,illustration ,,host ,,and ,,guest4 ,illustration 8,come1 pilgrim1 ,i will bring you where you shall host40 ,all's ,well that ,ends ,well4 8,epicurean cooks1 sharpen with cloyless sauce his appetite40 ,antony and ,cleopatra4 8,el que solo se come su gallo1 ,solo ensilla su caballo40 ,spanish ,proverb4 8,he who eats his fowl alone1 will have to saddle his horse alone40 8,tres mihi conviv prope dissentire videntur1 ,poscentes vario multum diversa palato4 ,quid dem8 quid non dem80 ,,horace4 ,,host ,,and ,,guest4 ,a ,,book ,,about ,,dinners1 ,,dinner-,,giving1 ,,wines1 ,,and ,,desserts4 ,,by ,a4 ,v4 ,,kirwan1 ,,of ,,the ,,middle ,,temple1 ,,esq4 ,illustration ,,london3 ,,bell ,,and ,,daldy1 ,,york ,,street1 ,,covent ,,garden4 ,illustration ,,preface4 ,there is no want of cookery books in the principal languages of ,europe1 and least of all in the ,english language1 in which1 even in our own generation1 several hundreds have been compiled and published4 ,this volume1 however1 is not a cookery book1 nor what the ,french call a dispensaire4 ,it is a household book on the subject of ,dinners1 ,desserts1 ,wines1 ,liqueurs1 and on foods in general2 and is the result of reading1 observation1 and a great deal of experience in foreign countries4 ,i have been myself1 during a life now nearly prolonged to threescore years1 a diner out of some magnitude1 and1 as far as my means allowed1 a giver of dinners2 and have often when younger and less experienced1 felt the want1 and have heard my friends express their sense of the want1 of some work of the kind now first presented1 so far as ,i am aware1 in an ,english dress4 ,born in a country house--a messuage producing1 to use a legal phrase1 within the curtilage1 beef1 mutton1 fruits1 and vegetables--,i have ventured to speak of the choice and quality of these good things from an early and practical acquaintance with the subject4 ,so much needs to be said on a matter on which all are eloquent1 though few agreeable--,i mean self4 ,it is necessary to state that it is not from reading1 but actual practical experience1 that ,i have learned all about the farm1 the garden1 and the poultry-yard4 ,there are several works of a cognate character to this in ,latin and ,french1 and some in ,italian and ,spanish4 ,but these are scarce1 costly1 old1 and obsolete4 ,few are acquainted with the treatises of ,nonnius1 ,taillevant1 cook to ,charles ,,vii41 ,champier1 physician to ,francis ,i41 ,blon1 ,patin1 ,charles ,etienne1 ,lmery1 ,la ,varenne1 ,schookius1 ,le ,grand1 ,de ,serres1 and ,l',etoile1 some of them written in indifferent ,latin1 and others in old ,french4 ,i have extracted from these works a good deal curious1 and something valuable in the choice and preparation of foods4 ,i have endeavoured to show how the traditions of cookery have occasionally survived codes and constitutions1 and how these traditions have been1 in turn1 occasionally set aside and overturned by some new culinary fashion4 ,the work presented to the reader is therefore1 in certain parts1 historical1 anecdotical1 gossipping1 and somewhat discursive2 but the main object of the author has been to induce well informed and sensible people in ,england to adopt all that is good in the excellent cookery1 and agreeable and social life of our neighbours of ,france1 without in any wise abandoning the best of our ,british customs1 or the simplicity of our substantial food4 ,it is not for the author to say in how far he has succeeded4 ,that he leaves to the judgment1 and they are a great majority1 of those who criticise in a fair and candid spirit4 ,all1 however1 who affect to criticise are not candid2 but it may be said of a critic who deliberately misrepresents a work1 that he is unworthy of his vocation1 and as heinously criminal as the man who in social or commercial life gives a false character of a servant1 or a false warranty of goods or merchandise4 #gc1 ,gloucester ,place1 ,portman ,square1 ,w4 ,march #a1 #ahfd4 ,illustration ,,contents4 ,,chapter ,i4--,,ancient ,,and ,,medi,,val ,,cookery ,,compared ,,with ,,the ,,cookery ,,of ,,the ,,last ,,half ,,century4 ,garum--,pilau seasoned with garum1 #b4 ,the ,feast of ,trimalchio in ,petronius1 #b4 ,macrobius's description of a supper given by ,lentulus1 #b4 ,hedge hogs1 raw oysters1 and asparagus1 and purple shell-fish1 #b4 ,panes picences1 #b4 ,greeks and ,romans children in preparation of viands1 #c4 ,carme's opinion1 #c4 ,cookery a practical art1 #c4 ,characteristics of ancient and modern cookery1 #d4 ,the ,monks1 #d4 ,spanish cookery book of ,ruberto de ,nola1 #d4 ,leo ,x41 ,raphael1 ,guido1 ,baccio1 ,bandinelli1 and ,john of ,bologna1 #e4 ,italian wars under ,charles ,,viii4 and ,louis ,,xii41 #e4 ,cookery under ,henry ,,iii4 became ,italian1 #f4 ,cookery under ,henry ,,iv41 #f4 ,the cabaret1 #g4 ,matre queux cuisiniers porte-chapes1 #g4 ,first regular cookery book in ,france printed in #afib1 #g4 ,the 8,dons de ,comus10 #i4 ,preface written by ,father ,brumoy1 #i4 ,brumoy's comparison between ancient and modern cookery1 #aj4 ,idea of a perfect cook1 #aj4 8,lettre d'un ,ptissier ,anglais10 #aa4 ,mrs4 ,rundell1 #ab4 8,la ,science du ,matre d',htel ,cuisinier10 #ab4 ,carme1 #ac4 ,molire1 #ac4 ,st4 ,evremond1 #ad4 ,lavardin1 #ae4 ,the ,regent ,orleans1 #ae4 ,the ,duchess of ,berri1 #ae4 ,filets de volaille la ,bellevue1 #af4 ,poulets la ,villeroy1 #af4 ,chartreuse la ,mauconseil1 #af4 ,vol au vent la ,nesle1 #af4 ,poularde la ,montmorency1 #af4 ,louis ,,xv41 #ag4 ,marquis de ,bchamel1 #ah4 ,marshals ,richelieu and ,duras1 ,duke of ,la ,vallire1 the ,marquis de ,brancas1 and ,count de ,tess1 #ah4 ,consumption of pheasants in the kitchens of the ,prince de ,cond1 #ah4 ,louis ,,xvi41 #ai4 ,his enormous appetite1 #ai4 ,effects of ,revolution on cookery1 #ai4 ,cardinal ,caraffa1 #bj4 ,montaigne1 #bj4 ,restaurants1 #ba4 ,suppers of ,madame du ,deffand1 #bb4 ,dinners of ,d',holbach1 #bb4 ,pic-nics of ,crawford of ,auchinames1 #bb4 ,the epicure ,barras1 #bc4 ,danton's love of morels1 #bc4 ,barras' love of button mushrooms1 #bc4 ,napoleon's dinners1 #bc4 ,m4 de ,bausset1 ,m4 de ,cussy1 ,cambacres1 ,talleyrand1 #be4 ,the 8,almanach des ,gourmands10 #bf4 ,purge your cooks1 #bh4 ,frog dressing at ,riom1 #bh4 ,veal of ,pontoise1 #bi4 ,gastaldy and the salmon1 #bi4 ,flesh killed by electricity1 #cj4 ,asses' flesh1 #cj4 ,white grease of the fig-pecker1 #ca4 ,beauvilliers1 #ca4 ,brillat ,savarin1 #ca4 ,consumption of turkeys1 #cb4 ,the ,archbishop of ,bordeaux and truffled turkeys1 #cc4 ,the 8,cuisinire ,bourgeoise10 #cc4 ,fauche ,borel1 #cc4 8,cuisinier ,royal10 #cc4 ,shakespeare1 ,age of ,elizabeth1 #cd4 ,age of ,anne1 ,wycherly1 ,vanbrugh1 ,congreve1 ,pope1 #cd4 ,foote's farce1 #ce4 ,bills of fare in ,pope's day1 #cf4 ,the 8,queen's ,closet ,opened10 #cf4 ,the 8,treasure of ,hidden ,secrets10 #cg4 ,the 8,gentleman's ,companion20 ,dr4 ,hill1 8,mrs4 ,glasse10 #cg4 ,the 8,connoisseur10 #ci4 ,white's1 ,pontacs'1 ,dolly's and ,horsman's1 #ci4 ,the 8,art of ,cookery10 by a lady1 #ci4 ,the 8,epicure's ,almanack10 #dj4 ,the 8,cook and ,confectioner's ,dictionary10 #dj4 ,mrs4 ,dalgairns1 #dj4 ,scott's 8,dictionary of ,cookery10 ,kitchener's 8,cook's ,oracle10 #da4 ,the 8,housekeeper's ,oracle10 #da4 ,ude1 #db4 ,walker's 8,original10 #db4 8,domestic ,cookery10 by a lady1 #de4 ,carme1 #dg4 ,turtle soup1 #dh4 ,cookery of ,england and ,france1 #ej4 ,,chapter ,,ii4--,,on ,,modern ,,cookery ,,and ,,cookery ,,books4 ,the object of sensible people should be to adopt all that is good in the cookery of ,france1 #fa4 ,french potages and pures1 #fa4 ,the gigot l'ail aux haricots1 #fb4 ,the filet de buf1 #fb4 ,vatel1 ,la ,chapelle1 ,grimod de la ,reynire1 ,beauvilliers1 ,ude1 ,laguipierre1 ,carme1 and ,plumeret1 #fe4 ,,chapter ,,iii4--,,on ,,dinners ,,and ,,dinner-,,giving4 ,jules ,janin1 #ff4 ,dr4 ,johnson1 #ff4 ,sydney ,smith1 #fg4 ,apicius1 #fg4 ,nonnius1 #fg4 ,lmery1 #fh4 ,dr4 ,lister1 #fh4 ,dr4 ,kitchener1 #fh4 ,drs4 ,pereira and ,lankester1 #fh4 ,london dinners1 #fi4 ,the finer cuisine bourgeoise of ,paris1 #fi4 ,the majority of ,frenchmen thrifty1 #gj4 ,bankers' and financiers' dinners1 #gj4 ,french punctuality1 #gb4 ,the ,london season1 #gc4 ,difference between grand dinners in ,england and ,france1 #gd4 ,pretentious and costly rivalry in dinners1 #gf4 ,hints to dinner-givers1 #gh4 ,number of a company1 #gi4 ,expensive cookery1 #ha4 ,the pot-au-feu1 #hb4 ,carme's consomms1 #hb4 ,french sauces1 #hb4 ,soles la ,normande1 #hb4 ,omelette aux fines herbes1 #hb4 ,choice of company1 #hd4 ,italian cookery1 ices1 and confectionery1 #he4 ,spanish and ,german cookery1 #he4 ,dutch cookery1 #hh4 ,dutch eel soup1 #hh4 ,flushing soup1 #hh4 ,russian cookery1 #hi4 ,turkish and ,indian cookery1 #hi4 ,,chapter ,,iv4--,,on ,,laying ,,out ,a ,,table4 ,dinners la ,russe1 #ia4 ,two and three courses1 #id1 #ie4 ,the dessert1 #ig4 ,memorandum as to dinners1 #ig4 ,,chapter ,v4--,,how ,,to ,,choose ,,fish1 ,,flesh1 ,,fowl1 ,,and ,,game4 ,salmon in and out of season1 #ih4 ,how to choose various fish1 #ih-aji4 ,how to choose venison1 #aji4 ,mutton1 #aaa4 ,lamb1 veal1 and pork1 #aab1 #aac4 ,bacon and hams1 #aad1 #aae4 ,poultry1 game1 eggs1 cheese1 and butter1 #aae-abb4 ,,chapter ,,vi4--,,on ,,soups ,,and ,,broths4 ,grand bouillon1 #abd4 ,rules for making nourishing broth1 #abe4 ,how to make a stock-pot1 #abf4 ,celery to flavour soup1 #abi4 ,broth1 #acj4 ,the great ,english soups and broths1 #aca4 ,carme and turtle soup1 #acc4 ,stocks for white soup1 #acc4 ,french soups1 #acd4 ,pure la ,reine1 des carottes au riz1 de lapins1 la ,chantilly1 c41 #acd4 ,soup for winter and spring months1 #ace4 ,,chapter ,,vii4--,,how ,,to ,,clean ,,and ,,boil ,,fish4 ,to clean cod-fish1 #acg4 ,pilchards1 mackerel1 and plaice1 #ach4 ,red mullets1 skate1 and ling1 #aci4 ,on boiling fish1 #adc1 #add4 ,,chapter ,,viii4--,,on ,,fish4 ,fish naturally most voracious1 #ade4 ,as a diet wholesome and palatable1 #adf4 ,fish rarely served as an entre in ,england1 #adf4 ,various ways of serving turbot in ,france1 #adf-g4 ,turbot of ,mediterranean1 #adh4 ,sturgeon1 #adh4 ,caviare1 #adi4 ,french modes of dressing sturgeon1 #adi4 ,modes of dressing sturgeon in ,england1 #adi4 ,sturgeon la ,napoleon1 according to ,carme1 #aej4 ,american sturgeon soup1 #aej4 ,salmon1 #aea4 ,french mode of dressing salmon1 #aea4 ,nonnius on salmon1 #aeb4 ,cod-fish1 #aeb4 ,galen on haddock1 #aeb4 ,nonnius and ,pliny on haddock1 #aeb4 ,the sole1 #aec4 ,french modes of dressing1 #aec4 ,red mullet1 #aed4 ,red mullet en caisse1 and la ,cardinale1 #aed4 ,john ,dory and lamprey1 #aed4 ,quin1 the actor1 #aed4 ,receipts for dressing lamprey1 #aee4 ,the ,reformation and fish diet1 #aee4 ,carme on lenten diet and ,murat's kitchen1 #aee4 ,fish dinners in ,paris1 #aeg4 ,dinner at the ,rocher de ,cancale1 #ahbh1 #aeg4 ,wine at #ad frs4 and #be frs4 the bottle1 #aeh-i4 ,,chapter ,,ix4--,,the ,,roast4 ,definition of roast1 #afj4 ,rtisseries1 #afa4 ,rtisseurs1 #afa4 ,the traiteur1 #afa4 ,the cuisinier traiteur1 #afa4 ,the matre cuisiniers1 #afb4 ,the art of roasting1 #afb4 ,the best joint for roasting1 #afc4 ,doing to a turn1 #afd4 ,good roasters rarer than good cooks1 #afd4 ,great and little roast1 #afd4 ,english1 roasting1 #afe4 ,our game finer than the ,french1 #afe4 ,swift's lines on mutton1 #aff4 ,rules for roasting pork1 lamb1 veal1 and poultry1 #afg4 ,table of time for roasting1 #afi4 ,,chapter ,x4--,,boiling4 ,rule as to boiling1 #agj4 ,advantage of slow boiling1 #agb4 ,time required to boil poultry1 #agc4 ,frying1 #agc4 ,,chapter ,,xi4--,,poultry4 ,definition of poultry1 #agd4 ,requisites in a poultry yard1 #agd4 ,best modes of feeding and cramming poultry1 #age4 ,wholesomeness of poultry1 #age4 ,lmery on fowls and capons1 #agf-g4 ,how the fine flavour is given to the poularde du ,mans1 #agh4 ,the barn-door fowl described by ,berchoux1 #agi4 ,roast and boiled fowl and turkey1 #ahj4 ,ways of serving fowls and turkeys in ,france1 #ahj4 ,entres of fowl in ,france1 #ahj-a4 ,schools of cookery1 #aha4 ,christmas consumption of turkeys in ,england and ,france1 #aha4 ,truffles with turkey1 #aha4 ,chaptal on fowls1 #ahb4 ,pros and cons for a dinde aux truffes1 #ahb4 ,were turkeys known to the ancients8 #ahc4 ,madame de ,svign on capons1 #ahc4 ,the crammer of fowls an officer of the royal household1 #ahd4 ,blackbirds and thrushes1 #ahd4 ,,chapter ,,xii4--,,game ,,and ,,pastry4 ,definition of game1 #ahf4 ,keeper and taker of pheasants1 #ahf4 ,swanherd1 #ahf4 #ag ,hen4 ,,viii41 falconry1 #ahg4 ,cookery ,book of ,taillevant1 cook to ,charles ,,vii42 receipts for dressing herons1 #ahg4 ,vultures1 eagles1 and falcons1 eaten three centuries ago1 #ahh4 ,game in ,spain1 partridges la ,medina ,cli1 #ahi4 ,sauts1 filets1 and recondite modes of dressing game in ,france1 #aij4 ,filets and cutlets of hare and rabbit1 #aia4 ,pastry and cold entres1 #aia4 ,carme on pastry1 #aib4 ,suggestions as to patties and pastry1 #aic4 ,ptisserie1 #aid4 ,larks of ,pithiviers1 #aid4 ,partridges of ,perigueux1 #aid4 ,poulardes of ,angers1 #aid4 ,foies gras of ,versailles1 #aid4 ,foies d'oies of ,strasbourg and ,toulouse1 #aid4 ,the ,chancellor de l',hpital on petits pts1 #aid4 ,,chapter ,,xiii4--,,cheese ,,and ,,salads4 ,soft and rich cheeses the best1 #aif4 ,stilton and ,gruyre1 #aif4 ,best ,english cheeses1 #aif4 ,best cheeses in ,france1 #aih4 ,roquefort1 #aih4 ,gruyre1 #aih4 ,italian cheeses introduced into ,france in the reign of ,charles ,,viii41 #aii4 ,,chapter ,,xiv4--,,on ,,salad4 ,john ,evelyn 8,on ,salets10 #bjb4 ,fournitures of salads1 #bjb4 ,chicore1 #bjc4 ,winter salads1 #bjc4 ,roman or ,coss lettuce1 #bjd4 ,hotchpotch salads1 #bjd4 ,salade l'italienne1 #bjd4 ,carme's salade de poulets la ,reine1 #bjd4 ,wine vinegar to be used for salads1 #bjf4 ,chaptal's receipt for dressing salad1 #bjf4 ,sydney ,smith's ditto1 #bjf-g4 ,spanish proverb as to salad1 #bjg4 ,d',albignac a famous salad-dresser1 #bjh4 ,eleven salads of the time of ,champier1 #baj-aa4 ,dr4 ,roques' salad of asparagus1 #baa4 ,quickness with which asparagus may be cooked1 #baa4 ,napoleon's salad of haricots de soissons1 #bab4 ,,chapter ,,xv4--,,the ,,dessert4 ,carme's opinion of dessert1 #bac4 ,la ,chapelle's opinion of dessert1 #bad4 ,forced cherries sent from ,poitevins1 in #aefj1 to ,paris1 #bae4 ,la ,quintini1 head gardener of ,louis ,,xiv41 served strawberries in ,march1 peas in ,april1 and figs in ,june1 #bae4 ,preserved pines at dessert in ,paris1 in #afid1 #bae4 ,italian liqueur prepared from the pine1 #bae4 ,dates1 #baf4 ,tunisian dates the best1 #baf4 ,oranges1 #baf4 ,fondness of ,louis ,,xiv4 for1 #baf4 ,portuguese oranges1 #bag4 ,sweet citron1 carried by ladies1 to produce red lips1 #bag4 ,figs common at dessert in ,france #bgj years ago1 #bag4 ,fig-trees placed in wooden boxes by the gardener of ,louis ,,xiv41 #bah4 ,figs at ,worthing and ,hampton ,court1 #bah4 ,pomegranates1 #bah4 ,chestnuts1 #bai4 ,madame de ,svign on chestnuts1 #bai4 ,cherries1 #bbj4 ,apricots1 #bbj4 ,the reine claude1 or greengage1 #bba4 ,the peaches of ,corbeil1 of ,troyes and1 ,dauphin1 #bbb4 ,pches de vigne1 #bbc4 ,abricots en plein vent1 #bbc4 ,the ,new-town pippin1 #bbc4 ,golden pippin1 #bbc4 ,the paradis de ,provence1 #bbc4 ,the capendu1 #bbc4 ,pears and their different species1 #bbd4 ,gooseberries1 #bbd-e4 ,the chasselas of ,fontainbleau1 and other grapes1 #bbe4 ,strawberries and their varieties1 #bbf4 ,trois mendiants1 #bbg4 ,olives of ,provence and ,languedoc1 #bbg4 ,gingerbread1 #bbh4 ,the drageoir1 #bbi4 ,brandied fruits and compotes1 #bbi4 ,brillat ,savarin on the dessert1 #bcj4 ,melon eaten with bouilli1 #bca4 ,madame de ,svign on melons1 #bcb4 ,,chapter ,,xvi4--,,on ,,ices4 ,ices1 #bcc4 ,turks had glacires in #aeec1 #bcc4 ,henry ,,iii4 first introduced ice1 #bcc4 ,,chapter ,,xvii4--,,coffee4 ,coffee1 #bce4 ,drank in ,paris in #afeg1 #bce4 ,praises of coffee by ,rousseau1 ,buffon1 ,voltaire1 ,montesquieu1 ,delille1 and ,lebrun1 #bcf4 ,the retreat from ,russia and coffee1 #bcg4 ,twining's coffee1 #bch4 ,brillat ,savarin on pounded and ground coffee1 #bch4 ,the best coffee in ,paris1 though the finest qualities in the ,london market1 #bdj4 ,modes of making coffee1 #bda-c4 ,coffee sweetmeats1 #bdb4 ,dr4 ,roques' caf la creme frapp de glace1 #bdc4 ,coffee should be hot1 clear1 and strong1 #bdd4 ,tea1 #bdd4 ,,chapter ,,xviii4--,,on ,,different ,,liqueurs1 ,,ratafias1 ,,and ,,elixirs1 ,,taken ,,after ,,coffee4 ,liqueurs1 #bde4 ,alkermes and rossolis1 #bde4 ,liqueurs of ,batavia'1 ,jamaica1 ,martinique1 and ,montpelier1 #bdf4 ,ratafias2 absinthe1 noyau1 and curaoa1 #bdf4 ,eau d'or and eau de vie de ,dantzic1 #bdg4 ,patin on rossolis1 #bdh4 ,madame ,thanges and liqueurs1 #bdh4 ,la fenouillette and other lawful liqueurs1 #bdi4 ,liqueurs of ,montpelier and ,lorraine1 #bdi4 ,lmery on black currant ratafia1 #bej4 ,liqueurs of ,french ,west ,indies1 #bea4 ,l'huile de ,venus1 #beb4 ,cinnamon water1 crme de girofle1 curaoa1 usquebaugh1 c41 #bec4 ,eau cordiale of ,colladon1 #bed4 ,eau de vie d',andaye1 #bed4 ,eau divine1 cordiale du chasseur nuptiale1 #beg4 ,anisette and absinthe1 #beg4 ,cherry bounce1 rum and pine-apple shrub1 #beg4 ,petit lait de ,henri ,,iv41 l'eau des braves1 l'huile de ,vnus1 le parfait amour1 l'eau virginale1 c41 #bei4 ,adulterations of liqueurs1 #bfj4 ,german liqueurs2 ,pomeranzen1 ,wackholder1 ,kummel1 c41 #bfj-fa4 ,jean de ,milan on liqueurs1 #bfb4 ,famous cities for liqueurs in ,france1 #bfb4 ,,chapter ,,xix4--,,ale1 ,,beer1 ,,cider1 ,,and ,,perry4 ,bass's1 ,allsopp's1 and ,guinness's ale and stout1 #bfc4 ,cider1 its origin and history1 #bfd4 ,cocky ,gee1 #bfe4 ,perry and hydromel1 #bff4 ,different kinds of beer1 #bfg4 ,the zythus and curmi of the ,egyptians1 #bfg4 ,fifteen hundred years ago the ,parisians commenced with beer1 and finished with wine1 #bfh4 ,the descent from wine to beer in ,france1 #bgj4 ,the ,french beer called godale1 #bga4 ,the beer of ,cambrai1 of ,bavaria1 of ,berlin1 and of ,brussels1 #bgb4 ,beer should be light1 brisk1 and sparkling1 #bgc4 ,forty brewers in ,paris #abj years ago1 #bgc4 ,seventy years ago but twenty-three1 of whom ,santerre the most celebrated1 #bgc4 ,epitaph on ,santerre1 #bgc4 ,english and ,scotch brewers flocked to ,paris at the peace in #ahae1 #bgc4 ,in seasons of dearth ,paris brewers forbidden to make beer1 #bgd4 ,,chapter ,,xx4--,,on ,,wines1 ,,ancient ,,and ,,modern4 ,lord ,bacon1 ,bacci1 ,barry1 ,redding1 ,shaw1 and ,denman on wines1 #bge1 #bgf4 ,hippocrates on vinous mixtures1 #bgf4 ,plato and ,homer's praises of wine1 #bgg4 ,virgil1 ,pliny1 and ,columella on wines1 #bgh4 ,the ,setine wine commended by ,martial1 ,juvenal1 and ,silius ,italiens1 #bgh4 ,sand1 powdered marble1 and salt water added to ancient wines1 #bgi4 ,cato's receipt for artificial ,chian and ,falernian1 #bgi4 ,the ,ccuban1 #bhj4 ,the ,falernian1 #bhj4 ,galen and ,martial on ,falernian1 #bhj4 ,virgil on the vinum ,rhticum1 #bha4 ,the lighter wines of the ,roman territory1 #bha4 ,the earliest ,greek wines1 #bha4 ,the ,thrasian and ,cretan wines1 #bhb4 ,greeks familiar with ,asiatic and ,african wines1 #bhb4 ,greeks drank wine diluted with water1 #bhb4 ,athenus on the 1 #bhc4 ,the ,greeks had casks1 #bhc4 ,gauls knew the use of wine six centuries before ,christianity was introduced1 #bhc4 ,athenus calls the wine of ,marseilles good1 #bhf4 ,the ,allobroges mixed pitch with wine1 #bhf4 ,dioscorides says pitch is a necessary ingredient in ,gaulish wine1 #bhf4 ,secret as to the ,bordelais wine1 #bhg4 ,the ,marseillaise boiled their wine1 #bhg4 ,horace and ,tibullus on the smoking of wine1 #bhh4 ,baccius on the wines of ,alsace1 #bhh4 ,domitian publishes an order for rooting up one half of the vines in some provinces1 and for destroying them in others1 #bhi4 ,this order abrogated by ,probus1 #bhi4 ,the ,roman legions spread in ,gaul employed in replanting the vine1 #bhi4 ,the ,salique law1 and law of the ,visigoths1 as to the cutting of the vine and stealing grapes1 #bij4 ,vine property regarded as sacred1 #bij4 ,tribute decreed by ,chilperic1 #bij4 ,massacre of the officer who was to levy the tribute1 #bij4 ,passion for the culture of the vine among ,french kings1 #bij4 ,wine-presses and utensils for making wine in all the palaces1 #bij4 ,charlemagne and his ,capitularies1 #bij4 ,the ,louvre enclosed vineyards within its precincts1 #bij4 8,la ,bataille des ,vins10 a fabliau of the thirteenth century1 #bia4 ,philip ,augustus had vineyards in many districts of ,france1 #bia4 ,wines of ,guyenne sold in ,flanders and ,england1 #bia4 ,matthew ,paris1 on the sale of ,gascony wine in ,england1 #bib4 ,froissart on the number of merchantmen that arrived at ,bordeaux from ,england1 ,a4,d4 #acgb1 #bib4 ,champier as to the consumption of ,french wine and corn in ,england1 #bib4 ,charles ,,ix4 proscribed the vine in #aeff1 #bib4 ,his ordonnance respecting it1 #bic4 ,in #aegg ,henry ,,iii4 modifies this ordonnance1 #bic4 ,louis ,,xv1 in #agca1 forbade any new plantation of vines1 #bic4 ,origin of the expression1 vendre pot1 #bic4 ,adulterations #ahjj years ago as frequent as now1 #bid4 ,the ancients understood the maturing of wines1 #bid4 ,customs survive forms of polity and government1 #bid4 ,identity of the amphor to vessels in present use at ,asti1 ,montepulciano1 and ,montefiascone1 #bie4 ,use of casks unknown to ,greeks and ,romans1 #bie4 ,romans employed glass1 but a rude glass1 #bif4 ,invention of casks due to the ,gauls1 #bif4 ,ordonnance of ,charlemagne as to employment of barrels1 #big4 ,the or abacus1 #big4 ,misquotation of ,barry as to abaci1 #big4 ,the ancients had servants like our butlers1 #big4 ,business of the 1 #bih4 ,the cup-bearer and pourer out of wine1 #bih4 ,cicero's description of a supper1 c41 #bih-i4 ,deep drinkers of a congius or gallon1 #bii4 ,cooling of wine by snow not a modern invention1 #bii4 ,pliny ascribes it to ,nero1 #bii4 ,drinking of healths to absent friends1 #bii4 ,extract from ,henderson as to the manner of pledging friends and drinking healths1 #cjj4 ,analogy between the ,french and ,greeks as to mixing wine and water1 #cjj4 ,the vin d'entremets2 the wine for oysters and roast meat1 #cjj4 ,the coup-d'avant and du milieu1 #cjj4 ,the coup du milieu1 according to the 8,manuel des ,amphitryons10 #cja4 ,wormwood1 ,jamaica rum1 or old cognac used for it1 #cja4 ,practice at ,bordeaux in this respect1 #cja4 ,the coup-d'avant used in ,russia1 ,sweden1 and ,germany1 #cjb4 ,the coup-d'apres1 what1 #cjb4 ,wine used for it1 #cjb4 ,wine cellars of the ancients1 #cjc4 ,precautions as to cellar1 #cjc4 ,women forbidden to enter the cellars of the ancients1 #cjc4 ,principles of the ancients as to cellars1 #cjc4 ,an ante-cellar advisable1 #cjd4 ,salt used in cellars1 #cje4 ,the ancients more effectually preserved their wines than the moderns1 #cje4 ,wine better tasted in quarts than in pints1 #cje4 ,ancient rules for site of cellars1 and on time for tasting and racking1 still sanctioned by practice1 #cje4 ,wine of middle age best and most grateful1 #cje4 ,fancy prices paid for old wines1 #cjf4 ,no one obliged to drink on compulsion among the ancients1 #cjf4 ,irish practice1 #cjf4 ,some ancient sages great bibbers1 but unexcited1 #cjf4 ,cyrus a larger drinker than ,artaxerxes1 and therefore1 in his own thinking1 worthier of the crown1 #cjf4 ,darius's capacity of drinking1 #cjg4 ,hippocrates rarely directs water1 but almost invariably wine mixed with water1 #cjg4 ,cornaro before and after a new vintage1 #cjg4 ,his plan of preserving his health1 #cjh4 ,effect of fresh sugar-canes on mules1 #cjh4 ,pitching ancient and modern wines1 #cjh4 ,monster puncheons in ,latium and ,germany1 #cji-aj4 ,the ,french constructed their wine-vats in brick or stone1 #caj4 ,pierre de ,blois's denunciation of the luxury of the twelfth century1 #caj4 ,repast of ,philippe de ,valois and his leathern bottles1 #caa4 ,wine supplied by a miracle1 #caa4 ,the tanners of ,amiens obliged to furnish the bishop with two leathern bottles1 #cab4 ,the derivation of the word bottle1 #cab4 ,the name afterwards applied to decanters1 #cab4 ,charles ,,vi41 according to ,froissart1 was supplied with wine out of leathern bottles1 #cab4 ,gregory of ,tours speaks of the wines of ,maon1 ,orleans1 ,cahors1 and ,dijon1 #cac4 ,wines of ,rheims and ,marne mentioned in a letter of ,pandulus1 #cac4 ,henry ,i4 and the wine of ,rbrchien1 #cac4 ,louis le ,jeune and the wine of ,orleans1 #cac4 ,wines of ,auxerre1 ,beaune1 c41 #cad4 ,wine of ,chabli1 ,epernai1 ,rheims1 c41 #cad4 ,the popes drank ,beaune at ,avignon1 #cad4 ,the queen of ,louis ,,xii4 sent ,beaune to the ambassadors of the ,emperor ,maximilian at ,blois1 #cad4 ,caprice in the estimate of wine1 #cae4 ,wine of ,romane ,conti1 #cae4 ,wine of ,mantes carried to ,persia uninjured1 #caf4 ,burgundy and ,champagne in the fifteenth century1 #caf4 ,leo ,x41 ,charles ,v41 ,francis ,i41 and ,henry ,,viii41 had vineyards in ,champagne1 #caf4 ,erasmus and ,burgundy wine1 #caf4 ,champier on the excellence of ,french wines1 #cag4 ,rabelais vaunts ,auxerre wine1 #cag4 ,canteperdrix wine1 #cag4 ,this wine sent to ,rome for the pope1 #cag4 ,canteperdrix wine now known as the vin de ,beaucaire1 #cag4 ,favourite beverage of ,henry ,,iv41 #cah4 ,paumier on the colours of wine1 #cah4 ,wines of ,chteau ,thierry gout producing1 #cai4 ,gout does not come from ,champagne1 #cai4 ,baccius on the wines of ,france1 #cai-bj4 ,paumier on the wines of ,paris1 #cbj4 ,liebaut and ,patin on wines1 #cbj4 ,the vin de ,condrieux1 #cba4 ,the manner of making ,orleans wines1 #cba4 ,boileau on the wine of ,orleans1 #cbb4 ,vin de ,grave1 mentioned in #aeej1 #cbb4 ,why the wine is called ,grave1 #cbc4 ,the ,haut-,brion1 #cbc4 ,hermitage1 #cbc4 ,hermitage of ,lord ,castlereagh1 afterwards ,marquis of ,londonderry1 #cbc4 ,hermitage divided into five classes1 #cbc4 ,prices of ,hermitage1 #cbd4 ,how the ,burgundy wines got their reputation1 #cbe4 ,the vin de ,tonnerre1 #cbe4 ,the ,abb de ,marolles' list of ,burgundy wines1 #cbe4 ,the wine of ,olivotte1 #cbf4 ,the vin de ,chablis for oysters1 #cbf4 ,vin de ,pouilly and ,bucellas good with oysters1 #cbf4 ,difficulty of transporting ,burgundy1 #cbg4 ,extent of ,burgundy vineyards1 #cbh4 ,arthur ,young on the vineyards1 #cbh4 ,mr4 ,james ,busby on the ,burgundy vineyards1 #cbi4 ,clos ,vougeot1 #cbi4 ,the late notorious ,ouvrard1 #ccj4 ,pre ,perignon and the wines of ,hautvilliers1 #ccj4 ,sparkling ,burgundy and ,moselle1 #ccj4 ,the vin de ,nuits1 #ccj4 ,the ,st4 ,george1 ,meursalt1 and ,mont ,rachet1 #cca4 ,volnay the finest wine in ,barry's time1 #cca4 ,the vin de ,beaune1 #cca4 ,the vin de ,pomard1 #ccb4 ,chambertin the wine of ,napoleon1 #ccb4 ,the ,romane ,conti1 #ccc4 ,the ,maon and ,beaujolais wines1 #ccd4 ,maon a wholesome wine1 #cce4 ,adulterated at ,paris1 #cce4 ,burgundy not to be iced1 #cce4 ,burgundy at the roast1 #ccf4 ,champagne wine1 #ccg4 ,dispute1 in the time of ,louis ,,xiv41 between the ,burgundy doctor and the ,champenois1 #ccg4 ,fagon forbid the use of ,champagne to ,louis ,,xiv41 #ccg4 ,opinion of the faculty of the town of ,rheims1 #ccg4 ,colbert1 a ,champenois1 but he did not give renown to the wines1 #cch4 ,francis ,i41 ,leo4 ,x41 ,charles ,v41 and ,henry ,,viii4 had vineyards at ,a1 #cch4 ,volnay drank at the coronation of ,sobieski1 #cch4 ,beaune served at ,venice to the senators after the conquest of the ,morea1 #cch4 ,st4 ,evremond on ,champagne wine1 #cch4 ,champagne used in putrid fevers1 #cci4 ,millions of worthless ,champagne sold at two francs and three francs the bottle1 #cdj4 ,dr4 ,henderson on ,champagne1 #cdj4 ,the briskest ,champagne not the best1 #cdj4 ,crmants and demi-mousseux wines1 #cda4 ,sillery ,champagne1 #cda4 ,vin de la ,marchale1 #cdb4 ,the rich1 dry ,sillery1 #cdb4 ,champagne not a vin de garde1 #cdb4 ,old ,champagne1 #cdc4 ,jaquesson's cellars1 #cdc4 ,champagne always improved by ice1 #cdc4 ,jullien on the high price of the vins mousseux1 #cdd4 ,how to obtain a first-rate ,champagne1 #cde4 ,hundreds of thousands of bottles of ,champagne at the docks are not worth the duty1 #cde4 ,when the bottling of ,champagne begins1 #cde4 ,vins grand mousseux1 #cdf4 ,precautions in packing ,champagne for exportation1 #cdf4 ,champagne for ,india and ,america packed in salt1 #cdf4 ,burgundies so packed preserve their qualities1 #cdg4 ,claret1 #cdg4 ,chteau ,margaux and ,chteau ,lafitte1 #cdh4 ,monton and ,loville1 #cdh4 ,kirwan and ,chteau d',issau1 #cdh4 ,st4 ,julien1 ,bchevelle and ,st4 ,pierre1 #cdh4 ,great management in ,bordeaux cellars1 #cdi4 ,brandy ought to be put in in very small quantities1 #cdi4 ,extract from ,davies' work on colouring ,claret1 #cej4 ,a freer exchange of the vinous wealth of ,france with ,england desirable1 #cea4 ,difference in price between first and inferior wines1 #ceb4 ,mixture of ,benicarlo and other wines with claret1 #cec4 ,the age of wine at ,bordeaux counted par feuilles1 #cec4 ,what ,barry wrote ninety years ago on ,claret wines1 #cec4 ,names of the proprietors of vineyards and factors1 #aaj years ago1 #ced4 ,irish ,claret and ,irish wine merchants1 #cee4 ,the ,bordeaux wines celebrated in the days of ,ausonius1 #cee4 ,a great proportion of the wine drank as ,claret is vin ordinaire1 #cee4 ,definition of the word ,claret1 #cef4 ,the ,cte ,rti1 #cef-g4 ,hermitage and its division into five classes1 #ceg4 ,white ,hermitage of the late ,lord ,castlereagh1 #ceg4 ,hermitage of the late ,marquis of ,wellesley1 #ceh4 ,the cost of wine cultivation in ,france immense1 #cei4 ,the ,german wines1 their general character and durability1 #cei4 ,price of ,rdesheim1 #cei4 ,in ,barry's day the best old ,hock sold at #ejl4 the auhm1 #cfj4 ,marcobrunner1 ,rdesheimer and ,niersteiner1 #cfj4 ,julius ,hospitalis and ,liesteinwein wines1 #cfj4 ,spanish wines1 #cfj-a4 ,cellars and stock of ,gordon and ,co4 of ,cadiz1 #cfa4 ,amontillado1 #cfa4 ,port and ,madeira1 #cfb4 ,the ,italian wines1 #cfb4 ,the wines of ,hungary1 #cfb4 ,the ,greek wines over-rated1 #cfc4 ,the ,constantia wine of the ,cape1 #cfc4 ,the ,russian ,champagne1 #cfc4 ,the ,new ,south ,wales wines1 #cfc4 ,new vintages1 #cfd4 ,advice as to purchase and stock of wines1 #cfe4 ,good and low-priced wine a myth1 #cff4 ,prices of wines at sales in ,edinburgh and ,dublin1 #cff4 ,prices of ,amontillado1 ,montilla1 and ,manzinilla1 #cff4 ,fabulous prices given for old ,ports and ,sherries1 #cff4 ,first-rate ,clarets rising in price1 #cfg4 ,burgundies1 #cfg4 ,dietetic qualits of wine1 #cfg4 ,the best ,burgundies and ,champagnes1 #cfh4 ,the best ,bordeaux wines1 #cfh4 ,red ,constantin and ,frontignan1 #cfi4 ,consumption of ,champagne doubled in ,england since #ahdh1 #cfi4 ,,chapter ,,xxi4--,,the ,,cellar ,,for ,,wines4 ,the cellar for wines1 #cgj4 ,requisites of a wine-cellar1 #cgj4 ,lighter wines require a colder cellar than strong1 #cga4 ,,appendix4 ,luxuries of the table in ,france and ,england in medival and modern times1 #cgc4 ,menu of a dinner given by ,mathieu ,mol1 in #afeb1 #cge4 ,menu of a supper of the ,regent ,orleans1 #cgf4 ,menu of a supper of ,louis ,,xv41 #cgg4 ,carte dinatoire of the citizen ,general ,barras1 #cgh4 ,menu of the family ,buonaparte at the ,tuileries on ,samedi ,saint1 #ahaa1 #cgi4 ,bill of fare of the first dinner of ,louis ,,xviii4 at ,compigne1 #chj4 ,bill of fare of a dinner given by the ,emperor ,alexander on #aath ,september1 #ahae1 #chb4 ,bill of fare of the first diplomatic dinner of the ,duke of ,wellington in #ahae1 #chc4 ,menu of a royal banquet given at the ,tuileries by ,louis ,,xviii4 on ,twelfth-day1 #ahbj1 #chd4 ,bill of fare1 #che4 ,luxuries in the days of ,queen ,mary1 #che4 ,common ,council's regulation as to dinners1 #che4 ,regulations for the aldermen1 sheriffs1 and city corporation1 #chf4 ,city venison feasts in time of ,elizabeth1 #chf4 ,letter of the ,lord ,mayor and aldermen to ,lord ,burleigh1 #chf4 ,the reign of ,queen ,anne the golden age of cookery1 #chf4 ,dr4 ,king's 8,art of ,cookery10 #chf4 ,sir ,john ,hill1 ,m4,d41 #chf4 ,the great ,lord ,chesterfield1 #chf4 ,la ,chapelle his cook1 #chf4 ,cookery book of ,la ,chapelle1 #chf4 ,lord ,chesterfield sitting on a chair outside ,chesterfield ,house1 #chg4 ,bill of fare of official dinner of ,lord ,chesterfield1 #chg4 ,bill of fare of a supper of ,lord ,chesterfield1 #chi4 ,the ,french emigrants in ,london1 #cij4 ,entertainments given to the ,french royal family by the ,marquis of ,buckingham and ,earl of ,moira1 #cij4 ,reception of the ,count de ,lille at ,stowe1 #cij4 ,stowe1 a scene of great festivity in #ahje and #ahjh1 #cij4 ,bill of fare of ,christmas-dinner in #ahjh1 given by the ,duke of ,buckingham to ,louis ,,xviii1 #cia4 ,the ,prince ,regent's love of ,french cookery1 #cib4 ,bill of fare for the coronation banquet of ,george ,,iv1 #cib4 ,bill of fare for a private dinner given at the ,pavilion1 ,brighton1 in #ahag1 #cic4 ,bills of fare for dinners in ,january1 ,april1 ,may1 and ,june1 also for a dinner in plain ,english fashion1 #cie4 ,anthony ,carme1 #cif4 ,mr4 ,wm4 ,hall's panegyric on ,carme1 #cih4 ,autobiography of ,carme1 #cii to #djf4 ,fte given at the ,elyse for the marriage of ,prince ,jerome1 #djf4 ,new invention of ,carme1 #djg4 ,aphorisms1 thoughts1 and maxims of ,carme1 #djg4 ,death of ,carme in #ahce or #ahcf1 #dji4 ,carme bestowed fine names on his soups1 #dji1 ,carme on maigre sauces1 #dji4 ,illustration ,illustration ,,terms ,,in ,,use ,,in ,,the ,,kitchen4 ,atelets4--,small silver skewers4 ,au naturel4--,plainly done4 ,bain ,marie4--,a warm-water bath2 to be purchased at the ironmonger's4 ,barber4--,to cover with slices of lard4 ,blanc4--,a rich broth or gravy1 in which the ,french cook palates1 lamb's head1 and many other things4 ,it is made thus3 ,a pound of beef kidney fat1 minced1 put on with a sliced carrot1 an onion stuck with two cloves1 parsley1 green onions1 slices of lemon without the peel or seeds1 or1 if much is wanted1 two pounds of fat and two lemons4 ,when the fat is a good deal melted1 put in water made briny with salt2 and when done1 keep the blanc for use4 ,blanchir4--,to blanch by giving some boils in water4 ,bourguignote4--,a ragot of truffles4 ,braise4--,a manner of stewing meat which greatly improves the taste by preventing any sensible evaporation4 ,braisire4--,braising-pan--a copper vessel tinned1 deep and long1 with two handles1 the lid concave on the outside1 that fire may be put in it4 ,brider4--,to truss up a fowl or anything else with a needle and pack-thread1 or tape4 ,buisson4--,a method of piling up pastry to a point4 ,bundle or ,bunch4--,made with parsley and green onions1--when seasoned1 bay leaves1 two bunches of thyme1 a bit of sweet basil1 two cloves1 and six leaves of mace are added4 ,capilotade4--,a common hash of poultry4 ,cassis4--,that part which is attached to the tail end of a loin of veal3 in beef1 the same part is called the rump4 ,civet4--,a hash of game or wild fowl4 ,compiegne4--,a ,french sweet yeast cake1 with fruit1 c41 c4 ,compote4--,a fine mixed ragot to garnish white poultry1 c42 also a method of stewing fruit for dessert4 ,compotier4--,a dish amongst the dessert service appropriated to the use of the compote4 ,couronne 7en74--,to serve any prescribed articles on a dish in the form of a crown4 ,court ou ,short4--,to reduce a sauce very thick4 ,croustades4--,fried crusts of bread4 ,cuisson4--,the manner in which meat1 vegetables1 pastry1 or sugar is dressed4 ,it means also the broth or ragot in which meat or fish has been dressed4 ,cullis or ,coulis4--,the gravy or juice of meat4 ,a strong consomm4 ,dessert1 entre de4--,dish made of preceding day's remains4 ,dorer4--,to brush pastry1 c41 with yolk of egg well beaten4 ,dorure4--,yolks of eggs well beaten4 ,entre cte de ,buf4--,this is the portion of the animal which lies under the long ribs1 or those thick slices of delicate meat which may be got from between them4 ,entres4--,a name given to dishes served in the first course with the fish dishes4 ,entremets--is the second course1 which comes between the roast meat and the dessert4 ,escalopes4--,small pieces of meat cut in the form of some kind of coin4 ,fagot--is a bunch of parsley 7the size varies of course71 a bay leaf1 and a sprig of thyme1 tied up closely4 ,when anything beyond this is required it is specified in the article4 ,farce4--,this word is used in speaking of chopped meat1 fish1 or herbs1 with which poultry and other things are stuffed4 ,feuilletage4--,puff-paste4 ,filets ,mignons4--,inside small fillets4 ,financire4--,an expensive1 highly flavoured1 mixed ragot4 ,glacer 7to glaze74--,to reduce a sauce by means of ebullition to a consistency equal to that of ice4 ,well made glaze adheres firmly to the meat4 ,godiveau4--,a common veal forcemeat4 ,gras 7au74--,this signifies that the article specified is dressed with meat gravy4 ,gratiner4--,to crisp and obtain a grilled taste4 ,grosses pices de ,fonds4--,there are in cookery two very distinct kinds of grosses pices3 the first comprehends substantial pieces for removes1 c42 the other pices montes1 or ornaments2 by pices de fonds is implied all dishes in pastry that1 form one entire dish1 whether from its composition1 or from its particular appearance2 as for example cold pies1 ,savoy cakes1 brioches1 ,babas1 gteaux de ,compigne1 c42 whilst the pices montes1 or ornamental pastries1 are more numerous4 ,hors d'uvres4--,small dishes served with the first course4 ,larding-pin4--,an utensil by means of which meat1 c41 is larded4 ,lardoire 7larder74--,an instrument of wood or steel for larding meat4 ,lardons4--,the pieces into which bacon and other things are cut1 for the purpose of larding meat1 c41 c4 ,to ,lard is when you put the bacon through the meat4 ,things larded do not glaze well4 ,everything larded on the top or surface is called piqu4 ,madeleines4--,cakes made of the same composition as pound-cakes4 ,mariner4--,is said of meat or fish when put in oil or vinegar1 with strong herbs1 to preserve it4 ,mark4--,to prepare meat to be dressed in a stew-pan4 ,mask4--,to cover a dish with a ragot or something of the sort4 ,nourir--is to put in more ham1 bacon1 butter1 c4 ,noix de ,veau4--,the leg of veal is divided into three distinct fleshy parts1 besides the middle bone2 the larger part1 to which the udder is attached1 is called the noix1 the flat part under it sous noix1 and the side part1 contre noix1 c4 ,the petites noix are in the side of the shoulder of veal4 ,paillasse4--,a grill over hot cinders4 ,pain de beurre4--,an ounce1 or an ounce and a half of butter1 made in the shape of a roll4 ,panner4--,to sprinkle meat or fish which is dressed on the gridiron with crumbs of bread dipped in butter and eggs4 ,panures4--,everything that is rolled in1 or stewed with bread crumbs4 ,parer--is freeing the meat of nerves1 skin1 and all unnecessary fat4 ,paupiettes4--,slices of meat1 rather broad1 to be rolled up4 ,piqu--is to lard with a needle game1 fowls1 and other meats4 ,pol4--,almost the same operation as braising1 the only difference is1 that what is pol must be underdone2 whereas a braise must be done through4 ,puit4--,a well1 or the void left in the middle1 when anything is dished round as a crown4 ,a ,pure of onions1 turnips1 mushrooms1 c41 is a pulpy mash1 or sauce of the vegetable specified1 thinned with boiling cream or gravy4 ,quenelles4--,meat minced or potted1 as quenelles of meat1 game1 fowls1 and fish4 ,roux4--,this is an indispensable article in cookery1 and serves to thicken sauces2 the brown is for sauces of the same colour1 and the colour must be obtained by slow degrees1 otherwise the flour will burn and give it a bitter taste1 and the sauces become spotted with black4 ,reduce4--,to boil a soup down to a jelly1 or till it becomes rich and thick4 ,sabotire4--,a pewter or tin vessel1 in which are placed the moulds containing the substance to be frozen4 ,sasser4--,to stir and work a sauce with a spoon4 ,sauce tourne and velout are not the same1 nor has the latter name been substituted by the moderns for the former4 ,sauce tourne is an unfinished sauce2 it is of itself a basis for many other white sauces1 but it is in no instance served alone as a sauce with any entre or entremets4 ,velout is served with hashes of chickens1 veal1 boudins la reine1 mincs1 and entres of quenelles1 c4 ,sautez--is to mix or unite all the parts of a ragot1 by shaking it about4 ,singez4--,to dust flour from the dredging-box1 which is afterwards to be moistened in order to be dressed4 ,tamis 7,tammy74--,an instrument to strain broth and sauces4 ,tendrons 7veal7--are found near the extremity of the ribs4 ,tourner4--,to stir a sauce2 also to pare and cut roots1 vegetables1 c41 neatly4 ,tourte4--,a puff-paste pie4 ,vanner4--,to work a sauce well up with a spoon1 by lifting it up and letting it fall4 ,illustration ,,chapter ,i4 ,,ancient ,,and ,,medi,,val ,,cookery ,,compared ,,with ,,the ,,cookery ,,of ,,the ,,last ,,half ,,century4 ,the traditions of classic cookery may be said to be nearly effaced2 but sufficient remains recorded to afford grounds for comparison1 and he must be prejudiced who hesitates for an instant to award the palm to the moderns4 ,an impartial person need but to glance over the ten books left us under the name of ,apicius1#a to come to the conclusion of the ingenious ,jean le ,clerc1 who says that 8the work contains receipts for extraordinary dishes and strange ragouts1 which would ruin the stomach1 and burn up the blood40 ,one of the most nauseous of the condiments which entered into the ,roman ragouts was the garum1 by some supposed to be the expressed brine of the anchovy3 while others contend it was an acrid decoction of the mackerel4 ,this abominable sauce has now been banished ,christendom1 yet has found a refuge in the congenial cookery of 8our most ancient ally10 the ,turk4 ,travellers who have visited ,turkey and ,constantinople1 will recur1 as ,i do1 with no pleasurable sensations to the pilau seasoned with this acrid and ill-savoured preparation4 ,though the feast of ,trimalchio1 so graphically told in the pages of ,petronius1 is somewhat overcharged1 and too ,asiatic in style and taste to be true to the letter1 yet it gives an idea of the domestic economy of the ,romans1 and supports the opinion as to the superiority of modern cookery2 but if more positive evidence were wanting in support of these views1 it might be found in a passage of ,macrobius1 the description of a supper given by ,lentulus4 ,for the first course1 says the officer of the household of ,theodosius1 there were sea hedge hogs1 raw oysters1 and asparagus2 for the second1 a fat fowl1 with another plate of oysters and shell fish1 several species of dates1 fig-peckers1 roebuck1 and wild boar1 fowls encrusted with paste1 and the purple shell fish1 then esteemed so great a delicacy4 ,the third course was composed of a wild boar's head1 of ducks1 of a compte of river birds1 of leverets1 roast fowl1 and ,ancona cakes1 called panes picences1 which must have somewhat resembled ,yorkshire pudding4 ,there is one secret1 however1 which we may well desire to learn from the ,romans1 namely1 the manner of preserving oysters alive1 in any journey however long or however distant4 ,the possession of this secret is the more extraordinary1 as it is well known that a shower of rain will kill oysters subjected to its influence1 or the smallest grain of quick lime destroy their vitality4#b ,it will be seen from what ,i have stated1 that epicurism is an ancient vice2 but all the ,french authorities1 nevertheless1 agree in thinking that the ,greeks and ,romans1 notwithstanding their luxury and civilization1 were mere children in the preparation of their viands4 ,the reason of this1 says ,carme1 is1 that they sacrificed too much to sugars1 fruits and flowers1 and that they had not the colonial spices and learned sauces of medival and modern cookery4 ,it is true that the 8officers of the mouth0 of ,lucullus and ,pompey were possessed of secrets to stimulate the jaded appetite1 and give tone to the debilitated stomach3 but notwithstanding all their profusion1 ,i am inclined to think that ,carme and the corps of ,french cooks are right in their disparaging observations touching ancient cookery4 ,cookery is eminently an experimental and a practical art4 ,each day1 while it adds to our experience1 increases also our knowledge1 and as we have come long after the ,romans1 and have had the benefit of their experience1 it is no marvel that we should have greatly surpassed them4 ,the characteristic of ancient cookery was profusion2 the characteristic of modern is delicacy and refinement4 ,in the fifth century all trace of the ,roman cookery had already disappeared4 ,the barbarians from afar had savoured the scent of the ,roman ragouts4 ,the eternal city was invested1 and her kitchen destroyed4 ,the consecutive incursions of hordes of barbarous tribes and nations had put out at once the light of science and the fire of cookery4 ,darkness was now abroad1 and the 8glory0 of the culinary art was1 for a time1 8extinguished10 but1 happily1 not for ever4 8,lorsque il n'y a plus de cuisine dans le monde1 il n'y a plus de lettres1 il n'y a plus d'unit sociale10 says the enlightened and ingenious ,carme4 ,but the darkness of the world was not of long duration4 ,the monks--the much-abused and much mistaken monks--fanned the embers of a nascent literature1 and cherished the flame of a new cookery4 ,the free cities of ,italy1 ,genoa1 ,venice1 ,pisa1 ,florence1 the common mothers of poetry1 painting1 sculpture1 and architecture1 contemporaneously revived the gastronomic taste4 ,the ,mediterranean and the ,adriatic offered their fish1 and the taste for table luxuries extended itself to the maritime towns and other cities of the ,peninsula1 to ,cadiz1 to ,barcelona1 to ,st4 ,sebastian1 and to ,seville4 ,spain had the high honour of having furnished the first cookery book in any modern tongue4 ,it is entitled--8,libro de ,cozina1 compuesto por ,ruberto de ,nola40 ,i also possess an edition of the 8,arte de ,cocina compuesto por ,francisco ,martinez ,montio10 printed in ,madrid in #afbc1 and presented by ,his ,royal ,highness the late ,duke of ,sussex to ,lady ,augusta ,murray4 ,this work is exceedingly rare4 ,the cookery professed at this epoch was no longer an imitation of the ,greek or ,roman kitchen1 or of the insipid dishes and thick sauces of the ,byzantine cooks4 ,it was a new and improved and extended science4 ,it recognised the palate1 stomach1 and digestion of man4 ,the opulent nobles of ,italy1 the rich merchant princes1 charged with the affairs and commissions of ,europe and ,asia1 the heads of the church--bishops1 cardinals1 and popes1 now cultivated and encouraged the culinary art4 ,arts1 letters1 and cookery revived together1 and among the gourmands of the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries1 some of the most celebrated pontiffs and artists of the time may be named1 as ,leo ,x41 ,raphael1 ,guido1 ,baccio ,bandinelli1 and ,john of ,bologna4 ,raphael1 the divine ,raphael1 did not think it beneath him to design plates and dishes for his great patron the most holy father4 ,while ,italy had made this progress1 ,france1 the nurse of modern1 if not the mother of medival cooks1 was in a state of barbarism1 from which she was raised by the ,italian wars under ,charles ,,viii4 and ,louis ,,xii4 ,the ,gauls learned a more refined cookery at the siege of ,naples1 as the ,cossacks did some hundreds of years later in the ,champs ,elyses of ,paris4 ,here ends the parallel1 however2 for while the people of ,france1 like most apt pupils1 surpassed their masters1 we have yet to wait for the least glimmering of culinary art at ,moscow1 ,kieff or ,novogorod1 or even at that fag end of ,finland 7which is not ,russia7 called ,st4 ,petersburgh4 ,an attempt was made a couple of years ago by ,mr4 ,money to get up a sensation in favour of ,russian cookery1 but the attempt was a failure4 ,it was under ,henry ,,iii41 about #aehj1 that the delicacies of the ,italian tables were introduced at ,paris4 ,the sister arts of design and drawing were now called into requisition to decorate dishes and dinner-tables4 ,how great was the progress in the short space of #aej years1 may be inferred from an edict of ,charles ,,vi41 which forbad to his liege subjects a dinner consisting of more than two dishes with the soup3 8,nemo audeat dare prter duo fercula cum potagio40 ,at this period the dinner hour was ten o'clock in the morning1 while the supper was served at four4 ,the social1 friendly1 and agreeable humour of ,henry ,,iv41 in a succeeding reign1 contributed to the spread of a more kindly spirit1 and a better cookery4 ,this monarch was eminently of a frank and cordial nature1 and his personal qualities contributed to the security of his throne1 to his successes both in negotiation and war1 and to the social comforts and material prosperity of his subjects4 ,his benevolent wish that every peasant in his dominions might have a fowl in the pot for his ,sunday dinner1 discloses a warm and affectionate heart1 and was not lost on a nation combining the greatest share of intellect with sensuality4 ,the cabaret then was what the caf is now1 and was the rendezvous of marquis and chevalier1 and people of condition4 ,men learned to pursue the pleasures and enjoyments of life in the cabaret1 and their wants become multiplied1 and their desires extended4 ,it was ,henry ,,iv4 who first permitted the traiteurs to form a community1 with the title of 8,matre queux cuisiniers porte-chapes10 in #aeii4 ,the first regular cookery book published in ,france was1 ,i believe1 printed at ,rouen in #afib1 the very year in which ,sir ,george ,rooke struck so signal and successful a blow against the marine of our neighbours4 ,it was the production of the ,sieur de la ,varranne1 esquire of the kitchen of ,m4 d',uxelles4 ,it is dedicated to ,,mm4 ,louis ,chlon du ,bled1 ,marquis d',uxelles and of ,cormartin4 ,the first sentence of the dedication is a curiosity in its way1 and sufficiently indicates the immense distance which feudalism then interposed between an esquire of the kitchen and a ,french marquis and lieutenant-general1 holding the rank of governor of the citadel of ,chlons-sur-,saone4 8,monseigneur10 says the book1 8bien que ma condition ne me rende pas capable d'un cur heroque1 elle me donne cependant assez de ressentiment pour ne pas oublier mon devoir4 ,j'ai trouv dans votre maison1 par un emploi de dix ans entiers1 le secret d'apprester delicatement les viandes40 ,the preface is not less curious than the dedication4 ,the author begins by stating that1 as it is the first book of the kind which has been published1 he hopes it will not be found altogether useless4 ,a number of books1 says he1 have been published containing remedies and cures at small cost2 but no book has yet been printed with a view of preserving and maintaining the health in a good state1 and a perfect disposition1 teaching how to separate the ill quantity of viands by good and diversified seasonings1 which tend only to give substantial nourishment1 being well dressed4 ,these are things conformable to the appetite1 which regulate corpulency1 and ought to be no less considered1 c4 ,he expatiates on the thousand-and-one vegetables and other 8victual10 which people know not how to dress with honour and contentment 78avec honneur et contentement071 and then exclaims that1 as ,france has borne off the bell from all other nations in courtesy and biensance1 it is only right and proper that she should be no less esteemed for her polite and delicate manner of living 78pour la faon de vivre honneste et delicate074 ,many of the receipts are curious1 and some of them useful4 ,the frequency with which he introduces capers into his cookery1 an article for which we are indebted to ,barbary1 and rarely introduced into the cookery of modern ,france1 except in sauces for turbot and salmon1 and in a few entres1 liaisons1 and ragouts1 is extraordinary4 ,la ,varranne1 after having given hundreds of other receipts1 consoles himself1 at the conclusion of his labours1 with the reflection1 8,that as all other books1 as well ancient as modern1 were composed for the aliment of the mind1 it was but just that the body should be a little considered10 and therefore it was1 says he1 that ,i meddled with a subject so necessary to its conservation4 ,enjoy1 then1 my receipts1 dear reader1 he exclaims1 8,jouissez en1 cher lecteur1 pendant que je m'tudierai vous exposer en vente quelque chose qui mritera vos emplois plus relevez et plus solides40 ,the first edition of that remarkable cookery book1 the 8,dons de ,comus10 appeared about #agdj1 and is in every respect a superior work to the droll production just mentioned4 ,it was composed by ,m4 ,marin1 cook of the ,duchesse de ,chaulnes4 ,the very learned and ingenious preface1 signed de ,querlon1 is by ,father ,brumoy1 the ,jesuit1 the translator of the 8,thtre des ,grecs40 ,an ,italian author calls a preface the sauce of a book1 8,la ,salsa del ,libro20 and certainly never was there a more piquant and spicy sauce than that of the erudite ,father4 ,he has brought ancient and modern literature to bear on the matter in hand4 ,not content with citing orators1 poets and historians1 he has also summoned the doctors1 in the persons of the ,frenchman ,hecquet and the ,englishman ,cheyne4 ,his comparison between ancient and modern cookery is ingenious4 8,modern cookery10 says he1 8established on the foundations of the ancient1 possesses more variety1 simplicity and cleanliness1 with infinitely less of labour and elaboration1 and it is withal more savante4 ,the ancient cuisine was complicated and full of details4 ,but the modern cuisine is a perfect system of chemistry4 ,the science of the cook consists in decomposing1 in rendering easy of digestion1 in quintessencing 7so to speak7 the viands1 in extracting from them light and nourishing juices1 and in so mixing them together1 that no one flavour shall predominate1 but that all shall be harmonised and blended4 ,this is the high aim and great effort of art4 ,the harmony which strikes the eye in a picture should in a sauce cause in the palate as agreeable a sensation40 ,there is nothing new under the sun4 ,a friend has recently lent me a copy of ,st4 ,augustine1 in which is the very same thought1 8,omina pulchritudinis form unitas est10 says the learned father4 ,the following is ,father ,brumoy's idea of a perfect cook3 8,a perfect cook should exactly understand the properties of the substances he employs1 that he may correct or render more perfect 7corriger ou perfectionner7 such aliments as nature presents in a raw state4 ,he should have a sound head 7la tte saine71 a sure taste1 and a delicate palate1 that he may cleverly combine the ingredients4 ,seasoning is the rock of indifferent cooks 7l'cueil des mdiocres ouvriers74 ,a cook should have a ready hand to operate promptly and should assiduously study the palate of his master1 wholly conforming his own thereto40#c ,all this is excellent in its way4 ,it is rare to find history1 metaphysics and chemistry1 the tone of a man of the world1 the taste of an erudite classic1 and the talent of a really good cook1 so happily blended4 ,father ,brumoy is the very opposite of that ,greek cook1 of whom ,pausanias makes mention1 whom all the world praised for his running1 but whom no one praised for his ragouts3 for in the three volumes now before me there are a variety of admirable receipts1 which have made the stock in trade of many cookery books more vaunted and better known than ,father ,brumoy's4 ,the 8,dons de ,comus0 was followed by a spruce little satire1 intituled 8,lettre d'un ,patissier ,anglais au nouveau cuisinier ,franais10 in which the soi-disant pastry-cook deals some hard blows to the ,jesuit4 ,in the 8,dons de ,comus0 there had been much dissertation about quintessences1 and the giving the largest portion of nutriment in the smallest possible compass4 ,hereupon the 8,patissier ,anglais0 says1 8,thus the more the nourishment of the body shall be subtilised and alembicated1 the more will the qualities of the mind be rarefied and quintessenced too4 ,from these principles1 demonstrated in your work1 great advantage may be reaped in all educational establishments4 ,children lose an infinity of time in learning the dead languages1 and other trash of that kind1 whereas1 henceforward1 it will only be necessary1 according to your system1 to give them an alimentary education1 proper for the state for which they are destined4 ,for example3 for a young lad destined to live in the atmosphere of a court1 whipped cream and calves' trotters should be procured2 for a sprig of fashion1 linnets' heads1 quintessences of ,may bugs1 butterfly broth1 and other light trifles4 ,for a lawyer1 destined to the chicanery of the ,palais or who would shine at the bar1 sauces of mustard and vinegar and other condiments of a bitter and pungent nature would be required40 ,appended to the 8,patissier ,anglais0 was 8,le ,cuisinier ,gascon10 an excellent and valuable little work1 now extremely scarce4 ,there are many admirable receipts in this little volume1 to which ,mrs4 ,rundell was deeply indebted4 ,she has borrowed largely from it without acknowledgment4 8,la ,science du ,matre d',htel ,cuisinier0 was the next published in point of chronological order4 ,this was an attempt to render cookery the handmaid of medicine1 and had great success4 ,the plan1 though not new in the conception1 for the germ of it may be found in ,terence1 8,coquina medicin famulatrix est10#d was undoubtedly so in the execution2 and the associated booksellers reaped a profitable harvest4 ,the cookery of ,france at this epoch1 and indeed from the time of ,louis ,,xiv41 was distinguished by luxury and sumptuousness1 but1 according to ,carme1 was wanting in 8delicate sensualism40 ,they ate well1 indeed1 at the court1 says the professor of the culinary art1 but the rich citizens1 the men of letters1 the artists1 8were only in the course of learning to dine1 drink1 and laugh with convenance4 ,vatel1 of whom so much has been said10 says ,carme1 8had only a mind deeply intent on his subject1 you but see in him the conscientious man of duty and etiquette4 ,his death astonishes but does not melt you 7sa mort frappe mais ne touche pas71 for he had not reached the highest elevation of his art40 ,you cannot think1 you who read these lines1 that any one of our cooks of the present day1 brought up by ,carme1 could ever fall into his faults4 ,for whatever may happen1 a cook1 like a commander1 and1 indeed1 like the great masters of the art1 ,laguipire and ,carme1 8should always have splendid and imposing reserves40 ,this dictum of ,carme must be taken1 like many of his dishes and sauces1 cum grano salis4 ,molire lived and wrote at this period2 and though it would be unfair not to concede that he was greatly in advance of his age1 and1 like ,shakspeare1 seemed to be universally informed1 and by intuition1 yet on the other hand there is scarcely a better description of a gourmand than is to be found in the 8,bourgeois ,gentilhomme10 act iv4 sc4 #a4 ,the language of the art1 too1 is as much superior to the jargon of professional cooks1 as ,paques is 7the pun was inevitable7 to ,carme4 ,but here is the passage in extenso1 from which all may judge3--8,si ,damis s'en toit ml1 tout seroit dans les rgles2 il y auroit par-tout de l'lgance et de l'rudition1 et il ne manqueroit pas de vous exagrer lui-mme toutes les pices du repas qu'il vous donneroit1 et de vous faire tomber d'accord de sa haute capacit dans la science des tous morceaux2 de vous parler d'un pain de rive bizeau dor1 relev de crote par-tout1 croquant tendrement sous la dent2 d'un vin seve velout1 arm d'un vert qui n'est point trop commandant2 d'un carr du mouton gourmand de persil2 d'une longe de veau de rivire1 longue1 blanche1 dlicate1 et qui1 sous les dents1 est une vraie pte d'amande2 de perdrix releves1 d'un fumet surprenant2 et pour son opra1 d'une soupe bouillon perl1 soutenue d'un jeune gros dindon1 cantonne de pigeonneaux1 et couronne d'oignons blancs1 maris avec la chicore40#e ,it should also be observed that ,st4 ,evremond1 a man of letters as well as a soldier and a gentleman1 rendered himself celebrated even in #afed1 for the exquisiteness of his taste in cookery1 and that the coterie in which he lived were equally famous for their good cheer4 ,the dinners of the ,commandeur de ,souvr1 of the ,comte d',oloure1 and of the ,marquis de ,bois ,dauphin1 were celebrated for equal refinement and delicacy4 ,lavardin1 ,bishop of ,mans1 in speaking of the clique1 says1 8,ils ne sauroient manger que du veau de rivire3 il faut que leurs perdrix viennent d',auverge3 que leurs lapins soit de la ,roche ,guyon40#f ,the same thought may be found in the fifth ,satire of ,juvenal1 though somewhat differently expressed4 8,mullus erit domino1 quem misit ,corsica1 vel quem ,taurominitan rupes1 quando omne peractum est1 ,et jam deficit nostrum mare40 ,with the qualifying restrictions previously made1 it may fairly be admitted that it is not to the ,grand ,monarque1 but to the ,regent ,orleans1 that the ,french of the present day owe the exquisite cuisine of the eighteenth century4 ,the ,pain la d',orleans was the invention of the regent himself2 the filets de lapereau la ,berri were invented by his abandoned daughter1 the ,duchess de ,berri1 who plunged into every sensual excess1 and whose motto was 8,courte et bonne40 ,her suppers were the best1 and1 it must be added1 the most profligate in ,paris4 ,as the ,duchess de ,berri1 the daughter of the regent1 was gourmande as well as galante1 she is deified by the race of cooks and epicures1 one of whom says that the alimentary art owes to her fertile genius a great number of receipts4 ,nor was she the only female who distinguished herself at this era in cookery1 for it became -la-mode to be the creator of a plat4 ,the filets de volaille la ,bellevue were invented by the ,marquise de ,pompadour1 in the chteau of ,bellevue1 for the petits soupers of the king4 ,the poulets la ,villeroy owe their birth to the ,marchale de ,luxembourg1 then ,duchess of ,villeroy1 one of the most sensual 8gourmandes0 of the court of ,louis ,,xv4 ,the ,chartreuse la ,mauconseil has been transmitted to us by the ,marquise de ,mauconseil1 celebrated alike by her taste and her gallantries4 ,the vol au vent la ,nesle proceeded from the fertile brain of the ,marquis de ,nesle1 who refused the peerage to remain premier marquis of ,france1 and the poularde la ,montmorency was the production of the duke of that name4 ,filets de veau la ,montgolfier1 are so named because they are of the shape of balloons4 ,the petites bouches la reine owe their origin to ,maria ,leczinska1 wife of ,louis ,,xv41 whose devotions1 however self-denying in other respects1 never prevented her from relishing a good dinner4 ,all the entres bearing the name of ,bayonnaises were invented by the ,marchal ,duke de ,richelieu4 ,the perdreaux la ,montglas acknowledge as their father a worthy magistrate of ,montpelier1 whilst the cailles la ,mirepoix were imagined by the marechal of that name1 who in gourmandise1 but in gourmandise only1 rivalled the ,marechal de ,luxembourg2 and last1 though not least1 the cotelettes la ,maintenon were the favourite dish of that frigid piece of pompous and demure hypocrisy1 ,madame de ,maintenon herself4 ,it may be concluded1 that the regency and the reign of ,louis ,,xv4 were among the grand epochs of ,french cookery4 ,the long peace which followed the treaty of ,utrecht1 the large fortunes made by the tribe of financiers1 who1 in ruining the state1 enriched themselves--the tranquil and voluptuous life of a monarch who gave himself more concern about his personal pleasures and enjoyments than his royal renown--the character of the courtiers and public men of the day--all contributed to stamp an intensely sensual character on the age of ,louis ,,xv4 ,a taste for ,english equipages and horses was now introduced1 and our puddings and beef-steaks were also imitated4 ,the example of the regent was refined on and extended in this reign4 ,the petits soupers of the king were cited as models of delicacy and gourmandise4 ,the kitchen in ,france1 as in all the world over1 requires 8the cankers of a calm world and a long peace10 to sustain and support it2 while the troubles of the ,league and the ,fronde1 the temperament of ,louis ,,xiv41 and the despotic and tempestuous character of ,richelieu1 interfered with its progress in former reigns4 ,there were great cooks as well as great captains in the reign of ,louis ,,xiv41 notwithstanding the disparaging remarks which ,carme casts on the memory of ,vatel2 but a witty author maintains that the only ineffaceable and immortal reputation of that time handed down to us in cookery1 is that of the ,marquis de ,bechamel1 who introduced into the sauce for turbot and cod fish an infusion of cream4 ,the ,bechamel de turbot et de cabillaud still maintain their popularity1 though kings1 dynasties1 and empires have fallen1 and half the globe has been revolutionized4 ,in the royal kitchen of ,louis ,,xvi41 the art as an art declined2 but the sacred fire of cookery 7to use the inflated language of some of the craft7 was preserved in many old houses1 as1 for instance1 in the establishments of ,marshals ,richelieu and ,duras1 the ,duke of ,la ,vallire1 the ,marquis de ,brancas1 the ,count de ,tess1 and some others1 who equalled in the delicacy of their tables the elegant sumptuosity of the reign of ,louis ,,xv4 ,the excesses of some of the ,french nobility of this day would now appear incredible4 ,one hundred and twenty pheasants were1 at this period1 weekly consumed in the kitchens of the ,prince de ,cond2 and the ,duke de ,penthievre1 in going to preside over the estates of ,burgundy1 was preceded by one hundred and fifty-two hommes de bouche6 ,can any1 after this1 wonder at the excesses of the ,revolution8 ,the unexpected death of ,louis ,,xv4 7says a gourmand of the succeeding reign1 and who survived the ,revolution and the ,consulate7 struck a mortal blow at cookery4 ,his successor1 young and vigorous1 ate with more voracity than delicacy1 and did not pride himself on 7the words are untranslateable7 a 8grand finesse de gout0--an exquisite delicacy of taste in the choice of his food4 ,large joints of butchers' meat1 and dishes essentially nutritive1 represented his ideas of good living4 ,his enormous appetite contented itself in satisfying hunger2 learned efforts were not necessary to stimulate its vast cravings4 ,the ,french ,revolution at length broke forth1 and the historians of the kitchen speak with mournfulness of its effect on the science1 which ,montaigne quaintly calls l'art de la gueule4 ,the kitchens of the faubourg of ,st4 ,germain and the ,chausse d',antin no longer smoked1 the perfumes of truffles were exhaled and vanished1 the great and noble of the land were obliged to fly for their lives1 and too often to dine with ,duke ,humphrey1 or at best to dine frugally and sparingly4 ,the financiers1 who aped the luxuries and mimicked the extravagance of the court1 were all ruined or denounced4 ,the stoic's fare--the radish and the egg1 the ,jus nigrum of the severe ,spartans1 and the black bread of the ,germans of the middle ages1 scarcely fit food for horses1 were now revived4 ,for three long years this spare ,spartan rgime continued4 ,had the ,goths and ,vandals gone on a little longer1 says a witty epicure1 who survived the ,revolution1 the receipt for a fricassee of chicken had been infallibly lost4 ,the markets were no longer supplied4 ,beef1 mutton1 ham1 and veal1 had disappeared2 as to fish1 it was preposterous to think of it4#g ,not a good turbot1 or salmon1 or sturgeon1 says ,grimod1 appeared during the ,revolution4 ,fowls and game had become a 8sick epicure's dream10 not a solid reality4 ,nor were these miseries confined to ,paris alone4 8,you might go into a country market10 says the same author1 8with a ream of assignats in your hand1 and not be able to buy a sack of flour40 ,a return to a gold currency produced a visible alteration in the ,res ,cibaria4 ,the louis and five-franc pieces again peopled the markets with a populace of poultry and partridges4 ,cooks again began to talk in the language which the ,italian matre d'htel of ,cardinal ,caraffa addressed to the pleasant and witty ,montaigne1 language which the laughing author has imperishably recorded in those inimitable volumes1 which will be read and admired so long as the ,french language and literature endure4 8,il m'a fait un discours de cette science de gueule avec une gravit et contenance magistrale1 comme s'il m'eust parl de quelque grand poinct de theologie4 ,il m'a dechiffr une difference d'appetits2 la police de ses sauces2 les qualits des ingredients et leurs effects1 les differences des salades4 ,aprs cela il est entr sur l'ordre de service plein de belles et importantes considerations1 et tout cela enfl de riches et magnifiques paroles2 et celles mmes qu'on employe traiter du gouvernement d'un empire40 ,the oxen of ,auvergne and ,normandy were now again marched slowly and gravely up from the provinces to be slaughtered in ,paris4 ,the sheep of ,beauvais1 of ,cotentin and the ,ardennes1 were again1 as under the old rgime1 cut up into cutlets1 and the cooks soon appeared4 ,instead of serving as chefs de cuisine1 butlers1 intendants1 and matres d'htel1 they now were called citoyens1 pensionnaires1 and rentiers2 for there were no grands seigneurs to employ them4 ,for a while there was some inconvenience1 but a ,frenchman sooner accommodates himself to circumstances than any other human being1 and such of the cuisiniers as had saved somewhat from the shipwreck of the ,revolution formed eating-houses1 taverns1 and restaurants4 ,these establishments have since become the temples of good cheer and gourmandise1 in which wandering ,englishmen spend and have spent millions upon millions of money2 but it is an historical fact known to few1 that the greater number of these restaurants owe their origin to the ,revolution4#h ,the complete overthrow of the ,french kitchen1 the work of three centuries1 might have been effected at this season1 had not its traditions been preserved4 ,happily there were ,acolytes and ,neophytes sufficient in existence1 says one of the historians1 to catch and perpetuate the scientific savour of the ancient 8flesh pots40 ,in such a loss as this1 weightier interests had been imperilled than mere cookery4 ,more than half the intelligence1 and nearly all of the ,french agreeability of the past age1 had been in a great degree promoted by the ,french cuisine4 ,the cook of the ,conds and the ,soubises contributed in no mean degree to give a zest and a vivacity to the dinners at which ,montesquieu1 ,voltaire1 ,diderot1 ,helvetius1 ,d',alembert1 ,duclos1 and ,vauvenargues so often met2 and this remark applies1 in a great degree1 to the suppers of ,madame du ,deffand1 the dinners of the ,baron ,d',holbach1 and the dinners1 suppers1 and pic-nics of the agreeable ,crawford of ,auchinames1 whose 8,tableau of ,french ,literature0 is not sufficiently known nor read in our day4 ,it was at these social runions that ,french conversation1 then indeed a style parl became animated and improved by the exquisite cheer which the 8cunning hand0 of the cook provided4 ,a few hours of delightful1 easy1 unrestrained conversation between polite and well-informed men1 did more to advance the progress of the human mind than the labours of a wilderness of speculative bookmaking academies4 ,the solution of many great and grave questions--the propagation of new and enlarged views1 the production of ingenious essays and instructive memoirs1 are all owing to that elegant and agreeable body of men and women1 kept together in a main degree by the exquisite attraction of petits soupers and luxurious dinners4 ,from the moment of the ,executive ,directory1 #agie1 to the period of the #ahth ,brumaire1 all the historians among2 the great cooks admit that their illustrious art was under the greatest obligations to ,barras1 that well-born tribune of the people1 of whose family it was said1 8noble comme les ,barras1 aussi anciens que les rochers de ,provence40 ,whether as ,commissary of the government at ,toulon--at whose siege1 by the way1 he first became acquainted with ,bonaparte--or as ,director1 or as residing as a private gentleman at his chteau of ,grosbois1 ,barras always exhibited those epicurean tastes which were either natural to him1 or which he had acquired from a residence at the ,french settlement of ,pondicherry4 ,during the most ferocious periods of the ,revolution1 there were but two splendid exceptions to the self-denying ordinances of the time4 ,that desperate demagogue ,danton loved and copiously indulged himself in morels1 and is recorded to have given dinners at #djj francs a head2 and ,barras1 when in the ,directory1 had his button mushrooms conveyed to him en poste from the ,bouches du ,rhone4 ,napoleon1 who may be said to have succeeded to power at the epoch of the #ahth ,brumaire1 is falsely represented as an enemy of the pleasures of the table4 ,it is true1 a love of good cheer was not a dominant passion with him2 he did not exhibit the crapulous gluttony of an over-fed sensualist1 but he was not insensible to the pleasures of good eating4 ,m4 de ,bausset1#i the prefect of the ,imperial palace1 has handed down in his most interesting work some of the ,emperor's ordinary bills of fare4 ,they are distinguished by simplicity and moderation1 but there is also a pervading suitableness and taste very significant of the man1 and of the nation over which he 8reigned and governed40 ,m4 de ,cussy1 also attached to the kitchen and household of the ,emperor1 and who obtained from his patron1 or assumed1 the title of ,marquis de ,cussy1 has also left us interesting details on the subject4 ,one day at breakfast1 says he 7this was some time after his marriage71 ,napoleon1 after having eaten1 with his habitual haste1 a wing of a chicken la ,tartare1 turned towards ,m4 de ,cussy 7who was always present at the ,emperor's meals71 and the following dialogue took place between them3 8,the deuce6 ,i have always hitherto found chicken-meat flat and insipid1 but this is excellent40 8,sire1 if your ,majesty would permit1 ,i would desire to have the honour of serving a fowl every day in a different fashion40 8,what6 ,m4 de ,cussy1 you are then master of #cfe different ways of dressing fowl80 8,yes1 ,sire1 and perhaps your ,majesty1 after a trial1 would take a pleasure la science gastronomique4 ,all great men have encouraged that science1 and1 without citing to your ,majesty the example of the great ,frederick1 who had a special cook for each favourite dish1 ,i might invoke1 in support of my assertion1 all the great names immortalized by glory40 8,well1 then1 ,m4 de ,cussy10 replied the ,emperor1 8we shall put your abilities to the test40 ,the case might be left to a jury of gourmands on this evidence1 and the ,emperor would be convicted1 if not of gourmandise1 at least of friandises4 ,who will1 however1 deny the gourmandise of his arch-chancellor1 ,cambacres1 or of his minister of foreign affairs1 ,talleyrand8 8,the first clouds of smoke0 7says ,ude7 8which announced the resurrection of cookery1 appeared from the kitchen of a quondam bishop40 ,napoleon himself was in the habit of saying that more fortunate treaties1 more happy arrangements and reconciliations were due to the cook of ,cambacres than to the crowds of diplomatic nonentities who thronged the ante-chambers of the ,tuileries4 ,on one occasion the town of ,geneva sent to the arch-chancellor a monster trout1 together with the sauce1 the expense of which was verified by the ,cour des ,comptes as amounting to #fjjj francs1 or #bdjl4 of our money4 ,a rare epoch in the history of cookery was the publication of the first number of the 8,almanach des ,gourmands10 which appeared in the beginning of the year #ahjc1 and which the late ,duke of ,york called the most delightful book that was ever printed4 ,the sale of this work was prodigious4 #bb1jjj copies of the four first years were speedily disposed of1 and the work subsequently went through new editions4 ,as the book is very scarce everywhere1 and not to be found in ,england1 ,i may be pardoned for dwelling on it4 ,gastronomy became the fashion of that day4 ,every one spoke on the subject2 many wrote on it4 ,cookery passed from the kitchen to the shop1 from the shop to the counting-house1 from the counting-house to the studies of lawyers and physicians2 thence to the salons and cabinets of ladies and statesmen4 ,the object of life1 according1 at least1 to our simple ,english notions1 seemed reversed3 people in ,england eat to live2 in ,france1 they appeared to live only to eat4 ,this was in consonance with ,french character and practice4 ,to return1 however1 to the 8,almanach des ,gourmands40 ,each volume contained an almanac for the year in which it was published1 and a species of nutritive itinerary of the different traiteurs1 rotisseurs1 restaurateurs1 pork-men1 poulterers1 butchers1 bakers1 provision1 sauce1 and spice shops1 milkmen1 oilmen1 c4 ,nor were the cafs1 limonadiers1 glaciers1 nor wine and liqueur merchants neglected2 for ample and amusing accounts of almost all the principal magasins de comestibles are given4 ,the volumes are generally written in a playful1 humorous style1 and occasionally indicate originality and research4 ,the first four numbers are by far the best1 though there are passages in the seventh1 eighth1 and ninth equal to anything which appeared in the preceding numbers4 ,the author and editor was ,grimod de la ,reyniere4 ,his father1 a fermier gnral was choked1 in #aged1 by attempting to swallow rather too voraciously a slice of a pt de foies gras4 ,the son inherited the hereditary passion for the pleasures of the table1 joined to a sprightly yet quaint humour1 which rendered him a general favourite4 ,it must be admitted1 that while he inspired a taste for cookery1 he ennobled its language4 ,as a specimen of his manner1 take a short extract from the second volume1 under the head of the health of cooks4 8,the finger of a good cook should alternate perpetually between the stewpan and his mouth1 and it is only thus in tasting every moment his ragouts1 that he can hit upon the precise medium4 ,his palate should therefore have an extreme delicacy1 and be in some sort virgin1 in order that the slightest trifle may stimulate it1 and thus forewarn him of its faults4 ,but the continual odour of ovens--the necessity under which a cook lies to drink often1 and sometimes of bad wine1 the vapour of charcoal1 the accumulation of bile1 and many other things1 each and all contribute to interfere with his organs of sense1 and most quickly to derange and alter his sense of taste4 ,his palate becomes indurated2 he has no longer that tact1 that finesse1 that exquisite sensibility1 on which depends susceptibility of taste4 ,his palate at length becomes case-hardened4 ,the only means of restoring to him that flower which he has lost 7cette fleur qu'il a perdue71 and recruiting his strength1 his suppleness1 and his delicatesse1 is to purge him1 despite of any resistance he may be induced to make2 for there are cooks deaf to the voice of glory1 who see no need to take physic when they are in health4 ,oh1 ye then who wish to enjoy at your daily board delicate and recherch fare1 cause your cooks to be purged frequently 7faites purger souvent vos cuisiniers71 for there is no other means to accomplish your wishes40 ,in another volume1 published in #ahjf1 the author says that in ,riom1 in ,auvergne1 there was an innkeeper named ,simon1 who had a special talent for dressing frogs4 ,the process of feeding and dressing them is given in detail1 admirably and graphically told1 but at far too great a length to extract4 8,what proves the goodness of the dish1 and the impossibility of counterfeiting it10 says ,grimod1 8is1 that the author has gained #bjj1jjj francs at this art1 though he gives you for #bd sous a dish containing three dozen of frogs40 ,the three 8,frres ,provenceaux10 we learn in the same volume1 were even thus early renowned for ,provenal ragouts1 and1 above all1 for their ,brandades de ,merluche2 and the veal of ,pontoise was then1 as now1 fed on cream and biscuits1 and carried to ,paris in carriages made expressly for the purpose4 ,it is in this year's almanac also that the author speaks of the death of a celebrated gourmand and friend of his1 ,doctor ,gastaldy1 physician to the late ,duke of ,cumberland4 ,the last dinner which he partook of was on ,wednesday1 the #bjth ,december1 at ,cardinal ,belloy's1 ,archbishop of ,paris1 where1 having eaten three times of the belly part of the salmon1 he died of the effects of this invincible gluttony4 ,the doctor would have gone to the salmon a fourth time1 but that the prelate 8tenderly upbraided him for his imprudence1 and ordered the desired dish to be removed0 7le reprit tendrement de son imprudence1 et fit enlever ce sujet de convoitise74 ,but alas1 it was too late--the gulosity of ,gastaldy caused his death1 and he was hastily buried the day after his demise4 ,let this be a warning to priests in high places1 whether ,protestant1 ,popish1 or ,presbyterian1 as to helping their guests too often to the richest part of a salmon4 ,in one of the volumes there is a long chapter on the opening of oysters1 from which the concluding portion is extracted4 8,it is not until the oyster is detached from the under shell that it ceases to live4 ,the real lovers of oysters 7such1 for example1 as the late ,m4 ,grimod de ,verneuil71 won't allow the oyster-women to open their fish1 reserving to themselves the important privilege of performing this operation on their own plate1 in order that they may have the pleasure of swallowing this interesting fish alive40 ,it is in this volume that the important secret is disclosed that the flesh of beasts1 fowls1 and game killed by electricity1 is much more tender than if killed in the usual manner4 8,the discoverer of this important truth10 says ,grimod1 8was a ,dr4 ,beyer1 of the ,rue de ,clichy1 who deserves to be ranked with the ,rechaud1 the ,morillon1 and the ,robert1 who had so worthily illustrated the culinary art1 towards the end of the last century2 and who1 like the ,raphaels1 the ,michael ,angelos1 and the ,rubens1 have been the founders of the three great schools of good living40 ,here also is a dissertation on asses' flesh1 wherein the author states that1 during the blockade of ,malta by the ,english and ,neapolitans1 the inhabitants1 having had recourse to horseflesh1 dogflesh1 cats1 rats1 c41 at length tried asses' flesh1 and found it so excellent1 that the gourmands of ,valetta preferred this strange diet to the best beef and veal4 ,when an ass was killed1 there was great competition for the prime bits4 8,your ass10 says ,isouard1 father of the musical composer of that name1 8should not be more than three or four years old1 and fat40 ,there is also an account of a seasoning used by the gourmands of ,terra ,nova1 a small town situated on the southern coast of ,sicily1 between ,gergali and ,scoglietti1 on the sea-shore4 ,this is a white grease1 extracted from the fig-pecker1 much sought after by the gourmands of ,sicily and ,naples4 ,at ,malta all respectable families use it in lieu of oil and butter4 ,an immense number of birds1 taken in nets1 are necessary to produce so much grease4 ,when killed they are thrown1 in immense heaps1 into an enormous oven1 and the fat is thus melted out4 ,it is bottled1 and the carcasses of the birds thrown away4 ,the 8,manuel des ,amphytrions10 by the author of the almanac1 is as curious and amusing1 and a more succinct work than the 8,almanach des ,gourmands40 ,the first work of any note1 published in #ahad1 after the ,restoration1 was that of ,beauvilliers4 ,the author had been cook to the ,count de ,provence 7,louis ,,xviii471 but at this period followed the business of a restaurateur in the ,rue de ,richelieu4 ,any eulogium on such a work would be supererogatory4 ,the artist1 who had been many years cook to the inventor of the soupe la ,xavier1 that consummate and gouty gourmand1 ,louis ,,xviii41 and who had often served and satisfied the ,count d',artois1 afterwards ,charles ,x41 the inventor of the ris de veau la d',artois1 must have been a cook of surpassing merit4 ,the 8,physiologie du ,got0 appeared in #ahbh4 ,the author was ,m4 ,brillat ,savarin1 ,conseillier en la ,cour de ,cassation4 ,he had been bred to the bar1 and was already in practice when the ,revolution broke out4 ,by the suffrages of his townsmen he was sent as a deputy to the ,constituent ,assembly4 ,but in #agic1 having resisted the progress of anarchy1 he was forced to emigrate4 ,he embarked for the ,united ,states1 and established himself at ,new ,york1 where he remained for two years1 giving lessons in the ,french language1 and filling nightly one of the first places in the orchestra of the theatre2 for1 among his other accomplishments1 he was distinguished as a musician4 ,during the ,directory he returned1 and the last twenty-five years of his life were spent in the ,court of ,cassation4 ,it was in the leisure which this honourable retreat afforded him that he composed this work4 ,it is1 however1 more a scientific essay1 or a book of aphorisms1 in the short and sententious style of the ancients1 than a practical work on cookery4 ,some of the statistics of this book are curious4 ,it appears that1 from the #ast of ,november to the end of ,february1 there is a daily consumption of #cjj turkeys1 making1 in all1 but #cf1jjj turkeys4 ,the work also contains a number of witty and curious anecdotes1 from which ,i venture to extract one4 ,m4 de ,sanzai1 ,archbishop of ,bordeaux1 was an agreeable man and a respected prelate4 ,he had won from one of his grand vicars a truffled turkey1 which the loser seemed in no haste to pay4 ,towards the close of the carnival1 the archbishop reminded his subordinate of the lost wager4 8,monseigneur10 said the vicar1 8the truffles are good for nothing this year40 8,bah1 bah60 replied the archbishop1 8that's a report spread by the turkeys10 7c'est un bruit que les dindons font courir74 ,a vast number of editions of the 8,cuisinire ,bourgeoise0 have appeared both in ,france and ,switzerland1 and1 to speak truly1 there is no more useful work4 ,a greater number of copies have been sold1 for the last seventy years1 than even of the 8,fables0 of ,la ,fontaine4 ,the receipts are by no means expensive1 and there is no better cookery for the middle classes of all countries4 ,even in ,england the dishes might be adopted among the better classes1 occasionally abridging any undue portion of garlic or onion4 ,this work was pirated at ,neufchatel1 in #agih1 by the celebrated ,fauche ,borel1 employed in many delicate negotiations by the emigrants1 and he made a large sum by the piracy4 ,the 8,cuisinier ,royal10 published by ,barba1 is also a good work4 ,it is of a more ostentatious character than the 8,cuisinire ,bourgeoise10 but the receipts are very numerous and varied1 and there are no learned disquisitions on the art1 which many would consider an advantage4 ,i have now gone through the chief culinary works of ,france1 and it remains for me to speak of ,english cookery and cookery books4 ,and first of the former4 ,the traditions of ,english cookery are faint1 few1 and far between4 ,in the earlier comedies there are few allusions to the art1 and even in ,shakespeare himself1 though we find mention of barley-broth1 of calf's head and capon1 of collops1 cod's head1 soused gurnet1 and salmon tail1 of roasted pig and rashers1 of beef and mustard1 and 8thick ,tewkesbury mustard10 of hot venison pasty and hodge pudding1 and lastly 7in ridicule of foreign cookery71 of 8adders' heads and toads carbonadoed20 yet still from these names no other inference can be drawn than that such dishes were in vogue4 ,from the reign of ,elizabeth to the ,revolution1 the style of cookery was undoubtedly heavy and substantial4 ,chines of beef and pork smoked on the early dinner tables1 and the remains were eaten cold1 and washed down with foaming tankards of ale on the following morning4 ,the age of ,anne was distinguished by an extraordinary burst of intellectual vigour and great progress in the culinary art4 ,though the comedies of ,congreve1 ,wycherly1 and ,vanbrugh1 are fair specimens of the society of that day1 still they throw little light on the social habits of the people4 ,from the manner in which ,lady ,wishfort drinks1 in the 8,way of the ,world10 and the exhibition of ,sir ,wilful ,witwold's drunkenness1 in the same piece1 one would infer that immoderate inebriety was the characteristic of the time4 ,valentine1 in 8,love for ,love10 calls for a bottle of sack and a toast2 and ,careless1 in 8,the ,double ,dealer10 exclaims 8,i'm weary of guzzling40 ,the pages of ,pope throw an important light on the cookery of his time4 ,his imitation of the second satire of the second book of ,horace has a value which cannot always be affixed to his more important pieces4 ,a light is not only thrown on the personal habits of the man1 but on the social characteristics of the epoch4 8,preach as ,i please1 ,i doubt our curious men ,will choose a pheasant still before a hen2 ,yet hens of ,guinea full as good ,i hold1 ,except you eat the feathers green and gold4 ,of carps and mullets why prefer the great1 ,though cut in pieces as my lord can eat2 ,yet for small turbots such esteem profess1 ,because ,god made these large1 the other less4 ,oldfield1 with more than harpy throat endued1 ,cries1 send me1 gods6 a whole hog barbecued60 ,the hog barbacued is a ,west ,india term of gluttony4 ,it was a hog roasted whole1 stuffed with spice and basted with ,madeira wine4 ,allusion is made to this dish in ,foote's 8,patron10 where ,sir ,peter ,pepperpot says1 8,i am invited to dinner on a barbacue1 and the villains have forgot my bottle of chian40 ,it is plain from every line of these imitations of ,pope1 that the science of cookery had made great strides in the reign of ,anne1 nor is this to be wondered at4 8,la ,reine ,anne10 says a ,french author1 8tait trs gourmande2 elle ne ddaignait pas de s'entretenir avec son cuisinier1 et les dispensaires ,anglais contiennent beaucoup de prparations designes la manire de la ,reine ,anne40 ,the following glimpse at the table of the poet himself has an attractive interest3 8,content with little ,i can piddle here ,on brocoli and mutton round the year2 ,but ancient friends1 tho' poor1 or out of play1 ,that touch my bell1 ,i cannot turn away4 ',tis true1 no turbots dignify my boards1 ,but gudgeons1 flounders1 what my ,thames affords3 ,to ,hounslow ,heath ,i point1 and ,bansted-,down1 ,thence comes your mutton1 and these chicks my own4 ,from yon old walnut-tree a shower shall fall2 ,and grapes1 long lingering on my only wall2 ,and figs from standard and espalier join2 ,the devil is in you if you cannot dine40 ,the bill of fare at this time often consisted in the month of ,april of the following3 green geese1 or veal and bacon--haunch of venison roasted--a lumber pie--rabbits and tarts4 ,second course3 cold lamb--cold neat's-tongue pie--salmon1 lobsters1 and prawns--asparagus4 ,but in other months the following dishes were given--brawn and mustard1 hashed shoulder of mutton1 broiled geese1 minced pies1 a loin of veal1 marrow pie1 venison pasty1 a lambstone pie1 ,westphalia bacon1 a ,westphalia ham1 artichoke pie1 neat's-tongue1 and udder roasted1 a roast turkey stuck with cloves1 and for a second course1 ,bologna sausages1 anchovies1 mushrooms1 caviare1 and pickled oysters1 in a dish together4 ,and now a word as to ,english cookery books4 ,the 8,queen's ,closet ,opened10 published in #affb1 is the first ,english cookery book ,i have been able to meet with1 for the 8,treasure of ,hidden ,secrets1 or ,good ,huswife's ,closet10 published in #afjj1 is but a congeries of receipts for perfumes1 essences1 and candies4 ,some of the dishes in the 8,queen's ,closet10 maintain their popularity to the present day1--as1 for instance1 chicken and pigeon pie1 boiled rump of beef1 and potted venison2 but others have wholly passed away1--as1 for example1 a baked red deer1 a capon larded with lemons1 a steak pie with a ,french pudding in it1 a fricase 7we retain the spelling7 of campigneons1 a salet of smelts1 flounders1 or plaice1 with garlick and mustard1 an olive pie1 and dressed snails4 ,the 8,gentleman's ,companion10 published in #afgc1 is the earliest work of the kind met with after the 8,queen's ,closet10 for 8,may's ,cookery10 8,the ,ladies' ,companion10 or even 8,mrs4 ,glasse10 written by ,dr4 ,hill1 and which has become exceedingly scarce1 ,i do not possess4 ,to what a civilized and social state our gentlewomen had attained #aga years ago1 will be apparent from the following extract from ,mrs4 ,woolley4 ,some choice observations for a gentlewoman's behaviour at table4 8,gentlewoman1 the first thing you are to observe1 is to keep your body straight in the chair1 and do not lean your elbows on the table4 ,discover not by any ravenous gesture your angry appetite1 nor fix your eyes too greedily on the meat before you1 as if you would devour more that way than your throat can swallow4 ,in carving at your own table1 distribute the best pieces first1 and it will appear very comely and decent to use a fork1 if so1 touch no piece of meat without it4 8,i have been invited to dinner1 where ,i have seen the good gentlewoman of the house sweat more in cutting up a fowl1 than the cookmaid in roasting it1 and when she had soundly beliquored her joints1 hath smelt her knuckles1 and to work with them again in the dish2 at the sight whereof my belly hath been three-quarters full1 before ,i had swallowed one bit60--,page #fe4 8,do not eat spoon-meat so hot1 that the tears stand in your eyes1 or that thereby you betray your intolerable greediness4 ,do not bite your bread1 but cut or break it1 and keep not your knife always in your hand1 for that is as unseemly as a gentlewoman who pretended to have as little a stomach as she had a mouth1 and therefore would not swallow her peas in spoonfuls1 but took them one by one1 and cut them in two before she would eat them4 8,fill not your mouth so full that your cheeks shall swell like a pair of ,scotch bag-pipes40--,page #ga4 ,many remarks are made by our countrymen and women about the filth of the ,french1 but ,englishmen should read the following1 written about a century and a half ago1 for the guidance of their own countrywomen4 8,it is uncivil to rub your teeth in company1 or to pick them at or after meals1 with your knife or otherwise1 for it is a thing both indecent and distasteful40--,page #gb4 ,the following is the advice 8to the female younger sort40 8,you will show yourself too saucy by calling for sauce or any dainty thing4 ,avoid smacking in your eating4 ,forbear putting both hands to your mouth at once2 nor gnaw your meat1 but cut it handsomely1 and eat sparingly4 ,let your nose and hands be always kept clean4 ,when you have dined or supped1 rise from the table1 and carry your trencher or plate with you1 doing your obeisance to the company40--,pp4 #ai1 #bj4 ,some insight into the cookery of #aged1 maybe obtained from the pages of the 8,connoisseur40 ,the fools of quality of that day 8drove to the ,star and ,garter to regale on macaroni1 or piddle with an ortolan at ,white's or ,pontac's40 ,at ,dolly's and ,horsman's beef steaks were eaten with gill ale2 and behind the ,change1 a man worth a plum used to order a twopenny mess of broth with a boiled chop in it2 placing the chop between the two crusts of a halfpenny roll1 he would wrap it up in his check handkerchief1 and carry it away for the morrow's dinner4 ,the 8,art of ,cookery10 by a ,lady1 was published by ,miller1 ,tonson1 and ,strahan1 in #agfe4 ,there are many good receipts in the work1 and it is written in a plain style4 ,the author sensibly says in her preface1 8,the great cooks have such a high way of expressing themselves1 that the poor girls are at a loss to know what they mean40 ,this book has one great fault1 it is disfigured by a strong anti-,gallican prejudice4 ,an attempt was made by ,longman and ,co4 to start a sort of 8,english ,almanach des ,gourmands10 in #ahae1 but it was a complete failure4 ,it was called the 8,epicure's ,almanack40 ,only one number was published4 ,the 8,cook and ,confectioner's ,dictionary10 which appeared in #agdg1 contains a vast deal of curious west country and ,cornish cookery4 ,it is a rare book1 and was obligingly lent to me by ,mr4 ,cyrus ,redding1 who deserves the gratitude of all for his intrepid and successful attempts to introduce a pure sherry at the ,english tables4 ,mrs4 ,dalgairns' is one of the best of cookery books for persons in the upper class of life not overburdened with wealth4 ,it ought to be an invaluable book to the middle classes4 ,sir ,walter ,scott contributed largely to this work4 ,the only fault with which the worthy old lady may be reproached is1 that she is somewhat over national and exhibits too palpable an addiction to ,scotch dishes4 ,this is a prevailing peccadillo--if not the heinous fault of all ,picts1 old or young1 male or female4 8,scott's ,dictionary of ,cookery10 is a pretentious failure1 published in #ahbh by ,colburn4 ,the author was a ,scotch doctor1 practising at some small continental town4 ,the work seems to have been got up with the view of rivalling ,mrs4 ,rundell's publication4 ,the 8,cook's ,oracle10 by ,dr4 ,kitchener1 was first published in #ahag4 ,it had great success1 but never did a book less deserve renown4 ,totally destitute of arrangement and originality1 it is an odd confused olla podrida of receipts1 observations1 maxims1 and remarks1 drawn from all sources1 ancient and modern1 foreign as well as domestic4 ,it is written in a vain-glorious1 assuming style1 and filled with gasconading vulgarisms and obsolete pedantry4 ,the attempts at wit are ludicrously heavy and unsuccessful4 ,it is a reproach to the national taste to have patronized a book of no theoretical1 and of little practical worth4 ,the greater part of these observations also apply to that exceedingly indigested posthumous book of scraps and patches1 called the 8,housekeeper's ,oracle10 published in #ahbi4 ,the 8,french ,cook10 by ,ude1 8officier de la bouche10 first to the ,earl of ,sefton1 and afterwards to ,crockford's ,club1 has gone through many editions4 ,it contains a disquisition on the rise and progress of cookery1 which is not without merit2 but the greater portion of it is taken from the 8,cuisinier des ,cuisiniers40 ,the partiality of our countrymen for melted butter in a variety of shapes is happily hit off1 and is about as reasonable1 in point of taste1 as the antipathy of that choleric ,frenchman1 who exclaimed1 8,je deteste ces vilains ,anglais1 parcequ'ils versent du beurre fondu sur leur veau rti40 ,the work of ,ude is intended for the higher ranks1 and for people of fortune4 ,the book and the cook have been a little over-rated4 ,it is neither ,french nor ,english--neither fish1 flesh1 nor good red herring4 ,the late ,lord ,sefton1 who was too much of a mere glutton1 would have perverted the taste of any cook1 however good1 who had been long in his service4 ,there is not a more amusing and racy volume than the 8,original10 by ,mr4 ,walker1 formerly of ,trinity ,college1 ,cambridge1 and afterwards a police magistrate4 ,although several extracts have been already made from the book in the 8,quarterly ,review10 the following may be reproduced with advantage3-- 8,to order dinner is a matter of invention and combination4 ,it involves novelty1 simplicity1 and taste2 whereas1 in the generality of dinners1 there is no character but that of dull routine1 according to the season4 8,any body can dine1 but very few know how to dine1 so as to ensure the greatest quantity of health and enjoyment--indeed1 many people contrive to destroy their health2 and as to enjoyment1 ,i shudder when ,i think how often ,i have been doomed to only a solemn mockery of it1 how often ,i have sat in durance stately1 to go through the ceremony of a dinner1 the essence of which is to be without ceremony1 and how often in this land of liberty have ,i felt myself a slave4 8,there are three kinds of dinners--solitary dinners1 every day social dinners1 and set dinners4 ,all these involving the consideration of cheer1 and the last two of society also4 ,solitary dinners1 ,i think1 ought to be avoided as much as possible1 because solitude tends to produce thought1 and thought tends to the suspension of the digestive powers4 ,when1 however1 dining alone is necessary1 the mind should be disposed to cheerfulness by a previous interval of relaxation4 ,as contentment ought to be an accompaniment to every meal1 punctuality is essential1 and the diner and the dinner ought to be ready at the same time4 ,a chief maxim in dining with comfort1 is to have whatever you want when you want it4 ,it is ruinous to have to wait just for one thing1 and then another1 and to have the little additions brought1 when what they belong to is half or entirely finished4 ,to avoid this1 a little oversight is good1 and1 by way of instance1 it is sound practical philosophy to have mustard upon the table before the arrival of toasted cheese4 ,this very omission has caused as many small vexations in the world as would1 by this time1 make a mountain of misery4 ,indeed1 ,i recommend an habitual consideration of what adjuncts will be required to the main matters2 and ,i think an attention to this1 on the part of females1 might often be preventive of sour looks and cross words1 and their anti-conjugal consequences4 ,there is not only the usual adjuncts1 but to those who have anything like genius for dinners1 little additions will sometimes suggest themselves1 which give a sort of poetry to a repast1 and please the palate to the promotion of health4 8,the present system of dinner giving ,i consider thoroughly tainted with barbarism and vulgarity1 and far removed from real and refined enjoyment4 ,as tables are now arranged1 one is never at peace from an arm continually setting on or taking off a side dish1 or reaching over to a wine cooler in the centre2 then comes the more laborious changing of courses1 with the leanings right and left1 to admit a host of dishes1 that are set on only to be taken off again1 after being declined in succession by each of the guests1 to whom they are handed round2 yet this is fashion1 and not to be departed from4 ,with respect to wine1 it is often offered when not wanted1 and when wanted1 is perhaps not to be had till long waited for4 ,it is dreary to observe two persons1 glass in hand1 waiting the butler's leisure to be able to take wine together1 and then1 perchance1 being helped in despair to what they did not ask for2 and it is still more dreary to be one of the two yourself4 ,how different when you can put your hand upon a decanter the moment you want it6 ,i have been speaking hitherto of attendance in its most perfect state2 but then comes the greater inconvenience1 and the monstrous absurdity1 of the same forms with inadequate establishments4 ,those who are overwhelmed with an establishment1 are1 as it were1 obliged in self-defence to devise work for their attendants1 whilst those who have no such reason ape an example which1 under the most appropriate circumstances1 is a state of restraint and discomfort1 but which1 when followed merely for fashion's sake1 becomes absolutely intolerable4 ,i remember once receiving a severe frown from a lady at the head of her table1 next to whom ,i was sitting1 because ,i offered to take some fish from her1 to which she had helped me1 instead of waiting till it could be handed me by her one servant2 and she was not deficient either in good breeding or sense4 ,it is one of the evils of the present day1 that every body strives after the same dull style1 so that1 when comfort might be expected1 it is often least to be found4 ,state1 without the machinery of state1 is of all states the worst4 ,in conclusion of this part of my subject1 ,i will observe that ,i think the affluent would render themselves and their country an essential service1 if they were to fall into the simple1 refined style of living1 discarding everything incompatible with real enjoyment1 and ,i believe that1 if the history of overgrown luxury were traced1 it has always had its origin from the vulgar--rich--the very last class worthy of imitation40 ,the #bdcrd ,thousand of 8,domestic ,cookery1 by a ,lady10 has been published in the present year4 ,this is perhaps the most popular and practical work of the kind which has ever appeared in ,england1 but it is exclusively a middle-class book1 and intended for the rich bourgeoisie4 ,the compiler1 ,mrs4 ,rundell1 had spent the early part of her life in ,india1 and the work is enriched with many receipts of ,indian cookery4 ,it is on the whole a succinct and judicious compilation1 but though well worth its price1 it is yet far from being a perfect production4 ,for many years1 if report speaks truly1 it has produced #ajjjl4 a year to the publisher1 and he is said to have very liberally presented the authoress with a present of #bjjjl4 ,i have not hitherto spoken of the 8,cookery ,book of ,carme10 nor did ,i notice it among the ,french works on cookery1 for two reasons3 first1 because ,carme had been cook to ,george ,,iv42 to the ,marquis of ,wellesley1 and to the ,marquis of ,londonderry2 and had spent a considerable portion of his life in ,england1 or in the service of ,englishmen2 and1 secondly1 because the book has been translated by ,mr4 ,hall1 8cook to ,t4 ,p4 ,williams1 ,esq41 of ,temple ,house1 near ,marlow1 and conductor of the parliamentary dinners of ,lord ,canterbury40 ,the translation is very clumsily and sometimes incorrectly executed1 but as the translator is himself a cook and a conductor of dinners6 7the office seems to us new and original7 it will be more convenient to take his version of the original4 ,mr4 ,hall has at least one requisite for his task1 namely1 admiration of his author4 8,i conceive 7says he in his preface7 ,i am laying before my readers the productions of a man whose abilities transcended the generality of writers in the art1 whose imagination greatly enlarged the variety of entres and entrmts previously practised1 and whose clear and perspicuous details render them facile not only to the artist who has already an advance in his profession1 but also to those whose knowledge of the higher code of the kitchen has been necessarily limited40 ,the following are ,carme's notions on large dishes of fish1 not rendered certainly into very pure and undefiled ,english by ,mr4 ,hall4 ,the sense and substance of the author are however preserved3 8,,of ,,large ,,dishes ,,of ,,fish4 8,i had remarked10 says ,m4 ,carme1 8at the grand dinners of ,prince ,talleyrand1 that the larger pieces of cookery of the first course never corresponded with the elegance of the bronzes1 the glass1 and the plate4 ,delivering myself up entirely to cookery1 ,i promised myself that ,i would reform an infinity of old usages1 though practised as they were by the greatest masters of the art4 ,when ,i became chief of the kitchen of the ,emperor ,alexander1 ,i commenced this great reform4 ,in the years #ahaf and #ahag ,i was in ,england with the ,prince ,regent1 and ,i was there gratified1 for this truly royal table was always served in the ,french manner1 and the service of silver was so superb and elegant that ,i was struck with wonder4 ,it appeared then1 that it would advance my reputation to commence the reform that ,i had proposed4 ,what could be more ridiculous and absurd than1 for instance1 to see served pike or carp la ,chambord1 the garniture of which were composed of larded sweetbreads1 young pigeons1 cocks' combs1 and kidneys8 ,but such was1 however1 the practice of men highest in reputation4 8,when at ,vienna with ,lord ,stewart 7now ,marquis of ,londonderry71 his ,britannic ,majesty's ambassador at the court of ,austria1 ,i for the first time served the carp la ,chambord1 surrounded with my new garnitures of fish3 this large piece was noticed1 and the nobility of ,vienna1 as well as my illustrious employer1 approved this novelty2 for it is certain that in the ,austrian capital1 until then1 the ,french cooks in reputation there had preserved the ancient customs of ,paris4 ,i think that a cook can never make too many pecuniary sacrifices to accelerate the progress of his art4 ,i each day feel a grateful satisfaction in my work1 from the flattering encouragements ,i receive from the noble personages ,i serve1 but to accomplish it ,i have not only made great sacrifices in money1 but every day have meditated on some new thing3 this work will afford proofs of it40 ,the following is ,carme's idea of our ,english turtle soup1 which we will reproduce in speaking of soups3-- 8,,turtle ,,soup4 8,this soup is1 without contradiction1 the most lengthened in its details of any that are known2 the composition of its seasoning claims an able hand and a strong memory4 ,the palate of the cook who executes it should be very fine2 none of the ingredients should predominate1 not even the cayenne or allspice1 which the ,english cooks inconsiderately employ40 ,how well expressed is this6 ,what parliamentary language6 ,an able hand and a strong memory2 and then the 8inconsiderate0 use of spices is as delicately and dexterously hinted as though ,carme had taken practical lessons of the late ,sir ,robert ,peel1 or studied ,hamilton's ,parliamentary ,logic4 ,notwithstanding the dictum of the author of the 8,manuel des ,amphitryons10 that 8,un grand cuisinier ne doit point se livrer la patisserie1 dans laquelle il ne pourroit jamais tre que mediocre10 it is in pastry and such small trifles that ,carme chiefly shines4 ,his work is unsuited to the mass of even the higher classes in this or any other country1 and its use must be limited to persons of colossal fortune1 who have thousands a year to expend in magnificent entertainments4 ,the sale of such a work must1 under any circumstances1 be extremely limited1 even though the price did not amount to the extravagant sum of twenty-one shillings4 ,having now gone through the principal cookery books of ,england and ,france1 ,i may be indulged in a few remarks on the cuisine of both countries4 ,the cookery of ,england is1 with the greater part of the nation1 an object1 not of luxurious desire or morning meditation1 but of plain necessity and solid and substantial comfort4 8,due nourishment we seek1 not gluttonous delight10 to use the words of ,milton4 ,men dine to satisfy hunger in ,england1 and to sustain and strengthen themselves for those avocations1 professional1 parliamentary1 and commercial1 into which they throw more eager energy1 more properly-directed vigour1 force1 and intensity than any other nation under the sun1 not even excepting the ,americans4 ,it may be a humiliating confession1 but in ,england no learned treatises have been written on the art of dining or dinner giving4 ,we are wholly without 8meditations0 or 8contemplations gastronomiques20 we do not spend thousands of pounds in the gingerbread gilding of cafs and restaurants2 nor have we 8magasins de comestibles10 in the style of ,chevet and ,corcellet4 ,our inventive powers are not turned in the direction of luxury1 nor do we make our bill of fare our calendar1 nor measure the seasons by their dainty productions4 ,we talk little of dining or dishes1 however much the most luxurious and sensual among us may think about it4 ,we can knead and bake1 and roast and boil1 and stew plain food as well1 perhaps better1 than our livelier neighbours2 but we are not so expert in petits plats1 in entres1 entremets1 and ragouts1 and are therefore justly obnoxious to the pert remark of ,voltaire1 that though we have twenty-four religions1 we have but one sauce4 ,we can compare1 combine and search out causes in morals1 science1 and legislation1 but we have given no heed to the canons or combinations of cookery4 ,we have given birth to a ,bacon1 a ,locke1 a ,shakespeare1 a ,milton1 a ,watt2 but we are without a ,vatel1 a ,bechamel1 a ,laguipierre1 a ,beauvilliers1 or a ,carme4 ,we have perfected railroads1 steam-boats1 and canals1 but we cannot make a suprme de volaille in perfection1 nor arrange des petits choux en profiteroles4 ,we have produced the best quadrants1 the best sextants1 the best achromatic telescopes1 and the best chronometers2 but the truffles we grow in ,derbyshire and ,hampshire are pale and flavourless1 and we cannot make larks au gratin4 ,we have built the best steam-ships1 the best steam-carriages1 the best vehicles of every description for draught1 business1 pleasure1 and amusement2 but we cannot fatten frogs with the science of a ,simon1 and we do not render our mutton tender by electricity4 ,we have beaten the nations of the earth in fabrics of linen1 woollen1 and cotton2 but we are ignorant of epigrams of lamb1 and know nothing of salpicons la ,vnetienne4 ,we have invented the safety-lamp1 the stocking-frame1 and the spinning-jenny2 but we hopelessly try our hands at filets de lapereaux en turban1 and ignominiously fail in salmis of partridge la bourguinote4 ,we have excelled in everything requiring a union of enterprise1 energy1 perseverance1 and wealth2 but we have no pts de foies-gras of home invention1 and no terrines de ,nerac4 ,we have discovered and planted colonies which will perpetuate our name1 our language1 our literature1 and our free institutions1 to the last syllable of recorded time2 but we cannot make velouts of vegetables1 nor haricots blancs la matre d'htel4 ,we have given liberty to the slave1 and preached the pure word of the gospel to the nations subjected to our dominion and sway2 but we still eat butter badly melted with our roast veal1 and we have not invented three hundred and sixty-four ways to dress eggs4 ,our schoolmaster has indeed been 8long abroad20 but though he has so far yielded to innovation and reform as to cast off the cauliflower wig of the time of the great ,busby1 yet he will not hear of chouf-leurs au gratin or au jus1 but will still eat his esculent boiled hard in plain water4 ,but a truce with comparisons1 which are somewhat odious4 ,mankind undoubtedly owe to our neighbours many ingenious culinary processes by which the productions of nature are artfully and pleasantly disguised--many delicate combinations of sauces by which the palate is alternately stimulated and palled2 but though we are indebted to the ,french for these nick-nackeries--though we owe to them hats and hair-powder1 bon-bons and busks1 caps and crinolines1 stays and swaddling-clothes1 sabots1 wigs1 and waistcoats1 filigrams and foulardes1 gold thread1 gloves1 and the guillotine--yet the world is but little their debtor in any invention which does not turn on vanity1 epicurism1 or sensuality4 ,they are a people who1 according to their own historian1 ,de ,thou1 discovered how to make tapestry before they had learned how to make broad cloth4 ,the metropolis of ,england exceeds that of ,france in extent and population2 it commands a greater supply of all articles of consumption1 and contains a greater number and variety of markets1 which are better supplied4 ,there are also some articles of meat and some articles of cookery in which ,england exceeds ,france4 ,though we are also undoubtedly inferior to the ,gauls in the articles of veal and fowl1 yet we greatly surpass them in mutton1 produce better beef1 lamb1 and pork1 and are immeasurably superior both in the quantity and quality of our fish1 our venison1 and our game4 ,this was admitted by ,st4 ,evremond nearly two hundred years ago in some stanzas1 entitled 8,les ,avantages de l',angleterre10 wherein he says-- 8,roche-guyon1 ,bene1 verfine1 ,ne vantez plus votre lapin2 ,windsor en fournit la cuisine ,d'un fumet encore plus fin40 ,in the same poem he alludes to the profuse supply of woodcocks1 snipe1 pheasant1 and larks1 and to the fine flavour and colour of the ,bath mutton4 ,it is in fish1 however1 that we have been always most pre-eminent4 ,the turbot brought to ,billingsgate in large quantities from the sand-banks1 on the coast of ,holland and ,st4 ,george's ,channel1 sufficiently attest our energy and enterprise4 ,the coast of ,holland1 and the sea beyond our western coast1 are as open to the ,french as to the ,british1 yet when has any ,paris market disclosed such a supply of fish as may be seen daily at ,billingsgate1 even after the hundreds of thousands of retail fishmongers have been supplied4 ,in a few soups1 such as turtle1 which we possess in the greatest perfection1 owing to our colonial trade1 and ox tail1 mock turtle1 giblet1 hare1 pea1 and mutton broth1 we also surpass the ,french--but in the making of the latter admirable broth for invalids1 there is still much to desire at coffee-houses and clubs4 ,there is scarcely known a public establishment where it may be eaten in perfection1 excepting at ,brooke's in ,st4 ,james's-street4 ,it were most desirable that we should learn how to make a ,french bouillon or a lait de poule1 for here indeed we are ignorant and at fault4 ,in the boiling of all plain fish we surpass our neighbours4 ,there is nothing in ,paris equal to a first-rate ,english turbot1 cod-fish1 haddock1 john-dorey1 or ,southampton water or ,severn salmon1 but the sauces used for these fishes in ,france are infinitely preferable4 ,it is a remark of the late ,lady ,holland1 that no fish should be eaten with another1 and1 therefore1 lobster sauce was excluded from her table4 ,dutch sauce is unquestionably more favourable to the flavour of all boiled fish4 ,the ,french certainly beat us in sturgeon cutlets1 filets de sole1 and bchamels of fish4 ,the oysters of ,cancale1 of ,etretat1 of ,ostend1 and ,marenne1 are equal1 if not superior1 to the generality of ,english oysters1 because they are less artificially fed1 and have not their flavour washed away4 ,but if the ,london tradesmen would spare their oatmeal and fresh water1 the ,milton native oyster would be found superior to its ,gallic brother4 ,in other shell-fish1 also1 we have a decided superiority4 ,the corpulent1 respectable1 full-fed crab is almost unknown to the ,gauls1 and they have but a small quantity of lobsters and prawns1 but they cultivate the smaller cray-fish in great quantities--a fish which is not common in ,england4 ,nor is there anything in ,french cookery equal to our barons of beef1 our noble sirloins1 our exquisite haunches1 and saddles1 and legs1 and loins of ,southdown mutton2 our noble rounds of boiled beef1 and those prime five guinea haunches of venison1 which one sees from ,june till ,september1 at the establishments of the ,messrs4 ,grove1 at ,charing ,cross and ,bond ,street4 ,in cutlets of all kinds1 in fricasses1 in ragouts1 in salmis1 quenelles1 pures1 filets1 and more especially in the dressing of vegetables1 our neighbours surpass us2 but we roast our game more perfectly1 and can hash mutton and venison better than any one of the myriads of ,french cooks4 ,in bread1 cream1 butter1 eggs1 whether with reference to size or freshness1 ,england is not to compare with ,france2 and a ,french poularde of ,la ,bresse or du ,mans is worth all the ,dorking fowl hatched since the time of the deluge4 ,though1 therefore1 the ,french cuisine be more luxurious1 more varied1 more palatable1 more fair and dainty to look on than our ruder1 more simple1 more frugal1 and less luxurious kitchen1 yet our aliments 7with the single exception of our vegetables7 are infinitely more nutritious1 and to ,english stomachs1 at least1 just as easy of digestion--perhaps1 indeed1 easier than the more refined and recherch fare of our livelier neighbours4 ,it were undoubtedly desirable that we should learn a little from them in the way of white and brown sauces in velouts1 in the dressing of vegetables1 in the making that simple1 excellent thing1 an omelette1 in cooking beef-steaks1 veal cutlets1 and mutton chops1 in seasoning and flavouring with ham instead of with salt2 and in a more profuse use of eggs1 oil1 and butter4 ,the great objection to the more general employment of these good things hitherto has been the expense1 but now that the extended operation of the tariff has rendered all kinds of provisions cheaper1 a great improvement in the kitchen even of the middle classes should be expected4 ,within the last thirty years great improvements have been introduced into the domestic cookery of the highest nobility1 and within the last twenty years1 owing to frequent intercommunication1 such has been the rapid progress that one may fancy oneself dining in the ,rue de ,bourbon1 the ,rue de ,grenelle1 or the ,rue ,st4 ,florentin1 instead of in ,grosvenor or ,belgrave-square or ,park ,lane2 but still while anything is imperfect1 something remains to be done1 and with the continuation of peace1 we may look forward with hopefulness1 not alone to a more extended commerce1 but to an improved cookery4 ,no one desires to see ,englishmen gluttons1 gourmands1 or refined sensualists1 but only to see them adopt some few culinary improvements which would contribute to their material comfort1 to their physical health1 and to their mental enjoyment4 8,comer gusto y vestir al uso10 is philosophy in ,england as well as in ,spain4 ,dr4 ,johnson declared that the subject on which a man most frequently and most earnestly thought was his dinner1 and the great leviathan spoke truly in so far as he was personally concerned4 8,i could10 says he1 8write a better book of cookery than has ever yet been written2 it should be a book on philosophical principles2 ,i would tell what is the best butcher's meat1 the proper seasons of different vegetables1 and then how to roast and boil and to compound40 ,would that the doctor had lived to complete the task4 ,the work would have been as useful as popular1 and as well executed as the dictionary2 and there can scarcely be a doubt that it would be comprehensive and cosmopolitan in its character1 and lucid and well-arranged in its details4 ,such a work yet remains to be written1 and the only wonder is1 that it has not been long since attempted and accomplished4 ,when it is considered that no body of men in this our country1 from a parish vestry to the ,imperial ,parliament1 can meet on any public occasion without dining together--that the ,whigs dine with ,lord ,john ,russell1 the ,conservatives with ,lord ,derby1 and the ,radicals with any leader of theirs1 if any such there be1 with a good house and cellar and a good cook--it must be considered that the art of dining 78l'art de la gueule10 as ,montaigne says7 is one of the most important bases of representative government1 and it should not be without its professors1 historians1 and exponents4 ,the subject is nevertheless of a neutral character1 and ,i have endeavoured to show the respective merits of ,french and ,english cookery4 ,substantial solidity and simplicity are the distinctive marks of the one2 variety1 delicacy1 and harmonious combination is the character of the other4 ,both are excellent in their way1 but a fusion of the two kitchens1 rejecting what is coarse and barbarous in the ,english1 and too gross1 ,gascon1 and ,provenal in the ,french1 would be the perfection of good living4 ,though personally no admirer of ,french manners or ,french morals--though ,i put no faith in ,french equality1 abhor ,french centralization1 loathe from the very bottom of my heart ,french tyranny1 and think ,french military glory--which is but a velvety euphemism for ,french brigandage and ,french invasion--should be put down by the comity of nations1 and the strong will and strong arm of all mankind--yet ,i am of opinion that there is much in the ,french kitchen which might be advantageously transplanted and successfully imitated in this country4 ,but as nations cling with constancy to their old culinary customs1 and as systems of cookery often survive systems of polity1 ,i am not very hopeful as to any immediate change4 ,a new cookery book1 however1 pointing out the respective merits of the ,french and ,english culinary art1 is a work greatly and urgently wanted4 ,the ,peel ,tariff1 or free trade1 will never have a fair trial till such a publication sees the light4 ,illustration ,illustration ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,,on ,,modern ,,cookery ,,and ,,cookery ,,books4 ,i am1 in the matters of the kitchen1 as will be learned from the previous chapter1 no admirer of the wisdom of our ancestors4 ,cookery is eminently an experimental and a practical art4 ,each day1 while it adds to our experience1 should also increase our knowledge4 ,and now that intercommunication between distant nations has become facile and frequent2 now that we may make an early breakfast in ,london and a late dinner in ,paris1 it cannot be permitted that cookery should remain stationary4 ,far am ,i from saying that a dinner should be a subject of morning or mid-day meditation or of luxurious desire2 but in the present advanced state of civilization1 and of medical and chemical knowledge1 something more than kneading1 baking1 stewing1 and boiling are necessary in any nation pretending to civilization4 ,the metropolis of ,england exceeds ,paris in extent and population2 it commands a greater supply of all articles of consumption1 and contains a greater number and variety of markets1 which are better supplied4 ,we greatly surpass the ,french in mutton1 we produce better beef1 lamb1 and pork1 and are immeasurably superior both in the quantity and quality of our fish1 our venison1 and our game1 yet we cannot compare1 as a nation1 with the higher1 the middle1 or the lower classes in ,france1 in the science of preparing our daily food4 ,the only articles of food in the quality of which the ,french surpass us are veal and fowl1 but such is the skill and science of their cooks that with worse mutton1 worse beef1 and worse lamb than ours1 they produce better chops1 cutlets1 steaks1 and better made dishes of every nature and kind whatsoever4 ,in fricasses1 ragouts1 salmis1 quenelles1 pures1 filets1 and more especially in the dressing of vegetables1 our neighbours surpass us4 ,no good reason can be alleged why we should not imitate them in a matter in which they are perfect1 or why their more luxurious1 more varied1 more palatable1 and more dainty cookery1 should not be introduced more generally among the higher and middle classes4 ,the object of sensible people should be to adopt all that is good in the cookery of both nations4 ,while ,english soups1 such as ox tail1 mock turtle1 giblet1 hare1 pea soup1 and mutton broth have their merits1 the ,french potages la reine1 la ,cond1 la ,julienne1 and the various pures should not be forgotten4 ,while1 also1 the practical cook may find copious receipts in ,english cookery books for the boiling of turbot1 cod-fish1 john-dorey1 and salmon1 in the ,english and ,dutch fashion1 the sturgeon cutlets of the ,french1 and their filets and bchamels of fish should be also introduced to ,english favour and attention from ,french cookery books4 ,our barons of beef1 our noble sirloins1 our exquisite haunches1 saddles1 legs1 and loins of ,southdown mutton1 our noble rounds of boiled beef1 and those haunches of ,british venison1 the envy and admiration of the world1 are worthy of the highest praise4 ,but1 on the other hand1 the gigot l'ail aux haricots blancs ought to be made more favourably known to the ,englishman1 as well as the filet de buf1 an excellent every-day dish in the good city of ,paris4 ,in any new cookery book1 while no ,english receipt of approved excellence should be cancelled1 yet there should also be given within a reasonable compass a short system of ,french1 and a compendium of foreign1 cookery4 ,it is desirable that we should learn much from our neighbours1 as ,i have said in a former chapter1 in white and brown sauces1 in velouts1 in the dressing of vegetables1 in the seasoning and flavouring with ham instead of with salt1 and in a more profuse use of eggs1 oil1 and butter4 ,a new cookery book1 pointing out the distinctive merits of the ,french and ,english kitchens1 is a work urgently needed4 ,in such a manual of the art the readers should be presented with all that is best in the substantial solidity and simplicity of the ,english kitchen1 and all that is most varied1 delicate1 and harmoniously combined in the kitchen of the ,french4 ,both are excellent in their way1 and there are already many separate treatises on each2 but a fusion or combination of the two systems ought now to be attempted4 ,if any professed cook or amateur succeeds in causing an abandonment of all that is coarse and unwholesome in the ,english kitchen1 and in introducing all that is light1 elegant1 and varied in the ,french1 he will have accomplished a great object1 and have done the health of diners-out and dinner-givers equal service4 ,it is the greatest mistake1 in a medical point of view1 to suppose that an unvaried uniformity of food contributes either to health or to comfort4 ,variety is as necessary to the stomach as change of scene1 or change of study to the mind1 and that variety should be placed in our day within the reach of as many as possible4 ,as there is scarcely an ,english family among the higher or middle classes who does not number among its members a retired military or civil servant of the ,east ,india ,company1 or a retired naval officer or ,indian merchant1 it would be advisable to introduce a chapter in any coming cookery book on ,anglo-,indian cookery4 ,mulligatawney soup1 and curries1 and pillaus1 are exceedingly wholesome4 ,neither the ,spanish1 the ,portuguese1 the ,russian1 nor the ,polish cookery are deserving of general commendation2 but a few national dishes and soups1 which have obtained a more general reputation1 are worthy of attention and adoption4 ,cookery is1 above all others1 a traditional and practical art1 and unless receipts have stood the test of time and experience1 and general approval1 they are little worth4 ,cookery books are1 for the most part1 copies of each other2 and the first cookery book is only the most original1 because we cannot trace the plagiarism beyond the period when printing was invented4 ,but there is little doubt1 that in the rolls of great houses1 and in the muniment rooms of colleges1 halls1 and religious establishments1 would be found in vellum manuscript every receipt published in the first ,english cookery book4 ,and the plagiarism may be tracked1 as a wounded man by his blood1 from #adgj to #ahfc4 ,the compilers of all cookery books have1 more or less1 copied the earlier compilers who preceded2 and so it must ever be1 till we are foolish enough to reject all experience1 and trust to theory or conjecture4 ,the compilers of any new cookery book should lay no claim to originality4 ,they should avail themselves1 though never servilely1 of the labours of nearly all their predecessors1 and by collation1 comparison1 addition1 retrenchment1 and the exercise of their own skill1 experience1 and discoveries1 endeavour to improve on works already in print4 ,among the ,french masters in the science of cookery are1 ,vatel1 ,la ,chapelle1 ,grimod de la ,reynire1 ,beauvilliers1 ,ude1 ,laguipierre1 ,carme1 and ,plumeret2 but receipts of more general utility for the public at large will be found in the 8,cuisinier ,royal0 and the 8,cuisinire ,bourgeoise40 ,many of the receipts of ,carme require alterations and additions1 but some may be adopted in their entirety4 ,of ,carme's cookery1 however1 the distinguishing characteristic is profuse expenditure4 ,in order to render such a system not merely easy of adoption1 but possible1 men cooks1 splendid establishments1 and colossal fortunes must become much more universal than they ever have been or ever can be4 ,the object of all should now be not to render the introduction of ,french cookery difficult and expensive1 but easy1 and within the reach of persons of moderate fortune4 ,the present age is distinguished as an age of rapid progress1 and the improvements suggested now may1 in this day of easy and inexpensive communication with the ,continent1 become permanently rooted to the ,british soil before #ahfi4 ,illustration ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,,on ,,dinners ,,and ,,dinner-,,giving4 ,dinner is unquestionably the most important and substantial meal of the two1 three1 or four1 in which civilized man indulges1 and it is a meal which any healthful and laborious person 7whether his labour be of mind or body7 enjoys zestfully4 ,man is distinguished from the beasts of the field in being a conversing and a dining animal4 ,jules ,janin says somewhere1 with more of truth and less of exaggeration than he usually employs1 that beasts feed1 but man dines2 that lower animals hunger1 but man something more than hungers1 for he has a discriminating appetite4 ,dinner is an important consideration to those who study health1 temper1 and the best method of getting through business4 ,our great moralist1 ,johnson1 would never have accomplished a tithe of what he has done for his generation and posterity1 had he not sensibly given much more attention to what suited his palate and his appetite than the great mass of mankind4 ,the ,doctor laughed at those who affected not to care for dinner1 and asserted that from having long thought on the subject1 he could write a better cookery book than had ever appeared in his day1 because it would be written on philosophical principles4 ,the late ,sydney ,smith1 too1 one of the ablest and wittiest men of our own generation1 laid great stress on the importance of dinner to the proper performance of our most serious duties and functions2 and there can be no doubt that the ,canon of ,st4 ,paul's had reason on his side4 ,every sensible and thoughtful man is1 in truth1 aware how much better he is able to speak1 or to write1 or take his part in conversation and debate after a satisfactory meal1 which pleased his palate1 and suited and satisfied his appetite1 than after a cold1 a comfortless1 or an unrelished dinner4 ,the result can be explained on purely medical and physiological grounds1 and need not be further laboured in a work of this kind4 ,suffice it to say1 however1 that in ancient1 medival1 and modern times1 some of the most scientific and learned men have not disdained to write on dinners4 ,i need but mention the treatise of ,apicius1 who lived in the time of ,augustus1 8,de ,re ,culinaria20#aj the treatise of ,nonius1 a learned ,antwerp physician of the sixteenth century1 8,de ,re ,cibari20 and the more modern treatise of ,lemery1 physician of ,louis ,,xiv41 and thirty-three years the physician to the ,htel ,dieu at ,paris4 ,lemery published his 8,trait des ,alimens10 in #agjb4 ,contemporaneously with him1 flourished ,dr4 ,lister1 ,physician to our own ,queen ,anne1 who wrote a cookery book in #agje1 and gave a paraphrastic translation of the work of ,apicius1 under the title1 8,de ,obsoniis et ,condimentis sive de ,arte ,coquinaria40 ,in the reign of ,george ,,iv41 ,dr4 ,kitchener and half a dozen of his brethren of the faculty in ,paris1 wrote disquisitionally upon cookery2 and1 in our own day1 ,drs4 ,pereira and ,lankester have written valuable treatises on food1 with a view that we should employ such a diet and regimen as is most conducive to health4 ,the truth is that we must all dine1 tant bien que mal1 every day in the three hundred and sixty-five2 and1 as many of us give dinners every seven1 fourteen1 twenty-eight or thirty days1 or every quarter of a year1 to our friends and acquaintances1 it behoves us to know what to order for ourselves1 when dining en famille1 as well as for the guests who honour us with their company4 ,each country and capital has its mode and season for giving dinners1 but there can be no doubt whatever that the best dinners in the world are given in ,paris and in ,london4 ,probably if the dinners of ,london were to be judged by the specimens afforded in the most refined houses of the highest aristocracy in ,grosvenor ,square1 ,mayfair1 and ,belgravia1 in the season between ,april and ,july1 we should bear off the bell against the world2 but the general cookery of a great capital containing nearly three millions of souls cannot be properly judged by the superior cookery of about three hundred first-rate houses1 in all of which accomplished ,french or ,french-trained men cooks officiate4 ,the dinners given at such houses present the substantial solidity1 as well as the gracefulness1 lightness1 and science of ,french cookery1 and display a combination as rare as nutritious1 as desirable as delightful4 ,but if we descend in ,england beyond the upper ten thousand1 though the fried and roast are generally excellent1 the attendance good1 and the display of glass1 crystal and plate much greater and better kept1 than in any other country and capital in the world1 yet the cookery is not to be compared to the finer cuisine bourgeoise of ,paris4 ,the professional and learned classes at ,paris1 as well as the class of superior traders1 all feast at a cuisine1 which1 for its science1 its relishing and appetizing qualities1 greatly surpasses ours4 ,in moderate houses in ,paris there is far less pretension than there is among us4 ,for instance1 an eminent lawyer1 doctor1 or publisher1 will give you at a small friendly dinner of four or six1 a good soup1 a good fish plain or dressed1 a good roti1 and a couple of side dishes1 all of which are excellent in their way1 with a salmi of game and a couple of entremets quite perfect of their kind1 and this at an expense of little more than one half of what an ,english dinner costs4 ,there is on the table plenty for every guest2 but the beauty of such dinners is1 that nearly every morsel is eaten up4 ,there are a few good dishes well cooked1 and everybody relishes his portion4 ,the wines1 liqueurs1 and coffee are all good4 ,in some of the very first houses in the ,faubourg ,st4 ,germain1 at a small party you seldom see more than two men servants1 and often only one4 ,among professional men living in the neighbourhood of the ,palais de ,justice1 the ,chausse d',antin1 the ,faubourg ,st4 ,honor1 or the ,marais1 the attendance is generally by a femme de charge1 aided by what would in this country be called a parlour maid1 and who sometimes acts as the femme de chambre of the lady of the house1 if there be one4 ,on the other hand1 among the foreign ambassadors in ,paris1 and more especially at the ,austrian and ,russian ,embassies1 there are most sumptuous dinners1 distinguished by great luxury and display4 ,the great functionaries of the ,court too1 the ,ministers1 the ,prefect of the ,seine1 and other high official dignitaries1 most of whom are nouveaux riches1 live expensively1 keeping numerous servants1 taking their cue from the ,court4 ,but it would be an error to suppose from this1 that excessive expenditure is the custom of the nation4 ,far indeed from it2 for the great majority of ,frenchmen are thrifty1 and spend little on hospitality4 ,the class of bankers1 however1 agents de ,change1 speculators on the ,bourse1 railroad contractors1 and persons connected with the ,crdit ,foncier and the ,crdit ,mobilier make much display1 and live fastly1 though in bad taste2 many of them1 poor and utterly unknown fourteen or fifteen years ago1 now possess fine mansions1 first-rate cooks1 and live la ,lucullus4 ,but these men do not move in high or select society4 ,they live among speculators and jobbers1 and their tables are often presided over by some incognita of the demi-monde1 some premire danseuse of the opera1 or some jeune premire of the ,varits or the ,vaudeville4 ,the gentry and higher middle classes in ,paris enjoy an exquisite and not expensive cuisine bourgeoise1 but ,english or foreigners are rarely met at their dinners4 ,the truth is that few ,englishmen speak the ,french language sufficiently well or understand ,french domestic life so thoroughly as to relish ,french society4 ,notwithstanding the great intercourse that has prevailed between the two nations for nearly half a century1 they do not mix well together socially4 ,englishmen1 notwithstanding the extended intercourse they have had with the ,continent1 still like to sit an hour or so over their wine1 after the ladies have departed1 whereas in ,paris ladies and gentlemen leave the salle manger1 or dinner table1 together1 and retire to another room to coffee and conversation4 ,the coffee and liqueurs despatched1 the dinner circle is dissolved by host and guests either proceeding to the theatres1 or to some cercle or runion1 where other friends are met4 ,the result is1 that after from two and a half to three hours of agreeable conviviality1 the circle separate1 mutually pleased with each other1 and greatly exhilarated by the good cheer1 the good converse1 and the good coffee4 ,the parties sit down to their repast at six or seven1 and separate at half-past eight or half-past nine1 when it is not too late to go to the ,italian or ,french opera1 or even to the ,theatre du ,palais ,royal1 the ,vaudeville1 or the ,varits4 ,there is no torturing headache the next day from that 8casse tte0 wine called port1 and there has been no time lost in waiting1 as with us1 for people arrive in ,france at the very moment invited--a moment which is always considered military time1 so precisely is it kept4 ,it is a pity we do not adopt something of this system among all classes in ,england4 ,people might under this condition of things1 give two dinners for every one they now give1 and both host and guest would be all the better in person and pocket for a more elegant and temperate style of living4 ,to return1 however1 to ,english dinners4 ,though in no capital in the world is hospitality more generally exercised than in ,london from ,january to ,december1 yet among the higher classes the grand time for giving dinners is at the height of the season--that is to say1 when both houses of ,parliament are sitting4 ,the season may generally be described as extending from the middle of ,april to the middle of ,july1 a period of three months4 ,occasionally it begins a little earlier and ends a little later1 but on an average of years it would be found that ,london is filled with the most distinguished visitors during these months4 ,during the season of which ,i speak1 the prices of all table luxuries are enhanced1 spring chickens as they are called costing generally about #abs4 or #acs4 the couple4 ,fashion1 however1 will exert its sway1 and1 totally irrespective of cost1 diners d'apparat1 or grand entertainments1 are always given during this season4 ,covers are laid for twelve1 fourteen1 sixteen1 eighteen1 or twenty1 as the case may be1 though occasionally the number of guests is considerably larger4 ,at regular dress dinners of this kind there is great magnificence1 great luxury1 all the primeurs1 as the ,french call them1 all the early fruits and vegetables1 no matter what the cost1 are provided and produced4 ,green peas are imported from ,portugal1 and asparagus from the same place1 and from ,hyeres1 ,nice1 c4 ,most of the nobility and gentry are enabled to supply themselves from their country seats with hot-house grapes and pines2 but1 to such as are not1 ,covent ,garden1 and the best fruiterers of ,london are always open1 and in no country in the world do you find1 if prepared to incur the expenditure1 finer fruits 7especially hot-house fruits7 than in ,england1 though finer vegetables are to be found in the ,brussels and occasionally in the ,parisian markets4 ,at the grand dinners of which ,i speak the custom has been1 and still in a great degree is1 to divide the dinner into several courses1 but this is a practice super-inducing trouble1 profusion1 and expense4 ,these may be incurred where there are large establishments and colossal fortunes 7as there are in ,england in a greater degree than in any country in the world71 and where the object is to astonish and render rivalry hopeless1 rather than to please or satisfy your guest2 but as in the great majority of cases the fortunes and the desires of men are moderate1 it seems to me it would be in better sense1 and1 indeed1 in better taste too1 to allow of but two courses as in ,france4 ,in some of the best houses in the ,faubourg ,st4 ,germain1 fish and hors d'uvre1 such as patties1 c41 form part of the first course1 and not a distinct course as here4 ,in all grand dinners for twelve persons in ,england1 two soups1 two fishes1 and four entres for the first course are considered indispensable2 and two roasts1 two removes1 and half a dozen entremets for the second course4 ,for a dinner of twenty1 the entres and the entremets would necessarily have to be doubled1 being each increased to eight4 ,of course the bill of fare for these dinners varies with the season4 ,in ,april a turtle and a spring soup may be given with turbot and crimped salmon1 roast fore-quarter of lamb1 fillet of beef1 c42 whereas in ,january or ,february there may be an ox-tail1 a mock turtle1 a gravy or a giblet or a grey pea soup1 with a variety of game1 such as partridges1 black cock1 wild duck1 snipe1 and woodcock1 not procurable in ,april or ,may4 ,persons giving dinners should1 of course1 consider the season4 ,men of rank and fortune who keep a regular house steward or matre d'htel have this trouble taken off their hands1 for a confidential servant1 or a ,french chef de cuisine arranges with the master of the establishment or the lady of the house what is to be the menu or bill of fare2 but persons of two or three thousand a year1 or of one thousand a year 7and such persons now give occasional dinners1 vying with those of ten and twenty times their fortune7 cannot afford to keep ,french men cooks1 or to maintain extensive establishments4 ,it is therefore necessary1 unless these gentlemen be supplied by ,gunter1 ,bridgeman1 or some other tradesmen1 at so much per head1 that he should know how to order a dinner4 ,in the case of men of moderate fortune1 it is very likely a first-rate man cook1 ,french or ,english1 will be introduced for the occasion1 and come the day before the dinner to make preliminary arrangements1 and to give directions to1 and to aid the ordinary woman cook of the household4 ,unless some such arrangement as this be adopted1 a dinner cannot be very satisfactory1 and probably it would be better for persons who have to give set dinners on certain occasions twice or thrice a year1 and who cannot fully rely on their own ,english female cook1 and the professed man cook brought in to assist and superintend1 to contract with some renowned undertaker or entrepreneur of dinners1 such as ,gunter1 ,staples1 ,bathe and ,breach1 c41 to supply the party of twelve or twenty1 as the case may be1 at so much a head1 exclusive of wine4 ,in arrangements such as this much trouble is saved to the man of small fortune1 and there is no waste1 for the provider of the dinner removes the dbris on the very night of the feast1 or early the following morning4 ,why1 however1 it will be asked1 should persons of a couple or three thousand a year give so pretentious and costly a dinner8 ,because every one in ,england tries to ape the class two or three degrees above him in point of rank and fortune1 in style of living1 and manner of receiving his friends4 ,thus it is that a plain gentleman of moderate fortune1 or a professional man making a couple of thousands a year1 having dined with a peer of #ej1jjj a year in ,grosvenor ,square or ,belgravia1 seeks when he himself next gives a dinner1 to imitate the style of the ,marquis1 ,earl1 or ,lord ,lieutenant of a county with whom he has come into social contact4 ,the attempt is a great mistake1 and generally a failure2 for unless there be a unity and completeness1 an ensemble in such a feast1 it is a misadventure4 ,in a party of twenty at one of these great houses there are from a dozen to fifteen servants1 exclusive of the butler and under-butler1 waiting at table1 and where is the man of three thousand or six thousand a year who could afford such a retinue of liveried lackeys6 ,the keep1 liveries1 beer-money1 and wages of a dozen livery servants of this kind1 would amount to from #afjj to #bjjj a year alone4 ,is it not therefore folly for gentlemen of small means1 or for struggling professional men1 to seek to vie with1 by aping1 these magnates4 ,let the great brewers1 the great bankers1 the great merchants1 and the great railway contractors and millionaires1 vie with them if it please them1 but let men of mind and brain not attempt it4 ,even in the case of millionaires1 the essay at rivalry is rarely successful4 ,there is ostentation without ease1 elegance1 good breeding1 or good taste1 and the parvenu too often appears in all his disagreeable hideousness and self-sufficiency4 ,it were far better if men of moderate fortune would attempt less4 ,the success of a dinner does not depend in the least on two soups1 two fishes1 two removes1 and eight entres1 but on having sufficient on table the best of its kind1 and thoroughly well dressed4 ,better far have one first-rate soup and one good fish1 such as turbot or salmon1 than a multiplicity of dishes1 unless you have good cooks and a retinue of servants1 and all the accessories of a first-rate establishment4 ,it is within the power of every gentleman of fair means to give a good soup1 a good fish1 a couple of removes1 and four entres at the first course1 and a couple of small roasts1 a couple of removes1 and a few entremets at the second course1 and what can any reasonable man want in addition8 ,if the dinner be composed exclusively of ,english1 let the remove be a haunch or saddle of mutton1 a roast turkey and ham1 a braized leg of mutton1 a fillet or a sirloin of beef1 and surely there is enough to create 8a soul under the ribs of death10 with the entres of lamb1 mutton1 and veal cutlets1 with fillets of pheasants1 vol au vents blanquette1 of sweetbreads and such like4 ,in ,april1 ,may1 ,june1 and ,july1 fricasses of chickens1 leverets1 pigeons1 fillets of rabbits1 with quails1 ducklings1 turkey poults1 and guinea fowls may be served for entres and second courses2 while in ,august there is venison1 grouse1 and wheatears4 ,in ,september1 ,october1 ,november1 and ,december1 there are partridges1 grouse1 blackcock1 golden plover1 snipe1 woodcock1 wild duck1 hare1 and pheasants2 while in the two last months of ,november and ,december1 ox-tail1 mulligatawney1 mock turtle1 and giblet soups may do frequent duty1 with turbot1 crimped cod1 haddock1 and brill for fish4 ,for entres in the winter months there may be pork cutlets1 quenelles1 mutton cutlets1 rabbit curries1 c4 ,i am now speaking1 of course1 of dinners of some pretension2 but there are every day given in ,england those quiet little family dinners of six or eight persons1 which are the perfection of social life4 ,it is said that the number present at these dinners should not be less than the graces1 nor more than the muses4 ,there is a good deal of truth in this4 ,conversation cannot be general or quite unrestrained1 where the company exceeds eight or ten4 ,in a party of sixteen or twenty you are forced to converse with your neighbours on either side1 or with the gentleman opposite to you4 ,the master of a feast should take care in selecting his guests1 whether in a large or in a small party1 but more particularly in a small party--that they should be people of analogous tastes4 ,in most cases it would not very well answer to place a ,puritan side by side with a ,high ,churchman--or a peace-at-any-price man next an engineer officer1 earnest in the pursuit of his profession4 ,an ,allopathist should not be united en petit comit with a ,homopathist2 nor a whig of the old school with a violent radical4 ,the great object is to pair amiable1 pleasant and agreeable men1 who have travelled much and lived in the world1 and pleasant and agreeable women4 ,a good talker at a dinner-table is a great acquisition1 but good listeners are not less essential4 ,but your good talker should be an urbane and polite man1 not bumptious and underbred4 ,barristers and travelled physicians are generally excellent company1 though the former not seldom monopolise too much of the conversation1 and give it occasionally a shoppy air4 ,if the object of dining be to secure the greatest quantity of health and enjoyment1 such results are more likely to be attained at small than at those set and formal dinners1 where people are kept--to use the language of the late ,mr4 ,walker1 in 8stately durance40 ,the essence of a good dinner1 as the author of the 8,original0 sensibly remarks1 is 8that it should be without ceremony1 and that you should have what you want when you want it40 ,this you cannot have at a ceremonial and formal ,london dinner1 where you are encumbered with help1 and are not allowed to do anything for yourself4 ,at small every-day dinners1 you may have every thing upon the table that is wanted at the time2 thus for salmon you would have lobster1 or parsley and butter1 or cockle sauce1 as you might prefer1 with cayenne1 chili vinegar1 sliced cucumber1 c4 ,the comfort of this is great1 as the guests pass the sauces at once and instantaneously to each other4 ,at great dinners this is never done4 ,everything is handed round by a file of liveried servants1 who are continually changing the courses and taking up and laying down dishes1 to the discomfort of the guests4 ,yet it is this dull1 comfortless1 stately and ostentatious formality that every one is striving at4 8,state10 as ,mr4 ,walker observes1 8without the machinery of state1 is of all states the worst20 and it is detestable to see men with a couple of thousands a year1 and a couple of men servants1 and an ,english female cook1 imitating the style of living of men of thirty thousand a year1 with a dozen male servants4 ,i would not have it inferred1 that a large income and a first-rate man cook are indispensable to the giving of good dinners4 ,there are now several ,schools of ,cookery in ,london1 from some of which one can obtain regularly educated female cooks1 and it is quite possible1 with small establishments and small fortunes1 to give comfortable and even elegant dinners1 in which the ,english style shall be diversified by the ,french4 ,but in these small establishments too much should not be attempted4 ,everything savouring of too much state and over-display should be discarded4 ,the dishes should be choice1 but limited in number1 and the wines more remarkable for their excellence than their variety4 ,it is the exquisite quality of a dinner or a wine that pleases us1 not the number of dishes1 nor the number of vintages4 ,the late ,earl of ,dudley was wont to say1 8that a good soup1 a small turbot1 a neck of venison1 and ducklings with green peas1 or chicken with asparagus1 or an apricot tart1 was a dinner for an emperor60 and to my thinking it was far too good for most emperors past and present4 ,i have already observed1 that in my mind the really fine cuisine bourgeoise of good houses in ,france is perfection1 and ,i do not despair of seeing such cookery infinitely more generally used in ,england than it ever has been2 but the more expensive ,french cookery is never likely to become generally prevalent amongst us4 ,carme tells us that at grand balls and dinners he used to roast turkeys only for his soups and consomms1 and he talks as volubly of two1 four1 and half-a-dozen fowls1 as though they were had for eighteen pence a piece1 instead of costing at the cheapest rate and time #es4 #f;d4 or #fs4 a couple4 ,a system of cookery so expensive as this can never become general in any country4 ,carme tells how he formed his consomms1 and though doubtless they were better flavoured and presented a more golden appearance than the generality of consomms1 yet1 to use the language of ,burke1 8,they were soon exhaled1 and vanished hence-- ,a short1 sweet odour at a vast expense40 ,there are1 however1 many things in the ,french kitchen which are daily coming into more general use4 ,first1 there is the pot au feu for the family broth2 there are the various pures for fowl1 rabbit1 and vegetable soups of all kinds1 from ,jerusalem artichokes1 carrots1 and turnips1 to onions and cerfeuil4 ,thirdly1 there are the various sauces of blanc1 espagnole1 roux blanc1 velout1 sauce la creme1 and poivrade1 which are now of much more common usage than they were thirty1 twenty1 or even ten years ago4 ,we are every day also getting more and more into the habit of filleting our soles1 or dressing them au gratin or la ,normande2 and in the serving of entres and entremets we have made visible improvement4 ,still there are few ,english cooks in ,england who can turn out an omelette aux fines herbes1 or an omelette souffle as well as an ordinary ,french cook4 ,yet1 what an excellent thing this for breakfast or lunch when one is tired of a boiled egg1 of a slice of cold ham1 beef1 or tongue1 or of a mutton chop1 beefsteak1 or cold game pie4 ,a morning's meal is no unimportant thing to a man who has to appear in half a dozen causes in a crowded court1 who has to visit five-and-twenty patients1 or to get through half a dozen ,blue-books before he goes down to a ,parliamentary ,committee at the ,house of ,lords or ,commons4 ,our mental energies1 in a great degree1 depend on our physical condition and well-being2 and the physical condition of that man1 be he peer1 senator1 advocate1 or doctor1 who1 for half a dozen days1 has had an indifferent breakfast or dinner1 cannot be good4 ,in asking people to dinner1 you should put to yourself the question1 8,why do ,i ask them80 and unless the answer be satisfactory1 they are not likely to contribute much to the agreeability and sociality of the entertainment4 ,they may be ornamental2 it may be necessary1 in a give-and-take sense1 to have them in return for a dinner already long received and digested2 but1 unless they are sensible1 social1 unaffected1 and clever men1 they are not likely to contribute much to the hilarity of the entertainment4 ,you may ask a man because he is a bon vivant1 because he is a raconteur1 because he talks brilliantly and eloquently1 because he is a wit1 because he is a distinguished traveller1 poet1 historian1 or orator1 or because he is a good-natured popular man1 a 8bon enfant10 or1 what used to be called1 a 8jolly good fellow40 ,but do not ask any1 however much above the average1 who is a prig1 who is pretentious1 who is disputatious1 or who is underbred4 ,never introduce to your table men who have not the feelings1 habits1 manners1 and education of gentlemen--,i had almost said1 the birth of a gentleman2 but it must be remembered that nature now and again produces some magnificent specimens of what somebody has called 8,god ,almighty's gentlemen40 ,but these are the exceptions1 not the rule2 for it will generally be found that men of gentle birth are also men of gentle breeding4 ,the only two positively offensive and ill-bred men ,i ever encountered in society were men of some ability who had probably never entered the house of a gentleman to dinner1 till they were four or five-and-twenty4 ,in these instances1 the want of early training and culture in manners and les convenances had never been supplied4 ,the presence of men of this stamp is destructive to good fellowship4 ,they are social pests1 and should be avoided comme la gale4 ,though the ,french learned a great deal of their cookery1 and still more of their confectionery1 from the ,italians1 yet there is little now in ,italian cookery worthy of imitation or adoption among us4 ,macaroni and semolina soups are better made in ,paris than in ,italy1 though the ribbon macaroni is better prepared at ,naples and in ,sicily than anywhere else in the world4 ,veal cutlets1 also1 are very well prepared in the great cities of ,italy1 and more especially at ,naples and ,turin4 ,italian ices and confectionary are worthy of all praise2 but1 as the nation is not a dinner-giving nation1 we have little or nothing to adopt from them4 ,some of their sausages are extremely good and appetizing4 ,the ,spaniards are as little of a dinner-giving people as the ,italians4 ,though every ,spaniard tells you1 with asseverating protestations1 8,mi casa sta la dispocion di usted10 yet this means nothing whatever1 for assuredly you are never destined to eat or drink within his four walls1 unless it be a cup of cold water4 ,the only national dishes of any note in ,spain1 are the olla and the puchero1 and neither would be relished by ,englishmen of well-educated palates4 ,germany has little to teach us in the way of cookery4 ,on the banks of the ,rhine they dress a carp well1 with both sweet and sour sauce2 but1 for my own part1 ,i prefer a ,rhenish carp served in ,paris by a ,french cook4 ,german sauer kraut1 with ,hambro' beef1 may be said to be a national dish1 and right good the ,hambro' salt beef is2 but few ,englishmen like either sauer kraut or potato salad--a dish of ,fatherland4 ,german batter and ,german horseradish sauce1 made with cream1 and also the cherry-sauce1 so common1 is not despicable with certain meats2 but1 on the whole1 ,german cookery is not either elegant or palatable4 ,it may be thought that my condemnation of ,german cookery is too sweeping4 ,it is not without full experience ,i speak of it1 for ,i have lived in every capital town of ,germany4 ,at ,dresden1 many years ago1 ,i rented a house in the ,neu ,markt1 of the cook of ,madame de ,stael1 and he furnished the best-dressed dinners ,i saw in ,germany4 ,at ,vienna1 among the ,ambassadors of the five ,great ,powers1 and among some of the ,hungarian and ,bohemian nobility1 first-rate dinners are given1 dressed by ,french cooks2 but this is not the cookery of the nation at large1 nor even of the well-to-do and easy portion of it4 ,carme was a considerable time at ,vienna1 as cook of the late ,marquis of ,londonderry1 and he liked ,vienna very well2 but he says that the beef1 mutton1 and veal are very indifferent1 badly bled1 and disagreeable to dress4 8,there are wanting at ,vienna10 says ,carme1 8the truffles of ,france1 and the fish of the sea40 ,but1 though these wants are now speedily supplied by rail1 the general cookery is not good4 ,the best and truest account of ,german cookery is given in the 8,bubbles from the ,brunnens of ,nassau40 8,during the fashionable season10 says the author1 the dinner at ,langenschwalbach is at one o'clock4 ,seated at the table of the ,allee ,saal1 ,i counted one hundred and eighty people at dinner in one room4 ,to say in a single word whether the fare was bad or good would be quite impossible1 it being so completely different from anything ever met with in ,england4 ,to my simple taste1 the cookery is most horrid2 still there were now and then some dishes1 particularly sweet ones1 which ,i thought excellent4 ,with respect to the made-dishes1 of which there were a great variety1 ,i beg to record a formula which is infallible2 the simple rule is this--let the stranger taste the dish1 and if it be not sour1 he may be quite certain that it is greasy3 again1 if it be not greasy1 let him not eat thereof1 for then it is sure to be sour4 ,with regard to the order of the dishes1 that too is unlike anything ,mrs4 ,glasse ever thought of3 after soup1 which all over the world is the alpha of the gourmand's alphabet1 the barren meat from which the said soup has been extracted is produced2 of course it is dry1 tasteless1 withered-looking stuff1 which a ,grosvenor ,square cat would not touch with its whiskers2 but this dish is always attended by a couple of satellites--the one1 a quantity of cucumber stewed in vinegar2 the other1 a black greasy sauce2 and if you dare accept a piece of this flaccid beef1 you are instantly thrown between ,scylla and ,charybdis1 for so sure as you decline the indigestible cucumber1 souse comes into your plate a deluge of the sickening grease4 ,after the company have eaten heavily of messes1 which it would be impossible to describe1 in comes some nice salmon--then fowls--then puddings--then meat again--then stewed fruit2 and after the ,english stranger has fallen back in his chair quite beaten1 a leg of mutton majestically makes its appearance6 ,the pig who lives in his sty would have some excuse1 but it is really quite shocking to see any other animal overpowering himself at mid-day with such a mixture and superabundance of food4 8,yet only think10 says our author1 8what a compliment all this is to the mineral waters of ,langenschwalbach1 if the ,naiads of the ,pauline can be of real service to a stomach full of vinegar and grease1 how much more effectually ought they to tinker up the inside of him who has sense enough to sue them in form pauperis40 ,the quantity of fat and lard used in ,german cookery1 more especially in cooking vegetables1 renders it unpalatable to ,english tastes4 ,we may borrow from the ,dutch kitchen something in fish soups4 ,the ,dutch eel soup is rich1 full of flavour1 and very nourishing2 and the soup of herring roes1 called ,erasmus's soup1 prepared with twelve soft roes of herrings generally1 and a quart of young peas1 is by no means despicable4 ,i have also1 after tossing on the ,german ,ocean1 enjoyed in ,holland a ,flushing soup made of flakes of cod and salmon4 ,our own modes of dressing cod1 whether fresh or salted1 is good1 but something may be adopted from the ,dutch in sauces for fish1 and in the various ways of dressing herrings4 ,i have1 in another part of this work1 expressed an opinion as to the ,russian mode of laying out a table4 ,i will here merely say that almost everything good in the ,russian cookery has been adopted from the ,english1 ,french1 and ,dutch kitchens4 ,there is a fish soup in ,russia1 the chief ingredient in which is the sterlet1 but as the fish is not obtainable here1 it is useless to speak of it4 ,few of our peasantry would eat the ,russian national soup--the tschy2 and the barch1 the ,polish soup1 which is fermented1 is little likely to please an ,english or a ,french palate4 ,while ,carme admits that the ,russians have a few national dishes1 he properly says these do not constitute a system of cookery4 ,their butcher's meat1 he adds1 is very indifferent1 their pullets are poor and small4 ,the mutton consumed in ,st4 ,petersburgh comes from the interior1 and is often1 like the salmon1 frozen4 ,from the ,turkish and ,indian cookery we may adopt much more than from the ,russian4 ,the pilau and kalobs of ,turkey are very relishing1 and so are the fish and vegetable curries of ,india--the pish poshes1 pepper pots1 and cutcharees and country captains4 ,the ,indian mulligatawney soup is excellent in the damp and cold weather1 from the beginning of ,november to the end of ,february4 ,for ordinary dinners1 ,english gentlemen should prefer simplicity and excellence to variety4 ,simplicity and convenience have triumphed in dress1 and will sooner or later in dinners4 ,the circular form seems the most desirable in a dinner-table2 and with respect to setting it out1 ,i would say with the late ,mr4 ,walker1 nothing should be placed on it but what is wanted4 ,the great object of meeting round table is to have free and unrestrained communication and hilarity1 and these are impeded by plateaus1 dormants1 and centre-pieces4 ,i have not said a word of bachelors' dinners1 though of all dinners in the world they are the pleasantest1 from the laisser aller and laissez faire style which prevails at them4 ,at bachelors' parties the age1 disposition1 and amusing qualities of the guests are more considered than at regular set dinners4 ,bachelors look for the idem velle and the idem nolle when they play the ,amphytrion1 and in consequence they succeed4 ,another reason of the success of bachelors' entertainments arises from the fact that the dishes are few and simple2 and as the dinner is generally given in a small house or chambers1 the kitchen is not too far removed from the eating parlour4 ,everything comes up 8screeching hot10 as they say in ,ireland1 and not lukewarm or soddened1 as too often happens at great dinners4 ,centrepieces1 epergnes1 and dormants do not generally figure at bachelors' dinners1 and there is an absence of form and ceremony which gives zest4 ,ladies in general love ceremony and ornaments1 and the accessories of epergnes1 flowers1 and perfumes4 ,i have not said anything of ,american dinners4 ,the best of these in private houses are copied from the ,english and ,french model1 although there is much that is distinctive in the manner of serving and consuming dinners at the great hotels in ,new ,york4 ,american turtle soup is excellent2 and so is their sturgeon soup4 ,though ,i do not agree in ,mr4 ,money's estimate of the ,russian dinners1 ,i quite concur in his valuable suggestion1 that dinner chairs at our tables should be made lighter and more flexible in the back and sitting part4 ,illustration ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,,on ,,laying ,,out ,a ,,table4 ,the manner of laying out a table is nearly the same in all parts of the ,united ,kingdom3 yet there are trifling local peculiarities to which the mistress of a house must attend4 ,a centre ornament1 whether it be a dormant1 a plateau1 an epergne1 or a candelabrum1 is found so convenient1 and contributes so much1 in the opinion of some1 to the good appearance of the table1 that a dinner is seldom or never set out without something of this kind4 ,of late years people who give dinners give them what is called la ,russe2 but if you ask nine out of every ten what they mean by dining la ,russe1 they are unable to tell you4 ,all they can say is1 that there is nothing on the table but flowers and fruits1 that the dishes are carved on the sideboard and handed about to the guests4 ,this fashion still continues1 but ,i never could see any good reason for its introduction4 ,it seems to me exceedingly odd that a a people1 like the ,english1 who1 for certainly five centuries1 have enjoyed a high degree of civilization1 should copy the ,russians in the system of dinner-giving--a people who1 a century ago1 were plunged in the deepest barbarism1 and who1 as yet1 are scarcely half civilized4 ,even now the ,russians have not in their language any word which conveys the idea of gentleman1 and the title of ,prince1 so common amongst them1 is not much more than a hundred years old4 ,coats of arms were first borne in ,russia only about eighty years ago1 and they were then introduced by the ,german adventurers1 with which class ,russia still abounds4 ,in the days of ,peter the ,great1 about a century and a half ago1 the ,russian ,boyars 7the only title of nobility1 properly speaking1 ,russian71 were so very ignorant that many of them could not write1 and so very drunken as to astonish so potent a tippler as ,peter himself4 ,when this great reformer knouted his nobles into the luxury of shaving themselves1 and the decent habit of wearing nether garments1 early in the eighteenth century1 they lived chiefly on cabbage soup1 and bacon1 and sausages1 and even these were cooked in ,homeric fashion4 ,it is true1 great progress has been made in ,russia since #afig1 and even since #ahae1 but no sensible ,englishman would think of going to ,russia to learn to serve a dinner4 ,i spent much time in ,russia1 somewhat more than thirty years ago1 and lived a great deal among ,russians of wealth and position2 but though there was profusion and a great expenditure on their dinners1 there was nothing like elegance or good taste4 ,the earlier ,russian cookery of a century ago was adopted from the ,dutch and the ,germans1 and all that is valuable in the later ,russian cookery has been adopted from the ,french and the ,english kitchens4 ,it results from serving dinners la ,russe in ,england that the joints are frequently mangled1 and you receive your portion lukewarm or cold4 ,by carving and serving only one dish at a time also the dinner is unnecessarily prolonged to four hours instead of two and a half or three1 and many more servants and attendants are necessary4 ,in ,russia this is not an important consideration1 for domestic service is performed by serfs1 who receive merely nominal wages4 ,another reason against serving dinners la ,russe is1 that those costly services of gold and silver plate which nearly every good family in ,england possesses1 are not displayed under the new fashion1 which1 like crinoline1 will have its long reign1 and ultimately pass away4 ,utility should be the true principle of beauty1 at least in affairs of the table1 and1 above all1 in the substantial first course4 ,a very false taste1 is1 however1 often shown in centre ornaments4 ,strange ill-assorted nosegays1 and bouquets of artificial flowers1 begin to droop or look faded among hot steams4 ,ornamental articles of family plate1 carved1 chased1 or merely plain1 can never be out of place1 however old-fashioned4 ,in desserts1 richly-cut glass is ornamental4 ,i am far1 also1 from proscribing the foliage and moss in which fruits are sometimes seen bedded4 ,the sparkling imitation of frost-work1 which is given to preserved fruits and other things1 is also exceedingly beautiful2 as are many of the trifles belonging to ,french and ,italian confectionary4 ,beautifully white damask1 and a green cloth underneath1 are indispensable4 ,in all ranks1 and in every family1 one important art in housekeeping is to make what remains from one day's entertainment contribute to the elegance or plenty of the next day's dinner4 ,this is a principle understood by persons in the very highest ranks of society in ,france1 who maintain the most splendid and expensive establishments4 ,vegetables1 ragouts1 and soups may be rewarmed2 and jellies and blancmanges remoulded1 with no deterioration of their qualities4 ,savoury or sweet patties1 croquets1 rissoles1 vol-au-vents1 fritters1 tartlets1 c41 may be served almost without cost1 where cookery is going forward on a large scale4 ,in the ,french kitchen1 a numerous class of culinary preparations1 called entres de dessert1 or made-dishes of left things1 are served even at grand entertainments4 ,at dinners of any pretension the first course consists of soups and fish1 removed by boiled poultry1 ham1 or tongue1 roasts1 stews1 c42 and of vegetables1 with a few made-dishes1 as ragouts1 curries1 hashes1 cutlets1 patties1 fricandeaux1 c41 in as great variety as the number of dishes permits4 ,for the second course1 roasted poultry or game at the top and bottom1 with dressed vegetables1 omelets1 macaroni1 jellies1 creams1 salads1 preserved fruit1 and all sorts of sweet things and pastry are employed1 endeavouring to give an article of each sort1 as a jelly and a cream4 ,this is a more common arrangement than three courses1 which are attended with so much additional trouble both to the guests and servants4 ,whether the dinner be of two or three courses it is managed nearly in the same way4 ,two dishes of fish dressed in different ways1 if suitable1 should occupy the top and bottom2 and two soups1 a white and a brown1 or a mild and a high-seasoned1 are best disposed on each side of the centre-piece3 the fish-sauces are placed between the centre-piece and the dish of fish to which each is appropriate2 and this1 with the decanted wines drunk during dinner1 forms the first course4 ,when there are rare ,french or ,rhenish wines1 they are placed in the original bottles1 in ornamented wine-vases1 between the centre-piece and the top and bottom dishes2 or if four kinds1 they are ranged round the plateau4 ,if one bottle1 it is placed in a vase in the centre4 ,the second course at a purely ,english dinner1 when there are three courses1 consists of roasts and stews for the top and bottom2 turkey or fowls1 or fricandeaux1 or ham garnished1 or tongue for the sides2 with small made-dishes for the corners1 served in covered dishes1 as palates1 curry of any kind1 ragout or fricasse of rabbits1 stewed mushrooms1 c41 c4 ,the third course consists of game1 confectionary1 the more delicate vegetables dressed in the ,french way1 puddings1 creams1 jellies1 etc4 ,caraffes1 with the tumblers belonging to and placed over them1 are laid at proper intervals4 ,where hock1 champagne1 c41 c41 are served1 they are handed round between the courses4 ,a very bad habit has for some years prevailed of not placing any wine on the table1 thus leaving you at the mercy of servants who rarely come round1 and then scarcely half-fill your glass4 ,this is meant to be an imitation of the ,french system1 but nothing can be more unlike the system adopted in ,france4 ,the ,english imitators1 or would-be imitators1 wholly forget that a guest at a ,french table can never languish for lack of wine1 for 8vin ordinaire0 always remains on the table1 while only the very highest qualities of wine are handed round by the servants4 ,in ,england1 for many years past1 the table is altogether stripped of wine1 and the guests are at the mercy of butlers of paid waiters1 who use the wine either for their private drinking after the dinner1 in the servants' hall1 or of hosts who1 to save their wine1 would stint their guests4 ,when the third course is cleared away1 cheese1 butter1 a fresh salad1 or sliced cucumber1 are usually handed round2 and the finger-glasses precede the dessert4 ,at many tables1 particularly in ,indian houses1 it is customary merely to hand quickly round a glass vessel or two filled with simple1 or simply perfumed tepid water1 made by the addition of a little rose or lavender water1 or a home-made strained infusion of rose-leaves or lavender spikes4 ,into this water each guest may dip the corner of his napkin1 and with it refresh his lips and the tips of his fingers4 ,the ,dessert1 at an ,english table1 may consist merely of two dishes of fine fruit1 for the top and bottom2 common or dried fruits1 filberts1 etc41 for the corners or sides1 and a cake for the middle1 with ice-pails in hot weather4 ,liqueurs are handed round at this stage2 and the wines usually drank after dinner are placed1 decanted1 on the table along with the dessert4 ,the ice-pails and plates are removed as soon as the company finish their ice4 ,this may be better understood by following the exact arrangement of what is considered a fashionable dinner of three courses and a dessert4 ,memorandum respecting ,dinners4--,to make your ,bill of ,fare according to the season and the number of your company4 ,when you have two roasts1 they should bear no resemblance to each other--i4e41 one should be white and the other brown4 ,it is not in general the custom to place the fish sauces on the table1 except in establishments where there is a servant to every guest1 but so placed they are always most accessible4 ,it is a great convenience to have the sauce near you when you want it4 ,illustration ,,chapter ,v4 ,,how ,,to ,,choose ,,fish1 ,,flesh1 ,,fowl1 ,,and ,,game4 ,fish of all sorts is best when short1 thick1 well-made1 bright in the scales1 stiff and springy to the touch1 the gills of a fresh red1 and the belly not flabby4 ,when the gills are not bright and fresh red-coloured1 the fish is not eatable4 ,salmon1 carp1 tench1 barbel1 pike1 trout1 whiting1 c41 when the eyes are sunk1 the fins hanging1 and the gills grown pale1 are not good4 ,there is a great difference between salmon in and out of season4 ,if eaten out of season or when stale1 this fish is very unwholesome1 and the same observation applies to mackerel4 ,it should be remarked that1 except in frosty weather1 fish rarely keeps more than two or three days4 ,care should be taken to remove the intestines from fish which is meant to be kept1 immediately after they are caught4 ,this rule should be especially observed in reference to whiting1 haddock1 perch1 c4 ,the livers of these fishes contain an oil1 which1 in very warm weather1 imparts a rancid and most unpleasant taste to the fish4 ,soles should never be salted4 ,mackerel1 herrings1 and pilchards cannot be dressed too soon4 ,when eaten fresh caught1 they are free from that oily taste which they sometimes acquire before they are even half a day out of the water4 ,it may also be generally remarked that neither a carp nor a red-mullet should ever be boiled4 ,,turbot4--,choose a turbot by its plumpness1 thickness1 and colour4 ,it should be very white1 fleshy1 and firm4 ,observe whether its surface be covered with a round1 swelling grain1 an indication of its fine healthy condition4 ,the moderate or even smaller size is to be preferred to the very large1 which is almost always dry1 tasteless1 and woolly4 ,to be good1 it should be plump1 and the belly of a fine1 opaque1 light cream-colour4 ,if of a bluish cast1 like water tinged with milk1 or thin1 they are not good4 ,a turbot ought to be bled near the tail as soon as taken1 or it will assume a red tinge1 impairing its appearance not only in the market1 but at table4 ,if necessary1 turbot will keep for two or three days1 and be in as high perfection as at first1 if lightly rubbed over with salt1 and carefully hung in a cold place4 ,,skate4--,the best skate are white and thick2 they should be kept a day or two before you dress them1 otherwise they will eat tough4 ,the she skate is the sweeter1 especially if large4 ,skate is best during the autumn and winter4 ,this fish may be eaten either boiled1 fried1 or stewed4 ,there is a great difference in this fish4 ,the flavour and fineness of the skate depend1 in a considerable degree1 on the locality in which it is taken4 ,it should be broad and thick1 prickly on the back1 and of a beautiful creamy white4 ,on the north-east coast of ,scotland1 there is a small skate of a leaden blue colour caught1 which is said to be of the most delicate flavour4 ,care should be taken not to eat skate when out of season4 ,,oysters4--,there are in ,england various species of oysters4 ,the goodness of oysters depends1 in a great measure1 on the grounds or sea-beds from which they are taken2 but the ,colchester1 ,pyfleet1 and ,chilford1 are generally esteemed superior to all others1 being white and flat1 yet the others may be made to possess these qualities1 in some degree1 by being properly fed4 ,the large shelled oysters are never good1 for even when fattened they have a strong flavour4 ,the best oysters in ,ireland are the ,burren and ,poldooday1 the ,carlingford being now extinct4 ,in ,france the best are found at ,cancale1 ,etretat1 and ,marennes4 ,in ,belgium the best are fished at ,ostend4 ,when alive and healthy1 the shell closes on the knife4 ,they should be eaten immediately they are opened1 or the flavour will be lost4 ,oysters taken on muddy bottoms1 generally have a disagreeable taste1 and thin or shrivelled oysters which scarcely fill up their shell are1 for the most part1 rank and ill-favoured4 ,oysters taken in rivers where the waters are affected by copper mines are poisonous4 ,this fish is never fit to be eaten if the shells open naturally4 ,there is a fine-flavoured1 delicate small oyster much in vogue at ,genoa1 and a green finned oyster at ,venice1 both of which are good4 ,the ,irish and foreign oysters possess a fresh1 natural1 sea-water flavour1 generally wanting in the ,english oyster1 which is frequently spoiled by too much feeding and washing4 ,we advise all amateurs of oysters to obtain their supply direct from the boats at ,billingsgate before they get into the hands of the retail dealer4 ,,eels4--are taken both in fresh water and the sea4 ,the fresh-water eels are the best1 and the silver eel among these should always be preferred4 ,buy them1 if possible1 alive1 and in order to kill them1 divide the spine just behind the head without severing it from the body4 ,they will die almost instantaneously4 ,the freshness of the eel1 like the lobster1 is known by the vivacity of its motion1 and its quality by the colour of the skin4 ,,ling4--,it is to be regretted that the ling1 one of the finest fishes of the cod tribe1 is not oftener brought to ,billingsgate ,market4 ,it may be eaten fresh or salted1 and will well bear transport fresh in the winter season from ,cornwall to ,london4 ,like the cod1 the ling has a fine sound1 which may be dressed with the fish or salted4 ,ling varies in colour according to the bank it inhabits4 ,when in good order1 the ling is thick about the poll4 ,the whiteness of the liver indicates the good condition of the fish4 ,when out of season the liver is red4 ,,smelts4--if good1 have a fine silvery hue1 are very firm1 and have a refreshing smell like cucumbers newly cut4 ,they are caught in the ,thames1 and some other large rivers1 and should be eaten within twenty-four hours after being taken4 ,,salmon4--,if new1 the flesh is of a fine red 7the gills particularly71 the scales bright1 and the whole fish stiff4 ,when just killed1 there is a whiteness between the flakes1 which gives great firmness2 by keeping1 this melts down1 and the fish is more rich4 ,the ,thames and ,chudchurch salmon bear the highest price2 that caught in the ,severn is next in goodness1 and is even preferred by some4 ,the best have small heads and are thick in the neck4 ,look also for a roundness and breadth over the back1 and thickness down to the tail-fin4 ,the upper part of the back red and dark-coloured4 ,,flounders4--,they should be thick1 firm1 and have their eyes bright4 ,they very soon become flabby and bad4 ,they are both a sea and a river fish4 ,the ,thames produces the best4 ,they are in season from ,january to ,march1 and from ,july to ,september4 ,flounders differ much in quality4 ,there is a flounder with scarlet spots1 a very good fish to look at1 but which is coarse and woolly in the grain4 ,the best flounders are of a sober greyish colour4 ,,whitings4--,always buy whitings fresh4 ,having gutted them1 you can keep them two or three days in a cool place in the winter months4 ,never purchase uncleaned whiting unless it be perfectly fresh out of the water4 ,the firmness of the body and fins is to be looked to1 as in herrings2 their high season is during the first three months of the year1 but they may be had a great part of it4 ,whiting is one of the most wholesome of fish1 and is so light that physicians recommend it to invalids when more solid nutriment is forbidden4 ,the largest whiting are taken off the coasts of ,devon and ,cornwall4 ,they are in highest season from ,michaelmas to ,february1 shortly after which they begin to cast their spawn4 ,they are again fit for the table by the latter end of ,may or the beginning of ,june4 ,it is not easy to distinguish the whiting from the codlin1 but it is very necessary to be able to do so1 as fishmongers have an ugly trick of substituting the one for the other4 ,the codlin1 however1 has a beard1 while the whiting is smooth4 ,,cod4--,cod1 skate1 maids1 and thornback should be in a state fit to crimp1 and are so when the fish rises again on being pressed with the finger4 ,there are sixteen different species of cod taken on our coasts2 but the most esteemed is the ,dogger ,bank cod4 ,this fish is best when thick towards the head1 with a deep pit just behind it1 and the flesh cuts white and clear4 ,the fish should be perfectly stiff4 ,this affords a proof of its freshness1 and of its eating firm4 ,the gills should be very red1 and the eyes fresh and bright2 when flabby they are not good4 ,cod is invariably good1 when the weather is cold1 dry1 and frosty2 and it is in primest season during the periods ,london fashionables dine by candle-light--namely1 from ,november to ,march4 ,the larger cod1 if in good order1 are generally the firmer and better flavoured fish4 ,the smaller cod-fish are1 for the most part1 flabby and watery1 though these defects may be in a measure removed1 by sprinkling salt over the fish1 a few days before it is cooked4 ,,sturgeon4--when good1 has a fine blue in its veins and gristle2 a brown or yellowish cast in these parts denote a bad fish2 if kept too long this fish has a disagreeable taint4 ,the flesh must be perfectly white1 and must cut without crumbling4 ,it is from the roe of the sturgeon that the caviare is composed1 though it is sometimes made of the spawn of the grey carp1 or the hard roe of the grey mullet4 ,,haddock4--bears some resemblance to cod1 but may be easily distinguished by the black spot on each shoulder4 ,it is a superior fish2 the flesh is firm1 and of a snow-white colour1 with a creamy curd between the flakes4 ,the largest haddocks are in general the best1 and the larger size keep better than the smaller ones4 ,the finest haddocks are taken in ,dublin ,bay1 and off the coasts of ,devon and ,cornwall4 ,haddocks of all kinds may be almost daily obtained of ,grove1 ,charing ,cross4 ,a haddock should be chosen like a cod1 by the thickness and depth of the body1 and fulness at the poll4 ,the freshness of a haddock may be ascertained by the redness of the gills and brightness of the eyes4 ,,sole4--,a sole should be chosen in the same manner as a turbot4 ,the smallest soles are of the sweetest and best flavour for frying4 ,if you wish to boil your fish1 choose a large ,dover or ,torbay sole4 ,they are in season nearly the whole year1 but are best at ,midsummer4 ,soles are usually skinned on the dark side only2 the scales on the white side should be carefully removed1 which is often done in a very slovenly manner1 and sometimes omitted altogether4 ,the soles of the west of ,england and of ,ireland1 are quite different from the sole sent to the ,london market1 being a much richer and thicker fish1 with a black skin4 ,for invalids or persons of a delicate stomach1 the smaller and whiter sole is preferable4 ,if the sole come to market1 gutted and packed1 by land-carriage1 you must judge of the freshness by the smell4 ,the best proof of their freshness1 however1 is the transparency of the slime on the dark side1 through which the fine scales may be easily seen1 and by a frothy appearance in the slime on the lower side2 but this fish1 if gutted1 may be kept good long after these marks have disappeared4 ,salmon1 haddock1 whiting1 and all other fish1 whether of the sea1 pond1 or river1 may be judged1 as to freshness1 by the red1 lively colour of the gills1 the brightness of the eye1 the clearness and regular undisturbed position of the scales1 and a plumpness of body1 amounting to stiffness4 ,a dead eye1 livid gills1 and flabby condition of the flesh1 are sure signs that the fish is stale4 ,,lampreys4--,the sea and the river lamprey1 or lampern1 are easily distinguishable1 not only by their size1 but by their colour4 ,the sea lamprey is of a rusty1 mottled colour1 whilst the river lamprey is of the colour of the common eel1 or a shade darker4 ,the sea lamprey is also considerably larger than the river1 sometimes weighing as much as five or six pounds1 whilst the river lamprey seldom exceeds twelve inches in length1 and seldom exceeds from half a pound to a pound1 or a pound and a quarter in weight4 ,river lampreys are excellent1 either stewed1 potted1 or in pies4 ,some there are who fry them2 but they are generally sent up from ,worcester in a prepared sauce1 in order to be stewed1 which is the preferable mode of eating them4 ,they are1 it must be confessed1 a more agreeable than wholesome food4 ,henry ,i4 died from a surfeit of them4 ,the lamprey is in the most perfect season during the months of ,april and ,may4 ,,red ,,mullet4--,this fish is called the woodcock of the sea4 ,it is so choice in its food1 that1 like that bird1 it is cooked without drawing4 ,it is in prime season during the heats of summer1 and is therefore difficult to obtain fresh4 ,when the red mullet is first taken out of the water1 it is of an exquisite rose-colour1 varying in lighter tints4 ,when dead1 and some time out of water1 it assumes a brownish tinge2 as it becomes more stale1 the colour grows paler4 ,redness of the gills is in this1 as in most other fish1 a criterion of freshness4 ,red mullets require to be carefully packed2 if pressed on by other fish they are apt to burst4 ,they should be eaten1 if possible1 on the day on which they are taken out of the water2 for though they may be perfectly sweet and wholesome on the following day1 yet their livers1 by keeping1 will have become soft1 and will no longer have that delicate flavour which they would have possessed if dressed on the day they were taken4 ,,pilchards4--,the pilchard is an exquisite fish of the herring tribe4 ,it is somewhat rounder than the herring4 ,the portion of the back-fin1 too1 is placed more forward in the pilchard4 ,the criterion of freshness is the same as in the herring4 ,pilchards are in season whenever they are to be met with4 ,they are best when boiled with their scales on without gutting4 ,,whitebait--are in season in ,july1 ,august1 and ,september4 ,,plaice and ,,flounders--to be good1 should be stiff1 and have a full eye4 ,the plaice is best when the belly has a bluish cast4 ,,herrings and ,,mackerel--are unfit for the table when faded1 wrinkled1 or pliable in the tail4 ,the freshness of mackerel may be ascertained by the stiffness of the body and the prismatic brilliancy of its colours4 ,when they are out of condition1 they have got what is called the 8rogue's mark10 are long and thin made1 with a sharp belly wanting in fulness4 ,when fresh1 the sides and belly are bright and silvery1 the body is stiff1 and the skin devoid of wrinkle4 ,they are in season from ,june till ,november4 ,their gills should be of a fine red1 and their eyes bright1 and the whole fish should be stiff and firm4 ,herrings should not be too frequently partaken of when they first come into season4 ,they have then a peculiar richness1 which even affects the stomach of the strongest fisherman4 ,the freshness of herrings and sprats is ascertained by the brightness of the scales4 ,,lobster4--should be chosen by its weight1 alertness1 and fresh smell2 by the tail1 which when newly caught1 will be stiff and springy1 and the firmness of its sides4 ,the heaviest are the best1 if there be no water in them4 ,if you desire a cock lobster1 select that which has a narrow back part of the tail1 with the two uppermost fins within4 ,the tail should be hard and stiff like a bone4 ,the back of the hen is soft1 and is invariably broader3 her fins are also soft4 ,before selecting1 carefully smell a lobster4 ,if stale1 it may be easily known by a heavy1 muggy smell4 ,crabs1 prawns1 and shrimps1 may be chosen in the same manner4 ,always choose the largest and heaviest crab you can find4 ,these shell-fish1 if kept more than one day1 will become bad4 ,the colour of stale shell-fish fades1 becoming blackish and dark if naturally red4 ,they also1 when stale1 become pliable in their claws and joints4 ,,john-,,dory4--,this is one of the very best fishes in the sea4 ,they are found in greatest abundance on the southern coasts of ,devon and ,cornwall4 ,they sometimes weigh as much as twelve pounds1 but the greater proportion are not half that size4 ,the larger dories are in best season from ,september to ,christmas1 but are good eating at all times4 ,they keep well1 but should be gutted1 otherwise the flesh acquires an unpleasant taste4 ,the choicest morsels are to be found over the collar-bones1 and about the head of this fish4 ,larger dories are best boiled2 the smaller ones may be fried4 ,the flesh is of a fine clear white when dressed1 with the exception of that part covering the fins1 which is of a brownish colour4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,venison4--should be thick and firm in the fat1 and the lean pure4 ,the age of the deer1 as well as of hares and rabbits1 is known by the clefts and claws being close and smooth in the young animal4 ,try the haunches or shoulders1 under the bones that come out1 with the finger or knife1 and as the scent is sweet or rank1 it is new or stale2 and the like may be said of the sides in the fleshy parts2 if tainted1 they will look green in some places1 or more than ordinarily black4 ,few people like venison when it has much of the haut gout4 ,the buck venison begins in ,may1 and is in high season till ,allhallows-day3 the doe1 from ,michaelmas to the end of ,december1 or sometimes to the end of ,january4 ,the best joints of the best meat cost most money at first1 but are most economical4 ,all stale meat may be known by the eyes being sunk1 the kidney tainted1 and the flesh white4 ,all provisions should be bought with ready money1 or the bills settled weekly2 this will effect a saving of twenty per cent4 to the housekeeper4 ,,beef4--,the finest ox beef may be known from having a smooth1 open grain1 an agreeable carnation colour1 delicately marbled with streaks of fat1 the flesh should look red1 and the suet white2 and if young1 it will be tender1 and of an oily smoothness4 ,the colour of the fat should be rather white than yellow4 ,yellow fat indicates that the beast has been fed on oil-cake4 ,cow beef is not so open in its grain1 nor is the red of so pleasant a colour1 but the fat is much whiter4 ,it may be also distinguished by the udder1 when dressed on the whole or in quarters4 ,you may know whether or not it is young1 by making an impression on the lean with your finger1 which mark1 if young1 will soon disappear4 ,the sweetest and best-flavoured beef is that of the small ,scotch bullock1 when fed on ,english pasture1 or the shorthorned ,devon4 ,northampton and ,leicestershire beef is large1 and the flavour is not fine4 ,bull beef should never be purchased1 being clammy1 rank1 and more closely grained than other beef4 ,the colour is a dusky red1 and the flesh tough in pinching4 ,the fat is rank1 skinny1 and hard4 ,,mutton4--is not good under three years old2 younger1 it is turgid and pale4 ,the best is above five2 but it is seldom to be got in the market of that age4 ,the black-faced1 or short sheep are best for the table1 though more depends on the pasture than on the breed4 ,mutton fed on mountains and downs1 where the herbage is short and fine1 is better than that fed on rich pasture4 ,always1 therefore1 choose the ,dartmoor1 the small ,welsh1 the ,south ,down1 or ,scotch ,highland mutton4 ,some of the largest and fattest sheep are produced in ,leicestershire1 and the marshes of ,kent1 but the smaller mutton is to be preferred4 ,the flesh of the wether should always be preferred to that of the ewe4 ,hill wether mutton1 from four to seven years old1 is far the best whether for boiling or roasting4 ,choose it short in the shank1 thick in the thigh1 and of a pure1 healthy1 brownish red1 with the flesh marbled4 ,pinch the flesh with your fingers2 if it regains its former state in a short time1 the mutton is young1 but otherwise it is old1 and the fat will be clammy and fibrous4 ,if it be ram mutton1 the flavour of which is disagreeable and strong1 the grain will be close1 the lean tough and of a deep red colour2 it will not rise when pinched1 and the fat will be spongy4 ,the test of excellence in this meat is that it does not fly from the knife when cut1 but rather closes upon it4 ,carefully observe the vein in the neck of mutton or lamb2 if it look ruddy or bluish1 the meat is fresh1 but if yellowish1 is decaying1 and if green1 completely tainted4 ,the hind-quarter may be judged of from the kidney and knuckle4 ,if you find a faint smell under the kidney1 or the knuckle is unusually limp1 the meat is stale4 ,that mutton and lamb will always prove the best1 the legs and shoulders of which are short-shanked4 ,,lamb4--,in the choice of lamb1 observe the eye1 which should be bright and full2 if it be sunk and wrinkled1 the meat is stale4 ,grass lamb comes into season in ,april or ,may1 and continues till ,august4 ,house lamb may be had in great towns almost all the year1 but is in highest perfection in ,december and ,january4 ,,veal4--,the whitest veal in ,england is not the most juicy1 having been made so by frequent bleeding4 ,the ,french veal of ,pontoise is finer than the ,english4 ,the whiteness is produced by feeding the animal on milk and biscuits4 ,the calf is there brought to market in a covered van4 ,veal should be fat1 and white1 and young2 the mode of feeding is of great importance4 ,examine the kidney1 the state of which will show the feeding and condition of all animals4 ,veal1 when stale1 generally becomes flabby and clammy4 ,the flesh of the cow-calf is not of so bright a red1 nor so firmly grained as that of the bull-calf1 neither is the fat so much curdled4 ,the shoulder may be known by the vein in it1 which if it be not of a bright red1 is surely stale1 and if any green spots appear about it1 totally unfit for use4 ,should the neck or breast appear yellowish at the upper end1 or the sweetbread clammy1 it is not good4 ,in the choice of this meat1 one of the best indications is that the kidney be covered with a white dense fat4 ,the loin may be known by smelling under the kidney1 which always taints first1 and becomes putrescent1 and the fat in that case loses its firm consistence4 ,the leg may be known by the joint1 which if it be limp1 and the flesh clammy1 with green or yellow spots1 is unfit for use4 ,the head1 if new and sweet1 must have the eyes plump and lively1 but if they are sunk or wrinkled1 it is not good4 ,this rule applies also to the head of the sheep or lamb4 ,the greatest quantity of veal consumed in ,london is brought from ,essex1 which may be called the ,pontoise of ,england4 ,,pork4--,a thin rind is a good indication in all pork2 a thick1 tough one1 not easily impressed with the finger1 is a sign of age4 ,when you purchase a leg1 a hand1 or a spring1 take especial care that the flesh is cool and smooth1 for if otherwise it is certainly stale2 but particularly put your finger under the bone that comes out1 and if the flesh be tainted1 you will immediately discover it by smelling your finger4 ,the lean of young pork will break on being pinched4 ,measly pork is easily distinguishable from sound by the fat being full of kernels4 ,london is supplied with the best pork by the dairy farms in ,essex4 ,when you purchase a sucking-pig1 remember that the barrow1 or sow1 is better than the boar1 the flesh of which is neither so sweet nor so tender4 ,smell carefully at the belly1 and examine about the tail1 and if it has no disagreeable odour1 nor any yellow and green spots in those parts1 the pig is as good as you could desire2 but you will in general find that the short1 thick necks are the best4 ,as to bacon and ham1 observe whether the smell be fresh1 and see that the fat and lean be clear1 and not streaked with yellow4 ,in marketing for bacon1 observe also whether the fat feels oily1 appears white1 and does not crumble1 and that the flesh bears a good colour1 and adheres closely to the bone1 in which case only the bacon is good4 ,the best bacon comes from ,hampshire1 but much sold as ,hampshire is ,buckinghamshire and ,irish bacon4 ,the bacon of ,yorkshire1 ,cumberland1 and ,gloucestershire is good4 ,with respect to hams1 you should select one with a short shank1 and try it with a sharp-pointed knife1 which thrust into the flesh as near the pope's eye as possible4 ,if it come out only a little smeared1 and smells well1 you may be assured that the ham is good1 but if it be daubed1 and have a fetid smell1 it is good for nothing4 ,when freshly cured1 and not over salted1 a ham may be trimmed1 and wrapped in a coarse paste1 and will be found more juicy1 and of finer flavour baked than boiled4 ,york1 ,cumberland1 ,westmoreland1 and ,gloucestershire1 are famous for their hams2 but a great proportion of the hams now sold as ,yorkshire1 are ,irish4 ,the ,strasbourg bacon is highly smoked1 and has a delicious flavour1 but is excessively dear4 ,it may be obtained at any of the ,italian oil-shops2 where ,bayonne and ,westphalia hams can also be purchased4 ,the latter are now imported in large quantities1 and may be purchased so low as eightpence per pound2 but they are no longer prepared with the care and perfection bestowed on them when they were sold at fourteenpence per pound4 ,spanish and ,portuguese hams have also been introduced into the ,english markets1 and though the latter are of an ungraceful and awkward shape1 they are good in colour and flavour4 ,bacon should always be twice salted1 and patiently rubbed both times4 ,all meat salted in pieces and packed must be entirely covered with the brine4 ,,fowls4--,as to poultry1 it may generally be remarked1 that barn-door fowls are preferable to those fed in coops4 ,much experience and observation are requisite in forming a judgment of the freshness and goodness of fowls4 ,any appearance of greenness about the rump is a sure sign of putrescence4 ,the ,poland breed of fowls is the largest4 ,dorking1 in ,surrey1 and ,epping1 in ,essex1 are alike famed for good poultry4 ,bethnal ,green and ,mile ,end fatten much poultry for ,leadenhall-market1 but it is inferior to barn-door fowl4 ,good fowls are short1 plump1 broad in the breast1 and thick in the rump4 ,a hen is old if her legs and comb be rough1 but young if they are smooth4 ,you may also judge of the freshness by her vent1 in the same manner as the cock4 ,young poultry may be distinguished by the pellucid appearance1 and peculiar feel of the flesh1 and by the flexibility of the breast-bone4 ,many poulterers1 aware of this1 take care to break the breast-bone of every fowl they expose for sale4 ,it may be here remarked that the poularde of ,france1 from ,mans1 in the department of the ,sarthe1 is superior to any ,english fowl whatever4 ,,geese4--,as to geese1 the feet and bill of a young goose are yellow2 they turn red as the bird grows old4 ,it has but few hairs on the feet2 when old1 however1 the feet become hairy4 ,if fresh1 the feet are supple2 but if stale1 dry and stiff4 ,great quantities of geese come to ,london from ,devonshire1 ,lincolnshire1 ,buckinghamshire1 c4 ,in ,france the greatest number are reared in the ,gironde4 ,the quantity of geese reared in ,france is almost incredible4 ,the minister of the interior1 ,chaptal1 states that #abj1jjj1 destined to be fattened1 were annually sold in the market of ,toulouse alone4 ,the wild ducks from the coast--those feeding on what they can get from the salt water and the lands contiguous--are often tough and fishy1 though some of them may be found tender1 but not quite free from the fishy flavour4 ,these are the birds which1 with widgeons and teal1 are hawked about in the streets of ,london1 and sold sometimes at from eighteenpence to half-a-crown a couple1 according to the powers of eloquence of the vendor1 and the powers of gullibility of the purchaser1 who can generally1 if he has any experience1 obtain them for one half the price at first demanded4 ,,wild ,,duck4--,of the many varieties of wild ducks1 those with red legs are held in the highest estimation4 ,the best wild ducks are those from the fens of ,lincolnshire1 taken by decoys4 ,the same species is found in the ,campagna of ,rome4 ,they are esteemed a great delicacy at the ,roman tables about ,christmas time4 ,they are wholly free from rankness and a fishy taste1 and are of a fine1 rich gamey flavour4 ,wild ducks are to be purchased1 when in season1 at the shops of all the respectable poulterers in ,london1 and at a very reasonable price4 ,,widgeon4--,the widgeon1 which is a smaller bird of the duck species1 is not so good as the wild duck4 ,it is coarse1 often fishy1 rank1 and rough1 and is not fit to appear at a dinner of any pretension1 except in the form of a truffled saut4 ,,teal4--,the teal1 the smallest of the tribe1 is much superior1 and forms a recherch roast even among the most difficult to please of the knights of the dinner-table4 ,teal and widgeon are supple-footed when fresh1 but stiff and dry-footed when stale4 ,if fat1 they are thick and hard on the belly1 and lean if thin and soft4 ,,duck4--,a tame duck--and the remark applies also to a wild duck--when fat and young1 is thick and hard on the belly1 and is old when lean and thin4 ,when fresh1 the foot is pliable1 but dry1 if stale4 ,observe1 that the foot of the best wild duck is red1 and of the great majority of wild ducks reddish1 and that it is less than that of a tame duck4 ,,partridge4--,partridges1 when young1 have yellowish and dark-coloured bills4 ,this bird taints first in the crop1 therefore you should open its bill and smell4 ,next1 examine the bill1 legs1 and vent2 if the bill be white1 and the legs have a bluish cast1 the bird is old2 but if the bill is black1 and the legs yellow1 it is young4 ,if the vent be fast1 it is new2 but stale1 if open and green4 ,in ,france1 the red-legged partridge is the most esteemed2 but all partridges in that country are inferior to the ,english2 they are dry and flavourless1 and want the juice and succulence of the ,english game4 ,,snipe4--,a snipe is chosen in the same manner as the woodcock2 but the snipe1 when fresh is fat in the side1 under the wing1 and feels thick in the vent4 ,,turkey4--,the legs of a cock turkey should be black and smooth1 its spurs short1 the feet limber1 and the eyes lively2 but if the eyes are sunk and the feet dry1 the bird is stale4 ,the hen is chosen in the same manner1 only observe1 that if she is with egg1 the vent will be soft and open1 but if not1 close and hard4 ,the county of ,norfolk has the reputation of breeding the finest turkeys4 ,they are in season from ,november to ,march1 at which period they are succeeded by turkey poults4 ,the number of turkeys and fowls produced in ,france is much greater1 making all allowance for the size and superficial extent of the country1 than in ,england4 ,nearly half a century ago1 according to ,chaptal1 minister of the interior1 the capital embarked in the poultry trade in ,france1 amounted to #ea1fjj1jjj francs4 ,,rabbit4--,a rabbit has long2 rough claws1 and grey hairs intermixed with its wool if it be old2 but when young1 the wool and claws are smooth4 ,if stale it is supple1 and the flesh bluish1 with a kind of slime upon it2 but if fresh it will be stiff1 and the flesh white and dry4 ,,hare4--,a hare and leveret are thus chosen3 if the claws of a hare are blunt and rugged1 the division in the lip spread much1 and the ears appear dry and tough1 and the bones hard1 it is old2 but if the claws are sharp and smooth1 the division in the lip not greatly spread1 and the ears will easily tear1 it is young4 ,if fresh killed1 the flesh of both will be white and stiff2 but if stale1 supple and blackish in many places4 ,to discover a true leveret1 feel near the foot on its fore leg1 and if you find there a knob1 or small bony protuberance1 it is a real leveret1 but if destitute of this1 it must be a hare4 ,,heathcock4--,the heathcock and hen when young have smooth legs and bills1 which become rough when old4 ,you may judge of their freshness in the same manner as you do of the pheasant4 ,,wheatear4--,the delicate bird called a wheatear is fresh1 if it has a limber foot and fat rump3 otherwise it is stale4 ,,pheasant4--,a young cock-pheasant has dubbed spurs1 but if old1 the spurs will be sharp and small4 ,if the vent be fast1 the bird is fresh2 but if it be open and flabby1 stale4 ,if a hen1 and young1 the legs will be smooth1 and her flesh of a fine grain2 but if old1 her legs will be rough1 and1 as it were1 hairy1 when pulled4 ,pheasants and heath-poults are fresh when their feet are limber1 and their vents are white and stiff2 but are stale when they are dry-footed1 have green vents1 and will peel1 if touched hard4 ,,pigeons4--,pigeons when they grow red-legged are old1 and are stale when their vents are flabby and green4 ,if fresh1 they will be limber-footed1 and feel fat in the vent4 ,by this rule you may judge of all kinds of doves1 fieldfares1 thrushes1 blackbirds1 plovers1 larks1 c4 ,,woodcock4--,the woodcock1 if stale1 will be dry-footed2 and if bad1 its nose will be moist2 but if new and fat1 it will be limber-footed1 thick1 and hard4 ,,capon4--,a capon is known by a short and pale comb1 a thick rump and belly1 and a fat vein on the side of the breast2 when young1 the spurs will be short and blunt1 and the legs smooth2 and if fresh1 the vent will be close and hard2 but if stale1 loose2 which last remark may be applied to cocks and hens4 ,,cock4--,a cock when young has short and dubbed spurs1 but it should be observed that the spurs of old cocks may be scraped so as to deceive any but a very accurate observer4 ,if fresh his vent will be hard and close2 but you cannot be too particular in observing the spurs1 as the market people frequently scrape them4 ,,eggs4--,as to eggs1 hold the great end of the egg to your tongue2 if it feels warm1 it is new2 if cold1 bad2 and so in proportion to the heat or cold is the goodness of the egg4 ,another way to know is to put the egg in a pan of cold water1 the fresher the egg1 the sooner it will fall to the bottom2 if rotten1 it will swim at the top4 ,this is a sure way not to be deceived4 ,the best way to keep eggs is in bran or meal1 turning them frequently2 some1 however1 place the small end downwards in fine wood-ashes3 to keep them for a long period they may be buried in salt1 which it is said will preserve them in almost any climate4 ,,butter4--,when you buy butter1 trust not to that which may be good in external appearance1 but try in the middle1 and if your smell and taste be good1 you cannot be deceived4 ,,cheese4--,if old cheese be rough-coated1 rugged1 or dry at top1 beware of little worms called hoppers1 and also of mites1 a still smaller animal4 ,if it be full of holes1 moist1 or spongy1 hoppers may also be expected to be found in it4 ,if any crack or any soft and perished place appear on the outside1 examine into its depth1 for the greater part may be hidden within4 ,cheese is to be chosen by its moist smooth coat4 ,a fat cheese1 if of much size1 has generally rounded edges1 and the sides are swelled out more or less2 although excessive swelling out of the sides is not a good sign2 neither is an elevation of the top desirable4 ,a poor cheese has usually keen edges1 and the sides are straight4 ,fat cheese may also be known by rubbing a small portion of it between the finger and thumb3 if it soon becomes smooth and soft1 melting as it were on the finger by the animal heat1 it is fat2 but if it remains tough and crumbly1 it is not rich nor of prime quality4 ,no cheese should be chosen which has the surface much swelled1 such swelling being an indication of its containing holes and being badly made1 and that it has most probably also an unpleasant smell and taste4 ,besides these indications1 no cheese should be purchased without being both tasted and smelled4 ,illustration ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,,on ,,soups ,,and ,,broths4 ,at every great dinner--indeed ,i may say at every dinner of the least pretension in the most civilised countries--you begin by eating soup4 ,often in ,paris and at ,brussels1 between ,september and ,april1 at dinners at restaurants1 you also commence by half a dozen1 a dozen1 or eighteen oysters by way of appetiser2 but this practice is not resorted to at formal dinners1 or1 as the ,french say1 diners d'apparat1 in private houses2 though if three or four intimate friends are dining together sans faon1 oysters may be1 and often are1 introduced before the soup4 ,in ,russia the custom is to take caviare1 or a slice of raw or pickled herring before soup1 which relish is followed by a glass of ,cognac or some liqueur4 ,but these are customs not likely to be introduced into more civilized countries2 customs1 moreover1 quite repugnant to ,english habits4 ,the basis of nearly every soup is a stock or broth called by the ,french a grand bouillon4 ,the best way of making this stock is by boiling1 or rather stewing down a sufficient quantity of properly prepared and washed beef in a marmite1 or iron or earthen pot1 or stewpan4 ,the water must be judiciously apportioned to the quantity of meat4 ,the ,french1 who make the best bouillon in the world1 generally pour a quart of water1 on half a kilogramme 7equivalent to about a pound7 of meat1 and let it simmer from five-and-a-half to six hours4 ,when the liquid is sufficiently diminished to receive the vegetables1 a few young carrots1 an onion with a couple of cloves stuck in it1 a parsnip1 a little celery and a bunch of thyme and parsley are added4 ,the water should be cold1 and seasoned with a little salt4 ,the pot or earthen vessel should be placed on a clear fire1 and allowed to remain till the liquid is diminished a third4 ,this bouillon is the basis of most soups1 and it is called a consomm when a large fowl or the half of a turkey is added4 ,some cooks use old partridges or pigeons instead of fowls4 ,it is an axiom in cookery1 however1 that at least two sorts of meat are necessary to make a good bouillon4 ,when the bouillon is skimmed it serves as the stock for all kinds of soup4 ,it cannot be too often stated that the basis of all soup1 and indeed of all broth1 except mutton1 should be juicy young beef and pure soft water4 ,it should be remembered that the trimmings and the bones of fresh meat1 the necks of poultry1 the liquor in which a joint has been boiled1 and the shank-bones of mutton1 are excellent additions to the stock-pot1 and should be reserved for it4 ,as soup is the food of childhood and old age1 it should be restorative and nourishing4 ,the great defect of ,english soups is1 not the want of meat1 but the want of a proper boiling or concoction4 ,this radical fault is vilely but vainly attempted to be supplied by the excessive use of seasoning and herbs4 ,the following elementary rules for making nourishing broth1 are from the ,french of ,parmentier3-- ,i4 ,sound1 healthful1 fresh viands4 ,,ii4 ,vessels of earthenware in preference to those of metal1 as a less degree of heat keeps them boiling2 and once heated1 a few hot cinders will maintain that slight degree of ebullition which is wanted4 ,,iii4 ,double the weight of water to that of the meat used4 ,,iv4 ,a sufficient quantity of common salt to facilitate the separation of the blood and slime that coagulates under the form of scum4 ,v4 ,in the early stage of the process1 such a degree of heat as will throw off the whole scum4 ,,vi4 ,a lower1 but an equable temperature1 that the soup may simmer gently till the substances employed1 whether nutritive1 colouring1 or flavouring1 are perfectly combined with the water1 according to their several degrees of solubility4 ,great care should be taken to have all the utensils clean4 ,pots1 saucepans1 and stewpans1 should be well tinned1 especially for soups and gravies1 as they are obliged to remain a long time upon the fire4 ,whatever is boiled in a brass or copper pot1 should be taken out while it is hot2 if left to cool1 it would have a disagreeable taste1 and be very unwholesome4 ,as a convincing proof of this1 if the liquor that any kind of meat is boiled in remains in the pot till the next day1 the fat at the top will be quite green1 and the liquor of course very pernicious4 ,iron pots1 saucepans1 c41 are the most wholesome1 but they spoil the colour of many articles of cookery1 and therefore are not much used2 but they are useful for anything that would not be discoloured4 ,pots lined with earthenware are certainly preferable to any other kind1 but they are very expensive4 ,the broth to be used for soups and gravies should be kept separate2 because the broth of the stock-pot1 being required for white as well as brown sauces1 should not be coloured2 whilst that for soups1 unless they be white soups1 should always be made brown4 ,if1 however1 you have more coloured broth than you require for soup1 you may apply it to making brown gravies4 ,an excellent stock-pot may be produced with all the bones you can collect1 carcasses1 and the under or claw-legs of poultry or game--all bones and parings1 in short1 of flesh and fowl4 ,put them into a large pipkin with water2 or if you have the liquor in which beef1 or mutton1 or veal1 has been boiled1 use it in preference4 ,to this you may add1 if you have it1 a few ladlefuls of the water in which a ham has been boiled1 first skimming off the fat4 ,with the bones1 put a bunch of leeks1 a bunch of green celery1 an onion with three cloves stuck into it1 a couple of carrots1 a turnip1 a bit of parsnip1 some salt1 a bunch of herbs1 and two or three sheep's melts4 ,a small quantity of sugar will also greatly improve the flavour of stock1 and indeed of all rich soups4 ,let the whole stew simmer very slowly during seven or eight hours1 keeping it closely covered all the while4 ,season it with a little salt4 ,when reduced to a good consomme1 and you are satisfied with its flavour1 strain it through a sieve1 and put it by for use4 ,this broth1 if required1 may be used for making white soups4 ,all soups should be closely covered during their boiling1 by which the heat will be very much economised4 ,there may be1 however1 occasionally some deviations from this course1 which must depend upon the discretion of the cook4 ,in making soups and broths1 stale as well as fat meat should be avoided2 the first will impart an ill taste1 and the last will be attended with considerable waste4 ,of the kinds that will keep are brown soup1 hare soup1 soup of game of any kind1 giblet soup1 and generally all soups made of the meat of animals of mature growth4 ,soups into which vegetables and young meats enter in any quantity1 are best when fresh made1 as these things have a strong tendency to ferment4 ,this also applies to veal and fish soups4 ,this tendency may be partly checked by boiling them up1 or changing the vessels4 ,the best meat soups are1 beyond question1 those which are made from the lean alone1 without much1 if any1 fat4 ,in making pea-soup with dry peas1 soft water should be used2 with green peas1 hard water1 which contributes to the preservation of their colour4 ,a soup should never be permitted to grow cold in the vessel in which it has been boiled4 ,if not immediately wanted1 it should be poured out into a clean pan2 one made of stoneware is the best1 as neither salts nor acids will act upon it1 a consideration of essential importance4 ,while cooling1 the soup should not be covered over2 nor indeed is it desirable to cover soup after it is cold1 except with a hair sieve4 ,it facilitates the operation1 if meat for soup or gravy be cut into pieces of about half a pound each1 and improves both the flavour and colour1 if the meat1 onions1 and carrots be stewed at the bottom of the soup-pot or digester1 before the water is added to it1 with a bit of butter to prevent burning4 ,to this previous drawing out of the juices without much or any water1 much of the superiority of ,french soups is to be attributed4 ,some ,french cooks1 to regulate the flavour of soups more exactly1 boil the roots1 herbs1 and vegetables separately to a mash1 and then squeeze them and add the juice till the desired flavour is obtained4 ,as long boiling is necessary to make good soup1 particularly where the whole or the greater part of the virtues of butchers' meat are to be extracted1 it will be necessary to add more water from time to time as it boils away2 and1 in order to save time1 it will be best to add the water boiling1 or1 at least1 very hot to the soup4 ,in the addition of herbs1 other vegetables1 or condiments1 care should be taken that they are in such quantities that no one may predominate1 unless1 as is sometimes the case with celery or onion1 it is desired that there should be a predominancy of a particular flavour4 ,as celery is so generally used to flavour soups1 the cook should know that1 when the root is scarce1 the seeds bruised and added to the soup a few minutes only before it is served up1 will flavour it well2 indeed the seeds will be generally found superior to the root for the purpose of flavouring4 ,boiling the seeds1 however1 for a long time1 will dissipate their essential oil on which their flavour chiefly depends4 ,this observation applies with equal force to all spices1 the long boiling of which1 in open vessels1 must necessarily dissipate their oils in which their good qualities reside3 indeed1 sometimes a few drops of their essential oil1 as of cinnamon or cassia1 will supply the place of the spice itself4 ,the boiling of poultry and game in the stock-pot is a practice very common abroad4 ,when stewed enough to be tender1 they should be served immediately with a good sauce4 ,in regard to broths1 some of the general directions concerning boiling must be carefully attended to1 as well as the preceding observations on the preparation of soups4 ,broth may be made from the coarsest pieces of meat1 and of any strength1 by adapting the water to the quantity of meat1 and by sufficient simmering4 ,to make the broth good the meat should always be simmered till it is tender1 and will separate without difficulty from the bones4 ,in every case1 as well of broth as of soup1 in order to obtain them with the least boiling1 and consequently most economically1 the meat should be cut into small pieces1 the bones1 if large1 broken1 and the joints1 such as those in a neck of mutton1 separated1 unless the meat be wanted to be served up with the broth or otherwise as a whole joint4 ,broth1 ,i may safely say1 is the essence and foundation of all cookery4 ,among our neighbours1 the ,french1 the broth-pot1 or pot-au-feu1 may be said to be the substratum of the cookery of the middle and working classes4 ,to them it yields a substantial nourishment4 ,any parings or trimmings of meat will serve to make the first broth1 provided the scum and fat be carefully removed4 ,if this be not sedulously attended to1 the broth will be too highly coloured to mix with the sauce4 ,those1 therefore1 who are charged with the stock-pots should skim them slowly over a gentle fire1 adding at intervals a little cold water1 that the scum may rise more copiously4 ,broth should always be in the larder of a good kitchen1 as it is perpetually required for sauces1 braises1 soups1 consomms1 and essences4 ,the great ,english soups are1 real turtle1 mock turtle1 ox-tail1 gravy1 giblet1 hare1 green-pea soup1 and pea soup4 ,the great ,english broths are1 chicken broth1 mutton broth1 ,scotch-barley broth1 veal broth1 and beef broth or tea1 which is almost equivalent to the ,french grand bouillon4 ,real turtle soup is seldom made in private houses1 unless of the very highest distinction4 ,it is generally obtained ready prepared from the ,waterloo ,hotel at ,liverpool1 and from some of the great taverns in the ,city in ,bishopsgate or ,aldersgate ,street1 or from ,gunter's at the ,west end1 who has jars ready prepared1 from the ,west ,indies and ,brazil4 ,twenty-five years ago a great deal of turtle used to come to ,london prepared by ,weeks1 of the ,bush ,hotel1#aa ,bristol4 ,but ,bristol then1 and antecedently1 stood at the head of the ,west-,india trade1 and there were those who preferred the ,bristol-made turtle to that of ,birch1 ,bleaden1 or ,kay4 ,but the ,bush ,hotel no longer exists1 and ,london now bears off the bell for its turtle soup1 as well as for its calipash and calipee4 ,turtle generally arrives in this country about the latter end of ,may or the beginning of ,june1 though1 from the uncertainties of a sea voyage1 no exact period for its first appearance can be fixed4 ,in the year #ahad it was so unusually late1 that at the banquet given in ,guildhall to the ,emperor of ,russia and the ,king of ,prussia1 on the #ahth of ,june1 there was no turtle to be had4 ,the weight of a turtle varies from #cj lbs4 to #ejj lbs4 or #fjj lbs41 and the price from #bs4 #f;d4 to #es4 per pound4 ,the cooking of a turtle is generally performed by a professed artist1 whose fee is from one to two guineas4 ,some epicures prefer the turtle cut into steaks and broiled1 to be eaten with melted butter1 ,cayenne pepper1 and the juice of a ,seville orange4 ,they say the flesh thus quickly dressed retains most flavour4 ,this soup is1 says ,carme1 the most lengthened in its details of any that are known2 8the composition of its seasoning claims an able hand and a strong memory3 the palate of the cook who executes it should be very fine2 none of the ingredients should predominate1 not even the ,cayenne or allspice1 which the ,english cook inconsiderately employs40 ,the great artist divides the dressing of a turtle into four operations1 and on each expends a page4 ,in order to dress the turtle as it ought to be prepared1 he says1 two large legs of veal1 eight fowls1 lean ham in slices1 sweet herbs1 beef stock1 the nut of a ham1 cloves1 ,cayenne1 allspice1 mace1 long pepper1 white pepper1 eight bottles of dry ,madeira1 and sixty eggs1 are necessary4 ,it is therefore clearly better for those who wish to give turtle soup at a dinner1 to have a quart or gallon of it from some first-rate hotel1 than to go to the expense of all these ingredients4 ,gravy1 ox-tail1 mock turtle1 and giblet soups are much more common at ,english dinners than real turtle soup1 for the two sufficient reasons1 that they are more easily prepared1 and that they are less costly4 ,ox-tail1 mock turtle1 hare1 and giblet soups are still made in the fashion in which they were at the beginning of the present century4 ,calf-tail soup is simply made by substituting pieces of calf-tail for ox-tail4 ,it is much more delicate than ox-tail1 and very nutritious4 ,the stocks for white soups are made of veal1 mutton1 fowl1 rabbit1 chicken1 ox-feet1 calf's head and feet1 with bacon and ham4 ,in drawing these stocks1 a bit of ham1 ham-bone1 or lean bacon1 is used with the usual seasoning4 ,fish may be used in thickening meat white soups2 they give a turtleish lightness and flavour4 ,eggs make an excellent thickening for the poorer kinds2 but the richer or more delicate1 are thickened with almonds and artificial or real cream4 ,though the stocks be properly made and well-seasoned1 the thickening and finishing1 nevertheless1 require great care4 ,as to ,french soups1 their name is legion4 ,there is scarcely a complete ,french treatise on the art of cookery that does not contain receipts for at least #aej soups2 but those most used at ,english dinner-tables are1 the pure la ,reine1 the pure des carottes au riz1 the pure de lapins1 la ,chantilly1 la ,colbert1 la ,dauphine1 the potage la brunoise aux pointes d'asperges1 la paysanne1 the la ,julienne1 and la jardinire4 ,there are also the bisques d'crevisse1 de crabe1 de chevrettes1 c4 ,but for all these soups the aid of a really accomplished cook is necessary4 ,italian soups are generally of macaroni1 semolina1 or of rice2 but these1 whether la ,medicis or la ,corinne1 are much better prepared after the ,french than after ,italian receipts4 ,no human being who had any taste in cookery would think of giving the ,german soup made of green rye1 or the soup of poached eggs after the ,styrian fashion2 and ,russian and ,polish soups are not suitable to ,english stomachs4 ,the ,russian cabbage soup may suit a people who love train oil 7which ,theodore ,hook used to say was 8bad for the liver1 but good for the lights071 but assuredly it would be rejected by any civilized ,englishman4 ,i have said in another place that the ,dutch eel soup1 and the soup of herring-roes1 is very relishing4 ,to sum up1 a host in ,england can never go wrong in ordering in the winter months for his guests an ox-tail1 a mock turtle1 a calf-tail1 a giblet or mulligatawney from among ,english soups2 or a brunoise or pure de gelinotte1 a ,julienne1 or a pure la ,reine if he requires a ,french soup4 ,for the spring and summer1 ,english spring soup may be given with turtle1 green pea1 a soup la ,cond1 or pure de navets1 or consomm la ,xavier4 ,illustration ,illustration ,,chapter ,,vii4 ,,how ,,to ,,clean ,,and ,,boil ,,fish4 ,the great thing to be attended to in the preparation of fish1 is to have every particle that is foul or offensive cleansed away4 ,this must1 however1 be accomplished in such a manner1 that the fish may still retain its original firm and stiff appearance1 which is often destroyed by the rough handling it gets while undergoing the process of cleaning4 ,it too frequently happens1 owing to the ignorance of cockney dealers1 that the firmness and fine flavour of the fish is washed away4 ,if not wholly destroyed1 it is in most cases greatly impaired4 ,it is impossible to see one of these smirking1 smiling tradesmen with a watering-pot in hand1 without wishing to give him the benefit of a shower-bath by means of his own engine1 or hoisting him 7to use a ,shakespearian phrase7 by his own petard4 ,in cleaning fish1 a pump of clear spring water is a great advantage1 as the force of the water pumped over the fish will wash off all that is required without subjecting it to scrubbing or handling4 ,in ,london a small hand-engine or hose might be used for the purpose4 ,as a general rule1 it may be remarked1 that all fish should be laid flat on its side1 on either a board or a flat stone4 ,it should be held by the head and shoulders with the left hand1 and all the scales and slime should be scraped off with the right4 ,this done1 the operation should be repeated on the reverse side4 ,the fins should then be cut off1 and the hand-engine or pump used upon the fish to remove any loose scales or slime that may still adhere to it4 ,the fish should then be opened1 the intestines carefully extracted1 well scraping the blood out from the back-bone1 then wash the fish by a pump or in a pan of clean water1 handling it as little as possible4 ,lastly1 take out your fish and hang it up to drain till required for use4 ,never leave a fish in the water one moment after it is washed4 ,if allowed to soak1 the fine flavour of the fish is very materially lessened4 ,,cod-,,fish--requires great care in cleaning1 particularly in cleansing the back-bone from blood1 which spoils the appearance of the sound1 and sometimes renders it too unsightly for the table4 ,to prevent this1 the fish should be cut open for some distance below the vent1 the sound upon one side should be carefully cut off with a sharp knife1 as close as possible to the back-bone1 still leaving it attached to the opposite side1 and then the blood or the intestines of the back-bone should be scraped out with the point of a knife1 or scrubbed out with a small brush2 by this means not only will the blood be removed1 but the sound will wear a much more presentable appearance1 and can be more easily carved1 and without injuring the other parts of the fish4 ,fishes that are to be dressed in their scales1 should be dipped in water1 and rubbed with a coarse towel to remove the slime4 ,but great care should be taken to rub only from the head downwards1 for if rubbed against the grain1 some of the scales may become displaced1 which would1 in a great measure1 frustrate the effect intended to be produced by dressing the fish with this coating upon them4 ,,pilchards--should be dressed without wiping at all2 whilst sprats1 which are better when scaled1 may be deprived of this outward covering with a coarse cloth1 without bruising or injuring the fish4 ,,mackerel--intended for frying1 should be split down the back to the tail1 as indeed should all fish meant to be cured1 whether in pickle or dried2 but whitings1 perch1 small trout1 and all other small fish1 should be opened at the belly4 ,in the preparation of trout1 the back-bone must be scraped very clean1 otherwise the blood collected there will have a black and muddy appearance1 extremely disagreeable to the eye4 ,,plaice--may be considerably improved by being beaten with a flat piece of wood or a rolling-pin1 which has the effect of making the fish eat more firmly4 ,it also removes1 in a great measure1 the flabby and watery appearance this fish possesses4 ,,red ,,mullets--are usually dressed without being either scaled or gutted2 if fresh1 it improves them to extract the intestines carefully1 throwing away the garbage1 and replacing the liver2 but this can only be done when very fresh1 and the liver firm4 ,this process should never be attempted after the fish has been more than six hours out of the water4 ,,skates1 ,,thornbacks1 and all fishes of this kind should be skinned1 a process which will be greatly facilitated by previously scalding the fish in hot water4 ,,salt-,,fish--requires great attention in its preparation for dressing1 and in being properly soaked in water4 ,it is from neglect of these requisites that salt-fish is not so highly esteemed as an article of food as it deserves to be4 ,how often do we see a piece of cod or ling as hard as a stone1 and as salt as the very brine1 from having been carelessly thrown only half-an-hour previous to boiling into water1 perhaps hardly sufficient to cover it1 and from thence transferred to the pot4 ,it is then vigorously boiled until the cook thinks it is sufficiently done to send to table4 ,cooked in this barbarous fashion1 the best salt fish would not be worth the eating4 ,,ling--when being prepared for table1 should soak1 fully immersed1 at least twelve hours in water1 and then be taken out and well scrubbed with a hard brush1 or rubbed with a coarse cloth4 ,it should next be placed either on a flat stone or board to drain for six or eight hours4 ,an experienced cook would then place it in lukewarm water1 and let it remain soaking for from ten to twelve hours longer1 when it will have become pliant and tender1 and also swell considerably4 ,warm water and milk will considerably improve both the flavour and appearance of the fish2 a little vinegar may also be added as an additional means of extracting the salt4 ,the fish requires1 however1 two soakings1 the first water being a kind of pickle1 which becomes in time as salt as the brine from which the fish was taken4 ,,dried ,,cod--requires only half as much soaking each time as salt ling2 unless1 indeed1 the fish be a very large one1 in which case it will require to be soaked nearly as long as a ling4 ,when the fish is placed in water over night1 to be ready early in the morning1 throw one or two wine-glassfuls of vinegar into the water2 take out the fish the first thing in the morning1 and hang it up by its tail to drain4 ,in ,english cookery there is little or no variety in the preparation of fish for the table4 ,three or four modes only of dressing this delicacy are known among us--frying1 boiling1 stewing1 grilling1 c41 and the numerous preparations of fish by which the palate is delighted and the health maintained in other countries1 are not to be seen among the refinements of ,english dinners1 when these latter are confined to dishes of home manufacture4 ,by some strange prejudice1 fish is never eaten among us except at the very beginning of dinner1 following the soup4 ,its appearance at a second course would be considered an anomaly in ,england2 and yet no set of persons in the world will1 very truly says the 8,magazine of ,domestic ,economy10 relish fish at a second course1 on the ,continent1 more than those ,englishmen who have left their prejudices behind them in their native country4 ,in fish1 ,england has always enjoyed an admitted pre-eminence over the nations of the ,continent4 ,the fish brought to her markets is fresher1 finer1 and in greater variety1 yet the uniformity of her cookery in this respect is alternately to foreigners the theme of wonder and ridicule4 ,billingsgate1 adjoining the ,custom ,house1 is the mart whence this vast metropolis is supplied4 ,the fishmongers exhibit their stores on trays of marble or of lead4 ,every tide brings up fleets of vessels varying in size1 the ,berwick smack1 the ,dutch galliot1 the ,norway fishing-boats and the well-appointed steamer4 ,there are smacks laden with salmon packed in ice2 ,dutch schuyts with their wells filled with luxurious turbots1 or delicious eels2 boats and barges almost sinking with their plentiful cargoes of cod1 haddock1 skate1 soles1 herrings1 or mackerel1 according to the season2 oysters1 crabs1 lobsters1 crawfish1 c41 c4 ,hither the ,brighton mackerel and soles1 at the commencement of the season1 are forwarded by land and rail carriage1 and occasionally those welcome guests at the tables of the great and opulent1 the john-dory1 and the mullet1 both gray and scarlet4 ,the traffic is under proper regulations4 ,oysters1 muscles1 cockles1 sprats1 and other fish that are sold by measure1 are subject to the inspection of the city-meters4 ,around ,billingsgate and in its vicinity are numerous dealers in salt and dried fish1 such as salmon1 cod1 ling1 and herrings4 ,in the spring and summer seasons the supply from ,newcastle of that great delicacy1 pickled salmon1 is very considerable1 and great quantities daily arrive fresh from ,ireland and ,scotland by steam and rail4 ,the money expended annually in the purchase of fish landed at this place1 is of enormous amount3 it has been said that the ,dutch used to take yearly from our current coin1 fifty thousand guineas for turbot only6 ,the principal market-day at ,billingsgate is ,monday4 ,dr4 ,m',culloch asserts that a small proportion of sugar will keep fish perfectly fresh for several days2 but the fish must be fresh when it is applied1 as it will not recover from taint4 ,sugar also cures salmon and white fish1 which keeps any length of time in a dried state1 provided it is not allowed to get damp4 ,a little salt may be added to the sugar to please the taste4 ,the directions are3--,to lay the fish upon its side and rub it with a little sugar1 particularly about the stomach and throat2 two or three tea-spoonfuls is enough for a good-sized salmon4 ,if it be kept fresh1 there will be no occasion to open it4 ,,salmon--if large1 should be dressed in slices like cod2 if small1 on the contrary1 it may be dressed whole1 fixing the tail in the mouth by means of a skewer1 and boil it in a turbot-kettle4 ,the fish is sent to table resting on its belly side1 the back being uppermost4 ,the liver and spawn1 as in the cod1 takes a longer time than the other parts to boil it thoroughly2 and if eaten underdone1 it is extremely unwholesome4 ,salmon1 when not crimped1 should be put into cold water and boiled gradually1 but if dressed in thin slices1 it should be plunged into hot water at once4 ,after allowing it to remain a minute or two in the fish-kettle1 raise it out of the hot water for a couple of minutes2 let this process be repeated three or four times1 and it will cause the curd to set1 and the fish to eat more crisp4 ,when you have followed these directions1 allow the fish to boil at a moderate pace until it is thoroughly done1 for nothing is more indigestible than underdone salmon4 ,be careful in removing the scum during the boiling4 ,the hardest water is recommended as preferable for boiling salmon4 ,,observations ,,on ,,boiling ,,fish4 ,if the fishmonger does not clean it1 fish is seldom very nicely done2 but those in great towns wash the fish beyond what is necessary for cleaning1 and by perpetual watering1 diminish the flavour4 ,when quite clean1 if to be boiled1 some salt and a little vinegar should be put into the water to give firmness2 but cod1 whiting1 and haddock1 are far better if a little salted1 and kept a day2 and if it be not very hot weather1 they will be good for two days4 ,fresh-water fish has often a muddy smell and taste3 to take this off1 soak it in strong salt and water after it is nicely cleaned2 or1 if of a size to bear it1 scald it in the same compound2 then dry and dress it4 ,the fish must be put into the water while cold1 and set to boil very gently1 or the outside will break before the inner part is done4 ,,crimped ,,fish should be put into boiling water1 with salt2 and when it boils up1 pour a little cold water in to check extreme heat1 and let it simmer for a few minutes by the side of the fire4 ,illustration ,illustration ,,chapter ,,viii4 ,,on ,,fish4 ,plutarch tells us that ,symmachus and ,polycrates wrote treatises to prove that the 8innocent fishes0 should be respected1 and that they who ate of them were among the most ferocious of men4 ,according to ,columella1 however1 ,apollo was called by the ,greeks1 because they considered that the god of music1 poetry1 and eloquence should only feed on the most delicate and dainty diet2 and such the ,greeks considered fish4 ,it is curious that the epithet 8innocent0 is also applied to fish1 naturally most voracious1 by ,st4 ,augustine4 8,fishes were spared from the malediction10 says this father of the ,church1 8because it was not the fish of the sea1 but the fruits of the earth which contributed to the fall of our first parents40 ,whatever ,plutarch or ,augustine may say to the contrary1 however1 fish was used as a diet by the earliest ,christians2 and none were more celebrated in increasing the breed of fish1 whether on the ,continent or in ,england1 than the earlier ,churchmen--the much abused monks of the middle ages4 ,there is1 in truth1 no more wholesome or palatable diet than good fish2 and one dish of fish1 and sometimes two1 is generally found at a gentleman's dinner-table in ,england1 if he entertains a family-party of four or six4 ,but though we have the finest fish in the world in this country1 we do not dress it in the variety of ways in which it is served in ,france4 ,unless immediately after the soup1 we seldom eat fish1 whereas in most ,continental countries it is served dressed as an entre1 and in this manner it is most wholesome1 as well as very relishing4 ,probably1 turbot1 during the height of the ,london season1 is more frequently seen than any other fish at ,english dinner-tables4 ,it is almost always plainly boiled and served with lobster sauce1 whereas in ,france it is served in fifteen or twenty ways1 at the least1 as will appear from the following list3-- ,turbot sauce flamande4 ,turbot sauce hollandaise4 ,eminc de turbot la ,bchamel au maigre4 ,eminc au gratin garni de pommes de terre4 ,escalope de turbot aux truffes1 sauce ,prigueux4 ,saut de turbot sauce au beurre et aux queues d'crevisses4 ,saut de turbot sauce aux fines herbes et aux huitres4 ,saut de turbot sauce la gnoise4 ,filets de turbot la ,sainte ,mnhould4 ,filets de turbot panns a l'allemande4 ,filets l'anglaise sauce aux chevrettes4 ,papillotes des filets de turbot la matre d'htel4 ,orly de turbot4 ,fritot de turbot la provenale1 c4 ,juvenal1 in his fourth ,satire1 tells us what store ,roman epicures set on turbot1 and gives a description of the company assembled by order of ,domitian to pronounce on the goodness of the fish4 ,the graphic pages of ,suetonius1 the vigorous periods of ,tacitus1 and the scourging satire of ,juvenal1 were employed to show up the vices of ,domitian4 ,berchoux1 in his poem 8,la ,gastronomie10 thus paraphrases ,juvenal3-- 8,domitien un jour se prsente au snat3 ,pres conscrits1 dit-il1 un affaire d'tat ,m'appelle auprs de vous4 ,je ne viens point vous dire ,qu'il s'agit de vieller au salut de l'empire2 ,exciter votre zle1 et prendre vos avis ,sur les destines de ,rome1 et des peuples conquis2 ,agiter avec vous ou la paix ou la guerre1 ,vains projets sur lesquels vous n'avez qu' vous taire2 ,il s'agit d'un turbot3 daignez dliberer ,sur la sauce qu'on doit lui faire preparer4444 ,le snat mit aux voix cette affaire importante1 ,et le turbot fut mis la sauce piquante40#ab ,the turbot is found in all seas4 ,they are very large in the ocean and the ,mediterranean4 ,rondelet says he has seen turbot five fathoms long1 four in breadth1 and a foot thick4 ,such turbots have never been seen in ,england4 ,a turbot weighing from ten to twelve pounds is generally coarse and woolly4 ,the best flavoured are the moderate sized1 called chicken turbot1 weighing from three to six pounds4 ,in the middle ages1 the turbot was called the phasianus aquaticus1 or water-pheasant4 ,the turbot is very voracious1 and is especially fond of cray-fish4 ,turbot is thus described in one of the volumes of the 8,almanach des ,gourmands03-- 8,turbot is the pheasant of the sea1 because of its beauty3 it is the king of ,lent1 because of its majestic size4 ,it is ordinarily served au court bouillon4 ,the turbot has the simplicity and majesty of a hero1 and every species of ornament offends him much more than it honours him4 ,on the day after he makes his first appearance1 it is quite another affair2 he may be then disguised4 ,the best manner of effecting this is to dress him in ,bchamel1 a preparation thus called after the ,marquis de ,bchamel1 matre d'htel of ,louis ,,xiv41 who has for ever immortalised himself by this one ragot40 ,turbot is best from ,march to ,september1 but is eaten all the year round4 ,sturgeon1 called the royal fish 7because by a statute of ,edward ,,ii4 it is said 8the king shall have sturgeon taken in the sea1 or elsewhere1 within the realm071 is seldom seen at private tables in ,england4 ,two distinct species have been distinguished by the fishermen of the ,solway ,firth2 but several species frequent the rivers of ,russia4 ,caviare1 so much used in ,russia1 and now very generally imported into this country1 is made of the roe of the female sturgeon4 ,the flesh of the sturgeon1 besides being preserved by salting and pickling1 is in request for the table while fresh1 and is generally served with a rich sauce4 ,the appearance and flavour of sturgeon is not unlike that of veal4 ,the flesh1 like that of most of the cartilaginous fishes1 is more firm and compact than is usual among those of the osseous families4 ,when fresh1 sturgeon is as white as the very finest veal2 when red1 nothing whatever can be done with it4 ,there are thirty different methods of dressing sturgeon in ,france4 ,i give the names of a few of them3-- ,darne d'esturgeon la broche sauce gnoise4 ,esturgeon en ,tortue4 ,esturgeon au vin de madere ou de champagne4 ,cotelletes d'esturgeon la ,sainte ,mnhould4 ,filets d'esturgeon la ,orly4 ,papillotes d'esturgeon aux fines herbes4 ,sturgeons in ,england are roasted1 or baked1 or boiled in ,ude's manner1 or served la ,beaufort1 for which there is a receipt in ,francatelli's 8,modern ,cook40 ,portions of this fish may be also served in blanquettes1 and croquettes1 and as cutlets4 ,i give ,carme's receipt for serving a sturgeon la ,napoleon4 ,it will be seen that it requires three bottles of champagne4 ,esturgeon la ,napoleon4--,clean and tie up a piece of sturgeon 7two feet and a half in length71 dress it in a ,mirepoix moistened with three bottles of champagne1 and two ladlesful of consomm2 proceed with it as above directed2 take off the skin1 glaze1 and dish it1 surrounding it with a ragot la ,rgence1 consisting of small quenelles of whitings1 with cray-fish-butter1 truffles1 carps' tongues1 and mushrooms1 of each a plateful2 before putting them into the sauce1 mix a good piece of cray-fish-butter and a little glaze with it2 the ragot should receive scarcely a boiling afterwards2 lay upon the ragot some white roes of carp1 and livers of turbots1 and surround it with a garniture of fillets of soles1 decorated with truffles2 fix eight hatelettes 7skewers7 garnished with truffles1 cray-fish1 and smelts1 turned round1 and boiled in salt water1 and always serve a portion of the ragot in a sauce-boat4 ,in ,america they make a sturgeon soup from the fresh fish1 and there is also a 8sturgeon soup l'anglaise et l'indienne0--the receipts for which may be found in ,francatelli's 8,modern ,cook40 ,the ,romans much vaunted a sturgeon1 and when served crowned it with flowers4 ,the ,greeks also considered it as the best dish at their grand repasts4 ,next to turbot1 the fish most in request at ,english dinner-tables during the season is salmon4 ,our chief salmon fisheries are carried on in the rivers and estuaries of ,scotland2 but the finest salmon in the ,london market comes from the ,southampton water1 near ,christchurch2 and much good salmon is also sent to ,billingsgate both from ,ireland and ,holland4 ,the produce of the fishings of the rivers ,tay1 ,dee1 ,don1 ,skey1 ,findhorn1 ,beauley1 ,borriedale1 ,thurso1 and the coasts adjacent1 are conveyed in steam-boats and small sailing-vessels to ,aberdeen1 where they are packed with ice in boxes1 and sent to ,london4 ,the ,severn salmon is in season in ,january1 ,february1 ,march1 ,october1 ,november1 and ,december2 and the ,scotch from ,march to ,september4 ,there are innumerable ways of dressing salmon practised by ,french cooks1 such as ,darne de saumon au vin de champagne1 sauce au beurre d'crevisses1 saumon au court bouillon1 la franaise1 la ,rgence1 la ,cardinale1 c42 but it may be questioned whether salmon is ever eaten with more relish or satisfaction by ,englishmen than when plain boiled1 either whole or in slices1 in the ,english fashion4 ,it may be served with lobster1 shrimp1 ,dutch1 or parsley-and-butter sauce4 ,the slices of crimped salmon served at ,london dinners in ,may and ,june1 are1 to my mind1 perfection4 ,nonius says of this fish1--8,carnem enim habet teneram dulcem et prpinquem40 ,the cod-fish brought to ,england is much finer than that sold on the ,continent2 and from ,november to ,april there can be no better dish than slices of crimped cod1 done either in the ,english or the ,dutch fashion1 which most ,englishmen prefer to the more elaborate dressing of ,french cooks4 ,a ,bchamel of cod-fish in the ,french fashion is1 however1 a very good thing2 and cabillaud grill la ,laguipierre is excellent4 ,this last was said to be a favourite dish with the late ,duke of ,wellington2 and certain it is1 that it was often placed on the table both at ,strathfieldsaye and at ,apsley ,house4 ,the haddock1 which is now more commonly served at ,english dinner-tables than in my youth1 is an excellent fish when of the proper size4 ,the ,dublin ,bay haddock is pre-eminently good1 and merits the encomium of ,galen3--8,aselli si probo utantur alimento et in maripuro degunt1 carnis bonitate cum saxatilibus contendunt40#ac ,pliny also in his ninth book1 cap4 xvii41 says the haddock 8post acipenserem apud antiquos nobilis simum piscium40#ad ,haddocks1 to my thinking1 are best dressed in the ,english fashion--boiled1 either with egg or parsley-and-butter sauce4 ,in ,ireland1 they sometimes serve them with cockle sauce3 and an excellent friend of mine 7the son of a late accomplished and eloquent ,chief ,justice of the ,queen's ,bench7 tells me they are admirable in this fashion4 ,in ,french cookery1 the haddock is generally dressed and served as cod-fish is dressed4 ,there are worse things than a fillet of haddock la ,royale1 or l'italienne4 ,there is no more nourishing or easily digested fish than the sole1 and it is in season all the year round4 ,the richest and largest sole1 called by some the black sole1 comes from the ,devon coast2 and these1 as well as the ,dover sole1 and the black sole of ,ireland1 are best plain boiled4 ,the smaller and whiter sole found on the coast of ,sussex is best fried4 ,lemery calls the sole1 perdrix marina 7the partridge of the sea72 and ,ovid classes it with the flounder1 to which it is far superior4 8,fulgentes sole candore et concolorillis passer40 ,there are thirty or more excellent ways of serving sole in the ,french fashion1 the principal of which are la ,colbert1 la ,perigord1 au gratin1 en matelote normande1 la provenale1 filets de soles aux truffes1 et aux fines herbes4 ,all of these are excellent1 but require a good cook4 ,if you are not sure of your cook1 order your soles to be fried or plainly boiled4 ,i must say a word on the fish of which the celebrated ,roman orator ,hortensius was so fond--a fish furnishing occasion for the epigrams of ,martial1 and the scathing satire of ,juvenal4 ,red mullet is only prime during the warm weather1 and is best done en papillote4 ,it may also be done en caisse aux fines herbes1 l'italienne1 and l ,cardinale1 but in no way is it so good as en papillote4 ,mullet should never be drawn2 it is sufficient to take out the gills1 as the liver and trail are the best parts of the fish4 ,when we know that ,apicius spent #fj1jjj to vary the taste of sauces1 we can well believe that a sum of #bdj was given in the olden time1 at ,rome1 for three mullets of a large size4 ,i will only speak of two other fishes1 the john-dory and the lamprey4 ,the john-dory is finest on the western coast of ,england1 and is best plain boiled4 ,quin1 the actor1 a great gourmand1 was remarkably fond of this fish and red mullet1 and used to go down to ,exeter for the purpose of eating them4 ,one morning after his arrival in the west1 his valet came in to call him as usual4 8,well1 ,john1 any dory in the market80 8,no1 sir40 8,very well2 ,i'll lay a-bed to-day4 ,you may call me this time to-morrow40 ,there are two kinds of lampreys--the marine lamprey1 found at ,worcester and ,gloucester1 where it is dressed and preserved1 to be heated up with a wine4 ,the other1 the lampern1 is found in the ,thames from ,october till ,march4 ,the lamprey is in the best condition in ,april and ,may4 ,receipts for dressing lamprey1 la ,forey1 la ,beauchamp1 and la ,beaufort1 may be found in ,francatelli's 8,modern ,cook40 ,while on the chapter on fish1 ,i may as well state that the late ,marquis de ,cussy1 prefect of the palace of the first ,napoleon1 has published a book1 in which he states his belief that the ,reformation was brought about by the compulsory use of fish and meagre fare on particular days4 ,here are his words3-- 8,the schism of ,martin ,luther was really and seriously occasioned by the fastings and the like punishments inflicted on the true believers of ,germany4 ,the spiritual power should never meddle with the kitchen4 ,in consequence of this fault1 the situation of the ,church was changed in ,europe40 ,carme's thoughts on living on maigre diet are equally curious4 8,it is in a lenten kitchen10 he says1 8that the cleverness of a cook can shed a brilliant light4 ,it was in the ,elyse ,imperial1 and by the example of the famous ,laguipierre and ,robert1 that ,i was initiated into this fine branch of the art1 and it is inexpressible4 ,the years of '#ic and '#id1 in their terrible and devastating course1 respected these strong heads 7ces fortes ttes74 ,when our valiant ,first ,consul appeared at the head of affairs1 our miseries and those of gastronomy finished4 ,when the empire came1 one heard of soups and entres maigres4 ,the splendid maigre first appeared at the table of the ,princess ,caroline ,murat4 ,this was the sanctuary of good cheer1 and ,murat was one of the first to do penitence4 ,but what a penitence60 ,one does not know whether to be indignant or to laugh at this4 ,the old proverb1 8set a beggar on horseback and he will ride to the devil10 is undoubtedly true4 ,a few years before the consulate1 the ambitious ,caroline ,buonaparte1 afterwards wife of ,murat1 was1 with her mother and the other female members of her family1 in so destitute a situation at ,marseilles1 that they had not the means of buying wood to warm themselves2 and as to ,murat1 her husband1 it is well known that he rose from the very dregs of society1 his father being a village innkeeper at ,bastide ,frontonire1 in the department of ,lot4 ,it was ,murat's kitchen1 ,carme tells us1 that restored le beau maigre to mother ,church4 ,thus the great chef unfolds his views as to fish dinners3-- 8,succulence1 variety1 and recherche1 ,murat undoubtedly desired at his table1 and his wishes were supplied4 ,but he owed all these things to our great ,laguipierre0 7his cook67 8whom he loved4 ,what a labour was ,laguipierre's6 ,this glorious establishment of ,murat's1 exhibiting the grandeur of a royal household1 was dearly loved by all true gastronomes4 ,the causes of its splendour were the magnificence of the prince1 the splendid1 friendly1 and associated talents of ,m4 ,robert1 his comptroller1 and of the famous ,laguipierre1 his chef de cuisine4 ,i had the happiness1 during two years1 of being the first assistant of ,laguipierre1 as well as his friend4 ,in that time we recreated that grand cuisine maigre1 and restored le beau maigre to old ,mother ,church40 ,any one who wishes to dip further into the literature of fish dinners1 should read the article on red herrings1 in the fourth volume of the 8,almanach des ,gourmands20 the description of the house of ,billiote1 whose cookery and cellars were patronized by the whole body of the ,french clergy1 and the description of the account of the table d'hte1 au nom de ,jsus1 in the ,clotre ,st4 ,jacques de l',hpital1 where a fish dinner was served up every ,wednesday1 ,friday1 and ,saturday1 for the moderate sum of two francs ten sous4 ,such a dinner in ,imperial ,france of #ahfd would cost four times the money4 ,when ,i first knew ,paris as a youth in #ahbb1 the most famous place for a fish dinner was the ,rocher de ,cancale1 in the ,rue ,montorguiel4 ,it was then and had for eighteen or twenty years before been kept by ,m4 ,baleine1 aided by ,madame ,beauvais4 ,in the sixth volume of the 8,almanach des ,gourmands10 published in #ahjh1 it is stated that this famous restaurant was in that year frequented by ,russian princes1 ,german barons1 and the lite of diplomatic society1 who then ordered dinners at ten1 fifteen1 and eighteen francs per head1 without wine4 ,the cook at this period was said to be one of the best in ,paris1 and the reputation of the house continued till #ahdj1 and even later4 ,you were always sure to find the finest and freshest fish at the ,rocher de ,cancale2 and the poultry1 and meats1 and game were also of the choicest4 ,but the year #ahdh1 which upset the ,orleans dynasty1 ruined this famous establishment1 and it is now only numbered as a thing of the past4 ,i remember dining there with a party of six persons in the year #ahbh1 the bill for our dinner amounted to #dej francs1 or #ge francs per head1 including wine4 ,the dinner principally consisted of divers kinds of fish and game4 ,from this dinner1 composed of a bisque or ,french soup1 with fillets of turbot and various entres of fish and game1 every one of the party rose hungry4 ,on this occasion some ,chateau ,margaux was ordered1 said to be in bottle from #aghi1 a period of thirty-nine years1 for which a charge of fourteen francs per bottle was made4 ,but this would now be considered a bagatelle1 as at several of the restaurants in ,paris there is ,chateau ,margaux charged at twenty and twenty-five francs per bottle1 not a quarter so old as the wine of which ,i speak4 ,the most expensive part of the #ahbh dinner was the fish1 and not the wine4 ,m4 ,ferdinand ,fayot1 in his 8,treatise de la ,table particulire de ,m4 ,talleyrand10 relates the following anecdote of an abb who was wont to frequent the ,rocher de ,cancale for its fish3-- 8,a certain abb1 who was uncommonly fond of fish1 often visited the ,rocher de ,cancale4 ,upon one occasion1 having dined copiously of salmon1 a heavy indigestion was the consequence4 ,three days afterwards1 whilst saying mass1 the idea of the fish came across his mind1 and1 instead of saying the mea culpa of the ,confiteor1 he was heard to repeat1 in striking his breast1 #8,ah1 le bon saumon6 ah1 le bon saumon6'0 ,illustration ,illustration ,,chapter ,,ix4 ,,the ,,roast4 ,the definition given of the word roast in the 8,dictionnaire des termes du vieux ,franois10#ae is a very curious one4 ,here it is3--8,rost et raust du rosty4 ,ce mot vient de rusticus parceque le feu noirci1 et brule la viande comme le soleil qui hle le visage des paysans40 ,anything more futile1 trivial1 and far-fetched than this it were impossible to conceive2 yet a person daily accustomed to lexicographic studies will simply smile at meanings so forced and strained--meanings very common1 however1 with dictionary makers and lexicographers4 ,boxhornius1 in his ,britannico-,latin ,dictionary1 tells us rhost 7sic7 is an ancient ,british word4 8,antiquam esse vocem ,brittanicam1 ostendit nomen ,regis ,armoricani1 ,daniel ,dremrost ab ustis1 oculis1 vel usto vultu sic dicti40 ,wolfgang ,lazius1 also1 in his tenth book1 8de ,migrationibus ,gentium0 states that rost 7sic7 in the ,vandal and ,teuton languages signifies a grill2 and ,jean ,bruyre1 in his book 8de ,re ,cibari10#af says1 that in early times in ,france1 a guest who was invited to a dinner without a roast on a day when it was lawful to eat meat--in other words1 to live en gras--fared very frugally indeed1 if by any accident the roast was omitted4 ,this can be well credited1 for among the ,english and ,french the roast has been always the principal dish1 or1 as our neighbours would say1 the pice de rsistance4 ,in very early times1 in ,paris1 there were what were called in old ,french1 rstisseries1 where roast meats were sold ready to be eaten instantly at meals4 ,du ,loir tells us that in the medival times1 an ,italian patriarch thought nothing so admirable at ,paris as these rtisseries1 where he could find such delicate tit-bits as a roast gigot1 or a roast shoulder or leg of lamb4 ,the rtisseries were kept by rtisseurs and rtisseuses1 and they exist to this day4 ,there were independently of these general rtisseurs1 and rtisseuses as they were called en blanc1 who sold only larded roasts1 such as filets piqus1 c4 ,the traiteur1 or the cuisinier traiteur1 was sometimes also a rtisseur1 a calling distinguished from the ptissier or pastry-cook4 ,the ,company of ,matre ,rtisseurs in ,france was much older than the ,company of ,matre ,cuisiniers1 which latter was only erected into a corporation in #aeei1 in the reign of ,henry ,,iv4 ,the statutes of the ,matre ,rtisseurs were granted by ,stephen ,boileau1 ,provost of ,paris1 about #abeh4 ,the rtisseurs1 for the most part1 lived in the street called ,aux ,oyers1 where1 so late as #agfg1 a great many of them were established4 ,i have in another and preceding chapter remarked1 that the ,french kitchen was very much indebted to ,italian cookery4 ,the truth is1 that the ,italians of the middle ages have been in most sciences the instructors of ,europe4 ,catherine de ,medici came to ,france surrounded with a legion of cooks1 rtisseurs and ptissiers1 and these new-comers first improved the cookery already existing1 and having found apt scholars in the ,french1 were soon surpassed by their pupils4 ,the art of roasting is considered an especial art by our neighbours4 ,it is very true1 that there is no process in cookery so simple1 and yet very few can accomplish it properly4 ,a roast1 whether of beef1 mutton1 venison1 lamb1 or fowl1 should neither be under nor over done4 ,the great secret therefore is to avoid either extreme1 and so to hit the middle point4 ,venison1 beef1 mutton1 lamb1 require to be equally done through all the parts1 yet no portion of the gravy should be wasted4 ,scorching is not roasting1 and burning is not browning a joint4 ,the best joint of beef for roasting in ,england is the sirloin4 ,the fire should be brisk and clear1 as well as large1 steady1 and intense in proportion to the size of the joint1 and the meat should be perpetually basted1 so that no cessation in the process should take place4 ,large joints should be put down soon after the fire is made up and begins to burn4 ,the gradual access of the heat to meat prevents its burning4 ,if a joint be burned in the early process1 it is an evil scarcely remediable in the subsequent stages of the operation of roasting4 ,for this reason it is that in the great kitchens in ,france there is always some one whose special duty it is to attend to the roast alone4 ,in the fourth volume of the 8,almanach des ,gourmands10 it is said that a dinner may be compared to the rooms of a house1 and the roast is the salon or principal apartment4 8,the salon in a ,french house10 says ,m4 ,grimod de la ,reynire1 8is the room on which an hospitable host spends all his spare money4 ,it is furnished and decorated with the greatest care1 because in this room the master receives his friends4 ,just a like process is pursued in respect to the roast that smokes upon his table4 ,it is the dish that has cost him most money1 and on which he hopes to content and feast his guests40 ,it is1 therefore1 most important that the roast1 by its excellence1 juice1 and tenderness1 should satisfy2 for if it be bad1 burned1 or hard1 all however excellent that has preceded it1 is forgotten2 a tristful silence succeeds to hilarity1 and the grieved ,amphitryon seeks to repair the blunder of his cook by the production of excellent wine4 ,the misfortune is1 that there is no strict law to 8rule the roast40 ,the doing it to a turn depends on a congeries of circumstances and contingencies which are eternally varying4 ,the beef or mutton may be old1 tough1 sinewy1 or not sufficiently hung4 ,a great deal depends on the size of the coal or wood before which it is placed4 ,much also on the regular basting or the punctual arrival of the guests4 ,sometimes a delay of five or ten minutes spoils a beautiful roast joint1 and renders it flavourless and insipid4 8,ainsi10 says ,grimod1 7becoming poetical7 8,ainsi que la beaut dans sa fleur1 il n'a qu'un moment pour tre cuelli et ce moment une fois pass ne revient jamais40 ,it is not therefore an exaggeration to say that good roasters are even more difficult to find than good cooks4 ,it was the opinion of so competent a judge as this1 that in an establishment where the cook attended both to the preparing of the dinner and the roast1 the roast was sure to be bad4 ,i will not go to this length1 for an experienced kitchen-maid can always bestow on the roast of the first and second course all the attention necessary4 ,the roast1 according to this great and experienced authority1 is divided into great and little roast--gros rt et petit rt4 ,the larger roast comprises venison1 beef1 mutton1 veal1 lamb1 and pork1 quarters of wild boar1 c41 and the smaller1 fowl1 grouse1 and small birds4 ,grimod recommends that smaller birds should be larded with a slice of good lard4 ,great care should be taken in the selection of the lard1 for a rancid lard will spoil the best bird that ever flew4 ,at large dinners1 the editor of the 8,almanach0 holds that the roast should be served without entres or entremets1 flanked merely by four different salades4 ,a general rule among cooks is to allow a quarter of an hour to each pound of the joint4 ,thus a joint of eight pounds will take two hours4 ,slow roasting adds to the tenderness and flavour of a joint1 and it may be observed1 that the longer a joint is kept the less time it will require in roasting4 ,our roasts in ,england 7with the single exception of a leg of mutton7 are better than in ,france4 ,the quality of the meat 7with the exception of veal7 is much better1 and good ,english cooks excel in roasting meat and game4 ,our game is much finer than in ,france1 though we have nothing to equal the ,french poularde of the ,mans1 in the department of the ,sarthe4 ,nothing in ,france can compare to our haunches and necks of venison1 to our barons and sirloins of beef1 to our haunches1 saddles1 and legs of mutton1 to our barons and fore-quarters of lamb4 ,our beef is in season all the year round1 and may be given as a roast from ,october to ,march4 ,our saddles1 haunches1 legs1 and necks of mutton1 may also be given as a roast for the first course1 being varied with pork1 veal1 and roast turkey4 ,for a second course in ,january and ,february1 we have widgeon and woodcock1 snipe1 teal1 wild duck and black game1 hares1 c4 ,all this game is better flavoured and better roasted in ,england than in ,france4 ,in ,april1 we have excellent lamb for a first course1 with guinea-fowls and ducklings for a second4 ,in ,may we have poulardes and quails1 turkey poults1 c41 for a second4 ,venison begins in ,june1 and in ,august we have grouse1 and that excellent bird the golden plover4 ,a little later come partridges1 black cock1 and then snipe and wild duck1 while lamb and mutton alternate in the first4 ,mutton1 whether as a roast1 or an entre in the shape of cutlets1 can be alike served2 and with ,swift's receipt for roasting mutton1 ,i will conclude this branch of the subject3 8,gently stir and blow the fire1 ,lay the mutton down to roast1 ,dress it quickly1 ,i desire2 ,in the dripping put a toast1 ,that ,i hunger may remove2-- ,mutton is the meat ,i love4 ,on the dresser see it lie2 ,oh6 the charming white and red6 ,finer meat ne'er met the eye1 ,on the sweetest grass it fed2 ,let the jack go swiftly round1 ,let me have it nicely brown'd4 ,on the table spread the cloth1 ,let the knives be sharp and clean1 ,pickles get and salad both1 ,let them each be fresh and green4 ,with small beer1 good ale1 and wine1 ,o ye gods6 how ,i shall dine60 ,i by no means mean to imply that our neighbours1 the ,french1 have not a greater variety of ways of dressing their roasts for first and second courses than we have2 all ,i mean to assert is1 that our simple roasting of venison1 beef1 mutton1 and game1 is better than the ,french4 ,the material to work upon is incomparably better4 ,toujours perdrix1 however1 is sure to pall on the palate1 and our object should be to vary our mode of dressing these excellent materials4 ,till schools of cookery become more general1 it will not be safe for a host1 with an ordinary plain cook1 to set before his guest a filet de buf1 sauce la poivrade1 a salmi of partridge1 or a filet de canard sauvage4 ,it would even be a dangerous experiment in many cases to essay a loin of veal la ,bchamel1 fillets of fowl la tartare1 a common fricasse of chicken1 or a braized saddle of lamb la jardinire4 ,it is perhaps unnecessary to say that pork1 veal1 and lamb should be done well2 turkeys and fowls should have no red in them1 but game should be somewhat underdone4 ,i have already said that the time necessary to roast a joint depends on a variety of circumstances1 of which an experienced male or female cook will be the best judge4 ,the following table1 however1 very nearly approximates to the exact time1 supposing a coal fire to be employed3-- ,a joint of beef weighing #bj lbs4 #d hours4 #aj lbs4 #b #f lbs4 #b ,a joint of veal #aj lbs4 #c #d lbs4 #b ,a joint of mutton #aj lbs4 #b #f lbs4 #a #d lbs4 #a ,a leg of lamb #a ,a joint of fresh pork #h lbs4 #d #d lbs4 #a ,a haunch of buck venison #d ,a neck of buck #a to #b ,a joint of venison #aj lbs4 #b #f lbs4 #a 7,venison should be rather under than over done47 ,a large turkey #b ,a medium-sized one #a ,a turkey poult #a ,a capon #a ,a poularde #a ,a large fowl ,a goose #a to #a ,a gosling ,a pigeon ,a hare #a ,a leveret ,a rabbit ,a pheasant ,a partridge #bj minutes4 ,cock of the wood1 or black game1 #a to #a hour4 ,grouse ,woodcock ,snipe #bj minutes4 ,golden plover #bj ,teal #ae ,quail #bj ,larks #bj ,ortolans #ae ,fig-pecker #ae ,illustration ,illustration ,,chapter ,x4 ,,boiling4 ,all meats should be boiled slowly1 in sufficient water2 and a ham should not be allowed to boil until a very short time before it is taken out of the pot1 in which it has been allowed to simmer slowly for four1 five1 or six hours1 according to its size1 age1 c4 ,when meats are boiled fast1 the outside is hardened before the inside is warm2 in addition to which the meat becomes discoloured4 ,it is usual in boiling as well as in roasting1 to allow a quarter of an hour's boiling to every pound of meat4 ,the rule usually is a good one1 but there are several exceptions1 that will task the discretion and science of a cook4 ,if the joint be large and thick1 such as buttock or round of beef1 more than a quarter of an hour must be allowed for each pound4 ,if1 however1 the joint be a small or a thin one1 such as a neck of lamb1 somewhat less than a quarter of an hour for each pound will suffice4 ,during the process of boiling meat or fish1 the scum which arises should be skimmed off1 otherwise the meat or fish will be discoloured4 ,the majority of cookery books direct that fresh meat should be put into water when it boils1 and salt meat when the water is cold2 but the better opinion seems now to be that fresh and salted meats should be put into cold water1 and allowed to become hot gradually4 ,the five constituent properties of the flesh of animals used by man are--fibrine1 gelatine1 osmazone1 fat1 and albumen4 ,gelatine is soluble only in boiling or very hot water1 whereas osmazone is very soluble1 even in cold water1 and contains the sapid principle of all meats4 ,fat is insoluble in water1 but the heat melts it1 when it floats in a liquid form on the surface4 ,albumen resembles the white of an egg4 ,it is soluble in cold or lukewarm water1 and coagulates at a less temperature than that of boiling water4 ,albumen abounds in the blood1 and exists in portions of the flesh of animals4 ,it is the albumen1 in coagulating after having been dissolved1 which causes the scum to rise in the liquid in which a joint has been boiled4 ,it is evident that if the meat be put in a vessel with boiling water1 or if the water being cold be boiled too quickly1 the albumen in the first case by coagulating on the surface of the water1 and in the second in the interior of the joint of meat1 prevents the gelatine and osmazone from dissolving4 ,though boiling does not require so much nicety and care as roasting1 yet it is seldom perfectly performed4 ,it requires patient watchfulness and vigilance4 8,it is natural10 says ,count ,rumford1 8to suppose that many of the finer and more volatile parts of food must be carried off by the steam when the boiling is violent4 ,the water should be heated gradually until it boils1 for the slower the meat boils the more juicy and tender will it be4 ,meat freshly killed takes longer to boil than when it has been properly hung1 and meat killed in cold or frosty weather takes longer to boil than meat killed in summer4 ,meat or poultry should not be allowed to remain in the water after they are done1 as they soon become sodden40 ,it is usual to boil lamb1 veal1 and pork longer than beef or mutton4 ,of course all vessels in which meat is boiled1 should be clean and wholesome4 ,vessels of copper1 brass1 and lead must be avoided in cookery1 unless the inside be well tinned4 ,the best saucepans are of iron1 tinned in the inside4 ,i would observe1 that salmon requires nearly as much boiling as meat1 that is to say1 about a quarter of an hour to every pound of fish4 ,turbot1 salmon1 john-dory1 cod-fish1 haddocks1 brill1 skate1 and the large ,dover and ,west of ,england black soles1 are best boiled4 ,other kinds of sea-fish are best fried or filleted1 or done in the ,french fashion1 such as filets de turbot1 sauce suprme1 or escalopes de turbot1 aux truffes la ,royale4 ,cod-fish1 besides being boiled or fried1 may be served in twenty ways-- la hollandaise1 la ,sainte ,mnhould1 la ,perigeaux1 la provenale4 ,as to salmon1 the same observation may be made4 ,it may be served la ,saint ,cloud1 la gnevoise1 la vnitienne1 la ,royale1 in filets aux anchois1 la d',artois1 la ,sainte ,mnhould1 en papillotes1 la d'uxelle2 but1 unless you have a superior cook1 salmon is best plain boiled4 ,i will conclude with the following remarks as to the time required to boil poultry4 ,turkeys1 capons1 fowls1 chickens1 c41 are all boiled in the same manner1 allowing time according to their size4 ,a chicken will take about twenty minutes4 ,a fowl1 about forty minutes4 ,a poularde or capon1 about an hour4 ,a small turkey1 an hour and a half4 ,a large turkey1 two hours or more4 ,rabbits should be put into a basin of warm water2 then put them into plenty of water1 and boil half an hour4 ,if large1 three quarters of an hour4 99 99 99 99 99 ,of frying ,i would merely say1 that the frying is the finest and most delicate when good olive oil is employed4 8,il est reconnu que c'est avec la bonne huile d'olive que se font fritures les plus fines1 les plus dlicates40--,manuel de ,cuisinier et de la ,cuisinire1 par ,p4 ,cardelli4 ,illustration ,,chapter ,,xi4 ,,poultry4 ,the term ,poultry1 includes all the domesticated birds reared for the table--fowls1 capons1 turkeys1 geese1 ducks1 and guinea fowl4 ,those who live in the country and intend to rear fowls for the consumption of their families1 should have a poultry-yard1 called by the ,french1 a basse cour4 ,it should be well sheltered1 with a warm aspect1 and sufficiently inclined to be always dry4 ,it should also be supplied with sand or ashes1 and there should be also a supply of running water1 of which poultry are fond4 ,a green patch of earth should be next to the poultry-yard1 to allow the fowls free exercise4 ,poultry are the better for high feeding from the very shell1 and on this account it is advisable to give them the heaviest corn4 ,even young chickens may be put for feeding as soon as the hen has ceased to regard them4 ,when chickens are wanted for domestic purposes1 they should be left at liberty in the farm-yard1 and if they have plenty of food they will be soon fit for the table1 and rich and juicy in flavour4 ,nowhere do you get these young and juicy chickens better than at the country inns in ,ireland and ,scotland4 ,as soon as fowls are sufficiently fat1 they should be killed1 or they will lose flesh and become unhealthy4 ,turkeys are more delicate to rear in their infancy than fowls1 but they become hardy as they grow older4 ,when well-grown1 turkeys supply themselves in their ramblings1 so that they require no food but at leaving their homes in the morning1 and returning at night4 ,after six months1 turkeys may be crammed1 as is practised with fowls2 but they require a much longer period to render them fully fat for the table4 ,guinea fowls are in the season greatly prized at ,london dinner tables4 ,the same food appropriated to the young of gallinaceous fowls and turkeys1 is good for guinea chicks4 ,the white duck being the largest of the domesticated kind1 is the best for the poulterer1 though it is not usually considered so delicate in flavour as the dark coloured4 ,the grand object of preparing poultry of all kinds as speedily as possible for the table1 is effected by supplying them with dry1 soft1 and green food1 by keeping them thoroughly clean1 and by affording them water and exercise ground4 ,of the wholesomeness of poultry1 as an article of diet1 ,lmery thus speaks in his 8,trait des ,aliments30-- 8,their flesh is pectoral1 easily digested1 produces good juice1 is very nourishing1 increases the spirits1 moistens and cools1 and is very proper for macerated persons1 that are recovering from sickness4 ,avicen pretends1 it makes the understanding more quick and lively1 and that it clears the voice4 8,it agrees at all times1 with any age and constitution3 in the meantime it is better for nice persons1 and such as lead an idle life1 than for those who are strong1 robust1 and used to a violent exercise or hard labour1 seeing these last require more solid food1 and that does not so easily waste40 8,some persons10 he goes on to say1 8formerly were of opinion1 that the eating of hens1 chickens1 and capons1 caused the gout2 and perhaps there were two things that gave occasion for this popular error4 ,first1 these animals are subject to the same disease1 and consequently may impart it to those who feed upon them2 but it would follow from hence1 that we must contract all the diseases of every animal we eat of1 which we find otherwise by experience4 ,secondly1 they were inclined to this opinion1 from a consideration that those who lead an idle life1 fare high1 and feed upon juicy and nice food1 such as chickens and capons1 are more afflicted with the gout than others2 but it is not because these people live usually upon capons and chickens1 that they are subject to this distemper1 but rather by reason of the idle life they lead1 and the excess they go to in all sorts of pleasures4 ,in short1 if it were true that the eating of these fowls brought the gout upon us1 we should see nothing else but gouty persons everywhere2 for we may say1 that there is now-a-days no food more common than poultry40 ,of capons1 this famous doctor thus speaks3-- 8,their flesh is very nourishing1 it produces good juice1 is restorative1 recovers decayed strength1 good for the phthisic and consumptions1 easy of digestion2 and they often make broth of it1 in order to fortify and recover strength4 ,the flesh of a capon is in virtue and taste much like unto that of a chicken2 in the mean time1 that of a capon is more nourishing1 pleasant and properer for people used to fatigue than the other2 and the reason is1 because this same flesh contains juices that are more concocted1 digested1 and fuller of oily balsamic particles40 ,when poultry is brought into the kitchen for use1 it should be kept as cool as possible4 ,the best position in which to place it is with the breast downwards1 on a shelf or marble slab4 ,the crop and the gut of the rump should be taken out4 ,choose fowls with a thin transparent skin1 white and delicate4 ,pigeons full fledged1 are heating and hard to digest4 ,the younger they are in general the better1 and in ,italy1 where pigeons are much used1 they are always eaten young4 ,in choosing turkeys1 select the brown ,norfolk2 but if you can find any of the red ,american breed1 the flavour is still finer4 ,i have said in another chapter that the finest fowl in the world is the poularde du ,mans1 in the department of ,la ,sarthe4 ,here is a true description of the manner in which that fine flavour which they possess is given to the bird3-- 8,it is to the feeding on barley1 and to that only1 that the fine flavour of the poularde du ,mans and of ,la ,fleche is to be traced4 ,this is one of the joys and delights of a gourmand1 and if you have a little farm1 or even a trifle of a garden1 you can fatten your own fowl4 ,with a little care and time1 you will have fowls and capons of an exquisite flavour4 ,feed them with ground barley1 mixed with bran and milk1 for some days1 and then put them in a cage in a dark1 dry spot4 ,give them as much farinaceous barley and milk as they can swallow4 ,but mind1 above and before all things1 to separate the little cocks from the hens4 ,this is indispensable1 and must be rigorously observed4 ,in a fortnight or three weeks your fowls will have acquired a fine and delicate obesity4 #8,beware1' said ,brillat de ,savarin1 #8of the turkey poults of the neighbourhood of ,paris4 ,they have a bitterness which revolts a delicate palate1 for they are fed on stale crusts1 horse-chestnuts1 and sour vegetables4'0 ,the ordinary barn-door fowl1 for which so many of us are compelled to pay #es4 #f;d4 in the month of ,may1 at the ,west-end poulterers1 is thus remorselessly treated by a ,french gourmand1 ,berchoux1 in his poem 8,la ,gastronomie10-- 8,proscrivez sans piti ces poulets domestiques1 ,nourris en votre cour et constamment tiques1 ,toujours mal engraisss par des soins ignorants2 ,ne connaissez que ceux de la ,bresse ou du ,mans40 ,a fowl or chicken should be kept some time before it is cooked4 ,if cooked immediately on being killed1 as is frequently the case at country inns in ,ireland and ,scotland1 even a young fowl is tough4 ,horace's method of rendering a fowl tender is well remembered by every ,etonian3-- 8,si vespertinus subit te oppresserit hospes1 ,ne gallina malm responset dura palato1 ,doctus eris vivam musto mersare ,falerno3 ,hoc teneram faciet40 8,poultry10 says ,m4 ,brillat ,savarin1 8is to the kitchen that which canvas is to the painter1 or ,fortunatus' wishing cap to the charlatan4 ,poultry may be served boiled1 roasted1 fried1 hot or cold1 whole or in parts1 with or without sauce1 boned or unboned1 devilled1 grilled1 or farced1 and always with equal success40 ,to my thinking1 the best fowls in ,france are those 8du ,mans10 in the department of ,la ,sarthe2 but ,m4 ,brillat ,savarin holds those of ,caux in ,normandy1 and de la ,bresse1 to be equally good4 ,the poularde of ,montalbanois en ,quercy is excellent4 ,for ages roast poultry has been a favourite dish in ,england4 ,shakespeare1 who knew every thing1 from heaven-born philosophy down to humblest household affairs1 puts into the mouth of ,justice ,shallow directions for a dinner1 which might be eaten with relish now-a-days4 8,some pigeons1 ,davy2 a couple of short-legged hens 7the true criterion of goodness71 a joint of mutton1 and any pretty1 little tiny kickshaws40 ,a capon in his day was as much relished as now1 and the cost1 according to the papers found in the pocket of ,falstaff1 was1 a capon #bs4 #b;d41 sauce #d;d41 sack1 two gallons1 #es4 #h;d41 bread1 a halfpenny4 ,our roasting of poultry1 though not so excellent as our roasting of beef and mutton1 is yet very good1 and unless a host be sure of his cook1 he had better order for his guest a roast capon1 a roast fowl1 or a roast or boiled turkey4 ,the turkey1 either roast or boiled is excellent1 and the same remark applies to fowl4 ,if served boiled1 nothing is better than good celery sauce1 either with fowl or turkey4 ,there are scores of ways of serving a poularde in ,france4 ,there is the poularde rtie1 the poularde au gros sel1 the poularde la bourgeoise1 the poularde la ,montmorency1 la ,marseillaise1 la ,tartare1 au suprme1 invented by ,beauvilliers1 and la ,grimod de la ,reynire4 ,there are also various entres of fowl and chicken1 such as poulets la reine1 la regence1 la ,montmorency1 l'ivoire2 and various fricasses1 as1 la chevalire1 la ,saint ,lambert1 la financire1 la ,bourguinonne1 la ,villeroi1 and tutti quanti2 but it is necessary to say1 that to produce these entres1 or the filets de poulet la royale1 or cotellettes de cuisses de poulets la perigueux1 or suprme de volaille1 one must have an accomplished cook4 ,the sooner we multiply schools of cookery for entres and entremets1 the better4 ,there are a couple or three existing already1 ,i believe3 one in ,mortimer ,street1 ,cavendish ,square2 one in ,charles ,street1 ,middlesex ,hospital2 and one in ,berners ,street1 ,oxford ,street4 ,but there ought to be twenty times as many4 ,nothing is so difficult to obtain as a good cook1 and yet higher wages are paid to male and female cooks than to any other class of servants4 ,there is an immense consumption of turkeys at ,paris1 at ,christmas time1 and a much larger consumption in ,london4 ,in the days of stages1 the ,norfolk coaches were stowed with turkeys from the middle of ,december to ,twelfth-day2 and in our day the goods traffic on the ,norfolk ,railway is more than trebled during ,christmas4 ,in the 8,physiologie du ,got10 of ,brillat ,savarin1 under the head 8,influence financire du ,dindon10 is the following remark3-- 8,i have some reason to think1 that from the commencement of ,november to the end of ,february1 #cjj truffled turkeys are daily consumed in ,paris1 making a total of #cf1jjj turkeys4 ,calculate the value of these40 ,the ,english have yet to learn the general use of the truffle with the turkey4 ,a rich bourgeois of ,paris will go to the expense of from #fj to #ge francs for a first-rate turkey for his rti1 and will afterwards disburse from #gj to #ajj francs in truffles to season the bird4 ,we have no idea of this expenditure in ,england1 nor do our higher and better classes use or consume truffles as they ought to be used4 ,chaptal1 who was one of ,napoleon's ,ministers of the ,interior in ,france1 published a work1 8,sur l',industrie ,franaise10 in #ahai4 ,in it he speaks of the enormous quantities of fowls in ,france3-- 8,in order to have an idea 7says the ,comte de ,chaptal7 of the enormous quantity of fowls of all species which exists in ,france1 it will suffice to observe1 that there are annually sold at the markets of ,toulouse #abj1jjj geese1 which are fattened in the neighbourhood2 and ,m4 ,lavoisier has estimated the number of eggs consumed at ,paris1 on an average of several years1 at #gh1jjj1jjj1 and the number of fowls at #ci1jjj1jjj4 ,supposing the price of each to be a franc1 including the cocks1 this would give a capital of #da1fjj1jjj francs4 ,if to this be added the value of hens and cocks1 of turkeys1 geese1 ducks1 and pigeons renewed almost every year1 the amount may be augmented by #aj1jjj1jjj2 so that the capital for fowls of all species amounts to #ea1fjj1jjj francs40 ,some exquisites and ,muscadins of the second ,empire maintain that there is nothing 8si ,chausse d',antin10 nothing 8si lourdement bourgeois0 as a dinde aux truffes1 as a plat de rt4 ,let these coxcombs rail on4 ,the dinde aux truffes1 as a ,christmas ,parisian dish1 will survive them and the false gods of their idolatry4 ,of the turkey1 ,nonius says1 8,egre gi alunt et bonum succum corpori suppeditant40#ag ,some writers1 such as ,athenus1 lian1 and ,aristotle1 would have us believe that turkeys were known to the ancients under the name of ,meleagrides1 but this is a mistake4 ,it is a nice question when turkeys first appeared in ,france1 and who first introduced them4 ,la ,mare1 in his 8,trait de la ,police10 would have it that it was ,jaques ,cur1 the treasurer of ,charles ,,vii42 but this is also an error4 ,according to ,champier1 who wrote his treatise 8,de ,re ,cibari10 in #aefj1 they were only introduced into ,france a few years before he wrote4 ,here are his words3--8,venere in ,gallias1 annos abhinc paucos1 aves qudam extern1 quas gallinas indicas appellant3 credo quoniam ex ,insulis ,indi nuper ,lusitanis ,hispanisque palefact1 primum invect fuerunt in urbem nostrum40 ,in the ,french poets of the thirteenth century1 and in authors still more ancient1 there is frequent mention of capons4 ,madame de ,sevign speaks of the 8poulardes de ,cn10 and of the 8bonnes poulardes de ,rennes40 ,in ,regnard's 8,comedy du ,bal10 ,a4,d4 #afif1 the author speaks in praise of 8les poulardes de ,caux40 ,long--nearly a century--antecedent to this1 our own ,shakespeare1 had used the word 8capon0 again and again2 and again ,le ,grand d',aussy contends that the ,gauls learned the art of fattening and cramming fowls from the ,romans4 ,crammed fowls were from early times more esteemed in ,france than any others4 ,among the officers of the ,royal household in ,france in early times1 was a crammer of fowls4 ,an ordonnance of ,st4 ,louis dated in #abfa1 more than six centuries ago1 gives to this officer the name of poulailler4 ,our neighbours on the other side of the ,straits of ,dover are not only very fond of fowls and capons1 but of much smaller birds4 ,they eat thrushes1 blackbirds1 and robin red-breasts4 ,dr4 ,roques1 in his 8,fragments sur les ,plantes usuelles10 thus speaks of this liking for smaller birds3-- 8,the taste for blackbirds and thrushes has passed from the ancients to the moderns4 ,these birds are much esteemed in ,germany1 and in our southern provinces4 ,the blackbirds of ,corsica and ,provence are renowned1 above all renowned as they feed on myrtle and juniper-berries4 ,cardinal ,fesch1 archbishop of ,lyons1 had a supply every year from ,corsica4 ,one dined at the house of his eminence partly because of his agreeable manners1 partly for the noble and gracious reception he gave you1 but1 also1 for his blackbirds1 which were of exquisite flavour4 ,more than one ,lyonnese gourmand impatiently waited for the archiepiscopal clock to strike six4 ,then it was that these delicate little birds appeared upon the table1 their delicious perfume charming all the guests4 ,their appearance1 their seductive tournure1 were also admired4 ,their backs were garnished with a small bouquet of fried sage1 in some sort imitating the tail with which they were furnished when they poured forth their notes from the elm and hawthorn4 #8,but what1' the reader will exclaim1 #8you do not speak of the fine oil in which these beautiful birds were baked1 nor of the agreeable rtis1 whose bitterness strengthened your stomach1 while it perfumed your mouth8' ,you are right1 judicious reader40 ,although the poulterers in ,london truss all the different animals which they send home1 yet1 as it often happens1 that untrussed game and poultry are sent to private families from the country1 it is necessary that the art of trussing should be known by every cook4 ,illustration ,illustration ,,chapter ,,xii4 ,,game ,,and ,,pastry4 ,game in ,england is declared to include hares1 pheasants1 partridges1 grouse1 heath or moor game1 black game1 and bustard4 ,snipe1 quail1 landrail1 woodcock1 and conies are not game2 but they can only be taken or killed by certificated persons4 ,game has been always prized amongst us at table2 and it has been a subject of legislation from the ,conquest to the present time4 ,in the time of ,queen ,mary1 there was not only a keeper of pheasants and partridges to the queen1 but likewise a taker4 ,the kings of ,england had also1 formerly1 a swanherd2 and ,sir ,e4 ,coke makes this office one of his titles in the ,fourth ,institute4#ah ,the #ag chap4 of ,henry ,,viii4 is entitled1 8,the forfeiture for taking of fesants and partridges1 or the eggs of hawkes or swans40 ,that the gentry1 even in those early days1 were imbued with sound common sense1 and could regard the pleasurable as well as the palatable and profitable side of a question1 will appear from the preamble to this statute4 ,it recites the great injury to lords of manors1 not only from the loss of the pleasure and disport to their friends and servants1 but likewise the loss to their kitchen and table4 ,so that in #adid1 ideas of gourmandise and good cheer were just as rife as in #ahfd4 ,falconry1 says the ,hon4 ,daines ,barrington1#ai first occasioned the system of game laws2 and hence1 herons were held in high esteem1 being the noblest bird the falcon could fly at4 ,there can be no doubt whatever that1 less than three centuries ago1 herons were eaten both in ,england and ,france4 ,our ancestors1 indeed1 were much less delicate and less particular as to the tenderness of their food than their descendants1 for they ate not only the heron1 but the crane1 the crow1 the cormorant1 and the bittern4 ,in an old cookery book of ,taillevant1 who was first cook of ,charles ,,vii4 of ,france1 there are receipts for dressing these last-named birds4 ,in the statutes of ,bordeaux1 made in #aehe1 with a view to regulate the sale of game1 in the regulation of ,henry ,,ii4 in #aedi1 for the same object the heron is counted among the number of birds allowed to be brought to market4 ,when ,charles ,,ix4 passed through ,amiens1 he was offered1 among other birds1 twelve herons1 six bitterns1 and six swans4 ,blon1 in his history of birds1 written in #aeed1 says1 that the bittern1 though of a nauseous taste at first1 8est cependant entre les dlices franoises20 and ,liebant calls the heron 8une viande royale40 ,hronnires were1 in his day1 as common among ,french gentlemen as were faisanderies in #agfj or #aghj4 ,three centuries ago1 vultures and falcons1 and other birds of prey1 were also eaten in ,france--now1 and for a century and a half1 so friande and dainty in its tastes4 ,in ,auvergn1 ,blon states that in winter every one ate of a kind of eagle1 named boudre1 or gorian2 though he admits owls and birds feeding on carrion were not served at table4 ,it is singular that the very people who then ate herons1 vultures1 and cormorants1 would not touch young game4 ,they regarded leverets and young partridges as indigestible1 and only partook of old hares and old birds4 ,henry ,stevens states that the eating of young game was introduced by the ,ambassador of ,france1 who had sojourned at ,venice4 ,game among our neighbours1 the ,french1 is divided into gros gibier and menu gibier4 ,in the gros gibier is comprised the buck1 doe1 stag1 wild boar1 c42 and the menu gibier comprehends pheasant1 wild duck1 teal1 larks1 ring-doves1 partridges1 woodcocks1 quails1 ortolans1 thrushes1 grouse1 red-breasts1 lapwings1 c4 ,french writers also speak of le gibier poil1 in which are comprised hares1 leverets1 and rabbits4 ,it will be at once seen that the ,french consider as game many small birds on which we set little value4 ,in the excellence and succulence of our game1 and the number of our game preserves1 we beat the world4 ,the only countries that can be compared to ,england in the excellence and abundance of game are ,hungary1 ,styria1 ,carinthia1 and parts of the ,basque provinces1 ,gallicia1 and ,spanish and ,portuguese ,estremadura4 ,southey1 who visited ,spain in #agig1 speaks thus in his letters of having a woodcock for supper at ,merida3--8,at ,merida we had a woodcock for supper1 which we trussed ourselves2 but the old woman of the house brought up the bird sprawling1 told us that they had forgot to cut off the rump and draw it1 and then poked her finger in to show how clean the inside was40 ,nearly thirty years after this date ,i can myself bear testimony to the abundance of game in parts of ,spain1 and to the excellent manner in which a salmi of partridges is occasionally served in the ,peninsula4 ,it is one of the few dishes in ,spanish cookery which an ,englishman can relish4 ,game is a light food1 and easy of digestion2 and there is no country in the world in which it is plainly roasted so well as in ,england4 ,but in sauts1 filets1 or cutlets of game1 in salmis of game aux truffes1 la rocambole1 in crepinettes1 or la provenale1 we are not to be spoken of in the same century with the ,french4 ,there are even tolerably simple ways of dressing game la franaise1 in which some of our ,french cooks are no adepts4 ,i will not speak of perdreau aux choux1 for ,i deem it profanation to serve cabbage with so admirable a bird2 but you cannot always trust a good ,english cook to serve a partridge or a quail la financire4 ,our game pies1 more especially in country houses1 are good1 but they are not to be compared to the pt de bcassines aux truffes1 or the pts des cailles aux fines herbes1 or to the pt de godiveau aux champignons1 or aux truffes4 ,the chvreuil ,france is very inferior to our venison1 and it is only the sauce poivrade1 the truffles1 or the filet l'italienne1 or la ,marechale that makes it eatable4 ,it may be asked why we cannot have these dishes in ,england8 ,there is no reason why we should not have them1 if schools of ,french cookery are multiplied1 and families will go to the expense of the ,madeira and ,malaga wines1 the truffles1 the morels1 the button mushrooms1 and the bunches of sweet herbs4 ,these things are expensive in ,london2 and there are few so prone to obey the vulgar appetite of the belly--to use a phrase of the ,roman historian1 ,sallust--that the outlay is not incurred4 ,our peers1 our country gentlemen1 as well as our wealthy merchants1 are quite content to have their game well-roasted1 which means not overdone4 ,it is one of the old canons of cookery to spit the game when the first course is removed3 8,quand le premier service est fini il faut mettre le gibier la broche40 ,i cannot choose but think1 however1 that we may easily vary our roast hare and boiled rabbit by fillets and cutlets of both1 by civets of hare1 and by salmis and scollops of pheasant la ,bourguinotte1 and la ,richelieu1 or fillets of partridge la ,perigird1 or la ,lucullus4 ,pheasant is often a dry bird in ,england1 and oftener so in ,france2 but ,i would not order a woodcock en salmi1 unless the bird were of venerable age4 ,nonius1 who wrote about #bdj years ago1 tells us there are two sorts of pheasants in ,france2 one is called ,royal and the other is called bruyant4 ,here are his words3--8,galli duplex phasianorum genus statunt1 ,regium unum quod prestantius est de quo jam diximus1 alterum quod ,bruyant vocant40#bj ,but in this the learned writer is probably mistaken1 and confounds bruyant with ,coq de bruyre4 ,grimod de la ,reynire says3--8,a pheasant should be suspended by the tail1 and eaten when he detaches himself from this incumbrance4 ,it is thus that a pheasant hung on ,shrove ,tuesday is susceptible of being spitted on ,easter-day40 99 99 99 99 99 ,i have not said anything on pastry or cold entres1 because the pastry-cook and the cook constitute1 in ,france and in most continental countries1 two different trades or employments4 ,in ,england1 however1 the cook and the pastry-cook are often1 in considerable establishments1 amalgamated2 so that the perfect or professed cook should be conversant with every branch of his or her profession1 as few establishments1 even of the highest in rank or the most wealthy1 include a cook and a confectioner1 or pastry-cook4 ,those1 therefore1 who1 in this country1 are anxious to excel in their art1 ought to be acquainted with the various preparations of pastry1 by which ,i mean not merely tarts1 puddings1 but feuilletage1 or puff-paste1 and paste for hot and cold pies1 paste for timbals1 half-puff paste1 and paste for heavy cakes1 c4 ,from ,carme's observations on making paste1 one may conceive that1 to his thinking1 the operation was difficult4 8,the soul of the operation10 says he1 8consists in having the paste well mingled2 for1 should there be any neglect in the preparation1 a bad result only can be obtained3 also1 if the pastry1 when baked1 possesses a colour the least objectionable to the eye of the connoisseur1 it will be no less disagreeable to the palate1 being heavy and indigestible2 therefore the manipulation should be perfect1 both in the oven and on the table4 ,it is easier to bake than to make it4 ,the oven claims1 it is true1 care1 assiduity1 and practice2 but the composition permits not mediocrity--requiring memory1 taste and skill--for1 from its perfect seasonings1 and the due amalgamation of the different bodies of which it is composed1 it receives its good or bad qualities4 ,the oven is one simple and self-same thing--the compositions are varied to infinity40 ,in most moderate establishments1 where a regular dinner is given1 the ordinary cook1 with the aid of a first-rate man cook1 has quite enough to do in preparing the soup1 fish1 meats1 fowl1 and game1 without being embarrassed with patties and pastry4 ,i would therefore suggest that in establishments where there are not first-rate assistants1 and a sufficient number of them1 patties1 and all kinds of pastry1 jellies1 ices1 c41 should be procured from the confectioner4 ,there are many first-rate confectioners who undertake this duty1 such as ,gunter1 ,grange1 ,bridgman1 ,waud1 and others4 ,a great deal of trouble will thus be saved to the host2 and unless his kitchen and his servants be all of a superior description1 it is likely the small patties1 pastry1 ices1 and confectionary1 will be better from the confectioner's than if prepared at home4 ,of course1 every professed cook ought to know how to make pts of venison and of all sorts of game and fish2 but with what the ,french call ptisserie it is different1 and entertainers who wish these articles will do well to order them from a confectioner4 ,for small family dinners every good cook should know how to make apricot puffs1 orange or rum jelly1 blanc-manger1 tourtes1 apple tarts1 souffls1 iced puddings1 gauffres1 nougats1 merlitons1 ,charlottes la ,russe1 gooseberry and all tartlets2 but this is a widely different thing from undertaking this duty for a dinner of fourteen1 sixteen1 or twenty persons1 in addition to the two or three courses4 ,for my own part1 ,i have remarked that the people most in the habit of dining out eat very sparingly of pts and pastry4 ,under the head ptisseries1 the ,french in general comprehend1 first1 les pts chauds et tourtes d'entres4 ,secondly1 les pts froids1 les gateaux1 les ptisseries sucres4 ,thirdly1 les ptisseries seches ou croquantes1 eaten at dessert4 ,in early ages1 in ,france1 the cabaretiers1 who furnished food to the traveller1 furnished also pastry4 ,saint ,louis1 in #abgj1 regulated this trade by certain statutes2 but there was not a regular company of ptissiers till #aefg4 ,one hundred and fifty years ago ,pithiviers was celebrated for its pts of larks2 ,perigueux1 for its pts of truffled partridges2 ,amiens1 for its turkeys and geese2 ,angers1 for its poulardes2 ,versailles1 for its foies gras1 and ,strasbourg and ,toulouse1 for its pts of foies d'oies4 ,it was not till #aghj that a ptissier of ,paris invented pts de jambon4 ,when l',hpital was ,chancellor of ,france1 he forbade the sale of petits pts in ,paris1 on the ground1 8qu'un pareil commerce favorisait d'un ct la gourmandise et de l'autre la paresse40 ,illustration ,,chapter ,,xiii4 ,,cheese ,,and ,,salads4 ,there is a great deal of difference in cheese4 ,much depends on the preparation and seasoning1 much on its being new or old1 much on its taste and smell4 ,that is the best cheese which is neither too old nor too new1 which is called fat1 and is salted enough1 and which is of middling consistence1 has been made of good milk1 and is of good taste and smell4 ,cheese is nourishing enough1 and helps digestion if you take but a little of it1 according to the ,latin line-- 8,caseus ille bonus quem dat avara manus40 ,the flavour and goodness of cheese depends in a considerable degree on the nature of the pasture on which the cows are fed2 yet the mode in which the different stages of the lubrication of the curd is managed1 is also to be taken into consideration4 ,hence the superiority of the cheeses of particular districts over others1 without any apparent difference in the pasture4 ,soft and rich cheeses are the best for the epicure's dinner1 and are not intended to be kept long4 ,hard and dry cheeses will not be relished by men of taste1 or offered by hosts who care for the comfort and health of their guests4 ,of the rich cheeses almost all are cream cheeses2 and those soft cheeses called ,bath and ,yorkshire cheeses1 sold as soon as made3 but these if kept too long become soft and putrid4 ,stilton and ,gruyre cheeses are intermediate between the soft and hard4 ,the ,gruyre and ,parmesan cheeses differ only in the nature of the milk1 and in the degree of heat given to the curd in different parts of the process4 ,gruyre cheese is entirely made from new milk1 and ,parmesan from skimmed milk4 ,in the first nothing is added to give flavour2 in the latter1 saffron gives both colour and flavour4 ,the best ,english cheeses are the ,stilton1 ,cheshire1 double ,gloucester1 and ,cheddar2 and ,stilton and ,cheshire are greatly prized in ,paris4 ,for the last thirty years or more it has appeared to me that finer ,stilton and ,cheshire cheeses are to be had in the restaurants of ,paris than in ,london4 ,the ,stilton and ,cheshire cheeses at ,chevets1 ,corcellets1 and other magazins de comestibles in ,paris1 are larger than those generally seen in ,london1 and ,i dare say a better price is paid for them by the ,french than by the ,english dealers1 for gourmands in ,paris will give larger prices for table luxuries than people ejusdem farin in ,london4 ,it may be also that our ,english cheeses1 like our ,english and ,irish porter1 is improved by the voyage1 though if this were so1 there is no reason why one should not eat better cheese in ,dublin than in ,london1 which one never does4 ,my idea is that the super-excellence of the ,stilton in ,paris arises from the fact that it is improved or doctored 7to use a trade phrase7 by a perfect connoisseur in the art of improving comestibles4 ,cellarmen in ,france1 when a cheese has become very dry1 wash it several times in soft water1 and then lay it in a cloth moistened with wine or vinegar till it becomes soft and mellow1 which it will inevitably become if it be a rich cheese4 ,stilton cheese is made by adding the cream of the preceding evening's milk to the morning's milking4 ,to eat a ,stilton cheese in perfection1 you must not only have one made of rich milk1 but manage it well after it is so made4 ,epicures prefer a ,stilton cheese with a green mould4 ,to accelerate the growth of this mould1 pieces of mouldy or over-ripe cheese are inserted into holes made for the purpose by a scoop or instrument called a taster4 ,wine or ale is then poured in4 ,but the best ,stiltons do not require this1 for they are in perfection when the inside is soft and rich1 like butter1 without any appearance of mouldiness4 ,cheeses are frequently coloured to make them look rich2 the substance most commonly used for this purpose is arnotto1 or the juice of the orange1 carrot1 and marygold flowers4 ,the best cheeses in ,france are those of ,neufchtel in ,normandy1 of ,brie1 which is much eaten in ,paris1 and above all1 the fromage de ,roquefort en ,rouergue1 now called ,aveyron4 ,to my taste this is the best of all dry cheeses2 it has some analogy with ,stilton1 but is much finer4 ,roquefort cheese is manufactured in the village whose name it bears4 ,some portion of the excellence of this cheese is due to the cellars in which the straining or refining of the cheese takes place1 and some portion to the peculiar manner in which the animals are milked2 a process which is explained by ,m4 ,giron de ,bazareinques4 ,roquefort cheese is made of a mixture of sheep and goat's milk2 the first communicates consistence and quality1 the latter whiteness and a peculiar flavour4 ,roquefort cheese may be had in perfection at ,corcellets' ,palais ,royal1 and at ,morel's in ,piccadilly4 ,gruyre cheese is made in the canton of ,friburg1 in ,switzerland1 and in the provinces of ,franche-,comt1 ,bresse1 and ,bugey4 ,there is a cheese made in the ,mont d',or1 in ,auvergne1 which has a high flavour4 ,at large dinners in ,london1 cheese is oftenest eaten in the form of ramequins1 or grated ,parmesan1 and other preparations2 but at small dinners the ,stilton1 the ,roquefort1 the ,chester1 the double ,gloucester1 or the ,somersetshire cheese is invariably produced4 ,for nearly a thousand years the art of mixing herbs and cheese together has been known in ,england and ,france4 ,in ,france this operation is called persiller1 because a good deal of parsley is mixed with the cheese1 as here we mix a good deal of sage4 ,cheese is always produced at the end of a repast4 ,in any other fashion the ,italian proverb makes light of it3-- 8,fromagio1 peri1 e pan ,pasto de vilan40 ,according to ,la ,bruyre ,champier1 who1 when attached to the household of ,francis ,i4 in a medical capacity in #aefj1 wrote his treatise 8,de ,re ,cibari10 cheese was the principal production1 and the principal aliment of the ,auvergnats4 ,in the earliest times in ,france1 several of the provinces made good cheeses4 ,pliny states that those of ,nimes were much sought for in his time at ,rome1 as well as those of ,mont ,losere and the neighbourhood3 but these cheeses would not keep1 and were eaten fresh4 ,martial makes mention of the cheese of ,toulouse4 ,italian cheeses were not introduced into ,france till the time of ,charles ,,viii4 ,when this monarch on his expedition to ,naples passed through ,placentia1 or ,placenza1 as it is more commonly called1 the citizens presented him with several cheeses4 ,but he was so astonished at the size of them 78aussi grand10 says ,monstrelet1 8quasi comme la largeur de meules moulin07 that out of curiosity he sent one to the queen and to the ,duke of ,bourbon1 who were then sojourning in ,bourbonnais4 ,it was found excellent1 and henceforth came into general use4 ,de ,serres1 who wrote in #afjj1 gave the first rank among foreign cheeses to ,parmesan1 and the second to ,turkey cheeses1 which arrived in ,france in bladders4 ,gontier1 in his treatise 8,de ,sanitate tuend10 written in #afhh1 mentions among excellent cheeses that of ,gruyre4 ,ninety or a hundred years ago1 the taste as to cheese changed in ,paris1 and not long antecedent to the ,french ,revolution of #aghi1 cheese was thought fit food only for ,germans1 ,english1 or ,italians4 ,the popular proverb then was-- 8,jamais homme sage1 ,ne mangea fromage40 ,but1 nevertheless1 any one who examines cookery books of the time of ,louis ,,xv4 and ,louis ,,xvi41 will find that cheese was used in an infinity of ragouts1 and that toasted cheese was placed in a liquid state on toast1 with cinnamon1 sugar1 and aromatic spices4 ,this was evidently an improvement on the old ,welsh-rabbit1 or rare-bit1 which was so seldom well done1 even at the ,wrekin in ,russell ,court1 ,covent ,garden1 a house frequented by ,edmund ,kean in my younger days4 ,dr4 ,king1 in his 8,art of ,cookery10 thus speaks of toasted cheese3-- 8,happy the man that has each fortune tried1 ,to whom she much has given and much denied2 ,with abstinence all delicate he sees1 ,and can regale himself on toasted cheese40 ,of caseous substances1 ,nonius says3--8,magna est differentia inter recentem et vetustum caseum4 ,recens enim et mollis1 duratis et veteribus salubritatis caussa preferendus4 ,teste enim ,dioscoride1 magis alit1 stomacho utilis1 corpus auget1 et facillime digeritur4 ,minus vero nutrit si sale aspersus fuerit et stomacho inutilis4 ,vetustos caseos ,galenus damnat40#ba ,i have not said anything of the ,schabzeiger cheese of ,switzerland1 or the ,strachino of ,milan1 as there are few ,english people who relish anything so rank4 ,roquefort is a much finer cheese than either of them1 but the consumption of ,roquefort in ,england is singularly small4 ,illustration ,illustration ,,chapter ,,xiv4 ,,on ,,salad4 ,in #affd1 if my memory serves me rightly1 ,john ,evelyn wrote a treatise 8,on ,salets10 in a small volume1 which ,i possess in my library2 but ,i cannot1 at this moment1 lay my hand on the little book4 ,though curious in a certain sense1 the treatise would be found more useful for the horticulturist than for the cook4 ,salads are now1 as in ,evelyn's day1 composed of certain pot-herbs1 to which are added various aromatical odoriferous herbs1 or fournitures 7that is the term of art in ,french cookery71 which greatly add to the zest of the mixture4 ,there are about twelve of these herbes de fourniture1 as they are called1 namely1 garden-cress1 water-cress1 chervil1 chives1 scallions or green onions1 tarragon1 pimpernel or burnet1 parsley pert1 hartshorn1 sweet basil1 purslain1 fennel1 and young balsam4 ,cresses are wholesome and anti-scorbutic1 chervil is a purifier1 chives a stimulant1 tarragon stomachic and corroborant1 while parsley is carminative1 and the remaining herbs are all pronounced by ,lmery in his 8,trait des ,aliments10 to have medicinal virtues4 ,salads1 of course1 vary according to the season4 ,chicore or endive1 is in season at the end of autumn1 and it is not usual to add any herbe de fourniture to that salad4 ,some1 in ,france1 place at the bottom of the salad-basin containing an endive salad1 a small crust of stale bread rubbed over with garlic1 which gives a slight flavour to the dish4 ,later in the season1 another species of chicore1 called scarole1 is had recourse to4 ,it is not so tender as chicory or succory1 but has as much flavour1 and is quite as wholesome4 ,chicory or succory is1 according to ,lmery1 of a moistening and cooling nature1 and creates an appetite4 ,winter salads are generally composed of mche or corn salad1 rampions 7which1 according to ,lmery1 8fortify the stomach1 help digestion1 are detersive1 and agree with every age and constitution071 and chopped celery4 ,sometimes1 also1 in winter1 a salad is made exclusively of chopped celery1 seasoned with oil and mustard4 ,garden or water-cress is also a winter salad4 ,it is good to mix it with slices of beetroot2 and in ,france1 more especially in ,provence1 olives are often added4 ,towards ,february1 the salad most in vogue is an endive called barbe de ,capucin1 or ,capucin's beard4 ,it is seasoned like the white succory4 ,the lettuce1 known in ,england for more than three centuries1 generally appears about the commencement of ,lent1 but the better sort of lettuce does not make its appearance before ,easter4 ,it is the most popular of all salads1 and possesses soothing properties4 ,herbes de fourniture are added to it1 with which anchovies and chopped chives are mixed4 ,sometimes1 to vary the dish1 prawns and shrimps are likewise thrown in4 ,next comes the ,roman lettuce1 less watery1 and with much fuller and finer flavour than the preceding1 especially when the leaves are streaked4 ,the ,roman lettuce is sometimes served with odoriferous herbs1 but hard eggs are rarely added to the seasoning4 ,roman lettuce is in season from ,may to the end of ,autumn4 ,besides these1 there are hotch-potch salads1 made en ,macedoine1 with a variety of roots and vegetables1 such as ,french beans1 haricots blancs1 lentils1 small onions1 beetroot1 saxifrage1 or goat's beard 7called in ,french1 salsifis71 potatoes1 carrots1 artichoke-bottoms1 asparagus-tops1 gherkins1 sliced anchovies1 soused tunny1 olives1 truffles1 c4 ,there are salads also of meat1 fish1 and game4 ,a salade l'italienne is composed of cold fowl cut up in pieces1 and served with anchovies and dressed salad4 ,sometimes this salad is made with a cold partridge2 and very relishing it is4 ,i insert here ,carme's receipt for a salade de poulets la ,reine4 ,it will be seen that1 like all his receipts1 it would be somewhat costly3--8,dress in a pole1 or roast four fine chickens1 and when cold cut them in pieces1 as for a fricasse2 lay the pieces in a basin1 with salt1 pepper1 oil1 vinegar1 whole parsley washed1 a small onion sliced1 or a shalot1 and cover with a round piece of paper2 leave them in this seasoning for some hours2 boil eight eggs of the same size hard1 and take off the shells2 wash six fine lettuces2 half an hour before serving1 drain the fowl upon a napkin1 separating the small pieces of parsley and onions1 take the leaves from the lettuces1 preserving the hearts very small1 cut the leaves small1 season them as a salad usually is1 and turn them into the dish2 lay upon them in a circle the eight thighs of the fowls1 in the centre put the wings1 upon the top of the thighs lay the rumps and two of the breasts only1 surmount these with the fillets1 laying one the smooth side upwards1 and the next the contrary way1 or upside down 7as four are taken from the left1 and four from the right side71 on these lay the two other breasts2 be careful to keep this entre very neat and very upright2 make a border of eggs cut in eight pieces1 and between each quarter place upright small hearts of lettuces1 each heart cut in four or even six pieces2 place half an egg1 in which fix upright a heart of lettuce1 and place it on the summit of the salad2 then mix in a basin a good pinch of chervil and some tarragon leaves1 both being chopped and blanched1 with salt1 pepper1 oil1 ravigote vinegar1 and a spoonful of aspic jelly1 chopped small2 the whole well mingled1 pour it over the salad and serve immediately40 ,the vinegar used in salads should always be wine vinegar1 not pyroligneous acid4 ,chaptal1 the great chymist1 and afterwards ,minister of the ,interior1 in ,france1 has given a receipt for dressing salad4 ,he directs that the salad should be saturated with oil1 and seasoned with salt and pepper1 before the vinegar is added4 ,it results from this process that there never can be too much vinegar1 for1 from the specific gravity of the vinegar compared with oil1 what is more than needful will fall to the bottom of the salad bowl4 ,the salt should not be dissolved in the vinegar1 but in the oil1 by which means it is more equally distributed through the salad4 ,there are also salads of lemons1 oranges1 pomegranates1 pears1 apples1 c42 but these will be more properly spoken of under the head ,dessert4 ,the following receipt for a winter salad is from the pen of one of the wittiest men1 and one of the purest writers of ,england of this generation1 the late ,sydney ,smith3-- 8,two large potatos1 passed through kitchen sieve1 ,unwonted softness to the salad give4 ,of mordent mustard add a single spoon2 ,distrust the condiment which bites so soon2 ,but deem it not1 thou man of herbs1 a fault ,to add a double quantity of salt4 ,three times the spoon with oil of ,lucca crown1 ,and once with vinegar procured from town4 ,true flavour needs it1 and your poet begs1 ,the pounded yellow of two well-boiled eggs4 ,let onion atoms lurk within the bowl1 ,and1 scarce suspected1 animate the whole2 ,and lastly1 on the flavoured compound toss ,a magic teaspoon of anchovy sauce4 ,then1 though green turtle fail1 though venison's tough1 ,and ham and turkey are not boiled enough1 ,serenely full the ,epicure may say1-- ,fate cannot harm me--,i have dined to-day60 ,the ,spanish proverb says1 that to make a perfect salad1 there should be a miser for oil1 a spendthrift for vinegar1 a wise man for salt1 and a madcap to stir the ingredients up and mix them well together4 ,the proverb is perfect with the exception of the last member of the sentence4 ,a patient and discreet man1 a painstaking and careful man or woman should be entrusted with the duty of mixing the salad with its seasoning4 ,the ,french say1 8,il faut bien fatiguer la salade40 ,it is said by a dramatic writer1 8,toute franaise ce que j'imagine1 ,sait bien ou mal faire un peu de cuisine20 and the same may be said of every ,frenchman4 ,some of the emigrants1 who fled to ,england and other countries between #agij and #ahjd1 gained their livelihood by giving lessons in cookery2 and ,brillat ,savarin tells us1 in one of his chapters1 that when in emigration at ,boston1 in ,america1 he taught the restaurateur ,julien to make ufs brouilles au fromage4 ,captain ,collet1 also1 he tells1 made a great deal of money at ,new ,york in #agid and #agie1 in making ices and sorbets4 ,in my earlier days there were two ,frenchmen in ,london who made good incomes by dressing salads1 and each of them kept his cabriolet4 ,one took as a fee #ajs4 #f;d41 but the other charged a guinea4 ,in an article1 headed 8,industrie gastronomique des ,emigrs10 ,brillat ,savarin thus speaks of a famous salad-dresser3-- 8,in passing through ,cologne ,i met a ,breton gentleman who made a good thing of it by becoming a traiteur4 ,i might multiply examples of this kind to an indefinite extent1 but ,i prefer relating1 as more singular1 the history of a ,frenchman who acquired a fortune in ,london by his cleverness in making a salad4 ,he was a ,limousin1 and1 if my memory serve me rightly1 called himself d',aubignac1 or d',albignac4 ,though his means were very small subsequent to his emigration1 he happened to dine one day at one of the most famous taverns of ,london4 ,whilst he was in the act of finishing a slice of juicy roast beef1 five or six young men of the first families were regaling themselves at a neighbouring table4 ,one among them stood up1 and1 addressing the ,frenchman in a polite tone1 said1 #8,sir1 it is a general opinion that your nation excels in the art of making a salad1 would you have the goodness to favour us by mixing one for us8' ,d',albignac1 after some hesitation1 consented1 asked for the necessary materials1 and having taken pains to mix a perfect salad1 had the good fortune to succeed4 ,while the salad was in process of mixing1 he candidly answered all questions addressed to him on his situation and prospects2 stated he was an emigrant1 and confessed1 not without a slight blush1 that he received pecuniary aid from the ,british government4 ,it was this avowal1 doubtless1 which induced one of the young men to slip into his hand a five-pound note1 which1 after a slight resistance1 he accepted4 ,he gave the young man his address1 and some time afterwards was not a little surprised to receive a letter1 in which he was asked in the politest terms to come and dress a salad in one of the best houses in ,grosvenor ,square4 ,d',albignac1 who began to have a distant glimmering of durable advantage1 did not hesitate an instant1 and arrived punctually1 fortified with some new ingredients destined to add new relish to his mixture4 ,he had the good fortune to succeed a second time1 and received on this occasion such a sum as he could not have refused without injuring himself in more ways than one4 8,this second success made more noise than the first1 so that the reputation of the emigrant quickly extended4 ,he soon became known as the fashionable salad-maker2 and in a country so much led by fashion1 all that was elegant in the capital of the three kingdoms would have a salad made by him4 ,d',albignac1 like a man of sense1 profited by his popularity4 ,he soon sported a vehicle1 in order the more readily to transport him from place to place1 together with a livery servant carrying in a mahogany case everything necessary1 such as differently perfumed vinegars1 oils with or without the taste of fruit1 soy1 caviare1 truffles1 anchovies1 ketchup gravy1 some yolks of eggs4 ,subsequently he caused similar cases to be manufactured1 which he furnished and sold by hundreds4 ,by degrees the salad-dresser realised a fortune of #hj1jjj francs1 with which he ultimately returned to ,france40 ,three centuries ago1 we learn from ,champier1 who wrote in #aefj1 that many materials were used for salads which are not thought of now2 among others1 fennel1 marshmallow-tops1 hops1 wild marjoram1 elder-flowers1 and a species of nettle4 ,tomatas and asparagus were also at this period used as salads4 ,in a 8,mmoire pour faire un ,ecriteau pour un ,banquet10 published in the sixteenth century1 ,i find in the list of salads the following3-- #a4 ,salade blanche4 #b4 ,salade verte4 #c4 ,salade de citron4 #d4 ,salade d'entremets4 #e4 ,salade de grenade4 #f4 ,salade de ,houblon4 #g4 ,salade de laitues4 #h4 ,salade d'olives4 #i4 ,salade de perce-pierre4 #aj4 ,salade de poires de bon crtien4 #aa4 ,salade de pourpier confit4 ,we know better in our day than to make a salad of asparagus4 ,dr4 ,roques thus speaks of asparagus in his 8,observations sur les ,plantes usuelles03--8,the asparagus grows naturally in the woods1 in the hedges1 in the sea-sand1 and on the banks of rivers4 ,the ancients knew and cultivated asparagus4 ,athenus speaks of field and mountain asparagus2 he says the best are those which grow naturally1 without being sown4 ,martial1 ,pliny1 and ,juvenal also speak of asparagus4 ,the ,romans especially esteemed those of ,ravenna4 ,nature1 says ,pliny1 wished that asparagus should grow wild so that they might be gathered every where by everyone2 but being improved by cultivation1 the blades astonish by their thickness4 ,they are sold at ,ravenna at three to the pound40 ,in ,covent ,garden ,market1 in the season1 it is very common to find asparagus so fat that six weigh a pound4 ,why is ,dr4 ,roques so silent as to the velocity with which this vegetable may be cooked8 ,quicker than asparagus is boiled1 became a proverb among the ,romans4#bb ,juvenal mentions a large lobster surrounded with asparagus1 and promises1 in the eleventh satire to his friend ,perseus1 a plate of mountain asparagus1 which had been freshly gathered by his farmer's wife4 8,montani ,asparagi1 posito quos legit villica fuso40 ,i remember having read somewhere of a gentleman travelling near the town of ,arras 7where ,robespierre was born71 and meeting a countryman who insisted on supping with him4 ,entering an inn1 the gentleman asked for an omelette and some asparagus4 ,after having helped the rustic to his half-share of the omelette1 the stupid lout asked what were the asparagus4 8,oh60 replied the host1 8they are a very fine vegetable1 and you shall have half of the bunch1 as you have had half of the omelette40 ,thereupon the intelligent gourmand transferred to his neighbour's plate the ends1 or as the late ,mr4 ,justice ,creswell quaintly1 yet forcibly used to say it1 the handle of the esculent1 who thought these quisquili tougher to chew than the stalky part of the cabbage4 ,the ,marquis de ,cussy tells us that no less a personage than ,napoleon ate the haricots de soissons1 or kidney-beans with oil1 as a salad4 ,illustration ,illustration ,,chapter ,,xv4 ,,the ,,dessert4 ,the ,dessert1 if by that word be understood the agreeable mingling together of cakes1 of fruits1 and sweetmeats1 is an ,italian invention4 ,it was cradled in the sweet south1 and is the offspring of beautiful gardens1 and flourishing cities and towns1 clustering with grapes and peaches4 ,carme used to say that the dessert had been elevated into a science with a view to retain girls1 young women1 and children at table1 in friendly family converse4 ,in such sort it deliciously prolongs the repast4 ,a dessert should above all things be simple2 considered as a third or fourth course1 it is often a dangerous superfluity1 and the fruitful cause of many an indigestion4 ,there are some who eat of it solely and simply because it appears promotive of a light1 agreeable1 and sparkling conversation4 ,but these worthy1 good-natured people often deceive themselves4 ,it is a rock1 says ,carme1 at the end of a dinner1 a serious embarrassment for the liver1 which it too often harasses and obstructs4 ,lachappelle 7port-queue of ,louis ,,xiii41 and his major domo7 goes further1 and mentions that all persons who make a point of eating dessert after a good dinner are fools1 who spoil at once their wit and their stomachs4 8,reject1 therefore1 once for all10 says another ,french author1 8the ,macedoines glaces fruits rouge1 the white cheeses la ,bavaroise1 the petits pains la duchesse1 the fanchonnettes de volaille1 the vol-au-vent la violette4 ,experienced diners out never touch these things1 not even at the end of a second course4 ,when we speak of experienced and clever people1 who know what they are about1 we would speak of those gourmands so gifted1 and so superior in all the affairs and business of life1 such as ,lorenzo de ,medicis1 ,leo ,x41 ,raphael1 ,prince ,talleyrand1 ,george ,,iv41 the ,emperor ,alexander1 ,castlereagh1 and ,pitt himself40 ,m4 ,f4 ,fayot1 who writes biographies of ,canning1 and political articles in the ,french newspapers1 ought to have known that ,pitt did not care for such knick-knackeries as ,pistachio nuts1 and crme la vanille4 ,though the dessert was originally invented in ,italy1 yet the usage was early transplanted into ,france4 ,in the works of ,st4 ,gelais ,i find some lines1 in which he sends fresh cherries to a lady on the first of ,may4 ,how this fruit could be thus early produced1 without the aid of hot-houses1 is difficult to imagine4 ,from ,champier1 however1 who wrote about #aefj1 we learn that the ,poitevins sent yearly forced cherries in post to ,paris4 ,the fruit was prematurely ripened by putting lime at the root of the tree1 or watering the roots with warm water4 ,la ,quintini1 the head gardener of ,louis ,,xiv41 boasts that he served strawberries for the dessert of his royal master at the end of ,march1 green peas in ,april1 and figs in ,june4 ,it was in #afid that preserved pine-apples1 shipped from the ,french ,west ,india islands of ,st4 ,domingo and ,gaudaloupe1 were first seen at dessert in ,paris4 ,the tree had been originally transplanted from ,asia to the ,west ,indies1 where the heat of the climate preserved it from degenerating4 8,although the fruit of the pine be fibrous10 says ,father ,dutertre1 8it melts into water in the mouth1 and is so well flavoured1 that you find the taste of the peach1 of the apple1 of the quince1 and of the muscatel1 blended together40 ,it is plain to perceive that ,father ,dutertre was friand1 and that he possessed1 in matters of the table at least1 the science of analysis4 ,the 8pine10 says ,dr4 ,roques1 8is impregnated with a corrosive juice1 which may be extracted by steeping the root for one or two hours in sugared brandy40 ,lovers of pine cut it up in slices1 cover it with sugar1 and bathe it copiously over with sherry wine4 ,jellies1 ices1 and creams1 are also made of this fruit2 and the ,italians prepare with it a liqueur which is called manaja1 and which is really delicious4 ,dates1 so well known and so esteemed in ancient times1 are oftener served at dessert in ,spain1 ,italy1 and the south of ,france1 than in ,england4 ,theophrastus1 ,plutarch1 and ,pliny speak in rather extravagant terms of the date-tree1 and the excellence of its fruit4 ,nicholas of ,damascus1 in ,syria1 one of the most distinguished members of the ,peripatetic school1 sent to the ,emperor ,augustus the famous dates that grow in the valley of ,jericho4 ,pliny says they are so thick1 that four ranged together would be the length of a cubit4 ,this fruit is gathered in the autumn1 and dried in the sun4 ,the ,tunisian dates are the best2 they are pulpy1 mucilaginous1 saccharine1 and nutritious4 ,the expressed juice of the date yields a syrup1 which serves as a substitute for butter1 and is used as a seasoning4 ,lmery says that those who feed on dates are generally afflicted with the scurvy and lose their teeth4 ,they have been generally considered a dry and stringent fruit4 ,though an incentive to wine1 they are indigestible1 and in ,spain have generally a harsh1 rough1 and unpleasant taste4 ,there is not a more grateful or a less noxious fruit at dessert than oranges4 ,louis ,,xiv4 was particularly fond both of the tree and the fruit4 ,when the monarch gave those magnificent ftes1 so vaunted both in prose and verse1 the porticoes1 halls1 and ante-chambers of his palaces were decorated with orange-trees1 and the fruit1 then esteemed rare1 always appeared at dessert4 ,the ,maltese oranges were1 at that period1 considered the finest2 while the fruit of ,portugal maintained a secondary rank only4 ,but even ,portuguese oranges were deemed a present worthy of being offered to the children of kings4 8,monsieur me vint0 7says the ,duchess of ,montpensier in her ,memoirs72 8il me donna des oranges de ,portugal40 ,molire1 in giving a description of the comedy which formed a portion of the famous ftes given at ,versailles in #afhh by ,louis ,,xiv41 remarks that there was first laid a magnificent collation of ,portuguese oranges1 and of all sorts of fruits1 in thirty-six baskets4 ,about this period a species of sweet citron was much in vogue4 ,it is mentioned by ,lmery in his treatise on foods1 written about #agje1 who says 8that the ladies of the court carried about sweet citrons in their hands1 which they bit from time to time to produce red lips40 ,more than #bgj years ago figs were common at dessert in ,france4 ,there were then but four species of this delicious fruit2 the red1 the purple1 the white1 and the black4 ,the two latter were the most common1 but the black were considered in ,provence the most wholesome1 as well as the most agreeable4 ,the figs of ,marseilles1 had then1 as indeed they have now1 great repute1 and were renowned all over the country4 ,nor were those of ,montpelier1 ,nismes1 and ,st4 ,andol1 without their admirers1 though inferior to the figs of ,marseilles4 ,there have been few fig-trees in the neighbourhood of ,paris for some centuries1 though in the time of the ,emperor ,julian the figs of ,paris were already celebrated4 ,the famous gardener and horticulturist ,la ,quintini1 to please his master1 ,louis ,,xiv41 who was particularly fond of figs1 adopted the plan of placing the trees in wooden boxes1 as had been previously adopted in reference to orange-trees4 ,some of the finest figs in ,england are grown in the neighbourhood of ,worthing4 ,those who have spent a summer there must have often eaten them for dessert4 ,there is a magnificent fig-tree at ,hampton ,court1 as old as the time of ,charles ,,ii4 rooted in a place which shall be nameless1 and the fruit of which is particularly fine flavoured4 ,in parts of ,italy1 ,sicily1 and the ,levant1 they have a curious custom of acupuncturating the fig when half ripe1 and introducing a drop of fine oil into the fruit2 this greatly mellows the flavour1 while it increases the size of the fig4 ,the white figs at ,cherbourg are very fine1 as those will say who have eaten them at dessert at the excellent table d'hte in that town4 ,occasionally1 also1 white figs1 equally excellent1 are to be procured in the ,channel ,islands4 ,pomegranates are scarcely ever seen at dessert in ,england1 and rarely in ,france1 except in ,languedoc and ,provence4 ,in the sixteenth century this fruit was much used in certain diseases1 and1 in localities where it was not grown1 was often sold for a louis-d'or4 ,when ,clement ,,vii4 arrived at ,marseilles to have an interview with ,francis ,i41 several ,frenchmen1 who had eaten to excess of pomegranates1 became seriously ill in consequence4 ,pomegranates are a favourite dessert at ,grenada in ,spain1 where they grow in great quantities4 ,chestnuts1 though a very common dessert fruit in ,france1 are comparatively little used in ,england1 though there is no reason why they should not be much cultivated1 as they grow well in a cold1 and even in a mountainous country4 ,in ,perigord they count eight different species of chestnuts1 and there1 as well as in ,brittany1 the chestnut forms a staple article of food for the peasantry4 ,madame de ,svign1 writing from her estate of the ,rochers1 near ,vitr1 says3--8,je ne connaissais la ,provence que par les grenadiers1 les oranges1 et les jasmins2 voil comme on nous la dpeint4 ,pour nous1 ce sont des chtaignes qui font notre ornement2 j'en avois l'autre jour trois ou quartres paniers autour de moi4 ,j'en fis bouiller1 j'en fis rtir1 j'en mis dans ma poche2 on en sert dans les plats1 on marche dessus1 c'est la ,bretagne dans son triomphe40 ,in the thirteenth century ,lombardy chestnuts were cried in the streets of ,paris4 ,according to heathen records chestnuts were first noticed at ,sardes1 in ,lydia4 ,virgil speaks of the 8castanea molles40 ,they are eaten at dessert boiled or roasted1 and are in both ways palatable4 ,cherries are1 in the season1 an important portion of a ,french as well as of an ,english dessert4 ,there are in ,france six species of black-heart cherries1 six of bigarreux1 and five-and-twenty of cherries and black cherries4 ,the cherries most prized by the ,parisians1 however1 are those of ,montmorency1 so named from that rich valley in which they grow1 extending from ,st4 ,denis to ,pontoise4 ,england1 our own dear country1 greatly transcends ,france in this article of dessert1 brought originally from the garden of ,mithridates4 ,not only are cherries produced in greater quantity1 but are much finer in flavour4 ,kent1 ,berkshire1 ,oxfordshire1 are pre-eminent in this produce2 and the ,may-duke 7probably originally from ,mdoc71 ,biggarroon 7bigarreux71 and white-heart attest our superiority4 ,apricots1 which frequently appear at dessert in ,france1 and not unfrequently in ,england at the tables of the wealthy1 were not known in either of these countries 7though they are mentioned by ,dioscorides1 who lived in the time of ,nero1 under the name of prcocia7 till the sixteenth century4 ,after that period they became rather common2 but previously were sold1 says ,champier1 as though the price were extravagant1 at a farthing a-piece4 ,when this fruit was first introduced into ,france it appeared no bigger than the smallest plum2 but the science and art of ,french gardeners not only contributed to increase its size but its flavour4 ,in #afea there were but three species of apricots2 the late1 the early1 and the musqu1 or musk-flavoured4 ,now there are at least twenty1 of which the apricot of ,nanci is the largest and best4 ,but the apricots of ,angoumois1 of ,holland1 of ,portugal1 and of ,alexandria1 are not to be despised4 ,under favour1 and with submission be it said1 however1 that the best apricot that ever was in ,grange's1 ,owen's1 ,marks'1 ,levy's1 ,solomon's1 ,israel's1 or ,raine's shop1 is but a dry and insipid article compared with a fine peach1 fine greengages1 fine fresh-gathered1 green1 hairy gooseberries1 fine ,mirabel plums1 fine pears1 or fine mellow ribston pippins4 ,the apricot comes originally from ,armenia4 ,the name originates in the situation which the tree prefers--a wall exposed to the heat of the meridian sun4 ,the word apricus is sometimes differently applied1 as aprici senes1 old men who delight in sitting and prattling on benches exposed to the reviving warmth of ,sol's rays4 ,there are about twenty kinds of plums both in ,england and ,france2 but among these the greengage1 called by the ,french the reine claude1 is by far the most luscious1 succulent1 and full-flavoured4 ,these plums1 called after the daughter of ,louis ,,xii41 first wife of ,francis ,i41 have1 in ,france1 a peculiarly rich mellow juiciness1 the effect probably of a drier atmosphere1 and the being exposed to a warmer sun on mud-built lime-washed walls1 with a southern aspect4 ,these greengages are always eaten with a peculiar relish in ,paris4 ,there is a sun-burnt look about them1 as well as1-- 8,a deep embrowned tint1 which tells ,how rich within the soul of sweetness dwells20 whereas the greengage of ,england looks pale and peaky1 as though it were afflicted with the green-sickness4 ,the peach1 or ,persian apple1 is one of the oldest known fruits in ,france1 and one of the commonest served at dessert4 ,the most esteemed in the neighbourhood of ,paris1 is the peach of ,corbeil4 ,in the provinces1 those of ,troyes and ,dauphin enjoy the greatest renown4 ,the ,auberi peach is common in ,languedoc1 and has latterly been cultivated in the neighbourhood of ,paris4 ,the ,duracine peach is a native of ,brittany4 ,it is of more than ordinary size1 and the flesh firm and juicy2 but almost all peaches in ,france are mere turnips compared with the hot-house fruit in ,england4 ,enter ,grange's in ,piccadilly1 or the elder ,owen's in ,bond ,street1 ,marks' at the corner of ,holles ,street1 and try one of the shilling peaches in the season1 and you will find a rich1 juicy1 fleshy flavour and aroma oftener sought than found in the fruit of ,france4 ,it is true that you may have six or eight peaches in ,france for the price you would pay for one in ,england at any of these three shops1 but that one peach is better than a bushel of such tasteless turnip fruit as is often presented to you all over ,gaul4 ,the ten and twelve sous peaches of ,corbeil1 which may be obtained at ,madame ,malliez in the ,march ,st4 ,honor1 are certainly a more commendable fruit1 but ,i should prefer for my own eating a first-rate hot-house peach to any three of them4 ,i know not whether an improved peach has recently come from ,china4 ,the peach is a fruit which has been cultivated in the ,celestial ,empire from the earliest times1 and celebrated in their ancient books1 in the songs of their poets1 and the disquisitions of their doctors4 ,the peach yu1 it is said in their legends1 produces an eternity of life1 and preserves the body from corruption to the end of the world4 ,a fine peach is a delicious fruit2 it is good with sugar1 good without sugar1 and excellent1 super-excellent with a glass of good ,madeira1 sherry1 or brandy thrown over it4 ,the peach-tree does not always require the protection of the sheltering wall in warmer climates4 ,the trees stand insulated in the vineyard or orchard1 swinging gently in the breeze1 which the ,french call pches de vigne1 and abricots en plein vent4 ,there is no better dessert fruit than a good apple1 and in this fruit ,england beats all the world1 with the exception of ,america4 ,the ,new-town pippin is unquestionably the first of apples1 but first-rate ribstons come next to it4 ,the nonpareil and golden pippin 7the golden apple of the ,hesperides7 are not without merit4 ,the great defect of ,french apples1 however1 is their general mealiness and want of juiciness4 ,the paradis of ,provence is the best of its kind4 ,there is also an apple of very tolerable flavour1 called the capendu1 which ladies lock up in their drawers and wardrobes to perfume their clothes4 ,there are about forty-six kinds of apples mentioned in the 8,thtre d',agriculture10 but the grey and white reinette are the only apples desirable at a ,french dessert4 ,the different species of pears 7from the ,epirean orchards of ,pyrrhus7 are more numerous even than the species of apples4 ,de ,serres speaks of ninety-five kinds of pears2 #djj are mentioned in the 8,jardinier ,franaise10 and more than #cjj in 8,la ,quintini40 ,it is not generally known that the famous chaumontel 7called by corruption in ,england charmontel71 was a wild pear transplanted into the garden and rendered perfect by culture4 ,the ,burgundy pear1 called ,madame ,oudotte 7and by corruption ,amadotte71 was also a wild pear found in a wood belonging to a lady of the name of ,oudotte4 ,four of the best dessert pears in ,france are the beurr1 the cuisse de madame 7my lady's thigh71 the pear of ,lyons1 the bergamotte of ,lorraine1 and the bon chrtien of ,tourraine4 ,the bon chrtien is by no means a common pear in ,england2 though towards the latter end of ,august1 or the beginning of ,september1 it is always to be had at ,covent ,garden ,market4 ,the finest ,spanish bon chrtiens ,i have ever eaten in ,england were grown in the garden of ,mr4 ,powell1 near to ,minster and ,herne1 in ,kent4 ,this is extraordinary1 as the ,kentish soil is unfavourable both to pears and apples1 while the opposite coast of ,essex produces exquisite fruit1 and above all1 those bulbous thin-skinned gooseberries1 equal to the best chasselas of ,fontainbleau4 ,compotes of pears are excellent and cooling at dessert1 and render the fruit more digestible1 according to the line1-- 8,cruda gravant stomachum relevant pyra cocta gravatam40 ,talking of the chasselas grape of ,fontainbleau1 the reader will naturally ask why ,i have hitherto omitted all mention of the finest fruit1 oranges excepted4 ,this was from no indisposition to do every justice to grapes1 the wholesomest and most grateful of fruits4 ,the best grapes in ,france are undoubtedly the chasselas1 which come into the ,paris markets neatly packed in small baskets1 sold for forty1 fifty1 and sixty sous each1 according to the quality4 ,in the autumn of the year many of the ,parisian badauds undergo a regimen of grapes1 eating nothing else for three weeks or a month4 ,used thus1 grapes have all the effect of the ,cheltenham waters4 8,they open the body10 says old ,lmery1 physician to ,louis ,,xiv41 8create an appetite1 are very nourishing1 and qualify the sharp humour of the heart4 ,they agree with every age and constitution1 provided they be not used to excess40 ,the ciotat1 the ,corinthe1 the black morillon1 the muscat of ,touraine1 are all excellent grapes1 and may be purchased in ,france for a few sous a pound4 ,in the southern departments of ,france as many grapes as the most inveterate eater of that fruit would desire may be had for the small sum of one penny1 though it must be admitted that the hot-house grapes of ,england are superior in flavour and variety to every description of grape in ,france1 excepting the chasselas2 but the prices asked in ,covent ,garden ,market are enormous and wholly unjustifiable4 ,hot-house grapes are1 in fact1 a luxury wholly beyond the reach of persons of moderate fortune4 ,notwithstanding the decided taste which ,louis ,,xv4 had for strawberries1 and the efforts made by his minions to furnish him with this fruit at his dessert all the year round2 we have1 nevertheless1 for the last century and a half1 surpassed the ,french in the variety and quality of this esculent4 ,the ,chilian strawberry is one of the largest produced in the imperial gardens of ,versailles and ,fontainbleau2 but strawberries of nearly twice the size may be daily seen during the months of ,may1 ,june1 and ,july1 in ,covent ,garden ,market4 ,the pine strawberry1 originally of ,louisiana1 was first introduced into ,france in #agfg4 ,though it may have more pine flavour than our pine strawberry1 yet it is by no means so large as the common run of pines in ,covent ,garden4 ,it too frequently happens1 however1 that what fruits gain in size they lose in flavour4 ,every good judge of fruit is quite opposed to the idea of monster fruit1 fish1 flesh1 or fowl2 convinced that average-sized turbots1 bullocks1 turkeys1 and fruits1 are among the very best4 ,the dried fruits are1 of course1 never produced at dessert1 when fresh fruits can be obtained4 ,a very common ,french dessert in the winter months is composed of almonds1 raisins1 and figs2 but1 though these afford a passable pastime enough when nothing better can be had1 yet the opinion of the ,gauls concerning their value may be learned from the name given to them4 ,if you wish to obtain the trio at a restaurant after a copious or a spare dinner1 you must not call for des amandes1 des raisins1 et des figues1 but ask for trois mendiants4 ,provence furnishes dried figs to ,paris2 the ancient province of ,maine1 dried cherries2 and ,rheims1 ,tours1 and ,brignoles1 dried plums4 ,dried apples1 a very palatable dessert1 come from ,tours and ,orleans4 ,in ,england our winter dessert is thus furnished3 the raisins come from ,malaga1 the figs and currants from ,turkey and the ,grecian islands1 the almonds from ,syria and the ,archipelago1 and the olives from ,spain and ,italy4 ,france produces this latter fruit on her own soil4 ,the ,phocians1 founders of ,marseilles1 first planted the olive in that locality2 and1 according to ,strabo1 taught the natives the art to cultivate it4 ,olives are now grown in every part of ,provence and ,languedoc1 and may be always found at dessert at the most moderate tables d'hte of ,marseilles1 ,toulon1 ,nismes1 ,montpelier1 ,avignon1 c4 ,biscuits1 cakes1 and sweetmeats1 are also an accompaniment4 ,the poets of the thirteenth century speak of flamiches and galettes chauds1 and at this period the ,rheims gingerbread was also in great vogue4 ,when ,champier wrote1 about #aefj1 the gingerbread of ,paris was nearly as renowned at dessert as the famous croquets of ,rheims4 ,a cake made of powdered sugar and almonds1 called massepain1 has also been common at dessert in ,france for more than three centuries4 ,its component parts are filberts1 almonds1 pistachio nuts1 pines1 sugar1 and a little flour4 ,it is1 however1 rather a dear morsel1 and can only be eaten by the wealthy4 ,l',etoile1 describing a magnificent collation of three courses given at ,paris in #aeif1 says1 8,que les confitures seiches et massepans y estoit si peu espargnez que les dames et damoiselles1 estoient contraintes de s'en dcharger sur les pages et les laquais1 auxquels on les bailloit tous entiers40 ,in the time of ,rabelais a tartlette or cake called darioles1 was eaten at dessert2 there were also other friandises called ratons1 and cassemuseaux1 and petit choux4 ,the first and last words have since been adopted as terms of endearment among lovers1 and from nurses and nursery-maids to children4 ,aromatic spices and warm seeds were much more frequently used at dessert a century and a half ago than in our own day4 ,after dinner1 says the work called 8,les ,triomphes de la ,noble ,dame10 8,on sert chez les riches1 pour faire la digestion1 de l'anis du fenouil et de la coriandre confits au sucre40 ,the author of 8,ile des ,hermaphrodites10 in painting the manners of the court of ,henry ,,iii41 makes the same remark4 ,after the dessert1 says he1 8,les uns prenoient un peu d'anis confit1 les autres1 cotignac1#bc mais il falloit qu'il ft musqu4 ,autrement il n'eut point eu d'effet en leur estomach qui n'avoit point de chaleur s'il n'etoit parfum40 ,at the royal table1 and in establishments of great lords1 another custom prevailed which did not obtain in the houses of private persons4 ,independently of the spices which composed the dessert1 there were others more select still1 which were served in a small box divided into compartments4 ,this box was of gold1 silver1 or silver gilt1 and was called a drageoir1 comfits being the principal portion of its contents4 ,this box was generally presented to the king by an esquire or person of condition1 and to the king only1 unless his majesty wished particularly to honour some one among the guests4 ,he then sent to him his comfit-box1 8,on apporta vins et pices10 writes ,froissart1 8et servit du drageoir1 devant le ,roi de ,france tant seulement1 le ,comte d',harcourt40 ,brandied fruits1 compotes and fruits preserved in syrup1 are generally produced at a ,french dessert2 as are marmalade fruits1 as1 for instance1 marmelade d'abricots1 de pches1 de pommes1 c4 ,fruit jellies1 as cornel berry jelly1 apple jelly1 are also esteemed delicacies4 ,various pastes are also occasionally handed round at dessert1 as apricot paste1 peach paste1 and ginger paste4 ,le ,loyer1 in his poetical pieces1 speaks of these pastes as proper to be given to cold and indifferent husbands3-- 8,que1 sur la fin du dessert1 on leur porte ,l'hypocras rouge on bien un puissant vin1 ,la truffe noir avec le fruit du pain40 ,there is no more pleasant dessert in the month of ,september than young filberts and walnuts1 in which former fruit ,england certainly surpasses the world4 ,in walnuts we are equalled1 if not surpassed1 by ,switzerland and ,france4 ,the truth is1 however1 that the dessert after a good ,london or ,parisian dinner is a superfluity1 and in ninety-nine cases out of a hundred does more harm than good4 ,this was the opinion of ,brillat ,savarin in his 8,physiologie du ,got40 ,a little bit of cheese1 says this great epicure1 may be permitted1 and some preserve or a sweetmeat4 8,un beau diner10 he adds1 8sans vieux fromage1 est un joli femme qui il manque un il40 ,the word dessert was introduced into the ,french language at the end of the sixteenth century4 ,in an ordonnance of the #bast ,january1 #aefc1 the word occurs4 8,en quelques noces festins ou tables particulires que ce puisse tre1 il n'y aurait dornavant que trois services au plus savoir1 les entres de table1 la viande ou le poisson1 et le dessert40 ,the following is the regulation of the ordonnance concerning the dessert3--,au dessert1 soit fruit1 ptisserie1 fromage1 ou autre chose quelconque1 il ne pourroit non plus1 tre servi que six plats1 le tout sous peine de #bjj livres d'amende pour la premire fois1 et #djj cent pour la seconde4 ,speaking of desserts1 a ,french authoress says1 8,le choix et l'arrangement des fruits ou des fleurs dont est pare la table1 l'elegance des edifices sucrs1 la symmetric des assiettes1 ne sont pas des soins tout fait tranges aux arts4 ,l'appetit satisfait1 les yeux et l'odorat sont flatts la fois par la beaut du fruit lgamment lev en pyramides2 par les formes varies des sucreries1 dont la saveur parfume rveille encore la satiet1 enfin par la fume des vins ptillants ou liquoreux dont les esprits volatils excitent la verve et animent la gait4 ,carme says the dessert ought to be the special labour of the lady of the house4 ,medical men in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries1 more especially in ,france1 ordered some fruits at the commencement of dinner4 ,champier recommended that cherries1 raspberries1 peaches1 and apricots should be so eaten2 and that after dinner medlars1 pistachio nuts1 filberts1 chestnuts1 apples1 quinces1 and pears should be produced4 ,melon1 in the time of ,henry ,,iv41 and to this day1 is eaten in ,france with the boulli1 just after the soup4 ,sully tells that one day when ,henry ,,iv4 was at dinner1 his ,matre d',htel entered with a golden basin filled with melons4 8,right glad am ,i10 said the jovial king1 8for ,i wish to-day to have a surfeit4 ,they never injure me when ,i eat them on an empty stomach and before meat1 as the doctors direct40 ,in ,madame ,svign's time the same opinion existed touching melons4 8,je ne vous deffends point les melons 7she wrote to her daughter71 puisque vous avez si bon vin pour les cuire40 ,the author of 8,la ,nouvelle ,instruction pour la ,culture du ,figuies10 written in #afib1 writes that figs should be eaten on an empty stomach and before dinner1 for it is an axiom1 he says1 in medicine1 to commence at supper or dinner by the things most easily digested4 ,illustration ,illustration ,,chapter ,,xvi4 ,,on ,,ices4 ,at regular set dinners ices are always served4 ,for a party of ten or fourteen there is generally a cream and water ice1 with biscuits1 c4 ,the ,french generally serve a greater number of ices than we do4 ,the ices most in vogue in ,london are pine1 lemon1 orange1 ginger1 strawberry1 and cherry ices4 ,in ,paris1 apricot1 peach1 chocolate1 coffee1 and four fruit ices are more common than with us4 ,some there are who date the use of ice at table from the time of ,alexander the ,great2 who1 it is said1 had caves in ,india for the preservation of ice2 but it is certain that in ,alexander's time the ,greeks cooled their wine with ice1 and that the ,romans were also acquainted with this luxury4 ,a ,french traveller in ,turkey1 writing in #aeec1 tells us that the ,turks had their glacires1 in which they preserved ice for table use4 ,henry ,,iii4 was said to be the first who introduced ice at his table in ,france1 and it became common enough in the following century4 ,the word glacire is not found in the dictionary of ,monet1 published in #afcf4 ,but in #affg ,boileau wrote3-- 8,pour semble de dis grace ,par le chaud qu'il faisait nous n'avions point de glace1 ,point de glace1 bon ,dieu6 dans le cur de l't1 ,au mois de ,juin40 ,wenham ,lake ice is now handed round during dinner to mix with wine or water between ,april and ,august4 ,illustration ,illustration ,,chapter ,,xvii4 ,,coffee4 ,after the dessert comes ,coffee1 and it is now fitting that ,i should make a few remarks on the best means of making that agreeable and stimulating beverage4 ,the coffee tree is a native of ,arabia4 ,the use of the berry extended itself to ,mecca1 ,medina1 and then to ,cairo in ,egypt4 ,it continued its progress northward2 and in #aeed1 under the reign of ,solyman the ,great1 became known to the inhabitants of ,constantinople4 ,the ,venetians introduced coffee to the western parts of ,europe4 ,in #afdd it was brought to ,marseilles1 and in #afeg to ,paris4 ,according to ,le ,grand ,d',aussy1 the custom of drinking coffee became general in ,paris in #affi1 through the example of ,soliman ,aga1 ambassador of ,mahomet ,,iv4 ,the coffee is an evergreen shrub1 rising to twenty feet in height4 ,the fruit is a round1 fleshy berry1 and great care is taken to conduct little rills of water in small channels to the roots of the trees4 ,the berry grown in ,arabia is smaller than that of the ,east and ,west ,indies1 but its flavour is much finer1 because in ,arabia the soil is rocky1 dry1 and hot4 ,the trees are watered by artificial means1 and therefore the proper quantity of moisture only is imbibed by them4 ,almost all studious1 hard-working men love coffee2 and this is not wonderful1 as it is1 when properly made1 a delightful1 innoxious1 and exhilarating beverage4 8,it is a slow poison10 said some one to ,voltaire1 who saw him drinking strong coffee4 8,it must be a very slow poison indeed10 rejoined the wit1 8as ,i have been taking it now for more than seventy years40 ,how often must a man who laboured as ,voltaire did have required a beverage which excited the nerves and exhilarated the spirits1 without producing the baneful effects of those stimulating liquids and narcotic substances which act on the brain8 ,in cases of extreme heat or cold1 coffee is the most salutary beverage1 as it not only warms and exhilarates the system1 but dissipates the languor produced either by fatigue or the influence of the climate or weather4 ,how many writers are there who have vaunted the good effects of coffee8 ,delille and ,lebrun have praised its virtues in well-tuned verses4 ,the poem entitled 8,les ,disputes10 by ,rulhire1 originated in coffee4 ,fontenelle1 who lived more than #ajj years1 is lavish in its praise4 ,montesquieu has consecrated to the brown ambrosial berry some eloquent and sounding periods2 and ,rousseau1 and ,buffon1 the most eloquent of prose writers1 have not forgotten to record the brilliant inspirations which they owed to its influence4 ,nor are these the only triumphs of the brain-clearing beverage4 ,heroes1 and statesmen1 and philosophers1 have bowed down before the filagree cups2 and ,frederick of ,prussia and ,napoleon1 ,talleyrand and ,cambaceres1 and ,metternich1 ,portalis1 ,corvisart1 and ,cuvier1 have all acknowledged and felt the inspiration and good effects of coffee4 ,one of the virtues1 the dissipating the fumes of wine1 has also been alluded to by ,delille3-- 8,le ,caf vous presente une heureuse liqueur1 ,qui d'un vin trop fumeux dissipe la vapeur40 ,in another passage1 the same poet thus apostrophises the cheering yet not inebriating liquor3-- 8,il est une liqueur au pote bien chre1 ,qui manquait ,virgile1 et qu'adorait ,voltaire3 ,c'est toi1 divin caf1 dont l'aimable liqueur1 ,sans altrer la tte1 panouit le cur40 ,it is a remarkable fact that1 during the retreat of the ,french from ,russia1 such soldiers as refrained from brandy1 and took only coffee1 escaped being frost-bitten1 or any of the diseases arising from exposure to cold4 ,there is no part of the world in which better coffee is sold than in ,london1 more especially the ,mocha coffee of ,twining 7which may be purchased1 unground and unroasted1 at #as4 #h;d4 the pound1 and roasted1 or ground and roasted1 at #bs4 #d;d4 the pound72 yet there is no spot in this world1 we verily believe1 where coffee is generally so badly made1 as in this great wilderness of a metropolis4 ,this arises from several causes3 first1 the purchasing coffee ground and roasted4 ,the consumption and sale of the article is so small in ,england1 compared to ,france1 that in many of the shops the ground coffee is a week1 and in many a fortnight or a month old2 and1 being too frequently exposed to the influences of the weather and climate1 the aroma has entirely evaporated4 ,there is scarcely a shop in ,london where coffee is daily roasted2 and1 even if there were such a shop1 the quantity purchased for private consumption is generally so large1 and the use of it so unfrequent in families1 that the flavour in so humid a climate is gone long before the coffee is consumed4 ,the ,turks1 who are our masters in the art of making coffee1 do not employ a mill to triturate the berry1 but pound it in mortars1 with pestles or mallets of wood4 ,when these machines have been long used for the purpose1 they are esteemed precious1 and sell at a large price4 ,brillat ,savarin relates the result of an experiment which he caused to be made as to the comparative merits of the liquid made from the pounded and the ground berry3-- 8,i roasted with care10 says he1 8a pound of good ,mocha coffee1 and separated it into two equal portions1 one of which was ground1 and the other pounded in the manner of the ,turks4 ,i made coffee with both one and other of these powders1 taking an equal weight of each1 pouring on each an equal portion of boiling water1 and in all respects dealing equally between them4 ,i tasted these coffees1 and caused them to be tasted by the best judges1 and the unanimous opinion was1 that the liquid produced from the powdered was evidently superior to the produce of the ground coffee40 ,the second reason why the coffee is inferior in ,england is1 that the berry is burned instead of being roasted1 and is consequently bitter and burnt1 instead of being fine-flavoured and aromatic4 ,the third reason is1 that at hotels1 coffee-houses1 clubs1 and even in private houses1 enough of the coffee 7even though it were good7 is not infused2 and the fourth reason may be found in the addition of an excess of water4 ,now1 in the first place1 the roasting of coffee should be carefully watched and superintended by an intelligent person4 ,the moment the berry crackles and becomes crisp enough to pulverise1 it is sufficiently roasted4 ,once taken off the roaster1 it should be placed in several thick folds of flannel to undergo the process of cooling4 ,this preserves the essential oil in the coffee1 and prevents the aroma from escaping4 ,when the coffee is cool1 place it in an air-tight canister4 ,sufficient for the day should be the coffee thereof4 ,in other words1 never roast1 if you can avoid it1 more than for a single day's consumption--certainly not more than for two or three days4 ,grind or pound your coffee not more than a quarter of an hour before you want to make the infusion4 ,there are various methods of preparing the infusion4 ,any one of them would have the effect of producing very tolerable coffee1 if the directions ,i have given touching the roasting and grinding of the berry were attended to1 and a sufficient quantity of the powdered coffee used4 ,but unfortunately ,english servants1 who drink tea or beer1 are ignorant of or insensible to the true flavour of coffee1 and as they do not partake themselves of the beverage1 become indifferent to its preparation4 ,the coffee produced by them is1 indeed1 drowned in a deluge of water1 and deserves the title given it in an old tract called the 8,petition against ,coffee10 namely1 8a base1 black1 thick1 nasty1 bitter1 stinking1 puddle water40 ,the best coffee in the world1 taken altogether1 is certainly made in ,paris1 though ,i have occasionally tasted at private houses in ,england1 where the master was a gourmet1 and the servants disciplined1 finer coffee than was ever brewed either at the ,caf ,foy or the ,caf ,corrazza4 ,and the only wonder is1 that it should not be always so2 for1 as was before observed1 the very finest qualities of coffee come to the ,london market4 ,for the last forty years1 a great deal of fancifulness has prevailed in ,paris as to the best manner of making coffee4 ,much of this arose1 no doubt1 from the inordinate love which ,napoleon exhibited for coffee2 as everyone was desirous to improve upon the favourite beverage of the little ,corsican and great conqueror4 ,projects of all kinds were started3 to make coffee without roasting it1 without grinding it1 to infuse it cold1 to make it boil three quarters of an hour1 c4 ,another mode was to run the cold water several times through the powder2 another1 to infuse the coffee over night4 ,but1 notwithstanding these vagaries1 coffee is generally well made in ,france4 ,it is true1 that it is most commonly adulterated by the admixture of chicore1 but there is nothing noxious in the endive2 it merely adds a bitterness to the coffee1 and is adopted in nine instances out of ten from motives of economy4 ,the most usual method of making coffee in ,france is ,dubelloy1 which consists in pouring boiling water on coffee placed in a porcelain or silver vase1 cullendered or pierced with very small holes4 ,this first decoction is poured off1 heated to boiling heat1 passed again through the coffee-pot1 when a clear and exquisite coffee is produced4 ,more than a full-sized tablespoonful of coffee should be allowed for each guest in making a small cup of coffee after dinner4 ,the most complete apparatus for coffee making ever invented in ,england1 is said to have been the production of ,mr4 ,jones1 of ,bond ,street1 ironmonger2 but1 as ,i have never tried it1 ,i will not speak of its merits4 ,the ordinary ,english tin coffee-biggin succeeds tolerably well if the coffee be properly roasted and ground2 but the disadvantage is1 that the filtering occupies so long a time1 that the coffee is half cold when ready to be poured into the cups4 ,the cylinder for roasting coffee1 which one cannot pass through the streets of ,paris without seeing constantly at work1 has been in use since #afhg4 ,the love of novelty is so great in that capital1 that when coffee was first introduced1 two methods were adopted of preparing it3 one1 the ordinary method now in use2 the other1 a method said to prevail in the seraglio at ,constantinople1 for the mistresses of the ,grand ,signor4 ,this consists in boiling for a certain time in hot water1 not the grain itself1 but the shell or pod which envelopes it4 ,this method affords a liquor of an agreeable colour to the eye1 but it yields a pale and flavourless coffee1 though decorated with the name of caf la sultane4 ,blegny invented1 in #afhg1 a distilled coffee water1 an oil1 and a syrup of coffee4 ,under the ,regent ,orleans1 coffee sweetmeats were invented1 to appear at dessert2 and a few years afterwards the distillateurs of ,montpelier made a liqueur1 produced after dessert1 which they called eau de caf1 whose odour resembled roasted coffee4 ,there were also tablettes de caf1 which were eaten before the liqueurs4 ,there were and are medical men who1 from the time of its introduction to our day1 have not ceased to sound the alarm as to the unwholesomeness of coffee2 but ,i think with old ,lmery1 that 8coffee fortifies the stomach and brain1 promotes digestion1 allays the headache1 suppresses the fumes caused by wine1 makes the memory and fancy more quick1 and people brisk that drink it40 ,this last effect1 says he1 has been observed by the shepherds of ,africa1 who took notice1 that before coffee was used1 and that their sheep fed upon this kind of pulse1 that they skipped about strangely4#bd ,i shall close my observations on coffee by giving a receipt of ,dr4 ,roques for a caf la crme frapp de glace4 ,it is a delicious breakfast during the summer heats4 ,here it is3--8,make a strong infusion of ,mocha or ,bourbon coffee2 put it in a porcelain bowl1 sugar it properly1 and add to it an equal portion of boiled milk1 or one-third the quantity of a rich cream4 ,surround the bowl with pounded ice40 ,doctor ,bonnafous1 of ,perpignan1 recommended this beverage to such persons as had lost their appetite1 or who experienced general debility4 ,this agreeable epicurean one day said to a patient1 ,dr4 ,roques1 who was himself in the profession1--8,study1 my friend1 that which is good1 that which pleases your palate4 ,try to become a little friand2 commence a series of gastronomic experiments without infringing a regimen4 ,you will be the better for it1 and in certain circumstances you will exercise on sickly people inclined to gourmandise an unlimited power4 ,breakfast during ,july1 ,august1 and a part of ,september1 on iced coffee1 and in winter on woodcock soup4 ,this is a regimen with which ,i restored to health and sense an aged canon who had nearly lost all appetite1 and who was disgusted with life40 ,brillat ,savarin recommends that coffee should be taken in the dinner-room1 as thus served it is hotter4 ,this may be so in establishments where there are an insufficient number of servants2 but in good houses in ,england1 where there is a regular establishment of servants1 coffee is served quite as hot in the drawing-room1 library1 or salon1 as in the dining-room or salle a manger4 ,coffee should be hot1 clear1 and strong2 and1 like every other good thing1 be taken in moderation4 ,morin1 in his 8,manuel d',hygiene10 says1 8,quelle que soit son action sur l'estomac1 il en est du caf comme de toute autre chose1 il faut en user et ne pas en abuser40 ,tea is much more generally taken after dinner in ,england than coffee1 and it is a beverage deemed more wholesome and more agreeable by the great majority of ,englishmen4 ,cowper's lines in the 8,task10 on the winter evening cup of tea1 will recur to the reader4 8,now stir the fire1 and close the shutters fast1 ,let fall the curtains1 wheel the sofa round1 ,and1 while the bubbling and loud hissing urn ,throws up a steamy column1 and the cups ,that cheer but not inebriate1 wait on each2 ,so let us welcome peaceful evening in40 ,illustration ,,chapter ,,xviii4 ,,on ,,different ,,liqueurs1 ,,ratafias1 ,,and ,,elixirs ,,taken ,,after ,,coffee4 ,the name of liqueurs is given to preparations composed of spirits of wine1 brandy1 sugar1 and the extracts of certain substances more or less aromatic4 ,the desired result is obtained either by distillation or by infusion4 ,infused liqueurs are called ratafias4 ,elixirs are certain wholesome or therapeutic liquors1 taken only by spoonfuls4 ,ratafias are as old as the time of ,louis ,,xii41 contemporary with ,henry ,,vii42 and elixirs were known antecedent to the time of ,charles ,,vii41 contemporary with our ,henry ,,vi4 ,the most renowned foreign liqueurs are the alkermes of ,florence1 the rossolis or rosoglio of ,bologna1 the barbados and the tarlufolgio of ,turin2 the citronelle of ,venice1 the cinamonium of ,trieste1 the maraschino of ,zara1 the krambambouli of ,dalmatia1 the absinthe of ,switzerland1 the kirschen wasser of the ,black ,forest1 the persicot of ,treves1 the kumin ,dantzic1 the double anisette and the white curaoa of ,amsterdam1 the tafi of the ,isle of ,france1 the blanc rack of ,batavia1 the old rum of ,jamaica1 the noyau of ,martinique1 the white vanilla of ,st4 ,domingo1 the eau des croles of ,martinique1 and the mirobolan of ,madame ,anfoux4 ,the fine or distilled liqueurs fabricated in ,france are1 les crmes de th1 de menthe1 de canelle1 d'orange1 and the eau angelique4 ,most of these are made at ,montpelier1 but all of them can be obtained at ,tanrades'1 in ,paris1 who is himself the proprietor and distiller of the crme d'ananas1 and the petit lait d',henry ,,iv4 ,ratafias are1 for the most part1 made in the provinces4 ,thus ,verdun is famous for its persicot1 ,phalsburg for its noyau1 ,lyons for its absinthe1 ,grenoble for its wild cherry ratafia1 ,hieres for its five fruited ratafia1 and ,orleans for its quince ratafia4 ,few of these1 however1 are known in ,england1 where the principal liqueurs used are noyau1 curaoa1 cherry-brandy1 and cognac4 ,of these ,i should say the three last were the wholesomest and most stomachic4 ,nothing can exceed1 indeed can equal1 cognac for a liqueur1 if it be old and genuine4 ,a liqueriste1 or a distillateur1 is a distinct trade in ,france from a limonadier4 ,these distillateurs composed their beverages for the most part from brandy or spirits of wine1 aromatised by the infusion of spices1 flowers1 honey1 fruits1 c4 ,cubebs1 cinnamon1 cloves1 grains of paradise1 liquorice1 sweetened and flavoured with rose-water1 pomegranate juice1 and sugar1 were the component parts of the earliest liqueurs which appeared in ,europe1 with the exception of the eau d'or1 or aqua aurea1 which ,arnaud de ,villeneuve describes as brandy1 in which was infused or macerated rosemary flowers1 with spices and colours to flavour it4 ,when golden elixirs became rife1 somewhat later1 the public desired that the eau d'or should really contain gold2 and hence the custom of putting some goldbeater's leaf1 cut up into small pieces1 into the infusion4 ,the eau de vie de ,dantzic1 of which a considerable portion is consumed in ,paris1 is prepared in this fashion4 ,liqueurs1 though known a considerable time previously1 were first greatly sought for in ,france at the period when ,catherine de ,medicis1 in #aecc1 came to wed the dauphin son of ,francis ,i4 ,the ,italians whom she brought in her suite1 and the creatures of that nation who flocked in crowds to ,france when she became queen1 greatly introduced the use of liqueurs1 which had been heretofore common in ,italy4 ,the nascent taste for them grew gradually into a passion2 and in #afjd1 ,sully1 in examining the objects of luxury which cost the ,french most1 particularises festins and liqueurs4 ,the populo and the rossolis were1 about two centuries ago1 the most popular of liqueurs4 ,the former was made with spirits of wine1 water1 sugar1 musk1 amber1 essence of aniseed1 essence of cinnamon1 c4 ,the rossolis took its name from the plant ros solis1 which was one of its ingredients4 ,among foreign rossolis1 that of ,turin was the most celebrated4 ,the liquor1 writes ,patin1 in #afec1 in one of those letters1 half ,french1 half ,latin1 which he was in the habit of inditing1--the liquor called rossolis 8nihil habet solare1 sed igneum quid potentissimum1 lumborum renum1 que doloribus adversissimum40 ,at this period1 all liqueurs were considered unpardonable luxuries1 if not sinful4 ,madame ,thanges1 who had been a gay demirep in her day1 at length became devout4 ,madame de ,svign1 writing in #afgd1 says3--8,elle 7meaning ,madame de ,thanges7 est souvent avec ,madame de ,longueville et tout fait dans le bel air de la dvotion2 mais elle est toujours de trs bonne compagnie et n'est pas solitaire4 ,j'tois l'autre jour auprs d'elle diner4 ,un laquais lui prsenta un grand verre de vin de liqueur2 elle me dit1 ,madame1 ce garon ne sait pas que je suis dvote40 ,and ,madame de ,svign archly adds1 8,cela nous fit rire40 ,well1 indeed1 might the company laugh1 though the proper rebuke would have been to answer1 in the words of ,shakespeare1 8,think'st thou1 because thou art virtuous1 we shall have no more cakes and ale8 ,ay1 by ,st4 ,anne6 and ginger shall be hot in the mouth1 too40 ,the first manufactory of liqueurs in ,france which had a remarkable success1 was a fabric established at ,montpelier4 ,in #agjd1 when ,louis ,,xiv4 suppressed the community of limonadiers1 establishing in their stead #aej privileged persons1 an ordonnance pointed out what liqueurs it was lawful to sell4 ,these were la fenouillette1 le ,vatt1 l'orange1 ,cette1 ,genivre1 and millefleures4 ,the first fabric of liqueurs which had any extensive renown was that of ,montpelier4 ,it may be well imagined that a city which had so long been celebrated as a school of medicine had eminent chymists and distillateurs2 but1 when these acquired a renown as liquorists1 they reposed on their success1 became careless1 and in the end were justly supplanted by others4 ,lorraine succeeded to the renown of the ,mons ,puellarum1 or ,montpelier4 ,this was chiefly owing to the decoction of one ,solmini1 probably an ,italian1 who1 about a century ago1 pretended to have invented a liqueur which he called parfait amour4 ,this1 however1 was no new invention at all2 it was but ratafias of fruits and nuts1 the eau de cdrat of the ,sieur la ,faveur of ,montpelier1 which this worthy had disguised by giving it a red tinge by means of cochineal4 ,the brothers ,bosserrant succeeded ,solmini1 producing a cheap and inferior article1 which had for a season a vogue4 ,but the imposition was soon found out1 and the reputation of the brothers was lost as speedily as it was acquired4 ,in the country parts of ,france most of the grocers sold1 and still sell1 ratafias fabricated by themselves2 but they are1 one and all1 poor stuff4 ,at ,beaumont and ,neuilly1 in the environs of ,paris1 were two ratafia makers who had great success4 ,the ,neuilly man made a considerable fortune and built a country house1 in which he caused to be engraved this inscription1 8,ex liquido solidum40 ,this is almost as good as the ,irish distiller who made a large fortune by smuggling1 and built a magnificent house which he called 8,sans souci40 ,a brother in the trade1 who had been less fortunate because more honest1 built a small modest box nearly opposite1 which he called 8,sans six sous40 ,to return1 however1 to ratafias4 ,these are certainly the liqueurs which are preferably adopted in all mnages bourgeois1 because1 being but infusions of flowers or fruits1 they are the cheapest and the most easily made4 ,the most popular ratafia in ,france is the black currant1 a renown which it owes in a great measure to the praises bestowed on it by ,lmery1#be who thus speaks of it3-- 8,c'est un lixir trs excellent1 et trs propre entretenir la sant4 ,il est trs bon pour les hydropiques dissout les pierres1 fait sortir le gravier1 gurit toutes les fivres tierces1 quartres1 continues4 ,il presrve du vomissement sur la mer1 et du scorbut de la bouche4 ,il fait sortir la petite vrole1 la rougeole1 le pourpre1 et toutes les maladies contagieuses4 ,il prvient la goutte1 et purifie merveilleusement le sang2 c'est un antidote contre tous les poisons et piqres de btes vnimeuses4 ,il est bon pour les coliques1 les dyssenteries1 les maux et durets de la rate4 ,il fortifie l'estomac1 chasse les vents1 rjouit le cerveau1 gurit les migraines et les maux de tte4 ,il est bon pour toutes les maladies des femmes1 mme en couche4 ,il facilitte l'accouchement4 ,quand on en use habituellement1 on n'a presque rien craindre de l'apoplexie ni de la paralysie4 ,il n'y a point de maladie qu'il ne soulage ni ne prvienne4 ,son effet dans les plaies est plus prompt que celui du baume du ,prou4 ,on en a donn des chevaux trs malades1 qui ont t guris en trs peu de temps10 c4 ,although the ,french of the metropolis are now somewhat disenchanted of their passion for black currant ratafia1 yet it maintains its popularity in the provinces4 ,the liqueurs of the ,french ,west ,india ,islands obtained a great renown in the last century4 ,these liqueurs were strong and ardent1 and required to be kept a long time before they were generally used4 ,one of the most renowned makers of these liqueurs was the widow ,anfoux of ,martinique1 who ultimately came to ,paris4 ,it was plain1 however1 that it was 8distance0 that 8lent enchantment0 to her distilling2 for no sooner had she settled in the ,rue ,montmartre1 than her decoctions1 infusions1 and brewings1 began to pall on the taste of the ,parisians4 ,before the first ,french ,revolution1 liqueurs were divided into two classes4 ,the first might be called essences2 they bore the name of oily liqueurs1 for they were1 in fact1 thick and oily3 the second class were1 in opposition to those1 called dry4 ,the inventor of the oily liqueurs was a ,doctor ,sigogne1 who1 by the application of boiled sugar and saffron1 sought to render the liqueurs which he produced more soft1 velvety1 and unctuous4 ,in this he perfectly succeeded1 and subsequently hit upon the happy name for his brewing of l'huile de ,vnus4 ,this liqueur had a prodigious success2 some notions of which may be formed from the fact that1 after the death of the inventor1 small packages of it were sold at private sales at the rate of three and four louis a pint4 ,the first distillateur liquoriste who acquired a reputation in ,paris was ,le ,livre1 then ,la ,serre1 and afterwards a ,sieur ,omfroi4 ,the most renowned liqueur of our ,west ,india ,islands was the eau des ,barbades4 ,a very small bottle of this used to sell for a louis d'or2 but the price1 as well as the fiery nature of the article1 caused it to sink in public favour4 ,the ,dutch invented cinnamon water1 crme de girofle1 and crme de canelle1 when they were the exclusive possessors of the ,spice ,islands1 and also curaao1 which is now produced in great quantities in ,luxembourg 7previously to the ,belgian ,revolution of #ahcj a ,dutch town7 and ,amsterdam4 ,the crme de girofle is a delightful liqueur1 and is said by a writer in the 8,magazine of ,domestic ,economy0 to be excellent for singers when suffering under relaxation of the throat4 ,it is made by adding forty drops of oil of cloves to a quart of spirits of wine and a quart of syrup1 with as much of red colouring matter as will impart a good colour4 ,crme de canelle is also an agreeable liqueur1 and beneficial to the dyspeptic by warming the stomach1 and giving increased action to that organ4 ,curaoa is one of the very best of liqueurs4 ,the finest is made at ,luxembourg and ,amsterdam2 but1 if the frugal housekeeper cannot afford the expense of the genuine article1 he may resort to a receipt contained in the second volume of the 8,magazine of ,domestic ,economy40 ,the tincture and pod of vanilla is much used in ,france in flavouring as well as colouring liqueurs4 ,the crme de vanille is not an unpleasant cordial1 and is stomachic1 and slightly stimulant4 ,ireland invented that horrid burning beverage called scubac1 shubach1 or usquebaugh4 ,this liqueur1 called usquebaugh1 or schubagh1 had its birth in the sweet1 clean1 neat little town of ,drog-he-da2 or1 as it was called in the time of ,cromwell1 ,tredagh4 ,schubagh is a decoction of barley1 tinged with an infusion of saffron1 sweetened with sugar1 to which is added spirits of wine to give it strength4 ,it is the strongest and most fiery of cordials1 and is only fit for a ,gueber4 ,schubagh was early counterfeited in ,france1 and the counterfeit may1 by a species of contradiction1 be said to have surpassed the original4 ,many new ingredients were added1 as mace1 cloves1 cinnamon1 jujubes1 aniseed1 juniper-leaves1 c42 but1 notwithstanding this addition and improvement1 this beverage never became a favourite in ,paris1 though it had subsequently some repute at ,copenhagen1 ,stockholm1 ,revel1 and ,riga4 ,to ,ireland we are also indebted for raspberry and black currant whiskey4 ,a teaspoonful of either may be taken1 but it should be kept ten years in bottle4 ,the eau cordiale of ,colladon1 a famous physician of ,geneva1 was composed of the essential oil of lemons1 extracted by expression1 rectified spirits of wine1 sugar1 and eau de mlisse4 ,this liqueur is reported to have been the most salubrious and agreeable of any in the category2 but the price of it was so excessive1 even during the life of the inventor1 that it was but little consumed4 ,the eau de vie d',andaye is a pure and simple brandy2 but the slight taste of fennel which is communicated to it in distillation1 places it in the rank of liqueurs4 ,it was in the month of ,september1 #ahcg1 that having crossed over the ,bidassoa in a fordable part1 running the risk of being mistaken by the ,carlists for a ,christino1 that ,i sat down under the shadow of the town of ,irun1 and within view of ,andaye itself1 to eat of a ,dutch cheese1 a shallot1 some cresses1 and a crust of the beautifully white bread of ,spain4 ,i washed down this homely fare with a glass of the far-famed eau de vie d',andaye1 diluted with the water of a rill which ran ripplingly over the pebbles beneath my feet2 and1 whether from the exercise1 the purity of the air1 the tranquil stillness of the place--rendered more fearfully still by the reverberation of a stray shot in the distance--,i thought the fare delicious1 and relished the brandy as the most vinous and cordial drop ,i ever tasted4 ,mentioning this in the summer of the following year to a ,west ,india gentleman1 my late lamented friend1 ,mr4 ,james ,mac,mahon1 in the ,quarry ,walk of ,shrewsbury1 and who was a great gourmet1 though a point-blank realist and matter-of-fact man1 he replied1 8,there's no delusion in it2 and neither the air1 the scenery1 nor the exercise1 had anything to do with the matter4 ,it is the pure quality and excellence of the brandy alone that gave to the beverage so intense a relish1 as ,i shall prove to you4 ,a week ago ,i dined with ,earl ,talbot at ,ingestrie4 ,there was a large party2 it was a diner d'apparat1 with turtle1 venison1 and all the delicacies of the season4 ,half-a-dozen liqueurs were produced2 but last of all some eau de vie d',andaye1 which the host declared had been in the cellar since #agif1 a period of forty-two years4 ,now it was nine o'clock when this was produced1 and my taste was somewhat palled from the multitude of good things1 both solids and fluids1 of which ,i had tasted2 yet1 whether from age or frequent rectification1 ,i never tasted anything so delicious1 so that your theory falls to the ground40 ,in the island of ,r1 it is said1 brandy is prepared exactly by the same process as at ,andaye2 but1 though ,i have sailed by this island1 it has never been my fate to taste of the produce of its distillation4 ,the eau de vie de ,dantzic is simply brandy rectified1 with the addition of aniseed and goldbeater's leaf4 ,this liqueur is not much used here1 but it is in great request in ,paris4 ,the receipt for making it is as follows3--,to one quart of spirits of wine1 add twelve drops of oil of aniseed1 six of oil of cinnamon1 three of oil of roses1 and eight of oil of citron2 mix with it a quart of syrup1 filter it1 and1 when bottling1 mix with goldbeater's leaf cut into little bits4 ,maraschino is the produce of a wild cherry1 common in the territory of ,zara in ,dalmatia4 ,for a long succession of years the ,dalmatians only made a species of cherry-wine of their fruit2 but they afterwards extracted a brandy from them1 and ultimately a liqueur1 which was so perfect and popular1 that before the first ,french ,revolution the senate of ,venice kept the sale of the precious beverage in its own hands4 ,some of the frontier ,french provinces of ,alsace1 ,lorraine1 and ,dauphin1 endeavoured to extract from the same species of cherry a brandy called kirchwasser4 ,with this they essayed1 but in vain1 to imitate the maraschino of ,zara4 ,there are many ratafias1 essences1 waters1 and syrups produced in ,france as liqueurs1 such as ratafia d'anglique1 de flore1 de fleurs d'orange1 de grenade1 eau divine1 cordiale du chasseur nuptiale1 c42 but it would be unjust not to mention the noyau1 the anisette de ,bordeaux1 and the absinthe4 ,the noyau is one of the most pleasing1 but also one of the most pernicious liqueurs when taken to excess4 ,it is chiefly made of the kernels of apricots and peaches1 which contain a vast quantity of prussic acid4 ,orange-flower water and triturated vanille are also ingredients4 ,a very small liqueur-glass of this cordial is a pleasing thing enough after fruit or coffee2 but the portion taken should be small1 nay1 of the infiniment petits4 ,there is a pink as well as a white noyau1 but the latter is to be preferred4 ,bordeaux is famous for its anisette2 and this liqueur is not a bad carminative for gouty old men4 ,the name of ,marie ,brissart1 as a manufacturer of anisette1 has attained a ,european reputation4 ,the absinthe is an excellent tonic and stomachic4 ,it is an infusion of wormwood1 and is an especially favourite liqueur with critics and reviewers1 for its extreme bitterness is nearly akin to their own4 ,the ,english liqueurs are few4 ,the cherry bounce of ,hoffman and ,son1 of ,bishopsgate ,street ,within1 which used to sell at #hs4 or #is4 the pint1 was excellent1 but the firm have made a fortune and retired4 ,this beverage had an immense sale at ,bombay1 ,madras1 and ,calcutta2 but it is1 if possible1 still more popular up the ,mofussil4 ,rum ratafia1 rum shrub1 pine-apple rum1 and brandy shrub1 are all good things1 but none of them are so excellent as ,hoffman's bounce4 ,it will be seen1 from what ,i have stated1 that all these liqueurs1 with whatever fine names they may be decorated1 have for their basis a mixture of brandy1 sugar1 and water1 whose proportions vary according to the kind of liqueur which is to be prepared4 ,such aromatic accessories are added as are deemed most proper to flatter the taste and the smell2 and the great talent of a liquouriste consists in the choice and admixture of these aromatics1 and in the mingling together such fruits and flavours as fraternise most fully and cordially4 ,the finest aroma in fruit and flower will not always suffice1 however1 to produce fine liqueurs4 ,some plants of exquisite natural odours produce in distillation indifferent liqueurs2 others there are of not so odorous a smell1 which form the happiest possible combinations4 ,there are many1 for instance1 who do not like the aroma of the truffle1 and the perfumer can make little of it1 yet it furnishes a most agreeable ratafia4 ,it must in candour be admitted that the ,french are our masters in the art of the liquouriste4 ,they divide liqueurs into three classes1--ordinaires1 fines1 and surfines4 ,the fine and superfine liqueurs are also known under the designation of crmes and huiles4 ,oily liqueurs should be made thicker than creamy1 and should pour out like olive oil4 ,such liqueurs as go under the names of crmes are white1 while the oily liqueurs should be of the colour of olive-oil4 ,our lively neighbours profit by every innocent artifice to give a greater vogue to their productions1 and christen their cordials with the most taking--why should we not say with the most pocket-picking names8 ,thus we have the petit lait de ,henri ,quarte1 l'eau des braves1 l'huile de ,vnus1 le parfait amour1 l'eau nuptiale1 l'eau virginale1 c41 the gouttes de ,maltes of ,la ,moine1 and the liqueur impriale1 and de ,pomone of the same fabricant4 ,many of the liqueurs drunk both in ,england and ,france are exceedingly unwholesome2 and should any one need a cordial or stimulant after dinner or with his coffee1 ,i would in preference recommend a small glass of pure ,cognac brandy2 but this should be obtained from a trustworthy house1 as the ,cognac brandies are adulterated with ,spanish or ,bordeaux brandy of very inferior quality1 with neutral-flavoured rum and rectified spirits4 ,british brandy-bitters are used to fill up the flavour1 but comparatively in small quantities1 as it is exceedingly powerful4 ,the adulterated brandy is usually composed of rectified spirits1 cassia1 carraways1 chamomile-flowers1 orange-peel1 c4 ,cherry-laurel water is also used to answer the same purpose as ,british brandy-bitters1 and is1 indeed1 more frequently had recourse to1 because the quantity of it applied does not prevent a trial of the strength of the brandy by the hydrometer4 ,the qualities of laurel-water are poisonous and pernicious1 and the extract of almond-cake1 prepared by keeping a quantity of the cake for a long time in spirits of wine1 is also a noxious ingredient4 ,the almond-cake is used to impart to the adulterated brandy a taste resembling the kernel flavour which the genuine article possesses4 ,the extract of capsicums and extract of grains of paradise1 known in the trade by the name of the devil1 are also frequently used4 ,the extract of capsicums is made by putting a quantity of the small ,east ,india chilies into a bottle of spirits of wine1 and keeping it closely stopped for a month4 ,the same process is followed in reference to grains of paradise1 and they are both used to impart an appearance of strength4 ,they infuse into the spirit1 a hot1 pungent1 fiery flavour1 which no one of good taste--no one1 indeed1 whose organs of taste were not vitiated by a long indulgence in ardent spirits--would at all relish4 ,colouring of burnt sugar is also had recourse to1 to deepen the colour of the brandy rendered too pale by the preceding mixtures1 and it is further employed to answer the same end with rum4 ,saffron1 mace1 terra japonica1 spirits of sweet nitre1 and prunes1 are used to improve the flavour of brandy1 and new brandy is made to look like old by the addition of aqua ammoni4 ,on the ,german liqueurs ,i have not yet touched4 ,the principal among these are the ,pomeranzen1 ,wackholder1 and the ,kummel4 ,the ,pomeranzen is made by adding to a quart of spirits of wine ninety drops of oil of orange and a quart of the syrup4 ,the ,wackholder is made by putting thirty drops of oil of juniper to a quart of spirits of wine1 adding a quart of the syrup2 and ,kummel is prepared by adding to a quart of spirits of wine seventy drops of oil of carraways4 ,after it has been shaken well1 it should be filtered1 and it will then be fit to bottle4 ,i have already intimated an opinion that the profuse1 or indeed the frequent and moderate use of liqueurs is to be deprecated3 but as an agreeable termination to a repast1 or as a gentle stimulus1 inducing the stomach to perform its functions more kindly1 they may be used with advantage4 ,they should1 however1 be taken rarely and sparingly1 for the particular effect to be looked for is a gentle action of the stomach4 ,the liqueur1 whatever its nature1 should be taken as in all foreign countries1 as a chasse caf1 immediately after the small cup of strong coffee1 and it should be sipped slowly1 and allowed to linger on the palate4 ,jean de ,milon1 a famous physician1 who wrote in the seventeenth century1 and addressed his aphorisms to a king of ,england1 proclaimed in the following verses that nothing should be taken after coffee1 so excellent was it1 and for this reason he condemns liqueurs3-- 8,prludant off1 prcludat prandia coffe4 ,dulcitur invadit1 sed duriter ilia rodit4 ,spiritus ex vino quern fundit dcxtra popino40 ,but with all respect to so eminent an authority1 the occasional use of a thimbleful of brandy bounce may be recommended after coffee as rather beneficial than otherwise1 for most will agree with old ,lmery#bf in thinking1 8these liquors1 being taken moderately1 heat and fortify the stomach1 help digestion1 expel wind1 allay the cholic1 revive the spirits1 promote the circulation of the blood1 and recover strength40 ,i have only to say1 in conclusion1 that the most famous liqueurs of ,france are fabricated at ,blois1 ,grenoble1 ,langres1 ,montpelier1 ,nismes1 ,verdun1 and ,paris4 ,illustration ,illustration ,,chapter ,,xix4 ,,ale1 ,,beer1 ,,cider1 ,,and ,,perry4 ,ale or beer are rarely if ever produced at regular set dinners now-a-days1 though at quiet family parties of three or four1 or in private houses en famille1 table beer1 ale1 and stout are often used by invalids2 and occasionally are taken from choice by young1 middle-aged1 and elderly people who drink both ale and wine4 ,at the mid-day meal called lunch1 also1 beer is an article not unfrequently taken by those young ladies who exhibit so little appetite for dinner at fashionable tables at eight o'clock4 ,the beers most generally consumed in ,london are ,bass's and ,allsopp's bitter beer1 and ,guinness's ,irish stout4 ,all these1 when obtained genuine1 are excellent1 and ,i believe wholesome1 but they should be used very sparingly indeed when wine is taken4 ,dr4 ,paris tells us that the most useful quality in the beer comes from the hop4 8,independently10 says he1 8of the flavour and tonic virtues which hops communicate1 they precipitate by means of their astringent principle the vegetable mucilage1 and thus remove from the beer the active principle of fermentation2 without hops1 therefore1 we must either drink our malt liquors new and ropy1 or old and sour40 ,the nutricious qualities of malt liquors1 for those who live much in the open air1 who hunt1 shoot1 or use much corporeal exercise1 cannot be disputed4 ,but the studious and the sedentary would do well to avoid beer1 if wine be consumed by them at the same meal4 ,good cider is an exceedingly wholesome beverage for persons who exercise much in the open air1 and it relieves thirst better than malt liquors1 but it is now never seen at a ,london dinner-table1 and is only to be met at country houses in ,devonshire1 ,gloucestershire1 ,somersetshire1 or ,herefordshire1 or occasionally in some of the common rooms of ,oxford and ,cambridge4 ,according to the accounts of some modern writers1 it is not more than four centuries since cider has been introduced into ,france4 ,be this as it may1 provincial academies in all parts of ,normandy1 ,brittany1 and the higher ,pyrenees1 have agitated the question for years and years together de origine cidri1 and it seems now to be agreed by these men1 or literati1 that the invention is due to the ,biscayans1 who taught the natives of ,barbary to fabricate it2 who1 in their turn1 taught the art to the ,normans4 ,it is certain1 if we are to believe ,du ,perron1 that when the ,normans1 in the sixteenth century1 had not sufficient cider for their own consumption1 they drew their supply from ,biscay2 but long before the period contended for either by ,normans or ,biscayans1 cider was drunk at the table of the ,french kings of the first race4 ,in ,france the best ciders are produced in the ,pays de ,caux1 in the ,valley d',auge1 and in the beautiful country of the ,cotentin4 ,francis ,i41 in passing by ,morsalines in #aecb1 found the cider so good1 that he purchased a considerable quantity1 of which he drank so long as the provision lasted4 ,the finest cider in ,england1 taken in the gross1 is made in ,herefordshire2 but there is a particular kind made in ,somersetshire which1 for softness1 fulness1 and velvety flavour1 surpasses the ,herefordshire cider4 ,it is called by the extraordinary name of ,cocky ,gee4 ,the best cider in ,france goes by as extraordinary a cognomen4 ,it is called the ,cue-,nou1 and is pronounced by ,charles ,etienne unequalled for softness1 bouquet1 and beauty of colour4 ,there was a college in ,oxford in my younger days1 two of the fellows of which used to yearly obtain hogsheads of this ,cocky ,gee cider from an old clergyman in ,somersetshire1 who made the liquor from the produce of his own orchard4 ,never was there a more delicious beverage4 ,full-flavoured1 soft1 creamy1 yet vigorous1 it was preferred to any champagne4 ,of perry1 it is not necessary ,i should say much1 as it has a great affinity to champagne4 ,the pious ,radegonde1 according to the legend1 drank perry water to mortify herself4 ,the three best species of perry are made with the ,poire de ,cir1 the ,robert1 and ,carisi4 ,the first does not keep1 the second flies to the head1 and the third1 though it has the same effect1 is renowned for its strength1 limpidity1 and muscadel flavour4 ,two centuries and a half ago this country imported much cider and perry from ,normandy4 ,about the same period1 great quantities were sent to ,paris from the provinces2 but1 so soon as it was perceived that the cabaretiers made use of it to adulterate their wines1 the use of the beverage was forbidden4 ,it was not till about a century ago that the usage of hydromel at dinner and dessert altogether ceased4 ,in the thirteenth century this beverage was made by adding twelve pints of water to one of honey2 but it was then so insipid and flat1 that aromatic herbs1 foreign and domestic1 were added to give it pungency4 ,hydromel thus prepared was called bogerase1 borgerafre1 or borgeraste4 ,in the monkish houses it was used as a treat on feast-days4 ,in the coutumes of the order of ,cluni it is called potus dulcissimus4 ,the clergy1 in those days1 had1 like the laity1 their periods of festivity and rejoicing4 ,in the repasts of the northern nations1 beer was always served with dessert1 and1 even in the present day1 in ,hamburg1 ,lubeck1 ,altona1 ,kiel1 ,dantzic1 and many other of the northern parts of ,germany1 nuts and ale are considered a rare treat4 ,it is a mistaken notion to think that beer is a modern beverage1 or that its use is exclusively confined to ,england4 ,the ,egyptians had two sorts of beer1 one called zythus1 the other curmi or carmi4 ,belon1 in his 8,observations sur les ,singularits trouves en ,grce et en ,asie10 inclines to the opinion that the curmi was made with the whole grain1 and that the zythus was1 like the posca of the ,latins1 a species of orgeat1 made with the flour of the grain1 which was kept in paste and diluted for the occasion4 ,the ancient ,gauls knew but two beverages1 wine and beer4 ,the use which they made of beer is attested by ,diodorus ,siculus1 by ,athenus1 by ,theophrastus1 and by ,pliny4 ,diodorus and ,theophrastus state that the ,gauls called their beer zythus4 ,if this be true1 it is not improbable that they received from the ,egyptians both the name and the beverage4 ,be this as it may1 it is certain that the insensate order which ,domitian gave1 to tear up all the vines in ,gaul1 rendered the use of beer but the more general4 ,nor did the permission of ,probus to replant the vine cause a more general use of the juice of the grape2 for1 about eighty years after his reign1 the ,emperor ,julian complains of the general use of beer1 and even condescends to brew an epigram against the bitter and wholesome beverage4 ,to ,probus1 however1 every lover of wine is indebted4 ,the wines of ,burgundy1 ,champagne1 and even ,tokay1 owe to him their existence4#bg ,speaking of this emperor1 ,crevier says3--8,je m'tonnerais que ce prince n'et pas t clbr par les buveurs comme un nouveau ,bacchus1 si les buveurs toient savans4#bh ,il prit soin lui-mme de faire planter en vigne par les soldats le ,mont ,alma prs de ,sermim sa patrie1 et le ,mont d'or dans le ,moesie suprieure1 et il donna ces vignobles aux habitans du pays1 en les chargeant du soin et des frais de la culture40 ,julian1 on the contrary1 affected or followed sobriety1 disdained the use of beer1 and1 though he praises the severe and simple manners of his beloved ,paris1 ,a1#bi yet he austerely chides the intemperance of the ,gauls1 while admitting the excellence of their vines4 ,that the vines were rare in his time1 and wine dear1 is plain from the fact that the ,parisians of that early day were in the habit of drinking beer1 as the middle classes of ,england do in the year of grace1 #ahfd4 ,thus1 #aejj years ago1 to speak in round numbers1 the ,parisians commenced their repasts with beer1 and finished with wine4 ,the custom still subsists both in ,england1 ,flanders1 and ,germany1 though it may be said to be nearly fallen into disuse in ,france4 ,at the table of the ,burgundian kings it was customary to serve both wine and cider at the same time2 and if ,thierri1 ,king of ,burgundy1 drank both wine and cider at the same meal1 who will deny that the ,french kings may not have drunk wine and beer8 ,charlemagne1 in his capitulary de villis1 directs that among the workmen to be employed on his farms there shall be some who know how to make beer4 ,it is a remarkable fact1 that the fairest and most favoured countries of the earth--the countries producing the best wines1 ,greece1 ,gaul1 ,italy1 and ,spain--have simultaneously used beer4 ,the council of ,aix-la-,chapelle regulated the quantity of beer and wine which should be consumed by both sexes in religious houses4 ,in a rich house1 situated in an abundant wine country1 each regular canon was daily allowed five pounds' weight of wines1 and each chanoinesse three4 ,if it were a country not thickly studded with vines1 the allowance was three pounds of wine with three of beer for the canon1 and two of beer and two of wine for the chanoinesse4 ,there were brewhouses in all the ancient monasteries4 ,in going through ,picardy1 ,normandy1 and ,brittany1 even in our own day1 the spot where the brewhouse formerly existed is always shown4 ,when the monks drank beer they were wise enough to brew it themselves1 and were not tributary to the ,barclays1 ,meuxs1 ,calverts1 ,guinnesses1 ,basses1 ,hodsons1 and ,allsopps of the day4 ,within the walls of the convent were the ovens1 the vats1 and even the mills necessary for the grain4 ,there exists a charter of ,henry ,i4 7#ajdb7 in favour of the monastery of ,montreuil-sur-,mer1 by which the monarch grants to that house two of those mills cerevisi usibus de servientes4 ,in our own country the custom of brewing in religious houses survived the ,reformation1 and the beer of ,trinity and ,christchurch is now just as good as it was in the time of ,william of ,wykeham1 ,archbishop ,chichele1 ,hugh de ,balsham1 or ,william ,bateman1 ,bishop of ,norwich4 ,as the number of vineyards increased in ,france1 the use of beer diminished1 until it became at length uncommon to see it at the table of a layman4 ,in the thirteenth century that very ,paris1 which under the ,emperor ,julian had scarcely any other beverage than beer1 could hardly count a brewer4 ,but the fraternity who delight in gentian1 coculus ,indicus1 mazerion1 liquorice root1 and grains of paradise1 again appeared in numbers towards #adbh4 ,the author of the 8,journal de ,paris10 composed under the reigns of ,charles ,,vi4 and ,,vii41 attributes this descent from wine to beer to the oppressive taxation and heavy exactions of ,charles ,,vi4 ,among the memoirs furnished to the ,duke of ,burgundy in #afih by the different intendants of the kingdom1 on the state of ,france1 the memoir of the intendant of ,paris remarks that the misery and distress of the people had considerably diminished the commerce of wine in his district2 whilst the consumption of beer1 on the contrary1 increased in proportion1 so that in the same year the brewers had consumed #hj1jjj setiers 7the setier was twelve bushels7 of barley1 without counting the corn employed for white beer4 ,at this period beer in ,france was made of barley and rye1 but meslin1 corn1 vetches1 and lentils1 were also added4 ,the seeds or flowers of hops were added only when wheat or barley was used4 ,the use of hops was entirely unknown to the ancient ,gauls1 and how they1 under these circumstances1 contrived to keep their beer is a secret lost to us moderns4 ,in the thirteenth century the ,french had a better species of double beer1 which they called godale1 probably from the ,english words good ale1 or the ,frisian gut ael4 ,the wisest of men has said1 8,there is nothing new under the sun20 and a further illustration of the truth of this remark is afforded by the fact that1 even thus early1 the ,parisian brewers were accustomed to put spices1 bay-leaves1 and pitch1 into their beer to give it flavour4 ,the statutes of ,boileve1 exclusively meant for brewers1 say that these practices 8ne sont ne bonnes ne loyaux40 ,some there were who1 according to ,charles ,etienne1 added tares to the beer1 at the risk of rendering the beverage not only intoxicating1 but dangerous4 ,but1 as if to excuse this ,parisian practice1 the author adds1 8,the ,english mix in their beer sugar1 cinnamon1 and cloves1 and afterwards clarify it40 ,schookius1 who wrote in #affa1 tells us that it was the custom to salt the beer at ,minden1 in ,westphalia2 and that in ,flanders they added besides the hops1 the bay-leaf1 gentian1 sage1 lavender1 and clary1 which is after all a species of sage4 ,there was a more agreeable beer1 which was made sweeter with honey1 and which was much in vogue in ,france among the rich4 ,in ,germany no other beer was drunk1 and it became so popular in that country that it was forbidden to penitents1 excepting on the ,sunday1 because1 says the ,council of ,worms1 8it was too voluptuous a drink40 ,this sweeter beer prevailed in ,france till the end of the sixteenth century1 when liqueurs l'eau de vie became the rage4 ,the beer-brewers1 not wishing to be behindhand1 tried to make a species of liqueur out of their beer-vats4 ,they produced an article called l'ambre1 in which there was a decoction of coriander seeds1 and another la framboise2 but neither of these were successful4 ,the beer of ,cambrai was the best ,continental beer in the sixteenth century1 but it is beaten in the nineteenth by the brown beer of ,bavaria1 the white beer of ,berlin1 and the alembique of ,brussels4 ,it is in no respect wonderful that the inhabitant of the more northern regions should excel in this beverage the native of the sweet south4 ,the ,german1 the ,fleming1 the ,dutchman1 who drinks beer1 and beer only1 wishes it strong1 nourishing1 and malty2 the ,parisian1 on the contrary1 whose ordinary drink is wine1 and who resorts to beer as we do in warm weather to soda water1 pop1 and ginger-beer1 merely requires that the liquor shall be light1 brisk1 sparkling1 and agreeable4 ,i have no means of knowing the number of brewers in ,paris at present1 but there were forty #abj years ago1 who annually made about #ge1jjj muids of beer 7the muid is #cjj pints74 ,little more than seventy years ago there were but twenty-three brewers in ,paris1 of whom the revolutionary ,santerre was the most celebrated in the ,faubourg ,st4 ,antoine4 ,on the #ajth of ,august he became commandant of the ,national ,guard2 on the #aath of ,december1 he conducted ,louis ,,xvi4 to the bar of the ,national ,convention2 and on the #bast of ,january1 #agic1 he commanded with ,berryer the troops that were present at the execution of this unfortunate prince4 ,it was the brewer ,santerre who interrupted the monarch when he essayed to speak from the scaffold1 and who caused his sovereign's voice to be drowned by beat of drum4 ,santerre more than once showed the white feather1 as the epitaph written on him proves3 8,ci gt le ,gnral ,santerre1 ,qui n'avait de ,mars que la bierre40 ,that there are now as many brewers in ,paris as there were a century ago may be well doubted4 ,at the peace in #ahae1 a number of ,english and ,scotch brewers went over1 and entered into brewery speculations in ,paris and the provinces2 but the greater number of these were wholly ruined1 and repented1 when too late1 of their short-sighted imprudence4 ,in seasons of dearth1 the ,paris brewers were forbidden by ordonnance to make beer4 ,ordonnances of the ,prvt de ,paris appeared to this effect in #adae1 and again in #adhb4 ,an arrt of the council renewed this interdiction in #afic1 and two others of the parliament to a like effect appeared in #agji and #agdj4 ,illustration ,illustration ,,chapter ,,xx4 ,,on ,,wines1 ,,ancient ,,and ,,modern4 ,several treatises have been written on wine in most ,european countries4 ,lord ,bacon1 in the days of ,elizabeth1 did not disdain to give his attention to the subject2 and his ,italian contemporary1 ,andrea ,bacci1 the physician of the able ,sextus the ,fifth1 has given us probably the best history of wine in that rare and curious book1 8,de ,naturali ,vinorum ,historia40 ,about a century ago a ,sir ,edward ,barry1 then a physician at ,bath1 and afterwards state physician to the ,viceroy of ,ireland1 published his 8,observations1 ,historical1 ,critical1 and ,medical1 on the ,wines of the ,ancients2 and on the ,analogy between them and ,modern ,wines40 ,in consequence of the interest excited by the topic1 this work1 now somewhat rare1 acquired a certain repute1 but it does not now stand in the estimation it did half a century ago4 ,much that ,barry tells us of the ancient wines is borrowed from ,bacci2 and there is a great deal of useless disquisition mixed with some absurdity4 ,the late ,dr4 ,henderson1 a good judge of wine1 and who had some excellent wine in his cellar1 published his 8,history of ,ancient ,wines0 some seven or eight and thirty years ago1 in which there is a great deal of interesting and useful information4 ,this was followed by a 8,history and ,description of ,modern ,wines10 commenced by ,mr4 ,cyrus ,redding in #ahcb1 and published in #ahcc4 ,the work was so useful and successful that a second edition was called for in #ahce1 and published in #ahcf4cj ,from #ahcf to the past year there has not been anything very remarkable published in ,england on the subject of wines4 ,in the month of ,december last ,mr4 ,j4 ,g4 ,shaw published a work entitled1 8,wine1 the ,vine1 and the ,cellar10 and in ,january of the present year1 ,mr4 ,denman1 also a wine merchant1 published a work called the 8,wine and its ,fruit10 more especially in relation to the production of wine4 ,both of these works are well printed and illustrated1 but they really add little to what was before known on the subject by any one who has made wine his study4 ,barry tells us it was the reading of ,hippocrates as a professional duty which first led him to the consideration of the subject of wines4 ,hippocrates described the various qualities of wines1 and adapted vinous mixtures to different diseases and constitutions4 ,by lessening the proportion of water usually mixed with wine1 he made a powerful cordial2 as1 by increasing the water1 he obtained a cooling diluent4 ,it is impossible to deny that wine1 taken in moderation1 tends to strengthen and excite the spirits1 to cheer and comfort the languid1 and to refresh the toil-worn and exhausted4 ,the poets of ,greece and ,rome celebrate the praises of wine1 and1 as though the invention of the liquor were too transcendental to be human1 attribute it to the gods--to ,osiris1 ,saturn1 and ,bacchus4 ,anacreon calls the juice of the grape ambrosial2 and ,homer himself bestows on wine the epithet divine1 oo 4 ,plato1 while he would strictly restrain the use and severely censure excess in wine1 maintains with more than his usually persuasive power1 that nothing more excellent than the juice of the grape was ever granted by ,god to man4 ,it appears from the ancient historians that the rules for the culture and preparation of wine and grapes descended from the ,egyptians to the ,greeks1 who improved and perfected them1 and that the ,romans1 in turn1 became the scholars of the ,greeks4 ,as the soil of ,italy was favourable to the vine1 vineyards soon spread through the country4 ,italy became distinguished by the name of notria41 and the inhabitants were called notrii viri4 ,an infinity of wines were produced from the various species of grapes4 ,virgil1 who was as familiar with agriculture as he excelled in poetry1 says it would be as easy to enumerate the sands of the sea-shore as the different species of wine4 ,pliny carefully collected all that had been written before his time on the subject of the vine4 ,he describes the various species of the vitis1 and the mode and manner of making wines4 ,he enumerates the principal wines of ,asia1 ,greece1 and ,italy4 ,cato1 ,marcus1 ,varro1 and ,columella have also written on the culture of the vine and wine-making2 and it appears from the productions of these writers that they perfectly understood the racking off into fresh casks which had been previously impregnated with the vapour of sulphur4 ,out of these authors and ,palladius1 ,mr4 ,redding admits that an excellent treatise might be formed on the grape and its products2 though he states1 and truly1 that on the qualities and flavour of the ancient wines the moderns must be content to remain in ignorance4 ,we know1 for instance1 that the light and delicate ,setine1 was the favourite wine of ,augustus2 that it is commended by ,martial1 ,juvenal1 and ,silius ,italicus1 who pronounces it to be worthily reserved for ,bacchus himself1 8ipsius mensis seposta ,lyaci40 ,i am not1 however1 quite so sure as ,dr4 ,barry that it was the wine so much recommended by ,st4 ,paul to ,titus for strengthening the stomach4 8,it was grown10 says ,henderson1 8on the heights of ,sezza10 and though nota strong wine1 possessed sufficient firmness and permanence to undergo the operation of the fumarium2 for ,juvenal alludes to some which was so old that the smoke had obliterated the mark of the jar in which it was contained4 ,the process which these wines underwent in the fumarium gave to them a greater transparency and more early maturity4 ,this method had been long known to the ,greeks1 their being equivalent to the ,roman fumarium4 ,the ancients were perfect adepts in these methods of forcing wines1 and they used for the purpose plain and burnt salt1 bitter almonds1 the whites of eggs1 and particularly isinglass4 ,but when wines were more than usually foul1 they added sand1 or marble finely powdered4 ,salt water1 also1 was frequently used to depurate and preserve wine4 ,this discovery is said to have been owing to a slave's having drunk part of a cask of wine committed to his care and concealed the fraud with sea water2 the wine thus falsified was found to be superior to the wine of the same growth contained in the other casks4 ,the ,romans were but children in the art of adulteration1 when compared with the ,greeks4 ,palladius gives several receipts which were used by the ,greeks for improving the flavour1 colour1 and strength of their wines1 and likewise to give to new the qualities of old wine2 in one1 a mixture of hepatic aloes had a considerable share4 ,cato favours us also with a curious receipt for making an artificial ,chian wine with the ,falernian4 ,he directs that the sea-water should be taken up at a great distance from the land1 and that it should be kept in casks for some time before being used4 ,the ,ccuban wine is described as a generous1 strong-bodied wine1 which would keep1 but which would affect the head if taken in quantity3 in a word1 it was a heady liquor1 which the modern ,french would call1 as they do the vin de ,juranon1 8capiteux40 ,like most heady wines1 too1 it required long keeping ere it was ripe4 ,it was one of the favourite wines of ,horace1 and was generally reserved for important festivals3-- 8,antehac nefas depormere ,ccubum ,cellis avitis40 ,the far-famed ,falernian was grown about the bases of hills4 ,galen observes that were two sorts of ,falernian1 the dry and the sweetish4 ,the latter was only produced when the wind continued in the south during the vintage4 ,martial dignifies ,falernian with the epithet immortal3-- 8,addere quid cessas1 puer1 immortale ,falernum80 ,but1 although the name of the ,falernian be familiar in our mouths as 8household words10 nothing is known of its taste1 flavour1 or colour4 ,it is1 however1 described as a strong wine1 that would keep long1 and so rough1 that it required to be cellared a great number of years before it was sufficiently mellow4 ,the wines of the ,mons ,falernus1 however1 always preserved a superior character4 ,tibullus places them under the superintending care of ,bacchus4 ,silius ,italicus gives them a preference over the ,asiatic and ,greek wines2 and ,virgil1 in bestowing smooth1 flowing praises on the vinum ,rhticum1 says1 it must1 nevertheless1 yield the palm to the ,falernian4 ,among the lighter wines of the ,roman territory1 the ,sabinum1 ,nomentanum1 and ,venafrum1 were among the most popular4 8,the first10 says ,henderson1 8was a thin table wine1 of a reddish colour1 attaining its maturity in seven years4 ,the ,nomentanum1 a delicate claret wine1 is described as coming to perfection in five or six years40 ,among the ,sicilian wines1 the ,mamertinum1 which came from the neighbourhood of ,messina1 and is said to have been first introduced at public entertainments by ,julius ,csar1 was light and astringent4 ,the ,greeks were fonder of wine than the ,romans1 and were supplied with a greater variety4 ,among the earliest of the ,greek wines1 of which we have any distinct account is the ,maronean1 8probably10 says ,henderson1 8the production of ,ismaurus1 near the mouth of the ,hebrus1 where ,ulysses received the supply which he carried with him on his voyage to the land of the ,cyclops4 ,the ,maronean was a black1 sweet wine1 and from the manner in which ,homer sings its virtues1 the quality must have been indeed superior4 ,the ,pramnian a red1 but not a sweet wine1 of equal antiquity4 ,it was a potent and durable liquor1 and must have somewhat resembled port4 ,it was1 however1 in the luscious1 sweet wines that the ,greeks surpassed their neighbours4 ,these wines were the products of the islands of the ,ionian and the gean ,seas1 where the exquisite climate and a suitable soil gave to the fruit a peculiar flavour and excellence4 ,lesbos1 ,chios1 and ,thasos1 seems1 according to ,henderson1 to have contended for the superiority2 but several of the other islands1 such as ,corcyra1 ,cyprus1 ,crete1 ,cnidos1 and ,rhodes1 yielded wines which were much esteemed for their sweetness and delicacy4 ,the ,thasian and some of the ,cretan wines were peculiarly fragrant4 ,athenus calls the former 40 ,the ,greeks1 gourmets as they were1 did not confine themselves to the indigenous growths4 ,they were familiar with the produce of the ,african and ,asiatic wines1 of which several enjoyed a high reputation4 ,they drank of the white wines of ,mareotis and ,taenia1 in ,lower ,egypt2 of the wine of ,antylla1 the produce of the vicinity of ,alexandria2 of the sweet wine of ,lydia1 in ,asia ,minor2 of the ,scybellites1 so called from the place of its growth in ,galatia1 also in ,asia ,minor4 ,the ,greeks1 like the ,romans1 drank all their wines1 especially those of the stronger kind1 very largely diluted with water1 for their common drink4 ,plutarch has mentioned three different kinds of mixtures4 ,the 1 or five1 consisted of three parts of water and two of pure wine2 and the 1 or three1 of two parts of water and one of wine2 the fourth consisted of three parts of water1 and one of wine4 ,athenus mentions a mixture called 1 which consisted of five parts of pure wine and two of water4 ,the recent ,greek wines1 which were meant for more immediate use1 were kept in goat-skins4 ,but1 even in ,homer's time the ,greeks were well acquainted with the art of preserving their best and stronger wines in wooden casks1 or hogsheads 7which he calls 71 until they had attained a proper maturity4 ,as to the ,gauls1 it is certain that1 six centuries before ,christianity was introduced1 they knew the use of wine2 for1 when the ,phocans came to found ,marseilles1 ,petta1 the daughter of a king of the country1 presented1 according to ,athenus1 to ,euxenes their chief1 a cup filled with wine and water4 ,but who first planted the vine in ,gaul1 and who first cultivated it there8 ,it would be difficult to answer these questions4 ,according to ,justin and ,strabo1 it appears that the ,phocans were not only the first to introduce the vine among the ,gauls1 but the first to learn them to cut and cultivate it4 ,pliny1 on the other hand1 says it was a person named ,elicoa1 who1 having made some money at ,rome1 and wishing to return to his country1 carrying with him wine and dried fruits1 sold them to the inhabitants1 exhorting them to the conquest of the flowing1 fruitful land that produced such liquor4 ,cicero tells us1 that one of the most lucrative of commercial transactions among the ,gauls was the exportation of their wine to ,italy4 ,columella counts these wines among the number rendered necessary for consumption in ,rome1--8,nobis e transmarinis provinciis advehitur frumentum1 ne fame laboremus2 et vindemias condimus ex insulus ,cycladibus1 ac regionibus ,beticis ,gallicisque40 ,diodorus ,siculus1 however1 maintains that it was the ,italian wines that were consumed in ,gaul1 and states the ,ultramontane dealers who carried them gained immense sums in this commerce4 ,possidonius1 an author contemporary with ,diodorus and ,cicero1 and who had travelled in ,gaul1 is cited by ,athenus to prove that it was only the richest of the nation that drank wine1 which they imported from ,italy or the territory of ,marseilles4 ,there is some reason to believe that the vineyards of ,burgundy are as old as the ,antonines4 ,in the beginning of the fourth century1 the orator ,eumenius speaks of the vines in the territory of ,autun1 which were decayed through age1 and the first plantation of which was totally unknown4 ,the ,pagus ,arebrignus is supposed by ,m4 d',anville to be the district of ,beaune1 celebrated now for a fine growth of ,burgundy4 ,when the ,romans had submitted that portion of ,gaul to their arms which is called ,provence1 the ,roman colonists in ,dauphin1 ,provence1 and a part of ,languedoc1 extended vine-plantations4 ,soon they spread far and wide1 and1 in the time of ,csar1 many provinces were in possession of vines1 as ,strabo1 ,varro1 and ,csar himself1 testify4 ,among the excellent grapes peculiar to ,gaul1 ,columella numbers those of the ,bituriges2 but1 as this name was common both to the people of ,berry and of the ,bordelais1 it is difficult to divine to which of the provinces the praise of the ,latin author properly applies4 ,the probability1 however1 is1 that it refers to the ,bordelais2 for ,ausonius1 who lived in the fourth century of the ,christian era1 loudly boasts of the wine of ,bordeaux4 ,the mode of training the vine in ,gaul consisted in intertwining the branches amongst each other1 which differed essentially from the ,roman system4 ,the ancient ,gaulish practice subsists to this day in ,provence1 in ,languedoc1 in ,bearn1 and in the eastern portion of ,dauphin4 ,the ,gauls1 who manured their fields with marl1 used ashes as a compost for the roots of their vines4 ,marseilles1 says ,pliny1 produces a rich1 thick wine1 which has two flavours1 and serves to mix with other wines4 ,it is difficult1 he continues1 to pronounce on the merits of the wines of ,narbonne1 because the wine-makers1 with a view to change their taste and colour1 adulterate them1 mix them with herbs and noxious drugs1 even with aloes4 ,these tricks were in ,italy reduced to a trade1 and the wine-doctors were called ,conditura vinorum4 ,but notwithstanding these faults1 writes ,athenus1 the wine of ,marseilles was good1 and possessed1 above all1 the quality of ripening other wines when mixed with them4 ,the ,narbonnese were not the only adulterators4 ,the ,allobroges1 a people of ,dauphin1 had a particular pitch which they mixed with their wine4 ,if we are to believe ,dioscorides1 the infusion of pitch was a necessary ingredient in the ,gaulish wines2 otherwise1 says he1 they would have soured1 the climate not being warm enough to ripen the grape4 ,the reason assigned by ,dioscorides would prove either that the climate of ,gaul was then really colder than it is now1 or that the art of making wine was still in its infancy4 ,excellent wine is now made in provinces more northward than ,dauphin1 and still better in the north of ,france1 and the countries bathed by the waters of the ,moselle and the ,rhine4 ,no doubt1 innocent means may be employed in cold years1 without any risk1 to give to the wine a quality which it wants4 ,for a long while the ,champenois have been in the habit of smoking their casks with sulphur before using them4 ,the ,abb ,rozier1 in a ,memoir upon the best manner of making the wines of ,provence1 proposes1 when the wine is austere or acid1 to dilute honey in the must before it ferments4 ,m4 de ,prefontaine1 in the 8,maison ,rustique de ,cayenne10 published in #agfc1 speaking of the grapes produced in that island1 says that if they were to be used for the purpose of making wine1 their natural tartness might be corrected by adding a little sugar4 ,but this practice had been long previously secretly followed in that portion of the ,bordelais traversed by the ,dordogne1 whose principal towns are ,bergerac and ,st4 ,foi4 ,at the commencement of the last century the wines of this province suddenly acquired such a renown1 that there were proprietors who1 in a few years1 quadrupled the price4 ,the neighbouring proprietors suspected there was something wrong1 some secret they could not fathom4 ,they watched for a long while1 and at length discovered that immense quantities of sugar arrived in the night4 ,this discovery at first led to nothing2 but1 in the end a cooper1 who knew the secret1 having been dismissed from an establishment in which he had been employed1 revealed the secret in order to revenge himself4 ,only five or six families profited by the man's treason4 ,they took good care to keep the profit to themselves1 till a ,m4 ,vaucocour published a letter1 in which he disclosed the receipt1 which consisted in reducing the sugar to a syrup1 and then in aromatising it with peach-flowers or the like4 ,the ,marseillais had1 in the olden time1 another method4 ,this was to boil and smoke their wines in order to thicken them1 and to give them the appearance and flavour of old wines3-- 8,improba ,massili quidquid fumaria cogunt1 ,accipit tatem quisquis ab igne cadus40 ,the ,romans were also in the habit of smoking their wines4 ,the proof is recorded in ,horace3-- 8,amphor fumum bibere institut40 ,tibullus also alludes to it3-- 8,nunc mihi fumosos veteris proferte ,falernos ,consulis40 ,baccius1 in his work1 8,de ,naturali ,vinorum ,historia10 speaking of the wines in ,alsace1 says that they were kept exposed to the smoke in hot chambers1 where they became so thick that they were no longer drinkable1 unless they were beaten with twigs or diluted with hot water4 ,the following are his words3--8,super fumo diu et in stuariis retenta1 eam acquirunt vetustate crassitiem1 ut potari per se non possint1 nisi diu agitata immissis scopis aut origis dissolvantur1 vel eliquata per aquam calidam fiant potui idonea3 quo usu legimus crassa fuisse antiquis vina1 qu similiter per aquam calidam essent dissolvenda40 ,since the discoveries made at ,herculaneum and ,pompeii1 there have been found among the ruins one of the vases which served for the operation of which ,i speak1 and in which the wine had entirely dried4 ,a similar vase or urn has been discovered in the territory of ,vienne1 in which the inspissated juice of the wine had crystallized4 ,whatever were the processes employed in ,gaul for the preparation of wine1 many of its vineyards had acquired reputation1 and had1 moreover1 become a source of wealth4 ,this rising spring of riches was soon dried up by the tyrants who reigned over the country4 ,the year of the ,christian era #ib having been unpropitious to corn and favourable to the vine1 a general scarcity followed4 ,domitian1 who was then emperor1 concluded that the cause of this was1 that the vines were too numerous1 and corn not sufficiently sown4 ,proceeding on this false assumption1 he published an edict1 by which he ordered that in the greatest part of the provinces of the empire half of the vines should be rooted out1 and that in the others they should be entirely destroyed4 ,towards the year #bhb1 ,probus abrogated it4 ,after having1 by his victories1 restored peace to the empire1 the wise and valiant emperor1 says ,aurelius ,victor1 ,eutropius1 ,vopiscus1 and ,eusebius1 restored to the provinces the liberty of replanting the vine4 ,the ,gauls commenced the task with alacrity4 ,the ,roman legions spread abroad in ,gaul were employed in these plantations1 for it was the wise policy of ,rome1 when her soldiers were not engaged in war1 to occupy them in useful public labours4 ,soon were the greater number of the hills of ,gaul covered with vines2 and these were not1 as in the times of the two first ,csars1 bounded by the north of the ,cevennes2 for almost each province1 on the contrary1 had its vineyards4 ,in the ,salique law1 as well as in the law of the ,visigoths1 penalties are decreed against those who shall destroy a cutting of the vine1 or who shall steal grapes4 ,the protection which the government accorded to this species of property caused it to be regarded as sacred4 ,chilperic having decreed that each vine-proprietor should annually furnish him with an amphora of wine for his table1 there was1 says ,aimoin1 a revolt in ,limousin1 and the officer whose duty it was to receive this odious tribute was massacred4 ,so great had the passion for the vine become that the ,french kings turned a portion of their private domains into vineyards4 ,each of their palaces had its vineries1 with wine-presses and all the utensils necessary for the vintage4 ,from the ,capitularies of ,charlemagne we learn that the monarch entered into this species of administration in the minutest detail4 ,when1 after the death of ,louis the ,dbonnaire1 the three sons of that prince1 laying down their arms1 agreed on the division of his estates1 ,charles the ,bald had ,western ,france2 ,lothaire1 ,eastern ,france and ,italy2 and ,louis1 that portion which was situated in ,germany beyond the ,rhine4 ,but as this latter had no vineyards1 the ,saxon ,chronicle and the ,chronicle of the monk ,sigebert remark that there were joined to his division some towns or villages beyond the river which produced wine4 ,the ,louvre itself1 like the other royal palaces of ,france1 inclosed vineyards within its precincts4 ,that such vineyards were considerable appears from the fact that in #aafj ,louis le ,jeune could annually assign out of their produce six muids of wine to the curate of ,st4 ,nicholas4 ,among the 8,fabliaux of the ,thirteenth ,century10 published by ,le ,grand1 there is one entitled 8,la ,bataille des ,vins10 in which the author supposes that the ,king1 ,philip ,augustus1 causes to be brought to his table all known wines1 national as well as foreign1 in order to examine which are worthy of admission4 ,the monarch is in this piece represented as a confirmed gourmet1 and lover of good wine4 ,from an account of the revenues of this king1 left us by ,brussel1 we learn that in the matter of wines ,philip loved variety1 and wished to have a copious cellar1 for he possessed vineyards at ,bourges1 at ,soissons1 at ,compiegne1 at ,ln1 at ,beauvais1 at ,auxerre1 ,corbeil1 ,betesi1 ,orleans1 ,moret1 ,poissi1 ,gien1 ,anet1 ,chalevanc1 ,verberies1 ,fontainbleau1 ,rurecourt1 ,milli1 ,bois ,commun1 ,samoi1 and ,auvers4 ,breton1 in his ,latin poem on ,philip1 counts the wines of ,gascony and ,la ,rochelle among the articles of commerce which ,flanders took of ,france4 ,the wines of ,guyenne were not only sold in ,flanders1 but in much greater quantity in ,england4 ,the same political considerations which induced us to close our ports twenty years ago to ,french wines unless on the payment of a very considerable import duty1 caused us then to open them to the wines of a province subject to ,english authority4 ,matthew ,paris1 speaking of the discontent and bitterness which prevailed in ,gascony in #abea against ,henry ,,iii41 states that public opinion was so exasperated1 that these provinces would have revolted had they not need of ,england for the sale of their wine4 ,a fact related by ,froissart will give us an idea of the extent of the trade at that time4 8,in #acgb10 says this historian1 8there arrived from ,england1 at ,bordeaux1 #bji sail of merchantmen1 which came for wine40 ,champier1 who wrote about a century and a half after ,froissart1 remarks1 that from his time ,england scarcely consumed any other wine or corn than that of ,france1 and that1 when this commerce was interrupted by war1 ,england experienced a species of famine4 8,so that10 said he1 8,france may boast of having in her hands power of producing famine or abundance in ,england40 ,although the other ,french provinces had not such advantageous outlets for their commerce as ,guyenne1 the vine was1 nevertheless1 cultivated with an equal success4 ,this may be seen by the 8,fabliaux0 cited1 in which the ,french wines dispute the preference with foreign4 ,these effects were solely brought about by the national industry2 the government did nothing to recompense or favour it1 and when it did concern itself about the ,french wine-trade its interference was injurious4 ,the kingdom having experienced a scarcity1 in consequence of the bad harvest of #aeff1 ,charles ,,ix4 wrongly attributed the cause to the too great abundance of vines1 and1 like ,domitian1 proscribed them4 ,an ordonnance published by him directed that in each canton1 or district1 the vines should only occupy a third of the ground2 the other two-thirds were to be converted into arable or pasture lands4 ,in #aegg ,henry ,,iii4 modified the ordonnance of the king his brother1 recommending to all the officers charged with the government of his provinces to see that the arable land was not left uncultivated to give place to an excessive plantation of the vine4 ,the edict published under the reign of ,louis ,,xv4 was not so foolish as the preceding one4 ,many intendants of provinces having represented that the vines occupied an undue space of lands fitted for corn or pasturage2 that it caused the dearness of wood2 that it multiplied the quantity of wine to such an excess that the value and reputation were in a number of places destroyed2 the king1 in #agca1 forbade any new plantation of vines1 and directed that vineyards which had ceased to be cultivated for two years should no longer be continued4 ,it often happened that proprietors of wines1 not being able to get rid of their article1 preferred to sell it in retail4 ,in this contingency they suspended to the threshold of their door a broom1 a crown of ivy1 or something similar4 ,those who wished to purchase carried a pot with them1 and thence came the expression1 vendre pot4 ,some caused their wine to be announced by the public crier4 ,it will appear from what ,i have written that the attention paid to vine-dressing and the cultivation of the vine was the result of a perfect knowledge of husbandry4 ,i have already said that the wines of the ancients were racked and fined1 but there seems to have been as much adulteration #ahjj years ago as at the present moment4 ,adulterations are repeatedly mentioned in the classic writers4 ,after the wine was made and underwent the secondary fermentation1 it was placed in pitched skins1 or in earthen vessels1 denominated amphor1 containing twenty-seven old ,english gallons4 ,that the ancients understood the process of maturing wines perfectly is evident from all the writers on the subject4 ,after the wine was made and put into the vat1 where it underwent the secondary fermentation1 it was placed in pitched skins1 closed with a lid of baked earth1 and hermetically sealed4#ca ,it were a curious task to trace how long domestic customs and utensils survive forms of polity and government4 ,in glancing at such a subject1 ,i merely remark that the amphor have outlived the ,roman emperors1 the republic1 nay even the ,roman nation and people1 and all their magnificent institutions4 ,it is impossible now to pass forty-eight hours in the neighbourhood of ,asti ,montepulciano1 ,montefiascone1 or any of the wine districts of ,italy1 without being struck with the identity to the amphor of those earthen vessels with two handles1 holding from about eighteen to twenty quarts of our measure1 which one sees in every cellar1 and almost in every street4 ,suetonius tells us of a man who aspired to the qustorship1 and drank the contents of a whole amphora at a repast given by the ,emperor ,tiberius1 8,ob epotam in convivo propinante se vini amphoram20 but1 though there may be men in ,scotland1 or ,scotchmen in ,england1 who could carry away so much liquor and be none the worse for it1 the capacity of any ,englishman to do as much may be doubted4 ,the use of casks or wine hogsheads were unknown to the ,greeks and ,romans4#cb ,they could therefore only transport their wines in earthen vessels or skins1 which in the older ,english authors are queerly and alliteratively called 8borachio bottles40 ,the earthen vessels presented the inconvenience of being fragile1 whilst the skins were subject to bursting1 to become insecure1 c4 ,my late excellent and learned friend ,dr4 ,henderson states1 and truly1 that the ,romans occasionally employed glass4 ,they undoubtedly did so2 but the accomplished historian of wines is wrong when he affirms that they brought the manufacture of glass to a great degree of perfection2 for nothing1 on the contrary1 can be more common than those specimens of glass found in ,pompeii1 and those drinking-cups and lachrymatories1 various specimens of which may be seen in the ,museo ,borbonico at ,naples4 ,that glass1 however1 was used at table in those days appears certain from a passage in which he speaks of those glass magnums or jugs1 as being large and closed with a species of plaster or ,roman cement4 8,adlat sunt amphor vitre diligenter gypsat40 ,he elsewhere says1 8,amphoras copiosas gypsatas ne effluat vinum40 ,all the ,latin authors agree that the ingenious invention of casks is due to the ,gauls1 who established themselves along the banks of the ,po2 but we are entirely ignorant if the ,greeks knew the cooper's art before they left their native country1 or if they invented casks and hogsheads after their transmigration beyond the ,alps4 ,notwithstanding the incontestable superiority of casks over skins1 these latter continued to be still used4 ,that they were much in vogue would appear from one of the capitularies of ,charlemagne1 in which1 glancing at the prevalence of skins1 he forbids his people to use any other vessels than good barrels 7bonos barridos7 hooped with iron4 ,at the ,roman entertainments there was a particular part of the convivial room set apart for the reception of the wines4 ,here the various vessels and drinking-cups were ranged on a table called 1 or abacus4 ,this was generally of marble1 in the form of a long square1 not unlike the modern sideboard4 ,from the account which ,philo ,judus gives of the number of vessels placed on it1 it must have been very large4 ,pliny1 speaking of the rich spoils exhibited by ,pompey in the triumph he obtained for his victories over the pirates1 says that the number of drinking vessels adorned with jewels was sufficient to furnish nine abaci3 8,triumpho quem de piratis ,asia1 ,ponto1 egit1 transtulit lectos tridiniares tres2 vasa ex auro et gemmis abacorum novem40#cc ,cicero charges ,verres with having plundered the abaci1 8,ab hoc iste abaci vasa omnia ut exposita fuerant abstulit10 and ,dr4 ,barry1 in giving this quotation1 misquotes it1 8,in abacis erant abstulit40 ,these articles of luxury1 according to ,livy1 were imported from ,asia first as luxuries1 but soon1 like all other superfluous wants1 they became necessaries4 ,the ancients had1 like the moderns1 servants like our butlers1 specially charged with the care of the wine4 ,the office necessarily required judgment and experience4 ,the head butler is called by ,pollux 4 ,his business was to inspect the wines before and after they had been prepared1 and mixed in another apartment4 ,when they were placed on the abacus1 he stood there as a modern butler or matre d'htel does at our side-boards1 and gave his orders to the underlings and slaves4 ,the next in office under the butler was the pinceran or 1 which we should render as the pourer out of wine1 or cup-bearer1 the word being used in this sense both by ,homer and ,xenophon4 ,this man received all his directions from the butler1 and by him and his acolytes the wines were regularly prepared and distributed to the guests4 ,of these inferior ministering agents there were many1 and of different degrees4 ,it was a part of the luxury of the times to be waited on by beautiful boys1 purchased at high prices1 who served the master and the superior guests2 but the inferior ones and those of meaner condition were served by ,african slaves of coarse appearance1 woolly-headed1 and of most unsavoury odour4 ,notwithstanding the number of servants and slaves1 many mistakes unavoidably happened in the mixture of wine4 ,nor is this wonderful when it is considered that the host and his guests called for wine variously diluted either with hot or cold water1 and occasionally for whatever strong wine was agreeable to them4 ,cicero1 describing a supper1 alludes to the symposium of ,xenophon1 where the wines were prepared by hot water and afterwards cooled in snow3 8,et pocula sicut in symposio ,xenophontis minuta atque rorantia et refrigeratio in state1 et vicissim aut sol1 aut ignis hibernus40 ,of the quantity of wine drank on these occasions we have no very certain account4 ,pliny says that ,democritus wrote a volume to prove that no one ought to exceed the fourth or sixth glass2 but instances have been given of persons who have drunk a congius or gallon in one draught4 ,there are many who think that the cooling of wine by snow is a modern invention2 but that this system was perfectly known to the ,greeks and ,romans1 as ,i before observed1 is sufficiently evident4 ,the vessels which contained the wine mixed with boiled water were immersed in the snow1 and such wine is particularly distinguished by ,martial4 ,this invention is ascribed by ,pliny to ,nero1 who prided himself more on this improvement in luxury than ,augustus did in encouraging the fine arts4 ,it was a common practice at the convivial meetings of the ,greeks and ,romans to drink1 not only to the healths of distinguished individuals1 but to the absent friends and mistresses of the guests4 ,the greater or less number of cups afforded an indication of the respect in which the person whose health was toasted was held4 ,the numerous coincidences which exist between the convivial customs of past ages and the present are thus succinctly summed up by ,dr4 ,henderson3--8,if we compare the ceremonies and usages of the ,romans with the convivial customs of the present day1 we cannot but be struck with the numerous coincidences which subsist between them4 ,the arrangements of our dinners1 the succession and composition of the different courses1 the manner of filling our glasses1 of pledging our friends1 and of drinking particular healths1 are all evidently copied from the ,greeks and ,romans4#cd ,with another modern nation1 however1 which has been thought to resemble the ancient ,greeks in character1 the analogy is still more complete4 ,thus1 at all entertainments among the ,french1 the ordinary wine is used with a large admixture of water1 generally in the proportion of one to three1 except immediately after soup1 when it is drunk pure4 ,the finer kinds are circulated in the intervals between the courses1 or towards the end of the repast1 and hence are termed vins d'entremets2 but with particular dishes certain wines are served1 as chablis with oysters1 and sillery after roast meat4 ,the coup-d'avant of vermuth has been already noticed as corresponding with the draught of mulsum2 and the coup du milieu1 which consists of some liqueur1 #8quod fluentem nauseam coerceat1' may be regarded as identical with the cup of sweet wine handed round in the middle of a ,grecian feast4 ,with dessert the luscious sweet wines are always introduced40 ,the doctor makes a slight mistake in regarding the coup du milieu as identical with the cup of ,greek sweet wine4 ,the coup1 which was drunk immediately after the roast1 consisted1 and still consists1 of a bitter or spirituous1 or sometimes a bitter and spirituous cordial 7and not of a sweet wine71 taken as a stomachic4 ,it is swallowed1 according to the 8,manuel des ,amphitryons10 to give tone to the fibres of the stomach1 and 8pour acclrer le mouvement pristaltique qui produit la digestion40 ,the ,swiss extract of wormwood1 ,jamaica rum1 or very old cognac1 is used for the purpose4 ,it is to the city of ,bordeaux1 so dear to gourmands and gourmets1 that this invention is due4 ,it is a trait of genius1 says the author of the 8,almanach des ,gourmands10 which enables one to make a second dinner1 and which doubles the power and capacity of the weakest stomachs4 ,between the roast and the entremets--i4e41 towards the middle of the dinner1 you see at ,bordeaux the doors of the dining-room open1 when a girl about eighteen1 tall1 fair1 and well-proportioned1 her features beaming with an air of engaging alluringness1 appears4 ,her sleeves are turned up to the very shoulders1 and she holds in one hand a mahogany frame1 in which are ranged as many small glasses as there are guests2 and in the other a crystal decanter filled with ,jamaica rum1 or wormwood1 or vermuth1 though this latter beverage more properly belongs to the coup-d'avant4 ,thus armed the ,hebe makes the round of the table1 and pours out to each guest a glass of the bitter nectar it is her business to distribute4 ,the effect of the coup du milieu is stated to be almost magical in renewing the appetite1 but on what principle it produces this result physicians must determine4 ,the coup-d'avant is little practised in ,paris1 though greatly used in ,russia1 ,sweden1 and the north of ,germany4 ,it consists of a large glass of vermuth1 or of simple brandy1 which is presented to each of the guests by way of appetiser4 ,physicians differ in opinion as to the virtues of the coup-d'avant3 it is said rather to dispose the stomach to digestion2 but1 be this as it may1 the ,russian stomachs1 where the coup-d'avant is so much practised1 are far more vigorous than the ,english or ,french4 ,it may be that from the effects of the climate some such stimulant is required4 ,the coup-d'aprs consists1 as ,dr4 ,henderson states1 of half a glass of pure wine taken immediately after the soup4 ,this is considered so salutary a practice1 that it is proverbially said to take a crown out of the pocket of the physician4 ,the wine offered for the coup-d'aprs in ,france is generally a good ,beaune or ,macon2 whilst in ,england it is commonly sherry or ,madeira4 ,in any event it should be a good sound wine2 for the palate1 at that early stage of a dinner1 is most sensible to taste and flavour4 ,as to the wine-cellars of the ancients1 we know little certain4 ,vitruvius directs that they should have a northern aspect1 that the doors and windows should be placed in the same direction1 that the doors should be small and seldom opened1 and then to renew1 not to alter1 the temperature of the air4 ,care was also taken that the cellar should not be near a dung-heap1 nor roots of trees1 nor vegetables1 nor anything fetid2 and it was also as far removed as possible from the vicinage of baths1 ovens1 sewers1 cisterns1 and reservoirs4 ,women were also strictly forbidden to enter within the cellar walls4 ,barry would have it that the ,greeks and ,romans had extended vaults under ground1 but against this theory ,henderson cites ,pancirollus1 who is of opinion that the ancients were not in the practice of having repositories of wine under ground like our modern cellars4 ,that their repositories for wine must have been extensive there is no doubt1 for it is stated that ,hortensius bequeathed to his heirs #aj1jjj cadi of wine1 about #daj tons of our measure4 ,from the rules of the ancients1 and the principles laid down1 ,barry properly points out certain defects in our modern wine-cellars in the following passages3-- 8,the size of the cellar ought to be in proportion to the quantity of wine for which it is designed2 and it is more easy to defend a small cellar from the admission of a greater quantity of the external air1 and to renew it occasionally1 than one of a larger size4 ,the situation ought to be low and dry2 therefore1 not on any great declivity1 where the undercurrents from the superior ground must always keep it moist1 and infect the air with its putrid exhalations2 this communication1 however1 may be prevented by intermediate trenches4 8,a small anti-cellar built before all large cellars would be a considerable defence and improvement to them1 in which a quantity of wine sufficient for a few days may be kept1 and the necessity prevented of more frequently opening the large cellar1 and admitting the external air1 which must always in some degree alter the temperature of it1 and in sudden or continued great heats or frosts1 may be particularly injurious to the wine4 8,it is usual to cover the bottles in the bins with sawdust1 to which ,i should prefer dry sand1 the density of which is much greater4 ,i saw a remarkable instance of the benefit arising from an intermediate defence of this kind4 ,a hogshead of claret1 which had been lately bottled1 was heaped up in a corner of a merchant's common large cellar1 with a view of removing it soon to the wine-cellar4 ,in the meantime a load of salt1 from the want of a more convenient place1 was thrown on the bottles1 and remained there several months before it was removed4 ,this wine was afterwards found to be much superior to the wine of the same growth1 which had been imported and bottled about the same time1 and had been immediately placed in the wine-cellar4 ,the large quantity of salt formed a compact vault over the bottles1 which entirely defended the wine from the influence of the air1 though greatly exposed to it2 and probably the coldness of the salt contributed to this improvement4 8,the ancients certainly more effectually preserved their wine in larger earthen vessels1 pitched externally1 than we can in our bottles1 as they are more capable1 from their superior density and capacity1 of resisting the frequent changes in the air2 and it is a common observation1 that the wine received into bottles which contain two quarts proves better than that which has been kept in single quarts40 ,of the truth of this latter remark there can be no doubt1 as any who have tasted a pint and a quart bottle of wine out of the same hogshead will freely admit4 ,it is no doubt true that many of the usages adopted by the ancients for preserving and mellowing their wines have fallen into disrepute2 but their rules for the site and construction of a wine-cellar--some of which ,i have quoted--their observations on the proper time for tasting and racking wines1 are still sanctioned by modern practice4 ,wine of a middle age was then1 according to ,pliny1 as indeed it now is1 to be preferred1 as being the most wholesome and grateful2 but then in ancient times it was the fashion1 as it is in our own day1 to place the greatest value on what was rarest4 ,thus extravagant sums were given for wines not drinkable1 or in a state of decomposition4 ,who does not know that within the past forty years twelve guineas a dozen was given for ,mr4 ,pattle's sherry1 and half as much for some sherry once the property of the late ,sir ,john ,leach1 ,vice-,chancellor4 ,though the ancients often drank very freely1 yet no one was obliged to drink on compulsion4 ,the doors were never locked1 as they were fifty years ago in ,ireland1 five and fifty years ago in ,scotland1 or little more than half a century ago in ,england4 ,large cups and more generous wines were frequently brought in1 but no one was obliged to drink or to stay4 ,if the guest did not drink on he departed1 according to the old convivial rule1 8,aut bibe1 aut abi40 ,some of the wisest sages of antiquity were as great sponges as some of the modern ,scots4 ,for instance1 ,socrates1 whether he lived abstemiously or drank copiously1 was equally unexcited1 equally unaltered2 and the very same remark might be made on a remarkable man lately deceased4 ,cyrus1 among other reasons which he urges why he should gain the crown in preference to his elder brother1 insists on his being able to drink a larger quantity of wine without being inebriated2 for ,artaxerxes was not only occasionally subject to getting 8right royal10 vulgo vocato1 drunk1 but also to the infirmity of losing his temper to boot4 ,athenus mentions that ,darius desired no greater encomium should be engraved on his tomb than that he was able to drink a great quantity of wine without being inebriated4 ,in his third book the ,father of ,medicine gives a description of the general qualities and strength of the ,greek wines1 and of the peculiar medical virtues which they possessed4 ,he likewise points out in what diseases1 and in what quantities1 they are to be used1 so as to render them salutary and innoxious4 ,it is remarkable that ,hippocrates rarely directs water alone1 but almost invariably orders its exhibition with wine1 or combined with honey and vinegar4 ,water was no doubt the basis of all his cooling drinks2 but there was always added to it a moderate proportion of the weak white wines1 to render it more effectually diluting4 ,to the infirm and valetudinarian1 wine is a necessary comfort beyond all price4 ,when a patient has been long habituated to the use of it1 a change in diet cannot be suffered without danger4 ,there is a remarkable instance of this afforded in the case of the celebrated physician ,cornaro1 who always revived just after the vintage1 when he left off the old and decaying wines of the last vintage1 and commenced drinking the new4 ,the passage is in the account which he gives of the rules by which he repaired his constitution1 injured as it was by excesses1 till the period when he was forty years old4 ,by the rgime he prescribed to himself1 it is well known he preserved his health and spirits to the age of #ajj4 ,the efficacy of his system depended on his taking a certain quantity of solids and fluids every day4 ,the fluid consisted entirely of wine1 but he gradually diminished the quantity of each as he advanced in years4 ,during this period he enjoyed an equal state of health1 except that sometimes1 before the vintage returned and the new wine was made1 he quickly became so weak and languid that his physicians declared he could not possibly continue to survive many days in that declining state4 8,but on the return of the vintage10 says he1 8and on taking the same quantity of new wine1 ,i very quickly recovered my usual strength and spirits40 ,the same effect is observed1 to compare animals with men1 among the mules of ,jamaica4 ,when the new sugar-canes are being gathered in1 the most exhausted animal1 fed on the fresh sugar-canes1 gains a revival of strength4 ,the ,romans were in the habit of pitching their wine1 nor can it be doubted that the ,gauls also followed their example in this respect1 with a view to render them more saleable in the ,italian markets4 ,the ,allobroges had a peculiar pitch1 with which they smeared their puncheons1 after the manner of the wine-growers of ,latium4 ,many etymologists suggest that the ,french word poinon1 adopted in many of the ,french provinces to signify a puncheon common to them1 is derived from the vas piceum1 of which it is an abbreviation4#ce ,these1 however1 are but conjectures1 and why should we resort to conjectures in the face of formal proof8 ,such were the two charters of ,charles the ,bald in favour of the monasteries of ,st4 ,denis and ,st4 ,germain des ,prs4 ,by the first 7,a4,d4 #hfb71 the emperor makes an annual grant to the abbey of ten silver livres1 for the purchase of the necessary pitch for casks2 by the second he grants to the other convent twenty pounds of soap and of pitch1 8ad vasa vinaria componenda40 ,the soap1 of which a grant is here made with the pitch1 leads me to infer that there were persons who1 not content with laying a coat of pitch on their casks1 composed a peculiar mastic in mixing the soap and some other substance with the pitch1 after the manner of the ,romans4 ,strabo1 in giving a description of ,latium 7the modern ,lombardy71 and an idea of the abundance of its vines1 says that the puncheons were taller than the houses4 ,it is probable that the ,gauls established in these parts1 or their descendants1 seeing that the ordinary casks were insufficient1 or that there was not cellar-room for them1 invented those monster puncheons of which the geographer speaks1 and which were long ago1 and are now1 in common use in ,germany4 ,but the ,french1 for the most part1 in lieu of these not very solid vessels1 preferred to construct their wine-tubs or vats1 in brick or in stone4 ,de ,serres states that1 even so late as #afjj1 many persons thus constructed their vats4 ,it is true1 he says1 the wine took a longer time to ferment in these receptacles than in wooden tubs2 but they were most easily cleaned1 contracted no bad taste1 lasted longer1 and required little or no outlay to keep them in repair4 ,but though these cisterns might be serviceable to the proprietor as a repository for his wine1 he was obliged1 when he sold it1 to have recourse to casks or skins4 ,the skins1 notwithstanding the many inconveniences they presented1 were long used for that purpose4 ,i have before stated that ,charlemagne forbade them in the cellars of his palace4 ,pierre de ,blois1 declaiming1 in the twelfth century1 against the luxury of the chevaliers1 represents them as leading horses laden with skins of wine1 and all the 8creature comforts0 that announce gluttony and drunkenness3--8,non ferro1 sed vino2 non lanceis1 sed caseis2 non ensibus1 sed utribus2 non hastis1 sed verubus onerantur40 ,at the repast which ,philippe de ,valois gave to the kings of ,scotland1 of ,majorca1 and of ,bohemia1 there was on the royal dresser 7le dressour royal7 no plate of gold or silver1 but only a leathern bottle1 in which was the wine of the princes and kings who sat at the festal board4 ,in order to understand this passage1 which is extracted from a very old work1 it is necessary to mention that1 in the time of ,philip1 there were no bottles1 nor were they known for many years afterwards4 ,wine1 at this epoch1 in the royal establishment as elsewhere1 was drunk from the cask4 ,if many sorts were given at an entertainment1 as often happened on occasions of great ceremony--in that event many casks were tapped1 and the remains of all belonged to the grand bouteiller4 ,travellers on horseback1 who were apprehensive of not finding wine on the road1 carried with them a species of leathern bottle attached to the saddle4 ,in the 8,life of ,st4 ,maur0 we read that1 travelling to visit one of the farms of his monastery1 he saw suddenly arrive ,ansgaire1 archdeacon of the church of ,angers4 ,the holy abb wished to refresh him4 ,unfortunately1 there was no other wine at the farmer's than the little which remained attached to the saddle-bow of ,st4 ,maur1 8in uno parvissimo vasculo quod ad sellam pendere consuerit40 ,but the holy man1 says the historian1 supplied the deficiency by a miracle1 and multiplied this remains of the liquor so exceedingly1 that it sufficed to quench the thirst of seventy-eight persons who were there present4 ,in the thirteenth century the vessels of which ,i have been speaking were called bouchaus1 boutiaux1 bouties1 or boutilles4 ,when the gentry of that day wished to make a long journey1 or were on their way to the wars1 they took bottles with them of considerable capacity4 ,it appears1 by an early charter1 that when the ,bishop of ,amiens marched thus in the arrire ban1 the tanners of the city were obliged to furnish him with two good and sufficient leather bottles1 one holding a muid and the other twenty-four stiers of wine4 ,the butchers were1 on their part1 bound to furnish the grease to cover these bottles4 ,if cover means to cork1 as the sense would seem to indicate1 it was certainly a strange process to seal a canteen destined for the keeping and transport of wine4 ,these boutiaux1 or boutilles1 took the name of bouteilles1 or bottles4 ,this name was afterwards applied to the decanters which were subsequently used4 ,on the first indication of madness presented by ,charles ,,vi41 on his journey to ,brittany1 the officers of his household1 who had preceded him1 served him with drink2 and being suspected of having poisoned him1 the ,duke of ,burgundy1 who accompanied them1 caused them to undergo an interrogatory3 but they protested their innocence1 says ,froissart1 and offered to prove it1 as there remained in the bottles a portion of the wine of which the king had drunk4 ,there can be no doubt that the bottles here spoken of were made of leather4 ,it now remains for me to touch on those wines which have enjoyed the greatest reputation1 from the conquest of the ,franks to the present time4 ,the earlier writers offer little on this subject4 ,gregory of ,tours speaks of the wines of ,maon1 ,orleans1 ,cahors1 and ,dijon4 ,the wines of ,auvergne are spoken of in a 8,life of ,st4 ,germain10 written in verse by ,heric1 who lived under ,charles the ,bald2 and there is mention of those of ,rheims and of the ,river ,marne1 in a letter of ,pandulus1 ,bishop of ,lan1 to ,hircanar4 ,baldric1 or ,baudri1 author of a ,latin poem which ,mabillon has cited in the 8,benedictine ,annals10 says that ,henry ,i4 greatly esteemed the wine of ,rbrchien 7area ,bacchi71 near ,orleans1 and that when he went to the army he took a provision with him to animate his courage4 ,there is a letter of ,louis le ,jeune1 written from the ,holy ,land to ,suger and to the ,comte de ,vermandois1 regents of the kingdom in his absence1 by which he directs them to give to his intimate friend1 ,arnould1 ,bishop of ,lisieux1 sixty modii of his excellent wine of ,orleans4 8,dilecto et prcordiali amico1 ,lexoviensi ,episcopo1 sexaginta ,aurelianenses modios de meo optimo vino ,aurelianensi dare non reanatis40 ,it is probable that this wine of ,orleans was the wine called ,rbrchien4 ,it is said that the greater number of the ,orleanais are one-eyed1 lame1 and hump-backed1 which is attributed by some1 most inconsequentially1 to the wine of ,orleans4 ,a fabliau of the twelfth century has come down to us which gives us a list of the best reputed wines of that day4 ,among the wines of the provinces the poet vaunts those of the ,gatinias1 d',auxois1 d',anjou1 and of ,provence4 ,over the list of the particularly celebrated wines we will not now travel4 ,suffice it to say1 that ,burgundy was then renowned for its wine of ,auxerre1 ,beaune1 ,beauvoisins1 ,flavigni1 and ,vermanton2 ,champagne for its ,chabli 7not ,chablis1 the ,burgundy wine of the department of the ,yonne71 ,epernai1 ,rheims1 ,hauvilliers1 ,sczanne1 ,tonnerre4 ,this production represents the ,beaune wine of a yellow colour1 inclining to the shade of an ox's horn4 ,it is very difficult to have a precise idea of such a colour4 ,when the popes in the thirteenth century transported their pontificial chair to ,avignon1 the table of their holinesses1 and of all their principal officers1 were furnished with wine from the monastery of ,cluni4 ,this was probably a wine of ,beaune2 for ,petrarch1 writing in #acff to ,urban ,v4 to engage him to come to ,rome1 and combatting the different reasons which retained the cardinals beyond the mountains1 says1 8,i have heard it sometimes alleged that there was no ,beaune wine in ,italy4 ,when1 in #aeaj1 the ambassadors sent by the ,emperor ,maximilian to ,louis ,,xii41 travelled across ,france to find the prince at ,tours1 where he was1 the queen1 on their passage through ,blois1 sent them fresh sea-fish1 with three barrels of old wine of ,beaune and ,orleans40 ,there is a great deal of fashion and caprice in the rise and fall of wines4 ,the reputation of different vintages may be compared to the characters of certain men4 ,to rise above the crowd1 it does not alone suffice to be possessed of real merit4 ,sometimes favourable circumstances or a happy chance is needed1 which is more often sought than found4 ,it has happened to us all to have drunk in a remote spot delicious wines1 which only needed the recommendation of a consummate gourmet to obtain instantaneous vogue4 ,it may also occasionally chance that a vineyard which1 for a long time had but an indifferent reputation1 may1 by the industry of a new proprietor1 by peculiar processes of making the wine1 or by a better cultivation of the grape1 become more perfect than it had been before4 ,there are hundreds of examples of this1 of which one may be cited4 ,who does not know that the wine of ,romane1 so famed for more than a century 7the estate on which it grows has since been purchased by the ,prince of ,conti71 owes its celebrity to a ,sieur de ,cromanbourg1 a ,german officer in the service of ,france1 who1 having married the heiress of this vineyard1 rendered it at length one of the first in ,burgundy4 ,in each century some of the wines of the preceding fall in repute1 and new vintages arise to take their place4 ,eustace des ,champs 7who died about #adbj71 in the numerous poetical ,,mss4 which he has left1 cites the vines of ,burgundy1 ,gascony1 ,la ,rochelle1 ,chabli1 ,st4 ,pourcain1 ,beaune1 and ,orleans1 which had been already cited by authors anterior to him2 but he also mentions the names of many new wines1--8,a1 ,aussone1 ,cumires1 ,dameri1 ,germoles1 ,givri1 ,gonesse1 ,iranci1 ,mantes1 ,pinos1 ,tournus1 ,troy1 and ,verlus40 ,it was said more than seventy years ago that the wine of ,france which best bears transport is the wine of ,mantes2 and1 in continuation of this fact1 a ,french traveller of the sixteenth century is cited1 who carried some of this wine to ,persia without its being in the least injured4 ,if this fact be true1 it is not unexampled nor peculiar to the wine of ,mantes4 ,it appears that1 in the fifteenth century1 ,burgundy and ,champagne disputed the palm among the wines of ,france4 ,if ,burgundy had its ,beaune1 ,champagne had its ,a4 ,these two wines were counted among the best in ,france4 8,this last10 says ,patin1 8is the wine that ,baudius called ,vinum ,dei at the house of ,de ,thou40 ,paumier1 in his 8,treatise on ,wine10 written in #aehh1 says it was the ordinary beverage of kings and princes4 ,it is certainly true that ,leo ,x41 ,charles ,v41 ,francis ,i41 and ,henry ,,viii4 had each a vineyard in ,champagne2 and ,st4 ,evremond alludes to the circumstance in a letter to the ,duke d',olonne4 ,burgundy was1 at this period1 considered the wholesomest1 the most cordial1 and the most generous of wines4 ,erasmus1 being tormented with nephritic pains1 which he attributed to the harsh and bitter wines of the ,rhine1 took to drinking burgundy exclusively1 and soon became perfectly restored4 8,sic enim subito recreatus est stomachus10 says he1 8ut mihi viderer renatus in alium hominem40 ,he has left us1 in one of his letters1 the praise of a liquor to which he was indebted for health4 8,happy province60 he exclaims3 8well may ,burgundy be called the mother of man1 suckling him with such milk60 ,he who first taught the art of making this wine ought to be considered1 not merely as having gratified us with a new liquor1 but as having given to us new life4 ,champier makes a remark1 which is truer now than it was in the sixteenth century1 namely1 that there was no country on earth which had such excellent1 or a variety of such admirable wines1 as ,france4 ,he counts among this number the wine of ,arbois and the muscat of ,languedoc2 and tells us that1 in ,arbois and ,hainault1 there was a demand for ,beaune wine1 but that the remaining portion of ,flanders preferred the wines of ,orleans4 ,beaujeau vaunts the wines of ,la ,crau2 and ,rabelais those of ,auxerre1 ,mirevaux1 ,migraine1 ,canteperdrix1 and ,frontignan4 ,at the repast which the ,king of ,france gave1 in #afjb1 to the ,swiss ambassadors1 ,canteperdrix wine was served4 ,madame de ,noyer 7in her 8,lettres ,historiques et ,galantes07 says that this may well be called the wine of the gods1 since it was sent to ,rome for the private drinking of the holy father4 ,there is no such wine as ,canteperdrix known1 in the present day1 by that special designation4 ,it is now called the vin de ,beaucaire1 and is a red wine of ,languedoc4 ,as to the wine of ,arbois1 it was the favourite beverage of ,henry ,,iv41 as we learn from an anecdote related in ,sully4 ,when the ,duke of ,mayenne had laid down his arms1 and treated with ,henry ,,iv41 the king1 in order to fix the fidelity of his vassal1 gave him two bottles of ,arbois wine4 8,car10 said the lively1 good-hearted monarch1 8je pense1 mon cousin1 que vous ne le hassez pas40 ,when ,sully1 being created duke and peer1 gave a grand repast on the day of his reception1 the king surprised him by appearing among the number of the guests4 8,but10 says the duke1 8as he was hungry1 and they were dilatory in serving the dinner1 he ate1 in the interval1 some oysters1 which he washed down with wine of ,arbois40 ,and a good preparation for a dinner it was4 ,paumier1 a ,norman physician1 has written a treatise on wines1 in which he counts four different colours1--white1 red1 blackish1 and il de perdrix1 i4e41 reddish4 ,he says that ,france then produced no red wine which was sweet1 excepting in the ,bordelais1 in which district there were red and black wines of great sweetness4 ,his description of the wines of ,gascony is1 that they were hot1 vinous1 easy of digestion1 and of a red or partridge-eyed colour4 ,this description1 in two particulars holds good to the letter to the present day4 ,these wines are still vinous and easy of digestion1 but they are not hot1 nor are they generally of a partridge-colour until they are old1 and in a state bordering on decomposition4 ,the doctor further states that the wines of ,chteau ,thierry were agreeable1 but so dangerous1 that the greater part of the inhabitants were afflicted with the gout from their tender infancy1 and died before they attained the ordinary age4 ,chteau ,thierry is on the borders of ,champagne1 and1 whatever may have been the case in the time of ,paumier1 in the sixteenth century1 it is certainly not true in the nineteenth that the inhabitants have the gout from their earliest years1 or that they die so prematurely4 ,but their wine is still good4 8,the red wine of the ,clos de ,st4 ,thierry1 a league from ,rheims1 is of a quality between burgundy and champagne1 and is very highly esteemed by the connoissieur40 ,the idea of having the gout prematurely is preposterous4 ,the gout is a disease scarcely known in ,champagne2 and1 if it be very common in ,england1 as must be admitted1 after occasional excesses1 it does not arise from the drinking of champagne solely1 to which it is most frequently attributed1 but from the mixture of a variety of wines1 champagne among the number4 ,baccius1 in his treatise 8,de ,viniis10 printed at ,rome in #aeif1 has a chapter on the wines of ,france4 ,he praises the wines of ,arles1 ,beziers1 ,bordeaux1 ,frontignan1 ,gaillac1 and ,st4 ,laurent4 ,nor does he omit the wines of ,avignon1 which arrived in small barrels1 hooped with iron2 the white wines which sparkle out of the glass1 and which please the smell as much as the taste 7probably he means champagne72 and the wines of ,paris1 which yield the palm to none in the kingdom4 ,what ,paumier says of the wines of ,paris will appear1 at present1 very strange4 ,the contempt with which the wines of the neighbourhood of the metropolis of ,france are at present treated will appear the more extraordinary when it is known that they enjoyed1 for fourteen centuries previously1 the highest reputation4 ,liebaut praises1 in a bad poem1 written in #afje1 the wines of ,ruel and ,surenne2 and the ,abb de ,marolles those of ,surenne1 ,argenteuil1 and ,st4 ,cloud2 8which10 says he1 8are pure1 and not unwholesome40 ,paumier is endless in his praises of the wines of ,paris1 which have not the inconvenience of drying up the blood1 like those of ,gascony2 do not fly to the head1 like those of ,chteau ,thierry and ,orleans2 and do not occasion obstructions and humours1 like those of ,bordeaux4 ,according to him1 burgundy1 when it has lost its roughness1 and is in its best state1 may be alone compared to the wine of the environs of ,paris4 ,patin1 writing in #affi1 says1 8,long live the bread of ,gonesse1 with the good wine of ,paris1 ,burgundy1 and ,champagne60 ,chaulieu1 in a piece of poetry written in #agjb1 represents his friend1 the ,marquis de la ,fare1 as going often to ,surenne to drink the wine3-- 8,et l'on m'ecrit qu' ,surnne1 ,au cabaret on a vu ,la ,fare et la bon ,silne1 ,qui pour en avoir trop bu1 ,retrouvoient la porte peine1 ,d'un lieu qu'ils ont tant connu40 ,these wines are now all forgotten1 and1 with the exception of the vin de ,condrieux1 exist no longer4 ,who could have imagined this a century ago8 and how 8has it come to pass80 ,may it not have been1 as ,le ,grand d',aussy suggests1 that the proprietors1 blinded by the bait of a sure and speedy sale1 which the proximity of the capital afforded1 were guilty of the imprudence of neglecting the proper cultivation of the vines1 or chose plants of an inferior quality4 ,it was remarked1 more than two centuries ago1 that the reputation of the ,orleans wines was owing to the manner of making them4 ,it appears that the inhabitants of ,orleans1 like wise and sensible men1 confined themselves to that object alone1 making it their only occupation4 ,over the minutest details they exercised supervision and control2 whereas the ,lyonnais and the ,parisians purchased a wine estate1 rather as a showy bauble than as a matter of commerce1 and completely surrendered the management to paid agents4 8,whence comes it10 says ,liebaut1 8that you rarely hear a native of ,orleans or a ,bourguignon complain of his vines1 whilst the complaints of a ,parisian are iteratively urged80 ,the reason is that one occupies himself personally in the matter1 whilst the other trusts to an ignorant or knavish vine-dresser4 ,to ,francis ,i41 and the grandees of his court1 ,champier attributes the discredit into which the wines of the neighbourhood of ,paris had commenced to fall4 8,these personages10 says he1 8having had their taste blunted by good cheer1 found the ,parisian wines poor and weak4 ,they1 therefore1 fell on the strong and vigorous wines of the south of ,france1 which they obtained at considerable cost40 ,the ,auvernat wine of ,orleans1 so praised by the ,abb de ,marolles1 is thus severely treated by ,boileau1-- 8,un laquais effront m'apporte un rouge bord ,d'un ,auvernat fumeux1 qui ml de lignage2 ,se vendoit chez creuet pour vin de l'hermitage2 ,et qui rouge et vermeil1 mais fade et doucereux1 ,n'avoit rien qu'on got plat1 et qu'un dboire affreux40 ,the first time ,i find mention of a vin de ,grave is towards the year #aeej4 ,if we are to judge from the testimony of ,madame de ,svign1 it was indifferently esteemed in her day4 ,in speaking of ,m4 de ,lavardin1 who is stated by ,st4 ,evremont to have been ,bishop of ,metz1 she says1 8,c'est un gros mrite qui ressemble au vin de ,grave40 ,the district of ,graves yields from #ajjj to #aejj tuns1 generally of a lively and brilliant colour1 with more body than the vines of ,medoc1 but less bouquet1 raciness1 and fineness4 ,the ,graves are so termed from the nature of the soil which produces them4 ,formerly the appellation was confined to the white sorts2 but it now comprehends the red as well as white wines which grow on the gravelly lands to the south-east and south-west of ,bordeaux4 ,the ,haut-,brion ranks highest amongst the red wines1 and approaches in quality to some of the better sorts of ,burgundy2 but it wants the fine perfume by which the ,medoc wines are distinguished4 ,the vins de ,grave are an excellent table wine1 and very proper to be taken with oysters1 if ,chablis cannot be obtained4 ,but little mention is made of the ,hermitage wine till the seventeenth century4 ,but if its reputation was tardy1 it was at least brilliant4 ,as soon as it became known at the court1 it was placed in the first rank of wines4 8,the king10 wrote ,patin1 in #afff1 8has made a present to the ,king of ,england of #bjj muids of very good wine of ,champagne1 ,burgundy1 and ,hermitage40 ,boileau1 soon afterwards1 speaks of it as a wine of first quality4 ,the best white ,hermitage ,i ever drank was a parcel purchased at the sale of the late ,marquis of ,londonderry's wines in ,st4 ,james's ,square1 after the death of ,emily1 ,marchioness of ,londonderry1 in #ahbh4 ,it was really exquisite1--a perfect liqueur in its way4 8,hermitage wine is divided into five classes4 ,it is styled by the ,french the richest coloured in their great variety of wines1 but it differs much with the seasons as to quality4 ,red ,hermitage will not keep more than twenty years without altering4 ,the price of the first class is often as high as #eej francs the piece of #baj litres4 ,the other growths or classes sell from #dej down to #cjj1 and even as low as #bej francs the piece4 ,when the season is bad1 and the wine of moderate quality1 the wine of the first growth will not bring more than #bej1 and of the last1 #abj francs4 8,red ,hermitage1 when it is of the first quality1 is not bottled for exportation until it has been four or five years in the cask1 in which1 as well as in bottles1 it is generally sold at that age4 ,the price1 in the former case is high1 even if the quality be moderate4 8,the white ,hermitage is made of white grapes only1 and divided into three growths4 ,this is the finest white wine ,france produces4 ,its colour should be straw-yellow2 its odour is like that of no other known wine4 ,it is of a rich taste1 between that of the dry and luscious wines4 ,it is often in a state of fermentation for two years1 but it is never delivered to the consumer1 if it can be avoided1 until fermentation is complete4 ,the quantity of real white ,hermitage does not exceed #abj pieces annually40 ,the reputation acquired by the ,burgundy wines was due to an accidental circumstance4 ,louis ,,xiv4 having fallen ill1 the physicians advised him the vin de ,nuits as the most pectoral and proper to re-establish his health2 and thence the reputation which this class of wine has ever since enjoyed4 ,the memoir of the ,intendant of ,burgundy tells us that the wines of ,tonnerre were1 in #afih1 very much sought after by the ,flemish4 ,the vin de ,tonnerre is fine1 full-flavoured wine1 of great body1 and very suitable to a damp1 cold climate4 ,it is not unlike first-rate old port1 but far superior in bouquet and fragrancy4 ,the finest ever drank by me was at the chteau of the ,marquis de ,louvois1 at ,ancy-le-,france1 and had been grown on his own estate4 ,the ,abb de ,marolles1 in his translation of ,martial1 gives a list of the wines for which ,burgundy was renowned in his day1 and here they are4 ,the wines of ,auxerre1 ,beaune1 ,coulanges1 ,joigny1 ,iranc1 ,vermanton1 and ,tonnerre1 8which some people prefer10 says he1 8to all other wine0 78que quelques-uns prfrent tous les autres074 ,the wine of ,tonnerre is certainly particularly calculated for the cold and foggy climate of ,burgundy1 or for any portion of ,england4 ,henderson thus alludes to the vin de ,tonnerre3--8,the department of the ,yonne furnishes several excellent red wines1 of which those of ,tonnerre and ,auxerre have been long celebrated40 ,redding is more copious and careful in his remarks on the ,burgundies4 8,the wines of ,tonnerre10 says he1 8of the finest kind fetch ninety francs the hectolitre on an average2 and the other wines in gradation from sixty to thirty-five4 ,the wine of ,olivotte1 one of the best1 has good flavour1 is fine1 and of excellent colour1 but it lacks the true bouquet1 unless in very favourable years4 ,the communes which furnish the best wines are ,tonnerre1 ,epineuil1 ,dannemonie1 for the finer red wines40 ,the country round ,tonnerre has many distinguished vineyards2 as those of ,pitoy1 de ,perrire1 and ,des ,preaux4 ,near these localities is situated the famous vineyard called ,des ,olivottes1 already spoken of1 which produces wines of a good colour1 much body1 and particularly spirituous4 ,they are at the same time fine and delicate1 and possess aromatic flavour and bouquet4 ,among the white wines of ,burgundy is the ,chablis1 so universally used with oysters1 both in ,france and on the ,continent generally4 ,the best classes of ,chablis1 produced at four leagues from ,auxerre1 rank among the second classes of white ,burgundy4 ,chablis is not always to be procured good in ,england1 more especially in the provinces2 but such as desire a light1 pleasant wine with their oysters1 may swallow a tumbler of ,chablis or ,sauterne1 or vin de ,pouilly1 or a large glass of good ,bucellas1 a wine possessing the fragrancy and bouquet of the ,rhenish1 with the warm1 aromatic1 and cordial flavour of the best ,spanish and ,portuguese wines4 ,bucellas is produced at about six leagues from ,lisbon2 it is preferred to the dry wine of ,setuval1 and is stronger than ,barsac4 ,it is1 however1 like all delicate wines1 irretrievably injured by an admixture of brandy4 ,care should therefore be taken to procure it from a trustworthy source4 ,to return to the vins de ,bourgogne4 ,it would take a volume to describe the different species of ,burgundy4 ,it is the vinous product most noted in ,france for its exquisite flavour1 bouquet1 and delicacy2 but ,burgundy is nevertheless a wine which least bears transport even on land1 whilst transport by sea is too often fatal to its fragrance and flavour4 ,within the last thirty years ,i have imported three parcels1 one of which was completely spoiled4 ,the two others 7one ,i procured through the good offices of my late friend the celebrated ,mauguin1 deputy for ,burgundy7 arrived soundly and uninjured2 but the merchants had taken care to envelope the bottles in a thick paper1 very much like cotton wadding1 and to encase the wine in two casks1 the inner hogshead being smeared over with a composition formed of plaster of ,paris and other ingredients of which ,i am ignorant4 ,burgundy is also frequently exported1 more especially to ,russia and ,america1 enveloped in salt4 ,the ,burgundy wines are divided into numerous classes4 ,in the quantity yielded1 as well as in the quality1 these classes differ hugely4 8,that of the first class10 says ,redding1 8is small in quantity1 and1 if any other wine be mingled with it1 is certain to be injured irreparably4 ,from hence it may be judged how little the common wine of ,portugal can claim to be classed high in the list of superior wines1 when from six to ten gallons of brandy are added to each pipe4 ,the difference in the effect of wine that intoxicates from the presence of a large admixture of alcohol1 and that which exhilarates from its native qualities alone1 is very singular4 ,the pure wine1 by the accurate blending of the constituent parts1 even where there has been a habit of free indulgence1 never leaves those distressing effects upon the constitution which are caused by drinking wine and unblended alcohol40 ,the author of the 8,topographie des ,vignobles0 says that the vineyards of ,burgundy cover #ajc1jjj hectares2 the produce1 on the average1 being #b1eej1jjj hectolitres of wine1 #gj1jjj of which are consumed in the country4 ,the vineyards have increased very much since the ,revolution1 many landowners having converted into vineyards low and marshy lands2 others having introduced manures1 or carried new earth upon the old to increase the crop2 others1 again1 have substituted young for the old plants1 and even common plants for the fine and superior growths of the vine4 ,this has caused a degeneracy in the wines in the opinion of the purchaser2 but1 notwithstanding the increase in low and common wines1 the number of good vineyards have1 in the opinion of good judges1 likewise increased4 ,but little has been written in ,england on the subject of vineyards since the time of ,arthur ,young1 whose work on ,france was published at ,bury ,st4 ,edmund's in #agid1 seventy years ago4 ,the most modern journal giving an account of the ,burgundy vineyards that ,i have met with is the journal of ,mr4 ,james ,busby1 published originally in ,new ,south ,wales1 and reprinted by ,smith1 ,elder1 and ,co4 several years ago4 ,it is no common thing1 according to the best authorities1 for a hogshead of red ,burgundy wine to fetch from #abej to #aejj francs2 but the white wine is never said to rise above #fjj francs the hogshead4 ,touching the ,clos ,vougeot in particular1 however1 ,m4 ,joubert remarks--and he represents at ,paris the houses of ,barton and ,guestier of ,bordeaux1 of ,ruinart1 pre et fils1 at ,rheims1 of ,charles ,marcy of ,nuits1 and of ,deinhart and ,jordan of ,coblentz--that this famous vintage is year by year deteriorating4 ,formerly1 says ,m4 ,joubert1 this wine possessed the greatest renown of any wine in ,france1 but it is not so now4 ,it is no longer the production of artistes1 but purely and simply an affair of trade4 ,so long as the vineyard was the property of the monks 7we owe to the monasteries the finest vineyards of ,france71 the ,clos ,vougeot was made with infinite care1 and carefully preserved till age had developed its full perfections4 ,the ,messrs4 ,tourton and ,ravel had continued to practise these good traditions1 but ,m4 ,joubert seems to insinuate that since their time fraud and falsification abound in the preparation of the wine4 ,this remark was probably addressed to the late notorious ,ouvrard1 who1 in the year #ahcb or #ahcc1 took a large house at the corner of ,langham ,place1 for the purpose of making known these wines4 ,but notwithstanding these frauds1 ,burgundy produces in good years admirable wines1 in the most exact signification of the term1 possessing an incomparable colour and bouquet4 ,a worthy ,benedictine named ,perignon1 according to the author of the 8,spectacle de la ,nature10 presided at the making of the wines of the ,abbaye of ,hauvilliers2 and ,pluche says1 by the invention of new processes1 ,pre ,perignon procured for these wines a reputation which they never enjoyed before4 ,as though the vinous wealth of ,burgundy were not already sufficiently extensive1 the wine proprietors have introduced within the last dozen years a sparkling ,burgundy2 as ,deinhart and ,jordan1 at ,coblentz1 have sought to introduce a sparkling ,moselle2 but these new inventions1 though applauded by greenhorns1 are not patronised by those wiser and older wine drinkers who have been accustomed to ,nuits1 ,volnay1 ,beaune1 ,pomard1 and ,chambertin4 ,the ,nuits wine is seldom fit for drinking till the third or fourth year after the vintage1 but is said by ,henderson to bear the carriage well2 and there can be no doubt that1 when old1 it acquires a high flavour4 ,salins1 who wrote in #agjd the 8,defense du vin de ,bourgogne contre le vin de ,champagne10 says1 the inestimable advantage which ,burgundy possesses over its rival is that of furnishing successively cases of wine for all seasons of the year4 8,in the first place10 says he1 8there are the wines of ,pomard1 ,beaune1 and ,volnay2 then the white wine of ,meulsant2 and lastly the ,nuits qui n'a pas son pareil et ne peut tre assez pris40 ,it is the district of ,nuits which produces the ,burgundy called ,st4 ,george and the ,meursault wines4 ,here1 also1 the curious wine called ,mont ,rachet is made of three distinct kinds of grape grown on the same aspect1 with no difference that can be discovered in soil2 and yet1 says ,redding1 one species is so good as to bring three times the price of the others4 ,the wine produced at ,volnay1 a village situated about three miles from ,beaune1 was in ,barry's time1 who wrote in #agge1 exactly eighty-nine years ago1 the finest and most volatile wine in ,burgundy4 ,in the year of a good vintage1 there is no better wine of entremets than ,beaune4 ,it is of a fine red colour1 has no noxious qualities1 does not heat the blood like other crus of ,burgundy1 will keep a long time without spoiling1 and will bear water carriage4 ,i have drunk excellent ,beaune in the remotest corners of ,hungary and ,transylvania1 in the heart of ,poland1 nay1 even in the midst of ,russian snows4 ,it is a favourite wine both at ,petersburg and ,moscow1 where great quantities are consumed1 mingled with ice and water in the summer months4 ,in order to drink ,beaune in perfection1 it should not1 however1 be more than four or five years old4 ,pomard is a delicious wine1 having body and colour2 and1 if first-rate1 a light and grateful aroma4 ,i have now some more than thirty years old1 obtained pure direct from the grower1 through the instrumentality and good offices of ,m4 ,mauguin1 who succeeded the ,marquis de ,chauvelin1 as deputy for the ,ct d',or4 ,a finer wine was never tasted4 ,chambertin1 it is well known to everyone1 was the favourite wine of ,napoleon before he arrived at ,st4 ,helena4 ,after that period he drank ,bordeaux1 probably because he thought ,burgundy would have been injured by the sea voyage4 ,chambertin is produced1 according to ,m4 ,jullien1 two leagues and a half from ,dijon1 occupies twenty-five hectares1 and produces yearly from #acj to #aej pieces of excellent wine1 which gives a most perfect bouquet and aromatic flavour1 what the ,french wine merchants call sve and moelleux4 ,it has a fuller body and colour than the ,romane1 with an aroma nearly as fragrant4 ,the ,richebourg ,tache and ,st4 ,george approach1 according to ,henderson1 the ,chambertin in their more essential qualities4 ,chambertin is said to be one of the ,burgundy wines which best bears exportation4 ,this1 and almost all other ,burgundy wines should1 however1 be drunk in moderation1 for they are apt to give a feverish heat to the blood4 ,herein the true gourmet should follow the advice so happily given by ,panard3-- 8,se piquer d'tre grand buveur ,est un abus que je dplore3 ,fuyons ce titre peu flatteur2 ,c'est un honneur qui dshonore4 ,quand on boit trop on s'assoupit1 ,et l'on tombe en dlire3 ,buvons pour avoir de l'esprit1 ,et non pour le dtruire40 ,the wine which ranks the highest in estimation of all the ,burgundy wines is the ,romane ,conti4 ,the produce is exceedingly scant1 as the vineyard is limited to five acres4 ,as the quantity is so small1 this wine is rarely exported4 ,it sells even on the spot from six to eight francs the bottle4 ,henderson says it is seldom met with in a genuine state1 and that there is reason to believe that the produce of the vineyard of ,romane ,st4 ,vivant 7so called from the monastery of that name71 which is more abundant and of a similar1 though inferior quality1 is often sold for it4 ,it may be here remarked1 that when the monks possessed the superior ,burgundy vineyards1 they wisely made it a rule to sell the wines only in bottle4 ,tourton and ,ravel of ,paris1 who purchased the vineyard of ,clos ,vougeot during the ,revolution at a million of francs1 or about #ejj the ,english acre1 followed this example2 but it appears the marked distinction of qualities that existed in the time of the monks has not been kept up1 and that it will be long before the ancient character can be regained4 ,the vinous products of ,saone and ,loire do not equal the premiers crus of the ,ct d',or1 but several of them nearly approach the wines of this far-famed district2 and they are in general what ,french wine-growers call plus solides1 i4e41 they are less injured in the transport and less exposed to sudden changes1 ruinous to the merchant and most unsatisfactory to the consumer4 ,chalons and ,mcon possess wines of high merit4 ,under the name of ,mcon wines are comprehended not only the growths of the ,mconnais1 but also the wines of the ,beaujolais1 forming part of the department of the ,rhone4 ,those of ,romanche and of ,thorins1 in the vicinity of ,mcon1 in particular1 are esteemed for their delicacy1 and sprightliness1 and agreeable flavour2 that of ,chenas1 in the canton of ,beaujeu1 on the other hand1 is a more spirituous and fuller wine1 and will bear keeping three or four years in the wood4 ,of these wines the best are grown1 according to ,henderson1 on a granitic soil4 ,formerly the plant called chanay1 which produces a very small grape1 and yields an excellent wine1 was in general cultivation here2 but the cupidity of the farmers had led to the substitution of the ,bourguignon grape1 in which1 as usual1 quality is exchanged for quantity4 ,it may not be uninteresting to state that the ,mcon wines are praised by no less an authority than ,gregory of ,tours2 and mention is also made of them in the 8,comdie des ,cteaux ou les ,friands ,marquis10 published in the year #affe4 ,they are1 without any doubt1 the wholesomest wines that come from ,burgundy1 and may be drunk with impunity at all seasons of the year2 but a great portion of the ordinary ,mcon consumed at ,paris is adulterated4 ,when1 however1 this wine is obtained genuine1 it is equal to mothers' milk4 ,i remember as a boy dining with an old gentleman of large fortune in the ,chausse d',antin1 who had been one of the ,mousquetaires ,rouges1 and who gave me goblet after goblet of this pure ,mcon4 8,where1 my dear sir1 did you obtain this excellent wine80 ,i asked4 8,ah1 mon cher60 said my old friend1 8that was a present to me from ,cruz de ,lesser1 when he was ,prefect at ,autun4 ,i doubt that my neighbour ,tourton1 who lives at the corner of the ,rue de ,provence1 or that ,jovet or ,vilcoq of ,antun could match it60 ,mcon wine may be generally imported into ,england without risk of being injured in flavour4 ,there is one observation which might be made on the wines of ,burgundy before this part of the subject is closed1 and the observation equally applies to all wines which have1 like the ,burgundies1 a very fine bouquet and aromatic flavour4 ,such wines should never be iced4 ,icing1 or even a too cold cellar1 causes them to lose that inappreciable and fugacious flavour which is developed by a moderate degree of heat4 ,burgundies should be taken out of the cellar an hour or two before dinner and placed in the dining-room1 within the wake of a temperate fire4 ,i go farther than most persons1 and maintain that most red wines should not be iced4 ,it may be answered1 that 8there is no wine more iced than ,claret in all the ,indian presidencies20 but this ,claret so iced is not the pure juice of the grape4 ,it is a loaded wine made for the market1 which every genuine lover of ,claret should abhor4 ,it was the custom in the first society of ,bordeaux1 and always at the prefecture1 in the days of ,baron d',haussey1 afterwards ,minister of ,marine to ,charles ,x41 to serve ,claret with a tepid napkin round the claret-jug or decanter into which the wine was poured1 or round the green glass bottle itself1 if1 as indeed it more frequently happened1 the wine was not decanted4 ,this gentle heat brings out advantageously the flavour and aroma of the wine4 ,as to the period of the dinner when ,burgundy should be introduced1 all ,i would say is this1 that it should not be served later than the roast4 ,a glass of ,pomard1 ,nuits1 or ,chambertin1 may be very well taken after the first mouthful of a good haunch of ,south ,down or a filet de buf la ,poivrade is swallowed4 ,neither should ,i object to a repetition of the dose 7whatever ,lord ,brougham1 who contends for ,claret after game1 may say to the contrary7 after swallowing a slice of woodcock1 partridge1 or that excellent bird1 so justly bepraised1 the golden plover2 but to reserve ,burgundy for the entremets1 sucrs1 or dessert1 is a piece of rampant snobbishness worthy of a nouveau riche4 ,the water-drinkers may laugh at me for having written at such length on such subjects1 but ,i answer in the lines of ,franois de ,neufchateau3-- 8,mais la sobriet ,dans ses travers sera-t-elle plus sage8 ,pour fuir l'abus doit-on bannir l'usage8 ,ah1 je connais la pauvre humanit ,tout est jolie2 et bien mieux que personne ,un buveur d'eau quelquefois draisonne40 ,i now come to ,champagne wine4 ,the quarrel which existed in the time of ,louis ,,xiv4 between the ,burgundy doctor and the ,champenois1 concerning the respective merits and defects of the wines of their different provinces1 has been before alluded to4 ,the ,bourguignon maintained that ,burgundy merited a preference over the wine of ,rheims1 for that these latter over-excited the nerves1 produced dangerous maladies1 such as the gout2 and1 in a word1 that ,fagon1 first physician to ,louis ,,xiv41 forbade their use to that monarch4 ,the citizens of ,rheims deemed themselves in duty bound to resent this insult1 and the faculty of medicine of the town was charged with the task4 ,the faculty1 of course1 maintained that the wines of ,a1 ,pierri1 ,versenai1 ,silleri1 ,hauvilliers1 ,tassi1 ,montbr1 and ,st4 ,thierri1 bore off the bell in the 8top-loftiest manner10 as ,sam ,slick would say1 from ,burgundy2 that they possessed a more limpid colour1 a sweeter perfume1 more body1 and greater durability4 ,the ,bourguignon rejoined1 that the courts of ,england1 ,germany1 and ,denmark1 drank no other beverage than ,burgundy2 8and as to ,champagne10 says he1 8it owes its renown to the two ministers1 ,colbert and ,le ,tellier1 who1 as wine-proprietors1 vaunted their own vineyards in the neighbourhood of ,rheims40 ,this was1 however1 a mistake4 ,colbert was1 indeed1 a ,champenois1 but neither he nor ,le ,tellier gave renown to the wines of ,champagne4 ,the vineyards of ,champagne had been celebrated for centuries before they were born2 and ,francis ,i41 ,leo ,x41 ,charles ,v41 and ,henry ,,viii41 had each of them a vineyard at ,a1 with a resident superintendent4 ,the other objections of the ,bourguignon have more show of reason4 8,champagne is a wine10 says he1 8which is neither strong1 nor full-bodied1 nor generous4 ,it is weak1 insipid1 and watery1 liable to change colour1 incapable of bearing exportation1 or a long journey2 whereas ,volnay was drunk in ,poland at the coronation of ,sobieski1 and ,beaune was served at ,venice by ,comandante ,morosini at the entertainment which he gave the senators after the conquest of the ,morea1 when it was considered one of the first wines of ,europe40 ,the champion of ,champagne answered with an extract from a letter of ,st4 ,evremond to the ,duke d',olonne3--8,fussiez vous a deux cens lieues de ,paris1 n'pargnez aucune dpense1 pour avoir des vins de ,champagne4 ,ceux de ,bourgogne ont perdu leur credit auprs des gens qui ont le got dlicat2 et peine conservent ils un reste de rputation chez les marchands40 ,this vinous battle continued till #agda1 when another question was started1 viz4 8,le vin de ,champagne est il aussi salutaire qu'agrable80 ,it was propos of this question that the ,sieur ,navier maintained twenty years later1 in the schools of ,rheims1 that ,champagne might be usefully employed in putrid fevers4 ,but notwithstanding these pros and cons1 the world went on pretty much as usual4 ,those who relished ,champagne drank it1 and those who preferred ,burgundy swallowed their modicum of their favourite tipple without the least regard to the literary combatants4 ,so it will ever be4 ,the department of ,marne1 in the opinion of most women1 and of all boys1 is the real and genuine vinous glory of ,france4 ,i admit that if you find a ,champagne of a really first-rate cru2 limpid1 neither too sweet1 nor too sparkling1 nor too spirituous2 but brisk with body1 vinous1 and retaining these amiable qualities so as fully to develope them in the arrire bouche--that then you obtain a rare wine1 and not to be despised4 ,but how seldom1 how very rarely indeed1 is such a wine to be had6 ,in consequence of the tricks played with ,champagne wines1 the generality of the vintages possess not that perfect1 piquant1 and fine flavour which heretofore characterized them4 ,how can it be otherwise8 ,a gentleman with whom ,mr4 ,busby travelled told him he could buy very good sound ,champagne at ,chlons for two francs a bottle1 and was then going to purchase one hundred bottles at that price4 ,millions of bottles of champagne mousseux are1 however1 yearly sold in the ,champagne country at two and three francs the bottle1 and this shocking swipes is too dear by half4 ,champagne should only be purchased with the greatest precautions4 8,by ,champagne wine10 says ,henderson1 8is usually understood a sparkling or frothing liquor1 or a wine subjected to an imperfect fermentation1 and containing a quantity of carbonic acid gas that has been generated during the insensible fermentation in bottle1 and is disengaged on removing the pressure by which it was retained in solution4 ,this notion is not altogether correct2 for the district under review furnishes many excellent wines1 both red and white1 which do not effervesce4 ,it is true1 indeed1 that most of the white1 or ,river ,marne wines1 are brisk2 and in general1 they are of superior quality1 and more highly esteemed than the red or mountain wines4 ,they are distinguished by their delicate flavour and aroma1 and the agreeable pungency and slightly acidulous taste which they derive from the carbonic acid4 ,their exhilarating virtues are familiar to every one4 8,it must be remembered1 however1 that the briskest wines are not always the best4 ,they are1 of course1 the most defective in true vinous quality1 and the small portion of alcohol which they contain immediately escapes from the froth as it rises on the surface1 carrying with it the aroma1 and leaving the liquor that remains in the glass nearly vapid2 for it has been shown by ,humboldt1 that when the froth is collected under a bell-glass1 surrounded with ice1 the alcohol becomes condensed on the sides of the vessel by the operation of the cold4 ,hence the still1 or the creaming1 or slightly sparkling ,champagne wines 7crmants1 or demi-mousseux7 are more highly valued by connoisseurs1 and fetch greater prices than the full-frothing wines 7grand-mousseux74 ,by icing these wines before they are used1 the tendency to effervesce is in some degree repressed1 or only allowed to operate to such an extent as may be compatible with the more perfect flavour that we desire to find in them2 but when they are kept cool this precaution is unnecessary4 8,among the white wines of ,champagne1 the first rank is usually assigned to those of ,sillery1 under which name is comprehended the produce of the vineyards of ,verzenay1 ,mailly1 ,raument1 c4 ,it is a dry1 still liquor1 of a light amber colour1 with considerable body and flavour1 somewhat analogous to that of the first growths of the ,rhine1 and1 being one of the best fermented ,champagne wines1 may be drunk with the greatest safety4 ,having been originally brought into vogue by the peculiar care bestowed on the manufacture of it by the ,marchale d',estres1 it was long known by the name vin de la ,marchale4 ,it has always been in much request in ,england1 probably on account of its superior strength and durable quality4 ,it is usually drunk iced40 ,the rich dry ,sillery is kept longer in the cask than the other wines1 and the fermentation not being checked1 it is esteemed more wholesome4 ,the still wines of ,epernay are inferior to those of ,rheims2 but the other kinds1 according to ,redding1 approached very nearly to those of ,a in delicacy of bouquet4 ,the price to the merchant on the spot1 according to the same authority1 is about #bs4 #c;d4 a bottle1 and in scarce years #bs4 #f;d4 ,in an article in the 8,encyclopdia ,metropolitana10 it is said that those wines must be kept three years in bottle to attain perfection1 and will continue excellent for ten1 twenty1 and even thirty years or more1 if they are of prime quality4 ,this1 under favour and with submission1 is a grave mistake4 ,champagne1 with the exception of first-rate qualities1 is not a vin de garde1 and requires to be looked after every year4 ,if there be the least sediment or deposit1 it is the custom in all the great wine-vaults in ,champagne to filter the wine into fresh bottles4 ,the ,champagne wines are short-lived2 but if the quality of the liquor be of the very best1 the wine does not acquire perfection till it has been three years in bottle4 ,supposing it to be of the very primest quality1 the cream of ,champagne certainly may last for fifteen or twenty years1 and still acquire perfection4 ,some there are1 indeed1 who say that delicious ,champagne has been tasted forty years old4 ,i never tasted any above thirteen years old1 and that was many years ago1 at the house of ,mr4 ,marsh1 author of 8,the ,clubs of ,london10 then living in the ,rue de ,bourbon1 ,faubourg ,st4 ,germain4 ,a friend1 however1 who is a good judge of ,champagne1 and fond of a good glass of it--and1 what is better than all1 a good fellow1--says he has tasted excellent twenty years old1 and ,i defer to his authority1 now that the old ,irish peer1 ,allen 7the fondest and most inveterate of ,champagne-drinkers ,i ever encountered1 whether peer or plebeian71 is not producible1 or1 at least1 not forthcoming to give his evidence1 though called on his subpna4 ,it should be stated1 that the wine-growers in ,champagne prepare their merchandise for the various tastes and caprices of different nations4 ,thus1 the ,champagne for the ,russians is a very different wine from the ,champagne for the ,germans2 which1 again1 differs from the wine confectionn for the ,english market4 ,the ,americans are said to put up with anything which foams and sparkles in a 8tarnation toplofty fashion40 ,in ,jaquesson's cellars at ,chlons sur ,marne1 you see bins for all the principal towns of the world1--,london1 ,vienna1 ,paris1 ,petersburg1 ,madrid1 c4 ,champagne1 unlike ,burgundy or ,claret1 is a wine always improved by ice4 ,the chief characteristic of the best ,champagne is its exquisite delicacy of flavour4 ,the strength of the bottles for the sparkling wines1 and their uniform thickness1 are most carefully ascertained4 ,a bottle with the least imperfection or malformation is put aside for the red wines4 ,it were useless to particularise every variety of wine produced in ,champagne4 ,some of the classes are so bad that they will not bear exportation4 ,the wine most esteemed after the ,sillery is the ,a2 but it is nearly equalled by the wine of ,mareuil4 ,the wine of ,pierry is drier1 but will keep longer than those of ,a1 and nearly equals them in quality4 ,the wines of ,dizz follow next1 and lastly ,epernay1 part of whose wines is inferior1 and part equal to those of ,a4 ,the author of the 8,topographie des ,vignobles0 thus speaks of the high price of the ,vins ,mousseux3--8,the high price of the ,vins ,mousseux10 says ,jullien1 8comes not only from the quality of the wines chosen to make them1 and the infinite pains required before they are finished1 but also from the considerable losses to which the proprietors and dealers are exposed in this kind of speculation1 and the strange phenomena which determine or destroy the qualit mousseuse4 ,as to losses1 the owners count in general upon fifteen or twenty bottles broken in a hundred2 sometimes even thirty or forty4 ,to this must be added the diminution which takes place as the wine is separated from its deposits by decanting1--an operation which is performed at least twice40 ,these certainly are curious and unexplainable phenomena2 but explainable or not1 one thing is certain1 that if gentlemen wish to obtain first-rate ,champagne1 whether still or sparkling1 they must go to a respectable wine-merchant1 and pay a good price1 whether at home or abroad4 ,in dealing with ,mot1 or ,ruinart1 or any other accredited agent1 they cannot fail to find a superior article2 but they should avoid the cheap ,champagnes with as much care as they would avoid the feculent water flowing out of ,fleet ,ditch into the ,thames4 ,mr4 ,redding1 in a valuable little book of his called 8,every ,man his own ,butler10 says1 8,some people fancy they get better ,champagne by going to the docks and choosing for themselves40 ,but that this is not so will be very apparent1 when it is stated that hundreds of thousands of bottles of ,champagne are imported1 which1 glass1 wine1 and all1 are not worth the duty4 ,the bottling of the effervescing ,champagne wines begins in ,march1 and the fermentation in ,may4 ,the latter continues all the summer1 but is particularly strong in ,june1 during the flowering of the vine2 and in ,august1 when the fruit begins to ripen4 ,at these times1 the greatest loss in the bursting of bottles takes place1 and it is not safe to pass through a cellar without being guarded with a mask of iron wire4 ,it occasionally happens that the workmen who neglect this precaution are sometimes severely1 sometimes dangerously1 wounded4 ,among the wines prepared to effervesce--or1 to use the technical phrase1 for la mousse--there are some which only partake of a slight fermentation4 ,these are the crmants wines1 which drive out the cork with less force1 and sparkle in the glass4 ,their mousse is frothy1 and1 like the 8,snow-ball on the river1 ,a moment white1 then gone for ever40 ,they are said to have the advantage over the ,vins grand mousseux1 in preserving more vinous qualities and being less sharp4 ,their price is also higher1 for they are sought for by connoisseurs1 and cannot be obtained in great quantity4 ,the best red ,champagne wines are produced upon the north side of the declivities of the ,marne1 which are called the ,montagnes de ,rheims4 ,the ,champagne wine-merchants use the greatest precaution in packing their wines for exportation4 ,the sides of the baskets or cases are lined with pasteboard1 and each bottle is enveloped in a sheet of blue or grey paper4 ,champagne mousseux1 exported to the ,indies or ,america1 is preserved from the excessive heat by being packed in salt4 ,at the bottom of the case there is a layer of straw1 and then a layer of salt1 upon which the first row of bottles is placed4 ,jullien1 in his 8,manuel du ,sommelier10 states that the finest ,burgundies thus packed have preserved all their qualities on a voyage to ,india1 and experienced but fourteen degrees of heat in passing under the equator4 ,i come at length to ,claret1 and with ,francesco ,redi1 exclaim1-- 8,benedetto1 ,quel claretto60 ,blessed1 indeed1 be ,bordeaux1 the ground that bare it2 for it is king of all wines1 past1 present1 and to come6 ,of this opinion1 too1 was ,lmery1 physician to ,louis ,,xiv41 who thus speaks of it3--8,claret10 says he1 8of all others1 is generally the best wine for all constitutions2 and the reason is1 because it contains a sufficient quantity of tartarous parts1 that make it less heady and more stomachical than white wine4 ,as for pale wine2 it is a middling sort1 between the red and white2 the same is made of grapes of the same colour1 or else by mixing white wine with a little red40 ,the ,bordeaux wines are generally divided into vins de ,mdoc1 des ,graves1 des ,palus1 des ,ctes1 de ,terre forte1 and vins d'entre deux ,mers2 but so much do they differ by the taste1 colour1 bouquet1 durability1 and a thousand imperceptible shades1 that it would be difficult to give an exact list of the varied and magnificent productions of the ,gironde4 ,commercial men have1 however1 established two recognised classes1 which appear to be tacitly admitted by all parties1 and which may serve as a guide to the purchaser4 ,in the first class are ranked ,chteau ,margeaux1 ,chteau ,lafitte1 ,latour1 ,haut ,brion4 ,the product of these four vintages may be rated at from #djj to #dej tonneaux1 the value of which represents a capital of #bdjj to #cjjj francs per tonneau4 ,when age has developed the qualities of these wines1 more particularly in a good vintage1 the value is at least doubled4 ,for the last twenty years the ,haut ,brion seems to be on the wane in public favour1 and it sells at a lesser price than one of its three rivals4 ,the second class of ,bordeaux wines is composed of the ,rauzan1 ,braune1 ,mouton1 ,loville1 ,gruau1 ,la ,rose1 ,pichon1 ,longueville1 ,durfort1 ,degorse1 ,destournelle2 producing #hej tonneaux1 which ranges at from #bjjj to #bajj francs the tonneau4 ,the third class comprises within its ranks the ,kirwan1 ,chteau d',issau1 ,poujets1 many clos of ,cantenac1 and of ,margeaux1 ,mulescot1 ,ferrire1 ,giscours1 c4 ,these vineyards produce about #aajj tonneaux1 of the value of from #agjj to #ahjj francs the tonneau4 ,the fourth class has two divisions3 first1 the ,saint ,julien1 ,bchevelle1 ,saint ,pierre1 c42 producing about #fej tonneaux1 worth about from #abjj to #aejj each4 ,in the second division are ranged the great properties of ,pauillac and ,saint ,estphe1 with some others1 producing about #ajjj tonneaux1 at from #ajjj to #abjj francs the tonneau4 ,the difference which exists between these four or five superior qualities of wine1 and the wines made by small proprietors1 which are sold at from #cjj to #dej francs the tonneau1 results less from the quality of the grape and the nature of the soil than from circumstances incident to the want of capital1 and from the desire of obtaining quantity at the expense of quality4 ,there can be no doubt whatever that the large capitalist purchases a better wine than the small one1 though the small capitalist has it in his power to produce as good a bottle of wine on his own table as his richer neighbour4 ,but1 when he caters for the public1 it is more profitable by different mixtures to produce #ajj tonneaux of middling quality than fifty of superior wine1 even though the latter be sold at a considerably higher price than the former4 ,in the cellars at ,bordeaux there is great management of the wine4 ,it is always kept in a vault or cellar pretty nearly of the same temperature1 and is fed1 once every two or three weeks1 if intended for the ,english or foreign market1 with a pint or two of the best brandy4 ,the wine is frequently tasted to know what state it is in1 and the brandy is used accordingly4 ,care must1 however1 be taken never to put in much at a time1 especially for wines intended for immediate sale1 as such a mode of proceeding would destroy the flavour of the wine1 and cause it to taste fiery4 ,if a little be put in at a time1 it is said to incorporate quickly with the wine1 and to feed and mellow it4 ,among the ,london wine merchants the custom is1 if the ,claret be faint and has lost its colour1 to rack it into a fresh hogshead upon the lees of good ,claret4 ,it is then bunged up1 pulling the bung downwards for two or three days that the lees may run through it1 after which its bung is laid up till it be fine4 ,if the colour be not then perfect1 it is racked off again into a hogshead that has been nearly drawn off1 then an ounce of cochineal is added1 shaken up in a bottle of wine1 and put it into the hogshead2 and by this method the wine is said to acquire both a good colour and body4 ,sometimes a pound of turnsole is put into a gallon or two of wine1 and the cask rolled about1 and then the wine-doctors tell you your beverage will have a perfect colour4 ,the greenhorns may think this is pure invention2 but1 lest ,i should be thought 8to draw on my fancy for facts10 ,i extract the following receipts from the work of ,john ,davies1 who1 having practised them on the lieges of ,leeds for a long while1 at length came up to the metropolis1 and published his work 8,on the ,managing1 ,colouring1 and ,flavouring of ,foreign ,wines and ,spirits10--a work which subsequently went through many editions4 ,the following are his receipts verbatim et literatim3-- 8,,method ,,of ,,colouring ,,claret4--,take as many as you please of damsons or black sloes1 and strew them with some of the deepest-coloured wine you can get1 and as much sugar as will make it into a syrup4 ,a pint of this will colour a hogshead of ,claret4 ,it is also good for red ,port wines1 and may be kept ready for use in glass bottles4 8,a ,,remedy ,,for ,,claret ,,that ,,drinks ,,foul4--,rack off your ,claret from the dregs on some fresh lees of its own kind1 and then take a dozen of new pippins1 pare them1 and take away the cores or hearts1 then put them in your hogsheads1 and1 if that is not sufficient1 take a handful of the oak of ,jerusalem and bruise it1 then put it into your wine1 and stir it very well4 ,this not only takes away the foulness1 but also gives it a good scent40 ,the great commerce of ,bordeaux is in its wine1 but it is much diminished since the loss of ,st4 ,domingo4 ,a considerable export of wines1 not so loaded as they formerly were1 has recently taken place to the ,east ,indies2 and no doubt the opening of the ,china trade will also somewhat tend to improve the condition and state of the ,gironde wine-grower4 ,but what most desire to see1 would be a freer exchange of the vinous wealth of ,france with ,england4 ,it is in every sense desirable that our population1 instead of drinking that thick and heady ,port1 consumed by the ,eldons and ,stowells of a past generation1 and some old dons and tutors of ,oxford1 a few old barristers1 and a great mass of attorneys of the present generation1 should drink the ordinary red ,bordeaux wines2 or1 if they will have white wines1 those ,sauternes and ,graves whose prices sometimes rise so high as #cjjj francs the tonneau4 ,there is not a pleasanter or more healthful wine than good ,sauterne4 ,it is1 of course1 difficult to get pure ,sauterne in taverns or hotels2 but to such as have not establishments in town1 a trial of the ,sauterne at ,bellamy's1 at the ,house of ,commons1 would be advisable4 ,the following account of ,jullien is very interesting3-- 8,the inferior wines of ,bordeaux10 says the author of the 8,topographic des ,vignobles10 are exported to ,america and the interior of ,france2 those of the first quality to ,india1 ,russia1 and ,england4 8,the difference in price between the first and inferior wines is very great4 ,those of the best vineyards sell generally the first year at from #bjjj to #cjjj francs the tonneau1 and rise to #ejjj or #fjjj1 and even higher1 in a very favourable vintage4 ,on the contrary1 the vins communs fetch only from #ajj to #abj francs1 and seldom rise to more than #bjj or #cjj4 8,the wine of first quality1 at its point of maturity1 ought to have a beautiful colour1 much firmness1 a very agreeable bouquet1 and a flavour which embalms the mouth1 strength without intoxicating1 and body without harshness4 ,the ,bordeaux wines are1 contrary to the generality of ,french wines1 improved by a sea voyage2 and wines of the second and third quality1 after a voyage1 have equalled those of the first4 8,the ,english houses at ,bordeaux1 immediately after the vintage1 purchase a large quantity of the wines of all the best vineyards1 in order that they may undergo la travaille l'anglaise4 ,this operation consists in putting into fermentation part of the wines during the following summer2 by mixing in each barrel from thirteen to eighteen pots of ,alicant or ,benicarlo1 or the wines of the ,hermitage1 ,cahors1 ,languedoc1 and others2 one pot of white wine called ,muet 7wine whose fermentation had been stopped by the fumes of sulphur71 and one bottle of spirits of wine4 ,the wine is drawn off in ,december1 and then laid up in the chars 7cellars7 for some years4 ,by this operation the wines are rendered more spirituous and very strong1 they acquire a good flavour1 but are intoxicating4 ,the price1 likewise1 is increased4 8,the age of wine at ,bordeaux is counted par feuilles2 that is1 the number of times the vine has been in leaf since the vintage4 ,the years which the wines require to be kept vary1 but those of vins de ,graves do not reach perfection before the fifth or sixth40 ,this is a recent account2 but it will be well to hear what old ,barry1 who wrote ninety years ago1 says on the same subject4 ,after having perused his account it will appear that we1 at the commencement of the twentieth century1 are but practising1 with variations1 the tricks which our ancestors played centuries ago4 8,the ,french wine-merchants10 says ,barry1 8encouraged by the great demands for these ,claret wines1 first began to mix their inferior wines with the ,spanish2 and1 though there was a severe law forbidding this practice1 yet it was connived at1 as it increased the value and demand for them4 ,this encouraged some persons from hence and ,ireland to reside there as factors1 with a view1 at first1 of acquiring the profit arising from the large commissions which before had always been consigned to the ,french wine-merchants4 ,but these factors soon became wine-merchants likewise1 among whom it was usual to employ their tasters1 after the vintage was over1 to examine the new wines2 and1 when they had been properly informed1 purchased such a quantity as was sufficient to answer the demands they expected4 ,these were soon after mixed and prepared with the ,spanish wines1 which added more strength and flavour to them4 ,thus the price of them was gradually raised much higher than the wines of these growths had been formerly estimated4 ,what ,barry says about factors is perfectly true2 but a very old ,bordeaux wine-merchant and wine-grower informed me1 nearly forty years since1 that the factors of seventy years ago were principally ,irish and ,scotch1 and that there were at that period many ,irish and ,scotch among the proprietors of vineyards4 8,there were10 said he1 8,gernons1 ,byrnes1 ,cruises1 ,cassins1 ,m',donnells1 ,maxwells1 ,stewarts1 ,m',laurins1 among the factors2 and among the proprietors of vineyards ,cockburns1 ,m',kinnons1 ,kirwans1 ,frenches1 ,dalys1 ,walshes1 ,bogles1 ,archers1 and ,o',connors40 ,this may have accounted for the superiority which ,dublin and ,edinburgh obtained more than half a century ago over the ,london market in respect of ,claret1--a superiority which was attested by the great run made for these wines on the house of ,sneyd1 ,french1 and ,barton2 ,cockburn and ,co42 ,cranston and ,co42 ,stewart and ,co42 ,roche and ,co42 ,sir ,john ,ferns and ,co42 ,sir ,anthony ,perrier and ,co42 ,brook and ,co42 ,wilson and ,co41 and many others4 ,the excellence of the ,bordeaux wines was celebrated even in the days of ,ausonius1 and they have uniformly maintained their repute4 ,they are1 without any manner of doubt1 the most perfect wines that ,france produces4 ,they keep perfectly1 are improved by sea carriage1 and may be freely exported to any part of the world4 ,the original fermentation being usually very complete1 they are less disposed to acidity1 and are more wholesome than the wines of ,burgundy4 ,a great proportion of the wine1 however1 which is drunk as ,claret1 is but vin ordinaire1 or the secondary wine of the country1 for the prime growths fall far short of the demand which prevails for these wines all over the world4 ,in ,bordeaux the very best growths are scarce1 and cannot be purchased at less than from six to seven francs a bottle4 8,during the twenty years that ,i have been living at ,bordeaux10 says one of ,rozire's correspondents1 8,i have not tasted three times any wine of the first quality2 yet ,i am in the way of knowing it and getting it when it is to be had4 ,the wines of the year #aghd were so superior to those of other years1 that ,i have never met with anything like them40 ,whence comes the word ,claret8 ,from the ,french adjective clairet1 which in the feminine1 is clairette4 ,in the masculine it is only used of what is called a vin rouge paillet1 vinum rubellum sanguineum4 ,in this sense a man is said to be entre le blanc et le clairet1 i4e41 that he is entre deux vins4 ,hypocras was formerly called ,claret1 and is still so called in ,germany4 ,old ,cowel1 in his 8,interpreter10 says1 8,this denomination originates from claretum1 a liquor made anciently of wine and honey1 clarified by decoction1 which the ,germans1 ,french1 and ,english call hippocras1 and it is for this reason that the red wines of ,france were called ,claret40 ,in ,pegg's 8,cury0 there is an account of the rolls of provisions1 with their prices1 in the time of ,henry ,,viii41 and we there find at the dinner given at the marriage of ,gervys ,clifton and ,mary ,nevil1 the price of three hogsheads of wine 7one white1 one red1 one claret71 was set down at #el4 #es4 ,the department of the ,rhone produces the ,cte ,rti at a vineyard about seven leagues from ,lyons4 ,this a wine which possesses body1 spirit1 flavour1 and perfume4 ,if allowed to remain in the cask for five or six years1 it improves wonderfully4 ,it may then be bottled1 and will improve in bottle for twenty years4 ,the ,cte ,rti is a wine much drunk in ,switzerland and ,franche ,comt4 ,it is grown at ,ampuis1 and ranks as one of the best wines of ,france4 ,it is1 when young1 slightly bitter and rather heady1 but is much improved by a voyage4 ,the flavour somewhat resembles red ,hermitage1 and if it were generally imported into ,england1 it would be preferred to ,port by all who have a sound palate and liver4 ,tain1 four leagues from ,valence1 possesses the famous ,hermitage vineyard4 ,hermitage is divided into five classes4 ,it is not bottled for exportation till it has been four or five years in the cask4 ,the price of the wine is high1 even if the quality be moderate4 ,i am in possession of some obtained twenty years ago as a favour1 at #ifs4 a dozen1 from the ,prince ,charles de ,broglie1 and with freight1 carriage1 interest of money1 c41 it now stands me in at least seven guineas the dozen4 ,the white ,hermitage is made of white grapes only1 and is divided into three growths4 ,it is an exquisite and most delicious beverage1 and may be pronounced to be the finest white wine ,france produces4 ,white ,hermitage is said to keep a century4 ,i tasted some bought at the sale of the late ,marquess of ,londonderry's wines in ,st4 ,james's ,square1 which must be at least sixty years old1 and a more delicious wine was never produced at table4 ,the only difference between it and white ,hermitage of five years old is that the tint and colour are of a deep amber1 but in dryness1 richness1 and aroma1 it is unrivalled4 ,in #ahcf1 a few bottles of this wine1 which had been in the late ,marquess of ,wellesley's cellars since #ahjg1 was purchased by me2 but1 although a fine wine1 it was not to compare with the ,hermitage of the late ,lord ,londonderry1 better known as ,lord ,castlereagh4 ,the grape from which the red ,hermitage is made is supposed to have come originally from ,persia4#cf ,the vineyard was1 it is said1 planted by a hermit of ,bessas for his amusement4 ,richard and ,sons are among the first wine-merchants and bankers at ,tournon1 a town on the opposite side of the ,rhone to ,tain1 and joined to it by a suspension-bridge4 ,they export large quantities of the finest growth of ,hermitage to ,bordeaux to mix with the first growths of ,claret4 ,the largest wine-press in ,france belongs to this firm4 ,by one charge of it the proprietors can obtain forty casks of wine1 of about fifty gallons each4 ,one of the principal proprietors of the ,hermitage vineyards is a gentleman of ,irish descent1 a ,mr4 ,machon4 ,the soil on which the ,hermitage grows is highly calcareous1 and it is to this peculiarity1 as well perhaps as to the selection of the plants1 that the wine owes its superiority4 ,the labour bestowed in the vineyards is said to be unremitting4 ,the cost of wine cultivation in ,france is immense1 and it seldom happens that more than four or five per cent41 and frequently not more than two or three1 are returned to the landowner4 ,the ,german wines1 as a general description1 may be pronounced generous and finely flavoured1 rich in bouquet1 and the least acid among the northern wines4 ,they are1 however1 drier than the wines of ,france4 ,that they are what the ,french call vins de garde1 or wines that will keep1 is plainly apparent from the fact that the better qualities have been found perfect at eighty and even at a hundred years old4 ,the ,moselle wines are among the least acid of the ,german1 or indeed of the wines of any country4 ,the ,german jurist ,hontheim says the best ,moselle wines make men cheerful2 when drunk in quantity and old1 good2 the heat leaving the body and head without inconvenience and disorder4 ,rdesheim1 six leagues from ,mayence1 is said to produce the best wines in ,germany1 having more body1 strength1 and bouquet1 than those on the left bank of the ,rhine4 ,an auhm of #ahaa sells for #eel4 ,on the ,johannisberg wines it would be unnecessary to dilate here4 ,barry1 seventy years ago1 in speaking of the ,hock wines1 adduced1 as a circumstance that contributed to their advancement1 the fact that there was an annual addition of a due proportion of the recent and new wine of the same growth to the old wine4 ,in his day the best old ,hock sold at the price of #ejl4 the auhm4 ,the ,rhine wines of most strength are the ,marcobrunner1 ,rdesheimer1 and ,nierstiner4 ,the ,johannisberger1 ,geissenheim1 and ,hockheim have the most perfect delicacy and aroma4 ,the wines of ,bischeim1 ,asmanshausen1 and ,laubenheim1 are also light and agreeable4 ,the ,german proverb says1 8,rhein wein1 fein wein1 ,necker wein1 lecre wein1 ,franken wein1 tranken wein1 ,mosel wein1 unnosel wein40 ,but the wines of all wines are the ,julius ,hospitalis ,steinwein of #ahaa1 and the ,cabinet ,leinstenwein of #ahbb4 ,i remember in #ahbh and #ahbi drinking fine specimens of both at the ,three ,moors at ,augsburg 7a capital hotel71 and noting down that the price of the ,steinwein was four florins1 twenty-four kreutzers1 and of the ,leinstenwein five florins1 forty-eight kreutzers2 the one amounting nearly to #hs4 and the other fully to #is4 of our money4 ,they are both exquisite wines1 but are said to produce strangury4 ,switzerland grows little good wine4 ,the ,neufchtel would1 perhaps1 most please an ,english palate2 it is equal to the third quality of ,burgundy1 and has some resemblance to ,port without much body4 ,on the ,spanish wines ,i must be brief4 ,under the influence of the sun of a warm climate1 they contain more alcohol1 and are altogether differently prepared4 ,the grapes are suffered to become quite ripe1 and part of the must is concentrated by boiling it in large cauldrons for forty-four hours4 ,the ,spanish wines1 however1 with the exception of those of ,xeres and ,malaga1 are greatly neglected in the manufacture4 ,manzinilla1 the country wine of the district of ,xeres de la ,frontena1 is a light1 pleasant beverage1 not destitute of mellowness and flavour4 ,it is far preferable in every respect to those loaded1 coloured compounds which pass for ,sherries in ,london taverns4 ,the extent of the cellars of ,gordon and ,co41 of ,cadiz1 is immense4 ,the length of the largest #cjf feet1 and the breadth #bbb feet4 ,the ordinary stock of wine is said to be #djjj butts1 which is kept in casks of various sizes1 containing from one to four butts4 ,the wine merchants of ,xeres never exhaust their stock of finest and oldest wine4 ,a cask of wine1 said to be fifty years old1 may contain a portion of the vintages of thirty or forty seasons4 ,the better class of wine merchants at ,xeres never ship wine for ,england till it is two years old4 ,the higher qualities of ,sherry are made up of wine the bulk of which is from three to five years old2 and this is mixed in the older wines4 ,from the gradual mixture1 therefore1 of the wines of various ages1 no wine can be less a natural wine than ,sherry4 ,the ,amontillado is a dry kind of ,sherry1 abounding in a dry1 nutty flavour4 ,it is very light in colour1 and is often used to restore the colour of ,sherries of too deep a brown4 ,it sells much dearer than other ,sherry wines4 ,the ,malaga ,sherry very much resembles the wine of ,xeres1 and large quantities are exported to foreign countries as genuine ,sherry4 #bjjl4 have been paid for a first-rate cask of ,malaga4 ,on the ,portuguese wine called ,port ,i shall not waste many words4 ,when dry and old it is a good winter wine for old people1 if they restrict themselves to a glass or two4 ,a good glass of genuine ,madeira which has gone the rounds1 is good after soup1 but the wine is no longer fashionable4 ,the only ,italian wines worth drinking are the ,montefiascone1 ,montepulciano1 and ,vino d',asti4 ,many of these wines are too harsh1 and some of them are too thick and sweet for a ,french or ,english palate4 ,some of the wines of ,hungary are very tolerable4 ,the ,tokay wine is exquisite4 ,even the ,maslas1 which is a diluted ,tokay1 is a splendid wine2 soft1 oily1 and stomachic4 ,a glass of it may be had any day after dinner1 at about #aj;d4 or #as4 ,english1 in the ,speise ,saal of the ,schwann1 at ,vienna1 where ,i in my youth consumed many a bottle of ,tokay4 ,the ,vermuth is a stomachic mixture1 too much bepraised by those who have never tasted it2 indeed1 as much overpraised as the ,crme d',absinthe4 ,all the ,greek wines are also over-rated4 ,there are tuns of them not worth the amount of a farrier's yearly bill for shoeing a dog2 or if you wish the ,gallic phrase1 8ne valent pas les quatres fers d'un chien40 ,the ,constantia wine of the ,cape1 though much liked by ,frenchmen of seventy and upwards1 and ,frenchwomen above forty1 never can be generally a favourite with ,englishmen4 ,there are some few ,russian wines4 ,at ,kaffa1 in the ,crimea1 they produce a ,champagne very nearly as good as either the growth of the ,borough or ,lambeth4 ,of ,new ,south ,wales wines a word or two4 ,i learned with much pleasure that the ,french1 and all other wines1 are now tried in that colony2 and that the climate is particularly well suited to the growth of the vine4 ,the preparation and keeping of the wine must1 however1 be much more attended to than heretofore4 ,at the ,cape1 too1 the ,english wine-growers have gone on very progressively from year to year in ameliorating their ,pontacs4 ,the best white ,capes fetch1 since their flinty character is diminishing1 prices as high as ,sherries of middling qualities4 ,such prices were1 however1 encouraged perhaps by the import duties on colonial wine being only half the amount levied on foreign grown4 ,as these ,cape wines are now so pure as to mix well with ,xeres wines1 the conscientious ,london dealer1 of course1 largely availed himself of a colonial-grown article to mix with ,sherry wines for ,english country consumption4 ,two works have recently been published on wine1 in which may be found chapters dedicated to the wines of ,southern ,africa1 ,greece1 the ,western ,archipelago1 and to the wines of ,columbia1 ,australia1 c4 ,but notwithstanding these efforts to introduce new vintages from ,italy1 ,greece1 ,hungary1 ,australia1 and ,southern ,africa1 elderly and middle-aged men of the present generation are certain still to adhere to the old wines which their fathers and grandfathers consumed for the last half-century4 ,it may1 ,i think1 even be doubted whether the use of any new vintages can become general 7supposing them to be as good or better than the old7 before the end of the present century or ,a4,d4 #aijj1 from which coming epoch we are still removed by an interval of seven and thirty years4 ,it would1 therefore1 be the idlest of idle follies in me to recommend to any host to fill his cellar with new vintages of which his guests knew nothing1 and which they might not relish4 ,the aim of a host1 now as heretofore1 should be to have choice wines and liqueurs1 all excellent of their kind4 ,persons of moderate fortune should look to the excellence of the quality of the wines1 rather than to the variety of their stock4 ,with good bins of ,sherry1 ,madeira1 ,port1 ,claret 7white and red71 ,champagne1 ,hock1 and ,burgundy1 any gentleman is in a position to entertain his guests worthily4 ,larger quantities of ,sherry1 ,port1 ,madeira1 and first-rate ,claret1 may be laid in than of lighter wines1 for of these latter the consumption will be necessarily less4 ,at most ,london dinners in the season1 ,champagne1 ,sauterne1 ,barsac1 ,rhenish and ,moselle wines are produced2 but of the four latter wines scarcely more than a bottle of each is used1 though three or four bottles of ,champagne may be consumed1 in a party of twelve4 ,but1 notwithstanding that there is a more considerable consumption of ,champagne than of other light wines1 it is not advisable that any private gentleman should have a large stock of this wine in his cellar1 as after a twelvemonth it is apt to get ropy1 and to require fresh bottling4 ,but of the vins de garde1 such as ,madeira1 ,sherry1 ,port1 first-rate ,claret1 and ,burgundy1 a host may profitably cellar as large a quantity as his fortune will allow4 ,of one thing1 however1 every purchaser should convince himself before he purchases a single bottle1 and that is1 that it is impossible to have good wine at a low price4 ,the finest vintages of wine are always scarce and dear2 and the finest vintages must1 like other and inferior vintages1 be matured before they are fit to drink4 ,a considerable efflux of time is necessary for this1 so that there is interest on the original cost of the wine1 as well as the interest on its keep1 to be added to the prime or original cost4 ,this is so if the wine be imported direct from the wine-grower2 but if it be obtained from the merchant or dealer in this country1 his profit1 as well as the skill1 labour1 and industry he has applied1 must all be additional items in the price4 ,the idea of low-priced wine is therefore a mere myth2 and1 whether at the sales of private gentlemen's stock or otherwise1 good wine generally fetches its full value in ,london4 ,it is said that1 at the sales of deceased gentlemen in ,dublin and ,edinburgh1 few wines1 unless some exceedingly rare specimens1 fetch above #fjs4 per dozen2 but in ,london it is very common1 at private sales1 for ,port and ,sherry to fetch double as much as this4 ,the best way for any gentleman desiring to stock a cellar1 is to go to a first-rate wine merchant of position and character4 ,such a man will deal honestly1 and give his customer a good article1 though he may charge what is called in the trade a long price for it4 ,if gentlemen have personal friends or connections at ,cadiz in whom they can confide to send them wine in the piece1 they may lay in ,amontillado1 ,montilla1 or ,manzinilla1 at #ajs4 or #abs4 a dozen less than they can obtain them of the wine merchants in ,england4 ,anything like a first-rate ,amontillado sells among ,english wine merchants at from #gbs4 to #hds4 the dozen1 while ,manzinilla and ,montilla range at from #fjs4 to #gjs4 ,fabulous prices are given for old ,ports and ,east ,india ,sherries and ,madeiras1 at the sales of well-known connoisseurs in wine4 ,many ,east ,india ,sherries have sold for nine and ten guineas a dozen1 and much of the late ,mr4 ,justice ,talfourd's ,port went for eleven and twelve guineas a dozen4 ,though the wine was excellent1 this was unquestionably a fancy price4 ,there is no need to give so large a sum for old and first-rate ,port4 ,any man of ordinary acumen and intelligence1 in addressing himself to a first-rate wine house in ,london may have excellent1 if not first-rate1 ,port at from three to four guineas a dozen1 and considerably cheaper if he buys it in the wood4 ,first-rate ,clarets have been rising in price during the last five or six years2 but even in ,london first-rate ,clarets ought to be and are procurable at from four to five guineas a dozen1 and the best sparkling ,champagne at about the same price1 or a shade lower4 ,sillery ,champagne of the very highest quality is sold by wine merchants at #fl4 the dozen4 ,burgundies of the highest qualities are rare1 and difficult to find good2 but excellent ,beaune and ,chablis can be obtained at two guineas the dozen in ,london1 and considerably cheaper if imported direct4 ,as to the dietetic qualities of the wine1 ,i would remark that those wines which contain a sufficient quantity of alcohol1 and which have undergone a complete fermentation1 stimulate and accelerate digestion4 ,among these are ,madeira1 ,sherry1 ,port1 ,rhone1 and ,rousillon wines4 ,the most salutary wines are those which contain a moderate quantity of alcohol1 as old ,bordeaux1 ,burgundy1 and ,champagne4 ,the modern practice of taking a great variety of wines at table cannot be commended4 ,it is decidedly injurious to health and digestion1 more especially when sweet succeed to slightly acidulated wines1 or wines of much body to very light wines4 ,i should say that the best red ,burgundy was the ,romane ,conti1 and the best white the ,montrachet4 ,but good vintages of ,pomard1 ,volnay1 ,nuits1 and ,chambertin1 are excellent4 ,burgundy1 however1 is a wine of which only a small quantity should be drunk1 as it is very heating4 ,among the ,champagne wines the most esteemed growths are those of ,a1 ,sillery1 and ,epernay2 and among the ,rousillon and ,rhine wines1 red and white ,hermitage1 ,cte ,rti1 and ,st4 ,peray4 ,the best growths of ,bordeaux red wines are ,lafitte1 ,la ,tour1 ,chteau ,margaux1 and ,haut ,brion4 ,among the second class of red wines the best are the ,monton1 the ,rauzan1 and the ,loville2 and among the third class are the ,kirwan1 the ,chteau d',issan1 and ,lagrange4 ,a glass of ,chablis1 ,barsac1 ,sauterne1 or ,bucellas1 may be taken after the oysters1 while a glass of old ,madeira or ,sherry follows the soup4 ,in the middle of the first course1 in ,france1 they serve ,champagne or sparkling ,burgundy2 and toward the end of the first course1 the finer kinds of ,claret1 white and red4 ,with the roast comes ,burgundy and ,hermitage1 and these wines1 as well as ,bordeaux1 may be served with game4 ,with the dessert it is the custom in ,france to offer ,malmsey and ,malaga2 but these wines are rarely produced in ,england1 though white and red ,constantia1 and ,frontignan are frequently produced4 ,in the last sixteen years the consumption of ,champagne has doubled in ,england4 ,in #ahca1 the quantity of ,french wine imported amounted1 in round numbers1 to #bed1jjj gallons1 whereas in #ahfa it amounted to #b1bbg1jjj gallons4 ,illustration ,illustration ,,chapter ,,xxi4 ,,the ,,cellar ,,for ,,wines4 ,the cellar for good wine should be a suitable lodging for this welcome guest in every well arranged household4 ,a great deal of wine1 good and middling1 is spoiled beyond redemption from being deposited in a bad cellar4 ,there are many families in this great metropolis who1 if well lodged themselves1 never bestow a thought on how their wine is lodged4 ,yet this is a matter of essential importance if the master of a household consults his own health or the health of his guests4 ,a wine cellar should neither be too hot nor too cold4 ,it should neither be near the kitchen1 the scullery1 nor the laundry fire2 nor yet out of doors1 exposed to every change of temperature in this variable climate4 ,no gentleman valuing the quality of his wine1 or the health of those who are to drink it1 would convert a spare bed-room1 or cock-loft1 or cupboard into a wine cellar1 though in a warm climate ,madeira may be improved by being placed under the sun's rays on the leads of dwelling-houses1 a system much practised in the great cities of ,america4 ,a cellar1 as ,mr4 ,redding clearly and succinctly says1 8should be a cellar in material1 site1 temperature1 and solidity of construction40 ,the finer and more delicate wines grow turbid1 ropy1 or sharp when stowed away in unfitting localities4 ,in such a city as ,london1 all one can hope for or expect is to secure a cellar of an equal temperature1 solidly constructed of brick or stone4 ,the variations of the external atmosphere should not be allowed to penetrate within it4 ,as ,barry wrote ninety years ago1 8the structure of a wine cellar ought to be such as will most effectually defend the wine from the frequent variations of the external air1 adjacent fires1 and the agitation of carriages1 and to preserve an equal degree of heat1 though some variations must be unavoidable40 ,lighter wines require a colder cellar than the strong wines2 but1 as a general direction1 the temperature of a cellar ought to be from about forty to fifty degrees4 ,the size of a cellar ought to be in proportion to the quantity of wine for which it is designed4 ,the situation ought to be low and dry4 ,double doors are an advantage to every cellar1 as one may be closed before the other is opened1 and thus the changes of the external atmosphere cannot penetrate4 ,cellars in private houses are rarely ventilated1 and thus foul air is frequently generated4 ,in cities the back of the house is the best place for the wine cellar1 as the bottles are not then shaken in their bins by the motion of carriages4 ,no sink or sewer should be in the neighbourhood of a cellar1 and no vegetable or animal matter should be deposited adjacent to it4 ,a wine cellar should contain no other liquor than wine4 ,champagne should be carefully laid on laths or in sand1 and never placed on their bottoms1 as from this cause the wine will speedily lose its effervescence4 ,quarry sand is the best substance in which to imbed the bottles1 and laths should be placed between each tier4 ,illustration ,illustration ,,appendix4 ,,luxuries ,,of ,,the ,,table ,,in ,,france ,,and ,,in ,,england1 ,,in ,,medi,,val ,,and ,,modern ,,times4 ,according to ,brantome1 the first nobleman in ,france who introduced at court a more luxurious table was the ,marshal ,st4 ,andr4 ,the historian thus speaks of him3--8,et certes estoit par trop excessif en friandises et dlicatesse de viandes1 tant de chair que de poisson et autres friands mangers1 tellement que quelqu'un qui n'eust ouy que de sa vie dlicieuse n'eust jamais pu n'y en juger n'y croire qu'il fust est si ,grand ,capitaine40 ,among the kings of ,france1 the first who distinguished himself by this sumptuosity of fare was ,francis ,i41 and he carried his table extravagance to a foolish and absurd extent2 for besides the unequalled luxury of the royal table1 there were1 according to ,brantme1 the tables of the grand master1 of the great chamberlain1 of the chamberlain1 of the gentlemen of the chamber1 of the gentlemen servants1 and ever so many others4 ,the graphic memoir writer1 the ,seigneur de ,bourdeille adds3--8,et toutes si bien servies que rien n'y manquoit4 ,et ce qui estoit plus remarquable c'est que dans un village1 dans les forts1 dans les assembles1 l'on y estoit trait comme si l'on eust est dans ,paris40 ,henri ,,ii4 and ,francis ,,ii4 kept as good a table as their father and grandfather2 but things changed under ,charles ,,ix4 and ,henry ,,iii41 of whom ,brantme says1 8,c'tait par boutades que l'on y faisoit bonne chere1 car le plus souvent la marmit se renversoit2 chose que hait beaucoup le courtesan qui aime avoir bouche cour et l'arme parceque alors il ne lui conte rien40 ,henry ,,iv41 for a long time1 was as 8heinously unprovided0 7to use a ,shakespearian phrase7 as his royal predecessor4 ,his finances were so straitened1 say the 8,memoirs of the ,duke of ,angouleme10 8que souvent sa table manquoit1 et qu'il se trouvoit contraint d'aller manger chez quelqu'un de ses srviteurs40 ,louis ,,xiii4 established1 in a great degree1 the luxury of ,francis ,i42 and ,louis ,,xiv41 to use the words of ,le ,grand1 effaced even the remembrance of the repasts of the most luxurious of former kings1 by his elaborate feasts4 ,it was under his reign that 8collations grasses0 were eaten after dinner4 ,madame de ,svign writes1 in #afhj1 8,la ,princesse de ,tarente m'a faite une collation en viande2 je la lui ai rendue4 ,c'est une sotte mode2 je pense que cela ne durera pas40 ,blon1 who published his 8,trait des ,oiseaux10 in #aeee1 describes how magnificently the dinner tables were served in that day4 8,pour entres10 he says1 8nous avons mille petits deguisemens de chair comme potages1 fricasses1 hachis1 salades4 ,le second service est de rti1 de bouilli1 de diverses viandes1 tout de boucherie que de gibier4 ,pour issue de table choses froides comme fruictages1 laictages1 et doulceurs1 rissoles1 petits choux tout chauds1 petits gateaux caveux1 ratons de fromage1 pommes de capendu1 salade de citron ou de grenades40 ,gontier1 who wrote in the seventeenth century1 complains of the luxury of the dinners in #affh1 at which period1 he says1 there were no less than eight courses4 ,the 8,mercure ,galant0 gives a description of the royal banquet that was given at ,versailles1 for the marriage of ,mademoiselle de ,blois1 natural daughter of ,louis ,,xiv41 with the ,prince of ,conti4 ,at this feast there were three courses of #afj dishes at each course4 ,the first course was half soups and half entres2 the second1 half in entremets and half in roasts2 the third1 dessert4 ,the roasts were all small1 and the ortolans alone cost #af1jjj francs4 ,later in the reign of ,louis ,,xiv41 the mode of serving dinners in ,france a good deal resembled the system followed in the present day4 ,in the entertainment given by ,louvois to the ,queen at ,meudon1 covers were laid for nineteen1 and there were four courses4 ,the first course consisted of forty entres1 the second of forty roasts and salads1 the third of hot and cold entremets1 and the last course of dessert4 ,in the kitchen of ,louis ,,xv4 there were about thirty cooks employed1 and four ptissiers-bouche4 ,i now proceed to give a few bills of fare1 from the days of ,louis ,,xiv4 to the present time4 ,the first is the menu of a dinner given #bab years ago by ,matthew ,mol1 keeper of the seals in ,france to ,mons4 ,le ,prince ,louis de ,bourbon-,cond1 on the #ith ,august1 #afeb3-- ,,meneu ,,du ,,disner ,,qui ,,fust ,,donn ,,par ,,messire ,,mathieu ,,mol1 ,,garde ,,des ,,sceaux ,,de ,,france1 ,,monsieur ,,le ,,prince 7,,louis ,,de ,,bourbon-,,cond71 ,,le ,,samedi1 #i ,,out1 #afeb4 ,,xiv4 potages maigres1 dont #a aux crevisses du ,rhyn et vin d',espaigne1 et l'aultre aux huistres d',angoulesme et ufs de perdrix rouges1 lesquels servis aux deux costs de son ,altesse4 ,,xiv4 plats de poissons4 #a un saulmon de vingt escus4 #a brochet de #ai liures4 #a carpe aux ufs1 de ,champlastreux4 #a truite de ,suysse1 #bd liures4 #a turbot du ,hasvre de ,grasce4 #a matelotte de lamperoyes d',angers4 #a hochepot de gibiers de riuiesre4 #a gibelotte de poissons mesls4 #a anguille la broche1 #i liures #af sols4 #a past de barbottes du ,rhosne4 #a fricasse de lottes aux asperges4 #a de morue fraische aux groseilles uerdes4 #a d'aloses de ,rouen grilles4 #a d'esperlants farinns au cdrat4 ,,xiv4 plats de rost4 #f de poissons cuits au bleu4 #d de poissons la poisle4 #d de gibiers de riuiesre1 la broche4 ,,xiv4 sallades4 #c de lgumes cuits4 #c d'herbes uerdes4 #f d'ufs accommods diuersement4 #b de citrons musqus1 #aj escus4 ,,xiv4 assiettes gauffres4 #g de pastisseries fonds de cresme4 #g de pastisseries fonds de fruict4 ,,xviii4 jattes de fruicts et aultres1 desquels #f agnanats touts entiers et #ab pacquets de fleurs de joncquilles confire4 ,dont cxii4 escus pour le coust d'yceulx fruicts et fleurs1 et pour le tout de la despense gnralle1 mil neuf cens soixante et cinq liures1 et unze sols1 ,que certifie iuste et uallable3 ,,maugis4 ,apprevvay cette partie de ,mavgis4 ,bon povr #aife livres #aa sols1 que playra payer lvy maistre ,lordier de ,lestanville4 ,,mol4 ,the second is the menu of a supper of the ,regent ,orleans1 moiti gras1 moiti maigre3-- ,,menu ,d',,une ,,table ,,de ,,douze ,,couverts1 ,,pour ,,un ,,souper ,,du ,r,,gent1 ,,servi ,,moiti ,,gras1 ,,moiti ,,maigre4 ,pour le milieu une grosse pice1 ,deux potages pour les bouts de table3 ,dix entres1 savoir1 quatre jattes et six plats festons1 c4 ,,premier ,,service4 #a pice de buf sal1 garnie de carottes et de patates4 ,deux potages1 savoir3 #a maigre1 coulis de brochet 7un brochet74 #a de navets 7un canard dessus74 ,dix entres1 savoir3 quatre dans quatre jattes1 et six dans six plats festons4 ,les quatre jattes1 savoir3 #a de filets de mouton glacs et piqus1 et des cornichons par-dessus4 #a de poulets piqus de persil1 avec une sauce l'espagnole dessous 7#b poulets74 #a de brochets la polonaise 7un brochet74 #a de perches la gnevoise 7#f perches1 une bouteille de vin blanc74 ,les six plats festons1 savoir3 #a de saurcrote au maigre 7un brochet74 #a quarteron d'hutres1 cuites avec une pinte de crme4 #a d'une noix de veau la napolitaine4 #a de perdreaux en levraut 7#c perdreaux74 #a d'anguilles la bavaroise 7#b belles anguilles74 #a demi-cent de belles crevisses4 ,deux plats de poissons pour relever les potages1 savoir3 #a d'une carpe l'anglaise4 #a de ,water ,fisch 7#b douzaines de petites perches1 quatre petits brochetons74 ,,second ,,service4 #a reins de sanglier marins4 ,deux plats de ptisserie1 savoir3 #a d'un gteau fourr de marmelade d'abricots4 #a d'une tourte la glace 7#f pches l'eau-de-vie1 une pinte de crme74 ,quatre plats de rt1 savoir3 #a d'perlans frits1 tremps dans des ufs et pans4 #a de #b poulardes4 #a de soles frites 7#b belles soles74 #a de #b canards sauvages4 ,quatre salades diffrentes avec quatre diffrentes sauces4 ,quatre petits entremets chauds1 savoir3 #a de ris de veau piqus et glacs 7#f ris de veau74 #a de pieds de cochon la ,sainte-,mnhould4 #a de petits pois secs la crme1 d'ufs pochs dessus4 #a de pommes de reinette la chinoise 7#f oranges confites74 ,the following is the menu of a supper of ,louis ,,xv4 at ,la ,muette1 on #ahth ,february1 #agdi3-- ,,souper ,,du ,,roi ,,louis ,,xv4 ,,la ,,muette1 ,,le ,,samedi1 #ah ,f,,vrier1 #agdi4 ,deux grandes entres4 ,un rble de mouton de montagne4 ,un quartier de veau1 une blanquette dans le cuisseau4 ,deux oilles4 #a au riz4 #a la jambe de bois4 ,deux potages4 #a la faubonne4 #a aux choux verts4 ,seize entres4 #a de ctelettes mles4 #a de petits pts la ,bchameil4 #a de langues de moutons la duchesse4 #a de petits pigeons aux truffes entires4 #a de haricot de mouton aux navets4 #a de boudins d'crevisses4 #a de filets de poularde la d',armagnac4 #a de matelote la ,dauphine4 #a de noix de veau aux pinards4 #a de membres de faisan la ,conty4 #a de filets de perdreau la ,prigueux4 #a de petits poulets l',urlubie4 #a de ris de veau la ,sainte-,mnhould4 #a sarcelles l'orange4 #a lapereaux en crpines4 #a poules de ,caux en escalopes4 ,quatre relevs4 #a dindonneau la peau de goret1 sauce ,robert4 #a pt de bcassines4 #a quartier de sanglier4 #a noix de buf aux choux-fleurs4 ,deux grands entremets4 #a pt de jambon4 #a gteau de ,savoie4 ,quatre moyens4 #b de buissons d'crevisses4 #b gteaux au fromage4 ,huit plats de rts non mention-ns4--,seize entremets4 #a de cardes au jus4 #a de crtes au bouillon4 #a d'amourettes4 #a de foies gras grills4 #a de ragots mls la crme4 #a de crme au chocolat4 #a d'abaisse de massepain4 #a d'ufs l'infante4 #a d'hutres au gratin4 #a de pattes de dindon l'espagnole4 #a d'asperges4 #a de truffles la cendre4 #a de crme glace4 #a de canelons meringus4 #a de choux-fleurs4 ,here is a ,carte ,dinatoire for twelve persons1 for the table of the ,citoyen ,directeur et ,gnral ,barras1 le ,dcadi1 trente floral3-- ,,carte ,,dinatoire ,,pour ,,la ,,table ,,du ,,citoyen ,,directeur ,,et ,g,n,,ral ,,barras1 ,,le ,d,,cadi1 #cj ,,flor,,al4 ,,douze ,,personnes4 7,autographes de ,m4 ,thodore ,vivien47 #a potage4 #a relev4 #f entres4 #b plats de rt4 #f entremets4 #a salade4 #bd plats de dessert4 99 99 99 99 99 ,le potage aux petits ognons la ci-devant minime4 ,le relev2 un tronon d'esturgeon la broche4 ,les six entres4 #a d'un saut de filets de turbot l'homme de confiance ci-devant matre-d'htel4 #a d'anguilles la tartare4 #a concombres farcis la moelle4 #a vol-au-vent de blanc de volaille la ,bchameil4 #a d'un ci-devant ,saint-,pierre1 sauce aux cpres4 #a de filets de perdrix en anneaux4 ,les deux plats de rt4 #a de goujons du dpartement4 #a d'une carpe au court-bouillon4 ,les six entremets4 #a d'ufs la neige4 #a de betteraves blanches1 sautes au jambon4 #a d'une gele au vin de ,madre4 #a de beignets de crme la fleur d'orange4 #a de lentilles la ci-devant ,reine1 la crme au blond de veau4 #a de culs d'artichauts la ravigote4 #a salade2 cleri en rmoulade4 ,trop de poisson4 ,otez les goujons4 ,le reste est bien4 ,qu'on n'oublie pas encore de mettre des coussins sur les siges pour les citoyennes ,tallien1 ,talma1 ,beauharnais1 ,hinguerlot et ,mirande4 ,et pour cinq heures trs-prcises4 ,sign ,,barras4 ,faites venir des glaces de ,veloni4 ,je n'en veux pas d'autres4 ,here is a menu of a dinner served to the ,emperor ,napoleon and his family1 on the ,samedi ,saint1 #ahaa3-- ,,menu ,d',,un ,d,,ner ,,de ,,la ,,famille ,,bonaparte1 ,,aux ,,tuileries4 ,deux potages4 ,au macaroni et pure de marrons4 ,deux relevs4 ,une pice de buf bouillie1 garnie de lgumes4 ,un brochet la ,chambord4 ,quatre entres4 ,ctelettes de mouton la ,soubise4 ,perdreaux la ,montglas4 ,fricasse de poulet la chevalire4 ,filets de canard au fumet4 ,deux rtis4 ,un chapon au cresson4 ,un gigot d'agneau4 ,deux plats de lgumes4 ,des choux-fleurs au gratin4 ,du cleri-navet au jus4 ,quatre entremets au sucre4 ,crme au caf4 ,gele d'orange4 ,gnoise dcore4 ,gauffres l'allemande4 ,now comes the first dinner en maigre which ,louis ,,xviii4 had at ,compiegne4 ,it is certainly a most recherch one3-- ,,premier ,,diner ,,du ,,roi ,,louis ,,xviii41 ,,compiegne4 7,en ,maigre47 ,quatre potages4 ,potage de poisson la provenale4 ,nouilles l'essence de racines4 ,potage la d',artois l'essence de racines4 ,filets de lottes aux crevisses4 ,quatre relevs de poissons4 ,croquettes de brochet la ,bchameil4 ,vol-au-vent garni de brandade de morue aux truffes4 ,filets de soles la ,dauphine4 ,orly de filets de carrelets4 ,quatre grosses pices4 ,turbot au beurre d'anchois4 ,grosse anguille la ,rgence4 ,bar la vnitienne4 ,saumon1 sauce aux hutres4 ,trente-deux entres4 ,escalopes de truites aux fines herbes4 ,saut de filets de plongeons au suprme4 ,vol-au-vent de poissons la ,nesle4 ,petites caisses de foies de lottes4 ,les croquettes de brochets4 ,raie boucle la hollandaise4 ,bayonnaise de filets de soles4 ,quenelles de poisson l'italienne4 ,grondins grills1 sauce au beurre4 ,la grosse anguille la ,rgence4 ,blanquette de turbot la ,bchameil4 ,pain de carpes au beurre d'crevisses4 ,salade de filets de brochet aux laitues4 ,filets d'alose l'oseille4 ,la marinade de bonne morue4 ,plies la poulette4 ,pt chaud de lamproies4 ,pluviers de mer en entre de broche4 ,brme la matre-d'htel4 ,rougets la hollandaise4 ,filets de sarcelles la bigarade4 ,timbale de macaroni garnie de laitances4 ,eminc de turbotin gratin4 ,les filets de soles la ,dauphine4 ,perches au vin de ,champagne4 ,darne d'esturgeon au beurre de ,montpelier4 ,turban de filets de merlans la ,conty4 ,escalopes de morue la provenale4 ,la bar la vnitienne4 ,papillotes de surmulet la d',huxelles4 ,boudins de poisson la ,richelieu4 ,vives froides la provenale4 ,saut de lottes aux truffes4 ,la orly de filets de carrelets4 ,caisse d'hutres aux fines herbes4 ,escalopes de barbue en croustade4 ,filets de poules d'eau la bourguignonne4 ,eperlans l'anglaise4 ,quatre grosses pices d'entremets4 ,l'hermitage indien4 ,le pavillon rustique4 ,le pavillon hollandais4 ,l'hermitage russe4 ,quatre plats de rts pour les contre-flancs4 ,aiguillettes de goujons4 ,poules de mer4 ,sarcelles au citron4 ,petites truites au bleu4 ,trente-deux entremets4 ,cleri l'essence maigre4 ,gele de punch4 ufs brouills aux truffes4 ,petits nougats de pommes4 ,les aiguillettes de goujons4 ,gteau renvers au gros sucre4 ,truffes l'italienne4 ,pudding au vin de ,malvoisie4 ,choux-fleurs au parmesan4 ,l'hermitage ,indien4 ,laitues au jus de racines4 ,blanc-manger la crme4 ,buisson de homards4 ,gteaux glacs la ,cond4 ,les poules de mer4 ,petits souffls de fcule4 ufs pochs la ravigote4 ,gele de citrons moule4 ,champignons l'espagnole4 ,concombres au velout4 ,gele de caf ,moka4 ufs pochs aux pinards4 ,gnoises en croissant perles4 ,les sarcelles au citron4 ,gteaux glacs aux pistaches4 ,crevettes en hrisson4 ,fromage bavarois aux abricots4 ,les pommes de terre la hollandaise4 ,l'hermitage ,russe4 ,cardes au jus d'esturgeon4 ,pommes au riz glaces4 ,truffes la serviette4 ,petits gteaux de ,pithiviers4 ,les petites truites au bleu4 ,panaches en diadme au gros sucre4 ,petites omelettes la pure de champignons4 ,gele des quatre fruits4 ,salsifis la ravigote4 ,pour extra1 dix assiettes de petits souffls en croustades4 ,souffls aux macarons amers4 ,souffls l'orange4 ,dessert4 #h ,corbeilles et #aj corbillons4 #ab ,assiettes montes4 #aj ,compotiers4 #bd ,assiettes et #f jattes4 ,there is now the bill of fare of the dinner given by the ,emperor ,alexander1 on his birthday1 at ,vertus1 near ,chalns1 on the #aath ,september1 #ahae4 ,covers were laid for #cjj1 and the dinner began with #fjj plates of oysters1 for which #cjj lemons were provided3-- ,,diner ,,de ,l',,empereur ,,alexandre1 ,,vertus1 ,,pr,s ,,chalons-,,sur-,,marne1 ,,le #aa ,,septembre1 #ahae1 ,,jour ,,anniversaire ,,de ,,la ,,naissance ,,de ,,sa ,,majest4 7,table de #cjj couverts1 servie la russe47 #fjj assiettes d'hutres1 #cjj citrons4 ,,premier ,,service4 ,les hutres1 les citrons4 ,trois potages4 ,potage la jardinire pour #aej personnes4 ,soupe froide la russe pour #aej personnes4 ,crcy aux petits crotons pour #aej personnes4 ,vingt-huit hors-d'uvres4 ,de petits vol-au-vent la pure de gibier4 ,vingt-huit entres froides4 ,de galantines de poulardes la gele4 ,vingt-huit grosses pices4 ,de filets de buf au vin de ,madre1 demi-espagnole4 ,cent douze entres4 #ej de filets de soles la ,orly1 garnis d'une escalope de saumon4 #ab de cailles aux fines herbes dans des bordures de racines4 #be de sauts de poulets au suprme1 ragot la ,toulouse4 #be de timbales de macaronis au chasseur4 ,vingt-huit plats de rts4 #aj de poulets gras1 #aj de dindonneaux1 #h longes de veau4 #fj salades pour #cjj personnes4 ,cinquante entremets de lgumes4 #be d'pinards au velout4 #be de haricots verts l'anglaise4 ,cinquante-six entremets au sucre4 ,de crmes franaises la vanille et de gnoises aux amandes pralines4 ,huit souills d'extra pour tre placs porte de ,s4 ,m4 ,impriale4 #fj assiettes de ptisseries de petit four4 #fj assiettes de fruits crus4 #fj assiettes de fruits confits4 #fj assiettes de fruits l'eau-de-vie4 #bj assiettes de fromages de ,france1 c4 ,underneath is the bill of fare of the first diplomatic dinner given by the ,duke of ,wellington1 when ambassador in ,paris1 in #ahae4 ,it will be seen that the fare was simple1 and most of the dishes dressed in the ,english fashion3-- ,,premier ,d,,ner ,,diplomatique ,,de ,l',,ambassadeur ,d',,angleterre ,,paris4 ,,menu ,d',,un ,,service ,l',,anglaise ,,pour #bj ,,couverts4 ,,premier ,,service4 ,potage4 #a potage de tte de veau en fausse tartine4 ,deux bouts de table4 #a d'un dindon bouilli1 sauce au cleri4 #a rosbif aux pommes de terre4 ,six entres4 #a d'une tranche de saumon bouillie1 sauce aux cpres4 ,pure de navets4 #a de deux lapereaux1 sauce aux ognons4 ,choux-fleurs sans sauce4 #a de quatre escalopes de veau4 #a de maquereaux bouillis1 sauce au fenouil4 ,epinards bouillis l'anglaise4 #a deux poulets1 sauce au persil4 ,pure de pommes de terre4 #a de perdreaux tuvs4 ,bread sauce4 ,,second ,,service4 ,milieu4 #a quartier de chevreuil la broche1 sauce la gele de groseilles4 #a d'une poularde rtie4 #a d'un levraut farci4 ,deux salades4 #a d'herbes vertes4 #a de citrons entiers4 ,six entremets4 #a d'une gele de vin de ,madre4 #a d'un plum-pudding4 #a d'une tourte aux confitures4 #a de welches rabbits4 #a d'un pudding de riz4 #a d'une gele de citrons4 ,treize assiettes de dessert4 #b compotes4 #d assiettes de fruits crus4 #b de biscuits4 #b de mendiants4 #b de fromages4 #a assiette monte4 ,i conclude ,french bills of fare with a menu of a royal banquet given at the ,tuileries1 on ,twelfth-day1 #ahbj1 at which ,louis ,,xviii41 ,monsieur 7afterwards ,charles ,x471 and the ,duchess of ,angouleme1 the ,duke and ,duchess of ,berri1 the ,duke and ,duchess of ,orleans1 the ,duke and ,duchess of ,bourbon were present3-- ,,menu ,,du ,,grand-,,couvert1 ,,ou ,,banquet ,,royal ,,aux ,,tuileries1 ,,pour ,,le ,,jour ,,des ,,rois1 #f ,,janvier1 #ahbj4 ,deux potages4 ,printanier de sant4 ,bisque d'crevisses4 ,quatre grosses pices4 ,faon de daim la broche4 ,turbot1 sauce aux hutres et aux moules4 ,carpe la ,rgence4 ,casserole au riz la ,saint-,hubert4 ,seize entres4 ,filets glacs aux laitues4 ,saut de filets de perdreaux aux truffes4 ,grenadins de filets de lapereaux la ,toulouse4 ,ctelettes de chevreuil la ,soubise4 ,filets de lottes la ,villeroy1 sauce vnitienne4 ,quenelles de volailles au consomm rduit4 ,attelets la ,bellevue la gele4 ,escalopes de levrauts au sang4 ,poularde l'estragon4 ,cremeskis au velout4 ,blanquette 7le filets de poulardes la ,conty4 ,perches la waterfisch4 ,poulets la ,reine la ,chevry4 ,petits pts la ,bchameil4 ,filets d'agneaux aux pointes d'asperges4 ,pure de gibier la polonaise4 ,quatre grosses pices4 ,buisson d'crevisses4 ,sultane la ,chantilly4 ,souffl au fromage4 ,jambon de sanglier glace4 ,quatre plats de rts4 ,faisans de ,bohme4 ,perdreaux rouges4 ,eperlans frits4 ,bcasses du ,morvan4 ,seize entremets4 ,asperges en branches4 ,choux-fleurs au parmesan4 ,champignons la provenale4 ,truffes au vin de ,champagne4 ,laitues l'essence4 ,epinards au consomm4 ,salade la pimontaise4 ,concombres au consomm4 ,gele d'oranges4 ,crme l'anglaise4 ,pannequets aux citrons confits4 ufs pochs au jus4 ,gteaux souffls4 ,macaroni l'italienne4 ,pommes au beurre de ,vanvres4 ,gaufres la flamande4 ,deux plombires1 extra4 ,dessert4 #h corbeilles1 #d corbillons1 et le reste en proportion de cette donne4 ,at the period when luxurious tables became prevalent in ,france1 good cheer also prevailed in ,london4 ,in the time of ,queen ,mary1 according to ,maitland1 luxury prevailed to such an excessive degree in the sumptuousness and extravagance of the city magistrates1 that many of the principal citizens chose rather to retire into the country than to serve expensive offices4 ,it was enacted by the ,common ,council1 to prevent such extravagances1 that the mayor should have no more than one course either at dinner or supper2 and that on a festival day1 a flesh day1 a repast was to consist of no more than seven dishes1 whether hot or cold2 and on every festival day being a fish day1 of eight dishes2 and on every common flesh day1 six dishes2 and on every common fish day1 seven dishes1 exclusive of brawn1 collops with eggs1 salads1 potage1 butter1 eggs1 herrings1 sprats1 and shrimps1 together with all sorts of shell-fish and fruits4 ,regulations were also issued for the aldermen1 sheriffs1 and ,city companies at their several entertainments4#cg ,they were to have neither swan1 crane1 nor bustard under the penalty of forty shillings4 ,during the reign of ,elizabeth1 the city venison feasts became offensive to the queen and her nobility4 ,in consequence1 a letter1 signed by the ,lord ,mayor and two aldermen1 was addressed to ,lord ,burleigh1 in which these officials say1 8,for avoyding the excessive spending of venison and other vitail in the halles of this citie1 which we understand to have been offensive to her matie and the nobilitie1 we have by act of common counsel forbidden such festes hereafter to be kept1 and have restrained the same only to necessary metinges in wh also venison is permitted as by copie of this act herewith sent into yr ,l4 may appere40 ,these worshipful personages go on to assure ,lord ,burleigh that1 unless similar proceedings be adopted in ,st4 ,martin's and ,westminster1 the restraints imposed on the ,city of ,london would be of little use4 ,the golden age of cookery in modern times in ,england1 however1 was the reign of ,queen ,anne4 ,the ,queen herself was fond of good eating1 and elaborate feasts became the custom among the nobility1 gentry1 and wealthy traders4 ,in this reign it was that ,dr4 ,king published his 8,art of ,cookery10 in imitation of ,horace's 8,art of ,poetry10 making an attempt to introduce ,french dishes4 ,in an oft-quoted passage of his poem he says3-- 8,the ,french our relish help1 and will supply ,the want of things too gross by decency4 ,our fathers most admired their sauces sweet1 ,and often asked for sugar with their meat2 ,they butter'd currants on fat veal bestow'd1 ,and rumps of beef with virgin honey strew'd40 ,sir ,john ,hill1 ,m4,d41 followed ,dr4 ,king1 with 8,mrs4 ,glasse's ,cookery ,book10 in which are some few receipts for ,french dishes4 ,the great ,lord ,chesterfield1 however1 was the first nobleman who made the most strenuous efforts to introduce ,french cookery4 ,he engaged as his cook ,la ,chapelle1 a descendant of the famous cook of ,louis ,,xiv4 ,la ,chapelle published a treatise on cookery in three volumes1 which is now very rarely met with4 ,it is entitled 8,the ,modern ,cook10 by ,vincent ,la ,chapelle1 chief cook to the ,earl of ,chesterfield1 and was printed for the author in #agcc1 and sold by ,nicholas ,prevost1 a ,frenchman1 over against ,southampton ,street1 in the ,strand4 ,about the period of the publication of this book1 ,lord ,chesterfield was lord steward of the household to ,george ,,ii41 and undoubtedly was the most renowned and fashionable host in ,london4 ,his dinners and suppers were then deemed perfection2 and these entertainments were one of the few items in which his expenditure was liberal4 ,lord ,chesterfield lived till #aggc1 and ,i more than once heard the late ,earl of ,essex say1 more than thirty years ago1 at ,brookes's ,club1 that he remembered as a boy of fourteen or fifteen seeing the ,earl seated on a rustic seat1 inhaling the air outside the court-yard of his house in ,may ,fair4 ,chesterfield ,house was ninety-one years ago at the very extremity of ,london1 and all beyond it was an expanse of green fields4 ,the table of twenty or twenty-five covers was one of the noble earl's official dinners1 but the supper was for a party of intimate friends3-- ,a ,,table ,,of ,,twenty ,,or ,,twenty-,,five ,,covers1 ,,served ,,with ,,twenty-,,nine ,,dishes4 ,,first ,,course4 ,the middle of the table4 ,a surtout in the middle4 #a ,piece of beef garnished with attelets4 #a quarter of veal with gravy4 ,two terrines4 #a of fillets of pikes with crayfish4 #a of a matellotte of one eel and two carps1 and two large pikes4 ,two pots of oli4 #a of water4 #a of roots with oil4 ,two terrines4 #a of fillets of soles4 #a of fillets of eels4 ,at each of the tables #b dishes of petits ptes4 ,four soops4 #a of bisque of cray-fish4 #a of muscles4 #a of pottage de ,sant4 #a soop1 7 la ,st4 ,cloud47 ,eight entries1 four with meat1 and four in meager4 #a of chickens1 ,italian sauce4 #a of young turkeys with trufles4 #a of fricandoes of veal glazed4 #a of pheasants1 with a carp sauce1 a carp4 ,the four meager dishes4 #a of a pudding of old ling 7 la ,muscovite74 #a of carps forc'd 7 la ,dauphine71 #c carps4 #a of eels rowl'd1 #a eel4 #a of tenches 7 la ,ste4 ,menehout74 ,eight small dishes of melons1 figs1 and radishes4 ,four removes for the soops4 #a of pikes 7 la ,civita ,vecchia74 #a of perches1 the ,dutch way4 #a of trouts 7 la ,genoise74 #a of turbot broil'd1 with shalot sauce1 and oil4 ,to remove the eight small dishes of melons1 figs1 and radishes4 #a of lottes with champagne4 #a of soles1 the ,italian way4 #a of sturgeon roasted1 sharp sauce4 #a of fillets of pikes1 with an ,italian sauce4 ,four of meat4 #a of quails with oil4 #a of young partridges1 the ,spanish way4 #a of pigeons 7 la d',huxelles74 #a of fillets of fowls with cray-fish4 ,,second ,,course4 ,for the large entremets for the middle of the table4 #a ham pasty4 #a turkey pasty4 #a salmon4 #a turbot4 #b of cray-fish4 ,for the two sides of the table4 #a ,savoy cake4 #a croquante4 ,eight dishes of roast1 viz41 four of meat and four meager4 #a of #f chickens 7 la ,reine74 #a of fowls4 #a of #f young partridges4 #a of #d wood pigeons4 #d sallets and #d sauces4 ,the four meager4 #a of soles fry'd in oil4 #a of barbots4 #a of trouts4 #a of fry'd pikes4 ,,third ,,course4 ,eight entremets1 to remove the eight dishes of roast4 #a of small loaves of pistaches4 #a of ,puis d',amour4 #b ,tourtes 7 la ,glace74 #b of ,turkey caps4 #a of ,crme souffle4 #a of ,crme veloute4 ,eight hot entremets to remove the four sallets and four sauces4 #b of trufles1 the ,italian way4 #b of lamb-stones4 #b of little artichokes1 in surprize4 #b of quisselles4 ,a ,,bill ,,of ,,fare ,,for ,a ,,supper ,,of ,,fifteen ,,or ,,sixteen ,,covers1 ,,served ,,up ,,with ,a ,,great ,,dish1 ,,two ,,middling1 ,,four ,,small1 ,,and ,,six ,,hors ,d',,uvre4 ,,first ,,course4 ,for the middle4 #a quarter of veal in cawl4 ,two pots of oli1 one for each end4 #a la jambe de bois4 #a with rice and cray-fish cullis4 ,four entries4 #a of pullets 7 la ,montmorency74 #a of partridges1 the ,spanish way4 #a of young ducks with orange-juice4 #a of pigeons 7 la d',huxelles74 ,six small dishes4 #a of mutton-cutlets1 glaz'd with endive4 #a of fricando's of veal1 glaz'd with sellery4 #a of popiettes1 the ,italian way4 #a of larks1 the ,muscovite way4 #a of fillets of soles with champain4 #a of eels1 glaz'd with an ,italian sauce ,to remove the two pots of oli4 #a of a turbot1 glaz'd4 #a of a jowl of salmon boiled1 with shrimp-sauce4 ,,second ,,course4 ,entremets4 #a of a roasted ham for the middle4 ,for both ends of the table4 #a of a ,savoy cake4 #a of a cake of mille feuilles4 ,four dishes of roast fowl4 #a of turkeys4 #a of fowls4 #a of partridges4 #a of young pigeons1 dress'd like ortolans4 ,four sallets and #b sauces4 ,,third ,,course4 ,ten hot small entremets to remove the sauces1 sallets1 and roast-meat4 #a of cray-fish1 the ,italian way4 #a of sweetbreads of veal 7 la ,dauphine74 #a of artichokes1 the ,italian way4 #a of green pease4 #a of lamb-stones4 #a of anchovies in ,canapp4 #a of cocks' combs4 #a of ducks' tongues4 #a of ,peaux d',espagne4 #a of eggs with gravy4 ,sixteen or seventeen years after the death of ,lord ,chesterfield1 a great number of ,french refugees of the highest family1 who had emigrated in consequence of the ,revolution to ,england1 mixed much in ,english society1 and the consequence was that ,french cookery became more prevalent4 ,several of our nobility vied with each other in entertaining the ,french princes1 the ,count de ,lille1 and the ,count d',artois 7afterwards ,louis ,,xviii4 and ,charles ,x471 and also the ,dukes of ,cond and ,bourbon4 ,among the foremost of these were the ,marquis of ,buckingham and the ,earl of ,moira1 both of whom expended vast sums in these hospitalities4 ,the ,count de ,lille and others of his family occupied1 in #ahjg1 ,gossfield ,house1 near ,high ,garret1 in ,essex1 a seat belonging to the ,marquis of ,buckingham2 and in #ahjh these princes were received with the most splendid marks of hospitality at the princely mansion of ,stowe1 where their residence was commemorated by a ,latin inscription4 ,for several months there was a dinner prepared daily for ,louis ,,xviii41 the ,count d',artois1 the ,duke d',angoulme1 the ,duke of ,berry1 the ,duke of ,orleans1 the ,count de ,beaujolais1 the ,prince of ,cond1 and the ,duke of ,bourbon4 ,but ,stowe was a scene of even greater festivity in #ahje1 when the ,heir ,apparent 7afterwards ,george ,,iv471 the ,duke of ,clarence 7afterwards ,william ,,iv471 with ,mr4 ,fox1 and all the members of the new coalition1 were present4 ,on this occasion #hjj persons were invited4 ,grand entertainments were given during several successive days2 illuminations took place in the evening1 and the grotto in which their ,royal ,highnesses supped was illuminated with from #aj1jjj to #ae1jjj lamps4 ,at the ,christmas dinner of the ,duke of ,buckingham1 in #ahjh1 ,louis ,,xviii4 was present1 and the following was the bill of fare1 as prepared by ,mr4 ,simpson1 the duke's cook4 ,it is undoubtedly more substantial than elegant4 ,,bill ,,of ,,fare4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------------------ ,,first ,,course4 ,,second ,,course4 ,rice ,soup1 ,four ,partridges4 removed with a ---------------------------------- ,,turkey ,,and ,,truffles4 ,carmel ,basket ,savoy ,cake4 ---------------------------------- with ,pastry4 ,semels ,souffle1 ,beef ,collops ---------------- ---------------- and poivrade la ,tortue and sauce4 ,truffles4 ---------------- ---------------- ---------------- ---------------- ,cauliflower la ,jerusalem ,arti- ,flamond4 chokes la ---------------- ---------------- ,crme4 ,three ,sweet- ,poulard la ---------------- ---------------- breads larded1 ,daube1 larded1 and asparagus and mushrooms4 ---------------- ---------------- peas4 ,a ,cheesecake4 ,mince ,pies4 ---------------- ---------------- ---------------- ---------------- ---------------- ---------------- ---------------- ---------------- ,three ,chickens ,leg of ,lamb1 ,spinage and ,french ,beans4 la ,reine4 and haricot ,croutons4 beans4 ---------------- ---------------- ---------------- ---------------- --------- --------- ,s c ,s w --------- --------- o w h o i o ,s u i i u t f i ,p p t n p h x h 1 h e 1 v e 1 -------- a e ,s -------- a r a ,frame4 r n n ,frame4 ,a s e r -------- e h i i -------- a m b o m a s p n o a a o u o e t v c s v n n s 4 e o t e c 4 4 d n e d h --------- --------- d --------- --------- ---------------- ---------------- ---------------- ---------------- ,a ,neat's ,three ,chickens1 ,asparagus4 ,red ,cabbage ,tongue4 and celery4 l',alemand4 ---------------- ---------------- ---------------- ---------------- ---------------- ---------------- ---------------- ---------------- ,two ,rabbits ,mince ,pies4 ,apricot ,tourte4 la ,portuguez ,grenadines1 ---------------- ---------------- larded1 and and endive4 sorrel sauce4 ---------------- ---------------- ---------------- ---------------- ,ragout ,mell4 ,mushrooms4 ---------------- ---------------- ---------------- ---------------- ,a ,souties of ,petit ,pts of ---------------- ---------------- ,mutton1 and ,oysters4 ,chantillie ,cake4 ,carmel ,basket1 cucumber4 with meringues4 ---------------- ---------------- ---------------- ---------------- ,giblet ,soup1 removed with a ,two ,guinea ,fowls3 one larded4 ,,sirloin ,,of ,,beef4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------------------ ,of ,french cookery the ,prince ,regent was during his life a great admirer1 and no one in his ,majesty's dominions1 or out of it1 kept a more recherch or expensive table4 ,but the ,coronation ,dinner at ,westminster ,hall1 in #ahbb1 was a monster banquet merely1 and it gives no indication whatever of the king's more refined taste in cookery4 ,as a curiosity ,i print the bill of fare of this great feast4 ,,bill ,,of ,,fare ,,of ,,the ,,banquet ,,given ,,by ,,george ,,iv4 ,,on ,,the #ai,,th ,,of ,,july1 #ahbb1 ,,in ,,westminster ,,hall1 ,,on ,,the ,,day ,,of ,,his ,,coronation4 ,,hot ,,dishes4--#afj tureens of soup2 #hj of turtle2 #dj of rice2 #dj of vermicelli2 #hj dishes of turbot2 #dj of trout2 #dj of salmon2 #hj dishes of venison2 #dj of roast beef2 #c basins of beef2 #dj dishes of mutton and veal2 #afj dishes of vegetables1 including potatoes1 peas1 and cauliflowers2 #dhj sauce-boats2 #bdj lobsters2 #abj of butter2 #abj of mint4 ,,cold ,,dishes4--#hj of braised ham2 #hj savory pies2 #hj of geese la daube1 two in each dish2 #hj of savory cakes2 #hj of braised beef2 #hj of braised capons1 two in each dish2 #aaij side dishes of various kinds2 #cbj of mounted pastry2 #djj of jellies and creams2 #hj of lobsters2 #hj of crayfish2 #afa of roast fowls2 #hj of house-lamb4 ,,total ,,quantities4--,beef1 #gddb lbs42 veal1 #gacc lbs42 mutton1 #bdgd lbs42 house-lamb1 #bj quarters2 legs of ditto1 #bj2 lamb1 #e saddles2 grass-lamb1 #ee quarters2 lamb sweetbreads1 #afj2 cow-heels1 #chi2 calves'-feet1 #djj2 suet1 #bej lbs42 geese1 #afj2 pullets and capons1 #gbj2 chickens1 #afaj2 fowls for stock1 #ebj2 bacon1 #agcj lbs42 lard1 #eej lbs42 butter1 #iab lbs42 eggs1 #hdjj4 ,,the ,,wines4--,champagne1 #ajj doz42 burgundy1 #bj doz42 claret1 more than #bjj doz42 hock1 #ej doz42 moselle1 #ej doz42 ,madeira1 #ej doz42 sherry and port1 about #cej doz42 iced punch1 #ajj gallons4 ,the champagne1 hock1 and moselle1 were iced before being placed upon the table4 ,the expenses of this banquet and the coronation together amounted to the sum of #bch1bchl4 ,as a contrast to this1 it may be also mentioned that the banquet and coronation of his ,majesty ,william ,,iv41 which took place ,september1 #ahca1 did not cost #ej1jjjl4 ,it may be mentioned that1 at the coronation of ,george ,,iv41 the glut of fruit was unprecedented2 a gentleman of ,lambeth cut sixty ripe pine-apples on the occasion2 and that many hundreds of pines remarkable for size and flavour came from distant parts of the country2 one from ,lord ,cawdor's weighed #aj lbs41 and formed part of the royal banquet4 ,the taste of the royal gourmand will be more fully disclosed by a bill of fare of one of the private dinners given at the ,pavilion1 ,brighton1 in #ahag4 ,carme was at that period for eight months chef de cuisine to the ,prince ,regent of ,england 7afterwards ,george ,,iv471 and for seven months of that period the chef says he never quitted his post4 ,during these seven months1 if we are to believe this celebrated cuisinier1 his ,royal ,highness never felt any attack of gout1 whereas before the cookery was so highly spiced 7aromatise7 that the royal gourmand was tormented with it both day and night4 ,here is one of those menus of thirty-two entres1 given at the ,pavilion1 ,brighton1 on the #hth of ,jan41 #ahag1 which gave no gout3-- ,quatre potages4 ,le potage de livre au chasseur4 ,le potage de saut au consomm de volaille4 ,le potage aux laitues4 ,le macaroni li l'italienne4 ,quatre relevs de poissons4 ,les perches au vin de champagne4 ,l'anguille la rgence4 ,le turbot grill1 sauce aux homards4 ,le cabillaud la hollandaise4 ,quatre grosses pieces4 ,le dindon brais aux hutres4 ,le filet de buf piqu glac4 ,les poulets la financire4 ,le quartier de sanglier1 gele de grosseilles4 ,quatre contre-flans4 ,le pain de gibier sur un socle4 ,la poularde sur un socle4 ,le turban sur un socle4 ,la galantine sur un socle4 ,quatre plats rts4 ,le chapon au cresson4 ,le livre l'anglaise4 ,le dindonneau au cresson4 ,le pluviers bards4 ,huit entremets4 ,les pommes de terre frites4 ,les asperges4 ,les hutres au gratin4 ,la salade de volaille4 ,les salsifis au beurre4 ,les epinards la franaise4 ,les truffes la serviette4 ,les crivisses au madre4 ,,bill ,,of ,,fare ,,for ,,ten ,,or ,,twelve ,,persons4 ,,january4 ,,first ,,course4 ,two soups4 ,soup la ,julienne4 ,pure of pheasant4 ,two fishes4 ,filets de sole la ,dieppoise4 ,john ,dory1 sauce hollandaise4 ,two roasts4 ,roast turkey la financire1 aux truffes4 ,westphalia1 ,york1 or ,cumberland ham1 with ,madeira sauce4 ,four entres4 ,mutton cutlets la ,soubise4 ,filet de la pin la ,marechale4 ,ris de veaus piqu1 aux pinard4 ,pts la ,reine4 ,,second ,,course4 ,two roasts4 ,a hare roasted4 ,a wild duck roasted4 ,four entremets4 ,apricot souffl4 ,salsifis la crme4 ,ramequins4 ufs la ,neige4 ,,dinner ,,for ,,fourteen ,,persons4 ,,april4 ,,first ,,course4 ,two soups4 ,pure la ,reine4 ,pure des carottes au ris4 ,two fishes4 ,crimped salmon1 parsley and butter sauce4 ,soles au gratin4 ,two removes4 ,roast fore-quarter of lamb4 ,poularde la printanire4 ,four entres4 ,lamb cutlets1 sauce aux concombres4 ,fricandeau de veau1 sauce aux pinards4 ,,second ,,course4 ,spring chickens4 ,leverets4 ,four entremets4 ,champignons au gratin4 ,seakale la sauce blanche4 ,vanille cream4 ,apricot tartlets4 ,,dinner ,,for ,,sixteen ,,in ,,may ,,or ,,june4 ,,first ,,course4 ,two soups4 ,clear turtle4 ,potage printanire4 ,two fishes4 ,turbot1 au naturel with lobster or ,dutch sauce4 ,salmon slices1 with parsley and butter or caper sauce4 ,two removes4 ,roast filet of beef larded4 ,poivrade sauce4 ,roast fore-quarter of lamb4 ,entres4 ,noix de veaux la ,st4 ,cloud4 ,filets de mouton piqu1 sauce aux tomates4 ,suprme de volaille aux concombres4 ,un pt chaud la financire4 ,filets de laperaux1 sauce aux oignons4 ,filets de maquereau1 l'anglaise4 ,,second ,,course4 ,guinea fowls4 ,pigeons4 ,six entremets4 ,macaroni l'italienne4 ,choux-fleurs au parmesan4 ,gele de marasquin4 ,de tartelettes la ,chantilly4 ,les asperges la sauce blanche4 ,a lobster salad with plovers' eggs4 ,,dinner ,,in ,a ,,plain ,,english ,,fashion ,,for ,,fourteen4 ,,first ,,course4 ,two soups4 ,giblet soup4 ,soupe la ,julienne4 ,two ,fishes4 ,turbot boiled4 ,slices of salmon1 ,gnevoise sauce4 ,two roasts4 ,a small fore-quarter of lamb4 ,a haunch of mutton4 ,eight entres4 ,lamb cutlets1 cucumber sauce4 ,lobster patties4 ,mutton cutlets la ,soubise4 ,croquettes of sweetbreads4 ,chickens boiled1 cream sauce4 ,sweetbreads4 ,filet of beef1 sauce poivrade4 ,a tongue glazed1 with ,windsor beans4 ,,second ,,course4 #b turkey poults 7#a piqu74 #b ducklings4 ,eight entremets4 ,plovers' eggs with aspic4 ,prawns4 ,jelly with strawberries4 ,caramel basket with caramelled fresh fruits4 ,noyeau jelly4 ,french beans4 ,peas l'anglaise4 ,chantilly basket with trifle4 ,,anthony ,,car,,me4 ,of ,carme it is necessary ,i should say a little before he proceeds to tell his own story4 ,if you believe him 7see passim the six volumes of his culinary works7 he was the ,homer and ,virgil1 the ,corneille and ,dryden1 the ,pope and ,boileau1 the ,byron and ,de ,branger of cookery4 ,every other art1 noble or ignoble1 every other superiority1 literary1 legal1 histrionic1 saltatory1 medicinal1 modistical1 may be contested with the ,gauls2 but great and little of all nations1 peers and pork-men1 boyars and butchers1 graffs and gastronomers1 of whatever land1 all by common consent agree in shouting1 in loud cosmopolitan acclaim1 the glories and the greatness of ,carme4 8,he was a man10 says one of his disciples1 8whose tension and activity of mind were never exhausted2 the more tedious and difficult were his duties1 the more brilliant he emerged from them40 ,the greatest men in ancient and modern times have written their own history4 ,plato in his choicest dialogues gives us an insight into his own character2 ,cicero1 in his work 8,de ,oratore10 paints himself under a feigned name2 ,caesar writes us an account of his own exploits in his 8,commentaries10 as the ,duke of ,wellington does in his 8,despatches20 ,montecuculli penned his own ,memoirs2 and ,napoleon laboured at the 8,mmoriel de ,st4 ,hlne20 why1 therefore1 should not a greater man in his own estimation than any one among them all1 reveal his own precious history and the mysteries of his science1 and lay patent to the public the simple grandeur of his batteries de cuisine8 ,ay1 why not8 ,open the pages of his instructive ,memoirs and ,autobiography1 and see whether there is any one of the ,useful ,knowledge ,society heroes who have gone so far in the pursuit of knowledge under imminent and impending difficulties1 as that really noble fellow ,anthony ,carme8 ,did he not abandon the first families to write his cookery and the practice of some great contemporaries8 for1 observe you1 ,carme is not always peering a ,brobdignagian ,i under your nose1 or flourishing the flaunting motto of 8,ego et ,rex ,meus0 before your perplexed eyes4 ,no1 this good savoury ,samaritan cook has some bowels1 some thoughts of others1 some kindliness for the absent and the departed4 ,he seems always with the modesty of real merit to say1 though of the strongest in his generation1 8,vixere fortes ,agamemnona40 ,but his virtues were not merely negative1 they were of the most positive kind4 ,he would only accept places 8where his taste for study would not be interfered with20 for his ambition was 8serious and elevated40 ,then he felt1 poignantly felt1 8the misery of living among men destitute of education40 ,rousseau1 in that most eloquent of books1 8,the ,confessions10 tells us under what circumstances certain of his writings were composed4 ,the gruff ,sam4 ,johnson1 the delightful debt-contracting ,oliver ,goldsmith1 the ingenious and fantastic ,william ,hazlitt are equally communicative2 but1 maugr this copious sincerity1 what are these men to ,carme8 ,is there any one sentence in all they have ever written equal to the following8 8,from the time ,i arranged the sideboard of the ,saxon ambassador1 the thought of the #8,ptissier ,royale1' and the #8,cuisinier ,parisien1' entered my head40 ,cause and effect are here beautifully1 lucidly transparent4 ,dr4 ,brown and ,dugald ,stewart1 and all the ,scotch mystifiers1 might have written on the subject till the crack of doom1 and left the darkness more dim1 and the subject more perplexed2 it is only ,carme who has made1 in throwing off this bright sentence1 the doctrine quite plain4 8,it was at the little inn at ,llangollen10 says ,hazlitt1 8after a supper1 that ,i wrote such a sketch0 7which he names74 ,see how great geniuses fall on the same style and method4 8,it was in the night10 says ,carme1 8after a short sleep1 that ,i lately dictated to my daughter my most recent chapters40 8,in the busiest period of my service with ,alexander10 says this ingenious maker of sauces1 8,i never once abandoned my evening notes40 ,admirable1 glorious man6 who will not think in reading this of the parallel passage in the life of ,fox1 who1 in the busiest conflicts of party1 left the blaze and bustle of the ,commons to read ,aristophanes1 as the other great performer left the blaze and bustle of the kitchen to compose his evening notes4 ,it was owing to these 8viginti annorum lucubrationes0--it was owing to the 8severe studies of the empire10 that he was at length1 after wrestling with difficulties unheard of1 enabled 8to seize on sugared entremets as his domain in fee40 ,he had1 too1 all the independence of mind of a great genius1 8the surveillance of ,russia appeared degrading to him1 and he promptly left the land of the tyrant and the slave4 ,nor was this all3 such was the profoundness of his ennui in this work-a-day world of ours--in this heavy1 muddy1 manufacturing ,england--that he was forced to leave the service of ,george ,,iv4 to resume the composition of his works4 ,these works are collected in six volumes2 and1 as one great genius may be permitted to speak of another1 8they are10 says ,william ,hall1 cook to ,thomas ,peere ,williams1 and 8conductor0 of the parliamentary dinners of ,viscount ,canterbury1--8they are the productions of a man whose imagination greatly enlarged the variety of entres and entremets previously practised1 and whose clear and perspicuous details render them facile1 not only to the artist who has already an advance in his profession1 but also to those whose knowledge of the higher code of the kitchen has been necessarily limited40 ,the cooks of ,rome and ,athens stood in the market-place with aprons on1 waiting to be hired for the occasion1 and1 after they had done the day's service1 were ignominiously dismissed out of doors2 but the cooks of our day are the friends and familiars of the great4 8,i conversed for more than an hour on gastronomy with ,prince ,esterhazy10 says ,carme1 8and it is astonishing what a knowledge of the art he displayed40 ,how different1 however1 is the fate of different authors6 ,corneille died in an unknown corner1 in forlornness and distress2 ,goldsmith was always in want of a guinea2 ,samuel ,johnson was often sorely pinched2 glorious ,john ,dryden laboured hard for the day's dinner2 ,fielding was often in the hands of bailiffs1 and ,savage and ,otway lived and laboured in misery and distress3 but ,carme1 unlike these1 gained not only immortality1 but money2 not only praise1 but good solid pudding4 8,my works10 says he1 8created me1 exclusive of places whose emoluments ,i sacrificed1 a yearly income of more than #bj1jjj francs40 ,the most amusing of these works is undoubtedly an autobiography1 which he did not live to finish4 ,as it has not appeared in an ,english dress1 ,i give the gem in a translation made at the time it was published4 8,although born of one of the poorest families of ,france1 of a family which counted amongst its members five-and-twenty children--although my father1 to save me1 literally flung me into the street2 ,fortune1 nevertheless1 rapidly smiled on me1 and a good fairy often took me by the hand1 to lead me in the right way4 ,in the eyes of my enemies 7and ,i have many7 ,i have more than once appeared the spoiled child of ,fortune4 ,i have accepted and refused1 at various times1 the finest places2 ,i have abandoned the first families in ,europe to write my practice of cookery and that of some great contemporaries gone to their account1 whose principles and practice were engraved in my memory4 8,i have only accepted good places1 however1 in families where my taste for study1 and the views which ,i early entertained as to eminence in my profession1 would not be interfered with4 ,in the rapid passage to all these places heaps of money were offered me half a score of times1 but ,i have not been over-desirous of mere wealth4 ,my ambition was serious and elevated1 and very early in life ,i desired to elevate my profession into the dignity of an art4 ,it is precisely in this road that ,i have encountered the greatest obstructions4 ,i have everywhere found idleness and envy--that miserable disposition of mind made wretched by every superiority1 and above all by that of a comrade4 ,but ,i have had more success than ,i desired1 though the exceptionable position in which ,i have been placed has never diminished the misery of often living among men destitute of all education4 ,for some years ,i have sought the means to give these men a moral culture 7l'ducation du cur72 but ,i could not very clearly see my way1 for this self-education in the midst of an active life is the most difficult of acquisition4 ,the example of a family is necessary to educate our soul4 8,here and there ,i have some remembrance of seriously disagreeable passages1 owing to the low rich 7vilains riches72 but ,i ought1 on the other hand1 to recall to mind the good1 the excellent conduct of gentlemen of truth1 noble seigneurs that ,i have served4 ,i have never had to complain but of the conduct of a parvenu1 a name which the fellow decorated himself with without tact4 ,it was under the ,empire that ,i was most employed2 it was1 above all1 at this era that my studies were severe2 8c'est surtout cette poque que j'ai fait des fortes tudes40 ,my researches were made in good time2 they were continuous2 they were serious4 ,at ,m4 de ,talleyrand's ,i was under ,boucher1 chef des services of the prince4 ,i there perfected myself in one of the principal parts of cookery1 which ,i afterwards developed4 ,some years previously ,i had executed many parts of the beaux extras4 ,a little later ,i had the management of the charming little dinners given by a distinguished and lofty-minded man1 ,m4 de ,lavalette4 ,i also cooked the dinners and arranged the sideboard of the ,saxon ,ambassador4 ,it is from that period that the first decided thought of the 8,ptissier ,royal0 and of the 8,cuisinier ,parisien10 first entered my mind4 ,i now acquired the excellent habit of noting down in the evening1 on returning home1 the modifications that ,i had made in my labour1 each day bringing some change4 ,with pen in hand1 ,i set down the reasons which had determined my mind4 ,that which then particularly occupied me was the finer parts of the oven's produce1 and the cold sugared entremets4 ,this labour is the most delicate portion of the art of the pastry-cook4 ,i invented much in this branch--the foundation1 the execution1 the form--all these parts became easy to me1 and ,i seized on them as of my domain in fee4 8,i enjoyed perfect freedom at ,m4 de ,lavalette's to compose my dinners4 ,it was there ,i did the most to realize the problem whose solution ,i early sought--the union of order1 delicacy1 and economy4 ,the guests were assiduous at these dinners2 they were generally members of the senate1 learned men1 celebrated officers1 all connoisseurs4 8,i laboured as a supernumerary at the ,prince de ,talleyrand's in #ahad1 when the ,emperor ,alexander arrived there4 ,there ,i obtained the friendship and protection of an agreeable and distinguished man1 the comptroller of his ,imperial ,majesty's household1 ,m4 ,muller4 ,under his direction ,i became chief cook of the kitchens of the emperor1 and was charged with all the expenses and the ordering of the bills of fare4 ,this was the most active moment of my life2 yet ,i did not renounce my custom1 but continued to write what ,i had changed remodelled4 ,i thus fixed ideas and combinations in my memory which might have been effaced from it4 ,when the ,emperor ,alexander quitted ,paris1 ,i refused simultaneously the offer of the situation of chef de cuisine in many great houses4 ,soon after ,i decided to set out for ,aix-la-,chapelle1 still in the service of the ,emperor ,alexander4 ,the congress of sovereigns was united1 and ,m4 ,muller renewed his propositions of ,paris1 namely1 that ,i should go and continue my labours at ,petersburg4 ,my mode of cookery pleased the emperor much1 he said2 that was easy1 for everything was noble and truly imperial in that great establishment of the czar4 ,my emoluments were #bdjj francs per month1 and the culinary expenses4 ,that which ,i directed at ,aix-la-,chapelle was from #hj1jjj to #ajj1jjj francs a month2 but this munificent expenditure was based on the greatest order and regularity1 and the utmost strictness in making up the accounts4 8,the ,prince ,louis de ,rohan1 a member of the congress1 was one of my kindliest protectors4 ,he advised me to enter into the regular service of the emperor4 ,i wished for a delay1 for ,i could not resolve to quit the researches and labours of digesting my works1 which ,i had commenced at ,paris4 8,i then entered the service of ,lord ,stewart4 ,the ,english embassy at ,vienna was most brilliant at this time4 ,affairs called milord to ,london4 ,it was there that ,prince ,orloff offered me anew the vacant places of matre d'htel and chef des cuisines to the ,emperor ,alexander4 ,i left ,london1 and came to see at ,paris ,m4 ,daniel1 who had just left the service of the ,emperor of ,russia1 rich and honoured4 ,he advised me to start for ,petersburg4 #8,you will not1' he exclaimed1 #8find much serious rivalry there4' ,i made up my baggage1 and embarked at ,honfleur4 ,arrived at ,cronstadt1 my old friend ,riquette presented me immediately to the ,prince ,wolkonski4 ,i was selected for the place of matre d'htel1 but remarking that it was degraded by a humiliating surveillance1 ,i determined to give it up4 ,a few days afterwards ,i decided on leaving ,petersburg1 after having visited ,moscow4 ,i determined to return either to ,france or ,england1 where ,i would find a good place in accordance with my habits and talents4 8,i set sail1 then1 from ,cronstadt2 but the voyage was one continual tempest4 ,we had been thirty-nine days at sea when we took shelter between ,calais and ,boulogne4 ,on the morning of the thirty-ninth day1 relief was afforded by large fishing smacks from ,calais4 ,after some days of repose1 ,i returned to that ,paris which ,i had never ceased to regret1 and on my arrival1 entered the service of the ,princess ,bragation1 a lady of high rank1 good1 clever1 and mistress of a table which1 in delicacy1 dignity1 and culinary novelties1 yielded the palm to no lordly table1 whether ,french or ,english4 ,the taste of this lady was exquisite4 ,she had a grace1 a charm of conversation which were cited as models4 ,i always served my dinner en matre d'htel1 and was uniformly complimented4 ,the princess said to me one day1 #8,carme1 did they not tell you that you were entering the service of a capricious lady8' ,i signified assent4 #8,you see the contrary1 however1 for ,i am delighted with your bills of fare1 and accept them as you offer them4' ,i thanked the princess1 and added that the characteristic quality of my cookery was1 above all1 that delicacy and that variety which she was good enough to praise4 ,one day somebody said that he had been invited to a dinner dressed by ,carme4 ,her highness immediately answered1 #8,there must be a mistake1 for ,i am sure that ,carme dresses no dinner out of my house4' ,madame understood my character4 ,the guest replied1 #8,well1 this cook of which ,i spoke is a pearl1 at all events4' #8,say rather1' rejoined the princess1 #8a false pearl1 while mine is a real one4' ,and there ,i was1 as large as life6 8,the princess was often ill4 ,one day at dinner1 and before me1 the ,prince de ,talleyrand felicitated her on improved health4 #8,yes1 ,i am better1 and ,i owe that to ,carme4' ,the prince1 with his usual intellectual grace and kindliness1 approved of the princess's remark4 ,at that moment ,i was very happy4 8,during my journey into ,russia1 ,lord ,stewart wrote to me at ,petersburg1 to engage me to go with him to ,vienna1 #8as he could find no cook who reminded him of me4' ,these were his very words4 ,the ,princess ,bragation being some time afterwards almost perpetually confined to her bed1 my place became nearly a sinecure1 and ,i obtained from my kind patroness the permission to return to ,vienna4 ,when ,i arrived in the latter capital the ambassador was no longer there1 but ,i rejoined him at ,laybach4 8,on my return to ,vienna1 ,i undertook the editing of the bill of fare 7la rdaction du menu71 which was not changed4 ,i each day received in our magnificent kitchen the visit of milord2 he daily bestowed on me presents and encouragements4 ,it was his excellency who received the letter of the ,prince ,wolkonski1 in which it was said that the emperor would accept the dedication of my projects of culinary architecture4 ,a magnificent ring1 studded with valuable diamonds1 accompanied this letter4 ,i received it with tears in my eyes4 ,how happy had my life become6 8,my ring was the subject of universal curiosity among my brethren4 ,it was envied me by those who passed their lives in dissipation4 ,see how delicate the emperor was4 ,he would not reward me in an art in which ,i had pleased him1 but he rewarded me in another art1 to which ,i had consecrated all the leisure moments of my life4 ,how often in that moment did ,i mentally thank ,m4 ,percier1 that finely accomplished draughtsman1 for the priceless instruction which he was good enough to give me4 8,a short while after1 we left ,vienna1 to be present at the coronation of ,george ,,iv4 ,ten years before ,i had served this monarch1 then ,i left him to go to ,russia4 ,i left him notwithstanding his generosity1 notwithstanding the illustration which his regrets1 so benignantly expressed1 had thrown around my name4 ,we did not arrive in time for the coronation4 ,i regretted this at first2 but1 when ,i knew with what manner of men ,i should be associated1 ,i looked on my absence as a real blessing4 ,according to all account1 nothing could be more triste1 more paltry1 more out of joint with the occasion1 than these ftes4 ,my ancient colleague of ,carlton ,house had completely failed4 8,towards the end of #ahbc there was a talk of ,prince ,esterhazy as ambassador at ,paris4 ,the ,duke de ,perigord recalled me to the memory of his excellency ,prince ,esterhazy1 who received me with kindness1 and remembered with a lively pleasure the dinners of the ,prince ,regent4 ,he engaged me in the event of his being nominated to the ,parisian embassy1 and retained me long enough that day to talk of the gastronomy1 of which he spoke in a truly pertinent manner1 and with much talent4 ,the prince set out for ,london4 ,i remained at ,paris sixteen months in the expectation of the new place1 and meanwhile refused fine offers2 one of the ,russian ambassador's at ,naples1 the other of ,lord ,granville1 who was leaving the ,hague4 ,i made it a point to be scrupulously faithful to the engagement which ,i had entered into with the prince4 8,i forgot to say that1 at the end of six months1 ,rothschild's place was offered me4 ,at first ,i refused1 but1 ,prince ,esterhazy not coming to ,paris1 one of my kind protectors1 the ,prince ,louis de ,rohan1 presented me to ,madame ,rothschild4 ,i accepted the place4 ,the ,duke de ,perigord wished at this time that ,i should present my 8,culinary ,architecture10 magnificently bound by ,thouvenin1 to the ,tuileries4 ,the result was as ,i had foreseen--,i only received cold compliments4 ,the reward of the public was somewhat different4 ,my 8,projets d',architecture10 though containing only rough sketches1 were examined and approved4 ,at the moment ,i write1 #ahcc1 here are nearly five years that ,i am with the ,rothschilds4 ,i have since refused the service of the ,spanish embassy and of ,prince ,esterhazy1 who came to ,paris with the kindly thought of taking me back to ,england4 ,m4 ,esterhazy was the intimate friend of ,george ,,iv42 he dined weekly with his majesty4 ,it was difficult for these two eminent gourmets1 for these two personages1 full of taste1 to pass some hours together without talking of cookery4 ,one day his ,majesty asked the ,prince where ,i was4 #8,at ,rothschild's1' said ,esterhazy1 #8and in that house is the very best table in ,paris4' #8,i believe it1' said ,george ,,iv41 #8since ,carme has the management of it4' ,these words were repeated to me by a person of eminent rank who was present4 ,george ,,iv4 was so perfect a connoisseur in all that related to the table1 that ,i had a right to feel flattered by his approval4 ,these words of kindliness were in conformity with everything which the ,regent had the goodness to say to me ten years before--to every communication he caused to be made to me in the interval4 ,magnificent conditions were now proposed to me on the part of ,george ,,iv42 my salary was to be doubled1 and that salary was to be converted into a pension for life at the end of a few years4 ,but1 in the interval between the fashionable seasons1 ,london and the country-houses of the three kingdoms were insupportable to me4 ,notwithstanding the kindness and friendship of this royal prince1 ,i experienced while in his service so profound a melancholy and ennui1 that ,i was forced to return to ,paris to resume the composition of my works4 ,it is not1 therefore1 to be wondered that ,i refused with regret1 though with gratitude1 offers of recall to the service of ,george ,,iv4 ,in the first place1 my situation at ,rothschild's suited me perfectly2 and1 in the second place1 ,i was somewhat wearied with service4 ,i felt the first attack of the malady which gnaws at my vitals4 ,i now only think of profiting of the days which ,heaven may yet spare to me to finish the books whose germs are in my mind4 ,these books have been the meditation of my entire life4 ,what torments1 what preoccupations1 what cares1 do they not represent1 and how ,i have tormented body and mind by my long vigils4 ,at break of day ,i was at the fish-market1 seeking the elements of my labours4 ,some hours after1 ,i was in the thick of business1 with cap and apron on2 and ,i was again at work1 busy as a bee1 some hours before dinner4 ,it was in the night1 after a short sleep1 that ,i lately dictated to my daughter my most recent chapters4 ,the certainty now remains to me of leaving something useful behind me4 ,but ,i shall not leave all that ,i had conceived touching our art1 in the interest of kindly civil men and good practicians4 8,i now edited my #8,matre-d',htel2' ,i published a new edition of the #8,ptissier ,royale1' and the third of the #8,ptissier ,pittoresque2' the copyright ,i kept in my own hands4 8,my works1 forming already six volumes1 had created for me at last 7exclusive of places whose emoluments ,i always sacrificed to my studies67 the annual income necessary to a tranquil and comfortable existence4 ,i made that year an income of more than #bj1jjj francs 7#hjjl474 ,m4 de ,rothschild1 valuing my services1 raised1 of his own accord1 my wages4 ,he had just about this time purchased of the ,duke of ,otranto the handsome estate of ,ferrires4 ,the baron was good enough to say that the resources of ,ferrires would render my service more easy2 he added1 with kindness1 #8,this beautiful chteau will1 a dozen years hence1 offer you a retreat4' ,i eagerly thanked him1 but said that ,i did not think my health would permit me to accept his offers1 that ,i was worn out4 #8,my wish1' said ,i1 #8,m4 le ,baron1 is not to finish my days in a chteau1 but in an humble lodging in ,paris4' ,i further mentioned that my books brought me in an income which exceeded my wants4 ,i shall increase this income1 for ,i have not finished my labours2 ,i have yet to publish a book on the actual state of my profession4' #8,but what is the amount of that income8' kindly asked ,m4 de ,rothschild and his family4 ,a lively surprise was the result of my answer4 ,what ,i said appeared a dream4 ,i added that this income was not of the past year only1 but dated back for several years4 8,it was some months after this that ,i was attacked with the malady which torments me1 and which will close1 perhaps1 the future on me4 ,i am still under the hands of the doctors1 but do not mend4 ,one of my old friends1 ,m4 ,magonty1 replaces me in my post4 8,i will not close this chapter without saying that ,i obtained1 while in the house of ,madame ,rothschild1 the inestimable good-will of a man of genius1 of the ,maestro ,rossini2 he is a connoisseur1 as is well known2 he always said that he only dined well1 according to his taste1 at the house of ,madame ,rothschild4 ,he asked me one day if my labours were not the result of very attentive meditation8 ,i answered affirmatively1 #8,all that ,i do is written2 ,i slightly alter in execution4' ,i remember that one day there was some talk of ,rossini going to the ,united ,states2 he was good enough to say1 #8,i'll start at once if ,carme will but accompany me4'0 ,i shall conclude with a few detached passages1 aphorisms1 and thoughts1 from the same great authority4 ,fte given at the ,elyse ,imprial for the ,marriage of ,prince ,jerome and the ,princess of ,wurtemburg4 8,at this1 a grand ball1 ,robert was comptroller1 and the famous ,laguipierre chef des cuisines4 ,riquette#ch and ,i were charged with such portion of the supper as was served cold4 ,we thus1 as nearly as ,i can remember1 filled the tables3 twenty-four large joints1 fourteen stands bearing hams1 six galantines1 and two wild boars' heads1 six loins of veal la gele1 seventy-six entres1 six of which were sides and fillets of beef la gele1 six noix de veau1 six of dressed calves' brains bordered with shapes of jelly1 six of pain de foie gras1 six of poulets la reine en galantine1 six d'aspics garnished with cocks' combs and kidneys1 six of salmis of red partridge lukewarm1 six of fricases of poulet la reine1 six of mayonnaises de volaille1 six of slices of salmon au beurre de ,montpelier1 six of salads of fillets of soles1 six of galantines of eels au beurre de ,montpelier4 ,our borders were thus composed3 for the slices of salmon1 beurre rose2 for the eels1 beurre la ravigotte vert-tendre2 for the salads of filets de sole1 borders of eggs2 for the mayonnaises de volaille1 the same2 for the game and fowls1 borders of truffles1 mushrooms1 and morels40 ,new ,invention of ,carme4 8,towards #ahjd ,i imagined our new sudoises4 ,the shapes which they had before my time were without grace or elegance4 ,my attempt had a decided success at a grand extra of a ball1 which the marshals of ,france gave to the ,chief-,consul1 their master4 ,the ball was magnificent2 it was given in the ,salle de l',opra decorated with hangings4 ,m4 ,bcar1 cook of the sugared entremets1 called me in to assist him1 he confided to me the sudoises4 ,i made him thirty-six of them1 and for several days afterwards these sudoises were the only topic of conversation from the kitchens to the salons of ,paris4 ,happy times6 agreeable labours60 ,the following are the most striking among the ,aphorisms1 ,thoughts1 and ,maxims1 of the ,cook ,carme4 8,france is the mother-country of amphitryons4 ,its kitchen and its wines assure the triumph of gastronomy4 ,it is the only country in the world for good cheer4 ,strangers are convinced of these truths4 8,the culinary art serves as a sort of escort to ,european diplomacy4 8,the great diplomatist should have a renowned cook4 8,the diplomatist is a fine appreciator of a good dinner4 8,for the young nobility1 embassies are courses of diplomacy and gastronomy4 8,gastronomy marches like a queen at the head of civilization1 but vegetates merely in a period of revolution4 8,great doctors and great musicians are great lovers of good living2 witness the celebrated ,broussais1 ,roques1 ,rossini1 and ,boeldieu4 8,the rich man1 fond of the pleasures of the table1 passes through life with comfort and happiness1 when he cares not a straw for public affairs4 8,cookery is a difficult art2 a generous host knows how to appreciate its grandeur and dignity4 8,in the houses of the old nobility1 the chef de cuisine became matre d'htel1 the assistant-cook took the place of the cook1 and the scullions became assistant-cooks4 ,by these mutations1 these ministers to the mouth 7hommes de bouche7 attached themselves more and more to these noble houses1 and thus the masters at once preserved their health and secured the comfort of their servants4 8,in the epoch in which we live the first culinary talents vegetate at ,paris1 and ,london is enriched with our renowned cooks4 8,a cook is a gastronome both by taste and by profession4 8,a cook who is clean in his person is clean also in his work4 8,in ancient and modern times1 the talents of cooks were honoured by kings1 witness ,marc ,antoninus and the great ,frederick4 8,the ,french cook is esteemed by the great in distant lands2 he is sought for and appreciated4 8,the ,french cook is incited to his work by a point of honour inseparable from the culinary art2 witness the death of the great ,vatel4 8,the ,french cook is happy in all the capitals of ,europe1 but he who does not wish to quit his country should have courage4 8,at the ,russian court the cook on duty 7for there are four who take the work by turns every fortnight7 always served his dinner en matre d'htel4 ,this thoroughly gastronomical fashion should be generally adopted by amphitryons who love to make good cheer4 8,the hypocritical valet is fatal to the tranquillity of a great establishment2 he is vain1 proud1 paltry1 crawling1 lazy1 and gluttonous2 he is a tale-bearer for the purpose of gaining his master's confidence1 which he afterwards abuses2 he is the ,tartuffe of domestic life4 8,the upstart valet is self-sufficient and scented4 8,the doctor speaks ill of the cook1 in order that he may not lose his influence over the mind of the rich man2 but the talent of a good cook tends more to the preservation of his master's health than the factitious science of certain doctors1 whose medical advice is regulated by their own interests4 8,the rich man who leads an irregular life ought rather to trust to the science of a cook to re-establish his health1 if he feels the necessity of it1 than to the discourses of the interested doctor40 99 99 99 99 99 ,such was ,anthony ,carme4 ,he had gained the suffrages of emperors and kings1 of princes royal and princes not royal1 of noble ladies and rich banker ,jews1 when the climax of his felicity was capped by the friendship and good-will of ,rossini1 and a flattering notice of his work1 in his usual sparkling style1 from the facile pen of ,jules ,janin4 ,this was too much for mortal man1 and encumbered by the very splendour and vanity of his successes1 and not a little worn out also1 by thirty years of service1 he sank into premature decay1 and was taken from that world of bon-vivants and sensualists of whom he had formed the delight1 somewhere about the year of grace #ahce or #ahcf4 8,he was10 says a celebrated gourmand1 8lively1 ardent1 enthusiastic1 of a rare patience1 of an imperturbable sangfroid10 ,the last work of ,carme1 8',art de ,cuisine ,franaise au ,,xixme ,sicle10 was left in an unfinished state1 but ,m4 ,plumeret1 first cook of the ,russian embassy1 has finished it by the publication of the sixteenth and seventeenth parts4 ,in the 8atre d',htel ,franais10 the 8uisinier ,parisien10and 8a ,cuisine de ,paris au ,,xixme ,sicle10 will ,carme live4 8,carme bestowed fine names on his soups3--,potages ,cond1 ,boeldieu1 ,broussais1 ,roques1 ,sgalas 7the three last learned and agreeable doctors72 ,lamartine1 ,dumesnil 7the historian72 ,buffon1 ,girodet2 and to be just to all the world1 that great practitioner in the culinary art which the world has lost1 had not forgotten1 before his death1 to give also to one of his best soups the name of ,victor ,hugo4 ,he called a matelote of fish after ,m4 ,delavigne1 and a dish of perch after his physician1 ,m4 ,gaubert40 ,here are ,m4 ,carme's ideas on maigre sauces3--8,it is in a lenten kitchen that the cleverness of a cook can shed a brilliant light4 ,it was in the ,elyse ,imperial1 and by the example of the famous ,laguipierre and ,robert1 that ,i was initiated into this fine branch of the art1 and it is inexpressible4 ,the years '#ic and '#id1 in their terrible and devastating course1 respected these strong heads 7ces fortes ttes74 ,when our valiant ,first ,consul appeared at the head of affairs our miseries and those of gastronomy finished4 8,when the empire came1 one heard of soups and entres maigre4 ,the splendid maigre first appeared at the table of the ,princess ,caroline ,murat4 ,this was the sanctuary of good cheer1 and ,murat was one of the first to do penitence4 ,but what a penitence60 ,one does not know whether to be indignant or to laugh at this4 ,the old proverb1 8,set a beggar on horseback and he will ride to the devil10 is undoubtedly true4 ,a few years before the consulate the ambitious ,caroline ,buonaparte1 afterwards wife of ,murat1 was1 with her mother and the other female members of her family1 in so destitute a situation at ,marseilles1 that they had not the means of buying wood to warm themselves2 and as to ,murat1 her husband1 it is well known that he rose from the very dregs of society1 his father being a village innkeeper at ,bastide ,frontonire1 in the department of ,lot4 ,illustration ,,chiswick ,,press3--,,printed ,,by ,,whittingham ,,and ,,wilkins1 ,,tooks ,,court1 ,,chancery ,,lane4 ,,footnotes3 #a ,an edition of ,apicius1 with notes and comments1 has been given by ,dr4 ,lister1 physician to ,queen ,anne4 #b 8,cours ,gastronomique10 #abd4 #c 8,namque cocus domini debet habere gulam40--,,martial4 #d 8,donat4 in ,terent4 ,andr410 act4 i4 sc4 #a4 #e 8,bourgeois ,gentilhomme10 act iv4 sc4 #a4 #f ,amsterdam1 #agbf4 #g 8,almanach des ,gourmands10 #fme anne4 #h ,previous to #aghi1 says the 8,almanach des ,gourmands10 tom4 i1 p4 #afb1 there were not one hundred restaurateurs in ,paris4 ,now 7in #ahjc7 there are five times as many4 ,speaking at random and without book1 there are at present #djjj or #ejjj1 great and small4 ,the author of the 8,almanach des ,gourmands0 falls into the strange mistake of attributing the increase of restaurateurs to an ,anglomania4 8,it is well known10 says he1 8that the ,english almost always dine at a tavern40 ,what inconceivable ignorance6 #i 8,memoires ,anecdotiques sur l'intrieur du ,palais1 et sur quelques ,evenemens de l',empire1 depuis #ahje jusqu'au #a ,mai #ahad1 pour servir l',histoire de ,napoleon10 par ,l4 ,f4 ,j4 ,de ,bausset1 ancien ,prfet du ,palais ,imprial4 #aj ,this was first printed at ,milan1 in #adih4 #aa ,at the beginning of this century1 ,weeks' ,bush ,inn1 at ,bristol1 was famous for its ,christmas fare4 ,the bill of fare for ,christmas #ahjj was as follows3--,a turtle of #abj lbs41 #gb pots of turtle1 a bustard1 red game1 black game1 fish of almost innumerable kinds1 venison1 #db hares1 #hg wild ducks1 #ag pheasants1 #da partridges1 #ag wild geese1 #adi snipes1 #ha woodcocks1 #ag wild turkeys1 #dd tame turkeys1 #aj capons1 #eb barrels of ,purfleet oysters4 #ab ,juvenal relates the story somewhat differently3-- 8,sed deerat pisci patin mensura3 vocantur ,ergo in concilium proceres10 c4--,,sat4 ,,ii4 #ac ,galen1 ,lib4 ,,iii4--,de ,aliment4 ,see also ,lib4 ,,viii4--,methodi ,medendi4 #ad ,see also1 ,nonius de ,re ,cibar4--,lib4 ,,viii4 #ae ,dictionnaire des termes du vieux ,franois1 ou tresor de recherches et antiquits ,gauloises et ,franoises1 par ,m4 ,borel1 ,conseiller et ,mdecin ordinaire du ,roi4 ,paris3 chez ,briasson1 ,rue ,st4 ,jacques4 ,,mdccl4 #af ,lib4 ,,xii4 cap4 #e4 #ag 8,ludovici ,nonni ,dieteticon10 ,antverpi1 ,,mdcxvi4 ,lib4 ,,ii4 p4 #bdb4 #ah ,see #d ,inst41 cap4 lxvi4 ,the office of swanherd is in ,rot4 ,patentium1 anno #aa and #d1 called 8,magister deductus ,cygnorum40 ,see 8,le case de ,swannes10 lib4 #g4 #ai 8,observations on the ,ancient ,statutes40 ,dublin3 ,grierson1 #agfg4 #bj ,nonni 8,de ,re ,cib40 ,lib4 ,,ii4 #ba ,nonni1 8,de ,re ,cibari10 lib4 ii41 p4 #bae4 #bb 8,velocius quam asparagi coquuntur40 ,,suet4 #bc ,cotignac was a confection of quinces4 #bd 8,trait des ,alimens10 par ,lmery4 #be ,see 8,trait des ,alimens de ,lmery40 ,par le ,docteur ,bruhier4 #bf 8,trait des ,alimens10 p4 #cfj4 #bg ,eutropius4 #bh ,hist4 des ,empereurs1 tom4 ii4 #bi ,julian in ,misopogon1 p4 #cei4 #cj ,i believe a third edition has been published in #ahfj4 #ca ,it would1 however1 appear that the ,romans employed corks3-- 8,corticem astrictum pice dimovebit ,amphor10 says ,horace4 #cb ,henderson says that in some places where wood abounded1 as in the neighbourhood of the ,alps and in ,illyria1 wine casks were made of that material2 but the vessels in general use among the ,greeks and ,romans were of earthenware4 ,no authority is1 however1 cited by the ,doctor for this statement4 #cc ,lib4 xxvii41 c4 #f4 #cd ,these customs are now 7#ahfd7 exploded in ,london society1 and only exist on circuit1 at regimental messes1 or at public dinners4 #ce 8,un poinon de vin1 d'huile1 c4 ,dolium vel doliolum4 ,le poinon est la moiti d'un tonneau d',orlans1 ou d',anjou4 ,c'est un nom qu'on donne en ,blasois et en ,touraine au muid de vin4 ,a ,rouen le poinon contient treize boisseaux4 ,c'est ,paris la mme chose qu'une demi-queue4 ,on dit1 ,voici vendanges1 il faut acheter des poinons1 faire relier nos poinons1 en parlant de toutes sortes de futailles et de vaisseaux40--,dictionnaire de ,trevoux4 #cf ,this grape is named the ,ciras4 ,in the 8nologie ,franaise0 for #ahbf1 it is spelt ,scyras1 and it is stated1 according to the tradition of the neighbourhood1 the plant was originally brought from ,shiraz1 in ,persia1 by one of the hermits of the mountain4 #cg ,history of ,london1 vol4 ,i41 p4 #bej4 #ch ,riquette was then a young ,parisian cook1 who has since made a considerable fortune in the service of the ,emperor ,alexander4 ,he spoke and wrote so remarkably1 that his competitors called him the beau parleur4 ,transcriber's ,notes3 #a4 ,obvious printers'1 punctuation and spelling errors have been corrected silently4 #b4 ,where hyphenation is in doubt1 it has been retained as in the original4 #c4 ,some hyphenated and non-hyphenated versions of the same words have been retained as in the original4 #d4 ,italics are shown as xxx4