,,london3 ,,printed ,,by ,,spottiswoode ,,and ,,co41 ,,new-,,street ,,square ,,and ,,parliament ,,street ,,on ,,horse-,,breaking ,,by ,,robert ,,moreton1 ,m4,r4,c4,v4,s4 ,,london ,,longmans1 ,,green1 ,,and ,,co4 #ahgg ,all rights reserved ,,preface4 ,in these pages it has been my endeavour to point out some of the errors in horse-breaking which have been blindly followed from generation to generation1 and to embrace as much matter in a short space as is compatible with clearness of expression4 ,i hope that this little volume may prove of some service to agriculturists and horse-owners1 who often break-in their own colts or cause them to be broken-in by their grooms1 and that they may be able to realise larger prices for their horses when properly broken than they otherwise would4 ,robert ,moreton4 #ba ,onslow ,gardens1 ,south ,kensington4 ,,contents4 ,,chapter ,i4 ,,method ,,of ,,haltering ,a ,,colt4 ,,page ,that most in vogue--,a scene--,driving a colt from pasture--,getting him into the stable--,selection of halter--,how to tame lions and tigers--,signs of temper in a colt--,how to handle him--,tying him up --,an instance of a wild colt #a ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,,longeing ,,the ,,colt4 ,leading in circles1 semicircles1 and in a straight line--,bits used for mouthing purposes--,mouthing by machinery versus mechanical mouthing--,placing the tackling on the colt--,teaching him to pass vehicles1 etc4--,shoeing the colt #ai ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,,saddling ,,the ,,colt4 ,the common martingale--,the ,french martingale--,the proper position for the bit in the mouth--,riders with and without hands--,ditto with and without seats--,mounting--,the first ride--,remarks on grooms and coachmen--,how to pass a heap of stones--,when to use whip and spur--,mouthing--,horse-taming--,captain ,cuttle's fig-tree #dc ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,,teaching ,,the ,,colt ,,his ,,paces4 ,the walk--,ignorance of ,englishmen as to the value of the walk--,australian walking horses--,the trot--,the jig-jog--,the flying trot--,ladies' trotters--,the canter--,ladies' rocking horses--,the gallop--,trainers #fc ,,chapter ,v4 ,,the ,,road ,,hack4 ,his conformation--,the ladies' horse--,rotten ,row--,the covert hack--,the hunter--,for an open country--,for a cramped country--#8,made hunters'--,pleasures of a pulling horse--,breaking in a colt to hounds--#8,can he leap8'--,natural jumpers--,artificial fences--,lifting horses at their fences--,an incident--,water jumps--,how to fall well--,high-couraged versus sluggish horses--,washing horses' legs--,mud fever--,stopping horses' feet--,microscopic experiments--,english racers in ,australia and ,india--,paring horses' feet--,colts shedding their teeth--,composition of bone--,two-year-old racing--,prize-fighters--,early maturity and early decay--,famous ,american trotters3 ,topgallant1 ,lady ,blanche1 ,dutchman1 ,ajax1 ,flora ,temple1 ,lady ,thorn1 ,goldsmith ,maid1 ,dexter1 ,american girl--,racing now-a-days a money-making business #ge ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,,breaking ,,to ,,harness4 ,double versus single harness--,four wheels versus two--,breaking to double harness--,breaking to single harness--,breaking the cart colt to harness--,blinkers--,ladies' eyes #aaa ,,chapter ,,vii4 ,,the ,,barouche1 ,,landau1 ,,and ,,brougham ,,horse4 ,the ,victoria1 ,t-cart1 light waggonette1 or dog-cart horse--,the omnibus and van horse--,the cart-horse--,the ,lincolnshire dray-horse --,the ,suffolk punch--,the ,clydesdale--,scotch breeders #aca ,,chapter ,i4 ,,method ,,of ,,haltering ,a ,,colt4 ,,that ,,most ,,in ,,vogue--,a ,,scene--,,driving ,a ,,colt ,,from ,,pasture--,,getting ,,him ,,into ,,the ,,stable--,,selection ,,of ,,halter--,,how ,,to ,,tame ,,lions ,,and ,,tigers--,,signs ,,of ,,temper ,,in ,a ,,colt--,,how ,,to ,,handle ,,him--,,tying ,,him ,,up --,,an ,,instance ,,of ,a ,,wild ,,colt4 ,,chapter ,i4 ,,method ,,of ,,haltering ,a ,,colt4 ,the first step towards the breaking-in of a horse is placing a halter upon his head4 ,there are many methods of doing this in vogue1 most of which are by brute force2 for instance1 a farmer has a colt he wishes to halter1 so he gets his men together1 and drives the colt into a yard or stable2 a man then hangs on to the timid animal by one of his ears and his nose1 another man seizes his tail1 whilst three or four more men push against either side of the poor frightened beast2 then ensues a struggle3 the colt1 frightened out of his senses and not knowing what is required of him1 fights the half-dozen men clinging to him2 he rears1 kicks1 bites1 and strikes with his fore feet4 ,the men on seeing this1 and the farmer standing near1 say he is a savage brute1 and must be reduced by savage means4 ,the colt is then beaten with a broom or pitchfork-handle1 his tail is twisted1 and every means of inflicting excruciating pain is resorted to1 which instead of subduing the animal has the reverse effect2 the colt1 being driven to madness1 struggles and fights until he vanquishes his foes4 ,there is then a consultation between the farmer and his men1 and at last this ferocious beast is haltered by stratagem1 but throughout all his life he is either vicious or extremely nervous and shy1 for he will never forget his first introduction to mankind1 and the rough usage he then underwent4 ,i well remember a scene enacted during the above process1 and think ,i cannot do better than recount it here4 ,the colt to be haltered was driven into an empty stable1 and got into one of the stalls2 the men then all pressed forward to keep him there1 and the above method of haltering was gone through1 but the colt being a game one1 kicked a hole through the partition1 and knocked some of the men down4 ,after the men had recovered themselves they began again1 but with this difference1 that two of them got the colt's tail through the hole in the partition1 and hung on to it with might and main1 they being in security on the opposite side of the partition to that on which the colt was4 ,thinking it was not my business to interfere with the owner's orders1 ,i stood by and watched this process for an hour and a half1 till at last the men being exhausted1 and the colt as game as ever1 the owner asked my opinion as to how the animal could be haltered1 on which ,i told him that if he would withdraw his men ,i would halter him myself1 which ,i accordingly did in about a quarter of an hour4 ,to proceed with the subject of this chapter3 the colt or filly 7throughout this treatise ,i shall assume that every animal to be broken-in is a colt1 for if ,i spoke of colts and fillies ,i should only confuse myself as well as my readers7 to be haltered should be driven into a yard1 stable1 or loose box as quietly as possible--the best way being to lead an old horse1 and endeavour to entice the young one to follow1 having one or two men to walk quietly behind to keep him up1 for he might otherwise lag behind and then gallop off by himself in an opposite direction4 ,if the men follow up quietly1 and at a certain distance 7for they must not be too close1 or the animal will take fright and gallop away7 the colt will1 as a rule1 follow his leader4 ,the most important point is perfect quietness on the part of the men engaged in this business2 they should1 however1 speak in low soothing tones to the colt1 and do anything they may happen to think of to allay the fears of the young animal4 ,the men should keep their arms still2 in fact1 the best thing they can do is to put their hands in their trouser pockets1 and keep them there4 ,they must on no account yell and shout1 but do all they can to prevent the colt thinking they are following him2 in short1 they should dissemble as far as possible1 and try to imagine themselves out for a quiet stroll1 and that the movements of the colt before them have nothing in the world to do with them4 ,by this means a colt can be driven to the place selected to halter him in with little or no trouble2 but let there be any fuss or unusual noise1 and the animal will then1 through his instinct1 guess that something is going to happen to him1 and will show you a clean pair of heels4 ,i will now suppose the colt has been driven into a stable with the old horse1 and will also go so far as to suppose that there is a loose box in the stable4 ,not more than two men should be in the stable now1 one of them to hold the old horse1 and watch his opportunity of leading him out1 and the other to insinuate himself by degrees between the colt and the old horse1 and stop the colt rushing out when he finds the horse is leaving him4 ,my reason for now removing the old horse is1 that whether in haltering a colt1 or during any other process of breaking-in1 you should always dispense with anything that is calculated to draw the colt's gaze from yourself1 for you require his undivided attention4 ,a child cannot learn his alphabet and play with the animals in his ,noah's ark at the same time2 much less1 therefore1 can a colt1 being unable to understand what you say to him1 learn by your voice1 manner1 and caresses1 what you wish of him1 when there is another horse or man near him1 whose least movement will attract his attention1 if not alarm him1 being as he is in a perfectly new position--namely1 in close contact with a man1 who as yet he is unable to perceive will hurt him or not1 but his instinct points to the former4 ,after the removal of the old horse1 and the stable door being closed1 one man only should be in the stable with the colt1 who will endeavour to get him into the loose box1 the door of which should have been previously opened4 ,there should be no noise or bustle outside the stable to distract the colt4 ,the man in the stable must keep quiet1 and allow the colt to smell about and inspect everything1 taking advantage from time to time of any of his movements to manuvre him into the box4 ,the great thing is time2 take plenty of time1 do not hurry1 but watch your opportunities of improving your position4 ,this may be compared to a ,general commanding an army in action2 he stands quietly watching the battle1 and gives orders to his men to take up such situations as from time to time he sees will lead to the success of his army4 ,by degrees the colt gets nearer his loose box1 and out of sheer curiosity walks in to inspect it4 ,now is your time2 walk up quickly but quietly and close the door4 ,if you make much noise and fuss about it1 the colt will become alarmed and rush out1 and then1 through your own fault1 you will have to go through the whole performance again4 ,you had better now leave the colt alone for half an hour or so1 that he may become accustomed to his new quarters1 after which you may endeavour to halter him4 ,select a halter with a long #8shank' 7,i prefer one about eight feet in length1 if it is much longer it will be an encumbrance71 and tie a knot in it so as to prevent the nose-band pinching the jaws when the colt pulls at the rope on finding he is fast4 ,enter the loose box and close the door1 hang the halter up out of the way of the colt1 for it is better to approach him first without it4 ,avoid all unnecessary movements of the arms1 as they will frighten the colt2 when you take a step1 do it slowly and quietly2 if you only take one step in a minute1 it will repay you2 be deliberate1 quiet1 and gentle in every movement4 ,the colt will now be watching you1 not being able to understand what is going to happen4 ,speak to him soothingly1 and approach gently and slowly4 ,watch him1 do not stare in his eyes with a ferocious look1 as some people do1 under the impression that by so doing they can subdue the wildest animal4 ,i have been told it will tame a lion or tiger1 but ,i know it will not subdue a horse1 for ,i have tried it4 ,do not fix your eye on any one spot on his body1 but keep moving them from his eyes to his ears1 from his tail to his legs1 in fact keep them running all over his body1 for a man who knows a horse will understand by any one or combined movements of the above parts what sort of temper the colt is in1 and also in what form he may expect an attack4 ,for instance1 if the colt shake his tail impatiently1 and move one of his hind legs1 you may look out for a kicker2 if he arch his neck1 lay his ears back1 and take short snaps with his mouth1 you must take care he does not bite you2 if he paw viciously with his fore-feet1 he probably will strike you if he can4 ,i do not lay these rules down as facts which are invincible1 but that they generally show in which direction the temper of the colt will be manifested1 and thus the breaker-in can avoid being bitten1 kicked1 or struck if he keep his eyes open4 ,as a rule1 however1 the man should imagine that every colt has each and every one of these tricks1 and thus be prepared for any or all that may present themselves4 ,i cannot lay down any rule as to what point on the body the hand should first touch2 the best place undoubtedly is the shoulder1 but you must use your own judgment after having watched the animal as to what part of his body is most accessible4 ,some colts will allow you to touch their heads directly1 whilst others--and ,i think they are the most numerous--present their tails to you4 ,anyhow1 in whichever part they seem most inclined to allow your first caresses1 you must make it your rule to1 by degrees1 manipulate towards the head2 which1 after you have once been permitted to handle freely1 you may consider the battle as won3 for are not the senses of seeing1 hearing1 smelling1 and sensation 7,i have no doubt that the sense of taste has also something to do with the matter7 fully developed in the head8 ,thus1 ,i make a point of advising my readers always to make an effort to handle the head1 as by a more intimate and scrutinising inspection of your hand and body the colt is better enabled to arrive at a fair understanding with you4 ,now that the colt has allowed you to handle him to a certain extent1 and has found you are not going to hurt him1 you may leave his side 7quietly and slowly as when you approached him7 and get the halter you previously hung up2 but avoid all hurry1 jerking of the arms1 c4 ,hold the halter in the left hand with the #8shank' coiled up1 the end of which you must grasp with the right hand4 ,approach the colt gently as before1 speaking soothingly to him2 place your right hand on any part of his body which is easiest got at1 and work your way gently up to the neck2 spend some time here handling him with your right hand containing the #8shank' end 7,i am here supposing the man to be on the near side of the animal1 where he ought always to endeavour to be74 ,having reached the mane1 pay the rope out slowly between your fingers1 so that it will fall on the off side of the neck2 when about eighteen inches to a couple of feet have been worked out through your fingers1 you will see the end of the rope hanging down under the neck on the off side4 ,you must now keep handling the neck downwards until your hand is close to the rope's end1 when you must catch it quietly and tie it on the near side so as to form a noose round the animal's neck4 ,you can do all this easily with your one hand as it is all finger work1 but if you have your left hand to help you there would in all probability be a good deal of elbow movement which would frighten the colt1 make him move1 and most likely all your manipulation would have to be gone through again4 ,although as yet the halter is not on the colt's head1 it is virtually there2 for now that you have a rope round his neck you have him to a certain extent in your power1 and the rest is comparatively easy4 ,the next move is to endeavour to place the halter on his head with your left hand1 whilst you hold the rope in your right1 thus have partial control over the animal4 ,when the halter is near his nose he will #8bob' his head1 move away1 and feeling the constraint of the rope round his neck for the first time1 will struggle and endeavour to drag you to the other side of the box2 but he will soon give in1 and then you can easily place the halter on his head1 after which untie the #8shank' round his neck1 and all is finished4 ,you must now handle him1 pet him1 talk to him1 and make much of him1 but do not pull at the halter so as to make him fight4 ,in half-an-hour or so you can slip a leather head-stall over the halter1 and remove the latter4 ,some people may say3 #8,why do you not put the head-stall on first instead of taking all this time and bother to put a halter on8' ,my answer is this3 the halter is easiest put on1 for the throat strap in the head-stall1 unlike that of the bridle1 is a fixture1 and in placing it on the head this throat strap scrapes along the skin from the chin to the angle of the jaw1 causing the colt uneasiness2 and another drawback is1 that in buckling on the head-stall the colt takes fright1 jerks his head1 and down drops the head-stall at your feet3 but if you put it on over the halter the colt has by this time got used to seeing and feeling your hand about his head1 and also you can steady his head with the halter4 ,again1 ,i think ,i hear the question3 #8,why do you take so much time and trouble to tie the halter shank round the colt's neck when you might throw a lasso over his head in a second8' ,my answer to this is1 that ,i do not wish to frighten the colt1 but by gentleness and kindness to make him repose confidence in me4 ,if you can spare time1 after placing the head-stall on the colt's head you may handle him for a time1 then place water and food within his reach1 and leave him to himself for the rest of the day to get accustomed to his new headdress4 ,on the following day you can handle him quietly in the loose box and offer him choice locks of hay or corn out of your hand to increase his intimacy with you1 and then you may tie a rope to the head-stall and fasten him up4 ,he is sure to struggle when he finds himself tied up1 therefore you must not leave him2 for if you have done your work properly he will have already recognised you as a friend and not a foe1 and will1 when he hears you speaking to him soothingly and encouragingly1 become quieter by degrees1 and will soon cease to resist4 ,stay with him for half-an-hour and pet him1 then release him1 take off the rope from the head-stall1 and leave him to himself4 ,the day following you can repeat the above1 and afterwards let him out in a yard or paddock by himself for exercise2 do not stay with him1 but let him amuse himself as he likes4 ,he has learnt his lessons very well so far1 and will be all the more fit for future instruction if he is allowed a little recreation4 ,there is no greater mistake than tying up a colt for half a day at a time2 it makes him disgusted with his lessons and also tends to make him hate the sight of his instructor1 which should always be guarded against4 ,the wildest colt ,i ever saw when first handled1 was after a fortnight's handling so fond of his breaker-in that he would follow him about wherever he went in an open field1 without having any allurements held out to him in the shape of corn c4 ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,,longeing ,,the ,,colt4 ,,leading ,,in ,,circles1 ,,semicircles1 ,,and ,,in ,a ,,straight ,,line--,,bits ,,used ,,for ,,mouthing ,,purposes--,,mouthing ,,by ,,machinery ,,versus ,,mechanical ,,mouthing--,,placing ,,the ,,tackling ,,on ,,the ,,colt--,,teaching ,,him ,,to ,,pass ,,vehicles ,,etc4--,,shoeing ,,the ,,colt4 ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,,longeing ,,the ,,colt4 ,the colt may now be #8longed' and taught to lead4 ,having procured a long cavasson of webbing with a spring swivel at one end1 fasten it to the headstall1 open the door of the loose box and allow the colt to walk out1 following him up quietly and regulating your pace to his1 so that he will not feel himself in bondage until he is outside the stable1 otherwise he would1 on finding he was not free1 commence to struggle1 and might possibly injure himself by running against the stall posts or slipping upon the stone floor4 ,once outside the stable endeavour to get the colt to the place selected for longeing1 which should be as near as possible4 ,do not pull at him1 but try to get him there by cunningness1 that is to say1 by taking advantage of his movements and manuvring as much as possible to make him go there of his own accord4 ,avoid pulling at him until you arrive at the longing ground1 for he is sure to resist and fight1 and it is best that this should not take place before you get to the cleared space required for his longing1 otherwise obstacles such as trees1 gate-posts1 c41 will interfere very much in your command over him and might also injure him4 ,if he should struggle before you have got him into a clear space1 use all your strength to hold him1 but keep as quiet as possible1 or he will become so terrified at your struggles as to fight all the more1 and it will become a pitched battle between the colt at one end of the cavasson and yourself at the other for mastery4 ,speak to him quietly1 but at the same time keep up a firm steady pull at him1 when1 as he has already become accustomed to being tied up1 he will soon give in and leave off struggling4 ,you must now slacken the cavasson a little1 and decrease the distance between you by taking a few steps quietly towards him1 then stand still and talk to him1 when he will soon recover himself and walk off again1 of course in the direction required1 for you will have placed him between you and the longeing ground1 thus he will walk away from you to it4 ,having arrived at last at the spot selected1 take the initiative by planting your feet firmly and taking a pull at the colt1 thus giving him his first real lesson in submission4 ,he of course will be astonished at your temerity and struggle1 but will soon give in1 when you must try to induce him quietly to walk1 trot1 or canter as he likes in a circle round you1 the length of the cavasson being the radius of the circle4 ,it is as well to have a whip with you1 but do not use it or even crack it until every other means have been tried to induce the colt to do as you wish4 ,as a rule he will give no trouble1 but will run round you at the length of his halter1 pulling more or less strongly upon the cavasson4 ,keep him at it for a time1 and then gradually shorten the cavasson and stop him1 pat him1 speak kindly to him1 and make much of him1 giving him a handful of corn or anything he may be accustomed to eat4 ,after having rested him you may start him again but in the opposite direction1 so as not to tire his legs or make him disgusted with his work4 ,he will soon leave off pulling against you1 and when he becomes a little tired he will get used to your word of command and will be glad to stop when told to do so1 when you should always approach and make much of him4 ,it is of the utmost importance from the very beginning to familiarise the colt with certain words to indicate what you require of him4 ,as soon as he has learnt to start on his circular trip and continue it without much fuss1 you must leave off and take him back to his loose box1 and on no account keep him at his work until he is really tired1 or he will soon become disgusted with it and will not exert himself on future occasions1 or he may turn sulky1 which is worse4 ,after placing him in his box again1 leave him to himself with food and water within his reach4 ,in the afternoon you may give him another lesson of from three-quarters to an hour in length1 according to circumstances4 ,on the following day you can teach him to lead4 ,take the colt on to the longeing ground and make him circle round you2 after a time1 when the animal has sobered down a little1 you can take in the cavasson by degrees while you walk round in small circles to the colt's larger radius2 keep on decreasing the distance between yourself and the colt until you are within a few feet of him1 and then continue walking round with him as before for a few turns1 when you can take in all the remaining length of cavasson and walk on as before1 but with this difference1 that at first you stood still1 being in fact a fixed point representing the centre of the circle1 then you described small circles to his larger ones1 whilst now you are walking side by side with him4 ,talk to him and pat him1 but be very gentle for fear he should take fright and pull away from you4 ,after the colt has become accustomed to this and has gone round quietly a few times with you1 you may by pushing against him1 gradually cause him imperceptibly to move in another circle1 that is1 with him nearest the centre1 whilst before he had been farthest from that point1 and so you change his legs and prevent him from tiring4 ,keep changing the direction of the circle from time to time1 and when you think he has learnt how to lead in a circle1 or that he is getting tired1 you can lead him back to his box by circles4 ,do not attempt as yet to induce him to be led in a straight line1 for if you do he is almost sure to fight2 he cannot be made to understand everything at once4 ,so far he has been taught to lead in a circle by stratagem1 and by stratagem he will also be taught to lead in a straight line1 but this must take place by degrees1 being postponed to a future day4 ,leave him in his loose box until the afternoon1 when you can longe him again1 and then by degrees shorten the cavasson as before and lead him in circles as in the morning1 but do not keep him out more than an hour1 after which take him back again in circles4 ,on the next day you may teach the colt to lead straight4 ,take him on to the longeing ground and run him round a few times until he has got rid of his exuberant spirits1 then do as before and lead him round in circles1 changing the direction of the circles from time to time1 by degrees enlarging them2 then1 instead of leading him round an entire circle1 make semicircles1 that is to say1 a half circle one way and then a half circle in the opposite direction1 and so on1 so that the centres of these semicircles will be in a straight line4 ,thus by degrees you can diminish the short diameters of these semicircles1 at the same time increasing their long diameters in length1 so as to form semi-ovals1 and by continuing to lengthen them you will in time have imperceptibly gained a straight line4 ,when you have to turn him do so in a sweeping curve1 and gradually get him into the straight line again4 ,keep him at this some time1 for this walking exercise will not tire him1 and he will get used to you and to his work4 ,in the afternoon you can repeat the lesson1 and also on the day or two following1 until he leads well4 ,on the second day of leading him in a straight line you should carry a whip1 to teach him always to walk with his shoulder opposite yours2 his head should always be in front of you1 and your body should be level with his fore-arm and shoulder1 otherwise if you allow his head to be level with you he will by degrees hang back1 and you will teach him to drag on you1 and for ever afterwards when being led you will have to pull him along4 ,to prevent this fault you must lead him with the cavasson in your right hand1 and with your left hand containing the whip1 whenever his shoulder drops behind yours1 you must strike him gently behind you1 when he will come into his proper position immediately4 ,by doing this and watching him carefully1 you will in a few days teach him to lead well1 keep his shoulder always level with yours1 and not hang back1 and thus prevent him in after days from being pulled along1 and save him much ill-usage and beating4 ,in two or three days he will lead well1 and then you may put the tackling on him1 which will consist of a roller1 a crupper1 and a bit4 ,the roller is nothing more than a surcingle having that part which corresponds to the saddle well padded1 having on each side of it on a level with the sides of the withers a buckle for the reins1 and behind1 in the centre line1 a ,d for the crupper1 which should near the tail have a buckle on the near side of it1 or it may be as well to have one on either side4 ,the buckle greatly facilitates placing the crupper under the tail1 as it can be put round its root easily1 instead of having to be drawn over its whole length from the tip to the root1 hair and all4 ,as to the best bit1 everyone has his particular fancy in this respect4 ,some advocate a large smooth snaffle1 with keys depending from its central ring2 others a large smooth straight bit2 others a straight bit with rollers on its mouthpiece2 others a large straight bit the mouthpiece of which is of wood2 others a circular bit consisting of a smooth ring with a loop on its upper surface at either side for its attachment to the bridle1 whilst others again believe in a bit having a smooth semicircular mouthpiece4 ,i will now mention these bits in their reverse order4 ,the semicircular bit being only a modification of the circular1 ,i may treat the two as one4 ,allowing1 as they do1 no relief to the gums and mouth1 through their continued pressure on them1 they are not qualified to give a colt a good mouth1 but at the same time they are most admirable bits for the use of grooms leading horses out for exercise1 or even for the horses they ride during exercise1 as they are least calculated to spoil a mouth of any bits with which ,i am acquainted1 and as it is a notorious fact that almost every groom 7and a good many gentlemen too7 hangs on by the bit instead of by the muscular power of his legs1 of course the bit which is least severe on a horse's mouth1 and calculated to do least damage to it1 is the best4 ,therefore ,i can confidently recommend both these bits for exercise work1 watering bridles1 and in fact for any stable work4 ,the straight bit having a wooden mouthpiece ,i also object to1 for by being softened with the saliva in the mouth1 it is easily torn and roughened during the process of #8champing1' 7for every colt will play with his bit as a rule17 and whenever it comes in contact with his teeth a wooden bit is more or less lacerated1 thus presenting a roughened surface1 which is anything but conducive to the formation of a good mouth4 ,the next on the list is a straight bit with smooth rollers or rings on its mouth-piece1 which are for the purpose of preventing the colt from sliding his mouth from one side of the bit to the other4 ,this may be all very well in theory1 but here prevention is not better than cure1 for the colt will so injure his lips and gums as to make him either hard-mouthed or extremely sensitive1 so much so in fact that the least pull on his mouth will make him throw up his head instantly1 and thus not being able to see where he is going to is the cause of many an accident4 ,this is the bit which brings martingales so much into use1 from its having been used during the so-called mouthing of the colt4 ,the next bit under consideration is the large1 smooth1 straight one1 with keys hanging from its centre4 ,so far ,i have condemned all the bits ,i have mentioned1 but this one will not allow of a mere mention and then a dismissal1 it having its strong points1 and in my opinion1 its weak ones also4 ,its advocates say it prevents the colt from being mouthed irregularly1 or in other words that the colt cannot relieve the pressure on its mouth by alternately leaning on either side of the bit4 ,this1 ,i must say1 is not reasonable1 for if the animal only arches his neck a little more1 and turns his head to the right when he is tied with the reins to the roller1 the pressure of the bit will be on the left side1 thus relieving the right side1 and vice vers4 ,again1 these bits seldom fit the colt's mouth1 and consequently they either pinch and hurt the mouth1 or are much too wide1 which is generally the case1 thus teaching the animal to slide his mouth on it from side to side1 for which trick the straight mouth-piece with rings has been invented for its eradication4 ,when ,i say that the colt can1 by keeping his tongue more or less elevated in his mouth1 prevent all pressure of this bit on his gums and lips1 ,i think ,i may pass it over as incompetent for the object in view1 namely a good mouth4 ,the next1 and last bit to be considered is the large smooth snaffle1 with keys depending from its central ring4 ,i consider this to be the best bit as yet invented for mouthing a colt4 ,no movement of the tongue can raise it from the gums or lips1 the colt can play with it with ease1 and seems to enjoy it1 instead of continually fighting with it more or less1 as he does with the others already mentioned1 with the exception of the circular or semicircular bits4 ,some people may say it causes an unequal mouth1 but ,i maintain that it does not1 for if1 as already described1 the animal arches his neck and turns his head to the right1 undoubtedly the pressure of the bit will be on the left side1 but the weight of the right half of the bit will still be on the right side of the mouth1 which cannot be the case with a straight mouth-piece4 ,again1 it is not of so much consequence as to whether this sort of bit fits the colt's mouth or not1 provided it is placed in the proper place in the mouth1 as the weights of each half depending from their centres will keep the pressure on both sides equal4 ,the great mistake made in mouthing a colt is that the animal is tied up too long with the bit in his mouth1 for when muscular contraction is exhausted he is forced through sheer fatigue to lean upon the bit1 and thus lay the stepping stone to a hard mouth4 ,men think now-a-days they can mouth a colt by machinery4 ,they tie his head up and down in the most intricate manner1 put a great bit in his mouth1 and if the bit is not considered heavy enough1 a bag of shot is tied to each side of it4 ,the animal is then forced to stand in a stall with his head tightly buckled up to the roller1 and there he is made to stand1 fastened to the pillar reins1 in a fixed position for hours at a time4 ,no wonder that half the horses in ,england have mouths like cast-iron4 ,colts cannot be mouthed by machinery1 but only by proper handling in the saddle4 ,it is of no use going through all the elaborate process now in vogue of stable mouthing1 india-rubber dumb jockeys1 reins1 c4 ,it is the man's hands only which can do so1 but at the same time ,i must confess it is a difficult thing to find a man with good and light hands4 ,perhaps this system of mechanical mouthing may have had something to do with hardening men's hands as well as horses' mouths4 ,i may now describe the proper position for the bit in the mouth4 ,it should not be drawn up tightly into the angle of the lips1 neither should it be so slack as to be among the incisor teeth1 but it should be exactly opposite the groove in the chin where the curb-chain ought to be when used4 ,i think ,i need not tell my readers how to put the roller on the colt2 the only things required are to take time1 be as gentle as possible1 and take care not to buckle it on tight at first1 but leave it loose for the first two or three days4 ,to put the crupper on1 all that is required is to unbuckle it on the near side1 elevate the tail1 place it in its proper position1 and then buckle it up again4 ,there will be no trouble in placing the roller or crupper on the colt if he has been previously treated as advocated by me1 for by this time he will have become tolerably quiet through having been gently handled daily4 ,most people fasten the bit to the head-stall1 which ,i object to2 for when you lead or longe the colt the cavasson is attached to the nose-band either before1 behind1 or on either side of it1 which necessarily must displace the bit more or less2 therefore ,i much prefer a bridle with the bit attached to be placed under the head-stall1 when there will be no fear of displacing the bit4 ,do not fasten reins to the bit for the first day or two1 but lead the colt out without them1 for he will have enough to do to get used to the constraint of bit1 roller1 and crupper4 ,when you have placed the tackling on the young animal1 you may let him stand in the loose box for half-an-hour to familiarise himself with the objects on his body1 when he can be taken to the longing ground1 and run round for a time in different directions1 after which lead him about for an hour or two4 ,in the afternoon you can longe him a little1 and then lead him out of the field and take him along a road or lane to accustom him to see and pass strange objects4 ,the road selected for his first lesson should be the quietest that can be found near the longing ground4 ,when he is startled at a heap of stones1 a log of wood1 or any other object1 he must be spoken to quietly and patted1 but above all allow him plenty of time to examine minutely the object which has frightened him1 when1 after a time1 he will approach it1 smell it1 and touch it with his nose1 thus allaying all his fears2 he may then be led backwards and forwards past the place a few times1 and proceed on his journey4 ,for the day following you will have to longe him1 and then lead him along the road both morning and afternoon4 ,always commence the day's work by longeing1 so as to take some of the #8gas' out of the colt and sober him down a little before he begins his daily lessons1 otherwise he will be so full of play as to pay no attention to your teaching4 ,on the third day you may attach reins to the bit and buckle them to the roller1 but be sure you leave them very slack2 you may also lead him about in more frequented roads1 and if he has been tolerably quiet so far1 you can take him through a village or town1 and thus accustom him to objects in a new sphere of life4 ,for a fortnight after the first tackling took place1 your work will be to lead him about roads1 towns1 and even take him to railway stations to get accustomed to the trains4 ,take the reins up a hole every other day until his head is carried perpendicularly1 but then stop1 do not take them up the eighth of an inch more4 ,at the expiration of the fortnight you must longe him with the cavasson attached alternately to either side of the bit1 so as to teach the animal side pressure1 for so far he has only been undergoing direct pressure4 ,it is as well to count how many circles he goes on one side of the bit1 and then give him a corresponding number on the other to prevent his mouth becoming one-sided or1 in other words1 having one side of his mouth more or less sensitive than the other4 ,do not keep him at this long1 or his mouth will become very tender and sore1 but occupy the remainder of the time in leading about the roads c4 ,continue doing this for two or three days1 and then1 having procured long reins1 drive him about on the longing ground or in a field1 turning him from time to time from one side to the other1 stopping him every now and then to get him accustomed to his work1 and if you do not pull at him too much1 but allow him plenty of play with his head1 he will in two or three days have a very fair mouth4 ,after the first day of using reins you may drive him about the roads instead of leading him4 ,of course1 during all this time--in fact1 from the haltering of the colt--you will have been freely handling him daily1 lifting first his fore-feet and striking them with your hand1 at first gently1 to get him used to the hammer1 and afterwards1 when this has been accomplished with facility1 the same has been done to the hind ones2 and after the colt has been taught to drive in reins1 it is time he was shod preparatory to mounting him4 ,in mouthing a colt he should never be placed in a stall and fastened to the pillar reins1 as is too often the practice now-a-days1 for it only teaches him to lean upon the bit and slide his mouth from one side of it to the other1 thus teaching him a habit to counteract which the ringed mouthpiece has been invented4 ,a day should be fixed for shoeing the colt1 and an arrangement made with the blacksmith to shoe him at a certain hour2 for if this is neglected1 the animal may have to wait his turn whilst three or four other horses are undergoing the process4 ,before taking him to the blacksmith's shop at the hour appointed1 the colt must be well longed so as to get him sobered down a little2 and if he is a very nervous fidgety animal1 he should be longed until he is really tired4 ,if on arriving at the shop the blacksmith is not quite ready for him1 do not tie him up1 but lead him up and down until he is wanted2 and then1 during the process of shoeing1 stand by him and do all you can to soothe and allay his fears1 at the same time taking care that the smith performs his work as quietly as possible4 ,if he is very refractory1 get his fore-feet shod and leave the hind ones for the following day4 ,after the colt has been shod and has been driven about the roads in reins for a few days to get him used to going in shoes1 he may be got ready for mounting1 but that will require a fresh chapter4 ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,,saddling ,,the ,,colt4 ,,the ,,common ,,martingale--,,the ,,french ,,martingale--,,the ,,proper ,,position ,,for ,,the ,,bit ,,in ,,the ,,mouth--,,riders ,,with ,,and ,,without ,,hands--,,ditto ,,with ,,and ,,without ,,seats--,,mounting--,,the ,,first ,,ride--,,remarks ,,on ,,grooms ,,and ,,coachmen--,,how ,,to ,,pass ,a ,,heap ,,of ,,stones--,,when ,,to ,,use ,,whip ,,and ,,spur--,,mouthing--,,horse-,,taming--,, captain ,,cuttle',s ,,fig-,,tree4 ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,,saddling ,,the ,,colt4 ,the colt must now be saddled4 ,allow him first to look at1 smell1 and feel the saddle1 then place it gently on his back1 draw the girths up1 at first very slackly1 put on the crupper with the buckle as before1 and a breastplate4 ,i object to a martingale1 my reason for which ,i shall mention further on4 ,at first do not put on any stirrup-straps or stirrups1 as they will only act as alarmants to the colt4 ,after petting him for a time in the loose box1 tighten the girths moderately1 and lead him out for a time1 and then longe him to accustom him to the flapping of the saddle2 after which drive him about the roads with the saddle on4 ,repeat this in the afternoon4 ,on the following day do as before1 but attach stirrup-irons and straps to the saddle2 you may also fasten a strap on either side of the flank to the crupper1 so as to get the animal used to having objects touching and dangling from him4 ,repeat this in the afternoon1 and also on the following day1 when the colt will be ready for mounting4 ,before mounting1 longe the colt well with the saddle on1 then take him back to his loose box1 and put on a ,french1 or as some people call it1 a ,dutch martingale1 consisting simply of a couple of rings joined together1 through which the reins pass4 ,to make this clearer for such of my readers who may not have seen one1 ,i will describe how this is done4 ,unfasten the buckle in the centre of the reins1 and pass each rein through a different ring1 then buckle the reins together again over the withers1 the rings or ,french martingale will then be between the colt's chin and his breast4 ,i much prefer this ,french martingale to the one in ordinary use1 which has two straps with rings at their extremities buckled on to the breastplate1 through which the reins pass1 for with the former you are able to steady the colt's head without constraining it1 which is the worst thing you can do when first riding a young animal2 while the latter fixes the head too much in one position1 and also tends to make him carry it far too low1 when all attempts to mouth him are useless1 for the bit will then be in the angle of the lips1 the very place where it ought not to be4 ,there is also a danger should the colt fight much1 especially with his fore-feet1 of their becoming entangled in the martingale or reins4 ,men put the common martingale on when riding a young colt1 for the simple reason that it gives them a good purchase1 and thus enables them to hold on2 a man who requires this aid to keep him in the saddle should never attempt to break-in a colt1 that is1 if he wishes him to have a good mouth1 or one only a little removed from cast-iron4 ,if a man can sit a colt without any pressure on the reins1 he will probably be able to mouth the animal well1 provided he has certain other qualities1 such as patience1 knack1 c41 for a man who can retain his seat without the aid of the reins has1 as a general rule1 light hands2 while on the contrary1 the man who relies upon the reins to secure him his seat in the saddle1 has neither hands nor seat1 and the sooner he contents himself with riding the horse nature gave him--to wit1 his own legs--the better1 for he will only spoil every horse he crosses1 provided they have not been already spoilt by some other bad rider4 ,to return to the subject4 ,after having put on the ring martingale1 see that everything is right about the colt4 ,look to the girths1 that they may not be slack1 see that the crupper is neither too tight or too loose1 and that no hairs have gathered under it1 and satisfy yourself that everything is as it ought to be1 even to the buckles of the bridle4 ,then gathering up the reins in your left hand1 and standing with your left side to his shoulder1 place your left foot in the stirrup1 and gradually bear weight upon it1 when after a while you may raise yourself in the stirrup1 so that both your legs are off the ground4 ,you must watch minutely every movement of the animal1 and speak gently and soothingly to him4 ,after standing in the stirrup for a few seconds1 lower yourself to the ground again1 and then repeat the same a few times1 until the colt seems quiet and used to it1 when you may throw your right leg gently over his back1 taking care not to touch him with it1 and placing all your weight on your right hand1 grasping the pommel of the saddle4 ,when your leg is over his back1 lower it quietly into its proper position1 but keep it from touching the animal's side until you have gently seated yourself in the saddle1 then put your foot in the stirrup and there you are4 ,now do not spoil everything by trying to make the colt progress1 but sit still1 talk to him1 pat him1 and do everything you can to pacify the animal1 and get him used to seeing you take such liberties with him as sitting on his back2 for1 mind you1 he feels an insult as much as you do4 ,if a stranger were to jump on your back1 you would immediately resent it by trying to get him off1 and by fighting him2 but if a friend were to do the same thing you would laugh1 and if you did not exactly enjoy the joke1 at any rate you would not resent it4 ,the same with the colt4 ,if you get on his back and urge him forward1 he thinks you are taking a liberty1 and as such are an enemy1 and therefore tries his best to get rid of you2 but on the other hand1 if you sit still and speak kindly to him1 he will recognise your action as that of a friend1 although he may not actually laugh4 ,after having sat on him a few minutes1 you may get off1 but very quietly1 so as not to frighten him4 ,release your right foot from the stirrup1 keep the leg from the animal's side1 and raise it to a level with his back1 then gradually lower it on the near side until you are standing in the near stirrup4 ,pause here a few seconds1 make much of him1 and then lower yourself to the ground1 take your left foot out of the stirrup1 and then handle and fondle the colt4 ,repeat this a few times1 and then lead him out to the longing ground1 as that most familiar to him1 and where he has learnt his several acts of subordination1 which latter is not the least beneficial aid1 for he will recognise it as the scene of such to you4 ,you must now mount him in the same quiet manner as before1 but sit still1 talk to him1 and above all do not urge him forward1 for if you do he will generally fight1 plunge1 rear1 buck or kick1 and then unless you are a good rider he will send you sprawling on mother earth4 ,a fight at this juncture should always be avoided1 for if he throws you he will know he is the conqueror1 and will most likely be a kicker1 a rearer1 c41 for some time to come1 if not for life2 but1 on the other hand1 if you get the better of him it may so cow him that it will be a long time before he gets out of the sulks1 or he may be a #8slug' and mean-spirited horse for the remainder of his days4 ,therefore avoid making him worse1 for if you only give him time he will most likely walk off of his own accord1 and if on the longing ground will probably walk or jig-jog round the circular track through sheer custom1 or he may take a path of his own1 but whether he chooses the circular path or one of his own1 do not check him1 but allow him to go where he likes for a time1 of course gradually sheering him off with the reins until he goes where you like4 ,do not pull at him1 let him have all the reins you can1 your only control being gradual guidance from side to side4 ,never mind his taking large corners1 you are not mouthing him as yet1 but getting him used to carry you1 and by degrees cajoling him into going where you require him4 ,you must not force him1 or there will be an open fight1 which is to be avoided for the first few days after first mounting1 but little by little cause him to go in your direction1 but so imperceptibly as to make him believe it is of his own free will he is going there4 ,it has been my theory from the commencement of this little treatise so to work as to cajole and manuvre the colt into following your wishes1 that they are so imperceptibly gained that he does not notice them as acts of actual obedience1 for they have come upon him in so gradual a manner that there having been no fight over the matter he imagines the actions to have been of his own free will4 ,of course there must be an open rupture sooner or later which will undeceive him1 but this should be avoided with all possible care until he has been mounted a week if possible4 ,ride the animal about the field for an hour or an hour and a half quietly1 not going out of a walk or jig-jog1 and then take him back to his loose box1 and repeat the same in the afternoon1 your object at present being to get him used to your weight on his back1 and to gradual guidance2 you are not trying to mouth him1 or attempting to teach him his paces4 #8,little by little1' and #8,perseverando1' are my mottoes1 and ought to be those of every man who undertakes to break-in a colt4 ,it is very much like bringing up a child2 you cannot give a child an adult's thoughts at one lesson1 or teach him right from wrong1 but must continue it over a long course of years2 and if you correct a child harshly1 or beat him without showing where his fault lies and reasoning with him1 he will either show fight as best he can--for he does not understand what he has done wrong or why it is wrong--or else he turns sulky and broods over his wrongs1 which latter ,i hold to be worse than the former2 and this holds good in the horse1 for a sulky colt is much harder to overcome and requires much more patience than one which breaks out in open fight1 for when the fight is over it is over1 but with a sulky one there is no knowing how long it may last4 ,as it is best to reason with a child1 and prove to him that he is wrong1 instead of whipping him1 so is it best to teach a horse by degrees what is required of him1 for he cannot be reasoned with1 but must learn step by step the lessons given him4 ,if you endeavour to teach him too much at once1 or in too rapid strides1 he cannot understand1 and therefore when you punish or reprimand him he turns sulky1 or shows fight1 and very naturally too1 for he does not know why he has been punished after doing his best to please you4 ,ride the colt for the three following days 7morning and afternoon7 about the field so as to avoid a fight with him caused by passing carriages1 carts1 or any other objects which might alarm him1 and by so doing he will gradually become accustomed to the guidance of the reins and understand the pressure of the heels and other little signs1 imparting to him the pace and direction in which he is to move1 after which he can be ridden on the road4 ,it is best to select a good wide road1 and to avoid all narrow ones and lanes for a time1 until he is handy at passing vehicles c41 for if you meet a cart in a lane there is very little room for him to pass it by1 and as he is almost sure to dance about a little there is always some danger of his hurting himself against the wheel or some projecting part of the cart2 but on the other hand1 if the road be wide there is no such danger1 and he will also be got past any object which may frighten him much easier1 and the chances of having a fight with him are thus reduced to a minimum4 ,always avoid a fight if possible by every means in your power1 for instance1 if a carriage is coming very fast towards you1 either from behind or in front1 and you think it calculated to frighten your pupil very much1 you can by raising your hand show the coachman that you wish him to drive quietly until he has passed you1 and you will find that in ninety-nine cases out of a hundred he is civil enough to comply with your mute request1 but the hundredth deserves---- ,well1 perhaps the less said about his deserts the better1 for ,i suppose it is impossible to find a flock of human beings without one black sheep amongst them1 above all amongst grooms and coachmen1 who as a class are the most ignorant and bigoted men on the face of the earth2 there are1 however1 some few trustworthy excellent men among them1 but they are very few and far between4 ,if on nearing a heap of stones or any other object1 such as a woman's petticoat or other garments drying on a hedge1 at which the colt seems inclined to be frightened1 do not flog him past but speak kindly to him and pat him1 do not hurry1 but let the animal take his own time1 and you will find by degrees that he will take a step or two towards it1 and at last get close to and possibly touch it with his nose after having smelt it2 then you must ride him backwards and forwards past it a few times1 and when he has ceased to notice it continue on your way4 ,you will of course have a fight some time or other1 for the colt may wish at some cross roads to choose one for himself1 irrespective of any choice on your part1 or he may wish to follow some horse on the road before him1 and refuse to leave an animal feeding by the roadside1 but in whichever mode he disputes your authority you must undeceive him1 and that thoroughly and at once4 ,if he requires whip and spur1 let him have them1 but remember1 never allow him to get the upper hand of you1 for if so1 you may just as well turn him out and leave off breaking1 until you have found a man who can master him1 for he will have found out his own strength and will not forget it in a hurry4 ,if it takes you half a day or even a whole one to make him do as you wish1 it will be time well spent4 ,after having ridden him for a fortnight1 you may discontinue the mouthing bit1 and in its stead use an ordinary plain snaffle1 taking care to select as large a one as possible1 for if it is too fine it will hurt the animal's mouth1 and either render it dull or extremely sensitive4 ,if a colt is well broken at first there will be no necessity in after life to resort to such means as those which ,rarey introduced1 or the dodging process of ,m4 ,carris as mentioned in the #8,pall ,mall ,gazette1' the paragraph concerning which ,i here reproduce3-- #8,horse ,taming4--,history repeats itself in horse-taming1 it appears1 as well as in other matters4 ,mr4 ,rarey and ,cruiser have met with their match in ,m4 ,carris and ,trocadro4 ,trocadro1 son of ,monarque and ,antonio1 has of late exhibited symptoms of the most fearful ferocity2 and 8about two months ago10 according to 8,le ,sport10 ,m4 ,aumont 8met ,m4 ,carris10 who offered to tame the animal4 ,m4 ,aumont1 having inquired whether the means employed would not be drugs or such violence as might injure the horse or render him still more furious1 and having received an assurance that nothing of the kind would be used1 he consented2 and1 at a time agreed upon1 a visit was paid to the stud at ,victat-,pontfol1 and the experiments began4 ,the first thing was to enter the horse-box4 ,this ,m4 ,carris did1 in presence of ,m4 ,aumont and all the 8stable10 who 8s'attendait le voir dvor40 ,an exciting 8duel0 ensued2 the horse rushing1 time after time1 with open mouth and with 8hennissements froces10 at ,m4 ,carris1 who merely dodged him by rapid movements aside1 as the toreador dodges the bull4 ,after ten of these attacks so met1 8the animal suddenly stopped to contemplate the audacious individual who braved him in this manner1 and was at once seized with the nervous trembling which comes over #8le lutteur aux prises avec un adversaire contre lequel ses moyens habituels ont chou4 ,trocadro tait dompt6'0 ,and ,m4 ,carris took advantage of the horse's stupor to put a saddle and bridle upon him1 after which ,trocadro submitted like a lamb to have his fore-feet shod1 and ultimately his hind-feet1 without more ado4 ,the dodging process of ,m4 ,carris certainly beats for simplicity even the throwing-down process of ,mr4 ,rarey2 but it might be awkward if the tamer were to meet with a horse less susceptible of 8stupeur0 than ,trocadro appears to be4 ,the question suggested by all these horse-taming feats1 however1 is whether they could not be rendered altogether unnecessary by care taken in the original training1 and whether1 as regards the trainer and the method he adopts towards his four-legged pupils1 the gist of the whole matter does not lie in what has been said by a ,french authority3--8,s'il est brutal1 le poulain deviendra farouche1 violent1 et mfiant2 si1 au contraire1 il sait mettre l'animal en confiance1 la bonne entente s'tablira promptement40 ,it certainly seems that1 if a horse in his years of discretion1 or rather maturity1 and of confirmed viciousness1 can be tamed so readily by a resolute but gentle master1 there ought to be little or no difficulty in training him up during foalhood1 like ,captain ,cuttle's fig-tree1 in the way he should go1 so that when he is old he would not depart from it4' ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,,teaching ,,the ,,colt ,,his ,,paces4 ,,the ,,walk--,,ignorance ,,of ,,englishmen ,,as ,,to ,,the ,,value ,,of ,,the ,,walk--,,australian ,,walking ,,horses--,,the ,,trot--,,the ,,jig-,,jog--,,the ,,flying ,,trot--,,ladies' ,,trotters--,,the ,,canter--,,ladies' ,,rocking ,,horses--,,the ,,gallop--,,trainers4 ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,,teaching ,,the ,,colt ,,his ,,paces4 ,now that the colt has been mounted and more or less mouthed during his fortnight's road work1 he must be taught his paces1 viz41 how to walk1 trot1 canter1 and gallop properly4 ,ambling1 pacing1 and running not being in vogue in this country1 ,i shall make no mention of them4 ,the ,walk4--,it is of great importance to teach a horse to walk well2 there is nothing more disagreeable than riding a horse that walks as if he was crawling to his own funeral1 or one which will not walk1 but prefers to shake the life out of you with a jig-jog4 ,people in this country do not place so much value on the walk as they would if they had long journeys to go4 ,the ,australians1 on the contrary1 who live in the saddle1 appreciate a good walking horse1 and will give a good deal more for a walker than they will for one that is not4 ,an ,australian may be travelling a long distance1 or in search of lost sheep1 cattle1 or horses2 in either case the pace would be slow1 and probably the distance covered daily from forty to forty-five miles1 or perhaps more1 and to ride a horse day after day for this distance1 which will not walk1 but only jig-jog1 is simply martyrdom4 ,therefore those men who break-in horses for their own use take very great pains to teach them to walk well4 ,in ,england the average pace of a horse which has any pretensions to walking is about four miles an hour1 and ,i very much doubt if the best ever get to five4 ,in ,australia1 where horses are educated to walk1 good walkers can do their six miles an hour4 ,the ,americans educate their horses to trot1 and beat us at that pace4 ,a good ,australian walking horse will be able to keep up five miles an hour for the distance of twenty miles2 and for a long distance1 say a journey of two or three hundred miles1 doing from thirty to fifty miles daily1 he will walk four and a half miles an hour4 ,in fact a bushman knows to a mile how far he has gone by consulting his watch only1 for he is able to tell through experience the pace his horse is walking at1 just in the same way that a jockey judges the speed of his race-horse4 ,at all the largest horse-shows in the ,australian ,colonies1 special prizes are given for the best walking horses4 ,to teach a horse to walk well is a very easy matter1 only requiring patience1 time1 and a certain amount of knack4 ,the reins must not be drawn up tightly1 but on the contrary they must be slack1 and only so drawn up as just to feel the colt's mouth and no more4 ,a horse cannot extend himself and walk fast if he has not his head1 which holds good with respect to any pace1 for a horse can neither gallop1 trot1 or walk at his best1 if his head is confined4 ,when commencing to teach a horse to walk1 the only thing to be done is to prevent him from indulging in the jig-jog2 and to prevent this every time he does so1 he must be brought up to the walk again by means of pressure on the bit4 ,no endeavour should now be made at fast walking2 the only thing to be done is to make him walk in some style or other1 and to prevent him from breaking4 ,a man who is used to this work will feel the colt is going to break1 or wants to do so1 and so will be in readiness to prevent him1 or at least prevent him breaking badly4 ,it will take a month or more before the colt is tolerably free from breaking1 but as soon as he has got to understand he is not to do so1 and his breaks grow less in number1 he may be taught to increase the speed of his walk by pressure of the heel or spur4 ,you should not use a whip1 for it generally causes them to break4 ,as soon as he has recovered his break1 slack the reins again and urge him to his fastest walk1 which in time will be double what it was at first4 ,the colt should not be sickened of one pace1 but after walking a mile he must be trotted or cantered for half a mile1 and then drawn up to the walk again4 ,when a colt is being taught his paces1 he should not be out long2 if he gets an hour of it twice daily1 and is made to do his best all the time1 it will be plenty for him4 ,when he is walking he must be made to do his best1 and when he gets a trot or canter to rest him from walking1 he should be made to do that also in his best form4 ,by so doing he is taught to exert himself1 and to learn that he must not move in a slovenly manner1 and at the same time1 although the chief subject at present is to teach him to walk1 he is also being initiated into the proper method of trotting and cantering4 ,although he will1 in three or four months1 be a fair walker1 it will be a year1 or perhaps two1 before he has attained perfection4 ,the ,americans do not count months1 but years1 in educating a horse to trot4 ,to get a horse at his best pace requires time1 and time and patience alone can accomplish it4 ,the ,trot4--,there are three kinds of trot3 the jog-trot or jig-jog1 the true trot1 and the flying-trot4 ,the jog-trot is a most uncomfortable pace1 and is not faster than a walk2 the flying-trot is that indulged in by the ,americans1 and by our own countrymen in trotting-matches1 but as the true trot is the only one used by the bulk of the people in this country1 ,i shall confine myself to describing the method of teaching the colt the proper mode of progressing in that pace4 ,the jog-trot is a modification of the true trot1 whilst the flying-trot is an exaggeration of it2 therefore the true trot is the medium1 and the best for all purposes with the exception of race trotting4 ,to teach a colt the true trot1 the reins should not be held slack as in walking1 but should be well gathered up to make the animal place his hind legs well under him1 and also cause him to lift his fore limbs higher1 thus giving him knee action2 the great beauty and comfort in the trot being free action1 and as an extreme pace is not required1 comfort and looks are placed in the scale against flying speed4 ,the animal should be urged forward by voice1 heel1 or spur1 at the same time being kept in check by the bit2 he is thus forced to expend his increased exertions in the air1 or in other words1 he will trot with higher action1 although his speed will be little or no faster than before4 ,he should not be trotted more than half a mile at a time1 but whilst trotting must do so in his best form1 and when walked between his trots1 he must do that also in his best style4 ,what ,i have already said under the head of walking1 with reference to the time to be occupied daily in teaching a colt his paces1 applies equally to the trot and other paces1 for a colt1 if tired1 cannot be taught his paces1 and will only be spoilt if persevered with when fatigued2 therefore make him do his best all the time1 at whatever different paces he is put1 but avoid tiring him4 ,the off fore-leg is the best to teach him to lead off with2 but some horses go easier1 and with more comfort to their riders1 when leading with the near fore2 therefore ,i do not think a rule can be laid down as to which is invariably the best1 but after having ridden the colt a little time you will soon find out which way he goes best1 for ,i think it a pity1 if he goes best with his near fore first1 just for the sake of fashion1 to alter it to the off fore2 for although it is easy to teach him to lead with the off leg1 it will never have the same easy and free motion it had when using the near1 which in this particular case nature seemed to have intended for that purpose4 ,again1 some horses will trot equally well with either leg leading4 ,if the colt is being taught for a lady's riding1 he must lead with his off fore-leg4 ,the ,canter4--,by some writers the canter is described as a thoroughly artificial pace1 but why1 ,i am unable to understand4 ,the true canter is nothing more than a slow gallop1 as is the gallop an extended and fast canter1 the difference between the two paces being a matter of speed4 ,if the style of movement of some ladies' horses which go with a sort of hop and a shuffle1 which is generally termed a canter1 is the canter alluded to by these authors1 then ,i acknowledge it is an artificial pace1 and one very tiring to the animal as well as very prejudicial to his soundness1 and1 to my mind1 very ugly to boot4 ,if ladies must ride rocking-horses1 they would be much better supplied with wooden ones1 which could be kept at much less cost1 requiring neither food1 shoeing1 nor grooming1 whilst the wear and tear of the habit would be much reduced1 owing to the lack of mud thrown up4 ,luckily we seldom see one of these hopping1 shuffling brutes1 which by some are supposed to be the perfection of a lady's horse4 ,the colt is taught to canter by urging him forward1 the meanwhile restraining him with the bit4 ,in the canter as in the trot1 true action is required1 and for the same reason1 namely1 that speed not being requisite1 comfort and beauty of pace take its place1 which can only be accomplished by having the hind legs well drawn under the body1 and the knees well elevated and flexed4 ,if the colt is for a gentleman to ride1 ,i do not think it matters which fore-leg he leads with1 for1 as in the trot1 some animals lead better with one than the other2 but if for a lady1 the colt should always be taught to lead with his off fore1 which is done by drawing his head a little to the near side1 at the same time striking him with the whip on the same side4 ,the ,gallop is an extension or exaggeration of the canter1 the limbs not being elevated so much as in the canter1 but extended to a greater extent1 whilst the abdomen is brought nearer to the ground4 ,for ordinary galloping the colt requires no teaching2 only give him his head1 and urge him forward fast enough1 and he will gallop4 ,for racing purposes the colt must be taught to make the most of his gallop2 but as this is not a treatise on training1 and as the racing colt acquires his education under the supervision of his trainer1 ,i shall not enter further into the subject4 ,,chapter ,v4 ,,the ,,road ,,hack4 ,,his ,,conformation--,,the ,,ladies' ,,horse--,,rotten ,,row--,,the ,,covert ,,hack--,,the ,,hunter--,,for ,,an ,,open ,,country--,,for ,a ,,cramped ,,country--,,made ,,hunters--,,pleasures ,,of ,a ,,pulling ,,horse--,,breaking ,,in ,a ,,colt ,,to ,,hounds--#8,,can ,,he ,,leap8'--,,natural ,,jumpers--,,artificial ,,fences--,,lifting ,,horses ,,at ,,their ,,fences--,,an ,,incident--,,water ,,jumps--,,how ,,to ,,fall ,,well--,,high-,,couraged ,,versus ,,sluggish ,,horses--,,washing ,,horses' ,,legs--,,mud ,,fever--,,stopping ,,horses' ,,feet--,,microscopic ,,experiments--,,english ,,racers ,,in ,,australia ,,and ,,india--,,paring ,,horses' ,,feet--,,colts ,,shedding ,,their ,,teeth--,,composition ,,of ,,bone--,,two-,,year-,,old ,,racing--,,prize-,,fighters--,,early ,,maturity ,,and ,,early ,,decay--,,famous ,,american ,,trotters3 ,,topgallant1 ,,lady ,,blanche1 ,,dutchman1 ,,ajax1 ,,flora ,,temple1 ,,lady ,,thorn1 ,,goldsmith ,,maid1 ,,dexter1 ,,american ,,girl--,,racing ,,now-,a-,,days ,a ,,money-,,making ,,business4 ,,chapter ,v4 ,,the ,,road ,,hack4 ,i will here give a brief description of the several classes of saddle-horses required in this country for civil purposes4 ,the ,road ,hack1 worked as he is on hard metal roads1 cannot combine speed with durability1 as the rate of fourteen to eighteen miles an hour would soon wear out his feet and legs1 when he would only be fit for a tradesman's cart or cab work1 therefore a horse of this sort should be a good walker1 and be able to trot from eight to twelve or fourteen miles an hour1 doing it with good1 true1 and level action1 being neither too high nor too low1 for with low action when he has gone some distance and begins to feel tired he will trip over stones or inequalities in the ground1 and very possibly fall1 and if the action is too high he will soon batter his legs and feet to pieces4 ,with regard to make and shape1 he should be as near perfection as possible1 for without perfect symmetry no pace can be at the height of excellence1 but as perfect conformation is seldom met with1 its nearest approach must be sought for4 ,the head should be small and fine1 broad between the eyes and between the branches of the lower jaw at their angles1 also the distance from the eye to the angle of the lower jaw should be great2 the nostrils should be large1 wide1 clean1 and well-defined2 the mouth small1 with the lips thin and firm2 the ears should be small1 fine1 and pointed1 being carried firmly with their tips inclining slightly towards each other2 the eye should be large1 full1 and prominent1 with well-developed arch4 ,the neck must be long1 thin1 and fit well into the space formed between the branches of the lower jaw1 longer on its upper than its under surface1 as well as convex on its superior border4 ,the head should be well #8set on' to the neck1 which1 if the jaws are wide and the neck of the proper conformation will be the case1 and add very materially to the good mouth of the horse4 ,the withers must neither be too fine1 thick1 or low1 whilst a fine wither well clothed with muscle1 and yet not loaded1 is perfection4 ,the mane should be fine1 silky1 and not too abundant4 ,the shoulder-blade must be long and oblique1 not straight1 neither must it be coarse1 but blend gradually into the withers and back2 a coarse thick shoulder should always be avoided1 as also a very fine one1 leaving the withers to stand up by themselves like a plough-share1 for an animal with such shoulders will soon tire1 owing to insufficient muscular development of the parts4 ,the long oblique shoulder gives plenty of space before the rider1 the saddle sits well provided the girth is also deep and the action is pleasant1 but if the shoulder be straight or short1 or a combination of both1 the saddle will be too forward1 and when the horse stumbles1 as he is almost sure to do from defective action due to this malconformation1 he runs the chance of falling1 breaking his knees1 and perhaps the neck of his rider as well4 ,the chest should be deep and moderately broad1 both being essential to the full development of the functions of the heart and lungs4 ,the fore-arm must be long in proportion to the leg1 that is1 the greater length in proportion must be above the knee1 and the less below it the better2 the muscular development of the fore-arm should be as great as possible4 ,the elbow long and prominent1 not #8tied in1' but clear of the chest4 ,the knee should be large1 wide1 and prominent1 but should appear more or less flat when examined from in front2 the trapezium1 or bone behind the knee1 should also be long and prominent4 ,avoid #8calf' knees1 and those which are bent forward4 ,the cannon or shank bone should be as short and strong as possible1 and perfectly straight1 being neither curved forwards1 backwards1 or laterally3 the tendons at the posterior aspect of this bone should stand well out from it1 which will be the case when the trapezium is well developed2 there should be a distinct line of demarcation between the tendons and the bone1 but if this is filled up the leg will be more or less round instead of being broad and flat4 ,such legs are called #8gummy4' ,the fetlock joint should be large and flat laterally1 its posterior aspect being well-defined and prominent4 ,the pastern bones should neither be too long1 short1 oblique1 or straight4 ,if the pastern is long it is necessarily oblique1 and therefore weak2 if short it is upright1 and the severe concussion so produced causes ringbones1 windgalls1 navicular disease1 c41 besides causing the horse to be rough and unpleasant to ride4 ,the pastern joint should be well developed and strong4 ,the feet1 as regards the size1 make and shape1 c41 of the horse should neither be too large nor too small2 the walls of the foot should form at the toe an angle of about #de with the ground2 the sole should be moderately concave1 the frog large and strong1 and the whole hoof should be tough1 sound1 and not brittle4 ,the back should be straight and not too long1 a hollow back being objectionable on account of its weakness1 whilst a roach back is very strong1 although a horse having a back of that conformation will be rough to ride4 ,the ribs should be long and oval1 and they should continue to be so up to the very last1 and the space between the last rib and the #8hooks' should be capable of being covered by the breadth of the hand4 ,the hind quarters must be long1 deep1 full1 and broad1 as well as straight from the back to the tail1 the distance from the #8hooks' to the hocks great1 the stifle prominent1 and the #8second thighs' large and full4 ,the hock should be large and fine1 without being coarse or having any puffiness about it2 the point of the hock prominent1 and the leg below the hock incline a little under the body2 it should neither be perpendicular nor deviate laterally from the perpendicular1 or in other words1 should not be #8wide behind' or #8cow-hocked4' ,those parts below the hocks may be compared with the description of those below the knee4 ,the tail should be carried in a straight line from the spinal chain and then droop in a graceful curve4 ,the ,ladies' ,horse should be cast in a longer mould1 or his body will be almost hidden by the habit1 therefore his neck must be long1 and his back longer than that of a man's hack1 which will also give more elasticity to its paces4 ,he should be perfect in conformation1 paces1 mouth1 and temper1 which if one may judge by what one sees of ladies' mounts in the ,row1 is very seldom found1 by far the greater number being long-legged weeds or thick coarse carriage-horses1 as rough as an elephant1 and often very lame as well2 in fact1 they are horses that a man would not ride himself if he possibly could help it1 but yet he considers them good enough for his sisters1 daughters1 or wife4 ,it is quite a treat to see a really good lady's horse amongst the miscellaneous herd of nags to be found in the ,row during the season4 ,the ,cover ,hack is a cob of from fourteen to fifteen hands high1 capable of carrying his rider to the meet at the rate of about sixteen miles an hour1 and he must also be able to jump a little so as to go by short cuts if required to do so4 ,if for a heavy weight he must be a stout cob1 but for a weight under fifteen stone may be well bred1 or for a light weight actually thoroughbred4 ,the ,hunter may be quite thoroughbred1 nearly thoroughbred1 or half-bred4 ,if for a light weight1 say under twelve stone1 and in such flying counties as ,leicestershire and ,northamptonshire1 a thoroughbred should be ridden1 provided the purse be long enough to procure one up to the weight and with the necessary qualities4 ,a nearly thoroughbred will suit a weight of from twelve to sixteen stone1 but beyond that a horse with great strength1 good action1 and a certain amount of breeding--in fact1 a well-bred cart-horse--will be required4 ,if the country be an open one with large enclosures1 and consequently few fences1 the thoroughbred will be the best horse for hunting purposes1 speed being the requisite1 but for a cramped country1 a half-bred horse is the best1 being better qualified to get over awkward fences than the thoroughbred1 who has for generations and generations been bred for flat racing1 and consequently has to some extent lost the knack or power of jumping over a high fence1 although he can easily defeat the half-bred over a wide jump4 ,moreover1 the hot1 fiery1 and eager temper of the thoroughbred is not qualified to negotiate high1 frequent1 and difficult fences with calmness1 and therefore accidents are more liable to happen2 whilst the half-bred being of more equable temperament is not flurried to such an extent1 and when in any difficulty at a fence is more likely to recover himself and carry his rider safely to the end of the run than the thoroughbred4 ,as a rule1 the thoroughbred is not good over rough ground1 for although he may not actually have been trained or raced1 his parents in all probability have1 and of course the training-ground and race-course being smooth and level1 they have had no necessity or opportunity of picking their way and regulating their steps to the ground over which they are going2 therefore every breeder of horses intended for hunting should run his young stock for a certain period on the roughest ground he can find1 having a few open drains1 bogs1 c41 to assist in the education of the young animals over uneven1 broken1 and rough ground4 ,a hunter should be as near perfection as regards make and shape as possible1 he should be eager1 but at the same time his temper must be good1 his mouth also should be perfect4 ,it is easy to buy a so-called #8made hunter' provided the purse be of sufficient elasticity to meet the demands of the vendor4 ,as a rule1 and with very few exceptions1 this #8made hunter' is a good leaper1 has a hard mouth1 and when in view of a fence clenches his bit in his mouth1 and rushes at it at the speed of twenty miles an hour4 ,i should like to know what pleasure can be derived by riding such a brute as above described4 ,it takes all a man can do to moderate the animal's pace1 it requires two hands on the reins to turn him from side to side1 and the rider has the pleasant prospect in the event of a mistake at a fence1 of his horse not being able to recover himself1 the almost inevitable #8spill' being the result4 ,besides1 his mount requiring all his attention1 he is thus unable to enjoy the hunting1 that is to say1 he is unable to watch the working of the hounds1 and thus his day's hunting 7so called7 is nothing more than a modified steeplechase with none of its accompanying pleasures4 ,to have a good hunter the best way is to break him in yourself1 provided you are competent to do so1 having a good seat1 good hands1 patience1 pluck1 and above all a liking for the work4 ,i will suppose you have a three-year-old1 broken to road work1 and that you wish to break him to hounds4 ,the best way to do so will be to ride him to the meets as often as possible1 and when he has got accustomed to the excitement of being amongst a crowd of horsemen in gay-coloured coats1 the foot-people and the hounds1 you may allow him a longer #8interview' with them by following them to the covert4 ,harriers are the best for this purpose1 owing to #8puss' as a rule running in a circle1 where you have the opportunity of showing your colt everything1 without #8taking it out of him4' ,besides1 the pace being so moderate you can always get some one to give you a lead over a small fence or two1 in fact you are teaching your colt to become used to the crush1 excitement1 c41 and at the same time giving him a few easy lessons in leaping4 #8,can he leap8' is a common question amongst #8horsey' men when alluding to a colt4 ,my answer to this is that any colt will jump if in good hands1 and provided he has not already been made a fool of by some greater fool than himself4 ,whether it be a thoroughbred1 half-bred1 or cart colt1 he will naturally jump if he has not been previously messed about with4 ,i do not say they will all leap an equal height or an equal width1 but that they will do so to the best of their abilities4 ,i have frequently leaped colts over fences in cool blood within a week or fortnight after having first mounted them1 and never met with a refusal4 ,i do not mean to say that it is good practice to do so so early1 but merely mention the fact4 ,when you first begin to follow hounds with your colt1 do not stay with them more than an hour1 and if they are running fast leave them before that time has expired1 for your object at present is not to gallop after hounds1 but to accustom your animal to the bustle and excitement connected with hunting4 ,with a three-year-old no galloping should be done1 but if the hounds after the first draw go away1 and you think it probable the fox will return to that covert1 or to one near it1 you may #8potter' about a little in the hopes of falling in with them again1 but you must be sure to take your colt home before he is tired1 for the excitement will carry him through for a time1 but on reaching home he may be quite done up1 refuse his food1 and be anything but ,a #a for two or three days4 ,all a three-year-old should do1 is to go to the meet and trot about with the hounds till they find1 and if there is a probable chance of them circling about for a time1 as when in a big wood1 he may still be kept moving4 ,but when hounds commence to run1 the colt should be turned homewards and ridden quietly so as to get him settled down if possible before reaching his stables2 he should then be roughly groomed and left to himself with a feed of corn for a time1 before his final polish up4 ,a four-year-old may be allowed to follow the hounds when running for a short distance1 but at the first check should be ridden home quietly1 and if the run is very fast he should be eased off1 and when the field is out of sight turned homewards4 ,a five-year-old may do a little more1 but must not be ridden in a long or fast run1 neither must he be out with the hounds more than three hours1 for he is still a baby1 having only just shed his milk teeth1 and donned his permanent ones4 ,every hunting man knows that a horse is not fit to go through a run until he is six years old4 ,by the preceding remarks it will be seen that unless a man can forego the excitement of the chase he is not capable of breaking-in a colt with the ultimate view of making him a hunter4 ,to teach the colt to leap1 the best way is to take him over small fences every now and then with hounds2 but it will be as well to give him lessons in cold blood also1 and for that purpose a few artificial fences may be put up in a field1 care being taken to vary them4 ,thus1 you may have a plain hedge1 a hedge with a ditch on one side of it1 and another with a ditch on both sides2 some hurdles1 and a plain but low post and rail fence4 ,these fences should not be high1 three feet six inches to four feet being quite high enough2 the hurdles and post and rails should be firmly fixed1 otherwise the colt will soon find out that they are easily knocked down1 and then will not even try to clear them4 ,a fall or two over timber at the commencement will soon teach the animal that the fences cannot be thrown down1 but that to elude a #8spill' they must be cleared properly4 ,the colt should be ridden very quietly at his fences1 his head should be tolerably slack1 and every endeavour on the part of the rider should be brought into play to get the young animal to fence as quietly as he would canter over a field2 by these means rushing at fences is overcome1 or rather not taught1 and in the event of a slip or fall the animal has a good chance of recovering himself1 having the free use of his head and the pace being moderate4 ,one constantly hears of such and such a rider being very good1 owing to his being able to lift his horse at his fences4 ,can a man lift a horse when he is on his back8 ,could a man--booted and spurred if you like--seated across a form or chair with his feet off the ground1 lift it8 ,it is a perfect impossibility for a man to lift his horse at a fence1 and those people who are in the habit of using this expression evidently do not think of what they are saying4 ,what they really do mean is1 that the rider draws his horse on to his haunches at his fence and then1 with whip or spur1 sends him over4 ,this is all very well--but1 for all that1 is bad horsemanship--at an easy1 clean fence2 but if the leap should be an awkward one1 with the taking off or landing 7or perhaps both7 bad1 a horse so ridden would be sure to fall short of his leap1 and1 through his head being too much confined1 when he does come to grief he is unable to help himself4 ,therefore1 make it a rule to give your horse his head and allow him to take his leaps as he thinks best1 for depend upon it his instinct will teach him what is required far better than you can4 ,i have seen many a fall in the hunting-field through no fault whatever of the horse1 but owing to the meddling of his rider who imagined he was able to lift or assist him4 ,when a horse has over-jumped himself or is in danger of losing his balance1 if you pull at the bit it disconcerts him1 draws his attention away from his danger1 and down he goes as a rule4 ,i will here relate a case in point4 ,the hounds were running when a very high bank stopped the field1 who1 one by one1 were getting through a gap in the fence1 when a horseman1 being impatient of waiting his turn1 backed his horse a few paces and rode him quietly at the bank which was over six feet high4 ,the horse 7a four-year-old7 landed on the top1 but owing to its height wavered1 and seemed inclined to fall either backwards or forwards4 ,the rider1 with great tact1 sat motionless1 and allowed the colt the free use of his head1 when he soon recovered his balance1 and jumping down on the opposite side landed in safety and joined the hunt4 ,now1 supposing an ordinary rider had been in this predicament on the top of the bank1 he would have handled the reins and thus either pulled the animal back on the top of him or else have fallen on the opposite side2 in either case there would have been broken bones1 if not loss of life4 ,there is one exception to allowing a colt to take his leaps as he thinks best1 and that is when going over water or over a fence with a wide ditch on one side or a ditch on both sides4 ,when a wide-jump has to be negotiated1 the colt must be sent full speed at it1 so as to cover it in his stride1 being the opposite to high jumping2 for the higher the fence the slower should the horse be ridden at it4 ,i was riding a colt to hounds once1 when a watercourse came in our way2 it was not a wide one1 being only about twelve feet across1 but it was six or eight feet deep with bricked sides and having very little water at the bottom of it1 altogether forming an ugly jump for a young one who had never been over water before4 ,i sent him at it at a good pace1 but feeling he wavered on nearing it ,i swerved him round and put him at it again1 when he again slackened speed1 and knowing that he would not refuse ,i allowed him to do as he liked4 ,he looked down at the bottom of it for a second or so1 and then gathering himself together leaped over it standing1 but fell on the opposite bank with his hind fetlocks hanging over the bank2 another three or four inches would have cleared it1 but he fell so collectedly that he did not unseat me although ,i had to dismount to allow him to regain his feet4 ,i always considered this a good lesson1 for the colt afterwards1 whenever nearing a water-jump1 increased his speed of his own accord1 having evidently learnt that water could not be crossed standing4 ,depend upon it1 the less you try to teach a colt to go across country the better1 for he can do it much better than you can teach him1 provided you only leave him alone4 ,in teaching a colt over artificial fences1 great care must be taken not to sicken him of his work1 but every endeavour should be made to get him to be fond and eager to jump2 therefore1 if he is ridden once backwards and forwards over the fences three times a week it will be quite sufficient4 ,in the meantime you may give him a leap or two out of one field into another1 or take him out with the hounds for a short distance4 ,a perfect leaper is one who takes his fences as a matter of course1 just as he would canter from furrow to furrow over a field2 nothing can be worse than a horse who1 on seeing a fence before him1 rushes at it nolens volens2 as1 owing to the impetus thus gained1 if he makes a mistake it is very difficult for him to recover himself4 ,therefore1 take every precaution to teach your colt to leap quietly and without any fuss4 ,when a horse is required to hunt in a bank country1 it is a very common practice to attach a cavasson to his bridle and lead him over a few of these fences1 but ,i do not consider this good practice1 or indeed for any kind of leaping4 ,for if he is taken over small banks at first he will learn the use of his legs1 which in reality is the object required1 and if he should by chance fall1 the pace being so slow and the height so insignificant1 the rider1 if he be competent to break-in a colt at all1 will not hurt himself3 for a good rider ought to know how to fall well as well as how to ride well4 ,when you fall try to retain the reins in your hand1 but if you see that by so doing you run the danger of the animal rolling over or striking you1 you must let them loose1 and if you are quickly on your legs again you may regain them before the horse has recovered himself2 but if not1 it is far better to have a run to catch your steed than undergo the chance of being crushed or maimed by him4 ,high-couraged generous horses are apt to go faster and do more work than they should2 therefore they should be kept in check1 or their eagerness to do their work will not keep pace with their strength and endurance4 ,on the contrary1 sluggish animals require a great deal of work to make them fit to gallop1 and they also must be roused up from time to time4 ,although ,i feel it is not within the province of this little volume1 ,i wish to draw the attention of my readers to the malpractice of washing horses' legs and feet1 and also of #8stopping' the feet4 ,when washing horses' legs you are almost sure not to dry them thoroughly1 thereby inducing cracked heels and the so-called #8mud fever2' but if on the return of the animal to his stable the worst of the mud is brushed off with a stiff brush1 and when dry well brushed again1 the increased circulation so produced will excite a healthy action of the skin and prevent all disease4 ,horses' feet can very well be cleansed by means of a pick and a cloth without resorting to water1 which being absorbed by capillary attraction into the horn-fibres1 causes them to dilate2 and thus the horn-substance1 instead of being hard and compact1 is rendered soft and spongy4 ,again1 horses' feet should not be #8stopped1' nor should they be suffered to stand in their excretions1 for the ammonia given off from the dung and urine dilates to a great extent the horn-fibres1 thus causing the horn to be so soft that #8thrush' is the consequent disease4 ,i have lately made microscopic experiments on the healthy horn1 the horn soaked with water1 and that with ammonia and water1 and found the fibres in the horny sole soaked in water to be twice the size of the natural or healthy horn1 whilst that in contact with ammonia showed the fibres to be three times the size of those in healthy horn4 ,english racers in ,australia are allowed seven pounds because their feet are unable to withstand the hard ground2 and1 for the same reason1 ,english horses are useless for racing purposes in ,india4 ,shoes are nailed to horses' feet for the very reason that nature did not make them hard enough to stand work on metal roads1 therefore why do people put stopping into their horses' feet to make them softer1 thus counteracting to a certain extent the benefit derived from the shoes8 ,surely if people desire soft feet there is rain enough in this country1 puddles enough on the roads1 and surface water ad libitum on the fields1 to effect their purpose without resorting to such a filthy1 beastly thing as cowdung4 ,horses' feet get so soaked with water during their work or exercise1 that the aim of every horse owner should be to keep them as dry as possible when in the stable1 instead of doing their best to make them rotten and diseased4 ,horses in dry climates1 such as ,india and ,australia1 have very hard feet because they are never wet1 and for this reason are seldom shod except when used for work on metal roads2 but when in the rainy season they get soft they are obliged to be shod1 because their feet are not hard enough4 ,paring horses' feet is also a very bad practice4 ,nature meant the sole to be strong1 but when pared it becomes weak1 unable to withstand hard substances1 and thus gets bruised and subject to corns c4 ,the knife should1 in all cases1 be kept off the feet1 the rasp being the best instrument with which to shorten the walls1 and it is also perfectly able to remove all exfoliated horn from the sole4 ,is there any sense in paring an animal's feet1 and then having to put on leather soles to protect them8 ,hunters should not be put to full work until six years of age1 for their bones and tendons are unable to stand the continued strain4 ,until colts have attained their fifth year1 they are shedding their milk teeth and cutting others2 consequently their mouths are broken1 sore1 and the system more or less fevered4 ,owing to the soreness and tenderness of the animal's mouth1 he is unable to feed well1 and thus cannot be got into proper condition2 besides the colt cannot stand the wear and tear on account of his bones not being formed1 they having more cartilaginous than osseous material in their formation4 ,the adult horse1 that is1 one that has a full mouth1 has of osseous to of cartilaginous material entering into the composition of his bones1 whilst the two-year-old has about half of each2 therefore the cartilage predominating over the required quantity of osseous material causes the bones to be soft and unable to withstand the shocks of early work4 ,some owners of race-horses run their two-year-olds to find out their weak points4 ,in cases where weak points are observable at that age1 if raced1 they are sure to develop1 and thus cripple the colt perhaps for life1 whilst if he had been allowed to lay by until of a maturer age1 in all probability this weakness would have disappeared4 ,again1 if a sound colt be trained and raced when two years of age1 it is ten to one that his tendons and bones are not able to stand the work1 but that in all probability he will get sore shins1 splints1 or perhaps some worse disease of the legs or feet4 ,a horse is not able to undergo regular hunting until he is six years old1 and even then he should not be worked hard4 ,i think all our own countrymen know this1 although they do not always bring it into practice4 ,the ,americans know it and profit by it4 ,a growing colt does not make internal fat as does the adult1 therefore the system not having attained firmness1 cannot bear the scraping and sweating necessary to get him into condition for the hunting-field or for the racecourse4 ,if the fat is taken off a colt1 his muscular development is interfered with4 ,in the same way prize-fighters cannot stay if trained too young1 instances of which are found in ,aaron ,jones and ,m#8,cormick1 who1 although they felt well and fit1 were unable to last4 ,colts are forced to early maturity and worked hard when they ought to be in the nursery1 the result being that they are unable to last any time1 but become useless 7except for stud purposes7 before they have attained horsehood4 ,early maturity means early decay4 ,the ,americans break in their trotters1 as a rule1 at three years of age4 ,they then give them ordinary road work1 in the mean time gradually teaching them to trot in form by giving them occasionally a spurt for a quarter of a mile or so4 ,but they do not usually race them until they are from five to seven years old2 in fact1 they do not consider a horse to be at his best until he is from seven to nine years of age4 ,i will now give a few instances of famous ,american trotters1 who lasted well through not having been worked too young4 ,topgallant was foaled in #ahjh2 when in his sixteenth year1 in #ahbc1 he trotted twelve miles1 in harness1 in #ch m4 ,in #ahbi1 when in his twenty-second year1 he trotted four heats of four miles1 against ,whalebone1 and won1 his fastest time being #aa m4 #d s4 ,in #ahca1 when in his twenty-fourth year1 he trotted a race of three-mile heats1 which was won in four heats1 ,topgallant winning the second and running second in the deciding heat4 ,a week afterwards he won a race for three-mile heats4 ,lady ,blanche was foaled in #ahbi4 ,she first trotted a match in #ahce1 and when twenty-four years old she won a race of four heats4 ,in #ahee she died1 during her training4 ,dutchman was foaled in #ahbh1 and when five years of age was drawing bricks in a team4 ,in #ahcf1 when eight years old1 he trotted1 to saddle1 four miles in #aj m4 #ea s4 ,on ,august #a1 #ahci1 when eleven years of age1 he trotted1 to saddle1 three miles in #g m4 #cb s4 ,in #ahch1 when ten years old1 he trotted ,rattler for three-mile heats1 winning two out of three and the race4 ,in #ahdf1 when eighteen years old1 ,dutchman won another race1 but died in the following year4 ,ajax1 foaled in #ahcb1 when sixteen years of age was matched to trot a mare for twelve miles1 and won4 ,flora ,temple was foaled in #ahde1 was broken-in when five years old1 and raced the same year4 ,in #ahei she trotted two-mile heats against ,princess1 and won in two heats1 the fastest being in #d m4 #ej s41 when fourteen years of age4 ,in #ahfj1 when fifteen years old1 she trotted three miles in #g m4 #cc s4 ,she ran in #ahfa1 since which date ,i have had no opportunity of finding any record of her running4 ,lady ,thorn was foaled in #ahef2 she first trotted in #ahfd1 when eight years old1 and remained upon the turf until the latter end of #ahgj1 when she got injured through an accident4 ,her best one-mile time was accomplished in #ahfi1 for four heats1 against ,goldsmith ,maid1 ,american ,girl1 c4 ,she won three out of the four heats1 her fastest time being #b m4 #ah s4 ,goldsmith ,maid was foaled in #aheg1 and ran wild until she was eight years old4 ,in #ahfe she ran her first race4 ,on ,september #b1 #ahgd1 when seventeen years of age1 she trotted the fastest mile on record1 namely1 in #b m4 #ad s4 ,whether her time has since been beaten or not ,i am unable to state4 ,she is still on the trotting turf4 ,dexter was foaled in #aheh1 was not broken-in until he was four years old1 and until then had never eaten grain of any kind4 ,he did not trot a race until he was six years old1 and was king of the trotting track until #ahfh1 since which date ,i have no record of him4 ,in #ahfg1 when nine years old1 he trotted one mile in #b m4 #ag s41 and in the same year he won two heats against ,lady ,thorn1 for two-mile heats1 the fastest of which was done in #d m4 #ea s4 ,american ,girl was foaled in #ahfb4 ,she appeared on the track in #ahfg2 and ,i find she was still running in #ahgd1 when twelve years old1 and in that year did a mile in #b m4 #af s41 and in all probability she is still trotting4 ,dexter never trotted until he was six years old2 ,dutchman never trotted until he was six1 and underwent no training until he was seven years of age2 ,goldsmith ,maid and ,lady ,thorn were eight years old before they were introduced to the trotting track4 ,now having enumerated these facts 7taken from the celebrities of the ,american trotting turf71 which apply equally to hunting as to racing1 may ,i ask1 is it common sense to gallop a colt when a yearling1 to train and race him as a two-year-old1 and get him screwed and useless except for breeding purposes when he is three or four years old1 thus doing away with a long course of excellence and utility8 ,how many colts ever see a race-course after they are three or four years old1 whilst those that are able to gallop at five or six years of age are looked upon as wonders8 ,look at such horses as ,flying ,childers1 ,eclipse1 ,matchem1 ,goldfinder1 ,gimcrack1 ,pot-#h-os1 ,bay ,malton1 ,glencoe1 ,bay ,middleton1 ,st4 ,albans1 ,blair ,athol1 ,favonius1 c4 c41 who never ran as two-year-olds4 ,again1 look at ,macgregor1 who won the #b1jjj guineas in #ahgj2 and ,doncaster1 who won the ,derby and came in second for the ,st4 ,leger in #ahgc1 won the ,goodwood ,cup in #ahgd1 and the ,ascot ,cup and ,alexandra ,plate in #ahge1 and was sold for #ad1jjjl41 the highest price ever paid for a stud horse2 both these horses never ran as two-year-olds4 ,on the other hand1 look at ,the ,rake1 ,lady ,elizabeth1 ,queen's ,messenger1 ,pall ,mall1 ,almoner1 ,sir ,william ,wallace1 and a host of other horses1 who were not able to stand the shocks of training4 ,kingcraft1 although he won the ,derby in #ahgj1 came out badly afterwards1 which is generally attributed to his having run so much as a two-year-old1 plainly showing that however great his speed was1 he was unable to withstand early training1 and thus a good horse was spoilt4 ,we first begin to train them as yearlings1 and run them so much as two-year-olds that many become roarers1 like ,prince ,charlie1 ,belladrum1 and ,liddington2 or rupture their suspensory ligaments1 like ,student1 ,crucifix1 and ,dundee2 rupture blood-vessels1 like ,the ,rake1 ,hermit1 and ,atlantic2 whilst others fall down dead whilst at exercise1 like ,orinoco and ,aquilo4 ,racing now-a-days is a money-making business1 carried on under the cloak of improving the breed of our horses1 which in reality is quite a secondary consideration1 money-making being the chief object4 ,i do not say this out of spite1 for ,i am very much attached to racing3 in fact it is1 in my opinion1 the sport par excellence of all others4 ,but ,i must own ,i should like to see more attention paid to the improvement of stock than to the accumulation of the almighty dollar4 ,so long as we run two-year-olds1 so long will the stamina of our horses diminish1 and our two-year-olds run a few times and1 as a rule1 disappear for ever4 ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,,breaking ,,to ,,harness4 ,,double ,,versus ,,single ,,harness--,,four ,,wheels ,,versus ,,two--,,breaking ,,to ,,double ,,harness--,,breaking ,,to ,,single ,,harness--,,breaking ,,the ,,cart ,,colt ,,to ,,harness--,,blinkers--,,ladies' ,,eyes4 ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,,breaking ,,to ,,harness4 ,breaking to harness may be divided into two sections1 one for the well-bred horse and the other for the cart-horse4 ,the well-bred horse first requires to be well broken to the saddle and well mouthed1 for most carriage-horses are used for saddle purposes as well as for driving1 many gentlemen and ladies also riding their carriage-horses1 whilst some hunt them as well2 anyhow1 the groom rides them at exercise1 so they must be able to carry as well as draw4 ,the cart-horse1 being of a duller temperament1 does not require so much previous breaking-in before being put in harness1 and a great many which have never been first broken to the saddle will take no notice whatever if a man jumps on their backs and rides them2 but it is always best to break them in a little to riding at first1 as a good mouth is in that way best obtained4 ,when breaking-in a well-bred horse to harness1 that is to say1 one whose pace will be the trot and not the slow drudgery of the farm or cart-horse1 he must previously have been well mouthed and broken to the saddle1 before a set of harness is placed on him4 ,allow him to smell and look at every article of harness well before you endeavour to put it on him4 ,be very quiet1 and take plenty of time4 ,after having let him inspect the collar1 place it gently over his head4 ,some men prefer a collar open at the withers1 which can be slipped over the neck and fastened with a buckle1 but these stretch very much1 do not sit firmly1 but #8waddle1' and thus cause sore shoulders to an animal which is not accustomed to harness work1 and whose shoulders consequently are not hardened4 ,for the first day or two it is as well to put on a collar which is too big for him1 and when he is actually to be put to1 it may be exchanged for one of the proper dimensions4 ,by this means a colt will not become alarmed1 for the large collar slipping easily over his head1 he becomes used to the action by the time he is required to don his own4 ,the pad1 crupper1 and breeching must now be placed on his back1 the tail elevated1 and the crupper 7with a buckle on its side7 slipped under it1 care being taken that no hairs are enclosed by it2 then the crupper is buckled up1 the pad adjusted1 and the girth drawn up4 ,it is as well on the first day of harnessing the colt to omit putting on the hames and traces1 for they would only knock about and alarm him1 but if you decide on putting them on1 the traces must be drawn out horizontally and firmly attached to the breeching by means of straps or cording4 ,it is good practice to connect the collar at the withers loosely with the pad by means of a strap1 to prevent the collar from slipping forward to the ears when the animal's head is lowered4 ,a common riding bridle should then be placed on the head1 and the colt led about for an hour4 ,by using a common riding bridle the colt is enabled to see everything on his back1 and thus when any part of the harness strikes him he is able to see it1 and soon getting to understand the cause1 takes no further notice of it4 ,but when a bridle with blinkers is put on1 and at every step he takes the harness strikes him1 he then does not know the cause1 and thus becoming terrified1 it requires some time and patience to calm him4 ,after he has been led out for about an hour1 a driving bridle with blinkers may be placed on his head in lieu of the riding bridle1 and then he must be led about again for twenty minutes or half-an-hour1 when he should be returned to his stables and the harness removed4 ,you may repeat this for a short time in the afternoon4 ,on the following day he must be harnessed again1 but with the addition of the hames and traces1 and led about with a riding bridle1 which1 after a time may be exchanged for one with blinkers1 the same being repeated in the afternoon4 ,of course a very quiet-tempered colt will get used to the harness in much less time1 in fact some take no notice of it at all2 but with a high-spirited or nervous animal1 every precaution should be taken1 and plenty of time spent over the process4 ,the colt is now ready for putting to4 ,some people advocate breaking-in a colt to double harness in a break first1 whilst others recommend putting him between the shafts at once4 ,undoubtedly when a break can be secured1 it is both safest and best for this purpose4 ,as to single harness1 some people prefer four wheels to two1 their theory being that in a four-wheeled trap there is no weight on the animal's back1 whilst in the two-wheel there is4 ,if this were the only evidence for or against four wheels versus two1 their theory would be inevitable1 but unfortunately for them1 the four wheels have great drawbacks which counteract the benefit incurred by placing no weight on the animal's back1 for if the colt is restive and backs1 the hind wheels run out at right angles to the horse and driver1 rendering the vehicle uncontrollable and highly dangerous2 and also when rounding sharp corners1 or in turning1 the colt not being as yet handy1 the hind wheels are very likely to be caught against some obstruction1 and thus possibly overturn the conveyance4 ,again1 during the act of turning1 the hind wheels may become locked against the fore ones4 ,for breaking to single harness1 the two-wheeler is most certainly the best and safest1 for when rounding a sharp turn1 you know exactly where you are1 and have not got to watch any hind wheels1 thus taking your attention from the colt1 which1 as a rule1 requires all you can give him2 he can also back to his heart's content without much danger1 or at least without one fiftieth part of that incurred with a four-wheeled vehicle4 ,for breaking to double harness1 an old horse is required which is free from vice1 and well trained to start immediately the word is given1 and to stand perfectly still when required4 ,the break having been placed with the pole pointing in the direction in which you intend going1 the break-horse is put to on the near side1 and the colt 7which should have a halter on as well as his bridle1 the shank end being tied to the tracebearers7 led out4 ,the colt is then loosely buckled to the pole-piece1 after which the trace nearest the pole is passed over the roller bolt1 the animal's quarters are then gently forced towards the pole1 the outside trace attached1 and the pole-piece adjusted to the requisite length1 then the reins are crossed and buckled1 and the driver1 taking their ends1 mounts the box1 the old horse receives the word of command1 and the pair start without any effort on the part of the young animal4 ,if all this is done quietly1 quickly1 but without any fuss1 the colt will be put to before he knows where he is4 ,at starting1 and for a little way along the road1 a man 7commonly called the breaksman7 should keep beside the colt about opposite his shoulder1 so that at any moment he can place his hand upon the halter shank1 and be ready to assist the driver1 if required2 but as soon as it is evident that the colt is inclined to go quietly1 the breaksman may mount the stand behind the box1 and stand there1 but must be ready at a second's notice to jump down when his services are thought to be needed4 ,the break should not be out above an hour1 or the colt will be liable to get sore shoulders1 but must be driven about slowly1 and when required to turn round1 the breaksman must help him by pulling the halter towards himself1 whilst the driver turns the old horse in a wide circle4 ,during the drive the horses should be stopped and started again several times1 that the colt may get a few lessons4 ,for the first few days driving either up or down steep hills must be avoided1 but the work should consist in driving quietly about roads1 teaching the colt to turn round1 and also turn sharp angles into another road c4 ,a few days of this kind of work will enable him to be driven anywhere1 such as in crowded streets c41 but it will not do to take him into any crush1 for as yet he cannot be depended upon1 and might show fight1 which1 owing to the crowd1 might not be successfully baffled4 ,it is a good plan from the commencement of putting to the colt1 on his return to the stable to bathe his shoulders1 whether they appear tender or not1 with a cooling astringent1 such as the lead lotion1 for it often happens that1 although you cannot see or feel anything amiss1 they in reality are slightly tender1 and on the following day he objects to the collar4 ,many a horse has been made a #8jibber' for life through the want of this precaution4 ,when the colt has become tolerably handy in the break1 he may be put between the shafts1 which in all its material points will be the same as that described below4 ,in breaking a colt to single harness1 he must first have a couple of days' tuition to get him used to his harness1 as before mentioned under the head of breaking-in to double harness4 ,the harness is best when so constructed that the tugs open from above1 allowing the shafts to drop into them1 and every man who is in the habit of breaking young horses to single harness should have a set so made4 ,it is not difficult to place the shafts quietly through the ordinary tugs1 but when the horse is being loosed they are very apt to strike the animal and frighten him2 thus in many instances teaching him1 to his dying day1 to rush out of the shafts4 ,the two-wheeled break should be strong and high on the wheels1 that the splinter-bar may be high1 and so prevent the animal kicking over it1 should he be so inclined4 ,the colt1 wearing a halter besides his bridle1 is brought out1 the shafts placed gently in the tugs1 and the harness fastened in the ordinary manner1 as well as a kicking-strap over his quarters buckled to the shafts4 ,the driver now mounts to his seat with the reins1 whilst a man at the colt's head pats and coaxes him forwards1 when1 on feeling himself confined between the shafts1 he will probably plunge1 rear1 or possibly kick4 ,but whatever he does1 he must be reassured and calmed by kindness1 the man at his head giving him such little assistance as he is enabled to1 such as pushing against the shaft or pulling it towards himself1 according to circumstances2 he must also run alongside of him for some time1 but when the animal settles down and gets warmed to his work1 he may either jump into the break or stand on the step2 in either case he must be in readiness to leap down and help when required4 ,the colt should not be driven more than an hour1 and when required to turn the man must seize the halter and draw the colt round towards himself1 at the same time pulling the shaft on that side towards himself2 this must be continued for some days1 until the colt has learnt to push against the shaft himself4 ,of course1 when the animal is turned on the opposite side1 the assistance must be on that side also4 ,if the colt jibs1 it is best to sit still and coax him a little1 and when he is tired of standing he will move on2 but there are some animals which will not do so1 and then it must rest with the judgment of the driver1 with his knowledge of the colt's temper1 whether he use the whip and risk a kick or two1 and perhaps a rear1 or not4 ,a colt being broken to single harness should not be driven down anything like a steep hill until he is handy at other things1 for this is the most difficult lesson of all for him to learn1 as he then has the full weight of the vehicle pushing against him1 and it takes a long time before he will learn to keep himself straight in the breeching1 but will push sideways and run into the opposite bank1 if the man at his head does not take care and help him4 ,the bit ,i prefer to all others when breaking a colt to single harness is the smooth ring snaffle1 with the reins passed through both rings on either side1 thus converting it into an ordinary snaffle2 but if you buckle them to the separate ring on either side1 the bit becomes too severe1 pinches the jaw1 and causes so much pain that the animal fights with it1 and becoming restive1 pays no attention to what you wish to teach him4 ,breaking the cart colt to harness requires a very different method of operation to that used for the purpose with the lighter breeds4 ,some farmers put them in a team at the plough as soon as they have been taught to lead2 but ,i do not consider this happy-go-lucky style at all a good one4 ,they are not likely to have good mouths1 and the heavy strain of this continual dead pulling work makes them slow1 is inclined to make them downhearted1 and whether they work in the furrow or on the surface1 it causes them to move unequally with their fellow1 and so is very apt to make them jerky in their style of going2 and moreover1 being young1 with their bones and tendons undeveloped1 they are very liable to #8shoulder slip1' as it is commonly called4 ,the colt should be led about the roads with the breaking-in tackling on1 as stated in ,chapter ,,ii41 until he is used to passing objects1 vehicles1 c4 ,he should also be driven in reins1 and then ridden a few times4 ,after he has got tolerably quiet at this kind of work1 some cart harness may be put on him1 and he is then to be led or driven about for a couple of days without blinkers1 after which he may be driven1 with the addition of a cart bridle1 with blinkers1 when he will be ready for a few lessons in pulling4 ,three or four rails or planks should be tied together1 and attached by chains to the harness1 of course having a stretcher or cross-bar between them4 ,the colt is then to be led about a field with them1 and after he is found to drag them tolerably quietly he should be driven instead of being led4 ,you may keep him at this work for an hour1 after which he must be unharnessed1 and his shoulders bathed with an astringent cooling lotion4 ,this should be repeated on the following day1 and after that the weight of rails or timber may be gradually increased2 of course this hour's work daily is not sufficient1 so besides this he may be driven about the roads in his harness for an hour or two as well1 or ridden4 ,when he has drawn light loads of timber for a week1 he should be harnessed to an empty cart and taken on to a road2 he may be taken two or three miles--of course at a walk--and then turned4 ,when on his homeward journey he may be stopped and started again occasionally1 as well as being turned round every now and then4 ,a week of this work will make him tolerably handy1 and then he should be taught to back the empty cart2 after having learnt which he may be made to draw small loads1 and so commence to earn his living4 ,it is a great mistake to put cart colts to draw heavy loads at first1 for they are much more liable to jib if not properly broken-in than well-bred ones2 and when once a cart colt has jibbed it is the most difficult thing in the world to cure him of that propensity4 ,as far as ,i am concerned ,i much prefer breaking-in colts1 whether for heavy or light draught1 without blinkers1 for it is much easier and safer done4 ,who has not seen a horse perfectly quiet to ride but having a nervous temperament1 put in harness1 half-blinded by the blinkers1 carrying his ears erect but continually keeping them in motion1 turning them forwards1 backwards1 and to the side in quick succession1 his eyes having a frightened1 scared expression1 whilst his whole body indicates fear of something not understood8 ,put that same horse in harness without blinkers1 thus allowing him to see what is going on1 and he will be perfectly quiet and happy4 ,during the year #ahgd light carts were debited with #egb casualties1 including both killed and wounded1 in ,london alone2 whilst in #ahge the number was #gda1 being an increase of #afi4 ,the police report that reckless driving is on the decrease4 ,this great discrepancy in killed and wounded during the years #ahgd and #ahge is chiefly owing to the fact that tradesmen's carts are left standing in the streets whilst the drivers are delivering their masters' goods4 ,the horses remain still so long as there is nothing to disturb their equanimity1 but should a regimental band1 a fire-engine1 c41 pass by1 away they go on their headlong career until some passing wheel or lamp-post overthrows them4 ,now1 if these horses were accustomed to go without blinkers and allowed to have the free use of their eyes as nature intended them1 they would in nine cases out of ten not run away4 ,if some object suddenly fell with a crash near them they would certainly start and move a few paces 7and so would you71 but having the free use of their eyes they would soon see the cause of their fright1 and then understanding that no harm was intended them would become still again4 ,again1 if a band or fire-engine is coming towards them1 either from in front or from behind1 they are enabled to see it1 scrutinise it1 and become acquainted with its nature before it nears them2 but if the animal wears blinkers he hears a noise1 elevates his head1 moves his ears in all directions 7for being unable to see he makes as much use of his sense of hearing as possible71 becomes fidgety1 and when the object of his fears suddenly comes within range of his diminished vision1 he is very naturally terrified1 and the consequence is that he runs away to avoid it4 ,i am certain that if horses were driven without blinkers such accidents caused by running away would be greatly diminished2 it is only fashion1 that bugbear of society1 that causes blinkers to be an inseparable part of harness4 ,i am sure a horse looks better without them if people would only accustom themselves to the sight4 ,why hide a horse's eyes1 the most expressive feature in his head8 ,what would a lady be if her eyes were put out or hidden from view1 and unable to use them as some know only too well how to do4 ,in concluding this chapter let me remind my readers that bearing-reins are both useless and cruel1 the former because the horse cannot pull to the full extent of his power when his head is stuck up in the air1 and that all attempts to alter the natural conformation of his head and neck are futile2 the latter because the head and neck being kept in an unnatural and constrained position causes the animal excessive pain4 ,,chapter ,,vii4 ,,the ,,barouche1 ,,landau1 ,,and ,,brougham ,,horse4 ,,the ,,victoria1 ,t-,,cart1 ,,light ,,waggonette1 ,,or ,,dog-,,cart ,,horse--,,the ,,omnibus ,,and ,,van ,,horse--,,the ,,cart-,,horse--,,the ,,lincolnshire ,,dray-,,horse --,,the ,,suffolk ,,punch--,,the ,,clydesdale--,,scotch ,,breeders4 ,,chapter ,,vii4 ,,the ,,barouche1 ,,landau1 ,,and ,,brougham ,,horse4 ,the barouche is always drawn by a pair of horses2 the landau and brougham are also pair-horse carriages1 except when especially built for single harness4 ,i shall first suppose all three of these carriages are intended to be drawn by pairs of horses4 ,the horses required for this work are chiefly bred in ,yorkshire1 ,lincolnshire1 and ,shropshire1 being1 as a rule1 a cross between cart-mares--especially if of the ,cleveland breed1 now rarely met with--and the thoroughbred horse4 ,a good horse of this sort should be lengthy1 and yet have a tolerably short back2 should have oblique and muscular shoulders1 long1 straight1 and strong quarters1 besides having good knee and hock action2 the head should be neat1 and the neck gracefully curved and well set on4 ,he should be deep in the girth1 have a good round barrel well ribbed up1 and should not be less than #af hands high4 ,for single harness1 in a landau or brougham1 the horse must have all the above points1 but must besides be a heavier and larger built animal2 in height he must not be less than #af hands1 nor much above that standard1 for a horse which stands #af hands #c inches1 or #ag hands high1 is generally long-legged1 long-backed1 and weak in comparison to his height4 ,for the ,victoria1 ,t-cart1 light ,waggonette1 ,phaeton1 or ,dog-cart1 a better bred horse is required2 he may be nearly or quite thoroughbred1 but must be of good conformation1 and have good and moderately high action2 in height he may be #ae hands #c inches1 or #af hands4 ,norfolk supplies the best horses for this kind of work1 they being strong1 handsome animals1 high-actioned1 and fast trotters1 as far as fast trotting and high action are compatible with speed4 ,the ,omnibus and ,van-horse is rather a nondescript sort of animal1 being something between a carriage-horse and that used for heavy draught4 ,there is no distinct breed of this class of horse2 but a great many of our omnibus-horses come from abroad1 especially from ,normandy1 whilst the van-horses are chiefly chance gets1 picked up here and there wherever found4 ,colts got by a carthorse out of a half-bred mare are very apt to develop into van-horses4 ,an omnibus-horse should be capable of drawing a heavy load at a speed of about #h miles an hour1 whilst a van-horse should do about #f miles in the same time4 ,the ,cart-horse4--,the ,lincolnshire dray-horse is a large and magnificent animal1 being the produce of a cross between the old ,english black and the ,flemish horse1 but being very slow1 he has for some time been superseded by the ,suffolk and ,clydesdale horses4 ,in his day he was in great request for brewers' drays1 but owing to his want of speed he has now been almost discarded4 ,the ,lincolnshire dray-horse is now used for the production of carriage-horses by thoroughbred sires1 and also some breeders of ,clydesdale horses in ,scotland are rather fond of crossing them with the ,clydesdale1 and selling the produce as thoroughbred ,clydesdales1 thus realising a thoroughbred price for a crossbred animal4 ,the ,suffolk ,cart-horse is chestnut1 varying from a sorrel to a moderately dark chestnut colour2 he is rather long in the back1 deep-chested1 full in the flank1 and deep-bellied1 having clean and wiry legs and a full crest4 ,he is often seen in the ,south of ,england1 but the ,clydesdale is fast superseding him4 ,taking into consideration his make and shape1 ,i do not see why the mares should not produce good carriage-horses1 if mated with suitable thoroughbred sires4 ,the ,clydesdale certainly is at present the king of the cart-horses in ,great ,britain2 he is generally of a bay1 brown1 or black colour1 the bay and brown predominating4 ,he has a neat well-bred head1 a good neck1 deep girth and round middlepiece1 is short in the leg1 the bone of which is remarkably large1 and the fetlock covered with long hair4 ,much fashion depends upon the growth of hair at the fetlock2 formerly it was curly1 but now a ,clydesdale will not pass muster unless he has about six inches of quite straight hair on these parts4 ,great prices are given for these horses1 even when yearlings2 when thoroughbred or supposed to be so1 some good sires being let for the season at #ejjl4 ,in ,scotland they are all the rage1 great care being taken with their breeding1 although occasionally a breeder does sell a crossbred one as a thoroughbred1 thus putting a nice little sum into his pocket4 ,note4--,since the above was written1 a ,clydesdale ,society has been formed1 and a ,clydesdale ,stud ,book is being compiled4 ,spottiswoode ,co41 ,printers1 ,new-street ,square1 ,london4 ,transcriber's ,note ,inconsistent hyphenation has been retained3 break-in_/break in1 carthorse_/cart-horse1 flying-trot_/flying trot1 headstall_/head-stall meantime_/mean time1 mouthpiece_/mouth-piece1 racecourse_/race-course rocking-horses_/rocking horses4 ,the notation ,text denotes the use of small capitals in the original4