,,the ,,journal ,,of      ,,montaigne',s
 ,,travels      ,,in ,,italy            
,illustration3 ,michel de ,montaigne    
,,the ,,journal ,,of      ,,montaigne',s
 ,,travels      ,,in ,,italy ,,by ,,way 
,,of ,,switzerland      ,,and ,,germany 
,,in #aehj ,,and #aeha                  
,,translated ,,and ,,edited      ,,with 
,,an ,,introduction ,,and ,,notes       
,,by ,w4 ,g4 ,,waters      ,,author ,,of
 8,,jerome ,,cardan10 ,,etc4        ,,in
 ,,three ,,volumes        ,,vol4 ,i     
,,london      ,,john ,,murray1          
,,albemarle ,,street      #aijc         
,,preface      ,up to ,february #af1    
#aeha1 the 8,journal0 of ,montaigne's   
travels was  written down from dictation
 by a confidential servant1 who seems to
  have combined the duties of secretary 
and valet4 ,on the date aforesaid       
,montaigne either dismissed him or gave 
him leave of absence1 and set to  work  
to keep the diary himself4 ,the portion 
of the 8,journal0 written  by the       
secretary presents certain difficulties 

in translation1 seeing  that he wrote   
sometimes in the first and sometimes in 
the third person1  and occasionally had 
to describe events which happened in his
 absence1  but as far as possible       
uniform diction has been secured4 ,in   
the earlier  part ,montaigne added      
divers notes to the margin of the ,,ms4 
in his own  handwriting1 thus showing   
that he revised that portion which he   
did not  write4 ,from ,may #ae1 to      
,november #a1 #aeha1 ,montaigne used the
 ,italian  tongue1 reverting to ,french 
as soon as he crossed ,mont ,cenis4     
,a translation of the 8,journal0 was    
made by ,w4 ,hazlitt in #ahdb and       
annexed to his edition of ,cotton's     
8,essays40 ,in a recent reprint of  the 
8,essays0 and of all the extant         
8,letters10 ,mr4 ,w4 ,c4 ,hazlitt1 in an
  introduction1 remarks1 as a reason for
 not including the 8,journal10  that it 
is all in the third person1 and was     
dictated by ,montaigne to  his          
secretary1 being unaware1 apparently1   

that more than half of it was  written  
in the first person by ,montaigne       
himself4    ,the portions of the        
8,journal0 which deal with ,montaigne's 
sojourn at  the baths of ,lucca are full
 of details of the symptoms of the      
malady  which troubled him1 and of the  
results of the curative treatment4 ,in  
these it has been thought permissible to
 abbreviate some passages  and to omit  
others entirely1 seeing that they are at
 the same time  valueless and           
unpleasant4 ,but not a word which refers
 to any matter  of general interest has 
been repressed2 uninteresting medical   
details  alone have been left out4      
,w4 ,g4 ,,waters4        ,august #aijc4 
,,contents          ,,chap4      ,,page 
,,introduction                          
#a        ,i4 ,,france                  
#be        ,,ii4 ,,switzerland          
#fj        ,,iii4 ,,the ,,empire        
#ig        ,,iv4 ,,tirol                
#aei          ,,list ,,of               
,,illustrations    ,,vol4 ,i            

,,michel ,,de ,,montaigne               
7,photogravure7      ,frontispiece      
,,meaux        ,to face page #bf        
,,basel              0        #fb       
,,baden ,,en ,,argow     0        #gf   
,,constance          0        #if       
,,kempten            0       #aaf       
,,augsburg           0       #abh       
,,munich             0       #aej       
,,innsbruck          0       #aeh       
,,brixen             0       #agb       
,,trent              0       #ahj       
,,introduction      ,in the world of    
literature there are many instances     
which exhibit  the personality of a     
particular writer identified so         
completely with  certain of his works   
that he is1 so to speak1 divorced from  
all  association with any others1       
however great their merit1 which he  may
 have left behind him4 ,the popular     
verdict1 so often swayed by             
incomprehensible impulse1 is given in   
favour of one or two books1  and all the
 rest fall into oblivion or neglect4    

,how trifling is the  vogue of ,walton's
 8,lives0 compared with that of the     
8,angler40 ,to the  multitude ,swift is 
known almost entirely as the author of  
,gulliver1  and the name of ,gray       
suggests the 8,elegy0 as inevitably as  
that of  ,cowper suggests 8,john        
,gilpin40 ,in like manner we find the   
fame of  ,montaigne resting on the      
8,essays0 alone2 but this case is in a  
measure  exceptional4 ,montaigne died in
 #aeib1 and until #aggd the 8,essays0   
comprised the whole of his literary     
legacy4 ,in the year last mentioned1  a 
certain ,m4 ,prunis1 who was collecting 
materials for a history of  ,perigord1  
discovered in a chest at the ,chteau de 
,montaigne the  manuscript account of   
the writer's travels in ,switzerland1   
the ,empire1  and ,italy in the years   
#aehj and #aeha4    ,notwithstanding the
 fame of the writer1 and the inherent   
interest of  the long-hidden work1 the  
8,journal0 failed to win the public     
favour1  and virtually ,montaigne still 

kept the status of a single book author4
  ,it has never roused much enthusiasm  
in ,france1 in spite of a generous  and 
appreciative article by ,sainte-,beuve  
in the ,nouveaux ,lundis4  8,montaigne10
 he writes1 8is the intimate friend of  
every one of us1  and of our intimate   
friends it is impossible to know too    
much40 ,and he  then goes on to         
demonstrate the extraordinary value and 
interest of the  8,journal0 when read in
 connection with the 8,essays40 ,it is  
casting  no slur on the 8,journal0 to   
say that it is inferior to the writers  
masterpiece in literary grace2 and1 so  
much being granted1 it may be  asserted 
that nowhere in ,montaigne's writings is
 his personality1 with  its attractive  
wisdom and no less attractive           
weaknesses1 more clearly  and completely
 exhibited than in the work under       
consideration4    ,this excellence of   
self-portraiture may be explained by the
 fact that  the ,montaigne of the       
8,essays0 greets us as the philosopher  

in his  study1 face to face with the    
innumerable problems to be canvassed  in
 determining the rules which should     
guide man's conduct towards  his        
fellows4 ,here with laborious care he   
searches the world of books  for        
illustrations apt for the establishment 
of his position and  for its defence4   
,now and then1 in spite of the quaint   
charm of the  writing1 it seems as if we
 cannot see the wood for the trees1 and 
we  regret that we cannot enjoy a closer
 personal acquaintance with the  author1
 a knowledge at first hand1 and not     
blurred by the cloud of  approving      
witnesses which it has pleased him to   
summon up from the  caverns of the      
libraries4 ,but with the ,montaigne of  
the 8,journal0 it  is altogether        
different4 ,here we find the man giving 
his experience  of a phase of life      
which1 for good or evil1 has become     
almost normal  in these latter days4    
,most of us have crossed the ,alps and  
descended  upon ,italy2 and1 changed as 

the conditions of travel are1 it raises 
a  sympathetic interest to read of the  
humours of the road in ,montaigne's     
time1 and to compare his experience with
 our own4 ,we are introduced  to him    
face to face with troubles and          
pleasures1 the intensity of  which it is
 not difficult to gauge3 the knavery of 
postmasters3 the  stupidity of guides3  
the discomfort of this inn1 and the     
excellence  of that4 ,we listen to his  
simple narrative of his experience of   
men  and cities1 and learn to know him  
better here than when encumbered by  the
 swarming hypotheses and guarding       
clauses which fill the pages of  his    
opus magnum4 ,when he begins to         
speculate1 his reflections are  given in
 the plainest words1 and rarely fail to 
reveal one or other  of those lovable   
personal traits with which acquaintance1
 as well as  tradition1 will have       
invested him4 ,his large-minded         
toleration1 his  fastidious care lest   
any judgment given should be based on   

insufficient  knowledge1 and his        
reluctance to commit himself to any     
positive  statement--characteristics    
which dominate the drift of thought in  
the  8,essays0--reappear in the         
8,journal10 and help to give to his     
utterances  on the world as he found it 
an authority which few contemporary     
travellers could claim4    ,in any      
comparison he felt bound to draw between
 things in ,france and  things over the 
frontier1 toleration is his watchword2  
and he knew  no more of the spirit of   
,chauvinism than he did of the word4    
,but he  seems to have found some       
tendencies in that direction in the     
carriage  of certain young ,frenchmen   
whom he met at ,padua1 and he goes on to
  lament that the number of these should
 be large enough to constitute a        
society in itself1 and that on this     
account his young countrymen should  be 
debarred from making acquaintance with  
the people of the place4  ,again1 he    
shows a little resentment at finding    

himself surrounded by  such a crowd of  
,frenchmen as he found in ,rome4 ,he is 
full of praise  of the iron work of     
,switzerland1 and of the cookery as     
well4 ,the  bed-chambers in ,germany did
 not always please him1 but he could not
  say too much in favour of the         
porcelain stoves and the coverlets      
stuffed with feathers2 and when he found
 the charges at the baths of  ,baden a  
little arbitrary1 he adds that he would 
have fared no better  in ,france4 ,he   
describes the private houses round      
,constance as being  far superior to the
 parallel class of house in ,france2    
and1 in taking  exception in a general  
way to defects in the service at the    
inns1 he  remarks that these things     
seemed amiss to him chiefly because they
 were  unfamiliar3 indeed1 he lavished  
so much praise on ,german ways of living
  that the patriotism of his amanuensis1
 was in one instance stirred  to        
remonstrance4 ,montaigne had evidently a
 strong liking for ,germany  7though    

indeed he is somewhat uncomplimentary as
 to the personal charms  of the ladies  
of ,augsburg7 and he left it with       
reluctance2 for1 when he  arrived at    
,botzen and marked the prevalence of    
,italian customs there1  he wrote in a  
strain of regret to ,francis ,hottoman1 
the jurisconsult  whom he had met at    
,basel1 expressing his satisfaction at  
the treatment  he had met with in that  
city and his regrets at bidding farewell
 to  the ,empire1 even though his goal  
were ,italy4 ,vanity is the proverbial  
weakness of the ,frenchman1 but the only
 trace of it in ,montaigne's  record is 
to be found in his action at ,augsburg  
when some of the town  officers took him
 for a baron1 and he bade his companions
 not correct  the error4 ,his remarks   
thereanent show that he was more swayed 
by  considerations of practical utility 
than by the desire of personal          
exaltation2 as he goes on to say that1  
being credited with a baron's  rank1 he 
would doubtless receive more attention  

from the hands of the  authorities4     
,to show how little of the braggart was 
in him it may be noted that when  he    
visited the church of ,s4 ,lorenzo at   
,florence he did not refrain  from      
naming1 amongst the other sights he saw 
there1 the ,french banners  captured    
from ,marshal ,strozzi's forces by the  
,florentines1 and when  on his way home 
he passed by ,fornovo1 the scene of the 
great ,french  victory in #adie1 does   
not allude to the battle at all4 ,on the
 other  hand1 he expressly records that 
he turned aside from the road between   
,pavia and ,milan to view the field of  
the battle so disastrous to the  arms of
 ,france4    ,the bent of ,montaigne's  
mind led him to devote his chief        
attention to  the rules and institutions
 which regulated public life in the     
lands he  visited1 rather than to what  
modern travellers call 8sights10 and in 
,fynes ,moryson's travels about ten1 and
 in ,coryat's about thirty years  later1
 the same tendencies appear4 ,when at   

any time he does describe  any human    
achievement1 it is usually some         
mechanical device1 such as  the         
watch-tower and the water-works at      
,augsburg4 ,italy was rich1 or  probably
 much richer1 in paintings than she is  
now1 but only on three  or four         
occasions does he find any worth        
mentioning4 ,nevertheless he  writes    
pages in praise of the ridiculous       
squirts and tubes which are  devised to 
drench the unwary visitors to ,italian  
gardens now1 just as  they did at the   
time when he was on his travels4        
,artificial water-works  of all sorts   
seem to have had a peculiar fascination 
for him3 indeed  on his way back to     
,france he paid a second visit to       
,pratolino1 near  ,florence1 in order to
 compare the merits of the fountains    
there with  those which he had seen at  
,tivoli4 ,he ends the description of his
  expedition with the following         
thoroughly characteristic sentences3    
8,et  essendo pregato dal casiero del   

palazzo di dire la mia sentenzia di     
quelle bellezze e di ,tivoli1 ne        
discorsi non comparando questi luoghi   
in generale1 ma parte per parte1 con le 
diverse considerazioni dell'un  e       
dell'altro1 essendo vicendevolmente     
vittore ora questo1 or quello40         
,perhaps it would be unfair to attribute
 to indifference ,montaigne's           
comparative silence over ,italian       
painting4 ,in his day it was not the    
fashion to write so copiously as at     
present concerning this particular      
phase of art1 nor was it deemed         
necessary that every third-rate painter 
should possess his exponent and prophet4
 ,whatever the reason1 ,montaigne       
passed it by in silence1 save in a few  
instances1 and the cause of  his        
appreciation in these cases was         
evidently that the pictures  possessed  
historic interest4 ,at ,caprarola he    
found portraits of ,henry  ,,ii4 of     
,france1 ,catherine dei ,medici and     
their two sons4 ,he mentions  the       

pictures at ,loreto1 referring probably 
to the ex voto daubs and  not to the    
works of ,signorelli and ,melozzo da    
,forli4 ,in his visit to  the ,vatican  
he notices a certain gallery which was  
being decorated  with views of ,italy1  
ancient and modern1 by the order of     
,gregory  ,,xiii41 the reigning ,pope1  
and also those by ,vasari in the ,sala  
,regia  depicting recent events of      
history which could hardly fail to      
interest  him--the battle of ,lepanto1  
the massacre of ,s4 ,bartholomew1 and   
the  death of ,coligny4 ,at ,padua he   
praises the gardens of the ,arena1 but  
leaves unnoticed the chapel and its     
frescoes3 probably he had never  heard  
,giotto's name4 ,he has much to say of  
the ,piazza at ,siena1 of  the fountain 
and of the bronze wolf1 but only a few  
words as to the  exterior of the        
,cathedral1 and not one about the many  
works of art  within4 ,at the ,certosa  
at ,pavia he mentions the carven faade  
and the  tomb of ,gian ,galeazzo        

,visconti1 but ignores the paintings4   
,sculpture  seems to have had much      
greater fascination for him3 he gives   
the names  of many of the great works in
 the ,vatican and ,capitol1 and praises 
,michael ,angelo's 8,moses0 and his     
statues in the ,medici ,chapel at       
,florence4 ,he makes special mention of 
8la belle fame qui est aus pieds  du    
,pape ,pol tiers en la nouvelle glise de
 ,s4 ,pierre10 the statue which  the    
prudery of a later ,pontiff caused to be
 encased in robes of bronze4            
,montaigne would occasionally throw a   
hard word at the ,jesuits1 and  probably
 he disliked them as a body1 but1       
however this might be1 he  seldom failed
 to seek out any member of the order who
 might be resident  in the cities he    
visited2 no doubt because he knew he    
would meet a  well-educated man1 and one
 able to converse with him on the topics
  he had most at heart4 ,at ,rome he    
gives high praise to the diligence  and 
ability of the ,jesuits1 probably for   

the reason that he found  the practical 
drift of their policy congenial to his  
own humour4 ,he  certainly showed no    
sign of enthusiasm in contemplating the 
scenes of  the more emotional phenomena 
of ,catholicism1 for he made no         
reference  to ,s4 ,catherine when       
describing ,siena1 and ,assisi he did   
not deem  worth a visit4 ,he probably   
went to ,loreto on account of the       
historic  fame of the ,santa ,casa1 and 
he was certainly much more impressed by 
the material aspect of the prevalent    
legend1 the crowds of pilgrims1  the    
shops for the sale of candles and ex    
votos1 the riches of the  treasury1 and 
the profit of the pilgrimage to the     
townsfolk1 than by  the spiritual aspect
 of the same4    ,montaigne1 sceptic as 
he was in dealing with religious        
questions1  never allowed this          
disposition to induce him to take up an 
unqualified  attitude of hostility4     
,over the claims of the miraculous he   
kept his  judgment in suspense1 and did 

not condemn as a necessary imposture    
what he could not accept as a proven    
truth4 ,joseph ,glanvil1 in             
,sadducismus ,triumphatus1 holds a      
similar position in condemning what  he 
calls 8the credulity of unbelief10 that 
is1 when sceptics1 by way  of           
discrediting phenomena which they cannot
 accept1 suggest1 as an  alternative    
explanation1 something still harder to  
believe4 ,at ,loreto1  in commenting on 
the alleged miraculous cure of a certain
 ,m4 ,marteau1  ,montaigne shows a      
marked inclination to accept the popular
 version  of the story1 and omits to    
appraise the divers subjective          
influences  which invariably play an    
important part in remedial phenomena of 
this description4 ,again1 he is swayed  
by the same humour in writing           
concerning the peculiar virtue of the   
earth in the ,campo ,santo at ,pisa1    
which was fabled to preserve human      
remains from corruption for any  length 
of time4    ,nothing that ,montaigne saw

 in his travels seems to have given him 
more  pleasure than the sight of the    
exquisite cultivation of the plains and 
hillsides in ,italy and the consequent  
well-being of the contadini4  ,on this  
subject he writes with enthusiasm and   
even astonishment while  descending the 
southern slopes of the ,alps1 and       
traversing the ,lombard  plain and the  
lovely valley of ,clitumnus4 ,nowhere in
 the 8,journal0  does he speak with a   
stronger note of gratification than in  
describing  these evidences of material 
prosperity3 not even when he tells of an
  interview with some learned man1 or   
sets down some new facts concerning     
prevalent laws and institutions1 or     
ventures on some shrewd and  luminous   
inference founded on his experiences of 
the men and cities he  had got to know  
in the course of his travels4    ,the   
part of the 8,journal0 which will be    
found most interesting to  contemporary 
readers is unquestionably that which    
describes his sojourn  in ,rome4 ,his   

perception was dazzled and awe-stricken 
at the spectacle  of the vast and       
ruinous habitation which then sheltered 
the greatest  unifying influence still  
existing in the world2 but1 impressed as
 he  was by the majesty of the ,papal   
power1 he made it quite clear that  this
 was not for him the true ,rome4 ,his   
conception of the genius of  the place  
was in the main a subjective one4 ,with 
an intelligence  disciplined and        
enriched by historic study1 he seemed to
 behold at  every turn the phantom of   
that astounding domination1 now empty1  
vain1  and shattered2 and1 in recording 
his reflections on this pregnant  theme1
 his style rises as near to rhapsody as 
his well-balanced  temperament would    
allow4    ,with respect to ,rome as he  
found it1 ,montaigne was profoundly     
impressed  by the manifestation of the  
concentrated power of the ,catholic     
,church1 the splendour of the religious 
functions1 and the activity and         
devotion of the various confraternities4

 ,he estimates this show of  religious  
enthusiasm1 and the ardour of the people
 over their spiritual  exercises1 as the
 chief glory of the place as it then    
existed4 ,at the  same time he was quite
 unconvinced by the spectacle of an     
attempt by  some priests to exorcise    
evil spirits1 and evidently viewed the  
whole  affair as a nauseous imposture1  
like ,fynes ,moryson on a subsequent    
visit4 ,his tolerant disposition is     
shown by the keen interest he took  over
 the ,lutheran baptismal and marriage   
rites which he witnessed at  ,augsburg1 
and few experiences of his travels seem 
to have interested  him more than the   
ceremony of circumcision1 which he      
witnessed in the  house of a ,jew in    
,rome1 and described in minute detail   
and at great  length4    ,the main      
object of ,montaigne's journey was to   
visit certain foreign  baths1 with the  
hope of getting relief from the pains   
which he  suffered through gall-stone   
and gravel4 ,seeing that he must almost 

always have been in pain1 or at least   
discomfort1 and that the  inconveniences
 of travel were in themselves no light  
burden in these  days1 the constant     
cheerfulness of his temper1 and his     
freshness  of sentiment and speech1     
whenever he chanced to be brought face  
to  face with some attractive           
experience1 prove what a sweet and happy
  nature his must have been4 ,he records
 how on the road from ,terni to         
,spoleto he was suffering from colic1   
which had vexed him for the  last       
four-and-twenty hours1 but this plague  
did not prevent him from  expressing his
 delight over the exquisite scenery on  
either hand4  ,travel by itself was to  
him the keenest pleasure1 as he shows in
 the  quaint remarks he lets fall when  
journeying from ,trent to ,rovere4 ,his 
companions were seemingly aggrieved that
 he occasionally led them a  wild-goose 
chase1 and brought them back to the     
point from which they  started2 but he  
gaily assured them that he never missed 

his way1  because1 as he never made     
plans1 the place in which he might find 
himself at sunset must needs be the     
legitimate end of the day's travel4     
,perhaps of all the humours he displayed
 en route1 the most marked  was his     
insatiable curiosity and his avidity of 
fresh experience4 ,he  met the ,pope    
7,gregory ,,xiii471 the ,grand ,duke of 
,tuscany1 the ,duke of  ,ferrara1 and   
cardinals1 ambassadors1 chancellors1 and
 officials out  of number1 and hardly   
one of these got rid of him without     
having to  listen and reply to divers   
well-judged questions4 ,he even went so 
far  as to pay visits to the lodgings of
 the fashionable cortigiane in  ,rome1  
as ,coryat did at ,venice4 ,in many     
places he writes in a strain  which     
shows that1 in spite of bodily ills and 
his clear perception  of the troubles of
 the world1 he felt a keen joy in life4 
,on setting  out for ,italy he declared 
he seemed to be in like case to one who 
reads some delightful story or good book

 and dreads to turn the last  page4 ,the
 pleasure of travel was to him so       
intense1 that he hated the  sight of the
 place where he ought by rights to stop 
and rest4 ,the  grant of ,roman         
citizenship evidently pleased him       
greatly1 as did his  election as ,mayor 
of ,bordeaux1 though he coquetted a     
little with the  burgesses at first4    
,but though he and the world were good  
friends1 he  kept constantly before his 
mind the certainty and the nearness of  
the  hour when they must part4 ,there is
 nothing of fear1 nothing even of       
querulousness1 in his reflections when  
he was evidently very ill at  ,lucca4   
8,it would be too great cowardice and   
ischifilt on my part if1  knowing that  
,i am every day in danger of death from 
these ailments1 and  drawing nearer     
thereto every hour in the course of     
nature1 ,i did not  do my best to bring 
myself into a fitting mood to meet my   
end whenever  it may come4 ,and in this 
respect it is wise to take joyfully all 

the  good fortune ,god may send4        
,moreover there is no remedy1 nor rule1 
nor  knowledge whereby to keep clear of 
these evils which1 from every side  and 
at every minute1 gather round man's     
footsteps1 save in the resolve  to      
endure them with dignity1 or boldly and 
promptly make an end of  them40 ,we seem
 here to be very far from the           
traditional frivolity of  the           
,frenchman2 much nearer to the calm     
wisdom of ,epictetus or ,marcus         
,aurelius4    ,montaigne travelled in   
company with ,m4 ,mattecoulon1 his      
younger  brother2 ,m4 d',estissac1      
probably the son of the lady to whom he 
dedicated the 8,essay10 ,book ii4 ,no4  
#h2 ,m4 de ,caselis1 who left the  party
 to stay on at ,padua2 and ,m4          
d',hautoy1 who seems to have remained   
with him all through the journey4       
,mattecoulon remained in ,rome after    
,montaigne's final departure1 and       
shortly after he was imprisoned on      
account of a duel 78,essays10 ii4 #bg71 

and liberated by the good offices  of   
the ,king of ,france4 ,m4 d',estissac   
seems to have remained behind with  him4
    ,the first two books of the         
8,essays0 were published in #aehj1      
before the  author set forth on his     
travels1 and the work1 as we know it1   
was first  given to the world in #aehh1 
with the third book added4 ,in this book
  he refers to several incidents of his 
sojourn in ,rome--notably to the  grant 
of ,roman citizenship which was then    
made to him4 ,in addition1  he carefully
 revised the first and second books by  
the light of his  foreign experiences1  
and made some six hundred additions1    
many of which  refer to incidents       
connected with his journey4 ,he mentions
 the strange  story of ,mary ,germain1  
who underwent transformation from the   
female to  the male sex1 a story also   
noticed by ,ambrose ,par1 the great     
,french  surgeon2 the execution at ,rome
 of ,catena1 a notorious criminal2 and  
his  visit to ,tasso at ,ferrara4       

,curiously enough1 he makes no mention  
of  this visit in the 8,journal40    ,it
 is hard to believe that a man so       
communicative as ,montaigne would  have 
kept secret from his friends the        
existence of the written record  he made
 of his journey2 and1 taking it for     
granted that the existence  of the ,,ms4
 was suspected1 it is just as hard to   
understand how it  happened that a      
search was not made for it after his    
death1 and that  it should have lain    
undiscovered till ,m4 ,prunis found it  
in #aggd4 ,the  ,,ms4 was complete1     
except a leaf or so at the beginning1   
and nearly  half of it seems to have    
been written from dictation by a valet  
or  secretary1 ,montaigne himself having
 taken up the task on ,february #afth1  
#aeha4 ,the handwriting1 both of master 
and man1 was very bad1 and it  needed   
all the skill of ,m4 ,capperonier1 the  
royal librarian at ,paris1  and of other
 experts1 to disentangle the meaning of 
the caligraphy1 and  make a legible     

copy4 ,when this was finished1 it was   
placed in the hands  of ,m4 ,querlon1   
who brought out the first edition in    
#aggd4    ,it would be unreasonable to  
expect any elegancies of style in the   
portion of the 8,journal0 written down  
by the secretary from dictation1  and   
when ,montaigne himself takes the pen in
 hand he does not greatly  mend matters4
 ,all through will be found the         
strangest mixture of  subjects1 and     
jerkiness of style4 ,the most           
incongruous themes are  treated in      
juxtaposition4 ,at ,augsburg1 at the end
 of a discussion with  a ,lutheran      
theologian1 he throws in the remark that
 they had white  hares for supper2 and  
again1 while speaking of mixed          
marriages1 he  records that here they   
clean windows with a hairbrush fixed on 
the end  of a stick4 ,at ,rome he passes
 in a breath from a consideration of the
  relative prevalence of heresy in      
,france and ,spain to a remark that all 
the cargo boats on the ,tiber are towed 

by buffaloes4 ,in cataloguing  the      
advantages of the city as a place of    
abode he tells how many  of the palaces 
of the high nobility were at the        
disposition of any  strange gentleman   
who might wish to repair thither for the
 night with a  companion to his taste1  
and how in no other city in the world   
could be  heard so many sermons and     
theological disputes4    ,as soon as he 
had crossed the ,alps on his homeward   
way ,montaigne  evidently looked upon   
his journey as over4 ,the entries in the
 8,journal0  are merely memoranda of the
 various stopping places1 and the note  
of  sadness in these closing sentences  
is very evident4 ,all interest in the   
places he passed is now vanished1 and   
the humours of the road appeal to  him  
no more4 ,he is going home1 an old man  
afflicted by an ailment which  has      
proved incurable1 with only the prospect
 of a few years of invalid  life before 
him1 and he may well be excused for     
falling into a mood  which throws a     

darker shade over the last pages of his 
record4          ,,the ,,journal ,,of   
,,montaigne',s ,,travels ,,in ,,italy   
,,by ,,way ,,of ,,switzerland ,,and     
,,germany#a ,,in #aehj ,,and #aeha      
,i    ,,france      444 ,monsieur de    
,montaigne sent ,monsieur ,mattecoulon#b
 with his squire  by post to pay a visit
 to the count#c aforesaid1 whom they    
found  wounded1 but not mortally4 ,at   
,beaumont ,m4 d',estissac joined our    
party  for the sake of company1 our     
routes being the same4 ,he had with him 
a  gentleman1 a valet-de-chambre1 two   
lackeys1 a muleteer and a mule1  an     
addition equal in number to our own     
party1 the outlay being equally         
divided4 ,on ,monday1 ,september #eth1  
we left ,beaumont after dinner1 and     
rode in one bout to ,meaux1 where we    
arrived in time for supper4             
,illustration3 ,,meaux        ,to face  
p4 #bf1 vol4 i4      ,meaux is a small  
and handsome town on the ,marne1 divided
 into three  parts4 ,the town itself and

 its suburbs are on this side of the    
river  towards ,paris1 and over the     
,marne lies another portion--the        
third--a  large suburb known as the     
,march1 surrounded on all sides by the  
river and a well-constructed ditch1 and 
containing many houses and  inhabitants4
 ,this place was formerly strongly      
fortified by high and  formidable walls 
and towers1 but in the second period of 
our ,huguenot  troubles1 the greater    
part of the inhabitants being of that   
party1 all  these defences were thrown  
down4 ,this quarter also withstood the  
attack  of the ,english1 the other      
portions of the town being ruined1 and  
by way  of reward the inhabitants of the
 ,march are still exempted from payment 
of taille and other taxes4 ,they point  
out in the ,marne an island1 two  or    
three hundred feet in length1 which was1
 they say1 originally an  embankment    
made by the ,english as a position from 
which the fortress of  the ,march might 
be bombarded by warlike engines1 the    

artificial work  having become firm     
ground in the course of time4#d ,in this
 faubourg  we saw the abbey of ,saint   
,faron1 a building of great antiquity1  
where  they show certain chambers in    
which ,ogier the ,dane#e is said to have
  dwelt4 ,there is also an ancient      
refectory1 with tables of stone1 very   
long and massive1 and of an unwonted    
size1 and in the middle of this  hall   
was formerly a spring of fresh water    
which served for drinking4  ,to this day
 most of the monks are men of gentle    
birth4 ,amongst other  things is to be  
seen an ancient and stately tomb1 upon  
which are carved  in stone the figures  
of two knights of abnormal stature1 and 
legend  says that these represent ,ogier
 the ,dane and one of his paladins4 ,it 
has neither inscription nor armorial    
device1 nothing save a sentence  in     
,latin which an abbot caused to be set  
thereon some hundred years  ago1        
recording that two unknown heroes lie   
buried below2 and in the  treasury they 

still show the bones of these knights1  
the bone of the  arm1 from shoulder to  
elbow1 being about the length of the    
entire arm  of a man of average stature 
in these days1 and a little longer than 
that of ,m4 de ,montaigne4 ,they show   
likewise two of their swords1 about  the
 length of our own two-handed swords1   
the edges gapped by strokes  of battle4 
,at ,meaux1 ,m4 de ,montaigne paid a    
visit to the treasurer of  the church of
 ,st4 ,stephen1 one ,juste ,terrelle1#f 
a man of note amongst  the savants of   
,france1 a little old man1 sixty years  
of age1 who has  visited ,egypt and     
,jerusalem1 and lived seven years in    
,constantinople4  ,he showed us his     
library and the curiosities of his      
garden1 where the  most wonderful thing 
we saw was a tree of box of round       
growth1 and so  thick by artificial     
cutting1 that it seemed to be a circular
 ball1  massive and trim1 about a man's 
height4    ,from ,meaux1 where we took  
our dinner on the ,tuesday1 we set out  

and  slept at ,charly1 seven leagues    
distant4 ,on ,wednesday after dinner we 
went on to sleep at ,dormans1 seven     
leagues farther on1 and on the  morrow  
we arrived in time for dinner at        
,esprenei4#g ,after our arrival  ,m4 de 
,montaigne and ,m4 d',estissac went to  
the church of ,notre ,dame  to hear     
,mass1 as was their wont4 ,m4 de        
,montaigne had taken note that  when ,m4
 de ,strozzi#h was slain some years ago 
at ,thionville they had  buried his body
 in this church1 wherefore he now       
inquired what manner  of sepulture had  
been given him1 and found that he had   
been buried  in a spot in front of the  
high altar which was marked neither by  
memorial nor tombstone1 nor armorial    
device1 nor epitaph4 ,they told  us1    
moreover1 that the queen#i had caused   
him to be buried thus simply  because   
this was his desire4 ,the day being the 
feast of our ,lady of  ,september#aj the
 office was said by the bishop of       
,rennes1 one of the  ,parisian family of

 ,hanequin and abb of this church4      
,after the ,mass was  finished1 ,m4 de  
,montaigne met in the church ,m4        
,maldonat1#aa a ,jesuit  well known to  
fame by reason of his philosophical and 
theological  learning4 ,they held divers
 learned discourses together during and 
after  dinner in ,m4 de ,montaigne's    
lodging1 whither ,maldonat had come to  
see  him4 ,amongst other matters        
,maldonat described the baths of ,spa1  
near  by to ,lige1 where he had recently
 sojourned in company with ,m4 de       
,nevers4 ,these are exceedingly cold1   
and it is there considered that  the    
colder the water the better4 ,the       
springs are so cold that some who  drink
 thereof fall into a trembling and      
shuddering1 but soon after the  water   
causes a fine feeling of warmth in the  
stomach4 ,in his case he  took a hundred
 ounces2 the glasses being supplied by  
the attendants of  whatever measure each
 particular visitor may require4 ,the   
waters may  be drunk fasting and also   

after a meal1 and their effect seemed to
 be  similar to those of ,gascony4 ,as  
to his own experience he gave certain   
observations concerning their strength1 
and as to the hurt which had  befallen  
him through drinking the same when      
sweating and fatigued4 ,he  marked how  
frogs and other small animals died      
immediately they were  thrown into the  
water1 and how a handkerchief1 which was
 placed over  a glass filled with the   
same1 quickly became yellow4 ,the       
shortest  course of treatment is fifteen
 days or three weeks4 ,it is a place    
where  excellent accommodation and      
lodgment may be found1 and is most      
salutary  in cases of gravel or         
obstruction4 ,nevertheless neither the  
speaker nor  ,m4 de ,nevers got any     
relief from the waters4    ,maldonat had
 with him the matre d'htel of ,m4 de    
,nevers4 ,they gave  to ,m4 de          
,montaigne the printed paper relating to
 the dispute between  ,m4 de            
,montpensier and ,m4 de ,nevers1#ab so  

that he might be rightly  informed      
concerning the matter1 and be able to   
explain the same to  any gentlefolk who 
might question him thereanent4 ,we set  
forth on the  ,friday morning and       
travelled seven leagues to ,chlons4#ac  
,here we  lodged at the 8,crown10 a fine
 house1 where we were served on silver  
plate1 and most of us were provided with
 silken bedding4 ,the ordinary  houses  
of this district are built of chalk     
stone1 cut into small blocks  about half
 a foot square2 some1 however1 are of   
turf1 treated in like  fashion4 ,on the 
morrow we set out after dinner and slept
 at ,vitri le  ,franois1 seven leagues  
farther on4    ,this is a small town on 
the banks of the ,marne1 built some     
thirty-five  or forty years ago in place
 of the former town1 which had been     
burnt4  ,it still keeps its original    
form1 pleasant and well proportioned1   
and  in the midst thereof is a large    
square1 one of the finest in ,france4   
,during our sojourn there1 three        

marvellous stories were told to us4     
,one was that ,madame the ,dowager de   
,guise de ,bourbon1#ad who was  living  
at the age of eighty-seven years1 could 
still go afoot for the  distance of a   
quarter of a league4 ,another was1 that 
a short time ago1  execution had been   
done at ,montirandet1#ae a place close  
by1 upon one  condemned for a certain   
offence4 ,several years before1 seven or
 eight  girls belonging to              
,chaumont-en-,bassigni had secretly     
determined to  put on male attire1 and  
to live the life of men4 ,amongst these 
one1  called ,mary1 came from ,vitry    
aforenamed4 ,she got her living by      
weaving1  passing as a well-favoured    
young man1 and on friendly terms with   
every  one4 ,she engaged herself to     
marry a woman of ,vitry1 who is still   
alive1  but on account of some strife   
which arose between them1 the match went
  no further4 ,afterwards1 having gone  
to ,montirandet1 and still following    
the weavers calling1 she fell in love   

again with a certain woman1 with  whom  
she married and lived1 as the story     
goes1 contentedly four or five  months4 
,but1 having been recognised by some one
 living at ,chaumont1 and  the matter   
having been brought to the notice of the
 courts1 she was  condemned to be       
hanged2 whereupon she declared she would
 liefer suffer  thus than live a woman's
 life4 ,she was hanged on the charge of 
using  unlawful appliances to remedy the
 defects of her sex4    ,the third story
 is of a man still living named         
,germain1#af of humble  condition1 and  
engaged in no employment4 ,up to the age
 of twenty-two  years he had been       
regarded by all the townsfolk as a girl1
 albeit the  chin was more hairy than   
that of other girls1 for which reason   
she  was called ,marie la barbue4 ,it   
came to pass one day when she put  forth
 all her strength in taking a leap1 that
 the distinctive signs  of manhood      
showed themselves1 whereupon the        
,cardinal of ,lenoncourt1  at that time 

bishop of ,chlons1 gave him the name of 
,germain4 ,this  personage is still     
unmarried1 and has a large thick beard4 
,we could not  see him because he was   
away at the village where he lived4 ,a  
popular  song1 sung by the girls of the 
place1 warns all girls against taking   
long strides lest they should become men
 like ,marie ,germain4 ,report  says    
that ,ambrose ,par has taken note of    
this tale in his book on  surgery4 ,it  
is certainly true1 and testimony thereof
 was given to ,m4 de  ,montaigne by the 
chief officials of the town4 ,we left   
this place after  breakfast on ,sunday  
morning and travelled to ,bar1#ag a     
distance of  nine leagues4    ,m4 de    
,montaigne had already visited this     
town4 ,he now came upon  nothing fresh  
worth noting1 save the extraordinary    
outlay which a  certain priest1 the dean
 of the place1 had made1 and was still  
making1  over public works4 ,his name   
was ,gilles de ,trves4#ah ,he has built 
a  chapel of marble1 with paintings and 

ornaments1 the most sumptuous of  any in
 ,france2 and besides this1 he has      
erected and almost furnished a  house   
which is the finest in the town1 of the 
fairest structure1 the  best planned and
 furnished1 elaborated with rich carved 
work and most  comfortable as a         
residence4 ,this he desires to make a   
college1 to endow  the same1 and set it 
to work at his own charges4 ,from ,bar1 
where we  took our dinner on the ,monday
 morning1 we journeyed four leagues to  
,mannese1#ai where we slept4    ,this   
was a small village1 where ,m4 de       
,montaigne was forced to halt by  reason
 of a colic1 for which same cause he put
 aside the plan he had  formed of seeing
 ,toul1 ,metz1 ,nancy1 ,joinville1 and  
,st4 ,disier1 towns  scattered along the
 route1 and repaired direct by diligence
 to the  baths of ,plombires4 ,from     
,mannese we departed on the ,tuesday    
morning1  and took our dinner at        
,vaucouleur1 a place a league farther   
on4 ,passing  along the banks of the    

,meuse we came to ,donremy-sur-,meuse1  
seven  leagues from ,vaucouleur1 where  
was born the famous ,maid of ,orleans   
named ,jeanne ,day or ,dallis4 ,her     
family was afterwards ennobled by the   
king1#bj who made a grant of arms which 
was shown to us2 azure with a  straight 
sword1 crowned and with a golden hilt1  
and two fleurs-de-lis  in gold beside   
the sword aforenamed4 ,a certain        
receiver of ,vaucouleur  gave a painted 
escutcheon of the same to ,m4 de        
,caselis4 ,the front of  the little     
house where she was born is all painted 
with her feats1 but  the colour is much 
decayed through age4 ,there is also a   
tree beside  a vineyard which they call 
8l'arbre de la ,pucelle10 but there is  
nothing remarkable about it4 ,that      
evening we slept1 after travelling  five
 leagues1 at ,neufchasteau4    ,here in 
the church of the ,cordeliers are many  
ancient tombs1 three or  four hundred   
years old1 erected to the memory of the 
nobles of the  province4 ,the           

inscriptions thereon all run in these   
terms3 8,here lies  a certain one who   
died when the tale of years was passing 
through the  twelve hundreds10 c4#ba ,m4
 de ,montaigne went to see the library1 
which contains many books1 but none of  
them rare2 and a well from which  water 
is drawn by vast buckets which are      
turned by stepping with the  feet on to 
a wooden plank attached to a wheel3 the 
axle of the wheel  aforesaid being a    
piece of wood to which the well rope is 
fastened4 ,he  had seen elsewhere others
 like it4 ,beside the well is a great   
stone  trough1 six or seven feet above  
the brim1 and the bucket rises and      
empties water into this trough without  
further help1 and lowers itself  when   
empty4 ,this trough is raised so high   
that by means of leaden pipes  the water
 of the well finds its way to the       
refectory and kitchen and  bath-house4  
,it likewise springs forth out of masses
 of stone1 built  to counterfeit natural
 fountains4 ,we breakfasted in the      

morning at  ,neufchasteau1 and after    
travelling six leagues we supped at     
,mirecourt4    ,this is a fair little   
town where ,m4 de ,montaigne heard      
tidings of ,m4  and ,madame de ,bourbon 
who dwelt near thereto4 ,on the morning 
of the  morrow after breakfast he went a
 quarter of a league or so aside from   
our route to see the nuns of ,poussay4  
,this was one of those religious        
houses1 of which there are many in these
 parts1 established for the  maintenance
 of women of good family4 ,each one has 
pension by way of  sustenance1 of one1  
two1 or three hundred crowns1 some less1
 some  more1 and a separate dwelling    
where each one can live apart4 ,there   
little girls are taken in to nurse2 no  
obligation of virginity is  laid upon   
any except those holding office1 to wit1
 the abbess1 the  prioress1 and certain 
others4 ,they have liberty to dress as  
they will1  like other ladies1 except   
that they wear on their heads a white   
veil2  and1 in church during the ,mass1 

they wear a large cloak which they      
leave behind them in their seat in the  
choir4 ,the inmates can receive  any    
acquaintance who may come to seek them1 
whether to urge them to  matrimony or   
for any other reason4 ,any one who is so
 minded may sell  her annuity to        
whomsoever she will1 provided that this 
person be of the  class and condition   
required4 ,for certain of the nobles of 
the district  have this duty laid upon  
them1 to wit1 that they must be         
satisfied by a  sworn declaration as to 
the lineage of the candidate whom any   
one may  bring forward4 ,it is not      
unbecoming for one nun to hold three or 
four  annuities4 ,during their sojourn  
they attend religious services the same 
as in other places1 and the greater part
 of them end their days there  without  
desiring change of condition4    ,on    
leaving this place we rode five leagues 
to supper at ,espine1#bb a  well-built  
little town where entry was denied to us
 for that we had  journeyed by          

,neufchasteau where the plague had raged
 a short time ago4  ,on the next day in 
the morning we reached ,plommieres#bc in
 time for  dinner1 a journey of four    
leagues4    ,from ,bar-le-,duc onwards  
the leagues are again of the ,gascon    
measure1  and as one approaches ,germany
 they become longer and longer1 so that1
  at last1 they wax double1 or even     
treble4 ,we entered ,plommieres on      
,friday the #afth of ,september #aehj1  
at two o'clock in the afternoon4  ,it is
 on the borders of ,lorraine and        
,germany1 situated in a chasm  between  
divers lofty scarped hills1 which close 
it in on all sides4 ,at  the bottom of  
this valley several springs1 cold and   
hot as well1 flow  forth4 ,the hot water
 has neither smell nor taste1 and is by 
nature as  hot as any one can endure to 
drink3 so much so that ,m4 de ,montaigne
  was obliged to pass it from glass to  
glass4 ,only two of the springs  are    
drunk4 ,one which flows from the        
eastward and forms the bath1 which  they

 call the ,queen's ,bath1 leaves in the 
mouth a certain sweet taste1  not unlike
 liquorice1 and no disagreeable         
aftertaste4 ,but after very  careful    
attention1 ,m4 de ,montaigne declared   
that a slight flavour of  iron might be 
detected therein4 ,the other spring     
which rises at the  base of the mountain
 opposite1 and of which ,m4 de          
,montaigne drank only  one day1 is      
slightly harsh1 and has the flavour of  
alum4 ,the habit  of the place is to    
take a bath two or three times a day4   
,some take  their meals in the bath1    
where they are cupped and scarified1 and
 do  not drink the waters except after a
 purge4 ,if they drink at all1 they     
take a glass or two in the bath4 ,they  
deemed the practice of ,m4 de           
,montaigne a mighty strange one1 to wit 
that1 without any preparatory  medicine1
 he should take nine glasses of water1  
amounting to a potful1  every morning at
 seven1 and dine at mid-day2 that on the
 days when he  bathed--every other      

one--he should fix upon four o'clock1   
and only stay  about an hour in the     
water4 ,and on these days he willingly  
went without  his supper4    ,we saw    
some men cured of ulcers and others of  
pimples on the body4  ,the wonted course
 is a month at least1 and rooms are let 
most readily  in ,may4 ,few people      
frequent the place after the month of   
,august1 by  reason of the cold1 but we 
found much company there still1 because 
the  heat and drought had been          
abnormally prolonged4 ,amongst others1  
,m4  de ,montaigne gained the friendship
 and acquaintance of the ,seigneur      
d',andelot of ,franche ,cont1#bd the son
 of the master of the horse of  the     
,emperor ,charles ,v4 ,he himself was   
chief field-marshal in the army  of ,don
 ,john of ,austria1 and he held the     
governorship of ,st4 ,quentin  after we 
lost the place4 ,one portion of his     
beard and one side of his  eyebrow had  
become white1 and he told ,m4 de        
,montaigne how this change  had come    

about in a moment of time1 on a certain 
day when he was filled  with distress   
over the death of one of his brothers1  
whom the ,duke of  ,alva had put to     
death as an accomplice of the ,counts   
,egmont and ,horn4  ,he was sitting     
resting his head upon his hand1 which   
touched the places  beforenamed1        
wherefore his attendants1 when they saw 
what had happened  to him1 deemed that  
some flour must have fallen upon him by 
accident4  ,he has been like this ever  
since4    ,this bath was formerly used  
only by ,germans1 but for several years 
past  the people of ,franche ,cont and  
,france have come in great numbers4     
,there are several baths1 and the       
principal one is built oval in shape1   
after the fashion of an ancient edifice4
 ,it is thirty-five paces long  and     
fifteen wide4 ,the hot water rises from 
several springs1 and cold  water is made
 to trickle down into the bath so that  
the heat may be  moderated according to 
the taste of those who use it4 ,the     

places in  the bath are set out side by 
side by bars suspended like those in our
  stables1 and planks are laid over the 
top so as to keep off the heat of  the  
sun and the rain4 ,the visitors in this 
place maintain a singular  propriety of 
carriage1 and it is reckoned indecent   
for men to bathe  naked or with less    
clothing than a little jacket1 or for   
women to wear  less than a chemise4 ,we 
lodged at the 8,angel10 which is the    
best house1  because it communicates    
with two of the baths4 ,the charge for  
lodging1  when several rooms were       
engaged1 was no more than fifteen sous a
 day4  ,the hosts supply all wood for   
this charge1 but the country is so rich 
therein that it costs nothing but the   
cutting1 and the hostesses do           
exceedingly well in the kitchens4 ,when 
the high season comes a lodging  like   
this one would cost a crown a day1 and  
be cheap at the price4  ,horse feed is  
seven sous a day1 and everything else   
the visitor needs  to buy is good and   

reasonable in price4 ,the chambers are  
not sumptuous1  but very convenient1    
and1 by reason of the numerous          
galleries1 there is  never need to pass 
through one to reach another2 but the   
wine and bread  are bad4 ,the people are
 worthy1 independent1 sensible1 and     
obliging4  ,all the laws of the land are
 religiously observed1 and every year   
they  write afresh on a tablet1 hung up 
in front of the principal bath1 the     
laws there inscribed in the ,german and 
,french tongues as follows3--           
8,claude de ,rynach1 knight1 lord of    
,st4 ,balesmont1 ,montureulz en         
,ferette1 ,lendacourt1 c41 councillor   
and chamberlain of our sovereign  lord  
monseigneur the ,duke c41 and his balli 
of the ,vosges4    8,let it be known    
that for securing the comfort and       
quietude of the many  ladies and other  
persons1 coming from divers countries to
 these baths  of ,plommieres1 we have   
7according to the intention of his      
,highness7  decreed and ordained as     

follows3    8,let it be known that      
corrective discipline for light offences
 shall  remain as heretofore in the     
hands of the ,germans1 who are enjoined 
to enforce observation of all           
ceremonies1 regulations1 and police1    
which have hitherto been used for the   
seemly maintenance of the baths         
aforesaid1 and for the punishment of    
offences committed by those of  their   
own nation1 without granting exception  
to any person by the  payment of ransom1
 and without using blasphemy or other   
irreverent  remarks against the         
,catholic ,church and the traditions of 
the same4    8,it is forbidden to all   
people1 of whatever quality1 condition1 
region1 or province they may be1 to use 
provocation in insulting  language      
tending to lead to quarrels3 to carry   
arms while at the baths  aforesaid3 to  
give the lie3 to put hand to arms under 
pain of severe  punishment as breakers  
of the peace1 rebels and disobedient to 
his  ,highness4    8,also it is         

forbidden to all prostitutes and        
immodest women to enter  the baths1 or  
to be found within five hundred paces of
 the same  under penalty of a whipping  
at the four corners of the town4 ,and   
the  householders who shall receive or  
conceal them shall incur the pain of    
imprisonment and arbitrary fine4        
8,the same penalty will fall on those   
who shall use any lascivious or         
immodest discourse to any ladies1 or    
damsels1 or other women and girls  who  
may be visiting the baths1 or touch them
 in a manner unbecoming1 or  enter or   
quit the baths in ribald fashion1       
contrary to public decency4    8,and    
because by the boon of the baths        
aforenamed ,god and nature  have        
afforded us cure and relief in many     
cases1 and because decent  cleanliness  
and purity are necessary in order to    
keep off the many  contagions and       
infections which might well engender in 
such a place1  it is expressly commanded
 to the governor of these baths to take 

the  utmost care1 and to inspect the    
persons of those who frequent the  same 
by day and by night2 to make them keep  
decency and silence during  the night1  
making no noise1 nor scandal1 nor       
horse-play4 ,and if any  person will not
 render obedience the governor shall    
forthwith carry the  affair before the  
magistrate1 so that an exemplary        
punishment may be  given4 ,beyond this  
it is prohibited to all persons coming  
from infected  places to repair to      
,plommieres under pain of death4 ,it is 
expressly  laid upon all mayors and     
officers of justice to have careful     
watch  over the place2 and upon all the 
townsfolk1 to furnish us with billets   
containing the names1 surnames1 and     
residence of all the people they  may   
have taken into their lodgings1 under   
pain of imprisonment4 ,all  the         
ordinances above declared have been this
 day published in front of  the great   
bath of ,plommieres aforesaid1 and      
copies of the same1 both  in ,french and

 in ,german1 affixed to the nearest and 
most prominent  portion of the bath1 and
 signed by us1 ,balli of the ,vosges3   
,given at  ,plommieres the fourth day of
 ,may in the year of our ,lord #ae--40  
,we tarried at this place from the #ahth
 to the #bgth of ,september4 ,m4  de    
,montaigne drank the water eleven days1 
nine glasses on eight days1  and seven  
glasses the other three1 and took five  
baths4 ,he found the  water easy to     
drink1 and the effects of the same all  
he could wish4  ,appetite1 digestion1   
and sleep were alike good1 and his      
general health  suffered no injury from 
these waters4 ,on the sixth day he was  
seized  with a colic1 more violent than 
his ordinary attacks1 and with pain on  
the right side1 where he had never      
hitherto been troubled1 save once  in   
the course of a very trifling attack at 
,arsac4 ,this seizure lasted  four      
hours1 and while it was on him he felt  
plainly the working and the  movement of
 the stone in the urethra and the lower 

part of the stomach4  ,the first two    
days he passed two small stones from the
 bladder1 and  gravel occasionally      
afterwards4 ,when he left these baths he
 deemed that  he had still in his       
bladder both the stone of this attack of
 colic1  and certain other small ones of
 which he had felt the downward passage4
  ,he judged the qualities of these     
waters1 with regard to his own case1  to
 be much the same as those of the high  
spring of ,banieres1#be where  there is 
a bath4 ,he found the temperature of the
 bath very mild1  indeed1 children of   
six months or a year old are wont to    
sprawl about  therein4 ,his perspiration
 was copious and gentle4 ,he directed me
 for  the gratification of his landlady 
to let her have the escutcheon of his   
arms on wood--this being the custom of  
the country--which escutcheon a  painter
 of the place did for a crown1 and the  
hostess caused it to be  hung up on the 
outside wall4    ,on the #bgth of       
,september1 after dinner1 we set forth  

and traversed a  mountainous country1   
the soil of which resounded under our   
horses' feet  as if we were going over a
 vault1 or even as if men were beating  
drums  all around us4 ,at the end of two
 leagues we stopped for the night at    
,remiremont1 a fair little town1 where  
we found excellent lodging at the       
8,unicorn03 indeed1 in all the towns of 
,lorraine1 and this was the last  of    
them1 the traveller finds as convenient 
lodging and as excellent  fare as in any
 part of ,france4 ,at ,remiremont is    
that famous abbey of  religious women of
 the same rank as those of ,poussai     
before described4  ,they claim1 as      
against ,m4 de ,lorrene1#bf the         
sovereignty and ownership  of this town4
 ,m4 d',estissac and ,m4 de ,montaigne  
paid them a visit  very soon after their
 arrival1 and inspected several of the  
sets of  lodgings1 all of which were    
very seemly and well furnished4 ,the    
abbess1  of the family of ,d',inteville1
 had lately died1 and they were about to

  elect another to the office1 the      
sister of the ,count de ,salmes being a 
candidate4 ,they also went to see the   
doyenne1 a member of the house  of      
,lutre1 a lady who had done ,m4 de      
,montaigne the honour of sending to     
greet him while he was at ,plommieres1  
despatching also a supply of  artichokes
 and partridges1 and a barrel of wine   
for his use4 ,messieurs  were informed  
that certain neighbouring villages are  
bound to deliver  on the day of         
,pentecost every year two bowls of snow2
 and1 failing  these1 a cart equipped   
with four white oxen4 ,it is said that  
they never  fail to find snow for their 
rent1 but it is certain that1 when we   
were  there1 the heat was as great as is
 felt at any season in ,gascony4 ,the   
nun's dress is a white veil1 worn on the
 head1 and a little lappel of  crape    
over it4 ,their robes are black1 made of
 any stuff and pattern  they may choose1
 while on the premises1 but otherwise   
they may wear  colours1 petticoats to   

their liking1 and shoes and pattens2 and
 dress  their hair under the veil in    
ordinary fashion4 ,each nun must be     
descended from at least four noble      
houses on the father's side and the     
mother's as well4 ,messieurs took leave 
of the ladies at eventide4 ,early  on   
the morrow we set forth1 and after we   
had mounted1 the doyenne  sent a        
gentleman to ,m4 de ,montaigne begging  
him to go to her4 ,he went1  and this   
visit cost us an hour's delay4 ,this    
society of ladies gave  him procuration 
to deal with their affairs at ,rome4    
,after we left we  followed for some    
distance a lovely and pleasant valley1  
skirting the  banks of the ,moselle1 and
 reached ,bossan1#bg four leagues       
distant1 in  time for dinner4    ,this  
is a little ugly town1 the last place   
where ,french is spoken4 ,here  ,m4     
d',estissac and ,m4 de ,montaigne1 clad 
in garments of linen which  were lent to
 them1 went to see the silver mines     
which ,m4 de ,lorenne  possesses in this

 place1 situated some two thousand paces
 up a mountain  gorge4 ,after dinner we 
took a road through the mountains1 where
 they  pointed out to us1 amongst other 
things1 the nests of the goshawks       
perched on inaccessible rocks the birds 
aforesaid being worth about  three      
testoons1 and the source of the         
,moselle4 ,we arrived1 after  travelling
 four leagues1 in time for supper at    
,tane4#bh    ,this is a handsome town1  
the first over the ,german frontier1 and
  subject to the ,emperor4 ,the         
following morning we found ourselves in 
a  fine wide plain1 bounded on the left 
hand by slopes full of vineyards1  fair 
and excellently cultivated1 and of such 
extent that the ,gascons  who were with 
us declared they had never seen the     
like4 ,this was the  time of vintage4   
,,ii    ,,switzerland      ,we travelled
 two leagues farther to dinner at       
,melhouse1#bi a fair  little ,swiss town
 of the canton of ,basle4 ,there ,m4 de 
,montaigne went to  visit the church1   

the people of this town being no longer 
,catholics4  ,this he found1 as         
elsewhere in the country1 in good       
condition1 for  scarcely any change has 
been made1 except with regard to the    
altars  and the images1 the churches    
themselves having suffered no           
defacement4  ,he was vastly pleased to  
behold the liberty and order prevalent  
among  these people2 how our host of the
 8,grapes0 returned from the council    
board of the town1 held in a magnificent
 palace1 over which he had  presided1 to
 do service to his guests at table2 and 
to hear how  this man1 without any      
following or office1 who poured out the 
wine  at dinner1 had formerly led four  
troops of footmen into ,france under    
,casimir to fight against the king1 and 
was now the king's pensioner1  having   
received three hundred crowns per annum 
for the last twenty  years4#cj ,while   
,m4 de ,montaigne was sitting at table1 
this gentleman  talked to him1 without  
the least pretentiousness or            

affectation1  of his condition and way  
of life2 and how he and others found    
that  their religion was no bar to their
 serving the king1 even against  the    
,huguenots4 ,this we heard likewise from
 others whom we met in our  travels1 and
 also at the siege of ,la ,fre#ca more  
than fifty of these  people served with 
us1 and that they made no scruple of    
being married  by a priest to ,catholic 
women1 who were never required to change
 their  religion4 ,after dinner we set  
out travelling through a fine country1  
abundant1 very fertile1 and ornamented  
with divers pretty villages and         
hostelries1 and arrived at ,basle1 three
 leagues' journey1 in time for  bed4    
,illustration3 ,,basel    ,from         
,civitates ,orbis ,terrarum        ,to  
face p4 #fb1 vol4 i4      ,basle is a   
fine town1 about the size of ,blois1 and
 divided into two  parts1 for the ,rhine
 flows through the midst under a large  
wooden  bridge of great width4 ,the city
 authorities did the honour to ,m4      

d',estissac and ,m4 de ,montaigne of    
sending a present of wine by one of     
their officers1 who made a long speech  
to them as they sat at table4 ,m4  de   
,montaigne made a similar reply in the  
presence of certain ,germans  and       
,frenchmen1 who were seated with them   
round the stove1 the host  serving as   
interpreter4 ,the wines were very good4 
,we went in separate  parties to the    
house of a certain physician1 named     
,felix ,plater1 which  was painted and  
decorated in delicate ,french fashion   
with the utmost  care4 ,this house the  
aforesaid physician had built for       
himself in  very large1 ample1 and      
sumptuous style4 ,amongst other work he 
was  preparing a book of simples1 which 
was then well advanced1 and it was  his 
practice1 instead of painting like other
 botanists the plants  according to     
their natural colours1 to glue the same 
upon paper with  so great care and      
dexterity that the smallest leaves and  
fibres should  be visible1 exactly as in

 nature4 ,he can turn the leaves of this
 book  without fear of any plant falling
 out1 and he showed us certain simples  
which had been fastened therein more    
than twenty years ago4 ,at this  house1 
and in the public school as well1 we saw
 entire skeletons of men4    ,they have 
a custom in the town1 but not in the    
suburbs1 that the clocks  shall strike  
one hour in advance of the true time1 to
 wit1 if it should  strike ten1 the time
 would be really nine4 ,they say the    
reason of this  custom is that in past  
years an attempt against the city       
miscarried  on account of a similar     
fault of the town clock4 ,it is called  
,basilee1#cb not from the ,greek word1  
but because ,base in ,german  means     
passage4 ,we saw many learned men3      
,grynus1#cc and the author  of the      
,theatrum1 and ,platerus the physician  
already mentioned1 and  ,francis        
,hottoman4#cd ,the two last-named supped
 with ,m4 de ,montaigne  the day after  
his arrival4 ,from answers given to     

certain questions he  put1 ,m4 de       
,montaigne gathered that there was in   
,basle considerable  religious discord1 
some calling themselves ,zwinglians1    
some ,calvinists1  and others           
,martinists1 while many1 as he was      
informed1 had in their  hearts a hidden 
liking for the ,roman religion4 ,the    
ordinary form  of administering the     
sacrament is to place it in the mouth1  
but at  the same time any one1 who so   
wishes1 may reach out his hand for  it1 
the ministers being chary of stirring up
 afresh the antagonisms  of religion4   
,the interiors of the churches are like 
those ,i have  heretofore described4    
,the exteriors are still garnished with 
images  and with ancient tombs          
unmutilated1 and inscribed with prayers 
for the  souls of the departed4 ,the    
organs1 the bells1 the crosses on the   
bell  towers1 and all the different     
images in the painted windows are whole 
as ever they were1 as well as the       
benches and the seats of the choirs4    

,the ,calvinists place the baptismal    
font where the high altar stood         
aforetime1 and build at the head of the 
nave another altar to serve for  their  
,lord's ,supper2 the one at ,basle being
 beautifully arranged4 ,the  church of  
the ,carthusians is a very fine         
building1 preserved and kept  up most   
carefully2 the same furniture and       
ornaments are still there1  a           
circumstance which the reformers bring  
forward as a testimony of  their good   
faith1 seeing that they gave a promise  
to maintain these at  the time of their 
agreement4 ,the bishop of the place1 who
 is strongly  inimical to them1 lives   
outside the city1 and holds the greater 
part  of the country people to the      
ancient religion4 ,he enjoys an income  
of  fifty thousand livres from the city1
 and thus the succession to the         
bishopric is kept up4    ,certain of the
 people lamented to ,m4 de ,montaigne   
over the dissolute  carriage of the     
women1 and the prevalent drunkenness of 

the city4 ,we  witnessed an operation   
for rupture done by a surgeon on the    
child of a  poor man1 who was very      
roughly handled by the operator1 and    
likewise  saw the very fine public      
library overlooking the river in a      
pleasant  situation4 ,we spent one more 
day at ,basle1 and on the next after    
dinner  we took the road along the      
,rhine for some two leagues4 ,then we   
left  it on our left hand and traversed 
a fertile country4 ,in these parts      
springs abound1 and no village or       
crossroads lack fair running water2  in 
,basle indeed they number some three    
hundred4 ,balconies are so  common in   
all houses1 even in ,lorraine1 that in  
building they always  leave between the 
windows of the chambers doorways looking
 over the  streets1 with the view of    
letting a balcony be built thereto at   
some  future time4 ,all through the     
country beyond ,espine even the smallest
  cottages have glass windows1 and the  
good houses are well fitted with  the   

same1 excellently arranged both within  
and without1 the glass  being made in   
various fashions4 ,there is abundance of
 iron1 and the  workers thereof are very
 skilful1 greatly in advance of         
ourselves1  and furthermore the smallest
 church will always have a magnificent  
clock and dial4 ,their work in tiles is 
excellent1 and on this account  the     
roofs of the houses are decorated with a
 medley of tiles1 glazed  in various    
colours1 and the floors of their        
chambers are the same4  ,moreover it    
would be impossible to find more        
delicate work than that  of their       
stoves1 which are of pottery4 ,they make
 much use of pine wood  and are skilled 
carpenters1 their casks being all carven
 and many of  them varnished and        
painted4 ,they are very lavish in       
stoves1 that is to  say1 in the public  
dining-rooms4 ,in all rooms of this     
sort1 which are  always well furnished1 
there will be five or six tables fitted 
with  benches at which all the guests   

will dine together1 each party at its   
own particular table4 ,the smallest     
houses of entertainment will have  three
 or four well-appointed rooms of this   
kind4 ,they are pierced for  many       
windows which are filled with rich      
glass1 but on the whole it  seems that  
the hosts concern themselves more with  
the dinner than with  aught else1 for   
the bed-chambers are often mean enough1 
the beds never  curtained and always    
placed three or four together1 the rooms
 being  without chimneys1 and only      
heated from the general stove4 ,beyond  
this  there is no sign of a fire1 and   
they take it very ill if a stranger     
should go into their kitchens4 ,there is
 much want of cleanliness in  their     
bed-chambers1 and he who gets a white   
sheet may deem himself  fortunate3      
moreover1 it is their fashion never to  
cover the pillow with  sheeting2 there  
is rarely any other covering than a     
feather quilt1  which is very dirty4    
,they are good cooks1 of fish           

especially4 ,in fine weather or in storm
  their houses have no other protection 
from the weather than bare glass        
windows without wooden shutters4 ,the   
houses are well windowed and  very      
light1 both below and in the chambers1  
the windows being rarely  closed even at
 night4 ,their service at table differs 
greatly from ours4  ,they never mix     
water with their wine1 and they are     
justified in this  practice1 for their  
wines are so thin that our gentlemen    
found them  less potent than those of   
,gascony when diluted4 ,they are1       
however1 very  light and delicate4      
,the body-servants dine either at their 
master's table or at one close  by1 one 
valet being enough to attend to the high
 table1 seeing that  each gentleman has 
always his own goblet or silver cup     
beside him1  wherefore the servant only 
needs to fill this as soon as it may be 
empty1 without moving it4 ,for this     
purpose they use a vessel of pewter  or 
wood with a long spout4 ,as to the meat1

 they serve only two or three  dishes   
thereof1 cut in slices4 ,unlike our     
fashion1 they serve in the  same dish   
divers sorts of well-dressed meats2     
sometimes indeed they  bring to table   
one course with the other1 using certain
 appliances of  iron made with long     
legs1 in which they carry one dish above
 and one  below4 ,some of their tables  
are round and some square1 but all are  
very wide1 so that it is very difficult 
to place the dishes thereon4  ,the      
valet1 however1 can easily manage dishes
 arranged as above named1  letting them 
follow1 two by two1 up to six or seven  
changes4    ,a fresh dish is never      
served till the foregoing one shall have
 been  finished2 and as to the plates1  
as soon as the service of viands has    
come to an end and the dessert is ready1
 the valet puts on the table a  large   
wicker basket on a vessel of painted    
wood into which the chief  person       
present first puts his plate2 the others
 follow suit1 the order  of rank being  

closely observed4 ,the valet removes    
this vessel without  difficulty1 and    
then serves the fruit in two dishes all 
mixed together  like the other courses4 
,at this stage they often serve         
radishes1 and  with your roast meat you 
will most likely have been offered      
cooked  pears4 ,amongst other edibles   
they give a high place to the crayfish1 
and honour it by serving it in a covered
 dish1 a tribute they pay to  hardly any
 other viand4 ,the whole country abounds
 in these fish1 and  they are served    
every day1 and rated as a delicacy4     
,they take no care to wash on sitting   
down or on rising from table4  ,most    
people go to a little laver1 set in a   
corner of the room as in a  monastery4  
,in most places they use wooden plates  
and pots1 clean and  white as they can  
be made2 but in some they set on the    
wooden plates  others of pewter1 until  
they serve the fruit1 for which wood is 
always  used4 ,they serve this wooden   
ware only from custom1 for in the same  

houses where it is seen they give their 
guests silver goblets in any  quantity4 
,they clean and polish their wooden     
furniture with great care  and even the 
boards of their chambers4 ,the beds are 
so high that steps  are generally needed
 to mount the same1 and nearly          
everywhere small  beds are placed beside
 the large ones4    ,seeing that they   
are such excellent smiths1 nearly all   
their spits  are made to revolve by     
springs1 or by weights like clocks1 or  
even by  wooden fans fixed in the       
chimney and made to turn by the draught 
of the  smoke and the vapour of the     
fire4 ,these appliances cause the roast 
to  revolve gently and slowly4 ,they    
over-roast their meat somewhat4 ,these  
smoke-jacks#ce are only worked in large 
hostelries which burn great  fires1 as  
at ,baden1 and they turn at a uniform   
and steady pace4 ,after  leaving        
,lorrenne we found the chimneys built in
 a fashion different  from ours4 ,they  
build up the hearths in the middle or in

 the corner  of the kitchen1 using      
almost the entire width of the place for
 the  chimney flue4 ,this is a vast     
opening seven or eight paces square1    
which  becomes narrower as it rises to  
the top of the house4 ,this structure   
gives them the chance to place in       
position their large wheel1 which1 in   
chimneys built like ours1 would occupy  
so much room in the flue that  the smoke
 would not be able to find a passage4   
,the lightest repasts  last three or    
four hours1 because of the method of    
service aforesaid1  and in sooth these  
people eat vastly more leisurely than we
 do1 and in  more healthful manner4     
,there is everywhere abundance of       
provisions1 of  flesh and fish1 and     
every table is sumptuously spread--at   
least this  was our experience4 ,on     
,fridays no flesh is served1 and report 
says that  in these parts the people    
willingly abstain therefrom entirely1   
the  practice of fasting being similar  
to that in ,france round about ,paris4  

,as a rule they give their horses more  
fodder than they can eat4 ,we  travelled
 four leagues and arrived in time for   
bed at ,hornes4    ,this is a small     
village in the duchy of ,austria4 ,on   
the morrow1 as it  was ,sunday1 we went 
to ,mass1 and observed that in church   
the women sat  on the left-hand side of 
the church and the men on the right1    
without  mixing4 ,the women have several
 rows of seats1 set reversed1 one behind
  the other1 of a convenient height for 
sitting1 and upon these they  kneel1 and
 not upon the ground1 wherefore they    
seem to be upright4  ,the men have also 
pieces of wood in front of them to lean 
upon1 and  they only kneel upon the     
chairs which are in front of them4      
,instead of  joining the hands as we do 
at the elevation1 they stretch them out 
apart1 and open and keep them thus      
raised until the priest exhibits  the   
pyx4 ,they assigned to ,m4 d',estissac  
and ,m4 de ,montaigne the third  bench  
on the men's side1 while those of less  

worship in our company  were afterwards 
given seats amongst the lesser folk2 and
 the same on  the women's side4 ,it     
seemed to us that the front rows were   
not held in  the highest honour4 ,the   
interpreter and guide whom we engaged at
 ,basle1  a sworn messenger of the city1
 went to the ,mass with us1 and showed  
by his carriage that he had come there  
with great longing and devout  feeling4 
,after dinner we crossed the river      
,arat#cf to ,broug1 a fair  little town 
belonging to the seigniory of ,berne1   
and beyond that we  went to see an abbey
 which ,queen ,catherine of ,hungary    
gave to the lords  of ,berne in #aebd1cg
 where are buried ,leopold1 ,archduke of
 ,austria1  and a great number of       
gentlemen who were overthrown by the    
,swiss in  #achf4 ,their arms and names 
are there inscribed1 and their remains  
kept with great care4 ,m4 de ,montaigne 
held converse with the ,bernese         
gentleman in charge of the place1 who   
ordered that everything should be  shown

 to him4 ,in this abbey slices of bread 
and soup are always ready  at hand for  
any wayfarer who may demand the same1   
and no refusal has  ever been made by   
the heads of the abbey4 ,from this place
 we crossed by  a boat1 which is        
attached by an iron pulley to a rope    
stretched high  above the ,reix1#ch a   
river flowing out of the ,lake of       
,lucerne1 and  arrived1 after a journey 
of four leagues1 at ,baden1 a little    
town with  a suburb adjoining1 where    
there are baths4    ,illustration3      
,,baden ,,en ,,argow        ,to face p4 
#gf1 vol4 i4      ,baden is a ,catholic 
town1 under protection of the eight#ci  
,swiss  cantons1 in which divers great  
gatherings of princes have taken place4 
,we did not lodge in the town but in the
 suburb1 which lies at the  foot of the 
mountain on the bank of the ,limmat1 a  
stream1 or rather  torrent1 which flows 
out of the ,lake of ,zrich4 ,there are  
two or three  uncovered public baths1   
which are frequented only by poor folk4 

,of the  other kind there are great     
number within the houses1 divided into  
small  private rooms1 both closed and   
open1 which are let with the lodgings1  
and are as dainty and well fitted as    
possible1 hot water being drawn  from   
the water-courses for each bath4 ,the   
lodgment is magnificent4 ,in  the house 
where we stayed three hundred mouths had
 to be fed every day2  and1 while we    
were there1 beds were made for a        
hundred-and-seventy  sojourners4 ,it    
possessed seventeen stoves and eleven   
kitchens1 and  in the house adjoining   
were fifty furnished chambers1 the walls
 of  all the rooms being hung with the  
coats-of-arms of the gentry who  had    
lodged therein4 ,the town1 perched high 
on the crest of a hill1  is small and   
very fair1 like almost all the towns of 
this country4  ,moreover1 they build    
their streets wider and more open than  
ours1 and  their market-places more     
ample1 and there is a wealth of         
richly-glazed  windows everywhere4 ,they

 paint almost all the houses outside    
with  various devices1 and the towns    
consequently are very pleasant to look  
upon4 ,again1 there is scarcely a town  
without running water in the  streets1  
and at every cross-street will be found 
a handsome fountain1  built either in   
stone or in wood1 and on this account   
their towns are  much fairer to view    
than those of ,france4 ,the water of the
 baths gives  out an odour of sulphur   
like those of ,aigues-,caudes#dj and    
certain  others4 ,the heat is tempered  
as at ,barbotan#da or ,aigues-,caudes1  
and  for this reason the baths are very 
soft and pleasant4    ,ladies who are   
fain to take their bath with daintiness 
and decency can  repair to ,baden with  
confidence1 for they will be alone in   
the bath1  which is like an elegant     
cabinet1 light1 with glazed windows1    
painted  panelling1 and clean flooring4 
,everywhere are chairs and small tables 
for reading or gaming while in the bath4
 ,the bather may empty and fill  the    

bath as often as he likes1 and will find
 a chamber adjoining4  ,there are fine  
walks along the river1 besides          
artificial ones under  galleries4 ,these
 baths are placed in a valley commanded 
by the slopes  of high mountains1 which 
nevertheless are fertile and well       
cultivated4  ,the water when drunk      
tastes rather flat and soft1 like water 
heated  up1 and there is a smell of     
sulphur about it1 and a certain         
prickling  flavour of salt4 ,amongst the
 people of the place it is chiefly used 
in the bath1 in which they subject      
themselves also to cupping and          
bleeding1 so that ,i have at times seen 
the water in the two public  baths the  
colour of blood4 ,those who drink it by 
habit take a glass or  two at the most4 
,the guests as a rule stay six or seven 
weeks1 and  some or other frequent the  
baths all through the summer4 ,no       
country  sends so many visitors as      
,germany1 from whence come great crowds4
    ,the practice of bathing here is of 

high antiquity and is remarked by       
,tacitus1#db who searched to the utmost 
to find the chief spring1 but  could get
 no knowledge thereof2 but apparently   
the springs rise from  a great depth    
below the level even of the river4 ,the 
water is less  clear than that of the   
other springs we have seen1 and when    
drawn  from the spring it shows certain 
minute fibres4 ,moreover1 it contains   
no sparkling bubbles like other         
sulphurous waters when the glass is     
filled2 like those of ,spa1 for         
instance1 of which ,m4 de ,maldonat told
  us4 ,m4 de ,montaigne took some of it 
on the ,monday morning after we         
arrived1 seven small glasses1 and on the
 next day five large glasses1  amounting
 to ten of the aforesaid4 ,on this same 
day1 ,tuesday1 at nine  in the morning1 
while the others were at table1 he took 
a bath and fell  into a heavy sweat in  
bed afterwards1 having stayed in the    
bath only  half-an-hour4 ,the people of 
the country1 who stay all day in the    

bath  playing and drinking1 stand only  
up to the middle in water1 but ,m4 de   
,montaigne lay full length and was      
covered to the neck4#dc    ,on this day 
departed from the baths a certain ,swiss
 gentleman1 an  excellent servant of our
 ,state1 who all the day before had held
  converse with ,m4 de ,montaigne       
concerning ,swiss affairs1 and had shown
  him a letter which the ,french        
ambassador1 son of our ,president du    
,harlay1 had written from ,souleure1    
where he was staying1 committing  to him
 the king's interests while he himself  
should be absent4 ,the  ambassador had  
been summoned by the queen to meet her  
at ,lyons1 in  order to devise some plan
 of checkmating the schemes of ,spain   
and  the late ,duke of ,savoy4 ,the duke
 shortly before his death had allied    
himself with certain of the cantons1 an 
alliance which our king had  resisted1  
alleging that the cantons1 being already
 pledged to him1  could incur no fresh  
obligations without his leave4 ,some of 

the  cantons1 when this was pointed out 
to them by the ,swiss gentleman         
aforesaid1 drew back from the alliance4 
,indeed1 all through this  country they 
showed great respect and friendship to  
our king's name  and the utmost civility
 to ourselves4 ,the ,swiss gentleman had
 a train  of four horses4 ,his son1 who 
is also in the king's service1 on one1 a
  valet on another1 his daughter1 a     
tall1 handsome girl1 on another1 with  a
 horsecloth and footboard in ,french    
fashion1 a trunk on the crupper1  and a 
bonnet box on the saddle-bow1 without   
any waiting-maid1 though  they were two 
long days' journey from their abode1    
which is in a town  where the gentleman 
aforesaid was the governor4 ,he himself 
rode the  remaining horse4    ,the      
common dress of the women does not seem 
to me so becoming as that  usually worn 
in ,france1 nor the headgear either4    
,this is a bonnet1   la cognard1 turned 
up before and behind1 and having in     
front a  slight peak enriched with      

stripes of silk and fur trimmings4 ,the 
hair  hangs down behind in a braid4 ,if 
you should jestingly take off this      
bonnet--for it is lightly attached as   
with us--they will show no  offence1 and
 you will see the head quite uncovered4 
,the younger women  wear simple garlands
 in lieu of a bonnet4 ,there is little  
difference of  attire to make the       
distinction of classes1 and the habit is
 to salute  by kissing the hand1 and by 
offering to touch the lady's4           
,otherwise1  if in passing you give a   
greeting and bow they will generally    
make no  sign of acknowledgment1        
according to ancient usage1 but some    
will bow  the head slightly by way of   
returning the salutation4 ,they are for 
the  most part well-favoured women1     
tall1 and fair4    ,as a nation they    
have an excellent disposition1 even     
towards those  who do not#dd agree with 
them4 ,m4 de ,montaigne1 in order to    
make  full trial of diverse manners and 
customs of the countries he visited1    

always conformed to local usage1 however
 greatly such a usage may have  irked   
him4 ,nevertheless1 in ,switzerland he  
said that he suffered no  inconvenience 
except that he had at table1 by way of  
napkin1 only a  piece of linen half a   
foot long3 moreover1 the ,swiss         
themselves only  unfold this napkin at  
dinner when many sauces and divers sorts
 of soup  are served2 but1 on the other 
hand1 they always provide as many wooden
  spoons with silver handles as there   
are guests4 ,and a ,swiss will always   
be provided with a knife with which he  
will eat everything1 and never  put his 
fingers in his plate4    ,in almost all 
the towns the proper arms of the place  
are displayed1  and above them those of 
the ,emperor and of the house of        
,austria1 but  the greater part of the  
towns have been detached from the       
archduke  aforesaid by ill policy4 ,they
 say that all members of the ,austrian  
house1 except the ,catholic king1 have  
been brought to great poverty1  even the

 ,emperor1#de who is held very lightly  
in ,germany4 ,on the  ,wednesday the    
host bought a large quantity of fish1   
and being asked by  ,m4 de ,montaigne   
the reason why1 he replied that the     
greater part of the  people of ,baden   
ate fish on ,wednesdays on religious    
grounds1 a remark  which confirmed what 
he had before heard on this subject3 to 
wit1 that  those who have remained      
,catholics are confirmed in their faith 
by the  fact that they have to reckon on
 an opposition4 ,the host added1 when   
division and religious strife shows     
itself in a particular town1 and        
infects the governing body1 the bond of 
good feeling is loosened1 and  the      
effect of this admixture is felt in     
individual families1 as has  been       
manifested in ,augsburg and in the      
imperial cities4 ,but when a town  has  
one central government--and every ,swiss
 town has its separate laws  and        
administration1 is dependent on its     
neighbours for the preservation  of     

order1 and keeps up alliance and union  
only for purposes affecting  the whole  
community--those towns which possess    
special civic rights1  with a separate  
civil government complete in all parts1 
find therein  a support for their       
strengthening and upholding4 ,towns in  
this case  undoubtedly become stronger1 
closing their ranks and recruiting their
  forces through the contagious shock of
 conflicts near at hand4    ,their      
custom of warming the houses by stoves  
pleased us greatly1 and  none of our    
company complained thereof2 for1 after  
you have taken in  a breath or two of   
the air which indeed may seem strange on
 entering  a room1 you are sensible only
 of a soft and regular heat4 ,m4 de     
,montaigne1 who slept in a room with a  
stove1 was loud in its praises1  saying 
that all night he felt a pleasant       
moderate warmth4 ,in warming  yourself  
you burn neither your face nor your     
boots1 and are free from  the smoke of a
 ,french fireplace4 ,at home we put on  

our warm furred  dressing-gowns when we 
enter our apartments1 but here people   
appear in  doublet and bareheaded in the
 warm rooms1 and put on thick garments  
before going into the air4 ,on the      
,thursday ,m4 de ,montaigne drank the   
same quantity of water1 which acted well
 and rid him of a small amount  of      
gravel4 ,still1 he found these waters   
more powerful than any others  which he 
had ever tried--whether from the        
strength of the water itself  or from   
the present habit of his body--and      
accordingly he drank them  more         
sparingly4    ,on this same ,thursday he
 held discourse with a minister from    
,zrich1  a native of that city1 and     
heard from him that the religion there  
was formerly ,zwinglian1 but that now it
 had come nearer to ,calvinism1  a      
somewhat milder creed4 ,being questioned
 as to predestination1 he  replied that 
they kept the mean between ,geneva and  
,augsburg1 but that  their people were  
free to debate this question4 ,for his  

own part he  inclined rather to the side
 of ,zwingli1 praising him highly as one
 who  came the nearest to primitive     
,christianity4    ,on ,friday1 ,october 
#gth1 at seven in the morning1 after    
breakfast1 we  quitted ,baden2 and1     
before we set out1 ,m4 de ,montaigne    
drank the same  quantity of the water as
 he had taken on five previous          
occasions4 ,with  regard to the         
operation of the same1 concerning which 
he was more  sanguine than he was in the
 case of any other bath he had visited  
7both  as to the bathing and the        
drinking71 he was free in his praise of 
these  baths beyond all the rest1 not   
only because the place itself1 and the  
baths and the private apartments1 are   
comfortably and conveniently  managed1  
but also because1 in all apartments1    
visitors are always  able to go to their
 own rooms without passing through the  
rooms of  other people4 ,moreover1      
persons of small means may find quarters
 to  suit them quite as easily as those 

who are rich4 ,bathrooms1 kitchens1     
cabinets1 and chapels may be hired for a
 large retinue1 and at the  house       
adjacent to our own1 the ,cour de la    
,ville--ours being the ,cour  de        
derrire--there are public apartments    
belonging to the cantonal  authorities1 
and occupied by lodgers4 ,this same     
house has several  chimneys built in    
,french fashion1 and there are stoves in
 all the  chief apartments4 ,the demand 
for payment from strangers is a little  
arbitrary1 as in all countries and      
notably in our own4 ,four furnished     
chambers1 with nine beds in all1 two of 
which had stoves and one bath  besides1 
cost us a crown a day for the masters1  
and for the servants  four batzen3#df   
that is to say1 a little more than nine 
sous apiece2  the horses cost six       
batzen1 about four sous1 but in addition
 to this  they added certain nonsensical
 charges which were not customary4 ,a   
guard is kept in the town and even in   
the bath quarter1 which is  nothing but 

a village1 and every night two sentinels
 make the round of  the houses1 not so  
much to keep off the foe1 as for fear of
 fire or  other disturbance4 ,when the  
hour strikes one of them is bound to cry
  out at the top of his voice to the    
other1 and ask what is the hour1        
whereupon the other in like manner tells
 him the hour1 and adds that he  is     
keeping good watch4 ,the women do their 
washing in the open in the  public      
place1 bringing out their little wooden 
tubs to the river side  where they heat 
water and do their work excellently2    
they also clean  the earthenware far    
better than do our ,french women in the 
inns4 ,here  each chambermaid and each  
valet has a special charge4    ,one     
disadvantage of travel is that with ever
 so great diligence it  is impossible   
for a stranger to ascertain from the    
people of the  country whom he may      
meet--,i speak of the cultivated folk as
 well as  the vulgar--what objects of   
interest may be worthy of a visit1 and  

to  make them understand what he may    
ask4 ,i write thus because1 after we    
had spent five days at ,baden1 and had  
inquired curiously concerning           
everything there which might be worth   
seeing1 we were told naught about  a    
certain object of interest which we saw 
by chance afterwards as we  were leaving
 the town4 ,this was a stone1 about the 
height of a man1  apparently a portion  
of some column1 without adornment or    
workmanship1  placed at the angle of a  
house1 and easily visible to any        
passer-by on  the high-road4 ,there was 
a ,latin inscription1 which ,i was not  
able to  decipher fully1 but it seemed  
to be a simple dedication to the        
,emperors  ,nerva and ,trajan4 ,we      
crossed the ,rhine at ,kaiserstuhl1 a   
,catholic town  and allied to the       
,swiss1 and onward thence we traversed a
 fine flat  country until we came to    
some rapids where the river is broken up
 by  rocks1 which they call cataracts1  
like those of the ,nile4 ,and below     

,schaffhausen there is in the ,rhine a  
gulf full of vast rocks where it        
becomes rapid1 and farther down1 amongst
 the same rocks1 it comes to a  fall of 
two pikes' length1 where it makes a     
mighty leap1 foaming and  roaring       
marvellously4 ,this fall stops the      
boats1 and interrupts the  navigation of
 the river4 ,we travelled four leagues  
at a stretch1 and  came in time for     
supper to ,schaffhausen4    ,this town1 
the capital of a ,swiss canton1 has the 
same form of religion  as ,zrich4 ,on   
our departure from ,baden we left on our
 right hand  ,zrich1 whither ,m4 de     
,montaigne had determined to journey1   
the town  being not more than two       
leagues distant4 ,but word was brought  
to him  of an outbreak of plague there4 
,at ,schaffhausen he saw naught which   
interested him4 ,the citizens were      
erecting a citadel which promised to  be
 a good work2 and they have1 moreover1 a
 butt for crossbow practice1  and a     
place for this exercise1 as fine and    

large and shady and well  provided with 
seats and galleries and rooms as man    
could desire4  ,there is also a similar 
place for shooting with the arquebus1   
and  water-mills for the sawing of wood1
 like those we have seen elsewhere1  and
 others for the scutching of flax and   
the shelling of millet4  ,likewise a    
tree of the sort we saw at ,baden and   
elsewhere1 but not so  large4 ,out of   
the lowest branches they contrive to    
make the floor of  a sort of circular   
gallery1 twenty paces or so in diameter4
 ,they next  braid these branches       
together in an upward direction so as to
 form the  side of the gallery          
aforesaid1 and likewise let them grow   
upwards as  high as possible4 ,they     
afterwards clip the tree1 and prevent   
the growth  of any branch from the      
trunk1 so far as it passes through the  
gallery1  which is for the space of ten 
feet4 ,they take the upper branches of  
the  tree1 and these they lay down upon 
supports of willow in order to form  a  

roof to the little chamber4 ,then       
branches are plaited from below1 and  at
 last joined to those which grow upward 
from the contrary direction3  thus the  
whole space is filled with green growth4
 ,then they clip the  tree as high as   
the top branches1 which they allow to   
grow naturally4  ,the tree brought into 
this form is a very beautiful object4   
,in addition  they have made spring up  
at its feet a fountain of water which   
mounts  up as high as the floor of the  
gallery already mentioned4    ,m4 de    
,montaigne paid a visit to the          
burgomasters of the town1 who           
afterwards1 to show him courtesy1 came  
with certain other public  officers to  
sup at our apartments1 when they brought
 a present of  wine for him and ,m4     
d',estissac1 and certain speeches were  
made on  both sides4 ,the chief         
burgomaster was a man of good family who
 had  been brought up as a page in the  
house of ,m4 d',orlans1#dg and had  now 
quite forgotten ,french4 ,this canton   

professed to be well affected  towards  
our interests1 and had given proof of   
this disposition by a  refusal to join  
the league of the other cantons1 which  
the late ,duke  of ,savoy had tried to  
bring about1 and of which mention has   
been  made already4 ,on ,saturday1      
,october #hth1 we set forth at eight in 
the morning1 after breakfast1 from      
,schaffhausen1 where we had found       
excellent lodgment at the 8,crown40 ,one
 of the most learned men of the  place  
had a conversation with ,m4 de          
,montaigne1 and told him1 amongst  other
 matters1 that in truth the people of   
the town were not over  well disposed to
 our ,court1 forasmuch as whenever he   
had listened to  discourse concerning an
 alliance with our king1 the majority of
 the  people were always disposed to    
break it1 but that by the intervention  
of certain rich citizens the opposite   
policy had hitherto been adopted4  ,as  
we left the town we saw an engine made  
of iron1 like certain others  we had    

seen elsewhere1 by the help of which    
carts could be loaded with  heavy stones
 without the aid of human muscles4 ,we  
passed along beside  the ,rhine1 leaving
 it on our right hand1 as far as ,stein1
 a small town1  the ally of the cantons1
 and of the same religion as            
,schaffhausen4 ,also  on the road we    
observed many stone crosses4 ,here we   
again crossed  the ,rhine by a wooden   
bridge and1 still keeping beside the    
river on  the left1 we passed by another
 small town allied to the ,catholic     
cantons4 ,here the ,rhine spreads out to
 a vast width1 equal to that of  the    
,garonne at ,blaye1 and then narrows    
itself till the approach to  ,constance1
 a distance of four leagues4            
,illustration3 ,,constance    ,from     
,civitates ,orbis ,terrarum        ,to  
face p4 #if1 vol4 i4            ,,iii   
,,the ,,empire      ,we arrived at      
,constance at four o'clock4 ,this town1 
which is about the  size of ,chlons1    
belongs to the ,archduke of ,austria1   

and holds to the  ,catholic religion1   
though up to thirty years ago it was in 
the hands  of the ,lutherans1 whom the  
,emperor ,charles ,v4 drove out by      
force4 ,the  churches still show signs  
of images1 and the bishop is a gentleman
  of the country1 who lives at ,rome1   
and as a cardinal draws from this       
benefice an income of forty thousand    
crowns4 ,there are canonries1 too1  of  
the church of ,notre ,dame1 which are   
worth fifteen hundred crowns1  and are  
held by men of gentle family4 ,we saw   
one of these on horseback  coming in    
from the country1 attired gallantly like
 a gentleman-of-arms2  and report says  
that in the town are many ,lutherans4   
,we ascended  the clock tower1 which is 
very high1 and there found a man as     
fixed  sentinel1 who is shut therein and
 not suffered to quit his post1         
whatever may call him thence4 ,they were
 constructing beside the ,rhine a  large
 covered building1 fifty feet long and  
forty wide1 or thereabouts1  and fixing 

therein twelve or fifteen great wheels1 
by means of which  they propose to raise
 continuously a large quantity of water 
up to a  wooden tower1 one storey       
higher1 where will be an equal number of
 iron  wheels 7the lower ones are of    
wood71 which will raise the water from  
the first floor to the one above4 ,the  
water1 having been lifted to the  height
 of some fifty feet1 will discharge     
itself by a large artificial  channel   
and flow down into the town1 and set    
several mills to work4 ,the  artisan who
 has the direction of this building had 
for his labour alone  five thousand     
seven hundred florins1 and wine to boot4
 ,in the deep  water they were fixing a 
strong wooden erection all around to    
break the  current2 so that1 when the   
force of the water should be moderated1 
they might be able to draw it upwards   
more easily4 ,there was also an         
arrangement of machinery by which the   
whole system of wheelwork can be  raised
 or lowered according to the level of   

the water4    ,at this point the stream 
is not called the ,rhine1 for by the    
upper part  of the city it spreads out  
into a lake full four ,german leagues in
  width and five or six in length4      
,there is a fine terrace overlooking    
this lake where merchandise is stored1  
and about fifty paces from the  shore   
stands a finely-built lodge1 where a    
sentinel is always on duty4  ,a chain is
 here prepared1 by which the way of     
access to the bridge may  be closed1 and
 high palisades are set1 which enclose  
on both sides that  part of the lake in 
which boats lie and take in cargo4 ,near
 the church  of ,notre ,dame there is a 
conduit by which water from the ,rhine  
higher  up finds its way to the suburbs 
of the town4    ,we perceived that we   
were leaving behind us the country of   
the ,swiss1  for the reason that1       
shortly before we came to the entrance  
to the  town1 we saw several noblemen's 
dwellings1 such as are seldom or never  
seen in ,switzerland2 and as to the     

private houses1 both in town and        
country1 we found them beyond all       
comparison better than in ,france1  and 
they seem to lack nothing except slate  
roofs4 ,to speak more  particularly of  
the hostelries1 they might perhaps      
provide a somewhat  better style of     
entertainment2 moreover1 with regard to 
certain  deficiencies which we found in 
the service1 these could not have been  
the result of poverty4 ,what we had seen
 of their way of life in other  respects
 forbade us to believe this1 seeing that
 it is hard to name a  place where they 
do not drink from fine silver cups1     
gilded and chased2  wherefore1 what     
seemed to us strange1 was simply local  
custom4 ,the  country is very rich1     
especially in wine4 ,to return to the   
town of  ,constance1 we were badly      
lodged at the 8,eagle10 and we got from 
our  host a sample of the barbaric      
,german arrogance and independence over 
the quarrel of one of our serving-men   
with our guide from ,basle4 ,and  when  

the question came before the judges to  
whom the guide made an  appeal1 it      
chanced that ,m4 de ,montaigne asked the
 provost of the place1  an ,italian     
gentleman1 married and settled there for
 a long time with  full right of        
citizenship1 whether the servants he had
 with him could  give evidence on our   
behalf4 ,the provost answered that they 
could1  provided ,m4 de ,montaigne      
should have discharged them from his    
service4  ,he might1 of course1         
re-engage them immediately afterwards2 a
 reply  which seemed full of subtlety4  
,on the following day1 ,sunday1 on      
account of this tumult1 we only  tarried
 until after dinner1 and then changed   
our quarters to the  8,pike10 where we  
fared excellently4 ,the son of the      
captain of the town1  who was brought up
 as a page in the household of ,m4 de   
,meru1#dh was  always in attendance upon
 ,messieurs at table and elsewhere4 ,he 
did  not know a word of ,french4 ,the   
service at table is very often varied4  

,they gave us here1 and subsequently in 
other places1 after the cloth  was      
removed1 other courses with our wine4   
,the first what the ,gascons  call      
canaules1 then spiced bread1 and lastly 
white bread cut into  slices1 but still 
holding together4 ,in the cuttings they 
put plenty  of spices and salt1 as also 
in the crust of the bread4 ,there are   
many  lepers in this country1 the       
highways being full of them4 ,the       
villagers  give their workmen for       
mid-day meal large flat loaves1#di made 
with  fennel1 and spread upon these a   
mess of bacon1 cut very small and mixed 
with cloves of garlic4 ,the ,germans1   
when they would do honour to a man1     
always place themselves on his left     
side1 whatever seat he may occupy1  and 
maintain that to sit on his right hand  
is to put an insult on him1  saying that
 to show true deference to a man it is  
necessary to leave  his right side free1
 so that he may easily put his hand to  
his arms4  ,after dinner on the ,sunday 

we quitted ,constance1 and after        
crossing the  lake at a point about a   
league from the town1 we reached        
,smardorff in  time for bed1 after      
travelling two leagues4    ,smardorff#ej
 is a small ,catholic town4 ,we had     
lodging at the 8,standard  of ,cologne10
 a post-house which is kept here for the
 ,emperor's route  into ,italy4 ,there1 
as in other places1 they fill the       
mattresses with  the leaves of a certain
 tree1 which serves the purpose better  
than  straw and lasts longer4 ,the town 
is surrounded by a wide plain of        
vineyard which produces excellent wine4 
,on ,monday1 the #ajth ,october1  we    
started after breakfast2 for ,m4 de     
,montaigne was persuaded by  the beauty 
of the day to change the plan he had    
made of going to  ,ravensburg1 and make 
a day's journey to ,lindau instead4 ,m4 
de ,montaigne  never took breakfast1 but
 caused to be brought to him a piece of 
dry bread which he would eat during the 
journey1 adding thereto  occasionally   

such grapes as he could get on the road1
 the vintage being  still in course of  
gathering in this region even up to the 
outskirts of  ,lindau4 ,their practice  
is to train the vines up on trellises1  
and they  leave therein divers verdurous
 alleys which are delightful to the     
view4  ,we passed through ,sonchem1#ea  
an imperial ,catholic town on the bank  
of the ,lake of ,constance1 to which all
 the wares of ,ulm and ,nuremburg  and  
divers other places are brought in      
waggons1 thence to be conveyed  through 
the lake to the ,rhine route4 ,after    
travelling three leagues we  arrived    
about three in the afternoon at         
,linde4#eb    ,the little town is       
situated some hundred paces out into the
 lake1 which  distance is traversed over
 a stone bridge4 ,there is no other     
entrance1  all the rest of the town     
being surrounded by the lake1 which is  
at  least a league in width1 and on the 
other side rise the mountains of  the   
,grisons4 ,the lake and all the streams 

are low in winter and full in  summer on
 account of the melting of the snow4    
,all through these parts  the women     
cover their heads with bonnets of fur   
like our skull-caps1  each costing about
 three testoons2#ec the outside being   
trimmed with  some seemly grey fur1 and 
the inside with lambs'-wool4 ,the       
opening  which in our caps is in front  
is in theirs behind1 and through it may 
be seen their hair tucked up4 ,their    
favourite foot-gear is boots1 and  these
 are either red or white1 each sort     
suiting the wearer not amiss4  ,both    
religions are followed4 ,we went to see 
the ,catholic cathedral1  built in #hff1
 where all things are as they have      
always been1 and we  saw also the church
 served by the ,lutheran ministers4 ,all
 the imperial  towns have liberty in the
 matter of the two religions1 ,catholic 
and  ,lutheran1 according to the        
leanings of the people1 and they devote 
themselves more or less to that form    
which they prefer4 ,at ,lindau1  from   

what the priest told ,m4 de ,montaigne1 
there are not more than two  or three   
,catholics4 ,the priests do not fail to 
draw their incomes and  to perform the  
service1 and the nuns who are there do  
the same4 ,m4 de  ,montaigne had some   
talk also with the minister1 from whom  
he got but  little information1 except  
to learn that the common hatred against 
,zwingle and ,calvin was prevalent here 
likewise4 ,it seems clear that  almost  
every separate place holds for its      
belief some particular view2  and1 under
 the authority of ,martin1 whom they    
hail as their head1 they  set up divers 
disputes on the interpretation of the   
meaning of ,martin's  works4    ,we     
lodged at the 8,crown10 a good house4   
,near the stone on the panelled  wall   
there was a sort of wooden cage for the 
keeping of a vast number  of birds4 ,it 
was fitted with hanging perches made of 
copper wire1  which gave room for the   
birds to shift from one end to the      
other4 ,the  furniture and woodwork of  

their houses is generally made of pine1 
the most common forest tree1 but they   
paint and varnish and polish it         
carefully1 and even use hair brushes for
 the furbishing of their chairs  and    
tables4 ,they have great abundance of   
cabbages1 which they shred  with a tool 
made for the purpose1 and then salt the 
same in vessels for  making soup in the 
winter4 ,at this place ,m4 de ,montaigne
 made trial of  the feather coverlets1  
such as they use in bed1 and was full of
 praise  thereof1 finding them light and
 warm at the same time4 ,it was a saying
  of his that people of fastidious taste
 had more occasion to complain  when    
travelling of their bed furniture than  
of aught else1 and he  commended those  
who carried a mattress or curtains      
amongst the baggage  when visiting      
strange countries4    ,as to fare at    
table1 they have such vast abundance of 
provisions1  and vary the service so    
widely in the matter of soups1 sauces1  
and  salads1 that nothing in our own way

 of living can be found to equal  it4   
,they gave us soups made of quince1 of  
apples cooked and cut into  strips1 and 
cabbage salad4 ,they make pottage of all
 sorts1 one of rice  which they eat in  
common1 having no separate service of   
this dish1 an  excellently flavoured    
one4 ,the kitchens are incomparably     
superior to  those of our great houses1 
and the sitting-rooms are better        
furnished  than with us4    ,they have  
abundance of excellent fish1 which is   
served at the table  with the meat4 ,of 
trout they only eat the liver1 and they 
have also  great plenty of game1 hares1 
and woodcocks1 which they dress in a    
fashion differing from our own1 but a   
good one all the same2 indeed  ,i have  
never met with meat so tender as that   
which was commonly set  before us4 ,they
 serve with the meat cooked plums and   
slices of apples  and pears1 sometimes  
putting the roast first and the soup    
last1 and  sometimes reversing this     
order4 ,as to their fruits1 they have   

only  pears and apples1 which are both  
good1 and nuts and cheese4 ,during the  
meat course they hand round a utensil1  
made either of silver or tin1  having   
four compartments filled with divers    
sorts of spices4 ,they also  use cummin1
 or some similar grain with a hot       
stinging savour1 as an  admixture to    
their bread2 this bread being made for  
the most part with  fennel added        
thereto4 ,after the meal they replace   
the glasses filled  full on the table1  
and offer two or three sorts of eatables
 which serve  to provoke thirst4        
,while he was travelling ,m4 de         
,montaigne noted with regret three steps
  which he had neglected to take with   
regard to his journey4 ,one was that  he
 had not taken with him a cook1 who     
might have learnt the particular        
methods of foreign lands1 and some day  
at home have shown proof of  his skill4 
,the next was that he had not engaged a 
,german valet1 or  joined himself to    
some gentleman of the country1 for he   

felt it very  irksome to be always at   
the mercy of a blockhead of a guide2 and
 the  last was that1 before setting out1
 he had neither consulted those  books  
which might have pointed out to him what
 rare and remarkable  sights were to be 
seen in every place1 nor included in his
 baggage a  copy of ,mnster#ed or some  
similar book4 ,in sooth there was mixed 
up with his judgments a certain asperity
 and want of regard for his  own        
country1 against which for other reasons
 he harboured dislike and               
discontent3#ee certain it is that he    
preferred the accommodation of  these   
lands1 without comparison1 to those of  
,france1 and conformed to  them so far  
as to drink his wine without water4 ,in 
drinking he never  took wine for its own
 sake1 but simply out of courtesy4      
,travel is more  costly in ,high        
,germany than in ,france3 for at our    
reckoning a man with  a horse will lay  
out at least one crown of the sun#ef per
 diem4 ,in  the first place the         

innkeepers here charge for food at table
 d'hte  four1 five1 or six batzen4 ,they
 make a separate item of everything1    
even the smallest refreshment that is   
taken before or after the two  regular  
meals1 wherefore the ,germans as a rule 
quit their lodgings in  the morning     
without drinking aught4 ,any additional 
service after the  principal meals1 and 
the wine consumed therewith--which is   
for them  the chief expense--they reckon
 together4 ,in sooth1 when we consider  
the plentiful fare put on the table1 and
 this especially applies to  wine1 even 
where it is exceedingly dear and brought
 from afar1 ,i find  the prices charged 
to be quite justified4 ,they themselves 
have a way  of urging the servants of   
their guests to drink1 and make them    
keep  at table two or three hours4 ,the 
wine is served from large jugs1 and  it 
is reckoned a breach of good manners to 
let a cup be empty and not  replenish it
 forthwith4 ,they will never give water 
even to those who  ask for it1 except   

these should be persons of great        
worship4 ,they add  to the bill the oats
 eaten by the horses1 and lastly the    
charge for  the stable1 which includes  
also the hay4 ,a good point about them  
is  that they ask at once what they mean
 to accept1 and one gains naught  by    
bargaining4 ,they are boastful1         
quick-tempered1 and drunken1 but  they  
are neither deceitful nor robbers1      
according to ,m4 de ,montaigne's        
opinion4 ,we departed after breakfast   
and made a journey of two leagues1  and 
arrived at ,vanguen#eg at two in the    
afternoon4    ,here a mishap befell our 
baggage mule1 which injured itself1 and 
compelled us in consequence to halt and 
to hire a cart for the next  day at     
three crowns per diem1 the driver1 who  
had four horses1 keeping  himself in    
victual for this sum4 ,vanguen is a     
small imperial town which  has always   
refused to harbour a congregation of any
 form of religion  other than the       
,catholic4 ,they make here scythes so   

famous that they  are sent for sale as  
far as ,lorrenne4 ,m4 de ,montaigne left
 it on the  morrow1 to wit1 on the      
morning of ,wednesday1 ,october #abth1  
and set out  for ,trent by the shortest 
route4 ,we halted to dine at ,isne1#eh  
two  leagues on our road1 a small       
imperial town very pleasantly situated2 
and ,m4 de ,montaigne1 according to his 
wont1 went straightway to call  upon a  
doctor of theology for the sake of      
discourse1 and this doctor  he brought  
in to dine with us4 ,he found that all  
the people were  ,lutherans1 and he went
 to visit the ,lutheran church which1 as
 with  all the churches they occupy in  
the imperial cities1 had been taken     
from the ,catholic4 ,while they were    
holding divers arguments concerning  the
 ,sacrament1 ,m4 de ,montaigne bethought
 him how1 during the journey1  certain  
,calvinists had informed him that the   
,lutherans now intermix  with the       
original tenets of ,martin divers new   
errors1 such as the  8,ubi-quis me10 and

 maintain that the body of ,christ is   
everywhere as  well as in the ,host2    
wherefore they fall into the same       
difficulty as do  the ,zwinglians1      
though by a different road1 the one by  
limiting too  much the bodily presence1 
and the other by a too lavish           
application of  the words 7for by their 
reasoning the ,sacrament would be no    
privilege  to the body of the ,church or
 to those two or three just men gathered
  together74 ,moreover1 the principal   
,lutheran arguments were that the       
divinity was inseparable from the body1 
wherefore the divinity being            
omnipresent the body must be omnipresent
 also4 ,they declare1 in the  second    
place1 that ,jesus ,christ1 being bound 
to be always at the right  hand of ,his 
,father1 is omnipresent1 seeing that the
 right hand of ,god1  to wit1 ,his      
power1 is in all places4 ,the doctor    
aforesaid gave strong  denial to this   
imputation1 and set up a defence against
 the same as  against a calumny2 but1   

indeed1 ,m4 de ,montaigne gathered the  
impression  that his defence was        
somewhat weak4    ,this doctor went     
afterwards in company with ,m4 de       
,montaigne to visit  a grand and        
sumptuous monastery1 where ,mass was    
being said1 and he  entered and bided   
there without removing his headgear     
until ,m4  d',estissac and ,m4 de       
,montaigne had finished their prayers4  
,they next  went to view in a cellar of 
the abbey a long cylinder-shaped        
fragment  of stone1#ei which apparently 
had once formed part of a column4 ,on   
it1  written in easily legible ,latin   
letters1 was an inscription telling how 
the ,emperors ,pertinax and ,antonius   
,verus had repaired all the roads and   
bridges for a distance of eleven        
thousand paces around ,campidonium1     
that is to say1 ,kempten1 whither we    
were bound for the night4 ,this  stone  
might have been set up to record some   
later repair of the road1  for report   
says that this village of ,isny is of no

 great antiquity4  ,in any case1 having 
inspected all the roads about ,kempten1 
we could  find no repairs worthy of such
 artificers1 and there was not a single 
bridge4 ,we certainly remarked that a   
way had been cut through some of  the   
hills1 but this work was not of prime   
importance4    ,illustration3 ,,kempten 
,from ,civitates ,orbis ,terrarum       
,to face p4 #aaf1 vol4 i4      ,kempten1
 three leagues farther on1 is a town as 
big as ,st4 ,foy1  handsome1 populous1  
and abounding in good lodgings4 ,we     
stayed at the  8,bear10 an excellent    
house4 ,at our meals they brought in    
great silver  vessels of various kinds  
7these in sooth were intended to serve  
merely  as ornaments1 being richly      
worked and covered with the arms of     
divers  gentlemen71 the sort of plate   
which is only to be seen in houses of   
high quality4 ,here it was that we were 
brought to see the truth of an          
observation which ,m4 de ,montaigne had 
made elsewhere1 to wit1 that if         

foreigners ignore certain usages        
favoured by ourselves1 it is because    
they hold these usages in slight esteem4
 ,for instance1 these people1  though   
they possess vast store of pewter       
utensils as well scoured  as those at   
,montaigne1 will only make use of wooden
 platters1 which  indeed are both well  
made and well kept4 ,in all these       
countries they  put cushions on the     
seats in the evening1 and nearly all the
 panelled  ceilings of the apartments   
are vaulted half-moon fashion1 which    
gives  them a very graceful appearance4 
,as to the linen1 concerning which  we  
had previously made certain complaints1 
we had no occasion to be  dissatisfied2 
indeed1 as far as my master was         
concerned1#fj ,i never  failed to       
procure enough of the same wherewith to 
fashion a pair of  curtains for his bed1
 and whenever he happened to want an    
extra towel  it was always given to him4
 ,in this town lives a certain merchant 
who carries on a traffic of a hundred   

thousand florins annually in  linen4 ,m4
 de ,montaigne1 on leaving ,constance1  
would fain have visited  that canton of 
,switzerland#fa which supplies linen for
 the whole  of ,christendom1 if there   
had not been four or five hours needed  
for  crossing the lake and back to      
,lindau4 ,this town 7,kempten7 is       
,lutheran1  and here1 as at ,isne1 the  
strange custom obtains that the         
,catholic  church is most sumptuously   
served1 notwithstanding the lack of     
worshippers4 ,on the morrow1 ,thursday1 
a working day1 the ,mass was said  at   
the abbey outside the town1 as it is    
given in ,notre ,dame1 at ,paris1  on   
,easter ,day1 with organ music1 though  
none were present but priests4  ,those  
who dwell outside the imperial towns are
 not free to change  their religion1 and
 many in this case attend the service   
aforesaid on  feast days4 ,this is a    
very magnificent abbey4#fb ,the abbot   
holds the  same as a prince1 and        
receives therefrom an income of fifty   

thousand  florins yearly1 the present   
abbot being of the house of ,estain4    
,all  the brethren are of gentle birth4 
,the abbey was founded in #ghc by       
,hildegarde1 the wife of ,charlemagne1  
who is buried there and honoured  as a  
saint2 and her bones have been          
disinterred from the vault in which     
they were laid to be placed elsewhere in
 a shrine4    ,on the same ,thursday    
morning ,m4 de ,montaigne went to the   
,lutheran  church1 which was similar to 
others of the same sect and of the      
,huguenots1 except that close by the    
altar1 which is at the head of the      
nave1 there are several wooden benches1 
with stools below1 so that  those who   
receive the supper may kneel1 as is     
their custom4 ,m4 de  ,montaigne found  
there two ministers1 elderly men1 of    
whom one preached  in ,german to a      
scanty congregation4 ,when he had       
finished they sang a  psalm in ,german1 
to music differing somewhat from what we
 use4 ,after  each verse the fine organ1

 which had recently been erected1 made a
  response in music1 and whenever the   
preacher named the name of ,christ  he  
and all his hearers uncovered           
themselves4 ,the sermon being finished1 
the other minister placed himself in    
front of the altar with his face        
towards the people1 holding in his hand 
a book4 ,a young woman with bare  head  
and loosened hair approached him1 and1  
after saluting him in the  way these    
people use1 remained standing before    
him4 ,soon afterwards a  young man1 an  
artisan with a sword by his side1       
presented himself1 and  stood beside the
 young woman4 ,the minister spoke a few 
words into the  ear of each1 directed   
them both to repeat a paternoster1 and  
then began  to read from his book4      
,there were certain ceremonies to be    
undergone  by those seeking marriage1   
and next the minister made them take    
each  other by the hand without kissing4
 ,when this ceremony was finished  the  
minister went his way1 and ,m4 de       

,montaigne caught him up1 and they  held
 a long discourse together after he had 
taken ,m4 de ,montaigne to  his house1  
which was seemly and well appointed4    
,his name was ,johannes  ,tillianus1 a  
native of ,augsburg4 ,m4 de ,montaigne  
asked concerning  a new ,confession1    
lately formulated by the ,lutherans to  
which all  the doctors and princes who  
supported it have put their names2 this 
however1 is not written in ,latin4 ,when
 they were leaving the church a  company
 with violins and tambourines came to   
meet the newly-married  pair and        
escorted them home4 ,on being asked if  
they permitted dancing1  the minister   
exclaimed1 8,and why not60 and again to 
the question3 ,why  had they let ,jesus 
,christ be represented in the windows of
 the church1  and upon the organs newly 
built8 and why had they set up divers   
images8  he replied that they did not   
condemn the use of images as warnings   
and  examples1 but only as objects of   
worship4 ,again1 when he was asked  why 

they had removed from the churches the  
ancient images1 he answered  that it was
 not they who had done this1 but their  
worthy disciples the  ,zwinglians1 who  
had occupied the churches in the first  
instance1 and1  being stirred up by a   
spiteful humour1 had done this outrage  
and divers  others to boot4 ,the same   
explanation was given to ,m4 de         
,montaigne by  other members of this    
confession during his travels1 the      
doctor at ,isne  to wit1 who1 when he   
was asked whether he hated the figure   
and effigy  of the ,cross1 cried out    
straightway3 8,how can ,i be such an    
atheist  as to hate this figure so full 
of joy and glory to all ,christians6    
,opinions like these are of the devil40 
,and as they sat at ease at table  all  
declared the same3 that they would      
rather hear a hundred masses  than take 
part in the ,calvinist supper4 ,at this 
place they served us  white hares at    
table4 ,the town is on the river        
,isler1#fc and1 after  taking our dinner

 there on the ,thursday aforesaid1 we   
travelled four  leagues over a rocky1   
sterile road to ,frienten1#fd a small   
village1  ,catholic like all the rest of
 this country1 which is under the       
,archduke  of ,austria4    ,when        
treating of ,linde1 ,i forgot to say    
that at the entrance of the  town there 
is a large wall bearing signs of great  
antiquity1 and having  naught written   
thereon that ,i see4 ,i heard that its  
name in ,german  signified 8the old     
wall40    ,on this ,friday morning1     
though our lodging was a very mean one1 
we  did not fail to find plentiful      
provision4 ,it is the habit of these    
people to warm neither their sheets     
before going to bed nor their  clothes  
before getting up1 and they take it ill 
if any one should  have a fire lighted  
in the kitchen for this service1 or even
 make use  of such fire as may be       
burning4 ,this was one of the chief     
causes of  wrangling we encountered in  
the houses where we lodged2 indeed1 even

 in  the depths of the mountains and    
forests1 where ten thousand feet of     
pinewood could be bought for less than  
fifty sous1 they were just as  ill      
disposed to let us make a fire as       
elsewhere4 ,on the ,friday morning  we  
departed1 and followed the more easy    
road to the left1 instead of  taking the
 mountain path which leads direct to    
,trent1 ,m4 de ,montaigne  being minded 
to make a dtour of several days in order
 to visit certain  fine cities of       
,germany2 and annoyed that1 when at     
,vanguen1 he had  altered his plan which
 he had first made of going direct to   
,germany1  and had taken another route4 
,on our road we saw1 as in divers other 
places1 certain water-mills which have  
water brought to them simply by  wooden 
troughs1 which take in the water at the 
foot of some mountain1  and then1 being 
raised and propped high above the       
ground1 discharge the  stream down a    
very steep incline from the end of the  
last trough4 ,after  going a league on  

the road1 we stopped to dine at         
,frissen4#fe    ,this is a small        
,catholic town1 belonging to the bishop 
of ,augsburg4 ,we  found there numerous 
members of the train of the ,archduke of
 ,austria1  who was paying a visit to   
the ,duke of ,bavaria in a castle hard  
by4#ff  ,it was decided to leave there  
on the banks of the ,lech our heavy     
baggage1 and that ,i and certain others 
should take them on to ,augsburg  on a  
raft1 as they term the trunks of trees  
bound together1 which they  break up    
when in harbour4 ,there is an abbey in  
which they showed to  ,messieurs a      
chalice and a stole which they hold to  
be relics4 ,these  belonged to a saint  
named ,magnus1#fg who was1 as they      
declare1 the son  of a king of          
,scotland1 and a disciple of            
,columbanus4 ,pepin founded this        
monastery for the benefit of this       
,magnus1 whom he made the first abbot4  
,he likewise caused to be written there 
on the roof of the nave this            

inscription1 and below the same notes of
 music to which it might be  sung3      
8,comperta virtute beati ,magni fama1   
,pipinus ,princeps locum quem  ,sanctus 
incoluit regia largitate donavit40      
,charlemagne subsequently  enriched the 
place still further1 as an inscription  
in the monastery  records4 ,after dinner
 we all met at ,chonguen#fh at bedtime1 
after a  journey of four leagues4       
,chonguen is a small town under the     
,duke of ,bavaria1 and consequently     
entirely ,catholic2 for this prince1    
beyond any other in ,germany1 has  kept 
his jurisdiction free from all touch of 
religious innovation1 and  is stiffly   
set in his views4 ,there is excellent   
lodging at the 8,star10  where we found 
a new fashion at table4 ,on a square    
board they arrange  the salt-cellars    
from one corner to another1 the         
candlesticks being set  between the two 
other corners1 thus forming a ,saint    
,andrew's cross4  ,they never serve     
eggs1 or at least only when boiled hard 

and cut in  quarters in the salads1     
which are of the best1 the vegetables   
being  quite fresh4 ,the wine is drunk  
new1 as a rule1 immediately after it is 
made4 ,they thresh out the corn in the  
barns as they may want it1 using  in    
this work the heavy end of a flail4 ,on 
the ,saturday we journeyed  four leagues
 and dined at ,lanspergs1#fi a small    
town belonging also to  the ,duke of    
,bavaria aforesaid1 and situated on the 
banks of the ,lech1  the town1 the      
suburbs1 and the castle alike exhibiting
 a remarkably  fine aspect4 ,we arrived 
there on a market day1 when the place   
was  crowded with people1 and remarked  
in the middle of a very large square  a 
fountain which sent up water through a  
hundred pipes to the height of  a pike  
shaft1 and scattered the jets in        
elaborate fashion1 according  to the    
manipulation of the pipes4 ,there is a  
very fine church in the  town and       
another in the suburb1 both high up on  
the hill1 which is  very steep1 and the 

castle is similarly situated4 ,m4 de    
,montaigne went  thither to visit the   
,jesuit college1 finely housed in quite 
a new  building1 to which they are about
 to add a church4 ,m4 de ,montaigne     
spent as much time as he had to spare in
 conversing with the ,jesuits4    ,the  
,count of ,helfenstein#gj was in command
 at the castle4 ,here1 if  any one      
should favour another religion than the 
,roman1 he would be  wise to keep silent
 thereanent4 ,on the gate between the   
town and the  suburb there is a long    
inscription in ,latin1 written in the   
year  #aeeb1 which declares that the    
,senatus populusque of the town built   
this monument to the memory of the      
brothers ,william and ,louis1 dukes     
utriusque ,boiari4 ,here there are many 
conceits after the following  fashion3  
8,horridum militem esse decet1 nec auro 
clatum1 sed animo et  ferro fretum20 and
 at the top thereof1 8,cavea stultorum  
mundus40  ,and in another place1 very   
conspicuous1 are certain words taken    

from  some ,latin historian1#ga         
concerning the battle which the ,consul 
,marcellus lost to a king of this       
nation3 8,carolami ,boiorumque ,regis   
cum ,marcello ,cos4 pugna qu eum vicit10
 c4 ,besides these there are  divers    
appropriate mottoes in ,latin over the  
doors of private houses4  ,these people 
constantly refurbish their towns and    
churches1 which in  consequence have a  
most prosperous look2 and1 as it        
happened most  seasonably for the       
amenity of our visit1 everything had    
been newly set  in order in this place  
three or four years before2 for they    
always  put the date upon their work4   
,the clock of this town1 like those in  
many other towns in this country1 sounds
 all the quarters2 and they  say there  
is one in ,nuremburg which sounds the   
minutes4 ,we left the  town after       
dinner1 and after going four leagues    
over a lengthy plain  of pasture1 very  
level1 like the plain of ,la ,beausse1  
we arrived at  ,augsburg4               

,illustration3 ,,augsburg        ,to    
face p4 #abh1 vol4 i4      ,this is     
reckoned the fairest town of ,germany1  
as ,strasburg is the  strongest4 ,the   
first sight we got of their household   
arrangements was a  strange one1 but it 
assuredly bore witness to their         
cleanliness4 ,this  was when we found   
the steps of the staircase of our       
lodging covered  with pieces of linen   
cloth1 upon which we were required to   
walk in  order that we might not soil   
the steps aforesaid1 seeing that they   
had  just washed and polished them1 as  
is their wont to do every ,saturday4    
,we saw no trace of cobweb or of mud in 
our lodging3 in certain of the  rooms   
were curtains which any one may at will 
draw over the windows4 ,it  is rare to  
find tables in the chambers1 save those 
which are attached  to the foot of the  
bed1 and these are made to go with      
hinges so they  can be raised or lowered
 at pleasure4 ,the footboards of the    
beds are  elevated two or three feet    

above the frame1 and are often as high  
as  the bolsters1 beautifully carven in 
pinewood1 but the pine they use is      
inferior to our walnut4 ,they make use  
of pewter plates polished bright1  but  
they put inside these other plates of   
wood1 and on the walls1  beside the     
beds1 they often hang up linen cloths   
and curtains in order  that the walls   
may not be sullied by the spitting of   
the guests4 ,the  ,germans set great    
store on coats-of-arms1 and in every    
apartment may  be found a great number  
of these which the gentlefolk of the    
country  on their travels have left     
behind2 the glass in the windows1       
moreover1  is often garnished with the  
same4 ,the routine of table service     
varies  greatly4 ,here they gave us     
first crayfish of a wonderful size1 but 
in  other places this dish has always   
come last4 ,in many of the large inns   
they bring everything in covered dishes4
 ,the reason why their window  glass is 
so brilliant is that they have no set   

window-frames like ours1  but casements 
which open at will and which they clean 
often4    ,on the following morning1    
which was ,sunday1 ,m4 de ,montaigne    
went to see  several churches4 ,he went 
to some which were ,catholic1 and       
everywhere  he found the service very   
well done4 ,six of the churches are     
,lutheran  and are served by sixteen    
ministers1 two of these churches being  
taken  from the ,catholics1 and four    
built by the ,lutherans themselves4 ,one
  of the last-named he visited in the   
morning1 and found it like the  great   
hall of a college1 with neither images  
nor organs nor cross1  but with the     
walls covered with inscriptions in      
,german taken from the  ,bible4 ,there  
were two chairs1 one for the minister or
 for whomsoever  might preach1 and      
another one placed lower for the leader 
in singing  the psalms4 ,at every verse 
the people wait for the leader          
aforesaid1  who gives the note4 ,they   
sing in haphazard fashion1 each one     

according  to his humour1 and with head 
bare or covered4 ,after the singing1 a  
minister who had been in the assembly   
went to the altar1 and read  from a book
 several prayers1 at certain of which   
the people stood up  and clasped their  
hands1 and made deep reverence at the   
name of ,jesus  ,christ4 ,after he had  
finished his reading to the assembly1 he
 put  before him on the altar a napkin1 
a basin1 and a saucer1 in which was     
water4 ,a woman1 followed by a dozen    
others1 brought to him a child1         
swaddled and with face bare1 whereupon  
the minister thrice took the  water in  
the saucer and sprinkled it on the      
child's face and said  certain words4   
,this being finished1 two men approached
 and each one of  them placed two       
fingers of the right hand upon the      
child2 the minister  then addressed     
them1 and this was all4    ,m4 de       
,montaigne held a conversation with this
 minister after he left  the church1 and
 was informed that the ministers receive

 no stipend from  the church1 their     
salary being paid by the ,senate as a   
public charge2  that there was a greater
 crowd of worshippers in this one church
 than  in two or three of the ,catholic 
churches together4 ,we did not see a    
single handsome woman4 ,the women wear a
 vast variety of attire1 and in  the    
case of the men it is a hard matter to  
say who is noble and who is  not1       
forasmuch as all sorts of men wear      
bonnets of velvet and carry  swords by  
the side4 ,we had our lodging at the    
sign of the 8,linde10  called after a   
tree of the country1 which stands       
adjoining the palace  of the            
,foulcres4#gb ,a certain member of this 
family1 who died some  years ago1 left a
 sum of two millions of ,french crowns  
to his heirs1  and these heirs made over
 to the ,jesuits of the city thirty     
thousand  florins for prayers for the   
soul of the deceased1 with which sum the
  ,jesuits are very handsomely equipped 
and provided4 ,this house of the        

,foulcres is roofed with copper3 as a   
rule the houses are much finer1  larger1
 and higher than in any ,french town1   
and the streets much wider4  ,m4 de     
,montaigne estimated the population of  
,augsburg to equal that of  ,orlans4    
,after dinner we went to see a show of  
fencing in the public hall1 where  there
 was a vast crowd4 ,we had to pay for   
entrance as to a puppet  show1 and for  
our seats in addition4 ,they showed us  
some play with  the poignard1 with the  
two-handed sword1 with the              
quarter-staff1 and  with the hanger4    
,afterwards we saw them shooting for a  
prize with bow  and crossbow1 on a      
ground far finer than that of           
,schaffhausen4 ,beyond  this place1 at  
the city gate by which we had entered1  
we observed a  copious stream of water  
which was brought into the city from    
outside  and led under the bridge used  
for traffic4 ,it is conveyed by a wooden
  aqueduct built below the bridge       
aforesaid1 and is thus carried over the 

stream which forms the city ditch4 ,this
 current in its course turns a  number  
of water-wheels attached to pumps which1
 by means of two leaden  pipes1 raise   
the water of a spring1 which rises in a 
hollow1 to the  top of a tower some     
fifty feet in height4 ,on the top of    
this tower the  water is poured into a  
great stone cistern1 and from this      
cistern it  runs down through divers    
pipes and is distributed all over the   
city1  which in consequence is          
abundantly supplied with fountains4     
,private  persons1 if it be their wish1 
may have a right of water for their own 
use on payment of an annual rent of ten 
florins to the city1 or for two  hundred
 florins paid down4 ,the city was       
enriched by this magnificent  work about
 forty years ago4#gc    ,marriages of   
,catholics with ,lutherans are common1  
and the one most  keenly set on marriage
 commonly conforms to the faith of the  
other4  ,there are thousands of         
marriages of this sort4 ,our host was a 

,catholic  and his wife a ,lutheran4    
,here they clean the glasses with a     
hairbrush  fixed to the end of a stick4 
,according to report1 excellent houses  
may  be bought for forty or fifty crowns
 apiece4 ,the city guard did ,m4 de     
,montaigne and ,m4 d',estissac the      
honour of presenting to them fourteen   
large vessels of wine for supper4 ,this 
was brought by seven sergeants  clad in 
uniform and an officer of worship1 whom 
our gentlemen invited  to sup1 as is the
 custom in such cases4 ,something1      
moreover1 is always  given to the       
bearers of the offering1 and the        
sergeants aforesaid got a  crown4 ,the  
officer who remained to supper told ,m4 
de ,montaigne that the  city maintained 
three officials whose duty it was to    
greet strangers  of quality who came to 
visit the place1 and that on this       
account they  always took care to       
ascertain the quality of each visitor1  
so that he  might receive the honours   
due to him4 ,moreover1 they offered more

 wine  to some than to others4 ,if a    
duke should arrive in the city1 one of  
the  burgomasters would attend to bid   
him welcome4 ,us they took for barons   
and knights4 ,for certain reasons ,m4 de
 ,montaigne was inclined to assume  this
 counterfeit dignity1 and to keep       
silence as to our real quality4  ,he    
spent the whole of the day walking      
through the town by himself1 and  was   
convinced that he was treated with      
greater consideration on account  of the
 aforesaid subterfuge4 ,a like honour   
indeed was paid by all the  ,german     
towns4    ,as he was passing through the
 church of ,notre ,dame on a very cold  
day 7for1 after having enjoyed the      
finest weather possible up to our       
departure from ,kempten1 we had of late 
been sharply pricked by the  cold71 he  
carried1 without thinking thereof1 his  
handkerchief at his  nose1 deeming that1
 being alone and plainly dressed1 no one
 would  remark him2 but after he had    
become more familiar with certain of    

the citizens1 they told him that the    
church officers had found his  carriage 
on the morning aforesaid very strange4  
,thus he committed the  fault he was    
ever most studious to avoid1 to wit1    
that he had made  himself conspicuous by
 a trick alien to the taste of those who
 remarked  the same2 for1 as far as in  
him lay1 he always conformed and brought
  himself in line with the manners of   
whatever place he might frequent2       
indeed1 while he was in ,augsburg he    
always wore a fur cap when he went      
about the town4 ,augsburg1 they say1 is 
free from the mice and large  rats with 
which the rest of ,germany is infested1 
and they tell many  wonderful stories   
thereanent1 attributing this immunity to
 one of their  bishops who is buried    
there1 and affirming that the earth from
 his  tomb1 which is sold in little     
portions the bigness of a nut1 will     
drive  away the vermin aforesaid from   
any place to which it may be taken4#gd  
,on the ,monday we repaired to the      

church of ,notre ,dame to witness the   
marriage of a rich young lady of the    
city--albeit ill-favoured--to a  certain
 ,venetian1 a factor in the house of the
 ,foulcres4 ,amongst the  guests there  
was not one good-looking woman4 ,this   
family is a very  numerous one2 they are
 all very rich1 and hold the highest    
position  in this city4 ,we visited two 
apartments in their house1 one high1 of 
grand measurement1 and paved with       
marble1 and the other low-ceilinged1    
enriched with medals1 both ancient and  
modern1 and having a small  room at the 
end4 ,these are the most sumptuous rooms
 ,i ever beheld4  ,at the gathering     
after the wedding we saw some dancing1  
and they  danced nothing but ,alemandes4
 ,they constantly stop dancing and  lead
 the ladies back to their seats1 which  
are ranged in double rows  against the  
walls and covered with red cloth2 but   
the gentlemen do  not sit there with    
them4 ,after a slight pause they take   
their dames  out again1 kissing their   

hands1 which salutation the ladies      
accept  without returning it2 and then1 
having placed the arm under the ladies' 
armpits1 they embrace them1 and the     
ladies put their right hands on the     
gentlemen's shoulders4 ,they dance and  
chat together with heads bare and  in   
sober attire4    ,we saw more houses    
belonging to the ,foulcres in other     
parts of the  city1 which is beholden to
 this family for the great outlay of    
money  they spend in its adornment4     
,these houses are summer residences4 ,in
  one we saw a clock which was worked by
 the flow of water which serves  as a   
counterpoise4 ,at the same place were   
two large covered fish-ponds  full of   
fish1 and twenty paces square4 ,round   
the brink of each of  the ponds are     
divers small pipes1 some straight and   
others curving  upwards1 and through    
each of these water is poured in very   
pleasant  wise into the pond1 some      
delivering it in a direct jet1 and      
others  spouting it upwards to the      

height of a pikestaff4 ,between the     
ponds is  a space some ten paces in     
width floored with planks1 and between  
these  planks are hidden certain little 
taps of brass4 ,thus1 at any time when  
ladies may go to divert themselves by   
seeing the fish play about the  pond1 it
 needs only the letting go a certain    
spring to make every tap  aforesaid send
 a jet of water straight upward to the  
height of a man1  and drench the        
petticoats and cool the thighs of the   
ladies4 ,in another  place there is a   
fountain pipe1 contrived to play a merry
 jest upon the  spectator1 for1 while   
you look at the same1 any one who is so 
minded  may turn on the water in tiny   
hidden jets1 which will throw in your   
face a hundred little threads of water2 
and there is set up a ,latin            
inscription3 ,qusisti nugas1 nugis      
gaudeto repertis4 ,near thereto is  a   
large cage1 twenty paces square and     
twelve or fifteen feet high1  which is  
enclosed all round with copper wire1    

well knit and fastened1  and inside are 
ten or twelve fir trees and a fountain4 
,this cage is  full of birds1 amongst   
others ,polish pigeons1 which they call 
,d'inde1  and which ,i have seen        
elsewhere3 these are large birds beaked 
like  partridges4    ,we saw also the   
handiwork of a certain gardener who1    
foreseeing  cold1 inclement weather1 had
 transported into a little shed a great 
quantity of artichokes1 cabbages1       
lettuces1 spinach1 chicory1 and other   
vegetables1 which he had gathered as if 
to consume them at once1 but in  lieu   
thereof had set them by the root in     
soil1 and hoped to keep them  good and  
fresh three or four months2 and indeed  
he had there a hundred  artichokes1 not 
the least withered1 though they had been
 plucked more  than six weeks4 ,we saw  
also an instrument of lead bent and open
 at  either end4 ,if any one should fill
 this with water and1 keeping both  ends
 upwards1 reverse it dexterously1 so    
that one end shall suck up  from a      

vessel filled with water1 while the     
other shall discharge  outside1 they say
 that if the stream be once set going1  
the water will  continuously rush into  
the tube and discharge itself at the    
other end1  so as not to produce a      
vacuum in the tube4    ,the escutcheon  
of the ,foulcres is a shield divided in 
the midst2 on  the left a fleur de lys  
of azure on a golden ground2 on the     
right  a fleur de lys of gold on an     
azure ground4 ,these arms the ,emperor  
,charles ,v4 granted when he ennobled   
them4 ,we went to see certain men  who  
were conveying from ,venice two         
ostriches to the ,duke of ,saxony4 ,the 
male was the blacker of the two1 and had
 a red neck2 the female was  of a grey  
colour and laid a great number of eggs4 
,the men said that  these beasts felt   
less fatigue than they themselves1 and  
constantly  contrived to escape1 but    
they kept them in hand by means of a    
band  which girt them round the back    
above the thighs1 and another one above 

the shoulders4 ,these bands held them in
 all round1 and the guards had  caused  
to be fastened thereto long reins1 by   
means of which they could  stop them1   
and make them turn as they desired4 ,on 
the ,tuesday the chief  men of the city 
showed us with great courtesy a postern 
gate1 through  which all who wish may   
enter the city at any hour of the night1
 whether  on horse or on foot1 by simply
 giving his name1 and the name of the   
citizen to whom he is going1 or the name
 of the hostelry he purposes to  visit4 
,two trusty men1 paid by the city1 keep 
guard1 and horsemen on  entering pay two
 batzen1 and footmen one4 ,the gate     
opposite to this one  in the outer wall 
is covered with iron1 and beside it1    
attached to a  chain1 is a handle1 also 
of iron1 which1 being pulled1 moves the 
chain  and strikes a bell in the        
bedchamber of one of the porters in a   
high  tower4 ,the porter1 though        
undressed and in bed1 by means of       
machinery  which he moves backwards and 

forwards can open the door aforesaid1   
albeit it is a hundred paces distant    
from his chamber4 ,the incomer will     
find himself on a bridge1 some forty    
paces long1 covered throughout1  which  
stretches over the city ditch4 ,along   
this bridge is a wooden  casing1 within 
which works the machinery devised to    
open the outside  door1 which is quickly
 closed behind the incomer4 ,the bridge 
being  passed1 the next place is a small
 enclosure2 and here a stranger will    
have to speak to the porter aforesaid   
and give his name and address4  ,then   
the porter with a bell gives notice to  
his mate1 who is lodged on  a lower     
floor of the gate tower1 which contains 
many apartments2 and  this porter1 by   
working a spring in a gallery adjacent  
to his chamber1  opens1 in the first    
instance1 a little iron gate2 and next1 
by means  of a great wheel1 raises the  
drawbridge in such quiet fashion that no
  one can detect any movement 7for      
everything works by means of weights  on

 the walls and on the doors71 and       
straightway everything closes again     
with a great clatter4 ,beyond the bridge
 a great door1 very thick1 opens  by    
itself3 this is of wood and strengthened
 by large sheets of iron4  ,the stranger
 now finds himself in a hall1 and in all
 his passage  he meets no one with whom 
he may speak4 ,when he is shut up in    
this  apartment another door1 similar to
 the aforesaid1 is opened for him1  and 
he can enter a second hall1 lighted1    
where he will find a brazen  vessel1    
suspended by a chain1 into which he     
casts the coin due for  his entry1 and  
this the porter hoists up to his        
chamber4 ,if he is not  content         
therewith he lets the stranger bide     
below till morning2 but1 if  he be      
satisfied1 he opens by similar means    
another great door1 which  closes       
immediately it has been passed by the   
stranger1 who then finds  himself in the
 town4#ge ,this is one of the most      
carefully wrought  devices to be found  

anywhere1 and the ,queen of ,england    
sent thither a  special ambassador to   
inquire of the city authority how it was
 worked1  but the explanation of the    
secret was refused to her4 ,underneath  
this  gateway there is a vast vault1 in 
which can be stabled under cover  five  
hundred horses1 to be maintained and to 
be used in war without the  knowledge or
 consent of the town council4    ,after 
our visit to this place we went to see  
the church of ,sainte  ,croix1 which is 
very beautiful4 ,there at certain       
seasons they have a  great ceremony on  
account of a miracle which came to pass 
some hundred  years ago4 ,it chanced    
that a woman instead of swallowing the  
body of  our ,lord1 took the same from  
her mouth and put it1 wrapped in wax1   
into  a box4 ,she confessed what she had
 done1 and afterwards found what she    
had placed in the box had changed into  
real flesh4 ,they bring forward  divers 
testimonies to confirm the above        
statement1 written both in  ,latin and  

,german1 in divers parts of the church4 
,they exhibit this bit  of wax enclosed 
in a crystal case and a little scrap of 
something red  like flesh4 ,this church1
 like the house of the ,foulcres1 is    
covered  with copper1 a thing not       
uncommon in these parts4 ,the ,lutheran 
church  is built adjoining thereto1 this
 religion being housed and established  
here1 as in certain other places1 almost
 in the cloisters of the  ,catholic     
churches4 ,in the churchyard of this    
church they have set up  the image of   
our ,lady holding ,christ in her arms1  
together with images  of saints and     
infants1 and this inscription3 ,sinite  
parvulos venire  ad me1 c4 ,in our      
lodging there was a machine made of iron
 fixed so  as to reach down to the      
bottom of a very deep well4 ,then up    
above a  servant1 by working a handle   
which moves the machinery up and down   
within a space of three or four feet1   
produces a pressure on the water  at the
 bottom of the well1 and propels it by  

the pistons of the machine  aforesaid1  
so that it is forced to ascend by a     
leaden pipe1 which takes  it to the     
kitchens and whithersoever else it may  
be needed4 ,they have a  paid cleaner   
who puts in order immediately any       
befoulment of the walls4    ,at table we
 were offered pasties1 large and small1 
made in earthen  dishes1 of form and    
colour exactly resembling that of a     
pasty crust2  and it is very rare to sit
 down to a meal without sweetmeats or   
boxes  of confectionery4 ,the bread is  
the best to be had anywhere1 and the    
wines good4 ,in this country the wine   
is1 for the most part1 white1  and what 
we drank was not grown near ,augsburg1  
but five or six days'  journey distant4 
,for every hundred florins which an     
innkeeper lays out  in wine1 the city   
government takes sixty as a tax1 and    
half this amount  is demanded of a      
private person who only buys for his own
 consumption4  ,in many places they     
still retain the custom of putting      

perfumes in the  bed-chambers and in the
 stoves4    ,some time ago the town was 
entirely ,zwinglian4 ,but since the     
,catholics  have been recalled1#gf those
 of the reformed faith take the second  
place1 and at this time1 though they are
 greatly superior in number to  the     
,catholics1 they are ousted from all    
authority4 ,m4 de ,montaigne also  paid 
a visit to the ,jesuits1 whom he found  
to be men of much learning4  ,on the    
morning of ,wednesday1 ,october #ai1 we 
took our breakfast1 and  ,m4 de         
,montaigne was much grieved to depart   
and leave unvisited the  ,danube and the
 town of ,ulm which it passes1 seeing   
that he was only one  day's journey     
distant4 ,he also desired to go to a    
bath some half-day's  journey farther on
 called ,sourbronne1#gg which is in a   
level country1  and has a spring of cold
 water1 good both for drinking and for  
the bath  when duly warmed4 ,it has1    
moreover1 a pleasant relish on the      
palate  which makes it agreeable to     

drink1 and it is excellent for          
distempers  of the head and stomach4    
,the bath is in great repute1 and       
visitors can  be most sumptuously housed
 there in fine apartments1 the same as  
at  ,baden1 according to what we were   
told thereanent2 but the season of      
winter was now approaching1 and this    
place lay in a direction opposite  to   
that in which we were bound1 wherefore  
it would have been necessary  for us to 
retrace our steps to ,augsburg1 and ,m4 
de ,montaigne was  greatly averse from  
traversing the same road twice4 ,i left 
a shield  with the arms of ,m4 de       
,montaigne in front of the door of the  
room he  had occupied1 marvellously well
 painted1 at a cost of two crowns to the
  painter and twenty sous to the joiner4
 ,the town is on the banks of the  river
 ,lech1 ,lycus4 ,we traversed a very    
fine country1 fertile with  cornfields1 
and after travelling five leagues1 we   
arrived at ,broug#gh  in time for bed4  
,this is a large ,catholic village1     

finely situated1 and belonging to the   
duchy of ,bavaria4 ,we started on the   
morrow1 ,thursday1 ,october #bj1 and    
after having traversed a vast plain of  
corn-land 7for in this country  no vines
 are planted71 and then one of pasturage
 stretching as far as  the eye could    
see1 we arrived1 after four leagues'    
journey1 in time for  dinner at ,munich1
 a large city about the size of         
,bourdeaux1 the capital  of the duchy of
 ,bavaria1 and the principal residence  
of the dukes1  situated on the river    
,yser1 ,ister4    ,illustration3        
,,munich    ,from ,civitates ,orbis     
,terrarum        ,to face p4 #aej1 vol4 
i4      ,the castle is fine1 and its    
stables are the best ,i have ever seen  
either in ,france or ,italy1 vaulted1   
and big enough to contain two  hundred  
horses4 ,the city is strongly ,catholic1
 and it is populous1  finely built1 and 
busy4 ,since the day after we quitted   
,augsburg we  could reckon the cost of  
man and horse to be four livres a day1  

and  forty sous for a footman at the    
lowest4 ,here we found curtains in the  
chambers1 and though there were no      
testers to the beds1 everything         
belonging thereto was exceedingly well  
found4 ,they clean the floors  with     
sawdust boiled4 ,everywhere in these    
parts they slice the radishes  and      
turnips with as great care and attention
 as if they were threshing  corn4 ,seven
 or eight men1 each one with a big knife
 in his hand1 will  set to work on the  
same with regular stroke1 as they work  
in our  wine-presses4 ,these vegetables1
 like their great-headed cabbages1 are  
salted for winter use1 and they plant   
them in their fields in the  country1   
rather than their gardens1 and harvest  
them4 ,the duke1 who was  at this time  
in the city1 has to wife the sister of  
,m4 de ,lorene1#gi  and has by her two  
sons1 big boys1 and a daughter4 ,the two
 brothers  live also in the city1 but   
they1 together with the ladies and all  
the  rest1 were gone hunting the day we 

were there4 ,on the ,friday morning  we 
went our way1 and1 as we passed through 
the duke's forests1 we saw  countless   
red deer in flocks like sheep4 ,we went 
in one stretch to  ,kinief1 an          
insignificant village1 about six leagues
 distant4    ,the ,jesuits1 who sway the
 government mightily in this country1   
have  made a movement which has roused  
against them the hatred of the          
people2#hj to wit1 that they have put   
constraint on the priests to  make them 
send away their concubines under severe 
penalties4 ,to judge  from the          
complaints made thereanent1 it appears  
that this licence was  formerly granted 
to them so freely that they treated it  
as a legitimate  thing2 moreover1 they  
are now about to address a remonstrance 
to the  duke4 ,it was here for the first
 time in ,germany that they served us   
eggs on a fast-day in any other way than
 quartered in a salad4 ,at  table we    
had1 amongst the silver1 some wooden    
goblets made of pipe  staff and hooped4 

,a young lady1 the daughter of a        
gentleman of this  village1 sent some   
wine to ,m4 de ,montaigne4 ,early on the
 ,saturday we  set out and1 after seeing
 on our right hand the river ,yser and a
 great  lake#ha lying at the foot of the
 ,bavarian mountains1 and ascending  by 
road for an hour1 we came to the summit 
of the pass1 where we  found an         
inscription1 recording how some hundred 
years ago a duke of  ,bavaria had cleft 
this way through the rocks4 ,then we    
plunged straight  into the bowels of the
 ,alps by an easy1 convenient1 and      
charmingly  made road1 the fine calm    
weather being greatly in our favour4 ,as
 we  descended from the summit          
aforesaid1 we passed a very lovely      
lake#hb  about a ,gascon league in      
length and the same in width1 surrounded
 by  high and inaccessible mountains2   
and1 keeping always the same road at    
the base of the mountains1 we came now  
and again upon small pleasant  level    
meadows with dwellings thereon1 and     

arrived without halting at              
,mittevol1#hc a little ,bavarian        
village1 pleasantly placed on the bank  
of the ,yser4 ,here we ate the first    
chestnuts we had seen in ,germany1      
served raw4 ,in the hostelry there is a 
hot room1 in which travellers  go to get
 sweated for a charge of a batz and a   
half4 ,i myself went  to see it1 while  
,messieurs were at supper1 and found    
there several  ,germans1 who were being 
cupped and bled4 ,on the morrow1        
,sunday1 ,october  #bcrd1 we set forth  
on the same path amongst the mountains1 
and soon  came to a house and a gate    
which barred the passage4 ,this was the 
entrance to the country of ,tirol1      
belonging to the ,archduke of ,austria1 
and after travelling three leagues we   
arrived in time for dinner  at          
,seefelden1#hd a small village with an  
abbey standing in a very  pleasant site4
    ,the church there is a very fair    
one1 and famous for a miracle4 ,in      
#achd a certain man1 whose name has been

 preserved there by adequate  and       
unbroken record1 refused to content     
himself on ,easter day with  the        
,eucharist as offered to the people1 and
 demanded to receive that  which was    
wont to be given to the priesthood      
alone4 ,while he had this  in his mouth 
the earth beneath him opened and        
swallowed him up to the  neck1 and while
 he held on for a moment to the corner  
of the altar the  priest withdrew the   
,host from his mouth4 ,they still       
exhibit the hole  covered with an iron  
grating1 the altar which bears the      
impress of this  man's fingers1 and the 
,host of a reddish hue like drops of    
blood4 ,we  found there1 written in     
recent ,latin1 an account how a certain 
,tiroler1  who had swallowed some days  
before a bit of flesh which stuck in his
  throat and could neither be swallowed 
nor vomited1 made a vow and  repaired to
 this church1 where he was healed       
forthwith4 ,on quitting  this place we  
found on the high land several nice     

villages1 and after  half-an-hour's     
descent1 we perceived at the foot of the
 hill a fair  hamlet finely placed1 and 
high above it on a cloven and seemingly 
inaccessible rock1 a magnificent castle 
commanding the road we had  come down1  
which is narrow and cut in the mountain 
side4 ,the road is  scarcely wide enough
 to let pass a common cart1 as in divers
 other  places amongst these mountains1 
so much so that the carters hereabout   
are wont to reduce the size of their    
carts a foot at the least4 ,beyond  this
 we came upon a valley of great extent  
through which the ,inn flows  to join   
the ,danube at ,vienna4 ,in ,latin it is
 called nus4 ,it is five or  six days'  
journey by water from ,insprug to       
,vienna4 ,to ,m4 de ,montaigne  this    
valley seemed the fairest country he had
 ever seen1 now narrowing  itself with  
the mountains pressing close on it1 now 
spreading out wide  on our side of the  
river--the left--and forming a space    
meet for  cultivation on the very slopes

 of the mountains1 which were not too   
steep for this1 and now expanding on the
 other bank4 ,next it would  reveal to  
the eye platforms on two or three       
different levels1 one above  the other1 
and everywhere fair houses of noblemen  
and churches4 ,and  all this in a       
country shut and walled in on every side
 by mountains of  immeasurable height4  
,on our side of the valley we espied in 
a rocky  place a crucifix1 set up where 
no man could have gone save by being let
  down by cords from above4#he ,they say
 that the ,emperor ,maximilian1         
grandfather of ,charles ,v41 lost       
himself one day while hunting in these  
mountains2 and1 as a witness of the     
danger he escaped1 he erected this      
image1 a story which is recorded by a   
painting in the hall of the             
,arquebusiers at ,augsburg4 ,we arrived 
that evening1 after travelling  three   
leagues1 at ,insprug4#hf                
,illustration3 ,,insbruck    ,reproduced
 from ,civitates ,orbis ,terrarum       

,to face p4 #aeh1 vol4 i4               
,,iv    ,,tirol      ,this is the chief 
town of the county of ,tirol1 nopontum  
in ,latin1  the residence of ,fernand1  
,archduke of ,austria4#hg ,it is a very 
beautiful little town and well built1   
standing in the bottom of the  valley   
and full of fountains and running water1
 a convenience most  common in all the  
towns we have seen in ,germany and      
,switzerland4 ,the  houses are almost   
all built terraced1 and we found        
lodgment at the  8,rose10 an excellent  
house where they served us on plates of 
pewter4  ,as to napkins of ,french      
fashion1 we had already had them given  
us  several days previous4 ,round about 
some of the beds they had hung  curtains
 which1 as typical of the character of  
the people1 were fine  and rich1 of a   
certain sort of cloth1 slashed and open 
worked1 and also  very short and narrow4
 ,in fine they were quite unfitted for  
the use to  which we put such things1   
and there was besides a little tester1  

three  fingers wide1 with a lot of      
tassels4 ,they gave me for ,m4 de       
,montaigne  white sheets trimmed with   
lace1 four fingers wide1 as is the      
custom of  most towns in ,germany4 ,all 
night long men go about the streets     
crying  the hour4 ,everywhere we have   
been they have the fashion of serving   
the fish the same time as the meat2 but1
 as far as we saw1 they offer  no meat  
on fish days4 ,on the ,monday we        
departed1 travelling along the  right   
bank of the ,inn through a fair plain   
for two leagues until we  reached ,hala4
    ,we made the journey solely to see  
this place4 ,like ,insprug it is a      
small town1 about the size of ,libourne1
 on the river ,inn1 which we  crossed by
 a bridge4 ,here is produced all the    
salt used in ,germany2  they make nine  
hundred loaves thereof weekly at one    
crown apiece1 the  loaves being about   
the thickness of a half-hogshead1 and   
somewhat  of the same shape1 for the    
vessel which serves as a mould is of the

  aforesaid kind4 ,this traffic belongs 
to the archduke1 and is carried  on at a
 vast cost4 ,to produce the salt they   
had gathered together the  greatest     
store of wood ,i ever saw1 for they boil
 in vast stoves of iron  the brine1     
which is brought from a mountain more   
than two good leagues  distant4         
,there are several fine churches1       
notably one belonging to the ,jesuits1  
and this1 as well as the one in         
,insprug1 ,m4 de ,montaigne visited4    
,other  churches there are1 richly      
adorned and finely situated4 ,after     
dinner we  recrossed the river1         
forasmuch as the fine palace where the  
,archduke  ,fernand of ,austria dwells  
is there situated4 ,m4 de ,montaigne    
desired to  kiss the hand of this       
prince1 as he passed thereby in the     
morning1 but  from what a certain count 
told him he learned that the archduke   
was  holding a council4    ,when we     
retraced our steps thither after dinner1
 and found that the  archduke was in his

 garden1 we hoped at least to be        
presented to him2  but those who went to
 inform him that ,messieurs were there1 
and at his  service1 brought word back  
that he prayed to be excused from       
granting  an interview at that moment1  
but that on the morrow he would find it 
convenient so to do4 ,meantime1 if      
,messieurs desired any favour of him1   
they might state their wants to a       
certain ,milanese count4 ,this cold     
reception1 added to the fact that he    
refused to allow us to see the  castle1 
ruffled somewhat ,m4 de ,montaigne's    
temper2 and when we spoke  of this      
offence to an officer of the household  
this gentleman told him  that the prince
 had said he was averse from seeing     
,frenchmen1 for that  the house of      
,france was the foe of his own4 ,we then
 returned to ,insprug4    ,we next saw  
in a church eighteen magnificent bronze 
statues of the  princes and princesses  
of the house of ,austria4#hh ,we also   
went to  sup with the ,cardinal of      

,austria#hi and the ,marquis of         
,burgant1#ij  sons of the archduke by a 
concubine1 the daughter of a merchant of
  ,augsburg4 ,she bore him only these   
two sons1 and then he married her  to   
make them legitimate4 ,she died during  
the present year and all the  court     
still wears mourning4 ,here the         
ceremonial is almost the same as  with  
our princes4 ,the hall1 the dais1 and   
the chairs were all covered  with black 
cloth4 ,the cardinal1 the elder1 is not1
 ,i fancy1 more than  twenty2 he drank  
wine freely diluted with water1 and the 
marquis naught  but sweet drink4#ia ,the
 dinner was not served in a closed      
tray1#ib  but everything uncovered1 the 
service of viands being conducted as    
with  us4 ,when they took their seats   
they placed themselves some distance    
from the table1 which was moved towards 
them1 laden with dishes2 the  cardinal  
sat highest1 the right-hand place being 
always reckoned the  chief one4 ,in this
 palace we saw two tennis-courts and a  

seemly garden4    ,this archduke is a   
mighty builder and planner of all such  
useful  devices4 ,there we saw ten or   
twelve field-pieces1 each carrying a    
ball  as big as a goose's egg1 and      
mounted on wheels enriched and gilded   
all  over2 the very pieces themselves   
being gilded4 ,they are made of nothing 
stronger than wood1 but the muzzles are 
covered with iron plating1 and  inside  
the guns this plating is of double      
thickness4 ,a man can carry  one on his 
back4 ,these guns are not fired so often
 as those cast in  iron1 but they will  
carry a ball almost as far4 ,at the     
archduke's  country house we saw two    
oxen of an extraordinary size1 grey with
 white  heads1 which ,m4 de ,ferrara had
 given him2 for the aforesaid ,duke of  
,ferrara had married one of his sisters1
 the ,duke of ,florence another1  and   
the ,duke of ,mantua a third4 ,at ,hala 
three others formerly resided  who were 
called 8the ,three ,queens10#ic for to  
the daughters of the  ,emperor they give

 this style1 as they call the daughters 
of other  rulers countesses and         
duchesses1 according to their estates2  
also to  the ,emperor's daughters is    
given a surname from the kingdoms ruled 
by the ,emperor4 ,two of these three are
 dead1 and the third1 who was  still    
residing there1 ,m4 de ,montaigne was   
unable to see4 ,she lives in  religious 
seclusion1 and has called in and        
established the ,jesuits at  ,hala4     
,report goes that the archduke cannot   
leave his possessions to his  children1 
but that these must revert to the       
successor to the ,empire4  ,they could  
not1 however1 give the reason for this  
arrangement2 and1 as  far as this remark
 applies to the wife1 it seems to carry 
no meaning1  forasmuch as1 though she   
was not of suitable rank1 still he      
married  her1 and all men hold her to   
have been his lawful wife1 and her      
children legitimate4 ,however1 he has   
amassed much money in order to  bequeath
 them something4    ,on the ,tuesday    

morning we resumed our journey1 crossing
 the plain and  following the mountain  
path4 ,at the end of the first league we
 ascended  for an hour a small mountain 
by an easy road4 ,on the left hand we   
had a view of divers other mountains1   
which for the reason that they  sloped  
gently1 were covered with villages and  
churches and for the most  part tilled  
up to the very tops1 a pleasing prospect
 on account of  the diversity of the    
landscape aforesaid4 ,the mountains on  
the right  were somewhat wilder and     
sparsely peopled4 ,we crossed several   
brooks  and torrents1 running in varied 
course1 and on the road we passed       
several large towns and villages and    
good inns1 at the very base of the      
mountains4 ,also on the left hand were  
two castles and some gentlemen's        
dwellings2 and1 about four leagues from 
,insprug1 on the left side of  a very   
narrow passage1 we came upon a bronze   
tablet1 richly engraved1  attached to   
the rock and inscribed thus3 8,the      

,emperor ,charles ,v41  returning from  
,spain and ,italy1#id where he had      
received the ,imperial  crown2 and his  
brother ,ferdinand1 ,king of ,hungary   
and ,bohemia1 coming  from ,pannonia1   
seeking one another after an interval of
 eight years1  met at this spot in the  
year #aecj4 ,ferdinand commanded this   
memorial to  be placed here40 ,they are 
represented embracing one another4    ,a
 short distance farther on1 as we passed
 beneath a gate which blocked  the road1
 we found written thereon some ,latin   
verses recording the  passage of the    
,emperor aforesaid1 and of his stay in  
this place  after his capture of the    
,king of ,france and of ,rome4 ,m4 de   
,montaigne  found the scenery of this   
pass greatly to his taste on account of 
the diversity of the objects to be seen1
 and we encountered no  inconvenience1  
except the thickest and most intolerable
 dust we had  ever experienced1 which   
kept with us the whole of our mountain  
passage4  ,after we had been on the road

 ten hours1 ,m4 de ,montaigne affirmed  
that  this journey seemed to him like   
moonlight travelling4#ie ,it was always 
his habit1 whether he purposed to halt  
on the road or not1 to let his  horses  
have oats to eat in the morning at the  
inn before starting4  ,after faring     
seven leagues1 we all arrived fasting   
late at night at  ,stertzinguen1 a      
decent little town1#if belonging to the 
county of  ,tirol1 with a fine new      
castle built on the rock above4 ,at     
table they  gave us round loaves1 joined
 one to another1 and as everywhere else 
in ,germany1 the mustard was liquid1    
with the taste of white ,french         
mustard4 ,everywhere the vinegar is     
white4 ,no wine grows in these          
mountains1 but corn enough for the      
inhabitants1 who drink three sorts  of  
good white wine4 ,all these roads are   
perfectly safe1 being much  used by     
merchants1 coachmen1 and carters4       
,instead of the cold1 which  had been   
instanced as a detriment to this road1  

we were troubled with  intolerable heat4
 ,the women of the country wear cloth   
hats1 like our  scholars' caps1 with    
their hair braided and hanging down as  
in other  places4 ,m4 de ,montaigne1    
having espied a fair young girl in a    
church1  asked if she could speak       
,latin1 deeming she was a scholar4      
,here we had curtains to our beds of    
thick linen dyed red4 ,in all our       
travels in ,germany we found no room or 
chamber which was not panelled1  the    
ceilings being very low4 ,m4 de         
,montaigne suffered this night from     
colic for two or three hours1 and very  
sharply1 to judge from what he  said    
next morning4 ,then indeed1 when he rose
 from bed1 he passed a  stone of medium 
size which crumbled easily3 outside it  
was yellowish1  and when broken showed  
white in the middle4 ,he had taken cold 
the  previous day and found himself     
ailing1 but he had not suffered from    
colic since ,plommieres4 ,this seizure  
partially removed the fear he  felt that

 at ,plommieres some gravel had         
descended into the bladder  without     
passing therefrom1 and that certain     
matter1 there arrested1 was  collecting 
and consolidating4 ,now1 seeing what had
 happened1 he felt  he might reasonably 
infer that1 if there were indeed other  
particles1  they would have joined      
themselves to the stone he had just     
passed4 ,on  the way he complained of   
pain in his loins1 and now he declared  
he  had prolonged the day's journey     
simply on this account1 deeming that  he
 would find greater ease on horseback   
than elsewhere4 ,at this place  he      
called for the schoolmaster to converse 
with him in ,latin1 but the  fellow was 
a fool from whom he could get no        
information as to the  country4    ,on  
the morrow1 ,wednesday1 ,october #bf1 we
 set out over a plain some  half-quarter
 of a league in width1 having the river 
,aisoc#ig on our  right hand1 and       
traversed this plain for two leagues4   
,at the foot of  the neighbouring       

mountains we saw here and there spaces  
of ground1  inhabited and cultivated and
 often adjacent one to the other1 but   
could  discern no road leading thereto4 
,we passed four or five castles1 and    
crossed the river on a wooden bridge1   
and came upon some roadmakers  who were 
repairing the way because it was        
somewhat stony1 but not  worse than the 
roads in ,perigord4 ,then1 having passed
 a stone gateway1  we mounted to higher 
ground1 where we came upon a level space
 about  a league in length1 and espied a
 similar plain on the other side of  the
 river1 both being sterile and rocky4   
,there were some very fine  low-lying   
meadows on our side of the stream4      
,after going four leagues  without halt 
we arrived in time for supper at        
,brixen1 a fair little  town1 through   
which flows the river aforesaid1 crossed
 by a wooden  bridge4 ,a bishop resides 
here and we saw two fine churches4 ,we  
found  good lodging at the 8,eagle40    
,illustration3 ,,brixen    ,from        

,civitates ,orbis ,terrarum        ,to  
face p4 #agb1 vol4 i4      ,the level   
ground here is of no great extent1 but  
the adjacent mountains  rise so gently1 
even on the left-hand side1 that they   
can1 so to  speak1 be curled and combed 
up to the very ears4#ih ,the whole      
country  seems full of clock towers and 
villages high up in the hills1 and  near
 the town are several fine houses well  
built and situated4 ,m4 de  ,montaigne  
declared 8that he had all his life      
distrusted the verdict  of other people 
upon the amenities of foreign lands1 no 
one being  able1 apparently1 to         
appreciate them except by the rule of   
his own  peculiar habit1 and the custom 
of his village2 and that he paid very   
little respect to the information given 
him by travellers4 ,but now he  was more
 amazed than ever over their stupidity1 
seeing that he had  heard tell--and     
especially concerning travelling in this
 region--of  the exceeding difficulties 
to be overcome in these passes of the   

,alps2  that the manners of the people  
were uncouth1 the roads impassable1 the 
lodging rough1 and the air intolerable4 
,as to the air1 he thanked ,god  to find
 it so mild--for he was fain of excess  
of heat rather than of  cold1 and up to 
the present we had experienced only     
three days of cold1  and an hour or so  
of rain--and moreover1 if he were minded
 to take  his little girl#ii of eight   
out for a walk1 he would as lief take   
her out on this road as in his own      
garden2 that1 as to the lodgings1  he   
had never seen a country where they were
 so plentiful and good1  having always  
found accommodation in handsome towns   
well supplied with  provision and wine  
at a cheaper rate than elsewhere40      
,they use in these parts a machine with 
various wheels to turn the  spits4 ,they
 bind closely a strong cord round a     
great spindle of iron2  this unwinds    
itself1 and1 the movement thereof being 
arrested somehow1  the process lasts an 
hour4 ,when it stops the machine has to 

be wound  up afresh4 ,as to smoke-jacks 
we saw several of these4 ,so great is   
the abundance of iron that1 besides     
fitting gratings of divers sorts  to    
their windows and doors1 they cover even
 the wooden shutters with  plates of    
iron4 ,here we came again into the land 
of vines1 which we  had lost sight of   
since we quitted ,augsburg4 ,round about
 these parts  most of the houses have   
every storey vaulted4 ,in ,germany they 
do what  we cannot do in ,france1 to    
wit1 they use hollow tiles to cover the 
narrowest slopes of roofing1 as in their
 clock towers4 ,their tiling is  smaller
 and more hollowed1 and sometimes       
plastered at the joints4 ,we  quitted   
,brixen on the morning of the morrow1   
and traversed the same  wide open       
valley1 the roadsides being adorned with
 divers fine houses4  ,travelling with  
the river ,eisock on our left1 we passed
 a small village  named ,clause1#ajj    
inhabited by various sorts of workers1  
and at the  end of three leagues came to

 ,colman#aja in time for dinner1 a small
  place where the archduke has a        
pleasure-house4    ,at table they gave  
us1 together with silver goblets1 others
 of painted  earthenware1 and they      
washed the glasses with white salt4 ,the
 first  service was sent up in a hot    
dish1 very handy1 which they placed on  
the  table with an iron implement4 ,it  
contained eggs poached with butter4  ,on
 quitting this place we found the road  
somewhat narrow1 and the  rocks closed  
upon us so much that the pass was hardly
 wide enough for  ourselves and the     
river together4 ,in sooth we should have
 been in  danger of pushing one another 
into the abyss1 if they had not built   
between the river and the wayfarers a   
wall which was continued in  places a   
,german league at a stretch4 ,the more  
lofty of the mountains  which stood     
around us were wild rocks1 some in solid
 masses1 some  scored and broken up by  
the passage of the torrents1 and some of
 a kind  of shale which let fall below  

innumerable fragments of astonishing    
size1 wherefore it impressed us that it 
would be perilous to travel  here during
 a tempest4 ,we saw likewise whole      
forests of pine trees torn  up by the   
roots which still carried masses of     
earth4 ,but the country  is well        
peopled1 for1 beyond these lower hills1 
we caught sight of  others higher up1   
cultivated and inhabited2 and we learned
 also that  above these were fine1      
broad1 level fields and good houses     
occupied  by rich farmers1 who raised   
abundant corn for the villages below4   
,we  crossed the stream by one of the   
numerous wooden bridges and then had  it
 on our left hand4 ,amongst other       
objects we saw a castle1 perched on  the
 loftiest and most inaccessible point of
 the mountains1 which they  told us     
belonged to a baron of the country1 who 
lived there and enjoyed  his fine lands 
and hunting4 ,beyond these hills there  
is always to be  seen the range of high 
,alps1 which we left to themselves4     

,they indeed  bar the issue from this   
pass1 so that the traveller has         
continually to  return to the course of 
the stream1 and to emerge again at some 
turn  or other4 ,this county of ,tirol1 
which yields no revenue except from  the
 mountains1 is worth three hundred      
thousand florins a year to the          
archduke1 more than he gets from all the
 rest of his dominions4 ,we  crossed the
 river again by a stone bridge1 and1    
after a bout of four  leagues1 we       
arrived in good time at ,bolzan4#ajb    
,this town1 about the size of ,libourne1
 is situated on the river before  named1
 and is somewhat less pleasing than     
other towns we had visited in  ,germany1
 so much so that ,m4 de ,montaigne      
exclaimed that it was evident  we were  
about to cross the ,german border4 ,the 
streets are narrow1 and  there is no    
fine public place1 but we still found   
fountains1 running  water1 paintings1   
and glass windows4 ,wine is so plentiful
 that they  supply the whole of ,germany

 with what it needs1 and the bread eaten
 in  these mountains is the best in the 
world4 ,the church is a very fine  one1 
and possesses amongst other things a    
wooden organ1 which is very  high and   
placed close to the crucifix by the     
great altar4 ,but the  player sits some 
twelve feet lower1 beside the column to 
which the  organ is attached1 and the   
bellows are underground outside the     
church1  about fifteen paces behind the 
organist4 ,the open space in which this 
town is situated is only just large     
enough to contain it1 but the  mountains
 to the right hand stand back somewhat1 
thus giving a little  extra ground4     
,from here ,m4 de ,montaigne wrote to   
,franois ,hottoman1  whom he had met at 
,basel1 8that albeit he was bound for   
,italy1 he had  fared so well in        
,germany that he quitted it with much   
regret2 that  strangers had to suffer   
the exactions of innkeepers there as    
elsewhere1  but that this abuse would   
soon right itself1 and that the         

traveller  would no longer be at the    
mercy of guides and interpreters who    
sold him  and shared the profit4 ,in    
every other respect he had always met   
with  unbounded courtesy and            
convenience1 and was specially struck   
with the  justice and security          
everywhere prevalent40#ajc ,we left     
,bolzan early  on ,friday morning1 and  
at two leagues' end we halted for       
breakfast and  to feed our horses at    
,brounsol4#ajd    ,this was a small     
village standing above the river ,eysock
 which1 after  bearing us company so    
far1 now mixed itself with the          
,adisse#aje and  flowed therewith to the
 ,adriatic ,sea1 broad and tranquil1 and
 no longer  resembling the brawling and 
furious torrents of the mountains above4
  ,the plain1 too1 became a little      
broader as far as ,trante1#ajf and  the 
hills showed their peaks less           
prominently4 ,the slopes of these1      
however1 are less fertile than those    
higher up1 and in the valley are  some  

swamps which encroach upon the road in  
places1 but elsewhere the  travelling is
 easy in the bottom of the valley and   
along the plain4  ,two leagues after    
leaving ,brounsol we came to a large    
village where a  great crowd was        
assembled by reason of a fair4 ,farther 
on was another  well-built village1     
called ,solorne1#ajg where the archduke 
has a small  castle on the left of the  
road1 set in a strange position on the  
point  of a rock4 ,five leagues' journey
 took us to ,trante1 where we arrived in
  time for bed4    ,illustration3       
,,trent        ,to face p4 #ahj1 vol4 i4
      ,trante is somewhat larger than   
,aagen1 an unpleasant place1 and quite  
lacking in the grace of the ,german     
towns1 with narrow and crooked          
streets4#ajh ,two leagues before        
reaching it we heard the ,italian       
tongue1 and the town itself is equally  
divided between the two  languages1 one 
quarter thereof being called after the  
,germans1 with a  church in which they  

have a preacher of their own speech4 ,we
 heard no  talk of the new forms of     
religion after we left ,augsburg4 ,in   
,trante1  which is on the ,adisse1 we   
saw the cathedral1 which had a look of  
great antiquity1#aji and the same may be
 said of a square tower near  thereto4  
,we likewise visited ,notre ,dame1 the  
new church where the  ,council was held1
 in which church there is an organ1 the 
gift of a  private gentleman4 ,this is  
exceedingly beautiful2 it is set up in a
  marble gallery which is carved and    
adorned with divers fine statues1  those
 of some singing children being         
especially lovely4#aaj ,this  church was
 built by ,bernardus ,clesius           
,cardinalis in #aebj1 a native  of      
,trante and afterwards bishop4#aaa      
,trante is a free town under the  charge
 and governance of the bishop1 but at a 
time when they were hard  pressed in a  
struggle with the ,venetians1 the people
 called in the  ,count of ,tirol to help
 them1 and in return therefor he has    

retained  certain authority and rights  
over the town4 ,there has been a        
contention  between him and the bishop  
over this matter1 but the bishop1 who is
 a  ,cardinal ,madruccio1 now holds     
possession4#aab    ,on this point ,m4 de
 ,montaigne said 8that he had taken note
 during his  journey of those citizens  
who had done good service to the towns  
where  they were born2 of the ,foulcres 
of ,augsburg1 to whom was due the main  
part of the embellishment of that city1 
who had placed palaces at all  the      
crossings of the streets1 and filled the
 churches with all kinds  of works of   
art2 of this ,cardinal ,clesius also1   
who1 besides building  this church and  
several streets at his own charges1     
added a very fine  building to the      
castle of the town40 ,the outside of    
this building is  nothing remarkable1   
but within it is furnished and painted  
and enriched  in a fashion beyond       
anything that can be imagined4 ,all the 
panel work  below is enriched with      

painted patterns1 the bosses of the     
ceilings  are gilded and carven1 the    
floors are made of a kind of hardened   
earth painted like marble1 a part of the
 rooms being fitted after one  fashion1 
and part1  l',allemande1 with stoves4   
,one of these is of  porcelain darkened 
to the colour of bronze1 and made in the
 form of  a group of large human        
figures1 which1 being heated warm the   
room4  ,moreover there are certain      
others1 stationed close to the wall1    
which  give out water1 this being       
brought to them from the fountain in the
  court below4 ,this is a fine piece of 
work4 ,we saw there also amongst  the   
other designs on the ceilings a         
torchlight procession by night1  which  
,m4 de ,montaigne admired greatly1 also 
two or three circular  chambers1 in one 
of which was an inscription recording   
how 8,clesius1  having been sent in the 
year #aecj to the coronation of the     
,emperor  ,charles ,v4 by ,pope ,clement
 ,,vii41 on ,st4 ,matthias's ,day1 as   

envoy on  the part of ,ferdinand1 ,king 
of ,hungary and ,bohemia1 ,count of     
,tirol1  and brother of the aforenamed  
,emperor1 was made a cardinal1 being    
already ,bishop of ,trent40 ,moreover1  
they have set round the chamber  the    
armorial bearings1 and painted on the   
walls the arms and the names  of the    
gentlemen who accompanied him3 some     
fifty in number1 all counts  and barons 
owing service to the bishopric4 ,in one 
of these chambers  there is a trap door 
through which a man can slip into the   
town without  passing the main entrance1
 and two richly ornamented              
chimney-pieces4  ,this was an excellent 
cardinal4 ,the ,foulcres have done great
 building  work1 but they have built for
 their posterity1 while the cardinal    
aforesaid has built for the public weal1
 for he has left this castle1  together 
with the furniture still in it worth    
more than a hundred  thousand crowns1 to
 his successors in office4 ,besides this
 he left to  the public fund of the     

bishopric a hundred and fifty silver    
thalers1  which is held without payment 
of interest on the same4 ,in spite of   
these benefactions they have left his   
church of ,notre ,dame unfinished1  and 
have erected a very mean tomb over his  
body4 ,his successors provide           
themselves with no other furniture than 
the aforenamed for the castle4  ,some of
 this is fitted for the winter1 some for
 the summer1 and none of  it can be     
alienated4    ,here they reckon distance
 by the ,italian mile1 of which five go 
to make  one mile of ,germany1 and they 
count the hours through to twenty-four  
without dividing them in the midst4 ,we 
found good lodging at the  8,rose10 and 
left ,trante on the ,saturday after     
dinner4 ,we followed a  road like the   
last we traversed in the valley1 which  
was here wider and  girt by higher1     
uninhabited mountains1 having the river 
,adisse on our  right hand4 ,there we   
passed a castle#aac belonging to the    
archduke1  which commands the road1 like

 various other strongholds elsewhere1   
built to control the passage1 and       
arrived at ,rovere#aad very late1  after
 travelling fifteen miles4 ,never until 
now did we journey in the  dewfall1#aae 
so carefully had we laid out our time on
 the road4    ,this town belongs to the 
archduke aforenamed4 ,here in our       
lodging we  found once more the usages  
with which we were familiar3 we found1  
indeed1 not merely ,german neatness in  
rooms and furniture and glass  windows1 
but ,german stoves as well1 which       
commended themselves to ,m4 de          
,montaigne much more than open          
chimneys4#aaf ,as to food1 we had here  
no crayfish1 which thing ,m4 de         
,montaigne found very strange1 seeing   
that1 ever since we left ,plommieres1 a 
distance of two hundred leagues1  this  
dish had been put before us at every    
meal4 ,here and in all this  mountainous
 country they commonly eat snails larger
 and fatter than  those of ,france1 but 
not so well flavoured2 also truffles    

which they  peel and serve sliced with  
oil and vinegar1 a passably good dish4  
,the  truffles we ate at ,trante had    
been kept for a year4 ,here at ,rovere1 
greatly to the gratification of ,m4 de  
,montaigne1 we were plentifully         
supplied with oranges and citrons and   
olives4 ,the bed curtains are cut  short
 and made either of cloth or serge4 ,m4 
de ,montaigne also regretted  the lack  
of those beds which they use as         
coverings in ,germany2 made  not like   
our beds1 but of the finest down        
enclosed in an envelope of              
well-bleached fustian4 ,the beds used   
for lying upon in ,germany are not  of  
this character1 and could not be used as
 coverlets with comfort4    ,i verily   
believe that1 if he had been alone with 
his own following1 ,m4  de ,montaigne   
would rather have gone to ,cracow or to 
,greece by land than  have turned       
towards ,italy4 ,he took great pleasure 
in his visits to  strange countries1    
finding therein forgetfulness of his age

 and of his  ill-health1 but he could   
never win over the rest of the company  
to this  view1 each one of them being   
anxious to have done with travel and to 
return4 ,he was ever wont to say that1  
after an uneasy night1 he would  rise   
eager and lively when he remembered he  
was about to sally forth to  see some   
fresh town or district4 ,never did ,i   
see him less subject to  fatigue or less
 querulous of his ailments2 so full of  
spirit both on  the road and at his     
lodgings2 so appreciative of everything 
he saw1 and  eager for conversation with
 strangers2 indeed ,i believe that this 
habit  drew off his thoughts from his   
infirmities4 ,when the others complained
  to him of his practice of leading the 
party over indirect and winding  roads1 
often returning to the spot whence they 
had set out 7which he  would often do   
when he heard report of something worth 
seeing1 or when  he saw reason for      
varying his plan of travel71 he would   
reply that1  for his own part1 he never 

set forth for any place other than that 
in which he might at present find       
himself2 and that it was impossible  he 
should miss or go aside from his route1 
because this route always  lay where    
places unfamiliar to him were to be     
seen2 and that1 provided  he did not    
fare the same road twice over1 or see   
one place a second  time1 he never      
considered that he had failed one jot in
 his original  purpose4 ,as to ,rome1   
which other people might easily see1 he 
was less  fain to visit it than other   
places1 because it was well known to    
every  one1 and moreover every lackey   
was ready to give news of ,florence and 
,ferrara4 ,he said that he seemed to be 
in like case to one who reads  some     
delightful story or good book1 and      
dreads to turn the last page4  ,the     
pleasure of travel was to him so keen1  
that he hated the sight of  the place   
where he ought rightly to stop and rest2
 moreover1 he devised  several projects 
of travelling exactly as the mood might 

seize him1  supposing that he should    
separate from his present companions4   
,on the ,sunday morning1 having a wish  
to see the ,lake of ,garda1 a famous    
lake of these parts and rich in the     
finest fish1#aag he hired three  horses 
for himself and ,messieurs de ,caselis  
and ,mattecoulon at twenty  batzen      
apiece4 ,m4 d',estissac hired two others
 for himself and the ,sieur  du ,hautoy1
 and with no escort--having left their  
own horses at this  place1 ,rovere1 for 
the day--they rode eight miles to       
,torbole1 where  they dined4 ,this is a 
village under ,tirolese jurisdiction1   
situated at  the head of the lake1 and  
opposite to it is a small town and a    
castle  called ,riva4#aah ,to this place
 they were taken by water1 five miles1  
and the same distance to return2 they   
accomplished the journey in about  three
 hours1 being rowed by five boatmen4    
,they saw nothing at ,riva save  a tower
 which had the appearance of great age1 
and the governor of  the place1 the     

,seigneur ,hortimato ,madruccio1 brother
 of the present  cardinal bishop of     
,trante4 ,in looking down the lake the  
farther end is  not in view1 for it is  
thirty-five miles long1 while the width 
and all  they could see of it did not   
exceed five miles4 ,the head of the lake
  is in the county of ,tirol1 but all   
the lower part on either side is  under 
the ,signiory of ,venice1 a region rich 
in fine churches1 gardens  of olives1   
oranges1 and other similar fruits4 ,this
 lake is terribly  rough in times of    
tempest1 and the surrounding mountains  
are more bare  and threatening than any 
of those we had hitherto passed1        
according  to the report of             
,messieurs4#aai ,on quitting ,rovere    
they crossed the  ,adisse1 leaving the  
road to ,verona to the left hand1 and   
entered a deep  valley where they passed
 through a long village and a small     
town1 the  road being the roughest and  
the view the most forbidding of any they
  had yet experienced1 by reason of     

these mountains which obstructed the    
way4 ,on leaving ,torbole1 they returned
 to ,rovere to supper4    ,at this place
 we put our trunks on one of the rafts1 
which are called  flottes in ,germany1  
for conveyance to ,verona by the river  
,adisse1  paying therefor a florin1 and 
on the morrow ,i had the charge of this 
transport4 ,for supper they gave us     
poached eggs and a pike1 together  with 
a great plenty of flesh of all kinds4   
,on the next morning1 ,monday1  they set
 forth early1 and following the valley1 
fairly populous but not  over fertile   
and flanked by high1 rocky mountains1   
they arrived after  riding fifteen miles
 at ,bourquet#abj in time for dinner4   
,this town  lies within the county of   
,tirol1 which is very large4 ,in this   
matter  ,m4 de ,montaigne1 when he asked
 whether this county included aught else
  than the valley we had traversed and  
the mountain tops we had seen1  was     
informed that it contained divers other 
mountain valleys1 fully as  extensive   

and fertile1 and fine towns3 that the   
county was1 as we saw  it1 like a robe  
in folds1 but that1 were it spread out1 
it would cover  a very wide stretch of  
country4 ,the river was all this time on
 the  right hand1 and when they resumed 
their journey after dinner they kept    
the same road as far as ,chiusa1 a small
 fort in a mountain cleft above  the    
,adisse1 which the ,venetians had taken4
 ,they followed the course of  the      
river1 descending a steep slope of solid
 rock over which the horses  could      
hardly keep their feet1 and passing the 
fort aforesaid1 where the  ,venetian    
government1 in whose territory they had 
been after a mile or  two on this side  
of ,bourquet1 kept twenty-five soldiers4
 ,they arrived  in time for bed at      
,volarne after riding twelve miles4 ,at 
this place  they found wretched lodging1
 as everywhere else on the way to       
,verona4 ,a  young lady1 the daughter of
 the lord of the castle who was then    
absent1  sent ,m4 de ,montaigne a       

present of wine4 ,on the morrow there   
were no  more mountains visible on the  
right of the road1 and to the left even 
the hills which lay upon the skirts of  
the plain were far distant4  ,the way   
was for some time over a sterile plain1 
but when it neared the  river it        
improved1 and vines1 trained upon trees1
 as is the fashion  in these parts1 came
 in sight4 ,after a journey of twelve   
miles they  arrived on ,all ,saints'    
,day before mass at ,verona4      ,,end 
,,of ,,vol4 ,i4          ,printed by    
,,ballantyne1 ,,hanson  ,,co4           
,edinburgh  ,london      ,,footnotes3   
#a ,the ,,ms4 of the ,journal was       
incomplete at the time of its discovery1
  certain leaves having been torn away  
from the beginning1 but the  concluding 
paragraphs supply the date at which     
,montaigne must have left  home1 i4e4   
,june #bb1 #aehj4 ,he seems to have     
halted at the outset of  his journey    
near ,la ,fre1 which was at that time   
besieged by the forces  of the ,league  

under ,marshal de ,matigon1 and to have 
gone thence to  ,beaumont-sur-,oise1    
where the ,journal begins on ,september 
#dth4 ,the siege  of ,la ,fre was       
undertaken by ,henry ,,iii4 as a        
counter-move to the recent  capture of  
,cahors by the ,huguenots4 ,operations  
were some time delayed  by the shortness
 of money and by an outbreak of         
whooping-cough1 the  first recorded     
appearance of this distemper4 ,the king1
 the greater part  of the courtiers1 and
 thousands of the people of ,paris were 
attacked1  and the whole city was       
panic-stricken4 ,when the ,catholic     
leaders were  at length ready to move1  
they spoke of the task before them as   
8un  sige de velours10 anticipating     
little difficulty or danger2 but they   
lost two thousand men before the place  
fell on ,august #cast4    #b ,for notice
 of ,mattecoulon and ,d',estissac1 see  
,introduction4    #c ,there is no exact 
clue to the identity of this person1 but
 there  is a passage in the ,essais1    

iii4 #d1 which seems to refer to him3   
8,je  fus entre plusieurs autres de ses 
amis1 conduire  ,soissons le corps de   
,monsieur de ,grammont1 du sige de la   
,fre1 o il fut tu40    #d ,meaux was    
besieged by the ,english under ,henry   
,v4 in #adbb4 ,the  ,march was the last 
part to surrender4 ,after the ,english  
had gained  the town1 ,monstrelet writes
 7,ch4 cclvii473 8,dedens laquelle ville
 se  loga le roy d',angleterre et grant 
multitude de ses gens4 ,et tantost  aprs
 gaigna une petite ysle assez prs du    
marchi1 en laquelle il fit  asseoir     
plusieurs grosses bombardes qui moult   
terriblement craventrent  les maisons du
 dit marchi et aussi les murailles      
d'icelleui40 ,ed4  ,paris1 #ahfj4    #e 
8,dans les premires annes du xviii4     
sicle on venait encore  admirer  ,saint 
,faron le somptueux tombeau d',ogier1   
monument execut  certainement avant le  
xiie4 sicle1 et suivant ,mabillon ds le 
ixe41  fort peu de temps aprs la mort du
 hros4 ,ce n'est pas ici le lieu de     

dcrire ce tombeau1 dont une gravure nous
 est heureusement reste2 mais  pour     
faire voir l'troit lieu qui unit les    
souvenirs historiques et les  traditions
 romanesques1 nous ajuterons que devant 
les colonnes avances  qui formaient une 
sorte de pristyle autour de la tombe    
d',ogier et  de ,benot1 son compagnon de
 guerre1 on distinguait les statues de  
,roland1 d',aude la fiance de ,roland1  
d',olivier1 et d'un prlat qui  semblait 
bnir l'union d',aude et de ,roland4     
,dans les mains d',olivier  tait un     
rouleau sur laquelle ,mabillon avait lu 
ces deux vers3 #8,aud1  conjugium tibi  
do1 ,rollande1 sororis1 ,perpetuumque   
mei socialis fdus  amoris'4444 ,ogier   
voulut-il consacrer dans l'abbaye de    
,saint ,faron  un immortel souvenir aux 
hros de ,roncevaux8 et lui mme aurait-il
  ainsi prsid  l'rection d'un riche     
monument qui devait lui servir  de      
sepulchre8 ou bien les moines de ,saint 
,faron1 plusieurs sicles  aprs sa mort  
auraient-ils eu la premire pense d'un   

mausole dont ils  auraient emprunt les  
principaux dtails de sculpture et       
d'architecture  au traditions           
populaires80--,histoire littraire de la 
,france1 xx4 #fij4    ,gaston ,paris    
7,histoire potique de ,charlemagne7     
remarks3 8,le monument  de ,saint ,faron
 de ,meaux tendrait aussi  faire croire 
qu'il 7,ogier7 a  t confondu avec       
,olivier40--,p4 #cjg4    #f ,he was a   
cleric attached to the diocese of       
,auxerre1 and in #aedf  became treasurer
 of the cathedral of ,meaux4 ,he was    
sent by ,francis ,i4  to the ,east with 
instructions to acquire ,greek ,,mss41  
and some of his  collections are now in 
the ,bibliothque ,nationale4 ,he died in
 #aeij1 and  was buried in the cathedral
 of ,meaux4    #g ,epernay4    #h ,piero
 ,strozzi1 son of ,filippo1 and an      
exile4 ,he entered the service  of      
,francis ,i4 in #aedb1 and served under 
the ,french kings till his death  at the
 siege of ,thionville in #aeeh4    #i   
,catherine dei ,medici4 ,strozzi was    

bitterly hostile to the ,medicis  then  
ruling in ,florence4    #aj ,september  
#hth1 the ,nativity of the ,virgin4     
#aa ,a ,spaniard educated at ,salamanca 
and a member of the ,jesuit order  since
 #aefb4 ,he taught theology and         
philosophy at ,paris1 and was said to   
have converted many ,protestants4 ,his  
success raised envy amongst the  other  
orders1 and he was accused of heretical 
views on the immaculate  conception4 ,de
 ,thou1 who was hostile to the ,jesuits1
 speaks of him as  a man of the highest 
character and the most brilliant parts4 
,his chief  work is a commentary on the 
,bible4 ,he died at ,rome in #aehc4     
#ab ,montpensier was ,louis de ,bourbon1
 who died in #aehb4 ,nevers was the  son
 of ,federigo ,gonzaga1 ,duke of        
,mantua4 ,he married ,henrietta1 the    
last  of the house of ,cleves1 and      
abandoned his ,italian title for that of
  ,duc de ,nevers4 ,he died in #aeie4   
,the dispute referred to was over some  
question of ,court precedence4    #ac   

,chlons-sur-,marne4    #ad ,antoinette  
de ,bourbon1 daughter of ,franois de    
,bourbon1 ,comte de  ,vendme1 and ,marie
 de ,luxembourg4 ,she married in #aeac  
,claude1 ,duke of  ,guise and ,aumale1  
who died in #aeej4 ,she lived till      
#aehc4    #ae ,montier-en-,der4    #af  
,this strange story is worthy of remark 
on account of the notice  thereof by    
,ambroise ,par1 the illustrious ,french 
surgeon4 ,he writes  7uvres1 vol4 iii41 
p4 #ai1 ,paris1 #ahda73 8,aussi estant  
la  suite du roy  ,vitry le ,franois en 
,champagne1 i'y vis un certain          
personnage nomm ,germain ,garnier3      
aucuns le nommoient ,germain ,marie1    
parcequ'estant fille estoit appell      
,marie3 jeune homme de taille  moyenne1 
trapp et bien amass1 portant barbe      
rousse assez espaisse1  lequel jusqu'au 
quinzime an de son aage avoit est tenu  
pour fille1  attendu qu'en luy ne se    
monstroit aucune marque de virilit1 et  
mme  qu'il se tenit avec les filles en  
habit de femme4 ,or ayant atteint       

l'aage susdit1 comme il estoit aux      
champs et poursuiuoit assez vivement    
ses porceaux qui alloient dedans un bl1 
trouvant un foss le voulut  affranchir3 
et l'ayant saut1  l'instant se viennent 
lui dvelopper  les genitoires et la     
verge virile1 s'estans rompu les        
ligamens par  les quels auparavant      
estoient tenus clos et enserrs 7ce qui  
ne luy  aduint sans douleur7 et s'en    
retourna1 larmoyant en la maison de sa  
mre1 disant que ses trippes estoient    
sortis hors du ventre3 la quelle  ft    
fort estonne de ce spectacle4 ,et ayant 
assembl des ,mdicins  et ,chirugiens    
pour la dessus auoir advis1 on trouva   
qu'elle estoit  homme1 et non plus      
fille3 et tantost aprs avoir rapport    
l'uesque1  qu'estoit le dfunt ,cardinal 
de ,lenoncourt1 par son autorit et      
assemble du peuple1 il receut le nom    
d'homme2 et au lieu de ,marie 7car  il  
estoit ainsi nomm auparavant7 il fut    
appell ,germain1 et lui ft  baill habit 
d'homme40    ,goulart 7,histoires       

admirables et mmorables1 ,senlis1 #afbh7
 also  notices the story4 ,in the       
,novell of ,morlini1 which was first    
published at ,naples in #aebj1 ,novella 
,,xxii4 is of a character somewhat      
similar1 and was borrowed by ,straparola
 for the ninth fable of the  thirteenth 
night of the ,piacevoli ,notti4         
,montaigne refers to this matter again  
in the 8,essays10 i4 #bj3 8,passant     
,vitry le ,franois je ps voir un homme  
que l'vesque de ,soissons  avoit nomm   
,germain10 a manifest lapse of memory1  
as in the text above  he expressly      
states that he was not able to see      
,germain4 ,his memory was  evidently    
treacherous4 8,ma librairie est assise  
un coin de ma maison3  s'il me tombe en 
fantaisie chose que j'y vueille aller   
chercher ou  escrire1 de peur qu'elle ne
 m'eschappe en traversant seulement ma  
cour1  il faut que je la donne en garde 
quelqu'autre4 ,si je m'enhardis en      
parlant1  me dtourner tant soit peu de  
mon fil1 je ne faux jamais de  le       

perdre3 qui fait que je me tiens en mes 
discours1 contraint1 sec1 et  reserr4   
,les gens qui me servent1 il faut que je
 les appelle par le nom  de leurs       
charges ou de leur pas3 car il m'est    
tres-malais de retenir  des noms4 ,je   
diray bien qu'il a trois syllabes1 que  
le son en est rude1  qu'il commence ou  
termine par telle lettre3 et si je      
durois  vivre  longtemps1 je ne crois   
pas que je n'oubliasse mon nom propre1  
comme ont  fait d'autres40--,essais1 ii4
 #ag4    #ag ,bar-le-,duc4    #ah ,son  
of a certain ,pierre de ,trves4 ,the    
college he founded was  directed by the 
,jesuits up to the outbreak of the      
,revolution2 the  chapel alluded to was 
added to the collegiate church of ,st   
,mark4 ,he  became dean of the college1 
and died in #aehb2 and his portrait now 
hangs in the museum at ,bar-le-,duc4    
#ai ,manois4    #bj ,charles ,,vii4     
#ba 8,cy git tel qui fut mors lors que  
li milliaires courroit per mil  deux    
cens40 ,querlon in his note in the      

edition of #aggd adds3 8,entre  autres  
plusieurs tombeaux de ,seigneurs de la  
,maison du ,chtelet il est  rapport dans
 les observations de l',abb             
,desfontaines 7,lettre #dfg7  qu'un du  
,chtelet voulut y tre enterr tout debout
 dans le creux d'un  pillier1 disant que
 #8jamais vilain ne passeroit par dessus
 son ventre4'0    #bb pinal4    #bc     
,plombires4    #bd ,jean d',andelot1 who
 fought on the ,imperial side at ,pavia4
 ,he was  of the family of ,andelot of  
,montague4    #be ,bagnres de ,bigorre4 
#bf ,the ,duke of ,lorraine4    #bg     
,bussang1 a well-known medicinal spring 
near the source of the  ,moselle4    #bh
 ,thann4    #bi ,mlhausen4 ,it was not  
incorporated with ,france till #agih4   
#cj ,the host's story is somewhat       
contradictory4 ,he says that for  twenty
 years past he had been the pensioner of
 the ,king of ,france1 and  in the same 
breath talks of having marched with     
,john ,casimir1 the son  of ,frederic   
,,iii41 ,elector ,palatine1 to fight    

against this same king in  #aefg4       
,perhaps his pension may have been in   
arrear4    #ca ,la ,fre had fallen on   
,august #cast4    #cb 8,de nomine hujus 
urbis quidam scribunt1 sed sine         
probatione1 ipsum  tractum a ,basalisco4
 ,fuerunt alii qui priusquam            
evulgarentur omnes  libri ,ammiani      
,marcellini 7saltem qui extant7 putabant
 ,basileam sic  dictam a passagio et    
trajectu1 qui in eo fuit loco anteaqu   
civitas  extrueretur1 ut scilicet a     
passagio illo rectius ,pastel quam      
,basel  primum fuerit vocata4 ,at       
,ammianus irrita reddit hanc cjecturam1 
qui civitat illam ,grca voce 1 id est   
regn vocat1 quasi  ,regnopolim seu      
regiam civitatem40--,munster1           
,cosmographie #aeff1 p4 #djj4    #cc ,it
 is difficult to identify this          
personage2 probably he was ,simon       
,grynus minor 7so called to distinguish 
him from his grandfather  ,grynus major7
 who wrote on medicine and mathematics1 
and died in  ,september #aehb4 ,or he   

might have been ,samuel1 a younger son  
of ,grynus  major1 a jurisconsult who   
was syndic of ,basel1 and died in #aeii4
 ,there  was also a ,john ,james1 a     
famous theologian1 who died in #afag4   
#cd ,franois ,hottoman was a ,french    
jurisconsult1 sprung from ,silesian     
parentage1 born at ,paris in #aebd4     
,though he became a ,calvinist1 he      
retained the favour of ,catherine dei   
,medici1 who sent him twice on  missions
 into ,germany4 ,he fled from ,paris    
after ,st4 ,bartholomew1 and  died at   
,basel in #aeij4 ,he was always in      
poverty through his attempts to  find   
the philosopher's stone4    #ce ,cardan1
 in his ,de ,rerum ,varietate1 first    
published in #aeec1  gives a description
 and drawing of smoke-jacks then used in
 ,italy4 ,book  xii4 c4 #eh4    #cf ,the
 ,aar to ,brugg4    #cg ,this sentence  
is confused and incorrect4 ,the         
reference is  manifestly to the abbey of
 ,knigsfelden1 close to ,brugg1 which   
was  founded in #acaj by the ,empress   

,elizabeth and her daughter ,agnes1     
,queen of ,hungary1 on the spot where   
,albert of ,austria1 husband of the     
former1 was killed by ,john of ,suabia  
in #acjh4 ,duke ,leopold and sixty  of  
the knights who fell at ,sempach in     
#achf were buried here1 but were        
disinterred by the order of ,maria      
,theresa in #aggj1 and re-entombed at   
,st4 ,blasien1 in the ,black ,forest4   
,querlon mistakes it for the abbey of   
,mouri4    #ch ,reuss4    #ci ,at this  
date there were thirteen cantons in the 
,confederation4    #dj ,eaux-,chaudes1  
in ,barn4    #da ,a village in the      
,department of the ,gers4    #db ,the   
ancient name was ,aqu ,helveti4 ,in the 
time of ,nero1 according  to ,tacitus   
7,hist41 i4 #fg71 it had all the        
appearance of a town3 8,in  modum       
municipii extructus locus1 amno         
salubrium aquarum usu frequens40  ,but  
nothing is said about the personal      
investigations of ,tacitus1 to  which   
,montaigne alludes4    ,querlon1 in a   

note on this passage1 remarks3 8,je ne  
sais o l'crivain  a pris cela4 ,la      
mmoire trompoit quelquefois ,montaigne  
come tous ceux  qui citent beaucoup1 car
 on ne peut mettre cette rudition que   
sur son  compte40    #dc ,in the spring 
of #adaf ,poggio ,bracciolini visited   
,baden1 and  during his stay wrote to   
his friend1 ,niccolo ,niccoli1 a        
description  of the place1 which is one 
of the most graphic and vivid pictures  
of  contemporary life4 ,it is given in  
,shepherd's 8,life of ,poggio40    #dd  
8444  ceus qui se conforment  eux40 ,but
 sense seems to show that  a 8ne0 must  
have slipped out of the text4    #de    
,rodolf ,,ii4    #df #ba batzen  #a     
,rhenish florin4    #dg ,probably       
,charles1 the younger brother of ,henry 
,,ii41 who died in  #aede4    #dh       
,according to ,querlon this gentleman   
was ,charles de ,montmorenci1           
afterwards ,duc d',anville and ,admiral 
of ,france1 son of the ,constable1      
,anne de ,montmorenci4    #di ,fouasses1

 which ,querlon describes as 8espce de  
galettes40 ,see  also ,rabelais1 ,book  
i41 ch4 xxv4    #ej ,markdorf4    #ea   
,this is probably meant for ,buchhorn1 a
 free imperial city4 ,in  #ahaj it came 
under the rule of ,wrtemberg and        
received the name of  ,friedrickshafen4 
#eb ,lindau4    #ec ,a silver coin worth
 about eighteen pence in ,english money4
    #ed ,the ,cosmographia of ,sebastian
 ,mnster1 one of the earliest           
guide-books4    #ee 8,il me semble que  
je n'ay rencontr gures de manires qui ne
  vaillent les nostres10 ,essais1 iii4  
#i4 ,montaigne's liking for ,germany    
and ,german ways is very marked4 ,it may
 perhaps be explained by a  passage in  
,essais1 i4 #be3 8,mon pre me donna en  
charge  un ,allemand1  qui depuis est   
mort fameux medecin en ,france40    #ef 
,a gold coin of the time of ,louis ,,xi4
    #eg ,wangen4    #eh ,isny4    #ei   
,now in the museum at ,augsburg4 ,the   
inscription is in ,mommsen1  ,corpus    
,insc41 iii4 n4 #eihg3--                

,,imp4 ,,caesar4      ,i4 ,,septimius4  
,,severus4 ,,pius4      ,,pertinax4     
,,aug4 ,,arabic4      ,,adiab4          
,,parthicus4 ,,maximus4      ,,pontif4  
,,mx4 ,,trb4 ,,pot4 ,,viii4      ,,imp4 
,,xii4 ,,cos4 ,,ii4 ,p4 ,p4 ,,procos4   
,,et      ,,imp4 ,,caesar4 ,,mrcus4     
,,aurel4      ,,antoninus4 ,,pius4      
,,aug4 ,,trb4      ,,pot4 ,,iiii4       
,,procos4 ,,et4              ,a4 ,,camb4
 ,m4 ,p4                  ,,xi4      #fj
 ,this passage seems to show that the   
servant who acted as  ,montaigne's      
amanuensis for this part of the diary   
was also his  valet-de-chambre4    #fa  
,st4 ,gallen4    #fb ,the abbey of      
,kempten was the most important of      
,south ,german  monasteries4 ,it was    
founded by ,benedictines from ,st4      
,gallen in the  eighth century1 became  
an imperial free town in #abhi1 and in  
#acfj the  abbot was made a prince4 ,the
 old town1 as ,montaigne saw it1 is     
still  ,protestant1 and a new ,catholic 
suburb has grown up outside the walls4  

,the legend of ,hildegarde's burial     
there and that she was once abbess of   
the convent seems to be false4    #fc   
,iller4    #fd ,pfronten4    #fe ,fssen4
    #ff ,hohenschwangau4    #fg ,st4    
,magnus was the first abbot of ,kempten4
    #fh ,schongan4    #fi ,landsberg4   
#gj ,schweikhart1 son of ,count ,george 
von ,helfenstein4 ,he was president  of 
the ,imperial ,court at ,innsbruck from 
#aefb-aefd4 ,he was a man of  learning  
and literary taste1 and translated into 
,german the works of ,s4  ,basil and the
 story of ,barlaam and ,josaphat4 ,he   
died in #aeia4    #ga ,livy4    #gb     
,fuggers4    #gc ,augsburg was one of   
the first cities in ,europe to be       
supplied with  water by artificial      
means4 ,the old water-works are still to
 be seen4  ,the view of ,augsburg in    
,mnster's ,cosmographia shows them      
exactly as  ,montaigne writes of them4  
#gd ,variants of this legend are        
numerous4 ,hector ,boece 7cap4 ix47     
affirms there are no rats in ,buchan1   

and ,sir ,robert ,gordon1 writing on    
,sutherlandshire1 says3 8,if they come  
thither from other parts in ships  they 
die presently as soon as they do smell  
the air of that country40  ,in ,sir     
,john ,sinclair's 8,statistical ,account
 of ,scotland10 in an account  of       
,roseneath1 in ,argyleshire1 it is      
stated3 8,from a prevailing opinion     
that the soil of this parish is hostile 
to that animal1 some years ago  a ,west 
,india planter actually carried out to  
,jamaica several casks of  ,roseneath   
earth1 with a view to kill the rats that
 were destroying his  sugar canes40     
#ge 8,and this their entrance is so     
curiously admitted1 as many  strangers  
desirous to see the fashion1 suffer     
themselves of purpose  to be locked out 
at night1 and willing give a reward to  
the souldiers  letting them in40--,fynes
 ,moryson1 ,itinerary1 i4 #bj4    #gf   
,in #aeeb3 ,mnster1 ,cosmographia       
7#aeei71 p4 #fjg4    #gg ,sauerbrunnen4 
#gh ,bruck4    #gi ,wilhelm1 who married

 ,rene of ,lorraine1 and abdicated in   
#aeif4    #hj 8444 denique ,laici usque 
adeo persuasum habent nullos ,clibes    
esse  ut in plerisque parochiis non     
aliter velint ,presbyterum tolerare1    
nisi  ,concubinam habeat1 quo vel sic   
suis sit consuetum uxoribus1 qu nec sic 
quidem usque quaque sunt extra          
periculam40 ,nicolaus de ,clemangis1 ,de
  ,prsulibus ,simoniacis1 p4 #afe4      
#ha ,probably the ,starnberger ,see4    
,this road was made by the ,romans4     
#hb ,the ,kochel1 or ,walchen ,see4     
#hc ,mittenwald4    #hd ,seefeld4    #he
 ,martinswand4    #hf ,innsbruck4    #hg
 ,ferdinand of ,tirol1 son of the       
,emperor ,ferdinand ,i4 and brother of  
,maximilian ,,ii4 ,he was born #aecg and
 died #aeie4    #hh ,the tomb of        
,maximilian ,i4 in the ,hofkirche at    
,innsbruck4    #hi ,cardinal ,andreas1  
the son of ,ferdinand of ,tirol and     
,philippina  ,welser4 ,he was made a    
cardinal at nineteen years of age by    
,gregory  ,,xiii4 ,he became legate in  

,germany1 and ,philip ,,ii4 at one time 
wanted to  make him governor of the     
,netherlands4 ,he died in ,rome in      
#afjj1 and lies  buried in the church of
 ,s4 ,maria dell' ,anima4 ,he was about 
twenty-four  when ,montaigne saw him4   
#ij ,karl1 the second son of the        
,archduke4    #ia ,bouchet1 sugar and   
water flavoured with cinnamon4    #ib   
,nef1 which1 according to ,querlon1 here
 means1 8tui ou bote o  se met le       
couvert des princes et des rois40    #ic
 ,ferdinand ,i4 left nine daughters4    
,the ,three ,queens were ,margaret1  who
 died in #aeff2 ,helena1 who died in    
#aegj2 and ,magdalen1 who was alive  at 
the time of ,montaigne's visit4 ,barbara
 was duchess of ,ferrara1  ,joanna1     
grand-duchess of ,florence1 and         
,catherine duchess of ,mantua4    #id   
,charles was crowned at ,bologna in     
#aecj4 ,the monument referred to  still 
stands in the pass of ,lueg on the      
,brenner4    #ie 8,m4 de ,montaigne     
disoit que c'estoit la lune de ses      

tretes40  ,querlon remarks1 by way of   
explanation3 8,parceque cette poussire  
obscurcissait le jour1 ne lui laissoit1 
ainsi que la lune1 que ce qu'il  falloit
 de clart pour se conduire40    #if     
,stertzing4 ,here the watchman still    
calls the hours of the night as  he did 
at ,innsbruck in ,montaigne's time4     
#ig ,eisack1 a stream which rises on the
 ,brenner and joins the ,adige  near    
,botzen4    #ih 8,qu'elles se laissent  
testonner et peigner jusques aus        
oreilles40    #ii ,leonore1 the only one
 of his children who survived him4 ,in  
alluding to those who died in infancy he
 says1 ,essais1 ii4 #h3 8,ils  me       
meurent touts en nourrice3 mais ,leonor1
 une seule fille qui est  echappe  cette
 infortune1 a attainct six ans et plus40
    #ajj ,klausen4    #aja ,kolmann4    
#ajb ,botzen4    #ajc ,in his ,voyage   
faict en #afjj1 the ,duc de ,rohan puts 
this matter  in a different light3 8,je 
passay  ,trente nullement agrable--et   
si ce n'estoit pour ce qu'elle est demy 

,italienne1 me rejouissait  de sortir de
 la petite barbarie et beuvette         
universelle1 je n'en  parlerois pas3 ne 
trouvant point que tous les             
mathematiciens de nostre  temps puissent
 jamais si bien trouver le mouvement    
perpetuel que les  ,allemans le font    
faire  leur goblets 444 cette si grand  
frequentation  de bouteils obscurcit    
tellement leurs autres belles parties   
que cela  les rends mprisables et       
inaccostables de tout le monde4 ,car ils
 ne  pensent faire bonne chre ny        
permettre amiti ou fraternit1 comme  ils
 disent1  personne sans y apporter le   
seau plein de vin pour la  sceler       
perpetuit40 ,the love of eating and     
drinking is still a marked              
characteristic amongst the ,tirolese4   
#ajd ,branzoll4    #aje ,adige4    #ajf 
,trent4    #ajg ,salurn4    #ajh        
,montaigne shows himself here less      
judicial than usual4 ,he had  evidently 
been so well pleased with his sojourn in
 ,germany that he  looked on everything 

over the frontier with a jaundiced eye4 
#aji ,it was begun in #abab and is built
 entirely of marble4 ,the tower  alluded
 to is the ,torre di ,piazza1 in which  
was hung ,rengo1 the great  bell of     
,trent4    #aaj ,the work of ,vincenzio 
,vicentini1 #aecd4    #aaa ,bernardo    
,clesio1 bishop from #aead to #aeci4 ,he
 was made cardinal  in #aecj4    #aab   
,the relations of the bishops of ,trent 
with the counts of ,tirol1  which       
resulted in the quasi subjection of the 
first named1 had been  embroiled by     
disputes over the right of taxation     
which the counts of  ,tirol claimed over
 ,church property in ,trent ever since  
the twelfth  century4 ,cardinal         
,madruccio held the see from #aefg to   
#afjj4 ,he was a  member of an          
illustrious family of the city4    #aac 
,probably ,castel ,beseno1 a notable    
stronghold in these times4 ,or  it might
 have been ,castelbarco1 afterwards a   
,venetian frontier fortress4    #aad    
,roveredo4 ,it had formerly been        

,venetian1 but was now under ,tirol  as 
a fee of the bishop of ,trent4    #aae  
,in the ,essais1 iii4 #ac1 ,montaigne   
writes of his horror of dew  and        
vapours4    #aaf ,another instance of   
his love of ,german customs4    #aag    
,garda has always been famous for its   
fish1 and the fishing  industry gave its
 name to the town at the outlet1        
,peschiera4 ,cardan  7,de ,vita ,prop41 
c4 xxx47 tells of a mighty pike he ate  
at ,sirmio  after a narrow escape from  
drowning in the lake4 ,in ,coryat's time
 it  was celebrated for its abundance of
 8,carpes1 ,troutes1 and ,eeles40       
#aah ,now an important town at the head 
of the lake4    #aai ,in describing this
 excursion the secretary uses sometimes 
the  first and sometimes the third      
person plural1 but this sentence seems  
to  show that he did not accompany the  
others1 and on leaving ,roveredo he     
went to ,verona on a raft in charge of  
the luggage4    #abj ,borghetto4        
,transcriber's ,notes    ,obvious       

typographical errors have been silently 
corrected4 ,variations  in hyphenation  
have been standardised but all other    
spelling and  punctuation remains       
unchanged4    ,italics are represented  
thus italic1 superscripts are           
represented  thus yn4