 cayenne1 and pounded mace2 stir to it three quarters of a pint of very rich cream1 give it one boil1 and serve it quickly4 ,rice1 #d oz43 boiled #e minutes4 ,soup1 #b quarts3 #c_/d hour or more4 ,seasoning of salt1 mace1 and cayenne2 cream1 #c_/d pint3 #a minute4 ,,rice-,,flour ,,soup4 ,mix to a smooth batter1 with a little cold broth1 eight ounces of fine rice-flour1 and pour it into a couple of quarts of fast-boiling broth or gravy soup4 ,add to it a seasoning of mace and cayenne1 with a little salt if needful4 ,it will require but ten minutes' boiling4 ,soup1 #b quarts2 rice-flour1 #h oz43 #aj minutes4 ,obs4--,two dessertspoonsful of currie-powder1 and the strained juice of half a moderate-sized lemon will greatly improve this soup3 it may also be converted into a good common white soup 7if it be made of veal stock71 by the addition of three quarters of a pint of thick cream to the rice4 ,,stock ,,for ,,white ,,soup4 ,though a knuckle of veal is usually preferred for this stock1 part of the neck will answer for it very well4 ,whichever joint be chosen1 let it be thoroughly washed1 once or twice divided1 and laid into a delicately clean soup-pot1 or well-tinned large stout iron saucepan1 upon a pound of lean ham1 freed entirely from skin and fat1 and cut into thick slices2 or1 instead of this1 one half a pound of the ,jewish smoked beef1 of which we have already spoken1 and from which the smoked surface1 and all fat1 must be carefully carved away4 ,dutch or hung beef also will answer the same purpose1 but similar precautions must be observed with regard to the smoked portions of either2 as they would impart a very unpleasant flavour to any preparation4 ,should very rich soup be wished for1 pour in a pint only of cold water for each pound of meat1 but otherwise a pint and a half may be allowed4 ,when the soup has been thoroughly cleared from scum1 which should be carefully taken off from the time of its first beginning to boil1 throw in an ounce of salt to the gallon 7more can be added afterwards if needed71 two mild onions1 a moderate-sized head of celery1 two carrots1 a small teaspoonful of whole white pepper1 and two blades of mace2 and let the soup stew very softly from five to six hours1 if the quantity be large3 it should simmer until the meat falls from the bones4 ,the skin of a calf's head1 a calf's foot1 or an old fowl may always be added to this stock with good effect4 ,strain it into a clean deep pan1 and keep it in a cool place till wanted for use4 ,lean ham1 #a lb42 veal1 #g lbs2 water1 #d to #f quarts2 salt1 #a-a_/b oz4 7more if needed72 onions1 #b2 celery1 #a head2 carrots1 #b2 peppercorns1 #a teaspoonful2 mace1 #b blades3 #e to #f hours4 ,,mutton-,,stock ,,for ,,soups4 ,equal parts of beef and mutton1 with the addition of a small portion of ham1 or dried beef1 make excellent stock1 especially for winter-soups4 ,the necks of fowls1 the bones of an undressed calf's head1 or of any uncooked joint1 may be added to it with advantage4 ,according to the quality of soup desired1 pour from a pint to a pint and a half of cold water to each pound of meat2 and after the liquor has been well skimmed1 on its beginning to boil1 throw in an ounce and a half of salt to the gallon1 two small heads of celery1 three mild middling-sized onions1 three well-flavoured turnips1 as many carrots1 a faggot of thyme and parsley1 half a teaspoonful of white peppercorns1 twelve cloves1 and a large blade of mace4 ,draw the soup-pot to the side of the fire1 and boil the stock as gently as possible for about six hours2 then strain1 and set it by for use4 ,be particularly careful to clear it entirely from fat before it is prepared for table4 ,one third of beef or veal1 with two of mutton1 will make very good soup2 or mutton only will answer the purpose quite well upon occasion4 ,beef1 #d lbs42 mutton1 #d lbs4 7or1 beef or veal from #b to #c lbs42 mutton from #e to #f lbs472 water1 #a to #a-a_/b gallon2 salt1 #a-a_/b oz42 mild turnips1 #a lb42 onions1 #f oz42 carrots1 #c_/d lb42 celery1 #f to #h oz42 #a bunch of herbs2 peppercorns1 #a_/b teaspoonful2 cloves1 #ab2 mace1 #a large blade3 #f hours4 ,obs4--,salt should be used sparingly at first for stock in which any portion of ham is boiled2 allowance should also be made for its reduction1 in case of its being required for gravy4 ,,mademoiselle ,,jenny ,,lind',s ,,soup4 7,authentic ,receipt7 ,this receipt does not merely bear the name of 8,mademoiselle ,lind10 but is in reality that of the soup which was constantly served to her1 as it was prepared by her own cook4 ,we are indebted for it to the kindness of the very poplar ,swedish authoress1 ,miss ,bremer1 who received it direct from her accomplished countrywoman4#bd ,footnote #bd3 ,we were informed by ,miss ,bremer that ,mademoiselle ,lind was in the habit of taking this soup before she sang1 as she found the sago and eggs soothing to the chest1 and beneficial to the voice4 ,the following proportions are for a tureen of this excellent potage3-- ,wash a quarter of a pound of the best pearl sago until the water poured from it is clear2 then stew it quite tender and very thick in water or thick broth 7it will require nearly or quite a quart of liquid1 which should be poured to it cold1 and heated slowly73 then mix gradually with it a pint of good boiling cream1 and the yolks of four fresh eggs1 and mingle the whole carefully with two quarts of strong veal or beef stock1 which should always be kept ready boiling4 ,send the soup immediately to table4 ,,the ,,lord ,,mayor',s ,,soup4 ,wash thoroughly two sets of moderate sized pigs' ears and feet from which the hair has been carefully removed2 add to them five quarts of cold water1 and stew them very gently with a faggot of savoury herbs1 and one large onion stuck with a dozen cloves1 for nearly four hours1 when the ears may be lifted out2 stew the feet for another hour1 then take them up1 strain the soup1 and set it in a cool place that it may become cold enough for the fat to be quite cleared from it4 ,next1 bone the ears and feet1 cut the flesh down into dice1 throw a clean folded cloth over it1 and leave it so until the soup requires to be prepared for table2 then strew upon it two tablespoonsful of savoury herbs minced small1 half a saltspoonful of cayenne1 a little white pepper1 and some salt4 ,put into a large saucepan half a pound of good butter1 and when it begins to simmer thicken it gradually with as much flour as it will absorb2 keep these stirred over a very gentle fire for ten minutes or more1 but do not allow them to take the slightest colour2 pour the soup to them by degrees1 letting it boil up after each portion is added2 put in the meat1 and half a pint of sherry2 simmer the whole from three to five minutes2 dish the soup1 and slip into it two or three dozens of delicately fried forcemeat-balls4 7,see ,chapter ,,viii47 ,pigs' feet1 #h2 ears1 #d2 water1 #e quarts2 bunch savoury herbs2 #a large onion2 cloves1 #ab3 #c-a_/b to #d hours1 feet1 #a hour more4 ,butter1 #a_/b lb42 flour1 #f oz4#be3 #aj to #ab minutes4 ,minced herbs1 #b tablespoonsful2 cayenne and common pepper1 each #a_/b saltspoonful2 salt1 #a_/b teaspoonful or more2 sherry1 #a_/b pint3 #c to #e minutes4 ,forcemeat-balls1 #b to #c dozens4 ,footnote #be3 ,the safer plan for an inexperienced cook is to weigh the flour1 and then to sprinkle it from a dredging-box into the butter4 ,obs4--,we have given this receipt with the slightest possible variation from the original1 which we derived from a neighbourhood where the soup made by it was extremely popular4 ,we have better adapted it to our own taste by the following alterations4 ,,the ,,lord ,,mayor',s ,,soup4 7,author's ,receipt47 ,we prefer to have this soup made1 in part1 the evening before it is wanted4 ,add the same proportion of water to the ears and feet as in the preceding directions2 skim it thoroughly when it first boils1 and throw in a tablespoonful of salt1 two onions of moderate size1 a small head of celery1 a bunch of herbs1 two whole carrots1 a small teaspoonful of white peppercorns1 and a blade of mace4 ,stew these softly until the ears and feet are perfectly tender1 and1 after they are lifted out1 let the liquor be kept just simmering only1 while they are being boned1 that it may not be too much reduced4 ,put the bones back into it1 and stew them as gently as possible for an hour2 then strain the soup into a clean pan1 and set it by until the morrow in a cool place4 ,the flesh should be cut into dice while it is still warm1 and covered with the cloth before it becomes quite cold4 ,to prepare the soup for table clear the stock from fat and sediment1 put it into a very clean stewpan1 or deep saucepan1 and stir to it when it boils1 six ounces of the finest rice-flour smoothly mixed with a quarter of a teaspoonful of cayenne1 three times as much of mace and salt1 the strained juice of a lemon1 three tablespoonsful of ,harvey's sauce1 and half a pint of good sherry or ,madeira4 ,simmer the whole for six or eight minutes1 add more salt if needed1 stir the soup often1 and skim it thoroughly2 put in the meat and herbs1 and after they have boiled gently for five minutes1 dish the soup1 add forcemeat-balls or not1 at pleasure1 and send it to table quickly4 ,moderate-sized pigs' feet1 #h2 ears1 #d2 water1 #e quarts2 salt1 #a tablespoonful2 onions1 #b2 celery1 #a head2 carrots1 #b2 bunch of herbs2 peppercorns1 #a small teaspoonful2 mace1 #a blade3 #c-a_/b to #d-a_/b hours4 ,stock1 #e pints2 rice-flour1 #f oz42 cayenne1 #a_/d teaspoonful2 mace and salt1 each #c_/d of a teaspoonful2 juice of #a lemon2 ,harvey's sauce1 #c tablespoonsful2 sherry or ,madeira1 #a_/b pint3 #f to #h minutes4 ,savoury herbs1 #b tablespoonsful3 #e minutes4 ,obs4 #a4--,should the quantity of stock exceed five pints1 an additional ounce or more of rice must be used1 and the flavouring be altogether increased in proportion4 ,of the minced herbs1 two-thirds should be parsley1 and the remainder equal parts of lemon thyme and winter savoury1 unless sweet basil should be at hand1 when a teaspoonful of it may be substituted for half of the parsley4 ,to some tastes a seasoning of sage would be acceptable2 and a slice or two of lean ham will much improve the flavour of the soup4 ,obs4 #b4--;,both this soup1 and the preceding one1 may be rendered very rich by substituting strong bouillon 7see page #h7 or good veal broth for water1 in making them4 ,,cocoa-,,nut ,,soup4 ,pare the dark rind from a very fresh cocoa-nut1 and grate it down small on an exceedingly clean1 bright grater2 weigh it1 and allow two ounces for each quart of soup4 ,simmer it gently for one hour in the stock1 which should then be strained closely from it1 and thickened for table4 ,veal stock1 gravy-soup1 or broth1 #e pints2 grated cocoa-nut1 #e oz41 #a hour4 ,flour of rice1 #e oz42 mace1 #a_/b teaspoonful2 little cayenne and salt2 mixed with #a_/d pint of cream3 #aj minutes4 ,or3 gravy-soup1 or good beef broth1 #e pints3 #a hour4 ,rice flour1 #e oz42 soy and lemon-juice1 each #a tablespoonful2 finely pounded sugar1 #a oz42 cayenne1 #a_/d teaspoonful2 sherry1 #b glassesful4 ,obs4--,when either cream or wine is objected to for these soups1 a half-pint of the stock should be reserved to mix the thickening with4 ,,chestnut ,,soup4 ,strip the outer rind from some fine1 sound ,spanish chestnuts1 throw them into a large pan of warm water1 and as soon as it becomes too hot for the fingers to remain in it1 take it from the fire1 lift out the chestnuts1 peel them quickly1 and throw them into cold water as they are done2 wipe1 and weigh them2 take three quarters of a pound for each quart of soup1 cover them with good stock1 and stew them gently for upwards of three quarters of an hour1 or until they break when touched with a fork2 drain1 and pound them smoothly1 or bruise them to a mash with a strong spoon1 and rub them through a fine sieve reversed2 mix with them by slow degrees the proper quantity of stock2 add sufficient mace1 cayenne1 and salt to season the soup1 and stir it often until it boils4 ,three quarters of a pint of rich cream1 or even less1 will greatly improve it4 ,the stock in which the chestnuts are boiled can be used for the soup when its sweetness is not objected to2 or it may in part be added to it4 ,chestnuts1 #a-a_/b lb43 stewed from #b_/c to #a hour4 ,soup1 #b quarts2 seasoning of salt1 mace1 and cayenne3 #a to #c minutes4 ,cream1 #c_/d pint 7when used74 ,,jerusalem ,,artichoke1 ,,or ,,palestine ,,soup4 ,wash and pare quickly some freshly-dug artichokes1 and to preserve their colour1 throw them into spring water as they are done1 but do not let them remain in it after all are ready4 ,boil three pounds of them in water for ten minutes2 lift them out1 and slice them into three pints of boiling stock2 when they have stewed gently in this from fifteen to twenty minutes1 press them with the soup1 through a fine sieve1 and put the whole into a clean saucepan with a pint and a half more of stock2 add sufficient salt and cayenne to season it1 skim it well1 and after it has simmered for two or three minutes1 stir it to a pint of rich boiling cream4 ,serve it immediately4 ,artichokes1 #c lbs41 boiled in water3 #aj minutes4 ,veal stock1 #c pints #ae to #bj minutes4 ,additional stock1 #a-a_/b pint2 little cayenne and salt #b to #c minutes4 ,boiling cream1 #a pint4 ,obs4--,the palest veal stock1 as for white soup1 should be used for this2 but for a family dinner1 or where economy is a consideration excellent mutton-broth1 made the day before and perfectly cleared from fat1 will answer very well as a substitute2 milk too may in part take the place of cream when this last is scarce3 the proportion of artichokes should then be increased a little4 ,vegetable-marrow1 when young1 makes a superior soup even to this1 which is an excellent one4 ,it should be well pared1 trimmed1 and sliced into a small quantity of boiling veal stock or broth1 and when perfectly tender1 pressed through a fine sieve1 and mixed with more stock and some cream4 ,in ,france the marrow is stewed1 first in butter1 with a large mild onion or two also sliced2 and afterwards in a quart or more of water1 which is poured gradually to it2 it is next passed through a tammy1#bf seasoned with pepper and salt1 and mixed with a pint or two of milk and a little cream4 ,footnote #bf3 ,derived from the ,french tamis1 which means a sieve or strainer4 ,,common ,,carrot ,,soup4 ,the most easy method of making this favourite ,english soup is to boil some highly coloured carrots quite tender in water slightly salted1 then to pound or mash them to a smooth paste1 and to mix with them boiling gravy soup or strong beef broth 7see ,bouillon7 in the proportion of two quarts to a pound and a half of the prepared carrots2 then to pass the whole through a strainer1 to season it with salt and cayenne1 to heat it in a clean stewpan1 and to serve it immediately4 ,if only the red outsides of the carrots be used1 the colour of the soup will be very bright2 they should be weighed after they are mashed4 ,turnip soup may be prepared in the same manner4 ,obs4--,an experienced and observant cook will know the proportion of vegetables required to thicken this soup appropriately1 without having recourse to weights and measures2 but the learner had always better proceed by rule4 ,soup1 #b quarts2 pounded carrot1 #a-a_/b lb42 salt1 cayenne3 #e minutes4 ,a ,,finer ,,carrot ,,soup4 ,scrape very clean1 and cut away all blemishes from some highly-flavoured red carrots2 wash1 and wipe them dry1 and cut them into quarter-inch slices4 ,put into a large stewpan three ounces of the best butter1 and when it is melted1 add two pounds of the sliced carrots1 and let them stew gently for an hour without browning2 pour to them then four pints and a half of brown gravy soup1 and when they have simmered from fifty minutes to an hour1 they ought to be sufficiently tender4 ,press them through a sieve or strainer with the soup2 add salt1 and cayenne if required2 boil the whole gently for five minutes1 take off all the scum1 and serve the soup as hot as possible4 ,butter1 #c oz42 carrots1 #b lbs43 #a hour4 ,soup1 #d-a_/b pints3 #ej to #fj minutes4 ,salt1 cayenne3 #e minutes4 ,,common ,,turnip ,,soup4 ,wash and wipe the turnips1 pare and weigh them2 allow a pound and a half for every quart of soup4 ,cut them in slices about a quarter of an inch thick4 ,melt four ounces of butter in a clean stewpan1 and put in the turnips before it begins to boil2 stew them gently for three quarters of an hour1 taking care that they shall not brown1 then have the proper quantity of soup ready boiling1 pour it to them1 and let them simmer in it for three quarters of an hour4 ,pulp the whole through a coarse sieve or soup strainer1 put it again on the fire1 keep it stirred until it has boiled three minutes or four1 take off the scum1 add salt and pepper if required1 and serve it very hot4 ,turnips1 #c lbs42 butter1 #d oz43 #c_/d hour4 ,soup1 #b quarts3 #c_/d hour4 ,last time3 three minutes4 ,a ,,quickly ,,made ,,turnip ,,soup4 ,pare and slice into three pints of veal or mutton stock or of good broth1 three pounds of young mild turnips2 stew them gently from twenty-five to thirty minutes1 or until they can be reduced quite to pulp2 rub the whole through a sieve1 and add to it another quart of stock1 a seasoning of salt and white pepper1 and one lump of sugar3 give it two or three minutes' boil1 skim and serve it4 ,a large white onion when the flavour is liked may be sliced and stewed with the turnips4 ,a little cream improves much the colour of this soup4 ,turnips1 #c lbs42 soup1 #e pints3 #be to #cj minutes4 ,,potato ,,soup4 ,mash to a smooth paste three pounds of good mealy potatoes1 which have been steamed1 or boiled very dry2 mix with them by degrees1 two quarts of boiling broth1 pass the soup through a strainer1 set it again on the fire1 add pepper and salt1 and let it boil for five minutes4 ,take off entirely the black scum that will rise upon it1 and serve it very hot with fried or toasted bread4 ,where the flavour is approved1 two ounces of onions minced and fried a light brown1 may be added to the soup1 and stewed in it for ten minutes before it is sent to table4 ,potatoes1 #c lbs42 broth1 #b quarts3 #e minutes4 7,with onions1 #b oz47 #aj minutes4 ,,apple ,,soup4 7,soupe la ,bourguignon47 ,clear the fat from five pints of good mutton broth1 bouillon1 or shin of beef stock1 and strain it through a fine sieve2 add to it when it boils1 a pound and a half of good cooking apples1 and stew them down in it very softly to a smooth pulp2 press the whole through a strainer1 add a small teaspoonful of powdered ginger and plenty of pepper1 simmer the soup for a couple of minutes1 skim1 and serve it very hot1 accompanied by a dish of rice1 boiled as for curries4 ,broth1 #e pints2 apples1 #a-a_/b lb43 #be to #dj minutes4 ,ginger1 #a teaspoonful2 pepper1 #a_/b teaspoonful3 #b minutes4 ,,parsnep ,,soup4 ,dissolve1 over a gentle fire1 four ounces of good butter1 in a wide stewpan or saucepan1 and slice in directly two pounds of sweet tender parsneps2 let them stew very gently until all are quite soft1 then pour in gradually sufficient veal stock or good broth to cover them1 and boil the whole slowly from twenty minutes to half an hour2 work it with a wooden spoon through a fine sieve1 add as much stock as will make two quarts in all1 season the soup with salt and white pepper or cayenne1 give it one boil1 skim1 and serve it very hot4 ,send pale fried sippets to table with it4 ,butter1 #d-a_/b oz42 parsneps1 #b lbs43 #c_/d hour1 or more4 ,stock1 #a quart2 #bj to #cj minutes2 #a full quart more of stock2 pepper1 salt3 #a minute4 ,obs4--,we can particularly recommend this soup to those who like the peculiar flavour of the vegetable4 ,,another ,,parsnep ,,soup4 ,slice into five pints of boiling veal stock or strong colourless broth1 a couple of pounds of parsneps1 and stew them as gently as possible from thirty minutes to an hour2 when they are perfectly tender1 press them through a sieve1 strain the soup to them1 season1 boil1 and serve it very hot4 ,with the addition of cream1 parsnep soup made by this receipt resembles in appearance the ,palestine soup4 ,veal stock or broth1 #e pints2 parsneps1 #b lbs43 #cj to #fj minutes4 ,salt and cayenne3 #b minutes4 ,,westerfield ,,white ,,soup4 ,break the bone of a knuckle of veal in one or two places1 and put it on to stew1 with three quarts of cold water to the five pounds of meat2 when it has been quite cleared from scum1 add to it an ounce and a half of salt1 and one mild onion1 twenty corns of white pepper1 and two or three blades of mace1 with a little cayenne pepper4 ,when the soup is reduced one-third by slow simmering strain it off1 and set it by till cold2 then free it carefully from the fat and sediment1 and heat it again in a very clean stewpan4 ,mix with it when it boils1 a pint of thick cream smoothly blended with an ounce of good arrow-root1 two ounces of very fresh vermicelli previously boiled tender in water slightly salted and well drained from it1 and an ounce and a half of almonds blanched and cut in strips3 give it one minute's simmer1 and serve it immediately1 with a ,french roll in the tureen4 ,veal1 #e lbs42 water1 #c quarts2 salt1 #a-a_/b oz42 #a mild onion2 #bj corns white pepper2 #b large blades of mace3 #e hours or more4 ,cream1 #a pint2 almonds1 #a-a_/b oz42 vermicelli1 #a oz43 #a minute4 ,little thickening if needed4 ,obs4--,we have given this receipt without any variation from the original1 as the soup made by it--of which we have often partaken--seemed always much approved by the guests of the hospitable country gentleman from whose family it was derived1 and at whose well-arranged table it was very commonly served2 but we would suggest the suppression of the almond spikes1 as they seem unsuited to the preparation1 and also to the taste of the present day4 ,a ,,richer ,,white ,,soup4 ,pound very fine indeed six ounces of sweet almonds1 then add to them six ounces of the breasts of roasted chickens or partridges1 and three ounces of the whitest bread which has been soaked in a little veal broth1 and squeezed very dry in a cloth4 ,beat these altogether to an extremely smooth paste2 then pour to them boiling and by degrees1 two quarts of rich veal stock2 strain the soup through a fine hair sieve1 set it again over the fire1 add to it a pint of thick cream1 and serve it1 as soon as it is at the point of boiling4 ,when cream is very scarce1 or not easily to be procured1 this soup may be thickened sufficiently without it1 by increasing the quantity of almonds to eight or ten ounces1 and pouring to them1 after they have been reduced to the finest paste1 a pint of boiling stock1 which must be again wrung from them through a coarse cloth with very strong pressure3 the proportion of meat and bread also should then be nearly doubled4 ,the stock should be well seasoned with mace and cayenne before it is added to the other ingredients4 ,almonds1 #f oz42 breasts of chickens or partridges1 #f oz42 soaked bread1 #c oz42 veal stock1 #b quarts2 cream1 #a pint4 ,obs4 #a4--,some persons pound the yolks of four or five hard-boiled eggs with the almonds1 meat1 and bread for this white soup2 ,french cooks beat smoothly with them an ounce or two of whole rice1 previously boiled from fifteen to twenty minutes4 ,obs4 #b4--;,a good plain white soup maybe made simply by adding to a couple of quarts of pale veal stock or strong well-flavoured veal broth1 a thickening of arrow-root1 and from half to three quarters of a pint of cream4 ,four ounces of macaroni boiled tender and well-drained may be dropped into it a minute or two before it is dished1 but the thickening may then be diminished a little4 ,,mock ,,turtle ,,soup4 ,to make a single tureen of this favourite ,english soup in the most economical manner when there is no stock at hand1 stew gently down in a gallon of water four pounds of the fleshy part of the shin of beef1 or of the neck1 with two or three carrots1 one onion1 a small head of celery1 a bunch of savoury herbs1 a blade of mace1 a half-teaspoonful of peppercorns1 and an ounce of salt4 ,when the meat is quite in fragments1 strain off the broth1 and pour it when cold upon three pounds of the knuckle or of the neck of veal2 simmer this until the flesh has quite fallen from the bones1 but be careful to stew it as softly as possible1 or the quantity of stock will be so much reduced as to be insufficient for the soup4 ,next1 take the half of a fine calf's head with the skin on1 remove the brains1 and then bone it#bg entirely1 or let the butcher do this1 and return the bones with it2 these1 when there is time1 may be stewed with the veal to enrich the stock1 or boiled afterwards with the head and tongue4 ,strain the soup through a hair-sieve into a clean pan1 and let it drain closely from the meat4 ,when it is nearly or quite cold1 clear off all the fat from it2 roll the head lightly round1 leaving the tongue inside1 or taking it out1 as is most convenient1 secure it with tape or twine1 pour the soup over1 and bring it gently to boil upon a moderate fire2 keep it well skimmed1 and simmer it from an hour to an hour and a quarter2 then lift the head into a deep pan or tureen1 add the soup to it1 and let it remain in until nearly cold1 as this will prevent the edges from becoming dark4 ,cut into quarter-inch slices1 and then divide into dice1 from six to eight ounces of the lean of an undressed ham1 and if possible1 one of good flavour2 free it perfectly from fat1 rind1 and the smoked edges2 peel and slice four moderate-sized eschalots1 or if these should not be at hand1 one mild onion in lieu of them4 ,dissolve in a well-tinned stewpan or thick iron saucepan which holds a gallon or more1 four ounces of butter2 put in the ham and eschalots1 or onion1 with half a dozen cloves1 two middling-sized blades of mace1 a half-teaspoonful of peppercorns1 three or four very small sprigs of thyme1 three teaspoonsful of minced parsley1 one of lemon thyme and winter savoury mixed1 and when the flavour is thought appropriate1 the very thin rind of half a small fresh lemon4 ,stew these as softly as possible for nearly or quite an hour1 and keep the pan frequently shaken3 then put into a dredging box two ounces of fine dry flour1 and sprinkle it to them by degrees2 mix the whole well together1 and after a few minutes more of gentle simmering1 add very gradually five full pints of the stock taken free of fat and sediment1 and made boiling before it is poured in2 shake the pan strongly round as the first portions of it are added1 and continue to do so until it contains from two to three pints1 when the remainder may be poured in at once1 and the pan placed by the side of the fire that it may boil in the gentlest manner for an hour4 ,at the end of that time turn the whole into a hair-sieve placed over a large pan1 and if the liquid should not run through freely1 knock the sides of the sieve1 but do not force it through with a spoon1 as that would spoil the appearance of the stock4 ,the head in the meanwhile should have been cut up1 ready to add to it4 ,for the finest kind of mock turtle1 only the skin1 with the fat that adheres to it1 should be used2 and this1 with the tongue1 should be cut down into one inch squares1 or if preferred into strips of an inch wide4 ,for ordinary occasions1 the lean part of the flesh may be added also1 but as it is always sooner done than the skin1 it is better to add it to the soup a little later4 ,when it is quite ready1 put it with the strained stock into a clean pan1 and simmer it from three quarters of an hour to a full hour3 it should be perfectly tender1 without being allowed to break4 ,cayenne1 if needed1 should be thrown into the stock before it is strained2 salt should be used sparingly1 on account of the ham1 until the whole of the other ingredients have been mixed together1 when a sufficient quantity must be stirred into the soup to season it properly4 ,a couple of glasses of good sherry or ,madeira1 with a dessertspoonful of strained lemon-juice1 are usually added two or three minutes only before the soup is dished1 that the spirit and flavour of the wine may not have time to evaporate2 but it is sometimes preferred mellowed down by longer boiling4 ,the proportion of lemon-juice may be doubled at will1 but much acid is not generally liked4 ,we can assure the reader of the excellence of the soup made by this receipt2 it is equally palatable and delicate1 and not heavy or cloying to the stomach1 like many of the elaborate compositions which bear its name4 ,the fat1 through the whole process1 should be carefully skimmed off4 ,the ham gives far more savour1 when used as we have directed1 than when1 even in much larger proportion1 it is boiled down in the stock4 ,two dozens of forcemeat-balls1 prepared by the receipt ,no4 #aa1 ,chap4 ,,viii41 should be dropped into the soup when it is ready for table4 ,it is no longer customary to serve egg-balls in it4 ,footnote #bg3 ,this is so simple and easy a process1 that the cook may readily accomplish it with very little attention4 ,let her only work the knife close to the bone always1 so as to take the flesh clean from it1 instead of leaving large fragments on4 ,the jaw-bone may first be removed1 and the flesh turned back from the edge of the other4 ,first broth3--shin1 or neck of beef1 #d lbs42 water1 #d quarts2 carrots1 #b or #c2 large mild onion1 #a2 celery1 small head2 bunch savoury herbs2 mace1 #a large blade2 peppercorns1 #a_/b teaspoonful2 cloves1 #f2 salt1 #a oz43 #e hours or more1 very gently4 ,for stock3 the broth and #c lbs4 neck or knuckle of veal 7bones of head if ready73 #d to #e hours4 ,boned half-head with skin on and tongue1 #a to #a-a_/d hour4 ,lean of undressed ham1 #f to #h oz4 7#f if very salt72 shalots1 #d1 or onion1 #a2 fresh butter1 #d oz42 cloves1 #f2 middling-sized blades of mace1 #b2 peppercorns1 #a_/b teaspoonful2 small sprigs of thyme1 #c or #d2 minced parsley1 #c large teaspoonsful2 minced savoury and lemon-thyme mixed1 #a small teaspoonful 7thin rind #a_/b small lemon1 when liked73 #a hour4 ,flour1 #b oz43 #e minutes4 ,stock1 full five pints2 flesh of head and tongue1 #a-c_/d to #b lbs43 #c_/d of an hour to #a hour 7salt1 if needed1 to be added in interim74 ,good sherry or ,madeira1 #b wineglassesful2 lemon-juice1 #a to #b dessertspoonsful2 forcemeat-balls1 #bd4 ,obs4 #a4--,the beef1 veal1 bones of the head1 and vegetables may be stewed down together when more convenient3 it is only necessary that a really good1 well flavoured1 and rather deeply-coloured stock should be prepared4 ,a calf's foot is always an advantageous addition to it1 and the skin of another calf's head#bh a better one still4 ,footnote #bh3 ,country butchers1 in preparing a calf's head for sale in the ordinary way1 take off the skin 7or scalp71 considered so essential to the excellence of this soup1 and frequently throw it away2 it may1 therefore1 often be procured from them at very slight cost1 and is the best possible addition to the mock turtle4 ,it is cleared from the head in detached portions with the hair on1 but this may easily be removed after a few minutes' scalding as from the head itself1 or the feet1 by the direction given in ,chapter of ,sweet ,dishes4 ,in ,london it is sold entire1 and very nicely prepared1 and may be served in many forms1 besides being added to soup with great advantage4 ,obs4 #b4--;,a couple of dozens mushroom-buttons1 cleaned with salt and flannel1 then wiped very dry1 and sliced1 and added to the ham and herbs when they have been simmered together about half an hour1 will be found an improvement to the soup4 ,claret is sometimes added instead of sherry or ,madeira1 but we do not think it would in general suit ,english taste so well4 ,from two to three tablespoonsful of ,harvey's sauce can be stirred in with the wine when it is liked1 or when the colour requires deepening4 ,,old-,,fashioned ,,mock ,,turtle4 ,after having taken out the brain and washed and soaked the head well1 pour to it nine quarts of cold water1 bring it gently to boil1 skim it very clean1 boil it if large an hour and a half1 lift it out1 and put into the liquor eight pounds of neck of beef lightly browned in a little fresh butter1 with three or four thick slices of lean ham1 four large onions sliced1 three heads of celery1 three large carrots1 a large bunch of savoury herbs1 the rind of a lemon pared very thin1 a dessertspoonful of peppercorns1 two ounces of salt1 and after the meat has been taken from the head1 all the bones and fragments4 ,stew these gently from six to seven hours1 then strain off the stock and set it into a very cool place1 that the fat may become firm enough on the top to be cleared off easily4 ,the skin and fat of the head should be taken off together and divided into strips of two or three inches in length1 and one in width2 the tongue may be carved in the same manner1 or into dice4 ,put the stock1 of which there ought to be between four and five quarts1 into a large soup or stewpot2 thicken it when it boils with four ounces of fresh butter#bi mixed with an equal weight of fine dry flour1 a half-teaspoonful of pounded mace1 and a third as much of cayenne 7it is better to use these sparingly at first1 and to add more should the soup require it1 after it has boiled some little time72 pour in half a pint of sherry1 stir the whole together until it has simmered for a minute or two1 then put in the head1 and let it stew gently from an hour and a quarter to an hour and a half3 stir it often1 and clear it perfectly from scum4 ,put into it just before it is ready for table three dozens of small forcemeat-balls2 the brain cut into dice 7after having been well soaked1 scalded1#cj and freed from the film71 dipped into beaten yolk of egg1 then into the finest crumbs mixed with salt1 white pepper1 a little grated nutmeg1 fine lemon-rind1 and chopped parsley fried a fine brown1 well drained and dried2 and as many egg-balls1 the size of a small marble1 as the yolks of four eggs will supply4 7,see ,chapter ,,viii74 ,this quantity will be sufficient for two large tureens of soup2 when the whole is not wanted for table at the same time1 it is better to add wine only to so much as will be required for immediate consumption1 or if it cannot conveniently be divided1 to heat the wine in a small saucepan with a little of the soup1 to turn it into the tureen1 and then to mix it with the remainder by stirring the whole gently after the tureen is filled4 ,some persons simply put in the cold wine just before the soup is dished1 but this is not so well4 ,footnote #bi3 ,when the butter is considered objectionable1 the flour1 without it1 may be mixed to the smoothest batter possible1 with a little cold stock or water1 and stirred briskly into the boiling soup3 the spices should be blended with it4 ,footnote #cj3 ,the brain should be blanched1 that is1 thrown into boiling water with a little salt in it1 and boiled from five to eight minutes1 then lifted out and laid into cold water for a quarter of an hour3 it must be wiped very dry before it is fried4 ,whole calf's head with skin on1 boiled #a-a_/b hour4 ,stock3 neck of beef1 browned in butter1 #h lbs42 lean of ham1 #a_/b to #c_/d lb42 onions1 #d2 large carrots1 #c2 heads of celery1 #c2 large bunch herbs2 salt1 #b oz4 7as much more to be added when the soup is made as will season it sufficiently72 thin rind1 #a lemon2 peppercorns1 #a dessertspoonful2 bones and trimmings of head3 #h hours4 ,soup3 stock1 #d to #e quarts2 flour and butter for thickening1 of each #d oz42 pounded mace1 half-teaspoonful2 cayenne1 third as much 7more of each as needed72 sherry1 half pint3 #b to #c minutes4 ,flesh of head and tongue1 nearly or quite #b lbs43 #a-a_/d to #a-a_/b hour4 ,forcemeat-balls1 #cf2 the brain cut and fried2 egg-balls1 #af to #bd4 ,obs4--,when the brain is not blanched it must be cut thinner in the form of small cakes1 or it will not be done through by the time it has taken enough colour3 it may be altogether omitted without much detriment to the soup1 and will make an excellent corner dish if gently stewed in white gravy for half an hour1 and served with it thickened with cream and arrow-root to the consistency of good white sauce1 then rather highly seasoned1 and mixed with plenty of minced parsley1 and some lemon-juice4 ,,good ,,calf',s ,,head ,,soup4 7,not expensive47 ,stew down from six to seven pounds of the thick part of a shin of beef with a little lean ham1 or a slice of hung beef1 or of ,jewish beef1 trimmed free from the smoky edges1 in five quarts of water until reduced nearly half1 with the addition1 when it first begins to boil1 of an ounce of salt1 a large bunch of savoury herbs1 one large onion1 a head of celery1 three carrots1 two or three turnips1 two small blades of mace1 eight or ten cloves1 and a few white or black peppercorns4 ,let it boil gently that it may not be too much reduced1 for six or seven hours1 then strain it into a clean pan and set it by for use4 ,take out the bone from half a calf's head with the skin on 7the butcher will do this if desired71 wash1 roll1 and bind it with a bit of tape or twine1 and lay it into a stewpan1 with the bones and tongue2 cover the whole with the beef stock1 and stew it for an hour and a half2 then lift it into a deep earthen pan and let it cool in the liquor1 as this will prevent the edges from becoming dry or discoloured4 ,take it out before it is quite cold2 strain1 and skim all the fat carefully from the stock2 and heat five pints in a large clean saucepan1 with the head cut into small thick slices or into inch-squares4 ,as quite the whole will not be needed1 leave a portion of the fat1 but add every morsel of the skin to the soup1 and of the tongue also4 ,should the first of these not be perfectly tender1 it must be simmered gently till it is so2 then stir into the soup from six to eight ounces of fine rice-flour mixed with a quarter-teaspoonful of cayenne1 twice as much freshly pounded mace1 half a wineglassful of mushroom catsup1#ca and sufficient cold broth or water to render it of the consistence of batter2 boil the whole from eight to ten minutes2 take off the scum1 and throw in two glasses of sherry2 dish the soup and put into the tureen some delicately and well fried forcemeat-balls made by the receipt ,no4 #a1 #b1 or #c1 of ,chapter ,,viii4 ,a small quantity of lemon-juice or other acid can be added at pleasure4 ,the wine and forcemeat-balls may be omitted1 and the other seasonings of the soup a little heightened4 ,as much salt as may be required should be added to the stock when the head first begins to boil in it3 the cook must regulate also by the taste the exact proportion of cayenne1 mace1 and catsup1 which will flavour the soup agreeably4 ,the fragments of the head1 with the bones and the residue of the beef used for stock1 if stewed down together with some water and a few fresh vegetables1 will afford some excellent broth1 such as would be highly acceptable1 especially if well thickened with rice1 to many a poor family during the winter months4 ,footnote #ca3 ,unless very good and pure in flavour1 we cannot recommend the addition of this or of any other catsup to soup or gravy4 ,stock3 shin of beef1 #f to #g lbs42 water1 #e quarts3 stewed down 7with vegetables1 c47 till reduced nearly half4 ,boned half-head with skin on stewed in stock3 #a-a_/b hour4 ,soup3 stock1 #e pints2 tongue1 skin of head1 and part of flesh3 #ae to #dj minutes1 or more if not quite tender4 ,rice-flour1 #f to #h oz42 cayenne1 quarter-teaspoonful2 mace1 twice as much2 mushroom catsup1 #a_/b wineglassful3 #aj minutes4 ,sherry1 #b wineglassesful1 forcemeat-balls1 #bj to #cj4 ,,soup ,,des ,,galles4 ,add to the liquor in which a knuckle of veal has been boiled the usual time for table as much water as will make altogether six quarts1 and stew in it gently sixpennyworth of beef bones and sixpennyworth of pork-rinds4 ,when the boiling is somewhat advanced1 throw in the skin of a calf's head2 and in an hour afterwards1 or when it is quite tender1 lift it out and set it aside till wanted4 ,slice and fry four large mild onions1 stick into another eight or ten cloves1 and put them into the soup after it has stewed from six to seven hours4 ,continue the boiling for two or three hours longer1 then strain off the soup1 and let it remain until perfectly cold4 ,when wanted for table1 take it quite clear from the fat and sediment1 and heat it anew with the skin of the calf's head cut into dice1 three ounces of loaf sugar1 four tablespoonsful of strained lemon-juice1 two of soy1 and three wineglassesful of sherry2 give it one boil1 skim it well1 and serve it as hot as possible4 ,salt must be added to it sparingly in the first instance on account of the soy3 a proper seasoning of cayenne or pepper must not1 of course1 be omitted4 ,this receipt was given to the writer1 some years since1 as a perfectly successful imitation of a soup which was then1 and is still1 she believes1 selling in ,london at six shillings the quart4 ,never having tasted the original ,soupe des ,galles she cannot say how far it is a correct one2 but she had it tested with great exactness when she received it first1 and found the result a very good soup prepared at an extremely moderate cost4 ,the pork-rinds1 when long boiled1 afford a strong and flavourless jelly1 which might be advantageously used to give consistence to other soups4 ,they may be procured during the winter1 usually at the butcher's1 but if not1 at the porkshops3 they should be carefully washed before they are put into the soup-pot4 ,when a knuckle of veal cannot conveniently be had1 a pound or two of the neck and a morsel of scrag of mutton may instead be boiled down with the beef-bones2 or two or three pounds of neck or shin of beef3 but these will1 of course1 augment the cost of the soup4 ,,potage ,,la ,,reine4 7,a ,delicate ,white ,soup47 ,should there be no strong veal broth1 nor any white stock in readiness1 stew four pounds of the scrag or knuckle of veal1 with a thick slice or two of lean ham1 a faggot of sweet herbs1 two moderate-sized carrots1 and the same of onions1 a large blade of mace1 and a half-teaspoonful of white peppercorns1 in four quarts of water until reduced to about five pints2 then strain the liquor1 and set it by until the fat can be taken entirely from it4 ,skin and wash thoroughly1 a couple of fine fowls1 or three young pullets1 and take away the dark spongy substance which adheres to the insides2 pour the veal broth to them1 and boil them gently from three quarters of an hour to an hour2 then lift them out1 take off all the white flesh1 mince it small1 pound it to the finest paste1 and cover it with a basin until wanted for use4 ,in the mean time let the bodies of the fowls be put again into the stock1 and stewed gently for an hour and a half2 add as much salt and cayenne1 as will season the soup properly1 strain it off when sufficiently boiled1 and let it cool2 skim off every particle of fat2 steep1 in a small portion of it1 which should be boiling1 four ounces of the crumb of light stale bread sliced thin1 and when it has simmered a few minutes1 drain or wring the moisture from it in a clean cloth1 add it to the flesh of the chickens1 and pound them together until they are perfectly blended2 then pour the stock to them in very small quantities at first1 and mix them smoothly with it2 pass the whole through a sieve or tammy1 heat it in a clean stewpan1 stir to it from a pint to a pint and a half of boiling cream1 and add1 should it not be sufficiently thick1 an ounce and a half of arrow-root1 quite free from lumps1 and moistened with a few spoonsful of cold milk or stock4 ,,remark4--,this soup1 and the two which immediately follow it1 if made with care and great nicety by the exact directions given here for them1 will be found very refined and excellent4 ,for stock3 veal1 #d lbs42 ham1 #f oz42 water1 #d quarts2 bunch of herbs2 carrots1 #b2 onions1 #b2 mace1 large blade2 peppercorns1 #a_/b teaspoonful2 salt3 #e hours4 ,fowls1 #b1 or pullets1 #c3 #c_/d to #a hour2 stewed afterwards #a to #a-a_/b hour4 ,crumb of bread1 #d oz42 cream1 #a to #a-a_/b pint2 arrow-root 7if needed71 #a-a_/b oz4 ,obs4--,some cooks pound with the bread and chickens the yolks of three or four hard-boiled eggs1 but these improve neither the colour nor the flavour of the potage4 ,,white ,,oyster ,,soup4 7or ,oyster ,soup la ,reine47 ,when the oysters are small1 from two to three dozens for each pint of soup should be prepared1 but this number can of course be diminished or increased at pleasure4 ,let the fish 7which should be finely conditioned natives7 be opened carefully2 pour the liquor from them1 and strain it2 rinse them in it well1 and beard them2 strain the liquor a second time through a lawn sieve or folded muslin1 and pour it again over the oysters4 ,take a portion from two quarts of the palest veal stock1 and simmer the beards in it from twenty to thirty minutes4 ,heat the soup1 flavour it with mace and cayenne1 and strain the stock from the oyster-beards into it4 ,plump the fish in their own liquor1 but do not let them boil2 pour the liquor to the soup1 and add to it a pint of boiling cream2 put the oysters into the tureen1 dish the soup1 and send it to table quickly4 ,should any thickening be required1 stir briskly to the stock an ounce and a half of arrow-root entirely free from lumps1 and carefully mixed with a little milk or cream2 or1 in lieu of this1 when a rich soup is liked1 thicken it with four ounces of fresh butter well blended with three of flour4 ,oysters1 #h to #ab dozens2 pale veal stock1 #b quarts2 cream1 #a pint2 thickening1 #a oz4 arrow-root1 or butter1 #d oz41 flour1 #c oz4 ,,rabbit ,,soup ,,la ,,reine4 ,wash and soak thoroughly three young rabbits1 put them whole into the soup-pot1 and pour on them seven pints of cold water or of clear veal broth2 when they have stewed gently about three quarters of an hour lift them out1 and take off the flesh of the backs1 with a little from the legs should there not be half a pound of the former2 strip off the skin1 mince the meat very small1 and pound it to the smoothest paste2 cover it from the air1 and set it by4 ,put back into the soup the bodies of the rabbits1 with two mild onions of moderate size1 a head of celery1 three carrots1 a faggot of savoury herbs1 two blades of mace1 a half-teaspoonful of peppercorns1 and an ounce of salt4 ,stew the whole softly three hours2 strain it off1 let it stand to settle1 pour it gently from the sediment1 put from four to five pints into a clean stewpan1 and mix it very gradually while hot with the pounded rabbit-flesh2 this must be done with care1 for if the liquid be not added in very small portions at first1 the meat will gather into lumps and will not easily be worked smooth afterwards4 ,add as much pounded mace and cayenne as will season the soup pleasantly1 and pass it through a coarse but very clean sieve2 wipe out the stewpan1 put back the soup into it1 and stir in when it boils1 a pint and a quarter of good cream#cb mixed with a tablespoonful of the best arrow-root3 salt1 if needed1 should be thrown in previously4 ,footnote #cb3 ,we give this receipt exactly as we had it first compounded1 but less cream and rather more arrow-root might be used for it1 and would adapt it better to the economist4 ,young rabbits1 #c2 water1 or clear veal broth1 #g pints3 #c_/d of an hour4 ,remains of rabbits2 onions1 #b2 celery1 #a head2 carrots1 #c2 savoury herbs2 mace1 #b blades2 white peppercorns1 a half-teaspoonful2 salt1 #a oz43 #c hours4 ,soup1 #d to #e pints2 pounded rabbit-flesh1 #h oz42 salt1 mace1 and cayenne1 if needed2 cream1 #a-a_/d pint2 arrow-root1 #a tablespoonful 7or #a-a_/b ounce74 ,,brown ,,rabbit ,,soup4 ,cut down into joints1 flour1 and fry lightly1 two full grown1 or three young rabbits2 add to them three onions of moderate size1 also fried to a clear brown2 on these pour gradually seven pints of boiling water1 throw in a large teaspoonful of salt1 clear off all the scum with care as it rises1 and then put to the soup a faggot of parsley1 four not very large carrots1 and a small teaspoonful of peppercorns2 boil the whole very softly from five hours to five and a half2 add more salt if needed1 strain off the soup1 let it cool sufficiently for the fat to be skimmed clean from it1 heat it afresh1 and send it to table with sippets of fried bread4 ,spice1 with a thickening of rice-flour1 or of wheaten flour browned in the oven1 and mixed with a spoonful or two of very good mushroom catsup1 or of ,harvey's sauce1 can be added at pleasure to the above1 with a few drops of eschalot-wine1 or vinegar2 but the simple receipt will be found extremely good without them4 ,rabbits1 #b full grown1 or #c small2 onions fried1 #c middling-sized2 water1 #g pints2 salt1 #a large teaspoonful or more2 carrots1 #d1 a faggot of parsley2 peppercorns1 #a small teaspoonful3 #e to #e-a_/b hours4 ,,superlative ,,hare ,,soup4 ,cut down a hare into joints1 and put into a soup-pot1 or large stewpan1 with about a pound of lean ham1 in thick slices1 three moderate-sized mild onions1 three blades of mace1 a faggot of thyme1 sweet marjoram1 and parsley1 and about three quarts of good beef stock4 ,let it stew very gently for full two hours from the time of its first beginning to boil1 and more1 if the hare be old4 ,strain the soup and pound together very fine the slices of ham and all the flesh of the back1 legs1 and shoulders of the hare1 and put this meat into a stewpan with the liquor in which it was boiled1 the crumb of two ,french rolls1 and half a pint of port wine4 ,set it on the stove to simmer twenty minutes2 then rub it through a sieve1 place it again on the stove till very hot1 but do not let it boil3 season it with salt and cayenne1 and send it to table directly4 ,hare1 #a2 ham1 #ab to #af oz42 onions1 #c to #f2 mace1 #c blades2 faggot of savoury herbs2 beef stock1 #c quarts3 #b hours4 ,crumb of #b rolls2 port wine1 #a_/b pint2 little salt and cayenne3 #bj minutes4 ,a ,,less ,,expensive ,,hare ,,soup4#cc ,footnote #cc3 ,the remains of a roasted hare1 with the forcemeat and gravy1 are admirably calculated for making this soup4 ,pour on two pounds of neck or shin of beef and a hare well washed and carved into joints1 one gallon of cold water1 and when it boils and has been thoroughly skimmed1 add an ounce and a half of salt1 two onions1 one large head of celery1 three moderate-sized carrots1 a teaspoonful of black peppercorns1 and six cloves4 ,let these stew very gently for three hours1 or longer1 should the hare not be perfectly tender4 ,then take up the principal joints1 cut the meat from them1 mince1 and pound it to a fine paste1 with the crumb of two penny rolls 7or two ounces of the crumb of household bread7 which has been soaked in a little of the boiling soup1 and then pressed very dry in a cloth2 strain1 and mix smoothly with it the stock from the remainder of the hare2 pass the soup through a strainer1 season it with cayenne1 and serve it when at the point of boiling2 if not sufficiently thick1 add to it a tablespoonful of arrow-root moistened with a little cold broth1 and let the soup simmer for an instant afterwards4 ,two or three glasses of port wine1 and two dozens of small forcemeat-balls1 may be added to this soup with good effect4 ,beef1 #b lbs42 hare1 #a2 water1 #a gallon2 salt1 #a-a_/b oz42 onions1 #b2 celery1 #a head2 carrots1 #c2 bunch of savoury herbs2 peppercorns1 #a teaspoonful2 cloves1 #f3 #c hours1 or more4 ,bread1 #b oz42 cayenne1 arrow-root 7if needed71 #a tablespoonful4 ,,economical ,,turkey ,,soup4 ,the remains of a roast turkey1 even after they have supplied the usual mince and broil1 will furnish a tureen of cheap and excellent soup with the addition of a little fresh meat4 ,cut up rather small two pounds of the neck or other lean joint of beef1 and pour to it five pints of cold water4 ,heat these very slowly2 skim the liquor when it begins to boil1 and add to it an ounce of salt1 a small1 mild onion 7the proportion of all the vegetables may be much increased when they are liked71 a little celery1 and the flesh and bones of the turkey1 with any gravy or forcemeat that may have been left with them4 ,let these boil gently for about three hours2 then strain off the soup through a coarse sieve or cullender1 and let it remain until the fat can be entirely removed from it4 ,it may then be served merely well thickened with rice#cd which has previously been boiled very dry as for currie1 and stewed in it for about ten minutes2 and seasoned with one large heaped tablespoonful or more of minced parsley1 and as much salt and pepper or cayenne as it may require4 ,this1 as the reader will perceive1 is a somewhat frugal preparation1 by which the residue of a roast turkey may be turned to economical account2 but it is a favourite soup at some good ,english tables1 where its very simplicity is a recommendation4 ,it can always be rendered more expensive1 and of richer quality1 by the addition of lean ham or smoked beef1#ce a larger weight of fresh meat1 and catsup or other store-sauces4 ,footnote #cd3 ,it will be desirable to prepare six ounces of rice1 and to use as much of it as may be required1 the reduction of the stock not being always equal1 and the same weight of rice therefore not being in all cases sufficient4 ,rice-flour can be substituted for the whole grain and used as directed for ,rice ,flour ,soup1 page #ae4 ,footnote #ce3 ,as we have stated in our chapter of ,foreign ,cookery1 the ,jewish smoked beef1 of which we have given particulars there1 imparts a superior flavour to soups and gravies2 and it is an economical addition to them1 as a small portion of it will much heighten their savour4 ,turkey soup la reine is made precisely like the ,potage la ,reine of fowls or pullets1 of which the receipt will be found in another part of this chapter4 ,,pheasant ,,soup4 ,half roast a brace of well-kept pheasants1 and flour them rather thickly when they are first laid to the fire4 ,as soon as they are nearly cold take all the flesh from the breasts1 put it aside1 and keep it covered from the air2 carve down the remainder of the birds into joints1 bruise the bodies thoroughly1 and stew the whole gently from two to three hours in five pints of strong beef broth2 then strain off the soup1 and press as much of it as possible from the pheasants4 ,let it cool2 and in the mean time strip the skins from the breasts1 mince them small1 and pound them to the finest paste1 with half as much fresh butter1 and half of dry crumbs of bread2 season these well with cayenne1 sufficiently with salt1 and moderately with pounded mace and grated nutmeg1 and add1 when their flavour is liked1 three or four eschalots previously boiled tender in a little of the soup1 left till cold1 and minced before they are put into the mortar4 ,moisten the mixture with the yolks of two or three eggs1 roll it into small balls of equal size1 dust a little flour upon them1 skim all the fat from the soup1 heat it in a clean stewpan1 and when it boils throw them in and poach them from ten to twelve minutes1 but first ascertain that the soup is properly seasoned with salt and cayenne4 ,we have recommended that the birds should be partially roasted before they are put into the soup-pot1 because their flavour is much finer when this is done than when they are simply stewed2 they should be placed rather near to a brisk fire that they may be quickly browned on the surface without losing any of their juices1 and the basting should be constant4 ,a slight thickening of rice-flour and arrow-root can be added to the soup at pleasure1 and the forcemeat-balls may be fried and dropped into the tureen when they are preferred so4 ,half a dozen eschalots lightly browned in butter1 and a small head of celery1 may also be thrown in after the birds begin to stew1 but nothing should be allowed to prevail ever the natural flavour of the game itself2 and this should be observed equally with other kinds1 as partridges1 grouse1 and venison4 ,pheasants1 #b4 roasted #bj to #be minutes4 ,strong beef broth1 or stock1 #e pints3 #b to #c hours4 ,forcemeat-balls3 breasts of pheasants1 half as much dry bread-crumbs and of butter1 salt1 mace1 cayenne2 yolks of #b or #c eggs 7and at choice #c or #d boiled eschalots74 ,obs4--,the stock may be made of six pounds of shin of beef1 and four quarts of water reduced to within a pint of half4 ,an onion1 a large carrot1 a bunch of savoury herbs1 and some salt and spice should be added to it3 one pound of neck of veal or of beef will improve it4 ,,another ,,pheasant ,,soup4 ,boil down the half-roasted birds as directed in the foregoing receipt1 and add to the soup1 after it is strained and re-heated1 the breasts pounded to the finest paste with nearly as much bread soaked in a little of the stock and pressed very dry2 for the proper manner of mixing them1 see ,potage la ,reine1 page #bi4 ,half a pint of small mushrooms cleaned as for pickling1 then sliced rather thickly1 and stewed from ten to fifteen minutes without browning1 in an ounce or two of fresh butter1 with a slight seasoning of mace1 cayenne1 and salt1 then turned into the mortar and pounded with the other ingredients1 will be found an excellent addition to the soup1 which must be passed through a strainer after the breasts are added to it1 brought to the point of boiling1 and served with sippets la ,reine1 or with others simply fried of a delicate brown and well dried4 ,we have occasionally had a small quantity of delicious soup made with the remains of birds which have been served at table2 and where game is frequently dressed1 the cook1 by reserving all the fragments for the purpose1 and combining different kinds1 may often send up a good tureen of such1 made at a very slight cost4 ,pheasants1 #b2 stock1 #e pints2 bread soaked in gravy 7see ,panada1 ,chapter ,,viii71 nearly as much in bulk as the flesh of the breasts of the birds2 mushrooms1 #a_/b pint1 stewed in one or two oz4 of butter #aj to #ae minutes1 then pounded with flesh of pheasants4 ,salt1 cayenne and mace1 to season properly4 ,,partridge ,,soup4 ,this is1 we think1 superior in flavour to the pheasant soup4 ,it should be made in precisely the same manner1 but three birds allowed for it instead of two4 ,grouse and partridges together will make a still finer one2 the remains of roast grouse even1 added to a brace of partridges1 will produce a very good effect4 ,,mullagatawny ,,soup4 ,slice1 and fry gently in some good butter three or four large onions1 and when they are of a fine equal amber-colour lift them out with a slice and put them into a deep stewpot1 or large thick saucepan2 throw a little more butter into the pan1 and then brown lightly in it a young rabbit1 or the prime joints of two1 or a fowl cut down small1 and floured4 ,when the meat is sufficiently browned1 lay it upon the onions1 pour gradually to them a quart of good boiling stock1 and stew it gently from three quarters of an hour to an hour2 then take it out1 and pass the stock and onions through a fine sieve or strainer4 ,add to them two pints and a half more of stock1 pour the whole into a clean pan1 and when it boils stir to it two tablespoonsful of currie-powder mixed with nearly as much of browned flour1 and a little cold water or broth1 put in the meat1 and simmer it for twenty minutes or longer should it not be perfectly tender1 add the juice of a small lemon just before it is dished1 serve it very hot1 and send boiled rice to table with it4 ,part of a pickled mango cut into strips about the size of large straws1 is sometimes served in this soup1 after being stewed in it for a few minutes2 a little of the pickle itself should be added with it4 ,we have given here the sort of receipt commonly used in ,england for mullagatawny1 but a much finer soup may be made by departing from it in some respects4 ,the onions1 of which the proportion may be increased or diminished to the taste1 after being fried slowly and with care1 that no part should be overdone1 may be stewed for an hour in the first quart of stock with three or four ounces of grated cocoa-nut1#cf which will impart a rich mellow flavour to the whole4 ,after all of this that can be rubbed through the sieve has been added to as much more stock as will be required for the soup1 and the currie-powder and thickening have been boiled in it for twenty minutes1 the flesh of part of a calf's head1#cg previously stewed almost tender1 and cut as for mock turtle1 with a sweetbread also parboiled or stewed in broth1 and divided into inch-squares1 will make an admirable mullagatawny1 if simmered in the stock until they have taken the flavour of the currie-seasoning4 ,the flesh of a couple of calves' feet1 with a sweetbread or two1 may1 when more convenient1 be substituted for the head4 ,a large cupful of thick cream1 first mixed and boiled with a teaspoonful of flour or arrow-root to prevent its curdling1 and stirred into the soup before the lemon-juice1 will enrich and improve it much4 ,footnote #cf3 ,that our readers to whom this ingredient in soups is new1 may not be misled1 we must repeat here1 that although the cocoa-nut when it is young and fresh imparts a peculiarly rich flavour to any preparation1 it is not liked by all eaters1 and is better omitted when the taste of a party is not known1 and only one soup is served4 ,footnote #cg3 ,the scalp or skin only of a calf's head will make excellent mullagatawny1 with good broth for stock2 and many kinds of shell-fish also4 ,rabbit1 #a1 or the best joints of1 #b1 or fowl1 #a2 large onions1 #d to #f2 stock1 #a quart3 #c_/d to #a hour4 #b-a_/b pints more of stock2 currie-powder1 #b heaped tablespoonsful1 with #b of browned flour2 meat and all simmered together #bj minutes or more2 juice of lemon1 #a small2 or part of pickled mango stewed in the soup #c to #d minutes4 ,or1--onions1 #c to #f2 cocoa-nut1 #c to #d oz42 stock1 #a quart2 stewed #a hour4 ,stock1 #c pints 7in addition to the first quart72 currie-powder and thickening each1 #b large tablespoonsful3 #bj minutes4 ,flesh of part of calf s head and sweetbread1 #ae minutes or more4 ,thick cream1 #a cupful2 flour or arrow-root1 #a teaspoonful2 boiled #b minutes1 and stirred to the soup4 ,chili vinegar1 #a tablespoonful1 or lemon-juice1 #b tablespoonsful4 ,obs4 #a4--,the brain of the calf's head stewed for twenty minutes in a little of the stock1 then rubbed through a sieve1 diluted gradually with more of the stock1 and added as thickening to the soup1 will be found an admirable substitute for part of the flour4 ,obs4 #b4--,three or four pounds of a breast of veal1 or an equal weight of mutton1 free from bone and fat1 may take the place of rabbits or fowls in this soup1 for a plain dinner4 ,the veal should be cut into squares of an inch and a half1 or into strips of an inch in width1 and two in length2 and the mutton should be trimmed down in the same way1 or into very small cutlets4 ,obs4 #c4--;,for an elegant table1 the joints of rabbit or of fowl should always be boned before they are added to the soup1 for which1 in this case1 a couple of each will be needed for a single tureen1 as all the inferior joints must be rejected4 ,,to ,,boil ,,rice ,,for ,,mullagatawny ,,soups1 ,,or ,,for ,,curries4 ,the ,patna1 or small-grained rice1 which is not so good as the ,carolina1 for the general purposes of cookery1 ought to be served with currie4 ,first take out the unhusked grains1 then wash the rice in several waters1 and put it into a large quantity of cold water2 bring it gently to boil1 keeping it uncovered1 and boil it softly for fifteen minutes1 when it will be perfectly tender1 and every grain will remain distinct4 ,throw it into a large cullender1 and let it drain for ten minutes near the fire2 should it not then appear quite dry1 turn it into a dish1 and set it for a short time into a gentle oven1 or let it steam in a clean saucepan near the fire4 ,it should neither be stirred1 except just at first1 to prevent its lumping while it is still quite hard1 nor touched with either fork or spoon2 the stewpan may be shaken occasionally1 should the rice seem to require it1 and it should be thrown lightly from the cullender upon the dish4 ,a couple of minutes before it is done1 throw in some salt1 and from the time of its beginning to boil remove the scum as it rises4 ,patna rice1 #a_/b lb42 cold water1 #b quarts3 boiled slowly1 #ae minutes4 ,salt1 #a large teaspoonful4 ,obs4--,this1 of all the modes of boiling rice which we have tried1 and they have been very numerous1 is indisputably the best4 ,the ,carolina rice answers well dressed in the same manner1 but requires four or five minutes longer boiling3 it should never be served until it is quite tender4 ,one or two minutes1 more or less1 will sometimes1 from the varying quality of the grain1 be requisite to render it tender4 ,,good ,,vegetable ,,mullagatawny4 ,dissolve in a large stewpan or thick iron saucepan1 four ounces of butter1 and when it is on the point of browning1 throw in four large mild onions sliced1 three pounds weight of young vegetable marrow cut in large dice and cleared from the skin and seeds1 four large or six moderate-sized cucumbers1 pared1 split1 and emptied likewise of their seeds1 and from three to six large acid apples1 according to the taste2 shake the pan often1 and stew these over a gentle fire until they are tolerably tender2 then strew lightly over and mix well amongst them1 three heaped tablespoonsful of mild currie powder1 with nearly a third as much of salt1 and let the vegetables stew from twenty to thirty minutes longer2 then pour to them gradually sufficient boiling water 7broth or stock if preferred7 to just cover them1 and when they are reduced almost to a pulp press the whole through a hair-sieve with a wooden spoon1 and heat it in a clean stewpan1 with as much additional liquid as will make two quarts with that which was first added4 ,give any flavouring that may be needed1 whether of salt1 cayenne1 or acid1 and serve the soup extremely hot4 ,should any butter appear on the surface1 let it be carefully skimmed off1 or stir in a small dessertspoonful of arrow-root 7smoothly mixed with a little cold broth or water7 to absorb it4 ,rice may be served with this soup at pleasure1 but as it is of the consistence of winter peas soup1 it scarcely requires any addition4 ,the currie powder may be altogether omitted for variety1 and the whole converted into a plain vegetable potage2 or it may be rendered one of high savour1 by browning all the vegetables lightly1 and adding to them rich brown stock4 ,tomatas1 when in season1 may be substituted for the apples1 after being divided1 and freed from their seeds4 ,butter1 #d oz42 vegetable marrow1 pared and scooped1 #c lbs42 large mild onions1 #d2 large cucumbers1 #d2 or middling-sized1 #f2 apples1 or large tomatas1 #c to #f2 #cj to #dj minutes4 ,mild currie-powder1 #c heaped tablespoonsful2 salt1 one small tablespoonful #bj to #cb minutes4 ,water1 broth1 or good stock1 #b quarts4 ,,cucumber ,,soup4 ,pare1 split1 and empty from eight to twenty#ch fine1 well grown1 but not old cucumbers1--those which have the fewest seeds are best for the purpose2 throw a little salt over them1 and leave them for an hour to drain1 then put them with the white part only of a couple of mild onions into a deep stewpan or delicately clean saucepan1 cover them nearly half an inch with pale but good veal stock1 and stew them gently until they are perfectly tender1 which will be in from three quarters of an hour to an hour and a quarter2 work the whole through a hair-sieve1 and add to it as much more stock as may be needed to make the quantity of soup required for table2 and as the cucumbers1 from their watery nature1 will thicken it but little1 stir to it when it boils1 as much arrow-root1 rice-flour1 or tous les mois 7see page #a71 as will bring it to a good consistence2 add from half to a whole pint of boiling cream1 and serve the soup immediately4 ,salt and cayenne sufficient to season it1 should be thrown over the cucumbers while they are stewing4 ,the yolks of six or eight eggs1 mixed with a dessertspoonful of chili vinegar1 may be used for this soup instead of cream2 three dessertspoonsful of minced parsley may then be strewed into it a couple of minutes before they are added3 it must not1 of course1 be allowed to boil after they are stirred in4 ,footnote #ch3 ,this is a great disparity of numbers2 but some regard must be had to expense1 where the vegetable cannot be obtained with facility4 ,,spring ,,soup ,,and ,,soup ,,la ,,julienne4 ,throw into three quarts of strong clear broth1 or shin of beef stock1 or of consomm1 half a pint each of turnips and carrots prepared by the directions of page #bj1 or turned into any other shape that may be preferred1 with rather less of the solid part of some white celery stems1 and of leeks or of very mild onions#ci mixed4 ,the latter must1 if used1 be sliced1 drawn into rings1 and divided into slight shreds4 ,when these have simmered from twenty to thirty minutes1 add the leaves of one or two lettuces and a few of sorrel1 trimmed or torn1 about the size of half-a-crown4 ,continue the gentle boiling until these are tender1 and add at the moment of serving half a pint of asparagus-points boiled very green1 and as many ,french beans cut into small lozenges1 and also boiled apart2 or substitute green peas for these last4 ,footnote #ci3 ,only a very subdued flavour of these is1 we think1 admissible for a delicate vegetable soup of any kind4 ,for the ,julienne soup1 first stew the carrots1 c4 tolerably tender in a couple of ounces of butter2 pour the stock boiling to them2 skim off all the fat from the surface1 and finish as above4 ,sprigs of chervil1 spinach 7boiled apart1 and sparingly added71 green onions1 very small tufts of brocoli or cauliflower1 may all be used in these soups at choice4 ,both the kind and the proportion of the vegetables can be regulated entirely by the taste4 ,bread stamped out with a very small round cutter1 and dried a pale brown in the oven1 is added sometimes to this spring soup1 but is1 we should say1 no improvement4 ,winter vegetables should have three or four minutes' previous boiling 7or blanching7 before they are put into the soup4 ,,an ,,excellent ,,green ,,peas ,,soup4 ,take at their fullest size1 but before they are of bad colour or worm-eaten1 three pints of fine large peas1 and boil them as for table 7see ,chapter ,,xvii47 with half a teaspoonful of carbonate of soda in the water1 that they may be very green4 ,when they are quite tender1 drain them well1 and put them into a couple of quarts of boiling1 pale1 but good beef or veal stock1 and stew them in it gently for half an hour2 then work the whole through a fine hair-sieve1 put it into a clean pan and bring it to the point of boiling2 add salt1 should it be needed1 and a small teaspoonful of pounded sugar2 clear off the scum entirely1 and serve the soup as hot as possible4 ,an elegant variety of it is made by adding a half pint more of stock to the peas1 and about three quarters of a pint of asparagus points1 boiled apart1 and well drained before they are thrown into it1 which should be done only the instant before it is sent to table4 ,green peas1 #c pints3 boiled #be to #cj minutes1 or more4 ,veal or beef stock1 #b quarts 7with peas73 #a_/b an hour4 ,sugar1 one small teaspoonful2 salt1 if needed4 ,obs4--,when there is no stock at hand1 four or five pounds of shin of beef boiled slowly down with three quarts of water to two1 and well seasoned with savoury herbs1 young carrots1 and onions1 will serve instead quite well4 ,a thick slice of lean1 undressed ham1 or of ,jewish beef1 would improve it4 ,should a common ,english peas soup be wished for1 make it somewhat thinner than the one above1 and add to it1 just before it is dished1 from half to three quarters of a pint of young peas boiled tender and well drained4 ,,green ,,peas ,,soup1 ,,without ,,meat4 ,boil tender in three quarts of water1 with the proportions of salt and soda directed for them in ,chapter ,,xvii41 one quart of large1 full grown peas2 drain and pound them in a mortar1 mix with them gradually five pints of the liquor in which they were cooked1 put the whole again over the fire1 and stew it gently for a quarter of an hour2 then press it through a hair-sieve4 ,in the mean time1 simmer in from three to four ounces of butter1#dj three large1 or four small cucumbers pared and sliced1 the hearts of three or four lettuces shred small1 from one to four onions1 according to the taste1 cut thin1 a few small sprigs of parsley1 and1 when the flavour is liked1 a dozen leaves or more of mint roughly chopped3 keep these stirred over a gentle fire for nearly or quite an hour1 and strew over them a half-teaspoonful of salt1 and a good seasoning of white pepper or cayenne4 ,when they are partially done drain them from the butter1 put them into the strained stock1 and let the whole boil gently until all the butter has been thrown to the surface1 and been entirely cleared from it2 then throw in from half to three quarters of a pint of young peas boiled as for eating1 and serve the soup immediately4 ,footnote #dj3 ,some persons prefer the vegetables slowly fried to a fine brown1 then drained on a sieve1 and well dried before the fire2 but though more savoury so1 they do not improve the colour of the soup4 ,when more convenient1 the peas1 with a portion of the liquor1 may be rubbed through a sieve1 instead of being crushed in a mortar2 and when the colour of the soup is not so much a consideration as the flavour1 they may be slowly stewed until perfectly tender in four ounces of good butter1 instead of being boiled3 a few green onions1 and some branches of parsley may then be added to them4 ,green peas1 #a quart2 water1 #e pints3 cucumbers1 #c to #f2 lettuces1 #c or #d2 onions1 #a to #d2 little parsley2 mint 7if liked71 #ab to #bj leaves2 butter1 #c to #d oz42 salt1 half-teaspoonful2 seasoning of white pepper or cayenne3 #ej to #fj minutes4 ,young peas1 #a_/b to #c_/d of a pint4 ,obs4--,we must repeat that the peas for these soups must not be old1 as when they are so1 their fine sweet flavour is entirely lost1 and the dried ones would have almost as good an effect2 nor should they be of inferior kinds4 ,freshly gathered marrowfats1 taken at nearly or quite their full growth1 will give the best quality of soup4 ,we are credibly informed1 but cannot assert it on our own authority1 that it is often made for expensive tables in early spring1 with the young tender plants or halms of the peas1 when they are about a foot in height4 ,they are cut off close to the ground1 like small salad1 we are told1 then boiled and pressed through a strainer1 and mixed with the stock4 ,the flavour is affirmed to be excellent4 ,a ,,cheap ,,green ,,peas ,,soup4 ,wash very clean and throw into an equal quantity of boiling water salted as for peas1 three quarts of the shells1 and in from twenty to thirty minutes1 when they will be quite tender1 turn the whole into a large strainer1 and press the pods strongly with a wooden spoon4 ,measure the liquor1 put two quarts of it into a clean deep saucepan1 and when it boils add to it a quart of full grown peas1 two or even three large cucumbers1 as many moderate-sized lettuces freed from the coarser leaves and cut small1 one large onion 7or more if liked7 sliced extremely thin and stewed for half an hour in a morsel of butter before it is added to the soup1 or gently fried without being allowed to brown2 a branch or two of parsley1 and1 when the flavour is liked1 a dozen leaves of mint4 ,stew these softly for an hour1 with the addition of a small teaspoonful1 or a larger quantity if required of salt1 and a good seasoning of fine white pepper or of cayenne2 then work the whole of the vegetables with the soup through a hair-sieve1 heat it afresh1 and send it to table with a dish of small fried sippets4 ,the colour will not be so bright as that of the more expensive soups which precede it1 but it will be excellent in flavour4 ,pea-shells1 #c quarts2 water1 #c quarts3 #bj to #cj minutes4 ,liquor from these1 #b quarts2 full-sized green peas1 #a quart2 large cucumbers1 #b or #c2 lettuces1 #c2 onion1 #a 7or more72 little parsley2 mint1 #ab leaves2 seasoning of salt and pepper or cayenne3 stewed #a hour4 ,obs4--,the cucumbers should be pared1 quartered1 and freed from the seeds before they are added to the soup4 ,the peas1 as we have said already more than once1 should not be old1 but taken at their full growth1 before they lose their colour3 the youngest of the shells ought to be selected for the liquor4 ,,rich ,,peas ,,soup4 ,soak a quart of fine yellow split peas for a night1 drain them well1 and put them into a large soup-pot with five quarts of good brown gravy stock2 and when they have boiled gently for half an hour1 add to the soup three onions1 as many carrots1 and a turnip or two1 all sliced and fried carefully in butter2 stew the whole softly until the peas are reduced to pulp1 then add as much salt and cayenne as may be needed to season it well1 give it two or three minutes' boil1 and pass it through a sieve1 pressing the vegetables with it4 ,put into a clean saucepan as much as may be required for table1 add a little fresh stock to it should it be too thick1 and reduce it by quick boiling if too thin2 throw in the white part of some fresh celery sliced a quarter of an inch thick1 and when this is tender send the soup quickly to table with a dish of small fried or toasted sippets4 ,a dessertspoonful or more of currie-powder greatly improves peas soup3 it should be smoothly mixed with a few spoonsful of it1 and poured to the remainder when this first begins to boil after having been strained4 ,split peas1 #a quart3 soaked one night4 ,good brown gravy soup1 #e quarts3 #cj minutes4 ,onions and carrots browned in butter1 #c of each2 turnips1 #b3 #b-a_/b to #c-a_/b hours4 ,cayenne and salt as needed4 ,soup1 #e pints2 celery1 sliced1 #a large or #b small heads3 #bj minutes4 ,obs4--,when more convenient1 six pounds of neck of beef well scored and equally and carefully browned1 may be boiled gently with the peas and fried vegetables in a gallon of water 7which should be poured to them boiling7 for four or five hours4 ,,common ,,peas ,,soup4 ,wash well a quart of good split peas1 and float off such as remain on the surface of the water2 soak them for one night1 and boil them with a bit of soda the size of a filbert in just sufficient water to allow them to break to a mash4 ,put them into from three to four quarts of good beef broth1 and stew them in it gently for an hour2 then work the whole through a sieve1 heat afresh as much as may be required for table1 season it with salt and cayenne or common pepper1 clear it perfectly from scum1 and send it to table with fried or toasted bread4 ,celery sliced and stewed in it as directed for the rich peas soup1 will be found a great improvement to this4 ,peas1 #a quart3 soaked #a night2 boiled in #b quarts or rather more of water1 #b to #b-a_/b hours4 ,beef broth1 #c to #d quarts3 #a hour4 ,salt and cayenne or pepper as needed3 #c minutes4 ,,peas ,,soup ,,without ,,meat4 ,to a pint of peas1 freed from all that are worm-eaten1 and well washed1 put five pints of cold water1 and boil them tolerably tender2 then add a couple of onions 7more or less according to the taste71 a couple of fine carrots grated1 one large or two moderate-sized turnips sliced1 all gently fried brown in butter2 half a teaspoonful of black pepper1 and three times as much of salt4 ,stew these softly1 keeping them often stirred1 until the vegetables are sufficiently tender to pass through a sieve2 then rub the whole through one1 put it into a clean pan1 and when it boils throw in a sliced head of celery1 heighten the seasoning if needful1 and in twenty minutes serve the soup as hot as possible1 with a dish of fried or toasted bread cut into dice4 ,a little chili vinegar can be added when liked3 a larger proportion of vegetables also may be boiled down with the peas at pleasure4 ,weak broth1 or the liquor in which a joint has been boiled1 can be substituted for the water2 but the soup is very palatable as we have given the receipt for it4 ,some persons like it flavoured with a little mushroom catsup4 ,all peas soup is rendered more wholesome by the addition of a small quantity of currie-paste or powder4 ,split peas1 #a pint2 water1 #e pints3 #b hours or more4 ,onions1 #b2 carrots1 #b2 large turnip1 #a2 pepper1 #a_/b teaspoonful2 salt1 #a-a_/b teaspoonful3 #a to #a-a_/b hour4 ,celery1 #a head3 #bj minutes4 ,,ox-,,tail ,,soup4 ,an inexpensive and very nutritious soup may be made of ox-tails1 but it will be insipid in flavour without the addition of a little ham1 knuckle of bacon1 or a pound or two of other meat4 ,wash and soak three tails1 pour on them a gallon of cold water1 let them be brought gradually to boil1 throw in an ounce and a half of salt1 and clear off the scum carefully as soon as it forms upon the surface2 when it ceases to rise1 add four moderate-sized carrots1 from two to four onions1 according to the taste1 a large faggot of savoury herbs1 a head of celery1 a couple of turnips1 six or eight cloves1 and a half-teaspoonful of peppercorns4 ,stew these gently from three hours to three and a half1 if the tails be very large2 lift them out1 strain the liquor1 and skim off all the fat2 divide the tails into joints1 and put them into a couple of quarts or rather more of the stock2 stir in1 when these begin to boil1 a thickening of arrow-root or of rice flour 7see page #d71 mixed with as much cayenne and salt as may be required to flavour the soup well1 and serve it very hot4 ,if stewed down until the flesh falls away from the bones1 the ox-tails will make stock which will be quite a firm jelly when cold2 and this1 strained1 thickened1 and well flavoured with spices1 catsup1 or a little wine1 would1 to many tastes1 be a superior soup to the above4 ,a richer one still may be made by pouring good beef broth instead of water to the meat in the first instance4 ,ox-tails1 #c2 water1 #a gallon2 salt1 #a-a_/b oz42 carrots1 #d2 onions1 #b to #d2 turnips1 #b2 celery1 #a head2 cloves1 #h2 peppercorns1 #a_/b teaspoonful2 faggot of savoury herbs3 #c hours to #c-a_/b4 ,for a richer soup1 #e to #f hours4 7,ham or gammon of bacon at pleasure1 with other flavourings47 ,obs4--,to increase the savour of this soup when the meat is not served in it1 the onions1 turnips1 and carrots may be gently fried until of a fine light brown1 before they are added to it4 ,a ,,cheap ,,and ,,good ,,stew ,,soup4 ,put from four to five pounds of the gristly part of the shin of beef into three quarts of cold water1 and stew it very softly indeed1 with the addition of the salt and vegetables directed for bouillon 7see page #g71 until the whole is very tender2 lift out the meat1 strain the liquor1 and put it into a large clean saucepan1 add a thickening of rice-flour or arrow-root1 pepper and salt if needed1 and a tablespoonful of mushroom catsup4 ,in the mean time1 cut all the meat into small1 thick slices1 add it to the soup1 and serve it as soon as it is very hot4 ,the thickening and catsup may be omitted1 and all the vegetables1 pressed through a strainer1 may be stirred into the soup instead1 before the meat is put back into it4 ,,soup ,,in ,,haste4 ,chop tolerably fine a pound of lean beef1 mutton1 or veal1 and when it is partly done1 add to it a small carrot and one small turnip cut in slices1 half an ounce of celery1 the white part of a moderate-sized leek1 or a quarter of an ounce of onion4 ,mince all these together1 and put the whole into a deep saucepan with three pints of cold water4 ,when the soup boils take off the scum1 and add a little salt and pepper4 ,in half an hour it will be ready to serve with or without straining3 it may be flavoured at will1 with cayenne1 catsup1 or aught else that is preferred1 or it may be converted into ,french spring broth1 by passing it through a sieve1 and boiling it again for five or six minutes1 with a handful of young and well washed sorrel4 ,meat1 #a lb42 carrot1 #b oz42 turnip1 #a-a_/b oz42 celery1 #a_/b oz42 onion1 #a_/d oz4 water1 #c pints3 half an hour4 ,little pepper and salt4 ,obs4--,three pounds of beef or mutton1 with two or three slices of ham1 and vegetables in proportion to the above receipt1 all chopped fine1 and boiled in three quarts of water for an hour and a half1 will make an excellent family soup on an emergency3 additional boiling will of course improve it1 and a little spice should be added after it has been skimmed and salted4 ,it may easily be converted into carrot1 turnip1 or ground-rice soup after it is strained4 ,,veal ,,or ,,mutton ,,broth4 ,to each pound of meat add a quart of cold water1 bring it gently to boil1 skim it very clean1 add salt in the same proportion as for bouillon 7see page #g71 with spices and vegetables also1 unless unflavoured broth be required1 when a few peppercorns1 a blade or two of mace1 and a bunch of savoury herbs1 will be sufficient2 though for some purposes even these1 with the exception of the salt1 are better omitted4 ,simmer the broth for about four hours1 unless the quantity be very small1 when from two and a half to three1 will be sufficient4 ,a little rice boiled down with the meat will both thicken the broth1 and render it more nutritious4 ,strain it off when done1 and let it stand till quite cold that the fat may be entirely cleared from it3 this is especially needful when it is to be served to an invalid4 ,veal or mutton1 #d lbs42 water1 #d quarts2 salt4 7,for vegetables1 c41 see page #g27 rice 7if used71 #d oz43 #d hours or more4 ,,milk ,,soup ,,with ,,vermicelli4 ,throw into five pints of boiling milk a small quantity of salt1 and then drop lightly into it five ounces of good fresh vermicelli2 keep the milk stirred as this is added1 to prevent its gathering into lumps1 and continue to stir it very frequently from fifteen to twenty minutes1 or until it is perfectly tender4 ,the addition of a little pounded sugar and powdered cinnamon renders this a very agreeable dish4 ,in ,catholic countries1 milk soups of various kinds constantly supply the place of those made with meat1 on maigre days2 and with us they are sometimes very acceptable1 as giving a change of diet for the nursery or sick room4 ,rice1 semoulina1 sago1 cocoa-nut1 and maccaroni may all in turn be used for them as directed for other soups in this chapter1 but they will be required in rather smaller proportions with the milk4 ,milk1 #e pints2 vermicelli1 #e oz43 #ae to #bj minutes4 ,,cheap ,,rice ,,soup4 ,place a gallon of water on the fire 7more or less according to the quantity of soup required71 and when it boils1 throw in a moderate-sized tablespoonful of salt1 and two or three onions1 thickly sliced1 a faggot of sweet herbs1 a root of celery1 and three or four large carrots split down into many divisions1 and cut into short lengths4 ,boil these gently for an hour and a half1 or two hours1 and then strain the liquor from them4 ,when time will permit1 let it become cold2 then for each quart1 take from three to four ounces of well washed rice1 pour the soup on it1 heat it very slowly1 giving it an occasional stir1 and stew it gently until it is perfectly tender1 and the potage quite thick4 ,a moderate seasoning of pepper1 and an ounce or two of fresh butter well blended with a teaspoonful of flour1 may be thoroughly stirred up with the soup before it is served2 or1 in lieu of the butter1 the yolks of two or three new-laid eggs1 mixed with a little milk1 may be carefully added to it4 ,it may be more quickly prepared by substituting vermicelli1 semoulina1 or soujee for the rice1 as this last will require three quarters of an hour or more of stewing after it begins to boil1 and the three other ingredients--either of which must be dropped gradually into the soup when it is in full ebullition--will be done in from twenty to thirty minutes2 and two ounces will thicken sufficiently a quart of broth4 ,a large tablespoonful of ,captain ,white's currie-paste1 and a small one of flour1 diluted with a spoonful or twos of the broth1 or with a little milk or cream1 if perfectly mixed with the rice and stewed with it for fifteen or twenty minutes before it is dished1 render it excellent3 few eaters would discover that it was made without meat4 ,good beef or mutton broth can be used instead of water for the above soup1 and in that case the vegetables sliced small1 or rubbed through a strainer1 may be added to it before it is served4 ,,carrot ,,soup ,,maigre4 ,throw two ounces of salt into a gallon of boiling water1 then add three or four carrots quartered or thickly sliced1 one onion or more according to the taste1 and a faggot of parsley1 or some parsley roots4 ,when these have boiled gently for upwards of an hour1 strain off the liquor and put it back into the saucepan4 ,have ready more carrots1 nicely scraped and washed2 split them down into strips about the size of large macaroni and cut them into half finger lengths4 ,two quarts of these will not be too much for persons who like the soup well filled with the vegetable2 boil them perfectly tender1 and turn them with their liquor into the tureen1 first adding pepper sufficient to season it properly1 and more salt if needed4 ,the proportion of carrots may be diminished1 and a quart or more of ,brussels sprouts1 boiled and drained1 may be substituted for part of them4 ,some persons have these soups thickened1 or enriched as they think1 with flour and butter2 but the latter ingredient should at least be sparingly used2 and any other kind of thickening is more wholesome4 ,a few ounces of vermicelli stewed in them for twenty minutes or rather longer1 will be found a very good one4 ,celery1 leeks1 and turnips may be boiled down in the carrot-stock1 or added when the fresh vegetables have been stewed in it for about ten minutes4 ,,cheap ,,fish ,,soups4 ,an infinite variety of excellent soups may be made of fish1 which may be stewed down for them in precisely the same manner as meat1 and with the same addition of vegetables and herbs4 ,when the skin is coarse or rank it should be carefully stripped off before the fish is used2 and any oily particles which may float on the surface should be entirely removed from it4 ,in ,france1 ,jersey1 ,cornwall1 and many other localities1 the conger eel1 divested of its skin1 is sliced up into thick cutlets and made into soup1 which we are assured by ,english families who have it often served at their tables1 is extremely good4 ,a half-grown fish is best for the purpose4 ,after the soup has been strained and allowed to settle1 it must be heated afresh1 and rice and minced parsley may be added to it as for the turkey soup of page #cb2 or it may be thickened with rice-flour only1 or served clear4 ,curried fish-soups1 too1 are much to be recommended4 ,when broth or stock has been made as above with conger eel1 common eels1 whitings1 haddocks1 codlings1 fresh water fish1 or any common kind1 which may be at hand1 flakes of cold salmon1 cod fish1 ,john ,dories1 or scallops of cold soles1 plaice1#da c41 may be heated and served in it2 and the remains of crabs or lobsters mingled with them4 ,the large oysters sold at so cheap a rate upon the coast1 and which are not much esteemed for eating raw1 serve admirably for imparting flavour to soup1 and the softer portions of them may be served in it after a few minutes of gentle simmering4 ,anchovy or any other store fish-sauce may be added with good effect to many of these pottages if used with moderation4 ,prawns and shrimps likewise would generally be considered an improvement to them4 ,footnote #da3 ,some persons prefer the vegetables slowly fried to a fine brown1 then drained on a sieve1 and well dried before the fire2 but though more savoury so1 they do not improve the colour of the soup4 ,for more savoury preparations1 fry the fish and vegetables1 lay them into the soup-pot1 and add boiling1 instead of cold water to them4 ,,buchanan ,,carrot ,,soup4 7,excellent47 ,make two quarts of soup by either of the foregoing receipts1 using for it good brown stock 7for a common family dinner strong beef broth will do74 ,mix smoothly with a little liquid1 a tablespoonful of fine currie-powder1 and boil it in the soup for ten minutes2 or instead of this1 season it rather highly with cayenne pepper1 and then stir into it from six ounces to half a pound of ,patna rice boiled dry and tender as for a currie4 ,the whole may then remain by the side of the fire without even simmering for ten minutes longer1 and then be served immediately4 ,as a winter potage this is generally much liked4 ,a spoonful of ,captain ,white's currie-paste will flavour it very agreeably if smoothly diluted1 and simmered in it for two or three minutes3 we prefer it always to the powder4 ,three or four ounces of pearl-barley well washed1 soaked for some hours1 and boiled extremely tender in broth or water1 may on occasion be substituted for the rice4 ,obs4--,this receipt was1 from inadvertence1 omitted at its proper place1 page #bj1 where it ought to have been inserted after the carrot soups which will be found there1 and to which the reader is referred for the method of preparing the present one in part4 ,,observation4 ,the present chapter already so far exceeds the limits within which it ought to have been confined1 that we are obliged to reserve several additions which we were desirous of making to it1 for the chance of being able to insert them in an appendix4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,fish4 ,illustration3 ,,to ,,choose ,,fish4 ,illustration3 ,copper ,fish or ,ham ,kettle4 ,the cook should be well acquainted with the signs of freshness and good condition in fish1 as they are most unwholesome articles of food when stale1 and many of them are also dangerous eating when they are out of season4 ,the eyes should always be bright1 the gills of a fine clear red1 the body stiff1 the flesh firm1 yet elastic to the touch1 and the smell not disagreeable4 ,when all these marks are reversed1 and the eyes are sunken1 the gills very dark in hue1 the fish itself flabby and of offensive odour1 it is bad1 and should be avoided4 ,the chloride of soda1 will1 it is true1 restore it to a tolerably eatable state1#db if it be not very much over-kept1 but it will never resemble in quality and wholesomeness fish which is fresh from the water4 ,footnote #db3 ,we have known this applied very successfully to salmon which from some hours' keeping in sultry weather had acquired a slight degree of taint1 of which no trace remained after it was dressed2 as a general rule1 however1 fish which is not wholesomely fresh should be rejected for the table4 ,illustration3 ,mackerel ,kettle4 ,a good turbot is thick1 and full fleshed1 and the under side is of a pale cream colour or yellowish white2 when this is of a bluish tint1 and the fish is thin and soft1 it should be rejected4 ,the same observations apply equally to soles4 ,the best salmon and cod fish are known by a small head1 very thick shoulders1 and a small tail2 the scales of the former should be bright1 and its flesh of a fine red colour2 to be eaten in perfection it should be dressed as soon as it is caught1 before the curd 7or white substance which lies between the flakes of flesh7 has melted and rendered the fish oily4 ,in that state it is really crimp1 but continues so only for a very few hours2 and it bears therefore a much higher price in the ,london market then1 than when mellowed by having been kept a day or two4 ,the flesh of cod fish should be white and clear before it is boiled1 whiter still after it is boiled1 and firm though tender1 sweet and mild in flavour1 and separated easily into large flakes4 ,many persons consider it rather improved than otherwise by having a little salt rubbed along the inside of the back-bone and letting it lie from twenty-four to forty-eight hours before it is dressed14 ,it is sometimes served crimp like salmon1 and must then be sliced as soon as it is dead1 or within the shortest possible time afterwards4 ,herrings1 mackerel1 and whitings1 unless newly caught1 are quite uneatable4 ,when they are in good condition their natural colours will be very distinct and their whole appearance glossy and fresh4 ,the herring when first taken from the water is of a silvery brightness2 the back of the mackerel is of a bright green marked with dark stripes2 but this becomes of a coppery colour as the fish grows stale4 ,the whiting is of a pale brown or fawn colour with a pinkish tint2 but appears dim and leaden-hued when no longer fresh4 ,eels should be alive and brisk in movement when they are purchased1 but the 8horrid barbarity10 as it is truly designated1 of skinning and dividing them while they are so1 is without excuse1 as they are easily destroyed 8by piercing the spinal marrow close to the back part of the skull with a sharp pointed knife or skewer4 ,if this be done in the right place all motion will instantly cease40 ,we quote ,dr4 ,kitchener's assertion on this subject2 but we know that the mode of destruction which he recommends is commonly practised by the ,london fishmongers4 ,boiling water also will immediately cause vitality to cease1 and is perhaps the most humane and ready method of destroying the fish4 ,lobsters1 prawns1 and shrimps1 are very stiff when freshly boiled1 and the tails turn strongly inwards2 when these relax1 and the fish are soft and watery1 they are stale2 and the smell will detect their being so1 instantly1 even if no other symptoms of it be remarked4 ,if bought alive1 lobsters should be chosen by their weight and 8liveliness40 ,the hen lobster is preferred for sauce and soups1 on account of the coral2 but the flesh of the male is generally considered of finer flavour for eating4 ,the vivacity of their leaps will show when prawns and shrimps are fresh from the sea4 ,oysters should close forcibly on the knife when they are opened3 if the shells are apart ever so little they are losing their condition1 and when they remain far open the fish are dead1 and fit only to be thrown away4 ,small plump natives are very preferable to the larger and coarser kinds4 ,,to ,,clean ,,fish4 ,let this be always done with the most scrupulous nicety1 for nothing can more effectually destroy the appetite1 or disgrace the cook1 than fish sent to table imperfectly cleaned4 ,handle it lightly1 and never throw it roughly about1 so as to bruise it2 wash it well1 but do not leave it longer in the water than is necessary2 for fish1 like meat1 loses its flavour from being soaked4 ,when the scales are to be removed1 lay the fish flat upon its side and hold it firmly with the left hand1 while they are scraped off with the right2 turn it1 and when both sides are done1 pour or pump sufficient water to float off all the loose scales2 then proceed to empty it2 and do this without opening it more than is absolutely necessary for the purposes of cleanliness4 ,be sure that not the slightest particle of offensive matter be left in the inside2 wash out the blood entirely1 and scrape or brush it away if needful from the back-bone4 ,this may easily be accomplished without opening the fish so much as to render it unsightly when it is sent to table4 ,when the scales are left on1 the outside of the fish should be well washed and wiped with a coarse cloth1 drawn gently from the head to the tail4 ,eels to be wholesome should be skinned1 but they are sometimes dressed without2 boiling water should then be poured upon them1 and they should be left in it from five to ten minutes before they are cut up4 ,the dark skin of the sole must be stripped off when it is fried1 but it should be left on it like that of a turbot when the fish is boiled1 and it should be dished with the white side upwards4 ,whitings are skinned before they are egged and crumbed for frying1 but for boiling or broiling1 the skin is left on them4 ,the gills of all fish 7the red mullet sometimes excepted71 must be taken out4 ,the fins of a turbot1 which are considered a great delicacy1 should be left untouched2 but those of most other fish must be cut off4 ,,to ,,keep ,,fish4 ,we find that all the smaller kinds of fish keep best if emptied and cleaned as soon as they are brought in1 then wiped gently as dry as they can be1 and hung separately by the head on the hooks in the ceiling of a cool larder1 or in the open air when the weather will allow4 ,when there is danger of their being attacked by flies1 a wire safe1 placed in a strong draught of air1 is better adapted to the purpose4 ,soles in winter will remain good for two days when thus prepared2 and even whitings and mackerel may be kept so without losing any of their excellence4 ,salt may be rubbed slightly over cod fish1 and well along the back-bone2 but it injures the flavour of salmon1 the inside of which may be rubbed with vinegar and peppered instead4 ,when excessive sultriness renders all of these modes unavailing1 the fish must at once be partially cooked to preserve it1 but this should be avoided if possible1 as it is very rarely so good when this method is resorted to4 ,,to ,,sweeten ,,tainted ,,fish4 ,the application of strong vinegar1 or of acetic acid 7which may be purchased at the chemists'71 will effect this when the taint is but slight4 ,the vinegar should be used pure2 and one wineglassful of the acid should be mixed with two of water4 ,pour either of these over the fish1 and rub it on the parts which require it2 then leave it untouched for a few minutes1 and wash it afterwards well1 changing the water two or three times4 ,when the fish is in a worse state the chloride of soda1 from its powerful anti-putrescent properties1 will have more effect3 it may be diluted1 and applied in the same manner as the acid4 ,obs4--,we have retained here the substance of the directions which we had given in former editions of this book for rendering eatable fish 7and meat7 tainted by being closely packed or overkept2 and it is true that they may be deprived of their offensive flavour and odour by the application of strong acids and other disinfecting agents1--,beaufoy's chloride of soda more especially--but we are very doubtful whether they can by any process be converted into unquestionably wholesome food1 unless from some accidental circumstance the mere surface should be affected1 or some small portion of them1 which could be entirely cut away4 ,we cannot1 therefore1 conscientiously recommend the false economy of endangering health in preference to rejecting them for the table altogether4 ,,the ,,mode ,,of ,,cooking ,,best ,,adapted ,,to ,,different ,,kinds ,,of ,,fish4 ,it is not possible1 the reader will easily believe1 to insert in a work of the size of the present volume1 all the modes of dressing the many varieties of fish which are suited to our tables2 we give1 therefore1 only the more essential receipts in detail1 and add to them such general information as may1 we trust1 enable even a moderately intelligent cook to serve all that may usually be required1 without difficulty4 ,there is no better way of dressing a good turbot1 brill1 ,john ,dory1 or cod's head and shoulders1 than plain but careful boiling4 ,salmon is excellent in almost every mode in which it can be cooked or used4 ,boiled entire or in crimped slices2 roasted in a cradle-spit or ,dutch oven2 baked2 fried in small collops2 collared2 potted2 dried and smoked2 pickled or soused 7this is the coarsest and least to be recommended process for it1 of any72 made into a raised or common pie1 or a potato-pasty2 served cold in or with savoury jelly1 or with a ,mayonnaise sauce2 or laid on potatoes and baked1 as in ,ireland1 it will be found ,good4 ,soles may be either boiled1 or baked1 or fried entire1 or in fillets2 curried2 stewed in cream2 or prepared by any of the directions given for them in the body of this chapter4 ,plaice1 unless when in full season and very fresh1 is apt to be watery and insipid2 but taken in its perfection and carefully cooked1 it is very sweet and delicate in flavour4 ,if large1 it may be boiled with advantage either whole or in fillets2 but to many tastes it is very superior when filleted1 dipped into egg and bread-crumbs1 and fried4 ,the flesh may also be curried2 or the plaice may be converted into water-souchy1 or soupe-maigre3 when small it is often fried whole4 ,red mullet should always be baked1 broiled1 or roasted3 it should on no occasion be boiled4 ,mackerel1 for which many receipts will be found in this chapter1 when broiled quite whole1 as we have directed1 or freed from the bones1 divided1 egged1 crumbed1 and fried1 is infinitely superior to the same fish cooked in the ordinary manner4 ,the whiting1 when very fresh and in season1 is always delicate and good2 and of all fish is considered the best suited to invalids4 ,perhaps quite the most wholesome mode of preparing it for them1 is to open it as little as possible when it is cleansed1 to leave the skin on1 to dry the fish well1 and to broil it gently4 ,it should be sent very hot to table1 and will require no sauce3 twenty minutes will usually be required to cook it1 if of moderate size4 ,the haddock is sometimes very large4 ,we have had it occasionally from our southern coast between two and three feet in length1 and it was then remarkably good when simply boiled1 even the day after it was caught1 the white curd between the flakes of flesh being like that of extremely fresh salmon4 ,as it is in full season in mid-winter1 it can be sent to a distance without injury4 ,it is a very firm fish when large and in season2 but1 as purchased commonly at inland markets1 is often neither fine in size nor quality4 ,one of the best modes of cooking it is1 to take the flesh entire from the bones1 to divide it1 dip it into egg and bread-crumbs1 mixed with savoury herbs finely minced1 and a seasoning of salt and spice1 and to fry it like soles4 ,other receipts for it will be found in the body of this chapter4 ,the flesh of the gurnard is exceedingly dry1 and somewhat over firm1 but when filled with well-made forcemeat and gently baked1 it is much liked by many persons4 ,at good tables1 it is often served in fillets fried or baked1 and richly sauced3 in common cookery it is sometimes boiled4 ,portions only of the skate1 which is frequently of enormous size1 are used as food3 these are in general cut out by the fisherman or by the salesman1 and are called the wings4 ,the flesh is commonly served here divided into long narrow fillets1 called crimped skate1 which are rolled up and fastened1 to preserve them in that form1 while they are cooked4 ,in ,france1 it is sent to table raised from the bones in large portions1 sauced with beurre-noir 7burned or browned butter71 and strewed with well-crisped parsley4 ,trout1 which is a delicious fish when stewed in gravy1 either quite simply1 or with the addition of wine and various condiments1 and which when of small size is very sweet and pleasant1 eating nicely fried1 is poor and insipid when plainly boiled4#dc ,footnote #dc3 ,we have been informed by ,mr4 ,howitt1 the well-known author of several highly interesting works on ,germany1 that this fish1 when boiled the instant it was caught--as he had eaten it often on the banks of some celebrated ,german trout-streams--was most excellent1 especially when it was of large size2 but1 as a general rule1 almost any other mode of cooking is to be recommended for it in preference4 ,pike1 of which the flesh is extremely dry1 is we think better baked than dressed in any other way2 but it is often boiled4 ,carp should either be stewed whole in the same manner as trout1 or served cut in slices1 in a rich sauce called a matelote4 ,smelts1 sand-eels1 and white-bait1 are always fried2 the last two sometimes after being dipped into batter4 ,,the ,,best ,,mode ,,of ,,boiling ,,fish4 ,we have left unaltered in the following receipts the greater number of our original directions for boiling fish1 which were found when carefully followed1 to produce a good result2 but ,baron ,liebeg and other scientific writers explain clearly the principles on which the nutriment contained in fish or flesh is best retained by bringing the surface of either when it is cooked1 into immediate contact with boiling water2 and then 7after a few minutes of ebullition7 lowering the temperature by the addition of cold water1 and keeping it somewhat below the boiling point for the remainder of the process4 ,this method is at least worthy of a trial1 even if it be attended with a slight degree more of trouble than those in general use2 but when fish is served with a variety of other dishes1 the escape of some portion of its nutritious juices is of less importance than when it forms the principal food of any part of the community3 in that case1 the preservation of all the nourishment which can be derived from it1 is of real consequence4 ,directions4--,throw into as much water as will cover the fish entirely1 a portion of the salt which is to be added in cooking it1 and when it boils quickly take off the scum1 lay in the fish1 and let it boil moderately fast from three to ten minutes1 according to its weight and thickness2 then pour in as much cold water as there is of the boiling1 take out a part1 leaving sufficient only to keep the fish well covered until it is ready to serve2 add the remainder of the salt1 draw the fish-kettle to the side of the fire1 and keep the water just simmering1 and no more1 until the fish is done4 ,the cook will understand that if a gallon of water be required to cover the fish while it is cooking1 that quantity must be made to boil2 and that a gallon of cold must be added to it after the fish has been laid in1 and kept boiling for a very few minutes4 ,for example3--,a large turbot or cod's head for ten minutes2 a moderate-sized plaice or ,john ,dory1 about five2 and whitings1 codlings1 and other small fish1 from three to four minutes4 ,that one gallon must then be taken out of the kettle1 which should immediately be drawn from the fire1 and placed at the side of the stove1 that the fish may be gradually heated through as the water is brought slowly to the point of simmering4 ,the whole of the salt may be added after a portion of the water is withdrawn1 when the cook cannot entirely depend on her own judgment for the precise quantity required4 ,obs4--,this is the best practical application that we can give of ,baron ,liebeg's instructions4 ,,brine ,,for ,,boiling ,,fish4 ,fish is exceedingly insipid if sufficient salt be not mixed with the water in which it is boiled1 but the precise quantity required for it will depend1 in some measure1 upon the kind of salt which is used4 ,fine common salt is that for which our directions are given2 but when the ,maldon salt1 which is very superior in strength1 as well as in other qualities1 is substituted for it1 a smaller quantity must be allowed4 ,about four ounces to the gallon of water will be sufficient for small fish in general2 an additional ounce1 or rather more1 will not be too much for cod fish1 lobsters1 crabs1 prawns1 and shrimps2 and salmon will require eight ounces1 as the brine for this fish should be strong3 the water should always be perfectly well skimmed from the moment the scum begins to form upon the surface4 ,mackerel1 whiting1 and other small fish1 #d ounces of salt to a gallon of water4 ,cod fish1 lobsters1 crabs1 prawns1 shrimps1 #e to #f oz4 ,salmon1 #h ozs4 ,,to ,,render ,,boiled ,,fish ,,firm4 ,put a small bit of saltpetre with the salt into the water in which it is boiled3 a quarter of an ounce will be sufficient for a gallon4 ,,to ,,know ,,when ,,fish ,,is ,,sufficiently ,,boiled1 ,,or ,,otherwise ,,cooked4 ,if the thickest part of the flesh separates easily from the back-bone1 it is quite ready to serve1 and should be withdrawn from the pan without delay1 as further cooking would be injurious to it4 ,this test can easily be applied to a fish which has been divided1 but when it is entire it should be lifted from the water when the flesh of the tail breaks from the bone1 and the eyes loosen from the head4 ,,to ,,bake ,,fish4 ,a gentle oven may be used with advantage1 for cooking almost every kind of fish1 as we have ascertained from our own observation2 but it must be subjected to a mild degree of heat only4 ,this penetrates the flesh gradually1 and converts it into wholesome succulent food2 whereas1 a hot oven evaporates all the juices rapidly1 and renders the fish hard and dry4 ,when small1 they should be wrapped in oiled or buttered paper before they are baked2 and when filleted1 or left in any other form1 and placed in a deep dish with or without any liquid before they are put into the oven1 a buttered paper should still be laid closely upon them to keep the surface moist4 ,large pieces of salmon1 conger eel1 and other fish of considerable size are sometimes in common cookery baked like meat over potatoes pared and halved4 ,,fat ,,for ,,frying ,,fish4 ,this1 whether it be butter1 lard1 or oil should always be excellent in quality1 for the finest fish will be rendered unfit for eating if it be fried in fat that is rancid4 ,when good1 and used in sufficient quantity1 it will serve for the same purpose several times1 if strained after each frying1 and put carefully away in a clean pan1 provided always that it has not been smoked nor burned in the using4 ,lard renders fish more crisp than butter does2 but fresh1 pure olive-oil 7salad oil1 as it is commonly called in ,england7 is the best ingredient which can be used for it1 and as it will serve well for the same purpose1 many times in succession1 if strained and carefully stored as we have already stated1 it is not in reality so expensive as might be supposed for this mode of cooking4 ,there should always be an ample quantity of it 7or of any other friture#dd7 in the pan1 as the fish should be nearly covered with it1 at the least2 and it should cease to bubble before either fish or meat is laid into it1 or it will be too much absorbed by the flesh1 and will impart neither sufficient firmness1 nor sufficient colour4 ,footnote #dd3 ,the ,french term for fat of all kinds used in frying4 ,,to ,,keep ,,fish ,,hot ,,for ,,table4 ,never leave it in the water after it is done1 but if it cannot be sent to table as soon as it is ready to serve1 lift it out1 lay the fish-plate into a large and a very hot dish1 and set it across the fish-kettle2 just dip a clean cloth into the boiling water1 and spread it upon the fish1 place a tin cover over it1 and let it remain so until two or three minutes before it is wanted1 then remove the cloth1 and put the fish back into the kettle for an instant that it may be as hot as possible3 drain1 dish1 and serve it immediately3 the water should be kept boiling the whole time4 ,,to ,,boil ,a ,,turbot4 ,in season all the year4 ,illustration3 ,turbot4 ,a fine turbot1 in full season1 and well served1 is one of the most delicate and delicious fish that can be sent to table2 but it is generally an expensive dish1 and its excellence so much depends on the manner in which it is dressed1 that great care should be taken to prepare it properly4 ,after it is emptied1 wash the inside until it is perfectly cleansed1 and rub lightly a little fine salt over the outside1 as this will render less washing and handling necessary1 by at once taking off the slime2 change the water several times1 and when the fish is as clean as it is possible to render it1 draw a sharp knife through the thickest part of the middle of the back nearly through to the bone4#de ,never cut off the fins of a turbot when preparing it for table1 and remember that it is the dark side of the fish in which the incision is to be made1 to prevent the skin of the white side from cracking4 ,dissolve in a well-cleaned turbot or common fish-kettle1 in as much cold spring water as will cover the fish abundantly1 salt1 in the proportion of four ounces to the gallon2 wipe the fish-plate with a clean cloth1 lay the turbot upon it with the white side upwards1 place it in the kettle1 bring it slowly to boil1 and clear off the scum thoroughly as it rises4 ,let the water only just simmer until the fish is done1 then lift it out1 drain1 and slide it gently on to a very hot dish1 with a hot napkin neatly arranged over the drainer4 ,send it immediately to table with rich lobster sauce and good plain melted butter4 ,for a simple dinner1 anchovy or shrimp sauce is sometimes served with a small turbot4 ,should there be any cracks in the skin of the fish1 branches of curled parsley may be laid lightly over them1 or part of the inside coral of a lobster1 rubbed through a fine hair-sieve1 may be sprinkled over the fish2 but it's better without either1 when it is very white and unbroken4 ,when garnishings are in favour1 a slice of lemon and a tuft of curled parsley1 may be placed alternately round the edge of the dish4 ,a border of fried smelts or of fillets of soles1 was formerly served round a turbot1 and is always a very admissible addition1 though no longer so fashionable as it was4 ,from fifteen to twenty minutes will boil a moderate-sized fish1 and from twenty to thirty a large one2 but as the same time will not always be sufficient for a fish of the same weight1 the cook must watch it attentively1 and lift it out as soon as its appearance denotes its being done4 ,footnote #de3 ,this is the common practice even of the best cooks1 but is very unscientific nevertheless4 ,when the incision is made really into the flesh the turbot should be cooked altogether on ,liebeg's plan1 for which see 8,the ,best ,mode of ,boiling ,fish10 in the preceding pages4 ,moderate sized turbot1 #ae to #bj minutes4 ,large1 #bj to #cj minutes4 ,longer1 if of unusual size4 ,obs4--,a lemon gently squeezed1 and rubbed over the fish1 is thought to preserve its whiteness4 ,some good cooks still put turbot into boiling water1 and to prevent its breaking1 tie it with a cloth tightly to the fish-plate4 ,,turbot ,,la ,,cr,,me4 ,raise carefully from the bones the flesh of a cold turbot1 and clear it from the dark skin2 cut it into small squares1 and put it into an exceedingly clean stewpan or saucepan2 then make and pour upon it the cream sauce of ,chapter ,v41 or make as much as may be required for the fish by the same receipt1 with equal proportions of milk and cream and a little additional flour4 ,heat the turbot slowly in the sauce1 but do not allow it to boil1 and send it very hot to table4 ,the white skin of the fish is not usually added to this dish1 and it is of better appearance without it2 but for a family dinner1 it may be left on the flesh1 when it is much liked4 ,no acid must be stirred to the sauce until the whole is ready for table4 ,,turbot ,,au ,b,,chamel1 ,,or1 ,,in ,b,,chamel ,,sauce4 ,prepare the cold turbot as for the preceding receipt1 but leave no portion of the skin with it4 ,heat it in a rich bechamel sauce1 and serve it in a vol-au-vent1 or in a deep dish with a border of fried bread cut in an elegant form1 and made with one dark and one light sippet1 placed alternately4 ,the surface may be covered with a half-inch layer of delicately fried bread-crumbs1 perfectly well drained and dried2 or they may be spread over the fish without being fried1 then moistened with clarified butter1 and browned with a salamander4 ,,for ,,mould ,,of ,,cold ,,turbot ,,with ,,shrimp ,,chatney1 see ,chapter ,,vi4 ,,to ,,boil ,a ,,john ,,dory4 ,in best season from ,michaelmas to ,christmas1 but good all the year4 ,illustration3 ,john ,dory4 ,the ,john ,dory1 though of uninviting appearance1 is considered by some persons as the most delicious fish that appears at table2 in the general estimation1 however1 it ranks next to the turbot1 but it is far less abundant in our markets1 and is not commonly to be procured of sufficient size for a handsome dish1 except in some few parts of our coast which are celebrated for it4 ,it may easily be known by its yellow gray colour1 its one large dark spot on either side1 the long filaments on the back1 a general thickness of form1 and its very ugly head4 ,it is dressed in the same manner1 and served usually with the same sauces as a turbot1 but requires less time to boil it4 ,the fins should be cut off before it is cooked4 ,,small ,,john ,,dories ,,baked4 7,author's ,receipt--good47 ,we have found these fish when they were too small to be worth cooking in the usual way1 excellent when quite simply baked in the following manner1 the flesh being remarkably sweet and tender1 much more so than it becomes by frying or broiling4 ,after they have been cleaned1 dry them in a cloth1 season the insides slightly with fine salt1 dredge a little flour on the fish1 and stick a few very small bits of butter on them1 but only just sufficient to prevent their becoming dry in the oven2 lay them singly on a flat dish1 and bake them very gently from fourteen to sixteen minutes4 ,serve them with the same sauce as baked soles4 ,when extremely fresh1 as it usually is in the markets of the coast1 fish thus simply dressed au four is preferable to that more elaborately prepared by adding various condiments to it after it is placed in a deep dish1 and covering it with a thick layer of bread-crumbs1 moistened with clarified butter4 ,the appearance of the ,john ,dories is improved by taking off the heads1 and cutting away not only the fins but the filaments of the back4 ,,to ,,boil ,a ,,brill4 ,a fresh and full-sized brill always ranks high in the list of fish1 as it is of good appearance1 and the flesh is sweet and delicate4 ,it requires less cooking than the turbot1 even when it is of equal size2 but otherwise may be dressed and served in a similar manner4 ,it has not the same rich glutinous skin as that fish1 nor are the fins esteemed4 ,they must be cut off when the brill is cleaned2 and it may be put into nearly boiling water1 unless it be very large4 ,simmer it gently1 and drain it well upon the fish-plate when it is lifted out2 dish it on a napkin1 and send lobster1 anchovy1 crab1 or shrimp sauce to table with it4 ,lobster coral1 rubbed through a sieve1 is commonly sprinkled over it for a formal dinner4 ,the most usual garnish for boiled flat fish is curled parsley placed round it in light tufts2 how far it is appropriate1 individual taste must decide4 ,brill1 moderate-sized1 about #bj minutes2 large1 #cj minutes4 ,obs4--,the precise time which a fish will require to be boiled cannot be given3 it must be watched1 and not allowed to remain in the water after it begins to crack4 ,,to ,,boil ,,salmon4 ,in full season from ,may to ,august3 may be had much earlier1 but is scarce and dear4 ,to preserve the fine colour of this fish1 and to set the curd when it is quite freshly caught1 it is usual to put it into boiling1 instead of into cold water4 ,scale1 empty1 and wash it with the greatest nicety1 and be especially careful to cleanse all the blood from the inside4 ,stir into the fish-kettle eight ounces of common salt to the gallon of water1 let it boil quickly for a minute or two1 take off all the scum1 put in the salmon and boil it moderately fast1 if it be small1 but more gently should it be very thick2 and assure yourself that it is quite sufficiently done before it is sent to table1 for nothing can be more distasteful1 even to the eye1 than fish which is under dressed4 ,from two to three pounds of the thick part of a fine salmon will require half an hour to boil it1 but eight or ten pounds will be done enough in little more than double that time2 less in proportion to its weight should be allowed for a small fish1 or for the thin end of a large one4 ,do not allow the salmon to remain in the water after it is ready to serve1 or both its flavour and appearance will be injured4 ,dish it on a hot napkin1 and send dressed cucumber1 and anchovy1 shrimp1 or lobster sauce1 and a tureen of plain melted butter to table with it4 ,to each gallon water1 #h oz4 salt4 ,salmon1 #b to #c lbs4 7thick71 #a_/b hour2 #h to #aj lbs41 #a-a_/d hour2 small1 or thin fish1 less time4 ,,salmon ,,la ,,genevese4 ,a fashionable mode of serving salmon at the present day is to divide the larger portion of the body into three equal parts2 to boil them in water1 or in a marinade2 and to serve them dished in a line1 but not close together1 and covered with a rich ,genevese sauce 7for which see ,chapter ,v47 ,it appears to us that the skin should be stripped from any fish over which the sauce is poured1 but in this case it is not customary4 ,,crimped ,,salmon4 ,cut into slices an inch and a half1 or two inches thick1 the body of a salmon quite newly caught2 throw them into strong salt and water as they are done1 but do not let them soak in it2 wash them well1 lay them on a fish-plate1 and put them into fast boiling water1 salted and well skimmed4 ,in from ten to fifteen minutes they will be done4 ,dish them on a napkin1 and send them very hot to table with lobster sauce1 and plain melted butter2 or with the caper fish-sauce of ,chapter ,v4 ,the water should be salted as for salmon boiled in the ordinary way1 and the scum should be cleared off with great care after the fish is in4 ,in boiling water1 #aj to #ae minutes4 ,,salmon ,,la ,,st4 ,,marcel4 ,separate some cold boiled salmon into flakes1 and free them entirely from the skin2 break the bones1 and boil them in a pint of water for half an hour4 ,strain off the liquor1 put it into a clean saucepan and stir into it by degrees when it begins to boil quickly1 two ounces of butter mixed with a large teaspoonful of flour1 and when the whole has boiled for two or three minutes add a teaspoonful of essence of anchovies1 one of good mushroom catsup1 half as much lemon-juice or chili vinegar1 a half saltspoonful of pounded mace1 some cayenne1 and a very little salt4 ,shell from half to a whole pint of shrimps1 add them to the salmon1 and heat the fish very slowly in the sauce by the side of the fire1 but do not allow it boil4 ,when it is very hot1 dish and send it quickly to table4 ,french cooks1 when they re-dress fish or meat of any kind1 prepare the flesh with great nicety1 and then put it into a stewpan1 and pour the sauce upon it1 which is1 we think1 better than the more usual ,english mode of laying it into the boiling sauce4 ,the cold salmon may also be re-heated in the cream sauce of ,v41 or in the ,mitre d',htel sauce which follows it2 and will be found excellent with either4 ,this receipt is for a moderate sized dish4 ,,salmon ,,baked ,,over ,,mashed ,,potatoes4 ,we are informed by a person who has been a resident in ,ireland1 that the middle of a salmon is there often baked over mashed potatoes1 from which it is raised by means of a wire stand1 as meat is in ,england4 ,we have not been able to have it tried1 but an ingenious cook will be at no loss for the proper method of preparing1 and the time of cooking it4 ,the potatoes are sometimes merely pared and halved2 the fish is then laid upon them4 ,,salmon ,,pudding1 ,,to ,,be ,,served ,,hot ,,or ,,cold4 7,a ,scotch ,receipt--,good47 ,pound or chop small1 or rub through a sieve one pound of cold boiled salmon freed entirely from bone and skin2 and blend it lightly but thoroughly with half a pound of fine bread-crumbs a teaspoonful of essence of anchovies1 a quarter of a pint of cream1 a seasoning of fine salt and cayenne1 and four well whisked eggs4 ,press the mixture closely and evenly into a deep dish or mould1 buttered in every part1 and bake it for one hour in a moderate oven4 ,salmon1 #a lb42 bread-crumbs1 #a_/b lb42 essence of anchovies1 #a teaspoonful2 cream1 #a_/d pint2 eggs1 #d2 salt and cayenne2 baked #a hour4 ,,to ,,boil ,,cod ,,fish4 ,in highest season from ,october to the beginning of ,february2 in perfection about ,christmas4 ,when this fish is large the head and shoulders are sufficient for a handsome dish1 and they contain all the choicer portion of it1 though not so much substantial eating as the middle of the body1 which1 in consequence1 is generally preferred to them by the frugal housekeeper4 ,wash the fish1 and cleanse the inside1 and the back-bone in particular1 with the most scrupulous care2 lay it into the fish-kettle and cover it well with cold water mixed with five ounces of salt to the gallon1 and about a quarter of an ounce of saltpetre to the whole4 ,place it over a moderate fire1 clear off the scum perfectly1 and let the fish boil gently until it is done4 ,drain it well#df and dish it carefully upon a very hot napkin with the liver and the roe as a garnish4 ,to these are usually added tufts of lightly scraped horseradish round the edge4 ,serve well-made oyster sauce and plain melted butter with it2 or anchovy sauce1 when oysters cannot be procured4 ,the cream sauce of ,chapter ,v41 is also an appropriate one for this fish4 ,footnote #df3 ,this should be done by setting the fish plate across the kettle for a minute or two4 ,moderate size1 #bj to #cj minutes4 ,large1 #a_/b to #c_/d hour4 ,,slices ,,of ,,cod ,,fish ,,fried4 ,cut the middle or tail of the fish into slices nearly an inch thick1 season them with salt and white pepper or cayenne1 flour them well1 and fry them of a clear equal brown on both sides2 drain them on a sieve before the fire1 and serve them on a well-heated napkin1 with plenty of crisped parsley round them4 ,or1 dip them into beaten egg1 and then into fine crumbs mixed with a seasoning of salt and pepper 7some cooks add one of minced herbs also71 before they are fried4 ,send melted butter and anchovy sauce to table with them4 #h to #ab minutes4 ,obs4--,this is a much better way of dressing the thin part of the fish than boiling it1 and as it is generally cheap1 it makes thus an economical1 as well as a very good dish3 if the slices are lifted from the frying-pan into a good curried gravy1 and left in it by the side of the fire for a few minutes before they are sent to table1 they will be found excellent4 ,,stewed ,,cod4 ,put into boiling water1 salted as usual1 about three pounds of fresh cod fish cut into slices an inch and a half thick1 and boil them gently for five minutes2 lift them out1 and let them drain4 ,have ready heated in a wide stewpan nearly a pint of veal gravy or of very good broth1 lay in the fish1 and stew it for five minutes1 then add four tablespoonsful of extremely fine bread-crumbs1 and simmer it for three minutes longer4 ,stir well into the sauce a large teaspoonful of arrow-root quite free from lumps1 a fourth part as much of mace1 something less of cayenne1 and a tablespoonful of essence of anchovies1 mixed with a glass of white wine and a dessertspoonful of lemon juice4 ,boil the whole for a couple of minutes1 lift out the fish carefully with a slice1 pour the sauce over1 and serve it quickly4 ,cod fish1 #c lbs43 boiled #e minutes4 ,gravy1 or strong broth1 nearly #a pint3 #e minutes4 ,bread-crumbs1 #d tablespoonsful3 #c minutes4 ,arrow-root1 #a large teaspoonful2 mace1 #a_/d teaspoonful2 less of cayenne2 essence of anchovies1 #a tablespoonful2 lemon-juice1 #a dessertspoonful2 sherry or ,maidera1 #a wineglassful3 #b minutes4 ,obs4--,a dozen or two of oysters1 bearded1 and added with their strained liquor to this dish two or three minutes before it is served1 will to many tastes vary it very agreeably4 ,,stewed ,,cod ,,fish1 ,,in ,,brown ,,sauce4 ,slice the fish1 take off the skin1 flour it well1 and fry it quickly a fine brown2 lift it out and drain it on the back of a sieve1 arrange it in a clean stewpan1 and pour in as much good boiling brown gravy as will nearly cover it2 add from one to two glasses of port wine1 or rather more of claret1 a dessertspoonful of ,chili vinegar1 or the juice of half a lemon1 and some cayenne1 with as much salt as may be needed4 ,stew the fish very softly until it just begins to break1 lift it carefully with a slice into a very hot dish1 stir into the gravy an ounce and a half of butter smoothly kneaded with a large teaspoonful of flour1 and a little pounded mace1 give the sauce a minute's boil1 pour it over the fish1 and serve it immediately4 ,the wine may be omitted1 good shin of beef stock substituted for the gravy1 and a teaspoonful of soy1 one of essence of anchovies1 and two tablespoonsful of ,harvey's sauce added to flavour it4 ,,to ,,boil ,,salt ,,fish4 ,when very salt and dry1 this must be long soaked before it is boiled1 but it is generally supplied by the fishmongers nearly or quite ready to dress4 ,when it is not so1 lay it for a night into a large quantity of cold water1 then let it lie exposed to the air for some time1 then again put it into water1 and continue thus until it is well softened4 ,brush it very clean1 wash it thoroughly1 and put it with abundance of cold water into the fish kettle1 place it near the fire and let it heat very slowly indeed4 ,keep it just on the point of simmering1 without allowing it ever to boil 7which would render it hard71 from three quarters of an hour to a full hour1 according to its weight2 should it be quite small and thin1 less time will be sufficient for it2 but by following these directions1 the fish will be almost as good as if it were fresh4 ,the scum should be cleared off with great care from the beginning4 ,egg sauce and boiled parsneps are the usual accompaniment to salt fish1 which should be dished upon a hot napkin1 and which is sometimes also thickly strewed with chopped eggs4 ,,salt ,,fish1 ,,la ,m,,itre ,d',h,,tel4 ,boil the fish by the foregoing receipt1 or take the remains of that which has been served at table1 flake it off clear from the bones1 and strip away every morsel of the skin2 then lay it into a very clean saucepan or stewpan1 and pour upon it the sharp ,mitre d',htel sauce of ,chapter ,,iv42 or dissolve gently two or three ounces of butter with four or five spoonsful of water1 and a half-teaspoonful of flour2 add some pepper or cayenne1 very little salt1 and a dessertspoonful or more of minced parsley4 ,heat the fish slowly quite through in either of these sauces1 and toss or stir it until the whole is well mixed2 if the second be used1 add the juice of half a lemon1 or a small quantity of ,chili vinegar just before it is taken from the fire4 ,the fish thus prepared may be served in a deep dish1 with a border of mashed parsneps or potatoes4 ,,to ,,boil ,,cods' ,,sounds4 ,should they be highly salted1 soak them for a night1 and on the following day rub off entirely the discoloured skin2 wash them well1 lay them into plenty of cold milk and water1 and boil them gently from thirty to forty minutes1 or longer should they not be quite tender4 ,clear off the scum as it rises with great care1 or it will sink and adhere to the sounds1 of which the appearance will then be spoiled4 ,drain them well1 dish them on a napkin1 and send egg sauce and plain melted butter to table with them4 ,,to ,,fry ,,cods' ,,sounds ,,in ,,batter4 ,boil them as directed above until they are nearly done1 then lift them out1 lay them on to a drainer1 and let them remain till they are cold2 cut them across in strips of an inch deep1 curl them round1 dip them into a good ,french or ,english batter1 fry them of a fine pale brown1 drain and dry them well1 dish them on a hot napkin1 and garnish them with crisped parsley4 ,,to ,,fry ,,soles4 ,in season all the year4 ,all fish to fry well must be not only fresh but perfectly free from moisture1 particularly when they are to be dressed with egg and bread-crumbs1 as these will not otherwise adhere to them4 ,empty1 skin1 and wash the soles with extreme nicety1 from one to two hours before they are wanted for table2 and after having cleansed and wiped them very dry both inside and out1 replace the roes1 fold and press them gently in a soft clean cloth1 and leave them wrapped in it until it is time to fry them2 or suspend them singly upon hooks in a current of cool air1 which is1 perhaps1 the better method of proceeding when it can be done conveniently4 ,cover them equally in every part1 first with some beaten egg1 and then with fine dry crumbs of bread1 mixed with a very little flour to make them adhere with more certainty3 a small teaspoonful will be sufficient for two large soles4 ,melt in a large and exceedingly clean frying pan over a brisk and clear fire1 as much very pure-flavoured lard as will float the fish1 and let it be sufficiently hot before they are laid in to brown them quickly2 for if this be neglected it will be impossible to render them crisp or dry4 ,when the fat ceases to bubble1 throw in a small bit of bread1 and if it takes a good colour immediately the soles may be put in without delay4 ,an experienced cook will know1 without this test1 when it is at the proper point2 but the learner will do better to avail herself of it until practice and observation shall have rendered it unnecessary to her4 ,before the fish are laid into the pan1 take them by the head and shake the loose crumbs from them4 ,when they are firm1 and of a fine amber-colour on one side1 turn them with care1 passing a slice under them and a fork through the heads1 and brown them on the other4 ,lift them out1 and either dry them well on a soft cloth laid upon a sieve reversed1 before the fire1 turning them often1 or press them lightly in hot white blotting paper4 ,dish them on a drainer covered with a hot napkin and send them to table without delay with shrimp or anchovy sauce1 and plain melted butter4 ,very small soles will be done in six minutes1 and large ones in about ten4 ,they may be floured and fried1 without being egged and crumbed1 but this is not a very usual mode of serving them4 ,small soles1 #f minutes2 large1 about #aj minutes4 ,,to ,,boil ,,soles4 ,the flesh of a fine fresh sole1 when boiled with care1 is remarkably sweet and delicate3 if very large it may be dressed and served as turbot1 to which it will be found little inferior in flavour4 ,empty it1 take out the gills1 cut off the fins1 and cleanse and wash it with great nicety1 but do not skin it2 then either lay it into cold water in which the usual proportion of salt has been dissolved1 and heat it rather slowly1 and then simmer it from five to ten minutes1 according to its size2 or boil it in the manner directed in the first pages of this chapter4 ,drain it well on the fish-plate as it is lifted out1 and dish it on a napkin1 the white side upwards1 and serve it quickly with anchovy1 shrimp1 or lobster sauce4 ,it may also be sent to table thickly covered with the ,cream ,fish ,sauce1 ,caper ,fish ,sauce1 or ,lady's ,sauce1 of ,chapter ,,vi42 though this is a mode of service less to be recommended1 as the sauce cools more speedily when spread over the surface of the fish3 it is1 however1 the continental fashion1 and will therefore find more favour with some persons4 ,very large sole1 #e to #aj minutes2 moderate sized1 #d to #f minutes4 ,,fillets ,,of ,,soles4 ,the word fillet1 whether applied to fish1 poultry1 game1 or butcher's meat1 means simply the flesh of either 7or of certain portions of it71 raised clear from the bones in a handsome form1 and divided or not1 as the manner in which it is to be served may require4 ,it is an elegant mode of dressing various kinds of fish1 and even those which are not the most highly esteemed1 afford an excellent dish when thus prepared4 ,soles to be filletted with advantage should be large2 the flesh may then be divided down the middle of the back1 next1 separated from the fins1 and with a very sharp knife raised clear from the bones4#dg ,when thus prepared1 the fillets may be divided1 trimmed into a good form1 egged1 covered with fine crumbs1 fried in the usual way1 and served with the same sauces as the whole fish2 or each fillet may be rolled up1 in its entire length1 if very small1 or after being once divided if large1 and fastened with a slight twine1 or a short thin skewer2 then egged1 crumbed1 and fried in plenty of boiling lard2 or merely well floured and fried from eight to ten minutes4 ,when the fish are not very large1 they are sometimes boned without being parted in the middle1 and each side is rolled from the tail to the head1 after being first spread with pounded shrimps mixed with a third of their volume of butter1 a few bread-crumbs1 and a high seasoning of mace and cayenne2 or with pounded lobster mixed with a large portion of the coral1 and the same seasoning1 and proportion of butter as the shrimps2 then laid into a dish1 with the ingredients directed for the soles au plat2 well covered with crumbs of bread and clarified butter1 and baked from twelve to sixteen minutes1 or until the crumbs are coloured to a fine brown in a moderate oven4 ,footnote #dg3 ,a celebrated ,french cook gives the following instructions for raising these fillets3--8them up by running your knife first between the bones and the flesh1 then between the skin and the fillet2 by leaning pretty hard on the table they will come off very neatly40 ,the fillets may likewise be cut into small strips or squares of uniform size1 lightly dredged with pepper or cayenne1 salt and flour1 and fried in butter over a brisk fire2 then well drained1 and sauced with a good bchamel1 flavoured with a teaspoonful of minced parsley4 ,,soles ,,au ,,plat4 ,clarify from two to three ounces of fresh butter1 and pour it into the dish in which the fish are to be served2 add to it a little salt1 some cayenne1 a teaspoonful of essence of anchovies1 and from one to two glasses of sherry1 or of any other dry white wine2 lay in a couple of fine soles which have been well cleaned and wiped very dry1 strew over them a thick layer of fine bread-crumbs1 moisten them with clarified butter1 set the dish into a moderate oven1 and bake the fish for a quarter of an hour4 ,a layer of shrimps placed between the soles is a great improvement2 and we would also recommend a little lemon-juice to be mixed with the sauce4 ,baked1 #ae minutes4 ,obs4--,the soles are1 we think1 better without the wine in this receipt4 ,they require but a small portion of liquid1 which might be supplied by a little additional butter1 a spoonful of water or pale gravy1 the lemon-juice1 and store-sauce4 ,minced parsley may be mixed with the bread-crumbs when it is liked4 ,,baked ,,soles4 7,a simple but excellent ,receipt47 ,fresh large soles1 dressed in the following manner1 are remarkably tender and delicate eating2 much more so than those which are fried4 ,after the fish has been skinned and cleansed in the usual way1 wipe it dry1 and let it remain for an hour or more1 if time will permit1 closely folded in a clean cloth2 then mix with a slightly beaten egg about an ounce of butter1 just liquefied but not heated at the mouth of the oven1 or before the fire2 brush the fish in every part with this mixture1 and cover it with very fine dry bread-crumbs1 seasoned with a little salt1 cayenne1 pounded mace1 and nutmeg4 ,pour a teaspoonful or two of liquid butter into a flat dish which will contain the fish well2 lay it in1 sprinkle it with a little more butter1 press the bread-crumbs lightly on it with a broad-bladed knife1 and bake it in a moderate oven for about twenty minutes4 ,if two or more soles are required for table at the same time1 they should be placed separately1 quite flat1 in a large dish1 or each fish should be laid on a dish by itself4 ,on our first essay of this receipt1 the fish dressed by it 7it was baked for twenty-five minutes in a very slack iron oven7 proved infinitely nicer than one of the same size which was fried1 and served with it4 ,the difference between them was very marked1 especially as regarded the exceeding tenderness of the flesh of that which was baked2 its appearance1 however1 would have been somewhat improved by a rather quicker oven4 ,when ready to serve1 it should be gently glided on to the dish in which it is to be sent to table4 ,about three ounces of bread-crumbs1 and two and a half of butter1 will be sufficient for a large pair of soles4 ,they will be more perfectly encrusted with the bread if dipped into1 or sprinkled with it a second time1 after the first coating has been well moistened with the butter4 ,,soles ,,stewed ,,in ,,cream4 ,prepare some very fresh middling sized soles with exceeding nicety1 put them into boiling water slightly salted1 and simmer them for two minutes only2 lift them out1 and let them drain2 lay them into a wide stewpan with as much sweet rich cream as will nearly cover them2 add a good seasoning of pounded mace1 cayenne1 and salt2 stew the fish softly from six to ten minutes1 or until the flesh parts readily from the bones2 dish them1 stir the juice of half a lemon to the sauce1 pour it over the soles1 and send them immediately to table4 ,some lemon-rind may be boiled in the cream1 if approved2 and a small teaspoonful of arrow-root1 very smoothly mixed with a little milk1 may be stirred to the sauce 7should it require thickening7 before the lemon-juice is added4 ,turbot and brill also may be dressed by this receipt1 time proportioned to their size being of course allowed for them4 ,soles1 #c or #d3 boiled in water #b minutes4 ,cream1 #a_/b to whole pint2 salt1 mace1 cayenne3 fish stewed1 #f to #aj minutes4 ,juice of half a lemon4 ,obs4--,in ,cornwall the fish is laid at once into thick clotted cream1 and stewed entirely in it2 but this method gives to the sauce1 which ought to be extremely delicate1 a coarse fishy flavour which the previous boil in water prevents4 ,at ,penzance1 grey mullet1 after being scaled1 are divided in the middle1 just covered with cold water1 and softly boiled1 with the addition of branches of parsley1 pepper and salt1 until the flesh of the back parts easily from the bone2 clotted cream1 minced parsley1 and lemon-juice are then added to the sauce1 and the mullets are dished with the heads and tails laid even to the thick parts of the back1 where the fish were cut asunder4 ,hake1 too1 is there divided at every joint 7having previously been scaled71 dipped into egg1 then thickly covered with fine bread-crumbs mixed with plenty of minced parsley1 and fried a fine brown2 or1 the back-bone being previously taken out1 the fish is sliced into cutlets1 and then fried4 ,,to ,,fry ,,whitings4 ,in full season from ,michaelmas to beginning of ,february4 ,clean1 skin1 and dry them thoroughly in a cloth1 fasten their tails to their mouths1 brush slightly beaten eggs equally over them1 and cover them with the finest bread-crumbs1 mixed with a little flour2 fry them a clear golden brown in plenty of boiling lard1 drain and dry them well1 dish them on a hot napkin1 and serve them with good melted butter1 and the sauce cruets1 or with well made shrimp or anchovy sauce4 ,a small half-teaspoonful of salt should be beaten up with the eggs used in preparing the whitings3 two will be sufficient for half a dozen fish4 #e to #h minutes1 according to their size4 ,,fillets ,,of ,,whitings4 ,empty and wash thoroughly1 but do not skin the fish4 ,take off the flesh on both sides close to the bones1 passing the knife from the tail to the head2 divide each side in two1 trim the fillets into good shape1 and fold them in a cloth1 that the moisture may be well absorbed from them2 dip them into1 or draw them through1 some beaten egg1 then dip them into fine crumbs mixed with a small portion of flour1 and fry them a fine light brown in lard or clarified butter2 drain them well1 press them in white blotting-paper1 dish them one over the other in a circle1 and send the usual sauce to table with them4 ,the fillets may also be broiled after being dipped into eggs seasoned with salt and pepper1 then into crumbs of bread1 next into clarified butter1 and a second time into the bread-crumbs 7or1 to shorten the process1 a portion of clarified butter may be mixed with the eggs at first71 and served with good melted butter1 or thickened veal gravy seasoned with cayenne1 lemon-juice1 and chopped parsley4 ,five minutes will fry the fillets1 even when very large rather more time will be required to broil them4 ,,to ,,boil ,,whitings4 7,french ,receipt7 ,having scraped1 cleansed1 and wiped them1 lay them on a fish-plate1 and put them into water at the point of boiling2 throw in a handful of salt1 two bay leaves1 and plenty of parsley well washed and tied together2 let the fish just simmer from five to ten minutes1 and watch them closely that they may not be overdone4 ,serve parsley and butter with them1 and use in making it the liquor in which the whitings have been boiled4 ,just simmered from #e to #aj minutes4 ,,baked ,,whitings ,,la ,,fran,,aise4 ,proceed with these exactly as with the soles au plat of this chapter2 or1 pour a little clarified butter into a deep dish1 and strew it rather thickly with finely-minced mushrooms mixed with a teaspoonful of parsley1 and 7when the flavour is liked1 and considered appropriate7 with an eschalot or two1 or the white part of a few green onions1 also chopped very small4 ,on these place the fish after they have been scaled1 emptied1 thoroughly washed1 and wiped dry3 season them well with salt and white pepper1 or cayenne2 sprinkle more of the herbs upon them2 pour gently from one to two glasses of light white wine into the dish1 cover the whitings with a thick layer of fine crumbs of bread1 sprinkle these plentifully with clarified butter1 and bake the fish from fifteen to twenty minutes4 ,send a cut lemon only to table with them4 ,when the wine is not liked1 a few spoonsful of pale veal gravy can be used instead2 or a larger quantity of clarified butter1 with a tablespoonful of water1 a teaspoonful of lemon-pickle and of mushroom catsup1 and a few drops of soy4 #ae to #bj minutes4 ,,to ,,boil ,,mackerel4 ,in full season in ,may1 ,june1 and ,july2 may be had also in early spring4 ,illustration3 ,mackerel4 ,open the fish sufficiently to admit of the insides being perfectly cleansed1 but not more than is necessary for this purpose2 empty them with care1 lay the roes apart1 and wash both them and the mackerel delicately clean4 ,it is customary now to lay these1 and the greater number of other fish as well1 into cold water when they are to be boiled2 formerly all were plunged at once into fast-boiling water4 ,for such as are small and delicate1 it should be hot2 they should be brought gently to boil1 and simmered until they are done2 the scum should be cleared off as it rises1 and the usual proportion of salt stirred into the water before the mackerel are put in4 ,the roes are commonly replaced in the fish2 but as they sometimes require more boiling than the mackerel themselves1 it is better1 when they are very large1 to lay them upon the fish-plate by their sides4 ,from fifteen to twenty minutes will generally be sufficient to boil a full-sized mackerel some will be done in less time2 but they must be watched and lifted out as soon as the tails split1 and the eyes are starting4 ,dish them on a napkin1 and send fennel or gooseberry sauce to table with them1 and plain melted butter also4 ,small mackerel1 #aj to #ae minutes2 large1 #ae to #bj minutes4 ,,to ,,bake ,,mackerel4 ,after they have been cleaned and well washed1 wipe them very dry1 fill the insides with the forcemeat1 ,no4 #a of ,chapter ,,viii41 sew them up1 arrange them1 with the roes1 closely together in a coarse baking-dish1 flour them lightly1 strew a little fine salt over1 and stick bits of butter upon them2 or pour some equally over them1 after having just dissolved it in a small saucepan4 ,half an hour in a moderate oven will bake them4 ,oyster forcemeat is always appropriate for any kind of fish which is in season while the oysters are so2 but the mackerel are commonly served1 and are very good with that which we have named4 ,lift them carefully into a hot dish after they are taken from the oven1 and send melted butter and a cut lemon to table with them4 #a_/b hour4 ,,baked ,,mackerel1 ,,or ,,whitings4 7,cinderella's ,receipt--good47 ,the fish for this receipt should be opened only so much as will permit of their being emptied and perfectly cleansed4 ,wash and wipe them dry1 then fold them in a soft cloth1 and let them remain in it awhile4 ,replace the roes1 and put the fish into a baking-dish of suitable size1 with a tablespoonful of wine1 a few drops of chili vinegar1 a little salt and cayenne1 and about half an ounce of butter1 well-blended with a saltspoonful of flour1 for each fish4 ,they must be turned round with the heads and tails towards each other1 that they may lie compactly in the dish1 and the backs should be placed downwards1 that the sauce may surround the thickest part of the flesh4 ,lay two buttered papers over1 and press them down upon them2 set the dish into a gentle oven for twenty minutes1 take off the papers1 and send the fish to table in their sauce4 ,a few minutes more of time must be allowed for mackerel when it is large1 should the oven be very slow4 ,full-sized whitings are excellent thus dressed if carefully managed1 and many eaters would infinitely prefer mackerel so prepared1 to boiled ones4 ,the writer has port-wine always used for the sauce1 to which a rather full seasoning of chili vinegar1 cayenne1 and pounded mace1 is added2 but sherry1 ,bucellas1 or any other dry wine1 can be used instead2 and the various condiments added to it1 can be varied to the taste4 ,this receipt is a very convenient one1 as it is prepared with little trouble1 and a stove-oven1 if the heat be properly moderated1 will answer for the baking4 ,it is an advantage to take off the heads of the fish before they are dressed1 and they may then be entirely emptied without being opened4 ,when preferred so1 they can be re-dished for table1 and the sauce poured over them4 ,obs4--,the dish in which they are baked1 should be buttered before they are laid in4 ,,fried ,,mackerel4 7,common ,french ,receipt47 ,after the fish have been emptied and washed extremely clean1 cut off the heads and tails1 split the bodies quite open1 and take out the backbones 7we recommend in preference that the flesh should be taken off the bones as in the following receipt71 wipe the mackerel very dry1 dust fine salt and pepper 7or cayenne7 over them1 flour them well1 fry them a fine brown in boiling lard1 drain them thoroughly1 and serve them with the following sauce3--,dissolve in a small saucepan an ounce and a half of butter smoothly mixed with a teaspoonful of flour1 some salt1 pepper1 or cayenne2 shake these over a gentle fire until they are lightly coloured1 then add by slow degrees nearly half a pint of good broth or gravy1 and the juice of one large lemon2 boil the sauce for a couple of minutes1 and serve it very hot4 ,or1 instead of this1 add a large teaspoonful of strong made mustard1 and a dessertspoonful of chili vinegar1 to some thick melted butter1 and serve it with the fish4 ,a spoonful of ,harvey's sauce or of mushroom catsup can be mixed with this last at pleasure4 ,,fillets ,,of ,,mackerel4 7,fried or ,broiled47 ,take off the flesh quite whole on either side1 from three fine mackerel1 which have been opened and properly cleaned2 let it be entirely free from bone1 dry it well in a cloth1 then divide each part in two1 and dip them into the beaten yolks of a couple of eggs1 seasoned with salt and white pepper1 or cayenne2 cover them equally with fine dry crumbs of bread1 and fry them like soles2 or dip them into clarified butter1 and then again into the crumbs1 and broil them over a very clear fire of a fine brown4 ,dish them in a circle one over the other1 and send them to table with the ,mitre d',htel sauce of ,chapter ,v41 or with the one which follows it4 ,the ,french pour the sauce into the centre of the dish2 but for broiled fillets this is not so well1 we think1 as serving it in a tureen4 ,the roes of the fish1 after being well washed and soaked1 may be dressed with them1 or they may be made into patties4 ,minced parsley can be mixed with the bread-crumbs when it is liked4 ,,boiled ,,fillets ,,of ,,mackerel4 ,after having taken off and divided the flesh of the fish1 as above1 place it flat in one layer in a wide stewpan or saucepan1 and just cover the fillets with cold water2 throw in a teaspoonful of salt1 and two or three small sprigs of parsley2 bring the mackerel slowly to a boil1 clear off the scum with care1 and after two or three minutes of slow simmering try the fillets with a fork2 if the thick part divides with a touch1 they are done4 ,lift them out cautiously with a slice2 drain1 and serve them very hot with good parsley and butter2 or strip off the skin quickly1 and pour a ,mitre d',htel sauce over them4 ,,mackerel ,,broiled ,,whole4 7,an excellent ,receipt47 ,empty and cleanse perfectly a fine and very fresh mackerel1 but without opening it more than is needful2 dry it well1 either in a cloth or by hanging it in a cool air until it is stiff2 make with a sharp knife a deep incision the whole length of the fish on either side of the back bone1 and about half an inch from it1 and with a feather put in a little cayenne and fine salt1 mixed with a few drops of good salad oil or clarified butter4 ,lay the mackerel over a moderate fire upon a well-heated gridiron which has been rubbed with suet2 loosen it gently should it stick1 which it will do unless often moved2 and when it is equally done on both sides1 turn the back to the fire4 ,about half an hour will broil it well4 ,if a sheet of thickly-buttered writing-paper be folded round it1 and just twisted at the ends before it is laid on the gridiron1 it will be finer eating than if exposed to the fire2 but sometimes when this is done1 the skin will adhere to the paper1 and be drawn off with it1 which injures its appearance4 ,a cold ,mitre d',htel sauce 7see ,chapter ,v471 may be put into the back before it is sent to table4 ,this is one of the very best modes of dressing a mackerel1 which in flavour is quite a different fish when thus prepared to one which is simply boiled4 ,a drop of oil is sometimes passed over the skin to prevent its sticking to the iron4 ,it may be laid to the fire after having been merely cut as we have directed1 when it is preferred so4 #cj minutes2 #be if small4 ,,mackerel ,,stewed ,,with ,,wine4 7,very good47 ,work very smoothly together a large teaspoonful of flour with two ounces of butter1 put them into a stewpan1 and stir or shake them round over the fire until the butter is dissolved2 add a quarter of a teaspoonful of mace1 twice as much salt1 and some cayenne2 pour in by slow degrees three glasses of claret2 and when the sauce boils1 lay in a couple of fine mackerel well cleaned1 and wiped quite dry2 stew them very softly from fifteen to twenty minutes1 and turn them when half done2 lift them out1 and dish them carefully2 stir a teaspoonful of made mustard to the sauce1 give it a boil1 and pour it over the fish4 ,when more convenient1 substitute port wine and a little lemon-juice1 for the claret4 ,mackerel1 #b2 flour1 #a teaspoonful2 butter1 #b oz42 seasoning of salt1 mace1 and cayenne2 claret1 #c wineglassesful2 made mustard1 #a teaspoonful3 #ae to #bj minutes4 ,,fillets ,,of ,,mackerel ,,stewed ,,in ,,wine4 7,excellent47 ,raise the flesh entire from the bones on either side of the mackerel1 and divide it once1 if the fish be small1 but cut the whole into six parts of equal size should they be large4 ,mix with flour1 and dissolve the butter as in the preceding receipt2 and when it has simmered for a minute1 throw in the spice1 a little salt1 and the thinly pared rind of half a small fresh lemon1 lay in the fillets of fish1 shake them over a gentle fire from four to five minutes1 and turn them once in the time2 then pour to them in small portions a couple of large wineglassesful of port wine1 a tablespoonful of ,harvey's sauce1 a teaspoonful of soy1 and one of lemon-juice2 stew the mackerel very softly until the thinner parts begin to break1 lift them out with care1 dish and serve them in their sauce as hot as possible4 ,we can recommend the dish to our readers as a very excellent one4 ,a garnish of fried sippets can be placed round the fish at will4 ,a teaspoonful of made mustard should be stirred to the sauce before it is poured over the fish4 ,fillets of mackerel1 #b2 butter1 #b oz42 flour1 #a teaspoonful2 rind of #a_/b lemon2 salt1 cayenne1 pounded mace3 #b minutes4 ,fish1 #d to #e minutes4 ,port wine1 two large glassesful2 ,harvey's sauce1 #a tablespoonful2 soy and lemon-juice each1 #a teaspoonful3 #d to #f minutes4 ,mustard1 #a teaspoonful4 ,obs4--,trout may be dressed by this receipt4 ,,to ,,boil ,,haddocks4 ,in the best season in ,october1 ,november1 and ,december4 ,illustration3 ,haddock4 ,scrape the outsides very clean1 open the fish1 empty them1 wash the insides thoroughly1 take out the gillet1 curl the haddocks round1 fasten the tails to the mouths1 arrange them on a fish-plate1 and lay them into hot water salted as for mackerel4 ,take off all the scum1 and simmer them from seven to ten minutes or longer1 according to their size1 which1 as we have said in the directions for 8the best mode of cooking various kind of fish10 at the commencement of this chapter1 varies greatly1 as they are sometimes very large2 they must then be brought more slowly to boil1 and more time must be allowed for them4 ,send them very hot to table1 with a tureen of melted butter1 and one of anchovy sauce4 #g to #aj minutes4 ,obs4--,in ,scotland haddocks are skinned before they are boiled1 and the heads are taken off2 but we see no advantage in this mode of dressing them4 ,whitings1 fresh herrings1 and codlings1 may all be dressed by this receipt1 the time only being varied according to the size of the fish4 ,,baked ,,haddocks ,after they have been cleaned1 dry them thoroughly1 then bake them1 as directed in the common receipt for pike1 or fill them with oyster forcemeat1 or with ,no4 #a of ,chapter ,,viii41 if more convenient1 and proceed as for baked mackerel4 #bj to #cj minutes2 longer if very large4 ,,to ,,fry ,,haddocks ,follow the directions given for fillets of whitings2 or1 should a more simple method be preferred1 clean and dry the fish well1 cut off the heads and tails1 take out the backbones1 cut each fish in three1 egg and crumb them1 fry them in boiling lard a fine golden brown1 and serve them1 well drained and dried1 with the same sauces as boiled haddocks4 ,,to ,,dress ,,finnan ,,haddocks4 ,these are slightly salted and dried4 ,they are excellent eating1 if gently heated through upon the gridiron without being hardened2 and are served usually at the breakfast or supper table2 a feather dipped in oil may be passed over them before they are laid to the fire4 ,,to ,,boil ,,gurnards4 7,with directions for dressing them in other ways47 ,illustration3 ,gurnard4 ,it is more usual to fill gurnards with forcemeat1 and to bake them1 or to have the flesh raised from the bones and dressed in fillets1 than to serve them simply boiled2 they may1 however1 be cooked in any of the modes directed for mackerel1#dh rather more time being allowed for them1 as they are much firmer-fleshed1 thicker in the bodies1 and generally of larger size altogether4 ,cut off all the fins1 take out the gills1 and empty and cleanse them like other fish1 washing the insides well2 put them into hot water ready salted and skimmed1 and boil them gently from twenty minutes to half an hour2 serve them with anchovy sauce1 or with parsley and butter rendered acid with chili vinegar1 lemon-juice1 or caper-pickle4 ,footnote #dh3 ,whitings or haddocks4 ,,fresh ,,herrings4 7,farleigh ,receipt47 ,in season from ,may to ,october4 ,scale and clean the fish with the utmost nicety1 split them quite open1 and wash the insides with particular care2 dry them well in a cloth1 take off the heads and tails1 and remove the backbones2 rub the insides with pepper1 salt1 and a little pounded mace2 stick small bits of butter on them1 and skewer two of the fish together as flat as possible1 with the skin of both outside2 flour1 and broil or fry them of a fine brown1 and serve them with melted butter mixed with a teaspoonful or more of mustard1 some salt1 and a little vinegar or lemon-juice4 ,to broil from #bj to #be minutes2 to fry about #aj minutes4 ,,to ,,dress ,,the ,,sea ,,bream4 ,illustration3 ,sea ,bream4 ,the sea-bream1 which is common in many of our markets1 is not considered a fish of first-rate quality2 but if well broiled or baked1 it will afford a good1 and generally a cheap1 dish of excellent appearance1 the bream being of handsome size and form4 ,open and cleanse it perfectly1 but do not remove the scales2 fold it in a dry cloth to absorb the moisture which hangs about it2 lay it over a gentle fire1 and broil it slowly1 that the heat may gradually penetrate the flesh1 which is thick4 ,should any cracks appear on the surface1 dredge a little flour upon them4 ,if of ordinary weight1 the bream will require quite half an hour's broiling2 it should be turned1 of course1 when partially done4 ,send plain melted butter and anchovy sauce to table with it4 ,in carving it1 remove the skin and scales1 and serve only the flesh which lies beneath them1 and which will be very white and succulent4 ,a more usual and less troublesome mode of dressing the bream is to season the inside slightly with salt and pepper or cayenne1 to dust a little more salt on the outside1 spread a few bits of butter upon it1 and send it to a gentle oven4 ,it is sometimes filled with common veal-stuffing1 and then requires to be rather longer baked2 and it is often merely wrapped in a buttered paper1 and placed in a moderate oven for twenty-five or thirty minutes4 ,,to ,,boil ,,plaice ,,or ,,flounders4 ,plaice in season from ,may to ,january2 flounders in ,september1 ,october1 and ,november4 ,illustration3 ,plaice4 ,after having emptied and well cleaned the fish1 make an incision in the back as directed for turbot2 lay them into cold spring water2 add salt and saltpetre in the same proportion as for cod fish1 and let them just simmer for four or five minutes after the water first begins to boil1 or longer should their size require it1 but guard against their being broken4 ,serve them with plain melted butter4 #d to #e minutes2 longer if needful4 ,,to ,,fry ,,plaice ,,or ,,flounders4 ,sprinkle them with salt1 and let them lie for two or three hours before they are dressed4 ,wash and clean them thoroughly1 wipe them very dry1 flour them well1 and wipe them again with a clean cloth2 dip them into egg1 and fine bread-crumbs1 and fry them in plenty of lard4 ,if the fish be large1 raise the flesh in handsome fillets from the bones1 and finish them as directed for fillets of soles4 ,obs4--,plaice is said to be rendered less watery by beating it gently with a paste-roller before it is cooked4 ,it is very sweet and pleasant in flavour while it is in the best season1 which is from the end of ,may to about ,september4 ,,to ,,roast1 ,,bake1 ,,or ,,broil ,,red ,,mullet4 ,in best season through the summer3 may be had all the year4 ,illustration3 ,red ,mullet4 ,first wash and then dry the fish thoroughly in a cloth1 but neither scale nor open it1 but take out the gills gently and carefully with the small intestine which will adhere to them2 wrap it closely in a sheet of thickly buttered paper1 tie this securely at the ends1 and over the mullet with packthread1 and roast it in a ,dutch oven1 or broil it over a clear and gentle fire1 or bake it in a moderate oven3 from twenty to twenty-five minutes will be sufficient generally to dress it in either way4 ,for sauce1 put into a little good melted butter the liquor which has flowed from the fish1 a small dessertspoonful of essence of anchovies1 some cayenne1 a glass of port wine1 or claret1 and a little lemon-juice4 ,remove the packthread1 and send the mullet to table in the paper case4 ,this is the usual mode of serving it1 but it is dished without the paper for dinners of taste4 ,the plain red mullet1 shown at the commencement of this receipt1 is scarcely ever found upon our coast4 ,that which abounds here during the summer months is the striped red mullet1 or surmullet1 which1 from its excellence1 is always in request1 and is therefore seldom cheap4 ,it rarely exceeds twelve1 or at the utmost fourteen1 inches in length4 #bj to #cj minutes4 ,,to ,,boil ,,grey ,,mullet4 ,illustration3 ,grey ,mullet4 ,this fish varies so much in size and quality1 that it is difficult to give exact directions for the time of cooking it4 ,when quite young and small1 it may be boiled by the receipt for whitings1 haddocks1 and other fish of about their size2 but at its finest growth it must be laid into cold water1 and managed like larger fish4 ,we have ourselves partaken of one which was caught upon our eastern coast1 that weighed ten pounds1 of which the flesh was quite equal to that of salmon1 but its weight was1 we believe1 an unusual one4 ,anchovy1 or caper fish sauce1 with melted butter1 may be sent to table with grey mullet4 ,,the ,,gar-,,fish4 ,illustration3 ,gar-,fish4 ,this is a fish of very singular appearance1 elongated in form1 and with a mouth which resembles the bill of the snipe1 from which circumstance it is often called the snipe-fish4 ,its bones are all of a bright green colour4 ,it is not to be recommended for the table1 as the skin contains an oil of exceedingly strong rank flavour2 when entirely divested of this1 the flesh is tolerably sweet and palatable4 ,persons who may be disposed from curiosity to taste it will find either broiling or baking in a gentle oven the best mode of cooking it4 ,it should be curled round1 and the tail fastened into the bill4 ,as it is not of large size1 from fifteen to twenty minutes will dress it sufficiently4 ,anchovy sauce1 parsley and butter1 or plain melted butter1 may be eaten with it4 ,,sand-,,launce1 ,,or1 ,,sand-,,eel4 ,illustration3 ,sand-,eel4 ,the sand-launce1 which is abundant on many parts of our coast1 and the name of which is derived from its habit of burrowing in the sands when the tide retires1 may be distinguished from the larger species1 the true sand-eel1 by its lighter colour and more transparent appearance1 as well as by its inferior size4 ,the common mode of dressing the fish1 which is considered by many a great delicacy1 is to divest them of their heads1 and to remove the insides with the gills1 to dry them well in a cloth with flour1 and to fry them until crisp4 ,they are sometimes also dipped in batter like smelts4 ,we have not ourselves had an opportunity of testing them1 but we have received the particulars which we have given here from various friends who have resided where they were plentiful4 ,the sand-eels are not so good as the smaller kind of these fish called launces4 ,,to ,,fry ,,smelts4 ,in season from beginning of ,november to ,may4 ,smelts when quite fresh have a perfume resembling that of a cucumber1 and a peculiarly delicate and agreeable flavour when dressed4 ,draw them at the gills1 as they must not be opened2 wash and dry them thoroughly in a cloth2 dip them into beaten egg-yolk1 and then into the finest bread-crumbs1 mixed with a very small quantity of flour2 fry them of a clear golden brown1 and serve them crisp and dry1 with good melted butter in a tureen4 ,they are sometimes dipped into batter and then fried2 when this is done1 we would recommend for them the ,french batter of ,chapter ,v4 #c to #d minutes4 ,,baked ,,smelts4 ,prepare them as for frying2 pour some clarified butter into the dish in which they are to be sent to table1 arrange them neatly in it1 with the tails meeting in the centre1 strew over them as much salt1 mace1 and cayenne1 mixed1 as will season them agreeably1 cover them smoothly with a rather thick layer of very fine bread-crumbs1 moisten them equally with clarified butter poured through a small strainer1 and bake the fish in a moderately quick oven1 until the crumbs are of a fine light brown4 ,a glass of sherry1 half a teaspoonful of essence of anchovies1 and a dessertspoonful of lemon-juice1 are sometimes poured into the dish before the smelts are laid in4 ,about #aj minutes4 ,,to ,,dress ,,white ,,bait4 7,greenwich ,receipt47 ,in season in ,july1 ,august1 and ,september4 ,this delicate little fish requires great care to dress it well4 ,do not touch it with the hands1 but throw it from your dish or basket into a cloth1 with three or four handsful of flour1 and shake it well2 then put it into a bait sieve1 to separate it from the superfluous flour4 ,have ready a very deep frying-pan1 nearly full of boiling fat1 throw in the fish1 which will be done in an instant3 they must not be allowed to take any colour1 for if browned1 they are spoiled4 ,lift them out1 and dish them upon a silver or earthenware drainer1 without a napkin1 piling them very high in the centre4 ,send them to table with a cut lemon1 and slices of brown bread and butter4 ,,water ,,souchy4 7,greenwich ,receipt47 ,this is a very simple and inexpensive dish1 much served at the regular fish-dinners for which ,greenwich is celebrated1 as well as at private tables4 ,it is excellent if well prepared2 and as it may be made with fish of various kinds when they are too small to present a good appearance or to be palatable dressed in any other way1 it is also very economical4 ,flounders1 perch1 tench1 and eels1 are said to answer best for water souchy2 but very delicate soles1 and several other varieties of small white fish are often used for it with good effect3 it is often made also with slices of salmon1 or of salmon-peel1 freed from the skin4 ,throw into rather more than sufficient water to just cover the quantity of fish required for table1 from half to three quarters of an ounce of salt to the quart1 a dozen corns of white pepper1 a small bunch of green parsley1 and two or three tender parsley roots1 first cut into inch lengths1 and then split to the size of straws4 ,simmer the mixture until these last are tender1 which will be in from half to a whole hour2 then lay in the fish delicately cleaned1 cleared from every morsel of brown skin1 and divided into equal portions of about two inches in width4 ,take off all the scum as it rises1 and stew the fish softly from eight to twelve minutes1 watching it that it may not break from being overdone4 ,two minutes before it is dished1 strew in a large tablespoonful or more of minced parsley1 or some small branches of the herb boiled very green in a separate saucepan 7we prefer the latter mode72 lift out the fish carefully with a slice1 and the parsley roots with it2 pour over it the liquor in which it has been boiled1 but leave out the peppercorns4 ,for a superior water souchy1 take all the bones out of the fish1 and stew down the inferior portions of it to a strong broth3 about an hour will be sufficient for this4 ,salt1 parsley1 and a little cayenne may be added to it4 ,strain it off clear through a sieve1 and use it instead of water for the souchy4 ,the juice of half a good lemon may be thrown into the stew before it is served4 ,a deep dish will of course be required for it4 ,the parsley-roots can be boiled apart when more convenient1 but they give an agreeable flavour when added to the liquor at first4 ,slices of brown or white bread and butter must be sent to table always with water souchy3 the first is usually preferred1 but to suit all tastes some of each may be served with it4 ,,shad1 ,,touraine ,,fashion4 7,alose la mode de ,touraine47 ,in season in ,april1 ,may1 and early part of ,june4 ,empty and wash the fish with care1 but do not open it more than is needful2 fill it either with the forcemeat ,no4 #a1 or ,no4 #b of ,chapter ,,viii41 and its own roe2 then sew it up1 or fasten it securely with very fine skewers1 wrap it in a thickly buttered paper1 and broil it gently for an hour over a charcoal fire4 ,serve it with caper sauce1 or with chili vinegar and melted butter4 ,we are indebted for this receipt to a friend who has been long resident in ,touraine1 at whose table the fish is constantly served thus dressed1 and is considered excellent4 ,it is likewise often gently stewed in the light white wine of the country1 and served covered with a rich bchamel4 ,many fish more common with us than the shad might be advantageously prepared in the same manner4 ,the charcoal fire is not indispensable3 any one that is entirely free from smoke will answer4 ,we would suggest as an improvement1 that oyster-forcemeat should be substituted for that which we have indicated1 until the oyster season ends4 ,broiled gently1 #a hour1 more or less1 according to the size4 ,,stewed ,,trout4 7,good common ,receipt47 ,in season from ,may to ,august4 ,illustration3 ,trout4 ,melt three ounces of butter in a broad stewpan1 or well tinned iron saucepan1 stir to it a tablespoonful of flour1 some mace1 cayenne1 and nutmeg2 lay in the fish after it has been emptied1 washed very clean1 and wiped perfectly dry2 shake it in the pan1 that it may not stick1 and when lightly browned on both sides1 pour in three quarters of a pint of good veal stock1 add a small faggot of parsley1 one bay leaf1 a roll of lemon-peel1 and a little salt3 stew the fish very gently from half to three quarters of an hour1 or more1 should it be unusually fine4 ,dish the trout1 skim the fat from the gravy1 and pass it through a hot strainer over the fish1 which should be served immediately4 ,a little acid can be added to the sauce at pleasure1 and a glass of wine when it is considered an improvement4 ,this receipt is for one large or for two middling-sized fish4 ,we can recommend it as a good one from our own experience4 ,butter1 #c oz42 flour1 #a tablespoonful2 seasoning of mace1 cayenne1 and nutmeg2 trout1 #a large1 or #b moderate-sized2 veal stock1 #c_/d pint2 parsley1 small faggot2 #a bay-leaf2 roll of lemon-rind2 little salt3 #a_/b to #c_/d hour4 ,obs4--,trout may be stewed in equal parts of strong veal gravy1 and of red or white wine1 without having been previously browned2 the sauce should then be thickened1 and agreeably flavoured with lemon-juice1 and the usual store-sauces1 before it is poured over the fish4 ,they are also good when wrapped in buttered paper1 and baked or broiled3 if very small1 the better mode of cooking them is to fry them whole4 ,they should never be plain boiled1 as1 though naturally a delicious fish1 they are then very insipid4 ,,to ,,boil ,,pike4 ,in best season from ,september to ,february4 ,illustration3 ,pike4 ,take out the gills1 empty and clean the fish very thoroughly1 and soak it for half an hour with a cup of vinegar thrown into as much water as will cover it well1 should there be any danger of its having a muddy taste4#di ,wipe the inside dry1 and fill it with oyster-forcemeat1 or with common veal forcemeat made either with butter or with suet 7for which see ,chapter ,,viii472 curl the fish round1 and fasten it with the tail in the mouth1 lay it on a fish-plate1 cover it well with cold water1 throw in some salt as soon as it boils1 skim it well1 and boil the fish gently from half to a whole hour according to its size4 ,some persons prefer the scales taken off the pike when it is prepared for this mode of dressing2 and many cooks still put the fish into boiling water well salted and skimmed4 ,serve it with plain melted butter1 or anchovy sauce4 ,footnote #di3 ,soaking fish is always better avoided when it can be so2 well washing the inside with strong vinegar would perhaps remove the objectionable flavour without it4 ,moderate sized1 #a_/b hour2 large1 #a hour4 ,obs4--,we must repeat that it is impossible to give for fish which varies so much in quality as well as in size1 directions for the exact time which is required to cook it2 a few minutes1 more or less1 must often be allowed2 and it should always be watched attentively1 and lifted from the water as soon as it is done4 ,,to ,,bake ,,pike4 7,common ,receipt47 ,pour warm water over the outside of the fish1 and wipe it very clean with a coarse cloth drawn from the head downwards1 that the scales may not be disturbed2 then wash it well in cold water1 empty1 and cleanse the inside with the greatest nicety1 fill it either with the common forcemeat ,no4 #a1 or with ,no4 #d of ,chapter ,,viii41 sew it up1 fasten the tail to the mouth1 give it a slight dredging of flour1 stick small bits of butter thickly over it1 and bake it from half to three quarters of an hour1 should it be of moderate size1 and upwards of an hour1 if it be large4 ,should there not be sufficient sauce with it in the dish1 melted butter and a lemon1 or anchovy sauce may be sent to table with it4 ,when more convenient the forcemeat may be omitted1 and a little fine salt and cayenne1 with some bits of butter1 put into the inside of the fish1 which will then require rather less baking4 ,a buttered paper should always be laid over it in the oven1 should the outside appear likely to become too highly coloured or too dry before the fish is done2 and it is better to wrap quite small pike in buttered paper at once before they are sent to the oven4 ,moderate-sized pike1 #cj to #de minutes2 large pike1 #a to #a-a_/d hour4 ,,to ,,bake ,,pike4 7,superior ,receipt47 ,scale and wash the fish1 take out the gills1 then open it just sufficiently to allow the inside to be emptied and perfectly cleansed1 but not more than is necessary for that purpose4 ,wipe it as dry as possible in every part1 then hang it for an hour or two on a hook in a cool larder1 or wrap it in a soft cloth4 ,fill the body with the forcemeat ,no4 #a or #c1 or with the oyster forcemeat of ,chapter ,,viii42 sew it up very securely1 curl it round1 and fasten the tail into the mouth with a thin skewer1 then dip it into the beaten yolks of two or more eggs1 seasoned with nearly half a teaspoonful of salt and a little pepper or cayenne2 cover it equally with the finest bread-crumbs1 dip it a second time into the egg and crumbs1 then pour some clarified butter gently over it1 through a small strainer1 and send it to a well heated oven for an hour and a quarter or more1 should it be very large1 but for less time if it be only of moderate size4 ,as it is naturally a very dry fish1 it should not be left in the oven after it is thoroughly done1 but it should never be sent to table until it is so4 ,the crumbs of bread are sometimes mixed with a sufficient quantity of minced parsley to give the surface of the fish a green hue4 ,send plain melted butter1 and brown caper1 or ,dutch sauce to table with it4 ,,to ,,stew ,,carp4 7,a common ,country ,receipt47 ,illustration3 ,carp4 ,scale and clean the fish with exceeding care1 lay it into a stewpan1 and cover it with good cold beef or veal broth2 add one small onion stuck with a few cloves1 a faggot of savoury herbs1 three or four slices of carrot1 and a little salt1 and stew the carp as gently as possible for nearly an hour4 ,have ready some good brown gravy1 mixed with a couple of glassesful of port wine2 add a squeeze of lemon-juice1 dish the carp very carefully1 pour the sauce over1 and serve it immediately4 ,we would recommend the ,genevese ,sauce1 of ,chapter ,v41 as superior to any other for this dish4 ,this receipt is for a fish which averages from five to six pounds in weight1 but the carp sometimes attains to a very large size2 and sufficient time to cook it perfectly should always be allowed for it4 ,,to ,,boil ,,perch4#ej ,footnote #ej3 ,the figure of this fish is very disproportioned in size to that of the carp and other kinds inserted here1 as it is quite small at its fullest growth compared with the carp1 which sometimes attains to a great weight4 ,illustration3 ,perch4 ,first wipe or wash off the slime1 then scrape off the scales1 which adhere rather tenaciously to this fish2 empty and clean the insides perfectly1 take out the gills1 cut off the fins1 and lay the perch into equal parts of cold and of boiling water1 salted as for mackerel3 from eight to ten minutes will boil them unless they are very large4 ,dish them on a napkin1 garnish them with curled parsley1 and serve melted butter with them1 or ,matre d',htel ,sauce ,maigre4 ,very good ,french cooks put them at once into boiling water and keep them over a brisk fire for about fifteen minutes4 ,they dress them also without taking off the scales or fins until they are ready to serve1 when they strip the whole of the skin off carefully1 and stick the red fins into the middle of the backs2 the fish are then covered with the ,steward's sauce1 thickened with eggs4 ,in warm water1 #h to #aj minutes2 in boiling1 #ab to #ae minutes4 ,,to ,,fry ,,perch ,,or ,,tench4 ,scale1 and clean them perfectly2 dry them well1 flour and fry them in boiling lard4 ,serve plenty of crisped or fried parsley round them4 ,,to ,,fry ,,eels4 ,in season all the year1 but not so well-conditioned in ,april and ,may as in other months4 ,first kill1 then skin1 empty1 and wash them as clean as possible2 cut them into four-inch lengths1 and dry them well in a soft cloth4 ,season them with fine salt1 and white pepper1 or cayenne1 flour them thickly1 and fry them a fine brown in boiling lard2 drain and dry them as directed for soles1 and send them to table with plain melted butter or anchovy sauce4 ,eels are sometimes dipped into batter and then fried2 or into egg and fine bread-crumbs 7mixed with minced parsley or not1 at pleasure71 and served with plenty of crisped parsley round1 and on them4 ,it is an improvement for these modes of dressing the fish to open them entirely2 and remove the bones3 the smaller parts should be thrown into the pan a minute or two later than the thicker portions of the bodies or they will not be equally done4 ,,boiled ,,eels4 7,german ,receipt47 ,pare a fine lemon1 and strip from it entirely the white inner rind2 slice it1 and remove the pips with care2 put it with a blade of mace1 a small half-teaspoonful of white peppercorns1 nearly twice as much of salt1 and a moderate-sized bunch of parsley1 into three pints of cold water1 bring them gently to boil1 and simmer them for twenty minutes2 let them become quite cold2 then put in three pounds of eels skinned2 and cleaned with great nicety1 and cut into lengths of three or four inches2 simmer them very softly from ten to fifteen minutes1 lift them with a slice into a very hot dish1 and serve them with a good ,dutch sauce1 or with parsley and butter acidulated with lemon-juice1 or with chili vinegar4 ,for boiled eels with sage 7,german ,receipt71 see ,chapter of ,foreign ,cookery4 ,,eels4 7,cornish ,receipt47 ,skin1 empty1 and wash as clean as possible1 two or three fine eels1 cut them into short lengths1 and just cover them with cold water2 add sufficient salt and cayenne to season them1 and stew them very softly indeed from fifteen to twenty minutes1 or longer should they require it4 ,when they are nearly done1 strew over them a teaspoonful of minced parsley1 thicken the sauce with a teaspoonful of flour mixed with a slice of butter1 and add a quarter of a pint or more of clotted cream4 ,give the whole a boil1 lift the fish into a hot dish1 and stir briskly the juice of half a lemon into the sauce2 pour it upon the eels1 and serve them immediately3 ,very sweet thick cream is1 we think1 preferable to clotted cream for this dish4 ,the sauce should be of a good consistence1 and a dessertspoonful of flour will be needed for a large dish of the stew1 and from one and a half to two ounces of butter4 ,the size of the fish must determine the precise quantity of liquid and of seasoning which they will require4 ,,red ,,herrings1 ,,la ,,dauphin4 ,take off the heads1 open the backs of the fish1 and remove the backbones3 soak the herrings1 should they be very dry1 for two or three hours in warm milk and water1 drain and wipe them4 ,dissolve a slice of fresh butter1 and mix it with the beaten yolks of a couple of eggs and some savoury herbs minced small3 dip the fish into these1 and spread them thickly with fine bread-crumbs2 broil them of a light brown1 over a moderate fire1 and serve them on hot buttered toasts1 sprinkled with a little cayenne4 ,,red ,,herrings1 ,,common ,,english ,,mode4 ,this fish is rendered infinitely more delicate by pouring boiling water on it before it is dressed1 and leaving it to soak for half an hour1 or more1 should it be highly dried4 ,the fresh ,yarmouth bloaters do not require this4 ,cut off the heads and tails1 open the herrings at the back1 and warm them through before the fire1 or upon the gridiron4 ,they may be rubbed with a bit of cold butter1 and seasoned with a slight sprinkling of pepper or cayenne1 when these are liked1 or served quite plain4 ,,anchovies ,,fried ,,in ,,batter4 ,scrape very clean a dozen or more of fine anchovies1 and soak them in plenty of spring water from two to six hours3 then wipe them dry1 open them1 and take out the backbones1 without dividing the fish4 ,season the insides highly with cayenne1 close the anchovies1 dip them into the ,french batter of ,chapter ,v41 or into a light ,english batter1 and fry them a pale amber-colour3 in from four to five minutes they will be quite sufficiently done4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,dishes of ,shell-,fish ,illustration ,,oysters4 ,in season from ,september to ,april4 ,,the old-fashioned plan of feeding oysters with a sprinkling of oatmeal or flour1 in addition to the salt and water to which they were committed1 has long been rejected by all genuine amateurs of these nutritious and excellent fish1 who consider the plumpness which the oysters are supposed to gain from the process1 but poor compensation for the flavour which they are sure to lose4 ,to cleanse them when they first come up from the beds1 and to keep them in good condition for four or five days1 they only require to be covered with cold water1 with five ounces of salt to the gallon dissolved in it before it is poured on them2 this should be changed with regularity every twenty-four hours4 ,by following this plan with exactness they may be kept alive from a week to ten days1 but will remain in perfect condition scarcely more than half that time4 ,oysters should be eaten always the instant they are opened4 ,abroad they are served before the soup in the first course of a dinner1 arranged usually in as many plates as there are guests at table4 ,in ,england they are sometimes served after the soup4 ,a sense of appropriateness must determine how far the variations of fashion should be followed in such matters4 ,obs4--,we were accustomed formerly to have the brine which was supplied to oysters intended to be kept for some days1 changed twice in the twenty-four hours2 but we were informed by an oyster merchant in an extensive business that once was sufficient4 ,,to ,,scallop ,,oysters4 ,large coarse oysters should never be dressed in this way4 ,select small plump ones for the purpose1 let them be opened carefully1 give them a scald in their own liquor1 wash them in it free from grit1 and beard them neatly4 ,butter the scallop shells and shake some fine bread-crumbs over them2 fill them with alternate layers of oysters1 crumbs of bread1 and fresh butter cut into small bits2 pour in the oyster-liquor1 after it has been strained1 put a thick1 smooth layer of bread-crumbs on the top1 moisten them with clarified butter1#ea place the shells in a ,dutch oven before a clear fire1 and turn them often until the tops are equally and lightly browned3 send them immediately to table4 ,footnote #ea3 ,common cooks merely stick small bits of butter on them4 ,some persons like a little white pepper or cayenne1 and a flavouring of nutmeg added to the oysters2 others prefer pounded mace4 ,french cooks recommend with them a mixture of minced mushrooms stewed in butter till quite tender1 and sweet herbs finely chopped4 ,the fish is sometimes laid into the shells after having been bearded only4 ,,scalloped ,,oysters ,,la ,,reine4 ,plump and beard the oysters1 after having rinsed them well in their own strained liquor2 add to this about an equal quantity of very rich white sauce1 and thicken it1 if needful1 with half a teaspoonful of flour1 mixed with a small slice of butter1 or with as much arrow-root only2 put in the oysters1 and keep them at the point of simmering for three or four minutes3 lay them into the shells1 and cover the tops thickly with crumbs fried a delicate brown and well dried2 or heap over them instead1 a layer of fine crumbs2 pour clarified butter on them1 and brown them with a salamander4 ,,to ,,stew ,,oysters4 ,a pint of small plump oysters will be sufficient for a quite moderate-sized dish1 but twice as many will be required for a large one4 ,let them be very carefully opened1 and not mangled in the slightest degree2 wash them free from grit in their own strained liquor1 lay them into a very clean stewpan or well-tinned saucepan1 strain the liquor a second time1 pour it on them1 and heat them slowly in it4 ,when they are just beginning to simmer1 lift them out with a slice or a bored wooden spoon1 and take off the beards2 add to the liquor a quarter of a pint of good cream1 a seasoning of pounded mace1 and cayenne1 and a little salt1 and when it boils1 stir in from one to two ounces of good butter1 smoothly mixed with a large teaspoonful of flour2 continue to stir the sauce until these are perfectly blended with it1 then put in the oysters1 and let them remain by the side of the fire until they are very hot3 they require so little cooking that1 if kept for four or five minutes nearly simmering1 they will be ready for table1 and they are quickly hardened by being allowed to boil1 or by too much stewing4 ,serve them garnished with pale fried sippets4 ,small plump oysters1 #a pint3 their own liquor3 brought slowly to the point of simmering4 ,cream1 #a_/d pint2 seasoning of pounded mace and cayenne2 salt as needed2 butter1 #a to #b oz42 flour1 #a large teaspoonful4 ,obs4--,a little lemon-juice should be stirred quickly into the stew just as it is taken from the fire4 ,another mode of preparing this dish1 is to add the strained liquor of the oysters to about an equal quantity of rich bechamel1 with a little additional thickening2 then to heat them in it1 after having prepared and plumped them properly4 ,or1 the beards of the fish may be stewed for half an hour in a little pale gravy1 or good broth1 and this1 when strained and mixed with the oyster-liquor1 may be brought to the consistency of cream with the ,french thickening of ,chapter ,v41 or1 with flour and butter1 then seasoned with spice as above3 the process should be quite the same in all of these receipts1 though the composition of the sauce is varied4 ,essence of anchovies1 cavice1 chili vinegar1 or yolks of eggs can be added to the taste4 ,for ,curried ,oysters see ,chapter ,,xvi4 ,,oyster ,,sausages4 7,a most excellent ,receipt47 ,beard1 rinse well in their strained liquor1 and mince but not finely1 three dozens and a half of plump native oysters1 and mix them with ten ounces of fine bread-crumbs1 and ten of beef-suet chopped extremely small2 add a saltspoonful of salt1 and one of pepper1 or less than half the quantity of cayenne1 twice as much pounded mace1 and the third of a small nutmeg grated3 moisten the whole with two unbeaten eggs1 or with the yolks only of three1 and a dessertspoonful of the whites4 ,when these ingredients have been well worked together1 and are perfectly blended1 set the mixture in a cool place for two or three hours before it is used2 make it into the form of small sausages or sausage cakes1 flour and fry them in butter of a fine light brown2 or throw them into boiling water for three minutes1 drain1 and let them become cold1 dip them into egg and bread-crumbs1 and broil them gently until they are lightly coloured4 ,a small bit should be cooked and tasted before the whole is put aside1 that the seasoning may be heightened if required4 ,the sausages thus made are extremely good3 the fingers should be well floured in making them up4 ,small plump oysters1 #c-a_/b dozens2 bread-crumbs1 #aj oz42 beef suet1 #aj oz42 seasoning of salt1 cayenne1 pounded mace1 and nutmeg2 unbeaten eggs #b1 or yolks of #c4 ,,to ,,boil ,,lobsters4 ,in full season from ,april to ,october3 may be had all the year4 ,choose them by the directions given at the commencement of this chapter1 and throw them into plenty of fast-boiling salt and water1 that life may be destroyed in an instant4 ,to #a gallon of water1 #e ounces salt3 moderate sized lobster1 #ae to #bj minutes2 large lobster1 #cj to #dj minutes2 very large1 #a hour or more4 ,,cold ,,dressed ,,lobster ,,and ,,crab4 ,illustration3 ,dressed ,lobster4 ,before a lobster is sent to table take off the large claws1 hold each of them firmly with the edge upwards1 and with a quick light blow from a cutlet bat or ought else convenient for the purpose1 crack the shell without disfiguring the fish4 ,split the tail open with a very sharp knife and dish the lobster in the manner shown in the engraving1 either with1 or without a napkin under it4 ,when the soft part of the body is required to mix with the dressing1 take it out before it is served1 and add it to the remoulade1 or other sauce with which it is to be mingled4 ,the shrimp chatney of ,chapter ,,vi4 is a wholesome accompaniment to this fish2 which we must remark here should be sparingly eaten1 or altogether avoided1 by persons in delicate health1 and especially at night4 ,it is too much the fashion to serve it as a supper dish at parties2 and it sometimes produces dangerous attacks of indigestion and other illness4 ,the flesh of the crab is much lighter4 ,this is served in the shell1 which should be entirely emptied and nicely cleaned out2 the sides filled with the white flesh divided into small flakes1 and the centre with the soft part or cream as it is called4 ,illustration3 ,dressed ,crab4 ,the flesh of two crabs can be served in one shell when a dish of handsome appearance is required1 and the sauce can be mixed with it the instant before it is sent to table1 though it will be whiter1 and of better appearance without it4 ,the centre may be filled with a red ,imperial ,mayonnaise1 when a good effect is wanted4 ,for other appropriate sauces see ,chapter ,,vi4 ,,lobsters1 ,,fricasseed1 ,,or ,,au ,b,,chamel4 7,,entr,e47 ,take the flesh from the claws and tails of two moderate-sized lobsters2 cut it into small scallops or dice2 heat it slowly quite through in about three quarters of a pint of good white sauce or bchamel2 and serve it when it is at the point of boiling1 after having stirred briskly to it a little lemon-juice just as it is taken from the fire4 ,the coral1 pounded and mixed gradually with a few spoonsful of the sauce1 should be added previously4 ,good shin of beef stock made without vegetables 7see page #ig71 and somewhat reduced by quick boiling1 if mixed with an equal proportion of cream1 and thickened with arrow-root1 will answer extremely well in a general way for this dish1 which is most excellent if well made4 ,the sauce should never be thin2 nor more than sufficient in quantity to just cover the fish4 ,for a second course dish1 only as much must be used as will adhere to the fish1 which after being heated should be laid evenly into the shells1 which ought to be split quite through the centre of the backs in their entire length1 without being broken or divided at the joint1 and nicely cleaned4 ,when thus arranged1 the lobster may be thickly covered with well dried1 fine1 pale fried crumbs of bread1 or with unfried ones1 which must then be equally moistened with clarified butter1 and browned with a salamander4 ,a small quantity of salt1 mace1 and cayenne1 may be required to finish the flavouring of either of these preparations4 ,,hot ,,crab1 ,,or ,,lobster4 7,in season during the same time as ,lobsters47 ,slice quite small1 or pull into light flakes with a couple of forks1 the flesh of either fish2 put it into a saucepan with a few bits of good butter lightly rolled in flour1 and heat it slowly over a gentle fire2 then pour over and thoroughly mix with it1 from one to two teaspoonsful or more of common or of chili vinegar2 if with the former1 add to it a tolerable seasoning of cayenne4 ,grate in a little nutmeg1 and when the whole is well heated serve it immediately1 either in the shell of the crab or lobster1 or in scallop-shells1 and serve it plain1 or with bread-crumbs over1 as in the preceding receipt4 ,a spoonful or so of good meat jelly is1 we think1 a great improvement to this dish1 for which an ounce and a half of butter will be quite sufficient4 ,this is sometimes called ,buttered ,crab4 ,,potted ,,lobsters4 ,separate carefully the flesh of freshly-boiled lobsters from the shells1 and from the tough red skin of the tails1 mince the fish up quickly with a very sharp knife1 turn it immediately into a large mortar1 and strew over it a mixed seasoning of fine cayenne1 pounded mace1 lightly grated nutmeg1 and salt3 this last should be sparingly used in the first instance1 and it should be reduced to powder before it is added4 ,pound the lobsters to a perfect paste with from two to three ounces of firm new butter to each fish if of large size1 but with less should it be small2 and the lobster-coral previously rubbed through a sieve1 or with a portion of it only1 should any part of it be required for other purposes4 ,when there is no coral1 a fine colour may be given to the mixture by stewing the red skin of the tails very softly for ten or twelve minutes in part of the butter which is used for it1 but which must be strained and left to become perfectly cold before it is mingled with the fish4 ,the degree of seasoning given to the mixture can be regulated by the taste2 but no flavour should predominate over that of the lobster itself2 and for all delicate preparations1 over-spicing should be particularly avoided4 ,a quart or more of fine brown shrimps1 if very fresh and quickly shelled at the instant of using1 may be chopped up and pounded with the lobsters with excellent effect4 ,before the mixture is taken from the mortar it should be placed in a cool larder1 or set over ice for a short time1 to render it firm before it is pressed into the potting-pans or moulds4 ,in putting it into these1 be careful to press it into a compact1 even mass2 smooth the surface1 run a little clarified butter over1 when it is only just liquid1 for if hot it would prevent the fish from keeping--and send the lobster to table1 neatly garnished with light green foliage2 or with ornamentally-cut paper fastened round the mould2 or with a small damask napkin tastefully arranged about it4 ,obs4--,by pounding separately part of the white flesh of the fish1 freed from every particle of the skin1 and by colouring the remainder highly with the coral of the lobster1 and then pressing the two in alternate and regular layers into a mould1 a dish of pretty appearance is produced1 which should be turned out of the mould for table4 ,ham and turkey 7or any other white meat7 are often potted in this way4 ,,lobster ,,cutlets4 7,a ,superior ,entre47 ,prepare and pound with exceeding nicety1 by the preceding receipt for ,potted ,lobsters1 about three quarters of a pound of the flesh of a couple of fine fresh lobsters1 of which one must be a hen lobster2 add to it1 when it is partially beaten1 an ounce and a half of sweet new butter1 a saltspoonful of salt1 and about two-thirds as much of mixed mace and cayenne1 with a dessertspoonful of the inside coral1 the whole of which should be rubbed with a wooden spoon through a hair sieve1 to be in readiness for use4 ,when all these ingredients are well blended1 and beaten to the finest and smoothest paste1 the mixture should be tested by the taste1 and the seasoning heightened if needful2 but1 as the preparation is very delicate1 it should not be over-spiced4 ,mould it into the form of small cutlets about the third of an inch thick1 stick into each a short bit of the smallest claws1 strew the coral lightly over them so as to give them the appearance of being crumbed with it1 arrange them round the dish in which they are to be sent to table1 place them in a very gentle oven for eight or ten minutes only to heat them through1 or warm them in a ,dutch or ,american oven1 placed at some distance from the fire1 that the brilliant colour of the coral may not be destroyed2 and pour into the centre some good bchamel 7see page #ajh71 or the ,lady's ,sauce1 or the ,cream ,sauce of ,chapter ,,iv4 ,a very white sauce best contrasts with the colour of the cutlets4 ,this is an excellent and elegant dish1 of which an admirable variety is made by the addition of three or four ounces of the freshest shrimps1 quickly shelled1 and chopped before they are thrown into the mortar1 with half an ounce of butter and a little spice4 ,all the coral can be added to the cutlets at pleasure2 but it is generally in request for many purposes1 and is required for this one only in part4 ,obs4--,as lobsters are well known to be the most indigestible of shell fish1 and as they sometimes prove dangerously so to persons out of health1 these pounded preparations are the best and safest forms in which they can be served3 they should at all times be beaten to a smooth1 fibreless paste1 before they are taken from the mortar2 and no fish that is not entirely fresh should ever be used for them4 ,prawns may be advantageously served in the same manner4 ,for ,indian ,lobster ,cutlets1 see ,chapter of ,foreign ,cookery4 ,,lobster ,,sausages4 ,let the fish be pounded as for the cutlets above or for boudinettes1 but mix half or more of the coral with the flesh of the lobsters2 shape it like small sausages1 sprinkle them with the powdered coral1 and heat them through in a ,dutch or ,american oven4 ,they may be brushed with clarified butter before the coral is strewed over them1 but they scarcely need it4 ,a fierce degree of heat will destroy the excellence of all these preparations4 ,,boudinettes ,,of ,,lobsters1 ,,prawns1 ,,or ,,shrimps4 7,,entr,e74 7,author's ,receipt47 ,when the fish has been prepared as above1 mould it in as many very small round cups as will suffice for a dish2 heat them gently through at the mouth of the oven or before the fire1 and serve them dry1 or with a little rich white sauce1 coloured with lobster-coral poured round1 but not upon them4 ,these boudinettes are delicious1 made entirely of shrimps or prawns1 which it is an advantage to have prepared as follows1 either for this purpose or for potting simply1 as they will then be firmer1 and will also remain good much longer3--,shell them quickly1 and touch them as little as possible in the process2 put them into an enamelled saucepan with about three ounces of butter to the quart1 and strew the spice upon them2 place them by the side of a gentle fire that they may heat through very gradually1 and shake the saucepan round occasionally to mingle the seasoning equally with them4 ,do not allow them to boil1 as that would render them tough1 but when they are heated quite through and the butter approaches the point of simmering1 draw them from the fire2 let them remain for a few minutes in the saucepan1 then lay them very evenly and closely into the pans and pour the butter on them2 but let it be clear from sediment1 or from any liquid which may be perceptible at the bottom of the saucepan4 ,when merely required for boudinettes1 the fish may be turned into a large pan or basin and left until thoroughly cold1 then chopped small upon a dish with the butter in which they are imbedded1 and pounded as usual2 no additional butter will be required for them1 and part of that in which they have been heated may be set aside for fish-sauce when the proportion of it directed here is considered too large4 ,as it should cover the shrimps entirely when they are potted whole1 sufficient to do so should be melted with them4 ,it is an excellent plan to dissolve it in a separate saucepan1 to skim it well1 and after it has stood to become clear1 to pour it gently over the shrimps1 leaving all the buttermilk behind4 ,they should not be placed immediately by the fire1 or they will heat too quickly3 they should be set away from it until the butter has cooled upon them4 ,if carefully prepared1 and agreeably seasoned1 they will be excellent1 and can be sent to a great distance without detriment if packed so as to be kept cool4 ,the red shrimps may be substituted for the brown1 when they can be more easily procured4 ,obs4--,lobsters and shrimps1 or prawns1 in equal proportions1 answer extremely well for boudinettes as for potting4 ,,to ,,boil ,,shrimps ,,or ,,prawns4 ,throw them into plenty of fast boiling water1 to which salt has been added in the proportion of from five to six ounces to the gallon2 take off all the scum1 boil the shrimps for five or six minutes1 or rather less should they be very small1 and the prawns for about two minutes longer4 ,the shrimpers#eb of the coast frequently cook them in sea-water1 but the flavour is not then so agreeable as when fresh brine is used for them4 ,they are always unwholesome when not sufficiently boiled2 and even more so when they are stale4 ,as soon as they are tender1 drain them well in a cullender1 and spread them out on a soft cloth to cool2 or dish them on a napkin1 and send them hot to table when they are liked so4 ,the large brown shrimps are considered the best1 and they are more easily shelled than the red ones3 these last1 however1 are sometimes preferred to them4 ,prawns1 though superior to shrimps only in size1 are always much higher in price4 ,footnote #eb3 ,or pandlers1 as they are often called4 ,shrimps1 #e to #f minutes if large4 ,prawns1 #f to #h minutes4 ,obs4--,ready-dressed shrimps or prawns may be preserved fit for eating at least twelve hours longer than they would otherwise keep1 by throwing them for an instant into boiling salt and water1 when they first begin to lose their freshness1 and then draining them as above4 ,,to ,,dish ,,cold ,,prawns4 ,when they are quite cold1 dish them singly upon a very white napkin neatly arranged over a saucer or small basin reversed in a dish1 and garnish the base with a wreath of curled parsley1 or with small leaves of the purple endive4 ,,to ,,shell ,,shrimps ,,and ,,prawns ,,quickly ,,and ,,easily4 ,this1 though a most simple process1 would appear1 from the manner in which it is performed by many people1 to be a very difficult one2 indeed it is not unusual for persons of the lower classes1 who1 from lack of a little skill1 find it slow and irksome1 to have resource to the dangerous plan of eating the fish entire4 ,it need scarcely be remarked that very serious consequences may accrue from the shells being swallowed with them1 particularly when they are taken in large quantities4 ,unless the fish be stale1 when they are apt to break1 they will quit the shells easily if the head be held firmly in the right hand and the tail in the other1 and the fish be straightened entirely1 then the two hands pressed quickly towards each other1 and the shell of the tail broken by a slight vibratory motion of the right hand1 when it will be drawn of with the head adhering to it3 a small portion1 only will then remain on at the other end1 which can be removed in an instant4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,gravies4 ,,introductory ,,remarks4 ,illustration3 ,gravy ,kettle4 ,,gravies are not often required either in great variety1 or in abundant quantities1 when only a moderate table is kept1 and a clever cook will manage to supply1 at a trifling cost1 all that is generally needed for plain family dinners2 while an unskilful or extravagant one will render them sources of unbounded expense4#ec ,but however small the proportions in which they are made1 their quality should be particularly attended to1 and they should be well adapted in flavour to the dishes they are to accompany4 ,for some1 a high degree of savour is desirable1 but for fricassees1 and other preparations of delicate white meats1 this should be avoided1 and a soft1 smooth sauce of refined flavour should be used in preference to any of more piquant relish4 ,footnote #ec3 ,we know of an instance of a cook who stewed down two or three pounds of beef to make gravy for a single brace of partridges2 and who complained of the meanness of her employers 7who were by no means affluent7 because this was objected to4 ,instead of frying the ingredients for brown gravies1 which is usually done in common ,english kitchens1 ,french cooks pour to them at first a small quantity of liquid1 which is reduced by rapid boiling to what is technically called glaze2 particular directions for which will be found in the next receipt to this1 and also at pages #aj and #ajd4 ,when the glaze has acquired the proper colour1 boiling broth should be added in small portions1 and well shaken round the stewpan to detach it entirely2 the meat may then be stewed gently for three or four hours with a few mushrooms1 should they be at hand1 a bunch of parsley1 and some green onions1 or with a ,portugal onion instead4 ,a thick slice or two of an unboiled ham1 is an almost indispensable addition to rich soup or gravy1 and to supply it in the most economical manner1 a large1 highly cured one1 or more1 not over fatted1 should be kept for the purpose1 and cut as required4 ,the bones of undressed meat will supply almost1 or quite as good gravy-stock as the meat itself1 if well boiled down1 particularly those of the loin1 or neck of veal2 and as the flesh of these may be dressed in many ways advantageously without them1 the whole joint may be turned to excellent account by so dividing it4 ,the necks of poultry1 with the feet properly skinned1 a few herbs1 a morsel or two of ham or of lean bacon1 and such slight flavourings beside as the spice-box can supply1 with a few drops of good mushroom catsup1 will of themselves1 if well managed1 produce sufficient gravy to serve with the birds from which they are taken2 and if not wanted for the purpose1 they should always be stewed down1 or thrown into the stock pot1 for which the shank bones of legs of mutton1 and all trimmings of meats should likewise be reserved4 ,excellent broth for the sick or for the needy1 may also be made of them at little cost1 when they are not required for other uses4 ,to deepen the colour of gravies1 the thick mushroom pressings of ,chapter ,,vii41 or a little soy 7when its flavour is admissible71 or cavice ,,tn3 illegible1 or ,harvey's sauce1 may be added to it2 and for some dishes1 a glass of claret1 or of port wine4 ,vermicelli1 or rasped cocoa-nut1 lightly1 and very gently browned in a small quantity of butter1 will both thicken and enrich them1 if about an ounce of either to the pint of gravy be stewed gently in it1 from half an hour to an hour1 and then strained out4 ,all the ingredients indicated at page #d1 for giving consistency to soups1 will answer equally for gravies1 which should not1 however1 be too much thickened1 particularly with the unwholesome mixture of flour and butter1 so commonly used for the purpose4 ,arrow-root or rice-flour1 or common flour gradually browned in a slow oven1 are much better suited to a delicate stomach4 ,no particle of fat should ever be perceptible upon them when they are sent to table2 and when it cannot be removed by skimming1 they should be allowed to become sufficiently cold for it to congeal1 and be taken off at once without trouble4 ,it may be cleared from such as have not been thickened by passing them through a closely woven cloth1 which has previously been laid into1 and well wrung from1 some cold water4 ,,jewish ,,smoked ,,beef4 7,extremely useful for giving flavour to soup and gravy47 ,this beef1 of which we have more fully spoken in ,chapter ,,xxxiv4,,tn3 chapter missing1 imparts a remarkably fine flavour to soup or gravy2 but great care must be taken in using it to cut quite away all the external parts which have been discoloured in the drying3 the whole of the surface1 indeed1 should be rather thickly pared off1 or it will give a smoky taste to the gravy4 ,an ounce or two of the lean thus cleared from the outsides and from all skin and fat1 and divided first into thick slices1 and then into small squares1 will flavour a pint or more of stock of any kind3 it may be added to the meat in making ,liebeg gravy when it is first put into the stewpan4 ,,to ,,heighten ,,the ,,colour ,,and ,,the ,,flavour ,,of ,,gravies4 ,this is best done by the directions given for making ,espagnole4 ,an ounce or two of the lean of unboiled ham1 cut into dice and coloured slowly in a small stewpan1 or smoothly-tinned iron saucepan1 with less than an ounce of butter1 a blade of mace1 two or three cloves1 a bay-leaf1 a few small sprigs of savoury herbs1 and an eschalot or two1 or about a teaspoonful of minced onion1 and a little young parsley root1 when it can be had1 will convert common shin of beef stock1 or even strong broth1 into an excellent gravy1 if it be gradually added to them after they have stewed slowly for quite half an hour1 and then boiled with them for twenty minutes or more4 ,the liquid should not be mixed with the other ingredients until the side of the stewpan is coloured of a reddish brown2 and should any thickening be required1 a teaspoonful of flour should be stirred in well1 and simmered for three or four minutes before the stock is added2 the pan should be strongly shaken round afterwards1 to detach the browning from it1 and this must be done often while the ham is stewing4 ,obs4--,the cook who is not acquainted with this mode of preparing or enriching gravies1 will do well to make herself acquainted with it2 as it presents no difficulties1 and is exceedingly convenient and advantageous when they are wanted in small quantities1 very highly flavoured and well coloured4 ,an unboiled ham1 kept in cut1 will be found1 as we have already said1 a great economy for this1 and other purposes1 saving much of the expense commonly incurred for gravy-meats4 ,as eschalots1 when sparingly used1 impart a much finer savour than onions1 though they are not commonly so much used in ,england1 we would recommend that a small store of them should always be kept4 ,,baron ,,liebeg's ,,beef ,,gravy4 7,most excellent for hashes1 minces1 and other dishes made of cold meat47 ,for particulars of this most useful receipt1 for extracting all its juices from fresh meat of every kind in the best manner1 the cook is referred to the first part of the chapter on soups4 ,the preparation1 for which minute directions are given there1 if poured on a few bits of lean ham lightly browned1 with the other ingredients indicated above1 will be converted into gravy of fine flavour and superior quality4 ,with no addition1 beyond that of a little thickening and spice1 it will serve admirably for dressing cold meat1 in all the usual forms of hashes1 minces1 blanquettes1 c41 c41 and convert it into dishes as nourishing as those of meat freshly cooked1 and it may be economically made in small quantities with any trimmings of undressed beef1 mutton1 or veal1 mixed together1 which are free from fat1 and not sinewy3 flavour may be given to it at once by chopping up with them the lean part only of a slice or two of ham1 or of highly-cured beef4 ,,shin ,,of ,,beef ,,stock ,,for ,,gravies4 ,there is no better foundation for strong gravies than shin of beef stewed down to a jelly 7which it easily becomes71 with the addition only of some spice1 a bunch of savoury herbs1 and a moderate proportion of salt2 this1 if kept in a cool larder1 boiled softly for two or three minutes every second or third day1 and each time put into a clean1 well-scalded pan1 will remain good for many days1 and may easily be converted into excellent soup or gravy4 ,let the bone be broken in one or two places1 take out the marrow1 which1 if not wanted for immediate use1 should be clarified1 and stored for future occasions2 put a pint and a half of cold water to the pound of beef1 and stew it very gently indeed for six or seven hours1 or even longer should the meat not then be quite in fragments4 ,the bones of calf's feet which have been boiled down for jelly1 the liquor in which the head has been cooked1 and any remains of ham quite freed from the smoky parts1 from rust1 and fat1 will be serviceable additions to this stock4 ,a couple of pounds of the neck of beef may be added to six of the shin with very good effect2 but for white soup or sauces this is better avoided4 ,shin of beef1 #f lbs42 water1 #i pints2 salt1 #a oz42 large bunch of savoury herbs2 peppercorns1 #a teaspoonful2 mace1 #b blades4 ,,rich ,,pale ,,veal ,,gravy1 ,,or ,,consomm4 ,the ,french1 who have always at hand their stock-pot of good bouillon 7beef soup or broth71 make great use of it in preparing their gravies4 ,it is added instead of water to the fresh meat1 and when this1 in somewhat larger proportions1 is boiled down in it1 with the addition only of a bunch of parsley1 a few green onions1 and a moderate seasoning of salt1 a strong and very pure-flavoured pale gravy is produced4 ,when the best joints of fowls1 or of partridges have been taken for fricassees or cutlets1 the remainder may be stewed with a pound or two of veal into a consomm1 which then takes the name of chicken or of game gravy4 ,for a large dinner it is always desirable to have in readiness such stock as can easily and quickly be converted into white and other sauces4 ,to make this1 arrange a slice or two of lean ham in a stewpan or saucepan with three pounds of the neck of veal once or twice divided 7unless the thick fleshy part of the knuckle can be had71 and pour to them three full pints of strong beef or veal broth2 or1 if this cannot conveniently be done1 increase the proportion of meat or diminish that of the liquid1 substituting water for the broth2 throw in some salt after the boiling has commenced1 and the gravy has been well skimmed1 with one mild onion1 a bunch of savoury herbs1 a little celery1 a carrot1 a blade of mace1 and a half-saltspoonful of peppercorns2 stew those very gently for four hours2 then1 should the meat be quite in fragments1 strain off the gravy1 and let it become sufficiently cold to allow the fat to be entirely cleared from it4 ,a handful of nicely prepared mushroom-buttons will much improve its flavour2 and the bones of boiled calf's feet1 or the fresh ones of fowls1 will be found excellent additions to it4 ,a better method of making it1 when time and trouble are not regarded1 is to heat the meat1 which ought to be free of bones1 quite through1 with from a quarter to half a pint of broth only1 and when on probing it with the point of a knife no blood issues from it1 and it has been turned and equally done1 to moisten it with the remainder of the broth1 which should be boiling4 ,lean of ham1 #f to #h oz42 neck or knuckle of veal1 #c lbs42 strong broth1 #c pints 7or veal1 #d lbs41 and water1 #c pints72 salt2 bunch of savoury herbs2 mild onion1 #a2 carrot1 #a large or #b small2 celery #a_/b small head2 mace1 #a large blade2 peppercorns1 #a_/b saltspoonful2 #d hours or more4 ,or3 ham1 #a_/b lb42 veal1 #d lbs42 broth1 third of a pint2 nearly #a hour4 ,additional broth1 #c pints3 #c-a_/b to #d-a_/b hours4 ,,rich ,,deep-,,coloured ,,veal ,,gravy4 ,lay into a large thick stewpan or saucepan1 from half to three quarters of a pound of undressed ham1 freed entirely from fat1 and from the smoked edges1 and sliced half an inch thick2 on this place about four pounds of lean veal1 cut from the best part of the knuckle or from the neck 7part of the fillet1 which in ,france is often used for it instead1 not being generally purchasable here1 the butchers seldom dividing the joint72 pour to them about half a pint of good broth1#ed and place the pan over a brisk fire until it is well reduced2 then thrust a knife into the meat1 and continue the stewing more gently until a glaze is formed as we have described at page #aj4 ,the latter part of the process must be very slow2 the stewpan must be frequently shaken1 and the gravy closely watched that it may not burn3 when it is of a fine deep amber colour1 pour in sufficient boiling broth to cover the meat1 add a bunch of parsley1 and a few mushrooms and green onions4 ,a blade or two of mace1 a few white peppercorns1 and a head of celery1 would1 we think1 be very admissible additions to this gravy1 but it is extremely good without4 ,half the quantity can be made1 but it will then be rather more troublesome to manage4 ,footnote #ed3 ,when there is no provision of this in the house1 the quantity may be made with a small proportion of beef1 and the trimmings of the veal1 by the directions for ,bouillon1 ,chapter ,i4 ,undressed ham1 #h to #ab oz42 lean veal1 #d lbs42 broth1 #a_/b pint2 #a to #b hours4 ,broth1 #c to #d pints3 bunch of parsley and green onions1 or #a ,portugal onion2 mushrooms1 #a_/d to #a_/b pint3 #a-a_/b to #b hours4 ,,good ,,beef ,,or ,,veal ,,gravy4 7,,english ,,receipt47 ,flour and fry lightly in a bit of good butter a couple of pounds of either beef or veal2 drain the meat well from the fat1 and lay it into a small thick stewpan or iron saucepan2 pour to it a quart of boiling water2 add1 after it has been well skimmed and salted1 a large mild onion sliced1 very delicately fried1 and laid on a sieve to drain1 a carrot also sliced1 a small bunch of thyme and parsley1 a blade of mace1 and a few peppercorns2 stew these gently for three hours or more1 pass the gravy through a sieve into a clean pan1 and when it is quite cold clear it entirely from fat1 heat as much as is wanted for table1 and if not sufficiently thick stir into it from half to a whole teaspoonful of arrow-root mixed with a little mushroom catsup4 ,beef or veal1 #b lbs42 water1 #b pints2 fried onion1 #a large2 carrot1 #a2 small bunch of herbs2 salt1 #a small teaspoonful or more2 mace1 #a blade2 peppercorns1 #bj3 #c to #c-a_/b hours4 ,a ,,rich ,,english ,,brown ,,gravy4 ,brown lightly and carefully from four to six ounces of lean ham1 thickly sliced and cut into large dice2 lift these out1 and put them into the pan in which the gravy is to be made2 next1 fry lightly also1 a couple of pounds of neck of beef dredged moderately with flour1 and slightly with pepper2 put this1 when it is done1 over the ham2 and then brown gently and add to them two or three eschalots1 or a ,portugal onion2 should neither of these be at hand1 one not large common onion must be used instead4 ,pour over these ingredients a quart of boiling water1 or of weak but well-flavoured broth2 bring the whole slowly to a boil1 clear off the scum with great care1 throw in a saltspoonful of salt1 four cloves1 a blade of mace1 twenty corns of pepper1 a bunch of savoury herbs1 a carrot1 and a few slices of celery3 these last two may be fried or not as is most convenient4 ,boil the gravy very softly until it is reduced to little more than a pint2 strain1 and set it by until the fat can be taken from it4 ,heat it anew1 add more salt if needed and a little mushroom catsup1 cayenne-vinegar1 or whatever flavouring it may require for the dish with which it is to be served2 it will seldom require any thickening4 ,a dozen small mushrooms prepared as for pickling1 or two or three morels1 previously well washed and soaked1 may be added to it at first with advantage4 ,half this quantity of gravy will be sufficient for a single tureen1 and the economist can diminish a little the proportion of meat when it is thought too much4 ,,plain ,,gravy ,,for ,,venison4 ,trim away the fat from some cutlets1 and lay them into a stewpan2 set them over a clear fire1 and let them brown a little in their own gravy2 then add a pint of boiling water to each pound of meat4 ,take off the scum1 throw in a little salt1 and boil the gravy until reduced one half4 ,some cooks broil the cutlets lightly1 boil the gravy one hour1 and reduce it after it is strained4 ,for appropriate gravy to serve with venison1 see 8,haunch of ,venison10 ,chapter ,,xv4 ,a ,,rich ,,gravy ,,for ,,venison4 ,there are few eaters to whom this would be acceptable1 the generality of them preferring infinitely the flavour of the venison itself to any which the richest gravy made of other meats can afford2 but when the flavour of a well-made ,espagnole is likely to be relished1 prepare it by the receipt of the following page1 substituting plain strong mutton stock for the veal gravy4 ,,sweet ,,sauce1 ,,or ,,gravy ,,for ,,venison4 ,add to a quarter-pint of common venison gravy a couple of glasses of port wine or claret1 and half an ounce of sugar in lumps4 ,christopher ,north's sauce1 mixed with three times its measure of gravy1 would be an excellent substitute for this4 ,,espagnole 7,,spanish ,,sauce74 ,a highly-flavoured ,gravy4 ,dissolve a couple of ounces of good butter in a thick stewpan or saucepan1 throw in from four to six sliced eschalots1 four ounces of the lean of an undressed ham1 three ounces of carrot1 cut in small dice1 one bay leaf1 two or three branches of parsley1 and one or two of thyme1 but these last must be small2 three cloves1 a blade of mace1 and a dozen corns of pepper2 add part of a root of parsley1 if it be at hand1 and keep the whole stirred or shaken over a moderate fire for twenty minutes1 then add by degrees one pint of very strong veal stock or gravy1 and stew the whole gently from thirty to forty minutes2 strain it1 skim off the fat1 and it will be ready to serve4 ,butter1 #b oz42 eschalots1 #d to #f2 lean of undressed ham1 #d oz42 carrots1 #c oz42 bay leaf1 #a2 little thyme and parsley1 in branches2 cloves1 #c2 mace1 #a blade2 peppercorns1 #ab2 little parsley root3 fried gently1 #bj minutes4 ,strong veal stock1 or gravy1 #a pint3 stewed very softly1 #cj to #dj minutes4 ,,espagnole1 ,,with ,,wine4 ,take the same proportions of ingredients as for the preceding ,espagnole1 with the addition1 if they should be at hand1 of a dozen small mushrooms prepared as for stewing2 when these have fried gently in the stewpan until it appears of a reddish colour all round1 stir in a tablespoonful of flour1 and when it is lightly browned1 add in small portions1 letting each one boil up before the next is poured in1 and shaking the pan well round1 three quarters of a pint of hot and good veal gravy1 and nearly half a pint of ,madeira or sherry4 ,when the sauce has boiled gently for half an hour1 add to it a small quantity of cayenne and some salt1 if this last be needed2 then strain it1 skim off the fat entirely should any appear upon the surface1 and serve it very hot4 ,a smaller proportion of wine added a few minutes before the sauce is ready for table1 would perhaps better suit with ,english taste1 as with longer boiling its flavour passes off almost entirely4 ,either of these ,espagnoles1 poured over the well bruised remains of pheasants1 partridges1 or moor fowl1 and boiled with them for an hour1 will become most admirable game gravy1 and would generally be considered a superlative addition to other roast birds of their kind1 as well as to the hash or salmi1 for which see ,chapter ,,xv4 ,ingredients as in preceding receipt1 with mushrooms #ab to #ah2 ,madeira1 or good sherry1 #a_/d to #a_/b pint4 ,,jus ,,des ,,rognons1 ,,or1 ,,kidney ,,gravy4 ,strip the skin and take the fat from three fresh mutton kidneys1 slice and flour them2 melt two ounces of butter in a deep saucepan1 and put in the kidneys1 with an onion cut small1 and a teaspoonful of fine herbs stripped from the stalks4 ,keep these well shaken over a clear fire until nearly all the moisture is dried up2 then pour in a pint of boiling water1 add half a teaspoonful of salt1 and a little cayenne or common pepper1 and let the gravy boil gently for an hour and a half1 or longer1 if it be not thick and rich4 ,strain it through a fine sieve1 and take off the fat4 ,spice or catsup may be added at pleasure4 ,mutton kidneys1 #c2 butter1 #b oz42 onion1 #a2 fine herbs1 #a teaspoonful3 #a_/b hour4 ,water1 #a pint2 salt1 #a_/b teaspoonful2 little cayenne1 or black pepper3 #a-a_/b hour4 ,obs4--,this is an excellent cheap gravy for haricots1 curries1 or hashes of mutton2 it may be much improved by the addition of two or three eschalots1 and a small bit or two of lean meat4 ,,gravy ,,in ,,haste4 ,chop fine a few bits of lean meat1 a small onion1 a few slices of carrot and turnip1 and a little thyme and parsley2 put these with half an ounce of butter into a thick saucepan1 and keep them stirred until they are slightly browned2 add a little spice1 and water in the proportion of a pint to a pound of meat2 clear the gravy from scum1 let it boil half an hour1 then strain it for use4 ,meat1 #a lb42 #a small onion2 little carrot1 turnip1 thyme1 and parsley2 butter1 #a_/b oz42 cloves1 #f2 corns of pepper1 #ab2 water1 #a pint3 #a_/b hour4 ,,cheap ,,gravy ,,for ,a ,,roast ,,fowl4 ,when there is neither broth nor gravy to be had1 nor meat of which either can be made1 boil the neck of the fowl after having cut it small1 in half a pint of water1 with any slight seasonings of spice or herbs1 or with a little salt and pepper only2 it should stew very softly for an hour or more1 or the quantity will be too much reduced4 ,when the bird is just ready for table1 take the gravy from the dripping-pan1 and drain off the fat from it as closely as possible2 strain the liquor from the neck to it1 mixing them smoothly1 pass the gravy again through the strainer1 heat it1 add salt and pepper or cayenne1 if needed1 and serve it extremely hot4 ,when this is done1 the fowl should be basted with good butter only1 and well floured when it is first laid to the fire4 ,many cooks always mix the gravy from the pan when game is roasted1 with that which they send to table with it1 as they think that it enriches the flavour2 but to many persons it is peculiarly distasteful4 ,neck of fowl2 water1 #a_/b pint2 pepper1 salt 7little vegetable and spice at choice73 stewed gently1 #a hour2 strained1 stirred to the gravy of the roast1 well cleared from fat4 ,,another ,,cheap ,,gravy ,,for ,a ,,fowl4 ,a little good broth added to half a dozen dice of lean ham1 lightly browned in a morsel of butter1 with half a dozen corns of pepper and a small branch or two of parsley1 and stewed for half an hour1 will make excellent gravy of a common kind4 ,when there is no broth1 the neck of the chicken must be stewed down to supply its place4 ,,gravy ,,or ,,sauce ,,for ,a ,,goose4 ,mince1 and brown in a small saucepan1 with a slice of butter1 two ounces of mild onion14 ,when it begins to brown1 stir to it a teaspoonful of flour1 and in five or six minutes afterwards1 pour in by degrees the third of a pint of good brown gravy2 let this simmer fifteen minutes2 strain it1 bring it again to the point of boiling1 and add to it a teaspoonful of made mustard mixed well with a glass of port wine4 ,season it with cayenne and pepper and salt1 if this last be needed4 ,do not let the sauce boil after the wine is added1 but serve it very hot4 ,onions1 #b oz42 butter1 #a-a_/b oz43 #aj to #ae minutes4 ,flour1 #a teaspoonful3 #e to #f minutes4 ,gravy1 #a_/c pint3 #ae minutes4 ,mustard1 #a teaspoonful2 port wine1 #a glassful2 cayenne pepper2 salt4 ,see also ,christopher ,north's own sauce1 page #aai4 ,,orange ,,gravy ,,for ,,wild ,,fowl4 ,boil for about ten minutes1 in half a pint of rich and highly-flavoured brown gravy1 or ,espagnole1 half the rind of a ,seville orange1 pared as thin as possible1 and a small strip of lemon-rind1 with a bit of sugar the size of a hazel-nut4 ,strain it off1 add to it a quarter pint of port or claret1 the juice of half a lemon1 and a tablespoonful of ,seville orange-juice3 season it with cayenne1 and serve it as hot as possible4 ,gravy1 #a_/b pint2 #a_/b the rind of a ,seville orange2 lemon-peel1 #a small strip2 sugar1 size of hazel-nut3 #aj minutes4 ,juice of #a_/b a lemon2 ,seville orange-juice1 #a tablespoonful2 cayenne4 ,see also ,christopher ,north's own sauce1 page #aai4 ,,meat ,,jellies ,,for ,,pies ,,and ,,sauces4 ,a very firm meat jelly is easily made by stewing slowly down equal parts of shin of beef1 and knuckle or neck of veal1 with a pint of cold water to each pound of meat2 but to give it flavour1 some thick slices of lean unboiled ham should be added to it1 two or three carrots1 some spice1 a bunch of parsley1 one mild onion1 or more1 and a moderate quantity of salt2 or part of the meat may be omitted1 and a calf's head1 or the scalp of one1 very advantageously substituted for it1 though the flavouring must then be heightened1 because1 though very gelatinous1 these are in themselves exceedingly insipid to the taste4 ,if rapidly boiled1 the jelly will not be clear1 and it will be difficult to render it so without clarifying it with the whites of eggs1 which it ought never to require2 if very gently stewed1 on the contrary1 it will only need to be passed through a fine sieve1 or cloth4 ,the fat must be carefully removed1 after it is quite cold4 ,the shin of beef recommended for this and other receipts1 should be from the middle of the leg of young heifer beef1 not of that which is large and coarse4 ,middle of small shin of beef1 #c lbs42 knuckle or neck of veal1 #c lbs42 lean of ham1 #a_/b lb42 water1 #c quarts2 carrots1 #b large1 or #c small2 bunch of parsley2 #a mild onion1 stuck with #h cloves2 #b small bay-leaves2 #a large blade of mace2 small saltspoonful of peppercorns2 salt1 #c_/d oz4 7more if needed73 #e to #f hours' very gentle stewing4 ,obs4--,a finer jelly may be made by using a larger proportion of veal than of beef1 and by adding clear beef or veal broth to it instead of water1 in a small proportion at first1 as directed in the receipt for consomm1 see page #ih1 and by pouring in the remainder when the meat is heated through4 ,the necks of poultry1 any inferior joints of them omitted from a fricassee or other dish1 or an old fowl1 will further improve it much2 an eschalot or two may at choice be boiled down in it1 instead of the onion1 but the flavour should be scarcely perceptible4 ,a ,,cheaper ,,meat ,,jelly4 ,one calf's foot1 a pound and a half or two pounds of neck of veal or beef1 a small onion1 a carrot1 a bunch of parsley1 a little spice1 a bit or two of quite lean ham1 dressed or undressed1 and five half pints of water1 boiled very slowly for five or six hours will give a strong1 though not a highly-flavoured jelly4 ,more ham1 any bones of unboiled meat1 poultry1 or game will1 in this respect1 improve it2 and the liquor in which fowls or veal have been boiled for table should1 when at hand1 be used for it instead of water4 ,these jellies keep much better and longer when no vegetables are stewed down in them4 ,,glaze4 ,this is merely strong1 clear gravy or jelly boiled quickly down to the consistence of thin cream2 but this reduction must be carefully managed that the glaze may be brought to the proper point without being burned2 it must be attentively watched1 and stirred without being quitted for a moment from the time of its beginning to thicken2 when it has reached the proper degree of boiling1 it will jelly in dropping from the spoon1 like preserve1 and should then be poured out immediately1 or it will burn4 ,when wanted for use1 melt it gently by placing the vessel which contains it 7see article ,glazing1 ,chapter ,,ix47 in a pan of boiling water1 and with a paste-brush lay it on to the meat1 upon which it will form a sort of clear varnish4 ,in consequence of the very great reduction which it undergoes1 salt should be added to it sparingly when it is made4 ,any kind of stock may be boiled down to glaze2 but unless it be strong1 a pint will afford but a spoonful or two3 a small quantity of it1 however1 is generally sufficient1 unless a large repast is to be served4 ,two or three layers must be given to each joint4 ,the jellies which precede this will answer for it extremely well2 and it may be made also with shin of beef stock1 for common occasions1 when no other is at hand4 ,,aspic1 ,,or ,,clear ,,savoury-,,jelly4 ,boil a couple of calf's feet1 with three or four pounds of knuckle of veal1 three quarters of a pound of lean ham1 two large onions1 three whole carrots1 and a large bunch of herbs1 in a gallon of water1 till it is reduced more than half4 ,strain it off2 when perfectly cold1 remove every particle of fat and sediment1 and put the jelly into a very clean stewpan1 with four whites of eggs well beaten2 keep it stirred until it is nearly boiling2 then place it by the side of the fire to simmer for a quarter of an hour4 ,let it settle1 and pour it through a jelly-bag until it is quite clear4 ,add1 when it first begins to boil1 three blades of mace1 a teaspoonful of white peppercorns1 and sufficient salt to flavour it properly1 allowing for the ham1 and the reduction4 ,french cooks flavour this jelly with tarragon vinegar when it is clarified2 cold poultry1 game1 fish1 plovers' eggs1 truffles1 and various dressed vegetables1 with many other things often elaborately prepared1 and highly ornamental1 are moulded and served in it1 especially at large dejeuners and similar repasts4 ,it is also much used to decorate raised pies1 and hams2 and for many other purposes of the table4 ,calf's feet1 #b2 veal1 #d lbs42 ham1 #c_/d lb42 onions1 #b2 carrots1 #c2 herbs1 large bunch2 mace1 #c blades2 white whole pepper1 #a teaspoonful2 water1 #a gallon3 #e to #f hours4 ,whites of eggs1 #d3 #ae minutes4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,chapter ,v4 ,sauces4 ,,introductory ,,remarks4 ,illustration3 ,bain ,marie1 or ,water ,bath4 ,,the difference between good and bad cookery can scarcely be more strikingly shown than in the manner in which sauces are prepared and served4 ,if well made1 appropriate to the dishes they accompany1 and sent to table with them as hot as possible1 they not only give a heightened relish to a dinner1 but they prove that both skill and taste have been exerted in its arrangements4 ,when coarsely or carelessly prepared1 on the contrary1 as they too often are1 they greatly discredit the cook1 and are anything but acceptable to the eaters4 ,melted butter1 the most common of all--the 8one sauce of ,england10 as it is called by foreigners1 and which forms in reality the basis of a large number of those which are served in this country--is often so ill prepared1 being either oiled or lumpy1 or composed principally of flour and water1 that it says but little for the state of cookery amongst us4 ,we trust that the receipts in the present chapter are so far clearly given1 that if strictly followed they will materially assist the learner in preparing tolerably palatable sauces at the least4 ,the cut at the commencement of the chapter exhibits a vessel called a bain marie1 in which saucepans are placed when it is necessary to keep their contents hot without allowing them to boil3 it is extremely useful when dinners are delayed after they are ready to serve4 ,,to ,,thicken ,,sauces4 ,when this is done with the yolks of eggs1 they should first be well beaten1 and then mixed with a spoonful of cold stock should it be at hand1 and with one or two of the boiling sauce1 which should be stirred very quickly to them1 and they must in turn be stirred briskly to the sauce1 which may be held over the fire1 and well shaken for an instant afterwards1 but never placed upon it1 nor allowed to boil4 ,to the roux or ,french thickening 7which follows71 the gravy or other liquid which is to be mixed with it should be poured boiling and in small quantities1 the saucepan being often well shaken round1 and the sauce made to boil up after each portion is added4 ,if this precaution be observed1 the butter will never float upon the surface1 but the whole will be well and smoothly blended3 it will otherwise be difficult to clear the sauce from it perfectly4 ,for invalids1 or persons who object to butter in their soups or sauces1 flour only mixed to a smooth batter1 and stirred into the boiling liquid may be substituted for other thickening3 arrow-root also used in the same way1 will answer even better than flour4 ,,french ,,thickening1 ,,or ,,brown ,,roux4 ,for ordinary purposes this may be made as it is wanted for use2 but when it is required for various dishes at the same time or for cookery upon a large scale1 it can be prepared at once in sufficient quantity to last for several days1 and it will remain good for some time4 ,dissolve1 with a very gentle degree of heat1 half a pound of good butter1 then draw it from the fire1 skim it well1 give time for it to settle1 pour it gently from the sediment into a very clean frying-pan1 and place it over a slow but clear fire4 ,put into a dredging box about seven ounces of fine dry flour2 add it gradually to the butter1 shake the pan often as it is thrown in1 and keep the thickening constantly stirred until it has acquired a clear light brown colour4 ,it should be very slowly and equally done1 or its flavour will be unpleasant4 ,pour it into a jar1 and stir a spoonful or two as it is needed into boiling soup or gravy4 ,when the butter is not clarified it will absorb an additional ounce of flour1 the whole of which ought to be fine and dry4 ,this thickening may be made in a well-tinned stewpan even better than in a frying-pan1 and if simmered over a coal fire it should be placed high above it1 and well guarded from smoke4 ,,white ,,roux1 ,,or ,,french ,,thickening4 ,proceed exactly as for the preceding receipt1 but dredge in the flour as soon as the butter is in full simmer1 and be careful not to allow the thickening to take the slightest colour3 this is used for white gravies or sauces4 ,,sauce ,,tourn,e1 ,,or ,,pale ,,thickened ,,gravy4 ,sauce tourne is nothing more than rich pale gravy made with veal or poultry 7see ,consomm1 ,chapter ,,iv47 and thickened with delicate white roux4 ,the ,french give it a flavouring of mushrooms and green onions1 by boiling some of each in it for about half an hour before the sauce is served3 it must then be strained1 previously to being dished4 ,either first dissolve an ounce of butter1 and then dredge gradually to it three-quarters of an ounce of flour1 and proceed as for the preceding receipt2 or blend the flour and butter perfectly with a knife before they are thrown into the stewpan1 and keep them stirred without ceasing over a clear and gentle fire until they have simmered for some minutes1 then place the stewpan high over the fire1 and shake it constantly until the roux has lost the raw taste of the flour2 next1 stir very gradually to it a pint of the gravy1 which should be boiling4 ,set it by the side of the stove for a few minutes1 skim it thoroughly1 and serve it without delay4 ,butter1 #a oz42 flour1 #c_/d oz42 strong pale gravy1 seasoned with mushrooms and green onions1 #a pint4 ,obs4 #c4--,with the addition of three or four yolks of very fresh eggs1 mixed with a seasoning of mace1 cayenne1 and lemon-juice1 this becomes ,german sauce1 now much used for fricassees1 and other dishes2 and minced parsley 7boiled7 and chili vinegar1 each in sufficient quantity to flavour it agreeably1 convert it into a good fish sauce4 ,b,,chamel4 ,this is a fine ,french white sauce1 now very much served at good ,english tables4 ,it may be made in various ways1 and more or less expensively2 but it should always be thick1 smooth1 and rich1 though delicate in flavour4 ,the most ready mode of preparing it is to take an equal portion of very strong1 pale veal gravy1 and of good cream 7a pint of each for example71 and then1 by rapid boiling over a very clear fire1 to reduce the gravy nearly half2 next1 to mix with part of the cream a tablespoonful of fine dry flour1 to pour it to the remainder1 when it boils1 and to keep the whole stirred for five minutes or more over a slow fire1 for if placed upon a fierce one it would be liable to burn2 then to add the gravy1 to stir and mix the sauce perfectly1 and to simmer it for a few minutes longer4 ,all the flavour should be given by the gravy1 in which ,french cooks boil a handful of mushrooms1 a few green onions1 and some branches of parsley before it is reduced3 but a good bchamel may be made without them1 with a strong consomm 7see pale veal gravy1 page #ih7 well reduced4 ,strong pale veal gravy 7flavoured with mushrooms or not71 #a pint3 reduced half4 ,rich cream1 #a pint2 flour1 #a tablespoonful3 #e minutes4 ,with gravy1 #d or #e minutes4 ,obs4--,velout1 which is a rather thinner sauce or gravy1 is made by simply well reducing the cream and stock separately1 and then mixing them together without any thickening4 ,b,,chamel ,,maigre4 7,a cheap ,white ,sauce47 ,a good bchamel may be made entirely without meat1 when economy is an object1 or when no gravy is at hand4 ,put into a stewpan1 or a well-tinned and thick saucepan1 with from two to three ounces of butter1 a carrot1 and a couple of small onions1 cut in slices1 with a handful of nicely-cleaned mushroom buttons1 when these last can be easily procured2 and when they have stewed slowly for half an hour1 or until the butter is nearly dried up1 stir in two tablespoonsful of flour1 and pour in a pint of new milk1 a little at a time1 shaking the stewpan well round1 that the sauce may be smooth4 ,boil the bchamel gently for half an hour2 add a little salt1 and cayenne2 strain1 and reduce it1 if not quite thick1 or pour it boiling to the yolks of two fresh eggs4 ,,another ,,common ,b,,chamel4 ,cut half a pound of veal1 and a slice of lean ham or smoked beef1 into small dice1 and stew them in butter1 with vegetables1 as directed in the foregoing receipt3 stir in the same proportion of flour1 then add the milk1 and let the sauce boil very gently for an hour4 ,it should not be allowed to thicken too much before it is strained4 ,obs4--,common bchamel1 with the addition of a spoonful of made-mustard1 is an excellent sauce for boiled mutton4 ,,rich ,,melted ,,butter4 ,this is more particularly required in general for lobster sauce1 when it is to be served with turbot or brill1 and for good oyster sauce4 ,salmon is itself so rich1 that less butter is needed for it than for sauce which is to accompany a drier fish4 ,mix to a very smooth batter a dessertspoonful of flour1 a half-saltspoonful of salt1 and half a pint of cold water3 put these into a delicately clean saucepan1 with from four to six ounces of well-flavoured butter1 cut into small bits1 and shake the sauce strongly round1 almost without cessation1 until the ingredients are perfectly blended1 and it is on the point of boiling2 let it simmer for two or three minutes1 and it will be ready for use4 ,the best ,french cooks recommend its not being allowed to boil1 as they say it tastes less of flour if served when it is just at the point of simmering4 ,cold water1 #a_/b pint2 salt1 #a_/b spoonful2 flour1 #a dessertspoonful3 #c to #d minutes4 ,butter1 #d to #f oz4 ,,melted ,,butter4 7,a good common ,receipt47 ,put into a basin a large teaspoonful of flour1 and a little salt1 then mix with them very gradually and very smoothly a quarter of a pint of cold water2 turn these into a small clean saucepan1 and shake or stir them constantly over a clear fire until they have boiled a couple of minutes1 then add an ounce and a half of butter cut small1 keep the sauce stirred until this is entirely dissolved1 give the whole a minute's boil1 and serve it quickly4 ,the more usual mode is to put the butter in at first with the flour and water2 but for inexperienced or unskilful cooks the safer plan is to follow the present receipt4 ,water1 #a_/d pint2 flour1 #a teaspoonful3 #b minutes4 ,butter1 #a-a_/b oz42 #a minute4 ,obs4--,to render this a rich sauce1 increase or even double the proportion of butter4 ,,french ,,melted ,,butter4 ,pour half a pint of good but not very thick1 boiling melted butter to the well-beaten yolks of two or three fresh eggs1 and stir them briskly as it is added2 put the sauce again into the saucepan1 and shake it high over the fire for an instant1 but do not allow it to boil or it will curdle4 ,add a little lemon-juice or vinegar1 and serve it immediately4 ,,norfolk ,,sauce1 ,,or ,,rich ,,melted ,,butter ,,without ,,flour4 ,put three tablespoonsful of water into a small saucepan1 and when it boils add four ounces of fresh butter2 as soon as this is quite dissolved1 take the saucepan from the fire1 and shake it round until the sauce looks thick and smooth4 ,it must not be allowed to boil after the butter is added4 ,water1 #c tablespoonsful2 butter1 #d oz4 ,,white ,,melted ,,butter4 ,thicken half a pint of new milk with rather less flour than is directed for the common melted butter1 or with a little arrow-root1 and stir into it by degrees after it has boiled1 a couple of ounces of fresh butter cut small2 do not cease to stir the sauce until this is entirely dissolved1 or it may become oiled1 and float upon the top ,thin cream1 substituted for the milk1 and flavoured with a few strips of lemon-rind cut extremely thin1 some salt1 and a small quantity of pounded mace1 if mixed with rather less flour1 and the same proportion of butter1 will make an excellent sauce to serve with fowls or other dishes1 when no gravy is at hand to make white sauce in the usual way4 ,,burnt ,,or ,,browned ,,butter4 ,melt in a frying-pan three ounces of fresh butter1 and keep it stirred slowly over a gentle fire until it is of a dark brown colour2 then pour to it a couple of tablespoonsful of good hot vinegar1 and season it with black pepper and a little salt4 ,in ,france this is a favourite sauce with boiled skate1 which is served with plenty of crisped parsley1 in addition1 strewed over it4 ,it is also often poured over poached eggs there3 it is called beurre noir4 ,butter1 #c oz42 vinegar1 #b tablespoonsful2 pepper2 salt4 ,,clarified ,,butter4 ,put the butter into a very clean and well-tinned saucepan or enamelled stewpan1 and melt it gently over a clear fire2 when it just begins to simmer1 skim it thoroughly1 draw it from the fire1 and let it stand a few minutes that the buttermilk may sink to the bottom2 then pour it clear of the sediment through a muslin strainer or a fine hair-sieve2 put it into jars1 and store them in a cool place4 ,butter thus prepared will answer for all the ordinary purposes of cookery1 and remain good for a great length of time4 ,in ,france1 large quantities are melted down in autumn for winter use4 ,the clarified butter ordered for the various receipts in this volume1 is merely dissolved with a gentle degree of heat in a small saucepan1 skimmed1 and poured out for use1 leaving the thick sediment behind4 ,,very ,,good ,,egg ,,sauce4 ,boil four fresh eggs for quite fifteen minutes1 then lay them into plenty of fresh water1 and let them remain until they are perfectly cold4 ,break the shells by rolling them on a table1 take them off1 separate the whites from the yolks1 and divide all of the latter into quarter-inch dice2 mince two of the whites tolerably small1 mix them lightly1 and stir them into the third of a pint of rich melted butter or of white sauce3 serve the whole as hot as possible4 ,eggs1 #d3 boiled #ae minutes1 left till cold4 ,the yolks of all1 whites of #b2 third of pint of good melted butter or white sauce4 ,salt as needed4 ,,sauce ,,of ,,turkeys' ,,eggs4 7,excellent47 ,the eggs of the turkey make a sauce much superior to those of the common fowl4 ,they should be gently boiled in plenty of water for twenty minutes4 ,the yolks of three1 and the whites of one and a half1 will make a very rich sauce if prepared by the directions of the foregoing receipt4 ,the eggs of the guinea fowl also may be converted into a similar sauce with ten minutes' boiling4 ,their delicate size will render it necessary to increase the number taken for it4 ,,common ,,egg ,,sauce4 ,boil a couple of eggs hard1 and when quite cold cut the whites and yolks separately2 mix them well1 put them into a very hot tureen1 and pour boiling to them a quarter of a pint of melted butter1 stir1 and serve the sauce immediately4 ,whole eggs1 #b2 melted butter1 #a_/d pint4 ,,egg ,,sauce ,,for ,,calf',s ,,head4 ,this is a provincial sauce1 served sometimes with fish1 and with calf's head likewise4 ,thicken to the proper consistence with flour and butter some good pale veal gravy1 throw into it when it boils from one to two large teaspoonsful of minced parsley1 add a slight squeeze of lemon-juice1 a little cayenne1 and then the eggs4 ,veal gravy1 #a_/b pint2 flour1 #a-a_/b oz42 butter1 #b oz42 minced parsley1 #a dessertspoonful2 lemon-juice1 #a teaspoonful2 little cayenne2 eggs1 #c to #d4 ,,english ,,white ,,sauce4 ,boil softly in half a pint of well-flavoured pale veal gravy a few very thin strips of fresh lemon-rind1 for just sufficient time to give their flavour to it2 stir in a thickening of arrow-root1 or of flour and butter1 add salt if needed1 and mix with the gravy a quarter of a pint of boiling cream4 ,for the best kind of white sauce1 see bchamel1 page #ajg4 ,good pale veal gravy1 #a_/b pint2 third of #a lemon-rind3 #ae to #bj minutes4 ,freshly pounded mace1 third of saltspoonful2 butter1 #a to #b oz42 flour1 #a teaspoonful 7or arrow-root an equal quantity72 cream1 #a_/d pint4 ,,very ,,common ,,white ,,sauce4 ,the neck and the feet of a fowl1 nicely cleaned1 and stewed down in half a pint of water1 until it is reduced to less than a quarter of a pint1 with a thin strip or two of lemon-rind1 a small blade of mace1 a small branch or two of parsley1 a little salt1 and half a dozen corns of pepper1 then strained1 thickened1 and flavoured by the preceding receipt1 and mixed with something more than half the quantity of cream1 will answer for this sauce extremely well2 and if it be added1 when made1 to the liver of the chicken1 previously boiled for six minutes in the gravy1 then bruised to a smooth paste1 and passed through a sieve1 an excellent liver sauce4 ,a little strained lemon-juice is generally added to it when it is ready to serve3 it should be stirred very briskly in4 ,,dutch ,,sauce4 ,put into a small saucepan the yolks of three fresh eggs1 the juice of a large lemon1 three ounces of butter1 a little salt and nutmeg1 and a wineglassful of water4 ,hold the saucepan over a clear fire1 and keep the sauce stirred until it nearly boils3 a little cayenne may be added4 ,the safest way of making all sauces that will curdle by being allowed to boil1 is to put them into a jar1 and to set the jar over the fire in a saucepan of boiling water1 and then to stir the ingredients constantly until the sauce is thickened sufficiently to serve4 ,yolks of eggs1 #c2 juice1 #a lemon2 butter1 #c oz42 little salt and nutmeg2 water1 #a wineglassful2 cayenne at pleasure4 ,obs4--,a small cupful of veal gravy1 mixed with plenty of blanched and chopped parsley1 may be used instead of water for this sauce1 when it is to be served with boiled veal1 or with calf's head4 ,,fricassee ,,sauce4 ,stir briskly1 but by degrees1 to the well-beaten yolks of two large or of three small fresh eggs1 half a pint of common ,english white sauce2 put it again into the saucepan1 give it a shake over the fire1 but be extremely careful not to allow it to boil1 and just before it is served stir in a dessertspoonful of strained lemon-juice4 ,when meat or chickens are fricasseed1 they should be lifted from the saucepan with a slice1 drained on it from the sauce1 and laid into a very hot dish before the eggs are added1 and when these are just set1 the sauce should be poured on them4 ,,bread ,,sauce4 ,pour quite boiling1 on half a pint of the finest bread-crumbs1 an equal measure of new milk2 cover them closely with a plate1 and let the sauce remain for twenty or thirty minutes2 put it then into a delicately clean saucepan1 with a small saltspoonful of salt1 half as much pounded mace1 a little cayenne1 and about an ounce of fresh butter2 keep it stirred constantly over a clear fire for a few minutes1 then mix with it a couple of spoonsful of good cream1 give it a boil1 and serve it immediately4 ,when cream is not to be had1 an additional spoonful or two of milk must be used4 ,the bread used for sauce should be stale1 and lightly grated down into extremely small crumbs1 or the preparation will look rough when sent to table4 ,not only the crust1 but all heavy-looking or imperfectly baked portions of it1 should be entirely pared off1 and it should be pressed against the grater only so much as will reduce it easily into crumbs4 ,when stale bread cannot be procured1 the new should be sliced thin1 or broken up small1 and beaten quite smooth with a fork after it has been soaked4 ,as some will absorb more liquid than others1 the cook must increase a little the above proportion should it be needed4 ,equal parts of milk and of thin cream make an excellent bread sauce3 more butter can be used to enrich it when it is liked4 ,bread-crumbs and new milk1 each #a_/b pint 7or any other measure72 soaked #bj to #cj minutes1 or more4 ,salt1 small saltspoonful2 mace1 half as much2 little cayenne2 butter1 #a oz42 boiled #d to #e minutes4 #b to #d spoonsful of good cream 7or milk73 #a minute4 ,or3 bread-crumbs1 #a_/b pint2 milk and cream1 each #a_/d pint2 and from #b to #d spoonsful of either in addition4 ,obs4--,very pale1 strong veal gravy is sometimes poured on the bread-crumbs1 instead of milk2 and these1 after being soaked1 are boiled extremely dry1 and then brought to the proper consistence with rich cream4 ,the gravy may be highly flavoured with mushrooms when this is done4 ,,bread ,,sauce ,,with ,,onion4 ,put into a very clean saucepan nearly half a pint of fine bread-crumbs1 and the white part of a large mild onion cut into quarters2 pour to these three-quarters of a pint of new milk1 and boil them very gently1 keeping them often stirred until the onion is perfectly tender1 which will be in from forty minutes to an hour4 ,press the whole through a hair-sieve1 which should be as clean as possible2 reduce the sauce by quick boiling should it be too thin2 add a seasoning of salt and grated nutmeg1 an ounce of butter1 and four spoonsful of cream2 and when it is of a proper thickness1 dish1 and send it quickly to table4 ,bread-crumbs1 nearly #a_/b pint2 white part of #a large mild onion2 new milk1 #c_/d pint3 #dj to #fj minutes4 ,seasoning of salt and grated nutmeg2 butter1 #a oz42 cream1 #d tablespoonsful3 to be boiled till of a proper consistence4 ,obs4--,this is an excellent sauce for those who like a subdued flavour of onion in it2 but as many persons object to any1 the cook should ascertain whether it be liked before she follows this receipt4 ,,common ,,lobster ,,sauce4 ,add to half a pint of good melted butter a tablespoonful of essence of anchovies1 a small half-saltspoonful of freshly pounded mace1 and less than a quarter one of cayenne4 ,if a couple of spoonsful of cream should be at hand1 stir them to the sauce when it boils2 then put in the flesh of the tail and claws of a small lobster cut into dice 7or any other form7 of equal size4 ,keep the saucepan by the side of the fire until the fish is quite heated through1 but do not let the sauce boil again3 serve it very hot4 ,a small quantity can be made on occasion with the remains of a lobster which has been served at table4 ,melted butter1 #a_/b pint2 essence of anchovies1 #a tablespoonful2 pounded mace1 small #a_/b saltspoonful2 less than #a_/d one of cayenne2 cream 7if added71 #b tablespoonsful2 flesh of small lobster4 ,,good ,,lobster ,,sauce4 ,select for this a perfectly fresh hen lobster2 split the tail carefully1 and take out the inside coral2 pound half of it in a mortar very smoothly with less than an ounce of butter1 rub it through a hair-sieve1 and put it aside4 ,cut the firm flesh of the fish into dice of not less than half an inch in size2 and when these are ready1 make as much good melted butter as will supply the quantity of sauce required for table1 and if to be served with a turbot or other large fish to a numerous company1 let it be plentifully provided4 ,season it slightly with essence of anchovies1 and well with cayenne1 mace1 and salt2 add to it a few spoonsful of rich cream1 and then mix a small portion of it very gradually with the pounded coral2 when this is sufficiently liquefied pour it into the sauce1 and stir the whole well together2 put in immediately the flesh of the fish1 and heat the sauce thoroughly by the side of the fire without allowing it to boil1 for if it should do so its fine colour would be destroyed4 ,the whole of the coral may be used for the sauce when no portion of it is required for other purposes4 ,,crab ,,sauce4 ,the flesh of a fresh well-conditioned crab of moderate size is more tender and delicate than that of a lobster1 and may be converted into an excellent fish sauce4 ,divide it into small flakes1 and add it to some good melted butter1 which has been flavoured as for either of the sauces above4 ,a portion of the cream contained in the fish may first be smoothly mingled with the sauce4 ,,good ,,oyster ,,sauce4 ,at the moment they are wanted for use1 open three dozen of fine plump native oysters2 save carefully and strain their liquor1 rinse them separately in it1 put them into a very clean saucepan1 strain the liquor again1 and pour it to them2 heat them slowly1 and keep them from one to two minutes at the simmering point1 without allowing them to boil1 as that will render them hard4 ,lift them out and beard them neatly2 add to the liquor three ounces of butter smoothly mixed with a large dessertspoonful of flour2 stir these without ceasing until they boil1 and are perfectly mixed2 then add to them gradually a quarter of a pint1 or rather more1 of new milk1 or of thin cream 7or equal parts of both71 and continue the stirring until the sauce boils again2 add a little salt1 should it be needed1 and a small quantity of cayenne in the finest powder2 put in the oysters1 and keep the saucepan by the side of the fire until the whole is thoroughly hot and begins to simmer1 then turn the sauce into a well-heated tureen1 and send it immediately to table4 ,small plump oysters1 #c dozen2 butter1 #c oz42 flour1 #a large dessertspoonful2 the oyster liquor2 milk or cream1 full #a_/d pint2 little salt and cayenne4 ,,common ,,oyster ,,sauce4 ,prepare and plump two dozen of oysters as directed in the receipt above2 add their strained liquor to a quarter of a pint of thick melted butter made with milk1 or with half milk and half water2 stir the whole until it boils1 put in the oysters1 and when they are quite heated through send the sauce to table without delay4 ,some persons like a little cayenne and essence of anchovies added to it when it is served with fish2 others prefer the unmixed flavour of the oysters4 ,oysters1 #b dozens2 their liquor2 melted butter1 #a_/d pint4 7,little cayenne and #a dessertspoonful of essence of anchovies when liked47 ,,shrimp ,,sauce4 ,the fish for this sauce should be very fresh4 ,shell quickly one pint of shrimps and mix them with half a pint of melted butter1 to which a few drops of essence of anchovies and a little mace and cayenne have been added4 ,as soon as the shrimps are heated through1 dish1 and serve the sauce1 which ought not to boil after they are put in4 ,many persons add a few spoonsful of rich cream to all shell-fish sauces4 ,shrimps1 #a pint2 melted butter1 #a_/b pint2 essence of anchovies1 #a teaspoonful2 mace1 #a_/d teaspoonful2 cayenne1 very little4 ,,anchovy ,,sauce4 ,to half a pint of good melted butter add three dessertspoonsful of essence of anchovies1 a quarter of a teaspoonful of mace1 and a rather high seasoning of cayenne2 or pound the flesh of two or three fine mellow anchovies very smooth1 mix it with the boiling butter1 simmer these for a minute or two1 strain the sauce if needful1 add the spices1 give it a boil1 and serve it4 ,melted butter1 #a_/b pint2 essence of anchovies1 #c dessertspoonsful2 mace1 #a_/d teaspoonful2 cayenne1 to taste4 ,or1 #c large anchovies finely pounded1 and the same proportions of butter and spice4 ,,cream ,,sauce ,,for ,,fish4 ,knead very smoothly together with a strong-bladed knife1 a large teaspoonful of flour with three ounces of good butter2 stir them in a very clean saucepan or stewpan over a gentle fire until the butter is dissolved1 then throw in a little salt and some cayenne1 give the whole one minute's simmer1 and add1 very gradually1 half a pint of good cream2 keep the sauce constantly stirred until it boils1 then mix with it a dessertspoonful of essence of anchovies1 and half as much chili vinegar or lemon-juice4 ,the addition of shelled shrimps or lobsters cut in dice1 will convert this at once into a most excellent sauce of either4 ,pounded mace may be added to it with the cayenne2 and it may be thinned with a few spoonsful of milk should it be too thick4 ,omit the essence of anchovies1 and mix with it some parsley boiled very green and minced1 and it becomes a good sauce for poultry4 ,butter1 #c oz42 flour1 #a large teaspoonful3 #b to #c minutes4 ,cream1 #a_/b pint2 essence of anchovies1 #a large dessertspoonful 7more if liked72 chili vinegar or lemon-juice1 #a teaspoonful2 salt1 #a_/d saltspoonful4 ,,sharp ,,ma,,tre ,d',h,,tel ,,sauce4 7,english ,receipt47 ,for a rich sauce of this kind1 mix a dessertspoonful of flour with four ounces of good butter1 but with from two to three ounces only for common occasions2 knead them together until they resemble a smooth paste1 then proceed exactly as for the sauce above1 but substitute good pale veal gravy1 or strong1 pure-flavoured veal broth1 or shin of beef stock 7which if well made has little colour71 for the cream2 and when these have boiled for two or three minutes1 stir in a tablespoonful of common vinegar and one of chili vinegar1 with as much cayenne as will flavour the sauce well1 and some salt1 should it be needed2 throw in from two to three dessertspoonsful of finely-minced parsley1 give the whole a boil1 and it will be ready to serve4 ,a tablespoonful of mushroom catsup or of ,harvey's sauce may be added with the vinegar when the colour of the sauce is immaterial4 ,it may be served with boiled calf's head1 or with boiled eels with good effect2 and various kinds of cold meat and fish may be re-warmed for table in it1 as we have directed in another part of this volume4 ,with a little more flour1 and a flavouring of essence of anchovies1 it will make1 without the parsley1 an excellent sauce for these last1 when they are first dressed4 ,butter1 #b to #d oz42 flour1 #a dessertspoonful2 pale veal gravy or strong broth1 or shin of beef stock1 #a_/b pint2 cayenne2 salt1 if needed2 common vinegar1 #a tablespoonful2 chili vinegar1 #a tablespoonful4 7,catsup or ,harvey's sauce1 according to circumstances47 ,,french ,,ma,,tre ,d',h,,tel1#ee ,,or ,,steward',s ,,sauce4 ,footnote #ee3 ,the ,matre d',htel is1 properly1 the ,house ,steward4 ,add to half a pint of rich1 pale veal gravy1 well thickened with the white roux of page #ajh1 a good seasoning of pepper1 salt1 minced parsley1 and lemon-juice2 or make the thickening with a small tablespoonful of flour1 and a couple of ounces of butter2 keep these stirred constantly over a very gentle fire from ten to fifteen minutes1 then pour the gravy to them boiling1 in small portions1 mixing the whole well as it is added1 and letting it boil up between each1 for unless this be done the butter will be likely to float upon the surface4 ,simmer the sauce for a few minutes1 and skim it well1 then add salt should it be needed1 a tolerable seasoning of pepper or of cayenne in fine powder1 from two to three teaspoonsful of minced parsley1 and the strained juice of a small lemon4 ,for some dishes1 this sauce is thickened with the yolks of eggs1 about four to the pint4 ,the ,french work into their sauces generally a small bit of fresh butter just before they are taken from the fire1 to give them mellowness3 this is done usually for the ,matre d',htel ,sauce4 ,,ma,,tre ,d',h,,tel ,,sauce ,,maigre1#ef ,,or ,,without ,,gravy4 ,footnote #ef3 ,maigre1 made without meat4 ,substitute half a pint of good melted butter for the gravy1 and add to it the same seasonings as above4 ,a double quantity of these sauces will be needed when they are required to cover a large fish2 in that case they should be thick enough to adhere to it well4 ,melted butter1 #a_/b pint2 seasoning of salt and pepper1 or cayenne2 minced parsley1 #b to #c teaspoonsful2 juice1 #a small lemon4 ,for ,,cold ,,ma,,tre ,d',h,,tel ,,sauce1 see ,chapter ,,vi4 ,,the ,,lady',s ,,sauce4 7,for ,fish47 ,pound to a very smooth paste the inside coral of a lobster with a small slice of butter1 and some cayenne2 rub it through a hair-sieve1 gather it together1 and mix it very smoothly with from half to three-quarters of a pint of sauce tourne or of cream fish-sauce1 previously well seasoned with cayenne and salt1 and moderately with pounded mace2 bring it to the point of boiling only2 stir in quickly1 but gradually1 a tablespoonful of strained lemon-juice1 and serve it very hot4 ,when neither cream nor gravy is at hand1 substitute rich melted butter mixed with a dessertspoonful or two of essence of anchovies1 and well seasoned4 ,the fine colour of the coral will be destroyed by boiling4 ,this sauce1 which the ,french call ,sauce l',aurore1 may be served with brill1 boiled soles1 gray mullet1 and some few other kinds of fish3 it is quickly made when the lobster butter of ,chapter ,,vi4 is in the house4 ,coral of lobster1 pounded2 cream sauce1 or sauce tourne 7thickened pale veal gravy71 #a_/b to #c_/d pint2 lemon-juice1 #a tablespoonful2 salt1 cayenne1 and mace1 as needed4 ,or3 rich melted butter1 instead of other sauce2 essence of anchovies1 #b dessertspoonsful2 other seasoning1 as above4 ,obs4--,the proportion of spices here must1 of course1 depend on the flavouring which the gravy or sauce may already have received4 ,,genevese ,,sauce1 ,,or ,,sauce ,g,n,,voise4 ,cut into dice three ounces of the lean of a well-flavoured ham1 and put them with half a small carrot1 four cloves1 a blade of mace1 two or three very small sprigs of lemon thyme and of parsley1 and rather more than an ounce of butter1 into a stewpan2 just simmer them from three-quarters of an hour to a whole hour1 then stir in a teaspoonful of flour2 continue the slow stewing for about five minutes1 and pour in by degrees a pint of good boiling veal gravy1 and let the sauce again simmer softly for nearly an hour4 ,strain it off1 heat it in a clean saucepan1 and when it boils1 stir in a wineglassful and a half of good sherry or ,madeira1 two tablespoonsful of lemon-juice1 some cayenne1 a little salt if needed1 and a small tablespoonful of flour very smoothly mixed with two ounces of butter4 ,give the whole a boil after the thickening is added1 pour a portion of the sauce over the fish 7it is served principally with salmon and trout71 and send the remainder very hot to table in a tureen4 ,lean of ham1 #c oz42 #a_/b small carrot2 #d to #f cloves2 mace1 #a large blade2 thyme and parsley1 #c or #d small sprigs of each2 butter1 #a to #a-a_/b oz43 #ej to #fj minutes4 ,veal gravy1 #a pint3 #c_/d to #a hour4 ,sherry or ,madeira1 #a-a_/b glassful2 lemon-juice1 #b tablespoonsful2 seasoning of cayenne and salt2 flour1 #a tablespoonful2 butter1 #b oz43 #a minute4 ,obs4--,a teaspoonful or more of essence of anchovies is usually added to the sauce1 though it is scarcely required4 ,,sauce ,,robert4 ,cut four or five large onions into small dice1 and brown them in a stewpan1 with three ounces of butter and a dessertspoonful of flour4 ,when of a deep yellow brown1 pour to them half a pint of beef or of veal gravy1 and let them simmer for fifteen minutes2 skim the sauce1 add a seasoning of salt and pepper1 and at the moment of serving1 mix a dessertspoonful of made mustard with it4 ,large onions1 #d or #e2 butter1 #c oz42 flour1 dessertspoonful2 #aj to #ae minutes4 ,gravy1 #a_/b pint3 #ae minutes4 ,mustard1 dessertspoonful4 ,,sauce ,,piquante4 ,brown lightly in an ounce and a half of butter a tablespoonful of minced eschalots or three of onions2 add a teaspoonful of flour when they are partially done2 pour to them half a pint of gravy or of good broth1 and when it boils add three chilies1 a bay-leaf1 and a very small bunch of thyme4 ,let these simmer for twenty minutes2 take out the thyme and bay-leaf1 add a high seasoning of black pepper1 and half a wineglassful of the best vinegar4 ,a quarter of a teaspoonful of cayenne may be substituted for the chilies4 ,eschalots1 #a tablespoonful1 or three of onions2 flour1 #a teaspoonful2 butter1 #a-a_/b oz43 #aj to #ae minutes4 ,gravy or broth1 #a_/b pint2 chilies1 #c2 bay-leaf2 thyme1 small bunch3 #bj minutes4 ,pepper1 plenty2 vinegar1 #a_/b wineglassful4 ,,excellent ,,horseradish ,,sauce4 7,to serve hot or cold with roast beef47 ,wash and wipe a stick of young horseradish1 scrape off the outer skin1 grate it as small as possible on a fine grater1 then with two ounces 7or a couple of large tablespoonsful7 of it mix a small teaspoonful of salt and four tablespoonsful of good cream2 stir in briskly1 and by degrees1 three dessertspoonsful of vinegar1 one of which should be chili vinegar when the horseradish is mild4 ,to heat the sauce1 put it into a small and delicately clean saucepan1 hold it over1 but do not place it upon the fire1 and stir it without intermission until it is near the point of simmering2 but do not allow it to boil1 or it will curdle instantly4 ,horseradish pulp1 #b oz4 7or #b large tablespoonsful72 salt1 #a teaspoonful2 good cream1 #d tablespoonsful2 vinegar1 #c dessertspoonsful 7of which one should be chili when the root is mild74 ,obs4--,common ,english salad-mixture is often added to the grated horseradish when the sauce is to be served cold4 ,,hot ,,horseradish ,,sauce4 7,to serve with boiled or stewed meat or fish47 ,mix three ounces of young tender grated horseradish with half a pint of good brown gravy1 and let it stand by the side of the fire until it is on the point of boiling2 add salt if required1 a teaspoonful of made mustard1 and a dessertspoonful of garlic or of eschalot vinegar2 or the same quantity of chili vinegar1 or twice as much common vinegar4 ,some cooks stew the horseradish in vinegar for ten minutes1 and1 after having drained it from this1 mix it with nearly half a pint of thick melted butter4 ,horseradish1 grated1 #c oz42 brown gravy1 #a_/b pint2 made mustard1 #a teaspoonful2 eschalot or garlic vinegar1 #a dessertspoonful 7or chili vinegar1 the same quantity1 or common vinegar twice as much74 ,,christopher ,,north',s ,,own ,,sauce ,,for ,,many ,,meats4 ,throw into a small basin a heaped saltspoonful of good cayenne pepper1 in very fine powder1 and half the quantity of salt2#eg add a small dessertspoonful of well-refined1 pounded1 and sifted sugar2 mix these thoroughly2 then pour in a tablespoonful of the strained juice of a fresh lemon1 two of ,harvey's sauce1 a teaspoonful of the very best mushroom catsup 7or of cavice71 and a small wineglassful of port wine4 ,heat the sauce by placing the basin in a saucepan of boiling water1 or turn it into a jar1 and place this in the water4 ,serve it directly it is ready with geese or ducks1 tame or wild2 roast pork1 venison1 fawn1 a grilled blade-bone1 or any other broil4 ,a slight flavour of garlic or eschalot vinegar may be given to it at pleasure4 ,some persons eat it with fish4 ,it is good cold2 and1 if bottled directly it is made1 may be stored for several days4 ,it is the better for being mixed some hours before it is served4 ,the proportion of cayenne may be doubled when a very pungent sauce is desired4 ,footnote #eg3 ,characteristically1 the salt of this sauce ought1 perhaps1 to prevail more strongly over the sugar1 but it will be found for most tastes sufficiently piquant as it is4 ,good cayenne pepper in fine powder1 #a heaped saltspoonful2 salt1 half as much2 pounded sugar1 #a small dessertspoonful2 strained lemon-juice1 #a tablespoonful2 ,harvey's sauce1 #b tablespoonsful2 best mushroom catsup 7or cavice71 #a teaspoonful2 port wine1 #c tablespoonsful1 or small wineglassful4 7,little eschalot1 or garlic vinegar at pleasure47 ,obs4--,this sauce is exceedingly good mixed with the brown gravy of a hash or stew1 or with that which is served with game or other dishes4 ,,gooseberry ,,sauce ,,for ,,mackerel4 ,cut the stalks and tops from half to a whole pint of quite young gooseberries1 wash them well1 just cover them with cold water1 and boil them very gently indeed1 until they are tender2 drain and mix them with a small quantity of melted butter1 made with rather less flour than usual4 ,some eaters prefer the mashed gooseberries without any addition2 others like that of a little ginger4 ,the best way of making this sauce is to turn the gooseberries into a hair-sieve to drain1 then to press them through it with a wooden spoon1 and to stir them in a clean stewpan or saucepan over the fire with from half to a whole teaspoonful of sugar1 just to soften their extreme acidity1 and a bit of fresh butter about the size of a walnut4 ,when the fruit is not passed through the sieve it is an improvement to seed it4 ,,common ,,sorrel ,,sauce4 ,strip from the stalks and the large fibres1 from one to a couple of quarts of freshly-gathered sorrel2 wash it very clean1 and put it into a well-tinned stewpan or saucepan 7or into an enamelled one1 which would be far better71 without any water2 add to it a small slice of good butter1 some pepper and salt1 and stew it gently1 keeping it well stirred until it is exceedingly tender1 that it may not burn2 then drain it on a sieve1 or press the liquid well from it2 chop it as fine as possible1 and boil it again for a few minutes with a spoonful or two of gravy1 or the same quantity of cream or milk1 mixed with a half-teaspoonful of flour1 or with only a fresh slice of good butter4 ,the beaten yolk of an egg or two stirred in just as the sorrel is taken from the fire will soften the sauce greatly1 and a saltspoonful of pounded sugar will also be an improvement4 ,,asparagus ,,sauce1 ,,for ,,lamb ,,cutlets4 ,green cut the tender points of some young asparagus into half-inch lengths1 or into the size of peas only2 wash them well1 then drain and throw them into plenty of boiling salt and water4 ,when they are quite tender1 which may be in from ten to fifteen minutes1 turn them into a hot strainer and drain the water thoroughly from them2 put them1 at the instant of serving1 into half a pint of thickened veal gravy 7see sauce tourne1 page #ajf71 mixed with the yolks of a couple of eggs1 and well seasoned with salt and cayenne1 or white pepper1 or into an equal quantity of good melted butter3 add to this last a squeeze of lemon-juice4 ,the asparagus will become yellow if reboiled1 or if left long in the sauce before it is served4 ,asparagus points1 #a_/b pint3 boiled #aj to #ae minutes1 longer if not quite tender4 ,thickened veal gravy1 #a_/b pint2 yolks of eggs1 #b4 ,or3 good melted butter1 #a_/b pint2 lemon-juice1 small dessertspoonful1 seasoning of salt and white pepper4 ,,caper ,,sauce4 ,stir into the third of a pint of good melted butter from three to four dessertspoonsful of capers2 add a little of the vinegar1 and dish the sauce as soon as it boils4 ,keep it stirred after the berries are added3 part of them may be minced and a little chill vinegar substituted for their own4 ,pickled nasturtiums make a very good sauce1 and their flavour is sometimes preferred to that of the capers4 ,for a large joint1 increase the quantity of butter to half a pint4 ,melted butter1 third of pint2 capers1 #c to #d dessertspoonsful4 ,,brown ,,caper ,,sauce4 ,thicken half a pint of good veal or beef gravy as directed for sauce tourne1 and add to it two tablespoonsful of capers1 and a dessertspoonful of the pickle liquor1 or of chili vinegar1 with some cayenne if the former be used1 and a proper seasoning of salt4 ,thickened veal1 or beef gravy1 #a_/b pint2 capers1 #b tablespoonsful2 caper liquor or chili vinegar1 #a dessertspoonful4 ,,caper ,,sauce ,,for ,,fish4 ,to nearly half a pint of very rich melted butter add six spoonsful of strong veal gravy or jelly1 a tablespoonful of essence of anchovies1 and some chili vinegar or cayenne1 and from two to three tablespoonsful of capers4 ,when there is no gravy at hand substitute a half wineglassful of mushroom catsup1 or of ,harvey's sauce2 though these deepen the colour more than is desirable4 ,,common ,,cucumber ,,sauce4 ,pare1 slice1 dust slightly with pepper and with flour1 two or three young cucumbers1 and fry them a fine brown in a little butter1 or dissolve an ounce and a half in a small stewpan or iron saucepan1 and shake them in it over a brisk fire from twelve to fifteen minutes2 pour to them by degrees nearly half a pint of strong beef broth1 or of brown gravy2 add salt1 and more pepper if required2 stew the whole for five minutes1 and send the sauce very hot to table4 ,a minced onion may be browned with the cucumbers when it is liked1 and a spoonful of vinegar added to them before they are served4 ,cucumbers1 #b or #c2 butter1 #a-a_/b oz42 broth or gravy1 nearly #a_/b pint2 salt1 pepper4 ,,another ,,common ,,sauce ,,of ,,cucumbers4 ,cucumbers which have the fewest seeds are best for this sauce4 ,pare and slice two or three1 should they be small1 and put them into a saucepan1 in which two ounces1 or rather more1 of butter have been dissolved1 and are beginning to boil2 place them high over the fire1 that they may stew as softly as possible1 without taking colour1 for three-quarters of an hour1 or longer should they require it2 add to them a good seasoning of white pepper and some salt1 when they are half done2 and just before they are served stir to them half a teaspoonful of flour1 mixed with a morsel of butter2 strew in some minced parsley1 give it a boil1 and finish with a spoonful of good vinegar4 ,,white ,,cucumber ,,sauce4 ,quarter some young quickly-grown cucumbers1 without many seeds in them2 empty them of these1 and take off the rinds4 ,cut them into inch lengths1 and boil them from fifteen to eighteen minutes in salt and water2 press the water from them with the back of a spoon1 and work them through a sieve2 mix them with a few spoonsful of bchamel1 or thick white sauce2 do not let them boil again1 but serve them very hot4 ,a sauce of better flavour is made by boiling the cucumbers in veal gravy well seasoned1 and stirring in the beaten yolks of two or three eggs1 and a little chili vinegar or lemon-juice1 at the instant of serving4 ,another also of cucumbers sliced1 and stewed in butter1 but without being at all browned1 and then boiled in pale veal gravy1 which must be thickened with rich cream1 is excellent4 ,a morsel of sugar improves this sauce4 ,cucumbers1 #c3 #ae to #ah minutes4 ,white sauce1 #a_/d pint4 ,,white ,,mushroom ,,sauce4 ,cut off the stems closely from half a pint of small button mushrooms2 clean them with a little salt and a bit of flannel1 and throw them into cold water1 slightly salted1 as they are done2 drain them well1 or dry them in a soft cloth1 and throw them into half a pint of boiling bchamel 7see page #ajh71 or of white sauce made with very fresh milk1 or thin cream1 thickened with a tablespoonful of flour and two ounces of butter4 ,simmer the mushrooms from ten to twenty minutes1 or until they are quite tender1 and dish the sauce1 which should be properly seasoned with salt1 mace1 and cayenne4 ,mushrooms1 #a_/b pint2 white sauce1 #a_/b pint2 seasoning of salt1 mace1 and cayenne3 #aj minutes4 ,,another ,,mushroom ,,sauce4 ,prepare from half to a whole pint of very small mushroom-buttons with great nicety1 and throw them into an equal quantity of sauce tourne2 when they are tender add a few spoonsful of rich cream1 give the whole a boil1 and serve it4 ,either of these sauces may be sent to table with boiled poultry1 breast of veal1 or veal cutlets3 the sauce tourne should be thickened rather more than usual when it is to be used in this receipt4 ,mushrooms and sauce tourne each1 #a_/b to whole pint3 stewed till tender4 ,cream1 #d to #h tablespoonsful4 ,,brown ,,mushroom ,,sauce4 ,very small flaps1 peeled and freed entirely from the fur1 will answer for this sauce4 ,leave them whole or quarter them1 and stew them tender in some rich brown gravy2 give a full seasoning of mace and cayenne1 add thickening and salt if needed1 and a tablespoonful of good mushroom catsup4 ,,common ,,tomata ,,sauce4 ,tomatas are so juicy when ripe that they require little or no liquid to reduce them to a proper consistence for sauce2 and they vary so exceedingly in size and quality that it is difficult to give precise directions for the exact quantity which in their unripe state is needed for them4 ,take off the stalks1 halve the tomatas1 and gently squeeze out the seeds and watery pulp2 then stew them softly with a few spoonsful of gravy or of strong broth until they are quite melted4 ,press the whole through a hair-sieve1 and heat it afresh with a little additional gravy should it be too thick1 and some cayenne1 and salt4 ,serve it very hot4 ,fine ripe tomatas1 #f or #h2 gravy or strong broth1 #d tablespoonsful3 #a_/b to #c_/d hour1 or longer if needed4 ,salt and cayenne sufficient to season the sauce1 and two or three spoonsful more of gravy if required4 ,obs4--,for a large tureen of this sauce1 increase the proportions2 and should it be at first too liquid1 reduce it by quick boiling4 ,when neither gravy nor broth is at hand1 the tomatas may be stewed perfectly tender1 but very gently1 in a couple of ounces of butter1 with some cayenne and salt only1 or with the addition of a very little finely minced onion2 then rubbed through a sieve1 and heated1 and served without any addition1 or with only that of a teaspoonful of chili vinegar2 or1 when the colour is not a principal consideration1 with a few spoonsful of rich cream1 smoothly mixed with a little flour to prevent its curdling4 ,the sauce must be stirred without ceasing should the last be added1 and boiled for four or five minutes4 ,a ,,finer ,,tomata ,,sauce4 ,stew very gently a dozen fine red tomatas1 prepared as for the preceding receipt1 with two or three sliced eschalots1 four or five chilies or a capsicum or two 7or in lieu of either1 with a quarter of a teaspoonful of cayenne pepper71 a few small dice of lean ham1 and half a cupful of rich gravy4 ,stir these often1 and when the tomatas are reduced quite to a smooth pulp1 rub them through a sieve2 put them into a clean saucepan1 with a few spoonsful more of rich gravy1 or ,espagnole1 add salt if needed1 boil the sauce stirring it well for ten minutes1 and serve it very hot4 ,when the gravy is exceedingly good and highly flavoured1 the ham may be omitted3 a dozen small mushrooms nicely cleaned may also be sliced and stewed with the tomatas1 instead of the eschalots1 when their flavour is preferred1 or they may be added with them4 ,the exact proportion of liquid used is immaterial1 for should the sauce be too thin it may be reduced by rapid boiling1 and diluted with more gravy if too thick4 ,,boiled ,,apple ,,sauce4 ,apples of a fine cooking sort require but a very small portion of liquid to boil down well and smoothly for sauce1 if placed over a gentle fire in a close-shutting saucepan1 and simmered as softly as possible until they are well broken2 and their flavour is injured by the common mode of adding so much to them1 that the greater part must be drained off again before they are sent to table4 ,pare the fruit quickly1 quarter it1 and be careful entirely to remove the cores2 put one tablespoonful of water into a saucepan before the apples are thrown in1 and proceed1 as we have directed1 to simmer them until they are nearly ready to serve3 finish the sauce by the receipt which follows4 ,apples1 #a_/b lb42 water1 #a tablespoonful2 stewed very softly3 #cj to #fj minutes4 ,obs4--,these proportions are sufficient only for a small tureen of the sauce1 and should be doubled for a large one4 ,for this1 and all other preparations1 apples will be whiter if just dipped into fresh water the instant before they are put into the stewpan4 ,they should be quickly lifted from it1 and will stew down easily to sauce with only the moisture which hangs about them4 ,they should be watched and often gently stirred1 that they may be equally done4 ,,baked ,,apple ,,sauce4 7,good47 ,put a tablespoonful of water into a quart basin1 and fill it with good boiling apples1 pared1 quartered1 and carefully cored3 put a plate over1 and set them into a moderate oven for about an hour1 or until they are reduced quite to a pulp2 beat them smooth with a clean wooden spoon1 adding to them a little sugar and a morsel of fresh butter1 when these are liked1 though they will scarcely be required4 ,the sauce made thus is far superior to that which is boiled4 ,when no other oven is at hand1 a ,dutch or an ,american one would probably answer for it2 but we cannot assert this on our own experience4 ,good boiling apples1 #a quart3 baked #a hour 7more or less according to the quality of the fruit1 and temperature of the oven72 sugar1 #a oz42 butter1 #a_/b oz4 ,,brown ,,apple ,,sauce4 ,stew gently down to a thick and perfectly smooth marmalade1 a pound of pearmains1 or of any other well-flavoured boiling apples1 in about the third of a pint of rich brown gravy3 season the sauce rather highly with black pepper or cayenne1 and serve it very hot4 ,curry sauce will make an excellent substitute for the gravy when a very piquant accompaniment is wanted for pork or other rich meat4 ,apples pared and cored1 #a lb42 good brown gravy1 third of pint #c_/d to #a-a_/d hour4 ,pepper or cayenne as needed4 ,,white ,,onion ,,sauce4 ,strip the skin from some large white onions1 and after having taken off the tops and roots cut them in two1 throw them into cold water as they are done1 cover them plentifully with more water1 and boil them very tender2 lift them out1 drain1 and then press the water thoroughly from them2 chop them small1 rub them through a sieve or strainer1 put them into a little rich melted butter mixed with a spoonful or two of cream or milk1 and a seasoning of salt1 give the sauce a boil1 and serve it very hot4 ,portugal onions are superior to any others1 both for this and for most other purposes of cookery4 ,for the finest kind of onion sauce1 see ,soubise1 page #abf1 which follows4 ,,brown ,,onion ,,sauce4 ,cut off both ends of the onions1 and slice them into a saucepan in which two ounces of butter have been dissolved2 keep them stewing gently over a clear fire until they are lightly coloured2 then pour to them half a pint of brown gravy1 and when they have boiled until they are perfectly tender1 work the sauce altogether through a strainer1 season it with a little cayenne1 and serve it very hot4 ,,another ,,brown ,,onion ,,sauce4 ,mince the onions1 stew them in butter until they are well coloured1 stir in a dessertspoonful of flour1 shake the stewpan over the fire for three or four minutes1 pour in only as much broth or gravy as will leave the sauce tolerably thick1 season1 and serve it4 ,,soubise4 7,english ,receipt47 ,skin1 slice1 and mince quickly two pounds' weight of the white part only of some fine mild onions1 and stew them in from two to three ounces of good butter over a very gentle fire until they are reduced to a pulp1 then pour to them three-quarters of a pint of rich veal gravy2 add a seasoning of salt and cayenne1 if needed2 skim off the fat entirely1 press the sauce through a sieve1 heat it in a clean stewpan1 mix it with a quarter of a pint of rich boiling cream1 and serve it directly4 ,onions1 #b lbs42 butter1 #b to #c oz43 #cj minutes to #a hour4 ,veal gravy1 #c_/d pint2 salt1 cayenne3 #e minutes4 ,cream1 #a_/d pint4 ,,soubise4 7,french ,receipt47 ,peel some fine white onions1 and trim away all tough and discoloured parts2 mince them small1 and throw them into plenty of boiling water2 when they have boiled quickly for five minutes drain them well in a sieve1 then stew them very softly indeed in an ounce or two of fresh butter until they are dry and perfectly tender2 stir to them as much bchamel as will bring them to the consistence of very thick pea-soup1 pass the whole through a strainer1 pressing the onion strongly that none may remain behind1 and heat the sauce afresh1 without allowing it to boil4 ,a small half-teaspoonful of pounded sugar is sometimes added to this soubise4 ,white part of onions1 #b lbs43 blanched #e minutes4 ,butter1 #b oz43 #cj to #ej minutes4 ,bchamel1 #c_/d to #a pint1 or more4 ,obs4--,these sauces are served more frequently with lamb or mutton cutlets than with any other dishes2 but they would probably find many approvers if sent to table with roast mutton1 or boiled veal4 ,half the quantity given above will be sufficient for a moderate-sized dish4 ,,mild ,,ragout ,,of ,,garlic1 ,,or1 ,l',,ail ,,la ,,bordelaise4 ,divide some fine cloves of garlic1 strip off the skin1 and when all are ready throw them into plenty of boiling water slightly salted2 in five minutes drain this from them1 and pour in as much more1 which should also be quite boiling2 continue to change it every five or six minutes until the garlic is quite tender3 throw in a moderate proportion of salt the last time to give it the proper flavour4 ,drain it thoroughly1 and serve it in the dish with roast mutton1 or put it into good brown gravy or white sauce for table4 ,by changing very frequently the water in which it is boiled1 the root will be deprived of its naturally pungent flavour and smell1 and rendered extremely mild3 when it is not wished to be quite so much so1 change the water every ten minutes only4 ,garlic1 #a pint3 #ae to #be minutes1 or more4 ,water to be changed every #e or #f minutes2 or every #aj minutes when not wished so very mild4 ,gravy or sauce1 #a pint4 ,,mild ,,eschalot ,,sauce4 ,prepare and boil from half to a whole pint of eschalots by the preceding receipt2 unless very large1 they will be tender in about fifteen minutes1 sometimes in less1 in which case the water must be poured from them shortly after it has been changed for the second time4 ,when grown in a suitable soil1 and cultivated with care1 the eschalots are sometimes treble the size that they are under other circumstances2 and this difference must be allowed for in boiling them4 ,drain them well1 and mix them with white sauce or gravy1 or with good melted butter1 and serve them very hot4 ,a ,,fine ,,sauce1 ,,or ,,pur,e ,,of ,,vegetable ,,marrow4 ,pare one or two half-grown marrows and cut out all the seeds2 take a pound of the vegetable1 and slice it1 with one ounce of mild onion1 into a pint of strong veal broth or of pale gravy2 stew them very softly for nearly or quite an hour2 add salt and cayenne1 or white pepper1 when they are nearly done2 press the whole through a fine and delicately clean hair-sieve2 heat it afresh1 and stir to it when it boils about the third of a pint of rich cream4 ,serve it with boiled chickens1 stewed or boiled veal1 lamb cutlets1 or any other delicate meat4 ,when to be served as a pure1 an additional half-pound of the vegetable must be used2 and it should be dished with small fried sippets round it4 ,for a maigre dish1 stew the marrow and onion quite tender in butter1 and dilute them with half boiling water and half cream4 ,vegetable marrow1 #a lb42 mild onion1 #a oz42 strong broth or pale gravy1 #a pint3 nearly or quite #a hour4 ,pepper or cayenne1 and salt as needed2 good cream1 from #a_/d to #c_/d of pint4 ,for pure1 #a_/b lb4 more of marrow4 ,,excellent ,,turnip1 ,,or ,,artichoke ,,sauce ,,for ,,boiled ,,meat4 ,pare1 slice1 and boil quite tender1 some finely-grained mild turnips1 press the water from them thoroughly1 and pass them through a sieve4 ,dissolve a slice of butter in a clean saucepan1 and stir to it a large teaspoonful of flour1 or mix them smoothly together before they are put in1 and shake the saucepan round until they boil3 pour to them very gradually nearly a pint of thin cream 7or of good milk mixed with a portion of cream71 add the turnips with a half-teaspoonful or more of salt1 and when the whole is well mixed and very hot1 pour it over boiled mutton1 veal1 lamb1 or poultry4 ,there should be sufficient of the sauce to cover the meat entirely2#eh and when properly made it improves greatly the appearance of a joint4 ,a little cayenne tied in a muslin may be boiled in the milk before it is mixed with the turnips4 ,jerusalem artichokes make a more delicate sauce of this kind even than turnips2 the weight of both vegetables must be taken after they are pared4 ,footnote #eh3 ,the objection to masking a joint with this or any other sauce is1 that it speedily becomes cold when spread over its surface3 a portion of it at least should be served very hot in a tureen4 ,pared turnips or artichokes1 #a lb42 fresh butter1 #a-a_/b oz42 flour1 #a large teaspoonful 7twice as much if all milk be used72 salt1 #a_/b teaspoonful or more2 cream1 or cream and milk mixed1 from #c_/d to #a pint4 ,,olive ,,sauce4 ,remove the stones from some fine ,french or ,italian olives by paring the fruit close to them1 round and round in the form of a corkscrew3 they will then resume their original shape when done4 ,weigh six ounces thus prepared1 throw them into boiling water1 let them blanch for five minutes2 then drain1 and throw them into cold water1 and leave them in it from half an hour to an hour1 proportioning the time to their saltness2 drain them well1 and stew them gently from fifteen to twenty-five minutes in a pint of very rich brown gravy or ,espagnole 7see ,chapter ,,iv472 add the juice of half a lemon1 and serve the sauce very hot4 ,half this quantity will be sufficient for a small party4 ,olives1 stoned1 #f oz42 rich gravy1 #a pint3 #ae to #be minutes4 ,juice1 #a_/b lemon4 ,obs4--,in ,france this sauce is served very commonly with ducks1 and sometimes with beef-steaks1 and with stewed fowl4 ,,celery ,,sauce4 ,slice the white part of from three to five heads of young tender celery2 peel it if not very young1 and boil it in salt and water for twenty minutes4 ,if for white sauce put the celery1 after it has been well drained1 into half a pint of veal broth or gravy1 and let it stew until it is quite soft2 then add an ounce and a half of butter1 mixed with a dessertspoonful of flour1 and a quarter of a pint of thick cream or the yolks of three eggs4 ,the ,french1 after boiling the celery1 which they cut very small1 for about twenty minutes1 drain and chop it2 then put it with a slice of butter into a stewpan1 and season it with pepper1 salt1 and nutmeg2 they keep these stirred over the fire for two or three minutes1 and then dredge in a dessertspoonful of flour3 when this has lost its raw taste1 they pour in a sufficient quantity of white gravy to moisten the celery1 and to allow for twenty minutes' longer boiling4 ,a very good common celery sauce is made by simply stewing the celery cut into inch-lengths in butter1 until it begins to be tender2 and then adding a spoonful of flour1 which must be allowed to brown a little1 and half a pint of good broth or beef gravy1 with a seasoning of pepper or cayenne4 ,celery1 #c to #e heads3 #bj minutes4 ,veal broth1 or gravy1 #a_/b pint2 #bj to #dj minutes4 ,butter1 #a-a_/b oz42 flour1 #a dessertspoonful2 cream1 #a_/d pint1 or three yolks of eggs4 ,,white ,,chestnut ,,sauce4 ,strip the outer rind from six ounces of sound sweet chestnuts1 then throw them into boiling water1 and let them simmer for two or three minutes1 when the second skin will easily peel off4 ,add to them three quarters of a pint of good cold veal gravy1 and a few strips of lemon rind1 and let them stew gently for an hour and a quarter4 ,press them1 with the gravy1 through a hair-sieve reversed and placed over a deep dish or pan1 as they are much more easily rubbed through thus than in the usual way3 a wooden spoon should be used in preference to any other for the process4 ,add a little cayenne and mace1 some salt if needed1 and about six tablespoonsful of rich cream4 ,keep the sauce stirred until it boils1 and serve it immediately4 ,chestnuts without their rinds1 #f oz42 veal gravy1 #a pint2 rind of #a_/b lemon3 #a-a_/d hour4 ,salt2 spice2 cream1 #f tablespoonsful4 ,obs4--,this sauce may be served with turkey1 with fowls1 or with stewed veal cutlets4 ,,brown ,,chestnut ,,sauce4 ,substitute rich brown gravy for the veal stock1 omit the lemon-rind and cream1 heighten the seasonings1 and mix the chestnuts with a few spoonsful of ,espagnole or highly flavoured gravy1 after they have been passed through the sieve4 ,,parsley-,,green1 ,,for ,,colouring ,,sauces4 ,gather a quantity of young parsley1 strip it from the stalks1 wash it very clean1 shake it as dry as possible in a cloth1 pound it in a mortar1 press all the juice closely from it through a hair-sieve reversed1 and put it into a clean jar2 set it into a pan of boiling water1 and in about three minutes1 if gently simmered1 the juice will be poached sufficiently2 lay it then upon a clean sieve to drain1 and it will be ready for use4 ,spinach-green1 for which particular directions will be found at the commencement of ,chapter ,,xxiv41 is prepared in the same manner4 ,the juice of various herbs pounded together may be pressed from them through a sieve and added to cold sauces4 ,,to ,,crisp ,,parsley4 ,wash some branches of young parsley well1 drain them from the water1 and swing them in a clean cloth until they are quite dry2 place them on a sheet of writing paper in a ,dutch oven1 before a brisk fire1 and keep them frequently turned until they are quite crisp4 ,they will become so in from six to eight minutes4 ,,fried ,,parsley4 ,when the parsley has been prepared as for crisping1 and is quite dry1 throw it into plenty of lard or butter1 which is on the point of boiling2 take it up with a skimmer the instant it is crisp1 and drain it on a cloth spread upon a sieve reversed1 and placed before the fire4 ,,mild ,,mustard4 ,mustard for instant use should be mixed with milk1 to which a spoonful or two of very thin cream may be added4 ,,mustard ,,the ,,common ,,way4 ,the great art of mixing mustard is to have it perfectly smooth1 and of a proper consistency4 ,the liquid with which it is moistened should be added to it in small quantities1 and the mustard should be well rubbed1 and beaten with a spoon4 ,mix half a teaspoonful of salt with two ounces of the flour of mustard1 and stir to them by degrees sufficient boiling water to reduce it to the appearance of a thick batter3 do not put it into the mustard-glass until it is cold4 ,some persons like a half-teaspoonful of sugar in the finest powder mixed with it4 ,it ought to be sufficiently diluted always to drop easily from the spoon2 and to bring it to this state more than a quarter of a pint1 and less than half a pint of liquid will be needed for four ounces of the best ,durham mustard4 ,for ,tartar mustard see ,chapter ,,vii4 ,,french ,,batter4 7,for frying vegetables1 and for apple1 peach1 or orange fritters47 ,cut a couple of ounces of good butter into small bits1 pour on it less than a quarter of a pint of boiling water1 and when it is dissolved add three quarters of a pint of cold water1 so that the whole shall not be quite milk warm2 mix it then by degrees and very smoothly with twelve ounces of fine dry flour and a small pinch of salt if the batter be for fruit fritters1 but with more if for meat or vegetables4 ,just before it is used1 stir into it the whites of two eggs beaten to a solid froth2 but previously to this1 add a little water should it appear too thick1 as some flour requires more liquid than other to bring it to the proper consistence2 this is an exceedingly light crisp batter1 excellent for the purposes for which it is named4 ,butter1 #b oz42 water1 from #c_/d to nearly #a pint2 little salt2 flour1 #c_/d lb42 whites of #b eggs1 beaten to snow4 ,,to ,,prepare ,,bread ,,for ,,frying ,,fish4 ,cut thick slices from the middle of a loaf of light stale bread1 pare the crust entirely from them1 and dry them gradually in a cool oven until they are crisp quite through2 let them become cold1 then roll or beat them into fine crumbs1 and keep them in a dry place for use4 ,to strew over hams or cheeks of bacon1 the bread should be left all night in the oven1 which should be sufficiently heated to brown1 as well as to harden it3 it ought indeed to be entirely converted into equally-coloured crust4 ,it may be sifted through a dredging-box on to the hams after it has been reduced almost to powder4 ,,browned ,,flour ,,for ,,thickening ,,soups ,,and ,,gravies4 ,spread it on a tin or dish and colour it1 without burning1 in a gentle oven or before the fire in a ,dutch or ,american oven3 turn it often1 or the edges will be too much browned before the middle is enough so4 ,this1 blended with butter1 makes a convenient thickening for soups or gravies of which it is desirable to deepen the colour2 and it requires less time and attention than the ,french roux of page #aj4 ,,fried ,,bread-,,crumbs4 ,grate lightly into very fine crumbs four ounces of stale bread1 and shake them through a cullender2#ei without rubbing or touching them with the hands4 ,dissolve two ounces of fresh butter in a frying-pan1 throw in the crumbs1 and stir them constantly over a moderate fire1 until they are all of a clear golden colour2 lift them out with a skimmer1 spread them on a soft cloth1 or upon white blotting paper1 laid upon a sieve reversed1 and dry them before the fire4 ,they may be more delicately prepared by browning them in a gentle oven without the addition of butter4 ,footnote #ei3 ,this is not necessary when they are lightly and finely grated of uniform size4 ,bread1 #d oz42 butter1 #b oz4 ,,fried ,,bread ,,for ,,garnishing4 ,cut the crumb of a stale loaf in slices a quarter of an inch thick2 form them into diamonds or half diamonds1 or shape them with a paste-cutter in any another way2 fry them in fresh butter1 some of a very pale brown and others a deeper colour2 dry them well1 and place them alternately round the dish that is to be garnished4 ,they may be made to adhere to the edge of the dish when they are required for ornament only1 by means of a little flour and white of egg brushed over the side which is placed on it3 this must be allowed to dry before they are served4 ,for ,,sweet-,,pudding ,,sauces1 see ,chapter ,,xx4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,cold ,sauces1 ,salads1 etc4 ,,superior ,,mint-,,sauce4 7,to serve with lamb47 ,,the mint for this sauce should be fresh and young1 for when old it is tough and indigestible4 ,strip the leaves from the stems1 wash them with great nicety1 and drain them on a sieve1 or dry them in a cloth2 chop them very fine1 put them into a sauce-tureen1 and to three heaped tablespoonsful of the mint add two of pounded sugar2 let them remain a short time well mixed together1 then pour to them gradually six tablespoonsful of good vinegar4 ,the sauce thus made is excellent1 and far more wholesome than when a larger proportion of vinegar and a smaller one of sugar is used for it2 but1 after the first trial1 the proportions can easily be adapted to the taste of the eaters4 ,,common ,,mint-,,sauce4 ,two tablespoonsful of mint1 one large tablespoonful of pale brown sugar1 well mixed together1 and a quarter of a pint of vinegar1 stirred until the sugar is entirely dissolved4 ,,strained ,,mint ,,sauce4 ,persons with whom the mint in substance disagrees can have the flavour of the herb without it1 by mixing the ingredients of either of the preceding receipts1 and straining the sauce after it has stood for two or three hours2 the mint should be well pressed when this is done4 ,the flavour will be the more readily extracted if the mint and sugar are well mixed1 and left for a time before the vinegar is added4 ,,fine ,,horseradish ,,sauce4 7,to serve with cold1 roast1 stewed1 or boiled beef47 ,the root for this excellent sauce should be young and tender1 and grated down on a very fine bright grater1 quite to a pulp1 after it has been washed1 wiped1 and scraped free from the outer skin4 ,we have given the proportions for it in the preceding chapter1 but repeat them here4 ,horseradish1 #b heaped tablespoonsful2 salt1 #a moderate teaspoonful2 rich cream1 #d tablespoonsful2 good vinegar1 #c dessertspoonsful 7of which one may be chili vinegar when the root is mild47 ,when the other ingredients are smoothly mingled1 the vinegar must be stirred briskly to them in very small portions4 ,a few drops of garlic or shalot vinegar can be added to them when it is liked4 ,,cold ,,ma,,tre ,d',h,,tel1 ,,or ,,steward',s ,,sauce4 ,work well together until they are perfectly blended1 two or three ounces of good butter1 some pepper1 salt1 minced parsley1 and the strained juice of a sound lemon of moderate size4 ,the sauce thus prepared is often put into broiled fish2 and laid in the dish under broiled kidneys1 beef-steaks1 and other meat4 ,for #b oz4 butter1 #a heaped teaspoonful young minced parsley2 juice of #a lemon2 #a small saltspoonful salt2 seasoning of white pepper4 ,obs4--,the proportion of parsley may be doubled when a larger quantity is liked3 a little fine cayenne would often be preferred to the pepper4 ,,cold ,,dutch ,,or ,,american ,,sauce1 ,,for ,,salads ,,of ,,dressed ,,vegetables1 ,,salt ,,fish1 ,,or ,,hard ,,eggs4 ,put into a saucepan three ounces of good butter very smoothly blended with a quite small teaspoonful of flour1 and add to them a large wineglassful of cold water1 half as much sharp vinegar 7or very fresh1 strained1 lemon-juice7 a saltspoonful of salt1 and half as much cayenne in fine powder4 ,keep these shaken briskly round1 or stirred over a clear fire1 until they form a smooth sauce and boil rapidly2 then stir them very quickly to the beaten yolks of four fresh eggs1 which will immediately give the sauce the consistence of custard2 pour it hot over the salad1 and place it on ice1 or in a very cool larder until it is quite cold3 if properly made1 it will be very thick and smooth1 and slightly set1 as if it contained a small portion of isinglass4 ,a dessertspoonful of parsley1--or of tarragon1--can be mingled with it at pleasure1 or any flavour given to it with store-sauces which is liked4 ,it converts flakes of salt-fish1 sliced potatoes 7new or old71 and hard eggs1 into excellent salads4 ,,english ,,sauce ,,for ,,salad1 ,,cold ,,meat1 ,,or ,,cold ,,fish4 ,the first essential for a smooth1 well-made ,english salad dressing is to have the yolks of the eggs used for it sufficiently hard to be reduced easily to a perfect paste4 ,they should be boiled at least fifteen minutes1 and should have become quite cold before they are taken from the shells2 they should also be well covered with water when they are cooked1 or some parts of them will be tough1 and will spoil the appearance of the sauce by rendering it lumpy1 unless they be worked through a sieve1 a process which is always better avoided if possible4 ,to a couple of yolks broken up and mashed to a paste with the back of a wooden spoon1 add a small saltspoonful of salt1 a large one of pounded sugar1 a few grains of fine cayenne1 and a teaspoonful of cold water2 mix these well1 and stir to them by degrees a quarter of a pint of sweet cream2 throw in next1 stirring the sauce briskly1 a tablespoonful of strong chili vinegar1 and add as much common or ,french vinegar as will acidulate the mixture agreeably4 ,a tablespoonful of either will be sufficient for many tastes1 but it is easy to increase the proportion when more is liked4 ,six tablespoonsful of olive oil1 of the purest quality1 may be substituted for the cream3 it should be added in very small portions to the other ingredients1 and stirred briskly as each is added until the sauce resembles custard4 ,when this is used1 the water should be omitted4 ,the piquancy of this preparation--which is very delicate1 made by the directions just given--may be heightened by the addition of a little eschalot vinegar1 ,harvey's sauce1 essence of anchovies1 ,french mustard1 or tarragon vinegar2 or by bruising with the eggs a morsel of garlic1 half the size of a hazel-nut3 it should always1 however1 be rendered as appropriate as may be to the dish with which it is to be served4 ,obs4 #a4--;,as we have before had occasion to remark1 garlic1 when very sparingly and judiciously used1 imparts a remarkably fine savour to a sauce or gravy1 and neither a strong nor a coarse one1 as it does when used in larger quantities4 ,the veriest morsel 7or1 as the ,french call it1 a mere soupon7 of the root1 is sufficient to give this agreeable piquancy1 but unless the proportion be extremely small1 the effect will be quite different4 ,the ,italians dress their salads upon a round of delicately toasted bread1 which is rubbed with garlic1 saturated with oil1 and sprinkled with cayenne1 before it is laid into the bowl3 they also eat the bread thus prepared1 but with less of oil1 and untoasted often1 before their meals1 as a digester4 ,obs4 #b4--;,french vinegar is so infinitely superior to ,english in strength1 purity1 and flavour1 that we cannot forbear to recommend it in preference for the use of the table4 ,we have for a long time past been supplied with some of most excellent quality 7labelled ,vinaigre de ,bordeaux7 imported by the ,messrs4 ,kent ,sons1 of ,upton-on-,severn1 who supply it largely1 we believe1 both to wholesale and retail venders in town and country4 ,,the ,,poet',s ,,receipt ,,for ,,salad4#fj ,footnote #fj3 ,note4--,this receipt1 though long privately circulated amongst the friends and acquaintance of its distinguished and regretted author1 now 7with permission7 appears for the first time in print4 ,we could not venture to deviate by a word from the original1 but we would suggest1 that the mixture forms almost a substitute for salad1 instead of a mere dressing4 ,it is1 however1 an admirable compound for those to whom the slight flavouring of onion is not an objection4 8,two large potatoes1 passed through kitchen sieve ,unwonted softness to the salad give2 ,of mordent mustard1 add a single spoon1 ,distrust the condiment which bites so soon2 ,but deem it not1 thou man of herbs1 a fault1 ,to add a double quantity of salt2 ,three times the spoon with oil of ,lucca crown1 ,and once with vinegar1 procured from town2 ,true flavour needs it1 and your poet begs ,the pounded yellow of two well-boiled eggs2 ,let onion atoms lurk within the bowl1 ,and1 scarce suspected1 animate the whole2 ,and lastly1 in the flavoured compound toss ,a magic teaspoon of anchovy sauce3 ,then1 though green turtle fail1 though venison's tough1 ,and ham and turkey are not boiled enough1 ,serenely full1 the epicure may say-- ,fate cannot harm me1--,i have dined to-day40 ,two well-boiled potatoes1 passed through a sieve2 a teaspoonful of mustard2 two teaspoonsful of salt2 one of essence of anchovy2 about a quarter of a teaspoonful of very finely-chopped onions1 well bruised into the mixture2 three tablespoonsful of oil2 one of vinegar2 the yolks of two eggs1 hard boiled4 ,stir up the salad immediately before dinner1 and stir it up thoroughly4 ,n4,b4--,as this salad is the result of great experience and reflection1 it is hoped young salad makers will not attempt to make any improvements upon it4 ,,sauce ,,mayonnaise4 7,for salads1 cold meat1 poultry1 fish1 or vegetables47 ,this is a very fine sauce when all the ingredients used for it are good2 but it will prove an uneatable compound to a delicate taste unless it be made with oil of the purest quality4 ,put into a large basin the yolks only of two very fresh eggs1 carefully freed from specks1 with a little salt and cayenne2 stir these well together1 then add about a teaspoonful of the purest salad oil1 and work the mixture round with a wooden spoon until it appears like cream4 ,pour in by slow degrees nearly half a pint of oil1 continuing at each interval to work the sauce as at first until it resumes the smoothness of cream1 and not a particle of the oil remains visible2 then add a couple of tablespoonsful of plain ,french or of tarragon vinegar1 and one of cold water to whiten the sauce4 ,a bit of clear veal jelly the size of an egg will improve it greatly4 ,the reader who may have a prejudice against the unboiled eggs which enter into the composition of the ,mayonnaise1 will find that the most fastidious taste would not detect their being raw1 if the sauce be well made2 and persons who dislike oil may partake of it in this form1 without being aware of its presence1 provided always that it be perfectly fresh1 and pure in flavour1 for otherwise it will be easily perceptible4 ,yolks of fresh unboiled eggs1 #b2 salt1 #a_/b saltspoonful1 or rather more2 cayenne2 oil1 full third of pint2 ,french or tarragon vinegar1 #b tablespoonsful2 cold water1 #a tablespoonful2 meat jelly 7if at hand71 size of an egg4 ,,red ,,or ,,green ,,mayonnaise ,,sauce4 ,colour may be given either to the preceding or to the following ,sauce ,mayonnaise by mingling with it some hard lobster-coral reduced to powder by rubbing it through a very fine hair-sieve3 the red hue of this is one of the most brilliant and beautiful that can be seen1 but the sauce for which it is used can only be appropriately served with fish or fish-salads4 ,spinach-green will impart a fine tint to any preparation1 but its flavour is objectionable3 that of parsley-green is more agreeable4 ,directions for both of these are contained in the previous chapter4 ,,imperial ,,mayonnaise4 7,an elegant jellied sauce1 or salad-dressing47 ,put into a bowl half a pint of aspic1 or of any very clear pale jellied stock 7that made usually for good white soup will serve for the purpose excellently72 add to it a couple of spoonsful of the purest olive-oil1 one of sharp vinegar1 and a little fine salt and cayenne4 ,break up the jelly quite small with the points of a whisk of osier-twigs1 stir the ingredients well together1 and then whisk them gently until they are converted into a smooth white sauce4 ,this receipt was derived originally from an admirable ,french cook1#fa who stood quite at the head of his profession2 but as he was accustomed to purvey for the tables of kings and emperors1 his directions require some curtailment and simplifying to adapt them to the resources of common ,english life4 ,he directs the preparation to be mixed and worked--to use a technical expression--over ice1 which cannot always be commanded1 except in opulent establishments1 and in large towns4 ,it is not1 however1 essential to the success of this sauce1 which will prove extremely good if made and kept in a cool larder2 or1 if the bowl in which it is mingled be placed in a pan of cold water1 into which plenty of saltpetre and sal-ammoniac1 roughly powdered1 are thrown at the moment it is set into it4 ,in this country a smaller proportion of oil1 and a larger one of acid1 are usually preferred to the common ,french salad-dressings1 in which there is generally a very small portion of vinegar4 ,to some tastes a spoonful or two of cream would improve the present ,mayonnaise1 which may be varied also with chili1 tarragon1 or other flavoured vinegar4 ,it should be served heaped high in the centre of the salad1 for which1 if large1 double the quantity directed here should be prepared4 ,footnote #fa3 ,monsieur ,carme1 to whose somewhat elaborate but admirable works1 published thirty years or more since1 all modern cooks appear to be specially indebted4 ,,remoulade4 ,this differs little from an ordinary ,english salad-dressing4 ,pound very smoothly indeed the yolks of two or three hard-boiled eggs with a teaspoonful of mustard1 half as much salt1 and some cayenne1 or white pepper4 ,mix gradually with them1 working the whole well together1 two or three tablespoonsful of oil and two of vinegar4 ,should the sauce be curdled1 pour it by degrees to the yolk of a raw egg1 stirring it well round as directed for the ,mayonnaise4 ,a spoonful of tarragon1 cucumber1 or eschalot-vinegar1 may be added with very good effect2 and to give it increased relish1 a teaspoonful of cavice1 or a little of ,harvey's sauce1 and a dessertspoonful of chili vinegar may be thrown into it4 ,this last is an excellent addition to all cold sauces1 or salad-dressings4 ,hard yolks of #b or of #c eggs2 mustard1 #a teaspoonful 7more when liked72 salt1 #a_/b teaspoonful2 pepper or cayenne2 oil1 #c tablespoonsful2 vinegar1 #b4 ,if curdled1 yolk of #a raw egg4 ,good additions3 tarragon or eschalot1 or cucumber-vinegar1 #a tablespoonful2 chili vinegar1 #a dessertspoonful2 cavice or ,harvey's sauce at pleasure4 ,obs4--,a dessertspoonful of eschalots1 or a morsel of garlic1 very finely minced1 are sometimes pounded with the yolks of eggs for this sauce4 ,,oxford ,,brawn ,,sauce4 ,mingle thoroughly a tablespoonful of brown sugar with a teaspoonful of made mustard1 a third as much of salt1 some pepper1 from three to four tablespoonsful of very fine salad-oil1 and two of strong vinegar2 or apportion the same ingredients otherwise to the taste4 ,,forced ,,eggs ,,for ,,garnishing ,,salad4 ,pound and press through the back of a hair-sieve the flesh of three very fine1 or of four moderate-sized anchovies1 freed from the bones and skin4 ,boil six fresh eggs for twelve minutes1 and when they are perfectly cold1 halve them lengthwise1 take out the yolks1 pound them to a paste with a third of their volume of fresh butter1 then add the anchovies1 a quarter of a teaspoonful of mace1 and as much cayenne as will season the mixture well2 beat these together thoroughly1 and fill the whites of egg neatly with them4 ,a morsel of garlic1 perfectly blended with the other ingredients1 would to some tastes improve this preparation3 a portion of anchovy-butter1 or of potted ham1 will supply the place of fish in it very advantageously4 ,eggs1 #f2 anchovies1 #d2 butter1 size of #b yolks2 mace1 #a_/d teaspoonful2 cayenne1 third as much4 ,,anchovy ,,butter4 7,excellent47 ,scrape the skin quite clear from a dozen fine mellow anchovies1 free the flesh entirely from the bones1 and pound it as smooth as possible in a mortar2 rub it through the back of a hair-sieve with a wooden spoon2 wipe out the mortar1 and put back the anchovies with three quarters of a pound of very fresh butter1 a small half-saltspoonful of cayenne1 and more than twice as much of finely grated nutmeg1 and freshly pounded mace2 and beat them together until they are thoroughly blended4 ,if to serve cold at table1 mould the butter in small shapes1 and turn it out4 ,a little rose pink 7which is sold at the chemists'7 is sometimes used to give it a fine colour1 but it must be sparingly used1 or it will impart an unpleasant flavour1 and we cannot much recommend its use3 it should be well pounded1 and very equally mixed with it4 ,for kitchen use1 press the butter down into jars or pattypans1 and keep it in a cool place4 ,fine anchovies1 #ab2 butter1 #c_/d lb42 cayenne1 small #a_/b saltspoonful2 nutmeg and mace1 each more than twice as much2 rose pink 7if used71 #a_/b teaspoonful4 ,this proportion differs from potted anchovies only in the larger proportion of butter mixed with the fish1 and the milder seasoning of spice4 ,it will assist to form an elegant dish if made into pats1 and stamped with a tasteful impression1 then placed alternately with pats of lobster-butter1 and decorated with light foliage4 ,it is generally eaten with much relish when carefully compounded1 and makes excellent sandwiches4 ,to convert it into a good fish sauce1 mix two or three ounces of it with a teaspoonful of flour and a few spoonsful of cold water1 or of pale veal stock1 and keep them constantly stirred until they boil4 ,the butter should not be moulded directly it is taken from the mortar1 as it is then very soft from the beating4 ,it should be placed until it is firm in a very cool place or over ice1 when it can be done conveniently4 ,,lobster ,,butter4 ,pound to the smoothest possible paste the coral of one or two fresh hen lobsters1 mix with it about an equal proportion of fresh firm butter1 and a moderate seasoning of mace and cayenne1 with a little salt if needed4 ,let the whole be thoroughly blended1 and set it aside in a cool larder1 or place it over ice until it is sufficiently firm to be made into pats4 ,serve it garnished with curled parsley1 or with any light foliage which will contrast well with its brilliant colour4 ,the coral may be rubbed through a fine sieve before it is put into the mortar1 and will then require but little pounding4 ,an excellent preparation is produced by mingling equal proportions of lobster and of anchovy butter in the mortar1 or one-third of the anchovy with two of lobster3 to this some of the white flesh of the latter can be added to give another variety1 after it has been prepared by the receipt for boudirettes1 ,chapter ,,iii4 ,,truffled ,,butter 7,,and ,,truffles ,,potted ,,in ,,butter47 7,for the breakfast or luncheon table47 ,cut up a pound of sweet fresh butter1 and dissolve it gently over a clear fire2 take off the scum which will gather thickly upon it1 and when it has simmered for three or four minutes1 draw it from the fire1 and let it stand until all the buttermilk has subsided2 pour it softly from this upon six ounces of ready-pared sound ,french truffles1 cut into small1 but rather thick1 slices1 and laid into a delicately clean enamelled saucepan2 add a full seasoning of freshly pounded mace and fine cayenne1 a small saltspoonful of salt1 and half a not large nutmeg4 ,when the butter has become quite cold1 proceed to heat the truffles slowly1 shaking the saucepan often briskly round1 and stew them as gently as possible for twenty minutes1 or longer should they not then be very tender4 ,if allowed to heat1 and to boil quickly1 they will become hard1 and the preparation1 as regards the truffles1 will be a comparative failure4 ,lift them with a spoon into quite dry earthen or china pans1 and pour the butter on them2 or add to them sufficient of it only to cover them well and to exclude the air1 and pot the remainder of the butter apart3 it will be finely flavoured1 and may be eaten by delicate persons to whom the truffle itself would be injurious4 ,it may also be used in compounding savoury sauces1 and for moistening small croustades before they are fried or baked4 ,the truffles themselves will remain good for months when thus prepared1 if kept free from damp2 and in flavour they will be found excellent4 ,the parings taken from them will also impart a very agreeable savour to the butter1 and will serve extremely well for it for immediate use4 ,they will also be valuable as additions to gravies or to soups4 ,we should observe1 that the juice which will have exuded from the truffles in the stewing will cause the preparation to become mouldy1 or otherwise injure it1 if it be put into the pans either with them or with the butter4 ,the truffles must be well drained from it when they are taken from the saucepan1 and the butter must remain undisturbed for a few minutes1 when it can be poured clear from the juice1 which will have subsided to the bottom of the pan4 ,we have given here the result of our first experiment1 which we found on further trial to answer perfectly4 ,,english ,,salads4 ,the herbs and vegetables for a salad cannot be too freshly gathered2 they should be carefully cleared from insects and washed with scrupulous nicety2 they are better when not prepared until near the time of sending them to table1 and should not be sauced until the instant before they are served4 ,tender lettuces1 of which the stems should be cut off1 and the outer leaves be stripped away1 mustard and cress1 young radishes1 and occasionally chives or small green onions 7when the taste of a party is in favour of these last7 are the usual ingredients of summer salads4 7,in early spring1 as we have stated in another chapter1 the young white leaves of the dandelion will supply a very wholesome and excellent salad1 of which the slight bitterness is to many persons as agreeable as that of the endive47 ,half-grown cucumbers sliced thin1 and mixed with them1 are a favourite addition with many persons4 ,in ,england it is customary to cut the lettuces extremely fine2 the ,french1 who object to the flavour of the knife1 which they fancy this mode imparts1 break them small instead4 ,young celery alone1 sliced and dressed with a rich salad mixture1 is excellent3 it is still in some families served thus always with roast pheasants4 ,beet-root1 baked or boiled1 blanched endive1 small salad-herbs which are easily raised at any time of the year1 celery1 and hardy lettuces1 with any ready-dressed vegetable1 will supply salads through the winter4 ,cucumber vinegar is an agreeable addition to these4 ,,french ,,salad4 ,in winter this is made principally of beautifully-blanched endive1 washed delicately clean and broken into small branches with the fingers1 then taken from the water and shaken dry in a basket of peculiar form1 appropriated to the purpose1#fb or in a fine cloth2 then arranged in the salad bowl1 and strewed with herbs 7tarragon generally1 when in season7 minced small3 the dressing is not added until just before the salad is eaten4 ,in summer1 young lettuces are substituted for the endive1 and intermixed with a variety of herbs1 some of which are not generally cultivated in ,england4 ,footnote #fb3 ,salad-baskets are also to be found in many good ,english kitchens1 but they are not in such general use here as on the continent4 ,,french ,,salad ,,dressing4 ,stir a saltspoonful of salt and half as much pepper into a large spoonful of oil1 and when the salt is dissolved1 mix with them four additional spoonsful of oil1 and pour the whole over the salad2 let it be well turned1 and then add a couple of spoonsful of tarragon vinegar2 mix the whole thoroughly1 and serve it without delay4 ,the salad should not be dressed in this way until the instant before it is wanted for table3 the proportions of salt and pepper can be increased at pleasure1 and common or cucumber vinegar may be substituted for the tarragon1 which1 however1 is more frequently used in ,france than any other4 ,salt1 #a spoonful3 pepper1 #a_/b as much2 oil1 #e saladspoonsful2 tarragon1 or other vinegar1 #b spoonsful4 ,,des ,,cerneaux1 ,,or ,,walnut ,,salad4 ,this is a common summer salad in ,france1 where the growth of walnuts is generally abundant1 but is not much served in ,england2 though the sweet flavour of the just-formed nut is very agreeable4 ,take the walnuts when a pin will pierce them easily1 pare them down to the kernels1 and toss them gently1 just before they are served1 in a ,french or ,english salad-dressing 7the former would generally be preferred we think71 and turn them into the salad-bowl for table4 ,,suffolk ,,salad4 ,fill a salad-bowl from half to three parts full with very tender lettuces shred small1 minced lean of ham1 and hard-boiled eggs1 or their yolks only also minced1 placed in alternate layers2 dress the mixture with ,english salad sauce1 but do not pour it into the bowl until the instant of serving4 ,a portion of cold chicken 7or veal71 cut in thin slices about the size of a shilling1 may be added when convenient2 the ham and eggs also may be sliced instead of being minced1 and the whole neatly arranged in a chain or otherwise round the inside of the bowl4 ,,yorkshire ,,ploughman',s ,,salad4 ,mix treacle and vinegar1 in the proportion of one tablespoonful of the first to two of the latter2 add a little black pepper1 and eat the sauce with lettuces shred small 7with an intermixture of young onions when they are liked74 ,,an ,,excellent ,,salad ,,of ,,young ,,vegetables4 ,pare off the coarse1 fibrous parts from four or five artichoke bottoms1 boiled quite tender1 well drained1 and freed carefully from the insides2 cut them into quarters1 and lay them into the salad-bowl2 arrange over them some cold new potatoes and young carrots sliced moderately thin1 strew minced tarragon1 chervil1 or any other herbs which may be better liked1 thickly over the surface1 and sauce the salad with an ,english or ,french dressing just before it is sent to table4 ,very young ,french beans cut into short lozenge-shaped lengths1 or asparagus points1 can be added to this dish at pleasure2 or small tufts of cauliflower may be placed round it4 ,when these additions are made1 the herbs are better omitted3 a little of the liquor of pickled ,indian mangoes may be advantageously mixed with the sauce for this salad1 or in lieu of it some chili vinegar or cayenne pepper4 ,the ,dutch or ,american sauce of the previous pages would also make an appropriate dressing for it4 ,,sorrel ,,salad4 7,to serve with ,lamb-cutlets1 ,veal cutlets1 or ,roast ,lamb47 ,this1 though a very agreeable and refreshing salad1 is not to be recommended when there is the slightest tendency to disorder of the system2 for the powerful acid of the uncooked sorrel might in that case produce serious consequences4#fc ,footnote #fc3 ,it should be especially avoided when dysentery1 or other diseases of a similar nature1 are prevalent4 ,we mention this1 because if more general precaution were observed with regard to diet1 great suffering would1 in many instances1 be avoided4 ,take from the stems some very young tender sorrel1 wash it delicately clean1 drain it well1 and shake it dry in a salad-basket1 or in a soft cloth held by the four corners2 arrange it lightly in the bowl1 and at the instant of serving1 sauce it simply with the preceding ,french dressing of oil with a small portion of vinegar1 or with a ,mayonnaise mixed with chili instead of a milder vinegar4 ,the sorrel may be divided with the fingers and mingled with an equal proportion of very tender lettuces2 and1 when it is not objected to1#fd mixed tarragon may be strewed thickly upon them4 ,to some tastes a small quantity of green onions or of eschalots would be more agreeable4 ,footnote #fd3 ,the peculiar flavour of this fine aromatic herb is less generally relished in ,england than in many other countries2 but when it is not disliked it may be used with great advantage in our cookery3 it is easily cultivated1 and quite deserves a nook in every kitchen-garden4 ,,lobster ,,salad4 ,first1 prepare a sauce with the coral of a hen lobster1 pounded and rubbed through a sieve1 and very gradually mixed with a good mayonnaise1 remoulade1 or ,english salad-dressing of the present chapter4 ,next1 half fill the bowl or more with small salad herbs1 or with young lettuces finely shred1 and arrange upon them spirally1 or in a chain1 alternate slices of the flesh of a large lobster1 or of two middling-sized ones1 and some hard-boiled eggs cut thin and evenly4 ,leave a space in the centre1 pour in the sauce1 heap lightly some small salad on the top1 and send the dish immediately to table4 ,the coral of a second lobster may be intermingled with the white flesh of the fish with very good effect2 and the forced eggs of page #acg may be placed at intervals round the edge of the bowl as a decoration1 and an excellent accompaniment as well4 ,another mode of making the salad is to lay the split bodies of the fish round the bowl1 and the claws1 freed carefully from the shells1 arranged high in the centre on the herbs2 the soft part of the bodies may be mixed with the sauce when it is liked2 but the colour will not then be good4 ,obs4--,the addition of cucumber in ribbons 7see ,author's ,receipt1 ,chapter ,,xvii471 laid lightly round it1 is always an agreeable one to lobster salad3 they may previously be sauced1 and then drained from their dressing a little4 ,a more wholesome and safer mode of imparting the flavour of the cucumber1 however1 is to use for the salad vinegar in which that vegetable has been steeped for some hours after having been cut up small4 ,,an ,,excellent ,,herring ,,salad4 7,swedish ,receipt47 ,soak1 skin1 split1 and bone a large ,norway herring2 lay the two sides along a dish1 and slice them slopingly 7or substitute for this one or two fine ,dutch herrings74 ,arrange in symmetrical order over the fish slices of cooked beet-root1 cold boiled potatoes1 and pickled gherkins2 then add one or two sharp apples chopped small1 and the yolks and whites1 separately minced1 of some hard-boiled eggs1 with any thing else which may be at hand1 and may serve to vary tastefully the decoration of the dish4 ,place these ingredients in small heaps of well-contrasting colours on the surface of the salad1 and lay a border of curled celery leaves or parsley round the bowl4 ,for sauce1 rub the yolk of one hard-boiled egg quite smooth with some salt2 to this add oil and vinegar as for an ordinary salad1 and dilute the whole with some thick sour cream4 ,obs4--8,sour cream0 is an ingredient not much approved by ,english taste1 but it enters largely into ,german cookery1 and into that of ,sweden1 and of other northern countries also4 ,about half a pound of cold beef cut into small thin shavings or collops1 is often added to a herring-salad abroad3 it may be either of simply roasted or boiled1 or of salted and smoked meat4 ,,tartar ,,sauce4 7,sauce la ,tartare74 ,add to the preceding remoulade1 or to any other sauce of the same nature1 a teaspoonful or more of made mustard1 one of finely-minced shalots1 one of parsley or tarragon1 and one of capers or of pickled gherkins1 with a rather high seasoning of cayenne1 and some salt if needed4 ,the tartar-mustard of the previous chapter1 or good ,french mustard1 is to be preferred to ,english for this sauce1 which is usually made very pungent1 and for which any ingredients can be used to the taste which will serve to render it so4 ,tarragon vinegar1 minced tarragon and eschalots1 and plenty of oil1 are used for it in ,france1 in conjunction with the yolks of one or two eggs1 and chopped capers1 or gherkins1 to which olives are sometimes added4 ,,shrimp ,,chatney4 7,mauritian ,receipt47 ,shell with care a quart of fresh shrimps 7for the mode of doing this see ,chapter ,,iii471 mince them quickly upon a dish with a large sharp knife1 then turn them into a mortar and pound them to a perfectly smooth paste4 ,next1 mix with them very gradually two or three spoonsful of salad oil of the best quality1 some young green chilies chopped small 7or when these cannot be procured1 some good cayenne pepper as a substitute71 some young onions finely minced1 a little salt if required1 and as much vinegar or strained lemon juice as will render the sauce pleasantly acid4 ,half a saltspoonful or more of powdered ginger is sometimes used in addition to the above ingredients4 ,when they are preferred1 two or three small shalots minced and well bruised with the shrimps may be substituted for the onions4#fe ,the proportion of oil should be double that of the vinegar used2 but in this preparation1 as in all others of the same nature1 individual taste must regulate the proportion of the most powerful condiments which enter into its composition4 ,all chatneys should be quite thick1 almost of the consistence of mashed turnips1 or stewed tomatas1 or stiff bread sauce4 ,they are served with curries2 and also with steaks1 cutlets1 cold meat1 and fish4 ,in the ,east the native cooks crush to a pulp upon a stone slab1 and with a stone roller1 the ingredients which we direct to be pounded4 ,on occasion the fish might be merely minced4 ,when beaten to a paste1 they should be well separated with a fork as the chilies1 c41 are added4 ,footnote #fe3 ,the sauce can be made without either when their flavour is not liked4 ,,capsicumb ,,chatney4 ,slice transversely and very thin1 into a bowl or pan of spring water1 some large tender green capsicumbs1 and let them steep for an hour or two2 then drain1 and dress with oil1 vinegar1 and salt4 ,for ,,tomata and ,,sausage ,,chatney1 see ,,chapter ,,of ,,foreign ,,cookery4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,chapter ,,vii4 ,store ,sauces4 ,illustration3 ,mushrooms1 ,eschalots1 and ,tomatas4 ,,observations4 ,a ,,well selected stock of these will always prove a convenient resource in simple cookery for giving colour and flavour to soups1 gravies1 and made dishes2 but unless the consumption be considerable1 they should not be over-abundantly provided1 as few of them are improved by age1 and many are altogether spoiled by long keeping1 especially if they be not perfectly secured from the air by sound corking1 or if stored where there is the slightest degree of damp4 ,to prevent loss1 they should be examined at short intervals1 and at the first appearance of mould or fermentation1 such as will bear the process should be reboiled1 and put1 when again quite cold1 into clean bottles2 a precaution often especially needful for mushroom catsup when it has been made in a wet season1 or when it has not been very carefully prepared4 ,this1 with essence of anchovies1 walnut catsup1 ,harvey's sauce1 cavice1 lemon-pickle1 chili1 cucumber1 and eschalot vinegar1 will be all that is commonly needed for family use2 but there is at the present day an extensive choice of these stores on sale1 some of which are excellent4 ,,chetney ,,sauce4 7,bengal ,receipt74 ,illustration3 ,garlic4 ,stone four ounces of good raisins1 and chop them small1 with half a pound of crabs1 sour apples1 unripe bullaces1#ff or of any other hard acid fruit4 ,take four ounces of coarse brown sugar1 two of powdered ginger1 and the same quantity of salt and cayenne pepper2 grind these ingredients separately in a mortar1 as fine as possible2 then pound the fruits well1 and mix the spices with them1 one by one2 beat them together until they are perfectly blended1 and add gradually as much vinegar as will make the sauce of the consistence of thick cream4 ,put it into bottles with an ounce of garlic1 divided into cloves1 and cork it tightly4 ,footnote #ff3 ,hard acid fruit in a crude state is1 we think1 an ingredient not much to be recommended2 and it is always better to deviate a little from 8an approved receipt0 than to endanger health by the use of ingredients of a questionable character4 ,gooseberries or tomatas1 after being subjected to a moderate degree of heat1 might be eaten with far less hazard4 ,stoned raisins1 #d oz42 crabs1 or other acid fruit1 #a_/b lb42 coarse sugar1 #d oz42 powdered ginger1 #b oz42 salt1 #b oz42 cayenne pepper1 #b oz42 garlic1 #a oz42 vinegar1 enough to dilute it properly4 ,obs4--,this favourite oriental sauce is compounded in a great variety of ways2 but some kind of acid fruit is essential to it4 ,the mango is used in ,india2 here gooseberries1 while still hard and green1 are sometimes used for it2 and ripe red chilies and tomatas are mixed with the other ingredients4 ,the sauce keeps better if it be exposed to a gentle degree of heat for a week or two1 either by the side of the fire1 or in a full southern aspect in the sun3 the heat of a very slow oven1 in which it might be left for a night1 would probably have a still better effect4 ,in this case it must be put into a jar or bottles1 and well secured from the air4 ,half a pound of gooseberries1 or of these and tamarinds from the shell1 and green apples mixed1 and the same weight of salt1 stoned raisins1 brown sugar1 powdered ginger1 chilies1 and garlic1 with a pint and a half of vinegar1 and the juice of three large lemons1 will make another genuine ,bengal chetney4 ,,fine ,,mushroom ,,catsup4 ,one of the very best and most useful of store sauces is good home-made mushroom catsup1 which1 if really well prepared1 imparts an agreeable flavour to any soup or sauce with which it is mingled1 and at the same time heightens the colour without imparting the 8bitter sweetness0 which the burnt sugar used as 8browning0 in clumsy cookery so often does4 ,the catsup ought1 in fact1 to be rather the pure essence of mushrooms1 made with so much salt and spice only as are required to preserve it for a year or longer1 than the compound of mushroom-juice1 anchovies1 shalots1 allspice1 and other condiments of which it is commonly composed1 especially for sale4 ,directions to be observed in making and for keeping the catsup4--,let the mushrooms be collected when the weather is dry1 for if gathered during1 or immediately after rain1 the catsup made with them will not keep well4 ,cut off the stalk-ends to which the earth adheres1 before the mushrooms are broken up1 and throw them aside1 as they should never be used for the catsup4 ,reject also such of the flaps as are worm-eaten or decayed4 ,those which are too stale for use may be detected by the smell1 which is very offensive4 ,when the mushroom first opens1 the underside is of a fine pale salmon colour2 this changes soon to a sort of ashy-brown1 which deepens almost to black as the mushroom passes from its maturity to a state of decay4 ,as it yields a greater abundance of juice when it is fully ripe1 it is usually taken in that state for these sauces2 but catsup of fine and delicate flavour1 though somewhat pale in colour1 can be made even of mushroom-buttons if they be sliced up small and turned often in the liquid which will be speedily drawn from them by the application of salt2 a rather smaller proportion of which should be mingled with them than is directed for the following receipt4 ,every thing used in preparing the catsup should be delicately clean and very dry4 ,the bottles in which it is stored1 after being dried in the usual way1 should be laid into a cool oven for an hour or two before they are filled1 to ensure their being free from the slightest degree of moisture1 but they must be quite cold before the catsup is poured into them4 ,if the corks be sealed so as to exclude the air effectually1 or if well-cleansed bits of bladder first dried1 and then rendered flexible with a little spirit of any kind 7spirits of wine is convenient for such purposes71 be tied closely over them1 and the bottles can be kept in a cool place free from damp1 the catsup will remain good for a long time4 ,,mushroom ,,catsup4 ,receipt3--,break up small into a deep earthen pan1 two gallons of large ripe mushroom-flaps1 and strew amongst them three quarters of a pound of salt1 reserving the larger portion of it for the top4 ,let them remain two days1 and stir them gently with a wooden spoon often during the time2 then turn them into a large stewpan or enamelled saucepan1 heat them slowly1 and simmer them for fifteen or twenty minutes4 ,strain the liquor closely from them without pressure2 strain and measure it2 put it into a very clean stewpan1 and boil it quickly until it is reduced nearly half4 ,for every quart allow half an ounce of black peppercorns and a drachm of mace2 or1 instead of the pepper1 a quarter of a teaspoonful 7ten grains7 of good cayenne2 pour the catsup into a clean jug or jar1 lay a folded cloth over it1 and keep it in a cool place until the following day2 pour it gently from the sediment1 put into small bottles1 cork them well1 and rosin them down4 ,a teaspoonful of salad oil may be poured into each bottle before it is corked1 the better to exclude the air from the catsup4 ,mushrooms1 #b gallons2 salt1 #c_/d lb42 to macerate three or four days4 ,to each quart of liquor1 #a_/b oz4 black pepper1 or quarter of a teaspoonful of cayenne2 and #a drachm of mace3 to be reduced nearly half4 ,obs4 #a4--;,catsup made thus will not be too salt1 nor will the flavour of the mushrooms be overpowered by that of the spices2 of which a larger quantity1 and a greater variety1 can be used at will4 ,we can1 however1 answer for the excellence of the present receipt from long experience of it4 ,when the catsup is boiled down quite early in the day1 it may be bottled the same night3 it is necessary only1 that it should perfectly cold before this is done4 ,obs4 #b4--,when the mushrooms are crushed1 or mashed1 as some authors direct1 the liquor will necessarily be very thick2 it is better to proceed as above1 and then to boil the liquor which may afterwards be extracted from the mushrooms by pressure1 with the sediment of the catsup1 and sufficient cloves1 pepper1 allspice1 and ginger1 to flavour it highly3 this second catsup will be found very useful to mix with common thickened sauces1 hashes1 and stews4 ,,mushroom ,,catsup4 7,another ,receipt47 ,break a peck of large mushrooms into a deep earthenpan2 strew three quarters of a pound of salt amongst them1 and set them into a very cool oven for one night1 with a fold of cloth or paper over them4 ,the following day strain off the liquor1 measure1 and boil it for fifteen minutes2 then1 for each quart1 add an ounce of black pepper1 a quarter of an ounce of allspice1 half an ounce of ginger1 and two large blades of mace1 and let it boil fast for twenty minutes longer4 ,when thoroughly cold1 put it into bottles1 cork them well1 and dip the necks into melted bottle-cement1 or seal them so as to secure the catsup from the air4 ,mushrooms1 #a peck2 salt1 #c_/d lb4 ,liquor to boil1 #ae minutes4 ,to each quart1 #a_/b oz4 black pepper2 #a_/d oz4 allspice2 #a_/b oz4 ginger2 #b blades mace3 #bj minutes4 ,,double ,,mushroom ,,catsup4 ,on a gallon of fresh mushrooms strew three ounces of salt1 and pour to them a quart of ready-made catsup 7that which is a year old will do if it be perfectly good72 keep these stirred occasionally for four days1 then drain the liquor very dry from the mushrooms1 and boil it for fifteen minutes with an ounce of whole black pepper1 a drachm of mace1 an ounce of ginger1 and three or four grains only of cayenne4 ,mushrooms1 #a gallon2 salt1 #c oz42 mushroom catsup1 #a quart2 peppercorns1 #a oz42 mace1 #a drachm2 ginger1 #a oz42 cayenne1 #c to #d grains3 #ae minutes4 ,,compound1 ,,or ,,cook',s ,,catsup4 ,take a pint and a half of mushroom catsup when it is first made1 and ready boiled 7the double is best for the purpose71 simmer in it for five minutes an ounce of small eschalots nicely peeled2 add to these half a pint of walnut catsup1 and a wineglassful of cayenne vinegar1 or of chili vinegar2 give the whole one boil1 pour it out1 and when cold1 bottle it with the eschalots in it4 ,mushroom catsup1 #a-a_/b pint2 eschalots1 #a oz42 walnut catsup or pickle1 #a_/b pint2 cayenne or chili vinegar1 #a wineglassful4 ,,walnut ,,catsup4 ,the vinegar in which walnuts have been pickled1 when they have remained in it a year1 will generally answer all the purposes for which this catsup is required1 particularly if it be drained from them and boiled for a few minutes1 with a little additional spice1 and a few eschalots2 but where the vinegar is objected to1 it may be made either by boiling the expressed juice of young walnuts for an hour1 with six ounces of fine anchovies1 four ounces of eschalots1 half an ounce of black pepper1 a quarter of an ounce of cloves1 and a drachm of mace1 to every quart2 or as follows3-- ,pound in a mortar a hundred young walnuts1 strewing amongst them as they are done half a pound of salt2 then pour to them a quart of strong vinegar1 and let them stand until they have become quite black1 keeping them stirred three or four times a day2 next add a quart of strong old beer1 and boil the whole together for ten minutes2 strain it1 and let it remain until the next day2 then pour it off clear from the sediment1 add to it half a pound of anchovies1 one large head of garlic bruised1 half an ounce of nutmegs bruised1 the same quantity of cloves and black pepper1 and two drachms of mace3 boil these together for half an hour1 and the following day bottle and cork the catsup well4 ,it will keep for a dozen years4 ,many persons add to it1 before it is boiled1 a bottle of port wine2 and others recommend a large bunch of sweet herbs to be put in with the spice4 #ast ,recipe4 ,expressed juice of walnuts1 #a quart2 anchovies1 #f oz42 eschalots1 #d oz42 black pepper1 #a_/b oz42 cloves1 #a_/d oz42 mace1 #a drachm3 #a hour4 #bnd4 ,walnuts1 #ajj2 salt1 #a_/b lb42 vinegar1 #a quart2 to stand till black4 ,strong beer1 #a quart2 anchovies1 #a_/b lb42 #a head garlic2 nutmegs1 #a_/b oz42 cloves1 #a_/b oz42 black pepper1 #a_/b oz42 mace1 #b drachms3 #a_/b hour4 ,,another ,,good ,,receipt ,,for ,,walnut ,,catsup4 ,beat a hundred green walnuts in a large marble mortar until they are thoroughly bruised and broken1 and then put them into a stone jar1 with half a pound of eschalots1 cut in slices1 one head of garlic1 half a pound of salt1 and two quarts of vinegar2 let them stand for ten days1 and stir them night and morning4 ,strain off the liquor1 and boil it for half an hour with the addition of two ounces of anchovies1 two of whole pepper1 half an ounce of cloves1 and two drachms of mace2 skim it well1 strain it off1 and when it is quite cold pour it gently from the sediment 7which may be reserved for flavouring common sauces7 into small dry bottles1 secure it from air by sound corking1 and store it in a dry place4 ,walnuts1 #ajj2 eschalots1 #a_/b lb42 garlic1 #a head1 salt1 #a_/b lb42 vinegar1 #b quarts3 #aj days4 ,anchovies1 #b oz42 black pepper1 #b oz42 mace1 #a_/d oz42 cloves1 #a_/b oz43 #a_/b hour4 ,,lemon ,,pickle ,,or ,,catsup4 ,either divide six small lemons into quarters1 remove all the pips that are in sight1 and strew three ounces of salt upon them1 and keep them turned in it for a week1 or1 merely make deep incisions in them1 and proceed as directed for pickled lemons4 ,when they have stood in a warm place for eight days1 put into a stone jar two ounces and a half of finely-scraped horseradish1 and two ounces of eschalots1 or one and a half of garlic2 to these add the lemons with all their liquor1 and pour on them a pint and a half of boiling vinegar in which half an ounce of bruised ginger1 a quarter of an ounce of whole white pepper1 and two blades of mace have been simmered for two or three minutes4 ,the pickle will be fit for use in two or three months1 but may stand four or five before it is strained off4 ,small lemons1 #f2 salt1 #c oz43 #h days4 ,horseradish1 #b-a_/b oz42 eschalots1 #b oz41 or garlic #a-a_/b oz42 vinegar1 #a-a_/b pint2 ginger1 #a_/b oz42 whole white pepper1 #a_/d oz42 mace1 #b blades3 #c to #f months4 ,obs4--,these highly-flavoured compounds are still much in favour with a certain class of housekeepers2 but they belong exclusively to ,english cookery3 they are altogether opposed to the practice of the ,french cuisine1 as well as to that of other foreign countries4 ,,pontac ,,catsup ,,for ,,fish4 ,on one pint of ripe elderberries stripped from the stalks1 pour three quarters of a pint of boiling vinegar1 and let it stand in a cool oven all night2 the next day strain off the liquid without pressure1 and boil it for five minutes with a half-teaspoonful of salt1 a small race of ginger1 a blade of mace1 forty corns of pepper1 twelve cloves and four eschalots4 ,bottle it with the spice when it is quite cold4 ,,bottled ,,tomatas1 ,,or ,,tomata ,,catsup4 ,cut half a peck of ripe tomatas into quarters2 lay them on dishes and sprinkle over them half a pound of salt4 ,the next day drain the juice from them through a hair-sieve into a stewpan1 and boil it for half an hour with three dozens of small capsicums and half a pound of eschalots2 then add the tomatas1 which should be ready pulped through a strainer4 ,boil the whole for thirty minutes longer2 have some clean wide-necked bottles1 kept warm by the fire1 fill them with the catsup while it is quite hot2 cork1 and dip the necks into melted bottle-resin or cement4 ,tomatas1 #a_/b peck2 salt1 #a_/b lb42 capsicums1 #c doz42 eschalots1 #a_/b lb43 #a_/b hour4 ,after pulp is added1 #a_/b hour4 ,obs4--,this receipt has been kindly contributed by a person who makes by it every year large quantities of the catsup1 which is considered excellent3 for sauce it must be mixed with gravy or melted butter4 ,we have not ourselves been able to make trial of it4 ,,epicurean ,,sauce4 ,mix well1 by shaking them in a bottle1 a wineglassful of ,indian soy1 half a pint of chili vinegar1 half a pint of walnut catsup1 and a pint and a half of the best mushroom catsup4 ,these proportions make an excellent sauce1 either to mix with melted butter1 and to serve with fish1 or to add to different kinds of gravy2 but they can be varied1 or added to1 at pleasure4 ,indian soy1 #a wineglassful2 chili vinegar1 #a_/b pint2 walnut catsup1 #a_/b pint2 mushroom catsup1 #a-a_/b pint4 ,,tarragon ,,vinegar4 ,gather the tarragon just before it blossoms1 which will be late in ,july1 or early in ,august2 strip it from the larger stalks1 and put it into small stone jars or wide-necked bottles1 and in doing this twist some of the branches so as to bruise the leaves and wring them asunder2 then pour in sufficient distilled or very pale vinegar to cover the tarragon2 let it infuse for two months1 or more3 it will take no harm even by standing all the winter4 ,when it is poured off1 strain it very clear1 put it into small dry bottles1 and cork them well4 ,sweet basil vinegar is made in exactly the same way1 but it should not be left on the leaves more than three weeks4 ,the jars or bottles should be filled to the neck with the tarragon before the vinegar is added3 its flavour is strong and peculiar1 but to many tastes very agreeable4 ,it imparts quite a foreign character to the dishes for which it is used4 ,,green ,,mint ,,vinegar4 ,slightly chop1 or bruise1 freshly-gathered mint1 and put it into bottles2 fill them nearly to the necks1 and add vinegar as for tarragon3 in forty days1 strain it off1 and bottle it for use4 ,the mint itself1 ready minced for sauce1 will keep well in vinegar1 though the colour will not be very good4 ,the young leaves stripped from the stems1 should be used for this preparation4 ,,cucumber ,,vinegar4 ,first wipe1 and then1 without paring1 slice into a stone jar some young and quickly-grown cucumbers2 pour on them as much boiling vinegar as will cover them well1 with a teaspoonful of salt1 and two-thirds as much of peppercorns to the pint and a half of vinegar3 it may remain on them for a month1 or even for two1 if well defended from the air3 it should then be strained1 allowed to settle1 and poured quite clear into small dry bottles1 which should be well corked4 ,a mild onion can be intermixed with the cucumbers1 when its flavour is considered an improvement4 ,,celery ,,vinegar4 ,throw into a pint and a half of ready boiling vinegar a few grains of cayenne1 or half an ounce of peppercorns1 a large saltspoonful of salt1 and a pint of the white part of the roots and stems of some fine fresh celery sliced up thin3 let it boil for two or three minutes1 turn it into a stone jar1 and secure it well from the air as soon as it is cold4 ,it may be strained off and bottled in three or four weeks1 but may remain as many months in the jar without injury4 ,,eschalot1 ,,or ,,garlic ,,vinegar4 ,on from four to six ounces of eschalots or on two of garlic peeled and bruised1 pour a quart of the best vinegar2 stop the jar or bottle close1 and in a fortnight or three weeks the vinegar may be strained off for use3 a few drops will give a sufficient flavour to a sauce1 or to a tureen of gravy4 ,eschalots1 #d to #f oz42 or1 garlic1 #b to #d oz42 vinegar1 #a quart3 #ae to #ba days4 ,obs4--,these roots may be used in smaller or in larger proportion1 as a slighter or a stronger flavour of them is desired1 and may remain longer in the vinegar without any detriment to it4 ,,eschalot ,,wine4 ,this is a far more useful preparation even than the preceding one1 since it can be used to impart the flavour of the eschalot to dishes for which acid is not required4 ,peel and slice1 or bruise1 four ounces of eschalots1 put them into a bottle1 and add to them a pint of sherry2 in a fortnight pour off the wine1 and should it not be strongly flavoured with the eschalots1 steep in it two ounces more1 for another fortnight2 a half-teaspoonful of cayenne may be added at first4 ,the bottle should be shaken occasionally1 while the eschalots are infusing1 but should remain undisturbed for the last two or three days1 that the wine may be clear when it is poured off to bottle for keeping4 ,sweet-basil wine is made by steeping the fresh leaves of the herb in wine1 from ten to fifteen days4 ,eschalots1 #d oz42 sherry1 #a pint3 #ae days1 or more4 ,,horseradish ,,vinegar4 ,on four ounces of young and freshly-scraped horseradish pour a quart of boiling vinegar1 and cover it down closely3 it will be ready for use in three or four days1 but may remain for weeks1 or months1 before the vinegar is poured off4 ,an ounce of minced eschalot may be substituted for one of the horseradish1 if the flavour be liked4 ,,cayenne ,,vinegar4 ,put from a quarter to half an ounce of the best cayenne pepper into a bottle1 and pour on it a pint of pale vinegar4 ,cork it closely1 and shake it well every two or three days4 ,it may remain any length of time before it is poured off1 but will very soon be ready for use4 ,good cayenne pepper1 #a_/d to #a_/b oz42 vinegar1 #a pint3 infuse from #b weeks to #ab months4 ,,lemon ,,brandy4 7,for flavouring sweet dishes47 ,fill any sized wide-necked bottle lightly with the very thin rinds of fresh lemons1 and cover them with good brandy2 let them remain for a fortnight or three weeks only1 then strain off the spirit and keep it well corked for use3 a few apricot-kernels blanched and infused with the lemon-rind will give it an agreeable flavour4 ,,dried ,,mushrooms4 ,peel small1 sound1 freshly-gathered flaps1 cut off the stems1 and scrape out the fur entirely2 then arrange the mushrooms singly on tins or dishes1 and dry them as gradually as possible in a gentle oven4 ,put them1 when they are done1 into tin canisters1 and store them where they will be secure from damp4 ,french cooks give them a single boil in water1 from which they then are well drained1 and dried1 as usual4 ,when wanted for table1 they should be put into cold gravy1 slowly heated1 and gently simmered1 until they are tender4 ,,mushroom ,,powder4 ,when the mushrooms have been prepared with great nicety1 and dried1 as in the foregoing receipt1 pound them to a very fine powder2 sift it1 and put it immediately into small and perfectly dry bottles2 cork and seal them without delay1 for if the powder be long exposed to the air1 so as to imbibe any humidity1 or if it be not well secured from it in the bottles1 it will be likely to become putrid3 much of that which is purchased1 even at the best ,italian warehouses1 is found to be so1 and1 as it is sold at a very high price1 it is a great economy1 as well as a surer plan1 to have it carefully prepared at home4 ,it is an exceedingly useful store1 and an excellent addition to many dishes and sauces4 ,to insure its being good1 the mushrooms should be gathered in dry weather1 and if any addition of spices be made to the powder 7some persons mix with it a seasoning of mace and cayenne71 they should be put into the oven for a while before they are used3 but even these precautions will not be sufficient1 unless the powder be stored in a very dry place after it is bottled4 ,a teaspoonful of it1 with a quarter of a pint of strong veal gravy1 as much cream1 and a small dessertspoonful of flour1 will make a good bchamel or white sauce4 ,,excellent ,,potato ,,flour1 ,,or ,,arrow-,,root4 7,fecule de ,pommes de terre47 ,grate into a large vessel full of cold water1 six pounds of sound mealy potatoes1 and stir them well together4 ,in six hours pour off the water1 and add fresh1 stirring the mixture well2 repeat this process every three or four hours during the day1 change the water at night1 and the next morning pour it off2 put two or three quarts more to the potatoes1 and turn them directly into a hair-sieve1 set over a pan to receive the flour1 which may then be washed through the sieve1 by pouring water to it4 ,let it settle in the pan1 drain off the water1 spread the potato-sediment on dishes1 dry it in a slow oven1 sift it1 and put it into bottles or jars1 and cork or cover them closely4 ,the flour thus made will be beautifully white1 and perfectly flavourless4 ,it will remain good for years4 ,obs4--,this admirable farina1 or starch of potatoes1 is now much more widely known and vended in ,england than it was some years since4 ,it can at present be procured at most foreign warehouses and general grocers'2 but we would recommend its being home-made by the directions given above1 which we have had closely followed for many years with the best possible success4 ,,to ,,make ,,flour ,,of ,,rice4 ,take any quantity of whole rice1 wash it thoroughly1 changing the water several times2 drain and press it in a cloth1 then spread it on a dish1 and dry it perfectly2 beat it in a mortar to a smooth powder1 and sift it through a fine sieve4 ,when used to thicken soup or sauces1 mix it with a small quantity of cold water or of broth1 and pour it to them while they are boiling4 ,this flour1 when newly made1 is of much purer flavour than any usually prepared for sale4 ,,powder ,,of ,,savoury ,,herbs4 ,all herbs which are to be dried for storing should be gathered in fine weather2 cleared from dirt and decayed leaves2 and dried quickly1 but without scorching1 in a ,dutch oven before the fire1 or in any other that is not too much heated4 ,the leaves should then be stripped from the stalks1 pounded1 sifted1 and closely corked in separate bottles2 or several kinds may be mixed and pounded together for the convenience of seasoning in an instant gravies1 soups1 forcemeats1 and made dishes3 appropriate spices1 celery-seed1 and dried lemon-peel1 all in fine powder1 can be added to the herbs4 ,,tartar ,,mustard4 ,rub four ounces of the best ,durham mustard very smooth with a full teaspoonful of salt1 and wet it by degrees with strong horseradish vinegar1 a dessertspoonful of cayenne1 or of chili vinegar1 and one or two of tarragon vinegar when its flavour is not disliked4 ,a quarter of a pint of vinegar poured boiling upon an ounce of scraped horseradish1 and left for one night1 closely covered1 will be ready to use for this mustard1 but it will be better for standing two or three days4 ,durham mustard1 #d oz42 salt1 large teaspoonful2 cayenne1 or chili vinegar1 #a dessertspoonful2 horseradish vinegar1 third of pint4 ,obs4--,this is an exceedingly pungent compound1 but has many approvers4 ,,another ,,tartar ,,mustard4 ,mix the salt and mustard smoothly1 with equal parts of horseradish vinegar1 and of chili vinegar4 ,mustard made by these receipts will keep long1 if put into jars or bottles and closely corked4 ,cucumber1 eschalot1 or any other of the flavoured vinegars for which we have given receipts1 may in turn be used for it1 and mushroom1 gherkin1 or ,india pickle-liquor1 likewise4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,chapter ,,viii4 ,forcemeats4 ,,general ,,remarks4 ,illustration3 ,weighing ,machine4 ,,the coarse and unpalatable compounds so constantly met with under the denomination of forcemeat1 even at tables otherwise tolerably well served1 show with how little attention they are commonly prepared4 ,many very indifferent cooks pique themselves on never doing any thing by rule1 and the consequence of their throwing together at random 7or 8by guess0 as they call it7 the ingredients which ought to be proportioned with exceeding exactness is repeated failure in all they attempt to do4 ,long experience1 and a very correct eye may1 it is true1 enable a person to dispense with weights and measures without hazarding the success of their operations2 but it is an experiment which the learner will do better to avoid4 ,a large marble or ,wedgwood mortar is indispensable in making all the finer kinds of forcemeat2 and equally so indeed for many other purposes in cookery2 no kitchen1 therefore1 should be without one2#fg and for whatever preparation it may be used1 the pounding should be continued with patience and perseverance until not a single lump or fibre be perceptible in the mass of the articles beaten together4 ,this particularly applies to potted meats1 which should resemble the smoothest paste2 as well as to several varieties of forcemeat4 ,of these last it should be observed1 that such as are made by the ,french method 7see quenelles1 page #afc7 are the most appropriate for an elegant dinner1 either to serve in soups or to fill boned poultry of any kind2 but when their exceeding lightness1 which to foreigners constitutes one of their great excellences1 is objected to1 it may be remedied by substituting dry crumbs of bread for the panada1 and pounding a small quantity of the lean of a boiled ham1 with the other ingredients3 however1 this should be done only for the balls4 ,footnote #fg3 ,two or three mortars1 varying in size1 should be in every household where it is expected that the cookery should be well conducted3 they are often required also for many other domestic purposes1 yet it is not unusual to find both these and scales1 weights1 and measures of every kind1 altogether wanting in ,english kitchens4 ,no particular herb or spice should be allowed to predominate powerfully in these compositions2 but the whole of the seasonings should be taken in such quantity only as will produce an agreeable savour when they are blended together4 ,,no4 #a4 ,,good ,,common ,,forcemeat1 ,,for ,,roast ,,veal1 ,,turkeys1 ,c4 ,grate very lightly into exceedingly fine crumbs1 four ounces of the inside of a stale loaf1 and mix thoroughly with it1 a quarter of an ounce of lemon-rind pared as thin as possible1 and minced extremely small2 the same quantity of savoury herbs1 of which two-thirds should be parsley1 and one-third thyme1 likewise finely minced1 a little grated nutmeg1 a half teaspoonful of salt1 and as much common pepper or cayenne as will season the forcemeat sufficiently4 ,break into these1 two ounces of good butter in very small bits1 add the unbeaten yolk of one egg1 and with the fingers work the whole well together until it is smoothly mixed4 ,it is usual to chop the lemon-rind1 but we prefer it lightly grated on a fine grater4 ,it should always be fresh for the purpose1 or it will be likely to impart a very unpleasant flavour to the forcemeat4 ,half the rind of a moderate-sized lemon will be sufficient for this quantity2 which for a large turkey must be increased one-half4 ,bread-crumbs1 #d oz42 lemon-rind1 #a_/d oz4 7or grated rind of #a_/b lemon72 mixed savoury herbs1 minced1 #a_/d oz42 salt1 #a_/b teaspoonful2 pepper1 #a_/d to #a_/c of teaspoonful2 butter1 #b oz42 yolk1 #a egg4 ,obs4--,this1 to our taste1 is a much nicer and more delicate forcemeat than that which is made with suet1 and we would recommend it for trial in preference4 ,any variety of herb or spice may be used to give it flavour1 and a little minced onion or eschalot can be added to it also2 but these last do not appear to us suited to the meats for which the forcemeat is more particularly intended4 ,half an ounce of the butter may be omitted on ordinary occasions3 and a portion of marjoram or of sweet basil may take the place of part of the thyme and parsley when preferred to them4 ,,no4 #b4 ,,another ,,good ,,common ,,forcemeat4 ,add to four ounces of bread-crumbs two of the lean of a boiled ham1 quite free from sinew1 and very finely minced2 two of good butter1 a dessertspoonful of herbs1 chopped small1 some lemon-grate1 nutmeg1 a little salt1 a good seasoning of pepper or cayenne and one whole egg1 or the yolks of two4 ,this may be fried in balls of moderate size1 for five minutes1 to serve with roast veal1 or it may be put into the joint in the usual way4 ,bread-crumbs1 #d oz42 lean of ham1 #b oz42 butter1 #b oz42 minced herbs1 #a dessertspoonful2 lemon-grate1 #a teaspoonful2 nutmeg1 mace1 and cayenne1 together1 #a small teaspoonful2 little salt2 #a whole egg1 or yolks of #b4 ,,no4 #c4 ,,superior ,,suet ,,forcemeat1 ,,for ,,veal1 ,,turkeys1 ,c4 ,mix well together six ounces of fine stale crumbs1 with an equal weight of beef-kidney suet1 chopped extremely small1 a large dessertspoonful of parsley1 mixed with a little lemon-thyme1 a teaspoonful of salt1 a quarter one of cayenne1 and a saltspoonful or rather more of mace and nutmeg together2 work these up with three unbeaten egg-yolks1 and three teaspoonsful of milk2 then put the forcemeat into a large mortar1 and pound it perfectly smooth4 ,take it out1 and let it remain in a cool place for half an hour at least before it is used2 then roll it into balls1 if it be wanted to serve in that form2 flour and fry them gently from seven to eight minutes1 and dry them well before they are dished4 ,beef suet finely minced1 #f oz42 bread-crumbs1 #f oz42 parsley1 mixed with little thyme1 #a large dessertspoonful2 salt1 #a teaspoonful2 mace1 large saltspoonful1 and one fourth as much cayenne2 unbeaten egg-yolks1 #c2 milk1 #c teaspoonsful3 well pounded4 ,fried in balls1 #g to #h minutes1 or poached1 #f to #g4 ,obs4--,the finely grated rind of half a lemon can be added to this forcemeat at pleasure2 and for some purposes a morsel of garlic1 or three or four minced eschalots1 may be mixed with it before it is put into the mortar4 ,,no4 #d4 ,,common ,,suet ,,forcemeat4 ,beef suet is commonly used in the composition of this kind of forcemeat1 but we think that veal-kidney suet1 when it could be obtained1 would have a better effect2 though the reader will easily comprehend that it is scarcely possible for us to have every variety of every receipt which we insert put to the test2 in some cases we are compelled merely to suggest what appear to us likely to be improvements4 ,strip carefully every morsel of skin from the suet1 and mince it small2 to six ounces add eight of bread-crumbs1 with the same proportion of herbs1 spice1 salt1 and lemon-peel1 as in the foregoing receipt1 and a couple of whole eggs1 which should be very slightly beaten1 after the specks have been taken out with the point of a small fork4 ,should more liquid be required1 the yolk of another egg1 or a spoonful or two of milk1 may be used4 ,half this quantity will be sufficient for a small joint of veal1 or for a dozen balls1 which1 when it is more convenient to serve it in that form1 may be fried or browned beneath the roast1 and then dished round it1 though this last is not a very refined mode of dressing them4 ,from eight to ten minutes will fry them well4 ,,no4 #e4 ,,oyster ,,forcemeat4 ,open carefully a dozen of fine plump natives1 take off the beards1 strain their liquor1 and rinse the oysters in it4 ,grate four ounces of the crumb of a stale loaf into fine light crumbs1 mince the oysters but not too small1 and mix them with the bread2 add an ounce and a half of good butter broken into minute bits1 the grated rind of half a small lemon1 a small saltspoonful of pounded mace1 some cayenne1 a little salt1 and a large teaspoonful of parsley4 ,mingle these ingredients well1 and work them together with the unbeaten yolk of one egg and a little of the oyster liquor1 the remainder of which can be added to the sauce which usually accompanies this forcemeat4 ,oysters1 #a dozen2 bread-crumbs1 #d oz42 butter1 #a-a_/b oz42 rind #a_/b small lemon2 mace1 #a saltspoonful2 some cayenne and salt2 minced parsley1 #a large teaspoonful2 yolk #a egg2 oyster-liquor1 #a dessertspoonful3 rolled into balls1 and fried from #g to #aj minutes1 or poached from #e to #f minutes4 ,obs4 #a4--;,in this preparation the flavour of the oysters should prevail entirely over that of all the other ingredients which are mixed with them4 ,obs4 #b4--,the oyster-sausages of ,chapter ,,iii4 will serve excellently for forcemeat also4 ,,no4 #f4 ,a ,,finer ,,oyster ,,forcemeat4 ,pound the preceding forcemeat to the smoothest paste1 with the addition only of half an ounce of fresh butter1 should it be sufficiently dry to allow of it4 ,it is remarkably good when thus prepared1 and may be poached or fried in balls for soups or made dishes1 or used to fill boned fowls1 or the breasts of boiled turkeys with equally good effect4 ,,no4 #g4 ,,mushroom ,,forcemeat4 ,cut closely off the stems of some small1 just-opened mushrooms1 peel them1 and take out the fur4 ,dissolve an ounce and a half of good butter in a saucepan1 throw them into it with a little cayenne and a slight sprinkling of mace1 and stew them softly1 keeping them well shaken1 from five to seven minutes2 then turn them into a dish1 spread them over it1 and raise one end1 that the liquid may drain from them4 ,when they are quite cold1 mince1 and then mix them with four ounces of fine bread-crumbs1 an ounce and a half of good butter1 and part of that in which they were stewed should the forcemeat appear too moist to admit of the whole1 as the yolk of one egg1 at the least1 must be added1 to bind the ingredients together2 strew in a saltspoonful of salt1 a third as much of cayenne1 and about the same quantity of mace and nutmeg1 with a teaspoonful of grated lemon-rind4 ,the seasonings must be rather sparingly used1 that the flavour of the mushrooms may not be overpowered by them4 ,mix the whole thoroughly with the unbeaten yolk of one egg1 or of two1 and use the forcemeat poached in small balls for soup1 or fried and served in the dish with roast fowls1 or round minced veal2 or to fill boiled fowls1 partridges1 or turkeys4 ,small mushrooms1 peeled and trimmed1 #d oz42 butter #a-a_/b oz42 slight sprinkling mace and cayenne3 #e to #g minutes4 ,mushrooms minced2 bread-crumbs1 #d oz42 butter1 #a-a_/b oz4 7with part of that used in the stewing72 salt1 #a saltspoonful2 third as much of cayenne1 of mace1 and of nutmeg2 grated lemon-rind1 #a teaspoonful2 yolk of #a or #b eggs4 ,in balls1 poached1 #e to #f minutes2 fried1 #f to #h minutes4 ,obs4--,this1 like most other forcemeats1 is improved by being well beaten in a large mortar after it is entirely mixed4 ,,no4 #h4 ,,forcemeat ,,for ,,hare4 ,the first receipt of this chapter will be found very good for hare without any variation2 but the liver boiled for three minutes and finely minced1 may be added to it when it is thought an improvement3 another half ounce of butter1 and a small portion more of egg will then be required4 ,a couple of ounces of rasped bacon1 and a glass of port-wine1 are sometimes recommended for this forcemeat1 but we think it is better without them1 especially when slices of bacon are used to line the hare4 ,a flavouring of minced onion or eschalot can be added when the taste is in its favour2 or the forcemeat ,no4 #c may be substituted for this altogether4 ,,no4 #i4 ,,onion ,,and ,,sage ,,stuffing1 ,,for ,,pork1 ,,geese1 ,,or ,,ducks4 ,boil three large onions from ten to fifteen minutes1 press the water from them1 chop them small1 and mix with them an equal quantity of bread-crumbs1 a heaped tablespoonful of minced sage1 an ounce of butter1 a half saltspoonful of pepper1 and twice as much of salt1 and put them into the body of the goose2 part of the liver boiled for two or three minutes and shred fine1 is sometimes added to these1 and the whole is bound together with the yolk of one egg or two2 but they are quite as frequently served without4 ,the onions can be used raw1 when their very strong flavour is not objected to1 but the odour of the whole dish will then be somewhat overpowering4 ,large onions1 #c2 boiled #bj to #cj minutes4 ,sage1 #b to #c dessertspoonsful 7or #a_/b to #c_/d oz472 butter1 #a oz42 pepper1 #a_/b teaspoonful2 salt1 #a teaspoonful4 ,the body of a goose is sometimes entirely filled with mashed potatoes1 seasoned with salt and pepper only2 or mixed with a small quantity of eschalot1 onion1 or herb-seasonings4 ,,no4 #aj4 ,,mr4 ,,cooke',s ,,forcemeat ,,for ,,ducks ,,or ,,geese4 ,two parts of chopped onion1 two parts of bread-crumbs1 three of butter1 one of pounded sage1 and a seasoning of pepper and salt4 ,this receipt we have not proved4 ,,no4 #aa4 ,,forcemeat ,,balls ,,for ,,mock ,,turtle ,,soups4 ,the ,french forcemeat1 ,no4 #ag of the present ,chapter1 is the most refined and appropriate forcemeat to serve in mock turtle1 but a more solid and highly seasoned one is usually added to it in this country4 ,in very common cookery the ingredients are merely chopped small and mixed together with a moistening of eggs2 but when the trouble of pounding and blending them properly is objected to1 we would recommend the common veal forcemeat ,no4 #a1 in preference2 as the undressed veal and suet1 when merely minced1 do not produce a good effect4 ,four ounces each of these1 with an ounce or so of the lean of a boiled ham1 and three ounces of bread-crumbs1 a large dessertspoonful of minced parsley1 a small portion of thyme or marjoram1 a saltspoonful of white pepper1 twice as much or more of salt1 a little cayenne1 half a small nutmeg1 and a couple of eggs1 well mixed with a fork first to separate the meat1 and after the moistening is added1 with the fingers1 then rolled into balls1 and boiled in a little soup for twelve minutes1 is the manner in which it is prepared2 but the reader will find the following receipt very superior to it3--,rasp1 that is to say1 scrape with a knife clear from the fibre1 four ounces of veal1 which should be cut into thick slices1 and taken quite free from skin and fat2 chop it fine1 and then pound it as smoothly as possible in a large mortar1 with three ounces of the rasped fat of an unboiled ham of good flavour or of the finest bacon1 and one of butter1 two ounces of bread-crumbs1 a tablespoonful of the lean of a boiled ham1 should it be at hand1 a good seasoning of cayenne1 nutmeg1 and mace1 mixed together1 a heaped dessertspoonful of minced herbs1 and the yolks of two eggs2 poach a small bit when it is mixed1 and add any further seasoning it may require2 and when it is of good flavour1 roll it into balls of moderate size1 and boil them twelve minutes2 then drain and drop them into the soup4 ,no forcemeat should be boiled in the soup itself1 on account of the fat which would escape from it in the process2 a little stock should be reserved for the purpose4 ,very common3--,lean of neck of veal1 #d oz42 beef-kidney suet1 #d oz41 both finely chopped2 bread-crumbs1 #c oz42 minced parsley1 large dessertspoonful2 thyme or marjoram1 small teaspoonful2 lean of boiled ham1 #a to #b oz42 white pepper1 #a saltspoonful2 salt1 twice as much2 #a_/b small nutmeg2 eggs1 #b3 in balls1 #ab minutes4 ,better forcemeat3--,lean veal rasped1 #d oz42 fat of unboiled ham1 or finest bacon1 #c oz2 butter1 #a oz42 bread-crumbs1 #b oz42 lean of boiled ham1 minced1 #a large tablespoonful2 minced herbs1 #a heaped dessertspoonful2 full seasoning of mace1 nutmeg1 and cayenne1 mixed2 yolks of eggs1 #b3 #ab minutes4 ,,no4 #ab4 ,,egg ,,balls4 ,boil four or five new-laid eggs for ten or twelve minutes1 and lay them into fresh water until they are cold4 ,take out the yolks1 and pound them smoothly with the beaten yolk of one raw egg1 or more1 if required2 add a little salt and cayenne1 roll the mixture into balls the size of marbles1 and boil them for two minutes4 ,half a teaspoonful of flour is sometimes worked up with the eggs4 ,hard yolks of eggs1 #d2 #a raw2 little salt and cayenne3 #b minutes4 ,,no4 #ac4 ,,brain ,,cakes4 ,wash and soak the brains well in cold water1 and afterwards in hot2 free them from the skin and large fibres1 and boil them in water1 slightly salted1 from two to three minutes2 beat them up with a teaspoonful of sage very finely chopped1 or with equal parts of sage and parsley1 half a teaspoonful or rather more of salt1 half as much mace1 a little white pepper or cayenne1 and one egg2 drop them in small cakes into the pan1 and fry them in butter a fine light brown3 two yolks of eggs will make the cakes more delicate than the white and yolk of one4 ,a teaspoonful of flour and a little lemon-grate are sometimes added4 ,,no4 #ad4 ,,another ,,receipt ,,for ,,brain ,,cakes4 ,boil the brains in a little good veal gravy very gently for ten minutes2 drain them on a sieve1 and when cold cut them into thick dice2 dip them into beaten yolk of egg1 and then into very fine bread-crumbs1 mixed with salt1 pounded spices1 and fine herbs minced extremely small2 fry them of a light brown1 drain and dry them well1 and drop them into the soup or hash after it is dished4 ,when broth or gravy is not at hand1 the brains may be boiled in water4 ,,no4 #ae4 ,,chestnut ,,forcemeat4 ,strip the outer skin from some fine sound chestnuts1 then throw them into a saucepan of hot water1 and set them over the fire for a minute or two1 when they may easily be blanched like almonds4 ,put them into cold water as they are peeled4 ,dry them in a cloth1 and weigh them4 ,stew six ounces of them very gently from fifteen to twenty minutes1 in just sufficient strong veal gravy to cover them4 ,take them up1 drain them on a sieve1 and when cold pound them perfectly smooth with half their weight of the nicest bacon rasped clear from all rust or fibre1 or with an equal quantity of fresh butter1 two ounces of dry bread-crumbs1 a small teaspoonful of grated lemon rind1 one of salt1 half as much mace or nutmeg1 a moderate quantity of cayenne1 and the unbeaten yolks of two or of three eggs4 ,this mixture makes most excellent forcemeat cakes1 which must be moulded with a knife1 a spoon1 or the fingers1 dipped in flour2 more should be dredged over1 and pressed upon them1 and they should be slowly fried from ten to fifteen minutes4 ,chestnuts1 #f oz42 veal gravy1 #a_/c of a pint3 #ae to #bj minutes4 ,bacon or butter1 #c oz42 bread-crumbs1 #b oz42 lemon-peel and salt1 #a teaspoonful each4 ,,no4 #af4 ,,an ,,excellent ,,french ,,forcemeat4 ,take six ounces of veal free from fat and skin1 cut it into dice and put it into a saucepan with two ounces of butter1 a large teaspoonful of parsley finely minced1 half as much thyme1 salt1 and grated lemon-rind1 and a sufficient seasoning of nutmeg1 cayenne1 and mace1 to flavour it pleasantly4 ,stew these very gently from twelve to fifteen minutes1 then lift out the veal and put into the saucepan two ounces of bread-crumbs2 let them simmer until they have absorbed the gravy yielded by the meat2 keep them stirred until they are as dry as possible2 beat the yolk of an egg to them while they are hot1 and set them aside to cool4 ,mince and pound the veal1 add the bread to it as soon as it is cold1 beat them well together1 with an ounce and a half of fresh butter1 and two of the finest bacon1 quite freed from rust1 and scraped clear of skin and fibre2 put to them the yolks of two small eggs and mix them well2 then take the forcemeat from the mortar1 and set it in a very cool place until it is wanted for use4 ,veal1 #f oz42 butter1 #b oz42 minced parsley1 #a teaspoonful2 thyme1 salt1 and lemon-peel1 each #a_/b teaspoonful2 little nutmeg1 cayenne1 and mace3 #ab to #ae minutes4 ,bread-crumbs1 #b oz42 butter1 #a-a_/b oz42 rasped bacon1 #b oz42 yolk of eggs1 #b to #c4 ,obs4--,when this forcemeat is intended to fill boned fowls1 the livers of two or three boiled for four minutes1 or stewed with the veal for the same length of time1 then minced and pounded with the other ingredients1 will be found a great improvement2 and1 if mushrooms can be procured1 two tablespoonsful of them chopped small1 should be stewed and beaten with it also4 ,a small portion of the best end of the neck will afford the quantity of lean required for this receipt1 and the remains of it will make excellent gravy4 ,,no4 #ag4 ,,french ,,forcemeat ,,called ,,quenelles4 ,this is a peculiarly light and delicate kind of forcemeat1 which by good ,french cooks is compounded with exceeding care4 ,it is served abroad in a variety of forms1 and is made of very finely-grained white veal1 or of the undressed flesh of poultry1 or of rabbits1 rasped quite free from sinew1 then chopped and pounded to the finest paste1 first by itself1 and afterwards with an equal quantity of boiled calf's udder or of butter1 and of panada1 which is but another name for bread soaked in cream or gravy and then dried over the fire until it forms a sort of paste4 ,as the three ingredients should be equal in volume1 not in weight1 they are each rolled into a separate ball before they are mixed1 that their size may be determined by the eye4 ,when the fat of the fillet of veal 7which in ,england is not often divided for sale1 as it is in ,france7 is not to be procured1 a rather less proportion of butter will serve in its stead4 ,the following will be found a very good1 and not a troublesome receipt for veal forcemeat of this kind4 ,rasp quite clear from sinew1 after the fat and skin have been entirely cleared from it1 four ounces of the finest veal2 chop1 and pound it well3 if it be carefully prepared there will be no necessity for passing it through a sieve1 but this should otherwise be done4 ,soak in a small saucepan two ounces of the crumb of a stale loaf in a little rich but pale veal gravy or white sauce2 then press and drain as much as possible of the moisture from it1 and stir it over a gentle fire until it is as dry as it will become without burning3 it will adhere in a ball to the spoon1 and leave the saucepan quite dry when it is sufficiently done4 ,mix with it1 while it is still hot1 the yolk of one egg1 and when it is quite cold1 add it to the veal with three ounces of very fresh butter1 a quarter of a teaspoonful of mace1 half as much cayenne1 a little nutmeg1 and a saltspoonful of salt4 ,when these are perfectly beaten and well blended together1 add another whole egg after having merely taken out the specks3 the mixture will then be ready for use1 and may be moulded into balls1 or small thick oval shapes a little flattened1 and poached in soup or gravy from ten to fifteen minutes4 ,these quenelles may be served by themselves in a rich sauce as a corner dish1 or in conjunction with other things4 ,they may likewise be first poached for three or four minutes1 and left on a drainer to become cold2 then dipped into egg and the finest bread-crumbs and fried1 and served as croquettes4 ,,no4 #ah4 ,,forcemeat ,,for ,,raised ,,and ,,other ,,cold ,,pies4 ,the very finest sausage-meat highly seasoned1 and made with an equal proportion of fat and lean1 is an exceedingly good forcemeat for veal1 chicken1 rabbit1 and some few other pies2 savoury herbs minced small may be added to heighten its flavour if it be intended for immediate eating2 but it will not then remain good quite so long1 unless they should have been previously dried4 ,to prevent its being too dry1 two or three spoonsful of cold water should be mixed with it before it is put into the pie4 ,one pound of lean veal to one and a quarter of the pork-fat is sometimes used1 and smoothly pounded with a high seasoning of spices1 herbs1 and eschalots1 or garlic2 but we cannot recommend the introduction of these last into pies unless they are especially ordered3 mushrooms or truffles may be mixed with any kind of forcemeat with far better effect4 ,equal parts of veal and fat bacon1 will also make a good forcemeat for pies1 if chopped finely1 and well spiced4 ,sausage-meat1 well seasoned4 ,or3 veal1 #a lb42 pork-fat1 #a-a_/b lb42 salt1 #a oz42 pepper1 #a_/d to #a_/b oz42 fine herbs1 spice1 c41 as in forcemeat ,no4 #a1 or sausage-meat4 ,or3 veal and bacon1 equal weight1 seasoned in the same way4 ,,panada4 ,this is the name given to the soaked bread which is mixed with the ,french forcemeats1 and which renders them so peculiarly delicate4 ,pour on the crumb of two or three rolls1 or on that of any other very light bread1 as much good boiling broth1 milk1 or cream1 as will cover and moisten it well2 put a plate over to keep in the steam1 and let it remain for half an hour1 or more2 then drain off the superfluous liquid1 and squeeze the panada dry by wringing it in a thin cloth into a ball2 put it into a small stewpan or enamelled saucepan1 and pour to it as much only of rich white sauce or of gravy as it can easily absorb1 and stir it constantly with a wooden spoon over a clear and gentle fire1 until it forms a very dry paste and adheres in a mass to the spoon2 when it is in this state1 mix with it thoroughly the unbeaten yolks of two fresh eggs1 which will give it firmness1 and set it aside to become quite cold before it is put into the mortar4 ,the best ,french cooks give the highest degree of savour that they can to this panada1 and add no other seasoning to the forcemeats of which it forms a part3 it is used in an equal proportion with the meat1 and with the calf's udder or butter of which they are composed1 as we have shown in the preceding receipt for quenelles4 ,they stew slowly for the purpose1 a small bit of lean ham1 two or three minced eschalots1 a bay-leaf1 a few mushrooms1 a little parsley1 a clove or two1 and a small blade of mace in a little good butter1 and when they are sufficiently browned1 pour to them as much broth or gravy as will be needed for the panada2 and when this has simmered from twenty to thirty minutes1 so as to have acquired the proper flavour without being much reduced1 they strain it over1 and boil it into the bread4 ,the common course of cookery in an ,english kitchen does not often require the practice of the greater niceties and refinements of the art3 and trouble 7of which the ,french appear to be perfectly regardless when the excellence of their preparations is concerned7 is there in general so much thought of1 and exclaimed against1 that a more summary process would probably meet with a better chance of success4 ,a quicker and rougher mode of making the panada1 and indeed the forcemeat altogether1 is to pour strong veal broth or gravy upon it1 and after it has soaked1 to boil it dry1 without any addition except that of a little fine spice1 lemon-grate1 or any other favourite ,english seasoning4 ,minced herbs1 salt1 cayenne1 and mace1 may be beaten with the meat1 to which a small portion of well-pounded ham may likewise be added at pleasure4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,chapter ,,ix4 ,boiling1 ,roasting1 etc4 ,a ,,thorough practical knowledge of the processes described in the present chapter will form a really good cook far sooner and more completely than any array of mere receipts can do1 however minutely they may be explained2 they should1 therefore1 be well studied and comprehended1 before any attempt is made to compound difficult dishes2 and the principles of roasting1 boiling1 stewing1 and baking1 at least1 ought to be clearly understood by every servant who undertakes the duties of what is called plain cookery1 which is1 in fact1 of more importance than any other1 because it is in almost universal request in this country for families of moderate fortune2 and any person who excels in it will easily become expert in what are considered the higher branches of the art4 ,in a vast number of ,english kitchens the cookery fails from the hurried manner in which it is conducted1 and from the excess of heat produced by the enormous coal-fires constantly kept burning there at all seasons1 without which ignorant servants imagine no dinner can be properly cooked2 a mistake which cannot fail quickly to become apparent to the most inexperienced reader who will give a patient trial to the slow methods of cooking recommended in the following pages4 ,these will be found to combine exceeding economy in the consumption of fuel1 with a degree of superiority in the food prepared by them1 which would scarcely be credited unless it were put to the test4 ,in stewing1 and baking in closely covered vessels1 this superiority is more particularly remarkable2 and we would willingly give a far larger space to so useful a subject than our limits will permit3 we are1 however1 compelled1 though with regret1 to restrict ourselves to such details as we have now supplied in various parts of this volume4 ,,to ,,boil ,,meat4 ,illustration3 ,iron ,boiler4 ,boiling1 in the usual ,english manner1 is the least advantageous of all modes of cooking meat1 because a large portion of the nourishment which it contains is withdrawn from it in the process1 and it is usually very insipid in flavour4 ,we have already given1 at the commencement of ,chapter ,i41 the substance of ,liebeg's instructions for scientific boiling2 but for the convenience of the reader1 we will briefly recapitulate them here1 with such additions as our own observation has enabled us to supply4 ,in making soup1 gravy1 or savoury jelly of any kind1 the principal object is to extract from the meat used for the preparation1 all the nutriment and savour which it can be made to yield4 ,this is effected by putting it into cold water1 and heating it very slowly indeed1 and then keeping it for a specified time at the point of boiling1 or letting it simmer in the gentlest manner2 but when the meat itself is required for food1 its nutritious juices must be prevented from escaping as much as possible1 which is done by plunging it into fast boiling water for a few minutes1 to contract the pores of the surface 7to harden it1 in fact71 and adding immediately afterwards as much cold water as will reduce the whole to a moderate temperature4 ,part of the water should then be taken away1 as meat should never be cooked in a larger quantity than is absolutely needed to keep it entirely covered until it is ready to serve2 for this reason it should be always boiled in a vessel nearly of its own size4 ,large joints should be neatly trimmed1 washed extremely clean1 and skewered or bound firmly into good shape1 when they are of a nature to require it2 brought to boil over a moderate fire1 and simmered until they are done1 the scum being carefully and entirely cleared from the surface of the water1 as it gathers there1 which will be principally from within a few minutes of its beginning to boil1 and during a few minutes afterwards4 ,if not thoroughly skimmed off at the proper time1 it will sink1 and adhere to the joint1 giving it a very uninviting appearance4 ,pickled or salted meat requires longer boiling than fresh2 and that which is smoked and dried longer still3 this last should always be laid into cold water1 slowly heated1 and if1 from any circumstances1 time cannot have been allowed for soaking it properly and there is a probability of its being too salt when served1 it should be brought very softly to boil in a large quantity of water1 which should in part be changed as soon as it becomes quite briny1 for as much more that is ready boiling4 ,it is customary to lay rounds of beef1 and other large joints1 upon a fish-plate1 or to throw some wooden skewers under them1 to prevent their sticking to the vessel in which they are cooked2 and it is as well to take the precaution1 though unless they be placed over a very fierce fire1 they cannot be in danger of this4 ,the time allowed for them is about the same as for roasting1 from fifteen to twenty minutes to the pound4 ,for cooking rounds of beef1 and other ponderous joints1 a pan of this form is very convenient4 ,illustration3 ,large ,stock-pot4 ,by means of two almost equally expensive preparations1 called a pole1 and a blanc1 the insipidity which results from boiling meat or vegetables in water only may be removed1 and the whiteness of either will be better preserved4 ,turkeys1 fowls1 sweetbreads1 calf's brains1 cauliflowers1 and artichoke bottoms1 are the articles for which the pole and the blanc are more especially used in expensive foreign cookery3 the reader will judge by the following receipts how far they are admissible into that of the economist4 ,,po,l,e4 ,cut into large dice two pounds of lean veal1 and two pounds of fat bacon cured without saltpetre1 two large carrots1 and two onions2 to these add half a pound of fresh butter1 put the whole into a stewpan1 and stir it with a wooden spoon over a gentle fire until the veal is very white1 and the bacon is partially melted2 then pour to them three pints of clear boiling broth or water1 throw in four cloves1 a small bunch or two of thyme and parsley1 a bay-leaf1 and a few corns of white pepper2 boil these gently for an hour and a half1 then strain the pole through a fine sieve1 and set it by in a cool place4 ,use it instead of water for boiling the various articles we have already named3 it will answer for several in succession1 and will remain good for many days4 ,some cooks order a pound of butter in addition to the bacon1 and others substitute beef-suet in part for this last4 ,a ,,blanc4 ,put into a stewpan one pound of fat bacon rasped1 one pound of beef-suet cut small1 and one pound of butter2 the strained juice of two lemons1 a couple of bay-leaves1 three cloves1 three carrots1 and three onions divided into dice1 and less than half a pint of water4 ,simmer these gently1 keeping them often stirred1 until the fat is well melted1 and the water has evaporated2 then pour in rather more than will be required for the dish which is to be cooked in the blanc2 boil it softly until all the ingredients have given out their full flavour1 skim it well1 add salt if needed1 and strain it off for use4 ,a calf's head is often boiled in this4 ,,roasting4 ,illustration3 ,bottle ,jack4#fh ,footnote #fh3 ,the bottle-jack is wound up like a watch1 by means of a key1 and turns very regularly until it has run down4 ,roasting1 which is quite the favourite mode of dressing meat in this country1 and one in which the ,english are thought to excel1 requires unremitting attention on the part of the cook rather than any great exertion of skill4 ,large kitchens are usually fitted with a smoke-jack1 by means of which several spits if needful can be kept turning at the same time2 but in small establishments1 a roaster which allows of some economy in point of fuel is more commonly used4 ,that shown in the print is of very advantageous construction in this respect1 as a joint may be cooked in it with a comparatively small fire1 the heat being strongly reflected from the screen upon the meat3 in consequence of this1 it should never be placed very close to the grate1 as the surface of the joint would then become dry and hard4 ,illustration3 ,improved ,spring ,jack4 ,a more convenient form of roaster1 with a spit placed horizontally1 and turned by means of a wheel and chain1 of which the movement is regulated by a spring contained in a box at the top1 is of the same economical order as the one above2 but eaters of very delicate taste urge1 as an objection to this apparatus1 as well as to that shown above1 that the meat cooked in either1 derives from the tin by which it is closely surrounded1 the flavour of baked meat4 ,the bottle-jack1 with a common roasting-screen containing shelves for warming plates and dishes1 and other purposes1 is not liable to the same objection4 ,to roast well with it 7or with a smoke-jack71 make up a fire proportioned in width and height to the joint which is to be roasted1 and which it should surpass in dimensions every way1 by two or three inches4 ,place some moderate-sized lumps of coal on the top2 let it be free from smoke and ashes in front2 and so compactly arranged that it will neither require to be disturbed1 nor supplied with fresh fuel1 for some considerable time after the meat is laid down4 ,spit or suspend the joint1 and place it very far from the fire at first2 keep it constantly basted1 and when it is two parts done1 move it nearer to the fire that it may be properly browned2 but guard carefully against its being burned4 ,a few minutes before it is taken from the spit1 sprinkle a little fine salt over it1 baste it thoroughly with its own dripping1 or with butter1 and dredge it with flour3 as soon as the froth is well risen1 dish1 and serve the meat4 ,or1 to avoid the necessity of the frothing which is often greatly objected to on account of the raw taste retained by the flour1 dredge the roast liberally soon after it is first laid to the fire2 the flour will then form a savoury incrustation upon it1 and assist to prevent the escape of its juices4 ,when meat or poultry is wrapped in buttered paper it must not be floured until this is removed1 which should be fifteen or twenty minutes before either is served4 ,baron ,liebeg1 whom we have already so often quoted1 says1 that roasting should be conducted on the same principle as boiling2 and that sufficient heat should be applied to the surface of the meat at once1 to contract the pores and prevent the escape of its juices2 and that the remainder of the process should be slow4 ,when a joint is first laid to the fire1 therefore1 it should be placed for twenty minutes or half an hour sufficiently near to effect this1 without any part1 and the fat especially1 being allowed to acquire more than the slightest colour1 and then drawn back and finished by the directions at the end of this section4 ,the speedy application of very hot basting-fat to every part of the meat1 would probably be attended with the same result as subjecting it to the full action of the fire4 ,it is certain that roasts which are constantly and carefully basted are always very superior to those which are neglected in this respect4 ,remember always to draw back the dripping-pan when the fire has to be stirred1 or when fresh coals are thrown on1 that the cinders and ashes may not fall into it4 ,when meat is very lean1 a slice of butter1 or a small quantity of clarified dripping1 should be melted in the pan to baste it with at first2 though the use of the latter should be scrupulously avoided for poultry1 or any delicate meats1 as the flavour it imparts is to many persons peculiarly objectionable4 ,let the spit be kept bright and clean1 and wipe it before the meat is put on2 balance the joint well upon it1 that it may turn steadily1 and if needful secure it with screw-skewers4 ,a cradle spit1 which is so constructed that it contains the meat in a sort of framework1 instead of passing through it1 may be often very advantageously used instead of an ordinary one1 as the perforation of the meat by this last must always occasion some escape of the juices2 and it is1 moreover1 particularly to be objected to in roasting joints or poultry which have been boned and filled with forcemeat4 ,the cradle spit 7for which see 8,turkey ,boned and ,forced10 ,chapter ,,xiv47 is much better suited to these1 as well as to a sucking pig1 sturgeon1 salmon1 and other large fish2 but it is not very commonly to be found in our kitchens1 many of which exhibit a singular scantiness of the conveniences which assist the labours of the cook4 ,for heavy and substantial joints1 a quarter of an hour is generally allowed for every pound of meat2 and with a sound fire and frequent basting1 will be found sufficient when the process is conducted in the usual manner2 but by the slow method1 as we shall designate it1 almost double the time will be required4 ,pork1 veal1 and lamb1 should always be well roasted2 but many eaters prefer mutton and beef rather underdressed1 though some persons have a strong objection to the sight even of any meat that is not thoroughly cooked4 ,joints which are thin in proportion to their weight1 require less of the fire than thick and solid ones4 ,ribs of beef1 for example1 will be sooner ready to serve than an equal weight of the rump1 round1 or sirloin2 and the neck or shoulder of mutton1 or spare rib of pork1 than the leg4 ,when to preserve the succulence of the meat is more an object than to economise fuel1 beef and mutton should be laid at twice the usual distance from the fire1 after the surface has been thoroughly heated1 as directed by ,liebeg1 and allowed to remain so until they are perfectly heated through2 the roasting1 so managed1 will of course be slow2 and from three hours and a half to four hours will be necessary to cook by this method a leg of mutton of ordinary size1 for which two hours would amply suffice in a common way2 but the flesh will be remarkably tender1 and the flow of gravy from it most abundant4 ,it should not be drawn near the fire until within the last half or three quarters of an hour1 and should then be placed only so close as to brown it properly4 ,no kind of roast indeed should at any time be allowed to take colour too quickly2 it should be heated gradually1 and kept at least at a moderate distance from the fire until it is nearly done1 or the outside will be dry and hard1 if not burned while the inside will be only half cooked4 ,,steaming4 ,illustration3 ,saucepan with ,steamer4 ,illustration ,the application of steam to culinary purposes is becoming very general in our kitchens at the present day1 especially in those of large establishments1 many of which are furnished with apparatus for its use1 so admirably constructed and so complete1 that the process may be conducted on an extensive scale with very slight trouble to the cook2 and with the further advantage of being at a distance from the fire1 the steam being conveyed by pipes to the vessels intended to receive it4 ,fish1 butcher's meat1 poultry1 vegetables1 puddings1 maccaroni1 and rice1 are all subjected to its action1 instead of being immersed in water1 as in simple boiling3 and the result is to many persons perfectly satisfactory2 though1 as there is a difference of opinion amongst first-rate cooks1 with regard to the comparative merits of the two modes of dressing meat and fish1 a trial should be given to the steaming on a small scale1 before any great expenses are incurred for it1 which may be done easily with a common saucepan or boiler1 fitted like the one shown above1 with a simple tin steamer4 ,servants not accustomed to the use of these1 should be warned against boiling in the vessel itself any thing of coarse or strong flavour1 when the article steamed is of a delicate nature4 ,the vapour from soup containing onions1 for example1 would have a very bad effect on a sweet pudding1 and on many other dishes4 ,care and discretion1 therefore1 must be exercised on this point4 ,by means of a kettle fixed over it1 the steam of the boiler in the kitchen range may be made available for cooking1 in the way shown by the engraving1 which exhibits fish1 potatoes1 and their sauces1 all in progress of steaming at the same time4#fi ,the limits of our work do not permit us to enter at much length upon this subject1 but the reader who may wish to understand the nature of steam1 and the various modes in which its agency may be applied to domestic purposes1 will do well to consult ,mr4 ,webster's excellent work1#gj of which we have more particularly spoken in another chapter4 ,the quite inexperienced cook may require to be told1 that any article of food which is to be cooked by steam in a saucepan of the form exhibited in the first of the engravings of this section1 must be prepared exactly as for boiling1 and laid into the sort of strainer affixed to the top of the saucepan2 and that water1 or some other kind of liquid1 must be put into the saucepan itself1 and kept boiling in it1 the lid being first closely fixed into the steamer4 ,footnote #fi3 ,invented and sold by ,mr4 ,,evans1 ,fish-street ,hill4 ,footnote #gj3 ,encyclopdia of ,domestic ,economy4 ,,longman ,,co4 ,footnote #ga3 ,securely closed with a band of paste passed round the edges1 and pressed tightly over them4 ,the lute or luting used for chemical apparatus is of a kind of clay4 ,,stewing4 ,illustration3 ,hot ,plate4 ,this very wholesome1 convenient1 and economical mode of cookery is by no means so well understood nor profited by in ,england as on the continent1 where its advantages are fully appreciated4 ,so very small a quantity of fuel is necessary to sustain the gentle degree of ebullition which it requires1 that this alone would recommend it to the careful housekeeper2 but if the process be skilfully conducted1 meat softly stoved or stewed1 in close-shutting1 or luted#ga vessels1 is in every respect equal1 if not superior1 to that which is roasted2 but it must be simmered only1 and in the gentlest possible manner1 or1 instead of being tender1 nutritious1 and highly palatable1 it will be dry1 hard1 and indigestible4 ,the common cooking stoves in this country1 as they have hitherto been constructed1 have rendered the exact regulation of heat which stewing requires rather difficult2 and the smoke and blaze of a large coal fire are very unfavourable to many other modes of cookery as well4 ,the ,french have generally the advantage of the embers and ashes of the wood which is their ordinary fuel2 and they have always1 in addition1 a stove of this construction1 in which charcoal or braise 7for explanation of this word1 see remarks on preserving1 ,chapter ,,xxv47 only is burned2 and upon which their stewpans can1 when there is occasion1 be left uncovered1 without the danger of their contents being spoiled1 which there generally is with us4 ,it is true1 that of late great improvements have been made in our own stoves2 and the hot plates1 or hearths with which the kitchens of good houses are always furnished1 are admirably adapted to the simmering system2 but when the cook has not the convenience of one1 the stewpans must be placed on trivets high above the fire1 and be constantly watched1 and moved1 as occasion may require1 nearer to1 or further from the flame4 ,illustration ,no copper vessels from which the inner tinning is in the slightest degree worn away should be used ever for this or for any other kind of cookery2 or not health only1 but life itself1 may be endangered by them4#gb ,we have ourselves seen a dish of acid fruit which had been boiled without sugar in a copper pan from which the tin lining was half worn away1 coated with verdigris after it had become cold2 and from the careless habits of the person who had prepared it1 the chances were greatly in favour of its being served to a family afterwards1 if it had not been accidentally discovered4 ,salt acts upon the copper in the same manner as acids3 vegetables1 too1 from the portion of the latter which they contain1 have the same injurious effect1 and the greatest danger results from allowing preparations containing any of these to become cold 7or cool7 in the stewpan1 in contact with the exposed part of the copper in the inside4 ,thick1 well-tinned iron saucepans will answer for all the ordinary purposes of common ,english cookery1 even for stewing1 provided they have tightly-fitting lids to prevent the escape of the steam2 but the copper ones are of more convenient form1 and better adapted to a superior order of cookery4 ,footnote #gb3 ,sugar1 being an antidote to the poisonous effects of verdigris1 should be plentifully taken1 dissolved in water1 so as to form a syrup1 by persons who may unfortunately have partaken of any dish into which this dangerous ingredient has entered4 ,the enamelled stewpans and saucepans which have now very much superseded the old-fashioned metal ones for many purposes1 are peculiarly suited1 from the nicety of the composition with which they are lined1 and which resembles earthenware1 to the preparation of fine preserves1 and all very delicate compounds1 as well as to those of milk1 and of various articles of diet adapted to invalids2 and they possess the further advantage of being easily kept beautifully clean4 ,care should be taken not to allow anything which they may contain to burn to them1 which it will quickly do if they be placed flat upon a fierce fire2 and when this has once occurred1 there will always be some difficulty in preventing their contents from adhering to them where they have been burned4 ,they should always be filled with water immediately after being emptied1 and will then merely require to be well washed and rinsed with more boiling water2 but when they have been neglected1 strong soda and water should be boiled in them for a few minutes4 ,,broiling4 ,illustration3 ,a ,conjuror4 ,broiling is the best possible mode of cooking and of preserving the flavour of several kinds of fish1 amongst which we may specify mackerel and whitings2 it is also incomparably superior to frying for steaks and cutlets1 especially of beef and mutton2 and it is far better adapted also1 to the preparation of food for invalids2 but it should be carefully done1 for if the heat be too fierce1 the outside of the meat will be scorched and hardened so as to render it uneatable2 and if1 on the contrary1 it be too gentle1 the gravy will be drawn out1 and yet the flesh will remain so entirely without firmness1 as to be unpleasant eating4 ,a brisk fire1 perfectly free from smoke1 a very clean gridiron1 tender meat1 a dish and plates as hot as they can be1 and great despatch in sending it to table when done1 all are essential to the serving of a good broil4 ,the gridiron should be heated1 and rubbed with mutton suet before the meat is laid on1 and it should be placed slopingly over the fire1 that the fat may run off to the back of the grate1 instead of falling on the live coals and smoking the meat2 if this precaution should not prevent its making an occasional blaze1 lift the gridiron quickly beyond the reach of the smoke1 and hold it away until the fire is clear again4 ,steaks and chops should be turned often1 that the juices may be kept in1 and that they may be equally done in every part4 ,if1 for this purpose1 it should be necessary for want of steak-tongs to use a fork1 it should be passed through the outer skin or fat of the steak1 but never stuck into the lean1 as by that means much of the gravy will escape4 ,most eaters prefer broiled beef or mutton1 rather underdressed2 but lamb or pork cutlets should always be thoroughly cooked4 ,when a fowl or any other bird is cut asunder before it is broiled1 the inside should first be laid to the fire3 this should be done with kidneys also4 ,fish is less dry and of better flavour1 as well as less liable to be smoked1 if it be wrapped in a thickly buttered sheet of writing paper before it is placed on the gridiron4 ,for the more delicate-skinned kinds1 the bars should be rubbed with chalk instead of suet when the paper is omitted4 ,cutlets1 or meats of any other form1 when egged and crumbed for broiling1 should afterwards be dipped into clarified butter or sprinkled with it plentifully1 as the egg-yolk and bread will otherwise form too dry a crust upon it4 ,french cooks season their cutlets both with salt and pepper1 and brush a little oil or butter over them to keep them moist2 but unless this be done1 no seasoning of salt should be given them until they are just ready to be dished3 the ,french method is a very good one4 ,steaks or cutlets may be quickly cooked with a sheet or two of lighted paper only1 in the apparatus shown in the preceding page1 and called a conjuror4 ,lift off the cover and lay in the meat properly seasoned1 with a small slice of butter under it1 and insert the lighted paper in the aperture shown in the plate2 in from eight to ten minutes the meat will be done1 and found to be remarkably tender1 and very palatable3 it must be turned and moved occasionally during the process4 ,this is an especially convenient mode of cooking for persons whose hours of dining are rendered uncertain by the nature of their avocations4 ,for medical men engaged in extensive country practice it has often proved so2 and we would especially recommend it to the notice of emigrants1 to whom it would often prove invaluable4 ,the part in which the meat is placed is of block tin1 and fits closely into the stand1 which is of sheet iron4 ,the conjuror from which our design was drawn1 was purchased in a country town in ,essex1 and was exceedingly well made1 and very cheap4 ,we find on inquiry that the maker has quitted the place1 or we would insert his address4 ,,frying4 ,illustration3 ,saut ,pan4 ,this is an operation1 which1 though apparently very simple1 requires to be more carefully and skilfully conducted than it commonly is4 ,its success depends principally on allowing the fat to attain the exact degree of heat which shall give firmness1 without too quick browning or scorching1 before anything is laid into the pan2 for1 if this be neglected1 the article fried will be saturated with fat1 and remain pale and flaccid4 ,when the requisite degree of colour is acquired before the cooking is complete1 the pan should be placed high above the fire1 that it may be continued slowly to the proper point4 ,steaks and cutlets should be seasoned with salt and pepper and dredged on both sides lightly with flour before they are laid into the pan1 in which they should be often moved and turned that they may be equally done1 and that they may not stick nor burn to it4 ,from ten to fifteen minutes will fry them4 ,they should be evenly sliced1 about the same thickness as for broiling1 and neatly trimmed and divided in the first instance4 ,lift them into a hot dish when done2 pour the fat from the pan1 and throw in a small slice of butter2 stir to this a large teaspoonful of flour1 brown it gently1 and pour in by degrees a quarter of a pint of hot broth or water2 shake the pan well round1 add pepper1 salt1 and a little good catsup1 or any other store sauce which may be preferred to it1 and pour the gravy over the steaks3 this is the most common mode of saucing and serving them4 ,minute directions for fish1 vegetables1 omlets1 and different preparations of batter1 are given in their proper places2 but we must again observe1 that a very small frying pan 7scarcely larger than a dinner-plate7 is necessary for many of these2 and1 indeed1 the large and thick one suited to meat and fish1 and used commonly for them is altogether unfit for nicer purposes4 ,the saut-pan1 shown in the preceding page1 is much used by ,french cooks instead of a frying-pan2 it is more particularly convenient for tossing quickly over the fire small collops1 or aught else which requires but little cooking4 ,all fried dishes1 which are not sauced1 should be served extremely dry upon a neatly-folded damask cloth3 they are best drained upon a sieve reversed placed before the fire4 ,illustration3 ,wire ,basket for ,frying4 ,a wire basket of this form is convenient for frying parsley and other herbs4 ,it must be placed in a pan well filled with fat1 and lifted out quickly when the herbs are done3 they may likewise be crisped in it over a clear fire1 without any fat4 ,illustration3 ,wire ,lining of ,frying-pan4 ,illustration3 ,modern ,saut ,pan4 ,the frying-pans fitted with wire linings that lift in and out of them1 which have lately come much into use in good kitchens1 are so excellently adapted to save trouble1 and so convenient for preparing delicately light patties1 croquettes1 rissoles1 and other dishes of a similar nature1 that no cook who is expected to serve them in the best manner should be without one4 ,they should all be arranged upon this wire lining1 and plunged together into the boiling fat2 and well drained on it when they are lifted out4 ,,baking1 ,,or ,,oven ,,cookery4 ,illustration3 ,nottingham ,jar4 ,the improved construction of the ovens connected with all modern cooking stoves1 gives great facility at the present day for home baking1 even in very small establishments2 and without this convenience it is impossible for justice to be done to the person who conducts the cookery2 as many and great disadvantages attend the sending to a public oven2 and it is very discouraging to a servant who has prepared her dishes with nicety and skill1 to have them injured by the negligence of other persons4 ,one of the best modes of cooking with which we are acquainted is by means of a jar1 resembling in form that shown above1 well pasted down1 and covered with a fold of thick paper1 and then placed in a gentle oven4 ,rice is most excellent when thus slowly baked with a certain proportion of liquid1 either by itself1 or mingled with meat1 fish1 or fruit2 but we must reserve for another volume particulars of this little system of slow oven-cookery1 in which for some years past we have had numberless experiments made with almost uniform success3 it is especially suited to invalids1 from preserving the entire amount of nourishment contained in the articles of food dressed by it2 and it is to their use that we hope to appropriate it4 ,illustration3 ,american ,oven4#gc ,footnote #gc3 ,we have scarcely done justice in the former editions of this work to these very useful little ovens1 which we have found1 after long trial1 better adapted to some purposes than brick or iron ones1 because preparations which require it1 7those of ,indian corn1 for example7 can be heated in them more gradually2 and when once the management of them is understood1 they will answer admirably for delicate sweet puddings1 and for cakes1 with the advantage of requiring but a very moderate fire4 ,the oven may be used with advantage for many purposes for which it is not commonly put into requisition4 ,calves' feet1 covered with a proper proportion of water1 may be reduced to a strong jelly if left in it for some hours2 the half-head1 boned and rolled1 will be found excellent eating1 if laid1 with the bones1 into a deep pan and baked quite tender in sufficient broth or water1 to keep it covered in every part until done2 good soup also may be made in the same way1 the usual ingredients being at once added to the meat1 with the exception of the vegetables1 which will not become tender if put into cold liquid1 and should therefore be thrown in after it begins to simmer4 ,baking is likewise one of the best modes of dressing various kinds of fish3 pike and red mullet amongst others4 ,salmon cut into thick slices1 freed from the skin1 well seasoned with spice1 mixed with salt 7and with minced herbs1 at pleasure71 then arranged evenly in a dish1 and covered thickly with crumbs of bread1 moistened with clarified butter1 as directed in ,chapter ,,ii41 for baked soles1 and placed in the oven for about half an hour1 will be found very rich and highly flavoured4 ,part of the middle of the salmon left entire1 well cleaned1 and thoroughly dried1 then seasoned1 and securely wrapped in two or three folds of thickly buttered paper1 will also prove excellent eating1 if gently baked4 7,this may likewise be roasted in a ,dutch oven1 either folded in the paper1 or left without it1 and basted with butter47 ,hams1 when freshly cured1 and not over salted1 if neatly trimmed1 and covered with a coarse paste1 are both more juicy1 and of finer flavour baked than boiled4 ,savoury or pickled beef too1 put into a deep pan with a little gravy1 and plenty of butter or chopped suet on the top1 to prevent the outside from becoming dry2 then covered with paste1 or with several folds of thick paper1 and set into a moderate oven for four or five hours1 or even longer1 if it be of large weight1 is an excellent dish4 ,a goose1 a leg of pork1 and a sucking pig1 if properly attended to while in the oven1 are said to be nearly1 or quite as good as if roasted2 but baking is both an unpalatable and an unprofitable mode of cooking joints of meat in general1 though its great convenience to many persons who have but few other facilities for obtaining the luxury of a hot dinner renders it a very common one4 ,it is usual to raise meat from the dish in which it is sent to the oven by placing it1 properly skewered1 on a stand1 so as to allow potatoes or a batter pudding to be baked under it4 ,a few button onions1 freed from the outer skin1 or three or four large ones1 cut in halves1 are sometimes put beneath a shoulder of mutton4 ,two sheets of paper spread separately with a thick layer of butter1 clarified marrow1 or any other fat1 and fastened securely over the outside of a joint1 will prevent its being too much dried by the fierce heat of the oven4 ,a few spoonsful of water or gravy should be poured into the dish with potatoes1 and a little salt sprinkled over them4 ,a celebrated ,french cook recommends braising in the oven2 that is to say1 after the meat has been arranged in the usual manner1 and just brought to boil over the fire1 that the braising pan1 closely stopped1 should be put into a moderate oven1 for the same length of time as would be required to stew the meat perfectly tender4 ,,braising4 ,illustration3 ,english ,braising-pan4 ,braising is but a more expensive mode of stewing meat4 ,the following ,french recipe will explain the process4 ,we would observe1 however1 that the layers of beef or veal1 in which the joint to be braised is imbedded1 can afterwards be converted into excellent soup1 gravy1 or glaze2 and that there need1 in consequence1 be no waste nor any unreasonable degree of expense attending it2 but it is a troublesome process1 and quite as good a result may be obtained by simmering the meat in very strong gravy4 ,should the flavour of the bacon be considered an advantage1 slices of it can be laid over the article braised1 and secured to it with a fillet of tape4 8,to braise the inside 7or small fillet1 as it is called in ,france7 of a sirloin of beef3 ,raise the fillet clean from the joint2 and with a sharp knife strip off all the skin1 leaving the surface of the meat as smooth as possible2 have ready some strips of unsmoked bacon1 half as thick as your little finger1 roll them in a mixture of thyme finely minced1 spices in powder1 and a little pepper and salt4 ,lard the fillet quite through with these1 and tie it round with tape in any shape you choose4 ,line the bottom of a stewpan 7or braising-pan7 with slices of bacon2 next put in a layer of beef or veal1 four onions1 two bay-leaves1 two carrots1 and a bunch of sweet herbs1 and place the fillet on them4 ,cover it with slices of bacon1 put some trimmings of meat all round it1 and pour on to it half a pint of good beef broth or gravy4 ,let it stew as gently as possible for two hours and a half2 take it up1 and keep it very hot2 strain1 and reduce the gravy by quick boiling until it is thick enough to glaze with2 brush the meat over with it2 put the rest in the dish with the fillet1 after the tape has been removed from it1 and send it directly to table40 ,equal parts of ,madeira and gravy are sometimes used to moisten the meat4 ,no attempt should be made to braise a joint in any vessel that is not very nearly of its own size4 ,illustration3 ,copper ,stewpan4#gd ,footnote #gd3 ,the line which passes round this stewpan just above the handle1 is a mistake of the designer1 and conveys an erroneous idea of the form of the cover1 and it ought to have been omitted4 ,a round of buttered paper is generally put over the more delicate kinds of braised meat1 to prevent their being browned by the fire1 which in ,france is sometimes put round the lid of the braising-pan1 in a groove made on purpose to contain it4 ,the embers of a wood fire mixed with the hot ashes1 are best adapted to sustain the regular but gentle degree of heat required for this mode of cooking4 ,braising pans are of various forms4 ,they are often shaped like a ham-kettle1 and sometimes like the design at the commencement of this section2 but a stewpan of modern form1 or any other vessel which will admit of embers being placed upon the lid1 will answer for the purpose as well4 ,common cooks sometimes stew meat in a mixture of butter and water1 and call it braising4 ,,larding4 ,illustration3 ,larding ,pins4 ,cut into slices1 of the same length and thickness1 some bacon of the finest quality2 trim away the outsides1 place the slices evenly upon each other1 and with a sharp knife divide them obliquely into small strips of equal size4 ,for pheasants1 partridges1 hares1 fowls1 and fricandeaux1 the bacon should be about the eighth of an inch square1 and two inches in length2 but for meat which is to be larded quite through1 instead of on the outside merely1 the bits of bacon 7properly called lardoons7 must be at least the third of an inch square4 ,in general1 the breasts only of birds are larded1 the backs and thighs of hares1 and the whole of the upper surface of a fricandeau3 these should be thickly covered with small lardoons1 placed at regular intervals1 and in lines which intersect each other1 so as to form rather minute diamonds4 ,the following directions for larding a pheasant will serve equally for poultry1 or for other kinds of game3-- ,secure one end of the bacon in a slight larding-needle1 and on the point of this take up sufficient of the flesh of the bird to hold the lardoon firmly2 draw the needle through it1 and part of the bacon1 of which the two ends should be left of equal length4 ,proceed thus1 until the breast of the pheasant is entirely garnished with lardoons1 when it ought to resemble in appearance a cake thickly stuck with strips of almonds4 ,the larger strips of bacon1 after being rolled in a high seasoning of minced herbs and spices1 are used to lard the inside of meat1 and they should be proportioned to its thickness1 as they must be passed quite through it4 ,for example3 a four-inch slice from a rump of beef will require lardoons of very nearly that length1 which must be drawn through with a large larding-pin1 and left in it1 with the ends just out of sight on either side4 ,in ,france1 truffles1 anchovies1 slices of tongue1 and of fat1 all trimmed into proper shape1 are occasionally used for larding4 ,the bacon employed there for the purpose is cured without any saltpetre 7as this would redden the white meats71 and it is never smoked3 the receipt for it will be found in ,chapter ,,xiii4 ,a turkey is sometimes larded with alternate lardoons of fat bacon and of bullock's tongue1 which has been pickled but not dried3 we apprehend that the lean of a half-boiled ham1 of good colour1 would answer the purpose quite as well1 or better4 ,larding the surface of meat1 poultry1 or game1 gives it a good appearance1 but it is a more positive improvement to meat of a dry nature to interlard the inside with large lardoons of well-seasoned1 delicate1 striped ,english bacon4 ,,boning4 ,very minute directions being given in other parts of our volume for this1 we confine ourselves here to the following rules3--in disengaging the flesh from it1 work the knife always close to the bone1 and take every care not to pierce the outer skin4 ,,to ,,blanch ,,meat ,,or ,,vegetables4 ,this is merely to throw either into a pan of boiling water for a few minutes1 which gives firmness to the first1 and is necessary for some modes of preparing vegetables4 ,the breast only of a bird is sometimes held in the water while it boils1 to render it firm for larding4 ,to preserve the whiteness of meat1 and the bright green of vegetables1 they are lifted from the water after they have boiled a few minutes1 and are thrown immediately into spring water1 and left till cold4 #e to #aj minutes4 ,,glazing ,illustration ,this process we have explained at the article ,glaze1 ,chapter ,,iv4 ,the surface of the meat should be covered evenly1 with two or three separate layers of the glaze1 which1 if properly made1 soon becomes firm4 ,a ham should be well dried in the oven before it is laid on4 ,cutlets of all kinds may be glazed before they are sent to table1 with very good effect4 ,the figure above represents a glaze-pot and brush1 used for heating and applying the preparation3 a jar placed in a pan of boiling water may be substituted for the first1 when it is not at hand4 ,,toasting4 ,illustration ,a very cheap apparatus1 by which chops can be dressed before a clear fire1 is shown by the first of these figures2 and the second is peculiarly convenient when bread or muffins are required to be toasted expeditiously and in large quantities1 without much time and attention being bestowed upon them4 ,,to ,,brown ,,the ,,surface ,,of ,a ,,dish ,,without ,,baking ,,or ,,placing ,,it ,,at ,,the ,,fire4 ,this is done with a salamander1 as it is called1 formed like the engraving below2 it is heated in the fire1 and held over the dish sufficiently near to give it colour4 ,it is very much used in a superior order of cookery4 ,a kitchen shovel is sometimes substituted for it on an emergency4 ,illustration ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,chapter ,x4 ,beef4 ,illustration ,no4 #a4 ,sirloin4 #b4 ,rump4 #c4 ,edge-bone4 #d4 ,buttock1 or ,round4 #e4 ,mouse ,buttock4 #f4 ,veiny ,piece4 #g4 ,thick ,flank4 #h4 ,thin ,flank4 #i4 ,leg4 #aj4 ,fore ,rib4 7,five ,ribs47 #aa4 ,middle ,rib4 7,four ,ribs47 #ab4 ,chuck ,rib4 7,three ,ribs47 #ac4 ,shoulder1 or ,leg of ,mutton ,piece4 #ad4 ,brisket4 #ae4 ,clod4 #af4 ,neck4 #ag4 ,shin4 #ah4 ,cheek4 ,,to ,,choose ,,beef4 ,beef is in reality in season through the entire year1 but it is best during the winter months1 when it will hang a sufficient time to become tender before it is dressed4 ,meat of a more delicate nature is better adapted for the table in summer4 ,the ,christmas beef of ,england is too much celebrated to require any mention here4 ,if young and freshly killed1 the lean of ox-beef will be smoothly grained1 and of a fine1 healthy1 carnation-red1 the fat rather white than yellow1 and the suet white and firm4 ,heifer-beef is more closely grained1 and rather less bright of colour1 the bones are considerably smaller1 and the fat of a purer white4 ,of bull-beef we only speak to warn our readers that it is of all meat the coarsest and the most rank in flavour4 ,it may be known by its dark hue1 its close tough fibre1 and the scanty proportion1 bad appearance1 and strong odour of its fat4 ,in choice and well-fed beef1 the lean will be found intergrained with fat3 very lean meat is generally of an inferior quality4 ,the ribs1 the sirloin1 and the rump1 are the proper joints for roasting4 ,the round1 or buttock1 the edgebone1 the second round1 or mouse-buttock1 the shin1 the brisket1 the shoulder or leg of mutton piece1 and the clod1 may be boiled or stewed4 ,the neck is generally used for soup or gravy2 and the thin flank for collaring4 ,the best steaks are cut from the middle of the rump2 the next best from the veiny piece1 or from the chuck-rib4 ,the inside of the sirloin1 commonly used for the purpose in ,france1 makes by far the most delicate steaks2 but though exceedingly tender1 they are considered by some ,english epicures to be wanting in flavour4 ,the finest part of the sirloin is the chump-end1 which contains the larger portion of the fillet2 of the ribs1 the middle ones are those generally preferred by experienced housekeepers4 ,,to ,,roast ,,sirloin1 ,,or ,,ribs ,,of ,,beef4 ,let the joint hang as long as it can possibly be kept perfectly sweet4 ,when it is first brought in1 remove the pipe of marrow which runs along the back-bone2 and cut out the kernels from the fat4 ,be very careful in summer to guard it from flies2 examine it frequently in warm or damp weather2 and scrape off with a knife1 or wipe away with a dry cloth1 any moisture which may appear on the surface3 when this has been done1 dust some powdered ginger or pepper over it4 ,unless the joint should be very large1 its appearance will be improved by taking off the ends of the bones1 which may then be salted for a few days1 and afterwards boiled4 ,spit the beef firmly2 place it near the fire to render the surface firm1 as directed in the article ,roasting1 of ,chapter ,,ix42 then draw it to a distance and let it remain so until the heat has well penetrated the interior2 and1 if from prejudice the old method be still preferred1 heat it very gradually in the first instance 7in either case baste it constantly71 and let it be drawn nearer to the fire for the last half hour or more of roasting1 merely to brown it well4 ,persons who object to meat being frothed for table1 have it dredged with flour when it is first placed at the fire1 and sprinkled with fine salt when it is nearly done4 ,it is not necessary to paper the fat of beef1 as many cooks direct1 if proper attention be given to it while roasting4 ,as a general rule1 it may be observed1 that when the steam from the meat draws strongly towards the fire1 it is nearly or quite ready to serve4 ,the time required to roast it will depend on the state of the weather1#ge the size and strength of the fire1 the thickness of the joint1 the use or non-use of a meat-screen or reflector1 the general temperature of the kitchen1 and other contingencies4 ,a quarter of an hour for each pound of meat is commonly allowed for solid1 heavy joints1 and1 if the directions we have given be attended to1 this will not be found too much even for persons who prefer beef somewhat rare3 it must be left longer at the fire if wished very thoroughly roasted1 and quite double the usual time when the plan we have noticed at page #agb1 is adopted4 ,when likely to be sent to table hashed1 minced1 or dressed a second time in any way1 the juices of the meat should be dried up as little as possible when it is first cooked4 ,footnote #ge3 ,the meat will be much sooner done in hot weather than in cold4 ,if frozen1 it must be thawed very gradually before it is put to the fire1 or no length of time will roast it2 this will be effected better by laying it into cold water for some hours before it is wanted1 than by any other means4 ,,roast ,,rump ,,of ,,beef4 ,as this joint is generally too much to serve whole1 as much of it as will form a handsome dish should be cut from the chump end to roast4 ,it must be managed as the sirloin1 to which it is commonly preferred by connoisseurs4 ,when boned and rolled into the form of a fillet of veal1 as it sometimes is1 nearly or quite an additional hour should be allowed to dress it4 ,,to ,,roast ,,part ,,of ,a ,,round ,,of ,,beef4 ,the natural division of the meat will show where the silver side of the round is to be separated from the upper or tongue side1 which is the proper part for roasting1 and which will be found equally good and profitable for the purpose1 if allowed to hang as long as it can be kept sweet before it is dressed4 ,care should be taken in dividing the meat1 not to pierce the inner skin4 ,the silver side1 with the udder1 if there should be one to the joint1 may be pickled1 spiced1 or simply salted1 and will be excellent either way4 ,the outside fat should be drawn tightly round the remainder of the beef1 which must be firmly skewered1 or bound with tape1 to keep it in form4 ,it will require long roasting at a strong1 steady fire1 and should be kept constantly basted4 ,beef1 #ad lbs43 #d-a_/b to #e hours4 ,obs4--,we think that larding the beef quite through with large lardoons of firm fat1 of udder1 or of bacon1 would be an improvement2 and we ought also to observe1 that unless it be delicate and of fine quality1 it will not answer well for roasting4 ,,to ,,roast ,a ,,fillet ,,of ,,beef4 ,raise the fillet from the inside of the sirloin1 or from part of it1 with a sharp knife2 leave the fat on1 trim off the skin1 lard it through1 or all over1 or roast it quite plain2 baste it with butter1 and send it very hot to table1 with tomata sauce1 or sauce piquante1 or eschalot sauce1 in a tureen4 ,it is sometimes served with brown gravy and currant jelly2 it should then be garnished with forcemeat-balls1 made as for hare4 ,if not very large1 an hour and a quarter will roast it well with a brisk fire4 ,obs4--,the remainder of the joint may be boned1 rolled1 and roasted1 or braised2 or made into meat cakes2 or served as a miniature round of beef4 #a-a_/d hour4 ,,roast ,,beef ,,steak4 ,if extremely tender1 a large slice from the middle of the rump will make an excellent small dish of roast meat1 when a joint is not easily to be procured4 ,let it be smoothly cut1 from an inch to an inch and a half thick1 flattened on a table1 and the inside sprinkled with a little fine salt and cayenne1 or common pepper4 ,make a roll of forcemeat1 as ,no4 #a1 ,chapter ,,viii41 adding1 at pleasure1 a flavouring of minced onion or eschalot1 and increasing the quantity of spices2 place this on one end of the steak1 and roll it up tightly in it2 skewer and bind the meat so that the forcemeat cannot escape2 fasten a buttered paper over it1 and roast it an hour and a half1 or more1 according to its size4 ,twenty minutes before it is served1 take off the paper and flour the meat1 which should be kept well basted with butter all the time it is roasting4 ,send brown gravy to table with it1 and pour a little over the beef4 #a-a_/b hour1 or more4 ,,to ,,broil ,,beef ,,steaks4 ,the steaks should be from half to three quarters of an inch thick1 equally sliced1 and freshly cut from the middle of a well kept1 finely grained1 and tender rump of beef4 ,they should be neatly trimmed1 and once or twice divided1 if very large4 ,the fire1 as we have already said in the general directions for broiling 7page #age71 must be strong and clear4 ,the bars of the gridiron should be thin1 and not very close together4 ,when they are thoroughly heated1 without being sufficiently burning to scorch the meat1 wipe and rub them with fresh mutton suet2 next pepper the steaks slightly1 but never season them with salt before they are dressed2 lay them on the gridiron1 and when done on one side1 turn them on the other1 being careful to catch1 in the dish in which they are to be sent to table1 any gravy which may threaten to drain from them when they are moved4 ,let them be served the instant they are taken from the fire2 and have ready at the moment1 dish1 cover1 and plates1 as hot as they can be4 ,from eight to ten minutes will be sufficient to broil steaks for the generality of eaters1 and more than enough for those who like them but partially done4 ,genuine amateurs seldom take prepared sauce or gravy with their steaks1 as they consider the natural juices of the meat sufficient4 ,when any accompaniment to them is desired1 a small quantity of choice mushroom catsup may be warmed in the dish that is heated to receive them2 and which1 when the not very refined flavour of a raw eschalot is liked1 as it is by some eaters1 may previously be rubbed with one1 of which the large end has been cut off4 ,a thin slice or two of fresh butter is sometimes laid under the steaks1 where it soon melts and mingles with the gravy which flows from them4 ,the appropriate tureen sauces for broiled beef steaks are onion1 tomata1 oyster1 eschalot1 hot horseradish1 and brown cucumber1 or mushroom sauce4 ,obs4 #a4--,we have departed a little in this receipt from our previous instructions for broiling1 by recommending that the steaks should be turned but once1 instead of 8often10 as all great authorities on the subject direct4 ,by trying each method1 our readers will be able to decide for themselves upon the preferable one3 we can only say1 that we have never eaten steaks so excellent as those which have been dressed exactly in accordance with the receipt we have just given1 and we have taken infinite pains to ascertain the really best mode of preparing this very favourite ,english dish1 which so constantly makes its appearance both carelessly cooked and ill served1 especially at private tables4 ,obs4 #b4--;,it is a good plan to throw a few bits of charcoal on the fire some minutes before the steaks are laid down1 as they give forth a strong heat without any smoke3 a coke fire is also advantageous for broiling them4 ,the upright gridirons1 by which meat is rather toasted than broiled1 though used in many kitchens1 and generally pronounced exceedingly convenient where they have been tried1 do not appear to as so well adapted for dressing steaks as those of less modern fashion1 which are placed over1 instead of before the fire4 ,,beef ,,steaks ,,la ,,fran,,aise4 ,the inside of the sirloin freed from skin and cut evenly into round quarter-inch slices1 should properly be used for these2 but when it cannot be obtained1 part of the rump must be substituted for it4 ,season the steaks with fine salt and pepper1 brush them with a little clarified butter1 and broil them over a clear brisk fire4 ,mix a teaspoonful of parsley minced extremely fine1 with a large slice of fresh butter1 a little cayenne1 and a small quantity of salt4 ,when the steaks are done1 put the mixture into the dish intended for them1 lay them upon it1 and garnish them plentifully with fried potatoes4 ,it is an improvement to squeeze the juice of half a lemon on the butter before the meat is heaped over it4 ,the potatoes should be sliced rather thin1 coloured of a fine brown1 and placed evenly round the meat4 ,,beef ,,steaks ,,la ,,fran,,aise 7,,entr,e74 7,another ,receipt47 ,cut the beef into small thin steaks as above1 season them with fine salt and pepper1 dredge them lightly with flour1 and fry them in butter over a brisk fire2 arrange them in a chain round a very hot dish1 and pour into the centre the olive sauce of ,chapter ,v4 ,,stewed ,,beef ,,steak 7,,entr,e74 ,this may be cut from one to two inches thick1 and the time of stewing it must be proportioned to its size4 ,dissolve a slice of butter in a large saucepan or stewpan1 and brown the steak on both sides1 moving it often that it may not burn2 then shake in a little flour1 and when it is coloured pour in by degrees rather more than sufficient broth or water to cover the meat4 ,when it boils1 season it with salt1 take off the scum1 slice in one onion1 a carrot or two1 and half a turnip2 add a small bunch of sweet herbs1 and stew the steak very softly from two hours and a half to three hours4 ,a quarter of an hour before it is served1 stir well into the gravy three teaspoonsful of rice flour smoothly mixed with a little cayenne1 half a wineglassful of mushroom catsup1 and a slight seasoning of spice4 ,a teaspoonful of currie powder1 in addition1 will improve both the flavour and the appearance of the sauce4 ,the onion is sometimes browned with the meat2 and the quantity is considerably increased4 ,eschalots may be used instead1 where their strong flavour is approved4 ,a few button-mushrooms1 stewed from twenty to thirty minutes with the meat1 will render the catsup unnecessary4 ,wine1 or any favourite store sauce1 can be added at will4 #b-a_/b to #c hours4 ,,fried ,,beef ,,steak4 ,we have little to add here to the directions of ,chapter ,,ix41 which are sufficient to enable the cook to send a dish of fried steaks to table properly dressed4 ,currie sauce1 highly onioned1 is frequently served with them4 ,,beef ,,steak ,,stewed ,,in ,,its ,,own ,,gravy4 7,good and wholesome47 ,trim all the fat and skin from a rump steak of nearly an inch thick1 and divide it once or twice2 just dip it into cold water1 let it drain for an instant1 sprinkle it on both sides with pepper1 and then flour it rather thickly2 lay it quite flat into a well-tinned iron saucepan or stewpan1 which has been rinsed with cold water1 of which three or four tablespoonsful should be left in it4 ,place it over 7not upon7 a very gentle fire1 and keep it just simmering from an hour and a half to an hour and three quarters1 when1 if the meat be good1 it will have become perfectly tender4 ,add salt to it when it first begins to boil1 and turn it when rather more than half done4 ,a couple of spoonsful of gravy1 half as much catsup1 and a slight seasoning of spice1 would1 to many tastes1 improve this dish1 of which1 however1 the great recommendation is its wholesome simplicity1 which renders it suitable to the most delicate stomach4 ,a thick mutton cutlet from the middle of the leg is excellent dressed thus4 #a-a_/b to #a-c_/d hour4 ,,beef ,,or ,,mutton ,,cake4 7,very good47 ,chop two pounds of lean and very tender beef or mutton1 with three quarters of a pound of beef suet2 mix them well1 and season them with a dessertspoonful of salt1 nearly as much pounded cloves1 a teaspoonful of pounded mace1 and half a teaspoonful of cayenne4 ,line a round baking dish with thin slices of fat bacon1 press the meat closely into it1 smooth the top1 and cover it with bacon1 set a plate on it with a weight1 and bake it two hours and a quarter4 ,take off the bacon1 and serve the meat hot1 with a little rich brown gravy1 or set it by until cold1 when it will be equally good4 ,the fat of the meat which is used for this dish can be chopped up with it instead of suet1 where it is liked as well2 and onion1 or eschalot1 shred fine1 minced savoury herbs1 grated lemon-peel1 rasped bacon1 or mushrooms cut small1 may in turn be added to vary it in flavour4 ,lean beef or mutton1 #b lbs42 suet1 #c_/d lb42 salt and cloves in powder1 each a dessertspoonful2 mace1 #a teaspoonful2 half as much cayenne3 baked #b-a_/d hours4 ,obs4--,a larger portion of suet or of fat will render these cakes lighter1 but will not otherwise improve them3 they may be made of veal or of venison1 but one-third of mutton suet or of fat bacon should be mixed with this last4 ,,german ,,stew4 ,cut into about three-inch squares1 two pounds and a half of the leaner part of the veiny piece of beef1 or of any joint which is likely to be tender1 and set it on to stew1 with rather less than a quart of cold broth or water1 and one large onion sliced4 ,when these begin to boil1 add a teaspoonful of salt1 and a third as much of pepper1 and let them simmer gently for an hour and a half4 ,have ready some young white cabbages1 parboiled2 press the water well from them1 lay them in with the beef1 and let the whole stew for another hour4 ,more onions1 and a seasoning of mixed spices1 or a few bits of lean bacon1 or of ham1 can be added to this stew when a higher flavour is desired2 but it is very good without4 ,beef1 #b-a_/b lbs42 water1 or broth1 #a-c_/d pint2 onion1 #a2 salt1 #a teaspoonful2 third as much pepper3 #a-a_/b hour4 ,parboiled cabbages1 #c or #d3 #a hour4 ,,welsh ,,stew4 ,take the same proportions of beef1 and of broth or water1 as for the ,german ,stew4 ,when they have simmered gently for an hour1 add the white part of from twenty to thirty leeks1 or two dozens of button onions1 and five or six young mild turnips1 cut in slices1 a small lump of white sugar1 nearly half a teaspoonful of white pepper and more than twice as much salt4 ,stew the whole softly from an hour and a quarter to an hour and a half1 after the vegetables are added4 ,beef and water as above3 #a hour4 ,leeks1 #bj to #cj3 or small onions1 #bd2 young turnips1 #f2 small lump of sugar2 white pepper1 nearly #a_/b teaspoonful2 salt1 twice as much3 #a-a_/d to #a-a_/b hour4 ,a ,,good ,,english ,,stew4 ,on three pounds of tender rump of beef1 freed from skin and fat1 and cut down into about two-inch squares1 pour rather more than a quart of cold broth or gravy4 ,when it boils add salt if required1 and a little cayenne1 and keep it just simmering for a couple of hours2 then put to it the grated rind of a large lemon1 or of two small ones1 and half an hour after1 stir to it a tablespoonful of rice-flour1 smoothly mixed with a wineglassful of mushroom catsup1 a dessertspoonful of lemon-juice1 and a teaspoonful of soy3 in fifteen minutes it will be ready to serve4 ,a glass and a half of port1 or of white wine1 will greatly improve this stew1 which may likewise be flavoured with the store-sauce of page #adf1 or with another1 which we find excellent for the purpose1 made with half a pint of port wine1 the same of mushroom-catsup1 a quarter pint of walnut pickle1 a tablespoonful of the best soy1 and a dessertspoonful of cayenne-vinegar1 all well shaken together and poured into a bottle containing the thin rind of a lemon and two fine mellow anchovies1 of moderate size4 ,a few delicately fried forcemeat-balls may be slipped into it after it is dished4 ,obs4--,the limits of our work will not permit us to devote a further space to this class of dishes1 but an intelligent cook will find it easy to vary them in numberless ways4 ,mushrooms1 celery1 carrots1 sweet herbs1 parboiled new potatoes1 green peas1 rice1 and currie-powder may be advantageously used for that purpose4 ,ox-tails1 just blanched and cut into joints1 will be found excellent substitutes for the beef3 mutton and veal also may be dressed in the same way4 ,the meat and vegetables can be browned before broth or water is poured to them2 but though1 perhaps1 more savoury1 the stew will then be much less delicate4 ,each kind of vegetable should be allowed something more than sufficient time to render it perfectly tender1 but not so much as would reduce it to pulp4 ,,to ,,stew ,,shin ,,of ,,beef4 ,wash1 and set it on to stew in sufficient cold water to keep it just covered until it is done4 ,when it boils1 take off the scum and put an ounce and a quarter of salt to the gallon of water4 ,it is usual to add a few cloves and some black pepper1 slightly bruised and tied up loosely in a fold of muslin1 two or more onions1 a root of celery1 a bunch of savoury herbs1 four or five carrots1 and as many turnips1 either whole or sliced3 if to be served with the meat1 the two last will require a little more than the ordinary time of boiling1 but otherwise they may be simmered with the meat from the beginning4 ,give the beef from four to five hours' gentle stewing2 and serve it with part of its own liquor thickened and flavoured1 or quite plain4 ,an excellent dish for a family may be made by stewing the thick fleshy part of the shin or leg1 in stock made of the knuckle1 with a few bits of lean ham1 or a slice of hung beef from which the smoked edges have been carefully pared away1 and some spice1 salt1 and vegetables3 by frying these last before they are thrown into the soup-pot the savour of the stew will be greatly heightened2 and a tureen of good soup may be made of its remains1 after it has been served at table4 ,ox-cheek1 after having been soaked for four or five hours1 and washed with great nicety1 may be dressed like the shin2 but as it has little flavour1 the gravy should be strained1 and quite cleared from fat1 then put into a clean saucepan1 and thickened as soon as it boils1 with the following mixture3--three dessertspoonsful of rice-flour1 nearly a wineglassful of catsup1 a teaspoonsful of currie-powder1 or a little powdered ginger and cayenne4 ,when these have stewed for ten minutes1 dish the head1 pour the sauce over1 and serve it4 ,shin of beef1 #d to #e hours4 ,ox-cheek1 #b to #c hours4 ,,french ,,beef ,,la ,,mode4 7,a common ,receipt47 ,take seven or eight pounds of a rump of beef 7or of any other tender joint71 free from bone1 and skewer it firmly into a good shape4 ,put two ounces of butter into a thick saucepan or stewpan1 and when it boils stir to it a tablespoonful of flour2 keep these well shaken over a gentle fire until they are of a fine amber colour2 then lay in the beef1 and brown it on both sides1 taking care that it shall not stick to the pan4 ,pour to it by slow degrees1 letting each portion boil before the next is added or the butter will float upon the surface and be difficult to clear off afterwards1 three quarters of a pint of hot water or gravy2 add a bunch of savoury herbs1 one large or two small carrots cut in thick slices1 two or three moderate-sized onions1 two bay-leaves1 and sufficient pepper and salt to season the gravy4 ,let the meat simmer gently from four to five hours1 and turn it when it is half done4 ,when ready to serve1 lift the beef into a hot dish1 lay the vegetables round1 and pour the gravy over it1 after having taken out the herbs and skimmed away the fat4 ,in ,france1 half or the whole of a calf's foot is stewed with the beef1 which is there generally larded with thick lardoons of fat bacon4 7,for larding1 see ,chapter ,x47 ,veal dressed in this way is even better than beef4 ,the stewpan used for either should be as nearly of the size of the meat as possible4 ,beef1 #g to #h lbs43 #d to #e hours4 ,,stewed ,,sirloin ,,of ,,beef4 ,as a matter of convenience we have occasionally had this joint stewed instead of roasted1 and have found it excellent4 ,cut out the inside or fillet as entire as possible1 and reserve it for a separate dish2 then remove the bones with care1 or let the butcher do this4 ,spread the meat flat on a table and cover the inside with thin slices of striped bacon1 after having first strewed over it a mixed seasoning of a small teaspoonful of salt1 half as much mace or nutmeg1 and a moderate quantity of pepper or cayenne4 ,roll and bind the meat up firmly1 lay it into a stewpan or thick iron saucepan nearly of its size1 and add the bones and as much good beef broth as will nearly cover the joint4 ,should this not be at hand1 put a few slices of lean ham or bacon under the beef1 and lay round it three pounds of neck or knuckle of veal1 or of stewing beef divided into several parts2 then pour to it cold water instead of broth4 ,in either case1 so soon as it has boiled a few minutes and been well cleaned from scum1 throw in a large faggot of savoury herbs1 three or four carrots1 as many leeks1 or a large onion stuck with a dozen cloves2 and an hour later two blades of mace1 and half a teaspoonful of peppercorns4 ,stew the beef very gently indeed from four to five hours1 and longer1 should the joint be large3 serve it with a good ,espagnole sauce piquante1 or brown caper sauce4 ,add what salt may be needed before the vegetables are thrown in2 and1 after the meat is lifted out1 boil down to soup or gravy the liquor in which it has been stewed4 ,to many tastes it would be an improvement to flour and brown the outside of the beef in butter before the broth or water is poured to it3 it may also be stewed 7but somewhat longer7 half-covered with rich gravy1 and turned when partially done4 ,minced eschalots may be strewed over the inside before it is rolled1 when their strong savour is relished1 or veal forcemeat may supply their place4 ,,to ,,stew ,a ,,rump ,,of ,,beef4 ,this joint is more easily carved1 and is of better appearance when the bones are removed before it is dressed4 ,roll and bind it firmly with a fillet of tape1 cover it with strong cold beef broth or gravy1 and stew it very gently indeed from six hours to between seven and eight2 add to it1 after the scum has been well cleared off1 one large or two moderate-sized onions stuck with thirty cloves1 a head of celery1 two carrots1 two turnips1 and a large faggot of savoury herbs4 ,when the beef is perfectly tender quite through1 which may be known by probing it with a sharp thin skewer1 remove the fillets of tape1 dish it neatly1 and serve it with a rich ,espagnole1 and a garnish of forced tomatas1 or with a highly-flavoured brown ,english gravy1 and stewed carrots in the dish3 for these last the mild preparation of garlic or eschalots1 of page #abb1 may be substituted with good effect4 ,they should be well drained1 laid round the meat1 and a little brown gravy should be poured over the whole4 ,this is the most simple and economical manner of stewing the beef2 but should a richer one be desired1 half roast the joint1 and stew it afterwards in strong gravy to which a pint of mushrooms1 and a pint of sherry or ,madeira1 should be added an hour before it is ready for table4 ,keep it hot while a portion of the gravy is thickened with a well-made brown roux 7see ,chapter ,,iv471 and seasoned with salt1 cayenne1 and any other spice it may require4 ,garnish it with large balls of forcemeat highly seasoned with minced eschalots1 rolled in egg and bread-crumbs1 and fried a fine golden brown4 ,plainly stewed from #f to #g or #h hours4 ,or3 half roasted then stewed from #d to #e hours4 ,obs4--,grated horseradish1 mixed with some well-thickened brown gravy1 a teaspoonful of mustard1 and a little lemon-juice or vinegar1 is a good sauce for stewed beef4 ,,beef ,,palates4 7,,entr,e47 ,first rub them well with salt1 to cleanse them well2 then wash them thoroughly in several waters1 and leave them to soak for half an hour before they are dressed4 ,set them over the fire in cold water1 and boil them gently until the skin will peel off1 and the palates are tolerably tender4 ,it is difficult to state the exact time required for this1 as some will be done in two hours and a half1 and others in not less than from four to five hours4 ,when thus prepared1 the palates may be cut into various forms1 and simmered until fit to serve in rich brown gravy1 highly flavoured with ham1 cayenne1 wine1 and lemon-peel2 or they will make an excellent currie4 ,as they are very insipid of themselves1 they require a sauce of some piquancy1 in which1 after they have been peeled and trimmed1 they should be stewed from twenty to thirty minutes1 or until they are perfectly tender4 ,the black parts of them must be cut away1 when the skin is taken off4 ,an onion1 stuck with a few cloves1 a carrot sliced1 a teaspoonful of whole white pepper1 a slice of butter1 and a teaspoonful of salt1 may be boiled with the palates in the first instance2 and they will be found very good1 if sent to table in the curried gravy of ,chapter ,,xvi41 or in the ,soubise of ,chapter ,,vi41 made thinner than the receipts direct4 ,boiled from #b-a_/b to #d or #e hours4 ,stewed from #bj to #cj minutes4 ,obs4--,a ,french cook of some celebrity1 orders the palates to be laid on the gridiron until the skin can be easily peeled or scraped off2 the plan seems a good one1 but we have not tried it4 ,,beef ,,palates4 7,neapolitan ,mode47 ,boil the palates until the skin can be easily removed1 then stew them very tender in good veal broth1 lay them on a drainer and let them cool2 cut them across obliquely into strips of about a quarter-inch in width1 and finish them by either of the receipts for dressing maccaroni1 which will be found in ,chapters ,,xviii4 and ,,xx4 ,,stewed ,,ox-,,tails4 ,they should be sent from the butcher ready jointed4 ,soak and wash them well1 cut them into joints or into lengths of two or three joints1 and cover them with cold broth or water4 ,as soon as they boil remove the scum1 and add a half-teaspoonful of salt or as much more as may be needed1 and a little common pepper or cayenne1 an onion stuck with half a dozen cloves1 two or three small carrots1 and a branch or two of parsley4 ,when these have simmered for two hours and a quarter1 try the meat with a fork1 and should it not be perfectly tender1 let it remain over the fire until it is so4 ,ox-tails sometimes require nearly or quite three hours' stewing3 they may be served with the vegetables1 or with the gravy strained from them1 and thickened like the ,english stew of the present chapter4 ,ox-tails1 #b2 water or broth to cover them2 salt1 #a_/b teaspoonful1 or more2 little pepper or cayenne2 onion1 #a2 cloves1 #f2 carrots1 #b or #c2 parsley1 #b or #c branches3 #b-a_/b to #c hours4 ,,broiled ,,ox-,,tail4 7,,entr,e47 7,very good47 ,when the ox-tail is ready for the stewpan1 throw it into plenty of boiling water slightly salted1 and simmer it for fifteen minutes2 then take it up and put it into fresh water to cool2 wipe it1 and lay it round in a small stewpan without dividing it1 just cover it with good beef gravy1 and stew it gently until very tender2 drain it a little1 sprinkle over it a small quantity of salt and cayenne1 dip it into clarified butter and then into some fine bread-crumbs1 with which it should be thickly covered1 lay it on the gridiron1 and when equally browned all over serve it immediately4 ,if more convenient the ox-tail may be set into the oven or before the fire1 until properly coloured3 it may likewise be sent to table without broiling1 dished upon stewed cabbage or in its own gravy thickened1 and with tomata sauce1 in a tureen4 ,,to ,,salt ,,and ,,pickle ,,beef1 ,,in ,,various ,,ways4 ,let the meat hang a couple of days in mild weather1 and four or five in winter1 before it is salted or pickled4 ,during the heat of summer it is better to immerse it entirely in brine1 that it may be secured alike from the flies1 and from the danger of becoming putrid4 ,trim it1 and take out the kernels from the fat2 then rub a little fine dry salt over it1 and leave it until the following day2 drain it well from the blood1 which will be found to have flowed from it1 and it will be ready for any of the following modes of curing1 which are all excellent of their kind1 and have been well proved4 ,in very cold weather1 the salt may be applied quite warm to the meat3 it should always be perfectly dry1 and reduced to powder4 ,saltpetre hardens and renders the meat indigestible2 sugar1 on the contrary1 mellows and improves it much2 and it is more tender when cured with bay salt than when common salt is used for it4 ,,to ,,salt ,,and ,,boil ,a ,,round ,,of ,,beef4 ,mix an ounce of saltpetre1 finely powdered1 with half a pound of very coarse sugar1 and rub the beef thoroughly with them2 in two days add three quarters of a pound of common salt1 well dried and beaten2 turn and rub the meat well in every part with the pickle for three weeks1 when it will be fit to dress4 ,just wash off the salt1 and skewer the beef as round and as even as possible2 bind it tightly with broad tape1 cover it with cold water1 place it over a rather brisk fire1 and after it boils draw it to the side of the stove and let it simmer gently for at least five hours4 ,carrots1 mashed turnips1 or cabbages1 are usually served with boiled beef2 and horseradish stewed for ten minutes in equal parts of vinegar and water1 then pressed well from them1 and mixed with some rich melted butter1 is a good sauce for it4 ,beef1 #bj lbs42 coarse sugar1 #a_/b lb42 saltpetre1 #a oz43 #b days4 ,salt1 #c_/d lb43 #ba days4 ,boil #e hours1 or more4 ,obs4--,beef cured by this receipt if properly boiled1 is tender1 of good colour and flavour1 and not over salt4 ,the rump1 edgebone1 and brisket may be salted1 or pickled in the same way as the round4 ,,hamburgh ,,pickle ,,for ,,beef1 ,,hams1 ,,and ,,tongue4 ,boil together1 for twenty minutes1 two gallons of water1 three pounds of bay salt1 two pounds of coarse sugar1 two ounces of saltpetre1 and two of black pepper1 bruised1 and tied in a fold of muslin2 clear off the scum thoroughly1 as it rises1 pour the pickle into a deep earthen pan1 and when it is quite cold lay in the meat1 of which every part must be perfectly covered with it4 ,a moderate-sized round of beef will be ready for table in a fortnight2 it should be turned occasionally in the brine4 ,five pounds of common salt may be substituted for the quantity of bay salt given above2 but the meat will not be so finely flavoured4 ,water1 #b gallons2 bay-salt1 #c lbs42 saltpetre1 #b oz42 black pepper1 #b oz42 sugar1 #b lbs43 #bj minutes4 ,,another ,,pickle ,,for ,,tongues1 ,,beef1 ,,and ,,hams4 ,to three gallons of spring water add six pounds of common salt1 two pounds of bay-salt1 two pounds of common loaf sugar1 and two ounces of saltpetre4 ,boil these over a gentle fire1 and be careful to take off all the scum as it rises3 when quite cold it will be fit for use4 ,rub the meat to be cured1 with fine salt1 and let it drain for a day in order to free it from the blood2 then immerse it in the brine1 taking care that every part of it shall be covered4 ,young pork should not remain more than from three to five days in the pickle2 but hams for drying may be left in it for a fortnight at least2 tongues will be ready in rather less time4 ,beef may remain from one week to two1 according to its size1 and the degree of saltness desired for it4 ,a little experience will soon teach the exact time required for the different kinds of meat4 ,when the pickle has been in use for about three months1 boil it up again gently1 and take the scum carefully off4 ,add to it three pounds of common salt1 four ounces of sugar1 and one of saltpetre3 it will remain good for many months4 ,water1 #c gallons2 common salt1 #f lbs42 bay salt1 #b lbs42 loaf sugar1 #b lbs42 saltpetre1 #b oz43 boil #bj to #cj minutes4 ,,dutch1 ,,or ,,hung ,,beef4 ,for fourteen pounds weight of the round1 the rump1 or the thick flank of beef1 mix two ounces of saltpetre with the same quantity of coarse sugar2 rub the meat with them in every part1 and let it remain for two days1 then add one pound of bay salt1 four ounces of common salt1 and one ounce of ground black pepper4 ,rub these ingredients thoroughly into the beef1 and in four days pour over it a pound of treacle2 rub and turn it daily for a fortnight2 drain1 and send it to be smoked4 ,when wanted for table1 put it into plenty of boiling water1 boil it slowly1 and press it under a heavy weight while hot4 ,a slice of this beef1 from which the edges have been carefully trimmed1 will serve to flavour soups or gravies as well as ham4 ,beef1 #ad lbs42 saltpetre and coarse sugar1 each #b oz43 #b days4 ,bay salt1 #a lb42 common salt1 #d oz43 pepper1 #a oz43 #d days4 ,treacle1 #a lb43 #ad days4 ,obs4--,three quarters of a pound of coarse sugar may be rubbed into the meat at first1 and the treacle may be altogether omitted2 cloves and mace1 too1 may be added in the same proportion as for spiced beef4 ,,collared ,,beef4 ,only the thinnest part of the flank1 or the ribs1 which are not so generally used for it1 will serve conveniently for collaring4 ,the first of these should be hung in a damp place for a day or two1 to soften the outer skin2 then rubbed with coarse sugar1 and left for a couple of days2 when1 for eight pounds of the meat1 one ounce of saltpetre and half a pound of salt should be added4 ,in ten days it will be fit to dress4 ,the bones and tough inner skin must be removed1 and the beef sprinkled thickly on the under side with parsley and other savoury herbs shred small1 before it is rolled1 which should be done very tightly3 it must then be secured with a cloth1 and bound as closely as possible with broad tape4 ,it will require nearly or quite five hours of gentle boiling1 and should be placed while hot under a weight1 or in a press1 without having the tape and cloth removed4 ,beef1 #h lbs42 sugar1 #c oz42 salt1 #h oz43 #aj days4 ,boil #e hours4 ,,collared ,,beef4 7,another way47 ,mix half an ounce of saltpetre with the same quantity of pepper1 four ounces of bay salt1 and four of common salt2 with these rub well from six to seven pounds of the thin flank1 and in four days add seven ounces of treacle2 turn the beef daily in the pickle for a week or more2 dip it into water1 bone it and skin the inside1 roll and bind it up very tightly1 lay it into cold water1 and boil it for three hours and a half4 ,we have found beef dressed by this receipt extremely good3 herbs can1 of course1 be added to it as usual4 ,spices and juniper berries would to many tastes improve it1 but we give the receipt simply as we have been accustomed to have it used4 ,thin flank1 #f to #g lbs42 bay salt1 and common salt1 each #d oz42 saltpetre1 #a_/b oz42 pepper1 #a_/b oz43 #d days4 ,treacle1 #g oz43 #h to #aj days4 ,boiled #c-a_/b hours4 ,a ,,common ,,receipt ,,for ,,salting ,,beef4 ,one ounce of saltpetre1 and a pound of common salt1 will be sufficient for sixteen pounds of beef4 ,both should be well dried1 and finely powdered2 the saltpetre rubbed first equally over the meat1 and the salt next applied in every part4 ,it should be rubbed thoroughly with the pickle and turned daily1 from a week to ten days4 ,an ounce or two of sugar mixed with the saltpetre will render the beef more tender and palatable4 ,beef1 #af lbs42 saltpetre1 #a oz42 salt1 #a lb43 #g to #aj days4 ,,spiced ,,round ,,of ,,beef4 7,very highly flavoured47 ,rub the beef well in every part with half a pound of coarse brown sugar1 and let it remain two days2 then reduce to powder1 and mix thoroughly before they are applied to the meat1 two ounces of saltpetre1 three quarters of a pound of common salt1 a quarter of a pound of black pepper1 three ounces of allspice1 and four of bruised juniper-berries4 ,rub these ingredients strongly and equally over the joint1 and do so daily for three weeks1 turning it at the same time4 ,just wash off the spice1 and put the beef into a tin1 or covered earthen pan as nearly of its size as possible1 with a cup of water or gravy2 cover the top thickly with chopped beef-suet1 and lay a coarse thick crust over the pan2 place the cover on it1 and bake the meat from five to six hours in a moderate oven1 which should not1 however1 be sufficiently fierce to harden the outside of the joint1 which1 if properly managed will be exceedingly tender4 ,let it cool in the pan2 and clear off the suet before it is dished4 ,it is to be served cold1 and will remain good for a fortnight4 ,beef1 #bj to #be lbs4 weight2 sugar1 #c oz43 #b days4 ,saltpetre1 #b oz42 common salt1 #c_/d lb42 black pepper1 #d oz42 allspice1 #c oz42 juniper-berries1 #d oz43 #ba days4 ,baked #e to #f hours4 ,obs4--,we have not ourselves tested this receipt1 but the meat cured by it has received such high commendation from several of our friends who have partaken of it frequently1 that we think we may safely insert it without4 ,the proportion of allspice appears to us more than would be agreeable to many tastes1 and we would rather recommend that part of it should be omitted1 and that a portion of nutmeg1 mace1 and cloves1 should be substituted for it2 as we have found these spices to answer well in the following receipt4 ,,spiced ,,beef4 7,good and wholesome47 ,for twelve pounds of the round1 rump1 or thick flank of beef1 take a large teaspoonful of freshly-pounded mace1 and of ground black pepper1 twice as much of cloves1 one small nutmeg1 and a quarter of a teaspoonful of cayenne1 all in the finest powder4 ,mix them well with seven ounces of brown sugar1 rub the beef with them and let it lie three days2 add to it then half a pound of fine salt1 and rub and turn it once in twenty-four hours for twelve days4 ,just wash1 but do not soak it2 skewer1 or bind it into good form1 put it into a stewpan or saucepan nearly of its size1 pour to it a pint and a half of good beef broth1 and when it begins to boil1 take off the scum1 and throw in one small onion1 a moderate-sized faggot of thyme and parsley1 and two large1 or four small carrots4 ,let it simmer quite softly for four hours and a half1 and if not wanted to serve hot1 leave it in its own liquor until it is nearly cold4 ,this is an excellent and far more wholesome dish than the hard1 bright-coloured beef which is cured with large quantities of salt and saltpetre3 two or three ounces of juniper-berries may be added to it with the spice1 to heighten its flavour4 ,beef1 #ab lbs42 sugar1 #g oz42 mace and black pepper1 each1 #a large teaspoonful2 cloves1 in powder1 #a large dessertspoonful2 nutmeg1 #a2 cayenne1 #a_/d teaspoonful3 #c days4 ,fine salt1 #a_/b lb43 #ab days4 ,beef broth 7or bouillon71 #a-a_/b pint2 onion1 #a small2 bunch of herbs2 carrots1 #b large1 or #d small3 stewed #d-a_/b hours4 ,obs4--,we give this receipt exactly as we have often had it used1 but celery and turnips might be added to the gravy2 and when the appearance of the meat is much considered1 three-quarters of an ounce of saltpetre may be mixed with the spices2 the beef may also be plainly boiled in water only1 with a few vegetables1 or baked in a deep pan with a little gravy4 ,no meat must ever be left to cool in the stewpan or saucepan in which it is cooked2 it must be lifted into a pan of its own depth1 and the liquor poured upon it4 ,a ,,miniature ,,round ,,of ,,beef4 8,select a fine rib of beef1 and have it cut small or large in width according to your taste2 it may thus be made to weigh from five to twelve pounds1 or more4 ,take out the bone1 and wrap the meat round like a fillet of veal1 securing it with two or three wooden skewers2 place it in a strong pickle for four or five days1 and then cook it1 taking care that it does not boil1 but only simmers1 from forty minutes1 or more1 according to its size4 ,it is best to put it on in hot water1 as it will not draw the gravy so much as cold4 ,many persons adjust a rib of beef in this way for roasting3 let them try it salted1 and they need not envy the possessor of the finest round of beef40 ,we give the receipt to our readers in its original form1 and we can assure them1 from our own experience1 that it is a good one2 but we would recommend that1 in dressing the meat1 quite the usual time for each pound of it should be allowed4 ,when boned and rolled at the butcher's1 the skewers should be removed when it is first brought in2 it should be well wiped with a dry cloth1 or washed with a little fresh brine1 and a small quantity of salt and saltpetre should be rubbed over the inside1 it may then be firmly bound with tape1 and will be quite ready to boil when taken from the pickle4 ,the sirloin1 after the inside fillet is removed1 may be cured and dressed in the same way1 and will be found super-excellent if the beef be well fatted and properly kept4 ,the ,hamburgh pickle 7see page #aig7 is perhaps the best for these joints4 ,part of the rump1 taken clear of bone1 answers admirably when prepared by this receipt4 ,,beef ,,roll1 ,,or ,,canellon ,,de ,b,,uf4 7,,entr,e47 ,chop and mix thoroughly two pounds of lean and very tender beef with one pound of slightly striped bacon2 season them with a large teaspoonful of pepper1 a little salt1 a small nutmeg1 or two-thirds as much mace1 the grated rind of a lemon1 or a teaspoonful of thyme and parsley finely minced4 ,form the whole into a thick rouleau1 wrap a buttered paper round it1 enclose it in a paste made of flour and water1 and send it to a moderate oven for a couple of hours4 ,remove the paper and the crust1 and serve the meat with a little brown gravy4 ,lamb and veal are excellent dressed in this way1 particularly when mixed with plenty of mushrooms4 ,brown cucumber sauce should be served with the lamb2 and currie1 or oyster sauce1 when there are no mushrooms1 with the veal4 ,a flavouring of onion or of eschalot1 where it is liked1 can be added at pleasure to the beef3 suet1 or the fat of the meat1 may be substituted for the bacon4 ,beef1 #b lbs42 bacon1 #a lb42 pepper1 #a_/d oz42 little salt2 small nutmeg2 rind of #a lemon1 or savoury herbs1 #a tablespoonful3 baked #b hours4 ,,minced ,,collops ,,au ,,naturel4 ,mince finely a pound of very tender rump steak1 free from fat or skin2 season it with a moderate quantity of pepper and salt1 set it over a gentle fire1 and keep it stirred with a fork until it is quite hot that it may not gather into lumps4 ,simmer it very slowly in its own gravy from ten to twelve minutes1 and then1 should it be too dry1 add a little boiling water1 broth1 or gravy2 stew it for two minutes longer1 and serve it directly4 ,these collops are particularly suited to persons in delicate health1 or of weak digestion2 and when an extra dish is required at a short notice1 from the expedition with which they may be dressed1 they are a convenient resource4 #aj to #ab minutes4 ,,savoury ,,minced ,,collops4 ,make a little thickening 7see ,brown ,roux1 ,chapter ,v47 with about an ounce and a half of butter1 and a dessertspoonful of flour2 when it begins to be coloured1 shake lightly into it a large teaspoonful of finely-shred parsley or mixed savoury herbs1 two-thirds as much of salt1 and half the quantity of pepper4 ,keep these stirred over a gentle fire until the thickening is of a deep yellow brown2 then add a pound of rump-steak1 finely minced1 and keep it well separated with a fork until it is quite hot2 next pour to it gradually half a cupful of boiling water1 and stew the collops very gently for ten minutes4 ,before they are served1 stir to them a little catsup1 chili vinegar or lemon-juice3 a small quantity of minced onion1 eschalot1 or a particle of garlic1 may be added at first to the thickening when the flavour is not objected to4 ,a ,,richer ,,variety ,,of ,,minced ,,collops4 ,omit the minced herbs from the thickening1 and season it with cayenne and a small quarter of a teaspoonful of pounded mace4 ,substitute beef gravy for the boiling water1 and when the collops are nearly done1 fill a wineglass with one fourth of mushroom catsup1 and three of port wine1 and stir these to the meat4 ,serve the collops very hot1 and garnish them with alternate forcemeat balls 7see ,no4 #a1 ,chapter ,,viii47 and fried sippets4 ,if flavoured with a little gravy made from the bones of a roast hare1 and served with currant jelly1 these collops will scarcely be distinguished from game4 ,,scotch ,,minced ,,collops4 8,chop the beef small1 season it with salt and pepper1 put it1 in its raw state1 into small jars1 and pour on the top some clarified butter4 ,when wanted for use put the clarified butter into a frying-pan1 and slice some onions into the pan and fry them4 ,add a little water to them1 and put in the minced meat4 ,stew it well1 and in a few minutes it will be fit to serve40 ,,beef ,,tongues4 ,these may be cured by any of the receipts which we have already given for pickling beef1 or for those which will be found further on for hams and bacon4 ,some persons prefer them cured with salt and saltpetre only1 and dried naturally in a cool and airy room4 ,for such of our readers as like them highly and richly flavoured we give our own method of having them prepared1 which is this3--8,rub over the tongue a handful of fine salt1 and let it drain until the following day2 then1 should it weigh from seven to eight pounds1 mix thoroughly an ounce of saltpetre1 two ounces of the coarsest sugar1 and half an ounce of black pepper2 when the tongue has been well rubbed with these1 add three ounces of bruised juniper-berries2 and when it has laid two days1 eight ounces of bay salt1 dried and pounded2 at the end of three days more1 pour on it half a pound of treacle1 and let it remain in the pickle a fortnight after this2 then hang it to drain1 fold it in brown paper1 and send it to be smoked over a wood fire for two or three weeks4 ,should the peculiar flavour of the juniper-berries prevail too much1 or be disapproved1 they may be in part1 or altogether1 omitted2 and six ounces of sugar may be rubbed into the tongue in the first instance when it is liked better than treacle40 ,tongue1 #g to #h lbs42 saltpetre1 #a oz42 black pepper1 #a_/b oz42 sugar1 #b oz42 juniper-berries1 #c oz43 #b days4 ,bay salt1 #h oz43 #c days4 ,treacle1 #a_/b lb43 #ad days4 ,obs4--,before the tongue is salted1 the root end1 which has an unsightly appearance1 should be trimmed away3 it is indeed usual to take it off entirely1 but some families prefer part of it left on for the sake of the fat4 ,,beef ,,tongues4 7,a ,suffolk ,receipt47 ,for each very large tongue1 mix with half a pound of salt two ounces of saltpetre and three quarters of a pound of the coarsest sugar2 rub the tongues daily1 and turn them in the pickle for five weeks1 when they will be fit to be dressed1 or to be smoked4 #a large tongue2 salt1 #a_/b lb42 sugar1 #c_/d lb42 saltpetre1 #b oz43 #e weeks4 ,,to ,,dress ,,beef ,,tongues4 ,when taken fresh from the pickle they require no soaking1 unless they should have remained in it much beyond the usual time1 or have been cured with a more than common proportion of salt2 but when they have been smoked and highly dried1 they should be laid for two or three hours into cold1 and as much longer into tepid water1 before they are dressed3 if extremely dry1 ten or twelve hours must be allowed to soften them1 and they should always be brought very slowly to boil4 ,two or three carrots and a large bunch of savoury herbs1 added after the scum is cleared off1 will improve them4 ,they should be simmered until they are extremely tender1 when the skin will peel from them easily4 ,a highly dried tongue of moderate size will usually require from three and a half to four hours' boiling2 an unsmoked one about an hour less2 and for one which has not been salted at all a shorter time will suffice4 ,,bordyke ,,receipt ,,for ,,stewing ,a ,,tongue4 ,after the tongue has been soaked1 trimmed1 and washed with extreme nicety1 lay it into a vessel of fitting size1 and place round it three or four pounds of the neck1 or of any other lean cuttings of beef1 with some bones of undressed veal1 and pour in sufficient cold water to keep it covered until it is done2 or1 instead of this1 use strong unseasoned beef broth made with the shin1 and any odd bits or bones of veal which may be at hand4 ,let the tongue be brought to boil very gradually1 that it may be plump and tender4 ,remove the scum when it first rises1 and when it is quite cleared off add a large faggot of parsley1 thyme1 and winter savoury1 three carrots1 a small onion1 and one mild turnip4 ,after three hours and a half of gentle simmering1 probe the tongue1 and if sufficiently done peel off the skin and serve it quickly4 ,if not wanted hot for table1 lay it upon a very clean board or trencher1 and fasten it down to it by passing a carving fork through the root1 and a smaller one through the tip1 drawing the tongue straight with the latter before it is fixed in the board2 let it remain thus until it is quite cold4 ,it is much the fashion at present to glaze hams and tongues1 but this should never be attempted by a cook not well acquainted with the manner of doing it1 and the proper flavour and appearance of the glaze4 ,for directions to make it1 see page #ajd4 ,where expense is not regarded1 three or four pounds of veal may be added to the beef in this receipt1 or the tongue may be stewed in a prepared gravy made with equal parts of beef and veal1 and vegetables as above1 but without salt3 this may afterwards be converted into excellent soup4 ,a fresh or an unsmoked tongue may be dressed in this way1 but will require less time3 for the former1 salt must be added to the gravy4 ,,to ,,roast ,a ,,beef ,,heart4 ,wash and soak the heart very thoroughly1 cut away the lobes1 fill the cavities with a veal forcemeat 7,no4 #a1 ,chapter ,,viii471 secure it well with a needle and twine1 or very coarse thread1 and roast it at a good fire for an hour and a half1 keeping it basted plentifully with butter4 ,pour melted butter over it1 after it is dished1 and send it to table as hot as possible4 ,many persons boil the heart for three quarters of an hour before it is put to the fire1 and this is said to render it more delicate eating2 the time of roasting must of course be proportionately diminished4 ,good brown gravy may be substituted for the melted butter1 and currant jelly also may be served with it4 #a-a_/b hour1 or more4 ,,beef ,,kidney4 ,slice the kidney rather thin1 after having stripped off the skin and removed the fat2 season it with pepper1 salt1 and grated nutmeg1 and sprinkle over it plenty of minced parsley1 or equal parts of parsley and eschalots chopped very small4 ,fry the slices over a brisk fire1 and when nicely browned on both sides1 stir amongst them a teaspoonful of flour1 and pour in by degrees a cup of gravy and a glass of white wine2 bring the sauce to the point of boiling1 add a morsel of fresh butter and a tablespoonful of lemon-juice1 and pour the whole into a hot dish garnished with fried bread4 ,this is a ,french receipt1 and a very excellent one4 ,,beef ,,kidney4 7,a plainer way47 ,trim1 and cut the kidney into slices2 season them with salt and pepper1 and dredge them well with flour2 fry them on both sides1 and when they are done through lift them out1 empty the pan1 and make gravy for them with a small slice of butter1 a dessertspoonful of flour1 pepper and salt1 and a cup of boiling water2 shake these round and give them a minute's simmering3 add a little mushroom catsup1 lemon juice1 eschalot vinegar1 or any store sauce that will give a good flavour4 ,minced herbs are to many tastes an improvement to this dish1 to which a small quantity of onion shred fine can be added when it is liked4 #f to #i minutes4 ,,an ,,excellent ,,hash ,,of ,,cold ,,beef4 ,put a slice of butter into a thick saucepan1 and when it boils throw in a dessertspoonful of minced herbs1 and an onion 7or two or three eschalots7 shred small3 shake them over the fire until they are lightly browned1 then stir in a tablespoonful of flour1 a little cayenne1 some mace or nutmeg1 and half a teaspoonful of salt4 ,when the whole is well coloured1 pour to it three-quarters of a pint or more of broth or gravy1 according to the quantity of meat to be served in it4 ,let this boil gently for fifteen minutes2 then strain it1 add half a wineglassful of mushroom or of compound catsup1 lay in the meat1 and keep it by the side of the fire until it is heated through and is on the point of simmering1 but be sure not to let it boil4 ,serve it up in a very hot dish1 and garnish it with fried or toasted sippets of bread4 ,a ,,common ,,hash ,,of ,,cold ,,beef ,,or ,,mutton4 ,take the meat from the bones1 slice it small1 trim off the brown edges1 and stew down the trimmings with the bones well broken1 an onion1 a bunch of thyme and parsley1 a carrot cut into thick slices1 a few peppercorns1 four cloves1 some salt1 and a pint and a half of water4 ,when this is reduced to little more than three quarters of a pint1 strain it1 clear it from the fat1 thicken it with a large dessertspoonful of rice flour1 or rather less of arrow-root1 add salt and pepper if needed1 boil the whole for a few minutes1 then lay in the meat and heat it well4 ,boiled potatoes are sometimes sliced hot into a very common hash4 ,obs4--,the cook should be reminded that if the meat in a hash or mince be allowed to boil1 it will immediately become hard1 and can then only be rendered eatable by very long stewing1 which is by no means desirable for meat which is already sufficiently cooked4 ,,breslaw ,,of ,,beef4 7,good47 ,trim the brown edges from half a pound of undressed roast beef1 shred it small1 and mix it with four ounces of fine bread-crumbs1 a teaspoonful of minced parley1 and two-thirds as much of thyme1 two ounces of butter broken small1 half a cupful of gravy or cream1 a high seasoning of pepper and cayenne and mace or nutmeg1 a small teaspoonful of salt1 and three large eggs well whisked4 ,melt a little butter in a deep dish1 pour in the beef1 and bake it half an hour2 turn it out1 and send it to table with brown gravy in a tureen4 ,when cream or gravy is not at hand1 an additional egg or two and rather more butter must be used4 ,we think that grated lemon-rind improves the breslaw4 ,a portion of fat from the joint can be added where it is liked4 ,the mixture is sometimes baked in buttered cups4 ,beef1 #a_/b lb42 bread-crumbs1 #d oz42 butter1 #b oz42 gravy or cream1 #a_/b cupful2 parsley1 #a teaspoonful2 thyme1 two-thirds of teaspoonful2 eggs1 #c or #d1 if small2 salt1 #a teaspoonful2 pepper and nutmeg1 #a_/b teaspoonful each3 bake #a_/b hour4 ,,norman ,,hash4 ,peel and fry two dozens of button onions in butter until they are lightly browned1 then stir to them a tablespoonful of flour1 and when the whole is of a deep amber shade1 pour in a wineglassful and a half of red wine1 and a large cup of boiling broth or water2 add a seasoning of salt and common pepper or cayenne1 and a little lemon-pickle catsup or lemon-juice1 and boil the whole until the onions are quite tender2 cut and trim into small handsome slices the remains of either a roast or boiled joint of beef1 and arrange them in a clean saucepan2 pour the gravy and onions on them1 and let them stand for awhile to imbibe the flavour of the sauce2 then place the hash near the fire1 and when it is thoroughly hot serve it immediately1 without allowing it to boil4 ,,french ,,receipt ,,for ,,hashed ,,bouilli4 ,shake over a slow fire a bit of butter the size of an egg1 and a tablespoonful of flour2 when they have simmered for a minute1 stir to them a little finely-chopped onion1 and a dessertspoonful of minced parsley2 so soon as the whole is equally browned1 add sufficient pepper1 salt1 and nutmeg to season the hash properly1 and from half to three quarters of a pint of boiling water or of bouillon4 ,put in the beef cut into small but thick slices2 let it stand by the fire and heat gradually2 and when near the point of boiling thicken the sauce with the yolks of three eggs1 mixed with a tablespoonful of lemon-juice4 ,for change1 omit the eggs1 and substitute a tablespoonful of catsup1 and another of pickled gherkins minced or sliced4 ,,baked ,,minced ,,beef4 ,mince tolerably fine1 with a moderate proportion of its own fat1 as much of the inside of a cold roast joint as will suffice for a dish3 that which is least done is best for the purpose4 ,season it rather highly with cayenne and mace or nutmeg1 and moderately with salt2 add1 when they are liked1 one or two eschalots minced small1 with a few chopped mushrooms either fresh or pickled1 or two tablespoonsful of mushroom catsup4 ,mix the whole well with a cupful of good gravy1 and put it into a deep dish4 ,place on the top an inch-thick layer of bread-crumbs1 moisten these plentifully with clarified butter passed through a small strainer over them1 and send the mince to a slow oven for twenty minutes1 or brown it in a ,dutch oven4 ,,saunders4 ,spread on the dish in which the saunders are to be served1 a layer of smoothly mashed potatoes1 which have been seasoned with salt and mixed with about an ounce of butter to the pound4 ,on these spread equally and thickly some underdressed beef or mutton minced and mixed with a little of the gravy that has run from the joint1 or with a few spoonsful of any other2 and season it with salt1 pepper1 and a small quantity of nutmeg4 ,place evenly over this another layer of potatoes1 and send the dish to a moderate oven for half an hour4 ,a very superior kind of saunders is made by substituting fresh meat for roasted2 but this requires to be baked an hour or something more4 ,sausage-meat highly seasoned may be served in this way1 instead of beef or mutton4 ,,to ,,boil ,,marrow ,,bones4 ,let the large ends of the bones be sawed by the butcher1 so that when they are dished they may stand upright2 and if it can be done conveniently1 let them be placed in the same manner in the vessel in which they are boiled4 ,put a bit of paste1 made with flour and water1 over the ends where the marrow is visible1 and tie a cloth tightly over them2 take the paste off before the bones are sent to table1 and serve them1 placed upright in a napkin1 with slices of dry toasted bread apart4 ,when not wanted for immediate use1 they may be partially boiled1 and set into a cool place1 where they will remain good for many days4 ,large marrow bones1 #b hours2 moderate sized1 #a-a_/b hour4 ,to keep2 boil them #a-a_/b hour1 and from #a_/b to #c_/d hour more when wanted for table4 ,,baked ,,marrow ,,bones4 ,when the bones have been sawed to the length of a deep pie-dish1 wash and wipe them dry1 lay them into it1 and cover them entirely with a good batter4 ,send them to a moderate oven for an hour or more1 and serve them in the batter4 ,,clarified ,,marrow ,,for ,,keeping4 ,take the marrow from the bones while it is as fresh as possible2 cut it small1 put it into a very clean jar1 and melt it with a gentle heat1 either in a pan of water placed over the fire1 or at the mouth of a cool oven2 strain it through a muslin1 let it settle for a minute or two1 and pour it1 clear of sediment1 into small jars4 ,tie skins1 or double folds of thick paper1 over them as soon as the marrow is cold1 and store it in a cool place4 ,it will remain good for months4 ,,ox-,,cheek ,,stuffed ,,and ,,baked4 7,good1 and not expensive47 ,cleanse1 with the greatest nicety1 a fresh ox-cheek by washing1 scraping it lightly with a knife1 and soaking out the blood2 then put it into plenty of warm water1 and boil it gently for about an hour4 ,throw in a large teaspoonful of salt1 and carefully remove all the scum as it rises to the surface4 ,let it cool after it is lifted out1 and then take away the bones1 remembering always to work the knife close to them1 and to avoid piercing the skin4 ,when the cheek has become cold1 put into it a good roll of forcemeat1 made by the receipt ,nos4 #a1 #b1 or #c1 of ,chapter ,,ix41 or substitute the oyster or mushroom forcemeat which follows2 but in any case increase the quantity one-half at least3 then skewer or bind up the cheek securely1 and send it to a moderate oven for an hour or an hour and a half4 ,it should be baked until it is exceedingly tender quite through4 ,drain it well from fat1 dish it1 withdraw the skewers1 or unbind it gently1 and either sauce it with a little good brown gravy1 or send it to table with melted butter in a tureen1 a cut lemon1 and cayenne1 or with any sauce of ,chapter ,v41 which may be considered more appropriate4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,chapter ,,xi4 ,veal4 ,illustration ,no4 #a4 ,loin1 ,best ,end4 #b4 ,loin1 ,chump ,end4 #c4 ,fillet4 #d4 ,hind ,knuckle4 #e4 ,fore ,knuckle4 #f4 ,neck1 ,best ,end4 #g4 ,neck1 ,scrag ,end4 #h4 ,blade ,bone4 #i4 ,breast1 ,best ,end4 #aj4 ,breast1 ,brisket ,end4 ,in season all the year1 but scarce and expensive in mid-winter1 and very early spring4 ,,to ,,choose ,,veal4 ,,veal should be fat1 finely grained1 white1 firm1 and not overgrown3 for when very large it is apt to be coarse and tough4 ,it is more difficult to keep than any other meat except pork1 and should never be allowed to acquire the slightest taint before it is dressed1 as any approach to putridity renders it equally unwholesome and offensive to the taste4 ,the fillet1 the loin1 the shoulder1 and the best end of the neck1 are the parts generally selected for roasting2 the breast and knuckle are more usually stewed or boiled1 although the former is excellent roasted4 ,the udder or firm white fat of the fillet1 is much used by ,french cooks instead of butter1 in the composition of their forcemeats3 for these1 it is first well boiled1 then left until quite cold1 and afterwards thoroughly pounded before it is mixed with the other ingredients4 ,the head and feet of the calf are valuable articles of food1 both for the nutriment which the gelatinous parts of them afford1 and for the great variety of modes in which they may be dressed4 ,the kidneys1 with the rich fat that surrounds them1 and the sweetbreads1 are well known delicacies2 the liver and the heart also are very good eating2 and no meat is so generally useful for rich soups and gravies as veal4 ,,to ,,take ,,the ,,hair ,,from ,a ,,calf',s ,,head ,,with ,,the ,,skin ,,on4 ,it is better to do this before the head is divided2 but if only the half of one with the skin on can be procured1 it must be managed in the same way4 ,put it into plenty of water which is on the point of simmering but which does not positively boil1 and let it remain in until it does so1 and for five or six minutes afterwards1 but at the first full bubble draw it from the fire and let it merely scald2 then lift it out1 and with a knife that is not sharp scrape off the hair as closely as possible4 ,the butchers have an instrument on purpose for the operation2 but we have had the head look quite as well when done in the manner we have just described1 as when it has been sent in ready prepared by them4 ,after the hair is off1 the head should be well washed1 and if it cannot be cooked the same day1 it must be wiped extremely dry before it is hung up2 and when it has not been divided1 it should be left whole until the time approaches for dressing it4 ,the brain must then be taken out1 and both that and the head well soaked and washed with the greatest nicety4 ,when the half head only is scalded1 the brain should first be removed4 ,calves' feet are freed from the hair easily in the same manner2 indeed1 we find it a better mode of having it cleared from them than the one we have given in ,chapter ,,xxii41 though that is practised by many good butchers4 ,,boiled ,,calf',s ,,head4 ,when the head is dressed with the skin on1 which many persons prefer1 the ear must be cut off quite close to it2 it will require three quarters of an hour or upwards of additional boiling1 and should be served covered with fried crumbs3 the more usual mode1 however1 is to boil it without the skin4 ,in either case first remove the brain1 wash the head delicately clean1 and soak it for a quarter of an hour2 cover it plentifully with cold water1 remove the scum as it rises with great care1 throw in a little salt1 and boil the head gently until it is perfectly tender4 ,in the mean time1 wash and soak the brains first in cold and then in warm water1 remove the skin or film1 boil them in a small saucepan from fourteen to sixteen minutes1 according to their sage1 and when they are done1 chop and mix them with eight or ten size leaves boiled tender and finely minced2 or1 if preferred1 with boiled parsley instead2 warm them in a spoonful or two of melted butter1 or white sauce2 skin the tongue1 trim off the root1 and serve it in a small dish with the brains round it4 ,send the head to table very hot with parsley and butter poured over it1 and some more in a tureen4 ,a cheek of bacon1 or very delicate pickled pork1 is the usual accompaniment to boiled calf's head4 ,we have given here the common ,english mode of serving this dish1 by some persons considered the best1 and by others1 as exceedingly insipid4 ,on the continent1 tomata sauce takes place of the parsley and butter2 and rich oyster or ,dutch sauce1 are varieties often substituted for it in this country4 ,with the skin on1 from #b-a_/d to #b-c_/d hours2 without the skin1 from #a-a_/d to #a-c_/d hour4 ,,calf',s ,,head1 ,,the ,,warder',s ,,way4 7,an excellent ,receipt47 ,boil the half-head until tolerably tender2 let it cool1 and bone it entirely2 replace the brain1 lay the head into a stewpan1 and simmer it gently for an hour in rich gravy4 ,from five-and-twenty to thirty minutes before it is dished1 add half a pint of mushroom-buttons4 ,thicken the gravy1 if needful1 with rice flour or with flour and butter1 and serve plenty of forcemeat-balls round the head4 ,for dishes of this kind1 a little sweet-basil wine1 or a few sprigs of the herb itself1 impart a very agreeable flavour4 ,when neither these nor mushrooms are within reach1 the very thin rind of a small but fresh lemon may be boiled in the gravy1 and the strained juice added at the instant of serving4 ,boiled from #a to #b hours2 stewed #a hour4 ,obs4--,the skin1 with the ear1 may be left on the head for this receipt1 and the latter slit into narrow strips from the tip to within an inch and a half of the base2 which will give it a feathery and ornamental appearance1 the head may then be glazed or not at pleasure4 ,,prepared ,,calf',s ,,head4 7,the ,cook's ,receipt47 ,take away the brains and tongue from the half of a calf's head1 and then remove the bones1 being careful in doing so to keep the knife as close to them as possible1 and to avoid piercing the outer skin3 in this consists the whole art of boning1 in which an attentive cook may easily render herself expert4 ,next wash the head and dry it in a clean cloth2 sprinkle over the inside a little pounded mace1 and cayenne or white pepper2 roll it up tightly1 and bind it round with tape or twine4 ,lay into a small stewpot three or four pounds of neck of veal or of beef1 twice or thrice divided1 and place the head upon it with the bones well broken2 pour in half a gallon of cold water1 or as much as will suffice to keep the head covered until it is done1 and simmer it very gently from an hour and a quarter to an hour and three quarters4 ,when it is extremely tender1 lift it out1 and if wanted for table1 remove the binding1 and serve it very hot1 with currie sauce1 rich oyster sauce1 or egg sauce and brown gravy2 but should the remains1 or the whole of it be required for the following receipts1 pour no gravy over it3 in the latter case do not take off the tape for several hours4 ,the tongue may be stewed with the head1 but will require rather less time4 ,we do not think it needful to repeat in every receipt our directions for adding salt to1 and removing carefully the scum from1 meat that is stewed or boiled1 but the cook must not neglect either4 ,when the trouble of boning is objected to1 it can be dispensed with for some of the dishes which follow1 but not for all4 ,after the head is taken out1 boil the gravy until it is well reduced1 and rich3 it should be strongly jellied when cold4 ,a bone of ham1 or a slice of hung beef will much improve its flavour2 but vegetables must be avoided if it be wanted to keep3 a little spice and a faggot of parsley may be added to it1 and a calf's foot will be sure to give it the requisite degree of firmness4 ,this receipt is for a head without the skin4 ,,burlington ,,whimsey4 ,set aside until quite cold half a calf's head dressed by the preceding receipt4 ,if1 on cutting it1 the gelatinous part should not appear perfectly tender1 pare it off closely from the head1 weigh1 and mince it2 put it into a pint of good gravy1 and stew it gently from ten to fifteen minutes4 ,mince as much more of the head as will make up a pound in weight after the edges are trimmed off1 and part of the fat is taken away2 add to this three ounces of the lean of a boiled ham finely chopped1 the grated rind of a large lemon1 three teaspoonsful of parsley and one of thyme shred very small1 three quarters of a teaspoonful of mace1 half a small nutmeg grated1 a teaspoonful of salt1 and a half-quarter one of cayenne2 stir the whole well together1 and put it1 with half a pint more of gravy1 to the portion which has been already simmered4 ,when the whimsey has boiled softly from four to five minutes1 pour it into moulds or pans1 in which slices of the tongue have been evenly arranged1 and when quite cold it will turn out very firmly4 ,it may be garnished1 before it is sent to table1 with branches of parsley1 which should1 however1 be perfectly dry2 and when served for supper or luncheon1 it may be accompanied by a salad dressing4 ,calf's head1 #a lb42 lean of ham1 #c oz42 gravy1 #a-a_/b pint2 rind of #a large lemon2 parsley1 #c teaspoonsful2 thyme and salt1 each #a teaspoonful2 mace1 #c_/d teaspoonful2 #a_/b nutmeg2 cayenne1 #a_/h part of teaspoonful3 #e minutes4 ,obs4--,the remains of a plain boiled head may be made to serve for this dish1 provided the gravy used with it be well jellied and of high flavour4 ,slices from the small end of a boiled and smoked ox-tongue1 from their bright colour improve greatly its appearance4 ,it should be tasted before it is poured out1 that salt or any other seasoning may be added if needful4 ,after three or four days' keeping1 should any mould appear upon the surface1 take it off1 re-melt the whimsey1 and give it two minutes' boil4 ,for change1 the herbs may be omitted1 and the quantity of ham increased1 or some minced tongue substituted for it4 ,,cutlets ,,of ,,calf',s ,,head4 ,prepare1 by the ,cook's ,receipt1 half a calf's head with or without the skin on2 only1 in the latter case1 allow more time for the boiling4 ,when it is quite cold1 remove the fillets of tape1 and cut the head into slices of half an inch thick1 brush them with yolk of egg1 and dip them into fine bread-crumbs1 seasoned with the grated rind of half a lemon1 half a teaspoonful of minced savoury herbs1 some cayenne1 and a little of the lean of a boiled ham chopped very small1 should this last be at hand4 ,fry the cutlets in butter of a fine light brown1 make some gravy in the pan as for veal cutlets1 and add to it the juice of half a lemon2 or mix a large teaspoonful of currie-powder1 and one of flour1 very smoothly with the butter1 shake them over the fire for four or five minutes1 and let the gravy simmer as much longer1 after the water is added2 or serve the cutlets1 covered with good mushroom sauce4 ,,hashed ,,calf',s ,,head4 7,,remove47 ,when the whole of this dish has to be prepared1 make for it a quart of stock1 and proceed in all else as directed for mock turtle soup 7page #bd72 but after the head has been parboiled1 cut down a full pound and a half of it for the hash1 and slice it small and thick1 instead of dividing it into dice4 ,make the brains into cakes 7see page #afb71 and garnish the dish with forcemeat-balls1 rolled in egg1 and in the finest bread-crumbs1 then fried a delicate brown1 and well drained1 and dried upon a warm sieve reversed4 ,the wine and other seasonings should be the same as for the soup4 ,rich gravy1 #a quart2 flesh of calf's head1 full #a-a_/b lb42 wine1 and other seasonings1 as for mock turtle soup4 ,obs4--,the gravy for this should be stewed with ham1 eschalots1 c41 exactly as for the soup4 ,,cheap ,,hash ,,of ,,calf',s ,,head4 ,take the flesh from the bone of a cold boiled head1 and put it aside until wanted2 take about three pints of the liquor in which it was cooked2 break the bones1 and stew them down with a small bunch of savoury herbs1 a carrot1 or two should they be small1 a little carefully fried onion1 four cloves1 a dozen corns of pepper1 and either a slice or two of lean ham or of smoked beef4 ,when the liquid is reduced nearly half1 strain it1 take off the fat1 thicken it with a little well made roux1 or1 if more convenient1 with flour and butter1 stirred into it1 when it boils1 or with rice flour or arrow-root1 mixed with a little spice1 mushroom catsup1 or ,harvey's sauce1 and a small quantity of lemon pickle or chili vinegar4 ,heat the meat slowly in the sauce when it is ready1 but do not allow it to boil4 ,the forcemeat1 ,no4 #a1 of ,chapter ,,viii41 may be rolled into balls1 fried1 and served round it4 ,the gravy should be well seasoned4 ,a little of ,liebeg's extract of beef 7see ,chapter ,i471 or as much good beef broth as may be required for the hash1 will convert this into a really good dish4 ,for preparations which are of themselves insipid1 the ,jewish beef1 of which we have often already spoken1 is an admirable addition4 ,,to ,,dress ,,cold ,,calf',s ,,head ,,or ,,veal ,,la ,m,,itre ,d',h,,tel4 7,,good47 7,english ,receipt47 ,cut into small delicate slices1 or into scollops of equal size1 sufficient cold calf's head or veal for a dish4 ,next knead very smoothly together with a knife two ounces of butter1 and a small dessertspoonful of flour2 put these into a stewpan or well tinned saucepan1 and keep them stirred or shaken over a gentle fire until they have simmered for a minute or two1 but do not let them take the slightest colour2 then add to them in very small portions 7letting the sauce boil up after each is poured in7 half a pint of pale veal gravy1 or of good shin-of-beef stock1 and when the whole is very smoothly blended1 and has boiled for a couple of minutes1 mix together and stir to it a tablespoonful of common vinegar1 a dessertspoonful of chili vinegar1 a little cayenne1 a tablespoonful of good mushroom catsup1 and a very small bit of sugar2 and when the sauce again boils1 strew a tablespoonful of minced parsley over the meat1 lay it in1 and let it stand by the fire until it is quite heated through1 but do not allow it to boil3 if kept just at the simmering point for ten or twelve minutes it may be served perfectly hot without4 ,the addition of the mushroom catsup converts this into an ,english sauce1 and renders it in colour1 as well as in flavour1 unlike the ,french one which bears the same name1 and which is acidulated generally with lemon-juice instead of vinegar4 ,pickled mushrooms are sometimes added to the dish3 the parsley when it is objected to may be omitted1 and the yolks of two or three eggs mixed with a little cream may be stirred in1 but not allowed to boil1 just before the meat is served4 ,when veal is used for this hash instead of calf's1 it should be cut into slices not much larger than a shilling1 and freed entirely from fat1 sinew1 and the brown edges4 ,when neither broth nor gravy is at hand1 a morsel or two of lean ham1 and a few of the trimmings or bones of the head or joint1 may be boiled down to supply its place4 ,sufficient cold calf's head1 or meat1 for a dish2 butter1 #b oz42 flour1 #a small dessertspoonful2 gravy1 or strong broth1 #a_/b pint2 vinegar1 and mushroom catsup1 of each #a tablespoonful2 chili vinegar1 #a dessertspoonful2 small bit of sugar2 little cayenne1 and salt if needed2 parsley1 #a tablespoonful 7pickled mushrooms or not at pleasure74 ,obs4--,soles or cod-fish are very good1 if raised neatly from the bones1 or flaked1 and heated in this ,mitre d',htel sauce4 ,,calf',s ,,head ,,brawn4 7,author's ,receipt47 ,the half of a fine large calf's head with the skin on1 will best answer for this brawn4 ,take out the brains1 and bone it entirely1 or get the butcher do this2 rub a little fine salt over1 and leave it to drain for ten or twelve hours2 next wipe it dry1 and rub it well in every part with three quarters of an ounce of saltpetre finely powdered 7or with an ounce should the head be very large7 and mixed with four ounces of common salt1 and three of bay-salt1 also beaten fine2 turn the head daily in this pickle for four or five days1 rubbing it a little each time2 and then pour over it four ounces of treacle1 and continue to turn it every day1 and baste it with the brine very frequently for a month4 ,hang it up for a night to drain1 fold it in brown paper1 and send it to be smoked where wood only is burned1 from three to four weeks4 ,when wanted for table1 wash and scrape it very clean1 but do not soak it2 lay it1 with the rind downwards1 into a saucepan or stewpan1 which will hold it easily2 cover it well with cold water1 as it will swell considerably in the cooking2 let it heat rather slowly1 skim it thoroughly when it first begins to simmer1 and boil it as gently as possible from an hour and three quarters to a couple of hours or more1 should it not then be perfectly tender quite through2 for unless sufficiently boiled1 the skin1 which greatly resembles brawn1 will be unpleasantly tough when cold4 ,when the fleshy side of the head is done1 which will be twenty minutes or half an hour sooner than the outside1 pour the water from it1 leaving so much only in the stewpan as will just cover the gelatinous part1 and simmer it until this is thoroughly tender4 ,the head thus cured is very highly flavoured1 and most excellent eating4 ,the receipt for it is entirely new1 having originated with ourselves4 ,we give the reader1 in addition1 the result of our first experiment with it1 which was entirely successful3--8,a half calf's head1 not very large1 without the skin1 pickled with three ounces of common salt1 two of bay-salt1 half an ounce of saltpetre1 one ounce of brown sugar1 and half an ounce of pepper1 left four days2 then three ounces of treacle added1 and the pickling continued for a month2 smoked nearly as long1 and boiled between one hour and a half1 and two hours40 ,the pepper was omitted in our second trial1 because it did not improve the appearance of the dish1 although it was an advantage in point of flavour4 ,juniper-berries might1 we think1 be added with advantage1 when they are liked2 and cayenne tied in a muslin might supply the place of the pepper4 ,it is an infinite improvement to have the skin of the head left on4 ,,to ,,roast ,a ,,fillet ,,of ,,veal4 ,take out the bone and put a good roll of forcemeat 7,no4 #a1 ,chapter ,,viii47 under the flap1 dividing first1 with a sharp knife1 the skin from the meat sufficiently to admit the quantity required2 secure it well1 truss the veal firmly into good shape1 place it at a distance from the fire at first1 and baste it with butter4 ,the outside will have a richer crust of browning if the meat be washed1 wiped tolerably dry1 and well floured before it is laid to the fire4 ,it should be carefully watched1 and basted often1 that the fat may not burn4 ,pour melted butter over it after it is dished1 and serve with it a boiled cheek of bacon and a lemon4 ,roast it from three hours and a half1 to four hours and a half1 according to its size4 ,,fillet ,,of ,,veal1 ,,au ,b,,chamel1 ,,with ,,oysters4 ,roast1 in the usual way1 a delicate fillet of veal1 and in preparing it for the spit be careful to bind it up tightly1 so that no cavity may be left where the bone has been taken out4 ,while it is at the fire1 plump gently in their own strained liquor1 without allowing them to boil1 half a pint of fine native oysters1 and1 after having freed them from the beards1 set them aside2 then boil the beards for fifteen or twenty minutes in nearly three quarters of a pint of good veal stock1 or in strong veal broth1 made for the purpose2 strain them out1 add the liquor of the oysters1 also passed through a muslin or other fine strainer1 and convert the broth into rich white sauce1 of which there should be a full pint4 ,when the veal is ready to serve1 take it from the spit1 dish it in a very hot dish1 and cut out quickly from the centre in a cup-like form1 about a pound of the meat1 leaving a wide margin round the joint1 to be carved in the usual way4 ,mince1 as rapidly as possible1 the white part of the veal which has been cut from the fillet1 and the plumped oysters2 put the whole into the white sauce1 which should be ready heated1 bring it to the point of boiling1 pour it into the fillet1 and send it immediately to table4 ,the joint should be placed under a well-heated cover1 while the mince is in course of preparation1 and be kept near the fire4 ,when the knuckle of veal has been sent in with the fillet1 a few thick slices from it may be taken for the sauce2 but it should be boiled down sufficiently early to allow it to cool1 and to have every particle of fat removed from it before it is used4 ,a pound of the meat ought to make1 with the addition of the oyster liquor1 sufficient gravy for the sauce4 ,when expense is not a consideration1 the bchamel of ,chapter ,v4 may be made for it1 and the fillet may be filled up entirely with whole oysters heated in it2 or these may be intermixed with the veal cut into shilling-sized collops4 ,mushroom-buttons1 stewed white in butter1 can be substituted for the oysters1 when their season is past2 and very small forcemeat balls1 delicately fried1 may then be piled entirely over the open part of the fillet4 ,persons who may take exception at the idea of oysters with roast veal1 as not being in accordance with the common etiquette of the table1 are recommended to give the innovation a trial before they reject its adoption4 ,,boiled ,,fillet ,,of ,,veal4 ,a small and delicately white fillet should be selected for this purpose4 ,bind it round with tape1 after having washed it thoroughly2 cover it well with cold water1 and bring it gently to boil2 watch1 and clear off carefully1 the scum as it rises1 and be1 at the same time1 very cautious not to allow the water to become smoked4 ,let the meat be gently simmered from three hours and a half to four and a half1 according to its weight4 ,send it to table with rich white sauce1 and a boiled tongue2 or make for it in the first instance the oyster forcemeat of ,chapter ,,viii41 and serve with the veal a tureen of well-made oyster sauce4 #c-a_/b to #d-a_/b hours4 ,,roast ,,loin ,,of ,,veal4 ,it is not usual to stuff a loin of veal1 but we greatly recommend the practice1 as an infinite improvement to the joint4 ,make the same forcemeat as for the fillet2 and insert it between the skin and the flesh just over the ends of the bones4 ,skewer down the flap1 place the joint at a moderate distance from a sound fire1 keep it constantly basted1 and be especially careful not to allow the kidney fat to burn3 to prevent this1 and to ensure the good appearance of the joint1 a buttered paper is often fastened round the loin1 and removed about half an hour before it is taken from the fire4 ,it is the fashion in some counties to serve egg-sauce and brown gravy with roast loin1 or breast of veal4 ,the cook will scarcely need to be told that she must separate the skin from the flank1 with a sharp knife1 quite from the end1 to the place where the forcemeat is to be put1 and then skewer the whole very securely4 ,when the veal is not papered1 dredge it well with flour soon after it is laid to the fire4 #b to #b-a_/b hours4 ,,boiled ,,loin ,,of ,,veal4 ,if dressed with care and served with good sauces1 this1 when the meat is small and white is an excellent dish1 and often more acceptable to persons of delicate habit than roast veal4 ,take from eight to ten pounds of the best end of the loin1 leave the kidney in with all its fat1 skewer or bind down the flap1 lay the meat into cold water1 and boil it as gently as possible from two hours and a quarter to two and a half1 clearing off the scum perfectly1 as in dressing the fillet4 ,send it to table with well-made oyster sauce1 or bchamel1 or with white sauce well flavoured with lemon-juice1 and with parsley1 boiled1 pressed dry1 and finely chopped4 #b-a_/d to #b-a_/b hours4 ,,stewed ,,loin ,,of ,,veal4 ,take part of a loin of veal1 the chump end will do2 put into a large1 thick1 well-tinned iron saucepan1 or into a stewpan1 about a couple of ounces of butter1 and shake it over a moderate fire until it begins to brown2 flour the veal well all over1 lay it into the saucepan1 and when it is of a fine1 equal1 light brown1 pour gradually in veal broth1 gravy1 or boiling water to nearly half its depth2 add a little sauce1 one or two sliced carrots1 a small onion1 or more when the flavour is much liked1 and a bunch of parsley2 stew the veal very softly for an hour or rather more2 then turn it1 and let it stew for nearly or quite another hour1 or longer should it not be perfectly tender4 ,as none of our receipts have been tried with large1 coarse veal1 the cooking must be regulated by that circumstance1 and longer time allowed should the meat be of more than moderate size4 ,dish the joint1 skim all the fat from the gravy1 and strain it over the meat2 or keep the joint hot while it is rapidly reduced to a richer consistency4 ,this is merely a plain family stew4 ,,boiled ,,breast ,,of ,,veal4 ,let both the veal and the sweetbread be washed with exceeding nicety1 cover them with cold water1 clear off the scum as it rises1 throw in a little salt1 add a bunch of parsley1 a large blade of mace1 and twenty white peppercorns2 simmer the meat from an hour to an hour and a quarter1 and serve it covered with rich onion sauce4 ,send it to table very hot4 ,the sweetbread may be taken up when half done1 and curried1 or made into cutlets1 or stewed in brown gravy4 ,when onions are objected to1 substitute white sauce and a cheek of bacon for them1 or parsley and butter1 if preferred to it4 #a to #a-a_/d hour4 ,,to ,,roast ,a ,,breast ,,of ,,veal4 ,let the caul remain skewered over the joint till with within half an hour of its being ready for table3 place it at a moderate distance from a brisk fire1 baste it constantly1 and in about an hour and a half remove the caul1 flour the joint1 and let it brown4 ,dish and pour melted butter over it1 and serve it with a cut lemon1 and any other of the usual accompaniments to veal4 ,it may be garnished with fried balls of the forcemeat 7,no4 #a1 ,chapter ,,viii47 about the size of a walnut4 #b to #b-a_/b hours4 ,,to ,,bone ,a ,,shoulder ,,of ,,veal1 ,,mutton1 ,,or ,,lamb4 ,illustration3 ,shoulder of ,veal boned4 ,spread a clean cloth upon a table or dresser1 and lay the joint flat upon it1 with the skin downwards2 with a sharp knife cut off the flesh from the inner side nearly down to the blade bone1 of which detach the edges first1 then work the knife under it1 keeping it always close to the bone1 and using all possible precaution not to pierce the outer skin2 when it is in every part separated from the flesh1 loosen it from the socket with the point of the knife1 and remove it2 or1 without dividing the two bones1 cut round the joint until it is freed entirely from the meat1 and proceed to detach the second bone4 ,that of the knuckle is frequently left in1 but for some dishes it is necessary to take it out2 in doing this1 be careful not to tear the skin4 ,a most excellent grill may be made by leaving sufficient meat for it upon the bones of a shoulder of mutton1 when they are removed from the joint3 it will be found very superior to the broiled blade-bone of a roast shoulder1 which is so much liked by many people4 ,,stewed ,,shoulder ,,of ,,veal4 7,english ,receipt47 ,bone a shoulder of veal1 and strew the inside thickly with savoury herbs minced small2 season it well with salt1 cayenne1 and pounded mace2 and place on these a layer of ham cut in thin slices and freed from rind and rust4 ,roll up the veal1 and bind it tightly with a fillet2 roast it for an hour and a half1 then simmer it gently in good brown gravy for five hours2 add forcemeat balls before it is dished2 skim the fat from the gravy1 and serve it with the meat4 ,this receipt1 for which we are indebted to a correspondent on whom we can depend1 and which we have not therefore considered it necessary to test ourselves1 is for a joint which weighs ten pounds before it is boned4 ,,roast ,,neck ,,of ,,veal4 ,the best end of the neck will make an excellent roast4 ,a forcemeat may be inserted between the skin and the flesh1 by first separating them with a sharp knife2 or the dish may be garnished with the forcemeat in balls4 ,from an hour and a half to two hours will roast it4 ,pour melted butter over it when it is dished1 and serve it like other joints4 ,let it be floured when first laid to the fire1 kept constantly basted1 and always at a sufficient distance to prevent its being scorched4 #a-a_/b to #b hours4 ,for the forcemeat1 see ,no4 #a1 ,chapter ,,viii4 ,from #h to #aj minutes will fry the balls4 ,,neck ,,of ,,veal ,,la ,,cr,,me4 7,or ,au ,bchamel47 ,take the best end of a neck of white and well-fed veal1 detach the flesh from the ends of the bones1 cut them sufficiently short to give the joint a good square form1 fold and skewer the skin over them1 wrap a buttered paper round the meat1 lay it at a moderate distance from a clear fire1 and keep it well basted with butter for an hour and a quarter2 then remove the paper and continue the basting with a pint1 or more1 of bchamel or of rich white sauce1 until the veal is sufficiently roasted1 and well encrusted with it4 ,serve some bchamel under it in the dish1 and send it very hot to table4 ,for variety1 give the bchamel in making it a high flavour of mushrooms1 and add some small buttons stewed very white and tender1 to the portion reserved for saucing the joint4 #b to #b-a_/d hours4 ,,veal ,,goose4 7,city of ,london receipt47 8,this is made with the upper part of the flank of a loin of veal 7or sometimes that of the fillet7 covered with a stuffing of sage and onions1 then rolled1 and roasted or broiled4 ,it is served with brown gravy and apple sauce1 is extremely savoury1 and has many admirers40 ,we transcribe the exact receipt for this dish1 which was procured for us from a house in the city1 which is famed for it4 ,we had it tested with the skin of the best end of a fine neck of veal1 from which it was pared with something more than an inch depth of the flesh adhering to it4 ,it was roasted one hour1 and answered extremely well4 ,it is a convenient mode of dressing the flank of the veal for eaters who do not object to the somewhat coarse savour of the preparation4 ,when the tendrons or gristles of a breast1 or part of a breast of veal1 are required for a separate dish1 the remaining portion of the joint may be dressed in this way after the bones have been taken out2 or1 without removing them1 the stuffing may be inserted under the skin4 ,,knuckle ,,of ,,veal ,,en ,,ragout4 ,cut in small thick slices the flesh of a knuckle of veal1 season it with a little fine salt and white pepper1 flour it lightly1 and fry it in butter to a pale brown1 lay it into a very clean stewpan or saucepan1 and just cover it with boiling water2 skim it clean1 and add to it a faggot of thyme and parsley1 the white part of a head of celery1 a small quantity of cayenne1 and a blade or two of mace4 ,stew it very softly from an hour and three quarters to two hours and a half4 ,thicken and enrich the gravy if needful with rice-flour and mushroom catsup or ,harvey's sauce1 or with a large teaspoonful of flour1 mixed with a slice of butter1 a little good store-sauce and a glass of sherry or ,madeira4 ,fried forcemeat balls of ,no4 #a1 ,chapter ,,viii4 may be added at pleasure4 ,with an additional quantity of water1 or of broth 7made with the bones of the joint71 a pint and a half of young green peas stewed with the veal for an hour will give an agreeable variety of this dish4 ,,boiled ,,knuckle ,,of ,,veal4 ,after the joint has been trimmed and well washed1 put it into a vessel well adapted to it in size1 for if it be very large1 so much water will be required that the veal will be deprived of its flavour2 it should be well covered with it1 and very gently boiled until it is perfectly tender in every part1 but not so much done as to separate from the bone4 ,clear off the scum with scrupulous care when the simmering first commences1 and throw in a small portion of salt2 as this1 if sparingly used1 will not redden the meat1 and will otherwise much improve it4 ,parsley and butter is usually both poured over1 and sent to table with a knuckle of veal1 and boiled bacon also should accompany it4 ,from the sinewy nature of this joint1 it requires more than the usual time of cooking1 a quarter of an hour to the pound not being sufficient for it4 ,veal #f to #g lbs43 #b hours or more4 ,,knuckle ,,of ,,veal ,,with ,,rice4 ,pour over a small knuckle of veal rather more than sufficient water to cover it2 bring it slowly to a boil2 take off all the scum with great care1 throw in a teaspoonful of salt1 and when the joint has simmered for about half an hour1 throw in from eight to twelve ounces of well washed rice1 and stew the veal gently for an hour and a half longer1 or until both the meat and rice are perfectly tender4 ,a seasoning of cayenne and mace in fine powder with more salt1 should it be required1 must be added twenty or thirty minutes before they are served4 ,for a superior stew good veal broth may be substituted for the water4 ,veal1 #f lbs42 water1 #c to #d pints2 salt1 #a teaspoonful3 #cj to #dj minutes4 ,rice1 #h to #ab oz43 #a-a_/b hour4 ,obs4--,a quart or even more of full grown green peas added to the veal as soon as the scum has been cleared off will make a most excellent stew4 ,it should be well seasoned with white pepper1 and the mace should be omitted4 ,two or three cucumbers1 pared and freed from the seeds1 may be sliced into it when it boils1 or four or five young lettuces shred small may be added instead4 ,green onions also1 when they are liked1 may be used to give it flavour4 ,,small ,,pain ,,de ,,veau1 ,,or1 ,,veal ,,cake4 ,chop separately and very fine1 a pound and a quarter of veal quite free from fat and skin1 and six ounces of beef kidney-suet2 add a teaspoonful of salt1 a full third as much of white pepper and of mace or nutmeg1 with the grated rind of half a lemon1 and turn the whole well together with the chopping-knife until it is thoroughly mixed2 then press it smoothly into a small round baking dish1 and send it to a moderate oven for an hour and a quarter4 ,lift it into a clean hot dish1 and serve it plain1 or with a little brown gravy in a tureen4 ,three ounces of the lean of a boiled ham minced small1 will very much improve this cake1 of which the size can be increased at will1 and proportionate time allowed for dressing it4 ,if baked in a hot oven1 the meat will shrink to half its proper size1 and be very dry4 ,when done1 it should be of a fine light brown1 and like a cake in appearance4 ,veal1 #a-a_/d lb42 beef-suet1 #f oz42 salt1 #a teaspoonful2 pepper and mace1 or nutmeg1 #c_/d teaspoonful each2 rind of #a_/b lemon2 ham 7when added7 #c oz42 baked #a-a_/d hour4 ,,bordyke ,,veal ,,cake4 7,good47 ,take a pound and a half of veal perfectly clear of fat and skin1 and eight ounces of the nicest striped bacon2 chop them separately1 then mix them well together with the grated rind of a small lemon1 half a teaspoonful of salt1 a fourth as much of cayenne1 the third part of a nutmeg grated1 and a half-teaspoonful of freshly pounded mace ,when it is pressed into the dish1 let it be somewhat higher in the centre than at the edge2 and whether to be served hot or cold1 lift it out as soon as it comes from the oven1 and place it on a strainer that the fat may drain from it2 it will keep many days if the under side be dry4 ,the bacon should be weighed after the rind1 and any rust it may exhibit1 have been trimmed from it4 ,this cake is excellent cold1 better indeed than the preceding one2 but slices of either1 if preferred hot1 may be warmed through in a ,dutch oven1 or on the gridiron1 or in a few spoonsful of gravy4 ,the same ingredients made into small cakes1 well floured1 and slowly fried from twelve to fifteen minutes1 then served with gravy made in the pan as for cutlets1 will be found extremely good4 ,veal1 #a-a_/b lb42 striped bacon1 #h oz42 salt and mace1 #a teaspoonful each2 rind of lemon1 #a2 third of #a nutmeg2 cayenne1 #d grains2 baked #a-a_/d to #a-a_/b hour4 ,,fricandeau ,,of ,,veal4 7,,entr,e74 ,french cooks always prefer for this dish1 which is a common one in their own country1 that part of the fillet to which the fat or udder is attached2#gf but the flesh of the finer part of the neck or loin1 raised clear from the bones1 may be made to answer the purpose nearly or quite as well1 and often much more conveniently1 as the meat with us is not divided for sale as in ,france2 and to purchase the entire fillet for the sake of the fricandeau would render it exceedingly expensive4 ,lay the veal flat upon a table or dresser1 with the skin uppermost1 and endeavour1 with one stroke of an exceedingly sharp knife1 to clear this off1 and to leave the surface of the meat extremely smooth2 next lard it thickly with small lardoons1 as directed for a pheasant 7page #aha71 and make one or two incisions in the underside with the point of a knife1 that it may the better imbibe the flavour of the seasonings4 ,take a stewpan1 of sufficient size to hold the fricandeau1 and the proper quantity of vegetables compactly arranged1 without much room being left round the meat4 ,put into it a couple of large carrots1 cut in thick slices1 two onions of moderate size1 two or three roots of parsley1 three bay leaves1 two small blades of mace1 a branch or two of lemon thyme1 and a little cayenne1 or a saltspoonful of white peppercorns4 ,raise these high in the centre of the stewpan1 so as to support the meat1 and prevent its touching the gravy4 ,cover them with slices of very fat bacon1 and place the fricandeau gently on them2 then pour in as much good veal broth1 or stock1 as will nearly cover the vegetables without reaching to the veal4 ,a calf's foot1 split in two1 may with advantage be laid under them in the first instance4 ,stew the fricandeau very gently for upwards of three hours1 or until it is found to be extremely tender when probed with a fine skewer or a larding-pin4 ,plenty of live embers must then be put on the lid of the stewpan for ten minutes or a quarter of an hour1 to render the lardoons firm4 ,lift out the fricandeau and keep it hot2 strain and reduce the gravy very quickly1 after having skimmed off every particle of fat2 glaze the veal1 and serve it on a ragout of sorrel1 cucumbers1 or spinach4 ,this1 though rather an elaborate receipt1 is the best we can offer to the reader for a dish1 which is now almost as fashionable with us as it is common on the ,continent4 ,some ,english cooks have a very summary method of preparing it2 they merely lard and boil the veal until they can 8cut it with a spoon40 then glaze and serve it with 8brown gravy in the dish40 ,this may be very tolerable eating1 but it will bear small resemblance to the ,french fricandeau4 ,footnote #gf3 ,called by them the noix4 #c-a_/b to #d hours4 ,,spring-,,stew ,,of ,,veal4 ,cut two pound of veal1 free from fat1 into small half-inch thick cutlets2 flour them well1 and fry them in butter with two small cucumbers sliced1 sprinkled with pepper1 and floured1 one moderate sized lettuce1 and twenty-four green gooseberries cut open lengthwise and seeded4 ,when the whole is nicely browned1 lift it into a thick saucepan1 and pour gradually into the pan half a pint1 or rather more1 of boiling water1 broth1 or gravy4 ,add as much salt and pepper as it requires4 ,give it a minute's simmer1 and pour it over the meat1 shaking it well round the pan as this is done4 ,let the veal stew gently from three quarters of an hour to an hour4 ,a bunch of green onions cut small may be added to the other vegetables if liked2 and the veal will eat better1 if slightly seasoned with salt and pepper before it is floured2 a portion of fat can be left on it if preferred4 ,veal #b lbs42 cucumbers1 #b2 lettuce1 #a2 green gooseberries1 #bd2 water or broth1 #a_/b pint or more3 #c_/d to #a hour4 ,,norman ,,harrico4 ,brown in a stewpan or fry lightly1 after having sprinkled them with pepper1 salt1 and flour1 from two to three pounds of veal cutlets4 ,if taken from the neck or loin1 chop the bones very short1 and trim away the greater portion of the fat4 ,arrange them as flat as they can be in a saucepan2 give a pint of water a boil in the pan in which they have been browned1 and pour it on them2 add a small faggot of parsley1 and1 should the flavour be liked1 one of green onions also4 ,let the meat simmer softly for half an hour2 then cover it with small new potatoes which have had a single boil in water1 give the saucepan a shake1 and let the harrico stew very gently for another half hour1 or until the potatoes are quite done1 and the veal is tender4 ,when the cutlets are thick and the potatoes approaching their full size1 more time will be required for the meat1 and the vegetables may be at once divided3 if extremely young they will need the previous boil4 ,before the harrico is served1 skim the fat from it1 and add salt and pepper should it not be sufficiently seasoned4 ,a few bits of lean ham1 or shoulder of bacon browned with the veal1 will much improve this dish1 and for some tastes1 a little acid will render it more agreeable4 ,very delicate pork chops may be dressed in the same way4 ,a cutlet taken from the fillet and freed from fat and skin1 answers best for this dish4 ,additional vegetables1 cooked apart1 can be added to it after it is dished4 ,peas boiled very green and well drained1 or young carrots sliced and stewed tender in butter1 are both well suited to it4 ,veal1 #b to #c lbs42 water 7or gravy71 #a pint2 new potatoes #a-a_/b to #b lbs42 faggot1 parsley1 and green onions3 #a hour or more4 ,,plain ,,veal ,,cutlets4 ,take them if possible free from bone1 and after having trimmed them into proper shape1 beat them with a cutlet-bat or paste-roller until the fibre of the meat is thoroughly broken2 flour them well to prevent the escape of the gravy1 and fry them from twelve to fifteen minutes over a fire which is not sufficiently fierce to burn them before they are quite cooked through3 they should be of a fine amber brown1 and perfectly done4 ,lift them into a hot dish1 pour the fat from the pan1 throw in a slice of fresh butter1 and when it is melted1 stir or dredge in a dessertspoonful of flour2 keep these shaken until they are well-coloured1 then pour gradually to them a cup of gravy or of boiling water2 add pepper1 salt1 a little lemon-pickle or juice1 give the whole a boil1 and pour it over the cutlets3 a few forcemeat balls fried and served with them1 is usually a very acceptable addition to this dish1 even when it is garnished or accompanied with rashers of ham or bacon4 ,a morsel of glaze1 or of the jelly of roast meat1 should when at hand be added to the sauce1 which a little mushroom powder would further improve3 mushroom sauce1 indeed1 is considered by many epicures1 as indispensable with veal cutlets4 ,we have recommended in this one instance that the meat should be thoroughly beaten1 because we find that the veal is wonderfully improved by the process1 which1 however1 we still deprecate for other meat4 #ab to #ae minutes4 ,,veal ,,cutlets ,a ,l',,indienne1 ,,or ,,indian ,,fashion4 7,,entr,e47 ,mix well together four ounces of very fine stale bread-crumbs1 a teaspoonful of salt1 and a tablespoonful of the best currie powder4 ,cut down into small well-shaped cutlets or collops1 two pounds of veal free from fat1 skin1 or bone2 beat the slices flat1 and dip them first into some beaten egg-yolks1 and then into the seasoned crumbs2 moisten them again with egg1 and pass them a second time through bread-crumbs4 ,when all are ready1 fry them in three or four ounces of butter over a moderate fire1 from twelve to fourteen minutes4 ,for sauce1 mix smoothly with a knife1 a teaspoonful of flour and an equal quantity of currie-powder1 with a small slice of butter2 shake these in the pan for about five minutes1 pour to them a cup of gravy or boiling water1 add salt and cayenne if required and the strained juice of half a lemon2 simmer the whole till well flavoured1 and pour it round the cutlets4 ,a better plan is1 to have some good currie sauce ready prepared to send to table with this dish2 which may likewise be served with only well-made common cutlet gravy1 from the pan1 when much of the pungent flavour of the currie-powder is not desired4 ,bread-crumbs1 #d oz42 salt1 #a teaspoonful2 currie powder1 #a tablespoonful2 veal1 #b lbs43 #ab to #ad minutes4 ,obs4--,these cutlets may be broiled2 they should then be well beaten first1 and dipped into clarified butter instead of egg before they are passed through the curried seasoning4 ,,veal ,,cutlets1 ,,or ,,collops1 ,,la ,,fran,,aise4 7,,entr,e47 ,cut the veal into small1 thin1 round collops of equal size1 arrange them evenly in a saut-pan1 or in a small frying-pan1 and sprinkle a little fine salt1 white pepper1 and grated nutmeg on them4 ,clarify1 or merely dissolve in a clean saucepan with a gentle degree of heat1 an ounce or two of good butter1 and pour it equally over the meat4 ,set the pan aside until the dinner-hour1 then fry the collops over a clear fire1 and when they are lightly browned1 which will be in from four to five minutes1 lift them into a hot dish1 and sauce them with a little ,espagnole1 or with a gravy made quickly in the pan1 and flavoured with lemon-juice and cayenne4 ,they are excellent even without any sauce4 #c to #d minutes4 ,,scotch ,,collops4 7,,entr,e47 ,prepare the veal as for the preceding receipt1 but dip the collops into beaten egg and seasoned bread-crumbs1 and fry them directly in good butter1 over a moderate fire1 of a light golden brown2 drain them well in lifting them from the pan1 and sauce them like the collops la ,franaise4 ,,veal ,,cutlets ,,la ,,mode ,,de ,,londres1 ,,or1 ,,london ,,fashion4 7,,entr,e47 ,raise the flesh entire from the upper side of the best end of a neck of veal1 free it from the skin1 and from the greater portion of the fat1 slice it equally into cutlets little more than a quarter of an inch thick1 brush them with egg1 strew them with fine bread-crumbs1 and fry them of a light brown4 ,toast1 or fry apart as many small slices of bacon as there are cutlets1 and let them be trimmed nearly to the same shape2 place them alternately on their edges round the inside of a hot dish 7so as to form a sort of chain71 and pour into the middle some rich gravy made in the pan1 and very slightly flavoured with eschalot2 or substitute for this some good brown mushroom sauce4 ,savoury herbs1 grated lemon-rind1 nutmeg or mace1 salt1 and white pepper or cayenne1 should be mixed with the bread-crumbs1 in the proportions directed at page #bac1 for cutlets of calf's head2 or they may be varied at pleasure4 ,a cheek of bacon is best adapted to this dish4 ,,sweetbreads ,,simply ,,dressed4 7,,entr,e47 ,in whatever way sweetbreads are dressed1 they should first be well soaked in lukewarm water1 then thrown into boiling water to blanch them1 as it is called1 and to render them firm4 ,if lifted out after they have boiled from five to ten minutes according to their size1 and laid immediately into fresh spring water to cool1 their colour will be the better preserved4 ,they may then be gently stewed for three quarters of an hour in veal gravy1 which with the usual additions of cream1 lemon1 and egg-yolks1 may be converted into a fricassee sauce for them when they are done2 or they may be lifted from it1 glazed1 and served with good ,spanish gravy2 or1 the glazing being omitted1 they may be sauced with the sharp ,matre d',htel sauce of page #aag4 ,they may also be simply floured1 and roasted in a ,dutch oven1 being often basted with butter1 and frequently turned4 ,a full sized sweetbread1 after having been blanched1 will require quite three quarters of an hour to dress it4 ,blanched #e to #aj minutes4 ,stewed #c_/d hour or more4 ,,sweetbread ,,cutlets4 7,,entr,e47 ,boil the sweetbreads for half an hour in water or veal broth1 and when they are perfectly cold1 cut them into slices of equal thickness1 brush them with yolk of egg1 and dip them into very fine bread-crumbs seasoned with salt1 cayenne1 grated lemon-rind1 and mace2 fry them in butter of a fine light brown1 arrange them in a dish placing them high in the centre1 and pour under them a gravy made in the pan1 thickened with mushroom powder and flavoured with lemon-juice2 or1 in lieu of this1 sauce them with some rich brown gravy1 to which a glass of sherry or ,madeira has been added4 ,when it can be done conveniently1 take as many slices of a cold boiled tongue as there are sweetbread cutlets2 pare the rind from them1 trim them into good shape1 and dress them with the sweetbreads1 after they have been egged and seasoned in the same way2 and place each cutlet upon a slice of tongue when they are dished4 ,for variety1 substitute croutons of fried bread stamped out to the size of the cutlets with a round or fluted paste or cake cutter4 ,the crumb of a stale loaf1 very evenly sliced1 is best for the purpose4 ,,stewed ,,calf',s ,,feet4 7,cheap and ,good47 ,this is an excellent family dish1 highly nutritious1 and often very inexpensive1 as the feet during the summer are usually sold at a low rate4 ,wash them with nicety1 divide them at the joint1 and split the claws2 arrange them closely in a thick stewpan or saucepan1 and pour in as much cold water as will cover them about half an inch3 three pints will be sufficient for a couple of large feet4 ,when broth or stock is at hand1 it is good economy to substitute it for the water1 as by this means a portion of strong and well-flavoured jellied gravy will be obtained for general use1 the full quantity not being needed as sauce for the feet4 ,the whole preparation will be much improved by laying a thick slice of the lean of an unboiled ham1 knuckle of bacon1 hung beef1 or the end of a dried tongue1 at the bottom of the pan1 before the other ingredients are added2 or1 when none of these are at hand1 by supplying the deficiency with a few bits of lean beef or veal3 the feet being of themselves insipid1 will be much more palatable with one or the other of these additions4 ,throw in from half to three quarters of a teaspoonful of salt when they begin to boil1 and after the scum has been all cleared off1 add a few branches of parsley1 a little celery1 one small onion or more1 stuck with half a dozen cloves1 a carrot or two1 a large blade of mace1 and twenty corns of whole pepper2 stew them softly until the flesh will part entirely from the bones2 take it from them1 strain part of the gravy1 and skim off all the fat1 flavour it with catsup or any other store sauce1 and thicken it1 when it boils1 with arrow-root or flour and butter2 put in the flesh of the feet1 and serve the dish as soon as the whole is very hot4 ,a glass of wine1 a little lemon juice1 and a few forcemeat balls1 will convert this into a very superior stew2 a handful of mushroom-buttons also simmered in it for half an hour before it is dished1 will vary it agreeably4 ,calf's feet 7large71 #b2 water1 #c pints2 salt1 #a_/b to #a_/c teaspoonful2 onions1 #a to #c2 cloves1 #f2 peppercorns1 #bj2 mace1 large blade2 little celery and parsley2 carrots1 #a or #b3 stewed softly1 #b-a_/b to #c-a_/d hours4 ,mushroom catsup1 #a tablespoonful2 flour1 or arrow-root1 #a large teaspoonful2 butter1 #a to #b oz4 ,cayenne1 to taste4 ,,calf',s ,,liver ,,stoved1 ,,or ,,stewed4 ,from three to four pounds of the best part of the liver will be sufficient for a dish of moderate size4 ,first lard it quite through by the directions of page #aha1 with large lardoons1 rolled in a seasoning of spice1 and of savoury herbs very finely minced2 then lay it into a stewpan or saucepan just fitted to its size1 and pour in about half a pint of broth or gravy2 heat it very gently1 and throw in1 when it begins to simmer1 a sliced carrot1 a small onion cut in two1 a small bunch of parsley1 and a blade of mace2 stew the liver as softly as possible over a very slow fire from two hours and a half to three hours2 thicken the gravy with a little brown roux 7see page #ajg71 or with a dessertspoonful of browned flour2 add a couple of glasses of white wine1 and a little spice if needed1 and serve it very hot1 after having taken out the herbs and vegetable4 ,the liver may be stewed without being larded2 it may likewise be browned all over in a carefully made roux1 before the gravy is poured to it3 this must then be made to boil1 and be added in small portions1 the stewpan being well shaken round as each is thrown in4 ,the wine can be altogether omitted2 or a wineglassful of port mixed with a little lemon-juice1 may take the place of sherry4 ,after the liver has been wiped very dry1 minced herbs may be strewed thickly over it before it is laid into the stewpan2 and it may be served in its own gravy1 or with a sauce piquante4 ,liver1 #c to #d lbs3 #b to #c hours4 ,,to ,,roast ,,calf',s ,,liver4 ,take the whole or part of a fine white sound liver1 and either lard it as a fricandeau upon the surface1 or with large strips of highly-seasoned bacon in the inside 7see ,larding1 page #aha72 or should either of these modes be objected to1 merely wrap it in a well buttered paper1 and roast it from an hour to an hour and a quarter at a moderate distance from a clear fire1 keeping it constantly basted4 ,remove the paper1 and froth the liver well from ten to fifteen minutes before it is done4 ,it should be served with a sauce of some piquancy1 such as a poivrade1 or brown eschalot1 in addition to some good gravy4 ,french cooks steep the liver over-night in vinegar1 with a sliced onion and branches of savoury herbs laid over it3 this whitens and renders it firm4 ,as an economical mode1 some small bits of the liver may be trimmed off1 floured1 and lightly fried with a sliced onion1 and stewed down for gravy in three quarters of a pint of water which has been poured into the pan1 with the addition of a few peppercorns1 and a small bunch of herbs4 ,a seasoning of salt must not be forgotten1 and a little lemon pickle1 or juice1 would generally be considered an improvement4 #a to #a-a_/d hour4 ,,blanquette ,,of ,,veal ,,or ,,lamb1 ,,with ,,mushrooms4 7,,entr,e47 ,slice very thin the white part of some cold veal1 divide and trim it into scallops not larger than a shilling1 and lay it into a clean saucepan or stewpan4 ,wipe with a bit of new flannel and a few grains of salt1 from a quarter to half a pint of mushroom-buttons1 and slice them into a little butter which just begins to simmer2 stew them in it from twelve to fifteen minutes1 without allowing them to take the slightest colour2 then lift them out and lay them on the veal4 ,pour boiling to them a pint of sauce tourne 7see page #ajh72 let the blanquette remain near1 but not close to the fire for awhile3 bring it nearer1 heat it slowly1 and when it is on the point of boiling mix a spoonful or two of the sauce from it with the well beaten yolks of four fresh eggs2 stir them to the remainder2 add the strained juice of half a small lemon2 shake the saucepan above the fire until the sauce is just set1 and serve the blanquette instantly4 ,cold veal1 #c_/d lb42 mushrooms1 #a_/d to #a_/b pint3 stewed in #a-a_/b oz4 butter1 #ab to #ae minutes4 ,sauce tourne1 or thickened veal gravy1 #a pint2 yolks of eggs1 #d2 lemon-juice1 #a tablespoonful4 ,obs4--,any white meat may be served en blanquette4 ,the mushrooms are not indispensable for it1 but they are always a great improvement4 ,white sauce substituted for the thickened veal gravy will at once convert this dish into an inexpensive ,english fricassee4 ,mace1 salt1 and cayenne1 must be added to either preparation1 should it require seasoning4 ,,minced ,,veal4 ,when there is neither gravy nor broth at hand1 the bones and trimmings of the meat must be boiled down to furnish what is required for the mince4 ,as cold meat is very light in weight1 a pound of the white part of the veal will be sufficient for a dish1 and for this quantity a pint of gravy will be needed4 ,break down the bones of the joint well1 add the trimmings of the meat1 a small bunch of savoury herbs1 a slice or two of carrot or of celery1 a blade of mace1 a few white peppercorns1 and a bit or two of lean ham1 boiled1 or unboiled if it can be had1 as either will improve the flavour of the mince4 ,pour to these a pint and a half of water1 and stew them gently for a couple of hours2 then strain off the gravy1 let it cool1 and clear it entirely from the fat4 ,cut the white part of the veal small with a very sharp knife1 after all the gristle and brown edges have been trimmed away4 ,some persons like a portion of fat minced with it1 others object to the addition altogether4 ,thicken the gravy with a teaspoonful and a half of flour smoothly mixed with a small slice of butter1 season the veal with a saltspoonful or more of salt1 and half as much white pepper and grated nutmeg1 or pounded mace2 add the lightly-grated rind of half a small lemon2 mix the whole well1 put it into the gravy1 and heat it thoroughly by the side of the fire without allowing it to boil2 serve it with pale toasted sippets in and round the dish4 ,a spoonful or two of cream is always an improvement to this mince4 ,,minced ,,veal ,,and ,,oysters4 ,the most elegant mode of preparing this dish is to mince about a pound of the whitest part of the inside of a cold roast fillet or loin of veal1 to heat it without allowing it to boil1 in a pint of rich white sauce1 or bchamel1 and to mix with it at the moment of serving1 three dozens of small oysters ready bearded1 and plumped in their own strained liquor1 which is also to be added to the mince2 the requisite quantity of salt1 cayenne1 and mace should be sprinkled over the veal before it is put into the sauce4 ,garnish the dash with pale fried sippets of bread1 or with fleurons#gg of brioche1 or of puff-paste4 ,nearly half a pint of mushrooms minced1 and stewed white in a little butter1 may be mixed with the veal instead of the oysters2 or should they be very small they may be added to it whole3 from ten to twelve minutes will be sufficient to make them tender4 ,balls of delicately fried oyster-forcemeat laid round the dish will give another good variety of it4 ,footnote #gg3 ,fleurons1 flowers1 or flower-like figures1 cut out with tin shapes4 ,veal minced1 #a lb42 white sauce1 #a pint2 oysters1 #c dozen1 with their liquor2 or mushrooms1 #a_/b pint1 stewed in butter #aj to #ab minutes4 ,,veal-,,sydney4 7,,good47 ,pour boiling on an ounce and a half of fine bread-crumbs nearly half a pint of good veal stock or gravy1 and let them stand till cool2 mix with them then1 two ounces of beef-suet shred very small1 half a pound of cold roast veal carefully trimmed from the brown edges1 skin1 and fat1 and finely minced2 the grated rind of half a lemon1 nearly a teaspoonful of salt1 a little cayenne1 the third of a teaspoonful of mace or nutmeg1 and four well-beaten eggs4 ,whisk up the whole well together1 put it into a buttered dish1 and bake it from three quarters of an hour to an hour4 ,cream may be used instead of gravy when more convenient1 but this last will give the better flavour4 ,a little clarified butter put into the dish before the other ingredients are poured in will be an improvement4 ,bread-crumbs1 #a-a_/b oz42 gravy or cream1 nearly #a_/b pint2 beef-suet1 #b oz42 cold veal1 #a_/b lb42 rind of #a_/b lemon2 salt1 small teaspoonful2 third as much mace and nutmeg2 little cayenne2 eggs1 #d large or #e small3 #c_/d to #a hour4 ,,fricasseed ,,veal4 ,divide into small1 thick1 handsome slices of equal size1 about a couple of pounds of veal1 quite free from fat1 bone1 and skin2 dissolve a couple of ounces of butter in a wide stewpan1 and just as it begins to boil lay in the veal1 and shake it over the fire until it is quite firm on both sides1 but do not allow it to take the slightest colour4 ,stir in a tablespoonful of flour1 and when it is well mixed with the cutlets1 pour gradually to them1 shaking the pan often1 sufficient boiling veal gravy to almost cover them4 ,stew them gently from fifteen to sixteen minutes1 or longer should they not be perfectly tender4 ,add a flavouring of mace1 some salt1 a quarter-pint of rich cream1 a couple of egg-yolks1 and a little lemon-juice1 observing1 when the last are added1 the directions given for a blanquette of veal1 page #bbi4 ,strips of lemon-rind can be stewed in the gravy at pleasure4 ,two or three dozens of mushroom-buttons1 added twenty minutes before it is served1 will much improve this fricasse4 ,,small ,,entr,,es ,,of ,,sweetbreads1 ,,calf',s ,,brains ,,and ,,ears1 c4 c4 ,for tables of which the service consists rather of a great variety of light dishes 7entres7 than of substantial ,english fare1 the ears1 brains1 sweetbreads1 gristles or tendrons1 and the tail of a calf1 may be dressed in many different ways to supply them2 but they require a really good style of cookery1 and many adjuncts to render them available for the purpose1 as they do not possess much decided natural flavour1 and their insipidity would be apt to tire if it were not relieved by the mode of preparing them4 ,we shall give some few especial receipts for them in the chapter on ,foreign ,cookery1 should sufficient space remain open for us to admit them2 and insert here only such slight general directions as may suffice for preparing some of them in a simple form2 as they are not in reality of first-rate importance4 ,all of them may be served with good curried1 or highly-flavoured tomato-sauce1 after having been stewed in strong broth or gravy4 ,the brains and sweetbreads cut into small dice or scallops1 and mixed with bchamel1 or with common white sauce1 may be used to fill small vol-au-vents1 or patty cases4 ,the ears are usually filled in part with forcemeat1 or a preparation of the brains1 and placed upright when dished2 and the upper part is cut into narrow fringe-like strips4 ,for 8,tendrons de ,veau10 and 8,breast of veal rolled and stewed10 the reader is referred to ,chapter ,,xxxiv4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,chapter ,,xii4 ,mutton4 ,illustration ,no4 #a4 ,leg4 #b4 ,best ,end of ,loin4 #c4 ,chump ,end of ,loin4 #d4 ,neck1 ,best ,end4 #e4 ,neck1 ,scrag ,end4 #f4 ,shoulder4 #g4 ,breast4 ,a ,saddle is the ,two ,loins4 ,a ,chine1 the ,two ,necks4 ,mutton is best suited for table in autumn1 winter1 and early spring4 ,it is not considered quite so good when grass-lamb is in full season1 nor during the sultry months of summer4 ,,to ,,choose ,,mutton4 ,,the best mutton is small-boned1 plump1 finely-grained1 and short-legged2 the lean of a dark1 rather than of a bright hue1 and the fat white and clear3 when this is yellow1 the meat is rank1 and of bad quality4 ,mutton is not considered by experienced judges to be in perfection until it is nearly or quite five years old2 but to avoid the additional expense of feeding the animal so long1 it is commonly brought into the market at three years old4 ,the leg and the loin are the superior joints2 and the preference would probably be given more frequently to the latter1 but for the superabundance of its fat1 which renders it a not very economical dish4 ,the haunch consists of the leg and the part of the loin adjoining it2 the saddle1 of the two loins together1 or of the undivided back of the sheep3 these last are always roasted1 and are served usually at good tables1 or for company-dinners1 instead of the smaller joints4 ,the shoulder1 dressed in the ordinary way1 is not very highly esteemed1 but when boned1 rolled1 and filled with forcemeat1 it is of more presentable appearance1 and to many tastes1 far better eating2 though some persons prefer it in its natural form1 accompanied by stewed onions4 ,it is occasionally boiled or stewed1 and covered with rich onion sauce4 ,the flesh of that part of the neck which is commonly called the 8best end10 or the back ribs1 and which adjoins the loin1 is the most succulent and tender portion of the sheep1 and makes an excellent small roast1 and is extremely good served as cutlets1 after being divested of the superabundant fat4 ,it is likewise very frequently boiled2 but so cooked it makes but an unsightly and insipid dish1 though an idea prevails in this country that it is a very wholesome one4 ,cutlets 7or chops1 as the butchers term them7 are commonly taken from the loin1 and are generally charged at a higher rate than joints of mutton1 in consequence1 probably1 of the constant demand for them4 ,they may likewise be cut from the saddle1 but will then be very large1 and of no better quality than when the two loins which form the saddle are divided in the usual way1 though a certain degree of fashion has of late been accorded to them4#gh ,the scrag1 or that part of it which joins the head1 is seldom used for any other purpose than making broth1 and should be taken off before the joint is dressed4 ,cutlets from the thick end of the loin are commonly preferred to any others1 but they are frequently taken likewise from the best end of the neck 7sometimes called the back-ribs7 and from the middle of the leg4 ,mutton kidneys are dressed in various ways1 and are excellent in many4 ,the trotters and the head of a sheep may be converted into very good dishes1 but they are scarcely worth the trouble which is required to render them palatable4 ,the loin and the leg are occasionally cured and smoked like hams or bacon4 ,footnote #gh3 ,many years since1 these 8saddle-back0 cutlets were supplied to us by a country butcher1 and though of very fine ,south ,down mutton1 had no particular importance attached to them1 nor were they considered as remarkably new4 ,,to ,,roast ,a ,,haunch ,,of ,,mutton4#gi ,footnote #gi3 ,we recommend ,liebig's directions for roasting 7page #aga71 to be applied here1 and for the joints which follow4 ,this joint should be well kept1 and when the larder-accommodations of a house not are good1 the butcher should be requested to hang it the proper time4 ,roast it carefully at a large sound fire1 and let it remain at a considerable distance for at least a couple of hours2 then draw it nearer1 but never sufficiently so to burn or injure the fat4 ,keep it constantly basted2 flour it soon after it is laid to the fire1 instead of frothing it1 as this latter mode is not generally relished1 though fashion is in its favour4 ,in from three and a half to four hours1 the haunch will be done1 and it will require something less of time when not kept back at first1 as we have advised4 ,serve it with a good ,espagnole1 or with plain mutton-gravy and currant-jelly4 ,this joint1 when the meat is of very fine quality1 may be dressed and served exactly like venison4 #c-a_/b to #d hours4 #e hours or more by the slow method4 ,,roast ,,saddle ,,of ,,mutton4 ,this is an excellent joint1 though not considered a very economical one4 ,it is usual for the butcher to raise the skin from it before it is sent in1 and to skewer it on again1 that in the roasting the juices of the meat may be better preserved1 and the fat prevented from taking too much colour1 as this should be but delicately browned4 ,in less than half an hour before the mutton is done1 remove the skin1 and flour the joint lightly after having basted it well4 ,our own great objection to frothed meat would lead us to recommend that the skin should be taken off half an hour earlier1 and that the joint should be kept at sufficient distance from the fire to prevent the possibility of the fat being burned2 and that something more of time should be allowed for the roasting4 ,with constant basting1 great care1 and good management1 the cook may always ensure the proper appearance of this1 or of any other joint 7except1 perhaps1 of a haunch of venison7 without having recourse to papering or pasting1 or even to replacing the skin2 but when unremitted attention cannot be given to this one part of the dinner1 it is advisable to take all precautions that can secure it from being spoiled4 #b-a_/b to #b-c_/d hours4 ,more if very large4 ,,to ,,roast ,a ,,leg ,,of ,,mutton4 ,in a cool and airy larder a leg of mutton will hang many days with advantage1 if the kernel be taken out1 and the flap wiped very dry when it is first brought in2 and it is never tender when freshly killed3 in warm weather it should be well dredged with pepper to preserve it from the flies4 ,if washed before it is put upon the spit1 it should be wiped as dry as possible afterwards1 and well floured soon after it is laid to the fire4 ,when the excellence of the joint is more regarded than the expense of fuel1 it should be roasted by what we have denominated the slow method2 that is to say1 it should be kept at a considerable distance from the fire1 and remain at it four hours instead of two3 it may be drawn nearer for the last twenty or thirty minutes to give it colour4 ,the gravy will flow from it in great abundance when it is cut1 and the meat will be very superior to that roasted in the usual way4 ,when this plan is not pursued1 the mutton should still be kept quite a foot from the fire until it is heated through1 and never brought sufficiently near to scorch or to harden any part4 ,it should be constantly basted with its own fat1 for if this be neglected1 all other precautions will fail to ensure a good roast2 and after it is dished a little fine salt should be sprinkled lightly on it1 and a spoonful or two of boiling water ladled over4 ,this is the most palatable mode of serving it1 but it may be frothed when it is preferred so1 though we would rather recommend that the flour should be dredged on in the first instance1 as it then prevents the juices of the meat from escaping1 and forms a savoury coating to it2 while the raw taste which it so often retains with mere frothing is to many eaters especially objectionable4 ,leg of mutton1 #g to #h lbs43 slow method #d hours1 common method #a-c_/d to #b hours4 ,obs4--,many common cooks injure their roasts exceedingly by pouring abundance of hot water over them1 8to make gravy0 as they call it4 ,this should never be done4 ,the use of any portion may1 perhaps1 be rationally objected to2 but when the joint is not carefully cooked it is sometimes very dry without it4 ,a few spoonsful of ,liebeg's extract of meat will supply excellent gravy for this1 or for any other dish of roasted meat4 ,,braised ,,leg ,,of ,,mutton4 ,take out the bone as far as the first joint by the directions of the following receipt2 roll some large strips of bacon in a seasoning of mixed spice1 and of savoury herbs minced extremely fine or dried and reduced to powder1 and with these lard the inside of the boned portion of the joint2 or fill the cavity with forcemeat highly seasoned with eschalot or garlic4 ,sew up the meat1 and place it in a braising-pan or ham-kettle nearly of its size1 with slices of bacon under and over it1 two or three onions1 four or five carrots1 two bay leaves1 a large bunch of savoury herbs1 a few bones1 or bits of undressed mutton or veal1 and about three quarters of a pint of gravy4 ,stew the meat as softly as possible from four to five hours1 and keep live embers on the pan 7or1 as this mode of cooking is not general in ,england1 set the mutton1 if it can be done conveniently1 into a moderately-heated oven1 after having luted the edges of the vessel in which it is arranged with a bit of coarse paste72 lift it out1 strain the gravy1 reduce it quickly to glaze1 and brush the meat with it2 or merely strain1 free it from fat1 and pour it over the mutton4 ,white beans 7haricots blancs71 boiled tender and well drained1 or a mild ragout of garlic or eschalots1 may be laid in the dish under it4 ,the joint can be braised equally well without any part of it being boned4 #c to #e hours4 ,,leg ,,of ,,mutton ,,boned ,,and ,,forced4 ,select for this dish a joint of ,south ,down or of any other delicate-sized mutton1 which has been kept sufficiently long to render it very tender4 ,lay it on a clean cloth spread upon a table1 and turn the underside upwards4 ,with a sharp-edged boning-knife cut through the middle of the skin1 from the knuckle to the first joint1 and raise it from the flesh on the side along which the bone runs1 until the knife is just above it1 then cut through the flesh down to the bone2 work the knife round it in every part till you reach the socket2 next remove the flat bone from the large end of the joint1 and pass the knife freely round the remaining one1 as it is not needful to take it out clear of the meat2 when you again reach the middle joint1 loosen the skin round it with great care1 and the two bones can then be drawn out without being divided4 ,this being done1 fill the cavities with the forcemeat1 ,no4 #a4 7,chapter ,,viii471 adding to it a somewhat high seasoning of eschalot1 garlic1 or onion2 or cut out with the bone1 nearly a pound of the inside of the mutton1 chop it fine with six ounces of delicate striped bacon1 and mix with it thoroughly three quarters of an ounce of parsley1 and half as much of thyme and winter savoury1 all minced extremely small2 a half teaspoonful of pepper 7or a third as much of cayenne72 the same of mace1 salt1 and nutmeg1 and either the grated rind of a small lemon1 or four eschalots finely shred4 ,when the lower part of the leg is filled1 sew the skin neatly together where it has been cut open1 and tie the knuckle round tightly1 to prevent the escape of the gravy4 ,replace the flat bone at the large end1 and with a long needle and twine1 draw the edges of the meat together over it4 ,if it can be done conveniently1 it is better to roast the mutton thus prepared in a cradle spit or upon a bottle-jack1 with the knuckle downwards4 ,place it at first far from the fire1 and keep it constantly basted4 ,it will require nearly or quite three hours' roasting4 ,remove the twine before it is served1 and send it very hot to table with some rich brown gravy4 ,a ,,boiled ,,leg ,,of ,,mutton ,,with ,,tongue ,,and ,,turnips4 7,an excellent ,receipt47 ,trim into handsome form a well-kept1 but perfectly sweet leg of mutton1 of middling weight2 wash1 but do not soak it2 lay it into a vessel as nearly of its size as convenient1 and pour in rather more than sufficient cold water#hj to cover it2 set it over a good fire1 and when it begins to boil take off the scum1 and continue to do so until no more appears2 throw in a tablespoonful of salt 7after the first skimming71 which will assist to bring it to the surface1 and as soon as the liquor is clear1 add two moderate-sized onions stuck with a dozen cloves1 a large faggot of parsley1 thyme1 and winter savoury1 and four or five large carrots1 and half an hour afterwards as many turnips4 ,draw the pan to the side of the fire1 and let the mutton be simmered gently from two hours to two and a half1 from the time of its first beginning to boil4 ,serve it with caper1 brown cucumber1 or oyster sauce4 ,if stewed softly1 as we have directed1 the mutton will be found excellent dressed thus2 otherwise1 it will but resemble the unpalatable and ragged-looking joints of fast-boiled meat1 so constantly sent to table by common ,english cooks4 ,any undressed bones of veal1 mutton1 or beef1 boiled with the joint will improve it much1 and the liquor will then make excellent soup or bouillon4 ,a small smoked ox-tongue boiled very tender will generally be much approved as an accompaniment to the mutton1 though it is out of the usual course to serve them together3 innovation on established usages is1 however1 sometimes to be recommended4 ,the tongue should be garnished with well-prepared mashed turnips1 moulded with a tablespoon into the form of a half-egg1 and sent to table as hot as possible2 or the turnips may be dished apart4 ,footnote #hj3 ,we have left this receipt unaltered1 instead of applying to it ,baron ,liebeg's directions for his improved method of boiling meat1 because his objections to the immersion of the joint in cold water are partially obviated1 by its being placed immediately over a sound fire1 and heated quickly2 and the mutton is very good thus dressed4 #b to #b-a_/b hours4 ,,roast ,,or ,,stewed ,,fillet ,,of ,,mutton4 ,cut some inches from either end of a large and well-kept leg of mutton1 and leave the fillet shaped like one of veal4 ,remove the bone1 and fill the cavity with forcemeat 7,no4 #a1 ,chapter ,,viii471 which may be flavoured with a little minced eschalot1 when its flavour is liked3 more forcemeat may be added by detaching the skin sufficiently on the flap side to admit it4 ,when thus prepared1 the fillet may be roasted1 and served with currant-jelly and brown gravy1 or with only melted butter poured over it2 or it may be stewed gently for nearly or quite four hours1 in a pint of gravy or broth1 after having been floured and browned all over in a couple of ounces of butter3 it must then be turned every hour that it may be equally done4 ,two or three small onions1 a faggot of herbs1 a couple of carrots sliced1 four or five cloves1 and twenty whole peppercorns can be added to it at will4 ,roasted #b hours1 or stewed #d hours4 ,obs4--,at a large fire1 half an hour less of time will roast the mutton sufficiently for ,english taste in general4 ,,to ,,roast ,a ,,loin ,,of ,,mutton4 ,the flesh of the loin of mutton is superior to that of the leg1 when roasted2 but to the frugal housekeeper this consideration is usually overbalanced by the great weight of fat attached to it2 this1 however1 when economy is more considered than appearance1 may be pared off and melted down for various kitchen uses4 ,when thus reduced in size1 the mutton will be soon roasted4 ,if it is to be dressed in the usual way1 the butcher should be desired to take off the skin2 and care should be taken to preserve the fat from being ever so lightly burned3 it should be managed1 indeed1 in the same manner as the saddle1 in every respect1 and carved also in the same way1 either in its entire length or in oblique slices4 ,without the fat1 #a to #a-a_/b hour2 with #a-a_/d to #a-c_/d hour4 ,,to ,,dress ,a ,,loin ,,of ,,mutton ,,like ,,venison4 ,skin and bone a loin of mutton1 and lay it into a stewpan1 or braising-pan1 with a pint of water1 a large onion stuck with a dozen cloves1 half a pint of port wine and a spoonful of vinegar2 add1 when it boils1 a small faggot of thyme and parsley1 and some pepper and salt3 let it stew three hours1 and turn it often4 ,make some gravy of the bones1 and add it at intervals to the mutton when required4 ,this receipt comes to us so strongly recommended by persons who have partaken frequently of the dish1 that we have not thought it needful to prove it ourselves4 #c hours4 ,,roast ,,neck ,,of ,,mutton4 ,this is a very favourite joint in many families1 the flesh being more tender and succulent than that even of the loin2 and when only a small roast is required1 the best end of the neck of mutton1 or the middle1 if divested of a large portion of the fat and cut into good shape1 will furnish one of appropriate size and of excellent quality4 ,let the ends be cut quite even and the bones short1 so as to give a handsome squareness of form to the meat4 ,the butcher1 if directed to do so1 will chop off the chine bone1 and divide the long bones sufficiently at the joints to prevent any difficulty in separating them at table4 ,from four to five pounds weight of the neck will require from an hour to an hour and a quarter of roasting at a clear and brisk1 but not fierce1 fire4 ,it should be placed at a distance until it is heated through1 and then moved nearer1 and kept thoroughly basted until it is done4 ,tomatas baked or roasted may be sent to table with it2 or a little plain gravy and red currant-jelly2 or it may be served without either4 ,when the entire joint1 with the exception of the scrag-end 7which should always be taken off71 is cooked1 proportionate time must be allowed for it4 ,,to ,,roast ,a ,,shoulder ,,of ,,mutton4 ,flour it well1 and baste it constantly with its own dripping2 do not place it close enough to the fire for the fat to be in the slightest degree burned1 or even too deeply browned4 ,an hour and a half will roast it1 if it be of moderate size4 ,stewed onions are often sent to table with it4 ,a shoulder of mutton is sometimes boiled1 and smothered with onion sauce4 #a-a_/b hour4 ,,the ,,cavalier',s ,,broil4 ,half roast or stew1 or parboil1 a small1 or moderate-sized shoulder of mutton2 lift it into a hot dish1 score it on both sides down to the bone1 season it well with fine salt and cayenne or pepper1 and finish cooking it upon the gridiron over a brisk fire4 ,skim the fat from any gravy that may have flowed from it1 and keep the dish which contains it quite hot to receive the joint again4 ,warm a cupful of pickled mushrooms1 let a part of them be minced1 and strew them over the broil when it is ready to be served2 arrange the remainder round it1 and send it instantly to table4 ,the reader will scarcely need to be told that this is an excellent dish4 ,,forced ,,shoulder ,,of ,,mutton4 ,cut off all the flesh from the inside of the joint down to the blade-bone1 and reserve it for a separate dish4 ,it may be lightly browned with some turnips or carrots1 or both1 and made into a small harrico or stewed simply in its own gravy1 or it will make in part1 a pie or pudding4 ,bone the mutton 7see page #bai71 flatten it on a table1 lay over the inside some thin and neatly-trimmed slices of striped bacon1 and spread over them some good veal forcemeat 7,no4 #a1 ,chapter ,,viii47 to within an inch of the outer edge2 roll the joint up tightly towards the knuckle 7of which the bone may be left in or not1 at pleasure71 secure it well with tape or twine1 and stew it gently in good gravy1 from four hours to four and a half4 #d to #d-a_/b hours4 ,obs4--,in ,france it is usual to substitute sausage-meat for the bacon and veal stuffing in this dish1 but it does not appear to us to be well suited to it4 ,,mutton ,,cutlets ,,stewed ,,in ,,their ,,own ,,gravy4 7,good47 ,trim the fat entirely from some cutlets taken from the loin2 just dip them into cold water1 dredge them moderately with pepper1 and plentifully on both sides with flour2 rinse a thick iron saucepan with spring water1 and leave three or four tablespoonsful in it2 arrange the cutlets in one flat layer1 if it can be done conveniently1 and place them over a very gentle fire2 throw in a little salt when they begin to stew1 and let them simmer as softly as possible1 but without ceasing1 from an hour and a quarter to an hour and a half4 ,if dressed with great care1 which they require1 they will be equally tender1 easy of digestion1 and nutritious2 and being at the same time free from everything which can disagree with the most delicate stomach1 the receipt will be found a valuable one for invalids4 ,the mutton should be of good quality1 but the excellence of the dish mainly depends on its being most gently stewed2 for if allowed to boil quickly all the gravy will be dried up1 and the meat will be unfit for table4 ,the cutlets must be turned when they are half done3 two or three spoonsful of water or gravy may be added to them should they not yield sufficient moisture2 or if closely arranged in a single layer at first1 water may be poured in to half their depth4 ,the advantage of this receipt is1 that none of the nutriment of the meat is lost2 for that which escapes from the cutlets remains in the gravy1 which should all be served with them3 any fat which may be perceived upon it should be carefully skimmed off4 ,cold broth used for it instead of water will render it extremely good4 #a-a_/d to #a-c_/d hour4 ,,to ,,broil ,,mutton ,,cutlets4 7,,entr,e47 ,these may be taken from the loin1 or the best end of the neck1 but the former are generally preferred4 ,trim off a portion of the fat1 or the whole of it1 unless it be liked2 pepper the cutlets1 heat the gridiron1 rub it with a bit of the mutton suet1 broil them over a brisk fire1 and turn them often until they are done2 this1 for the generality of eaters1 will be in about eight minutes1 if they are not more than half an inch thick1 which they should not be4 ,french cooks season them with pepper and salt1 and brush them lightly with dissolved butter or oil1 before they are laid to the fire1 and we have found the cutlets so managed extremely good4 ,lightly broiled1 #g to #h minutes4 ,well done1 #aj minutes4 ,obs4--,a cold ,matre d',htel sauce may be laid under the cutlets when they are dished2 or they may be served quite dry1 or with brown gravy2 or with good melted butter seasoned with mushroom catsup1 cayenne1 and chili vinegar or lemon-juice4 ,,china ,,chilo ,mince a pound of an undressed loin or leg of mutton1 with or without a portion of its fat2 mix with it two or three young lettuces shred small1 a pint of young peas1 a teaspoonful of salt1 half as much pepper1 four tablespoonsful of water1 from two to three ounces of good butter1 and1 if the flavour be liked1 a few green onions minced4 ,keep the whole well stirred with a fork over a clear and gentle fire until it is quite hot1 then place it closely covered by the side of the stove1 or on a high trivet1 that it may stew as softly as possible for a couple of hours4 ,one or even two half-grown cucumbers1 cut small by scoring the ends deeply as they are sliced1 or a quarter of a pint of minced mushrooms may be added with good effect2 or a dessertspoonful of currie-powder and a large chopped onion4 ,a dish of boiled rice should be sent to table with it4 ,mutton1 #a pint2 green peas1 #a pint3 young lettuces1 #b2 salt1 #a teaspoonful2 pepper1 #a_/b teaspoonful2 water1 #d tablespoonsful2 butter1 #b to #c oz43 #b hours4 ,varieties3 cucumbers1 #b2 or mushrooms minced1 #a_/d pint2 or currie-powder1 #a dessertspoonful1 and #a large onion4 ,a ,,good ,,family ,,stew ,,of ,,mutton4 ,put into a broad stewpan or saucepan1 a flat layer of mutton chops1 freed entirely from fat and from the greater portion of the bone1 or in preference a cutlet or two from the leg1 divided into bits of suitable size1 then just dipped into cold water1 seasoned with pepper1 and lightly dredged with flour2 on these put a layer of mild turnips sliced half an inch thick1 and cut up into squares2 then some carrots of the same thickness1 with a seasoning of salt and black pepper between them2 next1 another layer of mutton1 then plenty of vegetables1 and as much weak broth or cold water as will barely cover the whole2 bring them slowly to a boil1 and let them just simmer from two to three hours1 according to the quantity4 ,one or two minced onions may be strewed between the other vegetables when their flavour is liked4 ,the savour of the dish will be increased by browning the meat in a little butter before it is stewed1 and still more so by frying the vegetables lightly as well1 before they are added to it4 ,a head or two of celery would to many tastes improve the flavour of the whole4 ,in summer1 cucumber1 green onions1 shred lettuces1 and green peas may be substituted for the winter vegetables4 ,mutton1 free from fat1 #b-a_/b lbs42 turnips1 #c lbs2 carrots1 #c lbs42 celery 7if added71 #b small heads3 #b to #c hours4 ,obs4--,the fat and trimmings of the mutton used for this and for other dishes into which only the lean is admissible1 may be turned to useful account by cutting the whole up rather small1 and then boiling it in a quart of water to the pound1 with a little spice1 a bunch of herbs and some salt1 until the fat is nearly dissolved3 the liquid will then1 if strained off and left until cold1 make tolerable broth1 and the cake of fat which is on the top1 if again just melted and poured free of sediment into small pans1 will serve excellently for common pies and for frying kitchen dinners4 ,less water will of course produce broth of better quality1 and the addition of a small quantity of fresh meat or bones will render it very good4 ,,an ,,irish ,,stew4 ,take two pounds of small thick mutton cutlets with or without fat1 according to the taste of the persons to whom the stew is to be served2 take also four pounds of good potatoes1 weighed after they are pared2 slice them thick1 and put a portion of them in a flat layer into a large thick saucepan or stewpan2 season the mutton well with pepper1 and place some of it on the potatoes2 cover it with another layer1 and proceed in the same manner with all1 reserving plenty of the vegetable for the top2 pour in three quarters of a pint of cold water1 and add1 when the stew begins to boil1 an ounce of salt2 let it simmer gently for two hours1 and serve it very hot4 ,when the addition of onion is liked1 strew some minced over the potatoes4 ,mutton cutlets1 #b lbs42 potatoes1 #d lbs42 pepper1 #a_/b oz42 salt1 #a oz42 water1 #c_/d pint3 #b hours4 ,obs4--,for a real ,irish stew the potatoes should be boiled to a mash3 an additional quarter of an hour may be necessary for the full quantity here1 but for half of it two hours are quite sufficient4 ,a ,,baked ,,irish ,,stew4 ,fill a brown upright ,nottingham jar with alternate layers of mutton 7or beef71 sliced potatoes1 and mild onions2 and put in water and seasoning as above2 cover the top closely with whole potatoes 7pared71 and send the stew to a moderate oven4 ,the potatoes on the top should be well cooked and browned before the stew is served4 ,we have not considered it necessary to try this receipt1 which was given to us by some friends who keep an excellent table1 and who recommended it much4 ,it is1 of course1 suited only to a quite plain family dinner4 ,the onions can be omitted when their flavour is not liked4 ,,cutlets ,,of ,,cold ,,mutton4 ,trim into well-shaped cutlets1 which should not be very thin1 the remains of a roast loin or neck of mutton1 or of a quite underdressed stewed or boiled joint2 dip them into egg and well-seasoned bread-crumbs1 and broil or fry them over a quick fire that they may be browned and heated through without being too much done4 ,this is a very good mode of serving a half roasted loin or neck4 ,when the cutlets are broiled they should be dipped into1 or sprinkled thickly with butter just dissolved1 or they will be exceedingly dry2 a few additional crumbs should be made to adhere to them after they are moistened with this4 ,,mutton ,,kidneys ,,la ,,fran,,aise4 7,,entr,e47 ,skin six or eight fine fresh mutton kidneys1 and without opening them1 remove the fat2 slice them rather thin1 strew over them a large dessertspoonful of minced herbs1 of which two-thirds should be parsley and the remainder thyme1 with a tolerable seasoning of pepper or cayenne1 and some fine salt4 ,melt two ounces of butter in a frying-pan1 put in the kidneys and brown them quickly on both sides2 when nearly done1 stir amongst them a dessertspoonful of flour and shake them well in the pan2 pour in the third of a pint of gravy 7or of hot water in default of this71 the juice of half a lemon1 and as much of ,harvey's sauce1 or of mushroom catsup1 as will flavour the whole pleasantly2 bring these to the point of boiling1 and pour them into a dish garnished with fried sippets1 or lift out the kidneys first1 give the sauce a boil and pour it on them4 ,in ,france1 a couple of glasses of champagne1 or1 for variety1 of claret1 are frequently added to this dish3 one of port wine can be substituted for either of these4 ,a dessertspoonful of minced eschalots may be strewed over the kidneys with the herbs2 or two dozens of very small ones previously stewed until tender in fresh butter over a gentle fire1 may be added after they are dished4 ,this is a very excellent and approved receipt4 ,fried #f minutes4 ,,broiled ,,mutton ,,kidneys4 ,split them open lengthwise without dividing them1 strip off the skin and fat1 run a fine skewer through the points and across the back of the kidneys to keep them flat while broiling1 season them with pepper or cayenne1 lay them over a clear brisk fire1 with the cut sides towards it1 turn them in from four to five minutes1 and in as many more dish1 and serve them quickly1 with or without a cold ,matre d',htel sauce under them4 ,french cooks season them with pepper and fine salt1 and brush a very small quantity of oil or clarified butter over them before they are broiled3 we think this an improvement4 #h to #aj minutes4 ,,oxford ,,receipt ,,for ,,mutton ,,kidneys4 7,,breakfast ,,dish1 ,,or ,,entr,e47 ,fry gently in a little good butter1 a dozen crotons 7slices of bread1 of uniform shape and size1 trimmed free from crust71 cut half an inch thick1 about two inches and a half wide1 and from three to four in length3 lift them out and keep them hot4 ,split quite asunder six fine fresh kidneys1 after having freed them from the skin and fat2 season them with fine salt and cayenne1 arrange them evenly in a clean frying-pan1 and pour some clarified butter over them4 ,fry them over a somewhat brisk fire1 dish each half upon a croton1 make a sauce in the pan as for veal cutlets1 but use gravy for it instead of water1 should it be at hand2 add a little wine or catsup1 pour it round the crotons1 and serve the kidneys instantly4 #aj minutes4 ,,to ,,roast ,a ,,fore ,,quarter ,,of ,,lamb4 ,this should be laid to a clear brisk fire1 and carefully and plentifully basted from the time of its becoming warm until it is ready for table2 but though it requires quick roasting1 it must never be placed sufficiently near the fire to endanger the fat1 which is very liable to catch or burn4 ,when the joint is served1 the shoulder should be separated from the ribs with a sharp knife2 and a small slice of fresh butter1 a little cayenne1 and a squeeze of lemon juice should be laid between them2 if the cook be an expert carver1 this had better be done before the lamb is sent to table4 ,the cold ,matre d',htel sauce of ,chapter ,,vi4 may be substituted for the usual ingredients1 the parsley being omitted or not1 according to the taste4 ,serve good mint sauce1 and a fresh salad with this roast4 ,a leg1 shoulder1 or loin of lamb should be cooked by the same directions as the quarter1 a difference only being made in the time allowed for each4 ,fore quarter of lamb1 #a-c_/d to #b hours4 ,leg1 #a-a_/b hour 7less if very small72 shoulder1 #a to #a-a_/d hour4 ,obs4--,the time will vary a little1 of course1 from the difference in the weather1 and in the strength of the fire4 ,lamb should always be well roasted4 ,,saddle ,,of ,,lamb4 ,this is an exceedingly nice joint for a small party4 ,it should be roasted at a brisk fire1 and kept constantly basted with its own dripping3 it will require from an hour and three quarters to two hours roasting4 ,send it to table with mint sauce1 brown cucumber sauce1 and a salad4 #a-c_/d to #b hours4 ,obs4--,the following will be found an excellent receipt for mint sauce3--,with three heaped tablespoonsful of finely-chopped young mint1 mix two of pounded and sifted sugar1 and six of the best vinegar3 stir it until the sugar is dissolved4 ,,roast ,,loin ,,of ,,lamb4 ,place it at a moderate distance from a clear fire1 baste it frequently1 froth it when nearly done1 and serve it with the same sauces as the preceding joints4 ,a loin of lamb may be boiled and sent to table with white cucumber1 mushroom1 common white sauce1 or parsley and butter4 #a to #a-a_/d hour4 ,,stewed ,,leg ,,of ,,lamb ,,with ,,white ,,sauce4 7,,entr,e47#ha ,footnote #ha3 ,this may be served as a remove in a small unceremonious dinner4 ,choose a small plump leg of lamb1 not much exceeding five pounds in weight2 put it into a vessel nearly of its size1 with a few trimmings or a bone or two of undressed veal if at hand2 cover it with warm water1 bring it slowly to a boil1 clear off the scum with great care when it is first thrown to the surface1 and when it has all been skimmed off1 add a faggot of thyme and parsley1 and two carrots of moderate size4 ,let the lamb simmer only1 but without ceasing1 for an hour and a quarter2 serve it covered with bchamel1 or rich ,english white sauce1 and send a boiled tongue to table with it1 and some of the sauce in a tureen4 #a-a_/d hour4 ,,loin ,,of ,,lamb ,,stewed ,,in ,,butter4 7,,entr,e47 ,wash the joint1 and wipe it very dry2 skewer down the flap1 and lay it into a close-shutting and thick stewpan or saucepan1 in which three ounces of good butter have been just dissolved1 but not allowed to boil2 let it simmer slowly over a very gentle fire for two hours and a quarter1 and turn it when it is rather more than half done4 ,lift it out1 skim and pour the gravy over it2 send asparagus1 cucumber1 or soubise sauce to table with it2 or brown gravy1 mint sauce1 and a salad4 #b-a_/d hours4 ,,lamb ,,or ,,mutton ,,cutlets1 ,,with ,,soubise ,,sauce4 7,,entr,e47 ,the best end of two necks of either will be required for a handsome dish4 ,cut them thin with one bone to each2 trim off the fat and all the skin1 scrape the bones very clean that they may look white1 and season the cutlets with salt and white pepper2 brush them with egg1 dip them into very fine bread-crumbs1 then into clarified butter1 and again into the bread-crumbs1 which should be flattened evenly upon them1 and broil them over a very clear and brisk fire1 or fry them in a little good butter of a fine clear brown2 press them in two sheets of white blotting paper to extract the grease1 and dish them in a circle1 and pour into the centre a soubise sauce1 or a pure of cucumbers4 ,brown cucumber sauce or a rich gravy1 may be substituted for either of these in serving a quite simple dinner4 ,cutlets of the loin may be dressed in the same way after being dipped into crumbs of bread mixed with a full seasoning of minced herbs1 and with a small quantity of eschalot when its flavour is liked4 ,the small flat bone at the end of the cutlets should be taken off1 to give them a good appearance4 ,,lamb ,,cutlets ,,in ,,their ,,own ,,gravy4 ,follow exactly the receipt for mutton cutlets dressed in the same way1 but allow for those of lamb fifteen or twenty minutes less of time1 and an additional spoonful of liquid4 ,,cutlets ,,of ,,cold ,,lamb4 ,see the receipt for ,cutlets of ,cold ,mutton1 page #bdc4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,chapter ,,xiii4 ,pork4 ,illustration ,no4 #a4 ,the ,spare ,rib4 #b4 ,hand4 #c4 ,belly1 or ,spring4 #d4 ,fore ,loin4 #e4 ,hind ,loin4 #f4 ,leg4 ,in season from ,michaelmas to ,march3 should be avoided in very warm weather4 ,,to ,,choose ,,pork4 ,,this meat is so proverbially1 and we believe even dangerously unwholesome when ill fed1 or in any degree diseased1 that its quality should be closely examined before it is purchased4 ,when not home-reared1 it should be bought if possible of some respectable farmer or miller1 unless the butcher who supplies it can be perfectly relied on4 ,both the fat and lean should be very white1 and the latter finely grained2 the rind should be thin1 smooth1 and cool to the touch2 if it be clammy1 the pork is stale1 and should be at once rejected2 it ought also to be scrupulously avoided when the fat1 instead of being quite clear of all blemish1 is full of small kernels which are indicative of disease4 ,the manner of cutting up the pork varies in different counties1 and also according to the purposes for which it is intended4 ,the legs are either made into hams1 or slightly salted for a few days and boiled2 they are also sometimes roasted when the pork is not large nor coarse1 with a savoury forcemeat inserted between the skin and flesh of the knuckle4 ,the part of the shoulder provincially called the hand1 is also occasionally pickled in the same way as hams and bacon1 or it is salted and boiled1 but it is too sinewy for roasting4 ,after these and the head have been taken off1 the remainder1 without further division than being split down the back1 may be converted into whole sides1 or flitches as they are usually called1 of bacon2 but when the meat is large and required in part for various other purposes1 a chine may be taken out1 and the fat pared off the bones of the ribs and loins for bacon2 the thin part of the body converted into pickled pork1 and the ribs and other bones roasted1 or made into pies or sausages4 ,the feet1 which are generally salted down for immediate use1 are excellent if laid for two or three weeks into the same pickle as the hams1 then well covered with cold water1 and slowly boiled until tender4 ,the loins of young and delicate pork are roasted with the skin on2 and this is scored in regular stripes of about a quarter of an inch wide with the point of a sharp knife1 before the joints are laid to the fire4 ,the skin of the leg also is just cut through in the same manner4 ,this is done to prevent its blistering1 and to render it more easy to carve1 as the skin 7or crackling7 becomes so crisp and hard in the cooking that it is otherwise sometimes difficult to divide it4 ,to be at any time fit for table1 pork must be perfectly sweet1 and thoroughly cooked2 great attention also should be given to it when it is in pickle1 for if any part of it be long exposed to the air1 without being turned into1 or well and frequently basted with the brine1 it will often become tainted during the process of curing it4 ,,to ,,melt ,,lard4 ,strip the skin from the inside fat of a freshly killed and well-fed pig2 slice it small and thin2 put it into a new or well-scalded jar1 set it into a pan of boiling water1 and let it simmer over a clear fire4 ,as it dissolves1 strain it into small stone jars or deep earthen pans1 and when perfectly cold1 tie over it the skin that was cleared from the lard1 or bladders which have been thoroughly washed and wiped very dry4 ,lard thus prepared is extremely pure in flavour1 and keeps perfectly well if stored in a cool place2 it may be used with advantage in making common pastry1 as well as for frying fish1 and for various other purposes4 ,it is better to keep the last drainings of the fat apart from that which is first poured off1 as it will not be quite so fine in quality4 ,,to ,,preserve ,,unmelted ,,lard ,,for ,,many ,,months4 ,for the particular uses to which the leaf-fat1 or fleed1 can be advantageously applied1 see fleed-crust1 ,chapter ,,xviii4 ,it may be kept well during the summer months by rubbing fine salt rather plentifully upon it when it is first taken from the pig1 and letting it lie for a couple of days2 it should then be well drained1 and covered with a strong brine2 this in warmer weather should be changed occasionally4 ,when wanted for use1 lay it into cold water for two or three hours1 then wipe it dry1 and it will have quite the effect of the fresh fleed when made into paste4 ,inner fat of pig1 #f lbs42 fine salt1 #a_/b to #c_/d lb43 #b days4 ,brine3 to each quart of water1 #f oz4 salt4 ,,to ,,roast ,a ,,sucking ,,pig4 ,illustration ,after the pig has been scalded and prepared for the spit1 wipe it as dry as possible1 and put into the body about half a pint of fine bread-crumbs1 mixed with three heaped teaspoonsful of sage1 minced very small1 three ounces of good butter1 a large saltspoonful of salt1 and two-thirds as much of pepper or some cayenne4 ,sew it up with soft1 but strong cotton2 truss it as a hare1 with the fore legs skewered back1 and the hind ones forward2 lay it to a strong clear fire1 but keep it at a moderate distance1 as it would quickly blister or scorch if placed too near4 ,so soon as it has become warm1 rub it with a bit of butter tied in a fold of muslin or of thin cloth1 and repeat this process constantly while it is roasting4 ,when the gravy begins to drop from it1 put basins or small deep tureens under1 to catch it in4#hb ,as soon as the pig is of a fine light amber brown and the steam draws strongly towards the fire1 wipe it quite dry with a clean cloth1 and rub a bit of cold butter over it4 ,when it is half done1 a pig iron1 or in lieu of this1 a large flat iron should be hung in the centre of the grate1 or the middle of the pig will be done long before the ends4 ,when it is ready for table lay it into a very hot dish1 and before the spit is withdrawn1 take off and open the head and split the body in two2 chop together quickly the stuffing and the brains1 put them into half a pint of good veal gravy ready thickened1 add a glass of ,madeira or of sherry1 and the gravy which has dropped from the pig2 pour a small portion of this under the roast and serve the remainder as hot as possible in a tureen3 a little pounded mace and cayenne with a squeeze of lemon-juice1 may be added1 should the flavour require heightening4 ,fine bread sauce1 and plain gravy should likewise be served with it4 ,some persons still prefer the old-fashioned currant sauce to any other3 and many have the brains and stuffing stirred into rich melted butter1 instead of gravy2 but the receipt which we have given has usually been so much approved1 that we can recommend it with some confidence1 as it stands4 ,modern taste would perhaps be rather in favour of rich brown gravy and thick tomata sauce1 or sauce poivrade4 ,footnote #hb3 ,a deep oblong dish of suitable size seems better adapted to this purpose4 ,in dishing the pig lay the body flat in the middle1 and the head and ears at the ends and sides4 ,when very pure oil can be obtained1 it is preferable to butter for the basting3 it should be laid on with a bunch of feathers4 ,a pig of three weeks old is considered as best suited to the table1 and it should always be dressed if possible the day it is killed4 #a-a_/d to #a-c_/d hour4 ,,baked ,,pig4 ,prepare the pig exactly as for roasting2 truss1 and place it in the dish in which it is to be sent to the oven1 and anoint it thickly in every part with white of egg which has been slightly beaten2 it will require no basting1 nor further attention of any kind1 and will be well crisped by this process4 ,,pig ,,la ,,tartare ,when the shoulders of a cold roast pig are left entire1 take them off with care1 remove the skin1 trim them into good form1 dip them into clarified butter or very pure salad oil1 then into fine crumbs highly seasoned with cayenne and mixed with about a half-teaspoonful of salt4 ,broil them over a clear brisk fire1 and send them quickly to table1 as soon as they are heated through and equally browned1 with tomata sauce1 or sauce ,robert4 ,curried crumbs and a currie-sauce will give an excellent variety of this dish2 and savoury herbs with two or three eschalots chopped small together1 and mixed with the bread-crumbs1 and brown eschalot sauce to accompany the broil1 will likewise be an acceptable one to many tastes4 ,,sucking ,,pig ,,en ,,blanquette4 7,,entr,e47 ,raise the flesh from the bones of a cold roast pig1 free it from the crisp outer skin or crackling1 and cut it down into small handsome slices4 ,dissolve a bit of butter the size of an egg1 and throw in a handful of button-mushrooms1 cleaned and sliced2 shake these over the fire for three or four minutes1 then stir to them a dessertspoonful of flour and continue to shake or toss them gently1 but do not allow them to brown4 ,add a small bunch of parsley1 a bay-leaf1 a middling-sized blade of mace1 some salt1 a small quantity of cayenne or white pepper1 half a pint of good veal or beef broth1 and from two to three glasses of light white wine4 ,let these boil gently until reduced nearly one third2 take out the parsley and mace1 lay in the meat1 and bring it slowly to the point of simmering2 stir to it the beaten yolks of three fresh eggs1 and the strained juice of half a lemon ,serve the blanquette very hot4 ,,to ,,roast ,,pork4 ,when the skin is left on the joint which is to be roasted1 it must be scored in narrow strips of equal width1 before it is put to the fire1 and laid at a considerable distance from it at first1 that the meat may be heated through before the skin hardens or begins to brown2 it must never stand still for an instant1 and the basting should be constant4 ,pork is not at the present day much served at very good tables1 particularly in this form2 and it is so still less with the old savoury stuffing of sage and onions1 though some eaters like it always with the leg3 when it is ordered for this joint1 therefore prepare it as directed for a goose1 at page #afj1 and after having loosened the skin from the knuckle1 insert as much as can well be secured in it4 ,a little clarified butter or salad oil may be brushed over the skin quite at first1 particularly should the meat not be very fat1 but unless remarkably lean1 it will speedily yield sufficient dripping to baste it with4 ,joints from which the fat has been pared1 will require of course far less roasting than those on which the crackling is retained4 ,brown gravy1 and apple or tomata sauce1 are the usual accompaniments to all roasts of pork except a sucking pig2 they should always be thoroughly cooked4 ,leg of pork of #h lbs41 #c hours2 loin of from #e to #f lbs41 with the skin on1 #b to #b-a_/b hours2 spare rib of #f to #g lbs41 #a-a_/b hour4 ,,to ,,roast ,a ,,saddle ,,of ,,pork4 ,the skin of this joint may be removed entirely1 but if left on it must be scored lengthwise1 or in the direction in which it will be carved4 ,the pork should be young1 of fine quality1 and of moderate size4 ,roast it very carefully1 either by the directions given in the preceding receipt1 or when the skin is taken off1 by those for a saddle of mutton1 allowing in the latter case from three quarters of an hour to a full hour more of the fire for it in proportion to its weight4 ,serve it with good brown gravy and tomata sauce1 or sauce ,robert2 or with apple sauce should it be preferred4 #bj minutes to the pound1 quite ,,tn3 text missing4 ,,to ,,broil ,,or ,,fry ,,pork ,,cutlets4 ,cut them about half an inch thick from a delicate loin of pork1 trim them into neat form1 and take off part of the fat1 or the whole of it when it is not liked2 dredge a little pepper or cayenne upon them1 and broil them over a clear and moderate fire from fifteen to eighteen minutes3 sprinkle a little fine salt upon them just before they are dished4 ,they may be dipped into egg and then into bread-crumbs mixed with minced sage1 and finished in the usual way4#hc ,when fried1 flour them well1 and season them with salt and pepper first4 ,serve them with gravy in the pan1 or with sauce ,robert4 ,footnote #hc3 ,if broiled1 with the addition of these a little clarified butter must be added to the egg1 or sprinkled on the cutlets4 ,,cobbett',s ,,receipt ,,for ,,curing ,,bacon4 8,all other parts being taken away1 the two sides that remain1 and which are called flitches1 are to be cured for bacon4 ,they are first rubbed with salt on their inside1 or flesh sides1 then placed one on the other1 the flesh sides uppermost in a salting trough1 which has a gutter round its edges to drain away the brine2 for to have sweet and fine bacon1 the flitches must not be sopping in brine1 which gives it the sort of taste that barrel-pork and sea-junk have1 and than which is nothing more villainous4 ,everyone knows how different is the taste of fresh dry salt from that of salt in a dissolved state4 ,therefore1 change the salt often2 once in four or five days4 ,let it melt and sink in1 but let it not lie too long4 ,change the flitches1 put that at the bottom which was first on the top4 ,do this a couple of times4 ,this mode will cost you a great deal more in salt than the sopping mode2 but without it your bacon will not be so sweet and fine1 nor keep so well4 ,as to the time required for making the flitches sufficiently salt1 it depends on circumstances2 the thickness of the flitch1 the state of the weather1 the place wherein the salting is going on4 ,it takes a longer time for a thick than for a thin flitch2 it takes longer in dry than in damp weather1 it takes longer in a dry than in a damp place4 ,but for the flitches of a hog of five score1 in weather not very dry or very damp1 about six weeks may do2 and as yours is to be fat1 which receives little injury from over-salting1 give time enough2 for you are to have bacon till ,christmas comes again4 ,the place for salting should1 like a dairy1 always be cool1 but always admit of a free circulation of air2 confined air1 though cool1 will taint meat sooner than the midday sun accompanied with a breeze4 ,with regard to smoking the bacon1 two precautions are necessary3 first to hang the flitches where no rain comes down upon them1 and next1 that the smoke must proceed from wood1 not peat1 turf1 nor coal4 ,as to the time that it requires to smoke a flitch1 it must depend a good deal upon whether there be a constant fire beneath1 and whether the fire be large or small4 ,a month will do if the fire be pretty constant1 and such as a farm house fire usually is4 ,but oversmoking1 or rather1 too long hanging in the air1 makes the bacon rust4 ,great attention should1 therefore1 be paid to this matter4 ,the flitch ought not to be dried up to the hardness of a board1 and yet it ought to be perfectly dry4 ,before you hang it up1 lay it on the floor1 scatter the flesh-side pretty thickly over with bran or with some fine saw-dust1 not of deal or fir4 ,rub it on the flesh1 or pat it well down upon it4 ,this keeps the smoke from getting into the little openings1 and makes a sort of crust to be dried on4 8,to keep the bacon sweet and good1 and free from hoppers1 sift fine some clean and dry wood-ashes4 ,put some at the bottom of a box or chest long enough to hold a flitch of bacon4 ,lay in one flitch2 and then put in more ashes1 then another flitch1 and cover this with six or eight inches of the ashes4 ,the place where the box or chest is kept ought to be dry1 and should the ashes become damp they should be put in the fire-place to dry1 and when cold1 put back again4 ,with these precautions the bacon will be as good at the end of the year as on the first day40 ,obs4--,although the preceding directions for curing the bacon are a little vague as regards the proportions of salt and pork1 we think those for its after-management will be acceptable to many of our readers1 as in our damp climate it is often a matter of great difficulty to preserve hams and bacon through the year from rust4 ,a ,,genuine ,,yorkshire ,,receipt ,,for ,,curing ,,hams ,,and ,,bacon4 8,let the swine be put up to fast for twenty-four hours before they are killed 7and observe that neither a time of severe frost1 nor very damp weather1 is favourable for curing bacon74 ,after a pig has been killed and scalded1 let it hang twelve hours before it is cut up1 then for every stone or fourteen pounds' weight of the meat1 take one pound of salt1 an ounce and a quarter of saltpeter1 and half an ounce of coarse sugar4 ,rub the sugar and saltpetre first into the fleshy parts of the pork1 and remove carefully with a fork any extravasated blood that may appear on it1 together with the broken vessels adjoining2 apply the salt especially to those parts1 as well as to the shank-ends of the hams1 and any other portions of the flesh that are more particularly exposed4 ,before the salt is added to the meat1 warm it a little before the fire1 and use only a part of it in the first instance2 then1 as it dissolves1 or is absorbed by the meat1 add the remainder at several different times4 ,let the meat in the meanwhile lie either on clean straw1 or on a cold brick or stone floor3 it will require from a fortnight to three weeks' curing1 according to the state of the atmosphere4 ,when done1 hang it in a cool dry place1 where there is a thorough current of air1 and let it remain there until it is perfectly dry1 when the salt will be found to have crystallized upon the surface4 ,the meat may then be removed to your store1 and kept in a close chest1 surrounded with clean outer straw4 ,if very large1 the hams will not be in perfection in less than twelve months from the time of their being stored40 ,pork #bj stone2 salt1 #bj lbs42 saltpetre1 #bj oz42 sugar1 #aj oz42 #ad to #ba days4 ,,kentish ,,mode ,,of ,,cutting ,,up ,,and ,,curing ,a ,,pig4 ,to a porker of sixteen stone ,kentish weight 7that is to say1 eight pounds to the stone1 or nine stone two pounds of common weight71 allow two gallons of salt1 two pounds of saltpetre1 one pound of coarse sugar1 and two pounds of bay-salt well dried and reduced to powder4 ,put aside the hams and cheeks to be cured by themselves2 let the feet1 ears1 tail1 and eye-parts of the head be salted for immediate eating2 the blade-bones1 and ends of the loins and ribs reserved for sausage-meat should it be wanted1 and the loin and spare-ribs for roasting4 ,divide and salt the remainder thus3 ,mix well together the saltpetre1 sugar1 and bay-salt1 and rub the pork gently with them in every part2 cover the bottom of the pickling tub with salt1 and pack in the pork as closely as possible1 with a portion of the remaining salt between each layer4 ,a very little water is sometimes sprinkled in to facilitate the dissolving of the salt into a brine1 but this is always better avoided1 and in damp weather will not be needed4 ,if in a fortnight it should not have risen1 so as almost entirely to cover the meat1 boil a strong brine of salt1 saltpetre1 sugar1 and bay-salt2 let it remain until perfectly cold1 and then pour it over the pork4 ,a board1 with a heavy stone weight upon it1 should be kept upon the meat to force it down under the brine4 ,in from three to four months it will be fit for table1 and will be delicate and excellent pickled pork4 ,the pickling parts of a porker of sixteen stone 7,kentish weight1 or nine stone two pounds of common weight1 or fourteen pounds to the stone72 common salt1 #b gallons2 saltpetre1 #b lbs42 coarse sugar1 #a lb43 bay-salt1 #b lbs4 ,,french ,,bacon ,,for ,,larding4 ,cut the bacon from the pig with as little lean to it as possible4 ,rub it well in every part with salt which has been dried1 reduced to powder1 and sifted2 put the layers of bacon close against and upon each other1 in a shallow wooden trough1 and set in a cool1 but not a damp cellar2 add more salt all round the bacon1 and lay a board1 with a very heavy weight upon it4 ,let it remain for six weeks1 then hang it up in a dry and airy place4 ,pork1 #ad lbs42 salt1 #ad oz43 #f weeks4 ,,to ,,pickle ,,cheeks ,,of ,,bacon ,,and ,,hams4 ,one pound of common salt1 one pound of the coarsest sugar1 and one ounce of saltpetre1 in fine powder1 to each stone 7fourteen pounds7 of the meat will answer this purpose extremely well4 ,an ounce of black pepper can be added1 if liked1 and when less sugar is preferred1 the proportion can be diminished one half1 and the quantity of salt as much increased4 ,bacon also may be cured by this receipt1 or by the ,bordyke one for hams4 ,a month is sufficient time for the salting1 unless the pork be very large1 when five weeks must be allowed for a ham4 ,the ingredients should be well mixed1 and all applied at the same time4 ,to each #ad lbs4 of pork1 salt1 #a lb42 coarse sugar1 #a lb42 saltpetre1 #a oz42 pepper 7if used71 #a oz43 #d to #e weeks4 ,,monsieur ,,ude's ,,receipt1 ,,hams ,,superior ,,to ,,westphalia4 7,excellent47 8,take the hams as soon as the pig is sufficiently cold to be cut up1 rub them well with common salt1 and leave them for three days to drain2 throw away the brine1 and for a couple of hams of from fifteen to eighteen pounds weight1 mix together two ounces of saltpetre1 a pound of coarse sugar1 and a pound of common salt2 rub the hams in every part with these1 lay them into deep pickling-pans with the rind downwards1 and keep them for three days well covered with the salt and sugar2 then pour over them a bottle of good vinegar1 and turn them in the brine1 and baste them with it daily for a month2 drain them well1 rub them with bran1 and let them be hung for a month high in a chimney over a wood-fire to be smoked40 ,hams1 of from #ae to #ah lbs4 each1 #b2 to drain #c days4 ,common salt1 and coarse sugar1 each #a lb42 saltpetre1 #b oz43 #c days4 ,vinegar1 #a bottle3 #a month4 ,to be smoked #a month4 ,obs4--,such of our readers as shall make trial of this admirable receipt1 will acknowledge1 we doubt not1 that the hams thus cured are in reality superior to those of ,westphalia4 ,it was originally given to the public by the celebrated ,french cook1 ,monsieur ,ude4 ,he directs that the hams when smoked should be hung as high as possible from the fire1 that the fat may not be melted2 a very necessary precaution1 as the mode of their being cured renders it peculiarly liable to do so4 ,this1 indeed1 is somewhat perceptible in the cooking1 which ought1 therefore1 to be conducted with especial care4 ,the hams should be very softly simmered1#hd and not over-done4 ,they should be large1 and of finely-fed pork1 or the receipt will not answer4 ,we give the result of our first trial of it1 which was perfectly successful1 the ham cured by it being of the finest possible flavour4 ,footnote #hd3 ,we have not had the trial made ourselves1 but we think they would be even finer baked than boiled4 ,leg of ,suffolk farm-house pork1 #ad to #ae lbs42 saltpetre1 #a-a_/d oz42 strong coarse salt1 #f oz42 coarse sugar1 #h oz43 #c days4 ,fine whitewine vinegar1 #a pint4 ,in pickle1 turned daily1 #a month4 ,smoked over wood1 #a month4 ,obs4--8,when two hams are pickled together1 a smaller proportion of the ingredients is required for each1 than for one which is cured by itself40 ,,super-,,excellent ,,bacon4 ,for several successive years1 after first testing the above receipt1 we had it adopted for curing bacon1 with even more highly satisfactory results1 as it was of incomparable flavour1 and remained good for a great length of time1 the vinegar preserving it entirely from becoming rusted4 ,well-fed pork of delicate size was always used for it1 and excellent vinegar4 ,the ingredients were added in the proportions given in the receipt for the ,suffolk ham which preceeds this1 and the same time was allowed for the salting and smoking4 ,,hams4 7,bordyke ,receipt47 ,after the hams have been rubbed with salt1 and well drained from the brine1 according to our previous directions1 take1 for each fourteen pounds weight of the pork1 one ounce of saltpetre in fine powder mixed with three ounces of very brown sugar2 rub the meat in every part with these1 and let it remain some hours1 then cover it well with eight ounces of bay-salt1 dried and pounded1 and mixed with four ounces of common salt3 in four days add one pound of treacle1 and keep the hams turned daily1 and well basted with the pickle for a month4 ,hang them up to drain for a night1 fold them in brown paper1 and send them to be smoked for a month4 ,an ounce of ground black pepper is often mixed with the saltpetre in this receipt1 and three ounces of bruised juniper-berries are rubbed on to the meat before the salt is added1 when hams of a very high flavour are desired4 ,ham1 #ad lbs42 saltpetre1 #a oz42 coarse sugar1 #c oz43 #h to #ab hours4 ,bay-salt1 #a_/b lb42 common salt1 #d oz43 #d days4 ,treacle1 #a lb43 #a month4 ,to heighten flavour1 black pepper1 #a oz2 juniper-berries1 #c oz4 ,,to ,,boil ,a ,,ham4 ,the degree of soaking which must be given to a ham before it is boiled1 must depend both on the manner in which it has been cured1 and on its age4 ,if highly salted1 hard1 and old1 a day and night1 or even longer1 may be requisite to dilate the pores sufficiently1 and to extract a portion of the salt4 ,to do either effectually the water must be several times changed during the steeping4 ,we generally find hams cured by any of the receipts which we have given in this chapter quite enough soaked in twelve hours2 and they are more frequently laid into water only early in the morning of the day on which they are boiled4 ,those pickled by ,monsieur ,ude's receipt need much less steeping than any others4 ,after the ham has been scraped1 or brushed1 as clean as possible1 pare away lightly any part which1 from being blackened or rusty1 would disfigure it2 though it is better not to cut the flesh at all unless it be really requisite for the good appearance of the joint4 ,lay it into a ham-kettle1 or into any other vessel of a similar form1 and cover it plentifully with cold water2 bring it very slowly to boil1 and clear off carefully the scum which will be thrown up in great abundance4 ,so soon as the water has been cleared from this1 draw back the pan quite to the edge of the stove1 that the ham may be simmered softly but steadily1 until it is tender4 ,on no account allow it to boil fast4 ,a bunch of herbs and three or four carrots1 thrown in directly after the water has been skimmed1 will improve it4 ,when it can be probed very easily with a sharp skewer1 or larding-pin1 lift it out1 strip off the skin1 and should there be an oven at hand1 set it in for a few minutes after having laid it on a drainer2 strew fine raspings over it1 or grate a hard-toasted crust1 or sift upon it the prepared bread of ,chapter ,v41 unless it is to be glazed1 when neither of these must be used4 ,small ham1 #c-a_/b to #d hours2 moderate sized1 #d to #d-a_/b hours2 very large1 #e to #e-a_/b hours4 ,obs4--,we have seen the following manner of boiling a ham recommended1 but we have not tried it3--8,put into the water in which it is to be boiled1 a quart of old cider and a pint of vinegar1 a large bunch of sweet herbs1 and a bay leaf4 ,when it is two-thirds done1 skin1 cover it with raspings1 and set it in an oven until it is done enough3 it will prove incomparably superior to a ham boiled in the usual way40 ,,to ,,garnish ,,and ,,ornament ,,hams ,,in ,,various ,,ways4 ,when a ham has been carefully and delicately boiled1 the rind while it is still warm1 may be carved in various fanciful shapes to decorate it2 and a portion of it left round the knuckle in a semi-circular form of four or five inches deep1 may at all times be easily scollopped at the edge or cut into points 7vandykes74 ,this1 while preserving a character of complete simplicity for the dish1 will give it an air of neatness and finish at a slight cost of time and trouble4 ,a paper frill should be placed round the bone4 ,the ,germans cut the ham-rind after it has been stripped from the joint1 into small leaves and similar 8prettinesses10#he and arrange them in a garland1 or other approved device1 upon its surface4 ,in ,ireland and elsewhere1 bread evenly sliced1 and stamped out with cutters much smaller than a fourpenny-piece1 then carefully fried or coloured in the oven1 is used to form designs upon hams after they are glazed4 ,large dice of clear firm savoury jelly form their most appropriate garnish1 because they are intended to be eaten with them4 ,for the manner of making this1 and glaze also see ,chapter ,,iv4 ,footnote #he3 ,this should be done with a confectionary or paste cutter4 ,the ham shown in ,plate ,v41 which follows the directions for 8,carving10 is of very good appearance2 but in common ,english kitchens generally1 even the degree of artistic skill required to form its decorations well1 is not often to be met with4 ,,french ,,receipt ,,for ,,boiling ,a ,,ham4 ,after having soaked1 thoroughly cleaned1 and trimmed the ham1 put over it a little very sweet clean hay1 and tie it up in a thin cloth2 place it in a ham kettle1 a braising pan1 or any other vessel as nearly of its size as can be1 and cover it with two parts of cold water and one of light white wine 7we think the reader will perhaps find cider a good substitute for this72 add1 when it boils and has been skimmed1 four or five carrots1 two or three onions1 a large bunch of savoury herbs1 and the smallest bit of garlic4 ,let the whole simmer gently from four to five hours1 or longer should the ham be very large4 ,when perfectly tender1 lift it out1 take off the rind1 and sprinkle over it some fine crumbs1 or some raspings of bread mixed with a little finely minced parsley4 ,obs4--,foreign cooks generally leave hams1 braised joints1 and various other prepared meats intended to be served cold1 to cool down partially in the liquor in which they are cooked2 and this renders them more succulent2 but for small frugal families the plan does not altogether answer1 because the moisture of the surface 7which would evaporate quickly if they were taken out quite hot7 prevents their keeping well for any length of time4 ,the same objection exists to serving hams laid upon1 or closely garnished with savoury jelly 7aspic71 which becomes much more quickly unfit for table than the hams themselves4 ,these considerations1 which may appear insignificant to some of our readers1 will have weight with those who are compelled to regulate their expenses with economy4 ,,to ,,bake ,a ,,ham4 ,unless when too salt from not being sufficiently soaked1 a ham 7particularly a young and fresh one7 eats much better baked than boiled1 and remains longer good4 ,the safer plan to ensure its being sufficiently steeped1 is to lay it into plenty of cold water over night4 ,the following day soak it for an hour or more in warm water1 wash it delicately clean1 trim smoothly off all rusty parts1 and lay it with the rind downwards into a large common pie-dish2 press an oiled paper closely over it1 and then fasten securely to the edge of the dish a thick cover of coarse paste2 and send the ham to a moderate oven1 of which the heat will be well sustained until it is baked4 ,or1 when more convenient1 lay the ham at once--rind downwards--on the paste1 of which sufficient should be made1 and rolled off to an inch in thickness1 to completely envelope it4 ,press a sheet of oiled foolscap paper upon it2 gather up the paste firmly all round1 draw and pinch the edges together1 and fold them over on the upper side of the ham1 taking care to close them so that no gravy can escape4 ,send it to a well-heated1 but not a fierce oven4 ,a very small ham will require quite three hours baking1 and a large one five4 ,the crust and the skin must be removed while it is hot4 ,when part only of a ham is dressed1 this mode is better far than boiling it4 ,,to ,,boil ,,bacon4 ,when very highly salted and dried1 it should be soaked for an hour before it is dressed4 ,scrape and wash it well1 cover it plentifully with cold water1 let it both heat and boil slowly1 remove all the scum with care1 and when a fork or skewer will penetrate the bacon easily lift it out1 strip off the skin1 and strew raspings of bread over the top1 or grate upon it a hard-crust which has been toasted until it is crisp quite through2 or should it be at hand1 use for the purpose the bread recommended at page #ajc1 then dry it a little before the fire1 or set it for a few minutes into a gentle oven4 ,bacon requires long boiling1 but the precise time depends upon its quality1 the flesh of young porkers becoming tender much sooner than that of older ones2 sometimes too1 the manner in which the animal has been fed renders the meat hard1 and it will then1 unless thoroughly cooked1 prove very indigestible4 ,from ten to fifteen minutes less for the pound1 must be allowed for unsmoked bacon1 or for pickled pork4 ,smoked bacon 7striped71 #b lbs41 from #a-a_/d to #a-a_/b hour2 unsmoked bacon or pork1 #a to #a-a_/d hour4 ,obs4--,the thickest part of a large side or flitch of bacon will require from twenty to thirty minutes longer boiling than the thinner side4 ,,bacon ,,broiled ,,or ,,fried4 ,cut it evenly in thin slices or rashers1 as they are generally called1 pare from them all rind and rust1 curl them round1 fasten them with small slight skewers1 then fry1 broil1 or toast them in a ,dutch oven2 draw out the skewers before they are sent to table4 ,a few minutes will dress them either way4 ,they may also be cooked without being curled4 ,the rind should always be taken off1 and the bacon gently toasted1 grilled1 or fried1 that it may be well done without being too much dried or hardened3 it should be cut thin4 ,,dressed ,,rashers ,,of ,,bacon4 ,slice rather thicker than for frying some cold boiled bacon1 and strew it lightly on both sides with fine raspings of bread1 or with a grated crust which has been very slowly and gradually toasted until brown quite through4 ,toast or warm the rashers in a ,dutch oven1 and serve them with veal cutlets1 or any other delicate meat4 ,the bacon thus dressed is much more delicate than when broiled or fried without the previous boiling4 #d to #e minutes4 ,,tonbridge ,,brawn4 ,split open the head of a pig of middling size1 remove the brain and all the bones1 strew the inside rather thickly with fine salt1 and let it drain until the following day4 ,cleanse the ears and feet in the same manner3 wipe them all from the brine1 lay them into a large pan1 and rub them well with an ounce and a half of saltpetre mixed with six ounces of sugar2 in twelve hours1 add six ounces of salt2 the next day pour a quarter of a pint of good vinegar over them1 and keep them turned in the pickle every twenty-four hours for a week2 then wash it off the ears and feet1 and boil them for about an hour and a half2 bone the feet while they are warm1 and trim the gristle from the large ends of the ears4 ,when these are ready1 mix a large grated nutmeg with a teaspoonful and a half of mace1 half a teaspoonful of cayenne1 and as much of cloves4 ,wash1 but do not soak the head2 wipe and flatten it on a board2 cut some of the flesh from the thickest parts1 and 7when the whole of the meat has been seasoned equally with the spices7 lay it on the thinnest2 intermix it with that of the ears and feet1 roll it up very tight1 and bind it firmly with broad tape2 fold a thin pudding-cloth quite closely round it1 and tie it securely at both ends4 ,a braising-pan1 from its form1 is best adapted for boiling it1 but if there be not one at hand1 place the head in a vessel adapted to its size1 with the bones and trimmings of the feet and ears1 a large bunch of savoury herbs1 two moderate-sized onions1 a small head of celery1 three or four carrots1 a teaspoonful of peppercorns1 and sufficient cold water to cover it well2 boil it very gently for four hours1 and leave it until two parts cold in the liquor in which it was boiled4 ,take off the cloth1 and put the brawn between two dishes or trenchers1 with a heavy weight on the upper one4 ,the next day take off the fillets of tape1 and serve the head whole or sliced with the brawn sauce of ,chapter ,,vi4 ,,italian ,,pork ,,cheese4 ,chop1 not very fine1 one pound of lean pork with two pounds of the inside fat2 strew over1 and mix thoroughly with them three teaspoonsful of salt1 nearly half as much pepper1 a half-tablespoonful of mixed parsley1 thyme1 and sage 7and sweet-basil1 if it can be procured71 all minced extremely small4 ,press the meat closely and evenly into a shallow tin1--such as are used for ,yorkshire puddings will answer well1--and bake it in a very gentle oven from an hour to an hour and a half3 it is served cold in slices4 ,should the proportion of fat be considered too much1 it can be diminished on a second trial4 ,minced mushrooms or truffles may be added with very good effect to all meat cakes1 or compositions of this kind4 ,lean of pork1 #a lb42 fat1 #b lbs42 salt1 #c teaspoonsful2 pepper1 #a-a_/b teaspoonful2 mace1 #a_/b teaspoonful2 nutmeg1 #a small2 mixed herbs1 #a large tablespoonful3 #a to #a-a_/b hour4 ,,sausage-,,meat ,,cake1 ,,or1 ,,pain ,,de ,,porc ,,frais4 ,season very highly from two to three pounds of good sausage-meat1 both with spices and with sage1 or with thyme and parsley1 if these be preferred2 press the mixture into a pan1 and proceed exactly as for the veal-cake of ,chapter ,,xi4 ,a few minced eschalots can be mixed with the meat for those who like their flavour4 ,,sausages4 ,common farm-house sausages are made with nearly equal parts of fat and lean pork1 coarsely chopped1 and seasoned with salt and pepper only4 ,they are put into skins 7which have previously been turned inside out1 scraped very thin1 washed with extreme nicety1 and wiped very dry71 then twisted into links1 and should be hung in a cool airy larder1 when they will remain good for some time4 ,odd scraps and trimmings of pork are usually taken for sausage-meat when the pig is killed and cut up at home2 but the chine and blade-bone are preferred in general for the purpose4 ,the pork rinds1 as we have already stated1#hf will make a strong and almost flavourless jelly1 which may be used with excellent effect for stock1 and which1 with the addition of some pork-bones1 plenty of vegetables1 and some dried peas1 will make a very nutritious soup for those who do not object to the pork-flavour which the bones will give4 ,half an ounce of salt1 and nearly or quite a quarter of an ounce of pepper will sufficiently season each pound of the sausage-meat4 ,footnote #hf3 ,see ,soupe des ,galles1 ,chapter ,i4 ,,kentish ,,sausage-,,meat4 ,to three pounds of lean pork1 add two of fat1 and let both be taken clear of skin4 ,as sausages are lighter1 though not so delicate1 when the meat is somewhat coarsely chopped1 this difference should be attended to in making them4 ,when the fat and lean are partially mixed1 strew over them two ounces and a half of dry salt1 beaten to powder1 and mixed with one ounce of ground black pepper1 and three large tablespoonsful of sage1 very finely minced4 ,turn the meat with the chopping-knife1 until the ingredients are well blended4 ,test it before it is taken off the block1 by frying a small portion1 that if more seasoning be desired1 it may at once be added4 ,a full-sized nutmeg and a small dessertspoonsful of pounded mace1 would1 to many tastes1 improve it4 ,this sausage-meat is usually formed into cakes1 which1 after being well floured1 are roasted in a ,dutch oven4 ,they must be watched1 and often turned1 that no part may be scorched4 ,the meat may also be put into skins1 and dressed in any other way4 ,lean of pork1 #c lbs42 fat1 #b lbs42 salt1 #b-a_/b oz42 pepper1 #a oz12 minced sage1 #c large tablespoonsful4 ,,excellent ,,sausages4 ,chop1 first separately1 and then together1 one pound and a quarter of veal1 perfectly free from fat1 skin1 and sinew1 with an equal weight of lean pork1 and of the inside fat of the pig4 ,mix well1 and strew over the meat an ounce and a quarter of salt1 half an ounce of pepper1 one nutmeg grated1 and a large teaspoonful of pounded mace4 ,turn1 and chop the sausages until they are equally seasoned throughout1 and tolerably fine2 press them into a clean pan1 and keep them in a very cool place4 ,form them1 when wanted for table1 into cakes something less than an inch thick2 and flour and fry them then for about ten minutes in a little butter1 or roast them in a ,dutch or ,american oven4 ,lean of veal and pork1 of each #a lb4 #d oz42 fat of pork1 #a lb4 #d oz41 salt1 #a-a_/d oz42 pepper1 #a_/b oz42 nutmeg1 #a2 mace1 #a large teaspoonful1 fried in cakes1 #aj minutes4 ,,pounded ,,sausage-,,meat4 7,very good47 ,take from the best end of a neck of veal1 or from the fillet or loin1 a couple or more pounds of flesh without any intermixture of fat or skin2 chop it small1 and pound it thoroughly in a large mortar1 with half its weight of the inside1 or leaf-fat1 of a pig2 proportion salt and spice to it by the preceding receipt1 form it into cakes1 and fry it as above4 ,,boiled ,,sausages4 7,,entr,e47 ,in ,lincolnshire1 sausages are frequently boiled in the skins1 and served upon a toast1 as a corner dish4 ,they should be put into boiling water1 and simmered from seven to ten minutes1 according to their size4 ,,sausages ,,and ,,chestnuts4 7,,entr,e47 ,an excellent dish4 7,french47 ,roast1 and take the husk and skin from forty fine ,spanish chestnuts2 fry gently1 in a morsel of butter1 six small flat oval cakes of fine sausage-meat1 and when they are well browned1 lift them out and pour into a saucepan1 which should be bright in the inside1 the greater part of the fat in which they have been fried2 mix with it a large teaspoonful of flour1 and stir these over the fire till they are well and equally browned2 then pour in by degrees nearly half a pint of strong beef or veal broth1 or gravy1 and two glasses of good white wine2 add a small bunch of savoury herbs1 and as much salt and pepper1 or cayenne1 as will season the whole properly2 give it a boil1 lay in the sausages round the pan1 and the chestnuts in the centre2 stew them very softly for nearly an hour2 take out the herbs1 dish the sausages neatly1 and heap the chestnuts in the centre1 strain the sauce over them and serve them very hot4 ,there should be no sage mixed with the pork to dress thus4 ,chestnuts roasted1 #dj2 sausages1 #f2 gravy1 nearly #a_/b pint2 sherry or ,madeira1 #b wineglassesful3 stewed together from #ej to #fj minutes4 ,,truffled ,,sausages4 7,saucisses aux ,truffes47 ,with two pounds of the lean of young tender pork1 mix one pound of fat1 a quarter of a pound of truffles1 minced very small1 an ounce and a half of salt1 a seasoning of cayenne1 or quite half an ounce of white pepper1 a nutmeg1 a teaspoonful of freshly pounded mace1 and a dessertspoonful or more of savoury herbs dried and reduced to powder4 ,test a morsel of the mixture2 heighten any of the seasonings to the taste2 and put the meat into delicately clean skins3 if it be for immediate use1 and the addition is liked1 moisten it1 before it is dressed1 with one or two glassesful of ,madeira4 ,the substitution of a clove of garlic for the truffles1 will convert these into ,saucisses a l' ,ail1 or garlic sausages4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,chapter ,,xiv4 ,poultry4 ,illustration ,,to ,,choose ,,poultry4 ,,young1 plump1 well-fed1 but not over-fatted poultry is the best4 ,the skin of fowls and turkeys should be clear1 white1 and finely grained1 the breasts broad and full-fleshed1 the legs smooth1 the toes pliable and easily broken when bent back2 the birds should also be heavy in proportion to their size4 ,this applies equally to geese and ducks1 of which the breasts likewise should be very plump1 and the feet yellow and flexible3 when these are red and hard1 the bills of the same colour1 and the skin full of hairs1 and extremely coarse1 the birds are old4 ,white-legged fowls and chickens should be chosen for boiling1 because their appearance is the most delicate when dressed2 but the dark-legged ones often prove more juicy and of better flavour when roasted1 and their colour then is immaterial4 ,every precaution should be taken to prevent poultry from becoming ever so slightly tainted before it is cooked1 but unless the weather be exceedingly sultry1 it should not be quite freshly killed2 pigeons only are the better for being so1 and are thought to lose their flavour by hanging even a day or two4 ,turkeys1 as we have stated in our receipts for them1 are very tough and poor eating if not sufficiently long kept4 ,a goose1 also1 in winter1 should hang some days before it is dressed1 and fowls1 likewise1 will be improved by it4 ,all kinds of poultry should be thoroughly cooked1 though without being overdone1 for nothing in general can more effectually destroy the appetite than the taste and appearance of their flesh when brought to table half roasted or boiled4 ,,to ,,bone ,a ,,fowl ,,or ,,turkey ,,without ,,opening ,,it4 ,after the fowl has been drawn and singed1 wipe it inside and out with a clean cloth1 but do not wash it4 ,take off the head1 cut through the skin all round the first joint of the legs1 and pull them from the fowl1 to draw out the large tendons4 ,raise the flesh first from the lower part of the back-bone1 and a little also from the end of the breast-bone1 if necessary2 work the knife gradually to the socket of the thigh2 with the point of the knife detach the joint from it1 take the end of the bone firmly in the fingers1 and cut the flesh clean from it down to the next joint1 round which pass the point of the knife carefully1 and when the skin is loosened from it in every part1 cut round the next bone1 keeping the edge of the knife close to it1 until the whole of the leg is done4 ,remove the bones of the other leg in the same manner2 then detach the flesh from the back and breast-bone sufficiently to enable you to reach the upper joints of the wings2 proceed with these as with the legs1 but be especially careful not to pierce the skin of the second joint2 it is usual to leave the pinions unboned1 in order to give more easily its natural form to the fowl when it is dressed4 ,the merrythought and neck-bones may now easily be cut away1 the back and side-bones taken out without being divided1 and the breast-bone separated carefully from the flesh 7which1 as the work progresses1 must be turned back from the bones upon the fowl1 until it is completely inside out74 ,after the one remaining bone is removed1 draw the wings and legs back to their proper form1 and turn the fowl right side outwards4 ,a turkey is boned exactly in the same manner1 but as it requires a very large proportion of forcemeat to fill it entirely1 the legs and wings are sometimes drawn into the body1 to diminish the expense of this4 ,if very securely trussed1 and sewn1 the bird may be either boiled1 or stewed in rich gravy1 as well as roasted1 after being boned and forced2 but it must be most gently cooled1 or it may burst4 ,,another ,,mode ,,of ,,boning ,a ,,fowl ,,or ,,turkey4 ,cut through the skin down the centre of the back1 and raise the flesh carefully on either side with the point of a sharp knife1 until the sockets of the wings and thighs are reached4 ,till a little practice has been gained1 it will perhaps be better to bone these joints before proceeding further2 but after they are once detached from it1 the whole of the body may easily be separated from the flesh and taken out entire3 only the neck-bones and merrythought will then remain to be removed4 ,the bird thus prepared may either be restored to its original form1 by filling the legs and wings with forcemeat1 and the body with the livers of two or three fowls mixed with alternate layers of parboiled tongue freed from the rind1 fine sausage meat1 or veal forcemeat1 or thin slices of the nicest bacon1 or aught else of good flavour1 which will give a marbled appearance to the fowl when it is carved2 and then be sewn up and trussed as usual2 or the legs and wings may be drawn inside the body1 and the bird being first flattened on a table may be covered with sausage meat1 and the various other ingredients we have named1 so placed that it shall be of equal thickness in every part2 then tightly rolled1 bound firmly together with a fillet of broad tape1 wrapped in a thin pudding-cloth1 closely tied at both ends1 and dressed as follows3--,put it into a braising-pan1 stewpan1 or thick iron saucepan1 bright in the inside1 and fitted as nearly as may be to its size2 add all the chicken bones1 a bunch of sweet herbs1 two carrots1 two bay-leaves1 a large blade of mace1 twenty-four white peppercorns1 and any trimmings or bones of undressed veal which may be at hand2 cover the whole with good veal-broth1 add salt1 if needed1 and stew it very softly1 from an hour and a quarter to an hour and a half2 let it cool in the liquor in which it was stewed2 and after it is lifted out1 boil down the gravy to a jelly and strain it2 let it become cold1 clear off the fat1 and serve it cut into large dice or roughed1 and laid round the fowl1 which is to be served cold4 ,if restored to its form1 instead of being rolled1 it must be stewed gently for an hour1 and may then be sent to table hot1 covered with mushroom1 or any other good sauce that may be preferred2 or it may be left until the following day1 and served garnished with the jelly1 which should be firm1 and very clear and well-flavoured2 the liquor in which a calf's foot has been boiled down1 added to the broth1 will give it the necessary degree of consistence4 ,french cooks add three or four onions to these preparations of poultry 7the last of which is called a galantine72 but these our own taste would lead us to reject4 ,rolled1 #a-a_/d to #a-a_/b hour1 galantine1 #a hour4 ,obs4--,a couple of fowls1 boned and rolled1 make an excellent pie4 ,,to ,,bone ,,fowls ,,for ,,fricassees1 ,,curries1 ,,and ,,pies4 ,first carve them entirely into joints1 then remove the bones1 beginning with the legs and wings1 at the head of the largest bone2 hold this with the fingers1 and work the knife as directed in the receipt above4 ,the remainder of the birds is too easily done to require any instructions4 ,,to ,,roast ,a ,,turkey4 ,illustration3 ,turkey for roasting4 ,in very cold weather a turkey in its feathers will hang 7in an airy larder7 quite a fortnight with advantage2 and1 however fine a quality of bird it may be1 unless sufficiently long kept1 it will prove not worth the dressing1 though it should always be perfectly sweet when prepared for table4 ,pluck1 draw1 and singe it with exceeding care2 wash1 and then dry it thoroughly with clean cloths1 or merely wipe the outside well1 without wetting it1 and pour water plentifully through the inside4 ,fill the breast with forcemeat 7,no4 #a1 ,chapter ,,viii471 or with the finest sausage meat1 highly seasoned with minced herbs1 lemon-rind1 mace1 and cayenne4 ,truss the bird firmly1 lay it to a clear sound fire1 baste it constantly and bountifully with butter1 and serve it when done with good brown gravy1 and well-made bread sauce4 ,an entire chain of delicate fried sausages is still often placed in the dish1 round a turkey1 as a garnish4 ,it is usual to fold and fasten a sheet of buttered writing paper over the breast to prevent its being too much coloured3 this should be removed twenty minutes before the bird is done4 ,the forcemeat of chestnuts 7,no4 #ae1 ,chapter ,,viii47 may be very advantageously substituted for the commoner kinds in stuffing it1 and the body may then be filled with chestnuts1 previously stewed until tender in rich gravy1 or simmered over a slow fire in plenty of rasped bacon1 with a high seasoning of mace1 nutmeg1 and cayenne1 until they are so2 or1 instead of this1 well-made chestnut sauce1 or a dish of stewed chestnuts1 may be sent to table with the turkey4 ,obs4 #a4--;,baron ,liebig's improved method of roasting will be found at p4 #aga1 and can be followed always instead of the directions given here4 #a-a_/b to #b-a_/b hours4 ,obs4 #b4--;,a turkey should be laid at first far from the fire1 and drawn nearer when half done1 though never sufficiently so to scorch it2 it should be well roasted1 for even the most inveterate advocates of underdressed meat will seldom tolerate the taste or sight of partially-raw poultry ,,to ,,boil ,a ,,turkey4 ,illustration3 ,turkey for boiling4 ,a delicate but plump hen-turkey of moderate size should be selected for boiling4 ,free the skin most carefully from all the stumps1 and draw the bird1 using the greatest precaution not to break the gall bladder2 singe it with writing paper1 take off the head and neck1 cut through the skin round the first joint of the legs1 and draw them off3 this is best accomplished by fastening the feet to a strong hook1 and then pulling the bird away from it4 ,wash it exceedingly clean1 and then wipe it dry1 fill the breast with the forcemeat ,no4 #a or #b of ,chapter ,,viii41 or with the oyster1 chestnut1 or ,french forcemeat1 of which the receipts are given in the same chapter4 ,in trussing it draw the legs into the body1 break the breast-bone1 and give the turkey as round and plump an appearance as can be4 ,put it into plenty of warm water1 or into as much boiling water as will rise about an inch over it1 and when it has quite boiled for ten minutes1 cool it down by the addition of cold water1 and then take out a portion of it1 leaving only as much as will keep the bird thoroughly covered until it is ready for table4#hg ,clear off the scum with the greatest care as it is thrown to the surface1 and boil the bird very gently from an hour and a half to two hours and a quarter4 ,a very large turkey would require a longer time1 but it is unsuited to this mode of cooking4 ,when the oyster-forcemeat is used1 a large tureen of rich oyster sauce should accompany the dish2 but celery sauce1 or good white sauce1 may otherwise be sent to table with it2 and a boiled tongue or a small ham is usually served in addition4 ,for a plain family dinner1 a delicate cheek of bacon is sometimes substituted for either of these1 and parsley and butter for a more expensive sauce4 ,fast boiling will cause the skin of the bird to break1 and must therefore be especially avoided3 it should hang for some days before it is dressed1 for if quite freshly killed it will not be tender1 but it must be perfectly sweet to be fit for table4 ,truss the turkey by the directions of introductory chapter on trussing4 ,footnote #hg3 ,as we have elsewhere stated1 all meat and fish are injured by being cooked in a much larger quantity of water than is absolutely required for them4 ,moderate-sized turkey1 #a-a_/b to #b hours2 large turkey1 longer2 very small one1 less time4 ,,turkey ,,boned ,,and ,,forced4 7,an excellent dish47 ,illustration3 ,cradle ,spit4 ,take a small1 well-kept1 but quite sweet hen-turkey1 of from seven to eight pounds weight1 and remove1 by the receipt for a fowl 7page #bfe71 all the bones except those of the pinions1 without opening the bird2 draw it into shape1 and fill it entirely with exceedingly fine sausage meat1 beginning with the legs and wings2 plump the breast well in preparing it1 and when its original form is quite restored1 tie it securely at both ends1 and at the extremities of the legs2 pass a slight iron skewer through these and the body1 and another through the wings and body2 then lay a twine over the back of the turkey1 and pass it under the ends of the first skewer1 cross it in the centre of the back1 and pass it under the ends of the second skewer2 then carry it over the pinions to keep them firmly in their place1 and fasten it at the neck4 ,when a cradle spit1 of which the engraving below shows the form1 and which opens with a joint to receive the roast1 is not at hand1 a bottle jack will be found more convenient than any other for holding the turkey2 and after the hook of this is passed through the neck1 it must be further supported by a string running across the back and under the points of the skewer which confines the pinions to the hook2 for1 otherwise1 its weight would most probably cause it to fall4 ,flour it well1 place it far from the fire until it is heated through1 and baste it plentifully and incessantly with butter4 ,an hour and three quarters will roast it well4 ,break and boil down the bones for gravy in a pint and a half of water1 or good veal broth1 with a little salt1 a few slices of celery1 a dozen corns of pepper1 and a branch or two of parsley4 ,brown gently in a morsel of fresh butter1 a couple of ounces of lean ham1 add to them a slight dredging of flour1 and a little cayenne1 and pour to them the broth from the bones1 after it has boiled for an hour1 and been strained and skimmed2 shake the stewpan well round1 and stew the gravy until it is wanted for table2 clear it entirely from fat1 strain1 and serve it very hot4 ,an eschalot or half an onion may be browned with the ham when either is liked1 but their flavour is not1 we think1 appropriate to poultry4 ,the turkey may be partially filled with the forcemeat ,no4 #a or #c of ,chapter ,,viii41 and the sausage-meat may then be placed on either side of it4 ,hen turkey between #g and #h lbs4 weight1 boned1 filled with sausage-meat1 #c to #d lbs42 or with forcemeat ,no4 #a1 or with ,no4 #c1 ,chapter ,,vi41 #a lb4 7that is to say1 #a lb4 of bread-crumbs1 and the other ingredients in proportion47 ,sausage-meat1 #b to #c lbs4 roasted #a-c_/d hour4 ,obs4--,when a common spit is used for the turkey1 it must be fastened to1 and not put upon it4 ,bread sauce can be served with the bird1 or not1 at pleasure4 ,it will be found an improvement to moisten the sausage-meat with two or three spoonsful of water3 it should be finely minced1 well spiced1 and mixed with herbs1 when the common forcemeat is not used in addition4 ,in preparing it a pound and a quarter of fat should be mixed with each pound of the lean4 ,to give the turkey a very good appearance1 the breast may be larded by the directions of page #aha4 ,,turkey ,,la ,,flamande1 ,,or1 ,,dinde ,,poudr,e4 ,prepare as for boiling a fine well-kept hen turkey2 wipe the inside thoroughly with a dry cloth1 but do not wash it2 throw in a little salt to draw out the blood1 let it remain a couple of hours or more1 then drain and wipe it again2 next1 rub the outside in every part with about four ounces of fine dry salt1 mixed with a large tablespoonful of pounded sugar2 rub the turkey well with these1 and turn it every day for four days2 then fill it entirely with equal parts of choice sausage-meat1 and of the crumb of bread soaked in boiling milk or cream1 and wrung dry in a cloth2 season these with the grated rind of a large lemon and nutmeg1 mace1 cayenne1 and fine herbs1 in the same proportion as for veal forcemeat 7,no4 #a1 ,chapter ,,viii74 ,sew the turkey up very securely1 and when trussed1 roll it in a cloth1 tie it closely at both ends1 put it into boiling water1 and boil it very gently between three and four hours4 ,when taken up1 sprinkle it thickly with fine crumbs of bread1 mixed with plenty of parsley1 shred extremely small4 ,serve it cold1 with a sauce made of the strained juice and grated rind of two lemons1 a teaspoonful of made mustard1 and one of pounded sugar1 with as much oil as will prevent its being more than pleasantly acid1 and a little salt1 if needed2 work these together until perfectly mixed1 and send them to table in a tureen4 ,this receipt was given to us abroad1 by a ,flemish lady1 who had had the dish often served with great success in ,paris4 ,we have inserted it on her authority1 not on our own experience2 but we think it may be quite depended on4 ,,to ,,roast ,a ,,turkey ,,poult4 ,the turkey-poult is in season whenever it is of sufficient size to serve4 ,in the earlier spring months it is very high in price1 but in summer1 and as the autumn advances1 may be had at a more reasonable cost4 ,the great demand for turkeys in ,england towards ,christmas1 and the care which they require in being reared1 causes them to be brought much less abundantly into the markets when young1 than they are in foreign countries2 in many of which they are very plentiful and very cheap4 ,a turkey-poult or half grown turkey1 makes a delicate roast1 which some persons much prefer to the full-grown bird4 ,it is served with the head on1 but is generally in other respects trussed like a capon or a large fowl1 except for fashionable tables1 for which it is sometimes arranged with the legs twisted back at the first joint1 and the feet brought close to the thighs in the same manner as those of a woodcock4 ,it should be well basted with good butter1 and will require from an hour to an hour and a quarter's roasting4 ,if for the second course1 it may be dished on water-cresses3 pour a little gravy round it in the dish1 and send more to table with it in a tureen4 ,,to ,,roast ,a ,,goose4 ,in best season from ,september to ,march4 ,illustration3 ,goose for roasting4 ,after it has been plucked and singed with care1 put into the body of the goose two parboiled onions of moderate size finely chopped1 and mixed with half an ounce of minced sage-leaves1 a saltspoonful of salt1 and half as much black pepper1 or a proportionate quantity of cayenne2 to these add a small slice of fresh butter4 ,truss the goose1 and after it is on the spit1 tie it firmly at both ends that it may turn steadily1 and that the seasoning may not escape2 roast it at a brisk fire1 and keep it constantly basted4 ,serve it with brown gravy1 and apple or tomata sauce4 ,when the taste is in favour of a stronger seasoning than the above1 which occurs we apprehend but seldom1 use raw onions for it and increase the quantity3 but should one still milder be preferred1 mix a handful of fine bread-crumbs with the other ingredients1 or two or three minced apples4 ,the body of a goose is sometimes filled entirely with mashed potatoes1 which1 for this purpose1 ought to be boiled very dry1 and well blended with two or three ounces of butter1 or with some thick cream1 some salt1 and white pepper or cayenne3 to these minced sage and parboiled onions can also be added at pleasure4 ,a teaspoonful of made-mustard1 half as much of salt1 and a small portion of cayenne1 smoothly mixed with a glass of port wine1 are sometimes poured into the goose just before it is served1 through a cut made in the apron4 #a-a_/b to #a-c_/d hour4 ,obs4--,we extract1 for the benefit of our readers1 from a work in our possession1 the following passage1 of which we have had no opportunity of testing the correctness4 8,geese1 with sage and onions1 may be deprived of power to breathe forth any incense1 thus3 ,pare from a lemon all the yellow rind1 taking care not to bruise the fruit nor to cut so deeply as to let out the juice4 ,place this lemon in the centre of the seasoning within the bird4 ,when or before it is brought to table1 let the flap be gently opened1 remove the lemon with a tablespoon2 avoid breaking1 and let it instantly be thrown away1 as its white pithy skin will have absorbed all the gross particles which else would have escaped40 ,,to ,,roast ,a ,,green ,,goose4 ,season the inside with a little pepper and salt1 and roast the goose at a brisk fire from forty to fifty minutes4 ,serve it with good brown gravy only4 ,to this sorrel-sauce is sometimes added at not very modern ,english tables1 ,green geese are never stuffed4 ,,to ,,roast ,a ,,fowl4 ,fowls are always in season when they can be procured sufficiently young to be tender4 ,about ,february they become dear and scarce2 and small spring chickens are generally very expensive4 ,as summer advances they decline in price4 ,illustration3 ,fowl for roasting4 ,strip off the feathers1 and carefully pick every stump from the skin1 as nothing can be more uninviting than the appearance of any kind of poultry where this has been neglected1 nor more indicative of slovenliness on the part of the cook4 ,take off the head and neck close to the body1 but leave sufficient of the skin to tie over the part that is cut4 ,in drawing the bird1 do not open it more than is needful1 and use great precaution to avoid breaking the gall-bladder4 ,hold the legs in boiling water for two or three minutes that the skin may be peeled from them easily2 cut the claws1 and then1 with a bit of lighted writing-paper1 singe off the hairs without blackening the fowl4 ,wash1 and wipe it afterwards very dry1 and let the liver and gizzard be made delicately clean1 and fastened into the pinions4 ,truss and spit it firmly2 flour it well when first laid to the fire1 baste it frequently with butter1 and when it is done draw out the skewers1 dish it1 pour a little good gravy over1 and send it to table with bread1 mushroom1 egg1 chestnut1 or olive sauce4 ,a common mode of serving roast fowls in ,france is aux cressons1 that is1 laid upon young water-cresses1#hh which have previously been freed from the outer leaves1 thoroughly washed1 shaken dry in a clean cloth1 and sprinkled with a little fine salt1 and sometimes with a small quantity of vinegar3 these should cover the dish1 and after the fowls are placed on them1 gravy should be poured over as usual4 ,footnote #hh3 ,this is done with many other roasts which are served in the second course but the vinegar is seldom added in this country4 ,the body of a fowl may be filled with very small mushrooms prepared as for partridges 7see partridges with mushrooms71 then sewn up1 roasted1 and served with mushroom-sauce3 this is an excellent mode of dressing it4 ,a little rasped bacon1 or a bit or two of the lean of beef or veal minced1 or cut into dice1 may be put inside the bird when either is considered an improvement2 but its own liver1 or that of another fowl1 will be found to impart a much finer flavour than any of these last2 and so likewise will a teaspoonful of really good mushroom-powder smoothly mixed with a slice of good butter1 and a seasoning of fine salt and cayenne4#hi ,footnote #hi3 ,we cannot much recommend these mere superfluities of the table4 ,full-sized fowl1 #a hour3 young chicken1 #be to #ce minutes4 ,obs4--,as we have already observed in our general remarks on roasting1 the time must be regulated by various circumstances which we named1 and which the cook should always take into consideration4 ,a buttered paper should be fastened over the breast1 and removed about fifteen minutes before the fowl is served3 this will prevent its taking too much colour4 ,,roast ,,fowl4 7,a ,french ,receipt47 ,fill the breast of a fine fowl with good forcemeat1 roast it as usual1 and when it is very nearly ready to serve take it from the fire1 pour lukewarm butter over it in every part1 and strew it thickly with very fine bread-crumbs2 sprinkle these again with butter1 and dip the fowl into more crumbs4 ,put it down to the fire1 and when it is of a clear1 light brown all over1 take it carefully from the spit1 dish1 and serve it with lemon-sauce1 and with gravy thickened and mixed with plenty of minced parsley1 or with brown gravy and any other sauce usually served with fowls4 ,savoury herbs shred small1 spice1 and lemon-grate1 may be mixed with the crumbs at pleasure4 ,do not pour gravy over the fowl when it is thus prepared4 ,,to ,,roast ,a ,,guinea ,,fowl4 ,let the bird hang for as many days as the weather will allow2 then stuff1 truss1 roast1 and serve it like a turkey1 or leave the head on and lard the breast4 ,send gravy and bread-sauce to table with it in either case3 it will be found excellent eating4 #c_/d to #a hour4 ,,fowl ,,la ,,carlsfors4 7,,entr,e47 ,bone a fowl without opening the back1 and restore it to its original form by filling the vacant spaces in the legs and wings with forcemeat2 put a roll of it also into the body1 and a large sausage freed from the skin on either side2 tie it very securely at both ends1 truss it with fine skewers1 and roast it for a full hour1 keeping it basted plentifully with butter4 ,when appearance is not regarded1 the pinions may be taken off1 and the legs and wings drawn inside the fowl1 which will then require a much smaller proportion of forcemeat3--that directed for veal will answer quite well in a general way1 but for a dinner of ceremony1 ,no4 #ag or #ah of the same ,chapter1 should be used in preference4 ,the fowl must be tied securely to the spit1 not put upon it4 ,boned chickens are excellent when entirely filled with well-made mushroom forcemeat1 or very delicate and nicely seasoned sausage-meat1 and either roasted or stewed4 ,brown gravy1 or mushroom sauce should then be sent to table with them4 ,,boiled ,,fowls4 ,illustration3 ,fowl for boiling4 ,white-legged poultry should always be selected for boiling as it is of better colour when dressed than any other4 ,truss the fowls firmly and neatly1 with the legs drawn into the bodies1 and the wings twisted over the backs2 let them be well covered with water1 which should be hot1 but not boiling when they are put in4 ,a full-sized fowl will require about three quarters of an hour from the time of its beginning to simmer2 but young chickens not more than from twenty to twenty-five minutes3 they should be very gently boiled1 and the scum should be removed with great care as it gathers on the surface of the water4 ,either of the following sauces may be sent to table with them3 parsley and butter1 bchamel1 ,english white sauce1 oyster1 celery1 or white-mushroom sauce4 ,the fowls are often dished with small tufts of delicately boiled cauliflower placed round them2 or with young vegetable marrow scarcely larger than an egg1 merely pared and halved after it is dressed3 white sauce must be served with both of these4 ,the livers and gizzards are not1 at the present day1 ever served in the wings of boiled fowls4 ,the livers may be simmered for four or five minutes1 then pressed to a smooth paste with a wooden spoon1 and mixed very gradually with the sauce1 which should not boil after they are added4 ,full-sized fowl1 #c_/d hour3 young chickens1 #bj to #be minutes4 ,obs4--,rather less than half a gallon of cold added to an equal quantity of boiling water1 will bring it to the proper degree of heat for putting in the fowls1 or the same directions may be observed for them as those given for a boiled turkey4 ,for richer modes of boiling poultry1 see ,blanc and ,pole1 ,chapter ,,ix4 ,,to ,,broil ,a ,,chicken ,,or ,,fowl4 ,either of these1 when merely split and broiled1 is very dry and unsavoury eating2 but will be greatly improved if first boiled gently from five to ten minutes and left to become cold1 then divided1 dipped into egg and well seasoned bread-crumbs1 plentifully sprinkled with clarified butter1 dipped again into the crumbs1 and broiled over a clear and gentle fire from half to three quarters of an hour4 ,it should be served very hot1 with mushroom-sauce or with a little good plain gravy1 which may be thickened and flavoured with a teaspoonful of mushroom-powder mixed with half as much flour and a little butter2 or with some ,espagnole4 ,it should be opened at the back1 and evenly divided quite through2 the legs should be trussed like those of a boiled fowl2 the breast-bone1 or hat of the back may be removed at pleasure1 and both sides of the bird should be made as flat as they can be that the fire may penetrate every part equally3 the inside should be first laid towards it4 ,the neck1 feet and gizzard may be boiled down with a small quantity of onion and carrot1 previously browned in a morsel of butter to make the gravy2 and the liver1 after having been simmered with them for five or six minutes1 may be used to thicken it after it is strained4 ,a teaspoonful of lemon-juice1 some cayenne1 and minced parsley should be added to it1 and a little arrow-root1 or flour and butter4 #a_/b to #c_/d hour4 ,,fricasseed ,,fowls ,,or ,,chickens4 7,,entr,e47 ,to make a fricassee of good appearance without great expense1 prepare1 with exceeding nicety1 a couple of plump chickens1 strip off the skin1 and carve them very neatly4 ,reserve the wings1 breasts1 merrythoughts1 and thighs2 and stew down the inferior joints with a couple of blades of mace1 a small bunch of savoury herbs1 a few white peppercorns1 a pint and a half of water1 and a small half-teaspoonful of salt4 ,when something more than a third part reduced1 strain the gravy1 let it cool1 and skim off every particle of fat4 ,arrange the joints which are to be fricasseed in one layer if it can be done conveniently1 and pour to them as much of the gravy as will nearly cover them2 add the very thin rind of half a fine fresh lemon1 and simmer the fowls gently from half to three quarters of an hour2 throw in sufficient salt1 pounded mace1 and cayenne1 to give the sauce a good flavour1 thicken it with a large teaspoonful of arrow-root1 and stir to it the third of a pint of rich boiling cream2 then lift the stewpan from the fire1 and shake it briskly round while the beaten yolks of three fresh eggs1 mixed with a spoonful or two of cream1 are added2 continue to shake the pan gently above the fire till the sauce is just set1 but it must not be allowed to boil1 or it will curdle in an instant4 #a_/b to #c_/d hour4 ,,english ,,chicken ,,cutlets4 7,,entr,e74 ,skin and cut into joints one or two young chickens1 and remove the bones with care from the breasts1 merrythoughts1 and thighs1 which are to be separated from the legs4 ,mix well together a teaspoonful of salt1 nearly a fourth as much of mace1 a little grated nutmeg1 and some cayenne2 flatten and form into good shape1 the boned joints of chicken1 and the flesh of the wings2 rub a little of the seasoning over them in every part1 dip them into beaten egg1 and then into very fine bread-crumbs1 and fry them gently in fresh butter until they are of a delicate brown4 ,some of the bones and trimmings may be boiled down in half a pint of water1 with a roll of lemon-peel1 a little salt1 and eight or ten white peppercorns1 to make the gravy which1 after being strained and cleared from fat1 may be poured hot to some thickening made in the pan with a slice of fresh butter and a dessertspoonful of flour3 a teaspoonful of mushroom-powder would improve it greatly1 and a small quantity of lemon-juice should be added before it is poured out1 with salt and cayenne if required4 ,pile the cutlets high in the centre of the dish1 and serve the sauce under them1 or in a tureen4 ,,cutlets ,,of ,,fowls1 ,,partridges1 ,,or ,,pigeons4 7,,entr,e47 7,french ,receipt47 ,take closely off the flesh of the breast and wing together1 on either side of the bone1 and when the large fillets1 as they are called1 are thus raised from three birds1 which will give but six cutlets1 take the strips of flesh that lie under the wings1 and that of the merrythoughts1 and flatten two or three of these together1 that there may be nine cutlets at least1 of equal size4 ,when all are ready1 fry to a pale brown as many diamond-shaped sippets of bread as there are fillets of fowl1 and let them be quite as large2 place these before the fire to dry1 and wipe out the pan4 ,dip the cutlets into some yolks of eggs1 mixed with a little clarified butter1 and strew them in every part with the finest bread-crumbs1 moderately seasoned with salt1 cayenne1 and pounded mace4 ,dissolve as much good butter as will be required to dress them1 and fry them in it of a light amber-colour3 arrange them upon the sippets of bread1 pile them high in the dish1 and pour a rich brown gravy or ,espagnole round1 but not over them4 ,,fried ,,chicken ,,la ,,malabar4 7,,entr,e47 ,this is an ,indian dish4 ,cut up the chicken1 wipe it dry1 and rub it well with currie-powder mixed with a little salt2 fry it in a bit of butter1 taking care that it is of a nice light brown4 ,in the mean time cut two or three onions into thin slices1 draw them out into rings1 and cut the rings into little bits about half an inch long2 fry them for a long time gently in a little clarified butter1 until they have gradually dried up and are of a delicate yellow-brown4 ,be careful that they are not burnt1 as the burnt taste of a single bit would spoil the flavour of the whole4 ,when they are as dry as chips1 without the least grease or moisture upon them1 mix a little salt with them1 strew them over the fried chicken1 and serve up with lemon on a plate4 ,we have extracted this receipt from a clever little work called the 8,hand-,book of ,cookery40 ,,hashed ,,fowl4 7,,entr,e47 ,after having taken off in joints1 as much of a cold fowl or fowls as will suffice for a dish1 bruise the bodies with a paste roller1 pour to them a pint of water1 and boil them for an hour and a half to two hours1 with the addition of a little pepper and salt only1 or with a small quantity of onion1 carrot1 and savoury herbs4 ,strain1 and skim the fat from the gravy1 put it into a clean saucepan1 and1 should it require thickening1 stir to it1 when it boils1 half a teaspoonful of flour smoothly mixed with a small bit of butter2 add a little mushroom catsup1 or other store-sauce1 with a slight seasoning of mace or nutmeg4 ,lay in the fowl1 and keep it near the fire until it is heated quite through1 and is at the point of boiling3 serve it with fried sippets round the dish4 ,for a hash of higher relish1 add to the bones when they are first stewed down a large onion minced and browned in butter1 and before the fowl is dished1 add some cayenne and the juice of half a lemon4 ,,french ,,and ,,other ,,receipts ,,for ,,minced ,,fowl4 7,,entr,e47 ,raise from the bones all the more delicate parts of the flesh of either cold roast1 or of cold boiled fowls1 clear it from the skin1 and keep it covered from the air until it is wanted for use4 ,boil the bones well bruised1 and the skin1 with three quarters of a pint of water until reduced quite half2 then strain the gravy and let it cool2 next1 having first skimmed off the fat1 put it into a clean saucepan1 with a quarter of a pint of cream1 an ounce and a half of butter well mixed with a dessertspoonful of flour1 and a little pounded mace1 and grated lemon-rind2 keep these stirred until they boil1 then put in the fowl1 finely minced1 with three or four hard-boiled eggs chopped small1 and sufficient salt1 and white pepper or cayenne1 to season it properly4 ,shake the mince over the fire until it is just ready to boil1 stir to it quickly a squeeze of lemon-juice1 dish it with pale sippets of fried bread1 and serve it immediately4 ,when cream cannot easily be obtained1 use milk1 with a double quantity of butter and flour4 ,to make an ,english mince1 omit the hard eggs1 heat the fowl in the preceding sauce or in a common bchamel1 or white sauce1 dish it with small delicately poached eggs 7those of the guinea-fowl or bantam for example71 laid over it in a circle and send it quickly to table4 ,another excellent variety of the dish is also made by covering the fowl thickly with very fine bread-crumbs1 moistening them with clarified butter1 and giving them colour with a salamander1 or in a quick oven4#ij ,footnote #ij3 ,for minced fowl and oysters1 follow the receipt for veal1 page #bca4 ,,fritot ,,of ,,cold ,,fowls4 ,cut into joints and take the skin from some cold fowls lay them into a deep dish1 strew over them a little fine salt and cayenne1 add the juice of a lemon1 and let them remain for an hour1 moving them occasionally that they may all absorb a portion of the acid2 then dip them one by one into some ,french batter 7see ,chapter ,v471 and fry them a pale brown over a gentle fire4 ,serve them garnished with very green crisped parsley4 ,a few drops of eschalot vinegar may be mixed with the lemon-juice which is poured to the fowls1 or slices of raw onion or eschalot1 and small branches of sweet herbs may be laid amongst them1 and cleared off before they are dipped into the batter4 ,gravy made of the trimmings1 thickened1 and well flavoured1 may be sent to table with them in a tureen2 and dressed bacon 7see page #bei71 in a dish apart4 ,,scallops ,,of ,,fowl ,,au ,b,,chamel4 7,,entr,e47 ,raise the flesh from a couple of fowls as directed for cutlets in the foregoing receipt1 and take it as entire as possible from either side of the breast2 strip off the skin1 lay the fillets flat1 and slice them into small thin scallops2 dip them one by one into clarified butter1 and arrange them evenly in a delicately clean and not large frying-pan2 sprinkle a seasoning of fine salt over1 and just before the dish is wanted for table1 fry them quickly without allowing them to brown2 drain them well from the butter1 pile them in the centre of a hot dish1 and sauce them with some boiling bchamel4 ,this dish may be quickly prepared by taking a ready-dressed fowl from the spit or stewpan1 and by raising the fillets1 and slicing the scallops into the boiling sauce before they have had time to cool4 ,fried1 #c to #d minutes4 ,,grillade ,,of ,,cold ,,fowls4 ,carve and soak the remains of roast fowls as for the fritot which precedes1 wipe them dry1 dip them into clarified butter1 and then into fine bread-crumbs1 and broil them gently over a very clear fire4 ,a little finely-minced lean of ham or grated lemon-peel1 with a seasoning of cayenne1 salt1 and mace1 mixed with the crumbs will vary this dish agreeably4 ,when fried instead of broiled1 the fowls may be dipped into yolk of egg instead of butter2 but this renders them too dry for broiling4 ,,fowls ,,la ,,mayonnaise4 ,carve with great nicety a couple of cold roast fowls2 place the inferior joints1 if they are served at all1 close together in the middle of a dish1 and arrange the others round and over them1 piling them high in the centre4 ,garnish them with the hearts of young lettuces cut in two1 and hard-boiled eggs1 halved lengthwise4 ,at the moment of serving1 pour over the fowls a well-made mayonnaise sauce 7see ,chapter ,,vi471 or1 if preferred1 an ,english salad-dressing1 compounded with thick cream1 instead of oil4 ,,to ,,roast ,,ducks4 ,ducks are in season all the year1 but are thought to be in their perfection about ,june or early in ,july4 ,ducklings 7or half-grown ducks7 are in the greatest request in spring1 when there is no game in the market1 and other poultry is somewhat scarce4 ,illustration3 ,ducks trussed4 ,in preparing these for the spit1 be careful to clear the skin entirely from the stumps of the feathers2 take off the heads and necks1 but leave the feet on1 and hold them for a few minutes in boiling water to loosen the skin1 which must be peeled off4 ,wash the inside of the birds by pouring water through them1 but merely wipe the outsides with a dry cloth4 ,put into the bodies a seasoning of parboiled onions mixed with minced sage1 salt1 pepper1 and a slice of butter when this mode of dressing them is liked2 but as the taste of a whole party is seldom in its favour1 one1 when a couple are roasted1 is often served without the stuffing4 ,cut off the pinions at the first joint from the bodies1 truss the feet behind the backs1 spit the birds firmly1 and roast them at a brisk fire1 but do not place them sufficiently near to be scorched2 baste them constantly1 and when the breasts are well plumped1 and the steam from them draws towards the fire1 dish1 and serve them quickly with a little good brown gravy poured round them1 and some also in a tureen2 or instead of this1 with some which has been made with the necks1 gizzards1 and livers well stewed down1 with a slight seasoning of browned onion1 some herbs1 and spice4 ,young ducks1 #a_/b hour3 full sized1 from #c_/d to #a hour4 ,obs4--,olive-sauce may be served with roast as well as with stewed ducks4 ,,stewed ,,duck4 7,,entr,e47 ,a couple of quite young ducks1 or a fine1 full-grown1 but still tender one1 will be required for this dish4 ,cut either down neatly into joints1 and arrange them in a single layer if possible1 in a wide stewpan2 pour in about three quarters of a pint of strong cold beef stock or gravy2 let it be well cleared from scum when it begins to boil1 then throw in a little salt1 a rather full seasoning of cayenne1 and a few thin strips of lemon-rind4 ,simmer the ducks very softly for three quarters of an hour1 or somewhat longer should the joints be large2 then stir into the gravy a tablespoonful of the finest rice-flour1 mixed with a wineglassful or rather more of port wine1 and a dessertspoonful of lemon-juice3 in ten minutes after1 dish the stew and send it to table instantly4 ,the ducks may be served with a small portion only of their sauce1 and dished in a circle1 with green peas la ,franaise heaped high in the centre3 the lemon-rind and port wine should then be altogether omitted1 and a small bunch of green onions and parsley1 with two or three young carrots1 may be stewed down with the birds1 or three or four minced eschalots1 delicately fried in butter1 may be used to flavour the gravy4 ,the turnips au beurre1 prepared by the receipt of ,chapter ,,xvii41 may be substituted for the peas2 and a well made ,espagnole may take the place of beef stock1 when a dish of high savour is wished for4 ,a duck is often stewed without being divided into joints4 ,it should then be firmly trussed1 half roasted at a quick fire1 and laid into the stewpan as it is taken from the spit2 or well browned in some ,french thickening1 then half covered with boiling gravy1 and turned when partially done3 from an hour to an hour and a quarter will stew it well4 ,,to ,,roast ,,pigeons4 ,in season from ,march to ,michaelmas1 and whenever they can be had young4 ,illustration3 ,pigeons for roasting4 ,these1 as we have already said1 should be dressed while they are very fresh4 ,if extremely young they will be ready in twelve hours for the spit1 otherwise in twenty-four4 ,take off the heads and necks1 and cut off the toes at the first joint2 draw them carefully1 and pour plenty of water through them3 wipe them dry1 and put into each bird a small bit of butter lightly dipped into a little cayenne 7formerly it was rolled in minced parsley1 but this is no longer the fashionable mode of preparing them74 ,truss the wings over the backs1 and roast them at a brisk fire1 keeping them well and constantly basted with butter4 ,serve them with brown gravy1 and a tureen of parsley and butter4 ,for the second course1 dish them upon young water-cresses1 as directed for roast fowl aux cressons1 page #bgb4 ,about twenty minutes will roast them4 #ah to #bj minutes2 five minutes longer1 if large2 rather less1 if very young4 ,,boiled ,,pigeons4 ,truss them like boiled fowls1 drop them into plenty of boiling water1 throw in a little salt1 and in fifteen minutes lift them out1 pour parsley and butter over1 and send a tureen of it to table with them4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,chapter ,,xv4 ,game4 ,,to ,,choose ,,game4 ,illustration ,,buck venison1 which is in season only from ,june to ,michaelmas1 is considered finer than doe venison1 which comes into the market in ,october1 and remains in season through ,november and ,december3 neither should be cooked at any other part of the year4 ,the greater the depth of fat upon the haunch the better the quality of the meat will be1 provided it be clear and white1 and the lean of a dark hue4 ,if the cleft of the hoof1 which is always left on the joint1 be small and smooth1 the animal is young2 but it is old when the marks are the reverse of these4#ia ,although the haunch is the prime and favourite joint of venison1 the neck and shoulder are also excellent1 dressed in various ways1 and make much approved pies or pasties as they are usually called4 ,if kept to the proper point1 and well dressed1 this is the most tender of all meat2 but care is necessary to bring it into a fitting state for table without its becoming offensive4 ,a free current of air in a larder is always a great advantage1 as it assists materially in preserving the sweetness of every thing which is kept in it1 while a close damp atmosphere1 on the contrary1 is more destructive of animal food of all kinds even than positive heat4 ,the fumes of creosote are said to be an admirable preservative against putrescence1 but we have not ourselves yet had experience of the fact4 ,all moisture should be wiped daily1 or even more frequently1 from the venison1 with soft cloths1 when any appears upon the surface2 and every precaution must be taken to keep off the flies1 when the joint is not hung in a wire-safe4 ,black pepper thickly powdered on it will generally answer the purpose3 with common care1 indeed1 meat may always be protected from their attacks1 and to leave it exposed to them in warm weather is altogether inexcusable in the cook4 ,footnote #ia3 ,it must be observed that venison is not in perfection when young3 like mutton1 it requires to be of a certain age before it is brought to table4 ,the word cleft applies also to the thickest part of the haunch1 and it is the depth of the fat on this which decides the quality of the joint4 ,hares and rabbits are stiff when freshly killed1 and if young1 the ears tear easily1 and the claws are smooth and sharp4 ,a hare in cold weather will remain good from ten to fourteen days2 care only must be taken to prevent the inside from becoming musty1 which it will do if it has been emptied in the field4 ,pheasants1 partridges1 and other game may be chosen by nearly the same tests as poultry3 by opening the bill1 the staleness will be detected easily if they have been too long kept4 ,with few exceptions1 game depends almost entirely for the fine flavour and the tenderness of its flesh1 on the time which it is allowed to hang before it is cooked1 and it is never good when very fresh2 but it does not follow that it should be sent to table in a really offensive state1 for this is agreeable to few eaters and disgusting to many1 and nothing should at any time be served of which the appearance or the odour may destroy the appetite of any person present4 ,,to ,,roast ,a ,,haunch ,,of ,,venison4 ,illustration ,to give venison the flavour and the tenderness so much prized by epicures1 it must be well kept2 and by taking the necessary precautions1 it will hang a considerable time without detriment4 ,wipe it with soft dry cloths wherever the slightest moisture appears on the surface1 and dust it plentifully with freshly-ground pepper or powdered ginger1 to preserve it from the flies4 ,the application of the pyroligneous or acetic acid would effectually protect it from these1 as well as from the effects of the weather2 but the joint must then be1 not only well washed1 but soaked for some considerable time1 and this would be very detrimental4 ,to prepare the venison for the spit1 wash it slightly with tepid water or merely wipe it thoroughly with damp cloths1 and dry it afterwards with clean ones2 then lay over the fat side a large sheet of thickly-buttered paper1 and next a paste of flour and water about three quarters of an inch thick2 cover this again with two or three sheets of stout paper1 secure the whole well with twine1 and lay the haunch to a sound clear fire2 baste the paper immediately with butter or clarified dripping1 and roast the joint from three hours and a half to four and a half1 according to its weight and quality4 ,doe venison will require half an hour less time than buck venison4 ,twenty minutes before the joint is done remove the paste and paper1 baste the meat in every part with butter1 and dredge it very lightly with flour2 let it take a pale brown colour1 and send it to table as hot as possible with gravy in a tureen1 and good currant jelly4 ,it is not now customary to serve any other sauces with it2 but should the old-fashioned sharp or sweet sauce be ordered1 the receipt for it will be found at page #ajj4 #c-a_/b to #d-a_/b hours4 ,obs4--,the kind of gravy appropriate to venison is a matter on which individual taste must decide4 ,when preparations of high savour are preferred to the pure flavour of the game1 the ,espagnole 7or ,spanish sauce7 of ,chapter ,,iv4 can be sent to table with it2 or either of the rich ,english gravies which precede it4 ,when a simple unflavoured one is better liked1 some mutton cutlets freed entirely from fat1 then very slightly broiled over a quick fire1 and stewed gently down in a light extract of mutton prepared by ,liebeg's directions1 ,chapter ,i41 for about an hour1 will produce an excellent plain gravy3 it should be seasoned with salt and pepper 7or fine cayenne7 only4 ,when venison abounds1 it should be used for the gravy instead of mutton4 ,,to ,,stew ,a ,,shoulder ,,of ,,venison4 ,bone the joint1 by the directions given for a shoulder of veal or mutton 7see ,chapter ,,xi472 flatten it on a table1 season it well with cayenne1 salt1 and pounded mace1 mixed with a very small proportion of allspice2 lay over it thin slices of the fat of a loin of well-fed mutton1 roll and bind it tightly1 lay it into a vessel nearly of its size1 and pour to it as much good stock made with equal parts of beef and mutton as will nearly cover it2 stew it as slowly as possible from three hours to three and a half or longer1 should it be very large1 and turn it when it is half done4 ,dish and serve it with a good ,espagnole1 made with part of the gravy in which it has been stewed2 or thicken this slightly with rice-flour1 mixed with a glass or more of claret or of port wine1 and as much salt and cayenne as will season the gravy properly4 ,some cooks soak the slices of mutton-fat in wine before they are laid upon the joint2 but no process of the sort will ever give to any kind of meat the true flavour of the venison1 which to most eaters is far finer than that of the wine1 and should always be allowed to prevail over all the condiments with which it is dressed4 ,those1 however1 who care for it less than for a dish of high artificial savour can have eschalots1 ham1 and carrot1 lightly browned in good butter added to the stew when it first begins to boil4 #c-a_/b to #d hours4 ,,to ,,hash ,,venison4#ib ,footnote #ib3 ,minced collops of venison may be prepared exactly like those of beef2 and venison-cutlets like those of mutton3 the neck may be taken for both of these4 ,for a superior hash of venison1 add to three quarters of a pint of strong thickened brown gravy1 ,christopher ,north's sauce1 in the proportion directed for it in the receipt of page #bie4ic ,cut the venison in small thin slices of equal size1 arrange them in a clean saucepan1 pour the gravy on them1 let them stand for ten minutes or more1 then place them near the fire1 and bring the whole very slowly to the point of boiling only3 serve the hash immediately in a hot-water dish4 ,footnote #ic3 ,having been inadvertently omitted from its proper place1 this receipt is transferred to the end of the present ,chapter4 ,for a plain dinner1 when no gravy is at hand1 break down the bones of the venison small1 after the flesh has been cleared from them1 and boil them with those of three or four undressed mutton-cutlets1 a slice or two of carrot1 or a few savoury herbs1 and about a pint and a half of water or broth1 until the liquid is reduced quite one third4 ,strain it off1 let it cool1 skim off all the fat1 heat the gravy1 thicken it when it boils with a dessertspoonful or rather more of arrow-root1 or with the brown roux of page #ajg1 mix the same sauce with it1 and finish it exactly as the richer hash above4 ,it may be served on sippets of fried bread or not1 at choice4 ,,to ,,roast ,a ,,hare4 ,in season from ,september to the #ast of ,march4 ,illustration3 ,hare trussed4 ,after the hare has been skinned1 or cased1 as it is called1 wash it very thoroughly in cold water1 and afterwards in warm4 ,if in any degree overkept1 or musty in the inside1 which it will sometimes be when emptied before it is hung up and neglected afterwards1 use vinegar1 or the pyroligneous acid1 well diluted1 to render it sweet2 then again throw it into abundance of water1 that it may retain no taste of the acid4 ,pierce with the point of a knife any parts in which the blood appears to have settled1 and soak them in tepid water1 that it may be well drawn out4 ,wipe the hare dry1 fill it with the forcemeat ,no4 #a1 ,chapter ,,viii41 sew it up1 truss and spit it firmly1 baste it for ten minutes with lukewarm water mixed with a very little salt2 throw this away1 and put into the pan a quart or more of new milk2 keep it constantly laded over the hare until it is nearly dried up1 then add a large lump of butter1 flour the hare1 and continue the basting steadily until it is well browned2 for unless this be done1 and the roast be kept at a proper distance from the fire1 the outside will become so dry and hard as to be quite uneatable4 ,serve the hare when done1 with good brown gravy 7of which a little should be poured round it in the dish71 and with fine red currant jelly4 ,this is an approved ,english method of dressing it1 but we would recommend in preference1 that it should be basted plentifully with butter from the beginning 7the strict economist may substitute clarified beef-dripping1 or marrow1 and finish with a small quantity of butter only72 and that the salt and water should be altogether omitted4 ,first-rate cooks merely wipe the hare inside and out1 and rub it with its own blood before it is laid to the fire2 but there is generally a rankness about it1 especially after it has been many days killed1 which1 we should say1 renders the washing indispensable1 unless a coarse game-flavour be liked4 #a-a_/d to #a-c_/d hour4 ,,roast ,,hare4 7,superior ,receipt47 ,a hare may be rendered far more plump in appearance1 and infinitely easier to carve1 by taking out the bones of the back and thighs1 or of the former only3 in removing this a very sharp knife should be used1 and much care will be required to avoid cutting through the skin just over the spine1 as it adheres closely to the bone4 ,nearly double the usual quantity of forcemeat must be prepared3 with this restore the legs to their original shape1 and fill the body1 which should previously be lined with delicate slices of the nicest bacon1 of which the rind and edges have been trimmed away4 ,sew up the hare1 truss it as usual2 lard it or not1 as is most convenient1 keep it basted plentifully with butter while roasting1 and serve it with the customary sauce4 ,we have found two tablespoonsful of the finest currant jelly1 melted in half a pint of rich brown gravy1 an acceptable accompaniment to hare1 when the taste has been in favour of a sweet sauce4 ,to remove the back-bone1 clear from it first the flesh in the inside2 lay this back to the right and left from the centre of the bone to the tips2 then work the knife on the upper side quite to the spine1 and when the whole is detached except the skin which adheres to this1 separate the bone at the first joint from the neck-bone or ribs 7we know not how more correctly to describe it71 and pass the knife with caution under the skin down the middle of the back4 ,the directions for boning the thighs of a fowl will answer equally for those of a hare1 and we therefore refer the reader to them4 ,,stewed ,,hare4 ,wash and soak the hare thoroughly1 wipe it very dry1 cut it down into joints dividing the largest1 flour and brown it slightly in butter with some bits of lean ham1 pour to them by degrees a pint and a half of gravy1 and stew the hare very gently from an hour and a half to two hours3 when it is about one third done add the very thin rind of half a large lemon1 and ten minutes before it is served stir to it a large dessertspoonful of rice-flour1 smoothly mixed with two tablespoonsful of good mushroom catsup1 a quarter of a teaspoonful or more of mace1 and something less of cayenne4 ,this is an excellent plain receipt for stewing a hare2 but the dish may be enriched with forcemeat 7,no4 #a1 ,chapter ,,viii47 rolled into small balls1 and simmered for ten minutes in the stew1 or fried and added to it after it is dished2 a higher seasoning of spice1 a couple of glasses of port wine1 with a little additional thickening and a tablespoonful of lemon-juice1 will all serve to give it a heightened relish4 ,hare1 #a2 lean of ham or bacon1 #d to #f oz42 butter1 #b oz42 gravy1 #a-a_/b pint2 lemon-rind3 #a hour and #bj to #ej minutes4 ,rice-flour1 #a large dessertspoonful2 mushroom catsup1 #b tablespoonsful2 mace1 #a_/c of teaspoonful2 little cayenne 7salt1 if needed73 #aj minutes4 ,,to ,,roast ,a ,,rabbit4 ,illustration3 ,rabbit for roasting4 ,this1 like a hare1 is much improved by having the back-bone taken out1 and the directions we have given will enable the cook1 with very little practice1 to remove it without difficulty4 ,line the inside1 when this is done1 with thin slices of bacon1 fill it with forcemeat 7,no4 #a1 ,chapter ,,viii71 sew it up1 truss1 and roast it at a clear1 brisk fire1 and baste it constantly with butter4 ,flour it well soon after it is laid down4 ,serve it with good brown gravy1 and with currant jelly1 when this last is liked4 ,for change1 the back of the rabbit may be larded1 and the bone left in1 or not1 at pleasure2 or it can be plain roasted when more convenient4 #c_/d to #a hour2 less1 if small4 ,,to ,,boil ,,rabbits4 ,illustration3 ,rabbit for boiling4 ,rabbits that are three parts grown1 or1 at all events1 which are still quite young1 should be chosen for this mode of cooking4 ,wash them well1 truss them firmly1 with the heads turned and skewered to the sides1 drop them into sufficient boiling water to keep them quite covered until they are cooked1 and simmer them gently from thirty to forty-five minutes3 when very young they will require even less time than this4 ,cover them with rich white sauce1 mixed with the livers parboiled1 finely pounded1 and well seasoned with cayenne and lemon-juice2 or with white onion sauce1 or with parsley and butter1 made with milk or cream instead of water 7the livers1 minced1 are often added to the last of these71 or with good mushroom sauce4 #cj to #de minutes4 ,,fried ,,rabbit4 ,after the rabbit has been emptied1 thoroughly washed and soaked1 should it require it to remove any mustiness of smell1 blanch it1 that is to say1 put it into boiling water and let it boil from five to seven minutes2 drain it1 and when cold or nearly so1 cut it into joints1 dip them into beaten egg1 and then into fine bread-crumbs1 seasoned with salt and pepper1 and when all are ready1 fry them in butter over a moderate fire1 from twelve to fifteen minutes4 ,simmer two or three strips of lemon-rind in a little gravy1 until it is well flavoured with it2 boil the liver of the rabbit for five minutes1 let it cool1 and then mince it2 thicken the gravy with an ounce of butter and a small teaspoonful of flour1 add the liver1 give the sauce a minute's boil1 stir in two tablespoonsful of cream if at hand1 and last of all1 a small quantity of lemon-juice4 ,dish the rabbit1 pour the sauce under it1 and serve it quickly4 ,if preferred1 a gravy can be made in the pan as for veal cutlets1 and the rabbit may be simply fried4 ,,to ,,roast ,a ,,pheasant4 ,in season from the beginning of ,october to the end of ,january4 ,the licensed term of pheasant shooting commences on the #ast of ,october1 and terminates on the #bnd of ,february1 but as the birds will remain perfectly good in cold weather for two or three weeks1 if from that time hung in a well-ventilated larder1 they continue1 correctly speaking1 in season so long as they can be preserved fit for table after the regular market for them is closed3 the same rule applies equally to other varieties of game4 ,illustration3 ,pheasant trussed without the head4 ,unless kept to the proper point1 a pheasant is one of the most tough1 dry1 and flavourless birds that is sent to table2 but when it has hung as many days as it can without becoming really tainted1 and is well roasted and served1 it is most excellent eating4 ,pluck off the feathers carefully1 cut a slit in the back of the neck to remove the crop1 then draw the bird in the usual way1 and either wipe the inside very clean with a damp cloth1 or pour water through it2 wipe the outside also1 but with a dry cloth2 cut off the toes1 turn the head of the bird under the wing1 with the bill laid straight along the breast1 skewer the legs1 which must not be crossed1 flour the pheasant well1 lay it to a brisk fire1 and baste it constantly and plentifully with well flavoured butter4 ,send bread-sauce and good brown gravy to table with it4 ,the entire breast of the bird may be larded by the directions of ,chapter ,,ix ,when a brace is served1 one is sometimes larded1 and the other not2 but a much handsomer appearance is given to the dish by larding both4 ,about three quarters of an hour will roast them4 #c_/d hour2 a few minutes less1 if liked very much underdone2 five or ten more for thorough roasting1 with a good fire in both cases4 ,,boudin ,,of ,,pheasant ,,la ,,richelieu4 7,,entr,e47 ,take1 quite clear from the bones1 and from all skin and sinew1 the flesh of a half-roasted pheasant2 mince1 and then pound it to the smoothest paste2 add an equal bulk of the floury part of some fine roasted potatoes1 or of such as have been boiled by ,captain ,kater's receipt 7see ,chapter ,,xvii471 and beat them together until they are well blended2 next throw into the mortar something less 7in volume7 of fresh butter than there was of the pheasant-flesh1 with a high seasoning of mace1 nutmeg1 and cayenne1 and a half-teaspoonful or more of salt2 pound the mixture afresh for ten minutes or a quarter of an hour1 keeping it turned from the sides of the mortar into the middle2 then add one by one1 after merely taking out the germs with the point of a fork1 two whole eggs and a yolk or two without the whites1 if these last will not render the mixture too moist4 ,mould it into the form of a roll1 lay it into a stewpan rubbed with butter1 pour boiling water on it and poach it gently from ten to fifteen minutes4 ,lift it out with care1 drain it on a sieve1 and when it is quite cold cover it equally with beaten egg1 and then with the finest bread-crumbs1 and broil it over a clear fire1 or fry it in butter of a clear golden brown4 ,a good gravy should be made of the remains of the bird and sent to table with it2 the flavour may be heightened with ham and eschalots1 as directed in ,chapter ,,iv41 page #if1 and small mushrooms1 sliced sideways1 and stewed quite tender in butter1 may be mixed with the boudin after it is taken from the mortar2 or their flavour may be given more delicately by adding to it only the butter in which they have been simmered1 well pressed1 from them through a strainer4 ,the mixture1 which should be set into a very cool place before it is moulded1 may be made into several small rolls1 which will require four or five minutes' poaching only4 ,the flesh of partridges will answer quite as well as that of pheasants for this dish4 ,,salmi ,,of ,,pheasant4 7,see page #bib47 ,,pheasant ,,cutlets4 7,see page #bge47 ,,to ,,roast ,,partridges4 ,in season from the first of ,september to the second of ,february1 and as long as they can be preserved fit for table from that time4 ,illustration3 ,partridge trussed4 ,let the birds hang as long as they can possibly be kept without becoming offensive2 pick them carefully1 draw1 and singe them2 wipe the insides thoroughly with a clean cloth2 truss them with the head turned under the wing and the legs drawn close together1 not crossed4 ,flour them when first laid to the fire1 and baste them plentifully with butter4 ,serve them with bread sauce1 and good brown gravy1 a little of this last should be poured over them4 ,in some counties they are dished upon fried bread-crumbs1 but these are better handed round the table by themselves4 ,where game is plentiful we recommend that the remains of a cold roasted partridge should be well bruised and boiled down with just so much water1 or unflavoured broth1 as will make gravy for a brace of other birds3 this1 seasoned with salt1 and cayenne only1 or flavoured with a few mushrooms1 will be found a very superior accompaniment for roast partridges1 to the best meat-gravy that can be made4 ,a little eschalot1 and a few herbs1 can be added to it at pleasure4 ,it should be served also with boiled or with broiled partridges in preference to any other4 #cj to #dj minutes4 ,obs4--,rather less time must be allowed when the birds are liked underdressed4 ,in preparing them for the spit1 the crop must be removed through a slit cut in the back of the neck1 the claws clipped close1 and the legs held in boiling water for a minute1 that they may be skinned the more easily4 ,,boiled ,,partridges4 ,this is a delicate mode of dressing young and tender birds4 ,strip off the feathers1 clean1 and wash them well2 cut off the heads1 truss the legs like those of boiled fowls1 and when ready1 drop them into a large pan of boiling water2 throw a little salt on them1 and in fifteen1 or at the utmost in eighteen minutes they will be ready to serve4 ,lift them out1 dish them quickly1 and send them to table with white mushroom sauce1 with bread sauce and game gravy 7see preceding receipt71 or with celery sauce4 ,our own mode of having them served is usually with a slice of fresh butter1 about a tablespoonful of lemon-juice1 and a good sprinkling of cayenne placed in a very hot dish1 under them4 #ae to #ah minutes4 ,,partridges ,,with ,,mushrooms4 ,for a brace of young well-kept birds1 prepare from half to three quarters of a pint of mushroom-buttons1 or very small flaps1 as for pickling4 ,dissolve over a gentle fire an ounce and a half of butter1 throw in the mushrooms with a slight sprinkling of salt and cayenne1 simmer them from eight to ten minutes1 and turn them with the butter on to a plate2 when they are quite cold1 put the whole into the bodies of the partridges1 sew them up1 truss them securely1 and roast them on a vertical jack with the heads downwards2 or should an ordinary spit be used1 tie them firmly to it1 instead of passing it through them4 ,roast them the usual time1 and serve them with brown mushroom sauce1 or with gravy and bread sauce only4 ,the birds may be trussed like boiled fowls1 floured1 and lightly browned in butter1 half covered with rich brown gravy and stewed slowly for thirty minutes2 then turned1 and simmered for another half hour with the addition of some mushrooms to the gravy2 or they may be covered with small mushrooms stewed apart1 when they are sent to table4 ,they can also be served with their sauce only1 simply thickened with a small quantity of fresh butter1 smoothly mixed with less than a teaspoonful of arrow-root and flavoured with cayenne and a little catsup1 wine1 or store sauce4 ,partridges1 #b2 mushrooms1 #a_/b to #c_/d pint2 butter1 #a-a_/b oz42 little mace and cayenne3 roasted #cj to #dj minutes1 or stewed #a hour4 ,obs4--,nothing can be finer than the game flavour imbibed by the mushrooms with which the birds are filled1 in this receipt4 ,,broiled ,,partridge4 7,breakfast ,dish47 8,split a young and well-kept partridge1 and wipe it with a soft clean cloth inside and out1 but do not wash it2 broil it delicately over a very clear fire1 sprinkling it with a little salt and cayenne2 rub a bit of fresh butter over it the moment it is taken from the fire1 and send it quickly to table with a sauce made of a good slice of butter browned with flour1 a little water1 cayenne1 salt1 and mushroom-catsup1 poured over it40 ,we give this receipt exactly as we received it from a house where we know it to have been greatly approved by various guests who have partaken of it there4 ,,broiled ,,partridge4 7,french ,receipt47 ,after having prepared the bird with great nicety1 divided1 and flattened it1 season it with salt1 and pepper1 or cayenne1 dip it into clarified butter1 and then into very fine bread-crumbs1 and take care that every part shall be equally covered3 if wanted of particularly good appearance dip it a second time into the butter and crumbs4 ,place it over a very clear fire1 and broil it gently from twenty to thirty minutes4 ,send it to table with brown mushroom sauce1 or some ,espagnole4 ,,the ,,french1 ,,or ,,red-,,legged ,,partridge4 ,this is dressed precisely like our common partridge1 and is excellent eating if it be well kept2 otherwise it is tough and devoid of flavour4 ,it does not1 we believe1 abound commonly in ,england1 its hostility to the gray partridge1 which it drives always from its neighbourhood1 rendering it an undesirable occupant of a preserve4 ,it was at one time1 however1 plentiful in ,suffolk1#id and in one or two of the adjoining counties1 but great efforts1 we have understood1 have been made to exterminate it4 ,footnote #id3 ,brought there by the late ,marquis of ,hertford1 to his ,sudbourne estate4 ,,to ,,roast ,,the ,,landrail ,,or ,,corn-,,crake4 ,this delicate and excellent bird is in its full season at the end of ,august and early in ,september1 when it abounds often in the poulterers' shops4 ,its plumage resembles that of the partridge1 but it is of smaller size and of much more slender shape4 ,strip off the feathers1 draw and prepare the bird as usual for the spit1 truss it like a snipe1 and roast it quickly at a brisk but not a fierce fire from fifteen to eighteen minutes4 ,dish it on fried bread-crumbs1 or omit these and serve it with gravy round it1 and more in a tureen1 and with well made bread sauce4 ,three or even four of the birds will be required for a dish4 ,one makes a nice dinner for an invalid4 ,,to ,,roast ,,black ,,cock ,,and ,,gray ,,hen4 ,in season during the same time as the common grouse1 and found like them on the moors1 but less abundantly4 ,these birds1 so delicious when well kept and well roasted1 are tough and comparatively flavourless when too soon dressed4 ,they should hang therefore till they give unequivocal indication of being ready for the spit4 ,pick and draw them with exceeding care1 as the skin is easily broken2 truss them like pheasants1 lay them at a moderate distance from a clear brisk fire1 baste them plentifully and constantly with butter1 and serve them on a thick toast which has been laid under them in the dripping-pan for the last ten minutes of their roasting1 and which will have imbibed a high degree of savour3 some cooks squeeze a little lemon-juice over it before it is put into the pan4 ,send rich brown gravy and bread sauce to table with the birds4 ,from three quarters of an hour to a full hour will roast them4 ,though kept to the point which we have recommended1 they will not offend even the most fastidious eater after they are dressed1 as1 unless they have been too long allowed to hang1 the action of the fire will remove all perceptible traces of their previous state4 ,in the earlier part of the season1 when warm and close packing have rendered either black game or grouse1 in their transit from the ,north1 apparently altogether unfit for table1 the chloride of soda1 well-diluted1 may be used with advantage to restore them to a fitting state for it2 though the copious washings which must then be resorted to1 may diminish something of their fine flavour4 #c_/d to #a hour4 ,,to ,,roast ,,grouse4 ,handle the birds very lightly in plucking off the feathers2 draw them1 and wipe the insides with clean damp cloths2 or first wash1 and then dry them well2 though this latter mode would not be approved generally by epicures4 ,truss the grouse in the same manner as the black game above1 and roast them about half an hour at a clear and brisk fire1 keeping them basted1 almost without intermission4 ,serve them on a buttered toast which has been laid under them in the pan for ten minutes1 or with gravy and bread sauce only4 #a_/b hour to #ce minutes ,obs4--,there are few occasions1 we think1 in which the contents of the dripping-pan can be introduced at table with advantage2 but in dressing moor game1 we would strongly recommend the toast to be laid in it under the birds1 as it will afford a superior relish even to the birds themselves4 ,a ,,salmi ,,of ,,moor ,,fowl1 ,,pheasants1 ,,or ,,partridges4 7,,entr,e47 ,this is an excellent mode of serving the remains of roasted game1 but when a superlative salmi is desired1 the birds must be scarcely more then half roasted for it4 ,in either case carve them very neatly1 and strip every particle of skin and fat from the legs1 wings1 and breasts2 bruise the bodies well1 and put them with the skin and other trimmings into a very clean stewpan4 ,if for a simple and inexpensive dinner1 merely add to them two or three sliced eschalots1 a bay leaf1 a small blade of mace1 and a few peppercorns2 then pour in a pint or rather more of good veal gravy or strong broth1 and boil it briskly until reduced nearly half2 strain the gravy1 pressing the bones well to obtain all the flavour1 skim off the fat1 add a little cayenne and lemon-juice1 heat the game very gradually in it1 but do not on any account allow it to boil2 place sippets of fried bread round a dish1 arrange the birds in good form in the centre1 give the sauce a boil1 and pour it on them4 ,this is but a homely sort of salmi1 though of excellent flavour if well made2 it may require perhaps the addition of a little thickening1 and two or three glasses of dry white wine poured to the bodies of the birds with the broth1 would bring it nearer to the ,french salmi in flavour4 ,as the spongy substance in the inside of moor fowl and black game is apt to be extremely bitter when they have been long kept1 care should be taken to remove such parts as would endanger the preparation4 ,,french ,,salmi1 ,,or ,,hash ,,of ,,game4 7,,entr,e47 ,prepare underdressed or half-roasted game by the directions we have already given1 and after having stripped the skin from the thighs1 wings1 and breasts1 arrange the joints evenly in a clean stewpan1 and keep them covered from the air and dust till wanted4 ,cut down into dice four ounces of the lean of an unboiled ham1 and put it1 with two ounces of butter1 into a thick well-tinned saucepan or stewpan2 add three or four minced eschalots 7more1 should a high flavour of them be liked71 two ounces of sliced carrot1 four cloves1 two bay leaves1 a dozen peppercorns1 one blade of mace1 a small sprig or two of thyme1 and part of a root of parsley1 or two or three small branches of the leaves4 ,stew these over a gentle fire1 stirring or shaking them often1 until the sides of the saucepan appear of a reddish-brown1 then mix well with them a dessertspoonful of flour1 and let it take a little colour4 ,next1 add by degrees1 making the sauce boil as each portion is thrown in1 three quarters of a pint of strong veal stock or gravy1 and nearly half a pint of sherry or ,madeira2 put in the well-bruised bodies of the birds1 and boil them from an hour to an hour and a half2 strain1 and clear the sauce quite from fat2 pour it on the joints of game1 heat them in it slowly2 and when they are near the point of boiling1 dish them immediately with delicately fried sippets round the dish4 ,when mushrooms can be obtained1 throw a dozen or two of small ones1 with the other seasonings1 into the butter4 ,the wine is sometimes added to the vegetables1 and one half reduced before the gravy is poured in2 but though a sauce of fine colour is thus produced the flavour of the wine is entirely lost4 ,,to ,,roast ,,woodcocks ,,or ,,snipes4 ,in season during the winter months1 but not abundant until frost sets in44 ,handle them as little and as lightly as possible1 and pluck off the feathers gently2 for if this be violently done the skin of the birds will be broken4 ,do not draw them1 but after having wiped them with clean soft cloths1 truss them with the head under the wing1 and the bill laid close along the breast2 pass a slight skewer through the thighs1 catch the ends with a bit of twine1 and tie it across to keep the legs straight4 ,suspend the birds with the feet downwards to a bird-spit1 flour them well1 and baste them with butter1 which should be ready dissolved in the pan or ladle4 ,before the trail begins to drop1 which it will do as soon as they are well heated1 lay a thick round of bread1 freed from the crust1 toasted a delicate brown1 and buttered on both sides1 into the pan under them to catch it1 as this is considered finer eating even than the flesh of the birds2 continue the basting1 letting the butter fall from them into the basting-spoon or ladle1 as it cannot be collected again from the dripping-pan should it drop there1 in consequence of the toast or toasts being in it4 ,there should be one of these for each woodcock1 and the trail should be spread equally over it4 ,when the birds are done1 which they will be1 at a brisk fire1 in from twenty to twenty-five minutes1 lay the toasts into a very hot dish1 dress the birds upon them1 pour a little gravy round the bread1 and send more to table in a tureen4 ,woodcock1 #bj to #be minutes2 snipe1 #e minutes less4 ,,to ,,roast ,,the ,,pintail1 ,,or ,,sea ,,pheasant4 ,all wild-fowl is in full season in mid-winter3 the more severe the weather1 the more abundant are the supplies of it in the markets4 ,it may be had usually from ,november to ,march44 ,this beautiful bird is by no means rare upon our eastern coast1 but we know not whether it be much seen in the markets generally4 ,it is most excellent eating1 and should be roasted at a clear quick fire1 well floured when first laid down1 turned briskly1 and basted with butter almost without cessation4 ,if drawn from the spit in from twenty-five to thirty minutes1 then dished and laid before the fire for two or three more1 it will give forth a singularly rich gravy4 ,score the breast2 when it is carved sprinkle on it a little cayenne and fine salt1 and let a cut lemon be handed round the table when the bird is served2 or omit the scoring1 and send round with it brown gravy1 and ,christopher ,north's sauce made hot4 7,for this1 see the following page47 #bj to #cj minutes4 ,,to ,,roast ,,wild ,,ducks4 ,a bit of soft bread soaked in port wine1 or in claret1 is sometimes put into them1 but nothing more4 ,flour them well1 lay them rather near to a very clear and brisk fire1 that they may be quickly browned1 and yet retain their juices4 ,baste them plentifully and constantly with butter1 and1 if it can be so regulated1 let the spit turn with them rapidly4 ,from fifteen to twenty minutes will roast them sufficiently for the generality of eaters2 but for those who object to them much underdressed1 a few additional minutes must be allowed4 ,something less of time will suffice when they are prepared for persons who like them scarcely more than heated through4 ,teal1 which is a more delicate kind of wild fowl1 is roasted in the same way3 in from ten to fifteen minutes it will be enough done for the fashionable mode of serving it1 and twenty minutes will dress it well at a good fire4 ,a ,,salmi1 ,,or ,,hash ,,of ,,wild ,,fowl4 ,carve the birds very neatly1 strip off the skin1 and proceed as for the salmi of pheasants 7page #bib71 but mix port or claret1 instead of white wine1 with the gravy1 and give it a rather high seasoning of cayenne4 ,throw in the juice of half a small lemon before the salmi is served1 place fried sippets round the dish1 and send it to table as hot as possible4 ,for a common hash boil the skin and trimmings of the wild-fowl in some good broth1 or gravy 7with a couple of lightly fried eschalots or not1 at choice71 until their flavour is imparted to it2 then strain1 heat1 and thicken it slightly1 with a little brown roux1 or browned flour2 add a wineglassful of port wine1 some lemon-juice1 and cayenne2 or sufficient of ,christopher ,north's sauce to flavour it well2 warm the birds slowly in it1 and serve them as soon as they are thoroughly hot1 but without allowing them to boil4 -------------- ,the following receipt having1 from inadvertence1 been omitted from the chapter to which it properly belongs--as the reader has already been informed--a place is given to it here4 ,,christopher ,,north',s ,,own ,,sauce ,,for ,,many ,,meats4 ,throw into a small basin a heaped saltspoonful of good cayenne pepper1 in very fine powder and half the quantity of salt2 add a small dessertspoonful of well-refined1 pounded1 and sifted sugar2 mix these thoroughly2 then pour in a tablespoonful of the strained juice of a fresh lemon1 two of ,harvey's sauce1 a teaspoonful of the very best mushroom catsup 7or of cavice71 and three tablespoonsful1 or a small wineglassful1 of port wine4 ,heat the sauce by placing the basin in a saucepan of boiling water1 or turn it into a jar1 and place this in the water4 ,serve it directly1 it is ready with geese or ducks1 tame or wild2 roast pork1 venison1 fawn1 a grilled blade-bone1 or any other broil4 ,a slight flavour of garlic or eschalot vinegar may be given to it at pleasure4 ,some persons use it with fish4 ,it is good cold2 and1 if bottled directly it is made1 may be stored for several days4 ,it is the better for being mixed some hours before it is served4 ,the proportion of cayenne may be doubled when a very pungent sauce is desired4 ,good cayenne pepper in fine powder1 #a heaped saltspoonful3 salt1 half as much2 pounded sugar1 #a small dessertspoonful2 strained lemon juice1 #a tablespoonful2 ,harvey's sauce1 #b tablespoonsful2 best mushroom catsup 7or cavice71 #a teaspoonful2 port wine1 #c tablespoonsful1 or small wineglassful4 7,little eschalot1 or garlic-vinegar at pleasure47 ,obs4--,this sauce is exceedingly good when mixed with the brown gravy of a hash or stew1 or with that which is served with game or other dishes4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,chapter ,,xvi4 ,curries1 ,potted ,meats1 c4 ,illustration ,,the great superiority of the oriental curries over those generally prepared in ,england is not1 we believe1 altogether the result of a want of skill or of experience on the part of our cooks1 but is attributable in some measure1 to many of the ingredients1 which in a fresh and green state add so much to their excellence1 being here beyond our reach4 ,with us1 turmeric and cayenne pepper prevail in them often far too powerfully3 the prodigal use of the former should be especially avoided1 as it injures both the quality and the colour of the currie1 which ought to be of a dark green1 rather than of a red or yellow hue4 ,a couple of ounces of a sweet1 sound cocoa-nut1 lightly grated and stewed for nearly or quite an hour in the gravy of a currie1 is a great improvement to its flavour3 it will be found particularly agreeable with that of sweetbreads1 and may be served in the currie1 or strained from it at pleasure4 ,great care however1 should be taken not to use1 for the purpose1 a nut that is rancid4 ,spinach1 cucumbers1 vegetable marrow1 tomatas1 acid apples1 green gooseberries 7seeded71 and tamarinds imported in the shell--not preserved--may all1 in their season1 be added1 with very good effect1 to curries of different kinds4 ,potatoes and celery are also occasionally boiled down in them4 ,the rice for a currie should always be sent to table in a separate dish from it1 and in serving them1 it should be first helped1 and the currie laid upon it4 ,,mr4 ,,arnott',s ,,currie-,,powder4 ,turmeric1 eight ounces4#ie ,coriander seed1 four ounces4 ,cummin seed1 two ounces4 ,fnugreek seed1 two ounces4 ,cayenne1 half an ounce4 7,more or less of this last to the taste47 ,footnote #ie3 ,we think it would be an improvement to diminish by two ounces the proportion of turmeric1 and to increase that of the coriander seed2 but we have not tried it4 ,let the seeds be of the finest quality4 ,dry them well1 pound1 and sift them separately through a lawn sieve1 then weigh1 and mix them in the above proportions4 ,this is an exceedingly agreeable and aromatic powder1 when all the ingredients are perfectly fresh and good1 but the preparing is rather a troublesome process4 ,mr4 ,arnott recommends that when it is considered so1 a 8high-caste0 chemist should be applied to for it4 ,,mr4 ,,arnott',s ,,currie4 8,take the heart of a cabbage1 and nothing but the heart1 that is to say1 pull away all the outside leaves until it is about the size of an egg2 chop it fine1 add to it a couple of apples sliced thin1 the juice of one lemon1 half a teaspoonful of black pepper1 with one large tablespoonful of my currie-powder1 and mix the whole well together4 ,now take six onions that have been chopped fine and fried brown1 a garlic head1 the size of a nutmeg1 also minced fine1 two ounces of fresh butter1 two tablespoonsful of flour1 and one pint of strong mutton or beef gravy2 and when these articles are boiling1 add the former ingredients1 and let the whole be well stewed up together3 if not hot enough1 add cayenne pepper4 ,next put in a fowl that has been roasted and nicely cut up2 or a rabbit2 or some lean chops of pork or mutton2 or a lobster1 or the remains of yesterday's calf's head2 or anything else you may fancy2 and you will have an excellent currie1 fit for kings to partake of4 8,well6 now for the rice6 ,it should be put into water which should be frequently changed1 and should remain in for half an hour at least2 this both clears and soaks it4 ,have your saucepan full of water 7the larger the better71 and when it boils rapidly1 throw the rice into it3 it will be done in fifteen minutes4 ,strain it into a dish1 wipe the saucepan dry1 return the drained rice into it1 and put it over a gentle fire for a few minutes1 with a cloth over it3 every grain will be separate4 ,when served1 do not cover the dish40 ,obs4--,we have already given testimony to the excellence of ,mr4 ,arnott's currie-powder1 but we think the currie itself will be found somewhat too acid for ,english taste in general1 and the proportion of onion and garlic by one half too much for any but well seasoned ,anglo-,indian palates4 ,after having tried his method of boiling the rice1 we still give the preference to that of ,chapter ,i41 page #cf4 ,a ,,bengal ,,currie4 ,slice and fry three large onions in two ounces of butter1 and lift them out of the pan when done4 ,put into a stewpan three other large onions and a small clove of garlic which have been pounded together1 and smoothly mixed with a dessertspoonful of the best pale turmeric1 a teaspoonful of powdered ginger1 one of salt1 and one of cayenne pepper2 add to these the butter in which the onions were fried1 and half a cupful of good gravy2 let them stew for about ten minutes1 taking care that they shall not burn4 ,next1 stir to them the fried onions and half a pint more of gravy2 add a pound and a half of mutton1 or of any other meat1 free from bone and fat1 and simmer it gently for an hour1 or more should it not then be perfectly tender4 ,fried onions1 #c large2 butter1 #b oz42 onions pounded1 #c large2 garlic1 #a clove2 turmeric1 #a dessertspoonful2 powdered ginger1 salt1 cayenne1 each #a teaspoonful2 gravy1 #a_/b cupful3 #aj minutes4 ,gravy #a_/b pint2 meat1 #a-a_/b lb43 #a hour or more4 ,a ,,dry ,,currie4 ,skin and cut down a fowl into small joints1 or a couple of pounds of mutton1 free from fat and bone1 into very small thick cutlets2 rub them with as much currie-powder1 mixed with a teaspoonful of flour and one of salt1 as can be made to adhere to them3 this will be from two to three tablespoonsful4 ,dissolve a good slice of butter in a deep1 well-tinned stewpan or saucepan1 and shake it over a brisk fire for four or five minutes1 or until it begins to take colour2 then put in the meat1 and brown it well and equally1 without allowing a morsel to be scorched4 ,the pan should be shaken vigorously every minute or two1 and the meat turned in it frequently4 ,when this is done1 lift it out and throw into the stewpan two or three large onions finely minced1 and four or five eschalots when these last are liked2 add a morsel of butter if needful1 and fry them until they begin to soften2 then add a quarter of a pint of gravy1 broth1 or boiling water1 and a large acid apple1 or two moderate-sized ones1 of a good boiling kind1 with the hearts of two or three lettuces1 or of one hard cabbage1 shred quite small 7tomatas or cucumbers freed from their seeds can be substituted for these when in season74 ,stew the whole slowly until it resembles a thick pulp1 and add to it any additional liquid that may be required1 should it become too dry2 put in the meat1 and simmer the whole very softly until this is done1 which will be in from three quarters of an hour to an hour4 ,prawns1 shrimps1 or the flesh of boiled lobsters may be slowly heated through1 and served in this currie sauce with good effect4 ,a ,,common ,,indian ,,currie4 ,for each pound of meat1 whether veal1 mutton1 or beef1 take a heaped tablespoonful of good currie powder1 a small teaspoonful of salt1 and one of flour2 mix these well together1 and after having cut down the meat into thick small cutlets1 or dice1 rub half of the mixed powder equally over it4 ,next1 fry gently from one to four or five large onions sliced1 with or without the addition of a small clove of garlic or half a dozen eschalots1 according to the taste2 and when they are of a fine golden brown1 lift them out with a slice and lay them upon a sieve to drain2 throw a little more butter into the pan and fry the meat lightly in it2 drain it well from the fat in taking it out1 and lay it into a clean stewpan or saucepan2 strew the onion over it1 and pour in as much boiling water as will almost cover it4 ,mix the remainder of the currie-powder smoothly with a little broth or cold water1 and after the currie has stewed for a few minutes pour it in1 shaking the pan well round that it may be smoothly blended with the gravy4 ,simmer the whole very softly until the meat is perfectly tender3 this will be in from an hour and a quarter to two hours and a half1 according to the quantity and the nature of the meat4 ,mutton will be the soonest done2 the brisket end 7gristles7 of a breast of veal will require twice as much stewing1 and sometimes more4 ,a fowl will be ready to serve in an hour4 ,an acid apple or two1 or any of the vegetables which we have enumerated at the commencement of this chapter1 may be added to the currie1 proper time being allowed for cooking each variety4 ,very young green peas are liked by some people in it2 and cucumbers pared1 seeded1 and cut moderately small1 are always a good addition4 ,a richer currie will of course be produced if gravy or broth be substituted for the water3 either should be boiling when poured to the meat4 ,lemon-juice should be stirred in before it is served1 when there is no other acid in the currie4 ,a dish of boiled rice must be sent to table with it4 ,a couple of pounds of meat free from bone1 is sufficient quite for a moderate-sized dish of this kind1 but three of the breast of veal are sometimes used for it1 when it is to be served to a large family-party of currie-eaters2 from half to a whole pound of rice should then accompany it4 ,for the proper mode of boiling it1 see page #cf4 ,the small grained1 or ,patna1 is the kind which ought to be used for the purpose4 ,six ounces is sufficient for a not large currie2 and a pound1 when boiled dry1 and heated lightly in a dish1 appears an enormous quantity for a modern table4 ,to each pound of meat1 whether veal1 mutton1 or beef1 #a heaped tablespoonful of good currie-powder1 #a small teaspoonful of salt1 and a large one of flour1 to be well mixed1 and half rubbed on to the meat before it is fried1 the rest added afterwards2 onions fried1 from #a to #d or #e 7with or without the addition of a clove of garlic1 or half a dozen eschalots72 sufficient boiling water to nearly cover the meat3 vegetables1 as in receipt1 at choice2 stewed1 #a-a_/d to #b-a_/b hours3 a fowl1 #a hour1 or rather less2 beef1 #b lbs41 #a-a_/b hour1 or more2 brisket of veal1 #b-a_/b to #c hours4 ,obs4--,rabbits make a very good currie when quite young4 ,cayenne pepper can always be added to heighten the pungency of a currie1 when the proportion in the powder is not considered sufficient4 ,,selim',s ,,curries4 7,captain ,white's47 ,these curries are made with a sort of paste1 which is labelled with the above names1 and as it has attracted some attention of late1 and the curries made with it are very good1 and quickly and easily prepared1 we give the directions for them4 8,cut a pound and a half of chicken1 fowl1 veal1 rabbit1 or mutton1 into pieces an inch and a half square4 ,put from two to three ounces of fresh butter in a stewpan1 and when it is melted put in the meat1 and give it a good stir with a wooden spoon2 add from two to three dessertspoonsful of the currie-paste2 mix the whole up well together1 and continue the stirring over a brisk fire from five to ten minutes1 and the currie will be done4 ,this is a dry currie4 ,for a gravy currie1 add two or three tablespoonsful of boiling water after the paste is well mixed in1 and continue the stewing and stirring from ten to twelve minutes longer1 keeping the sauce of the consistency of cream4 ,prepare salmon and lobster in the same way1 but very quickly1 that they may come up firm4 ,the paste may be rubbed over steaks1 or cutlets1 when they are nearly broiled2 three or four minutes will finish them40#if ,footnote #if3 ,unless the meat be extremely tender1 and cut small1 it will require from ten to fifteen minutes stewing3 when no liquid is added1 it must be stirred without intermission1 or the paste will burn to the pan4 ,it answers well for cutlets1 and for mullagatawny soup also2 but makes a very mild currie4 ,,curried ,,maccaroni ,boil six ounces of ribband maccaroni for fifteen minutes1 in water slightly salted1 with a very small bit of butter dissolved in it2 drain it perfectly1 and then put it into a full pint and a quarter of good beef or veal stock or gravy1 previously mixed and boiled for twenty minutes1 with a small tablespoonful of fine currie-powder1 a teaspoonful of arrow-root1 and a little lemon-juice4 ,heat and toss the maccaroni gently in this until it is well and equally covered with it4 ,a small quantity of rich cream1 or a little bchamel1 will very much improve the sauce1 into which it should be stirred just before the maccaroni is added1 and the lemon-juice should be thrown in afterwards4 ,this dish is1 to our taste1 far better without the strong flavouring of onion or garlic1 usually given to curries2 which can1 however1 be imparted to the gravy in the usual way1 when it is liked4 ,ribband maccaroni1 #f oz43 #ae to #ah minutes4 ,gravy1 or good beef or veal stock1 full pint and #a_/d2 fine currie-powder1 #a small tablespoonful2 arrow-root1 #a teaspoonful2 little lemon-juice3 #bj minutes4 ,maccaroni in sauce1 #c to #f minutes4 ,obs4--,an ounce or two of grated cocoa-nut1 simmered in the gravy for half an hour or more1 then strained and well pressed from it1 is always an excellent addition4 ,the pipe maccaroni1 well curried1 is extremely good3 the sauce for both kinds should be made with rich gravy1 especially when the onion is omitted4 ,a few drops of eschalot-vinegar can be added to it when the flavour is liked4 ,,curried ,,eggs4 ,boil six or eight fresh eggs quite hard1 as for salad1 and put them aside until they are cold4 ,mix well together from two to three ounces of good butter1 and from three to four dessertspoonsful of currie-powder2 shake them in a stewpan or thick saucepan1 over a clear but moderate fire for some minutes1 then throw in a couple of mild onions finely minced1 and fry them gently until they are tolerably soft3 pour to them1 by degrees1 from half to three quarters of a pint of broth or gravy1 and stew them slowly until they are reduced to pulp2 mix smoothly a small cup of thick cream with two teaspoonsful of wheaten or of rice-flour1 stir them to the currie1 and simmer the whole until the raw taste of the thickening is gone4 ,cut the eggs into half inch slices1 heat them quite through in the sauce without boiling them1 and serve them as hot as possible4 ,,curried ,,sweetbreads4 ,wash and soak them as usual1 then throw them into boiling water with a little salt in it1 and a whole onion1 and let them simmer for ten minutes2 or1 if at hand1 substitute weak veal broth for the water4 ,lift them out1 place them on a drainer1 and leave them until they are perfectly cold2 then cut them into half-inch slices1 and either flour and fry them lightly in butter1 or put them1 without this1 into as much curried gravy as will just cover them2 stew them in it very gently1 from twenty to thirty minutes2 add as much lemon-juice or chili vinegar as will acidulate the sauce agreeably1#ig and serve the currie very hot4 ,as we have already stated in two or three previous receipts1 an ounce or more of sweet freshly-grated cocoa-nut1 stewed tender in the gravy1 and strained from it1 before the sweetbreads are added1 will give a peculiarly pleasant flavour to all curries4 ,footnote #ig3 ,we find that a small portion of ,indian pickled mango1 or of its liquor1 is an agreeable addition to a currie as well as to mullagatawny soup4 ,blanched #aj minutes2 sliced 7fried or not72 stewed #bj to #cj minutes4 ,,curried ,,oysters4 8,let a hundred of large sea-oysters be opened into a basin without losing one drop of their liquor4 ,put a lump of fresh butter into a good-sized saucepan1 and when it boils1 add a large onion1 cut into thin slices1 and let it fry in the uncovered stewpan until it is of a rich brown3 now add a bit more butter1 and two or three tablespoonsful of currie-powder4 ,when these ingredients are well mixed over the fire with a wooden spoon1 add gradually either hot water1 or broth from the stock-pot2 cover the stewpan1 and let the whole boil up4 ,meanwhile1 have ready the meat of a cocoa-nut1 grated or rasped fine1 put this into the stewpan with a few sour tamarinds 7if they are to be obtained1 if not1 a sour apple1 chopped74 ,let the whole simmer over the fire until the apple is dissolved1 and the cocoa-nut very tender2 then add a cupful of strong thickening made of flour and water1 and sufficient salt1 as a currie will not bear being salted at table4 ,let this boil up for five minutes4 ,have ready also1 a vegetable marrow1 or part of one1 cut into bits1 and sufficiently boiled to require little or no further cooking4 ,put this in with a tomata or two2 either of these vegetables may be omitted4 ,now put into the stewpan the oysters with their liquor1 and the milk of the cocoa-nut1 if it be perfectly sweet2 stir them well with the former ingredients2 let the currie stew gently for a few minutes1 then throw in the strained juice of half a lemon4 ,stir the currie from time to time with a wooden spoon1 and as soon as the oysters are done enough serve it up with a corresponding dish of rice on the opposite side of the table4 ,the dish is considered at ,madras the ne plus ultra of ,indian cookery40#ih ,footnote #ih3 ,native oysters1 prepared as for sauce1 may be curried by the receipt for eggs or sweetbreads1 with the addition of their liquor4 ,we have extracted this receipt1 as it stands1 from the ,magazine of ,domestic ,economy1 the season in which we have met with it not permitting us to have it tested4 ,such of our readers as may have partaken of the true ,oriental preparation1 will be able to judge of its correctness2 and others may consider it worthy of a trial4 ,we should suppose it necessary to beard the oysters4 ,,curried ,,gravy4 ,the quantity of onion1 eschalot1 or garlic used for a currie should be regulated by the taste of the persons for whom it is prepared2 the very large proportions of them which are acceptable to some eaters1 preventing others altogether from partaking of the dish4 ,slice1 and fry gently in a little good butter1 from two to six large onions 7with a bit of garlic1 and four or five eschalots1 or none of either71 when they are coloured equally of a fine yellow-brown1 lift them on to a sieve reversed to drain2 put them into a clean saucepan1 add a pint and a half of good gravy1 with a couple of ounces of rasped cocoa-nut1 or of any of the other condiments we have already specified1 which may require as much stewing as the onions 7an apple or two1 for instance71 and simmer them softly from half to three quarters of an hour1 or until the onion is sufficiently tender to be pressed through a strainer4 ,we would recommend that for a delicate currie this should always be done2 for a common one it is not necessary2 and many persons prefer to have the whole of it left in this last4 ,after the gravy has been worked through the strainer1 and again boils1 add to it from three to four dessertspoonsful of currie-powder1 and one of flour1 with as much salt as the gravy may require1 the whole mixed to a smooth batter with a small cupful of good cream4#ii ,simmer it from fifteen to twenty minutes1 and it will be ready for use4 ,lobster1 prawns1 shrimps1 maccaroni1 hard-boiled eggs1 cold calf's head1 and various other meats may be heated and served in it with advantage4 ,for all of these1 and indeed for every kind of currie1 acid of some sort should be added4 ,chili vinegar answers well when no fresh lemon-juice is at hand4 ,footnote #ii3 ,this must be added only just before the currie is dished1 when any acid fruit has been boiled in the gravy3 it may then be first blended with a small portion of arrow-root1 or flour4 ,onions1 #b to #f 7garlic1 #a clove1 or eschalots1 #d to #e1 or neither72 fried a light brown4 ,gravy1 #a-a_/b pint2 cocoa-nut1 #b oz4 7#c1 if very young73 #a_/b to #c_/d hour4 ,currie-powder1 #c to #d dessertspoonsful2 flour1 #a dessertspoonful2 salt1 as needed2 cream1 #a small cupful3 #ae to #bj minutes4 ,obs4-,in ,india1 curds are frequently added to curries1 but that may possibly be from their abounding much more than sweet cream in so hot a climate4 ,,potted ,,meats4 ,any tender and well-roasted meat1 taken free of fat1 skin1 and gristle1 as well as from the dry outsides1 will answer for potting admirably1 better indeed than that which is generally baked for the purpose1 and which is usually quite deprived of its juices by the process4 ,spiced or corned beef also is excellent when thus prepared2 and any of these will remain good a long time if mixed with cold fresh butter1 instead of that which is clarified2 but no addition that can be made to it will render the meat eatable1 unless it be thoroughly pounded2 reduced1 in fact1 to the smoothest possible paste1 free from a single lump or a morsel of unbroken fibre4 ,if rent into fragments1 instead of being quite cut through the grain in being minced1 before it is put into the mortar1 no beating will bring it to the proper state4 ,unless it be very dry1 it is better to pound it for some time before any butter is added1 and it must be long and patiently beaten after all the ingredients are mixed1 that the whole may be equally blended and well mellowed in flavour4 ,the quantity of butter required will depend upon the nature of the meat2 ham and salted beef will need a larger proportion than roast meat1 or than the breasts of poultry and game2 white fish1 from being less dry1 will require comparatively little4 ,salmon1 lobsters1 prawns1 and shrimps are all extremely good1 prepared in this way4 ,they should1 however1 be perfectly fresh when they are pounded1 and be set immediately afterwards into a very cool place4 ,for these1 and for white meats in general1 mace1 nutmeg1 and cayenne or white pepper1 are the appropriate spices4 ,a small quantity of cloves may be added to hare and other brown meat1 but allspice we would not recommend unless the taste is known to be in favour of it4 ,the following receipt for pounding ham will serve as a general one for the particular manner of proceeding4 ,,potted ,,ham4#ajj ,footnote #ajj3 ,see ,baked ,ham1 ,chapter ,,xiii41 page #beh4 7,an excellent ,receipt47 ,to be eaten in perfection this should be made with a freshly cured ham1 which1 after having been soaked for twelve hours1 should be wiped dry1 nicely trimmed1 closely wrapped in coarse paste1 and baked very tender4 ,when it comes from the oven1 remove the crust and rind1 and when the ham is perfectly cold1 take for each pound of the lean1 which should be weighed after every morsel of skin and fibre has been carefully removed1 six ounces of cold roast veal1 prepared with equal nicety4 ,mince these quite fine with an exceedingly sharp knife1 taking care to cut through the meat1 and not to tear the fibre1 as on this much of the excellence of the preparation depends4 ,next put it into a large stone or marble mortar1 and pound it to the smoothest paste with eight ounces of fresh butter1 which must be added by degrees4 ,when three parts beaten1 strew over it a teaspoonful of freshly-pounded mace1 half a large1 or the whole of a small nutmeg grated1 and the third of a teaspoonful of cayenne well mixed together4 ,it is better to limit the spice to this quantity in the first instance1 and to increase afterwards either of the three kinds to the taste of the parties to whom the meat is to be served4#aja ,we do not find half a teaspoonful of cayenne1 and nearly two teaspoonsful of mace1 more than is generally approved4 ,after the spice is added1 keep the meat often turned from the sides to the middle of the mortar1 that it may be seasoned equally in every part4 ,when perfectly pounded1 press it into small potting-pans1 and pour clarified butter#ajb over the top4 ,if kept in a cool and dry place1 this meat will remain good for a fortnight1 or more4 ,footnote #aja3 ,spice1 it must be observed1 varies so very greatly in its quality that discretion is always necessary in using it4 ,footnote #ajb3 ,this should never be poured hot on the meat3 it should be less than milk-warm when added to it4 ,lean of ham1 #a lb42 lean of roast veal1 #f oz42 fresh butter1 #h oz42 mace1 from #a to #b teaspoonsful2 #a_/b large nutmeg2 cayenne1 #a_/d to #a_/b teaspoonful4 ,obs4--,the roast veal is ordered in this receipt because the ham alone is generally too salt2 for the same reason butter1 fresh taken from the churn1 or that which is but slightly salted and quite new1 should be used for it in preference to its own fat4 ,when there is no ready-dressed veal in the house1 the best part of the neck1 roasted or stewed1 will supply the requisite quantity4 ,the remains of a cold boiled ham will answer quite well for potting1 even when a little dry4 ,,potted ,,chicken1 ,,partridge1 ,,or ,,pheasant4 ,roast the birds as for table1 but let them be thoroughly done1 for if the gravy be left in1 the meat will not keep half so well4 ,raise the flesh of the breast1 wings1 and merrythought1 quite clear from the bones1 take off the skin1 mince1 and then pound it very smoothly with about one third of its weight of fresh butter1 or something less1 if the meat should appear of a proper consistence without the full quantity2 season it with salt1 mace1 and cayenne only1 and add these in small portions until the meat is rather highly flavoured with both the last2 proceed with it as with other potted meats4 ,,potted ,,ox-,,tongue4 ,boil tender an unsmoked tongue of good flavour1 and the following day cut from it the quantity desired for potting1 or take for this purpose the remains of one which has already been served at table4 ,trim off the skin and rind1 weigh the meat1 mince it very small1 then pound it as fine as possible with four ounces of butter to each pound of tongue1 a small teaspoonful of mace1 half as much of nutmeg and cloves1 and a tolerably high seasoning of cayenne4 ,after the spices are well beaten with the meat1 taste it1 and add more if required4 ,a few ounces of any well-roasted meat mixed with the tongue will give it firmness1 in which it is apt to be deficient4 ,the breasts of turkeys1 fowls1 partridges1 or pheasants1 may be used for the purpose with good effect4 ,tongue1 #a lb42 butter1 #d oz42 mace1 #a teaspoonful2 nutmeg and cloves each1 #a_/b teaspoonful2 cayenne1 #e to #aj grains4 ,,potted ,,anchovies4 ,scrape the anchovies very clean1 raise the flesh from the bones1 and pound it to a perfect paste in a ,wedgwood or marble mortar2 then with the back of a wooden spoon press it through a hair-sieve reversed4 ,next1 weigh the anchovies1 and pound them again with double their weight of the freshest butter that can be procured1 a high seasoning of mace and cayenne1 and a small quantity of finely-grated nutmeg2 set the mixture by in a cool place for three or four hours to harden it before it is put into the potting pans4 ,if butter be poured over1 it must be only lukewarm2 but the anchovies will keep well for two or three weeks without4 ,a very small portion of rose-pink may be added to improve the colour1 but unless it be sparingly used1 it will impart a bitter flavour to the preparation4 ,the quantity of butter can be increased or diminished in proportion as it is wished that the flavour of the anchovies should prevail4 ,anchovies pounded1 #c oz42 butter1 #f oz42 mace1 third of teaspoonful2 half as much cayenne2 little nutmeg4 ,,lobster ,,butter4 7,for this see page #ach1 ,chapter ,,vi47 ,,potted ,,shrimps1 ,,or ,,prawns4 7,delicious47 ,let the fish be quite freshly boiled1 shell them quickly1 and just before they are put into the mortar1 chop them a little with a very sharp knife2 pound them perfectly with a small quantity of fresh butter1 mace1 and cayenne4 7,see also page #ib47 ,shrimps 7unshelled71 #b quarts2 butter1 #b to #d oz42 mace1 #a small saltspoonful2 cayenne1 #a_/c as much4 ,,potted ,,mushrooms4 ,the receipt for these1 which we can recommend to the reader1 will be found in the next ,chapter4 ,,moulded ,,potted ,,meat ,,or ,,fish4 7,for the second course47 ,press very closely and smoothly into a pan or mould the potted ham1 or any other meat1 of the present chapter1 pour a thin layer of clarified butter on the top1 and let it become quite cold4 ,when wanted for table1 wind round it for a moment a cloth which has been dipped into hot water1 loosen the meat gently from it with a thin knife1 turn it on to a dish1 and glaze it lightly2 lay a border of small salad round it1 with or without a decoration of hard eggs1 or surround it instead with clear savoury jelly cut in dice4 ,the meat1 for variety1 may be equally sliced1 and laid regularly round a pile of small salad4 ,a very elegant second course dish may be made with potted lobsters in this way1 the centre being ornamented with a small shape of lobster butter4 7,see page #ach47 ,,potted ,,hare4 ,illustration3 ,wedgwood ,pestle and ,mortar4 ,the back of a well-roasted hare1 and such other parts of the flesh as are not sinewy1 if potted by the directions already given for ham and other meat1 will be found superior to the game prepared as it usually is by baking it tender either with a large quantity of butter1 or with barely sufficient water or gravy to cover it2 but when the old-fashioned mode of potting is preferred1 it must be cleansed as for roasting1 wiped dry1 cut into joints1 which1 after being seasoned with salt1 cayenne 7or pepper71 and pounded cloves and mace or nutmeg well mingled1 should be closely packed in a jar or deep pan1 and slowly baked until very tender1 with the addition of from half to a whole pound of fresh butter laid equally over it1 in small bits1 or with only so much water or other liquid as will prevent its becoming hard3 the jar must be well covered with at least two separate folds of thick brown paper tied closely over it4 ,it should then be left to become perfectly cold2 and the butter 7when it has been used7 should be taken off and scraped free from moisture1 that it may be added to the hare in pounding it4 ,all skin and sinew must be carefully removed1 and the flesh minced before it is put into the mortar4 ,additional seasoning must be added if necessary2 but the cook must remember that all should be well blended1 and no particular spice should be allowed to predominate in the flavour of the preparation ,when water or gravy has been added to the hare1 firm fresh butter should be used in potting it3 it will not require a very large proportion1 as the flesh will be far less dry and firm than when it is roasted1 though more of its juices will have been withdrawn from it2 and it will not remain good so long4 ,the bones1 gravy1 head1 and ribs1 will make a small tureen of excellent soup4 ,thick slices of lean ham are sometimes baked with the hare1 and pounded with it4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,chapter ,,xvii4 ,vegetables4 ,illustration ,,the quality of vegetables depends much both on the soil in which they are grown1 and on the degree of care bestowed upon their culture2 but if produced in ever so great perfection1 their excellence will be entirely destroyed if they be badly cooked4 ,with the exception of artichokes1 which are said to be improved by two or three days' keeping1 all the summer varieties should be dressed before their first freshness has in any degree passed off 7for their flavour is never so fine as within a few hours of their being cut or gathered72 but when this cannot be done1 precaution should be taken to prevent their withering4 ,the stalk-ends of asparagus1 cucumbers1 and vegetable-marrow1 should be placed in from one to two inches of cold water2 and all other kinds should be spread on a cool brick floor4 ,when this has been neglected1 they must be thrown into cold water for some time before they are boiled to recover them1 though they will prove even then but very inferior eating4 ,vegetables when not sufficiently cooked are known to be so exceedingly unwholesome and indigestible1 that the custom of serving them crisp1 which means1 in reality1 only half-boiled1 should be altogether disregarded when health is considered of more importance than fashion2 but they should not be allowed to remain in the water after they are quite done1 or both their nutritive properties and their flavour will be lost1 and their good appearance destroyed4 ,care should be taken to drain them thoroughly in a warm strainer1 and to serve them very hot1 with well-made sauces1 if with any4 ,only dried peas or beans1 ,jerusalem artichokes1 and potatoes1 are put at first into cold water4 ,all others require plenty of fast-boiling water1 which should be ready salted and skimmed before they are thrown into it4 ,,to ,,clear ,,vegetables ,,from ,,insects4 ,lay them for half an hour or more into a pan of strong brine1 with the stalk ends uppermost2 this will destroy the small snails and other insects which cluster in the leaves1 and they will fall out and sink to the bottom4 ,a pound and a half of salt to the gallon of water will answer for this purpose1 and if strained daily it will last for some time4 ,,to ,,boil ,,vegetables ,,green4 ,after they have been properly prepared and washed1 throw them into plenty of boiling water which has been salted and well skimmed2 and keep them uncovered and boiling fast until they are done1 taking every precaution against their being smoked4 ,should the water be very hard1 a small half-teaspoonful of carbonate of soda1 may be added with the salt1 for every two quarts1 and will greatly improve the colour of the vegetables2 but if used in undue proportion it will injure them2 green peas especially will be quickly reduced to a mash if boiled with too large a quantity4 ,water1 #a gallon2 salt1 #b oz42 soda1 #a_/d oz42 or carbonate of soda1 #a teaspoonful4 ,,potatoes4 7,remarks on their properties and importance47 ,there is no vegetable commonly cultivated in this country1 we venture to assert1 which is comparable in value to the potato when it is of a good sort1 has been grown in a suitable soil1 and is properly cooked and served4 ,it must be very nutritious1 or it would not sustain the strength of thousands of people whose almost sole food it constitutes1 and who1 when they can procure a sufficient supply of it to satisfy fully the demands of hunger1 are capable of accomplishing the heaviest daily labour4 ,it may not be wise to depend for subsistence on a root of which the crop unhappily is so frequently in these days destroyed or greatly injured by disease1 and for which it is so difficult to find a substitute that is equally cheap1 wholesome and satisfying2 but we can easily comprehend the predilection of an entire people for a tuber which combines1 like the potato1 the solidity almost of bread1 with the healthful properties#ajc of various other fresh vegetables1 without their acidity2 and which can also be cooked and served in so many different forms4 ,the wretched manner in which it is dressed in many ,english houses renders it comparatively valueless1 and accounts in a measure for the prodigality with which it is thrown away when cold1 even in seasons when its price is highest4#ajd ,footnote #ajc3 ,the late ,dr4 ,pereira has stated in his excellent work on diet1 page #cgj1 that ,dr4 ,baly1 who has published some interesting observations on the anti-scorbutic quality of the potato1 says1 8,as ordinarily cooked1 it is an admirable preservative against the scurvy10 for which it appears to be also a cure1 see the same work4 ,footnote #ajd3 ,we cannot refrain from a few words of remark here on the daily waste of wholesome food in this country which constitutes one of the most serious domestic abuses that exist amongst us2 and one which it is most painful to witness while we see at the same time the half-starvation of large masses of our people4 ,it is an evil which the steady and resolute opposition of the educated classes would soon greatly check2 and which ought not vainly to appeal to their good sense and good feeling1 augmenting1 as it must1 the privations of the scantily-fed poor2 for the 8waste0 of one part of the community cannot fail to increase the 8want0 of the remainder4 ,,to ,,boil ,,potatoes4 7,as in ,ireland47 ,potatoes1 to boil well together1 should be all of the same sort1 and as nearly equal in size as may be4 ,wash off the mould1 and scrub them very clean with a hard brush1 but neither scoop nor apply a knife to them in any way1 even to clear the eyes4#aje ,rinse them well1 and arrange them compactly in a saucepan1 so that they may not lie loose in the water1 and that a small quantity may suffice to cover them4 ,pour this in cold1 and when it boils1 throw in about a large teaspoonful of salt to the quart1 and simmer the potatoes until they are nearly done1 but for the last two or three minutes let them boil rapidly4 ,when they are tender quite through1 which may be known by probing them with a fork1 pour all the water from them immediately1 lift the lid of the saucepan to allow the steam to escape1 and place them on a trivet1 high over the fire1 or by the side of it1 until the moisture has entirely evaporated2 then peel1 and send them to table as quickly as possible1 either in a hot napkin1 or in a dish1 of which the cover is so placed that the steam can pass off4 ,there should be no delay in serving them after they are once taken from the fire4 ,irish families always prefer them served in their skins4 ,some kinds will be sufficiently boiled in twenty minutes1 others in not less than three quarters of an hour4 ,footnote #aje3 8,because10 in the words of our clever ,irish correspondent1 8the water through these parts is then admitted into the very heart of the vegetable2 and the latent heat1 after cooking1 is not sufficient to throw it off2 this renders the potatoes very unwholesome40 #bj minutes to #a hour1 or more4 ,obs4 #a4--,the water in which they are boiled should barely cover the potatoes4 ,after it is poured off1 they should be steamed for twenty minutes or half an hour1 if large4 ,obs4 #b4--;,habitual potato-eaters know well that this vegetable is never so good as when served in the skin the instant it is taken from the fire1 dished in a hot napkin1 or sent to table without a cover over it4 ,it should also be clean and dry that it may at pleasure be taken in the fingers and broken like bread1 or held in the dinner napkin while the inside is scooped out with the fork1 thus forming it into a sort of cup4 ,the large ,yorkshire ,regents dressed and eaten in this way afford in themselves an almost sufficient meal4 ,we have found from long daily experience1 that those which averaged three1 or at the utmost four to the pound1 were the best in quality1 and remained so to quite the end of their season3 they required as the spring advanced1 an hour's boiling or more4 ,,to ,,boil ,,potatoes4 7,the ,lancashire way47 ,pare the potatoes1 cover them with cold water1 and boil them slowly until they are quite tender1 but watch them carefully1 that they may not be overdone2 drain off the water entirely1 strew some salt over them1 leave the saucepan uncovered by the side of the fire1 and shake it forcibly every minute or two1 until the whole of the potatoes appear dry and floury4 ,lancashire cooks dress the vegetable in this way to perfection1 but it is far from an economical mode1 as a large portion of the potato adheres to the saucepan2 it has1 however1 many admirers4 ,,to ,,boil ,,new ,,potatoes4 ,these are never good unless freshly dug4 ,take them of equal size1 and rub off the skins with a brush or a very coarse cloth1 wash them clean1 and put them without salt into boiling1 or at least1 quite hot water2 boil them softly1 and when they are tender enough to serve1 pour off the water entirely1 strew some fine salt over them1 give them a shake1 and let them stand by the fire in the saucepan for a minute2 then dish and serve them immediately4 ,some cooks throw in a small slice of fresh butter1 with the salt1 and toss them gently in it after it is dissolved4 ,this is a good mode1 but the more usual one is to send melted butter to table with them1 or to pour white sauce over them when they are very young1 and served early in the season4 ,very small1 #aj to #ae minutes3 moderate sized1 #ae to #bj minutes4 ,obs4--,we always1 for our own eating1 have new potatoes steamed for ten minutes or longer after the water is poured from them1 and think they are much improved by the process4 ,they should be thoroughly boiled before this is done4 ,,new ,,potatoes ,,in ,,butter4 ,rub off the skins1 wash the potatoes well and wipe them dry2 put them with three ounces of good butter1 for a small dish1 and with four ounces or more for a large one1 into a well-tinned stewpan or ,keep them well shaken or tossed1 that they may be equally done1 and throw in some salt when they begin to stew4 ,this is a good mode of dressing them when they are very young and watery4 ,,to ,,boil ,,potatoes4 7,captain ,kater's ,receipt47 ,wash1 wipe1 and pare the potatoes1 cover them with cold water1 and boil them gently until they are done1 pour off the water1 and sprinkle a little fine salt over them2 then take each potato separately with a spoon1 and lay it into a clean warm cloth1 twist this so as to press all the moisture from the vegetable1 and render it quite round2 turn it carefully into a dish placed before the fire1 throw a cloth over1 and when all are done1 send them to table quickly4 ,potatoes dressed in this way are mashed without the slightest trouble2 it is also by far the best method of preparing them for puddings or for cakes4 ,,to ,,roast ,,or ,,bake ,,potatoes4 ,scrub and wash exceedingly clean some potatoes nearly assorted in size2 wipe them very dry1 and roast them in a ,dutch oven before the fire1 placing them at a distance from it1 and keeping them often turned2 or arrange them in a coarse dish1 and bake them in a moderate oven4 ,dish them neatly in a napkin1 and send them very hot to table2 serve cold butter with them4 #a-c_/d to upwards of #b hours4 ,,scooped ,,potatoes4 7,,entremets4#ajf7 ,footnote #ajf3 ,or second course dish4 ,illustration ,wash and wipe some large potatoes of a firm kind1 and with a small scoop adapted to the purpose1#ajg form as many diminutive ones as will fill a dish2 cover them with cold water1 and when they have boiled very gently for five minutes pour it off1 and put more cold water to them2 after they have simmered a second time for five minutes1 drain the water quite away1 place the cover of the saucepan so as to leave an inch or more of open space for the moisture to evaporate1 and let them steam by the side of the fire from four to five minutes longer4 ,dish them carefully1 pour white sauce over them1 and serve them in the second course4 ,old potatoes thus prepared1 have often been made to pass for new ones1 at the best tables1 at the season in which the fresh vegetable was dearest4#ajh ,the time required to boil them will of course vary with their quality2 we give the method which we have found very successful4 ,footnote #ajg3 ,this may be procured of any ironmonger4 ,footnote #ajh3 ,vegetables and fruit are now so generally forced and brought so early into our markets1 that there is little need of these expedients at present4 ,,crisped ,,potatoes1 ,,or ,,potato-,,ribbons4 7,,entremets47 7,or to serve with ,cheese47 ,wash well1 and wipe1 some potatoes of good flavour2 cut them up into slices of from half to a whole inch thick1 free them from the skins1 and then pare them round and round in very thin1 and very long ribbons4 ,lay them into a pan of cold water1 and half an hour before they are wanted for table lift them on to a sieve that they may be well drained4 ,fry them in good butter1 which should be very hot when they are thrown in1 until they are quite crisp1 and lightly browned2 drain and dry them on a soft cloth1 pile them in a hot dish1 strew over them a mixed seasoning of salt and cayenne in fine powder1 and serve them without delay4 ,for the second course1 dress them in the same manner1 but omit the cayenne4 ,five or six minutes will fry them4 ,,fried ,,potatoes4 7,,entremets47 7,a ,plainer ,receipt47 ,after having washed them1 wipe and pare some raw potatoes1 cut them in slices of equal thickness1 or into thin shavings1 and throw them into plenty of boiling butter1 or very pure clarified dripping4 ,fry them of a fine light brown1 and very crisp2 lift them out with a skimmer1 drain them on a soft warm cloth1 dish them very hot1 and sprinkle fine salt over them4 ,this is an admirable way of dressing potatoes1 very common on the ,continent1 but less so in ,england than it deserves to be4 ,pared in ribbons or shavings of equal width1 as in the receipt above1 and served dry and well fried1 lightly piled in a dish1 they make a handsome appearance1 and are excellent eating4 ,if sliced they should be something less than a quarter of an inch thick4 ,,mashed ,,potatoes4 ,boil them perfectly tender quite through1 pour off the water1 and steam them very dry by the directions already given in the receipt of page #caj1 peel them quickly1 take out every speck1 and while they are still hot1 press the potatoes through an earthen cullender1 or bruise them to a smooth mash with a strong wooden fork or spoon1 but never pound them in a mortar1 as that will reduce them to a close heavy paste4 ,let them be entirely free from lumps1 for nothing can be more indicative of carelessness or want of skill on the part of the cook1 than mashed potatoes sent to table full of these4 ,melt in a clean saucepan a slice of good butter with a few spoonsful of milk1 or1 better still1 of cream2 put in the potatoes after having sprinkled some fine salt upon them1 and stir the whole over a gentle fire with a wooden spoon1 until the ingredients are well-mixed1 and the whole is very hot4 ,it may then be served directly2 or heaped high in a dish1 left rough on the surface1 and browned before the fire2 or it may be pressed into a well buttered mould of handsome form1 which has been strewed with the finest bread-crumbs1 and shaken free from the loose ones1 then turned out1 and browned in a ,dutch or common oven4 ,more or less liquid will be required to moisten sufficiently potatoes of various kinds4 ,potatoes mashed1 #b lbs42 salt1 #a teaspoonful2 butter1 #a to #b oz42 milk or cream1 #a_/d pint4 ,obs4--,mashed potatoes are often moulded with a cup1 and then equally browned3 any other shape will answer the purpose as well1 and many are of better appearance4 ,,english ,,potato ,,balls1 ,,or ,,croquettes4 ,boil some floury potatoes very dry1 mash them as smoothly as possible1 season them well with salt and white pepper1 warm them with about an ounce of butter to the pound1 or rather more if it will not render them too moist1 and a few spoonsful of good cream4 ,boil them very dry2 let them cool a little1 roll them into balls1 sprinkle over them vermicelli crushed slightly with the hand1 and fry them a fine light brown4 ,they may be dished round a shape of plain mashed potatoes1 or piled on a napkin by themselves4 ,they may likewise be rolled in egg and fine bread-crumbs instead of in the vermicelli1 or in ground rice1 which answers very well for them4 ,,potato ,,boulettes4 7,,entremets47 7,good47 ,boil some good potatoes as dry as possible1 or let them be prepared by ,captain ,kater's receipt2 mash a pound of them very smoothly1 and mix with them while they are still warm1 two ounces of fresh butter1 a teaspoonful of salt1 a little nutmeg1 the beaten and strained yolks of four eggs1 and last of all the whites thoroughly whisked4 ,mould the mixture with a teaspoon and drop it into a small pan of boiling butter1 or of very pure lard1 and fry the boulettes for five minutes over a moderate fire3 they should be of a fine pale brown1 and very light4 ,drain them well and dish them on a hot napkin4 ,potatoes1 #a lb42 butter1 #b oz42 salt1 #a teaspoonful2 eggs1 #d3 #e minutes4 ,obs4--,these boulettes are exceeding light and delicate1 and make an excellent dish for the second course2 but we think that a few spoonsful of sweet fresh cream boiled with them until the mixture becomes dry1 would both enrich them and improve their flavour4 ,they should be dropped into the pan with the teaspoon1 as they ought to be small1 and they will swell in the cooking4 ,,potato ,,rissoles4 7,french47 ,mash and season the potatoes with salt1 and white pepper or cayenne1 and mix with them plenty of minced parsley1 and a small quantity of green onions1 or eschalots2 add sufficient yolks of eggs to bind the mixture together1 roll it into small balls1 and fry them in plenty of lard or butter over a moderate fire1 or they will be too much browned before they are done through4 ,ham1 or any other kind of meat finely minced1 may be substituted for the herbs1 or added to them4 ,,potatoes ,,la ,,ma,,tre ,d',h,,tel4 ,boil in the usual manner some potatoes of a firm kind1 peel1 and let them cool2 then cut them equally into quarter-inch slices4 ,dissolve in a very clean stewpan or saucepan from two to four ounces of good butter1 stir to it a small dessertspoonful of flour1 and shake the pan over the fire for two or three minutes2 add by slow degrees a small cupful of boiling water1 some pepper1 salt1 and a tablespoonful of minced parsley2 put in the potatoes1 and toss them gently over a clear fire until they are quite hot1 and the sauce adheres well to them3 at the instant of serving add a dessertspoonful of strained lemon-juice4 ,pale veal gravy may be substituted for the water2 and the potatoes after being thickly sliced1 may be quickly cut of the same size with a small round cutter4 ,,potatoes ,,la ,,cr,,me4 ,prepare the potatoes as above1 and toss them gently in a quarter of a pint or more of thick white sauce or of common bechamel1 with or without the addition of the minced parsley4 ,,kohl ,,cannon1 ,,or ,,kale ,,cannon4 7,an ,irish ,receipt47 ,mix in about equal proportions 7these can be varied to suit the convenience of the moment7 some smoothly mashed potatoes1 and some young sprouts or greens of any kind1 first boiled quite tender1 pressed very dry1 and chopped a little if needful4 ,mash up the whole well together1 add a seasoning of pepper and salt1 a small bit of butter1 and a spoonful or two of cream or milk2 put a raw onion into the middle of the mass1 and stir it over a clear fire until it is very hot1 and sufficiently dry to be moulded and turned out for table1 or dished in the usual manner4 ,take out the onion before the kohl cannon is served4 ,in ,ireland mashed parsneps and potatoes are mingled in the same way1 and called parsnep cannon4 ,a good summer variety of the preparation is made there also with ,windsor beans boiled tender1 skinned1 and bruised to a paste1 then thoroughly blended with the potatoes4 ,turnips1 too1 are sometimes substituted for the parsneps2 but these or any other watery vegetable should be well dried over a gentle fire as directed for mashed turnips in this chapter1 before they are added to the potatoes4 ,,to ,,boil ,,sea-,,kale4 ,wash1 trim1 and tie the kale in bunches1 and throw it into plenty of boiling water with some salt in it4 ,when it is perfectly tender1 lift it out1 drain it well from the water1 and send it to table with good melted butter4 ,when fashion is not particularly regarded we would recommend its being served upon a toast like asparagus4 ,about twenty minutes will boil it1 rather less for persons who like it crisp4 #ah to #bj minutes4 ,,sea-,,kale ,,stewed ,,in ,,gravy4 7,,entremets47 ,boil the kale for ten minutes in salt and water2 drain it well1 and put it into a saucepan with as much good brown gravy as will nearly cover it2 stew it gently for ten minutes or until it is tender1 and send it to table in the gravy very hot4 ,another excellent mode of serving this vegetable is1 to boil it in salt and water1 and to pour over it plenty of rich white sauce after it is dished4 ,,spinach4 7,,entremets47 7,french ,receipt47 ,pick the spinach leaf by leaf from the stems1 and wash it in abundance of spring water1 changing it several times2 then shake it in a dry cloth held by the four corners1 or drain it on a large sieve4 ,throw it into sufficient well-salted boiling water to allow it to float freely1 and keep it pressed down with a skimmer that it may be equally done4 ,when quite young it will be tender in from eight to ten minutes1 but to ascertain if it be so1 take a leaf and squeeze it between the fingers4 ,if to be dressed in the ,french mode1 drain1 and then throw it directly into plenty of fresh water1 and when it is cool form it into balls and press the moisture thoroughly from it with the hands4 ,next1 chop it extremely fine upon a clean trencher2 put two ounces 7for a large dish7 of butter into a stewpan or bright thick saucepan1 lay the spinach on it1 and keep it stirred over a gentle fire for ten minutes1 or until it appears dry2 dredge in a spoonful of flour1 and turn the spinach as it is added2 pour to it gradually1 a few spoonsful of very rich veal gravy1 or1 if preferred1 of good boiling cream 7with the last of these a dessertspoonful or more of pounded sugar may be added for a second-course dish1 when the true ,french mode of dressing the vegetable is liked47 ,stew the whole briskly until the liquid is entirely absorbed2 dish1 and serve the spinach very hot1 with small1 pale fried sippets round it1 or with leaves of puff paste fresh from the oven1 or well dried after having been fried4 ,for ornament1 the sippets may be fancifully shaped with a tin cutter4 ,a proper seasoning of salt must not be omitted in this1 or any other preparation of the spinach4 ,,spinach ,a ,l',,anglaise4 7,,entremets47 7,or1 ,english fashion47 ,boil the spinach as already directed1 and after it has been well squeezed and chopped1 stir it over a moderate fire until it is very dry2 moisten it with as much thick rich gravy as will flavour it well1 and turn and stew it quite fast until it is again very dry2 then press it into a hot mould of handsome form1 turn it into a dish and serve it quickly4 ,two or three ounces of fresh butter may be laid into the saucepan with the spinach at first1 as a substitute for the gravy4 ,when a perforated tin shape1 ordinarily used for moulding spinach1 is not at hand1 one of earthenware1 slightly buttered1 will serve nearly as well4 ,,spinach4 7,common ,english mode47 ,boil the spinach very green in plenty of water1 drain1 and then press the moisture from it between two trenchers2 chop it small1 put it into a clean saucepan1 with a slice of fresh butter1 and stir the whole until well mixed and very hot4 ,smooth it in a dish1 mark it in dice1 and send it quickly to table4 ,,another ,,common ,,english ,,receipt ,,for ,,spinach4 ,take it leaf by leaf from the stalks1 and be very careful to clear it from any weeds that may be amongst it1 and to free it by copious and repeated washings from every particle of sand1 or earth4 ,put it into a large well-tinned stewpan or saucepan1 with the water only which hangs about it2 throw in a small spoonful of salt1 and keep it constantly pressed down with a wooden spoon1 and turned often for about a quarter of an hour1 or until it is perfectly tender4 ,drain off the superfluous moisture1 chop the spinach quickly on a hot trencher2 dish and serve it immediately4 ,fried sippets of bread should always be served round this vegetable1 unless it be prepared for an invalid4 ,,to ,,dress ,,dandelions ,,like ,,spinach1 ,,or ,,as ,a ,,salad4 7,very wholesome47 ,this common weed of the fields and highways is an excellent vegetable1 the young leaves forming an admirable adjunct to a salad1 and much resembling endive when boiled and prepared in the same way1 or in any of the modes directed for spinach4 ,the slight bitterness of its flavour is to many persons very agreeable2 and it is often served at well-appointed tables4 ,it has also1 we believe1 the advantage of possessing valuable medicinal qualities4 ,take the roots before the blossom is at all advanced1 if they can readily be found in that state2 if not1 pluck off and use the young leaves only4 ,wash them as clean as possible1 and boil them tender in a large quantity of water salted as for sprouts or spinach4 ,drain them well1 press them dry with a wooden spoon1 and serve them quite plain with melted butter in a tureen2 or1 squeeze1 chop1 and heat them afresh1 with a seasoning of salt and pepper1 a morsel of butter rolled in flour1 and a spoonful or two of gravy or cream4 ,a very large portion of the leaves will be required for a dish1 as they shrink exceedingly in the cooking4 ,for a salad1 take them very young and serve them entire1 or break them quite small with the fingers2 then wash and drain them4 ,dress them with oil and vinegar1 or with any other sauce which may be preferred with them4 ,,boiled ,,turnip-,,radishes4 ,these should be freshly drawn1 young and white4 ,wash and trim them neatly1 leaving on two or three of the small inner leaves of the top4 ,boil them in plenty of salted water from twenty to thirty minutes1 and as soon as they are tender send them to table well drained1 with melted butter or white sauce4 ,common radishes when young1 tied in bunches1 and boiled from eighteen to twenty-five minutes1 then served on a toast like asparagus1 are very good4 ,,boiled ,,leeks4 ,trim off the coarser leaves from some young leeks1 cut them into equal lengths1 tie them into small bunches1 and boil them in plenty of water which has been previously salted and skimmed2 serve them on a toast1 and send melted butter to table with them4 #bj to #be minutes4 ,,stewed ,,lettuces4 ,strip off the outer leaves1 and cut away the stalks2 wash the lettuces with exceeding nicety1 and throw them into water salted as for all green vegetables4 ,when they are quite tender1 which will be in from twenty to thirty minutes1 according to their age1 lift them out and press the water thoroughly from them2 chop them a little1 and heat them in a clean saucepan with a seasoning of pepper and salt1 and a small slice of butter2 then dredge in a little flour and stir them well2 add next a small cup of broth or gravy1 boil them quickly until they are tolerably dry1 then stir in a little pale vinegar or lemon-juice1 and serve them as hot as possible1 with fried sippets round them4 ,,to ,,boil ,,asparagus4 ,with a sharp knife scrape the stems of the asparagus lightly but very clean1 from within one to two inches of the green tender points2 throw them into cold water as they are done1 and when all are ready1 tie them in bunches of equal size1 cut the large ends evenly1 that the asparagus may be all of the same length1 and put it into plenty of boiling water prepared by the directions of page #cji4 ,cut a round of bread quite half an inch thick1 and after having pared off the crust1 toast it a delicate brown on both sides4 ,when the stalks of the asparagus are tender1 lift it out directly1 or it will lose both its colour and its flavour1 and will also be liable to break2 dip the toast quickly into the water in which it was boiled1 and dish the vegetable upon it1 with the points meeting in the centre4 ,send rich melted butter to table with it4 ,in ,france1 a small quantity of vinegar is stirred into the sauce before it is served2 and many persons like the addition4 ,asparagus may be preserved for a day or two sufficiently fresh for use1 by keeping the stalks immersed in an inch-depth of cold water2 but it is never so good as when dressed directly it is cut1 or within a few hours after4 #bj to #be minutes4 ,obs4--,abroad1 boiled asparagus is very frequently served cold1 and eaten with oil and vinegar1 or a sauce ,mayonnaise4 ,,asparagus ,,points ,,dressed ,,like ,,peas4 7,,entremets47 ,this is a convenient mode of dressing asparagus1 when it is too small and green to make a good appearance plainly boiled4 ,cut the points so far only as they are perfectly tender1 in bits of equal size1 not more than the third of an inch in length2 wash them very clean1 and throw them into plenty of boiling water1 with the usual quantity of salt and a few grains of carbonate of soda4 ,when they are tolerably tender1 which will be in from ten to twelve minutes1 drain them well1 and spread them on a clean cloth2 fold it over them1 wipe them gently1 and when they are quite dry put them into a clean stewpan with a good slice of butter1 which should be just dissolved before the asparagus is added2 stew them in this over a brisk fire1 shaking them often1 for eight or ten minutes2 dredge in about a small teaspoonful of flour1 and add half that quantity of white sugar2 then pour in boiling water to nearly cover the asparagus1 and boil it rapidly until but little liquid remains3 stir in the beaten yolks of two eggs1 heap the asparagus high in a dish1 and serve it very hot4 ,the sauce should adhere entirely to the vegetable as in green peas la ,franaise4 ,,to ,,boil ,,green ,,peas4 ,to be eaten in perfection these should be young1 very freshly gathered1 and shelled just before they are boiled2 should there be great inequality in their size1 the smaller ones may be separated from the others1 and thrown into the saucepan four or five minutes later4 ,wash1 and drain the peas in a cullender1 put them into plenty of fast-boiling water1 salted by the directions of page #cji2 keep the pan uncovered1 and let them boil rapidly until they are tender2 drain them well1 dish them quickly1 and serve them very hot1 with good melted butter in a tureen2 or put a slice of fresh butter into the midst of the peas1 heap them well over it in the centre of the dish1 and let it dissolve before they are disturbed4 ,never1 on any account1 boil or mix mint with them unless it be expressly ordered1 as it is particularly distasteful to many persons4 ,it should be served in small heaps round them1 if at all4 #ae to #be minutes1 or more if old4 ,,green ,,peas ,,la ,,fran,,aise1 ,,or ,,french ,,fashion4 7,,entremets74 ,throw a quart of young and freshly-shelled peas into plenty of spring water with a couple of ounces of butter1 and with the hand work them together until the butter adheres well to the peas2 lift them out1 and drain them in a cullender2 put them into a stewpan or thick saucepan without any water1 and let them remain over a gentle fire1 and be stirred occasionally for twenty minutes from the time of their first beginning to simmer2 then pour to them as much boiling water as will just cover them2 throw in a small quantity of salt1 and keep them boiling quickly for forty minutes3 stir well amongst them a small lump of sugar which has been dipped quickly into water1 and a thickening of about half an ounce of butter very smoothly mixed with a teaspoonful of flour2 shake them over the fire for two minutes1 and serve them directly heaped high in a very hot dish2 there will be no sauce except that which adheres to the peas if they be properly managed4 ,we have found marrowfats excellent1 dressed by this receipt4 ,fresh and good butter should be used with them always4 ,peas1 #a quart2 butter1 #b oz43 #bj minutes4 ,water to cover the peas2 little salt3 #dj minutes4 ,sugar1 small lump2 butter1 #a_/b oz42 flour1 #a teaspoonful3 #b minutes4 ,,green ,,peas ,,with ,,cream4 7,,entremets47 ,boil a quart of young peas perfectly tender in salt and water1 and drain them as dry as possible4 ,dissolve an ounce and a half of butter in a clean stewpan1 stir smoothly to it when it boils a dessertspoonful of flour1 and shake these over the fire for three or four minutes1 but without allowing them to take the slightest colour2 pour gradually to them a cup of rich cream1 add a small lump of sugar pounded1 let the sauce boil1 then put in the peas and toss them gently in it until they are very hot3 dish1 and serve them quickly4 ,peas1 #a quart3 #ah to #be minutes4 ,butter1 #a-a_/b oz42 flour1 #a dessertspoonful3 #c to #e minutes4 ,sugar1 #a saltspoonful2 cream1 #a cupful4 ,,to ,,boil ,,french ,,beans4 ,when the beans are very small and young1 merely take off the ends and stalks1 and drop them into plenty of spring water as they are done2 when all are ready wash and drain them well1 throw them into a large saucepan of fast-boiling water1 salted as usual 7see page #cji71 and when they are quite tender1 which will be in from twelve to eighteen minutes1 pour them into a cullender1 shake the water from them1 dish1 and send them quickly to table with good melted butter in a tureen4 ,when from half to two parts grown1 cut the beans obliquely into a lozenge form1 or1 when a less modern fashion is preferred1 split them lengthwise into delicate strips1 and then cut them once across3 the strings should be drawn off with the tops and stalks4 ,no mode of dressing it can render this vegetable good when it is old1 but if the sides be pared off1 the beans cut thin1 and boiled tender with rather more than the ordinary proportion of soda1 they will be of excellent colour1 and tolerably eatable4 ,,french ,,beans ,,la ,,fran,,aise4 7,,entremets47 ,boil1 and drain them thoroughly2 then put them into a clean stewpan1 or well-tinned iron saucepan1 and shake them over the fire until they are very dry and hot2 add to them from two to four ounces of fresh butter cut into small bits1 some white pepper1 a little salt1 and the juice of half a lemon2 toss them gently for a few minutes over a clear fire1 and serve them very hot4 ,should the butter turn to oil1 a spoonful or two of veal gravy or boiling water must be added4 ,,an ,,excellent ,,receipt ,,for ,,french ,,beans ,,la ,,fran,,aise4 ,prepare as many young and freshly-gathered beans as will serve for a large dish1 boil them tender1 and drain the water well from them4 ,melt a couple of ounces of fresh butter1 in a clean saucepan1 and stir smoothly to it a small dessertspoonful of flour2 keep these well shaken1 and gently simmered until they are lightly browned1 add salt and pepper1 and pour to them by degrees a small cupful of good veal gravy 7or1 in lieu of this1 of sweet rich cream71 toss the beans in the sauce until they are as hot as possible2 stir quickly in1 as they are taken from the fire1 the beaten yolks of two fresh eggs1 and a little lemon-juice1 and serve them without delay4 ,the eggs and lemon are sometimes omitted1 and a tablespoonful of minced parsley is added to the butter and flour2 but this1 we think1 is scarcely an improvement4 ,beans1 #a to #b quarts3 boiled #ae to #bj minutes4 ,butter1 #b oz42 flour1 #a dessertspoonful2 salt and pepper2 veal gravy1 small cupful2 yolks of eggs1 #b2 lemon-juice1 a dessertspoonful4 ,,to ,,boil ,,windsor ,,beans4 ,when young1 freshly gathered1 and well dressed1 these beans1 even with many persons accustomed to a luxurious table1 are a favourite accompaniment to a dish of streaked bacon1 or delicate pickled pork4 ,shell them only just before they are wanted1 then wash1 drain1 and throw them into boiling water1 salted as for peas4 ,when they are quite tender1 pour them into a hot cullender1 drain them thoroughly1 and send them to table quickly1 with a tureen of parsley and butter1 or with plain melted butter1 when it is preferred4 ,a boiled cheek of bacon1 trimmed free of any blackened parts1 may be dished over the beans1 upon occasion4 #bj to #cj minutes2 less1 when very young4 ,obs4--,when the skin of the beans appears wrinkled1 they will generally be found sufficiently tender to serve1 but they should be tasted to ascertain that they are so4 ,this vegetable is often skinned after it is boiled1 and then gently tossed up with a little butter before it is dished4 ,,dressed ,,cucumbers4 ,pare and slice them very thin1 strew a little fine salt over them1 and when they have stood a few minutes1 drain off the water1 by raising one side of the dish1 and letting it flow to the other2 pour it away1 strew more salt1 and a moderate seasoning of pepper on them1 add two or three tablespoonsful of the purest salad-oil1 and turn the cucumbers well1 that the whole may receive a portion of it2 then pour over them from one to three dessertspoonsful of chili vinegar1 and a little common1 should it be needed2 turn them into a clean dish and serve them4 ,obs4--,if very young1 cucumbers are usually dressed without being pared1 but the tough rind of full-grown ones being extremely indigestible1 should be avoided4 ,the vegetable1 though apt to disagree with persons of delicate habit1 when sauced in the common ,english mode1 with salt1 pepper1 and vinegar only1 may often be eaten by them with impunity when dressed with plenty of oil4 ,it is difficult to obtain this perfectly fresh and pure here2 and hence1 perhaps1 arises in part the prejudice which1 amongst us1 is so often found to exist against the use of this most wholesome condiment4 ,,mandrang1 ,,or ,,mandram4 7,west ,indian ,receipt47 ,chop together very small1 two moderate-sized cucumbers1 with half the quantity of mild onion2 add the juice of a lemon1 a saltspoonful or more of salt1 a third as much of cayenne1 and one or two glasses of ,madeira1 or of any other dry white wine4 ,this preparation is to be served with any kind of roast meat4 ,,another ,,receipt ,,for ,,mandram4 ,take three or four cucumbers1 so young as not to require paring2 score the ends well1 that when they are sliced they may fall into small bits2 add plenty of young onions1 cut fine1 the juice of half a lemon1 a glass of sherry or ,madeira1 and a dessertspoonful of chili vinegar4 ,,dressed ,,cucumbers4 7,author's ,receipt47 ,cut into lengths of an inch or rather more1 one or two freshly gathered cucumbers1 take off the rind1 and then pare them round and round into thin ribbons1 until the watery part is reached3--this is to be thrown aside4 ,when all are done1 sprinkle them with cayenne and fine salt1 and leave them to drain a little2 then arrange them lightly in a clean dish1 and sauce them with very fine oil1 well mixed with chili vinegar1 or with equal parts of chili and of common vinegar4 ,cucumbers1 #b or #c2 salt1 #a to #b saltspoonsful2 little cayenne2 oil1 #f to #h tablespoonsful2 chili vinegar1 or equal parts of this and common vinegar1 #b to #d tablespoonsful4 ,obs4--,when the flavour of eschalots is much liked1 a teaspoonful or more of the vinegar in which they have been steeped or pickled may be added to this dish4 ,,stewed ,,cucumbers4 7,english mode47 ,pare1 and split into quarters1 four or five full-grown but still young cucumbers2 take out the seeds and cut each part in two2 sprinkle them with white pepper or cayenne2 flour and fry them lightly in a little butter1 lift them from the pan1 drain them on a sieve1 then lay them into as much good brown gravy as will nearly cover them1 and stew them gently from twenty-five to thirty minutes1 or until they are quite tender4 ,should the gravy require to be thickened or flavoured1 dish the cucumbers and keep them hot while a little flour and butter1 or any other of the usual ingredients1 is stirred into it4 ,some persons like a small portion of lemon-juice1 or of chili vinegar added to the sauce2 cucumber vinegar might be substituted for these with very good effect1 as the vegetable loses much of its fine and peculiar flavour when cooked4 #be to #cj minutes4 ,obs4--,the cucumbers may be left in entire lengths1 thrown into well-salted boiling water1 and simmered for ten minutes1 then thoroughly drained upon the back of a sieve1 and afterwards stewed very quickly until tender in some highly-flavoured brown gravy1 or in the ,spanish sauce of page #aja4 ,,cucumbers ,,la ,,poulette4 ,the cucumbers for this dish may be pared and sliced very thin2 or quartered1 freed from the seeds1 and cut into half-inch lengths2 in either case they should be steeped in a little vinegar and sprinkled with salt for half an hour before they are dressed4 ,drain1 and then press them dry in a soft cloth2 flour them well1 put a slice of butter into a stewpan or saucepan bright in the inside1 and when it begins to boil throw in the cucumbers1 and shake them over a gentle fire for ten minutes1 but be careful to prevent their taking the slightest colour2 pour to them gradually as much strong1 but very pale veal stock or gravy as will nearly cover them2 when it boils skim off the fat entirely1 add salt and white pepper if needed1 and when the cucumbers are quite tender1 strew in a large teaspoonful of finely-minced parsley1 and thicken the sauce with the yolks of two or three eggs4 ,french cooks add the flour when the vegetable has stewed in the butter1 instead of dredging it upon them at first1 and this is perhaps the better method4 ,,cucumbers ,,la ,,cr,,me4 ,boil them tolerably tender in salt and water1 drain them well1 then stew them for a few minutes in a thick bchamel1 and serve them in it4 ,,fried ,,cucumbers ,,to ,,serve ,,in ,,common ,,hashes ,,and ,,minces4 ,if very young they need not be pared1 but otherwise1 take off the rind1 slice1 and dredge them lightly with pepper and flour1 but put no salt at first2 throw them into very hot butter or clarified dripping1 or they will not brown2 when they are nearly done sprinkle some salt amongst them1 and as soon as they are quite tender1 lift them out with a slice1 drain them well1 and place them lightly over the hash or mince4 ,a small portion of onion may be fried with them when it is liked4 ,,melon4 ,this in ,france and in other parts of the ,continent is served and eaten with the bouilli 7or beef boiled tender in the soup-pot71 with a seasoning of salt and pepper only2 but the fruit is there far more abundant1 and of infinitely finer growth than with us1 and requires so little care1 comparatively1 that it is planted in many places in the open fields1 where it flourishes admirably4 ,,to ,,boil ,,cauliflowers4 ,trim off the outside leaves1 and cut the stems quite close to the cauliflowers2 let them lie for an hour in plenty of cold water with a handful of salt in it1 to draw out any insects that may be amongst them2 then wash them very thoroughly1 and examine them well1 to be assured that none remain in any part of them2 throw them into a large pan of boiling water salted as for asparagus1 and quite cleared from scum2 for this1 if not removed1 will adhere to the cauliflowers and spoil their appearance4 ,when the stalks are tender lift them out1 dish them neatly1 and send good melted butter to table with them4 #bj to #cj minutes4 ,,cauliflowers4 7,french ,receipt47 ,cut the cauliflowers into small handsome tufts1 and boil them until three parts done1 drain them well1 toss them for a moment in some thick melted butter or white sauce1 and set them by to cool4 ,when they are quite cold1 dip them separately into the batter of ,chapter ,v41 fry them a light brown1 arrange them neatly in a dish1 and serve them very hot4 ,,cauliflowers ,,with ,,parmesan ,,cheese4 ,take all the green leaves from two or three fine white cauliflowers1 and cut the stalks off very closely1 so that they will stand upright in the dish in which they are served2 boil them tolerably tender1 but not sufficiently so as to hazard their breaking2 drain them well1 and dish them1 so as to give the whole the appearance of one cauliflower2 pour a little good white sauce equally over the tops1 and on this strew grated ,parmesan cheese1 drop over it a little clarified butter1 add another layer of cheese1 and cover the whole with the finest bread-crumbs2 moisten these with more clarified butter1 and brown them with a salamander1 or set the dish into the oven1 to give them colour2 pour white sauce round the cauliflowers1 and send them very hot to table4 ,,cauliflowers ,,la ,,fran,,aise4 ,strip away all the green leaves1 and divide each cauliflower into three or four parts1 trimming the stalks quite close2 put them1 with the heads downwards1 into a stewpan which will just hold them1 half filled with boiling water1 into which an ounce of good butter and some salt have previously been thrown2 so soon as they are quite tender1 drain the water from them1 place a dish over the stewpan and turn it gently upside down2 arrange the vegetables neatly in the form of one large cauliflower and cover it with good melted butter1 into which a little lemon-juice has been stirred4 #ab to #ah minutes4 ,,broccoli4 ,this is boiled1 and served in the same manner as cauliflowers when the heads are large2 the stems of the branching broccoli are peeled1 and the vegetable1 tied in bunches1 is dressed and served1 like asparagus1 upon a toast4 #aj to #bj minutes4 ,,to ,,boil ,,artichokes4 ,after they have been soaked and well washed1 cut off the stems quite close1 trim away a few of the lower leaves1 and clip the points of all2 throw the artichokes into plenty of fast-boiling water1 ready salted and skimmed1 with the addition of the proportion of soda directed in page #cji1 as this will greatly improve the colour of the vegetable4 ,when extremely young1 the artichokes will be tender in from half to three quarters of an hour1 but they will require more than double that time when at their full growth3 when the leaves can be drawn out easily they are done4 ,send good melted butter to table with them4 ,they should be boiled always with the stalk-ends uppermost4 ,very young1 #a_/b to #c_/d hour2 full-grown1 #a-a_/d to #b hours4 ,obs4--,french cooks lift the tops from the artichokes before they are served1 and replace them after having taken out the chokes3 this is an excellent plan1 but it must be expeditiously done to prevent the vegetable from cooling4 ,,for ,,artichokes ,,en ,,salade 7,see ,chapter ,,vi47 ,,vegetable ,,marrow4 ,it is customary to gather this when not larger than a turkey's egg1 but we should say that the vegetable is not then in its perfection4 ,the flesh is whiter and of better flavour when the gourd is about six inches long2 at least we have found it so with the kinds which have fallen under our observation4 ,it may either be boiled in the skin1 then pared1 halved1 and served upon a toast2 or quartered1 freed from the seed1 and left until cold1 then dipped into egg and fine crumbs of bread1 and fried2 or it may be cut into dice1 and re-heated in a little good white sauce2 or stewed tender in butter1 and served in well-thickened veal gravy1 flavoured with a little lemon-juice4 ,it may likewise be mashed by the receipt which we have given for turnips1 and in that form will be found excellent4 ,the ,french make a fanciful dish of the marrows thus3 they boil them tender in water1 and halve them lengthwise as is usual1 they then slice a small bit off each to make them stand evenly in the dish1 and after having hollowed the insides1 so as to leave a mere shell1 about half an inch thick1 they fill them with a thick rich mince of white meat1 and pour white sauce round them2 or they heap fried bread-crumbs over the tops1 place the dish in the oven for a few minutes1 and serve them without sauce4 ,size of turkey's egg1 #aj to #ae minutes2 moderate-sized1 #bj to #cj2 large1 #c_/d to #a hour4 ,,roast ,,tomatas4 7,to serve with roast leg1 loin1 or shoulder of mutton47 ,select them nearly of the same size1 take off the stalks1 and roast them gently in a ,dutch oven1 or if more convenient1 place them at the edge of the dripping-pan1 taking care that no fat from the joint shall fall upon them1 and keeping them turned that they may be equally done4 ,from ten to fourteen minutes will roast them4 ,,stewed ,,tomatas4 ,arrange them in a single layer1 and pour to them as much gravy as will reach to half their height2 stew them very softly until the under sides are done1 then turn1 and finish stewing them4 ,thicken the gravy with a little arrow-root and cream1 or with flour and butter1 and serve it round them4 ,,forced ,,tomatas4 7,english ,receipt47 ,cut the stems quite close1 slice off the tops of eight fine tomatas1 and scoop out the insides2 press the pulp through a sieve1 and mix with it one ounce of fine crumbs of bread1 one of butter broken very small1 some pepper or cayenne1 and salt4 ,fill the tomatas with the mixture1 and bake them for ten minutes in a moderate oven2 serve them with brown gravy in the dish4 ,a few small mushrooms stewed tender in a little butter1 then minced and added to the tomata pulp1 will very much improve this receipt4 ,bake #aj minutes4 ,,forced ,,tomatas4 7,french ,receipt47 ,let the tomatas be well shaped and of equal size2 divide them nearly in the middle leaving the blossom-side the largest1 as this only is to be used2 empty them carefully of their seeds and juice1 and fill them with the following ingredients1 which must previously be stewed tender in butter but without being allowed to brown3 minced mushrooms and shalots1 with a moderate proportion of parsley1 some lean of ham chopped small1 a seasoning of cayenne1 and a little fine salt1 if needed2 let them cool1 then mix with them about a third as much of fine crumbs of bread1 and two yolks of eggs2 fill the tomatas1 cover them with fine crumbs1 moisten them with clarified butter1 and bake them in a brisk oven until they are well coloured4 ,serve them as a garnish to stewed rump or sirloin of beef1 or to a boned and forced leg of mutton4 ,minced lean of ham1 #b oz42 mushrooms1 #b oz42 bread-crumbs1 #b oz42 shalots1 #d to #h2 parsley1 full teaspoonful2 cayenne1 quarter saltspoonful2 little salt1 if needed2 butter1 #b oz42 yolks of eggs1 #b to #c3 baked #aj to #bj minutes4 ,obs4--,the ,french pound the whole of these ingredients with a bit of garlic1 before they fill the tomatas with them1 but this is not absolutely necessary1 and the garlic1 if added at all1 should be parboiled first1 as its strong flavour1 combined with that of the eschalots1 would scarcely suit the general taste4 ,when the lean of a dressed ham is at hand1 only the herbs and vegetables will need to be stewed in the butter2 this should be mixed with them into the forcemeat1 which an intelligent cook will vary in many ways4 ,,pur,e ,,of ,,tomatas4 ,divide a dozen fine ripe tomatas1 squeeze out the seeds1 and take off the stalks2 put them with one small mild onion 7or more1 if liked71 and about half a pint of very good gravy1 into a well-tinned stewpan or saucepan1 and simmer them for nearly or quite an hour2 a couple of bay-leaves1 some cayenne1 and as much salt as the dish may require1 should be added when they begin to boil4 ,press them through a sieve1 heat them again1 and stir to them a quarter of a pint of good cream1 previously mixed and boiled for five minutes with a teaspoonful of flour4 ,this pure is to be served with calf's head1 veal cutlets1 boiled knuckle of veal1 calf's brains1 or beef palates4 ,for pork1 beef1 geese1 and other brown meats1 the tomatas should be reduced to a proper consistence in rich and highly-flavoured brown gravy1 or ,spanish sauce4 ,,to ,,boil ,,green ,,indian ,,corn4 ,when still quite green and tender1 the ears of maize or ,indian corn are very good boiled and served as a vegetable2 and as they will not ripen well in this country unless the summer be unusually warm and favourable1 it is an advantageous mode of turning them to account4 ,strip away the sheath which encloses them1 and take off the long silken fibres from the tops2 put the corn into boiling water salted as for asparagus1 and boil it for about half an hour4 ,drain it well1 dish it on a toast1 and send it to table with melted butter4 ,the ,americans1 who have it served commonly at their tables1 use it when more fully grown than we have recommended1 and boil it without removing the inner leaves of the sheath2 but it is sweeter and more delicate before it has reached so advanced a state4 ,the grains may be freed from the corn-stalks with a knife1 and tossed up with a slice of fresh butter and some pepper and salt1 or served simply like green peas4 ,other modes of dressing the young maize will readily suggest themselves to an intelligent cook1 and our space will not permit us to enumerate them4 #be to #cj minutes4 ,,mushrooms ,,au ,,beurre4 7,delicious47 ,cut the stems from some fine meadow mushroom-buttons1 and clean them with a bit of new flannel1 and some fine salt2 then either wipe them dry with a soft cloth1 or rinse them in fresh water1 drain them quickly1 spread them in a clean cloth1 fold it over them1 and leave them for ten minutes1 or more1 to dry4 ,for every pint of them thus prepared1 put an ounce and a half of fresh butter into a thick iron saucepan1 shake it over the fire until it just begins to brown1 throw in the mushrooms1 continue to shake the saucepan over a clear fire that they may not stick to it nor burn1 and when they have simmered three or four minutes1 strew over them a little salt1 some cayenne1 and pounded mace2 stew them until they are perfectly tender1 heap them in a dish1 and serve them with their own sauce only1 for breakfast1 supper1 or luncheon4 ,nothing can be finer than the flavour of the mushrooms thus prepared2 and the addition of any liquid is far from an improvement to it4 ,they are very good when drained from the butter1 and served cold1 and in a cool larder may be kept for several days4 ,the butter in which they are stewed is admirable for flavouring gravies1 sauces1 or potted meats4 ,small flaps1 freed from the fur and skin1 may be stewed in the same way2 and either these1 or the buttons1 served under roast poultry or partridges1 will give a dish of very superior relish4 ,meadow mushrooms1 #c pints2 fresh butter #d-a_/b oz43 #c to #e minutes4 ,salt1 #a small teaspoonful2 mace1 half as much2 cayenne1 third of saltspoonful3 #aj to #ae minutes4 ,more spices to be added if required--much depending on their quality2 but they should not overpower the flavour of the mushrooms4 ,obs4--,persons inhabiting parts of the country where mushrooms are abundant1 may send them easily1 when thus prepared 7or when potted by the following receipt71 to their friends in cities1 or in less productive counties4 ,if poured into jars1 with sufficient butter to cover them1 they will travel any distance1 and can be re-warmed for use4 ,,potted ,,mushrooms4 ,prepare either small flaps or buttons with great nicety1 without wetting them1 and wipe the former very dry1 after the application of the salt and flannel4 ,stew them quite tender1 with the same proportion of butter as the mushrooms au beurre1 but increase a little the quantity of spice2 when they are done turn them into a large dish1 spread them over one end of it1 and raise it two or three inches that they may be well drained from the butter4 ,as soon as they are quite cold1 press them very closely into small potting-pans2 pour lukewarm clarified butter thickly over them1 and store them in a cool dry place4 ,if intended for present use1 merely turn them down upon a clean shelf2 but for longer keeping cover the tops first with very dry paper1 and then with melted mutton-suet4 ,we have ourselves had the mushrooms1 after being simply spread upon a dish while hot1 remain perfectly good in that state for seven or eight weeks3 they were prepared late in the season1 and the weather was consequently cool during the interval4 ,,mushroom-,,toast1 ,,or ,,cro,,te ,,aux ,,champignons4 7,excellent47 ,cut the stems closely from a quart or more1 of small just-opened mushrooms2 peel them1 and take out the gills4 ,dissolve from two to three ounces of fresh butter in a well-tinned saucepan or stewpan1 put in the mushrooms1 strew over them a quarter of a teaspoonful of pounded mace mixed with a little cayenne1 and let them stew over a gentle fire from ten to fifteen minutes2 toss or stir them often during the time2 then add a small dessertspoonful of flour1 and shake the pan round until it is lightly browned4 ,next pour in1 by slow degrees1 half a pint of gravy or of good beef-broth2 and when the mushrooms have stewed softly in this for a couple of minutes1 throw in a little salt1 and a squeeze of lemon-juice1 and pour them on to a crust1 cut about an inch and a quarter thick1 from the under part of a moderate-sized loaf1 and fried in good butter a light brown1 after having been first slightly hollowed in the inside4 ,new milk1 or thin cream1 may be used with very good effect instead of the gravy2 but a few strips of lemon-rind1 and a small portion of nutmeg and mushroom-catsup should then be added to the sauce4 ,the bread may be buttered and grilled over a gentle fire instead of being fried1 and is better so4 ,small mushrooms1 #d to #e half pints2 butter1 #c to #d oz42 mace1 mixed with a little cayenne1 #a_/d teaspoonful3 stewed softly #aj to #ae minutes4 ,flour1 #a small dessertspoonful3 #c to #e minutes4 ,gravy or broth1 #a_/b pint3 #b minutes4 ,little salt and lemon-juice4 ,,truffles ,,and ,,their ,,uses4 ,the truffle1 or underground mushroom1 as it has sometimes been called1 is held in almost extravagant estimation by epicures1#aji and enters largely into what may be termed first-class cookery1 both in ,england and abroad2 though it is much less generally known and used here than in ,france1 ,germany1 and other parts of the ,continent1 where it is far more abundant1 and of very superior quality4 ,footnote #aji3 ,it has been named by a celebrated gastronomer of past days1 8,le diamant de la cuisine40 ,as it is in constant demand for luxuriously-served tables1 and has hitherto1 we believe1 baffled all attempts to increase it by cultivation1 it bears usually a high price in the ,english market1#aaj and is seldom to be had cheap in any2 but although too costly for common consumption1 where the expenditure is regulated by rational economy1 it may at times be made to supply1 at a reasonable expense1 some excellent store-preparations for the breakfast and luncheon-table2 as a small portion will impart its peculiar flavour to them4 ,footnote #aaj3 ,varying from eight to sixteen shillings the pound at the best foreign warehouses4 ,the truffles which are pared1 bottled and steamed like fruit1 are more expensive still2 but they can be kept after the season of the fresh ones is entirely past4 ,english truffles--which are found in ,hampshire 7in the ,new ,forest7--and in some few other of our counties1 are very good1 though seldom or ever equal in quality to those of ,france1 ,germany1 and of different parts of ,italy4 ,the most esteemed of the ,french ones are from ,perigord4 ,the blackest truffles are considered the best4 ,all are in their perfection during the latter part of ,november1 ,december1 and ,january2 though they may be procured usually from ,october to ,march2 yet as they are peculiarly subject to decay--or1 properly speaking1 become really putrid--from exposure to the air1 it is an advantage to have them as early in their season as may be4 ,in sumptuous households the very finest foreign truffles are often served as a vegetable in the second course4 ,,to ,,prepare ,,truffles ,,for ,,use4 ,first soak them for an hour or two in fresh water1 to loosen the earth which adheres to them2 then rinse them well from it1 and with a hard brush scrub them until not a particle of the mould in which they have been embedded can be seen upon them4 ,this part of the operation should be especially attended to1 because the parings are as useful as the truffles themselves4 ,it is often needful to leave them longer in the water after it has been changed2 and even to soak them sometimes in lukewarm water also3 when they are perfectly cleaned1 wipe them gently with a soft cloth1 or fold them in to dry1 should they be wanted for any preparation to which moisture would be injurious4 ,,truffles ,,la ,,serviette4 ,select the finest truffles for this dish1 be particular in smelling them1 and reject any that have a musty smell4 ,wash and brush them well with cold water only1 change it several times1 and when they are perfectly clean line a stewpan with slices of bacon2 put in the truffles with a bunch of parsley1 green onions1 and thyme1 two or three bay-leaves1 half a dozen cloves1 and a little sweet basil2 pour in sufficient rich veal gravy to cover them1 with the addition of from half a pint to half a bottle of champagne2 boil them very softly for an hour1 then draw them aside and let them cool in the gravy4 ,heat them afresh in it when they are wanted for table2 lift them out and drain them in a very clean cloth1 and dish them neatly in a fine and beautifully white napkin1 which will contrast as strongly as possible with the dark hue of the truffles4 ,,truffles ,l',,italienne4 ,wash perfectly clean1 wipe1 and pare some truffles extremely thin2 slice them about the size of a penny2 put them into a saut-pan 7or small frying-pan71 with a slice of fresh butter1 some minced parsley and eschalot1 salt and pepper2 put them on the fire and stir them1 that they may fry equally2 when they are done1 which will be in about ten minutes1 drain off part of the butter1 and throw in a bit of fresh butter1 a small ladleful of ,spanish sauce 7see page #aja71 the juice of one lemon1 and a little cayenne pepper4 ,this is a dish of high relish4 ,,to ,,boil ,,sprouts1 ,,cabbages1 ,,savoys1 ,,lettuces1 ,,or ,,endive4 ,all green vegetables should be thrown into abundance of fast boiling water ready salted and skimmed1 with the addition of the small quantity of carbonate of soda which we have recommended1 in a previous page of this chapter2 the pan should be left uncovered1 and every precaution taken to prevent the smoke from reaching its contents4 ,endive1 sprouts1 and spring greens1 will only require copious washing before they are boiled2 but savoys1 large lettuces1 and close-leaved cabbages should be thrown into salt and water for half an hour or more before they are dressed1 with the tops downwards to draw out the insects4 ,the stems of these last should be cut off1 the decayed leaves stripped away1 and the vegetable halved or quartered1 or split deeply across the stalk-end1 and divided entirely before it is dished4 ,very young greens1 #ae to #bj minutes2 lettuces1 #bj to #cj minutes1 large savoys1 or cabbages1 #a to #a-a_/b hour1 or more4 ,obs4--,when the stalk of any kind of cabbage is tender it is ready to serve4 ,turnip-greens should be well washed in several waters1 and boiled in a very large quantity to deprive them of their bitterness4 ,,stewed ,,cabbage4 ,cut out the stalk entirely1 and slice a fine firm cabbage or two in very thin strips2 throw them after they have been well washed and drained1 into a large pan of boiling water ready salted and skimmed1 and when they are tender1 which will be in from ten to fifteen minutes1 pour them into a sieve or strainer1 press the water thoroughly from them1 and chop them slightly4 ,put into a very clean saucepan about a couple of ounces of butter1 and when it is dissolved add the cabbage with sufficient pepper and salt to season it1 and stir it over a clear fire until it appears tolerably dry2 then shake lightly in a tablespoonful of flour1 turn the whole well1 and add by slow degrees a cup of thick cream3 veal gravy or good white sauce may be substituted for this1 when preferred to it4 ,,to ,,boil ,,turnips4 ,pare entirely from them the fibrous rind1 and either split the turnips once or leave them whole2 throw them into boiling water slightly salted1 and keep them closely covered from smoke and dust until they are tender4 ,when small and young they will be done in from fifteen to twenty minutes2 at their full growth they will require from three quarters to a full hour1 or more1 of gentle boiling4 ,after they become old and woolly they are not worth dressing in any way4 ,when boiled in their skins and pared afterwards1 they are said to be of better flavour and much less watery than when cooked in the usual way4 ,young turnips1 #ae to #bj minutes3 full grown1 #c_/d to #a hour1 or more4 ,,to ,,mash ,,turnips4 ,split them once or even twice should they be large after they are pared2 boil them very tender1 and press the water thoroughly from them with a couple of trenchers1 or with the back of a large plate and one trencher4 ,to ensure their being free from lumps1 it is better to pass them through a cullender or coarse hair-sieve1 with a wooden spoon2 though1 when quite young1 they may be worked sufficiently smooth without this4 ,put them into a clean saucepan1 and stir them constantly for some minutes over a gentle fire1 that they may be very dry2 then add some salt1 a bit of fresh butter1 and a little cream1 or in lieu of this new milk 7we would also recommend a seasoning of white pepper or cayenne1 when appearance and fashion are not particularly regarded71 and continue to simmer and to stir them for five or six minutes longer1 or until they have quite absorbed all the liquid which has been poured to them4 ,serve them always as hot as possible4 ,this is an excellent receipt2 but the addition of a little good white sauce would render it still better4 ,turnips1 weighed after they are pared1 #c lbs43 dried #e to #h minutes4 ,salt1 #a teaspoonful2 butter1 #a oz4 to #a-a_/b oz42 cream or milk1 nearly #a_/b pint3 #e or #f minutes4 ,,turnips ,,in ,,white ,,sauce4 7,,entremets47 ,when no scoop for the purpose is at hand1 cut some small finely-grained turnips into quarters1 and pare them into balls1 or into the shape of plums or pears of equal size2 arrange them evenly in a broad stewpan or saucepan1 and cover them nearly with good veal broth1 throw in a little salt1 and a morsel of sugar1 and boil them rather quickly until they are quite tender1 but preserve them unbroken2 lift them out1 draining them well from the broth2 dish1 and pour over them some thick white sauce4 ,as an economy1 a cup of cream1 and a teaspoonful of arrow-root1 may be added to the broth in which the turnips have stewed1 to make the sauce2 and when it boils1 a small slice of butter may be stirred and well worked into it1 should it not be sufficiently rich without4 ,,turnips ,,stewed ,,in ,,butter4 7,,good47 ,this is an excellent way of dressing the vegetable when it is mild and finely grained2 but its flavour otherwise is too strong to be agreeable4 ,after they have been washed1 wiped quite dry1 and pared1 slice the turnips nearly half an inch thick1 and divide them into dice14 ,just dissolve an ounce of butter for each half-pound of the turnips1 put them in as flat as they can be1 and stew them very gently indeed1 from three quarters of an hour to a full hour4 ,add a seasoning of salt and white pepper when they are half done4 ,when thus prepared1 they may be dished in the centre of fried or nicely broiled mutton cutlets1 or served by themselves4 ,for a small dish3 turnips1 #a-a_/b lb42 butter1 #c oz42 seasoning of white pepper2 salt1 #a_/b teaspoonful1 or more3 #c_/d to #a hour4 ,large dish3 turnips1 #b lbs42 butter #d oz4 ,,turnips ,,in ,,gravy4 ,to a pound of turnips sliced and cut into dice1 pour a quarter of a pint of boiling veal gravy1 add a small lump of sugar1 some salt and cayenne1 or white pepper1 and boil them quickly from fifty to sixty minutes4 ,serve them very hot4 ,,to ,,boil ,,carrots4 ,wash the mould from them1 and scrape the skin off lightly with the edge of a sharp knife1 or1 should this be objected to1 pare them as thin and as equally as possible2 in either case free them from all blemishes1 and should they be very large1 divide them1 and cut the thick parts into quarters2 rinse them well1 and throw them into plenty of boiling water with some salt in it4 ,the skin of very young carrots may be rubbed off like that of new potatoes1 and from twenty to thirty minutes will then be sufficient to boil them2 but at their full growth they will require from an hour and a half to two hours4 ,it was formerly the custom to tie them in a cloth1 and to wipe the skin from them with it after they were dressed2 and old-fashioned cooks still use one to remove it2 but all vegetables should1 we think1 be dished and served with the least possible delay after they are ready for table4 ,melted butter should accompany boiled carrots4 ,very young carrots1 #bj to #cj minutes4 ,full-grown ones1 #a-a_/b to #b hours4 ,,carrots4 7,,entr,e47 7,the ,windsor ,receipt47 ,select some good carrots of equal size1 and cut the upper parts into even lengths of about two inches and a half1 then trim one end of each into a point1 so as to give the carrot the form of a sugar loaf4#aaa ,when all are ready1 throw them into plenty of ready-salted boiling water1 and boil them three quarters of an hour4 ,lift them out1 and drain them well1 then arrange them upright1 and all on a level in a broad stewpan or saucepan1 and pour in good hot beef-broth or veal gravy to half their height2 add as much salt as may be needed1 and a small teaspoonful of sugar1 and boil them briskly for half an hour1 or longer1 should they require it4 ,place them again upright in dishing them1 and keep them hot while a little good brown gravy is thickened to pour over them1 and mixed with a large teaspoonful of parsley and a little lemon-juice2 or sauce them with common bchamel 7see ,chapter ,v471 or white sauce1 with or without the addition of parsley4 ,footnote #aaa3 ,see plate1 page #cch4 ,thick part of carrots cut in cones3 boiled #c_/d hour4 ,with gravy or broth1 little salt and sugar3 #a_/b hour1 or more4 ,sauce3 thickened gravy1 bchamel made without meat1 or common white sauce4 ,obs4--,the carrots dressed thus are exceedingly good without any sauce beyond the small quantity of liquid which will remain in the stewpan with them1 or with a few spoonsful more of gravy added to this1 and thickened with butter and a little flour4 ,,sweet ,,carrots4 7,,entremets47 ,boil quite tender some fine highly-flavoured carrots1 press the water from them1 and rub them through the back of a fine hair-sieve2 put them into a clean saucepan or stewpan1 and dry them thoroughly over a gentle fire2 then add a slice of fresh butter1 and when this is dissolved and well mixed with them1 strew in a dessertspoonful or more of powdered sugar1 and a little salt2 next1 stir in by degrees some good cream1 and when this is quite absorbed1 and the carrots again appear dry1 dish and serve them quickly with small sippets la ,reine 7see page #e71 placed round them4 ,carrots1 #c lbs41 boiled quite tender3 stirred over a gentle fire #e to #aj minutes4 ,butter1 #b oz42 salt1 #a_/b teaspoonful2 pounded sugar1 #a dessertspoonful2 cream1 #a_/b pint1 stewed gently together until quite dry4 ,obs4--,for excellent mashed carrots omit the sugar1 add a good seasoning of salt and white pepper1 and half a pint of rich brown gravy2 or for a plain dinner rather less than this of milk4 ,,mashed 7,,or ,,buttered7 ,,carrots4 7,a ,dutch ,receipt47 ,prepare some finely flavoured carrots as above1 and dry them over a gentle fire like mashed turnips2 then for a dish of moderate size mix well with them from two to three ounces of good butter1 cut into small bits1 keeping them well stirred4 ,add a seasoning of salt and cayenne1 and serve them very hot1 garnished or not at pleasure with small sippets 7croutons7 of fried bread4 ,,carrots ,,au ,,beurre1 ,,or ,,buttered ,,carrots4 7,french47 ,either boil sufficient carrots for a dish quite tender1 and then cut them into slices a quarter of an inch thick1 or first slice1 and then boil them3 the latter method is the most expeditious1 but the other best preserves the flavour of the vegetable4 ,drain them well1 and while this is being done just dissolve from two to three ounces of butter in a saucepan1 and strew in some minced parsley1 some salt1 and white pepper or cayenne2 then add the carrots1 and toss them very gently until they are equally covered with the sauce1 which should not be allowed to boil3 the parsley may be omitted at pleasure4 ,cold carrots may be re-warmed in this way4 ,,carrots ,,in ,,their ,,own ,,juice4 7,a simple but excellent ,receipt47 ,by the following mode of dressing carrots1 whether young or old1 their full flavour and all the nutriment they contain are entirely preserved2 and they are at the same time rendered so palatable by it that they furnish at once an admirable dish to eat without meat1 as well as with it4 ,wash the roots very clean1 and scrape or lightly pare them1 cutting out any discoloured parts4 ,have ready boiling and salted1 as much water as will cover them2 slice them rather thick1 throw them into it1 and should there be more than sufficient to just float them 7and barely that71 pour it away4 ,boil them gently until they are tolerably tender1 and then very quickly1 to evaporate the water1 of which only a spoonful or so should be left in the saucepan4 ,dust a seasoning of pepper on them1 throw in a morsel of butter rolled in flour1 and turn and toss them gently until their juice is thickened by them and adheres to the roots4 ,send them immediately to table4 ,they are excellent without any addition but the pepper2 though they may be in many ways improved4 ,a dessertspoonful of minced parsley may be strewed over them when the butter is added1 and a little thick cream mixed with a small proportion of flour to prevent its curdling1 may be strewed amongst them1 or a spoonful or two of good gravy4 ,,to ,,boil ,,parsneps4 ,these are dressed in precisely the same manner as carrots1 but require much less boiling4 ,according to their quality and the time of year1 they will take from twenty minutes to nearly an hour4 ,every speck or blemish should be cut from them after they are scraped1 and the water in which they are boiled should be well skimmed4 ,they are a favourite accompaniment to salt fish and boiled pork1 and may be served either mashed or plain4 #bj to #be minutes4 ,,fried ,,parsneps4 ,boil them until they are about half done1 lift them out1 and let them cool2 slice them rather thickly1 sprinkle them with fine salt and white pepper1 and fry them a pale brown in good butter4 ,serve them with roast meat1 or dish them under it4 ,,jerusalem ,,artichokes4 ,wash the artichokes1 pare them quickly1 and throw them as they are done into a saucepan of cold water1 or of equal parts of milk and water2 and when they are about half boiled add a little salt to them4 ,take them up the instant they are perfectly tender3 this will be in from fifteen to twenty-five minutes1 so much do they vary in size and as to the time necessary to dress them4 ,if allowed to remain in the water after they are done1 they become black and flavourless4 ,melted butter should always be sent to table with them4 #ae to #be minutes4 ,,to ,,fry ,,jerusalem ,,artichokes4 7,,entremets47 ,boil them from eight to twelve minutes2 lift them out1 drain them on a sieve1 and let them cool2 dip them into beaten eggs1 and cover them with fine bread-crumbs4 ,fry them a light brown1 drain1 pile them in a hot dish1 and serve them quickly4 ,,jerusalem ,,artichokes1 ,,la ,,reine4 ,illustration3 ,artichokes la ,reine4 ,wash and wipe the artichokes1 cut off one end of each quite flat1 and trim the other into a point2 boil them in milk and water1 lift them out the instant they are done1 place them upright in the dish in which they are to be served1 and sauce them with a good bchamel1 or with nearly half a pint of cream thickened with a rice-crustspoonful of flour1 mixed with an ounce and a half of butter1 and seasoned with a little mace and some salt4 ,when cream cannot be procured use new milk1 and increase the proportion of flour and butter4 ,,mashed ,,jerusalem ,,artichokes4 ,boil them tender1 press the water well from them1 and then proceed exactly as for mashed turnips1 taking care to dry the artichokes well1 both before and after the milk or cream is added to them2 they will be excellent if good white sauce be substituted for either of these4 ,,haricots ,,blancs4 ,the haricot blanc is the seed of a particular kind of ,french bean1 of which we find some difficulty in ascertaining the ,english name1 for though we have tried several which resembled it in appearance1 we have found their flavour1 after they were dressed1 very different1 and far from agreeable4 ,the large white ,dutch runner1 is1 we believe1 the proper variety for cooking2 at least we have obtained a small quantity under that name1 which approached much more nearly than any others we had tried to those which we had eaten abroad4 ,the haricots1 when fresh may be thrown into plenty of boiling water1 with some salt and a small bit of butter2 if dry1 they must be previously soaked for an hour or two1 put into cold water1 brought to boil gently1 and simmered until they are tender1 for if boiled fast the skins will burst before the beans are done4 ,drain them thoroughly from the water when they are ready1 and lay them into a clean saucepan over two or three ounces of fresh butter1 a small dessertspoonful of chopped parsley1 and sufficient salt and pepper to season the whole2 then gently shake or toss the beans until they are quite hot and equally covered with the sauce2 add the strained juice of half a lemon1 and serve them quickly4 ,the vegetable thus dressed1 is excellent2 and it affords a convenient resource in the season when the supply of other kinds is scantiest4 ,in some countries the dried beans are placed in water1 over-night1 upon a stove1 and by a very gentle degree of warmth are sufficiently softened by the following day to be served as follows3--they are drained from the water1 spread on a clean cloth and wiped quite dry1 then lightly floured and fried in oil or butter1 with a seasoning of pepper and salt1 lifted into a hot dish1 and served under roast beef1 or mutton4 ,,to ,,boil ,,beet ,,root4 ,wash the roots delicately clean1 but neither scrape nor cut them1 for should even the small fibres be taken off before they are cooked1 their beautiful colour would be much injured4 ,throw them into boiling water1 and1 according to their size1 which varies greatly1 as they are sometimes of enormous growth1 boil them from one hour and a half to two and a half1 or longer if requisite4 ,pare and serve them whole1 or cut into thick slices and neatly dished in a close circle3 send melted butter to table with them4 ,cold red beet root is often intermingled with other vegetables for winter salads2 and it makes a pickle of remarkably brilliant hue4 ,a common mode of serving it at the present day is in the last course of a dinner with the cheese3 it is merely pared and sliced after having been baked or boiled tender4 #a-a_/b to #b-a_/b hours1 or longer4 ,,to ,,bake ,,beet ,,root4 ,beet root if slowly and carefully baked until it is tender quite through1 is very rich and sweet in flavour1 although less bright in colour than when it is boiled3 it is also1 we believe1 remarkably nutritious and wholesome4 ,wash and wipe it very dry1 but neither cut nor break any part of it2 then lay it into a coarse earthen dish1 and bake it in a gentle oven for four or five hours3 it will sometimes require even a longer time than this4 ,pare it quickly if it be served hot2 but leave it to cool first1 when it is to be sent to table cold4 ,in slow oven from #d to #f hours4 ,,stewed ,,beet ,,root4 ,bake or boil it tolerably tender1 and let it remain until it is cold1 then pare and cut it into slices2 heat and stew it for a short time in some good pale veal gravy 7or in strong veal broth for ordinary occasions71 thicken this with a teaspoonful of arrow-root1 and half a cupful or more of good cream1 and stir in1 as it is taken from the fire1 from a tea to a tablespoonful of chili vinegar4 ,the beet root may be served likewise in thick white sauce1 to which1 just before it is dished1 the mild eschalots of page #abh may be added4 ,,to ,,stew ,,red ,,cabbage4 7,flemish ,receipt47 ,strip the outer leaves from a fine and fresh red cabbage2 wash it well1 and cut it into the thinnest possible slices1 beginning at the top2 put it into a thick saucepan in which two or three ounces of good butter have been just dissolved2 add some pepper and salt1 and stew it very slowly indeed for three or four hours in its own juice1 keeping it often stirred1 and well pressed down4 ,when it is perfectly tender add a tablespoonful of vinegar2 mix the whole up thoroughly1 heap the cabbage in a hot dish1 and serve broiled sausages round it2 or omit these last1 and substitute lemon-juice1 cayenne pepper1 and a half-cupful of good gravy4 ,the stalk of the cabbage should be split in quarters and taken entirely out in the first instance4 #c to #d hours4 ,,brussels ,,sprouts4 ,these delicate little sprouts1 or miniature cabbages1 which at their fullest growth scarcely exceed a large walnut in size1 should be quite freshly gathered4 ,free them from all discoloured leaves1 cut the stems even1 and wash the sprouts thoroughly4 ,throw them into a pan of water properly salted1 and boil them quickly from eight to ten minutes2 drain them well1 and serve them upon a rather thick round of toasted bread buttered on both sides4 ,send good melted butter to table with them4 ,this is the ,belgian mode of dressing this excellent vegetable1 which is served in ,france with the sauce poured over it1 or it is tossed in a stewpan with a slice of butter and some pepper and salt3 a spoonful or two of veal gravy 7and sometimes a little lemon-juice7 is added when these are perfectly mixed4 #h to #aj minutes4 ,,salsify4 ,we are surprised that a vegetable so excellent as this should be so little cared for in ,england4 ,delicately fried in batter--which is a common mode of serving it abroad--it forms a delicious second course dish3 it is also good when plain-boiled1 drained1 and served in gravy1 or even with melted butter4 ,wash the roots1 scrape gently off the dark outside skin1 and throw them into cold water as they are done1 to prevent their turning black2 cut them into lengths of three or four inches1 and when all are ready put them into plenty of boiling water with a little salt1 a small bit of butter1 and a couple of spoonsful of white vinegar or the juice of a lemon3 they will be done in from three quarters of an hour to an hour4 ,try them with a fork1 and when perfectly tender1 drain1 and serve them with white sauce1 rich brown gravy1 or melted butter4 #c_/d to #a hour4 ,,fried ,,salsify4 7,,entremets47 ,boil the salsify tender1 as directed above1 drain1 and then press it lightly in a soft cloth4 ,make some ,french batter 7see ,chapter ,v471 throw the bits of salsify into it1 take them out separately1 and fry them a light brown1 drain them well from the fat1 sprinkle a little fine salt over them after they are dished1 and serve them quickly4 ,at ,english tables1 salsify occasionally makes its appearance fried with egg and bread-crumbs instead of batter4 ,scorgonera is dressed in precisely the same manner as the salsify4 ,,boiled ,,celery4 ,this vegetable is extremely good dressed like sea-kale1 and served on a toast with rich melted butter4 ,let it be freshly dug1 wash it with great nicety1 trim the ends1 take off the coarse outer-leaves1 cut the roots of equal length1 tie them in bunches1 and boil them in plenty of water1 with the usual proportion of salt1 from twenty to thirty minutes4 #bj to #cj minutes4 ,,stewed ,,celery4 ,cut five or six fine roots of celery to the length of the inside of the dish in which they are to be served2 free them from all the coarser leaves1 and from the green tops1 trim the root ends neatly1 and wash the vegetable in several waters until it is as clean as possible2 then1 either boil it tender with a little salt1 and a bit of fresh butter the size of a walnut1 in just sufficient water to cover it quite1 drain it well1 arrange it on a very hot dish1 and pour a thick bchamel1 or white sauce over it2 or stew it in broth or common stock1 and serve it with very rich1 thickened1 ,espagnole or brown gravy4 ,it has a higher flavour when partially stewed in the sauce1 after being drained thoroughly from the broth4 ,unless very large and old1 it will be done in from twenty-five to thirty minutes1 but if not quite tender1 longer time must be allowed for it4 ,a cheap and expeditious method of preparing this dish is to slice the celery1 to simmer it until soft in as much good broth as will only just cover it1 and to add a thickening of flour and butter1 or arrow-root1 with some salt1 pepper1 and a small cupful of cream4 #be to #cj minutes1 or more4 ,,stewed ,,onions4 ,strip the outer skin from four or five fine ,portugal onions1 and trim the ends1 but without cutting into the vegetable2 arrange them in a saucepan of sufficient size to contain them all in one layer1 just cover them with good beef or veal gravy1 and stew them very gently indeed for a couple of hours3 they should be tender quite through1 but should not be allowed to fall to pieces4 ,when large1 but not mild onions are used1 they should be first boiled for half an hour in plenty of water1 then drained from it1 and put into boiling gravy3 strong1 well-flavoured broth of veal or beef1 is sometimes substituted for this1 and with the addition of a little catsup1 spice1 and thickening1 answers very well4 ,the savour of this dish is heightened by flouring lightly and frying the onions of a pale brown before they are stewed4 ,portugal onions1 #d or #e 7if fried1 #ae to #bj minutes72 broth or gravy1 #a to #a-a_/b pint3 nearly or quite #b hours4 ,obs4--,when the quantity of gravy is considered too much1 the onions may be only half covered1 and turned when the under side is tender1 but longer time must then be allowed for stewing them4 ,,stewed ,,chestnuts4 ,strip the outer rind from forty or fifty fine sound ,spanish chestnuts1 throw them into a large saucepan of hot water1 and bring it to the point of boiling2 when the second skin parts from them easily1 lift them out1 and throw them into plenty of cold water2 peel1 and wipe them dry2 then put them into a stewpan or bright saucepan1 with as much highly-flavoured cold beef or veal gravy as will nearly cover them1 and stew them very gently from three-quarters of an hour to a full hour3 they should be quite tender1 but unbroken4 ,add salt1 cayenne1 and thickening if required1 and serve the chestnuts in their gravy4 ,we have found it an improvement to have them floured and lightly browned in a little good butter before they are stewed1 and also to add some thin strips of fresh lemon-rind to the gravy4 ,chestnuts1 #dj or #ej2 gravy1 #c_/d pint1 or more3 #c_/d to #a hour4 ,obs4--,a couple of bay-leaves and a slice of lean ham will give an improved flavour to the sauce should it not be sufficiently rich3 the ham should be laid under the chestnuts1 but not served with them4 ,when these are to be browned1 or even otherwise1 they may be freed readily from the second skin by shaking them with a small bit of butter in a frying-pan over a gentle fire4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,chapter ,,xviii4 ,pastry4 ,illustration3 ,timbale or ,pat ,chaud4 ,,introductory ,,remarks4 ,illustration3 ,raised ,pie ,mould4 ,,the greatest possible cleanliness and nicety should be observed in making pastry4 ,the slab or board1 paste-rollers1 tins1 cutters1 moulds1 everything1 in fact1 used for it1 and especially the hands1 should be equally free from the slightest soil or particle of dust4 ,the more expeditiously the finer kinds of paste are made and despatched to the oven1 and the less they are touched the better4 ,much of their excellence depends upon the baking also4 ,they should have a sufficient degree of heat to raise them quickly1 but not so fierce a one as to colour them too much before they are done1 and still less to burn them4 ,the oven door should remain closed after they are put in1 and not removed until the paste is set4 ,large raised pies require a steadily sustained1 or1 what is technically called a soaking heat1 and to ensure this the oven should be made very hot1 then cleared1 and closely shut from half to a whole hour before it is used1 to concentrate the heat4 ,it is an advantage in this case to have a large log or two of cord-wood burned in it1 in addition to the usual fuel4 ,in mixing paste1 the water should be added gradually1 and the whole gently drawn together with the fingers1 until sufficient has been added1 when it should be lightly kneaded until it is as smooth as possible4 ,when carelessly made1 the surface is often left covered with small dry crumbs or lumps2 or the water is poured in heedlessly in so large a proportion that it becomes necessary to add more flour to render it workable in any way2 and this ought particularly to be avoided when a certain weight of all the ingredients has been taken4 ,,to ,,glaze ,,or ,,ice ,,pastry4#aab ,footnote #aab3 ,for other pastry icings see chapter of 8cakes404 ,the fine yellow glaze appropriate to meat pies is given with beaten yolk of egg1 which should be laid on with a paste brush1 or a small bunch of feathers3 if a lighter colour be wished for1 whisk the whole of the egg together1 or mix a little milk with the yolk4 ,the best mode of icing fruit-tarts before they are sent to the oven is1 to moisten the paste with cold water1 to sift sugar thickly upon it1 and to press it lightly on with the hand2 but when a whiter icing is preferred1 the pastry must be drawn from the oven when nearly baked1 and brushed with white of egg1 wisked to a froth2 then well covered with the sifted sugar1 and sprinkled with a few drops of water before it is put in again3 this glazing answers also very well1 though it takes a slight colour1 if used before the pastry is baked4 ,,feuilletage1 ,,or ,,fine ,,french ,,puff ,,paste4 ,this1 when made by a good ,french cook1 is the perfection of rich light paste1 and will rise in the oven from one to six inches in height3 but some practice is1 without doubt1 necessary to accomplish this4 ,in summer it is a great advantage to have ice at hand1 and to harden the butter over it before it is used2 the paste also between the intervals of rolling is improved by being laid on an oven-leaf over a vessel containing it4 ,take an equal weight of good butter free from the coarse salt which is found in some1 and which is disadvantageous for this paste1 and of fine dry1 sifted flour2 to each pound of these allow the yolks of a couple of eggs1 and a small teaspoonful of salt4 ,break a few small bits of the butter very lightly into the flour1 put the salt into the centre1 and pour on it sufficient water to dissolve it 7we do not understand why the doing this should be better than mixing it with the flour1 as in other pastes1 but such is the method always pursued for it72 add a little more water to the eggs1 moisten the flour gradually1 and make it into a very smooth paste1 rather lithe in summer1 and never exceedingly stiff1 though the opposite fault1 in the extreme1 would render the crust unmanageable4 ,press1 in a soft thin cloth1 all the moisture from the remainder of the butter and form it into a ball1 but in doing this be careful not to soften it too much4 ,should it be in an unfit state for pastry from the heat of the weather1 put it into a basin1 and set the basin into a pan of water mixed with plenty of salt and saltpetre1 and let it remain in a cool place for an hour if possible before it is used4 ,when it is ready 7and the paste should never be commenced until it is so71 roll the crust out square1#aac and of sufficient size to enclose the butter1 flatten this a little upon it in the centre1 and then fold the crust well over it1 and roll it out thin as lightly as possible1 after having dredged the board and paste roller with a little flour3 this is called giving it one turn4 ,then fold it in three1 give it another turn1 and set it aside where it will be very cool1 for a few minutes2 give it two more turns in the same way1 rolling it each time very lightly but of equal thickness1 and to the full length that it will reach1 taking always especial care that the butter shall not break through the paste4 ,let it again be set aside to become cold2 and after it has been twice more rolled and folded in three1 give it a half turn1 by folding it once only1 and it will be ready for use4 ,footnote #aac3 ,the learner will perhaps find it easier to fold the paste securely round it in the form of a dumpling1 until a little experience has been acquired4 ,equal weight of the finest flour and good butter2 to each pound of these1 the yolks of two eggs1 and a small saltspoonful of salt3 #f-a_/b turns to be given to the paste4 ,,very ,,good ,,light ,,paste4 ,mix with a pound of sifted flour six ounces of fresh1 pure lard1 and make them into a smooth paste with cold water2 press the buttermilk from ten ounces of butter1 and form it into a ball1 by twisting it in a clean cloth4 ,roll out the paste1 put the ball of butter in the middle1 close it like an apple-dumpling1 and roll it very lightly until it is less than an inch thick2 fold the ends into the middle1 dust a little flour over the board and paste-roller1 and roll the paste thin a second time1 then set it aside for three or four minutes in a very cool place2 give it two more turns1 after it has again been left for a few minutes1 roll it out twice more1 folding it each time in three4 ,this ought to render it fit for use4 ,the sooner this paste is sent to the oven after it is made1 the lighter it will be3 if allowed to remain long before it is baked1 it will be tough and heavy4 ,flour1 #a lb42 lard1 #f oz42 butter1 #aj oz42 little salt4 ,,english ,,puff-,,paste4 ,break lightly into a couple of pounds of dried and sifted flour eight ounces of butter2 add a pinch of salt1 and sufficient cold water to make the paste2 work it as quickly and as lightly as possible1 until it is smooth and pliable1 then level it with the paste-roller until it is three-quarters of an inch thick1 and place regularly upon it six ounces of butter in small bits2 fold the paste like a blanket pudding1 roll it out again1 lay on it six ounces more of butter1 repeat the rolling1 dusting each time a little flour over the board and paste1 add again six ounces of butter1 and roll the paste out thin three or four times1 folding the ends into the middle4 ,flour1 #b lbs42 little salt2 butter1 #a lb4 #aj oz4 ,if very rich paste be required1 equal portions of flour and butter must be used2 and the latter may be divided into two1 instead of three parts1 when it is to be rolled in4 ,,cream ,,crust4 7,authors ,receipt4 ,very good47 ,stir a little fine salt into a pound of dry flour1 and mix gradually with it sufficient very thick1 sweet cream to form a smooth paste2 it will be found sufficiently good for common family dinners1 without the addition of butter2 but to make an excellent crust1 roll in four ounces in the usual way1 after having given the paste a couple of turns4 ,handle it as lightly as possible in making it1 and send it to the oven as soon as it is ready3 it may be used for fruit tarts1 cannelons1 puffs1 and other varieties of small pastry1 or for good meat pies4 ,six ounces of butter to the pound of flour will give a very rich crust4 ,flour1 #a lb42 salt1 #a small saltspoonful 7more for meat pies72 rich cream1 #a_/b to #c_/d pint2 butter1 #d oz42 for richest crust1 #f oz4 ,,pate ,,bris,e1 ,,or ,,french ,,crust ,,for ,,hot ,,or ,,cold ,,meat ,,pies4 ,sift two pounds and a quarter of fine dry flour1 and break into it one pound of butter1 work them together with the fingers until they resemble fine crumbs of bread1 then add a small teaspoonful of salt1 and make them into a firm paste1 with the yolks of four eggs1 well beaten1 mixed with half a pint of cold water1 and strained2 or for a somewhat richer crust of the same kind1 take two pounds of flour1 one of butter1 the yolks of four eggs1 half an ounce of salt1 and less than the half pint of water1 and work the whole well until the paste is perfectly smooth4 ,flour1 #b-a_/d lbs42 butter1 #a lb42 salt1 #a small teaspoonful2 yolks of eggs1 #d2 water1 #a_/b pint4 ,or3 flour1 #b lbs42 butter1 #a lb42 yolks of eggs1 #d2 water1 less than #a_/b pint4 ,,flead ,,crust4 ,flead is the provincial name for the leaf1 or inside fat of a pig1 which makes excellent crust when fresh1 much finer1 indeed1 than after it is melted into lard4 ,clear it quite from skin1 and slice it very thin into the flour1 add sufficient salt to give flavour to the paste1 and make the whole up smooth and firm with cold water2 lay it on a clean dresser1 and beat it forcibly with a rolling-pin until the flead is blended perfectly with the flour4 ,it may then be made into cakes with a paste-cutter1 or used for pies1 round the edges of which a knife should be passed1 as the crust rises better when cut than if merely rolled to the proper size4 ,with the addition of a small quantity of butter1 which may either be broken into the flour before the flead is mixed with it1 or rolled into the paste after it is beaten1 it will be found equal to fine puff crust1 with the advantage of being more easy of digestion4 ,quite common crust3 flour1 #a-a_/d lb42 flead1 #h oz42 salt1 #a small teaspoonful4 ,good common crust3 flour1 #a lb42 flead1 #f oz42 butter1 #b oz4 ,rich crust3 flead1 #c_/d lb42 butter1 #b oz42 flour1 #a lb4 ,the crust is very good when made without any butter4 ,,common ,,suet-,,crust ,,for ,,pies4 ,in many families this is preferred both for pies and tarts1 to crust made with butter1 as being much more wholesome2 but it should never be served unless especially ordered1 as it is to some persons peculiarly distasteful4 ,chop the suet extremely small1 and add from six to eight ounces of it to a pound of flour1 with a few grains of salt2 mix these with cold water into a firm paste1 and work it very smooth4 ,some cooks beat it with a paste-roller1 until the suet is perfectly blended with flour2 but the crust is lighter without this4 ,in exceedingly sultry weather the suet1 not being firm enough to chop1 may be sliced as thin as possible1 and well beaten into the paste after it is worked up4 ,flour1 #b lbs42 beef or veal kidney-suet1 #ab to #af oz42 salt 7for fruit-pies71 #a_/d teaspoonful1 for meat-pies1 #a teaspoonful4 ,,very ,,superior ,,suet-,,crust4 ,strip the skin entirely from some fresh veal or beef kidney-suet2 chop1 and then put it into the mortar1 with a small quantity of pure-flavoured lard1 oil1 or butter1 and pound it perfectly smooth3 it may then be used for crust in the same way that butter is1 in making puff-paste1 and in this form will be found a most excellent substitute for it1 for hot pies or tarts4 ,it is not quite so good for those which are to be served cold4 ,eight ounces of suet pounded with two of butter1 and worked with the fingers into a pound of flour1 will make an exceedingly good short crust2 but for a very rich one the proportion must be increased4 ,good short crust3 flour1 #a lb42 suet1 #h oz42 butter1 #b oz42 salt1 #a_/b teaspoonful4 ,richer crust3 suet1 #af oz42 butter1 #d oz42 flour1 #a-a_/b lb42 salt1 #a small teaspoonful4 ,,very ,,rich ,,short ,,crust ,,for ,,tarts4 ,break lightly1 with the least possible handling1 six ounces of butter into eight of flour2 add a dessertspoonful of pounded sugar1 and two or three of water2 roll the paste1 for several minutes1 to blend the ingredients well1 folding it together like puff-crust1 and touch it as little as possible4 ,flour1 #h oz42 butter1 #f oz42 pounded sugar1 #a dessertspoonful2 water1 #a to #b spoonsful4 ,,excellent ,,short ,,crust ,,for ,,sweet ,,pastry4 ,crumble down very lightly half a pound of butter into a pound of flour1 breaking it quite small4 ,mix well with these a slight pinch of salt and two ounces of sifted sugar1 and add sufficient milk to make them up into a very smooth and somewhat firm paste4 ,bake this slowly1 and keep it pale4 ,it will be found an admirable crust if well made and lightly handled1 and will answer for many dishes much better than puff-paste4 ,it will rise in the oven too1 and be extremely light4 ,ten ounces of butter will render it very rich1 but we find eight quite sufficient4 ,,brioche ,,paste4 ,the brioche is a rich1 light kind of unsweetened bun or cake1 very commonly sold1 and served to all classes of people in ,france1 where it is made in great perfection by good cooks and pastry cooks4 ,it is fashionable now at ,english tables1 though in a different form1 serving principally as a crust to enclose rissoles1 or to make cannelons and fritters4 ,we have seen it recommended for a vol-au-vent1 for which we should say it does not answer by any means so well as the fine puff-paste called feuilletage4 ,the large proportion of butter and eggs which it contains render it to many persons highly indigestible2 and we mention this to warn invalids against it1 as we have known it to cause great suffering to persons out of health4 ,to make it1 take a couple of pounds#aad of fine dry flour1 sifted as for cakes1 and separate eight ounces of this from the remainder to make the leaven4 ,put it into a small pan1 and mix it lightly into a lithe paste1 with half an ounce of yeast1 and a spoonful or two of warm water2 make two or three slight incisions across the top1 throw a cloth over the pan1 and place it near the fire for about twenty minutes to rise4 ,in the interval make a hollow space in the centre of the remainder of the flour1 and put into it half an ounce of salt1 as much fine sifted sugar1 and half a gill of cream1 or a dessertspoonful of water2 add a pound of butter as free from moisture as it can be1 and quite so from large grains of salt2 cut it into small bits1 put it into the flour1 and pour on it one by one six fresh eggs freed from the specks2 then with the fingers work the flour gently into this mass until the whole forms a perfectly smooth1 and not stiff paste3 a seventh egg1 or the yolk of one1 or even of two1 may be added with advantage if the flour will absorb them2 but the brioche must always be workable1 and not so moist as to adhere to the board and roller disagreeably4 ,when the leaven is well risen spread this paste out1 and the leaven over it2 mix them well together with the hands1 then cut the whole into several portions1 and change them about that the leaven may be incorporated perfectly and equally with the other ingredients3 when this is done1 and the brioche is perfectly smooth and pliable1 dust some flour on a cloth1 roll the brioche in it1 and lay it into a pan4 ,place it in summer in a cool place1 in winter in a warm one4 ,it is usually made over-night1 and baked in the early part of the following day4 ,it should then be kneaded up afresh the first thing in the morning4 ,to mould it in the usual form1 make it into balls of uniform size1 hollow these a little at the top by pressing the thumb round them1 brush them over with yolk of egg1 and put a second much smaller ball into the hollow part of each2 glaze them entirely with yolk of egg1 and send them to a quick oven for half an hour or more4 ,the paste may also be made into the form of a large cake1 then placed on a tin1 or copper oven-leaf1 and supported with a pasteboard in the baking2 for the form of which see introductory page of ,chapter ,,xxvii4 ,footnote #aad3 ,it should be remarked1 that the directions for brioche-making are principally derived from the ,french1 and that the pound in their country weighs two ounces more than with us3 this difference will account for the difficulty of working in the number of eggs which they generally specify1 and which render the paste too moist4 ,flour1 #b lbs42 yeast1 #a_/b oz42 salt and sugar1 each #a_/b oz42 butter1 #a lb42 eggs1 #f to #h4 ,,modern ,,potato ,,pasty4 7,an excellent family dish47 ,illustration ,illustration ,a tin mould of the construction shown in the plate1 with a perforated moveable top1 and a small valve to allow the escape of the steam1 must be had for this pasty1 which is a good family dish1 and which may be varied in numberless ways4 ,arrange at the bottom of the mould from two to three pounds of mutton cutlets1 freed1 according to the taste1 from all1 or from the greater portion of the fat1 then washed1 lightly dredged on both sides with flour1 and seasoned with salt and pepper1 or cayenne4 ,pour to them sufficient broth or water to make the gravy1 and add to it at pleasure1 a tablespoonful of mushroom catsup or of ,harvey's sauce4 ,have ready boiled1 and very smoothly mashed1 with about an ounce of butter1 and a spoonful or two of milk or cream to each pound1 as many good potatoes as will form a crust to the pasty of quite three inches thick2 put the cover on the mould and arrange these equally upon it1 leaving them a little rough on the surface4 ,bake the pasty in a moderate oven from three-quarters of an hour to an hour and a quarter1 according to its size and its contents4 ,pin a folded napkin neatly round the mould1 before it is served1 and have ready a hot dish to receive the cover1 which must not be lifted off until after the pasty is on the table4 ,chicken1 or veal and oysters2 delicate pork chops with a seasoning of sage and a little parboiled onion1 or an eschalot or two finely minced2 partridges or rabbits neatly carved1 mixed with small mushrooms1 and moistened with a little good stock1 will all give excellent varieties of this dish1 which may be made likewise with highly seasoned slices of salmon freed from the skin1 sprinkled with fine herbs or intermixed with shrimps2 clarified butter1 rich veal stock1 or good white wine1 may be poured to them to form the gravy4 ,to thicken this1 a little flour should be dredged upon the fish before it is laid into the mould4 ,other kinds1 such as cod1 mullet1 mackerel in fillets1 salt fish 7previously kept at the point of boiling until three parts done1 then pulled into flakes1 and put into the mould with hard eggs sliced1 a little cream1 flour1 butter1 cayenne1 and anchovy-essence1 and baked with mashed parsneps on the top71 will all answer well for this pasty4 ,veal1 when used for it1 should be well beaten first3 sweetbreads1 sliced1 may be laid in with it4 ,for a pasty of moderate size1 two pounds1 or two and a half of meat1 and from three to four of potatoes1 will be sufficient2 a quarter of a pint of milk or cream1 two small teaspoonsful of salt1 and from one to two ounces of butter must be mixed up with these last4#aae ,footnote #aae3 ,a larger proportion of cream and butter well dried into the potatoes over a gentle fire after they are mashed1 will render the crust of the pasty richer and finer4 ,,casserole ,,of ,,rice4 ,proceed exactly as for ,gabrielle's pudding 7see ,chapter ,,xxi471 but substitute good veal broth or stock for the milk1 and add a couple of ounces more of butter4 ,fill the casserole when it is emptied1 with a rich mince or fricassee1 or with stewed oysters in a bchamel sauce4 ,french cooks make a very troublesome and elaborate affair of this dish1 putting to the rice to make it 8mellow10 a great deal of pot-top fat1 slices of fat ham1 c41 which must afterwards be well drained off1 or picked out from it2 but the dish1 made as we have directed1 will be found excellent eating1 and of very elegant appearance1 if it be moulded in a tasteful shape4 ,it must have a quick oven to colour1 without too much drying it4 ,the rice for it must be boiled sufficiently tender to be crushed easily to a smooth paste1 and it must be mashed with a strong wooden spoon against the sides of the stewpan until all the grains are broken4 ,it may then1 when cool1 be made like a raised pie with the hands1 and decorated with a design formed on it with a carrot cut into a point like a graver4 ,for a large casserole1 a pound of rice and a quart of gravy will be required3 a bit of bread is sometimes used in filling the mould1 cut to the shape1 and occupying nearly half the inside1 but always so as to leave a thick and compact crust in every part4 ,part of the rice which is scooped from the inside is sometimes mixed with the mince1 or other preparation1 with which the casserole is filled4 ,a ,,good ,,common ,,english ,,game ,,pie4 ,raise the flesh entire from the upper side of the best end of a well-kept neck of venison1 trim it to the length of the dish in which the pie is to be served1 and rub it with a mixture of salt1 cayenne1 pounded mace1 and nutmeg4 ,cut down into joints a fine young hare which has hung from eight to fourteen days1 bone the back and thighs1 and fill them with forcemeat ,no4 #a 7,chapter ,,viii41 page #aeg71 but put into it a double portion of butter1 and a small quantity of minced eschalots1 should their flavour be liked1 and the raw liver of the hare1 chopped small4 ,line the dish with a rich short crust 7see page #ccg71 lay the venison in the centre1 and the hare closely round and on it2 fill the vacant spaces with more forcemeat1 add a few spoonsful of well-jellied gravy1 fasten on the cover securely1 ornament it or not1 at pleasure1 and bake the pie for two hours in a well heated oven4 ,the remnants and bones of the hare and venison may be stewed down into a small quantity of excellent soup1 or with a less proportion of water into an admirable gravy1 part of which1 after having been cleared from fat1 may be poured into the pie4 ,the jelly1 added to its contents at first1 can be made1 when no such stock is at hand1 of a couple of pounds of shin of beef1 boiled down in a quart of water1 which must be reduced quite half1 and seasoned only with a good slice of lean ham1 a few peppercorns1 seven or eight cloves1 a blade of mace1 and a little salt4 ,one pound and a half of flour will be sufficient for the crust2 this1 when it is so preferred1 may be laid round the sides only of the dish1 instead of entirely over it4 ,the prime joints of a second hare may be substituted for the venison when it can be more easily procured2 but the pie made entirely of venison1 without the forcemeat1 will be far better4 ,baked #b hours4 ,obs4--,these same ingredients will make an excellent raised pie1 if the venison be divided and intermixed with the hare3 the whole should be highly seasoned1 and all the cavities filled with the forcemeat ,no4 #ah 7,chapter ,,viii471#aaf or with the truffled sausage-meat of page #bfc4 ,the top1 before the paste is laid over1 should be covered with slices of fat bacon1 or with plenty of butter1 to prevent the surface of the meat from becoming hard4 ,no liquid is to be put into the pie until after it is baked1 if at all4 ,it will require from half to a full hour more of the oven than if baked in a dish4 ,footnote #aaf3 ,the second or third forcemeat mentioned under this ,no4 7#ah71 would be the most appropriate for a game pie4 ,,modern ,,chicken ,,pie4 ,skin1 and cut down into joints a couple of fowls1 take out all the bones and season the flesh highly with salt1 cayenne1 pounded mace1 and nutmeg2 line a dish with a thin paste1 and spread over it a layer of the finest sausage-meat1 which has previously been moistened with a spoonful or two of cold water2 over this place closely together some of the boned chicken joints1 then more sausage-meat1 and continue thus with alternate layers of each1 until the dish is full2 roll out1 and fasten securely at the edges1 a cover half an inch thick1 trim off the superfluous paste1 make an incision in the top1 lay some paste leaves round it1 glaze the whole with yolk of egg1 and bake the pie from an hour and a half to two hours in a well heated oven4 ,lay a sheet or two of writing-paper over the crust1 should it brown too quickly4 ,minced herbs can be mixed with the sausage-meat at pleasure1 and a small quantity of eschalot also1 when its flavour is much liked3 it should be well moistened with water1 or the whole will be unpalatably dry4 ,the pie may be served hot or cold1 but we would rather recommend the latter4 ,a couple of very young tender rabbits will answer exceedingly well for it instead of fowls1 and a border1 or half paste in the dish will generally be preferred to an entire lining of the crust1 which is now but rarely served1 unless for pastry1 which is to be taken out of the dish or mould in which it is baked before it is sent to table4 ,a ,,common ,,chicken ,,pie4 ,prepare the fowls as for boiling1 cut them down into joints1 and season them with salt1 white pepper1 and nutmeg or pounded mace2 arrange them neatly in a dish bordered with paste1 lay amongst them three or four fresh eggs boiled hard1 and cut in halves1 pour in some cold water1 put on a thick cover1 pare the edge1 and ornament it1 make a hole in the centre1 lay a roll of paste1 or a few leaves round it1 and bake the pie in a moderate oven from an hour to an hour and a half4 ,the back and neck bones may be boiled down with a bit or two of lean ham1 to make a little additional gravy1 which can be poured into the pie after it is baked4 ,,pigeon ,,pie4 ,lay a border of fine puff paste round a large dish1 and cover the bottom with a veal cutlet or tender rump steak1 free from fat and bone1 and seasoned with salt1 cayenne1 and nutmeg or pounded mace2 prepare with great nicety as many freshly-killed young pigeons as the dish will contain in one layer2 put into each a slice or ball of butter1 seasoned with a little cayenne and mace1 lay them into the dish with the breasts downwards1 and between and over them put the yolks of half a dozen or more of hard-boiled eggs2 stick plenty of butter on them1 season the whole well with salt and spice1 pour in some cold water or veal broth for the gravy1 roll out the cover three-quarters of an inch thick1 secure it well round the edge1 ornament it highly1 and bake the pie for an hour or more in a well-heated oven4 ,it is a great improvement to fill the birds with small mushroom-buttons1 prepared as for partridges 7see ,chapter ,,xv473 their livers also may be put into them4 ,,beef-,,steak ,,pie4 ,from a couple to three pounds of rump-steak will be sufficient for a good family pie4 ,it should be well kept though perfectly sweet1 for in no form can tainted meat be more offensive than when it is enclosed in paste4 ,trim off the coarse skin1 and part of the fat should there be much of it 7many eaters dislike it altogether in pies1 and when this is the case every morsel should be carefully cut away74 ,if the beef should not appear very tender1 it may be gently beaten with a paste-roller until the fibre is broken1 then divided into slices half as large as the hand1 and laid into a dish bordered with paste4 ,it should be seasoned with salt and pepper1 or cayenne1 and sufficient water poured in to make the gravy1 and keep the meat moist4 ,lay on the cover1 and be careful always to brush the edge in every part with egg or cold water1 then join it securely to the paste which is round the rim1 trim both off close to the dish1 pass the point of the knife through the middle of the cover1 lay some slight roll or ornament of paste round it1 and decorate the border of the pie in any of the usual modes1 which are too common to require description4 ,send the pie to a well-heated1 but not fierce oven for about an hour and twenty minutes4 ,to make a richer beef-steak pie put bearded oysters in alternate layers with the meat1 add their strained liquor to a little good gravy in which the beards may be simmered for a few minutes to give it further flavour1 and make a light puff paste for the crust4 ,some caters like it seasoned with a small portion of minced onion or eschalot when the oysters are omitted4 ,mushrooms improve all meat-pies4 ,veal pies may be made by this receipt1 or by the second of those which follow4 ,slices of lean ham1 or parboiled ox-tongue1 may be added to them4 #a to #a-a_/b hour4 ,,common ,,mutton ,,pie4 ,a pound and a quarter of flour will make sufficient paste for a moderate-sized pie1 and two pounds of mutton freed from the greater portion of the fat will fill it4 ,butter a dish and line it with about half the paste rolled thin2 lay in the mutton evenly1 and sprinkle over it three-quarters of an ounce of salt1 and from half to a whole teaspoonful of pepper according to the taste2 pour in cold water to within an inch of the brim4 ,roll the cover1 which should be quite half an inch thick1 to the size of the dish2 wet the edges of the paste with cold water or white of egg1 be careful to close them securely1 cut them off close to the rim of the dish1 stick the point of the knife through the centre1 and bake the pie an hour and a quarter in a well-heated oven4 ,flour1 #a-a_/d lb42 minced suet rather less than #a_/b lb42 or1 butter1 #d oz41 and very pure lard1 #b or #c oz42 mutton1 #b lbs42 salt1 #c_/d oz42 pepper1 half to a whole teaspoonful2 water1 #a_/d pint3 #a-a_/d hour4 ,a ,,good ,,mutton ,,pie4 ,lay a half-paste of short or of puff crust round a buttered dish1 take the whole or part of a loin of mutton1 strip off the fat entirely1 and raise the flesh clear from the bones without dividing it1 then slice it into cutlets of equal thickness1 season them well with salt and pepper1 or cayenne1 and strew between the layers some finely-minced herbs mixed with two or three eschalots1 when the flavour of these last is liked2 or omit them1 and roll quite thin some good forcemeat 7which can be flavoured with a little minced eschalot at pleasure71 and lay it between the cutlets3 two or three mutton kidneys intermingled with the meat will greatly enrich the gravy2 pour in a little cold water1 roll the cover half an inch thick1 or more should the crust be short1 as it will not rise like puff paste1 close the pie very securely1 trim the edges even with the dish1 ornament the pie according to the taste1 make a hole in the centre1 and bake it from an hour and a half to a couple of hours4 ,the proportions of paste and meat may be ascertained by consulting the last receipt4 ,gravy made with part of the bones1 quite cleared from fat1 and left to become cold1 may be used to fill the pie instead of water4 ,,raised ,,pies4 ,illustration3 ,raised ,pie4 ,these may be made of any size1 and with any kind of meat1 poultry1 or game1 but the whole must be entirely free from bone4 ,when the crust is not to be eaten1 it is made simply with a few ounces of lard or butter dissolved in boiling water1 with which the flour is to be mixed 7with a spoon at first1 as the heat would be too great for the hands1 but afterwards with the fingers7 to a smooth and firm paste4 ,the ,french1 who excel greatly in this form of pie1#aag use for it a good crust which they call a pt brise 7see page #cdg71 and this is eaten usually with the meat which it contains4 ,in either case the paste must be sufficiently stiff to retain its form perfectly after it is raised1 as it will have no support to prevent its falling4 ,the celebrated ,monsieur ,ude gives the following directions for moulding it to a proper shape without difficulty2 and as inexperienced cooks generally find a little at first in giving a good appearance to these pies1 we copy his instructions for them3 8,take a lump of paste proportionate to the size of the pie you are to make1 mould it in the shape of a sugar loaf1 put it upright on the table1 then with the palms of your hands flatten the sides of it2 when you have equalized it all round and it is quite smooth1 squeeze the middle of the point down to half the height of the paste10 then hollow the inside by pressing it with the fingers1 and in doing this be careful to keep it in every part of equal thickness4 ,fill it1#aah roll out the cover1 egg the edges1 press them securely together1 make a hole in the centre1 lay a roll of paste round it1 and encircle this with a wreath of leaves1 or ornament the pie in any other way1 according to the taste2 glaze it with beaten yolk of egg1 and bake it from two to three hours in a well-heated oven if it be small1 and from four to five hours if it be large2 though the time must be regulated in some measure by the nature of the contents1 as well as by the size of the dish4 ,footnote #aag3 ,we remember having partaken of one which was brought from ,bordeaux1 and which contained a small boned ham of delicious flavour1 surmounted by boned partridges1 above which were placed fine larks likewise boned2 all the interstices were filled with super-excellent forcemeat1 and the whole1 being a solid mass of nourishing viands1 would have formed an admirable traveller's larder in itself4 ,footnote #aah3 ,for the mode of doing this1 see observations1 page #bec1 and ,chapter ,,xxxiv4 ,a ham must be boiled or stewed tender1 and freed from the skin and blackened parts before it is laid in2 poultry and game boned2 and all meat highly seasoned4 ,obs4--,we know not if we have succeeded in making the reader comprehend that this sort of pie 7with the exception of the cover1 for which a portion must at first be taken off7 is made from one solid lump of paste1 which1 after having been shaped into a cone1 as ,monsieur ,ude directs1 or into a high round1 or oval form1 is hollowed by pressing down the centre with the knuckles1 and continuing to knead the inside equally round with the one hand1 while the other is pressed close to the outside4 ,it is desirable that the mode of doing this should be once seen by the learner1 if possible1 as mere verbal instructions are scarcely sufficient to enable the quite-inexperienced cook to comprehend at once the exact form and appearance which should be given to the paste1 and some degree of expertness8 is always necessary to mould a pie of this kind well with the fingers only4 ,the first attempts should be made with very small pies1 which are less difficult to manage4 ,a ,,vol-,,au-,,vent4 7,,entr,e47 ,illustration ,this dish can be successfully made only with the finest and lightest puff-paste 7see feuilletage1 page #cde71 as its height1 which ought to be from four to five inches1 depends entirely on its rising in the oven4 ,roll it to something more than an inch in thickness1 and cut it to the shape and size of the inside of the dish in which it is to be served1 or stamp it out with a fluted tin of proper dimensions2 then mark the cover evenly about an inch from the edge all round1 and ornament it and the border also1 with a knife1 as fancy may direct2 brush yolk of egg quickly over them1 and put the vol-au-vent immediately into a brisk oven1 that it may rise well1 and be finely coloured1 but do not allow it to be scorched4 ,in from twenty to thirty minutes1 should it appear baked through1 as well as sufficiently browned1 draw it out1 and with the point of a knife detach the cover carefully where it has been marked1 and scoop out all the soft unbaked crumb from the inside of the vol-au-vent2 then turn it gently on to a sheet of clean paper1 to drain the butter from it4 ,at the instant of serving1 fill it with a rich fricassee of lobster1 or of sweetbreads1 or with turbot la crme1 or with the white part of cold roast veal cut in thin collops not larger than a shilling1 and heated in good white sauce with oysters 7see minced veal and oysters1 page #bea71 or with any other of the preparations which we shall indicate in their proper places1 and send it immediately to table4 ,the vol-au-vent1 as the reader will perceive1 is but the case1 or crust1 in which various kinds of delicate ragouts are served in an elegant form4 ,as these are most frequently composed of fish1 or of meats which have been already dressed1 it is an economical as well as an excellent mode of employing such remains4 ,the sauces in which they are heated must be quite thick1 for they would otherwise soften1 or even run through the crust4 ,this1 we ought to observe1 should be examined before it is filled1 and should any part appear too thin1 a portion of the crumb which has been taken out1 should be fastened to it with some beaten egg1 and the whole of the inside brushed lightly with more egg1 in order to make the loose parts of the vol-au-vent stick well together4 ,this method is recommended by an admirable and highly experienced cook1 but it need only be resorted to when the crust is not solid enough to hold the contents securely4 ,for moderate-sized vol-au-vent1 flour1 #a_/b lb42 butter1 #a_/b lb42 salt1 small saltspoonful2 yolk1 #a egg2 little water4 ,larger vol-au-vent1 #c_/d lb4 flour2 other ingredients in proportion3 baked #bj to #cj minutes4 ,obs4--,when the vol-au-vent is cut out with the fluted cutter1 a second1 some sizes smaller1 after being just dipped into hot water1 should be pressed nearly half through the paste1 to mark the cover4 ,the border ought to be from three-quarters of an inch to an inch and a half wide4 ,a ,,vol-,,au-,,vent ,,of ,,fruit4 7,,entremets47 ,after the crust has been made and baked as above1 fill it at the moment of serving with peaches1 apricots1 mogul1 or any other richly flavoured plums1 which have been stewed tender in syrup2 lift them from this1 and keep them hot while it is boiled rapidly almost to jelly2 then arrange the fruit in the vol-au-vent1 and pour the syrup over it4 ,for the manner of preparing it1 see compotes of fruit1 ,chapter ,,xxiv42 but increase the proportion of sugar nearly half1 that the juice may be reduced quickly to the proper consistency for the vol-au-vent4 ,skin and divide the apricots1 and quarter the peaches1 unless they should be very small4 ,,vol-,,au-,,vent ,,la ,,cr,,me4 7,,entremets47 ,after having raised the cover and emptied the vol-au-vent1 lay it on a sheet of paper1 and let it become cold4 ,fill it just before it is sent to table with fruit1 either boiled down to a rich marmalade1 or stewed as for the preceding vol-au-vent1 and heap well flavoured1 but not too highly sweetened1 whipped cream over it4 ,the edge of the crust may be glazed by sifting sugar over it1 when it is drawn from the oven1 and holding a salamander or red hot shovel above it2 or it may be left unglazed1 and ornamented with bright coloured fruit jelly4 ,,oyster ,,patties4#aai 7,,entr,e74 ,footnote #aai3 ,these patties should be made small1 with a thin crust1 and well filled with the oysters and their sauce4 ,the substitution of fried crumbs for the covers will vary them very agreeably4 ,for lobster patties1 prepare the fish as for a vol-au-vent but cut it smaller4 ,line some small pattypans with fine puff-paste1 rolled thin and to preserve their form when baked1 put a bit of bread into each2 lay on the covers1 pinch and trim the edges1 and send the patties to a brisk oven4 ,plump and beard from two to three dozens of small oysters2 mix very smoothly a teaspoonful of flour with an ounce of butter1 put them into a clean saucepan1 shake them round over a gentle fire1 and let them simmer for two or three minutes2 throw in a little salt1 pounded mace1 and cayenne1 then add1 by slow degrees1 two or three spoonsful of rich cream1 give these a boil1 and pour in the strained liquor of the oysters2 next1 lay in the fish1 and keep at the point of boiling for a couple of minutes4 ,raise the covers from the patties1 take out the bread1 fill them with the oysters and their sauce1 and replace the covers4 ,we have found it an improvement to stew the beards of the fish with a strip or two of lemon-peel1 in a little good veal stock for a quarter of an hour1 then to strain and add it to the sauce4 ,the oysters1 unless very small1 should be once or twice divided4 ,,common ,,lobster ,,patties4 ,prepare the fish for these as directed for fricasseed lobster1 ,chapter ,,ii41 increasing a little the proportion of sauce4 ,fill the patty-cases with the mixture quite hot1 and serve immediately4 ,,superlative ,,lobster-,,patties4 7,author's ,receipt47 ,illustration ,form into balls about half the size of a filbert either the cutlet-mixture or the pounded lobster of ,chapter ,,iii41 roll them in the sifted coral1 warm them through very gently1 have ready some hot patty-cases 7see page #cfa71 pour into each a small spoonful of rich white sauce1 or ,sauce l',aurore 7see page #aah71 lay the balls round the edge1 pile a larger one in the centre1 and serve the whole very quickly4 ,the ,dresden patties of page #chg may be thus filled4 ,,good ,,chicken ,,patties4 7,,entr,e47 ,raise the white flesh entirely from a young undressed fowl1 divide it once or twice1 and lay it into a small clean saucepan1 in which about an ounce of butter has been dissolved1 and just begins to simmer2 strew in a slight seasoning of salt1 mace1 and cayenne1 and stew the chicken very softly indeed for about ten minutes1 taking every precaution against its browning3 turn it into a dish with the butter1 and its own gravy1 and let it become cold4 ,mince it with a sharp knife2 heat it1 without allowing it to boil1 in a little good white sauce 7which may be made of some of the bones of the fowl71 and fill ready-baked patty-crusts1 or small vol-au-vents with it1 just before they are sent to table2 or stew the flesh only just sufficiently to render it firm1 mix it after it is minced and seasoned with a spoonful or two of strong gravy1 fill the patties1 and bake them from fifteen to eighteen minutes4 ,it is a great improvement to stew and mince a few mushrooms with the chicken4 ,the breasts of cold turkeys1 fowls1 partridges1 or pheasants1 or the white part of cold veal1 minced1 heated in a bchamel sauce1 will serve at once for patties3 they may also be made of cold game1 heated in an ,espagnole1 or in a good brown gravy4 ,,patties ,,la ,,pontife4 7,,entr,e47 7,a fast day1 or ,maigre dish47 ,mince1 but not very small1 the yolks of six fresh hard-boiled eggs2 mince also and mix with them a couple of fine truffles1#abj a large saltspoonful of salt1 half the quantity of mace and nutmeg1 and a fourth as much of cayenne4 ,moisten these ingredients with a spoonful of thick cream1 or bchamel maigre 7see page #aji71 or with a dessertspoonful of clarified butter2 line the patty-moulds1 fill them with the mixture1 cover1 and bake them from twelve to fifteen minutes in a moderate oven4 ,they are excellent made with the cream-crust of page #cdg4 ,footnote #abj3 ,the bottled ones will answer well for these4 ,yolks hard-boiled eggs1 #f2 truffles1 #b large2 seasoning of salt1 mace1 nutmeg1 and cayenne2 cream1 or bchamel maigre1 #a tablespoonful1 or clarified butter1 #a dessertspoonful3 baked moderate oven1 #ab to #ae minutes4 ,obs4--,a spoonful or two of jellied stock or gravy1 or of good white sauce1 converts these into admirable patties3 the same ingredients make also very superior rolls or cannelons4 ,for ,patties la ,cardinale1 small mushroom-buttons stewed as for partridges1 ,chapter ,,xiii41 before they are minced1 must be substituted for truffles2 and the butter in which they are simmered should be added with them to the eggs4 ,,excellent ,,meat ,,rolls4 ,pound1 as for potting 7see page #cje71 and with the same proportion of butter and of seasonings1 some half-roasted veal1 chicken1 or turkey4 ,make some forcemeat by the receipt ,no4 #a1 ,chapter ,,vi41 and form it into small rolls1 not larger than a finger2 wrap twice or thrice as much of the pounded meat equally round each of these1 first moistening it with a teaspoonful of water2 fold them in good puff-paste1 and bake them from fifteen to twenty minutes1 or until the crust is perfectly done4 ,a small quantity of the lean of a boiled ham may be finely minced and pounded with the veal1 and very small mushrooms1 prepared as for a partridge 7page #cbi71 may be substituted for the forcemeat4 ,,small ,,vols-,,au-,,vents1 ,,or ,,patty-,,cases4 ,illustration ,these are quickly and easily made with two round paste-cutters1 of which one should be little more than half the size of the other3 to give the pastry a better appearance1 they should be fluted4 ,roll out some of the lightest puff-paste to a half-inch of thickness1 and with the larger of the tins cut the number of patties required2 then dip the edge of the small shape into hot water1 and press it about half through them4 ,bake them in a moderately quick oven from ten to twelve minutes1 and when they are done1 with the point of a sharp knife1 take out the small rounds of crust from the tops1 and scoop all the crumb from the inside of the patties1 which may then be filled with shrimps1 oysters1 lobster1 chicken1 pheasant1 or any other of the ordinary varieties of patty meat1 prepared with white sauce4 ,fried crumbs may be laid over them instead of the covers1 or these last can be replaced4 ,for sweet dishes1 glaze the pastry1 and fill it with rich whipped cream1 preserve1 or boiled custard2 if with the last of these put it back into a very gentle oven until the custards are set4 ,,another ,,receipt ,,for ,,tartlets4 ,for a dozen tartlets1 cut twenty-four rounds of paste of the usual size1 and form twelve of them into rings by pressing the small cutter quite through them2 moisten these with cold water1 or white of egg1 and lay them on the remainder of the rounds of paste1 so as to form the rims of the tartlets4 ,bake them from ten to twelve minutes1 fill them with preserve while they are still warm1 and place over it a small ornament of paste cut from the remnants1 and baked gently of a light colour4 ,serve the tartlets cold1 or if wanted hot for table put them back into the oven for one minute after they are filled4 ,a ,,sefton1 ,,or ,,veal ,,custard4 ,pour boiling1 a pint of rich1 clear1 pale veal gravy on six fresh eggs1 which have been well beaten and strained3 sprinkle in directly the grated rind of a fine lemon1 a little cayenne1 some salt if needed1 and a quarter-teaspoonful of mace4 ,put a paste border round a dish1 pour in1 first two ounces of clarified butter1 and then the other ingredients2 bake the ,sefton in a very slow oven from twenty-five to thirty minutes1 or until it is quite firm in the middle1 and send it to table with a little good gravy4 ,very highly flavoured game stock1 in which a few mushrooms have been stewed1 may be used for this dish with great advantage in lieu of veal gravy2 and a sauce made of the smallest mushroom buttons1 may be served with it in either case4 ,the mixture can be baked in a whole paste1 if preferred so1 or in well buttered cups2 then turned out and covered with the sauce before it is sent to table4 ,rich veal or game stock1 #a pint2 fresh eggs1 #f2 rind1 #a lemon2 little salt and cayenne2 pounded mace1 #a_/d teaspoonful2 butter1 #b oz43 baked1 #be to #cj minutes1 slow oven4 ,,apple ,,cake1 ,,or ,,german ,,tart4 ,work together with the fingers1 ten ounces of butter and a pound of flour1 until they resemble fine crumbs of bread2 throw in a small pinch of salt1 and make them into a firm smooth paste with the yolks of two eggs and a spoonful or two of water4 ,butter thickly1 a plain tin cake1 or pie mould 7those which open at the sides1 see plate1 page #cdd1 are best adapted for the purpose72 roll out the paste thin1 place the mould upon it1 trim a bit to its exact size1 cover the bottom of the mould with this1 then cut a band the height of the sides1 and press it smoothly round them1 joining the edge1 which must be moistened with egg or water1 to the bottom crust2 and fasten upon them1 to prevent their separation1 a narrow and thin band of paste1 also moistened4 ,next1 fill the mould nearly from the brim with the following marmalade1 which must be quite cold when it is put in4 ,boil together1 over a gentle fire at first1 but more quickly afterwards1 three pounds of good apples with fourteen ounces of pounded sugar1 or of the finest ,lisbon1 the strained juice of a large lemon1 three ounces of fresh butter1 and a teaspoonful of pounded cinnamon1 or the lightly grated rind of a couple of lemons3 when the whole is perfectly smooth and dry1 turn it into a pan to cool1 and let it be quite cold before it is put into the paste4 ,in early autumn1 a larger proportion of sugar may be required1 but this can be regulated by the taste4 ,when the mould is filled1 roll out the cover1 lay it carefully over the marmalade that it may not touch it2 and when the cake is securely closed1 trim off the superfluous paste1 add a little pounded sugar to the parings1 spread them out very thin1 and cut them into leaves to ornament the top of the cake1 round which they may be placed as a sort of wreath4#aba ,bake it for an hour in a moderately brisk oven2 take it from the mould1 and should the sides not be sufficiently coloured put it back for a few minutes into the oven upon a baking tin4 ,lay a paper over the top1 when it is of a fine light brown1 to prevent its being too deeply coloured4 ,this cake should be served hot4 ,footnote #aba3 ,or1 instead of these1 fasten on it with a little white of egg1 after it is taken from the oven1 some ready-baked leaves of almond-paste 7see page #cee71 either plain or coloured4 ,paste3 flour1 #a lb42 butter1 #aj oz42 yolks of eggs1 #b2 little water4 ,marmalade3 apples1 #c lbs42 sugar1 #ad oz4 7more if needed72 juice of lemon1 #a2 rinds of lemons1 #b2 butter1 #c oz43 baked1 #a hour4 ,,tourte ,,meringu,e1 ,,or ,,tart ,,with ,,royal ,,icing4#abb ,footnote #abb3 ,the limits to which we are obliged to confine this volume1 compel us to omit many receipts which we would gladly insert2 we have1 therefore1 rejected those which may be found in almost every ,english cookery book1 for such as are1 we apprehend1 less known to the reader3 this will account for the small number of receipts for pies and fruit tarts to be found in the present chapter4 ,lay a band of fine paste round the rim of a tart-dish1 fill it with any kind of fruit mixed with a moderate proportion of sugar1 roll out the cover very evenly1 moisten the edges of the paste1 press them together carefully1 and trim them off close to the dish2 spread equally over the top1 to within rather more than an inch of the edge all round1 the whites of three fresh eggs beaten to a quite solid froth and mixed quickly at the moment of using them with three tablespoonsful of dry sifted sugar4 ,put the tart into a moderately brisk oven1 and when the crust has risen well and the icing is set1 either lay a sheet of writing-paper lightly over it1 or draw it to a part of the oven where it will not take too much colour4 ,this is now a fashionable mode of icing tarts1 and greatly improves their appearance4 ,bake half an hour4 ,a ,,good ,,apple ,,tart4 ,a pound and a quarter of apples weighed after they are pared and cored1 will be sufficient for a small tart1 and four ounces more for one of moderate size4 ,lay a border of ,english puff-paste1 or of cream-crust round the dish1 just dip the apples into water1 arrange them very compactly in it1 higher in the centre than at the sides1 and strew amongst them from three to four ounces of pounded sugar1 or more should they be very acid3 the grated rind and the strained juice of half a lemon will much improve their flavour4 ,lay on the cover rolled thin1 and ice it or not at pleasure4 ,send the tart to a moderate oven for about half an hour4 ,this may be converted into the old-fashioned creamed apple tart1 by cutting out the cover while it is still quite hot1 leaving only about an inch-wide border of paste round the edge1 and pouring over the apples when they have become cold1 from half to three-quarters of a pint of rich boiled custard4 ,the cover divided into triangular sippets1 was formerly stuck round the inside of the tart1 but ornamental leaves of pale puff-paste have a better effect4 ,well-drained whipped cream may be substituted for the custard1 and be piled high1 and lightly over the fruit4 ,,tart ,,of ,,very ,,young ,,green ,,apples4 7,,good47 ,take very young apples from the tree before the cores are formed1 clear off the buds and stalks1 wash them well1 and fill a tart-dish with them after having rolled them in plenty of sugar1 or strew layers of sugar between them2 add a very small quantity of water and bake the tart rather slowly1 that the fruit may be tender quite through4 ,it will resemble a green apricot-tart if carefully made4 ,we give this receipt from recollection1 having had the dish served often formerly1 and having found it very good4 ,,barberry ,,tart4 ,barberries1 with half their weight of fine brown sugar1 when they are thoroughly ripe1 and with two ounces more when they are not quite so1 make an admirable tart4 ,for one of moderate size1 put into a dish bordered with paste three quarters of a pound of barberries stripped from their stalks1 and six ounces of sugar in alternate layers2 pour over them three tablespoonsful of water1 put on the cover1 and bake the tart for half an hour4 ,another way of making it is1 to line a shallow tin pan with very thin crust1 to mix the fruit and sugar well together with a spoon before they are laid in1 and to put bars of paste across instead of a cover2 or it may be baked without either4#abc ,footnote #abc3 ,the ,french make their fruit-tarts generally thus1 in large shallow pans4 ,plums1 split and stoned 7or if of small kinds1 left entire71 cherries and currants freed from the stalks1 and various other fruits1 all rolled in plenty of sugar1 are baked in the uncovered crust2 or this is baked by itself1 and then filled afterwards with fruit previously stewed tender4 ,,the ,,lady',s ,,tourte1 ,,and ,,christmas ,,tourte ,,la ,,ch,,telaine4 ,illustration3 ,lady's ,tourte4 ,to make this ,tourte1 which1 when filled1 is of pretty appearance1 two paste-cutters are requisite1 one the size1 or nearly so1 of the inside of the dish in which the entremets is to be served1 the other not more than an inch in diameter1 and both of them fluted1 as will be seen by the engraving4 ,to make the paste for it1 throw a small half saltspoonful of salt into half a pound of the finest flour1 and break lightly into it four ounces of fresh butter1 which should be firm4 ,make these up smoothly with cold milk or water1 of which nearly a quarter of a pint will be sufficient1 unless the butter should be very hard1 when a spoonful or two more must be added4 ,roll the paste out as lightly as possible twice or thrice if needful1 to blend the butter thoroughly with it1 and each time either fold it in three by wrapping the ends over each other1 or fold it over and over like a roll pudding4 ,an additional ounce1 or even two1 of butter can be used for it when very rich pastry is liked1 but the tourte will not then retain its form so well4 ,roll it out evenly to something more than three-quarters of an inch in thickness1 and press the large cutter firmly through it2 draw away the superfluous paste1 and lay the tourte on a lightly floured baking-tin4 ,roll the remainder of the paste until it is less than a quarter of an inch thick1 and stamp out with the smaller cutter--of which the edge should be dipped into hot water1 or slightly encrusted with flour--as many rounds as will form the border of the tourte4 ,in placing them upon it1 lay the edge of one over the other just sufficiently to give a shell-like appearance to the whole2 and with the finger press lightly on the opposite part of the round to make it adhere to the under paste4 ,next1 with a sharp-pointed knife1 make an incision very evenly round the inside of the tourte nearly close to the border1 but be extremely careful not to cut too deeply into the paste4 ,bake it in a gentle oven1 from twenty to thirty minutes4 ,when it is done1 detach the crust from the centre1 where it has been marked with the knife1 take out part of the crumb1 fill the space high with apricot-jam1 or with any other choice preserve1 set it again for an instant into the oven1 and serve it hot or cold4 ,spikes of blanched almonds1 filberts1 or pistachio-nuts1 may be strewed over the preserve1 when they are considered an improvement2 and the border of the pastry may be glazed or ornamented to the fancy2 but if well made1 it will generally please in its quite simple form4 ,it may be converted into a delicious entre1 by filling it either with oysters1 or sliced sweetbreads1 stewed1 and served in thick1 rich1 white sauce1 or bchamel4 ,lobster also prepared and moulded as for the new lobster patties of page #cei1 will form a superior dish even to these4 ,obs4--,six ounces of flour1 and three of butter1 will make sufficient paste for this tourte1 when it is required only of the usual moderate size4 ,if richer paste be used for it1 it must have two or three additional turns or rollings to prevent its losing its form in the oven4 ,christmas ,tourte la ,chtelaine4--,make the case for this tourte as for the preceding one1 and put sufficient mincemeat to fill it handsomely into a jar1 cover it very securely with paste1 or with two or three folds of thick paper1 and bake it gently for half an hour or longer1 should the currants1 raisins1 c41 not be fully tender4 ,take out the inside of the tourte1 heap the hot mincemeat in it1 pour a little fresh brandy over2 just touch it with a strip of lighted writing-paper at the door of the dining-room1 and serve it in a blaze2 or if better liked so1 serve it very hot without the brandy1 and with ,devonshire cream as an accompaniment4#abd ,footnote #abd3 ,sufficient of cream for this purpose can easily be prepared from good milk4 ,,genoises ,,la ,,reine1 ,,or ,,her ,,majesty',s ,,pastry4 ,make some nouilles 7see page #e71 with the yolks of four fresh eggs1 and when they are all cut as directed there1 drop them lightly into a pint and a half of boiling cream 7new milk will answer quite as well1 or a portion of each may be used71 in which six ounces of fresh butter have been dissolved4 ,when these have boiled quickly for a minute or two1 during which time they must be stirred to prevent their gathering into lumps1 add a small pinch of salt1 and six ounces of sugar on which the rinds of two lemons have been rasped2 place the saucepan over a clear and very gentle fire1 and when the mixture has simmered from thirty to forty minutes take it off1 stir briskly in the yolks of six eggs1 and pour it out upon a delicately clean baking-tin which has been slightly rubbed in every part with butter2 level the nouilles with a knife to something less than a quarter of an inch of thickness1 and let them be very evenly spread2 put them into a moderate oven1 and bake them of a fine equal brown3 should any air-bladders appear1 pierce them with the point of a knife4 ,on taking the paste from the oven1 divide it into two equal parts2 turn one of these1 the underside uppermost1 on to a clean tin or a large dish1 and spread quickly over it a jar of fine apricot-jam1 place the other half upon it1 the brown side outwards1 and leave the paste to become cold2 then stamp it out with a round or diamond-shaped cutter1 and arrange the genoises tastefully in a dish4 ,this pastry will be found delicious the day it is baked1 but its excellence is destroyed by keeping4 ,peach1 green-gage1 or magnum bonum jam1 will serve for it quite as well as apricot4 ,we strongly recommend to our readers this preparation1 baked in pattypans1 and served hot2 or the whole quantity made into a pudding4 ,from the smaller ones a little may be taken out with a teaspoon1 and replaced with some preserve just before they are sent to table2 or they may thus be eaten cold4 ,nouilles of #d eggs2 cream or milk1 #a-a_/b pint2 butter1 #f oz42 sugar #f oz42 rasped rinds of lemons1 #b2 grain of salt3 #cj to #dj minutes4 ,yolks of eggs1 #f3 baked from #ae to #be minutes4 ,,almond ,,paste4 ,for a single dish of pastry1 blanch seven ounces of fine ,jordan almonds and one of bitter2#abe throw them into cold water as they are done1 and let them remain in it for an hour or two2 then wipe1 and pound them to the finest paste1 moistening them occasionally with a few drops of cold water1 to prevent their oiling2 next1 add to1 and mix thoroughly with them1 seven ounces of highly-refined1 dried1 and sifted sugar2 put them into a small preserving-pan1 or enamelled stewpan1 and stir them over a clear and very gentle fire until they are so dry as not to adhere to the finger when touched2 turn the paste immediately into an earthen pan or jar1 and when cold it will be ready for use4 ,footnote #abe3 ,when these are objected to1 use half a pound of the sweet almonds4 ,jordan almonds1 #g oz42 bitter almonds1 #a oz42 cold water1 #a tablespoonful2 sugar1 #g oz4 ,obs4--,the pan in which the paste is dried1 should by no means be placed upon the fire1 but high above it on a bar or trevet3 should it be allowed by accident to harden too much1 it must be sprinkled plentifully with water1 broken up quite small1 and worked1 as it warms1 with a strong wooden spoon to a smooth paste again4 ,we have found this method perfectly successful2 but1 if time will permit1 it should be moistened some hours before it is again set over the fire4 ,,tartlets ,,of ,,almond ,,paste4 ,butter slightly the smallest-sized pattypans1 and line them with the almond-paste rolled as thin as possible2 cut it with a sharp knife close to their edges1 and bake or rather dry the tartlets slowly at the mouth of a very cool oven4 ,if at all coloured1 they should be only of the palest brown2 but they will become perfectly crisp without losing their whiteness if left for some hours in a very gently-heated stove or oven4 ,they should be taken from the pans when two-thirds done1 and laid1 reversed1 upon a sheet of paper placed on a dish or board1 before they are put back into the oven4 ,at the instant of serving1 fill them with bright-coloured whipped cream1 or with peach or apricot jam2 if the preserve be used1 lay over it a small star or other ornament cut from the same paste1 and dried with the tartlets4 ,sifted sugar1 instead of flour1 must be dredged upon the board and roller in using almond paste4 ,leaves and flowers formed of it1 and dried gradually until perfectly crisp1 will keep for a long time in a tin box or canister1 and they form elegant decorations for pastry4 ,when a fluted cutter the size of the pattypans is at hand1 it will be an improvement to cut out the paste with it1 and then to press it lightly into them1 as it is rather apt to break when pared off with a knife4 ,to colour it1 prepared cochineal1 or spinach-green1 must be added to it in the mortar4 ,,fairy ,,fancies4 7,fantaisies de ,fes47 ,illustration ,illustration ,a small1 but very inexpensive set of tin cutters must be had for this pretty form of pastry1 which is1 however1 quite worthy of so slight a cost4 ,the short crust1 of page #cdi1 answers for it better than puff paste4 ,roll it thin and very even1 and with the larger tin1 shaped thus1 cut out a dozen or more of small sheets2 then1 with a couple of round cutters1 of which one should be about an inch in diameter1 and the other only half the size1 form four times the number of rings1 and lay them on the sheets in the manner shown in the engraving4 ,the easier mode of placing them regularly1 is to raise each ring without removing the small cutter from it1 to moisten it with a camel's hair brush dipped in white of egg1 and to lay it on the paste as it is gently loosened from the tin ,when all the pastry is prepared1 set it into a very gentle oven1 that it may become crisp and yet remain quite pale4 ,before it is sent to table1 fill the four divisions of each fantaisie with preserve of a different colour4 ,for example3 one ring with apple or strawberry jelly1 another with apricot jam1 a third with peach or green-gage1 and a fourth with raspberry jelly4 ,the cases may be iced1 and ornamented in various ways before they are baked4 ,they are prettiest when formed of white almond-paste1 with pink or pale green rings3 they may then be filled1 at the instant of serving1 with well-drained whipped cream4 ,,mincemeat4 7,author's ,receipt47 ,to one pound of an unsalted ox-tongue1 boiled tender and cut free from the rind1 add two pounds of fine stoned raisins1 two of beef kidney-suet1 two pounds and a half of currants well cleaned and dried1 two of good apples1 two and a half of fine ,lisbon sugar1 from half to a whole pound of candied peel according to the taste1 the grated rinds of two large lemons1 and two more boiled quite tender1 and chopped up entirely1 with the exception of the pips1 two small nutmegs1 half an ounce of salt1 a large teaspoonful of pounded mace1 rather more of ginger in powder1 half a pint of brandy1 and as much good sherry or ,madeira4 ,mince these ingredients separately1 and mix the others all well before the brandy and the wine are added2 press the whole into a jar or jars1 and keep it closely covered4 ,it should be stored for a few days before it is used1 and will remain good for many weeks4 ,some persons like a slight flavouring of cloves in addition to the other spices2 others add the juice of two or three lemons1 and a larger quantity of brandy4 ,the inside of a tender and well-roasted sirloin of beef will answer quite as well as the tongue4 ,of a fresh-boiled ox-tongue1 or inside of roasted sirloin1 #a lb42 stoned raisins and minced apples1 each #b lbs42 currants and fine ,lisbon sugar1 each #b-a_/b lbs42 candied orange1 lemon or citron rind1 #h to #af oz42 boiled lemons1 #b large2 rinds of two others1 grated2 salt1 #a_/b oz42 nutmegs1 #b small2 pounded mace1 #a large teaspoonful1 and rather more of ginger2 good sherry or ,madeira1 #a_/b pint2 brandy1 #a_/b pint4 ,obs4--,the lemons will be sufficiently boiled in from one hour to one and a quarter4 ,,superlative ,,mincemeat4 ,take four large lemons1 with their weight of golden pippins pared and cored1 of jar-raisins1 currants1 candied citron and orange-rind1 and the finest suet1 and a fourth part more of pounded sugar4 ,boil the lemons tender1 chop them small1 but be careful first to extract all the pips2 add them to the other ingredients1 after all have been prepared with great nicety1 and mix the whole well with from three to four glasses of good brandy4 ,apportion salt and spice by the preceding receipt4 ,we think that the weight of one lemon1 in meat1 improves this mixture2 or1 in lieu of it1 a small quantity of crushed macaroons added just before it is baked4 ,,mince ,,pies4 7,,entremets47 ,butter some tin pattypans well1 and line them evenly with fine puff paste rolled thin2 fill them with mincemeat1 moisten the edges of the covers1 which should be nearly a quarter of an inch thick1 close the pies carefully1 trim off the superfluous paste1 make a small aperture in the centre of the crust with a fork or the point of a knife1 ice the pies or not1 at pleasure1 and bake them half an hour in a well-heated but not fierce oven3 lay a paper over them when they are partially done1 should they appear likely to take too much colour4 #a_/b hour4 ,,mince ,,pies ,,royal4 7,,entremets47 ,add to half a pound of good mincemeat an ounce and a half of pounded sugar1 the grated rind and the strained juice of a large lemon1 one ounce of clarified butter1 and the yolks of four eggs2 beat these well together1 and half fill1 or rather more1 with the mixture1 some pattypans lined with fine paste2 put them into a moderate oven1 and when the insides are just set1 ice them thickly with the whites of the eggs beaten to snow1 and mixed quickly at the moment with four heaped tablespoonsful of pounded sugar2 set them immediately into the oven again1 and bake them slowly of a fine light brown4 ,mincemeat1 #a_/b lb42 sugar1 #a-a_/b oz42 rind and juice1 #a large lemon2 butter1 #a oz42 yolks1 #d eggs4 ,icing3 whites1 #d eggs2 sugar1 #d tablespoonsful4 ,,the ,,monitor',s ,,tart1 ,,or ,,tourte ,,la ,,judd4 ,put into an enamelled stewpan1 or into a delicately clean saucepan1 three quarters of a pound of well-flavoured apples1 weighed after they are pared and cored2 add to them from three to four ounces of pounded sugar1 an ounce and a half of fresh butter cut small1 and half a teaspoonful of pounded cinnamon1 or the lightly grated rind of a small lemon4 ,let them stand over1 or by the side of a gentle fire until they begin to soften1 and toss them now and then to mingle the whole well1 but do not stir them with a spoon2 they should all remain unbroken and rather firm4 ,turn them into a dish1 and let them become cold4 ,divide three-quarters of a pound of good light paste into two equal portions2 roll out one quite thin and round1 flour an oven-leaf and lay it on1 as the tart cannot so well be moved after it is made2 place the apples upon it in the form of a dome1 but leave a clear space of an inch or more round the edge2 moisten this with white of egg1 and press the remaining half of the paste 7which should be rolled out to the same size1 and laid carefully over the apples7 closely upon it3 they should be well secured1 that the syrup from the fruit may not burst through4 ,whisk the white of an egg to a froth1 brush it over the tart with a paste brush or a small bunch of feathers1 sift sugar thickly over1 and then strew upon it some almonds blanched and roughly chopped2 bake the tart in a moderate oven from thirty-five to forty-five minutes4 ,it may be filled with peaches1 or apricots1 half stewed like the apples1 or with cherries merely rolled in fine sugar2 or with the pastry cream of page #agc4 ,light paste1 #a_/b to #c_/d lb42 apples1 #ab oz42 butter1 #a-a_/b oz42 sugar1 #d oz42 glazing of egg and sugar2 some almonds3 #ce to #de minutes4 ,,pudding ,,pies4 7,,entremets47 ,this form of pastry 7or its name at least7 is1 we believe1 peculiar to the county of ,kent1 where it is made in abundance1 and eaten by all classes of people during ,lent4 ,boil for fifteen minutes three ounces of ground rice#abf in a pint and a half of new milk1 and when taken from the fire stir into it three ounces of butter and four of sugar2 add to these six well-beaten eggs1 a grain or two of salt1 and a flavouring of nutmeg or lemon-rind at pleasure4 ,when the mixture is nearly cold1 line some large pattypans or some saucers with thin puff paste1 fill them with it three parts full1 strew the tops thickly with currants which have been cleaned and dried1 and bake the pudding-pies from fifteen to twenty minutes in a gentle oven4 ,footnote #abf3 ,or rice-flour4 ,milk1 #a-a_/b pint2 ground rice1 #c oz43 #ae minutes4 ,butter1 #c oz42 sugar1 #a_/d lb42 nutmeg or lemon-rind2 eggs1 #f2 currants1 #d to #f oz43 #ae to #cj minutes4 ,,pudding ,,pies4 7,a commoner kind47 ,one quart of new milk1 five ounces of ground rice1 butter1 one ounce and a half 7or more71 four ounces of sugar1 half a small nutmeg grated1 a pinch of salt1 four large eggs1 and three ounces of currants4 ,,cocoa-,,nut ,,cheese-,,cakes4 7,,entremets47 7,jamaica ,receipt47 ,break carefully the shell of the nut1 that the liquid it contains may not escape4#abg ,take out the kernel1 pare thinly off the dark skin1 and grate the nut on a delicately clean grater2 put it1 with its weight of pounded sugar1 and its own milk1 or a couple of spoonsful or rather more of water1 into a silver or block-tin saucepan1 or a very small copper stewpan perfectly tinned1 and keep it gently stirred over a quite clear fire until it is tender3 it will sometimes require an hour's stewing to make it so4 ,when a little cooled1 add to the nut1 and beat well with it1 some eggs properly whisked and strained1 and the grated rind of half a lemon4 ,line some pattypans with fine paste1 put in the mixture1 and bake the cheese-cakes from thirteen to fifteen minutes4 ,footnote #abg3 ,this1 as we have elsewhere stated1 is best secured by boring the shell before it is broken4 ,the milk of the nut should never be used unless it be very fresh4 ,grated cocoa-nut1 #f oz42 sugar1 #f oz42 the milk of the nut1 or of water1 #b large tablespoonsful3 #a_/b to #a hour4 ,eggs1 #e2 lemon-rind1 #a_/b of #a3 #ac to #ae minutes4 ,obs4--,we have found the cheese-cakes made with these proportions very excellent indeed1 but should the mixture be considered too sweet1 another egg or two can be added1 and a little brandy also4 ,with a spoonful or two more of liquid too1 the nut would become tender in a shorter time4 ,,common ,,lemon ,,tartlets4 ,beat four eggs until they are exceedingly light1 add to them gradually four ounces of pounded sugar1 and whisk these together for five minutes2 strew lightly in1 if it be at hand1 a dessertspoonful of potato flour1 if not1 of common flour well dried and sifted1#abh then throw into the mixture by slow degrees1 three ounces of good butter1 which should be dissolved1 but only just lukewarm3 beat the whole well1 then stir briskly in1 the strained juice and the grated rind of one lemon and a half4 ,line some pattypans with fine puff-paste rolled very thin1 fill them two-thirds full1 and bake the tartlets about twenty minutes1 in a moderate oven4 ,footnote #abh3 ,a few ratifias1 or three or four macaroons rolled to powder1 or a stale sponge or ,naples biscuit or two1 reduced to the finest crumbs1 may be substituted for either of these3 more lemon1 too1 can be added to the taste4 ,eggs1 #d2 sugar1 #d oz42 potato-flour1 or common flour1 #a dessertspoonful2 butter1 #c oz42 juice and rind of #a-a_/b full-sized lemon3 baked #ae to #bj minutes4 ,,madame ,,werner',s ,,rosenvik ,,cheese-,,cakes4 ,blanch and pound to the finest possible paste1 four ounces of fine fresh ,jordan almonds1 with a few drops of lemon-juice or water1 then mix with them1 very gradually indeed1 six fresh1 and thoroughly well-whisked eggs2 throw in by degrees twelve ounces of pounded sugar1 and beat the mixture without intermission all the time3 add then the finely grated rinds of four small1 or of three large lemons1 and afterwards1 by very slow degrees1 the strained juice of all4 ,when these ingredients are perfectly blended1 pour to them in small portions1 four ounces of just liquefied butter 7six of clarified if exceedingly rich cheese-cakes are wished for71 and again whisk the mixture lightly for several minutes2 thicken it over the fire like boiled custard1 and either put it into small pans or jars for storing1#abi or fill with it1 one-third full1 some pattypans lined with the finest paste2 place lightly on it a layer of apricot1 orange1 or lemon-marmalade1 and on this pour as much more of the mixture4 ,bake the cheese-cakes from fifteen to twenty minutes in a moderate oven4 ,they are very good without the layer of preserve4 ,footnote #abi3 ,this preparation will make excellent fanchonettes1 or pastry-sandwiches4 ,it will not curdle if gently boiled for two or three minutes 7and stirred without ceasing71 and it may be long kept afterwards4 ,jordan almonds1 #d oz42 eggs1 #f2 sugar1 #ab oz42 rinds and strained juice of #d small1 or of #c quite large lemons2 butter1 #d oz4 7#f for rich cheese-cakes72 layers of preserve4 ,baked #ae to #bj minutes1 moderate oven4 ,,apfel ,,krapfen4 7,german ,receipt47 ,boil down three-quarters of a pound of good apples with four ounces of pounded sugar1 and a small glass of white wine1 or the strained juice of a lemon2 when they are stewed quite to a pulp1 keep them stirred until they are thick and dry2 then mix them gradually with four ounces of almonds1 beaten to a paste1 or very finely chopped1 two ounces of candied orange or lemon-rind shred extremely small1 and six ounces of jar raisins stoned and quartered3 to these the ,germans add a rather high flavouring of cinnamon1 which is a very favourite spice with them1 but a grating of nutmeg1 and some fresh lemon-peel1 are1 we think1 preferable for this composition4 ,mix all the ingredients well together2 roll out some butter-crust a full back-of-knife thickness1 cut it into four-inch squares1 brush the edges to the depth of an inch round with beaten egg1 fill them with the mixture1 lay another square of paste on each1 press them very securely together1 make1 with the point of a knife1 a small incision in the top of each1 glaze them or not at pleasure1 and bake them rather slowly1 that the raisins may have time to become tender4 ,they are very good4 ,the proportion of sugar must be regulated by the nature of the fruit2 and that of the almonds can be diminished when it is thought too much4 ,a delicious tart of the kind is made by substituting for the raisins and candied orange-rind1 two heaped tablespoonsful of very fine apricot jam4 ,,cr,,me ,,patissi,,re1 ,,or ,,pastry ,,cream4 ,to one ounce of fine flour add1 very gradually1 the beaten yolks of three fresh eggs2 stir to them briskly1 and in small portions at first1 three-quarters of a pint of boiling cream1 or of cream and new milk mixed2 then turn the whole into a clean stewpan1 and stir it over a very gentle fire until it is quite thick1 take it off1 and stir it well up and round2 replace it over the fire1 and let it just simmer from six to eight minutes2 pour it into a basin1 and add to it immediately a couple of ounces of pounded sugar1 one and a half of fresh butter1 cut small1 or clarified1 and a spoonful of the store mixture of page #aec1 or a little sugar which has been rubbed on the rind of a lemon4 ,the cream is rich enough for common use without further addition2 but an ounce and a half of ratifias1 crushed almost to powder with a paste-roller improves it much1 and they should be mixed with it for the receipt which follows4 ,flour1 #a oz42 yolks of eggs1 #c2 boiling cream1 or milk and cream mixed1 #c_/d pint3 just simmered1 #f to #h minutes4 ,butter1 #a-a_/b oz42 sugar1 #b oz42 little store-flavouring1 or rasped lemon-rind2 ratifias1 #a-a_/b oz4 ,obs4--,this is an excellent preparation1 which may be used for tartlets1 cannelons1 and other forms of pastry1 with extremely good effect4 ,,small ,,vols-,,au-,,vents1 ,,la ,,parisienne4 7,,entremets47 ,make some small vols-au-vents by the directions of page #cfa1 either in the usual way1 or with the rings of paste placed upon the rounds4 ,ice the edges as soon as they are taken from the oven1 by sifting fine sugar thickly on them1 and then holding a salamander or heated shovel over them1 until it melts and forms a sort of pale barley-sugar glaze4 ,have ready1 and quite hot1 some crme patissire1 made as above2 fill the vols-au-vents with it1 and send them to table instantly4 ,these will be found very good without the icing4 ,,pastry ,,sandwiches4 ,divide equally in two1 and roll off square and as thin as possible1 some rich puff paste2#acj lay one half on a buttered tin1 or copper oven-leaf1 and spread it lightly with fine currant1 strawberry or raspberry jelly2 lay the remaining half closely over1 pressing it a little with the rolling pin after the edges are well cemented together2 then mark it into divisions1 and bake it from fifteen to twenty minutes in a moderate oven4 ,footnote #acj3 ,almond-paste is sometimes substituted for this4 ,,lemon ,,sandwiches4 ,substitute for preserve1 in the preceding receipt1 the lemon cheesecake mixture of page #cgb1 with or without the almonds in it4 ,,fanchonnettes4 7,,entremets74 ,roll out very thin and square some fine puff paste1 lay it on a tin or copper oven-leaf1 and cover it equally to within something less than an inch of the edge with peach or apricot jam2 roll a second bit of paste to the same size1 and lay it carefully over the other1 having first moistened the edges with beaten egg1 or water2 press them together securely1 that the preserve may not escape2 pass a paste-brush or small bunch of feathers dipped in water over the top1 sift sugar thickly on it1 then with the back of a knife1 mark the paste into divisions of uniform size1 bake it in a well-heated but not fierce oven for twenty minutes1 or rather more1 and cut it while it is still hot1 where it is marked4 ,the fanchonnettes should be about three inches in length and two in width4 ,in order to lay the second crust over the preserve without disturbing it1 wind it lightly round the paste-roller1 and in untwisting it1 let it fall gently over the other part4 ,this is not the form of pastry called by the ,french fanchonnettes4 ,fine puff paste1 #a lb42 apricot or peach jam1 #d to #f oz43 baked #bj to #be minutes4 ,,jelly ,,tartlets1 ,,or ,,custards4 ,put four tablespoonsful of fine fruit-jelly into a basin1 and stir to it gradually twelve spoonsful of beaten egg2 if the preserve be rich and sweet1 no sugar will be required4 ,line some pans with paste rolled very thin1 fill them with the custard1 and bake them about ten minutes4#aca ,footnote #aca3 ,strawberry or raspberry jelly will answer admirably for these4 ,,strawberry ,,tartlets4 7,,good47 ,take a full half-pint of freshly-gathered strawberries1 without the stalks2 first crush1 and then mix them with two ounces and a half of powdered sugar2 stir to them by degrees four well-whisked eggs1 beat the mixture a little1 and put it into pattypans lined with fine paste3 they should be only three parts filled4 ,bake the tartlets from ten to twelve minutes4 ,,raspberry ,,puffs4 ,roll out thin some fine puff-paste1 cut it in rounds or squares of equal size1 lay some raspberry jam into each1 moisten the edges of the paste1 fold and press them together1 and bake the puffs from fifteen to eighteen minutes4 ,strawberry1 or any other jam will serve for them equally well4 ,,creamed ,,tartlets4 ,line some pattypans with very fine paste1 and put into each a layer of apricot jam2 on this pour some thick boiled custard1 or the pastry cream of page #cgc4 ,whisk the whites of a couple of eggs to a solid froth1 mix a couple of tablespoonsful of sifted sugar with them1 lay this icing lightly over the tartlets1 and bake them in a gentle oven from twenty to thirty minutes1 unless they should be very small1 when less time must be allowed for them4 ,,ramekins ,l',,ude1 ,,or ,,sefton ,,fancies4 ,roll out1 rather thin1 from six to eight ounces of fine cream-crust1 or feuilletage 7see page #cde72 take nearly or quite half its weight of grated ,parmesan1 or something less of dry white ,english cheese2 sprinkle it equally over the paste1 fold it together1 roll it out very lightly twice1 and continue thus until the cheese and crust are well mixed4 ,cut the ramekins with a small paste-cutter2 wash them with yolk of egg mixed with a little milk1 and bake them about fifteen minutes4 ,serve them very hot4 ,cream-crust1 or feuilletage1 #f oz42 ,parmesan1 #c oz42 or ,english cheese1 #b-a_/b oz43 baked #ab to #ae minutes4 ,illustration3 ,mould for large ,vols-au-vents or ,tourtes4 ,illustration3 ,paste ,pincers4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,chapter ,,xix4 ,souffls1 ,omlets1 c4 ,illustration ,,souffl,s4 ,,the admirable lightness#acb and delicacy of a well-made souffl render it generally a very favourite dish1 and it is now a fashionable one also4 ,it may be greatly varied in its composition1 but in all cases must be served the very instant it is taken from the oven2 and even in passing to the dining-room it should1 if possible1 be prevented from sinking by a heated iron or salamander held above it4 ,a common souffl-pan may be purchased for four or five shillings1 but those of silver or plated metal1 which are of the form shown at the commencement of this chapter1 are of course expensive2 the part in which the souffl is baked is placed within the more ornamental dish when it is drawn from the oven4 ,a plain1 round1 cake-mould1 with a strip of writing paper six inches high1 placed inside the rim1 will answer on an emergency to bake a souffl in4 ,the following receipt will serve as a guide for the proper mode of making it3 the process is always the same whether the principal ingredient be whole rice boiled very tender in milk and pressed through a sieve1 bread-crumbs soaked as for a pudding and worked through a sieve also1 arrow-root1 potato-flour1 or aught else of which light puddings in general are made4 ,footnote #acb3 ,this is given to every description of souffl in the same manner as to ,savoy or sponge-cakes1 by mingling gently with the other ingredients the whites of eggs whisked to a solid mass or snow froth1--that is to say1 that no portion of them must remain in a liquid state4 ,for the proper mode of preparing them1 see commencement of the chapter of ,cakes1 page #edj3 souffl-puddings are rendered light in the same manner1 and steamed instead of being boiled4 ,take from a pint and a half of new milk or of cream sufficient to mix four ounces of flour of rice to a perfectly smooth batter2 put the remainder into a very clean1 well-tinned saucepan or stewpan1 and when it boils1 stir the rice briskly to it2 let it simmer1 keeping it stirred all the time1 for ten minutes1 or more should it not be very thick2 then mix well with it two ounces of fresh butter1 one and a half of pounded sugar1 and the grated rind of a fine lemon 7or let the sugar which is used for it be well rubbed on the lemon before it is crushed to powder72 in two or three minutes take it from the fire1 and beat quickly and carefully to it by degrees the yolks of six eggs2 whisk the whites to a very firm solid froth1 and when the pan is buttered1 and all else quite ready for the oven1 stir them gently to the other ingredients2 pour the souffl immediately into the pan and place it in a moderate oven1 of which keep the door closed for a quarter of an hour at least4 ,when the souffl has risen very high1 is of a fine colour1 and quite done in the centre1 which it will be in from half to three-quarters of an hour1 send it instantly to table4 ,the exact time for baking it depends so much on the oven that it cannot be precisely specified4 ,we have known quite a small one not too much baked in forty-five minutes in an iron oven2 but generally less time will suffice for them3 the heat1 however1 should always be moderate4 ,new milk or cream1 #a-a_/b pint2 flour of rice1 #d oz42 fresh butter1 #b oz42 pounded sugar1 #a-a_/b oz42 eggs1 #f2 grain of salt2 rind1 #a lemon3 #cj to #de minutes4 ,obs4 #a4--,the souffl may be flavoured with vanilla1 orange-flowers1 or aught else that is liked4 ,chocolate and coffee also may be used for it with soaked bread3 a very strong infusion of the last1 and an ounce or two of the other1 melted with a little water1 are to be added to the milk and bread4 ,obs4 #b4--;,a souffl is commonly served in a dinner of ceremony as a remove of the second-course roast2 but a good plan for this1 as for a fondu1 is to have it quickly handed round1 instead of being placed upon the table4 ,,louise ,,franks' ,,citron ,,souffl4 ,to obtain the flavour of the citron-rind for this celebrated ,swedish souffl1 take a lump of sugar which weighs two ounces and a half1 and rub it on the fruit to extract the essence1 or should the citron not be sufficiently fresh to yield it by this means1 pare it off in the thinnest possible strips and infuse it by the side of the fire in the cream of which the souffl is to be made4 ,should the first method be pursued1 crush the sugar to powder and dry it a little before it is added to the other ingredients4 ,blend very smoothly two ounces of potato-flour with a quarter of a pint of milk1 and pour boiling to them a pint of good cream2 stir the mixture in a large basin or bowl until it thickens1 then throw in a grain of salt1 two ounces of fresh butter just dissolved in a small saucepan1 and the sugar which has been rubbed on the citron2 or should the rind have been pared1 the same weight some of which is merely pounded4 ,add next1 by degrees1 the thoroughly whisked yolks of six fresh eggs1 or seven should they be very small4 ,beat the whites lightly and quickly until they are sufficiently firm to remain standing in points when dropped from the whisk2 mix them with the other ingredients at the mouth of the oven1 but without beating them2 fill the souffl-pan less than half full2 set it instantly into the oven1 which should be gentle1 but not exceedingly slow1 close the door immediately1 and do not open it for fifteen or twenty minutes3 in from thirty to forty the souffl will be ready for table unless the oven should be very cool3 a fierce degree of heat will have a most unfavourable effect upon it4 ,rind of half citron 7that of a ,seville orange may be substituted on occasions72 sugar1 #b-a_/b oz42 cream1 #a pint2 potato-flour1 #b oz42 milk1 #a_/d pint2 butter1 #b oz42 yolks and white of #f large or of #g small eggs3 #cj to #dj minutes1 or more in very slow oven4 ,obs4--,the fresh citron would appear to be brought as yet but very sparingly into the ,english market1 though it may sometimes be procured of first-rate fruiterers4 ,nothing can well be finer than its highly aromatic flavour1 which is infinitely superior to that of any other fruit of its species that we have ever tasted4 ,we have had delicious preparations made too from the young green citron when extremely small1 of which we may have occasion to speak elsewhere4 ,a ,,fondu1 ,,or ,,cheese ,,souffl4 ,mix to a smooth batter1 with a quarter of a pint of new milk1 two ounces of potato-flour1 arrow-root1 or tous les mois2 pour boiling to them three-quarters of a pint more of milk1 or of cream in preference3 stir them well together1 and then throw in two ounces of butter cut small4 ,when this is melted1 and well-beaten into the mixture1 add the well-whisked yolks of four large or of five small eggs1 half a teaspoonful of salt1 something less of cayenne1 and three ounces of lightly-grated cheese1 ,parmesan or ,english1 or equal parts of both4 ,whisk the whites of the eggs to a quite firm and solid froth2 then proceed1 as for a souffl1 to mix and bake the fondu4 #bj minutes4 ,,observations ,,on ,,omlets1 ,,fritters1 ,c4 ,the composition and nature of a souffl1 as we have shown1 are altogether different1 but there is no difficulty in making good omlets1 pancakes1 or fritters2 and as they may be expeditiously prepared and served1 they are often a very convenient resource when1 on short notice1 an addition is required to a dinner4 ,the eggs for all of them should be well and lightly whisked2 the lard for frying batter should be extremely pure in flavour1 and quite hot when the fritters are dropped in2 the batter itself should be smooth as cream1 and it should be briskly beaten the instant before it is used4 ,all fried pastes should be perfectly drained from the fat before they are served1 and sent to table promptly when they are ready4 ,eggs may be dressed in a multiplicity of ways1 but are seldom more relished in any form than in a well-made and expeditiously served omlet4 ,this may be plain1 or seasoned with minced herbs and a very little eschalot1 when the last is liked1 and is then called an 8,omlette aux fines herbes20 or it may be mixed with minced ham1 or grated cheese2 in any case1 it should be light1 thick1 full-tasted1 and fried only on one side2 if turned in the pan1 as it frequently is in ,england1 it will at once be flattened and rendered tough4 ,should the slight rawness which is sometimes found in the middle of the inside1 when the omlet is made in the ,french way1 be objected to1 a heated shovel1 or a salamander1 may be held over it for an instant1 before it is folded on the dish4 ,the pan for frying it should be quite small2 for if it be composed of four or five eggs only1 and then put into a large one1 it will necessarily spread over it and be thin1 which would render it more like a pancake than an omlet2 the only partial remedy for this1 when a pan of proper size cannot be had1 is to raise the handle of it high1 and to keep the opposite side close down to the fire1 which will confine the eggs into a smaller space4 ,no gravy should be poured into the dish with it1 and indeed1 if properly made1 it will require none4 ,lard is preferable to butter for frying batter1 as it renders it lighter2 but it must not be used for omlets4 ,a ,,common ,,omlet4 ,six eggs are sufficient for an omlet of moderate size4 ,let them be very fresh2 break them singly and carefully2 clear them in the way we have already pointed out in the introduction to boiled puddings1 or when they are sufficiently whisked pour them through a sieve1 and resume the beating until they are very light4 ,add to them from half to a whole teaspoonful of salt1 and a seasoning of pepper4 ,dissolve in a small frying-pan a couple of ounces of butter1 pour in the eggs1 and as soon as the omlet is well risen and firm throughout1 slide it on to a hot dish1 fold it together like a turnover1 and serve it immediately2 from five to seven minutes will fry it4 ,for other varieties of the omlet1 see the observations which precede this4 ,eggs1 #e2 butter1 #b oz42 seasoning of salt and pepper3 #e to #g minutes4 ,,an ,,omlette ,,souffl4 ,,second ,,course ,,remove ,,of ,,roast4#acc ,footnote #acc3 ,served also as an entremets4 ,separate1 as they are broken1 the whites from the yolks of six fine fresh eggs2 beat these last thoroughly1 first by themselves and then with four tablespoonsful of dry1 white sifted sugar1 and the rind of half a lemon grated on a fine grater4 ,whisk the whites to a solid froth1 and just before the omlet is poured into the pan1 mix them well1 but lightly1 with the yolks4 ,put four ounces of fresh butter into a very small delicately clean omlet or frying pan1 and as soon as it is all dissolved1 add the eggs and stir them round that they may absorb it entirely4 ,when the under side is just set1 turn the omlet into a well-buttered dish1 and send it to a tolerably brisk oven4 ,from five to ten minutes will bake it2 and it must be served the instant it is taken out2 carried1 indeed1 as quickly as possible to table from the oven4 ,it will have risen to a great height1 but will sink and become heavy in a very short space of time3 if sugar be sifted over it1 let it be done with the utmost expedition4 ,eggs1 #f2 sugar1 #d tablespoonsful2 rind1 #a_/b lemon2 butter1 #d oz43 omlet baked1 #e to #aj minutes4 ,obs4--,this omlette may be served on a layer of apricot-marmalade which must be spread over the dish in which it is to be baked1 and sent to table before the omlette is turned into it4 ,,plain ,,common ,,fritters4 ,mix with three well-whisked eggs a quarter of a pint of milk1 and strain them through a fine sieve2 add them gradually to three large tablespoonsful of flour1 and thin the batter with as much more milk as will bring it to the consistence of cream2 beat it up thoroughly at the moment of using it1 that the fritters may be light4 ,drop it in small portions from a spouted jug or basin into boiling lard2 when lightly coloured on one side1 turn the fritters1 drain them well from the lard as they are lifted out1 and serve them very quickly4 ,they are eaten generally with fine sugar1 and orange or lemon juice3 the first of these may be sifted quickly over them after they are dished1 and the oranges or lemons halved or quartered1 and sent to table with them4 ,the lard used for frying them should be fresh and pure-flavoured3 it renders them more crisp and light than butter1 and is1 therefore1 better suited to the purpose4 ,these fritters may be agreeably varied by mingling with the batter just before it is used two or three ounces of well cleaned and well dried currants1 or three or four apples of a good boiling kind not very finely minced4 ,double the quantity of batter will be required for a large dish4 ,eggs1 #c2 flour1 #c tablespoonsful2 milk1 #a_/d to #a_/b pint4 ,,pancakes4 ,these may be made with the same batter as fritters1 if it be sufficiently thinned with an additional egg or two1 or a little milk or cream1 to spread quickly over the pan3 to fry them well1 this ought to be small4 ,when the batter is ready1 heat the pan over a clear fire and rub it with butter in every part1 then pour in sufficient batter to spread over it entirely1 and let the pancake be very thin3 in this case it will require no turning1 but otherwise it must be tossed over with a sudden jerk of the pan1 in which the cook who is not somewhat expert will not always succeed2 therefore the safer plan is to make them so thin that they will not require this4 ,keep them hot before the fire or in the stove-oven until a sufficient number are ready to send to table1 then proceed with a second supply1 as they should always be quickly served4 ,either pile them one on the other with sugar strewed between1 or spread quickly over them1 as they are done1 some apricot or other good preserve1 and roll them up3 in the latter case1 they may be neatly divided and dished in a circle4 ,clotted cream is sometimes sent to table with them4 ,a richer kind of pancake may be made with a pint of cream1 or of cream and new milk mixed1 five eggs or their yolks only1 a couple of ounces of flour1 a little pounded cinnamon or lemon-rind rasped on sugar and scraped into them1 with two ounces more of pounded sugar1 and two ounces of clarified butter3 a few ratifias rolled to powder may be added at pleasure1 or three or four macaroons4 ,from #d to #e minutes4 ,,fritters ,,of ,,cake ,,and ,,pudding4 ,cut plain pound1 or rice cake1 or rich seed cake1 into small square slices half an inch thick2 trim away the crust1 fry them slowly a light brown in a small quantity of fresh butter1 and spread over them when done a layer of apricot-jam1 or of any other preserve1 and serve them immediately4 ,these fritters are improved by being moistened with a little good cream before they are fried3 they must then be slightly floured4 ,cold plum-pudding sliced down as thick as the cake1 and divided into portions of equal size and good form1 then dipped into ,french or ,english batter and gently fried1 will also make an agreeable variety of fritter4 ,orange marmalade and ,devonshire cream may be served in separate layers on the seed cake fritters4 ,the whole of the above may be cut of uniform size and shaped with a round cake-cutter4 ,,mincemeat ,,fritters4 ,with half a pound of mincemeat mix two ounces of fine bread-crumbs 7or a tablespoonful of flour71 two eggs well beaten1 and the strained juice of half a small lemon4 ,mix these well1 and drop the fritters with a dessertspoon into plenty of very pure lard or fresh butter2 fry them from seven to eight minutes1 drain them on a napkin or on white blotting paper1 and send them very hot to table3 they should be quite small4 ,mincemeat1 #a_/b lb42 bread-crumbs1 #b oz4 7or flour1 #a tablespoonful72 eggs1 #b2 juice of #a_/b lemon3 #g to #h minutes4 ,,venetian ,,fritters4 7,very good47 ,wash and drain three ounces of whole rice1 put it into a full pint of cold milk1 and bring it very slowly to boil2 stir it often1 and let it simmer gently until it is quite thick and dry4 ,when about three parts done1 add to it two ounces of pounded sugar1 and one of fresh butter1 a grain of salt1 and the grated rind of half a small lemon4 ,let it cool in the saucepan1 and when only just warm1 mix with it thoroughly three ounces of currants1 four of apples chopped fine1 a teaspoonful of flour1 and three large or four small well-beaten eggs4 ,drop the mixture in small fritters1 fry them in butter from five to seven minutes1 and let them become quite firm on one side before they are turned3 do this with a slice4 ,drain them as they are taken up1 and sift white sugar over them after they are dished4 ,whole rice1 #c oz42 milk1 #a pint2 sugar1 #b oz42 butter1 #a oz42 grated rind of #a_/b lemon2 currants1 #c oz42 minced apples1 #d oz42 flour1 #a teaspoonful2 a little salt2 eggs1 #c large1 or #d small3 #e to #g minutes4 ,,rhubarb ,,fritters4 ,the rhubarb for these should be of a good sort1 quickly grown1 and tender4 ,pare1 cut it into equal lengths1 and throw it into the ,french batter of page #acj2 with a fork lift the stalks separately1 and put them into a pan of boiling lard or butter3 in from five to six minutes they will be done4 ,drain them well and dish them on a napkin1 or pile them high without one1 and strew sifted sugar plentifully over them4 ,they should be of a very light brown1 and quite dry and crisp4 ,the young stalks look well when left the length of the dish in which they are served1 and only slightly encrusted with the batter1 through which they should be merely drawn4 #e to #f minutes4 ,,apple1 ,,peach1 ,,apricot1 ,,or ,,orange ,,fritters4 ,pare and core without dividing the apples1 slice them in rounds the full size of the fruit1 dip them into the same batter as that directed for the preceding fritters1 fry them a pale brown1 and let them be very dry4 ,serve them heaped high upon a folded napkin1 and strew sifted sugar over them4 ,after having stripped the outer rind from the oranges1 remove carefully the white inner skin1 and in slicing them take out the pips2 then dip them into the batter and proceed as for the apple fritters4 ,the peaches and apricots should be merely skinned1 halved1 and stoned before they are drawn through the batter1 unless they should not be fully ripe1 when they must first be stewed tender in a thin syrup4 #h to #ab minutes ,,brioche ,,fritters4 ,the brioche-paste1#acd when good1 makes very superior cannelons and fritters3 it is1 we should say1 better in this form than in that of the bun or cake1 in which it is seen so commonly abroad4 ,make it1 for the fritters1 into very small balls2 roll them quite thin1 put a teaspoonful or less of rich preserve into each1 moisten the edges and fold the paste together securely1 or with a small tin shape cut as many rounds of the brioche as are wanted1 place some preserve in the centre of one half of these1 moisten the edges1 lay the remainder lightly over them1 press them carefully together and restore them to a good form with the tin-cutter1 by trimming them with it to their original size2 glide them gently into a pan of boiling lard1 and fry them from four and a half to five minutes4 ,serve them very hot1 crisp1 and dry1 piled on a folded napkin4 ,the cannelons are made like those of paste1 and are very good4 ,they are sometimes filled with lemon-cheesecake mixture1 or with ,madame ,werner's 7see ,chapter ,,xviii47 ,footnote #acd3 ,for this see page #cdg4 ,fritters1 #d-a_/b to #e minutes2 cannelons1 #e to #f minutes4 ,,potato ,,fritters4 7,,entremets47 ,the same mixture as for potato puddings1 ,chapter ,,xxi41 if dropped in small portions into boiling butter1 and fried until brown on both sides1 will make potato-fritters4 ,half the proportion of ingredients will be quite sufficient for a dish of these4 ,,lemon ,,fritters4 7,,entremets47 ,mix with six ounces of very fine bread-crumbs four of beef suet minced as small as possible1 four ounces of pounded sugar1 a small tablespoonful of flour1 four whole eggs well and lightly whisked1 and the grated rind of one large or of two small lemons1 with half or the whole of the juice1 at choice2 but before this last is stirred in1 add a spoonful or two of milk or cream if needed4 ,fry the mixture in small fritters for five or six minutes4 ,,cannelons4 7,,entremets47 ,illustration ,roll out very thin and evenly some fine puff-paste into a long strip of from three to four inches wide1 moisten the surface with a feather dipped in white of egg1 and cut it into bands of nearly two inches wide2 lay some apricot or peach marmalade equally along these1 and fold the paste twice over it1 close the ends carefully1 and when all are ready1 slide them gently into a pan of boiling lard2#ace as soon as they begin to brown1 raise the pan from the fire that they may not take too much colour before the paste is done quite through4 ,five minutes will fry them4 ,drain them well1 and dry them on a soft cloth before the fire2 dish them on a napkin1 and place one layer crossing another1 or merely pile them high in the centre4 ,if well made1 and served of a light brown and very dry1 these cannelons are excellent3 when lard is objected to butter may be used instead1 but the paste will then be somewhat less light4 ,only lard of the purest quality will answer for the purpose4 ,footnote #ace3 ,cannelons may be either baked or fried3 if sent to the oven1 they may first be glazed with white of egg and sugar4 #e minutes4 ,,cannelons ,,of ,,brioche ,,paste4 7,,entremets47 ,proceed exactly as for the cannelons above1 substituting the brioche for the puff-paste1 and rolling it as thin as possible1 as it swells very much in the pan4 ,fine sugar may be sifted over these after they are dried and dished4 #d or #e minutes4 ,,croquettes ,,of ,,rice4 7,,entremets47 ,illustration3 ,croquettes4 ,wipe very clean1 in a dry cloth1 seven ounces of rice1 put it into a clean stewpan1 and pour on it a quart of new milk2 let it swell gently by the side of the fire1 and stir it often that it may not stick to the pan1 nor burn2 when it is about half done1 stir to it five ounces of pounded sugar1 and six bitter almonds beaten extremely fine3 the thin rind of half a fresh lemon may be added in the first instance4 ,the rice must be simmered until it is soft1 and very thick and dry2 it should then be spread on a dish1 and left until cold1 when it is to be rolled into small balls1 which must be dipped into beaten egg1 and then covered in every part with the finest bread-crumbs4 ,when all are ready1 fry them a light brown in fresh butter1 and dry them well before the fire1 upon a sieve reversed and covered with a very soft cloth1 or with a sheet of white blotting paper4 ,pile them in a hot dish1 and send them to table quickly4 ,rice1 #g oz42 milk1 #a quart2 rind of lemon3 #c_/d hour4 ,sugar1 #e oz4 bitter almonds1 #f3 #dj to #fj minutes1 or more4 ,fried1 #e to #g minutes4 ,,finer ,,croquettes ,,of ,,rice4 7,,entremets47 ,swell the rice in thin cream1 or in new milk strongly flavoured with vanilla or cocoa-nut2 add the same ingredients as in the foregoing receipt1 and when the rice is cold1 form it into balls1 and with the thumb of the right hand hollow them sufficiently to admit in the centre a small portion of peach jam1 or of apricot marmalade2 close the rice well over it2 egg1 crumb1 and fry the croquettes as usual4 ,as1 from the difference of quality1 the same proportions of rice and milk will not always produce the same effect1 the cook must use her discretion in adding1 should it be needed1 sufficient liquid to soften the rice perfectly3 but she must bear in mind that if not boiled extremely thick and dry1 it will be difficult to make it into croquettes4#acf ,footnote #acf3 ,we must repeat here what we have elsewhere stated as the result of many trials of it1 that good rice will absorb and become tender with three times its own bulk or measure of liquid4 ,thus1 an exact half pint 7or half pound7 will require a pint and a half1 with an extremely gentle degree of heat1 to convert it into a thoroughly soft but firm mass2 which would1 perhaps1 be rather too dry for croquettes4 ,a pint of milk to four ounces of rice1 if well managed1 would answer better4 ,,savoury ,,croquettes ,,of ,,rice4 7,,entr,e47 ,these are made with the same preparation as the casserole of rice of ,chapter ,,xviii41 but it must be boiled very dry1 and left to become quite cold before it is used4 ,a few spoonsful of rich white sauce stirred into it when it is nearly tender1 will improve it much4 ,form and hollow the croquettes as directed in the last receipt2 fill them with a small portion of minced fowl1 partridge1 or pheasant in a thick sauce1 or with a stewed oyster or two cut in quarters2 close the rice perfectly over them2 egg1 and crumb the croquettes1 fry and serve them garnished with crisped parsley4 ,french cooks mix sometimes a little grated ,parmesan cheese with the rice at the moment it is taken from the fire1 and roll the croquettes in more after they are egged2 they press this on and dip them again in egg1 and then into the crumbs4 ,raise the pan high above the fire when the croquettes are lightly browned1 that they may heat through2 then heighten the colour1 and lift them out immediately4 ,,rissoles4 7,,entr,e47 ,this is the ,french name for small fried pastry of various forms1 filled with meat or fish previously cooked2 they may be made with brioche1 or with light puff-paste1 either of which must be rolled extremely thin4 ,cut it with a small round cutter fluted or plain2 put a little rich mince1 or good pounded meat1 in the centre1 and moisten the edges1 and press them securely together that they may not burst open in the frying4 ,the rissoles may be formed like small patties1 by laying a second round of paste over the meat1 or like cannelons2 they may1 likewise1 be brushed with egg1 and sprinkled with vermicelli1 broken small1 or with fine crumbs4 ,they are sometimes made in the form of croquettes1 the paste being gathered round the meat1 which must form a ball4#acg ,footnote #acg3 ,if our space will permit1 more minute directions for these1 and other small dishes of the kind1 shall be given in the chapter of ,foreign ,cookery4 ,in frying them1 adopt the same plan as for the croquettes1 raising the pan as soon as the paste is lightly coloured4 ,serve all these fried dishes well drained1 and on a napkin4 ,from #e to #g minutes1 or less4 ,,very ,,savoury ,,english ,,rissoles4 7,,entr,e47 ,make the forcemeat ,no4 #a1 ,chapter ,,viii41 sufficiently firm with unbeaten yolk of egg1 to roll rather thin on a well-floured board2 cut it into very small rounds1 put a little pounded chicken in the centre of one half1 moistening the edges with water1 or white of egg1 lay the remaining rounds over these1 close them securely1 and fry them in butter a fine light brown2 drain and dry them well1 and heap them in the middle of a hot dish1 upon a napkin folded flat3 these rissoles may be egged and crumbed before they are fried4 ,,small ,,fried ,,bread ,,patties1 ,,or ,,croustades ,,of ,,various ,,kinds4 ,these may be either sweet or savoury1 and many of them may be so promptly prepared1 that they offer a ready resource when an extra dish is unexpectedly required4 ,they should be carefully fried very crisp1 and of a fine equal gold colour1 either in clarified marrow1 for which we give our own receipt1 or in really good butter4 ,,dresden ,,patties1 ,,or ,,croustades4 7,very delicate47 ,pare the crust neatly from one or two ,french rolls1 slice off the ends1 and divide the remainder into as many patties as the size of the rolls will allow2 hollow them in the centre1 dip them into milk or thin cream1 and lay them on a drainer over a dish2 pour a spoonful or two more of milk over them at intervals1 but not sufficient to cause them to break2 brush them with egg1 rasp the crust of the rolls over them1 fry and drain them well1 fill them with a good mince1 or with stewed mushrooms or oysters1 and serve them very hot upon a napkin2 they may be filled for the second course with warm apricot marmalade1 cherry-jam1 or other good preserve4 ,this receipt came to us direct from ,dresden1 and on testing it we found it answer excellently1 and inserted it in an earlier edition of the present work4 ,we name this simply because it has been appropriated1 with many other of our receipts1 by a contemporary writer without a word of acknowledgment4 ,,to ,,prepare ,,beef ,,marrow ,,for ,,frying ,,croustades1 ,,savoury ,,toasts1 ,c4 ,at a season when butter of pure flavour is often procured with difficulty1 beef-marrow1 carefully clarified1 is a valuable substitute for it2 and1 as it is abundantly contained in the joints which are in constant request for soup-making1 it is of slight comparative cost in a well managed kitchen4 ,it is often thrown into the stock-pot by careless or indolent cooks1 instead of being rendered available for the many purposes to which it is admirably adapted4 ,take it from the bones as fresh as possible1 put it into a white jar1 and melt it with a very gentle degree of heat at the mouth of the oven1 or by the side of the stove1 taking all precaution to prevent its being smoked or discoloured2 strain it off1 through a very fine sieve or muslin1 into a clean pan or pans1 and set it aside for use4 ,it will be entirely flavourless if prepared with due care and attention2 but1 if dissolved with too great a degree of heat1 it will acquire the taste almost of dripping4 ,a small quantity of fine salt may be sprinkled into the pan with it when it is used for frying4 ,,small ,,croustades1 ,,or ,,bread ,,patties1 ,,dressed ,,in ,,marrow4 7,author's ,receipt47 ,cut very evenly1 from a firm stale loaf1 slices nearly an inch and a half thick1 and with a plain or fluted paste-cutter of between two and three inches wide press out the number of patties required1 loosening them gently from the tin1 to prevent their breaking2 then1 with a plain cutter1 scarcely more than half the size1 mark out the space which is afterwards to be hollowed from it4 ,melt some clarified beef-marrow in a small saucepan or frying-pan1 and1 when it begins to boil1 put in the patties1 and fry them gently until they are equally coloured of a pale golden brown4 ,in lifting them from the pan1 let the marrow 7or butter7 drain well from them2 take out the rounds which have been marked on the tops1 and scoop out part of the inside crumb1 but leave them thick enough to contain securely the gravy of the preparation put into them4 ,fill them with any good patty-meat1 and serve them very hot on a napkin4 ,obs4--,these croustades are equally good if dipped into clarified butter or marrow1 and baked in a tolerably quick oven4 ,it is well1 in either case1 to place them on a warm sheet of double white blotting-paper while they are being filled1 as it will absorb the superfluous fat4 ,a rich mince1 with a thick1 well-adhering sauce1 either of mutton and mushrooms1 or oysters1 or with fine herbs and an eschalot or two2 or of venison1 or hare1 or partridges1 may be appropriately used for them4 ,,small ,,croustades ,,la ,,bonne ,,maman4 7,the ,grandmama's ,patties47 ,prepare the croustades as above1 or use for them ,french rolls of very even shape1 cut in thick equal slices4 ,if quite round1 the crust may be left on2 mark each slice with a small cutter in the centre1 dip the croustades into butter or marrow1 fry them lightly1 or bake them without permitting them to become very hard2 empty1 and then fill them2 dish them without a napkin1 and pour some good brown gravy round1 but not over them4 ,obs4--,from being cooked without butter1 these and the preceding patties are adapted to a ,jewish table4 ,,curried ,,toasts ,,with ,,anchovies4 ,fry lightly1 in good butter1 clarified marrow1 or very pure olive oil1 some slices of bread1 free from crust1 of about half an inch thick1 and two inches and a half square2 lift them on to a dish1 and spread a not very thick layer of ,captain ,white's currie-paste on the top2 place them in a gentle oven for three or four minutes1 then lay two or three fillets of anchovies on each1 replace them in the oven for a couple of minutes1 and send them immediately to table4 ,their pungency may be heightened by the addition of cayenne pepper1 when a very hot preparation is liked4 ,obs4--,we have spoken but slightly in our chapter of curries of ,captain ,white's currie-paste1 though for many years we have had it used in preference to any other1 and always found it excellent4 ,latterly1 however1 it has been obtained with rather less facility than when attention was first attracted to it4 ,the last which we procured directed1 on the label of the jar1 that orders for it should be sent per post to #hc1 ,copenhagen ,street1 ,islington4 ,it may1 however1 be procured without doubt from any good purveyor of sauces and other condiments4 ,it is sold in jars of all sizes1 the price of the smallest being one-and-sixpence4 ,we certainly think it much superior to any of the others which we have tested1 its flavour being peculiarly agreeable4 ,,to ,,fillet ,,anchovies4 ,drain them well from the pickle1 take off the heads and fins1 lay them separately on a plate1 and scrape off the skin entirely2 then place them on a clean dish and with a sharp-edged knife raise the flesh on either side of the back-bone1 passing it from the tail to the shoulders1 and keeping it nearly flat as it is worked along4 ,divide each side 7or fillet7 in two1 and use them as directed for the preceding toasts or other purposes4 ,they make excellent simple sandwiches with slices of bread and butter only2 but very superior ones when they are potted or made into anchovy butter4 ,,savoury ,,toasts4 ,cut some slices of bread free from crust1 about half an inch thick and two inches and a half square2 butter the tops thickly1 spread a little mustard on them1 and then cover them with a deep layer of grated cheese and of ham seasoned rather highly with cayenne2 fry them in good butter1 but do not turn them in the pan2 lift them out1 and place them in a ,dutch oven for three or ,,tn3 missing word4 minutes to dissolve the cheese3 serve them very hot4 ,to #d tablespoonsful of grated ,english cheese1 an equal portion of very finely minced1 or grated ham2 but of ,parmesan1 or ,gruyre1 #f tablespoonsful4 ,seasoning of mustard and cayenne4 ,obs4--,these toasts1 for which we give the original receipt unaltered1 may be served in the cheese-course of a dinner4 ,such mere 8relishes0 as they are called1 do not seem to us to demand much of our space1 or many of them which are very easy of preparation might be inserted here3 a good cook1 however1 will easily supply them at slight expense4 ,truffles minced1 seasoned1 and stewed tender in butter with an eschalot or two1 may be served on fried toasts or crotons and will generally be liked4 ,,to ,,choose ,,maccaroni ,,and ,,other ,,italian ,,pastes4 ,the ,naples maccaroni1 of which the pipes are large1 and somewhat thin1 should be selected for the table in preference to the ,genoa1 which is less in size1 but more substantial1 and better suited to the formation of the various fanciful timbales#ach for which it is usually chosen4 ,we have inserted here no receipts for these1 because unless very skilfully prepared they are sure to fail1 and they are not in much request in this country1 unless it be at the tables of the aristocracy1 for which they are prepared by efficient cooks4 ,of the ribbon maccaroni 7or lazanges7 we have given particulars in the pages which follow4 ,the macaroncini1 though not much larger than a straw1 requires much boiling for its size1 to render it soft4 ,the celery-maccaroni is made very large and of an ornamental form1 but in short lengths4 ,it is used by 8professed0 cooks as a sort of crust or case for quenelle-forcemeat1 or other expensive preparations of the same nature4 ,the ring or cut maccaroni is another form given to the ,italian paste3 it may be had at almost any good foreign warehouse4 ,footnote #ach3 ,for an explanation of the term timbale1 the reader is referred to the glossary at the commencement of this volume4 ,all these pastes should be of a yellowish tint 7by no means white as one sees them when they are of inferior quality72 they should also be quite fresh1 as they contract a most unpleasant flavour from being too long stored4 ,the ,naples vermicelli1 which is much larger than any other1 may be dressed like maccaroni3 by many persons it is also preferred to the smaller varieties for serving in soup4 ,,to ,,boil ,,maccaroni4 ,we have always found the continental mode of dressing maccaroni the best4 ,english cooks sometimes soak it in milk and water for an hour or more1 before it is boiled1 that the pipes may be swollen to the utmost1 but this is apt to render it pulpy1 though its appearance may be improved by it4 ,drop it lightly1 and by degrees1 into a large pan of fast-boiling water1 into which a little salt1 and a bit of butter the size of a walnut1 have previously been thrown1 and of which the boiling should not be stopped by the addition of the maccaroni4 ,in about three-quarters of an hour the ,naples maccaroni will be sufficiently tender3 every kind should always be perfectly cooked1 for otherwise it will prove very indigestible1 but the pipes of that commonly served should remain entire4 ,pour it into a large cullender1 and drain the water well from it4 ,it should be very softly boiled after the first minute or two4 ,time of boiling3--,naples maccaroni1 about #c_/d hour2 ,genoa1 nearly or quite #a hour2 macaroncini1 #bj to #be minutes2 cut maccaroni1 #aj minutes2 ,naples vermicelli 7in water71 about #bj minutes2 longer in soup1 or milk4 ,,ribbon ,,maccaroni4#aci ,footnote #aci3 ,the best ribbon-maccaroni which we have ever had1 was from ,mr4 ,cobbett's1 #ah1 ,pall ,mall4 ,it is rather higher in price than the pipe maccaroni1 but swells so much in the boiling that a large quantity of it is not required for a dish4 ,we ought to add that ,mr4 ,cobbett's is not a professedly cheap house1 but that all he supplies is of excellent quality4 ,this kind of maccaroni1 though more delicate in flavour and much more quickly boiled than the pipe maccaroni1 is far less frequently seen at ,english tables2 yet it is extremely good in many simple forms and very wholesome1 therefore well suited to invalids and children as well as to persons in health4 ,drop it gradually into plenty of boiling water1 and turn it over occasionally that it may be equally done4 ,drain it thoroughly when it is perfectly tender1 and serve it quickly either quite plain1 to be eaten instead of vegetables or rice2 or with a compote of fruit2 or with sugar and cinnamon1 or lemon juice2 or prepared in any of the modes indicated for the ,naples maccaroni4 ,to be boiled #ae to #ah minutes4 ,,dressed ,,maccaroni4 ,after careful and repeated trial of different modes of dressing various kinds of maccaroni1 we find that in preparing them with ,parmesan cheese1 unmixed with any of a more mellow nature1 there is always a chance of failure1 from its tendency to gather into lumps2 we would therefore recommend the inexperienced reader to substitute for it in part1 at least1 any finely flavoured ,english cheese2 and the better to ensure its blending smoothly with the other ingredients 7when neither white1 nor any other thickened sauce is used with it71 to dissolve the butter1 and to stir to it a small teaspoonful of flour1 before any liquid is added1 then carefully to mix with it the cream or gravy1 as directed for ,sauce ,tourne1 ,chapter ,v41 and to give this a boil before the maccaroni and cheese are added3 if gently tossed as these become hot1 the whole will be smooth1 and the cheese will adhere properly to the paste4 ,four ounces of pipe maccaroni is sufficient for a small dish1 but from six to eight should be prepared for a family party where it is liked4 ,the common ,english mode of dressing it is with grated cheese1 butter1 and cream1 or milk4 ,french cooks substitute generally a spoonful or two of very strong rich jellied gravy for the cream2 and the ,italians1 amongst their many other modes of serving it1 toss it in rich brown gravy1 with sufficient grated cheese to flavour the whole strongly2 they send it to table also simply laid into a good ,espagnole or brown gravy 7that drawn from the stufato1#adj for example71 accompanied by a plate of grated cheese4 ,another1 and an easy mode of dressing it is to boil and drain it well1 and to put it into a deep dish1 strewing grated cheese on every layer1 and adding bits of fresh butter to it4 ,the top1 in this case1 should be covered with a layer of fine bread-crumbs1 mixed with grated cheese2 these should be moistened plentifully with clarified butter1 and colour given to them in the oven1 or before the fire2 the crumbs may be omitted1 and a layer of cheese substituted for them4 ,an excellent preparation of maccaroni may be made with any well-flavoured1 dry white cheese1 which can be grated easily1 at much less cost than with the ,parmesan1 which is expensive1 and in the country not always procurable3 and we think that the brown gravy and a seasoning of cayenne are great improvements to it4 ,footnote #adj3 ,see ,chapter of ,foreign ,cookery4 ,maccaroni1 #f oz42 butter1 #c oz42 ,parmesan 7or other7 cheese1 #f oz42 cream1 #d tablespoonsful4 ,obs4--,less of butter and cheese can be used by the strict economist4 ,,maccaroni ,,la ,,reine4 ,this is a very excellent and delicate mode of dressing maccaroni4 ,boil eight ounces in the usual way1 and by the time it is sufficiently tender1 dissolve gently ten ounces of any rich1 well flavoured white cheese in full three-quarters of a pint of good cream2 add a little salt1 a rather full seasoning of cayenne1 from half to a whole saltspoonful of pounded mace1 and a couple of ounces of sweet fresh butter4 ,the cheese should1 in the first instance1 be sliced very thin1 and taken quite free of the hard part adjoining the rind2 it should be stirred in the cream without intermission until it is entirely dissolved1 and the whole is perfectly smooth3 the maccaroni1 previously well drained1 may then be tossed gently in it1 or after it is dished1 the cheese may be poured equally over the maccaroni4 ,the whole1 in either case1 may be thickly covered before it is sent to table1 with fine crumbs of bread fried of a pale gold colour1 and dried perfectly1 either before the fire or in an oven1 when such an addition is considered an improvement4 ,as a matter of precaution1 it is better to boil the cream before the cheese is melted in it2 rich white sauce1 or bchamel1 made not very thick1 with an additional ounce or two of butter1 may be used to vary and enrich this preparation4 ,if ,parmesan cheese be used for it1 it must of course be grated2 but1 as we have said before1 it will not easily blend with the other ingredients so as to be smooth4 ,a portion of ,stilton1 free from the blue mould1 would have a good effect in the present receipt4 ,half the quantity may be served4 ,maccaroni1 #a_/b lb42 cheese1 #aj oz42 good cream1 #c_/d pint 7or rich white sauce72 butter1 #b oz4 7or more72 little salt1 fine cayenne1 and mace4 ,,semoulina ,,and ,,polenta ,l',,italienne4 7,,good47 7,to serve instead of ,maccaroni47 ,illustration3 ,maize4 ,throw into a quart of milk1 when it is fast boiling1 half a teaspoonful of salt1 and then shake lightly into it five ounces of the best semoulina2 stir the milk as this is added1 and continue to do so from eight to ten minutes1 letting the mixture boil gently during the time4 ,it should be very thick1 and great care must be taken to prevent its sticking to the saucepan1 which should be placed over a clear fire on a bar or trivet1 but not upon the coals4 ,pour the semoulina1 when it is done1 into a basin1 or a plain mould which it will not fill by an inch or two1 and let it remain some hours in a cool place1 that it may become perfectly cold2 it will then turn out quite solid1 and like a pudding in appearance4 ,cut it with a large1 sharp carving-knife1 or a bit of thin wire1 into half-inch slices2 wash the basin into which it was poured at first1 and butter it well2 grate from six to eight ounces of good cheese 7,parmesan1 or any other71 and mix with it a half-teaspoonful of cayenne1 and twice as much pounded mace2 clarify from two to three ounces of fresh butter1 and put a small quantity into the basin1 strew in a little of the cheese1 and then lay in the first slice of the semoulina1 on this put a thick layer of the cheese1 moisten it with some drops of butter1 and place the second slice upon it2 then more cheese and butter1 and continue thus until all the semoulina is replaced in the basin2 put plenty of cheese upon the top1 add the remainder of the clarified butter1 and bake the mixture for about half an hour in a gentle oven4 ,it should be of a fine golden colour when served4 ,turn it carefully into a dish1 and send it instantly to table4 ,a little rich brown gravy poured round might1 to some tastes1 improve it1 but it is excellent without1 and may be substituted for maccaroni1 which it much resembles in flavour4 ,it may be enriched by adding butter to the milk1 or by mixing with it a portion of cream2 and it may be browned in a ,dutch oven1 when no other is in use4 ,in ,italy the flour of ,indian corn1 which is much grown there1 and eaten by all ranks of people1 is used for this dish2 but the semoulina is perhaps rather better suited to ,english taste and habits of diet1 from being somewhat lighter and more delicate4 ,the maize-flour imported from ,italy is sold at the foreign warehouses here under the name of polenta1#ada though that properly speaking is1 we believe1 a boiled or stewed preparation of it1 which forms the most common food of the poorer classes of the inhabitants of many of the ,italian states4 ,it seems to us superior in quality to the ,indian corn flour grown in ,america4 ,footnote #ada3 ,this was vended at a sufficiently high price in this country before the maize meal was so largely imported here from ,america4 ,new milk 7or milk mixed with cream71 #a quart2 salt1 large #a_/b teaspoonful2 semoulina1 #e oz43 #aj minutes4 ,grated cheese1 #f to #h oz42 cayenne1 #a_/b teaspoonful2 mace1 #a small teaspoonful2 butter1 #b to #c oz43 baked #a_/b hour1 gentle oven4 ,obs4--,a plain mould can be used instead of the basin4 ,,for ,,various ,,modes ,,of ,,dressing ,,eggs1 ,,see ,,chapter ,,xxii4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,chapter ,,xx4 ,boiled ,puddings4 ,illustration ,,general ,,directions4 ,illustration3 ,pudding ,mould4 ,,all the ingredients for puddings should be fresh and of good quality4 ,it is a false economy to use for them such as have been too long stored1 as the slightest degree of mustiness or taint in any one of the articles of which they are composed will spoil all that are combined with it4 ,eggs should always be broken separately into a cup before they are thrown together in the same basin1 as a single very bad one will occasion the loss of many when this precaution is neglected4 ,they should also be cleared from the specks with scrupulous attention1 either with the point of a small three-pronged fork while they are in the cup1 or by straining the whole through a fine hair-sieve after they are beaten4 ,the perfect sweetness of suet and milk should be especially attended to before they are mixed into a pudding1 as nothing can be more offensive than the first when it is over-kept1 nor worse in its effect than the curdling of the milk1 which is the certain result of its being ever so slightly soured4 ,currants should be cleaned1 and raisins stoned with exceeding care2 almonds and spices very finely pounded1 and the rinds of oranges or lemons rasped or grated lightly off1 that the bitter part of the skin may be avoided1 when they are used for this1 or for any other class of dishes2 if pared1 they should be cut as thin as possible4 ,custard puddings to have a good appearance1 must be simmered only but without ceasing2 for if boiled in a quick and careless manner1 the surface instead of being smooth and velvety1 will be full of holes1 or honey-combed1 as it is called1 and the whey will flow from it and mingle with the sauce4 ,a thickly-buttered sheet of writing-paper should be laid between the custard mixture and the cloth before it is tied over1 or the cover of the mould is closed upon it2 and the mould itself or the basin in which it is boiled1 and which should always be quite full1 must likewise be well buttered2 and after it is lifted from the water the pudding should be left in it for quite five minutes before it is dished1 to prevent its breaking or spreading about4 ,batter is much lighter when boiled in a cloth1 and allowed full room to swell1 than when confined in a mould3 it should be well beaten the instant before it is poured into it1 and put into the water immediately after it is securely tied4 ,the cloth should be moist and thickly floured1 and the pudding should be sent to table as expeditiously as possible after it is done1 as it will quickly become heavy4 ,this applies equally to all puddings made with paste1 which are rendered uneatable by any delay in serving them after they are ready3 they should be opened a little at the top as soon as they are taken from the boiler or stewpan to permit the escape of the steam from within4 ,plum-puddings1 which it is customary to boil in moulds1 are both lighter and less dry1 when closely tied in stout cloths well buttered and floured1 especially when they are made in part with bread2 but when this is done1 care should be taken not to allow them to burn to the bottom of the pan in which they are cooked2 and it is a good plan to lay a plate or dish under them1 by way of precaution against this mischance2 it will not then so much matter whether they be kept floating or not4 ,it is thought better to mix these entirely 7except the liquid portion of them7 the day before they are boiled1 and it is perhaps an advantage when they are of large size to do so1 but it is not really necessary for small or common ones4 ,a very little salt improves all sweet puddings1 by taking off the insipidity1 and bringing out the full flavour of the other ingredients1 but its presence should not be in the slightest degree perceptible4 ,when brandy1 wine1 or lemon-juice is added to them it should be stirred in briskly1 and by degrees1 quite at last1 as it would be likely otherwise to curdle the milk or eggs4 ,many persons prefer their puddings steamed2 but when this is not done1 they should be dropped into plenty of boiling water1 and be kept well covered with it until they are ready to serve2 and the boiling should never be allowed to cease for an instant1 for they soon become heavy if it be interrupted4 ,pudding and dumpling cloths should not only be laid into plenty of water as soon as they are taken off1 and well washed afterwards1 but it is essential to their perfect sweetness that they should be well and quickly dried 7in the open air if possible71 then folded and kept in a clean drawer4 ,,to ,,clean ,,currants ,,for ,,puddings ,,or ,,cakes4 ,put them into a cullender1 strew a handful of flour over them1 and rub them gently with the hands to separate the lumps1 and to detach the stalks2 work them round in the cullender1 and shake it well1 when the small stalks and stones will fall through it4 ,next pour plenty of cold water over the currants1 drain and spread them on a soft cloth1 press it over them to absorb the moisture1 and then lay them on a clean oven-tin1 or a large dish1 and dry them very gradually 7or they will become hard71 either in a cool oven or before the fire1 taking care in the latter case that they are not placed sufficiently near it for the ashes to fall amongst them4 ,when they are perfectly dry1 clear them entirely from the remaining stalks1 and from every stone that may be amongst them4 ,the best mode of detecting these is to lay the fruit at the far end of a large white dish1 or sheet of paper1 and to pass it lightly1 and in very small portions1 with the fingers1 towards oneself1 examining it closely as this is done4 ,,to ,,steam ,a ,,pudding ,,in ,a ,,common ,,stewpan ,,or ,,saucepan4 ,butter and fill the mould or basin as usual2 tie over it1 first1 a well-buttered paper1 and then a thin floured cloth or muslin1 which should be quite small2 gather up and tie the corners1 and be careful that no part of it1 or of the paper1 reaches to the water2 pour in from two to three inches depth of this1 according to the height of the mould1 and when it boils put in the pudding1 and press the cover of the stewpan closely on2 then boil it gently without ceasing until it is done4 ,this is the safer method of boiling all puddings made with polenta1 or with the ,american flour of maize2 as well as many others of the custard kind1 which are easily spoiled by the admission of water to them4 ,as the evaporation diminishes that in the saucepan1 more1 ready-boiling1 must be added if necessary2 and be poured carefully down the side of the pan without touching the pudding4 ,,to ,,mix ,,batter ,,for ,,puddings4 ,put the flour and salt into a bowl1 and stir them together2 whisk the eggs thoroughly1 strain them through a fine hair-sieve1 and add them very gradually to the flour2 for if too much liquid be poured to it at once it will be full of lumps1 and it is easy with care to keep the batter perfectly smooth4 ,beat it well and lightly with the back of a strong wooden spoon1 and after the eggs are added thin it with milk to a proper consistence4 ,the whites of the eggs beaten separately to a solid froth1 and stirred gently into the mixture the instant before it is tied up for boiling1 or before it is put into the oven to be baked1 will render it remarkably light4 ,when fruit is added to the batter1 it must be made thicker than when it is served plain1 or it will sink to the bottom of the pudding4 ,batter should never stick to the knife when it is sent to table3 it will do this both when a sufficient number of eggs are not mixed with it1 and when it is not enough cooked4 ,about four eggs to the half pound of flour will make it firm enough to cut smoothly4 ,,suet-,,crust1 ,,for ,,meat ,,or ,,fruit ,,puddings4 ,clear off the skin from some fresh beef kidney-suet1 hold it firmly with a fork1 and with a sharp knife slice it thin1 free it entirely from fibre1 and mince it very fine3 six ounces thus prepared will be found quite sufficient for a pound of flour4 ,mix them well together1 add half a teaspoonful of salt for meat puddings1 and a third as much for fruit ones1 and sufficient cold water to make the whole into a very firm paste2 work it smooth1 and roll it out of equal thickness when it is used4 ,the weight of suet should be taken after it is minced4 ,this crust is so much lighter1 and more wholesome than that which is made with butter1 that we cannot refrain from recommending it in preference to our readers4 ,some cooks merely slice the suet in thin shavings1 mix it with the flour1 and beat the crust with a paste-roller1 until the flour and suet are perfectly incorporated2 but it is better minced4 ,flour1 #b lbs42 suet1 #ab oz42 salt1 #a teaspoonful2 water1 #a pint4 ,,butter ,,crust ,,for ,,puddings4 ,when suet is disliked for crust1 butter must supply its place1 but there must be no intermixture of lard in paste which is to be boiled4 ,eight ounces to the pound of flour will render it sufficiently rich for most eaters1 and less will generally be preferred2 rich crust of this kind being more indigestible by far than that which is baked4 ,the butter may be lightly broken into the flour before the water is added1 or it may be laid on1 and rolled into the paste as for puff-crust4 ,a small portion of salt must be added to it always1 and for a meat pudding the same proportion as directed in the preceding receipt4 ,for kitchen1 or for quite common family puddings1 butter and clarified dripping are used sometimes in equal proportions4 ,from three to four ounces of each will be sufficient for the pound and quarter of flour4 ,flour1 #a lb42 butter1 #h oz42 salt1 for fruit puddings1 #a_/b saltspoonful2 for meat puddings1 #a_/b teaspoonful4 ,,savoury ,,puddings4 ,the perfect manner in which the nutriment and flavour of an infinite variety of viands may be preserved by enclosing and boiling them in paste1 is a great recommendation of this purely ,english class of dishes1 the advantages of which foreign cooks are beginning to acknowledge4 ,if really well made1 these savoury puddings are worthy of a place on any table2 though the decrees of fashion--which in many instances have so much more influence with us than they deserve--have hitherto confined them almost entirely to the simple family dinners of the middle classes2 but we are bound to acknowledge that even where they are most commonly served they are seldom prepared with a creditable degree of skill2 and they are equally uninviting and unwholesome when heavily and coarsely concocted4 ,from the general suggestions which we make here1 and the few detailed receipts which follow1 a clever cook will easily compound them to suit the taste and means of her employers2 for they may be either very rich and expensive1 or quite the reverse4 ,venison 7the neck is best for the purpose71 intermingled or not with truffles2 sweetbreads sliced1 and oysters or nicely prepared button-mushrooms in alternate layers1 with good veal stock for gravy2#adb pheasants1 partridges1 moorfowl1 woodcocks1 snipes1 plovers1 wheatears1 may all be converted into the first class of these2 and veal kidneys1 seasoned with fine herbs1 will supply another variety of them4 ,many persons like eels dressed in this way1 but they are unsuited to delicate eaters3 and sausages are liable to the same objection2 and so is a harslet pudding1 which is held in much esteem in certain counties1 and which is made of the heart1 liver1 kidneys1 c41 of a pig4 ,we can recommend as both wholesome and economical the receipts which follow1 for the more simple kind of savoury puddings1 and which may serve as guides for such others as the intelligence of the cook may suggest4 ,footnote #adb3 ,the liquor of the oysters should be added when they are used4 ,,beef-,,steak1 ,,or ,,john ,,bull',s ,,pudding4 ,all meat puddings are more conveniently made in deep pans1 moulds1 or basins having a thick rim1 below which the cloths can be tied without the hazard of their slipping off2 and as the puddings should by no means be turned out before they are sent to table1 one to match the dinner-service1 at least in colour1 is desirable4#adc ,roll out a suet crust to half an inch in thickness1 line evenly with it a quart1 or any other sized basin that may be preferred1 and raise the crust from an inch and a half to two inches above the edge4 ,fill it with layers of well-kept rump-steak1 neatly trimmed1 and seasoned with salt and pepper1 or cayenne2 pour in some cold water to make the gravy2 roll out the cover1 moisten the edge1 as well as that of the pudding2 draw and press them together carefully1 fold them over1 shake out a cloth which has been dipped into hot water1 wrung out1 and well floured2 tie it over the pudding1 gather the corners together1 tie them over the top of the pudding1 put it into plenty of fast boiling water1 and let it remain in from three to five hours1 according to its size4 ,the instant it is lifted out1 stick a fork quite through the middle of the paste to prevent its bursting2 remove the cloth quickly1 and cut a small round or square in the top to allow the steam to escape1 and serve the pudding immediately4 ,though not considered very admissible to an elegantly served table1 this is a favourite dish with many persons1 and is often in great esteem with sportsmen1 for whom it is provided in preference to fare which requires greater exactness in the time of cooking2 as an additional hour's boiling1 or even more1 will have little effect on a large pudding of this kind1 beyond reducing the quantity of gravy1 and rendering it very thick4 ,footnote #adc3 ,it is now customary in some families to have both meat and fruit puddings boiled and served in pie or tart-dishes4 ,they are lined entirely with very thin crust1 or merely edged with it1 according to taste2 then filled1 closed1 and cooked in the usual manner4 ,the plan is a good and convenient one1 where the light upper-crust is preferred to the heavy and sodden part which is under the meat4 ,in ,kent and ,sussex1 shallow pans1 in form somewhat resembling a large deep saucer1 are sold expressly for boiling meat puddings4 ,some cooks flour the meat slightly before it is laid into the crust1 but we do not think it an improvement3 where fat is liked1 a portion may be added with the lean1 but all skin and sinew should be carefully rejected4 ,beat the steak with a paste roller1 or cutlet-bat1 should it not appear to be perfectly tender1 and divide it into portions about the width of two fingers4 ,two or three dozens of oysters1 bearded and washed free from grit in their own liquor 7which should afterwards be strained and poured into the pudding71 may be intermingled with the meat4 ,a true epicurean receipt for this dish directs the paste to be made with veal-kidney suet1 and filled with alternate layers of the inside of the sirloin1 sliced and seasoned1 and of fine plump native oysters1 intermixed with an occasional small slice of the veal fat4 ,,small ,,beef-,,steak ,,pudding4 ,make into a very firm smooth paste1 one pound of flour1 six ounces of beef-suet finely minced1 half a teaspoonful of salt1 and half a pint of cold water4 ,line with this a basin which holds a pint and a half4 ,season a pound of tender steak1 free from bone and skin1 with half an ounce of salt and half a teaspoonful of pepper well mixed together2 lay it in the crust1 pour in a quarter of a pint of water1 roll out the cover1 close the pudding carefully1 tie a floured cloth over1 and boil it for three hours and a half4 ,we give this receipt in addition to the preceding one1 as an exact guide for the proportions of meat-puddings in general4 ,flour1 #a lb42 suet1 #f oz42 salt1 #a_/b teaspoonful2 water1 #a_/b pint2 rump-steak1 #a lb42 salt1 #a_/b oz42 pepper1 #a_/b teaspoonful2 water1 #a_/d pint3 #c-a_/b hours4 ,,ruth ,,pinch',s ,,beef-,,steak ,,pudding4 ,to make ,ruth ,pinch's celebrated pudding 7known also as beef-steak pudding la ,dickens71 substitute six ounces of butter for the suet in this receipt1 and moisten the paste with the well-beaten yolks of four eggs1 or with three whole ones1 mixed with a little water2 butter the basin very thickly before the paste is laid in1 as the pudding is to be turned out of it for table4 ,in all else proceed exactly as above4 ,,mutton ,,pudding4 ,mutton freed perfectly from fat1 and mixed with two or three sliced kidneys1 makes an excellent pudding4 ,the meat may be sprinkled with fine herbs as it is laid into the crust4 ,this will require rather less boiling than the preceding puddings1 but it is made in precisely the same way4 ,,partridge ,,pudding4 7,very ,good47 ,skin a brace of well-kept partridges and cut them down into joints2 line a deep basin with suet crust1 observing the directions given in the preceding receipts2 lay in the birds1 which should be rather highly seasoned with pepper or cayenne1 and moderately with salt2 pour in water for the gravy1 close the pudding with care1 and boil it from three hours to three and a half4 ,the true flavour of the game is admirably preserved by this mode of cooking4 ,when mushrooms are plentiful1 put a layer of buttons1 or small flaps1 cleaned as for pickling1 alternately with a layer of partridge1 in filling the pudding1 which will then be most excellent eating3 the crust may be left untouched1 and merely emptied of its contents1 where it is objected to1 or its place may be supplied with a richer one made of butter4 ,a seasoning of pounded mace or nutmeg can be used at discretion4 ,puddings of veal1 chickens1 and young rabbits1 may all be made by this receipt1 or with the addition of oysters1 which we have already noticed4 ,a ,,peas ,,pudding4 7,to serve with boiled pork47 ,separate carefully from a pint of good mellow split peas1 all that are worm-eaten2 wash the remainder well1 and soak them for a night in plenty of soft water4 ,the following day tie them up in a thick pudding cloth1 giving them room to swell1 cover them well with cold soft water and boil them gently from two hours to two and a half3 if they are not then quite tender1 they are of bad quality1 and cannot be rendered so4 ,lift them into a cullender1 untie the cloth1 and crush them to a paste with a wooden spoon1 stir in a good slice of butter1 and a seasoning of pepper and salt1 tie them up again very tight1 and boil them for half an hour2 turn the pudding gently into a dish that it may not break1 and serve it as hot as possible4 ,this is the common old-fashioned mode of preparing a peas pudding1 and many persons prefer it to the more modern one which follows4 ,soak1 and boil the peas as above1 drain the water well from them before the cloth is untied1 rub them through a cullender or sieve1 mix the seasoning and the butter thoroughly with them1 then add to them gradually three well whisked eggs1 tie the mixture tightly and closely in a floured cloth1 and boil it for one hour4 ,good split peas1 #a pint2 soaked in soft water #a night4 ,boiled #b to #b-a_/b hours4 ,butter1 #a oz43 salt1 pepper3 boil again #bj to #cj minutes4 ,or3 butter1 #a-a_/b oz42 eggs1 #c3 boiled #a hour4 ,obs4--,when soft water cannot be had1 half a teaspoonful of carbonate of soda must be stirred into that in which the peas are boiled4 ,they must have room to swell or they will be hard2 but if too much be given them they will be watery1 and it will be difficult to convert them into a pudding at all4 ,,wine ,,sauce ,,for ,,sweet ,,puddings4 ,boil gently together for ten or fifteen minutes the very thin rind of half a small lemon1 about an ounce and a half of sugar1 and a wineglassful of water4 ,take out the lemon-peel and stir into the sauce until it has boiled for one minute1 an ounce of butter smoothly mixed with a large half-teaspoonful of flour2 add a wineglassful and a half of sherry or ,madeira1 or other good white wine1 and when quite hot serve the sauce without delay4 ,port wine sauce is made in the same way with the addition of a dessertspoonful of lemon-juice1 some grated nutmeg and a little more sugar4 ,orange-rind and juice may be used for it instead of lemon4 ,,common ,,wine ,,sauce4 ,sweeten a quarter-pint of good melted butter with an ounce and a half of sugar1 and add to it gradually a couple of glasses of wine2 stir it until it is at the point of boiling1 and serve it immediately4 ,lemon-grate1 or nutmeg1 can be added at pleasure4 ,,punch ,,sauce ,,for ,,sweet ,,puddings4 ,this may be served with custard1 plain bread1 and plum-puddings4 ,with two ounces of sugar and a quarter of a pint of water1 boil very gently the rind of half a small lemon1 and somewhat less of orange-peel1 from fifteen to twenty minutes2 strain out the rinds1 thicken the sauce with an ounce and a half of butter and nearly a teaspoonful of flour1 add a half-glass of brandy1 the same of white wine1 two-thirds of a glass of rum1 with the juice of half an orange1 and rather less of lemon-juice3 serve the sauce very hot1 but do not allow it to boil after the spirit is stirred in4 ,sugar1 #b oz42 water1 #a_/d pint2 lemon and orange rind3 #ad to #bj minutes4 ,butter1 #a-a_/b oz42 flour1 #a teaspoonful2 brandy and white wine1 each #a_/b wineglassful2 rum1 two-thirds of glassful2 orange and lemon juice4 ,,for ,,clear ,,arrow-,,root ,,sauce4 7,see the ,welcome ,guest's ,own ,pudding47 ,a ,,german ,,custard ,,pudding-,,sauce4 ,boil very gently together half a pint of new milk or of milk and cream mixed1 a very thin strip or two of fresh lemon-rind1 a bit of cinnamon1 half an inch of a vanilla bean1 and an ounce and a half or two ounces of sugar1 until the milk is strongly flavoured2 then strain1 and pour it1 by slow degrees1 to the well-beaten yolks of three eggs1 smoothly mixed with a knife-end-full 7about half a teaspoonful7 of flour1 a grain or two of salt1 and a tablespoonful of cold milk2 and stir these very quickly round as the milk is added4 ,put the sauce again into the stewpan1 and whisk or stir it rapidly until it thickens1 and looks creamy4 ,it must not be placed upon the fire1 but should be held over it1 when this is done4 ,the ,germans mill their sauces to a froth2 but they may be whisked with almost equally good effect1 though a small mill for the purpose--formed like a chocolate mill--may be had at a very trifling cost4 ,a ,,delicious ,,german ,,pudding-,,sauce4 ,dissolve in half a pint of sherry or of ,madeira1 from three to four ounces of fine sugar1 but do not allow the wine to boil2 stir it hot to the well-beaten yolks of six fresh eggs1 and mill the sauce over a gentle fire until it is well thickened and highly frothed2 pour it over a plum1 or any other kind of sweet boiled pudding1 of which it much improves the appearance4 ,half the quantity will be sufficient for one of moderate size4 ,we recommend the addition of a dessertspoonful of strained lemon-juice to the wine4 ,for large pudding1 sherry or ,madeira1 #a_/b pint2 fine sugar1 #c to #d oz42 yolks of eggs1 #f2 lemon-juice 7if added71 #a dessertspoonful4 ,obs4--,as we have already said in the previous receipt1 it is customary to froth sweet sauces in ,germany with a small machine made like a chocolate-mill4 ,two silver forks fastened together at the handles may be used instead on an emergency1 or the sauce may be whisked to the proper state1 like the one which precedes it4 ,great care must be taken not to allow these sauces to curdle4 ,the safer plan is to put any preparation of the kind into a white jar1 and to place it over the fire in a pan of boiling water1 and then to stir or mill it until it is sufficiently thickened3 the jar should not be half filled1 and it should be large enough to allow the sauce to be worked easily4 ,the water should not reach to within two or three inches of the brim4 ,we give these minute details for inexperienced cooks4 ,,red ,,currant ,,or ,,raspberry ,,sauce4 7,,good47 ,measure half a pint of sound red currants after they have been stripped from the stalks2 wash them1 should they be dusty1 and drain all the water from them4 ,have ready a syrup1 made with three ounces of sugar in lumps1 and the third of a pint of water1 boiled gently together for five minutes2 put in the currants1 and stew them for ten minutes2 strain off the juice1 of which there will be nearly or quite half a pint1 through a lawn sieve or folded muslin2 heat it afresh1 and pour it boiling to a small spoonful of arrow-root which has been very smoothly mixed with a tablespoonful of cold water1 being careful to stir it briskly while the juice is being added2 give the sauce a minute's boil to render it transparent1 and mask the pudding with it 7or1 in other words1 pour it equally over it1 so as to cover the entire surface72 or serve it in a tureen4 ,a few raspberries may be added in their season1 to flavour this preparation2 but if quite ripe1 they must be thrown into the syrup without having been washed1 two or three minutes after the currants have been put into it4 ,a delicious sauce may be made entirely from raspberries as above1 allowing a larger proportion of the fruit1 as it yields less juice than the currant4 ,the proportions directed in this receipt are quite sufficient for a pudding of moderate size1 but they can easily be increased when required4 ,,common ,,raspberry-,,sauce4 ,put three ounces of sugar broken into small lumps1 and a wineglassful and a half of water into a small stewpan1 and boil them for four or five minutes4 ,add half a pint of fresh ripe raspberries1 well mashed with the back of a spoon4 ,mix them with the syrup1 and boil them for six or seven minutes2 the sauce should then be quite smooth and clear4 ,the quantity of it with these proportions will not be large1 but can be increased at pleasure4 ,obs4--,we have generally found that the most simple1 and consequently the most refreshing fruit-sauces have been much liked by the persons who have partaken of them2 and they are1 we think1 preferable to the foreign ones--,german principally--to which wine and cinnamon are commonly added1 and which are often composed of dried fruit4 ,their number can easily be augmented by an intelligent cook2 and they can be varied through all the summer and autumnal months with the fruit in season at the time4 ,,superior ,,fruit-,,sauces ,,for ,,sweet ,,puddings4 ,clear rich fruit syrups1 such as the ,sirop de ,groseilles of ,chapter ,,xxix4 or those from which cherries1 apricots1 damsons1 and other plums1 are taken when they have been prepared in them for drying1 make the finest possible sauces for sweet puddings4 ,a pound of ripe ,morella cherries1 for example1 pricked separately with a large needle1 then slowly heated and simmered from seven to ten minutes with three quarters of a pound of castor-sugar1 and allowed to become cold in their juice1 will be excellent if laid on dishes and slowly dried2 and the syrup from them will be a delicious accompaniment to a pudding 7or to plain boiled rice72 and it will also afford a most agreeable summer beverage mixed with water1 slightly iced1 or not4 ,other varieties of these sauces are made by stewing the fruit tender without sugar1 then rubbing it through a sieve1 and diluting it with wine2 or simply mixing and boiling it with sufficient sugar to render it sweet and clear4 ,,pine-,,apple ,,pudding-,,sauce4 ,rasp down on a fine bright grater sufficient of the flesh of a ripe ,jamaica or ,english pine-apple from which the rind has been thickly pared1 to make the quantity of sauce required4 ,simmer it quite tender1 with a very small quantity of water2 then mix with it by degrees from half to three-quarters of its weight of sugar1 give it five minutes more of gentle boiling1 and pour it over the pudding4 ,rasped pine-apple1 #f oz42 water1 #b tablespoonsful3 #aj to #ae minutes gentle stewing4 ,sugar1 #d oz3 #e minutes4 ,a finer sauce may be made with half a pound of the pine first simmered tender in its own juice1 and one tablespoonful only of water1 and then mixed with seven ounces of sifted sugar1 and boiled gently until it looks clear4 ,if too sweet1 the strained juice of half a large sized lemon may be stirred to it before it is served1 but a certain weight of sugar is required to make it appear bright4 ,this preparation may be kept for some time1 and warmed afresh for table when needed4 ,a ,,very ,,fine ,,pine-,,apple ,,sauce ,,or ,,syrup1 ,,for ,,puddings ,,or ,,other ,,sweet ,,dishes4 ,after having pared away every morsel of the rind from a ripe and highly flavoured pine-apple1 cut three-quarters of a pound of it into very thin slices1 and then into quite small dice4 ,pour to it nearly half a pint of spring water2 heat1 and boil it very gently until it is extremely tender1 then strain and press the juice closely from it through a cloth or through a muslin strainer#add folded in four2 strain it clear1 mix it with ten ounces of the finest sugar in small lumps1 and when this is dissolved1 boil the syrup gently for a quarter of an hour4 ,it will be delicious in flavour and very bright in colour if well made4 ,if put into a jar1 and stored with a paper tied over it1 it will remain excellent for weeks2 and it will become almost a jelly with an additional ounce of sugar and rather quicker boiling4 ,it may be poured round moulded creams1 rice1 or sago2 or mingled with various sweet preparations for which the juice of fruit is admissible4 ,footnote #add3 ,it is almost superfluous to say that the large squares of muslin1 of which on account of their peculiar nicety we have recommended the use for straining many sweet preparations1 must never have a particle of starch in them2 they should be carefully kept free from dust and soil of any kind1 and always well rinsed and soaked in clear water before they are dried4 ,,german ,,cherry ,,sauce4 ,beat a quart of cherries in a mortar until the stones are broken1 then boil them tender with half a pint of water and wine mixed4 ,rub them through a sieve1 and boil them again1 with from four to six ounces of fine sugar1 some grated lemon-peel1 powdered cinnamon1 and a small portion of pounded cloves4 ,in a few minutes stir to the sauce a dessertspoonful of potato-flour1 smoothly mixed with a very little cold water2 continue to stir until it is again ready to boil1 and serve it1 either poured entirely over the pudding1 or in a tureen4 ,,common ,,batter ,,pudding4 ,beat four eggs thoroughly1 mix with them half a pint of milk1 and pass them through a sieve1 add them by degrees to half a pound of flour1 and when the batter is perfectly smooth1 thin it with another half pint of milk4 ,shake out a wet pudding cloth1 flour it well1 pour the batter in1 leave it room to swell1 tie it securely1 and put it immediately into plenty of fast-boiling water4 ,an hour and ten minutes will boil it4 ,send it to table the instant it is dished1 with wine sauce1 a hot compte of fruit1 or raspberry vinegar3 this last makes a delicious pudding sauce4 ,unless the liquid be added very gradually to the flour1 and the mixture be well stirred and beaten as each portion is poured to it1 the batter will not be smooth3 to render it very light1 a portion of the whites of the eggs1 or the whole of them1 should be whisked to a froth and stirred into it just before it is put into the cloth4 ,flour1 #a_/b lb42 eggs1 #d2 salt1 #c_/d teaspoonful2 milk1 #a pint3 #a hour and #aj minutes4 ,obs4--,modern taste is in favour of puddings boiled in moulds1 but1 as we have already stated1 they are seldom or ever so light as those which are tied in cloths only4 ,,another ,,batter ,,pudding4 ,mix the yolks of three eggs smoothly with three heaped tablespoonsful of flour1 thin the batter with new milk until it is of the consistence of cream1 whisk the whites of eggs apart1 stir them into the batter and boil the pudding in a floured cloth or in a buttered mould or basin for an hour4 ,before it is served1 cut the top quickly into large dice half through the pudding1 pour over it a small jarful of fine currant1 raspberry1 or strawberry jelly1 and send it to table without the slightest delay4 ,flour1 #c tablespoonsful2 eggs1 #c2 salt1 #a_/b teaspoonful2 milk1 from #a_/b to whole pint3 #a hour4 ,,black-,,cap ,,pudding4 ,make a good light thin batter1 and just before it is poured into the cloth stir to it half a pound of currants1 well cleaned and dried3 these will sink to the lower part of the pudding and blacken the surface4 ,boil it the usual time1 and dish it with the dark side uppermost2 send very sweet sauce to table with it4 ,some cooks butter a mould thickly1 strew in the currants1 and pour the batter on them1 which produces the same appearance as when the ingredients are tied in a cloth4 ,all batter puddings should be despatched quickly to table when they are once ready to serve1 as they speedily become heavy if allowed to wait4 ,,batter ,,fruit ,,pudding4 ,butter thickly a basin which holds a pint and a half1 and fill it nearly to the brim with good boiling apples pared1 cored1 and quartered2 pour over them a batter made with four tablespoonsful of flour1 two large or three small eggs1 and half a pint of milk4 ,tie a buttered and floured cloth over the basin1 which ought to be quite full1 and boil the pudding for an hour and a quarter4 ,turn it into a hot dish when done1 and strew sugar thickly over it3 this1 if added to the batter at first1 renders it heavy4 ,morella cherries make a very superior pudding of this kind2 and green gooseberries1 damsons1 and various other fruits1 answer for it extremely well3 the time of boiling it must be varied according to their quality and its size4 ,for a pint and a half mould or basin filled to the brim with apples or other fruit2 flour1 #d tablespoonsful2 eggs1 #b large or #c small2 milk1 #a_/b pint3 #a-a_/d hour4 ,obs4--,apples cored1 halved1 and mixed with a good batter1 make an excellent baked pudding1 as do red currants1 cherries1 and plums of different sorts likewise4 ,,kentish ,,suet ,,pudding4 ,to a pound and a quarter of flour add half a pound of finely minced beef-suet1#ade half a teaspoonful of salt1 and a quarter one of pepper2 mix these into a smooth paste with one well-beaten egg1 and a little cold milk or water2 make it into the shape of a paste-roller1 fold a floured cloth round it1 tie the ends tightly1 and boil it for two hours4 ,in ,kentish farmhouses1 and at very plain family dinners1 this pudding is usually sent to table with boiled beef1 and is sometimes cooked with it also4 ,it is very good sliced and broiled1 or browned in a ,dutch oven1 after having become quite cold4 ,footnote #ade3 ,a very common fault with bad and careless cooks is1 that of using for paste and puddings suet coarsely chopped1 which is1 to many eaters1 distasteful to the last degree4 ,flour1 #a-a_/b lb42 suet1 #a_/b lb42 salt #a_/b teaspoonful2 half as much pepper2 #a egg2 little milk or water3 boiled #b hours4 ,,another ,,suet ,,pudding4 ,make into a somewhat lithe but smooth paste1 half a pound of fine stale bread-crumbs1 three quarters of a pound of flour1 from ten to twelve ounces of beef-suet chopped extremely small1 a large half-teaspoonful of salt1 and rather less of pepper1 with two eggs and a little milk4 ,boil it for two hours and a quarter4 ,,apple1 ,,currant1 ,,cherry1 ,,or ,,other ,,fresh ,,fruit ,,pudding4 ,make a paste as for a beef-steak pudding1 either with suet or butter2 lay into a basin a well-floured cloth1 which has been dipped into hot water1 wrung dry1 and shaken out2 roll the paste thin1 press it evenly into the basin upon the cloth1 fill it with apples1 pared1 cored1 and quartered1 or with any other fruit2 put on the cover1 taking care to moisten the edges of the paste1 to press them well together1 and fold them over2 gather up the ends of the cloth1 and tie it firmly close to the pudding1 which should then be dropped into plenty of fast boiling water4 ,when it is done1 lift it out by twisting a strong fork into the corner of the cloth1 turn it gently into the dish in which it is to be served1 and cut immediately a small round or square from the top1 or the pudding will quickly become heavy2 send it to table without the slightest delay1 accompanied by pounded1 and by good ,lisbon sugar1 as many persons prefer the latter1 from its imparting a more mellowed flavour to the fruit4 ,a small slice of fresh butter1 and some finely grated nutmeg1 are usually considered improvements to an apple pudding2 the juice1 and the grated rind of a lemon may be added with good effect1 when the fruit is laid into the crust1 especially in spring1 when the apples generally will have become insipid in their flavour4 ,for tables of any pretension1 sugar must be added to them when they are made2 but many varieties of apple do not so readily form a smooth light pulp when it is enclosed with them in the paste4 ,a small jar of apricot jam is always an admirable addition to an apple tart or pudding2 and a small glass of wine when the fruit is not juicy1 will assist to bring it to the right consistence4 ,when puddings are preferred boiled in moulds or basins1 these must be thickly buttered before the paste is laid into them1 and the puddings must be turned from them gently1 that they may not burst4 ,currant1 gooseberry1 or cherry pudding1 #a to #a-a_/d hour4 ,greengage1 damson1 mussel1 or other plum1 #a to #a-a_/b hour4 ,apple pudding1 from #a to #b hours1 according to its size1 and the time of year4 ,obs4--,if made of codlings1 an apple pudding will require only so much boiling as may be needed for the crust4 ,these are sometimes mixed with ,morella cherries rolled in plenty of sugar1 and the two fruits mixed are excellent1 but the ,morellas by themselves are better4 ,a ,,common ,,apple ,,pudding4 ,make a light crust with one pound of flour1 and six ounces of very finely minced beef-suet2 roll it thin1 and fill it with one pound and a quarter of good boiling apples2 add the grated rind and strained juice of a small lemon1 tie it in a cloth1 and boil it one hour and twenty minutes before ,christmas1 and from twenty to thirty minutes longer after ,christmas4 ,a small slice of fresh butter1 stirred into it when it is sweetened will1 to many tastes1 be an acceptable addition2 grated nutmeg1 or a little cinnamon in fine powder1 may be substituted for the lemon-rind when either is preferred4 ,to convert this into a richer pudding use half a pound of butter for the crust1 and add to the apples a spoonful or two of orange or quince marmalade4 ,crust3 flour1 #a lb42 suet1 #f oz4 ,fruit1 pared and cored1 #a-a_/b lb42 juice and rind of #a small lemon 7or some nutmeg or cinnamon in powder74 ,richer pudding3 flour1 #a lb42 butter1 #a_/b lb42 in addition to fruit1 #a or #b tablespoonsful of orange or quince marmalade4 ,,herodotus' ,,pudding4 7,a ,genuine ,classical ,receipt47 8,prepare and mix in the usual manner one pound of fine raisins stoned1 one pound of minced beef-suet1 half a pound of bread-crumbs1 four figs chopped small1 two tablespoonsful of moist sugar 7honey1 in the original71 two wineglassesful of sherry1 and the rind of half a large lemon 7grated74 ,boil the pudding for fourteen hours40 ,obs4--,this receipt is really to be found in ,herodotus4 ,the only variations made in it are the substitution of sugar for honey1 and sherry for the wine of ancient ,greece4 ,we are indebted for it to an accomplished scholar1 who has had it served at his own table on more than one occasion2 and we have given it on his authority1 without testing it3 but we venture to suggest that seven hours would boil it quite sufficiently4 ,,the ,,publisher',s ,,pudding4 ,this pudding can scarcely be made too rich4 ,first blanch1 and then beat to the smoothest possible paste1 six ounces of fresh ,jordan almonds1 and a dozen bitter ones2 pour very gradually to them1 in the mortar1 three quarters of a pint of boiling cream2 then turn them into a cloth1 and wring it from them again with strong expression4 ,heat a full half pint of it afresh1 and pour it1 as soon as it boils1 upon four ounces of fine bread-crumbs1 set a plate over1 and leave them to become nearly cold2 then mix thoroughly with them four ounces of maccaroons1 crushed tolerably small2 five of finely minced beef-suet1 five of marrow1 cleared very carefully from fibre1 and from the splinters of bone which are sometimes found in it1 and shred not very small1 two ounces of flour1 six of pounded sugar1 four of dried cherries1 four of the best ,muscatel raisins1 weighed after they are stoned1 half a pound of candied citron1 or of citron and orange rind mixed1 a quarter saltspoonful of salt1 half a nutmeg1 the yolks only of seven full-sized eggs1 the grated rind of a large lemon1 and last of all1 a glass of the best ,cognac brandy1 which must be stirred briskly in by slow degrees4 ,pour the mixture into a thickly buttered mould or basin1 which contains a full quart1 fill it to the brim1 lay a sheet of buttered writing-paper over1 then a well-floured cloth1 tie them securely1 and boil the pudding for four hours and a quarter2 let it stand for two minutes before it is turned out2 dish it carefully1 and serve it with the ,german pudding-sauce of page #djc4 ,jordan almonds1 #f oz42 bitter almonds1 #ab2 cream1 #c_/d pint2 bread-crumbs1 #d oz42 cream wrung from almonds1 #a_/b pint2 crushed macaroons1 #d oz42 flour #b oz42 beef-suet1 #e oz42 marrow1 #e oz42 dried cherries1 #d oz42 stoned ,muscatel raisins1 #d oz42 pounded sugar1 #f oz42 candied citron 7or citron and orange-rind mixed71 #a_/b lb42 pinch of salt2 #a_/b nutmeg2 grated rind1 #a lemon2 yolks of eggs1 #g2 best cognac1 #a wineglassful2 boiled in mould or basin13 #d-a_/d hours4 ,obs4--,this pudding1 which1 if well made1 is very light as well as rich1 will be sufficiently good for most tastes without the almonds3 when they are omitted1 the boiling cream must be poured at once to the bread-crumbs4 ,,her ,,majesty',s ,,pudding4 ,infuse in a pint of new milk half a pod of vanilla1 cut into short lengths1 and bruised2 simmer them gently together for twenty minutes1 and strain the milk through muslin to half a pint of cream2 put these again on the fire in a clean saucepan1 with three ounces of fine sugar1 and pour them when they boil1 to the beaten yolks of eight very fresh eggs4 ,stir the mixture often until it is nearly or quite cold1 and boil it as gently as possible for an hour in a well-buttered mould or basin that will just hold it4 ,let it stand for five minutes at least before it is turned out2 dish it carefully1 strew1 and garnish it thickly with branches of preserved barberries1 or send it to table with a rich syrup of fresh fruit1 or with clear fruit-jelly1 melted4 ,we have had often a compte 7see ,sweet ,dishes1 page #aec7 of currants1 cherries1 or plums served1 and greatly relished with this pudding1 which we can recommend to our readers as an extremely delicate one4 ,the flavouring may be varied with bitter almonds1 lemon-rind1 noyau1 or aught else which may be better liked than the vanilla4 ,new milk1 #a pint2 vanilla1 #a_/b pod3 #bj minutes ,cream1 #a_/b pint2 sugar1 #c oz42 yolks of eggs1 #h3 #a hour4 ,obs4--,the cook must be reminded that unless the eggs be stirred briskly as the boiling milk is gradually poured to them1 they will be likely to curdle4 ,a buttered paper should always be put over the basin before the cloth is tied on1 for all custard puddings4 ,,common ,,custard ,,pudding4 ,whisk three eggs well1 put them into a pint basin1 and add to them sufficient milk to fill it3 then strain1 flavour1 and sweeten it with fine sugar2 boil the pudding very softly for an exact half hour1 let it stand a few minutes1 dish1 and serve it with sugar sifted over1 and sweet sauce in a tureen1 or send stewed gooseberries1 currants1 or cherries to table with it4 ,a small quantity of lemon-brandy1 or of ratifia can be added1 to give it flavour1 when it is made1 or the sugar with which it is sweetened may be rasped on a lemon or an orange1 then crushed and dissolved in the milk2 from an ounce and a half to two ounces will be sufficient for general taste4 ,,prince ,,albert',s ,,pudding4 ,beat to a cream half a pound of fresh butter and mix with it by degrees an equal weight of pounded loaf-sugar1 dried and sifted2 add to these1 after they have been well beaten together1 first the yolks1 and then the whites of five fresh eggs1 which have been thoroughly whisked apart2 now strew lightly in1 half a pound of the finest flour1 dried and sifted1 and last of all1 half a pound of jar raisins1 weighed after they are stoned4 ,put these ingredients1 perfectly mixed1 into a well-buttered mould1 or floured cloth1 and boil the pudding for three hours4 ,serve it with punch sauce4 ,we recommend a little pounded mace1 or the grated rind of a small lemon1 to vary the flavour of this excellent pudding2 and that when a mould is used1 slices of candied peel should be laid rather thickly over it after it is buttered4 ,fresh butter1 pounded sugar1 flour1 stoned raisins1 each #a_/b lb42 eggs1 #e3 #c hours4 ,,german ,,pudding1 ,,and ,,sauce4 7,,very ,,good47 ,stew1 until very tender and dry1 three ounces of whole rice in a pint and a quarter of milk2 when a little cooled1 mix with it three ounces of beef-suet finely chopped1 two ounces and a half of sugar1 an ounce of candied orange or lemon-rind1 six ounces of sultana raisins1 and three large eggs well beaten1 and strained4 ,boil the pudding in a buttered basin1 or in a well-floured cloth1 for two hours and a quarter1 and serve it with the following sauce3--,dissolve an ounce and a half of sugar broken small in two glasses of sherry1 or of any other white wine1 and stir them when quite hot1 to the beaten yolks of three fresh eggs2 then stir the sauce in a small saucepan held high above the fire until it resembles custard1 but by no means allow it to boil1 or it will instantly curdle2 pour it over the pudding1 or1 if preferred1 send it to table in a tureen4 ,we think a full teaspoonful of lemon-juice added to the wine an improvement to this sauce which is excellent2 and we can recommend the pudding to our readers4 ,milk1 #a-a_/d pint2 rice1 #c oz42 #a hour1 or more4 ,suet1 #c oz42 sugar1 #b-a_/b oz42 candied peel1 #a oz42 sultana raisins1 #f oz42 eggs1 #c large3 #b-a_/d hours1 ,sauce3 sherry1 #b glasses2 sugar1 #a-a_/b oz42 yolks of eggs1 #c2 little lemon-juice4 ,we have already1 in a previous part of the volume1 directed that the ,german sauce should be milled to a fine froth1 and poured upon the pudding with which it is served3 when this is not done1 the quantity should be increased4 ,,the ,,welcome ,,guest',s ,,own ,,pudding4 7,,light ,,and ,,wholesome47 7,author's ,receipt47 ,pour1 quite boiling1 on four ounces of fine bread-crumbs1 an exact half-pint of new milk1 or of thin cream2 lay a plate over the basin and let them remain until cold2 then stir to them four ounces of dry crumbs of bread1 four of very finely minced beef-kidney suet1 a small pinch of salt1 three ounces of coarsely crushed ratifias1 three ounces of candied citron and orange-rind sliced thin1 and the grated rind of one large or of two small lemons4 ,clear1 and whisk four large eggs well1 throw to them by degrees four ounces of pounded sugar1 and continue to whisk them until it is dissolved1 and they are very light2 stir them to1 and beat them well up with the other ingredients2 pour the mixture into a thickly buttered mould1 or basin which will contain nearly a quart1 and which it should fill to within half an inch of the brim2 lay first a buttered paper1 then a well floured pudding-cloth over the top1 tie them tightly and very securely round1 gather up and fasten the corners of the cloth1 and boil the pudding for two hours at the utmost4 ,let it stand for a minute or two before it is dished1 and serve it with simple wine sauce1 or with that which follows2 or with pine-apple or any other clear fruitsauce4 7,for these last1 see page #dje74 ,boil very gently1 for about ten minutes1 a full quarter of a pint of water1 with the very thin rind of half a fresh lemon1 and an ounce and a half of lump sugar2 then take out the lemon peel1 and stir in a small teaspoonful of arrow-root1 smoothly mixed with the strained juice of the lemon 7with or without the addition of a little orange juice72 take the sauce from the fire1 throw in nearly half a glass of pale ,french brandy1#adf or substitute for this a large wineglassful of sherry1 or of any other white wine which may be preferred1 but increase a little1 in that case1 the proportion of arrow-root4 ,footnote #adf3 ,maraschino1 or any delicately flavoured liqueur1 may be substituted for this with much advantage4 ,to convert the preceding into ,sir ,edwin ,landseer's pudding1 ornament the mould tastefully with small leaves of thin citron-rind and split muscatel raisins in a pattern1 and strew the intermediate spaces with well cleaned and well dried currants mingled with plenty of candied orange or lemon-rind shred small4 ,pour gently in the above pudding mixture1 when quite cold1 after having added one egg-yolk to it1 and steam or boil it the same length of time4 ,a ,,cabinet ,,pudding4 ,split and stone three dozens of fine jar raisins1 or take an equal number of dried cherries1 and place either of them regularly in a sort of pattern1 in a thickly-buttered plain quart mould or basin2 next1 slice and lay into it three penny sponge-cakes2 add to these two ounces of ratifias1 four macaroons1 an ounce and a half of candied citron sliced thin1 the yolks of four eggs with the whites of three only1 thoroughly whisked1 mixed with half a pint of new milk1 then strained to half a pint of sweet cream1 and sweetened with two ounces and a half of pounded sugar3 these ought to fill the mould exactly4 ,steam the pudding1 or boil it very gently for one hour2 let it stand a few minutes before it is dished1 that it may not break2 and serve it with good wine or brandy sauce4 ,jar raisins1 or dried cherries1 #c dozens 7quart mould or basin72 sponge biscuits1 #c2 macaroons1 #d2 ratifias1 #b oz42 candied citron1 #a-a_/b oz42 yolks of #d eggs1 whites of #c2 new milk1 #a_/b pint2 cream1 #a_/b pint2 sugar1 #b-a_/b oz42 steamed1 or boiled1 #a hour4 ,obs4--,we have given this receipt1 for which we are indebted to a friend1 without any variation from the original1 because on testing it we have found it very exact with regard to quantity and time2 but though an extremely delicate and excellent pudding1 a little flavouring would1 we think1 improve it3 a small portion of the milk may be omitted1 and its place supplied by ratifia1 lemon-brandy1 or aught else that is preferred4 ,a ,,very ,,fine ,,cabinet ,,pudding4 ,butter thickly a mould of the same size as for the preceding pudding1 and ornament it tastefully with dried cherries1 or with the finest muscatel raisins opened and stoned2 lay lightly into it a quarter-pound of sponge biscuit cut in slices1 and intermixed with an equal weight of ratifias2 sweeten with three ounces of sugar in lumps1 and flavour highly with vanilla1 or with the thin rind of half a fine lemon1 and six sound bitter almonds bruised 7should these be preferred71 three-quarters of a pint1 or rather more1 of thin cream1 or of cream and new milk mixed2 strain and pour this hot to the well-beaten yolks of six eggs and the whites of two1 and when the mixture is nearly cold1 throw in gradually a wineglassful of good brandy2 pour it gently1 and by degrees1 into the mould1 and steam or boil the pudding very softly for an hour4 ,serve it with well made wine sauce4 ,never omit a buttered paper over any sort of custard-mixture2 and remember that quick boiling will destroy the good appearance of this kind of pudding4 ,the liquid should be quite cold before it is added to the cakes1 or the butter on the mould would melt off1 and the decorations with it2 preserved ginger1 and candied citron in slices1 may be used to vary these1 and the syrup of the former may be added to give flavour to the other ingredients4 ,dried cherries1 #c to #d oz42 sponge-biscuits1 #a_/d lb42 ratifias1 #d oz42 thin cream1 or cream and milk1 #c_/d pint2 sugar1 #c oz42 vanilla1 #a_/b pod 7or thin rind of #a_/b lemon and #f bitter almonds bruised72 yolks of #f eggs1 whites of #b2 brandy1 #a wineglassful 7preserved ginger and candied citron at choice73 steamed1 or gently boiled1 #a hour4 ,,snowdon ,,pudding4 7,genuine ,receipt47 ,ornament a well buttered mould or basin with some fine raisins split open and stoned1 but not divided1 pressing the cut side on the butter to make them adhere2 next1 mix half a pound of very finely minced beef-kidney suet1 with half a pound of bread-crumbs1 and an ounce and a half of rice-flour1 a pinch of salt1 and six ounces of lemon marmalade1 or of orange when the lemon cannot be procured2 add six ounces of pale brown sugar1 six thoroughly whisked eggs1 and the grated rinds of two lemons4 ,beat the whole until all the ingredients are perfectly mixed1 pour it gently into the mould1 cover it with a buttered paper and a floured cloth1 and boil it for one hour and a half4 ,it will turn out remarkably well if carefully prepared4 ,half the quantity given above will fill a mould or basin which will contain rather more than a pint1 and will be sufficiently boiled in ten minutes less than an hour4 ,to many tastes a slight diminution in the proportion of suet would be an improvement to the pudding2 and the substitution of pounded sugar for the brown1 might likewise be considered so4 ,both the suet and eggs used for it1 should be as fresh as possible4 ,this pudding is constantly served to travellers at the hotel at the foot of the mountain from which it derives its name4 ,it is probably well known to many of our readers in consequence4 ,wine sauce1 arrow-root1 ,german sauce1 or any other of the sweet pudding sauces to be found in the preceding pages of this chapter1 may be poured over1 or sent to table with it4 ,,very ,,good ,,raisin ,,puddings4 ,to three quarters of a pound of flour add four ounces of fine crumbs of bread1 one pound of beef-suet1 a pound and six ounces of raisins1 weighed after they are stoned1 a quarter of a teaspoonful of salt1 rather more of ginger1 half a nutmeg1 an ounce and a half of candied peel1 and four large or five small eggs beaten1 strained1 and mixed with a cupful of milk1 or as much more as will make the whole of the consistence of a very thick batter4 ,pour the mixture into a well-floured cloth of close texture1 which has previously been dipped into hot water1 wrung1 and shaken out4 ,boil the pudding in plenty of water for four hours and a half4 ,it may be served with very sweet wine1 or punch sauce2 but if made as we have directed1 will be much lighter than if sugar be mixed with the other ingredients before it is boiled2 and we have found it generally preferred to a richer plum-pudding4 ,no4 #a4 ,flour1 #c_/d lb42 bread-crumbs1 #d oz42 beef-suet1 #a lb42 stoned raisins1 #a lb4 #f oz42 candied peel1 #a-a_/b oz42 #a_/b nutmeg2 eggs1 #d large1 or #e small2 little salt and ginger3 #d-a_/b hours4 ,superior ,raisin ,pudding4--,no4 #b4 ,bread-crumbs and flour each #d oz42 suet1 #ab oz42 stoned raisins1 #a lb42 salt1 third of saltspoonful2 #a_/b nutmeg2 ginger1 #a_/b teaspoonful2 half as much mace2 sugar1 #d oz42 candied citron or orange-rind1 #b oz42 eggs1 #d2 milk or brandy1 #c to #e tablespoonsful3 to be well mixed and beaten together and boiled #d hours4 ,obs4--,the remains of this pudding will answer well for the receipt which follows4 ,sultana raisins can be used for it instead of ,malaga1 but they are not so sweet4 ,,the ,,elegant ,,economist',s ,,pudding4 ,butter thickly a plain mould or basin1 and line it entirely with slices of cold plum or raisin pudding1 cut so as to join closely and neatly together2 fill it quite with a good custard2 lay1 first a buttered paper1 and then a floured cloth over it1 tie them securely1 and boil the pudding gently for an hour2 let it stand for ten minutes after it is taken up before it is turned out of the mould4 ,this is a more tasteful mode of serving the remains of a plum-pudding than the usual one of broiling them in slices1 or converting them into fritters4 ,the ,german sauce1 well milled or frothed1 is generally much relished with sweet boiled puddings1 and adds greatly to their good appearance2 but common wine or punch sauce1 may be sent to table with the above quite as appropriately4 ,mould or basin holding #a-a_/b pint1 lined with thin slices of plum-pudding2 #c_/d pint new milk boiled gently #e minutes with grain of salt1 #e bitter almonds1 bruised2 sugar in lumps1 #b-a_/b oz42 thin rind of #a_/b lemon1 strained and mixed directly with #d large well-beaten eggs2 poured into mould while just warm2 boiled gently #a hour4 ,,pudding ,,la ,,scoones4 ,take of apples finely minced1 and of currants1 six ounces each2 of suet1 chopped small1 sultana raisins1 picked from the stalks1 and sugar1 four ounces each1 with three ounces of fine bread-crumbs1 the grated rind1 and the strained juice of a small lemon1 three well-beaten eggs1 and two spoonsful of brandy4 ,mix these ingredients perfectly1 and boil the pudding for two hours in a buttered basin2 sift sugar over it when it is sent to table1 and serve wine or punch sauce apart4 ,,ingoldsby ,,christmas ,,puddings4 ,mix very thoroughly one pound of finely-grated bread with the same quantity of flour1 two pounds of raisins stoned1 two of currants1 two of suet minced small1 one of sugar1 half a pound of candied peel1 one nutmeg1 half an ounce of mixed spice1 and the grated rinds of two lemons2 mix the whole with sixteen eggs well beaten and strained1 and add four glasses of brandy4 ,these proportions will make three puddings of good size1 each of which should be boiled six hours4 ,bread-crumbs1 #a lb42 flour1 #a lb42 suet1 #b lbs42 currants1 #b lbs42 raisins1 #b lbs42 sugar1 #a lb42 candied peel1 #a_/b lb42 rinds of lemons1 #b2 nutmegs1 #a2 mixed spice1 #a_/b oz42 salt1 #a_/d teaspoonsful2 eggs1 #af2 brandy1 #d glassesful3 #f hours4 ,obs4--,a fourth part of the ingredients given above1 will make a pudding of sufficient size for a small party3 to render this very rich1 half the flour and bread-crumbs may be omitted1 and a few spoonsful of apricot marmalade well blended with the remainder of the mixture4#adg ,footnote #adg3 ,rather less liquid will be required to moisten the pudding when this is done1 and four hours and a quarter will boil it4 ,,small ,,and ,,very ,,light ,,plum ,,pudding4 ,with three ounces of the crumb of a stale loaf finely grated and soaked in a quarter of a pint of boiling milk1 mix six ounces of suet minced very small1 one ounce of dry bread-crumbs1 ten ounces of stoned raisins1 a little salt1 the grated rind of a china-orange1 and three eggs1 leaving out one white4 ,boil the pudding for two hours and serve it with very sweet sauce2 put no sugar in it4 ,,vegetable ,,plum ,,pudding4 7,cheap and good47 ,mix well together one pound of smoothly-mashed potatoes1 half a pound of carrots boiled quite tender1 and beaten to a paste1 one pound of flour1 one of currants1 and one of raisins 7full weight after they are stoned71 three quarters of a pound of sugar1 eight ounces of suet1 one nutmeg1 and a quarter of a teaspoonful of salt4 ,put the pudding into a well-floured cloth1 tie it up very closely1 and boil it for four hours4 ,the correspondent to whom we are indebted for this receipt says1 that the cost of the ingredients does not exceed half a crown1 and that the pudding is of sufficient size for a party of sixteen persons4 ,we can vouch for its excellence1 but as it is rather apt to break when turned out of the cloth1 a couple of eggs would perhaps improve it4 ,it is excellent cold4 ,sweetmeats1 brandy1 and spices can be added at pleasure4 ,mashed potatoes1 #a lb42 carrots1 #h oz42 flour1 #a lb42 suet1 #a_/b lb42 sugar1 #c_/d lb42 currants and raisins1 #a lb4 each2 nutmeg1 #a2 little salt4 #d hours4 ,,the ,,author',s ,,christmas ,,pudding4 ,to three ounces of flour and the same weight of fine1 lightly-grated bread-crumbs1 add six of beef kidney-suet1 chopped small1 six of raisins weighed after they are stoned1 six of well-cleaned currants1 four ounces of minced apples1 five of sugar1 two of candied orange rind1 half a teaspoonful of nutmeg mixed with pounded mace1 a very little salt1 a small glass of brandy1 and three whole eggs4 ,mix and beat these ingredients well together1 tie them tightly in a thickly-floured cloth1 and boil them for three hours and a half4 ,we can recommend this as a remarkably light small rich pudding3 it may be served with ,german1 wine1 or punch sauce4 ,flour1 #c oz42 bread-crumbs1 #c oz42 suet1 stoned raisins1 and currants1 each1 #f oz42 minced apples1 #d oz42 sugar1 #e oz42 candied peel1 #b oz42 spice1 #a_/b teaspoonful2 salt1 few grains2 brandy1 small wineglassful2 eggs1 #c2 #c-a_/b hours4 ,a ,,kentish ,,well ,,pudding4 ,make into a firm smooth paste1 with cold water1 one pound of flour1 six ounces of finely-minced beef-suet1 three quarters of a pound of currants1 and a small pinch of salt1 thoroughly mixed together4 ,form into a ball six ounces of good butter1 and enclose it securely in about a third of the paste 7rolled to a half inch of thickness71 in the same way that an apple-dumpling is made2 roll out the remainder of the paste1 and place the portion containing the butter in the centre of it1 with the part where the edge was drawn together turned downwards3 gather the outer crust round it1 and after having moistened the edge1 close it with great care4 ,tie the pudding tightly in a well-floured cloth1 and boil it for two hours and a half4 ,it must be dished with caution that it may not break1 and a small bit must be cut directly from the top1 as in a meat pudding4 7,see page #djj74 ,this is a very favourite pudding in some parts of ,england2 the only difficulty in making or in serving it1 is to prevent the escape of the butter1 which1 if properly secured1 will be found in a liquid state in the inside1 on opening it4 ,some timid cooks fold it in three coverings of paste1 the better to guard against its bursting through2 but there is no danger of this if the edges of the crust be well closed4 ,when suet is objected to1 seven ounces of butter may be substituted for it4 ,the currants are occasionally omitted4 ,flour1 #a lb42 suet1 #f oz42 currants1 #c_/d lb42 salt1 small pinch2 ball of butter #f oz43 #b-a_/b hours4 ,,rolled ,,pudding4 ,roll out thin a bit of light puff paste1 or a good suet crust1 and spread equally over it to within an inch of the edge1 any kind of fruit jam4 ,orange marmalade1 and mincemeat make excellent varieties of this pudding1 and a deep layer of fine brown sugar1 flavoured with the grated rind and strained juice of one very large1 or of two small1 lemons1 answers for it extremely well4 ,roll it up carefully1 pinch the paste together at the ends1 fold a cloth round1 secure it well at the ends1 and boil the pudding from one to two hours1 according to its size and the nature of the ingredients4 ,half a pound of flour made into a paste with suet or butter1 and covered with preserve1 will be quite sufficiently boiled in an hour and a quarter4 ,a ,,bread ,,pudding4 ,sweeten a pint of new milk with three ounces of fine sugar1 throw in a few grains of salt1 and pour it boiling on half a pound of fine and lightly-grated bread-crumbs2 add an ounce of fresh butter1 and cover them with a plate2 let them remain for half an hour or more1 and then stir to them four large well-whisked eggs1 and a flavouring of nutmeg or of lemon-rind2 pour the mixture into a thickly-buttered mould or basin1 which holds a pint and a half1 and which ought to be quite full2 tie a paper and a cloth tightly over1 and boil the pudding for exactly an hour and ten minutes4 ,this is quite a plain receipt1 but by omitting two ounces of the bread1 and adding more butter1 one egg1 a small glass of brandy1 the grated rind of a lemon1 and as much sugar as will sweeten the whole richly1 a very excellent pudding will be obtained2 candied orange-peel also has a good effect when sliced thinly into it2 and half a pound of currants is generally considered a further improvement4 ,new milk1 #a pint2 sugar1 #c oz42 salt1 few grains2 bread-crumbs1 #a_/b lb42 eggs1 #d 7#e1 if very small72 nutmeg or lemon-rind at pleasure3 #a hour and #aj minutes4 ,or3 milk1 #a pint2 bread-crumbs1 #f oz42 butter1 #b to #c oz42 sugar1 #d oz42 eggs1 #e2 brandy1 small glassful2 rind1 #a lemon4 ,further additions at choice3 candied peel1 #a-a_/b oz42 currants1 #a_/b lb4 ,a ,,brown ,,bread ,,pudding4 ,to half a pound of stale brown bread1 finely and lightly grated1 add an equal weight of suet chopped small1 and of currants cleaned and dried1 with half a saltspoonful of salt1 three ounces of sugar1 the third of a small nutmeg grated1 two ounces of candied peel1 five well-beaten eggs1 and a glass of brandy4 ,mix these ingredients thoroughly1 and boil the pudding in a cloth for three hours and a half4 ,send port wine sauce to table with it4 ,the grated rind of a large lemon may be added to this pudding with good effect4 ,brown bread1 suet1 and currants1 each #h oz42 sugar1 #c oz42 candied peel1 #b oz42 salt1 #a_/b saltspoonful2 #a_/c of small nutmeg2 eggs1 #e2 brandy1 #a wineglassful3 #c-a_/b hours4 ,a ,,good ,,boiled ,,rice ,,pudding4 ,swell gradually1#adh and boil until quite soft and thick1 four ounces and a half of whole rice in a pint and a half of new milk2 sweeten them with from three to four ounces of sugar1 broken small1 and stir to them while they are still quite hot1 the grated rind of half a large lemon1 four or five bitter almonds1 pounded to a paste1 and four large well-whisked eggs2 let the mixture cool1 and then pour it into a thickly-buttered basin1 or mould1 which should be quite full2 tie a buttered paper and a floured cloth over it1 and boil the pudding exactly an hour2 let it stand for two or three minutes before it is turned out1 and serve it with sweet sauce1 fruit syrup1 or a compte of fresh fruit4 ,an ounce and a half of candied orange-rind will improve it much1 and a couple of ounces of butter may be added to enrich it1 when the receipt without is considered too simple4 ,it is excellent when made with milk highly flavoured with cocoa-nut1 or with vanilla4 ,footnote #adh3 ,that is to say1 put the rice into the milk while cold1 heat it slowly1 and let it only simmer until it is done4 ,whole rice1 #d-a_/b oz42 new milk 7or cocoa-nut-flavoured milk71 #a-a_/b pint2 sugar1 #c to #d oz42 salt1 a few grains2 bitter almonds1 #d to #f2 rind of #a_/b lemon2 eggs1 #d3 boiled #a hour4 ,,cheap ,,rice ,,pudding4 ,wash six ounces of rice1 mix it with three quarters of a pound of raisins1 tie them in a well-floured cloth1 giving them plenty of room to swell2 boil them exactly an hour and three quarters1 and serve the pudding with very sweet sauce3 this is a nice dish for the nursery4 ,a pound of apples pared1 cored1 and quartered1 will also make a very wholesome pudding1 mixed with the rice1 and boiled from an hour and a quarter to an hour and a half2 and sultana raisins and rice will give another good variety of this simple pudding4 ,rice1 #f oz42 raisins1 #a_/b lb43 #b hours4 ,or1 rice1 #f oz42 apples1 #a lb43 #a-a_/d to #a-a_/b hour4 ,,rice ,,and ,,gooseberry ,,pudding4 ,spread six ounces of rice equally over a moist and well-floured pudding-cloth1 and place on it a pint of green gooseberries1 measured after the heads and stalks have been taken off4 ,gather the cloth up carefully round the fruit1 give room for the rice to swell1 and boil the pudding for an hour and a quarter4 ,very sweet sauce1 or plenty of sugar1 should be eaten with it4 ,rice1 #f oz42 green gooseberries1 #a pint3 #a-a_/b hour4 ,,fashionable ,,apple ,,dumplings4 ,these are boiled in small knitted or closely-netted cloths 7the former have1 we think1 the prettiest effect71 which give quite an ornamental appearance to an otherwise homely dish4 ,take out the cores without dividing the apples1 which should be large1 and of a good boiling kind1 and fill the cavities with orange or lemon marmalade2 enclose them in a good crust rolled thin1 draw the cloths round them1 tie them closely1 and boil them for three quarters of an hour4 ,lemon dumplings may be boiled in the same way4 #c_/d to #a hour1 if the apples be not of the best boiling kind4 ,,orange ,,snow-,,balls4 ,take out the unhusked grains1 and wash well half a pound of rice2 put it into plenty of water1 and boil it rather quickly for ten minutes2 drain and let it cool4 ,pare four large1 or five small oranges1 and clear from them entirely the thick white inner skin2 spread the rice1 in as many equal portions as there are oranges1 upon some pudding or dumpling cloths2 tie the fruit separately in these1 and boil the snow-balls for an hour and a half2 turn them carefully on to a dish1 and strew plenty of sifted sugar over them4 ,the oranges carefully pared may be enclosed in a thin paste and boiled for the same time4 ,rice1 #h oz42 ,china oranges1 #e3 #a-a_/b hour4 ,,apple ,,snow-,,balls4 ,pare and core some large pudding-apples1 without dividing them1 prepare the rice as in the foregoing receipt1 enclose them in it1 and boil them for one hour3 ten minutes less will be sufficient should the fruit be but of moderate size4 ,an agreeable addition to them is a slice of fresh butter1 mixed with as much sugar as can be smoothly blended with it1 and a flavouring of powdered cinnamon1 or of nutmeg3 this must be sent to table apart from them1 not in the dish4 ,,light ,,currant ,,dumplings4 ,for each dumpling take three tablespoonsful of flour1 two of finely-minced suet1 and three of currants1 a slight pinch of salt1 and as much milk or water as will make a very thick batter of the ingredients4 ,tie the dumplings in well-floured cloths1 and boil them for a full hour3 they may be served with very sweet wine sauce4 ,,lemon ,,dumplings4 7,,light ,,and ,,good47 ,mix1 with ten ounces of fine bread-crumbs1 half a pound of beef suet1 chopped extremely small1 one large tablespoonful of flour1 the grated rinds of two small lemons1 or of a very large one1 four ounces of pounded sugar1 three large or four small eggs beaten and strained1 and last of all1 the juice of the lemons1 or part of it1 also strained4 ,divide these into four equal portions1 tie them in well-floured cloths1 and boil them an hour4 ,the dumplings will be extremely light and delicate3 if wished very sweet1 more sugar must be added to them4 ,the syrup of preserved ginger would be both a wholesome and appropriate sauce for them4 ,,suffolk1 ,,or ,,hard ,,dumplings4 ,mix a little salt with some flour1 and make it into a smooth and rather lithe paste1 with cold water or skimmed milk2 form it into dumplings1 and throw them into boiling water3 in half an hour they will be ready to serve4 ,a better kind of dumpling is made by adding sufficient milk to the flour to form a thick batter1 and then tying the dumplings in small well-floured cloths4 ,in ,suffolk farmhouses1 they are served with the dripping-pan gravy of roast meat1 and they are sometimes made very small indeed1 and boiled with stewed shin of beef4 ,,norfolk ,,dumplings4 ,take a pound of dough from a baking of very light white bread1 and divide it into six equal parts2 mould these into dumplings1 drop them into a pan of fast boiling water1 and boil them quickly from twelve to fifteen minutes4 ,send them to table the instant they are dished1 with wine sauce or raspberry vinegar4 ,in some counties they are eaten with melted butter1 well sweetened1 and mixed with a little vinegar4 ,they must never be cut1 but should be torn apart with a couple of forks4 ,,sweet ,,boiled ,,patties4 7,,good47 ,mix into a very smooth paste1 three ounces of finely-minced suet with eight of flour1 and a light pinch of salt2 divide it into fourteen balls of equal size1 roll them out quite thin and round1 moisten the edges1 put a little preserve into each1 close the patties very securely to prevent its escape1 throw them into a pan of boiling water1 and in from ten to twelve minutes lift them out1 and serve them instantly4 ,butter-crust may be used for them instead of suet but it will not be so light4 ,flour1 #h oz42 suet1 #c oz42 little salt2 divided into fourteen portions3 boiled #aj to #ab minutes4 ,,boiled ,,rice ,,to ,,be ,,served ,,with ,,stewed ,,fruits1 ,,preserves1 ,,or ,,raspberry ,,vinegar4 ,take out the discoloured grains from half a pound of good rice2 and wash it in several waters2 tie it very loosely in a pudding cloth1 put it into cold water2 heat it slowly1 and boil it for quite an hour1 it will then be quite solid and resemble a pudding in appearance4 ,sufficient room must be given to allow the grain to swell to its full size1 or it will be hard2 but too much space will render the whole watery4 ,with a little experience1 the cook will easily ascertain the exact degree to be allowed for it4 ,four ounces of rice will require quite three quarters of an hour's boiling2 a little more or less of time will sometimes be needed1 from the difference of quality in the grain4 ,it should be put into an abundant quantity of water1 which should be cold and then very slowly heated4 ,carolina rice1 #a_/b lb43 boiled #a hour4 #d oz43 #c_/d hour4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,chapter ,,xxi4 ,baked ,puddings4 ,illustration3 ,pudding garnished with ,preserves4 ,,introductory ,,remarks4 ,illustration3 ,baked ,pudding ,mould4 ,,we have little to add here to the remarks which will be found at the commencement of the preceding ,chapter1 as they will apply equally to the preparation of these and of boiled puddings4 ,all of the custard kind1 whether made of eggs and milk only1 or of sago1 arrow-root1 rice1 ground or in grain1 vermicelli1 c41 require a very gentle oven1 and are spoiled by fast-baking4 ,those made of batter on the contrary1 should be put into one sufficiently brisk to raise them quickly but without scorching them4 ,such as contain suet and raisins must have a well-heated but not a fierce oven2 for as they must remain long in it to be thoroughly done1 unless carefully managed they will either be much too highly coloured or too dry4 ,by whisking to a solid froth the whites of the eggs used for any pudding1 and stirring them softly into it at the instant of placing it in the oven it will be rendered exceedingly light1 and will rise very high in the dish2 but as it will partake then of the nature of a souffl1 it must be despatched with great expedition to table from the oven1 or it will become flat before it is served4 ,when a pudding is sufficiently browned on the surface 7that is to say1 of a fine equal amber-colour7 before it is baked through1 a sheet of writing paper should be laid over it1 but not before it is set3 when quite firm in the centre it will be done4 ,potato1 batter1 plum1 and every other kind of pudding indeed which is sufficiently solid to allow of it1 should be turned on to a clean hot dish from the one in which it is baked1 and strewed with sifted sugar before it is sent to table4 ,minute directions for the preparation and management of each particular variety of pudding will be found in the receipt for it4 ,a ,,baked ,,plum ,,pudding ,,en ,,moule1 ,,or ,,moulded4 ,mingle thoroughly in a large pan or bowl half a pound of the nicest beef-kidney suet minced very small1 half a pound of carefully stoned raisins1 as many currants1 four ounces of pounded sugar1 half a pound of flour1 two ounces of candied citron and lemon or orange rind1 four large well whisked eggs1 a small cup of milk1 a glass of brandy1 a tiny pinch of salt1 and some nutmeg or powdered ginger4 ,beat the whole up lightly1 pour it into a well-buttered mould or cake-tin and bake it in a moderate oven from an hour and a half to two hours4 ,turn it from the mould and send it quickly to table with ,devonshire cream1 or melted apricot marmalade for sauce4 ,,the ,,printer',s ,,pudding4 ,grate very lightly six ounces of the crumb of a stale loaf1 and put it into a deep dish4 ,dissolve in a quart of cold new milk four ounces of good ,lisbon sugar2 add it to five large1 well-whisked eggs1 strain1 and mix them with the bread-crumbs2 stir in two ounces of a fresh finely-grated cocoa-nut2 add a flavouring of nutmeg or of lemon-rind1 and the slightest pinch of salt2 let the pudding stand for a couple of hours to soak the bread2 and bake it in a gentle oven for three-quarters of an hour3 it will be excellent if carefully made1 and not too quickly baked4 ,when the cocoa-nut is not at hand1 an ounce of butter just dissolved1 should be poured over the dish before the crumbs are put into it2 and the rind of an entire lemon may be used to give it flavour2 but the cocoa-nut imparts a peculiar richness when it is good and fresh4 ,bread-crumbs1 #f oz42 new milk1 #a quart2 sugar1 #d oz42 eggs1 #e2 cocoa-nut1 #b oz4 7or rind1 #a large lemon1 and #a oz4 butter72 slightest pinch of salt3 to stand #b hours4 ,baked in gentle oven full #c_/d hour4 ,obs4--,when a very sweet pudding is liked1 the proportion of sugar may be increased4 ,,almond ,,pudding4 ,on two ounces of fine bread-crumbs pour a pint of boiling cream1 and let them remain until nearly cold1 then mix them very gradually with half a pound of sweet and six bitter almonds pounded to the smoothest paste1 with a little orange-flower water1 or with a few drops of spring water1 just to prevent their oiling2 stir to them by degrees the well-beaten yolks of seven and the whites of three eggs1 six ounces of sifted sugar1 and four of clarified butter2 turn the mixture into a very clean stewpan1 and stir it without ceasing over a slow fire until it becomes thick1 but on no account allow it to boil4 ,when it is tolerably cool add a glass of brandy1 or half a one of noyau1 pour the pudding into a dish lined with very thin puff paste1 and bake it half an hour in a moderate oven4 ,bread-crumbs1 #b oz42 cream1 #a pint2 pounded almonds1 #a_/b lb42 bitter almonds1 #f2 yolks of #g1 whites of #c eggs2 sugar1 #f oz42 butter1 #d oz42 brandy1 #a wineglassful1 or #a_/b glass of noyau3 #a_/b hour1 moderate oven4 ,,the ,,young ,,wife',s ,,pudding4 7,author's ,receipt47 ,break separately into a cup four perfectly sweet eggs1 and with the point of a small three-pronged fork clear them from the specks4 ,throw them1 as they are done1 into a large basin1 or a bowl1 and beat them up lightly for four or five minutes1 then add by degrees two ounces and a half of pounded sugar1 with a very small pinch of salt1 and whisk the mixture well1 holding the fork rather loosely between the thumb and fingers2 next1 grate in the rind of a quite fresh lemon1 or substitute for it a tablespoonful of lemon-brandy1 or of orange-flower water1 which should be thrown in by degrees1 and stirred briskly to the eggs4 ,add a pint of cold new milk1 and pour the pudding into a well buttered dish4 ,slice some stale bread1 something more than a quarter of an inch thick1 and with a very small cake-cutter cut sufficient rounds from it to cover the top of the pudding2 butter them thickly with good butter2 lay them1 with the dry side undermost1 upon the pudding1 sift sugar thickly on them1 and set the dish gently into a ,dutch or ,american oven1 which should be placed at the distance of a foot or more from a moderate fire4 ,an hour of very slow baking will be just sufficient to render the pudding firm throughout2 but should the fire be fierce1 or the oven placed too near it1 the receipt will fail4 ,obs4--,we give minute directions for this dish1 because though simple1 it is very delicate and good1 and the same instructions will serve for all the varieties of it which follow4 ,the cook who desires to succeed with them1 must take the trouble to regulate properly the heat of the oven in which they are baked4 ,when it is necessary to place them in that of the kitchen-range the door should be left open for a time to cool it down 7should it be very hot71 before they are placed in it2 and they may be set upon a plate or dish reversed1 if the iron should still remain greatly heated4 ,,the ,,good ,,daughter',s ,,mincemeat ,,pudding4 7,author's ,receipt47 ,lay into a rather deep tart-dish some thin slices of ,french roll very slightly spread with butter and covered with a thick layer of mincemeat2 place a second tier lightly on these1 covered in the same way with the mincemeat2 then pour gently in a custard made with three well-whisked eggs1 three-quarters of a pint of new milk or thin cream1 the slightest pinch of salt1 and two ounces of sugar4 ,let the pudding stand to soak for an hour1 then bake it gently until it is quite firm in the centre3 this will be in from three-quarters of an hour to a full hour4 ,,mrs4 ,,howitt',s ,,pudding4 7,author's ,receipt47 ,butter lightly1 on both sides1 some evenly cut slices of roll1 or of light bread freed from crust1 and spread the tops thickly but uniformly with good orange-marmalade4 ,prepare as much only in this way as will cover the surface of the pudding without the edges of the bread overlaying each other1 as this would make it sink to the bottom of the dish4 ,add the same custard as for the mincemeat-pudding1 but flavour it with ,french brandy only4 ,let it stand for an hour1 then place it gently in a slow oven and bake it until it is quite set1 but no longer4 ,it is an excellent and delicate pudding when properly baked2 but like all which are composed in part of custard1 it will be spoiled by a fierce degree of heat4 ,the bread should be of a light clear brown1 and the custard1 under it1 smooth and firm4 ,this may be composed1 at choice1 of the yolks of four and whites of two eggs1 thoroughly whisked1 first without and then with two tablespoonsful of fine sugar2 to these the milk or cream may then be added4 ,,an ,,excellent ,,lemon ,,pudding4 ,beat well together four ounces of fresh butter creamed1 and eight of sifted sugar2 to these add gradually the yolks of six and the whites of two eggs1 with the grated rind and the strained juice of one large lemon3--this last must be added by slow degrees1 and stirred briskly to the other ingredients4 ,bake the pudding in a dish lined with very thin puff-paste for three-quarters of an hour1 in a slow oven4 ,butter1 #d oz42 sugar1 #a_/b lb42 yolks of #f1 whites of #b eggs2 large lemon1 #a3 #c_/d hour1 slow oven4 ,,lemon ,,suet ,,pudding4 ,to half a pound of finely grated bread-crumbs1 add six ounces of fresh beef-kidney suet1 free from skin1 and minced very small1 a quarter of a pound of castor sugar1 six ounces of currants1 the grated rind and the strained juice of a large lemon1 and four full-sized or five small well-beaten eggs2 pour these ingredients into a thickly-buttered pan1 and bake the pudding for an hour in a brisk oven1 but draw it towards the mouth when it is of a fine brown colour4 ,turn it from the dish before it is served1 and strew sifted sugar over it or not1 at pleasure3 two ounces more of suet can be added when a larger proportion is liked4 ,the pudding is very good without the currants4 ,bread-crumbs1 #h oz42 beef-suet1 #f oz42 pounded sugar1 #c-a_/b oz42 lemon1 #a large2 currants1 #f oz42 eggs1 #d large1 or #e small3 #a hour1 brisk oven4 ,,bakewell ,,pudding4 ,this pudding is famous not only in ,derbyshire1 but in several of our northern counties1 where it is usually served on all holiday-occasions4 ,line a shallow tart-dish with quite an inch-deep layer of several kinds of good preserve mixed together1 and intermingle with them from two to three ounces of candied citron or orange-rind4 ,beat well the yolks of ten eggs1 and add to them gradually half a pound of sifted sugar2 when they are well mixed1 pour in by degrees half a pound of good clarified butter1 and a little ratifia or any other flavour that may be preferred2 fill the dish two-thirds full with this mixture1 and bake the pudding for nearly an hour in a moderate oven4 ,half the quantity will be sufficient for a small dish4 ,mixed preserves1 #a-a_/b to #b lbs42 yolks of eggs1 #aj2 sugar1 #a_/b lb42 butter1 #a_/b lb42 ratifia1 lemon-brandy1 or other flavouring1 to the taste3 baked1 moderate oven1 #c_/d to #a hour4 ,obs4--,this is a rich and expensive1 but not very refined pudding4 ,a variation of it1 known in the south as an ,alderman's ,pudding1 is we think1 superior to it4 ,it is made without the candied peel1 and with a layer of apricot-jam only1 six ounces of butter1 six of sugar1 the yolks of six1 and the whites of two eggs4 ,,ratifia ,,pudding4 ,flavour a pint and a half of new milk rather highly with bitter almonds1 blanched and bruised1 or1 should their use be objected to1 with three or four bay leaves and a little cinnamon2 add a few grains of salt1 and from four to six ounces of sugar in lumps1 according to the taste4 ,when the whole has simmered gently for some minutes1 strain off the milk through a fine sieve or muslin1 put it into a clean saucepan1 and when it again boils stir it gradually and quickly to six well-beaten eggs which have been likewise strained2 let the mixture cool1 and then add to it a glass of brandy4 ,lay a half-paste round a well-buttered dish1 and sprinkle into it an ounce of ratifias finely crumbled1 grate the rind of a lemon over1 and place three ounces of whole ratifias upon them1 pour in sufficient of the custard to soak them2 an hour afterwards add the remainder1 and send the pudding to a gentle oven3 half an hour will bake it4 ,new milk1 #a-a_/b pint2 bitter almonds1 #f or #g 7or bay leaves1 #c to #e1 and bit of cinnamon72 sugar1 #d to #f oz42 eggs1 #f2 brandy1 #a wineglassful2 ratifias1 #d oz42 rind #a_/b lemon3 baked #a_/b hour4 ,,the ,,elegant ,,economist',s ,,pudding4 ,we have already given a receipt for an exceedingly good boiled pudding bearing this title1 but we think the baked one answers even better1 and it is made with rather more facility4 ,butter a deep tart-dish well1 cut the slices of plum-pudding to join exactly in lining it1 and press them against it lightly to make them adhere1 as without this precaution they are apt to float off2 pour in as much custard 7previously thickened and left to become cold71 or any other sweet pudding mixture1 as will fill the dish almost to the brim2 cover the top with thin slices of the plum pudding1 and bake it in a slow oven from thirty minutes to a full hour1 according to the quantity and quality of the contents4 ,one pint of new milk poured boiling on an ounce and a half of tous-les-mois1 smoothly mixed with a quarter of a pint of cold milk1 makes with the addition of four ounces of sugar1 four small eggs1 a little lemon-grate1 and two or three bitter almonds1 or a few drops of ratifia1 an excellent pudding of this kind2 it should be baked nearly three-quarters of an hour in a quite slow oven4 ,two ounces and a half of arrow-root may be used in lieu of the tous-les-mois4 ,,rich ,,bread ,,and ,,butter ,,pudding4 ,give a good flavour of lemon-rind and bitter almonds1 or of cinnamon1 if preferred1 to a pint of new milk1 and when it has simmered a sufficient time for this1 strain and mix it with a quarter of a pint of rich cream2 sweeten it with four ounces of sugar in lumps1 and stir it while still hot to five well-beaten eggs2 throw in a few grains of salt1 and move the mixture briskly with a spoon as a glass of brandy is added to it4 ,have ready in a thickly-buttered dish three layers of thin bread and butter cut from a half-quartern loaf1 with four ounces of currants1 and one and a half of finely shred candied peel1 strewed between and over them2 pour the eggs and milk on them by degrees1 letting the bread absorb one portion before another is added3 it should soak for a couple of hours before the pudding is taken to the oven1 which should be a moderate one4 ,half an hour will bake it4 ,it is very good when made with new milk only2 and some persons use no more than a pint of liquid in all1 but part of the whites of the eggs may then be omitted4 ,cream may be substituted for the entire quantity of milk at pleasure4 ,new milk1 #a pint2 rind of small lemon1 and #f bitter almonds bruised 7or #a_/b drachm of cinnamon73 simmered #aj to #bj minutes4 ,cream1 #a_/d pint2 sugar1 #d oz42 eggs1 #f2 brandy1 #a wineglassful4 ,bread and butter1 #c layers2 currants1 #d oz42 candied orange or lemon-rind1 #a-a_/b oz43 to stand #b hours1 and to be baked #cj minutes in a moderate oven4 ,,common ,,bread ,,and ,,butter ,,pudding4 ,sweeten a pint and a half of milk with four ounces of ,lisbon sugar2 stir it to four large well-beaten eggs1 or to five small ones1 grate half a nutmeg to them1 and pour the mixture into a dish which holds nearly three pints1 and which is filled almost to the brim with layers of bread and butter1 between which three ounces of currants have been strewed4 ,lemon-grate1 or orange-flower water can be added to this pudding instead of nutmeg1 when preferred4 ,from three quarters of an hour to an hour will bake it4 ,milk1 #a-a_/b pint2 ,lisbon sugar1 #d oz42 eggs1 #d large1 or #e small2 #a_/b small nutmeg2 currants1 #c oz43 baked #c_/d to #a hour4 ,a ,,good ,,baked ,,bread ,,pudding4 ,pour1 quite boiling1 on six ounces 7or three quarters of a pint7 of fine bread-crumbs and one ounce of butter1 a pint of new milk1 cover them closely1 and let them stand until the bread is well soaked2 then stir to them three ounces of sugar1 five eggs1 leaving out two of the whites1 two ounces of candied orange-rind1 sliced thin1 and a flavouring of nutmeg2 when the mixture is nearly or quite cold pour it into a dish1 and place lightly over the top the whites of three eggs beaten to a firm froth1 and mixed at the instant with three large tablespoonsful of sifted sugar4 ,bake the pudding for half an hour in a moderate oven4 ,the icing may be omitted1 and an ounce and a half of butter1 just warmed1 put into the dish before the pudding1 and plenty of sugar sifted over it just as it is sent to the oven1 or it may be made without either4 ,bread1 #f oz42 butter1 #a oz42 milk1 #a pint2 sugar1 #c oz42 eggs1 #e yolks1 #c whites2 candied orange-rind1 #b oz42 little nutmeg4 ,icing1 #c whites of eggs2 sugar1 #c tablespoonsful3 baked1 #a_/b hour4 ,,another ,,baked ,,bread ,,pudding4 ,add to a pint of new milk a quarter of a pint of good cream1 and pour them boiling on eight ounces of bread-crumbs1 and three of fresh butter2 when these have stood half an hour covered with a plate1 stir to them four ounces of sugar1 six ounces of currants1 one and a half of candied orange or citron1 and five eggs4 ,a ,,good ,,semoulina1 ,,or ,,soujee ,,pudding4 ,drop lightly into a pint and a half of boiling milk two large tablespoonsful of semoulina1 and stir them together as this is done1 that the mixture may not be lumpy2 continue the stirring from eight to ten minutes1 then throw in two ounces of good butter1 and three and a half of pounded sugar1 or of the finest ,lisbon2 next add the grated rind of a lemon1 and1 while the semoulina is still warm1 beat gradually and briskly to it five well-whisked eggs2 pour it into a buttered dish1 and bake it about half an hour in a moderate oven4 ,boil the soujee exactly as the semoulina4 ,new milk1 #a-a_/b pint2 semoulina1 #b-a_/b oz43 #g to #h minutes4 ,sugar1 #c-a_/b oz42 butter1 #b oz42 rind of lemon2 eggs1 #e3 baked in moderate oven1 #a_/b hour4 ,or1 soujee1 #d oz42 other ingredients as above4 ,,french ,,semoulina ,,pudding4 ,or ,gteau de ,semoule4 ,infuse by the side of the fire in a quart of new milk1 the very thin rind of a fine fresh lemon1 and when it has stood for half an hour bring it slowly to a boil3 simmer it for four or five minutes1 then take out the lemon rind1 and throw lightly into the milk1 stirring it all the time1 five ounces of the best quality of semoulina2#adi let it boil over a gentle fire for ten minutes1 then add four ounces of sugar roughly powdered1 three of fresh butter1 and less than a small quarter-teaspoonful of salt2 boil the mixture for two or three additional minutes1 keeping it stirred without ceasing2 take it from the fire1 let it cool a little1 and stir to it briskly1 and by degrees1 the yolks of six eggs and the whites of four well beaten together1 and strained or prepared for use as directed at page #cie1 four or five bitter almonds1 pounded with a little sugar1 will heighten the flavour pleasantly to many tastes4 ,when the pudding is nearly cold1 pour it gently into a stewpan or mould1 prepared as for the ,gteau de ,riz of page #dcc1 and bake it in a very gentle oven from an hour and a quarter to an hour and a half4 ,footnote #adi3 ,as we have had occasion to state in the previous pages of this volume1 we have had semoulina1 vermicelli1 and various kinds of macaroni of first-rate quality1 from ,mr4 ,cobbett1 #ah1 ,pall ,mall2 but they may1 without doubt1 be procured equally good from many other foreign warehouses4 ,,saxe-,,gotha ,,pudding1 ,,or ,,tourte4 ,blanch and pound to the smoothest possible paste1 a couple of ounces of ,jordan almonds1 and four or five bitter ones2 add to them1 spoonful by spoonful quite at first1 four eggs which have been whisked very light2 throw in gradually two ounces of pounded sugar1 and then four ounces of the finest bread-crumbs4 ,just melt1 but without heating1 two ounces of fresh butter1 and add it in very small portions to the other ingredients1 beating each well to them until it ceases to appear on the surface4 ,pour the paste thus prepared upon a pint of red currants1 ready mixed in a tart-dish with four ounces of pounded sugar1 and bake them gently for about half an hour4 ,raspberries and currants mixed1 and ,kentish or morella cherries1 will make most excellent varieties of this dish3 the ,kentish cherries should be stoned for it1 the morellas left entire4 ,should the paste be considered too rich1 a part or the whole of the butter can be omitted2 or again1 it may on occasion be made without the almonds2 but the reader is recommended to try the receipt in the first instance without any variation from it4 ,the crust will be found delicious if well made4 ,like all mixtures of the kind it must be kept light by constant beating1 as the various ingredients are added to the eggs1 which should themselves be whisked to a very light froth before they are used4 ,jordan almonds1 #b oz42 bitter almonds1 #d or #e2 eggs1 #d2 pounded sugar1 #b oz42 bread-crumbs1 #d oz42 fresh butter1 #b oz4 ,red currants1 7or other fruit7 #a pint2 sugar1 #d oz43 #a_/b hour4 ,,baden-,,baden ,,puddings4 ,prepare the same paste as for the preceding receipt1 and add to it by degrees a couple of tablespoonsfuls of fine raspberry1 strawberry1 or apricot jam1 which has previously been worked smooth with the back of a spoon2 half fill some buttered pattypans or small cups with the mixture and bake the puddings in a gentle oven from fifteen to twenty minutes1 or rather longer should it be very slow4 ,for variety1 omit the preserve1 and flavour the puddings with the lightly grated rind of a fresh lemon1 and with an ounce or so of candied peel shred small2 or with a little vanilla pounded with a lump or two of sugar1 and sifted through a hair sieve2 or with from three to four drachms of orange flowers pralines reduced to powder2 or serve them quite plain with a fruit sauce4 ,,sutherland ,,or ,,castle ,,puddings4 ,take an equal weight of eggs in the shell1 of good butter1 of fine dry flour1 and of sifted sugar4 ,first1 whisk the eggs for ten minutes or until they appear extremely light1 then throw in the sugar by degrees1 and continue the whisking for four or five minutes2 next1 strew in the flour1 also gradually1 and when it appears smoothly blended with the other ingredients1 pour the butter to them in small portions1 each of which should be beaten in until there is no appearance of it left4 ,it should previously be just liquefied with the least possible degree of heat3 this may be effected by putting it into a well-warmed saucepan1 and shaking it round until it is dissolved4 ,a grain or two of salt should be thrown in with the flour2 and the rind of half a fine lemon rasped on sugar or grated1 or some pounded mace1 or any other flavour can be added at choice4 ,pour the mixture directly it is ready into well-buttered cups1 and bake the puddings from twenty to twenty-five minutes4 ,when cold they resemble good pound cakes1 and may be served as such4 ,wine sauce should be sent to table with them4 ,eggs1 #d2 their weight in flour1 sugar1 and butter2 little salt2 flavouring of pounded mace or lemon-rind4 ,obs4--,three eggs are sufficient for a small dish of these puddings4 ,they may be varied with an ounce or two of candied citron2 or with a spoonful of brandy1 or a little orange-flower water4 ,the mode we have given of making them will be found perfectly successful if our directions be followed with exactness4 ,in a slow oven they will not be too much baked in half an hour4 ,,madeleine ,,puddings4 ,to be served cold4 ,take the same ingredients as for the ,sutherland puddings1 but clarify an additional ounce of butter2 skim1 and then fill some round tin pattypans with it almost to the brim2 pour it from one to the other until all have received a sufficient coating to prevent the puddings from adhering to them1 and leave half a teaspoonful in each2 mix the remainder with the eggs1 sugar1 and flour1 beat the whole up very lightly1 fill the pans about two-thirds full1 and put them directly into a rather brisk oven1 but draw them towards the mouth of it when they are sufficiently coloured2 from fifteen to eighteen minutes will bake them4 ,turn them out1 and drain them on a sheet of paper4 ,when they are quite cold1 with the point of the knife take out a portion of the tops1 hollow the puddings a little1 and fill them with rich apricot-jam1 well mixed with half its weight of pounded almonds1 of which two in every ounce should be bitter ones4 ,a ,,good ,,french ,,rice ,,pudding1 ,,or ,g,,teau ,,de ,,riz4 ,swell gently in a quart of new milk1 or in equal parts of milk and cream1 seven ounces of the best ,carolina rice1 which has been cleared of the discoloured grains1 and washed and drained2 when it is tolerably tender1 add to it three ounces of fresh butter1 and five of sugar roughly powdered1 a few grains of salt1 and the lightly grated rind of a fine lemon1 and simmer the whole until the rice is swollen to the utmost2 then take it from the fire1 let it cool a little1 and stir to it quickly1 and by degrees1 the well-beaten yolks of six full-sized eggs4 ,pour into a small copper stewpan#aej a couple of ounces of clarified butter1 and incline it in such a manner that it may receive an equal coating in every part2 then turn it upside down for an instant1 to drain off the superfluous butter2 next1 throw in some exceedingly fine light crumbs of stale bread1 and shake them entirely over it1 turn out those which do not adhere1 and with a small brush or feather sprinkle more clarified butter slightly on those which line the pan4 ,whisk quickly the whites of the eggs to snow1 stir them gently to the rice1 and pour the mixture softly into the stewpan1 that the bread-crumbs may not be displaced2 put it immediately into a moderate oven1 and let it remain in a full hour4 ,it will then1 if properly baked1 turn out from the mould or pan well browned1 quite firm1 and having the appearance of a cake2 but a fierce heat will cause it to break1 and present an altogether unsightly appearance4 ,in a very slow oven a longer time must be allowed for it4 ,footnote #aej3 ,one which holds about five pints is well adapted to the purpose4 ,when this is not at hand1 a copper cake-mould may be substituted for it4 ,the stewpan must not be covered while the gteau is baking4 ,new milk1 or milk and cream1 #a quart2 ,carolina rice1 #g oz43 #c_/d hour4 ,fresh butter1 #c oz42 sugar1 in lumps1 #e oz42 rind1 #a large lemon3 #c_/d to #a-a_/d4 ,eggs1 #f3 baked in a moderate oven1 #a hour4 ,obs4--,an excellent variety of this gteau is made with cocoa-nut flavoured milk1 or cream 7see ,chapter ,,xxiii471 or with either of these poured boiling on six ounces of ,jordan almonds1 finely pounded1 and mixed with a dozen bitter ones1 then wrung from them with strong pressure2 it may likewise be flavoured with vanilla1 or with candied orange-blossoms1 and covered at the instant it is dished1 with strawberry1 apple1 or any other clear jelly4 ,a ,,common ,,rice ,,pudding4 ,throw six ounces of rice into plenty of cold water1 and boil it gently from eight to ten minutes2 drain it well in a sieve or strainer1 and put it into a clean saucepan with a quart of milk2 let it stew until tender1 sweeten it with three ounces of sugar1 stir to it1 gradually1 three large1 or four small eggs1 beaten and strained2 add grated nutmeg1 lemon rind1 or cinnamon to give it flavour1 and bake it one hour in a gentle oven4 ,rice1 #f oz43 in water1 #h to #aj minutes4 ,milk1 #a quart3 #c_/d to #a hour4 ,sugar1 #c oz42 eggs1 #c large1 or #d small2 flavouring of nutmeg lemon-rind1 or cinnamon3 bake #a hour1 gentle oven4 ,,quite ,,cheap ,,rice ,,pudding4 ,boil the rice in water1 as for a currie1 and while it is still warm1 mix with it a pint and a half of milk1 and three fresh or four or five ,french eggs 7at many seasons of the year these last1 which are always cheap1 are very good1 and answer excellently for puddings47 ,sweeten it with pale brown sugar1 grate nutmeg on the top1 and bake it slowly until it is firm in every part4 ,,richer ,,rice ,,pudding4 ,wash very clean four ounces of whole rice1 pour on it a pint and a half of new milk1 and stew it slowly till quite tender2 before it is taken from the fire1 stir in two ounces of good butter1 and three of sugar2 and when it has cooled a little1 add four well-whisked eggs1 and the grated rind of half a lemon4 ,bake the pudding in a gentle oven from thirty to forty minutes4 ,as rice requires long boiling to render it soft in milk1 it may be partially stewed in water1 the quantity of milk diminished to a pint1 and a little thick sweet cream mixed with it1 before the other ingredients are added4 ,rice1 #d oz42 new milk1 #a-a_/b pint2 butter1 #b oz42 sugar1 #c oz42 eggs1 #d2 rind of #a_/b lemon3 #cj to #dj minutes1 slow oven4 ,,rice ,,pudding ,,meringu4 ,swell gently four ounces of ,carolina rice in a pint and a quarter of milk or of thin cream2 let it cool a little1 and stir to it an ounce and a half of butter1 three of pounded sugar1 a grain or two of salt1 the grated rind of a small lemon1 and the yolks of four large1 or of five small eggs4 ,pour the mixture into a well-buttered dish1 and lay lightly and equally over the top the whites of four eggs beaten as for sponge cakes1 and mixed at the instant with from four to five heaped tablespoonsful of sifted sugar4 ,bake the pudding half an hour in a moderate oven1 but do not allow the meringue to be too deeply coloured2 it should be of a clear brown1 and very crisp4 ,serve it directly it is taken from the oven4 ,rice1 #d oz42 milk1 or cream1 #a-a_/d pint2 butter1 #a-a_/b oz42 sugar1 #c oz42 rind1 #a lemon2 yolks of eggs1 #d or #e2 the whites beaten to snow1 and mixed with as many tablespoonsful of sifted sugar3 baked #a_/b hour1 moderate oven4 ,obs4--,a couple of ounces of ,jordan almonds1 with two or three bitter ones1 pounded quite to a paste1 will improve this dish1 whether mixed with the pudding itself1 or with the meringu4 ,a ,,good ,,ground ,,rice ,,pudding4 ,mix very smoothly five ounces of flour of rice 7or of ground rice1 if preferred71 with half a pint of milk1 and pour it into a pint and a half more which is boiling fast2 keep it stirred constantly over a gentle fire from ten to twelve minutes1 and be particularly careful not to let it burn to the pan2 add to it before it is taken from the fire1 a quarter of a pound of good butter1 from five to six ounces of sugar1 roughly powdered1 and a few grains of salt2 turn it into a pan1 and stir it for a few minutes1 to prevent its hardening at the top2 then mix with it1 by degrees but quickly1 the yolks of eight eggs1 and the whites of two1 the grated or rasped rind of a fine lemon1 and a glass of brandy4 ,lay a border of rich paste round a buttered dish1 pour in the pudding1 strain a little clarified butter over the top1 moisten the paste with a brush1 or small bunch of feathers dipped in cold water1 and sift plenty of sugar on it1 but less over the pudding itself4 ,send it to a very gentle oven to be baked for three-quarters of an hour4 ,rice-flour 7or ground rice71 #e oz42 new milk1 #a quart3 #aj to #ab minutes4 ,butter1 #d oz42 sugar1 #e to #f oz42 salt1 #a_/b saltspoonful2 yolks1 #h eggs2 whites1 #b2 rind1 #a large lemon2 brandy1 large wineglassful3 #c_/d hour1 slow oven4 ,obs4--,these proportions are sufficient for a pudding of larger size than those served usually at elegant tables2 they will make two small ones2 or two-thirds of the quantity may be taken for one of moderate size4 ,lemon-brandy or ratifia1 or a portion of each1 may be used to give it flavour1 with good effect2 and it may be enriched1 if this be desired1 by adding to the other ingredients from three to four ounces of ,jordan almonds1 finely pounded1 and by substituting cream for half of the milk4 ,,common ,,ground ,,rice ,,pudding4 ,one pint and a half of milk1 three ounces and a half of rice1 three of ,lisbon sugar1 one and a half of butter1 some nutmeg1 or lemon-grate1 and four eggs1 baked slowly for half an hour1 or more1 if not quite firm4 ,,green ,,gooseberry ,,pudding4 ,boil together1 from ten to twelve minutes1 a pound of green gooseberries1 five ounces of sugar1 and rather more than a quarter of a pint of water3 then beat the fruit to a mash1 and stir to it an ounce and a half of fresh butter2 when nearly1 or quite cold1 add two ounces and a half of very fine bread-crumbs1 and four well whisked eggs4 ,bake the pudding gently from half to three-quarters of an hour4 ,to make a finer one of the kind1 work the fruit through a sieve1 mix it with four or five crushed ,naples biscuits1 and use double the quantity of butter4 ,green gooseberries1 #a lb42 sugar1 #e oz42 water1 full #a_/d pint3 #aj to #ab minutes4 ,bread-crumbs1 #b-a_/b oz42 eggs1 #d3 #a_/b to #c_/d hour4 ,,potato ,,pudding4 ,with a pound and a quarter of fine mealy potatoes1 boiled very dry1 and mashed perfectly smooth while hot1 mix three ounces of butter1 five or six of sugar1 five eggs1 a few grains of salt1 and the grated rind of a small lemon4 ,pour the mixture into a well-buttered dish1 and bake it in a moderate oven for nearly three-quarters of an hour4 ,it should be turned out and sent to table with fine sugar sifted over it2 or for variety1 red currant jelly1 or any other preserve1 may be spread on it as soon as it is dished4 ,potatoes1 #a-a_/d lb42 butter1 #c oz42 sugar1 #e or #f oz42 eggs1 #e or #f2 lemon-rind1 #a2 salt1 few grains3 #dj to #de minutes4 ,obs4--,when cold1 this pudding eats like cake1 and may be served as such1 omitting1 of course1 the sugar or preserve when it is dished4 ,a ,,richer ,,potato ,,pudding4 ,beat well together fourteen ounces of mashed potatoes1 four ounces of butter1 four of fine sugar1 five eggs1 the grated rind of a small lemon1 and a slight pinch of salt2 add half a glass of brandy1 and pour the pudding into a thickly-buttered dish or mould1 ornamented with slices of candied orange or2 pour a little clarified butter on the top1 and then sift plenty of white sugar over it4 ,potatoes1 #ad oz42 butter1 #d oz42 sugar1 #d oz42 eggs1 #e2 lemon-rind1 #a2 little salt2 brandy1 #a_/b glassful2 candied peel1 #a-a_/b to #b oz43 #dj minutes4 ,obs4--,the potatoes for these receipts should be lightly and carefully mashed1 but never pounded in a mortar1 as that will convert them into a heavy paste4 ,the better plan is to prepare them by ,captain ,kater's receipt 7,chapter ,,xvii471 when they will fall to powder almost of themselves2 or they may be grated while hot through a wire sieve4 ,from a quarter to a half pint of cream is1 by many cooks1 added always to potato puddings4 ,a ,,good ,,sponge ,,cake ,,pudding4 ,slice into a well-buttered tart-dish three penny sponge biscuits1 and place on them a couple of ounces of candied orange or lemon rind cut in strips4 ,whisk thoroughly six eggs1 and stir to them boiling a pint and a quarter of new milk1 in which three ounces of sugar have been dissolved2 grate in the rind of a small lemon1 and when they are somewhat cooled1 add half a wineglassful of brandy1 while still just warm1 pour the mixture to the cakes1 and let it remain an hour2 then strain an ounce and a half of clarified butter over the top1 or strew pounded sugar rather thickly on it1 and bake the pudding three quarters of an hour or longer in a gentle oven4 ,sponge cakes1 #c2 candied peel1 #b oz42 eggs1 #f2 new milk1 #a-a_/d pint2 sugar1 #c oz42 lemon-rind1 #a2 brandy1 #a_/b glass2 butter1 #a oz42 sifted sugar1 #a-a_/b oz43 #c_/d hour4 ,,cake ,,and ,,custard1 ,,and ,,various ,,other ,,inexpensive ,,puddings4 ,even when very dry1 the remains of a sponge or a ,savoy cake will serve excellently for a pudding1 if lightly broken up1 or crumbled1 and intermixed or not1 with a few ratifias or macaroons1 which should also be broken up4 ,a custard composed of four eggs to the pint of milk if small1 and three if very large and fresh1 and not very highly sweetened1 should be poured over the cake half an hour at least before it is placed in the oven 7which should be slow72 and any flavour given to it which may be liked4 ,an economical and clever cook will seldom be at a loss for compounding an inexpensive and good pudding in this way4 ,more or less of the cake can be used as may be convenient4 ,part of a mould of sweet rice or the remains of a dish of ,aroc ,doc 7see ,chapter ,,xxiii471 and various other preparations may be turned to account in a similar manner2 but the custard should be perfectly and equally mingled with whatever other ingredients are used4 ,macaroni boiled tender in milk1 or in milk and water1 will make an excellent pudding2 and sago stewed very thick1 will supply another2 the custard may be mixed with this last while it is still just warm4 ,two ounces well washed1 and slowly heated in a pint of liquid1 will be tender in from fifteen to twenty minutes4 ,all these puddings will require a gentle oven1 and will be ready to serve when they are firm in the centre1 and do not stick to a knife when plunged into it4 ,,baked ,,apple ,,pudding1 ,,or ,,custard4 ,weigh a pound of good boiling apples after they are pared and cored1 and stew them to a perfectly smooth marmalade1 with six ounces of sugar1 and a spoonful or two of wine2 stir them often that they may not stick to the pan4 ,mix with them while they are still quite hot1 three ounces of butter1 the grated rind and the strained juice of a lemon1 and lastly1 stir in by degrees the well-beaten yolks of five eggs1 and a dessertspoonful of flour1 or in lieu of the last1 three or four ,naples' biscuits1 or macaroons crushed small4 ,bake the pudding for a full half hour in a moderate oven1 or longer should it be not quite firm in the middle4 ,a little clarified butter poured on the top1 with sugar sifted over1 improves all baked puddings4 ,apples #a lb42 sugar1 #f oz42 wine #a glassful2 butter1 #c oz42 juice and rind1 #a lemon2 #e eggs3 #a_/b hour1 or more4 ,obs4--,many cooks press the apples through a sieve after they are boiled1 but this is not needful when they are of a good kind1 and stewed1 and beaten smooth4 ,,dutch ,,custard1 ,,or ,,baked ,,raspberry ,,pudding4 ,lay into a tart-dish a border of puff-paste1 and a pint and a half of freshly-gathered raspberries1 well mixed with three ounces of sugar4 ,whisk thoroughly six large eggs with three ounces more of sugar1 and pour it over the fruit3 bake the pudding from twenty-five to thirty minutes in a moderate oven4 ,break the eggs one at a time into a cup1 and with the point of a small three-pronged fork take off the specks or germs1 before they are beaten1 as we have directed in page #dbd4 ,raspberries1 #a-a_/b pint2 sugar1 #f oz42 eggs1 #f3 #be to #cj minutes4 ,,gabrielle',s ,,pudding1 ,,or ,,sweet ,,casserole ,,of ,,rice4 ,wash half a pound of the best ,carolina rice1 drain it on a hair-sieve1 put it into a very clean stewpan or saucepan1 and pour on it a quart of cold new milk4 ,stir them well together1 and place them near the fire that the rice may swell very gradually2 then let it simmer as gently as possible for about half an hour1 or until it begins to be quite tender2 mix with it then1 two ounces of fresh butter and two and a half of pounded sugar1 and let it continue to simmer softly until it is dry and sufficiently tender1#aea to be easily crushed to a smooth paste with a strong wooden spoon4 ,work it to this point1 and then let it cool4 ,before it is taken from the fire1 scrape into it the outside of some sugar which has been rubbed upon the rind of a fresh lemon4 ,have ready a tin mould of pretty form1 well buttered in every part2 press the rice into it while it is still warm1 smooth the surface1 and let it remain until cold4 ,should the mould be one which opens at the ends1 like that shown in the plate at page #cdd1 the pudding will come out easily2 but if it should be in a plain common one1 just dip it into hot water to loosen it2 turn out the rice1 and then again reverse it on to a tin or dish1 and with the point of a knife mark round the top a rim of about an inch wide2 then brush some clarified butter over the whole pudding1 and set it into a brisk oven4 ,when it is of an equal light golden brown draw it out1 raise the cover carefully where it is marked1 scoop out the rice from the inside1 leaving only a crust of about an inch thick in every part1 and pour into it some preserved fruit warmed in its own syrup1 or fill it with a compte of plums or peaches 7see ,chapter ,,xxiii472 or with some good apples boiled with fine sugar to a smooth rich marmalade4 ,this is a very good as well as an elegant dish3 it may be enriched with more butter1 and by substituting cream for the milk in part or entirely but it is excellent without either4 ,footnote #aea3 ,unless the rice be boiled slowly1 and very dry1 it will not answer for the casserole4 ,rice1 #a_/b lb42 new milk1 #a quart3 #a_/b hour4 ,fresh butter1 #b oz42 pounded sugar1 #b-a_/b oz42 rasped rind1 #a lemon3 #a_/b hour or more4 ,obs4--,the precise time of baking the pudding cannot well be specified3 it only requires colour4 ,,vermicelli ,,pudding ,,with ,,apples ,,or ,,without1 ,,and ,,puddings ,,of ,,soujee ,,and ,,semola4 ,drop gradually into an exact quart of boiling milk four ounces of very fresh vermicelli1 crushing it slightly with one hand and letting it fall gently from the fingers1 and stirring the milk with a spoon held in the other hand1 to prevent the vermicelli from gathering into lumps4 ,boil it softly until it is quite tender and very thick1 which it will be usually in about twenty minutes1 during which time it must be very frequently stirred2 then work in two ounces of fresh butter and four of pounded sugar2 turn the mixture into a bowl or pan1 and stir it occasionally until it has cooled down4 ,whisk five good eggs until they are very light1 beat them gradually and quickly to the other ingredients1 add the finely grated rind of a lemon or a little lemon-brandy or ratifia1 and pour the pudding when nearly cold into a buttered dish1 and just cover the surface with apples pared1 cored1 and quartered2 press them into the pudding-mixture1 to the top of which they will immediately rise again1 and place the dish in a very gentle oven for three-quarters of an hour1 or longer if needed to render the fruit quite tender4 ,the apples should be of the best quality for cooking4 ,this is an exceedingly nice pudding if well made and well baked4 ,the butter can be omitted to simplify it4 ,milk1 #a quart2 vermicelli1 #d oz43 boiled about #bj minutes4 ,butter #b oz42 7when used7 pounded sugar1 #a_/d lb42 eggs1 #e3 baked slowly #c_/d hour or more4 ,for a plain common vermicelli pudding omit the apples and one egg3 for a very good one use six eggs1 and the butter2 and flavour it delicately with orange-flower water1 vanilla1 or aught else that may be preferred4 ,we have often had an ounce or two of candied citron sliced very thin mingled with it4 ,puddings of soujee and semola are made in precisely the same manner1 with four ounces to the quart of milk1 and ten minutes boiling4 ,,rice ,,la ,,vathek1 ,,or ,,rice ,,pudding ,,la ,,vathek4 7,extremely ,good47 ,illustration ,blanch1 and then pound carefully to the smoothest possible paste four ounces of fine ,jordan almonds and half a dozen bitter ones1 moistening them with a few drops of water to prevent their oiling4 ,stir to them by slow degrees a quart of boiling milk1 which should be new1 wring it again closely from them through a thin cloth1 which will absorb it less than a tammy1 and set it aside to cool4 ,wash thoroughly1 and afterwards soak for about ten minutes seven ounces of ,carolina rice1 drain it well from the water1 pour the almond-milk upon it1 bring it very slowly to boil1 and simmer it softly until it is tolerably tender1 taking the precaution to stir it often at first that it may not gather into lumps nor stick to the pan4 ,add to it two ounces of fresh butter and four of pounded sugar1 and when it is perfectly tender and dry1 proceed with it exactly as for ,gabrielle's pudding1 but in moulding the rice press it closely and evenly in1 and hollow it in the centre1 leaving the edge an inch thick in every part1 that it may not break in the oven4 ,the top must be slightly brushed with butter before it is baked1 to prevent its becoming too dry1 but a morsel of white blotting paper will take up any portion that may remain in it4 ,when it is ready to serve1 pour into it a large jarful of apricot jam1 and send it immediately to table4 ,if well made it will be delicious4 ,it may be served cold 7though this is less usual71 and decorated with small thin leaves of citron-rind1 cut with a minute paste-cutter4 ,the same preparation may be used also for ,gabrielle's pudding1 and filled with hot preserved fruit1 the rice scooped from the inside being mixed with the syrup4 ,,good ,,yorkshire ,,pudding4 ,to make a very good and light ,yorkshire pudding1 take an equal number of eggs and of heaped tablespoonsful of flour1 with a teaspoonful of salt to six of these4 ,whisk the eggs well1 strain1 and mix them gradually with the flour1 then pour in by degrees as much new milk as will reduce the batter to the consistence of rather thin cream4 ,the tin which is to receive the pudding must have been placed for some time previously under a joint that has been put down to roast one of beef is usually preferred4 ,beat the batter briskly and lightly the instant before it is poured into the pan1 watch it carefully that it may not burn1 and let the edges have an equal share of the fire4 ,when the pudding is quite firm in every part1 and well-coloured on the surface1 turn it to brown the under side4 ,this is best accomplished by first dividing it into quarters4 ,in ,yorkshire it is made much thinner than in the south1 roasted generally at an enormous fire1 and not turned at all3 currants there are sometimes added to it4 ,eggs1 #f2 flour1 #f heaped tablespoonsful1 or from #g to #h oz42 milk1 nearly or quite #a pint2 salt1 #a teaspoonful3 #b hours4 ,obs4--,this pudding should be quite an inch thick when it is browned on both sides1 but only half the depth when roasted in the ,yorkshire mode4 ,the cook must exercise her discretion a little in mixing the batter1 as from the variation of weight in flour1 and in the size of eggs1 a little more or less of milk may be required3 the whole should be rather more liquid than for a boiled pudding4 ,,common ,,yorkshire ,,pudding4 ,half a pound of flour1 three eggs 7we would recommend a fourth71 rather more than a pint of milk1 and a teaspoonful of salt4 ,,normandy ,,pudding4 7,,good47 ,boil1 until very soft and dry1 eight ounces of rice in a pint and a half1 or rather more1 of water1#aeb stir to it two ounces of fresh butter and three of sugar1 and simmer it for a few minutes after they are added2 then pour it out1 and let it cool for use4 ,strip from the stalks as many red currants1 or ,kentish cherries1 as will fill a tart-dish of moderate size1 and for each pint of the fruit allow from three to four ounces of sugar4 ,line the bottom and sides of a deep dish with part of the rice2 next1 put in a thick layer of fruit and sugar2 then one of rice and one of fruit alternately until the dish is full4 ,sufficient of the rice should be reserved to form a rather thick layer at the top3 smooth this equally with a knife1 sift sugar thickly on it1 or brush it with good cream1 and send the pudding to a moderate oven for half an hour1 or longer1 should it be large4 ,morella cherries1 with a little additional sugar1 make an excellent pudding of this kind4 ,footnote #aeb3 ,a quart of milk can be substituted for this2 but with the fruit1 water perhaps answers better4 ,,common ,,baked ,,raisin ,,pudding4 ,beat well together three-quarters of a pound of flour1 the same quantity of raisins1 six ounces of beef-suet1 finely chopped1 a small pinch of salt1 some grated nutmeg1 and three eggs which have been thoroughly whisked1 and mixed with about a quarter of a pint of milk1 or less than this1 should the eggs be large4 ,pour the whole into a buttered dish1 and bake it an hour and a quarter4 ,for a large pudding1 increase the quantities one half4 ,flour and stoned raisins1 each #c_/d lb42 suet1 #f oz42 salt1 small pinch2 nutmeg1 #a_/b teaspoonful2 eggs1 #c2 milk1 #a_/d pint3 #a-a_/d hour4 ,a ,,richer ,,baked ,,raisin ,,pudding4 ,mix and whisk well1 and lightly together1 a pound of raisins weighed after they are stoned1 ten ounces of finely minced beef-suet1 three-quarters of a pound of flour1 a little salt1 half a small nutmeg1 or the grated rind of a lemon1 four large eggs1 and as much milk as may be needed to make the whole into a very thick batter3 bake the pudding a few minutes longer than the preceding one4 ,the addition of sugar will be found no improvement as it will render it much less light4 ,sultana raisins are well adapted to these puddings1 as they contain no pips1 and from their delicate size sooner become tender in the baking than the larger kinds4 ,,the ,,poor ,,author',s ,,pudding4 ,flavour a quart of new milk by boiling in it for a few minutes half a stick of well-bruised cinnamon1 or the thin rind of a small lemon2 add a few grains of salt1 and three ounces of sugar1 and turn the whole into a deep basin3 when it is quite cold1 stir to it three well-beaten eggs1 and strain the mixture into a pie-dish4 ,cover the top entirely with slices of bread free from crust1 and half an inch thick1 cut so as to join neatly1 and buttered on both sides3 bake the pudding in a moderate oven for about half an hour1 or in a ,dutch oven before the fire4 ,new milk1 #a quart2 cinnamon1 or lemon-rind2 sugar1 #c oz42 little salt2 eggs1 #c2 buttered bread3 baked #a_/b hour4 ,,pudding ,,la ,,paysanne4 7,cheap and ,good47 ,fill a deep tart-dish with alternate layers of well-sugared fruit1 and very thin slices of the crumb of a light stale loaf2 let the upper layer be of fruit1 and should it be of a dry kind1 sprinkle over it about a dessertspoonful of water1 or a little lemon-juice3 raspberries1 currants1 and cherries1 will not require this4 ,send the pudding to a somewhat brisk oven to be baked for about half an hour4 ,the proportion of sugar used must be regulated1 of course1 by the acidity of the fruit4 ,for a quart of ripe greengages1 split and stoned1 five ounces will be sufficient4 ,,the ,,curate',s ,,pudding4 ,this is but a variation of the pudding la ,paysanne which precedes it1 but as it is both good and inexpensive it may be acceptable to some of our readers4 ,wash1 wipe1 and pare some quickly grown rhubarb-stalks1 cut them into short lengths1 and put a layer of them into a deep dish with a spoonful or two of ,lisbon sugar2 cover these evenly with part of a penny roll sliced thin2 add another thick layer of fruit and sugar1 then one of bread1 then another of the rhubarb1 cover this last with a deep layer of fine bread-crumbs well mingled with about a tablespoonful of sugar1 pour a little clarified butter over them1 and send the pudding to a brisk oven4 ,from thirty to forty minutes will bake it4 ,good boiling apples sliced1 sweetened1 and flavoured with nutmeg or grated lemon-rind1 and covered with well buttered slices of bread1 make an excellent pudding of this kind1 and so do black currants likewise1 without the butter4 ,a ,,light ,,baked ,,batter ,,pudding4 ,with three heaped tablespoonsful or about six ounces of flour mix a small saltspoonful of salt1 and add very gradually to it three fresh eggs which have been cleared in the usual way or strained1 and whisked to a light froth4 ,beat up the batter well1 then stir to it by degrees a pint of new milk1 pour it into a buttered dish1 set it immediately into a rather brisk oven1 and bake it three-quarters of an hour4 ,if properly managed1 it will be extremely light and delicate1 and the surface will be crisp4 ,when good milk cannot be had for it1 another egg1 or the yolk of one at least1 should be added4 ,send preserved or stewed fruit to table with it4 ,the same mixture may be baked in buttered cups from twenty to thirty minutes1 turned out1 and served with sugar sifted thickly over4 ,in some counties an ounce or two of very finely minced suet is usually mixed with baked batter puddings1 which are enriched1 but not improved1 we think1 by the addition2 but that is entirely a matter of taste4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,chapter ,,xxii4 ,eggs and ,milk4 ,illustration ,,to ,,preserve ,,eggs ,,fresh ,,for ,,many ,,weeks4 ,,as soon as possible after the eggs are taken from the nests1 brush each one separately with a thin solution of gum ,arabic1 being careful to leave no portion of the shell uncovered by it4 ,the half of each egg must first be done and left to become dry1 before the remainder is touched1 that the gum may not be rubbed off any part by its coming in contact1 while wet1 with the hand as it is held to be varnished1 or with the table when it is laid down to harden4 ,obs4--,eggs will remain fit for use a very long time if carefully kept2 but attention should always be given to the cleanliness of the shells before they are stored1 as when these are soiled1 and then excluded from the air1 they will sometimes become very offensive4 ,those which are collected immediately after the harvest are the best both for eating and for putting up in store3 they should be collected in dry weather when they are required to be kept4#aec ,footnote #aec3 ,for a sea-store1 an old and experienced cook from on board a man-of-war1 directs eggs to be rubbed with salt butter1 and packed in layers with plenty of bran between them4 ,he says that the salt penetrates the shell1 and tends to preserve the eggs1 which will require no additional salt when eaten4 ,we give the information to the reader as we received4 ,,to ,,cook ,,eggs ,,in ,,the ,,shell ,,without ,,boiling ,,them4 7,an admirable receipt47 ,this mode of dressing eggs is not new2 it seems1 indeed1 to have been known in years long past1 but not to have received the attention which its excellence deserved4 ,we saw it mentioned with much commendation in a most useful little periodical1 called the ,cottage ,gardener1 and had it tested immediately with various modifications and with entire success4 ,after many trials1 we give the following as the best and most uniform in its results of our numerous experiments4 ,first1 put some boiling water into a large basin--a slop-basin for example--and let it remain for a few seconds1 then turn it out1 lay in the egg 7or eggs71 and roll it over1 to take the chill off the shell1 that it may not crack from the sudden application of heat2 and pour in--and upon the egg--quite boiling water from a kettle1 until it is completely immersed2 put a plate over it instantly1 and let it remain1 upon the table1 for twelve minutes1 when it will be found perfectly and beautifully cooked1 entirely free from all flavour and appearance of rawness1 and yet so lightly and delicately dressed as to suit even persons who cannot take eggs at all when boiled in the usual way4 ,it should be turned when something more than half done1 but the plate should be replaced as quickly as possible4 ,two eggs will require scarcely more time than one2 but some additional minutes must be allowed for any number beyond that4 ,the process may always be quickened by changing the water when it has cooled a little1 for more that is fast boiling3 the eggs may1 in fact1 be rendered quite hard by the same means1 but then no advantage is obtained over the old method of cooking them4 #ab minutes4 ,obs4--,this is one of the receipts which we have re-produced here from our cookery for invalids1 on account of its adaptation to the taste generally4 ,,to ,,boil ,,eggs ,,in ,,the ,,shell4 ,even this very simple process demands a certain degree of care1 for if the eggs be brought from a cold larder1 and suddenly plunged into boiling water they will frequently break immediately1 and a large portion will often escape from the shells4 ,in winter they should be held for an instant over the steam from the saucepan before they are laid in1 and they should be put gently into it4 ,three minutes will boil them sufficiently for persons who like the whites in a partially liquid state4 ,five minutes1 exact time1 if they be fresh and fine1 will harden the whites only1 and leave the yolks still liquid4 ,few eaters require them more dressed than this2 but eight or ten minutes will render them hard4 ,eggs should always be cooked in sufficient water to cover them completely4 ,to boil very lightly1 #c minutes2 to render the whites firm1 #d-a_/b to #e minutes2 hard eggs1 #h to #aj minutes 7#ae minutes for salad dressing47 ,,to ,,dress ,,the ,,eggs ,,of ,,the ,,guinea ,,fowl ,,and ,,bantam4 ,illustration ,the eggs of the ,guinea-fowl--which are small1 very prettily shaped1 and of a pale or full fawn-colour 7for in this they vary7--are much esteemed by epicures1 being very rich and excellent eating4 ,they are generally somewhat higher in price than the common hens' eggs1 even in ,norfolk1 ,suffolk1 and other counties where they most abound2 and in ,london they are usually expensive4 ,they may be cooked in the shell without boiling by the method we have already given3 eight or nine minutes will cook them so4 ,about three and a half of gentle boiling will render the whites firm1 and ten will harden them quite through4 ,they are often served instead of plovers' eggs1 and are sent to table embedded in moss in the same manner4 ,they may also be shelled1 and used whole to decorate a salad4 ,the eggs of the bantam1 which are scarcely more than half the size of these1 and of which the shells are much thinner1 will require less time to cook4 ,they form an elegant decoration for a salad1 if boiled hard1 which they will become in five or six minutes2 and for a mince of fowl1 or veal and oysters1 when poached4 ,two minutes' poaching in an enamelled saucepan#aed will be sufficient for these delicate little eggs1 without positive boiling4 ,they should be carefully broken and put gently into water at boiling point1 but which has ceased to move1 and left undisturbed by the side of the fire until the yolks are just set on the surface4 ,footnote #aed3 ,in any other kind1 an additional half minute may be required4 ,guinea-fowls' eggs1 quite hard1 #aj minutes4 ,for eating 7by new method1 #h to #i minutes71 #c to #d minutes4 ,bantams'1 hard1 #f minutes2 soft1 #b-a_/b to #c minutes4 ,,to ,,dress ,,turkeys' ,,eggs4 ,turkeys' eggs are not1 we believe1 brought very abundantly into the ,london market1#aee but their superiority to those of the common fowl is well known in the counties where the birds are principally reared4 ,though of large size they are delicate in flavour1 and are equally valuable for the breakfast-table--cooked simply in the shell--or for compounding any of the dishes for which hens' eggs are commonly in request4 ,they make super-excellent sauce1 omlets1 custards1 and puddings2 and are especially to be recommended poached1 or served by any other of the following receipts4 ,those of the smallest size and palest colour1 which are the eggs of the young birds1 are the best adapted for serving boiled in the shells3 they are sometimes almost white4 ,those of the full grown turkeys are thickly speckled1 of a deep tawny hue or fawn colour4 ,footnote #aee3 ,constant supplies of them are brought from ,france to the towns upon the coast2 and from the thickness of their shells they remain eatable much longer than the common eggs2 they are also reasonable in price4 #f minutes will render the whites firm2 #d minutes will poach them4 ,,forced ,,turkeys' ,,eggs 7,,or ,,swans'74 7,an ,excellent ,entremets47 ,boil gently for twenty minutes in plenty of water1 that they may be entirely covered with it1 five or six fresh turkeys' eggs1 and when they are done lift them into a large pan of water to cool4 ,by changing the water once or twice they will become cold more rapidly1 and they must not be used until they are perfectly so4 ,roll them in a cloth1 pressing lightly on them to break the shells2 clear them off1 and halve the eggs evenly lengthwise4 ,take out the yolks with care1 and pound them to a smooth paste in a mortar with an ounce and a half1 or two ounces at the utmost1 of pure-flavoured butter to the half dozen1 a small half-teaspoonful of salt1 a little finely grated nutmeg1 and some cayenne1 also in fine powder3 a little mace1--one of the most delicate of all seasonings when judiciously used--may be added with good effect4 ,blend these ingredients thoroughly1 and then add to them by degrees one raw hen's egg slightly whisked1 and the yolk of a second1 or a dessertspoonful or two of sweet rich cream4 ,one common egg is sufficient for four of the turkey egg-yolks4 ,beat up the mass1 which will now be of the consistence of a thick batter1 well and lightly1 and proceed to fill the whites with it1 having first cut a small slice from each half to make it stand evenly on the dish1 and hollowed the inside with the point of a sharp knife1 so as to render it of equal thickness throughout4 ,fill them full and high2 smooth the yolks gently with the blade of a knife1 arrange the eggs on a dish1 and place them in a gentle oven for a quarter of an hour4 ,serve them directly they are taken from it4 ,the eggs thus dressed will afford an admirable dish for the second course1 either quite simply served1 or with good gravy highly flavoured with fresh mushrooms1 poured under them4 ,the same ingredients may be pressed into very small buttered cups and baked for fifteen minutes1 then turned on to a dish and sauced with a little ,espagnole1 or other rich brown gravy1 or served without4 ,obs4--,we would recommend that the whites of swans' eggs1 which as we have said are extremely beautiful1 should be filled with the above preparation in preference to their own yolks3 they will of course1 require longer baking4 ,,to ,,boil ,a ,,swan',s ,,egg ,,hard4 ,swans' eggs are much more delicate than from their size1 and from the tendency of the birds to feed on fish might be supposed2 and when boiled hard and shelled1 their appearance is beautiful1 the white being of remarkable purity and transparency4 ,take as much water as will cover the egg 7or eggs7 well in every part1 let it boil quickly1 then take it from the fire1 and as soon as the water ceases to move put in the egg1 and leave it by the side of the fire--without allowing it to boil--for twenty minutes1 and turn it gently once or twice in the time2 then put on the cover of the stewpan and boil it gently for a quarter of an hour2 take it quite from the fire1 and in five minutes put it into a basin and throw a cloth1 once or twice folded1 over it1 and let it cool slowly4 ,it will retain the heat for a very long time1 and as it should be quite cold before it is cut1 it should be boiled early if wanted to serve the same day4 ,halve it evenly with a sharp knife lengthwise1 take out the yolk with care1 and prepare it for table1 either by the receipt which follows1 or by that for forced eggs1 ,chapter ,,vi4 ,,swan',s ,,egg1 ,,en ,,salade4 ,we found that the yolk of the egg1 when boiled as above1 could be rendered perfectly smooth and cream-like1 by mashing it on a dish#aef with a broad-bladed knife1 and working it well with the other ingredients3 the whole was easily blended into a mass of uniform colour1 in which not the smallest lump of butter or egg was perceptible4 ,mix it intimately with an ounce or two of firm fresh butter1 a rather high seasoning of cayenne1 some salt1 or a teaspoonful or two of essence of anchovies1 and about as much of chili vinegar or lemon-juice4 ,to these minced herbs or eschalots can be added at pleasure4 ,fill the whites with the mixture1 and serve them in a bowl two-thirds filled with salad1 sauced as usual2 or use them merely as a decoration for a lobster or ,german salad4 ,footnote #aef3 ,we chanced1 when we received our first present of swan's eggs1 to be in a house where there was no mortar--a common deficiency in ,english culinary departments4 ,,to ,,poach ,,eggs4 ,take for this purpose a wide and delicately clean pan about half-filled with the clearest spring-water2 throw in a small saltspoonful of salt1 and place it over a fire quite free from smoke4 ,break some new laid eggs into separate cups1 and do this with care1 that the yolks may not be injured4 ,when the water boils1 draw back the pan1 glide the eggs gently into it1 and let them stand until the whites appear almost set1 which will be in about a minute3 then1 without shaking them1 move the pan over the fire1 and just simmer them from two minutes and a half to three minutes4 ,lift them out separately with a slice1 trim quickly off the ragged edges1 and serve them upon dressed spinach1 or upon minced veal1 turkey1 or chicken2 or dish them for an invalid1 upon delicately toasted bread1 sliced thick1 and freed from crust3 it is an improvement to have the bread buttered1 but it is then less wholesome4 ,comparative time of poaching eggs4 ,swans' eggs1 #e to #f minutes1 7in basin1 #aj minutes47 ,turkeys' eggs #d minutes4 ,hens' eggs1 #c to #c-a_/b minutes4 ,guinea-fowls'1 #b to #c minutes4 ,bantams'1 #b minutes4 ,obs4--,all eggs may be poached without boiling if kept just at simmering point1 but one boil quite at last will assist to detach them from the stewpan1 from which they should always be very carefully lifted on what is called a fish or egg-slice4 ,there are pans made on purpose for poaching and frying them in good form2 but they do not1 we believe1 answer particularly well4 ,if broken into cups slightly rubbed with butter1 and simmered in them1 their roundness of shape will be best preserved4 ,,poached ,,eggs ,,with ,,gravy4 7,,entremets47 ufs ,pochs au ,jus4 ,dress the eggs as above1 giving them as good an appearance as possible1 lay them into a very hot dish1 and sauce them with some rich1 clear1 boiling veal gravy1 or with some ,espagnole4 ,each egg1 for variety1 may be dished upon a crouton of bread cut with a fluted paste-cutter1 and fried a pale brown3 the sauce should then be poured round1 not over them4 ,poaching is the best mode of dressing a swan's egg1#aeg as it renders it more than any other delicate in flavour2 it is usually served on a bed of spinach4 ,only the eggs of quite young swans are suited to the table3 one is sufficient for a dish4 ,it may be laid on a large crouton of fried bread1 and sauced with highly flavoured gravy1 or with tomata-sauce well seasoned with eschalots4 ,footnote #aeg3 ,we fear that want of space must compel us to omit some other receipts for swans' eggs1 which we had prepared for this chapter4 ,,ufs ,,au ,,plat4 ,a pewter or any other metal plate or dish which will bear the fire1 must be used for these4 ,just melt a slice of butter in it1 then put in some very fresh eggs broken as for poaching2 strew a little pepper and salt on the top of each1 and place them over a gentle fire until the whites are quite set1 but keep them free from colour4 ,this is a very common mode of preparing eggs on the continent2 but there is generally a slight rawness of the surface of the yolks which is in a measure removed by ladling the boiling butter over them with a spoon as they are cooking1 though a salamander held above them for a minute would have a better effect4 ,four or five minutes will dress them4 ,obs4--,we hope for an opportunity of inserting further receipts for dishes of eggs at the end of this volume4 ,,milk ,,and ,,cream4 ,without possessing a dairy1 it is quite possible for families to have always a sufficient provision of milk and cream for their consumption1 provided there be a clean cool larder or pantry where it can be kept4 ,it should be taken from persons who can be depended on for supplying it pure1 and if it can be obtained from a dairy near at hand it will be an advantage1 as in the summer it is less easy to preserve it sweet when it has been conveyed from a distance4 ,it should be poured at once into well-scalded pans or basins kept exclusively for it1 and placed on a very clean and airy shelf1 apart from all the other contents of the larder4 ,the fresh milk as it comes in should be set at one end of the shelf1 and that for use should be taken from the other1 so that none may become stale from being misplaced or overlooked4 ,the cream should be removed with a perforated skimmer 7or skimming-dish as it is called in dairy-counties7 which has been dipped into cold water to prevent the cream1 when thick1 from adhering to it4 ,twelve hours in summer1 and twenty-four in winter1 will be sufficient time for the milk to stand for 8creaming10 though it may often be kept longer with advantage4 ,between two and three pints of really good milk will produce about a quarter of a pint of cream4 ,in frosty weather the pans for it should be warmed before it is poured in4 ,if boiled when first brought in1 it will remain sweet much longer than it otherwise would2 but it will then be unfit to serve with tea2 though it may be heated afresh and sent to table with coffee2 and used also for puddings1 and all other varieties of milk-diet4 ,,devonshire1 ,,or ,,clotted ,,cream4 ,from the mode adopted in ,devonshire1 and in some other counties1 of scalding the milk in the following manner1 the cream becomes very rich and thick1 and is easily converted into excellent butter4 ,it is strained into large shallow metal pans as soon as it is brought into the dairy and left for twelve hours at least in summer1 and thirty-six in cold weather4 ,it is then gently carried to a hot plate--heated by a fire from below--and brought slowly to a quite scalding heat but without being allowed to boil or even to simmer4 ,when it is ready to be removed1 distinct rings appear on the surface1 and small bubbles of air4 ,it must then be carried carefully back to the dairy1 and may be skimmed in twelve hours afterwards4 ,the cream should be well drained from the milk--which will be very poor--as this is done4 ,it may then be converted into excellent butter1 merely by beating it with the hand in a shallow wooden tub1 which is1 we are informed1 the usual manner of making it in small ,devonshire dairies4 ,,du ,,lait ,a ,,madame4 ,boil a quart of new milk1 and let it cool sufficiently to allow the cream to be taken off2 then rinse an earthen jar well in every part with buttermilk1 and while the boiled milk is still rather warm1 pour it in and add the cream gently on the top4 ,let it remain twenty-four hours1 turn it into a deep dish1 mix it with pounded sugar1 and it will be ready to serve4 ,this preparation is much eaten abroad during the summer1 and is considered very wholesome4 ,the milk1 by the foregoing process1 becomes a very soft curd1 slightly1 but not at all unpleasantly1 acid in flavour4 ,a cover1 or thick folded cloth1 should be placed on the jar after the milk is poured in1 and it should be kept in a moderately warm place4 ,in very sultry weather less time may be allowed for the milk to stand4 ,obs4--,we give this and the following receipt from an unpublished work which we have in progress1 being always desirous to make such information as we possess generally useful as far as we can4 ,,curds ,,and ,,whey4 ,rennet is generally prepared for dairy-use by butchers1 and kept in farmhouses hung in the chimney corners1 where it will remain good a long time4 ,it is the inner stomach of the calf1 from which the curd is removed1 and which is salted and stretched out to dry on splinters of wood1 or strong wooden skewers4 ,it should be preserved from dust and smoke 7by a paper-bag or other means71 and portions of it cut off as wanted4 ,soak a small bit in half a teacupful of warm water1 and let it remain in it for an hour or two2 then pour into a quart of warm new milk a dessertspoonful of the rennet-liquor1 and keep it in a warm place until the whey appears separated from the curd1 and looks clear4 ,the smaller the proportion of rennet used1 the more soft and delicate will be the curd4 ,we write these directions from recollection1 having often had the dish thus prepared1 but having no memorandum at this moment of the precise proportions used4 ,less than an inch square of the rennet would be sufficient1 we think1 for a gallon of milk1 if some hours were allowed for it to turn4 ,when rennet-whey1 which is a most valuable beverage in many cases of illness1 is required for an invalid to drink1 a bit of the rennet1 after being quickly and slightly rinsed1 may be stirred at once into the warm milk1 as the curd becoming hard is then of no consequence4 ,it must be kept warm until the whey appears and is clear4 ,it may then be strained1 and given to the patient to drink1 or allowed to become cold before it is taken4 ,in feverish complaints it has often the most benign effect4 ,devonshire junket is merely a dish or bowl of sweetened curds and whey1 covered with the thick cream of scalded milk1 for which see page #dea4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,chapter ,,xxiii4 ,sweet ,dishes1 or ,entremets4 ,illustration3 ,jelly of two colours1 with macedoire of fruit4 ,,to ,,prepare ,,calf',s ,,feet ,,stock4 ,illustration3 ,white and ,rose-coloured ,jelly4 ,,the feet are usually sent in from the butcher's ready to be dressed1 but as they are sold at a very much cheaper rate when the hair has not been cleared from them1 and as they may then be depended on for supplying the utmost amount of nutriment which they contain1 it is often desirable to have them altogether prepared by the cook4 ,in former editions of this work we directed that they should be 8dipped into cold water1 and sprinkled with resin in fine powder2 then covered with boiling water and left for a minute or two untouched before they were scraped20 and this method we had followed with entire success for a long time1 but we afterwards discovered that the resin was not necessary1 and that the feet could be quite as well prepared by mere scalding1 or being laid into water at the point of boiling1 and kept in it for a few minutes by the side of the fire4 ,the hair1 as we have already stated in the first pages of ,chapter ,,ix4 7,veal71 must be very closely scraped from them with a blunt-edged knife2 and the hoofs must be removed by being struck sharply down against the edge of a strong table or sink1 the leg-bone being held tightly in the hand4 ,the feet must be afterwards washed delicately clean before they are further used4 ,when this has been done1 divide them at the joint1 split the claws1 and take away the fat that is between them4 ,should the feet be large1 put a gallon of cold water to the four1 but from a pint to a quart less if they be of moderate size or small4 ,boil them gently down until the flesh has parted entirely from the bones1 and the liquor is reduced nearly or quite half2 strain1 and let it stand until cold2 remove every particle of fat from the top before it is used1 and be careful not to take the sediment4 ,calf's feet 7large71 #d2 water1 #a gallon3 #f to #g hours4 ,,to ,,clarify ,,calf',s ,,feet ,,stock4 ,break up a quart of the stock1 put it into a clean stewpan with the whites of five large or of six small eggs1 two ounces of sugar1 and the strained juice of a small lemon2 place it over a gentle fire1 and do not stir it after the scum begins to form2 when it has boiled five or six minutes1 if the liquid part be clear1 turn it into a jelly-bag1 and pass it through a second time should it not be perfectly transparent the first4 ,to consumptive patients1 and others requiring restoratives1 but forbidden to take stimulants1 the jelly thus prepared is often very acceptable1 and may be taken with impunity1 when it would be highly injurious made with wine4 ,more white of egg is required to clarify it than when sugar and acid are used in larger quantities1 as both of these assist the process4 ,for blanc-mange omit the lemon-juice1 and mix with the clarified stock an equal proportion of cream 7for an invalid1 new milk71 with the usual flavouring1 and weight of sugar2 or pour the boiling stock very gradually to some finely pounded almonds1 and express it from them as directed for ,quince ,blamange1 allowing from six to eight ounces to the pint4 ,stock1 #a quart2 whites of eggs1 #e2 sugar1 #b oz42 juice1 #a small lemon3 #e to #h minutes4 ,,to ,,clarify ,,isinglass4 ,the finely-cut purified isinglass1 which is now in general use1 requires no clarifying except for clear jellies3 for all other dishes it is sufficient to dissolve1 skim1 and pass it through a muslin strainer4 ,when two ounces are required for a dish1 put two and a half into a delicately clean pan1 and pour on it a pint of spring water which has been gradually mixed with a teaspoonful of beaten white of egg2 stir these thoroughly together1 and let them heat slowly by the side of a gentle fire1 but do not allow the isinglass to stick to the pan4 ,when the scum is well risen1 which it will be after two or three minutes' simmering1 clear it off1 and continue the skimming until no more appears2 then1 should the quantity of liquid be more than is needed1 reduce it by quick boiling to the proper point1 strain it through a thin muslin1 and set it by for use3 it will be perfectly transparent1 and may be mixed lukewarm with the clear and ready sweetened juice of various fruits1 or used with the necessary proportion of syrup1 for jellies flavoured with choice liqueurs4 ,as the clarifying reduces the strength of the isinglass--or rather as a portion of it is taken up by the white of egg--an additional quarter to each ounce must be allowed for this3 if the scum be laid to drain on the back of a fine sieve which has been wetted with hot water1 a little very strong jelly will drip from it4 ,isinglass1 #b-a_/b oz42 water1 #a pint2 beaten white of egg1 #a teaspoonful4 ,obs4--,at many ,italian warehouses a preparation is now sold under the name of isinglass1 which appears to us to be highly purified gelatine of some other kind4 ,it is converted without trouble into a very transparent jelly1 is free from flavour1 and is less expensive than the genuine ,russian isinglass2 but when taken for any length of time as a restorative1 its different nature becomes perceptible4 ,it answers well for the table occasionally2 but it is not suited to invalids4 ,,spinach ,,green1 ,,for ,,colouring ,,sweet ,,dishes1 ,,confectionary1 ,,or ,,soups4 ,pound quite to a pulp1 in a marble or ,wedgwood mortar1 a handful or two of young freshly-gathered spinach1 then throw it into a hair sieve1 and press through all the juice which can be obtained from it2 pour this into a clean white jar1 and place it in a pan of water that is at the point of boiling1 and which must be allowed only to just simmer afterwards2 in three or four minutes the juice will be poached or set3 take it then gently with a spoon1 and lay it upon the back of a fine sieve to drain4 ,if wanted for immediate use1 merely mix it in the mortar with some finely-powdered sugar2#aeh but if to be kept as a store1 pound it with as much as will render the whole tolerably dry1 boil it to candy-height over a very clear fire1 pour it out in cakes1 and keep them in a tin box or canister4 ,for this last preparation consult the receipt for orange-flower candy4 ,footnote #aeh3 ,for soup1 dilute it first with a little of the boiling stock1 and stir it to the remainder4 ,,prepared ,,apple ,,or ,,quince ,,juice4 ,pour into a clean earthen pan two quarts of spring water1 and throw into it as quickly as they can be pared1 quartered1 and weighed1 four pounds of nonsuches1 pearmains1 ,ripstone pippins1 or any other good boiling apples of fine flavour4 ,when all are done1 stew them gently until they are well broken1 but not reduced quite to pulp2 turn them into a jelly-bag1 or strain the juice from them without pressure through a closely-woven cloth1 which should be gathered over the fruit1 and tied1 and suspended above a deep pan until the juice ceases to drop from it3 this1 if not very clear1 must be rendered so before it is used for syrup or jelly1 but for all other purposes once straining it will be sufficient4 ,quinces are prepared in the same way1 and with the same proportions of fruit and water1 but they must not be too long boiled1 or the juice will become red4 ,we have found it answer well to have them simmered until they are perfectly tender1 and then to leave them with their liquor in a bowl until the following day1 when the juice will be rich and clear4 ,they should be thrown into the water very quickly after they are pared and weighed1 as the air will soon discolour them4 ,the juice will form a jelly much more easily if the cores and pips be left in the fruit4 ,water1 #b quarts2 apples or quinces1 #d lbs4 ,,cocoa-,,nut ,,flavoured ,,milk4 7,for sweet dishes1 c47 ,pare the dark outer rind from a very fresh nut1 and grate it on a fine and exceedingly clean grater1 to every three ounces pour a quart of new milk1 and simmer them very softly for three quarters of an hour1 or more1 that a full flavour of the nut may be imparted to the milk without its being much reduced3 strain it through a fine sieve1 or cloth1 with sufficient pressure to leave the nut almost dry3 it may then be used for blanc-mange1 custards1 rice1 and other puddings1 light cakes and bread4 ,to each quart new milk1 #c oz4 grated cocoa-nut3 #c_/d to #a hour4 ,obs4--,the milk of the nut when perfectly sweet and good1 may be added to the other with advantage4 ,to obtain it1 bore one end of the shell with a gimlet1 and catch the liquid in a cup2 and to extricate the kernel1 break the shell with a hammer2 this is better than sawing it asunder4 ,,comp,,tes ,,of ,,fruit4 7,or ,fruit stewed in ,syrup47 ,we would especially recommend these delicate and very agreeable preparations for trial to such of our readers as may be unacquainted with them1 as well as to those who may have a distaste to the common 8stewed fruit0 of ,english cookery4 ,if well made they are peculiarly delicious and refreshing1 preserving the pure flavour of the fruit of which they are composed2 while its acidity is much softened by the small quantity of water added to form the syrup in which it is boiled4 ,they are also more economical than tarts or puddings1 and infinitely more wholesome4 ,in the second course pastry-crust can always be served with them1 if desired1 in the form of ready baked leaves1 round cakes1 or any more fanciful shapes2 or a border of these may be fastened with a little white of egg and flour round the edge of the dish in which the compte is served2 but rice1 or macaroni simply boiled1 or a very plain pudding is a more usual accompaniment4 ,comptes will remain good for two or three days in a cool store-room1 or somewhat longer1 if gently boiled up for an instant a second time2 but they contain generally too small a proportion of sugar to preserve them from mould or fermentation for many days4 ,the syrup should be enriched with a larger quantity when they are intended for the desserts of formal dinners1 as it will increase the transparency of the fruit3 the juice is always beautifully clear when the comptes are carefully prepared4 ,they should be served in glass dishes1 or in comptiers1 which are of a form adapted to them4 ,compte of spring fruit4--7,rhubarb74 ,take a pound of the stalks after they are pared1 and cut them into short lengths2 have ready a quarter of a pint of water boiled gently for ten minutes with five ounces of sugar1 or with six should the fruit be very acid2 put it in1 and simmer it for about ten minutes4 ,some kinds will be tender in rather less time1 some will require more4 ,obs4--,good sugar in lumps should be used for these dishes4 ,lisbon sugar will answer for them very well on ordinary occasions1 but that which is refined will render them much more delicate4 ,compte of green currants4--,spring water1 half-pint2 sugar1 five ounces2 boiled together ten minutes4 ,one pint of green currants stripped from the stalks2 simmered five minutes4 ,compte of green gooseberries4--,this is an excellent compte if made with fine sugar1 and very good with any kind4 ,break five ounces into small lumps and pour on them half a pint of water2 boil these gently for ten minutes1 and clear off all the scum2 then add to them a pint of fresh gooseberries freed from the tops and stalks1 washed1 and well drained4 ,simmer them gently from eight to ten minutes1 and serve them hot or cold4 ,increase the quantity for a large dish4 ,compte of green apricots4--,wipe the down from a pound of quite young apricots1 and stew them very gently for nearly twenty minutes in syrup made with eight ounces of sugar and three-quarters of a pint of water1 boiled together the usual time4 ,compte of red currants4--,a quarter of a pint of water and five ounces of sugar3 ten minutes4 ,one pint of currants freed from the stalks to be just simmered in the syrup from five to seven minutes4 ,this receipt will serve equally for raspberries1 or for a compte of the two fruits mixed together4 ,either of them will be found an admirable accompaniment to a pudding of batter1 custard1 bread1 or ground rice1 and also to various other kinds of puddings1 as well as to whole rice plainly boiled4 ,compte of ,kentish or ,flemish cherries4--,simmer five ounces of sugar with half a pint of water for ten minutes2 throw into the syrup a pound of cherries weighed after they are stalked1 and let them stew gently for twenty minutes3 it is a great improvement to stone the fruit1 but a larger quantity will then be required for a dish4 ,compte of ,morella cherries4--,boil together for fifteen minutes1 six ounces of sugar with half a pint of water2 add a pound and a quarter of ripe ,morella cherries1 and simmer them very softly from five to seven minutes3 this is a delicious compte4 ,a larger proportion of sugar will often be required for it1 as the fruit is very acid in some seasons1 and when it is not fully ripe4 ,compte of damsons4--,four ounces of sugar and half a pint of water to be boiled for ten minutes2 one pound of damsons to be added1 and simmered gently from ten to twelve minutes4 ,compte of the green magnum-bonum or ,mogul plum4--,the green ,mogul plums are often brought abundantly into the market when the fruit is thinned from the trees1 and they make admirable tarts or comptes1 possessing the fine slight bitter flavour of the unripe apricot1 to which they are quite equal4 ,measure a pint of the plums without their stalks1 and wash them very clean2 then throw them into a syrup made with seven ounces of sugar in lumps1 and half a pint of water1 boiled together for eight or ten minutes4 ,give the plums one quick boil1 and then let them stew quite softly for about five minutes1 or until they are tender1 which occasionally will be in less time even4 ,take off the scum1 and serve the compte hot or cold4 ,compte of the magnum-bonum1 or other large plums4--,boil six ounces of sugar with half a pint of water the usual time2 take the stalks from a pound of plums1 and simmer them very softly for twenty minutes4 ,increase the proportion of sugar if needed1 and regulate the time as may be necessary for the different varieties of fruit4 ,compte of bullaces4--,the large1 or shepherds' bullace1 is very good stewed1 but will require a considerable portion of sugar to render it palatable1 unless it be quite ripe4 ,make a syrup with half a pound of sugar1 and three-quarters of a pint of water1 and boil in it gently from fifteen to twenty minutes1 a pint and a half of the bullaces freed from their stalks4 ,compte of ,siberian crabs4--,to three-quarters of a pint of water add six ounces of fine sugar1 boil them for ten or twelve minutes1 and skim them well4 ,add a pound and a half of ,siberian crabs without their stalks1 and keep them just at the point of boiling for twenty minutes2 they will then become tender without bursting4 ,a few strips of lemon-rind and a little of the juice are sometimes added to this compte4 ,obs4--,in a dry warm summer1 when fruit ripens freely1 and is rich in quality1 the proportion of sugar directed for these comptes would generally be found sufficient2 but in a cold or wet season it would certainly1 in many instances1 require to be increased4 ,the present slight difference in the cost of sugars1 renders it a poor economy to use the raw for dishes of this class1 instead of that which is well refined4 ,to make a clear syrup it should be broken into lumps1 not crushed to powder4 ,almost every kind of fruit may be converted into a good compte4 ,,comp,,te ,,of ,,peaches4 ,pare half a dozen ripe peaches1 and stew them very softly from eighteen to twenty minutes1 keeping them often turned in a light syrup1 made with five ounces of sugar1 and half a pint of water boiled together for ten minutes4 ,dish the fruit2 reduce the syrup by quick boiling1 pour it over the peaches1 and serve them hot for a second-course dish1 or cold for rice-crust4 ,they should be quite ripe1 and will be found delicious dressed thus4 ,a little lemon-juice may be added to the syrup1 and the blanched kernels of two or three peach or apricot stones4 ,sugar1 #e oz42 water1 #a_/b pint3 #aj minutes4 ,peaches1 #f3 #ah to #bj minutes4 ,obs4--,nectarines1 without being pared1 may be dressed in the same way1 but will require to be stewed somewhat longer1 unless they be quite ripe4 ,,another ,,receipt ,,for ,,stewed ,,peaches4 ,should the fruit be not perfectly ripe1 throw it into boiling water and keep it just simmering1 until the skin can be easily stripped off4 ,have ready half a pound of fine sugar boiled to a light syrup with three-quarters of a pint of water2 throw in the peaches1 let them stew softly until quite tender1 and turn them often that they may be equally done2 after they are dished1 add a little strained lemon-juice to the syrup1 and reduce it by a few minutes' very quick boiling4 ,the fruit is sometimes pared1 divided1 and stoned1 then gently stewed until it is tender4 ,sugar1 #h oz42 water1 #c_/d pint3 #aj to #ab minutes4 ,peaches1 #f or #g2 lemon-juice1 #a large teaspoonful4 ,,comp,,te ,,of ,,barberries ,,for ,,dessert4 ,when this fruit is first ripe it requires1 from its excessive acidity1 nearly its weight of sugar to render it palatable2 but after hanging some time upon the trees it becomes much mellowed in flavour1 and may be sufficiently sweetened with a smaller proportion4 ,according to the state of the fruit then1 take for each pound 7leaving it in bunches7 from twelve to sixteen ounces of sugar1 and boil it with three-quarters of a pint of water until it forms a syrup4 ,throw in the bunches of fruit1 and simmer them for five or six minutes4 ,if their weight of sugar be used1 they will become in that time perfectly transparent4 ,as all vessels of tin affect the colour of the barberries1 they should be boiled in a copper stewpan1 or in a ,german enamelled one1 which would be far better4 ,barberries1 #a lb42 sugar1 #ab to #af oz42 water1 #c_/d pint2 fruit simmered in syrup1 #e to #f minutes4 ,,black ,,caps ,,par ,,excellence4 7,for the ,second-course1 or for ,dessert47 ,cut a dozen fine ,norfolk biffins in two without paring them1 scoop out the cores1 and fill the cavities with thin strips of fresh lemon-rind and with candied orange-peel4 ,cover the bottom of a flat shallow tin with a thick layer of fine pale brown sugar1 press the two halves of each apple together1 and place them closely in the tin2 pour half a bottle of raisin or of any other sweet wine over them1 and be careful to moisten the tops of all2 sift white sugar thickly on them1 and set the tin into a very hot oven at first1 that the outsides of the apples may catch or become black2 then draw them to the mouth of the oven1 and bake them gently until they are soft quite through4 ,the ,norfolk biffin answers for this dish far better than any other kind of apple1 but the winter queening1 and some few firm sorts beside1 can be used for it with fair success4 ,these for variety may be cored without being divided1 and filled with orange marmalade4 ,the black caps served hot1 as a second-course dish1 are excellent4 ,norfolk biffins1 #ab2 rinds fresh lemons1 #a to #b2 candied orange-rind1 #b to #c oz42 pale brown sugar1 #c_/d lb42 raisin or other wine1 #a_/b bottle2 little sifted sugar3 #c_/d to #a hour1 or more4 ,obs4--,the apples dressed as above resemble a rich confection1 and will remain good for ten days or a fortnight2 sometimes much longer even4 ,the receipt is an admirable one4 ,,gateau ,,de ,,pommes4 ,boil together for fifteen minutes a pound of well-refined sugar and half a pint of water2 then add a couple of pounds of nonsuches1 or of any other finely-flavoured apples which can be boiled easily to a smooth pulp1 and the juice of a couple of small1 or of one very large lemon4 ,stew these gently until the mixture is perfectly free from lumps1 then boil it quickly1 keeping it stirred1 without quitting it1 until it forms a very thick and dry marmalade4 ,a few minutes before it is done add the finely grated rinds of a couple of lemons2 when it leaves the bottom of the preserving-pan visible and dry1 press it into moulds of tasteful form2 and either store it for winter use1 or if wanted for table1 serve it plain for rice-crust1 or ornament it with spikes of blanched almonds1 and pour a custard round it for a second-course dish 7entremets74 ,sugar1 #a lb42 water1 #a_/b pint3 #ae minutes4 ,nonsuches or other apples1 #b lbs42 juice1 #a large or #b small lemons3 #b hours or more4 ,,gateau ,,of ,,mixed ,,fruits4 7,,good47 ,extract the juice from some fresh red currants by simmering them very gently for a few minutes over a slow fire3 strain it through a folded muslin1 and to one pound of it add a pound and a half of nonsuches or of freshly gathered codlings1 pared1 and rather deeply cored1 that the fibrous part of the apple may be avoided4 ,boil these quite slowly until the mixture is perfectly smooth1 then1 to evaporate part of the moisture1 let the boiling be quickened4 ,in from twenty-five to thirty minutes draw the pan from the fire1 and throw in gradually a pound and a quarter of sugar in fine powder3 mix it well with the fruit1 and when it is dissolved continue the boiling rapidly for twenty minutes longer1 keeping the mixture constantly stirred2 put it into a mould1 and store it1 when cold1 for winter use1 or serve it for rice-crust1 or for the second course3 in the latter case decorate it with spikes of blanched almonds1 or pistachio-nuts1 and heap solid whipped cream round it1 or pour a custard into the dish4 ,for rice-crust it may be garnished with dice of the palest apple-jelly4 ,juice of red currants1 #a lb42 nonsuches1 or codlings 7pared and cored71 #a-a_/b lb43 #be to #cj minutes4 ,sugar1 #a-a_/b lb43 #bj minutes4 ,obs4--,a portion of raspberries1 if still in season1 may be mixed with the currants for this gteau1 should the flavour be liked4 ,for other and excellent varieties of gteaux of fruit1 see ,newton solid1 and damson solid1 ,chapter ,,xxiv4 ,ripe peaches and nonsuches will likewise do well for it4 ,codlings answer perfectly for the preceding receipt1 and the preparation is of fine colour and very pleasant flavour3 it ought to cut in clear firm slices4 ,other varieties of fruit can be mingled in the same manner4 ,,jellies4 ,,calf',s ,,feet ,,jelly4 7,,entremets47 ,illustration3 ,modern ,jelly ,mould4 ,we hear inexperienced housekeepers frequently complain of the difficulty of rendering this jelly perfectly transparent2 but by mixing with the other ingredients1 while quite cold1 the whites1 and the crushed shells of a sufficient number of eggs1 and allowing the head of scum which gathers on the jelly to remain undisturbed after it once forms1 they will scarcely fail to obtain it clear4 ,it should be strained through a thick flannel1 or beaver-skin1 bag of a conical form 7placed before the fire1 should the weather be at all cold1 or the mixture will jelly before it has run through71 and if not perfectly clear it must be strained1 again and again1 until it becomes so2 though we generally find that once suffices4 ,mix thoroughly in a large stewpan five half-pints of strong calf's feet stock 7see page #dec71 a full pint of sherry1 half a pound of sugar roughly powdered1 the juice of two fine lemons1 the rind of one and a half cut very thin1 the whites and shells of four large eggs1 and half an ounce of isinglass4 ,let these remain a few minutes off the fire1 that the sugar may dissolve more easily2 then let the jelly be brought to boil gradually1 and do not stir it after it begins to heat4 ,when it has boiled gently for sixteen minutes1 draw it from the fire1 and let it stand a short time before it is poured into a jelly-bag1 under which a bowl should be placed to receive it4 ,when clear and cool1 put it into moulds which have been laid for some hours in water3 these should always be of earthenware in preference to metal4 ,if to be served in glasses1 or roughed1 the jelly will be sufficiently firm without the isinglass1 of which1 however1 we recommend a small quantity to be thrown in always when the jelly begins to boil1 as it facilitates the clearing4 ,calf's feet stock1 #b-a_/b pints2 sugar1 #a_/b lb42 sherry1 #a pint2 juice of lemons1 #b large2 rind of #a-a_/b2 whites and shells of eggs1 #d large1 or #e small3 #af minutes4 ,obs4 #a4--;,after the jelly has dropped through the bag1 an exceedingly agreeable beverage may be obtained by pouring in some boiling water2 from one to three half pints1 according to the quantity of jelly which has been made4 ,the same plan should be pursued in making orange or lemon jelly for an invalid4 ,obs4 #b4--;,as it is essential to the transparency of calf's feet jelly of all kinds that the whole of the ingredients should be quite cold when they are mixed1 and as the stock can only be measured in a liquid state1 to which it must be reduced by heating1 the better plan is1 to measure it when it is first strained from the feet1 and to put apart the exact quantity required for a receipt2 but when this has not been done1 and it is necessary to liquefy it1 it must be left until quite cold again before it is used4 ,for the manner of preparing and clarifying it1 see the beginning of this chapter4 ,,another ,,receipt ,,for ,,calf',s ,,feet ,,jelly4 ,to four calf's feet well cleaned and divided1 pour a gallon of water and let them stew until it is reduced to rather less than two quarts2 or if1 after the flesh has quite fallen from the bones1 the liquor on being strained off should exceed that quantity1 reduce it by rapid boiling in a clean uncovered pan over a very clear fire4 ,when it is perfectly firm and cold1 take it clear of fat and sediment1 and add to it a bottle of sherry1 which should be of good quality 7for poor1 thin wines are not well adapted to the purpose71 three-quarters of a pound of sugar broken small1 the juice of five large or of six moderate-sized lemons1 and the whites1 with the shells finely crushed1 of seven eggs1 or of more should they be very small4 ,the rinds of three lemons1 pared exceedingly thin1 may be thrown into the jelly a few minutes before it is taken from the fire2 or they may be put into the jelly-bag previously to its being poured through1 when they will impart to it a slight and delicate flavour1 without deepening its colour much4 ,if it is to be moulded1 something more than half an ounce of isinglass should be dropped lightly in where the liquid becomes visible through the head of scum1 when the mixture begins to boil2 for if not sufficiently firm1 it will break when it is dished4 ,it may be roughed1 or served in glasses without this addition2 and in a liquid state will be found an admirable ingredient for ,oxford1 or other punch4 ,calf's feet1 #d2 water1 #a gallon3 to be reduced more than half4 ,sherry1 #a bottle2 sugar1 #c_/d lb4 7more to taste72 juice of #e large lemons1 or of six moderate-sized2 whites and shells of #g eggs1 or more if small2 rinds of lemons1 #c 7for moulding1 nearly #c_/d oz4 of isinglass73 #ae to #bj minutes4 ,obs4--,an excellent and wholesome jelly for young people may be made with good orange or raisin wine1 instead of sherry2 to either of these the juice of three or four oranges1 with a small portion of the rind1 may be added instead of part of the lemons4 ,,modern ,,varieties ,,of ,,calf',s ,,feet ,,jelly4 ,in modern cookery a number of excellent jellies are made with the stock of calves' feet1 variously flavoured4 ,many of them are compounded entirely without wine1 a small quantity of some fine liqueur being used as a substitute2 and sometimes cinnamon1 or vanilla1 or ,seville orange-rind with a slight portion of acid1 takes place of this4 ,for aristocratic tables1 indeed1 it is the present fashion to serve them very lightly and delicately flavoured4 ,their cost is thus materially diminished4 ,fresh strawberries dropped into clear calf's feet jelly just before it sets1 impart a delicious fragrance to it1 when they are of a choice kind2 and other fruit is mingled with it often2 but none has so good an effect1 though many sorts when tastefully employed give an excellent appearance to it4 ,the ,belgrave mould1 of which the description will be found at page #dgj1 is well adapted for highly ornamental jellies2 and we recommend its adoption for this class of dishes4 ,,apple ,,calf',s ,,feet ,,jelly4 ,pour a quart of prepared apple-juice 7see page #def71 on a pound of fresh apples pared and cored1 and simmer them until they are well broken2 strain the juice1 and let it stand until cold2 then measure1 and put a pint and a half of it into a stewpan with a quart of calf's feet stock 7see page #dec71 nine ounces of sugar broken small1 or roughly pounded1 the juice of two fine lemons1 and the thin rinds of one and a half1 with the whites and shells of eight eggs4 ,let it boil gently for ten minutes1 then strain it through a flannel-bag1 and when cool put it into moulds4 ,it will be very clear1 and firm1 and of pleasant flavour4 ,apples of good quality should be used for it1 and the quantity of sugar must be regulated by the time of year1 as the fruit will have lost much of its acidity during the latter part of the season4 ,this receipt1 which is the result of our own experiment1 and which we have found very successful1 was first tried just after ,christmas1 with pearmains and ,ripstone pippins4 ,a little syrup of preserved ginger1 or a small glass of fine white brandy1 would1 perhaps1 to some tastes1 improve the jelly2 but we give it simply as we have had it proved ourselves4 ,prepared apple juice1 #a quart2 fresh apples1 #a lb43 #a_/b to #c_/d hour4 ,strained juice1 #a-a_/b pint2 calf's feet stock1 #a quart2 sugar1 #i oz42 juice of lemons1 #b2 rind of #a-a_/b2 whites and shells of eggs1 #h3 #aj minutes4 ,obs4--,we would recommend the substitution of quinces for apples in this receipt as likely to afford a very agreeable variety of the jelly3 or equal portions of the two fruits might answer well4 ,unless the stock be very stiff1 add isinglass to this1 as to the calf's feet jelly1 when it is to be moulded4 ,,orange ,,calf',s ,,feet ,,jelly4 7,author's ,receipt47 ,to a pint and a half of firm calf's feet stock1 put a pint of strained ,china-orange juice mixed with that of one or two lemons2 add to these six ounces of sugar1 broken small1 the very thin rinds of three oranges and one lemon1 and the whites of six eggs with half the shells crushed small4 ,stir these gently over a clear fire until the head of scum begins to form1 but not at all afterwards4 ,simmer the jelly for ten minutes from the first full boil2 take it from the fire1 let it stand a little1 then pour it through a jelly-bag until perfectly clear4 ,this is an original1 and entirely new receipt1 which we can recommend to the reader1 the jelly being very pale1 beautifully transparent1 and delicate in flavour3 it would1 we think1 be peculiarly acceptable to such invalids as are forbidden to take wine in any form4 ,the proportions both of sugar and of lemon-juice must be somewhat varied according to the season in which the oranges are used4 ,strong calf's feet stock1 #a-a_/b pint2 strained orange-juice1 mixed with a small portion of lemon-juice1 #a pint2 sugar1 #f oz42 rinds of oranges1 #c2 of lemon1 #a3 #aj minutes4 ,obs4--,a small pinch of isinglass thrown into the jelly when it begins to boil will much assist to clear it4 ,when the flavour of ,seville oranges is liked1 two or three can be used with the sweet ones4 ,,orange ,,isinglass ,,jelly4 ,to render this perfectly transparent the juice of the fruit must be filtered1 and the isinglass clarified2 but it is not usual to take so much trouble for it4 ,strain as clear as possible1 first through a sieve or muslin1 then through a thick cloth or jelly bag1 one quart of ,china orange-juice1 mixed with as much lemon-juice as will give it an agreeable degree of acidity1 or with a small proportion of ,seville orange-juice4 ,dissolve two ounces and a half of isinglass in a pint of water1 skim it well1 throw in half a pound of sugar1 and a few strips of the orange-rind1 pour in the orange-juice1 stir the whole well together1 skim it clean without allowing it to boil1 strain it through a cloth or through a muslin1 many times folded1 and when nearly cold put it into the moulds4#aei ,this jelly is sometimes made without any water1 by dissolving the isinglass and sugar in the juice of the fruit4 ,footnote #aei3 ,in ,france1 orange-jelly is very commonly served in the halved rinds of the fruit1 or in little baskets made as we shall hereafter direct1 page #dff4 ,orange-juice1 #a quart2 water1 #a pint2 isinglass1 #b-a_/b oz42 sugar1 #a_/b lb4 ,,very ,,fine ,,orange ,,jelly4 7,sussex ,place ,receipt47 ,on two ounces and a half of the finest isinglass1 pour a full but an exact pint of spring water2 press down the isinglass and turn it over until the whole is well moistened2 then place it over a gentle fire and let it dissolve gradually2 remove the scum after it has simmered for two or three minutes1 then pour it out1 and set it aside to cool4 ,in another pint of spring water boil a pound of highly refined sugar for five or six minutes2 turn this syrup into a bowl1 and when it is only just warm1 throw into it the very thinly pared rinds of two fine lemons1 of two ,seville oranges1 and of two ,china oranges1 with the juice of five ,china1 and of two ,seville oranges1 and of three lemons4 ,when this mixture is cold1 but not beginning to thicken1 mix it well with the liquid isinglass1 and strain it through a fine lawn sieve1 or through a square of muslin folded in four2 pour it into moulds which have been laid in cold water1 and when wanted for the table1 loosen it from them by wrapping about them1 closely1 a cloth which has been dipped into boiling water1 and by passing a knife round the edges4 ,nothing can be more refined and delicate in flavour than the above2 but the appearance of the jelly may be improved by clarifying the isinglass1 and its colour by boiling the fruit-rinds in the syrup for three or four minutes1 and by leaving them in it until it is strained4 ,the oranges and lemons1 if good1 will yield from two-thirds to three-quarters of a pint of juice1 and the quantity of jelly will be sufficient to fill one large high mould1 or two smaller ones which contain about a pint and a quarter each4 ,when the isinglass is clarified1 allow half an ounce more of it2 take about a teaspoonful of the white of a fresh egg1 beat it a little1 add the pint of cold water to it1 whisk them together for a minute or two1 and then pour them on the isinglass2 stir it occasionally as it is heating1 but not after the head of scum is formed3 boil it gently for two or three minutes1 skim1 and strain it4 ,the oranges and lemons should be dipped into fresh water and wiped dry before they are pared2 and should a muslin strainer 7that is to say1 a large square of common clean muslin7 be used for the jelly1 it should be laid after being washed in the usual manner into plenty of hot water1 and then into cold1 and be well rinsed in1 and wrung from each4 ,,oranges ,,filled ,,with ,,jelly4 ,illustration ,this is one of the fanciful dishes which make a pretty appearance on a supper table1 and are acceptable when much variety is desired4 ,take some very fine ,china oranges1 and with the point of a small knife cut out from the top of each a round about the size of a shilling2 then with the small end of a tea or an egg spoon1 empty them entirely1 taking great care not to break the rinds4 ,throw these into cold water1 and make jelly of the juice1 which must be well pressed from the pulp1 and strained as clear as possible4 ,colour one half a fine rose colour with prepared cochineal1 and leave the other very pale2 when it is nearly cold1 drain and wipe the orange rinds1 and fill them with alternate stripes of the two jellies2 when they are perfectly cold cut them into quarters1 and dispose them tastefully in a dish with a few light branches of myrtle between them4 ,calf's feet or any other variety of jelly1 or different blancmanges1 may be used at choice to fill the rinds2 the colours1 however1 should contrast as much as possible4 ,,to ,,make ,,orange ,,baskets ,,for ,,jelly4 ,the oranges for these should be large4 ,first1 mark the handle of the basket evenly across the stalk end of the fruit with the back of a small knife1 or with a silver one1 and let it be quite half an inch wide2 then trace a line across from one end of the handle to the other exactly in the middle of the orange1 and when the other side is marked in the same way1 cut just through the rind with the point of a penknife1 being careful not to pierce the fruit itself2 next1 with a tea or dessertspoon1 take of the quartered rind on either side of the handle2 pass a penknife under the handle itself2 work the point of a spoon gently between the orange and the basket1 until they are separated in every part2 then take the fruit between the thumb and fingers1 and press it carefully out through one of the spaces on either side of the handle4 ,baskets thus made may be filled with any of the jellies of which the receipts are given here3 but they should be nearly cold before they are poured in2 and they ought also to be very clear4 ,some of the baskets may be filled with ratifias1 and dished alternately with those which contain the jelly4 ,,lemon ,,calf',s ,,feet ,,jelly4 ,break up a quart of strong calf's feet stock1 which should have been measured while in a liquid state2 let it be quite clear of fat and sediment1 for which a small additional quantity should be allowed2 add to it a not very full half-pint of strained lemon-juice1 and ten ounces of sugar1 broken small 7rather more or less according to the state of the fruit71 the rind of one lemon pared as thin as possible1 or of from two to three when a full flavour of it is liked1 and the whites with part of the shells crushed small1 of five large or of six small eggs4 ,proceed as for the preceding jellies1 and when the mixture has boiled five minutes throw in a small pinch of isinglass2 continue the boiling for five or six minutes longer1 draw the pan from the fire1 let it stand to settle2 then turn it into the jelly-bag4 ,we have found it always perfectly clear with once passing through2 but should it not be so1 pour it in a second time4 ,strong calf's feet stock1 #a quart2 strained lemon-juice1 short #a_/b pint2 sugar1 #aj oz4 7more or less according to state of fruit72 rind of from #a to #c large lemons2 whites and part of shells of #e large or #f small eggs3 #e minutes4 ,pinch of isinglass3 #e minutes longer4 ,obs4--,about seven large lemons will produce the half pint of juice4 ,this quantity is for one mould only4 ,the jelly will be found almost colourless unless much of the rinds be used1 and as perfectly transparent as clear spring water3 it is also very agreeable in flavour4 ,for variety1 part of the juice of the fruit might be omitted1 and its place supplied by maraschino1 or any other rich white liqueur of appropriate flavour2 and to render it safer eating1 some syrup of preserved ginger would be an excellent addition4 ,,constantia ,,jelly4 ,infuse in a pint of water for five minutes the rind of half a ,seville orange1 pared extremely thin2 add an ounce of isinglass2 and when this is dissolved throw in four ounces of good sugar in lumps2 stir well1 and simmer the whole for a few minutes1 then mix with it four large wineglassesful of ,constantia1 and strain the jelly through a fine cloth of close texture2 let it settle and cool1 then pour it gently from any sediment there may be1 into a mould which has been laid for an hour or two into water4 ,we had this jelly made in the first instance for an invalid who was forbidden to take acids1 and it proved so agreeable in flavour that we can recommend it for the table4 ,the isinglass1 with an additional quarter of an ounce1 might be clarified1 and the sugar and orange-rind boiled with it afterwards4 ,water1 #a pint2 rind1 #a_/b ,seville orange3 #e minutes4 ,isinglass1 #a oz42 sugar1 #d oz43 #e to #g minutes4 ,constantia1 #d large wineglassesful4 ,,rhubarb ,,isinglass ,,jelly4 7,author's ,original ,receipt4 ,good47 ,a jelly of beautiful tint1 and excellent flavour1 may be made with fresh young rhubarb-stems1 either of the giant or dwarf kind1 if they be of a bright pink colour4 ,wash1 and drain or wipe them2 slice without paring them1 taking them quite free from any coarse or discoloured parts4 ,put two pounds and a half1 and a quart of water into an enamelled stewpan1 which is more suitable to the purpose than any other2 throw in two ounces of sugar in lumps1 and boil the rhubarb very gently for twenty minutes1 or until it is thoroughly stewed1 but not sufficiently so to thicken the juice4 ,strain it through a muslin folded in four2 measure a pint and a half of it2 heat it afresh in a clean pan2 add an ounce and a half of the finest isinglass1 and six ounces or more of the best sugar in large lumps2 stir it often until the isinglass is entirely dissolved1 then let it boil quickly for a few minutes to throw up the scum2 clear this off carefully1 and strain the jelly twice through a muslin strainer1#afj folded as the first2 let it cool1 and mould it as usual4 ,footnote #afj3 ,these muslin strainers should be large1 as it is necessary to fold them in general to a quarter of their original size1 to render them sufficiently thick for clearing juice or jelly4 ,,strawberry ,,isinglass ,,jelly4 ,a great variety of equally elegant and excellent jellies for the table may be made with clarified isinglass1 clear syrup1 and the juice of almost any kind of fresh fruit2 but as the process of making them is nearly the same for all1 we shall limit our receipts to one or two1 which will serve to direct the makers for the rest4 ,boil together quickly for fifteen minutes one pint of water and three-quarters of a pound of very good sugar2 measure a quart of ripe richly-flavoured strawberries without their stalks2 the scarlet answer best1 from the colour which they give3 on these pour the boiling syrup1 and let them stand all night4 ,the next day clarify two ounces and a half of isinglass in a pint of water1 as directed at the beginning of this chapter2 drain the syrup from the strawberries very closely1 add to it two or three tablespoonsful of red currant juice1 and the clear juice of one large or two small lemons2 and when the isinglass is nearly cold mix the whole1 and put it into moulds4 ,the ,french1 who excel in these fruit-jellies1 always mix the separate ingredients when they are almost cold2 and they also place them over ice for an hour or so after they are moulded1 which is a great advantage1 as they then require less isinglass1 and are in consequence much more delicate4 ,when the fruit abounds1 instead of throwing it into the syrup1 bruise lightly from three to four pints1 throw two tablespoonsful of sugar over it1 and let the juice flow from it for an hour or two2 then pour a little water over1 and use the juice without boiling1 which will give a jelly of finer flavour than the other4 ,water1 #a pint2 sugar1 #c_/d lb43 #ae minutes4 ,strawberries1 #a quart2 isinglass1 #b-a_/b oz42 water1 #a pint 7white of egg1 #a to #b teaspoonsful72 juice1 #a large or #b small lemons4 ,,fancy ,,jellies4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #a4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #b4 ,description of ,belgrave ,mould4 ,figure ,no4 #a1 represents the mould in its entireness4 ,no4 #b1 shows the interior of it 7inverted74 ,a is a thin metal plate which when turned downwards forms the bottom of the mould1 and which is perforated in six places to permit the fluted columns ,b to pass through it4 ,there is also a larger aperture in the middle to admit the centre cylinder4 ,the plate is fixed1 and the whole is held in its place by the part which folds over the larger scallop ,d at either end4 ,there is also a cover which fits to the mould1 and which is pressed on it before it is dipped into water1 to prevent its getting into the cylinders4 ,illustration ,transparent jelly is shown to much advantage1 and is particularly brilliant in appearance1 when moulded in shapes resembling that of the engraving here1 which are now very commonly used for the purpose4 ,illustration ,the centre spaces can be filled1 after the jelly is dished1 with very light whipped cream1 coloured and flavoured so as to eat agreeably with it1 and to please the eye as well3 this may be tastefully garnished with preserved1 or with fresh fruit2 but one of more recent invention1 called the ,belgrave mould 7which is to be had of the originators1 ,messrs4 ,temple and ,reynolds1 ,princes ,street1 ,cavendish ,square1 and also at #hj1 ,motcomb ,street1 ,belgrave ,square71 is of superior construction for the purpose1 as it contains a large central cylinder and six smaller ones1 which when withdrawn1 after the jelly--which should be poured round1 but not into them--is set1 leave vacancies which can be filled either with jelly of another colour1 or with fruit of different kinds 7which must be secured in its place with just liquid jelly poured carefully in after it is arranged71 or with blanc-mange1 or any other isinglass-cream4 ,the space occupied by the larger cylinder may be left empty1 or filled1 before the jelly is served1 with white or with pale-tinted whipped cream4 ,water1 only sufficiently warm to detach the jelly from them without heating or melting it1 must be poured into the cylinders to unfix them2 and to loosen the whole so as to unmould it easily1 a cloth wrung out of very hot water must be wound round it1 or the mould must be dipped quickly into some which is nearly or quite boiling4 ,a dish should then be laid on it1 it should be carefully reversed1 and the mould lifted from it gently4 ,it will sometimes require a slight sharp blow to detach it quite4 ,italian jelly is made by half filling a mould of convenient form1 and laying round upon it in a chain1 as soon as it is set1 some blanc-mange made rather firm1 and cut of equal thickness and size1 with a small round cutter2 the mould is then filled with the remainder of the jelly1 which must be nearly cold1 but not beginning to set4 ,branched morella cherries1 drained very dry1 are sometimes dropped into moulds of pale jelly2 and fruits1 either fresh or preserved1 are arranged in them with exceedingly good effect when skilfully managed2 but this is best accomplished by having a mould for the purpose1 with another of smaller size fixed in it by means of slight wires1 which hook on to the edge of the outer one4 ,by pouring water into this it may easily be detached from the jelly2 the fruit is then to be placed in the space left by it1 and the whole filled up with more jelly3 to give the proper effect1 it must be recollected that the dish will be reversed when sent to table4 ,,queen ,,mab',s ,,pudding4 7,an ,elegant ,summer ,dish47 ,throw into a pint of new milk the thin rind of a small lemon1 and six or eight bitter almonds1 blanched and bruised2 or substitute for these half a pod of vanilla cut small1 heat it slowly by the side of the fire1 and keep it at the point of boiling until it is strongly flavoured1 then add a small pinch of salt1 and three-quarters of an ounce of the finest isinglass1 or a full ounce should the weather be extremely warm2 when this is dissolved1 strain the milk through a muslin1 and put it into a clean saucepan1 with from four to five ounces and a half of sugar in lumps1 and half a pint of rich cream2 give the whole one boil1 and then stir it1 briskly and by degrees1 to the well-beaten yolks of six fresh eggs2 next1 thicken the mixture as a custard1 over a gentle fire1 but do not hazard its curdling2 when it is of tolerable consistence1 pour it out1 and continue the stirring until it is half cold1 then mix with it an ounce and a half of candied citron1 cut in small spikes1 and a couple of ounces of dried cherries1 and pour it into a mould rubbed with a drop of oil3 when turned out it will have the appearance of a pudding4 ,from two to three ounces of preserved ginger1 well drained and sliced1 may be substituted for the cherries1 and an ounce of pistachio-nuts1 blanched and split1 for the citron2 these will make an elegant variety of the dish1 and the syrup of the ginger1 poured round as sauce1 will be a further improvement4 ,currants steamed until tender1 and candied orange or lemon-rind1 are often used instead of the cherries1 and the well-sweetened juice of strawberries1 raspberries 7white or red71 apricots1 peaches1 or syrup of pine-apple1 will make an agreeable sauce2 a small quantity of this last will also give a delicious flavour to the pudding itself1 when mixed with the other ingredients4 ,cream may be substituted entirely for the milk1 when its richness is considered desirable4 ,new milk1 #a pint2 rind #a small lemon2 bitter almonds1 #f to #h 7or1 vanilla1 #a_/b pod72 salt1 few grains2 isinglass1 #c_/d oz4 7#a oz4 in sultry weather72 sugar1 #d-a_/b oz42 cream1 #a_/b pint2 yolks1 #f eggs2 dried cherries1 #b oz42 candied citron1 #a-a_/b oz42 7or1 preserved ginger1 #b to #c oz41 and the syrup as sauce1 and #a oz4 of blanched pistachio-nuts2 or #d oz4 currants1 steamed #bj minutes1 and #b oz4 candied orange-rind74 ,for sauce1 sweetened juice of strawberries1 raspberries1 or plums1 or pine apple syrup4 ,obs4--,the currants should be steamed in an earthen cullender1 placed over a saucepan of boiling water1 and covered with the lid4 ,it will be a great improvement to place the pudding over ice for an hour before it is served4 ,,nesselr,,de ,,cream4 ,shell and blanch 7see page #cdb7 twenty-four fine ,spanish chestnuts1 and put them with three-quarters of a pint of water into a small and delicately clean saucepan4 ,when they have simmered from six to eight minutes1 add to them two ounces of fine sugar1 and let them stew very gently until they are perfectly tender2 then drain them from the water1 pound them1 while still warm1 to a smooth paste1 and press them through the back of a fine sieve4 ,while this is being done1 dissolve half an ounce of isinglass in two or three spoonsful of water1 and put to it as much cream as will1 with the small quantity of water used1 make half a pint1 two ounces of sugar1 about the third of a pod of vanilla1 cut small1 and well bruised1 and a strip or two of fresh lemon-rind1 pared extremely thin4 ,give these a minute's boil1 and then keep them quite hot by the side of the fire1 until a strong flavour of the vanilla is obtained4 ,now1 mix gradually with the chestnuts half a pint of rich1 unboiled cream1 strain the other half pint through a fine muslin1 and work the whole well together until it becomes very thick2 then stir to it a couple of ounces of dried cherries1 cut into quarters1 and two of candied citron1 divided into very small dice4 ,press the mixture into a mould which has been rubbed with a particle of the purest salad-oil1 and in a few hours it will be ready for table4 ,the cream should be sufficiently stiff1 when the fruit is added1 to prevent its sinking to the bottom1 and both kinds should be dry when they are used4 ,chestnuts1 large1 #bd2 water1 #c_/d pint2 sugar1 #b oz42 isinglass1 #a_/b oz42 water1 #c to #d tablespoonsful2 cream1 nearly #a_/b pint2 vanilla1 #a_/c of pod2 lemon-rind1 #a_/d of #a large3 infuse #bj minutes or more4 ,unboiled cream1 #a_/b pint2 dried cherries1 #b oz42 candied citron1 #b oz4 ,obs4--,when vanilla cannot easily be obtained1 a little noyau may be substituted for it1 but a full weight of isinglass must then be used4 ,,cr,,me ,,la ,,comtesse1 ,,or ,,the ,,countess',s ,,cream4 ,prepare as above1 boil and pound1 eighteen fine sound chestnuts2 mix with them gradually1 after they have been pressed through a fine sieve1 half a pint of rich sweet cream2 dissolve in half a pint of new milk a half-ounce of isinglass1 then add to them from six to eight bitter almonds1 blanched and bruised1 with two-thirds of the rind of a small lemon1 cut extremely thin1 and two ounces and a half of sugar2 let these simmer gently for five minutes1 and then remain by the side of the fire for awhile4 ,when the milk is strongly flavoured1 strain it through muslin1 press the whole of it through1 and stir it by degrees to the chestnuts and cream2 beat the mixture smooth1 and when it begins to thicken1 put it into a mould rubbed with oil1 or into one which has been dipped in water and shaken nearly free of the moisture4 ,if set into a cool place1 it will be ready for table in six or eight hours4 ,it has a pretty appearance when partially stuck with pistachio-nuts1 blanched1 dried1 and cut in spikes1 their bright green colour rendering them very ornamental to dishes of this kind3 as they are1 however1 much more expensive than almonds1 they can be used more sparingly1 or intermingled with spikes of the firm outer rind of candied citron4 ,chestnuts1 #ah2 water1 full #a_/b pint2 sugar1 #a oz43 #ae to #be minutes1 or more4 ,cream1 #a_/b pint2 new milk1 #a_/b pint2 isinglass1 #a_/b oz42 bitter almonds1 #f to #h2 lemon-rind1 two-thirds of #a2 sugar1 #b-a_/b oz4#afa ,footnote #afa3 ,the proportions both of this and of the preceding cream must be increased for a large mould4 ,obs4--,this is a very delicate kind of sweet dish1 which we can particularly recommend to our readers2 it may be rendered more recherch by a flavouring of maraschino1 but must then have a little addition of isinglass4 ,the preparation1 without this last ingredient1 will be found excellent iced4 ,,an ,,excellent ,,trifle4 ,take equal parts of wine and brandy1 about a wineglassful of each1 or two-thirds of good sherry or ,madeira1 and one of spirit1 and soak in the mixture four sponge-biscuits1 and half a pound of macaroons and ratifias2 cover the bottom of the trifle-dish with part of these1 and pour upon them a full pint of rich boiled custard made with three-quarters of a pint1 or rather more1 of milk and cream taken in equal portions1 and six eggs2 and sweetened1 flavoured and thickened by the receipt of page #dha2 lay the remainder of the soaked cakes upon it1 and pile over the whole1 to the depth of two or three inches1 the whipped syllabub of page #dgf1 previously well drained2 then sweeten and flavour slightly with wine only1 less than half a pint of thin cream 7or of cream and milk mixed72 wash and wipe the whisk1 and whip it to the lightest possible froth3 take it off with a skimmer and heap it gently over the trifle4 ,macaroons and ratifias1 #a_/b lb42 wine and brandy mixed1 #a_/d pint2 rich boiled custard1 #a pint2 whipped syllabub 7see page #dgf72 light froth to cover the whole1 short #a_/b pint of cream and milk mixed2 sugar1 dessertspoonful2 wine1 #a_/b glassful4 ,,swiss ,,cream1 ,,or ,,trifle4 7,very ,good47 ,flavour pleasantly with and cinnamon1 a pint of rich cream1 after having taken from it as much as will mix smoothly to a thin batter four teaspoonsful of the finest flour2 sweeten it with six ounces of well-refined sugar in lumps2 place it over a clear fire in a delicately clean saucepan1 and when it boils stir in the flour1 and simmer it for four or five minutes1 stirring it gently without ceasing2 then pour it out1 and when it is quite cold mix with it by degrees the strained juice of two moderate-sized and very fresh lemons4 ,take a quarter of a pound of macaroons1 cover the bottom of a glass dish with a portion of them1 pour in a part of the cream1 lay the remainder of the macaroons upon it1 add the rest of the cream1 and ornament it with candied citron sliced thin4 ,it should be made the day before it is wanted for table4 ,the requisite flavour may be given to this dish by infusing in the cream the very thin rind of a lemon1 and part of a stick of cinnamon slightly bruised1 and then straining it before the flour is added2 or1 these and the sugar may be boiled together with two or three spoonsful of water1 to a strongly flavoured syrup1 which1 after having been passed through a muslin strainer1 may be stirred into the cream4 ,some cooks boil the cinnamon and the grated rind of a lemon with all the other ingredients1 but the cream has then to be pressed through a sieve after it is made1 a process which it is always desirable to avoid4 ,it may be flavoured with vanilla and maraschino1 or with orange-blossoms at pleasure2 but is excellent made as above4 ,rich cream1 #a pint2 sugar1 #f oz42 rind1 #a lemon2 cinnamon1 #a drachm2 flour1 #d teaspoonsful2 juice1 #b lemons2 macaroons1 #d oz42 candied citron1 #a to #b oz4 ,,tipsy ,,cake1 ,,or ,,brandy ,,trifle4 ,the old-fashioned mode of preparing this dish was to soak a light sponge or ,savoy cake in as much good ,french brandy as it could absorb2 then1 to stick it full of blanched almonds cut into whole-length spikes1 and to pour a rich cold boiled custard round it4 ,it is more usual now to pour white wine over the cake1 or a mixture of wine and brandy2 with this the juice of half a lemon is sometimes mixed4 ,illustration3 ,chantilly ,basket4 ,,filled ,,with ,,whipped ,,cream ,,and ,,fresh ,,strawberries4 ,take a mould of any sort that will serve to form the basket on1 just dip the edge of some macaroons into melted barley sugar1 and fasten them together with it2 take it out of the mould1 keep it in a dry place until wanted1 then fill it high with whipped strawberry cream which has been drained on a sieve from the preceding day1 and stick very fine ripe strawberries over it4 ,it should not filled until just before it is served4 ,,very ,,good ,,lemon ,,creams ,,made ,,without ,,cream4 ,pour over the very thin rinds of two moderate-sized but perfectly sound fresh lemons and six ounces of sugar1 half a pint of spring water1 and let them remain for six hours3 then add the strained juice of the lemons1 and five fresh eggs well beaten and also strained2 take out the lemon-rind1 and stir the mixture without ceasing over a gentle fire until it has boiled softly from six to eight minutes3 it will not curdle as it would did milk supply the place of the water and lemon-juice4 ,the creams are1 we think1 more delicate1 though not quite so thick1 when the yolks only of six eggs are used for them4 ,they will keep well for nearly a week in really cold weather4 ,rinds of lemons1 #b2 sugar1 #f oz4 7or #h when a very sweet dish is preferred72 cold water1 #a_/b pint3 #f hours4 ,juice of lemons1 #b2 eggs1 #e3 to be boiled softly #f to #h minutes4 ,obs4--,lemon creams may1 on occasion1 be more expeditiously prepared1 by rasping the rind of the fruit upon the sugar which is used for them2 or1 by paring it thin1 and boiling it for a few minutes with the lemon-juice1 sugar1 and water1 before they are stirred to the eggs4 ,,fruit ,,creams1 ,,and ,,italian ,,creams4 ,these are very quickly and easily made1 by mixing with good cream a sufficient proportion of the sweetened juice of fresh fruit1 or of well-made fruit jelly or jam1 to flavour it3 a few drops of prepared cochineal may be added to deepen the colour when it is required for any particular purpose4 ,a quarter of a pint of strawberry or of raspberry jelly will fully flavour a pint of cream3 a very little lemon-juice improves almost all compositions of this kind4 ,when jam is used it must first be gradually mixed with the cream1 and then worked through a sieve1 to take out the seed or skin of the fruit4 ,all fresh juice1 for this purpose1 must of course1 be cold2 that of strawberries is best obtained by crushing the fruit and strewing sugar over it4 ,peaches1 pine-apple1 apricots1 or nectarines1 may be simmered for a few minutes in a little syrup1 and this1 drained well from them1 will serve extremely well to mix with the cream when it has become thoroughly cold3 the lemon-juice should be added to all of these4 ,when the ingredients are well blended1 lightly whisk or mill them to a froth2 take this off with a skimmer as it rises1 and lay it upon a fine sieve reversed1 to drain1 or if it is to be served in glasses1 fill them with it at once4 ,italian creams are either fruit-flavoured only1 or mixed with wine like syllabubs1 then whisked to a stiff froth and put into a perforated mould1 into which a muslin is first laid2 or into a small hair-sieve 7which must also first be lined with the muslin71 and left to drain until the following day1 when the cream must be very gently turned out1 and dished1 and garnished1 as fancy may direct4 ,,very ,,superior ,,whipped ,,syllabubs4 ,weigh seven ounces of fine sugar and rasp on it the rinds of two fresh sound lemons of good size1 then pound or roll it to powder1 and put it into a bowl with the strained juice of the lemons1 two large glasses of sherry1 and two of brandy2 when the sugar is dissolved add a pint of very fresh cream1 and whisk or mill the mixture well2 take off the froth as it rises1 and put it into glasses4 ,these syllabubs will remain good for several days1 and should always be made if possible1 four-and-twenty hours before they are wanted for table4 ,the full flavour of the lemon-rind is obtained with less trouble than in rasping1 by paring it very thin indeed1 and infusing it for some hours in the juice of the fruit4 ,sugar1 #g oz42 rind and juice of lemons1 #b2 sherry1 #b large wineglassesful2 brandy1 #b wineglassesful2 cream1 #a pint4 ,obs4--,these proportions are sufficient for two dozens or more of syllabubs3 they are often made with almost equal quantities of wine and cream1 but are considered less wholesome without a portion of brandy4 ,,blanc-,,manges4 ,,good ,,common ,,blanc-,,mange1 ,,or ,,blanc-,,manger4 7,author's ,receipt47 ,illustration3 ,blanc-mange or ,cake ,mould4 ,infuse for an hour in a pint and a half of new milk the very thin rind of one small1 or of half a large lemon and four or five bitter almonds1 blanched and bruised1#afb then add two ounces of sugar1 or rather more for persons who like the blanc-mange very sweet1 and an ounce and a half of isinglass4 ,boil them gently over a clear fire1 stirring them often until this last is dissolved2 take off the scum1 stir in half a pint1 or rather more1 of rich cream1 and strain the blanc-mange into a bowl2 it should be moved gently with a spoon until nearly cold to prevent the cream from settling on the surface4 ,before it is moulded1 mix with it by degrees a wineglassful of brandy4 ,footnote #afb3 ,these should always be very sparingly used4 ,new milk1 #a-a_/b pint2 rind of lemon1 #a_/b large or whole small2 bitter almonds1 #h3 infuse #a hour4 ,sugar1 #b to #c oz42 isinglass1 #a-a_/b oz43 #aj minutes4 ,cream1 #a_/b pint2 brandy1 #a wineglassful4 ,,richer ,,blanc-,,mange4 ,a pint of good cream with a pint of new milk1 sweetened and flavoured as above 7or in any other manner which good taste may dictate71 with a little additional sugar1 and the same proportion of isinglass1 will make very good blanc-mange4 ,two ounces of ,jordan almonds may be pounded and mixed with it1 but they are not needed with the cream4 ,,jaumange1 ,,or ,,jaune ,,manger1 ,,sometimes ,,called ,,dutch ,,flummery4 ,pour on the very thin rind of a large lemon and half a pound of sugar broken small1 a pint of water1 and keep them stirred over a gentle fire until they have simmered for three or four minutes1 then leave the saucepan by the side of the stove that the syrup may taste well of the lemon4 ,in ten or fifteen minutes afterwards add two ounces of isinglass1 and stir the mixture often until this is dissolved1 then throw in the strained juice of four sound moderate-sized lemons1 and a pint of sherry2 mix the whole briskly with the beaten yolks of eight fresh eggs1 and pass it through a delicately clean hair-sieve3 next thicken it in a jar or jug placed in a pan of boiling water1 turn it into a bowl1 and when it has become cool and been allowed to settle for a minute or two1 pour it into moulds which have been laid in water4 ,some persons add a small glass of brandy to it1 and deduct so much from the quantity of water4 ,rind of #a lemon2 sugar1 #h oz42 water1 #a pint3 #c or #d minutes4 ,isinglass1 #b oz42 juice1 #d lemons2 yolks of eggs1 #h2 wine1 #a pint2 brandy 7at pleasure71 #a wineglassful4 ,,extremely ,,good ,,strawberry ,,blanc-,,mange1 ,,or ,,bavarian ,,cream4 ,crush slightly with a silver or wooden spoon1 a quart1 measured without their stalks1 of fresh and richly-flavoured strawberries2 strew over them eight ounces of pounded sugar1 and let them stand for three or four hours2 then turn them on to a fine hair-sieve reversed1 and rub them through it4 ,melt over a gentle fire two ounces of the best isinglass in a pint of new milk1 and sweeten it with four ounces of sugar2 strain it through a muslin1 and mix it with a pint and a quarter of sweet thick cream2 keep these stirred until they are nearly or quite cold1 then pour them gradually to the strawberries1 whisking them briskly together2 and last of all throw in1 by small portions1 the strained juice of a fine sound lemon4 ,mould the blanc-mange1 and set it in a very cool place for twelve hours or more before it is served4 ,strawberries stalked1 #a quart2 sugar1 #h oz42 isinglass1 #b oz42 new milk1 #a pint2 sugar1 #d oz42 cream1 #a-a_/d pint2 juice1 #a lemon4 ,obs4--,we have retained here the old-fashioned name of blanc-mange 7or blanc-manger7 because it is more familiar to many ,english readers than any of recent introduction2 but moulded strawberry-cream would be more appropriate2 as nothing can properly be called blanc manger which is not white4 ,by mingling the cream1 after it has been whisked1 or whipped1 to the other ingredients1 the preparation becomes what is called un ,fromage ,bavarois1 or ,bavarian cream1 sometimes simply1 une ,bavaroise4 ,,quince ,,blanc-,,mange4 7,delicious47 ,this1 if carefully made1 and with ripe quinces1 is one of the most richly-flavoured preparations of fruit that we have ever tasted2 and the receipt1 we may venture to say1 will be altogether new to the reader4 ,dissolve in a pint of prepared juice of quinces 7see page #def71 an ounce of the best isinglass2 next1 add ten ounces of sugar1 roughly pounded1 and stir these together gently over a clear fire1 from twenty to thirty minutes1 or until the juice jellies in falling from the spoon4 ,remove the scum carefully1 and pour the boiling jelly gradually to half a pint of thick cream1 stirring them briskly together as they are mixed3 they must be stirred until very nearly cold1 and then poured into a mould which has been rubbed in every part with the smallest possible quantity of very pure salad oil1 or if more convenient1 into one that has been dipped into cold water4 ,obs4--,this blanc-manger which we had made originally on the thought of the moment for a friend1 proved so very rich in flavour1 that we inserted the exact receipt for it1 as we had had it made on our first trial2 but it might be simplified by merely boiling the juice1 sugar1 and isinglass1 together for a few minutes1 and then mixing them with the cream4 ,an ounce and a half of isinglass and three-quarters of a pint of cream might then be used for it4 ,the juice of other fruit may be substituted for that of the quinces4 ,juice of quinces1 #a pint2 isinglass1 #a oz43 #e to #aj minutes4 ,sugar1 #aj oz43 #bj to #cj minutes4 ,cream1 #a_/b pint4 ,,quince ,,blanc-,,mange1 ,,with ,,almond ,,cream4 ,when cream is not procurable1 which will sometimes happen in the depth of winter1 almonds1 if plentifully used1 will afford a very good substitute1 though the finer blanc-mange is made from the foregoing receipt4 ,on four ounces of almonds1 blanched and beaten to the smoothest paste1 and moistened in the pounding with a few drops of water1 to prevent their oiling1 pour a pint of boiling quince-juice2 stir them together1 and turn them into a strong cloth1 of which let the ends be held and twisted different ways by two persons1 to express the cream from the almonds2 put the juice again on the fire1 with half a pound of sugar1 and when it boils1 throw in nearly an ounce of fine isinglass2 simmer the whole for five minutes1 take off the scum1 stir the blanc-mange until it is nearly cold1 then mould it for table4 ,increase the quantity both of this and of the preceding blanc-mange1 when a large dish of either is required4 ,quince-juice1 #a pint2 ,jordan almond1 #d oz42 sugar1 #a_/b lb2 isinglass1 nearly #a oz3 #e minutes4 ,,apricot ,,blanc-,,mange1 ,,or ,,cr,,me ,,parisienne4 ,dissolve gently an ounce of fine isinglass in a pint of new milk or of thin cream1 and strain it through a folded muslin2 put it into a clean saucepan1 with three ounces of sugar1 broken into small lumps1 and when it boils1 stir to it half a pint of rich cream2 add it1 at first by spoonsful only1 to eight ounces of the finest apricot jam1 mix them very smoothly1 and stir the whole until it is nearly cold that the jam may not sink to the bottom of the mould3 a tablespoonful of lemon-juice will improve the flavour4 ,when cream is scarce1 use milk instead1 with an additional quarter of an ounce of isinglass1 and enrich it by pouring it boiling on the same proportion of almonds as for the second quince blanc-mange 7see page #dgh74 ,cream can in all cases be substituted entirely for the milk1 when a very rich preparation is desired4 ,peach jam will answer admirably for this receipt2 but none of any kind should be used for it which has not been passed through a sieve when made4 ,isinglass1 #a oz42 new milk1 #a pint2 cream1 #a_/b pint2 sugar1 #c oz42 apricot jam1 #a_/b lb42 lemon-juice1 #a tablespoonful4 ,or1 peach jam1 #a_/b lb42 cream1 #a-a_/b pint4 ,,currant ,,blanc-,,mange4 ,in three-quarters of a pint of clear currant-juice1 drawn from the fruit as for jelly1 and strained1 dissolve an ounce and a half of isinglass2 add nine ounces of sugar broken small1 give the whole a boil1 strain it1 and stir it by slow degrees to three-quarters of a pint of thick cold cream2 when it is less than milk-warm pour it into the moulds4 ,the proportions of juice and cream can be varied to the taste1 and a portion of raspberries or strawberries added to the currants4 ,black currants would1 we think1 make an agreeable variety of this blanc-mange for persons who like their peculiar flavour1 but we have not tried them4 ,clear juice of red currant1 #c_/d pint2 isinglass1 #a-a_/b oz42 sugar1 #i oz42 cream1 #c_/d pint4 ,,lemon ,,sponge1 ,,or ,,moulded ,,lemon ,,cream4 ,infuse in half a pint of cream the very thin rind of one large lemon1 or of one and a half of smaller size2 or1 instead of this1 rasp the fruit with the sugar which is to be used for the preparation4 ,add three-quarters of an ounce of fine isinglass1 and when this is dissolved throw in seven ounces of sugar in small lumps4 ,do not boil the mixture1 to reduce it1 but let it be kept near the point of simmering1 until the sugar and isinglass are entirely dissolved1 and a full flavour of the lemon-rind has been obtained2 then stir in another half-pint of cream1 and strain the mixture immediately into a deep bowl or pan4 ,when it is quite cold1 add to it very gradually the strained juice of one lemon and a half1 whisking the preparation well all the time2 and when it begins to set1 which may be known by its becoming very thick1 whisk it lightly to a sponge1 pour it into an oiled mould1 and1 to prevent its breaking when it is dished1 just dip the mould into hot1 but not boiling water2 loosen the edges carefully1 and turn out the cream3 to save time and trouble the whisking may be omitted1 and a plain lemon-cream take place of the sponge4 ,cream1 #a pint2 rind of lemons #b middling-sized1 or #a-a_/b large2 isinglass1 #c_/d oz42 sugar1 #g oz42 juice of #a-a_/b lemon4 ,obs4--,for this1 as for all other dishes of the kind1 a little more or less of isinglass may be required according to the state of the weather1 a larger proportion being needed in summer than in winter4 ,,an ,,apple ,,hedge-,,hog1 ,,or ,,su,,doise4 ,illustration ,this dish is formed of apples1 pared1 cored without being divided and stewed tolerably tender in a light syrup4 ,these are placed in a dish1 after being well drained1 and filled with apricot1 or any other rich marmalade1 and arranged in two or more layers1 so as to give1 when the whole is complete1 the form shown in the engraving4 ,the number required must depend on the size of the dish4 ,from three to five pounds more must be stewed down into a smooth and dry marmalade1 and with this all the spaces between them are to be filled up1 and the whole are to be covered with it2 an icing of two eggs1 beaten to a very solid froth1 and mixed with two heaped teaspoonsful of sugar1 must then be spread evenly over the sudoise1 fine sugar sifted on this1 and spikes of blanched almonds1 cut lengthwise1 stuck over the entire surface3 the dish is then to be placed in a moderate oven until the almonds are browned1 but not too deeply1 and the apples are hot through4 ,it is not easy to give the required form with less than fifteen apples2 eight of these may first be simmered in a syrup made with half a pint of water and six ounces of sugar1 and the remainder may be thrown in after these are lifted out4 ,care must be taken to keep them firm4 ,the marmalade should be sweet1 and pleasantly flavoured with lemon4 ,,very ,,good ,,old-,,fashioned ,,boiled ,,custard4 ,throw into a pint and a half of new milk1 the very thin rind of a fresh lemon1 and let it infuse for half an hour1 then simmer them together for a few minutes1 and add four ounces and a half of white sugar4 ,beat thoroughly the yolks of fourteen fresh eggs1 mix with them another half-pint of new milk1 stir the boiling milk quickly to them1 take out the lemon-peel1 and turn the custard into a deep jug2 set this over the fire in a pan of boiling water1 and keep the custard stirred gently1 but without ceasing1 until it begins to thicken2 then move the spoon rather more quickly1 making it always touch the bottom of the jug1 until the mixture is brought to the point of boiling1 when it must be instantly taken from the fire1 or it will curdle in a moment4 ,pour it into a bowl1 and keep it stirred until nearly cold1 then add to it by degrees a wineglassful of good brandy1 and two ounces of blanched almonds1 cut into spikes2 or omit these1 at pleasure4 ,a few bitter ones1 bruised1 can be boiled in the milk in lieu of lemon-peel1 when their flavour is preferred4 ,new milk1 #a quart2 rind of #a lemon2 sugar1 #d-a_/b oz42 yolks of eggs1 #ad2 salt1 less than #a_/d saltspoonful4 ,,rich ,,boiled ,,custard4 ,take a small cupful from a quart of fresh cream1 and simmer the remainder for a few minutes with four ounces of sugar and the rind of a lemon1 or give it any other flavour that may be preferred4 ,beat and strain the yolks of eight eggs1 mix them with the cupful of cream1 and stir the rest boiling to them3 thicken the custard like the preceding one4 ,cream1 #a quart2 sugar1 #d oz42 yolks of eggs1 #h4 ,,the ,,queen',s ,,custard4 ,on the beaten and strained yolks of twelve new-laid eggs pour a pint and a half of boiling cream which has been sweetened1 with three ounces of sugar2 add the smallest pinch of salt1 and thicken the custard as usual4 ,when nearly cold1 flavour it with a glass and a half of noyau1 maraschino1 or cuirasseau1 and add the sliced almonds or not1 at pleasure4 ,yolks of eggs1 #ab2 cream1 #a-a_/b pint2 sugar1 #c oz42 little salt2 noyau1 maraschino1 or cuirasseau1 #a-a_/b wineglassful4 ,,currant ,,custard4 ,boil in a pint of clear currant-juice ten ounces of sugar for three minutes1 take off the scum1 and pour the boiling juice on eight well-beaten eggs2 thicken the custard in a jug set into a pan of water1 pour it out1 stir it till nearly cold1 then add to it carefully1 and by degrees1 half a pint of rich cream1 and last of all two tablespoonsful of strained lemon-juice4 ,when the currants are very ripe omit one ounce of the sugar4 ,white currants and strawberries1 cherries1 red or white raspberries1 or a mixture of any of these fruits1 may be used for these custards with good effect3 they are excellent4 ,currant-juice1 #a pint2 sugar1 #aj oz43 #c minutes4 ,eggs1 #h2 cream1 #a_/b pint2 lemon-juice1 #b tablespoonsful4 ,,quince ,,or ,,apple ,,custards4 ,add to a pint of apple-juice prepared as for jelly1 a tablespoonful of strained lemon-juice1 and from four to six ounces of sugar according to the acidity of the fruit2 stir these boiling1 quickly1 and in small portions1 to eight well-beaten eggs1 and thicken the custard in a jug placed in a pan of boiling water1 in the usual manner4 ,a larger proportion of lemon-juice and a high flavouring of a rind can be given when approved4 ,for quince custards1 which if well made are excellent1 observe the same directions as for the apple1 but omit the lemon-juice4 ,as we have before observed1 all custards are much finer when made with the yolks only of the eggs1 of which the number must be increased nearly half1 when this is done4 ,prepared apple-juice 7see page #def71 #a pint2 lemon-juice1 #a tablespoonful2 sugar1 #d to #f oz42 eggs1 #h4 ,quince custards1 same proportions1 but no lemon-juice4 ,obs4--,in making lemon-creams the apple-juice may be substituted very advantageously for water1 without varying the receipt in other respects4 ,,the ,,duke',s ,,custard4 ,drain well from their juice1 and then roll in dry sifted sugar1 as many fine brandied ,morella cherries as will cover thickly the bottom of the dish in which this is to be sent to table2 arrange them in it1 and pour over them from a pint to a pint and a half of rich cold boiled custard2 garnish the edge with macaroons or ,naples biscuits1 or pile upon the custard some solid rose-coloured whipped cream1 highly flavoured with brandy4 ,brandied ,morella cherries1 #a_/b to whole pint2 boiled custard1 from #a to #a-a_/b pint2 thick cream1 #a_/b pint or more2 brandy1 #a to #b glassesful2 sugar1 #b to #c oz42 juice of #a_/b large lemon2 prepared cochineal1 or carmine1 #bj to #dj drops4 ,,chocolate ,,custards4 ,dissolve gently by the side of the fire an ounce and a half of the best chocolate in rather more than a wineglassful of water1 and then boil it until it is perfectly smooth2 mix with it a pint of milk well flavoured with lemon peel or vanilla1 add two ounces of fine sugar1 and when the whole boils1 stir it to five well-beaten eggs which have been strained4 ,put the custard into a jar or jug1 set it into a pan of boiling water1 and stir it without ceasing until it is thick4 ,do not put it into glasses or a dish until it is nearly or quite cold4 ,these1 as well as all other custards1 are infinitely finer when made with the yolks only of the eggs1 of which the number must then be increased4 ,two ounces of chocolate1 a pint of milk1 half a pint of cream1 two or three ounces of sugar1 and eight yolks of eggs1 will make very superior custards of this kind4 ,rasped chocolate1 #a-a_/b oz42 water1 #a large wineglassful3 #e to #h minutes4 ,new milk1 #a pint2 eggs1 #e2 sugar1 #b oz4 ,or3 chocolate1 #b oz42 water1 #a_/d pint2 new milk1 #a pint2 sugar1 #b-a_/b to #c oz42 cream1 #a_/b pint2 yolks of eggs1 #h4 ,obs4--,either of these may be moulded by dissolving from half to three quarters of an ounce of isinglass in the milk4 ,the proportion of chocolate can be increased to the taste4 ,,common ,,baked ,,custard4 ,mix a quart of new milk with eight well beaten eggs1 strain the mixture through a fine sieve1 and sweeten it with from five to eight ounces of sugar1 according to the taste2 add a small pinch of salt1 and pour the custard into a deep dish with or without a lining or rim of paste1 grate nutmeg or over the top1 and bake it in a very slow oven from twenty to thirty minutes1 or longer1 should it not be firm in the centre4 ,a custard1 if well made1 and properly baked1 will be quite smooth when cut1 without the honey-combed appearance which a hot oven gives2 and there will be no whey in the dish4 ,new milk1 #a quart2 eggs1 #h2 sugar1 #e to #h oz42 salt1 #a_/d saltspoonful2 nutmeg or lemon-grate3 baked1 slow oven1 #cj to #dj minutes1 or more4 ,a ,,finer ,,baked ,,custard4 ,boil together gently1 for five minutes1 a pint and a half of new milk1 a few grains of salt1 the very thin rind of a lemon1 and six ounces of loaf sugar2 stir these boiling1 but very gradually1 to the well-beaten yolks of ten fresh eggs1 and the whites of four2 strain the mixture1 and add to it half a pint of good cream2 let it cool1 and then flavour it with a few spoonsful of brandy1 or a little ratifia2 finish and bake it by the directions given for the common custard above2 or pour it into small well-buttered cups1 and bake it very slowly from ten to twelve minutes4 ,,french ,,custards ,,or ,,creams4 ,to a quart of new milk allow the yolks of twelve fresh eggs1 but to equal parts of milk and cream of ten only4 ,from six to eight ounces of sugar will sweeten the custard sufficiently for general taste1 but more can be added at will2 boil this for a few minutes gently in the milk with a grain or two of salt1 and stir the mixture briskly to the eggs1 as soon as it is taken from the fire4 ,butter a round deep dish1 pour in the custard1 and place it in a pan of water at the point of boiling1 taking care that it shall not reach to within an inch of the edge2 let it just simmer1 and no more1 from an hour to an hour and a half3 when quite firm in the middle1 it will be done4 ,a very few live embers should be kept on the lid of the stewpan to prevent the steam falling from it into the custard4 ,when none is at hand of a form to allow of this1 it is better to use a charcoal fire1 and to lay an oven-leaf1 or tin1 over the pan1 and the embers in the centre4 ,the small ,french furnace1 shown in ,chapter ,,xxiii41 is exceedingly convenient for preparations of this kind2 and there is always more or less of difficulty in keeping a coal fire entirely free from smoke for any length of time4 ,serve the custard cold1 with chopped macaroons1 or ratafias1 laid thickly round the edge so as to form a border an inch deep4 ,a few petals of fresh orange-blossoms infused in the milk will give it a most agreeable flavour1 very superior to that derived from the distilled water4 ,half a pod of vanilla1 cut in short lengths1 and well bruised1 may be used instead of either2 but the milk should then stand some time by the fire before or after it boils1 and it must be strained through a muslin before it is added to the eggs1 as the small seed of the vanilla would probably pass through a sieve4 ,the ,french make their custards1 which they call crmes1 also in small china cups1 for each of which they allow one egg-yolk1 and then add sufficient milk or cream to nearly fill them2 they sweeten and give them a delicate flavour2 and simmer them in a pan of water until they are set4 ,new milk1 #a quart2 yolks of eggs1 #ab2 sugar1 #f to #h oz4 ,or3 new milk1 #a pint2 cream1 #a pint2 yolks of eggs1 #aj2 flavouring of orange-flowers or vanilla3 simmered in water-bath1 #a to #a-a_/b hour4 ,,german ,,puffs4 ,pound to a perfectly smooth paste two ounces of ,jordan almonds and six bitter ones2 mix with them1 by slow degrees1 the yolks of six1 and the whites of three eggs4 ,dissolve in half a pint of rich cream1 four ounces of fresh butter1 and two of fine sugar2 pour these hot to the eggs1 stirring them briskly together1 and when the mixture has become cool1 flavour it with half a glass of brandy1 of cuirasseau1 or of orange-flower water2 or1 in lieu of either1 with a little lemon-brandy4 ,butter some cups thickly1 and strew into them a few slices of candied citron1 or orange-rind2 pour in the mixture1 and bake the puffs twenty minutes1 in a slow oven4 ,jordan almonds1 #b oz42 bitter almonds1 #f2 eggs1 whites1 #c--yolks1 #f2 cream1 #a_/b pint2 butter1 #d oz42 sugar1 #b oz42 brandy1 cuirasseau1 or orange-flower water1 #a_/b wineglassful 7or little lemon-brandy73 #bj minutes1 slow oven4 ,a ,,meringue ,,of ,,rhubarb1 ,,or ,,green ,,gooseberries4 ,weigh a pound of delicate young rhubarb-stems after they have been carefully pared and cut into short lengths2 mix eight ounces of pounded sugar with them1 and stew them gently until they form a smooth pulp2 then quicken the boiling1 and stir them often until they are reduced to a tolerably dry marmalade4 ,when the fruit has reached this point turn it from the pan and let it stand until it is quite cold4 ,separate the whites of four fresh eggs carefully from the yolks1 and whisk them to a froth sufficiently solid to remain standing in points when it is dropped from the whisk or fork4 ,common cooks sometimes fail entirely in very light preparations from not properly understanding this extremely easy process1 which requires nothing beyond plenty of space in the bowl or basin used1 and regular but not violent whisking until the eggs whiten1 and gradually assume the appearance of snow4 ,no drop of liquid must remain at the bottom of the basin1 and the mass must be firm enough to stand up1 as has been said1 in points4 ,when in this state1 mingle with it four heaped tablespoonsful of dry sifted sugar1 stir these gently together1 and when they are quite mixed1 lay them lightly over the rhubarb in a rather deep tart-dish4 ,place the meringue in a moderate oven and bake it for about half an hour1 but ascertain1 before it is served1 that the centre is quite firm4 ,the crust formed by the white of egg and sugar1 which is in fact the meringue1 should be of a light equal brown1 and crisp quite through4 ,if placed in an exceedingly slow oven1 the underpart of it will remain half liquid1 and give an uninviting appearance to the fruit when it is served4 ,unless the rhubarb should be very acid1 six ounces of sugar will be sufficient to sweeten it for many tastes4 ,it is a great improvement to this dish to diminish the proportion of fruit1 and to pour some thick boiled custard upon it before the meringue is laid on4 ,obs4--,when gooseberries are substituted for spring-fruit1 a pint and a half will be sufficient for this preparation1 or even a smaller proportion when only one of quite moderate size is required4 ,in the early part of their season they will be more acid even than the rhubarb1 and rather more sugar must be allowed for them4 ,,creamed ,,spring ,,fruit1 ,,or ,,rhubarb ,,trifle4 ,boil down the rhubarb with seven ounces of sugar1 after having prepared it as above1 and when it is perfectly cold1 but not long before it is sent to table1 pour over it about half a pint of rich boiled custard also quite cold1 then heap on this some well drained1 but slightly-sweetened whipped cream1 which should be good and very fresh when it is whisked1 but not heavily thick1 or it will be less easily converted into a snow-froth4 ,the rhubarb will be very nice if served with the whipped cream only on it4 ,,meringue ,,of ,,pears1 ,,or ,,other ,,fruit4 ,fill a deep tart-dish nearly to the brim with stewed pears1 and let them be something more than half covered with their juice4 ,whisk to a solid froth the whites of five eggs2 stir to them five tablespoonsful of dry sifted sugar1 and lay them lightly and equally over the fruit2 put the meringue immediately into a moderate oven1 and bake it half an hour4 ,cherries1 bullaces1 and damsons1 with various other kinds of plums1 first either stewed as for comptes 7see page #deg71 or baked with sugar1 as for winter use1 answer as well as pears for this dish2 which may1 likewise1 be made of apples1 peaches1 apricots1 or common plums boiled down quite to a marmalade1 with sufficient sugar to sweeten them moderately3 the skins and stones of these last should be removed1 but a few of the blanched kernels may be added to the fruit4 ,dish filled with stewed pears or other fruit2 whites of eggs1 #e2 pounded sugar1 #e tablespoonsful3 baked1 #a_/b hour4 ,,an ,,apple ,,charlotte1 ,,or ,,charlotte ,,de ,,pommes4 ,illustration ,butter a plain mould 7a round or square cake-tin will answer the purpose quite well71 and line it entirely with thin slices of the crumb of a stale loaf1 cut so as to fit into it with great exactness1 and dipped into clarified butter4 ,when this is done1 fill the mould to the brim with apple marmalade2 cover the top with slices of bread dipped in butter1 and on these place a dish1 a large plate1 or the cover of a ,french stewpan with a weight upon it4 ,send the ,charlotte to a brisk oven for three quarters of an hour should it be small1 and for an hour if large4 ,turn it out with great care1 and serve it hot4 ,if baked in a slack oven it will not take a proper degree of colour1 and it will be liable to break in the dishing4 ,the strips of bread must of course join very perfectly1 for if any spaces were left between them the syrup of the fruit would escape and destroy the good appearance of the dish3 should there not have been sufficient marmalade prepared to fill the mould entirely1 a jar of quince or apricot jam1 or of preserved cherries even1 may be added to it with advantage4 ,the butter should be well drained from the ,charlotte before it is taken from the mould2 and sugar may be sifted thickly over it before it is served1 or it may be covered with any kind of clear red jelly4 ,a more elegant1 and we think an easier mode of forming the crust1 is to line the mould with small rounds of bread stamped out with a plain cake or paste cutter1 then dipped in butter1 and placed with the edges sufficiently one over the other to hold the fruit securely3 the strips of bread are sometimes arranged in the same way4 #c_/d to #a hour1 quick oven4 ,,marmalade ,,for ,,the ,,charlotte4 ,weigh three pounds of good boiling apples1 after they have been pared1 cored1 and quartered2 put them into a stewpan with six ounces of fresh butter1 three quarters of a pound of sugar beaten to powder1 three quarters of a teaspoonful of pounded cinnamon1 and the strained juice of a lemon2 let these stew over a gentle fire1 until they form a perfectly smooth and dry marmalade2 keep them often stirred that they may not burn1 and let them cool before they are put into the crust4 ,this quantity is for a moderate-sized ,charlotte4 ,a ,,charlotte ,,la ,,parisienne4 ,this dish is sometimes called in ,england a ,vienna cake2 and it is known here also1 we believe1 as a ,gteaux de ,bordeaux4 ,cut horizontally into half-inch slices a ,savoy or sponge cake1 and cover each slice with a different kind of preserve2 replace them in their original form1 and spread equally over the cake an icing made with the whites of three eggs1 and four ounces of the finest pounded sugar2 sift more sugar over it in every part1 and put it into a very gentle oven to dry4 ,the eggs should be whisked to snow before they are used4 ,one kind of preserve1 instead of several1 can be used for this dish2 and a rice or a pound cake may supply the place of the ,savoy or sponge biscuit4 ,a ,,gertrude ,,la ,,creme4 ,slice a plain pound or rice cake as for the ,charlotte la ,parisienne1 and take a round out of the centre of each slice with a tin-cutter before the preserve is laid on2 replace the whole in its original form1 ice the outside with a green or rose coloured icing at pleasure1 and dry it in a gentle oven2 or decorate it instead with leaves of almond paste1 fastening them to it with white of egg4 ,just before it is sent to table1 fill it with well-drained whipped cream1 flavoured as for a trifle or in any other way to the taste4 ,,pommes ,,au ,,beurre4 7,buttered apples4 ,excellent47 ,pare six or eight fine apples of a firm but good boiling kind1 and core without piercing them through1 or dividing them2 fill the cavities with fresh butter1 put a quarter of a pound more1 cut small1 into a stewpan just large enough to contain the apples in a single layer1 place them closely together on it1 and stew them as softly as possible1 turning them occasionally until they are almost sufficiently tender to serve2 then strew upon them as much sifted sugar as will sweeten the dish highly1 and a teaspoonful of pounded cinnamon2 shake these well in and upon the fruit1 and stew it for a few minutes longer4 ,lift it out1 arrange it in a hot dish1 put into each apple as much warm apricot jam as it will contain1 and lay a small quantity on the top2 pour the syrup from the pan round1 but not on the fruit1 and serve it immediately4 ,apples1 #f to #h2 fresh butter1 #d oz41 just simmered till tender4 ,sugar1 #f to #h oz42 cinnamon1 #a teaspoonful3 #e minutes4 ,apricot jam as needed4 ,obs4--,particular care must be taken to keep the apples entire3 they should rather steam in a gentle heat than boil4 ,it is impossible to specify the precise time which will render them sufficiently tender1 as this must depend greatly on the time of year and the sort of fruit4 ,if the stewpan were placed in a very slow oven1 the more regular heat of it would perhaps be better in its effect than the stewing4 ,,su,,doise ,,of ,,peaches4 ,illustration3 ,sudoise of ,peaches4 ,pare and divide four fine1 ripe peaches1 and let them just simmer from five to eight minutes in a syrup made with the third of a pint of water and three ounces of very white sugar1 boiled together for fifteen minutes2 lift them out carefully into a deep dish1 and pour about half the syrup over them1 and into the remaining half throw a couple of pounds more of quite ripe peaches1 and boil them to a perfectly smooth dry pulp or marmalade1 with as much additional sugar in fine powder1 as the nature of the fruit may require4 ,lift the other peaches from the syrup1 and reduce it by very quick boiling1 more than half4 ,spread a deep layer of the marmalade in a dish1 arrange the peaches symmetrically round it1 and fill all the spaces between them with the marmalade2 place the half of a blanched peach-kernel in each1 pour the reduced syrup equally over the surface1 and form a border round the dish with ,italian macaroons1 or1 in lieu of these1 with candied citron1 sliced very thin1 and cut into leaves with a small paste-cutter4 ,a little lemon-juice brings out the flavour of all preparations of peaches1 and may be added with good effect to this4 ,when the fruit is scarce1 the marmalade 7which ought to be very white7 may be made in part1 or entirely1 with nonsuches4 ,the better to preserve their form1 the peaches are sometimes merely wiped1 and then boiled tolerably tender in the syrup before they are pared or split4 ,half a pint of water1 and from five to six ounces of sugar must then be allowed for them4 ,if any of those used for the marmalade should not be quite ripe1 it will be better to pass it through a sieve1 when partially done1 to prevent its being lumpy4 ,large ripe peaches1 pared and halved1 #d3 simmered in syrup1 #e to #h minutes4 ,marmalade3 peaches 7or nonsuches7 #b lbs42 sugar1 #a_/b to #c_/d lb43 #c_/d to #a hour1 or more4 ,strained lemon-juice1 #a tablespoonful4 ,citron1 or macaroons1 as needed4 ,peaches1 if boiled whole in syrup1 #ae to #ah minutes4 ,obs4--,the number of peaches can1 at pleasure1 be increased to six1 and three or four of the halves can be piled above the others in the centre of the dish4 ,,aroc ,,doc 7,,or ,,sweet ,,rice1 ,,la ,,portugaise47 ,wash thoroughly1 then drain1 and wipe dry in a soft cloth1 half a pound of the best ,carolina rice4 ,pour to it three pints of new milk1 and when it has gently stewed for half an hour1 add eight ounces of sugar broken into small lumps1 let it boil until it is dry and tender1 and when it is nearly so1 stir to it two ounces of blanched almonds1 chopped#afc or pounded4 ,turn the rice when done into shallow dishes or soup plates1 and shake it until the surface is smooth2 then sift over it rather thickly through a muslin1 some freshly-powdered cinnamon1 which will give it the appearance of a baked pudding4 ,serve it cold4 ,it will remain good for several days4 ,this is quite the best sweet preparation of rice that we have ever eaten1 and it is a very favourite dish in ,portugal1 whence the receipt was derived4 ,one or two bitter almonds1 pounded with the sweet ones1 might a little improve its flavour1 and a few spoonsful of rich cream could occasionally be substituted for a small portion of the milk1 but it should not be added until the preparation is three parts done4 ,footnote #afc3 ,the ,portuguese use them not very finely chopped4 ,rice1 #h oz42 milk1 #c pints3 #cj minutes4 ,sugar1 #h oz43 #a hour or more4 ,pounded almonds1 #b oz42 cinnamon1 #a teaspoonful4 ,obs4--,the rice must be frequently stirred while boiling1 particularly after it begins to thicken2 and it will be better not to add the entire quantity of milk at first1 as from a quarter to half a pint less will sometimes prove sufficient4 ,the grain should be thoroughly tender1 but dry and unbroken4 ,,cocoa-,,nut ,,doce4 ,this is merely fine fresh lightly grated cocoa-nut stewed until tender in syrup1 made with one pound of sugar to half a pint of water 7or more to the taste7 and flavoured with orange-flower water4 ,,buttered ,,cherries4 7,,cerises ,,au ,,beurre47 ,cut four ounces of the crumb of a stale loaf into dice1 and fry them a light brown in an ounce and a half of fresh butter2 take them up1 pour the butter from the pan1 and put in another ounce and a half2 to this add a pound of ,kentish cherries without their stalks1 and when they are quite warmed through1 strew in amongst them four ounces of sugar1 and keep the whole well turned over a moderate fire2 pour in gradually half a pint of hot water1 and in fifteen minutes the cherries will be tender4 ,lay the fried bread into a hot dish1 pour the cherries on it1 and serve them directly4 ,bread1 #d oz42 butter1 #a-a_/b oz4 ,cherries1 #a lb42 butter1 #a-a_/b oz43 #aj minutes4 ,sugar1 #d oz42 water1 #a_/b pint3 #ae minutes4 ,obs4--,black-heart cherries may be used for this dish instead of ,kentish ones3 it is an improvement to stone the fruit4 ,we think our readers generally would prefer to the above ,morella cherries stewed from five to seven minutes1 in syrup 7made by boiling five ounces of sugar in half pint of water1 for a quarter of an hour71 and poured hot on the fried bread4 ,two pounds of the fruit1 when it is stoned1 will be required for a full-sized dish4 ,,sweet ,,macaroni4 ,drop gently into a pint and a half of new milk1 when it is boiling fast1 four ounces of fine pipe macaroni1 add a grain or two of salt1 and some thin strips of lemon or orange rind3 cinnamon can be substituted for these when preferred4 ,simmer the macaroni by a gentle fire until it is tolerably tender1 then add from two to three ounces of sugar broken small1 and boil it till the pipes are soft1 and swollen to their full size2 drain1 and arrange it in a hot dish2 stir the milk quickly to the well-beaten yolks of three large1 or of four small eggs1 shake them round briskly over the fire until they thicken1 pour them over the macaroni and serve it immediately2 or instead of the eggs1 heat and sweeten some very rich cream1 pour it on the drained macaroni1 and dust finely-powdered cinnamon over through a muslin1 or strew it thickly with crushed macaroons4 ,for variety1 cover it with the ,german sauce of page #djc1 milled to a light froth4 ,new milk1 #a-a_/b pint2 pipe macaroni1 #d oz42 strips of lemon-rind or cinnamon2 sugar1 #b to #c oz43 #c_/d to #a hour1 or more4 ,,bermuda ,,witches4 ,slice equally some rice1 pound1 or ,savoy cake1 not more than the sixth of an inch thick2 take off the brown edges1 and spread one half of it with ,guava jelly1 or1 if more convenient1 with fine strawberry1 raspberry1 or currant jelly of the best quality 7see ,norman receipt1 #dgh72 on this strew thickly some fresh cocoa-nut grated small and lightly2 press over it the remainder of the cake1 and trim the whole into good form2 divide the slices if large1 pile them slopingly in the centre of a dish upon a very white napkin folded flat1 and garnish or intersperse them with small sprigs of myrtle4 ,for very young people a ,french roll or two1 and good currant jelly1 red or white1 will supply a wholesome and inexpensive dish4 ,,nesselr,,de ,,pudding4 ,we give ,monsieur ,carme's own receipt for this favourite and fashionable dish1 not having ourselves had a good opportunity of proving it2 but as it originated with him he is the best authority for it4 ,it may be varied in many ways1 which the taste or ingenuity of the reader will easily suggest4 ,boil forty fine sound ,spanish chestnuts quite tender in plenty of water1 take off the husks1 and pound the chestnuts perfectly with a few spoonsful of syrup2 rub them through a fine sieve1 and mix them in a basin with a pint of syrup made with a pound of sugar clarified1 and highly-flavoured with a pod of vanilla1 a pint of rich cream1 and the yolks of twelve eggs2 thicken the mixture like a boiled custard2 when it is cold put it into a freezing pot1 adding a glass of maraschino1 and make it set as an iced cream2 then add an ounce of preserved citron cut in dice1 two ounces of currants1 and as many fine raisins stoned and divided 7all of which should be soaked from the day before in some maraschino with a little sugar72 the whole thus mingled1 add a plateful of whipped cream1 and the whites of three eggs prepared as for ,italian meringue4 ,when the pudding is perfectly frozen1 mould it in a pewter mould of the form of a pine-apple1 and place it again in the ice till wanted to serve4 ,preserved cherries may be substituted for the raisins and currants4 ,chestnuts1 #dj2 syrup1 #a pint some spoonsful2 vanilla1 #a pod2 cream1 #a pint2 yolk of eggs1 #ab2 maraschino1 #a glassful2 citron1 #a oz42 currants1 #b oz42 raisins1 #b oz42 whipped cream1 #a plateful2 whites of eggs beaten to snow1 #c4 ,obs4--,as ,monsieur ,carme directs the eggs for his ,italian meringues to be prepared as follows1 he probably intends that they should be mixed with the syrup before they are added to the pudding4 ,boil together half a pound of the finest sugar1 and half a pint of water1 until they begin to be very thick2 then1 with a wooden spoon1 work the sugar against the side of the pan till it whitens2 leave it to cool a little1 work it again1 and then with a whisk mingle with it the eggs whipped to a very firm froth1 which ought to produce a preparation very white1 smooth1 and brilliant4 ,,stewed ,,figs4 7,a ,,very ,,nice ,,compote47 ,put into an enamelled or a copper stewpan1 four ounces of refined sugar1 the very thin rind of a large and fresh lemon1 and a pint of cold water4 ,when the sugar is dissolved1 add a pound of fine ,turkey figs1 and place the stewpan on a trivet above a moderate fire1 or upon a stove1 where they can heat and swell slowly1 and be very gently stewed4 ,when they are quite tender1 add to them two glassesful of port wine1 and the strained juice of the lemon2 arrange them in a glass dish1 and serve them cold4 ,from two hours to two and a half of the gentlest stewing will generally be sufficient to render the figs fit for table4 ,orange-juice and rind can be used for them at pleasure1 instead of the lemon2 two or three bitter almonds maybe boiled in the syrup to give it flavour1 and any wine can be used for it which may be preferred1 but port is best4 ,this compte may be served in the second course hot1 in a rice-border2 or cold for rice-crust4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,chapter ,,xxiv4 ,preserves4 ,illustration3 ,,general ,,remarks ,,on ,,the ,,use ,,and ,,value ,,of ,,preserved ,,fruit4 ,,simple well-made preserves--especially those of our early summer fruits--are most valuable domestic stores1 as they will retain through the entire year or longer1#afd their peculiarly grateful and agreeable flavour1 and supply many wholesome and refreshing varieties of diet through the winter months and spring4 ,they are1 indeed1 as conducive to health--when not cloyingly sweet or taken in excess--as good vegetables are2 and they are inexpensive luxuries 7if as luxuries they must be regarded71 now sugar is so very reasonable in price4 ,by many families they are considered too much as mere superfluities of the table1 and when served only--as they so often are--combined with rich pastry-crust or cream1 or converted into ices and other costly preparations1 may justly be viewed solely in that light4 ,to be eaten in perfection they should be sufficiently boiled down to remain free from mould or fermentation1 and yet not so much reduced as to be dry or hard2 they should not afterwards be subjected to the heat of the oven1#afe but served with some plain pudding1 or light dish of bread1 rice1 ribbon-macaroni1 soujee1 semoulina1 c4 ,when intended for tartlets or creams1 or fruit-sauces1 for which see ,chapter ,,xx41 they should be somewhat less boiled1 and be made with a larger proportion of sugar4 ,footnote #afd3 ,we have had them excellent at the end of three or four years1 but they were made from the produce of a home garden1 as freshly gathered1 and carefully selected as it could be4 ,some clear apricot-marmalade1 some strawberry-jelly1 and some raspberry-jelly1 were amongst those which retained their full flavour and transparency to the last4 ,they were merely covered with two layers of thin writing paper pressed closely on them1 after being saturated with spirits of wine4 ,footnote #afe3 ,for the manner of serving them in pastry without this1 see 8small vol-au-vents and tartlets10 ,chap4 ,,xviii4 ,fruit steamed in bottles is now vended and consumed in very large quantities in this country1 but it is not wholesome1 as it produces often--probably from the amount of fixed air which it contains--violent derangement of the system4 ,when the bottles are filled with water it is less apt to disagree with the eaters1 but it is never so really wholesome as preserves which are made with sugar4 ,that which is baked keeps remarkably well1 and appears to be somewhat less objectionable than that which is steamed4 ,the rich confectionary preparations called wet preserves 7fruits preserved in syrup71 which are principally adapted to formal desserts1 scarcely repay the cost and trouble of making them in private families1 unless they be often required for table4 ,they are in general lusciously sweet1 as they will only remain good with a large proportion of sugar2 and if there be no favourable place of storage for them they soon spoil4 ,when drained and well dried1 they may much more easily be kept uninjured4 ,the general directions for them1 which we append1 and the receipts for dried gooseberries1 cherries1 and apricots which we have inserted here will be sufficient for the guidance of the reader who may wish to attempt them4 ,illustration3 ,fourneau ,economique1 or ,portable ,french ,furnace1 with ,stewpan and ,trivet4 ,no4 #a4 ,portable ,french ,furnace4--#b4 ,depth at which the grating is placed4--#c4 ,stewpan4--#d4 ,trivet4 ,illustration3 ,closed ,furnace and ,cover4 ,illustration3 ,grating4 ,illustration3 ,trevet4 ,the small portable ,french stove1 or furnace1 shown in the preceding page1 with the trivet and stewpan adapted to it1 is exceedingly convenient for all preparations which require either more than usual attention1 or a fire entirely free from smoke2 as it can be placed on a table in a clear light1 and the heat can be regulated at pleasure4 ,it has been used for many of the preserves of which the receipts are given in this chapter1 as well as for various dishes contained in the body of the work4 ,there should always be a free current of air in the room in which it stands when lighted1 as charcoal or braise 7that is to say1 the live embers of large well-burned wood1 drawn from an oven and shut immediately into a closely-stopped iron or copper vessel to extinguish them7 is the only fuel suited to it4 ,to kindle either of these1 two or three bits must be lighted in a common fire1 and laid on the top of that in the furnace1 which should be evenly placed between the grating and the brim1 and then blown gently with the bellows until the whole is alight3 the door of the furnace must in the mean while be open1 and remain so1 unless the heat should at any time be too fierce for the preserves1 when it must be closed for a few minutes1 to moderate it4 ,to extinguish the fire altogether1 the cover must be pressed closely on1 and the door be quite shut3 the embers which remain will serve to rekindle it easily1 but before it is again lighted the grating must be lifted out and all the ashes cleared away4 ,it should be set by in a place which is not damp4 ,in a common grate a clear fire for preserving may be made with coke1 which is a degree less unwholesome than charcoal4 ,the enamelled stewpans which have now come into general use1 are1 from the peculiar nicety of the composition with which they are lined1 better adapted than any others to pickling and preserving1 as they may be used without danger for acids2 and red fruits when boiled in them retain the brightness of their colour as well as if copper or bell-metal were used for them4 ,the form of the old-fashioned preserving-pan1 made usually of one or the other of these1 is shown here2 but it has not1 we should say1 even the advantage of being of convenient shape2 for the handles quickly become heated1 and the pan1 in consequence1 cannot always be instantaneously raised from the fire when the contents threaten to over-boil or to burn4 ,illustration3 ,copper preserving-pan4 ,it is desirable to have three or four wooden spoons or spatulas1 one fine hair-sieve1 at the least1 one or two large squares of common muslin1 and one strainer or more of closer texture1 kept exclusively for preparations of fruit2 for if used for other purposes1 there is the hazard1 without great care1 of their retaining some strong or coarse flavour1 which they would impart to the preserves4 ,a sieve1 for example1 used habitually for soup or gravy1 should never1 on any account1 be brought into use for any kind of confectionary1 nor in making sweet dishes1 nor for straining eggs or milk for puddings1 cakes1 or bread4 ,damp is the great enemy1 not only of preserves and pickles1 but of numberless other household stores2 yet1 in many situations1 it is extremely difficult to exclude it4 ,to keep them in a 8dry cool place0 7words which occur so frequently both in this book1 and in most others on the same subject71 is more easily directed than done4 ,they remain1 we find1 more entirely free from any danger of moulding1 when covered with a brandied paper only1 and placed on the shelves of a tolerably dry store-room1 or in a chiffoneer 7in which we have had them keep unchanged for years74 ,when the slightest fermentation is perceptible in syrup1 it should immediately be boiled for some minutes1 and well skimmed2 the fruit taken from it should then be thrown in1 and well scalded also1 and the whole1 when done1 should be turned into a very clean dry jar2 this kind of preserve should always be covered with one or two skins or with parchment and thick paper when it is not secured from the air with corks4 ,a ,,few ,,general ,,rules ,,and ,,directions ,,for ,,preserving4 #a4 ,let everything used for the purpose be delicately clean and dry2 bottles especially so4 #b4 ,never place a preserving-pan flat upon the fire1 as this will render the preserve liable to burn to1 as it is called2 that is to say1 to adhere closely to the metal1 and then to burn2 it should rest always on a trivet 7that shown with the ,french furnace is very convenient even for a common grate71 or on the lowered bar of a kitchen range when there is no regular preserving stove in a house4 #c4 ,after the sugar is added to them1 stir the preserves gently at first1 and more quickly towards the end1 without quitting them until they are done3 this precaution will always prevent the chance of their being spoiled4 #d4 ,all preserves should be perfectly cleared from the scum as it rises4 #e4 ,fruit which is to be preserved in syrup must first be blanched or boiled gently1 until it is sufficiently softened to absorb the sugar2 and a thin syrup must be poured on it at first1 or it will shrivel instead of remaining plump1 and becoming clear4 ,thus1 if its weight of sugar is to be allowed1 and boiled to a syrup with a pint of water to the pound1 only half the weight must be taken at first1 and this must not be boiled with the water more than fifteen or twenty minutes at the commencement of the process2 a part of the remaining sugar must be added every time the syrup is reboiled1 unless it should be otherwise directed in the receipt4 #f4 ,to preserve both the true flavour and the colour of fruit in jams and jellies1 boil them rapidly until they are well reduced1 before the sugar is added1 and quickly afterwards1 but do not allow them to become so much thickened that the sugar will not dissolve in them easily1 and throw up its scum4 ,in some seasons1 the juice is so much richer than in others1 that this effect takes place almost before one is aware of it2 but the drop which adheres to the skimmer when it is held up1 will show the state it has reached4 #g4 ,never use tin1 iron1 or pewter spoons1 or skimmers1 for preserves1 as they will convert the colour of red fruit into a dingy purple1 and impart1 besides1 a very unpleasant flavour4 #h4 ,when cheap jams or jellies are required1 make them at once with ,lisbon sugar1 but use that which is well refined always1 for preserves in general2 it is a false economy1 as we have elsewhere observed1 to purchase an inferior kind1 as there is great waste from it in the quantity of scum which it throws up4 ,the best has been used for all the receipts given here4 #i4 ,let fruit for preserving be gathered always in perfectly dry weather1 and be free both from the morning and evening dew1 and as much so as possible from dust4 ,when bottled1 it must be steamed or baked during the day on which it is gathered1 or there will be a great loss from the bursting of the bottles2 and for jams and jellies it cannot be too soon boiled down after it is taken from the trees4 ,,to ,,extract ,,the ,,juice ,,of ,,plums ,,for ,,jelly4 ,take the stalks from the fruit1 and throw aside all that is not perfectly sound3 put it into very clean1 large stone jars1 and give part of the harder kinds1 such as bullaces and damson1 a gash with a knife as they are thrown in2 do this especially in filling the upper part of the jars4 ,tie one or two folds of thick paper over them1 and set them for the night into an oven from which the bread has been drawn four or five hours2 or cover them with bladder1 instead of paper1 place them in pans1 or in a copper#aff with water which will reach to quite two-thirds of their height1 and boil them gently from two to three hours1 or until the fruit is quite soft1 and has yielded all the juice it will afford3 this last is the safer and better mode for jellies of delicate colour4 ,footnote #aff3 ,the fruit steams perfectly in this1 if the cover be placed over4 ,,to ,,weigh ,,the ,,juice ,,of ,,fruit4 ,put a basin into one scale1 and its weight into the other2 add to this last the weight which is required of the juice1 and pour into the basin as much as will balance the scales4 ,it is always better to weigh than to measure the juice for preserving1 as it can generally be done with more exactness4 ,,rhubarb ,,jam4 ,the stalks of the rhubarb 7or spring-fruit1 as it is called7 should be taken for this preserve1 which is a very good and useful one1 while they are fresh and young4 ,wipe them very clean1 pare them quickly1 weigh1 and cut them into half-inch lengths2 to every pound add an equal weight of good sugar in fine powder2 mix them well together1 let them remain for ten minutes or a quarter of an hour to draw out the juice a little1 then turn them into a preserving-pan1 let them heat rather slowly1 but as soon as the stalks are tender boil the preserve rapidly1 stirring it well for about half an hour4 ,it will be of excellent flavour1 and will serve admirably for tarts4 ,a somewhat cheaper mode of making the jam is to stew it until tender in its own juices1 and then to boil it rapidly until it is tolerably dry1 to add to it only half its weight of sugar1 and to give it from twenty to thirty minutes boiling4 ,spring fruit 7rhubarb71 #d lbs42 sugar1 #d lbs43 heated slowly1 and when tender1 boiled quickly1 #cj minutes4 ,,green ,,gooseberry ,,jelly4 ,wash some freshly gathered gooseberries very clean2 after having taken off the tops and stalks1 then to each pound pour three-quarters of a pint of spring water1 and simmer them until they are well broken2 turn the whole into a jelly-bag or cloth1 and let all the juice drain through2 weigh and boil it rapidly for fifteen minutes4 ,draw it from the fire1 and stir in it until entirely dissolved1 an equal weight of good sugar reduced to powder2 boil the jelly from fifteen to twenty minutes longer1 or until it jellies strongly on the spoon or skimmer2 clear it perfectly from scum1 and pour it into small jars1 moulds1 or glasses4 ,it ought to be very pale and transparent4 ,the sugar may be added to the juice at first1 and the preserve boiled from twenty-five to thirty-five minutes1 but the colour will not then be so good4 ,when the fruit abounds1 the juice may be drawn from it with very little water1 as directed for apples1 page #ebc1 when it will require much less boiling4 ,gooseberries1 #f lbs42 water1 #d pints3 #bj to #cj minutes4 ,juice boiled quickly1 #ae minutes2 to each pound1 #a pound sugar3 #ae to #bj minutes4 ,,green ,,gooseberry ,,jam4 7,firm and of good colour47 ,cut the stalks and tops from the fruit1 weigh and bruise it slightly1 boil it for six or seven minutes1 keeping it well turned during the time1 then to every three pounds of gooseberries add two and a half of sugar beaten to powder1 and boil the preserve quickly for three-quarters of an hour4 ,it must be constantly stirred1 and carefully cleared from scum4 ,this makes a fine1 firm1 and refreshing preserve if the fruit be rubbed through a sieve before the sugar is added4 ,if well reduced afterwards1 it may be converted into a gteau1 or gooseberry-solid1 with three pounds of sugar1 or even a smaller proportion4 ,the preceding jam will often turn in perfect form from the moulds or jars which contain it2 and if freed from the seeds1 would be very excellent3 it is extremely good even made as above4 ,for all preserves1 the reduction1 or boiling down to a certain consistence1 should take place principally before the sugar is mingled with them2 and this has the best effect when added to the fruit and dissolved in it by degrees4 ,green gooseberries1 #f lbs43 #f to #g minutes4 ,sugar1 #e lbs42 #c_/d hour4 ,,to ,,dry ,,green ,,gooseberries4 ,take the finest green gooseberries1 fully grown1 and freshly gathered2 cut off the buds1 split them across the tops half way down1 and with the small end of a tea or of an egg spoon1 scoop out the seeds4 ,boil together for fifteen minutes a pound and a half of the finest sugar1 and a pint of water2 skim this syrup thoroughly and throw into it a pound of the seeded gooseberries2 simmer them from five to seven minutes1 when they ought to be clear and tender2 when they are so1 lift them out1 and throw as many more into the syrup2 drain them a little when done1 spread them singly on dishes1 and dry them very gradually in a quite cool stove or oven1 or in a sunny window4 ,they will keep well in the syrup1 and may be potted in it1 and dried when wanted for use4 ,green gooseberries without seeds1 #b lbs42 water1 #a pint2 sugar1 #a-a_/b lb43 boiled1 #ae minutes4 ,gooseberries simmered1 #e to #g minutes4 ,,green ,,gooseberries ,,for ,,tarts4 ,fill very clean1 dry1 wide-necked bottles with gooseberries gathered the same day1 and before they have attained their full growth4 ,cork them lightly1 wrap a little hay round each of them1 and set them up to their necks in a copper of cold water which should be brought very gradually to boil4 ,let the fruit be gently simmered until it appears shrunken and perfectly scalded2 then take out the bottles1 and with the contents of one or two fill up the remainder1 and use great care not to break the fruit in doing this4 ,when all are ready pour scalding water into the bottles and cover the gooseberries entirely with it1 or they will become mouldy at the top4 ,cork the bottles well immediately1 and cover the necks with melted resin2 keep them in a cool place2 and when the gooseberries are used pour off the greater part of the water1 and add sugar as for the fresh fruit1 of which they will have the flavour and appearance2 and they will be found more wholesome prepared in this manner than if simply baked or steamed in the bottles4 ,,red ,,gooseberry ,,jam4 ,the small rough red gooseberry1 when fully ripe1 is the best for this preserve1 which may1 however1 be made of the larger kinds4 ,when the tops and stalks have been taken carefully from the fruit1 weigh1 and boil it quickly for three-quarters of an hour1 keeping it well stirred2 then for six pounds of the gooseberries1 add two and a half of good roughly-powdered sugar2 boil these together briskly1 from twenty to twenty-five minutes and stir the jam well from the bottom of the pan1 as it is liable to burn if this be neglected4 ,small red gooseberries1 #f lbs43 #c_/d hour4 ,pounded sugar1 #b-a_/b lbs43 #bj to #be minutes4 ,,very ,,fine ,,gooseberry ,,jam4 ,seed the fruit1 which for this jam may be of the larger kind of rough red gooseberry3 those which are smooth skinned are generally of far inferior flavour4 ,add the pulp which has been scooped from the prepared fruit to some whole gooseberries1 and stir them over a moderate fire for some minutes to extract the juice2 strain and weigh this2 pour two pounds of it to four of the seeded gooseberries1 boil them rather gently for twenty-five minutes1 add fourteen ounces of good pounded sugar to each pound of fruit and juice1 and when it is dissolved boil the preserve from twelve to fifteen minutes longer1 and skim it well during the time4 ,seeded gooseberries1 #d lbs42 juice of gooseberries1 #b lbs43 #be minutes4 ,sugar1 #e-a_/d lbs4 7or #ad oz4 to each pound of fruit and juice73 #ab to #ae minutes4 ,,jelly ,,of ,,ripe ,,gooseberries4 7,excellent47 ,take the tops and stalks from a gallon or more of any kind of well-flavoured ripe red gooseberries1 and keep them stirred gently over a clear fire until they have yielded all their juice1 which should then be poured off without pressing the fruit1 and passed first through a fine sieve1 and afterwards through a double muslin-strainer1 or a jelly-bag4 ,next weigh it1 and to every three pounds add one of white currant juice1 which has previously been prepared in the same way2 boil these quickly for a quarter of an hour1 then draw them from the fire and stir to them half their weight of good sugar2 when this is dissolved1 boil the jelly for six minutes longer1 skim it thoroughly1 and pour it into jars or moulds4 ,if a very large quantity be made1 a few minutes of additional boiling must be given to it before the sugar is added4 ,juice of red gooseberries1 #c lbs42 juice of white currants1 #a lb43 #ae minutes4 ,sugar1 #b lbs43 #f minutes4 ,obs4--,the same proportion of red currant juice1 mixed with that of the gooseberries1 makes an exceedingly nice jelly4 ,,unmixed ,,gooseberry ,,jelly4 ,boil rapidly for ten minutes four pounds of the juice of red gooseberries1 prepared as in the preceding receipt2 take it from the fire1 and stir in it until dissolved three pounds of sugar beaten to powder2 boil it again for five minutes1 keeping it constantly stirred and thoroughly skimmed4 ,juice of red gooseberries1 #d lbs43 #aj minutes4 ,sugar1 #c lbs43 #e minutes4 ,,gooseberry ,,paste4 ,press through a sieve the gooseberries from which the juice has been taken for jelly1 without having been drained very closely from them2 weigh and then boil the pulp for upwards of an hour and a quarter1 or until it forms a dry paste in the pan2 stir to it1 off the fire1 six ounces of good pounded sugar for each pound of the fruit1 and when this is nearly dissolved boil the preserve from twenty to twenty-five minutes1 keeping it stirred without cessation1 as it will be liable to burn should this be neglected4 ,put it into moulds1 or shallow pans1 and turn it out when wanted for table4 ,pulp of gooseberries1 #d lbs43 #a-a_/d to #a-c_/d hour4 ,sugar1 #a-a_/b lb43 #bj to #be minutes4 ,,to ,,dry ,,ripe ,,gooseberries ,,with ,,sugar4 ,cut the tops1 but not the stalks1 from some ripe gooseberries of the largest size1 either red or green ones1 and after having taken out the seeds as directed for unripe gooseberries1 boil the fruit until clear and tender1 in syrup made with a pound of sugar to the pint of water1 boiled until rather thick4 ,seeded gooseberries1 #b lbs42 sugar1 #a-a_/b lb42 water1 #a pint3 boiled to syrup4 ,gooseberries1 simmered #h to #ab minutes1 or more4 ,obs4--,large ripe gooseberries freed from the blossoms1 and put into cold syrup in which cherries or any other fruit has been boiled for drying1 then heated very gradually1 and kept at the point of boiling for a few minutes before they are set by for a couple of days1 answer extremely well as a dry preserve4 ,on the third day the syrup should be drained from them1 simmered1 skimmed1 and poured on them the instant it is taken from the fire2 in forty-eight hours after1 they may be drained from it and laid singly upon plates or dishes1 and placed in a gentle stove4 ,,jam ,,of ,,kentish ,,or ,,flemish ,,cherries4 ,this is a very agreeable preserve when it is made as we shall direct2 but if long boiled with a large proportion of sugar1 as it frequently is1 both the bright colour and the pleasant flavour of the cherries will be destroyed4 ,stone1 and then weigh the fruit2 heat it rather slowly that the juice may be well drawn out before it begins to boil1 and stew the cherries until they are tolerably tender1 then boil them quickly1 keeping them well turned and stirred from the bottom of the pan1 for three-quarters of an hour or somewhat longer should there still remain a large quantity of juice4 ,draw the pan from the fire1 and stir in gradually half a pound of sugar for each pound of cherries4 ,an ounce or two more may occasionally be required when the fruit is more than usually acid1 and also when a quite sweet preserve is liked4 ,when the sugar is dissolved continue the boiling rapidly for about twenty minutes longer2 clear off all the scum as it appears1 and keep the jam stirred well and constantly1 but not quickly1 to prevent its adhering to the bottom of the preserving-pan4 ,stoned ,kentish or ,flemish cherries1 #f lbs43 without sugar1 #a hour or rather more4 ,sugar roughly powdered1 #c lbs43 7or #c-a_/b lbs47 ,about #bj minutes quick boiling4 ,obs4--,heat the fruit and boil it gently until it is quite tender1 turning it often1 and pressing it down into the juice2 then quicken the boiling to evaporate the juice before the sugar is added4 ,cherries which are bruised will not make good preserve3 they always remain tough4 ,,to ,,dry ,,cherries ,,with ,,sugar4 7,a quick and easy method47 ,stone some fine1 sound1 ,kentish or ,flemish cherries2 put them into a preserving-pan1 with six ounces of sugar reduced to powder1 to each pound of the fruit2 set them over a moderate fire1 and simmer them gently for nearly or quite twenty minutes2 let them remain in the syrup until they are a little cooled1 then turn them into a sieve1 and before they are cold lay them singly on dishes1 and dry them very gradually1 as directed for other fruits4 ,when the cherries are quite ripe the stones may generally be drawn out with the stalks1 by pressing the fruit gently at the same time2 but when this method fails1 they must be extracted with a new quill1 cut round at the end3 those of the very short-stalked1 turnip-shaped cherry1 which abounds1 and is remarkably fine in many parts of ,normandy1 and which we have occasionally met with here1 though it is not1 we believe1 very abundant in our markets1 are easily removed with a large pin1 on the point of which the stone may be caught at the stalk end1 just opposite the seam of the fruit1 and drawn out at the top1 leaving the cherry apparently entire4 ,,dried ,,cherries4 7,superior ,receipt47 ,to each pound of cherries weighed after they are stoned1 add eight ounces of good sugar1 and boil them very softly for ten minutes3 pour them into a large bowl or pan1 and leave them for two days in the syrup2 then simmer them again for ten minutes1 and set them by in it for two or three days2 drain them slightly1 and dry them very slowly1 as directed in the previous receipts4 ,keep them in jars or tin canisters1 when done4 ,these cherries are generally preferred to such as are dried with a larger proportion of sugar2 but when the taste is in favour of the latter1 from twelve to sixteen ounces can be allowed to the pound of fruit1 which may then be potted in the syrup and dried at any time2 though we think the flavour of the cherries is better preserved when this is done within a fortnight of their being boiled4 ,cherries1 stoned1 #h lbs42 sugar1 #d lbs43 #aj minutes4 ,left two or three days4 ,boiled again1 #aj minutes2 left two days2 drained and dried4 ,,cherries ,,dried ,,without ,,sugar4 ,these are often more pleasant and refreshing to invalids and travellers than a sweetened confection of the fruit1 their flavour and agreeable acidity being well preserved when they are simply spread on dishes or hamper-lids1 and slowly dried4#afg ,throw aside the bruised and decayed fruit1 and arrange the remainder singly1 and with the stalks uppermost on the dishes4 ,the ,kentish cherries are best for the purpose1 but morellas also answer for it excellently4 ,the former are sometimes stoned1 and simmered until quite tender in their own juice1 before they are dried2 but this is scarcely an improvement on the more usual method of leaving them entire4 ,footnote #afg3 ,the dishes on which they are laid should be changed daily4 ,,to ,,dry ,,morella ,,cherries4 ,take off the stalks but do not stone the fruit2 weigh and add to it an equal quantity of the best sugar reduced quite to powder1 strew it over the cherries and let them stand for half an hour2 then turn them gently into a preserving-pan1 and simmer them softly from five to seven minutes4 ,drain them from the syrup1 and dry them like the ,kentish cherries4 ,they make a very fine confection4 ,,common ,,cherry ,,cheese4 ,stone the fruit1 or if this trouble be objected to1 bruise and boil it without1 until it is sufficiently tender to press through a sieve1 which it will be in from twenty to thirty minutes4 ,weigh the pulp in this case1 and boil it quickly to a dry paste1 then stir to it six ounces of sugar for the pound of fruit1 and when this is dissolved1 place the pan again over1 but not upon1 a brisk fire1 and stir the preserve without ceasing1 until it is so dry as not to adhere to the finger when touched2 then press it immediately into small moulds or pans1 and turn it from them when wanted for table4 ,when the cherries have been stoned1 a good common preserve may be made of them without passing them through a sieve1 with the addition of five ounces of sugar to the pound of fruit1 which must be boiled very dry both before and after it is added4 ,kentish or ,flemish cherries without stoning3 #bj to #cj minutes4 ,passed through a sieve4 ,to each pound of pulp 7first boiled dry71 #f oz4 sugar4 ,to each pound of cherries stoned and boiled to a dry paste1 #e oz4 sugar4 ,,cherry ,,paste4 7,,french47 ,stone the cherries2 boil them gently in their own juice for thirty minutes2 press the whole through a sieve2 reduce it to a very dry paste2 then take it from the fire1 and weigh it2 boil an equal proportion of sugar to the candying point2 mix the fruit with it2 and stir the paste1 without intermission1 over a moderate fire1 until it is again so dry as to form a ball round the spoon1 and to quit the preserving-pan entirely2 press it quickly into small moulds1 and when it is cold1 paper1 and store it like other preserves4 ,,strawberry ,,jam4 ,strip the stalks from some fine scarlet strawberries1 weigh1 and boil them for thirty-five minutes1 keeping them very constantly stirred2 throw in eight ounces of good sugar1 beaten small1 to the pound of fruit2 mix them well off the fire1 then boil the preserve again quickly for twenty-five minutes4 ,strawberries1 #f lbs43 #ce minutes4 ,sugar1 #c lbs43 #be minutes4 ,obs4--,we do not think it needful to give directions with each separate receipt for skimming the preserve with care1 and keeping it constantly stirred1 but neither should in any case be neglected4 ,,strawberry-,,jelly4 ,a very ,superior ,preserve4 7,new ,receipt47 ,the original directions for this delicious jelly1 published in the earlier editions of this work1 were the result of perfectly successful trials made in the summer of their insertion2 but1 after much additional experience1 we find that the receipt may be better adapted to our varying seasons1 which so much affect the quality of our fruit1 and rendered more certain in its results by some alterations2 we therefore give it anew1 recommending it strongly for trial1 especially to such of our readers as can command from their own gardens ample supplies of strawberries in their best and freshest state4 ,like all fruit intended for preserving1 they should be gathered in dry weather1 after the morning dew has quite passed off them1 and be used the same day4 ,strip away the stalks1 and put the strawberries into an enamelled stewpan if at hand1 and place it very high over a clear fire1 that the juice may be drawn from them gently2 turn them over with a silver or wooden spoon from time to time1 and when the juice has flowed from them abundantly1 let them simmer until they shrink1 but be sure to take them from the fire before the juice becomes thick or pulpy from over-boiling4 ,thirty minutes1 or sometimes even longer1 over a very slow fire1 will not be too much to extract it from them4 ,turn them into a new1 well-scalded1 but dry sieve over a clean pan1 and let them remain until the juice ceases to drop from them2 strain it then through a muslin strainer1 weigh it in a basin1 of which the weight must first be taken1 and boil it quickly in a clean preserving-pan from fifteen to twenty minutes1 and stir it often during the time3 then take it from the fire1 and throw in by degrees1 for every pound of juice1 fourteen ounces of the best sugar coarsely pounded1 stirring each portion until it is dissolved4 ,place the pan again over the fire1 and boil the jelly--still quickly--for about a quarter of an hour4 ,occasionally it may need a rather longer time than this1 and sometimes less3 the exact degree can only be ascertained by a little experience1 in consequence of the juice of some varieties of the fruit being so much thinner than that of others4 ,the preserve should jelly strongly on the skimmer1 and fall in a mass from it before it is poured out2 but if boiled beyond this point it will be spoiled4 ,if made with richly-flavoured strawberries1 and carefully managed1 it will be very brilliant in colour1 and in flavour really equal if not superior to guava jelly2 while it will retain all the delicious odour of the fruit4 ,no skimmer or other utensil of tin should be used in making it2 and an enamelled preserving-pan is preferable to any other for all red fruit4 ,it becomes very firm often after it is stored1 when it appears scarcely set in the first instance2 it is1 however1 desirable that it should jelly at once4 ,fruit kept hot to draw out the juice1 #a_/b hour or longer4 ,boiled quickly without sugar1 #ae to #bj minutes4 ,to each pound #ad oz4 of sugar3 #ab to #ae minutes4 ,,to ,,preserve ,,strawberries ,,or ,,raspberries1 ,,for ,,creams ,,or ,,ices1 ,,without ,,boiling4 ,let the fruit be gathered in the middle of a warm day1 in very dry weather2 strip it from the stalks directly1 weigh it1 bruise it slightly1 turn it into a bowl or deep pan1 and mix with it an equal weight of fine dry sifted sugar1 and put immediately into small1 wide-necked bottles2 cork these firmly without delay1 and tie bladder over the tops4 ,keep them in a cool place1 or the fruit will ferment4 ,the mixture should be stirred softly1 and only just sufficiently to blend the sugar and the fruit4 ,the bottles must be perfectly dry1 and the bladders1 after having been cleaned in the usual way1 and allowed to become nearly so1 should be moistened with a little spirit on the side which is to be next to the cork4 ,unless these precautions be observed1 there will be some danger of the whole being spoiled4 ,equal weight of fruit and sugar4 ,,raspberry ,,jam4 ,this is a very favourite ,english preserve1 and one of the most easily made that can be4 ,the fruit for it should be ripe and perfectly sound2 and as it soon decays or becomes mouldy after it is gathered1 it should be fresh from the bushes when it is used4 ,that which grows in the shade has less flavour than the fruit which receives the full warmth of the sun4 ,excellent jam for common family use may be made as follows3-- ,bruise gently with the back of a wooden spoon1 six pounds of ripe and freshly-gathered raspberries1 and boil them over a brisk fire for twenty-five minutes2 stir to them half their weight of good sugar1 roughly powdered1 and when it is dissolved1 boil the preserve quickly for ten minutes1 keeping it well stirred and skimmed4 ,raspberries1 #f lbs43 #be minutes4 ,sugar1 #c lbs43 #aj minutes4 ,,very ,,rich ,,raspberry ,,jam ,,or ,,marmalade4 ,no4 #a4--,weigh the finest fruit that can be procured1 and bruise it with the back of a wooden spoon after it is put into the preserving-pan4 ,boil it gently1 keeping it well turned1 for about five minutes1 then stir to it gradually nearly or quite its weight of dry pounded sugar1 and continue the boiling rather rapidly for a quarter of an hour or twenty minutes1 and be careful to remove all the scum as it rises4 ,the preserve will be clear1 smooth1 and very thick when it is sufficiently boiled1 and should then be taken from the pan without delay1 as it will very quickly set4 ,no4 #b4--;,draw gently from the smallest of the raspberries from half to a whole pound of juice1 and boil down in this three pounds of the fruit1 after it has been crushed with a spoon as usual4 ,in ten minutes1 if the fruit be quite ripe1 the sugar may be added4 ,three pounds to four of the raspberries and their juice1 will make a quite sweet preserve4 ,it should be gradually stirred in until dissolved1 and not be allowed to boil during the time4 ,ten or fifteen minutes will then suffice generally to bring it to the proper degree for jellying firmly4 ,no4 #a4--;,fine raspberries3 #e minutes4 ,sugar1 nearly or quite equal weight3 #ae to #bj minutes4 ,no4 #b4--,raspberry-juice1 #a lb42 ripe raspberries1 #c lbs4 7or #d73 #aj minutes4 ,to each pound of fruit and juice1 sugar #c_/d lb43 #aj to #ae minutes4 ,obs4--,all fruit jams are much improved by the addition of a certain portion of juice to the fruit which is boiled down2 they then partake more of the nature of jelly4 ,,good ,,red ,,or ,,white ,,raspberry ,,jam4 ,boil quickly1 for twenty minutes1 four pounds of either red or white sound ripe raspberries in a pound and a half of currant-juice of the same colour2 take the pan from the fire1 stir in three pounds of sugar1 and when it is dissolved1 place the pan again over the fire1 and continue the boiling for ten minutes longer3 keep the preserve well skimmed and stirred from the beginning4 ,raspberries1 #d lbs42 currant-juice1 #a-a_/b lb43 #bj minutes4 ,sugar1 #c lbs43 #aj minutes4 ,,raspberry ,,jelly ,,for ,,flavouring ,,creams4 ,take the stalks from some quite ripe and freshly-gathered raspberries1 stir them over the fire until they render their juice freely1 then strain and weigh it2 or press it from them through a cloth1 and then strain it clear2 in either case boil it for five minutes after it is weighed1 and for each pound stir in a pound and a quarter of good sugar reduced quite to powder1 sifted1 and made very hot2 boil the preserve quickly for five minutes longer1 and skim it clean4 ,the jelly thus made will sufficiently sweeten the creams without any additional sugar4 ,juice of raspberries1 #d lbs43 #e minutes4 ,sugar1 made hot1 #e lbs43 #e minutes4 ,,another ,,raspberry ,,jelly4 7,very ,good47 ,bruise the fruit a little1 and place it high above a clear fire1 that the juice may be gently drawn from it3 it may remain thus for twenty minutes or longer without boiling1 and be simmered for four or five2 strain and weigh it2 boil it quickly for twenty minutes1 draw it from the fire1 add three-quarters of a pound of good sugar for each pound of juice1 and when this is dissolved place the pan again on the fire1 and boil the preserve fast from twelve to fifteen minutes longer2 skim it thoroughly1 and keep it well stirred3 the preserve will then require rather less boiling4 ,when it jellies in falling from the spoon or skimmer1 it is done4 ,nothing of tin or iron should be used in making it1 as these metals will convert its fine red colour into a dull purple4 ,fruit1 simmered #e to #f minutes4 ,juice of raspberries1 #d lbs43 #bj minutes4 ,sugar1 #c lbs43 #ab to #ae minutes4 ,or3 juice of raspberries1 #d lbs42 juice of white currants1 #b lbs43 #bj minutes4 ,sugar1 #d-a_/b lbs43 #aj minutes1 or less4 ,,red ,,currant ,,jelly4 ,with three parts of fine ripe red currants freshly gathered1 and stripped from the stalks1 mix one of white currants2 put them into a clean preserving-pan1 and stir them gently over a clear fire until the juice flows from them freely2 then turn them into a fine hair-sieve1 and let them drain well1 but without pressure4 ,pass the juice through a folded muslin or a jelly-bag2 weigh it1 and then boil it fast for a quarter of an hour2 add for each pound1 eight ounces of sugar coarsely powdered1 stir this to it off the fire until it is dissolved1 give the jelly eight minutes more of quick boiling1 and pour it out4 ,it will be firm1 and of excellent colour and flavour4 ,be sure to clear off the scum as it rises1 both before and after the sugar is put in1 or the preserve will not be clear4 ,juice of red currants1 #c lbs42 juice of white currants1 #a lb43 #ae minutes4 ,sugar1 #b lbs43 #h minutes4 ,obs4--,an excellent jelly may be made with equal parts of the juice of red and of white currants1 and of raspberries1 with the same proportion of sugar and degree of boiling as in the foregoing receipt4 ,,superlative ,,red ,,currant ,,jelly4 7,norman ,receipt47 ,strip carefully from the stems some quite ripe currants of the finest quality1 and mix with them an equal weight of good sugar reduced to powder2 boil these together quickly for exactly eight minutes1 keep them stirred all the time1 and clear off the scum--which will be very abundant--as it rises2 then turn the preserve into a very clean sieve1 and put into small jars the jelly which runs through it1 and which will be delicious in flavour1 and of the brightest colour4 ,it should be carried immediately1 when this is practicable1 to an extremely cool but not a damp place1 and left there until perfectly cold4 ,the currants which remain in the sieve make an excellent jam1 particularly if only part of the jelly be taken from them4 ,in ,normandy where the fruit is of richer quality than in ,england1 this preserve is boiled only two minutes1 and is both firm and beautifully transparent4 ,currants1 #c lbs42 sugar1 #c lbs43 #h minutes4 ,obs4--,this receipt we are told by some of our correspondents is not generally quite successful in this country1 as the jelly1 though it keeps well and is of the finest possible flavour1 is scarcely firm enough for table4 ,we have ourselves found this to be the case in cold damp seasons2 but the preserve even then was valuable for many purposes1 and always agreeable eating4 ,,french ,,currant ,,jelly4 ,mix one-third of white currants with two of red1 and stir them over a gentle fire until they render their juice freely2 pour it from them1 strain and weigh it2 for every four pounds break three of fine sugar into large lumps1 just dip them into cold water1 and when they are nearly dissolved boil them to a thick syrup2 stir this without ceasing until it falls in large thick white masses from the skimmer2 then pour in the currant juice immediately1 and when the sugar is again dissolved1 boil the whole quickly for five minutes1 clear off the scum perfectly1 pour the jelly into jars or warm glasses1 and set it in a cool place4 ,red currants1 two-thirds2 white currants1 one-third2 juice1 #d lbs42 sugar boiled to candy height1 #c lbs43 jelly boiled1 #e minutes4 ,obs4--,a flavouring of raspberries is usually given to currant jelly in ,france1 the preserve being there never served with any kind of joint1 as it is with us4 ,,delicious ,,red ,,currant ,,jam4 ,this1 which is but an indifferent preserve when made in the usual way1 will be found a very fine one if the following directions for it be observed2 it will be extremely transparent and bright in colour1 and will retain perfectly the flavour of the fruit4 ,take the currants at the height of their season1 the finest that can be had1 free from dust1 but gathered on a dry day2 strip them with great care from the stalks1 weigh and put them into a preserving-pan with three pounds of the best sugar reduced to powder1 to four pounds of the fruit3 stir them gently over a brisk clear fire1 and boil them quickly for exactly eight minutes from the first full boil4 ,as the jam is apt to rise over the top of the pan1 it is better not to fill it more than two-thirds1 and if this precaution should not be sufficient to prevent it1 it must be lifted from the fire and held away for an instant4 ,to many tastes1 a still finer jam than this 7which we find sufficiently sweet7 may be made with an equal weight of fruit and sugar boiled together for seven minutes4 ,there should be great exactness with respect to the time1 as both the flavour and the brilliant colour of the preserve will be injured by longer boiling4 ,red currants 7without stalks71 #d lbs42 fine sugar1 #c lbs43 boiled quickly1 #h minutes4 ,or1 equal weight fruit and sugar3 #g minutes4 ,,very ,,fine ,,white ,,currant ,,jelly4 ,the fruit for this jelly should be very white1 perfectly free from dust1 and picked carefully from the stalks4 ,to every pound add eighteen ounces of double refined sifted sugar1 and boil them together quickly for eight minutes2 pour it into a delicately clean sieve1 and finish it by the directions given for the ,norman red currant jelly 7page #eei74 ,white currants1 #f lbs42 highly refined sugar1 #f-c_/d lbs43 #f minutes4 ,,white ,,currant ,,jam1 ,a ,,beautiful ,,preserve4 ,boil together quickly for seven minutes an equal weight of fine white currants1 stalked with the greatest nicety1 and of the best sugar pounded and passed through a sieve4 ,stir the preserve gently the whole time1 and be careful to skim it thoroughly4 ,white currants1 #d lbs42 best sugar1 #d lbs43 #g minutes4 ,,currant ,,paste4 ,stalk and heat some red currants as for jelly1 pour off three parts of the juice1 which can be used for that preserve1 and press the remainder1 with the pulp of the fruit1 closely through a hair sieve reversed2 boil it briskly1 keeping it stirred the whole time1 until it forms a dry paste2 then for each pound 7when first weighed7 add seven ounces of pounded sugar1 and boil the whole from twenty-five to thirty minutes longer1 taking care that it shall not burn4 ,this paste is remarkably pleasant and refreshing in cases of fever1 and acceptable often for winter-desserts4 ,red currants boiled from #e to #g minutes1 pressed with one-fourth of their juice through a sieve1 boiled from #a-a_/b to #b hour4 ,to each pound #g oz4 pounded sugar3 #be to #cj minutes4 ,obs4--,confectioners add the pulp1 after it is boiled dry1 to an equal weight of sugar at the candy height3 by making trial of the two methods1 the reader can decide on the better one4 ,,fine ,,black ,,currant ,,jelly4 ,stir some black currants over the fire until they have yielded their juice2 strain1 weigh1 and boil it for twenty minutes2 add to it three pounds and a half of sifted sugar of good quality1 made quite hot1 and when it is dissolved boil the jelly for five minutes only1 clearing off the scum with care4 ,this1 though an excellent preserve1 is too sweet for our own taste1 and we think one made with less sugar likely to be more acceptable in cases of indisposition generally4 ,juice of black currants1 #d lbs43 #bj minutes4 ,sugar1 #c-a_/b lbs43 #e minutes4 ,,common ,,black ,,currant ,,jelly4 ,boil from three to six pounds of the juice rapidly for twenty minutes1 stirring it well2 then mix with it off the fire1 half a pound of sugar for each pound of juice1 and continue the boiling for ten minutes4 ,juice of black currants1 #c to #f lbs43 #bj minutes4 ,to each pound juice #a_/b lb4 good sugar3 #aj minutes4 ,obs4--,this jelly may be made with ,lisbon sugar1 but will then require rather more boiling4 ,,black ,,currant ,,jam ,,and ,,marmalade4 ,no fruit jellies so easily as black currants when they are ripe2 and their juice is so rich and thick that it will bear the addition of a very small quantity of water sometimes1 without causing the preserve to mould4 ,when the currants have been very dusty1 we have occasionally had them washed and drained before they were used1 without any injurious effects4 ,jam boiled down in the usual manner with this fruit is often very dry4 ,it may be greatly improved by taking out nearly half the currants when it is ready to be potted1 pressing them well against the side of the preserving-pan to extract the juice3 this leaves the remainder far more liquid and refreshing than when the skins are all retained4 ,another mode of making fine black currant jam--as well as that of any other fruit--is to add one pound at least of juice1 extracted as for jelly1 to two pounds of the berries1 and to allow sugar for it in the same proportion as directed for each pound of them4 ,for marmalade or paste1 which is most useful in affections of the throat and chest1 the currants must be stewed tender in their own juice1 and then rubbed through a sieve4 ,after ten minutes' boiling1 sugar in fine powder must be stirred gradually to the pulp1 off the fire1 until it is dissolved3 a few minutes more of boiling will then suffice to render the preserve thick1 and it will become quite firm when cold4 ,more or less sugar can be added to the taste1 but it is not generally liked very sweet4 ,best black currant jam4--,currants1 #d lbs42 juice of currants1 #b lbs43 #ae to #bj minutes' gentle boiling4 ,sugar1 #c to #d lbs43 #aj minutes4 ,marmalade1 or paste of black currants4--,fruit1 #d lbs43 stewed in its own juice #ae minutes1 or until quite soft4 ,pulp boiled #aj minutes4 ,sugar1 from #g to #i oz4 to the lb43 #aj to #ad minutes4 ,obs4--,the following are the receipts originally inserted in this work1 and which we leave unaltered4 ,to six pounds of the fruit1 stripped carefully from the stalks1 add four pounds and a half of sugar4 ,let them heat gently1 but as soon as the sugar is dissolved boil the preserve rapidly for fifteen minutes4 ,a more common kind of jam may be made by boiling the fruit by itself from ten to fifteen minutes1 and for ten minutes after half its weight of sugar has been added to it4 ,black currants1 #f lbs42 sugar1 #d-a_/b lbs43 #ae minutes4 ,or3 fruit1 #f lbs43 #aj to #ae minutes4 ,sugar1 #c lbs43 #aj minutes4 ,obs4--,there are few preparations of fruit so refreshing and so useful in illness as those of black currants1 and it is therefore advisable always to have a store of them1 and to have them well and carefully made4 ,,nursery ,,preserve4 ,take the stones from a couple of pounds of ,kentish cherries1 and boil them twenty minutes2 then add to them a pound and a half of raspberries1 and an equal quantity of red and of white currants1 all weighed after they have been cleared from their stems4 ,boil these together quickly for twenty minutes2 mix with them three pounds and a quarter of common sugar1 and give the preserve fifteen minutes more of quick boiling4 ,a pound and a half of gooseberries may be substituted for the cherries2 but they will not require any stewing before they are added to the other fruits4 ,the jam must be well stirred from the beginning1 or it will burn to the pan4 ,kentish cherries1 #b lbs43 #bj minutes4 ,raspberries1 red currants1 and white currants1 of each #a-a_/b lb43 #bj minutes4 ,sugar1 #c-a_/d lbs43 #ae minutes4 ,,another ,,good ,,common ,,preserve4 ,boil together1 in equal or unequal portions 7for this is immaterial71 any kinds of early fruit1 until they can be pressed through a sieve2 weigh1 and then boil the pulp over a brisk fire for half an hour2 add half a pound of sugar for each pound of fruit1 and again boil the preserve quickly1 keeping it well stirred and skimmed1 from fifteen to twenty minutes4 ,cherries1 unless they be morellas1 must first be stewed tender apart1 as they will require a much longer time to make them so than any other of the first summer fruits4 ,a ,,good ,m,,lange1 ,,or ,,mixed ,,preserve4 ,boil for three-quarters of an hour in two pounds of clear red gooseberry juice1 one pound of very ripe greengages1 weighed after they have been pared and stoned2 then stir to them one pound and a half of good sugar1 and boil them quickly again for twenty minutes4 ,if the quantity of preserve be much increased1 the time of boiling it must be so likewise3 this is always better done before the sugar is added4 ,juice of ripe gooseberries1 #b lbs42 greengages1 pared and stoned1 #a lb43 #c_/d hour4 ,sugar1 #a-a_/b lb43 #bj minutes4 ,,groseill,e4 7,another good preserve47 ,cut the tops and stalks from a gallon or more of well-flavoured ripe gooseberries1 throw them into a large preserving-pan1 boil them for ten minutes1 and stir them often with a wooden spoon2 then pass both the juice and pulp through a fine sieve1 and to every three pounds' weight of these add half a pint of raspberry-juice1 and boil the whole briskly for three-quarters of an hour2 draw the pan aside1 stir in for the above portion of fruit1 two pounds of sugar1 and when it is dissolved renew the boiling for fifteen minutes longer4 ,ripe gooseberries1 boiled #aj minutes4 ,pulp and juice of gooseberries1 #f lbs42 raspberry-juice1 #a pint3 #c_/d hour4 ,sugar1 #d lbs43 #ae minutes4 ,obs4--,when more convenient1 a portion of raspberries can be boiled with the gooseberries at first4 ,,superior ,,pine-,,apple ,,marmalade4 7,a ,new ,receipt47 ,the market-price of our ,english pines is generally too high to permit their being very commonly used for preserve2 and though some of those imported from the ,west ,indies are sufficiently well-flavoured to make excellent jam1 they must be selected with judgment for the purpose1 or they will possibly not answer for it4 ,they should be fully ripe1 but perfectly sound3 should the stalk end appear mouldy or discoloured1 the fruit should be rejected4 ,the degree of flavour which it possesses may be ascertained with tolerable accuracy by its odour2 for if of good quality1 and fit for use1 it will be very fragrant4 ,after the rinds have been pared off1 and every dark speck taken from the flesh1 the pines may be rasped on a fine and delicately clean grater1 or sliced thin1 cut up quickly into dice1 and pounded in a stone or marble mortar2 or a portion may be grated1 and the remainder reduced to pulp in the mortar4 ,weigh1 and then heat and boil it gently for ten minutes2 draw it from the fire1 and stir to it by degrees fourteen ounces of sugar to the pound of fruit2 boil it until it thickens and becomes very transparent1 which it will be in about fifteen minutes1 should the quantity be small3 it will require a rather longer time if it be large4 ,the sugar ought to be of the best quality and beaten quite to powder2 and for this1 as well as for every other kind of preserve1 it should be dry4 ,a remarkably fine marmalade may be compounded of ,english pines only1 or even with one ,english pine of superior growth1 and two or three of the ,west ,indian mixed with it2 but all when used should be fully ripe1 without at all verging on decay2 for in no other state will their delicious flavour be in its perfection4 ,in making the jam always avoid placing the preserving-pan flat upon the fire1 as this of itself will often convert what would otherwise be excellent preserve1 into a strange sort of compound1 for which it is difficult to find a name1 and which results from the sugar being subjected--when in combination with the acid of the fruit--to a degree of heat which converts it into caramel or highly-boiled barley-sugar4 ,when there is no regular preserving-stove1 a flat trivet should be securely placed across the fire of the kitchen-range to raise the pan from immediate contact with the burning coals1 or charcoal4 ,it is better to grate down1 than to pound the fruit for the present receipt should any parts of it be ever so slightly tough2 and it should then be slowly stewed until quite tender before any sugar is added to it2 or with only a very small quantity stirred in should it become too dry4 ,a superior marmalade even to this1 might probably be made by adding to the rasped pines a little juice drawn by a gentle heat1 or expressed cold1 from inferior portions of the fruit2 but this is only supposition4 ,a ,,fine ,,preserve ,,of ,,the ,,green ,,orange ,,plum4 7,sometimes called the ,stonewood plum47 ,this fruit1 which is very insipid when ripe1 makes an excellent preserve if used when at its full growth1 but while it is still quite hard and green4 ,take off the stalks1 weigh the plums1 then gash them well 7with a silver knife1 if convenient7 as they are thrown into the preserving-pan1 and keep them gently stirred without ceasing over a moderate fire1 until they have yielded sufficient juice to prevent their burning2 after this1 boil them quickly until the stones are entirely detached from the flesh of the fruit4 ,take them out as they appear on the surface1 and when the preserve looks quite smooth and is well reduced1 stir in three-quarters of a pound of sugar beaten to a powder1 for each pound of the plums1 and boil the whole very quickly for half an hour or more4 ,put it1 when done1 into small moulds or pans1 and it will be sufficiently firm when cold to turn out well3 it will also be transparent1 of a fine green colour1 and very agreeable in flavour4 ,orange plums1 when green1 #f lbs43 #dj to #fj minutes4 ,sugar1 #d-a_/b lbs43 #cj to #ej minutes4 ,obs4--,the blanched kernels of part of the fruit should be added to this preserve a few minutes before it is poured out3 if too long boiled in it they will become tough4 ,they should always be wiped very dry after they are blanched4 ,,greengage ,,jam1 ,,or ,,marmalade4 ,when the plums are thoroughly ripe1 take off the skins1 stone1 weigh1 and boil them quickly without sugar for fifty minutes1 keeping them well stirred2 then to every four pounds add three of good sugar reduced quite to powder1 boil the preserve from five to eight minutes longer1 and clear off the scum perfectly before it is poured into the jars4 ,when the flesh of the fruit will not separate easily from the stones1 weigh and throw the plums whole into the preserving-pan1 boil them to a pulp1 pass them through a sieve1 and deduct the weight of the stones from them when apportioning the sugar to the jam4 ,the ,orleans plum may be substituted for greengages in this receipt4 ,greengages1 stoned and skinned1 #f lbs43 #ej minutes4 ,sugar1 #d-a_/b lbs43 #e to #h minutes4 ,,preserve ,,of ,,the ,,magnum ,,bonum1 ,,or ,,mogul ,,plum4 ,prepare1 weigh1 and boil the plums for forty minutes2 stir to them half their weight of good sugar beaten fine1 and when it is dissolved continue the boiling for ten additional minutes1 and skim the preserve carefully during the time4 ,this is an excellent marmalade1 but it may be rendered richer by increasing the proportion of sugar4 ,the blanched kernels of a portion of the fruit stones will much improve its flavour1 but they should be mixed with it only two or three minutes before it is taken from the fire4 ,when the plums are not entirely ripe1 it is difficult to free them from the stones and skins3 they should then be boiled down and pressed through a sieve1 as directed for greengages1 in the receipt above4 ,mogul plums1 skinned and stoned1 #f lbs43 #dj minutes4 ,sugar1 #c lbs43 #e to #h minutes4 ,,to ,,dry ,,or ,,preserve ,,mogul ,,plums ,,in ,,syrup4 ,pare the plums1 but do not remove the stalks or stones2 take their weight of dry sifted sugar1 lay them into a deep dish or bowl1 and strew it over them2 let them remain thus for a night1 then pour them gently into a preserving-pan with all the sugar1 heat them slowly1 and let them just simmer for five minutes2 in two days repeat the process1 and do so again and again at an interval of two or three days1 until the fruit is tender and very clear2 put it then into jars1 and keep it in the syrup1 or drain and dry the plums very gradually1 as directed for other fruit4 ,when they are not sufficiently ripe for the skin to part from them readily1 they must be covered with spring water1 placed over a slow fire1 and just scalded until it can be stripped from them easily4 ,they may also be entirely prepared by the receipt for dried apricots which follows1 a page or two from this4 ,,mussel ,,plum ,,cheese ,,and ,,jelly4 ,fill large stone jars with the fruit1 which should be ripe1 dry1 and sound2 set them into an oven from which the bread has been drawn several hours1 and let them remain all night2 or1 if this cannot conveniently be done1 place them in pans of water1 and boil them gently until the plums are tender1 and have yielded their juice to the utmost4 ,pour this from them1 strain it through a jelly bag1 weigh1 and then boil it rapidly for twenty-five minutes4 ,have ready1 broken small1 three pounds of sugar for four of the juice1 stir them together until it is dissolved1 and then continue the boiling quickly for ten minutes longer1 and be careful to remove all the scum4 ,pour the preserve into small moulds or pans1 and turn it out when it is wanted for table3 it will be very fine1 both in colour and in flavour4 ,juice of plums1 #d lbs43 #be minutes4 ,sugar1 #c lbs43 #aj minutes4 ,the cheese4--,skin and stone the plums from which the juice has been poured1 and after having weighed1 boil them an hour and a quarter over a brisk fire1 and stir them constantly2 then to three pounds of fruit add one of sugar1 beaten to powder2 boil the preserve for another half hour1 and press it into shallow pans or moulds4 ,plums1 #c lbs43 #a-a_/d hour4 ,sugar1 #a lb43 #cj minutes4 ,,apricot ,,marmalade4 ,this may be made either by the receipt for greengage1 or ,mogul plum marmalade2 or the fruit may first be boiled quite tender1 then rubbed through a sieve1 and mixed with three-quarters of a pound of sugar to the pound of apricots3 from twenty to thirty minutes will boil it in this case4 ,a richer preserve still is produced by taking off the skins1 and dividing the plums in halves or quarters1 and leaving them for some hours with their weight of fine sugar strewed over them before they are placed on the fire2 they are then heated slowly and gently simmered for about half an hour4 ,,to ,,dry ,,apricots4 7,a quick and easy method47 ,wipe gently1 split1 and stone some fine apricots which are not over-ripe2 weigh1 and arrange them evenly in a deep dish or bowl1 and strew in fourteen ounces of sugar in fine powder1 to each pound of fruit2 on the following day turn the whole carefully into a preserving-pan1 let the apricots heat slowly1 and simmer them very softly for six minutes1 or for an instant longer1 should they not in that time be quite tender4 ,let them remain in the syrup for a day or two1 then drain and spread them singly on dishes to dry4 ,to each pound of apricots1 #ad oz4 of sugar2 to stand #a night1 to be simmered from #f to #h minutes1 and left in syrup #b or #c days4 ,,dried ,,apricots4 7,french ,receipt47 ,take apricots which have attained their full growth and colour1 but before they begin to soften2 weigh1 and wipe them lightly2 make a small incision across the top of each plum1 pass the point of a knife through the stalk end1 and gently push out the stones without breaking the fruit2 next1 put the apricots into a preserving-pan1 with sufficient cold water to float them easily2 place it over a moderate fire1 and when it begins to boil1 should the apricots be quite tender1 lift them out and throw them into more cold water1 but simmer them1 otherwise1 until they are so4 ,take the same weight of sugar that there was of the fruit before it was stoned1 and boil it for ten minutes with a quart of water to the four pounds2 skim the syrup carefully1 throw in the apricots 7which should previously be well drained on a soft cloth1 or on a sieve71 simmer them for one minute1 and set them by in it until the following day1 then drain it from them1 boil it for ten minutes1 and pour it on them the instant it is taken from the fire2 in forty-eight hours repeat the process1 and when the syrup has boiled ten minutes1 put in the apricots1 and simmer them from two to four minutes1 or until they look quite clear4 ,they may be stored in the syrup until wanted for drying1 or drained from it1 laid separately on slates or dishes1 and dried very gradually3 the blanched kernels may be put inside the fruit1 or added to the syrup4 ,apricots1 #d lbs41 scalded until tender2 sugar #d lbs42 water1 #a quart3 #aj minutes4 ,apricots1 in syrup1 #a minute2 left #bd hours4 ,syrup1 boiled again1 #aj minutes1 and poured on fruit3 stand #b days4 ,syrup1 boiled again1 #aj minutes1 and apricots #b to #d minutes1 or until clear4 ,obs4--,the syrup should be quite thick when the apricots are put in for the last time2 but both fruit and sugar vary so much in quality and in the degree of boiling which they require1 that no invariable rule can be given for the latter4 ,the apricot syrup strained very clear1 and mixed with twice its measure of pale ,french brandy1 makes an agreeable liqueur1 which is much improved by infusing in it for a few days half an ounce of the fruit-kernels1 blanched and bruised1 to the quart of liquor4 ,we have found that cherries prepared by either of the receipts which we have given for preserving them with sugar1 if thrown into the apricot syrup when partially dried1 just scalded in it1 and left for a fortnight1 then drained and dried as usual1 become a delicious sweetmeat4 ,mussel1 imperatrice1 or any other plums1 when quite ripe1 if simmered in it very gently until they are tender1 and left for a few days to imbibe its flavour1 then drained and finished as usual1 are likewise excellent4 ,,peach ,,jam1 ,,or ,,marmalade4 ,the fruit for this preserve1 which is a very delicious one1 should be finely flavoured1 and quite ripe1 though perfectly sound4 ,pare1 stone1 weigh1 and boil it quickly for three-quarters of an hour1 and do not fail to stir it often during the time2 draw it from the fire1 and mix with it ten ounces of well-refined sugar1 rolled or beaten to powder1 for each pound of the peaches2 clear it carefully from scum1 and boil it briskly for five minutes2 throw in the strained juice of one or two good lemons2 continue the boiling for three minutes only1 and pour out the marmalade4 ,two minutes after the sugar is stirred to the fruit1 add the blanched kernels of part of the peaches4 ,peaches1 stoned and pared1 #d lbs42 #c_/d hour4 ,sugar1 #b-a_/b lbs43 #b minutes4 ,blanched peach-kernels3 #c minutes4 ,juice of #b small lemons3 #c minutes4 ,obs4--,this jam1 like most others1 is improved by pressing the fruit through a sieve after it has been partially boiled4 ,nothing can be finer than its flavour1 which would be injured by adding the sugar at first2 and a larger proportion renders it cloyingly sweet4 ,nectarines and peaches mixed1 make an admirable preserve4 ,,to ,,preserve1 ,,or ,,to ,,dry ,,peaches ,,or ,,nectarines4 7,an easy and excellent ,receipt47 ,the fruit should be fine1 freshly gathered1 and fully ripe1 but still in its perfection4 ,pare1 halve1 and weigh it after the stones are removed2 lay it into a deep dish1 and strew over it an equal weight of highly refined pounded sugar2 let it remain until this is nearly dissolved1 then lift the fruit gently into a preserving-pan1 pour the juice and sugar to it1 and heat the whole over a very slow fire2 let it just simmer for ten minutes1 then turn it softly into a bowl1 and let it remain for two days2 repeat the slow heating and simmering at intervals of two or three days1 until the fruit is quite clear1 when it may be potted in the syrup1 or drained from it1 and dried upon large clean slates or dishes1 or upon wire-sieves4 ,the flavour will be excellent4 ,the strained juice of a lemon may be added to the syrup1 with good effect1 towards the end of the process1 and an additional ounce or two of sugar allowed for it4 ,,damson ,,jam4 7,,very ,,good47 ,the fruit for this jam should be freshly gathered and quite ripe4 ,split1 stone1 weigh1 and boil it quickly for forty minutes2 then stir in half its weight of good sugar roughly powdered1 and when it is dissolved1 give the preserve fifteen minutes additional boiling1 keeping it stirred1 and thoroughly skimmed4 ,damsons1 stoned1 #f lbs43 #dj minutes4 ,sugar1 #c lbs43 #ae minutes4 ,obs4--,a more refined preserve is made by pressing the fruit through a sieve after it is boiled tender2 but the jam is excellent without4 ,,damson ,,jelly4 ,bake separately in a very slow oven1 or boil in a pan or copper of water as described at page #dig1 any number of fine ripe damsons1 and one-third the quantity of bullaces1 or of any other pale plums1 as a portion of their juice will1 to most tastes1 improve1 by softening the flavour of the preserve1 and will render the colour brighter4 ,pour off the juice clear from the fruit1 strain and weigh it2 boil it quickly without sugar for twenty-five minutes1 draw it from the fire1 stir into it ten ounces of good sugar for each pound of juice1 and boil it quickly from six to ten minutes longer1 carefully clearing off all the scum4 ,the jelly must be often stirred before the sugar is added1 and constantly afterwards4 ,,damson1 ,,or ,,red ,,plum ,,solid4 7,,good47 ,pour the juice from some damsons which have stood for a night in a very cool oven1 or been stewed in a jar placed in a pan of water2 weigh and put it into a preserving-pan with a pound and four ounces of pearmains 7or of any other fine boiling apples71 pared1 cored1 and quartered1 to each pound of the juice2 boil these together1 keeping them well stirred1 from twenty-five to thirty minutes1 then add the sugar1 and when it is nearly dissolved1 continue the boiling for ten minutes4 ,this1 if done with exactness1 will give a perfectly smooth and firm preserve1 which may be moulded in small shapes1 and turned out for table4 ,the juice of any good red plum may be used for it instead of that of damsons4 ,to each pound clear damson-juice1 #a-a_/d lb4 pearmains 7or other good apples71 pared and cored3 #be to #cj minutes4 ,sugar1 #ad oz43 #aj minutes4 ,,excellent ,,damson ,,cheese4 ,when the fruit has been baked or stewed tender1 as directed above1 drain off the juice1 skin and stone the damsons1 pour back to them from a third to half of their juice1 weigh and then boil them over a clear brisk fire1 until they form quite a dry paste2 add six ounces of pounded sugar for each pound of the plums2 stir them off the fire until this is dissolved1 and boil the preserve again without quitting or ceasing to stir it1 until it leaves the pan quite dry1 and adheres in a mass to the spoon4 ,if it should not stick to the fingers when lightly touched1 it will be sufficiently done to keep very long2 press it quickly into pans or moulds2 lay on it a paper dipped in spirit when it is perfectly cold2 tie another fold over it1 and store it in a dry place4 ,bullace cheese is made in the same manner1 and almost any kind of plum will make an agreeable preserve of the sort4 ,to each pound of fruit1 pared1 stoned1 and mixed with the juice and boiled quite dry1 #f oz4 of pounded sugar1 boiled again to a dry paste4 ,,red ,,grape ,,jelly4 ,strip from their stalks some fine ripe black-cluster grapes1 and stir them with a wooden spoon over a gentle fire until all have burst1 and the juice flows freely from them2 strain it off without pressure1 and pass it through a jelly-bag1 or through a twice-folded muslin2 weigh and then boil it rapidly for twenty minutes2 draw it from the fire1 stir in it until dissolved1 fourteen ounces of good sugar1 roughly powdered1 to each pound of juice1 and boil the jelly quickly for fifteen minutes longer1 keeping it constantly stirred1 and perfectly well skimmed4 ,it will be very clear1 and of a beautiful pale rose-colour4 ,juice of black-cluster grapes3 #bj minutes4 ,to each pound of juice1 #ad oz4 good sugar3 #ae minutes4 ,obs4--,we have proved this jelly only with the kind of grape which we have named1 but there is little doubt that fine purple grapes of any sort would answer for it well4 ,,english ,,guava4 7,a firm1 clear1 bright ,jelly47 ,strip the stalks from a gallon or two of the large kind of bullaces called the shepherd's bullace2 give part of them a cut1 put them into stone jars1 and throw into one of them a pound or two of imperatrice plums1 if they can be obtained2 put the jars into pans of water1 and boil them as directed at page #dig2 then drain off the juice1 pass it through a thick strainer or jelly-bag1 and weigh it2 boil it quickly from fifteen to twenty minutes2 take it from the fire1 and stir in it till dissolved three-quarters of a pound of sugar to the pound of juice2 remove the scum with care1 and boil the preserve again quickly from eight to twelve minutes1 or longer should it not then jelly firmly on the skimmer4 ,when the fruit is very acid1 an equal weight of juice and sugar may be mixed together in the first instance1 and boiled briskly for about twenty minutes4 ,it is impossible to indicate the precise time which the jelly will require1 so much depends on the quality of the plums1 and on the degree of boiling previously given to them in the water-bath4 ,when properly made it is remarkably transparent and very firm4 ,it should be poured into shallow pans or small moulds1 and turned from them before it is served4 ,when the imperatrice plum cannot be procured1 any other that will give a pale red colour to the juice will answer4 ,the bullaces alone make an admirable preserve2 and even the commoner kinds afford an excellent one4 ,juice of the shepherd's bullace and imperatrice1 or other red plum1 #d lbs43 #ae to #bj minutes4 ,sugar1 #c lbs43 #h to #ab minutes4 ,or juice of bullaces and sugar1 equal weight3 #bj minutes4 ,obs4--,after the juice has been poured from the plums they may be stoned1 pared1 weighed1 and boiled to a paste2 then six ounces of sugar added to the pound1 and the boiling continued until the preserve is again very dry2 a small portion of the juice should be left with the fruit for this4 ,,very ,,fine ,,imperatrice ,,plum ,,marmalade4 ,weigh six pounds of the fruit when it is quite ripe1 but before the frost has touched it2 give each plum a cut as it is thrown into the preserving-pan1 and when all are done boil them from thirty-five to forty minutes1 taking out the stones as they rise to the surface1 when they are quite detached from the flesh of the fruit4 ,draw back the pan from the fire1 stir in two pounds of good sugar beaten to powder1 and boil the preserve quickly for fifteen minutes4 ,the imperatrice plum is of itself so sweet that this proportion of sugar makes with it a very rich preserve4 ,imperatrice plums 7without the stalks7 #f lbs43 boiled #ce to #dj minutes4 ,sugar #b lbs4 7added after the stones are out73 #ae minutes4 ,obs4--,some slight trouble would be avoided by pressing the fruit through a sieve after the first boiling2 but we do not think the marmalade would be improved by being freed from the skins of the plums4 ,,to ,,dry ,,imperatrice ,,plums4 7,an easy method47 ,put them into jars1 or wide-necked bottles1 with half a pound of good sugar1 rolled or pounded1 to twice the weight of fruit2 set them into a very cool oven for four or five hours2 or1 if more convenient1 place them1 with a little hay between them1 in a pan of cold water and boil them gently for rather more than three hours4 ,leave them in the syrup for a few days1 and finish them as directed for the drying of other fruits4 ,tie a bladder over the necks of the jars or bottles before they are placed in the pan of water1 and fasten two or three folds of paper over the former1 or cork the bottles when the fruit is to be baked4 ,the sugar should be put in after the fruit1 without being shaken down2 it will then dissolve gradually1 and be absorbed by it equally4 ,to each pound of plums1 #h ounces pounded sugar3 baked in cool oven #d or #e hours1 or steamed #c hours4 ,,to ,,bottle ,,fruit ,,for ,,winter ,,use4 ,gather the fruit in the middle of the day in very dry weather2 strip off the stalks1 and have in readiness some perfectly clean and dry wide-necked bottles2 turn each of these the instant before it is filled1 with the neck downwards1 and hold in it two or three lighted matches3 drop in the fruit before the vapour escapes1 shake it gently down1 press in some new corks1 dip the necks of the bottles into melted resin1 set them at night into an oven from which the bread has been drawn six or seven hours at least1 and let them remain until the morning3 if the heat be too great the bottles will burst4 ,currants1 cherries1 damsons1 greengages1 and various other kinds of plums will remain good for quite twelve months when bottled thus1 if stored in a dry place4 ,to steam the fruit1 put the bottles into a copper or other vessel up to their necks in cold water1 with a little hay between and under them2 light the fire1 let the water heat slowly1 and keep it at the point of gentle simmering until the fruit is sufficiently scalded4 ,some kinds will of course require a much longer time than others4 ,from half to three quarters of an hour will be sufficient for gooseberries1 currants1 and raspberries2 but the appearance of all will best denote their being done4 ,when they have sunk almost half the depth of the bottles1 and the skins are shrivelled1 extinguish the fire1 but leave them in the water until it is quite cold2 then wipe and store the bottles in a dry place4 ,a bit of moistened bladder tied over corks is better than the resin when the fruit is steamed4 ,,apple ,,jelly4 ,various kind of apples may be used successfully to make this jelly1 but the nonsuch is by many persons preferred to all others for the purpose4 ,the ,ripstone pippin1 however1 may be used for it with very good effect1 either solely1 or with a mixture of pearmains4 ,it is necessary only that the fruit should be finely flavoured1 and that it should boil easily to a marmalade4 ,pare1 core1 quarter1 and weigh it quickly that it may not lose its colour1 and to each pound pour a pint of cold water and boil it until it is well broken1 without being reduced to a quite thick pulp1 as it would then be difficult to render the juice perfectly clear1 which it ought to be4 ,drain this well from the apples1 either through a fine sieve or a folded muslin strainer1 pass it afterwards through a jelly-bag1 or turn the fruit at once into the last of these1 and pour the liquid through a second time if needful4 ,when it appears quite transparent1 weigh1 and reduce it by quick boiling for twenty minutes2 draw it from the fire1 add two pounds of sugar broken very small1 for three of the decoction2 stir it till it is entirely dissolved1 then place the preserving-pan again over a clear fire and boil the preserve quickly for ten minutes1 or until it jellies firmly upon the skimmer when poured from it2 throw in the strained juice of a small lemon for every two pounds of jelly1 two minutes before it is taken from the fire4 ,apples1 #g lbs42 water1 #g pints3 #a_/b to full hour4 ,juice1 #f lbs43 #bj minutes quick boiling4 ,sugar1 #d lbs43 #aj to #be minutes4 ,juice three lemons4 ,,exceedingly ,,fine ,,apple ,,jelly4 ,pare quickly some highly flavoured juicy apples of any kind1 or of various kinds together1 for this is immaterial2 slice1 without dividing them2 but first free them from the stalks and eyes2 shake out some of the pips1 and put the apples evenly into very clean large stone jars1 just dipping an occasional layer into cold water as this is done1 the better to preserve the colour of the whole4 ,set the jars into pans of water1 and boil the fruit slowly until it is quite soft1 then turn it into a jelly-bag or cloth and let the juice all drop from it4 ,the quantity which it will have yielded will be small1 but it will be clear and rich4 ,weigh1 and boil it for ten minutes1 then draw it from the fire1 and stir into it1 until it is entirely dissolved1 twelve ounces of good sugar to the pound and quarter 7or pint7 of juice4 ,place the preserve again over the fire and stir it without intermission1 except to clear off the scum1 until it has boiled from eight to ten minutes longer1 for otherwise it will jelly on the surface with the scum upon it1 which it will then be difficult to remove1 as when touched it will break and fall into the preserve4 ,the strained juice of one small fresh lemon to the pint of jelly should be thrown into it two or three minutes before it is poured out1 and the rind of one or two cut very thin may be simmered in the juice before the sugar is added2 but the pale1 delicate colour of the jelly will be injured by too much of it1 and many persons would altogether prefer the pure flavour of the fruit4 ,juice of apples1 #a quart1 or #b-a_/b lbs43 #aj minutes4 ,sugar1 #a-a_/b lb43 #h to #aj minutes4 ,juice1 #b small lemons2 rind of #a or more at pleasure4 ,obs4--,the quantity of apples required for it renders this a rather expensive preserve1 where they are not abundant2 but it is a remarkably fine jelly1 and turns out from the moulds in perfect shape and very firm4#afh ,it may be served in the second course1 or for rice-crust4 ,it is sometimes made without paring the apples1 or dipping them into the water1 and the colour is then a deep red3 we have occasionally had a pint of water added to about a gallon and a half of apples1 but the jelly was not then quite so fine in flavour4 ,the best time for making it is from the end of ,november to ,christmas4 ,quince jelly would1 without doubt1 be very fine made by this receipt2 but as the juice of that fruit is richer than that of the apple1 a little water might be added4 ,alternate layers of apples and quinces would also answer well1 we think4 ,footnote #afh3 ,it is1 we should say1 quite equal to gele de pommes1 for which ,rouen is somewhat celebrated4 ,,quince ,,jelly4 ,pare1 quarter1 core1 and weigh some ripe but quite sound quinces1 as quickly as possible1 and throw them as they are done into part of the water in which they are to be boiled1 as directed at page #def2 allow one pint of this to each pound of the fruit1 and simmer it gently until it is a little broken1 but not so long as to redden the juice1 which ought to be very pale4 ,turn the whole into a jelly-bag1 or strain the liquid through a fine cloth1 and let it drain very closely from it but without the slightest pressure4 ,weigh the juice1 put it into a delicately clean preserving-pan1 and boil it quickly for twenty minutes2 take it from the fire and stir in it1 until it is entirely dissolved1 twelve ounces of sugar for each pound of juice1 or fourteen ounces if the fruit should be very acid1 which it will be in the earlier part of the season2 keep it constantly stirred and thoroughly cleared from scum1 from ten to twenty minutes longer1 or until it jellies strongly in falling from the skimmer2 then pour it directly into glasses or moulds4 ,if properly made1 it will be sufficiently firm to turn out of the latter1 and it will be beautifully transparent1 and rich in flavour4 ,it may be made with an equal weight of juice and sugar mixed together in the first instance1 and boiled from twenty to thirty minutes4 ,it is difficult to state the time precisely1 because from different causes it will vary much4 ,it should be reduced rapidly to the proper point1 as long boiling injures the colour3 this is always more perfectly preserved by boiling the juice without the sugar first4 ,to each pound pared and cored quinces1 #a pint water3 #c_/d to #a-a_/b hour4 ,juice1 boiled #bj minutes4 ,to each pound1 #ab oz4 sugar3 #aj to #bj minutes4 ,or1 juice and sugar equal weight3 #bj to #cj minutes4 ,,quince ,,marmalade4 ,when to economise the fruit is not an object1 pare1 core1 and quarter some of the inferior quinces1 and boil them in as much water as will nearly cover them1 until they begin to break2 strain the juice from them1 and for the marmalade put half a pint of it to each pound of fresh quinces3 in preparing these1 be careful to cut out the hard stony parts round the cores4 ,simmer them gently until they are perfectly tender1 then press them1 with the juice1 through a coarse sieve2 put them into a perfectly clean pan1 and boil them until they form almost a dry paste2 add for each round of quinces and the half pint of juice1 three-quarters of a pound of sugar in fine powder1 and boil the marmalade for half an hour1 stirring it gently without ceasing3 it will be very firm and bright in colour4 ,if made shortly after the fruit is gathered1 a little additional sugar will be required2 and when a richer and less dry marmalade is better liked1 it must be boiled for a shorter time1 and an equal weight of fruit and sugar may be used4 ,quinces1 pared and cored1 #d lbs42 prepared juice1 #a quart3 #b to #c hours4 ,boiled fast to dry1 #bj to #dj minutes4 ,sugar1 #c lbs43 #cj minutes4 ,richer marmalade3 quinces1 #d lbs42 juice1 #a quart2 sugar1 #d lbs4 ,,quince ,,and ,,apple ,,marmalade4 ,boil together1 from three-quarters of an hour to an hour1 two pounds of pearmains1 or of any other well-flavoured apples1 in an equal weight of prepared quince-juice 7see page #def71 then take them from the fire1 and mix with them a pound and a half of sugar1 in fine powder2 when this is a little dissolved1 set the pan again over a brisk fire1 and boil the preserve for twenty minutes longer1 keeping it stirred all the time4 ,prepared quince-juice1 #b lbs42 apples1 #b lbs43 #c_/d to #a hour4 ,sugar1 #a-a_/b lb43 #bj minutes4 ,,quince ,,paste4 ,if the full flavour of the quinces be desired1 stew them sufficiently tender to press through a sieve1 in the prepared juice of page #def1 otherwise1 in just water enough to about three parts cover them2 when they are soft quite through lift them out1 let them cool1 and then pass them through a sieve2 reduce them to a dry paste over a very clear fire1 and stir them constantly2 then weigh the fruit1 and mix it with an equal proportion of pounded sugar1 or sugar boiled to candy height 7we find the effect nearly the same1 whichever method be pursued71 and stir the paste without intermission until it is again so dry as to quit the pan and adhere to the spoon in one large ball2 press it into shallow pans or dishes2 cut it1 as soon as cold1 into small squares1 and should they seem to require it1 dry them with a very gentle degree of heat1 and when they are again cold store them in tin cases with well-dried foolscap paper between them3 the paste may be moulded1 when more convenient1 and kept until it is wanted for table1 in a very dry place4 ,in ,france1 where the fruit is admirably confected1 the pte de coigns1 or quince paste1 is somewhat less boiled than we have directed1 and dried afterwards in the sun1 or in an extremely gentle oven1 in square tin frames1 about an inch and a half deep1 placed upon clean slates4 ,,jelly ,,of ,,siberian ,,crabs4 ,this fruit makes a jelly of beautiful colour1 and of pleasant flavour also3 it may be stored in small moulds of ornamental shape1 and turned out for rice-crust4 ,take off the stalks1 weigh1 and wash the crabs2 then1 to each pound and a half1 add a pint of water and boil them gently until they are broken1 but do not allow them to fall to a pulp4 ,pour the whole into a jelly-bag1 and when the juice is quite transparent1 weigh it1 put it into a clean preserving-pan1 boil it quickly for fifteen minutes1 take it from the fire1 and stir in it until dissolved three-quarters of a pound of fine sugar roughly powdered to each pound of the juice2 boil the jelly from fifteen to twenty minutes1 skim it very clean1 and pour it into the moulds4 ,should the quantity be large1 a few additional minutes' boiling must be given to the juice before the sugar is added4 ,to each #a-a_/b lb4 of crabs2 water1 #a pint3 #ab to #ah minutes4 ,juice to be fast boiled1 #ae minutes2 sugar1 to each pound1 #c_/d lb42 #ae to #bj minutes4 ,,to ,,preserve ,,barberries ,,in ,,bunches4 ,take the finest barberries without stones that can be procured1 tie them together in bunches of four or five sprigs1 and for each half pound of the fruit 7which is extremely light71 boil one pound of very good sugar in a pint of water for twenty minutes1 and clear it well from scum2 throw in the fruit1 let it heat gently1 and then boil from five to seven minutes1 when it will be perfectly transparent4 ,so long as any snapping noise is heard the fruit is not all done2 it should be pressed equally down into the syrup until the whole of the berries have burst2 and should then be turned into jars1 which must be covered with skin or two or three folds of thick paper1 as soon as the preserve is perfectly cold4 ,the barberries thus prepared make a beautiful garnish for sweet dishes1 or for puddings4 ,barberries1 tied in bunches1 #a-a_/b lb42 sugar #c lbs42 water #a-a_/b pint3 #bj minutes4 ,barberries boiled in syrup3 #e to #g minutes4 ,,barberry ,,jam4 7,first and best ,receipt47 ,the barberries for this preserve should be quite ripe1 though they should not be allowed to hang until they begin to decay4 ,strip them from the stalks1 throw aside such as are spotted1 and for each pound of the fruit allow eighteen ounces of well-refined sugar2 boil this1 with one pint of water to every four pounds1 until it becomes white1 and falls in thick masses from the spoon2 then throw in the fruit1 and keep it stirred over a brisk fire for six minutes only2 take off the scum1 and pour it into jars or glasses4 ,sugar1 #d-a_/d lbs42 water1 #a-a_/d pint3 boiled to candy height4 ,barberries1 #d lbs43 #f minutes4 ,barberry ,jam4 ,second ,receipt4--,the preceding is an excellent receipt1 but the preserve will be very good if eighteen ounces of pounded sugar be mixed and boiled with the fruit for ten minutes and this is done at a small expense of time and trouble4 ,sugar pounded1 #b-a_/d lbs42 fruit1 #b lbs43 boiled #aj minutes4 ,,superior ,,barberry ,,jelly1 ,,and ,,marmalade4 ,strip the fruit from the stems1 wash it in spring-water1 drain1 bruise it slightly1 and put it into a clean stone jar1 with no more liquid than the drops which hang about it4 ,place the jar in a pan of water1 and steam the fruit until it is quite tender3 this will be in from thirty minutes to an hour4 ,pour off the clear juice1 strain1 weigh1 and boil it quickly from five to seven minutes1 with eighteen ounces of sugar to every pound4 ,for the marmalade1 rub the barberries through a sieve with a wooden spoon1 and boil them quickly for the same time1 and with the same proportion of sugar as the jelly4 ,barberries boiled in water-bath until tender2 to each pound of juice1 #a lb4 #b oz4 sugar3 #e minutes4 ,pulp of fruit to each pound1 #ah oz4 sugar3 #e minutes4 ,obs4--,we have always had these preserves made with very ripe fruit1 and have found them extremely good2 but more sugar may be needed to sweeten them sufficiently when the barberries have hung less time upon the trees4 ,,orange ,,marmalade4 7,a ,portuguese ,receipt47 ,rasp very slightly on a fine and delicately clean grater the rinds of some sound ,seville oranges2 cut them into quarters1 and separate the flesh from the rinds2 then with the small end of a tea1 or egg-spoon1 clear it entirely from the pips1 and from the loose inner skin and film4 ,put the rinds into a large quantity of cold water1 and change it when they have boiled about twenty minutes4 ,as soon as they are perfectly tender lift them out1 and drain them on a sieve2 slice them thin1 and add eight ounces of them to each pound of the pulp and juice1 with a pound and a half of highly-refined sugar in fine powder2 boil the marmalade quickly for half an hour1 skim it well1 and turn it into the jars4 ,the preserve thus made will not have a very powerful flavour of the orange rind4 ,when more of this is liked1 either leave a portion of the fruit unrasped1 or mix with the preserve some of the zest which has been grated off1 allowing for it its weight of sugar4 ,or proceed thus3 allow to a dozen ,seville oranges two fine juicy lemons1 and the weight of the whole in sifted sugar1 of excellent quality4 ,with a sharp knife cut through the rinds just deep enough to allow them to be stripped off in quarters with the end of a spoon1 and throw them for a night into plenty of cold spring-water2 on the following morning boil them sufficiently tender to allow the head of a pin to pierce them easily2 then drain them well1 let them cool1 and scrape out the white part of the rind1 and cut the remainder into thin chips4 ,in the mean time have the pulp of the fruit quite cleared from the pips and film2 put it with the chips into a preserving-pan1 heat them slowly1 boil them for ten minutes1 draw the pan from the fire1 and stir gradually in1 and dissolve the remainder of the sugar1 and boil the preserve more quickly for twenty minutes1 or until it thickens and appears ready to jelly4 ,this mode1 though it gives a little additional trouble1 will prevent the orange-chips from becoming hard1 which they will sometimes be if much sugar be added to them at first4 ,the sugar first broken into large lumps1 is sometimes made into a very thick syrup1 with so much water only as will just dissolve it2 the pulp and juice are in that case boiled in it quickly for ten minutes before the chips are added2 and a part of these are pounded and stirred into the preserve with the others4 ,march is the proper month for making this preserve1 the ,seville oranges being then in perfection4 ,for lemon marmalade proceed exactly in the same manner as for this4 ,rinds of ,seville oranges1 lightly rasped and boiled tender1 #b lbs42 pulp and juice1 #d lbs42 sugar1 #f lbs43 #a_/b hour4 ,or1 weight of oranges1 first taken in sugar1 and added1 with all the rinds1 to the pulp after the whole has been properly prepared4 ,,genuine ,,scotch ,,marmalade4 8,take some bitter oranges1 and double their weight of sugar2 cut the rind of the fruit into quarters and peel it off1 and if the marmalade be not wanted very thick1 take off some of the spongy white skin inside the rind4 ,cut the chips as thin as possible1 and about half an inch long1 and divide the pulp into small bits1 removing carefully the seeds1 which may be steeped in part of the water that is to make the marmalade1 and which must be in the proportion of a quart to a pound of fruit4 ,put the chips and pulp into a deep earthen dish1 and pour the water boiling over them2 let them remain for twelve or fourteen hours1 and then turn the whole into the preserving-pan1 and boil it until the chips are perfectly tender4 ,when they are so1 add by degrees the sugar 7which should be previously pounded71 and boil it until it jellies4 ,the water in which the seeds have been steeped1 and which must be taken from the quantity apportioned to the whole of the preserve1 should be poured into a hair-sieve1 and the seeds well worked in it with the back of a spoon2 a strong clear jelly will be obtained by this means1 which must be washed off them by pouring their own liquor through the sieve in small portions over them4 ,this must be added to the fruit when it is first set on the fire40 ,oranges1 #c lbs42 water1 #c quarts2 sugar1 #f lbs4 ,obs4--,this receipt1 which we have not tried ourselves1 is guaranteed as an excellent one by the ,scottish lady from whom it was procured4 ,,clear ,,orange ,,marmalade4 7,author's ,receipt47 ,this1 especially for persons in delicate health1 is far more wholesome than the marmalade which contains chips of the orange-rinds4 ,the fruit must be prepared in the same manner1 and the pulp very carefully cleared from the pips and skin4 ,the rinds taken off in quarters 7after having been washed and wiped quite clean from the black soil which is sometimes found on them71 must be boiled extremely tender in a large quantity of water1 into which they may be thrown when it boils4 ,they should be well drained upon a large hair sieve reversed1 so soon as the head of a pin will pierce them easily2 and the white skin and fibres should be scraped entirely from them while they are still warm4 ,they should then be pounded to a paste1 and well blended with the pulp and juice1 these being added to them by degrees1 that they may not remain in lumps4 ,a quarter of a pint of water1 in which the seeds have been immersed for an hour or two1 well worked up with them1 and then passed through a net strainer#afi or coarse sieve1 will soften the flavour of the marmalade1 and assist its jellying at the same time4 ,boil it rather quickly without sugar for a quarter of an hour or twenty minutes1 then finish it by the directions for 8,orange ,marmalade1 ,portuguese ,receipt10 of the preceding page1 but regulate the proportion of sugar and the time of boiling as follows3-- ,footnote #afi3 ,strainers of coarse bobbin-net1 which is very cheap1 are preferable to muslin for preparations which are jellied1 as the water becomes thick when the orange-seeds are steeped in it4 ,pulp and juice of ,seville oranges1 #a-a_/b lb42 water strained from pips1 #a_/b pint2 pounded orange-rinds #c_/d lb43 #ae to #bj minutes4 ,sugar1 #b-c_/d lb4 7#c lb4 if the fruit should be very acid71 half added first1 #aj to #ae minutes2 with remaining half1 #ae to #bj minutes1 or until the marmalade becomes quite thick and clear4 ,obs4--,we have occasionally had more water than the proportion given above used in making this preserve1 which is very nice in flavour1 but which may be made to suit various tastes by adding a larger or smaller quantity of the rinds2 and a larger weight of sugar when it is liked very sweet4 ,when the bitterness of the fruit is objected to1 the rinds may be steeped for a night in a plentiful quantity of spring water4 ,,fine ,,jelly ,,of ,,seville ,,oranges4 7,author's ,original ,receipt47 ,although we have appropriated this receipt to another work1 we cannot refrain from inserting it here as well1 so delicious to our taste is the jelly which we have had made by it4 ,for eighteen full-sized oranges allow a pint and a half of water4 ,take off the rinds in quarters from ten of them1 and then free them entirely from their tough white skin1 and with a sharp knife cut them into rather thick slices1 and put them with all the pips into the water4 ,halve the remainder of the fruit without paring it1 and squeeze the juice and pips1 but not the pulp1 to the sliced oranges2 and place them by the fire in an enamelled stewpan which they will not more than two-thirds fill4 ,heat and boil them gently between twenty and thirty minutes1 then strain the juice closely from them without pressure1 through a large square of muslin folded in four1 or1 if more convenient1 pass it first through a very thin and delicately clean cloth1 and afterwards through the folded muslin4 ,weigh and boil it quickly for five minutes2 then for each pound stir gradually to it fourteen ounces of highly refined sugar1 broken small or roughly powdered2 and when it is quite dissolved1 continue the boiling for a few minutes longer1 when the preserve will jelly easily and firmly1 and be pale and beautifully transparent1 and most agreeable in flavour4 ,seville oranges1 #ah2 of which #aj pared and sliced4 ,water1 #a-a_/b pint1 and juice of #h oranges3 gently heated and boiled #bj to #cj minutes4 ,juice boiled quickly #e minutes4 ,to each lb4 #ad oz4 sugar3 #e to #h minutes4 ,obs4--,on our second trial we had the very thin rind of three of the oranges stewed with the fruit1 which we thought an improvement4 ,the jelly in both instances was made1 we believe1 in ,april1 when the fruit was fully ripe3 earlier in the season it would probably require longer boiling4 ,on one occasion it became quite firm very quickly after the sugar was added to the juice2 that is to say1 in three or four minutes4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,chapter ,,xxv4 ,pickles4 ,illustration3 ,mango4 ,,observations ,,on ,,pickles4 ,,with the exception of walnuts1#agj which1 when softened by keeping1 or by the mode of preparing them1 are the least objectionable of any pickle1 with ,indian mangoes1 and one or two other varieties1 these are not very wholesome articles of diet1#aga consisting1 as so many of them do1 of crude hard vegetables1 or of unripe fruit4 ,in numerous instances1 too1 those which are commonly sold to the public have been found of so deadly a nature as to be eminently dangerous to persons who partake of them often and largely4 ,it is most desirable1 therefore1 to have them prepared at home1 and with good genuine vinegar1 whether ,french or ,english4 ,that which is home-made can at least be relied on2 and it may be made of excellent quality and of sufficient strength for all ordinary purposes4 ,the superiority of ,french vinegar results from its being made of wine2 no substitute producing any equal to that derived from the unmixed juice of the grape4 ,in our next page will be found the address of the importers1 from whom1 or whose agents1 we have for several years been supplied with it4 ,footnote #agj3 ,the bitter of the green walnut renders it a fine stomachic4 ,in ,france a liqueur called 8,ratifia de ,brou de ,noix10 is made by infusing the bruised fruit in brandy4 ,footnote #aga3 ,flavoured vinegars or mustard are more so1 and are equally appetising and pungent4 ,pickles should always be kept quite covered with their liquor1 and well secured from the air and from the influence of damp2 the last of which is especially detrimental to them4 ,we can quite recommend to the reader the rather limited number of receipts which follow1 and which might easily be multiplied did the size of our volume permit4 ,pickling is so easy a process1 however1 that when in any degree properly acquired1 it may be extended to almost every kind of fruit and vegetable successfully4 ,a few of the choicer kinds will nevertheless be found generally more acceptable than a greater variety of inferior preparations4 ,mushrooms1 gherkins1 walnuts1 lemons1 eschalots1 and peaches1 for all of which we have given minute directions1 will furnish as much choice as is commonly required4 ,very excellent ,indian mangoes too may be purchased at the ,italian warehouses1 and to many tastes will be more acceptable than any ,english pickle4 ,we have had them very good from ,mr4 ,cobbett1 #ah1 ,pall ,mall1 whose house we have already had occasion to name more than once4 ,,to ,,pickle ,,cherries4 ,leave about an inch of their stalks on some fine1 sound ,kentish or ,flemish cherries1 which are not over ripe2 put them into a jar1 cover them with cold vinegar1 and let them stand for three weeks2 pour off two-thirds of the liquor and replace it with fresh vinegar2 then1 after having drained it from the fruit1 boil the whole with an ounce of coriander seed1 a small blade of mace1 a few grains of cayenne1 or a teaspoonful of white peppercorns1 and four bruised cochineals to every quart1 all tied loosely in a fold of muslin4 ,let the pickle become quite cold before it is added to the cherries3 in a month they will be fit for use4 ,the vinegar which is poured from the fruit makes a good syrup of itself1 when boiled with a pound of sugar to the pint1 but it is improved by having some fresh raspberries1 cherries1 or currants previously infused in it for three or four days4 ,,to ,,pickle ,,gherkins4 ,let the gherkins be gathered on a dry day1 before the frost has touched them2 take off the blossoms1 put them into a stone jar1 and pour over them sufficient boiling brine to cover them well4 ,the following day take them out1 wipe them singly1 lay them into a clean stone jar1 with a dozen bay leaves over them1 and pour upon them the following pickle1 when it is boiling fast3 as much vinegar as will more than cover the gherkins by an inch or two1 with an ounce and a quarter of salt1 a quarter-ounce of black peppercorns1 an ounce and a half of ginger sliced1 or slightly bruised1 and two small blades of mace to every quart2 put a plate over the jar1 and leave it for two days1 then drain off the vinegar1 and heat it afresh2 when it boils1 throw in the gherkins1 and keep them just on the point of simmering for two or three minutes2 pour the whole back into the jar1 put the plate again upon it1 and let it remain until the pickle is quite cold1 when a skin1 or two separate folds of thick brown paper1 must be tied closely over it4 ,the gherkins thus pickled are very crisp1 and excellent in flavour1 and the colour is sufficiently good to satisfy the prudent housekeeper1 to whom the brilliant and poisonous green produced by boiling the vinegar in a brass skillet 7a process constantly recommended in books of cookery7 is anything but attractive4 ,to satisfy ourselves of the effect produced by the action of the acid on the metal1 we had a few gherkins thrown into some vinegar which was boiling in a brass pan1 and nothing could be more beautiful than the colour which they almost immediately exhibited4 ,we fear this dangerous method is too often resorted to in preparing pickles for sale4 ,brine to pour on gherkins3--#f oz4 salt to each quart water3 #bd hours4 ,pickle3--to each quart vinegar1 salt1 #a-a_/d oz42 black peppercorns1 #a_/d oz42 ginger1 sliced or bruised1 #a-a_/b oz42 mace1 #b small blades2 bay leaves2 #bd to #ajj gherkins1 more when the flavour is liked3 #b days4 ,gherkins simmered in vinegar1 #b to #c minutes4 ,obs4--,the quantity of vinegar required to cover the gherkins will be shown by that of the brine3 so much depends upon their size1 that it is impossible to direct the measure exactly4 ,a larger proportion of spice can be added at pleasure4 ,,to ,,pickle ,,gherkins4 7,a ,french ,receipt47 ,brush or wipe the gherkins very clean1 throw them into plenty of fast-boiling water1 and give them a single boil1 take them out quickly1 and throw them immediately into a large quantity of very cold water2 change it once1 and when the gherkins themselves are quite cold1 drain them well1 spread them on sieves or dishes1 and dry them in the air4 ,when this is done1 put them into stone jars1 and pour on them as much boiling vinegar as will cover them well2 heat it anew1 and pour it on them again the following day2 and on the next throw them into it for a minute so soon as it boils1 with plenty of tarragon in branches1 a few very small silver onions1 and salt and whole pepper in the same proportions as in the receipt above4 ,it should be observed that the ,french vinegar1 from its superior excellence1 will have a very different effect1 in many preparations1 to that which is made up for sale generally in ,england4#agb ,footnote #agb3 ,we have already spoken in ,chapter ,,vi4 of the very superior ,vinaigre de ,bordeaux so largely imported by the ,messrs4 ,kent and ,sons1 of ,upton-on-,severn1 and sold by their agents in almost every town in ,england4 ,it may be procured in small quantities 7bottled7 of ,mr4 ,metcalfe1 ,foreign ,warehouse1 ,southampton ,row1 ,london1 and of other agents1 whose names may easily be known by applying to the ,messrs4 ,kent themselves4 ,,to ,,pickle ,,peaches1 ,,and ,,peach ,,mangoes4 ,take1 at their full growth1 just before they begin to ripen1 six large or eight moderate-sized peaches2 wipe the down from them1 and put them into brine that will float an egg4 ,in three days let them be taken out1 and drained on a sieve reversed for several hours4 ,boil in a quart of vinegar for ten minutes two ounces of whole white pepper1 two of ginger slightly bruised1 a teaspoonful of salt1 two blades of mace1 half a pound of mustard-seed1 and a half-teaspoonful of cayenne tied in a bit of muslin4 ,lay the peaches into a jar1 and pour the boiling pickle on them3 in two months they will be fit for use4 ,peaches1 #f or #h3 in brine three days4 ,vinegar1 #a quart2 whole white pepper1 #b oz42 bruised ginger1 #b oz42 salt1 #a teaspoonful2 mace1 #b blades2 mustard-seed1 #a_/b lb43 #aj minutes4 ,obs4--,the peaches may be converted into excellent mangoes by cutting out from the stalk-end of each1 a round of sufficient size to allow the stone to be extracted3 this should be done after they are taken from the brine4 ,they may be filled with very fresh mustard-seed1 previously washed in a little vinegar2 to this a small portion of garlic1 or bruised eschalots1 cayenne1 horseradish1 chilies 7the most appropriate of any71 or spice of any kind may be added1 to the taste4 ,the part cut out must be replaced1 and secured with a packthread crossed over the fruit4 ,,sweet ,,pickle ,,of ,,melon4 7,,foreign ,,receipt47 7,to serve with ,roast ,meat47 ,take1 within three or four days of their being fully ripe1 one or two well-flavoured melons2 just pare off the outer rind1 clear them from the seeds1 and cut them into slices of about half an inch thick2 lay them into good vinegar1 and let them remain in it for ten days2 then cover them with cold fresh vinegar1 and simmer them very gently until they are tender4 ,lift them on to a sieve reversed1 to drain1 and when they are quite cold stick a couple of cloves into each slice1 lay them into a jar 7a glass one1 if at hand7 and cover them well with cold syrup1 made with ten ounces of sugar to the pint of water1 boiled quickly together for twenty minutes4 ,in about a week take them from the syrup1 let it drain from them a little1 then put them into jars in which they are to be stored1 and cover them again thoroughly with good vinegar1 which has been boiled for an instant1 and left to become quite cold before it is added to them4 ,this pickle is intended to be served more particularly with roast mutton1 hare1 and venison1 instead of currant jelly1 but it is very good with stewed meat also4 ,small blades of cinnamon1 and a larger proportion of cloves are sometimes stuck into the melon1 but their flavour should not prevail too strongly4 ,we have found the receipt answer extremely well as we have given it1 when tried with small green melons1 cut within four days of being fit for table4 ,melons not quite ripe1 pared from hard rind and sliced1 #a or #b3 in vinegar #aj days4 ,simmered in it until tender4 ,in syrup #f to #g days4 ,in fresh vinegar to remain4 ,ready to serve in a month4 ,a ,common ,sweet ,pickle of ,melon4--,prepare the fruit as above4 ,in a fortnight simmer it until tender2 drain1 and lay it into jars1 and pour on it while just warm1 a pickle made with a pound and two ounces of coarse brown sugar1 twenty cloves1 and half a drachm of cinnamon to the pint of vinegar1 boiled together for ten minutes4 ,,to ,,pickle ,,mushrooms4 ,select for this purpose the smallest buttons of the wild meadow mushrooms1 in preference to those which are artificially raised1 and let them be as freshly gathered as possible4 ,cut the stems off quite close1 and clean them with a bit of new flannel slightly moistened1 and dipped into fine salt2 throw them as they are done into plenty of spring-water1 mixed with a large spoonful of salt1 but drain them from it quickly afterwards1 and lay them into a soft cloth to dry1 or the moisture which hangs about them will too much weaken the pickle4 ,for each quart of the mushrooms thus prepared1 take nearly a quart of the palest white wine vinegar 7this is far superior to the distilled vinegar generally used for the purpose1 and the variation in the colour of the mushrooms will be very slight71 and add to it a heaped teaspoonful of salt1 half an ounce of whole white pepper1 an ounce of ginger1 sliced or slightly bruised1 about the fourth of a saltspoonful of cayenne tied in a small bit of muslin1 and two large blades of mace3 to these may be added half a small nutmeg1 sliced1 but too much spice will entirely overpower the fine natural flavour of the mushrooms4 ,when the pickle boils throw them in1 and boil them in it over a clear fire moderately fast from six to nine minutes1 or somewhat longer1 should they not be very small4 ,when they are much disproportioned in size1 the larger ones should have two minutes boil before the others are thrown into the vinegar4 ,as soon as they are tolerably tender1 put them at once into small stone jars1 or into warm wide-necked bottles1 and divide the spice equally amongst them4 ,the following day1 or as soon as they are perfectly cold1 secure them from the air with large corks1 or tie skins and paper over them4 ,they should be stored in a dry place1 and guarded from severe frost4 ,when the colour of the mushrooms is more considered than the excellence of the pickle1 the distilled vinegar can be used for it4 ,the reader may rely upon this receipt as a really good one2 we have had it many times proved1 and it is altogether our own4 ,mushroom buttons 7without the stems71 #b quarts2 palest white wine vinegar1 short #a_/b gallon2 salt1 large dessertspoonful1 or #a-a_/b oz42 white peppercorns1 #a oz42 whole ginger1 #b oz42 cayenne1 small #a_/b saltspoonful2 #a small nutmeg4 ,,mushrooms ,,in ,,brine4 ,for ,winter ,use4 7,very ,good47 ,we have had small mushroom-buttons excellently preserved through the winter prepared as follows1 and we therefore give the exact proportions which we had used for them1 though the same quantity of brine would possibly allow of rather more mushrooms in it4 ,prepare them exactly as for the preceding pickle1 and measure them after the stems are taken off4 ,for each quart1 boil together for five minutes two quarts of water1 with half a pound of common white salt1 a small dessertspoonful of white peppercorns1 a couple of blades of mace1 and a race of ginger2 take off the scum thoroughly1 and throw in the mushrooms2 boil them gently for about five minutes1 then put them into well-warmed1 wide-necked bottles1 and let them become perfectly cold2 pour a little good salad-oil on the top1 cork them with new corks1 and tie bladder over1 or cover them with two separate bladders4 ,when wanted for use1 soak the mushrooms in warm water until the brine is sufficiently extracted4 ,mushrooms1 #a quart2 water1 #a_/b gallon2 salt1 #a_/b lb42 peppercorns1 #a small dessertspoonful2 mace1 #b blades2 ginger1 #a race3 #e minutes4 ,mushrooms1 in brine3 #e minutes4 ,,to ,,pickle ,,walnuts4 ,the walnuts for this pickle must be gathered while a pin can pierce them easily1 for when once the shell can be felt1 they have ceased to be in a proper state for it4 ,make sufficient brine to cover them well1 with six ounces of salt to the quart of water2 take off the scum1 which will rise to the surface as the salt dissolves1 throw in the walnuts1 and stir them night and morning2 change the brine every three days1 and if they are wanted for immediate eating1 leave them in it for twelve days2 otherwise1 drain them from it in nine1 spread them on dishes1 and let them remain exposed to the air until they become black3 this will be in twelve hours1 or less4 ,make a pickle for them with something more than half a gallon of vinegar to the hundred1 a teaspoonful of salt1 two ounces of black pepper1 three of bruised ginger1 a drachm of mace1 and from a quarter to half an ounce of cloves 7of which some may be stuck into three or four small onions71 and four ounces of mustard-seed4 ,boil the whole of these together for about five minutes2 have the walnuts ready in a stone jar or jars1 and pour it on them as it is taken from the fire4 ,when the pickle is quite cold1 cover the jar securely1 and store it in a dry place4 ,keep the walnuts always well covered with vinegar1 and boil that which is added to them4 ,walnuts1 #ajj2 in brine made with #ab oz4 salt to #b quarts water1 and changed twice or more1 #i or #ab days4 ,vinegar1 full #a_/b gallon2 salt1 #a teaspoonful2 whole black pepper1 #b oz42 ginger1 #c oz42 mace1 #a drachm2 cloves1 #a_/d to #a_/b oz42 small onions1 #d to #f2 mustard-seed1 #d oz43 #e minutes4 ,,to ,,pickle ,,beet-,,root4 ,boil the beet-root tender by the directions of page #cbi1 and when it is quite cold1 pare and slice it2 put it into a jar1 and cover it with vinegar previously boiled and allowed to become again perfectly cold3 it will soon be ready for use4 ,it is excellent when merely covered with chili vinegar4 ,a few small shalots may be boiled in the pickle for it when their flavour is liked4 ,carrots boiled tolerably tender in salt and water may be prepared by this receipt with or without the addition of the shalots1 or with a few very small silver onions1 which should be boiled for a minute or two in the pickle3 this should be poured hot on the carrots4 ,to each quart of vinegar1 salt1 #a teaspoonful2 cayenne tied in muslin1 #a_/b saltspoonful1 or white peppercorns1 #a_/b to whole oz4 ,,pickled ,,eschalots4 7,author's ,receipt47 ,for a quart of ready-peeled eschalots1 add to the same quantity of the best pale white wine vinegar1 a dessertspoonful of salt1 and an ounce of whole white pepper2 bring these quickly to a boil1 take off the scum1 throw in the eschalots1 simmer them for two minutes only1 turn them into a clean stone jar1 and when they are quite cold1 tie a skin1 or two folds of thick paper over it4 ,eschalots1 #a quart2 vinegar1 #a quart2 salt1 #a dessertspoonful2 whole white pepper1 #a oz4 ,obs4--,the sooner the eschalots are pickled after they are ripe and dry1 the better they will be4 ,,pickled ,,onions4 ,take the smallest onions that can be procured1#agc just after they are harvested1 for they are never in so good a state for the purpose as then2 proceed1 after having peeled them1 exactly as for the eschalots1 and when they begin to look clear1 which will be in three or four minutes1 put them into jars1 and pour the pickle on them4 ,the vinegar should be very pale1 and their colour will then be exceedingly well preserved4 ,any favourite spices can be added to it4 ,footnote #agc3 ,the ,reading onion is the proper kind for pickling4 ,,to ,,pickle ,,lemons1 ,,and ,,limes4 7,excellent47 ,wipe eight fine sound lemons very clean1 and make1 at equal distances1 four deep incisions in each1 from the stalk to the blossom end1 but without dividing the fruit2 stuff them with as much salt as they will contain1 lay them into a deep dish1 and place them in a sunny window1 or in some warm place for a week or ten days1 keeping them often turned and basted with their own liquor2 then rub them with some good pale turmeric1 and put them with their juice1 into a stone jar with a small head of garlic1 divided into cloves and peeled1 and a dozen small onions stuck with twice as many cloves4 ,boil in two quarts of white wine vinegar1 half a pound of ginger slightly bruised1 two ounces of whole black pepper1 and half a pound of mustard-seed2 take them from the fire and pour them directly on the lemons2 cover the jar with a plate1 and let them remain until the following day1 then add to the pickle half a dozen capsicums 7or a few chilies1 if more convenient71 and tie a skin and a fold of thick paper over the jar4 ,large lemons stuffed with salt1 #h3 #h to #aj days4 ,turmeric1 #a to #b oz42 ginger1 #a_/b lb42 mustard-seed1 #a_/b lb42 capsicums1 #f oz4 ,obs4--,the turmeric and garlic may1 we think1 be omitted from this pickle with advantage4 ,it will remain good for seven years if the lemons be kept well covered with vinegar3 that which is added to them should be boiled and then left till cold before it is poured into the jar4 ,they will not be fit for table in less than twelve months2 but if wanted for more immediate use1 set them for one night into a very cool oven3 they may then be eaten almost directly4 ,limes must have but slight incisions made in the rinds2 and they will be sufficiently softened in four or five days4 ,two ounces of salt only will be required for half a dozen2 and all which remains unmelted must1 with their juice1 be put into the jar with them before the vinegar is poured on3 this should be mixed with spice and mustard-seed1 and be boiling when it is added to the limes4 ,,lemon ,,mangoes4 7,author's ,original ,receipt47 ,all pickles of vegetables or fruit which have been emptied and filled with various ingredients1 are called in ,england mangoes1 having probably first been prepared in imitation of that fruit1 but none that we have ever tasted1 bearing the slightest resemblance to it4 ,young melons1 large cucumbers1 vegetable-marrow1 and peaches are all thus designated when prepared as we have described4 ,lemons may be converted into an excellent pickle of the same description in the following manner4 ,after having removed from the blossom end of each a circular bit of the rind about the size of a shilling1 proceed to scoop out all the pulp and skin with the handle of a teaspoon2 rinse the insides of the rinds until the water from them is clear2 throw them into plenty of brine made with half a pound of salt to two quarts of water1 and stir them down in it often during the time4 ,in three days change the brine1 and leave them for three days longer2 then drain them from it on a sieve1 fill them with bruised or whole mustard-seed1 very small chilies1 young scraped horseradish1 very small eschalots1 a little ginger sliced thin1 or aught else that may be liked4 ,sew in the parts that have been cut out1 lay the lemons into a stone jar1 and pour boiling on them a pickle made of their own juice1 which when they are first emptied should be squeezed from the pulp through a cloth1 and boiled with sufficient vinegar to keep it1--a large saltspoonful of salt1 half an ounce each of ginger and of white peppercorns1 and a blade or two of mace to every quart2 or prepare them like the whole lemons1 omitting the turmeric2 and soften them if wanted for immediate eating as directed for them4 ,they may be filled simply with mustard-seed1 horseradish1 and spice1 if preferred so4 ,this receipt has been in print before1 but without the author's name4 ,,to ,,pickle ,,nasturtiums4 ,these should be gathered quite young1 and a portion of the buds1 when very small1 should be mixed with them4 ,prepare a pickle by dissolving an ounce and a half of salt in a quart of pale vinegar1 and throw in the berries as they become fit1 from day to day4 ,they are used instead of capers for sauce1 and by some persons are preferred to them4 ,when purchased for pickling1 put them at once into a jar1 and cover them well with the vinegar4 ,,to ,,pickle ,,red ,,cabbage4 ,strip off the outer leaves1 wipe1 and slice a fine sound cabbage or two extremely thin1 sprinkle plenty of salt over them1 and let them drain in a sieve1 or on a strainer for twelve hours or more2 shake or press the moisture from them2 put them into clean stone jars1 and cover them well with cold vinegar1 in which an ounce of black pepper to the quart has been boiled4 ,some persons merely cover the vegetable with strong1 unboiled vinegar1 but this is not so well4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,chapter ,,xxvi4 ,cakes4 ,illustration3 ,modern ,cake ,mould4 ,,general ,,remarks ,,on ,,cakes4 ,illustration3 ,mould for ,buns4 ,,we have inserted here but a comparatively limited number of receipts for these 8sweet poisons10 as they have been emphatically called1 and we would willingly have diminished still further even the space which has been allotted to them1 that we might have had room in their stead for others of a more really useful character2 but we have felt reluctant to withdraw such a portion of any of the chapters as might materially alter the original character of the work1 or cause dissatisfaction to any of our kind readers2 we will therefore content ourselves with remarking1 that more illness is caused by habitual indulgence in the richer and heavier kinds of cakes than would easily be credited by persons who have given no attention to the subject4 ,amongst those which have the worst effects are almond1 and plum pound cakes1 as they are called2 all varieties of the brioche2 and such others as contain a large quantity of butter and eggs4 ,the least objectionable are simple buns1 biscuits1 yeast and sponge cakes1 and meringues2 these last being extremely light and delicate1 and made of white of egg and sugar only1 are really not unwholesome4 ,the ingredients for cakes1 as well as for puddings1 should all be fresh and good1 as well as free from damp2 the lightness of many kinds depends entirely on that given to the eggs by whisking1 and by the manner in which the whole is mixed4 ,a small portion of carbonate of soda1 which will not be in the slightest degree perceptible to the taste after the cake is baked1 if thrown in just before the mixture is put into the oven1 will ensure its rising well4 ,to guard against the bitterness so often imparted by yeast when it is used for cakes or biscuits1 it should be sparingly added1 and the sponge should be left twice the usual time to rise4 ,this method will be found to answer equally with bread4 ,for example3 should a couple of spoonsful of yeast be ordered in a receipt1 when it is bitter1 use but one1 and let it stand two hours instead of half the time3 the fermentation1 though slow1 will be quite as perfect as if it were more quickly effected1 and the cake or loaf thus made will not become dry by any means as soon as if a larger portion of yeast were mixed with it4 ,the ,german yeast when fresh is preferable to any other for all light cakes1 being made without hops and therefore never bitter4 ,all light cakes require a rather brisk oven to raise and set them2 very large rich ones a well-sustained degree of heat sufficient to bake them through2 and small sugar-cakes a slow oven1 to prevent their taking a deep colour before they are half done3 gingerbread1 too1 should be gently baked1 unless it be of the light thick kind4 ,meringues1 macaroons1 and ratafias1 will bear a slight degree more of heat than these4 ,for sponge and savoy cakes the moulds should be thickly and evenly buttered1 and fine sugar shaken in them until they are equally covered with it3 the loose sugar must be turned out before they are used4 ,to ascertain whether a cake be done1 thrust a larding needle or bright skewer into the centre1 and should this come out clean1 draw it from the oven directly2 but should the paste adhere to it1 continue the baking4 ,several sheets of paper are placed usually under large plum-cakes4 ,cakes are rendered heavy by moving or shaking them after they have risen in the oven1 and before they have become firm4 ,they should be gently loosened and turned from the moulds when sufficiently baked and set for a short time just at the mouth of the oven to dry the surface1 then laid upon their sides on a sieve until cold4 ,,to ,,blanch ,,and ,,to ,,pound ,,almonds4 ,put them into a saucepan with plenty of cold water1 and heat it slowly2 when it is just scalding turn the almonds into a basin1 peel1 and throw them into cold water as they are done3 dry them well in a soft cloth before they are used4 ,if the water be too hot it will turn them yellow4 ,almonds are more easily pounded1 and less liable to become oily1 if dried a little in a very gentle degree of heat after they are blanched2 left1 for example1 in a warm room for two or three days1 lightly spread on a large dish or tin4 ,they should be sprinkled during the beating with a few drops of cold water1 or white of egg1 or lemon-juice1 and pounded to a smooth paste3 this is more easily done1 we believe1 when they are first roughly chopped1 but we prefer to have them thrown at once into the mortar4 ,,to ,,reduce ,,almonds ,,to ,a ,,paste4 7,the quickest and easiest way47 ,chop them a little on a large and very clean trencher1 then with a paste roller 7rolling-pin71 which ought to be thicker in the middle than at the ends1 roll them well until no small bits are perceptible amongst them4 ,we have found this method answer admirably2 but as some of the oil is expressed from the almonds by it1 and absorbed by the board1 we would recommend a marble slab for them in preference1 when it is at hand2 and should they be intended for a sweet dish1 that some pounded sugar should be strewed under them4 ,when a board or strong trencher is used1 it should be rather higher in the middle than at the sides4 ,,to ,,colour ,,almonds ,,or ,,sugar-,,grains1 ,,or ,,sugar-,,candy1 ,,for ,,cakes1 ,,or ,,pastry4 ,blanch1 dry1 and chop them rather coarsely2 pour a little prepared cochineal into the hands1 and roll the almonds between them until they are equally coloured2 then spread them on a sheet of paper1 and place them in a very gentle degree of heat to dry4 ,use spinach-juice 7see page #dee71 to colour them green1 and a strong infusion of saffron to give them a yellow tint4 ,they have a pretty effect when strewed over the icing of tarts or cakes1 especially the rose-coloured ones1 which should be rather pale4 ,the sugar is prepared in the same way1 after being first broken into lumps1 and then1 with the end of a paste-roller1 into grains about the size of a pea2 but unless it be dry and hard1 and carefully done1 it will absorb too much of the cochineal3 when but slightly coloured it is very ornamental dropped on the borders of creamed tourtes1 or on other varieties of fine pastry4 ,white sugar-candy broken into large grains or crystals and coloured in the same manner has a yet better effect4 ,,to ,,prepare ,,butter ,,for ,,rich ,,cakes4 ,for all large and very rich cakes the usual directions are1 to beat the butter to a cream2 but we find that they are quite as light when it is cut small and gently melted with just so much heat as will dissolve it1 and no more4 ,if it be shaken round in a saucepan previously warmed1 and held near the fire for a short time1 it will soon be liquefied1 which is all that is required3 it must on no account be hot when it is added to the other ingredients1 to which it must be poured in small portions after they are all mixed1 in the way which we have minutely described in the receipt for a ,madeira cake1 and that of the ,sutherland puddings 7,chapter ,,xxi47 ,to cream it1 drain the water well from it after it is cut1 soften it a little before the fire should it be very hard1 and then with the back of a large strong wooden spoon beat it until it resembles thick cream4 ,when prepared thus1 the sugar is added to it first1 and then the other ingredients in succession4 ,for plum-cakes it is better creamed than liquefied1 as the fruit requires a paste of some consistence to prevent its sinking to the bottom of the mould in which it is baked4 ,for plain seed-cakes the more simple plan answers perfectly4 ,,to ,,whisk ,,eggs ,,for ,,light ,,rich ,,cakes4 ,break them one by one1 and separate the yolks from the whites3 this is done easily by pouring the yolk from one half of the shell to the other1 and letting the white drop from it into a basin beneath4 ,with a small three-pronged fork take out the specks from each egg as it is broken1 that none may accidentally escape notice4 ,whisk the yolks until they appear light1 and the whites until they are a quite solid froth2 while any liquid remains at the bottom of the bowl they are not sufficiently beaten3 when a portion of them1 taken up with the whisk1 and dropped from it1 remains standing in points1 they are in the proper state for use1 and should be mixed with the cake directly4 ,,sugar ,,glazings ,,and ,,icings4 7,for ,fine ,pastry and ,cakes47 ,the clear glaze which resembles barley sugar1 and which requires to be as carefully guarded from damp1 is given by just dipping the surface of the pastry into liquid caramel 7see ,chapter ,,xxvii472 or by sifting sugar thickly over it directly it is drawn from the oven1 and melting it down with a salamander1 or red-hot shovel held closely over it2 or by setting it again into an oven sufficiently heated to dissolve the sugar3 though this latter method is not so well1 as there is danger from it of the paste being scorched4 ,to make a fine white or coloured icing1 whisk1 as directed above1 the whites of four fresh eggs to a perfectly solid froth1 then1 with a wooden spoon or spatula1 mix gradually with them one pound of the best sugar1 which has been dried1 and sifted through a fine sieve3 work them together for a minute or two1 and add less than a dessertspoonful of strained lemon-juice2 spread it even over the cake or pastry1 and dry it very gently indeed1 either in a quite cool oven1 or in a meat screen placed before the fire4 ,from the difference in the size of eggs1 a little more or less of sugar may be required for this icing4 ,it may be coloured with a very few drops of prepared cochineal to give it a rose tint4 ,whites of eggs beaten to snow1 #d2 sugar1 #a lb42 lemon-juice1 small dessertspoonful4 ,,orange-,,flower ,,macaroons4 7,,delicious47 ,have ready two pounds of very dry white sifted sugar4 ,weigh two ounces of the petals of freshly gathered orange-blossoms after they have been picked from the stems2 and cut them very small with a pair of scissors into the sugar1 as they will become discoloured if not mixed with it quickly after they are cut4 ,when all are done1 add the whites of seven eggs1 and whisk the whole well together until it looks like snow2 then drop the mixture on paper without delay1 and send the cakes to a very cool oven4 ,pounded sugar1 #b lbs42 orange-blossoms1 #b oz42 whites of eggs1 #g3bj minutes or more4 ,obs4--,it is almost impossible to state with accuracy the precise time required for these cakes1 so much depends on the oven3 they should be very delicately coloured1 and yet dried through4 ,,almond ,,macaroons4 ,blanch a pound of fresh ,jordan almonds1 wipe them dry1 and set them into a very cool oven to render them perfectly so2 pound them to an exceedingly smooth paste1 with a little white of egg1 then whisk to a firm solid froth the white of seven eggs1 or of eight1 should they be small2 mix with them a pound and a half of the finest sugar2 add these by degrees to the almonds1 whisk the whole up well together1 and drop the mixture upon wafer-paper1 which may be procured at the confectioner's3 bake the cakes in a moderate oven a very pale brown4 ,it is an improvement to their flavour to substitute an ounce of bitter almonds for one of the sweet4 ,they are sometimes made with an equal weight of each2 and another variety of them is obtained by gently browning the almonds in a slow oven before they are pounded4 ,jordan almonds blanched1 #a lb42 sugar1 #a-a_/b lb42 whites of #g or #h eggs3 #ae to #bj minutes4 ,,very ,,fine ,,cocoa-,,nut ,,macaroons4 ,rasp a fresh cocoa-nut1 spread it on a dish or tin1 and let it dry gradually for a couple of days1 if it can be done conveniently2 add to it double its weight of fine sifted sugar1 and the whites of eight eggs beaten to a solid froth 7see page #edc71 to the pound4 ,roll the mixture into small balls1 place them on a buttered tin1 and bake them in a very gentle oven about twenty minutes4 ,move them from the tin while they are warm1 and store them in a very dry canister as soon as they are cold4 ,cocoa-nut1 #a_/b lb42 sugar1 #a lb42 whites of eggs1 #h3 very gentle oven1 #bj minutes4 ,,imperials4 7,,not ,,very ,,rich47 ,work into a pound of flour six ounces of butter1 and mix well with them half a pound of sifted sugar1 six ounces of currants1 two ounces of candied orange-peel1 the grated rind of a lemon1 and four well-beaten eggs4 ,flour a tin lightly1 and with a couple of forks place the paste upon it in small rough heaps quite two inches apart4 ,bake them in a very gentle oven1 from a quarter of an hour to twenty minutes1 or until they are equally coloured to a pale brown4 ,flour #a lb42 butter1 #f oz42 sugar1 #h oz42 currants1 #f oz42 candied peel1 #b oz42 rind of #a lemon2 eggs1 #d3 #ae to #bj minutes4 ,,fine ,,almond ,,cake4 ,blanch1 dry1 and pound to the finest possible paste1 eight ounces of fresh ,jordan almonds1 and one ounce of bitter2 moisten them with a few drops of cold water or white of egg1 to prevent their oiling2 then mix with them very gradually twelve fresh eggs which have been whisked until they are exceedingly light2 throw in by degrees one pound of fine1 dry1 sifted sugar1 and keep the mixture light by constant beating1 with a large wooden spoon1 as the separate ingredients are added4 ,mix in by degrees three-quarters of a pound of dried and sifted flour of the best quality2 then pour gently from the sediment a pound of butter which has been just melted1 but not allowed to become hot1 and beat it very gradually1 but very thoroughly1 into the cake1 letting one portion entirely disappear before another is thrown in2 add the rasped or finely-grated rinds of two sound fresh lemons1 fill a thickly-buttered mould rather more than half full with the mixture1 and bake the cake from an hour and a half to two hours in a well-heated oven4 ,lay paper over the top when it is sufficiently coloured1 and guard carefully against its being burned4 ,jordan almonds1 #a_/b lb42 bitter almonds1 #a oz42 eggs1 #ab2 sugar1 #a lb42 flour1 #c_/d lb42 butter1 #a lb42 rinds lemons1 #b3 #a-a_/b to #b hours4 ,obs4--,three-quarters of a pound of almonds may be mixed with this cake when so large a portion of them is liked1 but an additional ounce or two of sugar1 and one egg or more1 will then be required4 ,,plain ,,pound ,,or ,,currant ,,cake4 7,or rich ,brawn ,brack1 or ,borrow ,brack47 ,mix1 as directed in the foregoing receipt1 ten eggs 7some cooks take a pound in weight of these71 one pound of sugar1 one of flour1 and as much of butter4 ,for a plum-cake1 let the butter be worked to a cream2 add the sugar to it first1 then the yolks of the eggs1 next stir lightly in the whites1 after which1 add one pound of currants and the candied peel1 and1 last of all1 the flour by degrees1 and a glass of brandy when it is liked4 ,nearly or quite two hours' baking will be required for this1 and one hour for half the quantity4 ,to convert the above into the popular ,irish 8speckled bread10 or ,brawn ,brack of the richer kind1 add to it three ounces of carraway-seeds3 these are sometimes used in combination with the currants1 but more commonly without4 ,to ice a cake see the receipt for ,sugar ,glazings at the commencement of this ,chapter1 page #edc4 ,a rose-tint may be given to the icing with a little prepared cochineal1 as we have said there4 ,,rice ,,cake4 ,take six eggs1 with their weight in fine sugar1 and in butter also1 and half their weight of flour of rice1 and half of wheaten flour2 make the cake as directed for the ,madeira or almond cake1 but throw in the rice after the flour2 then add the butter in the usual way1 and bake the cake about an hour and ten minutes4 ,give any flavour that is liked4 ,the butter may be altogether omitted4 ,this is a moderate-sized cake4 ,eggs1 in the shell1 #f2 their weight in butter and in sugar2 half as much flour of rice1 and the same of wheaten flour3 #a hour1 #aj minutes4 ,,white ,,cake4 ,beat half a pound of fresh butter to a cream1 add to it an equal weight of dried and sifted sugar1 the yolks and whites of eight eggs1 separately whisked1 two ounces of candied orange-peel1 half a teaspoonful of mace1 a glass of brandy1 one pound of flour strewed in by degrees1 and last of all a pound and a quarter of currants4 ,directly it is mixed send the cake to a well-heated oven1 and bake it for two hours4 ,four ounces of pounded almonds are sometimes added to it4 ,butter1 #a_/b lb42 sugar1 #a_/b lb42 eggs1 #h2 mace1 #a_/b teaspoonful2 brandy1 #a wineglassful2 flour1 #a lb42 candied-peel1 #b oz42 currants1 #a-a_/b lb43 #b hours4 ,a ,,good ,,sponge ,,cake4 ,rasp on some lumps of well-refined sugar the rind of a fine sound lemon1 and scrape off the part which has imbibed the essence1 or crush the lumps to powder1 and add them to as much more as will make up the weight of eight or ten fresh eggs in the shell2 break these one by one1 and separate the whites from the yolks2 beat the latter in a large bowl for ten minutes1 then strew in the sugar gradually1 and beat them well together4 ,in the mean time let the whites be whisked to a quite solid froth1 add them to the yolks1 and when they are well blended sift and stir the flour gently to them1 but do not beat it into the mixture2 pour the cake into a well-buttered mould1 and bake it an hour and a quarter in a moderate oven4 ,rasped rind1 #a large lemon2 fresh eggs1 #h or #aj2 their weight of dry1 sifted sugar2 and half their weight of flour3 baked1 #a-a_/d hour1 moderate oven4 ,a ,,smaller ,,sponge ,,cake4 7,very good47 ,five full-sized eggs1 the weight of four in sugar1 and of nearly three in flour1 will make an exceedingly good cake3 it may be flavoured1 like the preceding one1 with lemon-rind1 or with bitter almonds1 vanilla1 or confected orange-blossoms reduced to powder4 ,an hour will bake it thoroughly4 ,all the ingredients for sponge cakes should be of good quality1 and the sugar and flour should be dry2 they should also be passed through a fine sieve kept expressly for such purposes4 ,the excellence of the whole depends much on the manner in which the eggs are whisked3 this should be done as lightly as possible1 but it is a mistake to suppose that they cannot be too long beaten1 as after they are brought to a state of perfect firmness they are injured by a continuation of the whisking1 and will at times curdle1 and render a cake heavy from this cause4 ,,fine ,,venetian ,,cake ,,or ,,cakes4 ,take of sound ,jordan almonds1 blanched and well dried at the mouth of a cool oven or in a sunny window1 seven ounces1 full weight1 and one of bitter almonds with them2 pound the whole to a perfect paste with a few drops of white of egg or orange-flower water2 then mix them thoroughly with one pound of flour and eight ounces of butter 7which should be cool and firm1 or it will render the paste too soft71 and break this down quite small2 then add eight ounces of pounded sugar1 on part of which the rind of a fine lemon has been rasped previously to its being crushed to powder4 ,make these into a paste with the yolks of four eggs1 or with rather less should they be large1 for if too moist1 it will adhere to the board and roller4 ,to make a ,venetian cake of moderate size1 roll the paste less than a quarter of an inch thick1 and cut with the larger fluted cutter1 shown at page #cgf1 six or seven portions of equal size2 lay them on lightly floured or buttered tins1 and bake them in a slow oven until they are firm and crisp1 and equally coloured of a pale brown4 ,should they seem to require it1 lay them one on the other1 while they are still warm1 and place a baking-tin1 with a slight weight upon them to render them quite level4 ,when they are cold1 spread upon each a different kind of choice preserve1 and pile the whole evenly into the form of an entire cake4 ,the top may be iced1 and decorated with pistachio-nuts1 or grains of coloured sugar1 or with a wreath of almond-paste leaves4 ,there are many varieties of this dish1 which is known by different names in different countries4 ,it is sometimes called a ,neapolitan ,cake1 sometimes a ,thousand ,leaf ,cake la ,franaise4 ,it is occasionally made entirely of almond-paste1 and highly decorated2 it may be formed also of many layers of puff or fine short crust cut of uniform size1 or gradually less1 so as to leave round each a clear border of an inch wide1 which may be covered with coloured icing1 or ornamented with preserved fruit1 tinted almonds1 grains of white or pink sugar candy1 or aught else that the fancy may direct4 ,to make the small ,venetian cakes1 roll the paste directed for the large one at the commencement of this receipt1 into balls1 flatten them with the hand to about the third of an inch thick1 brush them with beaten egg1 and cover them plentifully with white sugar-candy crushed about half the size of a pea3 bake them in a slow oven4 ,almonds1 #h oz42 flour1 #a lb42 butter1 #h oz42 sugar1 #a_/b lb42 rind of #a lemon2 yolks of eggs1 #c to #d2 preserve as needed4 ,a ,,good ,,madeira ,,cake4 ,whisk four fresh eggs until they are as light as possible1 then1 continuing still to whisk them1 throw in by slow degrees the following ingredients in the order in which they are written3 six ounces of dry1 pounded1 and sifted sugar2 six of flour1 also dried and sifted2 four ounces of butter just dissolved1 but not heated2 the rind of a fresh lemon2 and the instant before the cake is moulded1 beat well in the third of a teaspoonful of carbonate of soda3 bake it an hour in a moderate oven4 ,in this1 as in all compositions of the same nature1 observe particularly that each portion of butter must be beaten into the mixture until no appearance of it remains before the next is added2 and if this be done1 and the preparation be kept light by constant and light whisking1 the cake will be as good1 if not better1 than if the butter were creamed4 ,candied citron can be added to the paste1 but it is not needed4 ,eggs1 #d2 sugar1 #f oz42 flour1 #f oz42 butter1 #d oz42 rind of #a lemon2 carbonate of soda1 #a_/c of teaspoonful3 #a hour1 moderate oven4 ,a ,,solimemne4 ,a rich ,french breakfast cake1 or ,sally ,lunn4 ,from three-quarters of a pound of flour take three ounces for the leaven1 and make it into a lithe paste with half an ounce of solid1 well-washed yeast 7see ,chapter ,,xxxi471 mixed with two or three tablespoonsful of just warm cream1 or new milk2 throw a cloth over and leave it near the fire to rise for about half an hour1 or until it is twice its original size4 ,in the interim make a hollow in the centre of the remainder of the flour1 and put into it a quarter of an ounce of fine salt1 one ounce of pounded sugar1 the yolks of four fresh eggs1 four ounces of lukewarm butter1 and a couple of tablespoonsful of cream1 also warm4 ,mix the whole gently and carefully into a perfectly smooth paste1 flatten it with the hand upon the dresser1 spread the leaven over it1 and blend them thoroughly with light kneading1 as directed for brioche paste1 page #cdi4 ,the whole should be of the same colour throughout4 ,next1 put it into a small1 well-buttered copper stewpan1 or plain cake-mould1 and let it remain in a moderately warm place until it has risen1 like the leaven1 to double its original size2 then with a paste-brush or feather wash the top with beaten egg1 and without disturbing it1 set it into a tolerably quick oven1 and bake it nearly or quite an hour2 but do not allow it to be too deeply coloured4 ,turn it from the mould1 cut it once or twice asunder1 and pour over the slices plenty of good butter1 just dissolved in a small saucepan2 put the cake together again1 and serve it immediately4 ,it may be converted into an excellent entremets by spreading currant1 or other fine jelly1 or preserve1 quickly upon it when it is cut1 and sifting sugar thickly on the top after it is restored to its proper form3 it is then called a ,dresden cake4 ,we think that when left until cold and toasted1 the solimemne is even better than when served hot4 ,it will be many hours rising2 sometimes as many as six or eight4 ,if wanted for breakfast it should be made over night4 ,flour #c_/d lb42 yeast1 #a_/b oz42 little cream2 salt1 #a_/d oz42 sugar1 #a oz42 yolks of eggs1 #d2 butter1 #d oz43 to rise from #f to #h hours4 ,baked #a hour4 ,,banbury ,,cakes4 ,first1 mix well together a pound of currants1 cleaned with great nicety and dried1 a quarter-pound of beef suet1 finely minced1 three ounces each of candied orange and lemon-rind1 shred small1 a few grains of salt1 a full quarter-ounce of pounded cinnamon and nutmeg mixed1 and four ounces of macaroons or ratafias rolled to powder4 ,next1 make a light paste with fourteen ounces of butter to the pound of flour2 give it an extra turn or two to prevent its rising too much in the oven2 roll out one half in a very thin square1 and spread the mixed fruit and spice equally upon it2 moisten the edges1 lay on the remaining half of the paste1 rolled equally thin1 press the edges securely together1 mark the whole with the back of a knife in regular divisions of two inches wide and three in length1 bake the pastry in a well-heated oven from twenty-five to thirty minutes1 and divide it into cakes while it is still warm4 ,they may be served as a second course dish either hot or cold1 and may be glazed at pleasure4 ,currants1 #a lb42 beef-suet1 #d oz42 candied orange and lemon-rind each1 #c oz42 salt1 small pinch2 mixed spices1 #a_/d oz42 macaroons or ratafias1 #d oz43 baked #be to #cj minutes4 ,,meringues4 ,illustration ,whisk1 to the firmest possible froth1 the whites of six very fresh eggs1 taking every precaution against a particle of the yolk falling in amongst them4 ,lay some squares or long strips of writing-paper closely upon a board or upon very clean trenchers1 which ought to be nearly or quite an inch thick1 to prevent the meringues from receiving any colour from the bottom of the oven4 ,when all is ready1 mix with the eggs three-quarters of a pound of the finest sugar1 well dried1 and sifted2 stir them together for half a minute1 then with a table or dessertspoon lay the mixture quickly on the papers in the form of a half-egg1 sift sugar over them without delay1 blow off with the bellows all that does not adhere1 and set the meringues into a gentle oven4 ,the process must be expeditious1 or the sugar melting will cause the cakes to spread1 instead of retaining the shape of the spoon1 as they ought4 ,the whole art of making them1 indeed1 appears to us to consist in preserving their proper form1 and the larger the proportion of sugar worked into the eggs1 the more easily this will be done4 ,when they are coloured to a light brown1 and are firm to the touch1 draw them out1 turn the papers gently over1 separating the meringues from them1 and with a teaspoon scoop out sufficient of the insides to form a space for some whipped cream or preserve1 and put them again into the oven upon clean sheets of paper1 with the moist sides uppermost1 to dry3 when they are crisp through they are done4 ,let them become cold2 fill1 and then join them together with a little white of egg so as to give them the appearance shown in the plate4 ,spikes of pistachio nuts1 or almonds1 can be stuck over them1 as represented there1 at pleasure4 ,they afford always1 if well made1 a second course dish of elegant appearance1 and they are equally ornamental to breakfasts or suppers of ceremony4 ,they are made in perfection by the pastry-cooks in ,france1 being equally light1 delicate1 and delicious4 ,much of their excellence1 it must be observed1 depends at all times on the attention they receive in the baking1 as well as in the previous preparation4 ,they must1 of course1 be quite cold before the preserve or cream is laid into them4 ,from four to six ounces of almonds1 finely powdered1 may be smoothly mixed with the other ingredients for them2 and they may be flavoured with citron1 lemon1 or orange-rind by rasping the skins of the fruit with part of the sugar with which they are to be made2 then drying1 and reducing it to powder4 ,whites of very fresh eggs1 #f2 sugar1 #c_/d lb43 gentle oven1 #bj to #cj minutes4 ,,italian ,,meringues4 ,take for these the proportion of whites of eggs and sugar already indicated in the receipt for ,nesselrde pudding1 page #dia1 that is to say1 six to the pound1 or half that quantity for a small number of meringues4 ,boil the sugar with a pint of water until it whitens1 and begins to fall in flakes from the skimmer2 have the eggs whisked to a perfectly solid froth quite ready at the proper moment1 and when the sugar has stood for two or three minutes1 and been worked well from the sides of the pan1 mingle them gradually1 but very quickly1 with it1 that the mass may be quite smooth2 continue to stir them until they become firm enough to retain their shape perfectly when moulded with a teaspoon2 lay out the cakes on paper1 and place them in an oven so slow as to harden without giving them colour4 ,as they are not to be filled1 but merely fastened together1 they may be baked on tins4 ,part of them may be varied by the addition of three or four ounces of pounded almonds mixed thoroughly with the remainder of the eggs and sugar1 when a portion of the meringues have been moulded3 these1 however1 will require to be much longer baked than the others2 but they will be excellent4 ,they should be lightly browned1 and crisp quite through4 ,sugar1 #a lb42 water1 #a pint2 whites of eggs1 #f3 very slow oven1 #bj to #cj minutes1 or longer4 ,,thick1 ,,light ,,gingerbread4 ,crumble down very small1 eight ounces of butter into a couple of pounds of flour1 then add to1 and mix thoroughly with them1 half a pound of good brown sugar1 two ounces of powdered ginger1 and half an ounce of ground carraway-seeds2 beat gradually to these1 first two pounds of treacle1 next three well-whisked eggs1 and last of all half an ounce of carbonate of soda1#agd dissolved in a very small cupful of warm water2 stir the whole briskly together1 pour the mixture into very shallow tins1 put it immediately into a moderate oven1 and bake it for an hour and a half4 ,the gingerbread made thus will be remarkably light and good4 ,for children part of the spice and butter may be omitted4 ,footnote #agd3 ,this should always be of the very best quality when used for cakes4 ,carbonate of ammonia is recommended in preference to it by some writers4 ,flour1 #b lbs42 butter1 #h oz42 sugar1 #a_/b lb42 powdered ginger1 #b oz42 eggs1 #c2 carbonate of soda1 #a_/b oz42 water1 very small cupful3 baked #a-a_/b hour4 ,obs4--,we think that something less than the half ounce of soda would be sufficient for this gingerbread1 for with the whole quantity it rises in the oven to three times its height1 and is apt to run over the tops of the tins1 even when they are but half filled with it at first2 or if it were well beaten into the mass without any water1 after being carefully freed from lumps and mixed with a little sugar1 the cake would still be quite light4 ,,acton ,,gingerbread4 ,whisk four strained or well-cleared eggs to the lightest possible froth 7,french eggs1 if really sweet1 will answer for the purpose71 and pour to them1 by degrees1 a pound and a quarter of treacle1 still beating them lightly4 ,add1 in the same manner1 six ounces of pale brown sugar free from lumps1 one pound of sifted flour1 and six ounces of good butter1 just sufficiently warmed to be liquid1 and no more1 for if hot1 it would render the cake heavy2 it should be poured in small portions to the mixture1 which should be well beaten up with the back of a wooden spoon as each portion is thrown in3 the success of the cake depends almost entirely on this part of the process4 ,when properly mingled with the mass1 the butter will not be perceptible on the surface2 and if the cake be kept light by constant whisking1 large bubbles will appear in it to the last4 ,when it is so far ready1 add to it one ounce of ,jamaica ginger and a large teaspoonful of cloves in fine powder1 with the lightly grated rinds of two fresh full-sized lemons4 ,butter thickly1 in every part1 a shallow square tin pan1 and bake the gingerbread slowly for nearly or quite an hour in a gentle oven4 ,let it cool a little before it is turned out1 and set it on its edge until cold1 supporting it1 if needful1 against a large jar or bowl4 ,we have usually had it baked in an ,american oven1 in a tin less than two inches deep2 and it has been excellent4 ,we retain the name given to it originally in our own circle4 ,,cheap ,,and ,,very ,,good ,,ginger ,,oven-,,cake ,,or ,,cakes4 ,four ,french eggs 7which must be perfectly sweet1 or small ,english ones71 six ounces of brown sugar of good quality rolled smooth and fine1 six ounces of flour1 three of butter1 a grain or two of salt1 some grated lemon-rind or candied peel sliced very thin1 and half an ounce or more of ginger in fine powder4 ,prepare and mix these ingredients in the order in which they are written1 by the directions for 8,acton ,gingerbread40 ,bake the cake nearly the same time4 ,an ,american oven will answer for it perfectly1 and it will resemble a really rich cake1 though so cheap4 ,a small quantity of carbonate of soda may be added quite at last by inexpert cake-makers1 to insure its being light4 ,the same mixture may be baked in small cups or tins in an iron oven4 ,for a cake of tolerable size half as much again of the ingredients must be taken1 and the whole poured into a round or square cake-mould4 ,,good ,,common ,,gingerbread4 ,work very smoothly six ounces of fresh butter 7or some that has been well washed from the salt1 and wrung dry in a cloth7 into one pound of flour1 and mix with them thoroughly an ounce of ginger in fine powder1 four ounces of brown sugar1 and half a teaspoonful of beaten cloves and mace4 ,wet these with three-quarters of a pound of cold treacle1 or rather more1 if needful2 roll out the paste1 cut the cakes with a round tin cutter1 lay them on a floured or buttered baking tin1 and put them into a very slow oven4 ,lemon-grate or candied peel can be added1 when it is liked4 ,flour1 #a lb42 butter1 #f oz42 sugar1 #a_/d lb42 ginger1 #a oz42 cloves and mace1 #a_/b teaspoonful2 treacle1 #c_/d lb43 #a_/b to #c_/d hour4 ,,richer ,,gingerbread4 ,melt together three-quarters of a pound of treacle and half a pound of fresh butter1 and pour them hot on a pound of flour mixed with half a pound of sugar and three-quarters of an ounce of ginger4 ,when the paste is quite cold1 roll it out with as much more flour as will prevent its adhering to the board3 bake the cakes in a very gentle oven4 ,,cocoa-,,nut ,,gingerbread4 7,original ,receipts47 ,mix well together ten ounces of fine wheaten flour1 and six of flour of rice 7or rice ground to powder71 the grated rind of a lemon1 and three-quarters of an ounce of ginger3 pour nearly boiling upon these a pound of treacle1 five ounces of fresh butter1 and five of sugar1 melted together in a saucepan2 beat the mixture1 which will be almost a batter1 with a wooden spoon1 and when quite smooth leave it until it is perfectly cold1 then add to it five ounces of grated cocoa-nut1 and when it is thoroughly blended with the other ingredients1 lay the paste in small heaps upon a buttered tin1 and bake them in very slow oven from half to three-quarters of an hour4 ,flour1 #aj oz42 ground rice1 #f oz42 rind of #a lemon2 ginger1 #c_/d oz42 treacle1 #a lb42 sugar1 #e oz42 butter1 #e oz42 cocoa-nut1 #e oz43 #a_/b to #c_/d hour4 ,or3 ,flour1 #a_/b lb42 ground rice1 #a_/b lb42 ginger1 #c_/d oz42 rind of #a lemon2 butter1 #e oz42 sugar1 #e oz42 treacle1 #a lb42 cocoa-nut1 #f-a_/b oz4 ,obs4--,the cakes made by them are excellent4 ,a ,,delicious ,,cream-,,cake ,,and ,,sweet ,,rusks4 ,when in very sultry weather cream becomes acid from being sent to a distance1 or from other causes1 it may still be made available for delicate pastry-crust1 and superlative cakes1 biscuits1 and bread2 but if ever so slightly putrid it will be fit only to be thrown away4 ,the following receipt is given exactly as it was used with perfect success on the thought of the moment1 when we first had it tried4 ,crumble down five ounces of good butter into a pound of fine flour1 then mix thoroughly with them half a pound of sifted sugar1 a few grains of salt1 and two ounces of candied citron or orange-rind sliced thin2 add something more than half a pint of thick and rather sour cream mixed with two well whisked eggs1 and just before the paste is put into the moulds1 which should be buttered in every part and only two-thirds filled1 beat thoroughly into it half a teaspoonful of the very best carbonate of soda1 which has been perfectly blended with twice the quantity of sugar and of flour1 and rubbed through a fine sieve1 or worked to the smoothest powder in a mortar1 or in any other way4 ,for the convenience of having it baked in a small iron oven1 this quantity was divided into two cakes1 one of which was gently pulled apart with a couple of forks while still hot1 and then set again into the oven and crisped with a gentle heat quite through3 it was thus converted into the very nicest sweet rusks4 ,sufficient cream should be used for the cakes to convert the ingredients into a very lithe paste or thick batter1 which can be properly worked or mixed with a wooden spoon1 with the back of which it should be very lightly beaten up before it is moulded4 ,about three-quarters of an hour will bake it in a moderate oven4 ,it should be firm on the surface--as all light cakes should be--that it may not sink and become heavy after it is drawn out4 ,turn it from the mould1 and lay it on its side upon a sieve reversed1 to cool4 ,a ,,good ,,light ,,luncheon-,,cake ,,and ,,brown ,,brack4 ,break down four ounces of butter into a couple of pounds of flour1 and work it quite into crumbs1 but handle it very lightly2 mix in a pinch of salt and four ounces of pounded sugar2 hollow the centre1 and stir into it a large tablespoonful of solid well-washed yeast 7or an ounce of ,german yeast which will ferment more quickly71 diluted with three-quarters of a pint of warm new milk2 when sufficient of the surrounding flour is mixed with it to form a thick batter strew more flour on the top1 lay a cloth once or twice folded together over the pan1 and let it remain until the leaven has become very light3 this it will generally be in an hour and a quarter1 or1 at the utmost1 in an hour and a half4 ,the fermentation may be quickened by increasing the proportion of yeast1 but this is better avoided1 as it may chance to render the cake bitter2 additional time1 however1 must always be allowed for it to rise when but a small quantity is used4 ,when the leaven is at the proper height1 add to a couple of well whisked eggs1 sufficient nearly-boiling milk to warm them1 and mix them with the other ingredients2 then beat well into the cake by degrees1 eight ounces more of pounded sugar1 and half a grated nutmeg2 cut from two to three ounces of candied citron thin1 and strew over it2 leave it again to rise1 as before1 for about three-quarters of an hour2 mix the citron equally with it1 put it into a thickly buttered tin or earthen pan1 and bake it in a quick oven for an hour and ten minutes at the least1 and after it is placed in it let it not be moved until it is quite set1 or it will possibly be heavy at the top4 ,the grated rinds of a couple of lemons will improve its flavour4 ,fine ,lisbon sugar can be used to sweeten it instead of pounded1 but the difference of expense would be very slight1 and the cake would not be so good2 the quantity can1 of course1 be diminished when it is considered too much4 ,three-quarters of a pound of currants can1 at choice1 be substituted for the citron4 ,three ounces of carraway seeds will convert it into common brown brack1 or ,irish seed-cake4 ,for the manner of purifying yeast1 see ,chapter ,,xxxi4 ,a ,,very ,,cheap ,,luncheon ,,biscuit1 ,,or ,,nursery ,,cake4 ,two or three pounds of white bread dough taken when ready for the oven1 will make a good light biscuit if well managed1 with the addition of from half to three-quarters of a pound of sugar1 a very small quantity of butter1 and a few currants1 or carraway-seeds1 or a teaspoonful of mixed spices4 ,the dough should be rather firm2 the butter should first be well kneaded into it in small portions1 then the sugar added in the same way1 and next the currants or spice4 ,the whole should be perfectly and equally mingled1 flour being slightly dredged upon it as it is worked1 if needful4 ,it must then be allowed to rise until it is very light1 when it should again be kneaded down1 but not heavily2 and when it has once more risen1 it should be sent without delay to the oven4 ,an ounce of butter to the pound of dough will be sufficient for it4 ,much richer cakes can be made thus1 and they will be extremely good if care be taken to let them rise sufficiently before they are baked4 ,we regret that we cannot multiply our receipts for them4 ,sultana raisins are an excellent substitute for currants in these and other common cakes4 ,,isle ,,of ,,wight ,,dough-,,nuts4 ,work smoothly together with the fingers four ounces of good lard1 and four pounds of flour2 add half a pound of fine brown sugar1 two tablespoonsful of allspice1 one drachm of pounded cinnamon1 half as much of cloves1 two large blades of mace1 beaten to powder1 two tablespoonsful of fresh yeast which has been watered for one night1 and which should be solid1 and as much new milk as will make the whole into a rather firm dough2 let this stand from an hour to an hour and a half near the fire1 then knead it well1 and make it into balls about the size of a small apple2 hollow them with the thumb1 and enclose a few currants in the middle2 gather the paste well over them1 and throw the dough-nuts into a saucepan half filled with boiling lard2 when they are equally coloured to a fine brown1 lift them out and dry them before the fire on the back of a sieve4 ,when they are made in large quantities1 as they are at certain seasons in the island1 they are drained upon very clean straw4 ,the lard should boil only just before they are dropped into it1 or the outsides will be scorched before the insides are sufficiently done4 ,flour1 #d lbs42 lard1 #d oz42 sugar1 #a_/b lb42 allspice1 #b tablespoonsful2 pounded cinnamon1 #a drachm2 cloves and mace1 each #a_/b drachm2 yeast 7solid71 two large tablespoonsful3 to rise1 #a to #a-a_/b hour4 ,currants1 at choice3 dough-nuts boiled in lard1 #e to #g minutes4 ,,queen ,,cakes4 ,to make these1 proceed exactly as for the pound currant-cake of page #edf1 but bake the mixture in small well-buttered tin pans 7heart-shaped ones are usual71 in a somewhat brisk oven1 for about twenty minutes4 ,,jumbles4 ,rasp on some good sugar the rinds of two lemons2 dry1 reduce it to powder1 and sift it with as much more as will make up a pound in weight2 mix with it one pound of flour1 four well-beaten eggs1 and six ounces of warm butter3 drop the mixture on buttered tins1 and bake the jumbles in a very slow oven from twenty to thirty minutes4 ,they should be pale1 but perfectly crisp4 ,a ,,good ,,soda ,,cake4 ,break down half a pound#age of fresh butter into a pound of fine dry flour1 and work it into very small crumbs2 mix well with these half a pound of sifted sugar1 and pour to them first1 a quarter of a pint of boiling milk1 and next1 three well-whisked eggs2 add some grated nutmeg1 or fresh lemon-rind1 and eight ounces of currants1 cleaned and dried2 beat the whole well and lightly together1 then strew in a very small teaspoonful of good carbonate of soda in the finest powder1 which has been rubbed through a sieve and well mixed with a little sugar1 and again beat the cake well and lightly for three or four minutes2 put it into a buttered mould1 and bake it from an hour to an hour and a quarter2 or divide it in two1 when three-quarters of an hour will be sufficient for each part4 ,footnote #age3 ,six ounces would to many tastes be quite sufficient1 and the less butter the cake contains the better4 ,flour1 #a lb42 butter1 #a_/b lb42 sugar1 #a_/b lb42 boiling milk1 full #a_/d pint2 eggs1 #c2 currants1 #a_/b lb42 good carbonate of soda1 #a very small teaspoonful3 #a to #a-a_/b hour4 ,or3 divided in two1 #a_/b to #c_/d hour4 ,obs4--,this1 if carefully made1 resembles a pound cake1 but is much less expensive1 and far more wholesome1 while it has the advantage of being very expeditiously prepared4 ,great care1 however1 must be taken to avoid mixing with it too large a proportion1 or a coarse quality of soda2 as either will impart to it a far from agreeable flavour4 ,,good ,,scottish ,,shortbread4 ,with one pound of flour mix well two ounces of sifted sugar1 and one of candied orange-rind or citron1 sliced small2 make these into a paste with from eight to nine ounces of good butter1 made sufficiently warm to be liquid2 press the paste together with the hands1 and mould it upon tins into large cakes nearly an inch thick1 pinch the edges1 and bake the shortbread in a moderate oven for twenty minutes1 or longer1 should it not be quite crisp1 but do not allow it to become deeply coloured4 ,flour1 #a lb42 sugar1 #b oz42 candied orange or citron1 #a oz42 butter1 #h to #i oz43 #bj minutes or more4 ,obs4--,this1 to many persons1 is a very indigestible compound1 though agreeable to the taste4 ,a ,,galette4 ,the galette is a favourite cake in ,france1 and may be made rich and comparatively delicate1 or quite common1 by using more or less butter for it1 and by augmenting or diminishing the size4 ,work lightly three-quarters of a pound of good butter into a pound of flour1 add a large saltspoonful of salt1 and make these into a paste with the yolks of a couple of eggs mixed with a small cupful of good cream1 or simply with water2 roll this into a complete round1 three-quarters of an inch thick2 score it in small diamonds1 brush yolk of egg over the top1 and bake the galette for about half an hour in a tolerably quick oven3 it is usually eaten hot1 but is served cold also4 ,an ounce of sifted sugar is sometimes added to it4 ,a good galette3 flour1 #a lb42 butter1 #c_/d lb42 salt1 #a saltspoonful2 yolks of eggs1 #b2 cream1 small cupful3 baked #a_/b hour4 ,common galette3 flour1 #b lbs42 butter1 #c_/d to #a lb42 no eggs4 ,,small ,,sugar ,,cakes ,,of ,,various ,,kinds4 ,to make very sweet rich sugar cakes mingle1 first working it very small with the fingers1 half a pound of butter with each pound of flour3 if more than this proportion be used the paste will be too soft to permit the addition of the proper number of eggs4 ,next1 blend thoroughly with these three-quarters of a pound of dry sifted sugar1 and the grated rinds of two small fresh lemons 7for lemon-cakes the strained juice of one is generally added71 or a dessertspoonful of cinnamon freshly pounded2 or from one ounce to two ounces of carraway-seeds2 or a similar proportion of the finest powdered ginger2 or three-quarters of a pound of very dry well cleaned currants4 ,a slight pinch of salt should be thrown in with the sugar4 ,if to be made into flat cakes proceed to moisten these ingredients gradually with from two eggs to four slightly whisked1 and when they form a firm paste1 proceed quickly to roll and to stamp them out with a cake tin2 for as the sugar dissolves with the moisture of the eggs1 the paste will otherwise become so lithe as to adhere to the board and roller4 ,when it is to be merely dropped on the baking-sheets1 it will require an additional egg or more4 ,the cakes should then be placed quite two inches apart1 as they will spread in the baking4 ,five ounces of butter with six of sugar to the pound of flour1 two large eggs1 and a small quantity of milk1 will be sufficient for quite cheap sugar cakes3 any flavour can be given to them as to those which precede1 and they can be rendered more or less sweet to the taste by altering the proportion of sugar3 this should always be sifted1 or at least reduced quite to powder1 before it is used for them4 ,one ounce more of butter will render them very good4 ,they should be rolled a quarter of an inch thick4 ,rich3 to each lb4 of flour1 butter1 #a_/b lb42 sugar1 #c_/d lb42 eggs1 #b to #d4 7,lemon-rinds1 cinnamon1 carraway-seeds1 or ginger1 or currants at choice71 small pinch of salt4 ,slow oven about #bj minutes4 ,obs4--,the cakes should be but lightly coloured1 and yet baked quite through4 ,,fleed ,,or ,,flead ,,cakes4 ,these are very much served as a tea-cake at the tables of the superior order of ,kentish farmers4 ,for the mode of making them1 proceed as for flead-crust 7see ,chapter ,,xvi472 cut the cakes small with a round cutter1 and leave them more than half an inch thick3 if well made they will rise much in the oven4 ,bake them rather quickly1 but keep them pale4 ,flour1 #b lbs42 flead1 #a-a_/d lb42 butter1 #f oz43 baked #aj to #ae minutes4 ,,light ,,buns ,,of ,,different ,,kinds4 ,quite plain buns without butter4--,very good light buns may be made entirely without butter1 but they must be tolerably fresh when served4 ,to make them1 dilute very smoothly an ounce of sweet ,german yeast or a large tablespoonful of quite solid and well washed ,english yeast with a pint of warm new milk2 mix this immediately with as much flour as it will convert into a rather thick batter1 throw a double cloth over the pan1 and place it where the warmth of the fire will search1 without heating it4 ,when it is well risen and bubbles appear on the top1 add a little salt1 some pounded sugar1 and as much flour as will form it into a light dough4 ,leave it to rise again1 when it will probably be too little firm for moulding with the fingers1 and must be beaten up with a strong wooden spoon and put into cups or tin pans slightly buttered1 to be baked4 ,the buns should be sent to a quick oven1 and baked until the entire surface is well browned4 ,these directions may appear to the reader somewhat vague2 but we must frankly state that we have no precise memorandum by us of this receipt1 though we have had buns made by it very successfully in former years3 we cannot1 however1 exactly recall the proportion of flour which was used for them1 but believe it was about two pounds4 ,for this quantity half a pound of sugar would be sufficient4 ,the batter will be a long time rising to the proper height2 an hour and a half or two hours4 ,currants1 carraways1 nutmeg1 or mixed spices1 can always be added at discretion4 ,it is usual to strew a few currants on the tops of the buns before they are baked4 ,to render them richer and firmer1 it is merely necessary to diminish the proportion of milk1 and to crumble up very small two or more ounces of butter in the flour which is added to the batter after it has risen4 ,when again quite light1 the dough may then be rolled into balls1 and placed on flat tins some inches apart until they have spread to the proper shape4 ,confectioners generally wash the tops with milk1 and sift a little sugar over them4 ,exeter ,buns4--,these are somewhat celebrated in the city whose name they bear1 especially those of one maker whose secret for them we have recently obtained4 ,instead of being made into a dough with milk1 ,devonshire cream is used for them1 either entirely or in part4 ,if very thick1 a portion of water should be added to it1 or the yeast would not ferment freely4 ,the better plan is to dilute it with a quarter of a pint or rather more of warm water1 and when it is sufficiently risen to make up the buns lightly1 like bread1 with the cream1 which must also be warm2 then to proceed by the receipt given above4 ,,plain ,,dessert ,,or ,,wine ,,biscuits1 ,,and ,,ginger ,,biscuits4 ,rub very small indeed1 two ounces of fresh butter into a pound of flour1 and make it into a stiff paste with new milk4 ,roll it out half an inch thick1 and cut the biscuits with a round cutter the size of half-a-crown4 ,pile them one on the other until all are done2 then roll them out very thin1 prick them1 and lay them on lightly-floured tins1 the pricked side downwards3 a few minutes will bake them1 in a moderate oven4 ,they should be very crisp1 and but slightly browned4 ,for the ,ginger ,biscuits4--,three ounces of good butter1 with two pounds of flour1 then add three ounces of pounded sugar and two of ginger in fine powder1 and knead them into a stiff paste1 with new milk4 ,roll it thin1 stamp out the biscuits with a cutter1 and bake them in a slow oven until they are crisp quite through1 but keep them of a pale colour4 ,a couple of eggs are sometimes mixed with the milk for them1 but are no material improvement3 an additional ounce of sugar may be used when a sweeter biscuit is liked4 ,plain biscuits3 flour #a lb42 butter1 #b oz42 new milk about #a_/b pint4 ,ginger biscuits3 flour1 #b lbs42 butter1 #c oz42 sugar1 #c oz42 ginger1 #b oz4 ,,threadneedle ,,street ,,biscuits4 ,mix with two pounds of sifted flour of the very best quality three ounces of good butter1 and work it into the smallest possible crumbs2 add four ounces of fine1 dry1 sifted sugar1 and make them into a firm paste with new milk2 beat this forcibly for some time with a rolling-pin1 and when it is extremely smooth roll it the third of an inch thick1 cut it with a small square cutter1 and bake the biscuits in a very slow oven until they are crisp to the centre3 no part of them should remain soft4 ,half a teaspoonful of carbonate of soda is said to improve them1 but we have not put it to the test4 ,carraway-seeds can be added when they are liked4 ,flour1 #b lbs42 butter1 #c oz42 sugar1 #d oz42 new milk1 #a pint or more3 biscuits slowly baked until crisp4 ,,good ,,captain',s ,,biscuits4 ,make some fine white flour into a very smooth paste with new milk2 divide it into small balls2 roll them out1 and afterwards pull them with the fingers as thin as possible2 prick them all over1 and bake them in a somewhat brisk oven from ten to twelve minutes4 ,these are excellent and very wholesome biscuits4 ,,the ,,colonel',s ,,biscuits4 ,mix a slight pinch of salt with some fine sifted flour2 make it into a smooth paste with thin cream1 and bake the biscuits gently1 after having prepared them for the oven like those which precede4 ,store them as soon as they are cold in a dry canister1 to preserve them crisp3 they are excellent4 ,,aunt ,,charlotte',s ,,biscuits4 ,these biscuits1 which are very simple and very good1 may be made with the same dough as fine white bread1 with the addition of from half to a whole ounce of butter to the pound kneaded into it after it has risen4 ,break the butter small1 spread out the dough a little1 knead it in well and equally1 and leave it for about half an hour to rise2 then roll it a quarter of an inch thick1 prick it well all over1 cut out the biscuits1 and bake them in a moderate oven from ten to fifteen minutes3 they should be crisp quite through1 but not deeply coloured4 ,white-bread dough1 #b lbs42 butter1 #a to #b oz43 to rise #a_/b hour4 ,baked in moderate oven #aj to #ae minutes4 ,obs4--,to make the biscuits by themselves1 proceed as for ,bordyke bread2 but use new milk for them1 and work three ounces of butter into two pounds of flour before the yeast is added4 ,,excellent ,,soda ,,buns4 ,work into half a pound of flour three ounces of butter1 until it is quite in crumbs2 mix thoroughly with them four ounces of sugar1 the slightest pinch of salt1 an ounce1 or rather more1 of candied orange or1 shred extremely small1 and a little grated nutmeg2 to these pour boiling a small teacupful of cream1 or of milk when this cannot be had2 mix them a little1 and add immediately two eggs1 leaving out the white of one1 and when the whole is well mingled1 dust over1 and beat well into it1 less than half a teaspoonful of good carbonate of soda1 perfectly free from lumps2 rub an oven-tin with butter1 drop the buns upon it with a spoon1 and send them to a moderate oven4 ,when they are firm to the touch in every part1 and well coloured underneath1 they are done4 ,they resemble good cakes1 if properly made1 although in reality they are not rich3 to render them so the proportion of sugar and of butter can be increased1 and currants added also4 ,it is immaterial1 we find1 whether they be put into the oven as soon as they are mixed1 or an hour afterwards4 ,they are equally light4 ,these proportions make just a dozen of small buns4 ,flour1 #a_/b lb42 butter1 #c oz42 sugar1 #d oz42 candied orange-rind1 #a oz4 or more2 grated nutmeg2 cream 7or milk7 #a small teacupful2 egg-yolks #b1 white #a2 good carbonate of soda about the third of a teaspoonful3 #ae to #be minutes1 moderate oven4 ,for ,geneva ,buns ,see ,chapter #cj4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,chapter ,,xxvii4 ,confectionary4 ,illustration3 ,citron4 ,,to ,,clarify ,,sugar4 ,,it is an economy to use at once the very best sugar for confectionary in general1 for when highly refined it needs little or no clarifying1 even for the most delicate purposes2 and the coarser kinds lose considerable weight in the process4 ,break it into large lumps1 and put it into a very clean preserving-pan2 measure for each pound a pint of spring water if it be intended for syrup1 but less than half that quantity for candying or making barley-sugar4 ,beat first apart 7but not to a strong froth71 and afterwards with the water1 about half the white of an egg for six pounds of sugar1 unless it should be very common1 when twice as much may be used4 ,when they are well mixed pour them over the sugar1 and let it stand until it is nearly dissolved2 then stir the whole thoroughly1 and place it over a gentle fire1 but do not disturb it after the scum begins to gather on the top2 let it boil for five minutes1 then take the pan from the fire1 and when it has stood a couple of minutes clear off the scum entirely1 with a skimmer2 set the pan again over the fire1 and when the sugar begins to boil throw in a little cold water1 which has been reserved for the purpose from the quantity first measured1 and repeat the skimming until the syrup is very clear2 it may then be strained through a muslin1 or a thin cloth1 and put into a clean pan for further boiling4 ,for syrup3 sugar1 #f lbs42 water1 #c quarts2 #a_/b white of #a egg4 ,for candying1 c43 sugar1 #f lbs42 water1 #b-a_/b pints3 #e to #aj minutes4 ,,to ,,boil ,,sugar ,,from ,,syrup ,,to ,,candy1 ,,or ,,to ,,caramel4 ,the technicalities by which confectioners distinguish the different degrees of sugar-boiling1 seem to us calculated rather to puzzle than to assist the reader2 and we shall1 therefore1 confine ourselves to such plain ,english terms as may suffice1 we hope1 to explain them4 ,after having boiled a certain time1 the length of which will in a measure depend upon the quality of the sugar as well as on the quantity of water added1 it becomes a thin syrup1 and will scarcely form a short thread if a drop be pressed between the thumb and finger and they are then drawn apart2 from five to ten minutes more of rapid boiling will bring it to a thick syrup1 and when this degree is reached the thread may be drawn from one hand to the other at some length without breaking2 but its appearance in dropping from the skimmer will perhaps best denote its being at this point1 as it hangs in a sort of string as it falls4 ,after this the sugar will soon begin to whiten1 and to form large bubbles in the pan1 when1 if it be intended for barley-sugar1 or caramel1 some lemon-juice or other acid must be added to it1 to prevent its graining or becoming sugar again2 but if wanted to candy1 it must be stirred without ceasing until it rises almost to the top of the pan1 in one large white mass1 when it must be used immediately or laded out into paper cases or on to dishes1 with the utmost expedition1 as it passes in an instant almost1 from this state to one in which it forms a sort of powder1 which will render it necessary to add water1 to stir it until dissolved1 and to reboil it to the proper point4 ,for barley-sugar likewise it must be constantly stirred1 and carefully watched after the lemon-juice is added4 ,a small quantity should be dropped from time to time into a large basin of cold water by those who are inexperienced in the process2 when in falling into this it makes a bubbling noise1 and if taken out immediately after1 it snaps clean between the teeth without sticking to them1 it must be poured out instantly3 if wanted for sugar-spinning1 the pan must be plunged as quickly as possible into a vessel of cold water4 ,,caramel4 7,the quickest way47 ,put into a brass skillet1 or preserving-pan1 some sifted sugar of the finest quality1 and stir it softly with a wooden spoon or spatula1 over a very gentle fire until it has become liquid2 a pale or a deep tint may then be given to it1 according to the purpose for which it is required3 so soon as it is entirely melted1 and looks clear1 it is ready for use4 ,pastry-cooks glaze small pastry by just dipping the surface into it2 and they use it also for nougat1 and other confectionary1 though it is not in general quite so brilliant as that which is made by the preceding receipt4 ,when the sugar first begins to melt1 it should be stirred only just in that part1 or it will not be equally coloured4 ,,barley-,,sugar4 ,add to three pounds of highly-refined sugar one pint and a quarter of spring water1 with sufficient white of egg to clarify it in the manner directed in the last page but one2 pour to it1 when it begins to whiten1 and to be very thick1 a dessertspoonful of the strained juice of a fresh lemon2 and boil it quickly until it is at the point which we have indicated above4 ,a few drops of essence of lemon may be added to it1 just as it is taken from the fire4 ,pour it on to a marble slab1 or on to a shallow dish which has been slightly oiled1 or rubbed with a particle of fresh butter2 and when it begins to harden at the edges form it into sticks1 lozenges1 balls1 or any other shapes at pleasure4 ,while it is still liquid it may be used for various purposes1 such as ,chantilly baskets1 palace bonbons1 croquantes1#agf cerises au caramel1 c43 for these the vessel containing it must be set into a pan of water1 and it must again be liquefied with a very gentle degree of heat should it cool too quickly4 ,as it soon dissolves if exposed to damp1 it should be put into very dry canisters as soon as it is cold1 and these should be kept in a dry place4 ,footnote #agf3 ,these are formed of small cakes1 roasted chestnuts1 and various other things1 just dipped singly into the barley-sugar1 and then arranged in good form and joined in a mould1 from which they are turned out for table4 ,best sugar1 #c lbs42 water1 #a-a_/d pint2 white of egg1 #a_/d of #a2 lemon-juice1 #a dessertspoonful4 ,,nougat4 ,this is a preparation of barley-sugar1 and almonds1 filberts1 or pistachio-nuts1 of which good confectioners1 both foreign and ,english1 make a great variety of highly ornamental dishes4 ,we must1 however1 confine our directions to the most common and simple mode of serving it4 ,blanch twelve ounces of fine ,jordan almonds in the usual way1 wipe them very dry1 split them in halves1 and spread them upon tins or dishes2 dry them in a very gentle oven1 without allowing them to brown2 or if the flavour be liked better so1 let them be equally coloured to a pale gold tint3 they should then be often turned while in the oven4 ,boil to barley sugar in a small preserving-pan six ounces of highly-refined sugar1 throw in the almonds1 mix them with it well without breaking them1 turn the nougat on to a dish slightly rubbed with oil1 spread it out quickly1 mark it into squares1 and cut it before it is cold2 or pour it into a mould1 and with an oiled lemon spread it quickly1 and very thin over it1 and turn it out when cool4 ,it must at all times be carefully preserved from damp2 and should be put into a dry tin box as soon as it is cold4 ,sugar1 #f oz42 almonds1 #ab oz4 ,another and more expeditious way of making it1 is to boil the sugar to caramel without any water1 as directed at page #efc3 the proportion of almonds can be diminished at pleasure1 but the nougat should always be well filled with them4 ,,ginger ,,candy4 ,break a pound of highly-refined sugar into lumps1 put it into a preserving-pan1 and pour over it about the third of a pint of spring water2 let it stand until the sugar is nearly dissolved1 then set it over a perfectly clear fire1 and boil it until it becomes a thin syrup4 ,have ready in a large cup a teaspoonful of the very best ginger in powder2 mix it smoothly and gradually with two or three spoonsful of the syrup1 and then stir it well into the whole4 ,watch the mixture carefully1 keep it stirred1 and drop it often from a spoon to ascertain the exact point of boiling it has reached4 ,when it begins to fall in flakes1 throw in the freshly-grated rind of a very large lemon1 or of two small ones1 and work the sugar round quickly as it is added4 ,the candy must now be stirred constantly until it is done3 this will be when it falls in a mass from the spoon1 and does not sink when placed in a small heap on a dish4 ,it must be poured1 or laded out1 as expeditiously as possible when ready1 or it will fall quite into powder4 ,if this should happen1 a little water must be added to it1 and it must be reboiled to the proper point4 ,the candy1 if dropped in cakes upon sheets of very dry foolscap or other thick writing-paper laid upon cold dishes1 may be moved off without difficulty while it is still just warm1 but it must not be touched while quite hot1 or it will break4 ,sugar1 highly refined1 #a lb42 water1 #a_/c of a pint2 ginger1 #a teaspoonful2 rind of #a large lemon4 ,,orange-,,flower ,,candy4 ,beat in three-quarters of a pint1 or rather more1 of water1 about the fourth part of the white of an egg1 and pour it on two pounds of the best sugar broken into lumps4 ,when it has stood a little time1 place it over a very clear fire1 and let it boil for a few minutes1 then set it on one side1 until the scum has subsided2 clear it off1 and boil the sugar until it is very thick1 then strew in by degrees three ounces of the petals of the orange-blossom1 weighed after they are picked from their stems4 ,continue to stir the candy until it rises in one white mass in the pan1 then lay it1 as quickly as it can be done1 in cakes with a large spoon1 upon thick and very dry sheets of writing paper placed quite flat upon the backs of dishes1 or upon trays4#agg ,take it off before it is entirely cold1 and lay the candy reversed upon dishes1 or place the cakes on their edges round the rim of one until they are perfectly cold2 then secure them from the air without delay in close shutting tin boxes or canisters4 ,they will remain excellent for more than a year4 ,the orange-flowers will turn brown if thrown too soon into the syrup3 it should be more than three parts boiled when they are added4 ,they must be gathered on the day they are wanted for use1 as they will soon become discoloured from keeping4 ,footnote #agg3 ,as the heat of the boiling sugar would injure these1 no good ones should be used for the purpose4 ,sugar1 #b lbs42 water1 #c_/d pint2 #a_/d white of egg2 orange-blossoms1 #c oz4 ,obs4--,when sugar of the finest quality is used for this confection1 as it ought to be1 it will not require the white of egg to clarify it4 ,,orange-,,flower ,,candy4 7,another ,receipt47 ,the ,french1 who are very fond of the delicious flavour of the orange-blossom1 leave the petals in the candy2 but a more delicate confection1 to ,english taste1 is made as follows3--,throw the orange-flowers into the syrup when it has boiled about ten minutes1 and after they have simmered in it for five more1 pour the whole out1 and leave them to infuse until the following day1 or even longer1 if more convenient2 then bring the syrup to the point of boiling1 strain it from the blossoms through a muslin1 and finish it by the foregoing receipt4 ,,cocoa-,,nut ,,candy4 ,rasp very fine a sound fresh cocoa-nut1 spread it on a dish1 and let it dry naturally for two or three days1 as it will not bear the heat of an oven1 and is too oily for use when freshly broken4 ,four ounces of it will be sufficient for a pound of sugar for most tastes1 but more can be used at pleasure4 ,boil the sugar as for the orange-flower candy1 and when it begins to be very thick and white1 strew in the nut1 stir and mix it well1 and do not quit it for an instant until it is finished4 ,the pan should not be placed upon the fire but over it1 as the nut is liable to burn with too fierce a heat4 ,for almond-candy proceed in exactly the same way1 but let the almonds1 either whole or split1 be perfectly well dried in a gentle oven1 and do not throw them into the sugar until it approaches the candying point4 ,,palace-,,bonbons4 ,take some fine fresh candied orange-rind1 or citron1 clear off the sugar which adheres to it1 cut it into inch-squares1 stick these singly on the prong of a silver fork or on osier-twigs1 dip them into liquid barley-sugar1 and place them on a dish rubbed with the smallest possible quantity of very pure salad oil4 ,when cold1 put them into tin boxes or canisters well dried1 with paper1 which should also be very dry1 between each layer4 ,,everton ,,toffie4 ,no4 #a4--,put into a brass skillet or small preserving-pan three ounces of very fresh butter1 and as soon as it is just melted add a pound of brown sugar of moderate quality2 keep these stirred gently over a very clear fire for about fifteen minutes1 or until a little of the mixture1 dropped into a basin of cold water1 breaks clean between the teeth without sticking to them3 when it is boiled to this point1 it must be poured out immediately1 or it will burn4 ,the grated rind of a lemon1 added when the toffie is half done1 improves it much2 or a small teaspoonful of powdered ginger moistened with a little of the other ingredients as soon as the sugar is dissolved and then stirred to the whole1 will vary it pleasantly to many tastes4 ,the real ,everton toffie is made with a much larger proportion of butter1 but it is the less wholesome on that very account4 ,if dropped upon dishes first rubbed with a buttered paper1 the toffie when cold can be raised from them easily4 ,butter1 #c oz42 sugar1 #a lb43 #ae to #ah minutes4 ,or1 sugar1 #a lb42 butter1 #e oz42 almonds1 #b oz43 #bj to #cj minutes4 ,no4 #b4--;,boil together a pound of sugar and five ounces of butter for twenty minutes2 then stir in two ounces of almonds blanched1 divided1 and thoroughly dried in a slow oven1 or before the fire4 ,let the toffie boil after they are added1 till it crackles when dropped into cold water1 and snaps between the teeth without sticking4 ,sugar1 #a lb42 butter1 #e oz42 almonds1 #b oz43 #bj to #cj minutes4 ,,chocolate ,,drops4 ,throw into a well heated metal mortar from two to four ounces of the best quality of cake-chocolate broken small1 and pound it with a warm pestle until it resembles a smooth paste or very thick batter2 then add an equal weight of sugar in the finest powder1 and beat them until they are thoroughly blended4 ,roll the mixture into small balls1 lay them upon sheets of writing paper or upon clean dishes1 and take them off when they are nearly cold4 ,the tops may be covered with white nonpareil comfits1 or the drops may be shaken in a paper containing some of these1 and entirely encrusted with them2 but it must be recollected that they will not adhere to them after they become hard4 ,more or less sugar can be worked into the chocolate according to the taste2 and a ,wedgwood mortar may be used for it when no other is at hand1 but one of bell-metal will answer the purpose better4 ,,chocolate ,,almonds4 ,when the chocolate has been softened1 and mixed with an equal proportion of sugar1 as directed in the foregoing receipt1 enclose singly in small portions of it some almonds previously well dried1 or even slightly coloured in the oven1 after having been blanched4 ,roll them very smooth in the hand1 and cover them with the comfits1 or form them like the almond shamrocks of page #egd4 ,filberts and pistachio-nuts may be substituted for the almonds with good effect2 but they also must be perfectly dry4 ,,seville ,,orange ,,paste4 ,wipe1 and pare in the thinnest possible strips1 some ,seville orange-rinds1 and throw them into plenty of boiling water4 ,when they are extremely tender1 lift them on to a large sieve reversed to drain2 press the water from them a little1 and before they are quite cold1 pound them to the smoothest paste1 and blend thoroughly with them as much fine sifted sugar as can possibly be mixed with them4 ,roll the mass out extremely thin1 and with a very small tin-cutter form it into cakes or leaves1 or any other shapes1 and then dry it in a ,,very gentle oven4 ,store it in close-shutting boxes as soon as it is cold4 ,a little choice prepared ginger may be added to it in the pounding when it is liked4 ,paste of lemon or citron-rind may be made in the same way4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,chapter ,,xxviii4 ,dessert ,dishes4 ,illustration ,,dessert ,,dishes4 ,a ,,well-,,selected and well-arranged rice-crust1 however simple in its character1 may always be rendered agreeable to the eye and to the taste3 but in no department of the table can so much that is attractive to both be more readily combined2 and at the present day an unusual degree of luxury is often displayed in it1 the details of which1 however1 would be out of place here4 ,forced strawberries of magnificent size1 and of the best varieties1 brought by culture and management all to perfection on the same day1 and served on their plants1 in the pots in which they are grown1 concealed in others of porcelain or of chased silver1 are amongst the expensive novelties now commonly introduced at costly dinners of display1 and may serve as an illustration of it4#agh ,footnote #agh3 ,to these may be added miniature fruit trees in full bearing placed down the centre of the table1 and intermingled with the choicest exotics4 ,for common occasions1 a few dishes of really fresh fruit tastefully disposed and embedded in large green leaves1 will be all that is required for a plain summer or autumn rice-crust2 and at other parts of the year such as are appropriate to the season2 but from the immense variety of cakes1 biscuits1 confections1 ices1 bonbons1 and other sucreries 7some of them extremely brilliant in appearance71 and of fruit native and foreign1 fresh1 dried1 and preserved in every possible manner which are adapted to them1 desserts may be served in any kind of style4 ,,pearled ,,fruit1 ,,or ,,fruit ,,en ,,chemise4 ,select for this dish very fine bunches of red and white currants1 large ripe cherries1 and gooseberries of different colours1 and strawberries or raspberries very freshly gathered4 ,beat up the white of an egg with about half as much cold water1 dip the fruit into this mixture1 drain it on a sieve for an instant1 and then roll it in fine sifted sugar until it is covered in every part2 give it a gentle shake1 and lay it on sheets of white paper to dry4 ,in ,england1 thin gum-water is sometimes used1 we believe1 for this dish1 instead of the white of egg2 we give1 however1 the ,french method of preparing it4 ,it will dry gradually in a warm room1 or a sunny window1 in the course of three or four hours4 ,obs4--,this is an inexpensive dish1 which if well prepared has the appearance of fine confectionary4 ,the incrustation of sugar much increases too the apparent size of the fruit4 ,that which is used for it should be of the best quality1 and fine and dry4 ,when it becomes moist from the fruit being rolled in it1 it will no longer adhere to it as it ought4 ,,salad ,,of ,,mixed ,,summer ,,fruits4 ,heap a rice-crust-dish quite high with alternate layers of fine fresh strawberries stripped from the stalks1 white and red currants1 and white or red raspberries2 strew each layer plentifully with sifted sugar1 and just before the dish is sent to table1 pour equally over the top two wineglassesful of sherry1 ,madeira1 or any other good white wine4 ,very thick ,devonshire cream may be laid entirely over the fruit1 instead of the wine being mingled with it4 ,currants by themselves are excellent prepared in this way1 and strawberries also4 ,the fruit should be gently stirred with a spoon when it is served4 ,each variety must be picked with great nicety from the stalks4 ,,peach ,,salad4 ,pare and slice half a dozen fine ripe peaches1 arrange them in a dish1 strew them with pounded sugar1 and pour over them two or three glasses of champagne3 other wine may be used1 but this is best4 ,persons who prefer brandy can substitute it for wine4 ,the quantity of sugar must be proportioned to the sweetness of the fruit4 ,,orange ,,salad4 ,take off the outer rinds1 and then strip away entirely the white inside skin from some fine ,china oranges2 slice them thin1 and remove the seeds1 and thick skin of the cores1 as this is done2 strew over them plenty of white sifted sugar1 and pour on them a glass or more of brandy3 when the sugar is dissolved serve the oranges4 ,in ,france ripe pears of superior quality are sometimes sliced up with the oranges4 ,powdered sugar-candy used instead of sugar1 is an improvement to this salad2 and the substitution of port1 sherry1 or ,madeira1 for the brandy is often considered so4 ,the fruit may be used without being pared1 and a little curaao or any other liqueur may be added to the brandy2 or this last1 when unmixed1 may be burned after it is poured on the oranges4 ,,tangerine ,,oranges4 ,these beautiful little oranges1 of which the rinds have a most peculiar1 and to many tastes not a very agreeable flavour1 are remarkably sweet and delicate when in their perfection2 but they come later into the market than the more common varieties of the orange1 and disappear from them sooner4 ,they make a very refined salad1 and also an ornamental rice-crust dish3 their cost is somewhat higher than that of the ,malta and ,st4 ,michael oranges4 ,there is another species of this fruit known commonly as the blood-orange which has many admirers1 but it is not we should say greatly superior to the more abundant kinds usually served at our tables4 ,,peaches ,,in ,,brandy4 7,rotterdam ,receipt47 ,prepare and stew some fine full-flavoured peaches by the receipt of page #dei1 but with two ounces more of sugar to the half pint of water2 when they are tender put them1 with their syrup1 into glass or new stone jars1 which they should only half fill2 and when they are quite cold pour in white1 or very pale1 ,french brandy to within an inch and a half of the brims3 a few peach or apricot kernels can be added to them4 ,the jars must be corked down4 ,,brandied ,,morella ,,cherries4 ,let the cherries be ripe1 freshly gathered1 and the finest that can be had2 cut off half the length of the stalks1 and drop them gently into clean dry quart bottles with wide necks2 leave in each sufficient space for four ounces of pounded white sugar-candy 7or of brown1 if better liked72 fill them up entirely with the best ,french brandy1 and cork them closely3 the fruit will not shrivel if thus prepared4 ,a few cherry1 or apricot kernels1 or a small portion of cinnamon1 can be added when they are considered an improvement4 ,,baked ,,comp,,te ,,of ,,apples4 7,our little lady's receipt47 ,put into a wide ,nottingham jar1 with a cover1 two quarts of golden pippins1 or of the small apple which resembles them in appearance1 called the orange pippin 7this is very plentiful in the county of ,kent71 pared and cored1 but without being divided2 strew amongst them some small strips of very thin fresh lemon-rind1 throw on them1 nearly at the top1 half a pound of good ,lisbon sugar1 and set the jar1 with the cover tied on1 for some hours1 or for a night1 into a very slow oven4 ,the apples will be extremely good1 if not too quickly baked3 they should remain entire1 but be perfectly tender1 and clear in appearance4 ,add a little lemon-juice when the season is far advanced4 ,apples1 #b quarts2 rind1 quite small lemon2 sugar1 #a_/b lb43 #a night in slow oven2 or some hours baking in a very gentle one4 ,obs4--,these apples may be served hot as a second course dish2 or cold1 with a boiled custard poured round or over them4 ,they will likewise answer admirably to fill ,gabrielle's pudding1 or a vol-au-vent la crme4 ,,dried ,,norfolk ,,biffins4 ,the ,norfolk biffin is a hard and very red apple1 the flesh of the true kind being partially red as well as the skin4 ,it is most excellent when carefully dried2 and much finer we should say when left more juicy and but partly flattened1 than it is when prepared for sale4 ,wipe the apples1 arrange them an inch or two apart1 and place them in a very gentle oven until they become so much softened as to yield easily to sufficient pressure to give them the form of small cakes of less than an inch thick4 ,they must be set several times into the oven to produce this effect1 as they must be gradually flattened1 and must not be allowed to burst3 a cool brick oven is best suited to them4 ,,normandy ,,pippins4 ,to one pound of the apples1 put one quart of water and six ounces of sugar2 let them simmer gently for three hours1 or more should they not be perfectly tender4 ,a few strips of fresh lemon-peel and a very few cloves are by some persons considered agreeable additions to the syrup4 ,dried ,normandy pippins1 #a lb42 water1 #a quart2 sugar1 #f oz42 #c to #d hours4 ,obs4--,these pippins1 if stewed with care1 will be converted into a rich confection3 but they will be very good and more refreshing with less sugar4 ,they are now exceedingly cheap1 and may be converted into excellent second course dishes at small expense4 ,half a pound1 as they are light and swell much in the stewing1 will be sufficient to serve at once4 ,rinse them quickly with cold water1 and then soak them for an hour in the pan in which they are to be stewed1 in a quart of fresh water2 place them by the side of the stove to heat gradually1 and when they begin to soften add as much sugar as will sweeten them to the taste3 they require but a small portion4 ,lemon-rind can be added to them at pleasure4 ,we have many receipts for other ways of preparing them1 to which we cannot now give place here4 ,it answers well to bake them slowly in a covered jar4 ,they may be served hot in a border of rice4 ,,stewed ,,pruneaux ,,de ,,tours1 ,,or ,,tours ,,dried ,,plums4 ,these plums1 which resemble in form small dried ,norfolk biffins1 make a delicious compte3 they are also excellent served dry4 ,in ,france they are stewed until tender in equal parts of water1 and of the light red wine of the country1 with about four ounces of sugar to the pound of fruit3 when port wine is used for them a smaller proportion of it will suffice4 ,the sugar should not be added in stewing any dried fruits until they are at least half-done1 as they will not soften by any means so easily in syrup as in unsweetened liquid4 ,dried plums1 #a lb42 water1 #a_/b pint1 and light claret1 #a_/b pint1 or water1 #a_/d pint1 and port wine1 #a_/d pint3 #a-a_/b hour4 ,sugar1 #d oz43 #b hours1 or more4 ,obs4--,common ,french plums are stewed in the same way with or without wine4 ,a little experience will teach the cook the exact quantity of liquid and of sugar which they require4 ,,to ,,bake ,,pears4 ,wipe some large sound iron pears1 arrange them on a dish with the stalk end upwards1 put them into the oven after the bread is withdrawn1 and let them remain all night4 ,if well baked1 they will be excellent1 very sweet1 and juicy1 and much finer in flavour than those which are stewed or baked with sugar3 the bon chrtien pear also is delicious baked thus4 ,,stewed ,,pears4 ,pare1 cut in halves1 and core a dozen fine pears1 put them into a close shutting stewpan with some thin strips of lemon-rind1 half a pound of sugar in lumps1 as much water as will nearly cover them1 and should a very bright colour be desired1 a dozen grains of cochineal1 bruised1 and tied in a muslin2 stew the fruit as gently as possible1 four or five hours1 or longer should it not be perfectly tender4 ,wine is sometimes added both to stewed pears and to baked ones4 ,if put into a covered jar1 well tied down and baked for some hours1 with a proper quantity of liquid and sugar1 they will be very good4 ,,boiled ,,chestnuts4 ,make a slight incision in the outer skin only1 of each chestnut1 to prevent its bursting1 and when all are done1 throw them into plenty of boiling water1 with about a dessertspoonful of salt to the half gallon4 ,some chestnuts will require to be boiled nearly or quite an hour1 others little more than half the time3 the cook should try them occasionally1 and as soon as they are soft through1 drain them1 wipe them in a coarse cloth1 and send them to table quickly in a hot napkin4 ,obs4--,the best chestnuts are those which have no internal divisions3 the finest kinds are quite entire when shelled4 ,,roasted ,,chestnuts4 ,the best mode of preparing these is to roast them1 as in ,spain1 in a coffee-roaster1 after having first boiled them from seven to ten minutes1 and wiped them dry4 ,they should not be allowed to cool1 and will require but from ten to fifteen minutes' roasting4 ,they may1 when more convenient1 be finished over the fire as usual1 or in a ,dutch or common oven1 but in all cases the previous boiling will be found an improvement4 ,never omit to cut the rind of each nut slightly before it is cooked4 ,serve the chestnuts very hot in a napkin1 and send salt to table with them4 ,,almond ,,shamrocks4 7,very good1 and very pretty47 ,whisk the white of a very fresh egg to a froth sufficiently solid to remain standing in high points when dropped from the whisk2 work into it from half to three-quarters of a pound of very fine dry sifted sugar1 or more should it be needed1 to bring the mixture to a consistency in which it can be worked with the fingers4 ,have ready some fine ,jordan almonds which have been blanched1 and thoroughly dried at the mouth of the oven2 roll each of these in a small portion of the icing until it is equally covered1 and of good form2 then lay them on sheets of thick writing paper1 placing three together in the form of the shamrock1 or trefoil1 with a small bit of sugar twisted from the centre almond to form the stalk4 ,when all are ready1 set them into a very slow oven for twenty minutes or longer3 they should become quite firm without taking any colour4 ,they make an excellent and very ornamental dish4 ,to give them flavour and variety1 use for them sugar which has been rasped on the rinds of some sound lemons1 or ,seville oranges1 or upon citron1 and dried before it is reduced to powder2 or add to the mixture a drop of essence of roses1 and a slight colouring of prepared cochineal4 ,a little spinach-juice will give a beautiful green tint1 but its flavour is not very agreeable4 ,filbert or pistachio nuts will answer as well as almonds1 iced in this way4 ,,small ,,sugar ,,souffl,s4 ,these are made with the same preparation of egg and sugar as the almond-shamrocks1 and may be flavoured and coloured in the same way4 ,the icing must be sufficiently firm to roll into balls scarcely larger than a nut3 a little sifted sugar should be dusted on the fingers in making them1 but it must not remain on the surface of the souffls4 ,they are baked usually in very small round paper cases1 plaited with the edge of a knife1 and to give them brilliancy1 the tops are slightly moistened before they are set into the oven1 by passing the finger1 or a paste-brush1 just dipped in cold water1 lightly over them4 ,look at them in about a quarter of an hour1 and should they be quite firm to the touch in every part1 draw them out2 but if not let them remain longer4 ,they may be baked on sheets of paper1 but will not preserve their form so well4 ,for #a white of egg1 whisked to a very firm froth1 #h to #aj oz4 of sifted sugar1 or more3 souffls1 baked in extremely gentle oven1 #af to #cj minutes1 or longer if needful4 ,obs4--,we have confined our receipts here to the most simple preparations suited to desserts4 ,all the confectionary of the preceding chapter being appropriate to them 7with the exception of the toffie71 as well as various comptes1 clear jellies1 and gateaux of fruit turned from the moulds2 and we have already enumerated the many other dishes of which they may be composed4 ,,ices4 ,illustration3 ,ice ,pail and ,freezer4 ,there is no real difficulty in making ices for the table2 but for want of the proper means of freezing them1 and of preventing their being acted on by a too warm atmosphere afterwards1 in many houses it cannot very easily be accomplished unless the weather be extremely cold4 ,a vessel called a freezing-pot1 an ice-pail1 a strong wooden mallet1 and a copper spatula1 or an ice-spoon1 are all that is positively required for this branch of confectionary4 ,suitable moulds for iced puddings1 and imitations of fruit1 must be had in addition when needed4 ,when the composition which is to be frozen is ready1 the rough ice must be beaten quite small with the mallet1 and either mingled quickly with two or three handsful of powdered saltpetre1 or used with a much larger quantity of salt4 ,the freezing-pot must then be firmly placed in the centre of the ice1 which must be pressed closely into the vacant space around it until it reaches the top4 ,the cover of the ice-pot1 or freezer1 may then be removed1 and the preparation to be iced poured into it4 ,it should then be turned by means of the handle at the top1 quickly backwards and forwards for eight or ten minutes2 then the portion which will have frozen to the inside must be scraped well from it with the ice-spoon and mingled with the remainder3 without this the mass would be full of lumps instead of being perfectly smooth as it ought to be4 ,the same process must be continued until the whole of its contents are uniformly frozen4 ,the water-ices which are made in such perfection on the continent1 are incomparably superior to the ice-creams1 and other sweet compositions which are usually served in preference to them here4 ,one or two receipts which we append will serve as guides for many others1 which may easily be compounded with any variety of fresh summer fruit4#agi ,footnote #agi3 ,the ices for desserts should be moulded in the form of fruit or other shapes adapted to the purpose2 the natural flavour and colouring are then given to the former1 but it is only experienced cooks or confectioners generally who understand this branch of ice-making1 and it is better left to them4 ,all the necessary moulds may be procured at any good ironmongers1 where the manner of using them would be explained3 we can give no more space to the subject4 ,red ,currant ,ice4--,strip from the stalks and take two pounds weight of fine ripe currants and half a pound of raspberries2 rub them through a fine sieve1 and mingle thoroughly with them sufficient cold syrup to render the mixture agreeably sweet1 and1--unless the pure flavour of the fruit be altogether preferred1--add the strained juice of one large or of two small lemons1 and proceed at once to freeze the mixture as above4 ,currants1 #b lbs42 raspberries1 #a_/b lb42 sugar1 #c_/d to #a lb42 boiled for #f or #h minutes in #a_/b pint of water and left till quite cold4 7,juice of lemon or lemons at pleasure47 ,strawberry and raspberry water-ices are made in precisely the same manner4 ,to convert any of these into ,english ice-creams1 merely mingle the juice and pulp of the fruit with sufficient pounded sugar to sweeten them1 or with the syrup as above1 and then blend with them gradually from a pint and a half to a quart of fresh sweet cream1 and the lemon-juice or not at choice4 ,the ,queen's ,custard1 the ,currant1 and the ,quince or ,apple ,custard of pages #dha and #dhb may all be converted into good ices with a little addition of cream and sugar2 and so likewise may the ,countess ,cream of page #dgb1 and the ,bavarian ,cream of page #dgg1 by omitting the isinglass from either of them4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,chapter ,,xxix4 ,syrups1 ,liqueurs1 c4 ,illustration3 ,antique ,wine ,vase4 ,,strawberry ,,vinegar1 ,,of ,,delicious ,,flavour4 ,,take the stalks from the fruit which should be of a highly flavoured sort1 quite ripe1 fresh from the beds1 and gathered in dry weather2 weigh and put it into large glass jars1 or wide-necked bottles1 and to each pound pour about a pint and a half of fine pale white wine vinegar1 which will answer the purpose better than the entirely colourless kind sold under the name of distilled vinegar1 but which is often1 we believe1 merely pyroligneous acid greatly diluted4#ahj ,tie a thick paper over them1 and let the strawberries remain from three to four days2 then pour off the vinegar and empty them into a jelly-bag1 or suspend them in a cloth1 that all the liquid may drop from them without pressure2 replace them with an equal weight of fresh fruit1 pour the vinegar upon it1 and three days afterwards repeat the same process1 diminishing a little the proportion of strawberries1 of which the flavour ought ultimately to overpower that of the vinegar4 ,in from two to four days drain off the liquid very closely1 and after having strained it through a linen or a flannel bag1 weigh it1 and mix with it an equal quantity of highly-refined sugar roughly powdered2 when this is nearly dissolved1 stir the syrup over a very clear fire until it has boiled for five minutes1 and skim it thoroughly2 pour it into a delicately clean stone pitcher1 or into large china jugs1 throw a thick folded cloth over and let it remain until the morrow4 ,put it into pint or half-pint bottles1 and cork them lightly with new velvet corks2 for if these be pressed in tightly at first1 the bottles will sometimes burst3#aha in four or five days they may be closely corked1 and stored in a dry and cool place4 ,damp destroys the colour and injures the flavour of these fine fruit-vinegars1 of which a spoonful or two in a glass of water affords so agreeable a summer beverage1 and one which1 in many cases of illness1 is so acceptable to invalids4 ,they make also most admirable sauces for her ,majesty's pudding1 common custard1 batter1 and various other simple and sweet light puddings4 ,footnote #ahj3 ,for these fine acidulated fruit-syrups vinegar of the purest quality1 but only of medium strength1 is required4 ,footnote #aha3 ,we have known this to occur1 but it has been when bought fruit has been used for the preparation4 ,strawberries 7stalked71 #d lbs42 vinegar1 #c quarts3 #c to #d days4 ,vinegar drained and poured on fresh strawberries1 #d lbs43 #c days4 ,drained again on to fresh fruit1 #c to #d lbs43 #b to #d days4 ,to each pound of the vinegar1 #a lb4 of highly-refined sugar3 boiled #e minutes4 ,lightly corked1 #d to #e days4 ,obs4--,where there is a garden the fruit may be thrown into the vinegar as it ripens1 within an interval of forty-eight hours1 instead of being all put to infuse at once1 and it must then remain in it a proportionate time3 one or two days in addition to that specified will make no difference to the preparation4 ,the enamelled stewpans are the best possible vessels to boil it in3 but it may be simmered in a stone jar set into a pan of boiling water1 when there is nothing more appropriate at hand2 though the syrup does not usually keep so well when this last method is adopted4 ,raspberries and strawberries mixed will make a vinegar of very pleasant flavour2 black currants also will afford an exceedingly useful syrup of the same kind4 ,,very ,,fine ,,raspberry ,,vinegar4 ,fill glass jars or large wide-necked bottles1 with very ripe but perfectly sound freshly gathered raspberries1 freed from their stalks1 and cover them with pale white wine vinegar3 they may be left to infuse from a week to ten days without injury1 or the vinegar may be poured from them in four or five1 when more convenient4 ,after it is drained off1 turn the fruit into a sieve placed over a deep dish or bowl1 as the juice will flow slowly from it for many hours2 put fresh raspberries into the bottles1 and pour the vinegar back upon them2 two or three days later change the fruit again1 and when it has stood the same space of time1 drain the whole of the vinegar closely from it1 pass it through a jelly-bag or thick linen cloth1 and boil it gently for four or five minutes with its weight of good sugar roughly powdered1 or a pound and a quarter to the exact pint1 and be very careful to remove the scum entirely as it rises4 ,on the following day bottle the syrup1 observing the directions which we have given for the strawberry vinegar4 ,when the fruit is scarce it may be changed twice only1 and left a few days longer in the vinegar4 ,raspberries1 #f lbs42 vinegar1 #i pints3 #g to #aj days4 ,vinegar drained on to fresh raspberries 7#f lbs4 of73 #c to #e days4 ,poured again on fresh raspberries1 #f lbs43 #c to #e days4 ,boiled #e minutes with its weight of sugar4 ,obs4--,when the process of sugar-boiling is well understood1 it will be found an improvement to boil that which is used for raspberry or strawberry vinegar to candy height before the liquid is mixed with it2 all the scum may then be removed with a couple of minutes' simmering1 and the flavour of the fruit will be more perfectly preserved4 ,for more particular directions as to the mode of proceeding1 the chapter of confectionary may be consulted4 ,,fine ,,currant ,,syrup1 ,,or ,,sirop ,,de ,,groseilles4 ,express the juice from some fine ripe red currants1 which have been gathered in dry weather1 and stripped from the stalks2 strain1 and put it into a new1 or a perfectly clean and dry earthen pitcher1 and let it stand in a cellar or in some cool place for twenty-four hours1 or longer1 should it not then appear perfectly curdled4 ,pour it gently into a fine hair-sieve1 and let the clear juice drain through without pressure2 pass it through a jelly-bag1 or a closely-woven cloth1 weigh it1 and add as much good sugar broken small as there is of the juice1 and when this is dissolved turn the syrup into a preserving-pan or stewpan1 and boil it gently for four or five minutes being careful to clear off all the scum4 ,in twelve hours afterwards the syrup may be put into small dry bottles1 and corked and stored in a cool1 but dry place4 ,it is a most agreeable preparation1 retaining perfectly the flavour of the fresh fruit2 and mixed with water1 it affords1 like strawberry or raspberry vinegar1 a delicious summer beverage1 and one which is peculiarly adapted to invalids4 ,it makes also a fine isinglass jelly1 and an incomparable sweet-pudding sauce4 ,a portion of raspberry or cherry-juice may be mixed with that of the currants at pleasure4 ,,cherry-,,brandy4 7,tappington ,everard ,receipt47 ,fill to about two-thirds of their depth1 some wide-necked bottles with the small cherries called in the markets brandy-blacks2 pour in sufficient sifted sugar to fill up more than half of the remaining space1 and then as much good ,french brandy as will cover the fruit1 and reach to the necks of the bottles4 ,cork them securely1 and let them stand for two months before they are opened3 the liqueur poured from the cherries will be excellent1 and the fruit itself very good4 ,the morella cherry-brandy of the preceding chapter would often be preferred to this4 ,,oxford ,,punch4 ,extract the essence from the rinds of three lemons by rubbing them with sugar in lumps2 put these into a large jug with the peel of two ,seville oranges1 of two lemons cut extremely thin1 the juice of four ,seville oranges and of ten lemons1 and six glasses of calf's feet jelly in a liquid state4 ,stir these well together1 pour to them two quarts of boiling water1 cover the jug closely1 and set it near the fire for a quarter of an hour1 then strain the mixture through a sieve into a punch bowl or jug1 sweeten it with a bottle of capillaire1 add half a pint of white wine1 a pint of ,french brandy1 a pint of ,jamaica rum1 and a bottle of orange shrub2 stir the punch as the spirit is poured in4 ,if not sufficiently sweet1 add sugar in small quantities1 or a spoonful or two of capillaire4 ,rinds of lemons rubbed with sugar1 #c2 thin peel of lemons1 #b2 of ,seville oranges1 #b2 juice of #d ,seville oranges1 and #aj lemons2 calf's feet jelly1 #f glasses2 water1 #b quarts3 #a_/d hour4 ,capillaire1 #a bottle2 white wine1 #a_/b pint2 ,french brandy and ,jamaica rum1 each #a pint2 orange shrub1 #a bottle4 ,,oxford ,,receipt ,,for ,,bishop4 ,illustration 8,make several incisions in the rind of a lemon1 stick cloves in these1 and roast the lemon by a slow fire4 ,put small but equal quantities of cinnamon1 cloves1 mace1 and allspice1 with a race of ginger1 into a saucepan with half a pint of water3 let it boil until it is reduced one-half4 ,boil one bottle of port wine1 burn a portion of the spirit out of it by applying a lighted paper to the saucepan2 put the roasted lemon and spice into the wine2 stir it up well1 and let it stand near the fire ten minutes4 ,rub a few knobs of sugar on the rind of a lemon1 put the sugar into a bowl or jug1 with the juice of half a lemon 7not roasted71 pour the wine into it1 grate in some nutmeg1 sweeten it to the taste1 and serve it up with the lemon and spice floating in it40 ,obs4--,bishop is frequently made with a ,seville orange stuck with cloves and slowly roasted1 and its flavour to many tastes is infinitely finer than that of the lemon4 ,,cambridge ,,milk ,,punch4 ,throw into two quarts of new milk the very thinly-pared rind of a fine lemon1 and half a pound of good sugar in lumps2 bring it slowly to boil1 take out the lemon-rind1 draw it from the fire1 and stir quickly in a couple of well-whisked eggs which have been mixed with less than half a pint of cold milk1 and strained though a sieve2 the milk must not of course be allowed to boil after these are mixed with it4 ,add gradually a pint of rum1 and half a pint of brandy2 mill the punch to a froth1 and serve it immediately with quite warm glasses4 ,at the ,university the lemon-rind is usually omitted1 but it is a great improvement to the flavour of the beverage4 ,the sugar and spirit can be otherwise apportioned to the taste2 and we would recommend the yolks of three eggs1 or of four1 in preference to the two whole ones4 ,new milk1 #b quarts2 rind1 #a large lemon2 fresh eggs1 #b2 cold milk1 #a_/b pint2 rum1 #a pint2 brandy1 #a_/b pint4 ,,to ,,mull ,,wine4 7,an excellent ,french ,receipt47 ,boil in a wineglassful and a half of water1 a quarter of an ounce of spice 7cinnamon1 ginger slightly bruised1 and cloves71 with three ounces of fine sugar1 until they form a thick syrup1 which must not on any account be allowed to burn4 ,pour in a pint of port wine1 and stir it gently until it is on the point of boiling only3 it should then be served immediately4 ,the addition of a strip or two of orange-rind cut extremely thin1 gives to this beverage the flavour of bishop4 ,in ,france light claret takes the place of port wine in making it1 and the better kinds of vin ordinaire are very palatable thus prepared4 ,water1 #a-a_/b wineglassful2 spice1 #a_/d oz41 of which fine cloves1 #bd1 and of remainder1 rather more ginger than cinnamon2 sugar #c oz43 #ae to #bj minutes4 ,port wine or claret1 #a pint2 orange-rind1 if used1 to be boiled with the spice4 ,obs4--,sherry1 or very fine raisin or ginger wine1 prepared as above1 and stirred hot to the yolks of four fresh eggs1 will make good egg-wine4 ,a ,,birthday ,,syllabub4 ,put into a large bowl half a pound of sugar broken small1 and pour on it the strained juice of a couple of fresh lemons2 stir these well together1 and add to them a pint of port wine1 a pint of sherry1 and half a pint of brandy2 grate in a fine nutmeg1 place the bowl under the cow1 and milk it full4 ,in serving it put a portion of the curd into each glass1 fill it up with whey1 and pour a little rich cream on the top4 ,the rind of a lemon may be rasped on part of the sugar when the flavour is liked1 but it is not usually added4 ,juice of lemons1 #b2 sugar1 #a_/b lb4 or more2 port wine1 #a pint2 sherry #a pint2 brandy1 #a_/b pint2 nutmeg1 #a2 milk from the cow1 #b quarts4 ,obs4--,we can testify to the excellence of this receipt4 ,,an ,,admirable ,,cool ,,cup4 ,weigh six ounces of sugar in lumps1 and extract the essence from the rind of a large fresh lemon by rubbing them upon it2 then put them into a deep jug1 and add the strained juice of one lemon and a half4 ,when the sugar is dissolved1 pour in a bottle of good cider1 and three large wineglassesful of sherry2 add nearly half a small nutmeg lightly grated1 and serve the cup with or without some sprigs of fresh balm or borage in it4 ,brandy is sometimes added to it1 but is1 we think1 no improvement4 ,if closely covered down1 and placed on ice for a short time1 it will be more agreeable as a summer beverage4 ,,the ,,regent',s1 ,,or ,,george ,,the ,,fourth',s1 ,,punch4 ,pare as thin as possible the rinds of two ,china oranges1 of two lemons1 and of one ,seville orange1 and infuse them for an hour in half a pint of thin cold syrup2 then add to them the juice of the fruit4 ,make a pint of strong green tea1 sweeten it well with fine sugar1 and when it is quite cold1 add it to the fruit and syrup1 with a glass of the best old ,jamaica rum1 a glass of brandy1 one of arrack1 one of pine-apple syrup1 and two bottles of champagne2 pass the whole through a fine lawn sieve until it is perfectly clear1 then bottle1 and put it into ice until dinner is served4 ,we are indebted for this receipt to a person who made the punch daily for the prince's table1 at ,carlton palace1 for six months2 it has been in our possession some years1 and may be relied on4 ,rinds and juice of #b ,china oranges1 #b lemons1 and of #a ,seville orange2 syrup1 #a_/b pint2 strong green tea1 sweetened1 #a pint2 best old ,jamaica rum1 arrack1 ,french brandy 7vieux cognac71 and pine-apple syrup1 each #a glassful2 champagne1 #b bottles4 ,in ice for a couple of hours4 ,,mint ,,julep1 ,,an ,,american ,,receipt4 8,strip the tender leaves of mint into a tumbler1 and add to them as much wine1 brandy1 or any other spirit1 as you wish to take4 ,put some pounded ice into a second tumbler2 pour this on the mint and brandy1 and continue to pour the mixture from one tumbler to the other until the whole is sufficiently impregnated with the flavour of the mint1 which is extracted by the particles of the ice coming into brisk contact when changed from one vessel to the other4 ,now place the glass in a larger one1 containing pounded ice3 on taking it out of which it will be covered with frost-work40 ,obs4--,we apprehend that this preparation is1 like most other iced ,american beverages1 to be imbibed through a reed3 the receipt1 which was contributed by an ,american gentleman1 is somewhat vague4 ,,delicious ,,milk ,,lemonade4 ,dissolve six ounces of loaf sugar in a pint of boiling water1 and mix with them a quarter of a pint of lemon-juice1 and the same quantity of sherry2 then add three-quarters of a pint of cold milk1 stir the whole well together1 and pass it through a jelly-bag till clear4 ,,excellent ,,portable ,,lemonade4 ,rasp1 with a quarter-pound of sugar1 the rind of a very fine juicy lemon1 reduce it to powder1 and pour on it the strained juice of the fruit4 ,press the mixture into a jar1 and when wanted for use dissolve a tablespoonful of it in a glass of water4 ,it will keep a considerable time4 ,if too sweet for the taste of the drinker1 a very small portion of citric acid may be added when it is taken4 ,,excellent ,,barley ,,water4 7,poor ,xury's receipt47 ,wipe very clean1 by rolling it in a soft cloth1 two tablespoonsful of pearl barley2 put it into a quart jug1 with a lump or two of sugar1 a grain or two of salt1 and a strip of lemon-peel1 cut thin2 fill up the jug with boiling water and keep the mixture gently stirred for some minutes2 then cover it down1 and let it stand until perfectly cold4 ,in twelve hours1 or less1 it will be fit for use2 but it is better when made over night4 ,if these directions be followed1 the barley-water will be comparatively clear1 and very soft and pleasant to drink4 ,a glass of calf's feet jelly added to the barley is an infinite improvement2 but as lemon-rind is often extremely unpalatable to invalids1 their taste should be consulted before that ingredient is added1 as it should be also for the degree of sweetness that is desired4 ,after the barley-water has been poured off once1 the jug may be filled with boiling water a second time1 and even a third time with advantage4 ,,raisin ,,wine1 ,,which1 ,,if ,,long ,,kept1 ,,really ,,resembles ,,foreign4 ,first boil the water which is to be used for the wine1 and let it again become perfectly cold2 then put into a sound sweet cask eight pounds of fine ,malaga raisins for each gallon that is to be used1 taking out only the quite large stalks2 the fruit and water may be put in alternately until the cask is full1 the raisins being well pressed down in it2 lay the bung lightly over1 stir the wine every day or two1 and keep it full by the addition of water that has1 like the first1 been boiled1 but which must always be quite cold when it is used4 ,so soon as the fermentation has entirely ceased1 which may be in from six to seven weeks1 press in the bung1 and leave the wine untouched for twelve months2 draw it off then into a clean cask1 and fine it1 if necessary1 with isinglass1 tied in a muslin and suspended in it4 ,we have not ourselves had this receipt tried2 but we have tasted wine made by it which had been five years kept1 and which so much resembled a rich foreign wine that we could with difficulty believe it was ,english-made4 ,to each gallon of water 7boiled and left till cold7 #h lbs4 of fine ,malaga raisins2 to stand #ab months2 then to be drawn off and fined4 ,obs4--,the refuse raisins make admirable vinegar if fresh water be poured to them1 and the cask placed in the sun4 ,march is the best time for making the wine4 ,,very ,,good ,,elderberry ,,wine4 ,strip the berries1 which should be ripe and fresh1 and gathered on a dry day1 clean from the stalks1 and measure them into a tub or large earthen pan4 ,pour boiling water on them1 in the proportion of two gallons to three of berries1 press them down into the liquor1 cover them closely1 and let them remain until the following day2 then strain the juice from the fruit through a sieve or cloth1 and1 when this is done1 squeeze from the berries the greater part of the remaining juice2 mix it with that which was first poured off1 measure the whole1 add to it three pounds of sugar1 three-quarters of an ounce of cloves1 and one ounce of ginger1 for every gallon1 and boil it twenty minutes1 keeping it thoroughly skimmed4 ,put it1 when something more than milk-warm1 into a perfectly dry and sweet cask 7or if but a very small quantity of wine be made1 into large stone bottles1 which answer for the purpose quite well71 fill this entirely1 and pour very gently into the bung hole a large spoonful of new yeast mixed with a very small quantity of the wine4 ,,very ,,good ,,ginger ,,wine4 ,boil together1 for half an hour1 fourteen quarts of water1 twelve pounds of sugar1 a quarter of a pound of the best ginger bruised1 and the thin rinds of six large lemons4 ,put the whole1 when milk-warm1 into a clean dry cask1 with the juice of the lemons1 and half a pound of sun raisins2 add one large spoonful of thick yeast1 and stir the wine every day for ten days4 ,when it has ceased to ferment1 add an ounce of isinglass1 and a pint of brandy2 bung the wine close1 and in two months it will be fit to bottle1 but must remain longer in the cask should it be too sweet4 ,when it can be obtained1 substitute for the water in this receipt cider fresh from the press1 which will give a very superior wine4 ,water1 #ad quarts2 sugar1 #ab pounds2 lemon-rinds1 #f3 ginger1 #a_/d lb43 #a_/b hour4 ,juice of lemons1 #f2 raisins1 #a_/b lb42 yeast1 #a spoonful2 isinglass1 #a oz42 brandy1 #a pint4 ,,excellent ,,orange ,,wine4 ,take half a chest of ,seville oranges1 pare off the rinds as thin as possible1 put two-thirds of them into six gallons of water1 and let them remain for twenty-four hours4 ,squeeze the oranges 7which ought to yield seven or eight quarts of juice7 through a sieve into a pan1 and as they are done throw them into six gallons more of water2 let them be washed well in it with the hands1 and then put into another six gallons of water and left until the following day4 ,for each gallon of wine1 put into the cask three pounds and a quarter of loaf sugar1 and the liquor strained clear from the rinds and pulp4 ,wash these again and again1 should more liquor be required to fill the cask2 but do not at any time add raw water4 ,stir the wine daily until the sugar is perfectly dissolved1 and let it ferment from four to five weeks2 add to it two bottles of brandy1 stop it down1 and in twelve months it will be fit to bottle4 ,obs4--,the excellence of all wine depends so much upon the fermentation being properly conducted1 that unless the mode of regulating this be understood by the maker1 there will always be great danger of failure in the operation4 ,there is1 we believe1 an excellent work upon the subject by ,mr4 ,mc,culloch1 which the reader who needs information upon it will do well to consult3 our own experience is too slight to enable us to multiply our receipts4 ,,the ,,counsellor',s ,,cup4 ,rub a quarter of a pound of sugar upon the rinds of two fine ,china oranges1 put it into an enamelled stewpan1 and pour on it a pint of water2 let these boil gently for two or three minutes1 then pour in half a pint of ,china orange-juice mixed with that of one lemon1 and previously strained through muslin2 the moment this begins to boil1 pour it into a hot jug1 and stir to it half a pint of the best ,cognac brandy4 ,serve it immediately4 ,when preferred cold1 prepare the syrup with the juice of the fruit1 cover it down in the jug1 set it into ice1 or into a very cool place1 and add the spirit only just before the cup is wanted for table4 ,should the fruit be very acid1 increase the proportion of sugar4 ,a few slight strips of the rind of a ,seville orange cut very thin1 would to many tastes be an agreeable addition to the beverage2 which should be made always with fresh sound fruit4 ,sugar1 #d oz4 7#f if needed72 rasped rinds of ,china oranges1 #b2 water1 #a pint3 #c minutes4 ,strained juice of ,china oranges mixed with that of #a large lemon1 #a_/b pint2 best ,cognac brandy1 #a_/b pint4 ,obs4--,for a large cup these proportions must be doubled4 ,sherry or ,madeira substituted for the brandy1 will make a pleasant cool cup of this kind2 and equal parts of well made lemonade1 and of any good light white wine1 thoroughly cooled down1 will give another agreeable beverage for warm weather2 but a much smaller proportion of wine would better adapt it to many tastes4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,chapter ,,xxx4 ,coffee1 ,chocolate1 c4 ,illustration ,illustration ,,coffee4 ,,there is no beverage which is held in more universal esteem than good coffee1 and none in this country at least1 which is obtained with greater difficulty 7unless indeed it be pure wine74 ,we hear constant and well-founded complaints both from foreigners and ,english people1 of the wretched compounds so commonly served up here under its name1 especially in many lodging houses1 hotels1 and railway refreshment rooms2#ahb yet nothing can well be easier than to prepare it properly4 ,some elaborate and various fanciful modes of making it have been suggested at different times by writers fond of novelty1 but they have in general nothing to recommend them beyond the more simple processes which follow1 and of which we believe the result will seldom prove unsatisfactory to our readers1 unless it be to such of them as may have been accustomed to the spiced or other peculiar ,oriental preparations of the fragrant berry1 or simply to the exquisite quality of it1 which would appear to be obtainable only in the ,east2 or which1 at all events1 is beyond the reach of the mass of ,english consumers1 and of their near ,continental neighbours4 ,footnote #ahb3 ,at some of the principal stations on lines connected with the coast1 by which an immense number of strangers pass and repass1 the coffee is so bad1 that great as the refreshment of it would be to them1 particularly in night travelling1 in very cold weather1 they reject it as too nauseous to be swallowed4 ,a little national pride ought surely to prevent this1 if no higher principle interfered to do so2 for to exact the full price of a good commodity1 and habitually to supply only trash for it1 is a commercial disgrace4 ,,to ,,roast ,,coffee4 ,illustration ,persons who drink coffee habitually1 and who are very particular about its flavour and quality1 should purchase the best kind in a raw state1 keep it for two or three years if they are not certain that it has been so long harvested--as when new it is greatly inferior to that which has been kept--and have it roasted at home4 ,this can be cheaply done in small quantities by means of the inexpensive apparatus shown above2 the cost of it not exceeding seven or eight shillings1 and the supply of charcoal needed for it being very trifling indeed2 or1 with that inserted below1 which is larger and about double the price4 ,the cylinder which contains the coffee should be only half filled1 and it should be turned rather slowly over the fire1 which should never be fierce1 until a strong aromatic smell is emitted2 the movement should then be quickened1 as the grain is in that case quite heated1 and it will become too highly coloured before it is roasted through1 if slowly finished4 ,when it is of a fine1 light1 equal brown1 which must be ascertained1 until some little experience has been acquired1 by sliding back the door of the cylinder1 and looking at it occasionally towards the end of the process1 spread it quickly upon a large dish1 and throw a thickly folded cloth over it4 ,let it remain thus until it is quite cold2 then put it immediately into canisters or bottles1 and exclude the air carefully from it4 ,illustration3 ,patent ,percolator1 with ,spirit ,lamp4 ,a ,,few ,,general ,,directions ,,for ,,making ,,coffee4 ,when good coffee is desired1 let it be procured if possible of a first-rate ,london house#ahc which can be depended on2 and we would recommend that it should be of the finest quality that can be obtained2 for there is no real economy in using that which is nominally cheaper1 as a larger quantity will be required to give the same amount of strength1 and the flavour will be very inferior4 ,it should always be freshly roasted2 but when a constant and large demand for it exists1 it will be easy to have it so4 ,when it has been stored for any length of time it will be much freshened and improved by being gently heated through1 either in the oven or in a stewpan held high above the fire4 ,it should be often turned while it is warming1 and ground as soon as it is cold again4 ,never purchase it ready ground unless compelled to do so4 ,when no proper mill for it is fitted up in the house1 a small portable one1 which may be had at a trifling expense1 will answer tolerably well for grinding it1 though it cannot be used with quite the same facility as those which are fastened firmly to a wall2 but whatever form of mill may be used it should be arranged so as to reduce the berries to a moderately fine powder2 for if it be too coarse the essence will be only partially extracted from it by filtering2 and if it be extremely fine the water will not percolate through it1 and it will not be clear4 ,footnote #ahc3 ,we could indicate several houses where unadulterated coffee may be procured1 but it is not always to be had from them so choice in quality as it might be2 and it is in general too highly roasted4 ,by far the finest we have ever tasted we had on two occasions1 some years since1 from ,mr4 ,cobbett1 of ,pall ,mall4 ,the fragrance of it was too remarkable to be easily forgotten1 and the flavour was exquisite2 but it was apparently an accidental sample which he had met with in the market1 for though very good1 that with which we were supplied afterwards never equalled it4 ,messrs4 ,staniforth and ,co41 #ach1 ,oxford-street1 are deservedly noted for the excellence of their coffee4 ,it is always ground at the instant of serving it to a customer2 and they have the complaisance of roasting even so small a quantity as two pounds1 to suit the taste of the purchaser3 it may therefore be procured of them as pale-dried as it can be wished4 ,the house of ,messrs4 ,decastro and ,peach1 next door to ,hatchett's ,hotel1 ,piccadilly1 may likewise1 we think1 be quite depended on for supplying genuine coffee to the public2 and they have an immense demand for it4 ,we say nothing about mingling chicory with it4 ,our directions are for making pure coffee2 which1 when not taken in excess1 is1 we believe1 a wholesome as well as a most agreeable beverage4 ,the effect of chicory is1 we believe1 to impart a slight bitter flavour to the infusion1 and to deepen its colour so much as to make it appear much stronger than it really is4 ,true connoisseurs1 however1 do not attach any importance to the dark hue of coffee1 the very choicest that can be tasted being sometimes of quite a pale tint4 ,always serve hot milk or cream1 or hot milk and cold cream1 if preferred1 with breakfast coffee4 ,in the evening1 when milk is served at all with it1 it should likewise be boiling4 ,do not1 in any way1 make use of the residue of one day's coffee in preparing that of the next2 you would but injure the purity of its flavour by doing so1 and effect next to nothing in the matter of economy4#ahd ,footnote #ahd3 ,when the coffee has been filtered in a proper manner1 water poured afterwards on the 8grounds0 as they are termed1 will have scarcely any taste or colour2 this is not the case when it has been boiled4 ,,excellent ,,breakfast ,,coffee4 ,a simple1 well-made ,english filter1 or percolator1 as it is called1 will answer perfectly for making coffee2 but from amongst the many of more recent invention which are on sale1 the reader who prefers one of ornamental appearance1 and of novel construction1 will easily be suited4 ,the size of the filter must be adapted to the number of persons for whom the coffee is to be prepared2 for if a large quantity of the powder be heaped into an insufficient space for it1 there will not be room for it to swell1 and the water will not pass through4 ,put three ounces of coffee into one which will contain in the lower compartment two pints and a half2 shake the powder quite level and press it closely down2 remove the presser1 put on the top strainer1 and pour round and round1 so as to wet the coffee equally1 about the third part of a measured pint of fast boiling water4 ,let this drain quite through before more is added2 then pour in--still quite boiling--in the same manner as much more water1 and when it has passed through1 add the remainder2 let it drain entirely through1 then remove the top of the filter1 put the cover on the part which contains the coffee1 and serve it immediately4 ,it will be very strong1 and perfectly clear4 ,fill the breakfast cups two parts full of new boiling milk1 and add as much of the infusion as will give it the degree of strength which is agreeable to those for whom it is prepared4 ,when it is liked extremely strong1 the proportion of milk must be diminished1 or less water be poured to the coffee4 ,if nearly an additional half pint of water be added before the top of the percolator is taken off1 it will still be very good1 provided that the coffee used be really of first-rate quality4 ,to make cheaper breakfast coffee to be served in the usual ,english mode1 the same process should be followed1 but the proportion of water must be considerably increased3 it should always1 however1 be added by slow degrees4 ,good breakfast coffee 7for three persons74 ,best ,mocha1 in moderately fine powder1 ground at the instant of using it1 #c oz42 boiling water added by degrees1 #a pint2 7more at pleasure74 ,boiling milk served with it1 #a-a_/b pint to #a quart4 ,common ,english coffee3 coffee-powder1 #c oz42 water1 #a quart1 to be slowly filtered2 hot milk1 half to whole pint4 ,cream in addition to either of the above1 at choice4 ,,to ,,boil ,,coffee4 ,to boil coffee and refine it1 put the necessary quantity of water into a pot which it will not fill by some inches2 when it boils stir in the coffee2 for unless this be at once moistened1 it will remain on the top and be liable to fly over4 ,give it one or two strong boils1 then raise it from the fire1 and simmer it for ten minutes only2 pour out a large cupful twice1 hold it high over the coffee pot and pour it in again1 then set it on the stove where it will keep hot without simmering or moving in the least1 for ten minutes longer4 ,it will be perfectly clear1 unless mismanaged1 without any other fining4 ,should more1 however1 be deemed necessary1 a very small pinch of isinglass1 or a clean egg-shell1 with a little of the white adhering to it1 is the best that can be used4 ,never use mustard to fine coffee with4 ,it is a barbarous custom of which we have heard foreigners who have been in ,england vehemently complain4 ,coffee1 #b oz42 water1 #a pint to #a quart1 according to the strength required4 ,boiled #aj minutes2 left to clear #aj minutes4 ,remark4--,filtering is1 we should say1 a far more economical1 and in every way a superior mode of making coffee to boiling it2 but as some persons still prefer the old method1 we insert the receipt for it4 ,,caf ,,noir4 ,this is the very essence of coffee1 and is served in nearly all ,french families1 as well in those of many other countries1 immediately after the rice-crust4 ,about two-thirds of a small cupful--not more--sweetened almost to syrup with highly refined sugar in lumps1 is usually taken by each person2 in families of moderate rank1 generally before they leave the table2 in more refined life1 it is served in the drawing-room the instant dinner is ended2 commonly with liqueurs after it1 but not invariably4 ,to make it1 proceed exactly as for the breakfast-coffee1 but add only so much water as is required to make the strongest possible infusion4 ,white sugar-candy in powder may be served with it in addition to the sugar in lumps4 ,,burnt ,,coffee1 ,,or ,,coffee ,,la ,,militaire4 7,in ,france vulgarly called ,gloria47 ,make some coffee as strong and as clear as possible1 sweeten it in the cup with white sugar almost to syrup1 then pour the brandy on the top gently over a spoon1 set fire to it with a lighted paper1 and when the spirit is in part consumed1 blow out the flame1 and drink the gloria quite hot4 ,,to ,,make ,,chocolate4 ,illustration ,an ounce of chocolate1 if good1 will be sufficient for one person4 ,rasp1 and then boil it from five to ten minutes with about four tablespoonsful of water2 when it is extremely smooth add nearly a pint of new milk1 give it another boil1 stir it well1 or mill it1 and serve it directly4 ,for water-chocolate use three-quarters of a pint of water instead of the milk1 and send rich hot cream to table with it4 ,the taste must decide whether it shall be made thicker or thinner4 ,chocolate1 #b oz42 water1 quarter-pint1 or rather more2 milk1 #a-c_/d3 #a_/b minute4 ,obs4--,the general reader will understand the use of the chocolate-mill shown in the engraving with the pot2 but to the uninitiated it may be as well to observe1 that it is worked quickly round between both hands to give a fine froth to the chocolate4 ,it also serves in lieu of a whisk for working creams1 or jellies1 to a froth or whip4 ,a ,,spanish ,,recipe ,,for ,,making ,,and ,,serving ,,chocolate4 ,take of the best chocolate an ounce for each person1 and half a pint of cold water2 rasp or break it small in a mortar1 set it over a slow fire1 and stir or mill it gently until it has become quite smooth like custard2 pour it immediately into deep cups1 and serve it with a glass of sugar and water1 or with iced water only#ahe to each cup2 and with plates of very delicate dried toast cut in narrow strips1 or with the cakes called 8ladies' fingers40 ,should the chocolate appear too thick1 a little water must be added4 ,milk is sometimes substituted for it altogether4 ,footnote #ahe3 ,sometimes with a water ice1 which should be of an appropriate character4 ,,to ,,make ,,cocoa4 ,directions for making it are usually sold with the prepared1 or best quality of cocoa1 which is merely mixed with boiling water in the proportions indicated on the packets4 ,that which is prepared from the nibs requires several hours' boiling1 and should be left until it is quite cold1 that the oil which will be found on the surface may be cleared from it before it is again heated for table3 this is particularly needful when it is to be served to persons in delicate health4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,chapter ,,xxxi4 ,bread4 ,illustration ,,remarks ,,on ,,home-,,made ,,bread4 ,,it is surely a singular fact that the one article of our daily food on which health depends more than on any other1 is precisely that which is obtained in ,england with the greatest difficulty--good1 light1 and pure bread--yet nothing can be more simple and easy than the process of making it1 either in large quantities or in small4 ,from constant failure1 it is nevertheless considered so difficult in many families1 that recourse is had to the nearest baker1 both in town and country1 as a means of escape from the heavy1 or bitter1 or ill-baked masses of dough which appear at table under the name of household or home-made bread2 and which are well calculated to create the distaste which they often excite for everything which bears its name4 ,without wishing in the slightest degree to disparage the skill and labour of bread-makers by trade1 truth compels us to assert our conviction of the superior wholesomeness of bread made in our own homes4 ,when a miller can be depended on to supply flour of good quality1 and the other ingredients used in preparing it are also fresh and good1 and mingled with it in due proportions1 and the kneading1 fermentation1 and baking1 are conducted with care and intelligence1 the result will uniformly be excellent bread4 ,every cook1 therefore1--and we might almost say every female servant--ought to be perfectly acquainted with the proper mode of making it2 and skill in preparing a variety of dishes1 is poor compensation for ignorance on this one essential point4#ahf ,moreover1 it presents no more real difficulty than boiling a dish of potatoes1 or making a rice pudding2 and the neglect with which it is treated is therefore the less to be comprehended or excused4 ,footnote #ahf3 ,only those persons who live habitually on good home-made bread1 can form an idea of the extent to which health is affected by their being deprived of it4 ,we have been appealed to on several occasions for household loaves--which we have sent to a considerable distance--by friends who complained of being rendered really ill by the bread which they were compelled to eat in the sea-side towns and in other places of fashionable resort2 and in ,london we have heard incessant complaints both from foreigners and habitual residents1 of the impossibility of obtaining really wholesome bread4 ,,to ,,purify ,,yeast ,,for ,,bread ,,or ,,cakes4 ,the yeast procured from a public brewery is often so extremely bitter that it can only be rendered fit for use by frequent washings1 and after these even it should be cautiously employed4 ,mix it1 when first brought in1 with a large quantity of cold water1 and set it by until the following morning in a cool place2 then drain off the water1 and stir the yeast up well with as much more of fresh3 it must again stand several hours before the water can be poured clear from it4 ,by changing this daily in winter1 and both night and morning in very hot weather1 the yeast may be preserved fit for use much longer than it would otherwise be2 and should it ferment rather less freely after a time1 a small portion of brown sugar and a little warm milk or other liquid1 stirred to it a quarter of an hour or twenty minutes before it is required for bread-making1 will restore its strength4 ,the ,german yeast1 of which we have spoken in detail in another part of this chapter1 makes exceedingly light bread and buns1 and is never bitter2 it is therefore a valuable substitute for our own beer-yeast1 but cannot be procured in all parts of the country1 for the reasons which we have stated4 ,,the ,,oven4 ,a brick oven1 heated with wood1 is far superior to any other for baking bread1 as well as for most other purposes4 ,the iron ovens1 now commonly attached to kitchen-ranges--the construction of which has within these few years been wonderfully improved--though exceedingly convenient1 from the facility which they afford for baking at all hours of the day1 do not in general answer well for bread1 unless it be made into very small loaves or rolls1 as the surface becomes hardened and browned long before the heat has sufficiently penetrated to the centre of the dough4 ,the same objection often exists to iron-ovens of larger size1 which require care and management1 to ensure the successful use of them4 ,a brick oven should be well heated with faggot wood1 or with a faggot1 and two or three solid logs2 and after it is cleared1 the door should be closely shut for quite half an hour before the baking commences3 the heat will then be well sustained for a succession of bread1 pies1 cakes1 and small pastry4 ,the servant who habitually attends at an oven will soon become acquainted with the precise quantity of fuel which it requires1 and all other peculiarities which may be connected with it4 ,a ,,few ,,rules ,,to ,,be ,,observed ,,in ,,making ,,bread4 ,never use too large a proportion of yeast1 as the bread will not only become dry very speedily when this is done1 but it will be far less sweet and pleasant in flavour than that which is more slowly fermented1 and the colour will not be so good3 there will also be a great chance of its being bitter when brewer's yeast is used for it4 ,remember that milk or water of scalding heat poured to any kind of yeast will render the bread heavy4 ,one pint of either added quite boiling to a pint and a half of cold1 will bring it to about the degree of warmth required4 ,in frosty weather the proportion of the heated liquid may be increased a little4 ,when only porter-yeast--which is dark-coloured and bitter--can be procured1 use a much smaller proportion than usual1 and allow much longer time for it to rise4 ,never let it be sent to the oven until it is evidently light4 ,bitter bread is unpalatable1 but not really unwholesome2 but heavy bread is particularly so4 ,let the leaven be kneaded up quickly with the remainder of the flour when once it is well risen1 as it should on no account be allowed to sink again before this is done1 when it has reached the proper point2 and in making the dough1 be particularly careful not to render it too lithe by adding more liquid than is requisite4 ,it should be quite firm1 and entirely free from lumps and crumbs throughout the mass1 and on the surface also1 which ought to be perfectly smooth4 ,in winter1 place the bread while it is rising sufficiently close to the fire to prevent its becoming cold1 but never so near as to render it hot4 ,a warm thick cloth should be thrown over the pan in which it is made immediately after the leaven is mixed1 and kept on it until the bread is ready for the oven4 ,,household ,,bread4 ,put half a bushel 7more or less1 according to the consumption of the family7 of flour into the kneading tub or trough1 and hollow it well in the middle2 dilute a pint of yeast as it is brought from the brewery or half the quantity if it has been washed and rendered solid1 with four quarts or more of lukewarm milk or water1 or a mixture of the two2 stir into it1 from the surrounding part1 with a wooden spoon1 as much flour as will make a thick batter2 throw a handful or two over it1 and leave this1 which is called the leaven1 to rise before proceeding further4 ,in about an hour it will have swollen considerably1 and have burst through the coating of flour on the top2 then pour in as much more warm liquid as will convert the whole1 with good kneading1 and this should not be spared1 into a firm dough1 of which the surface should be entirely free from lumps or crumbs4 ,throw a cloth over1 and let it remain until it has risen very much a second time1 which will be in an hour1 or something more1 if the batch be large4 ,then work it lightly up1 and mould it into loaves of from two to three pounds weight2 send them directly to a well heated oven1 and bake them from an hour and a half to an hour and three-quarters4 ,flour1 #a_/b bushel2 salt 7when it is liked71 #d to #f oz42 yeast1 #a pint unwashed1 or #a_/b pint if purified2 milk1 or water1 #b quarts3 #a to #a-a_/b hour4 ,additional liquid as needed4 ,obs4--,brown bread can be made exactly as above1 either with half meal and half flour mixed1 or with meal only4 ,this will absorb more moisture than fine flour1 and will retain it rather longer4 ,brown bread should always be thoroughly baked4 ,remark4--,we have seen it very erroneously asserted in one or two works1 that bread made with milk speedily becomes sour4 ,this is never the case when it is properly baked and kept1 and when the milk used for it is perfectly sweet4 ,the experience of many years1 enables us to speak positively on this point4 ,,bordyke ,,bread4 7,author's ,receipt47 ,mix with a gallon of flour a large teaspoonful of fine salt1 make a hollow in the centre1 and pour in two tablespoonsful of solid1 well purified yeast1 gradually diluted with about two pints and a half of milk1 and work it into a thick batter with the surrounding flour1 strew a thick layer over and leave it to rise from an hour to an hour and a half2 then knead it up with as much more warm skimmed milk1 or half new milk and half water1 as will render it quite firm and smooth without being very stiff2 let it rise another hour1 and divide it into three loaves2 put them into square tins slightly buttered1 or into round baking pans1 and bake them about an hour and a quarter in a well-heated oven4 ,the dough can be formed into household loaves if preferred1 and sent to the oven in the usual way4 ,when a finer and more spongy kind of bread is required for immediate eating1 substitute new milk for skimmed1 dissolve in it about an ounce of butter1 leave it more liquid when the sponge is set1 and let the whole be lightly kneaded into a lithe dough3 the bread thus made will be excellent when new1 and for a day or so after it is baked1 but it will become dry sooner than the other4 ,flour1 #a gallon2 salt1 #a teaspoonful2 skimmed milk1 #b-a_/b pints1 to rise from #a to #a-a_/b hour4 ,additional milk1 #a to #b pints3 to rise #a hour4 #c loaves1 baked #a-a_/d hour4 ,obs4 #a4--;,a few spoonsful of cream will wonderfully improve either of the above receipts1 and sweet buttermilk1 substituted for the other1 will give to the bread the shortness of a cake3 we would particularly recommend it for trial when it can be procured4 ,obs4 #b4--,shallow round earthen pans answer much better1 we think1 than tins for baking bread2 they should be slightly rubbed with butter before the dough is put into them4 ,,german ,,yeast4 7,and ,bread made with ,german ,yeast47 ,this has very generally superseded the use of ,english beer-yeast in ,london1 and other places conveniently situated for receiving quickly and regularly the supplies of it which are imported from abroad2 but as it speedily becomes putrid in sultry weather1 and does not in any season remain good long after its arrival here1 it is unsuited for transmission to remote parts of the country4 ,bread made with it while it is perfectly sweet1 is extremely light and good1 and it answers remarkably well for light cakes and biscuits4 ,an ounce is the proportion which we have always had used for a quartern 7half a gallon or three pounds and a half7 of flour1 and this1 with the addition of some salt and nearly a quart of milk1 or milk and water1 has produced excellent bread when it has been made with care4 ,the yeast should be very gradually and perfectly moistened and blended with the warm liquid2 for unless this be done1 and the whole rendered smooth as cream1 the dough will not be of the uniform texture which it ought1 but will be full of large hollow spaces1 which are never seen in well-made bread4 ,the mass should be mixed up firmly and well kneaded at once1 then left to rise for about an hour2 again kneaded thoroughly1 and again left to rise from three-quarters of an hour to an hour2 then divided1 and lightly worked up into loaves1 put into round slightly buttered earthen pans1 and sent immediately to the oven4#ahg ,footnote #ahg3 ,we give the proportions used and the exact manner of making this bread1 which we have had followed for more than twelve months1 with entire success4 ,a leaven may be first laid with the yeast1 and part of the liquid when it is preferred1 as directed for bread made with beer-yeast1 but the result will be equally good if the whole be kneaded up at once1 if it be made quite firm4 ,,professor ,,liebig',s ,,bavarian ,,brown ,,bread4 7,very nutritious and wholesome47 ,baron ,liebig pronounces this bread to be very superior to that which is made with fine flour solely1 both in consequence of the greater amount of nutriment which it contains1 and from its slight medicinal effect1 which renders it valuable to many persons accustomed to have frequent recourse to drugs1 of which it supersedes the necessity4 ,it is made with the wheat exactly as it is ground1 no part being subtracted1 nor any additional flour mingled with it4 ,he directs that the wheat should not be damped before it is prepared3 but few millers can be found who will depart from their ordinary practice to oblige private customers2 and this determined adherence to established usage intervenes constantly between us1 and all improvement in our modes of preparing food4 ,the bread is made in the usual way1 with water only1 or with a portion of milk added to the yeast1 as taste or convenience may dictate4 ,the loaves should be well baked at all times2 and the dough should of course be perfectly light when it is placed in the oven4 ,salt should be mixed with the meal before the yeast is added4 ,,english ,,brown ,,bread4 ,this is often made with a portion only of the unbolted meal recommended in the preceding receipt1 mixed with more or less of fine flour1 according to the quality of bread required2 and in many families the coarse bran is always sifted from the meal1 as an impression exists that it is irritating to the stomach4 ,if one gallon of meal as it comes from the mill1 be well mixed with an equal measure of flour1 and made into a dough in the manner directed for white household bread1 the loaves will still be sufficiently brown for the general taste in this country1 and they will be good and wholesome1 though not1 perhaps1 so entirely easy of digestion as ,baron ,liebig's ,bavarian bread4 ,,unfermented ,,bread4 ,this bread1 in which carbonate of soda and muriatic acid are substituted for yeast or other leaven1 has within these few years been highly recommended1 and much eaten4 ,it may possibly suit many persons better than that which is fermented in the usual way1 but it is not in general by any means so pleasant in flavour2 and there is much more chance of failure in preparing it in private families1 as it requires some skill to mix the ingredients with exactness and despatch2 and it is absolutely necessary that the dough should be set into the oven the instant it is ready4 ,in some hydropathic and other large establishments1 where it is always supplied to the table in lieu of the more common kinds1 it is1 we have been informed by patients who had partaken of it there for many months together1 exceedingly and uniformly good4 ,more detailed information with regard to it1 will be found in our 8,cookery for ,invalids10 a work for which our want of space in the present volume compels us to reserve it4 8,for each pound of flour 7or meal7 take forty grains of sesquicarbonate of soda1 mix it intimately with the sugar and flour1 then add fifty drops of muriatic acid of the shops1 diluted with half a pint of water1 or with as much as may be requisite to form the dough1 stirring it constantly into a smooth mass4 ,divide it into a couple of loaves1 and put them immediately into a quick oven40 ,bake them thoroughly4 ,author's note4--,dr4 ,pereira1 from whose book on diet the substance of the above receipt is taken1 says that delicious bread was made by it in his presence by the cook of ,mr4 ,john ,savory1 of ,bond ,street1 equal to any bread fermented by the usual process4 ,we would suggest that the soda1 mixed with the sugar1 and a small portion of the flour1 should be rubbed through a hair sieve with a wooden spoon into the remainder of the flour1 and stirred up with it until the whole is perfectly mingled1 before the liquid is added4 ,should lighter bread be desired1 the soda may be increased to fifty or even sixty grains1 if the quantity of acid be proportionately augmented4 ,as common salt is formed by the combination of these two agents1 none beside is needed in the bread4 ,flour1 #a lb42 sesquicarbonate of soda1 #dj grains2 sugar1 #a teaspoonful2 muriatic acid of the shops1 #ej drops2 water1 #a_/b pint 7or as needed74 ,,potato ,,bread4 ,one pound of good mealy potatoes1 steamed or boiled very dry1 in the ordinary way1 or prepared by ,captain ,kater's receipt 7see ,chapter ,,xvii471 and rubbed quite hot1 through a coarse sieve1 into a couple of pounds of flour1 with which they should be well mixed1 will produce excellent bread1 which will remain moist much longer than wheaten bread made as usual4 ,the yeast should be added immediately after the potatoes4 ,an ounce or two of butter1 an egg and some new milk1 will convert this bread into superior rolls4 ,,dinner ,,or ,,breakfast ,,rolls4 ,crumble down very small indeed1 an ounce of butter into a couple of pounds of the best flour1 and mix with them a large saltspoonful of salt4 ,put into a basin a dessertspoonful of solid1 well-purified yeast1 and half a teaspoonful of pounded sugar2 mix these with half a pint of warm new milk2 hollow the centre of the flour1 pour in the yeast gradually1 stirring to it sufficient of the surrounding flour to make a thick batter2 strew more flour on the top1 cover a thick double cloth over the pan1 and let it stand in a warm kitchen to rise4 ,in winter it must be placed within a few feet of the fire4 ,in about an hour1 should the leaven have broken through the flour on the top1 and have risen considerably in height1 mix one lightly-whisked egg1 or the yolks of two1 with nearly half a pint more of quite warm new milk1 and wet up the mass into a very smooth dough4 ,cover it as before1 and in from half to three-quarters of an hour turn it on to a paste-board1 and divide it into twenty-four portions of equal size4 ,knead these up as lightly as possible into small round1 or olive-shaped rolls2 make a slight incision round them1 and cut them once or twice across the top1 placing them as they are done on slightly floured baking sheets an inch or two apart4 ,let them remain for fifteen or twenty minutes to prove2 then wash the tops with yolk of egg1 mixed with a little milk1 and bake them in a rather brisk oven from ten to fifteen minutes4 ,turn them upside down upon a dish to cool after they are taken from the tins4 ,an additional ounce of butter and another egg can be used for these rolls when richer bread is liked2 but it is so much less wholesome than a more simple kind1 that it is not to be recommended4 ,a cup of good cream would be an admirable substitute for butter altogether1 rendering the rolls exceedingly delicate both in appearance and in flavour4 ,the yeast used for them should be stirred up with plenty of cold water the day before it is wanted2 and it will be found very thick indeed when it is poured off1 which should be gently done4 ,rather less than an ounce of good fresh ,german yeast may be used for them instead of brewer's yeast1 with advantage4 ,,geneva ,,rolls1 ,,or ,,buns4 ,break down into very small crumbs three ounces of butter with two pounds of flour2 add a little salt1 and set the sponge with a large tablespoonful of solid yeast1 mixed with a pint of new milk1 and a tablespoonful or more of strong saffron water2 let it rise for a full hour1 then stir to a couple of well-beaten eggs as much hot milk as will render them lukewarm1 and wet the rolls with them to a light1 lithe dough2 leave it from half to three-quarters of an hour longer1 mould it into small rolls1 brush them with beaten yolk of egg1 and bake them from twenty minutes to half an hour4 ,the addition of six ounces of good sugar1 three of butter1 half a pound or more of currants1 the grated rind of a large lemon1 and a couple of ounces of candied orange-rind1 will convert these into excellent buns4 ,when the flavour of the saffron is not liked1 omit it altogether4 ,only so much should be used at any time as will give a rich colour to the bread4 ,flour1 #b lbs42 butter1 #c oz42 solid yeast1 #a large tablespoonful 7saffron1 #a teaspoonful2 water1 less than a quarter pint72 new milk1 #a pint3 #a hour1 or more4 #b eggs1 more milk3 #c_/d hour3 baked #bj to #cj minutes4 ,,rusks4 ,work quite into crumbs six ounces of butter with a couple of pounds of fine dry flour1 and mix them into a lithe paste1 with two tablespoonsful of mild beer yeast1 three well-beaten eggs1 and nearly half a pint of warm new milk4 ,when it has risen to its full height knead it smooth1 and make it into very small loaves or thick cakes cut with a round cake-cutter2 place them on a floured tin1 and let them stand in a warm place to prove from ten to twenty minutes before they are set into the oven4 ,bake them about a quarter of an hour2 divide them while they are still warm1 and put them into a very slow oven to dry4 ,when they are crisp quite through they are done4 ,four teaspoonsful of sifted sugar must be added when sweet-rusks are preferred4 ,flour1 #b lbs42 butter1 #f oz42 yeast1 #b tablespoonsful2 eggs1 #c2 new milk nearly half a pint3 baked #a_/d hour4 ,for either of the preceding receipts substitute rather more than an ounce of ,german yeast1 when it can be procured quite fresh2 or should an ounce of it only be used 7which we should consider an ample proportion71 let the dough--especially that of the rusks--become extremely light before it is kneaded down1 and also previously to its being sent to the oven4 ,a somewhat smaller quantity of yeast is required in warm weather than in cold4 -------------- ,,remark4--,the remainder of this chapter is extracted from a little treatise on domestic bread-making1 which we hope shortly to lay before the public1 as it appears to us to be greatly needed2 but1 as we have already more than once repeated1 we are unwilling to withhold from the present volume any information which may be generally useful4 ,,excellent ,,dairy-,,bread ,,made ,,without ,,yeast4 7,author's ,receipt47 ,when we first heard unfermented bread vaguely spoken of1 we had it tried very successfully in the following manner2 and we have since been told that an almost similar method of preparing it is common in many remote parts both of ,england and ,ireland1 where it is almost impossible to procure a constant supply of yeast4 ,blend well together a teaspoonful of pounded sugar and fifty grains of the purest carbonate of soda2 mix a saltspoonful of salt with a pound of flour1 and rub the soda and sugar through a hair-sieve into it4 ,stir and mingle them well1 and make them quickly into a firm but not hard dough with sour buttermilk4 ,bake the loaf well in a thoroughly heated1 but not fierce oven4 ,in a brick1 or good iron oven a few minutes less than an hour would be sufficient to bake a loaf of similar weight4 ,the buttermilk should be kept until it is quite acid1 but it must never be in the slightest degree rancid1 or otherwise bad4 ,all unfermented bread should be placed in the oven directly it is made1 or it will be heavy4 ,for a larger baking allow rather less than an ounce of soda to the gallon 7seven pounds7 of flour4 ,obs4--,there are cases in which a knowledge of this1 or of any other equally easy mode of bread-making would be invaluable4 ,for example3--,we learn from the wife of an officer who has for a long time been stationed off the ,isle of ,skye1 in which his family have their abode1 that the inhabitants depend entirely for bread on supplies brought to them from ,glasgow2 and that they are often entirely without1 when the steamer which ought to arrive at intervals of eight days1 is delayed by stress of weather4 ,the residents are then compelled to have recourse to scones--as a mixture of flour and water and a little soda 7cooked on a flat iron plate71 are called--or to ship's biscuit2 and these are often found unsuitable for young children and invalids4 ,there are no ovens in the houses1 though there are grates for coal fires1 in front of which small loaves of unfermented bread could be baked extremely well in good ,american ovens4 ,buttermilk can always be procured2 and if not1 a provision of carbonate of soda and muriatic acid might be kept at hand to ensure the means of making wholesome bread4 ,in many other localities the same plan might prove of equal benefit4 ,,to ,,keep ,,bread4 ,bread requires almost as much care as milk to preserve it wholesome and fresh4 ,it should be laid1 as soon as it is perfectly cold1 into a large earthen pan with a cover1 which should be kept free from crumbs1 and be frequently scalded1 and then wiped very dry for use4 ,loaves which have been cut should have a smaller pan appropriated to them1 and this also should have the loose crumbs wiped from it daily4 ,it is a good plan to raise the bread-pans from the floor of the larder1 when there is no proper stand or frame for the purpose1 by means of two flat wedges of wood1 so as to allow a current of air to pass under them4 ,,to ,,freshen ,,stale ,,bread 7,,and ,,pastry1 ,,etc471 ,,and ,,preserve ,,it ,,from ,,mould4 ,if entire loaves be placed in a gentle oven and heated quite through1 without being previously dipped into cold water1 according to the old-fashioned plan1 they will eat almost like bread newly baked3 they should not remain in it long enough to become hard and dry1 but they should be made hot throughout4 ,in very damp localities1 when large household bakings take place but once in eight or ten days1 it is sometimes necessary to use precautions against the attack of mould1 though the bread may have been exceedingly well made2 and the method recommended above will be the best for warding it off1 and for preserving the bread eatable for several days longer than it would otherwise be4 ,if large loaves be just dipped into cold water and then placed in a quick oven until they are again thoroughly dried1 they will resemble new bread altogether4 ,pastry1 cakes1 and biscuits1 may all be greatly improved when stale1 by heating them in a gentle oven4 ,,to ,,know ,,when ,,bread ,,is ,,sufficiently ,,baked4 ,when the surface is uniformly browned1 and it is everywhere firm to the touch1 and the bottom crust of a loaf is hard1 it is generally certain that it is thoroughly baked4 ,to test bread that has been cut 7or yeast-cakes71 press down the crumb lightly in the centre with the thumb2 when it is elastic and rises again to its place1 it is proof that it is perfectly done2 but if the indentation remains1 the heat has not sufficiently penetrated the dough to convert it into wholesome eating4 ,,on ,,the ,,proper ,,fermentation ,,of ,,dough4 ,as we have previously said1 too large a proportion of yeast1 which is very commonly used by persons not well skilled in bread-making1 although it produces quickly a light spongy dough1 has a very bad effect on bread1 which it renders much less easy of digestion than that which is more slowly fermented1 and far less sweet and pleasant in flavour3 it also prevents its remaining eatable the same length of time1 as it speedily becomes dry4 ,it is likewise very disadvantageous to make the dough so lithe that it spreads about in the oven2 and if it be excessively stiff1 and its management not thoroughly understood1 it will sometimes be heavy14 ,to prevent this1 it should be kept quite warm 7never heated71 and left a much longer time to rise4 ,it will frequently then prove excellent4 ,it will ferment rather more quickly if1 when it gives symptoms of becoming light it is made up into loaves with the least possible kneading1 and a slight incision is made round them and across the tops1 and they are then placed in a warm air1 and kept secure from cold currents passing over them4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,chapter ,,xxxii4 ,illustration ,,foreign ,,and ,,jewish ,,cookery4 ,illustration ,,we had hoped to have been able without exceeding the prescribed limits of the present volume to have added here a somewhat extensive chapter on the cookery of other countries1 and to have comprised in it a section adapted to the service of the ,jewish table2 but we have so much enlarged in the pages on the more important subject of 8,bread10 and on other matters which relate to simple ,english domestic economy1 that we find it necessary to depart from our original intention1 and to confine our receipts here to a comparatively small number4 ,this1 however1 is of the less consequence as so many good and well tested foreign receipts1 of which1 from our own experience1 we can guarantee the success1 are to be found in the body of the work4 ,,remarks ,,on ,,jewish ,,cookery4 ,from being forbidden by their usages to mingle butter1 or other preparation of milk or cream with meat at any meal1 the ,jews have oil much used in their cookery of fish1 meat1 and vegetables4 ,pounded almonds and rich syrups of sugar and water agreeably flavoured1 assist in compounding their sweet dishes1 many of which are excellent1 and preserve much of their oriental character2 but we are credibly informed that the restrictions of which we have spoken are not at the present day very rigidly observed by the main body of ,jews in this country1 though they are so by those who are denominated strict4 ,,jewish ,,smoked ,,beef4#ahh ,footnote #ahh3 ,we were made acquainted with it first through the courtesy of a ,jewish lady1 who afterwards supplied us with the address of the butcher from whom it was procured3 ,mr4 ,pass1 #cd1 ,duke ,street1 ,aldgate1 from whom the chorissa also may be purchased1 and probably many other varieties of smoked meat which are used in ,jewish cookery4 ,for such of our readers as may not be acquainted with the fact1 it may be well to state here that all meat supplied by ,jew butchers is sure to be of first-rate quality1 as they are forbidden by the ,mosaic ,law to convert into food any animal which is not perfectly free from all 8spot or blemish40 ,this is excellent1 possessing the fine flavour of a really well cured ham1 and retaining it unimpaired for a very long time after it is cut or cooked1 if kept in a cool larder2 it is therefore a valuable and inexpensive store for imparting savour to soups1 gravies1 and other preparations2 and it affords also a dish of high relish for the table4 ,an inch or two of the lean part1 quite cleared from the smoked edges and divided into dice1 will flavour well a tureen of gravy1 or a pint of soup3 even that which has been boiled will greatly improve the flavour of ,liebig's extract of beef1 and of any simple broth or consomm4 ,from the depth of fat upon it1 which appears particularly rich and mellow1 we think it is the thick flank of the beef of which we have made trial in various ways1 and which is now in much request in several families of our acquaintance1 who find it greatly superior to the common hung or ,dutch beef1 to which they were previously accustomed4 ,it must be cooked in the same manner as other smoked meats1 more time being allowed for it than for fresh4 ,drop it into boiling water1 and when it has boiled quickly for ten minutes1 take off the scum should any appear1 add cold water sufficient to reduce it to mere scalding heat1 bring it again gently to a boil1 and simmer it until the lean appears quite tender when probed with a sharp skewer2 then lift it on to a drainer and serve it hot or cold1 and garnished in either case with vegetables or otherwise at pleasure4 ,beef1 #f lbs43 #c hours or more4 ,,chorissa 7,,or ,,jewish ,,sausage7 ,,with ,,rice4 ,the chorissa is a peculiar kind of smoked sausage much served at ,jewish tables#ahi as an accompaniment to boiled poultry1 c4 ,it seems to be in great part composed of delicate pounded meat1 intermingled with suet and with a small portion of some highly-cured preparation1 and with herbs or spices which impart to it an agreeable aromatic flavour4 ,footnote #ahi3 ,it may be had at the same shops as the smoked beef1 and is the same price--a shilling the pound4 ,drop the chorissa into warm water1 heat it gently1 boil it for about twenty minutes1 and serve it surrounded with rice prepared as for currie4 ,it will be found very good broiled in slices after the previous boiling3 it should be cold before it is again laid to the fire4 ,in all cases it will1 we think1 be found both more easy of digestion and more agreeable if half-boiled at least before it is broiled1 toasted1 or warmed in the oven for table4 ,it is a good addition to forcemeat1 and pounded savoury preparations1 if used in moderation4 ,,to ,,fry ,,salmon ,,and ,,other ,,fish ,,in ,,oil4 7,to ,serve ,cold47 ,turn into a small deep frying-pan1 which should be kept for the purpose1 a flask of fresh olive oil1 place it over a clear fire1 and as soon as it ceases to bubble lay in a pound and a half of delicate salmon properly cleansed and well dried in a cloth1 and fry it gently until it is cooked quite through4 ,the surface should be only lightly browned1 and when the proper colour is attained the pan must be lifted so high from the fire as to prevent it being deepened1 as we have directed in ,chapter ,,ix4 in the general instructions for frying4 ,drain the fish well when it is done1 and when it is perfectly cold1 dish1 and garnish it with light foliage4 ,the ,jews have cold fried fish much served at their repasts4 ,fillets of soles1 plaice1 brill1 small turbots1 or other flat fish1 may be fried as above1 and arranged in a symmetrical form round a portion of a larger fish1 or by themselves4 ,we would recommend as an accompaniment one of the ,mauritian chutnies which are to be found in this chapter4 ,olive oil1 #a small flask2 salmon1 about #a-a_/b lb43 #a_/b hour or rather more4 ,fillets of fish #e to #aj minutes4 ,obs4--,the oil should be strained through a sieve1 and set aside as the fish is done2 it will serve many times for frying if this be observed4 ,,jewish ,,almond ,,pudding4 ,we have not thought it necessary to test this receipt ourselves1 as we have tasted the puddings made by it more than once1 and have received the exact directions for them from the ,jewish lady at whose house they were made4 ,they are extremely delicate and excellent4 ,the almonds for them were procured ready ground from a ,jew confectioner1 but when they cannot be thus obtained they must be pounded in the usual manner4 ,with half a pound of sweet1 mingle six or seven bitter almonds1 half a pound of sifted sugar1 a little fine orange-flower water1 with the yolks of ten and the whites of seven well whisked eggs1 and when the whole of the ingredients are intimately blended1 bake the pudding in a rather quick oven for half an hour1 or longer should it not be then sufficiently firm to turn out of the dish4 ,sift sugar thickly over1 or pour round it a rich syrup flavoured with orange-flower water1 noyau or maraschino4 ,obs4--,we think a fruit syrup--pine-apple or other--or a compte of fruit would be an excellent accompaniment to this pudding1 which may be served hot or cold4 ,we conclude that the dish in which it is baked1 if not well buttered1 must be rubbed with oil4 ,the above proportions will make two puddings of sufficient size for a small party4 ,,the ,,lady',s ,,or ,,invalid',s ,,new ,,baked ,,apple ,,pudding4 7,author's ,original ,receipt4 ,appropriate to the ,jewish table47 ,this pudding1 which contains no butter1 is most excellent when made with exactness by the directions which follow1 but any variation from them will probably be attended with entire failure1 especially in the crust1 which if properly made will be solid1 but very light and crisp2 whereas1 if the proportion of sugar for it be diminished1 the bread will not form a compact mass1 but will fall into crumbs when it is served4 ,first weigh six ounces of the crumb of a light stale loaf1 and grate it down small2 then add to1 and mix thoroughly with it three ounces and a half of pounded sugar1 and a slight pinch of salt4 ,next1 take from a pound to a pound and a quarter of russets1 or of any other good baking apples2 pare1 and then take them off the cores in quarters without cutting the fruit asunder1 as they will then1 from the form given to them1 lie more compactly in the dish4 ,arrange them in close layers in a deep tart-dish which holds about a pint and a half1 and strew amongst them four ounces of sugar and the grated rind of a fine fresh lemon2 add the strained juice of the lemon1 and pour the bread-crumbs softly in a heap upon the apples in the centre of the dish1 and with the back of a spoon level them gently into a very smooth layer of equal thickness1 pressing them lightly down upon the fruit1 which must all be perfectly covered with them4 ,sift powdered sugar over1 wipe the edge of the dish1 and bake the pudding in a somewhat quick oven for rather more than three-quarters of an hour4 ,we have had it several times baked quite successfully in a baker's oven1 of which the heat is in general too great for puddings of a delicate kind4 ,very pale brown sugar will answer for it almost as well as pounded4 ,for the nursery1 some crumbs of bread may be strewed between the layers of fruit1 and nutmeg or cinnamon may be used instead of lemon4 ,obs4--,we insert this receipt here because the pudding has been so much liked1 and found so wholesome by many persons who have partaken of it at different times1 that we think it will be acceptable to some of our readers1 but it belongs properly to another work which we have in progress1 and from which we extract it now for the present volume4 ,an ounce or more of ratifias crushed to powder1 may be added to the crust1 or strewed over the pudding before it is served1 when they are considered an improvement4 ,a ,,few ,,general ,,directions ,,for ,,the ,,jewish ,,table4 ,as a substitute for milk1 in the composition of souffls1 puddings1 and sweet dishes1 almond-cream as it is called1 will be found to answer excellently4 ,to prepare it1 blanch and pound the almonds by the directions of page #edb1 and then pour very gradually to them boiling water in the proportion directed below2 turn them into a strong cloth or tammy1 and wring it from them with powerful pressure1 to extract as much as possible of it from them again4 ,the fruit custards of page #dhb1 and the mringues of fruit of page #dhe1 are perfectly suited to the tables of ,jewish families2 and sweet or savoury croustades or fried patties may be supplied to them from the receipts in the present work1 by substituting clarified marrow 7see page #chh7 for the butter used for them in general cookery4 ,the reader will easily discover in addition1 numerous dishes distributed through this volume which may be served to them without departing from their peculiar usages4 ,almond-cream3 7for puddings1 c47 almonds1 #d oz42 water1 #a pint4 ,for blancmanges1 and rich souffls1 creams and custards3 almonds1 #a_/b to whole pound2 water1 #a to #a-a_/b pints4 ,obs4--,as every cook may not be quite aware of the articles of food strictly prohibited by the ,mosaic law1 it may be well to specify them here4 ,pork in every form2 all varieties of shell-fish1 without exception2 hares1 rabbits1 and swans4 ,,tomata ,,and ,,other ,,chutnies4 7,mauritian ,receipts47 ,the composition of these favourite oriental sauces varies but little except in the ingredient which forms the basis of each4 ,the same piquant or stimulating auxiliaries are intermingled with all of them in greater or less proportion4 ,these are1 young onions1 chilies 7sometimes green ginger71 oil1 vinegar1 and salt2 and occasionally a little garlic or full grown onion1 which in ,england might be superseded by a small portion of minced eschalot4 ,green peaches1 mangoes1 and other unripe fruits1 crushed to pulp on the stone roller1 shown at the head of this chapter2 ripe bananas1 tomatas roasted or raw1 and also reduced to a smooth pulp2 potatoes cooked and mashed2 the fruit of the egg-plant boiled and reduced to a paste2 fish1 fresh1 salted1 or smoked1 and boiled or grilled1 taken in small fragments from the bones and skin1 and torn into minute shreds1 or pounded1 are all in their turn used in their preparation4#aij ,mingle with any one of these as much of the green onions and chilies chopped up small1 as will give it a strong flavour2 add salt if needed1 and as much olive oil1 of pure quality1 with a third as much of vinegar1 as will bring it to the consistence of a thick sauce4 ,serve it with currie1 cutlets1 steaks1 pork1 cold meat1 or fish1 or aught else to which it would be an acceptable accompaniment4 ,footnote #aij3 ,we are indebted for these receipts to a highly intelligent medical man who has been for twenty years a resident in the ,mauritius4 ,,indian ,,lobster-,,cutlets4 ,a really excellent and elegant receipt for lobster-cutlets has already been given in previous editions of the present work1 and is now to be found at page #ia of ,chapter ,,iii42 but the subjoined is one which may be more readily and expeditiously prepared1 and may consequently1 be preferred by some of our readers for that reason3 it has also the recommendation of being new4 ,in ,india1 these cutlets are made from the flesh of prawns1 which are there of enormous size1 but lobsters1 unless quite overgrown1 answer for them as well1 or better4 ,select fish of good size and take out the tails entire2 slice them about the third of an inch thick1 dip them into beaten egg1 and then into very fine crumbs of bread seasoned rather highly with cayenne1 and moderately with salt1 grated nutmeg1 and pounded mace4 ,egg and crumb them twice1 press the bread upon them with the blade of a knife1 and when all are ready1 fry them quickly in good butter to a light brown4 ,serve them as dry as possible1 arranged in a chain round a hot dish1 and pour into the centre1 or send to table with them in a tureen1 some sauce made with the flesh of the claws heated in some rich melted butter1 flavoured with a tablespoonful of essence of anchovies1 one of strong chili vinegar1 a little salt and mace1 and coloured with the coral of the fish1 should they contain any4 ,a few shrimps may be added with good effect2 or the sauce may be made of these entirely1 either whole or pounded1 when they are preferred4 ,in either case1 they should only be heated in it1 and not allowed to boil4 ,east or ,west ,indian mangoes1 or other hot pickle1 should accompany the dish4 ,the cutlets may likewise be dipped into light ,french batter1 and fried2 but the egg and bread-crumbs are somewhat preferable4 ,it is an advantage to have lobsters little more than parboiled for them4 ,herbs can be added to the crumbs at pleasure2 the writer does not1 however1 recommend them4 ,,an ,,indian ,,burdwan4 7,entre47 ,this is an ,oriental dish of high savour1 which may be made either with a young fowl or chicken parboiled for the purpose1 or with the remains of such as have already been sent to table4 ,first1 put into a stewpan about a tablespoonful of very mild onion finely minced1 or a larger proportion with a mixture of eschalots1 for persons whose taste is in favour of so strong a flavour2 add rather more than a quarter of a pint of cold water1 about an ounce of butter smoothly blended with a very small teaspoonful of flour1 a moderate seasoning of cayenne1 and a tablespoonful of essence of anchovies4 ,shake or stir this sauce over a clear fire until it boils1 then let it stand aside and merely simmer for ten or fifteen minutes1 or until the onion is quite tender1 then pour to it a couple of wineglassesful of ,madeira 7,sherry or ,tenerifte will do71 and a tablespoonful of chili-vinegar4 ,lay in the fowl after having carved it neatly1 divided all the joints1 and stripped off the skin2 and let it remain close to the fire1 but without boiling1 until it is perfectly heated through2 bring it to the point of boiling and send it immediately to table4 ,a dish of rice1 boiled as for currie1 is often1 but not invariably1 served with it4 ,should the fowl have been parboiled only--that is to say1 boiled for a quarter of an hour--it must be gently stewed in the sauce for fifteen or twenty minutes2 longer1 even1 should it not then be quite tender4 ,cold lamb1 or veal1 or calf's-head1 or a delicate young rabbit1 may be very advantageously served as a rechauff1 in a sauce compounded as above4 ,the various condiments contained in this can be differently apportioned at pleasure2 and pickled capsicum1 or chilies minced1 can be added to it at choice either in lieu of1 or in addition to the chili-vinegar4 ,the juice of a fresh lime should1 if possible1 be thrown into it before it is served4 ,except for a quite plain family dinner1 only the superior joints of poultry should be used for this dish4 ,care should be taken not to allow the essence of anchovies to predominate too powerfully in it4 ,,the ,,king ,,of ,,oude',s ,,omlet4 ,whisk up very lightly1 after having cleared them in the usual way1 five fine fresh eggs2 add to them two dessertspoonsful of milk or cream1 a small teaspoonful of salt1 one--or half that quantity for ,english eaters--of cayenne pepper1 three of minced mint1 and two dessertspoonsful of young leeks1 or of mild onions chopped small4 ,dissolve an ounce and a half of good butter in a frying-pan about the size of a plate1 or should a larger one of necessity be used1 raise the handle so as to throw the omlet entirely to the opposite side2 pour in the eggs1 and when the omlet1 which should be kept as thick as possible1 is well risen and quite firm1 and of a fine light brown underneath1 slide it on to a very hot dish1 and fold it together 8like a turnover10 the brown side uppermost3 six or seven minutes will fry it4 ,this receipt is given to the reader in a very modified form1 the fiery original which we transcribe being likely to find but few admirers here we apprehend3 the proportion of leeks or onions might still be much diminished with advantage3--8,five eggs1 two tolahs of milk1 one masha of salt1 two mashas of cayenne pepper1 three of mint1 and two tolahs of leeks40 ,,kedgeree ,,or ,,kidgeree1 ,,an ,,indian ,,breakfast ,,dish4 ,boil four ounces of rice tender and dry as for currie1 and when it is cooled down put it into a saucepan with nearly an equal quantity of cold fish taken clear of skin and bone1 and divided into very small flakes or scallops4 ,cut up an ounce or two of fresh butter and add it1 with a full seasoning of cayenne1 and as much salt as may be required4 ,stir the kedgeree constantly over a clear fire until it is very hot2 then mingle quickly with it two slightly beaten eggs4 ,do not let it boil after these are stirred in2 but serve the dish when they are just set4 ,a ,mauritian chatney may be sent to table with it4 ,the butter may be omitted1 and its place supplied by an additional egg or more4 ,cold turbot1 brill1 salmon1 soles1 ,john ,dory1 and shrimps1 may all be served in this form4 ,a ,,simple ,,syrian ,,pilaw4 ,drop gradually into three pints of boiling water one pint of rice which has been shaken in a cullender to free it from the dust and then well wiped in a soft clean cloth4 ,the boiling should not be checked by the addition of the rice1 which if well managed will require no stirring1 and which will entirely absorb the water4 ,it should be placed above the fire where the heat will reach it equally from below2 and it should boil gently that the grain may become quite tender and dry4 ,when it is so1 and the surface is full of holes1 pour in two or three ounces of clarified butter1 or merely add some1 cut up small2 throw in a seasoning of salt and white pepper1 or cayenne2 stir the whole up well1 and serve it immediately4 ,an onion1 when the flavour is liked1 may be boiled in the water1 which should afterwards be strained1 before the rice is added2 there should be three pints of it when the grain is dropped in4 ,small fried sausages or sausage-cakes may be served with it at pleasure for ,english eaters4 ,the rice may be well washed and thoroughly dried in a cloth when time will permit4 ,,simple ,,turkish ,,or ,,arabian ,,pilaw4 7,from ,mr4 ,lane1 the ,oriental ,traveller47 8,pilw or pilu is made by boiling rice in plenty of water for about twenty minutes1 so that the water drains off easily1 leaving the grains whole1 and with some degree of hardness2 then stirring it up with a little butter1 just enough to make the grains separate easily1 and seasoning it with salt and pepper4 ,often a fowl1 boiled almost to rags1 is laid upon the top4 ,sometimes small morsels of fried or roasted mutton or lamb are mixed up with it2 and there are many other additions2 but generally the ,turks and ,arabs add nothing to the rice but the butter1 and salt1 and pepper40 ,obs4--,we are indebted to the courtesy of ,mr4 ,lane for this receipt1 which was procured from him for us by one of his friends4 ,a ,,real ,,indian ,,pilaw4 ,boil three pounds of bacon in the usual manner2 take it out and drop into the same pan a pair of fowls compactly trussed as for boiling4 ,in three quarters of an hour1 unless very large1 they will be sufficiently cooked2 but they should be thoroughly boiled4 ,when they are so1 lift them out1 and place a hot cover and thick cloth over them4 ,take three pints and a half of the liquor in which they were boiled1 and add to it when it again boils1 nearly two pounds of well washed ,patna rice1 three onions1 a quarter of an ounce each of cloves and peppercorns1 with half as much of allspice1 tied loosely in a bit of muslin4 ,stew these together very gently for three quarters of an hour4 ,do not stir them as it breaks the rice4 ,take out the spice and onions2 lay in the fowls if necessary1 to heat them quite through1 and dish them neatly with the rice heaped smoothly over them4 ,garnish the pilaw with hot hard-boiled eggs cut in quarters1 or with fried forcemeat-balls1 or with half rings of onion fried extremely dry4 ,the bacon1 heated apart1 should be served in a separate dish4 ,obs4--,this is a highly approved receipt supplied to us by a friend who had long experience of it in ,india2 but we would suggest that to be really cooked so as to render it wholesome in this country1 a larger quantity of liquid should be added to it1 as one pint 7or pound7 will absorb three pints of water or broth3 and the time allowed for stewing it appears to us insufficient for it to become really tender4 ,a ,persian ,pilaw is made much in the same manner1 sometimes with morsels of fried kid mixed with the rice4 ,bacon1 #c lbs41 #a-a_/b to #b hours2 fowls1 #b42 ,rice1 nearly #b lbs4 ,broth from bacon and fowls1 #c-a_/b pints2 onions1 #c2 cloves and peppercorns1 #a_/d oz4 each2 allspice1 #a drachm3 #c_/d hour4 ,,indian ,,receipt ,,for ,,curried ,,fish4 ,take the fish from the bones1 and cut it into inch and half squares2 lay it into a stewpan with sufficient hot water to barely cover it2 sprinkle some salt over1 and boil it gently until it is about half cooked4 ,lift it out with a fish-slice1 pour the liquor into a basin1 and clear off any scum which may be on it4 ,should there be three or four pounds of the fish1 dissolve a quarter of a pound of butter in a stewpan1 and when it has become a little brown1 add two cloves of garlic and a large onion finely minced or sliced very thin2 fry them until they are well coloured1 then add the fish2 strew equally over it1 and stir it well up with from two to three tablespoonsful of ,bengal currie powder2 cover the pan1 and shake it often until the fish is nicely browned2 next add by degrees the liquor in which it was stewed1 and simmer it until it is perfectly done1 but not so as to fall into fragments4 ,add a moderate quantity of lemon-juice or chili vinegar1 and serve it very hot4 ,,bengal ,,currie ,,powder4 ,no4 #a4 ,mix thoroughly the following ingredients after they have been separately reduced to the finest powder and passed through a fine hair or lawn sieve3-- #f oz4 coriander seed4 #c oz4 black pepper4 #a oz4 cummin-seed4 #a-a_/b oz4 fenugreek-seed4 #c_/d oz4 cayenne pepper4 #c oz4 best pale turmeric4 ,set the powder before the fire to dry1 and turn it often2 then withdraw it1 let it become cold1 and bottle it immediately4 ,keep it closely corked4 ,obs4--,we cannot think a large proportion of black pepper a desirable addition to currie powder1 as it gives a strong coarse flavour3 but as it may be liked by persons who are accustomed to it1 we give the preceding and the following receipt without varying either3 the second appears to us the best4 ,coriander-seed #h oz4 ,chinese #d oz4 turmeric ,black pepper #b oz4 ,cassia #a_/b oz4 ,white ginger #a oz4 ,cayenne pepper #a_/b oz4 ,,risotto ,,la ,,milanaise4 ,slice a large onion very thin1 and divide it into shreds2 then fry it slowly until it is equally but not too deeply browned2 take it out and strain the butter1 and fry in it about three ounces of rice for every person who is to partake of it4 ,as the grain easily burns1 it should be put into the butter when it begins to simmer1 and be very gently coloured to a bright yellow tint over a slow fire4 ,add it to some good boiling broth lightly tinged with saffron1 and stew it softly in a copper pan for fifteen or twenty minutes4 ,stir to it two or three ounces of butter mixed with a small portion of flour1 a moderate seasoning of pepper or cayenne1 and as much grated ,parmesan cheese as will flavour it thoroughly4 ,boil the whole gently for ten minutes1 and serve it very hot1 at the commencement of dinner as a potage4 ,obs4--,the reader should bear in mind what we have so often repeated in this volume1 that rice should always be perfectly cooked1 and that it will not become tender with less than three times its bulk of liquid4 ,,stufato4 7,a ,neapolitan ,receipt47 8,take about six pounds of the silver side of the round1 and make several deep incisions in the inside1 nearly through to the skin2 stuff these with all kinds of savoury herbs1 a good slice of lean ham1 and half a small clove of garlic1 all finely minced1 and well mingled together2 then bind and tie the meat closely round1 so that the stuffing may not escape4 ,put four pounds of butter into a stewpan sufficiently large to contain something more than that quantity1 and the beef in addition2 so soon as it boils lay in the meat1 let it just simmer for five or six hours1 and turn it every half hour at least1 that it may be equally done4 ,boil for twenty-five minutes three pounds of pipe maccaroni1 drain it perfectly dry1 and mix it with the gravy of the beef1 without the butter1 half a pint of very pure salad oil1 and a pot of paste tomatas2 mix these to amalgamation1 without breaking the maccaroni2 before serving up1 sprinkle ,parmesan cheese thickly on the maccaroni40 ,we insert this receipt exactly as it was given to us by a friend1 at whose table the dish was served with great success to some ,italian diplomatists4 ,from our own slight experience of it1 we should suppose that the excellence of the beef is quite a secondary consideration1 as all its juices are drawn out by the mode of cooking1 and appropriated to the maccaroni1 of which we must observe that three pounds would make too gigantic a dish to enter well1 on ordinary occasions1 into an ,english service4 ,we have somewhere seen directions for making the stufato with the upper part of the sirloin1 thickly larded with large1 well-seasoned lardoons of bacon1 and then stewed in equal parts of rich gravy1 and of red or of white wine4 ,,broiled ,,eels ,,with ,,sage4 7,,entr,e47 7,german ,receipt47 ,good4 ,skin1 open1 and cleanse one fine eel 7or more71 cut it into finger-lengths1 rub it with a mixed seasoning of salt and white pepper1 and leave it for half an hour4 ,wipe it dry1 wrap each length in sage leaves1 fasten them round it with coarse thread1 roll the eel in good salad oil or clarified butter1 lay it on the gridiron1 squeeze lemon-juice over1 and broil it gently until it is browned in every part4 ,send it to table with a sauce made of two or three ounces of butter1 a tablespoonful of chili1 tarragon1 or common vinegar1 and one of water1 with a little salt2 to keep this smooth1 proceed as for the ,norfolk sauce of ,chapter ,v4 ,broiled fish is frequently served without any sauce4 ,a quite simple one may supply the place of that which we have indicated above3 eels being of so rich a nature1 require no other4 ,a ,,swiss ,,mayonnaise4 ,beat half a pound of butter to a cream1 and then add it very gradually to the hard-boiled yolks of six fresh eggs which have been cut into quarters1 separated carefully from the whites1 and pounded to a perfect paste2 when these are blended into a smooth sauce add1 a few drops at a time1 some of the finest salad oil that can be procured1 and work the mixture in the same manner as the mayonnaise of ,chapter ,,vi4 until no particle of it remains visible3 a small quantity of salt also must be thrown in1 and sufficient good vinegar in very small portions1 to give an agreeable acidity to the preparation4 7,fresh lemon-juice might be substituted in part for this1 and a little fine cayenne used with it2 but though we suggest this1 we adhere to our original ,swiss receipt for this excellent dish1 even when we think it might be slightly improved in flavour47 ,carve very neatly two delicate boiled fowls1 and trim the joints into handsome form4 ,lay the inferior parts upon a large plate1 and spread a portion of the sauce1 which should be very thick1 upon them2 arrange them in a flat layer in the dish in which they are to be served2 then sauce in the same way more of the joints1 and arrange them symmetrically over the others4 ,proceed thus to build a sort of pyramid with the whole2 and decorate it with the whites of the eggs1 and the hearts of small lettuces cut in halves4 ,place these last round the base alternately with whole bantams' or plovers' eggs1 boiled hard1 a small slice must be cut from the large end of each of these to admit of their being placed upright4 ,a slight branch of parsley1 or other foliage1 may be stuck in the tops4 ,roast chickens divested entirely of the skin1 can always be substituted for boiled ones in a mayonnaise3 they should all be separated into single joints with the exception of the wings4 ,the quite inferior parts need not be used at all4 ,the same sauce rather highly flavoured with cayenne1 and other condiments1 and more or less1 to the taste1 with essence of anchovies or anchovy butter1 and coloured with lobster-coral1 will make an excellent fish-salad1 with alternate slices of lobster1--cut obliquely to increase their size1--and of cold turbot or large soles4 ,these can be raised into a high border or chain round a dish when more convenient1 and the centre filled with young fresh salad1 sauced at the instant it is sent to table4 ,a ,french mayonnaise does not vary much from the preceding1 except in the composition of the sauce1 for which see ,chapter ,,vi4 ,it should always be kept very thick4 ,a little rich cold white sauce is sometimes mixed with it4 ,,tendrons ,,de ,,veau4 ,the tendrons 7or gristles7 which lie under the flesh of the brisket of a breast of veal are much used in foreign countries1 and frequently now in this1 to supply a variety of the dishes called entres4 ,when long stewed they become perfectly tender1 and yield a large amount of gelatine2 but they are quite devoid of flavour1 and require therefore to be cooked and served with such additions as shall render them palatable4 ,with a very sharp knife detach the flesh from them without separating it from the joint1 and turn it back1 so as to allow the gristles to be divided easily from the long bones4 ,cut away the chine-bone from their outer edge1 and then proceed first to soak them1 that they may be very white1 and to boil them gently for several hours1#aia either quite simply1 in good broth1 or with additions of bacon1 spice1 and vegetables4 ,foreign cooks braise them somewhat expensively1 and then serve them in many different forms2 but as they make1 after all1 but a rather unpretending entre1 some economy in their preparation would generally be desirable4 ,they may be divided at the joints1 and cut obliquely into thin slices before they are stewed1 when they will require but four hours simmering2 or they may be left entire and braised1 when they will require1 while still warm1 to be pressed between two dishes with a heavy weight on the top1 to bring them into good shape before they are divided for table4 ,they are then sometimes dipped into egg and bread-crumbs1 and fried in thin slices of uniform size2 or stewed tender1 then well drained1 and glazed1 dished in a circle1 and served with peas la ,franaise in the centre1 or with a thick pure of tomatas1 or of other vegetables4 ,they are also often used to fill vol-au-vents1 for which purpose they must be kept very white1 and mixed with a good bchamel-sauce4 ,we recommend their being highly curried1 either in conjunction with plenty of vegetables1 or with a portion of other meat1 after they have been baked or stewed as tender as possible4 ,footnote #aia3 ,we think that in the pasted jar which we have described in ,chapter ,,ix41 in the section of ,baking1 they might be well and easily cooked1 but we have not tried it4 ,,poitrine ,,de ,,veau ,,glac,e4 7,breast of ,veal ,stewed and ,glazed47 ,when the gristles have been removed from a breast of veal1 the joint will still make an excellent roast1 or serve to stew or braise4 ,take out the long-bones1#aib beat the veal with the flat side of a cleaver1 or with a cutlet-bat1 and when it is quite even1 cut it square1 and sprinkle over it a moderate seasoning of fine salt1 cayenne1 and mace4 ,make some forcemeat by either of the receipts ,nos4 #a1 #b1 #c1 or #g1 of ,chapter ,,viii41 but increase the ingredients to three or four times the quantity1 according to the size of the joint4 ,lay over the veal1 or not1 as is most convenient1 thin slices of half-boiled bacon1 or of ham2 press the forcemeat into the form of a short compact rouleau and lay it in the centre of one side of the breast2 then roll it up and skewer the ends closely with small skewers1 and bind the joint firmly into good form with tape or twine4 ,when thus prepared1 it may be slowly stewed in very good veal stock until it is tender quite through1 and which should be hot when it is laid in2 or embedded in the usual ingredients for braising 7see ,chapter ,,ix41 page #ahj71 and sent to table glazed1 sauced with an ,espagnole1 or other rich gravy1 and garnished with carrots la ,windsor 7see page #cce71 or with sweetbread cutlets1 also glazed4 ,footnote #aib3 ,this is very easily done by cutting through the skin down the centre of each4 ,,breast ,,of ,,veal4 ,,simply ,,stewed4#aic ,footnote #aic3 ,we give here the ,english receipt of an excellent practical cook for 8,stewed ,breast of veal10 as it may be acceptable to some of our readers1 ,after it has been boned1 flattened1 and trimmed1 season it well1 and let it lie for an hour or two 7this1 we do not consider essential72 then prepare some good veal forcemeat1 to which let a little minced shalot be added1 and spread it over the veal ,if you have any cold tongue or lean of ham1 cut it in square strips1 and lay them the short way of the meat that they may be shewn when it is carved4 ,roll it up very tight1 and keep it in good shape2 enclose it in a cloth as you would a jam-pudding1 and lace it up well1 then lay it into a braising-pan with three onions1 as many large carrots thickly sliced1 some spice1 sweet herbs1 and sufficient fresh second-stock or strong veal broth to more than half cover it1 and stew it very gently over a slow fire for three hours3 turn it occasionally without disturbing the braise which surrounds it4 ,glaze it before it is sent to table1 and serve it with ,spanish sauce1 or with rich ,english brown gravy1 flavoured with a glass of sherry2 and garnish it with stewed mushrooms in small heaps1 and fried forcemeat balls4 ,omit the forcemeat from the preceding receipt1 and stew the joint tender in good veal broth1 or shin of beef stock4 ,drain1 and dish it4 ,pour a little rich gravy round it1 and garnish it with nicely fried balls of the forcemeat ,no4 #a1 ,chapter ,,viii41 or with mushroom-forcemeat 7,no4 #g74 ,mushroom-sauce is always an excellent accompaniment to a joint of veal4 ,the liquor in which the breast is stewed or braised is too fat to serve as sauce until it has been cooled and cleared4 ,the veal can be cooked without boning1 but will have but an indifferent appearance4 ,it should in that case be slowly brought to boil1 and very gently simmered3 about two hours and a half will stew it tender4 ,the sweetbread1 after being scalded1 may be stewed with it for half the time1 and served upon it4 ,obs4--,the breast without the gristles1 boned and filled with forcemeat1 makes a superior roast4 ,it may also be boiled on occasion1 and served with balls of oyster-forcemeat in the dish2 or with white mushroom-sauce instead4 ,,compote ,,de ,,pigeons 7,,stewed ,,pigeons47 ,the ,french in much of their cookery use more bacon than would generally be suited to a very delicate taste1 we think4 ,this bacon1 from being cured without saltpetre1 and from not being smoked1 rather resembles salt pork in flavour3 we explain this that the reader may1 when so disposed1 adapt the receipts we give here to an ,english table by omitting it4 ,cut into dice from half to three quarters of a pound of streaked bacon1 and fry it gently in a large stewpan with a morsel of butter until it is very lightly browned2 lift it out1 and put in three or four young pigeons trussed as for boiling4 ,when they have become firm1 and lightly coloured1 lift them out1 and stir a large tablespoonful of flour to the fat4 ,when this thickening 7roux7 is also slightly browned1 add gradually to it a pint1 or something more1 of boiling veal-stock or strong broth2 put back the birds and the bacon1 with a few small button-onions when their flavour is liked1 and stew the whole very gently for three quarters of an hour4 ,dish the pigeons neatly with the bacon and onions laid between them2 skim all the fat from the sauce1 reduce it quickly1 and strain it over them4 ,the birds should be laid into the stewpan with the breasts downwards4 ,the third1 or half of a pottle of small mushrooms is sometimes added to this dish4 ,it may be converted into a compote aux petits pois by adding to the pigeons when the broth1 in which they are laid1 first begins to boil1 a pint and a half of young peas4 ,for these1 a pint and a quarter1 at the least1 of liquid will be required1 and a full hour's stewing4 ,the economist can substitute water for the broth4 ,when the birds can be had at little cost1 one1 two1 or more1 according to circumstances1 should be stewed down to make broth or sauce for the others4 ,obs4--,pigeons are excellent filled with the mushrooms au beurre1 of page #cbi1 and either roasted or stewed4 ,to broil them proceed as directed for a partridge 7,french receipt71 page #bij4 ,,mai ,,trank 7,,may-,,drink74 7,german47 ,illustration ,put into a large deep jug one pint of light white wine to two of red1 and dissolve in it sufficient sugar to sweeten it agreeably4 ,wipe a sound ,china orange1 cut it in rather thick slices1 without paring it1 and add it to the wine2 then throw in some small bunches or faggots of the fragrant little plant called woodruff2 cover the jug closely to exclude the air and leave it until the following day4 ,serve it to all ,may-day visitors4 ,one orange will be sufficient for three pints of wine4 ,the woodruff should be washed and well drained before it is thrown into the jug2 and the quantity of it used should not be very large1 or the flavour of the beverage will be rather injured than improved by it4 ,we have tried this receipt on a small scale with lemon-rind instead of oranges1 and the mixture was very agreeable4 ,rhenish wine should properly be used for it2 but this is expensive in ,england4 ,the woodruff is more odorous when dried gradually in the shade than when it is fresh gathered1 and imparts a pleasant fragrance to linen1 as lavender does4 ,it grows wild in ,kent1 ,surrey1 and other parts of ,england1 and flourishes in many suburban gardens in the neighbourhood of ,london4 ,a ,,viennese ,,souffl-,,pudding1 ,,called ,,salzburger ,,nockerl4 ,at the moment of going to press1 we have received direct from ,vienna the following receipt1 which we cannot resist offering to the reader for trial1 as we are assured that the dish is one of the most delicate and delicious souffl-puddings that can be made4 7,a7 ,take butter1 four ounces2 sugar in powder1 three ounces2 fine flour1 one ounce and a half or two ounces2 and the yellow of eight eggs2 beat these together in a convenient sized basin till the mixture gets frothy4 7,the butter should probably first be beaten to cream47 7,b7 ,beat to snow the whites of the eight eggs4 7,c7 ,take three pounds 7or pints7 of new milk1 put it in an open stewpan over a gentle fire1 and let it boil4 7,d7 ,next1 prepare a china casserole 7enamelled stewpan--a copper one will do7 by greasing its internal surface4 ,as soon as the milk boils1 mix gently ,a and ,b together1 and with a small spoon take portions of this shape and size and lay them over the surface of the boiling milk till it is entirely covered with them4 ,let them boil for four or five minutes to cook them2 then put them in convenient order on the ground of the greased casserole 7stewpan74 ,go on putting in the same manner small portions of the mixture on the surface of the boiling milk1 and when cooked1 place a new layer of them in the stewpan over the first2 and continue the same operation until the mixture is all consumed4 ,take now the remainder of the milk1 and add it to the beaten yellow 7yolks7 of two eggs1 some sugar1 and some powdered vanilla4 ,pour this over the cooked pastry in the stewpan1 and set it into a gently heated oven4 ,leave it there until it gets brown2 then powder it with vanilla-sugar1 and send it to the table4 -------------- ,author's ,note4--,the preceding directions were written by a physician of ,vienna1 at whose table the dish was served4 ,it was turned out of the casserole1 and served with the greatest expedition2 but we think it would perhaps answer more generally here1 to bake it in a souffl dish1 and to leave it undisturbed4 ,we would also suggest1 that the yolk of a third egg might sometimes be needed to bind the mixture well together4 ,a good and experienced cook would easily ascertain the best mode of ensuring the success of the preparation4 ,we must observe1 that the form of the enamelled stewpans made commonly in this country prevents their being well adapted for use in the present receipt3 those of copper are better suited to it4 ,half the proportion of the ingredients might1 by way of experiment1 be prepared and baked in a tart-dish1 as our puddings frequently are2 or in a small round cake mould1 with a band of writing paper fastened round the top4 ,the vanilla sugar is prepared by cutting the bean up small1 and pounding it with some sugar in a mortar1 and then passing it through a very fine sieve4 ,the 8cooked portions0 of which the souffl is principally composed are the shape1 and about half the size of the inside of an egg-spoon4 ,if somewhat larger1 they would possibly answer as well4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,index4 ------- ,acton gingerbread1 #eeb ,albert's1 ,prince1 pudding1 #daa ,almond1 cake1 #ede candy1 #eff cream1 for blamange1 #dgh macaroons1 #edd paste1 #cfg paste1 fairy fancies of1 #cfh paste1 tartlets of1 #cfg pudding1 #dbe pudding1 ,jewish1 #fjh shamrocks 7very good and very pretty71 #egd ,almonds to blanch1 #edb chocolate1 #efh to colour for cakes or pastry1 #edb in cheese-cakes1 #cfa to pound1 #edb in soups1 #ba to reduce to paste1 the quickest and easiest way1 #edb ,alose1 or ,shad1 to cook1 #gi ,american oven1 #agh ,anchovies1 to fillet1 #chi fried in batter1 #hd potted1 #cjf curried toasts with1 #chi ,anchovy1 butter1 #ach sauce1 #aae ,appel krapfen 7,german receipt71 #cgc ,apple cake1 #cfb calf's-feet jelly1 #dfd ,charlotte1 or ,charlotte de ,pommes1 #dhf marmalade for ,charlotte de ,pommes1 #dhg custards1 #dhb dumplings1 fashionable1 #dbj fritters1 #chd hedgehog1 or ,sudoise1 #dhj jelly1 #ebb jelly1 exceedingly fine1 #ebc juice1 prepared1 #def pudding1 #djh pudding1 common1 #dji sauce1 #abd sauce1 baked1 #abd sauce1 brown1 #abe soup1 #ba snow-balls1 #dba tart1 #cfc young green1 tart1 #cfd creamed tart1 #cfd ,apples1 baked compote of 7our little lady's receipt71 #egb buttered1 or ,pommes au beurre1 #dhh ,apricots1 compote of green1 #deg ,apricots dried1 ,french receipt for1 #eag to dry1 a quick and easy method1 #eag ,apricot blamange1 #dgi fritters1 #chd marmalade1 #eaf ,arabian1 or ,turkish ,pilw1 ,mr4 ,lane's receipt for1 #fad ,artichokes1 ,jerusalem1 la ,reine1 #cch to boil1 #cbf en salade1 #cbf to remove the chokes from1 #cbf ,jerusalem1 to boil1 #ccg ,jerusalem1 to fry1 #cch ,jerusalem1 mashed1 #cch soup of1 #ai ,asparagus1 to boil1 #cai to serve cold 7observation71 #cai points1 dressed like peas 7entremets71 #cai ,aspic1 or clear savoury jelly1 #ajd ,aroc ,doce1 or sweet rice la ,portugaise1 #dhi ,arrow-root1 to thicken sauces with1 #ajf to thicken soup with1 #b1 #d ,potato1 #aed sauce 7clear71 #djc ,bacon1 to boil1 #bei broiled or fried1 #bei ,cobbett's receipt for1 #beb dressed rashers of1 #bei ,french1 for larding1 #bed lardoons of1 #aha to pickle cheeks of1 #bed genuine ,yorkshire receipt for curing1 #bec super-excellent1 #bef ,bain-marie1 use of1 #aje ,baked apple-pudding1 or custard1 #dcg apple-pudding1 the lady's or invalid's1 new1 #fjh apple-pudding1 a common1 #dji compote of apples1 #egb minced beef1 #bjg round of spiced beef1 #aii beet-root1 #cci bread-puddings1 #dbi1 #dcj calf's feet and head1 #agh custard1 #dhc haddocks1 #gc ham1 #beh joints1 with potatoes1 #agi mackerel1 #gj marrow bones1 #bjh mullet1 #gf ox-cheek1 #bjh pike1 #ha potatoes1 #cab raisin puddings1 #dda1 #ddb salmon1 #fj1 #agi smelts1 #gh soles 7or soles au plat71 #ff soup1 #agh sucking-pig1 #bej whitings1 la ,franaise1 #fh ,baking1 directions for1 or oven cookery1 #agh ,banbury cakes1 #edi ,bantam's eggs1 to boil or poach1 #ddf1 #ddi ,barberries1 to pickle1 in bunches1 to preserve1 #ebf stewed1 for rice-crust1 #dei ,barberry jam1 a good receipt for1 #ebf jam1 another receipt for1 #ebg superior jelly and marmalade1 #ebg and rice pudding1 tart1 #cfd ,barley-sugar1 #efd ,barley-water1 excellent 7poor ,xury's receipt71 #ehc ,basket1 wire1 for frying1 #agg ,batter1 ,french1 for frying meat and vegetables1 c41 #acj cod's sounds fried in1 #fc salsify1 fried in1 #cda spring fruit1 fried in1 #chc to mix for puddings1 #cig ,bchamel1 #ajh ,beans1 ,french1 to boil1 #cba la ,franaise1 #cba another excellent receipt for1 #cbb ,windsor1 to boil1 #cbb ,beef1 la mode1 #aib breslaw of1 #bjf cake 7very good71 #aij to choose1 #ahd minced collops of1 au naturel1 #bja savoury minced collops of1 #bja ,scotch minced collops of1 #bjb richer minced collops of1 #bjb divisions of1 #ahd ,dutch or hung1 #aig extract of1 ,baron ,liebig's1 #f fillet of1 braised1 #ahj fillet of1 roast1 #ahg hashed1 ,french receipt for1 #bjf cold1 common hash of1 #bje cold1 excellent hash of1 #bje collared1 #aih collared1 another receipt for1 #aih gravy1 ,baron ,liebig's1 #if ,norman hash of1 #bjf heart1 to roast1 #bjd ,jewish 7smoked71 #fjf kidney1 to dress1 #bjd kidney 7a plainer way71 #bje marrow1 clarified for keeping1 #bjh marrow1 to prepare for frying croustades1 c41 #chh marrow-bones1 to boil1 #bjg marrow-bones1 baked1 #bjh minced1 baked1 #bjg palates 7,entre71 #aid palates 7,neapolitan mode71 #aie ,hamburg pickle for1 #aig another pickle for1 #aig ribs of1 to roast1 #ahe roll1 or canellon de buf1 #bja miniature round of1 #bjj round of1 to salt and boil1 #aif round of1 spiced1 #aii round of1 roast1 #ahf rump of1 to roast1 #ahf rump of1 to stew1 #aid to salt and pickle1 various ways1 #aif common receipt for salting1 #aih saunders of1 #bjg shin of1 to stew1 #aib shin of1 for stock1 #ig sirloin of1 to roast1 #ahe sirloin of1 stewed1 #aic spiced 7good and wholesome71 #aii smoked1 #fjf steak1 roast1 #ahg steak1 stewed1 #ahi steak1 stewed in its own gravy1 #ahi steaks1 best and most tender1 #ahe steaks1 broiled1 #ahg steaks1 broiled1 sauces appropriate to1 #ahh steaks1 fried1 #ahi steaks1 la ,franaise1 #ahh steaks1 la ,franaise1 another receipt for1 #ahi steak pie1 #ced steak puddings1 #cii1 #dja good ,english stew of1 #aia ,german stew1 #aij ,stufato1 #fae ,welsh stew of1 #aia tongue 7,bordyke's receipt for stewing71 #bjc tongue potted1 #cje tongues 7various modes of curing71 #bjb tongues1 to dress1 #bjc tongues1 ,suffolk receipt for1 #bjc ,beet-root1 to bake1 #cci to boil1 #cci to stew1 #cdj ,belgrave mould1 #dfi ,bengal currie powders1 #fae ,bermuda witches1 #dia ,birthday syllabub1 #eha ,biscuits1 ,aunt ,charlotte's1 #efa ,captain's1 good1 #efj ,colonel's1 #efa cheap ginger1 #efj ,threadneedle-street1 #efj wine1 #efj ,bishop1 ,oxford receipt for1 #ehj ,black-cap pudding1 #djg ,black-caps par excellence1 #dfj ,black cock1 and gray hen1 to roast1 #bia ,blamange1 or blanc manger1 apricot1 #dgi good common 7author's receipt71 #dgf calf's feet1 to make1 #ded currant1 #dgi quince 7delicious71 #dgh quince1 with almond cream1 #dgh rich1 #dgg strawberry 7extremely good71 #dgg strengthening1 #dgf ,blanc1 a1 #afi ,blanch1 to1 meat1 vegetables1 c41 #ahb ,blanquette1 of sucking pig1 #bej of veal or lamb with mushrooms1 #bbi ,boil1 to1 meat1 #afg a round of beef1 #aif ,boiled1 calf's head1 #baj chestnuts1 #bgd custards1 #dha eels 7,german receipt71 #hc fowls1 #bgc leeks1 #cah rice1 to serve with stewed fruit1 c41 #dbb rice-pudding1 #dai1 #dbj turnip radishes1 #cah breast of veal1 #bah fillet of veal1 #bag knuckle of veal1 #bba loin of veal1 #bah ,boiling1 general directions for1 #afg scientific1 ,baron ,liebig's directions for1 #afh ,bonbons1 palace1 #efg ,bone1 to1 calf's head for brawn1 #bd1 #bae calf's head1 the cook's receipt1 #baa calf's head for mock turtle soup1 #bd a fowl or turkey without opening it1 #bfe a fowl or turkey1 another mode1 #bfe fowls1 for fricassees1 curries1 and pies1 #bff a hare1 #bhe a leg of mutton1 #bcf a loin of mutton for pies1 #cee a breast of veal1 #fah a shoulder of veal or mutton1 #bai neck of venison for pies1 #ceb ,boning1 general directions for1 #ahb ,bottle ,jack1 #agj ,bottled fruits1 for winter use1 gooseberries1 tomatas1 or tomata-catsup1 #aea ,boudin1 la ,richelieu1 #bhh ,boudinettes of lobsters1 c41 #ib ,boulettes1 potato1 #cad ,bouilli1 ,french receipt for hashed1 #bjf ,bouillon1 observations on1 #i ,brain cakes1 #afb another receipt for1 #afb ,braise1 to burn1 #ahj ,braised fillet of beef1 #ahj leg of mutton1 #bcf ,braising1 directions for1 #ahj ,brandy1 cherry 7,tappington ,everard receipt71 #egi lemon1 for flavouring sweet dishes1 #aec peaches preserved in1 #ega trifle1 or tipsy cake1 #bgd ,brandied morella cherries1 #ega ,brawn ,brack1 cake 7,irish71 #edf good1 light1 #eed ,brawn1 calf's head 7author's receipt71 #bae ,tenbridge1 #bfj ,bread1 ,bordyke receipt for1 #eig to know when baked1 #fjd ,bavarian brown1 ,liebig's1 #eii brown1 ,english1 #eii crumbs1 fried1 #aca crumbs1 to prepare for frying fish1 #aca dairy1 without yeast1 #fjb to freshen stale1 #fjc to fry for garnishing1 #aca to fry for soups1 #e with ,german yeast1 #eih home-made1 remarks on1 #eid household1 #eif to keep1 #fjc partridges served with1 #bgi patties1 #chg potato1 #fjj puddings1 #dah1 #dcj and butter puddings1 #dbh1 #dbi rules to be observed in making1 #eif sauce1 #aab sauce with onion1 #aac unfermented1 #eii to purify yeast for1 #eie ,bream1 sea1 to dress1 #ge ,brioche paste1 #cdi ,brill1 to boil1 #eh ,broccoli1 #cbf ,broiled beef steak1 #ahg bacon1 #bei cutlets1 mutton1 #bda cutlets1 pork1 #bea eels with sage 7,german71 #fag fowl1 #bgd mackerel1 #ga red mullet1 #gf partridge1 #bij partridge 7,french receipt71 #bij ,broiling1 general directions for1 #age ,broil1 the ,cavalier's1 #bdj ,broth1 or bouillon1 #f veal1 or mutton1 #dd ,browned flour for thickening soups and sauces1 #aca ,browning1 with salamander1 #ahc ,brown1 rich1 ,english gravy1 #ii apple sauce1 #abe caper sauce1 #aba chestnut sauce1 #abi mushroom sauce1 #abc onion sauce1 #abe rabbit soup1 #ca ,brown to1 with salamander1 #ahc ,brussels sprouts1 #cdj ,buns1 light1 of different kinds1 #eei ,exeter1 #eei excellent soda1 #efa ,geneva1 #fja ,burdwan1 an ,indian1 #fab ,burlington ,whimsey1 #bab ,burnt coffee1 or gloria1 #eib ,buttered apples1 #dhh cherries1 #dij ,butter1 anchovy1 #ach burnt1 or browned1 #aji clarified1 for storing and for immediate use1 #aaj to cool for crust1 #cde creamed1 and otherwise prepared for cakes1 #edc lobster1 #ach melted1 good common1 #ajh melted1 ,french1 #aji melted1 rich1 #ajh melted1 rich1 without flour1 #aji melted1 white1 #aji loin of lamb stewed in1 #bdf truffled1 #aci ,buttermilk1 for bread1 #fjb ,cabbage1 to boil1 #ccb stewed1 #ccc red1 to stew 7,flemish receipt71 #cdj red1 to pickle1 #eci ,caf noir1 #eib ,cake1 fine almond1 #ede apple1 #cfb beef or mutton1 #aij breakfast1 ,french1 #edi a cheap common1 #eee cream cake1 #eed thick1 light gingerbread1 #eea a good light luncheon cake1 #eed cheap nursery1 #eee a good ,madeira1 #edh pound1 #edf rice1 #edf sausage-meat1 or pain de porc frais1 #bfa a good soda1 #eef a good sponge1 #edg a smaller sponge1 #edg tipsy1 #dgd veal1 #bbb veal1 good 7,bordyke receipt for71 #bbb ,venetian or ,neapolitan 7super-excellent71 #edg white1 #edf ,cakes1 ,banbury1 #edi to colour sugar candy for1 #edb flead1 or fleed1 #eeh cocoa-nut gingerbread1 #eeb common gingerbread1 #eec richer gingerbread1 #eec queen1 #eef general remarks on1 #edj very good small rich1 #eeh to prepare butter for rich1 #edc to whisk eggs for light rich1 #edc small1 sugar1 various1 #eeh small ,venetian1 #edh ,calf's head1 la ,matre d',htel1 #bad boiled1 #baj brawn 7author's receipt71 #bae to clear the hair from1 #baj cutlets of1 #bac hashed1 #bac a cheap hash of1 #bac prepared1 the cook's receipt1 #baa soup1 #bg ,the ,warder's way1 #baa ,calf's feet jelly 7entremets71 #dfa another receipt for1 #dfb jelly1 apple1 #dfd jelly1 orange1 #dfd modern varieties of1 #dfc to prepare for stock1 #dec stewed1 #bbh stock1 #dec stock1 to clarify1 #ded ,calf's liver1 stoved or stewed1 #bbh roast1 #bbi sweetbreads1 #bbg ,cambridge milk punch1 #eha ,candy1 cocoa-nut1 #eff ginger1 #efe orange-flower1 #efe orange-flower 7another receipt for71 #eff ,canellon de buf1 #bja ,canellons1 filled with apricot or peach marmalade1 #che of brioche paste1 #che ,caper sauce1 #aba sauce for fish1 #aba ,capillaire in punch1 #ehj ,caramel1 to boil sugar to1 #efc the quickest way1 #efc ,carp1 to stew1 #hb ,carrots1 au beurre1 #ccf to boil1 #cce in their own juice #ccg mashed1 or buttered 7,dutch71 #ccf in plum pudding1 #dag sweet1 for second course1 #ccf the ,windsor receipt 7,entre71 #cce ,carrot1 soup1 common1 #bj soup1 a finer1 #bj ,casserole of rice1 savoury1 #cea of rice1 sweet1 #dch ,catsup1 the cook's1 or compound1 #adi lemon1 #aej mushroom1 #adf1adh mushroom1 double1 #adh pontac1 for fish1 #aej tomato1 #aea walnut1 #adi1 #aej ,cauliflowers1 to boil1 #cbe ,french receipt for1 #cbe la ,franaise1 #cbf with ,parmesan cheese1 #cbe ,cavalier's1 the1 broil1 #bdj ,cayenne1 vinegar1 #aec ,celery1 boiled1 #cda salad1 to serve with pheasants1 #cda sauce1 #abh stewed1 #cda ,chantilly baskets1 #dgd ,charlotte de pommes1 or apple ,charlotte1 #dhf la ,parisienne1 #dhg ,chatnies 7,mauritian71 #add1 #faj ,cheese1 damson1 #ebj in fondu1 #cgi ,italian pork1 #bfj with maccaroni1 #cib with maccaroni1 la ,reine1 #cic in ramakins1 #cge to serve with white and maccaroni soup1 #ac cheese-cakes1 cocoa-nut 7,jamaica receipt71 #cga ,madame ,werner's ,rosenvik1 #cgb ,cherries1 brandied1 morella1 #ega ,cherries1 compote of ,kentish1 #deh compote of morella1 #deh morella1 to dry1 #ejd dried with sugar1 #ejb dried without1 #ejc dried1 superior receipt1 #ejc to pickle1 #ecb brandy1 #egi cherry1 cheese1 #ejd cherry1 paste1 #ejd ,chestnuts1 boiled1 #egd roasted1 #egd stewed1 #cdb ,chestnut forcemeat1 ,no4 #ae1 #afb sauce1 brown1 #abi sauce1 white1 #abi soups1 #ai ,chetney1 various ways of making1 #add ,chicken1 broiled1 #bgd cutlets1 #bge1 #bgf fried1 la ,malabar1 #bgf patties 7good71 #cei potato pasty1 #cej ,chicken pie 7common71 #cec modern pie1 #cec ,chickens1 boiled1 #bgc fricasseed1 #bge in soup1 #bi ,china chilo of mutton1 #bda ,chocolate1 almonds1 #efh drops1 #efg to make1 #eib ,spanish receipt for making1 #eib ,chops1 lamb or mutton1 broiled1 #bda mutton1 stewed in their own gravy 7good71 #bdj pork1 #bea ,chorissa1 or ,jewish sausage1 with rice1 #fjg ,christopher ,north's own sauce for many meats1 #aai ,cocoa1 to make1 #eic ,cocoa-nut candy1 #eff cheese-cakes1 #cga in curries1 #bif ,doce1 #dij gingerbread1 #eec macaroons1 #ede puddings1 #dbd soup1 #ai ,cod fish1 to boil1 #fa slices of1 fried1 #fa stewed1 #fb stewed in brown sauce1 #fb ,cod's sounds1 to boil1 #fc to fry in batter1 #fc ,coffee1 to boil1 #eia breakfast1 ,french1 #eij burnt1 or coffee la ,militaire1 vulgarly called ,glosia1 #eib to filter1 #eij directions for making1 #ehi strong1 clear1 to serve after dinner1 called caf noir1 #eib remarks on1 #ehg to roast1 #ehh roaster1 #ehh ,cold1 calf's head1 to re-dress1 #bad ,cold1 fowls1 ditto1 #bgf1 #bgg leg of mutton1 ditto1 #bjg ,matre d',htel1 sauce1 #acc meat1 excellent sauces to serve with1 #acc1 #acd1 #acf salmon1 to dress1 #ei turbot1 ditto1 #ei ,collops minced1 au naturel1 #bja savoury minced1 #bja saut-pan for frying1 #agf ,scotch1 #bbf ,scotch minced1 #bjb ,compote of apples1 baked 7our little ,lady's receipt71 #egb of green apricots1 #deg of bullaces1 #deh of cherries1 #deh of ,kentish cherries1 #deh of ,morella cherries1 #deh of green currants1 #deg of red currants1 #deg of damsons1 #deh of figs1 #dib of green gooseberries1 #deg of magnum bonum1 or other large plums1 #deh of peaches1 #dei of peaches1 another receipt1 #dei ,compote de pigeons1 #fai ,compote de pigeons aux petits pois1 #fai of ,siberian crabs1 #deh of spring fruit 7rhubarb71 #deg ,confectionary1 #efb ,conjurer1 a1 its uses1 #age ,consomm1 #aj ,constantia jelly1 #dfg ,cookery 7,english71 common causes of its failure1 #afg ,cool cup1 a1 #ehb ,corn1 ,indian green1 to boil1 #cbi ,counsellor's cup1 #ehe ,crab1 cold1 dressed1 #hh hot1 #hi ,creamed tartlets1 #cge spring fruit1 or rhubarb trifle1 #dhf ,cream1 ,chantilly basket filled with1 #dgd ,cream cake1 delicious1 #eed crust1 #cdg ,devonshire1 or clotted1 #dea jelly1 filled with1 #dfi lemon1 made without cream1 #dge ,nesselrde1 #dga remarks on1 #dej ,swiss1 #dgc in soups1 #ai1 #bb1 #bi1 #cj ,creams1 lemon 7very good71 #dge fruit1 #dge ,italian1 #dge ,crme la ,comtesse1 or the ,countess's cream1 #bgb ,crme1 ,parisienne1 #dgi patissiere1 #cgc ,crisped potatoes1 or potato-ribbons1 to serve with cheese1 #cac ,croquettes of rice 7entremets71 #che of rice1 filled with preserve1 of rice1 savoury1 #chf ,croustades1 or ,dresden patties1 #chg of various kinds1 #chg small1 dressed in marrow1 #chh small1 la bonne maman1 #chi to prepare marrow for frying1 #chh ,crote aux-champignons1 or mushroom-toast1 #ccj ,crust butter1 for puddings1 #cih cream1 #cdg flead1 #cdg ,french1 for hot or cold meat pies1 #cdg excellent short1 #cdi rich short1 for tarts1 #cdi ,crust1 common suet for pies1 #cdh very superior suet1 for pies1 #cdh suet1 for puddings1 #cih ,crusts1 to serve with cheese1 #cih ,cucumber 7author's receipt71 to dress1 #cbc soup1 #ch vinegar1 #aeb ,cucumbers la ,crme1 #cbd la ,poulette1 #cbd dressed1 #cbc fried1 #cbd stewed1 #cbc ,curds and whey1 #dea ,currants1 to clean for puddings and cakes1 #cig green1 stewed1 #deg red1 stewed1 #deg ,currant1 blamange1 #dgi custard1 #dhb dumplings1 #dba jam1 red 7delicious71 #eji jam1 white1 #eaj jelly1 fine black1 #eaa jelly1 ,french1 #eji jelly1 superlative red1 #eji jelly1 white1 very fine1 #eaj jelly1 tartlets1 #cge paste1 #eaj pudding1 #djh syrup1 or sirop de groseilles1 #egi ,curried eggs #cja gravy1 #cjb maccaroni1 #cjj oysters1 #cjb toasts1 with anchovies1 #chi sweetbreads1 #cja ,currie1 ,mr4 ,arnott's1 #big a ,bengal1 #bih a dry1 #bih common ,indian1 #bii ,currie powder1 ,mr4 ,arnott's1 #big ,curries1 remarks on1 #bif ,selim's 7,capt4 ,white's71 #cjj ,custard1 baked1 common1 #dhc a finer #dhc currant1 #dhb the ,duke's1 #dhb the ,queen's1 #dha veal1 or a ,sefton1 #cfb ,custards1 boiled1 good1 old-fashioned1 #dha boiled1 rich1 #dha chocolate1 #dhc ,french1 #dhd quince1 or apple1 #dhb ,cutlets of calf's head1 #bac ,chicken1 ,english1 #bge of fowls1 partridges1 or pigeons 7,entre71 #bgf lamb1 in their own gravy1 stewed1 #bdf lamb1 or mutton1 with ,soubise sauce1 #bdf mutton1 broiled1 #bda of cold mutton1 #bdc mutton1 in their own gravy1 stewed1 #bdj pork1 #bea veal la ,franaise1 #bbf veal l',indienne1 or ,indian fashion1 #bbe veal la mode de ,londres1 or ,london fashion1 #bbf veal1 plain1 #bbe of sweetbreads1 #bbg ,damson1 cheese1 #ebj jam1 #eai jelly1 #eai solid1 #eai pudding1 #djh ,des ,cerneaux1 or walnut salad1 #ada ,devonshire junket1 #deb ,dough nuts1 ,isle of ,wight1 receipt for1 #eef ,dresden patties1 or croustades1 #chg ,dried apples1 to stew1 #egb apricots1 ,french receipt1 #eag cherries1 with sugar1 #ejb1 #ejc cherries1 without sugar1 #ejc gooseberries1 with and without sugar1 #eja mushrooms1 #aec plums 7,pruneaux de ,tours71 to stew1 #egc ,dry1 to apricots1 a quick and easy method1 #eag ,imperatrice plums1 #eba ,mogul plums1 #eae peaches or nectarines1 #eah ,duck1 stewed1 #bgi ,ducks1 to roast1 #bgi stuffing for1 ,no4 #i1 #afj wild1 to roast1 #bid ,dumplings1 apple 7fashionable7 #dbj currant1 light1 #dba lemon1 #dba ,norfolk1 #dba ,suffolk1 or hard1 #dba ,dutch1 or hung beef1 #aig custard1 #dch flummery1 #dgg ,eels1 boiled1 ,german receipt1 #hc ,cornish receipt1 #hd to fry1 #hc ,egg balls1 #afb sauce1 for calf's head1 #aaa sauce1 common1 #aaj sauce1 good1 #aaj a swan's1 to boil hard1 #ddh swan's1 en salade1 #ddh ,eggs1 to boil in the shell1 #dde to cook in the shell1 without boiling1 #dde continental mode of dressing1 or ufs au plat1 #dej ,eggs1 to dress ,guinea fowls or ,bantams1 #daf to dress turkeys1 #dag curried1 #cja forced turkey's or swan's1 #ddg forced1 for salad1 #acg to preserve for many weeks1 #ddd poached1 with gravy1 #ddi to poach1 #ddi to whisk1 for cakes1 #edc ,elderberry wine1 #ehd ,elegant1 the ,economist's1 pudding1 #dae1 #dbh lobster salad1 #adb ,english1 brioche1 #cdi brown gravy1 #ii game pie1 #ceb puff paste1 #cdf stew1 #aia ,entres1 beef cake1 #aij beef collops1 #bja beef palates1 #aid1 #aie beef roll1 or canellon de buf1 #bja beef steaks la ,franaise1 #ahh1 #ahi beef tongues1 #bjb ,bengal currie1 #bih blanquette of sucking pig1 #bej blanquette of veal or lamb1 with mushrooms1 #bbi broiled mutton cutlets1 #bda broiled ox-tail1 #aie boudinettes of lobsters1 shrimps1 c41 #ib calf's head la ,matre d',htel1 #bad calf's head1 the ,warder's way1 #baa calf's liver1 stewed1 #bbh casserole of rice1 #cea chicken cutlets1 #bge chicken patties1 #cei compote de pigeons1 #bii curries1 #big1 #bih1 #bii1 #cjj1 #cja1 #cjb1 #fae croquettes of savoury1 of rice1 #chf croustades filled with mince1 #chg cutlets of calf's head1 #bac cutlets of fowls1 partridges1 or pigeons1 #bge ,dresden patties1 #chg fillets of mackerel1 #ga fillets of mackerel in wine1 #gb fillets of soles1 #fe fillets of whitings1 #fhaid fowls1 la ,carlsfors1 #bgc fricandeau of veal1 #bbc fricasseed fowls or chickens1 #bgd fried chicken la ,malabar1 #bge hashed fowl1 #bgf lamb cutlets in their own gravy1 #bdf lamb or mutton cutlets1 with soubise sauce1 #bdf lobster cutlets1 #ia lobsters fricasseed1 #hi loin of lamb stewed in butter1 #baf minced fowl1 #bgf minced veal with oysters1 #bca mutton cutlets in their own gravy1 #baj mutton kidneys la ,franaise1 #bac ,oxford receipt for mutton kidneys1 #bad oyster patties1 #cei oyster sausages1 #hg patties la pontife and la cardinale1 #cfj pork cutlets1 #bea rissoles1 #chg salmis of game1 #bib1 #bid savoury croquettes of rice1 #chf savoury rissoles1 #chg sausages and chestnuts1 #bfb scallops of fowl au bchamel1 #bgg ,sefton1 a1 or veal custard1 #cfb small pain de veau1 or veal cake1 #bbb spring stew of veal1 #bbd stewed beef-steak1 #ahi stewed calf's feet1 #bbh stewed duck1 #bgh stewed leg of lamb1 with white sauce1 #bde stewed ox-tails1 #aie stewed tongue1 #bjc sweetbread cutlets1 #bbg sweetbreads1 stewed1 fricasseed1 or roasted1 #bbg truffled sausages1 or saucisses aux truffles1 #bfc veal cutlets1 #bbe veal cutlets or collops1 la ,franaise1 #bbf veal cutlets l',indienne1 or ,indian fashion1 #bbe veal cutlets la mode de ,londres1 or ,london fashion1 #bbf veal fricasseed1 #bca minced1 #bcj vol-au-vent1 #ceg small vols-au-vents1 #cgd ,entremets1 apfel krapfen 7,german receipt71 #cgc apple cake1 or ,german tart1 #cfb apple calf's feet jelly1 #dfd ,charlotte1 #dhf apple custards1 #dhb apple1 peach1 or orange fritters1 #chd apple hedgehog1 or ,sudoise1 #dhj apple tarts1 #cfc apricot blamange1 #dgi aroc doc1 or sweet rice la ,portugaise1 #dhi asparagus points1 dressed like peas1 #cai barberry tart1 #cfd ,bermuda witches1 #dia blamanges 7various71 #dgf-dgi ,entremets1 ,black caps1 par excellence1 #dfj boiled custards1 #dha brioche fritters1 #chd buttered cherries1 or cerises au beurre1 #dij calf's feet jelly1 #dfa1 #dfc canellons1 #che canellons of brioche paste1 #che cauliflowers la ,franaise1 #cbf cauliflowers with ,parmesan cheese1 #cbe ,chantilly basket1 #dgd ,charlotte la ,parisienne1 #dhg chocolate custard1 #dhc cocoa-nut cheese cakes1 #cga compote of peaches1 #dei compotes 7various7 of fruit1 #deg1 #deh constantia jelly1 #dfg creamed tartlets1 #cge crme la ,comtesse1 or the ,countess's cream1 #dgb croquettes of rice1 #che croquettes of rice1 finer1 #chf croustades1 or sweet patties la minute1 #chg cucumbers la crme1 #cbd cucumbers1 la poulette1 #cbd currant jelly tartlets or custards1 #cge custards 7baked71 #dhc custards 7various71 #dha1 #dhd dressed maccaroni1 #cib fairy fancies1 #cfh fanchonettes1 #cgd forced eggs1 or eggs en surprise1 #ddg ,french beans la ,franaise1 #cba gteau of mixed fruits1 #dfa gteau de pommes1 #dfj gteau de riz1 #dcc gteau de semoule1 #dcj genoises la ,reine1 #cff ,german puffs1 #dhd ,gertrude la crme1 #dhg green peas la ,franaise1 #cbj green peas with cream1 #cba imperial gooseberry fool1 #dhj ,italian creams1 #dge jaumange1 or jaune manger1 #dgg ,jerusalem artichokes la ,reine1 #cch lemon calf's feet jelly1 #dfg lemon creams1 #dge lemon fritters1 #chd lemon sandwiches1 #cgd lemon sponge1 #dhj lemon tartlets1 #cgb lobster au bchamel1 #hi lobster salad1 #adb ,louise ,franks' citron souffl1 #cgh ,madame ,werner's ,rosenvik cheese cakes1 #cgb ,madeleine puddings1 #dcb ,meringue of pears1 #dhf ,meringues1 #eej1 #eea mincemeat fritters1 #chc mince pies1 #cfi mince pies royal1 #cgj monitor's tart1 #cgj moulded rice1 or sago1 and apple-juice1 #dbb mushroom-toast1 #ccj mushrooms au beurre1 #cbi ,nesselrde pudding1 #dia omlette aux fines herbes1 #chj omlette souffle1 #cha orange calf's feet jelly1 #dcd orange fritters1 #chd orange isinglass jelly1 #dfe oranges filled with jelly1 #dff pancakes1 #chb pastry sandwiches1 #cgd plain common fritters1 #cha pommes au beurre1 or buttered apples1 #dhh potatoes la ,matre d',htel1 #cae potato boulettes1 #cad potato fritters1 #chd potato-ribbons1 #cac potted meats1 #cjc prawns1 #ic pudding-pies1 #cga ,queen ,mab's summer pudding1#aie #dgj quince blamange1 #dgh ramakins l',ude1 #cge raspberry puffs1 #cge rice la ,vathek1 #ddj salad of lobster1 #adb sea-kale1 #caf sea-kale stewed in gravy1 #caf scooped potatoes1 #cab spinach l',anglaise1 #cag spinach 7,french receipt71 #caf stewed celery1 #cda strawberry blamange1 #dgg strawberry isinglass jelly1 #dfh strawberry tartlets1 #cge sudoise of peaches1 #dhh sweet carrots1 #ccf sweet casserole of rice1 #dch sweet maccaroni1 #dij ,swiss cream1 or trifle1 #dgc tartlets of almond paste1 #cfg tipsy cake1 or brandy trifle1 #dgd tourte meringue1 #cfc trifle 7excellent71 #dgc truffles l',italienne1 #cca truffles la serviette1 #cca turnips in white sauce1 #ccd ,venetian fritters1 #chc ,vol-au-vent la crme1 #ceh ,vol-au-vent of fruit1 #ceh ,vols-au-vent1 small1 la ,parisienne1 #cgd ,epicurean sauce1 #aea ,eschalots1 to pickle1 #ecg to serve with venison1 #bhd ,eschalot sauce1 mild1 #abg vinegar1 #aeb wine1 #aec ,espagnole1 or ,spanish sauce1 #ajj with wine1 #ajj ,fairy ,fancies 7fantaisies de fes71 #cfh ,fanchonnettes 7entremets71 #cgd ,fancy jellies1 #dfi ,fermentation of bread1 #fjd ,feuilletage1 or fine puff paste1 #cde ,figs1 stewed1 #dib ,fillets of mackerel boiled1 #ga of mackerel1 fried or broiled1 #ga of mackerel stewed in wine1 #gb of soles1 #fe of whitings1 #fh ,fillet of mutton1 #bch of veal au bchamel1 with oysters1 #bae of veal1 boiled1 #bag of veal1 roast1 #baf ,finnan haddocks 7to dress71 #gd ,fish1 to bake1 #ee boiled1 to render firm1 #ed brine1 for boiling1 #ed best mode of boiling1 #ec to choose1 #dh to clean1 #ej cooking1 mode of1 best adapted to different kinds of1 #ea fat for frying1 #ee to keep1 #ea to keep hot for table1 #ef to know when cooked1 #ee to sweeten when tainted1 #ea salt1 to boil1 #fb salt1 la ,matre d',htel1 #fc salt1 in potato-pasty1 #cej shell1 dishes of1 #he ,flead1 or fleed crust1 #cdg ,flavouring1 for sweet dishes1 #def ,flounders1 to boil1 and fry1 #ge ,flour1 browned1 for thickening soups1 c41 #aca ,flour of potatoes 7fecule de pommes de terre71 #aed of rice1 #aed ,fondu1 a1 #cgi ,forced turkeys' or swans' eggs1 #ddg turkey1 #bfh ,forcemeats1 general remarks on1 #aef ,forcemeat balls for mock turtle1 ,no4 #aa1 #afa chestnut1 ,no4 #ae1 #afb ,mr4 ,cooke's for geese or ducks1 ,no4 #aj1 #afa good common1 for veal1 turkeys1 c41 ,no4 #a1 #aeg another good common1 ,no4 #b1 #aeg ,french1 an excellent1 ,no4 #af1 #afc ,french1 called quenelles1 ,no4 #ag1 #afc for hare1 ,no4 #h1 #afj mushroom1 ,no4 #g1 #aei oyster1 ,no4 #e1 #aei oyster1 finer1 ,no4 #f1 #aei for raised1 and other cold pies1 ,no4 #ah1 #afd common suet1 ,no4 #d1 #aeh superior suet1 ,no4 #c1 #aeh ,fourneau conomique1 or portable ,french furnace1 #did1 #die ,fowl1 a1 to bone1 without opening it1 #bfe to bone1 another way1 #bfe ,fowl1 to bone1 for fricassees1 c41 #bff to broil1 #bgd la ,carlsfors1 #bgc fried1 la ,malabar 7entre71 #bgf hashed1 #bgf minced 7,french and other receipts71 #bgg minced1 ,french receipt 7entre71 #bgf roast 7,french receipt71 #bgc to roast a1 #bgb scollops of1 au bchamel1 #bgh ,fowl-,guinea1 to roast a1 #bgc ,fowl1 wild1 #bid salmi of1 #bid ,fowls la mayonnaise1 #bgh to bone1 for fricassees1 curries1 and pies1 #bff boiled1 #bgd cutlets of1 ,english 7entre71 #bge fricasseed1 #bge cold1 fritot of1 #bgg cold1 grillade of1 #bgh ,french batter1 for frying fruit1 vegetables1 c41 #acj melted butter1 #aji breakfast cake1 or ,sally ,lunn1 #edi crust1 for hot or cold pies1 #cdg receipt for boiling a ham1 #beh ,matre d',htel sauce1 #aaf1 #aag rice pudding1 #dcc partridges1 #bij semoulina pudding1 #dcj salad1 #adj salad dressing1 #adj salmi1 or hash of game1 #bib thickening1 or roux1 #ajf beans1 la ,franaise1 #cba beans1 an excellent receipt for1 #cbb beans1 to boil1 #cba ,fresh herrings 7,farleigh receipt for71 #gd ,fricandeau of veal1 #bbc ,fried anchovies in batter1 #hd bread-crumbs1 #aca bread for garnishing1 #aca canellons1 #che cod-fish1 slices of1 #fa ,jerusalem artichokes1 #cch mackerel1 #gj parsnips1 #ccg potatoes1 #cac salsify1 #cda soles1 #fd ,fritters1 apple1 apricot1 orange1 or peach1 #chd brioche1 #chd cake1 #chb lemon1 #chd mincemeat 7very good71 #chc orange1 #chd plain1 common1 #cha of plum pudding1 #chb potato1 #chd of spring fruit 7rhubarb71 #chc ,venetian1 #chc ,fruit1 to bottle for winter use1 #ebb creams1 #dge en chemise1 #egj isinglass jellies1 #dfd-dfi to weigh the juice of1 #dih directions for preserving1 #dif remarks on 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,goose1 to deprive of its strong odour1 ,obs3 #bga to roast1 #bga to roast a green1 #bga ,gooseberries1 to bottle for tarts1 #dii dried1 with sugar1 #dii dried1 without sugar1 #eja ,gooseberry jam1 red1 #ejj jam1 very fine1 #ejj jelly1 #ejj1 #eja paste1 #eja pudding1 #dce1 #djh1 #dbj sauce for mackerel1 #abj ,grape jelly1 #ebj ,gravies1 to heighten the colour and flavour of1 #if introductory remarks on1 #hd shin of beef stock for1 #ig ,gravy1 good beef or veal 7,english receipt71 #ii ,baron ,liebig's beef 7most excellent71 #if rich brown1 #ii ,gravy cheap1 for a fowl1 #aja another cheap1 #ajb curried1 #cjb ,espagnole1 highly-flavoured1 #ajj ,espagnole with wine1 #ajj for a goose1 #ajb in haste1 #aja jus des rognons1 or kidney gravy1 #aja orange1 for wild fowl1 #ajb veal1 rich1 deep-coloured1 #ih veal1 rich1 pale1 or consomm1 #ig for venison1 plain1 #ii for haunch of venison1 #bhc rich1 for venison1 #ajj sweet sauce1 or gravy1 for venison1 #ajj soup1 or stock1 clear1 pale1 #aj soup1 cheap1 clear1 #aa soup1 another receipt for1 #aj ,gray hen1 to roast1 #bia ,green goose1 to roast1 #bga mint sauce1 #acb mint vinegar1 #aeb orange plum1 preserve of1 #ead peas1 la ,franaise1 #cbj peas1 with cream1 #cba pea-soup1 cheap1 #dj peas-soup1 excellent1 #ci peas-soup1 without meat1 #ci ,greengage jam1 or marmalade1 #eae ,groseille1 #eac ,ground rice puddings1 #dce in pudding-pies1 #cga ,grouse1 to roast1 #bib salmi of1 #bib ,guava1 ,english1 #ebj strawberry jelly1 which resembles1 #eje ,guinea-fowl1 to roast1 #bgc ,gurnards1 to dress in various ways1 #gd ,haddocks1 baked1 #gc to boil1 #gc ,finnan1 to dress1 #gd to fry1 #gc ,ham1 to bake a1 #beh to boil a1 #bef to boil a 7,french receipt71 #bec potted1 excellent1 #cjd ,hams1 ,bordyke receipt for1 #bef to garnish and ornament in various ways1 #beg to pickle1 #bed superior to ,westphalia 7,monsieur ,ude's receipt71 #bee genuine ,yorkshire receipt for1 #bec ,hamburgh pickle1 for hams1 beef1 and tongues1 #aig another pickle1 for 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,burdwan1 #fab common currie1 #bii curried fish1 #fae lobster cutlets1 #faa pilaw1 #fad corn1 to boil1 #cbi ,ingoldsby ,christmas pudding1 #daf ,ingredients1 which may all be used in making soups1 #a ,invalid's1 the1 new baked apple pudding1 #fjh ,irish stew1 #bdb ,isinglass to clarify1 #ded jelly1 ,constantia1 #dfg jelly1 orange1 #dfe jelly1 strawberry1 and other fruit1 #eje-ejh ,italian creams1 #dge jelly1 #dgj meringues1 #eea modes of dressing maccaroni1 #cia-cic pork cheese1 #bfj ,jack-bottle1 #agj spring1 #agj ,jam1 apricot1 or marmalade1 #eaf barberry1 #ebf cherry1 #ejb currant1 best black1 #eab currant1 black1 #eaa currant1 red1 superlative1 #eji currant1 white1 a beautiful preserve1 #eaj damson1 #eai gooseberry1 red1 #ejj gooseberry1 very fine1 #ejj green gooseberry1 #dii greengage1 #eae of mixed fruits1 #dhc of ,mogul plums1 #eae peach 7or nectarine71 #eah raspberry1 #ejf raspberry1 very good1 red or white1 #ejg raspberry1 very rich1 #ejf rhubarb1 #dih strawberry1 #ejd 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cutlets1 ,indian1 #faa cold dressed1 #hh fricasseed1 or au bchamel1 #hi hot1 #hi patties1 common1 #cei patties1 superlative1 #cei potted1 #ij salad1 #adb sausages1 #ia ,luncheon cake1 #eee ,macaroons1 almond1 #edd cocoa-nut 7very fine71 #ede orange-flower1 #edd ,macaroncini1 to boil and to choose1 #cij ,maccaroni1 ,genoa1 to boil1 #cia ,neapolitan1 to boil1 #cia ribbon 7or lazanges71 to boil1 #cia to choose1 and other ,italian pastes1 #cij to dress la ,reine1 #cic to dress in various ways1 #cib with gravy1 #cib ribbon1 #cia soup1 #ac sweet1 #dij ,mackerel1 to bake1 #fi baked 7,cinderella's receipt1 good71 #gj to boil1 #fi broiled whole1 #ga fillets of1 boiled1 #ga fillets of1 broiled or fried1 #ga fillets of1 stewed in wine 7excellent71 #gb fried 7,french receipt71 #gj stewed with wine1 #gb ,madeira cake1 #edh ,madeleine puddings1 to serve cold1 #dcb ,magnum bonum plums1 to dry or preserve1 #eae ,mai-,trank 7,german71 #fbj ,matre d',htel sauce1 cold1 #acc sauce1 ,french1 #aaf sauce1 maigre1 #aag sauce1 sharp 7,english receipt for71 #aaf ,majesty's1 her1 pastry1 #cff pudding1 #daj ,mandrang1 or mandram1 ,west ,indian receipt1 #cbc another receipt for1 #cbc ,mangoes1 lemon1 #ech peach1 #ecd ,marmalade1 apple1 for ,charlotte1 #dhg apricot1 #eaf barberry1 #ebg ,imperatrice plum1 #eba orange 7,portuguese receipt71 #ebg clear 7author's receipt71 #ebi orange1 genuine ,scotch receipt for1 #ebh peach1 #eah pine-apple1 superior 7a new receipt71 #eac quince1 #ebd quince and apple1 #ebe ,marrow bones1 baked1 #bjh to boil1 #bjg ,marrow1 clarified1 to keep1 #bjh vegetable1 to dress in various ways1 #cbg ,mashed1 artichokes1 ,jerusalem1 #cch carrots1 #ccf parsnips 7see turnips71 #ccc potatoes1 #cac potatoes1 crust of1 for pasty1 #cej turnips 7an excellent receipt for71 #ccc ,mayonnaise1 a delicious sauce to serve with cold meat1 c41 #ace1 #acf ,french1 #fag ,swiss1 #fag ,mayor's1 the ,lord1 soup1 #ag soup 7author's receipt for71 #ah ,meat1 jellies for1 pies1 #ajd pies1 crust for1 #cdg1 #cdh puddings1 #cii-dja rolls1 excellent1 #cfj ,mlange of fruit for rice-crust1 #egj or mixed preserve1 #eac ,melon1 to serve with meat1 #cbe sweet pickle of1 to serve with roast meat 7good71 #ecd ,melted butter1 #ajh1 #aji ,meringue of pears1 or other fruit1 #dhf of rhubarb1 or gooseberries1 #dhe ,meringues1 #eej ,italian1 #eea ,milk1 cocoa-nut flavoured1 for sweet dishes1 #def lemonade1 delicious1 #ehc remarks on1 #dej ,mild eschalot sauce1 #abg mustard1 #acj ragout of garlic1 or l'ail la ,bordelaise1 #abf ,minced collops1 #bja fowl1 #bgf veal1 #bcj veal1 with oysters1 #bca ,mincemeat 7author's receipt71 #cfh superlative1 #cfi fritters1 #chc ,mince pies 7entremets71 #cfi royal1 #cgj ,miniature round of beef1 #aii ,mint julep1 #ehb sauce1 #acb ,mock1 brawn1 #bfj turtle soup1 #bc turtle soup1 good old-fashioned1 #bf ,modern blanc-mange-mould1 #dgf cake-mould1 #edj chicken pie1 #cec jelly-mould1 #dgj potato pasty1 #cej varieties of calf's feet jelly1 #dfc ,monitor's tart1 or 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#bcd kidneys la ,franaise 7entre71 #bdc kidneys1 broiled1 #bdd kidneys1 ,oxford receipt for1 #bdd leg of1 to boil 7an excellent receipt71 #bcg leg of1 boned and forced1 #bcf leg of1 braised1 #bcf leg of1 roast1 #bce loin of1 roast1 #bch loin of1 stewed like venison1 #bci neck of1 roast1 #bci pie1 common1 #cee pie1 good1 #cee pudding1 #dja saddle of1 to roast1 #bce shoulder of1 broiled1 #bdj shoulder of1 to roast1 #bci shoulder of1 forced1 #bdj a good family stew of1 #bdb stock for soup1 #af ,nasturtiums1 to pickle1 #eci ,nesselrde cream1 #dga pudding1 #dia ,norfolk biffins1 dried1 #egb sauce1 #ii ,norman harricot1 #bbd ,normandy pippins1 #egb ,nougat1 #efd ,nouilles1 to make1 #e ufs au plat1 #dej pochs au jus1 #ddi ,old-fashioned boiled custard1 #dha ,oil1 to fry salmon and other fish in 7,jewish71 #fjg ,olive sauce1 #abh ,omlette aux fines herbes1 #chj souffle1 #cha ,omlets1 observations on1 #chj ,omlet1 common1 #chj ,king of ,oude's1 #fab ,onion sauce1 brown1 #abe sauce1 brown1 another receipt for1 #abe sauce1 white1 #abe ,onion and sage stuffing for ducks and geese1 ,no4 #i1 #afj rich white sauce of1 or ,soubise1 #abf ,onions1 to pickle1 #ecg stewed1 #cdb ,orange1 baskets for jelly1 #dff calf's feet jelly1 #dfd conserve for cheese-cakes1 or pudding1 #eja fritters1 #chd gravy1 #ajb isinglass jelly1 #dfe marmalade1 #ebg1 #ebi plums1 preserve of1 #ead salad1 #ega snow-balls1 #dbj wine1 #ehe ,orange-flower1 candy1 #efe1 #eff ,seville1 paste1 #efh filled with jelly in stripes1 #dff ,tangerine1 #ega ,oven1 ,american1 #agh management of1 #eie objection to iron ones1 #eie ,oxford receipt for ,bishop1 #ehj for mutton kidneys1 #bdd punch1 #ehj ,ox-cheek1 stuffed and baked1 #bjh ,ox-tail1 broiled 7entre71 #aie stewed1 #aie soup1 #db ,ox tongue1 to pickle1 #bjb potted1 #cje ,oyster forcemeat1 ,no4 #e1 #aei2 ,no4 #f1 #aei patties1 #cei sauce1 common1 #aad sauce1 good1 #aad sausages1 #hg soup1 white1 or la ,reine1 #cj ,oysters1 curried1 #cjb to feed1 #he to fry1 #hj scalloped1 la ,reine1 #hf to scallop1 #hf to stew1 #hf to stew1 another receipt1 #hg ,pain de pore frais1 or sausage-meat cake1 #bfa ,pain de veau1 or veal cake1 #bbb ,pain de veau 7,bordyke receipt71 #bbb ,palace-bonbons1 #efg ,palates1 beef1 to dress1 #aid1 #aie ,panada1 #afe ,pancakes1 #chb to crisp1 #acj fried1 #acj ,parsley green for colouring sauces1 #abi ,parsneps1 to boil1 #ccg fried1 #ccg ,partridge1 broiled 7breakfast dish71 #bij broiled 7,french receipt71 #bij ,french1 or red-legged1 to dress1 #bij potted1 #cje pudding1 #dja soup1 #ce ,partridges1 boiled1 #bhi with mushrooms1 #bhi to roast1 #bhh salmi1 or rich hash of1 #bib salmi of 7,french71 #bib ,paste1 almond1 #cfg brioche1 #cdi cherry 7,french71 #ejd currant1 #eaj gooseberry1 #eja very good light1 #cdf ,english puff1 #caf fine puff1 or feuilletage1 #cde quince1 #ebe ,pastry1 to colour almonds or sugar-grains for1 #edb to glaize or ice1 #cde icing for1 #cde sugar-icing for1 #edc her ,majesty's1 #cff general remarks on1 #cdd sandwiches1 #cgd ,pasty1 potato1 #cej varieties of1 #cea mould for1 #cea ,pte ,brise1 or ,french crust for hot or cold pies1 #cdg ,patties la ,pontife 7entres71 #cfj good chicken1 #cei common lobster1 #eei superlative lobster1 author's receipt1 #cei oyster 7entre71 #cei sweet boiled1 #dbb tartlets1 or small vols-au-vents1 to make1 #cfa ,peach1 fritters1 #chd jam1 or marmalade1 #eah mangoes1 #ecd ,peaches1 compote of1 #dei to dry1 an easy and excellent receipt1 #eah to pickle1 #ecd preserved in brandy 7,rotterdam receipt71 #ega stewed1 #dei ,sudoise of1 #dhh vol-au-vent of1 #ceh ,pears1 baked1 #egc stewed1 #egc meringue of1 #dhf ,pearled fruit1 #egj ,peas1 green1 to boil1 #cbj green1 with cream1 #cba green1 soup of1 #ci1 #dj green1 stewed1 la ,franaise1 #cbj pudding1 #dja soup1 common1 #da soup without meat1 #db soup1 rich1 #da ,perch1 to boil1 #hb to fry1 #hc ,pheasant1 boudin of1 #bhh cutlets1 #bge to roast1 #bhg salmi of1 #bib soup1 #cc1 #cd ,pickle1 for beef1 tongue1 and hams1 #aig ,hamburgh1 for pork1 c41 #aig to1 beet-root1 #ecg cherries1 #ecb eschalots1 #ecb gherkins1 #ecg gherkins 7,french receipt71 #ecc limes1 #ech lemons1 #ech lemon mangoes1 #ech melon1 sweet 7foreign receipt71 #ecd mushrooms in brine1 #ecf mushrooms 7an excellent receipt71 #ece nasturtiums1 #eci onions1 #ecg peaches1 and peach mangoes1 #ecd red cabbage1 #eci walnuts1 #ecf ,pickles1 where to be procured good1 #ecb general remarks on1 #eca ,pie1 beef-steak1 #ced a common chicken1 #cec a modern chicken1 #cec a good common ,english game1 #ceb mutton1 common1 #cee a good mutton1 #cee pigeon1 #ced ,pies1 excellent1 cream crust for1 #cdg ,french crust for1 #cdg suet-crust for1 #cdh meat jelly for1 #ib mince1 #cfi mince royal1 #cgj pudding 7entremets71 #cga raised1 #cef ,pigeons1 to boil1 #bhj to roast1 #bhj served with cresses1 for second course1 #bhj ,pig1 divisions of1 #bdg ,kentish mode of cutting up and curing1 #bed to bake a sucking1 #bej sucking1 en blanquette 7entre71 #bej to roast a sucking1 #bdi la ,tartare 7entre71 #bej ,pig's cheeks1 to pickle1 #bed feet and ears1 in brawn1 #bfj ,pike to bake1 #ha to bake 7superior receipt71 #ha to boil1 #hj ,pilaw1 a simple ,syrian1 #fac ,pine-apple marmalade1 superior1 #eac pudding-sauce1 #dje pudding-sauce1 very fine1 #dje ,pintail1 or ,sea ,pheasant1 to roast1 #bid ,pippins1 ,normandy1 to stew1 #egb ,piquante sauce1 #aah ,plaice1 to boil1 #ge to fry1 #ge ,plate1 hot1 for cooking1 #agd ,plum-puddings1 #daf1 #dag1 #dda1 c4 ,plums1 compote of1 #deh ,imperatrice1 to dry1 #eba ,imperatrice1 marmalade of1 #eba ,pole1 #afi ,poet's1 the1 receipt for salad1 #ace ,polenta l',italienne1 #cic ,pontac catsup1 #aej ,poor author's pudding1 #ddb ,pork1 to choose1 #bdg cutlets of1 to boil or fry1 #bea ,italian cheese of1 #bfj different joints of1 #bdg observations on1 #bdg to pickle1 #bed to roast1 #bea to roast a saddle of1 #bea sausages of1 #bfa1 #bfc ,portable lemonade1 #ehc ,potage la ,reine1 #bi ,pot-au-,feu1 or stock pot1 #h fowls1 c41 boiled in1 #i ,potato-balls 7,english71 or croquettes1 #cad boulettes 7good71 #cad bread1 #fjj fritters1 #chd flour1 or fecule de pommes de terre1 #aed pasty 7modern71 #cej puddings1 #dcf ribbons1 to serve with cheese1 #cac rissoles1 ,french1 #cae soup1 #ba ,potatoes1 la crme1 #cae la ,matre d',htel1 #cae to boil1 as in ,ireland1 #caj to boil 7,lancashire receipt71 #caa boulettes 7entremets71 #cad to boil 7,captain ,kater's receipt71 #cab crisped1 or potato-ribbons 7entremets71 #cac fried 7entremets71 #cac mashed and moulded in various ways #cac new1 in butter1 #cab new1 to boil1 #caa remarks on their properties and importance1 #cji to roast or bake1 #cab scooped 7entremets71 #cab ,potted anchovies1 #cjf chicken1 partridge1 or pheasant1 #cje ham1 #cjd hare1 #cjg meats 7various71 #cjc meat for the second course1 moulded1 #cjf mushrooms1 #ccj ox-tongue1 #cje shrimps1 or prawns1 #cjf ,poultry1 to bone1 #bfe to bone1 another mode1 #bfe to bone1 for fricassees1 c41 #bff to choose1 #bfd to lard1 #aha ,powder1 mushroom1 #aed of savoury herbs1 #aee ,prawns1 to boil1 #ic to dish cold1 #ic to pot 7see shrimps3#cjf7 to shell easily1 #ic ,prepared apple or quince juice1 #def calf's head 7the cook's receipt71 #baa ,preserved fruit1 general remarks on the use and value of1 #dic ,preserve1 a fine1 of red currants1 #eji delicious1 of white currants1 #eaj good common1 #eab an excellent1 of the green orange1 or ,stonewood plum1 #ead groseille1 a mixed1 #eac another good mlange1 or mixed1 #eac nursery1 #eab ,preserve1 to1 the colour and flavour of fruit-jams and jellies1 #dig ,preserving-pan1 #die ,preserves1 ,french furnace and stewpan convenient for making1 #did1 #die general rules and directions for1 #dif ,pruneaux de ,tours1 or compote of dried plums1 #egc ,prince ,albert's pudding1 #daa ,pudding 7baked71 la ,paysanne 7cheap and good71 #ddb almond1 #dbe almond1 ,jewish1 #fjh apple or custard1 #dcg apple 7the lady's or invalid's new71 #fjh ,bakewell1 #dbg barberry and rice1 #djf light batter1 #ddc good bread1 #dbi1 #dcj common bread and butter1 #dbi rich bread and butter1 #dbh cake and custard1 and various inexpensive1 #dcg curate's1 #ddb the good daughter's mincemeat1 #dbf ,dutch custard1 or raspberry1 #dch the elegant economist's1 #dbh ,gabrielle's1 or sweet casserole of rice1 #dch green gooseberry1 #dce good ground rice1 #dcg a common ground rice1 #dce ,mrs4 ,howitt's 7author's receipt71 #dbf an excellent lemon1 #dbf lemon-suet1 #dbg ,normandy1 #dda plum1 en moule1 or moulded1 #dbd poor author's1 #ddb 7baked7 potato1 #dcf a richer potato1 #dcf the printers'1 #dbd the publishers'1 #daj ,queen ,mab's1 #dgj a common raisin1 #dda a richer raisin1 #ddb raspberry1 or ,dutch custard1 #dch ratafia1 #dbg cheap rice1 #dcd a common rice1 #dcc a ,french rice1 or ,gteaux de riz1 #dcc rice1 meringu1 #dcd richer rice1 #dcd rice1 la ,vathek1 #ddj ,saxe-,gotha1 or tourte1 #dca a good semoulina1 or soujee1 #dcj a ,french semoulina 7or ,gteau de semoule71 #dcj soujee and semola1 #dci sponge cake1 #dcf vermicelli1 #dci welcome guest's own1 #dab common ,yorkshire1 #ddj good ,yorkshire1 #ddj young wife's 7author's receipt71 #dbe ,pudding 7boiled7 la ,scoones1 #daf apple1 cherry1 currant1 or any other fresh fruit1 #djh a common apple1 #dji the author's ,christmas1 #dag common batter1 #djf another batter1 #djf batter and fruit1 #djg beef-steak1 or ,john ,bull's1 #cii beef-steak1 epicurean receipt for1 #djj small beef-steak1 #djj a black-cap1 #djg ,ruth ,pinch's1 or beef-steak la ,dickens1 #dja bread1 #dah brown bread1 #dai cabinet1 #dac a very fine cabinet1 #dad common custard1 #daa the elegant economist's1 #dae ,german pudding and sauce1 #dab ,herodotus' 7a genuine classical receipt71 #dji ,ingoldsby ,christmas1 #daf ,her ,majesty's1 #daj mutton1 #dja partridge1 #dja peas1 #dja small light plum1 #daf ,prince ,albert's1 #daa the publishers'1 #daj vegetable plum1 #dag a very good raisin1 #dae a superior raisin #dae a cheap rice1 #dbj a good rice1 #dai rice and gooseberry1 #dbj rolled1 #dah savoury1 #cii ,snowdon1 #dad ,kentish suet1 #djg another suet1 #djh the welcome guest's own 7author's receipt71 #dab a ,kentish well1 #dag ,baden-,baden1 #dca ,puddings1 general directions for baked1 #dbc to mix batter for1 #cig general directions for boiled1 #cie butter crust for1 #cih cloths for1 to wash1 #cff suet-crust for1 #cih to clean currants for1 #cig ,madeleine1 to serve cold1 #dcb sauces for sweet1 #djb1 #djf to steam in common stewpan1 #cig ,sutherland1 or castle1 #dcb ,pudding-pies1 #cga a common receipt for1 #cga ,pudding sauces1 sweet1 #djb-djf ,puff-paste1 canellons of1 #dag ,english1 #cdf finest1 or feuilletage1 #cde very good light1 #cdf ,puffs1 ,german1 #dhd raspberry1 or other fruit1 #cge ,punch1 ,cambridge milk1 #eha ,oxford1 #ehj ,punch1 ,regent's1 or ,george ,,iv4's 7a genuine receipt71 #ehb sauce for sweet puddings1 #djb ,pure1 fine1 of onions1 or ,soubise sauce1 #abf of tomatas1 #cbh of turnips1 #abg of vegetable marrow1 #abg ,quenelles1 or ,french forcemeat1 #afc ,queen cakes1 #eef ,queen's custard1 #dha ,queen ,mab's pudding1 #dgj ,quince blamange1 #dgh blamange1 with almond cream1 #dgh custards1 #dhb jelly1 #ebd juice1 prepared1 #def marmalade1 #ebd and apple marmalade1 #ebe paste1 #ebe ,rabbits1 to boil1 #bhf ,rabbit1 to fry1 #bhg to roast1 #bhf soup1 la ,reine1 #ca soup1 brown1 #ca ,radishes1 turnip1 to boil1 #cah ,ragout1 mild1 of garlic1 #abf ,raisin puddings1 #dda1 #ddb wine1 which resembles foreign1 #ehc ,ramakins l',ude1 #cge ,raspberries1 to preserve for creams or ices1 without boiling1 #ejf ,raspberry jam1 #ejf jam1 red or white1 #ejf jelly1 for flavouring creams1 #ejg jelly1 another good1 #ejh vinegar1 very fine1 #egh ,red cabbage1 to stew1 #cdj ,regent's1 or ,george ,,iv4's punch 7genuine71 #ehb ,remoulade1 #acg ,rhubarb1 or spring fruit1 compote of1 #deg ,rice1 to boil for curries1 or mullagatawny soup1 #cf boiled1 to serve with stewed fruit1 c41 #dbb cake1 #edf casserole of1 savoury1 #cea casserole of1 sweet1 #dch croquettes of1 #che1 #chf savoury croquettes of1 #chf puddings1 #dai1 #dbj1 #dcc-dce soup1 #ad soup1 white1 #ae sweet1 la ,portugaise1 or aroc doc1 #dhi ,rice flour1 to make1 #aed soup1 #ae to thicken soups with1 #d ,risotto la ,milanaise1 #fae ,rissoles1 #chg very savoury1 ,english 7entre71 #chg ,roasting1 general directions for1 #afi slow method of1 #aga ,roast beef 7see ,chapter ,x47 chestnuts1 #egd game 7see ,chapter ,,xv47 lamb 7see ,chapter ,,xii47 mutton 7see ,chapter ,,xii47 potatoes1 #cab pork 7see ,chapter ,,xiii47 poultry 7see ,chapter ,,xiv47 veal 7see ,chapter ,,xi47 ,rolled shoulder of mutton1 #bdj ribs of beef1 #aih sirloin of beef1 #aih ,roll1 beef1 or canellon de buf1 #bja ,rolls1 breakfast or dinner1 #fjj ,geneva1 #fja excellent meat1 #cfj ,roux1 or ,french thickening brown 7for sauces71 #ajf white1 #ajf ,rusks1 sweet1 #eed ,rusks1 #fjb ,sago soup1 #ad ,salad1 to dress 7,english71 #adj forced eggs for garnishing1 #acg ,french1 #adj of mixed 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for lamb cutlets1 #abj bchamel1 #ajg bchamel maigre1 #ajh another common bchamel1 #ajh bread1 #aab bread1 with onion1 #aac caper1 #aba brown caper1 #aba caper for fish1 #aba celery1 #abh brown chestnut1 #abi white chestnut1 #abi ,chatney1 capsicum1 #add ,chatney1 sausage1 #fji ,chatney1 shrimp 7,mauritian receipt71 #add ,chatney1 tomato1 #fji ,chatney 7,bengal receipt71 #adf ,christopher ,north's own 7for many meats71 #aai crab1 #aad cream1 for fish1 #aae common cucumber1 #aba another common cucumber1 #abb white cucumber1 #abb currants1 #djd ,dutch1 #aaa cold1 ,dutch1 #acc common egg1 #aaj egg1 for calf's head1 #aaa very good egg1 #aaj ,english1 for salad1 cold meat1 c41 #acd epicurean1 #aea mild eschalot1 #abg ,espagnole1 #ajj ,espagnole1 with wine1 #ajj fricassee1 #aab fruit1 superior1 #djd mild garlic1 #abf ,genevese1 or sauce ,genevoise1 #aag ,german1 for fricassees1 #ajg ,german cherry1 #djf ,german custard pudding1 #djc gooseberry1 for mackerel1 #abj horseradish1 excellent1 to serve hot or cold1 with roast beef1 #aah-acc hot horseradish1 #aai the lady's1 for fish1 #aag common lobster1 #aac ,matre d',htel1 or steward's sauce1 #aaf cold ,matre d',htel1 #acc ,matre d',htel sauce maigre1 #aag sharp ,matre d',htel1 #aaf ,imperial mayonnaise1 #acf mayonnaise1 red or green1 #acf mayonnaise 7very fine71 to serve with cold meat1 fish1 or vegetables1 #ace mint1 common1 #acb mint 7superior71 for roast lamb1 #acc strained1 #acb brown mushroom1 #abc another mushroom1 #abc white mushroom1 #abb ,norfolk1 #aji olive1 #abh brown onion1 #abe another brown onion1 #abe white onion1 #abe ,oxford brawn1 #acg common oyster1 #aad good oyster1 #aad piquante1 #aah common pudding1 #djb delicious ,german pudding1 #djc pine-apple pudding1 #dje pine-apple syrup1 #dje punch1 for sweet puddings1 #djb sweet pudding1 #djd raspberry1 #djd remoulade1 #acg ,robert1 #aah shrimp1 #aae common sorrel1 #abj ,soubise1 #abf ,soubise 7,french receipt71 #abf ,spanish1 #ajj sweet1 for venison1 #ajj ,tartar1 #adc common tomata1 #abc a finer tomata1 #abd tourne1 or thickened pale gravy1 #aje excellent turnip1 #abg very common white1 #aaa ,english white1 #aaa wine sauces1 #djb ,french white1 or bchamel1 #ajg vegetable marrow1 fine1 #abg velout 7obs471 #ajg ,sauces1 to thicken1 #aje green1 for colouring1 #abi ,saucisses aux truffes1 or truffled sausages #bfc ,saunders1 #bgj ,sausage-meat1 cake of1 #bfa in chicken-pie1 #cec ,kentish1 #bfa to make1 #bfa1 #bfb pounded1 very good1 #bfb boned turkey1 filled with1 #bfh ,sausages1 boiled1 #bfb and chestnuts 7an excellent dish71 #bfb common1 #bfa excellent1 #bfb truffled1 #bfc ,saut pan1 for frying1 #agf ,savoury toasts1 #cij ,scientific roasting1 #aga ,scotch marmalade1 #ebh ,scottish shortbread1 excellent1 #eeg ,sea-kale to boil1 #caf stewed in gravy 7entremets71 #caf ,sea-pheasant1 or pintail1 to roast1 #bid ,sefton1 a1 or veal custard1 #cfb ,shad1 ,touraine fashion1 #gi ,shrimp sauce1 #aae ,shrimps1 to boil1 #ic boudinettes of1 #ib potted1 #cjf to shell quickly and easily1 #ic ,sippets la ,reine1 #e fried1 #d ,sirloin of beef1 to roast1 #ahd ,smelts to bake1 #gh to fry1 #gg ,snipes to roast1 #bic ,snow-balls1 orange1 #dbj apple1 #dba ,soles1 baked1 or au plat1 #ff baked1 a simple receipt1 #ff to boil1 #fd to choose1 #dh fillets of1 #fe to fry1 #fd stewed in cream1 #fg ,solimemne1 a1 or rich ,french breakfast cake1 #edi ,souffl1 ,louise ,franks' citron1 #cgh cheese1 #cgi ,souffl-pan1 #cgg ,souffls1 remarks on1 #cgg ,sounds1 cods'1 to boil1 #fc to fry in batter1 #fc ,soup1 apple1 #ba artichoke1 or ,palestine1 #ai good calf's head1 not expensive1 #bg ,buchanan carrot1 #df common carrot1 #bj a finer carrot1 #bj carrot1 maigre1 #de chestnut1 #ai cocoa-nut1 #ai cucumber1 #ch fish1 cheap1 #df des ,galles1 #bh clear pale gravy1 or consomm1 #aj another gravy1 #aj cheap clear gravy1 #aa superlative hare1 #cb a less expensive hare1 #cb in haste1 #dc la ,julienne1 #ch ,mademoiselle ,jenny ,lind's 7authentic receipt71 #af the ,lord ,mayor's1 #ag the ,lord ,mayor's 7author's receipt for71 #ah maccaroni1 #ac milk1 with vermicelli1 #dd mock turtle1 #be old-fashioned mock turtle1 #bf mullagatawny1 #ce vegetable mullagatawny1 #cg mutton stock for soups1 #af ox-tail1 #db white oyster1 or oyster-soup la ,reine1 #cj parsnep1 #bb another parsnep1 #bb partridge1 #ce common peas1 #da peas1 without meat1 #db rich peas1 #da cheap green peas1 #dj an excellent green peas1 #ci green peas1 without meat1 #ci pheasant1 #cc another pheasant1 #cd potage aux nouilles1 or taillerine soup1 #ad potage la ,reine1 #bi potato1 #ba rabbit1 la ,reine1 #ca brown rabbit1 #ca rice1 #ad cheap rice1 #dd rice flour1 #ae white rice1 #ae sago1 #ad sausage 7,swedish receipt71 #egg semola and soujee1 #ac semoulina1 #ab semoulina 7or soup la ,semoule71 #ab a cheap and good stew1 #dc spring1 #ch taillerine1 #ad tapioca1 #ad economical turkey1 #cc common turnip1 #ba a quickly made turnip1 #ba turtle1 mock1 #bc mock turtle1 old-fashioned1 #bf vermicelli 7or potage au vermicelle71 #ab stock for white1 #ae ,westerfield white1 #bb a richer white1 #bc ,soups1 directions to the cook for1 #b to fry bread to serve with1 #e ingredients used for making1 #a nouilles to serve in1 #e mutton stock for1 #af to thicken1 #d time required for boiling down1 #d vegetable vermicelli for1 #e ,spanish sauce1 or ,espagnole1 #ajj sauce1 with wine1 #ajj ,spiced beef1 #aii ,spinach1 l',anglaise1 or ,english fashion1 #cag common ,english modes of dressing1 #cag ,french receipt for1 #caf green1 for colouring sweet dishes1 c41 #dee dandelions dressed like1 #cah ,sprouts1 c41 to boil1 #ccb ,steaming1 general directions for1 #agb ,stewed beef-steak1 #ahi beef-steak1 in its own gravy1 #ahi beet-root1 #cdj cabbage1 #ccc calf's feet1 #bbh calf's liver1 #bbh carp1 #hb celery1 #cda cod-fish1 #fb cucumber1 #cbc eels1 #hd figs1 #dib fillet of mutton1 #bch fruits 7various71 #def-dei hare1 #bhf lamb cutlets1 #bdf leg of lamb with white sauce1 #bdc loin of lamb in butter1 #bdf lettuces1 #cai mackerel1 in wine1 #gb fillets of mackerel in wine 7excellent71 #gb mutton cutlets in their own gravy1 #bdj onions1 #cdb ox-tails1 #aie ox1 or beef tongue 7,bordyke receipt71 #bjc oysters1 #hf sea-kale in gravy1 #caf soles in cream1 #fg tomatas1 #cbg trout1 #hj turnips in butter1 #ccd turnips in gravy1 #cce knuckle of veal1 with rice or green peas1 #bba shoulder of veal1 #bai shoulder of venison1 #bhc ,stew1 a good ,english1 #aia a good family1 #bdb a ,german1 #aij an ,irish1 #bdb baked ,irish1 #bdc ,spring stew of veal1 #bbd a ,welsh1 #aia ,stew1 to1 shin of beef1 #aib a rump of beef1 #aid ,stewing1 general directions for1 #agc ,stewpan1 copper1 #aha ,stock1 clear pale1 #aa for white soup1 #ac mutton1 for soups1 #ad shin of beef for gravies1 #ig pot1 #afi ,store sauces1 #ade-aee ,strawberries1 to preserve1 for flavouring creams1 c41 #ejf ,strawberry vinegar1 #egg jam1 #ejd jelly1 #eje isinglass jelly1 #dfh tartlets1 #cge vinegar1 of delicious flavour1 #egg ,stufato 7a ,neapolitan receipt71 #fae ,stuffing for geese and ducks1 ,no4 #i1 #afj ,cook's stuffing for geese and ducks1 #afa ,sudoise1 or apple hedgehog1 #dhj ,sudoise of peaches1 #dhh ,suet crust1 for pies1 superior1 #cdh common1 #cdh ,sugar glazings1 and icings1 for fine pastry and cakes1 #edc barley1 #efd grains1 to colour1 for cakes1 c41 #edb to boil1 from candy to caramel1 #efc to clarify1 #efb ,swan's egg1 to boil1 #ddh forced1 #ddg en salade1 #ddh ,sweetbreads1 to dress1 #bbg la ,matre d',htel1 #bbg cutlets1 #bbg small entres of1 #bcb roasted1 #bae ,sweet1 patties la minute1 #chg ,syllabub1 a birthday1 #eha ,syllabubs1 superior whipped1 #dgf ,syrup1 fine currant1 or sirop de groseilles1 #egi ,tamarinds1 acid1 in curries1 #bif ,tapioca soup1 #ad ,tarragon vinegar1 #aea ,tart1 a good apple1 #cfc young green apple1 #cfd barberry1 #cfd ,german1 #cfb the monitor's1 #cgj ,tartlets1 of almond paste1 #cfg creamed1 #cge jelly1 or custards1 #cge to make1 #cfa lemon1 #cgb strawberry1 #cge ,tarts1 to ice1 #cde ,tench1 to fry1 #hc ,thickening for sauces1 ,french1 #ajf ,tipsy cake1 #dgd ,toasting1 directions for1 #ahc ,toffee1 ,everton1 #efg another way1 #efg ,tomata catsup1 #aea sauces1 #abc1 #abd ,tomatas1 forced1 #cbg forced 7,french receipt71 #cbh pure of1 #cbh roast1 #cbg en salade1 #cbg stewed1 #cbg ,tongue1 to boil1 #bjc to stew1 #bjc ,tongues1 to pickle1 #aig ,tourte1 la chtelaine1 #cfd the lady's1 #cfd meringue1 or with royal icing1 #cfc ,trifle1 brandy1 or tipsy cake1 #dgd an excellent1 #dgc ,swiss1 very good1 #dgc ,trout1 to stew 7a good common receipt71 #hj in wine1 #hj ,truffled butter1 #aci sausages1 #bfc ,truffles and their uses1 #cca l',italienne1 #ccb la serviette1 #bcb to prepare for use1 #ccb ,turbot1 to boil1 #ef au bchamel1 #eg cold1 with shrimp chatney1 #add la crme1 #eg ,turkey1 to boil1 #bfg boned and forced1 #bfh to bone1 #bfe la ,flamande1 #bgj to roast1 #bfg poult1 to roast1 #bgj ,turkeys' eggs1 to dress1 #ddg forced 7excellent entremets7 #ddg poached1 #ddi sauce of1 #aaj ,turnip-radishes1 to boil1 #cah soup1 economical1 #cc ,turnips1 to boil1 #ccc to mash1 #ccc stewed in butter1 #ccd in gravy1 #cce in white sauce #ccd ,vanilla in cream1 pudding1 c41 #daj ,veal1 blanquette of1 with mushrooms1 #bbi boiled breast of1 #bah roast breast of1 #bai breast of1 simply stewed1 #fah 7see note7 breast of1 stewed and glazed1 #fah cake1 ,bordyke1 #bbb cake1 small pain de veau1 or veal1 #bbb to choose1 #bji ,scotch collops of1 #bbf custard1 or ,sefton1 #cfb cutlets1 #bbe cutlets1 or collops1 la ,franaise1 #bbf cutlets1 l',indienne1 or ,indian fashion1 #bbe cutlets1 la mode de ,londres1 or ,london fashion1 #bbf divisions of1 #bji boiled fillet of1 #bag roast fillet of1 #baf fillet of1 au bechamel1 with oysters1 #baf fricandeau of1 #bbc fricasseed1 #bca goose 7,city of ,london receipt71 #bbj ,norman harrico of1 #bbd boiled knuckle of1 #bba knuckle of1 en ragout1 #bba knuckle of1 with rice or green peas1 #bba boiled loin of1 #bah roast loin of1 #bag stewed loin of1 #bah minced1 #bcj minced1 with oysters 7or mushrooms71 #bca neck of1 la crme1 #bbj neck of1 roast1 #bbj to bone a shoulder of1 #bai stewed shoulder of1 #bai spring stew of1 #bbd ,sydney1 #bca ,vegetable marrow1 to boil1 fry1 mash1 #cbg vermicelli1 #f ,vegetables1 to boil green1 #cji to clear insects from1 #cji remarks on1 #cjh ,venetian cake 7super excellent71 #edg fritters 7very good71 #chc ,venison1 to choose1 #bha collops and cutlets1 #bhd to hash1 #bhd to roast a haunch of1 #bhb in pie1 #ceb sauces for1 #bie to stew a loin of mutton like1 #bci to stew a shoulder of1 #bhc ,vermicelli pudding1 #dci soup1 #ab ,viennese pudding1 or ,salzburger ,nockerl1 #fbj ,vinegar1 cayenne1 #aec celery1 #aeb cucumber1 #aeb eschalot1 or garlic1 #aeb horseradish1 #aec green mint1 #aeb raspberry 7very fine71 #egh strawberry 7delicious71 #egg tarragon1 #aea ,vol-au-vent1 a1 #ceg la crme1 #ceh of fruit1 #ceh ,vols-au-vents1 la ,parisienne1 #cgd small1 to make1 #cfa ,walnut catsup1 #adi-aej ,walnuts1 to pickle1 #ecf salad of1 #ada ,water ,souchy 7,greenwich receipt71 #gh ,white bait 7,greenwich receipt71 #gh ,whitings baked1 la ,franaise1 #fh baked 7,cinderella's receipt71 #gj to boil1 #fh to fry1 #fg fillets of1 #fh ,wild ducks1 to roast1 and their season1 #bid salmi1 or hash of1 #bid ,wild fowl1 its season1 #bid ,wine1 elderberry 7good71 #ehd eschalot1 #aec ginger1 #ehd to mull 7an excellent ,french receipt71 #eha orange1 #ehe raisin1 which resembles foreign1 #ehc ,wine-vase1 antique1 #egg ,wire lining for frying-pan1 #agg ,woodcocks1 or snipes1 to roast1 #bic ,woodruff1 in ,mai ,trank1 #fbj ,yorkshire ploughman's salad1 #cae pudding1 common1 #dda pudding1 good1 #ddj ,regent potatoes1 their excellence1 #caa ,,tn3 ,footnote text is not allowed within the range of the ,index4 ,footnote #aid is referenced from the entry for 8fillets of whitings04 ,footnote #aie is referenced from the entry for 8,queen ,mab's summer pudding04 ,clicking on the footnote numbers below will take you to the index entries that reference these footnotes4 ,footnote #aid3 ,though not included in this list1 all sweet puddings are served as entremets1 except they replace the roasts of the second course4 ,footnote #aie3 ,fish is not usually served as an entre in a common ,english dinner2 it is1 however1 very admissible1 either in fillets1 or scallops1 in a currie1 or in a vol-au-vent4 ,various circumstances must determine much of the general arrangement of a dinner1 the same dishes answering at times for different parts of the service4 ,for example1 a fowl may be served as the roast for a small company1 and for a large one as an entre4 ,for a plain family dinner1 too1 many dishes may be served in a different order to that which is set down4 ,woodfall and ,kinder1 ,printers1 ,milford ,lane1 ,strand1 ,london1 ,w4,c4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,april #ahhe4 ------- ,,general ,,lists ,,of ,,works ,,published ,,by ,,messrs4 ,,longmans1 ,,green1 ,,co4 ,,paternoster ,,row1 ,,london4 ------- ,,history1 ,,politics1 ,,historical ,,memoirs1 c4 ,arnold's ,lectures on ,modern ,history4 #hvo4 #gs4 #f;d4 ,bagehot's ,literary ,studies1 edited by ,hutton4 #b vols4 #hvo4 #bhs4 ,beaconsfield's 7,lord7 ,speeches1 by ,kebbel4 #b vols4 #hvo4 #cbs4 ,bramston ,leroy's ,historic ,winchester4 ,crown #hvo4 #fs4 ,buckle's ,history of ,civilisation4 #c vols4 crown #hvo4 #bds4 ,chesney's ,waterloo ,lectures4 #hvo4 #ajs4 #f;d4 ,cox's 7,sir ,g4 ,w47 ,general ,history of ,greece4 ,crown #hvo4 ,maps1 #gs4 #f;d4 ---- ---- ,lives of ,greek ,statesmen4 ,fcp4 #hvo4 #bs4 #f;d4 ,dowell's ,a ,history of ,taxation and ,taxes in ,england4 #d vols4 #hvo4 #dhs4 ,doyle's ,english in ,america4 #hvo4 #ahs4 ,epochs of ,ancient ,history3-- ,beesly's ,gracchi1 ,marius1 and ,sulla1 #bs4 #f;d4 ,cape's ,age of the ,antonines1 #bs4 #f;d4 ---- ,early ,roman ,empire1 #bs4 #f;d4 ,cox's ,athenian ,empire1 #bs4 #f;d4 ---- ,greeks and ,persians1 #bs4 #f;d4 ,curteis's ,rise of the ,macedonian ,empire1 #bs4 #f;d4 ,ihne's ,rome to its ,capture by the ,gauls1 #bs4 #f;d4 ,merivale's ,roman ,triumvirates1 #bs4 #f;d4 ,sankey's ,spartan and ,theban ,supremacies1 #bs4 #f;d4 ,smith's ,rome and ,carthage1 the ,punic ,wars1 #bs4 #f;d4 ,epochs of ,english ,history1 complete in ,one ,volume4 ,fcp4 #hvo4 #es4 ,browning's ,modern ,england1 #ahbj-ahgd1 #i;d4 ,creighton's ,shilling ,history of ,england 7,introductory ,volume74 ,fcp4 #hvo4 #as4 ,creighton's 7,mrs47 ,england a ,continental ,power1 #ajff-abaf1 #i;d4 ,creighton's 7,rev4 ,m47 ,tudors and the ,reformation1 #adhe-afjc1 #i;d4 ,gardiner's 7,mrs47 ,struggle against ,absolute ,monarchy1 #afjc-afhh1 #i;d4 ,rowley's ,rise of the ,people1 #abae-adhe1 #i;d4 ,rowley's ,settlement of the ,constitution1 #afhi-aghd1 #i;d4 ,tancock's ,england during the ,american and ,european ,wars1 #agfe-ahbj1 #i;d4 ,york-,powell's ,early ,england to the ,conquest1 #as4 ,church's ,beginning of the ,middle ,ages1 #bs4 #f;d4 ,cox's ,crusades1 #bs4 #f;d4 ,creighton's ,age of ,elizabeth1 #bs4 #f;d4 ,gairdner's ,houses of ,lancaster and ,york1 #bs4 #f;d4 ,gardiner's ,puritan ,revolution1 #bs4 #f;d4 ---- ,thirty ,years' ,war1 #bs4 #f;d4 ---- 7,mrs47 ,french ,revolution1 #aghi-agie1 #bs4 #f;d4 ,hale's ,fall of the ,stuarts1 #bs4 #f;d4 ,johnson's ,normans in ,europe1 #bs4 #f;d4 ,longman's ,frederick the ,great and the ,seven ,years' ,war1 #bs4 #f;d4 ,ludlow's ,war of ,american ,independence1 #bs4 #f;d4 ,m',carthy's ,epoch of ,reform1 #ahcj-ahej1 #bs4 #f;d4 ,morris's ,age of ,queen ,anne1 #bs4 #f;d4 ,seebohm's ,protestant ,revolution1 #bs4 #f;d4 ,stubbs's ,early ,plantagenets1 #bs4 #f;d4 ,warburton's ,edward ,,iii41 #bs4 #f;d4 ,froude's ,english in ,ireland in the #ahth ,century4 #c vols4 crown #hvo4 #ahs4 ---- ,history of ,england4 ,popular ,edition4 #ab vols4 crown #hvo4 #cs4 #f;d4 each4 ,gardiner's ,history of ,england from the ,accession of ,james ,i4 to the ,outbreak of the ,civil ,war4 #aj vols4 crown #hvo4 #fjs4 ---- ,outline of ,english ,history1 ,b4,c4 #ee-;,a4,d4 #ahhj4 ,fcp4 #hvo4 #bs4 #f;d4 ,grant's 7,sir ,alex47 ,the ,story of the ,university of ,edinburgh4 #b vols4 #hvo4 #cfs4 ,greville's ,journal of the ,reigns of ,george ,,iv4 ,william ,,iv4 #c vols4 #hvo4 #cfs4 ,hickson's ,ireland in the ,seventeenth ,century4 #b vols4 #hvo4 #bhs4 ,lecky's ,history of ,england4 ,vols4 ,i4 ,,ii4 #agjj-agfj4 #hvo4 #cfs4 ,vols4 ,,iii4 ,,iv4 #agfj-aghd4 #hvo4 #cfs4 ---- ,history of ,european ,morals4 #b vols4 crown #hvo4 #afs4 ---- ---- ---- ,rationalism in ,europe4 #b vols4 crown #hvo4 #afs4 ,longman's ,lectures on the ,history of ,england4 #hvo4 #aes4 ---- ,life and ,times of ,edward ,,iii4 #b vols4 #hvo4 #bhs4 ,macaulay's ,complete ,works4 ,library ,edition4 #h vols4 #hvo4 #e4 #es4 ---- ---- ---- ,cabinet ,edition4 #af vols4 crown #hvo4 #d4 #afs4 ---- ,history of ,england3-- ,student's ,edition4 #b vols4 cr4 #hvo4 #abs4 ,people's ,edition4 #d vols4 cr4 #hvo4 #afs4 ,cabinet ,edition4 #h vols4 post #hvo4 #dhs4 ,library ,edition4 #e vols4 #hvo4 #d4 ,macaulay's ,critical and ,historical ,essays1 with ,lays of ,ancient ,rome4 ,in ,one ,volume4 ,authorised ,edition4 ,cr4 #hvo4 #bs4 #f;d4 or #cs4 #f;d4 gilt edges4 ,popular ,edition4 ,cr4 #hvo4 #bs4 #f;d4 ,macaulay's ,critical and ,historical ,essays4 ,student's ,edition4 #a vol4 cr4 #hvo4 #fs4 ,people's ,edition4 #b vols4 cr4 #hvo4 #hs4 ,cabinet ,edition4 #d vols4 post #hvo4 #bds4 ,library ,edition4 #c vols4 #hvo4 #cfs4 ,malmesbury's 7,earl of7 ,memoirs of an ,ex-,minister4 ,crown #hvo4 #gs4 #f;d4 ,maxwell's 7,sir ,w4 ,s47 ,don ,john of ,austria4 ,library ,edition1 with numerous ,illustrations4 #b vols4 royal #hvo4 #dbs4 ,may's ,constitutional ,history of ,england1 #agfj-ahgj4 #c vols4 crown #hvo4 #ahs4 ---- ,democracy in ,europe4 #b vols4 #hvo4 #cbs4 ,merivale's ,fall of the ,roman ,republic4 #abmo4 #gs4 #f;d4 ---- ,general ,history of ,rome1 ,b4,c4 #gec-;,a4,d4 #dgf4 ,crown #hvo4 #gs4 #f;d4 ---- ,history of the ,romans under the ,empire4 #h vols4 post #hvo4 #dhs4 ,rawlinson's ,seventh ,great ,oriental ,monarchy--,the ,sassanians4 #hvo4 #bhs4 ,seebohm's ,oxford ,reformers--,colet1 ,erasmus1 ,more4 #hvo4 #ads4 ,short's ,history of the ,church of ,england4 ,crown #hvo4 #gs4 #f;d4 ,smith's ,carthage and the ,carthaginians4 ,crown #hvo4 #ajs4 #f;d4 ,taylor's ,manual of the ,history of ,india4 ,crown #hvo4 #gs4 #f;d4 ,trevelyan's ,early ,history of ,charles ,james ,fox4 ,crown #hvo4 #fs4 ,walpole's ,history of ,england1 #ahae-ahda4 #c vols4 #hvo4 #b4 #ads4 ,wylie's ,history of ,england under ,henry ,,iv4 ,vol4 ,i4 crown #hvo4 #ajs4 #f;d4 ,,biographical ,,works4 ,bagehot's ,biographical ,studies4 #a vol4 #hvo4 #abs4 ,bain's ,biography of ,james ,mill4 ,crown #hvo4 ,portrait1 #es4 ---- ,criticism and ,recollections of ,j4 ,s4 ,mill4 ,crown #hvo4 #bs4 #f;d4 ,bray's 7,charles7 ,autobiography4 ,crown #hvo4 #cs4 #f;d4 ,carlyle's ,reminiscences1 edited by ,j4 ,a4 ,froude4 #b vols4 ,crown #hvo4 #ahs4 ---- 7,mrs47 ,letters and ,memorials4 #c vols4 #hvo4 #cfs4 ,cates's ,dictionary of ,general ,biography4 ,medium #hvo4 #bhs4 ,froude's ,life of ,thomas ,carlyle4 ,vols4 #a #b1 #agie-ahce4 #hvo4 #cbs4 ---- ---- ---- ,vols4 #c #d1 #ahcd-ahha4 #hvo4 #cbs4 ,gleig's ,life of the ,duke of ,wellington4 ,crown #hvo4 #fs4 ,grimston's 7,hon4 ,r47 ,life1 by ,f4 ,gale4 ,crown #hvo4 #ajs4 #f;d4 ,halliwell-,phillipps's ,outlines of ,shakespeare's ,life4 #hvo4 #gs4 #f;d4 ,lecky's ,leaders of ,public ,opinion in ,ireland4 ,crown #hvo4 #gs4 #f;d4 ,life 7,the7 and ,letters of ,lord ,macaulay4 ,by his ,nephew1 ,g4 ,otto ,trevelyan1 ,m4,p4 ,popular ,edition1 #a vol4 ,crown #hvo4 #fs4 ,cabinet ,edition1 #b vols4 post #hvo4 #abs4 #hvo4 #abs4 ,library ,edition1 #b vols4 #hvo4 #cfs4 ,marshman's ,memoirs of ,havelock4 ,crown #hvo4 #cs4 #f;d4 ,mendelssohn's ,letters4 ,translated by ,lady ,wallace4 #b vols4 cr4 #hvo4 #es4 each4 ,mill's 7,john ,stuart7 ,autobiography4 #hvo4 #gs4 #f;d4 ,mozley's ,reminiscences of ,oriel ,college4 #b vols4 ,crown #hvo4 #ahs4 ---- ---- ---- ,towns1 ,villages1 and ,schools4 #b vols4 cr4 #hvo4 #ahs4 ,mller's 7,max7 ,biographical ,essays4 ,crown #hvo4 #gs4 #f;d4 ,newman's ,apologia pro ,vit ,su4 ,crown #hvo4 #fs4 ,pasolini's 7,count7 ,memoir1 by his ,son4 #hvo4 #afs4 ,pasteur 7,louis7 ,his ,life and ,labours4 ,crown #hvo4 #gs4 #f;d4 ,skobeleff and the ,slavonic ,cause4 ,by ,o4 ,k4 #hvo4 ,portrait1 #ads4 ,southey's ,correspondence with ,caroline ,bowles4 #hvo4 #ads4 ,spedding's ,letters and ,life of ,francis ,bacon4 #g vols4 #hvo4 #d4 #ds4 ,stephen's ,essays in ,ecclesiastical ,biography4 ,crown #hvo4 #gs4 #f;d4 ,taylor's 7,sir ,henry7 ,autobiography4 #b vols4 #hvo4 #cbs4 ,telfer's ,the ,strange ,career of the ,chevalier ,d',eon de ,beaumont4 #hvo4 #abs4 ,,mental ,,and ,,political ,,philosophy4 ,amos's ,view of the ,science of ,jurisprudence4 #hvo4 #ahs4 ---- ,fifty ,years of the ,english ,constitution1 #ahcj-ahhj4 ,crown #hvo4 #ajs4 #f;d4 ---- ,primer of the ,english ,constitution4 ,crown #hvo4 #fs4 ,bacon's ,essays1 with ,annotations by ,whately4 #hvo4 #ajs4 #f;d4 ---- ,works1 edited by ,spedding4 #g vols4 #hvo4 #gcs4 #f;d4 ,bagehot's ,economic ,studies1 edited by ,hutton4 #hvo4 #ajs4 #f;d4 ,bain's ,logic1 ,deductive and ,inductive4 ,crown #hvo4 #ajs4 #f;d4 ,,part ,i4 ,deduction1 #ds4 ,,part ,,ii4 ,induction1 #fs4 ,bolland ,lang's ,aristotle's ,politics4 ,crown #hvo4 #gs4 #f;d4 ,grant's ,ethics of ,aristotle2 ,greek ,text1 ,english ,notes4 #b vols4 #hvo4 #cbs4 ,leslie's ,essays in ,political and ,moral ,philosophy4 #hvo4 #ajs4 #f;d4 ,lewes's ,history of ,philosophy4 #b vols4 #hvo4 #cbs4 ,lewis on ,authority in ,matters of ,opinion4 #hvo4 #ads4 ,macaulay's ,speeches corrected by ,himself4 ,crown #hvo4 #cs4 #f;d4 ,macleod's ,economical ,philosophy4 ,vol4 ,i4 #hvo4 #aes4 ,vol4 ,,ii4 ,part ,i4 #abs4 ,mill's 7,james7 ,analysis of the ,phenomena of the ,human ,mind4 #b vols4 #hvo4 #bhs4 ,mill 7,john ,stuart7 on ,representative ,government4 ,crown #hvo4 #bs4 ---- ---- on ,liberty4 ,crown #hvo4 #as4 #d;d4 ---- ---- ,dissertations and ,discussions4 #d vols4 #hvo4 #dfs4 #f;d4 ---- ---- ,essays on ,unsettled ,questions of ,political ,economy4 #hvo4 #fs4 #f;d4 ---- ---- ,examination of ,hamilton's ,philosophy4 #hvo4 #afs4 ---- ---- ,logic4 #b vols4 #hvo4 #bes4 ,people's ,edition1 #a vol4 cr4 #hvo4 #es4 ---- ---- ,principles of ,political ,economy4 #b vols4 #hvo4 #cjs4 #a vol4 crown #hvo4 #es4 ---- ---- ,subjection of ,women4 ,crown #hvo4 #fs4 ---- ---- ,utilitarianism4 #hvo4 #es4 ,miller's 7,mrs4 ,fenwick7 ,readings in ,social ,economy4 ,crown #hvo4 #bs4 ,sandars's ,institutes of ,justinian1 with ,english ,notes4 #hvo4 #ahs4 ,seebohm's ,english ,village ,community4 #hvo4 #afs4 ,sully's ,outlines of ,psychology4 #hvo4 #abs4 #f;d4 ,swinburne's ,picture ,logic4 ,post #hvo4 #es4 ,thompson's ,a ,system of ,psychology4 #b vols4 #hvo4 #cfs4 ,thomson's ,outline of ,necessary ,laws of ,thought4 ,crown #hvo4 #fs4 ,tocqueville's ,democracy in ,america1 translated by ,reeve4 #b vols4 crown #hvo4 #afs4 ,twiss's ,law of ,nations in ,time of ,war4 #hvo4 #bas4 ---- ---- in ,time of ,peace4 #hvo4 #aes4 ,whately's ,elements of ,logic4 #hvo4 #ajs4 #f;d4 ,crown #hvo4 #ds4 #f;d4 ---- ---- ---- ,rhetoric4 #hvo4 #ajs4 #f;d4 ,crown #hvo4 #ds4 #f;d4 ---- ,english ,synonymes4 ,fcp4 #hvo4 #cs4 ,williams's ,nicomachean ,ethics of ,aristotle translated4 ,crown #hvo4 #gs4 #f;d4 ,zeller's ,history of ,eclecticism in ,greek ,philosophy4 ,crown #hvo4 #ajs4 #f;d4 ---- ,plato and the ,older ,academy4 ,crown #hvo4 #ahs4 ---- ,pre-,socratic ,schools4 #b vols4 crown #hvo4 #cjs4 ---- ,socrates and the ,socratic ,schools4 ,crown #hvo4 #ajs4 #f;d4 ---- ,stoics1 ,epicureans1 and ,sceptics4 ,crown #hvo4 #aes4 ,,miscellaneous ,,and ,,critical ,,works4 ,arnold's 7,dr4 ,thomas7 ,miscellaneous ,works4 #hvo4 #gs4 #f;d4 ---- 7,t47 ,manual of ,english ,literature4 ,crown #hvo4 #gs4 #f;d4 ,bain's ,emotions and the ,will4 #hvo41 #aes4 ---- ,mental and ,moral ,science4 ,crown #hvo4 #ajs4 #f;d4 ---- ,senses and the ,intellect4 #hvo4 #aes4 ---- ,practical ,essays4 ,crown #hvo4 #ds4 #f;d4 ,beaconsfield 7,lord71 ,the ,wit and ,wisdom of4 ,crown #hvo4 #cs4 #f;d4 ---- 7,the7 ,birthday ,book4 #ahmo4 #bs4 #f;d4 cloth2 #ds4 #f;d4 bound4 ,becker's ,charicles and ,gallus1 by ,metcalfe4 ,post #hvo4 #gs4 #f;d4 each4 ,blackley's ,german and ,english ,dictionary4 ,post #hvo4 #cs4 #f;d4 ,contanseau's ,practical ,french and ,english ,dictionary4 ,post #hvo4 #cs4 #f;d4 ---- ,pocket ,french and ,english ,dictionary4 ,square #ahmo4 #as4 #f;d4 ,farrar's ,language and ,languages4 ,crown #hvo4 #fs4 ,french's ,nineteen ,centuries of ,drink in ,england4 ,crown #hvo4 #ajs4 #f;d4 ,froude's ,short ,studies on ,great ,subjects4 #d vols4 crown #hvo4 #bds4 ,grant's 7,sir ,a47 ,story of the ,university of ,edinburgh4 #b vols4 #hvo4 #cfs4 ,hamlet1 a ,study with the ,text of the ,folio of #afbc1 by ,george ,macdonald1 #hvo4 #abs4 ,hobart's ,medical ,language of ,st4 ,luke4 #hvo4 #afs4 ,hume's ,essays1 edited by ,green ,grose4 #b vols4 #hvo4 #bhs4 ---- ,treatise on ,human ,nature1 edited by ,green ,grose4 #b vols4 #hvo4 #bhs4 ,lang's ,custom and ,myth3 ,studies of ,early ,usage and ,belief4 ,crown #hvo4 #gs4 #f;d4 ,latham's ,handbook of the ,english ,language4 ,crown #hvo4 #fs4 ,liddell ,scott's ,greek-,english ,lexicon4 #dto4 #cfs4 ---- ,abridged ,greek-,english ,lexicon4 ,square #abmo4 #gs4 #f;d4 ,longman's ,pocket ,german and ,english ,dictionary4 #ahmo4 #bs4 #f;d4 ,macaulay's ,miscellaneous ,writings4 #b vols4 #hvo4 #bas4 #a vol4 crown #hvo4 #ds4 #f;d4 ---- ,miscellaneous ,writings and ,speeches4 ,crown #hvo4 #fs4 ---- ,miscellaneous ,writings1 ,speeches1 ,lays of ,ancient ,rome1 c4 ,cabinet ,edition4 #d vols4 crown #hvo4 #bds4 ,mahaffy's ,classical ,greek ,literature4 ,crown #hvo4 ,vol4 ,i4 the ,poets1 #gs4 #f;d4 ,vol4 ,,ii4 the ,prose ,writers1 #gs4 #f;d4 ,millard's ,grammar of ,elocution4 ,fcp4 #hvo4 #cs4 #f;d4 ,mller's 7,max7 ,lectures on the ,science of ,language4 #b vols4 crown #hvo4 #afs4 ---- ---- ,lectures on ,india4 #hvo4 #abs4 #f;d4 ,reader's ,voices from ,flowerland1 a ,birthday ,book1 #bs4 #f;d4 cloth1 #cs4 #f;d4 roan4 ,rich's ,dictionary of ,roman and ,greek ,antiquities4 ,crown #hvo4 #gs4 #f;d4 ,rogers's ,eclipse of ,faith4 ,fcp4 #hvo4 #es4 ---- ,defence of the ,eclipse of ,faith4 ,fcp4 #hvo4 #cs4 #f;d4 ,roget's ,thesaurus of ,english ,words and ,phrases4 ,crown #hvo4 #ajs4 #f;d4 ,selections from the ,writings of ,lord ,macaulay4 ,crown #hvo4 #fs4 ,simcox's ,latin ,literature4 #b vols4 #hvo4 #cbs4 ,tyndall's ,faraday as a ,discoverer4 ,crown #hvo4 #cs4 #f;d4 ---- ,floating ,matter of the ,air4 ,crown #hvo4 #gs4 #f;d4 ---- ,fragments of ,science4 #b vols4 post #hvo4 #afs4 ---- ,heat a ,mode of ,motion4 ,crown #hvo4 #abs4 ---- ,lectures on ,light delivered in ,america4 ,crown #hvo4 #gs4 #f;d4 ---- ,lessons in ,electricity4 ,crown #hvo4 #bs4 #f;d4 ---- ,notes on ,electrical ,phenomena4 ,crown #hvo4 #as4 sewed1 #as4 #f;d4 cloth4 ---- ,notes of ,lectures on ,light4 ,crown #hvo4 #as4 sewed1 #as4 #f;d4 cloth4 -- -- ,sound1 with ,frontispiece and #bjc ,woodcuts4 ,crown #hvo4 #ajs4 #f;d4 ,von ,cotta on ,rocks1 by ,lawrence4 ,post #hvo4 #ads4 ,white ,riddle's ,large ,latin-,english ,dictionary4 #dto4 #bas4 ,white's ,concise ,latin-,english ,dictionary4 ,royal #hvo4 #abs4 ---- ,junior ,student's ,lat4-,eng4 and ,eng4-,lat4 ,dictionary4 ,sq4 #abmo4 #es4 ,separately 3 ,the ,english-,latin ,dictionary1 #cs4 -------------------- 3 ,the ,latin-,english ,dictionary1 #cs4 ,wit and ,wisdom of the ,rev4 ,sydney ,smith4 ,crown #hvo4 #cs4 #f;d4 ,witt's ,myths of ,hellas1 translated by ,f4 ,m4 ,younghusband4 ,crown #hvo4 #cs4 #f;d4 ---- ,the ,trojan ,war ---- ---- ,fcp4 #hvo4 #bs4 ,wood's ,bible ,animals4 ,with #aab ,vignettes4 #hvo4 #ajs4 #f;d4 ---- ,common ,british ,insects4 ,crown #hvo4 #cs4 #f;d4 ---- ,homes ,without ,hands1 #hvo4 #ajs4 #f;d4 ,insects ,abroad1 #hvo4 #ajs4 #f;d4 ---- ,insects at ,home4 ,with #gjj ,illustrations4 #hvo4 #ajs4 #f;d4 ---- ,out of ,doors4 ,crown #hvo4 #es4 ---- ,petland ,revisited4 ,crown #hvo4 #gs4 #f;d4 ---- ,strange ,dwellings4 ,crown #hvo4 #es4 ,popular ,edition1 #dto4 #f;d4 ,yonge's ,english-,greek ,lexicon4 ,square #abmo4 #hs4 #f;d4 #dto4 #bas4 ,the ,essays and ,contributions of ,a4 ,k4 ,h4 ,b4 ,crown #hvo4 ,autumn ,holidays of a ,country ,parson4 #cs4 #f;d4 ,changed ,aspects of ,unchanged ,truths4 #cs4 #f;d4 ,common-,place ,philosopher in ,town and ,country4 #cs4 #f;d4 ,counsel and ,comfort spoken from a ,city ,pulpit4 #cs4 #f;d4 ,critical ,essays of a ,country ,parson4 #cs4 #f;d4 ,graver ,thoughts of a ,country ,parson4 ,three ,series4 #cs4 #f;d4 each4 ,landscapes1 ,churches1 and ,moralities4 #cs4 #f;d4 ,leisure ,hours in ,town4 #cs4 #f;d4 ,lessons of ,middle ,age4 #cs4 #f;d4 ,our ,little ,life4 ,essays ,consolatory and ,domestic4 ,two ,series4 #cs4 #f;d4 each4 ,present-day ,thoughts4 #cs4 #f;d4 ,recreations of a ,country ,parson4 ,three ,series4 #cs4 #f;d4 each4 ,seaside ,musings on ,sundays and ,week-,days4 #cs4 #f;d4 ,sunday ,afternoons in the ,parish ,church of a ,university ,city4 #cs4 #f;d4 ,,astronomy1 ,,meteorology1 ,,geography1 c4 ,freeman's ,historical ,geography of ,europe4 #b vols4 #hvo4 #cas4 #f;d4 ,herschel's ,outlines of ,astronomy4 ,square crown #hvo4 #abs4 ,keith ,johnston's ,dictionary of ,geography1 or ,general ,gazetteer4 #hvo4 #dbs4 ,merrifield's ,treatise on ,navigation4 ,crown #hvo4 #es4 ,nelson's ,work on the ,moon4 ,medium #hvo4 #cas4 #f;d4 ,proctor's ,essays on ,astronomy4 #hvo4 #abs4 ,proctor's ,moon4 ,crown #hvo4 #ajs4 #f;d4 ---- ,larger ,star ,atlas4 ,folio1 #aes4 or ,maps only1 #abs4 #f;d4 ---- ,myths and ,marvels of ,astronomy4 ,crown #hvo4 #fs4 ---- ,new ,star ,atlas4 ,crown #hvo4 #es4 ,orbs ,around ,us4 ,crown #hvo4 #gs4 #f;d4 ---- ,other ,worlds than ,ours4 ,crown #hvo4 #ajs4 #f;d4 ---- ,sun4 ,crown #hvo4 #ads4 ,universe of ,stars4 #hvo4 #ajs4 #f;d4 ---- ,transits of ,venus1 #hvo4 #hs4 #f;d4 ,studies of ,venus-,transits1 #hvo4 #es4 ,smith's ,air and ,rain4 #hvo4 #bds4 ,the ,public ,schools ,atlas of ,ancient ,geography4 ,imperial #hvo4 #gs4 #f;d4 ---- ---- ---- ,modern ,geography4 ,imperial #hvo4 #es4 ---- ---- ,historical ,atlas4 #dto4 #es4 ,webb's ,celestial ,objects for ,common ,telescopes4 ,crown #hvo4 #is4 ---- ,the ,sun and his ,phenomena4 ,fcp4 #hvo4 #as4 ,,natural ,,history ,,popular ,,science4 ,allen's ,flowers and their ,pedigrees4 ,crown #hvo4 ,woodcuts1 #gs4 #f;d4 ,arnott's ,elements of ,physics or ,natural ,philosophy4 ,crown #hvo4 #abs4 #f;d4 ,brande's ,dictionary of ,science1 ,literature1 and ,art4 #c vols4 medium #hvo4 #fcs4 ,decaisne and ,le ,maout's ,general ,system of ,botany4 ,imperial #hvo4 #cas4 #f;d4 ,dixon's ,rural ,bird ,life4 ,crown #hvo4 ,illustrations1 #es4 ,edmonds's ,elementary ,botany4 ,fcp4 #hvo4 #bs4 ,evans's ,bronze ,implements of ,great ,britain4 #hvo4 #bes4 ,ganot's ,elementary ,treatise on ,physics1 by ,atkinson4 ,large crown #hvo4 #aes4 ---- ,natural ,philosophy1 by ,atkinson4 ,crown #hvo4 #gs4 #f;d4 ,goodeve's ,elements of ,mechanism4 ,crown #hvo4 #fs4 ---- ,principles of ,mechanics4 ,crown #hvo4 #fs4 ,grove's ,correlation of ,physical ,forces4 #hvo4 #aes4 ,hartwig's ,aerial ,world1 #hvo4 #ajs4 #f;d4 ---- ,polar ,world1 #hvo4 #ajs4 #f;d4 ---- ,sea and its ,living ,wonders4 #hvo4 #ajs4 #f;d4 ---- ,subterranean ,world1 #hvo4 #ajs4 #f;d4 ---- ,tropical ,world1 #hvo4 #ajs4 #f;d4 ,haughton's ,six ,lectures on ,physical ,geography4 #hvo4 #aes4 ,heer's ,primval ,world of ,switzerland4 #b vols4 #hvo4 #abs4 ,helmholtz's ,lectures on ,scientific ,subjects4 #b vols4 crown #hvo4 #gs4 #f;d4 each4 ,hullah's ,lectures on the ,history of ,modern ,music4 #hvo4 #hs4 #f;d4 ---- ,transition ,period of ,musical ,history4 #hvo4 #ajs4 #f;d4 ,jones's ,the ,health of the ,senses4 ,crown #hvo4 #cs4 #f;d4 ,keller's ,lake ,dwellings of ,switzerland1 by ,lee4 #b vols4 royal #hvo4 #dbs4 ,lloyd's ,treatise on ,magnetism4 #hvo4 #ajs4 #f;d4 ,loudon's ,encyclopedia of ,plants4 #hvo4 #dbs4 ,lubbock on the ,origin of ,civilisation and ,primitive ,condition of ,man4 #hvo4 #ahs4 ,macalister's ,zoology and ,morphology of ,vertebrate ,animals4 #hvo4 #ajs4 #f;d4 ,owen's ,comparative ,anatomy and ,physiology of the ,vertebrate ,animals4 #c vols4 #hvo4 #gcs4 #f;d4 ,proctor's ,light ,science for ,leisure ,hours4 #c ,series4 ,crown #hvo4 #gs4 #f;d4 each4 ,rivers's ,orchard ,house4 ,sixteenth ,edition4 ,crown #hvo4 #es4 ---- ,rose ,amateur's ,guide4 ,fcp4 #hvo4 #ds4 #f;d4 ,stanley's ,familiar ,history of ,british ,birds4 ,crown #hvo4 #fs4 ,swinton's ,electric ,lighting3 ,its ,principles and ,practice4 ,crown #hvo4 #es4 ,,the #8,,knowledge' ,,library4 ,edited by ,,richard ,a4 ,,proctor4 ,how to ,play ,whist4 ,by ,five of ,clubs 7,r4 ,a4 ,proctor74 ,crown #hvo4 #es4 ,the ,borderland of ,science4 ,by ,r4 ,a4 ,proctor4 ,crown #hvo4 #fs4 ,science ,byways4 ,by ,r4 ,a4 ,proctor4 ,crown #hvo4 #fs4 ,the ,poetry of ,astronomy4 ,by ,r4 ,a4 ,proctor4 ,crown #hvo4 #fs4 ,nature ,studies4 ,reprinted from ,knowledge4 ,by ,grant ,allen1 ,andrew ,wilson1 c4 ,crown #hvo4 #fs4 ,leisure ,readings4 ,reprinted from ,knowledge4 ,by ,edward ,clodd1 ,andrew ,wilson1 c4 ,crown #hvo4 #fs4 ,the ,stars in their ,seasons4 ,by ,r4 ,a4 ,proctor4 ,imperial #hvo4 #es4 ,,chemistry ,,and ,,physiology4 ,buckton's ,health in the ,house1 ,lectures on ,elementary ,physiology4 ,cr4 #hvo4 #bs4 ,jago's ,inorganic ,chemistry1 ,theoretical and ,practical4 ,fcp4 #hvo4 #bs4 ,kolbe's ,short ,text-,book of ,inorganic ,chemistry4 ,crown #hvo4 #gs4 #f;d4 ,miller's ,elements of ,chemistry1 ,theoretical and ,practical4 #c vols4 #hvo4 ,,part ,i4 ,chemical ,physics1 #afs4 ,,part ,,ii4 ,inorganic ,chemistry1 #bds4 ,,part ,,iii4 ,organic ,chemistry1 price #cas4 #f;d4 ,reynolds's ,experimental ,chemistry4 ,fcp4 #hvo4 ,,part ,i4 #as4 #f;d4 ,,part ,,ii4 #bs4 #f;d4 ,,part ,,iii4 #cs4 #f;d4 ,tilden's ,practical ,chemistry4 ,fcp4 #hvo4 #as4 #f;d4 ,watts's ,dictionary of ,chemistry4 #i vols4 medium #hvo4 #ae4 #bs4 #f;d4 ,,the ,,fine ,,arts ,,and ,,illustrated ,,editions4 ,dresser's ,arts and ,art ,manufactures of ,japan4 ,square crown #hvo4 #cas4 #f;d4 ,eastlake's 7,lady7 ,five ,great ,painters4 #b vols4 crown #hvo4 #afs4 ---- ,notes on the ,brera ,gallery1 ,milan4 ,crown #hvo4 #es4 ---- ,notes on the ,louvre ,gallery1 ,paris4 ,crown #hvo4 #gs4 #f;d4 ---- ,notes on the ,old ,pinacothek1 ,munich4 ,crown #hvo4 #gs4 #f;d4 ,jameson's ,sacred and ,legendary ,art4 #f vols4 square #hvo4 ,legends of the ,madonna4 #a vol4 #bas4 ---- ---- ---- ,monastic ,orders4 #a vol4 #bas4 ---- ---- ---- ,saints and ,martyrs4 #b vols4 #cas4 #f;d4 ---- ---- ---- ,saviour4 ,completed by ,lady ,eastlake4 #b vols4 #dbs4 ,macaulay's ,lays of ,ancient ,rome1 illustrated by ,scharf4 ,fcp4 #dto4 #ajs4 #f;d4 ,the same1 with ,ivry and the ,armada1 illustrated by ,weguelin4 ,crown #hvo4 #cs4 #f;d4 ,macfarren's ,lectures on ,harmony4 #hvo4 #abs4 ,moore's ,irish ,melodies4 ,with #afa ,plates by ,d4 ,maclise1 ,r4,a4 ,super-royal #hvo4 #bas4 ---- ,lalla ,rookh1 illustrated by ,tenniel4 ,square crown #hvo4 #ajs4 #f;d4 ,new ,testament 7,the7 illustrated with ,woodcuts after ,paintings by the ,early ,masters4 #dto4 #bas4 cloth1 or #dbs4 morocco4 ,perry on ,greek and ,roman ,sculpture4 ,with #bhj ,illustrations engraved on ,wood4 ,square crown #hvo4 #cas4 #f;d4 ,,the ,,useful ,,arts1 ,,manufactures1 c4 ,bourne's ,catechism of the ,steam ,engine4 ,crown #hvo4 #gs4 #f;d4 ---- ,examples of ,steam1 ,air1 and ,gas ,engines4 #dto4 #gjs4 ---- ,handbook of the ,steam ,engine4 ,fcp4 #hvo4 #is4 ---- ,recent ,improvements in the ,steam ,engine4 ,fcp4 #hvo4 #fs4 ---- ,treatise on the ,steam ,engine4 #dto4 #dbs4 ,cresy's ,encyclopdia of ,civil ,engineering4 #hvo4 #bes4 ,culley's ,handbook of ,practical ,telegraphy4 #hvo4 #afs4 ,eastlake's ,household ,taste in ,furniture1 c4 ,square crown #hvo4 #ads4 ,fairbairn's ,useful ,information for ,engineers4 #c vols4 crown #hvo4 #cas4 #f;d4 ---- ,mills and ,millwork4 #a vol4 #hvo4 #bes4 ,gwilt's ,encyclopdia of ,architecture4 #hvo4 #ebs4 #f;d4 ,kerl's ,metallurgy1 adapted by ,crookes and ,rhrig4 #c vols4 #hvo4 #d4 #ais4 ,loudon's ,encyclopdia of ,agriculture4 #hvo4 #bas4 ---- ---- ---- ,gardening4 #hvo4 #bas4 ,mitchell's ,manual of ,practical ,assaying4 #hvo4 #cas4 #f;d4 ,northcott's ,lathes and ,turning4 #hvo4 #ahs4 ,payen's ,industrial ,chemistry4 ,edited by ,b4 ,h4 ,paul1 ,ph4,d4 #hvo4 #dbs4 ,piesse's ,art of ,perfumery4 ,fourth ,edition4 ,square crown #hvo4 #bas4 ,sennett's ,treatise on the ,marine ,steam ,engine4 #hvo4 #bas4 ,ure's ,dictionary of ,arts1 ,manufactures1 and ,mines4 #d vols4 medium #hvo4 #g4 #gs4 ,ville on ,artificial ,manures4 ,by ,crookes4 #hvo4 #bas4 ,,religious ,,and ,,moral ,,works4 ,abbey ,overton's ,english ,church in the ,eighteenth ,century4 #b vols4 #hvo4 #cfs4 ,arnold's 7,rev4 ,dr4 ,thomas7 ,sermons4 #f vols4 crown #hvo4 #es4 each4 ,bishop ,jeremy ,taylor's ,entire ,works4 ,with ,life by ,bishop ,heber4 ,edited by the ,rev4 ,c4 ,p4 ,eden4 #aj vols4 #hvo4 #e4 #es4 ,boultbee's ,commentary on the #ci ,articles4 ,crown #hvo4 #fs4 -- ,history of the ,church of ,england1 ,pre-,reformation ,period4 #hvo4 #aes4 ,bray's ,elements of ,morality4 ,pep4 #hvo4 #bs4 #f;d4 ,browne's 7,bishop7 ,exposition of the #ci ,articles4 #hvo4 #afs4 ,calvert's ,wife's ,manual4 ,crown #hvo4 #fs4 ,christ our ,ideal4 #hvo4 #hs4 #f;d4 ,colenso's ,lectures on the ,pentateuch and the ,moabite ,stone4 #hvo4 #abs4 ,colenso on the ,pentateuch and ,book of ,joshua4 ,crown #hvo4 #fs4 ,conder's ,handbook of the ,bible4 ,post #hvo4 #gs4 #f;d4 ,conybeare ,howson's ,life and ,letters of ,st4 ,paul3-- ,library ,edition1 with all the ,original ,illustrations1 ,maps1 ,landscapes on ,steel1 ,woodcuts1 c4 #b vols4 #dto4 #dbs4 ,intermediate ,edition1 with a ,selection of ,maps1 ,plates1 and ,woodcuts4 #b vols4 square crown #hvo4 #bas4 ,student's ,edition1 revised and condensed1 with #df ,illustrations and ,maps4 #a vol4 crown #hvo4 #gs4 #f;d4 ,creighton's ,history of the ,papacy during the ,reformation4 #b vols4 #hvo4 #cbs4 ,davidson's ,introduction to the ,study of the ,new ,testament4 #b vols4 #hvo4 #cjs4 ,edersheim's ,life and ,times of ,jesus the ,messiah4 #b vols4 #hvo4 #dbs4 ---- ,prophecy and ,history in relation to the ,messiah4 #hvo4 #abs4 ,ellicott's 7,bishop7 ,commentary on ,st4 ,paul's ,epistles4 #hvo4 ,galatians1 #hs4 #f;d4 ,ephesians1 #hs4 #f;d4 ,pastoral ,epistles1 #ajs4 #f;d4 ,philippians1 ,colossians and ,philemon1 #ajs4 #f;d4 ,thessalonians1 #gs4 #f;d4 ,ellicott's ,lectures on the ,life of our ,lord4 #hvo4 #abs4 ,ewald's ,antiquities of ,israel1 translated by ,solly4 #hvo4 #abs4 #f;d4 ---- ,history of ,israel1 translated by ,carpenter ,smith4 ,vols4 #a-g1 #hvo4 #e4 ,gospel 7,the7 for the ,nineteenth ,century4 #dth ,edition4 #hvo4 #ajs4 #f;d4 ,hopkins's ,christ the ,consoler4 ,pep4 #hvo4 #bs4 #f;d4 ,jukes's ,new ,man and the ,eternal ,life4 ,crown #hvo4 #fs4 ---- ,second ,death and the ,restitution of all ,things4 ,crown #hvo4 #cs4 #f;d4 ---- ,types of ,genesis4 ,crown #hvo4 #gs4 #f;d4 ---- ,the ,mystery of the ,kingdom4 ,crown #hvo4 #cs4 #f;d4 ,lyra ,germanica3 ,hymns translated by ,miss ,winkworth4 ,fcp4 #hvo4 #es4 ,macdonald's 7,g47 ,unspoken ,sermons4 ,second ,series4 ,crown #hvo4 #gs4 #f;d4 ---- ---- ,a ,book of ,strife3 in the ,form of the ,diary of an ,old ,soul3 ,poems4 #abmo4 #fs4 ,manning's ,temporal ,mission of the ,holy ,ghost4 ,crown #hvo4 #hs4 #f;d4 ,martineau's ,endeavours after the ,christian ,life4 ,crown #hvo4 #gs4 #f;d4 ---- ,hymns of ,praise and ,prayer4 ,crown #hvo4 #ds4 #f;d4 #cbmo4 #as4 #f;d4 ---- ,sermons1 ,hours of ,thought on ,sacred ,things4 #b vols4 #gs4 #f;d4 each4 ,mill's ,three ,essays on ,religion4 #hvo4 #ajs4 #f;d4 ,monsell's ,spiritual ,songs for ,sundays and ,holidays4 ,fcp4 #hvo4 #es4 #ahmo4 #bs4 ,mller's 7,max7 ,origin and ,growth of ,religion4 ,crown #hvo4 #gs4 #f;d4 ---- ---- ,science of ,religion4 ,crown #hvo4 #gs4 #f;d4 ,newman's ,apologia pro ,vit ,su4 ,crown #hvo4 #fs4 ---- ,the ,idea of a ,university ,defined and ,illustrated4 ,crown #hvo4 #gs4 ---- ,historical ,sketches4 #c vols4 crown #hvo4 #fs4 each4 ---- ,discussions and ,arguments on ,various ,subjects4 ,crown #hvo4 #fs4 ---- ,an ,essay on the ,development of ,christian ,doctrine4 ,crown #hvo4 #fs4 ---- ,certain ,difficulties ,felt by ,anglicans in ,catholic ,teaching ,considered4 ,vol4 #a1 crown #hvo4 #gs4 #f;d42 ,vol4 #b1 crown #hvo4 #es4 #f;d4 ---- ,the ,via ,media of the ,anglican ,church1 ,illustrated in ,lectures1 c4 #b vols4 crown #hvo4 #fs4 each4 ---- ,essays1 ,critical and ,historical4 #b vols4 crown #hvo4 #abs4 ---- ,essays on ,biblical and on ,ecclesiastical ,miracles4 ,crown #hvo4 #fs4 ---- ,an ,essay in ,aid of a ,grammar of ,assent4 #gs4 #f;d4 ,sewell's 7,miss7 ,passing ,thoughts on ,religion4 ,fcp4 #hvo4 #cs4 #f;d4 ---- ---- ,preparation for the ,holy ,communion4 #cbmo4 #cs4 ,seymour's ,hebrew ,psalter4 ,crown #hvo4 #bs4 #f;d4 ,smith's ,voyage and ,shipwreck of ,st4 ,paul4 ,crown #hvo4 #gs4 #f;d4 ,supernatural ,religion4 ,complete ,edition4 #c vols4 #hvo14 #cfs4 ,whately's ,lessons on the ,christian ,evidences4 #ahmo4 #f;d4 ,white's ,four ,gospels in ,greek1 with ,greek-,english ,lexicon4 #cbmo4 #es4 ,,travels1 ,,voyages1 c4 ,aldridge's ,ranch ,notes in ,kansas1 ,colorado1 c4 ,crown #hvo4 #es4 ,baker's ,eight ,years in ,ceylon4 ,crown #hvo4 #es4 ---- ,rifle and ,hound in ,ceylon4 ,crown #hvo4 #es4 ,ball's ,alpine ,guide4 #c vols4 post #hvo4 with ,maps and ,illustrations3-- ,i4 ,western ,alps1 #fs4 #f;d4 ,,ii4 ,central ,alps1 #gs4 #f;d4 ,,iii4 ,eastern ,alps1 #ajs4 #f;d4 ,ball on ,alpine ,travelling1 and on the ,geology of the ,alps1 #as4 ,bent's ,the ,cyclades1 or ,life among the ,insular ,greeks4 ,crown #hvo4 #abs4 #f;d4 ,brassey's ,sunshine and ,storm in the ,east4 ,crown #hvo4 #gs4 #f;d4 ---- ,voyage in the ,yacht #8,sunbeam4' ,crown #hvo4 #gs4 #f;d4 ,school ,edition1 fcp4 #hvo4 #bs4 ,popular ,edition1 #dto4 #f;d4 ---- ,in the ,trades1 the ,tropics1 and the #8,roaring ,forties4' ,edition de ,luxe1 ,map1 #hvo4 #c4 #acs4 #f;d4 ,library ,edition1 #hvo4 #bas4 ,crawford's ,across the ,pampas and the ,andes4 ,crown #hvo4 #gs4 #f;d4 ,dent's ,above the ,snow ,line4 ,crown #hvo4 #gs4 #f;d4 ,freeman's ,impressions of the ,united ,states of ,america4 ,crown #hvo4 #fs4 ,hassall's ,san ,remo ,climatically considered4 ,crown #hvo4 #es4 ,maritime ,alps 7,the7 and their ,seaboard4 ,by the ,author of #8,vra4' #hvo4 #bas4 ,miller's ,wintering in the ,riviera4 ,post #hvo4 ,illustrations1 #gs4 #f;d4 ,the ,alpine ,club ,map of ,switzerland4 ,in ,four ,sheets4 #dbs4 ,three in ,norway4 ,by ,two of ,them4 ,crown #hvo4 ,illustrations1 #fs4 ,,works ,,of ,,fiction4 ,antinous3 an ,historical ,romance of the ,roman ,empire4 ,crown #hvo4 #fs4 ,black ,poodle 7,the7 and other ,tales4 ,by the ,author of #8,vice ,vers4' ,cr4 #hvo4 #fs4 ,cabinet ,edition of ,novels and ,tales by the ,earl of ,beaconsfield1 ,k4,g4 #aa vols4 crown #hvo4 price #fs4 each4 ,cabinet ,edition of ,stories and ,tales by ,miss ,sewell4 ,crown #hvo4 cloth extra gilt edges1 price #cs4 #f;d4 each3-- ,amy ,herbert4 ,cleve ,hall4 ,the ,earl's ,daughter4 ,experience of ,life4 ,gertrude4 ,ivors4 ,a ,glimpse of the ,world4 ,katharine ,ashton4 ,laneton ,parsonage4 ,margaret ,percival4 ,ursula4 ,harte 7,bret7 ,on the ,frontier4 ,three ,stories4 #afmo4 #as4 ,novels and ,tales by the ,earl of ,beaconsfield1 ,k4,g4 ,hughenden ,edition1 with #b ,portraits on ,steel and #aa ,vignettes on ,wood4 #aa vols4 crown #hvo4 #b4 #bs4 ,the ,modern ,novelist's ,library4 ,each ,work in crown #hvo4 ,a ,single ,volume1 complete in itself1 price #bs4 boards1 or #bs4 #f;d4 cloth3-- ,by the ,earl of ,beaconsfield1 ,k4,g4 ,lothair4 ,coningsby4 ,sybil4 ,tancred4 ,venetia4 ,henrietta ,temple4 ,contarini ,fleming4 ,alroy1 ,ixion1 c4 ,the ,young ,duke1 c4 ,vivian ,grey4 ,endymion4 ,by ,bret ,harte4 ,in the ,carquinez ,woods4 ,by ,mrs4 ,oliphant4 ,in ,trust1 the ,story of a ,lady and her ,lover4 ,by ,james ,payn4 ,thicker than ,water4 ,by ,anthony ,trollope4 ,barchester ,towers4 ,the ,warden4 ,by ,major ,whyte-,melville4 ,digby ,grand4 ,general ,bounce4 ,kate ,coventry4 ,the ,gladiators4 ,good for ,nothing4 ,holmby ,house4 ,the ,interpreter4 ,the ,queen's ,maries4 ,by ,various ,writers4 ,the ,atelier du ,lys4 ,atherstone ,priory4 ,the ,burgomaster's ,family4 ,elsa and her ,vulture4 ,mademoiselle ,mori4 ,the ,six ,sisters of the ,valleys4 ,unawares4 ,in the ,olden ,time4 ,by the ,author of #8,mademoiselle ,mori4' ,crown #hvo4 #fs4 ,oliphant's 7,mrs47 ,madam4 ,crown #hvo4 #cs4 #f;d4 ,sturgis' ,my ,friend and ,i4 ,crown #hvo4 #es4 ,,poetry ,,and ,,the ,,drama4 ,bailey's ,festus1 a ,poem4 ,crown4 #hvo4 #abs4 #f;d4 ,bowdler's ,family ,shakespeare4 ,medium #hvo4 #ads4 #f vols4 fcp4 #hvo4 #bas4 ,conington's neid of ,virgil1 translated into ,english ,verse4 ,crown #hvo4 #is4 ---- ,prose ,translation of ,virgil's ,poems4 ,crown #hvo4 #is4 ,dante's ,divine ,comedy1 translated by ,james ,innes ,minchin4 ,crown #hvo4 #aes4 ,goethe's ,faust1 translated by ,birds4 ,large crown #hvo4 #abs4 #f;d4 ---- ---- translated by ,webb4 #hvo4 #abs4 #f;d4 ---- ---- edited by ,selss4 ,crown #hvo4 #es4 ,homer's ,iliad1 ,greek ,text with ,verse ,translation by ,w4 ,c4 ,green4 ,vol4 #a1 crown #hvo4 #fs4 ,ingelow's ,poems4 ,new ,edition4 #b vols4 fcp4 #hvo4 #abs4 ,macaulay's ,lays of ,ancient ,rome1 with ,ivry and the ,armada4 ,illustrated by ,weguelin4 ,crown #hvo4 #cs4 #f;d4 gilt edges4 ,the same1 ,annotated ,edition1 fcp4 #hvo4 #as4 sewed1 #as4 #f;d4 cloth1 #bs4 #f;d4 cloth extra4 ,the same1 ,popular ,edition4 ,illustrated by ,scharf4 ,fcp4 #dto4 #f;d4 swd1 #as4 cloth4 ,pennell's 7,cholmondeley7 #8,from ,grave to ,gay4' ,a ,volume of ,selections4 ,fcp4 #hvo4 #fs4 ,southey's ,poetical ,works4 ,medium #hvo4 #ads4 ,stevenson's ,a ,child's ,garden of ,verses4 ,fcp4 #hvo4 #es4 ,,rural ,,sports1 ,,horse ,,and ,,cattle ,,management1 c4 ,dead ,shot 7,the7 by ,marksman4 ,crown #hvo4 #ajs4 #f;d4 ,fitzwygram's ,horses and ,stables4 #hvo4 #ajs4 #f;d4 ,francis's ,treatise on ,fishing in all its ,branches4 ,post #hvo4 #aes4 ,horses and ,roads4 ,by ,free-,lance4 ,crown #hvo4 #fs4 ,howitt's ,visits to ,remarkable ,places4 ,crown #hvo4 #gs4 #f;d4 ,jefferies' ,the ,red ,deer4 ,crown #hvo4 #ds4 #f;d4 ,lloyd1 ,the ,science of ,agriculture4 #hvo4 #abs4 ,miles's ,horse's ,foot1 and ,how to ,keep it ,sound4 ,imperial #hvo4 #abs4 #f;d4 ---- ,plain ,treatise on ,horse-,shoeing4 ,post #hvo4 #bs4 #f;d4 ---- ,remarks on ,horses' ,teeth4 ,post #hvo4 #as4 #f;d4 ---- ,stables and ,stable-,fittings4 ,imperial #hvo4 #aes4 ,nevile's ,farms and ,farming4 ,crown #hvo4 #fs4 ---- ,horses and ,riding4 ,crown #hvo4 #fs4 ,peel's ,a ,highland ,gathering4 ,illustrated4 ,crown #hvo4 #ajs4 #f;d4 ,ronalds's ,fly-,fisher's ,entomology4 #hvo4 #ads4 ,steel's ,diseases of the ,ox1 a ,manual of ,bovine ,pathology4 #hvo4 #aes4 ,stonehenge's ,dog in ,health and ,disease4 ,square crown #hvo4 #gs4 #f;d4 ---- ,greyhound4 ,square crown #hvo4 #aes4 ,wilcocks's ,sea-,fisherman4 ,post #hvo4 #fs4 ,youatt's ,work on the ,dog4 #hvo4 #fs4 -------------------- ,horse4 #hvo4 #gs4 #f;d4 ,,works ,,of ,,utility ,,and ,,general ,,information4 ,acton's ,modern ,cookery for ,private ,families4 ,fcp4 #hvo4 #ds4 #f;d4 ,black's ,practical ,treatise on ,brewing4 #hvo4 #ajs4 #f;d4 ,buckton's ,food and ,home ,cookery4 ,crown #hvo4 #bs4 #f;d4 ,bull on the ,management of ,children4 ,fcp4 #hvo4 #as4 #f;d4 ,bull's ,hints to ,mothers on the ,management of their ,health during the ,period of ,pregnancy and in the ,lying-in ,room4 ,fcp4 #hvo4 #as4 #f;d4 ,burton's ,my ,home ,farm4 ,crown #hvo4 #cs4 #f;d4 ,campbell-,walker's ,correct ,card1 or ,how to ,play at ,whist4 ,fcp4 #hvo4 #bs4 #f;d4 ,edwards' ,our ,seamarks4 ,crown #hvo4 #hs4 #f;d4 ,johnson's 7,w4 ,j4 ,h47 ,patentee's ,manual4 ,fourth ,edition4 #hvo4 #ajs4 #f;d4 ---- ---- ,the ,patents ,designs c4 ,act1 #ahhc4 ,fcp4 #hvo4 #as4 ,longman's ,chess ,openings4 ,fcp4 #hvo4 #bs4 #f;d4 ,macleod's ,elements of ,banking4 ,crown #hvo4 #es4 ---- ,elements of ,economics4 #b vols4 small crown #hvo4 ,vol4 #a1 #gs4 #f;d4 ---- ,theory and ,practice of ,banking4 #b vols4 #hvo4 ,vol4 #a1 #abs4 ,m',culloch's ,dictionary of ,commerce and ,commercial ,navigation4 #hvo4 #fcs4 ,maunder's ,biographical ,treasury4 ,fcp4 #hvo4 #fs4 ---- ,historical ,treasury4 ,fcp4 #hvo4 #fs4 ---- ,scientific and ,literary ,treasury4 ,fcp4 #hvo4 #fs4 ---- ,treasury of ,bible ,knowledge1 edited by ,ayre4 ,fcp4 #hvo4 #fs4 ---- ,treasury of ,botany1 edited by ,lindley ,moore4 ,two ,parts1 #abs4 ---- ,treasury of ,geography4 ,fcp4 #hvo4 #fs4 ---- ,treasury of ,knowledge and ,library of ,reference4 ,fcp4 #hvo4 #fs4 ---- ,treasury of ,natural ,history4 ,fcp4 #hvo4 #fs4 ,pole's ,theory of the ,modern ,scientific ,game of ,whist4 ,fcp4 #hvo4 #bs4 #f;d4 ,proctor's ,how to ,play ,whist4 ,crown #hvo4 #es4 ,quain's ,dictionary of ,medicine4 ,medium #hvo4 #cas4 #f;d41 or in #b vols4 #cds4 ,reeve's ,cookery and ,housekeeping4 ,crown #hvo4 #gs4 #f;d4 ,scott's ,farm ,valuer4 ,crown #hvo4 #es4 ,smith's ,handbook for ,midwives4 ,crown #hvo4 #es4 ,the ,cabinet ,lawyer1 a ,popular ,digest of the ,laws of ,england4 ,fcp4 #hvo4 #is4 ,verney's ,chess ,eccentricities4 ,crown #hvo4 #ajs4 #f;d4 ,ville on ,artificial ,manures1 by ,crookes4 #hvo4 #bas4 ,willich's ,popular ,tables1 by ,marriott4 ,crown #hvo4 #ajs4 ------- ,london1 ,,longmans1 ,,green1 ,,co4 ,spottiswoode ,co4 ,printers1 ,new-street ,square1 ,london4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,transcriber's ,notes 7for this ,gutenberg ebook73 ,there are several places where a word or words are illegible or missing from the text4 ,they are marked with a ,transcribler's ,note ,,tn4 ,missing or incorrect accents on ,french words were silently corrected4 ,missing or obscured punctuation was silently corrected4 ,typographical errors were silently corrected4 ,inconsistent spelling and hyphenation were made consistent only when a predominant form was found in this book4 ,the book contained several references to ,chapter ,,xxxiv1 but the last chapter is numbered ,,xxxii4 ,an attempt was made to correct these references4 ,text that3 was in italics is enclosed by underscores 7italics72 was in bold by is enclosed by 8equal0 signs 7bold74