,,home ,,vegetable ,,gardening ,a ,,complete ,,and ,,practical ,,guide ,,to ,,the ,,planting ,,and ,,care ,,of ,,all ,,vegetables1 ,,fruits ,,and ,,berries ,,worth ,,growing ,,for ,,home ,,use ,,by ,f4 ,f4 ,,rockwell ,author of ,around the ,year in the ,garden1 ,gardening ,indoors and ,under ,glass1 ,the ,key to the ,land1 etc41 etc4 ,,preface ,with some1 the home vegetable garden is a hobby2 with others1 especially in these days of high prices1 a great help4 ,there are many in both classes whose experience in gardening has been restricted within very narrow bounds1 and whose present spare time for gardening is limited4 ,it is as first aid to such persons1 who want to do practical1 efficient gardening1 and do it with the least possible fuss and loss of time1 that this book is written4 ,in his own experience the author has found that garden books1 while seldom lacking in information1 often do not present it in the clearest possible way4 ,it has been his aim to make the present volume first of all practical1 and in addition to that1 though comprehensive1 yet simple and concise4 ,if it helps to make the way of the home gardener more clear and definite1 its purpose will have been accomplished4 ,,contents ,,chapter ,i ,,introduction ,,ii ,,why ,,you ,,should ,,garden ,,iii ,,requisites ,,of ,,the ,,home ,,vegetable ,,garden ,,iv ,,the ,,planting ,,plan ,v ,,implements ,,and ,,their ,,uses ,,vi ,,manures ,,and ,,fertilizers ,,vii ,,the ,,soil ,,and ,,its ,,preparation ,,part ,,two--,,vegetables ,,viii ,,starting ,,the ,,plants ,,ix ,,sowing ,,and ,,planting ,x ,,the ,,cultivation ,,of ,,vegetables ,,xi ,,the ,,vegetables ,,and ,,their ,,special ,,needs ,,xii ,,best ,,varieties ,,of ,,the ,,garden ,,vegetables ,,xiii ,,insects ,,and ,,disease1 ,,and ,,methods ,,of ,,fighting ,,them ,,xiv ,,harvesting ,,and ,,storing ,,part ,,three--,,fruits ,,xv ,,the ,,varieties ,,of ,,pome ,,and ,,stone ,,fruits ,,xvi ,,planting2 ,,cultivation2 ,,filler ,,crops ,,xvii ,,pruning1 ,,spraying1 ,,harvesting ,,xviii ,,berries ,,and ,,small ,,fruits ,,xix ,a ,,calendar ,,of ,,operations ,,xx ,,conclusion ,,chapter ,i ,,introduction ,formerly it was the custom for gardeners to invest their labors and achievements with a mystery and secrecy which might well have discouraged any amateur from trespassing upon such difficult ground4 ,trade secrets in either flower or vegetable growing were acquired by the apprentice only through practice and observation1 and in turn jealously guarded by him until passed on to some younger brother in the profession4 ,every garden operation was made to seem a wonderful and difficult undertaking4 ,now1 all that has changed4 ,in fact the pendulum has swung1 as it usually does1 to the other extreme4 ,often1 if you are a beginner1 you have been flatteringly told in print that you could from the beginning do just as well as the experienced gardener4 ,my garden friend1 it cannot1 as a usual thing1 be done4 ,of course1 it may happen and sometimes does4 ,you might1 being a trusting lamb1 go down into ,wall ,street with #aj1jjj ,ed4 ,note3 all monetary values throughout the book are #aiaa values and make a fortune4 ,you know that you would not be likely to2 the chances are very much against you4 ,this garden business is a matter of common sense2 and the man1 or the woman1 who has learned by experience how to do a thing1 whether it is cornering the market or growing cabbages1 naturally does it better than the one who has not4 ,do not expect the impossible4 ,if you do1 read a poultry advertisement and go into the hen business instead of trying to garden4 ,i have grown pumpkins that necessitated the tearing down of the fence in order to get them out of the lot1 and sometimes1 though not frequently1 have had to use the axe to cut through a stalk of asparagus1 but ,i never made #ag1jjj in ten months from an eggplant in a city back-yard4 ,no1 if you are going to take up gardening1 you will have to work1 and you will have a great many disappointments4 ,all that ,i1 or anyone else1 could put between the two covers of a book will not make a gardener of you4 ,it must be learned through the fingers1 and back1 too1 as well as from the printed page4 ,but1 after all1 the greatest reward for your efforts will be the work itself2 and unless you love the work1 or have a feeling that you will love it1 probably the best way for you1 is to stick to the grocer for your garden4 ,most things1 in the course of development1 change from the simple to the complex4 ,the art of gardening has in many ways been an exception to the rule4 ,the methods of culture used for many crops are more simple than those in vogue a generation ago4 ,the last fifty years has seen also a tremendous advance in the varieties of vegetables1 and the strange thing is that in many instances the new and better sorts are more easily and quickly grown than those they have replaced4 ,the new lima beans are an instance of what is meant4 ,while limas have always been appreciated as one of the most delicious of vegetables1 in many sections they could never be successfully grown1 because of their aversion to dampness and cold1 and of the long season required to mature them4 ,the newer sorts are not only larger and better1 but hardier and earlier2 and the bush forms have made them still more generally available4 ,knowledge on the subject of gardening is also more widely diffused than ever before1 and the science of photography has helped wonderfully in telling the newcomer how to do things4 ,it has also lent an impetus and furnished an inspiration which words alone could never have done4 ,if one were to attempt to read all the gardening instructions and suggestions being published1 he would have no time left to practice gardening at all4 ,why then1 the reader may ask at this point1 another garden book8 ,it is a pertinent question1 and it is right that an answer be expected in advance4 ,the reason1 then1 is this3 while there are garden books in plenty1 most of them pay more attention to the content than to the form in which it is laid before the prospective gardener4 ,the material is often presented as an accumulation of detail1 instead of by a systematic and constructive plan which will take the reader step by step through the work to be done1 and make clear constantly both the principles and the practice of garden making and management1 and at the same time avoid every digression unnecessary from the practical point of view4 ,other books again1 are either so elementary as to be of little use where gardening is done without gloves1 or too elaborate1 however accurate and worthy in other respects1 for an every-day working manual4 ,the author feels1 therefore1 that there is a distinct field for the present book4 ,and1 while ,i still have the reader by the introduction buttonhole1 ,i want to make a suggestion or two about using a book like this4 ,do not1 on the one hand1 read it through and then put it away with the dictionary and the family ,bible1 and trust to memory for the instruction it may give2 do not1 on the other hand1 wait until you think it is time to plant a thing1 and then go and look it up4 ,for instance1 do not1 about the middle of ,may1 begin investigating how many onion seeds to put in a hill2 you will find out that they should have been put in1 in drills1 six weeks before4 ,read the whole book through carefully at your first opportunity1 make a list of the things you should do for your own vegetable garden1 and put opposite them the proper dates for your own vicinity4 ,keep this available1 as a working guide1 and refer to special matters as you get to them4 ,do not feel discouraged that you cannot be promised immediate success at the start4 ,i know from personal experience and from the experience of others that book-gardening is a practical thing4 ,if you do your work carefully and thoroughly1 you may be confident that a very great measure of success will reward the efforts of your first garden season4 ,and ,i know too1 that you will find it the most entrancing game you ever played4 ,good luck to you6 ,,chapter ,,ii ,,why ,,you ,,should ,,garden ,there are more reasons to-day than ever before why the owner of a small place should have his1 or her1 own vegetable garden4 ,the days of home weaving1 home cheese-making1 home meat-packing1 are gone4 ,with a thousand and one other things that used to be made or done at home1 they have left the fireside and followed the factory chimney4 ,these things could be turned over to machinery4 ,the growing of vegetables cannot be so disposed of4 ,garden tools have been improved1 but they are still the same old one-man affairs--doing one thing1 one row at a time4 ,labor is still the big factor--and that1 taken in combination with the cost of transporting and handling such perishable stuff as garden produce1 explains why the home gardener can grow his own vegetables at less expense than he can buy them4 ,that is a good fact to remember4 ,but after all1 ,i doubt if most of us will look at the matter only after consulting the columns of the household ledger4 ,the big thing1 the salient feature of home gardening is not that we may get our vegetables ten per cent4 cheaper1 but that we can have them one hundred per cent4 better4 ,even the long-keeping sorts1 like squash1 potatoes and onions1 are very perceptibly more delicious right from the home garden1 fresh from the vines or the ground2 but when it comes to peas1 and corn1 and lettuce1--well1 there is absolutely nothing to compare with the home garden ones1 gathered fresh1 in the early slanting sunlight1 still gemmed with dew1 still crisp and tender and juicy1 ready to carry every atom of savory quality1 without loss1 to the dining table4 ,stale1 flat and unprofitable indeed1 after these have once been tasted1 seem the limp1 travel-weary1 dusty things that are jounced around to us in the butcher's cart and the grocery wagon4 ,it is not in price alone that home gardening pays4 ,there is another point3 the market gardener has to grow the things that give the biggest yield4 ,he has to sacrifice quality to quantity4 ,you do not4 ,one cannot buy ,golden ,bantam corn1 or ,mignonette lettuce1 or ,gradus peas in most markets4 ,they are top quality1 but they do not fill the market crate enough times to the row to pay the commercial grower4 ,if you cannot afford to keep a professional gardener there is only one way to have the best vegetables--grow your own6 ,and this brings us to the third1 and what may be the most important reason why you should garden4 ,it is the cheapest1 healthiest1 keenest pleasure there is4 ,give me a sunny garden patch in the golden springtime1 when the trees are picking out their new gowns1 in all the various self-colored delicate grays and greens--strange how beautiful they are1 in the same old unchanging styles1 isn't it8--give me seeds to watch as they find the light1 plants to tend as they take hold in the fine1 loose1 rich soil1 and you may have the other sports4 ,and when you have grown tired of their monotony1 come back in summer to even the smallest garden1 and you will find in it1 every day1 a new problem to be solved1 a new campaign to be carried out1 a new victory to win4 ,better food1 better health1 better living--all these the home garden offers you in abundance4 ,and the price is only the price of every worth-while thing--honest1 cheerful patient work4 ,but enough for now of the dream garden4 ,put down your book4 ,put on your old togs1 light your pipe--some kind-hearted humanitarian should devise for women such a kindly and comforting vice as smoking--and let's go outdoors and look the place over1 and pick out the best spot for that garden-patch of yours4 ,,chapter ,,iii ,,requisites ,,of ,,the ,,home ,,vegetable ,,garden ,in deciding upon the site for the home vegetable garden it is well to dispose once and for all of the old idea that the garden patch must be an ugly spot in the home surroundings4 ,if thoughtfully planned1 carefully planted and thoroughly cared for1 it may be made a beautiful and harmonious feature of the general scheme1 lending a touch of comfortable homeliness that no shrubs1 borders1 or beds can ever produce4 ,with this fact in mind we will not feel restricted to any part of the premises merely because it is out of sight behind the barn or garage4 ,in the average moderate-sized place there will not be much choice as to land4 ,it will be necessary to take what is to be had and then do the very best that can be done with it4 ,but there will probably be a good deal of choice as to1 first1 exposure1 and second1 convenience4 ,other things being equal1 select a spot near at hand1 easy of access4 ,it may seem that a difference of only a few hundred yards will mean nothing1 but if one is depending largely upon spare moments for working in and for watching the garden--and in the growing of many vegetables the latter is almost as important as the former--this matter of convenient access will be of much greater importance than is likely to be at first recognized4 ,not until you have had to make a dozen time-wasting trips for forgotten seeds or tools1 or gotten your feet soaking wet by going out through the dew-drenched grass1 will you realize fully what this may mean4 ,,exposure ,but the thing of first importance to consider in picking out the spot that is to yield you happiness and delicious vegetables all summer1 or even for many years1 is the exposure4 ,pick out the earliest spot you can find--a plot sloping a little to the south or east1 that seems to catch sunshine early and hold it late1 and that seems to be out of the direct path of the chilling north and northeast winds4 ,if a building1 or even an old fence1 protects it from this direction1 your garden will be helped along wonderfully1 for an early start is a great big factor toward success4 ,if it is not already protected1 a board fence1 or a hedge of some low-growing shrubs or young evergreens1 will add very greatly to its usefulness4 ,the importance of having such a protection or shelter is altogether underestimated by the amateur4 ,,the ,,soil ,the chances are that you will not find a spot of ideal garden soil ready for use anywhere upon your place4 ,but all except the very worst of soils can be brought up to a very high degree of productiveness-- especially such small areas as home vegetable gardens require4 ,large tracts of soil that are almost pure sand1 and others so heavy and mucky that for centuries they lay uncultivated1 have frequently been brought1 in the course of only a few years1 to where they yield annually tremendous crops on a commercial basis4 ,so do not be discouraged about your soil4 ,proper treatment of it is much more important1 and a garden- patch of average run-down1--or never-brought-up soil--will produce much more for the energetic and careful gardener than the richest spot will grow under average methods of cultivation4 ,the ideal garden soil is a rich1 sandy loam4 ,and the fact cannot be overemphasized that such soils usually are made1 not found4 ,let us analyze that description a bit1 for right here we come to the first of the four all-important factors of gardening--food4 ,the others are cultivation1 moisture and temperature4 ,rich in the gardener's vocabulary means full of plant food2 more than that--and this is a point of vital importance--it means full of plant food ready to be used at once1 all prepared and spread out on the garden table1 or rather in it1 where growing things can at once make use of it2 or what we term1 in one word1 available plant food4 ,practically no soils in long- inhabited communities remain naturally rich enough to produce big crops4 ,they are made rich1 or kept rich1 in two ways2 first1 by cultivation1 which helps to change the raw plant food stored in the soil into available forms2 and second1 by manuring or adding plant food to the soil from outside sources4 ,sandy in the sense here used1 means a soil containing enough particles of sand so that water will pass through it without leaving it pasty and sticky a few days after a rain2 light enough1 as it is called1 so that a handful1 under ordinary conditions1 will crumble and fall apart readily after being pressed in the hand4 ,it is not necessary that the soil be sandy in appearance1 but it should be friable4 ,loam3 a rich1 friable soil1 says ,webster4 ,that hardly covers it1 but it does describe it4 ,it is soil in which the sand and clay are in proper proportions1 so that neither greatly predominate1 and usually dark in color1 from cultivation and enrichment4 ,such a soil1 even to the untrained eye1 just naturally looks as if it would grow things4 ,it is remarkable how quickly the whole physical appearance of a piece of well cultivated ground will change4 ,an instance came under my notice last fall in one of my fields1 where a strip containing an acre had been two years in onions1 and a little piece jutting off from the middle of this had been prepared for them just one season4 ,the rest had not received any extra manuring or cultivation4 ,when the field was plowed up in the fall1 all three sections were as distinctly noticeable as though separated by a fence4 ,and ,i know that next spring's crop of rye1 before it is plowed under1 will show the lines of demarcation just as plainly4 ,this1 then1 will give you an idea of a good garden soil4 ,perhaps in yours there will be too much sand1 or too much clay4 ,that will be a disadvantage1 but one which energy and perseverance will soon overcome to a great extent--by what methods may be learned in ,chapter ,,viii4 ,,drainage ,there is1 however1 one other thing you must look out for in selecting your garden site1 and that is drainage4 ,dig down eight or twelve inches after you have picked out a favorable spot1 and examine the sub-soil4 ,this is the second strata1 usually of different texture and color from the rich surface soil1 and harder than it4 ,if you find a sandy or gravelly bed1 no matter how yellow and poor it looks1 you have chosen the right spot4 ,but if it be a stiff1 heavy clay1 especially a blue clay1 you will have either to drain it or be content with a very late garden--that is1 unless you are at the top of a knoll or on a slope4 ,chapter ,,vii contains further suggestions in regard to this problem4 ,,soil ,,antecedents ,there was a further reason for1 mentioning that strip of onion ground4 ,it is a very practical illustration of what last year's handling of the soil means to this year's garden4 ,if you can pick out a spot1 even if it is not the most desirable in other ways1 that has been well enriched or cultivated for a year or two previous1 take that for this year's garden4 ,and in the meantime have the spot on which you intend to make your permanent vegetable garden thoroughly fitted1 and grow there this year a crop of potatoes or sweet corn1 as suggested in ,chapter ,,ix4 ,then next year you will have conditions just right to give your vegetables a great start4 ,,other ,,considerations ,there are other things of minor importance but worth considering1 such as the shape of your garden plot1 for instance4 ,the more nearly rectangular1 the more convenient it will be to work and the more easily kept clean and neat4 ,have it large enough1 or at least open on two ends1 so that a horse can be used in plowing and harrowing4 ,and if by any means you can have it within reach of an adequate supply of water1 that will be a tremendous help in seasons of protracted drought4 ,then again1 if you have ground enough1 lay off two plots so that you can take advantage of the practice of rotation1 alternating grass1 potatoes or corn with the vegetable garden4 ,of course it is possible to practice crop rotation to some extent within the limits of even the small vegetable garden1 but it will be much better1 if possible1 to rotate the entire garden-patch4 ,all these things1 then1 one has to keep in mind in picking the spot best suited for the home vegetable garden4 ,it should be1 if possible1 of convenient access2 it should have a warm exposure and be well enriched1 well worked-up soil1 not too light nor too heavy1 and by all means well drained4 ,if it has been thoroughly cultivated for a year or two previous1 so much the better4 ,if it is near a supply of water1 so situated that it can be at least plowed and harrowed with a horse1 and large enough to allow the garden proper to be shifted every other year or two1 still more the better4 ,fill all of these requirements that you can1 and then by taking full advantage of the advantages you have1 you can discount the disadvantages4 ,after all it is careful1 persistent work1 more than natural advantages1 that will tell the story2 and a good garden does not grow--it is made4 ,,chapter ,,iv ,,the ,,planting ,,plan ,having selected the garden spot1 the next consideration1 naturally1 is what shall be planted in it4 ,the old way was to get a few seed catalogues1 pick out a list of the vegetables most enthusiastically described by the 7wholly disinterested7 seedsman1 and then1 when the time came1 to put them in at one or two plantings1 and sowing each kind as far as the seed would go4 ,there is a better way--a way to make the garden produce more1 to yield things when you want them1 and in the proper proportions4 ,all these advantages1 you may suppose1 must mean more work4 ,on the contrary1 however1 the new way makes very much less work and makes results a hundred per cent4 more certain4 ,it is not necessary even that more thought be put upon the garden1 but forethought there must be4 ,forethought1 however1 is much more satisfactory than hind-thought4 ,in the new way of gardening there are four great helps1 four things that will be of great assistance to the experienced gardener1 and that are indispensable to the success of the beginner4 ,they are the ,planting ,plan1 the ,planting ,table1 the ,check ,list and the ,garden ,record4 ,do not become discouraged at the formidable sound of that paragraph and decide that after all you do not want to fuss so much over your garden2 that you are doing it for the fun of the thing anyway1 and such intricate systems will not be worth bothering with4 ,the purpose of those four garden helps is simply to make your work less and your returns more4 ,you might just as well refuse to use a wheel hoe because the trowel was good enough for your grandmother's garden1 as to refuse to take advantage of the modern garden methods described in this chapter4 ,without using them to some extent1 or in some modified form1 you can never know just what you are doing with your garden or what improvements to make next year4 ,of course1 each of the plans or lists suggested here is only one of many possible combinations4 ,you should be able to find1 or better still to construct1 similar ones better suited to your individual taste1 need and opportunity4 ,that1 however1 does not lessen the necessity of using some such system4 ,it is just as necessary an aid to the maximum efficiency in gardening as are modern tools4 ,do not fear that you will waste time on the planting plan4 ,master it and use it1 for only so can you make your garden time count for most in producing results4 ,in the average small garden there is a very large percentage of waste--for two weeks1 more string beans than can be eaten or given away2 and then1 for a month1 none at all1 for instance4 ,you should determine ahead as nearly as possible how much of each vegetable your table will require and then try to grow enough of each for a continuous supply1 and no more4 ,it is just this that the planting plan enables you to do4 ,i shall describe1 as briefly as possible1 forms of the planting plan1 planting table1 check list and record1 which ,i have found it convenient to use4 ,to make the ,planting ,plan take a sheet of white paper and a ruler and mark off a space the shape of your garden--which should be rectangular if possible--using a scale of one-quarter or one-eighth inch to the foot4 ,rows fifty feet long will be found a convenient length for the average home garden4 ,in a garden where many varieties of things are grown it will be best to run the rows the short way of the piece4 ,we will take a fifty-foot row for the purpose of illustration1 though of course it can readily be changed in proportion where rows of that length can not conveniently be made4 ,in a very small garden it will be better to make the row1 say1 twenty-five feet long1 the aim being always to keep the row a unit and have as few broken ones as possible1 and still not to have to plant more of any one thing than will be needed4 ,in assigning space for the various vegetables several things should be kept in mind in order to facilitate planting1 replanting and cultivating the garden4 ,these can most quickly be realized by a glance at the plan illustrated herewith4 ,you will notice that crops that remain several years--rhubarb and asparagus--are kept at one end4 ,next come such as will remain a whole season--parsnips1 carrots1 onions and the like4 ,and finally those that will be used for a succession of crops--peas1 lettuce1 spinach4 ,moreover1 tall-growing crops1 like pole beans1 are kept to the north of lower ones4 ,in the plan illustrated the space given to each variety is allotted according to the proportion in which they are ordinarily used4 ,if it happens that you have a special weakness for peas1 or your mother-in-law an aversion to peppers1 keep these tastes and similar ones in mind when laying out your planting plan4 ,do not leave the planning of your garden until you are ready to put the seeds in the ground and then do it all in a rush4 ,do it in ,january1 as soon as you have received the new year's catalogues and when you have time to study over them and look up your record of the previous year4 ,every hour spent on the plan will mean several hours saved in the garden4 ,the ,planting ,table is the next important system in the business of gardening1 especially for the beginner4 ,in it one can see at a glance all the details of the particular treatment each vegetable requires-- when to sow1 how deep1 how far apart the rows should be1 etc4 ,i remember how many trips from garden to house to hunt through catalogues for just such information ,i made in my first two seasons' gardening4 ,how much time1 just at the very busiest season of the whole year1 such a table would have saved6 ---------------------------------------- -------------- #j #e #aj #ae #bj #be #cj #ce #dj #de #ej ---------------------------------------- ------------- #j ,,pa ,,rhubarb-#b ,,rs ,,seed ,,bed ,,le88 #e ,y ---------------------------------------- --------- ,,asparagus-#b #aj------------------------------------- ------------ ,,pole ,,beans-#b #ae------------------------------------- ------------ ,,tomatoes-#a ---------------------------------------- --------- #bj ,,cabbage ,,early-#a ,,late -#a ---------------------------------------- --------- #be ,,broccoli-#a ,,brussels ,,sprouts-#a ,,peppers-#a ,,egg ,,plant-#a ---------------------------------------- --------- #cj ,,celery-#a ---------------------------------------- --------- #ce ,,onions-#e-a_/b ,,leeks-#a_/b ---------------------------------------- --------- #dj ,,carrots-#d ---------------------------------------- --------- #de ,,beets-#d ---------------------------------------- --------- #ej ,,turnips-#a-a_/b ,,rutabaga-#a_/b ,,parsnips-#a ---------------------------------------- --------- #ee #fj ,,corn-#d #fe ---------------------------------------- --------- #gj #ge ,,peas-#d #hj------------------------------------- ------------ ,,bush ,,beans-#c #he------------------------------------- ------------ ,,lettuce-#b #ij ,,onion ,,sets-#a ,,endive-#a ---------------------------------------- --------- ,,muskmelons-#f ,,hills ,,cucumbers-#g ,,hills #ie------------------------------------- ------------ ,,pumpkins-#d;,h ,,watermelons-#e;,h #ajj ---------------------------------------- --------- ,,summer ,,squash1 ,,bush-#h;,h #aje ,,winter ,,squash-#e;,h ,,summer ,,squash1 ,,vine-#e;,h #aaj------------------------------------ ------------- ,a typical ,planting ,plan4 ,the scale measurements at the left and top indicate the length and distance apart of rows4 ,,ed4 ,distances are approximate1 due to typing line constraints4 ,the ,planting ,table prepared for one's own use should show1 besides the information given1 the varieties of each vegetable which experience has proved best adapted to one's own needs4 ,the table shown herewith gives such a list2 varieties which are for the most part standard favorites and all of which1 with me1 have proven reliable1 productive and of good quality4 ,other good sorts will be found described in ,part ,two4 ,such a table should be mounted on cardboard and kept where it may readily be referred to at planting time4 ,the ,check ,list is the counterpart of the planting table1 so arranged that its use will prevent anything from being overlooked or left until too late4 ,prepare it ahead1 some time in ,january1 when you have time to think of everything4 ,make it up from your planting table and from the previous year's record4 ,from this list it will be well to put down on a sheet of paper the things to be done each month 7or week7 and cross them off as they are attended to4 ,without some such system it is almost a certainty that you will overlook some important things4 ,the ,garden ,record is no less important4 ,it may be kept in the simplest sort of way1 but be sure to keep it4 ,a large piece of paper ruled as follows1 for instance1 will require only a few minutes' attention each week and yet will prove of the greatest assistance in planning the garden next season4 ,,vegetable ,,garden ,,record--#aiaj ---------------------------------------- -------------------------- ,,vegetable ,,variety ,,put ,,in ,,ready ,,notes ---------------------------------------- -------------------------- ,beans1 dwarf ,red ,valentine ,may #aj ,july #f ,not best quality4 ,try other earlies ,golden ,wax ,may #ae ,july #bb ,rusted4 ,spray next year ,bean1 pole ,old ,homestead ,may #af ,july #bf ,too many4 #f poles next year ,early ,leviathan ,may #be ,aug4 #ai ,good4 ,dry4 ,bean1 lima ,fordhook ,may #ae ,rotted4 ,try ,may #be ,beet ,egyptian ,apr4 #aj ,june #ab ,roots sprangled ,eclipse ,apr4 #aj ,june #ad ,better quality ,cabbage ,wakefield ,apr4 #i ,june #bj ,injured by worms4 ,hellebore next year ,etc41 etc4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------- ,the above shows how such a record will be kept4 ,of course1 only the first column is written in ahead4 ,i want to emphasize in passing1 however1 the importance of putting down your data on the day you plant1 or harvest1 or notice anything worth recording4 ,if you let it go until tomorrow it is very apt to be lacking next year4 ,try these four short-cuts to success1 even if you have had a garden before4 ,they will make a big difference in your garden2 less work and greater results4 ,,check ,,list ,jan4 #ast--,send for catalogues4 ,make planting plan and table4 ,order seeds4 ,feb4 #ast--,inside3 cabbage1 cauliflower1 first sowing4 ,onions for plants4 ,feb4 #aeth--,inside3 lettuce1 cabbage1 cauliflower1 ,brussels sprouts1 beets4 ,march #ast--,inside3 lettuce1 celery1 tomato 7early74 ,march #aeth--,inside3 lettuce1 tomato 7main71 eggplant1 pepper1 lima beans1 cucumber1 squash2 sprout potatoes in sand4 ,april #ast--,inside3 cauliflower 7on sods71 muskmelon1 watermelon1 corn4 ,outside3 7seed-bed7 celery1 cabbage1 lettuce4 ,onions1 carrots1 smooth peas1 spinach1 beets1 chard1 parsnip1 turnip1 radish4 ,lettuce1 cabbage 7plants74 ,may #ast--,beans1 corn1 spinach1 lettuce1 radish4 ,may #aeth--,beans1 limas1 muskmelon1 watermelon1 summer squash1 peas1 potatoes1 lettuce1 radish1 tomato 7early71 corn1 limas1 melon1 cucumber and squash 7plants74 ,pole-lima1 beets1 corn1 kale1 winter squash1 pumpkin1 lettuce1 radish4 ,june #ast--,beans1 carrots1 corn1 cucumber1 peas1 summer spinach1 summer lettuce1 radish1 egg-plant1 pepper1 tomato 7main plants74 ,june #aeth--,beans1 corn1 peas1 turnip1 summer lettuce1 radish1 late cabbage1 and tomato plants4 ,july #ast--,beans1 endive1 kale1 lettuce1 radish1 winter cabbage1 cauliflower1 ,brussels sprouts and celery plants4 ,july #aeth--,beans1 early corn1 early peas1 lettuce1 radish4 ,aug4 #ast--,early peas1 lettuce1 radish4 ,aug4 #aeth--,early peas1 lettuce1 radish in seed-bed1 forcing lettuce for fall in frames4 ,sept4 #ast--,lettuce1 radish1 spinach and onions for wintering over4 ,,note4--,this list is for planting only 7the dates are approximate3 see note ,i at the end of the chapter74 ,spraying and other garden operations may also be included in such a list4 ,see ,calendar of ,operations at end of book4 ,,planting ,,table ,,depth ,,to -,,distance ,,apart- ,,vegetable ,,plant#a ,,sow--,i,ns4 ,,seeds#b ,,rows ,i4 ,,crops ,,remaining ,,entire ,,season ,asparagus1 seed ,april-,may #a #b-d in4 #ae in4 ,asparagus1 plants ,april #d #a ft4 #c ft4 ,bean1 pole ,may #ae-;,june #aj #b #c ft4 #c ft4 ,bean1 lima ,may #bj-;,june #aj #b #c ft4 #c ft4 ,beet1 late ,april-,august #b #c-d in4 #ae in4 ,carrot1 late ,may-,july #a_/b-a #b-c in4 #ae in4 ,corn1 late ,may #bj-;,july #aj #b #c ft4 #d ft4 ,cucumber ,may #aj-;,july #ae #a #d ft4 #d ft4 ,egg-plant1 plants ,june #a-bj 44 #b ft4 #cj in4 ,leek ,april 44 #b-d in4 #ae in4 ,melon1 musk ,may #ae-;,june #ae #a #d ft4 #d ft4 ,melon1 water ,may #ae-;,june #ae #a #f-h ft4 #f-h ft4 ,onion ,april #a_/b-a #b-d in4 #ae in4 ,okra ,may #ae-;,june #ae #a_/b-a #b ft4 #c ft4 ,parsley#d ,april-,may #a_/b #d-f in4 #a ft4 ,parsnip ,april #a_/b-a #c-e in4 #ah in4 ,pepper1 seed ,june #ast #a_/b #c-f in4 #ae in4 ,pepper1 plants ,june #a-bj 44 #b ft4 #cj in4 ,potatoes1 main ,april #ae-;,june #bj #d-f #ac in4 #cj in4 ,pumpkins ,may #a-;,june #bj #a-b #f-h ft4 #f-h ft4 ,rhubarb1 plants ,april 44 #b-c ft4 #c ft4 ,salsify ,april-,may #a #c-f in4 #ah in4 ,squash1 summer ,may #ae-;,july #a #a-b #d ft4 #d ft4 ,squash1 winter ,may #ae-;,june #bj #a-b #f-h ft4 #f-h ft4 ,tomato1 seed ,june #a_/b #c-d in4 #ae in4 ,tomato1 plants ,may #ae-;,july #bj 44 #c ft4 #c ft4 ,,note4--,the index reference numbers refer to notes at end of chapter4 ---------------------------------------- ----------------------------- ,,seed ,,for #ej ,,ft4 ,,vegetable ,,row ,,varieties ---------------------------------------- ----------------------------- ,asparagus1 seed #a oz4 ,palmetto1 ,giant ,argenteuil1 ,barr's ,mammoth ,asparagus1 plants #ej ,palmetto1 ,giant ,argenteuil1 ,barr's ,mammoth ,bean1 pole #a_/b pt4 ,kentucky ,wonder1 ,golden1 ,cluster1 ,burger's ,stringless ,bean1 lima #a_/b pt4 ,early ,leviathan1 ,giant ,podded1 ,burpee ,improved ,beet1 late #a oz4 ,crimson ,globe ,carrot1 late #a_/b oz4 ,danver's ,half-long1 ,ox-heart1 ,chantenay ,corn1 late #a_/b pt4 ,seymour's ,sweet ,orange1 ,white ,evergreen1 ,country ,gentleman ,cucumber #a_/b oz4 ,early ,white ,spine1 ,fordhook ,famous1 ,davis ,perfect ,egg-plant1 plants #be ,black ,beauty1 ,n4,y4 ,purple ,leek #a_/b oz4 ,american ,flag ,melon1 musk #a_/b oz4 ,netted ,gem1 ,emerald ,gem1 ,hoodoo ,melon1 water #a_/d oz4 ,cole's ,early ,sweetheart1 ,halbert ,honey ,onion #a_/b oz4 ,prizetaker1 ,danver's ,globe1 ,ailsa ,craig1 ,southport ,red ,globe1 ,mammoth ,silverskin 7white7 ,okra #a_/b oz4 ,perfected ,perkins1 ,white ,velvet ,parsley #a_/b oz4 ,emerald ,parsnip #a_/d oz4 ,hollow ,crowned 7,improved7 ,pepper1 seed #a_/b oz4 ,ruby ,king1 ,chinese ,giant ,pepper1 plants #be ,ruby ,king1 ,chinese ,giant ,potatoes1 main #a_/b pk4 ,irish ,cobbler1 ,green ,mountain1 ,uncle ,sam 7,norton ,beauty1 ,norwood1 early7 ,pumpkins #a_/d oz4 ,large ,cheese1 ,quaker ,pie ,rhubarb1 plants #be ,myatt's ,victoria ,salsify #c_/d oz4 ,mammoth ,sandwich ,squash1 summer #a_/d oz4 ,white ,bush1 ,delicata1 ,fordhook1 ,vegetable ,marrow ,squash1 winter #a_/d oz4 ,hubbard1 ,delicious ,tomato1 seed #a_/b oz4 ,earliana1 ,chalk's ,jewel1 ,matchless1 ,dwarf ,giant ,tomato1 plants #bj ,earliana1 ,chalk's ,jewel1 ,matchless1 ,dwarf ,giant ---------------------------------------- ----------------------------- ,,planting ,,table ,,depth ,,to -,,distance ,,apart- ,,vegetable ,,plant#a ,,sow--,i,ns4 ,,seeds#c ,,rows ,,ii4 ,,crops ,,for ,,succession ,,plantings ,bean1 dwarf ,may #e-;,aug #ae #b #b-d in4 #a-a_/b-b ft4 ,kohlrabi#d ,april-,july #a_/b - #a #f-ab in4 #a-a_/b-b ft4 ,lettuce#d ,april-,august #a_/b #a ft4 #a-a-a_/b ft4 ,peas1 smooth ,april #a-;,aug #a #b-c #b-d in4 #c ft4 ,peas1 wrinkled ,april #aj-;,july #ae #b-c #b-d in4 #c-d ft4 ,radish ,april #a-,sept #a #a_/b #b-c in4 #a ft4 ,spinach ,april-,sept #ae #a #c-e in4 #ah in4 ,turnip ,april-,sept #a_/b-a #d-f in4 #ae in4 ,,iii4 ,,crops ,,to ,,be ,,followed ,,by ,,others ,beet1 early ,april-,june #b #c-d in4 #ae in4 ,broccoli1 early#d ,april #a_/b-a #a-a_/b ft4 #b ft4 ,borecole#d ,april #a_/b-a #b ft4 #b-a_/b ft4 ,brussels sprouts#d ,april #a_/b-a #a-a_/b ft4 #b ft4 ,cabbage1 early#d ,april #a_/b-a #a-a_/b ft4 #b ft4 ,carrot ,april #a_/b-a #b-c in4 #ae in4 ,cauliflower#d ,april #a_/b-a #a-a_/b ft4 #b ft4 ,com1 early ,may #aj-bj #b #c ft4 #c-d ft4 ,onion sets ,april-,may #ae #a-b #b-d in4 #ae in4 ,peas ,april #a-,may #a #b #b-d in4 #c ft4 ,crops in ,sec4 ,,ii4 ,,iv4 ,,crops ,,that ,,may ,,follow ,,others ,beet1 late ,july-,august #b #c-d in4 #ae in4 ,borecole ,may-,june#b #a_/b-a #b ft4 #b-a_/b ft4 ,broccoli ,may-,june#b #a_/b-a #b ft4 #b-a_/b ft4 ,brussels sprouts ,may-,june#b #a_/b-a #a-a_/b ft4 #b-a_/b ft4 ,cabbage late ,may-,june#b #a_/b-a #b-a_/b ft4 #b-a_/b ft4 ,cauliflower ,may-,june#b #a_/b-a #b ft4 #b-a_/b ft4 ,celery1 seed ,april #a_/b #a-b in4 #a ft4 ,celery1 plant ,july #a-;,aug #a 44 #f in4 #c-d ft4 ,endive#d ,april-,august #a_/b #a ft4 #a ft4 ,peas1 late ,may #ae-;,aug #a #b-c #b-d in4 #d ft4 ,crops in ,sec4 ,,ii4 ,,ii4 ,,crops ,,for ,,succession ,,plantings ---------------------------------------- ----------------------------- ,,seed ,,for #ej ,,ft4 ,,vegetable ,,row ,,varieties ---------------------------------------- ----------------------------- ,bean1 dwarf #a pt4 ,red ,valentine ,burpee's ,greenpod1 ,improved ,refugee1 ,brittle ,wax1 ,rust-proof ,golden ,wax1 ,burpee's ,white ,wax ,kohlrabi #a_/d oz ,white ,vienna ,lettuce #ej ,mignonette1 ,grand ,rapids1 ,may ,king1 ,big ,boston1 ,new ,york1 ,deacon1 ,cos1 ,paris ,white ,peas1 smooth #a pt ,american ,wonder ,peas1 wrinkled #a pt ,gradus1 ,boston ,unrivaled1 ,quite ,content ,radish #a_/b oz4 ,rapid ,red1 ,crimson ,globe1 ,chinese ,spinach #a_/b oz4 ,swiss ,chard ,beet1 ,long ,season1 ,victoria ,turnip #a_/c oz4 ,white ,milan1 ,petrowski1 ,golden ,ball ,,iii4 ,,crops ,,to ,,be ,,followed ,,by ,,others ,beet1 early #a oz4 ,edmund's ,early1 ,early ,model ,broccoli1 early #ce ,early ,white ,french ,borecole #be ,dwarf ,scotch ,curled ,brussels sprouts #ce ,dalkeith1 ,danish ,prize ,cabbage1 early #ce ,wakefield1 ,glory of ,enkhuisen1 ,early ,summer1 ,succession1 ,savoy ,carrot #a_/b oz4 ,golden ,ball1 ,early ,scarlet ,horn ,cauliflower #ce ,burpee's ,best ,early1 ,snowball1 ,sea-foam ,dry ,weather ,corn1 early #a_/c pt4 ,golden ,bantam1 ,peep o' ,day1 ,cory ,onion sets #b pt4 ,peas #a pt4 ,crops in ,sec4 ,,ii4 ,,iv4 ,,crops ,,that ,,may ,,follow ,,others ,beet1 late #a oz4 ,crimson ,globe ,borecole #be ,dwarf ,scotch ,curled ,broccoli #be ,early ,white ,french ,brussels sprouts #ce ,dalkeith1 ,danish ,prize ,cabbage1 late #be ,succession1 ,danish ,ballhead ,drumhead ,cauliflower #be ,as above ,savoy1 ,mammoth ,rock 7red7 ,celery1 seed #a oz4 ,white ,plume1 ,golden ,self-blanching1 ,winter ,queen ,celery1 plant #ajj ,white ,plume1 ,golden ,self-blanching1 ,winter ,queen ,endive #a_/b oz4 ,broad-,leaved ,batavian1 ,giant ,fringed ,peas1 late #a pt4 ,gradus ,crops in ,sec4 ,,ii4 ,,reference ,,notes ,,from ,,the ,,tables #a ,in the vicinity of ,new ,york ,city4 ,each #ajj miles north or south will make a difference of #e to #g days later or earlier4 #b ,this is for sowing the seed4 ,it will take three to six weeks before plants are ready4 ,hence the advantage of using the seed-bed4 ,for instance1 you can start your late cabbage about ,june #aeth1 to follow the first crop of peas1 which should be cleared off by the #ajth of ,july4 #c ,distances given are those at which the growing plants should stand1 after thinning4 ,seed in drills should be sown several times as thick4 #d ,best started in seed-bed1 and afterward transplanted2 but may be sown when wanted and afterward thinned to the best plants4 ,,chapter ,v ,,implements ,,and ,,their ,,uses ,it may seem to the reader that it is all very well to make a garden with a pencil1 but that the work of transferring it to the soil must be quite another problem and one entailing so much work that he will leave it to the professional market gardener4 ,he possibly pictures to himself some bent-kneed and stoop-shouldered man with the hoe1 and decides that after all there is too much work in the garden game4 ,what a revelation would be in store for him if he could witness one day's operations in a modern market garden6 ,very likely indeed not a hoe would be seen during the entire visit4 ,modern implements1 within less than a generation1 have revolutionized gardening4 ,this is true of the small garden as certainly as of the large one3 in fact1 in proportion ,i am not sure but that it is more so--because of the second wonderful thing about modern garden tools1 that is1 the low prices at which they can be bought1 considering the enormous percentage of labor saved in accomplishing results4 ,there is nothing in the way of expense to prevent even the most modest gardener acquiring1 during a few years1 by the judicious expenditure of but a few dollars annually1 a very complete outfit of tools that will handsomely repay their cost4 ,while some garden tools have been improved and developed out of all resemblance to their original forms1 others have changed little in generations1 and in probability will remain ever with us4 ,there is a thing or two to say about even the simplest of them1 however1-- especially to anyone not familiar with their uses4 ,there are tools for use in every phase of horticultural operations2 for preparing the ground1 for planting the seed1 for cultivation1 for protecting crops from insects and disease1 and for harvesting4 ,first of all comes the ancient and honorable spade1 which1 for small garden plots1 borders1 beds1 etc41 must still be relied upon for the initial operation in gardening--breaking up the soil4 ,there are several types1 but any will answer the purpose4 ,in buying a spade look out for two things3 see that it is well strapped up the handle in front and back1 and that it hangs well4 ,in spading up ground1 especially soil that is turfy or hard1 the work may be made easier by taking a strip not quite twice as wide as the spade1 and making diagonal cuts so that one vertical edge of the spade at each thrust cuts clean out to where the soil has already been dug4 ,the wide-tined spading-fork is frequently used instead of the spade1 as it is lighter and can be more advantageously used to break up lumps and level off surfaces4 ,in most soils it will do this work as well1 if not better1 than the spade and has the further good quality of being serviceable as a fork too1 thus combining two tools in one4 ,it should be more generally known and used4 ,with the ordinary fork1 used for handling manure and gathering up trash1 weeds1 etc41 every gardener is familiar4 ,the type with oval1 slightly up-curved tines1 five or six in number1 and a ,d handle1 is the most convenient and comfortable for garden use4 ,for areas large enough for a horse to turn around in1 use a plow4 ,there are many good makes4 ,the swivel type has the advantage of turning all the furrows one way1 and is the best for small plots and sloping ground4 ,it should turn a clean1 deep furrow4 ,in deep soil that has long been cultivated1 plowing should1 with few exceptions1 be down at least to the subsoil2 and if the soil is shallow it will be advisable to turn up a little of the subsoil1 at each plowing--not more than an inch--in order that the soil may gradually be deepened4 ,in plowing sod it will be well to have the plow fitted with a coulter1 which turns a miniature furrow ahead of the plowshare1 thus covering under all sods and grass and getting them out of the way of harrows and other tools to be used later4 ,in plowing under tall-growing green manures1 like rye1 a heavy chain is hung from the evener to the handle1 thus pulling the crop down into the furrow so that it will all be covered under4 ,where drainage is poor it will be well to break up the subsoil with a subsoil plow1 which follows in the wake of the regular plow but does not lift the subsoil to the surface4 ,,tools ,,for ,,preparing ,,the ,,seed-,,bed ,the spade or spading-fork will be followed by the hoe1 or hook1 and the iron rake2 and the plow by one or more of the various types of harrow4 ,the best type of hoe for use after the spade is the wide1 deep-bladed type4 ,in most soils1 however1 this work may be done more expeditiously with the hook or prong-hoe 7see illustration74 ,with this the soil can be thoroughly pulverized to a depth of several inches4 ,in using either1 be careful not to pull up manure or trash turned under by the spade1 as all such material if left covered will quickly rot away in the soil and furnish the best sort of plant food4 ,i should think that our energetic manufactures would make a prong-hoe with heavy wide blades1 like those of the spading-fork1 but ,i have never seen such an implement1 either in use or advertised4 ,what the prong-hoe is to the spade1 the harrow is to the plow4 ,for general purposes the ,acme is an excellent harrow4 ,it is adjustable1 and for ground at all mellow will be the only one necessary2 set it1 for the first time over1 to cut in deep2 and then1 set for leveling1 it will leave the soil in such excellent condition that a light hand- raking 7or1 for large areas1 the ,meeker smoothing-harrow7 will prepare it for the finest of seeds1 such as onions and carrots4 ,the teeth of the ,acme are so designed that they practically constitute a gang of miniature plows4 ,of disc harrows there are a great many makes4 ,the salient feature of the disc type is that they can tear up no manure1 grass or trash1 even when these are but partly turned under by the plow4 ,for this reason it is especially useful on sod or other rough ground4 ,the most convenient harrow for putting on the finishing touches1 for leveling off and fining the surface of the soil1 is the lever spike-tooth4 ,it is adjustable and can be used as a spike-tooth or as a smoothing harrow4 ,any of the harrows mentioned above 7except the ,meeker7 and likewise the prong-hoe1 will have to be followed by the iron rake when preparing the ground for small-seeded garden vegetables4 ,get the sort with what is termed the bow head 7see illustration7 instead of one in which the head is fastened directly to the end of the handle4 ,it is less likely to get broken1 and easier to use4 ,there is quite a knack in manipulating even a garden rake1 which will come only with practice4 ,do not rake as though you were gathering up leaves or grass4 ,the secret in using the garden rake is not to gather things up4 ,small stones1 lumps of earth and such things1 you of course wish to remove4 ,keep these raked off ahead of where you are leveling the soil1 which is accomplished with a backward-and-forward movement of the rake4 ,the tool-house of every garden of any size should contain a seed-drill4 ,labor which is otherwise tedious and difficult is by it rendered mere play--as well as being better done4 ,the operations of marking the row1 opening the furrow1 dropping the seed at the proper depth and distance1 covering immediately with fresh earth1 and firming the soil1 are all done at one fell swoop and as fast as you can walk4 ,it will even drop seeds in hills4 ,but that is not all3 it may be had as part of a combination machine1 which1 after your seeds are planted--with each row neatly rolled on top1 and plainly visible--may be at once transformed into a wheel hoe that will save you as much time in caring for your plants as the seed-drill did in planting your seed4 ,hoeing drudgery becomes a thing of the past4 ,the illustration herewith shows such a machine1 and some of the varied attachments which may be had for it4 ,there are so many1 and so varied in usefulness1 that it would require an entire chapter to detail their special advantages and methods of use4 ,the catalogues describing them will give you many valuable suggestions2 and other ways of utilizing them will discover themselves to you in your work4 ,valuable as the wheel hoe is1 however1 and varied in its scope of work1 the time-tried hoe cannot be entirely dispensed with4 ,an accompanying photograph ,,ed4 ,not shown here shows four distinct types1 all of which will pay for themselves in a garden of moderate size4 ,the one on the right is the one most generally seen2 next to it is a modified form which personally ,i prefer for all light work1 such as loosening soil and cutting out weeds4 ,it is lighter and smaller1 quicker and easier to handle4 ,next to this is the ,warren1 or heart-shaped hoe1 especially valuable in opening and covering drills for seed1 such as beans1 peas or corn4 ,the scuffle-hoe1 or scarifier1 which completes the four1 is used between narrow rows for shallow work1 such as cutting off small weeds and breaking up the crust4 ,it has been rendered less frequently needed by the advent of the wheel hoe1 but when crops are too large to admit of the use of the latter1 the scuffle-hoe is still an indispensable time-saver4 ,there remains one task connected with gardening that is a bug-bear4 ,that is hand-weeding4 ,to get down on one's hands and knees1 in the blistering hot dusty soil1 with the perspiration trickling down into one's eyes1 and pick small weedlets from among tender plantlets1 is not a pleasant occupation4 ,there are1 however1 several sorts of small weeders which lessen the work considerably4 ,one or another of the common types will seem preferable1 according to different conditions of soil and methods of work4 ,personally1 ,i prefer the ,lang's for most uses4 ,the angle blade makes it possible to cut very near to small plants and between close-growing plants1 while the strap over the back of a finger or thumb leaves the fingers free for weeding without dropping the instrument4 ,there are two things to be kept in mind about hand-weeding which will reduce this work to the minimum4 ,first1 never let the weeds get a start2 for even if they do not increase in number1 if they once smother the ground or crop1 you will wish you had never heard of a garden4 ,second1 do your hand-weeding while the surface soil is soft1 when the weeds come out easily4 ,a hard-crusted soil will double and treble the amount of labor required4 ,it would seem that it should be needless1 when garden tools are such savers of labor1 to suggest that they should be carefully kept1 always bright and clean and sharp1 and in repair4 ,but such advice is needed1 to judge by most of the tools one sees4 ,always have a piece of cloth or old bag on hand where the garden tools are kept1 and never put them away soiled and wet4 ,keep the cutting edges sharp4 ,there is as much pleasure in trying to run a dull lawnmower as in working with a rusty1 battered hoe4 ,have an extra handle in stock in case of accident2 they are not expensive4 ,in selecting hand tools1 always pick out those with handles in which the grain does not run out at the point where there will be much strain in using the tool4 ,in rakes1 hoes1 etc41 get the types with ferrule and shank one continuous piece1 so as not to be annoyed with loose heads4 ,spend a few cents to send for some implement catalogues4 ,they will well repay careful perusal1 even if you do not order this year4 ,in these days of intensive advertising1 the commercial catalogue often contains matter of great worth1 in the gathering and presentation of which no expense has been spared4 ,,for ,,fighting ,,plant ,,enemies ,the devices and implements used for fighting plant enemies are of two sorts3--7#a7 those used to afford mechanical protection to the plants2 7#b7 those used to apply insecticides and fungicides4 ,of the first the most useful is the covered frame4 ,it consists usually of a wooden box1 some eighteen inches to two feet square and about eight high1 covered with glass1 protecting cloth1 mosquito netting or mosquito wire4 ,the first two coverings have1 of course1 the additional advantage of retaining heat and protecting from cold1 making it possible by their use to plant earlier than is otherwise safe4 ,they are used extensively in getting an extra early and safe start with cucumbers1 melons and the other vine vegetables4 ,simpler devices for protecting newly-set plants1 such as tomatoes or cabbage1 from the cut-worm1 are stiff1 tin1 cardboard or tar paper collars1 which are made several inches high and large enough to be put around the stem and penetrate an inch or so into the soil4 ,for applying poison powders1 such as dry ,paris green1 hellebore and tobacco dust1 the home gardener should supply himself with a powder gun4 ,if one must be restricted to a single implement1 however1 it will be best to get one of the hand-power1 compressed-air sprayers--either a knapsack pump or a compressed-air sprayer--types of which are illustrated4 ,these are used for applying wet sprays1 and should be supplied with one of the several forms of mist-making nozzles1 the non- cloggable automatic type being the best4 ,for more extensive work a barrel pump1 mounted on wheels1 will be desirable1 but one of the above will do a great deal of work in little time4 ,extension rods for use in spraying trees and vines may be obtained for either4 ,for operations on a very small scale a good hand-syringe may be used1 but as a general thing it will be best to invest a few dollars more and get a small tank sprayer1 as this throws a continuous stream or spray and holds a much larger amount of the spraying solution4 ,whatever type is procured1 get a brass machine--it will out-wear three or four of those made of cheaper metal1 which succumbs very quickly to the1 corroding action of the strong poisons and chemicals used in them4 ,of implements for harvesting1 beside the spade1 prong-hoe and spading- fork already mentioned1 very few are used in the small garden1 as most of them need not only long rows to be economically used1 but horse- power also4 ,the onion harvester attachment for the double wheel hoe1 costing #a4jj1 may be used with advantage in loosening onions1 beets1 turnips1 etc41 from the soil or for cutting spinach4 ,running the hand- plow close on either side of carrots1 parsnips and other deep-growing vegetables will aid materially in getting them out4 ,for fruit picking1 with tall trees1 the wire-fingered fruit-picker1 secured to the end of a long handle1 will be of great assistance1 but with the modern method of using low-headed trees it will not be needed4 ,another class of garden implements are those used in pruning--but where this is attended to properly from the start1 a good sharp jack-knife and a pair of pruning shears 7the ,english makes are the best1 as they are in some things1 when we are frank enough to confess the truth7 will easily handle all the work of the kind necessary4 ,still another sort of garden device is that used for supporting the plants2 such as stakes1 trellises1 wires1 etc4 ,altogether too little attention usually is given these1 as with proper care in storing over winter they will not only last for years1 but add greatly to the convenience of cultivation and to the neat appearance of the garden4 ,various contrivances are illustrated in the seed catalogues1 and many may be home-made--such as a stake-trellis for supporting beans4 ,as a final word to the intending purchaser of garden tools1 ,i would say3 first thoroughly investigate the different sorts available1 and when buying1 do not forget that a good tool or a well-made machine will be giving you satisfactory use long1 long after the price is forgotten1 while a poor one is a constant source of discomfort4 ,get good tools1 and take good care of them4 ,and let me repeat that a few dollars a year1 judiciously spent1 for tools afterward well cared for1 will soon give you a very complete set1 and add to your garden profit and pleasure4 ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,,manures ,,and ,,fertilizers ,to a very small extent garden vegetables get their food from the air4 ,the amount obtained in this way however1 is so infinitesimal that from the practical standpoint it need not be considered at all4 ,practically speaking1 your vegetables must get all their food from the garden soil4 ,this important garden fact may seem self-evident1 but1 if one may judge by their practice1 amateur gardeners very frequently fail to realize it4 ,the professional gardener must come to realize it for the simple reason that if he does not he will go out of business4 ,without an abundant supply of suitable food it is just as impossible to grow good vegetables as it would be to train a winning football team on a diet of sweet cider and angel cake4 ,without plenty of plant food1 all the care1 coddling1 coaxing1 cultivating1 spraying and worrying you may give will avail little4 ,the soil must be rich or the garden will be poor4 ,plant food is of as many kinds1 or1 more accurately speaking1 in as many forms1 as is food for human beings4 ,but the first distinction to make in plant foods is that between available and non- available foods--that is1 between foods which it is possible for the plant to use1 and those which must undergo a change of some sort before the plant can take them up1 assimilate them1 and turn them into a healthy growth of foliage1 fruit or root4 ,it is just as readily possible for a plant to starve in a soil abounding in plant food1 if that food is not available1 as it would be for you to go unnourished in the midst of soups and tender meats if the latter were frozen solid4 ,plants take all their nourishment in the form of soups1 and very weak ones at that4 ,plant food to be available must be soluble to the action of the feeding root tubes2 and unless it is available it might1 as far as the present benefiting of your garden is concerned1 just as well not be there at all4 ,plants take up their food through innumerable and microscopic feeding rootlets1 which possess the power of absorbing moisture1 and furnishing it1 distributed by the plant juices1 or sap1 to stem1 branch1 leaf1 flower and fruit4 ,there is one startling fact which may help to fix these things in your memory3 it takes from #cjj to #ejj pounds of water to furnish food for the building of one pound of dry plant matter4 ,you can see why plant food is not of much use unless it is available2 and it is not available unless it is soluble4 ,,the ,,theory ,,of ,,manuring ,the food of plants consists of chemical elements1 or rather1 of numerous substances which contain these elements in greater or less degrees4 ,there is not room here to go into the interesting science of this matter4 ,it is evident1 however1 as we have already seen that the plants must get their food from the soil1 that there are but two sources for such food3 it must either be in the soil already1 or we must put it there4 ,the practice of adding plant food to the soil is what is called manuring4 ,the only three of the chemical elements mentioned which we need consider are3 nitrogen1 phosphoric acid1 and potash4 ,the average soil contains large amounts of all three1 but they are for the most part in forms which are not available and1 therefore1 to that extent1 may be at once dismissed from our consideration4 7,the non-available plant foods already in the soil may be released or made available to some extent by cultivation4 ,see ,chapter ,,vii47 ,in practically every soil that has been cultivated and cropped1 in long-settled districts1 the amounts of nitrogen1 phosphoric acid and potash which are immediately available will be too meager to produce a good crop of vegetables4 ,it becomes absolutely necessary then1 if one would have a really successful garden1 no matter how small it is1 to add plant foods to the soil abundantly4 ,when you realize1 7#a7 that the number of plant foods containing the three essential elements is almost unlimited1 7#b7 that each contains them in different proportions and in differing degrees of availability1 7#c7 that the amount of the available elements already in the soil varies greatly and is practically undeterminable1 and 7#d7 that different plants1 and even different varieties of the same plant1 use these elements in widely differing proportions2 then you begin to understand what a complex matter this question of manuring is and why it is so much discussed and so little understood4 ,what a labyrinth it offers for any writer--to say nothing of the reader--to go astray in6 ,i have tried to present this matter clearly4 ,if ,i have succeeded it may have been only to make the reader hopelessly discouraged of ever getting at anything definite in the question of enriching the soil4 ,in that case my advice would be that1 for the time being1 he forget all about it4 ,fortunately1 in the question of manuring1 a little knowledge is not often a dangerous thing4 ,fortunately1 too1 your plants do not insist that you solve the food problem for them4 ,set a full table and they will help themselves and take the right dishes4 ,the only thing to worry about is that of the three important foods mentioned 7nitrogen1 phosphoric acid and potash7 there will not be enough3 for it has been proved that when any one of these is exhausted the plant practically stops growth2 it will not continue to fill up on the other two4 ,of course there is such a thing as going to extremes and wasting plant foods1 even if it does not1 as a rule1 hurt the plants4 ,if1 however1 the fertilizers and manures described in the following sections are applied as directed1 and as mentioned in ,chapter ,,vii41 good results will be certain1 provided the seed1 cultivation and season are right4 ,,various ,,manures ,the terms manure and fertilizer are used somewhat ambiguously and interchangeably4 ,using the former term in a broad sense--as meaning any substance containing available plant food applied to the soil1 we may say that manure is of two kinds3 organic1 such as stable manure1 or decayed vegetable matter2 and inorganic1 such as potash salts1 phosphatic rock and commercial mixed fertilizers4 ,in a general way the term fertilizer applies to these inorganic manures1 and ,i shall use it in this sense through the following text4 ,between the organic manures1 or natural manures as they are often called1 and fertilizers there is a very important difference which should never be lost sight of4 ,in theory1 and as a chemical fact too1 a bag of fertilizer may contain twice the available plant food of a ton of well rotted manure2 but out of a hundred practical gardeners ninety- nine--and probably one more--would prefer the manure4 ,there is a reason why--two reasons1 even if not one of the hundred gardeners could give them to you4 ,first1 natural manures have a decided physical effect upon most soils 7altogether aside from the plant food they contain72 and second1 plants seem to have a preference as to the form in which their food elements are served to them4 ,fertilizers1 on the other hand1 are valuable only for the plant food they contain1 and sometimes have a bad effect upon the physical condition of the soil4 ,when it comes right down to the practical question of what to put on your garden patch to grow big crops1 nothing has yet been discovered that is better than the old reliable stand-by--well rotted1 thoroughly fined stable or barnyard manure4 ,heed those adjectives6 ,we have already seen that plant food which is not available might as well be1 for our immediate purposes1 at the ,north ,pole4 ,the plant food in green or fresh manure is not available1 and does not become so until it is released by the decay of the organic matters therein4 ,now the time possible for growing a crop of garden vegetables is limited2 in many instances it is only sixty to ninety days4 ,the plants want their food ready at once2 there is no time to be lost waiting for manure to rot in the soil4 ,that is a slow process--especially so in clayey or heavy soils4 ,so on your garden use only manure that is well rotted and broken up4 ,on the other hand1 see that it has not fire-fanged or burned out1 as horse manure1 if piled by itself and left1 is very sure to do4 ,if you keep any animals of your own1 see that the various sorts of manure --excepting poultry manure1 which is so rich that it is a good plan to keep it for special purposes--are mixed together and kept in a compact1 built-up square heap1 not a loose pyramidal pile4 ,keep it under cover and where it cannot wash out4 ,if you have a pig or so1 your manure will be greatly improved by the rooting1 treading and mixing they will give it4 ,if not1 the pile should be turned from bottom to top and outside in and rebuilt1 treading down firmly in the process1 every month or two-- applying water1 but not soaking1 if it has dried out in the meantime4 ,such manure will be worth two or three times as much1 for garden purposes1 as that left to burn or remain in frozen lumps4 ,if you have to buy all your manure1 get that which has been properly kept2 and if you are not familiar with the condition in which it should be1 get a disinterested gardener or farmer to select it for you4 ,when possible1 it will pay you to procure manure several months before you want to use it and work it over as suggested above4 ,in buying manure keep in mind not what animals made it1 but what food was fed--that is the important thing4 ,for instance1 the manure from highly-fed livery horses may be1 weight for weight1 worth three to five times that from cattle wintered over on poor hay1 straw and a few roots4 ,there are other organic manures which it is sometimes possible for one to procure1 such as refuse brewery hops1 fish scraps and sewage1 but they are as a rule out of the reach of1 or objectionable for1 the purposes of the home gardener4 ,there are1 however1 numerous things constantly going to waste about the small place1 which should be converted into manure4 ,fallen leaves1 grass clippings1 vegetable tops and roots1 green weeds1 garbage1 house slops1 dish water1 chip dirt from the wood-pile1 shavings--any thing that will rot away1 should go into the compost heap4 ,these should be saved1 under cover if possible1 in a compact heap and kept moist 7never soaked7 to help decomposition4 ,to start the heap1 gather up every available substance and make it into a pile with a few wheelbarrows full1 or half a cartload1 of fresh horse manure1 treading the whole down firmly4 ,fermentation and decomposition will be quickly started4 ,the heap should occasionally be forked over and restacked4 ,light dressings of lime1 mixed in at such times1 will aid thorough decomposition4 ,wood ashes form another valuable manure which should be carefully saved4 ,beside the plant food contained1 they have a most excellent effect upon the mechanical condition of almost every soil4 ,ashes should not be put in the compost heap1 because there are special uses for them1 such as dusting on squash or melon vines1 or using on the onion bed1 which makes it desirable to keep them separate4 ,wood ashes may frequently be bought for fifty cents a barrel1 and at this price a few barrels for the home garden will be a good investment4 ,coal ashes contain practically no available plant food1 but are well worth saving to use on stiff soils1 for paths1 etc4 ,,value ,,of ,,green ,,manuring ,another source of organic manures1 altogether too little appreciated1 is what is termed green manuring--the plowing under of growing crops to enrich the land4 ,even in the home garden this system should be taken advantage of whenever possible4 ,in farm practice1 clover is the most valuable crop to use for this purpose1 but on account of the length of time necessary to grow it1 it is useful for the vegetable garden only when there is sufficient room to have clover growing on1 say1 one half- acre plot1 while the garden occupies1 for two years1 another half-acre2 and then changing the two about4 ,this system will give an ideal garden soil1 especially where it is necessary to rely for the most part upon chemical fertilizers4 ,there are1 however1 four crops valuable for green-manuring the garden1 even where the same spot must be occupied year after year3 rye1 field corn1 field peas 7or cow peas in the south7 and crimson clover4 ,after the first of ,september1 sow every foot of garden ground cleared of its last crop1 with winter rye4 ,sow all ground cleared during ,august with crimson clover and buckwheat1 and mulch the clover with rough manure after the buckwheat dies down4 ,sow field peas or corn on any spots that would otherwise remain unoccupied six weeks or more4 ,all these are sown broadcast1 on a freshly raked surface4 ,such a system will save a very large amount of plant food which otherwise would be lost1 will convert unavailable plant food into available forms while you wait for the next crop1 and add humus to the soil--concerning the importance of which see ,chapter ,,vii4 ,,chemical ,,fertilizers ,i am half tempted to omit entirely any discussion of chemical fertilizers3 to give a list of them1 tell how to apply them1 and let the why and wherefore go4 ,it is1 however1 such an important subject1 and the home gardener will so frequently have to rely almost entirely upon their use1 that probably it will be best to explain the subject as thoroughly as ,i can do it in very limited space4 ,i shall try to give the theory of scientific chemical manuring in one paragraph4 ,we have already seen that the soil contains within itself some available plant food4 ,we can determine by chemical analysis the exact amounts of the various plant foods--nitrogen1 phosphoric acid1 potash1 etc4--which a crop of any vegetable will remove from the soil4 ,the idea in scientific chemical manuring is to add to the available plant foods already in the soil just enough more to make the resulting amounts equal to the quantities of the various elements used by the crop grown4 ,in other words3 7 ,available plant food elements in 7 the soil1 plus ,amounts of food elements ,available chemical food elements 7 in matured crop supplied in fertilizers 7 ,that was the theory--a very pretty and profound one6 ,the discoverers of it imagined that all agriculture would be revolutionized2 all farm and garden practice reduced to an exact science2 all older theories of husbandry and tillage thrown by the heels together upon the scrap heap of outworn things4 ,science was to solve at one fell swoop all the age- old problems of agriculture4 ,and the whole thing was all right in every way but one--it didn't work4 ,the unwelcome and obdurate fact remained that a certain number of pounds of nitrogen1 phosphoric acid and potash--about thirty-three--in a ton of good manure would grow bigger crops than would the same number of pounds of the same elements in a bag of chemical fertilizer4 ,nevertheless this theory1 while it failed as the basis of an exact agricultural science1 has been developed into an invaluable guide for using all manures1 and especially concentrated chemical manures4 ,and the above facts1 if ,i have presented them clearly1 will assist the home gardener in solving the fertilizer problems which he is sure to encounter4 ,,various ,,fertilizers ,what are termed the raw materials from which the universally known mixed fertilizers are made up1 are organic or inorganic substances which contain nitrogen1 phosphoric acid or potash in fairly definite amounts4 ,some of these can be used to advantage by themselves4 ,those practical for use by the home gardener1 ,i mention4 ,the special uses to which they are adapted will be mentioned in ,part ,two1 under the vegetables for which they are valuable4 ,,ground ,,bone is rich in phosphate and lasts a long time2 what is called raw bone is the best ,bone dust or bone flour is finely pulverized2 it will produce quick results1 but does not last as long as the coarser forms4 ,,cotton-,,seed ,,meal is one of the best nitrogenous fertilizers for garden crops4 ,it is safer than nitrate of soda in the hands of the inexperienced gardener1 and decays very quickly in the soil4 ,,peruvian ,,guano1 in the pure form1 is now practically out of the market4 ,lower grades1 less rich in nitrogen especially1 are to be had2 and also fortified guano1 in which chemicals are added to increase the content of nitrogen4 ,it is good for quick results4 ,,nitrate ,,of ,,soda1 when properly handled1 frequently produces wonderful results in the garden1 particularly upon quick-growing crops4 ,it is the richest in nitrogen of any chemical generally used1 and a great stimulant to plant growth4 ,when used alone it is safest to mix with an equal bulk of light dirt or some other filler4 ,if applied pure1 be sure to observe the following rules or you may burn your plants3 7#a7 ,pulverize all lumps2 7#b7 see that none of it lodges upon the foliage2 7#c7 never apply when there is moisture upon the plants2 7#d7 apply in many small doses--say #aj to #bj pounds at a time for #ej x #ajj feet of garden4 ,it should be put on so sparingly as to be barely visible2 but its presence will soon be denoted by the moist spot1 looking like a big rain drop1 which each particle of it makes in the dry soil4 ,nitrate of soda may also be used safely in solution1 at the rate of #a pound to #ab gallons of water4 ,i describe its use thus at length because ,i consider it the most valuable single chemical which the gardener has at command4 ,,muriate and ,,sulphate ,,of ,,potash are also used by themselves as sources of potash1 but as a general thing it will be best to use them in combination with other chemicals as described under ,home ,mixing4 ,,lime will be of benefit to most soils4 ,it acts largely as an indirect fertilizer1 helping to release other food elements already in the soil1 but in non-available forms4 ,it should be applied once in three to five years1 at the rate of #ge to #ajj bushels per acre1 after plowing1 and thoroughly harrowed in4 ,apply as long before planting as possible1 or in the fall4 ,,mixed ,,fertilizers ,mixed fertilizers are of innumerable brands1 and for sale everywhere4 ,it is little use to pay attention to the claims made for them4 ,even where the analysis is guaranteed1 the ordinary gardener has no way of knowing that the contents of his few bags are what they are labeled4 ,the best you can do1 however1 is to buy on the basis of analysis1 not of price per ton--usually the more you pay per bag1 the cheaper you are really buying your actual plant food4 ,send to the ,experiment ,station in your ,state and ask for the last bulletin on fertilizer values4 ,it will give a list of the brands sold throughout the ,state1 the retail price per ton1 and the actual value of plant foods contained in a ton4 ,then buy the brand in which you will apparently get the greatest value4 ,for garden crops the mixed fertilizer you use should contain 7about73 7 ,nitrogen1 #d per cent4 7 ,basic formula ,phosphoric acid1 #h per cent4 for ,potash1 #aj per cent4 7 ,garden crops 7 ,if applied alone1 use at the rate of #ajjj to #aejj pounds per acre4 ,if with manure1 less1 in proportion to the amount of the latter used4 ,by basic formula 7see above7 is meant one which contains the plant foods in the proportion which all garden crops must have4 ,particular crops may need additional amounts of one or more of the three elements1 in order to attain their maximum growth4 ,such extra feeding is usually supplied by top dressings1 during the season of growth4 ,the extra food beneficial to the different vegetables will be mentioned in the cultural directions in ,part ,two4 ,,home ,,mixing ,if you look over the ,experiment ,station report mentioned above1 you will notice that what are called home mixtures almost invariably show a higher value compared to the cost than any regular brand4 ,in some cases the difference is fifty per cent4 ,this means that you can buy the raw chemicals and make up your own mixtures cheaper than you can buy mixed fertilizers4 ,more than that1 it means you will have purer mixtures4 ,more than that1 it means you will have on hand the materials for giving your crops the special feeding mentioned above4 ,the idea widely prevails1 thanks largely to the fertilizer companies1 that home mixing cannot be practically done1 especially upon a small scale4 ,from both information and personal experience ,i know the contrary to be the case4 ,with a tight floor or platform1 a square-pointed shovel and a coarse wire screen1 there is absolutely nothing impractical about it4 ,the important thing is to see that all ingredients are evenly and thoroughly mixed4 ,a scale for weighing will also be a convenience4 ,further information may be had from the firms which sell raw materials1 or from your ,experiment ,station4 ,,applying ,,manures ,the matter of properly applying manure1 even on the small garden1 is also of importance4 ,in amount1 from fifteen to twenty-five cords1 or #fj to #ajj cartloads1 will not be too much2 although if fertilizers are used to help out1 the manure may be decreased in proportion4 ,if possible1 take it from the heap in which it has been rotting1 and spread evenly over the soil immediately before plowing4 ,if actively fermenting1 it will lose by being exposed to wind and sun4 ,if green1 or in cold weather1 it may be spread and left until plowing is done4 ,when plowing1 it should be completely covered under1 or it will give all kinds of trouble in sowing and cultivating4 ,fertilizers should be applied1 where used to supplement manure or in place of it1 at from #ejj to #aejj pounds per acre1 according to grade and other conditions4 ,it is sown on broadcast1 after plowing1 care being taken to get it evenly distributed4 ,this may be assured by sowing half while going across the piece1 and the other half while going lengthwise of it4 ,when used as a starter1 or for top dressings--as mentioned in connection with the basic formula--it may be put in the hill or row at time of planting1 or applied on the surface and worked in during the growth of the plants4 ,in either case1 especially with highly concentrated chemicals1 care must be taken to mix them thoroughly with the soil and to avoid burning the tender roots4 ,this chapter is longer than ,i wanted to make it1 but the problem of how best to enrich the soil is the most difficult one in the whole business of gardening1 and the degree of your success in growing vegetables will be measured pretty much by the extent to which you master it4 ,you cannot do it at one reading4 ,re-read this chapter1 and when you understand the several subjects mentioned1 in the brief way which limited space made necessary1 pursue them farther in one of the several comprehensive books on the subject4 ,it will well repay all the time you spend upon it4 ,because1 from necessity1 there has been so much of theory mixed up with the practical in this chapter1 ,i shall very briefly recapitulate the directions for just what to do1 in order that the subject of manuring may be left upon the same practical basis governing the rest of the book4 ,to make your garden rich enough to grow big crops1 buy the most thoroughly worked over and decomposed manure you can find4 ,if it is from grain-fed animals1 and if pigs have run on it1 it will be better yet4 ,if possible1 buy enough to put on at the rate of about twenty cords to the acre2 if not1 supplement the manure1 which should be plowed under1 with #ejj to #aejj pounds of high-grade mixed fertilizer 7analyzing nitrogen four per cent41 phosphoric acid eight per cent41 potash ten per cent47--the quantity in proportion to the amount of manure used1 and spread on broadcast after plowing and thoroughly harrowed in4 ,in addition to this general enrichment of the soil1 suitable quantities of nitrate of soda1 for nitrogen2 bone dust 7or acid phosphate71 for phosphoric acid2 and sulphate of potash1 for potash1 should be bought for later dressings1 as suggested in cultural directions for the various crops4 ,if the instructions in the above paragraph are followed out you may rest assured that your vegetables will not want for plant food and that1 if other conditions are favorable1 you will have maximum crops4 ,,chapter ,,vii ,,the ,,soil ,,and ,,its ,,preparation ,having considered1 as thoroughly as the limited space available permitted1 the matter of plant foods1 we must proceed to the equally important one of how properly to set the table1 on or rather in1 which they must be placed1 before the plants can use them4 ,as was noted in the first part of the preceding chapter1 most tillable soils contain the necessary plant food elements to a considerable extent1 but only in a very limited degree in available forms4 ,they are locked up in the soil larder1 and only after undergoing physical and chemical changes may be taken up by the feeding roots of plants4 ,they are unlocked only by the disintegration and decomposition of the soil particles1 under the influence of cultivation--or mechanical breaking up--and the access of water1 air and heat4 ,the great importance of the part the soil must play in every garden operation is therefore readily seen4 ,in the first place1 it is required to furnish all the plant food elements--some seven in number1 beside the three1 nitrogen1 phosphoric acid and potash1 already mentioned4 ,in the second1 it must hold the moisture in which these foods must be either dissolved or suspended before plant roots can take them up4 ,the soil is naturally classified in two ways3 first1 as to the amount of plant food contained2 second1 as to its mechanical condition--the relative proportions of sand1 decomposed stone and clay1 of which it is made up1 and also the degree to which it has been broken up by cultivation4 ,the approximate amount of available plant food already contained in the soil can be determined satisfactorily only by experiment4 ,as before stated1 however1 almost without exception they will need liberal manuring to produce good garden crops4 ,i shall therefore not go further into the first classification of soils mentioned4 ,of soils1 according to their variation in mechanical texture1 ,i shall mention only the three which the home gardener is likely to encounter4 ,rocks are the original basis of all soils1 and according to the degree of fineness to which they have been reduced1 through centuries of decomposition by air1 moisture and frost1 they are known as gravelly1 sandy or clayey soils4 ,,clay ,,soils are stiff1 wet1 heavy and usually cold4 ,for garden purposes1 until properly transformed1 they hold too much water1 are difficult to handle1 and are late4 ,but even if there be no choice but a clay soil for the home garden1 the gardener need not be discouraged4 ,by proper treatment it may be brought into excellent condition for growing vegetables1 and will produce some sorts1 such as celery1 better than any warm1 light1 garden soil4 ,the first thing to do with the clay soil garden1 is to have it thoroughly drained4 ,for the small amount of ground usually required for a home garden1 this will entail no great expense4 ,under ordinary conditions1 a half-acre garden could be under-drained for from #be to #ej--probably nearer the first figure4 ,the drains--round drain tile1 with collars--should be placed at least three feet deep1 and if they can be put four1 it will be much better4 ,the lines should be1 for the former depth1 twenty to thirty feet apart1 according to character of the soil2 if four feet deep1 they will accomplish just as much if put thirty to fifty feet apart--so it pays to put them in deep4 ,for small areas #b-a_/b-;inch land tile will do4 ,the round style gives the best satisfaction and will prove cheapest in the end4 ,the outlet should of course be at the lowest point of land1 and all drains1 main and laterals1 should fall slightly1 but without exception1 toward this point4 ,before undertaking to put in the drains1 even on a small area1 it will pay well to read some good book on the subject1 such as ,draining for ,profit and ,draining for ,health1 by ,waring4 ,but drain--if your land requires it4 ,it will increase the productiveness of your garden at least #ej to #ajj per cent4--and such an increase1 as you can readily see1 will pay a very handsome annual dividend on the cost of draining4 ,moreover1 the draining system1 if properly put in1 will practically never need renewal4 ,on land that has a stiff or clay sub-soil1 it will pay well to break this up--thus making it more possible for the water to soak down through the surface soil rapidly--by using the sub-soil plow4 7,see ,chapter ,v47 ,the third way to improve clay soils is by using coarse vegetable manures1 large quantities of stable1 manures1 ashes1 chips1 sawdust1 sand1 or any similar materials1 which will tend to break up and lighten the soil mechanically4 ,lime and land plaster are also valuable1 as they cause chemical changes which tend to break up clayey soils4 ,the fourth thing to do in treating a garden of heavy soil is to plow1 ridging up as much as possible1 in the fall1 thus leaving the soil exposed to the pulverizing influences of weather and frost4 ,usually it will not need replowing in the spring4 ,if not plowed until the spring1 care should be taken not to plow until it has dried out sufficiently to crumble from the plow1 instead of making a wet1 pasty furrow4 ,the owner of a clayey garden has one big consolation4 ,it will not let his plant food go to waste4 ,it will hold manures and fertilizers incorporated with it longer than any other soil4 ,,sandy ,,soil is1 as the term implies1 composed largely of sand1 and is the reverse of clay soil4 ,so1 also1 with the treatment4 ,it should be so handled as to be kept as compact as possible4 ,the use of a heavy roller1 as frequently as possible1 will prove very beneficial4 ,sowing or planting should follow immediately after plowing1 and fertilizers or manures should be applied only immediately before4 ,if clay soil is obtainable nearby1 a small area of sandy soil1 such as is required for the garden1 can be made into excellent soil by the addition of the former1 applied as you would manure4 ,plow the garden in the fall and spread the clay soil on evenly1 harrowing in with a disc in the spring4 ,the result will be as beneficial as that of an equal dressing of good manure--and will be permanent4 ,it is one of the valuable qualities of lime1 and also of gypsum to even a greater extent1 that while it helps a clay soil1 it is equally valuable for a sandy one4 ,the same is true of ashes and of the organic manures--especially of green manuring4 ,fertilizers1 on sandy soils1 where they will not long be retained1 should be applied only immediately before planting1 or as top and side dressing during growth4 ,sandy soil in the garden will produce early and quick results1 and is especially adapted to melons1 cucumbers1 beans and a number of the other garden vegetables4 ,,gravelly ,,soil is generally less desirable than either of the others2 it has the bad qualities of sandy soil and not the good ones of clay1 besides being poorer in plant food4 7,calcareous1 or limestone pebble1 soils are an exception1 but they are not widely encountered47 ,they are not suited for garden work1 as tillage harms rather than helps them4 ,,the ,,ideal ,,garden ,,soil is what is known as a rich1 sandy loam1 at least eight inches deep2 if it is eighteen it will be better4 ,it contains the proper proportions of both sand and clay1 and further has been put into the best of mechanical condition by good tilth4 ,that last word brings us to a new and very important matter4 ,in good tilth is a condition of the soil difficult to describe1 but a state that the gardener comes soon to recognize4 ,ground1 continually and properly cultivated1 comes soon to a degree of fineness and lightness at once recognizable4 ,rain is immediately absorbed by it1 and does not stand upon the surface2 it does not readily clog or pack down2 it is crumbly and easily worked2 and until your garden is brought to this condition you cannot attain the greatest success from your efforts4 ,i emphasized properly cultivated4 ,that means that the soil must be kept well supplied with humus1 or decomposed vegetable matter1 either by the application of sufficient quantities of organic manures1 or by green manuring1 or by resting under grass1 which produces a similar result from the amount of roots and stubble with which the soil is filled when the sod is broken up4 ,only by this supply of humus can the garden be kept in that light1 friable1 spongy condition which is absolutely essential to luxuriant vegetable growth4 ,,preparing ,,the ,,soil ,unless your garden be a very small one indeed1 it will pay to have it plowed rather than dug up by hand4 ,if necessary1 arrange the surrounding fence as suggested in the accompanying diagram1 to make possible the use of a horse for plowing and harrowing4 7,as suggested in the chapter on ,implements71 if there is not room for a team1 the one- horse plow1 spring-tooth and spike-tooth cultivators1 can do the work in very small spaces4 ,if however the breaking up of the garden must be done by hand1 have it done deeply--down to the sub-soil1 or as deep as the spading-fork will go4 ,and have it done thoroughly1 every spadeful turned completely and every inch dug4 ,it is hard work1 but it must not be slighted4 ,,plowing ,if the garden can be plowed in the fall1 by all means have it done4 ,if it is in sod1 it must be done at that time if good results are to be secured the following season4 ,in this latter case1 plow a shallow furrow four to six inches deep and turning flat1 as early as possible in the fall1 turning under a coating of horse manure1 or dressing of lime1 and then going over it with a smoothing-harrow or the short blades of the ,acme1 to fill in all crevices4 ,the object of the plowing is to get the sods rotted thoroughly before the following spring2 then apply manure and plow deeply1 six to twelve inches1 according to the soil4 ,where the old garden is to be plowed up1 if there has not been time to get in one of the cover crops suggested elsewhere in this text1 plow as late as possible1 and in ridges4 ,if the soil is light and sandy1 fall plowing will not be advisable4 ,in beginning the spring work it is customary to put on the manure and plow but once4 ,but the labor of double plowing will be well repaid1 especially on a soil likely to suffer from drouth1 if the ground be plowed once1 deeply1 before the manure is spread on1 and then cross- plowed just sufficiently to turn the manure well under--say five or six inches4 ,on stiff lands1 and especially for root crops1 it will pay if possible to have the sub-soil plow follow the regular plow4 ,this is1 of course1 for thoroughly rotted and fined manure2 if coarse1 it had better be put under at one plowing1 making the best of a handicap4 ,if you have arranged to have your garden plowed by the job1 be on hand to see that no shirking is done1 by taking furrows wider than the plow can turn completely2 it is possible to cut and cover so that the surface of a piece will look well enough1 when in reality it is little better than half plowed4 ,,harrowing ,that is the first step toward the preparation of a successful garden out of the way4 ,next comes the harrowing2 if the soil after plowing is at all stiff and lumpy1 get a disc-harrow if you can2 on clayey soils a cut-a-way 7see ,implements74 ,on the average garden soil1 however1 the ,acme will do the work of pulverizing in fine shape4 ,if1 even after harrowing1 the soil remains lumpy1 have the man who is doing your work get a horse-roller somewhere1 and go over the piece with that4 ,the roller should be used also on very sandy and light soils1 after the first harrowing 7or after the plowing1 if the land turns over mellow7 to compact it4 ,to follow the first harrowing 7or the roller7 use a smoothing-harrow1 the ,acme set shallow1 or a brush4 ,,fining4 ,this treatment will reduce to a minimum the labor of finally preparing the seed- or plant-bed with the iron rake 7or1 on large gardens1 with the ,meeker harrow74 ,after the finishing touches1 the soil should be left so even and smooth that you can with difficulty bring yourself to step on it4 ,get it like a table--and then you are ready to begin gardening4 ,whatever implements are used1 do not forget the great importance of making the soil thoroughly fine1 not only at the surface1 but as far as possible below ,even under the necessity of repetition4 ,i want to emphasize this again by stating the four chief benefits1 of this thorough pulverization3 ,first1 it adds materially in making the plant foods in the soil available for use2 secondly1 it induces the growing plants to root deeply1 and thus to a greater extent to escape the drying influence of the sun2 thirdly1 it enables the soil to absorb rain evenly1 where it falls1 which would otherwise either run off and be lost altogether1 or collect in the lower parts of the garden2 and last1 and most important1 it enables the soil to retain moisture thus stored1 as in a subterranean storage tank1 but where the plants can draw upon it1 long after carelessly prepared and shallow soils are burning up in the long protracted drouths which we seem to be increasingly certain of getting during the late summer4 ,prepare your garden deeply1 thoroughly1 carefully1 in addition to making it rich1 and you may then turn to those more interesting operations outlined in the succeeding sections1 with the well founded assurance that your thought and labor will be rewarded by a garden so remarkably more successful than the average garden is1 that all your extra pains-taking will be richly repaid4 ,part ,two--,vegetables ,,chapter ,,viii4 ,,starting ,,the ,,plants ,this beautifully prepared garden spot--or rather the plant food in it-- is to be transformed into good things for your table1 through the ever wonderful agency of plant growth4 ,the thread of life inhering in the tiniest seed1 in the smallest plant1 is the magic wand that may transmute the soil's dull metal into the gold of flower and fruit4 ,all the thought1 care and expense described in the preceding chapters are but to get ready for the two things from which your garden is to spring1 in ways so deeply hidden that centuries of the closest observation have failed to reveal their inner workings4 ,those two are seeds and plants4 7,the sticklers for technical exactness will here take exception1 calling our attention to tubers1 bulbs1 corns and numerous other taverns where plant life puts up over night1 between growth and growth1 but for our present purpose we need not mind them47 ,the plants which you put out in your garden will have been started under glass from seed1 so that1 indirectly1 everything depends on the seed4 ,good seeds1 and true1 you must have if your garden is to attain that highest success which should be our aim4 ,seeds vary greatly--very much more so than the beginner has any conception of4 ,there are three essentials2 if seeds fail in any one of them1 they will be rendered next to useless4 ,first1 they must be true2 selected from good types of stock and true to name2 then they must have been good1 strong1 plump seeds1 full of life and gathered from healthy plants2 and finally1 they must be fresh4 ,footnote3 ,see table later this chapter ,it is therefore of vital importance that you procure the best seeds that can be had1 regardless of cost4 ,poor seeds are dear at any price2 you cannot afford to accept them as a gift4 ,it is1 of course1 impossible to give a rule by which to buy good seed1 but the following suggestions will put you on the safe track4 ,first1 purchase only of some reliable mail-order house2 do not be tempted1 either by convenience or cheapness1 to buy the gaily lithographed packets displayed in grocery and hardware stores at planting time--as a rule they are not reliable2 and what you want for your good money is good seed1 not cheap ink4 ,second1 buy of seedsmen who make a point of growing and testing their own seed4 ,third1 to begin with1 buy from several houses and weed out to the one which proves1 by actual results1 to be the most reliable4 ,another good plan is to purchase seed of any particular variety from the firm that makes a leading specialty of it2 in many cases these specialties have been introduced by these firms and they grow their own supplies of these seeds2 they will also be surer of being true to name and type4 ,good plants are1 in proportion to the amounts used1 just as important as good seed--and of course you cannot afford losing weeks of garden usefulness by growing entirely from seed sown out-doors4 ,beets1 cabbage1 cauliflower1 lettuce1 tomatoes1 peppers1 egg-plant1 and for really efficient gardening1 also onions1 corn1 melons1 celery1 lima beans1 cucumbers1 and squash1 will all begin their joyous journey toward the gardener's table several weeks before they get into the garden at all4 ,they will all be started under glass and have attained a good1 thrifty1 growing size before they are placed in the soil we have been so carefully preparing for them4 ,it is next to impossible to describe a good vegetable plant1 but he who gardens will come soon to distinguish between the healthy1 short-jointed1 deep-colored plant which is ready to take hold and grow1 and the soft1 flabby 7or too succulent7 drawn-up growth of plants which have been too much pampered1 or dwarfed1 weazened specimens which have been abused and starved2 he will learn that a dozen of the former will yield more than fifty of the latter4 ,plants may be bought of the florist or market gardener4 ,if so1 they should be personally selected1 some time ahead1 and gotten some few days before needed for setting out1 so that you may be sure to have them properly hardened off1 and in the right degree of moisture1 for transplanting1 as will be described later4 ,by far the more satisfactory way1 however1 is to grow them yourself4 ,you can then be sure of having the best of plants in exactly the quantities and varieties you want4 ,they will also be on hand when conditions are just right for setting them out4 ,for the ordinary garden1 all the plants needed may be started successfully in hotbeds and cold-frames4 ,the person who has had no experience with these has usually an exaggerated idea of their cost and of the skill required to manage them4 ,the skill is not as much a matter of expert knowledge as of careful regular care1 daily4 ,only a few minutes a day1 for a few sash1 but every day4 ,the cost need be but little1 especially if one is a bit handy with tools4 ,the sash which serves for the cover1 and is removable1 is the important part of the structure4 ,sash may be had1 ready glazed and painted1 at from #b4ej to #c4ej each1 and with care they will last ten or even twenty years1 so you can see at once that not a very big increase in the yield of your garden will be required to pay interest on the investment4 ,or you can buy the sash unglazed1 at a proportionately lower price1 and put the glass in yourself1 if you prefer to spend a little more time and less money4 ,however1 if you are not familiar with the work1 and want only a few sash1 ,i would advise purchasing the finished article4 ,in size they are three feet by six4 ,frames upon which to put the sash covering may also be bought complete1 but here there is a chance to save money by constructing your own frames--the materials required1 being #bx#d in4 lumber for posts1 and inch-boards2 or better1 if you can easily procure them1 plank #b x #ab in4 ,so far as these materials go the hotbed and coldframe are alike4 ,the difference is that while the coldframe depends for its warmth upon catching and holding the heat of the sun's rays1 the hotbed is artificially heated by fermenting manure1 or in rare instances1 by hot water or steam pipes4 ,in constructing the hotbed there are two methods used2 either by placing the frames on top of the manure heap or by putting the manure within the frames4 ,the first method has the advantage of permitting the hotbed to be made upon frozen ground1 when required in the spring4 ,the latter1 which is the better1 must be built before the ground freezes1 but is more economical of manure4 ,the manure in either case should be that of grain-fed horses1 and if a small amount of straw bedding1 or leaves--not more1 however1 than one-third of the latter--be mixed among it1 so much the better4 ,get this manure several days ahead of the time wanted for use and prepare by stacking in a compact1 tramped-down heap4 ,turn it over after three or four days1 and re-stack1 being careful to put the former top and sides of the pile now on the inside4 ,having now ready the heating apparatus and the superstructure of our miniature greenhouse1 the building of it is a very simple matter4 ,if the ground is frozen1 spread the manure in a low1 flat heap--nine or ten feet side1 a foot and a half deep1 and as long as the number of sash to be used demands--a cord of manure thus furnishing a bed for about three sash1 not counting for the ends of the string or row4 ,this heap should be well trodden down and upon it should be placed or built the box or frame upon which the sash are to rest4 ,in using this method it will be more convenient to have the frame made up beforehand and ready to place upon the manure1 as shown in one of the illustrations4 ,this should be at least twelve inches high at the front and some half a foot higher at the back4 ,fill in with at least four inches--better six --of good garden soil containing plenty of humus1 that it may allow water to soak through readily4 ,the other method is to construct the frames on the ground before severe freezing1 and in this case the front should be at least twenty-four inches high1 part of which--not more than half--may be below the ground level4 ,the #b x #ab in4 planks1 when used1 are handled as follows3 stakes are driven in to support the back plank some two or three inches above the ground1--which should1 of course1 be level4 ,the front plank is sunk two or three inches into the ground and held upright by stakes on the outside1 nailed on4 ,remove enough dirt from inside the frame to bank up the planks about halfway on the outside4 ,when this banking has frozen to a depth of two or three inches1 cover with rough manure or litter to keep frost from striking through4 ,the manure for heating should be prepared as above and put in to the depth of a foot1 trodden down1 first removing four to six inches of soil to be put back on top of the manure1--a cord of the latter1 in this case1 serving seven sashes4 ,the vegetable to be grown1 and the season and climate1 will determine the depth of manure required--it will be from one to two feet1--the latter depth seldom being necessary4 ,it must not be overlooked that this manure1 when spent for heating purposes1 is still as good as ever to enrich the garden1 so that the expense of putting it in and removing it from the frames is all that you can fairly charge up against your experiment with hotbeds1 if you are interested to know whether they really pay4 ,the exposure for the hotbeds should be where the sun will strike most directly and where they will be sheltered from the north4 ,put up a fence of rough boards1 five or six feet high1 or place the frames south of some building4 ,the coldframe is constructed practically as in the hotbed1 except that if manure is used at all it is for the purpose of enriching the soil where lettuce1 radishes1 cucumbers or other crops are to be grown to maturity in it4 ,if one can put up even a very small frame greenhouse1 it will be a splendid investment both for profit and for pleasure4 ,the cost is lower than is generally imagined1 where one is content with a home-made structure4 ,look into it4 ,,preparing ,,the ,,soil ,all this may seem like a lot of trouble to go to for such a small thing as a packet of seed4 ,in reality it is not nearly so much trouble as it sounds1 and then1 too1 this is for the first season only1 a well built frame lasting for years--forever1 if you want to take a little more time and make it of concrete instead of boards4 ,but now that the frame is made1 how to use it is the next question4 ,the first consideration must be the soil4 ,it should be rich1 light1 friable4 ,there are some garden loams that will do well just as taken up1 but as a rule better results will be obtained where the soil is made up specially as follows3 rotted sods two parts1 old rotted manure one part1 and enough coarse sand added to make the mixture fine and crumbly1 so that1 even when moist1 it will fall apart when pressed into a ball in the hand4 ,such soil is best prepared by cutting out sod1 in the summer1 where the grass is green and thick1 indicating a rich soil4 ,along old fences or the roadside where the wash has settled will be good places to get limited quantities4 ,those should be cut with considerable soil and stacked1 grassy sides together1 in layers in a compost pile4 ,if the season proves very dry1 occasionally soak the heap through4 ,in late fall put in the cellar1 or wherever solid freezing will not take place1 enough to serve for spring work under glass4 ,the amount can readily be calculated2 soil for three sash1 four inches deep1 for instance1 would take eighteen feet or a pile three feet square and two feet high4 ,the fine manure 7and sand1 if necessary7 may be added in the fall or when using in the spring4 ,here again it may seem to the amateur that unnecessary pains are being taken4 ,i can but repeat what has been suggested all through this book1 that it will require but little more work to do the thing the best way as long as one is doing it at all1 and the results will be not only better1 but practically certain--and that is a tremendously important point about all gardening operations4 ,,sowing ,,the ,,seed ,having now our frames provided and our soil composed properly and good strong tested seed on hand1 we are prepared to go about the business of growing our plants with a practical certainty of success--a much more comfortable feeling than if1 because something or other had been but half done1 we must anxiously await results and the chances of having the work we had put into the thing go1 after all1 for nothing4 ,the seed may be sown either directly in the soil or in flats4 ,flats are made as follows3 ,get from your grocer a number of cracker boxes1 with the tops4 ,saw the boxes lengthwise into sections1 a few two inches deep and the rest three4 ,one box will make four or five such sections1 for two of which bottoms will be furnished by the bottom and top of the original box4 ,another box of the same size1 knocked apart1 will furnish six bottoms more to use for the sections cut from the middle of the box4 ,the bottoms of all1 if tight1 should have1 say1 five three- quarter-inch holes bored in them to allow any surplus water to drain off from the soil4 ,the shallow flats may be used for starting the seed and the three-inch ones for transplanting4 ,where sowing but a small quantity of each variety of seed1 the flats will be found much more convenient than sowing directly in the soil--and in the case of their use1 of course1 the soil on top of the manure need be but two or three inches deep and not especially prepared4 ,where the seed is to go directly into the frames1 the soil described above is1 of course1 used4 ,but when in flats1 to be again transplanted1 the soil for the first sowing will be better for having no manure in it1 the idea being to get the hardest1 stockiest growth possible4 ,soil for the flats in which the seeds are to be planted should be1 if possible1 one part sod1 one part chip dirt or leaf mould1 and one part sand4 ,the usual way of handling the seed flats is to fill each about one- third full of rough material--screenings1 small cinders or something similar--and then fill the box with the prepared earth1 which should first be finely sifted4 ,this1 after the seeds are sown1 should be copiously watered--with a fine rose spray1 or if one has not such1 through a folded bag to prevent the washing of the soil4 ,here is another way which ,i have used recently and1 so far1 with one hundred per cent1 certainty of results4 ,last fall1 when every bit of soil about my place was ash dry1 and ,i had occasion to start immediately some seeds that were late in reaching me1 my necessity mothered the following invention1 an adaptation of the principle of sub-irrigation4 ,to have filled the flats in the ordinary way would not have done1 as it would have been impossible ever to wet the soil through without making a solid mud cake of it1 in which seeds would have stood about as good a chance of doing anything as though not watered at all4 ,i filled the flats one-third full of sphagnum moss1 which was soaked1 then to within half an inch of the top with soil1 which was likewise soaked1 and did not look particularly inviting4 ,the flats were then filled level-full of the dust-dry soil1 planted1 and put in partial shade4 ,within half a day the surface soil had come to just the right degree of moisture1 soaked up from below1 and there was in a few days more a perfect stand of seedlings4 ,i have used this method in starting all my seedlings this spring--some forty thousand1 so far--only using soil screenings1 mostly small pieces of decayed sod1 in place of the moss and giving a very light watering in the surface to make it compact and to swell the seed at once4 ,two such flats are shown ,,ed41 unable to recreate in typed format1 just ready to transplant4 ,the seedlings illustrated in the upper flat had received just two waterings since being planted4 ,where several hundred or more plants of each variety are wanted1 sow the seed broadcast as evenly as possible and fairly thick--one ounce of cabbage1 for instance1 to three to five #ac x #ai inch flats4 ,if but a few dozen1 or a hundred1 are wanted1 sow in rows two or three inches apart1 being careful to label each correctly4 ,before sowing1 the soil should be pressed firmly into the corners of the flats and leveled off perfectly smooth with a piece of board or shingle4 ,press the seed evenly into the soil with a flat piece of board1 cover it lightly1 one- eighth to one-quarter inch1 with sifted soil1 press down barely enough to make smooth1 and water with a very fine spray1 or through burlap4 ,for the next two days the flats can go on a pretty hot surface1 if one is available1 such as hot water or steam pipes1 or top of a boiler1 but if these are not convenient1 directly into the frame1 where the temperature should be kept as near as possible to that indicated in the following table4 ,in from two to twelve days1 according to temperature and variety1 the little seedlings will begin to appear4 ,in case the soil has not been made quite friable enough1 they will sometimes raise the roof instead of breaking through4 ,if so1 see that the surface is broken up at once1 with the fingers and a careful watering1 as otherwise many of the little plants may become bent and lanky in a very short time4 ,from now on until they are ready to transplant1 a period of some three or four weeks1 is the time when they will most readily be injured by neglect4 ,there are things you will have to look out for1 and your attention must be regular to the matters of temperature1 ventilation and moisture4 ,,vegetable ,,date ,,to ,,sow ,,seed ,,will ,,best ,,temperature ,,to ,,keep ,,germinate 7,,about7 7,,about7 ,beets ,feb4 #ae-;,apr4 #a #e years #ee degrees ,broccoli ,feb4 #ae-;,apr4 #a #e years #ee degrees ,brussels ,sprouts ,feb4 #ae-;,apr4 #a #g years #ee degrees ,cabbage ,feb4 #a-;,apr4 #a #g years #ee degrees ,cauliflower ,feb4 #a-;,apr4 #a #g years #ee degrees ,celery ,feb4 #ae-;,apr4 #a #h years #ej degrees ,corn ,apr4 #a-,may #a #b years #fe degrees ,cucumber ,mar4 #ae-,may #a #aj years #ge degrees ,egg-plant ,mar4 #a-;,apr4 #ae #g years #ge degrees ,kohlrabi ,mar4 #a-;,apr4 #a #g years #ee degrees ,lettuce ,feb4 #ae-;,apr4 #a #e years #ee degrees ,melon1 musk ,apr4 #a-,may #a #g years #ge degrees ,melon1 water ,apr4 #a-,may #a #g years #ge degrees ,okra ,mar4 #ae-;,apr4 #ae #c years #fe degrees ,onion ,jan4 #ae-,mar4 #ae #c years #ej degrees ,pepper ,mar4 #a-;,apr4 #ae #e years #ge degrees ,squash ,mar4 #ae-;,apr4 #ae #g years #ge degrees ,tomato ,mar4 #a-;,apr4 #ae #e years #ge degrees ,the temperatures required by the different varieties will be indicated by the table above4 ,it should be kept as nearly as possible within ten degrees lower and fifteen higher 7in the sun7 than given4 ,if the nights are still cold1 so that the mercury goes near zero1 it will be necessary to provide mats or shutters 7see illustrations7 to cover the glass at night4 ,or1 better still1 for the few earliest frames1 have double-glass sash1 the dead-air space making further protection unnecessary4 ,,ventilation3 ,on all days when the temperature within the frame runs up to sixty to eighty degrees1 according to variety1 give air1 either by tilting the sash up at the end or side1 and holding in position with a notched stick2 or1 if the outside temperature permits1 strip the glass off altogether4 ,,watering3 ,keep a close watch upon the conditions of the soil1 especially if you are using flats instead of planting directly in the soil4 ,wait until it is fairly dry--never until the plants begin to wilt1 however--and then give a thorough soaking1 all the soil will absorb4 ,if at all possible do this only in the morning 7up to eleven o'clock7 on a bright sunny day4 ,plants in the seedling state are subject to damping off--a sudden disease of the stem tissue just at or below the soil1 which either kills the seedlings outright1 or renders them worthless4 ,some authorities claim that the degree of moisture or dampness has nothing to do with this trouble4 ,i am not prepared to contradict them1 but as far as my own experience goes ,i am satisfied that the drier the stems and leaves can be kept1 so long as the soil is in good condition1 the better4 ,i consider this one of the advantages of the sub-irrigation method of preparing the seed flats1 described above4 ,,transplanting3 ,under this care the little seedlings will come along rapidly4 ,when the second true leaf is forming they will be ready for transplanting or pricking off1 as it is termed in garden parlance4 ,if the plants are at all crowded in the boxes1 this should be done just as soon as they are ready1 as otherwise they will be injured by crowding and more likely to damp off4 ,boxes similar to the seed-flats1 but an inch deeper1 are provided for transplanting4 ,fill these with soil as described for frames--sifted through a coarse screen 7chicken-wire size7 and mixed with one-third rotted manure4 ,or place an inch of manure1 which must be so thoroughly rotted that most of the heat has left1 in the bottom1 and fill in with soil4 ,find or construct a table or bench of convenient height1 upon which to work4 ,with a flat piece of stick or one of the types of transplanting forks lift from the seedling box a clump of seedlings1 dirt and all1 clear to the bottom4 ,hold this clump in one hand and with the other gently tear away the seedlings1 one at a time1 discarding all crooked or weak ones4 ,never attempt to pull the seedlings from the soil in the flats1 as the little rootlets are very easily broken off4 ,they should come away almost intact4 ,water your seed-flats the day previous to transplanting1 so that the soil will be in just the right condition1 neither wet enough to make the roots sticky nor dry enough to crumble away4 ,take the little seedling by the stem between thumb and forefinger1 and with a small round pointed stick or dibber1 or with the forefinger of the other hand1 make a hole to receive the roots and about half the length--more if the seedlings are lanky--of the stem4 ,as the seedling drops into place1 the tips of both thumbs and forefingers1 by one quick1 firm movement1 compress the earth firmly both down on the roots and against the stem1 so that the plant sticks up firmly and may not be readily pulled out4 ,of course there is a knack about it which cannot be put into words--,i could have pricked off a hundred seedlings in the time ,i am spending in trying to describe the operation1 but a little practice will make one reasonably efficient at it4 ,in my own work this spring1 ,i have applied the sub-irrigation idea to this operation also4 ,the manure placed in the bottom of the boxes is thoroughly watered and an inch of soil put in and watered also1 and the box then filled and the plants pricked in4 ,by preparing a number of flats at one time1 but little additional work is required1 and the results have convinced me that the extra trouble is well worth while4 ,of the early cabbage and cauliflower1 not two plants in a thousand have dropped out4 ,ordinarily about one hundred plants are put in a #ac x #ai inch flat1 but if one has room and is growing only a few plants for home use1 somewhat better plants may be had if fifty or seventy-five are put in4 ,in either case keep the outside rows close to the edges of the flats1 as they will have plenty of room anyway4 ,when the flat is completed1 jar the box slightly to level the surface1 and give a thorough watering at once1 being careful1 however1 to bend down the plants as little as possible4 ,set the flats close together on a level surface1 and1 if the weather is bright1 shade from the sun during the middle of the day for two or three days4 ,from now on keep at the required temperature and water thoroughly on bright mornings as often as the soil in the flats gets on the dry side1 as gardeners say--indicated by the whitening and crusting of the surface4 ,above all1 give all the air possible while maintaining the necessary temperature4 ,the quality of the plants will depend more upon this than anything else in the way of care4 ,whenever the temperature allows1 strip off the sash and let the plants have the benefit of the rains4 ,a good rain seems to do them more good than any watering4 ,should your plants of cabbage1 lettuce1 beets or cauliflower by any chance get frozen1 do not give them up for lost1 for the chances are that the following simple treatment will pull them through3 ,in the first place1 shade them thoroughly from the sun2 in the second1 drench them with cold water1 the coldest you can get--if you have to break the ice for it1 so much the better4 ,try1 however1 to prevent its happening again1 as they will be less able to resist subsequent injury4 ,in hot weather1 where watering and ventilation are neglected1 the plants will sometimes become infested with the green aphis1 which under such conditions multiplies with almost incredible rapidity4 ,,hardening ,,off3 ,for five days or a week before setting plants in the field they should be thoroughly hardened off4 ,if they have been given plenty of air this treatment will mean little change for them--simply exposing them more each day1 until for a few nights they are left entirely without protection4 ,they will then be ready for setting out in the open1 an operation which is described in the next chapter4 ,,starting ,,plants ,,outside ,much of the above is applicable also to the starting of plants out-of- doors1 for second and for succession crops1 such as celery and late cabbage4 ,select for the outside seed-bed the most thoroughly pulverized spot to be found1 enriched and lightened with fine manure4 ,mark off rows a foot apart1 and to the necessary depth2 sow the seed evenly2 firm in if the soil is dry1 cover lightly with the back of the rake and roll or smooth with the back of the spade1 or of a hoe1 along the drills4 ,the seed1 according to variety1 will begin to push through in from four to twenty days4 ,at all times keep the seed-bed clear of weeds2 and keep the soil between the rows constantly cultivated4 ,not unless it is very dry will watering be necessary1 but if it is required1 give a thorough soaking toward evening4 ,as the cabbage1 celery and similar plants come along it will add to their sturdiness and stockiness to shear off the tops--about half of the large leaves--once or twice after the plants have attained a height of about six inches4 ,if the precautions concerning seed and soil which ,i have given are heeded and the details of the work of planting1 transplanting and care are carried out1 planting time 7,april7 will find the prospective gardener with a supply of good1 stocky1 healthy plants on hand1 and impatient to get them into that carefully prepared garden spot4 ,all of this work has been--or should have been--interesting1 but that which follows in the next chapter is more so4 ,,chapter ,,ix ,,sowing ,,and ,,planting ,the importance of having good seeds has already been declared4 ,they must not only grow1 but grow into what we have bought them for--be true to name4 ,without the latter quality we cannot be sure of good gardens1 and without the former they will not be full ones4 ,a meagre stand from seeds properly sown is a rather exasperating and discouraging experience to encounter4 ,the cost for fertilizing and preparing the land is just as much1 and the cost of cultivating very nearly as much1 when the rows are full of thrifty plants or strung out with poor ones4 ,whether you use ten cents' worth or ten dollars' worth1 the best seed to be had will be the most economical to buy--to say nothing of the satisfaction that full rows give4 ,and yet good seedsmen are more thoughtlessly and unjustly abused in the matter of seed vitality than in any other4 ,inexperienced gardeners seem universally to have the conviction that the only thing required in seed sowing is to cover the seed with soil4 ,what sort of soil it is1 or in what condition1 or at what depth or temperature the seed is planted1 are questions about which they do not trouble themselves to think4 ,two conditions--moisture and warmth--are necessary to induce germination of seeds1 no matter how full of life they may be2 and as was shown in the preceding chapter the different varieties have some choice as to the degree of each1 especially of temperature4 ,this means of course that some commonsense must be used in planting1 and when planting outdoors1 where we cannot regulate the temperature to our need1 we simply must regulate our seed sowing to its dictates1 no matter how impatient we may be4 ,to insure the best possible germination1 and thus the best gardening1 we must1 first of all then1 settle the question of temperature when sowing out-of-doors4 ,for practical work it serves to divide the garden vegetables into two groups1 though in planting1 the special suggestions in the following chapter should be consulted4 ,,when ,,to ,,sow ,,outdoors ,sow from the end of ,march to the beginning of ,may1 or when plum and peach trees bloom1 the following3 ,beet ,cabbage ,carrot ,cauliflower ,celery ,endive ,kale ,kohlrabi ,lettuce ,onions ,parsley ,parsnip ,peas ,radish ,spinach ,turnip ,water-cress ,sow from the beginning of ,may to the middle of ,june1 or when apple trees bloom1 the following3 ,beans ,corn ,cucumber ,melon1 musk ,melon1 water ,okra ,pumpkin ,squash ,tomato ,getting the seed to sprout1 however1 is only the first step in the game2 they must be provided with the means of immediately beginning to grow4 ,this means that they should not be left to germinate in loosely packed soil1 full of air spaces1 ready to dry out at the first opportunity1 and to let the tiny seed roots be shriveled up and die4 ,the soil should touch the seed--be pressed close about it on all sides1 so that the first tiny tap root will issue immediately into congenial surroundings where it can instantly take hold4 ,such conditions can be found only in a seed-bed fine but light enough to pack1 reasonably rich and sufficiently moist1 and where1 in addition to this1 the seed has been properly planted4 ,,methods ,,of ,,planting ,the seed-bed1 as it is called1 is the surface prepared to receive the seed1 whether for a patch of radishes or an acre of onions4 ,for crops to be sown directly where they are to go1 the chapter on ,preparation of the ,soil takes us to this point1 and as stated at the conclusion of that chapter1 the final preparation of the bed should be made only immediately prior to its use4 ,having1 then1 good seeds on hand and the soil properly prepared to receive them1 the only problem remaining is what way they shall be put in4 ,the different habits of growth characteristic of different plants make it patent at the outset that there must be different methods of planting1 for very evidently a cabbage1 which occupies but three or four square feet of space and stays in one place to make a head1 will not require the same treatment as a winter squash1 roaming all over the garden and then escaping under the fence to hide some of its best fruit in the tall grass outside4 ,the three systems of planting usually employed are known as drills1 rows and hills4 ,i do not remember ever seeing a definition giving the exact distinctions between them2 and in horticultural writing they seem to be used1 to some extent at least1 interchangeably4 ,as a rule drills refer to the growing of plants continuously in rows1 such as onions1 carrots or spinach4 ,rows refer to the growing of plants at fixed distances apart in the rows such as cabbage1 or potatoes--the cultivation1 except hand weeding and hoeing1 being all done in one direction1 as with drills4 ,hills refer to the growing of plants usually at equal distances1 four feet or more apart each way1 with cultivating done in both directions1 as with melons and squashes4 ,i describe the different methods at length so that the reader may know more definitely just what is meant by the special instructions given in the following text4 ,,sowing ,,the ,,seed ,if one observes the suggestions as to temperature just given1 and the following precautions in placing the seed within the soil1 failure of good seed to germinate is practically impossible4 ,in the first place1 plant on a freshly prepared surface1 always just before a rain if possible1 except in the case of very small seeds1 when just after a rain will be better4 ,if the soil is at all dry1 or likely to be followed by a spell of hot1 dry weather1 always firm by using the back of the hoe for small seed1 or the ball of the foot for larger ones1 such as peas1 beans or corn1 to press the seed firmly and evenly into the soil before covering4 ,then when the soil is covered in over the seed1 firm along the top of the row very lightly1 just enough to mark it and hold the soil in place4 ,the depth of the drill furrow in which the seed is to be sown will depend 7#a7 on the variety of vegetable1 7#b7 on the season of planting1 and 7#c7 on weather conditions4 ,remember that the seed must be supplied with moisture both to germinate and to continue to exist after germination2 and also that it must have soil through which the air can to some extent penetrate4 ,keeping these things in mind1 common sense dictates that seed planted in the spring1 or during a wet spell of weather1 will not need to be put in as deeply as should the same seed in summer or early autumn1 or during a hot1 dry spell4 ,the old general rule is1 to cover seed planted under glass1 where the moisture can be controlled1 to a depth of two or three times its diameter2 and out-of-doors1 to four or five times4 ,i should say these depths were the minimums desirable4 ,in other words1 the smallest seed1 such as onion1 carrot1 lettuce1 will go in one-quarter to one-half inch deep4 ,beets1 spinach1 parsnips and other medium-sized seed one-half to one inch deep1 and peas1 beans1 corn1 etc41 two to four inches deep-- usually near the first figure4 ,after the seed is sown it is of course desirable to keep the ground from baking or crusting on top1 as it is likely to do after a morning rain followed directly by hot sun4 ,if the seed sprouts have not yet reached the surface of the soil1 rake very lightly across the rows with an iron rake2 if they have broken through1 work as close as possible to the row4 ,the best implement ,i have ever seen for this purpose is the disc attachment of the double wheel hoe--see ,implements4 ,an ordinarily good garden loam1 into which the desirable quantity of short manure has been worked1 will give little trouble by raking4 ,in a clay soil1 it often will pay1 on a small scale1 to sift leaf mould1 sphagnum moss1 or some other light porous covering1 over the rows1 especially for small seed4 ,the special seed-bed1 for starting late cabbage or celery1 may easily be sheltered4 ,in very hot1 dry weather this method will be a great help4 ,,setting ,,out ,,plants ,the reader has not forgotten1 of course1 that plants as well as seeds must go into the well managed garden4 ,we have already mentioned the hardening-off process to which they must be subjected before going into the open ground4 ,the flats should also be given a copious watering several hours1 or the day before1 setting out4 ,all being ready1 with your rows made straight and marked off at the correct distances1 lift out the plants with a trowel or transplanting fork1 and tear or cut them apart with a knife1 keeping as much soil as possible with each ball of roots4 ,distribute them at their positions1 but not so many at a time that any will dry out before you get them in place4 ,get down on your hands and knees1 and1 straddling the row1 proceed to set4 ,with the left hand1 or a trowel or dibber if the ground is not soft1 make a hole large enough to take the roots and the better part of the stem1 place the plant in position and firm into place by bearing down with the backs of the knuckles1 on either side4 ,proceed so to the end of the row1 being careful to keep your toes from undoing your good work behind you1 and then finish the job by walking back over the row1 still further firming in each plant by pressing down the soil at either side of the stem simultaneously with the balls of the feet4 ,when all the rows are completed1 go over the surface with the iron rake1 and you will have a job thoroughly done and neatly finished4 ,if the weather and soil are exceptionally dry it may be necessary to take the additional precautions1 when planting1 of putting a pint or so of water in each hole 7never on the surface7 previous to planting2 or of puddling the roots in a thick mixture of rich soil and water4 ,the large leaves also should be trimmed back one-half4 ,in the case of plants that are too tall or succulent1 this should be done in any case --better a day or two previous to setting out4 ,,after-,,care ,transplanting should be done whenever possible in dull weather or before rain--or even during it if you really would deserve the name of gardener6 ,if it must be done when the sun continues strong1 shade the plants from1 say1 ten to three o'clock1 for a day or two1 with half sheets of old newspapers held in tent-shaped position over the plants by stones or earth4 ,if it is necessary to give water1 do it toward evening4 ,if the plants have been properly set1 however1 only extreme circumstances will render this necessary4 ,keep a sharp lookout for cut-worms1 maggots or other enemies described in ,chapter ,,xiii4 ,and above all1 ,,cultivate4 ,never let the soil become crusted1 even if there is not a weed in sight4 ,keep the soil loosened up1 for that will keep things growing4 ,,chapter ,x ,,the ,,cultivation ,,of ,,vegetables ,before taking up the garden vegetables individually1 ,i shall outline the general practice of cultivation1 which applies to all4 ,the purposes of cultivation are three--to get rid of weeds1 and to stimulate growth by 7#a7 letting air into the soil and freeing unavailable plant food1 and 7#b7 by conserving moisture4 ,as to weeds1 the gardener of any experience need not be told the importance of keeping his crops clean4 ,he has learned from bitter and costly experience the price of letting them get anything resembling a start4 ,he knows that one or two days' growth1 after they are well up1 followed perhaps by a day or so of rain1 may easily double or treble the work of cleaning a patch of onions or carrots1 and that where weeds have attained any size they cannot be taken out of sowed crops without doing a great deal of injury4 ,he also realizes1 or should1 that every day's growth means just so much available plant food stolen from under the very roots of his legitimate crops4 ,instead of letting the weeds get away with any plant food1 he should be furnishing more1 for clean and frequent cultivation will not only break the soil up mechanically1 but let in air1 moisture and heat--all essential in effecting those chemical changes necessary to convert non- available into available plant food4 ,long before the science in the case was discovered1 the soil cultivators had learned by observation the necessity of keeping the soil nicely loosened about their growing crops4 ,even the lanky and untutored aborigine saw to it that his squaw not only put a bad fish under the hill of maize but plied her shell hoe over it4 ,plants need to breathe4 ,their roots need air4 ,you might as well expect to find the rosy glow of happiness on the wan cheeks of a cotton-mill child slave as to expect to see the luxuriant dark green of healthy plant life in a suffocated garden4 ,important as the question of air is1 that of water ranks beside it4 ,you may not see at first what the matter of frequent cultivation has to do with water4 ,but let us stop a moment and look into it4 ,take a strip of blotting paper1 dip one end in water1 and watch the moisture run up hill1 soak up through the blotter4 ,the scientists have labeled that capillary attraction--the water crawls up little invisible tubes formed by the texture of the blotter4 ,now take a similar piece1 cut it across1 hold the two cut edges firmly together1 and try it again4 ,the moisture refuses to cross the line3 the connection has been severed4 ,in the same way the water stored in the soil after a rain begins at once to escape again into the atmosphere4 ,that on the surface evaporates first1 and that which has soaked in begins to soak in through the soil to the surface4 ,it is leaving your garden1 through the millions of soil tubes1 just as surely as if you had a two-inch pipe and a gasoline engine1 pumping it into the gutter night and day6 ,save your garden by stopping the waste4 ,it is the easiest thing in the world to do--cut the pipe in two4 ,and the knife to do it with is-- dust4 ,by frequent cultivation of the surface soil--not more than one or two inches deep for most small vegetables--the soil tubes are kept broken1 and a mulch of dust is maintained4 ,try to get over every part of your garden1 especially where it is not shaded1 once in every ten days or two weeks4 ,does that seem like too much work8 ,you can push your wheel hoe through1 and thus keep the dust mulch as a constant protection1 as fast as you can walk4 ,if you wait for the weeds1 you will nearly have to crawl through1 doing more or less harm by disturbing your growing plants1 losing all the plant food 7and they will take the cream7 which they have consumed1 and actually putting in more hours of infinitely more disagreeable work4 ,a stitch in time saves nine6 ,have your thread and needle ready beforehand6 ,if ,i knew how to give greater emphasis to this subject of thorough cultivation1 ,i should be tempted to devote the rest of this chapter to it4 ,if the beginner at gardening has not been convinced by the facts given1 there is only one thing left to convince him--experience4 ,having given so much space to the reason for constant care in this matter1 the question of methods naturally follows4 ,i want to repeat here1 my previous advice--by all means get a wheel hoe4 ,the simplest sorts cost only a few dollars1 and will not only save you an infinite amount of time and work1 but do the work better1 very much better than it can be done by hand4 ,you can grow good vegetables1 especially if your garden is a very small one1 without one of these labor-savers1 but ,i can assure you that you will never regret the small investment necessary to procure it4 ,with a wheel hoe1 the work of preserving the soil mulch becomes very simple4 ,if one has not a wheel hoe1 for small areas very rapid work can be done with the scuffle hoe4 ,the matter of keeping weeds cleaned out of the rows and between the plants in the rows is not so quickly accomplished4 ,where hand-work is necessary1 let it be done at once4 ,here are a few practical suggestions that will reduce this work to a minimum1 7#a7 ,get at this work while the ground is soft2 as soon as the soil begins to dry out after a rain is the best time4 ,under such conditions the weeds will pull out by the roots1 without breaking off4 7#b7 ,immediately before weeding1 go over the rows with a wheel hoe1 cutting shallow1 but just as close as possible1 leaving a narrow1 plainly visible strip which must be hand- weeded4 ,the best tool for this purpose is the double wheel hoe with disc attachment1 or hoes for large plants4 7#c7 ,see to it that not only the weeds are pulled but that every inch of soil surface is broken up4 ,it is fully as important that the weeds just sprouting be destroyed1 as that the larger ones be pulled up4 ,one stroke of the weeder or the fingers will destroy a hundred weed seedlings in less time than one weed can be pulled out after it gets a good start4 7#d7 ,use one of the small hand-weeders until you become skilled with it4 ,not only may more work be done but the fingers will be saved unnecessary wear4 ,the skilful use of the wheel hoe can be acquired through practice only4 ,the first thing to learn is that it is necessary to watch the wheels only3 the blades1 disc or rakes will take care of themselves4 ,other suggestions will be found in the chapter on ,implements4 ,the operation of hilling consists in drawing up the soil about the stems of growing plants1 usually at the time of second or third hoeing4 ,it used to be the practice to hill everything that could be hilled up to the eyebrows1 but it has gradually been discarded for what is termed level culture2 and the reader will readily see the reason1 from what has been said about the escape of moisture from the surface of the soil2 for of course the two upper sides of the hill1 which may be represented by an equilateral triangle with one side horizontal1 give more exposed surface than the level surface represented by the base4 ,in wet soils or seasons hilling may be advisable1 but very seldom otherwise4 ,it has the additional disadvantage of making it difficult to maintain the soil mulch which is so desirable4 ,,rotation ,,of ,,crops ,there is another thing to be considered in making each vegetable do its best1 and that is crop rotation1 or the following of any vegetable with a different sort at the next planting4 ,with some vegetables1 such as cabbage1 this is almost imperative1 and practically all are helped by it4 ,even onions1 which are popularly supposed to be the proving exception to the rule1 are healthier1 and do as well after some other crop1 provided the soil is as finely pulverized and rich as a previous crop of onions would leave it4 ,here are the fundamental rules of crop rotation3 7#a7 ,crops of the same vegetable1 or vegetables of the same family 7such as turnips and cabbage7 should not follow each other4 7#b7 ,vegetables that feed near the surface1 like corn1 should follow deep-rooting crops4 7#c7 ,vines or leaf crops should follow root crops4 7#d7 ,quick-growing crops should follow those occupying the land all season4 ,these are the principles which should determine the rotations to be followed in individual cases4 ,the proper way to attend to this matter is when making the planting plan4 ,you will then have time to do it properly1 and will need to give it no further thought for a year4 ,with the above suggestions in mind1 and put to use1 it will not be difficult to give the crops mentioned in the following chapter those special attentions which are needed to make them do their very best4 ,,chapter ,,xi ,,the ,,vegetables ,,and ,,their ,,special ,,needs ,the garden vegetables may be considered in three groups1 in each of which the various varieties are given somewhat similar treatment3 the root crops1 such as beets and carrots2 the leaf crops1 such as cabbage and lettuce2 the fruit crops1 such as melons and tomatoes4 ,,root ,,crops ,under the first section we will consider3 ,beet ,carrot ,kohlrabi ,leek ,onion ,parsnip ,potato ,salsify ,turnip ,any of these may be sown in ,april1 in drills 7with the exception of potatoes7 twelve to eighteen inches apart4 ,the soil must be rich and finely worked1 in order that the roots will be even and smooth--in poor or ill-prepared soil they are likely to be misshapen1 or sprangling4 ,they must be thinned out to the proper distances1 which should be done if possible on a cloudy day1 hand-weeded as often as may be required1 and given clean and frequent cultivation4 ,all1 with the exception of leeks and potatoes1 are given level culture4 ,all will be greatly benefited1 when about one-third grown1 by a top dressing of nitrate of soda4 ,beet3--,beets do best in a rather light soil4 ,those for earliest use are started under glass 7as described previously7 and set out six to seven inches apart in rows a foot apart4 ,the first outdoor sowing is made as soon as the soil is ready in spring1 and the seed should be put in thick1 as not all will come through if bad weather is encountered4 ,when thinning out1 the small plants that are removed1 tops and roots cooked together1 make delicious greens4 ,the late crop1 for fall and winter use1 sow the last part of ,june4 ,for this crop the larger varieties are used1 and on rich soil will need six to eight inches in the row and fifteen inches between rows4 ,carrot3--,carrots also like a soil that is rather on the sandy side1 and on account of the depth to which the roots go1 it should be deep and fine4 ,the quality will be better if the soil is not too rich4 ,a few for extra early use may be grown in the hotbeds or frame4 ,if radishes and carrots are sown together1 in alternating rows six inches apart1 the former will be used by the time the carrots need the room1 and in this way a single #c x #f ft4 sash will yield a good supply for the home garden4 ,use ,chantenay or ,ox-,heart 7see ,chapter ,,xii7 for this purpose4 ,the late crop is sometimes sown between rows of onions1 skipping every third row1 during ,june1 and left to mature when the onions are harvested2 but unless the ground is exceptionally free from weeds1 the plan is not likely to prove successful4 ,kohlrabi3--,while not truly a root crop--the edible portion being a peculiar globular enlargement of the stem--its culture is similar1 as it may be sown in drills and thinned out4 ,frequently1 however1 it is started in the seed-bed and transplanted1 the main crop 7for market7 being sown in ,may or ,june4 ,a few of these from time to time will prove very acceptable for the home table4 ,they should be used when quite young2 as small as two inches being the tenderest4 ,leek3--,to attain its best the leek should be started in the seed-bed1 late in ,april1 and transplanted in late ,june1 to the richest1 heaviest soil available4 ,hill up from time to time to blanch lower part of stalk2 or a few choice specimens may be had by fitting cardboard collars around the stem and drawing the earth up to these1 not touching the stalk with earth4 ,onions3--,onions for use in the green state are grown from white sets1 put out early in ,april1 three to four inches apart in rows twelve inches apart2 or from seed sown the previous fall and protected with rough manure during the winter4 ,these will be succeeded by the crop from prickers or seedlings started under glass in ,january or ,february4 ,as onions are not transplanted before going to the garden1 sow directly in the soil rather than in flats4 ,it is safest to cover the bed with one-half inch to one inch of coarse sand1 and sow the seed in this4 ,to get stocky plants trim back twice1 taking off the upper half of leaves each time1 and trim back the roots one-half to two- thirds at the time of setting out1 which may be any time after the middle of ,april4 ,these in turn will be succeeded by onions coming from the crop sown from seed in the open4 ,the above is for onions eaten raw in the green state when less than half grown4 ,for the main crop for bulbs1 the home supply is best grown from prickers as described above4 ,prize-taker and ,gibraltar are mostly used for this purpose1 growing to the size of the large ,spanish onions sold at grocery stores4 ,for onions to be kept for late winter and spring use1 grow from seed1 sowing outdoors as early as possible4 ,no vegetable needs a richer or more perfectly prepared soil than the onion2 and especial care must be taken never to let the weeds get a start4 ,they are gathered after the tops dry down and wither1 when they should be pulled1 put in broad rows for several days in the sun1 and then spread out flat1 not more than four inches deep1 under cover with plenty of light and air4 ,before severe freezing store in slatted barrels1 as described in ,chapter ,,xiv4 ,parsnip3--,sow as early as possible1 in deep rich soil1 but where no water will stand during fall and winter4 ,the seed germinates very slowly1 so the seed-bed should be very finely prepared4 ,they will be ready for use in the fall1 but are much better after the first frosts4 ,for method of keeping see ,chapter ,,xiv4 ,potato3--,if your garden is a small one1 buy your main supply of potatoes from some nearby farmer1 first trying half a bushel or so to be sure of the quality4 ,purchase in late ,september or ,october when the crop is being dug and the price is low4 ,for an extra early and choice supply for the home garden1 start a peck or so in early ,march1 as follows3 ,select an early variety1 seed of good size and clean2 cut to pieces containing one or two eyes1 and pack closely together on end in flats of coarse sand4 ,give these full light and heat1 and by the middle to end of ,april they will have formed dense masses of roots1 and nice1 strong1 stocky sprouts1 well leaved out4 ,dig out furrows two and a half feet apart1 and incorporate well rotted manure in the bottom1 with the soil covering this until the furrow is left two to three inches deep4 ,set the sprouted tubers1 pressing firmly into the soil1 about twelve inches apart1 and cover in1 leaving them thus three to four inches below the surface4 ,keep well cultivated1 give a light top dressing of nitrate of soda--and surprise all your neighbors6 ,this system has not yet come extensively into use1 but is practically certain of producing excellent results4 ,for the main crop1 if you have room1 cut good seed to one or two eyes1 leaving as much of the tuber as possible to each piece1 and plant thirteen inches apart in rows three feet apart4 ,cultivate deeply until the plants are eight to ten inches high and then shallow but frequently4 ,as the vines begin to spread1 hill up moderately1 making a broad1 low ridge4 ,handle potato-bugs and blight as directed in ,chapter ,,xiii4 ,for harvesting see ,chapter ,,xiv4 ,while big crops may be grown on heavy soils1 the quality will be very much better on sandy1 well drained soils4 ,planting on well rotted sod1 or after green manuring1 such as clover or rye1 will also improve the looks and quality of the crop4 ,like onions1 they need a high percentage of potash in manures or fertilizers used2 this may be given in sulphate of potash4 ,avoid planting on ground enriched with fresh barnyard manure or immediately after a dressing of lime4 ,salsify3--,the vegetable oyster1 or salsify1 is to my taste the most delicious root vegetable grown4 ,it is handled practically in the same way as the parsnip1 but needs1 if possible1 ground even more carefully prepared1 in order to keep the main root from sprangling4 ,if a fine light soil cannot be had for planting1 it will pay to hoe or hand-plow furrows where the drills are to be--not many will be needed1 and put in specially prepared soil1 in which the seed may get a good start4 ,radish3--,to be of good crisp quality1 it is essential with radishes to grow them just as quickly as possible4 ,the soil should be rather sandy and not rich in fresh manure or other nitrogenous fertilizers1 as this tends to produce an undesirable amount of leaves at the expense of the root4 ,if the ground is at all dry give a thorough wetting after planting1 which may be on the surface1 as the seeds germinate so quickly that they will be up before the soil has time to crust over4 ,gypsum or land-plaster1 sown on white and worked into the soil1 will improve both crop and quality4 ,they are easily raised under glass1 in autumn or spring in frames1 requiring only forty to fifty degrees at night4 ,it is well to plant in the hotbed1 after a crop of lettuce4 ,or sow as a double crop1 as suggested under ,carrots4 ,for outside crops1 sow every ten days or two weeks4 ,turnip3--,while turnips will thrive well on almost any soil1 the quality--which is somewhat questionable at the best--will be much better on sandy or even gravelly soil4 ,avoid fresh manures as much as possible1 as the turnip is especially susceptible to scab and worms4 ,they are best when quite small and for the home table a succession of sowing1 only a few at a time1 will give the best results4 ,,leaf ,,crops ,under leaf crops are considered also those of which the stalk or the flower heads form the edible portion1 such as celery and cauliflower4 ,asparagus ,brussels ,sprouts ,cabbage ,cauliflower ,celery ,endive ,kale ,lettuce ,parsley ,rhubarb ,spinach ,the quality of all these will depend largely upon growing them rapidly and without check from the seed-bed to the table4 ,they are all great nitrogen-consumers and therefore take kindly to liberal supplies of yard manure1 which is high in nitrogen4 ,for celery the manure is best applied to some preceding crop1 such as early cabbage4 ,the others will take it straight4 ,most of these plants are best started under glass or in the seed-bed and transplanted later to permanent positions4 ,they will all be helped greatly by a top-dressing of nitrate of soda1 worked into the soil as soon as they have become established4 ,this1 if it fails to produce the dark green healthy growth characteristic of its presence1 should be followed by a second application after two or three weeks--care being taken1 of course1 to use it with reason and restraint1 as directed in ,chapter ,,vi4 ,another method of growing good cabbages and similar plants1 where the ground is not sufficiently rich to carry the crop through1 is to manure in the hill1 either yard or some concentrated manure being used4 ,if yard manure1 incorporate a good forkful with the soil where each plant is to go4 7,if any considerable number are being set1 it will of course be covered in a furrow--first being trampled down1 with the plow74 ,another way1 sure of producing results1 and not inconvenient for a few hundred plants1 is to mark out the piece1 dig out with a spade or hoe a hole some five inches deep at each mark1 dilute poultry manure in an old pail until about the consistency of thick mud1 and put a little less than half a trowelful in each hole4 ,mix with the soil and cover1 marking the spot with the back of the hoe1 and then set the plants4 ,by this method1 followed by a top-dressing of nitrate of soda1 ,i have repeatedly grown fine cabbage1 cauliflower1 lettuce and sprouts4 ,cotton-seed meal is also very valuable for manuring in the hill--about a handful to a plant1 as it is rich in nitrogen and rapidly decomposes4 ,the cabbage group is sometimes hilled up1 but if set well down and frequently cultivated1 on most soils this will not be necessary4 ,they all do best in very deep1 moderately heavy soil1 heavily manured and rather moist4 ,an application of lime some time before planting will be a beneficial precaution4 ,with this group rotation also is almost imperative4 ,the most troublesome enemies attacking these plants are3 the flea- beetle1 the cabbage-worm1 the cabbage-maggot 7root7 and club-root2 directions for fighting all of which will be found in the following chapter4 ,asparagus3--,asparagus is rightly esteemed one of the very best spring vegetables4 ,there is a general misconception1 however--due to the old methods of growing it--concerning the difficulty of having a home supply4 ,as now cared for1 it is one of the easiest of all vegetables to grow1 when once the beds are set and brought to bearing condition4 ,nor is it difficult to make the bed1 and the only reason why asparagus is not more universally found in the home garden1 beside that mentioned above1 is because one has to wait a year for results4 ,in selecting a spot for the asparagus bed1 pick out the earliest and best drained soil available1 even if quite sandy it will do well4 ,plow or dig out trenches three feet apart and sixteen to twenty inches deep4 ,in the bottoms of these tramp down firmly six to eight inches of old1 thoroughly rotted manure4 ,cover with six to eight inches of good soil-- not that coming from the bottom of the trench--and on this set the crowns or root-clumps--preferably one-year ones--being careful to spread the roots out evenly1 and covering with enough soil to hold in position1 making them firm in the soil4 ,the roots are set one foot apart4 ,then fill in level1 thus leaving the crowns four to six inches below the surface4 ,as the stalks appear give a light dressing of nitrate of soda and keep the crop cleanly cultivated4 7,lettuce1 beets1 beans or any of the small garden vegetables may be grown between the asparagus rows during the first part of the season1 for the first two years1 thus getting some immediate return from labor and manure74 ,the stalks should not be cut until the second spring after planting and then only very lightly4 ,after that full crops may be had4 ,after the first season1 besides keeping cleanly cultivated at all times1 in the fall clear off and burn all tops and weeds and apply a good coating of manure4 ,dig or lightly cultivate this in the spring1 applying also a dressing of nitrate of soda1 as soon as the stalks appear4 ,if the yield is not heavy1 give a dressing of bone or of the basic fertilizers mentioned earlier4 ,it is not difficult to grow plants from seed1 but is generally more satisfactory to get the roots from some reliable seedsman4 ,broccoli3-,the broccoli makes a flower head as does the cauliflower4 ,it is1 however1 inferior in quality and is not grown to any extent where the latter will succeed4 ,it has the one advantage of being hardier and thus can be grown where the cauliflower is too uncertain to make its culture worth while4 ,for culture directions see ,cauliflower4 ,brussels ,sprouts3--,in my opinion this vegetable leaves the cabbage almost as far behind as the cauliflower does4 ,it is1 if anything1 more easily grown than cabbage1 except that the young plants do not seem able to stand quite so much cold4 ,when mature1 however1 it seems to stand almost any amount of freezing1 and it is greatly improved by a few smart frosts1 although it is very good when succeeding the spring crop of cauliflower4 ,it takes longer to mature than either cabbage or cauliflower4 ,cabbage3--,cabbage is one of the few vegetables which may be had in almost as good quality from the green-grocer as it can be grown at home1 and as it takes up considerable space1 it may often be advisable to omit the late sorts from the home garden if space is very limited4 ,the early supply1 however1 should come from the garden--some people think it should stay there1 but ,i do not agree with them4 ,properly cooked it is a very delicious vegetable4 ,what has already been said covers largely the conditions for successful culture4 ,the soil should be of the richest and deepest1 and well dressed with lime4 ,lettuce is grown with advantage between the rows of early cabbage1 and after both are harvested the ground is used for celery4 ,the early varieties may be set as closely as eighteen inches in the row1 and twenty-four between rows4 ,the lettuce is taken out before the row is needed4 ,the late crop is started in the outside seed-bed about ,june #ast to #aeth4 ,it will help give better plants to cut back the tops once or twice during growth1 and an occasional good soaking in dry weather will prove very beneficial4 ,they are set in the field during ,july1 and as it often is very dry at this time1 those extra precautions mentioned in directions for setting out plants1 in the preceding chapter1 should be taken4 ,if the newly set plants are dusted with wood ashes1 it will be a wise precaution against insect pests4 ,cauliflower3--,the cauliflower is easily the queen of the cabbage group3 also it is the most difficult to raise4 7#a7 ,it is the most tender and should not be set out quite so early4 7#b7 ,it is even a ranker feeder than the cabbage1 and just before heading up will be greatly improved by applications of liquid manure4 7#c7 ,it must have water1 and unless the soil is a naturally damp one1 irrigation1 either by turning the hose on between the rows1 or directly around the plants1 must be given--two or three times should be sufficient4 7#d7 ,the heads must be protected from the sun4 ,this is accomplished by tying up the points of leaves1 so as to form a tent1 or breaking them 7snap the mid- rib only71 and folding them down over the flower4 7#e7 ,they must be used as soon as ready1 for they deteriorate very quickly4 ,take them while the head is still solid and firm1 before the little flower tips begin to open out4 ,celery3--,this is another favorite vegetable which has a bad reputation to live down4 ,they used to plant it at the bottom of a twelve-inch trench and spend all kinds of unnecessary labor over it4 ,it can be grown perfectly well on the level and in the average home garden4 ,as to soil1 celery prefers a moist one1 but it must be well drained4 ,the home supply can1 however1 be grown in the ordinary garden1 especially if water may be had in case of injurious drouth4 ,for the early crop the best sorts are the ,white ,plume and ,golden ,self- blanching4 ,seed is sown in the last part of ,february or first part of ,march4 ,the seed is very fine and the greatest pains must be taken to give the best possible treatment4 ,the seed should be pressed into the soil and barely covered with very light soil--half sifted leaf-mould or moss4 ,never let the boxes dry out1 and as soon as the third or fourth leaf comes1 transplant2 cut back the outside leaves1 and set as deeply as possible without covering the crown4 ,the roots also1 if long1 should be cut back4 ,this trimming of leaves and roots should be given at each transplanting1 thus assuring a short stocky growth4 ,culture of the early crop1 after setting out1 is easier than that for the winter crop4 ,there are two systems3 7#a7 ,the plants are set in rows three or four feet apart1 six inches in the row1 and blanched1 either by drawing up the earth in a hill and working it in about the stalks with the fingers 7this operation is termed handling71 or else by the use of boards laid on edge along the rows1 on either side4 7#b7 ,the other method is called the new celery culture1 and in it the plants are set in beds eight inches apart each way 7ten or twelve inches for large varieties71 the idea being to make the tops of the plants supply the shade for the blanching4 ,this method has two disadvantages3 it requires extra heavy manuring and preparation of soil1 and plenty of moisture2 and even with this aid the stalks never attain the size of those grown in rows4 ,the early crop should be ready in ,august4 ,the quality is never so good as that of the later crops4 ,for the main or winter crop1 sow the seed about ,april #ast4 ,the same extra care must be taken as in sowing under glass4 ,in hot1 dry weather1 shade the beds2 never let them dry out4 ,transplant to second bed as soon as large enough to develop root system1 before setting in the permanent position4 ,when setting in late ,june or ,july1 be sure to put the plants in up to the hearts1 not over1 and set firmly4 ,give level clean culture until about ,august #aeth1 when1 with the hoe1 wheel hoe or cultivator1 earth should be drawn up along the rows1 followed by handling4 ,the plants for early use are trenched 7see ,chapter ,,xiv71 but that left for late use must be banked up1 which is done by making the hills higher still1 by the use of the spade4 ,for further treatment see ,chapter ,,xiv4 ,care must be taken not to perform any work in the celery patch while the plants are wet4 ,corn salad or ,fetticus3--,this salad plant is not largely grown4 ,it is planted about the middle of ,april and given the same treatment as spinach4 ,chicory3--,this also is little grown4 ,the ,witloof1 a kind now being used1 is however much more desirable4 ,sow in drills1 thin to five or six inches1 and in ,august or ,september1 earth up1 as with early celery1 to blanch the stalks1 which are used for salads1 or boiled4 ,cut-back roots1 planted in boxes of sand placed in a moderately warm dark place and watered1 send up a growth of tender leaves1 making a fine salad4 ,chervil3--,curled chervil is grown the same as parsley and used for garnishing or seasoning4 ,the root variety resembles the stump- rooted carrot1 the quality being improved by frost4 ,sow in ,april or ,september4 ,treat like parsnip4 ,chives3--,leaves are used for imparting an onion flavor4 ,a clump of roots set put will last many years4 ,cress3--,another salad little grown in the home garden4 ,to many1 however1 its spicy1 pungent flavor is particularly pleasing4 ,it is easily grown1 but should be planted frequently--about every two weeks4 ,sow in drills1 twelve to fourteen inches apart4 ,its only special requirement is moisture4 ,water is not necessary1 but if a bed can be started in some clean stream or pool1 it will take care of itself4 ,upland cress or pepper grass grows in ordinary garden soil1 being one of the very first salads4 ,sow in ,april1 in drills twelve or fourteen inches apart4 ,it grows so rapidly that it may be had in five or six weeks4 ,sow frequently for succession1 as it runs to seed very quickly4 ,chard3--,see ,spinach4 ,dandelion3--,this is an excellent greens1 but as the crop is not ready until second season from planting it is not grown as much as it should be4 ,sow the seed in ,april--very shallow4 ,it is well to put in with it a few lettuce or turnip seed to mark the rows4 ,drills should be one foot apart1 and plants thinned to eight to twelve inches4 ,the quality is infinitely superior to the wild dandelion and may be still further improved by blanching4 ,if one is content to take a small crop1 a cutting may be made in the fall1 the same season as the sowing4 ,endive3--,this salad vegetable is best for fall use4 ,sow in ,june or ,july1 in drills eighteen to twenty-four inches apart1 and thin to ten to twelve inches4 ,to be fit for use it must be blanched1 either by tying up with raffia in a loose bunch1 or by placing two wide boards in an inverted ,v shape over the rows2 and in either case be sure the leaves are dry when doing this4 ,kale3--,kale is a non-heading member of the cabbage group1 used as greens1 both in spring and winter4 ,it is improved by frost1 but even then is a little tough and heavy4 ,its chief merit lies in the fact that it is easily had when greens of the better sorts are hard to get1 as it may be left out and cut as needed during winter--even from under snow4 ,the fall crop is given the same treatment as late cabbage4 ,siberian kale is sown in ,september and wintered-over like spinach4 ,lettuce3--,lettuce is grown in larger quantities than all the other salad plants put together4 ,by the use of hotbeds it may be had practically the year round4 ,the first sowing for the spring under-glass crop is made in ,january or ,february4 ,these are handled as for the planting outside--see ,chapter ,,viii4--but are set in the frames six to eight inches each way1 according to variety4 ,ventilate freely during the day when over #ee give #de at night4 ,water only when needed1 but then thoroughly1 and preferably only on mornings of bright sunny days4 ,the plants for first outdoor crops are handled as already described4 ,after ,april #ast planting should be made every two weeks4 ,during ,july and ,august the seed-beds must be kept shaded and moist4 ,in ,august1 first sowing for fall under-glass crop is made1 which can be matured in coldframes2 later sowings going into hotbeds4 ,in quality1 ,i consider the hard-heading varieties superior to the loose-heading sorts1 but of course that is a matter of taste4 ,the former is best for crops maturing from the middle of ,june until ,september1 the latter for early and late sowings1 as they mature more quickly4 ,the cos type is good for summer growing but should be tied up to blanch well4 ,to be at its best1 lettuce should be grown very rapidly1 and the use of top-dressings of nitrate are particularly beneficial with this crop4 ,the ground should be light1 warm1 and very rich1 and cultivation shallow but frequent4 ,mushroom3--,while the mushroom is not a garden crop1 strictly speaking1 still it is one of the most delicious of all vegetables for the home table1 and though space does not permit a long description of the several details of its culture1 ,i shall try to include all the essential points as succinctly as possible1 7#a7 ,the place for the bed may be found in any sheltered1 dry spot--cellar1 shed or greenhouse-- where an even temperature of #ec to #eh degrees can be maintained and direct sunlight excluded4 7,complete darkness is not necessary2 it is frequently so considered1 but only because in dark places the temperature and moisture are apt to remain more even47 7#b7 ,the material is fresh horse-manure1 from which the roughest of the straw has been shaken out4 ,this is stacked in a compact pile and trampled--wetting down if at all dry--to induce fermentation4 ,this process must be repeated four or five times1 care being required never to let the heap dry out and burn2 time for re-stacking being indicated by the heap's steaming4 ,at the second or third turning1 add about one-fifth1 in bulk1 of light loam4 7#c7 ,when the heat of the pile no longer rises above #ajj to #abe degrees 7as indicated by a thermometer7 put into the beds1 tramping or beating very firmly1 until about ten inches deep4 ,when the temperature recedes to #ij degrees1 put in the spawn4 ,each brick will make a dozen or so pieces4 ,put these in three inches deep1 and twelve by nine inches apart1 covering lightly4 ,then beat down the surface evenly4 ,after eight days1 cover with two inches of light loam1 firmly compacted4 ,this may be covered with a layer of straw or other light material to help maintain an even degree of moisture1 but should be removed as soon as the mushrooms begin to appear4 ,water only when the soil is very dry2 better if water is warmed to about #fj degrees4 ,when gathering never leave stems in the bed as they are likely to breed maggots4 ,the crop should appear in six to eight weeks after spawning the bed4 ,parsley3--,this very easily grown little plant should have at least a row or two in the seed-bed devoted to it4 ,for use during winter1 a box or a few pots may be filled with cut-back roots and given moderate temperature and moisture4 ,if no frames are on hand1 the plants usually will do well in a sunny window4 ,parsley seed is particularly slow in germinating4 ,use a few seeds of turnip or carrot to indicate the rows1 and have the bed very finely prepared4 ,rhubarb3--,this is another of the standard vegetables which no home garden should be without4 ,for the bed pick out a spot where the roots can stay without interfering with the plowing and working of the garden--next the asparagus bed1 if in a good early location1 will be as good as any4 ,one short row will supply a large family4 ,the bed is set either with roots or young plants1 the former being the usual method4 ,the ground should first be made as deep and rich as possible4 ,if poor1 dig out the rows1 which should be four or five feet apart1 to a depth of two feet or more and work in a foot of good manure1 refilling with the best of the soil excavated4 ,set the roots about four feet apart in the row1 the crowns being about four inches below the surface4 ,no stalks should be cut the first season2 after that they will bear abundantly many years4 ,in starting from seed1 sow in ,march in frames or outside in ,april2 when well along-about the first of ,june--set out in rows1 eighteen by twelve inches4 ,by the following ,april they will be ready for their permanent position4 ,manuring in the fall1 as with asparagus1 to be worked in in the spring1 is necessary for good results4 ,i know of no crop which so quickly responds to liberal dressings of nitrate of soda1 applied first just as growth starts in in the spring4 ,the seed stalks should be broken off as fast as they appear1 until late in the season4 ,sea-,kale3--,when better known in this country1 sea-kale will be given a place beside the asparagus and rhubarb1 for1 like them1 it may be used year after year4 ,many believe it superior in quality to either asparagus or cauliflower4 ,it is grown from either seed or pieces of the root1 the former method1 being probably the more satisfactory4 ,sow in ,april1 in drills fourteen inches apart1 thinning to five or six4 ,transplant in the following spring as described for rhubarb--but setting three feet apart each way4 ,in the fall1 after the leaves have fallen--and every succeeding fall-- cover each crown with a shovelful of clean sand and then about eighteen inches of earth1 dug out from between the rows4 ,this is to blanch the spring growth4 ,after cutting1 shovel off the earth and sand and enrich with manure for the following season's growth4 ,spinach3--,for the first spring crop of this good and wholesome vegetable1 the seed is sown in ,september1 and carried over with a protection of hay or other rough litter4 ,crops for summer and fall are sown in successive plantings from ,april on1 ,long-,standing being the best sort to sow after about ,may #aeth4 ,seed of the ,new ,zealand spinach should be soaked several hours in hot water1 before being planted4 ,for the home garden1 ,i believe that the ,swiss chard beet is destined to be more popular1 as it becomes known1 than any of the spinaches4 ,it is sown in plantings from ,april on1 but will yield leaves all season long2 they are cut close to the soil1 and in an almost incredibly short time the roots have thrown up a new crop1 the amount taken during the season being wonderful4 ,spinach wants a strong and very rich soil1 and dressings of nitrate show good results4 ,,the ,,fruit ,,crops ,under this heading are included3 ,bean1 dwarf ,bean1 pole ,corn ,peas ,cucumber ,egg-plant ,melon1 musk ,melon1 water ,okra ,pepper ,pumpkins ,squash ,tomato ,most of these vegetables differ from both the preceding groups in two important ways4 ,first of all1 the soil should not be made too rich1 especially in nitrogenous manures1 such as strong fresh yard-manure2 although light dressings of nitrate of soda are often of great help in giving them a quick start--as when setting out in the field4 ,second1 they are warm-weather loving plants1 and nothing is gained by attempting to sow or set out the plants until all danger from late frosts is over1 and the ground is well warmed up4 7,peas1 of course1 are an exception to this rule1 and to some extent the early beans47 ,third1 they require much more room and are grown for the most part in hills4 ,light1 warm1 quick1 sandy to gravelly soils1 and old1 fine1 well rotted manure--applied generally in the hill besides that plowed under1 make the best combination for results4 ,such special hills are prepared by marking off1 digging out the soil to the depth of eight to ten inches1 and eighteen inches to two feet square1 and incorporating several forkfuls of the compost4 ,a little guano1 or better still cottonseed meal1 say #a_/b to #a gill of the former1 or a gill of the latter1 mixed with the compost when putting into the hill1 will also be very good4 ,hills to be planted early should be raised an inch or two above the surface1 unless they are upon sloping ground4 ,the greatest difficulty in raising all the vine fruits--melons1 etc4-- is in successfully combating their insect enemies--the striped beetle1 the borer and the flat1 black stink-bug1 being the worst of these4 ,remedies will be suggested in the next chapter4 ,but for the home garden1 where only a few hills of each will be required1 by far the easiest and the only sure way of fighting them will be by protecting with bottomless boxes1 large enough to cover the hills1 and covered with mosquito netting1 or better1 plant-protecting cloth1 which has the additional merit of giving the hills an early start4 ,these boxes may be easily made of one-half by eight-inch boards1 or from ordinary cracker-boxes1 such as used for making flats4 ,plants so protected in the earlier stages of growth will usually either not be attacked1 or will1 with the assistance of the remedies described in the following chapter1 be able to withstand the insect's visits4 ,beans1 dwarf3--,beans are one of the most widely liked of all garden vegetables--and one of the most easily grown4 ,they are very particular about only one thing--not to have a heavy wet soil4 ,the dwarf or bush sorts are planted in double or single drills1 eighteen to twenty-four inches apart1 and for the first sowing not much over an inch deep4 ,later plantings should go in two to three inches deep1 according to soil4 ,ashes or some good mixed fertilizer high in potash1 applied and well mixed in at time of planting1 will be very useful4 ,as the plants gain size they should be slightly hilled--to help hold the stalks up firmly4 ,never work over or pick from the plants while they are wet4 ,the dwarf limas should not be planted until ten to fourteen days later than the early sorts4 ,be sure to put them in edgeways1 with the eye down1 and when there is no prospect of immediate rain1 or the whole planting is fairly sure to be lost4 ,beans1 pole3--,the pole varieties should not go in until about the time for the limas4 ,plant in specially prepared hills 7see above7 ten to twenty seeds1 and when well up thin1 leaving three to five4 ,poles are best set when preparing the hills4 ,a great improvement over the old-fashioned pole is made by nailing building laths firmly across #b x #c-;in4 posts seven or eight feet high 7see illustration74 ,to secure extra early pods on the poles pinch back the vines at five feet high4 ,corn3--,for extra early ears1 corn may easily be started on sod1 as directed for cucumbers4 ,be sure1 however1 not to get into the open until danger from frost is over--usually at least ten days after it is safe for the first planting1 which is seldom made before ,may #ast4 ,frequent1 shallow cultivation is a prime necessity in growing this crop4 ,when well up1 thin to four stalks to a hill--usually five to seven kernels being planted4 ,a slight hilling when the tassels appear will be advisable4 ,plant frequently for succession crops4 ,the last sowing may be made as late as the first part of ,july if the seed is well firmed in1 to assure immediate germination4 ,sweet corn for the garden is frequently planted in drills1 about three feet apart1 and thinning to ten to twelve inches4 ,cucumber3--,this universal favorite is easily grown if the striped beetle is held at bay4 ,for the earliest fruits start on sod in the frames3 ,cut out sods four to six inches square1 where the grass indicates rich soil4 ,pack close together in the frame1 grass side down1 and push seven or eight seeds into each1 firmly enough to be held in place1 covering with about one and a half inches of light soil2 water thoroughly and protect with glass or cloth1 taking care to ventilate1 as described in ,chapter ,,viii4 ,set out in prepared hills after danger of frost is over4 ,outside crop is planted directly in the hills1 using a dozen or more seeds and thinning to three or four4 ,egg-plant3--,the egg-plant is always started under glass1 for the ,northern ,states1 and should be twice transplanted1 the second time into pots1 to be of the best size when put out4 ,this should not be until after tomatoes are set1 as it is perhaps the tenderest of all garden vegetables as regards heat4 ,the soil should be very rich and as moist as can be selected4 ,if dry1 irrigating will be necessary4 ,this should not be delayed until the growth becomes stunted1 as sudden growth then induced is likely to cause the fruit to crack4 ,watch for potato-bugs on your egg-plants4 ,they seem to draw these troublesome beetles as a magnet does iron filings1 and ,i have seen plants practically ruined by them in one day4 ,as they seem to know there will not be time to eat the whole fruit they take pains to eat into the stems4 ,the only sure remedy is to knock them off with a piece of shingle into a pan of water and kerosene4 ,egg-plants are easily burned by ,paris green1 and that standard remedy cannot be so effectively used as on other crops2 hellebore or arsenate of lead is good4 ,as the season of growth is very limited1 it is advisable1 besides having the plants as well developed as possible when set out1 to give a quick start with cotton-seed meal or nitrate1 and liquid manure later is useful1 as they are gross feeders4 ,the fruits are ready to eat from the size of a turkey egg to complete development4 ,melon1 musk3--,the culture of this delicious vegetable is almost identical with that of the cucumber4 ,if anything it is more particular about having light soil4 ,if put in soil at all heavy1 at the time of preparing the hill1 add sand and leaf-mould to the compost1 the hills made at least three feet square1 and slightly raised4 ,this method is also of use in planting the other vine crops4 ,melon1 water3--,in the warm ,southern ,states watermelons may be grown cheaply1 and they are so readily shipped that in the small home gardens it will not pay to grow them1 for they take up more space than any other vegetable1 with the exception of winter squash4 ,the one advantage of growing them1 where there is room1 is that better quality than that usually to be bought may be obtained4 ,give them the hottest spot in the garden and a sandy quick soil4 ,use a variety recommended for your particular climate4 ,give the same culture as for musk melon1 except that the hill should be at least six to ten feet apart each way4 ,by planting near the edge of the garden1 and pinching back the vines1 room may be saved and the ripening up of the crop made more certain4 ,okra3--,although the okra makes a very strong plant--and incidentally is one of the most ornamental of all garden vegetables-- the seed is quickly rotted by wet or cold4 ,sow not earlier than ,may #beth1 in warm soil1 planting thinly in drills1 about one and a half inches deep1 and thinning to a foot or so2 cultivate as with corn in drills4 ,all pods not used for soup or stems during summer may be dried and used in winter4 ,peas3--,with care in making successive sowings1 peas may be had during a long season4 ,the earliest1 smooth varieties are planted in drills twelve to eighteen inches apart1 early in ,april4 ,these are1 however1 of very inferior quality compared to the wrinkled sorts1 which may now be had practically as early as the others4 ,with the market gardener1 the difference of a few days in the maturing of the crop is of a great deal more importance than the quality1 but for the home garden the opposite is true4 ,another method of planting the dwarf-growing kinds is to make beds of four rows1 six to eight inches apart1 with a two-foot alley between beds4 ,the tall-growing sorts must be supported by brush or in other ways2 and are put about four feet apart in double rows1 six inches apart4 ,the early varieties if sown in ,august will usually mature a good fall crop4 ,the early plantings should be made in light1 dry soil and but one inch deep2 the later ones in deep loam4 ,in neither case should the ground be made too rich1 especially in nitrogen2 and it should not be wet when the seed is planted4 ,pepper3--,a dozen pepper plants will give abundance of pods for the average family4 ,the varieties have been greatly improved within recent years in the quality of mildness4 ,the culture recommended for egg-plant is applicable also to the pepper4 ,the main difference is that1 although the pepper is very tender when young1 the crop maturing in the autumn will not be injured by considerable frost4 ,pumpkin3--,the sugar or pie varieties of the pumpkin are the only ones used in garden culture1 and these only where there is plenty of ground for all other purposes4 ,the culture is the same as that for late squashes1 which follows4 ,squash3--,for the earliest squash the bush varieties of ,scallop are used2 to be followed by the summer ,crookneck and other summer varieties1 best among which are the ,fordhook and ,delicata4 ,for all1 hills should be prepared as described at the beginning of this section and in addition it is well to mix with manure a shovelful of coal ashes1 used to keep away the borer1 to the attack of which the squash is particularly liable4 ,the cultivation is the same as that used for melons or cucumbers1 except that the hills for the winter sorts must be at least eight feet apart and they are often put twelve4 ,tomato3--,for the earliest crop1 tomatoes are started about ,march #ast4 ,they should be twice transplanted1 and for best results the second transplanting should be put into pots--or into the frames1 setting six to eight inches each way4 ,they are not set out until danger of frost is over1 and the ground should not be too rich2 old manure used in the hill1 with a dressing of nitrate at setting out1 or a few days after1 will give them a good start4 ,according to variety1 they are set three to five feet apart--four feet1 where staking or trellising is given1 as it should always be in garden culture1 will be as much as the largest- growing plants require4 ,it will pay well1 both for quality and quantity of fruit1 to keep most of the suckers cut or rubbed off4 ,the ripening of a few fruits may be hastened by tying paper bags over the bunches1 or by picking and ripening on a board in the hot sun4 ,for ripening fruit after frost see ,chapter ,,xiv4 ,a sharp watch should be kept for the large green tomato-worm1 which is almost exactly the color of the foliage4 ,his presence may first be noticed by fruit and leaves eaten4 ,hand-picking is the best remedy4 ,protection must be made against the cutworm in localities where he works4 ,all the above1 of course1 will be considered in connection with the tabulated information as to dates1 depths and distances for sowing1 quantities1 etc41 given in the table in ,chapter ,,iv1 and is supplemented by the information about insects1 diseases and harvesting given in ,chapters ,,xiii and ,,xiv1 and especially in the ,chapter on ,varieties which follows1 and which is given separately from the present chapter in order that the reader may the more readily make out a list1 when planning his garden or making up his order sheet for the seedsman4 ,,chapter ,,xii ,,best ,,varieties ,,of ,,the ,,garden ,,vegetables ,it is my purpose in this chapter to assist the gardener of limited experience to select varieties sure to give satisfaction4 ,to the man or woman planning a garden for the first time there is no one thing more confusing than the selection of the best varieties4 ,this in spite of the fact that catalogues should be1 and might be1 a great help instead of almost an actual hindrance4 ,i suppose that seedsmen consider extravagance in catalogues1 both in material and language1 necessary1 or they would not go to the limit in expense for printing and mailing1 as they do4 ,but from the point of view of the gardener1 and especially of the beginner1 it is to be regretted that we cannot have the plain unvarnished truth about varieties1 for surely the good ones are good enough to use up all the legitimate adjectives upon which seedsmen would care to pay postage4 ,but such is not the case4 ,every season sees the introduction of literally hundreds of new varieties--or1 as is more often the case1 old varieties under new names--which have actually no excuse for being unloaded upon the public except that they will give a larger profit to the seller4 ,of course1 in a way1 it is the fault of the public for paying the fancy prices asked--that is1 that part of the public which does not know4 ,commercial planters and experienced gardeners stick to well known sorts4 ,new varieties are tried1 if at all1 by the packet only--and then on suspicion4 ,in practically every instance the varieties mentioned have been grown by the author1 but his recommendations are by no means based upon personal experience alone4 ,wherever introductions of recent years have proved to be actual improvements upon older varieties1 they are given in preference to the old1 which are1 of course1 naturally much better known4 ,it is impossible for any person to pick out this1 that or the other variety of a vegetable and label it unconditionally the best4 ,but the person who wants to save time in making out his seed list can depend upon the following to have been widely tested1 and to have made good4 ,asparagus3--,while there are enthusiastic claims put forth for several of the different varieties of asparagus1 as far as ,i have seen any authentic record of tests 7,bulletin #agc1 ,n4 ,j4 ,agr4 ,exp4 ,station71 the prize goes to ,palmetto1 which gave twenty-eight per cent4 more than its nearest rival1 ,donald's ,elmira4 ,big yield alone is frequently no recommendation of a vegetable to the home gardener1 but in this instance it does make a big difference2 first1 because ,palmetto is equal to any other asparagus in quality1 and second1 because the asparagus bed is producing only a few weeks during the gardening season1 and where ground is limited1 as in most home gardens1 it is important to cut this waste space down as much as possible4 ,this is for beds kept in good shape and highly fed4 ,barr's ,mammoth will probably prove more satisfactory if the bed is apt to be more or less neglected1 for the reason that under such circumstances it will make thicker stalks than the ,palmetto4 ,beans 7dwarf73--,of the dwarf beans there are three general types3 the early round-podded string beans1 the stringless round- pods1 and the usually more flattish wax beans4 ,for first early1 the old reliable ,extra ,early ,red ,valentine remains as good as any sort ,i have ever tried4 ,in good strains of this variety the pods have very slight strings1 and they are very fleshy4 ,it makes only a small bush and is fairly productive and of good quality4 ,the care-taking planter1 however1 will put in only enough of these first early beans to last a week or ten days1 as the later sorts are more prolific and of better quality4 ,burpee's ,stringless ,greenpod is a good second early4 ,it is larger1 finer1 stringless even when mature1 and of exceptionally handsome appearance4 ,improved ,refugee is the most prolific of the green-pods1 and the best of them for quality1 but with slight strings4 ,of the wax type1 ,brittle ,wax is the earliest1 and also a tremendous yielder4 ,the long-time favorite1 ,rust-proof ,golden ,wax1 is another fine sort1 and an especially strong healthy grower4 ,the top-notch in quality among all bush beans is reached1 perhaps1 in ,burpee's ,white ,wax--the white referring not to the pods1 which are of a light yellow1 and flat --but to the beans1 which are pure white in all stages of growth4 ,it has one unusual and extremely valuable quality--the pods remain tender longer than those of any other sort4 ,of the dwarf limas there is a new variety which is destined1 ,i think1 to become the leader of the half-dozen other good sorts to be had4 ,that is the ,burpee ,improved4 ,the name is rather misleading1 as it is not an improved strain of the ,dreer's or ,kumerle bush lima1 but a mutation1 now thoroughly fixed4 ,the bushes are stronger-growing and much larger than those of the older types1 reaching a height of nearly three feet1 standing strongly erect2 both pods and beans are much larger1 and it is a week earlier4 ,henderson's new ,early ,giant ,i have not yet tried1 but from the description ,i should say it is the same type as the above4 ,of the pole limas1 the new ,giant-podded is the hardiest--an important point in limas1 which are a little delicate in constitution anyway1 especially in the seedling stage--and the biggest yielder of any ,i have grown and just as good in quality--and there is no vegetable much better than well cooked limas4 ,with me1 also1 it has proved as early as that old standard1 ,early ,leviathan1 but this may have been a chance occurrence4 ,ford's ,mammoth is another excellent pole lima of large size4 ,of the other pole beans1 the two that are still my favorites are ,kentucky ,wonder1 or ,old ,homestead1 and ,golden ,cluster4 ,the former has fat meaty green pods1 entirely stringless until nearly mature1 and of enormous length4 ,i have measured many over eight and a half inches long--and they are borne in great profusion4 ,golden ,cluster is one of the handsomest beans ,i know4 ,it is happily named1 for the pods1 of a beautiful rich golden yellow color1 hang in generous clusters and great profusion4 ,in quality it has no superior2 it has always been a great favorite with my customers4 ,one need never fear having too many of these1 as the dried beans are pure white and splendid for winter use4 ,last season ,i tried a new pole bean called ,burger's ,green-pod ,stringless or ,white-seeded ,kentucky ,wonder 7the dried seeds of the old sort being brown74 ,it did well1 but was in so dry a place that ,i could not tell whether it was an improvement over the standard or not4 ,it is claimed to be earlier4 ,beets3--,in beets1 varieties are almost endless1 but ,i confess that ,i have found no visible difference in many cases4 ,edmund's ,early and ,early ,model are good for first crops4 ,the ,egyptian strains1 though largely used for market1 have never been as good in quality with me4 ,for the main crop ,i like ,crimson ,globe4 ,in time it is a second early1 of remarkably good form1 smooth skin and fine quality and color4 ,broccoli3--,this vegetable is a poorer cousin of the cauliflower 7which1 by the way1 has been termed only a cabbage with a college education74 ,it is of little use where cauliflower can be grown1 but serves as a substitute in northern sections1 as it is more hardy than that vegetable4 ,early ,white ,french is the standard sort4 ,brussels sprouts3--,this vegetable1 in my opinion1 is altogether too little grown4 ,it is as easy to grow as fall and winter cabbage1 and while the yield is less1 the quality is so much superior that for the home garden it certainly should be a favorite4 ,today 7,jan4 #aith7 we had for dinner sprouts from a few old plants that had been left in transplanting boxes in an open coldframe4 ,these had been out all winter--with no protection1 repeatedly freezing and thawing1 and1 while of course small1 they were better in quality than any cabbage you ever ate4 ,dalkeith is the best dwarf-growing sort4 ,danish ,prize is a new sort1 giving a much heavier yield than the older types4 ,i have tried it only one year1 but should say it will become the standard variety4 ,cabbage3--,in cabbages1 too1 there is an endless mix-up of varieties4 ,the ,jersey ,wakefield still remains the standard early4 ,but it is at the best but a few days ahead of the flat-headed early sorts which stand much longer without breaking1 so that for the home garden a very few heads will do4 ,glory of ,enkhuisen is a new early sort that has become a great favorite4 ,early ,summer and ,succession are good to follow these1 and ,danish ,ballhead is the best quality winter cabbage1 and unsurpassed for keeping qualities4 ,but for the home garden the ,savoy type is1 to my mind1 far and away the best4 ,it is not in the same class with the ordinary sorts at all4 ,perfection ,drumhead ,savoy is the best variety4 ,of the red cabbages1 ,mammoth ,rock is the standard4 ,carrots3--,the carrots are more restricted as to number of varieties4 ,golden ,ball is the earliest of them all1 but also the smallest yielder4 ,early ,scarlet ,horn is the standard early1 being a better yielder than the above4 ,the ,danvers ,half-long is probably grown more than all other kinds together4 ,it grows to a length of about six inches1 a very attractive deep orange in color4 ,where the garden soil is not in excellent condition1 and thoroughly fined and pulverized as it should be1 the shorter-growing kinds1 ,ox-heart and ,chantenay1 will give better satisfaction4 ,if there is any choice in quality1 ,i should award it to ,chantenay4 ,cauliflower2--,there is hardly a seed catalogue which does not contain its own special brand of the very best and earliest cauliflower ever introduced4 ,these are for the most part selected strains of either the old favorite1 ,henderson's ,snowball1 or the old ,early ,dwarf ,erfurt4 ,snowball1 and ,burpee's ,best ,early1 which resembles it1 are the best varieties ,i have ever grown for spring or autumn4 ,they are more likely to head1 and of much finer quality than any of the large late sorts4 ,where climatic conditions are not favorable to growing cauliflower1 and in dry sections1 ,dry-weather is the most certain to form heads4 ,celery3--,for the home garden the dwarf-growing1 self-blanching varieties of celery are much to be preferred4 ,white ,plume and ,golden ,self-blanching are the best4 ,the former is the earliest celery and of excellent quality1 but not a good keeper4 ,recent introductions in celery have proved very real improvements4 ,perhaps the best of the newer sorts1 for home use1 is ,winter ,queen1 as it is more readily handled than some of the standard market sorts4 ,in quality it has no superior4 ,when put away for winter properly1 it will keep through ,april4 ,corn3--,you will have to suit yourself about corn4 ,i have not the temerity to name any best varieties--every seedsman has about half a dozen that are absolutely unequaled4 ,for home use1 ,i have cut my list down to three3 ,golden ,bantam1 a dwarf-growing early of extraordinary hardiness--can be planted earlier than any other sort and1 while the ears are small and with yellow kernels1 it is exceptionally sweet and fine in flavor4 ,this novelty of a few years since1 has attained wide popular favor as quickly as any vegetable ,i know4 ,seymour's ,sweet ,orange is a new variety1 somewhat similar to ,golden ,bantam1 but later and larger1 of equally fine quality4 ,white ,evergreen1 a perfected strain of ,stowell's ,evergreen1 a standard favorite for years1 is the third4 ,it stays tender longer than any other sweet corn ,i have ever grown4 ,cucumbers3--,of cucumbers also there is a long and varied list of names4 ,the old ,extra ,early ,white ,spine is still the best early2 for the main crop1 some perfected form of ,white ,spine4 ,i myself like the ,fordhood ,famous1 as it is the healthiest strain ,i ever grew1 and has very large fruit that stays green1 while being of fine quality4 ,in the last few years the ,davis ,perfect has won great popularity1 and deservedly so4 ,many seedsmen predict that this is destined to become the leading standard--and where seedsmen agree let us prick up our ears6 ,it has done very well with me1 the fruit being the handsomest of any ,i have grown4 ,if it proves as strong a grower it will replace ,fordhood ,famous with me4 ,egg-plant3--,new ,york ,improved ,purple is still the standard1 but it has been to a large extent replaced by ,black ,beauty1 which has the merit of being ten days earlier and a more handsome fruit4 ,when once tried it will very likely be the only sort grown4 ,endive3--,this is a substitute for lettuce for which ,i personally have never cared4 ,it is largely used commercially4 ,broad-leaved ,batavian is a good variety4 ,giant ,fringed is the largest4 ,kale3--,kale is a foreigner which has never been very popular in this country4 ,dwarf ,scott ,curled is the tenderest and most delicate 7or least coarse7 in flavor4 ,kohlrabi3--,this peculiar mongrel should be better known4 ,it looks as though a turnip had started to climb into the cabbage class and stopped half-way4 ,when gathered young1 not more than an inch and a half in diameter at the most1 they are quite nice and tender4 ,they are of the easiest cultivation4 ,white ,vienna is the best4 ,leek3--,for those who like this sort of thing it is--just the sort of thing they like4 ,american ,flag is the best variety1 but why it was given the first part of that name1 ,i do not know4 ,lettuce3--,to cover the lettuces thoroughly would take a chapter by itself4 ,for lack of space1 ,i shall have to mention only a few varieties1 although there are many others as good and suited to different purposes4 ,for quality1 ,i put ,mignonette at the top of the list1 but it makes very small heads4 ,grand ,rapids is the best loose- head sort--fine for under glass1 in frames and early outdoors4 ,last fall from a bench #dj x #d ft41 ,i sold #cf worth in one crop1 besides some used at home4 ,i could not sell winter head lettuce to customers who had once had this sort1 so good was its quality4 ,may ,king and ,big ,boston are the best outdoor spring and early summer sorts4 ,new ,york and ,deacon are the best solid cabbage-head types for resisting summer heat1 and long standing4 ,of the cos type ,paris ,white is good4 ,muskmelon3--,the varieties of muskmelon are also without limit4 ,i mention but two--which have given good satisfaction out of a large number tried1 in my own experience4 ,netted ,gem 7known as ,rocky ,ford7 for a green-fleshed type1 and ,emerald ,gem for salmon-fleshed4 ,there are a number of newer varieties1 such as ,hoodoo1 ,miller's ,cream1 ,montreal1 ,nutmeg1 etc41 all of excellent quality4 ,watermelon3--,with me 7in ,connecticut7 the seasons are a little short for this fruit4 ,cole's ,early and ,sweetheart have made the best showing4 ,halbert ,honey is the best for quality4 ,okra3--,in cool sections the ,perfected ,perkins does best1 but it is not quite so good in quality as the southern favorite1 ,white ,velvet4 ,the flowers and plants of this vegetable are very ornamental4 ,onion3--,for some unknown reason1 different seedsmen call the same onion by the same name4 ,i have never found any explanation of this1 except that a good many onions given different names in the catalogues are really the same thing4 ,at least they grade into each other more than other vegetables4 ,with me ,prizetaker is the only sort now grown in quantity1 as ,i have found it to outyield all other yellows1 and to be a good keeper4 ,it is a little milder in quality than the ,american yellows--,danvers and ,southport ,globe4 ,when started under glass and transplanted out in ,april1 it attains the size and the quality of the large ,spanish onions of which it is a descendant4 ,weathersfield ,red is the standard flat red1 but not quite so good in quality or for keeping as ,southport ,red ,globe4 ,of the whites ,i like best ,mammoth ,silver-skin4 ,it is ready early and the finest in quality1 to my taste1 of all the onions1 but not a good keeper4 ,ailsa ,craig1 a new ,english sort now listed in several ,american catalogues1 is the best to grow for extra fancy onions1 especially for exhibiting2 it should be started in ,february or ,march under glass4 ,parsley3--,emerald is a large-growing1 beautifully colored and mild-flavored sort1 well worthy of adoption4 ,parsnip3--,this vegetable is especially valuable because it may be had at perfection when other vegetables are scarce4 ,hollow ,crown 7,improved1 of course67 is the best4 ,peas3--,peas are worse than corn4 ,you will find enough exclamation points in the pea sections of catalogues to train the vines on4 ,if you want to escape brain-fag and still have as good as the best1 if not better1 plant ,gradus 7or ,prosperity7 for early and second early2 ,boston ,unrivaled 7an improved form of ,telephone7 for main crop1 and ,gradus for autumn4 ,these two peas are good yielders1 free growers and of really wonderfully fine quality4 ,they need bushing1 but ,i have never found a variety of decent quality that does not4 ,pepper3--,ruby ,king is the standard1 large1 red1 mild pepper1 and as good as any4 ,chinese ,giant is a newer sort1 larger but later4 ,the flesh is extremely thick and mild4 ,on account of this quality1 it will have a wider range of use than the older sorts4 ,pumpkins3--,the old ,large ,cheese1 and the newer ,quaker ,pie1 are as prolific1 hardy and fine in quality and sweetness as any4 ,potato3--,bovee is a good early garden sort1 but without the best of culture is very small4 ,irish ,cobbler is a good early white4 ,green ,mountain is a universal favorite for main crop in the ,east--a sure yielder and heavy-crop potato of excellent quality4 ,uncle ,sam is the best quality potato ,i ever grew4 ,baked1 they taste almost as rich as chestnuts4 ,radish3--,i do not care to say much about radishes2 ,i do not like them4 ,they are1 however1 universal favorites4 ,they come round1 half- long1 long and tapering2 white1 red1 white-tipped1 crimson1 rose1 yellow-brown and black2 and from the size of a button to over a foot long by fifteen inches in circumference--the latter being the new ,chinese or ,celestial4 ,so you can imagine what a revel of varieties the seedsmen may indulge in4 ,i have tried many--and cut my own list down to two1 ,rapid-red 7probably an improvement of the old standard1 ,scarlet ,button71 and ,crimson ,globe 7or ,giant71 a big1 rapid1 healthy grower of good quality1 and one that does not get corky4 ,a little land-plaster1 or gypsum1 worked into the soil at time of planting1 will add to both appearance and quality in radishes4 ,spinach3--,the best variety of spinach is ,swiss ,chard ,beet 7see below74 ,if you want the real sort1 use ,long ,season1 which will give you cuttings long after other sorts have run to seed4 ,new ,zealand will stand more heat than any other sort4 ,victoria is a newer variety1 for which the claim of best quality is made4 ,in my own trial ,i could not notice very much difference4 ,it has1 however1 thicker and savoyed leaves4 ,salsify3--,this is1 to my taste1 the most delicious of all root vegetables4 ,it will not do well in soil not deep and finely pulverized1 but a row or two for home use can be had by digging and fining before sowing the seed4 ,it is worth extra work4 ,mammoth ,sandwich is the best variety4 ,squash3--,of this fine vegetable there are no better sorts for the home garden than the little ,delicata1 and ,fordhook4 ,vegetable ,marrow is a fine ,english sort that does well in almost all localities4 ,the best of the newer large-vined sorts is ,the ,delicious4 ,it is of finer quality than the well known ,hubbard4 ,for earliest use1 try a few plants of ,white or ,yellow ,bush ,scalloped4 ,they are not so good in quality as either ,delicata or ,fordhook1 which are ready within a week or so later4 ,the latter are also excellent keepers and can be had1 by starting plants early and by careful storing1 almost from ,june to ,june4 ,tomato3--,if you have a really hated enemy1 give him a dozen seed catalogues and ask him to select for you the best four tomatoes4 ,but unless you want to become criminally involved1 send his doctor around the next morning4 ,a few years ago ,i tried over forty kinds4 ,a good many have been introduced since1 some of which ,i have tried4 ,i am prepared to make the following statements3 ,earliana is the earliest quality tomato1 for light warm soils1 that ,i have ever grown2 ,chalk's ,jewel1 the earliest for heavier soils 7,bonny ,best ,early resembles it72 ,matchless is a splendid main-crop sort2 ,ponderosa is the biggest and best quality--but it likes to split4 ,there is one more sort1 which ,i have tried one year only1 so do not accept my opinion as conclusive4 ,it is the result of a cross between ,ponderosa and ,dwarf ,champion--one of the strongest-growing sorts4 ,it is called ,dwarf ,giant4 ,the fruits are tremendous in size and in quality unsurpassed by any4 ,the vine is very healthy1 strong and stocky4 ,i believe this new tomato will become the standard main crop for the home garden4 ,by all means try it4 ,and that is a good deal to say for a novelty in its second year6 ,turnip3--,the earliest turnip of good quality is the ,white ,milan4 ,there are several others of the white-fleshed sorts1 but ,i have never found them equal in quality for table to the yellow sorts4 ,of these1 ,golden ,ball 7or ,orange ,jelly7 is the best quality4 ,petrowski is a different and distinct sort1 of very early maturity and of especially fine quality4 ,if you have room for but one sort in your home garden1 plant this for early1 and a month later for main crop4 ,do not fail to try some of this year's novelties4 ,half the fun of gardening is in the experimenting4 ,but when you are testing out the new things in comparison with the old1 just take a few plants of the latter and give them the same extra care and attention4 ,very often the reputation of a novelty is built upon the fact that in growing it on trial the gardener has given it unusual care and the best soil and location at his command4 ,be fair to the standards--and very often they will surprise you fully as much as the novelties4 ,,chapter ,,xiii ,,insects ,,and ,,diseases ,,and ,,methods ,,of ,,fighting ,,them ,i use the term methods of fighting rather than the more usual one1 remedies1 because by both experience and study ,i am more and more convinced that so long as the commercial fields of agriculture remain in the present absolutely unorganized condition1 and so long as the gardener--home or otherwise--who cares to be neglectful and thus become a breeder of all sorts of plant pests1 is allowed so to do--just so long we can achieve no remedy worth the name4 ,when speaking of a remedy in this connection we very frequently are putting the cart before the horse1 and refer to some means of prevention4 ,prevention is not only the best1 but often the only cure4 ,this the gardener should always remember4 ,this subject of plant enemies has not yet received the attention from scientific investigators which other branches of horticulture have1 and it is altogether somewhat complicated4 ,before taking up the various insects and diseases the following analysis and list will enable the reader to get a general comprehension of the whole matter4 ,plant enemies are of two kinds--7#a7 insects1 and 7#b7 diseases4 ,the former are of two kinds1 7a7 insects which chew or eat the leaves or fruit2 7b7 insects which suck the juices therefrom4 ,the diseases also are of two kinds--7a7 those which result from the attack of some fungus1 or germ2 7b7 those which attack the whole organism of the plant and are termed constitutional4 ,concerning these latter practically nothing is known4 ,it will be seen at once1 of course1 that the remedy to be used must depend upon the nature of the enemy to be fought4 ,we can therefore reduce the matter to a simple classification1 as follows3 ,,plant ,,enemies ,insects ,class ,eating a ,sucking b ,diseases ,parasitical c ,constitutional d ,,remedies ,mechanical ,number ,covered boxes44444444444 #a ,collars44444444444444444 #b ,cards4444444444444444444 #c ,destructive ,hand-picking444444444444 #d ,kerosene emulsion4444444 #e ,whale-oil soap4444444444 #f ,miscible oils44444444444 #g ,tobacco dust444444444444 #h ,carbolic acid emulsion44 #i ,corrosive sublimate4444 #aj ,bordeaux mixture4444444 #aa ,poisonous ,paris green444444444444 #ab ,arsenate of lead4444444 #ac ,hellebore44444444444444 #ad ,it will be of some assistance1 particularly as regards quick reference1 to give the following table1 which shows at a glance the method of fighting any enemy1 the presence of which is known or anticipated4 ,while this may seem quite a formidable list1 in practice many of these pests will not appear1 and under ordinary circumstances the following six remedies out of those mentioned will suffice to keep them all in check1 if used in time3 ,covered boxes1 hand-picking1 kerosene emulsion1 tobacco dust1 ,bordeaux mixture1 arsenate of lead4 ,,enemy ,,attacking ,,class ,,remedy ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- ,aphis 7,plant-lice7 ,cabbage and other plants1 b #e1h1f especially under glass ,asparagus-beetle ,asparagus a #ac1 #ab ,asparagus rust ,asparagus c #aa ,black-rot ,cabbage and the cabbage d #aj group ,borers ,squash b #d ,caterpillars ,cabbage group a #ab1 #ad1 #d ,caterpillars ,tomato a #d ,club-root ,cabbage group c see text ,cucumber-beetle ,cucumber and vines a #a1 #aa1 #h 7,striped beetle7 ,cucumber-wilt ,cucumber and vines c #aa ,cucumber-blight ,cucumber1 muskmelon1 c #aa cabbage ,cut-worm ,cabbage1 tomato1 onion a #b1d1ab1ac ,flea-beetle ,potato1 turnip1 radish a #aa1 #e ,potato-beetle ,potato and egg-plant a #ab1 #ac1 #d ,potato-blight ,potato c #aa ,potato-scab ,potato 7tubers7 c #aj ,root-maggot ,radish1 onion1 cabbage1 a #d1 #c1 #i melons ,squash-bug ,squash1 pumpkin b #d1h1ab1e ,white-fly ,plants2 cucumber1 tomato b #f1 #e1 #h ,white-grub ,plants a #d ,however1 that the home gardener may be prepared to meet any contingency1 ,i shall take up in brief detail the plant enemies mentioned and the remedies suggested4 ,aphis3--,the small1 soft green plant-lice4 ,they seldom attack healthy growing plants in the field1 but are hard to keep off under glass4 ,if once established it will take several applications to get rid of them4 ,use kerosene or soap emulsion1 or tobacco dust4 ,there are also several trade-marked preparations that are good4 ,aphine1 which may be had of any seed house1 has proved very effective in my own work1 and it is the pleasantest to use that ,i have so far found4 ,asparagus-beetle3--,this pest will give little trouble on cleanly cultivated patches4 ,thorough work with arsenate of lead 7#a to #be7 will take care of it4 ,black-rot3--,this affects the cabbage group1 preventing heading1 by falling of the leaves4 ,in clean1 thoroughly limed soil1 with proper rotations1 it is not likely to appear4 ,the seed may be soaked1 in cases where the disease has appeared previously1 for fifteen minutes in a pint of water in which one of the corrosive sublimate tablets which are sold at drug stores is dissolved4 ,borers3--,this borer is a flattish1 white grub1 which penetrates the main stem of squash or other vines near the ground and seems to sap the strength of the plant1 even when the vines have attained a length of ten feet or more4 ,his presence is first made evident by the wilting of the leaves during the noonday heat4 ,coal ashes mixed with the manure in the hill1 is claimed to be a preventative4 ,another is to plant some early squash between the hills prepared for the winter crop1 and not to plant the latter until as late as possible4 ,the early squash vines1 which act as a trap1 are pulled and burned4 ,last season almost half the vines in one of my pieces were attacked after many of the squashes were large enough to eat4 ,with a little practice ,i was able to locate the borer's exact position1 shown by a spot in the stalk where the flesh was soft1 and of a slightly different color4 ,with a thin1 sharp knife-blade the vines were carefully slit lengthwise on this spot1 the borer extracted and killed and the vines in almost every instance speedily recovered4 ,another method is to root the vines by heaping moist earth over several of the leaf joints1 when the vines have attained sufficient length4 ,cabbage-caterpillar3--,this small green worm1 which hatches upon the leaves and in the forming heads of cabbage and other vegetables of the cabbage group1 comes from the eggs laid by the common white or yellow butterfly of early spring4 ,pick off all that are visible1 and spray with kerosene emulsion if the heads have not begun to form4 ,if they have1 use hellebore instead4 ,the caterpillar or worm of tomatoes is a large green voracious one4 ,hand-picking is the only remedy4 ,club-root3--,this is a parasitical disease attacking the cabbage group1 especially in ground where these crops succeed each other4 ,lime both soil and seed-bed--at least the fall before planting1 unless using a special agricultural lime4 ,the crop infested is sometimes carried through by giving a special dressing of nitrate of soda1 guano or other quick-acting powerful fertilizer1 and hilled high with moist earth1 thus giving a special stimulation and encouraging the formation of new roots4 ,while this does not in any way cure the disease1 it helps the crop to withstand its attack4 ,when planting again be sure to use crop rotation and to set plants not grown in infested soil4 ,cucumber-beetle3--,this is the small1 black-and-yellow-striped beetle which attacks cucumbers and other vines and1 as it multiplies rapidly and does a great deal of damage before the results show1 they must be attended to immediately upon appearance4 ,the vine should be protected with screens until they crowd the frames1 which should be put in place before the beetles put in an appearance4 ,if the beetles are still in evidence when the vines get so large that the screens must be removed1 keep sprayed with ,bordeaux mixture4 ,plaster1 or fine ashes1 sifted on the vines will also keep them off to some extent1 by keeping the leaves covered4 ,cucumber-wilt3--,this condition accompanies the presence of the striped beetle1 although supposed not to be directly caused by it4 ,the only remedy is to get rid of the beetles as above1 and to collect and burn every wilted leaf or plant4 ,cucumber-blight or ,mildew is similar to that which attacks muskmelons1 the leaves turning yellow1 dying in spots and finally drying up altogether4 ,where there is reason to fear an attack of this disease1 or upon the first appearance1 spray thoroughly with ,bordeaux1 #e-e-ej1 and repeat every ten days or so4 ,the spraying seems to be more effective on cucumbers than on melons4 ,cut-worm3--,the cut-worm is perhaps the most annoying of all garden pests4 ,others do more damage1 but none is so exasperating4 ,he works at night1 attacks the strongest1 healthiest plants1 and is content simply to cut them off1 seldom1 apparently1 eating much or carrying away any of the severed leaves or stems1 although occasionally ,i have found such bits1 especially small onion tops1 dragged off and partly into the soil4 ,in small gardens the quickest and best remedy is hand-picking4 ,as the worms work at night they may be found with a lantern2 or very early in the morning4 ,in daytime by digging about in the soil wherever a cut is found1 and by careful search1 they can almost invariably be turned out4 ,as a preventive1 and a supplement to hand-picking1 a poisoned bait should be used4 ,this is made by mixing bran with water until a mash is made1 to which is added a dusting of ,paris green or arsenate of lead1 sprayed on thickly and thoroughly worked through the mass4 ,this is distributed in small amounts--a tablespoonful or so to a place along the row or near each hill or plant--just as they are coming up or set out4 ,still another method1 where only a few plants are put out1 is to protect each by a collar of tin or tar paper4 ,flea-beetle3--,this small1 black or striped hard-shelled mite attacks potatoes and young cabbage1 radish and turnip plants4 ,it is controlled by spraying with kerosene emulsion or ,bordeaux4 ,potato-beetle3--,the striped ,colorado beetle1 which invariably finds the potato patch1 no matter how small or isolated4 ,paris green1 dry or sprayed1 is the standard remedy4 ,arsenate of lead is now largely used4 ,on small plots hand-picking of old bugs and destruction of eggs 7which are laid on under side of leaves7 is quick and sure4 ,potato-blight3--,both early and late forms of blight are prevented by ,bordeaux1 #e-e-ej1 sprayed every two weeks4 ,begin early-- when plants are about six inches high4 ,potato-scab3--,plant on new ground2 soak the seed in solution prepared as directed under ,no4 #aj1 which see2 allow no treated tubers to touch bags1 boxes1 bins or soil where untreated ones have been kept4 ,root-maggot3--,this is a small white grub1 often causing serious injury to radishes1 onions and the cabbage group4 ,liming the soil and rotation are the best preventives4 ,destroy all infested plants1 being sure to get the maggots when pulling them up4 ,the remaining plants should be treated with a gill of strong caustic lime water1 or solution of muriate of potash poured about the root of each plant1 first removing an inch or so of earth4 ,in place of these solutions carbolic acid emulsion is sometimes used2 or eight to ten drops of bisulphide of carbon are dropped into a hole made near the roots with the dibber and then covered in4 ,extra stimulation1 as directed for ,club-root1 will help carry the plants through4 ,squash-bug3--,this is the large1 black1 flat stink-bug1 so destructive of squash and the other running vines4 ,protection with frames1 or hand-picking1 are the best home garden remedies4 ,the old bugs may be trapped under boards and by early vines4 ,the young bugs1 or sap-sucking nymphs1 are the ones that do the real damage4 ,heavy tobacco dusting1 or kerosene emulsion will kill them4 ,white-,fly3--,this is the most troublesome under glass1 where it is controlled by fumigation1 but occasionally is troublesome on plants and tomato and cucumber vines4 ,the young are scab-like insects and do the real damage4 ,spray with kerosene emulsion or whale-oil soap4 ,white-grub or muck-worm3--,when lawns are infested the sod must be taken up1 the grubs destroyed and new sward made4 ,when the roots of single plants are attacked1 dig out1 destroy the grubs and1 if the plant is not too much injured1 reset4 ,the remedies given in the table above are prepared as follows3 ,,mechanical ,,remedies #a4--;,covered boxes3--,these are usually made of half-inch stuff1 about eight inches high and covered with mosquito netting1 wire or protecting cloth--the latter having the extra advantage of holding warmth over night4 #b4--;,collars are made of old cans with the bottoms removed1 cardboard or tarred paper1 large enough to go over the plant and an inch or so into the ground4 #c4--;,cards are cut and fitted close around the stem and for an inch or so upon the ground around it1 to prevent maggots going down the stem to the root4 ,not much used4 ,,destructive ,,remedies #d4--;,hand-picking is usually very effective1 and if performed as follows1 not very disagreeable3 ,fasten a small tin can securely to a wooden handle and fill one-third full of water and kerosene2 make a small wooden paddle1 with one straight edge and a rather sharp point2 by using this in the right hand and the pan in the left1 the bugs may be quickly knocked off4 ,be sure to destroy all eggs when hand-picking is used4 #e4--,kerosene emulsion is used in varying strengths2 for method of preparing1 see ,chapter ,,xvii4 #f and #g4--;,for use of whale-oil soap and miscible oils1 see ,chapter ,,xvii4 #h4--,tobacco dust3--,this article varies greatly4 ,most sorts are next to worthless1 but a few of the brands especially prepared for this work 7and sold usually at #c per hundred pounds1 which will last two ordinary home gardens a whole season7 are very convenient to use1 and effective4 ,apply with a duster1 like that described in ,implements4 #i4--;,carbolic acid emulsion3--#a pint crude acid1 #a lb4 soap and #a gal4 water4 ,dissolve the soap in hot water1 add balance of water and pump into an emulsion1 as described for kerosene emulsion4 #aj4--;,corrosive sublimate is used to destroy scab on potatoes for seed by dissolving #a oz4 in #g gals1 of water4 ,the same result is obtained by soaking for thirty minutes in a solution of commercial formalin1 at the rate of #a gill to #ae gals4 of water4 #aa4--;,bordeaux mixture3--,see ,chapter ,,xvii4 ,,poisonous ,,remedies #ab4--,paris green3--,this is the standard remedy for eating-bugs and worms4 ,with a modern dusting machine it can be put on dry1 early in the morning when the dew is still on4 ,sometimes it is mixed with plaster4 ,for tender plants easily burned by the pure powder1 and where dusting is not convenient1 it is mixed with water at the rate of #a lb4 to #ej to #ajj gals4 and used as a spray4 ,in mixing1 make a paste of equal quantities of the powder and quicklime1 and then mix thoroughly in the water4 ,it must be kept stirred up when using4 #ac4--;,arsenate of lead3--,this has two advantages over ,paris green3 ,it will not burn the foliage and it will stay on several times as long4 ,use from #d to #aj lbs4 in #ajj gals4 of water2 mix well and strain before putting in sprayer4 ,see also ,chapter ,,xvii4 #ad4--;,hellebore3--,a dry1 white powder1 used in place of ,nos4 #ab or #ac on vegetables or fruit that is soon to be eaten4 ,for dusting1 use #a lb4 hellebore to #e of plaster or flour4 ,for watering or spraying1 at rate of #a lb4 to #ab gals4 of water4 ,,precautions ,so much for what we can do in actual hand-to-hand1 or rather hand-to- mouth1 conflict with the enemy4 ,very few remedies have ever proved entirely successful1 especially on crops covering any considerable area4 ,it will be far better1 far easier and far more effective to use the following means of precaution against plant pest ravages3 ,first1 aim to have soil1 food and plants that will produce a rapid1 robust growth without check4 ,such plants are seldom attacked by any plant disease1 and the foliage does not seem to be so tempting to eating- insects2 besides which1 of course1 the plants are much better able to withstand their attack if they do come4 ,second1 give clean1 frequent culture and keep the soil busy4 ,do not have old weeds and refuse lying around for insects and eggs to be sheltered by4 ,burn all leaves1 stems and other refuse from plants that have been diseased4 ,do not let the ground lie idle1 but by continuous cropping keep the bugs1 caterpillars and eggs constantly rooted out and exposed to their natural enemies4 ,third1 practice crop rotation4 ,this is of special importance where any root disease is developed4 ,fourth1 watch closely and constantly for the first appearance of trouble4 ,the old adages eternal vigilance is the price of peace1 and a stitch in time saves nine1 are nowhere more applicable than to this matter4 ,and last1 and of extreme importance1 be prepared to act at once4 ,do not give the enemy an hour's rest after his presence is discovered4 ,in almost every case it is only by having time to multiply1 that damage amounting to anything will be done4 ,if you will keep on hand1 ready for instant use1 a good hand-sprayer and a modern powder gun1 a few covered boxes1 tobacco dust1 arsenate of lead and materials for kerosene emulsion and ,bordeaux mixture1 and are not afraid to resort to hand-picking when necessary1 you will be able to cope with all the plant enemies you are likely to encounter4 ,the slight expense necessary--considering that the two implements mentioned will last for years with a little care--will pay as handsome a dividend as any garden investment you can make4 ,,chapter ,,xiv ,,harvesting ,,and ,,storing ,it is a very common thing to allow the garden vegetables not used to rot on the ground1 or in it4 ,there is a great deal of unnecessary waste in this respect1 for a great many of the things so neglected may just as well be carried into winter1 and will pay a very handsome dividend for the slight trouble of gathering and storing them4 ,a good frost-proof1 cool cellar is the best and most convenient place in which to store the surplus product of the home garden4 ,but1 lacking this1 a room partitioned off in the furnace cellar and well ventilated1 or a small empty room1 preferably on the north side of the house1 that can be kept below forty degrees most of the time1 will serve excellently4 ,or1 some of the most bulky vegetables1 such as cabbage and the root crops1 may be stored in a prepared pit made in the garden itself4 ,as it is essential that such a pit be properly constructed1 ,i shall describe one with sufficient detail to enable the home gardener readily to construct it4 ,select a spot where water will not stand4 ,put the vegetables in a triangular-shaped pile1 the base three or four feet wide1 and as long as required4 ,separate the different vegetables in this pile by stakes about two feet higher than the top of the pile1 and label them4 ,then cover with a layer of clean straw or bog hay1 and over this four inches of soil1 dug up three feet back from the edges of the pile4 ,this work must be done late in the fall1 as nearly as one can judge just before lasting freezing begins1 and preferably on a cold morning when the ground is just beginning to freeze2 the object being to freeze the partly earth covering at once1 so that it will not be washed or blown off4 ,the vegetables must be perfectly dry when stored2 dig them a week or so previous and keep them in an airy shed4 ,as soon as this first layer of earth is partly frozen1 but before it freezes through1 put on another thick layer of straw or hay and cover with twelve inches of earth1 keeping the pile as steep as possible2 a slightly clayey soil1 that may be beaten down firmly into shape with a spade1 being best4 ,the pile should be made where it will be sheltered from the sun as much as possible1 such as on the north side of a building4 ,the disadvantage of the plan is1 of course1 that the vegetables cannot be got at until the pile is opened up1 in early spring1 or late if desired4 ,its two advantages are that the vegetables stored will be kept in better condition than in any cellar1 and that cellar or house room will be saved4 ,for storing small quantities of the roots1 such as carrots or beets1 they are usually packed in boxes or barrels and covered in with clean sand4 ,where an upstairs room has to be used1 swamp or sphagnum moss may replace the sand4 ,it makes an ideal packing medium1 as it is much lighter and cleaner than the sand4 ,in many localities it may be had for the gathering2 in others one may get it from a florist4 ,in storing vegetables of any kind1 and by whatever method1 see to it that3 7#a7 ,they are always clean1 dry and sound4 ,the smallest spot or bruise is a danger center1 which may spread destruction to the lot4 7#b7 ,that the temperature1 whatever required--in most cases #cc-ch degrees being best--is kept as even as possible4 7#c7 ,that the storage place is kept clean1 dry 7by ventilation when needed7 and sweet 7by use of whitewash and lime74 7#d7 ,that no rats or other rodents are playing havoc with your treasures while you never suspect it4 ,so many of the vegetables can be kept1 for either part or all of the winter1 that ,i shall take them up in order1 with brief directions4 ,many1 such as green beans1 rhubarb1 tomatoes1 etc41 which cannot be kept in the ordinary ways1 may be easily and cheaply canned1 and where one has a good cellar1 it will certainly pay to get a canning outfit and make use of this method4 ,beans3--,almost all the string and snap beans1 when dried in the pods1 are excellent for cooking4 ,and any pods which have not been gathered in the green state should be picked1 as soon as dry 7as wet weather is likely to mould or sprout them71 and stored in a dry place1 or spread on a bench in the sun4 ,they will keep1 either shelled or in the dry pods1 for winter4 ,beets3--,in ,october1 before the first hard frosts1 take up and store in a cool cellar1 in clean1 perfectly dry sand1 or in pits outside 7see ,cabbage72 do not cut off the long tap roots1 nor the tops close enough to cause any bleeding4 ,brussels sprouts3--,these are improved by freezing1 and may be used from the open garden until ,december4 ,if wanted later1 store them with cabbage1 or hang up the stalks in bunches in a cold cellar4 ,cabbage3--,if only a few heads are to be stored1 a cool cellar will do4 ,even if where they will be slightly frozen1 they will not be injured1 so long as they do not freeze and thaw repeatedly4 ,they should not be taken in until there is danger of severe freezing1 as they will keep better1 and a little frost improves the flavor4 ,for storing small quantities outdoors1 dig a trench1 a foot or so deep1 in a well drained spot1 wide enough to admit two heads side by side4 ,pull up the cabbages1 without removing either stems or outer leaves1 and store side by side1 head down1 in the bottom of the trench4 ,now cover over lightly with straw1 meadow hay1 or any refuse which will keep the dirt from freezing to the cabbages1 and then cover over the whole with earth1 to the depth of several inches1 but allowing the top of the roots to remain exposed1 which will facilitate digging them up as required4 ,do not bury the cabbage until as late as possible before severe freezing1 as a spell of warm weather would rot it4 ,carrots3--,treat in the same way as beets4 ,they will not be hurt by a slight freezing of the tops1 before being dug1 but care must be taken not to let the roots become touched by frost4 ,celery3--,that which is to be used early is blanched outside1 by banking1 as described in ,chapter ,,xi1 and as celery will stand a little freezing1 will be used directly from the garden4 ,for the portion to be kept over winter1 provide boxes about a foot wide1 and nearly as deep as the celery is high4 ,cover the bottoms of these boxes with two or three inches of sand1 and wet thoroughly4 ,upon this stand the celery upright1 and packed close together4 ,in taking up the celery for storing in this way1 the roots and whatever earth adheres to them are kept on1 not cut1 as it is bought in the stores4 ,the boxes are then stored in a cellar1 or other dark1 dry1 cold place where the temperature will not go more than five degrees below freezing4 ,the celery will be ready for use after ,christmas4 ,if a long succession is wanted1 store from the open two or three different times1 say at the end of ,october1 first part of ,november and the latter part of ,november4 ,cucumbers1 ,melons1 ,egg-plant3--,while there is no way of storing these for any great length of time without recourse to artificial cold1 they may be had for some time by storing just before the first frosts in a cool1 dark cellar1 care being taken in handling the fruits to give them no bruises4 ,onions3--,if the onions got a good early start in the spring1 the tops will begin to die down by the middle of ,august4 ,as soon as the tops have turned yellow and withered they should be pulled1 on the first clear dry day1 and laid in windrows 7three or four rows in one71 but not heaped up4 ,they should be turned over frequently1 by hand or with a wooden rake1 and removed to a shed or barn floor as soon as dry1 where the tops can be cut off4 ,keep them spread out as much as possible1 and give them open ventilation until danger of frost4 ,then store in a dry place and keep as cool as possible without freezing4 ,a few barrels1 with holes knocked in the sides1 will do well for a small quantity4 ,parsley3--,take up a few plants and keep in a flower-pot or small box1 in the kitchen window4 ,parsnips3--,these will stay in the ground without injury all winter1 but part of the crop may be taken up late in the fall and stored with beets1 carrots and turnips1 to use while the ground is frozen4 ,potatoes3--,when the vines have died down and the skin of the new potatoes has become somewhat hardened1 they can be dug and stored in a cool1 dry cellar at once4 ,be sure to give plenty of ventilation until danger of frost4 ,keep from the light1 as this has the effect of making the potatoes bitter4 ,if there is any sign of rot among the tubers1 do not dig them up until it has stopped4 ,squash and ,pumpkins3--,the proper conditions for storing for winter will be indicated by the drying and shrinking of the stem4 ,cut them from the vines1 being careful never to break off the stem1 turn over1 rub off the dirt and leave the under side exposed to a few days' sunlight4 ,then carry in a spring wagon1 or spring wheelbarrow1 covered with old bags or hay to keep from any bruises4 ,store in the dryest part of the cellar1 and if possible where the temperature will not go below forty degrees4 ,leave them on the vines in the field as late as possible1 while escaping frosts4 ,tomatoes3--,just before the first frosts are likely to begin1 pick all of the best of the unripened fruits4 ,place part of these on clean straw in a coldframe1 giving protection1 where they will gradually ripen up4 ,place others1 that are fully developed but not ripe1 in straw in the cellar4 ,in this way fresh tomatoes may frequently be had as late as ,christmas4 ,turnip3--,these roots1 if desired1 can be stored as are beets or carrots4 ,it is hard to retain our interest in a thing when most of its usefulness has gone by4 ,it is for that reason1 ,i suppose1 that one sees so many forsaken and weed-grown gardens every autumn1 where in the spring everything was neat and clean4 ,but there are two very excellent reasons why the vegetable garden should not be so abandoned--to say nothing of appearances6 ,the first is that many vegetables continue to grow until the heavy frosts come2 and the second1 that the careless gardener who thus forsakes his post is sowing no end of trouble for himself for the coming year4 ,for weeds left to themselves1 even late in the fall1 grow in the cool moist weather with astonishing rapidity1 and1 almost before one realizes it1 transform the well kept garden into a ragged wilderness1 where the intruders have taken such a strong foothold that they cannot be pulled up without tearing everything else with them4 ,so we let them go--and1 left to themselves1 they accomplish their purpose in life1 and leave upon the ground an evenly distributed supply of plump ripe seeds1 which next spring will cause the perennial exclamation1 ,mercy1 ,john1 where did all these weeds come from8 ,and ,john replies1 ,i don't know2 we kept the garden clean last summer4 ,i think there must be weed seeds in the fertilizer4 ,do not let up on your fight with weeds1 for every good vegetable that is left over can be put to some use4 ,here and there in the garden will be a strip that has gone by1 and as it is now too late to plant1 we just let it go4 ,yet now is the time we should be preparing all such spots for withstanding next summer's drouth6 ,you may remember how strongly was emphasized the necessity for having abundant humus 7decayed vegetable matter7 in the soil--how it acts like a sponge to retain moisture and keep things growing through the long1 dry spells which we seem to be sure of getting every summer4 ,so take thought for next year4 ,buy a bushel of rye1 and as fast as a spot in your garden can be cleaned up1 harrow1 dig or rake it over1 and sow the rye on broadcast4 ,just enough loose surface dirt to cover it and let it sprout1 is all it asks4 ,if the weather is dry1 and you can get a small roller1 roll it in to ensure better germination4 ,it will come up quickly2 it will keep out the weeds which otherwise would be taking possession of the ground2 it will grow until the ground is frozen solid and begin again with the first warm spring day2 it will keep your garden from washing out in heavy rains1 and capture and save from being washed away and wasted a good deal of left-over plant food2 it will serve as just so much real manure for your garden2 it will improve the mechanical condition of the soil1 and it will add the important element of humus to it4 ,in addition to these things1 you will have an attractive and luxuriant garden spot1 instead of an unsightly bare one4 ,and in clearing off these patches for rye1 beware of waste4 ,if you have hens1 or by chance a pig1 they will relish old heads of lettuce1 old pea-vines1 still green after the last picking1 and the stumps and outer leaves of cabbage4 ,even if you have not this means of utilizing your garden's by- products1 do not let them go to waste4 ,put everything into a square pile--old sods1 weeds1 vegetable tops1 refuse1 dirt1 leaves1 lawn sweepings--anything that will rot4 ,tread this pile down thoroughly2 give it a soaking once in a while if within reach of the hose1 and two or three turnings with a fork4 ,next spring when you are looking for every available pound of manure with which to enrich your garden1 this compost heap will stand you in good stead4 ,burn now your old pea-brush1 tomato poles and everything that is not worth keeping over for next year4 ,do not leave these things lying around to harbor and protect eggs and insects and weed seeds4 ,if any bean-poles1 stakes1 trellises or supports seem in good enough condition to serve another year1 put them under cover now2 and see that all your tools are picked up and put in one place1 where you can find them and overhaul them next ,february4 ,as soon as your surplus pole beans have dried in their pods1 take up poles and all and store in a dry place4 ,the beans may be taken off later at your leisure4 ,be careful to cut down and burn 7or put in the compost heap7 all weeds around your fences1 and the edges of your garden1 before they ripen seed4 ,if the suggestions given are followed1 the vegetable garden may be stretched far into the winter4 ,but do not rest at that4 ,begin to plan now for your next year's garden4 ,put a pile of dirt where it will not be frozen1 or dried out1 when you want to use it next ,february for your early seeds4 ,if you have no hotbed1 fix the frames and get the sashes for one now1 so it will be ready to hand when the ground is frozen solid and covered with snow next spring4 ,if you have made garden mistakes this year1 be planning now to rectify them next--without progress there is no fun in the game4 ,let next spring find you with your plans all made1 your materials all on hand and a fixed resolution to have the best garden you have ever had4 ,part ,three--,fruits and ,berries ,,chapter ,,xv4 ,,the ,,varieties ,,of ,,pome ,,and ,,stone ,,fruits ,many a home gardener who has succeeded well with vegetables is1 for some reason or other1 still fearsome about trying his hand at growing his own fruit4 ,this is all a mistake2 the initial expense is very slight 7fruit trees will cost but twenty-five to forty cents each1 and the berry bushes only about four cents each71 and the same amount of care that is demanded by vegetables1 if given to fruit1 will produce apples1 peaches1 pears and berries far superior to any that can be bought1 especially in flavor4 ,i know a doctor in ,new ,york1 a specialist1 who has attained prominence in his profession1 and who makes a large income2 he tells me that there is nothing in the city that hurts him so much as to have to pay out a nickel whenever he wants an apple4 ,his boyhood home was on a ,pennsylvania farm1 where apples were as free as water1 and he cannot get over the idea of their being one of ,nature's gracious gifts1 any more than he can overcome his hankering for that crisp1 juicy1 uncloying flavor of a good apple1 which is not quite equaled by the taste of any other fruit4 ,and yet it is not the saving in expense1 although that is considerable1 that makes the strongest argument for growing one's own fruit4 ,there are three other reasons1 each of more importance4 ,first is quality4 ,the commercial grower cannot afford to grow the very finest fruit4 ,many of the best varieties are not large enough yielders to be available for his use1 and he cannot1 on a large scale1 so prune and care for his trees that the individual fruits receive the greatest possible amount of sunshine and thinning out--the personal care that is required for the very best quality4 ,second1 there is the beauty and the value that well kept fruit trees add to a place1 no matter how small it is4 ,an apple tree in full bloom is one of the most beautiful pictures that ,nature ever paints2 and if1 through any train of circumstances1 it ever becomes advisable to sell or rent the home1 its desirability is greatly enhanced by the few trees necessary to furnish the loveliness of showering blossoms in spring1 welcome shade in summer and an abundance of delicious fruits through autumn and winter4 ,then there is the fun of doing it--of planting and caring for a few young trees1 which will reward your labors1 in a cumulative way1 for many years to come4 ,but enough of reasons4 ,if the call of the soil is in your veins1 if your fingers 7and your brain7 in the springtime itch to have a part in earth's ever-wonderful renascence1 if your lips part at the thought of the white1 firm1 toothsome flesh of a ripened-on-the-tree red apple-- then you must have a home orchard without delay4 ,and it is not a difficult task4 ,apples1 pears and the stone fruits1 fortunately1 are not very particular about their soils4 ,they take kindly to anything between a sandy soil so loose as to be almost shifting1 and heavy clay4 ,even these soils can be made available1 but of course not without more work4 ,and you need little room to grow all the fruit your family can possibly eat4 ,time was1 when to speak of an apple tree brought to mind one of those old1 moss-barked giants that served as a carriage shed and a summer dining-room1 decorated with scythes and rope swings1 requiring the services of a forty-foot ladder and a long-handled picker to gather the fruit4 ,that day is gone4 ,in its stead have come the low-headed standard and the dwarf forms4 ,the new types came as new institutions usually do1 under protest4 ,the wise said they would never be practical--the trees would not get large enough and teams could not be driven under them4 ,but the facts remained that the low trees are more easily and thoroughly cared for2 that they do not take up so much room2 that they are less exposed to high winds1 and such fruit as does fall is not injured2 that the low limbs shelter the roots and conserve moisture2 and1 above all1 that picking can be accomplished much more easily and with less injury to fine1 well ripened fruit4 ,the low-headed tree has come to stay4 ,if your space will allow1 the low-headed standards will give you better satisfaction than the dwarfs4 ,they are longer-lived1 they are healthier1 and they do not require nearly so much intensive culture4 ,on the other hand1 the dwarfs may be used where there is little or no room for the standards4 ,if there is no other space available1 they may be put in the vegetable or flower garden1 and incidentally they are then sure of receiving some of that special care which they need in the way of fertilization and cultivation4 ,as ,i have said1 any average soil will grow good fruit4 ,a gravelly loam1 with a gravel subsoil1 is the ideal4 ,do not think from this1 however1 that all you have to do is buy a few trees from a nursery agent1 stick them in the ground and from your negligence reap the rewards that follow only intelligent industry4 ,the soil is but the raw material which work and care alone can transform1 through the medium of the growing tree1 into the desired result of a cellar well stored each autumn with fruit4 ,fruit trees have one big advantage over vegetables--the ground can be prepared for them while they are growing4 ,if the soil will grow a crop of clover it is already in good shape to furnish the trees with food at once4 ,if not1 manure or fertilizers may be applied1 and clover or other green crops turned under during the first two or three years of the trees' growth1 as will be described later4 ,the first thing to consider1 when you have decided to plant1 is the location you will give your trees4 ,plan to have pears1 plums1 cherries and peaches1 as well as apples4 ,for any of these the soil1 of whatever nature1 must be well drained4 ,if not naturally1 then tile or other artificial drainage must be provided4 ,for only a few trees it would probably answer the purpose to dig out large holes and fill in a foot or eighteen inches at the bottom with small stone1 covered with gravel or screened coal-cinders4 ,my own land has a gravelly subsoil and ,i have not had to drain4 ,then with the apples1 and especially with the peaches1 a too-sheltered slope to the south is likely to start the flower buds prematurely in spring1 only to result in total crop loss from late frosts4 ,the diagram on the next page suggests an arrangement which may be adapted to individual needs4 ,one may see from it that the apples are placed to the north1 where they will to some extent shelter the rest of the grounds2 the peaches where they will not be coddled2 the pears1 which may be had upon quince stock1 where they will not shade the vegetable garden2 the cherries1 which are the most ornamental1 where they may lend a decorative effect4 ,and now1 having decided that we can--and will--grow good fruit1 and having in mind suggestions that will enable us to go out to-morrow morning and1 with an armful of stakes1 mark out the locations1 the next consideration should be the all-important question of what varieties are most successfully grown on the small place4 ,illustration3 ,a suggested arrangement of fruit trees on the small place4 ,,ed4 ,unable to recreate in text format4 ,the following selections are made with the home fruit garden1 not the commercial orchard1 in mind4 ,while they are all tried and true sorts1 succeeding generally in the northeast1 ,new ,england and western fruit sections1 remember that fruits1 as a rule1 though not so particular as vegetables about soil1 seem much more so about locality4 ,i would suggest1 therefore1 submitting your list1 before buying1 to your ,state ,experiment ,station4 ,you are taxed for its support2 get some direct result from it4 ,there they will be glad to advise you1 and are in the best position to help you get started properly4 ,above all1 do not buy from the traveling nursery agent1 with his grip full of wonderful lithographs of new and unheard-of novelties4 ,get the catalogue of several reliable nurseries1 take standard varieties about which you know1 and buy direct4 ,several years ago ,i had the opportunity to go carefully over one of the largest fruit nurseries in the country4 ,every care and precaution was taken to grow fine1 healthy1 young trees4 ,the president told me that they sold thousands every year to smaller concerns1 to be resold again through field and local agents4 ,yet they do an enormous retail business themselves1 and of course their own customers get the best trees4 ,the following are listed1 as nearly as ,i can judge1 in the order of their popularity1 but as many of the best are not valuable commercially1 they are little known4 ,whenever you find a particularly good apple or pear1 try to trace it1 and add it to your list4 ,,apples ,without any question1 the apple is far and away the most valuable fruit1 both because of its greater scope of usefulness and its longer season--the last of the winter's ,russets are still juicy and firm when the first ,early ,harvests and ,red ,astrachans are tempting the young idea to experiment with colic4 ,plant but a small proportion of early varieties1 for the late ones are better4 ,out of a dozen trees1 ,i would put in one early1 three fall1 and the rest winter sorts4 ,among the summer apples are several deserving special mention3 ,yellow ,transparent is the earliest4 ,it is an old favorite and one of the most easily grown of all apples4 ,its color is indicated by the name1 and it is a fair eating-apple and a very good cooker4 ,red ,astrachan1 another first early1 is not quite so good for cooking1 but is a delicious eating-apple of good size4 ,an apple of more recent introduction and extremely hardy 7hailing first from ,russia71 and already replacing the above sorts1 is ,livland 7,livland ,raspberry74 ,the tree is of good form1 very vigorous and healthy4 ,the fruit is ready almost as soon as ,yellow ,transparent1 and is of much better quality for eating4 ,in appearance it is exceptionally handsome1 being of good size1 regular form and having those beautiful red shades found almost exclusively in the later apples4 ,the flesh is quality is fully up to its appearance4 ,the white1 crisp-breaking flesh1 most aromatic1 deliciously sub-acid1 makes it ideal for eating4 ,a neighbor of mine sold #djf worth of fruit from twenty trees to one dealer4 ,for such a splendid apple ,mc,intosh is remarkably hardy and vigorous1 succeeding over a very wide territory1 and climate severe enough to kill many of the other newer varieties4 ,the ,fameuse 7widely known as the ,snow7 is an excellent variety for northern sections4 ,it resembles the ,mc,intosh1 which some claim to be derived from it4 ,fall ,pippin1 ,pound ,sweet and ,twenty ,ounce1 are other popular late autumns4 ,in the winter section1 ,baldwin1 which is too well known to need describing1 is the leading commercial variety in many apple districts1 and it is a good variety for home growing on account of its hardiness and good cooking and keeping qualities2 but for the home orchard1 it is far surpassed in quality by several others4 ,in northern sections1 down to the corn line1 ,northern ,spy is a great favorite4 ,it is a large1 roundish apple1 with thin1 tender1 glossy skin1 light to deep carmine over light yellow1 and an excellent keeper4 ,in sections to which it is adapted it is a particularly vigorous1 compact1 upright grower4 ,jonathan is another splendid sort1 with a wider range of conditions favorable for growth4 ,it is1 however1 not a strong-growing tree and is somewhat uncertain in maturing its fruit1 which is a bright1 clear red of distinctive flavor4 ,it likes a soil with more clay than do most apples4 ,in the ,middle ,west and ,middle ,south1 ,grimes 7,golden7 has made a great local reputation in many sections1 although in others it has not done well at all4 ,the ,spitzenberg 7,esopus7 is very near the top of the list of all late eating-apples1 being at its prime about ,december4 ,it is another handsome yellow-covered red apple1 with flesh slightly yellowish1 but very good to the taste4 ,the tree1 unfortunately1 is not a robust grower1 being especially weak in its earlier stages1 but with good cultivation it will not fail to reward the grower for any extra care it may have required4 ,these1 and the other notable varieties1 which there is not room here to describe1 make up the following list1 from which the planter should select according to locality3 ,earliest or ,summer3--,early ,harvest1 ,yellow ,transparent1 ,red ,astrachan1 ,benoni 7new71 ,chenango1 ,sweet ,bough1 ,williams' ,favorite1 ,early ,strawberry1 ,livland ,raspberry4 ,early ,autumn3--,alexander1 ,duchess1 ,porter1 ,gravenstein1 ,mc,intosh ,red4 ,late ,autumn3--,jefferies1 ,fameuse 7,snow71 ,maiden's ,blush1 ,wealthy1 ,fall ,pippin1 ,pound ,sweet1 ,twenty ,ounce1 ,cox ,orange1 ,hubbardston4 ,winter3--,baldwin1 ,rhode ,island ,greening1 ,northwestern ,greening1 ,jonathan1 ,northern ,spy1 ,yellow1 ,swaar1 ,delicious1 ,wagener1 ,king1 ,esopus1 ,spitzenberg1 ,yellow ,bellflower1 ,winter ,banana1 ,seek-no-further1 ,talman ,sweet1 ,roxbury ,russett1 ,king ,david1 ,stayman's ,winesap1 ,wolf ,river4 ,,pears ,pears are more particular than apples in the matter of being adapted to sections and soils4 ,submit your list to your ,state ,experiment ,station before ordering trees4 ,many of the standard sorts may be had where a low-growing1 spreading tree is desired 7for instance1 quince-stock pears might be used to change places with the plums74 ,varieties suitable for this method are listed below4 ,they are given approximately in the order of the ripening3 ,wilder3 ,early ,august1 medium in size1 light yellow1 excellent quality4 ,does not rot at the core1 as so many early pears are liable to do4 ,margaret3 ,oblong1 greenish1 yellow to dull red4 ,clapp ,favorite3 ,very large1 yellow pear4 ,a great bearer and good keeper--where the children cannot get at it4 ,howell3 ,a little later than the foregoing2 large1 bright yellow1 strong-growing tree and big bearer4 ,duchesse d',angouleme3 ,large greenish yellow1 sometimes reaching huge size2 will average better than three-quarters of a pound4 ,the quality1 despite its size1 is splendid4 ,seckel3 ,small in size1 but renowned for exquisite flavor--being probably the most universally admired of all4 ,beurre ,superfine3 ,october1 medium size1 excellent quality4 ,bartlett3 ,the best known of all pears1 and a universal favorite4 ,succeeds in nearly all sections4 ,anjou3 ,one of the best keepers1 and very productive4 ,one of the best in flavor1 rich and vinous4 ,for trees of the standard type the following are worthy of note3 ,congress 7,souvenir du ,c473 ,a very large summer sort4 ,handsome4 ,belle ,lucrative3 ,september to ,october4 ,winter ,nelis3 ,medium size1 but of excellent quality and the longest keeper4 ,kieffer3 ,very popular for its productiveness1 strength of growth and exceptional quality of fruit for canning and preserving4 ,large fruit1 if kept thinned4 ,should have a place in every home garden4 ,josephine de ,malines3 ,not a great yielder but of the very highest quality1 being of the finest texture and tempting aroma4 ,,peaches ,success with peaches also will depend largely upon getting varieties adapted to climate4 ,the white-fleshed type is the hardiest and best for eating2 and the free-stones are for most purposes1 especially in the home garden1 more desirable than the clings4 ,greensboro is the best early variety4 ,crawford is a universal favorite and goes well over a wide range of soil and climate4 ,champion is one of the best quality peaches and exceptionally hardy4 ,elberta1 ,ray1 and ,hague are other excellent sorts4 ,mayflower is the earliest sort yet introduced4 ,,plums ,the available plums are of three classes--the natives1 ,europeans and ,japans2 the natives are the longest-lived1 hardier in tree and blossom1 and heavier bearers4 ,the best early is ,milton2 brilliant red1 yellow and juicy flesh4 ,wildgoose and ,whitaker are good seconds4 ,mrs4 ,cleveland is a later and larger sort1 of finer quality4 ,three late-ripening plums of the finest quality1 but not such prolific yielders1 are ,wayland1 ,benson and ,reed1 and where there is room for only a few trees1 these will be best4 ,they will need one tree of ,newman or ,prairie ,flower with them to assure setting of the fruit4 ,of the ,europeans1 use ,reine ,claude 7the best71 ,bradshaw or ,shropshire4 ,damson is also good4 ,the ,japanese varieties should go on high ground and be thinned1 especially during their first years4 ,my first experience with ,japanese plums convinced me that ,i had solved the plum problem2 they bore loads of fruit1 and were free from disease4 ,that was five years ago4 ,last spring the last one was cut and burned4 ,had they been planted at the top of a small hill1 instead of at the bottom1 as they were1 and restricted in their bearing1 ,i know from later experience that they would still be producing fruit4 ,the most satisfactory varieties of the ,japanese type are ,abundance and ,red ,june4 ,burbank is also highly recommended1 ,,cherries ,cherries have one advantage over the other fruits--they give quicker returns4 ,but1 as far as my experience goes1 they are not as long-lived4 ,the sour type is hardier1 at least north of ,new ,jersey1 than the sweet4 ,it will probably pay to try a few of the new and highly recommended varieties4 ,of the established sorts ,early ,richmond is a good early1 to be followed by ,montmorency and ,english ,morello4 ,windsor is a good sweet cherry1 as are also ,black ,tartarian1 ,sox1 ,wood and ,yellow ,spanish4 ,all the varieties mentioned above are proved sorts4 ,but the lists are being added to constantly1 and where there is a novelty strongly recommended by a reliable nurseryman it will often pay to try it out--on a very small scale at first4 ,,chapter ,,xvi ,,planting3 ,,cultivation3 ,,filler ,,crops ,as the pedigree and the quality of the stock you plant will have a great deal to do with the success or failure of your adventure in orcharding1 even on a very small scale1 it is important to get the best trees you can1 anywhere1 at any price4 ,but do not jump to the conclusion that the most costly trees will be the best4 ,from reliable nurserymen1 selling direct by mail1 you can get good trees at very reasonable prices4 ,as a general thing you will succeed best if you have nothing to do with the perennial tree agent4 ,he may represent a good firm2 you may get your trees on time2 he may have a novelty as good as the standard sorts2 but you are taking three very great chances in assuming so4 ,but1 leaving these questions aside1 there is no particular reason why you should help pay his traveling expenses and the printing bills for his lithographs 7made from actual photographs or painted from nature1 of course67 when you can get the best trees to be had1 direct from the soil in which they are grown1 at the lowest prices1 by ordering through the mail4 ,or1 better still1 if the nursery is not too far away1 take half a day off and select them in person4 ,if you want to help the agent along present him with the amount of his commission1 but get your trees direct from some large reliable nursery4 ,well grown nursery stock will stand much abuse1 but it will not be at all improved by it4 ,do not let yours stand around in the sun and wind1 waiting until you get a chance to set it out4 ,as soon as you get it home from the express office1 unpack it and heel it in1 in moist1 but not wet1 ground2 if under a shed1 so much the better4 ,dig out a narrow trench and pack it in as thick as it will go1 at an angle of forty-five degrees to the natural position when growing4 ,so stored1 it will keep a long time in cold weather1 only be careful that no rats1 mice1 or rabbits reach it4 ,do not1 however1 depend upon this knowledge to the extent of letting all your preparations for planting go until your stock is on hand4 ,be ready to set it the day it arrives1 if possible4 ,,planting ,planting can be done in either spring or fall4 ,as a general rule1 north of ,philadelphia and ,st4 ,louis1 spring planting will be best2 south of that1 fall planting4 ,where there is apt to be severe freezing1 heaving1 caused by the alternate freezing and thawing2 injury to the newly set roots from too severe cold2 and1 in some western sections1 sun-scald of the bark1 are three injuries which may result4 ,if trees are planted in the fall in cold sections1 a low mound of earth1 six to twelve inches high1 should be left during the winter about each1 and leveled down in the spring4 ,if set in the spring1 where hot1 dry weather is apt to follow1 they should be thoroughly mulched with litter1 straw or coarse manure1 to preserve moisture--care being taken1 however1 against field mice and other rodents4 ,the trees may either be set in their permanent positions as soon as bought1 or grown in nursery rows by the purchaser for one or two years after being purchased4 ,in the former case1 it will be the best policy to get the strongest1 straightest two-year stock you can find1 even if they cost ten or fifteen cents apiece more than the mediums4 ,the former method is the usual one1 but the latter has so many advantages that ,i give it the emphasis of a separate paragraph1 and urge every prospective planter to consider it carefully4 ,in the first place1 then1 you get your trees a little cheaper4 ,if you purchase for nursery row planting1 six-foot to seven-foot two-year-old apple trees1 of the standard sorts1 should cost you about thirty cents each2 one-year buds1 six feet and branched1 five to ten cents less4 ,this gain1 however1 is not an important one--there are four others1 each of which makes it worth while to give the method a trial4 ,first1 the trees being all together1 and in a convenient place1 the chances are a hundred to one that you will give them better attention in the way of spraying1 pruning and cultivating--all extremely important in the first year's growth4 ,second1 with the year gained for extra preparation of the soil where they are to be placed permanently1 you can make conditions just right for them to take hold at once and thrive as they could not do otherwise4 ,third1 the shock of transplanting will be much less than when they are shipped from a distance--they will have made an additional growth of dense1 short roots and they will have become acclimated4 ,fourth1 you will not have wasted space and time with any backward black sheep among the lot1 as these should be discarded at the second planting4 ,and then there is one further reason1 psychological perhaps1 but none the less important2 you will watch these little trees1 which are largely the result of your own labor and care1 when set in their permanent positions1 much more carefully than you would those direct from the nursery4 ,i know1 both from experience and observation1 how many thrifty young trees in the home orchard are done to an untimely death by children1 careless workmen1 and other animals4 ,so if you can put a twelve-month curb on your impatience1 get one-year trees and set them out in a straight row right in your vegetable garden where they will take up very little room4 ,keep them cultivated just as thoroughly as the rest of your growing things4 ,melons1 or beans1 or almost any low-growing vegetable can be grown close beside them4 ,if you want your garden to pay for your whole lot of fruit trees this season dig up a hole about three feet in diameter wherever a tree is to go permanently4 ,cut the sod up fine and work in four or five good forkfuls of well rotted manure1 and on these places1 when it is warm enough1 plant a hill of lima pole-beans-the new sort named ,giant-podded ,pole ,lima is the best ,i have yet seen4 ,place a stout pole1 eight to ten feet high1 firmly in each hole4 ,good lima beans are always in demand1 and bring high prices4 ,let us suppose that your trees are at hand1 either direct from the nursery or growing in the garden4 ,you have selected1 if possible1 a moist1 gravelly loam on a slope or slight elevation1 where it is naturally and perfectly drained4 ,good soil drainage is imperative4 ,coarse gravel in the bottom of the planting hole will help out temporarily4 ,if the land is in clover sod1 it will have the ideal preparation1 especially if you can grow a patch of potatoes or corn on it one year1 while your trees are getting further growth4 ,in such land the holes will not have to be prepared4 ,if1 however1 you are not fortunate enough to be able to devote such a space to fruit trees1 and in order to have them at all must place them along your wall or scattered through the grounds1 you can still give them an excellent start by enriching the soil in spots beforehand1 as suggested above in growing lima beans4 ,in the event of finding even this last way inapplicable to your land1 the following method will make success certain3 ,dig out holes three to six feet in diameter 7if the soil is very hard1 the larger dimension71 and twelve to eighteen inches deep4 ,mix thoroughly with the excavated soil a good barrowful of the oldest1 finest manure you can get1 combined with about one-fourth or one-fifth its weight of ,south ,carolina rock 7or acid phosphate1 if you cannot get the rock74 ,it is a good plan to compost the manure and rock in advance1 or use the rock as an absorbent in the stable4 ,fill in the hole again1 leaving room in the center to set the tree without bending or cramping any roots4 ,where any of these are injured or bruised1 cut them off clean at the injured spot with a sharp knife4 ,shorten any that are long and straggling about one-third to one-half their length4 ,properly grown stock should not be in any such condition4 ,remember that a well planted tree will give more fruit in the first ten years than three trees carelessly put in4 ,get the tree so that it will be one to three inches deeper in the soil than when growing in the nursery4 ,work the soil in firmly about the roots with the fingers or a blunt wooden tamper2 do not be afraid to use your feet4 ,when the roots are well covered1 firm the tree in by putting all your weight upon the soil around it4 ,see that it is planted straight1 and if the whip1 or small trunk1 is not straight stake it1 and tie it with rye straw1 raffia or strips of old cloth-never string or wire4 ,if the soil is very dry1 water the root copiously while planting until the soil is about half filled in1 never on the surface1 as that is likely to cause a crust to form and keep out the air so necessary to healthy growth4 ,prune back the leader of the tree-the top above the first lateral branches1 about one-half4 ,peach trees should be cut back more severely4 ,further information in regard to pruning1 and the different needs of the various fruits in regard to this important matter1 will be given in the next chapter4 ,,setting ,standard apple trees1 fully grown1 will require thirty to forty-five feet of space between them each way4 ,it takes1 however1 ten or twelve years after the trees are set before all of this space is needed4 ,a system of fillers1 or inter-planting1 has come into use as a result of this1 which will give at least one hundred per cent1 more fruit for the first ten years4 ,small-growing standards1 standard varieties on dwarf stock1 and also peaches1 are used for this purpose in commercial orchards4 ,but the principle may be applied with equally good results to the home orchard1 or even to the planting of a few scattered trees4 ,the standard dwarfs give good satisfaction as permanent fillers4 ,where space is very limited1 or the fruit must go into the garden1 they may be used in place of the standard sorts altogether4 ,the dwarf trees are1 as a rule1 not so long-lived as the standards1 and to do their best1 need more care in fertilizing and manuring2 but the fruit is just as good2 just as much1 or more1 can be grown on the same area2 and the trees come into bearing two to three years sooner4 ,they cost less to begin with and are also easier to care for1 in spraying and pruning and in picking the fruit4 ,,cultivation ,the home orchard1 to give the very finest quality of fruit1 must be given careful and thorough cultivation4 ,in the case of scattered trees1 where it is not practicable to use a horse1 this can be given by working a space four to six feet wide about each tree4 ,every spring the soil should be loosened up1 with the cultivator or fork1 as the case may be1 and kept stirred during the early part of the summer4 ,unless the soil is rich1 a fertilizer1 high in potash and not too high in nitrogen1 should be given in the spring4 ,manure and phosphate rock1 as suggested above1 is as good as any4 ,in case the foliage is not a deep healthy green1 apply a few handfuls of nitrate of soda1 working it into the soil just before a rain1 around each tree4 ,about ,august #ast the cultivation should be discontinued1 and some cover crop sown4 ,buckwheat and crimson clover is a good combination2 as the former makes a rapid growth it will form1 if rolled down just as the apples are ripening1 a soft cushion upon which the windfalls may drop without injury1 and will furnish enough protection to the crimson clover to carry it through most winters1 even in cold climates4 ,in addition to the filler crops1 where the ground is to be cultivated by horse1 potatoes may be grown between the rows of trees2 or fine hills of melons or squash may be grown around scattered trees1 thus1 incidentally1 saving a great deal of space in the vegetable garden4 ,or why not grow a few extra fancy strawberries in the well cultivated spots about these trees8 ,neither they nor the trees want the ground too rich1 especially in nitrogen1 and conditions suiting the one would be just right for the others4 ,it may seem to the beginner that fruit-growing1 with all these things to keep in mind1 is a difficult task4 ,but it is not4 ,i think ,i am perfectly safe in saying that the rewards from nothing else he can plant and care for are as certain1 and surely none are more satisfactory4 ,if you cannot persuade yourself to try fruit on any larger plan1 at least order half a dozen dwarf trees 7they will cost about twenty cents apiece1 and can be had by mail74 ,they will prove about the best paying investment you ever made4 ,,chapter ,,xvii ,,pruning1 ,,spraying1 ,,harvesting ,the day has gone1 probably forever1 when setting out fruit trees and giving them occasional cultivation1 plowing up the orchard once in several years1 would produce fruit4 ,apples and pears and peaches have occupied no preferred position against the general invasion of the realm of horticulture by insect and fungous enemies4 ,the fruits have1 indeed1 suffered more than most plants4 ,nevertheless there is this encouraging fact3 that1 though the fruits may have been severely attacked1 the means we now have of fighting fruit-tree enemies1 if thoroughly used1 as a rule are more certain of accomplishing their purpose1 and keeping the enemies completely at bay1 than are similar weapons in any other line of horticultural work4 ,with fruit trees1 as with vegetables and flowers1 the most important precaution to be taken against insects and disease is to have them in a healthy1 thriving1 growing condition4 ,it is a part of ,nature's law of the survival of the fittest that any backward or weakling plant or tree seems to fall first prey to the ravages of destructive forces4 ,for these reasons the double necessity of maintaining at all times good fertilization and thorough cultivation will be seen4 ,in addition to these two factors1 careful attention in the matter of pruning is essential in keeping the trees in a healthy1 robust condition4 ,as explained in a previous chapter1 the trees should be started right by pruning the first season to the open-head or vase shape1 which furnishes the maximum of light and air to all parts of the tree4 ,three or four main branches should form the basis of the head1 care being taken not to have them start from directly opposite points on the trunk1 thus forming a crotch and leaving the tree liable to splitting from winds or excessive crops4 ,if the tree is once started right1 further pruning will give little trouble4 ,cut out limbs which cross1 or are likely to rub against each other1 or that are too close together2 and also any that are broken1 decayed1 or injured in any way4 ,for trees thus given proper attention from the start1 a short jackknife will be the only pruning instrument required4 ,the case of the old orchard is more difficult4 ,cutting out too many of the old1 large limbs at one time is sure to give a severe shock to the vitality of the tree4 ,a better plan is1 first1 to cut off close all suckers and all small new-growth limbs1 except a few of the most promising1 which may be left to be developed into large limbs2 and then as these new limbs grow on1 gradually to cut out1 using a fine-tooth saw and painting the exposed surfaces1 the surplus old wood4 ,apples will need more pruning than the other fruits4 ,pears and cherries need the least2 cutting back the ends of limbs enough to keep the trees in good form1 with the removal of an occasional branch for the purpose of letting in light and air1 is all the pruning they will require4 ,of course trees growing on rich ground1 and well cultivated1 will require more cutting back than those growing under poorer conditions4 ,a further purpose of pruning is to effect indirectly a thinning of the fruit1 so that what is grown will be larger and more valuable1 and also that the trees may not become exhausted by a few exceptionally heavy crops4 ,on trees that have been neglected and growing slowly the bark sometimes becomes hard and set4 ,in such cases it will prove beneficial to scrape the bark and give a wash applied with an old broom4 ,whitewash is good for this purpose1 but soda or lye answers the same purpose and is less disagreeably conspicuous4 ,slitting the bark of trunks and the largest limbs is sometimes resorted to1 care being taken to cut through the bark only2 but such practice is objectionable because it leaves ready access to some forms of fungous disease and to borers4 ,where extra fine specimens of fruit are desired1 thinning is practiced4 ,it helps also to prevent the tree from being overtaxed by excessive crops4 ,but where pruning is thoroughly done this trouble is usually avoided4 ,peaches and ,japan plums are especially benefited by thinning1 as they have a great tendency to overbear4 ,the spread of fruit diseases1 especially rot in the fruit itself1 is also to some extent checked4 ,of fruit-tree enemies there are some large sorts which may do great damage in short order--rabbits and field mice4 ,they may be kept away by mechanical protection1 such as wire1 or by heaping the earth up to a height of twelve inches about the tree trunk4 ,or they may be caught with poisoned baits1 such as boiled grain in which a little ,rough on ,rats or similar poison has been mixed4 ,the former method for the small home garden is little trouble1 safer to ,fido and ,tabby1 and the most reliable in effect4 ,insects and scale diseases are not so easily managed2 and that brings us to the question of spraying and of sprays4 ,for large orchards the spray must1 of course1 be applied with powerful and expensive machinery4 ,for the small fruit garden a much simpler and very moderate priced apparatus may be acquired4 ,the most practical of these is the brass-tank compressed-air sprayer1 with extension rod and mist-spray nozzle4 ,or one of the knapsack sprayers may be used4 ,either of these will be of great assistance not only with the fruit trees1 but everywhere in the garden4 ,with care they will last a good many years4 ,whatever type you get1 be sure to get a brass machine2 as cheaper ones1 made of other metal1 quickly corrode from contact with the strong poisons used4 ,,apple ,,enemies ,the insects most commonly attacking the apple are the codlin-moth1 tent-caterpillar1 canker-worm and borer4 ,the codlin-moth lays its eggs on the fruit about the time of the falling of the blossoms1 and the larvae when hatched eat into the young fruit and cause the ordinary wormy apples and pears4 ,owing to these facts1 it is too late to reach the trouble by spraying after the calyx closes on the growing fruit4 ,keep close watch and spray immediately upon the fall of the blossoms1 and repeat the spraying a week or so 7not more than two7 later4 ,for spray use ,paris green at the rate of #a lb41 or arsenate of lead 7paste or powder1 less of the latter3 see accompanying directions7 at the rate of #d lbs4 to #ajj gallons of water1 being careful to have a thorough mixture4 ,during ,july1 tie strips of burlap or old bags around the trunks1 and every week or so destroy all caterpillars caught in these traps4 ,the tent-caterpillar may be destroyed while in the egg state1 as these are plainly visible around the smaller twigs in circular1 brownish masses4 7,see illustration47 ,upon hatching1 also1 the nests are obtrusively visible and may be wiped out with a swab of old bag1 or burned with a kerosene torch4 ,be sure to apply this treatment before the caterpillar begins to leave the nest4 ,the treatment recommended for codlin-moths is also effective for the tent-caterpillar4 ,the canker-worm is another leaf-feeding enemy1 and can be taken care of by the ,paris green or arsenate spray4 ,the railroad-worm1 a small white maggot which eats a small path in all directions through the ripening fruit1 cannot be reached by spraying1 as he starts life inside the fruit2 but where good clean tillage is practiced and no fallen fruit is left to lie and decay under the trees1 he is not apt to give much trouble4 ,the borer's presence is indicated by the dead1 withered appearance of the bark1 beneath which he is at work1 and also by small amounts of sawdust where he entered4 ,dig him out with a sharp pocket-knife1 or kill him inside with a piece of wire4 ,the most troublesome disease of the apple1 especially in wet seasons1 is the apple-scab1 which disfigures the fruit1 both in size and in appearance1 as it causes blotches and distortions4 ,spray with ,bordeaux mixture1 #e-e-ej1 or #c-c-ej 7see formulas below7 three times3 just before the blossoms open1 just as they fall1 and ten days to two weeks after they fall4 ,the second spraying is considered the most important4 ,the ,san ,jos scale is of course really an insect1 though in appearance it seems a disease4 ,it is much more injurious than the untrained fruit grower would suppose1 because indirectly so4 ,it is very tiny1 being round in outline1 with a raised center1 and only the size of a small pinhead4 ,where it has once obtained a good hold it multiplies very rapidly1 makes a scaly formation or crust on the branches1 and causes small red-edged spots on the fruit 7see illustration74 ,for trees once infested1 spray thoroughly both in fall1 after the leaves drop1 and again in spring1 before growth begins4 ,use lime-sulphur wash1 or miscible oil1 one part to ten of water1 thoroughly mixed4 ,,cherry ,,enemies ,sour cherries are more easily grown than the sweet varieties1 and are less subject to the attacks of fruit enemies4 ,sweet cherries are troubled by the curculio1 or fruit-worm1 which attacks also peaches and plums4 ,cherries and plums may be sprayed1 when most of the blossoms are off1 with a strong arsenate of lead solution1 #e to #h lbs4 to #ajj gals4 water4 ,in addition to this treatment1 where the worms have once got a start1 the beetles may be destroyed by spreading a sheet around and beneath the tree1 and every day or so shaking or jarring them off into it1 as described below4 ,,peach ,,enemies ,do not spray peaches4 ,for the curculio1 within a few days after the flowers are off1 take a large sheet of some cheap material to use as a catcher4 ,for large orchards there is a contrivance of this sort1 mounted on a wheelbarrow frame1 but for the home orchard a couple of sheets laid upon the ground1 or one with a slit from one side to the center1 will answer4 ,if four short1 sharp-pointed stakes are fastened to the corners1 and three or four stout hooks and eyes are placed to reunite the slit after the sheet is placed about the tree1 the work can be more thoroughly done1 especially on uneven ground4 ,after the sheet is placed1 with a stout club or mallet1 padded with a heavy sack or something similar to prevent injury to the bark1 give a few sharp blows1 well up from the ground4 ,this work should be done on a cloudy day1 or early in the morning--the colder the better--as the beetles are then inactive4 ,if a considerable number of beetles are caught the operation should be repeated every two or three days4 ,continue until the beetles disappear4 ,peaches are troubled also by borers1 in this case indicated by masses of gum1 usually about the crown4 ,dig out or kill with a wire1 as in the case of the apple-borer4 ,look over the trees for borers every spring1 or better1 every spring and fall4 ,another peach enemy is the yellows1 indicated by premature ripening of the fruit and the formation of stunted leaf tufts1 of a light yellow color4 ,this disease is contagious and has frequently worked havoc in whole sections4 ,owing to the work of the ,agricultural ,department and the various ,state organizations it is now held in check4 ,the only remedy is to cut and burn the trees and replant1 in the same places if desired1 as1 the disease does not seem to be carried by the soil4 ,,pear ,,enemies ,pears are sometimes affected with a scab similar to the apple-scab1 and this is combated by the same treatment--three sprayings with ,bordeaux4 ,a blight which causes the leaves suddenly to turn black and die and also kills some small branches and produces sores or wounds on large branches and trunk1 offers another difficulty4 ,cut out and burn all affected branches and scrape out all sores4 ,disinfect all sores with corrosive sublimate solution--#a to #ajjj--or with a torch1 and paint over at once4 ,,plum ,,enemies ,plums have many enemies but fortunately they can all be effectively checked4 ,first is the curculio1 to be treated as described above4 ,for leaf-blight--spotting and dropping off of the leaves about midsummer--spray with ,bordeaux within a week or so after the falling of the blossoms4 ,this treatment will also help to prevent fruit-rot4 ,in addition to the spraying1 however1 thin out the fruit so that it does not hang thickly enough for the plums to come in contact with each other4 ,in a well kept and well sprayed orchard black-knot is not at all likely to appear4 ,it is very manifest wherever it starts1 causing ugly1 black1 distorted knarls1 at first on the smaller limbs4 ,remove and burn immediately1 and keep a sharp watch for more4 ,as this disease is supposed to be carried by the wind1 see to it that no careless neighbor is supplying you with the germs4 ,as will have been seen from the above1 spraying poisons are of two kinds3 those that work by contact1 which must be used for most sucking insects1 and germs and fungous diseases2 and those that poison internally1 used for leaf-eating insects4 ,of the former sort1 ,bordeaux mixture is the standard1 although within the last few years it has been to a considerable extent replaced by lime-sulphur mixtures1 which are described below4 ,bordeaux is made in various forms4 ,that usually used is the #e-e-ej1 or #e lbs4 copper sulphate1 #e lbs4 unslaked lime1 #ej gals4 water4 ,to save the trouble of making up the mixture each time it is needed make a stock solution as follows3 dissolve the copper sulphate in water at the rate of #a lb4 to #a gal4 ,this should be done the day before1 or at least several hours before1 the ,bordeaux is wanted for use4 ,suspend the sulphate crystals in a cloth or old bag just below the surface of the water4 ,then slake the lime in a tub or tight box1 adding the water a little at a time1 until the whole attains the consistency of thick milk4 ,when necessary1 add water to this mixture if it is kept too long2 never let it dry out4 ,when ready to spray1 pour the stock copper sulphate solution into the tank in the proportion of #e gals4 to every #ej of spray required4 ,add water to amount required4 ,then add stock lime solution1 first diluting about one-half with water and straining4 ,the amount of lime stock solution to be used is determined as follows3 at the druggist's get an ounce of yellow prussiate of potash dissolved in a pint of water1 with a quill in the cork of the bottle so that it may be dropped out4 7,it is poison47 ,when adding the stock lime solution as directed above1 continue until the prussiate testing solution when dropped into the ,bordeaux mixture will no longer turn brown2 then add a little more lime to be on the safe side4 ,all this sounds like a formidable task1 but it is quite simple when you really get at it4 ,remember that all you need is a few pounds each of quicklime and copper sulphate1 an ounce of prussiate of potash and a couple of old kegs or large pails1 in which to keep the stock solutions1 ,lime-sulphur mixtures can be bought1 or mixed by the home orchardist4 ,they have the advantages over ,bordeaux that they do not discolor the foliage or affect the appearance of the fruit4 ,use according to directions1 usually about #a part to #cj of water4 ,these may be used at the same times and for the same purposes as ,bordeaux4 ,lime-sulphur wash is used largely in commercial orcharding1 but it is a nasty mess to prepare and must be used in late fall or winter4 ,for the home orchard one of the miscible oils now advertised will be found more satisfactory4 ,while they cost more1 there is no time or expense for preparation1 as they mix with cold water and are immediately ready for use4 ,they are easier to apply1 more comfortable to handle1 and will not so quickly rot out pumps and spraying apparatus4 ,like the sulphur wash1 use only during late fall and winter4 ,kerosene emulsion is made by dissolving ,ivory1 soft1 whale-oil1 or tar soap in hot water and adding 7away from the stove1 please67 kerosene 7or crude oil72 #a_/b lb4 soap1 #a gal4 water1 #b gals1 kerosene4 ,immediately place in a pail and churn or pump until a thick1 lathery cream results4 ,this is the stock solution3 for use1 dilute with five to fifteen times as much water1 according to purpose applied for--on dormant fruit trees1 #e to #g times2 on foliage1 #aj or even #ae4 ,of the poisons for eating-insects1 arsenate of lead is the best for use in the fruit orchard1 because it will not burn the foliage as ,paris green is apt to do1 and because it stays on longer4 ,it can be used in ,bordeaux and lime-sulphur mixtures1 thus killing two bugs with one spray4 ,it comes usually in the form of a paste--though there is now a brand in powder form 7which ,i have not yet tried74 ,this should be worked up with the fingers 7it is not poison to touch7 or a small wooden paddle1 until thoroughly mixed1 in a small quantity of water and then strained into the sprayer4 ,use1 of the paste forms1 from one- fourth to one lb4 in #bj gals1 clear water4 ,paris green is the old standard4 ,with a modern duster it may be blown on pure without burning1 if carefully done4 ,applied thus it should be put on during a still morning1 before the dew goes4 ,it is safer to use as a spray1 first making a paste with a small quantity of water1 and then adding balance of water4 ,keep constantly stirred while spraying4 ,if lime is added1 weight for weight with the green1 the chances of burning will be greatly reduced4 ,for orchard work1 #a lb4 to #ajj gals4 water is the usual strength4 ,the accompanying table will enable the home orchardist to find quickly the trouble with1 and remedy for1 any of his fruit trees4 ,the quality of fruit will depend very largely upon the care exercised in picking and storing4 ,picking1 carelessly done1 while it may not at the time show any visible bad results1 will result in poor keeping and rot4 ,if the tissue cells are broken1 as many will be by rough handling1 they will be ready to cause rotten spots under the first favorable conditions1 and then the rot will spread4 ,most of the fruits of the home garden1 which do not have to undergo shipping1 will be of better quality where they ripen fully on the tree4 ,pears1 however1 are often ripened in the dark and after picking1 especially the winter sorts4 ,apples and pears for winter use should be kept1 if possible1 in a cold1 dark place1 where there is no artificial heat1 and where the air will be moist1 but never wet1 and where the thermometer will not fall below thirty-two degrees4 ,upon exceptionally cold nights the temperature may be kept up by using an oil stove or letting in heat from the furnace cellar1 if that is adjacent4 ,in such a place1 store the fruit loosely1 on ventilated shelves1 not more than six or eight inches deep4 ,if they must be kept in a heated place1 pack in tight boxes or barrels1 being careful to put away only perfect fruit1 or pack in sand or leaves4 ,otherwise they will lose much in quality by shriveling1 due to lack of moisture in the atmosphere4 ,with care they may be had in prime quality until late in the following spring4 ,,fruit ,,pest ,,remedy ,,times ,,to ,,apply ,,and ,,when ---------------------------------------- --------------------------- ,apple ,apple-scab ,bordeaux #e-e-ej1 or summer #c4--;b ,b ,o--a ,b lime-sulphur spray ,f--f #ad d4 ,apple-maggot ,pick up and destroy all 7,see key below47 or fallen fruits ,railroad worm ,dig out or kill with wire2 ,borer search for in fall and spring ,codlin moth ,arsenate of lead1 #d in #ajj2 or ,paris ,green1 #a in #bjj4 #b4--;a ,b ,f-f ,burlap bands on truck #bj d4 for traps during ,july ,cankerworm ,same as above ,tent- ,same as above1 also wipe out caterpillar out or burn nests ,blister-mite ,lime-sulphur wash2 kerosene ,late fall or emulsion 7dilute #e times7 early spring4 or miscible oil 7#a in #aj gal47 ,bud-moth ,arsenate of lead or ,paris #b4--,when leaves ,green appear--b ,b ,o4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------- ,cherry ,leaf blight ,bordeaux #e-e-ej #d4--;b ,b ,c--a calyx closes--f #ae d--f #ae d4 ,curculio ,arsenate of lead1 #h in #ajj4 #a4--;a ,b ,f4 ,curculio catcher 7see ,plum7 #c times a week ,black-knot ,cut out and burn at once 7see ,plum7 ,fruit-rot ,pick before fully ripe4 spread out in cool airy room ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------- ,peach ,borer ,dig out or kill with wire ,yellows ,pull out and burn tree--replant ,curculio ,do not spray4 ,catch on sheets 7see ,plum7 ,brown-rot ,summer lime-sulphur2 open pruning2 pick rotten fruit #c4--,when fruit is half grown--f #aj d--f #aj d4 ,leaf-curl ,bordeaux #e-e-ej2 lime-sulphur #a--;b buds swell1 wash fall or early spring4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------- ,pear ,blight ,cut out diseased branches2 clean out sores2 disinfect with corrosive sublimate #a in #ajjj2 paint over ,scab ,bordeaux #e-e-ej1 or summer #b4--;b ,b ,o--a ,b sulphur 7see ,apple7 ,o--f #ad d4 ,blister-mite ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------- ,plum ,leaf-blight ,bordeaux or summer sulphur #a4--;,after fruits set4 ,fruit-rot ,same2 also thin fruits so as ,black-knot not to touch 7see ,cherry7 ,curculio also have neighboring trees cleaned up ,jar down on sheets stretched beneath trees and destroy a ,b ,f--cool mornings-#c times a week4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------- ,any ,san ,jos ,lime-sulphur wash1 kerosene ,late fall or scale emulsion1 #e times diluted2 early spring4 miscible oil1 #a in #aj gals ,oyster-shell ,kerosene emulsion ,may or ,june1 scale when young whitish lice appear4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------- a-,after4 b-,before4 d-,days4 f-,follow up in4 ,b-,blossoms4 ,o-,open4 ,f-,fall4 ,do not let yourself be discouraged from growing your own fruit by the necessity for taking good care of your trees4 ,after all1 you do not have to plant them every year1 as you do vegetables1 and they yield a splendid return on the small investment required4 ,do not fail to set out at least a few this year with the full assurance that your satisfaction is guaranteed by the facts in the case4 ,,chapter ,,xviii ,,berries ,,and ,,small ,,fruits ,besides the tree-fruits discussed in the preceding chapters1 there is another class which should be represented in every home garden--the berries and small fruits4 ,these have the advantage of occupying much less room than the former do and are therefore available where the others are not4 ,the methods of giving berries proper cultivation are not so generally known as the methods used with vegetables4 ,otherwise there is no reason why a few of each should not be included in every garden of average size4 ,their requirements are not exacting3 the amount of skill1 or rather of attention1 required to care for them is not more than that required by the ordinary vegetables4 ,in fact1 once they are well established they will demand less time than the annual vegetables4 ,of these small fruits the most popular and useful are3 the strawberry1 the blackberry1 dewberry and raspberry1 the currant1 gooseberry and grape4 ,the strawberry is the most important1 and most amateurs attempt its culture--many1 however1 with indifferent success4 ,this is due1 partly at least1 to the fact that many methods are advocated by successful growers1 and that the beginner is not likely to pick out one and stick to it2 and further1 that he is led to pay more attention to how many layers he will have1 and at what distance he will set the plants1 than to proper selection and preparation of soil and other vital matters4 ,the soil should be well drained and rich--a good garden soil being suitable4 ,the strawberries should not follow sod or corn4 ,if yard manure is used it should be old and well rotted1 so as to be as free as possible from weed seeds4 ,potash1 in some form 7see ,fertilizers7 should be added4 ,the bed should be thoroughly prepared1 so that the plants1 which need careful transplanting1 may take hold at once4 ,a good sunny exposure is preferable1 and a spot where no water will collect is essential4 ,the plants are grown from layers4 ,they are taken in two ways3 7#a7 by rooting the runners in the soil2 and 7#b7 by layering in pots4 ,in the former method they are either allowed to root themselves1 or1 which gives decidedly better results1 by selecting vines from strong plants and pushing them lightly down into the soil where the new crown is to be formed4 ,in the second method1 two-inch or three-inch pots are used1 filling these with soil from the bed and plunging1 or burying1 them level with the surface1 just below where the crown is to be formed1 and holding the vine in place with a small stone1 which serves the additional purpose of marking where the pot is4 ,in either case these layers are made after the fruiting season4 ,,setting ,,the ,,plants ,in using the soil-rooted layers1 it is generally more satisfactory to set them out in spring1 as soon as the ground can be worked1 although they are sometimes set in early fall--,august or ,september--when the ground is in very good condition1 so that a good growth can at once be made4 ,care should be used in transplanting4 ,have the bed fresh2 keep the plants out of the soil as short a time as possible2 set the plants in straight1 and firm the soil2 set just down to the crown--do not cover it4 ,if the soil is dry1 or the season late1 cut off all old leaves before planting2 also shorten back the roots about one-third and be sure not to crowd them when setting1 for which purpose a trowel1 not a dibble1 should be used if the condition of the ground makes the use of any implement necessary4 ,if so dry that water must be used1 apply it in the bottom of the hole4 ,if very hot and dry1 shade for a day or two4 ,,methods ,,of ,,growing ,i describe the three systems most valuable for the home garden3 7#a7 the hill1 7#b7 the matted row1 and 7#c7 the pot-layered4 7#a7 ,in the hill system the plants are put in single rows1 or in beds of three or four rows1 the plants one foot apart and the rows1 or beds1 two or three feet apart4 ,in either case each plant is kept separate1 and all runners are pinched off as fast as they form1 the idea being to throw all the strength into one strong crown4 7#b7 ,in the matted row system the plants are set in single rows1 and the runners set in the bed at five or six inches each side of the plants1 and then trained lengthways of the row1 this making it a foot or so wide4 ,the runners used to make these secondary crowns must be the first ones sent out by the plants2 they should be severed from the parent plants as soon as well rooted4 ,all other runners must be taken off as they form4 ,to keep the beds for a good second crop1 where the space between the rows has been kept cultivated and clean1 cut out the old plants as soon as the first crop of berries is gathered1 leaving the new ones--layered the year before-- about one foot apart4 7#c7 ,the pot-layering system1 especially for a small number of plants1 ,i consider the best4 ,it will be seen that by the above systems the ground is occupied three years1 to get two crops1 and the strawberry season is a short one at best4 ,by this third system the strawberry is made practically an annual1 and the finest of berries are produced4 ,the new plants are layered in pots1 as described above4 ,the layers are taken immediately after the fruit is gathered2 or better still1 because earlier1 a few plants are picked out especially to make runners4 ,in either case1 fork up the soil about the plants to be layered1 and in about fifteen days they will be ready to have the pots placed under them4 ,the main point is to have pot plants ready to go into the new bed as soon as possible after the middle of ,july4 ,these are set out as in the hill system1 and all runners kept pinched off1 so that a large crown has been formed by the time the ground freezes1 and a full crop of the very best berries will be assured for the following spring4 ,the pot-layering is repeated each year1 and the old plants thrown out1 no attempt being made to get a second crop4 ,it will be observed that ground is occupied by the strawberries only the latter half of the one season and the beginning of the next1 leaving ample time for a crop of early lettuce1 cabbage or peas before the plants are set1 say in #aiaa1 and for late cabbage or celery after the bed is thrown out1 in #aiab4 ,thus the ground is made to yield three crops in two years--a very important point where garden space is limited4 ,,cultivation ,whatever system is used--and each has its advocates--the strawberry bed must be kept clean1 and attention given to removing the surplus runners4 ,cultivate frequently enough to keep a dust mulch between the rows1 as advocated for garden crops4 ,at first1 after setting1 the cultivation may be as deep as three or four inches1 but as the roots develop and fill the ground it should be restricted to two inches at most4 ,where a horse is used a ,planet ,jr4 twelve-tooth cultivator will be just the thing4 ,,mulching ,after the ground freezes1 and before severe cold sets in 7about the #ast to the #aeth of ,december7 the bed should be given its winter mulch4 ,bog hay1 which may be obtained cheaply from some nearby farmer1 is about the best material4 ,clean straw will do4 ,cover the entire bed1 one or two inches over the plants1 and two or three between the rows4 ,if necessary1 hold in place with old boards4 ,in spring1 but not before the plants begin to grow1 over each plant the mulch is pushed aside to let it through4 ,besides giving winter protection1 the mulch acts as a clean even support for the berries and keeps the roots cool and moist4 ,,insects ,,and ,,disease ,for white-grub and cut-worm see pages elsewhere in the text4 ,for rust1 which frequently injures the leaves so seriously as to cause practical loss of crop1 choose hardy varieties and change bed frequently4 ,spraying with ,bordeaux1 #e-e-ej1 four or five times during first season plants are set1 and second season just before and just after blossoming1 will prevent it4 ,in making up your strawberry list remember that some varieties have imperfect1 or pistillate blossoms1 and that when such varieties are used a row of some perfect-flowering 7bi- sexual7 sort must be set every nine to twelve feet4 ,,varieties ,new strawberries are being introduced constantly2 also1 they vary greatly in their adaptation to locality4 ,therefore it is difficult to advise as to what varieties to plant4 ,the following1 however1 have proved satisfactory over wide areas1 and may be depended upon to give satisfaction4 ,early crop3--,michel's ,early1 ,haverland1 ,climax2 mid- season crop3--,bubach ,no4 #e1 ,brandywine1 ,marshall1 ,nic4 ,ohmer1 ,wm4 ,belt1 ,glen ,mary1 ,sharplesss2 late crop3--,the ,gandy1 ,sample1 ,lester ,lovett4 ,the blackberry1 dewberry and raspberry are all treated in much the same way4 ,the soil should be well drained1 but if a little clayey1 so much the better4 ,they are planned preferably in early spring1 and set from three or four to six or seven feet apart1 according to the variety4 ,they should be put in firmly4 ,set the plants in about as deep as they have been growing1 and cut the canes back to six or eight inches4 ,if fruit is wanted the same season as bushes are set1 get a few extra plants--they cost but a few cents--and cut back to two feet or so4 ,plants fruited the first season are not likely to do well the following year4 ,two plants may be set in a place and one fruited4 ,if this one is exhausted1 then little will be lost4 ,give clean cultivation frequently enough to maintain a soil mulch1 as it is very necessary to retain all the moisture possible4 ,cultivation1 though frequent1 should be very shallow as soon as the plants get a good start4 ,in very hot seasons1 if the ground is clean1 a summer mulch of old hay1 leaves or rough manure will be good for the same purpose4 ,in growing1 a good stout stake is used for each plant1 to which the canes are tied with some soft material4 ,or1 a stout wire is strung the length of the row and the canes fastened to this--a better way1 however1 being to string two wires1 one on either side of the row4 ,another very important matter is that of pruning4 ,the plants if left to themselves will throw up altogether too much wood4 ,this must be cut out to four or five of the new canes and all the canes that have borne fruit should be cut and burned each season as soon as through fruiting4 ,the canes1 for instance1 that grow in #aiaa will be those to fruit in #aiab1 after which they should be immediately removed4 ,the new canes1 if they are to be self-supporting1 as sometimes grown1 should be cut back when three or four feet high4 ,it is best1 however1 to give support4 ,in the case of those varieties which make fruiting side-shoots1 as most of the black raspberries 7blackcaps7 do1 the canes should be cut back at two to three feet1 and it is well also to cut back these side shoots one-third to one-half1 early in the spring4 ,in cold sections 7,new ,york or north of it7 it is safest to give winter protection by laying down the canes and giving them a mulch of rough material4 ,having them near the ground is in itself a great protection1 as they will not be exposed to sun and wind and will sometimes be covered with snow4 ,for mulching1 the canes are bent over nearly at the soil and a shovelful of earth thrown on the tips to hold them down2 the entire canes may then be covered with soil or rough manure1 but do not put it on until freezing weather is at hand4 ,if a mulch is used1 it must be taken off before growth starts in the spring4 ,,the ,,blackberry ,the large-growing sorts are set as much as six by eight feet apart1 though with careful staking and pruning they may be comfortably handled in less space4 ,the smaller sorts need about four by six4 ,when growth starts1 thin out to four or five canes and pinch these off at about three feet2 or1 if they are to be put on wires or trellis1 they may be cut when tied up the following spring4 ,cultivate1 mulch and prune as suggested above4 ,blackberries will do well on a soil a little dry for raspberries and they do not need it quite so rich1 as in this case the canes do not ripen up sufficiently by fall1 which is essential for good crops4 ,if growing rank they should be pinched back in late ,august4 ,when tying up in the spring1 the canes should be cut back to four or five feet and the laterals to not more than eighteen inches4 ,blackberry enemies do not do extensive injury1 as a rule1 in well- cared-for beds4 ,the most serious are3 7#a7 the rust or blight1 for which there is no cure but carefully pulling and burning the plants as fast as infested2 7#b7 the blackberry-bush borer1 for which burn infested canes2 and 7#c7 the recently introduced bramble flea-louse1 which resembles the green plant-louse or aphis except that it is a brisk jumper1 like the flea-beetle4 ,the leaves twist and curl up in summer and do not drop off in the fall4 ,on cold early mornings1 or wet weather1 while the insects are sluggish1 cut all infested shoots1 collecting them in a tight box1 and burn4 ,,blackberry ,,varieties ,as with the other small fruits1 so many varieties are being introduced that it is difficult to give a list of the best for home use4 ,any selections from the following1 however1 will prove satisfactory1 as they are tried-and-true3--,early ,king1 ,early ,harvest1 ,wilson ,junior1 ,kittatinny1 ,rathburn1 ,snyder1 ,erie4 ,,the ,,dewberry ,this is really a trailing blackberry and needs the same culture1 except that the canes are naturally slender and trailing and therefore1 for garden culture1 must have support4 ,they may be staked up1 or a barrel hoop1 supported by two stakes1 makes a good support4 ,in ripening1 the dewberry is ten to fourteen days earlier than the blackberry1 and for that reason a few plants should be included in the berry patch4 ,premo is the earliest sort1 and ,lucretia the standard4 ,,raspberry ,the black and the red types are distinct in flavor1 and both should be grown4 ,the blackcaps need more room1 about three by six or seven feet2 for the reds three by five feet will be sufficient4 ,the blackcaps1 and a few of the reds1 like ,cuthbert1 throw out fruiting side branches1 and should have the main canes cut back at about two and a half feet to encourage the growth of these laterals1 which1 in the following spring1 should be cut back to about one-third their length4 ,the soil for raspberries should be clayey if possible1 and moist1 but not wet4 ,,raspberry ,,enemies ,the orange rust1 which attacks the blackberry also1 is a serious trouble4 ,pull up and burn all infested plants at once1 as no good remedy has as yet been found4 ,the cut-worm1 especially in newly set beds1 may sometimes prove destructive of the sprouting young canes4 ,the raspberry-borer is the larva of a small1 flattish1 red-necked beetle1 which bores to the center of the canes during summer growth1 and kills them4 ,cut and burn4 ,,raspberry ,,varieties ,of the blackcaps1 ,gregg1 ,mc,cormick1 ,munger1 ,cumberland1 ,columbian1 ,palmer 7very early71 and ,eureka 7late71 are all good sorts4 ,reds3 ,cuthbert1 ,cardinal 7new71 ,turner1 ,reliance1 ,the ,king 7extra early71 ,loudon 7late74 ,yellow3 ,golden ,queen4 ,,currants ,the currant and gooseberry are very similar in their cultural requirements4 ,a deep1 rich and moist soil is the best--approaching a clayey loam4 ,there need be no fear of giving too much manure1 but it should be well rotted4 ,plenty of room1 plenty of air1 plenty of moisture1 secured where necessary by a soil or other mulch in hot dry weather1 are essential to the production of the best fruit4 ,the currant will stand probably as much abuse as any plant the home gardener will have to deal with4 ,stuck in a corner1 smothered in sod1 crowded with old wood1 stripped by the currant-worm1 it still struggles along from year to year1 ever hopefully trying to produce a meager crop of poor fruit4 ,but these are not the sort you want4 ,although it is so tough1 no fruit will respond to good care more quickly4 ,to have it do well1 give it room1 four or five feet each way between bushes4 ,manure it liberally2 give it clean cultivation1 and as the season gets hot and dry1 mulch the soil1 if you would be certain of a full-sized1 full-flavored crop4 ,two bushes1 well cared for1 will yield more than a dozen half-neglected ones4 ,anywhere north of ,new ,york a full crop every year may be made almost certain4 ,,pruning ,,currants ,besides careful cultivation1 to insure the best of fruit it is necessary to give some thought to the matter of pruning4 ,the most convenient and the most satisfactory way is to keep it in the bush form4 ,set the plants singly1 three or four feet apart1 and so cut the new growth1 which is generously produced1 as to retain a uniform bush shape1 preferably rather open in the center4 ,the fruit is produced on wood two or more years old4 ,therefore cut out branches either when very small1 or not until four or five years later1 after it has borne two or three crops of fruit4 ,therefore1 in pruning currants1 take out 7#a7 superfluous young growth2 7#b7 old hard wood 7as new wood will produce better fruit72 and 7#c7 all weak1 broken1 dead or diseased shoots2 7#d7 during summer1 if the tips of the young growths kept for fruiting are pinched off1 they will ripen up much better-- meaning better fruit when they bear2 7#e7 to maintain a good form1 the whole plant may be cut back 7never more than one-third7 in the fall4 ,in special situations it may be advisable to train the currant to one or a few main stems1 as against a wall2 this can be done1 but it is less convenient4 ,also it brings greater danger from the currant-borer4 ,the black currant1 used almost entirely for culinary or preserving purposes1 is entirely different from the red and white ones4 ,they are much larger and should be put five to six feet apart4 ,some of the fruit is borne on one-year-old wood1 so the shoots should not be cut back4 ,moreover1 old wood bears as good fruit as the new growth1 and need not be cut out1 unless the plant is getting crowded1 for several years4 ,as the wood is much heavier and stronger than the other currants1 it is advisable gradually to develop the black currants into the tree form4 ,,enemies ,,of ,,the ,,currant ,the worst of these is the common currant-worm4 ,when he appears1 which will be indicated by holes eaten in the lower leaves early in spring1 generally before the plants bloom1 spray at once with ,paris green4 ,if a second brood appears1 spray with white hellebore 7if this is not all washed off by the rain1 wipe from the fruit when gathered74 ,for the borer1 cut and burn every infested shoot4 ,examine the bushes in late fall1 and those in which the borers are at work will usually have a wilted appearance and be of a brownish color4 ,,varieties ,,of ,,currants ,red ,dutch1 while older and smaller than some of the newer varieties1 is hardier and not so likely to be hurt by the borer4 ,london ,market1 ,fay's ,prolific1 ,perfection 7new71 and ,prince ,albert1 are good sorts4 ,white ,grape is a good white4 ,naples1 and ,lee's ,prolific are good black sorts4 ,,the ,,gooseberry ,this is given practically the same treatment as the currant4 ,it is even more important that it should be given the coolest1 airiest1 location possible1 and the most moist soil4 ,even a partially shaded situation will do1 but in such situations extra care must be taken to guard against the mildew--which is mentioned below4 ,summer mulching is1 of course1 of special benefit4 ,in pruning the gooseberry1 it is best to cut out to a very few1 or even to a single stem4 ,keep the head open1 to allow free circulation of air4 ,the extent of pruning will make a great difference in the size of the fruit2 if fruit of the largest size is wanted1 prune very close4 ,all branches drooping to the ground should be removed4 ,keep the branches1 as much as possible1 from touching each other4 ,,gooseberry ,,enemies ,the currant-worm attacks the gooseberry also1 and is effectively handled by the arsenate of lead1 ,paris green or hellebore spraying1 mentioned above4 ,the great trouble in growing gooseberries successfully is the powdery mildew--a dirty1 whitish fungous growth covering both fruit and leaves4 ,it is especially destructive of the foreign varieties1 the culture of which1 until the advent of the potassium sulfide spray1 was being practically abandoned4 ,use #a oz4 of potassium sulfide 7liver of sulphur7 to #b gals4 water1 and mix just before using4 ,spray thoroughly three or four times a month1 from the time the blossoms are opening until fruit is ripe4 ,,gooseberry ,,varieties ,of the native gooseberries--which are the hardiest1 ,downing and ,houghton's ,seedling are most used4 ,industry is an ,english variety1 doing well here4 ,golden ,prolific1 ,champion1 and ,columbus1 are other good foreign sorts1 but only when the mildew is successfully fought off4 ,,the ,,grape ,no garden is so small that there cannot be found in it room for three or four grape-vines2 no fruit is more certain1 and few more delicious4 ,if it is convenient1 a situation fully exposed to the sun1 and sloping slightly1 will be preferable4 ,but any good soil1 provided only it is rich and thoroughly drained1 will produce good results4 ,if a few vines are to be set against walls1 or in other out-of-the-way places1 prepare the ground for them by excavating a good-sized hole1 putting in a foot of coal cinders or other drainage material1 and refilling with good heavy loam1 enriched with old1 well rotted manure and half a peck of wood ashes4 ,for culture in the garden1 such special preparation will not be necessary--although1 if the soil is not in good shape1 it will be advisable slightly to enrich the hills4 ,one or two-year roots will be the most satisfactory to buy4 ,they may be set in either fall or spring--the latter time1 for ,new ,york or north1 being generally preferable4 ,when planting1 the cane should be cut back to three or four eyes1 and the roots should also be shortened back-- usually about one-third4 ,be sure to make the hole large enough1 when setting1 to let the roots spread naturally1 and work the soil in well around them with the fingers4 ,set them in firmly1 by pressing down hard with the ball of the foot after firming by hand4 ,they are set about six feet apart4 ,,grape ,,pruning ,as stated above1 the vine is cut back1 when planting1 to three or four eyes4 ,the subsequent pruning--and the reader must at once distinguish between pruning1 and training1 or the way in which the vines are placed--will determine more than anything else the success of the undertaking4 ,grapes depend more upon proper pruning than any other fruit or vegetable in the garden4 ,two principles must be kept track of in this work4 ,first principle3 the annual crop is borne only on canes of the same year's growth1 springing from wood of the previous season's growth4 ,second principle3 the vine1 if left to itself1 will set three or four times the number of bunches it can properly mature4 ,as a result of these facts1 the following system of pruning has been developed and must be followed for sure and full-sized crops4 7#a7 ,at time of planting1 cut back to three or four eyes1 and after these sprout leave only one 7or two7 of them1 which should be staked up4 7#b7 ,following winter 7,december to ,march71 leave only one cane and cut this back to three or four eyes4 7#c7 ,second growing season1 save only two canes1 even if several sprout1 and train these to stake or trellis4 ,these two vines1 or arms1 branching from the main stem1 form the foundation for the one-year canes that bear the fruit4 ,however1 to prevent the vine's setting too much fruit 7see second principle above7 these arms must be cut back in order to limit the number of fruit-bearing canes that will spring from them1 therefore3 7#d7 ,second winter pruning1 cut back these arms to eight or ten buds-- and we have prepared for the first crop of fruit1 about forty bunches1 as the fruiting cane from each bud will bear two bunches on the average4 ,however these main arms will not bear fruiting-canes another year 7see first principle above7 and therefore3 7#e7 ,at the third winter pruning1 7a7 of the canes that bore fruit1 only the three or four nearest the main stem or trunk are left2 7b7 these are cut back to eight or ten buds each1 and 7c7 everything else is ruthlessly cut away4 ,each succeeding year the same system is continued1 care being taken to rub off1 each ,may1 buds or sprouts starting on the main trunk or arms4 ,the wood1 in addition to being cut back1 must be well ripened2 and the wood does not ripen until after the fruit4 ,it therefore sometimes becomes necessary to cut out some of the bunches in order to hasten the ripening of the rest4 ,at the same time the application of some potash fertilizer will be helpful4 ,if the bunches do not ripen up quickly and pretty nearly together1 the vine is overloaded and being damaged for the following year4 ,the matter of pruning being mastered1 the question of training is one of individual choice4 ,poles1 trellises1 arbors1 walls--almost anything may be used4 ,the most convenient system1 however1 and the one ,i would strongly recommend for practical home gardening for results1 is known as the 7modified7 ,kniffen system4 ,it is simplicity itself4 ,a stout wire is stretched five or six feet above the ground2 to this the single main trunks of the vine run up1 and along it are stretched the two or three arms from which the fruiting-canes hang down4 ,they occupy the least possible space1 so that garden crops may be grown practically on the same ground4 ,i have never seen it tried1 but where garden space is limited ,i should think that the asparagus bed and the ,kniffen grape- arbor just described could be combined to great advantage by placing the vines1 in spaces left for them1 directly in the asparagus row4 ,of course the ground would have to be manured for two crops4 ,a #b-h-aj fertilizer is right for the grapes4 ,if using stable manure1 apply also ashes or some other potash fertilizer4 ,if the old-fashioned arbor is used1 the best way is to run the main trunk up over it and cut the laterals back each year to two or three eyes4 ,the most serious grape trouble which the home gardener is likely to encounter is the black-rot ,where only a few grapes are grown the simplest way of overcoming this disease is to get a few dozen cheap manila store-bags and fasten one1 with a couple of ten-penny nails1 over each bunch4 ,cut the mouth of the bag at sides and edges1 cover the bunch1 fold the flaps formed over the cane1 and fasten4 ,they are put on after the bunches are well formed and hasten the ripening of the fruit1 as well as protecting it4 ,on a larger scale1 spraying will have to be resorted to4 ,use ,bordeaux1 #e-e-ej1 from third leaf's appearance to middle of ,july2 balance of season with ammoniacal copper carbonate4 ,the spray should be applied in particular just before every rain-- especially on the season's growth4 ,besides the spraying1 all trimmed- off wood1 old leaves and twigs1 withered bunches and grapes1 or mummies1 and refuse of every description1 should be carefully raked up in the spring and burned or buried4 ,also give clean culture and keep the main stems clean4 ,the grape completes the list of the small fruits worth while to the average home gardener4 ,if you have not already experimented with them1 do not let your garden go longer without them4 ,they are all easily obtained 7none costing more than a few cents each71 and a very limited number will keep the family table well supplied with healthy delicacies1 which otherwise1 in their best varieties and condition1 could not be had at all4 ,the various operations of setting out1 pruning and spraying will soon become as familiar as those in the vegetable garden4 ,there is no reason why every home garden should not have its few rows of small fruits1 yielding their delicious harvests in abundance4 ,,chapter ,,xix ,a ,,calendar ,,of ,,operations ,one of the greatest difficulties in gardening is to get things started ahead at the proper time1 and yet upon the thoroughness with which this is done the success of the garden must depend1 in large measure4 ,the reader may remember that in a previous chapter 7,chapter ,,iv7 the importance of accurately planning the work ahead was emphasized4 ,i mentioned there the check list used to make sure that everything would be carried out1 or started ahead at the proper time--as with the sowing of seeds4 ,the following garden operations1 given month by month1 will serve not only as a timely reminder of things to be done1 but as the basis for such a check list4 ,the importance of the preparations in all matters of gardening1 is of course obvious4 ,,january ,probably one of the good resolutions made with the ,new ,year was a better garden for the coming summer4 ,the psychologists claim that the only hope for resolutions is to nail them down at the start with an action--that seems to have more effect in making an actual impression on the brain4 ,so start the good work along by sending at once for several of the leading seed catalogues4 ,planting ,plan4 ,make out a list of what you are going to want this year1 and then make your ,planting ,plan4 ,see ,chapter ,,iv4 ,seeds4 ,order your seed4 ,do it now while the seedsman's stock is full2 while he is not rushed2 while there is ample time to rectify mistakes if any occur4 ,manures4 ,altogether too few amateur gardeners realize the great importance of procuring early every pound of manures1 of any kind1 to be had4 ,it often may be had cheaply at this time of year1 and by composting1 adding phosphate rock1 and several turnings1 if you have any place under cover where it can be collected1 you can double its value before spring4 ,frames4 ,even at this season of the year do not fail to air the frames well on warm days4 ,practically no water will be needed1 but if the soil does dry out sufficiently to need it1 apply early on a bright morning4 ,onions4 ,it will not be too early1 this month1 to sow onions for spring transplanting outside4 ,get a packet each of ,prizetaker1 ,ailsa ,craig1 ,mammoth ,silver-skin1 or ,gigantic ,gibraltar4 ,lettuce4 ,sow lettuce for spring crop under glass or in frames4 ,fruit4 ,this is a good month to prune grapes1 currants1 gooseberries and peach trees1 to avoid the rush that will come later4 ,,february ,hotbeds4 ,a little early for making them until after the #aeth1 but get all your material ready--manure1 selected and stacked2 lumber ready for any new ones2 sash all in good repair4 ,starting ,seeds4 ,first part of the month1 earliest planting of cabbage1 cauliflower and lettuce should be made2 and two to four weeks later for main early crop4 ,at this time also1 beets and earliest celery4 ,tools4 ,overhaul them all now2 order repairs4 ,get new catalogues and study new improvements and kinds you do not possess4 ,poles and brush4 ,whether you use the old-fashioned sort 7now harder to obtain than they used to be7 or make your poles and use wire trellis for peas1 attend to it now4 ,fruit4 ,finish up last month's work1 if not all done4 ,also examine plum and cherry trees for black-knot4 ,,march ,hotbeds4 ,if not made last of ,february1 should be made at once4 ,some of the seed sown last month will be ready for transplanting and going into the frames2 also lettuce sown in ,january4 ,radish and carrot 7forcing varieties7 may be sown in alternating rows4 ,give much more air2 water on bright mornings2 be careful not to have them caught by suddenly cold nights after a bright warm day4 ,seed-sowing under glass4 ,last sowing of early cabbage and early summer cabbages 7like ,succession71 lettuce1 rhubarb 7for seedling plants71 cauliflower1 radish1 spinach1 turnip1 and early tomatoes2 towards last of month1 late tomatoes and first of peppers1 and egg- plant4 ,sweet peas often find a place in the vegetable garden2 start a few early1 to set out later2 they will do better than if started outside4 ,start tomatoes for growing in frames4 ,for early potatoes sprout in sand4 ,planting1 outside4 ,if an early spring1 and the ground is sufficiently dry1 sow onions1 lettuce1 beet1 radish1 7sweet peas71 smooth peas1 early carrot1 cabbage1 leek1 celery 7main crop71 and turnip4 ,set out new beds of asparagus1 rhubarb and sea-kale 7be sure to try a few plants of the latter74 ,manure and fork up old beds of above4 ,fruit4 ,prune now1 apple1 plum and pear trees4 ,and this is the last chance for lime-sulphur and miscible-oil sprays4 ,,april ,now the rush is on6 ,plan your work1 and work your plan4 ,but do not yield to the temptation to plant more than you can look out for later on4 ,remember it is much easier to sow seeds than to pull out weeds4 ,the ,frames4 ,air6 water6 and do not let the green plant-lice or the white-fly get a ghost of a chance to start4 ,almost every day the glass should be lifted entirely off4 ,care must be taken never to let the soil or flats become dried out2 toward the end of the month1 if it is bright and warm1 begin watering towards evening instead of in early morning1 as you should have been doing through the winter4 ,if proper attention is given to ventilation and moisture1 there will not be much danger from the green plant-louse 7aphis7 and white-fly1 but at the first sign of one fight them to a finish4 ,use kerosene emulsion1 tobacco dust1 tobacco preparations1 or ,aphine4 ,seed sowing4 ,under glass3 tomato1 egg-plant and peppers4 ,on sod3 corn1 cucumbers1 melons1 early squash1 lima beans4 ,planting1 outside4 ,onions1 lettuce1 beet1 etc41 if not put in last month2 also parsnip1 salsify1 parsley1 wrinkled peas1 endive4 ,toward the end of this month 7or first part of next7 second plantings of these4 ,set out plants of early cabbage 7and the cabbage group7 lettuce1 onion sets1 sprouted potatoes1 beets1 etc4 ,in the ,garden4 ,cultivate between rows of sowed crops2 weed out by hand just as soon as they are up enough to be seen2 watch for cut- worms and root-maggots4 ,fruit4 ,thin out all old blackberry canes1 dewberry and raspberry canes 7if this was not done1 as it should have been1 directly after the fruiting season last summer74 ,be ready for first spraying of early- blossoming trees4 ,set out new strawberry beds1 small fruits and fruit trees4 ,,may ,keep ahead of the weeds4 ,this is the month when those warm1 south1 driving rains often keep the ground too wet to work for days at a time1 and weeds grow by leaps and bounds4 ,woe betide the gardener whose rows of sprouting onions1 beets1 carrots1 etc41 once become green with wild turnip and other rapid-growing intruders4 ,clean cultivation and slight hilling of plants set out are also essential4 ,the ,frames4 ,these will not need so much attention now1 but care must be taken to guard tender plants1 such as tomatoes1 egg-plant and peppers1 against sudden late frosts4 ,the sash may be left off most of the time4 ,water copiously and often4 ,planting1 outside4 ,first part of the month3 early beans1 early corn1 okra and late potatoes may be put in2 and first tomatoes set out --even if a few are lost--they are readily replaced4 ,finish setting out cabbage1 lettuce1 cauliflower1 beets1 etc41 from frames4 ,latter part of month1 if warm3 corn1 cucumbers1 some of sods from frames and early squash as traps where late crop is to be planted or set4 ,fruit4 ,be on time with first sprayings of late-blossoming fruits--apples1 etc4 ,rub off from grape vines the shoots that are not wanted4 ,,june ,frequent1 shallow cultivation6 ,firm seeds in dry soil4 ,plant wax beans1 lima beans1 pole beams1 melons1 corn1 etc41 and successive crops of lettuce1 radish1 etc4 ,top-dress growing crops that need special manure 7such as nitrate of soda on onions74 ,prune tomatoes1 and cut out some foliage for extra early tomatoes4 ,toward end of month set celery and late cabbage4 ,also sow beans1 beets1 corn1 etc41 for early fall crops4 ,spray where necessary4 ,allow asparagus to grow to tops4 ,fruit4 ,attend to spraying fruit trees and currants and gooseberries4 ,make pot-layers of strawberries for ,july setting4 ,,july ,maintain frequent1 shallow cultivation4 ,set out late cabbage1 cauliflower1 broccoli1 leeks and celery4 ,sow beans1 beets1 corn1 etc41 for late fall crops4 ,irrigate where needed4 ,fruit4 ,pinch back new canes of blackberry1 dewberry and raspberry4 ,rub off second crop of buds on grapes4 ,thin out if too many bunches2 also on plums1 peaches and other fruit too thick1 or touching4 ,pot-layered strawberries may be set out4 ,,august ,keep the garden clean from late weeds--especially purslane1 the hot- weather weed pest1 which should be always removed from the garden and burned or rotted down4 ,sow spinach1 rutabaga turnip1 bush beans and peas for last fall crop4 ,during first part of month1 late celery may still be put out4 ,sow lettuce for early fall crop1 in frames4 ,first lot of endive should be tied up for blanching4 ,fruit4 ,strawberries may be set1 and pot-layered plants1 if wanted to bear a full crop the following season1 should be put in by the ,thin out and bag grapes4 ,,september ,frames4 ,set in lettuce started in ,august4 ,sow radishes and successive crop of lettuce4 ,cooler weather begins to tell on late- planted crops4 ,give cabbage1 cauliflower1 etc41 deeper cultivation4 ,handle celery wanted for early use4 ,harvest and store onions4 ,get squash under cover before frost4 ,from the #aeth to #beth sow spinach1 onions1 borecole for wintering over4 ,sow down thickly to rye all plots as fast as cleared of summer crops2 or plow heavy land in ridges4 ,attend to draining4 ,fruit4 ,trees may be set4 ,procure barrels for storing fruit in winter4 ,at harvest time it is often impossible to get them at any price4 ,,october ,get ready for winter4 ,blanch rest of endive4 ,bank celery1 to be used before ,christmas1 where it is4 ,gather tomatoes1 melons1 etc41 to keep as long as possible4 ,keep especially clean and well cultivated all crops to be wintered over4 ,late in the month store cabbage and cauliflower2 also beets1 carrots1 and other root crops4 ,get boxes1 barrels1 bins1 sand or sphagnum moss ready beforehand1 to save time in packing4 ,clean the garden2 store poles1 etc41 worth keeping over2 burn everything else that will not rot2 and compost everything that will4 ,fruit4 ,harvest apples1 etc4 ,pick winter pears just before hard frosts1 and store in dry dark place4 ,,november ,frames4 ,make deep hotbeds for winter lettuce and radishes4 ,construct frames for use next spring4 ,see that vegetables in cellar1 bins1 and sheds are safe from freezing4 ,trench or store celery for spring use4 ,take in balance of all root crops if any remain in the ground1 except1 of course1 parsnip and salsify for spring use4 ,put rough manure on asparagus and rhubarb beds4 ,get mulch ready for spinach1 etc41 to be wintered over1 if they occupy exposed locations4 ,fruit4 ,obtain marsh or salt hay for mulching strawberries4 ,cut out old wood of cane-fruits--blackberries1 etc41 if not done after gathering fruit4 ,look over fruit trees for borers4 ,,december ,cover celery stored last month1 if trenched out-of-doors4 ,use only light1 loose material at first1 gradually covering for winter4 ,put mulch on spinach1 etc4 ,fruit4 ,mulch strawberries4 ,prune grape-vines2 make first application of winter sprays for fruit trees4 ,,and ,,then set about procuring manures of all kinds from every available source4 ,remember that anything which will rot will add to the value of your manure pile4 ,muck1 lime1 old plastering1 sods1 weeds 7earth and all71 street1 stable and yard sweepings--all these and numerous others will increase your garden successes of next year4 ,,chapter ,,xx ,,conclusion ,it is with a feeling in which there is something of fear that ,i close these pages--fear that many of those little things which become second nature to the grower of plants and seem unimportant1 but which sometimes are just the things that the beginner wants to know about1 may have been inadvertently left out4 ,in every operation described1 however1 ,i have tried to mention all necessary details4 ,i would urge the reader1 nevertheless1 to study as thoroughly as possible all the garden problems with which he will find himself confronted and to this end recommend that he read several of the many garden books which are now to be had4 ,it must be to his advantage to see even the same subjects presented again from other points of view4 ,the more familiar he can make himself1 both in theory and in practice1 with all the multitude of operations which modern gardening involves1 the greater success will he attain4 ,personally1 the further ,i have gone into the growing of things--and that has now become my business as well as my pleasure--the more absorbingly interesting ,i find it4 ,each season1 each crop1 offers its own problems and a reward for the correct solution of them4 ,it is a work which1 even to the beginner1 presents the opportunity of deducting new conclusions1 trying new experiments1 making new discoveries4 ,it is a work which offers pleasant and healthy recreation to the many whose days must be1 for the most part1 spent in office or shop2 and it gives very substantial help in the world-old problem of making both ends meet4 ,let the garden beginner be not disappointed if he does not succeed1 for the first season or two1 or possibly three1 with everything he plants4 ,there is usually a preventable reason for the failure1 and studious observation will reveal it4 ,with the modern success in the application of insecticides and fungicides1 and the extension of the practice of irrigation1 the subject of gardening begins to be reduced to a scientific and 7what is more to the point7 a sure basis4 ,we are getting control of the uncertain factors4 ,all this affects first1 perhaps1 the person who grows for profit1 but with our present wide circulation of every new idea and discovery in such matters1 it must reach soon to every remote home garden patch which is cared for by a wide-awake gardener4 ,such a person1 from the fact that he or she is reading a new garden book1 ,i take the reader to be4 ,i hope this volume1 condensed though it is1 has added to your fund of practical garden information2 that it will help to grow that proverbial second blade of grass4 ,i have only to add1 as ,i turn again to the problems waiting for me in field and under glass1 that ,i wish you all success in your work--the making of better gardens in ,america4