,transcriber's ,note3 ,italic text is denoted by underscores4 8,,work0 ,,handbooks ,,knotting ,,and ,,splicing ,,ropes ,,and ,,cordage ,,knotting ,,and ,,splicing ,,ropes ,,and ,,cordage ,,with ,,numerous ,,engravings ,,and ,,diagrams ,,edited ,,by ,,paul ,n4 ,,hasluck ,,editor ,,of 8,,work0 ,,and 8,,building ,,world0 ,,author ,,of 8,,handbooks ,,for ,,handicrafts10 ,,etc4 ,,etc4 ,,philadelphia ,,david ,mc,k,a,y1 ,,publisher #faj1 ,,south ,,washington ,,square #aijg ,,preface4 ,this ,handbook contains1 in a form convenient for everyday use1 a comprehensive digest of the information on ,knotting and ,splicing ,ropes and ,cordage1 scattered over more than twenty thousand columns of the journals it is my fortune to edit--and supplies concise information on the details of the subjects on which it treats4 ,readers who may desire additional information respecting special details of the matters dealt with in this ,handbook1 or instructions on kindred subjects1 should address a question to ,the ,editor of ,,work1 ,la ,belle ,sauvage1 ,london1 ,e4,c41 so that it may be answered in the columns of that journal4 ,p4 ,n4 ,,hasluck4 ,la ,belle ,sauvage1 ,london4 ,,contents4 ,,chapter ,,page ,i4--,introduction3 ,rope ,formation #i ,,ii4--,simple and ,useful ,knots #ae ,,iii4--,eye ,knots1 ,hitches1 and ,bends #bd ,,iv4--,ring ,knots and ,rope ,shortenings #dc ,v4--,ties and ,lashings #ei ,,vi4--,fancy ,knots #ff ,,vii4--,rope ,splicing #hi ,,viii4--,working ,cordage #if ,,ix4--,hammock ,making #abe ,x4--,lashings and ,ties for ,scaffolding #acj ,,xi4--,splicing and ,socketing ,wire ,ropes #acc ,index #aef ,,list ,,of ,,illustrations4 ,,fig4 ,,page #a4--,overhand ,knot #ae #b4--;,fourfold ,overhand ,knot1 ,loose and ,taut #ae #c4--;,figure-of-eight ,knot #af #d4--,sailor's ,knots or ,reef ,knots #af #e4--,sailor's ,reef ,knot1 ,half-made #ag #f4--;,granny or ,lubber's ,knot #ag #g4--;,granny ,knot1 ,taut #ah #h4--,overhand ,rosette ,knot or ,bow #ai #i4--,weaver's ,knot1 ,half-made #bj #aj4--,weaver's ,knot1 ,closed #ba #aa4--,overhand ,knot ,joining ,two ,ropes #ba #ab4--;,flemish ,knot ,joining ,two ,ropes #bb #ac4--;,fisherman's ,knot #bb #ad4--,whipcord ,knot #bc #ae4--,running ,knot #bd #af4--;,fisherman's ,eye ,knot #be #ag4--,openhand ,eye ,knot #be #ah4--;,flemish ,eye ,knot #bf #ai4--;,crabber's ,eye ,knot #bf #bj4--;,bowline ,knot #bg #ba4--,running ,bowline on ,bight #bh #bb4--,running ,knot with ,two ,ends--,loose #bi #bc4--,running ,knot with ,two ,ends--,fastened #bi #bd4--,two ,half ,hitches #cj #be4--;,builder's ,knot #ca #bf4--,timber ,hitch #cb #bg4--,killick ,hitch #cc #bh4--,magnus ,hitch #cc #bi4--;,fisherman's ,bend #cd #cj4--,rolling ,hitch #cd #ca4--,topsail ,halliard ,bend #ce #cb4--,racking ,hitch #ce #cc4--,slippery ,hitch #cf #cd4--;,carrick ,bend #cf #ce4--;,bending ,sheet to ,clew of ,sail #cg #cf4--,more ,secure ,sheet ,bend #ch #cg4--;,bending ,rope to ,loop #ch #ch4--;,blackwall ,hitch #ci #ci4--,midshipman's ,hitch #dj #dj4--,marlinespike ,hitch #dj #da4--,regulating ,lashing #da #db4--,stationer's ,knot #da #dc4--,slippery ,ring ,knot #dc #dd4--;,boat ,knot #dd #de4--,lark ,boat ,knot #dd #df4--,lark's ,head #de #dg4--,lark's ,head ,stoppered #de #dh4--,lark's ,head with ,crossed ,ends #df #di4--;,double ,lark's ,head #df #ej4--,treble ,lark's ,head #dg #ea4--;,backhanded ,sailor's ,knot #dg #eb4--;,capstan ,knot #dh #ec4--;,another ,form of ,sailor's ,knot #dh #ed4--;,gunner's ,knot #di #ee4--;,beginning of ,artillery ,knot #ej #ef4--;,artillery ,knot ,finished #ej #eg4--;,bend ,shortening #ea #eh4--;,chain ,knot #ea #ei4--;,beginning ,chain ,knot #eb #fj4--,twist ,knot #ec #fa4--;,beginning ,twist ,knot #ec #fb4--,sheepshanks #ed #fc4--,sheepshanks ,fastened #ed #fd4--,sheepshanks ,knotted #ed #fe4--,sheepshanks ,knotted #ee #ff4--;,boat ,knot ,shortening or ,sheepshanks ,toggled #ef #fg4--,knot ,shortening #ef #fh4--;,beginning ,knot ,shortening #eg #fi4--;,double ,chain ,knot #eg #gj4--,wedding ,knot #ei #ga4--;,chain ,knot ,lashed to ,spar #ei #gb4--;,improved ,chain ,knot #fj #gc4--;,cross ,lashing #fj #gd4--,necklace ,tie #fa #ge4--,packing ,knot #fa #gf4--;,finishing off ,whipping #fb #gg4--;,finishing off ,whipping #fb #gh4--,nippering #fc #gi4--,west ,country ,whipping #fc #hj4--;,catspaw #fd #ha4--;,beginning ,catspaw #fd #hb4--,securing ,block to ,rope #fe #hc4--,wall ,knot #ff #hd4--,stopper ,knot #ff #he4--;,beginning ,crowning #fg #hf4--;,crowning ,complete #fg #hg4--;,beginning ,manrope ,knot #fh #hh4--,manrope ,knot #fh #hi4--,tack ,knot #fh #ij4--,matthew ,walker ,knot #fi #ia4--,matthew ,walker ,knot #gj #ib4--;,beginning ,diamond ,knot #gj #ic4--;,diamond ,knot before ,hauling ,taut #ga #id4--,single ,diamond ,knot #gb #ie4--;,double ,diamond ,knot #gb #if4--,shroud ,knot #gc #ig4--;,beginning ,turk's ,head #gd #ih4--,turk's ,head #ge #ii4--,single ,pitcher ,knot #gg #ajj4--;,beginning ,single ,pitcher ,knot #gg #aja4--,pitcher with ,rope ,handle #gg #ajb4--;,double ,pitcher ,knot #gi #ajc4--;,beginning ,double ,pitcher ,knot #gi #ajd4--;,can or ,jar in ,sling #hj #aje4--;,beginning ,can ,sling #ha #ajf4--,shamrock ,knot #hb #ajg4--;,beginning ,shamrock ,knot #hb #ajh4--;,another ,way of making ,shamrock ,knot #hc #aji4--;,beginning ,dalliance ,knot #hd #aaj4--,next ,stage in ,dalliance ,knot #he #aaa4--;,davenport ,brothers' ,knot #hf #aab4--;,bellringer's ,knot #hg #aac4--;,beginning ,short ,splice #hi #aad4--,marlinespike #ij #aae4--,pricker #ij #aaf4--,long ,rope ,splice #ia #aag4--;,cut ,splice #ib #aah4--;,beginning ,cut ,splice #ic #aai4--;,eye ,splice #ic #abj4--,splicing ,grommet #id #aba4--;,finishing off ,grommet #ie #abb4--;,flemish ,eye #if #abc4--;,grommet #ig #abd4--,selvagee #ih #abe4--,selvagee fastening ,block to ,rope #ii #abf4--,worming1 ,parcelling1 and ,marling #ajj #abg4--,serving #ajj #abh4--;,belaying #aja #abi4--;,fairleader #aja #acj4--;,belaying ,pin #ajb #aca4--,toggle #ajc #acb4--;,another ,form of ,toggle #ajd #acc4--;,fender on ,side of ,boat #ajd #acd4--;,fender with ,ropeyarn ,heart #aje #ace4--,thimble ,side ,view #ajf #acf4--,thimble ,cross ,section #ajf #acg4--,mousing a ,hook #ajf #ach4--,stropping a ,block #ajg #aci4--,pointing a ,rope #ajh #adj4--;,another ,method of ,pointing a ,rope #ajh #ada4--,mainstay #aji #adb4--,shear-legs #aaj #adc4--,wall ,knot #aaa #add4--;,crown #aaa #ade4--;,crown ,hauled ,taut #aaa #adf4--,manrope ,knot #aab #adg4--,pointing ,end of ,yoke ,line #aab #adh4--;,fastening off ,yoke ,line #aac #adi4--,yoke ,line ,complete #aad #aej4--,stern ,ladder #aad #aea4--,round of ,stern ,ladder #aad #aeb4--,single ,rope ,ladder with ,chocks #aae #aec4--,toe ,chock for ,rope ,ladder #aaf #aed4--,rope ,ladder with ,rungs #aag #aee4--,wood ,rung #aah #aef4--,pilot ,ladder #aai #aeg4--,side ,piece of ,pilot ,ladder #abj #aeh4--;,beginning ,mat #aba #aei4--,mat ,making #abc #afj4--,netting ,needle #abe #afa4--,netting ,needle #abe #afb4--,mesh ,stick #abe #afc4--,mesh ,stick ,cross ,section #abe #afd4--,loop in ,meshing #abf #afe4--;,first ,stage in ,meshing #abf #aff4--,second ,stage in ,meshing #abg #afg4--,third ,stage in ,meshing #abg #afh4--;,chain of ,meshes #abh #afi4--;,beginning of ,cross ,netting #abi #agj4--;,hammock ,clew #abi #aga4--,rope ,lashing for ,poles and ,ledgers #acj #agb4--;,chain ,lashing for ,poles and ,ledgers #acj #agc4--,rope ,lashing for ,putlogs #acj #agd4--,poles ,lashed and ,wedged1 with ,footing #aca #age4--,slinging ,plank for ,use as ,stage #acb #agf4--;,boatswain's ,chair #acb #agg4--;,colliery ,band ,rope ,driving ,system #acd #agh4--8,marrying0 a ,wire ,rope ,splice #ace #agi4--,method of ,serving ,wire ,rope #acf #ahj4--,partly-finished ,splice #acg #aha4--,wire ,rope ready for ,splicing #acg #ahb4--,right-handed ,splice1 ,first ,tuck #ach #ahc4--,right-handed ,splice1 all ,ends ,tucked ,once #aci #ahd4--,left-handed ,splice1 ,first ,tuck #adj #ahe4--,left-handed ,splice1 all ,ends ,tucked ,once #ada #ahf4--,long ,splice1 all ,ends ready for ,tucking #ade #ahg4--,making ,round ,joint #adf #ahh4--;,half-round ,top-,swage #adg #ahi4--,wire ,rope ,clamp #adh #aij4--,link ,socket #adh #aia4--,side ,view of ,socket #adi #aib4--,socket ,opened ,out #adi #aic4--,socket in ,wire ,rope #adi #aid4--;,hooped ,winding ,rope ,socket #aej #aie4--,preparing ,bulb on ,wire ,rope ,end #aea #aif4--;,finished ,bulb on ,wire ,rope ,end #aea #aig4--,set-hammer for ,tightening ,hoops #aeb #aih4--,solid ,socket with ,closed ,ends #aeb #aii4--,solid ,socket with ,closed ,ends #aeb #bjj4--,plan of ,solid ,socket with ,open ,end #aec #bja4--;,elevation of a ,solid ,socket with ,open ,end #aec #bjb4--;,another ,elevation of a ,solid ,socket with ,open ,end #aec #bjc4--,riveted ,flat ,rope ,socket #aed #bjd4--;,cramped ,flat ,rope ,socket #aed #bje4--,socket ,cramp #aee #bjf4--,riveting ,spikes #aee #bjg4--,riveting ,spikes #aee #bjh4--,rivet #aee ,,knotting ,,and ,,splicing ,,ropes ,,and ,,cordage4 ,,chapter ,i4 ,,introduction3 ,,rope ,,formation4 ,knotting is an ancient device with which very early inhabitants of this earth must have been acquainted4 ,from the beginning1 mankind must always have used some kind of knot to join animal sinews1 plant fibres1 or hide strips which1 in ancient days1 were the prototypes of the varieties of cordage now employed4 ,a large number of knots has been invented by the skill of man1 and on their strength and correct tying depend the lives of thousands and thousands of workmen--seamen1 building trade operatives1 etc41 day by day4 ,the importance of being able to make the knot best suited for the occasion both rapidly and correctly may come in a new light to some when it is pointed out that both lives and property have over and over again been sacrificed to ill-made knots2 and this little volume is put forward in the belief that few things better repay the workman's time and trouble in learning than the manipulation of ropes and cordage4 ,cordage is used almost daily by everyone in some form or other1 but comparatively few can handle it methodically4 ,men break their nails and teeth gnawing at their own knots endeavouring to untie them1 and time and material are wasted4 ,time spent in learning a few of the simple bends and hitches1 reliable under strain and easy to unbend when the strain is released1 would never be regretted4 ,it is not necessary for a landsman to learn all the numerous uses to which rope is put1 but a knowledge of common 8bends0 is an inestimable convenience1 if not a necessity4 ,the security of a knot ought not to be1 as many seem to think1 in the number of turns or hitches in its composition1 but in the efficacy of the nip4 ,a 8bend0 or 8hitch0 must be so formed that the part of rope under strain nips some portion of the knot1 either against itself or the object to which it is attached2 and in learning a bend1 or impressing it upon one's memory1 it will be found most helpful to notice particularly the nip of each separate one as it is studied4 ,rope1 though usually of hemp1 is made of other materials for certain purposes4 ,coir rope 7cocoa-nut fibre71 being light and buoyant1 is useful for warps1 rocket lines1 life-buoy lines1 and drift-nets4 ,manilla grass is adapted for reef points1 yachts' hawsers1 and wherever tar would be injurious4 ,hide is required for wheel-ropes1 or where great strength with pliability and small circumference is needed4 ,cotton is serviceable for fancy work1 etc4 ,the 8yarns0 are formed by twisting the hemp right-handed2 the 8strands10 by twisting or laying up the yarns left-handed2 and the rope1 by laying up the strands right-handed4 ,three ropes laid up left-handed form what is known as a cable-laid rope2 four-stranded ropes are laid round a heart4 ,ropes are sometimes laid left-handed1 but if the strands are to be laid left-handed the yarns are laid right-handed4 ,if the parts of hemp1 etc41 be twisted more than is necessary to hold them together1 strength is lost4 ,upon following the course of a yarn in a rope it will be found that1 by this alternate laying1 it runs nearly straight with the direction of the rope's length4 ,a three-stranded rope will bear a greater strain in comparison with its size than any other of the same material2 cable-laid ropes and four-stranded ropes are1 roughly speaking1 about one-fifth weaker4 ,rope is measured by its circumference1 and is laid up in lengths of #aac fathoms1 sizes varying up to #bh in42 but it is not usually made up in coils when the size exceeds #e in4 ,very small ropes are distinguished by their yarns rather than their size2 thus sailors speak of nine-1 twelve-1 and eighteen-yarn stuff1 which is commonly called 8seizing stuff40 ,if the fibres of which a rope is composed were laid parallel to one another and fastened at the two ends1 the combined strength of these fibres would be utilised to the full2 in other words1 they lose strength by being twisted or 8laid up40 ,but1 on the other hand1 the length of the fibres being at most but a few feet1 their usefulness in this state is very limited1 and the inconvenience of using them so is prohibitive4 ,for this reason the fibres are first twisted into 8yarns02 these1 again1 are laid up into 8strands10 a strand being formed of several yarns2 and1 finally1 three or more strands are formed into a rope4 ,as twisting diminishes the strength of a rope1 it is important that the yarns be carefully laid up1 so as to bring an even strain on every part4 ,it should not be laid up too hard--that is1 it should only have sufficient twist in it to prevent the fibres from being drawn out without breaking4 8,hawser-laid0 ropes are made of three strands laid right-handed1 or 8with the sun10 as it is termed4 8,shroud-laid0 are made of four strands laid right-handed4 ,a 8cable-laid0 rope is made of three hawser-laid ropes laid up left-handed1 and therefore contains nine strands4 ,obviously the size of a rope is regulated by the quantity of yarns composing the strands1 and not by the number of strands that it contains4 ,with regard to the weight of ropes1 it may be said that ropes of all kinds are usually measured by their circumference4 ,the weight of clean1 dry1 hemp rope in pounds per fathom is one-fourth of the square of the circumference in inches2 for example1 a #c-;in4 hemp rope 7about #a in4 in diameter7 weighs #cbb #b lb4 per fathom 7#f ft474 ,a flat hemp rope1 with a width of about four times the thickness1 weighs in pounds per fathom about twice the square of the circumference in inches2 for example1 a #c-;in4 by -in4 flat hemp rope will weigh about #b #g #ad lb4 per fathom4 ,round wire ropes weigh in pounds per fathom seven-eighths of the square of the circumference in inches2 for example1 a #c-;in4 wire rope weighs about #cb #g lb4 per fathom4 ,a flat wire rope weighs in pounds per fathom ten times the sectional area in square inches2 for example1 a flat wire rope1 #c in4 by in4 say #b sq4 in4 area1 will weigh about #aj #b #bj lb4 per fathom4 ,the maximum safe load on a rope depends on many circumstances1 such as quality1 age and dryness of rope1 nature of load1 mode of lifting1 etc4 ,approximately1 the safe load on a new hemp rope in hundredweights with direct lift is three times the weight in pounds per fathom4 ,on a sound old rope fall one-half the square of the circumference is sufficient load4 ,a ,bessemer steel wire rope will safely carry in hundredweights three times the square of its circumference in inches1 and a crucible steel wire rope four times the square of its circumference4 ,for hemp ropes the minimum diameter of sheave should be circumference of rope #b1 and for wire ropes the diameter of sheave in inches should be equal to circumference of rope in sixteenths4 ,the principle of rope making is very readily shown by holding the ends of a piece of twine or whipcord1 about a foot long1 in the hands and twisting it so as to increase the lay4 ,if the twine be now slackened by bringing the hands nearer to one another1 a loop will first form in the middle of the twine1 and it will continue to twist itself up into a compact cord which will not unlay1 as the tension to which the strands have been subjected causes friction between them1 which holds them together4 ,in other words1 the tendency of each part singly to unlay1 acting in opposite directions1 is the means of keeping them together when joined4 ,some very interesting experiments were made by ,raumur1 the purposes of which were to ascertain the loss of strength occasioned by laying up the fibres of various substances1 one or two of which are given4 #a4 ,a thread1 consisting of #hcb fibres of silk1 each of which carried #a dram and #ah grains1 broke with a weight of #e lbs41 though the sum of the absolute strength of the fibres is #ajd drams1 or upwards of #h lbs4 #b oz4 #b4 ,three threads were twisted together1 their mean strength being nearly #h lbs4 ,they broke with #ag lbs41 whereas they should have carried #bd lbs4 ,these experiments prove that though convenience and portability are gained by twisting the fibres1 there is a great loss in the strength of the resultant rope4 ,in speaking of the size of a rope1 the circumference and not the diameter is alluded to4 ,thus1 a three-inch rope would be slightly less than an inch in diameter4 ,in practising knotting it is as well to use a tolerably firm material1 such as whipcord1 for small common knots1 or1 still better1 line used for sea fishing4 ,either can be tied up and undone over and over again without injuring it1 which is not the case with twine2 it is also more easy to see which way the parts of a knot lie in the harder material1 and then to find out whether the turns are properly made or not4 ,for more complicated knots1 particularly those where the strands of the rope have to be unlaid to form the knot1 such as a wall knot 7p4 #ff7 or a ,matthew ,walker 7p4 #gj71 it is advisable to use three strands of fishing line1 each about a foot long4 ,if a 8seizing0 7a seizing is shown in ,fig4 #eg1 p4 #ea7 be put round them in the centre1 so as to hold them firmly together1 a good representation of a rope with the strands unlaid ready for working is obtained4 ,a knot can be made and unmade as often as required in this way1 without detriment to the strands2 but the strands of a rope1 owing to their loose nature1 will seldom bear knotting more than once or twice4 ,if desired1 the knots can be made as above described and kept for future reference4 ,in string also it is better to use hard laid stuff at first1 but when these matters are thoroughly understood knots can be made on any sort of cordage without difficulty4 ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,,simple ,,and ,,useful ,,knots4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #a4--,overhand ,knot4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #b4--;,fourfold ,overhand ,knot1 ,loose and ,taut4 ,the simplest knot that is made is the overhand knot 7,fig4 #a74 ,it is very useful1 and forms a part of many other knots4 ,to make it1 the standing part of the rope--that is1 the main part in opposition to the end--is held in the left hand1 and the end of the rope is passed back over it 7whence its name7 and put through the loop thus formed4 ,it is used at the end of a rope to prevent the strands unlaying1 and sometimes in the middle of a rope as a stopper knot4 ,if the end of the rope is passed through the 8bight0 or loop two1 three1 or more times before hauling it taut1 the double1 treble1 or fourfold knot1 ,a 7,fig4 #b71 is obtained4 ,this is a larger knot than ,fig4 #a1 and is often used on the thongs of whips1 being then termed a blood knot4 ,b 7,fig4 #b7 shows the knot hauled taut4 ,fig4 #a also goes by the name of the ,staffordshire knot1 as it forms the insignia of the county4 ,a ,flemish or figure-of-eight knot is shown by ,fig4 #c4 ,to make it1 pass the end of the rope back1 over1 and round the standing part1 and up through the first bight4 ,the ,flemish knot is used for much the same purposes as the preceding knots1 but is rather more ornamental4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #c4--;,figure-of-eight ,knot4 ,the bight of a rope is the loop formed when a rope is bent back on itself1 in contradistinction to the ends4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #d4--,sailor's ,knots or ,reef ,knots4 ,the conditions under which the ends of two pieces of cordage have to be joined together are various1 and several methods are brought into requisition2 but it is always of considerable importance that the most suitable knot be employed in each case4 ,the value of some knots consists in the rapidity with which they can be made1 of others in the readiness with which they can be undone2 but it is an essential that the knot holds firmly and does not slip when once hauled taut4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #e4--,reef ,knot1 ,half-made4 ,the commonest knot for joining the ends of two ropes1 and probably the knot that is most often made1 is the sailor's1 true1 or reef knot 7,figs4 #d and #e74 ,when correctly made it is as perfect as a knot can be4 ,it can be made and undone with equal rapidity1 and is very secure when taut4 ,its one disadvantage is that it will not answer when made with ropes of different sizes1 as it then slips and comes adrift1 but where the two pieces of cordage are of the same size it is most secure and reliable1 the strain being equally distributed on every part4 ,it requires a little practice to make it properly4 ,to do this1 take an end in each hand and lay one over the other1 the right end being undermost2 bring the left-hand end under the standing part of the right end1 as shown at ,a 7,fig4 #e71 and over the end at ,b1 round it1 and up through the bight at ,c4 ,the key to the knot is the putting of the right end under the left when the two ends are crossed at the beginning of the knot1 as the left-hand end then comes naturally first over and then round the other rope1 and the ends lie parallel with the standing parts1 as at ,a 7,fig4 #d74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #f4--;,granny or ,lubber's ,knot4 ,if the ends are not passed correctly1 a granny1 lubber's1 or calf knot results4 ,this is shown in ,fig4 #f4 ,though at first sight this seems to be a good knot1 yet it is not so in reality1 and when any strain comes upon it1 it slips and becomes useless4 ,fig4 #g is a granny knot1 as it appears when hauled upon4 ,it is considered a very lubberly thing to make a granny knot1 and readers should practise until they can make a true knot rapidly and with certainty in any position4 ,the sailor's knot is invariably used for reefing sails1 the ease with which it can be undone making it very valuable for this purpose4 ,it is only necessary to take hold of the two parts on each side just outside the knot and bring the hands together1 and the loops slip over one another1 as in ,fig4 #d1 and the knot can be opened at once4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #g4--;,granny ,knot1 ,taut4 ,this knot has a curious peculiarity which is not generally known4 ,if the end of one of the ropes is taken in one hand and the standing part of the same rope in the other1 and both are hauled until the rope is straight1 the knot becomes dislocated1 so to speak1 and the rope not hauled upon forms a hitch1 ,b 7,fig4 #d71 round the other part4 ,this property was the secret of ,hermann's celebrated trick1 8the knotted handkerchiefs40 ,after the handkerchiefs1 knotted together at the corners1 were returned to him by the audience1 under pretence of tightening the knots still more1 he treated each knot as has been described4 ,the knots seemed firm1 but really were loosened so that a touch with his wand separated them easily4 ,the common bow or rosette knot is a modification of the sailor's knot4 ,the first part of the process of making it is the same1 but instead of passing one end singly over and under the other1 as in the sailor's knot1 both ends are bent back on themselves1 and the double parts worked as before4 ,care must be taken to pass these doubled ends exactly as those described in the sailor's knot1 or a granny bow will result4 ,some persons' shoes always come untied1 the reason being that they are tied with granny instead of true bows4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #h4--,overhand ,rosette ,knot or ,bow4 ,another way of joining the ends of two pieces of cordage is shown in ,fig4 #h4 ,this is merely an overhand knot1 made with two ropes instead of one4 ,sometimes it is called an openhand knot4 ,it can be made very quickly1 and there is no fear of its slipping1 but if there is much strain put upon it the rope is very apt to part at the knot1 in consequence of the short 8nip10 or turn1 that it makes just as it enters the knot4 ,fig4 #i shows the weaver's knot partly made1 and ,fig4 #aj the same knot completed1 but not hauled taut4 ,weavers call this the 8thumb knot10 as it is made over the thumb of the left hand1 and is used by them in joining their 8ends0 as they break4 ,the rapidity with which they make the knot1 snip off the ends1 and set the loom going again is wonderful4 ,netters use this knot to join their twine1 and it also forms the mesh of the netting itself1 though1 of course1 it is then made in a very different way4 ,in making the weaver's knot1 the two ends to be joined are crossed in the same way as in the sailor's knot1 placing the right end under1 and holding them with the thumb and finger of the left hand at the place where they cross4 ,the standing part of the right-hand rope is then brought back over the thumb and between the two ends1 as shown in ,fig4 #i4 ,the end ,a is then bent down over it1 and held with the left thumb1 while the knot is completed by hauling on ,b4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #i4--,weaver's ,knot1 ,half-made4 ,an excellent way of joining two ropes is illustrated by ,fig4 #aa4 ,the ends are laid alongside one another1 overlapping each sufficiently to give room for the knot to be made4 ,the double parts are then grasped in each hand and an overhand knot is formed1 which is made taut by hauling on both parts at once1 as if the knot were single4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aj4--,weaver's ,knot1 ,closed4 ,though the above is the easiest way to make the knot1 it is not available where the ropes are fast4 ,in this case a simple knot is made on the end of one rope1 but not drawn taut4 ,the end of the other rope is passed through the bight of the first1 and a second loop formed with it alongside the first4 ,the knot is closed by drawing the two ropes as before4 ,this is in every way an excellent knot1 and very secure4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aa4--,overhand ,knot ,joining ,two ,ropes4 ,fig4 #ab shows the ends of two ropes joined by means of a ,flemish knot4 ,it does not require much description1 and is made after the manner of the knot last described4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ab4--;,flemish ,knot ,joining ,two ,ropes4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ac4--;,fisherman's ,knot4 ,the fisherman's knot 7,fig4 #ac7 derives its name from the fact that it is always used for joining silkworm gut for fishing purposes4 ,in making it1 the strands are made to overlap one another1 and an overhand knot is made with one end round the other strand4 ,the strands are turned round1 and another overhand knot made with the other end round the first strand4 ,when the knot is tightened by hauling on the standing parts1 one knot jams against the other and holds securely4 ,the knot is improved by putting the ends twice through their respective loops1 as at ,a 7,fig4 #b1 p4 #ae74 ,the size of the knot is increased by this means1 but it will stand a much heavier strain1 so that it is advisable to do this whenever the size of the knot is not of paramount importance4 ,the whipcord knot 7,fig4 #ad7 is used to fasten the lash to a whip4 ,the lash ,b is laid across the ends of the thong ,a which are turned up over it4 ,the lash is brought completely round the thong and through the loop it makes1 which secures the ends of the thong firmly4 ,if a silk lash is used1 the short end is cut off1 but if whipcord1 the two ends are generally twisted together for a few inches1 as at ,b1 and an overhand knot made with one end round the other1 to secure them4 ,the remaining part is left somewhat longer1 and another overhand knot at the end prevents it from unravelling4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ad4--,whipcord ,knot4 ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,,eye ,,knots1 ,,hitches1 ,,and ,,bends4 ,one of the simplest eye knots is shown by ,fig4 #ae1 and is known as the 8running0 or 8slip knot40 ,a bight is first formed1 and an overhand knot made with the ends round the standing part4 ,the last named may be drawn through the knot1 and the eye made to any size required4 ,there is less chance of the knot coming undone if an overhand knot is made on the end ,a4 ,with this knot a sailor ties his neck-handkerchief4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ae4--,running ,knot4 ,fig4 #af is the 8fisherman's eye knot40 ,a bight is first made of sufficient length1 and an overhand knot formed with the standing part round the other strand2 the end is now passed round the standing part1 and knotted as before4 ,thus there is a running knot ,a1 with a check knot ,b1 which1 when hauled upon1 jam tight against one another1 and hold securely4 ,this is one of the best knots for making an eye in fishing1 as the strain is divided equally between the two knots4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #af4--;,fisherman's ,eye ,knot4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ag4--,openhand ,eye ,knot4 ,a common way of making an eye on the end of a piece of cord is illustrated by ,fig4 #ag4 ,it is practically the same knot as ,fig4 #h 7p4 #ai71 except that only one rope is used4 ,the end is brought back along the rope to form the eye1 and an overhand knot made with the two parts4 ,this knot1 from being so easily made1 is often used1 but it lacks strength1 like the openhand knot 7,fig4 #h71 and should not be used where it is required to bear much strain4 ,it will have been noticed how very often openhand knots form the component parts of other knots4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ah4--;,flemish ,eye ,knot4 ,fig4 #ah is an eye made with a 8,flemish0 knot4 ,it is worked just the same as a single ,flemish knot 7,fig4 #ab1 p4 #bb71 the only difference being that two parts are used instead of one4 ,it is stronger1 but clumsier1 than the one just described1 and is not much used4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ai4--;,crabber's ,eye ,knot4 ,the 8crabber's knot0 7,fig4 #ai7 is a curious and not very well known knot1 but it is unlikely to part when strained4 ,to make it1 bring the end back to form a loop1 taking it first under and then over the standing part1 up through the main loop1 over the standing part again1 and up through its own bight4 ,before the turns are hauled into their places1 the knot will slip on the part ,a1 as in an ordinary slip knot2 but if the part ,b is hauled upon1 the strand ,a1 which passes through the centre of the knot1 rises1 and the coil which goes round it jams1 making the knot secure3 so that it may be used as a running knot or otherwise1 as desired4 ,this is also called a running knot with crossed ends4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bj4--;,bowline ,knot4 ,the 8bowline knot0 7,fig4 #bj7 cannot slip1 and is therefore always used for slinging a man for the purpose of doing some particular piece of work2 the workman sits in the sling4 ,the end is first laid back over the standing part1 so as to form a loop2 the end is then passed up through the loop1 round the back of the standing part1 and down through the loop again4 ,hauling on the end and the standing part makes the knot taut4 ,a modification of this knot1 called a 8,bowline on a ,bight10 is shown by ,fig4 #ba4 ,the loop is made as in the previous knot1 only with the two parts of a doubled rope2 the bight is then passed up through the loop1 opened1 and turned backwards over the rest of the knot1 when it appears as illustrated4 ,to untie it1 draw the bight of the rope up until it is slack enough1 and bring the whole of the other parts of the knot up through it1 when it will readily come adrift4 ,if the standing parts of the rope are held fast1 it puzzles the uninitiated to undo it4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ba4--,running ,bowline on ,bight4 ,a 8,running ,bowline0 has the knot made on the end after it has been passed round the standing part1 thus forming a loop through which the main rope will run4 ,two ropes may be joined together by making a bowline in the end of one of them1 and putting the end of the other through the bight1 and forming with it another bowline on its own part4 ,this is often used to join hawsers together4 ,illustration3 ,figs4 #bb and #bc4--,running ,knot with ,two ,ends1 ,loose and ,fastened4 ,fig4 #bb shows a method of making a rope fast to a post or pillar4 ,the rope is doubled and passed round the post1 and the ends put through the loop4 ,for greater security1 the ends may be passed round the standing part and through the bight thus formed1 as in ,fig4 #bc2 or1 instead of passing the cords through the bight1 a loop may be formed by doubling the ends1 and this loop put through the bight1 thus forming a slippery hitch4 ,this knot has the advantage of being more readily undone than the other one1 as it is necessary merely to pull at the ends1 and the rope is released at once4 ,the ends may also be secured by making a ,flemish knot on them1 instead of an overhand knot4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bd4--,two ,half ,hitches4 ,the remainder of this chapter will discuss a different class of fastenings4 ,it is not easy to state1 however1 where knots end and bends and hitches begin2 indeed1 a tie that1 in certain circumstances and made a particular way1 is called a 8knot10 differently constructed1 and under other conditions1 is called a 8bend0 or 8hitch10 though the result is the same in both cases4 ,as an illustration1 take two half-hitches 7,fig4 #bd71 which1 if made in another way round a pole1 are called a 8builder's knot40 ,if readers will analyse the knots illustrated throughout this book1 they will find several other similar instances4 ,a 7,fig4 #bd7 is a single hitch1 being merely a loop formed in a rope4 ,this is readily done by holding the rope in the left hand1 and giving it a twist with the right2 the loop then forms itself1 as it were4 ,when a tightly laid piece of cordage is twisted1 these loops are apt to rise and form 8kinks10 which are very objectionable1 as the cord is sure to part at the kink when a strain is put on it4 ,it is still worse in the case of wire1 which breaks readily when kinked4 ,tight1 hard cordage should always be well stretched before it is used1 to avoid kinking4 ,two half-hitches 7,fig4 #bd7 are a useful knot for a variety of purposes1 as they are quickly made1 and will not slip1 no matter what strain is put upon them--indeed1 the more they are hauled upon the faster they hold4 ,they are the best means of making a rope fast to a hook4 ,first one hitch is slipped on1 and then the other on the top of it1 and the rope is fast in less than two seconds4 ,this knot is used by surgeons in reducing a dislocation of the thumb joint4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #be4--;,builder's ,knot4 ,fig4 #be is the builder's knot1 merely two half-hitches1 but as it is used in places where the hitches cannot be passed over the ends of the timber it is made by holding one end in the left hand1 passing the rope round the pole1 under the end1 round the pole again1 above the first part1 and under its own part2 from its non-liability to slip laterally this knot is always used to fasten one pole to another in fitting up scaffolding1 from which circumstance it has acquired its name4 ,if1 instead of beginning the knot as in ,fig4 #be1 the end is passed1 after it has gone round the pole1 two or three times round the other part1 as in ,fig4 #b 7p4 #ae71 the remainder of the knot is rather more easily made1 as it holds itself taut1 and will not slip while the end is put round to complete the fastening4 ,a 8builder's double knot0 is made in the same way1 except that the end goes round again1 as before1 and underneath its own part1 so making it much stronger4 ,when a builder's knot is made on a rope for the purpose of securing a small line to a stout rope1 it is called a 8clove-hitch40 ,the 8timber hitch0 7,fig4 #bf7 is a rough and ready way of securing a piece of timber or anything similar2 it is made by bringing the end of a rope round the timber1 then round the standing part1 and then1 taking two or more turns1 round its own part4 ,the pressure of the coils one over the other holds the timber securely1 and the more it is hauled on the tighter it holds4 ,it can be cast off readily4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bf4--,timber ,hitch4 ,fig4 #bg is the 8killick hitch10 a modification of the timber hitch1 used for fastening a stone to the end of a rope4 ,after making a timber hitch and hauling it taut1 a single hitch is made1 and slipped over the end of the stone alongside of it4 ,some of the best fishing grounds are on rocky coasts where an anchor would not hold2 and if it did1 there might be considerable risk of losing it altogether1 from its jamming in the crevices of a rock4 ,in these places a killick1 or large stone1 slung as shown in ,fig4 #bg1 is used1 which holds the boat by its own weight1 without any risk of getting fast to the ground4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bg4--,killick ,hitch4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bh4--,magnus ,hitch4 ,the 8magnus hitch0 7,fig4 #bh7 is a method of securing a rope to a spar1 as there is but little tendency to slip endways along the spar4 ,in making it1 take the end of the rope twice round the spar1 in front of the standing part1 round the spar again1 and then through the last bight4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bi4--;,fisherman's ,bend4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cj4--,rolling ,hitch4 ,the 8fisherman's bend0 7,fig4 #bi7 consists of two round turns round a spar1 and a half-hitch round the standing part1 and through the turns on the spar1 and another half-hitch above it1 round the standing part4 ,it is used for bending studdingsail halliards to the yard1 and1 in yachts1 for bending on the gaff topsail halliards4 ,a 8rolling hitch0 7,fig4 #cj7 is made by taking three round turns round a spar1 and then making two half-hitches round the standing part of the rope1 and hauling taut4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ca4--,topsail ,halliard ,bend4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cb4--,racking ,hitch4 ,the 8topsail halliard bend0 7,fig4 #ca7 is used chiefly on board yachts1 and is made by bringing the rope twice round the spar1 back round the standing part1 under all the turns1 over two turns1 and under the last4 ,this hitch is shown open for the sake of clearness1 but in practice it is usual to jam the coils close together1 and haul them all taut4 ,fig4 #cb is a 8racking hitch10 for hitching a rope on to the hook of a block4 ,two bights are made in a rope1 these are turned over from the operator two or three times1 and the two loops are put on to the hook4 ,this is sometimes called a 8cat's paw40 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cc4--,slippery ,hitch4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cd4--;,carrick ,bend4 ,the value of the 8slippery hitch0 7,fig4 #cc7 consists in the readiness with which it can be cast off in case of emergency2 at the same time1 it holds securely while there is a strain on the rope ,a4 ,if the mainsheet of small boats is made fast at all1 always a more or less risky proceeding1 a slippery hitch should always be used as a start4 ,a sharp pull at the end of the rope lets the sheet go at once4 ,for the 8carrick bend0 7,fig4 #cd7 lay the end of a rope over the standing part to form a loop2 put the end of another rope under the bight over the standing part at ,a1 under the end at ,b1 over the rope again at ,c1 under its own part1 and over the rope ,b1 and haul taut4 ,the parts ,a and ,b form the first loop made4 ,this bend generally is used for binding hawsers together1 to increase their length for warping or towing4 ,it can be undone readily without the aid of a pricker or marlinespike1 which would have to be used for many knots after they had been in the water4 ,as in the sailor's knot1 it is only necessary to grasp the ropes just outside the knot1 and push the loops inwards1 and the knot comes adrift at once4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ce4--;,bending ,sheet to ,clew of ,sail4 ,fig4 #ce shows the clew of a sail1 and the method of bending the sheet on to it4 ,this is termed a 8sheet bend40 ,the sheet is not1 as many suppose1 a part of the sail1 but is a rope used in setting a sail1 to keep the clew or lower corner of the sail down to its place4 ,in making a sheet bend1 the end is passed up through the clew1 round the back of it1 under its own part1 and over the clew again4 ,the end is generally stopped to the standing part with rope-yarn or other small stuff4 ,the knot thus formed is exactly the same as the weaver's knot 7,fig4 #aj1 p4 #ba74 ,fig4 #cf shows a method of giving additional security to this knot4 ,the end is passed twice round the back of the loop before putting it under its own part4 ,this knot is very much used by fishermen in bending a line on to a loop of gut4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cf4--,more ,secure ,sheet ,bend4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cg4--;,bending ,rope to ,loop4 ,another and somewhat more complicated method of bending a rope on to a loop is illustrated by ,fig4 #cg4 ,b is the standing part1 and ,a the end of the rope to be bent on a loop already formed4 ,pass the end down through the loop1 round over its own part1 and through the loop1 round the back of it1 and through its own bight4 ,when hauled taut1 this holds more securely than either of the other methods1 but1 on the other hand1 takes longer to make4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ch4--;,blackwall ,hitch4 ,the 8,blackwall hitch0 7,fig4 #ch7 is a ready way of securing a rope temporarily to a hook4 ,the method of making it is evident from the illustration4 ,as the standing part when hauled upon jams the end against the back of the hook1 it holds much more firmly than would be supposed at first sight4 ,the 8midshipman's hitch0 7,fig4 #ci7 is an old-fashioned hitch1 used for attaching a tail-block to a rope4 ,a round turn is first made over the standing part1 and the end is brought up1 passed twice round above the first hitch1 and then passed out underneath its own part4 ,the 8marlinespike hitch0 7,fig4 #dj7 is used for getting a purchase on the seizing stuff when serving a rope1 so as to leave the turns taut4 ,make a bight in the seizing stuff1 and bring it back over the standing part2 pass the marlinespike under the standing part1 and over the sides of the bight4 ,this is practically identical with the running knot 7,fig4 #ae1 p4 #bd74 ,seizing is described on p4 #if4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ci4--,midshipman's ,hitch4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #dj4--,marlinespike ,hitch4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #da4--,regulating ,lashing4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #db4--,stationer's ,knot4 ,fig4 #da is a 8regulating lashing10 used when the tension of a rope requires altering from time to time4 ,tent ropes are secured this way1 as they require easing in wet weather1 and tightening in dry4 ,for this purpose1 the piece of wood ,a is slipped up or down the cord1 the friction of the cord against the sides of the hole fixing it sufficiently4 ,the 8stationer's knot0 7,fig4 #db7 is handy for tying up a parcel1 as it can be made rapidly1 and undone with ease4 ,make a running noose at the end of a piece of twine1 and bring it to the centre of the parcel2 take the twine round the parcel again at right angles1 round the noose1 and making a bight slip it under1 as illustrated4 ,a pull at the end releases the knot instantly1 as can be proved by experiment4 ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,,ring ,,knots ,,and ,,rope ,,shortenings4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #dc4--,slippery ,ring ,knot4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #dd4--;,boat ,knot4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #de4--,lark ,boat ,knot4 ,often it is necessary to fasten a rope to a ring1 and there are a variety of methods of doing this4 ,fig4 #dc1 for instance1 shows the end to be passed through the ring1 and a bight put under the standing part2 this is a ready way of temporarily fastening the painter of a boat to the ring of a pier2 as in the stationer's knot 7,fig4 #db1 p4 #da71 a sharp pull at the end of the rope frees the painter at once4 ,this is an excellent fastening for many purposes4 ,the 8boat knot0 7,fig4 #dd7 is another means of mooring a small boat4 ,it is made in the same way as a marlinespike hitch 7,fig4 #dj1 p4 #dj71 the only difference being that a thowl pin or other small piece of wood is put through the centre of the knot instead of a marlinespike4 ,by withdrawing the pin the knot comes adrift of its own accord4 ,fig4 #de is another form of boat knot1 called the 8lark boat knot10 or 8double boat knot40 ,this differs from the last knot1 inasmuch as a bight1 instead of a single end of rope1 is put through the ring2 a piece of wood is used to fasten it1 as in the boat knot4 ,it is rather the better knot of the two4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #df4--,lark's ,head4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #dg4--,lark's ,head ,stoppered4 ,if1 instead of the ends being brought down outside the bight after it has been passed through the ring1 they are put through it1 a 8single lark's head0 7,fig4 #df7 is the result1 and ,fig4 #dg shows the same knot 8stoppered40 ,it may be made by passing a bight through the ring1 and drawing the two parts of the rope through the bight2 or where this is not practicable by reason of one end of the rope being fast1 the end may be passed up through the ring behind the standing part1 and down through the ring and bight again4 ,sometimes1 instead of stoppering this knot with an overhand knot1 as in ,fig4 #dg1 the end is seized to the standing part with twine4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #dh4--,lark's ,head with ,crossed ,ends4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #di4--;,double ,lark's ,head4 ,a 8lark knot0 with crossed ends 7,fig4 #dh7 is made in the manner above described1 except that the end comes over instead of through the bight4 ,the ends are often stoppered as in the last knot4 ,if the standing part is taken in one hand and the end in the other1 and drawn apart1 it is nothing more than a 8clove-hitch0 or 8builder's knot0 7,fig4 #be1 p4 #ca7 under a different name4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ej4--,treble ,lark's ,head4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ea4--;,backhanded ,sailor's ,knot4 ,in the 8double lark's head0 7,fig4 #di7 a bight is first made1 and the ends passed through it2 the ends are then put through the ring and through the loop just made and hauled taut4 ,fig4 #ej shows the 8treble lark's head10 which is not so difficult as it looks4 ,first bring the bight of a rope up through the ring1 take one of the ends1 and pass it through the bight1 and up through the ring1 and then down through its own bight2 do the same with the other part and the knot is formed4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #eb4--;,capstan ,knot4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ec4--;,another ,form of ,sailor's ,knot4 ,in ,fig4 #ea is illustrated a 8backhanded sailor's knot10 made by passing an end through the ring round at the back of the standing part and through the ring again1 and finishing with two half-hitches round the standing part4 ,it may also be made with the end in the last turn put under the standing part and under its own part4 ,fig4 #eb is the 8capstan knot40 ,to make this1 cross the end of the rope after it is through the ring1 bring it round the standing part1 through the first bight and through its own bight1 thus forming a sort of figure-of-eight knot4 ,another 8sailor's knot10 composed of two half-hitches round the standing part of the rope1 is shown by ,fig4 #ec4 ,this is one of the most useful and easily-made knots known1 and is used as a mooring knot4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ed4--;,gunner's ,knot4 ,a 8gunner's knot0 7,fig4 #ed7 is simply a 8carrick bend0 7,fig4 #cd1 p4 #cf71 made with the two ends of a rope after it has been passed through two rings4 ,gunners themselves call this a 8delay knot40 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ee4--;,beginning ,artillery ,knot4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ef4--;,artillery ,knot ,finished4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #eg4--;,bend ,shortening4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #eh4--;,chain ,knot4 ,the knot shown in ,figs4 #ee and #ef is called 8manharness10 or the 8artilleryman's knot10 and is used when hauling guns over a difficult country1 when horses cannot be employed4 ,it is a valuable knot where heavy weights have to be drawn with ropes1 as by its use a man can exert his strength to much greater advantage than by merely grasping the rope with his hands4 ,to make it1 form a half-hitch1 turn it round1 and lay it against the standing part4 ,this is1 in fact1 a marlinespike hitch1 and is represented in ,fig4 #dj1 p4 #dj4 ,now pass the right hand into the bight ,c1 and going under ,a1 as shown in ,fig4 #ee1 grasp the part ,b1 and draw it through ,c until a loop of sufficient size is made4 ,when using it1 the head and one arm are passed through the loop illustrated in ,fig4 #ef1 which shows the knot finished4 ,a little care is required in closing the knot1 so that the turns may jam properly one against the other1 or the knot will slip4 ,when several men are employed1 a bowline is generally made at the end of the rope1 and as many loops as there are men to haul at equal distances along it4 ,it frequently happens that a rope is too long for its purpose1 and as it is inadvisable and wasteful to cut it1 some method of reducing its length has to be devised2 hence have arisen what are termed 8shortenings40 ,the 8loop0 or 8bend0 shortening 7,fig4 #eg7 is the simplest of these4 ,the rope is merely bent as much as is required1 so as to form two bights1 and the two parts seized together with small stuff4 ,this is a simple and good method of shortening ropes4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ei4--;,beginning ,chain ,knot4 ,the 8chain knot0 7,fig4 #eh7 is another method of shortening ropes4 ,in beginning it1 make a running knot 7,fig4 #ei71 and draw a portion of the part ,a through the loop ,b2 do this with the forefinger and thumb of the left hand4 ,it will now form another loop1 through which a fresh piece of ,a is to be passed4 ,this process is to be repeated until all the slack of the rope is taken up4 ,finish it off by putting a piece of stick or a belaying-pin through the last loop1 or by drawing the end itself up through the bight4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fj4--,twist ,knot4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fa4--;,beginning ,twist ,knot4 ,the 8twist knot0 7,fig4 #fj7 is another shortening4 ,place the cord to be shortened as in ,fig4 #fa1 bring one of the outside parts over the middle strand1 and the outer strand on the opposite side is brought over this1 which is now the middle part4 ,this is continued as long as required1 the outside strand alternately being placed over the centre strand1 as in an ordinary three-plait4 ,fig4 #fj shows the plait completed1 and the manner of finishing off the end4 ,these shortenings are ornamental as well as useful4 ,they may be used for thickening a piece of small cord1 so as to give more substance where it has to be hauled upon1 and thus prevent the hand being cut with the cord4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fb4--,sheepshanks4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fc4--,sheepshanks ,fastened4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fd4--,sheepshanks ,knotted4 ,fig4 #fb is the 8sheepshanks0 or 8dogshanks0--a common and old-fashioned method of shortening1 applicable to any size of cordage4 ,the twist and chain knots are not suitable for very stout rope4 ,two bights are formed in the rope1 as in ,fig4 #fa2 a half-hitch is then made at each end1 and slipped over the bights4 ,this is made more secure if a seizing is put round the two parts1 ,a1 ,b 7,fig4 #fb74 ,it can also be secured when ends of rope are free by passing each end through the adjoining bight1 as shown in ,fig4 #fc4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fe4--,sheepshanks ,knotted4 ,fig4 #fd is a 8knotted sheepshanks40 ,it differs from the last in that the ends are fastened rather differently4 ,the two bights are made as before1 and each end1 after passing through the bight nearest to it1 is put through the bight it has just made1 thus forming an overhand knot at each end4 ,in making ,fig4 #fe1 the parts of the rope are arranged as before4 ,a marlinespike hitch 7,fig4 #dj1 p4 #dj7 is made at each end and the bight put through it4 ,the left side of ,fig4 #fe shows the knot made1 and the bight in the act of being passed through it4 ,it goes over the outside strand1 under the centre one1 and over the next4 ,on the right side of the figure the loop is shown in its place1 ready to be hauled taut4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ff4--;,boat ,knot ,shortening or ,sheepshanks ,toggled4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fg4--,knot ,shortening4 ,the 8boat-knot0 shortening 7,fig4 #ff7 is another form of sheepshanks4 ,the ends are secured by bringing a portion of the loose part of the rope through the bight at each end1 and toggling it with a belaying-pin or piece of wood1 as in the boat knot 7,fig4 #dd1 p4 #dd74 ,it is loosened readily1 and can be made when both ends are fast4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fh4--;,beginning ,knot ,shortening4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fi4--;,double ,chain ,knot4 ,the 8knot0 shortening 7,fig4 #fg7 is a ready mode of taking up the slack of a rope1 though it is not suitable for very stout ropes1 and can be made only where one end of the rope is free4 ,the rope is laid as at ,fig4 #fh4 ,the three parts are grasped with both hands near the bights1 and an overhand knot is formed with the whole of the strands4 ,it forms a good shortening for moderate-sized cordage1 where the strain is not too heavy4 ,the 8double chain knot0 7,fig4 #fi7 is perhaps the most ornamental knot of this group4 ,a turn is first taken round the standing part1 and the loose end is then passed through the loop thus formed at ,a4 ,in doing this another loop ,b is made1 through which the end is brought4 ,the end is thus continually passed from one side to the other through the preceding loop until the knot is of the proper length4 ,it may be finished1 if desired1 by making an overhand knot with the end over its own part1 or merely passing it through the last loop1 and hauling on it4 ,,chapter ,v4 ,,ties ,,and ,,lashings4 ,a 8wedding knot0 or tie1 used for fastening together the eyes at the ends of two ropes1 is shown by ,fig4 #gj4 ,it is made by passing rope-yarn or marline through the eyes backwards and forwards until strong enough1 and then is fastened by taking several turns round the middle and fastening the ends with a reef knot4 ,this forms a sort of hinge between the ropes4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #gj4--,wedding ,knot4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ga4--;,chain ,knot ,lashed to ,spar4 ,the 8chain knot10 for lashing to a spar is illustrated by ,fig4 #ga2 a clove-hitch is first formed round the spar1 and as many single hitches as required are then made4 ,it may be finished off with any secure knot4 ,fig4 #gb shows another and better way of making the chain knot4 ,an overhand knot is formed at each turn1 and consequently it is much more secure than ,fig4 #ga4 ,this is used for bending yachts' sails to the gaff4 ,as each turn forms a knot if the cord parts1 the remainder holds firm1 and does not necessarily come adrift1 as it would be almost sure to do it if fastened as in ,fig4 #ga4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #gb4--;,improved ,chain ,knot4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #gc4--;,cross ,lashing4 ,fig4 #gc is a 8cross lashing10 employed when a lever is used to a rope4 ,after several turns round the rope1 the lashing is crossed round the lever and fastened with a reef knot4 ,all these lashings are used when several men are required to haul on large ropes at the same time4 ,for the 8necklace tie0 7,fig4 #gd7 several turns are taken round the spar to be joined1 then two turns round the lashings1 and it is secured with a reef knot4 ,when this is used as a lashing for shearlegs1 the crossing of the two legs puts a strain on the knot1 and effectually secures it4 ,for this purpose it is called a ,portuguese knot4 ,fig4 #ge shows a 8packing knot10 used for securing large pieces of timber together4 ,it is used near stone quarries for holding the blocks of stone on to the carriages by which they are moved4 ,fig4 #ge represents a block of granite secured to a trolley with packing knots4 ,two or three turns are made somewhat loosely with cordage round the block and its carriage2 a stout piece of wood is then inserted under the coils1 and twisted round until all the slack is taken out and the cordage is taut4 ,the end of the lever is then secured with twine to the side of the carriage1 as shown in the right side of the figure4 ,the other lashing is supposed to be all ready for tautening up4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #gd4--,necklace ,tie4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ge4--,packing ,knot4 ,it is often necessary to lash two things together without showing an external knot1 which would spoil the smoothness and neatness of the work--as1 for instance1 in whipping the two parts of a broken fishing-rod together4 ,fig4 #gf shows a common method of finishing off whipping without showing a knot4 ,lay one end forward1 as at ,a1 then pass the other end round and round a sufficient number of times1 hauling taut each time2 three or four loose turns are now made1 and the end passed under them backwards2 these are worked down into their places1 and when the ends are hauled taut and cut off the job is completed4 ,the end ,a need not come so far as shown in ,fig4 #gf1 but may be hidden under the coils4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #gf4--;,finishing off ,whipping4 ,fig4 #gg is another method of accomplishing the purpose4 ,instead of a single end1 as in the last case1 a bight of the seizing stuff is laid along the part to be whipped1 and the turns passed over it2 when these are completed the end is passed through the bight1 as at ,a4 ,the end ,b is now hauled upon to bring the bight and the end of the rope snug under the coils4 ,there are now two loops interlacing at the centre of the work1 and these cannot come undone4 ,when the ends ,a and ,b are cut off close to the turns1 the whole is fair and smooth4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #gg4--;,finishing off ,whipping4 8,nippering10 or 8packing10 is shown in ,fig4 #gh4 ,this is a method of securing two ropes together with cross turns2 these are hauled taut1 jamming the ropes together1 and are further secured by round turns over all1 with a reef knot at the ends4 ,the 8west country whipping0 7,fig4 #gi7 is an excellent method1 and deserves to be practised oftener than it is4 ,bring the middle of the material used under the part to be whipped1 raise the ends and tie an overhand knot1 lower the ends and tie another underneath2 continue tying a single knot above and below alternately1 finishing with a reef knot2 or a round turn or two may be taken and the ends may then be secured2 but a reef knot is the most usual way of fastening off this whipping4 ,this is not quite so neat-looking a method as ,figs4 #gf and #gg1 but it is very strong and trustworthy1 and is an excellent way of fastening large hooks1 such as those used for cod or conger1 on to a line4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #gh4--,nippering4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #gi4--,west ,country ,whipping4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #hj4--;,catspaw4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ha4--;,beginning ,catspaw4 ,a 8catspaw0 7,fig4 #hj7 is used for attaching a rope to a tackle hook4 ,fig4 #ha shows how to begin it4 ,a loop is made1 and laid over the standing part so as to form two bights2 these are rolled over two or three times1 and the hook inserted in them4 ,when the standing part is hauled upon1 the hooks take the form shown in ,fig4 #ga 7p4 #ei71 and will not slip4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #hb4--,securing ,block to ,rope4 ,fig4 #hb shows a way of securing a block to a rope with a selvage strop4 ,the middle of the selvage is placed against the rope1 and cross turns taken until the bights come together1 when the loop of the block is put through them4 ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,,fancy ,,knots4 ,although these knots are termed fancy knots1 they are not necessarily used for ornamental purposes1 but are often of considerable utility2 indeed1 they could hardly be done without aboard ship4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #hc4--,wall ,knot4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #hd4--,stopper ,knot4 ,one of the commonest knots of this kind is the 8wall knot02 ,fig4 #hc shows this ready for hauling taut4 ,first unlay the strands at the end of a rope and make a bight with one strand ,a2 hold this to the standing part with the thumb of the left hand1 make a loop with the next strand ,b round the end of the first strand1 and bring the remaining strand ,c round the end of the strand ,b and through the bight of ,a4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #he4--;,beginning ,crowning4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #hf4--;,crowning ,complete4 ,if the ends are taken round once more and brought up in the centre of the knot1 it is called a 8stopper knot0 7see ,fig4 #hd74 ,in this case the ends are whipped together and cut off level4 ,fig4 #hd is the stopper knot finished4 ,fig4 #he shows the crowning begun4 ,open the strands of a rope as before1 but do not put a seizing round them4 ,lay the strand ,a down over the centre of the rope1 and then bring ,b down over ,a and strand ,c over ,b and through the bight of ,a4 ,fig4 #hf shows how the strands tie when they are nearly taut4 ,the strands in ,fig4 #he are hardly in the position which they occupy when the knot is actually being made1 as they are then much snugger4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #hg4--;,beginning ,manrope ,knot4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #hh4--,manrope ,knot4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #hi4--,tack ,knot4 ,crowning is used by itself as a method of preventing the strands of a rope unlaying while in use4 ,in this case1 after crowning as above1 pass one end over the next strand in the standing part1 and under the following one4 ,do the same to each of the other strands in succession4 ,this may be repeated and the ends cut off4 ,masons1 whose ropes have to stand a good deal of knocking about1 generally use this plan2 for this reason it is called 8masons' whipping40 ,though very strong and standing hard usage well1 this is not the neatest way of finishing the ends of a rope4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ij4--;,beginning ,matthew ,walker ,knot4 ,crowning may also be used in connection with other knots4 ,for instance1 it is possible to crown first and wall afterwards1 as shown in ,figs4 #hg and #hh4 ,fig4 #hg shows the crowning in the centre of the knot hauled taut2 this is made on the end of a rope as just described4 ,now make a single wall knot under the crowning4 ,when the knot is tightened it will appear as in ,fig4 #hh1 and is called a 8manrope knot40 ,a single 8wall knot0 may be crowned after it is made2 a single wall and a single crown are the result4 ,wall again by passing one end under the part of the first walling next to it and bring it up through the same bight1 and do the same with the other two strands1 and the result is a knot with a double wall and a single crown4 ,a double-walled double-crowned1 called a 8,tack ,knot10 is made as the last knot--that is1 double-walled and single-crowned4 ,now lay the ends by the sides of those in the single crown1 and with the aid of a pricker bring them down through the double walling and they will be alongside the standing part of the rope4 ,the knot is shown completed1 with the ends cut off1 in ,fig4 #hi4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ia4--,matthew ,walker ,knot4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ib4--;,beginning ,diamond ,knot4 ,in ,fig4 #ij is shown a ,matthew ,walker knot open ready for being hauled taut4 ,after putting a seizing round the rope and unlaying the end as before1 bring one strand ,a round the rope and put it through its own bight1 the next strand ,b underneath1 through the bight of ,a and through its own bight1 and the last strand ,c underneath through both the other bights1 and lastly through its own bight4 ,fig4 #ia shows the knot completed4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ic4--;,diamond ,knot before ,hauling ,taut4 ,the 8diamond knot0 is an ornamental knot made some distance from the end of a rope2 it is therefore necessary to unlay the rope considerably more than is required for the preceding knots4 ,to form a diamond1 bring each of the three strands down alongside the standing part of the rope1 thus forming three bights1 and hold them thus with the left hand4 ,take the first strand ,a 7,fig4 #ib71 and1 putting it over the next ,b1 bring it up through the bight of the third strand ,c4 ,take the end of the second strand over the third and up through the bight of the first4 ,the last strand is brought over the first and up through the bight of the second4 ,haul taut and lay the rope up again4 ,fig4 #ib is the way the knot is begun1 showing the manner of taking the first strand4 ,fig4 #ic shows the loops in their places with the ends through them before they are hauled taut1 and ,fig4 #id shows the knot finished4 ,remember that1 after the bights are formed down the standing part1 each end successively goes over the strand next to it and up through the loop beyond4 ,this knot is the 8single diamond40 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #id4--,single ,diamond ,knot4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ie4--;,double ,diamond ,knot4 ,for a 8double diamond0 7,fig4 #ie7 make a single diamond as above1 without laying up the strands2 the ends are then made to follow the lead of the single knot through two single bights1 the ends coming out on the top of the knot4 ,the last strand passes through two double bights4 ,when the ends are hauled taut they are laid up as before4 ,the last four knots are used for the ends of lanyards1 man and ridge ropes1 yoke lines1 etc4 ,the 8shroud knot0 7,fig4 #if7 is of use in joining two ropes together1 particularly for joining a stay or shroud that has been carried away4 ,the ends of each rope are unlaid1 and placed within one another as in splicing1 the parts not unlaid being brought closely together4 ,make a wall knot 7,fig4 #hc1 p4 #ff7 with the strands of one rope round the standing part of the other rope2 turn the ropes over1 and do the same with the other set of ends1 and they will appear as in the figure4 ,open the strands1 and taper and serve them over if the job is to be particularly neat4 ,two ropes of different sizes may be twisted in this way1 and will be quite secure4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #if4--,shroud ,knot4 ,in making the 8,french shroud knot0 unlay the ends and place the two ropes with the strands intermixed as before2 bring one set of ends back on their own rope1 and make a single wall knot with the other set of strands round the bights of the first set and the standing part4 ,they can then be tapered and served as in an ordinary shroud knot4 ,for a 8spritsail sheet knot10 unlay the two ends of a rope and bring the two sets of strands together side by side2 these have to be walled together as for a common wall knot4 ,a bight is made with the first strand1 the second is put over the first1 the third over the second1 the fourth over the third1 the fifth over the fourth1 the sixth over the fifth and through the bight of the first2 they are then hauled taut4 ,crown it by laying two of the strands along the top of the knot and passing the other strands alternately over and under these two1 and afterwards hauling them taut4 ,it may be double-walled after crowning by putting the strands successively under the bights on the left of them and through the same bights1 and the ends will then come up in the right position to be crowned again4 ,this is done by following the lead of the first crowning and putting the ends through the walling as before4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ig4--;,beginning ,turk's ,head4 ,the 8buoy rope knot0 can be made on a cable-laid rope only4 ,unlay the main strands1 and take out one of the smaller strands1 of which they are composed1 from each of the large strands1 and then lay them up again4 ,the small strands that have been taken out are now single and double-walled round the rope1 and then laid along the divisions after the manner of weaving1 and their thin ends stopped with spun yarn4 ,a stop should be put round the rope with the spun yarn where the knot is to be made before it is begun1 and the walling should be right-handed4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ih4--,turk's ,head4 ,the 8,turk's ,head0 is a highly ornamental knot which1 instead of being made out of the rope itself1 is formed on the rope with a piece of small stuff4 ,a clove-hitch 7p4 #cb7 is first made on the rope 7,fig4 #ig72 this must be slack enough to allow of the extra strands which will form part of it4 ,put part ,a over strand ,b1 thus twisting the two strands2 pass the end ,c under and up through the bight that ,b now forms1 then twist again by putting ,b over ,a and run the end under and up through the bight of ,a4 ,continue twisting the strands by alternately putting one over the other1 and at each twist bring the end under and up through the bight which is underneath1 ,a at the beginning going over ,b2 the bight which ,b makes will be the under one1 and therefore the one through which the end ,c must be passed4 ,the end ,c must be much longer than illustrated as the whole knot is made with this part1 and as the knot when finished contains three groups of three strands each1 it is obvious that the length of cord used must be more than nine times the circumference of the rope round which the knot is made4 ,having made a sufficient number of twists 7the exact number depends on the size of the knot71 lay the end ,c alongside ,d1 where it comes out of the knot1 and continue following its lead through all its turns as it goes through the knot until the beginning is reached again4 ,there will now be a ,turk's head of two parts4 ,if the end is again passed through by the side of the same strand as before1 a complete ,turk's head of three parts will be formed4 ,care must be taken to keep the working strand close to and on the same side of the strand that is being followed1 or a perfect knot cannot be formed4 ,the first time round is the most difficult1 the second is easy enough4 ,of course1 the knot may consist of more parts if required1 but three is the usual number4 ,the ends do not require fastening in any way1 as in the last round they finish in the middle of the knot under the coils1 and are quite secure 7see ,fig4 #ih74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ii4--,single ,pitcher ,knot4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ajj4--;,beginning ,single ,pitcher ,knot4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aja4--,pitcher with ,rope ,handle4 ,the 8single pitcher0 knot1 known also as 8,tom ,fool's0 knot1 is shown by ,fig4 #ii4 ,form two half-hitches1 as in ,fig4 #ajj1 one lying half-way over the other4 ,with the finger and thumb of the left hand draw the part ,a down through the bight1 and with the same fingers of the right hand bring the strand ,b upwards through the bight1 under which it lies4 ,pull out the loops thus formed to a sufficient length and knot the ends together4 ,when used to supply the place of a broken pitcher handle1 the centre knot should be hauled taut1 and1 the pitcher being placed on it1 the loops are brought up to form handles4 ,to keep them in their places a lashing is put round the neck of the pitcher1 as shown in ,fig4 #aja4 ,this knot is also very useful in slinging a shot when required as a weight1 or for any other purpose4 ,in this case the centre knot is not hauled taut but left open1 forming a large loop on which the shot lies4 ,if the ends are spliced instead of knotted a three-loop knot is made4 ,this knot is used also as a trick or puzzle knot1 and from this arose its name of 8,tom ,fool's0 knot4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ajb4--;,double ,pitcher ,knot4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ajc4--;,beginning ,double ,pitcher ,knot4 ,fig4 #ajb is the 8double pitcher0 knot1 which goes also by the names of 8jury0 knot and 8true lovers'0 knot4 ,it is used as the single pitcher knot to sling a broken pitcher1 but in this case there are four loops by which to carry it instead of two4 ,in rigging a jury-mast the end of it is put through the centre of the knot before it is hauled taut2 the stays to support and steady the mast are then made fast to the bights of the knot4 ,form two half-hitches in a piece of cord1 as in ,fig4 #ajc1 then make another hitch1 which draw behind the other hitches with the inner edge overlapping the inner edge of the first hitch1 as shown in ,fig4 #ajc4 ,pass the forefinger and thumb of the left hand over strand ,a under ,b and take hold of ,c4 ,put the same fingers of the right hand under ,d over ,e and take hold of ,f4 ,take ,g between the teeth and draw the three loops out4 ,it is better to make ,g the length required at first1 as the other loops being immediately connected with the ends can be more readily adjusted as to size than the upper loop4 ,when the loops are made the right size the loose ends are spliced together with a short splice1 thus forming the fourth loop4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ajd4--;,can or ,jar in ,sling4 ,fig4 #ajd shows a ready way of slinging a can to improvise a paint pot1 to dip for water1 etc4 ,pass the end of the cord under the bottom of the can and bring the two parts over it1 and make with them an overhand knot2 open the knot1 as shown in ,fig4 #aje1 and draw the two parts down until they come round the upper edge of the can2 haul taut1 and knot them together again over the can1 as shown in ,fig4 #ajd4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aje4--;,beginning ,can ,sling4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ajf4--,shamrock ,knot4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ajg4--;,beginning ,shamrock ,knot4 ,if the ends of the shamrock knot 7,fig4 #ajf7 were spliced1 a four-looped knot would be formed4 ,though used for the same purposes as the double pitcher knot1 it is not so good as that1 being more troublesome to make and not so strong1 in consequence of the short nip of the strands in the centre of the knot4 ,fig4 #ajg shows the way of making it4 ,an overhand knot is first formed with the ends at ,a2 the end ,b is then laid across the upper loop1 brought round and under the right loop and up through the bight ,c4 ,the strand ,d1 after passing at the back of the upper loop1 is carried over the left loop and down through the bight ,e4 ,the loops are now adjusted for size and the knot hauled taut4 ,fig4 #ajh gives another way of making this knot4 ,two overhand knots intersecting one another are made on the ends1 as illustrated2 the part ,a is drawn up through the bight ,c1 and the part ,b down through the bight ,d4 ,these form the side loops1 and the top loop being pulled out the knot is completed4 ,by an extension of these methods knots may be made with any number of loops1 but the difficulty increases greatly as the loops increase1 so much so1 that many loops cannot be made except wire replaces the cord4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ajh4--;,another ,way of ,making ,shamrock ,knot4 ,the dalliance knot whose beginning is shown by ,fig4 #aji is a trick knot difficult to learn when it is merely seen rapidly made4 ,the object is to make two independent double-knots at once on a double cord4 ,double the cord so that the ends lie together2 bring the bight over the standing parts1 as shown in ,fig4 #aji1 and cross the strand ,a over the strand ,b2 they will now appear as in ,fig4 #aaj4 ,press the part ,c down between the two strands on which it lies1 and bring it up through the opening ,d1 draw it out1 and two overhand knots will be formed on the double cord4 ,while the part ,c is being drawn out through ,d1 the whole of the loop ,e must be brought up through the bight ,f2 this forms the upper knot4 ,the lower knot is made by loop ,f1 ,c forming bight at top of double cord4 ,the finished knot is practically the same as ,fig4 #af 7p4 #be74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aji4--;,beginning ,dalliance ,knot4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aaj4--,next ,stage in ,dalliance ,knot4 ,some stage performances many years ago consisted of various rope tricks4 ,in the principal one the performers were shut up in a cabinet1 and when the doors were thrown open they were found seated on two chairs tightly bound hand and foot4 ,after examining the knots1 the doors were closed and the men rang bells1 played on the tambourine1 and threw things out of a small window in the top of the cabinet4 ,on the doors being opened again directly they were found firmly tied to their chairs as before4 ,they were able to do this by means of an ingenious knot1 shown in ,fig4 #aaa4 ,to perform the trick1 two medium ropes each about #ab ft4 long are required4 ,first the openhand knot ,a 7see ,fig4 #h1 p4 #ai7 joining the two ropes is made1 the ends being passed twice through the bight to increase the size of the knot4 ,two running knots are made close up to this knot as at ,b1 ,b4 ,the knotted end of the rope is laid on the seat of a chair with the ropes passing down the back of the seat and under the chair4 ,the performer seats himself on the chair1 and1 drawing the loose ends of the ropes up in front from under it1 he passes them round and round his legs and the legs of the chair in a complicated manner4 ,he draws the knotted end from under him1 and1 putting his arms over the back of the chair1 passes his left hand down through one loop and his right hand up through the other4 ,he now turns his right hand down until the palms of both hands are together and the fingers pointing downwards ,this produces a twist in the ropes which takes up the slack and tightens the cord round the wrists4 ,the large knot being between the hands effectually hides this1 and the wrists merely appear to be as tightly bound together as they can be4 ,the performer has merely to reverse this last proceeding--that is1 to bring the right hand up again1 and so undo the twist--and his hand can be withdrawn as readily as it was put into the loop4 ,the trick requires some practice1 and the size of the loops must be regulated by the size of the performer's wrists4 ,the knots should also be so placed on the chair at the commencement that the ropes are tight when the hands are in the loops4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aaa4--;,davenport ,brothers' ,knot4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aab4--;,bellringer's ,knot4 ,fig4 #aab is the 8bellringer's knot10 but really it is a hitch and not a knot4 ,church bells have a large wheel on the axle on which they are hung1 round which the bell-rope passes2 this is done to obtain sufficient leverage to raise the bell mouth upwards when it is rung4 ,this requires a long rope1 a good portion of which lies on the belfry floor when the bell is down4 ,when the ringing is over this slack is hitched up out of the way in the manner shown4 ,the loop ,a is made near the end of the rope1 laid against the standing part1 and a hitch taken over it at about the height of a man's head4 ,the hitch should be kept quite close to the standing part1 and it will hold the loop quite securely2 at the same time a slight pull at the end releases the whole thing at once4 ,the part ,b where the rope is grasped when the bell is checked as it comes over is called the sally or tufting4 ,it is made by opening the strands and inserting short pieces of worsted1 which are afterwards trimmed until they are all of one length4 ,,chapter ,,vii4 ,,rope ,,splicing4 ,splicing is a method of joining ropes by interweaving together their strands4 ,when ropes are to run through blocks they cannot be joined by knotting1 as the knot would prevent their passing through the block4 ,in this case they are always united by splicing4 ,in driving ropes also knots are out of the question4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aac4--;,beginning ,short ,splice4 ,for the short splice1 the ends of the two ropes are unlaid for a sufficient distance1 and placed together1 as in ,fig4 #aac1 the strands of one rope going alternately between the strands of the other4 ,the two ropes are then jammed closely together4 ,the end of one rope with the strands of the other rope is now held firmly in the left hand4 ,sometimes a lashing is put round the strands to keep them down to the rope on which they lie4 ,pass the middle strand ,a over the strand of the other rope ,b which goes down to the left of it2 then bring it under ,c1 and haul taut4 ,do the same to each of the other strands in succession1 putting them over the next strand to them and under the next beyond4 ,turn the rope round and do the same to the other set of strands2 this may be repeated on both ropes4 ,care must be taken not to bring two strands up through one interval in the rope4 ,each strand should come up separately between two strands of the rope they are passed into4 ,if it is desired to taper the splice for the purpose of making it neater after the ends have been interwoven1 divide the yarns of which the strands are composed1 pass one-half as before1 and cut off the other half4 ,to bring the rope to shape again after splicing1 roll it under the foot2 if small cord has been used1 a piece of flat wood is substituted for the foot4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aad4--,marlinespike4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aae4--,pricker4 ,as the strands of a rope are tightly twisted together it requires some force to open a passage for the parts of one rope through the other4 ,for this purpose1 in the case of large ropes1 is used a marlinespike 7,fig4 #aad7 made of iron1 copper1 or hard wood4 ,copper is preferable1 as it does not rust like iron or break like wood4 ,with small stuff a steel pricker 7,fig4 #aae7 is used4 ,a fid is employed for very large ropes1 this being merely a tapered wooden pin generally made of lignum vit4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aaf4--,long ,rope ,splice4 ,the long splice illustrated by ,fig4 #aaf has advantages over a short one4 ,to make it1 unlay the ends of two ropes for a much greater distance than before and put the ends together4 ,unlay one strand ,a for some length1 and fill up the space left by its removal with the opposite strand from the other rope1 as ,b4 ,do the same with two more strands ,c ,d2 ,c is the one unlaid1 and ,d the one laid up in its place4 ,make an overhand knot with the two remaining strands ,e ,f1 taking care that the ends follow the lay of the rope and not across them4 ,divide both strands into halves and pass one-half over the next strand1 and under the following one2 do this two or three times and cut all the ends off close4 ,work the remaining two pairs of strands the same way and the splice is finished4 ,the rope should be well stretched before the ends of the strands are cut off4 ,fig4 #aag is a cut splice forming an oblong loop in the middle of a rope4 ,the end of one rope is spliced into the standing part of another1 as at ,a1 ,a 7,fig4 #aah71 so as to form an eye4 ,the end of the other rope is then spliced into the standing part of the first rope1 and the spliced parts served over4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aag4--;,cut ,splice4 ,a neat way of forming an eye at the end of a rope 7it is known as the eye splice1 ,fig4 #aai7 is by unlaying the strands and placing them on the standing part so as to form an eye1 then put one strand under the strand next to it1 and pass the next over this strand and under the second2 the last strand must go through the third strand on the other side of the rope4 ,taper them as before by halving the strands and sticking them again4 ,to make a cable splice unlay the ends of the ropes to be joined for some distance1 place them together and make a short splice4 ,leave a suitable length1 and thence reduce each strand to a long taper by gradually cutting away as many yarns as necessary2 neatly point over the taper and lay the ends in the intervals of the rope4 ,put a seizing at each end of the splice1 an end seizing at the beginning of the pointing and a stop at the end of the tails4 ,this is the best splice for cables1 as it may readily be undone4 ,another method of making a cable splice is to splice the ends in twice each way1 then to pick out the strands1 worm part of them round the cable1 and taper away the rest1 which should be marled close down2 then clap on a throat and two end seizings of ratline4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aah4--;,beginning ,cut ,splice4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aai4--;,eye ,splice4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #abj4--,splicing ,grommet4 ,in splicing cotton ropes on the ,lancashire system proceed as follows3--,short splicing the ends together is the simplest1 but would not answer for running over a small pulley or through the 8swallow0 of a block2 in this case a long splice would suffice4 ,if a small strop only is needed1 a one-strand grommet is the neatest4 ,a strand from cotton rope will not keep its lay1 or acquired spiral form1 and is therefore a very difficult material to work into a grommet4 ,practising first on hemp is advised4 ,from a piece of rope about a foot longer than the circumference of the intended grommet1 unlay a strand with care1 to prevent it losing its lay4 ,now lay up this strand into itself1 as shown in ,fig4 #abj4 ,the two ends will meet each other in the same crevice4 ,halve these ends1 and tie an overhand knot1 as shown in ,fig4 #aba1 which must not be pulled too tight1 or it will buckle-up the grommet 7this will be noticed74 ,when this knot is quite snug down in its place1 take about one-third of the yarns out of the ends with which the knot was made1 and tuck the remaining two-thirds under two strands1 missing one 7see ,fig4 #aba1 where the arrow ,d shows how to tuck the end ,a1 and arrowhead ,c shows where end ,b will come out74 ,now halve these ends1 and1 leaving one-half1 tuck the other as before2 work them in nice and snug1 put the grommet on a good stretch1 and trim off the ends4 ,if the work is well done no joint should be noticeable4 ,grommets are sometimes finished off by knotting the whole strands1 then halving them1 and tucking like a common splice4 ,this is not quite as neat1 but perhaps a trifle stronger4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aba4--;,finishing off ,grommet4 ,,chapter ,,viii4 ,,working ,,cordage4 ,seizing implies the fastening together of two ropes1 or different parts of the same rope1 with several closely placed coils of small rope1 spun yarn1 etc4 ,the several kinds of seizings take their names from the positions they occupy in a ship's rigging4 ,end seizing is a round seizing at the end of a rope4 ,throat seizing is the first seizing clapped on where ropes cross each other4 ,middle seizing is between a throat and end seizing4 ,eye seizing is a round seizing next to an eye in the rope4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #abb4--;,flemish ,eye4 ,to make a round seizing1 make a small eye in the end of the seizing stuff1 and1 after taking a turn round both parts of the rope1 reeve the ends through the eye1 take two or three turns1 and haul them taut with a marlinespike hitch 7,fig4 #dj1 p4 #dj72 pass eight or ten turns close together1 and heave taut4 ,bring the end back under these turns and out between the last two coils1 and pass another series of turns on the top of the others1 which are called riders1 and are not hove so taut as the first turns4 ,there is always one less of the riding turns than of the lower ones4 ,two cross turns sometimes are taken1 passing between the ropes to be joined and across the whole of the seizing2 the end is brought under the last turn1 hove tight1 and secured1 if large1 with a wall knot1 crossed 7,fig4 #hc1 p4 #ff71 and1 if small1 with an overhand knot1 and cut off4 ,other seizings are done in a similar way4 ,sennit is a flat rope1 made by plaiting together rope-yarn or spun yarn1 the outside yarns being brought over to the middle from each side alternately4 ,it always has an odd number of yarns1 generally from five to thirteen4 ,french sennit is braided with an even number of yarns passed over and under every other time4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #abc4--;,grommet4 ,gaskets are made of braided cordage in the same manner as sennit1 and are used for confining the sails when furled to the yards4 ,they are called arm gaskets when used at the ends of the yards4 ,bunt gaskets are used in the middle of the yard to hold the bunt of the sail1 and quarter gaskets between the middle and extremities of the yards4 ,a ,flemish eye 7,fig4 #abb7 is a form of eye made without splicing4 ,unlay one strand at the end of a rope1 and bring the two other strands1 just as they are1 against the standing part1 so as to form an eye of the size required4 ,lay up the unlaid strand in the intervals in the rope from which it has been taken1 but in the reverse way--that is1 begin at the end and keep on laying it round until it comes down the standing part and lies along with the other strands4 ,the ends are then tapered1 marled down1 and served over with small stuff4 ,an artificial eye is the end of a rope unlaid1 and the yarns of which the strands are composed are separated4 ,the yarns are now hitched round a piece of wood the size of the proposed eye4 ,they are then marled1 parcelled1 and served over4 ,a grommet 7,fig4 #abc7 is a ring of rope made by carefully unlaying one strand from a rope and cutting it off4 ,all the turns must be left in it4 ,form a ring by laying one part over the other1 taking care that the turns coincide with one another4 ,pass one end round and round1 in the lay1 until all the intervals are filled up and the ring is complete4 ,the two ends are secured as in a long splice1 first with an overhand knot1 and then by dividing the strands and passing half of them under the standing part1 and cutting off the remainder4 ,grommets are used for stropping blocks1 handles for chests1 snorters for the heel of sprits1 etc4 ,they are very often parcelled and served to make them look neater4 ,it is easier to make them if the rope from which the strands are taken is laid up hard4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #abd4--,selvagee4 ,selvagee 7,fig4 #abd7 is a number of rope-yarns fastened together4 ,to make it1 drive two nails into a piece of board at a sufficient distance from one another to form the size of selvagee required4 ,wind rope-yarn round these to form the desired thickness1 and marl them down with spun yarn4 ,they are used to form a neat stropping for blocks1 or to go round a spar to which a hook is to be fixed4 ,fig4 #abe shows how a selvagee is employed for fastening a block to a rope4 ,the middle of it is placed against the rope1 and the bights passed one over the other until they come close to the rope1 when the hook of the block is inserted4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #abe4--,selvagee fastening ,block to ,rope4 ,worming is filling the intervals between the strands of a rope by laying spun yarn or other small stuff into them4 ,this renders the rope more even and smooth for parcelling and serving4 ,the first end of the worming is securely stopped and passed along one of the divisions of the rope4 ,when it has been carried as far as it is required1 it is stopped and laid back down another interval1 and then forward along the remaining one1 and stopped at the end4 ,to estimate the quantity of serving stuff required for a given length of rope1 multiply the length of rope to be served by the number of strands in the rope1 and add one-third of the product4 ,the result is the length of serving necessary to do the work4 ,thus1 if six fathoms of three-strand rope have to be served3--7#f #c #ah7 7#ah #c #f7 #ah #f #bd4 ,thus #bd fathoms is the length of serving4 ,fig4 #abf shows at ,a how worming looks when finished4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #abf4--,worming1 ,parcelling1 and ,marling4 ,parcelling1 ,b 7,fig4 #abf71 is done by winding strips of old and generally tarred canvas smoothly round a rope in spiral turns after it has been wormed and before it is served4 ,to secure the canvas it is marled down--that is1 some marline or other small stuff is wound round it1 which is secured at every turn with a hitch1 so that each of the turns is secure and independent of each other 7see ,b1 ,fig4 #abf74 ,the proper hitch for securing the turns is shown on a larger scale in ,fig4 #gb1 p4 #fj4 ,in marling down1 the coils are not laid close to one another as in serving1 but always at some distance apart4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #abg4--,serving4 ,fig4 #abg shows the way a rope is served or covered with coils of spun yarn or other small stuff laid on quite close to one another4 ,the end of the yarn is first secured by placing it under the first two or three coils4 ,a serving-mallet 7see ,fig4 #abg71 after being placed against the rope1 has two or three turns passed round the body of it1 and another turn or two on the handle4 ,this produces sufficient friction to leave the coils taut as the mallet is worked round the rope by its handle4 ,another person is required for passing the ball of serving stuff4 ,the service must be put on against the lay of the rope4 ,a rope may be served single-handed by carrying the serving stuff on a large reel1 with a hole in its centre large enough for the rope to run through4 ,this is kept just ahead of the mallet1 and the serving stuff comes off the reel of its own accord as required4 ,when the mallet is within a few turns of the end1 the turns are taken off it by hand1 the end is put through them1 and heaved well taut4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #abh4--;,belaying4 ,a rope is belayed or made fast by cross turns round a cleat in the way shown in ,fig4 #abh4 ,the cleat is assumed to be lashed to a stay or other rope1 but it is often made fast to some part of the vessel4 ,occasionally a single hitch is put over the upper horn of the cleat to make the rope still more secure4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #abi4--;,fairleader4 ,a rope is taken at right angles from one part of a vessel to another by means of a 8fairleader0 7,fig4 #abi74 ,this is a block of wood with a hole in it big enough to allow the line to run freely through it4 ,the back of it is grooved to fit the rope it is lashed to4 ,where more than one line has to be led1 a piece of board or plank with holes through it is used4 ,a fairleader is not necessarily fastened to a rope1 but is fixed in any suitable position4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #acj4--;,belaying ,pin4 ,a belaying-pin with a rope made fast to it 7,fig4 #acj7 is the usual way of securing running rigging1 as it can be made fast and cast off so rapidly4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aca4--,toggle4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #acb4--;,another ,form of ,toggle4 ,fig4 #aca shows a method of securing ropes together by means of a toggle1 a piece of wood turned to shape and having a groove in the centre1 round which the end of a rope is spliced4 ,an eye is made in another rope by any method and the toggle slipped into it4 ,it is undone by slackening the ropes and putting the toggle through the eye1 end foremost4 ,fig4 #acb is another form of toggle1 the round piece of wood being shaped like a button4 ,it has a hole in the centre1 through which a rope is passed and the end knotted4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #acc4--;,fender on ,side of ,boat4 ,a fender 7,fig4 #acc7 protects the sides of a boat from being chafed and the paint or varnish rubbed off4 ,occasionally a fender is of wood1 which is slung over the boat's side by a lanyard reeved through a hole in the end of it1 but more often it is of canvas1 stuffed with oakum and painted4 ,fig4 #acc shows an easily made soft fender which does not need painting4 ,take a piece of ,manilla rope double the length of the fender2 unlay it1 open the strands1 and comb them down until all the yarns lie straight2 double it and clap an eye-seizing on it1 marling it down as illustrated4 ,a lanyard of small cords1 such as log-line1 is then spliced into the eye4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #acd4--;,fender with ,ropeyarn ,heart4 ,fig4 #acd shows a handsomer form of boat's fender4 ,this is made of a centre or 8heart0 of rope-yarn worked over or grafted with short pieces of rope-yarn called 8knittles0 or 8nettles02 this is a kind of weaving4 ,the nettles are first cut to the right length1 and the middle part slightly twisted4 ,they are then brought snugly round a thimble1 and a seizing put under it4 ,the heart is put into its place and the nettles laid evenly over it4 ,half of the nettles1 taken alternately1 are turned back over the eye1 the rest lying down the heart4 ,pass a turn or two of twine or marline1 called the warp or filling1 round the fender where the nettles separate1 and hitch it4 ,the turned back nettles must now be brought down1 and those that are down turned up over the eye4 ,the warp is now passed again1 and hitched as before4 ,this must be repeated until the whole of the fender is covered with a sort of woven coat as shown in ,fig4 #acd4 ,the ends of the nettles are brought round the last turn of the warp1 and interlaced in the grafting4 ,this fender requires a lanyard the same as the last one4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ace4--,thimble ,side ,view4 ,fig4 #acf4--,thimble ,cross ,section4 ,a thimble1 shown in side view and section by ,figs4 #ace and #acf1 is an iron ring1 usually galvanised1 and a rope or strop fits snugly in its flanged rim4 ,it may be heart-shaped or round1 and is used as a small eye on the end of a rope to receive another rope4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #acg4--,mousing a ,hook4 ,fig4 #acg shows a method of 8mousing a hook10 that is1 preventing a chain slipping off a hook4 ,a few turns of rope-yarn are passed round the end of the hook and the standing part1 and the ends brought round the middle a few times1 and fastened with a reef knot4 ,for 8stropping a block0 7,fig4 #ach7 a grommet is neat1 and a selvagee still neater1 especially when leather-covered4 ,the block is first fixed in one bight1 so that the lower part of the block sits on the splice1 if there is one4 ,a thimble is put into the other bight1 and a seizing put on between the block and the thimble1 each turn of which is hove taut with a heaver4 ,the turns are1 lastly1 crossed1 and the ends knotted4 ,fig4 #ach shows the work finished4 ,sometimes the stropping is made by splicing the ends of a suitable length of rope together4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ach4--,stropping a ,block4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aci4--,pointing a ,rope4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #adj4--;,another ,method of ,pointing a ,rope4 ,pointing a rope is done partly to prevent it from untwisting1 and partly to make it go more readily through a block or hole4 ,fig4 #aci shows one method4 ,the rope is unlaid for the necessary length1 the strands reduced gradually1 and then laid up again4 ,the ends are finally whipped with small twine4 ,if necessary the end is stiffened by inserting a piece of stick4 ,sometimes a 8becket0--that is1 a piece of small line with an eye at the end--is put into the end and whipped over to secure it1 as in ,fig4 #aci4 ,fig4 #adj gives a more elaborate method4 ,the rope is first unlaid1 and a stop put on it where the unlaid part begins4 ,as many yarns as are required are taken out and made into nettles by twisting together the two halves of different yarns4 ,the remainder of the yarns is scraped down taper with a knife4 ,half of the nettles is turned back on the standing part of the rope1 and the other half allowed to lie on the scraped part4 ,two or three turns of twine are hitched round the division of the two sets of strands1 and the nettles laid backwards and forwards1 the weft being passed each time1 as described in making the fender 7,fig4 #acd74 ,the end usually is whipped and a seizing put on the upper part1 which is snaked1 as illustrated1 by passing twine diagonally under and over the outer turns of the seizing alternately--that is1 if it comes out over the upper turn1 it will go under the bottom one1 under the top1 and so on until it is finished4 ,fig4 #ada is part of a mainstay4 ,an eye is first made in the end1 and a mouse the shape of a pear raised on the rope with spun yarn4 ,each turn of the yarn is hove well taut with a large serving-mallet1 and beaten close4 ,the eye and the rope as far as the mouse are wormed1 parcelled1 and served over2 the mouse and the part below it 7the tail7 are parcelled with worn canvas1 well tarred1 and pointed over or grafted with small stuff4 ,the mouse is covered with nettles1 and their number diminished as they are worked into the smaller parts4 ,below the pointing it is again served over4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ada4--,mainstay4 ,shear-legs are fastened together as indicated in ,fig4 #adb4 ,they are first laid side by side1 and a lashing of rope put round them4 ,the ends of the lashing are carried one up and the other down to form a cross lashing1 and are knotted in the middle4 ,this is called a ,portuguese knot4 ,when the legs are separated1 the knot becomes very secure4 ,a neat pair of yoke lines is made and fitted in the following manner4 ,the length of the lines depends upon the distance of the yoke from the after seat2 that distance added to #c ft4 will give a good length for each line4 ,supposing the top of the back-board to be #c ft4 from the yoke1 two-and-a-half fathoms of white cotton rope will be necessary1 the extra half fathom being allowed for knotting1 etc4 ,cut this in two equal lengths2 take one of these and 8stop0 with a few turns of twine at #ad in4 from one end and #f in4 from the other1 which will leave #gj in4 between the stops or whippings4 ,now unlay the longer end and whip each strand close to the end1 leaving a few inches of spare twine on each1 which will be useful when finishing the manrope knot4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #adb4--,shear-legs4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #adc4--,wall ,knot4 ,holding the line in the left hand1 make a single wall knot1 as shown in ,fig4 #adc4 ,the strand ,a is first placed and held in position by the thumb2 ,b is next taken and passed round the end of ,a1 then ,c round the end of ,b1 and up through the loop formed in the first instance with ,a4 ,now pull together evenly1 but not too tightly1 and with the three ends remaining work a crown 7see ,fig4 #add71 where ,a is crossed over the knot1 then ,b over ,a1 and ,c over ,b1 and down through the loop formed by ,a4 ,after pulling this crown together evenly1 the state shown by ,fig4 #ade is reached2 notice that the ends lie snug against the strands of the wall knot first formed4 ,keeping each end on the same side of its partner1 let it follow the same round1 using a steel pricker to open the way between the strands4 ,the twine ends before-mentioned will now be found useful in coaxing these ends through their holes4 ,when each end has followed its partner round the wall and crown1 the ends which will come out at the neck of the knot may be cut off and the manrope knot 7,fig4 #adf7 will be completed4 ,a red leather washer with serrated edge is usually pushed up to the knot as a finish4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #add4--;,crown4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ade4--;,crown ,hauled ,taut4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #adf4--,manrope ,knot4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #adg4--,pointing ,end of ,yoke ,line4 ,the other end of the line should be pointed4 ,to do this1 unlay and fray out the #f in4 of end1 then pick out the yarns nearest the edge--that is1 next the whipping--and make a number of #b-ply nettles by laying up these outer yarns1 scraping them a little with a knife to make them taper slightly4 ,there must be an even number of nettles1 and sufficient to lay close together all round the 8heart10 which is formed by scraping away the centre yarns to an even taper1 then marling down tight with twine as seen at ,d 7,fig4 #adg74 ,half the nettles must now be placed along the heart1 and half and half back over the whipping1 picking them out alternately4 ,an indiarubber band is convenient to keep them in place while passing the 8warp0--that is1 two turns of twine hitched round the heart and those nettles lying along it4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #adh4--;,fastening off ,yoke ,line4 ,the nettles must now change places2 all that were placed back must go forward1 and all that were along the heart must go back over the whipping1 and the warp is again passed twice round and hitched2 this process is continued till the point reaches the length of #b in41 or whatever length of point is required4 ,four times the diameter of the rope is a good rule for this4 ,to fasten off1 all the nettles are stroked down towards the tapered end1 and all those round which the warp was last passed are doubled back as shown in ,fig4 #adh1 three hitched turns of the warp being passed through all the 8bites0 or loops of the nettles1 which are then pulled down and cut off with the other nettle ends4 ,the twine stop is then taken off and a neat snake whipping put on in its place4 ,a bunting fringe is generally added as a finish1 and this is very easily made by fraying out a piece of blue or red bunting #d in4 square1 and laying the threads down together ends even1 then placing enough of these round the yoke line to encircle it at about #a in4 from the snake whipping4 ,pass a number of turns of twine round all near the centre of the bunting threads to form a little knob1 then stroke all the bunting threads towards the point and put round all a neat snake-thread whipping just below the knob4 ,this will form a little tassel1 as shown in ,fig4 #adi1 which represents one yoke line completed4 ,the other is1 of course1 made in the same manner4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #adi4--,yoke ,line ,complete4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aej4--,stern ,ladder4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aea4--,round of ,stern ,ladder4 ,a rope ladder1 owing to its portability1 is for some purposes more suitable than one made of wood1 especially where the ladder is to be hauled up when not in use4 ,fig4 #aej shows a rope ladder which is made of four-strand rope2 the rounds are turned out of oak to the form shown in ,fig4 #aea4 ,the groove at the ends is for the reception of the strands of the rope4 ,the rounds are rather more than #a in4 in diameter1 and are placed #aa in4 apart4 ,the strands are opened with a marlinespike and the rounds inserted between them1 two on each side3 a seizing is put on below each round2 a round thimble is put into the upper bight1 and an eye seizing is clapped on below it4 ,the lower ends are generally spliced together1 or a thimble may be spliced in1 as at the upper end1 if it is intended to make the lower end fast4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aeb4--,single ,rope ,ladder with ,chocks4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aec4--,toe ,chock for ,rope ,ladder4 ,another form of rope ladder is shown in ,fig4 #aeb4 ,a number of oak chocks 7,fig4 #aec7 are turned1 usually about #e in4 in diameter and #e in4 deep1 bored to #a in4 diameter with the grain of the wood2 this will take a #c-;in4 four-stranded rope4 ,splice an eye at one end and seize in a thimble for the lashing2 put on one of the wooden steps1 flat side uppermost towards the thimble and about #cj in4 down4 ,insert a strand of ratline stuff between two strands of the rope1 and with the two ends of the strand work a 8wall knot0 round the rope1 then a 8crown10 which will bring the ends down to the first turns of the wall4 ,pull the parts up tight1 and follow them round once2 the result will be a neat knot looking like a two-parted ,turk's head4 ,if preferred1 two strands may be inserted crossing each other at right angles between the four rope strands2 then with all four ends work a double wall knot round the rope4 ,between the knots1 spaced #ae in4 apart1 slip on the wood4 ,do not cut off the ends short until the knots have got well jammed up4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aed4--,rope ,ladder with ,rungs4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aee4--,wood ,rung4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aef4--,pilot ,ladder4 ,for a #be-;ft4 ladder of a better kind1 illustrated in ,fig4 #aed1 two dozen oval rungs of wood will be required1 having at the ends scores rasped as shown at ,fig4 #aee4 ,the rungs may be #ab in4 long4 ,nine fathoms of #d-;in4 four-stranded rope must be well stretched and the turns taken out1 stretched again1 etc4 ,middle it and seize a thimble in the bight1 making this fast to a post4 ,then stretch out both parts together1 and mark off the positions for the rungs with chalk1 #ab in4 apart4 ,at every chalk mark1 and round each part of rope separately1 put a seven-turn whipping of tarred nettle stuff 7this is sold in hanks74 ,now begin at the end nearest the bight or lower end1 open the strands with a fid and spike above the seizings or whippings1 and push in a rung1 taking care to avoid twisting the rope by inserting the spike between the two strands best situated4 ,when all the rungs are in and the ladder hangs without much twist1 the open parts of the strands may be drawn together with a marlinespike and a piece of sennit or by carefully using a screw cramp above the rungs2 then a six-turn seizing of nettle stuff put tightly on above each of the rungs keeps them in place4 ,the top rung should be rather stouter than the rest to allow a deeper score4 ,splice a thimble into each end1 and into each thimble a fathom of eighteen-yarn stuff for lashings4 ,this is a good ladder to hang down clear1 and is used over ships' sterns and from lower booms1 the lower thimble being convenient for boats' 8painters40 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aeg4--,side ,piece of ,pilot ,ladder4 ,to hang against a ship's side1 where room for the toe projecting over the rung is needed1 a pilot ladder 7,fig4 #aef7 is more comfortable1 but more difficult to make4 ,the steps are usually of teak1 mortised into diamond-shaped side pieces 7see ,fig4 #aeg7 about #h in4 deep by #e in41 with a score rasped out all round the edges4 ,about twenty-three or twenty-four of these steps will be required for a #be-;ft4 ladder1 and eighteen fathoms of #b-;in4 three-stranded rope4 ,prepare by stretching well as before2 cut in two equal parts and mark the middle of each length4 ,place one of the steps immediately over the marks and seize it tight in place by bringing the parts of rope round the score on each side to meet above4 ,if the next step is placed on this seizing and so on1 the completed ladder is too stiff to roll up2 it is therefore necessary to put two seizings between each step1 leaving about #b in4 of free rope between them4 ,when the steps are thus seized in place1 the ends on each side are made even1 spliced together1 and fitted with thimbles for the lashings4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aeh4--;,beginning ,mat4 ,mats are used on board ship to prevent chafing4 ,in making wrought mats a piece of small cord is stretched tight horizontally at about the height of a man1 and fastened at each end4 ,across this1 hanging by their middles1 nettles are placed4 ,these are often made of 8foxes0--that is1 three or more rope-yarns twisted together by hand1 and each rubbed down with tarred canvas or a handful of rope-yarn4 ,beginning with the nettle nearest the left hand1 it is crossed as ,a 7,fig4 #aeh74 ,another nettle is then brought up close to the first1 and crossed in the same way4 ,the end ,b is then passed over the strand ,c1 and pushed to the back2 another nettle is then brought forward1 crossed as before1 and one part of it put over the part ,d1 and pressed back4 ,the work is continued this way1 working diagonally until a sufficient width is obtained 7,fig4 #aei72 then1 as no more nettles are added1 and the outside nettle on the right is brought over from time to time1 a selvage is formed as on the left side4 ,take care not to twist each of the nettles together at the bottom1 so that they may retain their twist until the next in succession is brought down to interweave with them4 ,there is a little difficulty at starting1 but afterwards everything goes on easily4 ,each nettle from the right passes over the next one to it on the left1 and is pushed back1 the one that has been passed over being taken up first over the next and pushed back as before4 ,each twist should be pressed tight as it is made4 ,when the mat is deep enough1 a selvage is made by straining another piece of cord along the bottom1 securing both ends4 ,as each nettle comes down it is half-hitched to this1 and the next nettle is laid up at the back of it1 and so on alternately4 ,mats are frequently thrummed2 this is done by raising the nettles lying on the top of the mat with a marlinespike or pricker after the mat is finished1 and putting short pieces of the nettle stuff underneath4 ,the thrums are then cut off to the same length1 and opened out4 ,of course1 wrought mats may be made of any material and used for a variety of purposes4 ,they make most excellent door-mats1 and are of everlasting wear4 ,for this purpose they should not be made of tarred stuff4 ,very pretty mats may be constructed of twine for the foundation and various coloured pieces of worsted for the thrums4 ,a kind of mat used aboard ship is called a sword mat4 ,it is woven1 but a loom is not used4 ,two small cords1 or1 better still1 two small rods1 are secured horizontally and the nettle stuff wound round them1 the coils being laid close together4 ,a piece of wood called a 8fiddle10 as long as the width of the mat and about #b in4 wide and in4 thick1 has half as many holes bored near the lower edge as these nettles in the mat4 ,every alternate nettle is secured to this by some twine laced through the holes4 ,another fiddle is fastened in like manner to the remaining nettles4 ,the work can now be begun4 ,the first fiddle is raised1 and the first set of nettles consequently raised with it4 ,what weavers call a 8shed0 is thus formed--that is1 an opening between the two sets of nettles--and along it the weft or filling is passed by means of a netting needle 7see p4 #abe74 ,the filling is driven well home with a flat piece of wood1 tapered towards the edge1 called a 8sword40 ,the first set of nettles is now allowed to drop1 and the second set drawn up with the other fiddle4 ,the filling is passed again and driven home as before4 ,the work is thus continued until there is no longer room to use the sword1 when the filling must be worked home with a pricker4 ,when the mat is long enough1 the filling is fastened off1 and the mat is complete4 ,these mats may be thrummed in the same manner as the wrought mats4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aei4--,mat ,making4 ,a softer kind of mat is made on a foundation of canvas or duck1 which is very suitable for the stern-sheets of a boat or any other similar purpose4 ,the material is cut to the right size and folded a short distance from the edge4 ,a hole is made near the selvage with a pricker and a thrum inserted2 another hole is then made a short distance from the first and another thrum put in1 and so on until the row is completed4 ,row after row is thus worked until the mat is finished4 ,of course the holes1 and consequently the thrums1 go through both parts of the material4 ,when the canvas is pulled straight after each row is finished1 the thrums are held securely without any other fastening4 ,when a pattern is to be worked on the mat1 the design must first be drawn on the material in pencil and the canvas folded accordingly2 every fold produces two rows of thrums4 ,white duck thrummed with pieces of cotton rope makes very nice1 clean-looking mats for boat use1 and as they wash well they can always be kept in good order4 ,these mats1 with a stout canvas or sacking foundation1 thrummed with pieces of untarred hemp rope1 serve very well for door-mats1 though1 of course1 they will not last as long as wrought mats4 ,very ornamental mats are made somewhat after the same manner as those just described4 ,any suitable material1 of any colour1 can be used for the foundation1 on which the pattern must be drawn4 ,the mat is folded along the line intended to be worked1 and a common pencil laid along the ridge of the fold4 ,the worsted or other material used is threaded in a large needle1 and worked over and over the pencil1 thus forming1 when the pencil is withdrawn1 a series of loops on the foundation4 ,any pattern can thus be worked1 provided always that it consists of straight lines4 ,it might be possible to form curved lines by working the loops over the first finger of the left hand1 moving the finger after each loop4 ,,chapter ,,ix4 ,,hammock ,,making4 ,this chapter will describe the netting and slinging of hammocks4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #afj4--,netting ,needle4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #afa4--,netting ,needle4 ,hammock making requires a netting needle of one of the shapes shown by ,figs4 #afj and #afa4 ,it may be made from a piece of #c_/af-;in4 pearwood1 beech1 or boxwood about #h in4 long by in4 wide4 ,in needles as shown by ,fig4 #afa the cord is wound round as when filling an ordinary shuttle1 and for ,fig4 #afj the cord is brought round the end at ,a up one side1 round the pin at ,b1 and back the same side1 the process being repeated on the other side of the needle4 ,illustration3 ,figs4 #afb4--,mesh ,stick4 ,illustration3 ,figs4 #afc4--,mesh ,stick ,cross ,section4 ,a mesh stick 7,fig4 #afb7 is made of hardwood or bone about #e in4 long and of an oval shape 7,fig4 #afc72 it may be about in4 by in4 in section4 ,at one end of the string to be used for the net tie a loop ,a 7,fig4 #afd71 and place the knot on a nail or hook fixed in some convenient position1 as at ,a 7,fig4 #afe74 ,place the mesh stick under the loop as at ,b1 put the cord under it1 then pass the needle through the loop and pull the cord tight4 ,now place the thumb of the left hand on the cord beyond the loop as at ,a 7,fig4 #aff71 and with a turn of the wrist of the right hand throw the cord to the position shown at ,b1 then pass the needle under the loop ,c1 then through the bight of ,b1 and down as at ,d1 and draw the knot tight1 which should then assume the shape shown by ,fig4 #afg4 ,the cord must be held firmly with the thumb at ,a 7,fig4 #aff7 when pulling up the knots1 as on this depends the uniformity of the meshes4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #afd4--,loop in ,meshing4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #afe4--;,first ,stage in ,meshing4 ,to continue the netting the stick is withdrawn and placed under ,a 7,fig4 #afg71 and the needle is then passed under the stick as in ,fig4 #afe1 and brought through the loop ,b 7,fig4 #afg71 and the process shown by ,fig4 #aff is repeated to form another mesh1 this being continued to make a chain of meshes1 say forty-five or fifty 7,fig4 #afh71 sufficient for the width of the hammock4 ,the loop ,a 7,figs4 #afd1 #afe1 and #afh7 that was first tied is then untied1 and it will then be found that all the meshes are equal in size4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aff4--,second ,stage in ,meshing4 ,next the chain is opened out at right angles to the line in which it was made1 as shown by ,fig4 #afi1 and working across is begun by making a mesh at ,a 7,fig4 #afi71 then at ,b1 ,c1 and so on1 until the length of the first lot of meshes has been reached1 when the net is turned over and another row of meshes worked until the one under ,a has been reached2 then the net is turned again and another row worked1 and so on4 ,the meshes are worked as shown by ,fig4 #aff1 but at first1 to ensure uniformity1 it will be well to put the loops ,d1 ,e1 ,f1 and ,g 7,fig4 #afi7 separately on the hook or nail as the meshes under them are made1 but after a little practice a cord may be reeved through the top line of meshes1 tied into a loop1 and passed over the knee and then over the foot1 as the work progresses4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #afg4--,third ,stage of ,meshing4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #afh4--;,chain of ,meshes4 ,there are three ways of forming the ends4 ,an ash stick may be used at each end to which the end meshes are looped and tied1 and a piece of codline may be passed through the side meshes on each side and attached to the ends of the sticks4 ,at each end a stout cord is secured to the stick in the form of a triangle for hanging the hammock4 ,the second plan is to tie a number of cords together by doubling them in the centre and forming a loop1 and each of the free ends1 known as 8nettles10 is attached to one of the meshes of the net4 ,the third and perhaps the best plan is to reeve a cord about the size of a little finger through the end meshes and splice it into the form of a grommet as shown by ,fig4 #agj4 ,a thimble ,a is fixed in the end to which the supporting cords are attached1 and the cords which are reeved through the side meshes are spliced into the eye ,b at ,c4 ,when these 8clews0 are used the net must be longer than for the sticks or nettles4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #afi4--;,beginning of ,cross ,netting4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #agj4--;,hammock ,clew4 ,,chapter ,x4 ,,lashings ,,and ,,ties ,,for ,,scaffolding4 ,lashings are seizings of rope for heavy work1 such as scaffolding2 and the lashing of poles1 ledgers1 and putlogs may be now considered with advantage4 ,heavy scaffolding is best lashed with chain2 and it should be noted that1 while a rope lashing is hove taut by the steady strain of a heaving bar1 a chain requires different treatment1 and must be jerked tight with little tugs--an action similar to that used when shaking out a mat--assisted by an occasional rap with the heaver4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aga4--,rope ,lashing for ,poles and ,ledgers4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #agb4--;,chain ,lashing for ,poles and ,ledgers4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #agc4--,rope ,lashing for ,putlogs4 ,the rope used for lashing all parts of scaffolding should be fairly new1 sound1 and in size not more than #a in4 ,the average length required will be about six yards1 and it must be so put on that each turn of the lashing takes its share in the support4 ,to this end the tackle supporting the ledger must not be released until the lashing is completed1 otherwise the first turns will be subjected to undue strain4 ,fig4 #aga shows the lashing of a ledger to a pole2 if chain is used a different method is necessary1 and it is lashed as in ,fig4 #agb4 ,putlogs should be square1 or at any rate flat on the upper and lower sides1 to prevent any chance of rolling1 one end being squared down in size to enter the building in the place of a header brick1 the other end being lashed down to the ledger as in ,fig4 #agc4 ,the planks forming the stage are not lashed to the putlogs1 and there is great danger in allowing them to project at one or both ends4 ,poles are generally about #cj ft4 long1 and for high buildings it is necessary to lengthen them by lashing on an extra pole4 ,the safest plan is to lash a half pole to the lower part of the first erected2 this resting on the ground will form a footing1 upon the upper end of which the lengthening pole will stand1 being kept in position by three plain lashings 7see ,fig4 #agd74 ,should the lengthening pole be only light1 and a footing not be considered necessary1 a chain racking should be put on besides two rope lashings4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #agd4--,poles ,lashed and ,wedged1 with ,footing4 ,it is usual to wedge scaffold lashings tight1 and1 provided the wedges are well shaped1 it is a convenient way of tightening the work after change of weather4 ,badly-shaped wedges are apt to cut the rope and sometimes work out4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #age4--,slinging ,plank for use as ,stage4 ,stages for painting1 or small repairs on a building1 may be quickly rigged up by slinging each end of a plank on the bight of a rope4 ,for this make a marlinespike hitch 7see ,fig4 #dj1 p4 #dj71 and let the end of the plank take the position there occupied by the marlinespike2 the double part will be below and the single part above the plank 7see ,fig4 #age74 ,for single-handed work a boatswain's chair1 of which an illustration is given by ,fig4 #agf1 is convenient4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #agf4--;,boatswain's ,chair4 ,,chapter ,,xi4 ,,splicing ,,and ,,socketing ,,wire ,,ropes4 ,wire ropes are now used to such an extent1 and in such a variety of ways1 that a knowledge of the best methods of handling them cannot fail to be useful to the many thousands who are brought in daily contact with them4 ,an endeavour will here be made to give such clear and simple instructions as will enable readers1 with practice1 to execute any job in connection with the splicing of wire ropes4 ,the uses that wire ropes are now put to1 and the ways and occupations they are employed in1 are so various1 that it is almost a necessity for a man to be engaged in their manufacture to have a thorough knowledge of the different methods of handling them4 ,for instance1 it would be just as consistent to expect a sailor1 used only to eye-splicing1 to go to a colliery and put a long splice into a rope1 to withstand the enormous stress there applied1 as it would be to expect a colliery man to go aboard ship to splice the mainbrace1 or any other brace4 ,now ,fig4 #agg is a sketch-plan of an endless band rope1 such as may be seen at many collieries in ,great ,britain4 ,a is the driving sheave on the engine at bank1 round which the rope passes three or four times1 and leads off to the overhead pulley ,b4 ,then it goes down the shaft1 perhaps a very considerable distance1 under the pulley ,c1 and so on to ,d1 whence it passes round the tightening sheave ,e1 which is movable and contrived with weights to keep the rope always tight1 and so prevent surging round the pulleys and sheaves and consequent loss of power4 ,the rope then passes round ,d to the sheave ,f1 the driving of which is the object aimed at1 since that sheave in turn may work either one or two hauling ropes1 as at ,g and ,h1 working into the interior of the pit1 in addition1 perhaps1 to a pump4 ,the load on this rope may amount to several tons1 and such a rope will therefore require a splice from #fj ft4 to #ajj ft4 long4 ,further1 no matter what kind of a splice it may be1 it must be made well4 ,if it is a ship's hawser1 at times the safety of the vessel and all it contains may depend on a splice4 ,again1 an awful disaster might be the result if the splice in a crane rope were to draw4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #agg4--;,colliery ,band ,rope ,driving ,system4 ,there are three kinds of wire rope splices1 the short splice1 eye splice1 and long splice4 ,a short splice is a bulky splice1 and is used only for block straps1 slings1 etc4 ,it is not suitable for driving ropes or for running tackle1 and should never be put into a crane or hoist rope4 ,it is made by unlaying the two ends of the rope to a sufficient length1 from #a ft4 to #b ft41 according to size1 and interlaying them together as in ,fig4 #agh4 ,draw them close1 and tuck the strands of one under the strands of the other several times4 ,it is only a case of 8over and under0 as in splicing a hemp rope4 ,after the ends have been tucked a sufficient number of times1 about twice1 each strand will stand in most cases4 ,hammer all down snug1 and either cut off the ends with a hammer and chisel or twist the wires off one or two at a time1 which makes a much neater job4 ,an eye splice may be made in two different ways--namely1 left-handed1 or 8over and under10 and right-handed4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #agh4--8,marrying0 a ,wire ,rope ,splice4 ,left-handed splicing is undoubtedly stronger1 tuck for tuck1 than the right-handed method1 for the 8bite0 on the strands is greater and the frictional adhesion is more acute4 ,the strands and ends are practically plaited1 and consequently locked together1 and1 no matter how the rope unlays itself1 the splice is immovable4 ,a splice like this should be put into every crane rope1 for frequently the load when lifted from the ground spins round and unlays the rope to a certain extent4 ,in right-handed splicing1 the ends to be tucked are simply laid several times round one strand each1 and offer no resistance to any such unlaying process4 ,however1 a right-handed splice is easier and neater to make1 and these splices are becoming general1 some splicers making it a rule to put a 8lock0 in by tucking the ends once left-handed4 ,a right-handed splice is strong enough for most ordinary purposes1 but if a left-handed splice is tucked three times and put on a testing machine1 it would break the rope before it would draw out2 whereas1 if a right-handed splice were tucked three times and put to the same test1 it would pull out4 ,however1 if the right-handed splice1 instead of being tucked three times were tucked eight times1 it would stand any stress that could be put on it2 in fact1 six times through is quite sufficient for ordinary purposes4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #agi4--,method of ,serving ,wire ,rope4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ahj4--,partly-finished ,splice4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aha4--,wire ,rope ready for ,splicing4 ,the following is the method of right-handed splicing4 ,first fasten up the rope-end from the vice to any convenient column or hook1 and mark off from the end1 as at ,a 7,fig4 #agi71 the length for the splice1 which will be from #a ft4 to #f ft41 according to the size of rope2 say #b ft4 of end for #b in4 cir4 rope4 ,measure with a string round the groove of the thimble1 and transfer the length to the rope1 marking it as at ,a ,b4 ,to put a seizing on the 8neck0 of the splice1 as in ,fig4 #ahj1 add #f in4 or #h in4 to the length of rope to be served4 ,now take a narrow strip of parcelling--that is1 thin bagging--and bind it neatly round the rope from ,a to ,b 7,fig4 #agi74 ,the rule is3 ,worm and parcel with the lay1 but serve the rope the other way4 ,next take a serving-mallet ,d 7,fig4 #agi71 with a bobbin full of spun yarn upon it1 and1 beginning at ,b1 serve over the parcelling to ,a4 ,cut off and make fast the end of spun yarn1 when the work will be ready for turning in the thimble4 ,a chalk mark midway between ,a and ,b will serve as a guide in getting in the thimble straight4 ,next bring the end of the rope round on the double to form a loop1 with ,a and ,b exactly level4 ,open the vice sufficiently to take in that loop1 insert the thimble1 taking care to have it exactly straight1 and screw up the vice as tightly as possible4 ,securely fasten the rope and thimble together at the 8neck0 ,a 7,fig4 #aha71 when the rope should appear as there illustrated4 ,fasten it in the vice with the thimble hanging downwards1 and the part to be spliced held up by a line suspended from some convenient joist or girder4 ,take the whipping off the rope-end1 and open out the strands singly1 to be ready for tucking4 ,looking at the rope from the direction of the arrow ,a 7,fig4 #ahb71 drive a marlinespike through the two strands on the extreme left1 taking care1 of course1 always to miss the core of the rope4 ,twist the spike up the rope about half a turn1 so as to make an easier bend for the strand1 then take the strand nearest the opening1 tuck it through1 and haul tight4 ,then1 most important1 force down the strand with the marlinespike till it occupies the position indicated in the dotted lines of ,fig4 #ahb4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ahb4--,right-handed ,splice1 ,first ,tuck4 ,at the next tuck1 with the spike take in the strand to the right1 along with the two just gone through1 making an opening through three strands1 with the point of the spike coming out in the same place as in the first tuck4 ,insert the next nearest end1 strand two1 and work in snug as before4 ,of the three strands the spike has just been through1 take the one nearest to the left1 and drive the spike in so as to make the point come out at the same opening as before2 tuck in ,no4 #c strand1 and that will make1 as in ,fig4 #ahc1 three strand ends entering into the same opening in the rope1 but coming out between different strands4 ,after this1 simply keep on taking the next strand and the next end1 following round to the left1 till all the ends are tucked once1 when an end will come out between each pair of strands4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ahc4--,right-handed ,splice1 all ,ends ,tucked ,once4 ,the rest is easy4 ,merely keep on repeating the operation1 with strand and end1 until the splice is long enough and strong enough4 ,as ,fig4 #ahj shows1 after the first set of tucks1 it is only a case of each end twisting and re-twisting round its own particular strand1 all the way up4 ,it merely thickens the strands4 ,after the ends are tucked three or four times1 it will make a neater splice if the ends are split and the splice is tapered at the finish by leaving behind one-half of each end1 while the other half is tucked once or twice more4 ,having finished the tucking1 take the splice down from the vice1 cut off all strand ends quite close1 and hammer all down snugly4 ,at the neck put on the seizing wire1 if any1 parcel and serve1 and the right-handed eye splice is complete4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ahd4--,left-handed ,splice1 ,first ,tuck4 ,seizing wire is really a seven-wire strand1 made of soft wire1 about ,no4 #ah or ,no4 #ai gauge4 ,it is put on a splice for the double purpose of strengthening the splice and rendering it easier to take a weak or broken thimble out of the eye1 to be replaced by a stronger one4 ,it is simply bound tightly round the two ropes at the neck1 and the end is brought up and round the middle twice1 or thrice and made secure1 as at ,a 7,fig4 #ahj74 ,left-handed eye-splicing should be comparatively easy if the preceding instructions on right-handed eye-splicing have been carefully followed4 ,although it is not essential1 it makes a neater and a closer splice if a slightly different method of starting is adopted4 ,in splicing a thimble into a crane rope or a trawl-warp1 two ropes in which it is very advisable to put left-handed splices1 it is unusual to put any seizing on the neck2 instead1 the rope is spliced right down to the thimble4 ,serve sufficient rope to go round the thimble only1 leaving out sufficient end for the splice4 ,turn in and screw up very tight in the vice1 make fast at the neck1 as before described1 fasten the rope up with the thimble hanging downwards1 and open out the ends4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ahe4--,left-handed ,splice1 all ,ends ,tucked ,once4 ,different splicers have different ways of starting1 but a very good method is as follows3 ,turn to ,fig4 #aha1 and1 taking the strand in the rope nearest the point marked ,c1 open it out with the spike4 ,select the end that is nearest to it1 which will be the inside middle one of the bunch1 bring it through to the right hand1 as in ,fig4 #ahd1 and force it down well4 ,still keeping the spike through the same strand1 select the middle strand end1 on the outside of the bunch1 and put it through the same aperture1 but in the opposite direction--that is1 left-handed4 ,of the four strands now remaining1 first take the two at the right1 and put each end through its nearest strands1 right-handed1 as at ,b ,c 7,fig4 #ahe71 and the other two at the left1 and tuck them through their nearest neighbours1 left-handed4 ,there is now an end coming out between each strand1 and if the rope is now taken down and hammered well at this part1 a very neat starting is formed4 ,all that remains now is very simple2 just keep working round to the left1 tucking each end as it is reached over its neighbour and under the next one4 ,work 8over and under0 all the way1 until each end is tucked three or four times4 ,the appearance of the splice will be improved if the ends are halved before taking the final tuck4 ,if the strands of the rope to be spliced are very hard and stiff1 it will perhaps be difficult to pull in the ends quite snug4 ,to get over this difficulty1 before tucking give each strand a sharp bend close to the rope1 in the direction in which it has to be tucked1 when it will spring into its place with comparatively little pulling4 ,when all the ends are tucked1 hammer the splice well1 as that makes the wires knit more into one another1 and consequently increases the 8bite40 ,all that remains now is to cut the ends off1 and serve over1 finishing at the thimble4 ,it is a good plan to take the splice down now and then during the process of tucking1 and hammer it well1 as that serves to drive out all the slack at the ends4 ,long-splicing is undoubtedly the most important form of splicing4 ,by its use two pieces of rope may be joined together1 or a rope may be made endless1 without increasing its thickness at the splice4 ,in fact1 none but a practised eye can discern where a well-made splice is1 after it has been made and set running1 as all ends are completely hidden4 ,ability to splice well in this style commands many good jobs at collieries in this country and in ,south ,african mines4 ,of course1 in long-splicing1 as in many other things1 different men have different styles4 ,suppose1 for example1 a colliery hauling rope is to be spliced1 and that it works endless from a hauling engine to a terminal return pulley1 mounted on the tension bogie2 suppose also that the rope has been put in position1 with the ends left at the most convenient place ready for splicing4 ,if #fj ft4 of end is available for the splice1 decide on that length1 and1 measuring about #dj ft4 from each end1 make the rope fast to the rails at one side1 and at the other side fix a block and tackle1 and haul in every bit of slack lying on the hauling road1 taking especial care that the tension bogie is pulled right up to the top of the tension 8ways40 ,this is a very important consideration1 because if1 through the rope stretching1 the tension pulley got down to its limit before the rope was worn out1 it would necessitate cutting the rope and making a new splice1 or opening out the old splice and re-splicing there again after shortening the rope4 ,where practicable1 have the tension of a sufficient length that by the time it gets to its limit there is sufficient length of rope to make a new splice1 in case the old one is found to be giving way4 ,some ropes stretch more than others in working1 and it is difficult to say accurately how much per cent4 a rope will stretch1 as much depends on the way the rope has been made4 ,however1 the larger the hempen core inside the rope or the shorter the lay or spiral twist the more the stretch4 ,it is wise1 therefore1 when splicing a new rope never to give any slack away4 ,having got the rope hauled as tight as possible1 carefully measure #cj ft4 from each end of the rope1 and there tie a strong whipping4 ,it is important that these whippings should be put on each rope at a distance which shall ensure that they will easily come quite up to each other when the two ends are joined together4 ,next1 take the whippings off the extreme ends of rope and open out the strands4 ,some splicers do this in pairs2 others simply halve the rope1 opening it out in two bunches of three strands each4 ,a better way1 considering laying them in again1 is to open out one strand1 then miss one and open out the next to that1 then miss another and take the next one again4 ,there are now three single strands opened out to the whipping at #cj ft4 from the end1 and between each of these strands there is one strand unopened4 ,this work must be done at each end of the rope1 of course4 ,taking these two bunches of three unopened strands1 cut them off about #f in4 from the whipping and throw them on one side4 ,open out the #f in41 obtaining three strands #cj ft4 long1 and between each pair is a strand #f in4 long1 with the same length of core projecting through the centre of the rope4 ,join the two ends together as in ,fig4 #agh 7p4 #ace71 taking care in every case to have the strands placed so that a long strand will fall in where a short one comes out1 and at the same time pull out between the strands the two short pieces of core ,a ,b4 ,place helpers on each side to pull on the long strands1 as in a tug of war1 and after cutting the two whippings ,c get the helpers to pull in opposite directions1 until the two ropes are jammed close up to each other1 with the strands ready to fall naturally into the lay of the rope4 ,if this is not done properly1 or if the rope is allowed to slip back1 the appearance of the finished splice will be spoiled by an unsightly long place in the lay4 ,next clamp or securely tie the three long strands at one side to the rope1 and proceed to lay the other three long strands into place4 ,select a long strand and the short one that touches it1 open out the short strand1 and lay the long one in its place4 ,keep on doing that until all but #e ft4 of the long strand has been laid in2 then stop and lock these two strands together by crossing them1 so that they will not open out4 ,now measure back #e ft4 on the strand just opened out and cut the rest off1 as only #e ft4 will be needed on each end4 ,open out another short strand1 at the same time laying in a long one1 to the length of #ae ft4 only1 and the next long strand must be laid in just #e ft4 ,now release the other three strands made fast to the rope1 and treat them in the same way1 laying in a long strand where a short one is taken out4 ,make all the ends #e ft4 long1 putting a small whipping on each before cutting to prevent opening out1 when the splice will be as in ,fig4 #ahf4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ahf4--,long ,splice1 all ,ends ready for ,tucking4 ,there are now twelve strand ends1 #e ft4 long1 which must be worked into the inside of the rope and completely hidden2 but before this some lengths of thin bagging must be prepared1 about #b in4 wide1 or1 failing that1 get some thin yarn1 which must be wrapped securely and evenly round each strand for about #b ft4 or #c ft4 from the end4 ,strips of bagging are the better1 and can be expeditiously put on by getting each helper to wrap an end4 ,this gives the outer strands something to knit or bed into when the hempen core is taken out of the centre of the rope and the steel strand ends are worked in4 ,after considering the difference between the size of the hempen core and of the outer strands1 necessitated1 of course1 by the spiral form of the outer strands1 it will be obvious that the 8bite0 of the outer on the inner strands would be very little indeed if the ends were worked in bare4 ,when all the ends are wrapped and cut to such a length that they just butt against each other when worked inside the rope1 the work is ready for tucking4 ,take hold of the piece of hempen core ,a 7,fig4 #ahf7 and pull it out just to past the first joint--that is1 the two ends #a and #a4 ,in all probability1 if the rope is large or rather hard laid1 this will be difficult1 unless a tapered round spike is driven through the two strands immediately behind it4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ahg4--,making ,round ,joint4 ,strand #a has now to be worked inside the rope where the core came out4 ,to do that1 take a flat tucking spike and drive it through the strands #a and the next one with the point coming out and covering strand #a4 ,twist the spike round in the lay of the rope1 and1 of course1 towards the original joint ,b in the splice2 but so manipulate the spike1 or 8tucker10 that strand #a will fall into the inside of the rope immediately the worker starts to twist1 as at ,c 7,fig4 #ahg74 ,when working a strand from the outside to the inside of a rope it should be done short1 sharp1 and at once4 ,good joints must be made short1 for then the twists in the strands so unite with one another as to make it appear as though they were blended into one strand4 ,the 8partner0 strand to the one just worked in--that is1 strand #a--must next be tucked out of sight1 but before that can be done it will be necessary to consider that if the wires in the strand are spun or twisted in the opposite direction to that in which the rope is 8laid0 or 8closed10 then an ordinary rope is formed4 ,but if the wires and the strands are both twisted in the same direction there is formed a make of rope commonly called a 8,langs0 or 8,albert0 laid rope4 ,in ,figs4 #agi to #ahe ordinary ropes are illustrated1 but in ,figs4 #agh1 #ahf1 and #ahg ,langs ropes are shown4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ahh4--;,half-round ,top-,swage4 ,in an ordinary rope the strands are tucked into the inside1 side by side at the joint1 which is known as a 8flat joint10 while in the case of a ,langs rope the strands are crossed over each other at the joint1 and this is known as a round joint4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ahi4--,wire ,rope ,clamp4 ,fig4 #ahg also illustrates a good way to place the spikes to work in strand #a and make a round joint4 ,each spike is driven through two strands1 and1 as shown1 ,a is the leading spike which tucks the strand into its place1 while ,b is used simply to combine with ,a in making the joint and forcing the strand #a into the centre of the rope4 ,this is effected by placing the strand between the points of the two spikes and twisting them up in opposite directions4 ,if the spike ,a is twisted up towards the worker1 and spike ,b in the opposite direction1 the obvious result is that the points of the two spikes come down1 and simply crush strand #a into the centre of the rope4 ,then go on twisting spike ,a along the lay1 and spike ,b can be pulled out as soon as the worker gets away from the joint4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aij4--,link ,socket4 ,if these joints are closely and neatly made1 each in its own way1 the two strands forming the joint knit into each other's lay or twist1 and will be scarcely noticeable4 ,the above operation must1 of course1 be repeated until all the ends are tucked into the inside of the rope4 ,tuck them in as numbered in ,fig4 #ahf1 namely #a1 #a1 #b1 #b1 and so on4 ,be very particular in seeing that the ends exactly butt each other1 or a lump results on the splice2 if they do not butt1 the outer strands will sink in4 ,when all the ends are properly tucked1 the long splice is practically completed1 but it will improve matters to round off all joints and uneven places with a half-round top-swage1 about the same diameter as the rope4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aia4--,side ,view of ,socket4 ,fig4 #aib4--,socket ,opened ,out4 ,about all the tools necessary for long-splicing are two flat spikes or tuckers and one round one1 each say #ah in4 long1 a sledge and set for cutting the rope and strands1 a hand hammer for driving in the spikes1 a strong pair of cutting pliers and the top-swage 7,fig4 #ahh74 ,a very useful wire rope clamp is shown in ,fig4 #ahi4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aic4--,socket in ,wire ,rope4 ,in addition to the method of fitting attachments to wire ropes by means of splicing1 as already described in this chapter1 there is the method of socketing1 shoeing1 or capping1 as it is variously called4 ,there is a great difference between the rough product of the colliery black-smith1 in the shape of the common link socket1 and the highly finished cast-steel socket or the turned steel socket of the engineer2 and in concluding this chapter it is purposed to deal with them all4 ,fig4 #aij is a view of the ordinary link socket1 often used at collieries as a means of temporarily repairing a broken rope4 ,a whipping of soft wire or spun yarn is put on each end of the rope1 and a few wires then bent sharply back over the whipping and cut off an inch or two shorter than the socket that fits over them4 ,the rest of the rope-end is cut off as close to the whipping as possible1 and the sockets1 which1 of course1 are ready opened1 are put on1 hammered down close1 and firmly clinched with three rivets4 ,a very common socket in everyday use is shown by ,figs4 #aia to #aic2 this is principally used on haulage ropes and ships' steering-gear4 ,the eye may be of either round or square section1 the latter being the strongest and best4 ,as a rule1 these sockets are fixed on the rope by means of rivets only1 but when attached to winding ropes they are secured with strong steel hoops1 which are forged to make a close fit at intermediate distances on the socket1 as in ,fig4 #aid4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aid4--;,hooped ,winding ,rope ,socket4 ,sometimes hoops are used in conjunction with rivets4 ,when a hooped socket leaves the black-smith's shop1 the hoops should be a close fit at equal distances on the socket2 and as a guide to replacing them correctly1 both socket and hoops should be pop-marked with a centre-punch as shown4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aie4--,preparing ,bulb on ,wire ,rope ,end4 ,the method of preparing the wire rope for these sockets is the same whether hoops or rivets are used4 ,first put a strong wire whipping on the rope at about the length of the socket from the rope-end4 ,untwist the wires of the part left over and straighten them out 7see ,fig4 #aie72 then bend them sharply back1 one or two at a time1 over the whipping and over the rope4 ,if the rope has a wire core in the centre1 the wires forming it should be bent back the same as the outside wires2 but if the core is of hemp1 it must be cut off close to the whipping4 ,after hammering snug and close1 all these wires have to be cut to a different length1 so as to form a tapered bulb corresponding to the tapered cavity inside the socket4 ,cut the longest wires an inch or two shorter than the length of the socket1 measuring from ,a to ,b 7,fig4 #aic71 and gradually make the other wires shorter and shorter all the way towards the end4 ,these wires must now be tightly and closely served with soft copper wire or spun yarn1 using the serving-mallet already described in this chapter4 ,for common work spun yarn is used1 and for the best class of work soft copper wire4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aif4--;,finished ,bulb on ,wire ,rope ,end4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aig4--,set-hammer for ,tightening ,hoops4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aih4--,solid ,socket with ,closed ,end4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aii4--,solid ,socket with ,closed ,end4 ,in bending back the wires1 care must be taken to ensure their being bent equally all round the rope and not merely at the top and bottom or on one side only4 ,the object is to form on the end of the rope a bulb which will completely fill the cavity inside the socket4 ,to do this1 the operator should work with the closed socket beside him and take the measurement of the inside of the socket at both ends with a pair of inside callipers1 and the size of the bulb as it progresses with outside callipers1 comparing the two4 ,the socket may have been made rather large inside1 in which case it will be necessary to put on two or more layers of serving to bring the bulb to the required size4 ,the rope should then appear as in ,fig4 #aif4 ,the eye of the socket must now be made red-hot4 ,cool down all but the extreme back of the eye ,a 7,fig4 #aib7 by the application of water1 and open the socket out sufficiently to allow of the bulb being pushed into place4 ,let the end of the bulb come just to the shoulder ,a 7,fig4 #aic7 of the socket2 then hammer the socket on the anvil1 or screw it up in the vice1 until it is as close as it will go4 ,cool it down and drive in the rivets1 clinching them well1 with a big strong head on each side1 for which purpose the holes must be well countersunk4 ,the rivets should be made of good riveting iron or of mild steel4 ,a properly filled socket should show1 when finished1 a -in4 opening between the jaws down its full length on both sides 7see ,figs #aic and #aid71 which would prove that the socket was properly gripping the bulb4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bjj4--,plan of ,solid ,socket with ,open ,end4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bja4--;,elevation of a ,solid ,socket with ,open ,end4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bjb4--;,another ,elevation of a ,solid ,socket with ,open ,end4 ,when fitting a hooped socket1 first pop-mark the parts1 then remove the hoops and thread them on to the rope1 the smallest first and the others in order2 they are thus easily returned to their proper places4 ,as soon as the hoops are replaced1 the socket should be taken out of the vice and held end down on a block or anvil while the hoops are driven tightly home with a set-hammer 7,fig4 #aig7 and sledge4 ,to give a better finish1 and to prevent the hoops from working back or wet from entering1 they are sometimes caulked on the tapered side ,a 7,fig4 #aid7 with a caulking set4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bjc4--,riveted ,flat ,rope ,socket4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bjd4--;,cramped ,flat ,rope ,socket4 ,for crane ropes or colliery winding ropes1 steel sockets are sometimes cast solid1 some with closed eyes for the ,d shackle1 as in ,figs4 #aih and #aii1 and others with open ends with holes for a slotted pin1 as in ,figs4 #bjj to #bjb1 the two latter being side views of alternative shapes4 ,the form shown by ,figs4 #aih and #aii is the more difficult to fit1 as it is obvious that the rope must first be pushed through the socket and brought out at one side of the eye before the bulb can be formed1 when it has to be either pulled or hammered back until it is quite tight in the socket4 ,after the bulb of these solid sockets has been pulled or driven into place1 it is usual to drive a round tapered copper plug into the core of the bulb1 to solidify it and increase its grip with the socket4 ,sometimes molten white metal is poured in to fill up the interstices between the rope and the socket4 ,the hole at the small end of these sockets is made only a very little larger than the diameter of the rope1 so that it is impossible for the bulb to pull through if properly made4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bje4--,socket ,cramp4 ,flat wire ropes1 which are not much used now1 also have to be socketed1 as they cannot be spliced4 ,there are various methods of fixing flat rope sockets1 varying with the strain and the conditions under which they work4 ,the most usual method is to bend the wire ends back equally on both sides to make the bulb fit the inside of the socket1 and to secure with a liberal supply of rivets 7see ,fig4 #bjc74 ,for stronger work1 the rope-end1 after being cut off square1 is bent round the shackle pin1 and the socket made to grip both the rope and its end1 the whole being firmly secured by means of strong iron clamps and bolts 7see ,figs4 #bjd and #bje74 ,in order to drive the rivets through the compressed rope after the socket is tightened1 it is necessary to make the way easy for them by driving in tapered spikes of the shape shown by ,figs4 #bjf and #bjg4 ,these require a hole in the end to take the end of a stout marlinespike1 for the purpose of withdrawing them from the hole4 ,they must be made of mild steel4 ,illustration3 ,figs4 #bjf and #bjg4--,riveting ,spikes4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bjh4--,rivet4 ,the best form of rivet is shown by ,fig4 #bjh2 it must be made longer than the diameter of the socket1 to allow for clinching the other head4 ,,index4 ,albert ,laid ,rope1 #adg ,arm ,gaskets1 #ig ,artificial ,eye on ,rope ,end1 #ih ,artilleryman's ,ring ,knot1 #di ,band ,driving ,rope1 #acc 8,becket10 #ajg ,belaying1 #ajc ---- ,cleat1 #ajc ---- ,pin1 #ajc ,bellringer's ,knot1 #hh 8,bend10 #aj ---- ,shortening1 #eb ,bending ,rope to ,loop1 #ch ,bends1 #cd-db ,bessemer ,steel ,wire ,rope1 ,safe ,load on1 #ab ,bight of ,rope1 ,definition of1 #ae1 #af ,blackwall ,hitch1 #ci ,block1 ,securing1 to ,rope1 #fe ----1 ,stropping1 #ajg ,blood ,knot1 #ae ,boat ,fender1 #ajd1 #aje ---- ---- with ,ropeyarn ,heart1 #aje ---- ,knot1 ,shortening1 #eg ---- ,ring ,knot1 #dc1 #dd1 #de ,boatswain's ,chair1 #aca ,bow ,knot1 #ai ,bowline on ,bight1 #bh ---- ,knot1 #bg ,builder's ,double ,knot1 #cb ---- ,knot1 #cj1 #ca1 #dg ,bulb1 ,preparing1 on ,wire ,rope1 #aea ,bunt ,gaskets1 #ig ,bunting ,fringe1 #aae ,buoy ,rope ,knot1 #gd ,cable ,splice1 #ib1 #ic ,cable-laid ,rope1 #aj1 #aa ,calf ,knot1 #ah ,can ,sling1 #hj1 #ha ,capping ,wire ,rope1 #aej ,capstan ,ring ,knot1 #di ,carrick ,bend1 #cg ,catspaw1 #cf1 #fc1 #fe ,chain ,knot for ,lashing1 #ei1 #fj ---- ---- ,shortening1 #eb ---- ---- ,double1 #eh ,chain ,lashings for ,poles and ,ledgers1 #aca ,chair1 ,boatswain's1 #acb ,check ,knot1 #bd ,chocks for ,rope ,ladders1 #aaf ,clamp1 ,wire ,rope1 #adh ,cleat1 ,belaying1 #ajc ,clews1 ,hammock1 #abh ----1 ,sail1 #cg ,clove-,hitch1 #cb1 #dg ,cocoanut ,fibre ,rope1 #aj ,coir ,rope1 #aj ,colliery ,band ,rope1 #acc ,cordage1 ,working1 #if-abd ,cotton ,ropes1 #aj ---- ----1 ,splicing1 #ic ,crabber's ,eye ,knot1 #bg ,cramp1 ,socket1 #aee ,cramped ,flat ,rope ,socket1 #aee ,crane ,rope1 ,splicing ,thimble into1 #ada ,cross ,lashing1 #fj ,crown ,knot or ,crowning1 #fg1 #fh1 #aaa ,crucible ,steel ,wire ,rope1 ,safe ,load on1 #ab ,cut ,splice1 #ib ,dalliance ,knot1 #hc ,davenport ,brothers' ,knot1 #hf-hg ,delay ,knot1 #di ,diamond ,knot1 #ga1 #gb ---- ----1 ,double1 #gb ---- ----1 ,single1 #gb ,dogshanks ,shortening ,knot1 #ed ,double ,boat ,ring ,knot1 #de ---- ,chain ,knot1 ,shortening1 #eh ---- ,diamond ,knot1 #gb ---- ,lark's ,head ,ring ,knot1 #dg ---- ,pitcher ,knot1 #gi ,end ,seizing1 #if ,eye1 ,artificial1 on ,rope ,end1 #ih ----1 ,flemish1 #ig ---- ,knots1 #bd-bi ----1 ,left-handed1 ,splicing1 #ada ---- ,seizing1 #if ---- ,splice1 #ib ---- ,wire ,rope ,splice1 #acd1 #ace ,fairleader1 #ajc ,fancy ,knots1 #ff-hh ,fender1 ,boat's1 #ajd1 #aje ,fid for ,rope ,splicing1 #ia ,figure-of-,eight ,knot1 #af ,fisherman's ,bend1 #cd ---- ,eye ,knot1 #bd ---- ,knot1 #ba ,flat ,hemp ,rope1 ,weight of1 #ab ---- ,rope ,sockets1 #aee ,flemish ,eye1 #ig ---- ---- ,knot1 #bf ---- ,knot1 #af1 #ba ,four-stranded ,ropes1 #aj 8,foxes0 for ,mat ,making1 #aba ,french ,sennit1 #ig ---- ,shroud ,knot1 #gc ,fringe1 ,bunting1 #aae ,gaskets1 #ig ,granny ,knot1 #ah ,grommet1 ,splicing1 #ic-ie1 #ih ,gunner's ,ring ,knot1 #di ,halliard ,bend1 ,topsail1 #ce ,hammer1 ,set1 for ,tightening ,rope1 #aed ,hammock ,clew1 #abh ---- ,making1 #abe-abi ----1 ,mesh ,stick for ,making1 #abe ---- ,meshes1 #abg ----1 ,meshing1 #abf ----1 ,netting1 #abe ----1 ---- ,needle for ,making1 #abe ----1 ,slinging1 #abe ,hawser-laid ,rope1 #aa ,hemp ,rope1 ,safe ,load on1 #ab ---- ----1 ,sheave on1 #ab ---- ----1 ,weight of1 #ab ,hermann's ,trick ,knot1 #ah ,hide ,rope1 #aj 8,hitch10 #aj ,hitches1 #cj-cd ,hook1 ,mousing1 #ajf ,hooped ,socket1 ,fitting1 #aea ---- ,winding ,rope ,socket1 #aej ,jar ,sling1 #hj1 #ha ,jury ,knot1 #gi ,killick ,hitch1 #cb 8,knittles10 #aje ,knot1 ,artilleryman's ,ring1 #di ----1 ,bellringer's1 #hh ----1 ,blood1 #ae ----1 ,boat ,shortening1 #eg ----1 ---- ,ring1 #dc-de ----1 ,bow1 #ai ----1 ,bowline1 #bg ----1 ,builder's1 #cj1 #ca1 #dg ----1 ---- ,double1 #cb ----1 ,buoy ,rope1 #gd ----1 ,calf1 #ah ----1 ,capstan ,ring1 #di ----1 ,chain ,shortening1 #eb ----1 ,check1 #bd ----1 ,crabber's ,eye1 #bg ----1 ,crown1 #fg1 #fh1 #aaa ----1 ,dalliance1 #hc ----1 ,davenport ,brothers'1 #hf1 #hg ----1 ,delay1 #di ----1 ,diamond1 #ga1 #gb ----1 ,dogshanks ,shortening1 #ed ----1 ,double ,boat ,ring1 #de ----1 ---- ,chain ,shortening1 #eh ----1 ---- ,diamond1 #gb ----1 ---- ,lark's ,head ,ring1 #dg ----1 ---- ,pitcher1 #gi ----1 ,eye1 #bd-bi ----1 ,fancy1 #ff-hh ----1 ,figure-of-eight1 #af ----1 ,fisherman's1 #ba ----1 ---- ,eye1 #bd ----1 ,flemish1 #af1 #ba ----1 ---- ,eye1 #ig ----1 ,french ,shroud1 #gc ----1 ,granny1 #ah ----1 ,gunner's ,ring1 #di ----1 ,hermann's ,trick1 #ah ----1 ,jury1 #gi ----1 ,lark ,boat ,ring1 #dd ----1 ,lark's ,head ,ring1 #de-dg ----1 ,lubber's1 #ah ----1 ,manharness ,ring1 #di ----1 ,manrope1 #fi1 #aab ----1 ,matthew ,walker1 #gj1 #ga ----1 ,mooring1 #di ----1 ,netter's1 #bj ----1 ,openhand1 #ai ----1 ---- ,eye1 #be ----1 ,overhand1 #ae1 #ai1 #ba ----1 ,packing1 #fa ----1 ,pitcher1 #gg1 #gi ----1 ,portuguese1 #fa1 #aji ----1 ,puzzle1 #gi ----1 ,reef1 #ag ----1 ,ring1 #dc-eb ----1 ,rosette1 #ai ----1 ,running ,eye1 #bd ----1 ,sailor's1 #ag1 #ah ---- ---- ,backhanded ,ring1 #dh ----1 ---- ,ring1 #di ----1 ,security of1 #aj ----1 ,shamrock1 #ha1 #hc ----1 ,sheepshanks ,shortening4 #ed ----1 ,shortening1 #eh ----1 ,shroud1 #gb1 #gc ----1 ,single ,diamond1 #gb ----1 ---- ,pitcher1 #gg ----1 ,slip ,eye1 #bd ----1 ,slipper ,ring1 #dc ----1 ,spritsail ,sheet1 #gc ----1 ,staffordshire1 #af ----1 ,stationer's1 #db ----1 ,stopper1 #ae1 #fg ----1 ,tack1 #fi1 #gj ----1 ,thumb1 #bj ----1 ,tom ,fool's1 #gg ----1 ,treble ,lark's ,head ,ring1 #dg ----1 ,trick1 #ah1 #gi1 #hc-hg ----1 ,true1 #ag ----1 8,true-,lover's10 #gi ----1 ,turk's ,head1 #ge-gg ----1 ,twist ,shortening1 #ec ----1 ,wall1 #ff1 #fi1 #aaj1 #aaa ----1 ,weaver's1 #bj ----1 ,wedding1 #ei ----1 ,whipcord1 #bc ,knotting1 ,material for ,practising1 #ac ,ladder ,chocks1 #aaf ---- ,rope1 #aaf-aba ---- ,rounds1 #aaf ,lancashire ,system of ,splicing ,cotton ,ropes1 #ic ,langs-laid ,rope1 #adg ,lanyard1 #ajd ,lark ,boat ,ring ,knot1 #dd ---- ,ring ,knot with ,crossed ,ends1 #df ,lark's ,head ,ring ,knot1 #de-dg ---- ---- ---- ---- ,stoppered1 #de ,lashing1 ,chain1 for ,poles and ,ledgers1 #aca ----1 ,cross1 #fj ----1 ,regulating1 #da ----1 ,rope1 for ,poles and ,ledgers1 #aca ,lashings and ,ties1 #ei-fe ---- for ,scaffolding1 #acj-acb ,ledger and ,pole ,lashings1 #aca ,left-handed ,eye-,splicing1 #ada ---- ,rope ,splicing1 #ace ,link ,socket1 #aej ,long-splicing1 #ia1 #ace1 #adc1 #adf ,loop ,shortening1 #eb ,lovers' ,knot1 ,true1 #gi ,lubber's ,knot1 #ah ,magnus ,hitch1 #cc ,mainstay1 #aji ,mallet1 ,serving1 used in ,rope ,splicing1 #ajb1 #acg ,manharness ,ring ,knot1 #di ,manilla-grass ,rope1 #aj ,manrope ,knot1 #fi1 #aab ,marlinespike for ,rope ,splicing1 #ia ---- ,hitch1 #ci ,marling1 #ajb 8,marrying0 ,wire ,rope ,splice1 #ace ,mason's ,whipping1 #fh ,mat ,making1 #aba-abd ----1 ,sword1 #abb ----1 ,thrumming1 #abb ,matthew ,walker ,knot1 #gj1 #ga ,mesh ,stick used in ,hammock ,making1 #abe ,meshes1 ,chain of1 #abg ,meshing in ,hammock ,making1 #abf ,middle ,seizing1 #if ,midshipman's ,hitch1 #ci ,mooring ,knot1 #di ,mousing a ,hook1 #ajf ,necklace ,tie1 #fj ,netter's ,knot1 #bj ,netting of ,hammocks1 #abe ---- ,needle1 #abe 8,nettles10 #aje ,nippering1 #fb ,openhand ,eye ,knot1 #be ---- ,knot1 #ai ,overhand ,knot1 #ae ---- ,knot ,joining two ,ropes1 #ba ,packing1 #fb ---- ,knot1 #fj ,parcelling1 #ajj ,pilot ,ladder1 #abj ,pitcher ,knot1 ,double1 #gi ---- ----1 ,single1 #gg ,pin1 ,belaying1 #ajc ,pointing ,end of ,yoke ,line1 #aab ---- ,rope1 #ajg1 #ajh ,pole and ,ledger ,lashings1 #aca ,portuguese ,knot1 #fa1 #aji ,pricker used in ,rope ,splicing1 #ia ,putlogs1 ,lashings for1 #aca ,puzzle ,knot1 #gi ,quarter ,gaskets1 #ig ,racking ,hitch1 #cf ,raumur ,experiments on the ,strengths of ,ropes1 #ac ,reef ,knot1 #ag ,regulating ,lashing1 #da ,right-handed ,splicing1 #ace-adj ,ring ,knots1 #dc-eb ,riveted ,flat ,rope ,sockets1 #aee ,riveting ,spikes1 #aee ,rolling ,hitch1 #ce ,rope1 ,cable-laid1 #aj ---- ,formation1 #i ----1 ,four-stranded1 #aj ---- ,ladder1 #aaf-aba ---- ,making1 ,principle of1 #ab1 #ac ---- ,materials1 #aj ----1 ,method of ,measuring1 #aa ----1 ,sizes of1 #aa ---- ,sockets1 ,flat1 #aee ---- ,splicing1 #hi-ie ----1 ,three-stranded1 #aj ----1 ,weight of1 #ab ,ropeyarn ,heart1 ,fender with1 #aje ,rosette ,knot1 #ai ,round ,seizing1 #if1 #ig ,rungs1 ,rope ,ladder1 #aaf1 #aah ,running ,bowline1 #bh ---- ,eye ,knot1 #bd ---- ,knot1 #bi1 #cj ,sailors' ,backhanded ,ring ,knot1 #dh ---- ,knot1 #ag1 #ah ---- ,ring ,knot1 #di ,sally of ,bellringer's ,knot1 #hh ,scaffolding1 ,ties and ,lashings for1 #acj-acb ,seizing1 #if ----1 ,end1 #if ----1 ,eye1 #if ----1 ,middle1 #if ----1 ,round1 #if1 #ig ---- ,stuff1 #aa ----1 ,throat1 #if ---- ,wire1 #adj ,selvagee1 #ih1 #ii ,sennit1 #ig ----1 ,french1 #ig ,serving1 #ajb ---- ,mallet1 #ajc1 #acg ---- ,wire ,rope1 #acf ,set-hammer for ,tightening ,rope1 #aed ,shamrock ,knot1 #ha1 #hc ,shear-legs1 #aji ,sheave of ,hemp ,rope1 #ab ---- ---- ,wire ,rope1 #ab ,sheepshanks ,shortening ,knot1 #ed-ef ---- ,toggled ,knot ,shortening1 #eg ,sheet ,bend1 #cg1 #ch ---- ,knot1 ,spritsail1 #gc ,shoeing ,wire ,rope1 #aej 8,shortenings10 #eb ----1 ,bend1 #eb ----1 ,loop1 #eb ,shroud ,knot1 #gb1 #gc ---- ----1 ,french1 #gc ,shroud-laid ,rope1 #aa ,single ,diamond ,knot1 #gb ---- ,pitcher ,knot1 #gg ,sizes of ,ropes1 #aa1 #ac ,sling for ,can or ,jar1 #hj1 #ha ,slinging ,hammocks1 #abe ---- ,plank for use as ,stage1 #acb ,slip ,eye ,knot1 #bd ,slipper ,ring ,knot1 #dc ,slippery ,hitch1 #cg ,socket1 #aej ---- ,cramp1 #aee ----1 ,fitting ,hooped1 #aee ----1 ,flat ,rope1 #aee ----1 ,hooped ,winding ,rope1 #aej ----1 ,link1 #aej ----1 ,solid1 with ,closed ,ends1 #aed ----1 ----1 with ,open ,ends1 #aed ,socketing ,wire ,ropes1 #acc-aee ,splice1 ,cable1 #ib1 #ic ----1 ,cut1 #ib ----1 ,eye1 #ib ----1 ,long1 #ia ----1 ,short1 #hi ----1 ,wire ,rope ,eye1 #acd1 #ace ----1 ---- ---- ,long1 #acd ----1 ---- ---- ,short1 #acd ,splicing1 #hi-ie ---- ,cotton ,ropes1 #ic ---- ,grommet1 #ic-ie1 #ih ----1 ,long1 #adc-adf ----1 ,method of ,starting1 #ada1 #adb ---- ,wire ,ropes1 #acc-aee ,spikes1 ,riveting1 #aee ---- for ,splicing1 #adh ,spritsail ,sheet ,knot1 #gc ,staffordshire ,knot1 #af ,stages1 ,painters'1 #acb ,stationer's ,knot1 #db ,steel ,wire ,rope1 ,safe ,load on1 #ab ,stern ,ladder1 #aaf ,stick1 ,mesh1 used in ,hammock ,making1 #abe ,stopper ,knot1 #ae1 #fg ,stranded ,ropes1 #aj1 #aa 8,strands10 #aj ,stropping ,block1 #ajg ,swage1 ,top1 #adi ,sword ,mat1 #abb ,tack ,knot1 #fi1 #gj ,thimble1 #ajf ----1 ,splicing1 into ,crane ,rope1 #ada ----1 ----1 ---- ,trawl-warp1 #ada ,thread1 ,strength of1 #ac ,three-stranded ,rope1 #aj1 #aa ,throat ,seizing1 #if ,thrumming ,mats1 #abb ,thumb ,knot1 #bj ,ties and ,lashings1 #ei-fe ---- for ,scaffolding1 #acj-acb ,timber ,hitch1 #cb ,toe ,chock for ,rope ,ladder1 #aaf ,toggle1 #ajd ,tom ,fool's ,knot1 #gg ,topsail ,halliard ,bend1 #ce ,top-swage1 #adi ,trawl-warp1 ,splicing ,thimble into1 #ada ,treble ,lark's ,head ,ring ,knot1 #dg ,trick ,knot1 #ah1 #gi1 #hc-hg ,true ,knot1 #ag ,true-lover's ,knot1 #gi ,tuckers or ,spikes for ,splicing1 #adh ,tufting of ,bellringer's ,knot1 #hh ,turk's ,head ,knot1 #ge-gg ,twist ,shortening ,knot1 #ec ,wall ,knot1 #ff1 #fi1 #aaj1 #aaa ,weaver's ,knot1 #bj ,wedding ,knot1 #ei ,wedging ,scaffold ,lashings1 #acb ,weight of ,ropes1 #ab ,whipping1 #fa1 #fb ----1 ,west ,country1 #fb1 #fc ,whipcord ,knot1 #bc ,wire ,rope ,clamp1 #adi ---- ----1 ,safe ,load on1 #ab ---- ---- ,sheave of1 #ab ---- ---- ,socketing1 #adi-aee ---- ---- ,splicing1 #acc-adi ---- ----1 ,weight of1 #ab ,worming1 #ii 8,yarns10 #aj ,yoke ,lines1 #aji ---- ----1 ,fastening ,off1 #aae ---- ----1 ,pointing ,end of1 #aab ,,printed ,,by ,,cassell ,,company1 ,,limited1 ,,ludgate ,,hill1 ,,london1 ,e4,c4 #cj4gje ,,transcriber',s ,,notes4 #a4 ,silently corrected simple spelling1 grammar1 and typographical errors4