,transcrib]'s ,note ,italic text display$ z3 italic ,,?ree ,,textile ,,raw ,,mat]ials ,,& ,,_! ,,manufacture ,illu/ration3 ,decoration ,,int]national ,,acceptance ,,bank1 ,,inc4 ,,new ,,york ,copyright1 #aibd ,,int]national ,,acceptance ,,bank1 ,,inc4 ,,new ,,york ,,cont5ts ,"p ,"o ,,cotton ,page ,,*apt] ,i ,! ,raw ,mat]ial #i ,,*apt] ,,ii ,! ,manufacture ( ,cotton #ai ,,*apt] ,,iii ,f ,mill to ,consum] #di ,,*apt] ,,iv ,! ,position ( ! ,unit$ ,/ates #eb ,"p ,two ,,wool ,,*apt] ,i ,! ,raw ,mat]ial #ei ,,*apt] ,,ii ,wor/$ ,manufacture #fg ,,*apt] ,,iii ,wool5 ,manufacture #ha ,,*apt] ,,iv ,! ,economic ,aspect #hi ,"p ,?ree ,,silk ,,*apt] ,i ,! ,raw ,mat]ial #ig ,,*apt] ,,ii ,reel+ #ajd ,,*apt] ,,iii ,m>ket+ ,raw ,silk #aji ,,*apt] ,,iv ,! ,manufacture ( ,?r[n & ,spun ,silk #aae ,,*apt] ,v ,weav+ & ,f9i%+ #abj ,,*apt] ,,vi ,artificial ,silk #abc ,illu/ration3 ,cotton ,bolls ,,preface ,! importance ( ! ?ree ma9 textiles 9 ! civiliz$ life ( today is probably b vaguely realiz$ by ! majority ( p4 ,9 ?is c\ntry we consume raw cotton alone at ! rate ( ab\t tw5ty-six p\nds p] capita ea* ye>1 :i* if translat$ to y>ds ( clo? & o!r fabric1 w\ld make a /rip long] ?an ! di/ance f ! e>? to ! moon1 & a y>d wide all ! way4 ,add wool & silk to ?is & ! picture becomes ev5 m impressive4 ,!re is n a man1 woman or *ild :o does n use "o or all ?ree ( ^! textiles 9 daily life4 ,) ?is 9 m9d we submit ?is brief description ( h[ !y are produc$1 emphasiz+ 9 p>ticul> ! developm5t ( ! raw mat]ial 9 ea* case4 ,p>ts ,i & ,,ii are practically revis$ editions ( 8,cotton & ,cotton ,manufacture0 & 8,wool & ,wool ,manufacture0 :i* 7 writt5 by ,james ,paul ,w>burg 9 #aiba & #aibj1 respectively1 & publi%$ by ! ,fir/ ,national ,bank ( ,bo/on1 ) :om he 0 !n associat$4 ,we take ?is occasion to ackn[l$ge ! extreme c\rtesy ( ! ,fir/ ,national ,bank ( ,bo/on 9 all[+ ! use ( ?is mat]ial4 ,"p ,,iii1 deal+ ) ,silk1 has be5 newly compil$ by ,b5jam9 ,/rong1 ,jr41 ( ! ,int]national ,acceptance ,bank1 ,inc4 ,no attempt has be5 made 9 ^! /udies to ent] v deeply into ! te*nical processes involv$1 ! purpose be+ m to give a cond5s$ outl9e ( ! subject f ! layman's po9t ( view4 ,:ile actual survey & obs]vation 7 ext5sively made 9 ea* case1 a great "p ( ! mat]ial has ( necessity be5 obta9$ f /&>d works on ^! subjects4 ,9 ?is connection we wi% especially to r5d] ackn[l$gm5t to ,pr(essor ,m4 ,t4 ,copel& ( ,h>v>d ,univ]sity1 ^: /udies 7 freely us$ by ! au?or ( ,"p ,i on ,cotton4 ,9 ! case ( ,silk1 we are p>ticul>ly grateful to ,mr4 ,w4 ,d4 ,d>by1 ^: 8,silk1 ,! ,que5 ( ,fabrics0 has be5 ( invaluable assi/ance4 ,to ! _m fri5ds 9 ! textile trades :o h provid$ opportunities = fir/ h& obs]vation1 z well z a weal? ( in=mation1 we t5d] our s9c]e ?anks & grateful appreciation4 ,,int]national ,,acceptance ,,bank1 ,,inc4 ,new ,york1 ,n4 ,y41 ,octob]1 #aibd4 ,,"p ,,"o ,,cotton ,by ,,james ,,paul ,,w>burg ,vice-,presid5t ,,int]national ,,acceptance ,,bank1 ,,inc4 ,photographs by c\rtesy ( ! ,pacific ,mills & ,key/one ,view ,co4 ,illu/ration3 ,cotton ,field ,,*apt] ,i ,,! ,,raw ,,mat]ial #a4 ,,! ,,cotton ,,plant ,sid5ote3 ,d]ivation ( ,names ,! ^w1 8,cotton01 is said to be d]iv$ f an ,arabic ^w1 8,qutun01 orig9ally mean+ flax2 & ! botanical "n ( ! plant1 ,gossypium1 signify+ ! fleece worn1 0 fir/ f\nd 9 ! writ+s ( ,pl9y1 & is d]iv$ f ! ,sanskrit4 ,?us1 9 ! m]e orig9s ( ! colloquial & sci5tific designations ( ! plant1 we h ample pro( ( its antiquity4 ,sid5ote3 ,botanical ,types ,! cotton plant belongs to ! mall[ family & is a native ( ! tropics4 ,! g5us has a great _m botanical v>ieties1 all ( :i*1 9 ! wild /ate1 are p]5nial1 b "u cultivation t5d to become annual4 ,"o v>iety1 ,gossypium ,arboreum1 :i* is f\nd *iefly 9 ,mexico & ,brazil1 atta9s a height ( ov] fifte5 feet4 ,?is tree cotton1 h[ev]1 has n be5 ext5sively cultivat$ because ( ! obvi\s exp5se ( pick+4 ,( ! h]bace\s v>ieties ! mo/ commonly kn[n are ! ,am]ican & ! long-/aple ,egyptian4 ,g4 ,b>bad5se1 kn[n z ,sea ,isl& cotton1 is ano!r long /aple v>iety :i* is gr[n only 9 c]ta9 c\nties ( ,georgia1 ,s\? ,c>ol9a & ,florida4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,cotton ,plant ,sid5ote3 ,! ,fibre ,9 all ! cultivat$ species ! plant atta9s a height ( two to f\r feet4 ,! leaves v>y1 b all h *>act]i/ic lobes4 ,! blossoms also v>y a good deal 9 color1 b h ?is 9 common t ! se$s are conta9$ 9 a pod or boll :i* is fill$ ) a floss n unlike t ( ! common milk-we$4 ,9 due c\rse ! boll bur/s1 expos+ ! mass ( fluffy fibre f :i* ! plant d]ives its extraord9>y value4 ,! sup]iority ( cotton ov] o!r vegetable fibres1 su* z hemp or flax1 is 9 ! natural twi/1 :i* makes x inh]5tly adaptable to sp9n+4 ,! s+le fibre consi/s ( a holl[ tube hav+ transv]se jo9ts at irregul> int]vals1 & ?is tube1 :5 dry1 has a t5d5cy to flatt5 out & curl4 ,! m ( ?is natural ela/icity is f\nd 9 ! fibre ! bett] x is = sp9n+ purposes1 & an immature fibre is = ?is reason unsatisfactory4 ,cotton is exce$+ly susceptible to moi/ure1 & a succession ( viol5t atmosph]ic *anges w cause su* a rapid contraction & expansion 9 its fibre z to de/roy its ela/icity4 ,f ! po9t ( view ( ! manufactur] !re is v little diff]5ce betwe5 immature cotton & t :i* has suff]$ loss ( vitality4 ,sid5ote3 ,se$s & ,/ems ,besides yield+ a natural wool f :i* a trem5d\s numb] ( products are d]iv$1 ! se$ ( ! plant gives =? a highly useful vegetable oil1 & ! /ems & leaves are us$ = fodd]4 #b4 ,,hi/ory ,,& ,,di/ribution ,sid5ote3 ,anci5t ,hi/ory ,! orig9 ( ! cultivation & comm]cial use ( cotton is %r\d$ 9 ! dim veils ( antiquity4 ,! records ( ,india %[ t ! plant 0 gr[n1 & its fibre utiliz$1 f ! e>lie/ times4 ,! ,pho5icians & ! ,hebrews are kn[n to h made cotton clo?+1 & lat] ! art 0 transmitt$ by !m to ! ,greeks & ,romans4 ,! vague annals ( ,*9a indicate a famili>ity ) ?is plant & its value ext5d+ back to ! remote pa/1 & ! same is true ( ,japan4 ,cortez f\nd a fl\ri%+ textile indu/ry among ! ,aztecs 9 #aeai1 & 9 ,p]u1 ,piz>ro f\nd cotton g>m5ts said to ant$ate ! civilization ( ! ,incas4 ,aga9 e>ly ,portuguese *ronicl]s relate ! discov]y ( native cotton 9 ,brazil4 ,sid5ote3 ,europe ,sid5ote3 ,am]ica ,! ,arabs & ,s>ac5s 7 l>gely responsible = ! introduction ( ! textile indu/ries to we/]n ,europe 9 ! n9? c5tury1 b x 0 n until ab\t ! middle ( ! sev5te5? c5tury t any great progress 0 made4 ,dur+ ?is "t ! ,briti% began to attempt ! cultivation ( cotton 9 _! colonies1 & x 0 ab\t #afej :5 ! fir/ ,virg9ia plantations 7 begun4 ,s9ce t "t ! ,unit$ ,/ates has =g$ ahead until at pres5t x gr[s ov] ?ree-fif?s ( ! _w's crop4 ,sid5ote3 ,egypt ,! cultivation ( cotton 9 ,egypt 0 begun ab\t #ahba1 ,am]ican ,sea ,isl& se$s be+ import$ at t "t4 ,! f]tile alluvial soil ( ! ,nile delta 0 f\nd p>ticul>ly adapt$ to ?is use1 & ext5sive irrigation lat] exp&$ ! area4 ,! con/ruction ( ! ,great ,ass\an ,dam late 9 ! n9ete5? c5tury gave a trem5d\s impetus to ! indu/ry4 ,egyptian cotton is mo/ly ( ! long /aple v>iety1 ! be/1 kn[n z ,sakell>ides1 av]ag+ an in* & ?ree-qu>t]s4 ,sid5ote3 ,india ,cotton culture 9 ,india is p]haps ! olde/ ( all1 b ,indian cotton is ( ! %ort /aple v>iety1 & c only be us$ by c]ta9 manufactur]s mo/ ( :i* are locat$ 9 ,japan & ,g]many4 ,ab\t tw5ty-five million acres are said to be "u cultivation1 b /ati/ics are v meagre4 ,sid5ote3 ,*9a ,*9a has long be5 a l>ge gr[] ( cotton1 b ! native species are ( a h>%1 %ort fibre4 ,korea & ! ,yangtze & ,wei bas9s are ! *ief s\rces1 & ,am]ican cotton has rec5tly be5 introduc$ 9 ! s\!rn prov9ces4 ,sid5ote3 ,o!r ,c\ntries ,russia began to raise ,am]ican cotton on a l>ge scale 9 ,turke/an only "s tw5ty ye>s ago1 & bids fair to become a l>ge produc]4 ,! plant is indig5\s to almo/ all ! ,c5tral & ,s\? ,am]ican c\ntries1 & p>ticul>ly 9 ,mexico1 ,brazil & ,p]u1 x has great pot5tialities4 ,p]u has two k9ds ( native cotton kn[n z ! r\gh & smoo? v>ieties4 ,! =m] is ( a v long & t\gh fibre & is valuable because x c be bl5d$ ) wool4 ,sid5ote3 ,am]ican ,v>ieties ,! greate/ "p ( ! ,am]ican crop consi/s ( ! ,upl& v>iety1 al?\gh1 z we h not$1 !re is a small b important crop ( ,sea ,isl& 9 ! ,s\!rn ,atlantic /ates4 ,ano!r long /aple species1 kn[n z ,pimas1 has rec5tly be5 introduc$ 9 ,arizona1 & ! alluvial soil ( ,mississippi1 ,arkansas1 & ,l\isiana has produc$ /ill o!r desirable species1 locally kn[n z 8,riv]s10 8,peel]s10 & 8,b5d]s40 ,be=e we consid] ! relative manufactur+ m]its ( ! v>i\s k9ds ( cotton1 x w\ld p]haps be well to consid] briefly h[ ! crop is gr[n4 #c4 ,,cultivation ,sid5ote3 ,gr[? ( ! plant ,! cotton season ( c\rse v>ies 9 diff]5t latitudes1 b ! plant+ is done ev]y:]e 9 ! e>ly spr+ mon?s4 ,! prop] c>e & f]tilization ( ! soil & its prep>ation to receive ! se$ is ( ! utmo/ importance4 ,! plant rip5s 9 ab\t f\r mon?s1 s t ! pick+ season 9 ?is c\ntry usually beg9s 9 ,augu/1 & cont9ues until ! fir/ kill+ fro/4 ,f ! "t ( ! op5+ ( ! fir/ bolls ! cotton cont9ues to gr[1 unless kill$ by dr\ght or insects1 until ! cold puts a /op to vegetation1 & ! same /alk frequ5tly conta9s ripe & immature cotton at ! same "t4 ,! cotton :i* matures fir/ & has be5 lea/ expos$ to wea!r :5 pick$ is likely to be fre] ( spots & discolorations ?an t :i* is pick$ at ! end ( ! season4 ,sid5ote3 ,enemies ( ! plant ,sid5ote3 ,! ,boll ,weevil ,! two great enemies ( ! cotton plant are dr\ght & insect depr$ations4 ,late fro/s & ! "r quantity ( ra9 & sun%9e are :at e cotton plant] prays =1 & pray+ is ab\t all he c d 9 ?is respect4 ,n s1 h[ev]1 ) insects4 ,un=tunately !re are a great numb] ( rapaci\s little creatures r5d]$ p>ticul>ly h>dy by "s caprice ( ,nature1 to :om ! gr[+ cotton plant repres5ts an especial delicacy4 ,aga9/ !m ! plant]s1 "u ! guidance ( ! ,dep>tm5t ( ,agriculture1 are wag+ cont9u\s w>f>e4 ,x is said t insect depr$ation1 at pre-w> prices co/ ! c\ntry an annual sum ( #fj1jjj1jjj1 m ?an half ( :i* is attributable to ! two wor/ (f5d]s1 ! boll weevil & ! boll worm4 ,com+ 9 hordes across ! ,mexican bord]1 ! boll weevil has de/roy$ millions ( bales ( cotton annually1 & z yet no v effective rem$y has be5 f\nd to ext]m9ate x4 ,sid5ote3 ,wea!r ,defects ,ev5 at t1 h[ev]1 ! plant]'s greate/ worry is p]haps n s mu* ! gr[? z ! h>ve/+ ( 8 crop4 ,to get 8 cotton pick$ rapidly & prop]ly1 an op]ation = :i* no successful ma*9]y has yet be5 devis$1 & to h x prop]ly g9n$1 pres5ts 8 *ief problem4 ,if cotton is left too long on ! /em x w be expos$ to ! detrim5tal effects ( ! wea!r4 ,color+ matt] f ! newly op5$ bolls1 or f ! soil1 is wa%$ into ! floss by ! ra91 & :ile su* spots or /a9s may be blea*$ out by ! sun1 ! lu/r\s bloom nev] returns4 ,fro/ w make p]man5t t+es or /a9s1 & ! w9d w frequ5tly wrap ! p5dul\s locks ( fibre-cov]$ se$ ab\t ! /ems ( ! plant or tangle !m up 9 ! leaves4 ,sid5ote3 ,c>eless ,pick+ ,sid5ote3 ,bad ,g9n+ ,:5 ! pick]s d n ex]cise prop] c>e /em & leaves frequ5tly get pick$ along ) cotton1 & a consid]able quantity ( dirt inevitably f9ds its way into _! bags4 ,or else ! cotton may be pick$ :5 x is damp1 ) ! result t ! tee? ( ! g91 in/ead ( pick+ out ! se$s & /ems w cut ! matt$ fibres1 produc+ a class ( cotton kn[n z 8,g9-cut04 ,moreov] ! g9 bru%es w be unable to sep>ate ! matt$ tufts1 & s !y g into ! bale z 8naps0 or 8neps04 ,all ^! factors militate aga9/ ! plant] 9 8 ef=ts to h 8 crop classifi$ z high z possible4 #d4 ,,grades ,,& ,,/aples ,sid5ote3 ,grades ,bas$ on ,condition ,! classification ( cotton into ! /&>d grades fix$ by ! ,gov]nm5t con/itutes an exce$+ly difficult art4 ,!re is absolutely no me*anical basis1 & ! classification is a purely relative "o4 ,! k9d ( plant has no be>+ :atsoev]1 nor has ! l5g? or /r5g? ( /aple4 ,x is really a di/9ction bas$ ^u ! condition ( ! cotton1 r ?an ^u its inh]5t attributes4 ,! grade 8,,middl+0 is ! basis ^u :i* ! m>ket values ( ! o!r grades are quot$4 ,!re are eight full grades3 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,full ,grades ,fair ,middl+ ,fair ,good ,middl+ ,middl+ ,l[ ,middl+ ,good ,ord9>y ,ord9>y ,l[ ,ord9>y ,sid5ote3 ,t+es & ,/a9s ,sid5ote3 8,po9ts0 ,betwe5 ^! full grades are ! half grades1 kn[n z ! ,/ricts1 & "s class]s use qu>t] grades ) :i*1 h[ev]1 we %all n conc]n ourselves "h4 ,! grades & half-grades are quot$ = :ites1 t+es1 & /a9s4 ,a /a9 is a heavy discoloration :ile a t+e is a light] hue1 & p>tial discolorations1 kn[n z spots1 are p]missible 9 ! l[] grades ( :ites4 ,! values ( ! v>i\s grades are always quot$ z s _m po9ts on or (f ,:ite ,middl+1 a po9t be+ #a_/ajj?4 ( a c5t4 ,?us1 if ,middl+ ,:ite 7 quot$ at #bd;c & ,ord9>y z #cjj po9ts (f1 x w\ld mean t ,ord9>y 0 wor? #ba;c4 ,an example is giv5 bel[ ( a regul> quotation %eet4 ,u4 ,s4 ,,grades #a,,:ite #b,,t+es #b,,/a9s ,middl+ ,fair #djc on ,nom9al ,nom9al ,/rict ,good ,middl+ #cbh on #di (f a ,nom9al ,good ,middl+ #bec on #aeb (f a #ddg (f a ,/rict ,middl+ #ace on #cjj (f a #fah (f a ,middl+ ,basis #def (f a #hji (f a ,/4 ,l[ ,middl+ #cje (f #gjd (f a ,nom9al ,l[ ,middl+ #hdc (f #ajfd (f a ,nom9al ,/rict ,good ,ord9>y #abcj (f ,nom9al ,nom9al ,good ,ord9>y #aeah (f ,nom9al ,nom9al #a ,u4 ,s4 ,gov]nm5t diff]5ces4 #b ,av]age ( diff]5ces on ,new ,york1 ,new ,orleans1 ,memphis & ei!r ! ,savannah or ! ,augu/a ex*anges4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,human ,elem5t ,sid5ote3 ,proportion ( ,impurities ,x is obvi\s t 9 ?is classification ! human elem5t plays a great "p4 ,! diff]5ce betwe5 qu>t] grades1 or ev5 half grades1 or betwe5 a t+e & a /a91 are subject to a great v>iety ( int]pretations4 ,:ile !re is no def9ite /&>d1 ,middl+ mu/ be cream or :ite1 mu/ %[ no soil evid5ce1 no g9-cuts or naps1 may h a few pieces ( leaf 7n p[d]$71 & a few motes1 7immature se$s74 ,z ! grades g up ! cotton mu/ be fre] ( impurities until ! top grades h to %[ practically a p]fect lu/r\s1 silky1 :ite1 & cle> fibre4 ,on ! l[] side ! impurities increase1 until1 9 ! ,ord9>ies1 we f9d l>ge & small leaf p>ticles1 /icks1 hulls1 dirt1 s& naps1 g9-cuts1 & spots1 toge!r ) a d+y color4 ,sid5ote3 ,"s ,cottons n ,sold on ,middl+ ,basis ,x is ?is classification t gov]ns ! trad+ on all ! ex*anges1 & ^u :i* ! plant] orig9ally sells 8 crop4 ,! exceptions are ^? v>ieties ( cotton :i* are di/9ct f ! crop z a :ole4 ,sea ,isl&s are sold z ,fancy1 ,*oice1 ,f9e1 ,m$ium1 & ,common4 ,bolly or immature cotton is sold by sep>ate agreem5ts2 & ,l9t]s1 ! fibres rega9$ by ! se$ mills f reg9n+ ! se$1 are n sold on ?is basis4 ,nei!r is :at is kn[n z ! 8,city ,crop0 ( loose cotton accumulat$ f tak+ samples1 sold 9 ?is way4 ,sid5ote3 ,/aple ,l5g? ,aside f grade !re are two o!r qualifications :i* are ( equal importance to ! manufactur]3 l5g?1 & /r5g?4 ,l5g?s are quot$ 9 eights ( an in*1 & cotton "u #a0 is t]m$ %ort1 :ile t ov] #a0 is long4 ,! normal l5g?s run f 0 to #a01 & x is notewor?y t1 :]e a normal diff]5ce betwe5 grades w\ld be #be po9ts1 ! diff]5ce ( 0 w\ld be ab\t #bej po9ts4 8,pull+0 = /aple is ano!r art :]e ! individual's judgm5t plays an important "p4 ,sid5ote3 ,ela/icity ,/r5g?1--ela/icity & t5sile /r5g?1--is aga9 "o ( ! mill's pr]equisites4 ,! usual buy]'s te/ = fibre vitality is to compress a sample 9 ! h& to see if x w return to its =m] %ape4 ,! importance ( l5g? is t x gov]ns ! f95ess ( ! y>n to be spun1 :ile grades affect ! f9i% ( ! clo?4 ,we %all see lat] t mills _c buy mix$ lots1 b mu/ h ev5-runn+ grades ( fix$ /aple4 #e4 ,,buy]s ,,( ,,raw ,,cotton ,sid5ote3 ,/orekeep]s z ,local ,buy]s ,! small plant]s ( ! ,s\? are usually unable to f9ance !mselves indep5d5tly ?r\gh ! gr[+ & pick+ seasons4 ,consequ5tly ! local /ore-keep]1 f :om ! plant]s buy _! supplies1 usually ext5ds cr$it 9 ! =m ( an op5 acc\nt & s becomes ! fir/ middleman4 ,n infrequ5tly ! /ore-keep] w accept cotton r ?an money 9 settlem5t ( 8 acc\nts1 & :]e he foll[s ?is practice he becomes :at is kn[n z a local buy]4 ,:5 he has accumulat$ suffici5t cotton he sells ei!r to an int]m$iate buy]1 or to ! buy] = "s m]*ant or mill4 ,sid5ote3 ,l>ge ,gr[]s ,9 ! case ( ! l>g] gr[]1 or ! syndicate ( gr[]s1 ! local buy] is usually elim9at$4 ,^! plant]s obta9 _! cr$it f ! l>ge m]*ant buy]s1 :o 9 turn are c>ri$ by _! banks4 ,sid5ote3 ,int]m$iate ,buy]s ,v frequ5tly ! local buy]s are scatt]$ s ?ickly ?r\gh a neighborhood1 & ea* accumulate su* small & het]og5e\s lots ( cotton t an int]m$iate buy] f9ds 8 way into ! natural ord]4 ,sometimes ! int]m$iate is m]ely a 8scalp]0 :o buys f ! local deal] & sells to m]*ant buy]s4 ,9 o!r cases1 notably 9 ,texas1 he acts z a conc5trat+ ag5t1 buy+ at local po9ts f gr[]s & sell+1 usually at compress po9ts1 to repres5tatives ( m]*ants or mills4 ,9 ! latt] case he is ref]r$ to z a 8/reet buy]40 ,sid5ote3 ,f9anc+ ,e>ly ,/ages ,:]e ! gr[] surr5d]s 8 cotton to ! local deal] ! latt] usually has x g9n$1 b 9 cases :]e ! plant] is able to f9ance himself he takes 8 cotton to ! g9 himself1 pays = ! g9n+1 & ei!r sells 9 s-call$ g9 bales1 7be=e !y are compress$7 or1 if a w>eh\se is available at ! g9 or compress po9t1 holds 8 cotton until he c obta9 a satisfactory price = x4 ,! local banks p]=m a v important "p ( ! crop f9anc+ at ?is /age1 =1 s9ce ! gr[] sells = ca%1 ! buy]s require advances4 ,^! are made by ! ,s\!rn banks aga9/ buy]s' tickets1 %[+ cotton pur*as$1 aga9/ g9 receipts1 w>eh\se receipts1 compress receipts1 & f9ally :5 ! cotton is %ipp$1 aga9/ bills ( lad+4 ,illu/ration3 ,! ,squ>e ,bale ,sid5ote3 ,! ,m]*ant ,buy]'s ,importance ,sid5ote3 ,! ,take-up ,man ,! l>ge cotton m]*ants fulfill a v ess5tial function 9 t !y are responsible = ! conc5tration ( ! raw mat]ial & = its r$i/ribution into ! prop] *annels ( manufacture4 ,!y ma9ta9 bran*es & repres5tatives ?r\gh\t ! entire cotton gr[+ areas & are directly connect$ by wire ) all ! important ex*anges4 ,by f> ! bulk ( _! buy+ is done aft] ! close ( ! ,new ,york ,ex*ange f local & int]m$iate buy]s :o dur+ ! day h be5 acquir+ mix$ lots ( all sorts4 ,! m]*ant's repres5tative1 kn[n z ! take-up man1 goes ov] & classifies ! cotton accumulat$ by ! local buy]s1 takes a sample f ea* bale :i* he tags ) a duplicate ( ! %ipp+ tag he places on ! bale itself1 & !n %ips ! cotton to ! conc5tration po9t & ! samples to ! (fice at t place4 ,he pays ! local buy] by draft or *eck4 ,sid5ote3 ,ev5-runn+ ,lots f ,compress ,po9t ,! (fice at ! conc5tration po9t1 usually :]e !re is a compress1 has 9 ! meantime receiv$ in/ructions f ! head (fice z to h[ to make up ! v>i\s lots4 ,z ! bales are compress$ !y are collect$ into ev5-runn+ lots ( c]ta9 grades = :i* ! head (fice has receiv$ inquiries f mills1 & are %ipp$ out 9 ?is way4 ,! bran* (fice w %ip accord+ to in/ructions =w>d+ ! bills ( lad+ ) invoices & sight drafts to ! head (fice or to "s bank4 ,sid5ote3 ,coop]ative ,m>ket+ ,s9ce ! w>1 & p>ticul>ly 9 ! la/ ?ree ye>s1 ! co-op]ative movem5t has 9 "s sections develop$ to su* an ext5t z to supplant 9 l>ge "p ! old sy/em ( m>ket+4 ,9 ,texas1 ,georgia1 & o!r ,/ates1 a l>ge "p ( ! crop is n[ conc5trat$1 f9anc$1 & sold ?r\gh ^! ext5sive organizations ( gr[]s ei!r direct to mills1 or to l>ge m]*ants & export]s4 ,almo/ all cotton is b\ght on ,middl+ ,basis1 b "s is tak5 on sample ) gu>antees1 7(t5 a dang]\s practice = bo? p>ties71 & "s is tak5 at a fix$ price p] bale4 ,sid5ote3 ,direct ,buy+ ,a few ,s\!rn mills buy direct f ne>by gr[]s1 b ! prepond]ant majority & practically all ! ,nor!rn mills obta9 _! cotton ?r\gh m]*ants1 or ?r\gh brok]s repres5t+ ,s\!rn m]*ants4 ,we h se5 briefly h[ ! cotton is gr[n & br\ght to m>ket1 b we h /ill to consid] ! all important "q ( :at det]m9es ! price at :i* x *anges h&s4 #f4 ,,! ,,cotton ,,ex*anges ,sid5ote3 8,spot0 & 8,futures0 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,great ,m>kets ,cotton trad+ falls r\ghly into two categories3 trad+ 9 cotton = imm$iate deliv]y1 or spot cotton2 & buy+ or sell+ = deliv]y at "s future "t4 ,pur*ases or sales ( spot cotton mean t cotton actually w be deliv]$ f v5dor to pur*as]1 b1 z we %all see1 trad+ 9 futures does n necess>ily mean t ! contract w be fulfill$ by deliv]y4 ,! great cotton m>kets are ,new ,york1 ,liv]pool1 ,new ,orleans1 ,brem51 & ,havre4 ,( ^! ,new ,york is almo/ entirely a futures m>ket1 :ile ,new ,orleans is *iefly a spot m>ket4 ,liv]pool1 ,brem51 & ,havre trade 9 bo? spot & futures1 b ,liv]pool is ! ,european c5tre = trad+ 9 future contracts4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,new ,york ,cotton ,ex*ange ,only ab\t #b ( ! annual crop is sold spot 9 ,new ,york1 & yet x is ! prices on ! ,new ,york ,cotton ,ex*ange :i* gov]n v l>gely ! price paid to ! gr[] 9 ! ,s\? by ! v>i\s buy]s4 ,! ,new ,york ,ex*ange is ! b>omet] ( ! ,am]ican1 & to a l>ge ext5t1 ( ! _w's cotton trade1 because its me*anism works out ! equilibrium betwe5 dem& & supply2 & z ?is me*anism consi/s *iefly ( ! trad+ device call$ ! 8,h$ge01 we %all digress = a mom5t to consid] its op]ation4 ,sid5ote3 ,! 8,h$ge0 ,we might say t h$g+ is an insurance aga9/ fluctuations 9 cotton prices by pur*ase or sale ( future contracts = cotton aga9/ sale or pur*ase made = actual deliv]y4 ,x consi/s ( no?+ m ?an ( neutraliz+ ! ga9 or loss :i* w result f exi/+ deliv]y contracts if ! price rises or falls be=e deliv]y date1 by creat+ an (f-sett+ loss or ga94 ,sid5ote3 ,z ,us$ by ! ,m]*ant ,assume1 = in/ance1 t a m]*ant makes a contract ) a mill 9 ,july = #ajj bales ,octob] deliv]y4 ,he sells at ! curr5t price ( let u say #cj c5ts p] p\nd plus 8 ov]head & pr(it4 ,9 due c\rse he w obta9 8 cotton f ! ,s\?1 b 9 ! meantime he cov]s1 or h$ges 8 contract by buy+ #ajj bales ( ,octob] futures on ! ,ex*ange4 ,if he has to pay ! gr[] #ca c5ts = ! cotton :i* he has sold to ! mill = #cj c5ts1 he w on ! o!r h&1 be able to sell 8 future contract :i* he b\ght at #cj c5ts = #ca c5ts1 s t ! loss on "o is neutraliz$ by ! ga9 on ! o!r4 ,vice v]sa1 he w lose :atev] extra pr(it he might h made f a fall+ price4 ,sid5ote3 ,by ! ,manufactur] ,9 ! same way a manufactur] may buy futures aga9/ ord]s he has accept$ = goods1 bas$ on ! price he expects to pay = 8 cotton4 ,or he may sell futures to protect himself on cotton he has b\ght b has n yet cov]$ by clo? contracts4 ,h$g+ by manufactur]s1 h[ev]1 p>ticul>ly 9 ! ,nor?1 is n a common practice1 because ! clo? m>ket is n ela/ic en\gh to foll[ accurately 9 ! wake ( cotton prices1 & also because ! mill treasur] r>ely wants to h$ge cotton 9 8 w>eh\se1 pref]r+ to rely on 8 own judgm5t 9 matt]s ( pur*ase4 ,sid5ote3 ,by ! ,gr[] ,occasionally a gr[] may f9d x to 8 advantage to h$ge 8 crop4 ,if1 = example1 he is satisfi$ 9 ,augu/ t ! pres5t price = ,decemb] is likely to be high] ?an he w obta9 lat]1 he may sell ,decemb] futures = a cons]vative p]c5tage ( 8 crop1 !reby gu>antee+ himself aga9/ a drop4 ,sid5ote3 ,speculation ,by f> ! greate/ "p ( ! future trad+1 h[ev]1 is done by m]*ants1 because !y are actually engag$ 9 ! bus9ess ( sell+ cotton :i* !y h n yet acquir$ or ( c>ry+ cotton = :i* !y h no contracts4 ,speculation1 ( c\rse1 ent]s into ! deal+s on ! ex*anges z an important economic factor1 9 normal times t5d+ to /abilize by disc\nt+ future tr5ds1 b 9 p]iods ( extraord9>y dem& or supply frequ5tly caus+ viol5t fluctuations 9 prices4 ,at su* times !re is always a good deal ( agitation = prev5tive legislation1 b x is unlikely t deal+ 9 futures w ev] be prohibit$ by law4 ,! pres5t regulations ( ! l>ge ex*anges elim9ate abuse z f> z possible1 & ! futures m>kets are really a factor ( safety = ! entire indu/ry4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,dissem9ation ( ,quotations ,all ! l>ge m]*ants1 z we h se51 h bran* (fices 9 ! ,s\?1 & all ^! (fices h wire connections ) ! *ief m>kets4 ,on ! basis ( ! ,liv]pool quotations & ! ,new ,york op5+ prices ! head (fices w s5d out to _! bran*es & repres5tatives _! daily limits1 above :i* !y are in/ruct$ n to buy4 ,inasmu* z mo/ ( ! small gr[]s are dep5d5t = _! news ( ! m>kets ^u ! buy]s1 !y are at some:at ( a disadvantage1 b ! ke5ness ( competition prev5ts _! exploitation by unscrupul\s buy]s4 ,sid5ote3 ,new ,york ,cotton ,contract ,a contract on ! ,new ,york ,cotton ,ex*ange call+ = ! deliv]y ( #ajj bales specifies ,middl+ grade1 b ! sell] may deliv] any grades :i* are t5d]able by ! ,ex*ange regulations4 ,^! grades are f ,/rict ,l[ ,middl+ to ,middl+ ,fair1 b if t+$1 n bel[ ,middl+ ,t+$4 ,/a9s are n t5d]able4 ,! grades are det]m9$ & settlem5t made on ! basis ( s _m po9ts on or (f ,middl+1 :i*1 z we h se51 is ! basis = all quotations4 ,sid5ote3 ,buy+ ,season ,x is evid5t t mills1 :i* require c]ta9 ev5-runn+ grades1 c\ld ( c\rse nev] buy _! cotton on ! ,middl+ basis4 ,= ?is reason1 except 9 ! few cases :]e !y buy direct f ! gr[]s1 mills pur*ase _! requirem5ts f deal]s on ! basis ( samples4 ,sell+ to mills1 z oppos$ to sell+ ,m_/,b1 is kn[n z sell+ on m]it4 ,mills usually beg9 to buy 9 ,septemb] & fill ab\t #fj ( _! ye>'s requirem5ts by ,janu>y4 ,^? manufactur]s :o use ! high grades usually buy e>lie/ because ( ! limit$ crop f :i* !y mu/ obta9 _! %>e4 ,cotton is ord9>ily %ipp$ soon aft] pur*ase & /or$ n by ! m]*ant b at ! mill4 ,! rec5t gr[? ( ,s\!rn w>eh\se companies1 h[ev]1 has caus$ mills to c>ry less cotton ?an =m]ly4 ,mills ord9>ily pay = _! cotton 9 ?ree days4 ,we h n[ trac$ rapidly h[ ! cotton is gr[n & m>ket$1 & our next conc]n w be to foll[ :at happ5s to x dur+ ! process ( mak+ x into goods4 ,def]r+ = ! mom5t consid]ation ( cotton export f ! ,unit$ ,/ates1 we %all proce$ 9 ,*apt] ,two1 to glance at ! v>i\s aspects ( ,cotton ,manufacture4 ,,*apt] ,,ii ,,! ,,manufacture ,,( ,,cotton #a4 ,,hi/ory ,,9 ,,! ,u4 ,s4 ,mu* has be5 writt5 on ! subject ( ! textile indu/ry & p]haps ev5 m /ill rema9s to be said4 ,x is n ! object ( ?is brief survey to pres5t a complete picture ( all ! /ages ( manufacture1 b r to place briefly be=e ! read] a necess>ily kaleidoscopic view ( ! v>i\s processes4 ,sid5ote3 ,slat]'s ,mills ,sid5ote3 ,:itney's ,g9 ,sid5ote3 ,/imulus ( ,w> ( #ahab ,al?\gh ! fir/ cotton mill 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates 0 f\nd$ 9 ,rhode ,isl& by ,samuel ,slat] 9 #agij1 ,:itney's inv5tion ( ! cotton g9 9 #agic m>k$ ! real beg9n+ ( ! cotton gr[+ & manufactur+ indu/ries 9 ?is c\ntry1 because x solv$ ! hi!rto vexati\s problem ( sep>at+ ! fibre f ! se$4 ,nev]!less1 until ! w> ( #ahab1 ?is c\ntry export$ almo/ all ( its cotton to ,great ,brita91 & import$ f !re its cotton goods4 ,! w> /imulat$ ! textile indu/ry = two reasons3 fir/1 because no ,briti% goods 7 available2 & second1 because x br\ght ab\t ! transf]5ce ( ,new ,engl& capital f %ips & comm]ce to home manufactur+ indu/ries4 ,! c5sus figures = #ahje %[ #d1ejj sp9dles 9 ! c\ntry2 9 #ahbe !re 7 #hjj1jjj4 ,sid5ote3 ,gr[? to #ahfj ,v>i\s inv5tions1 notably ,l[ell's p[] loom 9 #ahad1 & ,j5ck's r+ sp9dle 9 #ahcj1 made x possible = ! ,new ,engl& manufactur] to compete ) ! skill$ labor ( ,engl&1 & up to ! "t ( ! ,civil ,w> ! indu/ry made rapid /rides4 ,9 #ahca #gie e/abli%m5ts ) #a1bjj1jjj sp9dles us$ #gg1hjj1jjj p\nds ( cotton & manufactur$ #cb1jjj1jjj wor? ( goods4 ,?irty ye>s lat] !re 7 #ajia mills ) #e1bjj1jjj sp9dles us+ #dbb1gjj1jjj p\nds ( cotton & mak+ a product wor? #aae1gjj1jjj4 ,at ?is "t #egj ( ! mills 7 9 ,new ,engl&1 #cdj 9 ! ,middle ,atlantic ,/ates1 #aei 9 ! ,s\?1 & #bb 9 ! ,we/]n ,/ates4 ,! ,new ,engl& mills1 h[ev]1 av]ag$ twice z _m sp9dles z ! o!rs1 & ,massa*usetts & ,rhode ,isl& alone conta9$ #dh ( ! total4 ,sid5ote3 ,civil ,w> ,home indu/ries at ?is "t suppli$ mo/ ( ! co>se drills & %eet+s1 :ile ! f9e goods 7 import$ f ,engl&4 ,!re 0 a small export trade ( co>se goods to ,asia4 ,! ,civil ,w> cut (f ! indu/rial c5t]s f _! raw mat]ial s t = five ye>s no progress 0 made1 & :5 normal life 0 resum$ a new t5d5cy t[>ds conc5tration became manife/4 ,f !n on ! numb] ( plants decreas$ & ! individual e/abli%m5t grew l>g]1 s t 9 #ahhj !re 7 few] mills & f\r & "o-half times z _m sp9dles z tw5ty ye>s be=e4 ,sid5ote3 ,rapid ,indu/rial ,rise ( ! ,s\? ,:ile we %all discuss ! geographical di/ribution ( ! indu/ry 9 a lat] *apt]1 x is wor?y ( note "h t ! feature ( ! p]iod beg9n+ ab\t #ahhj & ext5d+ to ! pres5t "t1 0 ! gradual gr[? ( ! sp9n+ & weav+ indu/ry 9 ! ,s\?4 ,! social & economic sy/em 9 ! ,s\!rn /ates be=e ! abolition ( slav]y made ^? /ates entirely agr>ian1 b z soon z a recov]y f ! w> 0 accompli%$1 manufactur+1 & p>ticul>ly cotton manufactur+1 grew up surpris+ly fa/4 ,a glance at ! gr[? 9 sp9dlage 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates f #ahhj to #aibc w suffice to illu/rate4 ,sixty p] c5t4 ( ! increase s9ce #ahhj 0 9 ! ,s\?4 ,! units repres5t millions ( sp9dles4 #ahhj #ahij #aijj #aiaj #aibc ,inc4 #dc yrs4 ,nor? #aj4a #ab4f #ad4e #ag4d #ai4i #i4h ,s\? 4#e #a4g #d4e #aa4b #af4c #ae4h #b4 ,,mak+ ,,cotton ,,y>n ,sid5ote3 ,! ,bale ,almo/ all cotton comes to ! mill 9 /&>d compress bales ( five hundr$ p\nds gross4 ,! cotton is cond5s$ to ab\t #bb p\nds p] cubic foot at ! compress1 wrapp$ 9 co>se jute bagg+1 & circl$ ) iron hoops4 ,= "s "t !re has be5 a movem5t to improve ! s-call$ squ>e bale1 or to replace x ) a diff]5t =m ( pack+4 ,sea ,isl& cotton is frequ5tly pack$ 9 a small] r\nd bale1 & !re is mu* to be said = ?is practice4 ,:at we are conc]n$ ) "h1 h[ev]1 is t ! mill receives ! cotton 9 a compress$ =m :i* mu/ be loos5$ be=e any?+ c be done ) x4 ,sid5ote3 ,,! ,,bale-,,break] ,accord+ly1 ! fir/ ?+ t happ5s is t ! hoops are cut1 ! bagg+ remov$1 & ! cotton ?r[n by h& into ! fe$-apron ( ! bale-break]4 ,?is ma*9e does no?+ m ?an to pick ! compress$ cotton ap>t & deliv] x 9 tufts ab\t ! size ( a h&full on a belt conveyor4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,op5] ,! travell+ belt or fe$] deliv]s ^! bun*es ( cotton into ma*9es call$ ,op5]s1 :i* simply repeat ! op]ation ( ! bale-break] on a m ?or\gh scale1 r$uc+ ! l>ge tufts into _m small] ones4 ,^! small pieces are dropp$ into an air *ute & drawn along p>allel rods up to ! pick] room4 ,dur+ transit 9 ! trunk mu* ( ! heavi] dirt falls betwe5 ! rods & is remov$4 ,9 ! mo/ rec5t in/allations l>g] bale-break]s are us$ :i* r$uce ! cotton to small tufts & deliv] ?r\gh an air pipe to a cond5s] 9 ! pick]-room4 ,! cond5s] ei!r empties into b9s or else on to ! automatic fe$ ( ! break]-pick]s4 ,illu/ration3 ,bale ,break]s ,sid5ote3 ,pick]s ,remove ,co>se ,dirt ,z ! tufts come out ( ! *ute !y fall into ! fir/ ( ?ree ma*9es kn[n z ,pick]s1 ^: function is to beat out ! co>s] impurities & deliv] ! cotton 9 rolls ( batt+ call$ laps4 ,9 ! fir/1 or break]-pick] ! tufts are ?or\ghly :irl$ & p\nd$ ov] grid-b>s by roll]s arm$ ) %ort flail-l projections1 & !n compress$ into a cont9u\s %eet or lap ( a giv5 weight p] y>d1 :i* is w\nd on a l>ge spool & deliv]$ to ! second1 or int]m$iate pick]4 ,?is ma*9e practically repeats ! op]ation only t x comb9es f\r laps f ! fir/ pick] into "o :i* x h&s ov] to ! la/1 or f9i%] pick]4 ,! latt] aga9 takes f\r int]m$iate laps & =ms !m into "o %eet ( fairly clean cotton1 conta9+ v little dirt or se$1 b /ill fairly fill$ ) small p>ticles ( leaf4 ,9 ^! prelim9>y op]ations ! cotton has lo/ ab\t five p] c5t4 ( its weight4 ,illu/ration3 ,pick] ,room ,sid5ote3 ,! ,function ( ! ,c>d ,be=e any?+ else c be done x is n[ necess>y to remove ! leaf p>ticles1 & to sep>ate ! individual fibres f _! matt$ position4 ,bo? ^! functions are p]=m$ by ! ma*9e kn[n z ! ,c>d1 ! pr9ciple ( :i* is t ( two surfaces arm$ ) f9e wire tee? revolv+ n q tang5t to ea* o!r4 ,orig9ally c>d+ 0 p]=m$ by h&1 b ! ,wellman c>d+ ma*9e 0 "o ( ! e>lie/ textile inv5tions4 ,?is 0 consid]ably improv$ by ! revolv+ flat c>d 9 #aheg1 ! op]ation ( :i* is some:at z foll[s4 ,illu/ration3 ,,pr9ciple ,,( ,,! ,,flat ,,c>d ,sid5ote3 ,its ,op]ation ,! lap f ! f9i%] pick] is f$ ov] a plate on to a revolv+ cyl9d] be>+ wire tee?1 :i* combs x ov] a set ( knives1 !reby remov+ co>se dirt1 & passes x on to a l>ge cyl9d] arm$ ) millions ( f9e wire tee?4 ,! latt] c>ries ! cotton pa/ a sl[ly revolv+ endless *a9 ( flats :i* remove ! neps & f9e dirt4 ,! clean1 sep>at$ fibres are !n pick$ (f ! cyl9d] by a small] rapidly revolv+ roll] call$ ! d(f]1 :i* c>ries !m 9 a filmy %eet to be 9 turn remov$ by ! d(f+ comb4 ,! latt]1 work+ s rapidly t ! eye fails to see x1 lifts ! %eet ( fibres cle> s t x may be pass$ ?r\gh a funnel & cond5s$ into a s+le untwi/$ rope a little "u an in* 9 diamet]4 ,?is rope is call$ a sliv]1 & is automatically coil$ into a c l an umbrella-/&4 ,sid5ote3 ,c\nts ( ,y>n ,sid5ote3 ,two ,processes ,illu/ration3 ,fe$ ,end ( ,c>d4 ,lap ,ent]+ ,illu/ration3 ,deliv]y ( ,sliv] ,we h n[ = ! fir/ "t r$uc$ ! raw mat]ial to a cont9u\s /r&1 comp>atively free f impurities4 ,up to ?is po9t1 no matt] :at k9d ( y>n is to be spun1 ! op]ations are practically id5tical1 b f "h on ! processes v>y accord+ to ! product desir$4 ,a hank ( y>n is #hdj y>ds 7n to be confus$ ) ! wor/$ hank ( #efj y>ds7 & ! numb] ( hanks x takes to make a p\nd is ! basis ^u :i* y>n is classifi$4 ,?us a co>se y>n :i* weighs only tw5ty hanks to ! p\nd1 w\ld be call$ #bjs1 :ile #hjs w\ld be a v f9e y>n4 ,v>i\s fabrics require diff]5t grades ( y>n1 j z diff]5t f95esses ( y>n mu/ be spun f v>y+ grades ( cotton4 ,! processes prep>atory to sp9n+ v>y1 n only ) ! c\nts to be spun1 b ) ! use to :i* ! y>n is to be put4 ,ord9>y co>se & m$ium y>ns = weav+ usually foll[ "o process1 :ile f9e c\nts = weav+1 or knitt+ y>n1 or co>se y>n made f long-/aple cotton su* z t us$ = tire-duck1 g ?r\gh a diff]5t prep>ation4 ,! =m] are simply drawn & r$uc$1 :ile ! latt] are 9 addition comb$4 ,illu/ration3 ,draw+ ,sid5ote3 ,fir/ ,process ,sid5ote3 ,draw+ ,9 ! ord9>y process1 :i* is by f> ! mo/ commonly us$1 ! sliv] f ! c>d is put ?r\gh successive simil> op]ations1 kn[n z draw+1 ! object ( :i* is to draw out ! fibres & cause !m to lie p>allel to ea* o!r4 ,six c>d sliv]s are f$ toge!r betwe5 two pairs ( roll]s1 ! second ( :i* is revolv+ fa/] ?an ! fir/4 ,! obvi\s result ( ?is is ! /ret*+ ( t portion ( ! sliv]s :i* is betwe5 ! two sets ( roll]s4 ,! op]ation is usually p]=m$ two or ?ree times1 9 ea* case comb9+ six /r&s into "o4 ,! sliv] deliv]$ by ! ?ird draw+ ma*9e w be ( ! same diamet] z ! orig9al c>d sliv]1 b w conta9 m or less p>allel fibres4 ,illu/ration3 ,rov+ ,frame ,sid5ote3 ,rov+ ,op]ations ,sid5ote3 ,slubb] ,!re rema9s n[ only "o s]ies ( op]ations be=e ! y>n is ready to be spun4 ,! sliv] mu/ be r$uc$ 9 size & giv5 a c]ta9 am\nt ( twi/2 ^! objects are accompli%$ by ! rov+ frames1 ( :i* !re are ei!r ?ree or f\r4 ,! fir/1 or slubb]1 passes ! drawn sliv] ?r\gh roll]s )\t comb9+1 & w9ds x up on bobb9s set 9 sp9dles4 ,! sliv] is twi/$ by be+ f$ onto ! bobb9 by an arm1 or fly]1 :i* revolves a little m sl[ly ?an ! sp9dle1 be+ drawn ar\nd aft] x4 ,! result is a slightly twi/$ sliv]1 n[ call$ a rov+1 ab\t ! diamet] ( a clo!s-l9e4 ,illu/ration3 ,f\r ,/ages ( ,rov+ ,! int]m$iate1 f9e frame1 & jack frame1--or1 if !re are only ?ree rov+ boxes1 ! int]m$iate & f9e frames1--comb9e two rov+s into "o ( small] size & m twi/4 ,! me*anism is mu* ! same1 except t 9 ea* successive frame ! sp9dles are small] & revolve fa/]1 until f9ally ! ?read is small en\gh to sp94 ,sid5ote3 ,second ,process ,sid5ote3 ,lapp] ,:]e x is desir$ to sp9 special k9ds or v f9e y>ns tw5ty c>d sliv]s are usually comb9$ 9 a ma*9e simil> to a draw+ frame & kn[n z a sliv]-lapp]4 ,! tw5ty ends are drawn betwe5 roll]s & deliv]$ n z we %\ld expect 9 "o /r&1 b 9 a n>r[ b& or lap1 :i* is w\nd on spools4 ,f\r ( ^! laps are aga9 comb9$ & drawn ov] a spiral surface 9 ! ribbon lapp] :i* deliv]s its product to ! comb4 ,! cotton is n[ 9 a b& less ?an a foot wide1 ) fibres m or less p>allel & practically clean4 ,s9ce x is desir$ to sp9 a y>n :i* dem&s n only p>allel b uni=m fibres1 ! %ort fibres mu/ be elim9at$4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,comb ,!re are a consid]able numb] ( comb+ ma*9es 9 use at ! pres5t "t1 b _! diff]5ces are me*anical r ?an 9 ! function !y p]=m4 ,! ,heilmann pr9ciple is ! mo/ commonly us$ 9 ?is c\ntry4 ,eight rolls f ! ribbon-lapp] are plac$ 9 sep>ate re/s1 or heads1 end to end1 & ea* lap is f$ ?r\gh roll]s betwe5 tee? ( a v f9e & rapidly oscillat+ /eel comb4 ,e back & =? motion1 kn[n z a nip1 deliv]s ab\t half an in* ( filmy %eet f :i* ! %ort fibres h be5 comb$ out4 ,! eight comb$ %eets are !n once m cond5s$ into a s+le sliv] & coil$ into a cyl9drical c4 ,sid5ote3 ,draw+ ,sid5ote3 ,d\bl+s ,foll[+ ! comb !re are usually two draw+ frames1 ea* comb9+ six sliv]s into "o1 & ^! are foll[$ by ! ?ree or f\r rov+ frames z 9 ! o!r process4 ,9 ! ord9>y process ! la/ rov+ z x leaves ! jack frame has be5 d\bl$ #bg1fdh times2 9 ! comb$ y>n !re are #b1iei1abj d\bl+s be=e sp9n+ beg9s4 ,sp9n+ prop] is done ei!r on ! mule or ! r+ sp9dle4 ,v little cotton is spun on mules 9 ?is c\ntry1 al?\gh mules are ext5sively us$ 9 ,europe4 ,we %all conc]n ourselves "h only ) ! r+ sp9dle1 & t 9 b>e outl9e4 7,see also ,"p ,two1 ,page #hc74 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,r+ ,frame ,! pr9ciple ( ! r+ frame is v simil> to t ( ! rov+ op]ations :i* imm$iately prec$e x4 ,! ?read is aga9 drawn ?r\gh two or ?ree sets ( roll]s runn+ at successively high] rates ( spe$1 & !n passes z %[n on ! accompany+ sket* ?r\gh a guide to a small metal loop1 call$ ! travell]1 :i* runs ar\nd on a metal track or r+ )9 :i* ! sp9dle ) its bobb9 is revolv+4 ,s9ce ! sp9dle pulls ! travell] ar\nd aft] x1 ! y>n is twi/$ or spun z x is w\nd on ! bobb94 ,sometimes two spools ( rov+ are spun into a s+le ?read1 b m frequ5tly !re is no comb9ation4 ,all ! r+s on "o frame1 usually ab\t #bef1 are mov$ up & d[n toge!r on _! sp9dles1 s t y>n w be w\nd ev5ly on ! bobb94 ,illu/ration3 ,r+ ,twi/] ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,r+ ,,frame ,,pr9ciple ,illu/ration3 ,y>n ( ,fill+ ,bobb91 ,w>p ,bobb91 & ,spool ,sid5ote3 ,w>p & ,fill+ ,bobb9s ,n only is a diff]5t bobb9 us$ = sp9n+ w>p & fill+ y>ns1 b !y are also w\nd diff]5tly on ! bobb94 ,w>p y>n is w\nd ev5ly up & d[n ! :ole l5g? ( ! bobb91 :ile ! fill+ bobb9s1 :i* g /raight f ! sp9dle into ! %uttle ( ! loom1 are w\nd on 9 sections to facilitate rapid unw9d+4 ,sid5ote3 ,twi/+ ,we h n[ proce$$ z f> z ! f9i%$ y>n4 ,sometimes1 h[ev]1 :5 a p>ticul>ly /rong ?read is desir$1 or 9 case ( fancy designs1 x is desirable to twi/ two or m ?reads ( y>n toge!r1 ?is be+ kn[n z two-ply1 ?ree-ply1 etc4 ,v>i\s effects are obta9$ by twi/+ diff]5t y>ns toge!r1 & sometimes wor/$ & cotton /r&s are twi/$ toge!r4 ,! op]ation is done on a frame simil> to ! sp9n+ frame4 ,illu/ration3 ,! ,b>b] ,knott] ,sid5ote3 ,! ,b>b] ,knott] ,9 ^! & subsequ5t op]ations ! ,b>b] ,knott]1 a little device worn on ! h& ( ! op]ative1 has enorm\sly increas$ effici5cy4 ,by a s+le motion an entirely unskill$ girl c knot & cut (f ev5ly ! ends ( two ?reads4 #c4 ,,weav+ ,,gray ,,goods ,sid5ote3 ,pr9ciple ( ,weav+ ,! mod]n p[] loom repres5ts "o ( ! mo/ rem>kable a*ievem5ts ( indu/rial developm5t4 ,into its p]fection h gone ! inv5tions & improvem5ts ( c5turies1 & volumes c\ld1 & h be5 writt5 on ! subject ( mod]n weav+4 ,nev]!less1 ! old-fa%ion$ h&-loom has n yet gone out ( exi/5ce1 & /ill f9ds its use 9 ! developm5t ( new designs4 ,illu/ration3 ,spool+ ,weav+ is1 ( c\rse1 ! process :]eby y>n is made into clo?1 & its fundam5tal pr9ciple is t ( ! w>p & weft /ructure4 ,9 its simple/ =m ?is means t a s]ies ( ?reads are /ret*$ p>allel to ea* o!r1 !reby =m+ a w>p4 ,a second ?read1 call$ ! weft1 is !n pass$ ov] ! odd & "u ! ev5 w>p ?reads1 & back aga9 "u ! odd & ov] ! ev54 ,9 ?is way a clo? fabric w gradually be built up4 ,9 mo/ cases ! process has become consid]ably m complicat$ ?an ?is1 b !re are ev5 n[ c]ta9 mat]ials1 su* z calico1 :i* reta9 ! elem5t>y weave4 ,! actual weav+1 t is1 ! pass+ ( ! %uttle c>ry+ ! weft ?read ov] & "u ! w>p ?reads1 has n[ be5 r$uc$ to an entirely automatic process1 ev5 ) ! mo/ complicat$ designs1 b ! prep>atory "w /ill entails a l>ge proportion ( h& labor4 ,illu/ration3 ,! ,creels ,sid5ote3 ,spool+ ,! fir/ op]ation consi/s ( w9d+ ! y>n f ! bobb9 on to spools1 ea* conta9+ ! same l5g? ( y>n4 ,?is mu/ be done ) c>e or consid]able wa/e w result4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,creel ,! next /ep is to place ^! spools 9 a rack or creel :]e !y fit on glass be>+s s t !y may be arrang$ 9 ! prop] ord] & run ?r\gh ! w>p] on to ! section beam4 ,! latt] is a l>ge roll] sev]al ( :i* are comb9$ to =m a beam4 ,! beam is ! "n giv5 to ! roll] :i* is plac$ 9 ! loom to deliv] ! w>p ?reads4 ,sid5ote3 ,siz+ ,9 ord] bo? to /r5g!n ! w>p ?reads & to make !m smoo!r = weav+ x is usual to apply "s />*y or glut9\s sub/ance to !m4 ,?is op]ation1 :i* is p]=m$ 9 a ma*9e call$ ! ,sla%]1 is t]m$ y>n siz+1 & consi/s ( runn+ ! ?reads ?r\gh a ba? ( prep>ation & !n dry+ !m quickly on a l>ge /eam-fill$ drum or c4 ,"o sla%] w d en\gh "w = #bjj to #ejj looms4 ,illu/ration3 ,! ,sla%] ,sid5ote3 ,heald+ ,s9ce x is necess>y t ! w>p ?reads may be l[]$ or rais$ 9 v>i\s comb9ations to all[ ! passage ( ! %uttle1 ea* w>p ?read mu/ be pass$ ?r\gh an eye 9 ! c5tre ( a h>ness wire4 ,:]e1 = in/ance1 ! w>p is to be rais$ & depress$ 9 ?ree ev5 sections !re w be ?ree h>ness frames1 ea* fitt$ ) en\gh heald-wires to accommodate "o-?ird ( ! numb] ( ?reads 9 ! entire w>p4 ,9 ! ,jacqu>d loom1 us$ = intricate patt]ns1 ea* w>p-?read is sep>ately controll$4 ,! pass+ ( ! ends ( ! w>p ?r\gh _! prop] h>ness wires is a delicate & skilfull op]ation kn[n z heald+1 or draw+-94 ,at ! same "t t ?is is done ! ?reads are pass$ ?r\gh individual /op-motion wires1 relax$ t5sion on any "o ( :i* w br+ ! loom to a /op4 ,illu/ration3 ,draw+ ,9 ,sid5ote3 ,re$+ ,closely connect$ ) draw+-91 is ! f9al /ep 9 ! prep>ation ( ! w>p1 & ?is is call$ re$+ or sley+4 ,9 ord] to keep ! w>p ?reads 9 prop] position dur+ weav+ !y are pass$ ?r\gh ! wires ( :at looks l a comb ) a /rip across ! op5 ends4 ,?is1 ! sley or re$1 is atta*$ to ! batt5 on ! loom & s]ves 9 addition to drive home ea* weft ?read aft] ! %uttle has pass$4 ,sid5ote3 ,w>p ,tie+ ,:5 ! loom has dev\r$ all ! w>p ?reads conta9$ on "o beam1 all t is necess>y1 if ! patt]n is to be cont9u$1 is to tie ! ends ( ! old w>p to ! ends ( ! new1 & ?is is accompli%$ ) m>vel\s accuracy by a little ma*9e built on ! same pr9ciple z ! ,b>b] ,knott]4 ,?is avoids draw+-9 a second "t4 ,illu/ration3 ,weav+ ,%$ ( ,p[] ,looms ,sid5ote3 ,! ,p[] ,loom ,:5 ! prep>atory processes h be5 complet$ ! actual weav+ is done1 practically )\t human ag5cy4 ,! %uttle flies back & =? at ! rate ( f "o to two hundr$ picks p] m9ute1 & :5 its ?read is exhau/$ x drops out &1 9 ! automatic loom1 is imm$iately supplant$ by a fre% "o4 ,! h>ness frames j]k up & d[n1 =m+ & re=m+ ! ,v %ap$ %$ ?r\gh :i* ! %uttle passes2 & aft] ea* pick ! batt5 drives home ! new ?read into ! ev]-gr[+ /ret* ( clo?4 ,l ! film 9 a kodak1 :]e a roll] at "o end gives out pla9 pap] :i* is roll$ up at ! o!r end z a magic %eet ( pictures1 s 9 ! loom ! homely w>p ?reads are roll$ out at "o end1 :ile ! roll] at ! o!r extreme w9ds up smoo? gray clo?4 ,we h n[ made y>n out ( cotton1 & unblea*$ cotton clo?1 or gray goods1 out ( our y>n4 ,all t rema9s be=e ! fabric goes to ! f9i%] is an inspection = imp]fections & _! removal :]e possible1 usually by h&4 #d4 ,,conv]t+ ,,& ,,f9i%+ ,sid5ote3 ,old-,fa%ion$ ,blea*+ ,cotton clo? z x comes f ! loom has a gray or yell[i% appe>ance due to ! impurities x conta9s4 ,! old-fa%ion$ me?od ( remov+ ^! consi/s 9 simply spread+ ! clo? 9 ! sun = a few days until x is blea*$ :ite4 ,mo/ clo? mills dispose ( _! goods 9 ! gray & all[ ! f9i%+ to be done by a sep>ate e/abli%m5t1 al?\gh ! l>ge manufactur]s ( 8fancies0 sometimes d _! own f9i%+4 ,sid5ote3 ,sew+ ,toge!r ,! fir/ /ep 9 ! f9i%+ plant is to inspect ! clo? & !n to sew ! ends ( _m pieces toge!r into long /rips4 ,?is greatly facilitates subsequ5t op]ations1 because ! clo? c n[ be run ?r\gh v>i\s processes z a s+le unit4 ,sid5ote3 ,bru%+ ,9 ord] to obta9 a smoo? surface = lat] processes1 ! clo? is fir/ run ?r\gh a ma*9e :i* bru%es up ! fibres & loose ends1 mu* z a c>pet-sweep] picks up ! fibres ( a c>pet4 ,sometimes a blad$ roll] l a lawn-m[] is us$4 ,sid5ote3 ,s+e+ ,remov+ ! rais$ l9t is a dang]\s op]ation because x might easily damage ! clo?1 & ?is is usually done by ! process ( s+e+4 ,! clo? is run rapidly ?r\gh gas flames or ov] hot plates & is quickly cool$4 ,9 ?is way ! fuzz is burn$ (f )\t injur+ ! clo?4 ,sid5ote3 ,napp+ ,illu/ration3 ,inspect+ ,illu/ration3 ,sew+ ,ends ,toge!r ,! next /ep is usually ! blea*+ process1 except :]e ! clo? is to be f9i%$ z a corduroy1 velvet1 or flannel4 ,9 ! latt] case x is fir/ run ?r\gh ! napp]1 a ma*9e :i* bru%es up ! fibre ) wire tee? 9 su* a way z to leave a rais$ face or nap4 ,illu/ration3 ,s+e+ ,sid5ote3 ,blea*+ ,process ,blea*+ is accompli%$ by boil+ ! clo? = sev]al h\rs 9 l>ge iron tanks kn[n z ki]s1 :i* conta9 a solution ( cau/ic soda4 ,next x is wa%$ & sc\r$ 9 dilute acid = sev]al h\rs ) ! object ( remov+ iron /a9s4 ,!n x is aga9 wa%$1 boil$ a second "t1 wa%$1 run ?r\gh a *emical solution ( blea*+ p[d]1 & all[$ to /eep4 ,aft] a la/ wa%+ ! clo? is dri$ by runn+ ov] copp] drums fill$ ) /eam1 & is !n roll$ up 9 bundles ab\t ! size ( a b>rel4 ,sid5ote3 ,:ite ,goods ,if ! clo? is to be f9i%$ z pla9 :ite goods x is next />*$ & iron$ 7cal5d>$71 inspect$1 & put up 9 bolts = %ipm5t4 ,sid5ote3 ,m]c]ization ,if1 h[ev]1 x is desir$ ei!r to dye or pr9t ! clo? ) v>i\s colors & designs1 x /ill has sev]al treatm5ts to pass ?r\gh4 ,:ite goods are sometimes m]c]iz$1 b m commonly ?is process is employ$ ) clo? t is to be dy$4 ,m]c]ization is ! treat+ ( cotton y>n or clo? to ! action ( cau/ic soda dissolv$ 9 wat]1 ! rema9+ soda be+ remov$ by a wa% ( dilute sulphuric acid4 ,! result is an increas$ /r5g? ( fibre1 loss ( ela/icity1 silky appe>ance1 & an aff9ity = c]ta9 dyes & mordants4 ,illu/ration3 ,napp+ ,sid5ote3 ,dye+ ,! subject ( dye+ is "o ( int5se int]e/ & wide scope1 b x is un=tunately beyond ! field ( ?is brief survey4 ,suffice x to say t v>i\s *emical processes & me*anical devices are employ$ to give a p]man5t color to ! clo?4 7,y>n & raw /ock dye+ are less commonly employ$ 9 ! cotton ?an 9 ! wool5 & wor/$ indu/ries47 ,sid5ote3 ,resi/ & ,dis*>ge ,pr9t+ ,"s cotton clo? is simply dy$ ) a solid color & f9i%$1 b frequ5tly x is fir/ dy$ ) "o color & !n pr9t$ ) o!rs1 or ) a *emical :i* w dis*>ge ! dye & leave :ite figures :]ev] x t\*es ! clo?4 ,9 contra/ to ?is dis*>ge me?od1 :]e x is desir$ to obta9 :ite figures on a color$ back-gr\nd1 x is also possible fir/ to pr9t ! figures ) a *emical t w resi/ ! subsequ5t action ( ! dye-/uff4 ,:]e a :ite gr\nd is us$ & x is n ess5tial t ! colors & design appe> on bo? sides ( ! clo? x is n necess>y to dye at all4 ,illu/ration3 ,blea*+ ,ki]s ,sid5ote3 ,pr9t+ ,process ,! pr9t+ process is a v old "o1 & 0 employ$ c5turies ago 9 ,*9a & ,india1 :]e natives us$ to impregnate clo? ) color$ designs by p\nd+ small wood5 blocks c>v$ & fill$ ) color on its surface4 ,! mod]n pr9t+ ma*9e has a s]ies ( copp] roll]s 9 :i* ! design to be pr9t$ is et*$ or sunk4 ,"u ea* roll] :]e x is fix$ 9 ! pr9t+ press is a tr\gh fill$ ) ! p>ticul> color+ matt] :i* t roll] is to pr9t on ! clo?4 ,z ! me*anism revolves ! roll] is con/antly suppli$ ) new color1 :i* is scrap$ (f its surface except :]e ! sunk5 design holds x1 by a knife1 call$ ! doctor4 ,if ! design calls = six colors !re w be six roll]s at "w1 & s on up to f\rte5 colors at a s+le run ?r\gh ! press4 ,sid5ote3 ,engrav+ ,an inf9ite numb] ( designs are pr9t$1 & ! me?od ( gett+ !m et*$ on ! copp] roll] is a fasc9at+ "o4 ,a z9c plate is c>v$ by h& on a greatly enl>g$ scale f ! orig9al sket*1 & f ?is plate ! girls :o op]ate ! pantograph ma*9es transf] ! outl9es ( ea* color on to ! copp] roll]s4 ,illu/ration3 ,pr9t+ ,ma*9e ,sid5ote3 ,! ,pantograph ,:5 ! roll] is plac$ 9 ! pantograph x is coat$ ) v>ni%4 ,z ! girl traces ! outl9es ( ! design on h] z9c plate ) a little po9t]1 %e presses a tr$dle :i* br+s a numb] ( little diamond po9ts 9 contact ) ! roll]4 ,ea* "o ( ^! po9ts cuts ?r\gh ! v>ni%1 reproduc+ ! design 9 its orig9al size4 ,!re w be z _m po9ts z ! numb] ( times ! design is repeat$ across ! roll]4 ,:5 ! roll] is f9i%$ x is giv5 a ba? 9 nitric acid :i* w eat into ! copp] :]e ! v>ni% has be5 cut away1 ?us s9k+ ! design s t x w hold color4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,batt]y ( ,=ty-eight ,sid5ote3 ,ag+ & ,wa%+ ,!re rema9 n[ only ! f9i%+ op]ations be=e ! clo? is ready to be pack$ = ! m>ket4 ,usually1 aft] pr9t+1 ! clo? is /eam$1 or ag$1 to make ! colors fa/4 ,!n x is fix$ & soap$ ?or\ghly1 aft] :i* x is run ?r\gh ! dri]4 ,sid5ote3 ,/>*+ ,sid5ote3 ,! ,t5t] ,9 ord] to give ! clo? ! prop] 8feel0 an op]ation is next p]=m$ :i* closely resembles w>p siz+4 ,a c]ta9 am\nt ( hot />* is press$ into ! clo?1 aft] :i* x is drawn ?r\gh ! t5t] frames & n only dri$ b /ret*$ back to its normal wid?4 ,! t5t] frame is ab\t "o hundr$ feet long & conta9s long l9es ( /eam pipes4 ,on ea* side an endless *a9 ) clips grips ! clo? & mov+ gradually fur!r ap>t1 ^! *a9s /ret* ! clo?1 deliv]+ x dry & ( ev5 wid?4 7,"s goods1 notably ^? made = ,asiatic consumption 9 ,engl&1 are n only />*$ b fill$ ) ,*9a clay1 :i* adds ov] #ajj to _! weight47 ,illu/ration3 ,engrav+ ,plate ,z x comes (f ! t5t] ! clo? goes ?r\gh /eel roll]s & is press$ smoo?1 aft] :i* x is automatically fold$ & made ready = ticket+ & pack+4 #e4 ,,! ,,knitt+ ,,indu/ry ,sid5ote3 ,hi/ory ,we h j se5 by :at processes cotton y>n becomes fir/ gray clo?1 & !n f9i%$ goods4 ,!re is ( c\rse a trem5d\s v>iety ( wov5 fabric1 rang+ all ! way f ! co>se/ sail clo? to ! f9e/ org&ie4 ,& !re are c]ta9 f9i%es su* z velvete5 & corduroy :i*1 = want ( space1 we h n ev5 t\*$ ^u4 ,!re is1 h[ev]1 a :ole class ( cotton fabric :i* is n wov5 b knit2 & s9ce mo/ ( our hosi]y & und]we> are made 9 ?is way1 x behooves u to take at lea/ a brief glance at ! knitt+ indu/ry4 ,illu/ration3 ,transf]r+ ,design to ,copp] ,roll] ,! pr9ciple ( knitt+ is s famili> to e "o :o is or has a "m or wife t no description ( x is necess>y4 ,curi\sly en\gh1 al?\gh ! orig9al /ock+ frame 0 inv5t$ z f> back z #aehi1 p[] 0 appli$ to ! indu/ry = ! fir/ "t at ,cohoes1 ,n4 ,y41 9 #ahcb4 ,?is city is /ill ! c5tre ( und]we> manufacture 9 ?is c\ntry4 ,illu/ration3 ,clo? 9 ,t5t]-frame ,sid5ote3 ,two ,types ( ,ma*9es ,knitt+ is n[ done on two g5]al types ( ma*9es3 ! flat b$ knitt]1 & ! circul> knitt+ ma*9e4 ,9 ! =m] ! g>m5t is knit 9 "o flat piece & seam$ aft]w>ds4 ,und]we> made 9 ?is way is describ$ z full-fa%ion$4 ,on ! circul> ma*9e a seam is n necess>y1 = ! complete cyl9d] ( fabric is made at once4 ,:ile x is possible to manufacture und]we> on a circul> frame1 its use is f> bett] adapt$ to ! knitt+ ( hosi]y1 & a v l>ge indu/ry = ! manufacture ( ?is product has gr[n up 9 & ne> ,philadelphia4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,flat ,b$ ,knitt] ,! ,cotton ,knitt+ ,frame1 inv5t$ 9 #ahfd1 is /ill ! basis ( ! mod]n flat-b$ knitt]4 ,! product is a flat web :i* c be wid5$ or n>r[$ by transf]r+ ! loops f ! edge ne$les to a sep>ate in/rum5t1 & !n replac+ !m4 ,9 knitt+ /ock+s1 ! %ap$ legs are made on "o ma*9e1 !n transf]r$ to a heel]1 & !n to a ?ird ma*9e :i* knits ! feet4 ,! /ock+s !n mu/ be seam$ up ! back4 ,! l>ge/ ma*9es are capable ( knitt+ tw5ty-f\r g>m5ts at "o "t4 ,! advantage ( ?is type is t x produces m ela/ic fabric1 b x requires m op]atives & m highly skill$ labor ?an ! circul> ma*9e4 ,illu/ration3 ,cal5d> ,sid5ote3 ,! ,circul> ,ma*9e ,a s]ies ( inv5tions made 9 ,philadelphia f #ahfg to #ahhi p]fect$ ! completely automatic circul> ma*9e ( :i* !re are n[ m ?an sev5 times z _m 9 use 9 ?is c\ntry ?an !re are full-fa%ion$ knitt]s4 ,! seamless ma*9e goes on cont9u\sly & manufactures ! entire g>m5t at once4 ,n>r[+ is done by %ort5+ ! loops1 & ?is acc\nts = ! loss ( ela/icity4 ,! f9i%+ op]ations consi/ ( seam+1 :]e necess>y1 & remov+ imp]fections4 ,sid5ote3 ,gr[? ,! gr[? & importance ( ! indu/ry is p]haps be/ realiz$ f ! fact t 9 #ahgj !re 7 #e1fbe ma*9es 9 ! c\ntry1 9 #aije1 #hh1cgd1 & n[ well ov] "o hundr$ ?\s&4 ,9 #ahej m5 wore h&-knitt$ socks & flannel und]we>4 ,f #ahfj to #aiaj ! product ( ! c\ntry's knitt+ ma*9es rose f #g1cjj1jjj to #bjj1ajj1jjj4 ,illu/ration3 ,fold+ ,cotton y>n is us$ m ?an wool5 because x sp9s m *eaply & is less difficult to knit4 #f4 ,,o!r ,,cotton ,,products ,be=e conclud+ ?is "p ( our survey :i* deals ) ! manufacture ( cotton into f9i%$ goods1 we mu/ at lea/ enum]ate "s ( ! by-products & m9or fruits ( ! indu/ry4 ,sid5ote3 ,se$ ,oil ,sid5ote3 ,l9t]s ,to beg9 )1 at ! "t t ! cotton is g9n$ ! se$s are sold to ! manufactur]s ( cotton oil4 ,)\t go+ into detail z to ! process1 we h "h an annual product = ?is c\ntry wor? #chd1jjj1jjj4 ,se$ mills reg9 ! se$ be=e !y cru% x & remove ! %ort fibres :i* h hi!rto adh]$ to ! se$4 ,?is rega9$ cotton is kn[n z l9t]s & am\nts annually to ab\t #hjj1jjj bales4 ,sid5ote3 ,felt & ,surgical ,dress+s ,be+ ( v %ort /aple ?is reg9n$ cotton is adapt$ = ! manufacture ( felts & surgical dress+s1 bo? ( :i* are important by-products4 ,sid5ote3 ,lace ,! manufacture ( small-w>es & lace curta9s is ano!r m9or bran* ( cotton manufacture4 ,"h1 h[ev]1 dome/ic production is comp>atively small1 & ! bulk ( ! lace us$ is import$4 ,nev]!less probably ov] #ge1jjj1jjj y>ds#c ( ! lace are made annually 9 ?is c\ntry4 ,sid5ote3 ,gun ,cotton ,sid5ote3 ,collodion ,gun-cotton1 a highly explosive sub/ance1 is obta9$ by soak+ cotton 7usually l9t]s7 9 nitric & sulphuric acids & !n leav+ x to dry4 ,& aga91 gun-cotton dissolv$ 9 e!r & alcohol yields ! mu* us$ surgical adhesive kn[n z collodion4 ,! /ems & leaves ( ! cotton plant are us$ = fodd]1 ! se$ hulls = f]tiliz]1 & !re is 9 fact no "p ( ! plant f :i* man has n le>n$ to d]ive "s useful product4 #c ,?is figure is only r\ghly approximat$4 ,,*apt] ,,iii ,,f ,,mill ,,to ,,consum] #a4 ,,indu/rial ,,organization ,be=e we proce$ to discuss ! v>i\s ways 9 :i* cotton goods are m>ket$ we %all fir/ take a cursory glance at ! way 9 :i* ! indu/ry is subdivid$4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,mill ,treasur] ,! presid5t ( a cotton mill is usually n ! active head ( ! bus9ess2 8 position corresponds to t ( ! *airman ( ! bo>d ( directors 9 ! usual bank+ or m]cantile corporation4 ,! mill treasur] is1 on ! o!r h&1 ! *ief directive =ce1 & he p]=ms ! two all-important functions ( buy+ ! mill's raw cotton & sell+ its product1 ei!r direct or ?r\gh o!r *annels4 ,9 ! mills ( ,new ,b$=d & ,fall ,riv]1 :i* make *iefly gray goods1 ! treasur] usually has 8 (fice at ! mill4 ,9 mo/ o!r ,new ,engl& mills ! treasur] is usually a memb] ( a sell+ h\se & is frequ5tly ! treasur] = m ?an "o mill4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,ag5t or ,supt4 ,:]e ! treasur] has 8 (fice 9 ! mill ! man :o has *>ge ( ! actual op]ation is kn[n z ! mill sup]9t5d5t4 ,8 functions include ! g5]al managem5t ( ! plant & ! pur*as+ ( supplies o!r ?an cotton4 ,:]e ! treasur] ma9ta9s 8 (fice 9 a sell+ h\se1 ! op]at+ head is kn[n z an ,ag5t & enjoys a great] degree ( responsibility & indep5d5ce4 ,!re are ( c\rse a v>y+ numb] ( m9or op]at+ *iefs 9 *>ge ( sundry dep>tm5ts4 ,sid5ote3 ,sp9n+ & ,weav+ 9 ,same ,plant ,! av]age ,new ,engl& cotton mill conta9s ab\t fifty ?\s& sp9dles1 :ile ! ,s\!rn mill runs ab\t tw5ty-five ?\s&4 ,! va/ majority ( mills d bo? sp9n+ & weav+1 al?\gh "s ,s\!rn mills sell y>n & "s ,p5nsylvania e/abli%m5ts d no?+ b weave4 ,( ! entire numb] ( sp9dles 9 ! c\ntry1 #hc1 & ( ! looms #ig1 are 9 mills :i* d bo? sp9n+ & weav+4 ,sid5ote3 ,segregation ( ! ,conv]t] ,9 contra/ to ! t5d5cy t[>ds unification 9 sp9n+ & weav+ is ! ev]-increas+ segregation ( ! conv]t+ plants4 ,! rise ( ! m]*ant-conv]t]1 ! gr[+ dem& = a great v>iety ( f9i%es1 & ! fact t conv]t+ is v mu* *eap] on a l>ge scale1 h all br\ght ab\t an increas+ t5d5cy on ! "p ( ! mill to sell its clo? 9 ! gray1 or to h x f9i%$ on commission4 ,sid5ote3 ,knitt+ ,:ile a few l>ge knitt+ mills sp9 _! own y>n1 ?is is ! exception r ?an ! rule4 ,on ! o!r h& ! knitt+ mills f9i% _! product = ! m>ket !mselves1 & sell ei!r direct or ?r\gh a sell+ h\se4 #b4 ,,! ,,di/ribution ,,( ,,products ,!re are f\r g5]al ways 9 :i* a cotton mill may dispose ( its products3 a4 by sell+ direct1 b4 ?r\gh a sell+ h\se1 c4 ?r\gh a brok]1 d4 ?r\gh a conv]t]4 ,sid5ote3 a4 ,sell+ ,direct ,a few v l>ge mills ma9ta9 sell+ (fices ( _! own 9 ! l>ge c5t]s ( di/ribution ?r\gh :i* !y m>ket _! goods direct to ! jobb]s & retail]s4 ,9 mo/ cases :]e direct sell+ is done1 h[ev]1 ! goods are sold 9 ! gray by ! mill treasur] at ! mill4 ,?is practice is common ) ^? mills :i* make /aple gray goods & :i*1 :5 n sold ahead1 are able to manufacture = /ock aga9/ spot sales4 ,a few ,s\!rn y>n mills also sell direct4 ,sid5ote3 b4 ,gr[? ( ! ,sell+ ,h\se ,! relation betwe5 ! manufactur] & comm]cial bank] or commission h\se is z old z ! indu/ry itself4 ,slat]'s fir/ mill 9 #agij 0 f9anc$ by ,almy ,br[n ( ,bo/on1 :o und]took to m>ket 8 goods & also to furni% him ! cr$it he ne$$ to buy cotton & supplies4 ,9 ! e>ly days ! clo? 0 sold at auction by ! sell+ h\se & ! proce$s less commission cr$it$ to ! mill4 ,lat] on ! factors develop$ ext5sive sell+ organizations ?r\gh\t ! c\ntry by means ( :i* !y 7 able to m>ket ! products ( a good _m mills4 ,sid5ote3 8,fancies0 ,sid5ote3 ,f9ances ,! di/ribution ( fancy goods requires a great deal ( skill4 ,! ,fall & ,spr+ l9es to be manufactur$ by ! mills are s5t out to ! trade by ! sell+ h\se ab\t six mon?s ahead1 & ord]s are tak5 be=e manufacture beg9s s z to be sure t ! l9e w 8take04 ,( c\rse !re is always ! dang] ( cancellations ev5 !n1 = :i* ! sell+ h\se mu/ be> mo/ ( ! responsibility4 ,9 addition to di/ribut+ ! goods & gu>antee+ ! acc\nts1 ! commission h\se r5d]s f9ancial assi/ance ei!r by advanc+ on ! mill's product1 or by indors+ its notes4 ,9 return x receives ! sole ag5cy = ! mill's products1 int]e/ on ! money advanc$ & a commission4 ,! latt] v>ies ) ! am\nt ( f9ancial assi/ance requir$ by ! mill & ! desirability ( ! risk4 ,z a g5]al rule ! ,s\!rn mills1 because ( _! di/ance f ! *ief m>kets 9 ,new ,york1 ,bo/on1 & ,philadelphia1 are m dep5d5t ^u _! sell+ ag5ts ?an ! ,new ,engl& manufactur]s4 ,9 ,new ,engl& a great numb] ( manufactur]s are amply able to f9ance !mselves1 & c\ld if necess>y sell _! own products4 ,/ock own]%ip1 h[ev]1 & old ties h frequ5tly kept up ! relation%ip ) ! sell+ h\ses aft] its usefulness 0 p>tly outworn4 ,nev]!less 9 ! sell+ ( fancy goods1 ev5 :]e ! mill is suppli$ ) pl5ty ( capital1 ! commission h\se fulfills a v necess>y function4 ,sid5ote3 c4 ,! ,brok] ,gray goods are v (t5 sold ei!r by a mill or a sell+ h\se ?r\gh ! m$ium ( a clo? brok]4 ,! latt] is /rictly a middle man 9 t he does no?+ b br+ toge!r prospective pur*as] & sell]4 ,9 ! ev5t ( sale he gets a commission ( 1 :i* he (t5 m ?an e>ns by 8 ef=ts4 ,^! brok]s are 9 t\* ) all ! mills1 conv]t]s1 & consum]s4 ,sid5ote3 d4 ,m]*ant ,conv]t]s ,:ile !re are "s indep5d5t f9i%+ e/abli%m5ts1 mo/ ( !m op]ate on a commission basis = m]*ant conv]t]s4 ,! latt] are a class ( m]*ants ( comp>atively rec5t orig91 hav+ appe>$ fir/ ab\t #ahhj1 s9ce :i* "t !y h practically tak5 control ( ! f9i%+ indu/ry4 ,!y buy gray goods ei!r direct f ! mill1 or ?r\gh a brok] or sell+ h\se1 & h !m f9i%$ accord+ to :atev] !y ?9k ! requirem5ts ( ! m>ket are4 ,inasmu* z !y pay on %ort cr$it & c>ry ! goods dur+ conv]sion1 frequ5tly sell+ on sev]al mon?s' cr$it to jobb]s & retail]s1 !y p]=m an important "p ( ! f9anc+ ( ! clo?4 ,_! rec5t rapid rise has be5 due l>gely to ! gr[+ dem& = a multiplicity ( seasonal designs4 ,"s l>ge cutt]s-up1 & a few big mail-ord] h\ses d _! own f9i%+ or h x done4 ,z a rule !y buy f conv]t]s & sell to ! jobb]1 retail]1 or consum]4 ,we h n[ trac$ ! cotton f ! se$ ?r\gh ! v>i\s processes ( manufacture & f9i%+1 & foll[$ ! f9i%$ goods ?r\gh ! *annels ( di/ribution to ! consum]4 ,x rema9s only = u to comp>e briefly ! position ( ! ,unit$ ,/ates ) t ( o!r c\ntries1 & ! position ( ! v>i\s sections )9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates4 ,,*apt] ,,iv ,,! ,,position ,,( ,,! ,,unit$ ,,/ates #a4 ,,cotton ,,production ,,& ,,consumption ,ev] s9ce ! ,civil ,w> ! ,unit$ ,/ates has produc$ m ?an half ( ! _w's cotton crop4 ,f #ahfj to #aijj ab\t "o-?ird ( ! annual crop 0 consum$ by ! dome/ic indu/ries1 & f t "t dome/ic tak+s h increas$1 except = #aiba1 to an av]age ( ab\t #ej 9 ! la/ few ye>s4 ,dur+ ! same p]iod ! actual size ( ! annual crops increas$ enorm\sly4 ,if we take ! figures f ! pres5t back to #agij x w give a r\gh idea ( ! progress s9ce t "t4 ,ye> ,crop 9 bales ,exports ( dom4 tak+s 7( #ejj lbs47 #agij #c #a #ff #ahej #b1acf #a1hed #ac #ahfj #c1hda #fae #hd #ahgj #d1jbd #b1ibb #bh #ahhj #f1cef #d1dec #cj #ahij #h1efb #e1hej #cb #aijj #aj1bff #f1hjf #cc #aiaj #ab1jje #h1bje #cb #aiae #ab1abb #f1dje #dg #aiag #ab1dbh #d1ehg #fd #aiai #ab1jbh #f1gfj #dd #aiba #h1cea #f1dgi #bc #aibb #aj1cfi #e1jdi #eb 7,express$ 9 ?\s&s ( bales7 ,illu/ration3 ,,_w',s ,,cotton ,,production #aijh ,illu/ration3 ,,_w',s ,,cotton ,,production #aibb-c ,illu/ration3 ,,_w',s ,,cotton ,,consumption #aijh ,illu/ration3 ,,_w',s ,,cotton ,,consumption #aibb-c ,,! ,,int]national ,,acceptance ,,bank1 ,,inc4 ,,& ,,! ,,cotton ,,trade ,,! ,,int]national ,,acceptance ,,bank1 ,,inc41 (f]s to ,,cotton ,,export]s a unique s]vice4 ,x is n only equipp$ to f9ance %ipm5ts to all p>ts ( ! _w1 b1 because ( ! fact t x has z %>ehold]s ! lead+ banks & bank]s ( ,europe1 x is 9 a position to obta9 unusual s]vice1 advice1 & in=mation = its cli5ts4 ,,! ,,int]national ,,acceptance ,,bank1 ,,inc41 is con/antly 9 t\* ) conditions abroad1 & ma9ta9s ext5sive cr$it files on ,european cotton m]*ants & sp9n]s4 ,x n only f9ances millions ( doll>s ( cotton exports e ye> = its dome/ic cli5ts1 b op5s cr$its = an ev5 l>g] am\nt 9 favor ( ,am]ican %ipp]s by ord] ( its cli5ts abroad4 ,,! ,,int]national ,,acceptance ,,bank1 ,,inc41 deals actively 9 =eign ex*ange1 & by reason ( ! l>ge ord]s x receives f abroad1 is (t5 9 a position to pur*ase =eign curr5cy drafts ( cotton %ipp]s at exceptionally f9e rates4 ,,"p ,,two ,,wool ,by ,,james ,,paul ,,w>burg ,vice-,presid5t ,,int]national ,,acceptance ,,bank1 ,,inc4 ,photographs by c\rtesy ( ,! ,am]ican ,wool5 ,co4 ,illu/ration3 ,grad+ fleeces ,,*apt] ,i ,,! ,,raw ,,mat]ial #a4 ,,%eep ,,rais+ ,sid5ote3 ,e>ly ,hi/ory ,! rais+ ( %eep goes s f> back into primitive times t hi/orians h be5 compell$ to draw a veil ov] its orig94 ,:e!r %eep ant$ate man1 or man exi/$ be=e %eep1 is a "q t has nev] be5 au?oritatively answ]$4 ,= our purposes v little hi/ory w suffice4 ,we "k t %eep 7 rais$ 9 ,biblical times1 b we d n "k mu* ab\t !m4 ,we d "k1 h[ev]1 t ! old ,romans practis$ %eep-bre$+ ) great c>e & ev5 w5t s f> z to cov] _! animals ) clo? 9 ord] to pres]ve ! clean quality ( ! fleece4 ,dur+ ! reign ( ! ,roman ,emp]or1 ,claudius 7,a4 ,d41 #ej71 an ,italian nam$ ,columella1 took sev]al ,italian %eep to ,spa9 & cross$ !m ) ! native ,spani% ,m]9o bre$4 ,x is said t ! result+ type is ! prog5itor ( all ! ,m]9o bre$s :i* n[ =m ! basis ( %eep-bre$+4 ,"u ! rule ( ! ,s>ac5s1 ,spa9 became n only a great %eep-rais+ c\ntry1 b a wool5 manufactur+ c\ntry z well4 ,9 ! ?irte5? c5tury !re 7 no less ?an sixte5 ?\s& looms 9 ! t[n ( ,seville alone4 ,sid5ote3 ,spa9 ,:5 ! ,s>ac5s 7 driv5 out by ,philip ,,iii4 ! textile indu/ry disappe>$ f ,spa91 b %eep husb&ry1 :i* did n require skill$ labor1 rema9$1 & ,spani% wool cont9u$ to be ! f9e/ 9 ! _w4 ,sid5ote3 ,europe ,sid5ote3 ,spread ( ,m]9o ,dur+ ! eighte5? c5tury v>i\s ,european c\ntries began to import m]9os & cross !m ) _! native bre$s4 ,?is1 because ( ! /urdy quality ( "s ( ! native types1 frequ5tly produc$ excell5t results4 ,9 ,france we ?us h ! orig9 ( ! ,ramb\illet m]9o1 9 ,g]many & ,au/ria ( ! ,saxony & ,silesian bre$s4 ,9 #ahaj m]9os 7 fir/ introduc$ into ,au/ralia ) a/oni%+ results bo? z to grade ( wool & increase ( flocks4 ,ab\t ! same "t ,s\? ,am]ica1 ,s\? ,africa1 & ! ,unit$ ,/ates import$ ,spani% %eep4 ,( all ! highly civiliz$ c\ntries1 ,engl& is ! only "o :]e m]9o bre$+ 0 n successful4 ,?is 0 due 9 "p to ! climate1 b ! *ief cause 0 ! fact t ,briti% %eep-rais+ 0 prim>ily = mutton purposes1 & only second>ily = wool4 ,! m]9o types are small]1 & h5ce d n yield z good mutton c>casses z "s ( ! native 8,d[n0 & 8,m\nta90 bre$s4 ,9 _m cases1 h[ev]1 ! native ,engli% bre$s1 notably ! ,l9colns1 h be5 import$ to o!r c\ntries & !re cross$ ) m]9os ) v good success4 ,sid5ote3 ,native ,bre$s ,x w\ld n be possible to give 9 detail ! v>i\s bre$s ( %eep exi/+ 9 diff]5t c\ntries4 ,m]9o %eep are n[ br$ 9 _m p>ts ( ! _w1 &1 toge!r ) ! high crossbr$s1 are ! s\rce ( all ! f9e wools kn[n z m]9o1 half-blood1 & ?ree-eigh?s wools4 ,long wools are d]iv$ f v>i\s native bre$s1 *iefly ,engli%1 & f ! l[] crossbr$s ( m]9os1 su* z qu>t] & l[ qu>t] bloods4 ,*9ese1 ,sib]ian1 & ,turki% wools1 z well z _m o!r unciviliz$ types1 are usually v long & co>se1 & are kn[n z c>pet & braid wools4 ,sid5ote3 ,s\rces ,mo/ ( ! be/ m]9o wools come f ,au/ralia1 ! next be/ f ,s\? ,africa1 & f ,s\? ,am]ica4 ,! latt] h "o fault 9 t !y conta9 _m spiral burrs :i* are difficult to remove1 & :i* frequ5tly get ?r\gh ! ma*9es & %[ up z imp]fections 9 ! clo?4 ,europe gr[s "s v f9e %ort wools1 b ^! h>dly ev] leave ! c\ntries !y are gr[n 94 ,sid5ote3 ,u4 ,s4 ,dome/ic ,unit$ ,/ates wools are kn[n z 8dome/ic0 & 8t]ritory40 ,dome/ic wools are ^? gr[n 9 ! ea/]n & middle we/]n /ates1 notably 9 ! ,ohio valley4 ,^! conta9 ! highe/ grades ( m]9o wools gr[n 9 ?is c\ntry4 ,x mu/ be rememb]$ t %eep rais+ began 9 ! ,ea/1 & z civilization exp&$1 0 gradually cr[d$ fur!r & fur!r we/w>d4 ,! op5+ ( ! ,erie ,canal 9 #ahbe made available ! f]tile pa/ure l&s ( ! ,ohio valley4 ,! ,ohio ,canal eight ye>s lat] op5$ up /ill m t]ritory1 & 9 #ahdi dur+ ! fam\s gold ru%1 %eep 7 fir/ tak5 to ,cali=nia4 ,sid5ote3 ,t]ritory ,! t]ritory wools are ^? gr[n 9 ! ,rocky ,m\nta9 ,plateau /ates4 ,rec5tly1 ) improv$ me?ods & great] c>e 9 bre$+1 "s v f9e wools h be5 d]iv$ f ,idaho1 ,wyom+1 ,nevada1 & ,montana1 & f a few o!r /ates4 ,! ,texas & ,cali=nia wools are usually class$ sep>ately1 because !y are 9 mo/ cases clipp$ twice a ye>4 ,a little lat] we %all discuss ! v>i\s grades & sorts ( wool obta9$ f ! diff]5t bre$s1 b z ! wool is %orn or pull$ be=e x is grad$1 we %all take up ^! processes fir/4 ,,av]age ,,weights ,,( ,,diff]5t ,,bre$s ,,( ,,%eep ,,) ,,weights ,,( ,,fleeces ,bre$ ,ewes ,rams ,fleece ,p\nds ,p\nds ,p\nds ,leice/] #ahe #bce #aj ,cotswold #bjj #bhe #ab ,l9coln #bej #cjj #ae ,s\?d[n #ade #bjj #f ,engli% ,bre$s 7,mutton7 ,%rop%ire #afe #bae #i ,ox=d #bbj #bge #aa ,hamp%ire #bjj #bge #h ,ramb\illet ,m]4 #aee #bce #ah ,am]4 ,m]9o ,a4 #aje #ade #bb 0 0 ,b4 #aaj #aee #bj ,m]9o ,bre$s 0 0 ,c4 #abe #age #ah 7dela9e7 #b4 ,,%e>+ ,,& ,,m>ket+ ,,( ,,fleece ,,wool ,wool is obta9$ f ! %eep 9 two ways2 x is ei!r %orn f ! live animal1 or pull$ f ! sk9 ( ! slaught]$ c>cass4 ,sid5ote3 ,%e>+ ,sid5ote3 ,au/ralian ,sy/em ,%e>+ 0 =m]ly done by h&4 ,an exp]t 0 able to clip z _m z "o hundr$ head p] day1 b ! av]age 0 less ?an half ( t am\nt4 ,! introduction ( ma*9e %e>+ has made x possible = "o man to %e> f #age to #bjj %eep 9 a day1 & ! fleece is v mu* m ev5ly clipp$ ?an =m]ly4 ,"s m]9o bre$s1 kn[n z type ,a1 h s _m folds ( loose sk9 t ma*9e %e>+ is n feasible1 b except = ^! animals1 & "s ( ! type ,b or ,ramb\illet ,m]9os1 almo/ all %eep are n[ %orn by ma*9e1 t is1 :]e !y are rais$ 9 numb]s4 ,%eep rais+ 9 ?is c\ntry is n pursu$ ) ne>ly s mu* c>e z1 = in/ance1 9 ,au/ralia4 ,!re !y h huge %e>+ %$s :]e ! animals are fir/ sweat$ & !n c>efully %orn4 ,:]eas "h ! entire fleece is left 9 "o piece1 9 ,au/ralia ! belly is %orn sep>ately & ea* fleece is c>efully skirt$1 t is1 ! inf]ior p>ts su* z ! brit* are torn (f4 ,!n ea* fleece is fold$ & ti$ up & ! fleeces are put up 9 bales4 ,moreov]1 a bale usually conta9s fleeces ( ! same grade1 s t practically no?+ b sort+ rema9s to be done by ! pur*as]4 ,"h1 on ! o!r h&1 fleeces are %orn 9 "o piece & are fold$ up c>elessly1 )\t skirt+4 ,! ty+ up is frequ5tly done 9 a slov5ly mann]1 & a bag w v (t5 conta9 all grades ( wool f ! f9e/ to ! co>se/4 ,( late ye>s "s attempt has be5 made to in/all ! ,au/ralian sy/em1 b )\t mu* success4 ,sid5ote3 ,seasons ,! %e>+ season 9 ! nor!rn hemisph]e is 9 ! spr+1 9 c\ntries bel[ ! equator1 except ,au/ralia1 x is1 ( c\rse1 9 our fall4 ,9 ,texas & ,cali=nia1 z well z 9 "s o!r localities1 %e>+ is frequ5tly done twice a ye>4 ,sid5ote3 ,m>ket+ ,r\ghly speak+1 !re are sev5 ways 9 :i* ! wool gr[] may dispose ( 8 fleece wool3 ,sid5ote3 ,m]*ant ,buy]s #a4 ,he may sell x to buy]s repres5t+ m]*ants4 ,! m]*ant1 :ile he is a middle man & !re=e incurs ! usual ana!ma1 p]=ms a v>iety ( v ess5tial s]vices4 ,at ! "t ( ! clip he s5ds 8 buy]s to ! wool produc+ c5t]s & buys ! clip = ca%1 !n he %ips x to 8 w>eh\se1 grades x1 & sells to ! mills on cr$it4 ,obvi\sly he f9ances a v important "p ( ! production1 & is fur!rmore ess5tial1 because he kn[s ! dem&1 :i* ! wool-gr[] does n1 & ! supply--( :i* ! mill is usually ignorant4 ,sid5ote3 ,mill ,buy]s #b4 ,! wool gr[] may also sell to buy]s repres5t+ mills4 ,he likes to d ?is because he elim9ates ! m]*ant's pr(it1 b1 z a matt] ( fact1 !re are only v few mills l>ge en\gh to /& ! buy+ exp5se1 & ev5 few] t c af=d to buy _! :ole season's supply ( raw mat]ial at "o "t & = ca%4 ,also1 mills c usually employ only c]ta9 grades ( wool1 & _c !re=e z a rule buy a :ole clip4 ,sid5ote3 ,consignm5t #c4 ,if ! gr[] ?9ks t he is n receiv+ fair (f]s f ! visit+ buy]s1 he w frequ5tly consign 8 wool to a m]*ant to be sold on commission = 8 acc\nt4 ,9 ?is case he may or may n get a bett] price1 b x co/s him 8 c>ry+ *>ges plus commission4 ,!re are "s wool h\ses t make x a specialty to execute commission sales ( ?is nature4 ,sid5ote3 ,local ,mills #d4 ,"s wool is sold direct to ne>by mills4 ,?is is done p>ticul>ly 9 ,ohio1 :]e _m ( ! small] mills obta9 _! entire requirem5ts 9 ?is mann]4 ,sid5ote3 ,local ,deal]s #e4 ,wool gr[]s sometimes sell to local deal]s4 ,?is is p>ticul>ly preval5t 9 regions :]e ! individual gr[]'s production is small4 ,9 mo/ ea/]n /ates !re are a great numb] ( small f>m]s :o gr[ a c]ta9 am\nt ( wool4 ,! local deal]s are 9 _m cases also ! g5]al /ore-keep]s1 &1 s9ce !y are ! f>m]'s cr$itor on o!r m]*&ise1 & s9ce ! av]age f>m] kn[s v little ab\t ! grades ( wool1 ^! individuals v frequ5tly turn a h&some pr(it :5 !y 9 turn sell to ! visit+ buy]s4 ,sid5ote3 ,coop4 ,sales #f4 ,"s wool is sold ?r\gh f>m]s' co-op]ative sales ag5cies1 b ^! organizations h 9 ! pa/ be5 s poorly adm9i/]$1 t1 z a g5]al rule !y h n be5 successful4 ,! movem5t is1 h[ev]1 ga9+ gr\nd & has %[n great progress dur+ rec5t ye>s4 ,sid5ote3 ,auctions #g4 ,f9ally1 !re rema9s ! me?od :]eby almo/ all ! ,briti% & colonial wools are sold1 namely1 by auction4 ,auction sales h be5 e/abli%$ = almo/ a c5tury 9 ,london1 ,liv]pool1 ,antw]p1 ,brem51 ,hamburg1 ,m>seilles1 & rec5tly 9 ,au/ralia4 ,?is me?od ( dispos+ ( _! raw product does n1 h[ev]1 appeal to ! ,am]ican gr[]s1 because ( ! inh]5t ,am]ican trad+ in/9ct4 ,x is also n v feasible 9 ?is c\ntry1 because ! wool is n grad$ 9 ! %e>+ %$s & because %eep-rais+ 9 n /&>diz$4 ,sid5ote3 ,m>kets ,! *ief m>kets = wool 9 ?is c\ntry are ,bo/on1 ,philadelphia1 ,*icago1 ,new ,york & ,/4 ,l\is4 #c4 ,,pull$ ,,wool ,we h above discuss$ ! %e>+ & m>ket+ ( wool obta9$ f ! liv+ animal4 ,!re rema9s a l>ge quantity ( wool :i* is tak5 f ! pelts ( slaught]$ %eep4 ,9 #aiai !re 7 produc$ #dh1cjj1jjj p\nds ( pull$ wool 9 ! ,u4 ,s4 z aga9/ #bfe1ici1jjj p\nds ( %e>$ wool4 ,sid5ote3 ,use ,sk9 wool1 or tann]'s wool1 z x is sometimes kn[n1 is us$ ext5sively = s(t twi/ y>ns1 b$ blankets1 flannels1 felts1 etc4 ,x is also us$ z an admixture 9 bl5ds = top-mak+1 z we %all see lat]4 ,!re are ?ree me?ods :]eby pull$ wool is obta9$4 ,sid5ote3 ,sweat+ ,! olde/ & simple/ process is kn[n z sweat+1 & consi/s simply 9 sweat+ ! hides until ! wool is loos5$ & c easily be pull$ out4 ,! disadvantage ( ?is me?od is t x injures ! hides4 ,sid5ote3 ,lime ,! lime process consi/s 9 loos5+ ! wool by pa9t+ ! fle% side ( ! hide ) lime4 ,?is also injures ! hides some:at & has a bad effect on ! dye+ qualities ( ! wool4 ,sid5ote3 ,depilatory ,! depilatory process is ! be/1 & v>ies f ! lime process only 9 t a solution is us$ in/ead ( lime4 ,?is mixture consi/s ( sodium sulphate1 sulphuric acid1 & oy/] %ells4 ,by f> ! greate/ pull]y 9 ! _w is situat$ at ,mazamet1 ,france1 :]e ! indu/ry has assum$ gigantic proportions4 ,! l>ge pack]s 9 ?is c\ntry all op]ate _! own pull]ies1 & ! pull$ wool is m>ket$ l>gely by !m4 ,mo/ mills buy _! pull$ wool direct f ! pull]ies1 b "s is h&l$ by m]*ants4 #d4 ,,:at ,,is ,,wool ,we h n[ trac$ ! wool f ! %eep's back z f> z ! bag1 & may assume t ! bag has travell$ f ! %e>+ %$ to ! m]*ant's or mill's w>eh\se4 ,"s =eign wools1 notably ,au/ralian & ,s\? ,am]ican1 are1 z we h se51 skirt$ & r\ghly grad$ 9 ! %e>+ %$1 s t1 :5 ! bag is op5$1 !re rema9s only ! sort+ to d4 ,grad+ is ! sep>ation ( fleeces into classifi$ gr\ps4 ,skirt+ is ! removal f ea* fleece ( ! wor/ p>ts1 namely1 ! brit* wool1 manure locks 7kn[n z tags71 & matt$ or kempy portions4 ,sort+ is ! divid+ ( ! individual fleece into v>i\s classifications4 ,sid5ote3 ,wool z ,aga9/ ,hair ,be=e we take up ! grades & sorts 9 detail1 x w be well = u to inquire briefly into ! nature ( ! wool fibre4 ,9 ! fir/ place1 wool diff]s f hair 9 t its fibre consi/s ( a core 7m$ulla71 a pulp 7cortex71 & an epid]mis4 ,a hair follicle consi/s ( a m$ulla & an epid]mis4 ,moreov]1 ! epid]mis ( a hair is closely & ev5ly scal$1 :i* makes x smoo? & lu/r\s4 ,! surface ( a wool fibre is n ev5ly s]rat$1 :i* acc\nts = ! felt+1 or int]lock+1 quality4 ,wool 9 :i* !re is insuffici5t moi/ure & natural grease 7yolk7 frequ5tly becomes felt$ at ! ends4 ,su* wool is v>i\sly ref]r$ to z cott$1 cotty1 or bra%y4 ,! t5sile /r5g? ( a wool fibre is l[1 its ela/icity high4 ,! l5g? ( ! fibre v>ies f "o to ov] t5 in*es1 & ! diamet] f 4#jjah to 4#jjd in*es4 ,! bett] a wool ! less l x is to a hair4 ,g5]ally speak+1 ! f9] ! wool1 ! %ort] ! fibre1 b l5g? alone w\ld n indicate ! grade4 ,pure m]9o & high cross-br$ wools h a close wave1 kn[n z crimp1 :i* increases ! ela/icity & is !re=e desirable f a sp9n+ /&po9t4 ,! *emical composition ( wool is3 c>bon #ej1 hydrog5 #g1 nitrog5 #ah1 oxyg5 #bb1 & sulphur #c4 ,x is soluble 9 alkalies1 & at a temp]ature ( #acj ,c4 w r$uce to p[d]4 ,sid5ote3 ,%r9kage ,wool be=e x is sc\r$ conta9s a l>ge quantity ( yolk1 or natural grease1 & also1 besides du/ & vegetable matt]1 a consid]able am\nt ( dri$ p]spiration1 or su9t4 ,! am\nt ( weight lo/ ?r\gh ! removal ( ^! sub/ances :5 ! wool is sc\r$ is t]m$ %r9kage4 ,x w be readily appreciat$ t ?is is a v important factor 9 connection ) ! pur*ase ( grease wool4 ,! p]c5tage ( %r9kage v>ies f #bj to #hj4 ,nev]!less a good buy] w (t5 be able to e/imate )9 "o or two p] c5t4 ,! factors to be consid]$ 9 ?is connection are ! bre$1 ! soil1 ! climate1 & ! c>e ) :i* ! %eep are rais$1 z well z ! dilig5ce ) :i* ! fleeces are put up4 ,f9e wools always %r9k m heavily ?an co>se2 & pull$ wools1 s9ce !y are wa%$ & bru%$ dur+ ! process1 %[ a v mu* l[] %r9kage ?an fleece wools4 ,! av]age %r9kage ( ,unit$ ,/ates wools is ab\t #ee4 ,f9e dome/ics %r9k ab\t #fj4 ,l[] grades ab\t #de4 ,f9e t]ritory wools ab\t #fe2 l[] grades ab\t #ee4 ,pull$ wool av]ages ab\t #bg4 ,f9e ,au/ralian wools av]age #di1 =1 al?\gh !y are ! f9e/1 ! fleeces conta9 less dirt4 ,cape wools ab\t #fb1 & ,s\? ,am]ican ab\t #ea4 ,sid5ote3 ,qualities ,desir$ ,! qualities look$ = 9 wool are r\ghly six1 & !y v>y accord+ to ! purpose = :i* ! wool is to be us$4 #a4 ,x mu/ be f9e en\gh to sp9 ! requir$ numb] ( c\nts4 #b4 ,x mu/ be /rong en\gh to )/& /ra9 ( manufacture4 #c4 ,x mu/ h ! prop] /aple 7l5g?74 #d4 ,x mu/ be ( a c]ta9 s(tness or h>dness4 #e4 ,x mu/ h ! prop] felt+ qualities if ! mat]ial is to be full$4 #f4 ,x mu/ ei!r sc\r :ite1 or else h suffici5t lu/re to take dyes4 ,sid5ote3 ,clo?+ & ,comb+ ,z we take up ! manufacture ( wor/$ & wool5 y>ns we %all see h[ ^! qualifications play a diff]5t "p 9 ! two processes4 ,at ! outset ! only important diff]5ce we are conc]n$ ) is /aple l5g?4 ,g5]ally speak+1 wools "u two in*es are too %ort to be comb$ & are class$ z clo?+ wools4 ,clo?+ wools are us$ = wool5s1 comb+ wools = wor/$s4 ,?is applies only to wools ( f9e fibre4 ,! m]e fact t a wool has long /aple l5g? does n make x a comb+ wool4 ,z a rule1 ! co>s] ! wool ! long] its /aple1 & ! longe/ wools are ! exce$+ly co>se 8common0 or 8braid0 wools1 :i* c only be us$ = c>pet manufacture4 ,illu/ration3 ,sort+ ,wool ,9 grad+ & sort+1 practically ! only guide is ! f95ess ( ! individual fibre4 ,! o!r qualifications j enum]at$ h a v important be>+ on :at ! wool c be us$ =1 b !y h v little to d ) its classification by grades4 ,sid5ote3 ,classifications ,fleece wools are grad$ by two sy/ems1 "o by bloods1 ! o!r by c\nts spun4 7,?is means ! numb] ( hanks ( #efj y>ds ea* to a p\nd ( y>n47 ,dome/ic & =eign wools are usually grad$ by bloods4 ,u4 ,s4 ,t]ritory wools are grad$ a little diff]5tly1 z p] second column bel[1 & pull$ wool is only r\ghly grad$ into f\r classes 7?ird column74 ,! blood classifications orig9at$ f ! bre$+ ( ! %eep1 b1 z a matt] ( fact !y h become arbitr>y t]ms d5ot+ a c]ta9 degree ( f95ess4 ,! same fleece may1 & frequ5tly does1 conta9 1 1 & blood wool4 ,,comp>ative ,,grades ,u4 ,s4 ,u4 ,s4 ,pull$ ,u4 ,s4 ,c\nts ,=eign ,dome/ic ,t]ritory ,spun ,c\nts4 ,full blood 7,,xx7 ,f9e ,,aa #fjs #ff-gds 0 7,x7 #ejs #fj-ffs 0 ,a #djs #ed-fjs 0 ,b #cfs #dh-eds 0 ,b #cbs #dd-dhs ,l[ ,l[ ,c #bjs #dj-dds ,common ,common ,c #afs #cf-djs ,braid ,braid ,c #abs #cb-cfs ,sid5ote3 ,grad+ ,sid5ote3 ,skirt+ ,sid5ote3 ,sort+ ,:5 a bag ( dome/ic wool is op5$ ! fleeces are tak5 out "o by "o & put into baskets accord+ to ! grades 9 ! fir/ column4 ,! grad] simply decides :at ! majority ( ! fleece is & puts x into t class4 ,:5 he has fill$ a basket )1 let u say1 half-blood fleeces1 ?is basket is giv5 to a sort]4 ,he takes ea* fleece1 %akes x out1 &1 fir/ ( all1 skirts x4 ,!n he sep>ates x into ! v>i\s sorts x conta9s4 ,fleeces grad$ z half-blood w probably sort into mo/ly half1 "s f9e 7full-blood71 & a consid]able quantity ( ?ree-eigh?s blood4 ,! be/ wool comes (f ! %\ld]s1 !n ! sides1 !n ! back1 !n ! ?ighs1 & f9ally ! brit* & belly4 ,usually a fleece w n conta9 m ?an ?ree sorts4 ,if ?is 7 a bag ( ,au/ralian1 ,s\? ,am]ican1 or ,cape wool1 ! fleeces w\ld 9 all probability h be5 bagg$ accord+ to grades1 s t only ! sort+ op]ation w\ld h to be p]=m$ by ! m]*ant or ! mill4 ,:5 ! wool has be5 sort$ x is put into b9s1 & may n[ be said to be ready = ! fir/ ( ! manufactur+ processes = :i* x is de/9$4 ,sort+ is sometimes done by ! m]*ants1 b m frequ5tly by ! manufactur]s4 ,sid5ote3 ,(f-sorts ,kempy or cott$ pieces1 tags1 /a9$ or pa9ty wool1 etc41 are call$ (f-sorts1 & ^! are put ?r\gh a numb] ( processes = ! purpose ( reclaim+ z mu* ( ! wool z possible4 ,illu/ration3 ,sc\r+ ,ma*9e ,,*apt] ,,ii ,,wor/$ ,,manufacture #a4 ,,sc\r+ ,:5 ! wool has be5 grad$ x is sold ei!r to wor/$ manufactur]s or to mak]s ( wool5 goods4 ,! two indu/ries are entirely di/9ct & sep>ate4 ,! fir/ cog 9 ! wor/$ ma*9e is ! wool comb]1 or top-mak]4 ,sometimes he buys assort$ grades1 kn[n z mat*+s1 f a wool m]*ant2 sometimes he buys & sorts 8 own wool2 b mo/ frequ5tly he sorts & combs ! wool on a commission basis4 ,_m ( ! big wor/$ mills d _! own sort+ & comb+4 ,sid5ote3 ,bl5d+ ,tops are usually made f bl5ds ( v>i\s k9ds ( wool1 & ?is bl5d+ is done aft] sort+1 be=e ! wool is sc\r$4 ,sid5ote3 ,sc\r+ ,sc\r+ is no?+ m or less ?an a glorifi$ wa%+4 ,a ma*9e closely ak9 to a gigantic laundry ma*9e removes fir/ ! yolk or grease 9 an alkal9e solution1 & !n r9ses out ! dirt & su9t 9 a s]ies ( soap & wat] ba?s4 ,! la/ ba? is pure wat]1 & f ?is ! wool is tak5 on a belt ?r\gh ! dri]4 ,f ! dri] x is usually bl[n ?r\gh tubes to ! c>d+ room4 ,illu/ration3 ,wor/$ c>d+ ,ma*9e ,approximately #bj ( ! moi/ure is all[$ to rema9 9 ! wool 9 ord] to facilitate subsequ5t processes4 ,if ! wool is /ill w>m x is easi] to c>d4 #b4 ,,c>d+ ,sid5ote3 ,op5s ,fibres ,! purpose ( ! c>d+ op]ation is to op5 out ! fibres 9 ! wool4 ,orig9ally1 c>d+ 0 done by h& ) two lea!r surfaces1 mu* l butt] pats1 ! inn] faces ( :i* 7 /udd$ ) wire nails4 ,betwe5 ^! two surfaces ! wool 0 rubb$ until all ! fibres 7 op5$ out4 ,9 wool5 manufacture c>d+ is m viol5t & seeks to lay ! fibres 9 all directions4 ,wor/$ c>d+ aims to sep>ate ! fibres1 b also to keep !m z closely p>allel z possible4 ,illu/ration3 ,wool5 c>d4 ,fe$ end ,illu/ration3 ,wool5 c>d4 ,cond5s] end ,illu/ration3 ,back ,wa%+ ,sid5ote3 ,! ,c>d ,! c>d+ ma*9e is some:at simil> to t us$ = cotton 7see page #bb74 ,! wool is automatically f$ betwe5 ! fe$ roll]s1 :i* revolve 9 opposite directions & are arm$ ) heavy tee?4 ,f ! fe$ a roll] kn[n z ! lick]-9 />ts ! wool on its c\rse ov] a numb] ( cyl9d]s1 ea* ( :i* is surr\nd$ by sev]al too!d roll]s kn[n z work]s4 ,ea* work] has a small] companion roll]1 revolv+ at a high] spe$1 :i* d]ives its "n ( /ripp] f ! fact t its function is to take ! wool (f ! work] & deliv] x to ! next work]4 ,! la/ roll]1 kn[n z ! fancy1 raises ! wool (f ! cyl9d] to be caught by ! d(f]4 ,! d(f+-comb lifts ! wool 9 a filmy %eet ( fibres1 :i* is cond5s$ into a ?ick untwi/$ rope by pass+ ?r\gh a funnel on to ! ball+-head4 ,?is rope1 :i* is ab\t an in* & a half 9 diamet]1 is kn[n z a sliv]4 ,a c]ta9 l5g? ( x is automatically roll$ into balls & ^! are tak5 into ! back-wa% room4 ,f a loose unrelat$ mass ! wool has n[ be5 trans=m$ into a cont9u\s /r& ( m or less uni=m diamet]4 ,illu/ration3 ,gill+ be=e comb+ #c4 ,,backwa%+ ,,& ,,gill+ ,a back-wa% ma*9e takes sev]al ( ! c>d$ sliv]s & comb9es !m into "o4 ,! sliv]s pass ?r\gh sev]al ba?s :i* r9se !m ?or\ghly & are !n sl[ly drawn ?r\gh a dri]4 ,! process is q simil> to sc\r+1 except t x is v mu* less viol5t4 ,sid5ote3 ,comb9+ & ,draw+ ,sliv]s ,z ! sliv]s come out ( ! dri] !y are f$ ?r\gh a numb] ( gill boxes4 ,! gill box is ! fir/ ( a long s]ies ( draw+ op]ations4 ,9 ?is1 & all ! foll[+ /ages ( op5 draw+1 !re are always sev]al sliv]s be+ comb9$ into "o & drawn out until ! result+ sliv] has ab\t ! same or a small] diamet] ?an ! ones f$ into ! ma*9e4 ,! pr9ciple ( ! gill box is q simple4 ,sev]al sliv]s are f$ 9 betwe5 roll]s revolv+ at a comp>atively l[ rate ( spe$4 ,z !y pass ?r\gh !y are flatt5$ out ov] :at is kn[n z a fall]4 ,?is is arm$ ) v f9e close wire tee? :i* come up ?r\gh ! fibres & ! draft is imp>t$ :5 ! wool is tak5 (f ! fall] by a f9al pair ( roll]s :i* are revolv+ consid]ably fa/]4 ,! %eet ( wool :i* em]ges f ^! roll]s is aga9 pass$ ?r\gh a funnel & !reby cond5s$ once m into a sliv]4 ,?is op]ation is repeat$ f two to f\r times1 accord+ to ! quality ( ! top desir$1 & ! me?ods employ$ by ! p>ticul> mill4 ,illu/ration3 ,gill+ ! top ,:]e v co>se long fibr$ wool is to be work$ !re is no c>d+1 & ! wool is prep>$ by /raight5+ ! fibres into a sliv] ?r\gh a s]ies ( gill-boxes4 ,at "s po9t dur+ ! gill+ process a slight am\nt ( oil is usually dropp$ onto ! sliv]1 z ?is facilitates comb+4 #d4 ,,comb+ ,sid5ote3 ,removes ,%ort ,fibres ,! next op]ation1 namely t ( comb+1 is aga9 simple :5 view$ z ! primitive manufactur+ process4 ,! old comb] w\ld take a %ort l5g? ( sliv]1 hang x on a nail by ty+ "o end toge!r & !n proce$ to comb out ! %ort fibres mu* z "o may comb out ! dead %ort hairs f a dog's coat4 ,comb+ is simply ! removal f ! sliv] ( ! %ort fibres :i* w\ld n sp9 prop]ly4 ,^! %ort fibres are kn[n z noils & are ! wa/e product ( top-mak+4 ,! top is a cont9u\s untwi/$ /r& ( long wool fibres made p>allel by ! comb4 7,by long fibres we mean fibres :i* are relatively long4 ,"s tops consi/ ( fibres less ?an an in* & a half 9 l5g?4 ,9 ?is case1 :i* is v infrequ5t1 ! noil w\ld be ev5 %ort]47 ,illu/ration3 ,! ,noble ,comb ,sid5ote3 ,noils ,noils are sold ei!r to wool5 or knitt+ mills direct by ! top-mak]1 or else to a m]*ant :o disposes ( !m4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,noble ,comb ,! ,noble circul> comb is ! mo/ g5]ally us$ comb+ ma*9e4 ,o!r types are ! ,li/]1 ! ,hold51 & ! ,heilmann4 ,! ,noble comb is a compact circul> /ructure /&+ at a height ( ab\t ?ree feet f ! floor1 ) a /eam box und]nea? x4 7,heat greatly facilitates ! process47 ,!re are two small] circles inside ! ma9 circumf]5ce :i* are tang5t to ! out] circle at opposite po9ts ( its diamet]4 ,all rotate 9 ! same direction4 ,sev5ty-two sliv]s are roll$ up 9 creels on ! outside ( ! ma9 circle & are automatically f$ on to ! tang5tal po9ts4 ,a dabb+ bru% pu%es ! sliv]s d[n betwe5 ! po9ts ( ! two circles4 ,z ! circles draw ap>t ! long fibres are left protrud+ f ! inn] edge ( ! out] circle & ! out] edge ( ! inn] circles4 ,!y travel ?us until !y are gripp$ by v]tical roll]s set to cat* !m4 ,aft] pass+ ! roll]s ! wool is lift$ (f ! p9s ( ! circles by knives4 ,! f\r ribbons ( comb$ fibres 7two f ! out] & "o f ea* ( ! inn] circles7 are cond5s$ into a s+le beautiful ev5 b& :i* coils itself s(tly into a revolv+ c4 ,:at rema9s is ! wa/e or noil4 ,sid5ote3 ,gill+ ! ,top ,! top1 z x comes f ! comb1 is aga9 put ?r\gh a s]ies ( sev]al gill boxes ) ! object ( fur!r draw+ x out4 ,once aga9 sev]al sliv]s are comb9$ into "o 9 ea* process4 ,at ! end ( ?is gill+ ! top is coil$ 9 balls & all[$ to re/4 ,we h n[ r$uc$ ! wool to its real wor/$ basis4 ,! noils h be5 tak5 out1 & ! balls ( top are ready to be s5t to ! sp9n] to be spun into wor/$ y>n4 #e4 ,,sp9n+ ,sid5ote3 ,draw+ ,! fir/ processes 9 a sp9n+ mill v closely approximate ! la/ op]ations 9 ! comb+ plant4 ,! tops are usually gill$ sev]al times be=e weigh+1 & !n are put ?r\gh sev]al draw+ ma*9es 9 :i*1 z h]et(ore1 sev]al sliv]s are cond5s$ into "o4 ,9 ! la/ ( ^! ma*9es !re are no fall]s1 ! entire process consi/+ ( two sets ( roll]s revolv+ at diff]5t spe$4 ,ea* op]ation results 9 a slightly f9] sliv]1 & ! numb] ( ma*9es ?r\gh :i* ! mat]ial is drawn is det]m9$ by ! f95ess ( ! y>n desir$4 ,sid5ote3 ,fr5* ,sid5ote3 ,engli% ,! la/ ( ! draw+ processes is ! s-call$ rov+ box1 :i*1 9 mo/ cases is a cone-draw+ process4 ,!re is a diff]5ce "h betwe5 ,fr5* sp9n+ & ,engli% sp9n+4 ,accord+ to ! ,fr5* sy/em1 :i* is employ$ 9 ?is c\ntry only = v s(t f9e y>ns1 no twi/ is giv5 to ! sliv] until ! actual sp9n+ beg9s2 & ! sp9n+ is !n usually done on mules1 :i* 9 ?is c\ntry are r>ely us$ 9 ! manufacture ( wor/$ y>n4 ,we %all discuss ^! ma*9es :5 we come to wool5s4 ,accord+ to ! mo/ common proc$ure 9 ?is c\ntry1 ! rov+ box n only draws1 b imp>ts a c]ta9 am\nt ( twi/ to ! y>n4 ,?is is done by w9d+ ! y>n f horizontal spools on to v]tical sp9dles4 ,^! sp9dles are set on long frames1 simil> to sp9n+ frames1 "o frame conta9+ ab\t #bjj sp9dles4 ,! y>n is guid$ on ! bobb9 by an arm1 kn[n z ! fly]1 :i* draws ! bobb9 ar\nd aft] x4 ,sid5ote3 ,sp9n+ ,!re is v little diff]5ce betwe5 ?is la/ draw+ op]ation & ! actual sp9n+ :i* imm$iately succe$s x4 ,9 bo? cases ! y>n is unw\nd f horizontal spools plac$ at ! top ( ! frame ?r\gh ! inevitable two roll]s go+ at diff]5t spe$s1 & guid$ on to ! revolv+ sp9dle4 ,s9ce ! sp9dle revolves v]tically ! y>n is twi/$4 ,! am\nt ( twi/ is regulat$1 z is also ! am\nt ( t5sion1 & ^! two factors1 toge!r ) ! quality ( ! mat]ial1 det]m9e ! quality ( ! y>n4 ,wor/$ y>n is grad$ accord+ to ! numb] ( c\nts1 :i*1 z we h se51 is ! numb] ( hanks ( #efj y>ds t make a p\nd avoirdupois4 ,illu/ration3 ,draw+ ,sid5ote3 ,fly] ,sid5ote3 ,cap ,sid5ote3 ,r+ ,r\ghly speak+1 !re are ?ree mod]n me?ods ( sp9n+1 namely1 ! fly]1 cap1 & r+ frames4 ,all ( !m are d]iv$ f ,arkwright's orig9al wat] ?ro/le1 &1 if we want to g fur!r back1 f ! old-fa%ion$ sp9n+ :eel4 ,! *ief diff]5ce betwe5 ! ?ree types lies 9 ! me?od ( driv+ ! sp9dle & guid+ ! y>n on to ! bobb94 ,! fly] arm we h describ$ briefly above4 ,9 ! cap sy/em1 ! bobb9 is mov$ up & d[n 9 a fix$ metal cap1 some?+ l ! front end ( a two-in* %ell-cas+1 & ?is me?od ( guid+ ! y>n has ! advantage t1 because ( its l[] vibration1 ! sp9dles may be driv5 fa/]4 ,x also causes consid]ably m friction on ! y>n4 ,= wor/$ sp9n+ x is probably ! mo/ commonly employ$4 ,r+ sp9n+1 ! mo/ frequ5tly us$ = cotton1 & describ$ briefly on page #bh1 is v simil> 7to ! layman7 except t ! sp9dle revolves 9 a metal sleeve1 & t ! y>n is guid$ by a metal r+ ) a travell]1 in/ead ( by ! end ( ! cap4 ,illu/ration3 ,r$uc+ ,sid5ote3 ,twi/+ ,:at foll[s n[ is m]ely an auxili>y process ( sp9n+4 ,! y>n has be5 complet$1 b x is r>ely us$ = weav+1 z x comes (f ! sp9dle4 ,sev]al /r&s are usually twi/$ toge!r1 bo? to make x /rong] & to give v>i\s effects ( body & color4 ,! numb] ( /r&s 9 a y>n are designat$ z plys4 ,y>n consi/+ ( two /r&s is call$ two-ply1 ?ree /r&s are ?ree-ply1 & s on4 ,y>ns ( two or m colors1 or y>ns ( v>y+ c\nts1 are frequ5tly twi/$ toge!r4 ,x is possible also to twi/ wor/$ & cotton y>ns4 ,illu/ration3 ,cap sp9n+ ,sid5ote3 ,sp9dlage ,twi/+ is done 9 a mann] simil> to sp9n+4 ,a wor/$ sp9n+ mill usually has ab\t a ?ird z _m twi/+ sp9dles z sp9n+ sp9dles1 b x is important to rememb] t :5 speak+ ( a mill's capacity 9 t]ms ( sp9dles1 x is only ! sp9n+ sp9dles t are c\nt$4 ,sid5ote3 ,w9d+ or ,ske9+ ,aft] ! twi/+ is complet$ ! f9i%$ y>n is w\nd on small spools1 kn[n z *ees]s1 to be weigh$4 ,next x is w\nd on l>ge spools 9 su* a way t ! l>ge spool holds ! cont5ts ( f t5 to tw5ty *ees]s1 ea* w\nd 9 an adjac5t space at ! same "t4 ,"s ( ! y>n is %ipp$ to weav+ mills on ^! l>ge spools2 & "s ( x is tak5 (f !m & ske9$4 ,sid5ote3 ,wa/e ,we are n[ ready to weave ! clo?1 b !re are a consid]able numb] ( v int]e/+ details :i* we h be5 =c$ to omit4 ,all ! processes we h discuss$ produce a c]ta9 am\nt ( wa/e mat]ial4 ,! comb+ wa/e1 kn[n z noils1 is ! l>ge/ by-product ( ! wor/$ indu/ry1 b !re is also a consid]able am\nt ( y>n wa/e produc$ 9 ! v>i\s draw+ & sp9n+ op]ations4 ,practically all ( ?is mat]ial f9ds its way back1 9 "o =m or ano!r1 into ! wool5 indu/ry4 ,! subject ( reclaim+ wa/e is 9 itself s compreh5sive t we c d no m ?an t\* ^u x "h4 #f4 ,,dye+ ,sid5ote3 ,wool & ,piece & ,d\ble ,dye+ ,"s y>ns are dy$ aft] !y h be5 spun4 ,9 mo/ cases1 h[ev]1 wool5 y>ns receive _! color aft] ! wool is sc\r$ & be=e x goes into ! c>d+ ma*9e4 ,9 wor/$ manufacture ! common proc$ure is to dye ! top aft] x has be5 comb$4 ,9 ?is way a uni=m color is obta9$1 :]eas x is exce$+ly difficult to obta9 ! same color f two vats 9 piece-dye+4 ,"s mat]ials are bo? wool & piece-dy$1 ! second dye be+ giv5 to ! clo?4 ,?is is done 9 cases :]e a peculi>ly fa/ color is desir$1 or :]e ! clo? conta9s sep>ate mat]ials su* z wool & cotton4 ,! op]ation ( ! loom has already be5 describ$ 9 connection ) ! manufacture ( cotton1 b ! prep>atory processes1 al?\gh some:at simil>1 v>y consid]ably because ( ! diff]5ce 9 ! nature ( ! mat]ials4 ,9 wor/$ manufacture ! "w :i* has to be done be=e ! loom c beg9 to op]ate is usually ref]r$ to z loom-m\nt+1 & consi/s ( five /ages4 ,sid5ote3 ,w>p+ #a4 ,w>p+ is ! arrang+ ( ! w>p ?reads 9 ! ord] necess>y to produce ! desir$ clo?4 ,?is 0 =m]ly1 & /ill is to a great ext5t1 done entirely by h& on a sort ( rack kn[n z ! wo(4 ,9 ! l>g] mills1 h[ev]1 w>p+ is n[ done ei!r on a sectional w>p+ ma*9e or on ! w>p+ mill4 ,bo? ^! devices are only p>tly automatic1 & require highly-skill$ labor4 ,sid5ote3 ,siz+ #b4 ,! me*anical /ructure ( wool5 or wor/$ y>ns necessitates ! application ( "s glut9\s sub/ance to _! surfaces be=e subject+ !m to ! weav+ process4 ,no matt] h[ ev5 ! wor/$ y>n1 a microscopic exam9ation w\ld %[ c]ta9 fibres protrud+ f ! surface4 ,siz+ has ! effect ( smoo?+ ! surface ( ! y>n1 & at ! same "t di/ribut+ m ev5ly ! /ra9 ( weav+4 ,! siz+ ma*9e is r l ! back-wa%] us$ 9 ! manufactur+ ( wor/$ y>n4 ,! w>p is run ?r\gh ! siz+ ba? & !n compress$ betwe5 roll]s1 aft] :i* x is dri$ by /eam or fan4 ,sid5ote3 ,beam+ #c4 ,beam+ is ! t]m appli$ to w9d+ ! w>p ^u ! beam ( ! loom4 7,! beam is ! roll] f :i* ! w>p ?reads are unw\nd z ! weav+ progresses47 ,9 ord] to keep ! ?reads 9 _! prop] position an in/rum5t kn[n z a raddle is employ$1 & ! raddl+ process is "o :i* requires consid]able c>e4 ,illu/ration3 ,draw+ 9 ! w>p ?reads ,sid5ote3 ,heald+ #d4 ,! next /ep1 heald+1 is ! same z t describ$ on page #cd & enables ! w>p ?reads to be lift$ 9 sections 9 ord] t ! %uttle may pass "u "s & ov] o!rs4 ,f ! orig9al weave ( lift+ alt]nate ?reads1 a great _m complicat$ designs h be5 evolv$1 :i* necessitate ! lift+ ( ! w>p ?reads 9 _m small s]ies4 ,9 ! elem5t>y weave :]e !re are only two gr\ps1 ?is "w is done by heald-wires :i* raise ! odd & depress ! ev5 ?reads1 ?us =m+ a ,v1 kn[n z ! %$1 ?r\gh :i* ! %uttle may pass4 ,z ! design becomes m intricate ! heald+ process becomes m complicat$1 & ! numb] ( heald %afts increases4 ,sid5ote3 ,sley+ #e4 ,sley+1 or re$+1 is ! f9al prep>atory process1 & has ! object ( keep+ ! w>p ?reads ! prop] di/ance ap>t dur+ weav+4 ,! sley is really no?+ m ?an a f9e comb ) a /rip across ! ends ( ! tee?4 ,! w>p ?reads are pass$ betwe5 ! wires 7re$s7 ( ! sley & are s compell$ to keep _! prop] position4 ,illu/ration3 ,weav+ ,! sley is atta*$ to ! batt51 or fly1 & z 9 ! cotton loom p]=ms ! additional function ( driv+ home ea* weft ?read aft] ! %uttle has pass$4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,p[] ,loom ,once ^! processes h be5 complet$ ! rema9d] is almo/ entirely automatic4 ,! %uttle flies back & =? )\t aid4 ,! prop] w>p ?reads are rais$ & l[]$ to let x pass1 & aft] ea* trav]se1 or pick1 ! batt5 automatically drives home ! weft ?read1 into ! gr[+ /ret* ( clo? t is w9d+ itself up on to ! beam at "o end1 :ile ! beam at ! o!r end deliv]s ! p>allel w>p ?reads4 ,! av]age wor/$ loom makes ab\t #ajj picks p] m9ute1 :i* is only ab\t half z fa/ z ! calico loom1 ! reason be+ ! l[] t5sile /r5g? ( ! y>n4 #h4 ,,wor/$ ,,f9i%+ ,:ile1 z we %all see1 f9i%+ 9 ! wool5 indu/ry is a v important /age ( manufacture1 wor/$ mat]ials are practically un*ang$ aft] !y come out ( ! loom4 ,!re is sometimes a c]ta9 am\nt ( full+ & rais+ & cropp+1 b ! net result does n 9 any way alt] ! clo?1 except p]haps to imp>t a little smoo!r f9i%4 ,we %all discuss f9i%+ 9 a little m detail :5 we come to ! la/ /age ( wool5 manufacture4 ,our wor/$ clo? is n[ f9i%$1 & we h trac$ its orig91 some:at sket*ily1 f ! back ( ! %eep up to ! po9t :]e x takes only a tailor to put x on ! back ( a man4 ,,*apt] ,,iii ,,wool5 ,,manufacture #a4 ,,! ,,manufacture ,,( ,,wool5 ,,y>n ,we h tak5 ! wor/$ indu/ry fir/1 n because x is necess>ily any m important ?an wool5 manufacture1 b because its processes are m complicat$1 & !re=1 if we h ga9$ a c]ta9 am\nt ( famili>ity ) !m1 we are able to take up ! si/] indu/ry 9 a m abbreviat$ mann]4 ,al?\gh1 at ! pres5t "t1 ! dem& = wor/$ mat]ials is a great deal heavi] ?an ! dem& = wool5s1 ! wool5 indu/ry is by f> ! old] ( ! two1 & may rightfully claim t ! wor/$ bran* is really an (f-%oot ( its tree4 ,moreov]1 :ile broadclo? & simil> mat]ial no long] enjoy _! er/:ile popul>ity1 !re is /ill a trem5d\s dem& = o!r products ( ! wool5 indu/ry su* z blankets1 flannels1 ov]coat+s1 etc4 ,& we mu/ be> 9 m9d t mo/ ( ! *eap] clo?+ mat]ials are wool5s4 ,sid5ote3 ,raw ,mat]ial ,9 ! sort+ ( wool we saw t ! %ort] /aples 7 class$ z clo?+ wools4 ,to ^! mu/ be add$ ! noils f wor/$ comb+1 y>n wa/e1 & wool reclaim$ f (f-sorts1 z well z wool extract made f rags1 be=e we h ! raw mat]ial = ! wool5 indu/ry4 ,sid5ote3 ,sc\r+ ,:]eas we f\nd t comb+ wool _h to be left 9 ! grease until x c\ld be c>d$ imm$iately aft] sc\r+1 ! mak] ( wool5 y>n w buy wool t has be5 sc\r$ mon?s be=e4 ,mo/ ( ! wool t is sc\r$ by or ne> ! gr[]s f9ds its way into ! wool5 indu/ry = ?is reason4 ,! sc\r+ giv5 to clo?+ wool v>ies only 9 t x is m viol5t ?an t giv5 to comb+ wool1 & 9 t x is frequ5tly augm5t$ by c>bonization to remove vegetable matt]4 ,illu/ration3 ,mule ,sp9n+ ,sid5ote3 ,bl5d+ ,! fir/ process aft] sc\r+ is bl5d+4 ,:5 ! desir$ mixture ( v>i\s grades1 k9ds1 & colors ( wool1 wool extract1 or cotton has be5 effect$1 ! result+ het]og5e\s mass is put ?r\gh ! fir/ ( sev]al c>d+ processes4 ,sid5ote3 ,fibres n p>allel z 9 ,wor/$ ,f n[ on ! desire ( ! wool5 y>n manufactur] is diametrically oppos$ to t ( ! wor/$ comb]4 ,he wants to op5 out ! fibres1 b he wants !m to lie 9 all directions4 ,he does n want uni=mity4 ,he wants j ! opposite4 ,8 y>n mu/ h a c]ta9 am\nt ( /r5g?1 b x mu/ h1 fir/ ( all1 felt+ prop]ties1 s t :5 ! clo? is f9i%$ ! v>i\s ?reads w m]ge & int]lock4 ,z might be expect$1 !re=e1 ! c>d+ process is v mu* m viol5t4 ,sid5ote3 ,c>d+ ,sid5ote3 ,cond5s] ,! bl5d is fir/ put ?r\gh a fe>n\ght :i* might be describ$ briefly z ! mo/ pitiless memb] ( ! c>d family4 ,x is also kn[n z a t5t]-hook-willy1 f ! rev]s$ position ( its tee?4 ,f ?is ma*9e ! wool goes ?r\gh ! c>d prop]1 :i* is simil> to ! wor/$ c>d except t ! roll]s g 9 opposite directions1 in/ead ( 9 ! same directions4 ,"h1 aga91 ! d(f] lifts ! wool (f 9 a cont9u\s filmy %eet & deliv]s x to ! cond5s]4 ,! %eet is n simply drawn ?r\gh a funnel into a s+le ?ick sliv]1 b is =c$ betwe5 roll]s into two lea!r rubb+ aprons :i* by pressure & friction r$uce x to a s]ies ( small s(t flabby sliv]s1 hav+ j en\gh adhesiv5ess to p]mit ( mule sp9n+4 ,illu/ration3 ,burl+ & m5d+ ,! fibres 9 ^! sliv]s may be ( all l5g?s & degrees ( f95ess1 & !y lie 9 all directions4 ,!re are n[ no elaborate draw+ or comb+ processes4 ,all t rema9s to be done be=e we h a weavable wool5 y>n is a c]ta9 am\nt ( twi/+ & att5uation4 ,bo? ^! results are obta9$ at once 9 ! mule4 ,sid5ote3 ,mule ,sp9n+ ,9 a wool5 mule ! spools ( sliv] are plac$ 9 a fix$ frame1 & ! sliv] passes betwe5 a pair ( roll]s to ! sp9dles4 ,^! /&1 slightly incl9$ backw>ds1 9 a long r[ ^u ! movable c>riage4 ,at fir/ ! sp9dle tips are close to ! roll]s4 ,! sliv] is paid out1 & at ! same "t ! c>riage be>+ ! revolv+ sp9dles retreats4 ,dur+ ?is "t no y>n is w\nd on ! bobb9s1 b ! sliv]s are be+ twi/$4 ,!n ! roll]s cease to pay out sliv]1 ! c>riage moves out a little fur!r1 & ! sp9dles rotate fa/]1 s t ! y>n is be+ twi/$ & /ret*$4 ,:5 suffici5t twi/ has be5 imp>t$ ! c>riage moves back aga9 & ! sp9dles w9d up ! twi/$ y>n on to ! bobb9s4 ,?is1 briefly1 is ! op]ation ( ! mule4 ,!re are a great _m intricate devices 9 ?is ma*9e :i* des]ve att5tion1 b :i* h>dly fall )9 our scope4 ,all t rema9s n[ is to w9d ! y>n on spools1 or ske9 x1 be=e x is ready = ! weav]4 #b4 ,,! ,,manufacture ,,( ,,wool5 ,,clo? ,sid5ote3 ,weav+ ,!re are _m diff]5ces betwe5 weav+ wor/$s & wool5s1 b = our purposes we may consid] ! process ! same1 z 9 a g5]al way x is4 ,"s clo?s are wov5 ) a cotton w>p & a wool5 y>n fill+1 ! w>p be+ c>efully conceal$4 ,wool5 clo?s are m frequ5tly wov5 ) a back+ ?an wor/$s4 ,?is means t ei!r !re is a d\ble w>p1 a d\ble weft1 or bo?4 ,! object ( back+ is usually to add /r5g? & w>m? to ! mat]ial1 & ! l[] side is !re=e (t5 wov5 ( co>s] y>n4 ,9 "s cases1 h[ev]1 notably 9 travell+ rugs1 ! back+ may be j z elaborate z ! face1 & ?is necessitates a r intricate m\nt+ process4 ,sid5ote3 ,c>pets ,c>pet weav+ is "o ( ! l>ge bran*es ( ! wool5 indu/ry1 & = ?is purpose ! co>se/ & longe/ fibr$ wools 7common1 braid1 & c>pet wools7 are usually employ$4 ,^! wools readily l5d !mselves to ! manufacture ( a co>se ?ick y>n1 :i* 9 turn produces a ?ick1 durable mat]ial4 ,! ?ickness ( a c>pet is kn[n z ! pile4 ,sid5ote3 ,f9i%+ ,important 9 ,wool5s ,:]eas we saw t ! wor/$ clo? 0 practically f9i%$ :5 x left ! loom1 ?is is n ! case ) wool5s4 ,(t5times x w\ld tax an exp]t to id5tify ! f9i%$ goods ) ! loose & altoge!r diff]5t mat]ial produc$ by ! weav]4 ,"s f9e wool5s1 x is true1 are sc>cely alt]$ m ?an wor/$s1 b 9 mo/ cases ! f9i%+ op]ations are 9 ?is indu/ry a major r ?an a subsidi>y /age ( manufacture4 ,! read] may h be5 puzzl$ at ! div]g5t l9es along :i* wool5 & wor/$ y>ns are manufactur$1 & at a loss to acc\nt = ! reasons4 ,! cause is precisely ?is1 t ! wor/$ manufactur] aims to produce a clo? t is complet$ :5 wov51 :ile ! wool5 mak] wants 8 loom to turn out a mat]ial t w readily adopt a great v>iety ( f9i%es4 ,sid5ote3 ,burl+ ,! fir/ f9i%+ op]ation1 :i* applies also to wor/$s1 is ! exam9ation ( ! piece = imp]fections & ! remov+ ( !m by h&4 ,! piece is !n sc\r$ to get rid ( dirt1 &1 :]e ! f9i% is complicat$1 ?is may be repeat$ sev]al times4 ,illu/ration3 ,full+ ,sid5ote3 ,full+ ,full+1 ! next & v important process1 consi/s 9 pass+ ! mat]ial ?r\gh clos$ or p>tially enclos$ boxes1 9 :i* ! clo? is run ?r\gh soap solutions & !n =c$ ?r\gh roll]s4 ,! result ( full+ is to %r9k ! mat]ial & give m body to x4 ,x is *iefly 9 ord] to be able to d ?is t ! mak] ( wool5s wants ! fibres 9 8 y>n to lie criss-cross1 s t 9 ! full+ mill _! s]rat$ edges w felt & int]lock ) ea* o!r4 ,! am\nt ( full+ done dep5ds ^u ! %r9kage desir$4 ,x is possible to r$uce ! size ( ! clo? by half 9 ?is process4 ,"s wor/$s are slightly full$1 b 9 _! case x simply s]ves to add a little body to ! clo?1 )\t 9 any way sacrific+ ! design ( ! weav+4 ,long be=e ! inv5tion ( ev5 ! e>lie/ automatic textile ma*9]y !re 7 great numb]s ( wat]-driv5 full+ mills1 9 :i* ! wool5 clo? 0 p\nd$ 9 full]'s e>? by wood5 hamm]s4 ,9 ^? days ! clo? 0 felt$ into a /iff ?ick mass :i* w\ld resi/ we> almo/ indef9itely1 b :i* w\ld h>dly adapt itself to ! requirem5ts ( mod]n tailor+4 ,illu/ration3 ,/eam+ ,sid5ote3 ,rais+ ,sid5ote3 ,cropp+ ,sid5ote3 ,press+ ,! full$ piece is next made to revolve on a l>ge drum set ) teazle-heads4 ,! object ( ?is proc$ure is to op5 out ! fibres1 & ! process is kn[n z rais+4 ,9 wor/$s & fancy wool5s1 su* z tr\s]+s1 rais+ is really no?+ m ?an ! bru%+ up ( ! loose fibres s t !y may be cropp$ (f1 mu* z grass is cut on a lawn4 ,?is w ( c\rse h ! effect ( %[+ up ! weave v pla9ly4 ,9 mo/ wool5s1 h[ev]1 ! clo? is rais$ wet1 & ! teazle motion is m viol5t1 s t ! entire surface is cov]$ ) a ?ick nap ( bru%$ up fibres :i* entirely conceal ! weave4 ,?is is (t5 v desirable :]e co>se back+ ?reads are to be hidd51 or :]e1 = o!r reasons1 a ?ick nap is desir$1 z = in/ance 9 r\gh ov]coat+s4 ,!re may be sev]al rais+s & cropp+s1 betwe5 :i* ! mat]ial is boil$ & press$1 all dep5d+ on ! "* ( ! face t is desir$4 ,9 "s clo?s ! f9i%+ processes are exce$+ly complicat$1 p>ticul>ly :]e a smoo? f9i% su* z doesk9 is s\ght4 ,! v>iety ( f9i%es is inf9ite & new ones are con/antly be+ inv5t$1 _m ( :i* are closely gu>d$ trade secrets4 ,9 mo/ cases press+ completes ! process4 ,illu/ration3 ,cropp+ ,we h n[ foll[$ bo? ! comb+ & ! clo?+ wools ?r\gh ! process ( manufacture into wor/$ & wool5 y>ns & clo?s4 ,aga91 let u emphasize t ! relative am\nt ( space devot$ "h to ! two indu/ries is gov]n$1 n by _! comp>ative importance1 b by :at appe>$ to be ! mo/ concise me?od ( approa*4 ,_m details1 :i* loom up z trem5d\s problems to ! manufactur]1 h necess>ily be5 treat$ "h ) scant respect1 & o!rs h n ev5 be5 m5tion$4 #c4 ,,mohair ,,& ,,alpaca ,sid5ote3 ,mohair ,!re are two mat]ials ^u :i* we h n t\*$ at all1 al?\gh !y are g5]ally includ$ 9 wool manufacture4 ,mohair is ! hair ( ! ,angora goat1 & has _m *>act]i/ics ( bo? hair & ,mohair wool4 ,^! animals are native to ,asia ,m9or1 b are n[ ext5sively rais$ 9 o!r p>ts ( ! _w1 notably 9 ,africa & 9 ?is c\ntry4 ,! hair av]ages ab\t f\r in*es 9 l5g?1 al?\gh x frequ5tly gr[s mu* long]1 is v smoo? & f9e1 has consid]able t5sile /r5g?1 l[ ela/icity1 & practically no felt+ prop]ty4 ,x is us$ prim>ily 9 ! manufacture ( plu%1 su* z is us$ 9 railroad c>riages1 & makes v durable mat]ial4 ,x is also wov5 into ,palm ,bea* clo?1 or mix$ ) wor/$ or cotton y>ns 9 su* fabrics z automobile tops4 ,sid5ote3 ,alpaca ,alpaca is a simil> fibre1 obta9$ f an animal native to ,bolivia & ,p]u4 ,! fibre is f9] ?an mohair1 & a little m l wool4 ,x comes 9 ?ree natural colors2 :ite1 br[n1 & black1 all ( :i* are f\nd on ! same fleece4 ,alpaca is bo? light & s(t1 & !re=e l5ds itself admirably to ! manufacture ( ?9 l9+s4 #d4 ,,knitt+ ,,& ,,felt ,,manufacture ,sid5ote3 ,/ock9ette ,frame ,:]eas mo/ wool y>n is wov5 into clo?1 !re is also ! knitt+ process1 9 :i* ! individual ?reads are int]lac$ into a regul> fabric )\t w>p & weft /ructure4 ,! "w is p]=m$ on a sort ( loom1 call$ ! /ock9ette frame1 ^u :i* ! y>ns are arrang$ 9 p>allel ord] & uni=m di/ances ap>t4 ,! actual knitt+ closely resembles h& knitt+1 & is done entirely by automatic me*anism4 ,a ma*9e ( ?is sort is capable ( turn+ out a great l5g? ( mat]ial 9 a %ort "t1 & ! fabric has ! f9e ribb$ "* se5 9 ord9>y knitt$ goods4 ,! article is s(t1 full1 & ela/ic1 b lacks ! /r5g? & firmness ( wov5 fabrics4 ,/ock9ette clo?s1 sweat]s1 "s und]we>1 & hosi]y are products ( ! knitt+ ma*9e1 & ! knitt+ mills are important consum]s ( noils & l[-grade wools4 ,sid5ote3 ,felt ,besides be+ made into y>n1 & wov5 or knit into goods1 wool is also compress$ into felts ( v>i\s k9ds4 ,space un=tunately is lack+ = ! consid]ation ( ?is subject "h1 al?\gh a consid]able quantity ( wool goes into felt manufacture4 ,,*apt] ,,iv ,,! ,,economic ,,aspect #a4 ,,f9ancial ,,risks ,be>+ 9 m9d ! indu/rial /ructure we h j outl9$1 x might be well = u to glance briefly at its f9ancial scaffold+4 ,f ! bank]'s po9t ( view !re are _m features :i* are di/9ctive ( ! wool trade1 & :i* ex]cise an important be>+ ^u ! judgm5t ( a cr$it risk4 ,sid5ote3 ,%eep ,banks ,sid5ote3 ,%eep ,risks ,to beg9 ) ! gr[]1 we f9d "h t 9 _m in/ances ! l>ge rais]s ( %eep h built up _! own banks4 ,9 ,texas1 = in/ance1 !re are a consid]able numb] ( banks ^: *ief bus9ess consi/s 9 f9anc+ ! wool clips ( _! sections4 ,on ! o!r extreme we h ! small gr[] ( ! ,ea/1 :o is frequ5tly at ! m]cy ( ! local /ore-keep]4 ,:]e wool gr[+ is practis$ on a l>ge scale 9 ?is c\ntry ! t5d5cy is m & m to r$uce ! bus9ess to a sci5tifically /&>diz$ scale1 9 su* a mann] z is preval5t 9 ,au/ralia4 ,! m ?is is done ! m indep5d5t ! gr[] becomes1 & ! easi] x is = a bank to det]m9e ! /r5g? ( ! individual risk4 ,! %eep rais] has ( c\rse "o prim>y asset1 8 flocks2 & if he is compell$ to borr[1 ! security beh9d 8 note re/s ^u 8 %eep4 ,9 mak+ a loan to a %eep man a bank has to consid] n only ! m>ket value ( ! animals1 b ! conditions "u :i* !y are be+ rais$4 ,%eep are affect$ by dr\ghts1 = in/ance1 & _m flocks h be5 ravag$ by pr$atory animals1 or decimat$ by disease4 ,any "o ( ^! cont+5cies may at any mom5t de/roy or depreciate ! bank's collat]al1 & = ?is reason borr[+ ( ?is sort is conf9$ v l>gely to banks situat$ 9 %eep-gr[+ sections :i* specialize 9 ?is =m ( loan4 ,sid5ote3 ,gr[]'s ,co/ ,x w\ld be ( great int]e/ to figure ! av]age co/ ( production p] p\nd ( wool to ! gr[]1 b1 ) ! v>y+ conditions enc\nt]$ 9 diff]5t p>ts ( ! c\ntry & ) sundry bre$s1 an accurate e/imate c h>dly be arriv$ at4 ,ev5 ! co/ ( %e>+ is v>i\sly figur$ f t5 to ne>ly ?irty c5ts4 ,g5]ally speak+1 h[ev]1 ! gr[] ne$s v little f9ancial assi/ance1 because he is able to sell 8 entire clip = ca%4 ,! buy]s repres5t+ m]*ants--or 9 a few cases1 mills--are prep>$ to pay ca% = _! wool1 & 9 "s cases :]e !y feel sure ( a ris+ m>ket1 (t5 g s f> z to buy ! wool on ! %eep's back be=e x is %orn4 ,provid$ ! gr[] kn[s some?+ ab\t wool1 & ! exi/+ dem&1 !re is no reason :y1 f ! proce$s ( "o clip1 he %\ld n be able to meet 8 co/s up to ! "t ( ! next %e>+4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,m]*ant ,! m]*ant is up aga9/ a v diff]5t proposition4 ,z we h se51 he buys = ca%1 & n only sells on cr$it1 b c>ries a l>ge proportion ( :at he buys = sev]al mon?s1 be=e he c dispose ( x4 ,!re are s _m k9ds ( wool m]*ants t x is almo/ impossible to make any g5]al obs]vations4 ,"o m]*ant1 = example1 may specialize entirely 9 dome/ic wools2 9 t case he w\ld d all 8 buy+ 9 ! spr+ mon?s & w\ld gradually dispose ( 8 mat]ial1 hav+ fir/ grad$ x1 dur+ ! rema9d] ( ! ye>4 ,ano!r h\se might d ! bulk ( its bus9ess 9 ,s\? ,am]ican wools1 :i* w\ld mean a fall pur*as+ season4 ,/ill ano!r w\ld h&le bo? dome/ic & ,s\? ,am]ican1 & a f\r? might import f all p>ts ( ! _w1 s t buy+ & sell+ w\ld be go+ on cont9u\sly & at ! same "t ?r\gh\t ! ye>4 ,! cr$it requirem5ts ( ! fir/ two h\ses w\ld be an easi] dem& ^u ! bank ?an ^? ( ! latt]1 b 9 all cases ! judg+ ( ! risk involves c]ta9 prim>y consid]ations1 ea* ( :i* really necessitates ! close /udy ( ! individual case4 ,sid5ote3 ,cr$it ,risks ,a wool m]*ant's bus9ess is l>gely bas$ on 8 e/imate ( ! future4 ,!re are no 8future0 m>kets = wool z !re are = cotton & silk1 & ! wool deal] _c !re=e protect himself by h$g+4 ,7 x n = ! fact t he assumes a risk :i* nei!r ! gr[] nor1 9 mo/ cases1 ! manufactur] is able to take1 he c\ld n ma9ta9 8 position z ! middleman4 ,! m]*ant's buy] mu/1 z we h se51 be able to judge ! am\nt ( %r9kage )9 a v small fraction1 he mu/ "k ! dem& = ea* quality ( wool s t he may be sure n to pay m ?an he c sell =1 &1 :at is m1 he mu/ be able to =eca/ ! future ) a c]ta9 am\nt ( accuracy 9 ord] to make 8 pr(it4 ,fur!rmore1 ! m]*ant mu/ be con/antly on 8 gu>d aga9/ do+ m bus9ess ?an 8 capital w>rants1 :ile at ! same "t1 unless he makes e doll> "w1 8 bus9ess w 9 normal times fail to %[ him a pr(it4 ,sid5ote3 ,m]*ant ,manufactur]s ,"s wool deal]s h become consid]ably m ?an middlem51 & h gone q ext5sively into ! fir/ /ages ( manufacture4 ,?is is p>ticul>ly true ( "s ( ! l>ge h\ses :i* ( rec5t ye>s h e/abli%$ top manufactur+ dep>tm5ts1 & :i* !re=e sell a l>ge proportion ( _! goods n z raw wool b z tops & noil4 ,sid5ote3 ,brok]s ,al?\gh ! deal]s d ! bulk ( ! commission "w 9 consignm5t sales1 !re are a great numb] ( brok]s ^: function is prim>ily ! buy+ & sell+ = acc\nt ( o!rs4 ,^! h\ses usually op]ate ) a limit$ capital1 & are n ext5sive seek]s ( cr$it4 ,sid5ote3 ,mills ,s f> z ! manufactur]s1 or mills ( v>i\s sorts1 are conc]n$1 !re is "o /rik+ diff]5ce ab\t ! pap] ( wool5 & wor/$ mills z aga9/ cotton mill notes :i* appe> 9 ! op5 m>ket2 cotton mill pap]1 except 9 ! case ( ! /ronge/ mills1 usually be>s ! endorsem5t ( ! commission h\se :i* sells ! mill's product1 b ?is is n z a rule ! case ) wool5 & wor/$ mill pap]4 ,! reason is t a l>ge numb] ( ! wool manufactur+ e/abli%m5ts sell direct to :olesal]s & jobb]s1 & h no close affiliation ) a sell+-h\se4 ,sid5ote3 ,trade ,t]ms ,trade t]ms v>y a good deal4 ,raw wool is almo/ inv>iably sold = ca% by ! gr[]4 ,deal]s make v>i\s t]ms to mills1 ! mo/ usual be+ #a t5 days1 sixty days net4 ,! t]ms on :i* mills sell to jobb]s also h a wide range2 "s sell ?irty days net1 "s #aj ?irty days1 o!rs #g f\r mon?s4 #b4 ,,dem& ,,& ,,supply ,%eep rais+ is1 z we h se51 *iefly c>ri$ on on ! bord]l9es ( civilization4 ,z civiliz$ life encroa*es ^u ! pa/ure l&s ! flocks are driv5 gradually fur!r & fur!r into hi!rto un9habit$ regions4 ,! population ( ! _w is /eadily increas+1 & ! available graz+ acres are con/antly be+ r$uc$ z ! _w becomes m ?ickly populat$4 ,also1 z ! population increases1 ! dem& = clo?+ & food increases1 s t1 on ! face ( x1 x w\ld seem t ! production ( wool w\ld decrease :ile ! dem& grew con/antly l>g]4 ,9 a measure ?is is true2 b !re are sev]al factors :i* t5d to arre/ ?is ,mal?usian spectre4 ,9 ! fir/ place1 !re are /ill va/ areas ( des]t l& :i* c be reclaim$ = graz+ purposes4 ,9 ! second place ! gr[+ ( wool 9 mo/ c\ntries is z yet practic$ on a v crude & consequ5tly uneconomical scale4 ,&1 f9ally1 ! use ( %oddy & wool rega9$ f rags1 has only begun to be develop$4 ,nor is x true t %eep mu/ necess>ily be rais$ 9 uncultivat$ regions2 ,engl&1 ) h] closely settl$ soil1 supports ab\t ?ree-fif?s z _m %eep z ! ,unit$ ,/ates1 on an area ( only #aba1cgg squ>e miles1 z aga9/ ! #c1jbf1ghi squ>e miles 9 ?is c\ntry4 ,! _w's total output ( wool 9 #aiba is e/imat$ at ?ree billion1 ?ree million p\nds1 z aga9/ two billion1 eight hundr$ & n9ety-f\r million p\nds 9 #aiah4 ,! production ( ! #aiba crop 0 divid$ z foll[s3 ,europe #hii million p\nds1 ,au/ralia #gah million p\nds1 ,s\? ,am]ica #eib million p\nds1 ,asia #cbg million p\nds1 ,nor? ,am]ica #bih million p\nds1 ,africa #afi million p\nds4 ,! foll[+ table w %[ ! am\nt ( wool produc$ & import$ 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates betwe5 ! ye>s ( #ahig & #aibb3 ,,wool ,,product ,,( ,,! ,,unit$ ,,/ates ,sid5ote3 ,u4 ,s4 ,product ,ye> ,p\nds #ahig #bei1aec1bea #ahih #bff1gbj1fhd #ahii #bgb1aia1ccj #aijj #bhh1fcf1fba #aija #cjb1ejb1chb #aijb #caf1cda1jcb #aijc #bhg1dej1jjj #aijd #bia1ghc1jcb #aije #bie1dhh1dch #aijf #bih1gae1acj #aijg #bih1bid1gej #aijh #caa1ach1cba #aiji #cbh1aaj1gdi #aiaj #cba1cfb1gej #aiaa #cah1edg1ijj #aiab #cjd1jdc1djj #aiac #bif1age1cjj #aiad #bij1aib1jjj #aiae #bhh1ggg1jjj #aiaf #bhh1dih1fjj #aiag #bhe1egc1jjj #aiah #bii1iba1jjj #aiai #bih1beh1jjj #aibj #bgg1ije1jjj #aiba #bgc1edf1jjj #aibb #bfa1jie1jjj ,,imports ,,( ,,wool ,,into ,,! ,,unit$ ,,/ates ,sid5ote3 ,u4 ,s4 ,imports ,ye> ,p\nds #ahig #cej1heb1jbf #ahih #acb1gie1cjb #ahii #gf1gcf1bji #aijj #aee1iah1dee #aija #ajc1ehc1eje #aijb #aff1egf1iff #aijc #agg1acg1gif #aijd #agc1gdb1hcd #aije #bdi1ace1gdf #aijf #bja1fhh1ffh #aijg #bjc1hdg1ede #aijh #abe1ihj1ebd #aiji #bff1dji1cjd #aiaj #bfc1ibh1bcb #aiaa #acg1fdg1fda #aiab #aic1djj1gac #aiac #aie1bic1bee #aiad #bdg1fdh1hfi #aiae #cjh1jhc1dbi #aiaf #ecd1hbh1jbb #aiag #cgb1cgb1bah #aiah #dbb1dad1ihe #aiai #dad1ejf1hia #aibj #dai1cid1bja #aiba #cad1fbd1bhh #aibb #bej1hdj1geb ,,! ,,int]national ,,acceptance ,,bank1 ,,inc4 ,,& ,,! ,,wool ,,trade ,,! ,,int]national ,,acceptance ,,bank1 ,,inc41 op5s comm]cial lett]s ( cr$it 9 ,s\? ,am]ica1 ,au/ralia1 & ,s\? ,africa = ! importation ( raw ,,wool4 ,x is p>ticul>ly well equipp$ to h&le ?is bus9ess because ( its intimate connection ) ,,! ,,fir/ ,,national ,,bank ,,( ,,bo/on1 :i* is n only ! lead+ wool bank ( ! c\ntry1 b also ma9ta9s a bran* 9 ,bu5os ,aires4 ,,! ,,fir/ ,,national ,,bank ,,( ,,bo/on is "o ( ! mo/ important /ockhold]s ( ,,! ,,int]national ,,acceptance ,,bank1 ,,inc4 ,by reason ( its hav+ z %>ehold]s ,messrs4 ,n4 ,m4 ,,ro?s*ild ,,sons & ,,! ,,national ,,prov9cial ,,bank ,,ltd41 ,,london1 z well z _m o!r correspond5ts 9 t city1 ,,! ,,int]national ,,acceptance ,,bank1 ,,inc41 is able to f9ance imports ( wool by means ( ,/]l+ cr$its z well z ?r\gh its own ,doll> facilities4 ,,"p ,,?ree ,,silk ,by ,,b5jam9 ,,/rong1 ,,jr4 ( ! ,,int]national ,,acceptance ,,bank1 ,,inc4 ,photographs by c\rtesy ( ,william ,sk9n] ,sons & ! ,key/one ,view ,co4 ,illu/ration3 ,pick+ ,mulb]ry ,leaves ,,*apt] ,i ,,! ,,raw ,,mat]ial #a4 ,,hi/ory ,sid5ote3 ,e>ly ,s]iculture ,silk owes its position z "o ( ! ?ree lead+ textiles to its qualities ( /r5g?1 ela/icity & beauty--9 :i* respects x surpasses all o!r fabrics4 ,its production dates f> into antiquity2 = c5turies ,*9a 0 ! seat ( ! indu/ry1 gu>d+ ! secret me?ods & processes ) ! utmo/ c>e4 ,dur+ ! six? & sev5? c5turies ,a4 ,d4 ! secret began to leak out & s]iculture gradually f\nd root 9 ! ,ne> ,ea/ & ! ,levant1 :5ce x spread to ,greece1 ,italy1 ,france & ,spa94 ,japan also took x up & develop$ x to a v high po9t4 ,sid5ote3 ,indu/ry 9 ,am]ica ,attempts to e/abli% ! indu/ry 9 ,am]ica h be5 g5]ally unsuccessful1 high co/s preclud+ ! possibility ( compet+ ) =eign conditions4 ,9 addition1 ! rais+ ( raw silk has be5 built up pr9cipally 9 c\ntries :]e !re is a sy/em ( home indu/ry--a social & indu/rial sy/em nev] develop$ 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates4 ,h[ev]1 al?\gh ,am]ica has nev] be5 a factor 9 ! produc+ ( ! raw mat]ial1 x has ris5 to a place ( utmo/ importance 9 ! manufacture ( ! f9i%$ textile4 ,imm5se quantities ( raw silk are import$ f abroad--pr9cipally ,japan1 ,italy1 & ,*9a--& its conv]sion into ! f9i%$ products con/itutes a mo/ important "p ( our indu/ry4 #b4 ,,! ,,silk ,,worm ,sid5ote3 ,names & ,types ( ,silk ,worms ,! textile fibre kn[n z silk is a filam5t secret$ by "o ( two g5]al types ( mo? l>v--! cultivat$ & ! wild4 ,! l>ge/ proportion is1 ( c\rse1 made up ( ! =m]1 produc$ by ! worm kn[n z ! ,bombyx mori1 :ile ! mo/ common type ( wild silk worm is call$ ! ,tussah4 ,! "n ,bombyx mori comes f ! "n ( ! family to :i* ! silk worm belongs3 ! ,bombycidoe 7sp9n]s71 & mori1 f ! morus multicaulis or mulb]ry tree1 on ! leaves ( :i* x fe$s4 ,! species ,s]ic>ia mori1 or silk worm ( ! mulb]ry1 belongs to ! g5]ic class ( ,lepidopt]a or scaly-w+$ insects4 ,sid5ote3 ,bombyx ,mori ,! ,bombyx mori1 ) :i* we are *iefly conc]n$1 is divid$ into o!r gr\ps accord+ to ! cycle ( reproduction4 ,! annuals reproduce once a ye>1 & sixty p] c5t ( ! silk worms belong to ?is class4 ,! bivolt9es reproduce twice a ye>1 & ! polyvolt9es1 sev]al times dur+ ! ye>1 ! fir/ crop be+ ! be/4 ,illu/ration3 ,full ,gr[n ,worms ,! /udy & developm5t ( ! v>i\s phases ?r\gh :i* ! silk worm passes1 lead+ up to its production ( ! actual filam5t1 h be5 a subject ( int5se rese>* 9 _m p>ts ( ! _w = a great numb] ( c5turies4 ,! pres5t silk worm is no?+ m ?an a highly specializ$ product ( a long tra9 ( artificial cultivation4 ,sid5ote3 ,/ages ( ,gr[? ,! cultivat$ silk worm passes ?r\gh f\r *anges 9 its life ( two mon?s1 i4e41 egg1 l>va1 *rysalis 7or pupa71 & adult--a cream-:ite mo? :i* is ab\t "o in* 9 l5g?4 ,! mo?s live only a few days1 dur+ :i* mat+ takes place1 & ! female lays sev]al hundr$ eggs2 aft] ab\t six mon?s ^! eggs hat* into worms4 ,! latt] pass ?r\gh :at are kn[n z f\r 8molts10 or %$d+ ( ! sk91 be=e ! worm matures1 sp9s its cocoon1 becomes a *rysalis1 & f9ally em]ges z a mo?4 ,?is1 v briefly1 is ! life hi/ory ( ! silk worm4 #c4 ,,mod]n ,,s]iculture ,sid5ote3 ,c\ntries ,produc+ ,raw ,silk ,silk rais+1 or s]iculture1 has be5 a lead+ indu/ry 9 ,japan & ,*9a = a great _m ye>s1 :ile ! ,ne> ,ea/ & su* c\ntries z ,france & ,italy h also play$ a "p 9 ! indu/ry--b to a less] degree4 ,a great deal ( ?is "w1 p>ticul>ly 9 ,japan & ,*9a1 has be5 c>ri$ on z a home indu/ry1 b ) ! gr[? ( mod]n bus9ess me?ods m & m ( ! silk rais+ has come into ! h&s ( companies op]at+ on a highly sci5tific basis4 ,illu/ration3 ,cocoon]y ,sid5ote3 ,japanese ,sup]vision ,aft] _m ye>s ( exp]i5ce & exp]im5tation ! bre$+ & c>e ( ! silk worm has be5 put on a v te*nical & closely regulat$ s*$ule t m9imizes ! *ances ( loss by wa/e or ! spread ( disease4 ,9 ,japan ! indu/ry has be5 enc\rag$ & fo/]$ by ! ,gov]nm5t2 a special division ( ! adm9i/ration is devot$ to its att5tion1 & num]\s organizations & associations conduct exp]im5tal /ations = rese>* & /udy4 ,9 fact s9ce ab\t ! middle ( ! #ai? c5tury ev]y?+ possible has be5 done to fo/] ?is highly pr(itable bran* ( ! c\ntry's indu/ry4 ,sid5ote3 ,mod]n ,me?ods ( ,cultivation ,sid5ote3 ,hat*+ ! ,eggs ,! m]e/ outl9e ( ! mod]n me?ods ( cultivation w %[ h[ highly !y h be5 develop$4 ,to beg9 )1 ! eggs are plac$ on %eets ( pap] or musl9 directly aft] !y are laid4 ,^! %eets are hung = a few days 9 a damp atmosph]e1 & !n plac$ 9 cold /orage = ab\t six mon?s1 ! p]iod ( cold be+ advantage\s = lat] hat*+1 :i* is done by heat4 ,sid5ote3 ,gr[? ( ! ,worms ,aft] hat*+1 ! worm %$s its sk9 f\r times4 ,! p]iods betwe5 ! 8molts10 or ages1 v>y ) diff]5t silk worms1 b ! total process takes ab\t a mon?4 ,worms ( diff]5t ages are always kept sep>ate1 be+ held on l>ge clo? trays :i* are c>ri$ 9 ti]s along ! walls ( ! re>+ rooms4 ,! cocoon]ies :]e be/ results are obta9$ are quiet1 spaci\s1 well-v5tilat$ rooms :]e an ev5 temp]ature c be ma9ta9$4 ,ea* worm is kept absolutely clean & has pl5ty ( room1 z ov]cr[d+ br+s disease4 ,z a precaution mild fumigation is resort$ to f "t to "t4 ,heavy odors or smoke ( any sort are n all[$1 z ^! are di/urb+ to ! worms4 ,sid5ote3 ,fe$+ ! ,worms ,sid5ote3 ,! ,mulb]ry ,tree ,n\ri%m5t is1 ( c\rse1 a v important item = ! gr[+ worms1 & ! be/ =m ( food = ! ,bombyx mori is ! leaf ( ! :ite mulb]ry1 :i* mu/ be "y1 fre% & dry1 b nev] )]$4 ,= ?is purpose mulb]ry tree rais+ has become an important by-indu/ry 9 itself4 ,?ree v>ieties are f\nd1 classifi$ accord+ to ! "t ( budd+--e>ly1 m$ium & late4 ,! leaves1 !re=e1 c be f\nd 9 ! correct condition = ! v>i\s /ages 9 ! gr[? ( ! worm4 ,! late budd+ trees are cultivat$ 9 m abundance1 z ! worms are l>g] at t "t & consume m leaves4 ,! soil 9 :i* ! trees gr[ is important1 z x has be5 f\nd t "o :i* is ri* 9 c]ta9 m9]als provides leaves t keep ! worms 9 bett] physical condition4 ,a cold w9t] foll[$ by a w>m spr+ develops ! leaves well1 & ! condition ( ! leaves is "o ( ! mo/ important factors 9 ! :ole process4 ,sid5ote3 ,e>ly ,developm5t ,c>eful selection ( ! eggs is ano!r matt] ( prime importance4 ,:5 ! leaves are almo/ ready1 ! eggs are br\ght out ( cold /orage & subject$ to heat = ab\t a mon? be=e !y hat* out4 ,:5 ! worm hat*es x is ab\t ! diamet] ( a hair & less ?an ?ree-f\r?s ( an in* long4 ,x gnaws a hole ?r\gh ! end ( ! egg f :i* x issues4 ,n\ri%m5t at fir/ is tak5 by suck+ ! sap ( ! leaves1 :i* are at ?is /age *opp$ into f9e pieces2 lat] ! leaves are consum$ )\t ! necessity ( _! be+ *opp$ up4 ,sid5ote3 ,sp9n+ ! ,cocoon ,! developm5t is v rapid1 ! worms consum+ _! own weight daily4 ,dur+ ?is p]iod1 z has be5 /at$1 !y %$ _! sk9s f\r times1 & aft] ! f\r? molt--ab\t "o mon? aft] hat*+--!y h assum$ _! full size4 ,f !n on hung] less5s1 re/lessness gr[s1 & ! lift+ ( ! =e "p ( ! body indicates ! desire to climb & sp9 cocoons4 ,= ?is purpose bru% & twigs are provid$ 9 ! trays1 to :i* ! worms atta* !mselves & beg9 ! sp9n+ process4 ,! silk ?read is expell$ 9 a semi-liquid =m f two op5+s und]nea? ! m\?1 h>d5+ z x comes 9 contact ) ! air4 ,! fir/ ?reads issu$ are co>se & r\gh1 hav+ ! necess>y /r5g? to s]ve z supports & guys = ! cocoon4 ,gradually ! worm is enclos$ 9 ! cocoon aft] ?ree days ( cont9u\s sp9n+1 dur+ "o ( :i* x is visible & !n sl[ly disappe>s1 ?\gh x c be he>d work+ inside4 ,illu/ration3 ,worms ,fe$+ ,! worm wa/es away z its silk gl&s are exhau/$1 & becomes a *rysalis1 f :i* ! mo? escapes aft] fifte5 to tw5ty days4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,ne/ ( ,cocoons ,sid5ote3 ,cocoons = ,bre$+ ,cocoons to be us$ = silk manufacture mu/ be submitt$ to heat soon aft] !y are complet$1 9 ord] to kill ! *rysalis & prev5t x f =c+ its way out1 ?us break+ ! fibres4 ,a c]ta9 proportion ( ! cocoons ( ea* crop1 h[ev]1 is all[$ to g ?r\gh ! natural process1 = reproductive purposes4 ,!re is an active m>ket 9 ^! bre$+ cocoons1 p>ticul>ly 9 ,japan & ,*9a1 & a l>ge quantity are export$ annually to ,europe & ! ,ne> ,ea/4 ,sid5ote3 ,con/ruction ( ! ,silk ,?read ,! female cocoon is oval & ! male cocoon is peanut %ap$4 ,! silk itself consi/s ( two p>ts3 fibro9 7! silk fibre7 & s]ic9 7! gum74 ,! ?read is made up ( two /r&s ( fibre held toge!r by ! gum1 & ! l5g? ( ?read 9 a s+le cocoon v>ies f ?ree hundr$ to f\rte5 hundr$ y>ds4 ,! cocoons are :ite1 yell[i%1 or gre5i%1 b aft] ! boil+ process ! color ( ! ,bombyx mori silk is pure :ite4 ,illu/ration3 ,japanese ,cocoon ,m>ket ,sid5ote3 ,tussah & ,wild ,silk ,! prec$+ description is conc]n$ m p>ticul>ly ) ! latt] type1 f :i* ! l>ge/ proportion ( ! _w's silk supply is d]iv$1 b 9 a g5]al way x applies to ! o!r types also4 ,! mo/ important ( ^! are ! ,tussah silk ( ,india & ,*9a & ! ,japanese wild silk4 ,! products are co>s] & h>%] ?an ^? ( ! ,bombyx mori1 & ! natural color is br[n4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,japanese ,filature ,,*apt] ,,ii ,,reel+ #a4 ,,hi/ory ,,( ,,! ,,filature ,sid5ote3 ,e>ly ,reel+ & ,twi/+ ,sid5ote3 ,vaucanson's ,filature ,sid5ote3 ,silk ,manufacture 9 ,europe ,! next /ep 9 ! production ( silk is call$ reel+1 & = ?is purpose ! mod]n filature has be5 develop$4 ,! actual exi/5ce ( reel+ ma*9es is by no means mod]n1 h[ev]1 = x is a well-kn[n fact t ! ,*9ese knew h[ to use raw silk z f> back z #ejjj ye>s ago4 ,old pr9ts dat+ back #cjjj ye>s %[ t ! h& 8reel]s0 !n 9 use diff]$ little 9 pr9ciple f ! highly develop$ filatures ( today4 ,al?\gh ,*9a knew h[ to reel & twi/ silk = sev]al ?\s& ye>s1 x 0 only 9 ! ?ird1 f\r?1 & fif? c5turies ,a4 ,d4 t o!r c\ntries1 su* z ,japan & ,ea/]n ,europe1 took x up4 ,! fir/ filatures 71 ( c\rse1 extremely simple1 op]at$ entirely by h&1 & produc$ a v co>se ?read4 ,al?\gh a little progress 0 made dur+ ! ,middle ,ages1 ! turn+ po9t came 9 #agej :5 ,vaucanson1 a ,fr5* eng9e]1 inv5t$ ! fir/ real filature--:i* comb9$ sev]al reel]s1 giv+ ! :ole process m spe$ & turn+ out a product ( consid]ably bett] quality4 ,?is m>k$ ! beg9n+ ( ,europe's int]e/ 9 :at _h s long be5 an exclusively ,ori5tal indu/ry1 & f !n on ! ,fr5*1 ,italians & ,spani% 9 p>ticul> took up ! /udy ( s]iculture & ! reel+ & manufactur+ process4 ,! result 0 to put ! indu/ry on a sci5tific basis :i* x _h nev] rea*$ 9 ! ,ea/4 ,illu/ration3 ,! ,reel+ ,bas9s #b4 ,,prep>+ ,,to ,,reel ,sid5ote3 8,/ov+0 ,! reel+ process is ! fir/ /ep 9 :i* ma*9]y plays an important "p4 ,:5 ! cocoons are ready !y mu/ fir/ be submitt$ to ! 8/ov+0 process1 or /ifl+1 9 :i* !y are expos$ to heat suffici5t to kill ! *rysalis inside4 ,?is is foll[$ by fur!r dry+1 aft] :i* ! cocoons are %ipp$ 9 bags to ! filatures & may be kept indef9itely )\t injur+ ! filam5t4 ,sid5ote3 8,beat+0 ,sid5ote3 ,wa/e ,mat]ial ,z a prelim9>y to reel+1 ! cocoons are imm]s$ 9 boil+ wat] to s(t5 ! gum t holds ! fibre toge!r4 ,:ile 9 ! wat] !y are bru%$ ) a co>se bru% to remove ! heavy out] /r&s ( ! cocoon--a process call$ 8beat+40 ,^! out] /r&s are usually too h>% & brok5 to be reel$1 b are aft]w>ds utiliz$ z s-call$ wa/e :i* is us$ = spun-silk manufacture4#d ,?is applies also to ! inn]mo/ lay]s ( ! cocoon4 ,ab\t "o-half ( ! ?read on a cocoon actually f9ds its way into ?r[n silk4 ,! rema9d] is 8wa/e40 ,:51 by bru%+1 ! true ?reads are rea*$ x is possible to />t reel+1 & b>r+ occasional breaks ^! ?reads are cont9u\s all ! way d[n to ! *rysalis4 #d ,see ,*apt] ,,iv4 #b4 #c4 ,,mod]n ,,reel+ ,,me?ods ,sid5ote3 ,reel+ ,bas9s ,:ile be+ reel$ ! cocoons are float$ 9 bas9s ( v hot wat]1 ea* bas9 fe$+ a reel+ ma*9e4 ,a s+le cocoon /r& is too f9e to use comm]cially1 s sev]al are tak5 at a "t1 v>y+ f ?ree to sev5 or eight accord+ to ! size ( ?read desir$4 ,! size us$ 9 ?is c\ntry mo/ ext5sively is kn[n z #ac_/ae d5i]s & is reel$ f six or sev5 cocoons4 ,dur+ ! reel+ ! wat] is kept at ab\t #fj ,c41 b if ! cocoons are v dry a high] temp]ature is requir$4 ,a heavy smoke issues f ! bas9s & n only humidifies ! room b also p5etrates ! silk1 r5d]+ x v gummy & h>d4 ,?is is ov]come by ! use ( /eam-heat$ tubes runn+ ov] & ar\nd ! ma*9es4 ,ea* reel+ ma*9e & bas9 is 9 *>ge ( a girl :o is responsible = its op]ation & = ! reel+ ( ?read ( correct size4 ,%e mu/ keep c>eful wat* t ! filam5t comes (f ! cocoons /eadily & t all breaks are imm$iately tak5 c>e (1 exhau/$ cocoons be+ replac$ by new ones at ! prop] "t4 ,9 _m filatures ea* girl is *>g$ ) s _m cocoons & mu/ turn 9 a proportionate am\nt ( reel$ silk at ! end ( ! day4 ,sid5ote3 ,twi/+ ,sid5ote3 ,human ,elem5t ,! twi/+ op]ation is an important "p ( ! reel+ process1 = ! raw silk ?reads1 be+ compos$ ( p>allel cocoon filam5ts1 coh]+ only by _! natural gum1 w\ld1 unless twi/$1 mat up & become unworkable4 ,v>i\s me?ods are us$ to obta9 ?is torque1 ! g5]al idea 9 ea* case be+ to run ! sep>ate cocoon ?reads ?r\gh small r+s or eyes & !n unite !m 9 "o ?read l>ge en\gh to reel4 ,9 spite ( ! _m me*anical devices & improvem5ts br\ght out 9 ! la/ few ye>s1 ! success ( ! reel+ op]ation /ill is dep5d5t on ! reel+ girl's ability & c>e4 ,x is p>ticul>ly important t %e be able to judge ! numb] ( cocoons ( a c]ta9 size & texture ne$$ to make a ?read ( ! requir$ d5i]4 ,illu/ration3 ,r]eel+ ,room ,sid5ote3 ,te/+ ! ,ske9s ,sid5ote3 ,color ( ,raw ,silk ,! raw silk is reel$ on travell]s 9 hanks kn[n z ske9s & v>y+ f #ej to #ajj grams 9 weight1 :i* are tak5 (f by ! reel+ girl & ! ends ( ! ?read ti$ up to facilitate ! "w at ! mill4 ,be=e leav+ ! filature x is also subject$ to critical te/s & exam9ations = size1 w9d+1 cleanl9ess1 irregul>ities1 etc4 ,! color ( raw silk z x comes (f ! cocoon & is reel$ into ske9s is ei!r :ite or yell[1 ?\gh "s sorts h a br[ni% or gre5i% t+e4 ,tussah silks h a br[ni%-yell[ color4 ,! color+ matt] 9 ! cultivat$ silks is only 9 ! gum & boils out ) x1 b ! color 9 ! tussah is 9 ! fibre1 r5d]+ x v difficult to blea*4 ,illu/ration3 8,books0 ( ,raw ,silk ,ske9s ,sid5ote3 ,reel+ ,wild ,silk ,sid5ote3 ,wa/e ,silk ,tussah1 or wild silk1 is n g5]ally reel$ by ! wet reel process1 z ! cocoons are apt to be clos$ up at ea* end by gum4 ,9 ,*9a ?is gum is s(t5$ by bury+ ! cocoons 9 manure in/ead ( imm]s+ !m 9 hot wat]4 ,?is is kn[n z dry reel+4 ,x v (t5 happ5s t ! tussah cocoons are unfit = reel+1 due to be+ pi]c$ or tangl$4 ,silk f ^! imp]fect cocoons is aga9 class$ z 8wa/e10 along ) ! frisons1 or outside & inmo/ lay]s ( ! cultivat$ cocoons1 :i*1 z has be5 /at$1 are us$ to make spun silk4 ,9 ?is c\ntry wa/e silk is (t5 call$ s*appe1 al?\gh /rictly speak+ ?is "n %\ld only be appli$ to wa/e silk degumm$ by ! ,fr5* process ( f]m5tation4 ,sid5ote3 ,bal+ ,sid5ote3 ,picul ,bale ,! raw silk1 hav+ be5 reel$ & twi/$ into ske9s1 is next m>k$ & ti$ toge!r 9 bundles ( ske9s kn[n z 8books0 ea* be>+ ! m>k or 8*op0 ( its grade4 ,^! are pack$ 9 bales = %ipm5t1 ! weight ( ! bales v>y+ 9 diff]5t c\ntries4 ,9 ,japan & ,*9a !y are call$ picul bales & weigh #acc p\nds4 ,italian silks1 on ! o!r h&1 are pack$ 9 %ipp+ bales ( ab\t #bjj p\nds4 #d4 ,,s\rces ,,( ,,raw ,,silk ,( ! c\ntries produc+ raw silk1 ,japan & ,*9a occupy ! lead+ positions by a l>ge m>g91 ! =m] contribut+ r\ghly "o half ( ! _w's supply1 & ! latt] ab\t "o ?ird4 ,italy ranks a poor ?ird ) ab\t "o t5?1 & ,france1 ! ,ne> ,ea/1 ,india1 ,spa9 & ! ,balkans contribute ! balance4 ,sid5ote3 ,japan ,al?\gh ! great] "p ( ! raw silk produc$ 9 ! v>i\s c\ntries is export$ = manufacture abroad1 a c]ta9 p]c5tage is reta9$ = home sp9n+ & weav+4 ,x is e/imat$ t ab\t #fe p] c5t ( ! ,japanese output is export$1 approximately #ij p] c5t4 ( :i* goes to ! ,unit$ ,/ates4 ,sid5ote3 ,*9a ,9 ,*9a ov] "o half ( ! output is held = dome/ic consumption1 ! rema9d] be+ divid$ ab\t equally betwe5 ,europe & ,am]ica4 ,sid5ote3 ,italy ,! ,italian raw silk--a v high quality product--f9ds its l>ge/ m>ket 9 ,france1 pr9cipally 9 ! city ( ,lyons1 ! silk c5t] ( ,europe4 ,,*apt] ,,iii ,,m>ket+ ,,raw ,,silk #a4 ,,m>ket+ ,,me?ods ,sid5ote3 ,pr9cipal ,m>kets ,! pr9cipal raw silk m>kets ( ! _w are ,yokohama1 ,lyons1 ,new ,york1 ,milan & ,canton4 ,( ^!1 ,yokohama is probably ! l>ge/ & mo/ important1 due to ! pre-em95t position ( ,japan 9 raw silk production4 ,,raw ,,silk ,,production1 ,,includ+ ,,tussah ,,silk ,,seasons #aiag-aiah ,,to #aibb-aibc #aibb-aibc #aiba-aibb #aibj-aiba ,crops 9 ,p\nds ,p\nds ,p\nds ,p\nds ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ---- ,europe #h1hda1jjj #g1fbh1jjj #h1jeh1jjj ,viz3 ,italy #h1bcd1jjj #g1jff1jjj #g1ccj1jjj ,france #dcg1jjj #dcj1jjj #eea1jjj ,au/ria 4444 4444 4444 ,spa9 #agj1jjj #acb1jjj #agg1jjj ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ---- ,levant #a1edc1jjj #a1bac1jjj #a1fed1jjj ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ---- ,asia3 ,total ,quantity ,export$#e #eg1dci1jjj #ec1ida1jjj #ce1ach1ejj ,viz3 ,*9a1 ,%anghai #fh1fbh1jjj #ff1iic1jjj #ff1eah1ejj ,*9a1 ,canton #g1jej1jjj #e1gce1jjj #d1baj1jjj ,japan1 ,yokohama #da1eda1jjj #dj1ihb1jjj #bd1cjj1jjj ,india #bbj1jjj #bca1jjj #aaj1jjj ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ---- ,total1 ,p\nds #fg1hbc1jjj #fb1ghb1jjj #dd1hej1ejj ,tussah #b1jcd1jjj #a1hef1jjj #a1fej1jjj ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ---- ,gr& ,total1 ,p\nds #fi1heg1jjj #fd1fch1jjj #df1ejj1ejj ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ---- #aiai-aibj #aiah-aiai #aiag-aiah ,crops 9 ,p\nds ,p\nds ,p\nds ,p\nds ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- -------- ,europe #d1ibg1jjj #f1igh1jjj #g1aed1jjj ,viz3 ,italy #d1jde1jjj #e1idb1jjj #f1bag1jjj ,france #cig1jjj #edj1jjj #deb1jjj ,au/ria #gcca1jjj #gcca1jjj #gcca1jjj ,spa9 #aed1jjj #afe1jjj #aed1jjj ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- -------- ,levant #gb1bic1jjj #gb1bic1jjj #gb1bic1jjj ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- -------- ,asia3 ,total ,quantity ,export$#e #ea1hfj1jjj #de1dge1jjj #dh1jbf1jjj ,viz3 ,*9a1 ,%anghai #faj1bbe1jjj #fi1bji1jjj #fh1efc1jjj ,*9a1 ,canton #g1jic1jjj #c1gjd1jjj #e1agj1jjj ,japan1 ,yokohama #cd1bbb1jjj #cb1cjh1jjj #cd1jej1jjj ,india #cbj1jjj #bed1jjj #bdc1jjj ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- -------- ,total1 ,p\nds #ei1jhj1jjj #ed1gdf1jjj #ed1dgc1jjj ,tussah #a1ifj1jjj #a1efa1jjj #a1ecd1jjj ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- -------- ,gr& ,total1 ,p\nds #fa1jdj1jjj #ef1cjg1jjj #ei1jjg1jjj ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- -------- #e ,! production ( raw silk 9 ,*9a & ,india is unkn[n4 ,! ,japan crop is approximately #dg1jjj1jjj p\nds4 #f ,excludes ,tussah silk4 #g ,9 ! abs5ce ( /ati/ics f ,au/ria & ! ,levant1 #aiae production is us$ z an e/imate4 ,c\rtesy ( ,! ,silk ,association ( ,am]ica ,illu/ration3 ,unpack+ ,bales ( ,raw ,silk ,sid5ote3 ,yokohama ,silk ,ex*ange ,! ,yokohama ,raw ,silk ,ex*ange op]ates on a basis simil> to t ( ! v>i\s cotton ex*anges1 & transactions are c>ri$ on 9 8futures0 z f> ahead z five mon?s4 ,! speculative elem5t is v active & its influ5ce is (t5 felt ext5sively ?r\gh\t all phases ( ! indu/ry4 ,on sev]al occasions x has be5 necess>y to close ! ex*ange to av]t real disa/] aft] ! quotations h be5 manipulat$ to an unbelievable ext5t4 ,dur+ ! la/ few ye>s ! ,japanese ,gov]nm5t & v>i\s silk organizations h1 by law & regulation1 succe$$ 9 improv+ ?is situation to a v great degree1 & ! b5efit has be5 felt ?r\gh\t ! indu/ry4 ,sid5ote3 ,condition$ ,weight ,raw silk is sold by weight--9 ,yokohama1 by net weight1 t is1 less wrapp+s1 etc4 ,( rec5t ye>s 9 mo/ c\ntries x has be5 ! cu/om to deal by condition$ weight1 & z a result ! condition+ process has become an important side l9e 9 ! indu/ry4 #b4 ,,condition+ ,sid5ote3 ,invoice ,weight ,condition+ is desirable pr9cipally on acc\nt ( ! fact t raw silk absorbs consid]able moi/ure4 ,a c>eless buy] may f9d aft] deliv]y t he has pur*as$ m wat] ?an he has silk4 ,to avoid ?is possibility1 ,asiatic & ,european m>kets 9 p>ticul> h adopt$ ! condition$ weight basis--absolute dry weight plus #aa p] c5t moi/ure4 ,quotations are (t5 giv5 on invoice weight1 :i* is condition$ weight plus a #b m>g9 = v>iation4 ,a condition+ h\se1 besides exam9+ = weight1 also conducts num]\s o!r te/s necess>y to condition$ silk4 ,! ma9 factors tak5 into consid]ation1 besides weight1 are size1 color1 cleanl9ess1 boil-(f1 w9d+ /r5g?1 ela/icity1 & g5]al uni=mity4 ,sid5ote3 ,weight ,z reg>ds size1 ! unit is ! d5i]1 an anci5t ,fr5* weight equal to 4#je gram2 ! size is measur$ by ! weight 9 d5i]s ( #dej met]s ( ! ?read4 ,z previ\sly /at$1 ! #ac_/ae d5i] size is ! /&>d us$ 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates1 al?\gh ! l>g] & small] grades are dealt 9 to "s ext5t = special types ( products4 ,size is always giv5 z av]ag+ betwe5 c]ta9 d5i]s 7su* z #ac to #ae7 z x is impossible to atta9 absolute accuracy 9 reel+1 & slight v>iations _c be avoid$1 ei!r )9 ! bales or )9 ! ske9s !mselves4 ,sid5ote3 ,color ,! color te/ is conc]n$ m]ely ) uni=mity 9 %ade1 :i* makes accurate dye+ possible4 ,! cultivat$ silks are ei!r pure :ite or yell[1 accord+ to ! v>iety ( cocoon f :i* !y are d]iv$4 ,sid5ote3 8,boil (f0 ,! t]m 8boil (f0 ref]s to ! am\nt or p]c5tage ( gum on ! filam5t4 ,z expla9$ be=e1 ! individual /r&s ( fibre adh]e toge!r ?r\gh a gummy sub/ance secret$ by ! worm4 ,! am\nt f\nd 9 ! reel$ silk v>ies ) diff]5t k9ds f #aj to #be p] c5t by weight--:i* is br\ght d[n to a m9imum by ! boil+ process4 ,sid5ote3 ,w9d+ ,/r5g? ,w9d+ /r5g? is measur$ by ! breaks t occur 9 w9d+4 ,9 ?is c\ntry ! te/ is bas$ on ! numb] ( breaks occurr+ 9 #cj or m ske9s w\nd at ! rate ( ab\t #abj y>ds p] m9ute4 ,?is te/ is extremely important s9ce a weak ?read c d mu* to h9d] an effici5t re-reel+ process1 inasmu* z ea* break /ops ! ma*9e & mu/ be ti$ by ! op]ator4 #c4 ,,grad+ ,,& ,,quotations ,sid5ote3 ,classification ,sid5ote3 ,difficulties 9 ,grad+ ,! "q ( classification ( raw silk = m>ket & ! v>i\s t]ms us$ = its pur*ase & sale is a complicat$ "o4 ,/&>dization has be5 s\ght aft] = a good _m ye>s & committees bo? "h & abroad h /udi$ ! problem on v>i\s occasions--b )\t entirely satisfactory results4 ,! *ief s\rce ( tr\ble appe>s to lie ! _m types ( v>iation t may occur1 n only on acc\nt ( ! great numb] ( qualities requir$ 9 ! product1 b also due to ! v>y+ conditions "u :i* ! silk is produc$4 ,9 ! e>ly days ( ! indu/ry1 :5 f>m production 0 ! *ief s\rce ( supply1 p>ticul>ly 9 ,japan & ,*9a1 satisfactory grad+ 0 almo/ an impossibility4 ,h[ev]1 n[ t s]iculture & reel+ has come m & m into ! h&s ( ! l>ge companies & filatures1 a great] degree ( /&>dization c be rea*$4 ,sid5ote3 ,quotations ,! foll[+ is an actual example ( a rec5t quotation li/ 9 ! ,new ,york m>ket z x appe>$ 9 a comm]cial pap]3-- ,,japan 7,n9ety ,days' ,basis1 #ac-ae ,d5ies7 ,kansai ,d\ble ,extra ,cracks #f4ae #f4bj ,kansai ,d\ble ,extra 8,a0 #f4je #f4aj ,kansai ,d\ble ,extra 8,b0 #f4jj #f4jg ,kansai ,be/ ,extra #e4ie #f4jb ,kansai ,extra #e4ij #e4ig ,kansai ,be/ ,no4 #a to ,extra #e4hg #e4ie ,kansai ,be/ ,no4 #a #e4he #e4ib ,kansai ,no4 #a #e4hb #e4ij ,s9%iu ,no4 #a #e4gg #e4he ,,canton 7,n9ety ,days' ,basis7 ,k+ ,s5g gr4 #ad-af #f4dj ,favorite--,d\ble ,extra #bj-bb #f4jj ,favorite--,d\ble ,extra #bb-bf #e4ij ,,%anghai 7,n9ety ,days' ,basis7 ,,*9a ,,/eam ,,filature ,gold ,d\ble ,de]1 new crop #g4ej ,g]anium1 new crop #g4be ,comet #f4fj ,tsatless ,blue ,dragon & ,fly+ ,horse #e4fj ,black ,lion1 ,no4 #a-b #e4aj ,tussah--,be/ *ops #c4ij ,,italian ,gr& ,extra ,classical #g4jj ,extra ,classical #f4hj ,be/ ,classical #f4gj ,illu/ration3 ,,raw ,,silk ,,prices ,,new ,,york ,,m>ket #aiac-aibc ,c\rtesy ( ,! ,silk ,association ( ,am]ica ,sid5ote3 ,kansai & ,s9%iu ,9 ! ,japanese classification1 ,kansai & ,s9%iu orig9ally indicat$ ! section ( ,japan :]e ! silk orig9at$1 b ( rec5t ye>s !y h come to mean h>d or s(t natur$ silks respectively4 ,! 8,s9%iu ,no4 #a0 is usually consid]$ ! /&>d quotation to use 9 judg+ ! m>ket tr5d4 ,sid5ote3 8,*ops0 ,! ,*9ese quotations are probably ! mo/ difficult to und]/& s9ce !y g almo/ entirely by 8*op0--t is1 well-kn[n br&s :i* are m>k$ 9 "s di/9ctive way1 z %[n on ! above li/ ( quotations4 ,,*apt] ,,iv ,,manufacture ,,( ,,?r[n ,,& ,,spun ,,silk ,we h cov]$ 9 ! prec$+ *apt]s ! culture ( raw silk1 its reel+1 & f9ally its m>ket+ 9 ! c\ntries :]e x is to be manufactur$ into ! f9i%$ textile4 ,we n[ come to ! me*anical phases ( ! indu/ry1 by :i* raw silk is made fir/ into y>n & !n into fabric4 ,:]eas1 9 ! case ( cotton & wool1 we h se5 t y>n is manufactur$ by v>i\s modifications ( ! sp9n+ process1 ?is is n true 9 ! case ( silk4 ,! sp9n+ process is "h supplant$ by an op]ation kn[n z 8?r[+10 & is resort$ to only 9 ! manufacture ( y>n f ! v>i\s k9ds ( silk wa/e4 #a4 ,,?r[n ,,silk ,sid5ote3 ,necessity = ,?r[+ ,! ord9>y raw silk1 z x comes f ! filature & is sold 9 ! m>ket1 is compos$ ( f two to eight filam5ts adh]+ toge!r by virtue ( ! natural gum secret$ by ! worm4 ,?is ?read is too ?9 & delicate = _m uses & s mu/ be submitt$ to fur!r twi/+ & d\bl+--a process call$ 8?r[+40 ,x mu/ be borne 9 m9d1 h[ev]1 t !re are sev]al types ( fabrics 9 :i* raw silk is us$ )\t go+ ?r\gh ! ?r[+ op]ation4 ,?is is usually ! case1 = example1 ) ! w>p ?reads = crepes1 *>meuse1 & messal9e4 ,sid5ote3 8,?r[/]s0 ,al?\gh "s ( ! l>g] silk mills h _! own dep>tm5ts = ?is process1 z a g5]al rule x is done by indep5d5t conc]ns kn[n z 8?r[/]s0--:o specialize 9 ?is p>ticul> op]ation4 ,ma*9]y ( a v complicat$ & accurate type is necess>y1 capable ( op]at+ at v high spe$4 ,x has be5 f\nd t ! inve/m5t call$ = to equip su* a mill is too l>ge 9 mo/ cases to all[ ! manufactur]s to incorporate ?is op]ation 9 _! factories1 p>ticul>ly if x happ5s t ! sp9dles are n fully employ$ dur+ ! :ole ( ! ye>4 ,illu/ration3 ,?r[+ ,ma*9es ,sid5ote3 ,organz9e & ,tram ,!re are two ma9 classes ( ?r[n silk--organz9e & tram--! =m] has a heavy twi/ & is us$ = ! w>p2 :ile ! latt] is giv5 only a light twi/ & is us$ = fill+4 ,)9 ^! two g5]al types !re are _m special grades1 accord+ to ! type ( mat]ial = :i* !y are to be us$1 su* z crepe1 *iffon1 sew+ ?read1 floss silk1 embroid]y silk1 etc4 ,sid5ote3 ,soak+ ! ,raw ,silk ,! raw silk z x comes to ! ?r[+ mill is done up 9 books ( ske9s & pack$ 9 bales1 z describ$ 9 a previ\s *apt]4 ,! ske9s1 aft] be+ weigh$ & exam9$1 are fir/ soak$ = ab\t twelve h\rs 9 w>m soapy wat]1 :i* s(t5s ! natural gum1 aft] :i* !y are ?or\ghly dri$4 ,?is1 ( c\rse1 r$uces ! moi/ure cont5t bel[ ! cu/om>y #aa p] c5t1 :i* is lat] re/or$ by natural absorption4 ,sid5ote3 ,w9d+ ,! fir/ /ep 9 ! actual ?r[+ is ! w9d+ ( ! ?read on bobb9s4 ,! ske9s are put on swifts--a light type ( reel--& w\nd at a v high rate ( spe$ on ! prop] size ( bobb94 ,x is "h t ! w9d+ /r5g? ( ! silk meets its sev]e/ te/1 = con/ant breaks dur+ ! w9d+ involve consid]able exp5se :5 spe$ is su* an important factor4 ,sid5ote3 ,twi/+ ,! bobb9s ( silk are next tak5 to ! twi/]1 :i* comb9es two or m /r&s & gives ! ?read ! necess>y am\nt ( twi/ = ! special type t is desir$4 ,9 ! case ( tram a v light twi/ is giv51 ab\t two or ?ree turns to ! in*4 ,= organz9e ! s+le ?reads are fir/ giv5 sixte5 turns to an in* 9 "o direction1 !n d\bl$ & twi/$ f\rte5 turns 9 ! o!r direction4 ,sid5ote3 ,crepe ,twi/+ is ! basis ( ! manufacture ( ! v>i\s k9ds ( crepe4 ,! fill+ or tram us$ is giv5 a v h>d twi/1 ab\t sixty-five turns to ! in*--ei!r 9 "r or left-h& direction4 ,^! ?reads are lat] wov5 alt]nately & s produce ! cr9kl$ effect4 ,?r[n silk is classifi$ 9 a simil> way to raw silk1 except t usually m>ket quotations on ?r[n silks m5tion n only ! classification b also ! purpose = :i* x is to be us$ 7tram or organz9e71 ! size 9 d5i]s1 ! numb] ( ?reads & twi/s to ! in*4 #b4 ,,spun ,,silk ,sid5ote3 ,sp9n+ ,wa/e ,silk ,! above processes ref] only to ?r[+ ( raw silk4 ,9 ! case ( wa/e1 s*appe1 frisons1 etc41 an entirely diff]5t me?od mu/ be us$1 compris+ a s]ies ( op]ations v simil> to ! c>d+1 comb+ & sp9n+ ( wool4#h ,! gum1 ( :i* silk wa/e conta9s a v l>ge proportion1 mu/ fir/ be boil$ (f 9 a hot soapy ba? or all[$ to f]m5t 9 vats1 ! latt] me?od be+ us$ m g5]ally 9 ,europe4 ,aft] degumm+1 ! wa/e silk is next wa%$ & dri$ & all[$ to absorb ! #aa p] c5t moi/ure cont5t1 z 9 ! case ( ! ?r[n silk4 ,?is is foll[$ by pick+1 comb+1 & dress+ to remove any dirt or o!r =eign matt] & to sep>ate ! fibres & arrange !m 9 p>allel ord]4 ,! silk is next sep>at$ into %ort laps1 !n drawn out into ?9 sliv]s by means ( draw+ frames1 & ?or\ghly comb$ to make ! fibres smoo? & uni=m4 ,^! sliv]s are f9ally made suitable = w9d+ on bobb9s by be+ pass$ ?r\gh rov+ frames4 ,!n foll[s ! actual sp9n+ process1 :i* twi/s ! rov+ into y>n4 ,diff]5t types ( y>n are produc$ by v>y+ ! am\nt ( twi/ & ! numb] ( /r&s us$4 ,s+le y>n is made by twi/+ a s+le /r& on itself1 :ile = #b-ply1 two y>ns are twi/$ toge!r1 & s =?1 z 9 ! case ( cotton or wool4 ,aft] be+ clean$ & exam9$1 ! y>n is w\nd into ske9s ( ab\t #e ounces4 ,sid5ote3 ,uses ( ,spun ,silk ,! pr9cipal use ( spun silk is 9 mix$ fabrics1 9 conjunction ) wool1 cotton1 or raw silk1 ! spun silk ?read g5]ally be+ us$ z fill+ r ?an w>p4 ,! bett] grades are made into velvet & plu% & v>i\s types ( knit goods4 ,al?\gh high quality spun silk (t5 has ! /r5g? & we>+ quality ( ?r[n silk1 x nev] c compete ) ! latt] 9 reg>d to lu/re4 ,sid5ote3 ,siz+ ,spun silk is describ$ z to size 9 "o ( two g5]al ways4 ,9 ! ,engli% sy/em ! numb] ( ! y>n is ! numb] ( hanks ( #hdj y>ds weigh+ a p\nd1 ) a second numb] indicat+ ! ply4 ,?us1 size 8#bj-b0 w\ld designate a #b-ply y>n1 a p\nd ( :i* conta9$ #af1hjj y>ds4 ,! ,fr5* sy/em is m or less on ! same pr9ciple1 ! ma9 diff]5ce be+ t ! numb] ( ! y>n indicates ! ?\s&s ( metres weigh+ a kilogram4 #h ,see ,"p ,two1 ,page #gd to ,page #gh = details ( sp9n+4 #c4 ,,m>ket+ ,,?r[n ,,& ,,spun ,,silk ,?r[n & spun silk are b\ght & sold 9 v mu* ! same way z is raw silk1 al?\gh ! m>ket is n z ext5sive nor is ! volume ( trad+ z l>ge4 ,! foll[+ tables ( quotations are f a rec5t silk j\rnal4 ,a comp>ison ) ! quotations giv5 9 ,*apt] ,,iii w %[ ! appreciation 9 value ( ! v>i\s grad+s ?r\gh ! ?r[+ & sp9n+ processes4 ,,?r[n ,,silk ,,organz9e ,d\ble ,extra ,crack #g4cj ,d\ble ,extra #g4bj ,extra #g4aj ,,tram ,extra #f4he ,be/ ,no4 #a #f4ge ,kansai ,no4 #a #f4gj ,japan ,crepe ,twi/1 #b ?read1 #ge turns #g4hj ,japan ,crepe ,twi/1 #c & #d ?read1 #fj-fe turns #g4be ,canton ,crepe ,twi/1 #c & #d ?read1 #fj-fe turns #g4bj ,hosi]y ,tram #f4ge ,,spun ,,silk #b net #cj days #f_/b #d4be #aj_/b #d4ce #bj_/b #d4ge #cj_/b #e4ae #dj_/b #e4ce #ej_/b #e4ej #fj_/a #d4de #fj_/b #e4fj ,illu/ration3 ,twi/+ on ,new ,w>p ,?reads ,illu/ration3 ,mod]n ,briti% ,loom ,%[n at ! ,briti% ,empire ,exposition ,wembley1 #aibd ,sid5ote3 ,imports ,al?\gh f> f approa*+ raw silk1 ! importations ( silk wa/e to ?is c\ntry rea* q sub/antial figures1 z ! foll[+ table %[s3 ,raw ,silk ,wa/e ,silk #aibj #cj1jeh1cgd #i1djj1ihe #aiba #de1cee1jie #f1hdi1cfi #aibb #ej1gaa1hbf #g1fch1cag #aibc #di1eje1eha #ab1aja1dbj 7,c\rtesy ( ,silk ,association ( ,am]ica7 ,,*apt] ,v ,,weav+ ,,& ,,f9i%+ #a4 ,,weav+ ,! manufacture ( ?r[n & spun silk into ! f9i%$ mat]ial1 :e!r by weav+ or knitt+1 v>ies ) ! diff]5t types ( fabric desir$4 ,b ! sev]al processes are bas$ on ! same g5]al pr9ciple & are v simil> to ^? us$ = cotton & wool4 ,to avoid repetition we w\ld ref] to ,pages tw5ty-six to tw5ty-n9e & ,pages ?irty-"o to ?irty-five1 :]e full descriptions w be f\nd4 #b4 ,,f9i%+ ,sid5ote3 ,boil+ ,(f ,! fir/ /ep 9 ! f9i%+ ( fabrics is dye+--unless x has already be5 done be=e weav+4 ,a consid]able proportion ( silk is dy$ 9 ske9 or y>n =m be=e weav+1 b 9 ei!r case ! me?ods ( dye+ are practically ! same4 ,prep>atory to dye+ x is necess>y to boil (f ! natural gum by means ( hot soap ba?s4 ,if ! silk is to be dy$ 9 d>k colors a consid]able am\nt ( ! gum is all[$ to rema94 ,su* silk is kn[n z s\ple silk & is us$ pr9cipally = fill+4 ,if all ! gum has be5 remov$1 x is call$ bright silk4 ,sid5ote3 ,blea*+ ,all silk1 aft] boil+ (f1 %\ld be ne>ly pure :ite4 ,raw silk1 z m5tion$ 9 a previ\s *apt]1 is (t5 bright yell[1 b z ?is color is entirely 9 ! gum1 x is lo/ by boil+ (f4 ,9 ! case ( unev5 coloration 9 ! raw silk1 x is necess>y to resort to blea*+ be=e dye+ 9 ord] to get uni=mity 9 ! f9i%$ product4 ,?is applies p>ticul>ly to wild silks1 su* z ,tussah1 :i* are blea*$ by be+ plac$ 9 an air-tight room fill$ ) a *emical prep>ation1 su* z sulphur gas or sodium or hydrog5 p]oxide4 ,a fur!r wa%+ & dry+ is !n necess>y be=e ! ske9s or goods c be dy$4 ,illu/ration3 ,jacqu>d ,loom ,sid5ote3 ,dye+ ,sid5ote3 ,mordant ,dyes ,!re is no /&>d dye us$ = silk1 "s manufactur]s pref]r+ "o type & o!rs1 ano!r4 ,x may be said1 h[ev]1 t z a g5]al rule silk is dy$ by ! direct me?od1 )\t ! use ( an int]m$iate or mordant ag5t z 9 ! case ( cotton4 ,?is is made possible ?r\gh ! natural absorptive p[]s ( silk fibre4 ,mordant dyes are sometimes us$1 x is true1 salts ( t9 or iron be+ employ$ z ! ag5t2 b ?is me?od is useful pr9cipally :5 x is desir$ to weight ! silk & re/ore :at 0 lo/ 9 boil+ (f4 ,z ?is loss g5]ally am\nts to ab\t #bj or #be p] c5t & z raw silk is sold by weight1 x is easy to see t ?is1 unless recov]$ 9 "s way1 w\ld r$uce ! manufactur]'s pr(it consid]ably4 ,illu/ration3 ,w9d+ ,?r[n ,silk into ,ske9s = ,dye+ ,sid5ote3 ,weight+ ,silk ,! process ( weight+ silk has be5 greatly abus$1 z x is comp>atively simple to adult]ate x1 )\t discov]y1 to su* an ext5t t ! prop]ties ( ! fibre are s]i\sly impair$4 ,weight$ silk nev] has ! /r5g? or we>+ quality ( ! unadult]at$ product4 ,h[ev]1 a c]ta9 am\nt ( weight+--to re/ore a "p ( ! degumm+ loss--is g5]ally recogniz$ z legitimate1 al?\gh ! p]c5tage p]missible is (t5 a matt] = discussion4 ,bo? ske9 & piece silk are dy$ by be+ imm]s$ 9 vats conta9+ ! hot dye solution4 ,! silk is run ov] roll]s :i* insure ev5 coloration ?r\gh\t4 ,aft] dye+ x is dri$1 /ret*$ on a t5t] frame & !n submitt$ to dry heat :i* sets ! dye & adds lu/] to ! silk4 ,sid5ote3 ,pr9t+ ,pr9t+ is also us$ = color+ & patt]n effects 9 v mu* ! same way z = cotton goods4 ,aft] pr9t+ ! goods are submitt$ to a dry /eam heat :i* sets ! colors4 ,sid5ote3 ,f9i%+ ,beyond dye+ or pr9t+1 silk goods require v little f9i%+ o!r ?an cal5d>+ by pass+ ?r\gh roll]s4 ,"s types ( fabric require s(t5+ & o!rs1 h>d5+--accompli%$ 9 a v>iety ( ways too num]\s to describe4 ,_m ( ^! are secret processes p]fect$ & pat5t$ by individual companies4 ,a multitude ( diff]5t effects c be obta9$ by ^! v>i\s treatm5ts ( ! surface ( ! goods4 ,,*apt] ,,vi ,,artificial ,,silk #a4 ,,e>ly ,,developm5t ,sid5ote3 ,*>donnet ,! discov]y ( :at is kn[n z 8artificial silk0 is g5]ally attribut$ to a ,fr5*man1 ,c\nt ,hilaire de ,*>donnet1 :o aft] _m ye>s ( rese>* & exp]im5tation1 betwe5 #ahdj & #ahij1 f9ally p]fect$ a fibre t possess$ ! necess>y qualities = practical weav+4 ,he introduc$ 8 discov]y to ! public 9 #ahia at ! ,p>is ,exposition1 & 9 addition to w9n+ ! 8,gr& ,prix0 0 also made a knight ( ! ,legion ( ,honor 9 recognition ( 8 contribution to sci5ce & indu/ry4 ,sid5ote3 ,fur!r ,developm5t ,s9ce t "t o!rs h contribut$ to ! developm5t ( ! new fibre & discov]$ o!r me?ods ( production--all1 h[ev]1 bas$ on ! same g5]al pr9ciple z ! ,*>donnet process4 ,despaisses & ,panly1 two ,fr5*m51 & ,/e>n1 ,cross & ,bevan1 ,engli%m51 are ! out/&+ names 9 ?is "w4 #b4 ,,v>i\s ,,processes ,sid5ote3 ,use ( ,cellulose ,all ! processes t h met ) any success are bas$ on ! use ( cellulose 9 "s =m1 z a f\ndation4 ,! two s\rces t h prov$ mo/ successful are wood-pulp & cotton & x may be said t ! bulk ( ! artificial silk on ! m>ket comes f "o or ! o!r ( ^! two raw mat]ials4 ,sid5ote3 ,*>donnet ,process ,! ,*>donnet process uses cotton z its base4 ,x is fir/ blea*$1 !n by *emical treatm5t is *ang$ to nitro-cellulose1 :i* is dissolv$ 9 alcohol & e!r & ?us made ready = 8sp9n+40 ,sid5ote3 ,viscose ,process ,! ,viscose process1 :i* has made great /rides 9 rec5t ye>s1 makes use ( a pure grade ( sulphite wood-pulp4 ,?is pulp is 9 %eet =m & is fir/ treat$ ) a solution ( cau/ic soda1 !n %r$d$ v f9e & put ?r\gh sev]al m *emical treatm5ts1 f9ally be+ dissolv$ 9 wat] prep>atory to ! 8sp9n+40 ,sid5ote3 8,sp9n+0 ,9 bo? ( ! above me?ods ! production ( ! ?read is ! same4 ,! solution1 :e!r x be bas$ on cotton or wood-pulp1 is =c$ ?r\gh m9ute holes & comes out 9 a ?read-l /ream1 :i* solidifies :5 subject$ to a sett+ ba?4 ,x is !n wa%$1 dri$1 & put ?r\gh processes1 su* z twi/+1 reel+1 etc41 v simil> to ^? :i* natural silks und]go4 #c4 ,,uses ,,( ,,artificial ,,silk ,! uses ( artificial silk are _m & are n entirely conf9$ to comb9ations ) o!r textiles4 ,( rec5t ye>s ! knitt+ trade has adopt$ x ext5sively1 p>ticul>ly 9 hosi]y1 sweat] & und]we> manufacture4 ,9 weav+1 x has prov5 v successful 9 comb9ation ) silk or cotton4 ,l>ge quantities are us$ 9 ribbon1 electric cord cov]+1 y>ns1 ?reads1 etc4 ,x is g5]ally felt t ! new fibre does n directly compete ) or replace natural silk1 b r occupies its own place 9 ! trade on ! same basis z ! o!r textiles4 ,sid5ote3 ,gr[? ( ! ,indu/ry ,x has only be5 dur+ ! la/ fifte5 ye>s t artificial silk has be5 a v important factor comm]cially1 al?\gh = a few ye>s be=e t "t1 small quantities 7 produc$ 9 ,europe4 ,s9ce ab\t #aiaj its use has be5 /eadily gr[+ 9 ?is c\ntry1 ! importations f ,europe increas+ 9 #aiab f ab\t "o & "o-half million p\nds to ne>ly ?ree million p\nds 9 #aiad4 ,s9ce #aiaj dome/ic production has also become a factor 9 ! m>ket & num]\s factories h be5 e/abli%$1 ! figures = #aibc %[+ ab\t #cc1jjj1jjj p\nds output4 ,x is e/imat$ t 9 #aibb ! comb9$ importations & dome/ic production am\nt$ to ar\nd #bj1jjj1jjj p\nds1 ab\t #ej ( ! total consumption ( natural silk = t ye>4 ,sid5ote3 ,u4 ,s4 ,production ,! foll[+ figures %[ ! production ( artificial silk 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates 9 #aiac & betwe5 #aibj & #aibc3 #aiac #a1eff1jjj p\nds #aibj #h1jjj1jjj 0 #aiba #ae1jjj1jjj 0 #aibb #bd1jjj1jjj 0 #aibc #cc1jjj1jjj 0 ,illu/ration3 ,,imports ,,( ,,raw ,,silk ,,into ,,! ,,unit$ ,,/ates ,,( ,,am]ica ,,cal5d> ,,ye> #aiad-aibc ,c\rtesy ( ,! ,silk ,association ( ,am]ica ,,! ,,int]national ,,acceptance ,,bank1 ,,inc4 ,,& ,,! ,,silk ,,trade ,,! ,,int]national ,,acceptance ,,bank1 ,,inc41 f9ances annually ! importation ( millions ( doll>s wor? ( ,,silk f ,*9a1 ,japan1 & ,italy4 ,,! ,,int]national ,,acceptance ,,bank1 ,,inc41 c (f] exceptional facilities = op5+ comm]cial lett]s ( cr$it 9 ! ,f> ,ea/ by reason ( its l>ge net-"w ( correspond5ts1 & p>ticul>ly because ( its close relation to ! ,,ne!rl&s ,,trad+ ,,society1 ) bran*es ?r\gh\t ! ,f> ,ea/1 :i* is "o ( its lead+ %>ehold]s4 ,?r\gh its close relation%ip ) ?is in/itution1 & ) _m o!r ,ea/]n banks1 ,,! ,,int]national ,,acceptance ,,bank1 ,,inc41 c obta9 = its cli5ts a highly effici5t s]vice & c give !m ! b5efit ( ! confid5tial in=mation :i* x receives4 ,transcrib]'s ,notes pg #gd ,*ang$3 f horizonal spools on to v]tical sp9dles to3 f horizontal spools on to v]tical sp9dles pg #gh ,*ang$3 !n compress$ betwee5 roll]s to3 !n compress$ betwe5 roll]s pg #ia ,*ang$3 fur!r into hi!rto un9habitat$ to3 fur!r into hi!rto un9habit$ pg #abd ,*ang$3 ,x is !n wa%$1 dry$ to3 ,x is !n wa%$1 dri$