,,the ,,gunsmith',s ,,manual2 ,a ,,complete ,,handbook ,,for ,,the ,,american ,,gunsmith1 ,,being ,a ,,practical ,,guide ,,to ,,all ,,branches ,,of ,,the ,,trade4 ,by ,j4 ,p4 ,,stelle and ,,wm4 ,b4 ,,harrison4 ,entered according to ,act of ,congress1 in the year #ahhc1 ,by ,,jesse ,,haney ,,co41 ,in the ,office of the ,librarian of ,congress1 at ,washington4 ,,index4 ,,page ,,chapter ,i4 ,,history ,,of ,,the ,,gun #i ,discovery of ,gunpowder #i ,the ,first ,fire ,arms #i ,earliest ,hand ,guns #aj ,prejudice ,against ,fire ,arms #aj ,the ,first ,rifle #aa ,the ,arquebus #aa ,the ,match ,lock #ab ,musket1 ,petronel #ac ,the ,wheel ,lock #ac ,the ,pistol #ad ,the ,snaphaunce #ad ,the ,flint ,lock #ae ,important ,improvements #ae ,advance of the ,rifle #af ,the ,percussion ,lock #af ,the ,breech ,loader #ah ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,,how ,,guns ,,are ,,made #bb ,gunsmith1 ,gunmaker #bb ,gun ,barrels1 ,best ,materials for #bc ,on ,making ,gun ,barrels #bd ,finishing and ,proving #be ,action1 ,stock and ,final ,finish #bf ,on ,making the ,rifle #bg ,plain ,steel ,barrel ,guns #bg ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,,guns ,,now ,,in ,,use #bi ,gun ,defined #bi ,the ,old ,flint ,lock ,gun #bi ,the ,percussion ,lock ,gun #ca ,on the ,muzzle ,loaders #cc ,the ,breech ,loaders #cd ,variety of ,breech ,loaders #cf ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,,pistols ,,now ,,in ,,use #cg ,old ,style ,pistols #cg ,the ,derringer #ch ,the ,pepper ,box #ch ,old ,colt's ,revolver #ch ,sharp's ,four-shooter #ci ,the ,breech ,loading ,cartridge ,pistols #ci ,,chapter ,v4 ,,on ,,general ,,gunsmithing #da ,the ,gunsmith and his ,trade #da ,fitting up a ,shop #da ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,,taking ,,apart1 ,,cleaning ,,and ,,putting ,,guns ,,together #dc ,to ,take the ,gun ,apart #dc ,to ,clean the ,gun ,when ,apart #dd ,to ,put the ,gun ,together #de ,,chapter ,,vii4 ,,tools ,,required ,,for ,,work1 ,,their ,,cost1 ,,etc4 #dg ,the ,alcohol ,lamp #dg ,the ,alcohol ,lamp1 ,self-blowing #dg ,anvil #dh ,barrel ,planes #dh ,bevel #di ,beveling ,clamp #di ,blacksmith's ,tongs #ej ,blow ,pipe #ej ,breeching ,taps #ea ,calipers and ,dividers #ea ,chisels #ea ,cutting ,pliers #ea ,drill ,stock #ea ,tile ,cord #eb ,tilting ,square #eb ,floats #eb ,forge #ec ,glue ,pot #ec ,gouges #ec ,grind ,stone #ed ,hack ,saw #ed ,hammers #ed ,handles #ee ,hand ,shears #ee ,hand ,vice #ee ,iron ,clamps #ee ,mainspring ,vise #ef ,marking ,gauge #eg ,screw-cutting ,tools #eg ,screw ,wrench #eg ,soldering ,copper #eg ,screw-,drivers #eg ,pliers #eh ,wing ,dividers #eh ,,chapter ,,viii4 ,,tools1 ,,etc41 ,,and ,,how ,,to ,,make ,,them #ei ,the ,alcohol ,lamp #ei ,a ,self-blowing ,lamp #fa ,breech ,wrenches #fc ,the ,bit ,stock #fd ,bottoming ,tools #fe ,chequering ,tools #ff ,nipple ,wrenches #fg ,portable ,forge #fg ,vice ,appendages #fi ,shanks of ,tools #gb ,,chapter ,,ix4 ,,the ,,work ,,bench #gd ,material for the ,work ,bench #gd ,how to ,make the ,work ,bench #ge ,putting the ,vise in ,place #gf ,place for ,drawer #gf ,the ,gun ,brace #gf ,how to ,deaden the ,noise of ,hammering #gg ,,chapter ,x4 ,,on ,,working ,,in ,,iron #gi ,hand ,forging #gi ,welding #gi ,hardening ,iron by ,hammering #hj ,case-hardening #ha ,a ,good ,way to ,case-harden #hb ,material for ,case-hardening #hd ,another ,way to ,case-harden #he ,another ,formula for ,case-hardening #hf ,still ,another ,formula #hg ,to ,chill ,cast ,iron #hg ,another ,mode #hg ,to ,soften ,wrought ,iron #hg ,alloy for ,filling ,holes in ,iron #hg ,to ,harden ,iron for ,polishing #hh ,,chapter ,,xi4 ,,on ,,working ,,in ,,steel #hi ,hand ,forging ,steel #hi ,welding ,steel #hi ,tempering #ia ,to ,restore ,burnt ,steel #ic ,annealing ,steel #id ,to ,blue ,steel #id ,to ,remove ,blue ,color ,from ,steel #id ,tempering ,knife ,blades #ie ,the ,lead ,bath for ,tempering #if ,test for ,good ,steel #ig ,etching on ,steel #ig ,,chapter ,,xii4 ,,on ,,working ,,in ,,silver1 ,,copper ,,and ,,brass #ii ,to ,forge ,silver #ii ,to ,polish ,silver #ii ,light ,plate for ,copper or ,brass #ii ,to ,clean ,silver #ajj ,to ,work ,copper #ajj ,to ,work ,brass #aja ,to ,cast ,brass #aja ,to ,brass ,iron #ajb ,to ,clean ,brass #ajb ,to ,solder ,brass #ajb ,,chapter ,,xiii4 ,,on ,,working ,,in ,,wood #ajd ,the ,woods ,most in ,use #ajd ,wood for ,gun ,stocks #aje ,,chapter ,,xiv4 ,,on ,,gun ,,stocks #ajh ,form of ,gun ,stocks #ajh ,dimensions for ,single ,gun #aaa ,dimensions for ,double ,gun #aaa ,laying ,out ,gun ,stocks #aaa ,how to ,stock a ,gun #aad ,the ,first ,operation in ,stocking #aad ,setting in the ,barrels #aae ,measure for the ,stock #aaf ,the ,butt #aaf ,setting in the ,locks #aaf ,setting in the ,trigger ,plate #aag ,setting in the ,triggers #aag ,secure ,fastenings #aah ,fitting ,bolt ,loops #aah ,hints for ,finishing #aai ,fitting the ,break-off #aai ,to ,let in ,escutcheons #abj ,how to ,cast ,tips on ,fore ,end of ,stock #abj ,chequering #abb ,coloring ,gun ,stocks #abb ,to ,stain a ,maple ,stock #abc ,another ,method #abc ,to ,color a ,maple ,stock ,brown #abc ,to ,color a ,reddish ,brown #abc ,to ,color ,black #abd ,rosewood ,stain #abd ,black ,walnut ,stain #abd ,mahogany ,stain #abe ,cherry ,stain #abe ,oil ,finish for ,gun ,stocks #abe ,varnishing and ,finishing #abf ,the ,varnish for ,gun ,stocks #abg ,the ,varnish ,can #abh ,,chapter ,,xv4 ,,on ,,gun ,,barrels #abi ,long and ,short ,barrels #abi ,proof of ,barrels #aca ,proof ,marks on ,barrels #acc ,gauge of ,guns #ace ,bursting of ,barrels #ach ,to ,prevent ,barrels from ,rusting #ach ,protection from ,rust #ach ,,chapter ,,xvi4 ,,on ,,work ,,on ,,gun ,,barrels #adj ,boring ,gun ,barrels #adj ,how to ,make ,cutters for ,boring #ada ,quick ,boring ,gun ,barrels #ada ,proving the ,size ,during ,boring #adb ,draw ,boring #adb ,choke ,boring #adc ,choke ,dressing #add ,barrels ,most ,suitable for ,choke ,boring #ade ,freeing ,gun ,barrels #ade ,another ,method #adf ,finishing ,muzzles of ,gun ,barrels #adg ,old ,method of ,straightening ,barrels #adh ,the ,new ,method #adh ,another ,method #aec ,fitting ,barrels ,together #aec ,joining ,barrels ,together #aef ,soldering ,barrels ,together #aeg ,why ,not ,brase ,barrels #aeh ,percussioning #aei ,finishing ,nipple ,seat #afa ,the ,vent in ,percussion ,guns #afb ,the ,patent ,breech #afc ,form of the ,chamber or ,cup #afd ,,chapter ,,xvii4 ,,tools ,,for ,,breeching ,,guns #afe ,breeching ,reamers #afe ,breeching ,taps #aff ,breech ,pin ,formers #afi ,,chapter ,,xviii4 ,,tools ,,for ,,chambering ,,breech ,,loading ,,barrels #agj ,,chapter ,,xix4 ,,on ,,gun ,,ribs #agc ,how to ,straighten a ,rib #agc ,how to ,fit a ,rib #agd ,how to ,fit a ,rib to an ,octagon ,barrel #agd ,how to ,solder on a ,rib #agd ,how to ,re-solder ,ribs #agf ,height of ,ribs #agh ,,chapter ,,xx4 ,,on ,,thimbles #ahj ,how to ,make ,thimbles #ahj ,how to ,put ,thimbles on ,barrels #aha ,,chapter ,,xxi4 ,,on ,,rifling ,,guns #ahc ,importance of ,rifling #ahc ,u4 ,s4 ,rifling ,machines #ahd ,old ,fashioned ,rifling ,machines #ahf ,gain ,twist ,rifling ,machines #ahh ,re-rifling #ahh ,,chapter ,,xxii4 ,,on ,,gun ,,locks #aij ,quality of ,locks #aij ,the ,back ,action ,lock #aia ,the ,bar ,lock #aia ,side ,action ,lock #aib ,the ,wesley ,bar ,lock #aic ,the ,central ,lock #aic ,cleaning ,locks1 etc4 #aid ,how to ,take ,down a ,lock #aie ,to ,clean and ,oil the ,lock #aif ,how to ,put up a ,lock #aig ,,chapter ,,xxiii4 ,,on ,,fitting ,,gun ,,hammers #aii ,to ,fit a ,hammer on a ,tumbler #aii ,the ,drift for ,squaring the ,hole #bjj ,a ,tool for ,fitting ,hammers #bjb ,,chapter ,,xxiv4 ,,on ,,nipples ,,or ,,cones #bje ,forms of ,nipples #bje ,nipples for ,breech ,loading ,arms #bjf ,nipples with ,flat ,tops #bjf ,the ,american ,musket ,nipple #bjg ,nipples ,used in ,sporting ,guns #bjh ,preparing ,nipples for ,guns #bjh ,remedy for ,bad ,nipples #bji ,pistol ,nipples #bji ,plugs for ,nipples #bji ,,chapter ,,xxv4 ,,on ,,springs #bab ,main ,springs #bab ,sear ,springs #bab ,how to ,forge ,main ,springs #bac ,how to ,temper ,main ,springs #bad ,cheap ,springs for ,revolvers #bae ,coiling ,wire for ,springs1 etc4 #baf ,,chapter ,,xxvi4 ,,on ,,rods #bbj ,how to ,make ,ram ,rods #bbj ,how to ,make ,wiping ,rods #bbb ,,chapter ,,xxvii4 ,,on ,,bullet ,,moulds #bbd ,joints for ,bullet ,moulds #bbd ,how to ,make a ,ball ,cherry #bbg ,tempering ,ball ,cherries #bcb ,,chapter ,,xxviii4 ,,screw ,,making ,,tools #bcc ,how to ,make ,screw ,tools #bcc ,how to ,make ,small ,taps #bce ,,chapter ,,xxix4 ,,nomenclature #bch ,nomenclature of the ,gun ,stock #bch ,nomenclature of the ,gun ,lock #bci ,nomenclature of the ,hammer #bdj ,nomenclature of the ,lock ,plate #bdj ,nomenclature of the ,tumbler #bda ,nomenclature of the ,bridle #bda ,nomenclature of the ,main ,spring #bda ,nomenclature of the ,sear #bda ,nomenclature of the ,sear ,spring #bda ,nomenclature of the ,swivel #bdb ,nomenclature of the ,breech ,pin #bdb ,nomenclature of the ,screws #bdb ,,chapter ,,xxx4 ,,on ,,browning #bdc ,objects of ,browning #bdc ,preparatory ,process #bdc ,the ,process of ,browning #bde ,browning ,damascus ,barrels #bde ,browning ,belgian ,damascus ,barrels #bde ,browning ,inferior ,barrels #bdf ,plain ,welded ,barrels ,made to ,resemble ,twist #bdg ,smoke ,staining #bdg ,,chapter ,,xxxi4 ,,recipes ,,for ,,browning #bdi ,thirteen ,recipes for ,plain ,barrels #bdi ,four ,recipes for ,twist ,barrels #beb ,to ,blue ,gun ,barrels #beb ,brown ,tint for ,iron or ,steel #bec ,transparent ,blue for ,iron or ,steel #bec ,varnish for ,browned ,barrels1 ,three ,recipes #bec ,finish for ,browned ,barrels #bed ,to ,remove ,old ,browning #bed ,,chapter ,,xxxii4 ,,miscellaneous #bee ,shellac and ,its ,uses #bee ,how to ,make ,shellac ,varnish #bee ,how to ,conceal ,bad ,places in ,wood #bef ,another ,method #bef ,emery ,cloth and ,emery ,paper #bef ,uses of the ,alcohol ,lamp #beg ,how to ,make ,small ,springs #beg ,how to ,make ,small ,drills #beh ,advantages of the ,alcohol ,lamp #beh ,the ,soldering ,copper #beh ,how to ,heat the ,copper #beh ,how to ,tin the ,copper #bei ,to ,prevent ,gun ,barrels from ,glimmering #bei ,repairing ,shot ,chargers #bfj ,broken ,plunger ,nipples #bfa ,how to ,remove ,rusted ,screws1 ,nipples1 etc4 #bfa ,patent ,breech1 ,bursted #bfc ,broken ,tumblers #bfd ,describing ,lines on ,bright ,surfaces #bfd ,,chapter ,,xxxiii4 ,,on ,,powder ,,and ,,shot #bfg ,comparative ,sizes of ,shot #bgj ,soft ,shot ,pellets to ,ounce #bfi ,chilled ,shot ,pellets to ,ounce #bgj ,comparative ,sizes of ,balls #bgb ,colt's ,pistol ,sizes #bgb ,comparative ,sizes of ,gunpowder #bgc ,to ,select ,buck ,shot #bfg ,weighing ,bullets1 ,powder1 etc4 #bfg ,,chapter ,,xxxiv4 ,,miscellaneous ,,recipes #bgd ,soft ,soldering #bgd ,good ,soft ,solder #bgd ,soldering ,fluid #bge ,brazing #bge ,to ,brase ,lugs on ,barrels #bge ,hard ,soldering #bge ,hard ,solders1 ,three ,formulas #bgf ,alloy for ,adhering to ,iron or ,steel #bgf ,gun ,oil #bgf ,gunsmiths' ,glue #bgg ,,chapter ,,xxxv4 ,,on ,,judging ,,the ,,quality ,,of ,,guns #bgh ,the ,muzzle ,loading ,shot ,gun #bgi ,the ,muzzle ,loading ,rifle #bgi ,the ,breech ,loading ,shot ,gun #bhc ,the ,breech ,loading ,rifle #bhi ,,chapter ,,xxxvi4 ,,on ,,using ,,the ,,rifle #bib ,the ,old ,kentucky ,rifle #bib ,general ,directions #bid ,off-,hand ,shooting #bif ,rest ,shooting #bii ,,chapter ,,xxxvii4 ,,on ,,using ,,the ,,shot ,,gun #cjb ,born ,shooters #cjb ,how to ,shoot #cjd ,brewster on the ,use of ,two ,eyes #cjf ,dougall's ,reasoning #cjg ,gloan on ,taking ,aim #caj ,,chapter ,,xxxviii4 ,,on ,,using ,,the ,,pistol #cac ,natural ,talent #cac ,taking ,aim #cad ,cane ,aiming #cae ,the ,best ,pistols to ,use #caf ,,chapter ,,xxxix4 ,,vocabulary ,,of ,,mechanical ,,terms ,,used ,,by ,,gun ,,makers #cah ,,chapter ,,xl4 ,,vocabulary ,,of ,,chemicals ,,and ,,substances ,,used ,,in ,,varnishes1 ,,etc4 #ccd ,,chapter ,,xli4 ,,calibres ,,of ,,guns1 ,,rifling1 ,,twist ,,of ,,rifling1 ,,etc4 #cdb ,european ,guns #cdb ,american ,guns #cdc ,pistols #cdd ,,chapter ,,xlii4 ,,directions ,,for ,,taking ,,apart ,,and ,,assembling ,,guns1 ,,rifles ,,and ,,pistols #cdf ,rifles #cdf ,the ,ballard ,rifle #cdf ,the ,burgess ,system #cdf ,burnside's ,rifle #cdg ,the ,evans ,rifle #cdh ,hotchkiss ,repeater #cdi ,howard's 8,thunderbolt0 #cej ,the ,kennedy ,magazine ,rifle #cej ,martin ,repeating ,rifle #cea ,the ,maynard ,rifle #cea ,peabody ,martini ,rifle #cec ,the ,phnix #ced ,the ,remington ,system #cee ,remington ,magazine ,gun 7,keene's ,patent7 #ceg ,remington ,no4 #c 7,hepburn's ,patent7 #ceh ,sharp's ,rifle #ceh ,united ,states ,muzzle-,loading ,rifle and ,musket #cfj ,springfield ,breech-,loading ,rifle #cfa ,whitney ,breech-,loading ,gun #cfb ,whitney ,new ,system ,breech-,loading ,gun #cfd ,winchester ,magazine ,gun #cfe ,billings' ,breech-,loading ,shot ,gun #cff ,fox ,breech ,loading ,shot ,gun #cfg ,lefever ,hammerless ,gun #cfh ,parker ,double-,barreled ,breech-,loading ,shot ,gun #cfi ,remington ,double-,barreled ,breech-,loading ,shot ,gun #cfi ,roper ,four-,shooting ,shot ,gun and ,rifle #cgj ,,the ,,gunsmith',s ,,manual4 ,,chapter ,i4 ,,history ,,of ,,the ,,gun4 ,discovery of ,gunpowder4--,no authentic records have been left to show when or by whom was discovered the wonderful properties of the chemical compound now known as gunpowder2 nor have we any information concerning the uses to which it was originally applied4 ,there is little probability that it was at once employed as an agent in fire-arms2 indeed1 we have pretty strong evidence to show that it was not1 for ,roger ,bacon refers to it in his famous treatise1 ,de ,nullitate ,magi1 published ,a4 ,d41 #abaf1 while fire-arms are mentioned by no writer as having been known earlier than about #acch4 ,the ,first ,fire-,arms4--,the first fire-arms1 or guns1 as we now call them1 are said to have been rude cannon1 formed by banding together flat iron bars1 something on the plan of our wooden casks or barrels of to-day4 ,these guns were fired with a 8slow match10 the gunners retiring to a safe distance while the match was burning to the priming4 ,their earliest use was as engines of war4 ,the writers of ancient history tell us that they were so employed by the ,moors at the noted siege of ,algesiras1 ,spain1 in #acda1 and at the battle of ,calais1 in #acdf4 ,at the latter battle1 ,edward ,,iii is credited with having had four pieces1 which made him victorious4 ,earliest ,hand-,guns4--,it is claimed by ,spanish historians that to ,spain belongs the honor of having been the first power to furnish her soldiers with fire-arms so small that they could be transported by a single person4 ,they were unwieldy affairs at the beginning1 however2 really small cannon lashed upon wooden scantlings4 ,the soldier could not fire his piece off-hand1 but was forced to carry a 8rest0 with him wherever he went4 ,being ready to discharge his arm he balanced it upon the rest1 steadied it by holding the scantling under his arm1 and then 8touched it off0 with a live coal of fire1 while he sighted along the barrel to take aim at his object4 ,what happened immediately after the coal came in contact with the powder the historian saith not1 but a modern writer1 who has been examining one of these old guns in a museum1 jumps to the conclusion that the soldier1 with the scantling under his arm1 must have been launched suddenly into an impressive dream of first-class earthquakes1 or something else 8like unto the combined kicking of about fifty mules40 ,prejudice ,against ,fire-,arms4--,for about two centuries after the invention of hand fire-arms they were so inefficient that the cross-bow1 then in general use1 was able to quite successfully hold its own against them4 ,it was not until #aeif that ,queen ,elizabeth1 by a proclamation1 directed that cross and other bows used in the army should be discarded entirely in favor of muskets4 ,and thereat there arose much murmuring of dissatisfaction throughout the ,english ,empire1 according to ,michael ,montaigne1 a most prominent man of his time1 who narrates the fact1 and adds3 8,except the noise in our ears1 to which we will be henceforth accustomed1 ,i think the fire-arm is one of very little effect1 and ,i hope that we shall one day give up its use40 ,could he return to earth at this age1 and see the wonderful fire arms that have developed from the humble beginning of which he was then treating1 he would speedily lose his hope to the effect that one day its use would be entirely given up4 ,the ,first ,rifle4--,the first rifle is said to have been made about the close of the fifteenth century1 by one ,gaspard ,zollner1 of ,vienna4 ,it was a simple barrel with straight grooves2 the only object of the grooves being to prevent its becoming so 8dirty0 from continued use1 as did the smooth-bore4 ,spiral grooving does not seem to have been thought of until many years later4 ,the ,arquebus4--,the earliest noted improvement in the hand-gun1 making it lighter and giving it a longer barrel1 was called the arquebus2 but even this was so heavy that a 8rest0 was necessary while discharging it4 ,this rest was a single staff armed with a steel point which went into the ground like the ,jacob-staff of a surveyor1 but which fitted it for use as a pike when not employed in connection with the gun4 ,it was called the schweine feder1 which rendered into ,english means the 8hog's bristle40 ,the arquebus was a regular 8match-gun20 that is1 it had a 8pan0 or receptacle at the side of the breech for the priming powder1 which communicated with the interior of the barrel by a small perforation called the 8touch-hole40 ,the priming was lighted by a match1 which consisted of a coil of small rope saturated with some kind of chemical1 which caused it to burn readily and hold fire for a long time4 ,the soldier using the arquebus carried the match in his hand and kept it burning during an action4 ,the manner of setting off the piece was about the same as with the live coal--he secured his sight and then touched the priming with his lighted match4 ,the ,match ,lock4--,later1 the serpent-match was invented and looked upon as a startling improvement4 ,it was a simple ,s-shaped piece of iron or wire hinged to the side of the gun just back of the priming pan4 ,the upper end was provided with a beak which gripped the lighted fuse1 while the lower end played the part of a modern trigger4 ,with this contrivance the gunner had only to take sight and then pull with his finger upon the lower end of the ,s until the lighted fuse was brought down into the priming4 ,after many years of use an improvement was made upon the ,s1 consisting of a small spring which threw it back into an erect position so soon as the pressure upon the lower end was discontinued4 ,the powder employed with the old arquebus was of two grades as to size of grain2 a coarse grade for the charge1 and a fine grade for the priming4 ,its chemical composition does not seem to have differed materially from that of our modern gunpowder4 ,the serpent match1 so called because the upper end holding the fuse was often shaped to represent the head of a serpent1 was the first actual step taken towards a gun-lock4 ,it was thought to be perfection itself1 especially after the returning spring had been added1 and so strong a hold did it take upon all nations that only a few years has elapsed since it was wholly abandoned in some of the most benighted regions1 as in ,china1 for instance1 where it is known to have been used in the army at a date as late as #ahfj4 ,musket-,petronel4--,next in order to the arquebus came the musket1 a ,spanish invention4 ,it was heavier than its predecessor1 and carried a charge twice as large4 ,almost simultaneously with this appeared the first cavalry fire-arm1 which was called the petronel4 ,it was shorter than the musket and larger in bore2 the horseman rested its breech against his breast and communicated the fire by means of the serpent match4 ,the ,wheel-,lock4--,in #aeag the ,germans astonished the world by inventing and bringing into use the 8wheel-lock10 which was a regular gun-lock1 entirely doing away with the lighted match4 ,it consisted of a small disk of steel fluted on the edges1 set in close contact with the priming pan1 and made to revolve with great rapidity by means of a spiral spring arranged somewhat on the plan of the spring of a spring-clock4 ,in contact with its fluted edge1 and held there by a spring1 was arranged a sharp flint2 hence when the steel disk was set in motion a train of sparks was thrown off as it revolved over the edge of flint4 ,these sparks fell into the priming pan and ignited the powder1 discharging the piece4 ,the spring was wound up like winding a clock or watch1 and a slight pressure upon a trigger under the breech set the wheel in motion4 ,the pressure was continued until the gun was discharged1 when it was discontinued1 the result of which was an immediate stopping of the wheel4 ,a single winding would usually discharge the gun about half a dozen times4 ,the ,pistol4--,the wheel-lock went into quite general use1 finally leading to the invention of the pistol1 about #aedd4 ,the first pistols were single barrel1 and very short4 ,the stock was heavy1 and the breech or handle1 instead of leaving the barrel with a curve1 as in later days1 dropped at right angles to the iron4 ,it was put into use as a cavalry arm1 first by the ,germans and afterwards by the people of many other nations4 ,in #afjg the ,german horse soldiers were all regularly armed with double-barrel wheel-lock pistols4 ,the ,snaphaunce4--,after the date just mentioned modifications and improvements in fire-arms were rapid and constant4 ,the wheel-lock was finally followed by the 8snaphaunce10 which was a straight piece of furrowed steel brought to bear upon the flint instead of the disk4 ,it was more simple in its construction than the wheel-lock1 and hence less liable to get out of order4 ,of course it worked in obedience to the action of a spring1 but the spring was not a spiral--it was more on the plan of the mainspring in modern gun-locks4 ,the ,flint-,lock4--,about #afcj ,spain again popped to the surface2 this time with the regular flint-lock1 embracing precisely the same mechanism as the flint-lock used in our ,revolutionary war1 and familiar to very many of the older people of the present day4 ,its advantages over the wheel-lock and the snaphaunce were so marked that ,france at once adopted it for use in her armies1 but ,england held back1 contending that the wheel-lock was the better invention1 till #afij1 when she gave up the contest1 and adopted the flint-lock4 ,important ,improvements4--,rapidly following the invention of the flint-lock came important improvements in the musket4 ,the stock was lightened and put into better shape1 and sights were invented and placed upon the barrels4 ,up to this time the soldier had been forced to carry his ammunition in bulk1 but now cartridges were brought into use1 carried in convenient and neatly made cartridge-boxes4 ,steel bayonets to set over the muzzle of the gun also appeared1 the first in #afic4 ,prior to this time a rude kind of bayonet had been more or less in use--it was a sort of dagger set into a wooden handle1 the latter to be thrust into the muzzle of the gun in case of a hand-to-hand charge1 where loading and firing could not be attended to4 ,iron ramrods took the place of the inconvenient and unsafe wooden ones formerly in use1 which was regarded as a long stride in the efficiency of the musket4 ,with the old wooden ramrods1 clumsy and easily broken1 the loading of a musket was a slow and laborious task1 but the iron rod secured comparative ease and rapidity4 ,advance of the ,rifle4--,with the general improvement of fire-arms the rifle had worked gradually into favor and use4 ,its main drawback1 as an army gun1 laid in the difficulty experienced in loading it4 ,but it was admirably adapted to the wants of the people settling the wilds of the ,american continent1 hence they adopted it almost to the entire exclusion of any other kind of fire-arm4 ,in the armies its use was limited to a few corps of sharp-shooters1 usually on the frontiers where it was advantageous to harass the enemy by picking off his men at long range4 ,england seems to have been rather prejudiced against the rifle until after our war with her for ,independence4 ,in that war she appears to have had so striking a demonstration of its efficiency that she soon after adopted it as a military arm2 and other nations1 having faith in her superior judgment1 finally followed her example1 bringing the rifle rapidly upward in rank as an effectual implement of war4 ,the ,percussion ,lock4--,in #ahjg a ,scotch clergyman by the name of ,alexander ,forsyth1 invented a new method of igniting the charge in fire-arms1 which1 after various changes and improvements1 settled down to what is now known as the percussion cap4 ,the percussion lock was a simultaneous invention1 of course2 though it did not differ materially1 in point of construction1 from the old flint-lock already in use4 ,the main difference consisted in the substitution of a cylinder and tube for the priming pan and frizzen1 and a hammer for the cock4 ,a strong current of prejudice set at once against the percussion lock1 though nobody could tell why4 ,all declared it would not do1 but none attempted to give a reason for the faith that was in them4 ,as a result the new invention was pretty effectually held in the background until #ahcd1 when its opponents accepted a challenge for a public test of its merits against those of the flint-lock4 ,the test extended to #f1jjj rounds4 ,in the course of these the percussion lock 7afterwards more commonly known as the cap-lock71 gave but six miss-fires1 while the flint-lock scored nine hundred and twenty-two misses4 ,this astounding defeat at once sealed the fate of the flint-lock2 still it was a long time before the prejudice existing against the other could be entirely removed4 ,even as far down as the date of our ,mexican war1 ,general ,scott flatly objected to its use in his army1 and had his men armed with the flint-lock1 although there were then in our arsenals percussion-lock muskets enough to have armed all his forces more than twice over4 ,but facts are such stubborn things that even the strongest prejudice must give way to them sooner or later4 ,so it proved in this instance2 one by one the manufacturers of flint-lock fire-arms adopted the improvements resulting from the discoveries of the ,scotch clergyman1 until finally no more flint-locks were made1 and the percussion lock was in undisputed possession of the field4 ,the ,breech-,loader4--,when the percussion-lock had been fully adopted by the public1 and all the 8latest improvements0 had been added to it1 people thought that the fire-arm had attained to such a degree of perfection as to preclude any further change in the future2 but how mistaken6 ,the fate of the percussion-lock is now as much sealed as was that of the flint-lock at the test-trial of #ahcd4 ,it is going the way of all its predecessors1 and its entire extinction is only a matter of time4 ,the breech-loader1 with charge and ignition combined in the same cartridge1 is rapidly taking its place1 and1 until some new and wonderful discovery comes to the surface1 must1 undoubtedly1 stand paramount as the gun of the future4 ,while springing into general favor at one leap1 as it were1 the breech-loader is no new and sudden appearance4 ,in truth it is of great antiquity4 ,in the ,tower of ,london1 the ,woolwich ,museum1 and in the ,museum of ,paris1 may be seen hundreds of breech-loaders that were made centuries ago4 ,of course they were not made to use the percussion cartridge peculiar to many such guns of modern make1 nevertheless they were veritable breech-loaders1 and the real suggestors1 no doubt1 of the modern arm of that character4 ,in the ,museum of ,artillery1 at ,woolwich1 there is a breech-loading pierrier1 or paterera1 of the time of ,edward ,,iv4 7#adga74 ,it consists of a directing barrel1 terminating in a square bar or frame of iron1 and a separate loading chamber1 with handle1 which was fastened in its place for firing by an iron wedge4 ,there are also found in the museums many breech-loading pistols1 that were evidently in use about cotemporaneous with this gun4 ,the records kept at ,st4 ,etienne1 ,france1 show that the ,french monarch1 ,henry ,,ii1 shot with a breech-loading gun in #aedj4 ,and the ,english records show that the ,marquis of ,worcester took out a patent in that country for a breech action on the 8cut-screw0 principle in #affa4 ,a portion of the specification reads as follows3 8,an invencione to make certain guns or pistols which in the tenth part of one minute of an hour may be re-charged2 the fourth part of one turne of the barrell1 which remains still fixt1 fastening it as foreceably and effectually as a dozen shrids of any screw1 which1 in the ordinary and usual way require as many turnes40 ,there are several specimens of the breech-loader made on this plan1 now in the ,woolwich ,museum4 ,there are also other specimens1 on a plan entirely different1 made at a date but a little more recent1 for it seems that then1 as in modern days1 one invention was very apt to suggest another4 ,three years after the ,marquis of ,worcester had taken out his patent1 one ,abraham ,hill1 of ,london1 patented some six different systems of breech-loaders4 ,in his specification concerning one of them he says3 8,it is a new way of making a gun or a pistoll1 the breech whereof rises on a hindge1 by a contrivance of a motion under it1 by which it is also let down and bolted fast by one of the same motion40 ,this1 as will be readily seen1 was rubbing pretty close upon the breech-loader of the present day4 ,since the dates of the patents just referred to1 the breech-loading fire-arm is known to have been in uninterrupted existence2 but so strong was the current turned against it by popular prejudice1 that it was little known to the people in general4 ,a want of scientific training among the masses was the cause which held it back2 they were unable to clearly understand all the whys and wherefores connected with its workings1 and1 therefore1 rejected it on the plea that it was dangerous1 without really knowing whether it was or not4 ,great improvements in the breech-loader now succeeded each other with astonishing rapidity up to the time when ,m4 ,lefaucheux1 of ,france1 capped the climax by inventing the cartridge containing within itself the cap1 or means of igniting the charge4 ,this made it available as a sporting gun1 and hence promptly set it forward into public attention2 and finally1 after a score or so of improvements1 usually at the hands of the ,english1 into public favor4 ,it is1 at last1 the gun of the period1 and the old muzzle-loader1 with all its good qualities 7and they were certainly many71 is rapidly surrendering the field to the more successful candidate1 and retiring in the footsteps of its honored predecessors1 the wheel-lock and the flint-lock4 ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,,how ,,guns ,,are ,,made4 ,gunsmith--,gunmaker4--,the modern gunsmith is not necessarily a gunmaker1 but rather a repairer of guns that have happened to get out of order4 ,in earlier days the devotees to his calling may1 in their little shops1 have made guns entire1 but now1 if the gunsmith makes them at all1 that making consists in merely finishing up the parts and putting them together--generally making the stock entire4 ,all gun parts can now be bought as 8gunsmith's materials10 either finished or in the rough1 as may be desired4 ,they are made by a variety of workmen1 the business of each man being to make a single part1 and nothing more4 ,there is at present too much in a good gun to admit of all being made advantageously by one man2 he would need to be a kind of 8,jack-of-all-trades10 and1 like the traditional ,jack1 it is but reasonable to suppose that he would be really first-class at none4 ,in some of the large establishments where guns are made all these different workmen are employed1 hence such an establishment is really a collection of workers in many trades4 ,the gunsmith who has his shop for repairing purposes1 or for putting together materials under the name of gunmaking1 will not be specially concerned with reference to any of these trades2 still it is but reasonable to suppose that he would like to know something of how the implements1 or parts of implements1 that he will be constantly handling1 were put up2 and1 besides1 there will exist something akin to a necessity for his possession of such knowledge1 owing to the fact that his customers will often call upon him to answer many a question as to how this or that gun was made1 etc4 ,with this view of the case1 it is really necessary to give a brief outline of gunmaking1 following the work from the rough material to the final finish4 ,gun-,barrels--,best ,materials for4--,the barrels of the finest and best guns1 either ,damascus1 or other steel1 or iron1 are formed1 as made in ,europe and ,england1 of scraps of iron suited to the purpose1 and selected with great skill and the greatest possible care4 ,these scraps1 which are usually bought up about the country1 are placed in what is called a 8shaking tub0--a vessel which is violently shaken and rocked about by machinery or otherwise 7depending upon the particular locality7 for the purpose of scouring and brightening the scraps4 ,this done1 they are carefully picked over by adepts1 who cull out the unsuitable pieces4 ,so rigid is the culling that it often happens that out of a ton of scoured scraps not more than one hundred pounds weight of them are chosen as suitable for going into the best barrels4 ,among the scraps usually thought to be best are old chains that have been used for many years1 the wear and rust of time having left only the best elements of the iron4 ,the ,damascus steel1 which has attained to so high a reputation1 got it by being manufactured out of old coach springs4 ,of course it is not all made of coach springs now1 but it was in years ago2 agents then traveled all over the country hunting and buying them up1 paying a much higher price for an old broken spring than a new one would cost its owner4 ,on ,making ,gun-,barrels4--,the selected scraps to be worked into gun-barrel material are cut into small pieces and thrown into a furnace1 where they are exposed to intense heat until fused1 after which they are brought forth an adhering mass and placed under a hammer1 which drives them together and forges them into bars4 ,the bars are next rolled into thin plates1 and then cut into strips twelve inches long and six inches wide4 ,the very best guns are made of a combination of iron and steel4 ,both materials having been rolled and cut into sheets of exactly the same size1 these sheets 7one-fourth of an inch thick7 are piled upon each other alternately to the number of thirty1 and subjected to a welding heat2 they are then driven together under a five-ton hammer into a consolidated slab4 ,the slabs so formed are next worked down into one-fourth inch square rods4 ,the more the material is hammered and worked the better it is4 ,the rods are next twisted until they present the appearance of a strand of rope1 some rods being twisted to the right and others to the left4 ,two rods1 with opposite twist1 are heated to the welding degree1 placed upon each other1 and rolled together2 they are now in a narrow slab1 presenting that fine curl of 8grain0 peculiar to the ,damascus1 or that beautiful wavy figure peculiar to the laminated steel1 as the case may be4 ,the next operation is to coil one of these slabs around a mandrel in a spiral form1 and weld it securely under the blows of hand-hammers4 ,it is now a gun-barrel in the rough4 ,finishing and ,proving4--,the rough barrel goes from the welder to the borer1 where it is put through the process of 8rough boring40 ,from the 8rough borer0 it goes into the hands of the 8fine borer10 who bores it out smoothly and to near the size it is to be when finished4 ,another operator then takes it in charge and dresses it to smoothness externally1 then the 8tester0 takes it and dips it into strong acid1 which soon shows any imperfection in either twist or welding that might exist4 ,if not perfect1 it is sent back to be worked over2 if all right1 it passes to the next department1 where it is straightened inside4 ,this part of the work is governed entirely by the eye1 and hence demands the services of a workman of great skill1 and experience4 ,having been 8passed on0 by the 8straightener10 the barrel goes to the 8turner10 who turns it in a lathe until the outside is true and correspondingly straight with the interior1 and is of exactly the required weight4 ,if the arm is to be a double-barrel shot gun1 the barrel next goes into the hands of a workman who joins it to another barrel with the utmost nicety2 to attain which1 levels and other suitable instruments are brought into requisition4 ,like the man who straightens the bore1 the man who joins the barrels must be a workman of great skill4 ,the next operation is to braze on the 8lumps20 then1 next in order1 the ribs are put on4 ,now comes the 8proving40 ,the rear ends having been securely plugged1 they go to the proof department1 where is placed into each barrel fully four ordinary charges of gunpowder2 then1 atop of this1 a wad of strong brown paper1 rammed securely down1 then a leaden bullet large enough to exactly fit the bore1 and then another wad of brown paper4 ,the charge is fired1 and if the barrels stand the ordeal unfazed1 they are ready to be fitted to the action2 otherwise1 they go back to be worked over4 ,in some houses the 8proving0 is done before the barrels are joined together4 ,action1 ,stock and ,final ,finish4--,the 8action man0 now takes the perfect barrels in hand and performs his part of the work4 ,in the meantime the stock-maker has not been idle4 ,a stock is already in waiting1 and next must come a series of fittings of the most exquisite nicety1 until the gun is actually a gun and ready for its final test4 ,this is applied by the 8targeteer10 who passes upon it according to its merits4 ,if his report comes in favorable1 the gun goes to the proper department for final finish4 ,the stock is dressed up1 finished in oil or varnish and chequered1 and its mountings put on4 ,every piece of metal is polished and burnished to the highest possible degree1 and all the needed engraving is done4 ,next comes the case-hardening1 coloring1 and the browning or bronzing2 and this having been well and satisfactorily performed1 the gun is ready for market4 ,on ,making the ,rifle4--,the processes employed in making the modern rifle do not differ materially from those named in the foregoing4 ,of course there are some processes employed on the shot gun that are not called for in the manufacture of the rifle1 and some on the rifle not needed on the shot gun4 ,the general principle is the same1 however1 and therefore it is not necessary to consume time in further description4 ,the great care mentioned is only done to make a good gun2 only the cheap and inferior guns are pitched together in an easier and more irregular way4 ,but the gunsmith would not thank any one for a treatise on cheap and bad guns4 ,they are legion1 more's the pity1 and his extensive dealings with them will afford annoyance sufficient to do away with any desire on his part to fight his battles over in a book4 ,plain ,steel-,barrel ,guns4--,of course there are guns with 8plain steel barrels10 as they are called1 which pass muster as fair2 and the barrels of these are made by a process differing materially from that described in the foregoing2 all else connected with the making is the same4 ,these plain steel barrels are made of round bars of steel two inches in diameter4 ,the bars are first cut into lengths of nine inches each2 a hole or bore three-fourths of an inch in diameter is drilled through the centre4 ,they are now called moulds1 and the next step is to pass them through rolls1 which reduce them to the required size for barrels and stretch them out to the required length1 holding them1 at the same time1 in the proper shape1 externally4 ,having been thus rolled1 they are bored out internally1 turned and ground externally1 until they have attained to the shape and proportions of correctly-formed barrels4 ,after this comes the fitting up and 8proving10 as in the case of the finer guns4 ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,,guns ,,now ,,in ,,use4 ,guns ,defined4--,excepting the pistol1 and the mortar1 perhaps1 all fire-arms now in use are classed under the name of guns4 ,the cannon or artillery ordnance in all its sizes and forms1 is simply a large gun4 ,it is variously divided off1 according to character1 into heavy siege-guns1 field-pieces1 rifled-cannon and smooth-bores4 ,these again are sub-divided into a large number of different kinds1 as the ,armstrong1 the ,dahlgren1 the ,columbiad1 the ,paixhan1 the ,parrot1 the ,whitworth1 etc4 ,but with guns of this class the practical gunsmith will have nothing to do1 and hence it is but reasonable to suppose that he feels no particular concern about them4 ,it is with the small-arms that his concern will mainly lie1 and therefore from this page to the conclusion of this work the gun mentioned will be some instrument classing with the small fire-arms1 and liable to be brought to a gunsmith's shop for repairs4 ,the small arms1 or hand guns1 are muskets1 rifles1 carbines1 fowling-pieces and pistols4 ,these may be properly divided into three classes3 the flint-lock1 the percussion-lock and the cartridge breech-loader4 ,the ,old ,flint-,lock ,guns4--,of the old flint-locks1 only a few are now in existence within the ,united ,states4 ,here and there one has been kept as a kind of heirloom by some family1 and occasionally these drop in upon the gunsmith for repairs1 but not often4 ,they are more common along the ,mexican border in ,texas1 perhaps1 than in any other portion of the country4 ,a minute description of the old flint-lock-gun need not be given1 as1 in general characteristics it does not differ materially from all other muzzle-loaders4 ,the barrel is usually longer than that of the more modern gun2 and1 in the case of the rifle1 the stock 7all wood7 extends nearly to the muzzle4 ,it is what1 in later days1 when half-stocks had been invented1 was called a full-stock4 ,as already intimated the interior mechanism of the lock differs very little from that of the more modern cap or percussion-lock4 ,on the outside1 in place of the cap-hammer is a cock arranged with two lips for holding a flint4 ,the lips are brought together firmly upon the flint by means of a screw which passes down immediately back of it4 ,in the top of the lock-plate1 directly in front of the cock1 is set the priming-pan2 a small iron receptacle made to contain1 say the fourth of a teaspoonful of gunpowder4 ,when the lock is in position the butt or open end of the pan comes squarely up against the barrel of the gun where a small hole called the 8touch-hole0 communicates with the interior1 and with the charge1 when the gun is loaded4 ,over the priming-pan a cover fits nicely1 lying horizontally when the pan is closed1 and turning up at right angles on the edge nearest the cock1 and standing erect1 a small plate of steel1 immediately in front of the flint4 ,this cover1 with its vertical plate is called the frizzen4 ,it works on a hinge1 and is held into whatever position set1 by means of a small spring called the heel spring4 ,when the cock is set in motion by drawing upon the trigger and releasing the check to the mainspring1 the flint comes in contact with the steel plate of the frizzen1 throwing it back upon its hinge and scraping down its face directly towards the priming-pan4 ,as the frizzen flies back the pan is uncovered1 of course1 enabling the flint to end its journey directly in the priming powder of the pan4 ,in its scrape over the steel plate of the frizzen it causes many brilliant sparks of fire1 which descending with it into the priming sets off the charge4 ,the ,percussion-,lock ,gun4--,as has already been stated1 the immediate successor of the old flint-lock was the percussion or cap-lock4 ,while now far beyond its zenith1 it is still the prevailing gun in many portions of the country2 especially in out-of-the-way districts ,south and ,west4 ,in the oldest make of these guns a small plug of iron is screwed into the barrel at the point where the touch-hole of the flint-lock was located4 ,it is called the cylinder4 ,the end passing into the barrel is drilled to communicate with the powder-bed of the gun1 and with a cap-tube1 which is screwed into the cylinder1 to stand erect near the side of the barrel4 ,in more modern guns the cylinder has been discarded1 the tube going directly into the barrel and communicating with the powder-bed4 ,the oldest percussion-lock rifles are set in whole-stock1 on the plan of the flint-lock gun2 and on account of the fact that all the old-fashioned folks are not yet dead1 some factories put up new guns after the same model1 calling them ,kentucky rifles4 ,the stock reaches the full length of the barrel1 which is heavy and about four feet long4 ,it is octagon in shape4 ,but in most of the more modern rifles the barrel is shorter1 say from #cb to #cf inches in length1 and comparatively light2 and the stock extends only half the length of the barrel1 joining to a rib affixed to the barrel for the purpose of holding the ramrod-thimbles4 ,the 8patent-breech0 may be mentioned as another peculiarity of the percussion-lock gun1 since it was not known in the days ere the flint-lock had lost its prestige4 ,in those early days the breech end of the barrel was closed by a plug of iron1 screwed in and called the breech-pin4 ,from its upper side there extended backward along the stock a thin plate or strap1 through which screws passed at right angles to hold the barrel in place4 ,this method of securing the breech-end of the barrel into the stock has been done away with by the patent breech1 which secures it by means of a short hook on the end of the breech-pin2 or1 rather1 on the end of the short plug screwed into the barrel in place of the old breech-pin4 ,it is much more convenient than the old fashioned arrangement1 as it enables the barrel to be taken from the stock in a moment1 doing away with the labor of drawing the breech-pin screws4 ,on the ,muzzle-,loaders4--,the percussion-lock muzzle-loaders all work upon about the same principle4 ,the charge must go in at the muzzle and be put down to the breech4 ,in the case of army guns it is usually contained in a paper cartridge4 ,the soldier bites off the end of the cartridge in which the powder is inclosed1 to admit of a communication with the cap1 and then forces it down with the ramrod4 ,but in the case of rifles and fowling pieces1 or shotguns1 as the latter are most commonly called in this country1 cartridges are seldom employed4 ,in loading a rifle the powder is first measured in a 8charger10 and then poured down the barrel2 next comes the patch1 which is usually a piece of new and strong cotton cloth1 most commonly the kind known as white drilling4 ,this1 having been tallowed upon one side1 the tallowed side is spread over the muzzle of the gun1 and the bullet is pressed upon it into the muzzle1 the side from which the 8neck10 formed in moulding1 has been cut1 must be directly downward4 ,generally with the handle of a knife the bullet is pressed into the bore as far as it can be sent by such means2 then the patch is gathered around it and cut smoothly off exactly flush with the muzzle end of the barrel4 ,the next operation is to draw the ramrod1 throw the gun under the left arm1 with its breech resting upon the ground and its muzzle in front of the breast1 and then having set the butt end of the ramrod upon the bullet and grasped it in both hands1 the bullet is gradually1 and by main strength1 forced downward into position4 ,to make sure that it is entirely down the gun is taken from under the arm1 by some1 and set with the breech resting upon the ground more in front1 after which the ramrod is raised up a foot or so and pitched down the bore like throwing a pike4 ,if it does not bound back the bullet is not down solid upon the powder1 and the pitching is repeated until it does bound4 ,the upward bound of a few inches is sufficient to settle it that the bullet is down4 ,in the early times the bullet of the rifle was patched with dressed deer-skin exclusively4 ,charging the shot-gun muzzle-loader is an operation somewhat different4 ,first comes the powder poured down the bore from a charger1 as in the case of the rifle4 ,next comes a wad1 usually of paper1 which must fit tightly1 and be rammed down solid upon the powder4 ,following this comes the shot1 measured in the same charger1 or in one of the same capacity4 ,the measure of powder and the measure of shot usually made about the same4 ,over the shot is rammed a loose wad--it needs only to be tight enough to prevent the shot from rolling out when the muzzle of the gun happens to come lower than the breech4 ,disk-like wads of pasteboard or felt cloth are the latest invention4 ,the ,breech ,loaders4--,the breech-loading gun is now before the public in considerable variety2 and being really the gun of the day1 and1 consequently1 engaging the best thought of inventors1 it is constantly appearing in new forms4 ,this being the case1 about all that could be expected in this work1 is a mere mention of the general principles upon which it works4 ,taking a double-barrel shot-gun for illustrating these general principles1 it may be stated that the barrels are movable at the breech or rear end1 and butt upon the face of the standing breech peculiar to the latest and best muzzle-loaders4 ,the face of these barrels fits smoothly against that of the standing breech4 ,there is nothing in the way of a breech-pin to resist the backward force of the ignited powder1 or hold the barrels in place4 ,the hooks mentioned as peculiar to the patent breech muzzle-loader are not there--nothing at all like them4 ,but the barrels1 when put into place for shooting are held there by means of a solid piece of iron attached to them underneath1 called the 8lump40 ,to effect this1 it descends into an iron bed on the stock called the 8action10 its projections fitting into suitable recesses in the action and being held there by the agency of keys1 wedges1 bolts or grips4 ,there are many devices for gripping1 bolting or wedging up the gun1 as it is called2 and also many for attaching the barrels to the stock4 ,in all cases the barrels play upon a hinge pin1 which admits of their dropping down at the muzzle and rising at the breech1 the latter to reject the empty cartridge and receive the loaded one4 ,at every discharge the gun is opened and closed by throwing up the barrels for the purpose just named1 and then letting them down again into position for shooting4 ,the means by which this opening and closing is effected vary greatly in the guns of different makers4 ,variety of ,breech-,loaders4--,this gives the general idea of about all there is of it4 ,there are a few breech-loaders made in both this country and in ,europe whose barrels are fixed1 the cartridge being inserted through some other device2 and there are still a few others whose barrels slide forward or sideways in the stock to receive the load--do not tilt on a hinge-pin--but neither of these kinds are so common as the kinds just referred to4 ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,,pistols ,,now ,,in ,,use4 ,old-,style ,pistols4--,pistols1 the smallest of fire-arms1 were originally plain implements of a single barrel2 but1 as improvements advanced1 a second barrel was added to many of them1 presenting what is known as the double-barreled pistol4 ,some of these old-fashioned single and double-barreled pistols will still occasionally find their way into the shop of the gunsmith1 though their numbers1 as now in use1 are comparatively small1 especially the muzzle-loaders4 ,in rare instances a flint-lock 8horse pistol0 or holster may put in an appearance1 though none such are now on sale at any house dealing in fire-arms4 ,some few houses are still offering the old cap-lock army holster1 always a second-hand article that once belonged to the ,government1 and was bought up by dealers when the ,government had discarded it for the adoption of more modern and better arms4 ,a description of this kind of weapon is unnecessary as it is simply a small musket with side-lock1 and all on the usual plan1 differing only in being short and having a turned-down handle1 to be held in one hand1 instead of the usual breech4 ,the single or double-barrel muzzle-loaders1 outside the line of army holsters1 will usually have the central lock1 which is next to no lock at all2 simply a mainspring working in the handle and throwing the cap-hammer1 which is fitted in the middle of the piece immediately behind the breech-end of the barrel4 ,some very cheap pistols for boys are still made on this plan4 ,the ,derringer4--,the old ,derringer1 though not now much manufactured in this country1 is still among the people in considerable numbers4 ,it is a muzzle-loader1 with side-lock and full-stock in wood2 and1 by the way1 it is a very good pistol of its kind4 ,the ,pepper ,box4--,there are quite a number of little breech-loading cartridge-pistols1 with single barrels1 now in use1 but the pistol of the day is a repeater1 of which there are kinds in great variety4 ,one of the oldest and now rarest of these is the 8pepper-box10 so called4 ,it has a single barrel containing from five to seven bores1 which are loaded from the muzzle4 ,a tube for percussion caps communicates with each bore at the breech1 and upon these a hammer strikes1 having an automatic action1 rising up and striking in response to pressure upon a trigger underneath1 which pressure also revolves the barrel1 bringing the caps into proper position for receiving the blow4 ,it was never a popular pistol1 people objecting to a kind of way it had of sometimes letting off its seven charges simultaneously1 when the person operating it had intended to fire but one4 ,old ,colt's ,revolver4--,next among the repeaters1 in point of scarcity1 is the ,colt's revolver of the earliest patent4 ,it has a stationary single barrel and revolving cylinder1 the latter containing from five to seven chambers for receiving the charges4 ,it is not a muzzle-loader1 though the charges must be put into the chambers at the breech1 somewhat on the muzzle-loading plan4 ,it is fired by means of percussion caps4 ,the cylinder revolves1 throwing the chamber to be discharged into proper position at the breech of the barrel when the cap-hammer is drawn back4 ,though inconvenient1 compared to the cartridge pistol of more modern make1 the old ,colt's revolver is yet an excellent arm4 ,there are houses still making revolvers on the same plan4 ,sharp's ,four ,shooter4--,next to the old ,colt's revolver may be placed the ,sharp's four shooter4 ,it is a neat and strong-shooting1 little breech-loading pistol1 using a ,no4 #bb cartridge4 ,the barrel has four bores but does not revolve2 but the hammer has a revolving point1 for striking the cartridge1 which moves into proper position for a new discharge every time it is drawn back to full cock4 ,the barrel slides forward upon the stock for receiving new cartridges4 ,the ,breech-loading ,cartridge ,revolvers4--,next comes the regular breech-loading cartridge revolver1 which is the pistol now most common and most popular4 ,to attempt a detailed description of every style of this weapon would be to swell our book to unwieldy proportions1 and even were the multitudinous styles at present before the public described1 it would be impossible to keep pace with the number which would be constantly introduced4 ,but1 even were it possible to do so1 no good purpose would be subserved4 ,various as the styles appear1 they all embrace devices and combinations which are substantially covered by our several chapters1 and the intelligent workman will not require minute descriptions to recognize or understand the individual weapon when well grounded in a knowledge of the class of fire-arms to which it belongs4 ,it is our purpose to give such descriptions1 directions and illustrations as shall make everything sufficiently clear and explicit to enable the reader1 with careful attention thereto1 to handle successfully and satisfactorily any job likely to come to his hands4 ,,chapter ,v4 ,,on ,,general ,,gunsmithing4 ,the ,gunsmith and his ,trade4--,few trades present so little regular routine as does that of the gunsmith4 ,in most trades it is the same thing over and over again2 but1 with the exception of taking the gun to pieces and putting it together2 and1 perhaps1 of tempering1 case-hardening and the like1 the gunsmith may work regularly for a long time without being called upon to do precisely the same thing twice4 ,as a consequence1 the gunsmith must be merely an ingenious mechanic or worker in metals1 capable of thinking deeply and searching out causes and requirements--there is little need of his being anything more4 ,the gun1 in all its forms1 is only a machine1 and a simple one at that--so simple as to be easily understood by any one capacitated for making an intelligent study of machinery4 ,fitting up a ,shop4--,the specialties to claim the attention of the gunsmith in fitting up his shop if his means are limited may be few4 ,it will be about like fitting up the shop of any general worker in metals4 ,he will need a forge1 an anvil and a vise2 in a word he will need a light but complete set of blacksmith's tools1 to begin with4 ,this outfit will be his foundation1 so to speak2 and he can add to it such smaller tools as judgment and experience may suggest as wanted2 such1 for instance1 as a hand-vise or two1 cutting-pliers1 bending-pliers1 holding-pliers1 small files of various shapes1 small drills1 a screw-plate or two1 a few gravers1 and so on4 ,he might have many special tools1 such as could not be bought at the ordinary hardware store1 or at any house dealing in outfits for the general worker in metals1 but for ordinary repairing1 he will not have much need of them4 ,among the special tools that he will be compelled to have will be a rifle-guide1 a few sets of rifle-saws and a few mould-cherries4 ,these with proper instructions he can make himself if he finds he cannot buy them cheaper than he can make them4 ,there are a few specialties in the way of tools or machines for gunsmiths that are offered to the trade by houses dealing in gunsmith's materials1 and some of them may be found very useful as labor-savers1 but the gunsmith can get along without them if he does not wish to buy4 ,prominent among these is a mainspring-vise or clamp1 which has several advantages over the common hand-vise sometimes employed for clamping the mainspring4 ,it would be well to look after these things1 and to adopt them in every case where it appeared beyond question that they could be made to pay4 ,there is no occasion to speak against any of the specialties that may be presented to the attention of the trade--of their merits the party most concerned must be his own judge4 ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,,taking ,,apart1 ,,cleaning ,,and ,,putting ,,guns ,,together4 ,to ,take the ,gun ,apart4--,with the muzzle-loading guns now in common use this is an operation so simple as to be scarcely worthy a mention4 ,if the gun is an old-fashioned breech-pinned muzzle-loader1 the first thing is to push out the small wire pins or bolts which pass through the stock1 under the barrel1 and through the barrel-loops4 ,the next thing is to draw the breechpin screw2 this lets the barrel out of the stock4 ,if it is desirable to unbreech the gun1 it is done by clamping the breechpin in a vise1 and then turning the barrel by hand until it is screwed off the pin4 ,the patent-breech muzzle-loader comes apart the same way in every particular1 with the exception that there is no breechpin screw to draw2 the barrel can be easily lifted from the stock by simply raising the muzzle and unhooking the patent breech1 so soon as the pins or bolts before mentioned as holding it down have been removed4 ,the unbreeching is done at the vise much the same as in the other case4 ,to take apart the ordinary breech-loader1 begin by setting the hammer at half-cock4 ,open the lever1 then draw the bolt1 starting it with a tap from the handle of the screwdriver4 ,next detach the fore-piece1 and the barrel will come out without further resistance4 ,instructions to take down and assemble different kinds of breech-loading guns will be found in ,chapter ,,xl4 ,to ,clean the ,gun when ,apart4--,in olden times a bucket of water and a wisp of tow and a stout 8wiper0 had to be brought into requisition1 particularly for the interior of the barrel1 but now these things are mainly obsolete1 so far as relates to the outfit of the gunsmith4 ,the owner of a muzzle-loader1 who does not wish to remove the breechpin1 may still resort to the old plan of washing out the barrel1 though there is now really no necessity for it4 ,a little benzine poured down the muzzle1 after stopping the tube1 will do the work of cleaning effectually and in a few minutes4 ,let stand a short time1 then remove the plug from the tube and force the benzine out by running down a tow wad on the wiper--all the dirt will go out through the tube with it1 leaving you nothing to do but wipe the benzine from the bore with the tow4 ,in the case of a gun unbreeched1 or a breech-loader1 all that is necessary is to saturate a bit of cotton flannel with benzine and run it through the barrel a few times4 ,if the gun is a fine one1 well finished1 this process will leave the interior as shining and bright as a mirror4 ,with the same arrangement rub thoroughly any of the metal parts that happen not to be clean1 and all impurities will promptly leave them4 ,after this1 oil and wipe with a chamois skin1 and the work is done4 ,benzine may be had at any drug store at about the price of kerosene4 ,it is especially valuable as a gun cleaner for two reasons3 its peculiar fitness for detaching and carrying away dirt1 and its highly volatile properties1 which cause it to evaporate and entirely leave the metal in a short time after the application has been made4 ,its adoption has completely done away with the necessity of ever using a drop of water upon a gun1 in any case1 which is a matter of decided importance and advantage4 ,to ,put the ,gun ,together4--,with the muzzle-loaders the operation of putting together is simply a work directly in reverse to that of taking apart4 ,in case of the common make of breech-loaders a little more variation may be regarded as necessary4 ,take the grip of the stock in the left hand1 having the lever open4 ,hook on the barrel and turn the gun over with the hammers underneath1 still holding the stock at the grip4 ,the weight of the barrel will keep it in place4 ,with the right hand attach the forepiece and push in the bolt4 ,of course there are guns of peculiar make1 now and then to be met with1 which will require a different routine1 both in taking apart and putting together4 ,the details1 with full directions for taking down and assembling nearly all the breech-loading guns now made1 will be found explained1 with cuts of their mechanism and working parts1 in ,chapter ,,xlii4 ,a careful study will soon show the gunsmith how they come apart and how they go together4 ,the main thing is to work with extreme care1 and to never act until you clearly understand what you are doing4 ,,chapter ,,vii4 ,,tools ,,required ,,for ,,work1 ,,their ,,cost1 ,,etc4 ,given in alphabetical order are some of the tools that will be required by the gunsmith1 and in connection a very brief sketch is given of their approximate cost at hardware stores4 ,this list is intended only as a sort of guide in purchasing1 and is by no means intended as a complete list of what may be wanted4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #a4 ,the ,alcohol ,lamp4--,this lamp1 shown in ,fig4 #a1 is useful for small soldering1 tempering small taps1 drills1 etc4 ,glass or brass lamps with caps to prevent evaporation1 are sold for about #ej cents each4 ,alcohol ,lamp1 ,self-,blowing4--,this lamp1 shown in ,fig4 #b1 very convenient when continued blowing is required1 or when the 8knack0 of using the common plow-pipe cannot be readily acquired4 ,it may be used for soldering1 brazing small articles1 or hardening small tools1 ,size #b inches diameter and #e inches high1 #b2 about #c inches diameter and #f inches high1 #c4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #b4 ,anvil4--,an anvil weighing about ninety or one hundred pounds is heavy enough4 ,an ,eagle anvil of this weight will cost about #i or #aj4 ,the body of this kind of anvil is cast iron with steel face and horn4 ,price per pound is about ten cents4 ,barrel ,planes4--,these planes are now but little used1 except for stocking guns or rifles which are to be fitted with full-length stocks4 ,as this form of gun is somewhat going out of use1 so the stocker's planes are getting to be cast to one side4 ,they are made similar to a narrow rabbet plane1 but have the iron set close to the fore end4 ,any narrow plane with the fore end cut off to within half an inch of the opening in which the iron is placed will make a substitute for the stocker's plane4 ,the plane with round face is used to let in round barrels1 and one with a face equal in width to the sides of an octagon barrel1 for letting in such barrels4 ,a narrow plane is used to let in the ramrod1 by cutting a groove centrally in the bottom of the barrel groove4 ,the planes used are about four in number and the cost is about seven or eight dollars for the set as sold by dealers4 ,bevel4--,bevels for ascertaining and forming surfaces1 not at a right angle with some certain line1 can be had from one dollar upward in price4 ,the four inch is very good size4 ,the blade is held in position by a screw1 which forms part of the joint on which the blade turns4 ,shown in ,fig4 #c4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #c4 ,beveling ,clamp4--,these tools are generally made of about three sizes1 and are used for holding hammers when filing the bevel upon the sides4 ,they are also useful for holding lock-plates while filing the bevel on them4 ,in the vise1 work can only be conveniently held at a vertical or horizontal position2 this clamp is designed to furnish a means to hold it so as to file an angle of about #de degrees4 ,the tool is shown in ,fig4 #d4 ,it is held in the vise1 the shoulders resting on the vise jaws4 ,the spring between the jointed portions opens the tool when the vice jaws are opened1 the closing of the vise jaws1 of course1 closing the clamp upon the work that is placed in it4 ,the cost of these tools is from two to three dollars1 according to size and quality4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #d4 ,blacksmith ,tongs4--,blacksmith tongs can now be purchased of the hardware dealer4 ,the twelve-inch length are used for small work1 and the fifteen or eighteen for heavier work4 ,the twelve inch cost about #ej cents2 the fifteen1 #fb1 and the eighteen1 #ge cents each4 ,blow-,pipe4--,select a blow-pipe eight or ten inches in length1 with bulb or without1 as fancy may dictate4 ,if the end where the mouth comes in contact be silver or nickle-plated1 it will not taste of brass4 ,if it be difficult to get one plated1 tin it with soft solder by wetting with soldering acid1 and melting the solder on it by holding it over the lamp4 ,wipe off all superfluous solder with a rag4 ,the cost of plain eight or ten inch pipe is about #be cents4 ,add about one-third or one-half this price for pipes with bulb4 ,breeching ,taps4--,breeching taps ought to be obtained in pairs1 one to enter first and another to follow1 cutting a full thread at the bottom4 ,the prices per pair are for the inch #b4be2 inch1 #b4ej2 inch1 #b4ge4 ,for shot gun taps1 inch1 #c4jj2 inch1 #c4be4 ,a stock with dies will cost about a like sum1 but if the stock be fitted with only two sets of dies1 it will be much less4 ,the two threads used for rifle pins are #ad and #af to the inch4 ,the #ad and #af threads are not always adhered to4 ,a house in ,philadelphia say they use taps of #ah threads1 and a firm in ,pittsburg advertise taps of #bj threads per inch4 ,calipers and ,dividers4--,the best length of spring calipers and dividers1 for common bench work1 is about four inches4 ,the cost is from #ej cents to #a4ej1 according to quality4 ,chisels4--,the chisels1 as used by stockers1 are about half a dozen in number4 ,the narrowest is about one-eighth of an inch wide1 and the widest about half inch4 ,the set of six will cost about a dollar or a dollar and a half4 ,cutting ,pliers4--,a pair of cutting pliers1 six inches in length1 for cutting wire1 are indispensable4 ,select those of good quality4 ,poor pliers of this description are poor1 indeed4 ,the cost will be from #ge cents to #a4ej4 ,there are patented pliers of this kind in market that are recommended by many who use them4 ,drill ,stock4--,many kinds are in market1 from eight inches in length upward4 ,some are termed hand drills1 and the larger ones1 used against the breast1 are called breast drills4 ,the hand drills can be obtained as low as #ej cents and upward2 the price of breast drills from two to three dollars4 ,select a drill stock1 if one be required1 of a size and strength to suit the work to which it will be used4 ,file ,card4--,this is for cleaning filings1 dirt1 etc41 that may collect in files4 ,it consists of a strip of common cotton card tacked to a piece of wood conveniently shaped to handle4 ,it is also useful to clean the dirt and debris that will collect in screw taps4 ,the cost is about #be cents4 ,shown in ,fig4 #e4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #e4 ,fitting ,square4--,a fitting square with a four1 five or six-inch blade is required for many purposes1 not only for laying out iron stocks and marking off 8square work10 but other work that will come into a gun shop4 ,the gun squares used by carpenters and cabinet makers are very good4 ,if the stock be of iron1 or an iron frame filled with wood1 they are better than those with wooden stocks4 ,the cost of the six-inch may be about #ge cents4 ,the other somewhat less4 ,floats4--,for half-stocking1 the gouge and floats are used for letting in barrels4 ,the floats are made with a handle bent at an angle so that the hand will not hit the work4 ,the round float in form resembles a gouge with teeth like a coarse file cut on the rounded or bottom surface4 ,floats have been made by drawing the temper of a thick gouge and cutting teeth in it1 or taking a half-round file and drawing the temper1 and then cutting teeth on the round side4 ,floats for octagon barrels are flat1 like a chisel with teeth cut on one of the flat sides4 ,a thin float for letting in cross bolts is made in the same manner4 ,a float for fitting ramrods may be made of a steel rod with teeth cut on one end1 and a handle fixed to the other4 ,the bolt float will cost about #ej cents4 ,the rod float about #a4jj each for two sizes4 ,rifle1 two sizes1 about #a4be each4 ,shot gun1 two sizes1 about #a4ej each4 ,forge4--,little advice can be given respecting a forge4 ,some prefer the bellows forge1 while others select the fan blower4 ,the great requirement of the gunsmith is portability and occupying little space4 ,it should also be so enclosed as to prevent escape of dust1 and be free from accident of fire escaping if left with the fire lighted4 ,the cost of either form of portable forge will be from #bj1 upward4 ,glue ,pot4--,glue pots can be purchased with kettle fitting inside the pot and tinned on inside1 quart size about #ge cents4 ,a glue pot may be extemporized by selecting a common round fruit can1 cutting out the cover so as to allow a smaller can to fit and be held in place4 ,where economy is desired or a pot cannot be purchased1 the can glue pot will answer every purpose4 ,gouges4--,about six gouges are needed4 ,the sizes are about one-eighth for the smallest1 and increasing to three-quarters for the largest4 ,the cost of the set will be about one dollar and a quarter4 ,grind ,stone4--,an ,ohio stone1 about #bj inches diameter and #b inches thick1 mounted plain1 can be got up for about three or four dollars4 ,the iron fixtures will cost about a dollar1 and the stone a cent and a half or more per pound1 according to locality4 ,hack ,saw4--,a hack saw shown in ,fig4 #f1 with iron frame1 to hold a blade of eight or ten inches in length is required for cutting off barrels1 slotting screws1 cutting off rods of iron1 brass1 etc41 besides many other uses4 ,the eight inch with blade will cost about #a4be1 the ten inch about #a4ej4 ,if at any time a blade be broken they can be replaced at from #be to #ej cents4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #f4 ,hammers4--,in choosing hammers select the plain riveting hammer with cross pein4 ,the sizes generally most used are a four ounce1 a twelve ounce and a heavier one for use at the forge4 ,the four ounce costing about #cj cents1 the twelve ounce about #ej cents1 and the larger one according to weight4 ,in selecting hammers try the pein with a fine file to learn the temper4 ,in many cases the pein is left too soft for riveting steel4 ,handles4--,handles for files or screwdrivers are best when made of maple or apple wood4 ,maple is generally preferred4 ,some mechanics like soft wood1 as bass-wood or white birch1 for file handles1 but they are not so neat as those made of maple4 ,get those with ferrules made from sheet brass1 raised to form4 ,soft wood handles are worth about #be cents per dozen1 and the hard wood about #ej cents4 ,hand ,shears4--,for cutting sheet tin1 brass1 thin sheet steel1 small springs1 etc41 select a pair of hand shears about nine or ten inches in length1 costing about #a4ej4 ,with these1 common watch-springs can be cut lengthwise1 for making small springs for pistols4 ,the temper need not be drawn to cut them4 7,shown in ,fig4 #g47 ,illustration3 ,,figure #g4 ,hand-vise4--,a hand-vise for holding wire1 screws1 etc41 is needed4 ,about four or four and a half inches in length is most convenient4 ,for holding small wire1 cut a groove with a three-square file across the jaws toward the jointed end4 ,the cost will be from #ej cents to #a4jj1 according to quality4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #h4 ,iron ,clamps4--,a pair of malleable iron clamps 7shown in ,fig4 #h71 opening about four inches1 are useful for holding barrels into the stock during stocking1 holding a lock plate or strap in place for marking1 holding barrels together1 pieces of wood to be glued1 etc4 ,cost1 about #ej cents each4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #i4 ,mainspring ,vise4--,this tool 7shown in ,fig4 #i1 as clamping a spring7 is used to clamp the mainspring1 preparatory to removing it from the lock4 ,the hammer is set at full cock1 and the vise applied1 the screw tightened until the spring can be lifted from place4 ,in taking down double guns1 a vise for each lock spring is very convenient1 as the springs can then rest in the vise1 being cramped in place1 until ready to be put back into their respective places4 ,the cost of these vises is from #be cents to #b each1 according to quality and make4 ,for a left-side lock1 reverse the sliding piece1 so that the short end will bear on the bend of the mainspring4 ,marking ,gauge4--,a wood marking gauge is used for laying out lines parallel to a surface already formed4 ,if made of beech wood1 and plain1 it is generally sold for about #be cents each4 ,screw-cutting ,tools4--,a small die stock and dies1 with taps for lock work1 will cost about #b4ej4 ,a plate and ten taps1 suitable for all sizes of nipples1 ,english and ,german1 can be had for about #h4jj4 ,screw ,wrench4--,one of ,coe's patent wrenches1 about twelve-inch size1 costing about a dollar1 is the best make and the most durable size for all purposes4 ,this wrench is generally known as a 8monkey wrench40 ,soldering ,copper4--,a copper for soldering1 similar to the kind used by tinners1 is the kind to get4 ,a good size--,no4 #c--will weigh about a pound and a half1 costing about #ge cents4 ,screw-drivers4--,several screw-drivers are required1 and of several widths1 to fit different sized screw heads4 ,the narrowest may be about one-eighth inch1 and the widest1 say1 half inch to five-eighths inch4 ,if the mechanic desires to make these himself1 select octagon steel1 about one-quarter inch diameter1 draw one end to form the tang1 and the other to form the screw-driving part4 ,get good apple1 beech or maple wood handles4 ,let the length project about six or seven inches from the handle4 ,for the larger size screw-drivers get steel three-eighths diameter4 ,old files1 with the temper drawn and the points ground to shape1 make a passable screw-driver4 ,screw-drivers purchased at the store1 are generally not so satisfactory as those made from rods4 ,stub's round steel wire rod makes good screwdrivers ,pliers4--,three kinds of pliers are used by gunsmiths2 flat nose1 round nose1 and long flat nose or clock-makers' pliers4 ,six inch is about the right length for general use4 ,the round nose are useful for bending wire or metal into circular forms4 ,the long flat nose for holding work for soldering and handling work at the forge4 ,of the flat nose a five inch pair are useful in many cases4 ,the cost of pliers 7six inch71 is from about #ej cents to #a4jj per pair according to quality4 ,wing ,dividers4--,a pair of wing dividers1 about eight inches in length1 will be found the best size for general use4 ,the cost will be about #ge cents4 ,in purchasing see that the screw that binds the leg to the arc or wing is well fitted4 ,the thread1 either in the leg or the screw1 is sometimes stripped or worn out after a little using4 ,,chapter ,,viii4 ,,tools1 ,,etc41 ,,and ,,how ,,to ,,make ,,them4 ,the tools given in this chapter are such as are needed by the gunsmith1 and as directions are given for making them1 they can be made by almost any ingenious person during leisure hours4 ,the ,alcohol ,lamp4--,a lamp for this kind of work is easily made4 ,a common gum or mucilage bottle with a tube inserted in the cork has been used1 so has a small tin spice-box1 with a tube soldered into the cover4 ,a common copper or brass cartridge1 with the head filed off1 can be used for a tube4 ,a common oil can1 such as is used for oiling sewing machines1 with about half of the taper tube cut off1 will make a serviceable lamp4 ,these appliances are small1 unsightly and not to the taste of the mechanic who has a pride in the appearance of his tools4 ,the best form of lamp1 shown in ,fig4 #aj1 may be made by obtaining a small glass kerosene hand lamp1 which will cost only a trifle of two or three shillings4 ,cut off that portion of the burner above the screw1 where it is held to the socket that is fastened to the lamp4 ,remove the tube that holds the lamp-wick and also the little contrivance made to raise and lower the wick4 ,in the place where the tube was inserted1 generally a flat one1 file out with a round file1 a place which is large enough to receive a common brass #dd-;cartridge that has had the head cut off or removed by filing2 this is the tube for the wick4 ,fasten it in place with soft solder4 ,let this tube project a little into the lamp1 and solder it on the under side4 ,the greater portion of the tube projects above the place where soldered4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #aj4 ,the wick is made of common cotton wicking1 letting the end inside touch the bottom of the lamp4 ,fill with alcohol1 and the lamp is ready for use4 ,be careful that the wick is not too tight in the tube1 or in other words1 do not fill the tube with too much wick1 as it will prevent the alcohol from rising and the lamp from burning4 ,to prevent evaporation of the alcohol and to have the wick always ready for lighting1 cover the tube with a cap that fits it quite closely and has the upper end closed4 ,a brass cartridge that will go over the tube makes a good cover4 ,remove the primed cap or see that the cap has been exploded before using it to cover the lamp tube4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #aa4 ,a ,self-blowing ,lamp4--,a very good form of this lamp is shown in ,fig4 #aa4 ,it consists of a lamp enclosed in a kind of cup which has an open place at the bottom to admit the lamp and a small boiler1 fitting loosely1 and held by a flange on its top4 ,a small pipe is soldered to the top of this boiler and extends downward1 and has an end like a blow-pipe that passes through one side of the cup and ends near or a little above the lamp wick4 ,the operation is as follows3 the lamp being lighted1 heats alcohol placed in the boiler1 and the steam thereby made produces a jet that blows the lamp flame the same as is done with the mouth4 ,the size of the cup may be from three inches to three and a half in diameter1 and about five inches high4 ,the opening at the bottom may extend about half of the height4 ,the lamp is made of less diameter than the interior of the cup to admit of moving to get a good flame from the blow-pipe4 ,the lamp may be #a inches in diameter and an inch high4 ,the boiler is about two inches high and has the bottom made a little convex1 as shown by dotted lines1 and is some smaller than at the top where a flange is formed to admit of its resting on the top of the cup4 ,the top of the boiler is also convex1 and has a short tube in which a cork is fitted1 for the purpose of filling it4 ,the blowing tube is about three-sixteenths of an inch in diameter4 ,there is a long slot in the cup near its handle which readily admits of its being put in position for blowing4 ,there are several small holes near the top of the cup to insure draft to the lamp1 and there is a large hole about an inch in diameter opposite the end of the blow-pipe through which the flame issues where the work is held4 ,for silver soldering1 small brazing1 tempering1 or any similar small work1 this lamp is most excellent4 ,to make the small blowing-pipe1 drill a smooth hole through a piece of iron or steel and ream out one side of it4 ,cut a strip of thin copper or soft brass of a width just enough to fill the hole if it were made into a tube4 ,point one end of the strip and roughly form it into a tube1 insert in the hole and pull it through4 ,or the strip can be rolled around a piece of iron wire forming it to a tube by hammering4 ,soft solder it after being formed to shape4 ,breech ,wrenches4--,in many shops the monkey wrench is made to do duty in removing breech-pins1 but at the expense of marring the pin where the wrench engages it4 ,if many guns with breech-pins like those used in army guns are handled1 it is worth while to have solid wrenches forged of iron like ,fig4 #ab4 ,the length may be about fifteen inches1 with an opening to fit the shoulder of the breech-pin4 ,the width at this place may be about one and a half inches2 thickness1 about half an inch2 diameter at end of handle1 about three-quarters of an inch1 and at the small portions near the centre1 about half an inch4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #ab4 ,a wrench for removing patent breeches or nuts from double guns is made like ,fig4 #ac4 ,it consists of a steel bar about fifteen or sixteen inches long and about three-quarters of an inch diameter4 ,at a little to one side of the center is fastened a steel collar that has four projections made at one end4 ,a similar piece is fitted opposite to it1 but is made to move back and forth to fit the work by means of a screw that is formed behind where it is fitted4 ,a slot is made in the extension of the piece and a key fitted to prevent its turning around as the nut is turned to advance it toward its fellow piece4 ,the only substitute to answer for this tool is to file down the jaws of a monkey wrench so that they will turn between the extensions of a patent breech while the first breech is being removed4 ,this is a poor substitute1 as there is only one handle to turn with1 and when force is applied to remove the breech it does not have the force applied equally to each side as in the other kind of wrench1 consequently it is not as effective nor so easy to remove the breech4 ,if an extension to form another handle could be improvised it would make it much better4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #ac4 ,the ,bit ,stock4--,even if the gunsmith have a lathe there is much work that can be done to advantage with a common bit-stock4 ,but as the drills and tools used in the lathe generally have round shanks by which to hold them in the chuck1 the square hole where bits and tools are held in the bit stock must be filled by brazing or soldering a piece of iron into it and boring a hole to fit the shank of the lathe tools4 ,it is advisable to have these shanks about seven-sixteenths diameter1 as explained under the heading 8,shanks of ,tools40 ,in holding small drills made of steel wire or twist drills a small drill chuck must be fitted to the bit stock4 ,a small solid chuck with a quarter inch hole may be made with a shank to fit the seven-sixteenth hole4 ,a set screw must be fitted to hold the shanks of the two sizes mentioned4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #ad4 ,bottoming ,tools4--,bottoming tools are used for letting in locks1 cutting out for escutcheons1 and are useful in other places where a chisel cannot be made to operate4 ,the form of this tool is shown in ,fig4 #ad4 ,it consists of a square or round shank about three-sixteenths or a quarter-inch in diameter and about six inches long4 ,at one end a wooden handle is attached1 and the other end is bent at an angle which is about half an inch or perhaps a little more1 and on this angle is another one turned parallel with the shank and which is about three-eighths of an inch long4 ,this is the cutting end and is fashioned like the cutting edge of a chisel1 and is about a quarter of an inch wide4 ,the bottom side1 as it would be held for use1 is ground flat and the upper side bevelled like a chisel4 ,the cutting edge may be square or rounded to suit round places as letting in the bridle of a lock4 ,the size given is that generally used1 but if it be made about twice this size it will be found very useful in letting in octagon rifle barrels2 if the tool be made larger and hollow like a gouge it is very useful in letting in round gun barrels4 ,in letting in break off straps it will be found to take the place of a chisel to some advantage4 ,chequering ,tools4--,the tools used for chequering are very simple4 ,imagine a small saw1 or rather two small saws about one inch or more long1 made at the end of a straight steel shank4 ,the form is given in ,fig4 #ae4 ,the double saw can be made by filing it as one thick saw and then cutting a groove lengthwise with it4 ,in using1 one blade first forms a groove and the other blade works the next cut2 as the first cut is finished1 another mark is being made while so doing4 ,this insures equal width of the cuts4 ,care must be exercised in using them so as not to tear the wood4 ,a fine cut1 sharp edged1 three square or a small half round file may be used to finish the work if desired4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #ae4 ,nipple ,wrenches4--,two forms of nipple wrenches are used1 one for square and the other for two-sided nipples4 ,the most serviceable of these are made from a straight rod of steel1 with a cross handle and an opening at the opposite end to correspond with the square on the nipple4 ,for the two-sided1 a hole to receive the round part of the nipple where the cap goes on1 may be drilled in a rod of steel and a slot filed across to receive the shoulders of the sides4 ,the square shouldered kind must have a hole drilled of the diameter of the square1 and then being heated a square punch of the size of the square is driven in4 ,the nipples used for ,government or military arms have the squares larger than sporting guns1 and the wrenches are generally made of a flat piece of steel with a square hole made through from side to side at one end and squared to fit the tube4 ,when made1 harden and draw to a blue color for temper4 ,portable ,forge4--,the following description of a 8home made0 portable forge shown in ,fig4 #af is given by a contributor to the ,blacksmith and ,wheelwright3 8,in size it is two feet square and three feet high2 it is made entirely of wood2 the bellows are round and are sixteen and a half inches in size1 covered then with the best sheep skins4 ,the bed of the forge consists of a box six inches deep4 ,it is supported by corner posts1 all as shown in the sketch4 ,through the centre of the bottom is a hole six inches in diameter for the tuyere2 this is three inches in outside diameter1 and is six inches high4 ,the bed is lined with brick and clay4 ,it does not heat through4 ,the bellows are blown up by means of two half circles with straps from a board running across the bottom1 all of which will be better understood by reference to the sketch4 ,in addition to protecting the bed by brick and clay1 the tuyere is set through a piece of sheet iron doubled and properly secured in place4 ,the hood which surmounts the forge may be made out of old sheet iron1 and will be found sufficient for the purpose4 ,the connection between the tuyere and bellows is a tin pipe40 ,illustration3 ,,figure #af4 ,vise ,appendages4--,the best vise for general use is one made by ,c4 ,parker1 ,meriden1 ,conn41 and is termed a 8swivel0 vise4 ,to the bench is attached a round plate of iron1 and on this plate the vise turns to right or left as may be desired4 ,it is held in position by screwing up a nut by means of a handle underneath the bench4 ,the jaws are of steel1 and a small projection back of the jaws1 formed like a small anvil1 is very convenient for bending work or to lay work upon for cutting1 working with prick punch1 etc4 ,the width of jaws of ,no4 #bb1 the size that is most convenient1 is three and five-eighths inches1 the weight about thirty-five or forty pounds1 and the price about eight dollars1 or perhaps a little more4 ,this vise is shown in ,fig4 #ag4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #ag4 ,as the jaws of the vise where the steel faces come together are cut like a file and tempered1 they will necessarily mar or bruise the work4 ,pieces of brass or copper must be bent so as to be retained in place and at the same time cover the file-like surface of the jaws4 ,pieces of leather1 common belt leather1 upon which a little beeswax has been spread1 may be placed between the jaws1 and by forcing them together with the screw the leather will be retained in place4 ,in holding barrels1 stocks1 and for stocking a fixture made like the cut1 ,fig4 #ah1 is best4 ,two pieces of thin board1 or even two pieces of a wide barrel stave may make it4 ,the opening is for the purpose of 8straddling0 the square box of the vise that encloses the screw4 ,nail a piece of wood about an inch and a half thick across the bottom part1 before the opening is made1 and also nail a thin piece across the top of the pieces1 being careful to sink the nail heads to as to not mar the work4 ,the top ends of the fixture must come even with the top of the vise jaws4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #ah4 ,for holding screws without damaging the heads use a pair of false jaws made of cast brass1 like those shown in ,fig4 #ai4 ,the heads being held in the indentations formed along the upper edges of the fixture4 ,for holding rods or small square pieces without injury a similar pair of false jaws are made which are shown in ,fig4 #bj4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #ai4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #bj4 ,for holding articles that are tapering a fixture is required like that given in ,fig4 #ba4 ,the yoke clasps the neck of the vise1 and is held in place by a set-screw4 ,the upright pin is received in the yoke by turning on a screw cut for the purpose1 and by turning this up or down1 the triangular piece at the upper part is made to accommodate itself to the height of the vise4 ,the back angular corner of this piece has a bearing against the jaw of the vise1 and the opening made between the other jaw of the vise and the front of this angular piece will be the same as the piece of work that is held between the two4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #ba4 ,shanks of ,tools4--,the best two sizes for shanks of tools are about seven-sixteenths and about quarter-inch4 ,two solid chucks1 fitted with set-screws1 may be made for the lathe1 and they will be found sufficient for all kinds of work4 ,if half-inch octagon steel be used for the larger size1 a light chip turned off for about an inch and a quarter1 or an inch and a half1 will make the shank4 ,from this size steel may be made large drills1 reamers1 countersinks1 bullet cherries1 etc4 ,the shanks of many other tools may be made to this standard4 ,when a bit stock is fitted to hold this size of shank1 the tools may be used either in the lathe or by hand with the bit stock4 ,octagon steel1 a quarter-inch in diameter1 may be used for smaller tools1 or round steel rod of this size may be employed4 ,for small drills and tools1 taps1 etc41 it will be found very convenient4 ,no turning is necessary to fit to the solid chuck4 ,the common cheap bit stock1 made from round steel1 may be selected1 and the square hole filled with a piece of iron and then brazed to make it solid4 ,a hole is then drilled to fit the seven-sixteenths shank4 ,a solid chuck is to be made to fit this1 and drilled with a quarter-inch hole to fit the smaller sized shanks4 ,this solid chuck will also fit the chuck for the lathe4 ,if barrel boring tools1 quick boring reamers1 be made with the larger sized shank1 they can be used both in the lathe and with the bit stock4 ,,chapter ,,ix4 ,,the ,,work ,,bench4 ,material for the ,work ,bench4--,the first thing to do in fitting up a shop is to put up a work bench4 ,do not make a rude affair of an unplaned plank and a rough board1 but let it be seen that you fitted up your bench for use1 and at the same time sought to have it neat and durable4 ,a plank two inches thick is heavy enough1 yet in some respects it is light enough2 for the front portion of the bench twelve or fourteen inches is a good width4 ,pine wood makes a very good bench1 but as it is soft1 it will absorb oil1 and in time will become black and dirty4 ,as a remedy for this1 give it two or three coats of shellac varnish4 ,the best bench is made from a hard or sugar maple plank that has been well seasoned and has been planed true in a planing machine4 ,ash wood does very well1 so does beech4 ,oak is not good2 it absorbs grease and dirt readily1 and if struck much with a hammer will soon show splinters1 the fibres of the wood easily separating by the blows4 ,a hard maple plank has one advantage2 after being discarded as a bench1 it will make good rifle stocks2 the years of use will so season it that it will be valuable4 ,for that part of the bench--that is1 back of the two-inch plank--use a board ten or twelve inches wide4 ,select pine or any other kind that fancy may dictate4 ,calculate the plank and board so that the width of the bench will be twenty-two or twenty-four inches4 ,how to ,make the ,work ,bench4--,for supports for the bench use #b #d inch studding1 such as carpenters use in house building4 ,pine1 oak or any other material will answer4 ,plane smooth on all sides4 ,for each support cut three pieces2 two of the height of the bench1 and one about an inch less than the width1 so that when the bench is made the plank in front projects an inch or so in front of the supports4 ,as the short piece on which the bench rests is four inches wide1 cut away half of the thickness of the uprights of this width at the upper end1 and cut enough in length to receive the short piece1 when it is halved together--as is the term used--thus making it four inches thick when put in place4 ,fasten with nails or screws--the latter being the best fastening4 ,to keep these uprights steady1 nail a piece of board about three inches wide1 and about twelve inches from the bottom1 from front to the rear upright4 ,on these pieces a board or two may be placed1 with the other end resting upon a neighboring support1 and it forms a convenient shelf upon which to place boxes and other things that will soon accumulate in any shop4 ,the height of bench from the floor may be about two feet and ten inches and a half4 ,this will be found to be the most convenient height4 ,putting the ,vise in ,place4--,in putting the vise in place1 fix it on the bench far enough in front so that if a gun stock or barrel were held upright in the jaws it will not touch the bench4 ,if there be a window in front1 put it a little to the left of the window4 ,the light will then shine more on the right side of the vise1 and consequently it will be more easy to distinguish lines or marks that may be made on work held in the jaws1 as it is more convenient to look on the right side of work to see what is being done than on the left4 ,the height of the vise at the top of the jaws should be on a level with the elbow of the person who is to work at it4 ,in no instance try to work with the jaws of the vise higher than the elbows as the workman stands erect before it4 ,the reason is this3 as the workman grasps the file handle in the right hand and the point of the file in the left1 the arms are in a natural position1 and can be thrust forward and brought back in a horizontal line4 ,if the elbows were to be raised from the natural position the horizontal forward and back motion could not be made with facility4 ,place for ,drawer4--,a few inches to the right of the vise is the best location for a drawer4 ,this is generally opened or drawn out with the right hand1 and when so placed can be readily opened with that hand without stepping to one side4 ,the ,gun ,brace4--,a gun brace1 as shown in ,fig4 #bb1 is made from a piece of inch and a half or two inch plank1 with its upper edge of a height about an inch less than the height of the vise jaws4 ,it is hinged or pivoted by a single screw passing through the end of the bottom extension1 this screw passing into the bench1 the brace turning freely upon it4 ,it can be swung around back out of the way1 and when needed for use is turned in front1 and is ready to support a barrel or gun stock which is held in the vise4 ,this brace is put to the right of the vise1 but if another one like it is put in the left side it will be found useful at times4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #bb4 ,in cutting out gun-stocks from the plank1 many times pieces of just the right form for these braces will be found among the 8scraps0 that will be made4 ,the shape is of little moment so long as they are of the proper height and have an extension through which to put the pivot screw4 ,to ,deaden the ,noise of ,hammering4--,in shops1 especially if the work-room be in an upper story1 to deaden the noise of hammering1 etc41 put pieces of rubber under the legs of work benches1 the feet of lathes1 anvil-block1 etc4 ,if rubber cannot be obtained1 any woolen texture as felt or thick loose-made cloth may answer the purpose1 but not with so good results as the rubber4 ,the anvil may be set in a tub made by cutting off the top of a barrel to the right height and filling it nearly full of sand or earth4 ,,chapter ,x4 ,,on ,,working ,,in ,,iron4 ,hand-,forging4--,two rates of heat figure in this operation4 ,if the object is merely a smoothing of the surface of the iron1 the 8cherry-red heat10 so-called1 is the rate wanted4 ,the work of smoothing is performed by striking lightly and evenly with the hand-hammer1 until the desired condition is secured4 ,the same degree of heat is employed where hammer-hardening the iron is one of the objects to be obtained2 in this case the blows with the hammer must be heavier than in the case first named4 ,if the forging is to extend to a material change in the shape of the iron1 the rate of heat must be much higher2 it must be increased to what smiths call the 8white flame heat40 ,the hammering must be much heavier1 of course2 if the piece is large a sledge-hammer must be brought into requisition4 ,but the gunsmith will seldom have work heavy enough to demand the aid of an assistant with a sledge-hammer4 ,welding4--,the 8welding0 or 8sparkling heat0 is required in this process1 which is a higher degree of heat than either named in the forgoing4 ,in securing this heat1 the metal is brought nearly to a state of fusion2 which condition is made known by its sparkling1 and presenting the appearance of being covered with a glaze1 or a fresh coat of varnish4 ,so soon as the two pieces of iron to be welded together have both attained to this necessary degree of heat1 they are taken from the fire with the utmost dispatch1 the scales or dirt which would hinder their incorporation scraped off1 placed in contact at the heated point1 and hammered until a union has been effected1 and no seam or fissure remains visible4 ,if the first effort fails to unite them sufficiently1 they must be reheated and rehammered until the desired end is secured4 ,the fire for welding should be free from sulphur2 and the iron1 while heating1 should be taken out now and then and sprinkled over at the point of greatest heat with powdered glass1 or with powdered borax4 ,a small proportion of sand or powdered clay is sometimes mixed with the borax4 ,these applications tend to prevent the iron from running or burning1 and they are supposed to assist the adhesion when the two pieces are brought together in the act of welding4 ,hardening ,iron by ,hammering4--,iron may be hardened to the character of a pretty fair spring metal by simply hammering it thoroughly while in a cold state4 ,many of the cheap spiral springs in use1 as those attached to small bells for the purpose of imparting a vibratory motion1 are hardened or stiffened in this way4 ,they are first cut from soft sheet-iron and then hammered into the required hardness4 ,some heat to a cherry red and hammer to and after entire coldness4 ,case-,hardening4--,the various parts of gun mountings1 such as guards1 heel plates1 etc41 and the different parts of locks1 such as hammers1 tumblers1 triggers and plates1 as received by the gunsmith from the manufacturer or dealer in such articles1 are generally in the rough or partially finished condition4 ,many gunsmiths1 particularly those in the country1 where there is more or less a class of cheap work1 finish up these parts with a file and a little hand polishing1 and when the work is put together hand it over to the customer4 ,not only tumblers and triggers1 but even sears and tubes are finished up in this manner4 ,as these parts are almost always made of soft iron1 the result is they soon wear and have to be repaired4 ,the gunsmith who does good work will thoroughly case-harden the parts when they are fitted and finished1 and by so doing will turn out a really good piece of work that will wear as well as hardened steel4 ,why the majority of the trade do not case-harden their work cannot very well be explained1 unless they are ignorant of the process or do not care to be put to the trouble of doing it4 ,it is true it may be made a tedious job or a quick and easy one4 ,some gunsmiths1 when such work is finished1 heat it red hot1 smear it with prussiate of potash or cyanide of potassium1 and while hot1 plunge it into cold water1 letting it chill4 ,this produces a superficially hardened surface that is not 8skin deep10 and as soon as this surface becomes abraded will wear away rapidly4 ,if the case-hardening of the expert manufacturer be examined1 it will be observed that the surface of such work has a fine grayish appearance1 and in many places mottled with colored tints that are pleasing and beautiful to the mechanical eye4 ,it will be further observed that the hardening is of such depth that it will wear for a long time4 ,in fact it will wear better than hardened steel4 ,the condition of the material is that of a hardened steel surface stretched over and shrunk upon the iron body of the work4 ,it is stronger than steel1 for it has the tenacity of iron for its interior4 ,it has the advantage of steel1 inasmuch as it may be bent when cold to a limited degree1 and when so hardened will not break as readily as steel4 ,this property of bending is not confined to all articles1 as they may case-harden entirely through1 and then they will be very brittle and easily broken1 but by drawing them to temper after hardening1 in the same manner as a tool is drawn to temper1 they may be of any hardness desired4 ,a good way to ,case-,harden4--,the easiest and perhaps the best way to case-harden gun work is to have a number of short pieces of common gas pipe1 such as will be adapted to the size or quantity of the work1 and have one end of these pieces securely plugged or closed4 ,one way will be to heat the pipe and close by flattening the end with a hammer on the anvil1 but it is a 8slouchy0 way of doing it4 ,a neater way is to have a gas fitter cut a thread in the pipe and then screw in a plug1 such as are used to close ends of gas pipe2 if such cannot be obtained1 drive in a cast-iron plug and upset the end of the pipe so that it will not readily come out4 ,in these pieces of pipe place the work1 packing it well with good1 fine bone-dust1 such as is used by farmers for fertilizing land4 ,be careful to so pack that the different pieces of work will not touch each other4 ,stop the open end of the pipe with a cover1 but in such a manner as to be readily opened2 place the pipe and its contents in a good fire1 letting it remain at a red heat for fifteen minutes or more1 dependent upon the thickness of the articles or the depth they should be hardened4 ,remove from the fire and quickly empty the contents of the pipe into a pail of cold water4 ,if pieces of gas pipe cannot very well be obtained1 thimbles from old carriage hubs may be used instead4 ,plug up the small end1 fit a cover to the large end and use as if it were gas pipe4 ,as these thimbles are made of cast iron they will not bear the rough usage nor the heat that wrought iron will withstand4 ,common cast malleable iron makes the best receptacles to contain work for case-hardening4 ,articles of malleable iron and cast iron are as easily case-hardened as wrought iron4 ,a poor quality of steel is benefited by the operation1 as the metal imbibes carbon in which it was before deficient4 ,material for ,case-,hardening4--,for case-hardening1 bone-dust is the article most readily obtained and it is clean and neat to use2 but it will not produce the mottled tints that charred or burned leather will give4 ,the leather may be prepared by cutting up old shoes or boots1 putting them in an old pan and setting the mass on fire4 ,let it burn until it is a charcoal that will readily crumble in pieces by using a little force4 ,grind this charcoal to a fine powder by pounding in a mortar or by running it through an old coffee or spice mill4 ,pack the work with the powder1 the same as bone-dust4 ,bone-black may be used the same as bone-dust1 but it is not very satisfactory in its results4 ,it is also dirty to use and to have around a shop4 ,ivory dust will also answer the same purpose as bone-dust4 ,gun guards1 straps1 and long pieces of work will become shorter by case-hardening1 and it is best not to fit such pieces into the stock until after they are hardened4 ,if it be desired to have a portion of the work left soft and the other parts hardened1 securely cover the places to be left soft1 with a coating of moist clay1 and this will prevent the hardening material from coming in contact1 and1 consequently1 it will have no opportunity to absorb carbon and harden when put in the cold water4 ,it may also be observed that articles that are case-hardened will not rust so readily as those not so treated4 ,if the articles be quite thin and there be danger of their cracking by sudden chilling1 the water may be warmed a little1 or a film of oil may be spread on the water which will tend to prevent a too sudden contraction of the articles while cooling4 ,if it be desired to have the work present the colors or mottled tints as seen on some kinds of case-hardened gun work1 the surface of the work before being put in the receptacles containing the burnt leather1 must be nicely polished and then buffed or burnished4 ,the higher the finish the more brilliant will be the colors4 ,in using prussiate of potash to case-harden1 the potash must be finely powdered1 the work heated and dipped in1 or if the work be large the potash must be spread over it4 ,the work must be hot enough to fuse the potash1 and if it become somewhat cold by removing from the fire it must be reheated1 removed quickly from the fire and quenched in cold water4 ,another way to ,case-,harden4--,collect such articles of animal origin as cows' horns1 or hoofs of either cows or horses1 or leather trimmings from about the shoe-shops1 or old cast off boots or shoes1 and burn them until sufficiently charred to admit of being easily pounded into a powder4 ,having finished up the article to be hardened1 ready for the final polish1 place it in an iron box1 and surround it completely on all sides by a packing of the powder4 ,pour into the box1 until the powder is made moist1 a saturated solution of common salt in urine4 ,next close the box and seal it until airtight1 with wet and well-worked clay1 then put it into the furnace and blow up gradually until heated to a cherry red4 ,don't run the heat any higher1 but hold it at that about five minutes1 then take out and plunge at once into the slack-tub4 ,by this means a piece of soft malleable iron is rendered as hard as hardened steel4 ,some workmen contend that the salt solution is of no particular importance--that just as good results will come of packing in the animal charcoal alone4 ,the iron box1 though very convenient when a good deal of case-hardening is to be done1 is not an absolute necessity4 ,if the article1 surrounded by the animal charcoal1 is incased in a ball of stiff and well-worked clay1 and then exposed to the proper heat and slacking1 the results will be the same as if heated in an iron box4 ,another ,formula4--,in earlier times1 when guns were more in use than either agricultural or mechanical implements1 and there was a gunsmith's shop at almost every cross-road1 they had a way of case-hardening that was much more simple than either of the foregoing1 and yet quite effectual4 ,scraps of old leather1 as cut from old boots or shoes1 were tightly wrapped and tied around the piece of iron to be made hard1 to the extent of several thicknesses4 ,around this was placed a layer of sand and salt in equal proportions1 to the thickness of half an inch4 ,the sand and salt was dampened with water to make it stick together4 ,a layer of plastic clay1 an inch in thickness1 was worked around the whole1 and the ball1 so made1 was exposed to heat at about the cherry-red degree1 sufficiently long to consume the leather1 when it was dropped suddenly into the slack-tub4 ,still ,another ,formula4--,make a powder of pulverized prussiate of potash1 sal-ammoniac and saltpetre in equal parts4 ,heat the iron to cherry-red and sprinkle thoroughly on all sides with the powder1 then immediately plunge into the slack-tub4 ,some smiths contend that the pulverized prussiate of potash1 used in the same way1 is entirely effectual without the other ingredients4 ,to ,chill ,cast ,iron4--,make a powder by pulverizing together1 salt1 #b lbs42 saltpetre1 lb42 alum1 lb42 ammonia1 #d ozs41 and salts of tartar1 #d ozs4 ,heat the iron to cherry-red1 sprinkle thoroughly with the powder and then plunge into cold water4 ,another ,mode4--,make a solution by dissolving in #aj gallons of soft water1 salt1 #a peck2 oil vitriol1 pint2 saltpetre1 lb42 prussiate of potash1 lb41 and cyanide of potassium1 lb4 ,heat the iron to cherry-red and plunge at once into the cold solution4 ,this makes cast iron hard enough to cut glass1 and is the method usually resorted to for hardening the cheap cast-iron glass cutters1 now so common on the market4 ,to ,soften ,wrought ,iron4--,heat the iron with a slow blast to a dark-red1 then pour upon the burning coals half a pint of fluoric acid4 ,keep up the blast gently1 without increasing the degree of heat1 until all sign of the acid has disappeared1 then lay out the iron to cool gradually of itself4 ,alloy for ,filling ,holes in ,iron4--,melt together nine parts lead1 two parts antimony and one part bismuth4 ,pour into the hole while in a molten state1 or drive in while the iron is somewhat hot4 ,this alloy possesses the peculiarity of expanding as it cools1 consequently the plug tightens as its temperature falls4 ,to ,harden ,iron for ,polishing4--,pulverize and dissolve the following-named articles in one quart of boiling water3 blue vitriol1 #a ounce2 borax1 #a ounce2 prussiate of potash1 #a ounce2 charcoal1 #a ounce1 and common salt1 pint4 ,add to this #a gallon raw linseed oil4 ,having finished up the article ready for polishing1 heat it to a cherry-red1 and plunge into the mixture2 a rapid stirring of the mixture should be going on at the time when the plunge is made4 ,this preparation hardens the iron to such a degree that it takes and retains polish almost equal to the best of steel4 ,,chapter ,,xi4 ,,on ,,working ,,in ,,steel4 ,hand-,forging ,steel4--,in the main this does not differ materially from the same work in iron4 ,special care must be exercised to have the fire clear of sulphur1 hence charcoal is the best fuel to use4 ,in cases where the use of bituminous coal cannot be avoided1 the fire should be blowed up for several minutes before putting in the steel1 to drive off the sulphur4 ,steel to be forged should not be heated to so high a degree as is employed for iron2 for ordinary light work a little above a cherry-red is enough4 ,it does not work well under a high degree of heat2 and1 to make amends1 it can be worked much colder than iron4 ,in fact1 it is always best to hammer it with light blows until the red color of the heat has entirely disappeared1 as this improves its texture by adding decidedly to the closeness of the grain4 ,welding ,steel4--,the common method employed for welding iron to iron is often resorted to for welding steel to steel1 but a great deal more care is necessary to success in the latter than in the former case4 ,there must be much precision so far as relates to the rate of heat1 as the margin for variation is extremely small4 ,if the temperature is not high enough there will be no adhesion1 of course2 and if it attains to only a few degrees above what is actually necessary1 the steel either 8runs0 and is ruined1 or is ruined by going into an unworkable condition known as 8burnt40 ,it sometimes becomes necessary to weld steel and iron together2 this may be effected by the same process as that employed in welding steel to steel4 ,none but workmen of thorough experience would be apt to succeed in either case1 on the old plan of proceeding the same as in welding iron to iron4 ,but steel may be more easily welded than on the old plan by the employment of certain welding compositions4 ,one of them consists of half a pound of saltpetre dissolved in half a pound of oil of vitriol1 and afterwards added to two gallons of soft water4 ,heat the pieces to a cherry-red1 then plunge them into this composition2 after which proceed to reheat and weld in the usual way4 ,at the welding the strokes of the hammer should be quick and light4 ,another composition is made by pulverizing together ten parts of borax and one part of sal-ammoniac4 ,thoroughly melt the composition so made in an iron pot1 then pour out upon some level surface to cool4 ,when cooled grind to a fine powder4 ,heat the pieces of steel and sprinkle this welding powder over them2 then return to the fire1 and again heat up1 and it is ready to go together under the hammer4 ,some smiths claim to weld steel successfully by dusting over the heated pieces a powder composed of clear white sand1 #b lbs41 and plaster of ,paris1 #a lb42 then reheating and proceeding in the usual way4 ,in welding steel to iron the foregoing processes are employed the same as if both pieces were steel4 ,tempering4--,heat the steel to a bright cherry-red1 and plunge it at once into cold water4 ,it will then be as hard as fire and water could make it1 and too hard for anything except hardened bearings for machinery1 or for some kind of implements necessary to be extremely hard1 as tools for cutting glass1 and the like4 ,in this condition it is almost as brittle as glass itself1 and hence would not stand for most of the uses to which tempered steel is applied4 ,its great degree of hardness must1 therefore1 be reduced to the proper standard1 depending upon what it is to be used for4 ,this is done by heating and closely observing the resulting colors as they appear upon the metal4 ,if the piece under process is an edge-tool of considerable bulk1 only the cutting-edge1 and a little back of it1 is plunged into the water at the hardening1 the rest of the implement being left still hot4 ,it is then held into the light and observed closely1 when the different colors1 indicating the different degrees of hardness1 will be seen moving slowly1 one after the other1 down towards the edge1 driven by the heat still left in the part of the metal not plunged4 ,when the color wanted has reached the edge1 the entire piece is plunged into the slack-tub1 which stops further action of the heat1 and establishes the required degree of hardness exactly where it is desired4 ,but very light articles and implements cannot be tempered in this way1 as they will not retain sufficient heat to drive the colors2 it will be necessary to reheat them gradually in some way to make the colors move4 ,very light pieces1 as drills and the like1 are best tempered in a spirit or alcohol lamp2 after having been hardened they should be held in the flame of the lamp a little back of the point or cutting-edge1 which will enable the operator to note the movement of the colors4 ,in this case his actions1 so far as the colors are concerned1 will be governed the same as in the other4 ,small articles to be tempered alike all over may be placed upon a bit of sheet-iron1 after hardening1 and the iron held over the fire of the forge1 or directly over the flame of the lamp1 until the required color has appeared1 when they must be quickly plunged into the water4 ,on large articles the colors will be often so strongly marked as to be readily seen on the surface of the metal1 rough1 just as it came from the hammer1 but in small articles they will be somewhat faint2 hence it is best to give small articles a slight polish before exposing them to heat for drawing the temper4 ,nine shades of color will present themselves one after the other as a piece of thoroughly-hardened steel is exposed to gradually-increasing heat4 ,they are3 #a4 ,very faint yellow1 appearing at a temperature of #dcj ,fahrenheit4 ,if slacked at this color1 the piece will be very hard1 having a temper admirably suited to drills for working in hard metals or hard stone4 #b4 ,pale straw-color--#dej4 ,still very hard1 suitable for the faces of hammers and anvils4 #c4 ,full yellow--#dgj4 ,shears and scissors4 #d4 ,brown--#dij4 ,gravers and turning-tools for hard metals2 also percussion-lock gun tubes4 #e4 ,brown1 with purple spots--#eaj4 ,wood-working tools and most of the steel parts in a gun-lock with the exception of the springs2 also knives of all sorts for cutting wood4 #f4 ,purple--#ech4 ,butcher-knives and other flesh-cutting implements4 #g4 ,dark blue--#eej4 ,tools requiring strong cutting-edges without extreme hardness1 as case-knives4 #h4 ,full blue--#efj4 ,chopping-axes4 #i4 ,grayish blue1 verging on black--#fjj4 ,springs1 saws1 swords1 and the like4 ,various other methods of tempering steel are sometimes recommended1 as with oils1 tallow1 lead1 mercury and divers solutions2 but since the matter-of-fact gunsmith will find use for none of them1 it is not deemed proper to encumber this book with anything further on the subject of tempering4 ,it might be well to state1 however1 that the hardest degree to which steel can be brought is secured by heating the piece to a light yellow and instantly plunging it into cold mercury4 ,to ,restore 8,burnt0 ,steel4--,pulverize together two parts horn or hoof filings2 one part sal ammoniac2 one part charcoal1 and one part common soda4 ,when thoroughly ground together1 work in tallow enough to make a kind of wax or paste4 ,bring the damaged steel to a bright cherry-red heat1 and then cover with the paste1 leaving it to cool gradually4 ,the process may be repeated several times with profit if considered necessary4 ,while a piece of badly-burnt steel may not be entirely restored by this process1 it can be much improved4 ,entire restoration is scarcely possible4 ,annealing ,steel4--,heat the steel to a cherry-red in a charcoal fire1 the last thing to be done before quitting work at the forge for the day or night2 then smother the fire down with a thick layer of ashes or sawdust1 leaving the steel in1 just as heated4 ,let so remain until the fire is all out1 and the steel entirely cool1 which will require several hours4 ,some smiths use a piece of gas-pipe in which to heat small steel articles for annealing1 claiming that it is very advantageous4 ,they put the piece into the pipe and heat to a cherry red1 looking in occasionally to ascertain when it has attained to that temperature2 then they cover the fire1 pipe and all1 and leave it to cool as in the other case4 ,to ,blue ,steel4--,polish the article to be blued1 then place it upon a strip of sheet iron and heat slowly over a forge fire or lamp1 until the desired blue color appears4 ,let cool1 and the color will remain permanent4 ,to ,remove ,blue ,color from ,steel4--,immerse for a few minutes in a liquid composed of equal parts muriatic acid and oil of vitriol4 ,rinse in pure water and rub dry with chamois skin or some kind of soft cloth4 ,tempering ,knife ,blades4--,to heat the blades lay them in a clear charcoal fire1 with the cutting edge downwards1 and heat very slowly4 ,it is not particular if the back of the blade1 which is uppermost1 is so very hot or not4 ,harden in clean luke-warm water4 ,if many blades are to be hardened at once1 lay a number in the fire and remove one at a time as they are properly heated4 ,to temper1 brighten one side on a grindstone or emery wheel so that the temper color can be seen1 and lay the blades in the fire1 or on an iron plate heated over the fire1 with the backs down and the cutting edges uppermost4 ,on the plate place wood ashes or fine sand to help keep the blades in proper position1 and also facilitate even drawing4 ,when the proper color is seen on the brightened portion of the cutting edge1 remove and cool in cold water4 ,when an extra tough blade is wanted1 after it is hardened1 handle it so that it will not draw any lower after removing from the fire1 and let it cool without putting in water4 ,long blades1 when they are being drawn1 can be straightened1 if necessary1 by putting them between two pins in the anvil or pins fixed in an iron block and bending between these until straight1 wetting the blade with a cloth or sponge saturated with water1 when the blade is thus straightened4 ,surprising as it may seem1 when hardened steel is being drawn1 it can be bent to quite an extent1 and when cooled will remain as bent4 ,file makers straighten files in this manner4 ,sword blades and blades of butchers' knives undergo the same process of manipulation to be made straight4 ,the ,lead ,bath for ,tempering4--,among the many secrets of tempering is the employment of the lead bath1 which is simply a quantity of molten lead1 contained in a suitable receptacle and kept hot over a fire4 ,the uses of this bath are many4 ,for instance1 if it be desired to heat an article that is thick in one portion and thin in another1 every one who has had experience in such work knows how difficult it is to heat the thick portion without overheating the thin part4 ,if the lead bath be made and kept at a red heat1 no matter how thick the article may be1 provided sufficient time be given1 both the thick and thin parts will be evenly and equally heated1 and at the same time get no hotter than the bath in which they are immersed4 ,for heating thin cutting blades1 springs1 surgical instruments1 softening the tangs of tools1 etc41 this bath is unequaled4 ,if a portion of an article be required to be left soft1 as the end of a spring that is to be bent or riveted1 the entire may be tempered1 and the end to be soft may be safely drawn in the lead bath to the lowest point that steel can be annealed without disturbing in the least the temper of the part not plunged in the bath4 ,springs1 or articles made of spring brass1 may be treated in the same manner4 ,one great advantage in using the lead bath is that there is no risk of breakage or shrinkage of the metal at the water line1 as is often the case when tempered by the method of heating and chilling in cold water4 ,as lead slowly oxidizes at a red heat1 two methods may be used to prevent it4 ,one is to cover the surface of the lead with a layer of fine charcoal or even wood ashes4 ,another and a better plan1 when the work will admit of its use1 is to float on the top of the lead a thin iron plate1 fitting the vessel in which the lead is contained1 but having a hole in the centre or on one side1 as most convenient1 and large enough to readily admit the articles to be tempered or softened4 ,test for ,good ,steel4--,break the bar of steel and observe the grain1 which in good steel should be fine and present a silvery look1 with sometimes an exfoliated or leaf-like appearance4 ,one of the best tests of steel is to make a cold chisel from the bar to be tested1 and when carefully tempered 7be careful not to overheat71 try it upon a piece of wrought iron bar4 ,the blows given will pretty correctly tell its tenacity and capability of holding temper4 ,remember the temper you gave it1 and if it proves tough and serviceable1 take this temper as a guide and temper other tools in like manner4 ,inferior steel is easily broken1 and the fracture presents a dull1 even appearance1 which may very appropriately be termed a lifeless look4 ,etching on ,steel4--,make an etching solution by pulverizing together sulphate of copper1 one ounce2 alum1 one-quarter ounce1 and common salt1 one-half teaspoonful4 ,add one gill strong vinegar and twenty drops nitric acid4 ,stir till thoroughly dissolved4 ,polish up the metal to be etched1 and then cover its polished surface with a thin coating of bees-wax4 ,this can be accomplished with neatness by simply heating the metal till the wax flows evenly over its surface4 ,now draw upon the wax1 cutting cleanly through to the steel the figure you wish to etch2 then cover the figure so prepared with the etching solution1 and let stand for a short time1 depending upon the depth of cut desired4 ,finally rinse off with clear water1 and then remove the bees-wax4 ,it will be found that the solution has cut into the surface of the steel wherever exposed1 leaving untouched all parts covered by the wax4 ,very good etching can be done by applying1 on the foregoing plan1 nitric acid alone4 ,etching offers a good method of cutting a man's name on his gun or pistol4 ,it works on silver or brass the same4 ,,chapter ,,xii4 ,,on ,,working ,,in ,,silver1 ,,copper ,,and ,,brass4 ,to ,forge ,silver4--,the gunsmith will not have much to do with silver in the work of his trade1 though instances may occur now and then when he will be called upon to make or repair mountings or ornaments for gun-stocks formed of this metal1 and also foresights1 particularly for the old fashioned ,kentucky rifle4 ,in shaping silver under the hammer no heat will be necessary at the hammering--it would do no good4 ,the metal is so malleable that it may be drawn into almost any shape by simply hammering cold4 ,the only trouble liable to come up in this kind of work will be the hardening of the metal under the influence of the hammer2 but this trouble may be pretty effectually removed by heating the silver to redness1 and then letting it cool gradually of itself4 ,care must be taken not to heat it too much above the first appearance of red1 as it melts quite easily4 ,to ,polish ,silver4--,file it down to the shape desired1 then dress with a fine file2 then work over thoroughly with a burnisher4 ,next buff it off with rotten stone1 and if a particularly fine finish is desired buff again with rouge4 ,light ,plate for ,copper or ,brass4--,dissolve silver in nitric acid by the assistance of heat2 put some pieces of copper into the solution and immediately the silver will be precipitated4 ,with fifteen or twenty grains of the precipitate thus obtained mix half a drachm of alum and two drachms each of tartar and common salt4 ,pulverize well together4 ,having thoroughly cleaned the surface to be plated1 rub it well and hard with the mixture1 using a bit of chamois skin1 until it presents a white appearance4 ,next polish off with soft leather until bright4 ,inferior as this kind of plating would seem1 it will wear a long time4 ,to ,clean ,silver4--,wash with a little spirits of ammonia reduced in strength by twice its bulk of pure water1 then rub dry and bright with soft leather4 ,no kind of polishing powder will be necessary4 ,some workmen clean silver by first washing it over with diluted muriatic acid1 then immediately covering the surface with dry prepared chalk1 then brushing off and rubbing clean with a bit of chamois skin4 ,it acts very well1 but care must be had to get the acid thoroughly cleaned off else it will have a tendency to soon tarnish the silver4 ,to ,work ,copper4--,this metal is almost as malleable as silver1 and works very well under the hammer in a cold state4 ,heat adds nothing to its malleability1 though1 as in the case of silver1 exposure to a low degree of heat1 followed by gradual cooling1 softens it somewhat when it has been rendered hard and brittle by long hammering4 ,it polishes very well1 but does not long retain its polish and brilliancy on account of its disposition to oxidize4 ,heating increases its oxidation2 repeatedly heating and cooling would soon wear it entirely away4 ,to ,work ,brass4--,this material is a combination of copper and zinc1 and since zinc is not so malleable as copper1 it renders the brass less malleable4 ,nevertheless it forges out pretty well under the hammer1 in a cold state1 the only condition in which it can be so worked4 ,hammering increases its hardness with great rapidity1 soon converting it into a very fair spring metal4 ,brass springs are quite common--they are all made by repeatedly hammering or rolling the metal while cold4 ,as in the case of both silver and copper1 heating and gradual cooling removes this hardness4 ,this is the plan for softening usually recommended in books on working metals1 but no advantage will be found to arise from the gradual cooling in the case of either silver1 copper or brass4 ,the custom is to heat the metal to the lowest degree that would show redness and then plunge it directly into cold water4 ,to ,cast ,brass4--,the gunsmith may occasionally find it necessary to cast something in brass4 ,this he can do without trouble1 as brass melts quite easily4 ,the mould should have vents at or near the top to admit the free escape of air as the molten metal runs in to take its place2 and it is always best1 if possible1 to arrange so that the metal will enter the mould near the bottom and rise up in the filling4 ,without such an arrangement there is danger of air bubbles remaining under the metal and spoiling the casting4 ,the metal should be heated only to a degree high enough to admit of flowing freely and no higher4 ,to ,brass ,iron4--,clean and polish the iron thoroughly1 being extremely careful not to touch its surface with the fingers at the finishing2 then plunge it into molten brass4 ,take out immediately2 a thin coating of brass will be found covering the iron1 which may be polished or burnished1 giving the article the appearance of solid brass4 ,to ,clean ,brass4--,to half a pint of soft water add one tablespoonful of oxalic acid4 ,wash the article with this1 then cover with prepared chalk1 brush dry and polish with chamois skin1 as in cleaning silver4 ,the solution may be bottled and kept on hand for use as wanted4 ,to ,solder ,brass4--,the processes in soft soldering are the same for all metals1 full instructions for which may be found in ,chapter ,,xxxiv4 ,hard soldering 7see also ,chapter ,,xxxiv7 is something different1 and in the case of brass it is somewhat different on account of the low degree of temperature at which the metal melts4 ,the solder most commonly used is composed of two parts of common brass and one part of zinc1 melted together4 ,reduce your solder to fine bits by cutting or filing1 and then mix with sal-ammoniac and borax1 the two latter having been pulverized together in equal parts and moistened with water to form a kind of paste4 ,carefully clean the pieces to be joined1 lay them together1 place the soldering compound along the upper edge of the joint1 which must be held vertically1 and then heat gradually over a charcoal fire until the solder is seen to run down between the pieces4 ,the instant the solder is seen to run remove the work from the fire1 tap the work gently with a small hammer to jar the solder into all interstices1 and1 if the work be so that it can be done1 scrape off the superfluous solder and burnt borax with an old file4 ,,chapter ,,xiii4 ,,on ,,working ,,in ,,wood4 ,the ,woods ,most in ,use4--,various woods are now employed for making gun stocks1 but among them all1 the most popular1 perhaps1 is black walnut4 ,it is deservedly so from the fact that it is light1 works easily1 takes a superior polish1 has a rich dark color1 naturally1 and when finished up does not incline to 8check40 ,so popular is it1 indeed1 that most of the other woods worked into gun stocks are stained and finished up to imitate walnut4 ,in some portions of the country hard or sugar maple 78sugar tree07 is worked quite extensively by the local gunsmiths4 ,it makes a very nice stock1 finishing to good advantage1 especially 8curled maple10 which is really beautiful4 ,soft maple is also extensively used1 stained and finished to imitate either hard maple or walnut4 ,the common dogwood makes an excellent gun-stock1 but it works badly on account of the smallness of the tree rendering it difficult for one to get the pieces sawed out in proper shape at the beginning4 ,holly also makes a good stock1 but presents the same objection as the dogwood4 ,cherry has few superiors1 but it is now becoming a very scarce wood4 ,sweet gum is getting to be quite extensively used for cheap guns1 stained to imitate either walnut or cherry4 ,it has fine grain1 and works very well1 the chief objection to it being that it is wonderfully inclined to warp4 ,wood for ,gun ,stocks4--,the wood for a gun stock should combine strength and lightness1 and at the same time it is desirable that it be easy to cut4 ,the fibres of the wood should be close and possess great cohesion and should be little liable to split4 ,in this country black-walnut is generally selected for shot guns1 and either black-walnut or hard maple for rifles4 ,the grain of the wood should be straight at the small of the stock1 which is the weakest portion of the work4 ,between this and the end of the breech it little matters how the grain runs4 ,if there be curls1 waves or a hard knot1 let it come about midway between the small and the end of the butt4 ,as the wood at this place is simply 8rounded0 it is easy to work it into shape1 as the shape given to it is such that any deviation of the fibres or grain from a straight line can be shown to the best advantage1 also at this place there is less demand for strength of wood than at any other part of the gun stock4 ,around the small it is very necessary that the grain be straight and run in the direction of the shape given and also continue straight until past the place where the locks are set in4 ,a little distance in front of the barrel breech it matters but little how the grain runs1 but if the fibres of the wood where the barrel is let in run toward the breech it will be found to be easier to work out for the reception of the barrel4 ,for then as the tools are worked toward the breech they are cutting with the fibres or grain and not against it4 ,but as the majority of guns are now half-stocked the distance to cut in order to let in a barrel is so small that but little attention need be paid to the grain at this spot4 ,the best and most serviceable stocks are those made from parts of the tree where large branches join the trunk4 ,in these parts1 too1 will be found the curled and irregular grain that is so much admired when the stock is so made that these irregularities come in the stock a little in front of the butt plate4 ,when large trees are cut down1 it will be observed very often that there are portions of the stump that have a kind of convex form1 and extending downward terminate in large roots4 ,if these be dug out or separated from the stump by splitting them1 they are almost always of a proper shape1 to have the grain run nearly straight in the curves as given to the stock4 ,in black-walnut and hard maple these root portions are very firm of fibre1 quite hard and have a splendid grain that finishes up beautifully4 ,portions of some root pieces have a mottled appearance and are of a different color from the wood as cut from the trunk of the tree2 this is especially the case with black-walnut4 ,as these stumps can be had by the trouble of removing them1 the gunsmith can very cheaply secure pieces of wood that are very valuable4 ,oftentimes black-walnut stumps are found floating in the water1 and on the banks of western rivers1 that are perfectly sound and so darkened by water soaking that they make beautiful stocks4 ,the dryness and fitness of the wood may be ascertained by the easy crumbling of the shavings and by the dryness of the sawdust4 ,it is necessary that the wood be well seasoned1 for if any moisture or sap remains in it1 the barrel and portions of the lock that come in contact with the wood1 will in a short time be covered with rust4 ,,chapter ,,xiv4 ,,on ,,gun ,,stocks4 ,form of ,gun ,stocks4--,when a customer orders a stock to be made1 or has a gun to be re-stocked1 the gunsmith will observe the length of his customer's arms1 length of neck1 his height and general carriage4 ,from these he can gather some data as to the length and form of stock to be made4 ,give him a gun1 and observe his mode of raising it and taking aim1 and the manner of his holding his head while aiming1 and deductions may be drawn as to what the customer requires4 ,a tall1 long-limbed and long-armed man requires a longer stock than a shorter person1 and a straight stock will better answer for a short-necked1 high-shouldered man than for a long-necked1 low-shouldered person4 ,a straight stock is much more suitable for a short-necked1 high-shouldered person than a bent one1 and for this reason1 that1 in fast shooting the point of sight at the end of the gun would come up to the range of the eye before the butt could be placed full against the shoulder1 and one consequence would be1 when fired1 a severe recoil of the gun at every discharge4 ,a stock rather long is much better than one too short1 and one rather crooked to one that is too straight4 ,if a gun be not held on a perfect level1 but the muzzle higher than the breech1 the load will be carried over the object aimed at1 supposing that object to be on a level with the eye4 ,let a customer take a gun1 such as would be thought to be best suited to his 8build10 and request him to close both eyes and raise the gun to a level1 as if to shoot thus4 ,have him hold the gun immovable thus1 and then request him to open his eyes1 and it is evident if he requires a stock to be made different from the one he has in hand4 ,if the face comes naturally to the breech and the eye has a 8fine sight0 along the barrel1 it is just the pattern of gun stock for him to have4 ,if it be too straight he will shoot over1 if too much crooked he will shoot under4 ,in the first instance the muzzle is brought too high by an effort of the face to find a position at the breech1 and in the other case it so readily finds a place that no further effort is made1 except by practice1 to raise the muzzle to the proper level4 ,a tall1 slim person requires a gun with a long1 crooked stock1 and rather heavier and made fuller behind the small1 as this will fill up his want of a full face1 and will better permit his eye a command of sight along the middle of the barrels1 supposing the gun to be a double one4 ,for a short individual a short1 straight stock is required1 and it should be made thinner behind the small1 so as to easily permit access to the line of sight4 ,if a person be in the habit of firing too low and behind a bird1 if the stock be made a little straighter it will prove a remedy for the fault4 ,that part of the stock where the cheek comes to rest should be full1 as it gives more support to the line of fire4 ,the heel of the stock should be in a straight line with the upper rib between the barrels4 ,if a single gun1 on a line with the barrel4 ,the length of stock from the centre of front trigger to centre of butt-plate1 from thirteen to fifteen and a half inches2 a short person requiring the less measurement1 while a very tall one might require the longest one4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #bc4 ,the cut1 ,fig4 #bc1 gives a better idea of what the stock should be4 ,place a rule or straight-edge upon the rib of the gun1 and long enough to reach from the sight of the gun over and beyond the butt4 ,be particular that the straight-edge lies along the rib and touches it at both muzzle and breech4 ,the measurement from a to b on the butt is what is termed the 8drop10 and this may be from two and a half to four inches1 according to the requirements of the shooter4 ,the cheek of the sportsman comes between c and d1 and almost always touches the stock at this place when bending his head forward over the stock of his gun to take the line of sight4 ,this part of the gun should command particular attention4 ,another point of considerable importance to observe is1 that a due regard be paid to the proper fall of equipoise or centre of gravity of the gun when stocked and ready for use4 ,this centre of gravity should fall at a point about two feet two inches1 or perhaps an inch more1 from the heel of the butt4 ,in this case the arm is easier to handle and easier to carry4 ,if the breech be too light1 lead may be inserted to advantage in the butt1 the butt-plate being removed for that purpose4 ,dimensions for ,single ,gun4--,the following may be considered very good dimensions for a single gun stock3 ,whole length of stock1 from butt to cap1 two feet two inches2 length or depth of butt1 five and a half inches1 with a trifling concave surface2 width of stock at butt1 two inches2 from point of centre of the lock-tumbler to cap1 eleven inches2 width of stock before the guard1 one inch and three-eighths1 and made nearly square4 ,dimensions for ,double ,gun4--,for a double gun3 ,length of stock1 from butt to cap1 two feet one inch2 length or depth of butt1 five and a half inches1 with a slightly concave surface two inches in width2 from centre of lock-tumbler to cap1 ten and one-quarter inches2 width of stock before guard1 one inch and three-quarters1 and made nearly square4 ,laying out ,gun ,stocks4--,several patterns each1 of double and single1 and rifle stocks are necessary4 ,these patterns may be made of thin wood or thick straw-board4 ,these patterns ought to be a little larger than the finished stock1 and are intended only for a proximate measurement of the stock when to be sawed from the rough wood4 ,select the wood1 lay the pattern upon it1 mark around with a pencil or crayon1 and then saw out by the lines made4 ,with a plane1 smooth one side of the wood so as to show the grain and the direction in which it runs4 ,this must govern the position of laying the pattern4 ,the weakest portion of the stock is the small1 and there it is almost a necessity that the grain should not run across the line of the stock1 but with it4 ,if a very little divergence be made1 it may not matter1 provided the wood be of a hard and close grain4 ,if the grain run across1 or at an angle at this weakest spot1 a slight blow or accidental fall is liable to cause a breakage which can best be repaired with a new stock4 ,if the wood be in some places mottled1 with curled or twisted grain1 or has a knot that is hard and sound1 let this spot come in the center of the butt1 for by its width and thickness no accident is liable to break it1 and the rounded form gives opportunity to show off the irregular grain to good advantage4 ,let the wood where the butt plate is attached be of straight and regular grain if possible4 ,the grain where the locks are let in1 and also where the barrel is let in1 should be straight and run in the same line as the barrel4 ,the planks or rough pieces for double gun stocks should be about two and a quarter inches thick before they are reduced4 ,two inches for a single gun1 and about one and three-quarter inches1 or a little thicker1 for rifles1 depending on their weight and the taste of the customer4 ,it is best to have a number of stocks roughed out4 ,maple for rifles and black-walnut for single and double guns4 ,let them lay in a dry place to thoroughly season1 and if they remain in this manner for several years1 they are all the better for it4 ,it is claimed that it takes seven years for a plank to season1 and even then when sawed into stocks1 they will be observed to shrink and change form1 and often small cracks will appear4 ,unhesitatingly reject all pieces that are unsound1 or have any appearance of being brash1 or with any signs of decay4 ,often in laying the patterns upon the wood these places can be readily avoided1 and thrown away as the plank is cut up4 ,draw a straight line where the barrels will come1 and cut to this line1 but be sure to leave plenty of wood where the breech of the barrels rest1 and where the break-off is set in4 ,when the stock is roughed out1 this spot will have the appearance of a rise or swell with a sharp curve in front1 down on to the line which is just below the centre of the line of the barrels for double guns1 and on the centre for single guns and rifles4 ,except in the case of some who may fancy the old ,kentucky rifle1 all guns will probably be made with half-stock4 ,it would be hardly advisable to keep only a very limited stock of full length stocks on hand4 ,if such are to be roughed out1 pay particular attention to have the grain of the wood as straight as possible the full length where the barrel is to be let in4 ,how to ,stock a ,gun4--,stocking a gun is the most difficult portion of the gunsmith's trade4 ,the change from iron work to the manipulation of wood is so great that many workmen refuse to work at both branches of the business4 ,then again1 if the stock be not well done and the parts well fitted1 they show a greater per cent4 worse than perhaps they really are4 ,the letting in of the barrel and locks should be done with care and nicety1 and no apparent openings between wood and metal should be visible4 ,the parts should be closely adherent to the wood1 yet easy to be removed and returned to place4 ,where straight lines of the wood work are required1 as along the line of the barrels and other places1 let the lines be straight4 ,where the convex lines of the breech and butt occur1 let the lines be graceful and of even proportions4 ,the ,first ,operation4--,after receiving the rough formed stock1 as roughed out for seasoning1 the first thing to do is to plane it to a thickness1 and there are two places to measure for this thickness4 ,one is the thickness of the butt1 which in double guns may be two inches1 and the same width in heavy single guns1 and a trifle lighter if it be a light gun4 ,the other place for measurement is across where the locks are to be let in4 ,observe how the locks are to rest1 against the break-off or against the barrels4 ,note this measurement and add the thickness of the locks4 ,this may be an inch and three-eighths to an inch and a half for single guns1 and an inch and five-eighths to an inch and three-quarters for double guns1 yet as the formation of the breech and style of locks differ so will these measurements vary from the measurements given4 ,when these measurements are made1 and the stock reduced to the proper width1 draw a line both on the upper side of the stock as well as the under side1 exactly between the breech and lock measurements1 and continue this line from the end of the butt to the end of the fore-stock4 ,cut down to a straight line the stock where the barrels are to be let in1 and fit in the break-off4 ,take pains to fit it well1 for on the fitting of this in a great measure depends the life of the stock4 ,if the barrels be loose fitted1 each recoil of the gun on firing tends to loosen the break-off from the barrels1 and the joint soon becomes open and shackling4 ,when this part is snugly fitted and the strap let in1 put in temporary screws to hold it for a season4 ,cut out the groove for the barrels1 keeping in mind all the time that the central line between the barrels must be on the line as drawn on the centre of the stock4 ,if a single gun1 this line must pass directly through the axial line of the bore4 ,letting in ,barrels4--,when it is thought that wood enough has been removed to admit the barrels1 rub oil on them on the under side where they come in contact with the stock1 put the hooks in the break-off1 and with the hand press the barrels to place--the oil will show on the wood1 on removing them1 and then1 with gouge or float1 remove this portion and again put the barrels in place1 observing the oil marks1 and reduce the wood again until the barrels lie in their beds evenly and solidly1 and the joining at the break-off is in place1 square and true4 ,the heel of the stock should come in a straight line with the middle of the rib1 and will come so1 if observance of the lines first drawn has been made4 ,measure for the ,stock4--,now measure for the drop of the stock1 which is illustrated in ,fig4 #bc4 ,from the line a to b1 which is a continuation of a line along the top of the barrels1 may be1 for instance about three inches4 ,cut the stock away on top to this measurement1 and fit on the butt plate4 ,to get the length of the breech1 measure from the spot where the end of the front trigger will come1 and this measurement extended1 straight back to the centre of the butt1 gives the length4 ,for a person with long arms about fifteen and a half inches is enough2 about fourteen and a half for a person with ordinary length of arm1 and thirteen and a half or thirteen and three-quarters for a person with short arms4 ,the ,butt4--,the depth of the butt for a double or single may be about five and a half inches1 but for a light single gun a little less but not very much4 ,letting in the ,locks4--,the locks should now be let in their proper places1 and1 while so doing1 have great care that no more wood be removed than is necessary4 ,see that the lock-plates have all the support possible where they fit into the wood4 ,cut out enough for full play of the mainspring and sear-berg spring carefully1 do not remove wood where the edges of the lock-plate come1 so as to leave open spaces for admission of water1 dust or moisture4 ,in letting in the locks the portions of wood to be removed can be ascertained by touching the prominent parts of the lock with oil1 or holding the lock over a smoky lamp1 so as to have soot adhere1 then observe where it touches1 on pressing the locks into place4 ,observe if the cup of the hammer comes squarely on the nipple1 and put in the side bolts as they are to remain4 ,letting in the ,trigger-,plate4--,let the trigger-plate into the stock so that the arm of the sear bears wholly on the thick of the trigger1 and not on the outer end4 ,for this reason1 if it engages the outer end1 on being pulled to disengage the nose of the sear from the tumbler notch1 it produces a sort of 8twisted leverage0 which does not work quick and strong enough to properly disengage the sear without some effort on account of this4 ,if the arm of the sear bears only in part on the thick of the trigger1 it works hard and stiff1 and the parts soon wear each other4 ,observe if the arm of the sear be not too short1 for it might happen that the trigger will slip off at the end upon a quick pressure being applied1 leaving the parts disengaged and the hammer standing at full-cock4 ,letting in the ,trigger4--,the trigger should be so disposed in the plate that a distance of an inch and about three-eighths exist between the right trigger and the front of the trigger guard1 and an inch and three-sixteenths or more between the two triggers1 and a sufficient space between the rear of the left trigger and the guard behind it to admit of free movement of the trigger4 ,observe if the triggers do not come too close to each other2 if they do they may so rub upon each other that the action of one will compel the other to follow its motion1 and the result will be a descent of both hammers at the same time4 ,observe if the curves of the two triggers are at sufficient distance from each other so that the left barrel can be fired without the projecting and inner edge of the right or first trigger hurting the finger that pulls the trigger4 ,secure ,fastenings4--,for a secure fastening of the break-off1 and1 at the same time1 to bind the stock together and prevent splitting through where the locks are let in1 insert a screw through the tang of the strap and have it received in the front end of the trigger-plate4 ,have a good thread where the screw goes into the trigger-plate1 and have the plate firmly drawn to its bed in the wood4 ,fit the guard1 observing the measurements for space in front and rear of the triggers4 ,fitting ,bolt-,loops4--,to ascertain the position of the loop where the bolt or wire goes through to hold the barrel in place1 insert a fine steel needle through the wood until it strikes the hole1 and then enlarge around it to accommodate the hole and the loop4 ,if for a bolt1 a slender tool made like a saw will enlarge the hole in the wood1 letting the tool follow in the loop and act as a guide to shape the hole4 ,the finishing of the hole in the wood may be done with a bolt float1 shown in ,fig4 #bd4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #bd4 ,hints for ,finishing4--,in finishing up the stock have the part where the cheek rests in firing made pretty full4 ,make it rather long than short1 and have it more straight than curved4 ,the length of a stock1 be it double or single gun1 from butt to front end of stock1 may be from about two feet to two feet two inches2 from the centre of the hammer-screw to front end of the stock1 from ten to eleven inches4 ,fitting the ,break-off4--,on good fitting of the break-off depends1 in a great measure1 the lasting quality of the gun4 ,if this be not properly fitted to the hooks of the breech1 to the breech itself1 and into the stock1 the gun is soon 8kicked0 to pieces by its own recoil4 ,the extension of the break-off that is let into the stock toward the breech is called tang1 strap or tail1 and these are of two lengths1 called the long and the short4 ,these lengths usually correspond with the lengths of breech pins4 ,the smallest diameter of break-off is one inch1 and increases by eighths of an inch up to two inches4 ,to let in ,escutcheons1 etc4--,do not fit in an escutcheon until that part of the stock is finished or made to form4 ,then1 after the bolt is fitted to its place through the loop1 remove the bolt1 make the hole in the escutcheon so that the bolt slides easily through it4 ,hold the escutcheons on the stock in the place they are to occupy and put the bolt through them4 ,mark around them with the sharp point of a knife and remove them4 ,cut out the wood of a depth to correspond with the thickness of the escutcheon with a bottoming tool4 ,put them in place and fasten them4 ,they can now be finished down with a file even with the stock4 ,it is well to have escutcheons with the ends long enough to admit of small screws being inserted to hold them4 ,they are more permanent than those that are held by a wire-like extension that goes through the wood and is clinched a little4 ,by using the screws the workman can make his own escutcheons4 ,sheet iron1 brass or ,german silver may be used4 ,the slot can be cut with a punch or drift1 and finished with a thin1 flat file4 ,the handles of old ,german silver spoons make very good escutcheons4 ,if too thick1 hammer out thinner4 ,heat them to soften so that they will not crack in hammering4 ,in putting escutcheons to place where they are to remain1 heat them quite warm1 smear with gum shellac and1 while soft and melted1 press into place4 ,if done expertly1 a neat job will be the result4 ,how to ,cast ,tips on ,fore-end of ,stock4--,tips are cast on the fore-end of half-stocked single guns and rifles for the purpose of preventing the stock from splitting1 and1 at the same time1 give it a finished appearance4 ,after the stock is finished to shape and the rod fitted1 put the barrel in place1 and put a short piece of wood in the rod groove1 the same as the rod would be if put there4 ,let the piece project from the wood four or five inches4 ,it serves a double purpose1 preventing the metal from flowing into the hole and making a hole to receive the rod4 ,now1 wind thick1 smooth paper--manilla paper is best--around the stock and barrel where the tip is to be cast1 confining it with a cord1 taking care to have all tight so that no portion of the metal will escape4 ,see that the space between the paper and wood is left large enough1 so that the metal can be dressed down a little2 little notches may be cut in the wood to have it hold the better4 ,fix the gun so as to stand upright1 so that the metal will pour evenly4 ,heat the metal pretty hot and pour carefully into the paper1 and pour in more than is wanted for the length of the tip1 as the dross will float to the top and can be removed when cold by sawing off a little of the tip4 ,file up and finish to suit the taste4 ,the best metal for tips is pure block tin1 as it remains white4 ,if it be wished to make it a little harder1 add a very little antimony1 but this is hardly necessary4 ,old type1 when melted1 make a very good material for tips when pure tin cannot be obtained4 ,tin has the advantage of always retaining a clear white color1 which when alloyed with lead1 it will not do4 ,chequering4--,to lay out the work preparatory for chequering1 take a piece of card--a firm pasteboard1 cut it to the shape of the spot to be chequered2 mark around it with a lead pencil4 ,if it be the small of a gun stock1 place it at the other side from that first marked and mark that place4 ,see that both places are marked alike4 ,then place the paper on1 so that when it is used as a guide the tool will cut a groove where the line was drawn4 ,cut outlines in the same manner1 the paper serving as a guide for the tool4 ,after one groove is cut1 this is a guide for grooving the space inclosed by the outlines4 ,to finish the cuts or grooves1 fold a short piece of fine sand-paper and run the folded edge along the cuts4 ,be careful not to cut down too much with the sand-paper4 ,a fine-cut1 three-square file can be used to finish up the grooves made by the chequering-tool4 ,be careful to select a file that has very sharp corners4 ,if one of the flat surfaces of the file be ground smooth1 the teeth on the corners will be found to be very sharp1 and will answer first-rate for finishing4 ,the same may be used for finishing the shading or outside lines around the chequered surface4 ,coloring ,gun ,stocks4--,gun stocks are colored with linseed oil in which alkanet root has been placed4 ,the oil will then be of a bright red color4 ,the oil may be applied cold or warm1 as most convenient4 ,after the application let the stock stand for a day or two until the wood has absorbed all the oil possible4 ,four ounces of the alkanet root to half a pint of the oil are sufficient4 ,unboiled or raw linseed oil is generally used4 ,it may take five or six days to color1 after the root is put in4 ,it may be put on the work four or five times1 with a bit of sponge or a rag4 ,to ,stain a ,maple ,stock4--,mix an ounce and a half of nitric acid with about equal quantity of iron turnings or filings4 ,wait until all the gas evolved has evaporated1 and then dip a rag in the liquid and wash the portions of the stock to be colored4 ,when this is dry1 wet with the oil and alkanet root4 ,another ,method4--,a stock may be oiled and then passed over a brisk flame1 as that made from dry shavings1 until the oil is scorched off1 and then lightly rubbed down with fine sand-paper and then finished in the usual way4 ,to ,color a ,maple ,stock ,brown4--,dissolve a few grains of sulphate of manganese in water2 wet the stock and hold over the flame of an alcohol lamp so as to scorch it4 ,by heating some parts more than others the color can be variegated4 ,oil with raw linseed oil1 and polish with a piece of hard wood4 ,the oil and polishing will develop the color1 which may be dull at first4 ,to ,color a ,reddish ,brown4--,brush the wood with dilute nitric acid1 and when dry apply the following with a brush3 ,dragon's-blood1 four ounces2 common soda1 one ounce2 alcohol1 three pints4 ,repeat if not dark enough4 ,to ,color a ,black4--,boil half a pound of logwood chips in two quarts of water2 add one ounce of pearlash1 and wash the work with it while hot4 ,then1 when dry1 go over the work with the following3 ,boil half a pound of logwood in two quarts of water2 add half an ounce of verdigris and green copperas1 in which has been put half a pound of rusty steel or iron filings4 ,rosewood ,stain4--,boil half a pint of logwood in three pints of water till the mixture is very dark red2 add salts of tartar1 one-half ounce1 while boiling hot2 and while still in this condition apply to the wood1 repeating the application two or three times1 as the previous application becomes dry4 ,rub over with a soft cloth when the last application has dried1 and set away for a day or so4 ,in the meantime boil one pound of logwood in four quarts of water until of a deep color1 then add one pint of vinegar1 heat hot and apply to the wood already stained1 with a suitable brush1 streaking on in imitation of rosewood4 ,when thoroughly dry rub off all loose matter with a soft cloth1 and varnish4 ,black-,walnut ,stain4--,put together gum asphaltum1 one pound1 and turpentine1 half a gallon4 ,dissolve by gentle heating1 taking care not to heat so as to ignite the turpentine4 ,rub over the wood1 and when dry1 if not sufficiently dark1 repeat the operation4 ,having the shade to suit1 polish down by rubbing hard with a woollen cloth1 followed with a bit of soft wood1 then varnish4 ,a stain1 not quite so good1 but cheaper and more simple1 is burnt umber1 such as can be bought at any paint shop1 ground in oil1 thinned with a little turpentine4 ,it should be put on very thick1 and then rubbed off to the proper shade with a woollen cloth4 ,dry and varnish4 ,mahogany ,stain4--,it is not often that guns are stocked in mahogany1 but the gunsmith ought to know how to stain in imitation of that wood1 should occasion happen to call for it4 ,put together1 water1 one half gallon2 madder1 four ounces2 and fustic1 two ounces4 ,boil4 ,lay on the wood with a brush while hot2 and while yet damp1 but not wet1 rub off with a woollen cloth2 then1 when dry1 go over with a second coat in streaks to imitate the grain of mahogany4 ,rub off all loose matter when dry1 and varnish4 ,cherry ,stain4--,put two ounces of annatto in half a gallon of rain water4 ,boil until the annatto is dissolved1 then add half an ounce of potash4 ,this preparation is intended for wood of a light color4 ,it may be bottled and kept for use when wanted4 ,nothing to do in the application but rub over the wood1 let dry1 and then varnish4 ,oil ,finish for ,gun ,stocks4--,mix common ,spanish whiting with some kind of coloring material until it is exactly the shade of the wood you desire to finish4 ,for instance1 if it is walnut to be finished1 the coloring agent will be dry burnt umber4 ,having the whiting ready1 give the wood1 which has been well finished up with fine sand paper1 a coat of raw linseed oil1 then sprinkle the whiting mixture over it1 and with a woollen cloth rub thoroughly and hard4 ,this forces the colored whiting into all the pores of the wood4 ,lastly1 rub down heavily with a piece of soft white pine1 and then set away to dry4 ,it may be left in this condition1 or it may be varnished1 when dry1 if thought desirable4 ,varnishing and ,finishing4--,after the stock is shaped and sand-papered so that the surface is smooth and free from any marks of the rasp and scratches of sand-paper wipe it over with a cloth a little moist with water1 this will raise the grain of the wood a little1 when dry1 sand-paper it off smooth4 ,with a small brush1 such as is used by painters and called a sash brush1 apply the varnish4 ,shellac varnish is the kind generally used by gunsmiths4 ,it will dry in a little time1 but ought to stand about twenty-four hours before being rubbed down4 ,this is done with fine sand-paper the same as finishing the stock1 the object being to fill the pores of the wood as much as possible4 ,it may require two1 three or even four coats of the varnish to do this1 each one after it is thoroughly dried1 being sand-papered down to the wood4 ,the last coat of varnish is laid on with a flat varnish brush made of soft fine hair2 see that the varnish be free from dirt or specks and not too thick2 put it on evenly and quickly4 ,see that it does not run down so as to show in streaks4 ,when this coat is thoroughly dry1 rub it down smooth with powdered pumice stone applied with a rag wet with water4 ,take care not to cut through the varnish so as to show the wood underneath1 as the pumice powder cuts very fast4 ,when the surface is made smooth and even1 wash off all traces of the pumice powder with a wet cloth1 and wipe it dry4 ,now go over it with powdered rotten-stone applied with a rag moistened with oil4 ,rub until the varnished surface shows a finish or a glassy appearance1 then wipe off all trace of rotten stone and oil4 ,if a little flour be dusted over1 it will better remove the oil traces that may remain2 with the hand rub the surface until it presents a gloss4 ,the hand must be soft to do this and must be free from dirt4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #be4 ,the ,varnish for ,gun ,stocks4--,some workmen use copal varnish because it is cheap and convenient1 but it is objectionable on account of its softness and its disposition to crack when exposed to the sun4 ,there are a number of special varnishes recommended to the gunsmith1 but for general use perhaps good coach varnish1 will answer in many cases4 ,it should be made quite thin with turpentine1 and be put on lightly4 ,varnish ,can4--,a very good form of varnish can is shown in ,fig4 #be4 ,the essentials are to have a cover with a stem to receive the handles of the brushes1 and a bridge crossing the can a little distance down from the top4 ,the cover never sticks1 no varnish collects around the sides1 and it is always clean and tidy4 ,the can is round and made of tin4 ,the cover shuts over the outside at the top4 ,in wiping the brush across the bridge1 be careful not to get any upon the outside of the can where the cover comes in contact4 ,the size of can maybe made according to the needs of the mechanic1 but the stem of the cover must be wide enough as well as long enough to receive the brush handles4 ,,chapter ,,xv4 ,,on ,,gun ,,barrels4 ,long and ,short ,barrels4--,a long barrel may be preferable for several reasons3 #ast4 ,a longer distance between the sights is given and the back sight can be put farther from the eye1 so that finer sighting is possible2 #b;d4 ,a long barrel is steadier in off-hand shooting2 #c;d4 ,it permits a slower burning powder to be used1 so that the charge starts more slowly and yet allows the full strength of the powder to be used before it leaves the barrel1 getting a high initial velocity with but little recoil4 ,the short barrel has an advantage over the long one inasmuch as it can be handled with greater quickness and the sight can be brought to bear more readily1 especially if the game be moving4 ,if the barrel be long enough to give the charge the full benefit of the propelling power of the powder it may be deemed all sufficient4 ,yet1 as to this1 tastes and experience may so differ as to raise many conflicting opinions4 ,except in some localities1 as in case of districts where the old-fashioned ,kentucky rifle is used1 long barrels have been pretty much abandoned4 ,a few years ago it was not uncommon to find barrels three and even four feet long1 now the lengths will range from twenty-six to thirty-two inches4 ,the length of the old ,government musket barrel was originally forty inches1 but has been lessened about seven inches4 ,with the long barrels1 a coarse1 slower burning powder may be used and get a good result1 but as a general thing cut off the barrel to a convenient length for off-hand shooting and moving game1 use a finer-grained powder1 which will be quicker burning and just as good results are obtained4 ,a gun having barrels over thirty inches in length1 must needs be made with heavy barrels1 and is very fatiguing to carry in an all day hunt4 ,a gun of this kind1 to be safe and well-proportioned1 ought to weigh nine or ten pounds4 ,if fine and quick-burning powder be used in a long barrel1 the powder is flashed into propelling gas1 instantaneously1 and beyond a certain length of barrel has no further expansive power1 and the result is a friction of the charge in escaping1 that affects the shot and consequently the pattern on the target4 ,if slow burning powder be employed in a short barrel1 the whole of the powder cannot be so instantly flashed into the propelling gas and some portion of it is1 as a result1 driven unconsumed from the muzzle of the gun4 ,this fact can be very readily ascertained by firing a gun over a bed of clean snow or over a spread of white cloth4 ,the unconsumed grains can be readily seen on the white ground4 ,if a less charge be used in order to consume all the powder1 less velocity will be given to the projected charge1 and weak shooting and a poor1 scattering effect on the target is the consequence4 ,proof of ,barrels4--,in consequence of the bursting of guns of an inferior quality1 all barrels of ,english manufacture that are intended for home use1 and also those designed for exportation1 except a certain class of arms1 are required by law to be proved and stamped with the proof-mark and also what is termed a view mark1 which is a stamp or impress of the inspection after the barrels were grooved4 ,there are two of these proofs called1 respectively1 the ,london and the ,birmingham proof4 ,in #ahee1 an ,act was passed by the ,english ,parliament1 called1 8,the ,gun ,barrel ,proof ,act10 which enacted that all barrels should be proved1 first1 in the rough1 and was called the provisional proof1 and afterward when the barrels were put together1 breeched and percussioned they were proved again1 and this was called the definitive proof4 ,the arms to be proved are to be divided into classes1 and the first class comprises single-barrelled military arms of smooth bore1 and they are not qualified for proof until they are fitted and complete to be set up or assembled4 ,the second class comprises double-barrelled military arms of smooth bore and rifled arms of every description1 whether of one or more barrels1 and constructed of plain or twisted iron4 ,the fourth class comprises double-barrelled guns for firing small shot1 and these are subject to the two proofs1 provisional and definitive4 ,for provisional proof1 if of plain metal1 the barrels are to be bored and ground to size1 the vent hole drilled of a size not exceeding one-sixteenth of an inch diameter1 and a vent enlarged to one-tenth disqualified it for proof4 ,notches in the plugs1 instead of drilled vents1 also disqualified them4 ,if the arms are of twisted metal1 they are to be fine bored and struck up1 with proving plugs attached1 and vents drilled the same as in plain barrels4 ,for definitive proof the barrels1 either plain or twisted1 must be finished ready for assembling1 with break-offs and locks fitted4 ,the top and bottom ribs have to be rough struck up1 pipes1 loops and stoppers on1 and the proper breeches in4 ,the same finished condition is required for rifles1 but1 in addition1 the barrels must be rifled4 ,the third class comprises single-barrelled shot guns1 and for proving they are to be finished ready for assembling1 with breeches in2 and all barrels1 with lumps for percussioning1 are to be proved through the nipple hole4 ,the fifth class comprises revolving and breech-loading arms of every description and system1 and for revolving arms are to have the cylinders with the revolving action attached and complete4 ,the barrels for breech-loaders are subject to provisional proof1 according to the class to which they belong1 and to definitive proof1 when the breech-loading action is attached and complete4 ,barrels made by the ,united ,states ,government1 or barrels made for the ,government1 are subject to severe proofs4 ,at the armory at ,springfield1 the barrels submitted for proof are loaded1 first1 with a #ejj-;grain slug and #bhj grains of powder1 and afterward with a slug of the same weight and #bej grains of powder4 ,an inspection of the barrel is made after each firing1 and other inspections after rifling1 browning1 etc4 ,probably the most severe proof of barrels was made with the ,turkish ,peabody-,martini rifles as made for the ,turkish ,government by the ,providence ,tool ,co4 ,the barrels were first proved for strength1 and were loaded with #bje grains of powder and #gae grains of lead4 ,the regular cartridge for service contains only #he grains of powder and #dhj grains of lead4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #bf4 ,proof ,marks on ,gun ,barrels4--,the marks applicable to the definitive proof are the proof and view marks of the two ,english companies1 viz43 the ,london and the ,birmingham4 ,the provisional proof marks consist of1 for the ,london company1 the letters ,g4 ,p41 interlaced in a cypher surmounted by a lion rampant1 and for the ,birmingham company the letters ,b4 ,p41 interlaced in a cypher surmounted by a crown4 ,the ,london marks are shown in ,fig4 #bf1 and the ,birmingham in ,fig4 #bg4 ,the method of affixing the proof marks in arms of the first and third classes1 the definitive proof mark and view mark is impressed at the breech end of the barrel1 and1 if the barrel be designed for a patent breech1 the view mark is also impressed upon the breech4 ,in arms of the second1 fourth and fifth classes1 the proof mark is impressed at the breech end of the barrel2 the definitive proof and view marks are impressed upon the barrel above the provisional proof marks4 ,if the barrel be made with patent breech or with revolving cylinders or chambers1 the view mark is impressed upon the breech or upon the cylinders or chambers1 as the case may be4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #bg4 ,on all barrels the gauge size of the barrel is struck both at the provisional and at the definitive proof4 ,these gauge marks are readily recognized1 as shown in the cuts of the proof marks4 ,barrels stamped with ,london marks are not always made in ,london1 for some gunmakers send their barrels to ,london to be proved1 because guns so marked find a readier sale4 ,barrels with foreign proof marks are exempted1 except in case of being marked as of ,english manufacture4 ,old muzzle-loaders1 if of ,english manufacture1 intended for conversion into other styles of guns1 must be subjected to both provisional and definitive proof4 ,it is said to be a fact that the proof marks of both companies are forged and imitated1 both in ,england and in ,germany1 and many cheap guns so stamped are exported to this country4 ,a cheap gun1 with the stamps mentioned1 may be looked upon with suspicion as to its really having been in the official proof-houses4 ,the proof marks employed by the inspectors in the ,u4 ,s4 ,government armories1 and placed on all arms inspected by them1 even if made in private armories1 are ,v for viewed1 and ,p for proved1 together with the initial letters of the inspector's name1 and are found stamped on each barrel4 ,on many guns of the old model arms will be found1 in addition to these marks1 the head of an eagle4 ,this is the mark that indicated that the barrels were made at the armory at ,harper's ,ferry1 when those works were in operation4 ,gauge of ,gun ,barrels4--,guns are gauged by numbers1 and these numbers were originally designed to express the number of round balls to the pound that would fit the bore of the barrel4 ,thus a ten gauge1 a ball of which ten made a pound1 would fit the bore1 etc4 ,ten and twelve bores are generally used by sportsmen1 especially those who use breech-loaders4 ,the twelve1 perhaps1 is the one most employed4 ,the following list shows the sizes of various gauges1 the values of the numbers being those adopted by the ,english proof companies4 ,the diameters of bores being expressed in decimal thousands of an inch3 ,number ,diameter of of bore ,gauge4 in inches4 #a #a4ffi #b #a4cbe #c #a4aeg #d #a4jeb #e 4#igf #f 4#iai #g 4#hgc #h 4#hce #i 4#hjc #aj 4#gge #aa 4#gea #ab 4#gbi #ac 4#gaj #ad 4#fic #ae 4#fgg #af 4#ffb #ag 4#fej #ah 4#fcg #ai 4#fbf #bj 4#fae #ba 4#fje #bb 4#eif #bc 4#ehg #bd 4#egi #be 4#ega #bf 4#efc #bg 4#eef #bh 4#eej #bi 4#edc #cj 4#ecg #ca 4#eca #cb 4#ebf #cc 4#ebj #cd 4#eae #ce 4#eaj #cf 4#ejf ,muzzle-loaders are of almost every variety of gauge1 while breech-loaders are made of a limited number of sizes4 ,the sizes of this class of guns are #h1 #aj1 #ab1 #ad1 #af and #bj1 and are limited to these sizes1 there being no intermediate sizes4 ,the #aj and #ab bore are mostly in use1 the #ab being in especial demand4 ,the calibre or bore of military guns during the ,revolution was #ge hundredths of an inch1 and has been reduced by successive stages until now it is but #de hundredths4 ,down to #ahef the calibre of the ,springfield musket was #eh hundredths4 ,in #ahef it was changed to #ej hundredths or one-half inch2 and again1 in #ahgc1 it was changed to the present calibre of #de hundredths4 ,bursting of ,barrels4--,bursting of barrels may result from three causes3 ,poor quality of iron of which the gun is made2 an excess of charge2 or some obstruction in the barrel so as to form an air space between the charge and the obstruction4 ,of poor quality barrels1 and excess of charge it is needless to make mention4 ,the instances of bursting from obstructions forming the air space or chamber may be mentioned in military guns1 firing the charge but neglecting to remove the wooden tompion from the muzzle of the gun4 ,in sporting guns snow may accidentally get into the muzzle or a lump of dirt may 8somehow0 get in so as to fill the bore1 and when the gun is fired1 it will probably1 yes1 most certainly be blown off or blown open where the obstruction exists2 the muzzle of a gun being thrust into water for a couple of inches or more will have like effect4 ,the gas formed by burning the powder finds no outlet of escape1 and the whole expansive force concentrates itself on the weakest portion of the barrel1 and as a result it is forced apart4 ,in good guns the portion toward the muzzle is the thinnest1 and obstructions are generally at or above this place1 and it is in this proximity where most guns are burst4 ,if within three1 four or five inches from the muzzle1 the portion so destroyed can be sawed off1 the barrels squared up and it will not always seriously affect the shooting of the gun4 ,in loading a gun be careful that there be no air space left between the charge and the ball or shot cartridge4 ,in double guns1 frequent firing the right barrel1 which is the one fired the most1 the recoil will often cause the ball or shot charge in the left barrel to be thrown forward from the powder1 and when it is fired may either strain or burst the barrel4 ,even if there be a small air space between the powder and the ball or shot cartridge it will affect the shooting4 ,every one using double guns should accustom himself to the use alternately of both barrels1 not only for safety but for good shooting4 ,a barrel is often said to be a poor shooter1 when its bad qualities may be wholly ascribed to the air space produced above the powder by the recoil occasioned by firing the other barrel4 ,to ,prevent ,gun ,barrels from ,rusting4--,heat the barrel to about the temperature of boiling water1 no higher1 and then cover it with a good coating of copal varnish4 ,let it stand at same temperature about half an hour1 then rub off the varnish while still hot with a soft cloth4 ,in this process the varnish will enter the pores of the metal sufficiently to prevent rusting1 but will not show on the surface after having been carefully rubbed off as directed4 ,a polished surface like that of a finished gun barrel1 is not much liable to rust1 and1 indeed1 seldom begins to rust1 the rust starting in the pores of the metal and finally working outward4 ,this being the case it will readily be seen that sheltering the pores by filling them with some kind of substance impervious to moisture cannot do otherwise than act as a splendid preventive4 ,protection from ,rust4--,it sometimes happens that finished up articles in steel or iron must be laid away for a considerable length of time1 in which case it is desirable to employ some means for protecting them from the effects of rust4 ,one of the most common things is to either grease them or wrap them in a greasy rag4 ,this may answer in many cases1 but it is not nearly so good as to paint them over with a mixture of white lead and tallow in equal parts1 the white lead to be such as has been ground in oil for the painter's use4 ,in this simple mixture will be found an effectual protection2 and as the tallow will prevent drying1 it may be entirely removed at pleasure by rubbing with a little kerosene or turpentine4 ,where it is desirable to protect an article that must be handled a great deal1 as gun-barrels on sale in a store1 for instance1 a very good plan is to heat the article sufficiently hot to readily melt beeswax brought in contact with it1 then rub it thoroughly with the wax4 ,let it stand until the wax is about ready to harden1 then rub off with a coarse woolen cloth4 ,the wax remaining on the metal will not show1 but there will be enough left to protect it from rust4 ,,chapter ,,xvi4 ,,on ,,work ,,on ,,gun ,,barrels4 ,boring ,gun ,barrels4--,the tool used for this purpose consists of a rod a little longer than the barrel to be bored1 with a cutter head at one end4 ,this cutter is about one-half or three-quarters of an inch long1 and of a diameter a little larger than the bore that is to be enlarged4 ,it can be made to be pulled through the barrel or to be pushed through when cutting4 ,in the armories where many guns of the same calibre are made1 a portion of the shank1 next to the cutter1 is made of the bore of the barrel1 and the cutter made of the size the bore is to be enlarged4 ,the portion that fills the bore acts as a guide1 so that the cutter is forced to follow after it1 and the enlarged bore is in the same line as the boring previously made4 ,the cutting edges of the tool are1 of course1 next to the enlarged portion4 ,as the tool is pulled through the barrel1 the cuttings are left behind it as it advances2 oil is to be supplied while cutting1 and care must be exercised not to let it get clogged with cuttings1 as a tearing of the surface of the barrel would be the result4 ,when the tool is made to be pushed through while cutting1 the cutting edges of the tool is on the end1 and it operates like a reamer4 ,this cutting end should be bevelled off so as to follow the bore to be enlarged4 ,how to make ,cutters for ,boring4--,one way to make these cutters is like a many-fluted reamer1 with five1 seven1 or more cutters4 ,the odd numbers will operate better than even ones4 ,if made with too many cutting edges1 there will not be clearance enough for the chips1 and clogging will be the result4 ,then again1 the cutters must not be too long1 or there will be too much friction1 and the barrel will become very hot in working4 ,also1 if the friction is too great1 the barrel may be bent and sprung in consequence4 ,one form of cutter is made like the cherry to make an elongated bullet1 or like the cherry of a ,minie bullet4 ,they may also be made in form of an egg4 ,a common twist drill welded to a steel rod has been used for small bores4 ,a small fluted reamer welded to a rod will do where the enlarging is quite small4 ,when the tool is to be pulled through the cutter may be made like a short twist drill not over an inch long1 with the cutting edges next the rod1 and not on the end1 as these drills are generally made4 ,quick-,boring ,gun ,barrels4--,the way to bore gun barrels by hand is this3 ,make a steel rod with a square bit about six or eight inches long on one end1 and a little less in diagonal diameter than the bore of the barrel4 ,the whole rod should be a little longer1 say a foot or so1 than the barrel to be bored4 ,harden and temper the bit end4 ,see that it is true and perfectly straight when ground4 ,the grinding should be done by drawing the bit across the face of the grindstone1 and this will leave the sides of the bit a little hollowing1 and the edges quite sharp4 ,pack up one side with a thin strip of soft pine until it will just enter the breech end of the barrel4 ,by means of a strong bit stock1 or a handle affixed like an auger1 turn it around1 at the same time forcing it toward the muzzle1 until it has cut its way through the entire length of the barrel4 ,while the cutting is going on keep the interior of the barrel plentifully supplied with good oil4 ,now1 as the bit will be a very little smaller than the bore of the barrel1 remove it and take off the little strip of wood and place between it and the bit a strip of writing paper of the length and width of the side of the bit where the wood was placed2 then insert the bit again at the breech and bore through to the muzzle4 ,repeat the operation again by inserting a second slip of paper1 and so proceed1 using plenty of oil1 until the bore or calibre of the barrel is sufficiently enlarged4 ,proving the ,size during ,boring4--,a method of proving the size of the interior of the barrel and at the same time test its being perfectly of the same size throughout1 is to cast an ingot of lead about an inch long in the muzzle1 and with a rod forcing it through4 ,if the work be well done the interior of the barrel will present a bright mirror-like appearance1 and will need no further finishing4 ,draw-,boring4--,draw-boring is done with a rod that nearly fills the bore of the gun1 and at one end of this rod is fitted a tool made like a short piece of file1 but with the teeth made a great deal coarser and larger4 ,this tool may be about an inch long1 and of a round form on the cutting side1 to fit the curvature of the bore4 ,this tool is put on the end of the rod and worked back and forth1 also turning it around1 so as to present the cutter to all sides of the bore in which it is to operate4 ,when it will cut no more the cutter is removed from its seat1 a slip of paper put under it1 and it is put in place and the operation repeated1 and so continued until the bore of the gun is sufficiently enlarged4 ,pieces of thin files1 broken to length and with the ends ground to fit the rod1 have been used for draw-boring1 but the best and most effective tool is a bit of steel filed up to shape and properly fitted4 ,one half of the cutting teeth should point forward and the other half backward1 so that the cutter will remove some of the metal as it works in either direction1 forward or back4 ,if the cutter be an inch long1 about three or four teeth may point one way1 and as many the reverse direction4 ,in using these tools1 keep them well oiled1 to prevent tearing into the metal4 ,choke-,boring4--,the method of making a choke-bore is similar to quick-boring1 except the cutting end of the rod does not go quite through the barrel1 being withdrawn and again inserted with a slip of paper placed between the slip of wood and the cutter4 ,this is worked not quite so far as the previous boring1 being withdrawn and another slip of paper placed between the wood and the cutter1 and this is worked in as far as desired4 ,care must be taken that the choke be gradual and even4 ,a finish can be given by folding a piece of fine emery cloth or emery paper around a rod1 and by turning this in the barrel1 equalize any unevenness that may occur4 ,to enlarge the interior of a barrel1 boring it choked at both breech and muzzle1 push the rod to the distance from the breech the enlarging is to commence1 and then commence boring1 leaving off where the muzzle choke is to commence4 ,if the bore of a barrel is made to taper from muzzle to breech1 it will scatter4 ,if made to taper too much from breech to muzzle1 it will compress the shot1 and by so doing mangle or deface them so that they will 8shoot wild10 while at the same time the effect on the gun will be to spring the barrel1 and1 if it be thin at the muzzle1 as generally made1 there is danger of enlargement of the bore at this portion of it4 ,choke-,dressing a ,gun ,barrel4--,a very slight variation in the size of the bore of a gun-barrel at one of its ends often has a marked effect on its shooting4 ,in case where a shotgun is disposed to 8scatter0 too much1 the remedy lies in enlarging the bore at the breech4 ,choke-boring would be the means resorted to where such an operation was convenient2 but where not1 choke-dressing may be made to answer a very good purpose4 ,this consists in dressing out the breech with fine emery paper or cloth1 wrapped upon a round wooden rod4 ,a little oil should be used in finishing the dressing1 which need not extend above half the length from the breech to the muzzle4 ,no particular attention need be given as to the slope1 as the size of the bore1 under this operation1 is sure to be left largest at the breech4 ,barrels most ,suitable for ,choke-,boring4--,laminated steel barrels are the most suitable for choke-bore guns1 being harder and more tenacious than ,damascus1 and1 therefore1 resist the repeated strain of heavy charges better2 they will be found to be more durable1 and lead less than barrels of softer material4 ,barrels of plain steel1 or decarbonized steel1 so called1 should never be used for choke-bore guns1 as they are unsafe for guns with light muzzles4 ,decarbonized steel is most suitable for rifles1 where great strength of metal is employed4 ,the finest pattern in ,damascus is not always desirable1 as the excessive twisting necessary to make the fine pattern often weakens the fibre of the metal4 ,freeing ,gun ,barrels4--,it is often desired to free a barrel at the muzzle1 or at both breech and muzzle2 and the amount to be removed is so very little that it is hazardous to insert the boring bit for fear of removing too much4 ,it is easily accomplished in this manner3 ,select a straight wood rod that does not quite fill the bore of the gun and saw a slit with a fine saw at one end1 for about three or four inches1 and parallel with the length of the rod4 ,cut strips of fine emery paper1 or emery cloth1 the width of which should be the same as the length of the slot1 insert one end in the slot and wrap the projecting part around the rod1 introduce this end into the barrel and work it up and down1 if it be desired to finish the barrel that way1 or turn it around by means of a bit stock or lathe if the finish is to be thus done4 ,many gunsmiths cast soft lead at the end of a rod1 using the muzzle of the gun as a size mould1 and after removing from the barrel1 apply oil and fine emery1 and with this work the inside of the barrel4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #bh4 ,another ,method4--,there is another plan4 ,make a rod of soft pine wood that almost fills the bore and make a small hole1 say about one-eighth of an inch diameter at the point where the saw kerf is to terminate4 ,cover this portion of the rod with good glue1 made thin1 and then roll it in the emery1 the same as making an emery wheel or a buff-stick4 ,when dry use it in the same way as the other forms of rod4 ,when desired to increase the size1 which will be necessary1 a thin wedge can be inserted in the saw-kerf and pressed deeper in as the bore increases1 or near as the rod diminishes its size4 ,by wrapping the rod with fine twine where the hole is made there will be no danger of splitting the rod when the wedge is pushed in4 ,the same form of wedge can be used in the rod first described1 and at the same time the wedge will help keep the emery cloth or paper in place4 ,the cut1 ,fig4 #bh1 shows the rod as ready to receive the coating of emery4 ,finishing ,muzzles of ,gun-,barrels4--,to shorten a barrel1 the general custom is to cut it off with a three-square file1 by filing a groove around it1 or else saw it off with a hack-saw2 the latter method being preferable1 as by sawing completely through the barrel the piece is removed with no temptation to sever it by bending1 as is often the case when cutting off with a file4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #bi4 ,after the piece is removed use a tool like the one shown in ,fig4 #bi1 to square up the end4 ,this tool has a cutting part an inch in diameter and about an inch long4 ,it is turned smaller back of the cutting portion1 to make it lighter or better to handle4 ,a hole1 three-eighths of an inch diameter1 is made centrally in the cutting end1 and in this hole are inserted iron or brass plugs made to fit1 and the other end of a size to fit the bore of different guns4 ,after the barrel is squared up1 bevel the inner edge of the muzzle with the tool1 ,fig4 #cj1 which is nothing more than a common 8rose-head10 and is made with similarly formed cutting teeth4 ,about sixteen teeth are sufficient for these tools4 ,the rose head tool has the cutting end about an inch diameter and nearly the same length1 one-half the length being taken up by the pointed cutting end4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #cj4 ,old ,method of ,straightening ,barrels4--,the old-time method of straightening a gun-barrel was by means of a fine thread of black silk or a hair1 which was passed through the bore of the barrel4 ,this line was drawn tight by being stretched from two ends of a rod of wood or spring steel1 the elasticity of which kept it taut1 and the workman looking through turned the barrel round so as to bring the thread of hair into coincidence successively with every portion of the inner surface4 ,if there existed any concavity in any part of this surface1 the thread would show it by the distance which would there appear between the thread itself and its reflection in the metal4 ,the ,new ,method4--,there is another process of straightening barrels which was explained by a writer in a scientific paper a few years ago1 which is termed 8straightening by the shade10 and by this method barrels can be straightened with a greater degree of precision than by any other known process4 ,the principle is something like this3 ,if we examine a plane mirror for the purpose of ascertaining whether its reflecting surface is a true plane1 we cause objects to be reflected from it to the eye at small angles of incidence4 ,if under these circumstances every part of the mirror gives an image true to nature1 he pronounces it perfect2 for the slightest deviation from a true plane would cause a manifest distortion of the image4 ,in the process of straightening barrels by the shade1 crooks in the bore are detected upon the same principle4 ,the internal surface of the barrel is a mirror1 and whatever objects are reflected to the eye from any portion of it that lies beyond a certain distance1 will be reflected under very small angles of incidence4 ,as the interior surface of the barrel is not a plane mirror1 the reflected image will not be true to nature4 ,if the bore be straight1 the image will have a normal distortion1 which is due to the transverse or cylindrical curvature of the mirror2 while if there be longitudinal flexures or crooks1 there will be an abnormal distortion of the image1 which will reveal the defect4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #ca4 ,when the eye looks into a gun barrel the interior surface appears to be spread out into a plane circular disk1 as far from the eye as the other end of the barrel4 ,through the centre of this disk is a circular orifice1 and surrounding this at equal distances from it and from each other1 respectively1 are several well-defined concentric circles1 dividing the disk into as many bright concentric rings1 each of an apparent breadth1 precisely equal to the diameter of the central orifice which is the other end of the bore as seen by direct vision4 ,the several concentric circles are so many images of the end of the bore reflected to the eye from different points along its length4 ,the first of these circles1 or that nearest the central orifice1 is an image formed by light once reflected4 ,the second1 third1 fourth1 etc41 respectively1 are images formed by light reflected two1 three1 four1 times1 etc4 ,in order to see how these images are formed1 and to find their respective points of location in the bore1 consider that a ray of light from each point in the end of the calibre1 as shown at a1 ,fig4 #ca1 may pass to same point b1 on the other side of the bore1 and be thence reflected to the eye1 thus forming at b1 an image at the end of the bore1 of one reflection4 ,another ray from the same point may pursue the route a1 c1 d1 e1 forming an image at d of two reflections4 ,another ray may take the route1 a1 f1 g1 h1 e1 forming an image at h by three reflections1 and so on for the other images since in the formation of each of these images1 respectively1 the angles of incidence and reflection are equal1 it follows that the focus1 or point of place of the image b1 formed by one reflection of light1 is at one-third of the distance from the eye to the further end of the bore2 that formed by two reflections d1 is one-fifth2 that by three reflections is one-seventh1 and the succeeding ones1 one-ninth1 one-eleventh1 etc41 of the same distance4 ,therefore1 it will be observed that all these images are located within the third part of the length of the bore nearest to the eye4 ,consequently there are two-thirds of the entire length of the bore in which none of these images appear4 ,it is to this part of the bore1 only that the workman directs his attention1 for it is here only that he can cause the 8shade0 to appear which discloses the crooks in the bore if any exist4 ,when this part is straightened1 he inverts the barrel and works from the other end4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #cb4 ,the practical application of the process is made in this manner3 the workman has a rest1 generally consisting of an upright strip of board of convenient height with a ,v cut in its upper end for convenience in resting the barrel in case of rotating it4 ,across a window opposite1 at almost any distance1 say about ten or twelve feet1 is nailed horizontally1 a strip of board like a common lath1 as the horizontal bar of the window sashes where they come together at the middle of the window 7provided there be upper and lower sashes7 will answer nearly as good a purpose4 ,now place one end of the barrel in the ,v of the rest1 look into the bore1 directing the eye to the lower side of it and to the point just beyond the image b2 gradually depress the end held in the hand1 bringing the direction nearer and nearer to the horizontal strip1 or the sash bar as the case may be1 and a dark shade is soon seen as shown at m1 ,fig4 #cb4 ,this is the reflected image of the horizontal strip1 or sash bar1 the curved part of the outline being the image of the straight-edge4 ,depress the end more and more and the shade lengthens to n1 o1 p1 etc4 ,if the bore be perfectly straight1 the shade will always maintain a true and symmetrical parabolic form1 growing more and more pointed at its apex1 until it reaches the further end of the bore4 ,but if there be even the slightest flexure or crook in the bore the parabolic figure of the shade will be distorted4 ,if a distortion be discovered1 the barrel is slowly revolved about its axis as it is retained in the rest2 at the same time slightly elevating and depressing the end held in the hands1 until the shade assumes a form in which the two sides near the apex are equally drawn in toward each other as shown at q4 ,if the crook be considerable the two sides may be drawn quite together1 cutting off a portion of the shade of the apex as at r4 ,this tells that there is a crook at q1 and also tells that the bore is concave downward at that point4 ,it will require some experience to tell how far that point is from the eye1 but when that is learned1 the fore-finger placed upon this point on the under side of the barrel tells where the blow must be given to straighten it as it ought to be4 ,another ,method4--,another method to ascertain if a barrel be straight1 is to insert a slip of card into the muzzle of the gun and then look through the bore to the light4 ,if the slip of card be properly placed the 8shade0 can readily be seen4 ,the card slip need not be more than one-quarter of an inch in width and in length to just fit the muzzle so that it will be retained in place4 ,it must be placed with the edge of the card toward the eye4 ,fitting ,barrels ,together4--,when selecting a pair of gun barrels1 preparatory to joining them for the purpose of making a double-barreled gun1 it is necessary to ascertain if the barrels be of the same length1 and have the same size at breech and muzzle1 and also at points between the breech and muzzle4 ,nearly all shot-gun barrels are ground1 or made some smaller at the centre of their length than at other portions4 ,any one who is not conversant with this may be somewhat surprised on placing a straight-edge along the side of a barrel1 a common musket barrel1 for instance4 ,place the straight-edge on the top or bottom side1 as the right and left hand sides are flattened1 near the breech1 and1 of course1 on these sides the hollowing of the centre is not so readily observed4 ,as the musket barrel has been mentioned1 it may be inferred that two of these barrels are to be joined together4 ,the first step is to cut them off at either end1 to make them of the length desired1 for as issued from the armories for army use1 the barrels are too long to make a gun to be handled with ease and convenience4 ,if they are cut down to the length of thirty or thirty-two inches they will be long enough for sporting purposes4 ,according to the weight of gun desired1 cut from either end2 cut off the breech if a light gun is wanted1 or cut off the muzzle to make a heavy gun4 ,the first step after cutting off and truing up the ends of the barrels1 is to select the two sides to be joined together and file these two sides flat1 more at the breech and less at the muzzle1 until the smaller diameters at the middle just touch each other1 without being so filed4 ,when you have in this way both barrels flattened as nearly alike as possible and as straight as can be done by testing with a straight-edge1 lay both barrels on a level surface1 and see that the flattened places touch each other true and evenly4 ,to know if the flattening has been done parallel with the outside flats at the breech 7supposing these to be left on the barrels7 place a small square on the same surface on which the barrels are laid1 letting the upright arm of the square just touch the outside flat4 ,if the square touch the flat alike from top to bottom1 then the flats are parallel1 but if there be an open space to be seen1 then file away the flat to be joined until the square indicates that both inner and outer flats are parallel4 ,be particular in regard to this1 as it is easier to correct the inner flattened surface than to make parallel the outer one4 ,if the same amount be taken from the breech as from the muzzle1 the point of divergence will not be sufficient for accurate shooting4 ,more must be taken from the breech to allow of this divergence to be extended a greater distance4 ,the flattening at the muzzle does not require to be very great1 yet must be done to some extent2 but1 as before remarked1 this will depend upon the smallness or size of the middle portions of the barrel4 ,it is very doubtful if any two gunsmiths will agree as to the inclination of a pair of barrels4 ,perhaps it would be almost foolishness to insist on any definite or certain inclination1 so that the converging lines would come to a point4 ,as an instance1 let the point of divergence be two and a half yards1 it follows that at forty yards the right barrel1 if the gun were rigidly held as if fixed in a vice1 would throw its charge about six inches to the left of the mark1 and the left barrel1 vice versa4 ,let it be supposed that two barrels are each thirty-two inches in length and one-sixteenth inch thick at the muzzle and three-sixteenths thick at the breech1 it requires the difference four-sixteenths be multiplied by the times the length of the barrels are contained in the forty yards1 this being forty-five1 to ascertain what distance the point of the different lines are from each other4 ,in this case it is eleven and one-quarter inches1 or five inches and five-eighths of an inch from the centre or line of sight4 ,it may be remarked that if the point of convergence be forty yards it will be productive of as good results1 perhaps1 as any other4 ,joining ,barrels ,together4--,after the barrels are fitted together so that they are parallel1 touching each other their entire length and equally in a vertical line1 the next thing in order is to fit the top and bottom ribs4 ,fit the lower thimble or pipe through which the cross-bolt goes and cut the under rib to fit both above and below it1 as this thimble is soldered direct to the barrels1 not to the rib4 ,mark along the sides of the ribs with a sharp scriber1 so as to leave a distinct line on the barrels to indicate their location4 ,file bright and smooth the parts of the pipe and ribs where they are to be joined to the barrels and tin with good soft solder4 ,also tin the barrels where they are to be joined1 and where the ribs come in contact4 ,this is easily done by using a clear charcoal fire and heating the barrels and ribs quite slowly4 ,use muriate of zinc for flux1 and apply the solder with a common soldering copper4 ,if the copper be quite heavy and well heated the ribs can be tinned from the heat of the copper1 as there is no need of putting these parts in the fire4 ,if the barrels be properly heated and the solder beaten out thin on an anvil1 it may be rubbed on the barrels without the aid of the copper4 ,when it melts and flows1 wipe off the surplus with a woolen rag which has been slightly moistened with oil4 ,when the barrels and other parts are nicely tinned1 let them cool1 and then fasten them in place in the manner they are to remain with binding-wire4 ,put a rod of iron through the lower thimble1 and also through the upper thimbles1 if they are to be fastened at this time4 ,the reason of putting in this rod is twofold3 it serves to keep the thimbles straight with the barrels1 so as to properly receive the ramrod1 and at the same time tends to hold the under rib firmly in place4 ,before fastening the parts with binding wire1 fill the space between the top rib and barrels with small pieces of solder1 or what is better1 a small rod of solder like a wire1 but not large enough to interfere with the rib fitting close to the barrels4 ,soldering ,barrels ,together4--,now begin to carefully heat the work1 commencing at the breech1 and when sufficiently hot1 don't heat too fast nor too hot1 apply solder1 using the muriate of zinc as a flux1 to the joinings of the ribs and barrels4 ,if the solder be hammered quite thin it will be readily melted by the heat of the barrels1 and will be 8sucked in0 until the space between the different pieces is completely filled4 ,proceed carefully in this way until the entire length of the barrels is gone over4 ,turn the work often in the fire1 so that all portions are evenly heated4 ,at the muzzle fit and insert a small piece to fill the interstice between the barrels and the top rib4 ,it is necessary that all the space between the top rib and the barrels be completely filled with solder1 or rust will form there1 which will prove of serious detriment to the barrels1 and in time work under the ribs1 throwing them from the barrels if even a little torsion or springing of the barrels should ever take place4 ,during the progress of soldering1 see that the parts are kept pressed close together1 and that they do not spring away from each other by their expansion during heating4 ,a small iron clamp screw placed at the breech and also one at the muzzle1 is very convenient1 as by tightening the screw there is less danger of the parts springing apart4 ,when the breech is soldered and somewhat cooled1 the clamp there placed can be removed4 ,these clamps1 made of malleable iron1 can be obtained at the hardware stores4 ,when the work is soldered and is cool1 wash it well with warm water1 using a stiff brush to remove dirt and all traces of the acid flux that may remain on the work4 ,with a chisel or scraper remove all superfluous solder and brighten the work with emery cloth or paper of different grades4 ,begin with the coarser and finishing with the fine or with flour and emery4 ,why not ,braze ,barrels8--,it was formerly the practice to braze barrels together1 with spelter solder1 at the breech or at both breech and muzzle1 but good workmen condemn the practice1 as heating the barrels to a high heat in order to melt this solder somewhat diminishes the strength of the metal1 and as it is also necessary to again clean and brighten the work after brazing1 and to perfectly brighten the flats where they lie together is not so easy a matter4 ,in the life of the gun1 it was found to be of no real benefit to thus braze them1 as the parts were securely held in place if well soldered with soft solder1 and of late years but very few barrels have been thus brazed4 ,select solder of good quality1 put the work well together1 and the barrels will remain firmly and rigidly in place1 and will not be separated except by unfair means4 ,percussioning4--,the term ,percussioning is used to designate the operations of drilling1 and finishing the cone or nipple seat1 tapping1 putting in the tube or cone 7by some called nipple7 and otherwise finishing up the parts bearing relationship to the cone seat4 ,the first operation1 after ascertaining the locality where to drill the hole for the nipple1 is to drill this hole4 ,if a double gun the nipples must be inserted as near the centre of the breech as possible to get them and have a direct communication1 with no unnecessary angles1 in the passage-way of the flame of the cap to the powder in the chamber4 ,from the bottom of the hole drilled for the nipple a small vent1 as small as can conveniently be made1 must or ought to communicate directly to the powder chamber4 ,the nipple ought to be seated or screwed to the bottom of the hole and the vent be an unbroken continuation of the opening through the nipple4 ,let there be no chamber or reservoir between the bottom end of the nipple and the bottom of the hole in which it is screwed4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #cc4 ,but to return to the drilling4 ,from the axial or central line of the barrel1 this hole must be drilled at an angle of forty-five degrees so that the nipple when inserted shall stand at that angle4 ,in the cut ,fig4 #cc1 a represents the central line of the barrels1 b a line at right angles to this1 and c the angle of forty-five degrees4 ,if the workman have no lathe and is necessitated to use a bit-stock or breast drill1 a piece of iron can be fitted to lay upon the barrels with one end elevated three or four inches with the end turned at an angle in a hole drilled in this end to receive the drill1 which should fill the hole4 ,by clamping this upon the barrels1 inserting the drill in the hole and having a prick mark where the hole is to be made for the nipple1 it forms a reliable guide to insure the correctness of the hole1 and also to get any number of holes alike4 ,to insure the hole to be tapped or threaded properly the guide can be kept in position and the hole tapped after being cupped to form the seat4 ,if a lathe be used to drill the hole1 a piece of wood or an iron forging can be fitted to the spindle against which the work is held and when made of the proper angle and the barrel confined upon it to drill the hole1 no guide is necessary1 as the drill being held in the spindle and the spindle running in its bearings operates upon the same principle as the guide clamped upon the barrels4 ,an upright drill can be fitted with a forging or casting to hold the barrels in the same manner4 ,the size of hole to be drilled ought to be that of the smaller sized nipples1 as in time frequent re-tappings to insert new nipples will enlarge the hole4 ,perhaps a broken nipple may necessitate drilling or cutting out and the thread may be injured somewhat1 so that it may have to be bored out and a new thread made to receive a larger nipple4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #cd4 ,after the hole is drilled it is cupped or a seat formed for the shoulders of the nipple to rest upon4 ,this is done with the tool shown in ,fig4 #cd4 ,the guide is used to get the proper angle of this seat1 the same as in drilling4 ,the stem at the end of the cutting portion of the tool1 enters and fills the hole drilled1 which insures the correct formation of the seat4 ,the tap is held in the guide in the same manner and it follows that the thread has been made at the same angle that the hole was drilled4 ,finishing ,nipple ,seat4--,the filing and finishing of the nipple seat is one in which tastes differ or the price of the work may demand4 ,this hint may be given1 the seating tool must cut a seat large enough to receive the nipple and in filing keep this seat full size1 taking care not to allow the file to take away or reduce any portion of it4 ,a study of this portion of different guns that may come under the observation of the workman is the best guide for forming and shaping these parts4 ,the first effort may be to form a nipple seat from a piece of hard wood shaped like the barrel with its lump1 using the drill1 the seating tool and even the tap1 then finish up with files1 as if it were iron1 and insert the nipple4 ,better to correct a fault in a 8sham0 of wood than spoil a good barrel breech4 ,the ,vent1 in ,percussion ,gun ,barrels4--,when the old flint-lock was pushed to one side by the introduction of the percussion principle1 it was thought by many that there was a difference in shooting and that the flint-lock shot 8smoother0 than its substitute4 ,in the percussion gun there was thought to be more recoil than in the other form of gun4 ,it was supposed that the hermetically closing of the breech1 as the firing took place1 was the cause of this1 and to remedy the matter a small vent was drilled near the locality of the vent or 8touch-hole0 of the old-time arm4 ,a few gunsmiths and many users of arms cling to the vent and could 8not do without it40 ,some claim that this vent is of use1 as it enables air to circulate through the barrel1 after the ignition of the charge4 ,while both these theories are doubted by others1 one thing is quite certain1 it increases the certainty and also aids the rapid ignition of the charge1 as the air contained among the powder and held there in a more or less state of pressure1 being so forced and held by the wadding1 retards in some measure the entrance of the fire from the percussion cap4 ,the vent allows this confined air to escape1 and that is the only real and apparent good that can be accredited to it4 ,in making these vents make them very small1 and in no instance let them exceed a thirty-second of an inch4 ,to prevent their being closed by rust or the debris of burnt powder1 drill a larger hole1 tap a thread in it and screw in a silver wire and then drill the vent through the wire after it has been finished to conform to the shape of the parts adjacent4 ,the ,patent ,breech4--,the patent breech has been the subject of much discussion and much experimenting1 some experts claiming one form to be superior to others1 and then again there are those who set the patent breech aside and claim that the old flat-faced breech-pin is as good as any ever yet made4 ,the formation of the base of the breech-loading shell has been called up as evidence in favor of the latter claim4 ,the two forms are called in question1 and then the query is made1 8,does not the breech-loader shoot better or as well as the patent-breeched muzzle-loader80 ,but the patent breech is in favor with the mass of those who use the muzzle-loader1 and no doubt has its advantages4 ,the attempt has been made to form the interior base of a cartridge for breech-loaders upon the model of the interior of a patent breech1 but thus far has not come into very extensive use4 ,form of the ,chamber or ,cup4--,while many forms of the chamber or cup of the patent breech are in use1 the most simple form1 and the one easiest to make1 is that of an inverted elliptical cone4 ,this form may be represented by the shape of an acorn if it were cut off even with the top of the cup4 ,the shape is also one that will not weaken the breech nor affect the strength of the thread where it enters the barrel4 ,the tool to shape it is easy to make4 ,turn a piece of steel the exact shape the 8cup0 is to be and then make a cutting tool of it by filing a groove on two sides1 exactly like a flat drill of the required elliptical form1 but with a 8bulge0 or cheek left on each side1 and then file a groove mid-way in this cheek from point to base1 and make it so as to form two cutting edges on each side of the cut first made4 ,each prominent part must be formed into cutting edges1 like the cutting edges of a conical-shaped cherry to cut out bullet moulds4 ,the cut1 of bullet cherry1 ,fig4 #ga1 ,chapter ,,xxvii1 shows the way to make this tool4 ,with this form of 8cup0 there is great solidity of breech1 and there need be but little fear of miss-fire or hang-fire in shooting1 if the gun be properly loaded4 ,,chapter ,,xvii4 ,,tools ,,for ,,breeching ,,guns4 ,breeching ,reamers4--,the form of breeching reamers is shown in ,fig4 #ce4 ,the extension is supposed to fill the bore of the gun1 and when it does so the tool will make a cut that is straight and true4 ,when this extension does not fill1 then slip a brass ferrule or a piece of tubing on it1 or it may be even wrapped with a piece of card or strong paper1 as mentioned in case of taps that have extensions smaller than the bore of the gun4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #ce4 ,the size of these reamers must be to suit the taps2 that is they must be of a size corresponding to the tap if the thread were removed4 ,the length of the extension may be about an inch1 and the cutting portion of a length to correspond to the length of the breech-pins1 for when using them where the reamer has entered the barrel until it is flush or even with the length of the cutting part1 it is evident that it has penetrated as far as it ought to go4 ,be careful to keep the reamer well oiled when using it to ream out a breech4 ,in making these reamers1 turn them to the size and shape1 and then file four spiral flutes1 equi-distant from each other1 with a small round file1 but remember to file them 8right hand10 like a right hand screw thread4 ,about a quarter's turn in the length is sufficient4 ,the end where the cutting is done must be 8cut back0 between each flute1 so as to make a cutting edge1 or lip4 ,the flutes serve to carry the chips away from the work1 and prevent clogging4 ,above the end of the cutting portion1 the reamer may be turned down to a size a little larger than the extension1 and it will be then a very easy matter to nicely cut the flutes with a round file1 as directed4 ,breeching ,taps4--,the usual diameters of rifle breech pins are three-eighths1 one-half1 and five-eighths of an inch2 of shot guns three-quarters and seven-eighths of an inch4 ,the thread of the rifle is generally fourteen to the inch1 and the shot gun sixteen to the inch4 ,the breech pins of military arms vary4 ,some are made with coarse thread and some with fine thread1 ranging from ten to eighteen threads per inch4 ,there is no arbitrary rule for breeching guns1 and excepting ,english made guns1 almost every conceivable size and thread may be found in guns that are brought in to be repaired4 ,in rifle and shot guns the fourteen and sixteen thread will be found to predominate4 ,in unbreeching guns that have been made by 8experts0 of some country town1 who built the arms 8to order10 or in overhauling guns that have been repaired at the same kind of establishments1 it will not be uncommon to find threads in the barrels that have been cut with a blacksmith's taper tap1 and the pin tapered to suit the thread so formed4 ,it will be nothing uncommon to find a breech that is made to one side of the bore1 or made with a crooked thread4 ,if tapped with the taper tap1 the thread may be found to be ten or twelve to the inch1 according as a tap to fit the breech could be found4 ,let the workman discard all such ways of breeching guns4 ,let him procure a set of taps of the sizes and threads as noticed at the beginning of this article1 and 8stick to these sizes40 ,if the thread in a gun be worn1 and the pin be loose or leak fire1 then ream out the old thread1 cut it anew1 and put in a new pin4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #cf4 ,breeching taps should be made in pairs1 one tapered a little and its mate made straight and with a full thread1 so as to cut full at the bottom where the thread terminates4 ,if the first tap be not tapered a little1 the thread should be nearly all removed at the end1 and gradually increased for five or six threads1 when it will be of full size4 ,a stem or projection is made as shown in the cut1 ,fig4 #cf1 which enters and fills the bore of the gun and so serves to insure a thread straight with the barrel4 ,if the bore be larger than the extension1 slip over it a piece of brass tube or a ferrule of some kind1 until it fits a little snug in the bore4 ,if but little be wanting to make the fit1 a piece of writing paper or a bit of card may be wrapped around it4 ,old-fashioned gunsmiths have been known to wind tow around an extension to make a fit4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #cg4 ,the diameter of these extensions must be that of the smallest bored gun in which they will be used4 ,the extension of the shot-gun tap may be about half-inch diameter4 ,the length of the extension may be about an inch for rifles and an inch and a quarter for shot guns1 the thread about an inch in length4 ,the whole length of rifle taps may be about three and a half inches1 for shot-guns about four inches4 ,breech ,pin ,formers4--,these tools are made of steel and have holes drilled through them and cutting teeth formed on one end 7as shown in ,fig4 #cg74 ,in use it may be held stationary1 and the breech-pin turned in the hole until the teeth form it to size and remove enough in length for the screw to be cut on the pin4 ,eight teeth are enough for the smaller sizes of these tools4 ,if made with more teeth they are consequently finer and shallower and do not operate so well1 or cannot be ground to an edge or sharpened with an oil stone if they become dull4 ,the sizes must correspond with the size of the breech taps1 or a little less than this size1 as the dies used in cutting generally 8raise0 a thread a little larger than the work4 ,the length of these tools may be about three-fourths of an inch or an inch1 as may be best to make them4 ,in use they can be held in a lathe chuck and the pin presented to them while running1 or the operation may be reversed1 the pin being rotated and the cutter held stationary4 ,if to be used by hand1 hold them in a vise or clamp1 or make a fixture to hold the pin1 using a bit-stock for turning them for cutting4 ,the advantage of these tools is that the work is done quick1 the body of the pin is of the same diameter1 and the shoulder where it abuts against the barrel is true with the body2 using a file for the work1 it is difficult to produce these requirements4 ,,chapter ,,xviii4 ,,tools ,,for ,,chambering ,,breech-,,loading ,,barrels4 ,when chambering barrels for breech-loaders1 the utmost care should be observed to make the chamber exactly concentric with the bore1 and have it smooth and well finished4 ,do not trust to a drill or a flat reamer2 neither will a half-round or a common fluted reamer answer the purpose4 ,take1 for instance1 a bore for a thirty-eight cartridge4 ,fig4 #ch shows the tool for chambering1 and ,fig4 #ci the tool for recessing for the head of the cartridge4 ,the diameter of the tool for chambering is thirteen sixty-fourths4 ,the tool for recessing for the head is seven-sixteenths4 ,the body of the cutting portion is about seven-eighths or an inch long4 ,an extension is formed beyond the cutting part which must exactly fill the bore of the barrel and serves as a guide to insure the cutting part making the chamber in proper relation to the bore4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #ch4 ,the neck or recess in front of the cutting part is for a three-fold purpose2 it forms a receptacle for the chips or cuttings1 which otherwise would clog the tool as soon as the teeth were filled1 and would probably result in a rough surface by being forced between the wall of the chamber and the tool back of the teeth2 it also serves to produce a better shaped tooth1 which is done with a fine cut three-square file1 and finally by the teeth being made below the surface of the extension a square cut is produced with no feather edge where the chamber terminates4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #ci4 ,the cutting teeth of the chambering tool are made so as to produce a bevel at the end of the chamber1 and by this means avoid shaving the ball1 as would be the case if it passed over a sharp angle4 ,the recessing tool is made square on the cutting end4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #dj4 ,for larger bores than a forty-four1 the tools may be advantageously made a little different1 as shown in ,fig4 #dj4 ,the shank of the tool may be made of a cheaper grade of steel and the extension much smaller than the bore of the gun4 ,at a1 is shown a steel thimble that is turned to the proper size and has teeth cut on the end4 ,this is tempered and is put on over the extension and held by a wire or pin passing through both thimble and extension4 ,at b is another thimble1 made preferably of brass1 that fits the bore4 ,it can then be worked in the barrel with less fear of scratching the barrel1 as might be the case if it were of steel or iron4 ,the space left between the brass thimble and the teeth forms a recess to receive the cuttings4 ,the diameter of a twelve gauge chambering tool will be about forty-nine sixty-fourths1 and the diameter of the chambering tool will be about twenty-seven thirty-seconds4 ,the length of the cutting thimbles can be about one inch4 ,the brass thimbles about three-quarters of an inch4 ,the cutting thimbles should rest against a shoulder1 as at c4 ,these thimbles should be fastened1 a finish turned on the shanks on which they are to remain1 after the shanks are turned4 ,the brass thimbles are held by being driven on the extension1 and should be turned up true after being driven in place4 ,when making these tools1 form the cutter for the chamber about one-hundredth of an inch larger than the bore of the cartridge to allow for easy extraction4 ,the brass thimbles ought to be of the size of the interior of the cartridge1 which is supposed to be exactly the same as the bore4 ,the tool for recessing the head may be a trifle larger1 say about a thirty-second1 than the diameter of the cartridge head4 ,if it be made one-sixteenth larger it will not matter4 ,eight cutting teeth are enough for these tools4 ,,chapter ,,xix4 ,,on ,,gun ,,ribs4 ,how to ,straighten a ,gun ,rib4--,gun ribs1 as received from the manufacturer or dealer1 are more or less crooked and winding and must be made straight before being fastened to the gun barrel4 ,sometimes this straightening can be done with the hands alone1 by bending and twisting the rib4 ,if there are short crooks1 the hammer must be used4 ,select a hammer that has a flat pene and this pene must be 8across0 or at right angles to the handle4 ,see that the pene is not too sharp1 but smooth and rounded at its edge4 ,place the rib to be straightened on a piece of hard wood plank1 or what is better1 get a piece of two-inch plank about a foot wide and long enough to reach from the floor to a height a little above the work-bench1 say about the height of the top of the vise4 ,it may be held in an upright position by means of a screw passing through it into the bench1 or it can be so held by setting it on the floor and clamping one side between the jaws of the vise4 ,on this hold the rib1 lengthwise with the end of the plank1 and using the pene of the hammer1 strike blows on the inner or curved side of the rib4 ,do not strike hard enough to dent or bruise the rib so as to show on the opposite side4 ,by a little practice a rib can be made very straight and true4 ,how to ,fit a ,rib4--,sometimes one side of a rib is longer than the other4 ,fit it into a properly shaped groove in a piece of board1 clamp it so as to hold firmly and file away the longer side so as to match the narrow one4 ,the clamps can be made of two pieces of wood placed on each side of the part to be filed1 holding them and the rib with wood screws1 the rib being moved along as a portion is filed4 ,how to ,fit a ,rib to an ,octagon ,barrel4--,to fit a rib to an octagon barrel1 file the portion where it comes in contact1 square across so as to have all the surface possible to touch the barrel4 ,to fit it to a round barrel1 file lengthwise with a half-round file1 and so file that the outer edges will fit close1 leaving the inner edges a little open1 or not quite touching the barrel4 ,a half-round file for fitting ribs to round barrels should have the tang bent toward the flat side so that when the file handle is put on1 it will not interfere with filing4 ,how to ,solder on a ,rib4--,the inner edges of the rib must be filed bright and smooth1 so must that portion where it touches the barrel4 ,bear in mind that solder will not adhere1 unless the surface is made bright4 ,this being done wet a short length of the rib with soldering acid1 warm it to a proper heat in the forge fire1 and with a common soldering copper1 also properly heated1 tin or cover the melted surface with solder4 ,with the acid wet another distance1 say about three inches1 heat and tin this1 and so repeat until the entire length of the rib has been gone over4 ,be careful to have plenty of solder adhering to the inner sides4 ,also be very careful not to heat the rib so as to blue or blacken it1 for when so done no solder will adhere1 and the surface so made must be brightened up again before going any further with the tinning4 ,the next thing to be done is to draw-file the gun barrel where the rib is to be fastened on1 and care must be taken to have the surface bright and clean1 or the solder will not adhere4 ,place the breech end of the barrel in a clean charcoal fire and carefully warm it sufficiently1 wet with the acid1 and with the soldering copper tin over where it was draw-filed4 ,two tests can be applied to learn if the barrel be sufficiently heated4 ,one is that when a drop of acid is put on it will 8sizzle0 or boil2 the other test is to hold it close to the cheek and if a warm 8glow0 of heat is felt from it1 it is hot enough4 ,when the surface is tinned1 and before the barrel is cold enough so as to harden the solder1 wipe off the surplus with a rag1 and if the rag be slightly oiled1 it will operate all the better4 ,the solder used is common soft solder such as used by tinsmiths4 ,repeat the process of heating and tinning three or four inches at a time1 until the entire length of the barrel has been gone over4 ,then1 after it is cool1 place the rib in position1 confining it in place with binding wire1 putting it round both rib and barrel1 twisting the ends pretty firmly together4 ,fasten the rib in this way1 at intervals of about six inches1 being careful that the rib is held evenly1 closely and firmly to the barrel4 ,now commence at the breech1 heat both barrel and rib carefully1 avoiding all smoke and soot1 wetting the joint on each side of the rib with the acid1 touching the part with solder taken up on the point of the heated soldering copper4 ,the surplus solder on the inner surface of the rib will flow down to the joint1 between the rib and the barrel1 as it is heated1 and by touching the joint with the copper charged with solder1 the outer edges of the joint will be completely filled1 and both barrel and rib be perfectly united4 ,so continue until the rib is soldered its entire length4 ,when cool remove the binding wires1 and wash thoroughly with warm water4 ,this will remove the acid1 which would otherwise rust the bright surface4 ,wipe dry and if the work is to stand for any length of time1 oil it lightly by rubbing it over with a rag that is moistened with oil4 ,the best way to remove the surplus solder at the joints is by means of scrapers4 ,take an old flat file1 about six inches long1 grind the teeth clean off on each side for an inch or two at the end1 and also grind the end 8square40 ,by using this tool in the same way that a chisel is used1 it is very effective4 ,a scraper made of an old three-square file with the teeth ground away at the end is also a good tool4 ,carefully remove all traces of solder or it will show after the barrel has been used a little4 ,if the work is to be browned1 the browning will not 8take0 where the solder remains4 ,how to ,re-solder ,ribs4--,it often happens that double guns are brought in that have the top rib loosened from the barrels at the breech1 and sometimes the soldering of the barrels1 also at the breech1 has been broken1 so that they are quite separated4 ,the cause of this is generally an effort to remove the patent breeches by some one who has not the proper appliances for the work4 ,the barrels being caught in a vise1 and a monkey-wrench1 or some similar kind of wrench1 applied1 and as the breeches fit very tight1 perhaps being rusted somewhat1 considerable force is applied1 and the torsion or twisting so occasioned starts and separates the parts as described4 ,to re-unite these parts1 remove the breeches1 carefully raise the rib as far as can be done without bending it1 and hold it thus in place by inserting a slip of wood so as to retain it4 ,use a slim-pointed scraper and scrape bright and clean the surface of the rib1 and both barrels1 where the rib comes in contact4 ,tin the parts with a heavy soldering copper1 but do not put them in the fire to heat them2 rely solely on the heat of the copper1 taking time to do the work4 ,when nicely tinned1 put the rib in place1 confining it with binding wire1 and finish the soldering in the forge fire1 the same as when putting on new ribs4 ,before putting the rib in place1 fill the space between the rib and barrels pretty full of solder1 cut in strips1 like pieces of wire4 ,if necessary1 use the copper to assist the soldering1 as they are being worked in the fire4 ,a scraper for such work may be made of a small three-square file1 say about four inches long2 grind the sides so as to remove the teeth1 and sharpen to a point4 ,as a precaution against starting the rib from the barrel by heating1 put pieces of binding wire tightly around1 both above and below1 twisting them tightly4 ,with this security there will be no harm done even if the solder be melted between rib and barrel1 in proximity to the thimble4 ,height of ,ribs4--,the only way to ascertain the proper height of a gun rib1 when put on the barrels1 is to take the length of the barrels1 and from this length make the calculation1 as different lengths require some difference in height of rib4 ,it is to be supposed that forty yards is the distance from the shooter to the object fired at1 and at this distance a heavy charge of shot will drop about twelve inches4 ,as the sights on shot guns are fixed1 it is necessary that the rib be so elevated as to compensate for this dropping of twelve inches4 ,of course a lighter charge of shot will not drop so much as the heavy one1 but the calculation may be based on the heavy charge4 ,to ascertain the elevation at the breech1 take the thickness of the breech and muzzle and multiply the difference by as many times as the length of the barrels is contained in the forty yards4 ,this gives the elevation of the barrels without the rib1 and the difference must be made out by elevating the rib4 ,many shooters complain that when their barrels have been shortened the shooting is not the same1 and they lay this fault to the barrels being cut shorter1 when it is often due to the difference of elevation from that they were accustomed to use4 ,suppose a pair of barrels were to be shortened1 say1 four inches1 at the same elevation there will be more lengths in the forty yards1 hence a difference in the sighting and consequently in the shooting4 ,the calculation for the elevation of ribs is the same as that given for fitting barrels together1 and the same principles there given will apply to this subject4 ,,chapter ,,xx4 ,,on ,,thimbles4 ,how to ,make ,thimbles4--,what is called a thimble by gunsmiths is the short tube1 soldered1 or otherwise attached to the gun barrel1 which retains the ramrod in place when not in use4 ,to make these thimbles1 form them on a piece of steel about a foot long1 turned tapering2 the large end being about nine-sixteenths1 and the small end about five-sixteenths of an inch in diameter4 ,this will answer for about all sizes of wooden rods as they are purchased4 ,these rods are generally1 the largest of them1 about five-eighths of an inch diameter at the large end and about three-eighths at the small end4 ,the thimbles may be made of brass1 iron1 or ,german silver1 according to taste1 but iron is generally preferred4 ,take common sheet or ,russia iron1 the same as used for making stove-pipe4 ,the best thickness is about twenty-two or twenty-three1 by the ,english gauge4 ,for convenience1 get the sheet cut in strips from an inch to an inch and a-half in width--the tinsmith's squaring shears being a ready means to cut up the sheet into strips4 ,generally make the upper thimble about an inch and a half long1 and the lower or middle thimbles1 be these one or two1 a little narrower1 say1 about an inch4 ,for permanency and looks a long thimble is preferable4 ,cut off pieces from the strips of sheet-iron1 just long enough to go around the ramrod1 then roll them up like a tube by bending them around a tapered steel rod1 using a small hard wood mallet for the purpose1 holding them in the vise to assist in the operation4 ,for rifle rods1 which are not tapered1 the thimbles may be rolled up on a straight piece of steel1 a trifle larger than the rod1 so that the rod will slide easily within when put in place4 ,take pains in forming them1 so that the fold or joint will come evenly and squarely together4 ,how to ,put ,thimbles on ,barrels4--,file bright and tin the thimbles where they are to be joined to the rib4 ,observe if the thimbles fit the rod properly by putting the rod in them and then inserting the rod in place in the gun stock4 ,mark the place on the rib or barrel where the thimbles are to be fastened1 and remove both rod and thimbles from the gun4 ,if to be attached to a rib1 file a spot the length of the thimbles where it was marked1 and file it of a depth equal to the thickness of the metal of which the thimble is made4 ,too deep filing may cut through the rib1 and too little filing will leave the thimble projecting above the rib1 so that the rod will hit or rub as it is being pushed down in place4 ,also let the joint of the thimble come in the centre of the rib when it is soldered in place4 ,tin the places filed1 by heating the barrel carefully over the forge fire1 using the soldering acid as for tinning the thimbles4 ,a common tinner's soldering copper is best to apply the solder4 ,when the barrel is cool enough to handle put the thimbles on the rod1 and the rod in place as it is intended to be when finished4 ,confine the thimbles to the barrel with pieces of binding wire1 using two pieces to a thimble1 one at each end4 ,by putting the rod into the thimbles and confining them thus1 there is no danger of their being 8askew0 after being fastened1 and by putting on two wires there is less danger of their moving while being soldered to the barrel4 ,make a clear fire in the forge1 using charcoal if it can be obtained1 heat the barrel very carefully until small pieces of solder will be melted when placed on the inside of the thimble4 ,have the soldering copper heated1 and by using it and applying the acid an even amount of the solder can be applied to the joint outside the thimble where it joins the barrel4 ,when all are soldered let the barrel cool1 remove the binding wires and wash with warm water to remove the acid flux1 which would rust the work4 ,a stiff brush is best to wash with4 ,scrape off the superfluous solder1 rub the thimbles bright with emery-cloth1 or let them remain the black color1 as may be desired4 ,,chapter ,,xxi4 ,,on ,,rifling ,,of ,,guns4 ,importance of ,rifling4--,in a rifle the grooving is of the utmost importance2 for velocity without accuracy is useless4 ,to determine the best kind of groove has been1 accordingly1 the object of the most laborious investigations4 ,the ball requires an initial rotary motion sufficient to keep it 8spinning0 up to its range1 and is found to gain in accuracy by increasing this rotary speed2 but if the pitch of the grooves be too great1 the ball will refuse to follow them2 but being driven across them1 8strips0--that is1 the lead in the grooves is torn off1 and the ball goes on without rotation4 ,the ,english gun-smiths avoided the dilemma by giving the requisite pitch and making the grooves very deep1 and even by having wings or lugs cast on the ball to keep it in the grooves--expedients which increase the friction in the barrel and the resistance of the air enormously4 ,the ,american gun-makers solved the problem by adopting the 8gaining twist10 in which the grooves start from the breech nearly parallel to the axis of the barrel1 and gradually increase the spiral1 until1 at the muzzle1 it has the pitch of one revolution in three to four2 the pitch being greater as the bore is less4 ,this gives1 as a result1 safety from stripping1 and a rapid revolution at the exit1 with comparatively little friction and shallow groove-marks on the ball1 accomplishing what is demanded of a rifled barrel1 to a degree that no other combination of groove and form of missile ever has4 ,there is no way of rifling so secure as that in which the walls of the grooves are parts of radii of the bore4 ,they should be numerous1 that the hold of the lands1 or the projection left between the grooves1 may divide the friction and resistance as much as possible1 and so permit the grooves to be as shallow as may be4 ,fig4 #da represents grooves cut in this way1 but exaggerated to show more clearly their character4 ,in the ,kentucky rifle this law is followed1 except that for convenience in rifling1 the grooves are made of the same width at the bottom and top1 as shown in ,fig4 #db1 which is1 for the grooves of the depth of which they are generally made1 practically the same1 the depth in the cut being two or three times that generally used4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #da4 ,u4 ,s4 ,rifling ,machines4--,the rifling machines in use by the ,u4 ,s4 ,government at the ,springfield ,armory for cutting their grooved rifles may thus be described3 ,the barrel is placed in a horizontal position in an iron frame1 and held there very firmly4 ,the grooves are made by three short steel cutters placed within three mortices1 made to receive them1 near the end of a steel tube which is moved through the bore of the barrel by slow rotary and progressive motion4 ,the cutters are narrow pieces of steel having upon one side three angular shaped teeth about one-sixteenth of an inch in height1 and of the width of the groove1 ground to a very sharp edge at the top4 ,it is these which produce the rifling4 ,the three cutters1 when inserted in the tube1 form upon their inner surface a small opening which decreases toward the inner end4 ,into this is inserted a tapered steel rod1 and is so controlled by a connecting cog-wheel that this rod is pushed1 at every revolution1 a little further into the tapered opening formed by the inner edges of the three cutters4 ,the effect of this is to increase the pressure of the cutters upon the inner surface of the barrel1 and thus gradually1 at each stroke of the machine1 deepen the cuts as produced by the rifling4 ,the rod makes about twelve revolutions in a minute and it occupies about thirty minutes to rifle a barrel4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #db4 ,old-,fashioned ,rifling ,machine4--,but the gun-maker who builds rifles to order1 and perhaps then but a single one at a time1 uses quite a different apparatus for rifling1 although the principle involved is the very same4 ,many of the old gunsmiths made their own rifling machines4 ,the simplest form was a common joist1 two inches thick and six inches wide4 ,the length about twice that of any barrel to be rifled4 ,at one end1 on the narrow side1 was fixed in two bearings1 one at each end so as to turn freely1 an old rifle barrel4 ,at the other end of the timber1 in a line with the barrel was fixed two standards in which to firmly fasten the barrel to be rifled4 ,at the end of the old rifle barrel1 and on the end nearest to the end of the timber was fixed a circular plate of iron1 like a wheel which was made with divisions on its circumference1 and had a catch which was fastened to the wood1 and when the end of this catch engaged one of the divisions it would firmly hold the barrel in place4 ,when this plate was turned the barrel also turned4 ,inside of this barrel was placed a rod of iron1 around which was cast some soft metal1 as babbit metal or old type metal1 or even lead4 ,this was done by putting the rod in the barrel and then pouring in the metal when melted4 ,a handle1 similar to an auger handle was fixed transversely to one end1 but in such a manner as to turn around freely on the rod4 ,as the rod was pushed back and forth the soft metal followed the rifling grooves1 and this caused a turn1 first in one direction and then in another4 ,by the rod being loose on the handle the hands were held in the same position4 ,the rifling rod was attached to the opposite end of the rod in the old barrel and carried a cutter let into a narrow groove made in the extreme end of the rifling rod4 ,very often these rods were made of wood like a straight ramrod4 ,it is evident if a barrel be placed in the clamps and the rifling rod bearing a suitable cutter be entered in the bore of the barrel and the rod thrust forward by pushing it with the handle1 that a faint spiral like cut will be the result4 ,when the cutter had done its work1 or done all that it would cut1 the plate was turned one division1 rotating the old barrel with the rifling rod just that amount1 the barrel to be rifled1 of course1 not being turned at all4 ,another cutting was done like the first one1 then another1 and so on until the complete circle of the divisions had been made1 and a certain number of faint rifles made in the fixed barrel4 ,the cutter was then removed from its slot1 a slip of writing paper placed in the bottom of the slot and the cutter put in place and a repetition of the same operation gone over again1 and then repeated until the rifling was of the desired depth4 ,oil was supplied to the centres while going back and forth in their work4 ,gain ,twist ,rifling ,machine4--,what is called a gain twist was made with a slightly different apparatus4 ,what is termed a 8lead0 was fixed so as to revolve in standards1 and at the same time be capable of being thrust forward and pulled back to its starting place4 ,this lead carried at one end the rifling rod4 ,at the opposite end the handle for operating it1 was fixed4 ,the lead was several inches in diameter and the holes in the standards that supported it of like diameter4 ,one make of lead had a groove cut spiralling in its surface and exactly the same as the rifling to be made4 ,in one of the standards a stud was fixed that entered the groove and compelled it to turn according as the groove was made4 ,the barrel to be rifled was fixed so as to turn as needed to make the different rifles or grooves4 ,another make of lead had a rib made of a strip of hard wood that was bent around the rod and was held in place by screws4 ,this rib was the counterpart of the rifling and was received in a mortice cut for it in one of the standards1 the management of the rifling rod being the same in all cases4 ,re-rifling4--,one method of re-rifling is to make a rod with a mortice in one end to receive a rifling cutter or 8saw0 as some term them1 and fix at the other end a handle like an auger handle1 but so fixed that the rod will turn around freely no matter how the handle may be held4 ,this rod is inserted in the barrel to be re-rifled and the cutter forced through one of the rifles1 which must be deep enough to force it to follow its direction when pushed forward and pulled back until it would cut no more1 it would be placed in another rifle and so continued until the circuit of the rifling is made4 ,a slip of paper is then put under the cutter and a repetition of the process made and continued until the rifles are cut as deep as desired4 ,if it be feared that the rifles1 opposite to those where the cutter is at work1 will be injured by its bearing upon them1 a dove-tailed groove is made across the rod opposite where the cutter is placed1 and in this is fitted a slip of wood that is cut to fit the curvature of the base of the barrel4 ,if a bit of half-round file or a cutter be made to be inserted in place of the slip of wood1 the lands can be finished at the same time that the grooves are being cut deeper4 ,when barrels are so worn that the rifles have not depth enough to hold the tool described for re-rifling1 another process must be resorted to4 ,make a rod of hard wood about six or seven inches long and so as to slide easily through the barrel4 ,in one end of this fix the cutter4 ,around the other end cast lead or other soft metal so as to fill the rifles4 ,it is evident if this short rod be forced through the barrel by means of a longer one1 that it must turn with the rifling1 being so forced to do by the soft metal engaging the several rifles4 ,the operation of working being the same as previously described4 ,,chapter ,,xxii4 ,,on ,,gun ,,locks4 ,quality of ,locks4--,it is impossible to judge the quality of a gun lock by a mere examination1 for if the metal be not the very best and the workmanship be also good1 some portions1 as a spring1 may grow weak and in an unguarded moment give way4 ,if the mainspring be not thoroughly tempered it may break the first time it be used on a frosty morning4 ,it is well to see if the attachment of the stirrup or swivel be well made and fitted1 as this controls the movements and play of the mainspring4 ,the fitting of the sear spring on the sear is important4 ,if too much cramped1 it may give way2 if not enough cramped1 then it may grow weak and there will not be that sharp1 clear click that the admirer of a good lock likes to hear4 ,on the hanging of the swivel or stirrup depends the smoothness of play of the mainspring4 ,on the placing of the hole for the sear-pin depends the sweetness of the sear operating on the tumbler4 ,on the pitching of the sear depends the cutting of the notches of the tumbler1 and on the formation of the first notch depends the liability of the lock catching at half-cock when the trigger is made to be easily pulled from the full cock notch4 ,on the formation of the half-cock notch depends the safety of carrying the arm at half-cock4 ,the ,back ,action ,lock4--,there are various forms of gun locks1 and each form has its admirers4 ,the back action shown in ,fig4 #dc admits of the arm being put together more strongly and securely than any other plan4 ,other advantages claimed for it are that the mainspring can be made longer and will therefore be less liable to break1 and by such length has a smoother working motion to the hammer4 ,as the lock plate is almost entirely surrounded by the wood of the stock1 there is less liability of wet getting into the interior1 and this may especially be the case as the hand1 in carrying the gun1 covers some portion of the lock4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #dc4 ,the ,bar ,lock4--,this lock1 ,fig4 #dd1 is so called from a bar formed at the breech end of the barrel1 and to this bar the lock is fitted4 ,the great advantage of this lock is that it admits of the stock to be so shaped that the grasp of the hand naturally tightens as the gun is raised to the shoulder4 ,the objection raised by some to this lock is that it is more pervious to wet than the back action lock4 ,this lock possesses the advantage of having an arm of the tumbler so made that by the swivel or stirrup being hung upon that when the lock is at full cock the weight of the spring force is lessened by the arm acting as a lever to bring the moving force in the immediate vicinity of the axis on which the tumbler turns1 and when the spring is bringing the hammer down on the nipple1 increasing that force by divergence4 ,it is sometimes called the ,full ,bar ,lock4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #dd4 ,side ,action ,lock4--,in ,fig4 #de is shown another form of lock1 commonly called a side action4 ,the mechanism and arrangement is similar to the full bar1 but it has a shoulder that fits up to the barrel4 ,if the gun be fitted with a plug or cylinder a suitable half round recess is cut in this shoulder to receive the plug4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #de4 ,the ,wesley ,bar4--,the ,wesley bar shown in ,fig4 #df differs from the common bar lock by being of different shape at the fore end1 and this end does not fit up to the barrel like the bar lock4 ,by the wood almost surrounding the plate1 the interior is pretty well protected from wet4 ,it has the same merit of the stock being so shaped as to tighten in the hand when raised to take sight4 ,this lock has one objection1 the wood between the lock-plate and barrel has to be cut so thin that the recoil of the gun is very apt to break and splinter it4 ,the ,central ,lock4--,there is a grade of guns made with locks enclosed in the breech1 or a continuation of the breech1 in the same manner as common revolvers and other pistol locks are made4 ,a view of this lock is given in ,fig4 #dg4 ,the principle is much the same as the back action lock when the hammer is placed on one side as in the back action lock4 ,one side of the frame has the same office as the lock plate1 and the other side supports the tumbler and other parts the same as the bridle4 ,the formation of the tumbler is such that no sear is necessary1 the trigger bearing directly against it2 the point of the trigger having the same office as the nose of the tumbler1 a small spring keeping it to place to catch in the tumbler notches4 ,generally this form of lock has the hammer placed directly in the central line of the bore of the barrel1 and when so placed the lower end of the hammer has the same office as the tumbler and is shaped and has notches cut as in a side lock tumbler4 ,as this form of lock has few parts1 and has a long feather-like mainspring1 it is easy and pleasant to operate4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #df4 ,cleaning ,locks1 etc4--,while the gunsmith will be called upon to clean and repair various parts of fire-arms1 the lock is the part with which he will have considerable to do4 ,and1 in most kind of guns1 it is the most complicated part1 and1 consequently1 the most difficult part to manage4 ,not a few gun-owners look upon it as a kind of mystery without the range of ordinary comprehension1 hence they carry it to the shop1 not only at the slightest indication of 8something wrong10 but so often as it would seem to need thorough cleaning and oiling4 ,this is all well enough1 for the gun as much as anything comes clearly within the application of the rule which admonishes that 8a stitch in time saves nine40 ,all of which being the case1 one of the earliest things that the gunsmith will be called upon to study will be ,illustration3 ,,figure #dg4 ,how to ,take ,down a ,lock4--,having removed the lock from the gun1 set the hammer at full-cock4 ,apply the hand-vise1 or mainspring clamp1 if he has one1 to the mainspring1 having first placed a bit of chamois skin or felt between the jaws of the vise and the spring to prevent bruising or scratching the polished surface of the latter4 ,turn up the vise gently until the hammer feels loose4 ,now press upon the sear-spring and let down the hammer4 ,the mainspring is now entirely loose1 and may be lifted out with the vise4 ,this ends the complication of the lock2 it is now only a plain machine1 with parts held into position by screws1 which may be removed one at a time until every piece has been taken from the plate4 ,in taking down a lock the beginner should work slowly and cautiously1 thinking in every case before acting4 ,his screwdriver should be pressed well-down in the notch of every screw to prevent damage to the head1 and if he apprehends the slightest danger of getting 8things mixed10 he should lay each screw and its piece in different places upon his bench4 ,of course1 there will be no such necessity after a few locks have been taken down1 but such a necessity might exist at the very beginning2 at least there is no harm to grow out of taking what is known to be the safe side in every case4 ,the directions given for taking down1 refer to the common lock1 while locks of some of the modern guns will be made on plans quite different4 ,but the principle will be the same1 and hence there is no reasonable demand for going into further detail4 ,the first object will be to get control of the mainspring so that it can be lifted out with ease4 ,this attained1 and all the rest of the work is easy enough4 ,to ,clean and ,oil the ,lock4--,botches usually wipe the old oil and dirt from the parts with a rag1 put on fresh oil1 and then put the lock together again4 ,this is a poor way1 for a portion of the old gummy oil will be left to combine with the new1 thus soon making it about as bad as the old4 ,every part should be thoroughly cleansed and dried before any new oil is used4 ,first wipe the dirt and old oil off as thoroughly as possible with a piece of cloth or felt1 and then rub it over with powdered chalk or ,spanish whiting4 ,next brush off and rub with a stiff brush such as is used by jewelers or watchmakers4 ,this will remove all the old oil1 after which the new oil may be applied4 ,cases may turn up in which the lock has been long neglected1 and the oil and dirt have gummed together so badly as not to admit of wiping off4 ,in such cases the parts should be soaked for a short time in kerosene or in benzine1 which is still better4 ,this will dissolve the gum and render it easy of removal4 ,in oiling1 only oil enough should be applied to lubricate the parts--there is much more danger of getting on too much oil than too little4 ,it should be put on with a stubbed camel's hair brush or pencil1 as the painters call it1 and with extreme lightness4 ,and there is but one kind of oil fit to be used on a lock1 the very best 8watchmaker's oil0 obtainable4 ,such an oil is comparatively costly1 but a single bottle1 costing #be cents1 will oil hundreds of locks1 hence the cost is really not entitled to consideration1 on account of its being so decidedly superior to any other oil in use4 ,how to ,put up a ,lock4--,in taking down the lock the last thing removed was the sear-spring1 perhaps--it is most convenient to make that the last thing4 ,now1 in putting up the lock1 that is the first part to claim our attention4 ,screw the sear-spring into position1 then the sear2 next put in the tumbler1 and then put on the bridle4 ,having this all right1 screw on the hammer and let it down4 ,then take the mainspring1 clamped as it was at the taking down1 hook it on to the swivel1 and bring it up until the little steady-pin is in its hole in the plate4 ,now unscrew the vise and the lock is ready for work4 ,it will be necessary to always handle the mainspring with care4 ,it is the first thing to come off in taking down1 and the last to go on in putting up the lock2 and the vise or clamp must be turned upon it only just enough to bring it loose1 and no more4 ,if more1 it may be damaged1 possibly broken4 ,handling the parts of a lock with chamois skin or paper1 is a good idea1 while brushing off the chalk and rubbing them clean with the brush1 and it is also a good idea not to touch them with the naked fingers afterwards4 ,few gunsmiths would be inclined to take this precaution1 but it is worthy of consideration if one desires to be ranked among the very best and most careful of workmen2 as handling with the naked fingers is apt to leave the parts in such a condition as will cause them to eventually rust1 slightly at least4 ,,chapter ,,xxiii4 ,,on ,,fitting ,,gun ,,hammers4 ,to ,fit a ,hammer on a ,tumbler4--,to file the hole in a gun-hammer so that it will rest firmly and evenly upon the squared end of the tumbler1 has tested the skill and patience of nearly every gunsmith4 ,the usual practice is to drill a hole nearly the diameter of the square of the tumbler1 then file this hole until it fits the square1 and unless skill and patience are brought into requisition1 and a nice fit be the result1 the hammer soon works loose1 then needs refitting4 ,the remedy then generally is1 remove the hammer from the tumbler and close the hole a little by cutting around the squared opening1 a little distance back from the edge1 with a sharp cold chisel1 thus throwing some of the metal inward1 closing the hole a trifle4 ,the hammer is then put upon the tumbler1 and if it be a little tight is driven to place with a hammer4 ,after some usage it becomes loose again1 and has to be again refitted4 ,it is evident that unless what might be called a 8perfect fit0 be made1 that the sudden arrest of the hammer upon the tube or cone1 as it descends by force of the mainspring1 will cause some slight displacement of metal where the hammer and tumbler come in juxtaposition4 ,a repetition of these sudden arrests increases the displacement1 and often there is considerable looseness of the parts4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #dh4 ,the ,drift for ,squaring the ,hole4--,the remedy for this is very simple1 and can be performed with but little labor4 ,after the hole in the hammer is drilled introduce the end of a square drift1 and drive it steadily through with blows of a hammer4 ,the drift will cut a clean hole1 the exact counterpart of its form1 and this hole will need no finishing1 if the drift be properly made to insure its correctness as to being smooth and true4 ,bear in mind that while driving the drift1 the work must rest evenly and solidly upon some firm support1 but in such a way that the tool will easily pass through4 ,the drift is shown in ,fig4 #dh4 ,in construction it is a rod of steel filed or so shaped that its transverse section is of the precise form that the hole is to be made1 and too great care cannot be taken to insure its being as correct as possible4 ,the entering end of the tool should be made round1 and almost fill the hole as drilled in the hammer1 and it should increase gradually in size until it arrives at the full proportions and then gradually decrease to the upper end1 so that it will readily pass through the opening made by the larger portion4 ,on the sides of this tool are cut teeth that extend around it1 being continued from side to side after the manner of a screw thread upon a bolt4 ,it will be observed by reference to the cut that the teeth commence on each side of the square and resemble a four-threaded screw1 with saw-shaped teeth1 made upon a square rod4 ,a file is the most ready tool to cut these teeth4 ,forge the steel carefully1 temper equally1 and do not leave too hard4 ,when properly made it will last for an untold amount of work4 ,the number of cuts or teeth to the inch may be about ten4 ,there must be sufficient depth between the teeth to receive the cuttings1 and they must be made strong enough to withstand the hammer blows4 ,in driving use oil on the teeth1 and be careful to keep it upright1 so as to form a hole that will enable the gun-hammer to stand properly on the tumbler4 ,if it be feared that there will be a variation of the hole from the 8square10 turn the drift a quarter turn after the first driving and drive again2 then turn another quarter and drive the third time1 and so on of the fourth4 ,the drift may be made of almost any shape1 and will produce holes of irregular form as readily as square ones4 ,another example is the mortice in the loop attached under gun-barrels1 through which the bolt passes1 and also the same size mortice or slot in escutcheons1 which are let into the stock1 through which the same bolt passes4 ,the holes in small solid wrenches to receive square or six-sided nuts can be readily and easily made in the same manner4 ,a ,tool for ,fitting ,hammers to ,gun ,locks4--,the usual practice in fitting hammers to gun locks is to measure with the dividers the distance from the centre of the tumbler1 where it projects beyond the lock-plate1 to the centre of the tube or cone1 and so get the length of the hammer2 then drill the hole in the hammer1 square this hole by the rule of 8guess10 and file until it fits upon the square of the tumbler4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #di4 ,a simple tool can be made by any gunsmith1 that will greatly facilitate his operations in fitting hammers4 ,the accompanying cut 7,fig4 #di7 shows this tool in full size4 ,it is made of iron or steel1 one-eighth of an inch thick4 ,the body1 ,a1 of the tool is one-half inch wide1 and has a slot1 a1 three-sixteenths of an inch wide and one inch long4 ,the curved slot1 b1 is the same width1 and embraces about one-fourth of a circle4 ,the nose-piece1 ,b1 is shaped like the top portion of a hammer1 and is held to the body1 ,a1 by a screw1 c1 and to insure its moving in a line1 and being held properly in the slot1 a1 there is a small stud1 d1 that fills the slot4 ,in the lower curved portion of the body1 which is seven-eighths of an inch in diameter1 there is a five-eighths hole1 which receives the round portion of the piece1 ,c4 ,this piece has an extension1 as shown by the dotted lines1 and is held to ,a by a screw1 e4 ,the square hole in this piece is intended to fit the square of the tumbler of the lock4 ,the thickness of ,c1 at the round part where it enters ,a1 is the thickness of both ,a and ,b4 ,there is a shoulder of the thickness of ,b1 and of the size of the body of the tool at the lower end1 being of the same diameter1 so that the back surfaces of ,b and ,c are of the same thickness4 ,the front surface of ,c is flush with ,a4 ,to use the tool1 put the square of the lock tumbler in the square hole of ,c1 and put the tumbler screw in place4 ,loosen the screw1 e1 and turn the piece1 ,c1 until the nose of ,b will rest pretty firmly on the gun-tube2 then turn the screw to hold it in place4 ,loosen the screw1 c1 that holds ,b in place1 and move this piece up or down until the centre of the nose rests squarely on the tube2 then confine it in place by turning up the screw1 c4 ,this is now an exact pattern1 giving the length1 shape of the hammer1 and also a guide to form the square where it fits the tumbler4 ,it must be observed that the screws and the stud1 d1 ought to fill the slots on the shoulder of the piece1 ,c1 a good fit1 so that it will turn evenly and properly in the hole of ,a4 ,the screws may be the same that are used for tumbler screws for army muskets4 ,these screws are hardened1 and1 as they have large flat heads1 they answer for this purpose very well4 ,the part1 ,c1 can be made of two pieces of the same thickness as the other parts4 ,finish them separately1 except the square hole1 and then solder or rivet them together4 ,the square hole is best finished up when the two parts are fastened together4 ,,chapter ,,xxiv4 ,,on ,,nipples ,,or ,,cones4 ,the terms nipple1 cone and tube are applied in rather an indiscriminate manner to that portion of a gun breech on which the copper cap containing the fulminate designed for firing the arm is placed4 ,to be good and serviceable1 the nipple should be made of steel1 and carefully tempered2 but many are made of a low grade of steel1 of common iron1 and even malleable iron has been used1 and case-hardened to render them fit for use4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #ej4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #ea4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #eb4 ,forms of ,nipples4--,there are as many forms of nipples as there are qualities1 and they may be divided into classes1 as the musket nipple 7called 8cone0 by the armory operatives71 the ,american1 ,english1 and ,german4 ,the ,german have coarser threads than the ,american4 ,the ,english musket nipple has a thread or screw of #ah threads per inch2 it has a flat top1 and has a hole of one taper1 being large at the bottom and smaller at the top4 ,the ,american musket tube has a screw of #bd threads to the inch1 has a vent resembling two inverted cones1 meeting with a small opening near the centre4 ,the top of the nipple1 consequently1 resembles a narrow circular ring4 ,fig4 #ej shows the ,english nipple1 and ,fig4 #ea the ,american2 ,fig4 #eb the different forms of vents4 ,nipples for ,breech-loading ,arms4--,for breech-loading arms1 using loose powder and ball1 the nipple is made similar to the ,american1 but the vent is made quite large at the top1 and decreases like an inverted cone1 and terminates in a small opening a little larger than a common pin4 ,in this nipple the fire from the cap is concentrated and caused to rush with some force through the small aperture1 the same as heat is concentrated in a single point by using a blow-pipe for that purpose4 ,the object is to burn through the material of which the cartridge is composed4 ,nipples with ,flat ,tops4--,the use of a nipple with a broad1 flat top requires a vigorous mainspring1 and then quite a volume of the detonating flame escapes outside the nipple and between it and the cap4 ,the small portion that passes down the tube may be so impeded1 if the nipple be foul or rusty1 as to cause the gun to hang fire1 and even to miss fire4 ,should the mainspring be too weak1 the cap will come in contact with the broad surface of the nipple1 forcing the priming of the cap from its position1 and leaving it unexploded4 ,often the cap is made to bear the blame1 when the fault is due entirely to the formation of the top of the nipple4 ,the ,american ,musket ,nipple4--,the ,american musket nipple has a thin edge and a wide opening at the top1 so as to allow the flame to readily enter1 the thin edge enabling the cap to be very readily exploded1 even with the blow from a weak mainspring4 ,in this form of nipple the detonating powder is ignited at the edge1 and being forced to enter the wide opening1 is compelled to pass down the vent to the powder4 ,if there be any little dirt or obstruction1 it is generally forced along with the fire1 and the ignition of the powder is certain1 and miss-fires are few4 ,when nipples are made with the small opening of the vent at the bottom1 coarse-grain gunpowder can be used1 as it is not necessary that the grains need to be admitted to the nipple4 ,this is the case as regards military arms fitted with nipples4 ,the powder is too coarse to be received in the nipple when freed from the cartridge and placed uncovered in the gun breech4 ,it has been claimed by some that gunpowder can be glazed too smooth to readily take fire1 and this is a source of miss-fires4 ,also that the flame from the detonating powder will form a mass of condensed air around itself1 preventing contact with the powder until the heat is expended4 ,this was especially thought to be the fact when there was a volume of air between the powder and the end of the nipple4 ,these two theories are presented for what they may be worth4 ,nipples used in ,sporting ,guns4--,of nipples used in sporting guns there may be found the broad top1 the countersunk top1 the taper bored1 the countersunk taper1 the reverse taper1 double reversed1 etc41 etc4 ,they are generally put up with the screw portion made in assorted sizes4 ,the threads also vary1 being as coarse as #bf to the inch1 and as fine as #cb threads per inch4 ,preparing ,nipples for ,guns4--,it is well for the gunsmith to test the nipples with a fine file to ascertain their hardness before inserting them in guns4 ,if too soft1 they will be returned on his hands4 ,if there is also a liability of the gun-hammer battering the top where it strikes1 which soon is so broad as to cause miss-fires4 ,if too hard1 they are liable to break short off at the square1 and the screw portion left in the gun is difficult to remove4 ,sometimes so much so that it is necessary to unbreech the gun1 remove the patent breech and heat it to soften the portion of broken nipple so that it can be drilled out4 ,in drilling there is a risk of injury to the thread of the nipple seat4 ,the heating necessitates labor to refinish the part and it is to be again case hardened before screwing into the barrel4 ,if found too hard1 nipples can be drawn to a better temper by holding the top portion in a pair of pliers in exposing the bottom part to the flame of an alcohol lamp4 ,if they be too soft1 enclose in a short piece of gas pipe1 pack them well with bone-dust1 stop close the ends of the pipe1 and heat to a red1 letting them remain so for fifteen or twenty minutes and then open the end of the pipe to let the contents fall into water4 ,they can be drawn to temper to suit4 ,they may also be heated hot1 rolled in prussiate of potash or cyanide of potassium1 again heated1 and thrown into water4 ,as cyanide of potassium is a deadly poison1 be very careful how it is used and where it is kept4 ,do not breathe the flames when put on hot iron1 and do not let it come in contact with sores or raw places on the hands4 ,remedy for ,bad ,nipples4--,in case guns come in to be repaired because they will 8not snap a cap10 see if a weak mainspring be not one cause1 and a nipple with broad top1 another4 ,for the latter evil1 ream or counter sink it so as to have a thin cup like edge4 ,see also if the cup of the hammer strikes properly on the nipple1 and that it be not too much cupped by long usage in striking4 ,in this case1 the cup may be filled by drilling in and inserting a bit of iron or steel to fill it and then re-harden4 ,pistol ,nipples4--,pistol nipples1 ,colt's for instance1 have a different thread from gun nipples4 ,the thread used in ,colt's revolver nipples is #dj to the inch4 ,but one size is employed--nipples are sometimes provided with a thin1 round washer of copper1 which is put on at the shoulder where the thread terminates4 ,this shields that part of the seat where it is placed from rust1 and some claim that it acts as a sort of cushion to deaden the blow of the hammer1 thus preserving the nipple from breakage4 ,plugs for ,nipples4--,plugs can be made from a rod of iron of suitable size that is sound and free from flaws4 ,the size of the part that screws into the barrel is about three-eighths of an inch1 and the thread is twenty to the inch4 ,this is the size and thread generally used4 ,there may be exceptions that will require a different size and a different thread1 but1 if possible1 let the sizes given govern the work4 ,the end on which the screw is to be cut can be turned in the lathe1 cut down with a hollow mill in the method given for making breech pins1 or it can even be filed to shape in absence of any other way to make it4 ,before cutting the plug to the length where the nipple is to be seated1 screw it into the barrel1 mark the place for the nipple which can be found by letting down the hammer of the lock1 then remove drill and fit the nipple4 ,cut off all that is not required beyond the nipple and screw into place1 the nipple forming a shoulder on which to rest the wrench in screwing it home4 ,the finished plug is shown in ,fig4 #ec4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #ec4 ,it is best to remove the barrel from the stock in screwing in the plug4 ,with an improper wrench1 it often happens that a nipple will be broken off at the square if it be very hard1 and then it is difficult to remove4 ,to obviate all danger of this1 make a wrench with a handle at each end1 and in the middle have a hole that will fit the plug1 and then file an opening so that it will just fit over the nipple4 ,it should fit close to the nipple at the square1 and be free so as not to have a bearing at the end of the nipple where the cap is put on4 ,plugs are sometimes left bright1 but if blued it improves their appearance and there is less tendency to rust4 ,if desired to be very durable1 case-harden them4 ,the better polish that can be made on them will make a better blue or case-hardened surface4 ,many of the cheap plugs in market are nothing but cast malleable iron4 ,the best material of which to make them is decarbonized steel1 or what is known as 8soft steel40 ,it comes in smooth round rods and is homogeneous and easy to work4 ,cold-rolled iron rod makes very good plugs4 ,the diameter may be half-inch or nine-sixteenths1 the latter size being most preferable4 ,with a three-eighth size screw the half-inch rod gives a one-sixteenth shoulder1 which must fit tight to the barrel4 ,if not fitted tight1 the gas from the powder when the gun is fired will soon cause a leak which is difficult to remedy4 ,in some localities the name plug is discarded and the term 8cylinder0 adopted4 ,,chapter ,,xxv4 ,,mainsprings4 ,mainsprings4--,mainsprings are made for right and left side locks1 and are known as right and left4 ,very few gunsmiths make these springs1 as they are kept in stock and can be purchased of the dealers at any time4 ,fig4 #ed is called the forward or side-action hook spring2 ,fig4 #ee the forward or side-action swivel1 and are used in bar locks4 ,fig4 #ef is the back-action mainspring1 such as used in cheap made locks4 ,these springs are also made with sear spring combined4 ,fig4 #eg is swivel back-action with sear spring combined4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #ed4 ,sear ,springs4--,sear springs are made for right and left hand locks4 ,the side-action or bar-lock springs are shown in ,fig4 #eh1 and the back-action lock springs in ,fig4 #ei4 ,in one kind of back-action lock there is used a bent spring similar to the bar-lock spring which is shown in ,fig4 #fj4 ,it will be observed that the lower branch of this spring is longer than that which is used in the bar or side-action locks4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #ee4 ,how to ,forge ,mainsprings4--,if the gunsmith desires to forge his own mainsprings he must select a good quality of spring steel1 as cast steel is generally too quick or fiery for springs that have as severe a duty to perform as a mainspring4 ,get the steel of the same thickness as the mainspring and of a width equal to the spring and the pivot that goes through the lock plate4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #ef4 ,draw the spring out carefully over a fire that has been burned enough to free it from sulphur1 if bituminous coal be used1 and be very careful not to over-heat the metal4 ,form to shape with any tools or means that may be at hand4 ,for straight springs1 as some kinds of pistol and gun-lock springs1 procure steel of the thickness and width of the spring at the widest and thickest end1 and draw down to the requisite width and thickness of the smallest end4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #eg4 ,how to ,temper ,mainsprings4--,if it be a single spring that is to be tempered1 heat it carefully or evenly in a fire that is well burned to free it from sulphur1 or preferably in a charcoal fire1 and when at a light-red heat1 harden by plunging it in any animal oil4 ,an iron pan may be used to contain the oil1 and any refuse or poor oil that may collect may be used4 ,lard oil is good1 but if oil be wanting1 use common lard or even tallow4 ,if hard1 melt before using4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #eh4 ,to temper the spring1 remove from the oil1 and hold it all dripping with the oil over a clear fire until the oil takes fire and blazes off4 ,it is best to dip it in the oil and blaze off the second time4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #ei4 ,if there are a number of springs enclose them in a piece of gas pipe to heat them1 and when hot1 turn them into the oil4 ,to temper1 remove them1 put them in an old wrought-iron frying pan1 add a little oil1 heat the pan over the fire1 shaking it in the meantime1 until the oil takes fire and blazes off4 ,let the work cool without putting it in water or oil4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #fj4 ,cheap ,mainsprings for ,revolvers4--,make springs for cheap revolvers from strips of sheet steel4 ,cut the springs so that the length of the spring will be lengthwise of the sheet from which it is cut1 or1 in other words1 the grain of the steel must not be across the spring1 but lengthwise with it4 ,when fitted1 harden in oil and blaze off in an old sheet-iron pan2 an old frying pan being very good for the purpose1 and literally fry them in the oil4 ,if heavy1 blaze two or three times4 ,agitate well in the pan during the blazing process4 ,an old saw blade1 one that is quite thin1 when cut up in strips will make springs for cheap work4 ,if too hard temper1 it cannot very well be used until the temper be drawn to suit4 ,they can be bent into form with a strong pair of pliers4 ,by warming the strips over a fire they can be readily bent into shape4 ,old table-knife blades1 sometimes called case-knife blades1 that are well tempered1 have been employed1 the blades being cut lengthwise with a pair of hand shears4 ,coiling ,wire for ,springs1 c4--,there are several methods of coiling wire for springs4 ,the most simple is to clamp a rod in the vise and wind the wire around it by hand1 but this is a very unsatisfactory method and it is rather difficult to wind the wire evenly4 ,another method is to revolve a rod in the lathe and let the wire coil upon it as the lathe is turned4 ,to insure equal space between the coils1 a piece of metal is held 8behind0 the wire1 and as this piece of metal bears against1 or in advance of the coil just made1 it produces an even spring4 ,a hook made of a piece of wire or a piece of metal with one end formed into a hook and clasping the rod on which the wire is moved is an excellent way to form an even spring4 ,two1 or even three or more pieces of wire may be wound at one time1 and this will insure springs of even space4 ,another way in which a spring of even coil can be made1 is to hold a bolt that has a good thread1 upright in the vise and confine the wire by clamping it to the bolt1 then wind the wire1 letting it follow the thread of the bolt4 ,when enough is wound1 remove and release the spring by 8screwing the bolt out of it10 the same as if holding a nut fast in the hand and turning the bolt out of it4 ,springs of almost any coil1 but not of 8almost any diameter10 can be made in this way4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #fa4 ,in the absence of a lathe a wire winding tool may be made by bending a rod into the form of a crank and insert the long end through a piece of hard wood1 as shown in ,fig4 #fa4 ,this can be held in the vise to use1 or fastened by two or three screws to the bench or any convenient place4 ,a slot is made in the end of the part that projects through the wood1 and in this slot the end of the wire is placed and is wound toward the crank4 ,of course the spring can be made no longer than this projecting end4 ,to make different sized springs different sized rods must be used1 and holes to fit must be made through the piece of wood4 ,to insure even space between the coils1 a strip of thin steel may be fastened by one or two screws at or near the bottom of the piece of wood1 and a hole is made near the top of the winding rod to pass through4 ,a space is cut out1 as shown in the cut1 to admit of the wire being removed4 ,in winding the upper end the steel strip is held away from the wood by its spring1 or by a wooden wedge1 and the wire must be held close to the wood by the hand or by a piece of wire formed as a sort of staple4 ,to wind a very long spring1 or a spring longer than the rod1 a clamp may confine the wire to the rod1 and when the spring has been wound to its length1 remove the clamp1 draw back the winding rod1 fix the clamp close to the outer end and begin to wind again without cutting the coil1 push it off the end of the rod as it is filled each time4 ,as all wire1 like hard drawn brass or steel wire1 will 8spring open0 after being coiled1 the rod must be made much smaller than the spring to be formed4 ,different sized holes may be made in the same block of wood to receive different sized winding rods over4 ,hooks or eyes on the ends of the rods can be readily made in like manner4 ,when the rod is too large to admit of ready bending to form the crank to turn it with1 a crank of cast-iron can be riveted upon it4 ,if the mechanic wishes to make a tool of this kind1 that will be more serviceable and at the same time 8look like something10 he can procure a casting similar to the movable head of a lathe1 and put in the hole where the spindle is placed a similar spindle1 but with the end where the wire is to be wound large enough to form a shoulder to keep it in place1 and on the other end put a wheel eight or ten inches in diameter1 with a handle to turn it with4 ,the end where the shoulder is may be made with a screw to fit the lathe chuck or with a hole to receive the lathe tools1 and they can be held there the same as holding them in the lathe chuck4 ,the spindles to wind the wire may be inserted in the hole and held in place by the set-screw4 ,the tool may be fastened to the bench by a rod screwed into the base1 or held by a nut under the bench4 ,this tool will be found to be a very ready one with which to work out bullet moulds4 ,the cherry being held the same as a rod4 ,it can also be used to free the muzzle or breech of barrels1 using the wooden rods covered with emery1 as described in ,chapter ,,xvi4 ,it is also useful for reaming holes and can be used for drilling in case of an emergency4 ,as a tool for holding taps to tap the thread in holes it has no equal--the work being held in the left hand and the wheel turned with the right hand4 ,,chapter ,,xxvi4 ,,on ,,rods4 ,how to ,make ,ramrods4--,ramrods are of two forms1 the straight rod used for rifles1 and the tapered rod used for shot guns4 ,the wood that is most in use is hickory1 which is split and then turned into shape4 ,the other woods used are ebony1 redwood1 snakewood1 rosewood1 etc4 ,rifle rods are generally made of sizes from three-sixteenths inch to half-inch diameter4 ,shot gun rods from one-half inch to three-quarters inch in diameter4 ,the measurement of the shot gun rods is at the largest diameter4 ,one way of making rods for rifles is very similar to that in which screws are made4 ,a hollow tool is used with cutting lips1 three are enough1 and the rod is passed through this tool1 the tool being turned very rapidly during the cutting4 ,the operation may be reversed and the wood being rotated while the tool is held in the hand and is passed along as it cuts4 ,a better kind of tool is made like a wheel about two inches in diameter1 and three-quarters of an inch thick4 ,a hole of the size of the rod is made through the diametrical centre1 and one side of the circumference is cut away so that a tool partaking of the nature of the gouge and finishing chisel is so held by a screw1 that the gouge portion advances and roughs out the rod1 while the chisel shaped part following it shaves the roughness and leaves the work smooth and nice4 ,the hole through the tool must be of the size the rod is to be made1 and the cutting tool set so as to allow the work to pass through the hole easily4 ,only one size rod can be made with this tool1 and different sizes must be made for different sized rods2 except the cutter which must be of steel1 it can be made of cast iron4 ,to make rods by hand1 the wood is split out as straight as can be and then rough shaved into form with a drawing knife4 ,it is then planed square with a carpenter's plane and then the square corners are taken off1 leaving the rod of octagon form4 ,a few strokes of the plane will then remove these corners and it will be nearly round4 ,a new file and sand-paper will finish it true and even4 ,after the rod has been planed square1 the best way to hold it for removing the corners and make it octagon form is to have a ,v groove made in a piece of hard wood of the length of the rod in which to lay it4 ,otherwise1 it will be very difficult to hold while using the plane4 ,round straight rods can be finished with a tool like a moulding plane1 and if this tool be of the proper form1 and the work be turned around two or three times during the operation1 a good rod can be made very expeditiously4 ,when wood is cross-grained it cannot be planed very well and must be finished with a file and rasp4 ,to hold the rod while being worked1 get a piece of hard wood about three-quarters of an inch thick and about four inches wide2 in one edge have a groove made a quarter inch wide and three-eighths deep4 ,rest the rod in this groove1 holding it at one end with a hand vise so as to turn it while filing1 and reduce first with the rasp and then finish with a file4 ,to finish easily with sand-paper1 wrap the sand-paper around a piece of wood shaped like a file1 and use as if filing4 ,pieces of broken window glass may also be used to advantage in reducing rods1 and then finish with fine sand-paper4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #fb4 ,how to make a ,wiping ,rod4--,take any straight rod1 a ramrod for instance1 but be sure that the wood be strong and tough1 and cut one end like the form shown in ,fig4 #fb4 ,by folding a rag over the end1 doubling it so as to fill the bore of the gun1 it will be found that it can be used in muzzle-loading guns without pulling off when the rod is being withdrawn4 ,the rounded end prevents the end of the rod being pushed through the cloth1 and the deep notch receives the folded sides so that it presents no inequalities to the bore of the gun4 ,the square shoulder prevents its being pulled from place on being withdrawn from the gun4 ,an iron rod may be made in the same way1 but a rod made of good hickory wood has no equal4 ,a wiping rod may be made of an iron rod having a slot or mortice cut through one end1 and through this a rag is drawn4 ,it may be used in breech-loading guns where it can be pushed in at one end and drawn out at the other1 but in a muzzle loading gun it cannot well be withdrawn on account of the rag being folded upon itself in attempting to withdraw it4 ,if a wiping rag be put in a gun and cannot be withdrawn1 it may be sometimes relieved so as to be withdrawn by turning a little warm water down the barrel so as to saturate and soften the rag4 ,wiping brushes should not be thrust down the bore of a muzzle-loader as they cannot be readily withdrawn1 and in instances where they are of larger diameter than the bore1 the gun must be unbreeched to have the brush taken out4 ,these brush wipers are very nice for that class of breech-loaders where they can be inserted at one end and withdrawn from the other4 ,in using them in this class of guns1 insert at the breech and remove from the muzzle1 and then there will be no dirt or debris thrown among the breech mechanism4 ,,chapter ,,xxvii4 ,,on ,,bullet ,,moulds4 ,joints for ,bullet ,moulds4--,simple as it may seem1 the joint of bullet moulds1 unless produced by the manufacturer1 who has ample tools at his command1 is not often well done4 ,the want of the proper knowledge how 8to lay out0 such a joint may be the excuse for ill-fitting work4 ,yet it is easy enough1 only 8know how40 ,illustration3 ,,figure #fc4 ,by reference to the cut1 ,fig4 #fc1 the joint and one side of the body of a bullet mould1 it will be observed that the line ,a is the surface where the two halves abut or come together4 ,the line ,b is drawn at right angles to this and in the diametrical centre of the round projection that is to form the joint4 ,at the point of intersection of these two lines1 or in other words where these two lines cross each other1 make an indent with a sharp-pointed prick-punch1 and there drill a hole of the size that the rivet is to be made4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #fd4 ,fig4 #fd shows the finished joint ready to receive its mate and be rivetted together4 ,after the hole for the rivet is made1 a tool must be used to 8sweep0 or cut down the surface at ,c1 and also leave a sharp and smooth shoulder as shown at ,d4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #fe4 ,to make this tool1 select a piece of steel1 centre it in the lathe1 and turn one end--say an inch or so--of the same size that the joint is to be4 ,in this end drill a hole lengthwise1 but exactly in the centre1 of the same size that the rivet is to be4 ,cut teeth on this end1 and temper as any tool for cutting metals4 ,insert a steel pin in the hole1 leaving it projecting half an inch or more1 and the tool is ready for use4 ,the cutting end of the tool is shown in ,fig4 #fe4 ,of course the other end must be fitted to the lathe chuck or a bit-stock in order to use it4 ,insert the projecting end of the pin in the hole ,a1 drilled for the joint1 and by means of the lathe or bit-stock1 cut down each half of the mould to about half of its thickness4 ,the outer circle or cut of the tool will be a guide to which to file the circle of the joint4 ,if the cutting end of the tool be made a little convex it will form the surface of the joint a little hollowing1 and a better fit will be the result4 ,countersink the outer ends of the hole1 insert the rivet1 and rivet them together4 ,the perfection of the joint can be ascertained by opening and closing the mould a few times1 removing the surface where the rubbing is apparent1 with a fine-cut file4 ,if the surfaces of the two halves at ,b1 ,fig4 #fd1 do not exactly come together1 and the material be brass or malleable iron1 a few blows with a hammer will insure close contact4 ,it may be necessary to say that the surface at ,b must first be made true and square1 so that the two halves will fit closely1 and then 8lay out0 the joint from this surface4 ,if there be many bullet moulds to make the circle of1 the joints can be made by means of a cutter revolving in the lathe4 ,make this cutter about two and a half inches in diameter and half an inch thick4 ,cut teeth in the sides as well as on the circumference4 ,fit it in a spindle so it will revolve4 ,after the joint is drilled fit it so as to turn on a pin fixed in a piece of iron that is held at one side of the cutter4 ,by feeding the mould up to the cutter the surface or shoulder is cut where the two portions of the joint come in contact when opened4 ,by turning the mould slowly around a portion of the circle is cut1 say about one-half4 ,remove the mould from the pin1 invert it1 and the remainder of the circle can be cut2 the whole 8round0 and the abutting surfaces being produced at two cuts2 a little smoothing up with a file being necessary to finish it4 ,this operation and the cutting is shown in ,fig4 #ff4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #ff4 ,how to ,make a ,ball ,cherry4--,the term 8cherry10 as applied to the tool used to make the mould for spherical balls or bullets1 was no doubt borrowed from the fruit of the same name--in fact the fruit and tool are very similar in form and size4 ,to any one not conversant with the process of producing a sphere in metal it seems a very difficult operation1 but nevertheless it is very simple1 and only requires a little knowledge and experience to make a cherry to fit any bore of gun4 ,this is the rule governing the operation3 ,a rotating body is passed through a properly-shaped circular aperture in a flat steel die that is held with its upper or cutting in the same plane as the axial line of the body rotating4 ,that's all4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #fg4 ,now1 to make application of the rule4 ,suppose we have a rifle of a certain bore to which is to be fitted a round ball4 ,first1 take a piece of steel1 we will say about one-quarter of an inch thick1 about one inch wide and about six or eight inches long4 ,an old file of good quality1 with the temper drawn and the teeth ground away1 may answer the purpose4 ,it should be annealed as soft as possible4 ,with a drill make a hole near one end1 but a little less in size than the bullet to be produced4 ,with a taper half-round reamer cut out the hole until that side of it which is to be the upper or cutting edge is exactly the size of the bullet desired4 ,the advantage of using this taper half-round reamer is the hole is made perfectly round1 and at the same time the taper of the reamer gives a bevel to the hole that forms a good1 strong and effective cutting edge4 ,with a file cut out a portion of the tool of a ,v shape1 bevelling the edges the same as the hole as shown in ,fig4 #fg4 ,this ,v may be either cut on the end1 a side of the tool1 as shown1 but in use it is preferred to be cut on the side1 as then1 if necessary1 the hand can find a hold on that end to assist it in operating4 ,when done1 temper for use4 ,for the cherry1 turn a piece of steel in the lathe to fit a chuck4 ,half-inch octagon is perhaps the best size of steel from which to make cherries of less diameter than half-inch1 and the length about six inches4 ,the end on which the cherry is to be made is roughly fashioned into a ball1 leaving the end where the centre supports it to be removed by the lathe tool or by filing4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #fh4 ,when fitted so that the rough blank will be held firmly in the chuck1 run the lathe at moderate speed1 set the ,t rest so that the steel die can be held on it about level with the under side of the rotating blank4 ,on the rest lay the die1 and press the opening so as to receive the rough sphere1 applying oil and not pressing too hard4 ,let it gradually scrape its way through the circular aperture1 the ,v-shaped opening in the side receiving the stem to which the cherry is attached4 ,in ,fig4 #fh is shown the finished blank after being passed through the die4 ,if it be preferred the die may be held in the hands and not supported on the ,t rest4 ,take care to supply plenty of oil to the work1 as this will prevent scratching or tearing the cherry while being formed4 ,it is well to make two of these holes1 one at each end of the piece of steel1 roughing the blank with the first1 which is a little larger than the one used to finish the cherry of the exact size4 ,when this tool gets dull grind on the upper or cutting edge1 but not too much1 as it will enlarge the hole1 and the result will be to make a larger cherry4 ,to form these blanks into cutting tools1 a copy can be taken from the cherries as sold to the trade4 ,bear in mind to leave the grooves deep enough to receive the metal cut from the blank mould when in operation4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #fi4 ,it will be observed that the cherries as purchased 7,fig4 #fi7 do not have their cutting edges terminate in that portion of the mould1 but usually on one side4 ,this is done to insure a perfectly spherical form by having a cutting side operating at the bottom of the hole while it is being formed4 ,it is somewhat difficult to make this form of cutting edge1 and some patience and care must be exercised or the blank may be spoiled4 ,every mechanic knows how nice and rapidly a well-made drill will cut4 ,suppose this form of cutting edge be applied to the bullet cherry4 ,it is no matter if this cherry be round or of conical form4 ,fill two cutting edges like a drill on opposite sides of the blank from the shank to the end of the cherry4 ,it is evident that here the two rounded portions that are left on each side of the cutting edges to be removed that the tool is nothing more nor less than a peculiar shaped drill or reamer that might form an internal sphere4 ,but as this form could not well be applied between the sides of blank bullet moulds1 and as the full rounded sides would not permit of these edges cutting1 then form the rounded surfaces into similar cutting edges like the two first made1 only not so large1 making three or four on each side1 according to the size of the cherry4 ,these cuts can very easily be made with a fine cut three-square or half-round file4 ,a cherry of this form for a round ball is shown in ,fig4 #gj1 and one for a conical ball in ,fig4 #ga4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #gj4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #ga4 ,in using a three-square file1 to get a fine-cutting edge that will make a sharp ,v cut1 grind away the teeth of one side4 ,this will remove the slightly rounded or blunt edge as usually made on this form of file4 ,by grinding thus1 two acute cutting angles can be had from one file4 ,if they get a little dull on the sharp cutting corner1 a little grinding will restore the edge and make it sharp again4 ,tempering ,bullet ,cherries4--,in tempering the cherry do not leave it too hard1 and be careful not to temper too hard above the spherical portion4 ,leave the shank softer1 as it will be less liable to break4 ,it is not necessary to shape the shank so as to exactly conform to the shape of the ,v opening in the forming tool1 for1 as the edges of this opening have been bevelled the same as the opening that shapes the cherry1 they will act as cutters1 and will reduce the shank to conform to the ,v4 ,it is well to mark the cherries in some conspicuous place on the shank1 with their size in hundredths of an inch1 the same as cartridges are numbered1 and also mark them with the number of round balls to the pound1 as was formerly in vogue among gunsmiths4 ,the finished cherries1 as purchased from dealers1 are so numbered4 ,cherries1 as purchased1 have shanks fitted to be used with a bit-stock1 but if the gunsmith fits these tools to be used in a lathe chuck that has a round hole1 necessitating a round shank1 and also wishes to use them in a bit-stock1 he can fill up the square hole in the bit-stock by brazing therein a piece of iron1 and then drilling a round hole to fit the tool4 ,,chapter ,,xxviii4 ,,screw-,,making ,,tools4 ,the tools used by the 8old time0 gunsmith for screw making were few and simple1 and are now seldom found except in the shop of some 8old veteran0 of the trade4 ,twenty-five or thirty years ago modifications of these tools were used in some of the armories where ,government arms were made1 and even now the same principle of these tools is employed but changed in form and adapted to machinery operated by steam or other power4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #gb4 ,fig4 #gb shows a tool to be held in the vise by the projection1 and the rough form of the screw1 or a piece of wire of suitable size is inserted in the hole in the centre of the raised portion1 cut with radial teeth1 and a screwdriver inserted in a transverse slot in the other end of the rough screw1 or bit of rod2 it is then rotated by a bit stock until by the pressure applied the teeth cut away the metal and so forms the body of the screw4 ,to form the head of the screw another tool1 shown in ,fig4 #gc having a countersunk hole made in the centre of the diameter of the head but a little deeper1 is used4 ,the unenlarged portion of the hole in the tool corresponding to the body of the screw1 which being inserted in the hole is rotated by means of the screwdriver in the bit stock1 until the head is shaped in the same manner that the body was formed4 ,of course1 different tools had to be made for different sized screws4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #gc4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #gd4 ,in forming the tang screw1 which has the head bevelled on the under side1 a tool was used like ,fig4 #gd4 ,the rod was turned into a tool in the same manner as for making a flat headed screw2 then the body was inserted in the bevelled head-making tool and rotated as for making a flat head4 ,the edges of the bevelled teeth being so formed as to become cutters upon the inner or central edges1 and so reduce the screw head to that shape4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #ge4 ,for countersinking1 to let in the heads of these bevelled forms of screws1 a tool is used like the one as shown in ,fig4 #ge--the stem serving as a guide when inserted in the work1 and a slot to admit the screw-driver1 for turning them1 being made in the large end4 ,this tool is made about two inches in length1 the head being about half an inch in diameter4 ,the length of the tools in ,figs4 #gb1 #gc and #gd1 where they are held in the vise1 is about an inch and a half or an inch and three-quarters2 the width from half an inch to five-eighths1 according to size2 the thickness one-quarter inch4 ,the round part with the cutting teeth is about three-quarters of an inch in height from the flat portion1 and is about the same diameter4 ,the teeth may be in number five1 six or eight1 as most convenient to make4 ,the tools for bevelled heads are best made with five teeth4 ,making ,small ,taps4--,the best manner of making large taps is to turn them to size in a lathe1 and then cut the screw by the same means of with a die plate4 ,small taps cannot very well be so made4 ,a very good way is to get good steel wire--generally sold of all sizes1 under the name of ,stubs' steel wire--and from this make taps2 the thread can be cut by means of a die stock4 ,when the thread is properly made1 there are several ways to form it so as to make it a cutting tool4 ,one method is to file it with four sides1 making it a square4 ,in this case it scarcely cuts1 but rather 8jams0 up a thread4 ,another one is to file it triangular or 8three square40 ,this form makes it rather a better form1 as regards cutting quality2 but as in case of the square form1 it will be observed that the inclination of the sides is such that they would not be selected for a cutting tool if such an angle were made as a tool for that purpose4 ,if two flutes or grooves be made of angular form1 with a square file1 or two hollows be cut with a round file1 these flutes running lengthwise with the tool1 the edges then present more of the aspect of a cutting tool2 but the distance is so great between the flutes that there is great friction1 and breakage will result if the hole to be tapped be too small1 or too much force be applied4 ,if three or four flutes be made the evil of friction will then be remedied4 ,be sure to cut the flutes deep enough to receive all cuttings that may be removed or the tap will become clogged1 and can with difficulty be turned out1 or perhaps may be broken4 ,a cheap and good way to finish a tap is1 after the thread is made1 to file away one-half of its diameter nearly the length of the thread4 ,this will give great clearance and space for the cuttings1 and at the same time the cutting edge is very sharp and is strong4 ,it will be found to cut very easily4 ,if a tap of this make becomes dull it can be sharpened by grinding on the flat formed by filing it away4 ,if the tap be too large it can be made smaller by thus grinding4 ,large taps work equally well made in this way1 but care must be taken in starting them in a hole or the thread may be made crooked4 ,reamers1 both large and small1 straight or taper1 can be made in this manner1 and are effective as well as cheap to make1 and can be kept sharp by grinding them on the flat side4 ,,chapter ,,xxix4 ,,nomenclature4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #gf4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #gg4 ,nomenclature of the ,gun ,stock4--,fig4 #gf shows a gun stock with the locks1 plates and other metal portions removed1 a1 is the butt2 b1 the small or handle2 c1 the head2 d1 the bump2 e1 the comb2 f1 the toe2 g1 lock-bed2 h1 fore-end or fore-arm2 i1 pistol-grip2 k1 cap or end of pistol-grip2 l1 tip of fore-end2 m1 escutcheons2 n1 mortice for bolt2 o1 chequering4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #gh4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #gi4 ,nomenclature of the ,gun ,lock4--,the number of pieces in a common gun lock1 as shown1 are thirteen1 and are fully illustrated in the cut1 ,fig4 #gg4 ,a1 is the lock-plate2 ,b1 the hammer2 ,c1 mainspring2 ,d1 the bridle2 ,e1 the tumbler2 ,f1 the sear2 ,g1 the sear-spring2 ,h1 the swivel or stirrup2 ,i1 the sear-spring screw2 ,k1 ,k1 ,k1 the bridle screws2 ,l1 hole for side-screw4 ,in some locks there are only two bridle screws4 ,in others a screw holds the mainspring to place instead of a lip catching under the stud4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #hj4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #ha4 ,nomenclature of the ,hammer4--,the names of different parts of the hammer1 ,fig4 #gh1 are3 a1 the body2 b1 the head2 c1 the comb2 d1 the nose2 e1 the cup2 f1 tumbler-hole4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #hb4 ,nomenclature of the ,lock-,plate4--,the names of different portions of the lock-plate1 ,fig4 #gi1 are3 a1 the bolster2 b1 mainspring-catch2 c1 hole for mainspring-pivot2 d1 hole for side-screw2 e1 hole for arbor of tumbler2 f1 hole for sear-screw2 g1 hole for sear spring-screw2 h1 slot for sear-spring stud2 i1 i1 holes for bridle screws4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #hc4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #hd4 ,nomenclature of the ,tumbler4--,the names of the tumbler1 ,fig4 #hj1 are3 a1 the body2 b1 arbor2 c1 squares2 d1 pivot2 e1 swivel arm2 f1 pin-hole1 and g1 the tumbler-screw hole4 ,nomenclature of the ,bridle4--,the bridle1 ,fig4 #ha1 consists of3 a1 the body2 b1 the eye for tumbler-pivot2 c1 hole for sear-screw2 d1 d1 holes for bridle screws4 ,some tumblers have a pin that goes in a hole in the lock-plate1 and this pin is called a pivot4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #he4 ,nomenclature of the ,mainspring4--,the mainspring1 ,fig4 #hb1 consists of3 a1 the upper branch2 b1 the lower branch2 c1 the hook2 d1 the pivot2 e1 the catch which is sometimes called the tang4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #hf4 ,nomenclature of the ,sear4--,the sear1 ,fig4 #hc1 consists of3 a1 the body2 b1 the nose2 c1 the arm2 d1 screw-hole4 ,nomenclature of the ,sear-,spring4--,the sear-spring1 ,fig4 #hd1 consists of3 a1 the blade2 b1 upper branch2 c1 lower branch2 d1 the stud2 e1 screw-hole4 ,nomenclature of the ,swivel4--,the mainspring-swivel or stirrup1 ,fig4 #he1 consists of3 a1 the body2 b1 the axis2 and c1 the tumbler-pin hole4 ,nomenclature of the ,breech-,pin4--,fig4 #hf shows full size of musket-barrel breech-pin4 a1 plug with threads2 b1 tenon2 c1 tang2 d1 tang-screw hole2 e1 face4 ,in sporting guns the tang is often called the 8strap10 and is distinguished as long and short4 ,the length varying from two and a half inches as shortest1 and five inches as the longest4 ,sometimes the term 8tail0 is employed instead of tang or strap4 ,the diameter of the plug is generally one-half1 five-eighths1 and three-quarters of an inch4 ,the diameter of the pin used in ,united ,states muskets and rifles is three-quarters of an inch4 ,nomenclature of ,screws4--,in all the screws1 the parts are the stem1 the head1 the slot and the thread4 ,,chapter ,,xxx4 ,,on ,,browning4 ,object of ,browning4--,browning is done for the purpose of subduing the bright color of the barrel from the sight of game2 to bring out the fibres of the metal to show their form and beauty1 and also to show whether the metal be free from flaws4 ,it does not prevent barrels from rusting1 but rust will not attack so readily as if left in a bright condition4 ,the browning is very certain to make all defects appear1 except those designedly hidden1 and not only defects of materials but the filing and finishing of the barrel1 if not well done1 will appear in marks in certain lights4 ,a thoroughly well-filed barrel presents1 what may be called1 a deep liquid appearance4 ,preparatory ,process4--,the process of browning is simple and cheap1 and at the same time serves to protect a gun1 in some measure1 from rust1 and also adds to its appearance4 ,the operation consists in producing a very thin uniform film of rust1 or oxide1 upon the iron and giving a gloss to its surface by rubbing wax over it1 or by coating it with some kind of varnish1 as shellac varnish4 ,preparatory to browning1 the barrel having been filed and polished bright1 is rubbed with lime to remove all grease4 ,some gun makers use wet lime or lime water and then rub in dry powdered lime4 ,the vent holes are to be stopped with wax or wooden plugs1 and both breech and muzzle are to be plugged with wooden rods which serve as handles to hold the barrel during the operation4 ,the object of plugging is to prevent the mixture from finding its way into the interior of the barrel and the breech and muzzle plugs also serving as handles1 prevent the hands from coming in contact with the barrel1 which would prevent the stain from 8taking10 and consequently cause a spot of different color from that on other portions of the work4 ,the solution is generally applied with a sponge or cloth1 sponge being preferable1 until the surface is equally moistened1 and after standing in a warm place1 generally about twenty-four hours1 it is rubbed off with a stiff brush or a wire card4 ,the state of the atmosphere will have much to do with the action of the browning mixture4 ,it can be easily ascertained when the barrels are dry enough to work1 as by applying the card1 if dry1 the rust will fly off quickly1 but if not dry1 the rust will adhere firmly and the surface of the barrel will look streaky4 ,some mixtures will dry in twelve hours or even less1 but twenty-four hours will insure their being perfectly dry4 ,the process of wetting and brushing1 or 8carding10 is repeated until the barrel has acquired the desired color4 ,when this stage is reached the barrel is freely washed with hot water1 in which a little potash may be mixed4 ,then wash with clean water and dry thoroughly4 ,a little lime water may be used as a wash to destroy any free acid that may remain in the pores of the metal4 ,the ,processes of ,browning4--,a browning or rust may be obtained very speedily and well by enclosing the barrels in a chamber and subjecting them to the vapor of muriatic acid4 ,the same end may be obtained by moistening the surface with dilute muriatic or nitric acid4 ,there is another material sometimes used1 which is butter or chloride of antimony4 ,it is sometimes called 8bronzing or browning salt40 ,in using this substance1 a uniform mixture is made with it and olive oil2 this is rubbed upon the barrel1 which is slightly heated1 and is then exposed to the air until the required degree of browning is arrived at4 ,the operation of the antimony is quickened by rubbing on after it1 a little aquafortis4 ,browning ,damascus ,barrels4--,damascus barrels are browned by first burnishing the barrels very nicely1 then cover with bone oil2 pound1 or drop1 or strew wood ashes all over1 then heat in a wire cage filled with charcoal1 until the first dark blue is obtained4 ,after the barrels are cold1 mix a small quantity of sulphuric acid in water1 and with a hard brush apply to the barrel4 ,the acid will remove the color from the steel portion of the barrel1 leaving the iron1 on account of its greater adhesion1 still retaining its blue color4 ,take care to keep a good color and not extract too much4 ,browning ,belgian ,damascus ,barrels4--,the characteristic1 bright1 wavy appearance of ,belgian ,damascus barrels is generally 8eat up10 and the process is termed 8pickling40 ,the process results in eating away the softer metals from the harder1 used in forming the barrel4 ,the preparation used is one pound of blue vitriol dissolved in a gallon of soft water1 at the boiling point1 and the boiling continued until the quantity is reduced about one-fourth2 then let it cool1 and pour out into a lead trough4 ,plug the barrels securely at both breech and muzzle1 so that the liquid cannot get into the interior4 ,when the barrels are immersed in the solution1 it will act upon the metal in fifteen to twenty minutes4 ,remove and wash with water1 and if not satisfactory1 immerse again1 until the operation is complete4 ,pour boiling water over them1 and scratch well with a steel brush or card1 which will eventually give the beautiful1 bright1 wavy appearance4 ,laminated steel barrels may be subjected to this same operation4 ,browning ,inferior ,barrels4--,inferior quality of ,birmingham barrels are browned as follows3 ,dissolve as much muriate of mercury as can be taken up in a glassfull of alcohol4 ,mix this solution in one pint or more of water4 ,a small quantity of this mixture is poured on a little whitening and laid on the barrel with a sponge1 rather lightly4 ,as soon as dry1 brush off and lay on a fresh coating4 ,so proceed until the barrel is dark enough1 which is generally about two or three days4 ,the effect is to make the softer portions of the metal a beautiful brown1 while the harder portions remain quite light4 ,the rusting process is killed by washing in hot water1 after which the barrels are suddenly immersed in cold water4 ,this has the effect of heightening the brightness of both colors4 ,plain ,welded ,barrels made to ,resemble ,twist4--,plain welded barrels are made to resemble twist barrels by wetting a thread or fine cord with dilute acid1 and winding it around the barrel so as to make spiral lines1 running all along its surface4 ,wherever the thread touches a slight coating of rust will be formed4 ,the barrel may be treated in this way two or three times1 and the spiral windings of the thread will exhibit fine dark lines closely resembling twist barrels4 ,to wind the thread the barrel may be put between the centres of a lathe1 and so turned while it winds the thread upon it1 being guided by the hand1 or the barrel may be supported between centres or put on a rod of wood1 which may be turned by a crank or handle4 ,barrels may be colored by exposing them to a degree of heat sufficient to produce a blue tinge1 and is done to color pistol barrels1 but when double gun barrels are soft-soldered together this cannot be done on account of danger of melting the solder4 ,the inner surface of the barrel1 which is also so colored1 must be polished after the operation4 ,smoke ,staining4--,this method of coloring barrels is as follows3 ,the barrels are washed with a little sulphuric acid1 to cause the metal to receive the effects of the gas more readily2 it is then washed off1 and the barrels rubbed dry4 ,a fire is built with coal possessing as much hydrogen gas and as little sulphur as possible4 ,burn the coals until they give a clear1 white flame1 with no black smoke4 ,pass the barrels through that flame1 backward and forward1 until the whole are covered with a black1 sooty coating4 ,place them in a damp1 cool cellar and let them stand about twenty-four hours1 and if the place be sufficiently damp1 the iron parts will be covered with a red rust1 while the steel portions still retain the sooty coat4 ,scratch them off with a wire card and rub with a piece of cloth1 and wash or polish with water1 using on the cloth a little flour of emery4 ,the steel will be found to be of the original bright color1 while the iron will be a little darker4 ,rub dry1 and pass the barrels through the flame again4 ,allow them to stand about twelve hours to rust1 and then polish as before4 ,with every smoking the colors will be a little darker4 ,the darkest color to be obtained is a fine purple-black color on the iron2 the steel inclining to a copper color4 ,the principle of this stain is simply the hydrogen gas contained in the coal acting on the iron1 iron being of a softer nature than the steel1 which it does not affect1 the flame also possessing a quantity of tar1 it is imperceptibly embodied by the iron during the action of the oxide1 and1 when finished1 by filling up the spaces created1 it becomes decidedly more impervious to damp or wet than any other stain or browning which is composed entirely of oxide of iron4 ,,chapter ,,xxxi4 ,,recipes ,,for ,,browning ,,gun ,,barrels4 ,solution for ,browning ,gun ,barrels4--,make a solution by putting together in a glass vessel1 spirits of nitre1 three-quarter ounce2 tincture of steel1 three-quarter ounce2 black brimstone1 one-quarter ounce2 blue vitriol1 one-half ounce2 corrosive sublimate1 one-quarter ounce2 nitric acid1 one drachm1 and copperas1 one-quarter ounce4 ,mix with one and one-half pints of rain water1 and bottle for use4 ,clean the barrel till entirely bright1 rubbing it over with finest emery paper1 then apply the solution with a clean white cloth4 ,set away for twenty-four hours4 ,at the end of this time a rust will have formed over the barrel4 ,go over it with a steel scratch-brush1 then rub off all the rust with a woolen cloth4 ,if you find the brown not dark enough1 cover again with the solution and set away twenty-four hours longer4 ,remove the rust exactly as in the first instance1 then1 the color suiting1 wash off with a wet cloth1 rub to thorough dryness1 and finish by rubbing with linseed oil1 to prevent further rusting4 ,this application browns the barrel beautifully1 and in case of twist leaves the markings prominently plain4 ,the tincture of steel is sometimes not to be obtained at a small drug store1 in which case the unmedicated tincture of iron may be made to answer reasonably well4 #b4 ,sulphate of copper1 one ounce2 sweet spirits of nitre1 one ounce2 water1 one pint4 ,mix4 ,in a few days it will be ready for use4 #c4 ,tincture muriate of iron1 one ounce2 nitric ether1 one ounce2 sulphate of copper1 four scruples2 rain water1 one pint2 if the process is to be hurried1 add two or three grains of oxymuriate of mercury4 ,put in lime water to neutralize acid4 #d4 ,spirits of nitre1 one pound2 alcohol1 one pound2 corrosive sublimate1 one ounce4 ,mix and cork for use4 #e4 ,tincture of muriate of iron1 one ounce2 nitric ether1 one ounce2 sulphate of copper1 four scruples2 rain water1 one pint4 #f4 ,alcohol1 one and a half ounce2 tincture of steel1 one and a half ounce2 corrosive sublimate1 one and a half ounce2 sweet spirits of nitre1 one and a half ounce2 blue vitriol1 one ounce2 nitric acid1 three-quarters of an ounce4 ,mix and dissolve in one quart of warm water4 ,keep in glass bottles4 #g4 ,nitric ether1 six ounces2 alcohol1 one ounce2 sulphate of copper 7blue vitriol71 one and a half ounce2 muriated tincture of iron1 one and a half ounce2 tincture of gum benzoin1 one and a half ounce4 ,dissolve the sulphate of copper in water1 add the other ingredients1 previously mixed1 and then add three pints of boiling water4 #h4 ,spirits of nitre1 one pound2 alcohol1 one pound2 corrosive sublimate1 one ounce4 ,mix in a bottle and keep corked for use4 #i4 ,soft water1 one quart2 dissolve in it blue vitriol1 two ounces2 corrosive sublimate1 one ounce2 and one ounce of spirits of nitre4 ,put on one coating1 and in about an hour a second one1 then let the work stand twelve hours4 ,oil and rub with cloth4 #aj4 ,one ounce nitric acid2 one ounce blue vitriol2 dissolve in four ounces rain water1 and mix all together in a pint of water4 ,warm the mixture slightly and apply gently with a sponge4 #aa4 ,nitric acid1 one-half ounce2 sweet spirits of nitre1 one-half ounce2 alcohol1 one ounce2 blue vitriol1 two ounces2 tincture of iron1 one ounce2 soft water1 one quart4 #ab4 ,sweet spirits of nitre1 one and a half ounce2 nitric acid1 one ounce2 tincture of steel1 two ounces2 alcohol1 one and a half ounce2 blue vitriol1 one-half ounce4 ,dissolve the blue vitriol in cold rain water1 and add the other ingredients to make one quart4 #ac4 ,apply the following fluid by means of a clean white cloth3 ,spirits of nitre1 one pound2 alcohol1 one pound2 corrosive sublimate1 one ounce4 ,mix in a bottle and keep corked for use4 ,apply one coat and set in a warm1 dark place1 until a red rust is formed over the whole surface1 which will require1 in warm weather1 from ten to twelve hours2 in cold1 from fifteen to twenty hours4 ,then card it down with a gun-maker's card1 and rub off with a clean cloth4 ,repeat the process until the color suits1 as each coat gives a darker shade4 ,browning ,recipes for ,twist and ,laminated ,barrels4--#a4 ,sweet spirits of nitre1 one-half ounce2 tincture of steel1 one-quarter ounce2 corrosive sublimate1 one-half ounce2 aqua fortis1 sixty drops2 nitrate of silver1 four grains2 a small lump of chalk and one pint of rain water4 #b4 ,tincture of sesqui-chloride of iron1 one-half ounce2 corrosive sublimate1 one drachm2 sulphate of copper1 one-half drachm2 nitric acid1 one drachm to one and a half drachms2 alcohol1 six drachms2 water1 eight ounces4 ,dissolve the corrosive sublimate in the alcohol1 then add the solution to the other ingredients and let the whole stand for a month or six weeks1 when it will be ready for use4 #c4 ,sweet spirits of nitre1 one ounce2 tincture of steel1 one-half ounce2 blue vitriol1 one-quarter ounce2 nitric acid1 six drops2 corrosive sublimate1 fourteen grains2 water1 one pint4 ,when the barrels are dark enough1 drop a few drops of muriatic acid in water and wash the barrel slightly to brighten the twists4 #d4 ,muriatic tincture of steel1 one ounce2 alcohol1 one ounce2 muriate of mercury1 one-quarter ounce2 strong nitric acid1 one-quarter ounce2 blue vitriol1 one-eighth ounce2 water1 one quart4 ,thoroughly mix the ingredients4 ,let them stand about thirty days before using4 ,wet the barrels with the mixture1 applied with a sponge1 about once every two hours4 ,scratch off with wire card every morning until the barrels are dark enough4 ,to ,blue ,gun ,barrels4--,a very pretty bluish color may be imparted to gun barrels by dressing them off to brightness with fine emery paper1 and then rubbing them over quickly with nitric acid4 ,when the desired color has appeared1 wash them off with clean water1 rub dry with a soft cloth1 and then rub with linseed oil to prevent any further action of the acid4 ,brown ,tint for ,iron or ,steel4--,dissolve1 in four parts water1 two parts of crystalized chloride of iron2 two parts of chloride of antimony2 and one part of gallic acid1 and apply the solution with a sponge or cloth to the barrel1 letting it dry in a warm place4 ,repeat the process according to the depth of color desired4 ,wash with warm water1 and dry2 then rub over with boiled linseed oil4 ,the metal receives a brown tint and resists moisture4 ,the chloride of antimony should be as little acid as possible4 ,transparent ,blue for ,iron or ,steel4--,put together ,demar varnish1 one quart2 fine ground ,prussian blue1 one-quarter ounce4 ,polish the metal to brightness1 and put on thinly with a varnish brush4 ,a beautiful transparent blue color1 but one that will not stand rough usage4 ,varnish for ,browned ,barrels4--#a4 ,dissolve ten parts clear grains of mastic1 five parts camphor1 fifteen grains sandarac1 and five parts elemi1 in a sufficient quantity of alcohol1 and apply the varnish without heat4 ,the articles treated with this varnish will not only be preserved from rust1 but their metallic lustre will not be in the least dimmed by exposure to dampness4 #b4 ,another varnish may be made by using gum shellac1 one ounce2 gum sandarac1 one ounce2 ,venice turpentine1 one drachm2 and ninety-eight per cent4 alcohol1 one gallon4 #c4 ,another formula consists of shellac1 one ounce2 dragon's blood1 one-quarter of an ounce2 alcohol1 one quart4 ,a little less dragon's blood may be used if the color be too great4 ,finish for ,browned ,barrels4--,there are many ways of finishing barrels after browning4 ,some gunsmiths warm the barrels and rub them while quite warm with a flannel cloth and finish with a little bees-wax and turpentine4 ,some polish with a steel burnisher or rub with white wax2 others use a wash of thin shellac varnish laid on carefully and evenly with a camel's hair brush4 ,some finish off with a solution of two ounces of shellac and three drachms of dragon's blood dissolved in two quarts of good alcohol4 ,to ,remove ,old ,browning4--,to remove old brown browning1 plug the vent and muzzle of the barrels2 immerse the browned parts1 for about one hour1 in hot lime water1 or strong lye1 to remove the varnish or grease2 wipe them and put them in vinegar1 in a wooden trough1 for an hour or less1 when the browning may be wiped off with a rag4 ,,chapter ,,xxxii4 ,,miscellaneous4 ,shellac and its ,uses4--,gum shellac is the gunsmith's friend4 ,it is the best material from which to make the varnish he uses1 and in wood-working1 if there be cracks or checks in the material1 or in stocking should a little slip of the tool occur while letting in locks or other parts1 a little of the gum judiciously applied remedies the defect1 and1 like charity1 8covers a multitude of little sins40 ,shellac is often adulterated with resins1 and it requires some knowledge of the article to detect this adulteration4 ,it can only be ascertained by experience in handling1 or by ocular demonstration with an expert4 ,to make ,shellac ,varnish4--,to make varnish1 put the shellac in a clean vessel and put over it a quantity of good alcohol1 enough to about cover it1 if it lie somewhat compact in the receptacle2 if too thick when made it can be thinned with alcohol4 ,while the gum is dissolving keep it covered from dust and let it stand in a warm place1 as in the sun during the summer1 or near a warm stove in the winter4 ,too much warmth will tend to evaporate the alcohol2 and for this reason it ought to be somewhat sealed from the air4 ,it may take two or three days to thoroughly dissolve the gum for varnish1 according to the temperature in which it is placed1 etc4 ,when the gum is dissolved1 thin with alcohol to the proper consistency for easy application with the brush4 ,if it be dirty1 or it be desired to have it clear and nice1 filter it through good blotting paper4 ,when not using the varnish1 keep close covered to prevent evaporation4 ,how to conceal ,bad ,places in ,wood-work4--,if there be cracks in a stock or a bad cut made in stocking1 as will sometimes happen where locks and straps are let in1 apply a piece of the gum to the place and with a warm iron melt it into the place1 so that it will be well filled2 also warm the wood in close proximity to be sure of good adhesion4 ,let it remain until cold and solid1 and then finish down the same as the stock is finished down4 ,another ,method4--,another method of filling bad places in wood-work is to get fine dust1 as made with a fine rasp or file1 and mix this dust with thin glue1 and rub it into the interstices1 letting it remain until hard and solid1 and then finish same as the adjoining wood4 ,neither this nor shellac will adhere where there is oil1 or where the surface to adhere has been oiled4 ,emery ,cloth and ,emery ,paper4--,emery paper is the cheaper1 but is not so durable as the cloth4 ,the paper is soon worn out and is torn in using1 but the cloth is seldom destroyed1 and can be used so long as any abrasive material remains upon it4 ,there are about six grades1 say ,nos4 #jj1 #j1 #a1 #a1 #b and #c1 which may be selected4 ,to use on plain surfaces cut the sheet up in small1 convenient pieces1 fold a piece around a file and use as if using the file4 ,in using a finer number1 be careful to remove all the marks left by using the previous number4 ,if moistened with oil1 a fine1 soft-appearing1 dead finish is obtained4 ,to use in a lathe1 run the work with fast speed and hold the cloth to place with the hand1 or put it around a file and so hold it4 ,after the pieces are somewhat worn1 they can be used to finish with4 ,in selecting by the numbers remember that #jj is the finest1 and is called flour of emery cloth1 or paper2 #j is a little coarser1 and then follow the different grades in numerical order4 ,uses of the ,alcoholic ,lamp4 ,how to make ,small ,springs4--,an alcohol lamp is almost indispensable to the jobbing gunsmith4 ,suppose a small bent spring is to be made1 a little trigger spring1 for instance1 such as is used in many kinds of revolvers1 it can be easily formed in this manner3 ,take a bit of old watch-spring1 heat it in the lamp until it is blue1 then1 with the snips or hand-shears1 divide it lengthwise to the necessary width2 heat in the flame of the lamp1 and1 with a pair of pliers1 bend to the required shape4 ,it is not always necessary to temper these springs1 but if it be necessary to do so1 heat until red in lamp1 using a blow-pipe if the heat be insufficient1 harden in oil1 and then draw the temper to suit4 ,the whole operation can be done without moving from the bench1 and much quicker1 and certainly better1 than could be done at the forge4 ,how to make ,small ,drills4--,then1 again1 to make small drills of steel wire1 use the lamp for heating and tempering4 ,if a small drill be broken1 draw the temper in the lamp preparatory to forming it anew4 ,drills of larger size may be hardened in the forge fire1 brightened by grinding or rubbing on a piece of fine emery cloth1 and the temper readily drawn in the lamp4 ,the same process may be applied to tempering small screw taps4 ,small screws can be readily blued in the same manner4 ,advantages of the ,alcohol ,lamp4--,the lamp has this advantage over the forge-fire2 it draws the temper very evenly1 and the temper color can be readily seen1 as the flame of alcohol makes no smoke to obscure it4 ,even for small tempering1 when once employed1 no gunsmith will think of discontinuing its use4 ,the ,soldering ,copper4--,the soldering copper for the use of the gunsmith should be about one and a half pounds in weight4 ,the length of the copper should be about four or five inches1 of octagon form1 with a square pyramidal shaped point4 ,it is fixed to an iron rod about eight inches long1 on the end of which is a wooden handle4 ,how to ,heat the ,copper4--,when heating the copper for use1 the best way to ascertain the proper heat is to hold it near the face1 and if a bright warm glow is felt1 it is hot enough for use4 ,if heated too hot the tinning will be burned off1 and it will not work satisfactorily4 ,to replace the tinning1 heat it warm enough to just melt the solder1 and file the surface to be tinned bright and smooth1 then place a little solder and a bit of resin on a piece of sheet-tin1 and in this rub the heated copper until the brightened surface has received a coating of the solder1 the resin acting as a flux during the operation4 ,how to ,tin the ,copper4--,another method to tin a copper is to put the solder and the resin on a brick1 heat the copper and rub until it receives the tin coating4 ,the common soldering acid may be used instead of the resin for a flux4 ,during the operation the point of the copper may be dipped in the acid to facilitate the tinning4 ,it will be found that a too free use of the acid1 if used as a flux1 for general work1 will soon destroy the point of the copper4 ,when this is the case file off the roughness and heat the copper quite warm1 and draw it out to shape on the anvil1 the same as if working a piece of iron4 ,when so shaped1 file smooth and re-tin as directed4 ,to ,prevent ,gun ,barrels from ,glimmering4--,it sometimes happens that gun-barrels are disposed to throw off a kind of glimmer without any apparent cause1 thus seriously interfering with the hunter or sportsman in getting a correct sight4 ,of course1 the gunsmith would remedy the evil by browning the barrel1 but the sportsman in the woods could not do this4 ,had his friend1 the gunsmith1 known that such a thing was going to happen he would have told him to get a green hazel-nut pod1 crush it1 and rub the juice over the barrel1 which would produce a beautiful non-glimmering brown4 ,if a green hazel-nut pod could not be had1 a green wild plum or a green wild crab-apple or a bunch of green wild grapes would answer the same purpose reasonably well4 ,in the absence of these an unripe black-walnut crushed and rubbed over the barrel would stop the glimmering2 and early in spring1 when no kind of fruits had yet appeared1 a young sprout of wild grape-vine crushed and rubbed over the barrel would make a very good substitute4 ,these were the means resorted to by the 8hunters of ,kentucky0 in the long-gone days of backwoods life1 when 8,old ,kentuck0 was young4 ,repairing ,shot-,chargers4--,very often the stud that holds the lever of a shot-charger will become loose or be forced from its position4 ,the best method to repair it is to remove the lever with its spring and the cutters1 put the stud back in place1 wet the joint on the inside the charger with soldering acid1 and1 holding it with the stud downwards1 put a bit of soft solder upon the joint1 and hold it over an alcohol lamp until the solder melts4 ,if well done it will 8stay put40 ,sometimes the lever spring will not remain in place1 but will slip out4 ,to remedy the evil1 take a common ,berdan cartridge primer1 or any other kind will do1 only take one that has been used or has had the priming removed1 put inside it a drop of soldering acid and a bit of solder1 enough to fill it when melted4 ,hold it over the lamp until the solder fuses4 ,when it has cooled1 wet the charger with a touch of the acid just where the bend of the spring comes1 and there place the primer with the solder next the wet place4 ,hold it in position with a bent piece of wire or a strip of steel bent like a loop4 ,hold over the lamp1 with the primer downward1 until the solder is melted4 ,replace the spring1 and it will be found that it will remain firmly in its place4 ,broken ,plunger ,nipples4--,when plunger nipples are broken or are lost from the gun1 and none are at hand to repair the damage1 a substitute may be found in a common gun-nipple by filing away a portion of the cone where the cap is placed4 ,it is worth while to save broken nipples1 as they are taken from guns with this end in view for their use4 ,they can be annealed or the temper drawn1 and they can be kept ready for drilling for the strikers and cutting over to fit the gun in which they are to be inserted4 ,the nipple used in military arms makes a good substitute for a broken plunger nipple1 as the thread is nearly the same as that of some plunger nipples4 ,how to ,remove ,rusted ,screws1 ,broken ,nipples1 etc4--,sometimes it so happens that a screw is so rusted in a lock or other part of a gun1 or a rusted nipple refuses to start from its seat1 and by repeated trials the sides of the screw-head adjoining the slot are worn away or the squares of the nipple are forced off1 and the removal of either screw or nipple an almost impossibility with the hand screw-driver or nipple wrench4 ,in such cases have a screw-driver or the nipple wrench fitted to the lathe chuck1 and1 holding the screw or nipple in place to be thus turned out1 move the dead spindle of the lathe so that the work be firmly held in place1 with no chance to 8give back10 then turn the lathe by moving the fly-wheel with the hand1 or hold the wheel fast and turn the work1 and1 as there is no chance for the tool to slip from its place1 the screw and nipple is almost sure to be started4 ,if so1 it may be readily turned from its place by hand4 ,converting ,muskets to ,sporting ,guns4--,very often old muskets are brought to the gunsmith to have the rifling bored out and changed so as to present more of the appearance of a sporting gun4 ,if properly worked over they make a gun not very bad-looking1 but very serviceable1 as they will stand a great amount of abuse and will bear large charges4 ,for shooting hawks and keeping corn-fields clear of depredators they are 8just the thing40 ,after the rifling is removed1 cut off the barrel to #cj or #cb inches in length4 ,take off the bands and throw them away4 ,cut off the stock where the top of the lower band comes1 solder a rib on under side of the barrel and attach two thimbles to receive a wooden ramrod4 ,bore out the stock to receive the wooden rod1 using the thimbles on the rib as guides in so doing4 ,fit the rod as in sporting guns4 ,cast a tip on fore end of stock where the lower band was1 using the lower shoulder where the band rested for the shoulder of the tip4 ,remove the elevating sight by heating1 if it be soldered on1 and fix muzzle sight by soldering on a bit of brass1 or by drilling a hole and putting in a pin and filing to shape4 ,in boring for the rod the bit may strike the forward lock-screw1 and when this be the case float the stock so that the rod will go above the screw4 ,don't attempt to change the shape of the stock by removing any portion of it1 otherwise than stated1 for by so doing the shape and symmetry will be lost1 and it will show to be a botch job4 ,to hold the barrel in place a loop for either wire or bolt must be attached to the barrel a little distance back from the fore end1 and a wire or bolt put through the stock the same as other guns are made4 ,in place of the wire or bolt a very good plan is to put a short stud on the barrel1 and from the under side of the fore end put in a screw with a large head1 like a tumbler-screw4 ,in this case it is necessary to drill a hole through the stud to let the ramrod pass through4 ,patent ,breech1 ,bursted4--,as the right-hand barrel of double muzzle-loading guns is fired more than the other1 it sometimes happens that the patent breech of this barrel is destroyed or becomes defective4 ,it can be replaced by taking a piece of good sound iron1 cut down one end of it1 and cut a thread the same as if making a breech-pin4 ,after being fitted to the barrel cup it for powder-chamber like the one removed1 and cut the hook end off to length4 ,make the nipple seat as given in the article on that subject4 ,file the hook so as to fit the break-off1 remove from the gun1 and case-harden4 ,a somewhat formidable-looking job to the one who never made one1 but very easy and simple when once accomplished4 ,broken ,tumblers4--,it often happens that the tumbler in a lock is broken off where the hammer goes on1 and no tumbler is at hand to replace it4 ,a repair may be made by filing away the broken square and filing a groove or slot down the round part where it went through the lock plate4 ,fit a piece of square iron or steel1 of the size of the broken square1 or a round piece that will make the square1 to the tumbler by filing away one end to fit the slot filed in the round part4 ,hold it in place with a piece of binding wire twisted around it1 and braze it with spelter solder or good soft copper or brass1 then finish to fit the hammer4 ,another way is to remove the end where it goes into the bridle and then drill a hole through the tumbler of the size of this end or bearing2 make the piece to be brazed on with one end to fit this hole and put it through far enough to make the end filed away4 ,when fitted1 braze and finish4 ,when the trigger catch of a tumbler is broken or is worn away1 it can be entirely removed by filing and a piece of steel fitted or held by a small rivet and then brazed4 ,after being finished up and fitted to the trigger1 the tumbler can be hardened1 care being taken not to heat it sufficiently to melt the brazing material4 ,describing ,lines on ,bright ,surfaces4--,many gunsmiths find it difficult to make the pattern of work upon iron or steel1 especially after the surface is finished4 ,yet it is necessary to have the outline of the intended form4 ,for instance1 if the pattern of a hammer for a revolver or a gun hammer1 the sides of which are both flat 7in fact the hammers of many breech-loading rifles are made in this manner71 be required to be made on a piece of iron or steel that has been faced down1 the method is to drill a hole for the screw or pin on which it turns1 then fasten the pattern to the work by driving a piece of wire into the hole1 and1 with a sharp scriber1 mark around the pattern1 which is then removed and the work filed away to the line4 ,if the hammer be a broken one1 then care must be taken to have the pieces held carefully as they were before being broken4 ,if the pieces be somewhat small and difficult to hold properly1 warm them over a spirit lamp and smear the sides to be put against the blank1 lightly with beeswax1 and this will tend to hold them better in place and prevent their slipping4 ,to obtain a more permanent line and one that will show very distinctly in all its tracings1 coat the surface on which the line is to be made with a film of copper4 ,to do this take a lump of sulphate of copper1 sometimes called blue vitriol or blue stone1 wet it with water and rub over the bright surface of the work4 ,the moisture will dry in a few minutes1 leaving a surface or film of pure copper4 ,put the pattern in place and describe the outline4 ,upon removing the pattern the line will be found to be clear and showing very distinctly through the coppery surface4 ,three or four light rubs with the sulphate are sufficient to produce this surface1 which is so very thin that it may be easily removed when the work is done with a fine file1 or by rubbing with a bit of emery paper or emery cloth4 ,,chapter ,,xxxiii4 ,,on ,,powder ,,and ,,shot4 ,to ,select ,buck ,shot4--,the proper way is to put a wad in the muzzle of the gun1 about half an inch down1 and fit the shot in perfect layers2 if this is observed1 there will be no necessity to try them in the cartridge case1 as they will be sure to fit4 ,buck-shot cast from a mould with nine to the #a ounce1 will just fit a twelve-bore barrel at the muzzle in a choke bore4 ,if smaller shot is required1 choose four to a layer1 or five1 and avoid the sizes that come between4 ,at forty yards1 all these pellets ought to go in a #bf-;inch circle1 and the penetration be equal to a small rifle4 ,weighing ,powder1 etc4--,for weighing powder charges for rifles1 ,apothecaries' scales and the ,apothecaries' table of weights and measures are used4 ,the table is3 #bj grains1 #a scruple2 #c scruples1 #a drachm2 #h drachms1 #a ounce2 #ab ounces1 #a pound4 ,powder is bought and sold by ,avoirdupois weight1 which has #af ounces to the pound4 ,the table is3 #af drachms1 #a ounce2 #af ounces1 #a pound4 ,the standard unit of weight of the ,u4 ,s41 is the pound1 ,troy weight1 the table of which is3 #bd grains1 #a pennyweight2 #bj pennyweights1 #a ounce2 #ab ounces1 #a pound4 ,the grain1 ounce1 or pound1 ,troy1 and the grain1 ounce1 and pound1 ,apothecaries' weight1 are precisely the same2 but the ounce is differently divided4 ,the grain weight is the same in both tables4 ,the pound ,avoirdupois1 like the pound ,troy1 contains #g1jjj grains4 ,the pound ,apothecaries1 contains #e1gfj grains4 ,one pound of powder1 ,avoirdupois weight1 will load #adj fifty-grain cartridges2 #ic seventy-five-grain cartridges2 #gj one-hundred-grain cartridges4 ,a dram ,avoirdupois is equal to #bg grains4 ,in weighing bullets and powder in grains1 ,troy weight is used1 and #dcg grains are equal to one ounce ,avoirdupois4 ,the drachm1 ,dixon measure1 is #bg grains1 ,troy or ,apothecaries' weight4 ,,comparative ,,sizes ,,of ,,shot4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,soft ,,shot ,,pellets ,,to ,,ounce4 ---------------------------------------- ------------- ,baltimore ,st4 ,diameter ,,description4,sparks,tatham ,le ,roy ,chicago,louis ,englishof ,shot ---------------------------------------- ------------------------- ,extra ,fine #hd1jba ,dust4 ,fine ,dust4 #aj1ghd ,dust4 #eiaj #defe ,no4 #ab4 #ccaf #bcbf #aggh #bbcb #bdjj #bhbj 0 #aa4 #affj #acdf #ihb #aecf #adad #agjj 0 #aj4 #iej #hdh #hbb #hae #hed #ajjf #agbh 0 #i4 #fae #efh #efj #fjj #eif #fhj #ihd 0 #h4 #dbf #cii #cge #cfe #dcd #dij #fjj 0 #g4 #cje #bia #bgh #bij #cbc #cfj #cda 0 #f4 #bde #bah #bji #aij #bdf #bej #bhj 0 #e4 #ahb #afh #aff #aej #agb #aij #bah 0 #d4 #acj #acb #aba #abe #adf #aeh #agg 0 #c4 #aah #ajf #ih #ij #aah #abf #ace 0 #b4 #ij #hf #hb #gj #ib #ie #aab 0 #a4 #hj #ga #fi #fj #ge #hb #hb 0 ,b4 #fc #ei #eh #ej #fb #fh #ge 0 ,b4,b4 #ee #ej #di #de #ec #ee #eh 0 ,b4,b4,b4 #dh #db #dd #dj #df #dg 0 ,a4 #ej 0 ,a4,a4 #dj 0 ,t4 #da #cf #ch #ce 0 ,t4,t4 #cf #ca #cb #cj 0 ,o4 #ch #ci 0 ,o4,o4 #cc #cd 0 ,o4,o4,o4 #bg #bh 0 ,t4,t4,t4 #bg #bf 0 ,t4,t4,t4,t4 #bd 0 ,f4 #bb #bg 0 ,f4,f4 #bd ---------------------------------------- ------------------------- ,,chilled ,,shot ,,pellets ,,to ,,ounce4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------- 0 #ab4 #ccbh #bche 0 #aa4 #afgj #achj 0 #aj4 #ifj #hfh #agjj 0 #i4 #fah #ehe #ajjj 0 #h4 #dcb #dji #fjf 0 #g4 #cah #bii #cej 0 #f4 #bec #bbc #bgj 0 #e4 #aij #agb #bbj 0 #d4 #adb #acf #ahj 0 #c4 #abj #aji #acj 0 #b4 #ajf #hh #aaj 0 #a4 #hi #gc #hj 0 ,b4 #fa 0 ,b4,b4 #eb 0 ,b4,b4,b4 #dc ,,comparative ,,sizes ,,of ,,balls ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,balls ,,to ,,pound4 ---------------------------------------- ------------- ,baltimore ,st4 ,diameter ,,description4,sparks,tatham ,le ,roy ,chicago,louis ,englishof ,shot ---------------------------------------- ------------------------- ,buck #c4 #cbj #cab 0 #h4 #cbj 0 #d4 #cjj 0 #c4 #bhh #bgj ,s4,s4,s4,g4 #bgb ,s4,s4,g4 #bdj ,buck #b4 #bab #bbe #bch #bej 0 #h4 #bcd 0 #g4 #bab #aid ,s4,g4 #agf ,buck #f4 #afe #agf ,i4 ,c4 #agd ,buck #a4 #afe #agb #afj #ahb ,o4 #aff ,buck #e4 #adg ,o4 #add #adj #ade ,m4,g4 #acf ,c4,p4 #acf ,buck #e4 #acf ,l4 ,buck4 #abh ,buck #d4 #abg ,o4,o4 #abj #abj ,buck #d4 #aac 0 #c4 #aac ,o4,o4 #aab #aac ,r4 #d4 #ajj ,o4,o4,o4 #ajj ,buck #c4 #ajj 0 #b4 #ig ,o4,o4,o4 #hh ,l4,g4 #hh ,o4,o4,o4 #he #he ,balls #ch4 #he ,n4,p4 #he ,buck #a4 #hd 0 #b4 #gj #eh4 #eh ,r4 #b4 #ee ,a4,p4 #ec ,balls #dd4 #ej #dh ,buck #a4 #ej ,r4 #a4 #cf #cb4 #cb oz4 #cb ,m4 #ah4 #ah ,m4 #af4 #af #af ---------------------------------------- ------------------------- ,,colt ,,pistol ,,sizes4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------- ,colt #ca4 ,buck #a ,buck #f 0 #cf4 ,r4 #d #jjj ,buck #c ,buck #b 0 #dd4 ,r4 #b ,b'lls ,buck #a #dd #dd ---------------------------------------- ------------------------- ,,comparative ,,sizes ,,of ,,gunpowder4 ,commencing with the ,coarsest ,grain of each ,quality4 -------------------------------------- ,oriental4 ,orange4 ,hazzard4 ,dupont4 -------------------------------------- ,,common ,,sporting4 -------------------------------------- ,c ,fg ,fg ,fg ,fg ,f,fg ,f,fg ,f,fg ,f,fg ,f,f,fg ,f,f,fg ,f,f,fg ,f,f,fg -------------------------------------- ,,fine ,,sporting4 -------------------------------------- ,falcon ,american ,no4 #a ,no4 #a 0 #b 0 #b 0 #c 0 #c ,e4 ,r4 -------------------------------------- ,,fine ,,ducking4 -------------------------------------- ,falcon ,wild ,fowl4 ,no4 #d ,no4 #e ,no4 #e ,no4 #a 0 #c 0 #d 0 #d 0 #b 0 #b 0 #c 0 #c 0 #c 0 #a 0 #b 0 #b -------------------------------------- ,,best ,,quality ,,sporting4 -------------------------------------- ,di'mond ,grain4 ,lightning ,electric4 ,no4 #d ,no4 #g ,no4 #d 0 #c 0 #f 0 #c 0 #b 0 #e 0 #b 0 #a 0 #d ,fg ,diamond ,f,fg ,grain4 ,f,f,fg -------------------------------------- ,dupont's ,eagle ,rifle powder is the finest grain of sporting powder made2 ,oriental ,falcon ,sporting1 ,no4 #c grain1 is the nearest to it in size4 ,,chapter ,,xxxiv4 ,,miscellaneous ,,recipes4 ,soft ,soldering4--,soft solder1 so called1 is a composition made by melting together two parts tin and one part lead4 ,if the gunsmith ever has occasion to use it1 he will need a soldering fluid1 which is made by dropping clippings of zinc into muriatic acid until ebullition has ceased1 then adding to the acid its equal in bulk of pure water1 although some mechanics do not consider the addition of water as necessary4 ,clean thoroughly the parts to be soldered together1 then wet them with the soldering fluid4 ,next place in the joint a thin bit of the soft solder1 and expose to heat1 the heating agent to be clear of oil4 ,the pieces should be held1 pressed between the blades of large tweezers1 so that when the solder melts the two parts will come directly together4 ,so soon as the solder melts1 the work must be taken from the fire1 as the soldering will be complete4 ,a little longer exposure would burn the solder and spoil the work4 ,good ,soft ,solder4--,good soft solder is composed of equal parts of pure tin and good soft lead4 ,the lead from old tea-chests is excellent4 ,plumbers' solder is often made of lead three parts and tin one part4 ,soldering ,fluid4--,a soldering fluid for jewelers' use is made by adding to alcohol all the chloride of zinc it will dissolve4 ,brazing4--,this consists in uniting iron and other hard-melting metals with a brass solder4 ,put the parts together as for soft soldering1 lay the brass between the pieces or along the upper edge of the joint1 if it can be held vertically1 and add a goodly supply of pulverized borax to act as a flux4 ,heat over a charcoal fire till the brass melts and runs down into the joint1 then take from the fire and cool4 ,before beginning the operation of brazing the parts to be put together must be made entirely clean1 and then freshly filed to brightness4 ,to ,braze ,lugs on ,gun ,barrels4--,when not practicable to fasten the lugs by means of pins or rivets1 hold them in place with binding wire4 ,take a piece of iron1 say inch thick and #b inches or more in width1 and make in it a slot some larger than the lug to be brazed4 ,lay the barrel on the iron sideways1 and pack up the lug so as to lie level1 if necessary1 also taking care that it is on straight4 ,pure copper is excellent for all kinds of brazing1 when the color of the copper is not objectionable4 ,hard ,soldering4--,see 8,to ,solder ,brass10 in ,chapter ,,xii1 which about covers the whole thing1 varying only in the composition of the solder for different metals4 ,the brass solder there described acts equally well for soldering copper1 but for silver a solder is made composed of two parts silver and one part brass4 ,hard ,solders4--#a4 ,a hard solder that is yellow and easily fusible is made of copper1 #d parts1 and zinc1 #e parts4 #b4 ,to hard solder iron use good tough brass or sheet copper1 with borax as a flux4 #c4 ,pure copper1 cut in thin strips1 with borax as a flux1 is excellent for brazing iron or steel4 ,alloy for ,adhering to ,iron or ,steel4--,melt together1 tin #c parts1 zinc #g parts1 and copper #ci parts4 ,clean the iron or steel1 file to brightness and cast the alloy upon it4 ,the iron or steel should be heated up to about the melting temperature of the alloy4 ,this alloy will adhere firmly to the other metal1 and as its rate of expansion is about the same as the iron or steel1 under all circumstances1 it will never come loose4 ,it finishes up nicely and presents a very neat1 light yellow appearance4 ,some gunsmiths use it for brazing purposes on account of its adhesive properties and its ease of fusion4 ,it does not make so strong a joint as brass or copper1 and therefore would not give so 8honest0 a job4 ,gun ,oil4--,a good quality of sperm oil is undoubtedly the best oil to apply to gun work1 especially the locks4 ,any fine animal oil may be used as a substitute4 ,the oil from the fat of the woodchuck or ground-hog is admired by many4 ,fine quality of sewing-machine oil is very good4 ,it must not be thinned or 8cut0 with kerosene or benzine1 as this reduces its wearing quality4 ,it must not thicken with exposure to the cold4 ,vegetable oils are unfit for the locks of guns4 ,castor oil will gum up and become filthy in the extreme4 ,olive oil or 8sweet oil0 has very often been agitated1 with common salt1 nitric ether1 sulphuric acid or hydrochloric acid to keep it from becoming rancid4 ,application of such oil1 in addition to its bad lubricating quality1 will rust and spoil work where applied4 ,if desired to clarify oil1 put in a bottle1 say a quart of oil1 and add about half a pound of fine lead shavings4 ,in a short time the impurities will collect on the lead1 when the clarified portion may be poured off4 ,let the bottle stand in the sun for two or three weeks during the process1 and then filter through fine white blotting-paper4 ,if some portion be found to congeal by cold1 separate the clear portion from the other1 reserving the uncongealed for use during exposure of the gun to cold weather4 ,gunsmith's ,glue4--,dissolve four ounces of good glue in sixteen ounces of strong acetic acid by exposure to gentle heat4 ,this is not exactly a liquid glue preparation--it is only semi-liquid4 ,it may be kept for any length of time desired1 and1 when wanted for use1 a slight warming up is all the preparation necessary4 ,the gunsmith finds it not only very convenient1 in case he should have occasion to use glue about his woodwork1 but also very good4 ,,chapter ,,xxxv4 ,,on ,,judging ,,the ,,quality ,,of ,,guns4 ,the ,muzzle-,loading ,shot-,gun4--,in the days when the gun of this character was at its zenith1 its quality could be approximately decided upon by a glance at the manufacturer's brand which it bore1 but at present that rule cannot be so safely trusted4 ,many of the houses which built for themselves a fine reputation by the manufacture of fine guns of the muzzle-loading order1 have either ceased to exist1 or have gone exclusively into the manufacture of breech-loaders1 consequently the old brands1 though they may still be met with1 are not reliable4 ,in truth they are more often dangerous signs than otherwise1 in consequence of the fact that unscrupulous manufacturers not unfrequently apply them surreptitiously as an agent to aid in working off their bogus goods4 ,it is1 therefore1 best to give brands but little consideration in judging the quality of new muzzle-loaders1 trusting mainly on personal knowledge as to what a good gun should be1 backed up by thorough test in all cases where such a thing is necessary4 ,the man capable of becoming a good gunsmith will require no special rules for his government in this matter4 ,he will know that a steel gun is preferable to an iron gun1 and he will be able to readily distinguish between steel and iron4 ,he will also know that a gun finely finished in every particular1 is1 undoubtedly1 a better gun than one put together in the rough1 and his own eyes will quickly tell him as to the finish4 ,prompted by these considerations1 the muzzle-loading shot-gun is turned over to the good sense of the gunsmith for adjudgement as to superior or inferior qualities1 leaving him to decide upon it1 unbiased by any rules that could be given1 which is the most rational course to pursue1 since1 under existing circumstances it would be impossible to make rules that would be entirely reliable4 ,the ,muzzle-loading ,rifle4--,in the case of the old-fashioned ,kentucky rifle1 still on the market in limited numbers1 eyesight and test1 if necessary1 will have to be the main reliance of the gunsmith in judging of quality4 ,the barrel of a first-quality gun of this character is wrought iron1 made eight-square1 and finely finished4 ,the lock is steel1 well put up1 and provided with double or set triggers4 ,the stock is either black-walnut or maple highly polished and oil-finished4 ,the bore is given as perfect a degree of finish as iron is capable of taking1 and the rifles are deeply-cut and entirely regular all the way through4 ,the sights are made with great care1 some of the finest guns having an elevating hind-sight to be changed for long or short range--say1 for #ejj or #ej yards4 ,in some of the older made guns the foresights are silver1 though as a general rule they are made of some kind of white metal compound not so liable to glimmer as silver4 ,the tube-cylinder has a vent screw in the end of it1 which may be taken out for the purpose of working in powder in case a ball should have been accidently put down without powder1 which accident1 without this provision1 would be apt to necessitate an unbreeching of the gun4 ,the barrels are of different lengths1 ranging from #bf to #dj inches1 and the size of bore is equally varied4 ,it is usually estimated by the number of round bullets a pound of lead will cast to fit it1 as #bjj 7smallest bore71 #age1 #ajj1 and so on down to #ej1 which is considered the largest bore in common use4 ,the weight of the gun complete usually ranges at from six to twelve pounds4 ,a steel-barrel rifle made on the ,kentucky plan may be met with occasionally1 though not often4 ,the steel barrel generally adds about five dollars in cost over that of the iron barrel finished in the same way1 and is supposed to be at least that much better on account of less liability to wear and roughen in the bore4 ,the muzzle-loading rifle of more modern style differs very materially from the old ,kentucky rifle in many respects4 ,mr4 ,barber1 in his 8,crack ,shot10 says of it that so many changes are constantly taking place1 and opinions are so diversified1 that it is really difficult to state what is the prevailing style2 but he is of opinion that a barrel of from thirty to thirty-four inches in length1 with a bore from thirty-eight hundredths inch to forty-four hundredths inch will be found to answer best for general purposes4 ,if for sporting purposes exclusively the barrel ought to be a little shorter1 perhaps1 though he believes the great hunters of the plains use rifles with barrels of from thirty five to forty inches in length1 and of a calibre so small as to enable them to make sixty round balls out of one pound of lead4 ,but1 still adopting ,barber1 it is very difficult to lay down particular rules as to what a muzzle-loading rifle of modern style should be1 as marksmen and gunmakers are both whimsical1 and each has his set ideas and notions concerning the matter4 ,some advocate a long barrel1 while others maintain that anything beyond thirty-three inches militates against good shooting4 ,there are many prominent establishments engaged in the manufacture of modern muzzle-loading rifles1 some of them carrying splendid reputations1 hence in this case a good deal of reliance can be placed upon brands4 ,for instance1 should a rifle be seen marked to ,wesson1 it is a guarantee of a good gun1 for the reputation of the manufacturer is worth too much to admit of risking its tarnish by putting upon the market goods bearing his brand that are not fully up to all that is claimed for them4 ,and now that reference has been made incidentally to ,wesson1 a description may as well be made of some of the peculiarities of his muzzle-loading rifle as presenting a fair sample of a first-class gun of this order4 ,and to do this under the best of authority1 reference is made to ,mr4 ,chapman's book on the ,rifle1 which is generally accepted as a standard work4 ,referring to the ,wesson muzzle-loading rifle1 ,mr4 ,chapman says that the barrel is made of cast steel1 not highly carbonized1 but thoroughly annealed in an air-tight oven4 ,the length of the barrel is two feet eight inches when the loading muzzle is off4 ,outside1 the barrel tapers a little from breech to muzzle1 the difference in diameter being one fourth of an inch4 ,the barrel is not furnished with a rib1 except it be that the short tube at the breech can be called a rib1 the peculiarity of stocking doing away with the necessity for a regular rib4 ,the gun has a patent breech1 which is made of iron case-hardened4 ,it is joined to the break-off by the old-fashioned hook1 with the addition of a half-lap joint1 secured by a square-headed screw4 ,such a mode of fastening the barrel destroys the necessity for wood forward of the breech1 and gives a peculiarly elegant and striking appearance to the arm4 ,the loading-muzzle is put on by means of four steel wire pins about one-eighth of an inch in diameter and three-eighths long1 and the holes for these pins are located as near the outside as possible4 ,the grooves of this rifle are cut with a twist1 which turns the bullet once in three feet six inches4 ,there are six grooves1 and the spaces between them are left entirely square to the interior surface1 presenting a kind of dove-tail appearance4 ,the grooves are not quite so wide as the spaces between them4 ,the breech is furnished with a vent or breathing nipple1 about the diameter of a common pin1 and bushed with platinum4 ,the lock has back-action1 furnished with a single set4 ,the stock is of black walnut1 made as straight as possible4 ,it is furnished with a patch box1 and also a small box to contain a wiper1 which can be attached to the end of the ramrod4 ,a globe sight is fixed into the stock1 just behind the break-off1 while a bead sight holds position at the muzzle-end of the barrel4 ,the weight of the gun complete is ten pounds4 ,of course it will be clearly understood that this description is not offered as of the best muzzle-loading rifle made1 but simply because it happened to be convenient to make4 ,there are1 doubtless1 other guns equally as good1 and a preference of one over the other1 in all probability1 would have to be born of circumstances1 as something peculiar in the tastes or requirements of the person by whom the gun was to be used1 or in the particular line of use to which it was to be applied4 ,the ,breech-loading ,shot ,gun4--,gloan tells us that1 in judging the quality of a breech-loader1 there are other things to be taken into consideration besides the mere shooting of the gun4 ,first among these is its safety relative to the person using it4 ,there is more machinery and complication about it than there is about the muzzle-loader1 and to that extent1 if not made upon sound principles1 and perfectly well made1 it is more dangerous1 to say nothing of being less durable4 ,but the principle must be a prime consideration1 for1 if a gun1 no matter how well made1 is constructed with a working movement which presents great strain and great friction1 it must speedily wear out4 ,even the best breech-loader1 with the soundest known action1 must wear out sooner than would an arm of less complication1 because some peculiar strain and friction cannot possibly be avoided2 hence the great importance of passing judgment entirely favorable upon only the best4 ,the first thing to decide upon1 then1 is the principle upon which the gun works4 ,no special rules can be given to govern in the formation of this decision other than that simplicity is always worthy of favorable consideration--the greater the simplicity the better1 provided it works to the full accomplishment of all the ends desired4 ,next to simplicity may be ranked durability1 and next to this may come in good shooting and safety4 ,these last two considerations are put as third and fourth1 when many persons would be inclined to rank them as second and first4 ,why this is done is because many of the most common guns are safe enough1 so far as that is concerned1 while not a few of them shoot very well for a while4 ,some most excellent shooting has been done with extremely common guns1 working upon a principle so complicated and so imperfect as to render it impossible for them to remain in order beyond a comparatively short length of time4 ,the ,english manufacturers1 of good reputation1 take great pains with their breech-loading shot-guns2 hence1 until within a very few years1 ,english guns were considered entirely superior to those of ,american make1 but now it is acknowledged1 even by the ,english people1 that in ,america we put up1 at least1 some guns that have no superiors4 ,this last named fact has somewhat destroyed the weight of ,english brands with persons who are looking for a gun of the very best quality4 ,but the advance on the part of ,american gunmakers is not the only thing that has worked against the reputation of ,english guns for being eminently the best4 ,the gun-making business of ,belgium has seriously injured the general good name of ,english guns1 just as the watch-making business of ,switzerland has injured the good name of ,english watches4 ,for instance1 ,liege1 in ,belgium1 is almost literally a city of gunmakers4 ,it is estimated that there are now more small fire-arms made in ,liege than in all the rest of the world put together1 though ,liege gets credit for comparatively few of them4 ,the different parts are manufactured there1 and shipped to other countries as gunmakers' materials1 where they are put together and branded with the name of a maker who really played no part whatever in the making4 ,in ,liege each manufacturing house is devoted to the manufacture of but a single part1 knowing nothing whatever of the other parts manufactured at other establishments4 ,as a result the gun made of ,liege materials is simply a patchwork1 and hence could not possibly be so reliable as a gun whose every part is made in the same establishment1 and under the eye of the same general superintendent4 ,england has gone largely into the putting up of these patchwork guns1 simply for the reason that she can buy the ,liege materials much cheaper than she can make them at home4 ,this cheapness is due to the inferior materials used by the ,liege manufacturers1 and to the extremely low rate of wages in ,belgium4 ,it is asserted1 upon good authority1 that the ,english 8manufacturer0 can get his finished materials from ,liege1 paying regular ,government duty1 and put together what would appear to be a fair quality of double-barrel breech-loading shot-gun1 at the cost of about seven dollars4 ,and he does it1 giving the gun to the market under his own brand1 or surreptitiously under that of some other house known to be more reliable than his own4 ,as a consequence1 ,english reputation is sadly injured as regards the business of making the best guns1 and gunsmiths can no longer trust to ,english brands as a sure guarantee of first-class quality4 ,of course there are some ,english manufacturers whom it will always do to trust1 provided one knows to a certainty that the gun is really genuine4 ,if that patchwork game is played in this country at all it is on a small scale as yet1 and is confined to the cheapest guns4 ,a gun from any of our prominent houses is quite sure to be as represented2 and1 until the gunsmith becomes so familiar with all the requirements of a good gun1 the maker's price may be taken as a pretty safe rule by which to judge of quality4 ,each manufacturing house is apt to have its guns graded1 and priced accordingly--the higher the price asked the better the gun in every case1 for it is as much the desire of the prominent manufacturer to make a good name as it is to make a good gun4 ,of course this rule can only be considered entirely safe in case where the scale of prices has been obtained directly from headquarters4 ,passing through half a dozen or so of middle houses might work important changes from the original price list4 ,where none of these rules can be brought to bear it is but natural that the inexperienced gunsmith should turn to his ,,manual for aid in forming judgment upon the quality of the gun4 ,a few general ideas may not be out of place4 ,all the movements of the action should be smooth1 and all the joints should fit to perfection4 ,the locks should have due consideration4 ,when the hammer is drawn back it should come with less and less resistance as it rises1 and vise versa when the hammer is let down1 exerting its greatest power immediately on reaching the nipple or firing-pin4 ,but this increase and decrease of power should be extremely gradual1 and not great4 ,throughout the movement there should be a steadiness and freeness1 or1 as ,gloan says1 an oiliness1 which when once realized1 can never afterwards be mistaken4 ,and when by a regular pressure upon the trigger the hammer is expertly raised and lowered in rapid succession1 the locks should emit a clear ringing sound at the whole and half-cock with the resonance and regularity of beats in music4 ,when once heard1 this1 too1 can never afterwards be mistaken4 ,the locks which perform to perfection under the tests mentioned are technically said to 8speak well40 ,turning from the lock to the lever1 the latter should close with such ease as not to require any particular exertion of the wrist1 and when closed it should hold with such a degree of firmness as to place safety1 while discharging the gun1 entirely beyond question4 ,the wedges of the action should be fully and squarely set in the lump4 ,if a pin gun the pin should fit in the hole with nicety4 ,if too tight1 the barrels might not close1 or the pin might be held back to such an extent that the cap would not be exploded4 ,if too loose an unnecessary escape of gas at the discharge would be unavoidable1 to the discomfort of the gunner and the weakening of the shot4 ,if a central fire the plungers should strike the centre of the cap unvaryingly4 ,the hammer should come upon the plunger with a blow--not a mere push4 ,the countersink of the chambers1 and the length and breadth of the action bed1 should be closely observed4 ,the countersink should be cut clean and deep enough to take the rim of the cartridge without leaving the slightest projection--else the gun will not shut perfectly4 ,but if1 on the contrary1 the countersink be too deep the cartridge comes back on the breech before the charge makes its exit1 which increases the recoil and renders accuracy less certain4 ,the central fire strikers should not be too short1 an imperfection which might cause the discharge of the gun while closing it4 ,on the other hand1 they should not be too long1 as that would interfere with the free motion of the gun4 ,in the case of a pin gun the pin should invariably stand in exact line with the hammer1 otherwise the blow would be apt to bend it1 and the chances for exploding the cap would be less certain4 ,there should be no crevices between the wood and iron4 ,if any such crevice exists between the stock and the false breech it is likely that the wood was green when put up1 which would settle it that the gun was not the work of a responsible maker1 for no such person would work imperfectly-seasoned wood4 ,the extractor of the central fire should never be permitted to escape the closest scrutiny4 ,it should work without the slightest hitch1 and its arms should enclose about one-half of the cartridge rim4 ,the countersink should fit the rim precisely1 in order that there may be no slipping4 ,the ,breech-,loading ,rifle4--,most of the rules suggested as aids in forming judgment upon the quality of the breech-loading shot gun1 can be trusted as bearing with equal force in case of the breech-loading rifle4 ,the makers of breech-loading rifles in the ,united ,states have won for themselves a noble reputation throughout the world2 and1 to be perfectly plain1 there are very few unreliable manufacturers to be met with among them4 ,as a consequence1 there is not much risk to run in passing judgment upon a breech-loading rifle of ,american make4 ,the first thing to decide upon is the principle1 if there is a preference in this direction4 ,such decision brings up the gun of some particular maker1 after which the road is easy enough--the price set upon the grade of gun by the maker1 may always be accepted as a clear indication of its quality4 ,in referring thus to ,american rifles the idea is not advanced that good guns are not made in other countries--such a position would be going wide of the truth4 ,there are some gunmakers in ,england who turn out the finest rifles that the world has yet seen1 and the most costly4 ,they are models of perfection in every particular1 but when the best shooting is ascertained it is discovered that they have not proven themselves superior in that respect1 to the more substantial 7generally speaking71 but less finely finished and less expensive guns of the ,american makers4 ,it is this matter of a really good rifle at comparatively low figures that has given the ,american product such an enviable reputation throughout the world4 ,then there is another reason for favorable mention of ,american rifles in cases where the quality of the gun is to be judged--there are fewer chances for meeting with counterfeits on ,american guns than there are on guns of foreign make4 ,here the gunmaker is so deeply concerned in his own good name that it would be very unsafe to attempt running a 8bogus0 upon him--he would trace it to the 8last ditch40 ,not so in case of the ,english maker--having no direct interests thrown all over this country like a network1 as have the ,american makers1 he would1 in all probability1 never hear of the bogus gun branded to him and sold on his good reputation for many times more than it was really worth4 ,in case where there are no means of getting at the quality of a rifle from the grade affixed and tests made by a responsible manufacturer1 the gunsmith will of course be forced to fall back upon his own resources4 ,what these are we need not state4 ,the gun must be subjected to a most critical examination in every part1 in obedience to rules laid down for examining breech-loading shot guns1 after which its shooting qualities must be thoroughly tested4 ,to no botch at the business can be trusted the shooting test1 if it be wished to decide whether or not a certain rifle can be recommended as being of first-class quality--the work must be performed at the hands of an expert1 and it must be continued until is secured unmistakable proof as to how the gun shoots4 ,when a man buys a good rifle he does it in the expectation of becoming the owner of a gun qualified to shoot well1 and1 no matter how perfect it might be in all other respects1 the slightest deficiency in this particular would be sure to rouse a high degree of uncompromising dissatisfaction4 ,,chapter ,,xxxvi4 ,,on ,,using ,,the ,,rifle4 ,the ,old ,kentucky ,rifle4--,the old backwoods hunters who used the long ,kentucky rifle1 had really but a very imperfect idea of its capabilities4 ,the gun was provided with a hind and a fore-sight1 the latter a 8bead0 located near the muzzle and rising but little above the common level of the surface of the barrel1 and the former a small vertical plate set in the barrel a short distance in advance of the lock1 and containing in the centre of its upper edge a fine slit through which to look at the 8bead0 in the act of taking aim4 ,the hind-sight stood further above the barrel than the fore-sight1 but why it so stood was something about which the owner seldom concerned himself4 ,of course the gunsmith knew it was for the purpose of setting the 8aim0 below the starting line of the bullet1 in order that the natural curve in its flight might be accommodated1 but this was usually a secret of the gunsmiths which nobody cared to possess4 ,the sight was immovable1 could neither be raised nor lowered1 consequently the gun could not be adapted to circumstances of long or short range4 ,the elevation of the sight usually crossed the line of vision and that of the flight of the bullet at about one hundred yards distance1 hence the shooting at shorter range was apt to be a little too high and too low at longer range4 ,at two hundred yards it was merely accidental1 though the bullet struck with a degree of force apparently unabated at that distance4 ,if the hunter killed his game at two hundred yards1 he did it by aiming a few feet too high for a 8sight0 at one hundred yards1 consequently he never shot at that distance so long as there was a prospect of being able to creep nearer4 ,and yet1 with the right kind of elevated sight the gun would have been equally as effectual at two hundred yards as at one hundred2 in truth it would have been good for four and perhaps six hundred yards1 but the old hunter had not so much as a dream of any such thing1 but went creeping about through the woods endeavoring to steal upon his game1 unconsciously carrying upon his shoulder an instrument that with so simple a contrivance as an elevated sight of proper grade might have brought it down almost as far as the eye could have seen it4 ,and the game well knew the limited capacity of his gun1 particularly the deer1 which would frisk off to the distance of about three hundred yards and there stop1 turn around1 stamp their feet and 8whistle0 at him in apparent derision4 ,ah6 that he had understood the real capabilities of his gun1 and had suddenly invented and applied an elevated or long-range sight made after some of the approved modern plans1 how he would have astonished them6 ,in those days of pioneer life in the ,states now no longer on the frontier1 8match shooting0 7it was not called target shooting1 then7 was always confined to a certain distance1 sixty yards off-hand or one hundred yards with a rest4 ,the marksman was permitted to take his own choice of modes4 8,shooting matches0 were very common in those earlier times1 usually for beef4 ,a fat ox was put up to be shot for at so much per shot1 something on the plan of the modern raffle4 ,when the amount asked for the animal had been made up1 the shooting commenced4 ,the best shot took first choice1 which was one of the hind quarters of the ox1 the second best took second choice1 which was the other hind quarter2 the third best took third choice1 which was one of the fore quarters1 and so on to the fifth choice1 which consisted of the hide and tallow4 ,happy occasions1 indeed1 were those old 8shooting matches10 and splendid1 indeed1 was some of the shooting4 ,a regular attendance upon numerous target matches of more modern times1 with all the modern appliances1 in the hands of marksmen with national reputations1 has never shown us better shooting at sixty yards1 off-hand1 or one hundred yards with a rest4 ,general ,directions4--,mr4 ,edward ,c4 ,barber1 author of the 8,crack ,shot10 says the greatest care and nicety is required in loading any kind of rifle1 if we desire to have it shoot with accuracy4 ,a few grains too much or too little powder will alter the range of the bullet1 and the bullet itself1 if not placed in the barrel exactly right1 in the case of the muzzle-loader1 will come out at an irregular angle1 and1 instead of going straight to the mark1 will be turned sideways4 ,this trouble is avoided by the use of a 8starter10 to be had at any gun store4 ,supposing that a young man has just possessed himself of a rifle1 but who knows nothing of its use save such information as he has been able to gather from mere theorists4 ,he makes choice of a suitable place for taking his first practical lesson1 where there is no danger of inflicting harm upon disinterested persons4 ,he puts up his target and steps off fifty yards1 or it might be better to measure it more accurately than by stepping4 ,suppose the gun to be a first-class modern muzzle-loader4 ,the target is now arranged2 proceed to load4 ,grasp the barrel of the gun near the muzzle2 turn it round so that the lock is outward1 then pour from the flask the proper charge of powder1 using the charger which the gunmaker has furnished4 ,be sure that the charger is exactly full--no more nor less4 ,pour the powder gently down the barrel1 holding the latter upright so that none of the powder will lodge in the grooves or rifles4 ,get ready a 8patch10 which has been previously prepared by oiling on one side a piece of fine but substantial linen with sperm oil such as is used for sewing machines1 and cutting out with a 8patch-cutter10 always to be had with a new gun4 ,place this patch over the muzzle1 oiled side downward1 and then set the bullet perfectly straight and true in the muzzle1 and with the 8starter0 press it downward two or three inches1 using the ramrod to force it home4 ,avoid the common error of 8ramming0 home the bullet1 for two reasons3 firstly1 because the bullet being jammed on the powder meals and grinds it1 thereby depriving it of a portion of its strength1 and1 secondly1 because injury is done to the face of the ball1 which works against its taking a perfectly true and accurate flight4 ,the old plan of making the ramrod rebound to prove that the ball was home1 as mentioned in another chapter1 was wrong4 ,nothing more than a moderate pressure is necessary1 and if you are not willing to trust to this a mark on your ramrod1 to come exactly to the muzzle when the ball is entirely down1 will always tell the tale4 ,now place a cap on the tube or nipple1 which is1 doubtless1 full of powder1 and the 8shootist0 is ready for operations4 ,there are two modes of shooting with a rifle3 off-hand1 and with a rest1 as has already been intimated4 ,choose the mode that suits best1 and begin practice4 ,off-hand ,shooting4--,barber says the position which should be chosen for off-hand shooting is one that admits of a good deal of discussion4 ,there is great difference of opinion on the subject1 some good shots contending that they never could see any difference in their shooting1 whether they were in one position or the other2 while others maintain that it is absolutely necessary to good shooting that certain fixed rules should be adhered to4 ,there are three recognized methods of firing1 viz41 the ,british or ,hythe position1 the ,swiss position and the ,american position4 ,in the first named1 the rifleman stands perfectly erect1 head slightly bent forward1 feet at right angles to each other1 the left advanced about twelve inches1 the right arm raised well up1 the left hand advanced so as to take a firm yet easy grip of the rifle1 the butt of which is to be pressed firmly against the right shoulder1 the right hand grasping firmly the small of the stock4 ,captain ,heaton describes the second method1 or ,swiss position1 by stating that no particular manner of placing the feet is required4 ,the whole body is kept perfectly rigid1 the chest expanded as much as possible1 against which the left elbow is allowed to rest1 the rifle being held with the left hand as near the trigger guard as it can be placed4 ,the ,swiss rifles have a kind of handle provided for this purpose4 ,the upper part of the body is thrown back4 ,before firing the ,swiss marksman invariably takes a long1 deep inspiration1 which he holds until the bullet has left his rifle1 when he breaks the suspension with a loud grunt of satisfaction if the shot happens to please him4 ,in the ,american position1 to draw again from ,barber1 the legs are kept wide apart1 body slightly bent backward1 the left shoulder a little back2 with the left hand he grasps the rifle well out1 bringing the arm nearly under the barrel1 so as to form a support2 the right arm is thrown out square1 similar to the style adopted in the ,english position4 ,the butt of the rifle is not pressed against the shoulder1 but in the hollow between the biceps muscle and the shoulder4 ,cleveland prefers this method to that of the ,english1 but ,barber does not1 as he considers it more constrained than the other4 ,but1 of course1 great men must differ2 the world could not get along all right were it otherwise4 ,the matter of method had best be left to stand as a matter of taste1 or of feeling as to convenience to the marksman1 as very good shooting has been done through all of them4 ,having settled this point1 bring the rifle up carefully into position1 the eye being steadily fixed upon the object to be fired at2 slowly raise the barrel until the sights and the object are in direct line1 and the instant that this condition is fully apparent press upon the trigger1 still keeping the eye steadily on the mark4 ,it is always best to hold the breath at the instant of firing2 and in pressing the trigger the forearm alone should act1 the arm and wrist being stationary4 ,no other movement of the body or any member thereof should take place between the time of securing aim and discharging the gun4 ,the aim should be quickly taken--a long dwell1 with wabblings on and wabblings off the mark is apt to do more harm than good4 ,on this point ,frank ,forrester says3 8,though it is necessary to get a sure aim before firing1 it is not necessary to dwell on it before doing so4 ,every second between having taken true sight and the giving fire is a second lost1 or worse than lost2 for the longer the rifle is held to the face1 the greater the tension of the muscles and nerves1 and the likelier are both to shake and give way4 ,the first true sight is always1 with all fire-arms1 the best sight1 and a quick shot has as much or more advantage over a slow shot1 with the rifle as with any other weapon40 ,barber says he considers 8the pull of the trigger a very important consideration2 it should not be too slight1 so as to go off almost involuntarily1 nor so hard as to require force1 but so that1 by a gentle pressure1 commenced at the moment of taking aim1 the slightest extra squeeze will cause the hammer to fall at the very instant when the aim is perfected40 ,rest ,shooting4--,if the old-fashioned backwoods hunters shot with a rest at all that rest had nothing complicated about it1 being usually only the side of a tree4 ,the rifle was brought up against the side of a tree and pressed there with the left hand1 which held it pretty much after the plan employed in the ,american method of off-hand shooting4 ,if the object to be fired at was occupying an elevated position1 as a squirrel among the branches of a neighboring tree1 this kind of rest was a very easy and good one1 but it was not so easy where a horizontal shot had to be made4 ,in match-shooting with a rest the most common plan was to lie upon the ground1 face downward1 somewhat in the natural position of a swimmer1 and put the gun out in front1 its muzzle resting upon a small log or block of wood4 ,these plans are still more or less in vogue in all regions where the old-style ,kentucky rifle remains in common use4 ,the most popular modern rest1 according to ,barber1 is to have a bench made about three and a half feet long and ten inches wide1 with four stout legs standing out at considerable angle4 ,the height should be about level with the breast when sitting down4 ,at one end place a stout piece of wood about five or six inches high1 crosswise1 with notches cut in it to lay the barrel in4 ,it should be well covered with cloth or some other soft material1 and should be securely fastened to the bench4 ,the end of the bench nearest the shooter may be hollowed out a little for the breast to fit in4 ,this is a rest for target shooting--it would not be well suited for the hunter to carry around in the woods with him1 of course4 ,the same authority tells how to make a cheaper rest1 by tying three moderately stout sticks together near the top1 and then throwing out the other ends upon the ground after the manner of the feet of a tripod4 ,place your coat in the crotch formed at the top to rest your rifle upon--that is all there is of it4 ,having decided upon the kind of rest to be used1 the question of rest-shooting is settled1 as everything else is performed the same as in shooting off-hand4 ,most modern sportsmen object to rest-shooting to such an extent that no artificial rest is admitted at their target matches4 ,their reasons for such objections are that a rest is an inconvenient arrangement that could not be employed either in war or field-sports1 and hence1 people ought to learn to shoot well without it4 ,and they do1 but in many instances they shoot with a rest at last1 making one of themselves by lying upon the ground and shooting off the knee or some other part of the person1 or by setting the elbows upon the ground so as to brace with the gun as permanently as any artificial rest could possible be4 ,the methods employed by the noted marksmen1 ,messrs4 ,fulton and ,bodine1 were of this character4 ,,chapter ,,xxxvii4 ,,on ,,using ,,the ,,shot-,,gun4 ,born ,shooters4--,every man who uses a gun at all will feel an ambition to use it skillfully1 and when he finds himself falling short of his aspirations he will apply to his gunsmith for instructions1 for the gunsmith is expected to set the owner all right as well as his gun4 ,there will be some difference in results to the gunsmith1 however1 for when the gun gets out of fix1 and the gunsmith repairs the imperfections1 the owner expects to pay for services rendered1 but not so with reference to himself4 ,he will expect the gunsmith to spend an hour or so in telling him how to shoot1 but it will not occur to him that time is worth the same in dollars and cents spend it as we may1 hence he will never think of tendering the slightest remuneration for the time consumed in giving him instructions4 ,we have often thought that a chapter in some book telling about all there is to tell the novice on the subject of shooting would be worth a great deal to the gunsmith1 as he could turn it over to his inquiring customers and go on about his work1 leaving them to sift out from the 8black and white0 the information desired1 taking their own time for it1 and digesting everything in accordance with their own notions4 ,and right here1 it may be remarked1 is a proper place to put in just such a chapter1 which is done without further preface4 ,some popular writer has said that1 like the poet1 the first-class shot with a gun1 or the 8dead shot10 as he is often called1 must be born such--he cannot be made4 ,good shooting is a fine art1 and in none of the fine arts can perfection be acquired where there does not exist a natural talent1 or natural capacity1 if the term be better4 ,any man with fair calculation and a reasonably good mechanical eye may1 by practice1 become a very passable shot1 but without this peculiar natural requirement1 which no one can clearly explain1 it will be impossible for him to ever excel as an expert marksman4 ,it is not often that a real born shot is met with--they are about as scarce as true poets and true painters4 ,when one does meet with him one soon knows him1 if there is any shooting going on4 ,perhaps he is at his first shooting match4 ,he does not know himself as a 8shootist10 possibly4 ,curiosity alone1 it may be1 prompts him to try a shot1 so he takes the gun1 and wholly without study or previous experience1 blazes away1 and1 to the astonishment of all present1 shoots almost to perfection4 ,it is in him as a gift4 ,some peculiar balance in his organization is the cause of it1 and it is folly to be envious even in the least degree4 ,nor is it worth while to despair because such a peculiar balance of organization did not happen to fall to 8our0 lot4 ,if there be a wish to succeed1 a little patient study1 industry and practice may soon bring the 8shootist0 up to the average at least1 and that will leave no reasonable cause for complaint4 ,how to ,shoot4--,this part of the subject need not be brought down to the simple operation of merely discharging a gun1 for it is supposed that every person with common sense1 and old enough to handle a gun would know how to discharge it when loaded4 ,what is meant1 then1 by 8how to shoot10 is how to shoot well1 and to enable any one to do this1 one of the most important requisites lies in taking aim on the object at which is expected to be shot4 ,most young gunners close one eye in this operation1 which1 according to the best authorities1 is entirely wrong4 ,a man will learn to take correct aim with a shot-gun much sooner by keeping both eyes naturally open than he will by holding one closed4 ,once got in the habit of shooting with a closed eye1 it will be found a most difficult habit to break up--the 8hiding eye0 will 8close up0 just as the finger is being pressed upon the trigger4 ,and with that 8closing up0 is very apt to come a deviation of the gun from the line of correct aim4 ,some years ago ,mr4 ,dougall1 in his 8,shooting ,simplified10 advanced many strong arguments in favor of shooting with both eyes open1 basing them upon correct science4 ,he says the person who takes aim with one eye closed has robbed himself of half his vision4 ,the single open eye cannot see the whole of the object at which it looks1 but only a part1 or one side of it4 ,then1 it requires the use of both eyes to see and calculate distance correctly4 ,one eye may outline a thing1 but it calls for the employment of two eyes to give it a perfect perspective4 ,when an object is hastily caught within the range of both eyes1 the sense of vision is instantly assured as to position of the object1 its distance from the gun1 and1 if moving1 the rate of speed at which it is going4 ,by a mental operation the brain is promptly impressed with all this1 giving confidence and1 consequently1 calmness4 ,here the main point favoring success has been attained--calmness and a strong belief that the shot is going to succeed4 ,the moment when this is felt is the one in which to press upon the trigger4 ,it means that a correct sight is secured1 whether there be time to think about it or not1 and hence an instantaneous discharge of the gun is almost sure to bring down the game4 ,since beginning to write this book one of the authors interviewed a wonderfully successful sportsman with reference to his mode of taking aim at birds on the wing4 8,why1 bless your soul60 said he1 8,i never take aim at all4 ,i throw my gun in range of the bird1 look at the bird with both eyes open1 and the moment a feeling comes over me that ,i shall kill the bird if ,i shoot1 ,i pull the trigger1 and it's about always my bird40 ,so it is4 ,but this expert is evidently mistaken with reference to taking aim3 he takes aim mechanically4 ,he thinks only about killing the bird1 without thinking about taking aim1 and in response to the securing of a perfect aim comes the feeling1 unexplained in his thoughts1 that if he shoots he shall kill the bird4 ,it is simply a powerful concentration of thought1 which is always of paramount importance in shooting4 ,a mind scattering over all creation at the time of shooting is no more to be depended upon for good results than a gun scattering to all sides of a ten-acre field4 ,there must be concentration in both cases4 ,a man cannot buy goods1 grow crops1 swap horses1 make poetry1 edit a newspaper and kill birds on the wing with unvarying success all at the same instant4 ,brewster on the ,use of ,two ,eyes4--,as the novice who has not devoted much thought to the subject of shooting1 will be apt to feel some surprise at the idea of the use of both eyes being recommended in taking aim1 the liberty will be assumed of quoting a paragraph from the writings of ,sir ,david ,brewster1 offering it as evidence in substantiation of the foregoing position4 ,in his able work on the ,stereoscope he says3 8,when we look with both eyes open at a sphere1 or any other solid object1 we see it by uniting into one two pictures--one as seen by the right1 and the other as seen by the left eye4 ,if we hold up a thin book perpendicularly1 and midway between both eyes1 we see distinctly the back of it and both sides with the eyes open4 ,when we shut the right eye1 we see with the left eye the back of the book and the left side of it2 and when we shut the left eye1 we see with the right eye the back of it and the right side4 ,the picture of the book1 therefore1 which we see with both eyes1 consists of two dissimilar pictures united1 namely1 a picture of the back and left side of the book as seen by the left eye1 and a picture of the back and right side of the book as seen by the right eye40 ,this argues that the sportsman who closes one eye at the time of taking aim at an away-going bird1 really has a very imperfect view of it--but half a picture1 as it were--hence the aim could not possibly be so perfect as in case where the picture was rendered more distinct by the use of both eyes1 in accordance with the clear explanation of ,sir ,david1 who goes on to state3 8,but though we see with one eye the direction in which any object or point of an object is situated1 we do not see its position or the distance from the eye at which it is placed4 ,in monocular vision we learn from experience to estimate all distances1 but particularly great ones1 by various tests1 which are called the criteria of distance1 but it is only with both eyes that we can estimate with anything like accuracy the distance of objects not far from us4 8,the most important advantage which we derive from the use of two eyes is to enable us to see distance1 or a third dimension in space4 ,that this vision is not the result of experience as monocular vision is1 is obvious from the fact that distance is seen as perfectly by children as by adults2 and it has been proved by naturalists that animals newly-born appreciate distance with the greatest correctness40 ,dougall's ,reasoning4--,mr4 ,dougall says1 in his 8,shooting ,simplified10 that 8,a thorough good gun will knock over a hare running broadside1 with four or five shots at seventy yards distance1 but full elevation must be taken1 and the gun fired with the head well raised and the eyes kept steady on the aim1 not taking sight along the rib1 with the eye well down behind the breech1 as has been erroneously recommended4 8,distance requires elevation in proportion4 ,a rifle is fitted with graduated sights to meet this1 but the elevation of the rib of a fowling-piece is fixed and immovable4 ,but by a simple law of perspective1 when you look at a hare 7or any other object7 seventy yards away1 bringing mechanically the sight to bear upon it1 you have the breech of the gun lower than if it were only forty yards off2 whereas1 if you adopt the one-eye system1 you fire at exactly the same elevation at all distances4 ,it would be as absurd to take a level aim along the rib at seventy yards as it would be to fire a rifle at a mark at two hundred yards with the sight set for one hundred4 8,while everything has been done to increase the range of the fowling-piece1 nothing has been done to give the elevation necessary to take full advantage of the increase of power4 ,as long as the one-eye system of shooting is adopted1 the object1 if hit at all1 will be struck only by outside weak pellets1 and not by the effective central shot4 8,the proper way is to throw the gun well up and into the shoulder2 the setting off of the stock will then bring the gun right in front of the face2 and1 the head being erect1 and both eyes fixed intently on the object1 the line of motion is commanded1 and the aim taken instinctively4 ,the central pellets have thus an allowance given them to compensate for distance and the motion of the object4 ,you look along the imaginary line1 higher at the breech according to distance1 and at this elevation the gun is fired1 exactly as a rifle target-shooter sets his breech sights to a given distance4 8,how does a man drive a nail8 ,certainly not by closing one eye and looking along the hammer2 but with both eyes open1 he mechanically balances the hammer and strikes instinctively1 never1 if accustomed to the use of the tool1 missing his aim4 ,it is the same in shooting40 ,coming directly to the subject of employing binocular vision in taking aim to shoot1 ,mr4 ,dougall quotes from a paper in ,once-a-,week to the effect that monocular vision1 while much employed for this purpose1 cannot at all be depended upon4 ,to prove this position1 place upon a table an empty small-mouthed vial1 and taking another similar vial full of water in one hand1 shut an eye and approach the vial upon the table2 when apparently near enough1 stretch out your arm quickly and endeavor to pour the water from the full vial into the other1 still keeping the eye closed4 ,you will be very apt to find1 as the water comes down1 that it is missing the mouth of the empty vial on account of a miscalculation1 due to monocular vision4 ,now repeat the operation with both eyes open1 and if care is exercised success will be the invariable result4 ,a similar miscalculation will be shown to the person who endeavors to approach and snuff a candle with one eye shut4 ,mr4 ,dougall thinks there can be no reasonable question as to the advantages of learning to use the shot-gun with both eyes open4 ,this has been proven time and again by the most rigid tests4 ,it is even a settled fact that the nearer the eyes of an individual set together in the head the less he is likely to shoot well4 8,and yet10 says ,mr4 ,dougall1 8how strange it is to find sportsmen who would still further narrow this fine provision of nature into the diameter of one retina only4 ,throwing the fowling-piece into a line with the object of aim by an instinctive effort1 keeping both eyes firmly fixed on and following the flight of the object1 is the first great principle in shooting well40 ,gloan on ,taking ,aim4--,the clever author of a neat little book entitled 8,the ,breech-,loaders10 tells us that when the shot leave the gun the powder which propels the pellets has started them with sufficient force to keep them up for a short time against all natural resistances acting upon them1 but finally gravitation1 which is pulling upon them all the time1 begins to tell1 and carry them downward from the line upon which they set out4 8,the shot have a journey to perform after they leave the gun1 and before they reach the bird4 ,it may be a long journey or a short journey1 according to the distance of the bird2 but still it is a journey1 and it takes some time to do it in4 ,while the shot are traveling on their way1 the bird is flying on his way4 ,if the bird is flying across the shooter1 and the aim is at the bird1 naturally1 by the time the shot get to the point of aim1 the bird has gone on beyond it1 and is untouched by the shot4 ,and if the distance is great1 gravitation has affected the shot and pulled them down below the point of aim4 ,possibly1 too1 the wind is strong1 and has blown them a little to one side4 ,so that1 assuming that a sportsman aims steadily and exactly at a cross-flying bird1 sixty yards distant1 going a mile a minute1 the gun making a pattern good enough to kill1 what results8 8,when the shot arrive at their point of destination they are from eight to ten feet behind the point to which the bird has flown2 and they are from ten to twelve inches below the line upon which the bird was flying4 ,if the wind is high they are blown aside1 even on the lower line1 and the other pellets become harmless if they hit4 ,the bird escapes1 as a matter of surprise to the young sportsman1 who is confident that he #8covered it exactly4' 8,he did cover it1 literally1 and exactly1 and that was the cause of the miss4 ,if he had aimed the length of a fence rail ahead of the bird and half the length above it1 he would probably have brought it down4 ,as the shot was1 however1 the bird was sure to be lost4 8,an old shot will shine on range and allowance4 ,his eye will measure distance as though with a tape-line4 ,he will estimate velocity as with a registering instrument4 ,he makes his cheek an index of the wind1 and before his gun is at his shoulder he has decided with unfailing skill where the aim must be1 and there he plants the load4 ,if the bird does not fall it is the gun's fault1 not his4 8,by the binocular vision these difficulties1 which are so trying to the novice1 are the more readily overcome4 ,the eyes take in the flight of the bird1 and convey the rate of speed at which it flies4 ,the full distance of the whole perspective of the landscape is made palpable to the sense1 and the finger responds to the call1 which is made all the more quickly and all the more truly because of the certainty which the eyes impart40 ,,chapter ,,xxxviii4 ,,on ,,using ,,the ,,pistol4 ,natural ,talent4--,the number of persons who are really good shots with the pistol is smaller than one would be apt to suppose after considering how many weapons of this kind are in every-day use4 ,they are almost as common as pocket-knives1 and some of them are capable of shooting reasonably well at considerable length of range1 and yet not an average of one man in five hundred1 who owns a pistol1 could be found1 perhaps1 who could put fifty per cent4 of his bullets through a hat set up for a target ten paces away4 ,the fact is1 the pistol1 while capable enough1 if well made1 is the most difficult of all our fire-arms to manage1 so far as relates to good performances4 ,there are men who can take a good revolver and shoot a chicken's head off every time1 ten or fifteen paces1 but of such men there are not very many4 ,and none of them have ever communicated how they happened to become such fine shots with the pistol4 ,in some cases they had practiced a good deal1 but not more than had hundreds who were but comparatively poor performers4 ,to come squarely down to the point at once1 the peculiarity which made them good shots with the pistol was a 8born-gift10 as in the case of the best shots with the shot gun4 ,any man who practices with the pistol1 in accordance with the established rules governing its use for best results1 may soon become a fair shot1 but it calls for more than mere practice to make him an excellent shot4 ,taking ,aim4--,the best shots do not take aim by sighting along the barrel of the pistol1 holding it out at arm's length after the manner of the wooden figure standing in front of the city shooting-gallery4 ,they do not close one eye and turn sideways to the object of aim like the ideal duelist1 but they hold out the pistol1 look at the object 7not the pistol71 with both eyes open1 and blaze away1 usually putting the bullet about where they want it to go4 ,there is really no aim-taking in the case1 any more than there is in the case of a boy playing at marbles4 ,indeed1 shooting a pistol to the best advantage is very much on the same principle as shooting a marble4 ,the boy takes the marble properly between his thumb and first finger1 holds out his hand in the direction of the marble to be shot at1 but considerably below his line of vision1 looks at the object-marble with both eyes open and 8flips0 in obedience to the promptings of a kind of unconscious calculation as to distance1 force at command1 effect of gravitation1 and so on4 ,the marble 8flipped0 curves out on its way1 and1 if shot from the hand of a skillful player1 strikes its mark with astonishing certainty4 ,just so with the bullet sent from the pistol2 under the management of a skillful performer it goes in obedience to an unconscious calculation1 and not in obedience to the squinting of one eye along the barrel4 ,sight-taking won't do in either case2 the good marble player would be a hopeless failure if he held up his arm to his line of vision and took sight every time he went to 8shoot0--the pistol-shooter who performs upon the same plan is invariably a marksman of sterling uncertainty1 to say the least4 ,cane ,aiming4--,some people are so deficient in the species of calculation necessary to successful pistol-shooting1 on the plan suggested in the foregoing1 that they cannot do much at it4 ,such as these have some excuse for taking sight1 but holding the pistol out at arm's length and sighting along the barrel or through its 8sights0 rarely gives them more than very little certainty4 ,the best method of actually taking sight with a pistol is performed in connection with a rod some three feet long--usually with a walking cane4 ,grasp the grip of the pistol in the right hand1 in the usual way1 and take the cane in the left hand4 ,bring the handle of the cane up against the shoulder like the breech of a gun1 pass the pistol down along the side of it till the barrel reaches the left hand1 and both hands are in easy position4 ,hold the cane between the thumb and first finger of the left hand1 letting them pass beyond it and grip the barrel of the pistol between the end of the thumb and the turned-up end of the finger4 ,let the thumb and first finger of the right hand also grip the cane beyond the 8grip0 of the pistol4 ,the aim of the pistol should range a little to the right of the direction pointed by the cane1 which it will very naturally do4 ,this plan steadies the pistol and affords as fine an opportunity of taking perfect sight as one could have with a rifle4 ,a little practice with it1 to enable one to arrive at a certain conclusion as to the rise or fall of the bullet1 will soon pave the way for pretty fair shooting4 ,a kind of clasp with which to fasten the pistol to the cane is now on the market1 and may be made to work very well1 though some would always prefer holding the pistol with the hands1 in the manner just described4 ,the ,best ,pistols to ,use4--,it is not advisable to say a recommendatory word about any particular make--how could it be done1 under the above heading1 when there are twenty or thirty really good pistols now before the public under the brand of the same number of different manufacturers8 ,the best pistol for any person to use is any good pistol that this person happens to like1 and no other kind4 ,all pistols do not shoot alike1 and1 hence1 when any one has practiced with a certain kind until accustomed to its peculiarities they had better stick to it1 as a change would be apt to throw at least some derangement in the shooting calculations1 putting them under the necessity of a repeated practice4 ,all the best shots invariably stick to some particular make of pistol1 and usually to some particular size4 ,in making choice of a size it is best to be governed by the character of work the pistol is desired to perform4 ,the large pistols shoot stronger1 and1 as a general rule1 with greater accuracy than the small ones2 still1 comparatively small pistols are sometimes known to shoot reasonably well4 ,they are intended only for short range however1 and hence must not be depended upon when a good performance of long-range pistol shooting is desired4 ,the large pistol has many advantages over the small one1 while the latter can claim but two over the former4 ,these two consist in its lightness1 fitting it to figure as a pocket pistol1 and in the lesser cost of its ammunition4 ,,chapter ,,xxxix4 ,,vocabulary ,,of ,,mechanical ,,terms ,,used ,,by ,,gun-,,makers4 ,action4--,the iron bed attached to the stock of a breech-loading gun1 into the recess of which the lump descends and is secured4 ,the term is used generally as 8side action10 8snap action10 etc4 ,the word is also used to indicate the different form of gun locks1 as back-action1 bar-action1 front-action1 etc4 ,anneal4--,to render more soft1 as in the case of iron and other metals4 ,auxiliary ,rifle4--,a rifle-barrel some twenty inches in length1 and so arranged that1 like a cartridge1 it may be slipped within the barrel of a breech loading shot-gun1 thus at once converting the shot-gun into a rifle4 ,the rifle-barrel1 charged with its cartridge1 may be placed in the shot-gun in a moment and at pleasure4 ,back-action ,lock4--,a lock that is located entirely back of the barrel1 being bedded in the stock alone4 ,bar-action ,lock4--,when the lock is bedded partly back of the barrel and partly along side of it4 ,barrel4--,the iron or steel tube of the gun through which the charge passes in the act of firing4 ,barrel-loop4--,a metallic loop under the barrel1 through which a small bolt passes to hold the barrel into the stock4 ,bents4--,the notches in the tumbler of a gun-lock4 ,black-,walnut4--,a tree1 native to ,north ,america1 whose wood is extensively used in the manufacture of fine gun stocks2 the ,juglans nigra of botanists4 ,binocular ,vision4--,seeing with two eyes4 ,bolt4--,the part which1 in a breech-loader1 passes into the lump of the barrel and holds it into the action when the gun is closed4 ,bore4--,the interior of the barrel along which the charge passes4 ,bores are made of the following forms3 ,true cylinders2 cylinders enlarged at the breech2 cylinders enlarged or freed at the muzzle2 tapered to narrow at the muzzle2 narrowed to close at the muzzle2 cylindrical1 with ring cut out near muzzle2 narrowing the muzzle with depth cut out1 modified1 etc4 ,bores are also made elliptical1 hexagonal1 polygonal1 etc4 ,brazing4--,soldering iron with brass or copper as a solder4 ,breech4--,in earlier days all that portion of the gun back of the lock was considered the breech1 but now a gun is regarded as having two breeches3 the breech of the barrel1 the place where the cartridge is inserted1 as in the case of the breech-loaders1 and the breech of the stock1 being that part which comes against the shoulder4 ,breech-bolt4--,a small iron bar used in some make of guns to assist in holding the barrel secure to the action4 ,bridle4--,that piece in the lock connected with the tumbler as a kind of cap4 ,browning4--,a rust produced on the surface of gun-barrels by means of acids4 ,bump4--,the corner of the stock at the top of the heel-plate4 ,burnisher4--,a piece of smooth and hardened steel used in polishing the surface of metals4 ,calibre4--,the diametrical measurement of the bore of a gun barrel4 ,breech loaders are made of #aj1 #ab1 #ad1 #af and #bj calibre4 ,muzzle loader of every variety of measurement4 ,cap4--,the metal covering placed on the end of a pistol handle4 ,also the small cup-like contrivance put on the nipple upon which the hammer strikes to fire the gun4 ,carbine4--,a short form of rifle2 so made to be easily carried by persons who used them mounted on horses4 ,cartridges4--,the ammunition for a gun1 contained in metal or paper cases4 ,they are sized to regular numbers1 as gauge #aj or #ab1 etc41 and are of two kinds1 central-fire and rim-fire4 ,case-hardening4--,a hardened1 steel-like exterior given to iron by heating it in connection with animal charcoal1 and then plunging while hot in cold water4 ,central-fire4--,setting off the cartridge by striking it in the centre1 where the fulminate is placed4 ,chamber4--,the enlarged space in the breech of the barrel wherein the cartridge is placed1 or where the charge rests in the case of a muzzle-loader4 ,the bores intended to receive the charge in the cylinder of a revolver4 ,in loading a gun with coarse shot1 if they rest in the barrel side by side in regular layers or strata1 we say they chamber2 but if they are a little too large for this1 so that some of the shots must lie above the common level for want of space between other shots and the side of the bore to admit of their going down1 we say the gun will not chamber shot of that particular size4 ,a gun is not supposed to shoot shot to perfection which she cannot chamber4 ,charger4--,a small measure employed for measuring powder in loading a gun or cartridge-shell4 ,chequer-work4--,the chequered carving as made on the stock of a gun4 ,cherry-mould4--,a small spherical cutting-tool1 used for enlarging the interior of bullet moulds4 ,it may be bought of houses dealing in gunsmith's materials1 or it may be made by dressing a piece of soft steel down to proper shape1 cutting file-teeth upon it and then hardening in the usual way4 ,to use the cherry1 close the mould upon it and then turn it round and round until the interior of the mould is cut out to the required size and shape4 ,cherry ,tree4--,a ,north ,american tree1 growing to about medium size and furnishing a hard1 reddish and most beautiful wood1 highly prized for fine gun stocks4 ,it is now getting to be quite scarce4 ,botanical name1 ,cerasus serotina4 ,choke-bore4--,a gun-bore slightly larger at the breech than at the muzzle4 ,choke-dressing4--,dressing out the bore of a gun so as to make it slightly larger at the breech than at the muzzle4 ,clamp1 ,mainspring4--,a mainspring clamp is a kind of vise used by gunsmiths for clamping the mainspring preparatory to taking it from the lock4 ,cock4--,in flint-lock guns1 that part of the lock which holds the flint4 ,the name is also often applied to the hammer of percussion and other locks of more modern make4 ,when the hammer has been pulled back to its last catch1 we say the gun is cocked1 or at full-cock2 when pulled back to the catch next preceding the last1 we say the gun is half-cocked1 or at half-cock4 ,comb4--,that portion of the stock upon which the cheek rests at the time of firing4 ,cone4--,see ,nipple4 ,countersink4--,the recess in the chamber in which the rim of the cartridge fits4 ,cross-,fire4--,we say a rifle 8crosses fire0 when it plays the balls on the same level without varying upward or downward4 ,curled ,maple4--,this is not a species of growth1 but an unexplained condition to be met with in the wood of the maple1 most commonly in that of the sugar or hard maple 7the ,acer saccharinum of botanists71 though occasionally in ,acer rubrum1 or red maple4 ,the grain of the wood lies in regular waves1 presenting a most beautiful appearance when nicely dressed up4 ,it is very popular for fine gun stocks4 ,cylinder4--,that part of a revolver in which the charges are placed4 ,in the older make of percussion lock guns a short plug screwed into the side of the barrel at the breech1 in which was placed the cap-tube or nipple1 and through which the fire from the cap was communicated to the charge4 ,damascus4--,the variegated appearance on gun barrels1 produced by welding together metals dissimilar1 as steel and iron1 and then1 while heated1 twisting these metals into various tortuous forms and re-welding4 ,the colors of the dissimilar metals are brought out by browning mixtures4 ,direct ,fire4--,that arrangement in a breech-loader by which the plunger lies and strikes the ignition horizontally4 ,dog4--,that part of the gun-lock acted upon by the trigger to release the tightened mainspring and set the hammer in motion4 ,earlier gunsmiths called it by this name1 but it is now usually called the sear4 ,double ,triggers4--,often called set-triggers4 ,a pair of triggers arranged to a rifle1 occasionally1 to admit of setting it off with but slight pressure4 ,the triggers are located one in advance of the other under the guard4 ,to operate pull upon the rear one until it 8clicks0 and is 8set10 after which cock the gun4 ,the slightest pressure upon the front trigger springs the 8set10 which acts suddenly upon the sear1 releasing the mainspring4 ,drop4--,distance measured from the top of the butt of a gun stock to a line drawn rear-ward from the top of the barrels1 usually from #b to #c inches4 ,elevated ,rib4--,the raised rib on top of and between the barrels of a shot gun4 ,escutcheons4--,pieces of metal1 through which the bolt to hold the barrel to the stock1 is passed4 ,extractor4--,an automatic working rod in central fire guns1 by which the empty cartridge is partly withdrawn from the chamber4 ,false ,breech4--,a piece of iron permanently screwed to the stock to fit squarely against the breech of the barrel4 ,in the modern muzzle-loader the barrel is secured against it by hooks4 ,it is also called a patent breech1 also a standing breech4 ,fastenings4--,mechanism for holding the barrel of breech-loaders securely to the frame or action when the barrel is in position for firing4 ,flash4--,in the days of the old flint-lock a gun was said to 8flash0 when the priming ignited in the pan but failed to fire the charge4 ,flux4--,a substance or mixture used to facilitate the melting of metals or minerals1 as glass1 borax1 and the like4 ,fore ,piece4--,that portion of the stock lying under the barrel1 forward of the lock1 called also fore-end and fore-arm4 ,fore ,sight4--,the sight located nearest the muzzle end of the barrel4 ,forge4--,a furnace with its accompaniments where iron or other metals are wrought by heating and hammering4 ,when a piece of metal is hammered into some required shape1 the operation is termed 8to forge it40 ,fowling ,piece4--,a smooth bored gun1 used for hunting small game1 shooting shot or small pellets4 ,freeing4--,slightly enlarging the bore of a gun at the muzzle4 ,frizzen4--,in the old flint-lock the steel plate that covers the pan and stood up in front of the flint1 against which the flint struck to produce fire to ignite the priming4 ,grip4--,a name usually applied to the round part of a gun stock just back of the locks4 ,it is also applied to the handle of a pistol4 ,guard4--,the piece of metal which curves around the triggers and protects them4 ,half ,stock4--,a gun stock that does not extend the full length of the barrel4 ,hammer4--,that part of the gun-lock that strikes the plunger or cap1 or other form of ignition4 ,see cock4 ,hammer-,gun4--,a gun whose lock works with a hammer4 ,hammerless ,gun4--,a gun whose arrangements for setting off the ignition are contained inside the breech mechanism1 and not visible when the arm is ready for use4 ,handle4--,see grip4 ,hazel ,nut4--,a small shrub growing abundantly in many portions of the ,united ,states4 ,the ,corylus of botanists1 divided into two species1 ,americana and ,rostrata4 ,head4--,in a gun stock1 the part where the breech end of the barrel rests against4 ,heel ,plate4--,the metal piece terminating the breech end of a gun stock4 ,hind ,sight4--,the sight upon the barrel1 nearest the breech4 ,hinge ,pin4--,a pin fixed in the action on which the barrel plays4 ,ignition4--,any chemical combination which can be caused to explode and fire the charge1 as in a cap or cartridge1 for instance4 ,kentucky ,rifle4--,a form of rifle1 once very popular with ,western hunters1 and now used to some extent4 ,it is muzzle loading1 and the great length of the barrel was one great peculiarity4 ,kick4--,when a gun rebounds at firing the term is used 8it kicks40 ,land ,space4--,the space in the bore of a rifle between the grooves4 ,lever4--,the bar or rod the working of which locks or unlocks the action of a breech-loader1 enabling the operator to open or close the gun4 ,as top-lever1 side-lever1 under-lever1 etc4 ,lock ,plate4--,the flat plate to the inside of which all the other parts of the gun-lock are secured4 ,loop4--,the projection under the barrel to which the fore end is fastened4 ,see barrel loop4 ,they are of two kinds1 wire and bolt loop4 ,long ,fire4--,when a noticeable space of time intervenes between the striking of the hammer and the explosion of the charge1 hence the term1 the gun has made 8long-fire40 ,lower ,rib4--,the rib underneath and between the barrels of a shot gun4 ,lump4--,the iron piece soldered to the barrel of a breech-loader1 which descends into the action and is there secured preparatory to firing4 ,magazine ,rifle4--,a rifle provided with an interior magazine for containing cartridges1 and so made that they are passed automatically into a chamber ready for firing4 ,mainspring4--,the large spring in the gun-lock which imparts action and power to the hammer4 ,monocular ,vision4--,seeing with only one eye4 ,when one eye is closed1 as some do in taking sight with a gun1 it is a case of monocular vision4 ,mould4--,an implement for moulding bullets4 ,the plural form is generally given to it1 as bullet moulds4 ,musket4--,a form of gun1 smooth bored and formerly used for military purposes4 ,when grooves are cut in the interior of the barrel1 it is called a rifle4 ,nipple4--,in a percussion-lock gun1 the tube upon which the cap is placed4 ,in the central-fire breech-loader1 the tube through the standing breech in which the striker or plunger works4 ,nipple ,wrench4--,an implement used for screwing the nipples into position or out4 ,it is often called a tube-wrench4 ,oblique ,fire4--,indicates that the plungers of a breech-loader lie and strike the ignition obliquely4 ,pan4--,a small pan-like outside on the flint-lock1 which holds the priming1 and in which the latter is ignited by a spark from the flint striking the frizzen4 ,patent ,breech4--,see false breech4 ,pepper ,box ,pistol4--,one form of revolver pistol1 in which the barrels are made full length from one piece of metal4 ,the rotation of the barrels and the action of the lock to fire the arm was produced by pulling the trigger4 ,picker4--,a small wire implement hung to the shot-pouch of the hunter in the days of the old flint-lock1 and used when occasion required for picking priming into the touch-hole of the gun4 ,pipes4--,short tubes attached to a barrel or to a rib attached to the barrel to receive the ramrod and hold it in place4 ,pistol4--,a small variety of fire-arm1 so made as to be easily carried in the pocket or a holster1 and readily manipulated and fired with one hand4 ,pistol ,grip4--,a gun stock whose grip inclines to turn down like the handle of a pistol1 is said to have a pistol grip4 ,play4--,a rifle which does not shoot with regularity is said to play its balls4 ,plungers4--,the pins which are struck by the hammers1 in breech-loaders1 and which in turn strike and explode the ignition4 ,powder ,bed4--,the chamber1 in a muzzle-loader1 where the powder lies when the gun is charged4 ,priming4--,the powder in the pan of a flint-lock gun4 ,proof ,marks4--,impressions of stamps made in gun barrels to indicate that they have been proved4 ,proving4--,firing gun barrels with very heavy charges of powder and balls to ascertain if they are of proper strength4 ,ramrod4--,a rod with which the tightly fitting portions of the charge are pushed home in loading a muzzle-loader4 ,rebounding ,lock4--,a lock which has the top of the mainspring and crank of the tumbler lengthened to such an extent that when the trigger is pulled the hammer delivers its blow and immediately rebounds to the half-cock4 ,rib4--,the metallic strip lying between and connecting the barrels of a shot-gun4 ,see lower rib and upper rib4 ,rifle4--,a gun having grooves cut parallel with each other along the interior of the barrel4 ,they usually take a more or less spiral course for the purpose of imparting to the bullet thrown a whirling or twisting motion on its flight through the air4 ,the grooves thus cut are sometimes called rifles4 ,rifle4--,a gun with grooves cut in a twisted or spiral-like manner on the interior of the barrel1 for the purpose of giving the projectile a rotary motion on its axis during its flight4 ,the design being to give greater accuracy to the course of the bullet4 ,rifle ,cane4--,a metallic walking staff1 which is virtually a rifle1 capable of shooting with much force4 ,the lock works internally1 and everything is so arranged as to pretty effectually conceal the true character of the arm1 it1 at a casual glance1 presenting only the appearance of a neat walking-stick4 ,rifle ,guide4--,an implement used by the gunsmith to guide the course of his rifle-saws in cutting grooves in the bore of a barrel4 ,rifle-,saws4--,short files made to fit in the grooves of a rifle4 ,they are usually attached to a rod1 near the end1 and drawn to and fro through the gun for the purpose of filing the grooves down to greater depth1 where such a thing is required4 ,in cases where new grooves are to be cut in a smooth-bore1 the rod passes through a rifle-guide1 which forces the saws to take the proper twist through the barrel4 ,rim-,fire4--,a cartridge whose ignition is around the rim instead of in the centre1 and which1 consequently1 can be used only by some arm striking the cartridge at the rim4 ,rouge4--,a fine powdery material1 used for putting a high polish upon the surface of well-finished metals4 ,it is usually applied by rubbing in connection with soft leather1 either in the form of a buff or otherwise4 ,saturated ,solution4--,a liquid holding in solution as much of some particular soluble chemical as it will dissolve4 ,for instance1 if salt be put in water until a portion remains undissolved at the bottom of the vessel1 there is in the liquid a saturated solution because it holds in suspension all the salt that it can dissolve4 ,scatter4--,when a shot gun throws the pellets over a range of space unusually wide1 it is said that it scatters4 ,scroll ,guard4--,an extension downward from the trigger guard1 to steady the hand4 ,it is designed to answer the same as pistol grip4 ,sear4--,sometimes called dog1 which see4 ,sear-,spring4--,the small spring in a gun-lock which presses the sear into the notches of the tumbler4 ,set-,triggers4--,see double-triggers4 ,side-,lever4--,a lever which works at the side of a breech-loader4 ,side-,screw4--,the long screw holding the lock to the stock4 ,slack-,tub4--,a vessel containing cold water1 to be used in suddenly cooling hot metals1 as in hardening steel1 for instance4 ,smooth ,bore4--,a gun for throwing single bullets1 made on the plan of a rifle1 but having no grooves in the bore4 ,it is sometimes called a 8smooth-bore rifle40 ,standing ,breech4--,see false breech4 ,steady-pin4--,the small projection on the mainspring which fits into the lock-plate4 ,strap4--,the metal strip in a breech-loader which runs from the breech-works down the stock1 in place of the tail1 or the old fashioned breech-pin4 ,strikers4--,see plungers4 ,sugar ,maple4--,a tree indigenous to the ,united ,states1 whose wood is extensively used in the manufacture of gun-stocks4 ,see curled maple4 ,swivel4--,the small piece in a lock connecting the tumbler and the mainspring4 ,tear4--,when a bullet makes a hole larger than its own diameter1 particularly in the flesh of an animal1 the gun from which it was shot is said to tear4 ,tenons4--,iron projections on the lump of a breech-loader1 to fit into corresponding spaces in the action4 ,thimbles4--,the metallic loops on the under side of a muzzle-loader1 made to hold the ramrod when not in use4 ,toe4--,the extremity of the breech which rests nearest the armpit when in the act of taking off-hand aim4 ,top ,lever4--,the lever of a breech-loader1 which works on the upper side of the gun1 just back of the hammers4 ,trigger4--,the small lever under the gun1 upon which is pressed with the finger to release the confined mainspring and allow the hammer to descend4 ,trigger-,plate4--,the iron plate in which the trigger works4 ,trigger ,spring4--,a small spring to keep the trigger pressed close to the sear4 ,tube4--,the modern gunmaker calls the gun-barrel a tube2 in old times the only tube known to the gunsmith was that projection upon which the percussion cap was exploded4 ,see nipple4 ,tube4--,see nipple4 ,tumbler4--,that part of the lock directly connected with the hammer1 and in which are the two set notches4 ,tumbler-,screw4--,the screw on the outside of the lock1 passing through the hammer and holding it securely in its connection with the tumbler4 ,upper ,rib4--,the rib above and between the barrels of a double-barrel shot-gun4 ,vent4--,a small hole in side of the gun breech communicating with the interior or powder chamber4 ,vise4--,an implement for clamping or holding4 ,white ,maple4--,the ,acer dasycarpum of botanists--a near relative of the sugar maple4 ,common in many parts of the ,united ,states4 ,called soft maple in some localities4 ,whole-,stock4--,a gun-stock extending the entire length of the barrel4 ,wiper4--,a long ramrod used only in wiping out and cleaning the bore of a muzzle loader4 ,also a small spiral implement made to screw on the end of a ramrod for the purpose of boring into and drawing a wad from a gun1 or for holding material for wiping4 ,sometimes called a wormer4 ,wormer4--,see wiper4 ,,chapter ,,xl4 ,,vocabulary ,,of ,,chemicals ,,and ,,substances ,,used ,,in ,,browning1 ,,varnishes1 ,c4 ,acid1 ,gallic4--,acid produced in yellowish colored crystals1 derived from nut-galls or oak-apples4 ,soluble in water and alcohol4 ,nut galls are an import ingredient in the manufacture of good black ink4 ,acid1 ,muriatic4--,called also ,hydrochloric ,acid and sometimes spirit of salt4 ,made by the action of sulphuric acid on common salt 7chloride of sodium74 ,mingled with half its volume of ,nitric ,acid it forms ,aqua ,regia4 ,acid1 ,nitric4--,sometimes called ,aqua ,fortis4 ,made by the decomposition of ,nitre1 or saltpetre by strong sulphuric acid4 ,acid1 ,sulphuric4--,called oil of vitriol1 made from sulphur and nitre or saltpetre4 ,acid1 ,hydrochloric4--,called ,muriatic ,acid1 which see4 ,alcohol4--,the product of the fermentation of sugar1 and is contained in all fermented liquors4 ,it is a colorless fluid1 boils at #agc ,f4 and burns without smoke4 ,the volatile oils and resins are dissolved by it1 as well as many acids and salts1 the caustic alkalies1 etc4 ,the resulting compounds of the acids upon alcohol are called ethers4 ,alkanet ,root4--,the root of a species of ,bugloss4 ,it affords a fine red color to alcohol and oils1 but a dirty red to water4 ,the spirituous tincture gives to white marble a beautiful deep stain4 ,annatto4--,also spelled ,anotta and ,anotto4 ,a red coloring substance obtained from the pulp of the seed-vessel of the plant ,bixa orellana4 ,it dissolves better and more readily in alcohol than in water4 ,antimony1 ,chloride of4--,called also ,butter of ,antimony and ,sesquichloride of ,antimony4 ,made by distilling the residue of the solution of sulphuret of antimony in strong hydrochloric acid1 or by distilling a mixture of corrosive sublimate and antimony4 ,it is highly corrosive4 ,in medicine1 used as a caustic4 ,antimony1 ,butter of4--,see ,antimony1 ,chloride of4 ,aqua ,fortis4--,called also ,nitric ,acid1 which see4 ,aqua ,regia4--,made by mixing one part nitric acid in two muriatic acid1 by measure2 keep the mixture in a bottle in a cool1 dark place4 ,asphaltum4--,native bitumen1 will dissolve in turpentine with gentle heat4 ,benzoin1 ,gum or ,gum ,benjamin4--,a gum extracted from the tree1 ,styrax benzoin1 which grows in the ,east ,indies4 ,it fuses at a gentle heat1 can be dissolved in alcohol and imperfectly dissolved in ether4 ,it is employed as a varnish for toilet and other articles1 which give out an agreeable smell when warmed by the heat of the hand4 ,blue ,vitriol4--,sulphate of copper4 ,a salt formed by sulphuric acid in combination with copper4 ,it is soluble in cold or warm water1 used much in dyeing and exciting galvanic batteries4 ,brimstone4--,see sulphur4 ,brimstone1 ,black4--,crude sulphur4 ,burnt ,umber4--,umber is a mineral of brown color from the ,island of ,cyprus4 ,two kinds are found in the market1 raw and burnt4 ,butter of ,antimony4--,see antimony1 chloride of4 ,camphor4--,a solid concrete substance1 ,laurus camphor or ,indian laurel tree1 which grows in the ,east ,indies1 ,china and ,japan4 ,soluble in alcohol1 ether1 oil and acetic acid4 ,chloride of ,antimony4--,see antimony1 chloride of4 ,chloride of ,mercury4--,called corrosive sublimate1 which see4 ,chloride of ,iron4--,see muriate of iron4 ,copal4--,the concrete juice of a tree growing in ,south ,america and the ,east ,indies4 ,strictly speaking1 it is not a gum or a resin1 but rather resembles amber4 ,it may be dissolved by digestion in linseed oil with heat little less than sufficient to boil the oil4 ,the solution1 diluted with oil of turpentine1 forms a transparent varnish4 ,it also dissolves in ether1 and the ethereous solutions may be mixed with alcohol4 ,copperas4--,sulphate of iron or green vitriol4 ,a salt made by the decomposition of iron or iron pyrites in oil of vitriol4 ,dissolved in water1 is the basis of black dyes1 and is used in making ink1 c4 ,copper1 ,sulphate of4--,called blue vitriol1 which see4 ,corrosive ,sublimate4--,chloride of mercury4 ,a salt prepared by the decomposition of sulphate of mercury by common salt4 ,it is a deadly poison4 ,it is soluble in alcohol1 ether1 in two or three parts of hot water and in about #ae parts cold water4 ,it melts and sublimes about #fjj4 ,the white of eggs is an antidote for the poison4 ,damar or ,dammar4--,a gum obtained from the agathis or dammar tree1 allied to the pine trees1 growing in the ,east ,indies4 ,it is soluble in alcohol and in oil of turpentine4 ,dragon's ,blood4--,the inspissated juice of various plants1 of a red color1 used for tinging varnishes1 tooth tincture1 staining marble1 c4 ,ether1 ,nitric4--,mode of distilling equal parts of strong nitric acid and alcohol with a few grains of urea4 ,it is liquid1 colorless1 of sweet taste1 and insoluble in water4 ,it boils at #ahe ,f4 ,the vapor explodes at moderate heat4 ,elemi4--,a resin obtained from plants grown in the ,east ,indies and ,south ,america4 ,in making lackers1 it is used to give toughness to the varnish4 ,fustic4--,the wood of a tree growing in the ,west ,indies4 ,used for dyeing yellow4 ,gallic ,acid4--,see ,acid1 gallic4 ,green ,copperas4--,sulphate of iron4 ,see ,copperas4 ,green ,vitriol4--,copperas1 which see ,hydrochloric ,acid4--,muriatic ,acid1 which see ,iron1 ,chloride of4--,see ,muriate of ,iron4 ,iron1 ,muriate of4--,see ,muriate of ,iron4 ,iron1 ,sulphate of4--,see ,sulphate of ,iron4 ,iron1 ,sesqui-,chloride of4--,perchloride of iron or permuriate of iron4 ,made by dissolving rust of iron in muriatic acid and then crystalizing4 ,it forms red crystals4 ,soluble in water1 alcohol and ether4 ,very corrosive4 ,logwood4--,the wood of a tree growing in ,central ,america4 ,the extract is used in dyeing black color4 ,madder4--,a plant of the genus ,rubia1 one species of which is used in dyeing red4 ,manganese1 ,sulphate of4--,a beautiful rose-colored salt1 used to give a fine brown dye4 ,mastic4--,a resin exuding from the mastic tree4 ,it is in yellowish-white1 semi-transparent tears4 ,used as an ingredient in varnishes4 ,mercury1 ,quicksilver4--,a metal fluid at ordinary temperatures4 ,congealable at about #dj below zero4 ,boils at #ffj and forms a colorless dense vapor4 ,it is used in barometers and thermometers1 and in alloy with tin in coating mirrors4 ,it unites with chloroform1 forming calomel and corrosive sublimate4 ,the only acids that act on it are sulphuric and nitric4 ,to unite with the latter it must be heated4 ,mercury1 ,chloride of4--,see ,chloride of ,mercury4 ,mercury1 ,horn4--,called ,chloride of ,mercury4 ,mercury1 ,muriate of4--,chloride of ,mercury4 ,muriate ,tincture of ,steel4--,see ,muriate of ,iron4 ,muriate of ,iron4--,called ,chloride of ,iron4 ,made by dissolving iron filings in muriatic acid and crystalizing by evaporation4 ,crystals of green color being the result4 ,nitrate of ,silver4--,made by dissolving silver in nitric acid and evaporating the solution in crystals4 ,will dissolve in warm water4 ,is used for indelible ink to mark clothing and in photography4 ,when fused and cast in small sticks is called lunar caustic4 ,nitric ,acid4--,see ,acid1 nitric4 ,nitric ,ether4--,see ,ether1 nitric4 ,oil of ,vitriol4--,see ,acid1 sulphuric4 ,pearlash4--,carbonate of potassa4 ,an alkali obtained from the ashes of trees by leaching4 ,when evaporated to dryness in iron kettles it is called potash1 but when calcined to burn off the coloring matter it is called pearlash4 ,potash4--,see ,pearlash4 ,sometimes called salts of tartar4 ,pumice ,stone4--,a substance resembling the slag from furnaces1 ejected from volcanoes4 ,the pulverized material is used to remove the gloss and imperfections on varnished surfaces by rubbing with a woolen cloth and water4 ,quicksilver4--,see ,mercury4 ,rotten ,stone4--,a soft stone used for fine grinding and polishing4 ,generally used after pumice stone1 and is applied with a soft woolen cloth and sweet oil4 ,salts of ,tartar4--,see ,potash4 ,sandarac4--,a resin that exudes from tree growing in ,africa4 ,fusible by heat and soluble in alcohol4 ,used in varnishes4 ,sesqui-,chloride of ,iron4--,see ,iron1 ,sesqui-chloride of4 ,shellac4--,lac is a resinous substance produced mainly from the banyan tree of the ,east ,indies4 ,it is the product of an insect4 ,stick lac is the resin in its natural state2 seed lac when broken up1 cleaned of impurities and washed2 shellac when it is melted and formed in thin flakes4 ,united with ivory-black or vermilion it makes sealing wax4 ,dissolved in alcohol it makes lackers and varnishes4 ,silver1 ,nitrate of4--,see nitrate of silver4 ,soda4--,common4 ,see potash4 ,spanish ,whiting4--,ground chalk carefully cleaned from all stony matter4 ,spirits of ,nitre4--,an alcoholic solution of nitrous ether4 ,steel1 ,tincture of4--,see muriate tincture of steel4 ,sulphate of ,iron4--,copperas or green vitriol4 ,see copperas4 ,sulphate of ,manganese4--,see manganese1 sulphate of4 ,sulphur4--,often called brimstone4 ,a mineral of yellowish color4 ,soluble in turpentine1 fat oils1 bisulphuret of carbon and hot liquor of potassa4 ,with oxygen it forms sulphuric and sulphurous acids1 and with the metals it combines as sulphurets or sulphides4 ,it is an essential ingredient in gunpowder1 and the gas arising from its combustion is employed in bleaching straw and woolen goods4 ,tartar1 ,salts of4--,see potash4 ,turpentine4--,an oleo-resinous substance as flowing from several species of pine1 larch and fir trees4 ,oil of turpentine is obtained by distilling the crude turpentine4 ,umber1 ,burnt4--,see ,burnt ,umber4 ,venice ,turpentine4--,a liquid resin which exudes from the larch tree4 ,the ,venice turpentine usually met with is turpentine to which is added a quantity of black melted resin4 ,verdigris4--,a green oxide of copper1 very poisonous4 ,the white of eggs is an antidote for the poison1 when taken into the stomach4 ,vitriol1 ,blue4--,called sulphate of copper4 ,see ,blue ,vitriol4 ,vitriol1 ,green4--,sulphate of iron4 ,see ,copperas4 ,vitriol1 ,oil of4--,see ,acid1 sulphuric4 ,whiting1 ,spanish4--,see ,spanish ,whiting4 ,,chapter ,,xli4 ,,calibres ,,of ,,guns1 ,,rifling1 ,,twist ,,of ,,rifling1 ,,etc4 ,european ,guns4--,the ,enfield ,rifle2 ,muzzle ,loader1 ,cal4 #egg2 #c grooves2 regular twist1 slightly deeper at breech than at the muzzle2 rifling one turn in #f feet #f inches4 ,the ,purdy ,rifle1 ,muzzle ,loader2 ,cal4 #fej2 #d grooves2 increasing twist1 commencing at one turn in #f feet and ending at one turn in #d feet #i inches4 ,the ,wilkinson ,rifle1 ,muzzle ,loader1 ,cal4 #ecj2 #e grooves with a regular twist of one turn in #f feet #f inches4 ,the ,lancaster ,rifle1 ,muzzle ,loader4 ,bore smooth and elliptical diameter at muzzle2 greater axis1 #eej2 lesser axis1 #edj2 greater axis at breech1 #eeg2 lesser axis1 #edc4 ,the twist is one quarter turn in whole length of barrel4 ,length of barrel1 #ci inches4 ,the ,snider ,rifle1 ,muzzle ,loader2 ,cal4 #egg2 #e grooves1 one turn in #d feet4 ,the ,whitworth ,rifle1 ,muzzle ,loader4 ,polygonal or hexagonal form of bore4 ,rifling1 one turn in #bj inches4 ,bore1 #efd across the flats4 #efh across center of flats4 ,the ,jacobs ,rifle1 ,muzzle ,loader2 #d grooves2 loads and grooves equal4 ,rifling four-fifths turn in #bd inches4 ,the ,turner ,rifle1 ,muzzle ,loader4 ,bore1 #efh4 ,rifling ,turner's ,patent1 one turn in #d feet4 ,the ,rigby ,rifle1 ,muzzle loader4 ,rifling #f grooves2 one turn in #d feet4 ,the ,boucher ,rifle1 ,muzzle ,loader4 ,bore hexagon with angles1 rounded off so as to form shallow grooves1 #fjh deep in center4 ,bore1 #egj4 ,rifling one turn in #c feet #c inches4 ,the ,prussian ,needle ,gun1 ,breech ,loader4 ,rifling #d grooves1 one turn in #dj inches4 ,the ,chassepot ,rifle1 ,breech ,loader2 ,cal4 #dcc2 rifling #d grooves1 turning from left to right1 one turn in #ba inches4 ,the ,snider ,enfield1 ,breech ,loader4 ,rifling #c grooves slightly deeper at breech than at the muzzle1 one turn in #gh inches4 ,diameter1 #egg4 ,depth of rifling at muzzle1 #je4 ,at breech1 4#ac4 ,width of grooves three-sixteenths inch4 ,westley ,richard's1 ,breech ,loader4 ,bore octagonal form4 ,rifling one turn in #bj inches4 ,regulation ,minie ,rifle1 ,muzzle ,loader4 ,rifling one turn in #f feet #f inches4 ,american ,guns4--,the ,peabody-,martini ,rifle1 ,breech ,loader4 ,rifling #g grooves1 one turn in #bb inches1 gain twist1 lands and grooves of equal width4 ,maynard ,rifle1 ,breech ,loader4 ,rifling #c grooves1 one turn in #e feet1 lands and grooves equal width2 depth1 4#ja4 ,sharp's ,rifle1 ,breech ,loader4 ,lands and grooves equal width4 ,rifling one turn in #bj inches4 ,bown ,sons' ,kentucky ,rifle1 ,muzzle ,loader4 ,standard number of grooves #g1 but made with #d1 #e1 #f1 and #g grooves1 same width as lands4 ,even twist one turn in #db inches4 ,gain twist commences at #i feet and ends at #f feet4 ,powel ,son's ,breech ,loading ,rifle1 #f and #g grooves1 one turn in #cf inches4 ,steven's ,rifle1 ,breech ,loader4 ,regular twist1 one turn in #bf inches4 ,springfield1 ,u4 ,s4 ,rifle1 ,breech ,loader1 ,cal4 #de4 ,rifling #c plain concentric grooves4 ,lands and grooves equal width4 ,uniform twist1 one turn in #bb inches1 depth 4#jje4 ,frank ,wesson's ,rifle1 ,breech ,loader4 ,long and mid-range guns using long slugs1 even twist1 one turn in #ah inches1 grooves #f1 lands and grooves equal width4 ,short range guns1 using slugs having short bearing1 increase twist commencing on #f feet1 and ending on #b feet1 #e and #f grooves1 lands and grooves of equal width4 ,wesson's ,muzzle ,loading ,rifle4 ,barrel #b #h long4 ,rifling one turn in #c #f #f grooves2 space between grooves equal to interior surface presenting a dovetail appearance4 ,groves not so wide as spaces4 ,the ,whitney ,arms ,co4's ,guns1 ,breech ,loading1 comprising the ,whitney1 ,kennedy1 and ,phnix systems4 ,rifling #f grooves1 one turn in #bb inches4 ,lands and grooves of equal width4 ,marston's ,rifle 7,toronto1 ,canada71 ,muzzle ,loader1 number of grooves #f1 lands and grooves equal width2 regular twist1 one turn in #cj inches2 depth of groove #ae-thousandths inch1 slightly freed at breech4 ,pistols4--,colt's ,army ,pistol1 ,breech ,loading ,revolver1 ,cal4 #de4 ,rifling #f grooves1 twist uniform1 one turn in #af inches2 depth 4#jje4 ,schofield1 ,smith ,wesson ,revolver for ,army ,use1 ,breech ,loader4 ,bore1 4#dce4 ,number of grooves #e1 uniform twist1 one turn in #bj inches4 ,depth of rifling 4#jjge4 ,,chapter ,,xlii4 ,,directions ,,for ,,taking ,,apart ,,and ,,assembling ,,rifles1 ,,double-,,barrelled ,,shot ,,guns ,,and ,,pistols1 ,,of ,,the ,,most ,,noted ,,makers ,,in ,,the ,,united ,,states4 ,the ,ballard ,rifle4--7,made by the ,marlin ,arms ,co41 ,new ,haven1 ,conn47 ,to ,take ,apart4--#a1 take the sight from the barrel2 #b1 take off the stock by unscrewing butt-plate2 and turning out the long tang screw2 #c1 drop the lever and take out lever screw2 take out the extractor then the block2 #d1 unscrew the barrel from the frame and take the tang from the frame2 #e1 take the screws from the lock and pry the plates apart4 ,to ,assemble4--,proceed in reverse order4 ,the ,burgess ,repeating ,rifle4--7,made by ,whitney ,arms ,co41 ,new ,haven1 ,conn47--#a1 receiver2 #b1 bottom tang2 #c1 lever2 #d1 breech-block2 #e1 top lever2 #f1 ejector2 #g1 carrier-block2 #h1 bottom plate2 #i1 bottom plate snap2 #aj1 hammer2 #aa mainspring2 #ab1 hammer-screw2 #ac1 side loading spring cover as seen from the back2 #ad1 trigger4 ,to ,take ,apart4--#ast1 take out the bottom plate screw1 and remove the plate2 #b;d1 take out the top cover screws and slide the cover back against the hammer1 having depressed the lever sufficiently to let it pass by1 then pull back the hammer as far as possible and take the cover out2 #c;d1 take out the carrier screws1 there being one on each side of the upper rear portion of the receiver1 and the stop screw on the upper front left hand side of the receiver1 then the lever1 breech-block1 extractor and earner can be taken out through the top4 ,to ,disengage the ,lever from the ,breech ,block4--,take out1 #ast1 the firing pin screw2 #b;d1 the firing pin2 #c;d1 the ejector from the side of the breech-block2 #dth1 the large pin from either side4 ,in assembling1 replace the pin in exactly the same position it was when taken out4 ,to ,assemble4--#ast1 place the lever1 breech-block1 extractor and carrier in their proper position1 relatively to one another1 as they were when taken out1 with the projection on the breech-block inside1 and under the front part of the carrier4 #b;d4 ,replace the above parts taken together in the receiver1 passing the handle of the lever first through the top1 put in the carrier side screws and the stop screw4 #c;d4 cock the hammer1 slide the top cover into place1 the breech being left half way open1 then put in the screw2 #dth1 close the breach and screw the bottom plate to place4 ,burnside's ,breech ,loading ,rifle4--,to clean the gun1 unlatch the guard and drop the chamber2 press down the small spring bolt at the guard joint with the finger nail1 while the lever of the joint-bolt is turned out of place and taken from the joint4 ,to detach the movable breech-pin from the chamber1 press it back with the thumb and forefinger of the left hand2 hold the bolt in this position with the thumb nail of the right hand inserted in the notch of the bolt1 while with the fore finger of the same hand1 the breech-pin is pushed into the chamber1 and the head or button of the spring-bolt is turned from its place1 when the breech-pin may be removed4 ,every part of the arm1 except the lock is now exposed to view4 ,put together in reverse order of taking apart4 ,the ,evans ,magazine ,rifle4--7,made by the ,evans ,magazine ,rifle ,co41 ,mechanics ,falls1 ,me42 ,merwin1 ,hulbert ,co41 agents1 ,new ,york ,city47--,to load the magazine1 introduce the cartridge through the opening in the butt plate4 ,each complete movement of the lever forward carries the cartridge to its chamber4 ,repeat the motion till the magazine is full4 ,to use as a single loader1 drop the lever to right angle with the barrel and insert the cartridge directly in the chamber4 ,the full motion of the lever forward discharges the empty shell1 the return places the loaded cartridge in position1 when the arm is ready for discharge4 ,semi-,hammerless4--,the ,american ,arms ,company are now producing a gun at a low price called the semi-hammerless single gun1 for which the manufacturers claim that it combines the advantages of a hammerless without the danger of the self-cocking principle4 ,to cock the gun press down the little lever on the side4 ,the lock-plate is easily removed to get at and oil the lock4 ,its construction is such that no water or dirt can penetrate to the lock4 ,the ,hotchkiss ,magazine ,gun4--7,made by ,winchester ,arms ,co41 ,new ,haven1 ,conn47--,to remove the magazine cut off1 turn the notched end to the front2 place the point of a screw-driver under the rear end and bear down gently1 slightly supporting the front end against the pressure with the fingers of the left hand4 ,to remove the breech-bolts press on the trigger and at the same time unlock the bolt and withdraw it4 ,n4 ,b4--,the bolt can be removed in the following manner3 unlock and draw back the bolt until the cocking piece just clears the receiver2 then1 letting go the handle1 take hold of the cocking piece and turn it down to the right until the projection on the bolt-head leaves the groove under the front end of the locking-tube4 ,the latter may then be drawn out at the rear1 and the head at the front of the receiver4 ,to return the bolt1 the head must be inserted from the front and the part from the rear1 unless the cut-off be removed4 ,to remove the magazine-spring and cartridge-follower1 insert the point of a screw-driver in the hole at the rear of the magazine tube1 and draw out the tube4 ,the barrel cannot be removed until the magazine has been taken out4 ,remove then the trigger spring screw and spring1 the cartridge stop pin and stop1 the trigger pin and trigger using a punch to drive out the pin4 ,remover the trigger catch pin and catch1 using the point of a screw-driver in the notched end of the pin to draw it out4 ,to dismount the breech-bolt1 remove the bolt-head1 which can be done by holding the cocking-piece firmly in the left hand1 and with the right turn down the handles as in the act of locking the bolt2 the head will then slip off4 ,turn out the firing-pin screw2 slip the bolt-head partly on the projecting end of the firing-pin1 and use it as a wrench to unscrew the pin2 the mainspring may then be removed4 ,remove the extractor by tapping gently on its projecting end with a piece of wood4 ,to assemble1 proceed in the reverse order4 ,howard's ,sporting ,rifle1 8,the ,thunderbolt40--,to clean the lock1 take out the screw that attaches the back end of the yoke to the breech piece2 unscrew the barrel2 then take the nut from the back end of the sliding breech-pin1 which with the mainspring and hammer1 constitute the lock4 ,in using1 if the operator does not wish to have the piece cocked1 he has only to hold the trigger back while closing the guard1 and it will not be cocked4 ,to cock it from this position1 he has only to open the guard a short distance1 and close it4 ,if he wishes to load and fire rapidly1 it will cock itself4 ,if in no haste1 or does not wish it cocked1 he has only to hold back the trigger1 while closing its guard4 ,the ,kennedy ,magazine ,gun4--7,made by ,whitney ,arms ,co41 ,new ,haven1 ,conn47--,directions for taking apart3 #a4 ,take out the two side screws1 on the left side of the receiver1 that are nearest together4 #b4 ,remove the bottom plate and carrier block through the bottom of the receiver4 #c4 ,full cock the hammer and take out the extractor screw from top cover1 then depress the lever sufficiently to let the cover pass over it1 pull back the hammer as far as possible and slide the cover out over it4 #d4 ,remove the breech-block and lever together through the top of the receiver4 ,to disengage the breech-block3 #a4 ,take out the firing-pin screw4 #b4 ,the firing pin4 #c4 ,the ejector from the side of the breech-block4 #d4 ,the large pin from either side4 ,to assemble1 put the parts together in reverse order from which they were taken out4 ,marlin's ,magazine ,rifle4--7,made by ,marlin ,arms ,co41 ,new ,haven1 ,conn47--,figure ,no4 #a shows the arm in a closed position4 ,a1 represents the ,lever2 ,b1 the ,bolt2 ,c1 ,extractor2 ,d1 the ,carrier ,block2 ,e1 the ,ejector2 ,f1 the ,carrier ,block ,spring2 ,g1 the ,hammer2 ,h1 the ,trigger2 ,i1 the ,firing ,pin4 ,to take the action apart3 #a4 ,take out the lever pin screw1 and drive out the lever pin1 allowing the lever to be removed4 #b4 ,take out the tang screw 7this allows the stock to be removed71 hammer screw1 and front pin that goes through trigger strap2 now remove the trigger strap with lock work attached4 #c4 ,the bolt can now be slipped out4 ,to assemble the action1 put the parts into the receiver in reverse order from that in which they were taken out4 ,maynard ,rifle1 ,self-,priming ,model4--7,made by ,mass4 ,arms ,co41 ,chicopee ,falls1 ,mass47--,to detach the barrel3 ,loosen the lever at its rear end and move it forward4 ,there is a button that keeps the magazine closed2 turn this button downward and forward as far as it will go2 then pull it out as far as it will come2 this will detach the lever from the breech-piece1 so that it will come partly out of it2 unhook the barrel1 and the lever will pass quite out of the breech-piece4 ,to attach the barrel reverse the operation4 ,to remove the nipple3 ,on the left side1 opposite the nipple1 is the screw which fastens it2 take out this screw2 put a stick of hard wood in the screw-hole2 strike the stick a little and the nipple will be driven out4 ,to dissect the rifle for a thorough cleaning3 ,there are four screws on the under side of the gun1 behind the hole where the lever is pivoted4 ,take out the two farthest back1 and the stock may then be drawn back so as to separate it from the breech-piece4 ,to adjust the joint between the end of the barrel and the breech-piece3 ,there are two screws visible on the under side of the breech-piece1 forward of the lever4 ,they are to adjust the joint to the thickness of the flange of the cartridge4 ,to do this3 ,first1 turn the screw nearest the lever once round to the left2 now raise the butt-end of the barrel1 put in a cartridge1 and observe as you bring the butt-end down again whether the joint is too close1 so as to pinch the flange1 or not close enough to hold it firmly4 ,the exact degree of tightness allows the lever to work easily1 but holds the barrel perfectly firm4 ,this degree will be found by turning the forward screw to the right or left4 ,having found this degree1 turn the rear screw to the right1 tightly1 and the joint is adjusted4 ,the ,peabody-,martini ,rifle4--7,made by ,providence ,tool ,co41 ,providence1 ,r4 ,i47--#a4 ,butt ,stock4 #i4 ,stock ,bolt4 #aj4 ,receiver1 or ,body4 #aa4 ,trigger ,spring4 #ab4 ,screw for ,locking ,bolt ,spring and ,trigger ,spring4 #ad4 ,stop ,nut4 #ae4 ,block ,axis ,pin4 #af4 ,striker1 or ,firing ,pin4 #ai4 ,block4 #be4 ,tumbler4 #bf4 ,indicator4 #bg4 ,block ,lever4 #bh4 ,extractor4 #bi4 ,tumbler ,rest4 #cj4 ,tumbler ,rest ,axis ,screw4 #ca4 ,extractor ,axis ,screw4 #cb4 ,guard4 #cc4 ,trigger4 #cd4 ,trigger ,axis ,screw4 #ce4 ,swivel4 #cf4 ,swivel ,axis ,screw4 #df4 ,barrel4 #dg4 ,fore1 or ,tip-,stock4 #dh4 ,cleaning ,rod4 ,to dismount body or receiver3 ,turn keeper-screw so the groove in head will allow block axis pin to drop out2 open the breech1 and with the thumb press with force oil front end of block1 and1 at the same time1 raise the lever2 turn the keeper-screw so as to allow the tumbler axis to be pushed out4 ,this also relieves the tumbler4 ,take out extractor axis screw4 ,to assemble body3 ,put lever back to its place in assembled guard and insert both in the body4 ,drop in extractor and turn in extractor axis screw4 ,put tumbler in place and put in tumbler axis1 point upright and secure keeper screw4 ,with the right hand raise the lever so as to touch the lever catch1 then1 with the first finger1 pull the trigger back1 and with the thumb push the trigger axis forward1 and drop in the assembled block1 the front end entering first4 ,apply a little force to back end of block with the left hand1 moving the lever a little at the same time with the right hand1 and the block will drop into place4 ,insert block axis pin and secure it with the keeper screw4 ,to dismount guard3 ,take out tumbler rest axis screw1 relieving tumbler rest4 ,take out trigger spring screw1 relieving trigger spring and locking bolt spring4 ,take out trigger axis screw1 relieving trigger4 ,take out locking bolt screw1 if found necessary4 ,to assemble guard3 ,hold trigger in place and turn in trigger axis screw4 ,restore locking bolt and thumb piece to place and turn in screw4 ,restore locking bolt spring and trigger spring and turn in trigger spring screw4 ,insert tumbler rest and turn in tumbler rest axis screw4 ,the parts are now ready to be attached to the body1 or receiver4 ,to dismount block3 ,turn keeper screw on end of block and take out stop nut4 ,the firing pin and coil spring will then drop out4 ,to assemble block3 ,restore firing pin and coil spring4 ,turn in stop nut1 and turn keeper screw to secure it4 ,the firing pin has a rectangular slot near one end4 ,this slot is longer on one side than on the other4 ,the long side should be so placed as to admit end of the tumbler freely4 ,the ,phnix ,breech-,loader4--7,made by ,whitney ,arms ,co41 ,new ,haven1 ,conn47--,no special directions are necessary for dismounting and assembling the ,phnix system4 ,the breech-block is taken out by loosening the screw that holds the pin1 and then taking out the pin4 ,after the breech-block has been removed let the hammer down as far as it will go1 which relieves it from the pressure of the main spring1 and it can then be easily removed by taking out the screw which holds it4 ,the ,remington ,breech-,loading ,rifle4--7,made by ,e4 ,remington ,sons1 ,ilion1 ,n4 ,y47--,explanation of parts and technical names3 ,,aa4 ,receiver4 ,b4 ,breech ,piece4 ,c4 ,hammer4 ,d4 ,locking ,lever4 a4 ,main ,spring4 bb4 ,pins4 c4 ,trigger4 d4 ,lever ,spring4 e4 ,trigger ,spring4 f4 ,firing ,pin4 g4 ,extractor4 ,to remove the breech piece and hammer3 ,loosen the button screw until the button can be removed from the heads of the breech and hammer pins4 ,cock the hammer1 push out the breech pin1 take out the breech piece1 let down the hammer as far as it will go 7which leaves the main spring resting upon a stationary pin1 and obviates the necessity of using a main spring vise in readjusting the parts74 ,remove the hammer pin and take out the hammer4 ,to replace the hammer and breech piece3 ,lay the arm down on the right side1 press upon the trigger at the same time replacing the hammer with the thumb piece forward and downward1 until the hole in the hammer and receiver correspond4 ,replace the hammer pin1 cock the hammer1 replace the breech piece1 insert breech pin in receiver1 and by pressing on the pin at the same time pressing down the breech piece and working it back and forth slightly the pin will enter4 ,adjust the button and tighten the button screw4 ,to take the entire arm apart3 ,take out the extractor screw1 open the breech1 remove the extractor1 take out the breech piece and hammer1 as described4 ,in military arms remove the wiping rod by unscrewing the same1 remove the bands1 separate the tip stock from the barrel at the muzzle1 until it is liberated from the stud upon the under side of the barrel1 when it maybe withdrawn from the receiver2 take out the tang screw and remove the butt stock4 ,to detach the guard strap3 ,take out the two side screws which pass through the guard strap1 always removing the rear screw first4 ,unscrew the barrel from the receiver1 taking care that the extractor has been removed before unscrewing the barrel4 ,to assemble the arm3 ,screw the barrel into the receiver1 until the mark on the top of the barrel and receiver correspond4 ,replace the extractor and screw1 place the forward end of the guard strap in the receiver1 putting in the screw4 ,see that the main spring is in the center of the guard strap1 press the rear end in until the screw will enter4 ,replace the hammer and breech piece1 as previously described4 ,replace butt stock and tip4 ,in putting on the bands of military guns1 see that the letters upon them are upon the same side with the band springs4 ,replace the wiping rod by screwing it in4 ,the locking lever1 attached to the guard strap1 serves a double purpose3 one end locking the sear1 or trigger1 when the breech is open to receive the cartridge1 which effectually prevents accidental discharge1 the other end working in a groove on the under side of the breech piece1 serving to close the breech piece and keep it closed in the act of firing4 ,the ,remington ,magazine ,gun2 ,keene's patent4--7,made by ,e4 ,remington ,sons1 ,ilion1 ,n4 ,y47--,to remove the breech1 turn the large screw at the right hand side of the stock below the hammer to the right until the carrier 7which should be in its lower position at the time7 drops free of the bolt and allows it to be withdrawn4 ,n4 ,b4 ,the screw referred to is cut with a left hand thread4 ,to separate the rear end of the bolt and firing pin from the front end1 bend back the hammer and twist it around to the right until the shoulder on front end of rear cap slides back in the groove in breech bolt4 ,to reassemble it reverse the operation described4 ,to take out the extractor1 press back the extractor bolt1 using the hooked end of the screw-driver for this purpose1 thus releasing the rear end of the extractor1 which may then be lifted out of its seat4 ,care should be taken not to let the extractor be thrown out by the spring when released4 ,to remove the stock1 take off the bands2 take out the screw at the end of the metal tip1 and remove the tip-stock by slipping it forward over the magazine tube4 ,unscrew the magazine tube1 take out the tang screw1 remove the guard bow1 and take off the butt stock4 ,the barrel should never be unscrewed except with proper appliances to avoid injuring the receiver4 ,to assemble the parts1 reverse the operations described1 taking care in screwing in the magazine tube that the follower does not catch against the cut-off and interfere with replacing the tube4 ,remington ,no4 #c ,rifle4--7,hepburn's ,patent1 made by ,e4 ,remington and ,sons1 ,ilion1 ,n4 ,y47--,remove the upper screw on the left hand side1 and the breech block may be taken out4 ,to take out the hammer1 remove the upper screw and slip the hammer forward into the breech block hole4 ,to take out the extractor1 remove the forward screw on left hand side4 ,the lever which operates the breech block passes through the rocker sleeve with a square stud and is held in place by a set screw directly under the fore stock1 which must be removed if it is ever desired to take off the lever4 ,if necessary to remove the guard it can be done by taking off the butt stock and taking out the side screws in the usual way4 ,the barrel should not be unscrewed from the frame except with proper appliances4 ,when necessary to unscrew the frame1 the extractor should be taken out and the breech block and guard put back in place1 before putting on the wrench4 ,sharp's ,rifle1 7old model using paper or linen cartridge1 also model of #ahgd using metallic cartridge2 made by ,sharp's ,rifle ,co41 ,bridgeport1 ,conn47--,to take the arm apart3 ,relieve the lever key from pressure of spring by throwing down the lever guard1 the key can then be taken out and the slide with lever guard attached1 removed4 ,to replace1 put slide in place1 leaving guard down1 then insert lever key1 turning the key to place4 ,to take off the lock1 give four or five turns to the side screws2 tap their heads gently with the handle of the screw-driver to start the lock from its bed1 the side screws can then be taken out and the lock removed4 ,to replace the lock1 press it firmly into its bed1 before entering the screws and then turn them up close4 ,sharp's ,rifle1 7,borchardt's ,patent model of #ahgh2 made by ,sharp's ,rifle ,co41 ,bridgeport1 ,conn47--,plate #c--;,,aaa1 receiver2 ,,bb1 slide2 ,,cc1 sear2 ,d1 firing bolt2 ,e1 cam2 ,f1 extractor2 ,g1 connection2 ,h1 trigger2 ,k1 safety catch2 ,l1 safety lever2 ,,mm1 lever2 ,,nn1 mainspring2 ,o1 lever spring2 ,p1 barrel stud2 ,r1 ramrod stop1 military2 ,s1 ramrod1 military2 ,t1 swivel1 military2 ,,uu1 barrel2 ,w1 forearm2 ,w1 link2 ,x1 butt-stock bolt2 #a1 lever pin2 #b1 lever screw4 ,to take the arm apart3 ,loosen the rear screw under the barrel1 and this will relieve the pressure of the lever spring4 ,cock the gun by opening and closing4 ,bring down the guard lever half way4 ,take out the lever pin on which the lever rotates4 ,this pin is held in place by a small screw directly above it4 ,turn this screw to the left until the circular cut in its side is on a line with the lever pin1 and the latter can then be removed4 ,pull lever out of the joint4 ,replace lever pin so as to hold extractor in place4 ,remove screw which connects lever and link1 through hole in left side of link4 ,take out lever4 ,push slide up and out1 and then take out extractor4 ,to strip the slide1 uncock it and push out sear pin and remove sear4 ,take out pin at rear end of slide4 ,take out slide plug and mainspring4 ,drive cross pin out of firing bolt and remove same4 ,remove link by taking last screw out of slide4 ,to remove trigger1 safety and safety lever1 drive out trigger pin and safety pin above it4 ,pull back safety catch and pull out trigger4 ,push forward safety catch as far as it will go1 and it will drop out1 together with the safety lever above it4 ,to assemble1 replace safety catch1 safety lever and trigger4 ,assemble slide and cock it4 ,push safety catch into notch of trigger4 ,put in extractor and lever pin4 ,insert slide and push it down1 keeping extractor close to its place1 in base of barrel4 ,attach lever4 ,take out lever pin1 bring lever into the joint1 replace the pin1 and secure it by giving small screw above it half a turn to the right4 ,tighten the screw which was loosened under the barrel4 ,never use a hammer or other force either in taking apart or assembling this system4 ,if the parts are in proper position1 everything will go into place easily4 ,the ,u4 ,s4 ,muzzle ,loading ,rifle and ,musket4--,to take apart3 ,draw the ramrod2 turn out the tang screw2 put the hammer at half cock2 partially unscrew the side screw1 and with a light tap on the head of each screw with the handle of the screw-driver or a light wood mallet1 loosen the lock from its bed in the stock1 then turn out the side screws and remove the lock with the left hand4 ,remove the side screws and take off the bands4 ,take out the barrel by turning the gun horizontally1 barrel downward1 holding the barrel loosely with the left hand below the rear sight1 the right hand grasping the stock by the small2 if it does not leave the stock1 tap the muzzle on the top side against the work bench which will effect loosening it at the breech4 ,to assemble1 put together in the inverse order of taking apart4 ,squeeze the barrel in place with the hand2 give the butt of the stock a gentle tap on the floor to settle the breech end of the barrel against the head of the stock4 ,springfield ,breech ,loading ,rifle 7made at ,springfield1 ,mass4 by ,u4 ,s4 ,government2 adopted by ,u4 ,s4 ,government47--,a1 ,bottom of ,receiver2 ,b1 ,barrel2 ,c1 ,breech ,screw2 ,e1 ,hinge ,pin2 ,f1 ,cam ,lock2 ,g1 ,cam ,latch ,spring2 ,h1 ,firing ,pin2 ,i1 ,firing ,pin ,spring2 ,j1 ,extractor2 ,k1 ,ejector ,spring and ,spindle2 ,l1 ejector ,stud2 ,m1 ,lug of ,extractor4 ,to dismount the breech loading parts3 #a4 ,remove the hinge pin by pressing on its point with a small-sized punch until the end carrying the arm projects sufficiently to enable it to be grasped and removed by the fingers4 #b4 ,remove the breech block carefully1 so as not to allow the extractor and ejector spring to fall out4 #c4 ,remove the extractor and ejector spring4 #d4 ,remove the cam latch by unscrewing the breech block cap screw1 and loosen the cap with the point of a screw-driver4 #e4 ,remove the cam latch spring4 #f4 ,turn out the firing pin screw1 then take out the firing pin and spring from the breech block4 ,to assemble3 #a4 ,insert the firing pin screw in the breech block1 then the firing pin1 and then replace the firing pin screw4 #b4 ,insert the cam latch spring in its place4 #c4 ,replace the cam latch and the breech block cap2 turn the cap screw well down4 #d4 ,insert the ejector spring in its place4 #e4 ,replace the extractor in such a position in the breech block that the small recess in the back of the extractor will be in a position to be presented to the point of the ejector spring spindle4 #f4 ,insert the breech block4 ,after seeing that the point of the spindle has entered the recess in the back of the extractor1 strike the breech block over the thumb piece and head of the firing pin1 a smart blow with the palm of the hand1 forwards and downwards1 this will cause it to enter sufficiently to hold it in place4 ,then press it into position by grasping the block and receiver with the fingers and thumb1 the thumb uppermost1 and squeeze it home4 #g4 ,insert the hinge pin by striking it a sharp blow with the palm of the hand4 ,see that the stud in the arm enters the recess cut for it on the side of the receiver4 ,should the thumb piece interfere with the head of the hammer in raising the breech block1 it is probable that either the tumbler or sear screw is too loose or broken4 ,whitney ,breech ,loading ,gun 7made by ,whitney ,arms ,company1 ,new ,haven1 ,conn47--,to take apart3 #a4 ,give the screw in the side of the frame or receiver 7that holds the two fulcrum pins7 a few turns to release the flanges or heads of the two pins1 then turn them away from the screw a little4 #b4 ,place the hammer on the half-cock1 open the breech half way1 and press the locking shoulder back with the screw-driver until it is held by the catch on the locking lever made for the purpose4 #c4 ,knock out the pin that holds the breech block1 and take out the breech block1 lever and cartridge extractor at the same time4 #d4 ,bring the hammer to full-cock1 so as to release the locking shoulder1 and then uncock it1 pressing it forward so as to relieve the tension of the springs2 knock out the large pin1 and take out the hammer and locking shoulder together4 ,to assemble3 #a4 ,draw back the trigger to its usual place and insert the hammer and locking shoulder 7placed together1 as when taken out7 into the receiver1 pressing them forward so as to relieve them from the tension of their springs2 then insert the hammer pin1 half-cock the hammer1 and press back the locking shoulder until it is held by the catch on the locking lever4 #b4 ,insert the lever1 breech block and cartridge extractor placed together1 put in the fulcrum pin1 turn the heads or flanges of the two pins to their places against the binding screw1 and turn it up to its place4 #c4 ,open the breech in the usual way1 or simply bring the hammer to full cock1 when the locking shoulder will be released and the piece ready to operate4 ,the ramrod is held in place by being screwed into the steel on the lower side of the barrel4 ,whitney ,new ,system ,breech ,loading ,gun 7made by ,whitney ,arms ,company1 ,new ,haven1 ,conn47--#a1 ,receiver or ,frame2 #b1 ,bottom ,tang2 #c1 ,barrel2 #d1 ,breech ,block2 #e1 ,hammer2 #f1 ,breech ,block ,fulcrum ,pin2 #g1 ,hammer ,fulcrum ,pin2 #h1 ,extractor2 #i1 ,mainspring2 #aj1 ,trigger2 #aa1 ,stud4 ,to take apart the lock work3 #a4 ,give the screw in the side of the frame or receiver 7that holds the two large fulcrum pins7 a few turns to release the flanges or heads of the two pins1 then turn them away from the screw a little4 #b4 ,place the hammer on the full cock1 open the breech half way1 knock out the pin that holds the breech block and the extractor screw in the side of the receiver1 then take out the breech block and cartridge extractor at the same time4 #c4 ,uncock the hammer1 pressing it forward so as to relieve the tension of the spring2 knock out the large pin and take out the hammer4 ,to assemble the lock work3 #a4 ,draw back the trigger to its usual place1 and insert the hammer into the receiver1 pressing it forward so as to relieve it from the tension of the spring2 then insert the hammer pin and cock the hammer4 #b4 ,insert the breech block and cartridge extractor1 placed together1 put in the fulcrum pin1 turn the heads or flanges of the two pins to their places against the binding screw1 and turn it up to its place2 then put in the extractor screw4 ,winchester ,magazine ,gun4--7,made by ,winchester ,arms ,co41 ,new ,haven1 ,conn47--,to take apart3 ,to take out the barrel3 ,take out the two tip screws1 the magazine ring pin1 pull out the magazine tube1 and take off the forearm2 then1 before unscrewing the barrel from the frame1 the breech pin must be thrown back by moving the finger-lever forward1 otherwise the attempt to unscrew it will break the spring catch that withdraws the cartridge1 and ruin the breech-pin4 ,to remove the breech pin model of #ahff3 ,after removing the side plates and links1 the spring-catch must be next taken out1 which is done by moving the breech-pin back so that the pin that holds the spring catch will be in a line with a corresponding hole through the frame2 then with a small steel wire punch out the pin1 then move the breech-pin forward and take out the spring catch2 the piston can then be unscrewed with pliers or hand vise1 first setting the hammer at full cock1 or taking it out4 ,in models of #ahgc and #ahgf3 ,after removing the side plates and links1 take out the link pin and retractor2 the piston can then be pulled out with the fingers1 first removing the hammer or setting it at full cock4 ,should the main spring require strengthening it can be done by turning up the strain-screw1 which will be found directly under it1 on the under side of the frame4 ,remington's ,rifle ,cane4--7,made by ,e4 ,remington ,sons ,ilion1 ,n4 ,y47--,directions for using3 ,to load1 unscrew the handle or breech from the body of the cane2 insert the cartridge and replace the handle1 drawing back the handle will cock the piece ready for firing1 when pressing on the trigger-knob underneath will discharge it4 ,do not press on the trigger-knob when the piece is being cocked4 ,the lock-case or breech may be closed by a slight pressure upon the spring sight4 ,for hunting or target practice1 remove the tip or ferule at the muzzle4 ,if it is required to use the arm suddenly1 as for self-defense1 it is not necessary to remove the tip4 ,to remove the lock-case1 remove the ferule under the handle by driving it down1 take out the pin under the ferule1 draw out the handle1 draw the cane to full cock and press down and back the trigger1 unscrew the lock from the barrel and push the cock out at the top end of the case4 ,in replacing the lock be careful to get the slot on a line with the guide inside of the case1 and press down the sight spring4 ,billings' ,breech ,loading ,shot ,gun4--7,made by ,billings ,spencer1 ,hartford1 ,conn47--,this arm is provided with a backward and upward moving breech block in the rear of the cartridge1 the breech block turning backward upon the hinge1 which is a more natural motion than a forward turn4 ,to open the breech for loading1 half cock the piece2 draw the locking bolt with small handle on right side1 and pull towards you2 this retracts the firing pin1 also extracts the shell automatically at the same time4 ,the ,fox ,breech ,loading ,shot ,gun4--7,made by ,american ,arms ,co41 ,boston1 ,mass47--,to take apart3 ,to detach the barrels1 first open the gun as if for loading1 which is done by pressing forward the thumb-piece on the top of the stock2 then with the left thumb at a point about two inches from the end of the barrels1 press the barrels towards the right and the gun is in position to load4 ,next turn the gun over in the right hand1 holding it by the small of the stock1 the end of the stock under the elbow supporting the weight of the gun2 with the left thumb press the extractor home1 and1 with the thumb placed on the extractor spring1 as close up to the fore end as convenient1 press down the extractor firmly1 and gently swinging the stock to the right until the detachment is obtained4 ,to attach the barrels again1 grasp the barrels with the plate up1 so that the large screw at the head of the plate comes about at the center of the hand2 be sure that the extractor is home4 ,place the opening for the screw which is in the breech-plate1 over the screw1 with the stock at an angle of about forty-five degrees with the barrels1 at the same time put the left thumb on the end of the fore end1 holding it firmly and flat on the plate1 the stock-plate covering the guide-pin next the screw on the barrels1 but not the pin on the extractor2 gently move the stock until the two plates come into perfect contact1 when the barrel will swing into position4 ,to remove the extractor1 detach the barrels from the stock1 lay them on a table with the plate up and muzzle from gun2 pull out the extractor as far as it will come readily1 then turn it to the left until the short arm strikes end of the barrels2 now draw it straight out1 meanwhile holding a finger over the extractor button to prevent its springing out and getting lost1 when the button and locking stud will fall out of their own weight4 ,to replace the extractor1 lay the extractor button in its cavity and slide the long shank of the extractor through it1 then place the locking stud in position1 holding it snug against the rear end of its seat1 run the extractor into it1 solid home1 and turn to the right till the short arm is opposite its hole1 when push straight in4 ,to take out firing pins1 remove the screw holding them1 which will be found in the breech-piece at the rear of the scroll-fence4 ,the ,lefever ,hammerless ,gun4--7,made by ,daniel ,lefever1 ,syracuse1 ,n4 ,y47--,locks are rebounding4 ,to take apart3 ,to take off the lock1 see that both hammers are down2 take out lever-screw2 remove lever2 turn out lock plate screw and drive off right hand lock by tapping on head of lock plate screw2 take out the screw and insert in sear hole1 and drive off left hand plate4 ,to take out the hammers1 turn in the screws in bottom of the frame until the mainspring will allow the hammer to drop back far enough to allow its being lifted out of the frame4 ,in putting back1 be careful to press the projection on the lever on top of the spring that holds it1 up to place1 before putting the lever-screw in4 ,parker ,double-barreled ,breech-loading ,shot ,gun4 7,made by ,parker ,brothers1 ,meriden1 ,conn47--#a4 ,finger piece4 #b4 ,guard4 #c4 ,lifter4 #d4 ,locking bolt screws4 #e4 ,locking bolt4 #f4 ,barrel lug4 #g4 ,trip4 #h4 ,trip spring4 #aa4 ,extractor4 #ac4 ,joint ,roll4 ,the finger piece is solid and a part of lifter4 ,pressing up the finger piece in front of guard raises the lifter1 and its beveled side coming in contact with the locking bolt screw1 acts as a wedge to draw the locking bolt from the mortise in the lug1 and releases the barrels so that they tilt upward ready to receive the cartridges4 ,when the bolt is back to the position shown in ,fig4 #b1 the small hole which is drilled in the under side of the bolt comes directly over the trip1 which1 by the assistance of the trip spring1 is made to enter the hole in the bolt and thereby hold it in position4 ,for cleaning1 it can be very easily removed by taking off the locks and removing the locking bolt screw from the end of the locking bolt1 then press down on the trip1 which will allow the lifter to be withdrawn without removing either stock1 guard or trigger-plate4 ,to replace the plunger3 ,withdraw the cone with a common screw-driver1 by pressing it against the plunger until the screw-driver enters the slot4 ,after removing the plunger and spring1 be careful to replace them with spring at side of plunger4 ,remington ,double-barreled ,breech-loading ,shot ,gun4 7,made by ,e4 ,remington ,sons1 ,ilion1 ,n4 ,y47--,a1 thumb piece2 ,b1 lever1 engaging locking bolt2 ,c1 pivot of lever ,b2 ,d1 locking point2 ,h1 joint check2 ,k1 pivot pin2 ,l1 joint check screw1 limiting motion of barrels2 ,m1 hammer lifter2 ,n1 extractor2 ,o1 wire1 a shoulder of which rests against ,p2 ,p1 shoulder of dog engaging locking bolt2 ,s1 snap action spring4 ,to take apart3 ,to remove the barrels1 take off the tip-stock1 full cock both hammers and press the thumb-piece 7between the hammers1 and used for unlocking the barrels for loading7 upward as far as it will go4 ,the barrels can thus be detached4 ,in ,fig4 #c1 the locking bolt is drawn as far as the shoulder ,p will allow it to move4 ,this shoulder ,p is formed on one side of a little dog1 in the other side of which is a corresponding shoulder1 resting against the wire ,o4 ,so long as the tip-stock is in place this dog cannot yield or permit the locking-bolt to be drawn far enough to allow the joint-check to come out of the mortise in the frame2 but when the tip-stock is removed1 the wire ,o can slip part way out1 as in ,fig4 #d1 allowing the shoulder ,p to move back1 so that the locking-bolt can be drawn back clear of the joint-check--thus releasing the barrels4 ,the ,roper ,four-shooting ,shot-gun and ,rifle4 7,made by the ,billings ,spencer ,co41 ,hartford1 ,conn47--,a1 frame2 ,b1 receiver2 ,b1 hinged lid of receiver2 ,c1 hammer2 ,d1 plunger2 ,d1 head of plunger2 ,e1 plunger link2 ,f1 cartridges2 ,g1 carrier in which shells are placed2 ,h1 lever to revolve carrier2 ,i1 mainspring2 ,j1 sear2 a1 ratchet2 b1 stirrup2 c1 link connecting hammer with mainspring2 d1 pin of lever ,h2 e1 pivot of carrier ,g2 f1 firing pin2 h1 elastic tail of lever ,h4 ,to take apart3 ,to take the gun apart1 turn in the set screw on under side of cylinder forward of the guard plate screw1 until it comes to a stop4 ,then bring the hammer to cock notch and unscrew the cylinder from breech4 ,n4 ,b4--,this set screw turns in to take the gun apart1 and turns out to fasten the cylinder4 ,in putting the gun together1 screw up the breech until the set screw can be replaced4 ,this screw should be turned sufficiently tight to prevent any looseness of the breech4 ,to take off the stock and expose the lock1 take out the long screw that runs through the small1 rear end of receiver on top1 and the screw in the guard plate which fastens it to the receiver underneath in front4 ,then remove the stock1 and the working parts are exposed and can be readily cleaned and oiled4 ,the firing pin should be detached occasionally1 cleaned and oiled1 as its easy working insures certain fire4 ,to do this1 take out the small screw in the top of the hammer and remove the piston entirely from the receiver1 and the piston and firing pin are readily separated4 ,in replacing the piston1 care should be taken to put it in right side up1 the retractor spring being at the bottom4 ,never attempt to take out the screw which fastens the link to the piston1 until the firing pin is detached4 ,colt's ,revolver ,for ,army ,use1 ,cal4 #de4--7,made by the ,colt ,pat4 ,fire ,arms ,co41 ,hartford1 ,conn47--,a1 barrel2 ,b1 ,frame2 ,b1 recoil plate1 ,c1 cylinder2 ,,dd1 firing pan2 ,d1 center pin bushing2 ,e1 guard2 ,f1 back strap2 ,g1 hammer2 ,h1 main spring2 ,i1 hammer roll and rivet2 ,j1 hammer screw2 ,k1 hammer cam2 ,l1 hand and hand spring2 ,m1 bolt and screw2 ,n1 trigger and screw2 ,o1 hammer notches4 ,p1 firing pin and rivet2 ,q1 ejector rod and spring2 ,q1 ejector tube2 ,r1 ejector head2 ,s1 ejector tube screw2 ,t1 short guard screw2 ,u1 seat and bolt spring 7combined7 and screw4 ,v1 back strap screw2 ,w1 main spring screw2 ,x1 front sight2 ,y1 center pin catch screw4 ,to take apart3 ,to dismount the pistol1 half-cock the hammer1 loosen the centre pin catch screw2 draw out the centre pin1 open the gate1 and the cylinder can then be withdrawn4 ,to remove the ejector1 turn out the ejector tube screw1 then push the front end away from the barrel and pull it towards the muzzle4 ,the stock can be removed by turning out the two screws just behind the hammer1 and that at the bottom of the strap4 ,remove the main spring and trigger guard2 the parts of the lock can then be readily separated4 ,the cylinder bushing should then be pushed out for cleaning4 ,to remove the gate1 turn out a screw in the lower side of the frame 7hidden by the trigger guard71 then the gate spring and catch can be withdrawn1 and the gate can be pushed out4 ,to assemble the pistol1 follow the directions for dismounting in reverse order4 ,the mainspring is most conveniently mounted by turning in the screw part way1 then swinging around the front end of the main spring until it bears against the under side of the friction roll4 ,the cylinder bushing should be frequently removed for cleaning4 ,north's ,patent ,revolving ,pistol4--,to take the pistol apart1 take out the screw in the forward end of the lock and barrel frame1 which runs through the base-pin1 then draw back the operating lever so as to bring the hammer to the half-cock1 turn the cylinder round by hand until the mortise in the back end of the cylinder is found1 which mortise connects the cylinder with the recoil shield2 then unlock the rammer and draw it and the base-pin out2 the cylinder is then left free to be taken out4 ,when the cylinder is taken out be careful not to leave the spiral spring which lays in a recess made in the front end of the cylinder1 and in putting together be careful to replace this spring4 ,to take the lock apart1 first take out the main and lever springs which are both held by one screw2 then take out the hammer1 next the small screw connecting the lever with the link of the toggle-joint 7this screw is in the lever on the outside of the pistol just back of the trigger74 ,next bend up the toggle-joint and take out the lever and trigger1 which are both held by one screw2 then take out the toggle-joint and revolving lever1 which are connected together by two screws4 ,to put the lock together1 first put in the toggle-joint1 then the main and lever springs1 next the hammer1 then the lever and trigger2 next screw the revolving lever to the toggle-joint4 ,to put the cylinder in its place1 first put the recoil shield 7the piece with ratchets made for turning the breech7 into its place and draw back the operating lever so that the hammer will come to full cock1 at the same time pressing back the recoil shield as far as it will go1 still holding back the operating lever2 see that the spiral spring is in place in front of the cylinder1 put the cylinder in place1 let the projecting pin on the recoil shield come into the mortise in back end of cylinder2 then put base-pin and rammer to place and turn in the screw which holds it4 ,the ,remington ,revolver 7,smoot's ,patent1 made by ,e4 ,remington ,sons1 ,ilion1 ,n4 ,y47--,to load3 ,half-cock the hammer2 then turn the cylinder around so as to bring the chambers in line with the opening in the recoil shield1 in which position the cartridges can be inserted1 or the empty shells extracted by means of the rammer on the side of the barrel4 ,to remove the cylinder3 ,half-cock the hammer1 then slide forward the stud in front of the cylinder through which the extractor rammer operates4 ,the cylinder is replaced in the same way1 but it is generally necessary to turn it in its seat to get the pawl out of the way before the centre pin will enter the hole in the cylinder4 ,to take the arm apart for cleaning3 ,remove the cylinder2 then take out the two screws for holding the guard to the frame4 ,when the guard is taken off1 all the lock work is accessible for cleaning4 ,in order to keep a revolver in good condition1 the cylinder should be taken out and oiled before putting it away after firing4 ,the centre pin should be removed and cleaned to prevent it from rusting and impeding the rotation of the cylinder4 ,the ,remington ,magazine ,pistol4--7,rider's ,patent4 ,made by ,e4 ,remington ,sons1 ,ilion1 ,n4 ,y47--,to load3 ,draw the tube from the magazine2 hold the pistol barrel upright2 drop the cartridge1 rim downwards1 into the magazine2 when full1 insert the feeding tube in the magazine and lock in place by turning the caps and engaging catch in the notch under the barrel4 ,to fire3 ,grasp the pistol in the usual manner1 press the thumb upon the breech-block1 carrying the block downward until released from the recoil shoulder2 then draw the block and hammer backward until the hammer engages in the cock notch2 then let the block forward by an easy motion and the cartridge will be carried into the chamber2 the pistol will remain at full cock and is discharged by pulling the trigger4 ,in case the pistol should be loaded1 and cocked1 and not needed for use1 the cartridge in the chamber may be returned to the magazine by simply drawing back the breech and pressing the carrier downward until the cartridge is in position to enter the magazine1 then letting the block forward4 ,this is to insure safety in carrying4 ,the principle of this arm is such that the same motion cocks the hammer and carries the charge from the magazine to the chamber4 ,schofield1 ,smith ,wesson ,revolver1 cal4 #de4--7,made by ,smith ,wesson1 ,springfield1 ,mass47--,to dismount the pistol3 ,the only part of the pistol which will ordinarily require removal is the cylinder1 which can be taken out as follows3 ,turn the cylinder catch just #ahj deg41 as indicated by the notch on its head2 open the pistol2 press up the head of the catch until it clears the cylinder2 draw out the cylinder2 replace it in inverse order4 ,to remove the cylinder and ejector of the pocket pistols1 open the pistol until the piston protrudes half way1 raise the barrel catch and turn the cylinder two turns to the left4 ,to replace the cylinder and ejector1 open the pistol to its full capacity1 raise the barrel catch1 press the cylinder forward upon the base pin and give it two turns to the right4 ,the ,automatic 7,merwin1 ,hulbert ,co47 is so simple in its arrangements as to need no directions for assembling or taking apart4 ,,finis4