,transcriber's ,note ,italic text displayed as3 italic ,bold text displayed as3 bold ,,hand-,,book ----,,on---- ,,cheese ,,making1 ----,,by---- ,,geo4 ,e4 ,,newell4 ,,published ,,by ,,the ,,michigan ,,dairyman1 ,,grand ,,rapids4 ,,acknowledgment4 ,thanks are due ,messrs4 ,hunter1 ,walton ,co41 of ,new ,york2 ,childs ,jones1 of ,utica1 and ,d4 ,h4 ,burrell ,co41 of ,little ,falls1 ,n4 ,y41 for some statistical information contained in these pages4 ,,copyright #ahhi1 ,,by ,e4 ,a4 ,,stowe ,,bro4 ,,press ,,of ,,fuller ,,stowe ,,co4 ,,preface4 ,this little work on cheese manufacture is inscribed to makers1 dealers and consumers1 in the hope that its careful perusal may be of aid to one and all4 ,the prestige that ,american cheese holds in the markets of the world has been threatened from many quarters1 but we who inaugurated the ,cheddar system on this side of the ,atlantic are not prepared to succumb to competition1 however sharp1 or to prejudice1 however strong4 ,american cheese will hold its own as long as it has a square quality basis to stand upon4 ,we possess the most natural and privileged dairy regions on earth4 ,let us utilize to their fullest extent the great advantages within our grasp4 ,dairymen have of late been struck with consternation by the ascendency of ,canadian cheese over the ,states' product4 ,the dairy press have been pounding away at the gruesome situation so vigorously that many cheese men have been frightened into the belief that ,canada has a corner on gilt-edged quality and fancy quotations that is liable to continue indefinitely4 ,the writer has no such apprehension1 however1 and sees no reason why an ,american cheese should not always be a peer of the best4 ,there has been unanimous action all over the dairy portions of the ,dominion to effect the slight advantage they now hold4 ,if1 in a strenuous endeavor to improve the product1 our friends across the border have succeeded and at the same time have stimulated us to a like movement1 then thanks be to them4 ,legitimate competition aids all mankind4 ,as the caption indicates1 this treatise is from the pen of a practical maker1 who analyzes cheese manufacture from a standpoint of practice and experience1 and not theory4 ,in elucidating to my readers the fundamental and collateral fabric of milk manufacture1 ,i write from the desk of a cheese factory1 with milk1 utensils and product under my immediate and daily supervision4 ,in these pages1 ,i shall discard everything theoretic1 and base the whole value of the book on its practicability4 ,in doing so my constant thought shall be the elevation and supremacy of ,american cheese to the highest standard attainable4 ,to this manual ,i especially invite the criticism of the cheese profession in general1 trusting that it may be a convenient book of reliable reference to the experienced and a work of utility to the novice4 ,,geo4 ,e4 ,,newell4 ,,leonardsville1 ,n4 ,y4 ,,the ,,factory ,,building ,,and ,,site4 ,the site for a cheese factory should be a well-drained1 slightly elevated location1 convenient to a copious and perpetual flow of water4 ,the size of the building is1 of course1 to be measured by the amount of milk to be manufactured therein1 but the same internal arrangement is needed alike in both small and large factories4 ,the building should rest on a substantial stone foundation1 with a free circulation of air underneath1 and a complete system of troughs be appendent to carry all slops and whey beyond contaminating distance4 ,it is unnecessary that the building be more than a story and a half high1 unless the upper apartment is required for something besides curing cheese4 ,the make-room should be ceiled1 and the curing-room plastered4 ,the make-room should be in the front of the building1 with the engine-room on one side of it and the milk delivery window on the other4 ,the curing-room should be in the back4 ,cut off all superfluous space about the building and have just enough room to be nicely convenient4 ,put an awning roof over the delivery window1 wide and long enough to cover wagon and team4 ,set the vats broadside to the milk scales1 with ends towards the outer door4 ,the platform for the weighing-can and scales should be on a level with the top of the vats4 ,a small office desk should be hung to the wall near the weigh can1 and close at hand1 so that every patron can see them1 should be arranged the cream tubes1 and lactometer4 ,tin utensils can be hung on pegs in the wall1 and a stout1 low shelf in one corner will support rennet and annottoine jars4 ,have the aisle between the vats wide enough to permit of easy passage1 and at the farther ends of the vats sink a trough into the floor to carry off the whey4 ,have similar troughs under the presses4 ,the floor should be full enough in the center to gravitate all slop toward the drains4 ,it is useless to have a factory floor wet all of the time2 keep it dry by a system of neatness4 ,the curing-room should have an outside door1 from which cheese can be loaded4 ,an adjoining lean-to shed1 for storing empty cheese boxes and housing fuel1 is also a needed addition to the building4 ,for a one day milk delivery factory1 no ice-house is required4 ,build substantially and paint neatly1 aiming to have a model-looking factory4 ,beginning of the ,cheese ,factory ,system in ,america4 ,about the year #ahec1 a gentleman residing near ,rome1 ,oneida county1 ,n4 ,y41 ,jesse ,williams by name1 conceived the idea of manufacturing his neighbors' milk in common with his own4 ,this is the first known instance of manufacture in this country by associated dairies1 although the method was previously in vogue in ,switzerland4 ,i quote from an old report3 8,it required a long time to create the demand which now exists in ,england for ,american cheese1 and to ,herkimer county1 ,new ,york1 belongs the credit of creating it and securing the trade4 ,it was mainly effected by bringing a high degree of skill to bear upon the manufacture generally1 thus producing not only a good article1 but uniformly good1 or as near uniform as is possible when made in different families4 ,cheese had been sent abroad in small amounts for many years1 but when once by good quality and uniformity it had secured a firm foothold1 the amount exported increased with astonishing rapidity4 ,by gradual growth it had come to nine million pounds in #ahei1 in #ahfj it amounted to twenty-three millions1 in #ahfa to forty millions1 and the demand and supply have steadily increased ever since4 ,it is a noteworthy fact that systematic attempts to improve the manufacture of cheese began to be made both in ,somersetshire1 ,england1 and in ,herkimer county1 ,new ,york1 about the same time2 and also1 that with no knowledge on the part of either of the progress made by the other1 after lengthened experiments1 both should have adopted substantially the same method2 for it is a fact that the ,cheddar and ,herkimer methods so closely resemble each other that the only differences of any consequence are such as necessarily grow out of the difference of climate4 ,their process differs from most methods mainly in two particulars2 first1 in employing milk which has attained a proximate degree of acidity1 although never enough to be sensible to the taste1 instead of such as is quite new2 and1 second1 in the separation of the whey from the curd by causing its contraction and precipitation1 instead of depending mainly on mechanical means4 ,the improvements thus introduced within a comparatively recent period have resulted in several important advantages3 ,first1 a material reduction of labor2 second1 the production of a larger amount and a better quality of cheese from a given quantity of milk2 and1 lastly1 the cheese made by this method requires less time for the ripening process1 and thus is sooner ready for the market4 ,utensils ,necessary to ,stock a ,factory4 ,a boiler of moderate capacity1 with fittings complete2 milk vats with steam pipes and connections2 patent galvanized iron cheese hoops2 a gang press2 weigh can with large gate2 milk conductor to convey the lacteal fluid from the weigh can to the cloth strainer over the vat2 common sized scales that will weigh at least #fjj pounds2 small sized scales for weighing cheese2 two curd knives1 one with horizontal and the other with perpendicular blades2 large wheel with crank and endless rope for hoisting milk2 two stone rennet jars of a capacity of ten gallons each2 two thermometers1 one for the make and the other for the curing-room2 jar for keeping annottoine2 syphon and tin strainer for drawing whey from the vat2 a self-salting curd mill--a curd mill is now indispensable to a factory1 and a self-salting one is indispensable where only one man is employed2 rubber mop1 curd broom and floor broom2 milk book for keeping accurate account of all business transacted in the establishment1 including daily receipts of milk from patrons2 a set of glass tubes in a case1 for testing milk as to the amount of cream it contains and comparing its state of maturity2 two water pails and one curd pail2 a heavy curd scoop2 two dippers1 one of three and the other of six quarts capacity2 glass graduated jar and lactometer for testing milk to locate water--be sure and purchase a lactometer gauged for trying milk at #hj ,fahrenheit1 many being gauged for #fj ,fahrenheit1 and of little use in hot weather unless you have ice handy to chill the milk designed for the test2 stencils1 case and brush for dating cheese and branding boxes2 tin funnel for conveying whey from the vat to the outside tank2 curd rake for agitating the product when cooking2 a cheese tryer2 a curd sink is not now strictly essential1 although some makers still prefer to use one4 ,in glancing over the above list we will mention some of the articles that can be supplemented by utensils of a more primitive and cheaper make4 ,such a retrograde change is not1 however1 desirable1 although sometimes in a small factory where the receipts to the manufacturer are limited1 strict economy has to be practiced in order to leave a margin of profit4 ,with economists of necessity the boiler can be discarded and an old-fashioned under-heater vat1 with a hot water tank attached1 made to do service4 ,i know of dozens of small factories throughout ,central ,new ,york who get along admirably with such apparatus4 ,in the matter of press and hoops you can do better without the gang press than you can without the patent hoops4 ,remember that it is no economy to go back to the primitive hoop that makes necessary the hand bandaging of every cheese4 ,if obliged to go without the gang press1 get hoops that can be bandaged before the curd is put in them1 so that two cheese can be pressed under one screw in an old-fashioned press4 ,in such a case wooden followers would be required4 ,one pair of scales can be got along with at a pinch1 although two pairs would save a great deal of transferring and extra work4 ,do not get along with one curd knife--you need both the horizontal and the perpendicular1 in order to cut the raw curd evenly and economically4 ,a crane can take the place of a large wheel for hoisting milk if you consider it more convenient4 ,keep rennet in nothing but stone jars or vessels and keep at least ten gallons always prepared ahead4 ,jugs are often used for annottoine1 although an open jar admits of easy dipping and accurate measurement4 ,have your tinner make you a long1 narrow gill cup1 to which should be soldered an upright six-inch handle with a shepherd's crook in the end4 ,use the cup for measuring out the coloring2 the long handle1 which can be hung by the crook on the inside of the jar1 precludes soiling the hands1 clothing and floor with the scarlet dye4 ,a curd mill of some sort is positively necessary in order to facilitate good1 even stock2 do not leave one out of the list of apparati under any consideration4 ,i prefer a self-salting mill1 not only on account of the ease with which curd can be ground but also for its superior mechanism in thoroughly mixing the salt into the curd as fast as it is torn by the teeth4 ,in grinding curd with a common machine1 the torn shreds quickly re-amalgamate into an almost solid mass that often requires harsh manipulation to separate4 ,then1 again1 the salt being sprinkled by hand over the outer surface of the freshly-torn curd sears and burns it before it can be worked into the mass4 ,with a self-salter1 the saline condiment is equally distributed through all parts at the proper limit of acid formation1 thus preventing the curd from packing solidly and making the quality even and fine4 ,,manufacture ,,of ,,cheese4 ,,coagulation ,,of ,,milk4 ,if the milk you have in your vat is mature1 or1 in other words1 slightly tending toward sour1 heat it as rapidly as possible when preparing for the application of rennet4 ,in the cool extremes of the season heat milk to #hf ,fahrenheit and in warm weather to #he before rennet is applied4 ,if the milk is all right as to sweetness1 as the bulk of milk is1 heat it up to the desired point gradually1 stirring it gently at frequent intervals with a long-handled dipper4 ,you stir for the purpose of keeping down the cream and evenly distributing the warmth that is permeating the lacteal mass4 ,you stir it with great gentleness and care because milk globules are eggs in miniature1 and1 like their large relatives of biped production1 they must be handled with care4 ,if you wish to heat to #he and have an under-heater vat or fire flue beneath the milk1 withdraw the fire before it has quite reached that point1 as the after warmth will carry it up a degree or two4 ,be perfectly precise in all such little points1 for on them hinge big results4 ,with milk in normal condition as to maturity1 standing at a temperature of #he in both ends of the vat1 and with no cream visible on the surface1 you are ready to take another step in the course of manufacture4 ,if colored cheese are desired1 now apply annottoine sufficient to give a rich1 golden hue4 ,know exactly by experiment its strength as a dye1 always know the quantity of milk to a pound and portion out accordingly4 ,work the coloring into the fluid with the same gentleness with which you have heretofore manipulated it while raising the temperature4 ,when the milk is all of one even1 yellow tinge1 attesting that the annotto is represented equally in every part1 it is ready for the real inceptor of cheese1 rennet4 ,the tendency of modern cheese making is toward quick coagulation of milk4 ,the larger infusion of rennet necessary for this purpose begets cheese that can be quickly cured for a market where they are expected to be soon consumed4 ,the old rule of coagulation in twenty minutes is now nearly obsolete1 although it will always hold good for cheese of long keeping qualities4 ,fall made cheese that are expected to be consumed during the winter months should be strengthened for age by coagulation in from fifteen to eighteen minutes4 ,when we are dealing with the average spring and summer make1 trade demands more perishable stock and we must cater to it4 ,if you do not know the strength of your rennet and you want the milk to thicken in eight or nine minutes1 as it should do1 previously test the lactic juice by putting a teaspoonful into a tumbler of milk kept warm at #he4 ,if the glass of fluid thickens in five minutes1 you need one quart of such rennet juice for every #hjj pounds of milk to effect coagulation1 as stated above4 ,if the tested quantity thickens in less or longer time1 a proportionate less or greater amount is required for your purpose4 ,measure the rennet extract with exactness1 so that there will be no miss in its proper adjustment to the milk1 and then incorporate it into the vat of lacteal fluid4 ,in infusing it into the milk structure1 manipulate your dipper with the same caution that has characterized your former attitude toward the fragilely constructed fluid under your hand4 ,after stirring for five minutes1 withdraw the dipper and let the surface of the milk come to a calm4 ,then pass the bottom of the empty dipper lightly over the vat to drive back any particles of cream that may be struggling to the surface4 ,the milk will soon begin to roll up in the wake of the tin utensil in your hand in a rapidly thickening wave4 ,immediately withdraw the dipper1 for the rennet has accomplished its mission4 ,turning to your vat cover1 stretch it tightly over the fermenting milk4 ,the cover mentioned should consist of a strip of canvas cloth or sheeting running the entire length of the vat and lapping slightly over its width4 ,the cloth should be tacked to lath or other light wooden strips the width of the vat1 and these supports should be about two feet apart4 ,when not in use1 the cover can be rolled up like a section of carpeting and is not at all awkward to handle4 ,place the cover in a closed form on one end of the vat1 and1 unrolling it as fast as you walk1 you can stretch it to the other end in half a minute1 thus keeping your milk snug and close4 ,i prefer to use such a cover every day during the season1 and they are indispensable in spring and fall4 ,without some such device the crust of the rapidly forming curd is chilled1 retarding the action of the rennet1 and the temperature of the whole mass is perceptibly lowered1 which is not only undesirable but positively detrimental to the natural and perfect formation of cheese4 ,in the course of twenty or thirty minutes after coagulation examine your crude cheese material and see if it is ready to cut up4 ,thrust the forefinger into the mass1 and if the curd will split cleanly in front of it1 it is ready for the knives4 ,milk should stand about forty-five minutes after the infusion of rennet before it is cut1 but if the milk is very mature in quality rennet will act on the caseine more spontaneously4 ,it may be firm enough to cut before that time2 if1 in such a case1 the same amount of rennet had previously acted slowly on a proportionate quantity of milk1 you can at once consider the quick action as a fair warning from nature that you must scald your curd in haste to keep ahead of the swiftly multiplying acid germs4 ,as previously stated1 as soon as the curd mass will cleave brittlely over the finger prepare your knives4 ,first pick up the one with horizontal blade and hold it a second in hot water4 ,this will warm the steel so that it will not chill the curd4 ,cut the mass lengthwise1 turning corners deftly without lifting the instrument once until you are through4 ,then lay this knife aside for its work is done4 ,insert the perpendicular knife also in hot water and with it cut the curd first crosswise1 then lengthwise1 then crosswise again1 being sure to lap over the course of each cut4 ,the curd is now in small cubes that are fast discharging whey from their severed cellular system4 ,they gravitate toward the bottom of the vat4 ,if the curd has been cleft by the blades1 gently and with great care1 the rising whey has a clear1 greenish cast1 attesting that it is freed from most of the albuminous substances of the milk and will render a good ratio to the patrons4 ,,scalding4 ,if the milk was mature1 or too much rennet was incorporated with perfectly sweet milk1 the whey will separate from the solids very rapidly4 ,in either case it wants an immediate application of heat after cutting4 ,curd from fairly good milk1 with a proper infusion of rennet1 should stand for a few moments after cutting before heat is turned on4 ,never apply heat under any circumstances until the raw curd has all disappeared beneath the whey's surface4 ,as soon as the heat has warmed the bottom of the vat1 bare your arms and with the hands gently lift the new cut mass to the surface4 ,in this lifting give it a rolling motion1 so that the cubes will all fall apart and exchange positions with one another4 ,two dangers now arise and you must be prepared to steer straight between them4 ,first1 as the heat comes surging up from beneath against the tin bottom of the vat it makes it very hot below and cool on top4 ,if the raw curd settles but a moment against the hot bottom it is liable to be blistered and seared over1 to the subsequent detriment of the whole mass4 ,of course1 it needs a slow application of heat on the start and almost constant agitation1 and here comes danger number two4 ,if you do not stir your curd sufficiently in heating1 the quality of your goods is at stake1 and if you do not stir judiciously1 or stir too often and too harshly1 your milk ratio is in jeopardy4 ,by exercising good judgment1 care and caution you can avoid the two extremes and make each danger your willing servant4 ,if your milk on the start is sweet and pure1 allow the heat to go up slowly until it touches the desired point4 ,if1 on the other hand1 it is ripe1 old or sour1 push the heat with all vigor and scald as quickly as possible4 ,with milk all right1 about three-fourths of an hour's time should be consumed in bringing up the heat to the scalding limit1 but if otherwise get it there in fifteen minutes or half an hour1 according to the exigency of the case4 ,but1 to return to the subject of scalding a vat of curd in normal condition4 ,on the start1 using your hands as described1 manipulate it with such care that the tender cubes are not bruised and yet are kept separate enough so that they will not form into a compact mass on the warm bottom4 ,all this time the whey is percolating from the blocks and they are shrinking in size and becoming of tougher texture4 ,as soon as the curd begins to assume a slightly elastic consistency begin operations with a rake4 ,if you have an idea that curd wants to be stirred all of the time through the scalding period1 at once disabuse your mind of it4 ,such a notion is antediluvian in its conception and disastrous in its results1 but1 strange to say1 it is the predominating feature of the know-it-all young maker's knowledge4 ,novices at the business are sure to stir too often and too violently4 ,this knocks off the yield and also injures the quality of the cheese4 ,for myself1 above all patent devices in the shape of wire rakes for agitating curd1 ,i prefer a simple wooden hand hay rake4 ,get one made of wood throughout and saw off the handle1 leaving the stub about four feet long2 this will insure convenient handling4 ,when the moment arrives in the early cooking departure to use the rake1 take the utensil described and1 inserting it teeth up in the whey and curd midway of the vat at one end1 push it gently from you to within two inches of the farther edge1 letting the back of the rake head slide on the bottom of the vat4 ,be sure and do not let the teeth and head of the agitator hit the side of the vat1 as curd is pushed before it which does not want the substance and nutriment crushed out of it that way4 ,as the rake approaches the side of the vat give it an easy1 undulating1 upward swing1 ending by a draw of the rake toward you4 ,this will cause the curd that you have been pushing from you along the bottom of the vat to boil up with the whey in the wake of the retreating rake4 ,if the motion has been gone through with easily and carefully1 you will at once see that the curd within the rake's sweep has been thoroughly agitated without bruising4 ,after the manoeuvre described1 do not change position but drawing the rake toward you1 with its head scraping the bottom of the vat1 produce a gentle ebullition of curd and whey in the same way as that just manifested4 ,step along1 repeating the pushing and drawing of the rake until the farther end of the vat is reached4 ,then1 push the curd with the rake up on one side and down on the other of the vat1 changing ends1 as it were1 with the cooking cheese4 ,once over a vat in this way1 if accomplished properly1 thoroughly separates the curd particles and evens up the heat through the whole mass4 ,now1 let the rake rest but have the heat go on for a few moments4 ,when the curd begins to pack slightly 7perhaps in five minutes1 more or less1 according to the previous maturity of the milk71 again stir it up in the manner described and again let it rest1 repeating the periods of agitation until it is scalded up to the desired temperature4 ,in regard to the right temperature at which to scald cheese we cannot hope to give on paper much more than superficial information4 ,every phase of cheese making1 to be thoroughly understood1 requires practical experience1 but hints and pointers on paper are often just what are needed to help puzzled ones out of awkward dilemmas encountered in the business4 ,hence1 we shall1 in the most clear and logical manner possible1 give the reader our views1 derived from experience1 on scalding temperature4 ,,right ,,temperature4 ,in the spring of the year1 hay produced milk is comparatively poor and thin4 ,when it reaches the manufacturer's hands it is generally as sweet as a rose in regard to acid1 although not always so in regard to stable tang4 ,when it has been transformed into curd it must be scalded high enough to cook it1 whether that takes a temperature of #ih1 #ajj or #aaj ,fahrenheit4 ,don't think1 as some do1 that the curd is cooked when it has reached the temperature you are using--generally it is not more than half cooked then4 ,we will say you began making cheese on the first day of ,april4 ,you are not an expert at the business and1 being anxious to make a good beginning1 feel a trifle nervous over the situation4 ,keep cool and bring the temperature of the curd up to #ajj4 ,on reaching this heat immediately cover up the vat with the carpet-like canopy previously described4 ,be sure and give it a thorough rake stirring the last thing on reaching the scalding point4 ,if the make-room is reasonably warm the canvas roof will keep the whey at a mercurial heat of #ajj for a long while4 ,after a few minutes examine the curd and see how it is progressing4 ,stir it up occasionally--once in fifteen minutes or so is sufficient--and after it has stood an hour and a half at #ajj1 if it does not squeak sharply between the teeth when chewed or immediately fall apart when squeezed dry of whey in a double-handful1 you may be assured that #ajj was too low a temperature at which to cook it4 ,the object is to cook at the lowest temperature which will do the business within a reasonable time4 ,the higher the temperature used1 the quicker it will be cooked1 but it will require more milk to make a pound of cheese4 ,a good yield and a good quality must both be gotten out of the milk--these are fine points in cheese making4 ,the curd we have spoken of has stood in the whey at #ajj degrees for one hour and a half and is yet insufficiently cooked4 ,an hour longer at the same temperature would probably cook it to the right degree1 but there are objections to letting curd stand in the whey so long--it gets whey soaked and begins to disintegrate slightly1 even when no acid is perceptible4 ,so1 after a ninety minute test1 7or1 better yet1 before71 raise the temperature two1 four1 six or ten degrees1 as your judgment warrants1 and bring it to a firm consistency as quickly as possible4 ,we are now supposed to be working spring or fall milk that is obstinately sweet and very hard to cook4 ,in summer or warm weather1 milk is1 of course1 mature2 this aids and hastens the cooking process while sweetness retards it4 ,in cool weather and with good milk1 having found that a minimum of #ajj will not cook the curd after standing at that temperature an hour and a half1 fix your standard higher and bring it within the rule prescribed4 ,be sure that your curd is thoroughly cooked4 ,thousands of boxes of weak1 half raw cheese are thrown on the market every spring that are deficient in quality through a lack of heat in the vat4 ,the most convenient and sure test of which ,i am aware1 to tell that the curd is 8done10 so to speak1 is to grasp a large double-handful and compress it dry of whey2 if it quickly1 after pressure is withdrawn1 falls easily apart on the palm of the outstretched hand1 you may be sure that your curd is thoroughly cooked in every way4 ,now we come to acid4 ,,acid4 ,acid microbes are inherent in the lacteal structure and come dormant in the milk from the udder4 ,as soon as they feel the atmosphere they spring into spontaneous activity1 however retarded by cold or fostered by heat4 ,acid in milk is a species of yeast fermentation and is the first step toward decomposition4 ,it is the best servant the cheese maker has and is also his worst enemy when the relation is changed to that of master4 ,in a temperate climate1 in hay produced milk1 in the spring of the year1 acid is nearly dormant and there is but little use for it4 ,hay cheese are expected to be thrown on the market in cool weather when they will be quickly consumed2 therefore1 the additional firmness given by acid is not required to be applied as a safeguard against heat4 ,if early hay cheese are cooked enough and salted about two pounds to the thousand1 it is all that is desirable4 ,on the border between hay and grass the weather is gradually moderating and there is torrid temperature in sight in the immediate future4 ,acid now begins to appear in the whey and curd you are working by the time you have it scalded4 ,it has a right to be there for it is your friend and you now need its timely proffered assistance4 ,if1 through unusually good quality of milk1 it does not come to the front1 coax it a little in the following way3 ,after the curd is cooked and before whey is drawn1 turn on steam and re-warm the whole mass1 then draw the whey and pack the curd in bulk as much as possible1 covering it up with a cloth4 ,this will soon set the acid to working in good shape4 ,always rely on the hot iron test to locate acid4 ,it takes an expert to get the amount of acid even from mess to mess by an olfactory measurement4 ,on ,march and the first half of ,april stock ,i do not care for any acid to show1 but on later ,april and beginning of ,may goods acid should show on the hot iron clearly and perceptibly4 ,when the curd is pressed to the metal1 fine strings should just start from it immediately prior to salting4 ,at this time you want just a little acid but not too much--too much will surely spoil spring made cheese4 ,the question arises1 8,how far must a cheese maker probe into the hidden mysteries that shroud the digestive assimilation of the product he manufactures80 ,we answer that he cannot probe too deeply or extend his researches too far into the minute4 ,there are too many makers now with only a superficial knowledge of their craft1 and before there can be any perceptible elevation of quality in ,american cheese the shoes of these novices must be filled by such men as we now term 8experts40 ,take1 for example1 the subject of acid which we are here discussing4 ,a maker who can perceive it only as it is revealed by stringing on the iron is not competent to be in charge of a factory1 for anybody could detect it there4 ,the development of lactic acid is a species of fermentation induced by the spontaneous increase of inherent minute bacteria4 ,it takes the same experience to perceive and govern it in milk and cheese as it does practice with square and compass to become a carpenter4 ,we cannot tell you all about it--it will take many days of careful observation and fine testing to understand its nature enough to make it your servant in the cheese making art4 ,that is why makers without practical experience are always incompetent4 ,hold curd in the whey until it shows at least a quarter of an inch of acid by the hot iron and then draw off whey as quickly as possible4 ,it is always a good plan where you have large vats and they are pretty well filled to have a third of the whey drawn off before acid develops1 for then you can more quickly lay bare your curd4 ,as the whey recedes1 push the curd with the rake head toward the upper end of the vat and then tip the vat down1 so that the whey will flow out from the lowest corner4 ,make a gutter with your hands through the center of the curd mass and distribute it in an even pack on each side of the vat4 ,now1 take a knife and cut it into strips eight inches wide1 drawing the knife from the center gutter toward the side of the vat4 ,flop these strips upside down and1 to farther facilitate drainage1 cut a longitudinal canal next to the sides of the vat4 ,examine by the iron and see how the curd is working as to acid2 if it is maturing slowly and the curd is not hot1 shut off all draughts of air1 cut the curd into 8bricks0 or blocks the size of a brick1 and scatter them over the bottom of the vat4 ,then cover the vat up with the same cloth that you used when scalding4 ,if1 on the other hand1 the curd is hot and maturing rapidly1 cut into small bricks1 scatter well and give it all the air possible1 frequently turning the bricks over4 ,unless positively unavoidable on account of overplus of acid never grind curd until you have cooled it down to a temperature of #hj4 ,above that heat the fine texture of the curd is torn and mutilated so that it will give out white whey1 and1 as a consequence1 waste of quality and substance ensues4 ,the curd being first well drained and cooled to #hj by subdivision of pieces and having also developed acid sufficient for the season1 it is ready for the mill4 ,grind with deliberation1 and if you have a self-salter1 so much the better4 ,incorporate the salt into the curd by thorough1 although not violent1 mixing and then air your curd4 ,this is one of the most important processes of all and yet the one most neglected by negligent makers4 ,a curd requires airing1 not so much to expel heat as to expunge the gaseous odors that have followed it down from its animal origin4 ,stir it well at frequent intervals and spread it out well over the surface of the vat4 ,so calculate that it can lay twenty minutes or half an hour before it has sunk to the temperature of #gj1 when it is just right for the hoops4 ,allowing it to lay this length of time gives the salt an opportunity to strike into the pores and impregnate the product with its saline properties before being put under pressure4 ,,hooping ,,curd4 ,on placing curd in the hoop measure it all in a pail and then you will get the cheese of nearly an exact weight4 ,when spreading on the cap cloth wring it out of warm water1 that last thing stirring up the surface curd from below1 so that there will be warmth to form a good rind4 ,apply the pressure slowly at first1 and as soon as the whey starts from the hoops with a 8gush10 desist and let them rest for a few moments4 ,the reason for this is to retain the salt and not expel it with the whey by an injudicious display of strength4 ,you have1 perhaps1 considered two pounds or two and a half of salt per #a1jjj pounds of milk just right for the curd and the season of the year1 and it would be most unwise and foolish to let it dribble away to the detriment of the product4 ,as soon as the whey ceases to start freely come down snugly on them with the lever and then turn your attention to washing up the vat and utensils4 ,,cleaning ,,tin ,,utensils4 ,this part of a maker's duties has an important bearing on cheese manufacture1 for if he is a sloven it does but little good for patrons to strive to furnish him with pure1 sweet milk4 ,wash the vat and utensils through two waters and scald with that which is boiling4 ,the vat and all utensils should be scoured at least once a week with salt1 to prevent the propagation of a yellow and white fungus growth that is a persistent parasite of factories4 ,milk strainers should be hung out where the bright sunshine can reach them1 and all the windows and outside doors to the make-room should be opened1 to drive out the dampness that has accumulated during the forepart of the day4 ,,pulling ,,up ,,the ,,bandage ,,cloth4 ,in from fifteen to twenty minutes after hooping curd turn your attention to them again4 ,if the old style hoops are used you will be obliged to bandage them by hand2 if not1 to pull up the bandage cloth4 ,as the former way is nearly obsolete1 we will simply discuss the modus operandi of the latter4 ,set a pailful of clean warm water near you1 and as you remove the cap cloths rinse them vigorously in this1 to wash out all sour whey4 ,pull the margin of the bandage up and turn it neatly over the edge of the cheese2 then1 wringing the cap slightly1 to remove only the surplus water1 spread it over the surface1 smoothing out all wrinkles4 ,apply1 now1 all the power that you have1 that is1 reasonable power4 ,you do not want to press so hard that the butter will be crushed out of the cheese structure1 but you want to press so as to expel all whey and permanently solidify the cheese4 ,i examined #ahhh made cheese this spring that were of fine quality but insufficiently pressed4 ,the seams and cracks were mouldy and damp with whey1 which damaged an otherwise fancy product #ej per cent4 ,,cleaning ,,up4 ,cleaning up is the last duty of the cheese maker for the day4 ,i use hot water freely on any portion of the floor with which whey has come in contact1 and especially should it be used about the spouts and drains1 for it is here that filth lurks and easily conceals itself4 ,boiling water will search it out and eradicate it2 dash it on copiously all around4 ,sal-soda and potash are helpful aids to keep the make-room sweet1 and a liberal supply should be counted among the necessities of every factory4 ,,the ,,curing ,,room4 ,it is just as easy to have a model curing room as one that is defective in structure4 ,a cheese may be turned out of the hoop the acme of perfection in every detail of manufacture1 and yet subsequently be damaged partly or wholly ruined by inhabiting a faulty curing apartment4 ,the curing room should not be in a loft1 or above the make-room4 ,it should be on the ground floor1 and for convenience it should open direct from the make-room1 the door being easy of access to the press4 ,the partition between the two rooms must be impervious to the steam arising from the cheese vats1 as the animal vapor is detrimental to the maturing product on the shelves4 ,the room should by all means be plastered1 and have windows that can be lowered from the top when necessary for proper ventilation4 ,in these times when cheese are frequently shipped when only ten days from the hoop1 a large curing room is not necessary even for a large factory4 ,the smaller you can have it without crowding1 the better4 ,if you want a room that will hold #cjj cheese1 lay shelves #b feet above the floor that will accommodate #ajj1 put in stout uprights #g feet high1 and on cross pieces above lay two more tiers of shelves of the same surface capacity as the bottom counter4 ,when it is finished you have three tiers of shelves encircling the room1 save for two doors1 with space left in the center for a box stove4 ,the object of arranging shelves one above another is not so much to utilize space as it is to scientifically cure the product4 ,it1 however1 answers for both purposes4 ,in a room1 temperature rises with height1 and the atmosphere is1 of course1 several degrees warmer near the ceiling than in the region of the floor4 ,hang a reliable thermometer on a range with the second tier of shelves1 in a portion of the room where it will not be affected by direct heat from the stove4 ,in this position the mercury should range from #fe to #gj ,fahrenheit1 the temperature on the top shelf at the same time rising to the vicinity of #ge ,fahrenheit4 ,we will be supposed to carry a day's make of cheese into such a room when it is empty4 ,place them all on the top shelf in regular order1 two deep4 ,continue to add from day to day until the top shelf is completely filled all around4 ,then begin at the end where you first started1 and take down the first day's make and place on the second shelf1 arranging those fresh from the hoop in their place4 ,continue this process all around until the second tier is filled4 ,your next move will necessitate two removals1 leaving the oldest on the bottom tier and the greenest on top4 ,as soon as a cheese leaves the hoop a certain warmth of atmosphere is necessary to assist the process of fermentation that should at once begin4 ,if this warmth is lacking green cheese will sour on the shelves before they can cure4 ,therefore1 always place them in the most favorable position for assistance in the direction of maturity that you have at command4 ,,care ,,of ,,cheese4 ,take cheese from the hoops after they have been under pressure about eighteen hours4 ,if they have been properly made and thoroughly cooked1 and the cap cloths are sweet and clean1 the latter will peel from the ends without making an abrasion of the rind4 ,allow them to stand an hour or so on the shelves before greasing2 the surface moisture will then have evaporated1 and the rinds will deepen to a golden color and become crisp and slightly rough under the touch4 ,heat whey butter as hot as you can bear your hand in it1 and1 using a large piece of bandage cloth 7no other cloth is as good71 dip it in the hot grease and apply by a thorough rubbing-in to the cheese surface4 ,the butter being hot will strike in and lend toughness and elasticity to the rind4 ,date the cheese after they have been on the shelves a day4 ,the bandage cloth will then have become dry1 and the dates can be made to show clear and distinct4 ,turn cheese over every day and rub them thoroughly with a sponge of bandage cloth1 well oiled4 ,dealers1 retailers and consumers insist on a good1 perfect rind1 and1 as makers1 we must give it to them4 ,appearance sometimes goes farther than quality1 but we want both1 and want them united4 ,sometimes cheese will mould on the sides during damp1 muggy weather in summer4 ,it will not do to drive out the dampness with fire1 so establish a free circulation of air through the room and the mould will cease to accumulate4 ,in a curing room it is easier to keep temperature where you want it during cool than in hot weather4 ,if the mercury gets to running up above #ge ,fahrenheit1 sprinkle the floor vigorously with cold water1 take out the window sashes1 and on the south side keep the blinds closed1 or a shade down4 ,good cheese can endure a temperature of #hj for a while without deteriorating1 but such a heat is not desirable2 keep it below that if possible during a hot wave4 ,the shelves on which the cheese rest should be of sound lumber1 smoothly planed basswood or pine1 and each board a little wider than the diameter of the cheese4 ,care should be taken to have the bandages the exact circumference of the inside of the hoop4 ,if the band is contracted1 the cloth will split open under pressure and expose the cheese to the attack of skipper flies2 if too large1 the cheese will expand on the shelf and make it difficult to be jammed into a box for shipment4 ,the reason the curing room should not be over the make apartment1 or in a loft1 is that in the former the vapor and odors generated below are not desirable curing factors1 and in both cases excessive heat is unavoidable1 due to the elevation and the direct rays of the sun on the roof4 ,when cheese get so warmed up that the butter starts1 the flavor is deteriorating also4 ,while curing1 cheese need ventilation1 draughts of air should be avoided1 as thereby the surfaces are dried up and checked4 ,too much light is not desirable in a curing room2 shades should be used at the windows to regulate this4 ,it is now customary to ship cheese as soon as they cease to be curdy1 which occurs in from ten to fifteen days from the hoop4 ,,experienced ,,help4 ,one great set-back to good cheese making is inexperienced and careless labor4 ,this is another cog in the wheel that has been retrograding the reputation of our goods during the last few years4 ,a medical student cannot obtain a diploma authorizing him to take under his charge the welfare of the sick without three years' study aided by ocular demonstrations of his especial science4 ,then1 he is expected not to have a dim idea of a patient's condition when diagnosing his case1 but to know and understand all about it4 ,no cheese maker is fit for duty unless he can diagnose the condition of a vat of milk on a quick examination4 ,the natural odor of pure milk has a peculiar animal smell1 whose nature can be acquired by careful olfactory tests indulged in as the student draws the fluid from the cow's teats4 ,after an apprentice at the business can tell pure1 sweet1 untainted milk in any spot or place1 he must learn to distinguish between that which is tainted and that which is verging on the sour4 ,tainted milk is radically different from sour milk1 and infused in the product they each tend toward utterly diverse results4 ,to pass a correct judgment on milk quality is thus essential ,no4 #a in a maker's practical knowledge4 ,requirement ,no4 #b1 is to have a thorough understanding of the constituents and influence of all of the foreign ingredients that go into cheese4 ,rennet1 the most potent auxiliary of the cheese maker's craft1 should never be handled or applied by ignorant hands4 ,the amateur maker should gain a physiological insight into the lactic portion of animal anatomy1 and have an intelligent comprehension of the active force of the peptic secretion4 ,when such knowledge is acquired he will see the importance of never countenancing any coagulating fluid that is not immaculately pure in extraction and free from any subsequent taint4 ,he will also understand its nature enough to always make a judicious application of it to the milk designed for manufacture4 ,here the necessity of step ,no4 #a joining hands with ,no4 #b is apparent1 for he cannot make a judicious application unless his olfactory sense is trained to perceive and gauge every variation of the milk quality4 ,necessity ,no4 #c1 is in following the quality variation of milk into the cooking and maturing curd4 ,it is a well-known fact with cheese makers that no two vats of curd will scarcely ever work exactly alike in succession4 ,if one is to know absolutely just what to do and what to leave undone at certain moments of assimilation and maturity in curd1 he must have gained that knowledge not from books but from continued practical experience4 ,here the necessity for previous learning arises4 ,no pettifogger would be expected to argue legal points before the ,supreme ,court1 because lack of advancement in the rudiments of his profession would make him as unfit for such a pleader as a farmer or merchant4 ,every man to his business1 and no man to be trusted in any trade capacity until he has proved himself competent4 ,so1 if an amateur lawyer or doctor is not to be trusted1 why should responsibility be placed on the shoulders of a green hand at cheese making8 ,he is expected to properly prepare an important article of human food1 and1 inexperienced and ignorant of the rudiments of the trade1 he stumbles along in the dark1 doing1 perhaps1 the best that he can1 and not so much to blame for the failures that accrue as are his employers4 ,wide dispersion of training schools for both butter and cheese makers is not far off1 and ,i1 for one1 hail that day with delight4 ,,where ,,our ,,cheese ,,goes ,,to4 ,after contemplating the immensity of our annual cheese output1 the question naturally arises1 8,where does it all go to80 ,the earliest shipments of ,american cheese were made from ,new ,york to ,england in #ahce and #ahcf4 ,the beginning was very limited2 shipments of cheese were made in casks2 #fj1jjj would probably comprise the value of all shipments made in those years4 ,as ,england still remains our principal foreign customer1 we will come down to the year #ahhb and give the official figures of the port of ,new ,york of the annual receipts and exports4 ,we do not mean to intimate that ,england takes all of our exports1 but she absorbs the major portion of them4 ,year4 ,receipts4 ,exports4 ,receipts of ,cheese in ,new ,york1 #ahhb1 #b1cej1eei #a1hih1aib 0 0 0 #ahhc1 #b1def1bcb #a1ieg1ifg 0 0 0 #ahhd1 #b1djg1eej #a1icb1gjb 0 0 0 #ahhe1 #b1abb1ahg #a1feh1fif 0 0 0 #ahhf1 #a1idc1bfj #a1ege1bfb 0 0 0 #ahhg1 #a1iid1heg #a1dej1iee 0 0 0 #ahhh1 #a1iic1dfb ,the #ahhh export is not recorded yet4 ,it is hard to get at the home trade quantity used throughout the country4 ,there are many cheese distributed from factories to neighboring towns in ,ohio1 ,wisconsin1 ,michigan and other states of which no account is kept1 and there are no statistics covering the entire make1 but at a guess we should say it was about #d1jjj1jjj boxes annually4 ,the cause of decline in receipts at the port of ,new ,york since #ahhb1 is largely due to the fact that a good many cheese made in the northern part of this ,state 7,n4 ,y47 are bought by ,canadians and shipped via ,montreal4 ,it is said that ,englishmen eat twelve pounds of cheese per capita a year1 while ,americans eat three pounds4 ,cheese consumption is1 however1 on the increase here1 as the healthy and nutritive qualities of the product are more and more appreciated4 ,one of the most serious drawbacks to universal cheese consumption is the large profits exacted by middlemen when they dispense it to the public4 ,if cheese could be had at the grocery for #i or #aj cents per pound instead of #ad or #ae cents1 it would be found in abundance on the poor man's table1 and a heavy decrease in the export trade would result4 ,we believe that such a time is coming1 and with it will come a vast improvement in the average quality of the national make4 ,this is not a mere speculation1 but a distinctive pointer of the times1 and its verification is already at hand4 ,thirty-five years ago the innovation of the cheddar process gave cheese quality its first great advance4 ,that advance remains yet to be perfected in detail1 and then a cheese millennium will reign4 ,,moisture ,,in ,,cheese4 ,one of the most essential points in determining the quality of a cheese is the amount of moisture it contains4 ,a proper retention of moisture by the product in a cured state depends primarily on the rennet that separated it from the watery serum of milk1 and secondly on the amount of heat applied in cooking1 and the quantity of salt afterwards added4 ,to adjust all these little niceties to a minimum of fine1 even quality of which moisture is an adjunct1 requires experience and long familiarity with the handling and treatment of milk4 ,butter1 moisture and caseine should exist in about equal parts to make a mellow cheese1 and1 to fix the proportion rightly1 enough rennet should be incorporated into the milk to expel all excess of moisture1 and yet leave enough to withstand the effect of a heat judiciously gauged to cook it4 ,thus1 rennet influences moisture on the start1 and other forces afterward are introduced that either aid or retard it4 ,when rennet diffuses itself through milk its power and potency are largely measured by the temperature of the fluid body surrounding it4 ,as cheese making is merely an imitation of nature's workings in curdling milk in a calf's stomach1 the nearer we can follow that process on the start1 the closer to perfection we get4 ,long experience has demonstrated that a temperature between #hj and #he ,fahrenheit is the best degree of warmth for milk to have attained when it receives the peptic fluid4 ,a temperature above that expels the butter globules into the whey1 and below1 the active principle of rennet is not brought out and tardily and incompletely coagulates the mild solids4 ,by afterward applying the lowest degree of heat that will cook it within a reasonable time to a consistency of contraction and expansion1 the moisture still remains in proper proportion4 ,a few degrees of excess heat will produce a dry1 hard curd1 and a future dry1 hard cheese4 ,judgment1 discretion1 and experience are necessary in applying salt to retain moisture4 ,salt itself is1 of course1 a moisture retainer1 but a too heavy application hardens and stiffens the cheese structure and retards the curing of the product4 ,never salt more than enough to give and retain flavor and preserve quality4 ,if the points we have given above have all been observed1 then the proper proportion of moisture in cheese will be assured4 ,prominent ,english cheese judges have passed verdicts on fine cheese in the following words3 8,we want cheese rich1 solid1 fine flavored1 true colored1 that is1 of an even color throughout1 sound1 handsome1 that will go on to improve for twelve months or longer if desired40 8,a good cheese is close and firm in texture1 yet mellow2 in character or quality it is rich with a tendency to melt in the mouth2 the flavor full and fine1 apparently that of a hazel-nut40 8,the characteristics of a good cheese are mellow and rich in taste and flavor1 and firm and full in texture1 solid but not tough40 8,a good cheese is rich without being greasy1 with a sweet1 nutty flavor1 clear and equal color throughout1 and of a compact1 solid texture1 without being waxy2 firm1 and yet melts easily in the mouth1 leaving no rough or ill-flavor on the palate40 ,the ,english conception of peerless cheese is ours1 too1 and we must continue to grind away on the road of improvement until we bring the united product to the standard of unimpeachable quality and uniformity4 ,,rule ,,for ,,making ,,out ,,dividends4 ,many makers are now expected to figure out the milk dividends for the patrons1 and issue fortnightly statements4 ,a quick1 easy rule to follow in doing this business1 is to first foot up each patron's milk for the number of days' delivery in one or two sales1 as the case may be1 draw a line across the page of the factory account book opposite the date sold up to1 and1 as you add each man's milk1 set the amount down opposite his name on the tally slate4 ,after you have summed it all up1 go over it again1 adding from the top of the columns downward4 ,this will correct any mistakes you may have made4 ,next1 add the separate sums of milk together into one grand total and1 using this united sum for a dividend1 take the number of pounds of cheese in the sale or sales for a divisor1 and the quotient will be the ratio or the number of pounds of milk it has taken to make a pound of cheese4 ,then1 multiply the number of pounds of cheese by the price per #ajj pounds you get for making1 and deduct the product from the full cash amount that the cheese has brought4 ,the residue money divide up proportionately among the patrons as follows3 ,using the grand total of milk for a divisor1 see how many times it is contained in the money1 minus cost of making4 ,the quotient will be the net price of one hundred pounds of milk4 ,multiply each patron's separate amount of milk by this price per hundred pounds1 and the product will be the net monied income on that sale or sales for the patron4 ,in getting the price of a pound of milk it is seldom necessary to carry decimally beyond mills4 ,in a measure1 the work all proves itself1 for1 if1 by adding together the face value of each patron's check1 the amount does not agree with the cheese returns1 less making1 your figuring will need a review4 ,it is customary now to send out with each check a statement demonstrating and setting forth just how the factory business is running4 ,thus1 each patron becomes a critic of the secretary4 ,i append a statement properly filled out3 ,,sale ,,statement4 ,plainfield1 ,n4 ,y41 ,june #bj1 #ahhi4 ,e4 ,w4 ,,wright',s ,,cheese ,,factory4 ,,in ,,account ,,with ,,mr4 ,,john ,,williams4 ,sold from ,may #adth to #bith4 ,no4 ,boxes1 #afh ,total ,milk1 #fi1ggi ,total ,cheese1 #g1jbf ,price per pound1 #c1dcd #h-;c4 #c1eib #h-;c4 ,ratio1 #i4ic ,net price per #ajj pounds ,milk1 #ga4c ,your ,milk1 #h1ccf ,amount less making1 #ei4dc ,,the ,,whey ,,vat4 ,the whey vat may be regarded as a necessary evil1 but with means at hand to relieve ourselves of some of its putrefactive characteristics4 ,we trust that the day for having this swill tub harnessed to the factory will soon be an item of the shady past4 ,whey is all right in its place1 but its place1 as soon as it is drained from the curd1 is a long distance from the factory building4 ,i would place the whey vat ten rods away from the factory1 and if night delivery of milk was the rule1 ,i would move it twenty rods off4 ,get it at least beyond contaminating distance1 and then have the whey carried to it in open tin troughs4 ,if the troughs are thoroughly painted you need not fear rust1 and as they are of metal they cannot dry up1 warp and leak4 ,have the spouts about the factory perfectly tight so that no whey can fall to the ground1 for it is fearful stuff to generate offensive effluvia4 ,try and keep the whey receptacle as neat and clean as possible4 ,have it roofed1 but open on the sides4 ,skim the cream from it every morning1 and it would be much better if you would churn it fresh instead of keeping it for weeks to be rendered out in a kettle by fire4 ,scrub the vat out every day with a broom2 it will take five minutes' time and a pailful of hot water4 ,make it a rule for each patron to draw away no more than three pails of whey for every hundred pounds of milk delivered4 ,also1 make it a rule to yard nobody's pigs or calves about the premises for convenient whey slopping4 ,insist on it that if your patrons insist on drawing sour whey home in their milk cans they put on extra 8elbow grease0 afterward in cleansing them4 ,a cheese maker hardly likes to make the imputation to patrons that their wives are not neat 7only1 perhaps1 when they are in a great hurry7 about scalding out the sour whey from milk cans1 and yet such insinuations on his part are often necessary4 ,,whys ,,and ,,wherefores4 ,curd is first cut with the horizontal knife1 to facilitate easy expulsion of the whey4 ,cheese is a good edible1 because1 besides being highly nutritive1 the rennet or gastric juice it contains aids digestion and the assimilation of other foods4 ,whey should never be fed to cows1 because1 having once been secreted in their mammillary glands in the form of milk1 it has now taken on the nature of an excrement2 consequently1 a re-secretion would be highly prejudicial to the quality and healthfulness of the product4 ,it was formerly supposed that febrine was exclusively a constituent of animal blood2 but now the theory that slight traces of it in milk induce rennet coagulation is generally accepted as authentic4 ,if a cheese is misshapen1 by uneven pressing or otherwise1 when taken from the hoop1 put it back and press it over again4 ,remember that appearance goes a long way with dealers4 ,do not tolerate any cheese in the room that are deformed4 ,cheese makers should insist that patrons with large messes of milk set their night's yield in two cans1 thoroughly air the fluid1 by stirring or dipping immediately subsequent to milking1 and then dump both portions together in the morning1 so as not to mix night's and morning's milk until it is mixed in common in the cheese vat4 ,if this rule is insisted upon and faithfully observed1 a great deal of damaged milk will be avoided4 ,a quack doctor should as soon be granted a diploma to practice1 as an ignorant apprentice at cheese making be given the responsibility of the manufacture of a vat of milk4 ,the health of the community is in great danger from both frauds4 ,cheese that are surface mottled1 spread the bandage and show a soft1 weak rind1 have been insufficiently cooked4 ,the remedy lies in a more upward tendency of the mercury4 ,the art of cheese making cannot be learned wholly from paper1 because variations of milk quality constantly clash with regular modes of procedure4 ,here the practical experience and sound judgment of the maker must intervene and offset the lacteal variation1 by appropriate changes in the manner of working the product4 ,making good cheese out of poor milk is much talked of by makers and considered quite an accomplishment4 ,it consists in clothing the product in a glamour of deception1 propagating dyspepsia and shielding careless dairymen4 ,skimmed cheese is dry and tasteless and unfit for human food1 because the meat has been extracted1 and the shell left4 ,it should take a back seat on the bench of humiliation beside oleomargarine4 ,when whey sparkles it is sour4 ,when raw curd settles quickly after being cut up1 it is a signal that it is aging rapidly and developing acid4 ,white scum on the whey indicates the presence of acid4 ,butter exuding slightly from the hoops of pressing cheese tells of acid and bespeaks a fine quality of goods4 ,butter exuding in excessive quantity from the hoops is proof that the milk has either been violently shaken up over rough roads or has been set at a very high temperature4 ,you cannot get a good rind on a poor quality of cheese2 you can always have a perfect rind on one of good quality4 ,thus1 in one sense1 the rind indicates the quality4 8,cleanliness is next to godliness0 about a factory1 because1 milk being an animal fluid it is of nitrogenous composition1 and the waste that accrues from it on decomposition becomes the most fetid carrion4 ,buttermilk added to sweet milk in making cheese is a diabolical habit1 the object1 nowadays1 being not to produce cheese from slop but from pure1 wholesome milk alone4 ,airing curds thoroughly after salting is necessary to expel gaseous odors4 ,the improved quality of the cheese will repay every maker for doing it4 ,never cease to agitate the question of only six days' labor in the week for the cheese maker4 ,agitate it1 because ,god has laid it down as a commandment for all mankind1 and nature inexorably exacts from the physical forces every violation of the rule4 ,keep the curing room at an even temperature of from #fe to #gj ,fahrenheit1 because a less amount of heat might sour the green cheese on the shelves and more warmth might cause them to lose butter to the point of off flavor4 ,keep the surface of cheese impervious to fly attacks and you will never be troubled with skippers4 ,never use sour press clothes on cheese1 not only from sense of neatness1 but because the rank acid will check the rind4 ,if you are caught with a soft curd on your hands1 one that has soured so quickly that you have had no opportunity to give it a firm cook1 grind it twice and stir it more than usual4 ,this will reduce pulpy lumps1 add stability to the curd and prevent the cheese from spreading out of shape in the bandage4 ,rennet is the life and soul of cheese1 as much depending on its efficacy as on yeast in bread4 ,excessive heat stifles and kills out its virtue and leaves the cheese structure dead and indigestible4 ,makers should bear this fact in mind and never allow the cooking curd to rest long on the bottom of the vat4 ,the rennet jar should never be covered1 as nothing can be mentioned that is more liable to contract fetid taint than these skins4 ,exclusion of air from the vessel in which they are soaking is extremely liable to spoil them in spite of the salt the liquor contains4 ,in weighing patrons' milk at the factory1 the scales should be balanced down and up weight taken4 ,to the uninitiated this might at first seem an injustice1 but a little experience will soon show that it is imperatively necessary4 ,the dealers to whom the cheese are consigned exact stiff up weight1 and if the same is not taken at the milk delivery window1 woe be to the ratio4 ,as all patrons are served alike in the premises1 no loss or injustice accrues to any one and the maker is in a position to deal as he is being dealt with4 ,pulverize salt thoroughly before sprinkling it over the curd4 ,hard lumps will not dissolve and will produce cauterized spots through the cheese4 ,during the hot weather of summer remember that curd will stand a third more souring1 and yet come down into mellow cheese1 than it would earlier or later in the season4 ,bearing this fact in mind gives a maker mental relief when he has a curd that has the start of him on acid and yet afterward comes out all right1 perhaps making the best cheese in the room4 ,saving curd over to mix in with the next day's cheese is not desirable1 but it is often unavoidable1 as cheese of as even weight as possible are always wanted4 ,take the curd to be saved over and put it in a bag of bandage cloth4 ,mix into it an extra handful of salt1 in order to prevent too much souring1 and hang the sack in a cool1 dry place4 ,the next day1 just prior to drawing the whey1 empty the old curd into the vat and stir it up with the new4 ,there are sometimes extreme cases of butter separation from the cooked caseine4 ,i have seen where butter would settle in the seams and cavities of cheese1 to the almost utter ruination of the product and the distraction of the maker because he could not discern and stop the cause4 ,there are many causes1 some of which are beyond the power of the maker to remedy1 such as churning the milk in drawing it to the factory over stony roads1 etc4 ,but he can prevent too high heat at setting time1 and he can manipulate milk with gentleness before the rennet is added4 ,in consigning cheese to market always put the consignor's name on the side instead of one cover of the box4 ,covers are apt to come off in transit and get mixed with those of other consignments1 entailing much trouble to those concerned4 ,when coagulated milk has reached the right consistency to cut up1 draw the curd knife through it at a moderate speed1 truly and unwaveringly4 ,the cutting behind an experienced hand will expel whey clear and green in color4 ,in this item of procedure let your hand be counted among the experienced4 ,,potent ,,maxims ,,for ,,the ,,cheese ,,maker4 ,keep a perfectly sweet1 clean vat and spotless1 shining apparatus and utensils4 ,make an olfactory test of every mess of milk before it is dumped into the weighing can1 and reject all that is tainted1 unclean or tending toward the sour1 as by the acceptance of such injured milk you damage your own trade reputation1 detract from the dividend of every patron who furnishes perfect milk and irreparably wrong every consumer of the cheese4 ,insist on each one of your patrons straining their milk through a fine cloth strainer of double thickness1 and use the same yourself for it to pass through into the vat4 ,in heating up your milk to a temperature to meet a reception of the rennet1 stir it frequently and gently4 ,never set above #hf ,fahrenheit in spring and fall and #hd in summer4 ,remember that too high heat before setting separates the butter globules from the milk structure and that they are subsequently lost in the whey4 ,use nothing but stone jars for keeping rennet4 ,if a mess of rennet worth1 perhaps1 a dollar should get slightly tainted1 throw it away rather than impregnate it through #bjj worth of cheese and cause serious illness among numerous human beings4 ,use only annottoine cut directly from the seed by the chemical action of potash4 ,the imputation that urine is used in the paste preparation should make every manufacturer shun it with loathing until the vile stigma is disproved4 ,be at least five minutes in stirring the rennet into milk4 ,stir it with great gentleness1 so that the butter globules will not be displaced4 ,curd should stand not less than forty or more than sixty minutes after the application of rennet before cutting1 the variation in time to be governed by season1 condition of milk and desired keeping qualities4 ,curd is fit to cut up when it will split clean before the finger but is not so brittle as to break before the advancing knife4 ,cut first with the horizontal knife lengthways1 then crossway1 then lengthways with the perpendicular blade4 ,if milk is very ripe1 and a quick scald is necessary1 cut once more crossway with the perpendicular blade4 ,never slash curd in cutting1 as it starts milky whey and lowers your yield4 ,after cutting curd if milk is in normal condition1 it is1 perhaps1 better to agitate the curd gently for a few moments before heat is applied4 ,if milk has already taken on acid1 apply heat immediately after cutting4 ,in agitating curd use the hands for the first fifteen minutes1 then manipulate it with a rake4 ,stir only enough to keep it separated and prevent it from scorching on the hot bottom of the vat4 ,remember that cooking curd thoroughly is1 without doubt1 the most important part of the whole programme of cheese making4 ,do not place sole reliance on thermometer figures--let your judgment rule supreme above that4 ,see that every day's curd--the product of milk in all stages of maturity--does not part with the whey until it is cooked to a state of contractibility in which the cubes will separate by expansion after pressure by squeezing in the hand4 ,no maker considers his bread free from rawness until it has received a certain amount of heat in the oven1 and no cheese maker can expect to get a mellow1 firm cheese unless he cooks his curd as above described4 ,by using the smallest amount of heat possible to cook curd within a reasonable time1 a finer quality of cheese is secured and a better yield4 ,hold curd in the whey until it will string fine threads1 one-fourth of an inch in length1 on the hot iron4 ,aim to have the whey well drained out of the curd before it is ground4 ,do not grind curd when it is too hot4 ,if necessary1 cut into small blocks or strips and scatter over the bottom of the vat1 to cool to a temperature to about #he ,fahrenheit before grinding4 ,cheese makers should not be too much wedded to fixed rules4 ,for instance1 do not always hold curd in the whey until it shows a quarter of an inch of acid by the iron simply because it may be a rule4 ,let your judgment rise supreme over all rules4 ,frequently1 through the summer there are cool nights when the milk keeps so sweet that the next day no acid will show by the time you have the curd thoroughly cooked4 ,at such times1 as an experiment1 draw off the whey sweet and let the curd develop acid in the pack4 ,for your particular locality1 quality of milk and character of feed1 such a method may produce finer cheese than if soured in the whey1 and it may not4 ,you must test all of these little details to find out4 ,two pounds of salt and the fractional parts of a third pound1 up to sixteen ounces per #a1jjj pounds of milk1 covers the cheese maker's scale for the season in this department4 ,as a rule1 two pounds in the spring1 with a gradual ascendancy in quantity as the apex of hot weather approaches1 and then a declination in quantity toward fall1 is about the average amount used per #a1jjj pounds of milk for the ,cheddar process4 ,there are more makers who do not salt above two and a half pounds in hot weather than there are who use three pounds4 ,high salting retards curing1 and the object now is to get a new cheese onto the market as quickly as possible4 ,with a wet curd salt a little more than the rule by which you are running1 so as to make up the loss that goes out with the whey4 ,,cheese ,,for ,,the ,,british ,,market4 ,this quality of goods1 generally known as 8shipping cheese10 is made by the same process that we have described in this book with the exception that it is1 or should be1 worked down more4 8,worked down0 implies that a firmer cheese is produced1 one cooked more1 salted a trifle higher and soured more4 ,these requisites lend a cheese body and prolong its keeping qualities4 ,with all this1 it must be mellow1 close textured and fine flavored4 ,the ,english consumer wants such a cheese1 or he wants none4 8,a word to the wise is sufficient40 ,,skimmed ,,cheese4 ,making edible skimmed cheese is an effort to supply a constituent for the product that does not exist1 namely1 oleaginous matter4 ,the butter or cream in milk is what gives rich flavor and mellow body to cheese4 ,when a part or whole of this is removed by the skimmer1 the depleted fluid1 if manufactured into cheese1 just as that containing all of the cream would be1 will make dry1 tasteless stuff4 ,skimmed cheese must be cooked1 soured and salted less than full cream4 ,flat skims can often be scalded at #ic and #id ,fahrenheit4 ,but1 of course1 this must be governed entirely by the rules relating to thorough cooking4 ,,floating ,,curd4 ,floating curd emanates from the rankest known species of tainted milk4 ,the curd is surfeited with offensive1 poisonous gas1 that holds in check the acid and will inhabit the curd until its life has died out4 ,all the cheese maker can do is to wait patiently until its existence has ended and the curd1 ceasing to be inflative1 develops acid4 ,then grind and salt the usual amount1 airing by thorough stirring for an hour or more1 with doors and windows open1 to expel the taint4 ,let it sour in the pack4 ,if ground and salted before gas has left it1 the cheese will huff up like puff balls4 ,,boxing ,,cheese ,,for ,,market4 ,after the cheese designed for shipment are selected1 examine every one and look to it that there are no surface shortcomings2 if there are1 the discrepancy must be remedied4 ,aim to have the cheese go into the package neat and attractive in appearance4 ,a firm1 elastic rind1 well oiled1 and a spotless bandage cloth1 if forming the cuticle of a squarely-built1 well-shaped cheese1 is all in the line of the appearance that is desired by dealers and retailers4 ,in weighing the cheese1 give good up weight1 taking no account of anything less than a pound4 ,use the best quality of scale boards and boxes obtainable1 and have the latter fit the cheese snugly4 ,after a cheese is weighed1 place a scale board on the top end and shove a box onto it4 ,flop box and cheese over and1 as the latter settles into the case1 mark the weight on the side of the box4 ,if the box is too high1 shave the rim down to the cheese surface and place on a scale board and then cover4 ,it is imperative that the covers fit tightly and snugly1 and that any superfluous rim on the box be shaved off4 ,no cheese is properly prepared for transportation unless it is so tight in the box that it cannot shift and knock about4 ,brand the boxes in a neat1 workman-like manner1 having the lettering show plainly and distinctly4 ,then your cheese are ready for the freight car or the vessel's hold4 ,cheese are often slightly mouldy on their bandaged sides when cured in damp1 warm weather4 ,to obviate this1 when boxing1 rub the sides thoroughly with a dry1 soft cloth and do not box until just before shipping4 ,no cheese should be placed in boxes in hot weather until a few hours before transportation4 ,standing for several days in tight packages and exposed to a high temperature1 will not only try the quality of cheese but will positively injure the flavor of the very best4 ,if they could all go to their destination in refrigerator cars1 this evil would be greatly ameliorated4 ,with the facilities at hand1 however1 aim to place them on the market in as neat a shape as they rested on your curing room shelves4 ,,the ,,hot ,,iron ,,test4 ,i do not know what cheese makers would do nowadays without the hot iron to guide them in evenly maturing curd4 ,it is one of the most essential attributes of making4 ,it should1 of course1 be most judiciously used4 ,in #ahde1 ,mr4 ,l4 ,m4 ,norton1 of ,goshen1 ,conn41 discovered that the acid in curd could be gauged by stringing threads from a heated iron4 ,he kept the discovery a secret for a long time but at last divulged it4 ,to supply yourself with a handy instrument for testing acid1 take a three-quarter inch bar of iron a foot long and set one end into a ferrule on a wooden handle4 ,it can then be conveniently handled without burning the fingers4 ,heat the metal a little hotter than desired and then thrust for a moment into a bucket of water1 to thoroughly clean the surface4 ,holding it in the left hand1 take a piece of curd squeezed dry of whey and press against the iron4 ,if it does not adhere at all1 the curd is perfectly sweet1 no matter how it may smell to you4 ,if it clings slightly1 you may be assured that acid is beginning to develop1 so keep close watch of it4 ,curd ought never to string out threads more than one-fourth of an inch long before whey is drawn1 and oftentimes less is desirable4 ,have the iron at just the right temperature or you cannot make an accurate test4 ,a right temperature implies that the iron is so hot that the curd will fry around the edges when pressed against it1 but not so hot that it will scorch over4 ,tainted and floating curds will often string threads six inches and more in length1 and then not be fitted to grind and salt4 ,as soon as acid has overcome the gaseous condition of such curd so that the inflation will subside1 it is ready to grind1 but not before4 ,cheese makers should not be afraid of souring and airing such curd too much4 ,,milk4 ,in the manufacture of cheese the constituents of milk demand our first attention1 as we cannot intelligently study a subject without investigating its primary principles4 ,cow's milk contains3 ,water #hfd parts4 ,nitrogenous matter 7caseine and albumen7 #dc 0 ,sugar of milk #eb 0 ,fat #cg 0 ,mineral salts #d 0 ---------- #a1jjj ,the solids represented above are in the form of minute globules1 and the serum in which they float is the water or 8whey40 ,it is to unite these globules and separate them from the whey that is the primary function of cheese making4 ,it so happens that rennet1 the active agent in this process1 besides exerting an automatic1 chemical action on milk1 imparts to the solids new and vigorous properties that give cheese a medicinal value to the human stomach1 namely1 an inceptor of digestion4 ,it is imperative that a cheese maker understands enough about milk to instantly detect the slightest change from its sweet1 pure1 normal condition4 ,milk as a fluid is highly sensitive to unclean odors1 and when it absorbs them in a greater or less degree1 the maker should1 by an olfactory test1 discover the taint4 ,milk that has been tainted by a retention of the animal heat1 not having been cooled when freshly drawn1 will give off a rank1 burned smell1 nauseous in the extreme4 ,if the taint was absorbed from odors1 the peculiar scent of the particular stench will be indelibly impressed on the fluid4 ,mature or sour milk is more to be desired for cheese manufacture than milk poisoned by taint4 ,in fact1 a slight maturity of milk is necessary--or1 at least1 desirable--to produce a fine cheese1 the same as mature cream is required to develop good butter1 only in the former the 8ripeness0 must be scarcely perceptible1 while in the latter it must be well advanced4 ,all tainted milk1 and all milk that is 8old0 and nearly sour1 should be unconditionally rejected at the cheese factory for manufacture4 ,do not be afraid of financially losing by such a rule4 ,it is none too stringent1 and in the end it will give your goods a trade reputation that will be secure and impregnable4 ,the idea that really good cheese can be made out of poor milk is disproved by chemistry and common sense4 ,,salt4 ,one of the most important factors in cheese making is the saline mineral known as salt4 ,a cheese can be manufactured gilt-edged in every way1 but if it contains no salt1 an insufficient quantity of it or that which is of weak1 inferior quality1 it is simply a mass of perishable1 nitrogenous matter that will soon go to putrefaction4 ,salt checks the growth of the lactic acid as quickly as a rush of air snuffs out a candle2 therefore1 it has complete control over the quality of the cheese in this direction4 ,it preserves that quality for an indefinite time1 provided it exists in a sufficient proportion and the cheese has been scientifically made4 ,then1 again1 salt gives firmness and flavor to the cheese4 ,thus1 perceiving that cheese1 as a component of human food1 could not exist without salt1 the analogy between the purity of that article and the fine quality of cheese is at once apparent4 ,it is needless to advise the use of nothing but a fine1 pure grade of salt for savoring cheese4 ,perhaps1 instead of needless1 it is needful to admonish manufacturers in this regard4 ,i regret to say that ,i have observed many who held false ideas of economy about so cheap an article as this briny product4 ,a difference of twenty-five cents on a barrel would turn their judgment in favor of the cheaper1 coarser article1 and1 while really the losers thereby1 they would feel complacent over a supposed gain4 ,it is just such little slights as this--substituting poor for good salt--that help make up the discrepancy in quality already perceptible in ,american cheese4 ,the dairymen of this country possess the most advantageous position of any class of dairymen in the world4 ,for years their milch cattle have been bred toward the extinction of beef characteristics1 and toward the fostering and enlargement of lacteal tendencies1 until now1 in point of blood1 the general average is high4 ,intelligence1 skilled labor and ingenuity are at command and should so leaven the products of our dairies that they should stand above all competitors4 ,then1 why be 8,penny wise and pound foolish10 when so grand a prize as national trade reputation is at stake8 ,cheese manufacturers1 employ only the most experienced and careful help obtainable1 and be willing to pay them liberally for their services4 ,look only to the quality of your cheese and let the ratio take care of itself4 ,no matter if it takes eleven or twelve pounds of milk to produce a pound of cheese1 provided that cheese is gilt-edged in every particular4 ,use nothing but first-class material1 from the rennet1 coloring matter and salt that goes into the cheese to the scale board and the box that covers it4 ,let the foreign demand wane if it wants to--we know how to relish good cheese here at home just as well as our ,english brothers1 and1 in the future1 we are going to consume more of the product per capita1 too4 ,,home-,,made ,,cheese4 ,exhaustive rules for manufacturing cheese on a small scale at home occasionally go the rounds of the agricultural press4 ,some of them contain ideas of real merit and some do not4 ,all middle-aged people who have in younger days lived in localities where dairying reached even modest pretensions can recall the sweet-savored cheese room1 an adjunct of the kitchen1 whose furnishing of primitive milk utensils was then considered ample for the housewife's use4 ,associated dairies or factories soon came upon the stage1 and their vast superiority of method1 coupled with the adoption of the cheddar system1 marked an era in cheese improvement1 which said in effect1 if not in words1 that 8home dairy cheese must go40 ,the innovation of factories undermined and swept out of existence this small fry of amateur production1 because home dairymen would not or could not adopt the cheddar improvement and manipulate their milk with skilled labor4 ,dairies associated together under factory regime facilitated such an easy and quick disposal of one's milk1 and at such a greatly enhanced profit1 that the obvious convenience and economy of the new order of things1 more than any inimical characteristic it possessed1 pulled down the one and set up the other4 ,it matters not1 though1 to consumers in ,america or ,england1 whether the cheese they eat is made under the roof of a farm house on a small scale1 or in a mammoth factory on a large one1 provided the quality is good4 ,but there are serious drawbacks about making up milk in diminutive quantity that are hard to overcome4 ,let us discuss them and analyze their leading features3 ,i think it is safe to assume that not one person out of fifty who attempts to make home dairy cheese to-day but will manufacture it just as his fathers did fifty years ago4 ,in their minds the whole process is covered by coagulation of the milk1 quick cooking of the curd1 salting it and pressing it4 ,there is no thought of having the milk moderately mature1 the curd thoroughly cooked and then properly soured1 and the salt judiciously applied4 ,the amateur knows nothing about the fine yet necessary points of manufacture1 and so his cheese lacks the fine but requisite points of quality to insure it trade recognition4 ,we all like good cheese to eat1 but in this country1 thanks to the skimmer1 it is getting so that the good article is very scarce and promises to be scarcer if the skimmer's relations with the factory are not soon done away with4 ,a great many readers who live in non-cheese manufacturing districts appreciate mellow1 rich cheese when they sometimes at long intervals find it on their groceryman's counter1 and vow that they would eat the article more if the price was cheapened and the general quality raised4 ,you should1 if you live a hundred miles or so from any factory1 and if you have a few cows and your neighbor has a few more1 club together and make up some cheese for your own use4 ,you have a vivid remembrance of how your mother used to manage it years ago4 ,discard the wooden tub that she used1 for now we have tin vessels that are far preferable4 ,get two or three hundred pounds of milk together1 if possible1 but do not rob it of a bit of cream--keep that well worked into the fluid4 ,have a heavy bottomed tin box with round corners1 made at the tinner's1 one that is so shaped that it will fit into a large caldron kettle and yet leave a couple of inches of space between its outside surface and the iron sides of the kettle4 ,this space is for water1 which should be used as the best conductor to raise the temperature of the milk4 ,set the kettle in a brick or stone arch1 in which kindle a slow fire4 ,with the tin vessel filled with milk1 and water about it in the way described1 you have a cheese vat in miniature4 ,have a thermometer handy4 ,stir the milk often and do not let it get above #he before setting4 ,draw the fire out before it has fairly reached that temperature1 as the after heat will raise it a degree or two4 ,do not trust to your knowledge of the strength of rennet4 ,buy some ,rennetine and carefully follow directions as to the amount necessary to coagulate #ajj pounds of milk4 ,work the rennet in thoroughly and then cover the little 8vat0 up with a piece of sheeting4 ,it is very important to have just enough rennet as too much or too little will spoil the cheese4 ,have your tinner make you two curd knives1 one with perpendicular and the other with horizontal blades4 ,when the coagulated milk will break squarely over the finger1 and whey begins to start around the edges1 cut it quite finely with the knives1 using first the perpendicular and then the horizontal one4 ,raise the temperature slowly1 not to #ajj or #aaj1 but to a point where the curd is thoroughly cooked but not to dryness4 ,stir the curd and whey up at frequent intervals to keep it from packing4 ,do not hustle it into the press now just because you have it cooked1 unless it is sour4 ,remember that the curd must mature1 or1 in other words1 generate acid4 ,therein lies the future good quality of the cheese4 ,do not rely on your olfactory sense to gauge the sourness4 ,press a little piece of the curd against a hot iron4 ,when it pulls out strings one-half of an inch long in spring1 one inch long in midsummer and one-half inch in fall1 it is sour enough to be salted4 ,have the whey all dipped off and the curd drained before it has reached a maturity sufficient to salt4 ,do not salt in hot weather higher than one-fourth of a pound to a hundred pounds of milk1 and in spring and fall less4 ,as you have1 at the most1 only a little curd to manipulate1 do not let it get cold but put it in the hoop at a temperature of at least #ge4 ,do not try to save over curd for another batch the next day4 ,better have two twenty-pound cheese in two days than one forty-pounder during the same time4 ,you cannot graft new curd onto old without lowering the quality of the whole4 ,after you have a curd in the hoop do not try to press it with stone weights because there is so little of it4 ,have a small press frame and a screw for that purpose4 ,these small cheese will cure quickly4 ,keep the ends well oiled1 and lay them on a shelf in a warm room1 where they should be turned and rubbed every day4 ,the foregoing pointers are intended for persons who have some previous knowledge of making dairy cheese1 and1 therefore1 minute details of explanation have not been given4 ,the trouble with most home dairy makers is that they do not realize the importance of souring the curd1 and so make weak1 off-flavored1 perishable stock4 ,,october ,,cheese4 ,how are we to make as good cheese in ,october as we have been turning out in ,september8 ,this is the mental query that will sometimes arise in the minds of makers whose experience is not measured by length of years4 ,a one-twelfth turn of the wheel of the yearly chronological table ought not to produce such a vast change in lacteal affairs as to exert a radical change in the manufacturing process4 ,of course1 the artificial subdivisions of the season would be of but small moment in the case if they were not to a certain extent analogous to natural atmospheric changes4 ,as ,september wanes into ,october the summer is insidiously but surely attaining its maturity4 ,the grass roots having in a prolific manner fulfilled their annual mission1 fail to send forth the tender blade of earlier months4 ,blighting frosts sear the pastures and sap the succulence from the feed4 ,it is but natural that such an alteration in climatic influence should leave its effect on the milk4 ,it is a maxim of cheese making that you must work milk according to its condition1 not expecting one invariable rule to cover the whole science1 but keeping in mind numberless distinct methods of treatment1 for instant application as exigencies arise4 ,as a general thing1 less acid is deemed necessary for the ,october make than was applied to the ,september product4 ,i believe that in making this important change the majority of manufacturers are too abrupt in method and reduce the standard of ripeness prematurely in point of time4 ,a certain amount of acid is necessary to impart flavor and insure good keeping qualities1 hence more of it is required in hot weather than in cold1 as a defense against high temperature4 ,many think that as soon as the hot days are passed the need of an advanced curd maturity is passed also1 and make almost sweet cheese4 ,if there is any thing that is fraught with dire consequences in cheese making1 it is extremes practiced in the modus operandi4 ,avoid anything so derogatory and let conservatism characterize your movements4 ,despite seasons and weather1 and climate1 we have got to apply just so much acid to cheese to make it palatable and mellow1 and if the product is liable to encounter crucial weather enough more sourness to retain the flavor established is imperative4 ,but what weakens fall goods is that in decreasing the acid scale in view of cold weather ahead the retrograde is pushed beyond its own needs and infringes on the quality of the cheese4 ,in their zeal to have the standard just right1 ,i have known old makers to produce a lot of weak ,october cheese before they realized where the trouble was4 ,better have a little fullness of acid on fall stock than not enough4 8,doctor1 why is it that you always buy a late fall cheese for winter family use80 was asked one of the medical fraternity by a factory employee as he delivered a forty pounder at his door4 8,we have in my estimation far better goods on the shelves made in ,august and ,september1 and the price is the same40 8,well1 you see1 young man10 said the ,doctor1 pouring some quinine into a vial1 8,i have a notion that late fall cheese is healthier2 the milk is no richer1 perhaps1 than in ,september but the air is cool and pure1 and1 of course1 you know what a debilitating effect heat waves and miasmatic atmospheric currents have on milk4 ,well1 the less poison there is in the air1 the less there will be in the milk and subsequently in the cheese1 consequently my choice40 ,i believe the man of pills argued in the right direction there1 but then there is happily a way of expunging from the curd infections absorbed by the milk from the atmosphere1 namely1 airing4 ,the most diabolical enemy of ,october cheese is the skimmer4 ,in factories where that is unused there is a clear field for developing fine stock1 but there is no concealing the fact that all attempts to smooth over the impoverishing effects of its use by the most skilled treatment are futile and unavailing4 ,if all of the good endeavor to make mellow1 rich cheese out of substance that is but dross was expended in divorcing the illegitimate union of creamery and cheese factory1 incalculable benefit would accrue to dairy interests4 ,this month avoid cold draughts through the make-room during the scalding process1 as a vat presents a large surface for a current of air to exert a chilling effect upon4 ,be sure and cook the curd enough4 ,there is a vast amount of fall made cheese that comes to grief through insufficient scalding4 ,if you do not bake a loaf of bread thoroughly1 you have a doughy and unpalatable article of food1 and if curd is not cooked until it has passed the raw state1 it will retain a certain quantity of whey and damage the product on the shelves4 ,this is the cause of strong-flavored1 flabby-textured cheese4 ,a gentleman of long experience in the trade has said3 8,the truth is1 as it is difficult to cure cheese in cold weather1 it ought to be cooked more than will answer in hot weather1 and sour less1 as the tendency is to acidulation in a cool atmosphere1 in consequence of the moisture not drying out soon enough40 ,to this we can append the suggestion of never trying to cure a cheese in a cool atmosphere1 for the result will be a failure4 ,a cheese cannot help but grow old in a cold room but it will never cure4 ,a ,,significant ,,report4 ,a recent issue of the ,utica ,herald contains the following3 ,a ,new ,york gentleman1 who has recently returned from ,liverpool1 writes to a friend in this city and reports the situation healthy on the other side1 but says ,new ,york ,state cheese are done for as far as fine cheese goes4 ,it is the same old trouble we have mentioned time and again1 too much cheese to the pound of milk--no body4 ,canada1 and even ,new ,zealand1 are taking the trade of fine cheese from the ,states4 ,our factory men will wake up to the fact some day and find their goods are only second class4 ,in fact1 it is about so now4 ,new ,york ,state cheese sell under ,canada all the way from #a;c4 a pound4 ,we have preached this a long while but it is beginning to be realized now4 ,this accounts for the large shipments from ,canada during the last two months1 and the small ones from here4 ,cheese industry is not yet of sufficient magnitude to exert any marked influence on the ,european markets1 but as the dairy industry is constantly expanding here1 and the ,state's product must stand on its own merits1 it behooves manufacturers to avoid the pit that their brothers of the ,empire ,state have inadvertently stumbled into4 ,we consume a large amount of cheese here at home1 and why are not our stomachs as worthy to be catered to as are the digestive receptacles of our ,english cousins across the pond8 ,yet there is no alarm in cheese circles as to deteriorated quality until ,british buyers find something that suits them better and for which they are willing to pay more4 ,truly cheese-eating ,new ,yorkers are a very patient people4 ,we have before us the file of a leading ,american cheese report of #ahfh--twenty years ago4 ,it says3 8,we are behind the ,canadians as regards firmness1 but ahead of them in point of flavor4 ,the same relation exists between ,american and ,swedish cheese2 also1 between ,american and ,english cheese1 and other ,european makes1 with the exception of a few of the best ,english brands1 which are equal if not superior to our finest grades1 as regards flavor1 and superior in fineness and firmness of texture40 ,this was ,america's prestige a score of years ago4 ,why has it not been sustained8 ,the cause is clear to the most obdurate4 ,producers supposed their cheese supreme in the ,english markets and have been abusing an established trade reputation with impunity4 ,their folly is now apparent1 and the question naturally arises1 ,will they play the role of the prodigal son and return to a path of trade rectitude8 ,that implies that the banns that unite the creamery and the cheese factory be irrevocably severed--send the skimmer higher than ,gilroy's kite1 as it were4 ,the ,american people can appreciate good cheese just as well as the ,english4 ,we want good butter1 too1 but not at the cost of the cheese quality4 ,that is not necessary1 and a few years ago we did not deem it so1 either4 ,why should there be a tendency in that direction now8 ,we are now better equipped in every department to send out better cheese than we did in #ahfh1 yet notice the difference in the two reports quoted4 ,we are better equipped1 because we have more scientific appliances for handling milk4 ,our milk is better1 because the pastures are improved1 and a finer grade of stock feeds upon them4 ,makers of to-day who rely on the accumulated cheese wisdom handed down through two decades of experience should be rich enough in knowledge to at least not retrograde from the standard of #ahfh4 ,let us for one moment lay reform in the tariff1 and reform in the civil service on the table and talk1 think and act about reform in cheese4 ,michigan always takes a front seat when reformation of any kind is agitated4 ,we are satisfied she will not take a back seat now4 ,there has probably not been such a tendency in this ,state as in other localities to rob milk at both ends and on the sides before it is suffered to coagulate in cheese1 but let us smother what infection there is before it becomes an established blight on the ,wolverine product4 ,we are satisfied that our dairymen are alive to their interests here1 and will not drift away from safe anchorage4 ,a shipping cheese requires more body1 or1 in other words1 more acid and firmness than a cheese designed for home consumption4 ,this is partly due to the fact that such a quality is demanded by ,european consumers and partly because an ocean voyage necessitates it4 ,it takes more milk to make such cheese1 and less milk to produce the softer and more perishable home trade goods4 ,in thrusting the cheaper article on the foreign market1 ,new ,yorkers have staked a hazardous venture and lost4 ,nothing is said about the skimmer1 but it gets in its insidious work all the same--not under full cream brands1 probably4 ,we do not insinuate that1 but the markets are crowded with night and flat skims1 occupying space that should be filled with richer goods4 ,skims are sent over to ,england when they really want full cream4 ,canada and ,new ,zealand step in with a fine quality of the latter brand1 and they take it even in preference to the ,states' best offering4 ,we hold skimmed cheese greatly responsible for the trade depression under which the ,american article is now laboring4 ,it is high time that the dry1 hard stuff was known no more in all the earth4 ,,prepared ,,rennet ,,and ,,color4 ,the value to the cheese trade of scientifically prepared rennet and annotto color cannot be over estimated4 ,rennet extract1 and one quality annottoine1 are not in general use1 but they should be4 ,with the home prepared infusion of both articles1 we have a thousand diverse shades of quality and degrees of strength1 and1 worst of all1 they are often applied to the milk1 hit or miss4 ,the result is unevenness in cheese quality and color1 where there should be perfect uniformity4 ,we advise all makers to renounce as fast as practicable the old1 often unsatisfactory method of soaking rennet skins1 and steeping annotto seed1 and adopt reliably prepared extracts of these essential cheese ingredients4 ,,cheese ,,that ,,huff4 ,a good1 properly manufactured cheese will never huff up on the surface1 or swell the bandage to the point of protuberance4 ,cheese often huff slightly when curing1 and afterward flatten into a smooth1 firm surface1 but they are never ,no4 #a stock4 ,the writer can remember fifteen years back when makers did not understand working gaseous curds as they do now4 ,sales and shipments were far between then1 and cheese accumulated in great numbers in factories4 ,it was no uncommon thing in the years '#gc and '#gd1 in passing through a curing room containing #ejj or #fjj cheese1 to find a large percentage of the umber covered with immense blisters1 that held in retention offensive smelling gases4 ,every day the maker would lance these unhealthy swellings with a wire or goose quill1 only to have them shortly after bulge out in another place4 ,besides these partially affected cheese1 there were often days' makes of those that would huff all over1 swell out like huge puff balls till a slight jar would have rolled them from the shelves4 ,these were the product of floating curds with the gas all left in4 ,a decade and a half ago farmers did not take the same care of their milk that they do now4 ,they were not versed in dairy literature to any extent1 and did not see the importance of speedily expelling animal heat from milk or of always furnishing their cows with wholesome drinking water4 ,hence1 tainted milk was more often the rule than the exception4 ,with the present bettered quality of milk and the improved skill of makers in handling it1 inflative cheese ought to now be foreign to the curing room4 ,bad taints are at present seldom met with1 but slight ones creep in unawares1 unless the maker is vigilant1 and then it is his business to eradicate the ill-savor4 ,sour until acid has completely overcome the gas1 grind twice1 and give the curd a prolonged airing by frequent stirring4 ,try the prolonged stirring on common curds that are hot--too hot to go immediately to press--and notice how it will enhance the flavor of the cheese4 ,,factory ,,utensils4 ,as a maker1 ,i have had opportunities of seeing milk in all stages and in all conditions1 and ,i have found it an invariable rule that the milk furnished by farmers who read and studied the dairy question in all of its phases2 who were conversant with dairy literature and adopted the most improved methods extant for producing an abundant1 pure and rich flow of milk1 were enough affected by the ideas absorbed from library and press to be unconsciously moulded by their influence4 ,on the other hand1 farmers who never read2 who avoided all progressive methods as 8new-fangled notions0 and clung to the primitive ways of their ancestors1 forgetful that those ancestors adopted nothing new because there was no new thing to adopt1 furnished milk sometimes good1 often poor1 and never profitable to themselves4 ,a man who doesn't have an opinion on the relative value of milch breeds1 who doesn't know how to feed scientifically and who has narrow conceptions of systematic dairying1 generally is1 in this competitive epoch1 an agricultural cipher4 ,the other day the writer inspected two cheese factories1 separated by only a few miles1 each being located on admirable sites and accessible to water4 ,previous to my visit ,i had been told that the maker in ,b----'s factory had1 during the past season1 produced poor1 uneven stock1 which was a surprise to his friends1 as his trade reputation was excellent4 ,on the other hand1 ,i knew that the cheese from ,w----'s factory1 although manufactured by a man of less experience than his rival1 had sold at prices above the former's and footed up a lower ratio4 ,as soon as ,i had seen the interior of each building the sequel was made plain to me1 and subsequent investigation proved it4 ,the first named factory was a mere shell1 furnished with utensils both primitive and worn out2 the second was a tight1 plastered structure and equipped with all of the paraphernalia essential to a modern cheese building4 ,the competition was like running a pony express against a ,united ,states mail train4 ,a cheese factory needs good1 improved utensils1 just the same as a farm requires machinery of the latest patterns4 ,it should have a boiler1 because steam heating is cheaper1 more under control and1 consequently1 safer for scalding than where fire under heating is employed4 ,it should be furnished with a curd mill1 because with one the maker has the acid almost completely under control4 ,without a mill1 the whey must be retained until nearly enough acid has developed to meet the requisite gauge4 ,then it must be hastily drawn and hastily salted1 with the whey not all out of it2 too often the acid is in advance of the maker's expectations4 ,cheese made in this way from day to day cannot help but be uneven in flavor1 in salt and in acid4 8,salting in the whey10 as it is called1 without a mill is wasteful1 too4 ,as the whey flows off1 the constant tendency of the curd is to pack1 and hand manipulation to prevent this will start white whey1 the life blood of the cheese1 in wasteful quantities4 ,with a mill to use1 all this is changed4 ,the whey can be drawn when but very little acid has appeared1 and the curd1 packed and drained1 waits for the sourness to develop there4 ,it matures more slowly than when submerged in whey1 and when the right point is reached the iron teeth of the mill attack it and tear it up and salt it when in a dry state1 which is a great advantage4 ,the make-room should be supplied with a gang press and patent hoops1 because one screw will compress a dozen cheese and solidify them more firmly than old fashioned single screws4 ,a good cheese can be spoiled after it is in the hoop by insufficient pressing4 ,i consider the latest milk handling devices almost as essential in a modern factory or creamery as the practical knowledge of the maker4 ,not merely for labor saving purposes should manufactories be so supplied1 but because the demands of present trade require dairy products of a complexion difficult to attain without4 ,it is a 8penny wise and pound foolish0 policy to scantily furnish a butter or cheese plant when thereby the loss on one under price sale would have more than covered the deficiency in tools4 ,,to ,,cheese ,,makers4 ,the main point why ,canadian cheese is lately quoted higher than ,american is that they are ahead of us on uniformity4 ,to obtain this a uniform ,rennet and a uniform ,color are most essential4 ,no matter how careful the maker is1 he can never get it as uniform as our ,chr4 ,hansen's ,rennet ,extract ----,,and---- ,,cheese ,,color4 ,taking into account the poor ,rennets in the market1 the saving by making your own ,extract is very small2 and as to ,cheese ,color1 even if you did save #fj cents a gallon it would only cost you #e cents more to color #ajjj pounds of cheese1 a mere nothing if ours is at all more uniform and of a more natural shade1 bright1 clean1 creamy1 and not dull reddish4 ,consider this1 and give our ,extract and ,color a fair trial4 ,if you prefer ,rennet in dry shape try our ,rennet ,tablets1 which are quite as cheap and a great deal handier to use than powder4 ,send for ,price ,list to ,,chr4 ,,hansen',s ,,laboratory1 7,little ,falls1 ,n4 ,y417 or #ag ,dearborn ,street1 ,,chicago1 ,,ill4 ,j4 ,d4 ,,frederiksen1 ,,esq41 ,,brockville1 ,ont41 ,july #ag1 #ahhf4 ,,chr4 ,,hansen',s ,,laboratory1 ,,little ,,falls1 ,n4 ,y43 ,dear ,sir--,your ,rennet and ,color are positively the finest that have ever been introduced into this section4 ,i know this personally4 ,our cheese are finer this year than ever before in consequence of using those goods4 ,yours respectfully1 ,d4 ,,derbyshire1 ,pres't ,e4 ,o4 ,d4 ,a4 ,,creamery1 ,,cheese ,,factory ,,and ,,dairy ,,machinery ,,and ,,supplies4 ,illustration3 ,decoration ,d4 ,h4 ,,roe ,,co41 ,,chicago1 ,,ill41 ,,carry ,a ,,full ,,line ,,of ,,all ,,kinds ,,of ,,supplies1 ,,such ,,as ,butter ,cloth1 ,cheese ,cloth1 ,cloth ,circles1 ,,rennets1 ,,rennet ,,extract1 ,,rennet ,,tablets1 ,,cheese ,,color1 ,,butter ,,color1 ,,cheese ,,grease1 ,,salt1 ,,butter ,,tubs1 ,,cheese ,,boxes1 ,,cheese ,,box ,,stock1 c41 c4 ,,also ,a ,,full ,,line ,,of ,cream ,vats1 ,milk ,vats1 ,self ,heating ,vats1 ,churns1 ,steam ,boilers1 ,steam ,engines1 ,separators1 ,cheese ,presses1 ,butter ,printers1 ,etc41 ,etc41 ,etc4 ,send for ,price ,list1 and mention the 8,hand-,book40 ,illustration3 ,barrels ,acknowledged to be the only proper ,,cheese ,,dressing on the market4 ,manufactured only by ,b4 ,j4 ,,johnson ,,co41 ,,milwaukee1 ,,wis4 ,,the ,,michigan ,,dairyman4 ,official ,organ of the ,michigan ,dairyman's ,association4 #ej ,,cents ,,per ,,year ,,in ,,advance4 ,sample ,copies sent ,free4 ,address the ,publishers1 ,e4 ,a4 ,,stowe ,,bro41 ,grand ,rapids1 ,michigan4 ,transcriber's ,notes pg #ab ,changed3 the whole mass is preceptibly to3 the whole mass is perceptibly pg #ae ,changed3 been thoroughly agitated vithout bruising to3 been thoroughly agitated without bruising pg #af ,changed3 slightly 7perpaps in five minutes to3 slightly 7perhaps in five minutes pg #ag ,changed3 sure test of which ,i are aware to3 sure test of which ,i am aware pg #ai ,changed3 ,a maker who can preceive to3 ,a maker who can perceive pg #bj ,changed3 expel heat as to expugn the gaseous odors to3 expel heat as to expunge the gaseous odors pg #ba ,changed3 tht last thing stirring up the surface to3 that last thing stirring up the surface pg #cc ,changed3 the rennet or gastic juice it contains to3 the rennet or gastric juice it contains pg #cd ,changed3 been secreted in their mammilary glands to3 been secreted in their mammillary glands pg #ce ,changed3 seat on the bench of humilation to3 seat on the bench of humiliation pg #cf ,changed3 inexorably exacts from the physicial to3 inexorably exacts from the physical pg #cg ,changed3 ,as all patirons are served to3 ,as all patrons are served pg #ci ,changed3 lengthway to lengthways 7two times7 pg #de ,changed3 afraid af financially losing to3 afraid of financially losing pg #eb ,changed3 a way of expugning from the curd to3 a way of expunging from the curd pg #eb ,changed3 benefit would accrue to dairy interetes to3 benefit would accrue to dairy interests pg #ee ,changed3 scientific appliances for handling miik to3 scientific appliances for handling milk pg #ee ,changed3 before it becomes an establisted to3 before it becomes an established pg #eh ,changed3 who does't know how to feed scientifically to3 who doesn't know how to feed scientifically