,,book ,,( ,,etiquette ,illu/ration ,illu/ration3 ,photo by ,george ,h4 ,davis1 ,jr4 ,c\rtesy ( ! ,woman's ,home ,companion4 ,,ready ,,= ,,tea ,! tea table %\ld nev] be clutt]$ ) a lot ( ?+s :i* ! ho/ess does n ne$ ,,book ,,( ,,etiquette ,,by ,,lillian ,,ei*l] ,,volume ,,ii ,,illu/rat$ ,,nelson ,,d\bl$ay1 ,,inc4 ,,oy/] ,,bay1 ,n4 ,y4 #aibb ,,copyright1 #aiba1 ,,by ,,nelson ,,d\bl$ay1 ,,inc4 ,,all ,,rights ,,res]v$1 ,,includ+ ,,t ,,( ,,translation ,,into ,,=eign ,,languages1 ,,includ+ ,,! ,,sc&9avian ,,pr9t$ ,,9 ,,! ,,unit$ ,,/ates ,,at ,,! ,,c\ntry ,,life ,,press1 ,,g>d5 ,,city1 ,n4 ,y4 ,,cont5ts ,,"p ,,iii ,,*apt] ,,page ,i4 ,,s]vants #a ,! ,s]vant 9 ! ,h\sehold--,a ,^w to ! ,mi/ress--,a ,^w to ! ,s]vant--,h[ to ,address ,s]vants--,! ,*ild & ! ,s]vant--,! ,invisible ,b>ri]--,:5 ! ,s]vant ,speaks--,! ,s]vants ( a ,big ,h\se--,! ,butl]--,correct ,dress = ! ,butl]--,! ,second ,man--,! ,*auffeur--,duties ( ! ,*auffeur--,! ,valet--,! ,page--,! ,maid-,s]vants--,lady's ,maid--,! ,nurse-,maid--,duties ( ,h\se-,maid--,9 ,conclusion4 ,,ii4 ,,d9n]s #bc ,ab\t ! ,am]ican ,ho/ess--,plann+ ! ,=mal ,d9n]--,arrang+ ! ,table--,/>t+ at ! ,c5t]--,"s ,important ,details--,table ,etiquette--,table ,s]vice--,use ( ! ,napk9--,! ,spoon at ! ,d9n] ,table--,! ,=k & ,knife--,f+] ,foods--,table ,accid5ts--,! ,ho/ess--,:5 ! ,gue/s ,arrive--,! ,successful ,ho/ess--,! ,gue/--,comm5ts on ,food--,second ,help+s--,! ,m5u--,special ,ent]ta9m5t--,:5 to ,leave--,tak+ ,leave--,invit+ a ,/op-,gap--,simple ,d9n]s--,invit+ ,cong5ial ,gue/s--,:5 ,!re are no ,s]vants--,hotel ,d9n]s--,dress = ,d9n]4 ,,iii4 ,,lun*eons #dh ,purpose ( ! ,lun*eon--,in=mal ,lun*eons--,ab\t ! ,table--,! ,=mal ,lun*eon--,! ,table = ! ,=mal ,lun*eon--,ho/ess & ,gue/--,=mal & ,in=mal ,breakfa/s--,dress = ,lun*eons & ,breakfa/s4 ,,iv4 ,,teas ,,& ,,o!r ,,ent]ta9m5ts #ef ,evolution ( ! ,aft]noon ,tea--,! ,simpl] ,tea--,! ,=mal ,tea--,! ,tea-,table--,dress at ,tea ,"t--,! ,g>d5 ,p>ty--,receiv+ ! ,gue/s--,on ! ,lawn--,dress = ,g>d5 ,p>ties & ,lawn ,fe/ivals--,woman's ,g>d5 ,co/ume--,! ,man at ! ,g>d5 ,p>ty--,h\se ,p>ties--,s5d+ ! ,invitation--,:5 ! ,gue/s ,arrive--,ent]ta9+ at ! ,h\se ,p>ty--,ho/ess & ,gue/s at ! ,h\se ,p>ty--,tipp+ ! ,s]vants4 ,v4 ,,:5 ,,! ,,ba*elor ,,ent]ta9s #gf ,:5 ! ,ba*elor is ,ho/--,welcom+ ! ,gue/s--,! ,ba*elor's ,d9n]--,tea at a ,ba*elor ,ap>tm5t--,! ,ba*elor ,dance--,!at] ,p>ties--,ya*t+ ,p>ties4 ,,vi4 ,,musicales ,,& ,,private ,,!atricals #hc ,prep>ations = ! ,musicale--,! ,aft]noon ,musicale--,! ,ev5+ ,musicale--,c>d ,p>ties at ! ,musicale--,duties ( ,gue/s at ,musicales--,dress at ! ,musicale--,arrang+ ,private ,!atricals--,! ,play]s--,! ,gue/s--,ho/ & ,ho/ess4 ,,vii4 ,,danc+ #ia ,danc+ z a ,heal?ful ,art--,dance-,giv+ ,no ,long] a ,luxury--,! ,debut ,dance--,co/ume ,balls--,subscription ,dances--,! ,ballroom--,music at ! ,dance--,dance ,programs--,d9n] ,dances--,dress+ ,rooms--,! ,dance--,:5 ! ,lady is ,ask$ to ,dance--,cutt+ ,9--,danc+ ,positions--,:5 ! ,gue/ ,does ,n ,dance--,public ,dances--,a ,plea = ,danc+--,! ,*>m ( ,dress 9 ,danc+--,at ! ,aft]noon ,dance--,g5tlem5 at ! ,dance--,dress = ! ,ball--,dress ( ! ,debutante--,wraps at ! ,ball--,ball ,dress = ,m5--,= ! ,simple ,c\ntry ,dance4 ,,viii4 ,,games ,,& ,,sports #aad ,:y ! ,_w ,plays--,fair ,play--,indoor ,games--,*ess--,bridge--,billi>ds & ,croquet--,outdoor ,games--,lawn ,t5nis--,golf--,"s ,important ,rules ab\t ,golf--,football--,automobile ,etiquette--,automobile ,p>ties--,rid+--,ba?+--,sports--,clo!s 9 ,g5]al4 ,,"p ,,iv ,i4 ,,spee* #ace ,conv]sation--,! ,*>m ( ,correct ,spee*--,c\rtesy 9 ,conv]sation--,! ,voice--,ease 9 ,spee*--,local ,phrases & ,mann]isms--,importance ( ,vocabul>y--,int]rupt+ ! ,spee* ( ,o!rs--,tact 9 ,conv]sation--,"s ,important ,in=mation--,:at to ,talk ,ab\t4 ,,ii4 ,,dress #adg ,! ,fir/ ,impression--,m5's ,dress--,wom5's ,dress--,! ,/ory ( ,dress--,! ,dawn ( ,fa%ion--,! ,fa%ions ( ,to-day--,h>mony 9 ,dress--,importance ( ,color--,! ,*>m ( ,p]sonality--,gaud9ess v]sus ,good ,ta/e--,extravagance ! ,greate/ ,vulg>ity--,inappropriat5ess 9 ,clo!s--,! ,ecc5tric ,dress]--,com=t 9 ,clo!s--,if ,"o is ,n ,av]age--,tall & ,%ort ,p--,! ,well-,dress$ ,woman--,n a ,slave to ,fa%ion--,! ,well-,dress$ ,man--,! ,*>m ( ,old ,age--,! ,eld]ly ,woman--,imitation & ,ov]-,dress+--,! ,old] ,g5tleman--,a ,trip to ! ,s\?--,= ! ,g5tleman4 ,,iii4 ,,! ,,bus9ess ,,woman #agg ,woman 9 ! ,bus9ess ,_w--,self-,confid5ce--,! ,slatt]n--,foll[+ ! ,fa%ions--,gaudy ,attraction--,! ,bus9ess ,suit--,! ,bus9ess ,dress & ,coat--,an ,appeal to ,bus9ess ,wom54 ,,iv4 ,,on ,,! ,,/reet #ahe ,! ,true ,etiquette--,poise 9 ,public--,! ,*>m ( ,c\rtesy--,ladies & ,g5tlem5--,:5 to ,b[ 9 ,public--,walk+ 9 ,public--,/opp+ = a ,*at--,:5 ,accid5ts ,happ5--,accept+ ,c\rtesies f ,/rang]s--,rais+ ! ,hat--,h[ to ,raise ! ,hat--,9 ! ,/reet ,c>--,ent]+ ! ,c>--,9 ! ,taxicab--,"s ,social ,errors4 ,v4 ,,at ,,! ,,!at] ,,& ,,! ,,op]a #bja ,dress at ! ,!at] & ,op]a--,ent]+ ! ,!at]--,arriv+ ,late--,ab\t ,wraps--,ord] ( ,prec$5ce--,be=e ! ,play--,:5 ! ,curta9 is ,drawn--,dur+ ! ,p]=mance--,! ,(f5d+ ,hat--,applause--,dur+ ,int]mission--,leav+ ! ,!at]4 ,,vi4 ,,hotel ,,etiquette #baj ,at ! ,hotel--,! ,woman ,gue/--,receiv+ ,mascul9e ,gue/s--,mak+ ,fri5ds at ! ,hotel--,h[ to ,regi/]--,9 ! ,public ,d9+-,room--,hotel ,/ation]y--,reg>d+ ! ,s]vants--,leav+ ! ,hotel4 ,,vii4 ,,travel ,,etiquette #bai ,! ,re/less ,urge ( ,travel--,! ,cu/oms ( ,c\ntries--,! ,travel]'s ,w>drobe--,9 ! ,tra9--,9 ! ,sleep+ ,c>--,tra9 ,c\rtesy--,! ,woman ,travel]--,! ,woman :o ,travels ) an ,escort--,9 ! ,d9+-,c>--,*ildr5 on ! ,tra9--,9 ! ,taxicab--,bon ,voyage ,gifts--,on ,bo>d ! ,%ip--,c\rtesy ( ! ,%ip--,! ,woman ,cross+ ! ,ocean--,a ,conc]t at ,sea--,at ! ,j\rney's ,end--,at ,hotel & ,re/aurant--,at ,tea-,room & ,ro(-,g>d5--,to ,^? ,:o ,love to ,travel4 ,,viii4 ,,tipp+ #bcg ,an ,un-,am]ican ,cu/om--,lavi% ,tipp+--,9 ,d9+-,room or ,d9+-,c>--,at ! ,hotel--,! ,taxi-,driv]--,on ! ,tra9--,cross+ ! ,ocean--,tips 9 ,=eign ,c\ntries4 ,,ix4 ,,etiquette ,,abroad #bdd ,! ,am]ican 9 ,=eign ,c\ntries--,on ,engli% ,soil--,address+ ,royalty--,o!r ,engli% ,titles--,& ,/ill ,o!r ,titles--,address+ ,cl]gy ,abroad--,lawy]s1 ,/atesm5 & ,(ficials--,h[ to ,address ,!m--,at ! ,c\rt ( ,engl&--,:at to ,we> to ,c\rt--,! ,k+'s ,levees--,9 ,france--,address+ ,titl$ ,p 9 ,france--,c]ta9 ,fr5* ,conv5tions--,d9n] ,etiquette--,fr5* ,w$d+ ,etiquette--,balls--,ab\t ,calls & ,c>ds--,correspond5ce--,! ,am]ican 9 ,g]many--,! ,p]fect ,am]ican ,t\ri/4 ,,app5dix #bfe ,=eign ,words 9 ,frequ5t ,social ,usage4 ,,li/ ,,( ,,illu/rations ,,ready ,,= ,,tea ,frontispiece ,,page ,,table ,,set ,,= ,,d9n] #cb ,,! ,,pun* ,,table #aab ,,! ,,buffet ,,lun* #bjh ,,"p ,,iii ,repose & *e]fulness are ! badge ( ! g5tleman1--repose 9 en]gy4 ,! ,greek battle pieces are calm2 ! h]oes1 9 :atev] viol5t actions engag$1 reta9 a s]5e aspect2 z we say ( ,niag>a1 t x falls )\t spe$4 ,a *e]ful1 intellig5t face is ! end ( culture1 & success en\gh4 ,= x indicates ! purpose ( nature & wisdom atta9$4 --,em]son4 ,,book ,,( ,,etiquette ,,*apt] ,i ,,s]vants ,,! ,,s]vant ,,9 ,,! ,,h\sehold ,a m\se c look at a k+1 b a k+ won't (t5 look at a m\se says ! old prov]b4 ,:i* is1 sadly en\gh1 ! /ate ( affairs betwe5 s]vants & mi/resses 9 _m h\seholds4 ,a great _m p feel someh[ t ^? :o labor 9 ! capacity ( s]vants are inf]ior4 ,b 9 mo/ cases1 x is ^? :o place s]vants on a l[] plane :o are !mselves inf]ior4 ,we owe ^? :o take a "p 9 ! h\sehold affairs ( our homes1 m ?an ! wages we pay !m4 ,we owe !m gratitude1 c\rtesy1 k9dness4 ,_m elaborate d9n]s w\ld be failures if x 7 n = ! sil5t memb]s ( our h\seholds4 ,_m =mal ent]ta9m5ts w\ld be impossible )\t _! help4 ,!y hold a c]ta9 place ( importance 9 ! home--& x %\ld be recogniz$ 9 ! social _w z a place wor?y ( e c\rtesy & respect4 ,= ^? :o are =tunate en\gh to h s]vants to help ) dome/ic tasks1 x is extremely important t ! correct etiquette ( s]vants be ?or\ghly kn[n & und]/ood4 ,& ^? :o s]ve z butl]s & maids & valets mu/ also "k ! little rules ( good conduct t gov]n _! duties & responsibilities4 ,! in=mation conta9$ 9 ! foll[+ p>agraphs is meant = bo? ! s]vant & ! mi/ress1 & we hope t bo? w f9d x valuable4 ,a ,,^w ,,to ,,! ,,mi/ress ,9 ! home :]e gue/s are frequ5tly ent]ta9$ & :]e ! ho/ess holds _m =mal social functions1 s]vants are ess5tial4 ,e family t c af=d to d s1 %\ld h "o1 or two1 or m s]vants accord+ to social requirem5ts & ! appo9tm5ts ( ! h\se4 ,!y %\ld be well in/ruct$ 9 _! duties & !y %\ld be expect$ to c>ry !m out faultlessly4 ,untidy1 noisy1 ill-tra9$ s]vants reflect ^u ! mann]s & conduct ( ! mi/ress h]self4 ,! mo/ common me?od ( engag+ a s]vant is ?r\gh an ag5cy4 ,"h diff]5t types ( m5 & wom5 c be f\nd1 & ! mi/ress ( ! h\sehold may be =tunate en\gh to f9d "o suit$ to h] requirem5ts4 ,sometimes %e secures a maid or butl] by ! recomm5dation ( "s o!r h\sekeep]4 ,?is me?od is usually m satisfactory ?an any o!r because x puts ?+s on a r fri5dly basis f ! />t4 ,b :e!r ! maid or butl] be engag$ by recomm5dation or ?r\gh an ag5cy1 x is important t x be cle>ly und]/ood f ! beg9n+ j :at 8 or h] duties w be4 ,& ! mi/ress %\ld n engage a s]vant unless %e feels sure t he w be able to fill ! position satisfactorily1 = x is bo? an exp5sive & provok+ process to *ange s]vants frequ5tly4 ,! fir/ few days 9 a new home are always difficult = ! s]vant4 ,! mi/ress %\ld be pati5t & consid]ate & d all %e c to make ! newcom] feel at ease 9 h] new surr\nd+s4 ,h] directions %\ld be reque/s1 n comm&s1 & %e %\ld ov]look blund]s = !y may be ! result ( ! s]vant's unfamili>ity ) ! h\sehold & its cu/oms4 ,aft] ! s]vant has be5 9 ! h\sehold ?ree weeks or a mon?1 ! mi/ress has e "r to expect him to c>ry out 8 duties correctly4 ,b we are all human1 & we all make mi/akes4 ,:5 a s]vant blund]s ?r\gh c>elessness a reprim& may be necess>y1 b to scold 9 l\d1 angry tones is mo/ ill-mann]$4 ,! well-br$ woman w nev] =get t !re is z mu* dem& = c\rtesy & k9dl9ess 9 h] relations ) h] s]vants z 9 any o!r relation 9 :i* %e is plac$4 ,!re is absolutely no reason :y please & ?ank y %\ld be omitt$ :5 we speak to ! p :o live 9 our homes & labor = our com=t & happ9ess4 ,a ,,^w ,,to ,,! ,,s]vant ,among real ,am]icans1 ) _! democratic views1 !re c be no objection to ! ^w s]vant4 ,x is a n\n1 a "n1 to d5ote p 9 a c]ta9 occupation2 j z brok]s & salesm5 & h\sewives d5ote c]ta9 p 9 o!r occupations4 ,!re=e ! s]vants :o read ^! s5t5ces1 & ! wom5 :o h s]vants 9 _! h\seholds1 %\ld int]pret ! ^w 9 ! _s x is writt5--t ( true ,am]ican c\rtesy & respect4 ,dome/ic s]vice requires a c]ta9 "* lack+ 9 mo/ o!r pr(essions4 ,z a s]vant1 y c>e = ! ?+s ( o!rs & x %\ld be done ) z mu* att5tion & reg>d z if !y 7 y\r own4 ,y att5d to y\r duties day aft] day1 p]si/+ 9 "w :i* may sometimes become monoton\s & :i* w\ld be easy en\gh to %irk1 b :i* y d = ! com=t & pleasure ( y\r mi/ress4 ,y f9d y\rself 9 ! position ( keep+ o!r p's prop]ty attractive1 putt+ o!r p's visitors at ease & be+ economical ) o!r p's money4 ,& we repeat aga9 t x requires a c]ta9 high /amp ( "* t is n f\nd 9 mo/ pr(essions4 ,tid9ess is v important 9 bo? m5 & wom5 s]vants4 ,! maid :o s]ves at ! d9n] table mu/ we> a fre% new bl\se & a crisp apron4 ,soil$ f+]-nails or unclean h&s are inexcusable4 ,! well-tra9$ s]vant pres5ts always an immaculate1 well-groom$ appe>ance4 ,x h>dly seems necess>y to m5tion t ! s]vant mu/ be scrupul\sly hone/4 ,p]haps1 9 _! capacity 9 ! home1 !y are expos$ to unusual temptations--b t is j ! reason :y !y %\ld refra9 f di%one/y ( any k9d1 ev5 ! slighte/ lie4 ,gossip ab\t ! family life ( ! p !y are s]v+ %\ld also be avoid$ by s]vants4 ,! s]vant %\ld rememb] t :e!r %e be maid or mi/ress1 %e c be cultur$4 ,! well-br$1 well-tra9$ maid is nev] sull5 or p]v]se4 ,nor is h] mann] s]vile or haughty4 ,%e is respectful to h] employ]s1 b %e does n cr+e4 ,%e does h] duties c>efully1 consci5ti\sly & ?or\ghly1 & %e c>ries out ! comm&s ( h] mi/ress )\t "q4 ,if1 h[ev]1 a maid ?9ks t a c]ta9 task c\ld be done mu* m quickly & satisfactorily 9 ano!r way1 %e may sugge/ x to h] mi/ress & reque/ h] p]mission to d x 9 t way4 ,if %e is reprim&$ = a mi/ake1 %e %\ld n become rude or angry1 b rema9 calm & answ] quietly4 ,x w n be long be=e h] mi/ress1 if %e is ! "r sort ( mi/ress1 recognizes h] sup]ior qualities1 h] good mann]s & consci5ti\s "w1 & w respond by treat+ h] 9 l mann]4 ,undue famili>ity f ! maid is n to be c\nt5anc$4 ,b _m times a c]ta9 und]/&+ fri5dl9ess develops betwe5 a fai?ful maid & a k9d & c\rte\s mi/ress--a fri5d%ip 9 :i* rigid class di/9ctions are n suffici5t to =m a b>ri]4 ,let ^? ( u :o are s]vants rememb] t x is only 9 help+ o!rs t true happ9ess is f\nd1 & t ! _w is quick to recognize & rew>d true1 loyal1 s9c]e s]vice4 ,,h[ ,,to ,,address ,,s]vants ,h\sehold s]vants are usually address$ by _! fir/ names4 ,x is inde$ bad =m to address a s]vant by "s abbreviat$ nickname1 su* z ,lizzy = ,elizabe? or ,maggie = ,m>g>et4 ,! full fir/ "n %\ld be us$4 ,a pleasant ,good morn+1 ,m>g>et1 />ts ! day "r1 bo? = ! mi/ress & ! maid4 ,9 ,engl& ! surname is pref]r$ b !y d n h to cont5d ) all ! =eign importations 9 ! way ( names t we h "h 9 ,am]ica4 ,x is c]ta9ly bett] to call ,john ,so5ni*s5 ,john1 ?an to use 8 surname4 ,a butl] or *auffeur is usually address$ by 8 surname unless he is a man :o has s]v$ ! family = _m ye>s4 ,! gold5 rule ( ,?ank y is j z gold5 :5 x applies to our s]vants4 ,x is only ! extremely disc\rte\s man or woman :o w address s]vants 9 a p]emptory1 rude tone4 ,& x is especially ill-br$ & unk9d to be ov]be>+ to s]vants 9 ! pres5ce ( gue/s1 or to scold "o s]vant 9 ! pres5ce ( ano!r4 ,,! ,,*ild ,,& ,,! ,,s]vant ,insol5ce to s]vants on ! "p ( *ildr5 is z mu* a reflection on ! mann]s ( ! p>5ts1 z x is ^u ! bre$+ ( ! *ildr54 ,! *ild t he>s ! s]vants address$ 9 rude1 haughty mann] w q naturally adopt ! same mann] t[>ds !m4 ,& no "o1 *ild or adult1 c be consid]$ well-br$ unless he or %e is c\rte\s & k9d to ev]yone1 especially to ^? ^: social position is inf]ior4 ,9 ! p>k1 rec5tly1 a little tot ( six ye>s or !reab\ts _h a bag ( peanuts :i* %e (f]$ to two little playmates & also to _! "m :o 0 sitt+ ne> by4 ,see+ t %e did n (f] h] gov]ness "s peanuts1 ! woman inquir$1 ,:y don't y (f] ,miss ,taylor "s8 ,to :i* ! y\ng/] imm$iately repli$1 ,oh1 %e's only my gov]ness4 ,?is is ! result ( wrong pr9ciple 9 ! home4 ,no *ild is born a snob4 ,no *ild is born haughty & arrogant4 ,x is ! home environm5t & ! prec$5t ( ! p>5ts t makes su* va91 unk9d little *ildr5 z ! "o m5tion$ above4 ,x is actually unfair to ! "y *ildr5 9 ! home to set ! wrong example by be+ disc\rte\s to ! s]vants4 ,!y w only h to fight1 lat]1 to conqu] ! petty snobbi%ness t /&s betwe5 !m & _! entrance into good society4 ,,! ,,invisible ,,b>ri] ,9 ! sixte5? c5tury ,fr5* wom5 s]vants 7 arre/$ & plac$ 9 prison = we>+ clo!s simil> to ^? worn by _! sup]iors4 ,x develop$ t !y _h made ! g>m5ts !mselves1 copy+ !m f ! orig9al models1 sometimes sitt+ up all night to f9i% ! g>m5t4 ,b ! c\rt rul$ t x made no diff]5ce :e!r !y _h made !m !mselves or n2 !y _h worn clo!s l _! mi/resses'1 & !y mu/ be puni%$6 ,we v mu* wis] p ( ! tw5tie? c5tury smile :5 we read ( ^! ridicul\s edicts ( a long-ago c\rt--b we placidly cont9ue to condemn ! %op-girl & ! work+-girl if %e d>es to imitate ,p>isi5ne importations4 ,x is v (t5 ! same 9 ! h\sehold4 ,we ridicule ! class sy/ems ( o!r c\ntries1 yet we delib]ately build up a b>ri] betwe5 ourselves & ^? :o "w = u4 ,p]haps !re mu/ be "s su* b>ri] to keep ! social equilibrium2 b is !re any reason :y x %\ld be unk9d & disc\rte\s8 ,! mi/ress %\ld n1 ( c\rse1 confide 9 h] s]vants1 gossip ) !m1 discuss h] affairs ) !m1 ent] _! qu>rels & take sides ) !m4 ,b %e c be *e]ful1 polite1 consid]ate2 & inv>iably %e w f9d t ?is k9d ( treatm5t w br+ an imm$iate response--ev5 f ! mo/ sull5 s]vant4 ,,:5 ,,! ,,s]vant ,,speaks ,9 answ]+ ! mi/ress or ma/] ( ! h\sehold1 x is cu/om>y = ! s]vant to say1 ,yes1 madam1 or1 ,yes1 sir4 ,old s]vants1 :o h be5 = _m ye>s 9 ! employ ( ! same p1 may omit ! madam & use ! "n1 9 ?is mann]1--,yes1 ,mrs4 ,br[n4 ,su* slov5ly expressions z ,no'm or ,yessir %[ lack ( good tra9+ on ! "p ( ! s]vant1 & poor judgm5t on ! "p ( ! mi/ress4 ,brevity & civility are ! two mo/ important virtues ( ! spee* ( ! man or maid s]vant :o answ]s inquiries at ! door1 admits gue/s & takes messages4 ,9 ! latt] case1 :5 a s]vant takes a message = "o ( ! memb]s ( ! h\sehold1 a polite ,?ank y1 madam is ess5tial4 ,if !re is a d\bt z to :e!r or n ! ho/ess is at home1 ! well-tra9$ s]vant admits ! visitor1 asks h] to h a seat1 & says1 ,i w inquire4 ,he returns to say ei!r t ,madam is n at home1 or t %e w be d[n directly4 ,:5 ann\nc+ gue/s1 ! butl] %\ld ask1 ,:at "n1 please8 n 9 ! indiff]5t1 s+-song mann] s *>act]i/ic ( butl]s1 b 9 a cordial1 polite tone ( voice1 & ) a g5ial smile4 ,hav+ be5 giv5 ! names ( ! visitors1 he ann\nces !m 9 cle>1 di/9ct tones4 ,^! ann\ncem5ts are made :ile ! gue/s are ent]+ ! draw+-room4 ,a "m & two daught]s are ann\nc$ z3 ,mrs4 ,smi?1 ! ,misses ,smi?4 ,if ! giv5 names ( ! "y ladies are call$1 ! =m ( ann\ncem5t is3 ,mrs4 ,smi?1 ,miss ,smi?1 ,miss ,alice ,smi?1 ! elde/ daught] ( a family be+ giv5 ! privilege to use ! title ,miss ,smi?4 ,9 ann\nc+ a g5tleman & 8 son1 ! butl] says3 ,mr4 ,blank1 ,mr4 ,francis ,blank4 ,,! ,,s]vants ,,( ,a ,,big ,,h\se ,! small h\sehold mu/ *oose s]vants accord+ to conv5i5ce & requirem5ts4 ,:]e !re are ?ree or f\r gr[n-up daught]s & ! home is a small "o1 "o maid & "o butl] are suffici5t4 ,b 9 a v l>ge h\se ) num]\s rooms1 :]e _m social functions are held & _m h\se p>ties are giv5 by ! ho/ess a full corps ( s]vants is requir$4 ,ea* "o %\ld h c]ta91 def9ite tasks to p]=m e day4 ,9 ! luxuri\s ,am]ican home1 sev5 s]vants are usually employ$4 ,!y are a butl]1 a *auffeur1 a p>lor maid1 a cook1 a laundress1 a nurse-maid & a *amb]-maid4 ,a lady's maid & a valet are sometimes add$4 ,a footman1 laundry-maid & scull]y-maid are also add$1 sometimes1 to ! corps ( s]vants4 ,b ?is li/ may be increas$ or dim9i%$ accord+ to ! requirem5ts ( ! individual family4 ,= in/ance1 a second-man may be plac$ "u ! direction ( ! butl]2 a g>d5] & 8 assi/ants may be *>g$ ) ! c>e ( ! environs2 :ile grooms may be employ$ to c>e = ! horses 9 ! /ables4 ,b usually ^! additional s]vants are ! luxuries ( ! extremely weal?y & %\ld n be indulg$ 9 by ^? :o _c af=d !m4 ,9 ! home :]e !re are sev]al m5 s]vants & sev]al wom5 s]vants1 x is ! be/ plan = ! wife to sup]vise ! duties & responsibilities ( ! wom51 leav+ ! m5 to be direct$ by h] husb&4 ,x is important1 ?\gh1 = ! mi/ress ( ! h\se n to give c\nt] comm&s to s]vants :o are "u h] husb&'s sup]vision1 = ?is may cause a friction t is n conducive to ! be/ s]vice on ! "p ( ! help4 ,,! ,,butl] ,! duties ( ! butl] conf9e him to ! draw+-room & d9+-room4 ,! d9+-room1 h[ev]1 is 8 p>ticul> doma92 he sees t ev]y?+ is 9 ord]1 t ! table is laid correctly1 ! light+ effect satisfactory1 ! fl[]s arrang$1 & 9 %ort t ! room & appo9tm5ts are 9 p]fect read9ess = a punctual meal4 ,9 ?is "w a p>lor maid assi/s him by sweep+ & du/+1 & a pantry-maid helps him by keep+ ev]y?+ immaculate & 9 read9ess 9 ! pantry4 ,! butl] s]ves at breakfa/1 lun*eon & d9n]4 ,:]e !re is a second-man1 he may assi/ ! butl] ) ! s]v+ at d9n]2 & at l>ge ent]ta9m5ts ! maid :o assi/s 9 ! pantry may also be reque/$ to s]ve4 ,! butl] also is 9 *>ge ( ! aft]noon-tea duties1 9 homes :]e ?is cu/om prevails4 ,he br+s 9 ! tray1 arranges x = ! ho/ess & sees t ev]yone is s]v$4 ,:]e !re are only a few s]vants1 ! butl] may be expect$ to help ) ! di%es1 poli% ! silv] & assi/ 9 ! pantry4 ,b if !re are maid s]vants1 & a second-man to d ! heavi] "w1 !n he is expect$ to s]ve 9 a small measure z ! valet = ! ma/] ( ! h\se4 ,he lays out 8 ev5+ clo!s1 bru%es & presses ! g>m5ts worn 9 ! morn+1 & draws 8 ba?4 ,sometimes1 :5 8 dome/ic duties are v light1 ! butl] is reque/$ to s]ve z footman to ! mi/ress :5 %e goes rid+ 9 ! aft]noon4 ,an important duty ( ! butl] is to answ] ! door bell :5ev] x r+s4 ,he mu/ see t ! front door & ! hall is 9 ord] & well-swept1 & t ! draw+-room door is lock$ e night aft] ! family has retir$4 ,a great deal ( ! com=t & pleasure ( ! family dep5ds ^u ! mann] 9 :i* ! butl] att5ds to 8 duties4 ,,correct ,,dress ,,= ,,! ,,butl] ,neatness ( attire is extremely important4 ,! butl] %\ld be clean-%av51 & he %\ld n fail to be fre%-%av5 e day4 ,8 hair %\ld n be closely cropp$1 b cut loosely1 & x %\ld be well-bru%$ at all times4 ,well-kept nails are1 ( c\rse1 v important n only = ! butl] b = anyone :o s]ves at ! table or has any?+ to d ) ! food4 ,z ne>ly z possible1 ! butl]'s co/ume %\ld p>allel ! foll[+ description1 b ea* pass+ season f9ds "s m9or detail slightly *ang$1 & ea* new season f9ds a slight v>iation f ! co/ume ( ! season be=e4 ,s ! be/ ?+ to d is to f9d out def9itely f a reliable clo?i] or f ! m5's furni%+ dep>tm5t ( a l>ge dep>tm5t /ore1 j :at ! butl]'s co/ume ( ! pres5t "t consi/s (4 ,ord9>ily1 ! butl] we>s :ite l95 9 ! morn+1 ) black or d>k gray tr\s]s1 a black wai/coa/ t buttons high1 & a swall[-tail coat4 ,x is also p]missible = him to we> a %ort r\ndtail coat 9 ! morn+ h\rs2 x is simil> to ! g5tleman's tailless ev5+ coat1 b x is n fac$ ) silk4 ,a black or d>k tie & black %oes complete ! outfit1 :i* is worn until aft] ! midday meal4 ,if gue/s are to be ent]ta9$ at lun*eon1 ! butl] we>s 8 aft]noon & ev5+ liv]y4 ,o!rwise he dons x only aft] lun*eon or ab\t ?ree o'clock 9 ! aft]noon4 ,x consi/s ( complete black ev5+ dress simil> 9 cut & /yle to t worn by g5tlem54 ,!re are no braid+s or fac+s1 ?\gh ! mat]ial ( ! suit may be e :it z excell5t 9 quality z t worn by ! ma/] ( ! h\se4 ,! butl] does n we> a :ite wai/coat1 a wat* *a91 or jewel$ /uds ) 8 aft]noon or ev5+ liv]y4 ,nor may he we> a b\tonni]e or an ass]tive tie or pat5t lea!r %oes4 ,& x is extremely bad ta/e = him to use p]fume ( any k9d4 ,he we>s :ite l95 ) pla9 :ite /uds 9 ! %irt front1 a /&+ coll>1 :ite lawn tie & pla9 black %oes4 ,8 wat* is slipp$ into 8 wai/coa/ pocket )\t *a9 or fob4 ,:ite gloves are no long] ! cu/om = m5 s]vants 9 ! private home4 ,:5 act+ z footman to 8 mi/ress 9 ! aft]noon1 ! butl] we>s ! liv]y describ$ = ! second man4 ,9 cold wea!r he is suppli$ ) a long footman's coat2 & he is also suppli$ ) a top hat & gloves1 all mat*+ 9 color & /yle ^? worn by ! *auffeur4 ,,! ,,second ,,man ,! second man may be employ$ exclusively = ! h\se1 or he may be employ$ solely to s]ve z footman1 sitt+ next to ! *auffeur :5 ! mi/ress is motor+4 ,9 ! latt] case he we>s ! regul> liv]y mat*+ t worn by ! *auffeur4 ,b usually a second man is expect$ to help 9 ! h\se besides s]v+ z footman4 ,he assi/s ! butl] by answ]+ ! door bell :5ev] ! o!r is busy or occupi$ else:]e4 ,he wa%es di%es & w9d[s & poli%es ! silv]4 ,he t5ds to ! op5 fireplace 9 w9t]1 & to ! arrang+ ( ! fl[]s 9 ! summ]4 ,! v]&a1 front /eps & c\rty>d are also 9 8 c>e4 ,& :5 !re are gue/s = d9n]1 or at a l>ge ent]ta9m5t1 he helps s]ve at ! table4 ,! liv]y ( ! second man is ! same indoors all day2 he does n *ange = ! ev5+4 ,x consi/s ( coat & tr\s]s ( "o solid color det]m9$ by ! heads ( ! h\se4 ,x is usually a v d>k gre51 br[n1 gray or blue1 & ! outside edge ( ! tr\s] leg is pip$ 9 "s contra/+ color4 ,! coat is usually swall[-tail 9 cut1 & is ornam5t$ ) brass or silv] buttons on ! tails1 on ! cuffs & d[n ! front4 ,lately ?is vogue ( ! brass & silv] button is disappe>+4 ,! color worn by ! second man %\ld be ! pr$om9at+ color worn by all ! o!r liv]i$ s]vants 9 ! h\sehold4 ,x is c]ta9ly n good =m to h ! *auffeur we> "o color ( liv]y1 & ! footman next to him we> liv]y ( an entirely diff]5t color & cut4 ,) 8 liv]y describ$ above1 ! second man we>s a wai/coat ( ,val5cia1 /rip$ 9 ! two colors t appe> on ! coat & tr\s]s4 ,x is usually cut ,v %ape1 disclos+ :ite l95 9 :i* are fa/5$ two pla9 :ite /uds1 a /&+ coll>1 & a :ite lawn tie4 ,:5 he s]ves z footman1 ! second man may ei!r be reque/$ to don complete c> liv]y1 or he may we> a long footman's ov]coat1 top hat & gloves ov] 8 h\se liv]y4 ,a clean %av5 face & well-bru%$1 close-clipp$ hair are pleas+ *>act]i/ics ( ! second man4 ,untid9ess1 ill-kept h&s & nails1 & ! use ( jewelry or p]fume %\ld n be tol]at$ 9 ! second man1 :e!r he s]ves only z footman1 or 9 ! h\se4 ,:5 he helps ! butl] at ! d9n] table1 he %\ld be especially immaculate 9 appe>ance4 ,,! ,,*auffeur ,! gallant coa*man ( a decade ago has giv5 way to ! *auffeur ( to-day4 ,b we f9d t 8 liv]y is no less important--x is gov]n$ by a v def9ite conv5tion4 ,9 w9t]1 = in/ance1 ! *auffeur we>s long tr\s]s ( melton or k]sey or simil> mat]ial & a d\ble-brea/$ greatcoat ( ! same mat]ial4 ,! coll> & cuffs may be ( a contra/+ color or ( ! same color z ! re/ ( ! mat]ial4 ,he we>s a flat cap ) a /iff visor & a b& ( ! same contra/+ color t appe>s on ! coll> & cuffs ( ! coat4 ,d>k gloves & %oes are worn4 ,sometimes1 in/ead ( long tr\s]s1 ! *auffeur we>s knee-tr\s]s ) lea!r legg+s4 ,if desir$1 a d\ble r[ ( brass1 silv] or poli%$ horn buttons may decorate ! front ( ! greatcoat1 b ?is mu/ be det]m9$ by ! prevail+ cu/om4 ,if ! wea!r is extremely cold1 ! *auffeur %\ld be provid$ ) a long coat ( goat or wolf-sk91 or "s o!r suitable protection aga9/ ! cold & w9d4 ,dur+ ! summ] mon?s1 ! *auffeur usually we>s gray or br[n cords1 develop$ 9 ! conv5tional /yle4 ,8 cap & gloves mat*4 ,,duties ,,( ,,! ,,*auffeur ,! complete c>e ( ! c> or c>s devolves ^u ! *auffeur4 ,he mu/ see t x is always spotless & %9+1 t x is 9 good condition & w n break d[n dur+ a trip1 & t x is 9 read9ess :5ev] ! own]s want to use x4 ,:5 ! mi/ress goes motor+1 ! *auffeur /&s at ! door ( ! c> until %e ent]s1 arranges ! robes & sees t %e is com=table be=e tak+ 8 own place4 ,^u receiv+ h] ord]s1 he t\*es ! rim ( 8 cap4 ,x is n necess>y1 h[ev]1 ^u rea*+ ! de/9ation = ! *auffeur to desc5d & op5 ! door = 8 mi/ress4 ,8 place is at ! :eel & t is :]e he rema9s4 ,b if !re is a second man to assi/ ! *auffeur1 :o accompanies him on e trip z a motor footman1 he %\ld desc5d & /& at att5tion :ile ! mi/ress em]ges f ! c>4 ,! footman dresses l ! *auffeur4 ,he leaves c>ds :5 ! mi/ress makes h] social calls1 & he r+s h\se bells = h]4 ,he is also expect$ to be useful 9 p]=m+ p]sonal s]vice = ! mascul9e memb]s ( ! h\sehold4 ,v (t5 x happ5s t a t\ri/1 in/ead ( hir+ a c> & *auffeur :5 he rea*es a /range c\ntry1 desires to take 8 own c> & *auffeur ) him4 ,he mu/ be sure to arrange be=eh& to h ! man admitt$ to ! =eign c\ntry1 = neglig5ce may cause him mu* delay & tr\ble :5 he rea*es ! bord]-l9e4 ,he mu/ also arrange = ! sleep+ & eat+ facilities ( 8 *auffeur :5 !y /op = a day or two 9 a t[n or village4 ,x is n "r to expect him to eat ) ! s]vants1 nor w he wi% to eat at ! same table ) 8 employ]4 ,x is wise/ to give him an all[ance & p]mit him to eat & sleep :]e he pleases4 ,,! ,,valet ,! bus9ess ( ! valet is to att5d to all ! com=ts & desires ( ! ma/] ( ! h\se4 ,he takes no "p 9 ! g5]al h\sework1 except 9 an em]g5cy4 ,! valet does n we> liv]y4 ,indoors1 9 ! ev5+ & dur+ ! day1 he we>s d>k gray or black tr\s]s1 :ite l951 a high-button$ black wai/coat & a pla9 black swall[-tail$ coat or "o cut ) %ort r\nd$ tails4 ,he we>s a d>k tie & dull lea!r %oes4 ,he may also we> an inconspicu\s p9 9 8 tie & simple cuff-l9ks2 b a display ( jewelry is n p]missible4 ,x may happ5 t a butl] is ill or call$ away1 or t !re is a %ortage ( s]vants dur+ a l>ge ent]ta9m5t4 ,9 ?is case ! valet may be call$ ^u to s]ve z a butl]1 & he !n we>s complete butl]'s dress1 ) ! long-tail$ coat4 ,:5 travel+ ) 8 employ]1 ! valet we>s an inconspicu\s morn+ suit ( d>k gray1 br[n or blue twe$ 9 ! conv5tional /yle4 ,he completes ?is outfit ) a black or br[n d]by hat & black lea!r %oes4 ,! duties ( ! valet are z foll[s3 he bru%es1 presses1 cleans1 packs or lays out ! clo!s ( 8 employ]1 draws ! wat] = 8 ba?1 & assi/s him to dress4 ,he keeps 8 w>drobe 9 ord] & packs & unpacks 8 trunks :5ev] he is travel+4 ,he does all 8 err&s1 buys 8 railway & /eam%ip tickets1 pays 8 bills1 & c>ries 8 h&-luggage :5 !y are travel+ toge!r4 ,sometimes he %aves him1 ord]s 8 clo!s1 & writes 8 bus9ess lett]s4 ,b ^! duties are expect$ only ( accompli%$ valets4 ,he does n1 h[ev]1 make ! b$ or sweep or du/ 8 employ]'s room4 ,,! ,,page ,! page is a v conv5i5t s]vant to h :5 !re is no second-man or :5 !re are no m5-s]vants at all4 ,8 duties are _m & v>i$4 ,he runs err&s = ev]yone 9 ! h\se1 assi/s ! p>lor-maid1 looks aft] ! op5 fire places & op5s ! door to call]s4 ,sometimes he ev5 s]ves z a sort ( m9iature footman1 sitt+ next to ! *auffeur 9 complete footman liv]y4 ,! liv]y = ! page boy is ! same dur+ ! day & ev5+4 ,x is a simple1 neat coat & tr\s]s ( d>k clo? pip$ ) ! contra/+ liv]y color ( ! family 9 :i* he s]ves4 ,! coat fits ! body snugly1 & ends at ! wai/l9e except = a slight po9t at back & front4 ,metal buttons set z closely toge!r z possible fa/5 ! coat f top to bottom4 ,! tr\s]s are pip$ or braid$ 9 ! contra/+ color d[n ! outside ( ! leg4 ,:ite l95 %\ld %[ at ! wri/s & above ! high coll> ( ! coat1 b !re %\ld be no tie4 ,black calf sk9 %oes complete ! outfit1 & :5 ! page is out ( doors1 he we>s a r\nd cap to mat* 8 suit4 ,! bullet-%ap$ metal buttons d[n ! front ( ! coat1 & ?ree ( ! same buttons sew$ on ! outside seam ( ! cuffs1 h e>n$ = ! page ! r appropriate "n ( ,buttons4 ,,! ,,maid-,,s]vants ,:e!r !re is only "o maid-s]vant 9 ! h\se1 or _m1 _! duties %\ld be cle>ly def9$ & und]/ood4 ,x is ! only way to avoid qu>rel+ & misund]/&+ among ! s]vants !mselves4 ,let ea* "o und]/& f ! v fir/ day he beg9s "w j :at 8 duties are4 ,9 ?is case z 9 _m ano!r an ounce ( prev5tion is wor? a p\nd ( cure4 ,if !re are qu>rels among ! s]vants ! mi/ress %\ld n int]f]e nor take sides4 ,if possible %e %\ld remove ! cause ( ! friction1 & = a s]i\s fault %e %\ld dis*>ge ! "o t is caus+ ! di/urbance4 ,! s]vices ( ! waitress are conf9$ to ! draw+-room floor4 ,%e s]ves breakfa/1 lun*eon & d9n]1 & aft]noon tea :]e x is ! cu/om4 ,?is is assum+1 h[ev]1 t !re is no butl] 9 ! home4 ,9 ?is case %e att5ds to all ! o!r duties t w\ld ord9>ily fall ^u him4 ,%e answ]s ! door-bell1 poli%es ! silv]1 helps ) ! wa%+ ( ! di%es & sees t ! table is correctly laid = ea* meal4 ,! p>lor maid is a luxury enjoy$ only by families ( great weal?4 ,%e is expect$ to devote h] "t & att5tion :olly to ! draw+-room & d9+-room1 assi/+ ! waitress 9 ! pantry & keep+ ! libr>y & draw+-room 9 ord]4 ,b 9 ! av]age com=table home ( ,am]ica !re are usually only two maids1 a h\semaid & a waitress 7) p]haps ! additional s]vices ( a cook7 & ^! two maids h ! c>e ( ! d9+1 liv+ & b$rooms divid$ betwe5 !m4 ,! dress ( ! h\se-maids is v mu* alike4 ,! waitress1 or p>lor maid1 we>s a pla91 light-color$ dress 9 ! morn+ ) a r l>ge apron1 & a small :ite cap4 ,! *amb]maid's co/ume is v mu* ! same4 ,9 ! aft]noon ! p>lor maid or waitress *anges to a black s]ge dress 9 w9t]1 or a black popl9 9 summ]1 ) :ite l95 cuffs & coll>s & a small :ite apron4,a 7,see footnote47 ,a ,! co/umes = maid-s]vants *ange frequ5tly1 only 9 slight details1 b en\gh to w>rant specific rese>* at ! "t ! s]vant is outfitt$4 ,a l>ge dep>tm5t /ore1 or a /ore devot$ exclusively to ! liv]ies ( s]vants1 w be able to tell y exactly ! correct co/umes = maid-s]vants at ! pres5t "t4 ,or y may f9d ! desir$ in=mation 9 a curr5t h\sekeep+ magaz9e4 ,! maid-s]vants nev] we> jewelry or o!r f9]y :ile !y are on duty4 ,"o v simple broo*1 or p]haps a pair ( cuff l9ks1 is p]missible2 b bracelets1 r+s & neck ornam5ts are 9 bad ta/e4 ,elaborate dress+ ( ! hair %\ld also be avoid$1 & c>eless1 untidy dress+ %\ld nev] be c\nt5anc$4 ,,lady',s ,,maid ,! lady's maid does n take "p 9 ! g5]al h\sework4 ,h] duties are solely to c>e = ! w>drobe ( h] mi/ress1 to assi/ h] at h] toilette1 to draw h] ba?1 to lay out h] clo!s & keep h] room tidy4 ,b %e does n sweep or du/ ! room or make ! b$--^! are ! duties ( ! *amb]-maid4 ,if %e is an accompli%$ maid %e w probably d a great deal ( sew+1 & p]haps %e w massage h] mi/ress' hair & manicure h] nails4 ,b ^! duties are n to be expect$2 ! mi/ress :o f9ds h] maid is will+ to d ^! ?+s = h]1 is inde$ =tunate4 ,a black dress 9 w9t]1 & a black skirt & wai/ 9 summ]1 worn ) a small1 da9ty :ite apron comprises ! co/ume ( ! lady's maid4 ,/iff :ite cuffs & coll> add a t\* ( prim neatness :i* is mo/ desirable4 ,at ! pres5t "t1 ! t9y :ite cap =m]ly worn by lady's maids has be5 almo/ entirely disp5s$ )4 ,:5 travel+ ) h] mi/ress1 ! lady's maid %\ld we> only v simple & inconspicu\s clo!s4 ,a twe$ suit worn ) a neat bl\se1 or a twe$ coat worn ov] a simple dress1 is ! be/ =m4 ,any?+ gaudy or elaborate worn by a lady's maid is fr[n$ ^u by polite society4 ,,! ,,nurse-,,maid ,! nurse-maid %\ld be v p>ticul> ab\t h] dress4 ,%e %\ld always be faultlessly attir$1 h] hair neat & well-bru%$1 h] entire appe>ance display+ a tidy cleanl9ess4 ,9 ! h\se ! nurse-maid we>s a simple dress ( wool or heavy mat]ial ) a :ite apron & :ite coll> & cuffs4 ,9 w>m] wea!r %e we>s l95 or popl9 ) ! apron & coll> & cuffs4 ,outdoors1 %e we>s a long full cloak ov] h] h\se dress4 ,,duties ,,( ,,h\se-,,maid ,! cook1 :o is always dress$ spotlessly 9 :ite1 does no?+ outside ! kit*5 unless special arrangem5ts h be5 made to ! contr>y4 ,%e keeps ! kit*5 tidy & clean1 cooks ! meals1 helps ) ! di%es & p]haps att5ds to ! furnace4 ,! waitress op5s & airs ! liv+-rooms1 du/s ! rooms & gets ev]y?+ 9 read9ess = breakfa/4 ,x is cu/om>y to excuse h] z soon z ! pr9cipal "p ( ! breakfa/ has be5 s]v$1 s t %e may att5d to h] *amb]-"w & be ready to come d[n to h] breakfa/ by ! "t ! family has f9i%$4 ,h[ev]1 be=e %e goes to h] own breakfa/1 %e is expect$ to cle> ! d9+-room table & take ! di%es into ! kit*54 ,if ! waitress does n help ) ! *amb]-"w1 ?is duty falls entirely ^u ! *amb]-maid4 ,%e mu/ make ! b$s1 sweep & du/ ! b$rooms1 & keep !m immaculate4 ,! mi/ress %\ld inspect ! *amb]-"w occasionally = s]vants mu/ n be p]mitt$ to feel t c>elessness 9 details w be ov]look$4 ,& ! mi/ress %\ld also take c>e ( h] own l95-closet1 unless %e has a v tru/wor?y & compet5t s]vant2 = l95s %\ld be worn alike1 & n "s worn con/antly & o!rs all[$ to lie =gott5 9 a corn] ( ! closet4 ,,9 ,,conclusion ,a good s]vant--& by good we mean a man or woman :o goes ab\t duties *e]fully1 is respectful & will+1 :o is neat1 well-mann]$ & well-tra9$--mu/ be treat$ 9 ! "r mann] if he or %e is to rema9 su*4 ,!re are s _m blund]s ! mi/ress c make1 s _m mi/akes t br+ ! wrong response f ^? :o are tempor>ily a "p ( h] h\sehold4 ,= in/ance1 a haughty1 arrogant mann] t[>ds a s]vant :o is s5sitive w by no means enc\rage t s]vant to d 8 or h] be/ "w4 ,& on ! o!r h&1 a s]vile mann] t[>ds a good s]vant "o is afraid ( los+1 enc\rages t s]vant to take lib]ties & become unduly famili>4 ,x is z difficult to be a good mi/ress z x is to be a good s]vant4 ,bo? duties require a ke5 und]/&+ & appreciation ( human nature1 a k9dl9ess ( _s & a desire to be helpful4 ,bo? ! s]vant & ! mi/ress h _! trials & tr\bles1 b !y %\ld rememb] t x is only ?r\gh mutual helpfulness & consid]ation1 an exact+ att5tion to duties & responsibilities1 a wise sup]vision & a fai?ful s]vice1 t h>mony & happ9ess c be rea*$ 9 ! home4 ,& bo? %\ld be> 9 m9d t ?is h>mony & happ9ess is some?+ wor?-:ile /riv+ =1 some?+ wor?-:ile be+ pati5t & p]si/5t =4 ,!re is an old prov]b :i* lit]ally translat$ means1 ,by ! s]vant ! ma/] is kn[n4 ,x is a good prov]b = bo? ! s]vant & ! mi/ress to rememb]4 ,,*apt] ,,ii ,,d9n]s ,,ab\t ,,! ,,am]ican ,,ho/ess ,! greate/ pride ( ! ,am]ican ho/ess is h] =mal d9n]4 ,& x is to h] cr$it t we m5tion t %e c hold h] own aga9/ ! mo/ ari/ocratic families ( ,europe4 ,!re is a /ory told ( a well-kn[n ,new ,york society matron :o gave a =mal d9n] p>ty on e occasion t w>rant$ x1 no matt] h[ trivial1 = ! reason t x gave h] ke5 pleasure & enjoym5t to d s4 ,at "o ( h] d9n]s rec5tly a fam\s _w-t\r+ lectur] 0 ! gue/ ( honor--& ! ho/ess 0 z happy & pr\d z x is possible = a ho/ess to be4 ,especially 0 %e pr\d ( ! delectable m5u %e _h ord]$ prep>$ = ! occasion4 ,b mu* to h] *agr91 %e notic$ t h] di/+ui%$ gue/ 0 n eat+ ! tempt+ hot di%es--only ! vegetables1 & reli%es & fruits4 ,%e did n wi% to appe> rude1 b %e c\ld n wait until d9n] 0 ov] be=e ask+ him :y he 0 n eat+4 ,i am a veget>ian1 he answ]$1 & ,i nev] indulge 9 meats4 ,! ho/ess-(-_m-d9n]s _h an inspiration4 ,"h 0 an opportunity to give a unique d9n]--& no?+ c\ld be m delightful = h]4 ,a week lat]1 %e s5t out invitations to all h] fri5ds reque/+ _! pres5ce at ano!r =mal d9n] to be held 9 honor ( ! visit+ lectur]4 ,?is "t x 0 a veget>ian d9n]4 ,suffice to say t x 0 a huge success4 ,su* is ! hospitality ( our ,am]ican ho/esses t !y w conc$e to e :im & desire ( _! gue/s4 ,!y mu/ be pleas$ at all co/s4 ,! d9n] is n a success unless ea* gue/ leaves a little happi] ?an :5 he came--& incid5tally a little bett] pleas$ ) ! p]son :o happ5s to be giv+ ! d9n]4 ,,plann+ ,,! ,,=mal ,,d9n] ,fir/ 9 importance1 ( c\rse1 is :5 %all ! =mal d9n] be held8 ,any ev5+ ( ! week may be select$--al?\gh ,sunday is r>ely *os54 ,! h\r is usually betwe5 sev5 & eight o'clock4 ,invitations %\ld be mail$ a week or t5 days be=e ! date set = ! d9n]4 ,! ho/ess may use h] own judgm5t 9 decid+ :e!r ! invitations %\ld be engrav$ on c>ds1 or h&-writt5 on note pap]4 ,! =m] is pref]r$ = an elaborate d9n]1 ! latt] = a small "o4 ,x mu/ be rememb]$ 9 invit+ gue/s to d9n]1 t x is a brea* ( etiquette to invite a wife )\t h] husb&1 or ! opposite4 ,a m>ri$ c\ple mu/ always be invit$ toge!r4 ,if !re are o!r memb]s ( ! family :o are desir$ z gue/s at ! d9n]1 sep>ate invitations mu/ be s5t to !m4 ,a d9n] c>d is always address$ to a husb& & wife1 & individually to s+le p]sons4 ,= ! conv5i5ce ( ! ho/1 x is a po9t ( c\rtesy = e recipi5t ( an invitation to d9n]1 to answ] promptly4 ,a good rule is to decide imm$iately ^u receiv+ x :e!r or n y w be able to att5d1 & foll[ x ) a cordial answ] )9 ! next tw5ty-f\r h\rs4 ,if y f9d t y mu/ refuse1 !re mu/ be a v good reason = do+ s4 ,9 plann+ ! d9n] p>ty1 ! ho/ess mu/ g ov] h] li/ ( fri5ds & c>efully select six or eight :o w\ld naturally be mo/ cong5ial toge!r4 ,! numb] may ev5 be z l[ z f\r1 & :ile !re c be no absolute limit to ! numb] "o may invite1 !re mu/ nev] be m ?an ! ho/ess c h&le easily4 ,if ! gue/s are *os5 c>efully1 ) a reg>d = _! likes & dislikes1 ! d9n] is b\nd to be a happy "o4 ,,arrang+ ,,! ,,table ,to set ! =mal d9n] table correctly is an art 9 itself4 ,! appo9tm5ts ( ! mod]n d9n] table are a delight4 ,s]vices are ( silv] & *9a is ( ! f9e/4 ,bo? ! squ>e or r\nd table are appropriate1 ! latt] be+ ! mo/ popul> s9ce x is easi] to make attractive4 ,a mat ( asbe/os or a ?ickness ( canton flannel is fir/ spread on ! table4 ,ov] ?is comes ! sn[y1 l95 table-cov]1 fall+ gracefully ov] ! sides ) ! f\r po9ts almo/ t\*+ ! floor4 ,a place is laid = ea* gue/4 ,! mo/ fa%ionable me?od is to h a l>ge lace or embroid]$ doily 9 ! c5t] ( ! table1 & small] ones indicat+ ! position ( ! gue/s4 ,a c5t]piece ( glass1 *9a1 silv]1 is usually us$1 ov] ! doily or )\t x1 & on top ( ?is fl[]s4 ,delicate f]ns are sometimes us$ in/ead ( fl[]s1 al?\gh roses 7hot-h\se roses :5 no o!rs are obta9able7 are always ! favorite at an elaborate d9n]4 ,,/>t+ ,,at ,,! ,,c5t] ,:5 ! c5t] ornam5t has be5 adju/$1 x may be us$ z a ma!matical base = all ! re/ ( ! table appo9tm5ts4 ,c&le/icks1 ei!r ( silv] or bronze1 are arti/ic :5 plac$ at equal di/ance ar\nd ! fl[]s4 ,!y diffuse a s(t light ^u ! table1 & by be+ an inc5tive to ! recall+ ( old memories1 !y invoke conv]sation :5 !re is dang] ( its lagg+4 ,x is "o ( ! *>ms ( c&lelight--?is p[] to br+ up pleasant rem9isc5ces4 ,betwe5 ^! /ately gu>dians ( ! floral c5t]piece may be plac$ small di%es conta9+ pres]v$ g+]1 mac>oons or bon-bons4 ,salt-cell>s & pepp]-boxes are next locat$ on ! table1 & ! places are laid = ! gue/s4 ,! prop] numb] ( =ks is plac$ to ! left4 ,! knives & spoons are plac$ at ! "r4 ,!y are plac$ 9 ! ord] 9 :i* !y are to be us$4 ,n m ?an ?ree =ks %\ld ev] appe> on ! table at "o "t4 ,if o!rs are ne$$ !y %\ld be plac$ ) _! respective c\rses4 ,a small squ>e ( bread1 or a roll1 is 9 ! c5t]1 cov]$ ) ! fold$ napk91 & a little to ! left are ! sev]al glasses4 ,c>e mu/ be tak5 9 arrang+ ! d9n] table to h bo? sides balanc$4 ,!re is an old maxim t says1 ,!re mu/ be a use = ev]y?+ & ?is holds especially true ( ! table ( good ta/e4 ,x mu/ n be litt]$ ) useless articles1 no matt] h[ arti/ic or odd1 = !y hamp] ! movem5ts ( ! gue/s & make ?+s unnecess>ily cr[d$4 ,butt] r>ely appe>s on ! table at ! =mal d9n]2 & condim5ts are br\ght 9 by ! s]vant only z !y are ne$$4 ,,"s ,,important ,,details ,m5u-c>ds are no long] us$ at ! =mal d9n]1 unless x is 9 celebration ( "s auspici\s occasion & honor$ gue/s are pres5t4 ,9 ?is case1 ! ho/ess has ! m5us pr9t$ or engrav$ 9 a delicate script & has "o plac$ beside ! plate ( ea* gue/4 ,a favorite fa%ion is to h !m pr9t$ 9 ,fr5*4 ,sometime "o ( ^! c>ds s]ves = two gue/s1 al?\gh ! ho/ess :o takes a pride 9 h] d9n]s w provide ea* gue/ ) "o1 z x s]ves z an appropriate s\v5ir ( ! occasion4 ,! light+ effect ( ! d9+-room is important4 ,in/ead ( ! c&les on ! table !re may be an electric clu/] high above ! table1 or small c&le-p[] electric lights on ! walls4 ,^! latt] produce a s(t effect :i* is mo/ pleas+4 ,gl>+ lights ( any k9d %\ld be avoid$4 ,c&les & electric lights %\ld nev] be us$ 9 conjunction4 ,!re is no?+ m conducive to ?or\gh enjoym5t ( an ev5+1 to ! ?or\gh enjoym5t ( a m5u1 ?an :5 table & appo9tm5ts are p]fect & arti/ically simple4 ,! ho/ess %\ld give z mu* "t & ?\ght to ! prep>ation & arrangem5t ( ! table1 z %e does to ! plann+ ( ! m5u4 ,%e w f9d t h] gue/s w appreciate novel light+ effects1 surpris+ color tones1 unusual s]v+ innovations4 ,& %e w f9d t a correctly laid table w add surpris+ly to ! entire success ( h] d9n] p>ty4 ,,table ,,etiquette ,! importance ( correct table etiquette _c be ov]-emphasiz$4 ,no?+ is m vulg>1 ?an clumsy1 awkw>d movem5ts at ! table1 & x is c]ta9ly a sign ( ill-bre$+ delib]ately to fail to act 9 accordance ) ! rules ( table etiquette4 ,! rules ( d9n] etiquette %\ld be /udi$ c>efully & j z c>efully foll[$1 if "o wi%es to be--& ev]yone does--a lady or a g5tleman4 ,p]haps ! mo/ important ?+ is "o's be>+ at table4 ,v (t5 y see a seem+ly cultur$ g5tleman 9 a hotel d9+-room or re/aurant play+ ) ! table silv] or abs5t-m9d$ly cl9k+ glasses toge!r4 ,?is may be ov]look$ 9 ! re/aurant1 b at a =mal d9n] x is ess5tially bad =m4 ,:5 ! h&s are n be+ us$1 !y %\ld re/ quietly 9 ! lap--nev] %\ld ! elb[s be re/$ on ! table4 ,! *air %\ld be nei!r too ne> nor too f> f ! table2 bo? are ungraceful & awkw>d4 ,,table ,,s]vice ,! d9n] napk9 is f tw5ty to tw5ty-f\r in*es across4 ,x is fold$ squ>e unless ! table is some:at cr[d$1 :5 x may be fold$ diagonally 7aft] hav+ be5 fold$ squ>e7 s z to give m space ar\nd ! bo>d4 ,if ! napk9s are monogramm$ ! monogram %\ld be plac$ s z to be 9 pla9 view4 ,at a =mal d9n] ! fir/ c\rse is on ! table :5 ! gue/s ent] ! d9+-room4 ,x consi/s ( oy/]s1 a canape1 a fruit cocktail1 grapefruit or some?+ else ( ! same k9d4 ,oy/]s on ! half-%ell are s]v$ b$d$ 9 cru%$ ice 9 a s\p plate4 ,?is is plac$ on ! s]vice plate4 ,a cocktail is s]v$ 9 a cocktail glass :i* is plac$ on a doily-cov]$ plate :i* 9 turn is plac$ on ! s]vice plate4 ,! silv] = ! fir/ c\rse may be on ! table beside ! s\p spoon or x may be s]v$ ) ! c\rse4 ,! wait] removes ! fir/ c\rse entirely be=e ! s\p is plac$4 ,he /&s at ! left ( ea* gue/ & removes ! plates ) 8 left h&4 ,! s\p 9 s\p plates 7n 9 a ture57 is plac$ on ! s]vice plates & :5 ?is c\rse is ov] s]vice plates z well z s\p plates are remov$ & ! entree is s]v$4 ,if ! plates = x are empty !y are plac$ ) ! "r h& b if ! entree is already on !m !y are plac$ ) ! left4 ,if empty plates are suppli$ ! wait] passes ! entree on a platt] held on a fold$ napk9 on 8 left h&1 us+ 8 "r h& to help balance x4 ,ea* gue/ s]ves himself4 ,at ! conclusion ( ?is c\rse ! plates are remov$ & empty w>m plates plac$ = ! meat c\rse4 ,! meat %\ld be c>v$ be=e x is br\ght to ! table & aft] ! wait] has s]v$ ea* p]son he s]ves ! vegetables4 ,if !re is only "o wait] x is m conv5i5t to h ! vegetables plac$ on ! table 9 l>ge vegetable di%es f :i* ea* gue/ s]ves himself4 ,aft] ! vegetables h gone ar\nd once !y are remov$ b !y may be pass$ once or twice aga9 be=e ! conclusion ( ! meal4 ,! salad foll[s4 ,x may be s]v$ on ea* plate 7& ?is is surely ! m arti/ic way7 or x may be s]v$ f a platt]4 ,aft] ! salad ! table is cle>$ ( all plates t h be5 9 use1 ( salt & pepp] %ak]s or cell>s & is crumb$ be=e ! dess]t is br\ght 94 ,usually ! dess]t :i* is ne>ly always ice-cream or some?+ else froz5 is s]v$ 9 individual di%es4 ,small cakes are pass$ ) x4 ,o!r dess]ts besides ice-cream are s]v$ 9 mu* ! same way4 ,:5 ! dess]t has be5 remov$1 f+]-b[ls half fill$ ) wat] & plac$ on a small doily-cov]$ plate are set be=e ea* p]son4 ,c(fee may be s]v$ at ! table b x is m (t5 s]v$ 9 ! draw+-room4 ,,use ,,( ,,! ,,napk9 ,:at c be m unsightly ?an a napk9 tuck$ c>efully 9 ! top ( "o's wai/coat8 ,& /ill1 h[ (t5 "o sees x done among m5 :o believe t !y are impressively well-br$6 ,! prop] way to use a napk91 :e!r x is at a =mal d9n]1 or 9 a re/aurant1 is to unfold x only half1 leav+ ! c5t] fold z x is1 & lay x across ! knees4 ,x may be us$ con/antly dur+ ! meal1 :5ev] ! gue/ f9ds ne$ = x1 b x mu/ nev] be completely unfold$4 ,:5 ris+ f ! table1 ! napk9 is plac$ z x is on ! table4 ,x is nev] fold$ aga9 into its orig9al =m1 z t w\ld be an assumption on ! "p ( ! gue/ t ! ho/ess w\ld use x aga9 be=e laund]+4 ,a repreh5sible habit is to drop ! napk9 c>elessly into ! f+]-b[l1 or ov] ! c(fee cup4 ,x %\ld be laid on ! table1 at ! "r ( ! f+]-b[l4 ,,! ,,spoon ,,at ,,! ,,d9n] ,,table ,spoons are us$ :5 eat+ grapefruit & o!r fruits s]v$ ) cream4 ,jellies1 pudd+s1 cu/>ds1 porridges1 pres]ves & boil$ eggs are always eat5 ) spoons4 ,also1 ( c\rse1 s\p1 b\illon1 c(fee & tea4 ,9 ! case ( ! ?ree latt] bev]ages1 h[ev]1 ! spoon is us$ only to /ir !m once or twice & to ta/e !m to see t !y are ( ! desir$ temp]ature4 ,x is nev] all[$ to /& 9 ! cup :ile ! bev]age is be+ drunk4 ,nor is x p]missible to draw up a spoonful ( s\p or c(fee & bl[ ^u x2 "o mu/ wait until x is suffici5tly cool$ ( itself4 ,9 tak+ s\p1 ! correct way to use ! spoon is to dip x ) an outw>d motion in/ead ( draw+ x t[>ds "o4 ,! s\p is !n imbib$ f ! side1 n ! end4 ,,! ,,=k ,,& ,,knife ,9 us+ ! =k & knife1 "o c display a pleas+ grace1 or j ! opposite--awkw>d clums9ess4 ,x dep5ds entirely ^u h[ well "o kn[s & foll[s ! correct rules4 ,! fir/ rule to be rememb]$ is t a knife is nev] us$ = any o!r purpose ?an cutt+ food4 ,x is un=giveable to use a knife to convey food to ! m\?--un=giveable & vulg>4 ,! knife is held 9 ! "r h& & ! =k 9 ! left4 ,:5 ! desir$ morsel ( food is cut1 ! knife is laid aside tempor>ily & ! =k is %ift$ to ! "r h&4 ,! knife & =k %\ld nev] be held 9 ! same h& toge!r1 & :5 n be+ us$1 "o or bo? ( ! ut5sils %\ld re/ on ! plate4 ,!y %\ld nev] be all[$ to re/ aga9/ ! edge ( ! plate ) ! h&les on ! table2 :5 "o is ?r\gh ) bo? ! knife & =k1 !y %\ld be plac$ entirely on ! plate1 _! tips t\*+ at ! c5t]1 _! h&les re/+ aga9/ ! edge4 ,!y are nev] plac$ back aga9 on ! table4 ,! foods eat5 ) ! =k are meats1 vegetables1 fi%1 salads1 oy/]s & clams1 lob/]1 ices1 froz5 pudd+s & melons4 ,he>ts ( lettuce & lettuce leaves are fold$ up ) ! =k & convey$ uncut to ! m\?4 ,if ! leaves are too l>ge to be fold$ conv5i5tly1 !y may be cut ) ! blunt edge ( ! =k--nev] ) a knife4 ,,f+] ,,foods ,v>i\s foods are eat5 ) ! f+]s in/ead ( =k or spoon4 ,bread1 = in/ance1 is nev] cut b always brok5 into small pieces & lift$ to ! m\? ) ! f+]s4 ,butt] is seldom provid$ at ! =mal d9n]1 b if x is1 ea* little piece ( bread is butt]$ individually j be=e x is eat54 ,crack]s & cake are eat5 9 ! same way2 al?\gh "s cakes & pa/ries are eat5 ) ! =k4 ,^? t c be eat5 da9tily ) ! f+]s su* z mac>oons1 lady-f+]s1 cookies1 etc41 %\ld be eat5 s :ile lay] cake & elaborate pa/ries %\ld be eat5 ) ! =k4 ,corn on ! cob is )\t a d\bt "o ( ! mo/ difficult foods to eat gracefully4 ,& yet x is too delici\s to =ego ! pleasure ( eat+ x at all4 ,x is entirely p]missible to use ! f+]s 9 eat+ corn1 hold+ x lightly at ea* end2 sometimes a napk9 is us$ 9 hold+ x4 ,_m a =esight$ ho/ess1 :5 s]v+ corn on ! cob1 provides ea* gue/ ) a %ort1 ke51 /eel-blad$ knife ) :i* ! k]nels may be cut f ! cob easily4 ,?is is by f> ! mo/ satisfactory me?od4 ,illu/ration3 ,photo by ,bradley & ,m]rill4 ,c\rtesy ( ! ,pictorial ,review4 ,,table ,,set ,,= ,,d9n] ,! decoration 9 ! c5t] ( ! table %\ld nev] be s high z to =m an ob/ruction ,fr5* arti*okes are also difficult to eat4 ,! prop] way is to break !m ap>t1 leaf by leaf1 dip ! tips 9 ! sauce & lift !m to ! m\? ) ! f+]s4 ,! he>t is cut & eat5 ) a =k4 ,lob/] claws may be pull$ ap>t ) ! f+]s4 ,%rimps also1 :5 s]v$ :ole 9 _! %ells1 may be sep>at$1 peel$ & eat5 ) ! f+]s4 ,fruits su* z oranges1 apples1 grapes1 pea*es & plums are all eat5 ) ! f+]s4 ,cel]y1 radi%es & olives are simil>ly eat54 ,sometimes !re are o!r reli%es on ! d9n] table1 & ! gue/ mu/ use 8 common s5se to det]m9e :e!r !y are eat5 ) ! =k or f+]s4 ,bonbons1 ( c\rse1 are always eat5 ) ! f+]s4 ,:5ev] fruits are s]v$ ! f+]-b[l %\ld foll[4 ,x is always us$ at ! completion ( ! d9n]4 ,! b[l is half fill$ ) tepid wat] & set ^u a plate4 ,a fragrant leaf may be add$ to ! wat]4 ,! f+]s are dipp$ lightly into ! b[l1 "o h& at a "t1 & !n dri$ on ! napk94 ,x is a m>k ( ill-bre$+ to spla% ! wat] ab\t1 to put bo? h&s into ! b[l at once1 or to wet ! entire palm ( ! h&4 ,only ! f+] tips %\ld t\* ! wat]4 ,,table ,,accid5ts ,accid5ts w happ5--at ! d9n] table z well z any:]e else4 ,! duty ( ! gue/ & ! ho/ess bo? is to see t no confusion & emb>rassm5t foll[s4 ,if a spoon or =k or napk9 is dropp$1 ! prop] ?+ to d is to all[ ! s]vant to pick x up2 ! well-tra9$ s]vant w n return x1 b place x aside & give ! gue/ ano!r "o4 ,if a glass or cup is dropp$ & brok51 emb>rass$ apologies w n put x toge!r aga91 b a ^w ( s9c]e regret to ! ho/ess w relieve ! awkw>dness ( ! mom5t1 & w be z gratify+ to h] z pr(use apologies4 ,if ! article brok5 is a valuable "o1 ! gue/ may replace x by s5d+1 a day or two lat]1 ano!r "o z ne>ly l x z possible4 ,a cordial note ( regret may accompany x4 ,sometimes a cup ( c(fee or a glass ( wat] is ov]turn$ at ! table4 ,?is is1 ( c\rse1 a v s]i\s & unpleasant accid5t1 b !re is no necessity 9 mak+ matt]s worse by fuss+ ab\t x & (f]+ sev]al exagg]at$ apologies4 ,a simple ^w or two to ! ho/ess w suffice2 b x is really q important t "o %\ld be c>eful n to let an accid5t ( ?is k9d happ5 too (t51 o!rwise "o w soon acquire ! reputation ( be+ a clumsy boor4 ,!re is c]ta9ly no reason to feel emb>rass$ :5 an accid5t occurs at ! d9n] table--t is1 ( c\rse1 if x 0 n due to c>elessness4 ,x is n ! accid5t itself t w cause ! gue/s & ! ho/ess to consid] "o ill-br$1 b cont9u$ m5tion ( x & _m flu/]$ apologies4 ,i am sorry or ,h[ c>eless ( me6 are suffici5t (f]s ( regret--! matt] %\ld !n be =gott54 ,,! ,,ho/ess ,important inde$ are ! duties ( ! ho/ess1 = x is ^u h] t ! ultimate success ( ! d9n] dep5ds4 ,x is n en\gh to s5d out ! invitations1 plan a delectable m5u & sup]vise ! lay+ ( ! table4 ,%e mu/ af=d pleasant div]sion & ent]ta9m5t = h] gue/s f ! m9ute !y ent] h] home until !y are ready to leave4 ,! ideal ho/ess is ! "o :o c make h] gue/s1 "o & all1 feel bett] satisfi$ ) !mselves & ! _w 9 g5]al :5 !y leave h] home ?an !y did :5 !y arriv$4 ,,:5 ,,! ,,gue/s ,,arrive ,! duty ( receiv+ & welcom+ ! gue/s re/s ) ! ho/ & ho/ess4 ,!y receive 9 ! draw+-room until fifte5 or tw5ty m9utes aft] ! "t m5tion$ 9 ! invitations4 ,!n1 ev5 if !re is /ill a gue/ or two miss+1 x is cu/om>y = d9n] to be s]v$4 ,only on "o occasion does ?is rule v>y2 if ! d9n] is be+ held 9 honor ( "s celebrat$ gue/1 x may n be s]v$ until he has arriv$4 ,! ho/ess1 9 invit+ h] gue/s1 %\ld be sure t !re is an equal numb] ( m5 & wom54 ,husb&s & wives %\ld nev] be s5t into ! d9+-room toge!r4 ,! usual ord] ( prec$5ce is z foll[s3 ,! ho/ leads ) ! lady :o is to sit at 8 "r2 if ! d9n] is 9 honor ( a m>ri$ c\ple1 ! ho/ goes 9 to d9n] ) ! wife ( ! honor$ gue/2 ! ho/ess end+ ! procession ) t lady's husb&4 ,:5 !re are no gue/s ( honor ! ho/ takes ! elde/ lady pres5t4 ,usually a lady visit+ ! h\se = ! fir/ "t is ! fir/ to ent] ! d9+-room4 ,if !re is "o m woman ?an m5 9 ! p>ty1 ! cu/om>y ?+ is = ! ho/ess to ent] ! d9+-room alone aft] all h] gue/s h ent]$ x4 ,%e mu/ nev] take ! o!r arm ( ! la/ g5tleman4 ,! seat+ %\ld be arrang$ by plac+ c>ds be>+ ! names ( ea* gue/ next to ea* plate if ! p>ty is a l>ge "o4 ,?is me?od may be pursu$ if ! p>ty is small1 ?\gh1 9 ?is case x is q possible = ! ho/ess to indicate gracefully ! place :]e %e wi%es ea* gue/ to sit4 ,! gue/s :o ent] ! d9+-room toge!r sit side by side2 ! ho/ess always waits until ev]yone is seat$1 be=e %e takes h] place & motions t ! d9n] is to proce$4 ,:5 a gue/ arrives late1 ! ho/ess mu/ endeavor to make him feel at ease & unemb>rass$4 ,if ! gue/ is a woman1 %e rises1 greets h] cordially & conducts h] to h] place )\t m5tion+ h] lat5ess4 ,if x is a man1 %e m]ely b[s & smiles )\t ris+ & imm$iately />ts a lively discussion or int]e/+ conv]sation to draw att5tion away f ! late arrival4 ,9 ?is mann] he is put at ease1 & ! incid5t is promptly =gott54 ,,! ,,successful ,,ho/ess ,! ho/ess mu/ see t all h] gue/s are com=table & well tak5 c>e (4 ,%e mu/ /imulate conv]sation & help ?+s along by h]self relat+ amus+ little anecdotes or exp]i5ces4 ,%e mu/ n introduce any topic1 h[ev]1 t w\ld 9 ! lea/ detail sugge/ sc&al or gossip4 ,no?+ is m delightful1 at ! d9n] table1 :e!r =mal or in=mal1 ?an ! int]e/+ little *ats betwe5 old fri5ds & new acqua9tances4 ,special musical programs always please d9n] gue/s1 & :5 held aft] d9n] are usually appreciat$4 ,9 select+ musical numb]s ! ho/ess %\ld be> 9 m9d ! p]sonal likes & dislikes ( h] gue/s4 ,music dur+ ! meal if x is s(t en\gh n to int]f]e ) conv]sation is pleas+1 ?\gh x is n ess5tial4 ,! musicians %\ld be hidd5 beh9d palms4 ,happy is %e1 :o1 at ! conclusion ( ! =mal d9n]1 c say to h]self t ev]y?+ 0 z x %\ld be2 t ea* ( ! gue/s _h an enjoyable "t2 t ! entire d9n] _h be5 a success4 ,& %e may claim ! success ( ! ev5+ z h] own1 = x is ^u ! ho/ess t ea* phase ( successful d9n]-giv+ devolves1 ev5 :5 mo/ ( ! actual ent]ta9+ is done by "o or m ( ! gue/s4 ,,! ,,gue/ ,:5 ,gung-,yee-,f>-,*oy 7! ,*9ese two-week ,new ,ye>7 comes1 our yell[ c\s9s make _! =mal visits4 ,x is a "t ( extreme conv5tion1 & despite ! seem+ revelry & celebration1 ! /ricte/ rules are obs]v$4 ,! calls are made accord+ to ! call]s' rank4 ,"o pays visits to ^? sup]ior1 receiv+ 9 turn ^? inf]ior4 ,x is p]plex+ to "k j h[ !y decide :i* is sup]ior & :i* inf]ior 9 ea* case4 ,p]haps x is _! ,ori5tal in/9ct4 ,b ! ,am]ican gue/ does n h to det]m9e :e!r he is sup]ior to 8 ho/ & ho/ess--or ! opposite4 ,x is already decid$ = him1 by ! laws ( etiquette4 ,= ! gue/ at ! =mal d9n] mu/ accord e respect & honor to 8 ho/ & ho/ess--n 9 ! s]vile mann] ( ! coolie t[>ds ! m&>91 ( c\rse--b 9 ! captivat+ & *>m+ mann] t bespeaks ! f9e lady & g5tleman4 ,,comm5ts ,,on ,,food ,m5 & wom5 ( cultivation r>ely make comm5ts on food except to praise4 ,x is bett] to accept a little ( ea* c\rse on "o's place & eat a bit ( x al?\gh "o does n p>ticul>ly c>e = x1 ?an to refuse x entirely4 ,a highly amus+ /ory is relat$ ( a gue/ :o 0 invit$ to a =mal d9n] giv5 by a prom95t ,new ,york woman :o _h ga9$ a reputation = ! savory qualities ( ! s\ps %e s]v$4 ,on ?is occasion %e 0 especially pr\d ( h] ,grun ,yung ,waa 7,bird's-,ne/ ,s\p7--& really1 f all reports1 x mu/ h be5 rem>kably delici\s4 ,b ! gue/ we are writ+ ab\t1 sniff$ at ! s\p disda9fully & ask$1 ,is ?is "s ( t new cann$ s\p !y are adv]tis+8 ,! ho/ess blu%$--z any consci5ti\s ho/ess w\ld--& ! next "t %e issu$ invitations = d9n]1 %e someh[ =got to include ! gue/ :o read ! adv]tisem5ts s dilig5tly4 ,,second ,,help+s ,a gue/ at a =mal d9n] %\ld nev] ask = a second help+ ( any di%4 ,?is holds equally true = an elaborate lun*eon4 ,h[ev]1 ! ho/ or ho/ess may (f] to provide a second help+ to any "o ( ! gue/s :o has dispos$ ( 8 fir/ help+4 ,9 ?is case1 ! gue/ may ackn[l$ge x ) a smile1 or if 8 appetite is entirely satisfi$1 he may refuse x ) a polite ^w ( ?anks4 ,to insi/1 on ! "p ( ! ho/1 aft] ! gue/ has refus$ a second help+1 is ov]do+ ! b\nds ( hospitality1 & p]il\sly bord]s on ! v]ge ( incivility4 ,,! ,,m5u ,! ho/ess mu/ be c>eful n to apologize pr(usely = ?+s :i* are n z %e w\ld l to h !m2 x is bett] =m completely to ignore ! fact t ! salad is n crisp en\gh or t ! entree is too highly season$4 ,! entire "t sp5t at table %\ld be no m ?an an h\r & a half4 ,an h\r is usually suffici5t if ! c\rses are s]v$ ) exp$ition4 ,b !re mu/ be no semblance ( ha/e4 ,good cook books are full ( sugge/ions = delectable m5us & = ! ord] ( s]vice4 ,! butl] or maid takes complete *>ge & x is bett] to h a less elaborate d9n] ?an to h s _m c\rses t he or %e _c manage )\t ha/e1 noise1 or confusion4 ,! ord] ( s]vice dep5ds ^u ! numb] ( c\rses4 ,! cook book w help "h1 also4 ,g5]ally speak+1 oy/]s on ! half %ell buri$ 9 ice1 a cocktail1 or a fruit cup con/itutes ! fir/ c\rse4 ,?is is foll[$ by s\p1 game or fi%1 a salad1 ! roa/ & vegetables1 dess]t & c(fee4 ,9 pres5t+ ! fir/ c\rse ! lady at ! "r ( ! ho/ is s]v$ fir/4 ,aft] t ! ord] is v>i$ s t ! same p]son w n be s]v$ la/ e "t4 ,! butl] s]ves di%es f ! left & removes !m f ! "r4 ,no plates = any c\rse are remov$ until ev]yone has f9i%$4 ,x is n necess>y to wait until ev]yone is s]v$ to beg9 eat+ b x is mo/ vulg> to %[ undue ha/e4 ,x is ! duty ( ! butl] to keep ! glasses fill$ ) wat] & to see t nuts1 bonbons1 etc41 are pass$ frequ5tly4 ,:5 fruit is s]v$1 ! butl] places a glass dess]t-plate on :i* is an embroid]$ doily & f+]-b[l1 be=e ea* gue/1 & next to x a small fruit knife4 ,!n ! fruits are (f]$ to ea* gue/2 & :5 ! ho/ess is q sure t ev]yone has f9i%$1 %e makes ! sign = retir+4 ,! usual mann] ( do+ ?is1 is to cat* ! eye ( ! lady :o is ! p>tn] ( h] husb& = ! ev5+1 nod & smile to h]1 & !y bo? rise toge!r1 foll[$ imm$iately by ! o!r wom5 gue/s4 ,!y adj\rn to ! draw+-room1 :]e c(fee is s]v$ & light conv]sation ensues until ! m5 jo9 !m4 ,! latt]1 9 ! mean:ile1 rema9 9 ! d9+-room to smoke _! cig>s & dr9k _! c(fee4 ,usually !y w leave _! orig9al seats & move up to ! end ( ! table1 ga!r+ ar\nd ! ho/1 ^: duty x n[ is to ent]ta9 !m & to keep pleasant conv]sation go+4 ,fifte5 m9utes is an ample "t = ! g5tlem5 to smoke & *at by !mselves4 ,!n !y are expect$ to jo9 ! ladies 9 ! draw+-room4 ,,special ,,ent]ta9m5t ,"s ho/esses l to provide special ent]ta9m5t = _! gue/s--pr(essional danc]s1 elocutioni/s1 or s+]s4 ,b "h circum/ances mu/ alt] cases4 ,z a matt] ( fact1 n v mu* ent]ta9m5t is really requir$1 = if ! gue/s are cong5ial1 !y w no d\bt enjoy conv]sation among !mselves4 ,x is1 ( c\rse1 n necess>y to limit "o's conv]sation to ! lady or g5tleman ) :om "o's lot has be5 ca/ = ! ev5+4 ,h[ev]1 special att5tion %\ld be paid to t p]son4 ,,:5 ,,to ,,leave ,x is only an extremely rude & disc\rte\s gue/ :o w leave imm$iately ^u ! conclusion ( ! d9n]4 ,! correct ?+ to d1 :5 invit$ to a d9n] t beg9s at eight o'clock is to ord] "o's c> to appe> at ! door at t5-?irty4 ,9 mo/ cases1 h[ev]1 :5 ! gue/s are brilliant & pleasant1 & :5 conv]sation holds "o 9 spite ( ! desire to leave1 x is cu/om>y to rema9 until elev5 o'clock :5 ! p>ty w1 no d\bt1 break up entirely4 ,9 ^! days ( gay fe/ivities & cont9ual hospitalities1 x is n unusual = a popul> gue/ to be invit$ to two receptions 9 "o ev5+4 ,ev5 ?is urg5t responsibility1 h[ev]1 does n w>rant ! gue/'s hurry+ away :ile ! d9n] is /ill s]v+--?\gh x may be ! la/ /ages4 ,! c\rte\s way is to wait until all ! gue/s h adj\rn$ to ! draw+-room1 rema9 fifte5 or tw5ty m9utes conv]s+ ) "o's p>tn] or o!r gue/s1 & !n ) a fitt+ apology & brief explanation1 ord] "o's c>4 ,if ?is is foll[$1 ! ho/ess _c feel any dissatisfaction or res5tm5t2 b ! gue/ :o insi/s on ru%+ away1 %[s ill-bre$+ & inconsid]ation4 ,,tak+ ,,leave ,! lady1 :e!r %e be wife1 si/] or fiancee1 is ! fir/ to express a desire to dep>t4 ,:5 %e does1 %e & ! g5tleman w seek out ! ho/ & ho/ess1 ?ank !m cordially = _! hospitality1 & take _! leave4 ,"h are "s accept$ =ms t may be us$ ) v>iations accord+ to ! gue/'s own p]sonality3 ,good-night1 ,mrs4 ,c>r4 ,i mu/ ?ank y = a p]fectly delightful ev5+4 ,to :i* ! ho/ess w no d\bt answ] some?+ to ?is effect3 ,we 7 glad to h y1 ,i'm sure1 ,mrs4 ,rob]ts4 ,"h is ano!r mann] 9 :i* to ext5d "o's ?anks1 & h[ to accept !m3 ,sorry we mu/ />t s soon1 ,mrs4 ,c>r4 ,?ank y s mu* = y\r k9dness4 ,good-night1 ,mrs4 ,rob]ts4 ,i hope to see y soon aga94 ,x is also v important to bid "o's p>tn] = ! ev5+ a cordial good-night4 ,9 fact1 x is a flagrant brea* to leave )\t hav+ ?ank$ "o's p>tn]--& a g5tleman w nev] d x4 ,a ^w or two is all t is necess>y4 ,! ho/ess1 9 tak+ leave ( h] gue/s1 w gratefully ackn[l$ge _! ?anks & say a ^w or two express+ h] pleasure at _! pres5ce4 ,x is n civil or c\rte\s on ! "p ( ei!r ho/ or ho/ess to attempt to prolong ! pres5ce ( any gue/ aft] he has made x kn[n t he wi%es to dep>t4 ,,invit+ ,a ,,/op-,,gap ,if ! ho/ess f9ds1 almo/ at ! la/ mom5t1 t "o ( h] gue/s is unavoidably deta9$ & w n be able to att5d ! d9n]1 %e may call ^u a fri5d to take ! vacant place4 ,! fri5d ?us invit$ %\ld n feel t he or %e is play+ second-fiddle & ! fact t %e 0 n invit$ at fir/ %\ld n tempt h] to refuse ! invitation :i* w\ld be a s]i\s disc\rtesy1 inde$4 ,q on ! contr>y1 %e %\ld accept cordially1 & !n d h] utmo/ to make h] 7or 81 z ! case may be7 pres5ce at ! d9n] amiable & pleasant4 ,! invitation is usually 9 ! =m ( a h&-writt5 note1 expla9+ ! reason = its la/-m9ute arrival1 & frankly reque/+ ! pres5ce ( ! lady or g5tleman 9 ! place ( ! "o :o _c appe>4 ,! answ] %\ld be brief b s9c]e2 !re mu/ be no h9t 9 x t ! recipi5t is n altoge!r pleas$ ) ! invitation & ) ! idea ( d9+ 9 someone's else place4 ,to refuse an invitation to s]ve z a /op-gap1 )\t an acceptable reason = do+ s is an inexcusable violation ( ! rules ( good bre$+4 ,( c\rse1 x is n always agreeable to ! ho/ess to call on "o ( h] fri5ds to att5d h] d9n] 9 ! place ( someone else2 b x is c]ta9ly a bett] plan ?an to leave ! gue/ out entirely1 & h "o m lady ?an g5tleman1 or vice v]sa4 ,if ! note is cordial & frankly s9c]e1 a good fri5d w n feel any unreasonable res5tm5t1 b w1 9 fact1 be pleas$ to s]ve4 ,,simple ,,d9n]s ,! simple d9n]1 p]fectly a*iev$1 is z admirable a feat z ! elaborate d9n]1 p]fectly a*iev$4 ,! ho/ess :o has atta9$ ! art ( giv+ p]fect d9n]s1 ?\gh !y are small1 may well be pr\d ( h] atta9m5t4 ,if ! cook kn[s h[ to cook2 if ! maid is well-tra9$1 & correctly attir$ 9 :ite cap & apron & black dress2 if ! table is laid accord+ to ! rules ( d9n] etiquette2 if ! welcome is cordial & ! company cong5ial--! simple d9n] may rank ) ! mo/ extravagant & elaborate =mal d9n]4 ,! cov] may conta9 few] pieces & ! m5u may conta9 few] c\rses1 ! sett+ may be less fa%ionable1 ?\gh n less h>moni\s1 & /ill ! d9n] may be extremely tempt+ & enjoyable4 ,,invit+ ,,cong5ial ,,gue/s ,p]haps x is m important to select ! gue/s wisely at a small in=mal d9n] ?an x is at a =mal "o4 ,z !re are usually only f\r or six gue/s1 !y w und\bt$ly become well acqua9t$ by ! "t ! d9n] is ov]1 & 9 ord] to h agreeable conv]sation x is necess>y t !y be cong5ial4 ,9 a week or two1 "o g5]ally =gets j :at food 0 eat5 at a c]ta9 d9n]--b if ! gue/s 7 all amiable & pleas+1 ! memory ( conv]sation ) !m w l+] & be con/antly associat$ ) ! ho/ess & h] home4 ,_m a ho/ess w\ld be happi] 7& h] gue/s1 too7 if less "t 7 paid to ! plann+ ( a m5u1 & m "t sp5t 9 *oos+ gue/s :o w be happy toge!r4 ,,:5 ,,!re ,,are ,,no ,,s]vants ,!re is no reason :y lack ( s]vants %\ld prev5t "o f ent]ta9+ fri5ds & ext5d+ "o's hospitality4 ,! ideal ho/ess is n ! "o :o tries to outdo h] neighbor--:o attempts1 ev5 ?\gh x is beyond h] means1 to give elaborate d9n]s t vie favorably ) ^? giv5 by h] neighbors4 ,! simple/ d9n] has possibilities ( be+ a huge success1 if x is giv5 9 ! _s ( true cordiality4 ,= in/ance1 a d9n] :i* ! writ] att5d$ rec5tly 0 giv5 by a "y woman :o did n h any s]vants4 ,!re 7 six gue/s :o all _h mutual int]e/s & ) v little help f ! ho/ess !y 7 n long 9 f9d+ !m4 ,! table 0 laid = eight4 ,a silv] b[l conta9+ delicate f]ns grac$ ! c5t]4 ,! lights 7 %ad$ to a s(t radiance4 ,! entire d9+-room _h an atmosph]e ( quiet & re/fulness ab\t x4 ,ea* gue/ f\nd1 ^u tak+ 8 place = d9n]1 a tall fruit glass at 8 cov]1 conta9+ cru%$ grapefruit & *]ries4 ,:5 ?is fir/ c\rse 0 f9i%$1 ! ho/ess plac$ ! glasses on a s]v+ table & :eel$ x into ! kit*54 ,! kit*5 adjo9$ ! d9+-room1 :i* ( c\rse facilitat$ matt]s consid]ably4 ,& yet x 0 suffici5tly sep>at$ to exclude all unpleasant signs ( cook+4 ,!re 0 no confusion1 no ha/e1 no awkw>d pauses4 ,someh[1 ! gue/s seem$ to =get t maids or butl]s 7 necess>y at all4 ,! quiet1 calm poise ( ! ho/ess dom9at$ ! entire p>ty & ev]yone felt cont5t$ & at ease4 ,!re 0 a complete abs5ce ( re/ra9t ( any k9d2 conv]sation fl[$ smoo?ly & naturally1 & 9 ! enjoym5t ( "o ano!r's company1 ! gue/s 7 z happy & satisfi$ z !y w\ld probably h be5 at an elaborate =mal d9n]4 ,a table s]vice wagon is mo/ useful = ! woman :o is h] own maid4 ,x /&s at ! "r ( ! ho/ess & may be :eel$ 9 & out z %e f9ds x necess>y1 ?\gh = ! in=mal d9n] x %\ld n be ess5tial to move x once x is 9 place4 ,9 ! draw] %\ld be f\nd "o or two extra napk9s & extra silv] = ea* c\rse 9 case ( accid5t or em]g5cy4 ,! c(fee s]vice may be plac$ on top ( ! table ) ! di%es = ! sev]al c\rses arrang$ on ! %elves ( ! table f top to bottom 9 ! ord] 9 :i* !y are to be us$4 ,! table %\ld n be too heavily load$4 ,x is mu* m useful :5 ?+s are easy to get at4 ,if y\r home is small & inconv5i5t1 if y become easily flu/]$1 if y don't f9d int5se pleasure 9 mak+ o!rs happy1 !n don't invite fri5ds to d9n]--& discom=t4 ,b if y are ! jolly1 calm1 happy sort ( a ho/ess1 :o c att5d to duties quickly & yet )\t confusion1 if y h a cozy little home & ta/e en\gh to make x attractive--!n give d9n]s by all means1--& y\r gue/s w n object to _! simplicity4 ,,hotel ,,d9n]s ,) ! s]vant problem gr[+ m complex e ye>1 m & m ho/esses are turn+ to hotels to provide _! special d9n]s4 ,^! _c rival a successful d9n] at home b (t5 !y are mu* easi] to arrange & ev5 ! mo/ cons]vative ( ho/esses may ent]ta9 d9n] gue/s at a hotel4 ,private d9+-rooms are a luxury b mu* m *>m+ ?an ! public room4 ,! latt] is1 ( c\rse1 ! "o us$ by ! l>ge majority ( p4 ,mo/ hotels provide com=table lobbies or l\nges 9 :i* gue/s may wait = ea* o!r4 ,b if ! hotel is a big "o & cr[d$ x is pleasant] to meet else:]e & arrive toge!r4 ,! etiquette ( ! hotel d9+-room is t ( ! home d9+-room4 ,no?+ %\ld ev] be done to draw att5tion to ! gr\p ( p :o are d9+ !re4 ,quiet behavior is m ?an ev] valuable4 ,,dress ,,= ,,d9n] ,= an in=mal d9n] a woman may we> a semi-ev5+ dress ( ! sort suitable = aft]noon :ile h] p>tn] we>s ! regul> d9n] jacket4 ,= a =mal affair =mal decollete dress ) ! hair arrang$ some:at m elaborately ?an usual is requir$4 ,jewels may be worn4 ,gloves are always remov$1 nev] at a d9n] %\ld !y be tuck$ 9 at ! wri/s4 ,m51 ( c\rse1 we> full ev5+ dress to a =mal d9n]4 ,9 hotels & o!r public d9+-rooms !re is m fre$om ( *oice z to :at "o %all we> b x is 9 bad ta/e to attire oneself conspicu\sly4 ,a woman d9+ alone %\ld always we> h] hat into ! d9+-room ev5 if %e is a gue/ ( ! hotel4 ,x is amaz+ h[ mu* ! little niceties ( life h to d ) mak+ a d9n] pleasant1 & 9 e home ! family %\ld dress = d9n] ev5 ?\gh ?is may n mean donn+ regulation ev5+ dress4 ,=mal or in=mal1 9 ! intimacy ( ! family circle or 9 a l>ge gr\p ( fri5ds ! meal %\ld be unhurri$ & calm4 ,,*apt] ,,iii ,,lun*eons ,,purpose ,,( ,,! ,,lun*eon ,9 ,engl&1 & especially 9 ,london1 ! lun*eon is held 9 q z high e/eem z our mo/ =mal d9n]s4 ,= x is at ! lun*eon1 9 ,engl&1 t di/+ui%$ m5 & wom5 meet to discuss ! important topics ( ! mom5t & ex*ange op9ions4 ,x is inde$ easy to und]/& :y ?is w\ld be a delightful meal1 = !re is none ( ! re/ra9t & =mality ( ! late d9n]4 ,b 9 ,am]ica1 p]haps because mo/ all ( our g5tlem5 are at bus9ess d[n-t[n dur+ ! day1 p]haps because we disda9 to ape ,engl&'s cu/oms1 ! lun*eon has n yet rea*$ ! po9t :]e x rivals ! =mal d9n]4 ,& yet x holds r an important place all its own4 ,! place is di/9ctly fem99e4 ,! ladies ( ,am]ica h tak5 ! lun*eon 9 h& & develop$ x into a spl5did midday ent]ta9m5t & means ( hospitality4 ,! g5tlem5 are ( c\rse welcome2 b !y are r>ely pres5t4 ,x is usually among !mselves t ! ladies celebrate ! c]emony ( ! lun*eon--bo? =mal & in=mal--& t x has surviv$1 & is t5d+ to become p]man5tly popul>1 is suffici5t pro( ( its success4 ,x is (t5 prec$$ or foll[$ by c>ds or o!r simple ent]ta9m5t4 ,,in=mal ,,lun*eons ,invitations may be s5t only a few days be=e ! day set = ! lun*eon1 & are usually writt5 9 ! fir/ p]son in/ead ( ! ?ird :i* is ! conv5tion = m elaborate functions4 ,! h\r ( lun*eon is /at$1 b ne$ n be z rigidly foll[$ z ! d9n] h\r4 ,if gue/s are reasonably late !y may be excus$1 b ! late d9n] gue/ is correctly consid]$ disc\rte\s4 ,"l ,h\ghton1 fam\s 9 ,engl&'s social hi/ory1 us$ to ^w 8 invitations simply ,come & lun* ) me to-morr[ or ,w y lun* ) me ,tuesday8 ,he r>ely m5tion$ ! h\r4 ,incid5tally1 ,"l ,h\ghton's unc]emoni\s lun*eons e>n$ = him widespread comm5t1 & !y _h mu* to d ) ! ultimate popul>ity ( ! in=mal lun*eon 9 ,engl&4 ,! in=mal lun*eon lo/ none ( its easy cong5iality 9 travel+ across ! ocean4 ,!re is a c]ta9 fri5dl9ess t di/+ui%es ?is meal f all o!rs4 ,sometimes1 9 fact1 ! ho/ess disp5ses ) ! c]emony ( s]vice altoge!r1 & h] gue/s help !mselves f ! buffet or side-table4 ,if su* is ! case1 ! lun*eon consi/s ( cold meats1 ham1 tongue1 roa/ beef1 etc42 salads1 w9e jellies1 fruits1 cakes1 bonbons & c(fee4 ,! mo/ usual way1 h[ev]1 is to s]ve a m sub/antial lun*eon1 reta9+ j t degree ( d9n] =mality t is s gratify+ to ! social s5se4 ,,ab\t ,,! ,,table ,(t5 ! in=mal lun*eon is s]v$ on ! b>e table1 mak+ use ( num]\s lace or l95 doilies in/ead ( ! usual table-clo?4 7,?is does n hold true ( ! =mal lun*eon & may n be true ev5 ( ! in=mal "o47 ,! m5u mu/ be appropriate to ! season4 ,tea or c(fee are nev] s]v$ 9 ! draw+-room aft] ! in=mal lun*eon4 ,if at all1 !y are s]v$ "r at ! table at ! conclusion ( ! meal4 ,! in=mal lun*eon gue/ nev] rema9s long aft] ! lun*eon unless ! ho/ess has provid$ special amusem5t4 ,if ! lun*eon la/s an h\r ! gue/s may sit ar\nd & *at ) ! ho/ess = ab\t a half h\r2 b !y mu/ rememb] t %e may h aft]noon engagem5ts1 & x w\ld be exce$+ly inconsid]ate & rude on _! "p to delay h]4 ,,! ,,=mal ,,lun*eon ,! =mal lun*eon is v mu* l ! =mal d9n]1 except t x is n s sub/antial z to m5u4 ,! table is laid ! same1 except t l95 doilies are us$ 9 pref]5ce to table-clo?s4 ,! latt] are 9 good =m1 h[ev]1 & x is m]ely a matt] ( ta/e 9 ! f9al selection4 ,!n too1 !re is nev] any artificial light at a lun*eon1 :e!r x be simple or elaborate4 ,! =mal lun*eon usually op5s ) a fir/ c\rse ( fruit--grapefruit1 ord9>ily1 b sometimes *ill$ p9eapple or fruit cocktails4 ,:5 ! fruit glasses are remov$1 b\illon 9 two-h&l$ cups is s]v$4 ,sometimes a c\rse ( fi% foll[s1 b x is really n ess5tial to ! lun*eon & mo/ ho/esses pref] to omit x4 ,an entree is next s]v$--*ick51 mu%rooms1 sweetbreads or beef accord+ to ! ta/e & judgm5t ( ! ho/ess2 & usually a vegetable accompanies x4 ,a light salad1 prep>$ ) a reg>d = h>mony ) ! re/ ( ! m5u1 is always acceptable at ! lun*eon4 ,dess]ts may be ! same z ^? s]v$ = d9n]1--jellies1 froz5 pudd+s1 ice-cream1 t>ts1 nuts1 etc4 ,x is n cu/om>y to retire to ! draw+-room = c(fee2 x is good =m to h x s]v$ at ! table4 ,if ! wea!r is tempt+1 & if ! ho/ess is s incl9$1 c(fee may be s]v$ on ! por*4 ,h[ev]1 ^! less] details mu/ be decid$ by p]sonal ta/e & conv5i5ce4 ,x may be tak5 = grant$ t ! ho/ess w\ld n give a =mal lun*eon if %e _h aft]noon engagem5ts4 ,= t reason1 ! gue/s may /ay lat] ?an !y w\ld at an in=mal lun*eon4 ,sometimes music is provid$1 & (t5 !re are recitations & dramatic read+s4 ,usually ! h\r set = a c]emoni\s lun*eon is "o-?irty o'clock2 x is safe to say1 !n1 t ?ree o'clock or half-pa/ ?ree is ample "t to take "o's dep>ture4 ,,! ,,table ,,= ,,! ,,=mal ,,lun*eon ,! appo9tm5ts ( ! =mal lun*eon table are1 z 0 po9t$ out above1 almo/ id5tical ) ^? ( ! d9n] table4 ,9 ! fir/ place1 butt] may be s]v$ ) ! =mal lun*eon & r>ely ) d9n]4 ,?us we f9d t9y butt] di%es add$ at ! left ( ea* lun*eon cov]4 ,^! plates are usually decorative1 & sometimes are made l>ge en\gh to conta9 bo? ! bread & butt]1 in/ead ( j ! butt] alone4 ,ano!r diff]5ce1 ?\gh slight3--cut-glass platt]s = nuts & bonbons take ! place ( ! silv] platt]s ( d9n]4 ,c&les are n us$2 nor is any o!r artificial light :5ev] x c be avoid$4 ,! =mal lun*eon (f]s an ideal "t = ! ho/ess to display h] f9e/ *9a1 h] be/ silv]4 ,x is an occasion :5 dignity & beauty comb9e ) easy fri5dl9ess to make ! ev5t memorable1 & ! wise ho/ess sp>es no ef=t 9 add+ ^? little t\*es t g s f> t[>ds mak+ any ent]ta9m5t a success4 ,m5u c>ds & favors1 ( c\rse1 are t\*es t belong to ! d9n] table alone2 b fl[]s1 s]vice & g5]al sett+ ( ! d9+-room are details t des]ve consid]able att5tion & ?\ght4 ,,ho/ess ,,& ,,gue/ ,! prim>y requisite ( a successful lun*eon is h>moni\s & agreeable relation%ip betwe5 ho/ess & gue/s4 ,?is holds true bo? ( ! =mal & in=mal lun*eons1 ?\gh p>ticul>ly ( ! =m]4 ,"o _c possibly enjoy a lun*eon--no matt] h[ c>efully ! m5u has be5 prep>$1 no matt] h[ delightful ! environm5t--if !re are awkw>d lapses 9 ! conv]sation2 if !re are mom5ts ( pa9ful1 emb>rass+ sil5ce2 or if ! conv]sation is /ilt$1 affect$ or =c$4 ,spontaneity ( conv]sation & ease ( mann]1 toge!r ) a ho/ess :o kn[s h[ to plan delightful little surprises1 & simple ?\gh delici\s m5us1--^! are ! secrets ( successful lun*eon-giv+4 ,& if !y _c be obs]v$1 ! ho/ess _h bett] direct h] en]gies t[>d /rictly =mal ent]ta9m5ts2 ! lun*eon is n "o ( h] accompli%m5ts4 ,! ho/ess receives 9 h] draw+-room4 ,%e rises z ea* gue/ ent]s ! room1 greets h]1 or him1 z ! case may be1 ) out/ret*$ h&1 & proce$s ) any necess>y introductions4 ,z soon z all ! gue/s h arriv$1 %e ord]s lun*eon s]v$1 & %e h]self leads ! way to ! d9+-room4 ,! gue/s may seat !mselves 9 ! mann] t is mo/ cong5ial2 b 9 arrang+ ! =mal lun*eon1 ! ho/ess usually id5tifies ! correct seat ) a small place c>d4 ,if !re is a gue/ ( honor1 or a lady :om ! ho/ess wi%es to %[ def]5ce to1 %e is giv5 ! place to ! "r ( ! ho/ess4 ,if !re are g5tlem5 at ! =mal lun*eon1 includ+ ! ho/ess' husb&1 !y d n rema9 at ! table to smoke & *at z !y d aft] d9n]1 b leave ! d9+-room ) ! ladies4 ,nei!r d !y (f] ! ladies _! arms :5 ent]+ or leav+ ! d9+-room4 ,if ! ho/ is consid]ate1 & is =tunate en\gh to h a por*1 %e w sugge/ t ! g5tlem5 h _! cig>s on ! por*4 ,a well-br$ gue/ w nev] take advantage ( ! l5i5cy t[>d late-com]s to ! lun*eon4 ,x is always rude to keep p wait+2 b x is d\bly s to be lax 9 "o's punctuality because "o rule is n z exact+ z ano!r4 ,! gue/ mu/ also be> 9 m9d t a great "p ( ! enjoym5t ( ! lun*eon devolves ^u 8 or h] own cordiality & fri5dl9ess4 ,e gue/ mu/ feel x a duty to supply "s ( ! conv]sation1 & if he is n naturally conv]sant1 x might be wise to decide ^u & rememb] sev]al int]e/+ little anecdotes t ! company w enjoy he>+4 ,no "o c be excus$ f sil5ce or lack ( int]e/ at ! lun*eon4 ,to ! ho/ess1 !n1 goes ! responsibility ( provid+ ! means ( enjoym5t2 to ! gue/s goes ! responsibility ( utiliz+ ?is means1 & coop]at+ ) ! ho/ess 9 mak+ ! entire ?+ a success4 ,!re are huge social possibilities 9 ! lun*eon1 & x is rapidly becom+ "o ( ,am]ica's favorite functions4 ,) bo? ho/ess & gue/ obs]v+ _! duties1 x mu/ inevitably be a triumph t w vie ) ! important dignity ( ! =mal d9n] itself4 ,,=mal ,,& ,,in=mal ,,breakfa/s ,breakfa/ to "s p may mean a ha/ily swall[$ cup ( tea or c(fee1 & a bit ( roll or cake4 ,! e>ly breakfa/1 ( c\rse4 ,b to _m !re is a lat] breakfa/ t is z elaborate z x is tempt+4 ,! =mal breakfa/ may be held any "t betwe5 t5 & twelve-?irty4 ,a fruit c\rse op5s ! m5u1 ) a mild hors d'oeuvre foll[+4 ,s\p is nev] s]v$4 ,aft] ! fruit1 fi%1 broil$ or saute is s]v$1 & sometimes devil$ lob/] if x is pref]r$4 ,9 ,engl&1 /eam$ f9nan haddie is ! favorite breakfa/ fi%4 ,! p]sonal ta/es ( ! gue/s mu/ be tak5 into consid]ation 9 decid+ ^u ! ma9 c\rse4 ,lamb or veal *ops are acceptable1 & egg di%es are always welcom$4 ,!y may be accompani$ by mu%rooms1 small ,fr5* peas or potatoes4 ,= ! next c\rse1 *ick5 meets ) favor especially if x is broil$ or fri$ ) rice4 ,dess]t ( froz5 pun*1 pa/ry or jellies foll[s imm$iately aft] ! *ick52 & c(fee1 9 breakfa/ cups1 concludes ! meal4 ,& ( c\rse1 ! hot muff9s & crisp biscuits ( breakfa/ fame are n =gott5--nor ! waffles & syrup1 ei!r1 if "o is p>tial to !m4 ,= an in=mal breakfa/1 ! m5u is correspond+ly less elaborate4 ,once aga9 x beg9s ) fruit1 & x may be foll[$ by ! good old-fa%ion$ c\rse ( ham or bacon & eggs ) johnny-cake & potatoes2 or ! simple breakfa/ may be />t$ ) c]eal1 s]v$ ) cream1 & foll[$ ) broil$ f9nan haddie & bak$ potatoes4 ,eggs1 quail or *ops1 & a crisp salad is ano!r m5u (t5 adapt$ to ! late in=mal breakfa/4 ,dess]ts %\ld be simple2 sweets are seldom indulg$ 9 at breakfa/4 ,buns ) m>malade or honey are always acceptable1 & froz5 pudd+s seem to be a j-"r f9i% to a delici\s breakfa/4 ,! in=mal breakfa/ is giv5 at t5 or elev5 o'clock 9 ! morn+4 ,x is nev] v elaborate2 x is1 9 fact1 "o ( ! simple/1 yet mo/ dignifi$ ( in=mal meals4 ,,dress ,,= ,,lun*eons ,,& ,,breakfa/s ,:e!r %e is ho/ess or gue/ ! woman at a breakfa/ or lun*eon %\ld we> an aft]noon g[n ( silk1 crepe-de-*9e1 velvet1 clo? or novelty mat]ial4 ,9 ! summ] pref]5ce may be giv5 org&ies1 georgettes1 etc4 ,! simpl] ! affair ! simpl] ! co/ume %\ld be4 ,m5 may we> ! cutaway coat if ! lun*eon is a =mal "o :ile = simpl] affairs ! sack coat or summ] flannels1 :5 ! season is appropriate1 may be worn4 ,,*apt] ,,iv ,,teas ,,& ,,o!r ,,ent]ta9m5ts ,,evolution ,,( ,,! ,,aft]noon ,,tea ,( c\rse "o _c m5tion ! words aft]noon tea )\t imm$iately associat+ x ) m]ry ,engl&4 ,= x 0 !re t1 ov] two hundr$ ye>s ago1 a dreamy-ey$ ,dut*man 7dreamy-ey$ because he _h liv$ _m ye>s 9 ,*9a7 br\ght ) him f ! ,ori5t a peculi> little leaf :i*1 ) a little hot wat] & sug>1 made a delici\s dr9k4 ,at fir/ lordly ,engli%m5 w\ld h none ( him--b he didn't c>e4 ,he exhibit$ ! p[]s ( ! little leaves1 made 8 tea1 & drank x ) evid5t reli%4 ,o!rs 7 curi\s2 !y1 too1 drank1 & once !y />t$ x 0 difficult to d )\t x4 ,someone spread ! rumor t ?is new dr9k f ,*9a conta9$ drugs & /imulants--& no soon] 0 ?is rumor spread ?an ev]yone began dr9k+ x6 ,ev5 ! ladies & g5tlem5 ( bett] society f9ally condesc5d$ to ta/e ! /uff--& lo6 be=e !y realiz$ x1 x _h be5 unconsci\sly adopt$ z _! v own bev]age6 ,?r\gh two g5]ations ! idea ( ! aft]noon tea has be5 p]fect$1 until to-day we h cosy1 delightful1 c]emoni\s five-o'clock teas t are ! pride ( ! ,engli% & ! joy ( ev]yone :o foll[s ! cu/om4 ,& s we f9d ! aft]noon tea enjoy+ a vogue ( unrival$ popul>ity "h 9 ,am]ica4 ,:5 a debutante daught] is to be introduc$ to society1 ! "m plans an elaborate aft]noon tea 7& !y c c]ta9ly be elaborate674 ,:5 gue/s f out-(-t[n are visit+1 ! ho/ess c ?9k ( no?+ m appropriate ?an a *ummy tea to introduce !m to h] fri5ds4 ,s *>m+ a way ( ent]ta9+ is ! aft]noon tea t x has usurp$ ! ev5+ reception almo/ entirely1 except :5 ! occasion requires special =mality4 ,,! ,,simpl] ,,tea ,!n1 too1 !re is ! simpl] tea s de> to ! he>ts ( our hospitable ladies ( good society4 ,x 0 ,george ,eliot :o e>ne/ly inquir$1 ,read]1 h y ev] drunk a cup ( tea8 ,!re is some?+ und5iably he>t-w>m+ & conv]sation-mak+ 9 a cup ( /eam+ hot tea s]v$ ) delici\s cream2 x is an ideal prescription = bani%+ lonel9ess4 ,p]haps x is n s mu* ! tea itself1 z ! circle ( happy fri5ds eag] = a pleasant *at4 ,z ! simple tea does n require v mu* prep>ation or plann+1 we w discuss x briefly "h & take up only ! =mal tea 9 detail4 ,! simple tea may be s]v$ = any gue/ :o *ances 9 betwe5 f\r or six o'clock 9 ! aft]noon4 ,sometimes a ho/ess devotes a /at$ "t ea* day or on c]ta9 days 9 ! week :i* are kn[n to h] fri5ds1 to tea1 & %e lets h] fri5ds "k j :at ! h\r is & t !y are welcome to jo9 = a bite & a little *at :5ev] !y feel s incl9$4 ,!re may be "o or sev]al little tea tables :i* are br\ght into ! draw+-room :5 ! gue/s are ready = tea4 ,cov]+ ea* "o is a da9ty lace or l95 doily1 or an embroid]$ tea-clo?4 ,if tea tables are n available1 "o l>ge table may s]ve ! purpose1 b x also mu/ be cov]$ ) small doilies at ea* cov] in/ead ( "o l>ge table-clo?4 ,! ho/ess & "o or two ( h] fri5ds may s]ve4 ,! tea is made at ! table & s]v$ ) v small1 da9ty s&wi*es & all k9ds ( qua9tly-%ap$ cakes4 ,bonbons1 salt$ nuts & sometimes ices are also s]v$4 ,if ! ho/ess does n own da9ty tea equipage1 ! bev]age may be made 9 ! kit*5 & br\ght 9 ready to s]ve1 fragrant & /eam+4 ,! cu/om ( ! aft]noon tea is conf9$ almo/ :olly to wom51 ?\gh x is n bad =m by any means to h g5tlem5 pres5t = tea4 ,a tea wagon (f]s ! mo/ attractive s]vice = an aft]noon tea4 ,x %\ld n be 9 ! room :]e ! ho/ess receives b %\ld be :eel$ 9 f an adjo9+ room 7! d9+-room usually74 ,! maid1 if !re is "o1 p]=ms ?is s]vice1 ! ho/ess h]self if !re is no maid4 ,! table %\ld n be ov]cr[d$ & if !re is n ample room = s&wi* trays ^! %\ld be br\ght 9 sep>ately4 ,! *9a %\ld be ?9 & ( ! same g5]al k9d ?\gh n necess>ily ( ! same patt]n4 ,!re %\ld be sug>--pref]ably block sug> ) tongs1 a pit*] ( cream1 slices ( lemon1 m9t leaves & cloves4 ,if ! ho/ess makes ! tea h]self %e adds sug>1 cream1 lemon or :atev] else ! gue/ may desire be=e %e passes ! cup4 ,! ho/ess :o c>es ab\t h] reputation = hospitality w p]fect h]self 9 ! g5tle art ( mak+ delici\s tea be=e ! day comes = h] to prove h]self be=e h] gue/s4 ,,! ,,=mal ,,tea ,:5 ! aft]noon tea becomes =mal & c]emoni\s x takes ! place ( ! cu/om>y at home4 ,invitations mu/ be s5t a week or t5 days 9 advance1 & if "o is unable to att5d1 a polite note ( explanation mu/ be s5t4 ,h[ev]1 no answ] is necess>y if "o int5ds to be pres5t4 ,) ?is m pret5ti\s affair1 ! refre%m5ts are s]v$ 9 ! d9+-room in/ead ( 9 ! draw+-room or outdoors z is sometimes done at simpl] teas4 ,! hiss+ urn always holds ! place ( honor 7except on v w>m days :5 ic$ tea or ic$ c(fee may be s]v$74 ,trays ( ?9ly slic$ bread are on ! table1 & da9ty s&wi*es 9 l>ge v>iety4 ,fruit salads are nev] amiss1 & /rawb]ries ) cream are p>ticul>ly delightful :5 9 season4 ,!n1 ( c\rse1 !re are cakes & bonbons & ices1 al?\gh ! latt] are usually conf9$ to w>m days4 ,at a c]emoni\s tea1 ! ho/ess /&s ne> ! draw+-room door to greet ea* gue/ z %e arrives4 ,if h] daught]s receive ) h]1 !y /& to h] "r1 & help 9 mak+ any necess>y introductions4 ,z _m gue/s z c be conv5i5tly ent]ta9$ may be invit$ to ! =mal tea2 b ! refre%m5ts mu/ nev] be s sub/antial t !y w int]f]e ) d9n]4 ,9 fact1 ! tea mu/ be kept true to its "n1 = if o!r eatables besides ^? fa%ionable to ! tea are s]v$1 x is a reception 9 sub/ance if n 9 "n4 ,:5 "o wi%es to invite eighte5 or tw5ty fri5ds1 & does n wi% to und]take ! tr\ble or exp5se ( a d9n]1 ! high tea is 9 ord]4 ,x is usually held on a ,sunday ev5+4 ,at ^! high teas small tables are inv>iably us$1 f\r gue/s be+ plac$ at ea* table4 ,x is cu/om>y to all[ ! gue/s to =m _! own qu>tettes1 = 9 ?is mann] !y w usually f9d table companions :o w be cong5ial--& a mo/ un=tunate occurr5ce at a high tea1 or 9 fact any reception1 is a seat+ arrangem5t unta/eful to ! gue/s !mselves4 ,! little tables are cov]$ ) sn[y tea clo?s & decorat$ ) a sprig ( fl[]s 9 a color$ vase occupy+ ! position ( honor4 ,,! ,,tea-,,table ,p]haps m important ?an ! tea itself1 is ! appe>ance ( ! tea-table4 ,! well-equipp$ table is adorn$ ) f9e *9a & gleam+ silv]1 & !re are always a few fl[]s to add to ! beauty ( ! sett+4 ,f]ns may be us$ in/ead ( fl[]s1 b !re mu/ be no elaborate ribbons or decorations su* z appe> on ! d9n]-table4 ,z a matt] ( fact1 ! tea-table %\ld always pres5t an appe>ance ( unprem$itat$ simplicity4 ,x mu/ nev] seem z ?\gh x _h be5 especially prep>$ & plann$ = ! occasion4 ,c&les1 dimm$ ) pale %ades1 may be on ! table :5 ! day is gloomy & d>k4 ,9 w9t]1 = in/ance1 :5 ! days are %ort]1 s(tly-gl[+ c&les aid consid]ably 9 ! *e]fulness ( ! aft]noon tea4 ,tea napk9s are us$ in/ead ( ^? ( regul> d9n] size4 ,a pretty mann] ( s]v+ s&wi*es or cakes is to h !m 9 silv]-rimm$ wick] baskets :i* c be pass$ easily f "o gue/ to ano!r4 ,if ! tea is in=mal1 wick] *airs & tables may also be us$4 ,?is is especially pleas+ & appropriate :5 ! tea is s]v$ on ! por* or 9 ! g>d54 ,,dress ,,at ,,tea ,,"t ,tea "t is always ! fa%ionable "t ( ! day & !re is suffici5t v>iety 9 appropriate mat]ials & /yle = a woman to f9d a g[n t is m ?an ord9>ily individual & becom+4 ,= an in=mal tea ! ho/ess may we> a cl++ g[n ( silk b %e %\ld n dress v sumptu\sly = h] gue/s w come simply attir$ & x is h>dly hospitable to be a great deal m elaborately dress$ ?an !y4 ,aft]noon frocks ( silk1 velvet1 clo?1 etc41 or ( summ] mat]ials are suitable = ! gue/4 ,:5 ! wea!r dem&s x %e we>s an attractive wrap4 ,9 select+ dresses = teas1 &1 inde$ = all occasions1 x is well to rememb] t ! m ornam5tation !re is ! less elegance !re w be4 ,! mat]ials %\ld be ri* b n %[y--! be/-dress$ p]son is ! "o :o calls lea/ att5tion to 8 or h] clo!s4 ,"o may we> jewels b n heavy necklaces or glitt]+ broo*es or o!r fla%+ /ones4 ,if ! affair is a =mal "o ! hair may be z elaborately m>cell$ z = ! ev5+4 ,9 ?is case ! g[n %\ld be a ri* creation ( ! k9d suitable only = su* ev5ts4 ,if ! tea is giv5 = a debutante x may be a v fe/ive occasion & decollete g[ns may be worn4 ,d>k colors are r>ely worn & ! debutante h]self %\ld be a fairy dream 9 a lovely creation ( silk1 georgette1 crepe-de-*9e1 or some?+ else equally girli% & appropriate4 ,eld]ly wom5 we> black lace or sat9 ?\gh c]ta9 %ades ( br[n & blue & ne>ly all %ades ( gray are irreproa*ably good ta/e if--& ?is if is an important "o--!y are becom+4 ,,! ,,g>d5 ,,p>ty ,*>m+ inde$ is ! simple ent]ta9m5t ( ! g>d5 p>ty4 ,x is an undebatable fact t in=mal ent]ta9m5ts are always m enjoyable ?an ^? t are /rictly =mal1 & ! easy h>mony ( ! g>d5 p>ty is c]ta9ly in=mal to an acceptable degree4 ,someone once said ( ! lawn fete 7:i* is m]ely ano!r "n = a g>d5 p>ty7 t a gre5 lawn1 a few trees1 a f9e day & some?+ to eat con/itute a p]fect g>d5 p>ty4 ,to ?is we add1 t ! gue/s mu/ be c>efully select$ & ! gr\nds mu/ be attractive4 ,! g>d5 p>ty mu/ be held 9 ! op5 air2 refre%m5ts are s]v$ outside & ! gue/s rema9 outside until !y are ready to dep>t4 ,at ,newport1 :]e g>d5 p>ties are q ! vogue1 ! invitations are s5t weeks 9 advance1 &1 if ! wea!r is bad1 ! p>ty is held indoors4 ,b ord9>ily x mu/ be held entirely on ! gr\nds4 ,a l>ge por* is a great advantage1 = if !re is a sudd5 d[np\r ( ra91 ! gue/s may repair to its %elt]4 ,!re are _m opportunities = ! ho/ess to %[ consid]ation & hospitality at ! g>d5 p>ty4 ,easy *airs arrang$ 9 gr\ps or c\ples "u spread+ trees always make = com=t4 ,"s ho/esses h a t5t provid$ on ! lawn = ! purpose ( s]v+ ! refre%m5ts--a cu/om :i* e>ns ! approbation ( fa/idi\s gue/s :o se>* ! food = imag9>y specks ( du/ :5 x is s]v$ 9 ! op54 ,,receiv+ ,,! ,,gue/s ,invitations to g>d5 p>ties may be s5t t5 days to two weeks 9 advance1 & a prompt reply ( acceptance or regret is expect$4 ,! ho/ess receives on ! lawn--nev] 9 ! h\se4 ,! gue/s1 h[ev]1 drive up to ! door ( ! h\se1 are direct$ up/airs to deposit _! wraps 7if !y wi% !y may keep !m ) !m71 & !n are %[n to ! "p ( ! gr\nds :]e ! ho/ess is receiv+4 ,a s]vant %\ld be 9 att5dance to see t ea* gue/ is prop]ly direct$1 unless ! gr\nds :]e ! ho/ess is receiv+ are visible f ! h\se4 ,aft] be+ greet$ by ! ho/ess1 gue/s may w&] ab\t ! gr\nds1 /opp+ to *at ) diff]5t gr\ps1 & seek+ ! refre%m5t table :5 !y are we>y4 ,! ho/ess mu/ be sure t h] lawns are faultlessly m[$1 & t ! t5nis c\rts are 9 ord]4 ,lawn-t5nis has _h a l>ge %>e 9 ! mak+ ( ! g>d5 p>ty's popul>ity1 & ! wise ho/ess w always be sure t h] c\rts are 9 read9ess = ^? :o enjoy ! game4 ,cold refre%m5ts are usually s]v$ at ! g>d5 p>ty4 ,salads1 ham & tongue s&wi*es1 fruits1 jellies1 ices1 cakes1 c&ies & pun* are 9 ord]4 ,p>ticul> c>e mu/ be tak5 9 s]v+ ! refre%m5ts to avoid any accid5ts or muss9ess4 ,!re is no?+ m di/urb+ to bo? ho/ess & gue/ ?an to h a glass ( pun* or a di% ( /rawb]ries ov]turn$ on a lawn1 & pa9s %\ld be tak5 to avoid accid5ts ( ?is k9d4 ,,on ,,! ,,lawn ,music is a pleas+ feature at ! g>d5 p>ty4 ,a pretty cu/om1 n[ enjoy+ vogue among ! mo/ fa%ionable1 is to h ! or*e/ra hidd5 by a clump ( trees or %rubb]y1 b ne> en\gh to be he>d di/9ctly4 ,9 ! outdoors music is nev] too l\d to int]f]e ) conv]sation1 & x is always a s\rce ( ke5 enjoym5t to ! gue/s4 ,also1 x adds a solemn *>m to ! natural beauties ( ! occasion4 ,9 plann+ a g>d5 p>ty1 x is be/ to hire all ! glass1 silv] & *9a f ! cat]]1 z !re is always consid]able breakage no matt] h[ c>eful ! s]vants may be4 ,if ! ho/ess does use h] own *9a & glassw>e1 %e mu/ nev] use h] be/ unless %e is will+ to take ! risk ( hav+ x brok54 ,und\bt$ly1 ! g>d5 p>ty is tr\blesome1 b x (f]s possibilities ( trem5d\s enjoym5t & amusem5t1 & :5 prop]ly arrang$ is always a success4 ,! correct "t = a g>d5 p>ty is betwe5 ?ree & six 9 ! aft]noon4 ,sometimes x la/s until sev5 if ! day is long & ! gue/s are cong5ial4 ,x r>ely la/s into ! ev5+1 h[ev]1 unless x is 9 celebration ( "s special ev5t4 ,sometimes ev5+ lawn receptions are held1 & !y are rem>kably pretty4 ,an appropriate "t to hold an ev5+ g>d5 p>ty is 9 celebration ( a summ] w$d+ anniv]s>y4 ,! gr\nds are brilliantly light$ ) _m-hu$ ,japanese lant]ns or t9y color$ electric lights tw9+ 9 & out among ! trees4 ,b5*es & *airs are set 9 gr\ps or pairs und]nea? ! trees4 ,music is usually on ! por* in/ead ( on ! gr\nds4 ,! h\se is op51 & ! y\ng] gue/s may dance if !y wi%4 ,supp] is s]v$ ei!r outdoors or indoors z conv5i5t4 ,altoge!r ! g>d5 p>ty1 :e!r held 9 ! aft]noon or ev5+1 is a picturesque1 *>m+ & delightful affair & des]ves ! wide popul>ity x is enjoy+ bo? 9 ,am]ica & ,engl&4 ,,dress ,,= ,,g>d5 ,,p>ties ,,& ,,lawn ,,fe/ivals ,summ] frocks1 9 _! airy flims9ess & gay colors are ideally fitt$ = ! colorful backgr\nd ( a g>d5 or lawn p>ty4 ,& ! lady's escort1 9 8 :ite tr\s]s & d>k sack coat adds /ill fur!r a note ( fe/ivity4 ,= ! g>d5 p>ty1 ! woman we>s h] prettie/ light-color$ frock & fl[]-trimm$ hat4 ,gay p>asols may be c>ri$ if !y mat*1 or h>monize )1 ! re/ ( ! co/ume4 ,light %oes are m attractive ?an d>k ones ) light frocks4 ,a g>d5 p>ty might be comp>$ ) a drama1 ! co/umes ( ! gue/s decid+ :e!r or n x w\ld be t]m$ pure romance or light com$y4 ,"h1 amid/ summ] fl[]s1 woman's natural beauty is height5$1 & ! wrong color s*emes 9 dress1 ! wrong co/umes = ! sett+1 j> z badly z a /reak ( black pa9t across ! hazy canvas ( a l&scape pa9t+ by an impressioni/4 ,,woman',s ,,g>d5 ,,co/ume ,org&ie seems to be ! mat]ial be/ suit$ = ! g>d5-p>ty frock4 ,= ! y\ng] p]son !re c\ld be no pretti] frock = g>d5 or lawn p>ty1 or inde$ = any outdoor aft]noon occasion4 ,= ! old] woman1 a dress ( dott$ ,swiss1 pi]ette crepe1 or ,fr5* lawn is becom+4 ,! color %\ld be light & attractive1 b ! /yle may be z simple z "o pleases4 ,lilac is a pretty color = ! old] woman1 & sunset yell[ is becom+ bo? to age & y\? alike1 :5 x is appropriately comb9$ ) "s m somb] %ade4 ,!re are sev]al color comb9ations t are v beautiful 9 lawn & g>d5 sett+s4 ,we w m5tion !m "h1 z !y might be valuable 9 select+ frocks = su* occasions z m5tion$4 ,violet & orange1 bo? pale & n vivid1 (f] a delicate h>mony ( color t is no?+ %ort ( exquisite4 ,old rose & ,nile gre5 are equally effective4 ,or*id1 = ! p]son ^: complexion c be> x1 may be comb9$ ) su* vivid colors z r$1 gre5 & blue1 pres5t+ a contra/ s /rong & cle> & beautiful t x rem9ds "o ( a glori\s sunset4 ,black sat91 = ! eld]ly p]son1 is q fe/ive en\gh = ! g>d5 p>ty :5 x is comb9$ ) a pretty %ade ( h5na or old blue or "s o!r bit ( color4 ,/yles may be simple1 b colors mu/ always be gay & ri* z ! colors f ,nature's own palette4 ,& ! hat t is broad-brimm$ & mass$ ) bright fl[]s1 is a fitt+ complem5t = su* a co/ume4 ,,! ,,man ,,at ,,! ,,g>d5 ,,p>ty ,( c\rse ! decorative art ( dress has = a long "t be5 entru/$ :olly into ! h&s ( woman1 b man may be j z attractive on fe/ive occasions1 if he foll[s ! rules ( correct dress4 ,= him !re is less color to be consid]$1 b j z mu* effect4 ,! y\ng] man is well-dress$ = ! g>d5 p>ty :5 he we>s a suit ( :ite flannel or s]ge ) color$ or :ite l951 a bright tie1 /raw or panama hat1 & ox=ds ( :ite or black1 or a comb9ation ( :ite & black4 ,loose jackets ( black & :ite /rip$ flannel may also be worn ) :ite duck tr\s]s1 if "o is "y4 ,!n !re are ! attractive light suits ( gray twillett t are s effective :5 worn ) a :ite wai/coat & bright tie4 ,= ! old] man1 a jacket ( black & :ite homespun is extremely appropriate4 ,x is sm>t :5 worn ) a wai/coat ( :ite flannel1 :ite %irt & coll> & gayly figur$ tie ( silk f\l>d4 ,tr\s]s ( :ite flannel w\ld complete ?is excell5t co/ume = ! eld]ly man1 & ) a panama hat t boa/s a black b&1 & black-&-:ite ox=ds he is ready = ! mo/ exclusive g>d5 or lawn p>ty4 ,,h\se ,,p>ties ,no "o %\ld attempt a h\se p>ty ^: home is n com=tably l>ge en\gh & :o is n able to provide e conv5i5ce = ! gue/s4 ,"o ne$ n necess>ily be a millionaire to hold a successful h\se p>ty1 b x is c]ta9ly necess>y to h a spaci\s home & suffici5t means to make ?+s pleasant = ! gue/s e m9ute ( ! "t t !y are 9 ! h\se4 ,:ile ! success ( a h\se p>ty re/s directly on ! ho/ & ho/ess1 x also dep5ds l>gely ^u ! gue/s !mselves4 ,!y are expect$ to contribute to ! ent]ta9m5t4 ,!y may be good conv]sationali/s1 or witty humori/s1 or clev] 9 arrang+ surprises4 ,a man or woman :o is jolly1 eag] to please is always invit$ to h\se p>ties & welcom$ by bo? ho/ess & gue/s ) equal pleasure & cordiality4 ,,s5d+ ,,! ,,invitation ,! invitations to h\se p>ties are important4 ,:ile x is complim5t>y = a gue/ to be invit$ to sp5d a few days ) me next week he or %e w und\bt$ly be ill at ease dur+ ! visit & fe>ful ( encroa*+ ^u ! hospitality ( ! ho/ess4 ,x is always m consid]ate & bett] =m to /ate ! def9ite duration ( ! visit1 = in/ance1 m5tion+ t a tra9 leaves ! gue/'s t[n at elev5-?irty on a c]ta9 day1 & t ano!r tra9 leaves = t same gue/'s t[n1 at a c]ta9 h\r on ! day he is to leave4 ,?is gives ! gue/ cle>ly1 & )\t disc\rtesy1 ! precise "t he is expect$ to rema9 at ! home ( ! ho/ess1 & he may rema9 ! full "t )\t any vague premonitions ( undesir$ pres5ce4 ,if ! ho/ess did n /ate ! "t ( arrival & dep>ture ! gue/ %\ld 9 h] acceptance give sugge/ive dates leav+ !m subject to *ange at ! discretion ( ! ho/ess4 ,any o!r plan is emb>rass+ to bo? ho/ess & gue/ s9ce nei!r c make plans = ! future until %e f9ds out :at ! o!r int5ds to d4 ,! usual duration ( h\se p>ty visits are ?ree days--(t5 !y la/ = a week end--al?\gh "s cont9ue a week or ev5 long]4 ,! lady ( ! h\se usually writes a note 9 ! "n ( h] husb& & h]self bo?1 invit+ ,mr4 & ,mrs4 ,blank to h] h\se = ?ree days or ?ree mon?s z %e 7! ho/ess7 pleases4 ,a cle> explanation z to h[ to rea* ! h\se is giv51 & also ! necess>y in=mation reg>d+ tra9s & s*$ules4 ,^! invitations mu/ be answ]$ promptly & if = any reason ! invit$ "o _c att5d1 ! reason %\ld be giv54 ,if !re is any d\bt z to h[ to get to ! h\se ( ! ho/ess2 que/ions may be ask$ 9 ! answ] to ! invitation1 & ! ho/ess mu/ answ] !m at once4 ,,:5 ,,! ,,gue/s ,,arrive ,if ! ho/ess _c be pres5t to receive h] gue/s1 ! duty devolves ^u ! daught] ( ! h\se or an intimate fri5d4 ,z soon z a gue/ arrives he is %[n to 8 room = aft] ! long railroad trip "o is usually du/y1 tir$ & n 9 ! mood = conv]sation or pleasantries4 ,a ba?1 a nap1 & a cup ( c(fee or tea1 or1 if ! wea!r is w>m1 an ic$ dr9k are mo/ welcome4 ,! taxi f>e f ! /ation may be paid by ei!r ho/ess or gue/4 ,! =m] may consid] t ! o!r is h] gue/ f ! mom5t %e arrives & ! latt] may include ?is item 9 h] travel+ exp5ses4 ,g5]ally speak+1 ! ho/ess be>s all ( ! exp5ses ( ! gue/ :ile %e is 9 h] home b special s]vices su* z laundry "w1 press+1 etc41 may be paid = by ! gue/ h]self4 ,x is bad =m to invite num]\s fri5ds & !n to cr[d !m two 9 a room to make a place = all4 ,( c\rse a "m & daught] may be ask$ to %>e ! same room if individual b$s are provid$2 b two wom51 meet+ at ! h\se p>ty = ! fir/ "t1 _c be expect$ graci\sly to accept & enjoy %>+ ! same b$ & room toge!r4 ,! furni%+ ( ! gue/ *amb] may be mode/1 b x mu/ always be neat & com=table4 ,to make ! visit a pleasant "o1 ! room t ! gue/ w occupy dur+ 8 /ay mu/ be "o t invites memory--"o t by its v *e]fulness & com=t rema9s fondly 9 "o's memory4 ,! p]sonal ta/es ( ! gue/s !mselves %\ld be asc]ta9$ 9 assign+ rooms to !m2 "s may l a sunny room1 o!rs may n be able to endure x2 & ! consid]ate ho/ess w s arrange t ea* "o ( h] gue/s is pleas$4 ,!re are num]\s little s]vices t ! ho/ess mu/ make sure are provid$ = h] visit+ gue/s4 ,scissors1 ?read & ne$les %\ld be 9 "o ( ! dress+-table draw]s2 /ation]y1 p5s1 ink1 & a cal5d> %\ld be 9 ! writ+-desk4 ,books1 *os5 especially = ! occupant1 %\ld be scatt]$ ab\t4 ,! ?\ghtful ho/ess w make a r\nd ( ! rooms be=e ! arrival ( ! gue/s & make sure t e detail is att5d$ to4 ,fre% fl[]s %\ld be plac$ 9 ! vases4 ,x is ! duty ( ! gue/ to see t h] room is kept 9 ord]4 ,if !re is no maid %e %\ld att5d to x h]self & 9 any case %e %\ld keep h] own ?+s 9 place & wat* c>efully to see t ! room is at all times exquisitely neat4 ,,ent]ta9+ ,,at ,,! ,,h\se ,,p>ty ,at eight o'clock1 or a little lat] if x is m conv5i5t1 all ! gue/s meet 9 ev5+ dress at d9n]4 ,x is !n t ! necess>y introductions are made & ! gue/ ( honor1 if !re is "o1 is pres5t$4 ,plans may be made = ! next day or two1 ! ho/ess (f]+ sugge/ions & def]r+ to ! wi%es ( h] gue/s :5 !y h attractive plans to submit4 ,! ho/ess also in=ms ! gue/s at :at "t breakfa/ & lun*eon is s]v$4 ,x is n obligatory = e gue/ to be pres5t at lun*eon1 b x is /rictly s at d9n]4 ,! consid]ate ho/ess1 :ile endeavor+ to fill e mom5t ( h] gue/s' /ay ) h]1 ) pleasure & happ9ess1 does n ov]do x to ! ext5t t !y w h no "t = writ+ _! correspond5ce1 read+ a bit1 or tak+ _! cu/om>y nap4 ,un=tunately _m ( our ho/esses :o ent]ta9 lavi%ly at h\se p>ties & sp>e no exp5se or ef=t 9 mak+ ! p>ty a brilliant success1 spoil x all by try+ to cr[d too mu* ent]ta9m5t into ! day1 =gett+ t _! gue/s ne$ a little "t to !mselves4 ,9 plann+ ent]ta9m5ts = ! morn+1 ! ho/ess mu/ rememb] t breakfa/ w be pref]r$ late1 & t ! wom5 gue/s1 especially1 may pref] to =ego breakfa/ entirely & keep to _! rooms until j be=e lun*eon4 ,?us x is always be/ to />t any ent]ta9m5t 9 ! aft]noon4 ,long drives ?r\gh ! c\ntry1 t5nis1 hockey1 golf1 c>d p>ties--all ^! are appropriate = ! aft]noon4 ,! ev5+ is usually devot$ to "s special ent]ta9m5t prep>$ suffici5tly 9 advance to r5d] x an important occurr5ce4 ,a dance aft] d9n]1 a fancy dress ball1 or private !atricals are suitable2 & (t5 long moonlight drives1 end+ ) a jolly little picnic1 are plann$ ) great success4 ,,ho/ess ,,& ,,gue/s ,,at ,,! ,,h\se ,,p>ty ,! fir/ duty ( ! ho/ess is p]sonally to meet or h h] husb& meet ! gue/s z !y arrive at ! railroad /ation4 ,x is bett] =m to h him meet !m :ile %e rema9s at home to receive !m4 ,!re are sev]al important rules t ! gue/ mu/ obs]ve4 ,9 ! fir/ place1 he mu/ n fail to arrive & dep>t at ! exact "t signifi$ 9 ! invitation4 ,if a tra9 is miss$1 ! correct ?+ to d is wire imm$iately s t ! ho/ & ho/ess w n be await+ ! arrival 9 va94 ,ano!r important rule = ! gue/ is rigidly to foll[ & adh]e to ! laws & ! cu/oms ( ! h\se3 ?us if smok+ is n all[$ 9 ! b$rooms1 ! g5tlem5 mu/ be sure to refra9 f s do+ & ea* gue/ %\ld adapt 8 h\rs to ^? ( ! ho/ & ho/ess4 ,"o ( ! mo/ difficult ( gue/s to ent]ta9 is "o :o is peculi> ab\t 8 eat+4 ,x is an awkw>d situation & ! gue/ if he c %\ld eat :at is set be=e him4 ,if ?is is impossible he may speak quietly ) 8 ho/ess1 expla9 ! situation & make special arrangem5ts = food t he c eat4 ,?is is excusable if he is on a diet prescrib$ by a physician b n if he is simply express+ a fa/idi\s pref]5ce4 ,s _m p are veget>ians n[adays t ! ho/ess w make provision = !m & %e %\ld 9 plann+ h] m5us consult ! individual ta/es ( ! gue/s :o are "u h] ro(4 ,p]haps a gue/ is unwisely invit$ to a h\se-p>ty :]e someone he or %e p>ticul>ly dislikes is also a gue/4 ,9 ?is case x is a m>k ( extreme disc\rtesy to compla9 to ! ho/ or ho/ess1 or 9 any way to %[ disrespect or dislike t[>ds ! o!r gue/4 ,to purposely ignore him or h]1 obvi\sly to %[ "o's prejudice1 is v rude4 ,x is mo/ disconc]t+ to ! ho/ = ei!r ( !m to %[ discont5t or to leave ! h\se p>ty because ( ! unwelcome pres5ce ( ! o!r4 ,x is be/ = !m to be =mally c\rte\s to ea* o!r & n 9 any way to int]f]e ) ! enjoym5t ( ! o!r memb]s ( ! h\se p>ty or ( ! ho/ & ho/ess :o are responsible = x4 ,to return to ! ho/ess1 %e has two v important duties--n to neglect h] gue/s1 b to provide !m ) ample amusem5t & ent]ta9m5t1 & aga91 n to we>y !m by too mu* att5tion4 ,%e may g out dur+ ! day if %e pleases1 ei!r to visit fri5ds or to d %opp+1 b %e mu/ always be at home = d9n]4 ,& %e mu/ n g out s (t5 t ! gue/s w beg9 to feel slight$4 ,! good-natur$ & hospitable ho/ & ho/ess w put at ! disposal ( _! gue/s _! entire h\se & gr\nds1 includ+ _! books1 horses1 c>s1 t5nis c\rts & golf l9ks4 ,! duty ( ! gue/ is to avail himself ( ^! privileges ) delicacy1 nei!r abus+ !m nor hesitat+ to use !m at all4 ,!re are "s gue/s :o h a tact ( p]ception1 an ease & poise ( mann]1 a savoir faire & calm1 k9d disposition t makes !m welcome ev]y:]e4 ,!y are nev] petty1 nev] disagreeable1 nev] qu>relsome1 nev] gr\*y4 ,x is a pleasure to include !m 9 ! h\se p>ty--& !y are inv>iably includ$4 ,,tipp+ ,,! ,,s]vants ,! "q ( fee+ or tipp+ ! s]vants has always be5 a puzzl+ "o4 ,x may be ( advantage "h to give an approximate idea ( :at ! fees %\ld be & to :om !y %\ld be giv54 ,att5d+ circum/ances1 ( c\rse1 always gov]n ! exact conditions4 ,v (t5 gue/s1 bo? m5 & wom51 unable to e/imate correctly :at am\nt is befitt+ ! s]vants' s]vices1 tip lavi%ly & )\t any reg>d = s]vices4 ,?is bord]s on ! o/5tati\s1 & h5ce1 may be consid]$ vulg>4 ,"h are ! recogniz$ tips expect$ ( a s+le woman3 = ! maid :o keeps h] room 9 ord]1 "o doll> or a doll> & a half4 7,^! figures are bas$ on a p]iod ( a week's /ay74 ,if ?is maid has also help$ ! gue/ 9 h] dress+1 & prep>+ ! ba? = h]1 two or two & a half doll>s are ! cu/om>y fee4 ,a tip ( f "o to two doll>s mu/ be giv5 to ! maid :o waits on ! gue/ at ! table1 & if a *auffeur takes h] f & to ! /ation1 a doll> is 8 usual fee4 ,a ba*elor is expect$ to be some:at m g5]\s ) 8 tips4 ,! boy :o cleans & poli%es 8 boots & %oes receives a fee ( fifty or sev5ty-five c5ts4 ,:5 a m>ri$ c\ple is visit+1 !y usually divide ! tips betwe5 !m4 ,! wife gives ! maid a doll> or a doll> & a half1 & ! husb& tips ! m5 s]vants4 ,! butl] %\ld receive two doll>s at lea/1 & if he has r5d]$ _m special s]vices bo? to ! man & 8 wife1 he %\ld und\bt$ly receive two or ?ree doll>s m4 ,on "s occasions ! cook is rememb]$1 & ! g5tleman s5ds h] a doll> or two 9 recognition ( h] cul9>y art4 ,x mu/ be rememb]$1 h[ev]1 t !re are no e/abli%$ rules ( tipp+1 & no prec$5t to g by4 ,"o mu/ be guid$ by ! ext5t ( 8 income & by ! s]vices r5d]$4 ,"o m ^w 9 clos+ ?is *apt]4 ,n ev]yone c af=d to give elaborate h\se p>ties4 ,b ?is ne$ n int]f]e ) "o's hospitality4 ,! ho/ or ho/ess :o is disc\rag$ f (f]+ fri5ds simple ent]ta9m5t because ( someone else's magnific5t p>ties1 %\ld cease be+ disc\rag$ & take pride & pleasure 9 ! k t !y are ent]ta9+ _! fri5ds z hospitably z !y c4 ,to d a ?+ simply & s9c]ely is inf9itely f9] ?an to d a ?+ extravagantly m]ely = ! sake ( o/5tation & display4 ,9 homes :]e !re are no s]vants ! gue/s %\ld take "p 9 ! "w ar\nd ! h\se unless ! ho/ess %[s di/9ctly t %e pref]s = !m n to d x4 ,aft] ! visit ! gue/ may s5d "s little gift 9 appreciation ( ! hospitality enjoy$4 ,a bit ( h\sehold l951 a book1 fl[]s1 or c&y are mo/ appropriate4 ,?is is "o case :]e an unsuitable gift is inexcusable = ample opportunity has be5 giv5 ! donor to /udy ! ne$s & desires ( ! ho/ess4 ,)9 t5 days aft] h] dep>ture ! gue/ %\ld write a bread-&-butt] lett] to h] ho/ess4 ,?is is simply a grateful expression ( appreciation = ! hospitality :i* %e enjoy$ dur+ h] visit4 ,great c>e %\ld be tak5 to avoid /ilt$ =ms4 ,,*apt] ,v ,,:5 ,,! ,,ba*elor ,,ent]ta9s ,,:5 ,,! ,,ba*elor ,,is ,,ho/ ,until v rec5tly1 ! ba*elor 0 r>ely a ho/1 0 r>ely expect$ to ent]ta94 ,9 fact1 "s p consid]$ x unconv5tional to att5d a ba*elor ent]ta9m5t4 ,b ) ! trem5d\s increase ( ba*elor ap>tm5ts & ba*elor hotels & ev5 ba*elor clubs1 x is n[ q ! usual cu/om = him to ent]ta9 fri5ds at d9n] p>ties1 !at] p>ties1 teas & 9 almo/ any o!r way :i* /rikes 8 fancy4 ,h[ev]1 no ba*elor %\ld invite gue/s to 8 home unless he has a full ret9ue ( s]vants to c>e = _! wants4 ,!re %\ld be no confusion1 no awkw>dness4 ,if he is a pr(essional man--an arti/1 au?or or musician--he may ent]ta9 gue/s at 8 /udio )\t s]vants1 except p]haps "o to att5d to ! buffet supp] :i* is mo/ usual at su* functions4 ,b t is ! only exception2 a l>ge ent]ta9m5t 9 a ba*elor's e/abli%m5t requires z c>eful prep>ation z a fa%ionable social function 9 a well-regulat$ h\sehold4 ,:5 an unm>ri$ man gives h\se p>ties1 d9n]s or ent]ta9m5ts ( any k9d :atev]1 he always asks a m>ri$ woman ( 8 acqua9tance to act z *ap]on4 ,%e %\ld be ! fir/ p]son invit$1 & ! usual me?od ( invitation is a p]sonal call at h] home4 ,,welcom+ ,,! ,,gue/s ,! ho/ receives 8 gue/s at ! door1 welcom+ ea* "o ) out/ret*$ h&1 & introduc+ imm$iately to ! *ap]on or *ap]ons ^? gue/s :om !y d n already "k4 ,:5 ! reception is a p>ticul>ly l>ge "o1 a man s]vant usually awaits ! gue/s at ! door & ! ho/ receives 9 ! draw+-room4 ,! "q has aris5 on v>i\s occasions1 :e!r or n ! ba*elor is expect$ to provide dress+-rooms = 8 gue/s4 ,if z _m z ?irty or =ty are expect$ ! b$rooms may be made to s]ve ! purpose ( dress+-rooms = ! ev5+4 ,! matt] is "o entirely dep5d5t ^u circum/ances & conv5i5ce :5 ! ent]ta9m5t is held 9 ! home ( ! ba*elor himself2 b :5 a l>ge ent]ta9m5t is giv5 9 a hall1 dress+-rooms are ( c\rse ess5tial4 ,v (t51 :5 ! reception is held 9 ! ba*elor's own ap>tm5ts1 :]e !re is only "o s]vant1 ! *ap]on is ask$ to p\r ! tea :ile ! ho/ himself s]ves x4 ,?is is a v pretty cu/om2 x c]ta9ly l5ds dignity & impressiv5ess to ! ba*elor ent]ta9m5t to see a *>m+ matron at ! head ( ! table4 ,& by hav+ ! ba*elor himself s]ve ! refre%m5ts1 a c]ta9 companion%ip & fri5dl9ess is creat$ among ! gue/s4 ,,! ,,ba*elor',s ,,d9n] ,al?\gh he is n expect$ to retaliate 9 ! matt] ( invitations to d9n]s & lun*eons1 ! ba*elor (t5 gives d9n] p>ties4 ,= ! ho/ is no less eag] to ent]ta9 ?an ! ho/ess1 & _m unm>ri$ m5 f9d ke5 pleasure 9 ga!r+ _! fri5ds ab\t !m = a pleasant ev5+4 ,9 detail1 ! ba*elor's d9n]1 =mal or in=mal1 is v mu* l ! ord9>y d9n]4 ,! same holds true ( ! lun*eon or supp] p>ty4 ,! m5u may be id5tical1 if he pleases2 b (t5 an elaborate ,*9ese1 ,fr5* or ,italian m5u is decid$ ^u z a novelty4 ,if ! gue/s are all g5tlem51 "o butl] may att5d to all _! wants1 includ+ ! s]v+ ( ! c\rses4 ,b if !re are ladies 9 ! p>ty1 ! *ap]on mu/ be pres5t1 & p]haps "o or two :ite-capp$ maids to s]ve ! d9n]4 ,if ! d9n] is giv5 9 honor ( a lady1 h] seat is always at ! "r ( ! ho/ at ! table4 ,if !re is no gue/ ( honor1 ?is place is fill$ by ! matron :o is s]v+ z *ap]on4 ,x is %e :o makes ! fir/ move to leave ! d9+-room4 ,! ho/ mu/ ext5d cordial ?anks to ! *ap]on :5 %e is ready to dep>t4 ,x is usually ^u h] good judgm5t & influ5ce t ! success ( ! d9n] dep5ds1 & surely ! ho/ owes h] a debt ( gratitude if ev]y?+ has run smoo?ly & pleasantly4 ,he also bids 8 gue/s a cordial adieu & graci\sly accepts _! ?anks = a pleasant ev5+4 ,music is (t5 provid$ = ! ent]ta9m5t ( ! gue/s aft] a d9n]-p>ty4 ,x is n unusual = ! ho/ to obta9 ! s]vices ( well-kn[n pr(essional s+]s & play]s = ! ev5+4 ,,tea ,,at ,a ,,ba*elor ,,ap>tm5t ,! ba*elor :o feels t he mu/ be hospitable to 8 fri5ds & ent]ta9 !m at 8 home1 may safely *oose ! aft]noon tea )\t appreh5sion z x is ! simple/ ( ent]ta9m5ts4 ,( c\rse a *ap]on is necess>y1 z %e is at all 8 ent]ta9m5ts2 b !re is less re/ra9t & less =mality at a tea ?an at almo/ any o!r social function4 ,invitations %\ld be issu$ a week or t5 days be=e ! day set = ! tea4 ,gue/s may include bo? sexes2 b if !re are only g5tlem51 !y may be invit$ v]bally4 ,! tea is s]v$ 9 ! d9+-room1 or if he wi%es1 ! ho/ may h small tea tables laid out 9 ! draw+-room4 ,a silv] tea s]vice is always attractive & pleas+1 & ! ho/ may p\r ! bev]age if ! gue/s are all g5tlem54 ,if ladies are pres5t1 ei!r ! *ap]on may p\r1 or a s]vant4 ,refre%m5ts %\ld consi/ ( delicate s&wi*es1 assort$ cakes & waf]s1 salt$ almonds1 confections & tea4 ,if !re are "s among ! gue/s :o d n dr9k tea1 *ocolate may be s]v$4 ,z !y dep>t ! ba*elor ho/ accompanies ea* "o ( 8 gue/s to ! door bidd+ him or h] a cordial good-by4 ,! *ap]on mu/ be especially ?ank$ = h] s]vice & %[n p>ticul> def]5ce4 ,inde$1 h] ho/ %\ld accompany h] aft] ! reception1 to h] own door if %e is )\t c> or escort4 ,,! ,,ba*elor ,,dance ,weal?y ba*elors f9d pleasure & div]sion 9 giv+ huge balls & dances4 ,d9n] or a midnight supp] may be a delightful adjunct to ! dance4 ,a fa%ionable ball ( ?is k9d is sometimes giv5 = ! important purpose ( introduc+ a "y si/] or ano!r relative to society4 ,! ball is r>ely1 if ev]1 held 9 ! ba*elor's own ap>tm5ts4 ,he hires a hall = ! occasion1 & arranges ) sev]al ( 8 m>ri$ fri5ds to act z *ap]ons4 ,!y also receive ) him & help him introduce ! gue/s4 ,z ^! arrive1 !y dive/ !mselves ( _! wraps1 9 ! dress+-rooms provid$ = ! purpose1 & !n are receiv$ 9 ! ballroom by ! ho/ & ! *ap]ons4 ,introductions are made1 & ! music & danc+ beg9s4 ,!re are n v _m ba*elors :o c ent]ta9 9 ?is lavi% fa%ion2 b ! simpl] ent]ta9m5ts1 if !y h ! correct _s ( cordial hospitality1 g a long way 9 e/abli%+ ! desir$ relation%ip betwe5 ! ho/ & 8 fri5ds4 ,aft] all1 x is ! little ?+s t c\nt2 & little c\rtesies may fitt+ly repay elaborate c]emonials & fa%ionable functions1 if !y are (f]$ 9 s9c]e fri5dl9ess & w>m?4 ,,!at] ,,p>ties ,always a favorite ) ! ba*elor1 ! !at] p>ty has rec5tly become 8 ma9 =te4 ,fir/ 9 importance1 ( c\rse1 is ! selection ( a play1 a matt] :i* is l>gely det]m9$ by ! k9ds ( visitors ! ho/ int5ds to invite4 ,!re is no?+ m di/urb+ ?an to invite "o's fri5ds to a play1 & !n to feel t !y h n enjoy$ x4 ,9 select+ some?+ light & amus+1 or else ! p]=mance ( "s celebrat$ />1 ! ho/ is comp>atively sure ( pleas+ mo/ ( 8 gue/s4 ,ano!r important po9t is to br+ toge!r only cong5ial p = ! !at] p>ty4 ,"o p]son out ( h>mony ) ! re/ w spoil ! :ole ev5+ z c]ta9ly z a sudd5 summ] %[] spoils ! mo/ elaborately plann$ g>d5 p>ty4 ,x is important to select only ^? p ^: ta/es & temp]am5ts bl5d4 ,invitations are in=mal4 ,a brief1 cordial note h&-writt5 on p]sonal /ation]y is pref]r$1 al?\gh "s m5 l to use _! club /ation]y4 ,! "n ( ! play may be m5tion$ 9 ! invitation4 ,an imm$iate response is expect$1 z ! ho/ mu/ be giv5 suffici5t "t to *oose ano!r gue/1 if = "s reason1 ! "o invit$ _c att5d4 ,m5 & wom5 may be invit$ to ! !at] p>ty1 & if !re are m>ri$ c\ples 9 ! p>ty1 a *ap]on is n p>ticul>ly necess>y4 ,,ya*t+ ,,p>ties ,:5 a ba*elor invites sev]al m5 & wom5 fri5ds to d9e on 8 ya*t1 or to take a %ort cruise1 x is absolutely bad =m to omit ! *ap]on4 ,%e mu/ be a m>ri$ woman1 & %e may jo9 ! p>ty ) or )\t h] husb&4 ,ano!r important po9t reg>d+ ya*t+ p>ties2 ! ho/ mu/ supply a gig or r[boat to c>ry 8 gue/s to & f ! %ore1 & he mu/ /& on ! gangway to greet ea* "o z he arrives1 & assi/ him to ! deck ( ! ya*t4 ,9 giv+ ent]ta9m5ts1 ! ba*elor mu/ rememb] t no special social obligations are expect$ ( him4 ,he ne$ n be lavi% 9 8 d9n]s & p>ties1 unless he wi%es to & c af=d x4 ,simple ent]ta9m5ts1 giv5 9 ! _s ( good fell[%ip & hospitality1 are always appreciat$ & t5d to sub/antially /r5g!n fri5d%ips4 ,,*apt] ,,vi ,,musicales ,,& ,,private ,,!atricals ,,prep>ations ,,= ,,! ,,musicale ,! only "t t music is n subord9at$ to o!r purposes ( ! ev5+'s ga!r+1 is at ! musicale4 ,"h x is ! sole ent]ta9m5t ( ! ev5+1 & x reigns supreme4 ,9 prep>+ = a musicale1 invitations %\ld be engrav$ & issu$ at lea/ t5 days 9 advance ( ! "t *os5 = ! occasion4 ,9 invit+ h] gue/s1 ! ho/ess mu/ be sure t %e includes only ^? among h] fri5ds & acqua9tances :o und]/& & appreciate good music1 & :o enjoy x = itself alone4 ,x is n wise to include p :o are n fond ( music 7if !re really are any su* p67 = !y are likely to be bor$1 & in/ead ( li/5+ quietly to ! selections1 talk & fidget & s di/urb ! o!r gue/s :o are anxi\s to give _! undivid$ att5tion to ! musicians4 ,! invitations to a musicale require prompt answ]s4 ,! ?ird p]son %\ld be us$ 9 bo? invitations & answ]s1 z ! occasion is /rictly a =mal "o4 ,! draw+-room1 9 :i* ! musicale is ord9>ily held1 %\ld be b>e ( all unnecess>y furniture save ! piano1 *airs = ! p]=m]s1 & seats = ! gue/s4 ,programs may be pr9t$ suffici5tly 9 advance to di/ribute at ! musicale2 !y always s]ve z appropriate mem5tos4 ,,! ,,aft]noon ,,musicale ,! usual "t = ! aft]noon musicale is f f\r to six4 ,x is consid]ably less =mal ?an a simil> affair 9 ! ev5+1 al?\gh /ill requir+ /rictly =mal ?ird-p]son etiquette 9 invitations & replies4 ,x is usual1 9 issu+ invitations = musicales1 :e!r held 9 aft]noon or ev5+1 to h ! ^w ,music engrav$ 9 ! l[] left-h& corn]4 ,if a fam\s musician is to play 8 "n may appe> on ! invitation4 ,! musical selections include v>i\s numb]s to suit ! ta/es ( ! ho/ess1 & ^? ( h] gue/s if %e happ5s to "k :at !y are4 ,sometimes !re are vocal selections 9 addition to ! in/rum5tal selections4 ,all pr(essional s+]s & play]s are paid = _! s]vices1 unless !y !mselves (f] !m free4 ,x is v bad =m inde$1 to invite a s+] or play] z a gue/1 & !n expect him to give 8 s]vices4 ,& yet x is done s (t51 by ho/esses :o ?9k t !y are foll[+ ! dictates ( etiquette to ! highe/ lett] ( its law6 ,if ! p]=m]s are fri5ds ( ! ho/ess %e %\ld pres5t ea* "o ) a gift ( "s sort z an expression ( h] gratitude = _! s]vices4 ,! light] music %\ld always be play$ fir/1 reta9+ ! important numb]s = ! end4 ,_m ho/esses1 :5 !y h a fam\s pr(essional = ! aft]noon's ent]ta9m5t1 />t ! musicale ) s++ or play+ by unimportant p]sons1 & end x ) ! p]=mance ( ! celebrat$ pr(essional4 ,x is always pleas+ to ! gue/s--& also ! pr(essional himself4 ,! ho/ess1 9 receiv+ h] gue/s1 /&s 9 ! draw+-room & greets ea* "o z he or %e arrives4 ,:5 ! music beg9s1 %e seats h]self ne> ! door1 & :5ev] a t>dy gue/ arrives1 sees t he is com=tably seat$4 ,incid5tally1 x is bad =m to come late to a musicale2 x is di/urb+ to ! p]=m]s & gue/s alike4 ,gue/s d n rema9 long aft] ! aft]noon musicale4 ,! *airs are remov$ f ! draw+-room & ices1 pun*1 little cakes & bonbons are s]v$4 ,z ! gue/s leave1 x is cu/om>y = !m to ?ank ! ho/ess = h] ent]ta9m5t4 ,,! ,,ev5+ ,,musicale ,simil> 9 g5]al aspect is ! ev5+ musicale & yet !re are sev]al details t are /rik+ly diff]5t4 ,x may be held any "t 9 ! ev5+4 ,aga9 ! ho/ess receives 9 ! draw+-room1 & aga9 ! selections may be ei!r vocal or in/rum5tal4 ,b ! g5]al appe>ance ( ! entire affair is m c]emoni\s1 m =mal4 ,& aft] ! musicale1 in/ead ( simple refre%m5ts1 an elaborate supp] is usually giv54 ,?is supp] may consi/ ( jelli$ b\illon1 roa/ meats1 salads1 ices1 confections1 pun*es & c(fee4 ,if an important s+] or play] contributes to ! %>e ( ! ev5+'s ent]ta9m5t he is invit$ to jo9 ! gue/s4 ,aft] supp] ! gue/s conv]se = a half h\r or s1 & dep>t4 ,,c>d ,,p>ties ,,at ,,! ,,musicale ,v (t51 in/ead ( giv+ a d9n]1 a ho/ess w arrange sev]al small tables at :i* f\r gue/s c be com=tably seat$4 ,%e w s]ve light refre%m5ts1 su* z da9ty s&wi*es1 salads1 muff9s1 b\illon & p]haps ices or c(fee4 ,aft] ! light repa/1 ! tables w be cle>$ & c>ds br\ght out4 ,if ! ho/ess decides to h c>ds1 aft] ! musicale1 %e mu/ m5tion x 9 ! invitation4 ,! gue/s may att5d only ! musicale1 if !y wi%1 & leave :5 ! o!r gue/s beg9 ! c>d game4 ,b if ! musicale is held 9 ! ev5+1 & supp] is s]v$1 ! gue/ :o rema9s mu/ also rema9 = ! c>d games z a matt] ( c\rtesy & polit5ess4 ,if he does n wi% to play he may wat* ! o!rs & jo9 9 ! conv]sation dur+ ! int]vals betwe5 games4 ,,duties ,,( ,,gue/s ,,at ,,musicales ,! "o important rule ( conduct at ! musicale is to ma9ta9 absolute sil5ce dur+ ! selections4 ,x is an un=givable brea* ( etiquette to speak1 fidget or o!rwise di/urb ! gue/s :ile ! numb]s are be+ p]=m$4 ,encores are p]missible1 b l\d applause is und5iably vulg>4 ,sil5ce1 int]e/ & att5tion *>act]ize ! ideal gue/ at ! private conc]t4 ,ano!r duty ( ! gue/ is to be prompt4 ,x is v disagreeable to ! p]=m]s1 & to ! ho/ess1 to h gue/s arrive late & di/urb ev]yone4 ,h[ev]1 if "o is unavoidably late1 to (f] pr(use apologies1 :ile ! musicians are p]=m+1 is to make matt]s worse by prolong+ ! di/urbance4 ,in/ead ! gue/ %\ld nod1 take 8 or h] seat1 & aft] ! musicale1 seek out ! ho/ess & (f] apologies = n hav+ be5 on "t4 ,9 tak+ leave ( ! ho/ess1 cordial ?anks = h] ent]ta9m5t are 9 ord]4 ,rem>ks ab\t ! play+ ( ! gue/s are n v good =m1 especially if !y are 9 adv]se criticism4 ,a ^w ( s9c]e praise1 h[ev]1 is nev] amiss4 ,,dress ,,at ,,! ,,musicale ,dress at ! musicale is ess5tially :at x w\ld be if ! occasion 7 an elaborate reception1 & if x is giv5 9 ! ev5+ =mal ev5+ dress is worn4 ,9 ! summ] ?is conv5tion may be set aside 9 favor ( com=t4 ,,arrang+ ,,private ,,!atricals ,ev]yone enjoys private !atricals1 amateur & o!rwise--! ho/ess1 ! gue/s1 & ! actors & actresses !mselves4 ,x is an ideal means ( ent]ta9m5t4 ,9 arrang+ a private !atrical1 :i* is almo/ inv>iably an amateur v5ture1 ! fir/ important ?+ to d is to f9d a play :i* is adapt$ to t tal5t :i* is available4 ,x is wise to appo9t a committee to read num]\s plays & select = f9al consid]ation ^? t seem be/ fitt$ to ! type ( actors & actresses available4 ,if "o ( ! "y m5 is naturally witty & bubbl+ ov] ) hil>ity & good fun1 he mu/ n be giv5 a "p t necessitates grave & solemn behavior4 ,if he1 & ! o!r actors1 are giv5 p>ts n suit$ to !m1 ! play is doom$ to failure be=e x is ev5 /ag$4 ,unless ! p]=m]s h _h "s exp]i5ce 9 !atricals x is be/ to *oose a com$y--= ev5 a ,greek trag$y 9 all its poignant simplicity may become a f>ce 9 ! h&s ( unskilful actors4 ,rehe>sals are ( vital importance4 ,! memb]s ( ! ca/ mu/ rehe>se & rehe>se & rehe>se aga9 until !y "k _! p>ts p]fectly4 ,!y mu/ be punctual & regul> 9 _! att5dance ( ! rehe>sals2 cont9ually to miss !m is to spoil ! play & a lack ( prep>ation on ! "p ( "o actor is unfair to ! o!rs1 = ultimate success dep5ds on ea* "o ( ! play]s4 ,! p]=mance is usually giv5 9 ! draw+-room ( ! ho/ :o issues ! invitations1 :i*1 by ! way1 mu/ be s5t out two or ?ree weeks 9 advance4 ,! ho/ mu/ arrange = /age1 light+ effects1 seat+ facilities & all ! o!r incid5tal details4 ,,! ,,play]s ,9 assign+ p>ts c>e mu/ be tak51 z 0 po9t$ out above1 9 select+ t "* :i* is mo/ 9 accord ) ! play]'s own "*4 ,?is is s important t x _c be ov]-emphasiz$4 ,& :5 f9ally ! correct "p is *os5 = him1 he mu/ le>n 8 l9es s ?or\ghly t he w be able1 figuratively1 to say !m 9 8 sleep4 ,co/umes = ! play may be obta9$ f any !atrical supply h\se4 ,!y mu/ be ( ! /yle preval5t at ! date ( ! play2 ,colonial clo!s 9 a ,mid-,victorian sett+ =$oom ! play to failure4 ,a curta9 may also be hir$ f a !atrical supply h\se1 b x is v simple to adju/ "o made at home by means ( brass r+s su* z are us$ 9 hang+ porti]es4 ,!re %\ld be a sep>ation 9 ! c5t] s t ! curta9 may be drawn back f bo? sides4 ,footlights may consi/ ( a r[ ( small electric lights1 or a r[ ( reflector lamps w imp>t ! desir$ effect to ! improvis$ /age4 ,= w+s1 l>ge ,japanese scre5s w d or !y1 too1 may be hir$ f ! p :o supply ! co/umes4 ,to give ! effect ( lightn+1 a magnesia tor* is mo/ effective4 ,?und] is simulat$ by beat+ sl[ly on a bass drum4 ,ho( beats seem q real :5 produc$ by beat+ two cocoanut %ells on m>ble4 ,! dang] ( /age fright c be less5$ & almo/ oblit]at$ aft] a suffici5t numb] ( rehe>sals1 & ) t poise & self-confid5ce t comes ) true culture1 "o %\ld be able to /& be=e ! l>ge/ audi5ce )\t emb>rassm5t or n]v\sness4 ,x is "o ( ! rew>ds ( correct tra9+4 ,,! ,,gue/s ,z 9 ! musicale1 sil5ce is ess5tial4 ,!re is no?+ m disconc]t+ to actors ?an to notice :isp]+1 giggl+ or lack ( int]e/ 9 ! audi5ce4 ,:e!r ! play is wor?y ( int]e/ or n1 c\rtesy t[>ds gue/s & p]=m]s dem&s ! appe>ance ( int]e/4 ,gue/s mu/ answ] invitations promptly4 ,9 fact1 9 almo/ e detail1 att5d+ a !atrical giv5 9 ! home ( a fri5d requires ! same etiquette z is obs]v$ at a fa%ionable ev5+ musicale4 ,9 dep>t+1 ! ho/ess mu/ be cordially ?ank$ = ! pleasant ev5+1 & if ! actors are fri5ds ( ! assemblage & jo9 ! gue/s aft] ! play1 !y1 too1 mu/ be ?ank$ = _! %>e ( ! ent]ta9m5t4 ,,ho/ ,,& ,,ho/ess ,! ho/ & ho/ess usually receive toge!r at private !atricals4 ,!y /& toge!r at ! door ( ! draw+-room1 welcome ea* gue/ & make ! necess>y introductions4 ,:5 ! curta9 is drawn1 !y take seats ne> ! back & rise to greet any del9qu5t gue/4 ,aft] ! play a supp] may be s]v$4 ,if ! actors are fri5ds !y jo9 9 ! supp]4 ,b sometimes ^! private !atricals are n amateuri%1 b giv5 by pr(essionals1 9 :i* case ! etiquette is some:at diff]5t1 & ! p]=m]s may or may n be invit$1 z ! ho/ess *ooses4 ,engrav$ c>ds are issu$1 & 9 ! l[] left-h& corn] appe>s ! "n ( ! play & ! lead+ actor 7if he happ5s to be a celebrity74 ,! gue/s are expect$ to arrive at a def9ite h\r1 & lat5ess 9 ?is case is inexcusable4 ,if ! pr(essional play]s d n (f] _! s]vices free1 !y mu/ receive remun]ation = !m4 ,,*apt] ,,vii ,,danc+ ,,danc+ ,,z ,a ,,heal?ful ,,art ,danc+ is an art4 ,m ?an t1 x is a heal?ful art4 ,9 its graceful movem5ts1 cad5c$ rhy?ms1 & expressive *>ms are evid5t ! same beautiful emotions t are s eloqu5tly express$ 9 music1 sculpture1 pa9t+4 ,& x is ?r\gh ^! expressions ( emotion1 ?r\gh ?is sil5t poetry ( ! body t danc+ becomes a heal?ful art1 = x imp>ts to ! body--& m9d--a poise & /r5g? )\t :i* no "o c be q happy4 ,x is because ! vital importance ( danc+ on ! m9d & body has be5 univ]sally recogniz$1 t x has be5 add$ to ! curriculum ( public s*ools 9 almo/ e c\ntry4 ,we f9d ! y\ng/]s revell+ 9 folk-dances1 & ent]+ danc+ games ) a _s t gives vigor to _! bodies1 balance & grace to _! movem5ts4 ,consid]1 = a mom5t1 ! irresi/ible wit*]y ( music1 ( rhy?mic cad5ces4 ,we he> ! m>tial note ( ! drum1 & unconsci\sly our feet beat "t4 ,we he> ! fir/ deep *ords ( ! or*e/ra1 & involunt>ily our f+]s m>k ! "t ( ! measure4 ,) ! s(t1 mell[ h>mony ( triplet melodies we are transport$ to ! solemn va/ness ( a m\nta9 beside a gayly rippl+ /ream4 ,) ! deep1 sonor\s bur/s ( triumphant melody1 we are transport$ to ! ocean's edge1 :]e ! rumbl+ ( ! waves holds u 9 aw$ ec/asy4 ,?\ghts ( sorr[1 ( gladness1 ( joy1 ( hope surge ?r\gh u & cry = expression4 ,danc+ is nature's way ( express+ ^! emotions4 ,!n let u dance1 = 9 danc+ we f9d poise & /r5g? & balance4 ,let u dance = 9 danc+ we f9d joy1 pleasure1 hope4 ,x is ! language ( ! feel+s1 & nature meant x = ! expression ( ^? feel+s4 ,x is only :5 danc+ is conf9$ to hot1 cr[d$ rooms :]e ! atmosph]e is un:olesome1 t x loses its heal?ful influ5ce on m9d & body4 ,b :]e !re is pl5ty ( room & fre% air1 pl5ty ( good1 s\l-inspir+ music--we say dance1 "y & old alike1 dance = ! ke5 pleasure & joy ( ! dance itself1 & = ! heal? t foll[s 9 its wake6 ,,dance-,,giv+ ,,no ,,long] ,a ,,luxury ,! day ( ! /rictly =mal dance1 entail+ elaborate supp]s1 pret5ti\s decorations & l>ge or*e/ras has pass$4 ,9 its place is ! simple1 enjoyable1 inexp5sive dance :i* is at once ! delight ( ! gue/s & ! pride ( ! ho/ess4 ,simplicity is ! keynote ( ! mod]n ball4 ,a piano & two /r+$ in/rum5ts usually comprise ! entire or*e/ra4 ,! *>m ( ! home is no long] spoil$ by ov]decoration2 a vase or two conta9+ ! fl[]s ( ! season (f] ! sole t\* ( fe/ivity4 ,!re are1 ( c\rse1 num]\s p]sonal innovations t may be in/itut$2 b z ! gue/s are assembl$ = danc+1 space & a good floor & pl5ty ( fre% air are ! prim>y & p>am\nt requisites4 ,light refre%m5ts h tak5 ! place ( ! l>ge supp]s ( n s long ago4 ,ho/esses no long] feel ov]-burd5$ ) a s5se ( obligation4 ,! dance has become simple & inexp5sive2 & because x is also s ?or\ghly enjoyable & heal?ful1 x has become a favorite sport1 especially dur+ ! cool] mon?s4 ,,! ,,debut ,,dance ,p]haps ! mo/ important dance ( all is t giv5 9 honor ( ! debutante4 ,no matt] h[ l>ge or =mal a dance may be1 x is nev] call$ a ball 9 ! invitation4 ,! latt] is us$ only 9 case ( a l>ge public dance or function4 ,! usual at home =m ( invitation is us$1 & 9 ! l[] left-h& corn] ! ^w danc+ is pr9t$4 ,! "n ( ! "y debutante may be includ$ if x is s desir$1 al?\gh x is n ess5tial4 ,b if x is an ev5+ occasion1 ! "n ( bo? ho/ & ho/ess mu/ appe> on ! invitation4 ,:e!r ! dance is held 9 h] own home or 9 a hall hir$ = ! occasion1 ! ho/ess receives & welcomes ea* gue/4 ,%e may be assi/$ by sev]al ( h] fri5ds :o are well-kn[n 9 society4 ,h] daught] /&s beside h] & is introduc$ to ^? ( h] "m's gue/s :om %e has n already met4 ,! debutante has h] fir/ p>tn] select$ = h] by h] "m4 ,%e may n dance ) "o man m ?an once on ! occasion ( h] introduction to society4 ,b %e is expect$ to dance e dance1 return+ to receive gue/s dur+ ! int]vals4 ,sometimes ! "y debutante has sev]al ( h] *ums receiv+ ) h] = ! fir/ half h\r4 ,%e (f]s h] h& to e gue/ :o arrives1 & introduces 9 turn ! fri5ds :o are assi/+ h]4 ,! fa!r ( ! debutante may receive ) 8 wife1 b 8 duty is m to see t all ! wom5 h p>tn]s1 & t ! *ap]ons are tak5 into supp]4 ,he also sees t ! g5tlem5 d _! duty z danc]s in/ead ( rema9+ 9 ! dress+ room to smoke & *at4 ,! ho/ess does n dance at all1 or if %e does1 x is usually late 9 ! ev5+4 ,%e rema9s at h] po/ at ! door1 welcom+ gue/s & see+ t all %y m5 get p>tn]s & all ! "y girls h a good "t4 ,"o p>am\nt duty ( ! ho/ess is s to arrange h] invitations t !re w be v _m m m5 ?an wom52 ?is elim9ates ! *ance ( !re be+ any unhappy wallfl[]s4 ,ano!r consid]ation is to arrange ! *airs 9 in=mal little gr\ps in/ead ( close to ! walls 9 a solemn & dre>y l9e4 ,,co/ume ,,balls ,! co/ume ball is conduct$ v mu* on ! same ord] z ! =mal ball4 ,! invitations are issu$ two or ?ree weeks be=e ! date set = ! dance1 & z = ! debut dance1 ! ^w ball does n appe> on x4 ,in/ead ! words ,co/umes ( ! ,twelf? ,c5tury or ,%akespe>ean ,co/umes or :atev] may be decid$ ^u are pr9t$ 9 ! l[] left-h& corn] ( usual at home c>ds4 ,9 select+ a fancy co/ume1 "o mu/ be c>eful to *oose only :at is individually becom+4 ,x mu/ be 9 p]fect h>mony ) "o's p]sonality4 ,to assume a "* t is 9 e way oppos$ to "o's own "* is unwise & ungratify+4 ,a s$ate1 quiet "y miss %\ld n *oose a ,folly ,co/ume4 ,nor %\ld a jolly1 vivaci\s "y lady elect to emulate ,m>?a ,wa%+ton4 ,& fur!rmore1 a "* mu/ n be m]ely dress$--x mu/ be liv$4 ,! successful co/ume ball mu/ be reali/ic4 ,,subscription ,,dances ,:at is ! purpose ( ! subscription dance8 ,! "q is a common "o4 ,& ! answ] is simple4 ,a subscription dance is giv5 = ! same reason t any o!r dance is giv5--to be surr\nd$ by "o's fri5ds1 to enjoy music & danc+1 & g5]ally to h a good "t4 ,x is conduct$ v mu* on ! ord] ( ! =mal dance1 except t x is semi-public & is usually held 9 a public hall4 ,!re is no ho/ or ho/ess1 ( c\rse2 _! place is held by an appo9t$ committee or by ! patronesses ( ! dance4 ,!y /& at ! door ( ! ballroom to welcome gue/s1 & !y may ei!r (f] _! h&s or b[ 9 greet+4 ,x is ! duty ( ! patronesses to introduce ^? ( ! gue/s :o are n already acqua9t$4 ,ea* subscrib] to ! dance has ! privilege ( invit+ a c]ta9 numb] ( fri5ds to ! function4 ,or1 if ! memb]%ip decide to give sev]al p]iodic dances1 he is entitl$ to invite a c]ta9 numb] ( fri5ds to ea* "o ( !m4 ,! invitations are issu$ two weeks ahead & require a prompt acceptance or regrets4 ,sometimes elaborate supp]s are s]v$ at ! subscription dance1 ! money = ! exp5ses hav+ be5 appropriat$ f ! subscription fees = ! ent]ta9m5t4 ,or simple refre%m5ts1 su* z da9ty s&wi*es1 salads1 ices1 cakes & pun*1 may be s]v$ at small1 r\nd tables4 ,9 dep>t+1 x is n consid]$ necess>y to take leave ( ! patronesses4 ,h[ev]1 if !y are on duty at ! door1 a cordial ^w or two ( consid]ation = _! ef=ts may be ext5d$4 ,,! ,,ballroom ,ev]y?+ 9 ! ballroom %\ld sugge/ gayety1 light & beauty4 ,! floor1 ( c\rse1 is ! mo/ important detail4 ,a poli%$ h>dwood floor (f]s ! mo/ pleas+ surface = danc+4 ,if ! wood seems /icky1 p>aff9e wax adds a smoo?ness t actually tempts "o to dance4 ,fl[]s are always pleas+4 ,huge f]ns may grace unexpect$ corn]s & gre5s may add a fe/ive note1 if ! ho/ess s desires4 ,b !re mu/ n be an obvi\s attempt at decoration4 ,r no?+ at all1 ?an s v mu* t x bord]s on ! o/5tati\s4 ,9 fact1 ! dance is t5d+ m & m to become a simple & unpret5ti\s function4 ,! elaborate decorations & fa%ionable conv5tions t att5d$ ! m9uet & quadrille ( sev]al decades ago h giv5 way to a jolly in=mality :i* makes ! dance s delightful & popul> a way ( ent]ta9+4 ,,music ,,at ,,! ,,dance ,! music1 ( c\rse1 is important4 ,a piano & "o or two /r+$ in/rum5ts are suffici5t4 ,! musicians %\ld be hidd5 beh9d a clu/] ( palms1 or plac$ 9 a balcony4 ,ord9>ily ! selections are arrang$ previ\sly by ! ho/ess4 ,%e mu/ also arrange = encores1 & %\ld make provision = special selections :i* ! gue/s may desire4 ,,dance ,,programs ,! dance program is r>ely us$ n[ except at college dances1 or army & navy dances4 ,x has lo/ pre/ige ) ! pass+ ( ! old-fa%ion$ ball4 ,b sometimes !re are special occasions :5 ! ho/ess wi%es to h programs1 9 :i* case !y s]ve n only z pretty & conv5i5t adjuncts to ! occasion1 b z appropriate mem5tos4 ,gilt-edg$ c>ds atta*$ ) a silk cord & provid$ ) a t9y p5cil are pretty :5 an attractive little sket* or a bit ( v]se enliv5s ! front cov]4 ,ea* dance is ent]$ on ! program--& _m a delightful memory is kept alive by glanc+ at ^! names days aft] ! dance 0 held4 ,^! programs may be fill$ be=eh& or !y may be fill$ at ! dance4 ,,d9n] ,,dances ,at ! d9n] dance1 ! ho/ess issues two sets ( invitations1 "o = ^? :om %e wi%es to invite = d9n] & dance bo?1 & "o = ^? :om %e wi%es to invite to ! dance only4 ,= ! =m] ! ord9>y d9n] invitation may be issu$1 ) ! words ,danc+ at ,n9e add$ 9 ! left-h& corn]4 ,= ! latt]1 ! ord9>y at home invitation ) ! same words ,danc+ at ,n9e add$ also 9 ! left-h& corn] is correct =m4 ,(t5 ! ho/ess has a buffet supp] in/ead ( a d9n]4 ,all ! gue/s p>take ( ?is refre%m5t4 ,on a long table1 decorat$ ) fl[]s1 are salads1 s&wi*es1 ices1 jellies & fruits :i* may be p>tak5 ( ?r\gh\t ! entire ev5+4 ,sometimes hot b\illon is also s]v$1 & v (t5 a midnight supp] is giv5 at :i* hot c\rses are 9 ord]4 ,if a dance is s*$ul$ to be held 9 ! ballroom ( a hotel1 ! gue/s :o are invit$ to d9n] may be s]v$ 9 ! d9+-room ( t hotel4 ,! small tables are usually decorat$ ) lamps & fl[]s = ! occasion1 & ! d9n] may be ord]$ by ! ho/ess sev]al days 9 advance4 ,,dress+ ,,rooms ,:e!r ! dance be l>ge or small1 dress+ rooms1 or coat rooms1 z !y are sometimes call$1 are ess5tial = ! conv5i5ce ( ! gue/s4 ,!re mu/ be "o = ! g5tlem5 & "o = ! ladies1 ea* prop]ly furni%$4 ,x is usual to h a maid s]vant 9 att5dance 9 ! dress+ room set ap>t = ! ladies4 ,%e helps !m relieve !mselves ( _! wraps :5 !y arrive1 & to don !m aga9 :5 !y are ready to dep>t4 ,a dress+-table1 completely furni%$ ) h&-mirror1 p[d]1 p]fume & a small lamp1 %\ld be provid$4 ,a full-size mirror is always appreciat$4 ,sometimes1 :5 a great numb] ( gue/s are expect$1 a *eck+ sy/em is devis$ to simplify matt]s & aid ! maid 9 id5tify+ ! wraps4 ,! m5's dress+ room may be provid$ ) a smok+ table suppli$ ) all ! necess>y requisites = smok+1 mat*es1 a%-trays1 cig>-cutt]s1 etc4 ,"h also a s]vant is usually on h& to (f] ! g5tleman 8 s]vice :]ev] x is ne$$4 ,,! ,,dance ,!re is a less] =mality1 a great] gayety 9 ! ballroom ( to-day4 ,! dance-c>d & program are no long] enjoy+ unrival$ vogue z !y did :5 our gr&mo!rs' danc$ ! waltz & cotillon4 ,! pauses betwe5 dances are %ort]4 ,some?+ ( ! old dignity is gone1 b 9 its place is a new romance t is p]haps m gratify+4 ,x is n a romance ( ! ,mid-,victorian p]iod1 or a romance t c>ries ) x ! brea? ( my/]y4 ,x is a /rangely companionable & level-head$ romance :i* p]vades ! ballroom & makes ev]yone1 "y & old1 man & woman1 want to get out on ! floor & dance to ! tune ( ! pretty melodies4 ,b ! ballroom ( good society1 mu/ reta9 its dignity ev5 :ile x indulges 9 ! new romance ( ! dance4 ,x mu/ obs]ve c]ta9 little rules ( good conduct )\t :i* x loses all ! grace & *>m :i* are ! pride & inspiration ( ! danc+ c\ples4 ,!re is1 = in/ance1 ! etiquette ( ask+ a lady to dance1 & accept+ ! invitation 9 a mann] graci\sly befitt+ ! well-br$ "y lady ( ! tw5tie? c5tury4 ,,:5 ,,! ,,lady ,,is ,,ask$ ,,to ,,dance ,be=e ask+ anyone else to dance1 ! g5tleman mu/ reque/ ! fir/ dance ( ! lady he escort$ to ! ball4 ,!n he takes c>e t %e has a p>tn] = ea* dance1 & t %e is nev] left a wallfl[] :ile he dances ) "s o!r lady4 ,at ! conclusion ( ! dance1 ! g5tleman ?anks ! lady = ! dance & goes (f to f9d 8 next p>tn]4 ,! lady does n seek h] p>tn] = ! next dance1 if %e has promis$ x to anyone1 b waits until he comes to claim h]4 ,a man %\ld nev] leave a woman /&+ alone on ! floor4 ,,cutt+ ,,9 ,a mod]n sy/em ( cutt+ 9 seems to be enjoy+ a vogue among our "y p4 ,:ile a dance is 9 progress1 a "y man may cut 9 & ask ! lady to f9i% ! dance ) him4 ,if ! dance has n be5 v long 9 progress1 & ! "y lady wi%es to cont9ue x1 %e may nod & say1 ,! next "t we pass "h4 ,! dance cont9ues ar\nd ! room1 & :5 ! c\ple rea* ! same place aga91 ! lady leaves h] p>tn] & f9i%es ! dance ) ! "y man :o has cut 94 ,p]haps ?is cu/om ( cutt+ 9 c>ries ) x ! m]e/ sugge/ion ( disc\rtesy1 b :5 we consid] ! in=mal gayety ( ! ballroom1 ! ke5 & :ole-he>t$ love ( danc+1 we c und]/& :y ! privilege is ext5d$4 ,l _m ano!r privilege1 x becomes di/a/eful :5 x is abus$4 ,x is n good =m = a c\ple to dance toge!r s _m times z to make !mselves conspicu\s4 ,m5 %\ld n neglect _! duty z danc]s because !y pref] to smoke or simply to act z spectators4 ,,danc+ ,,positions ,danc+ has be5 revolutioniz$ s9ce ! day :5 ! ,g]man waltz 0 fir/ introduc$ to polite society4 ,& x is safe to say t "s ( our au/]e gr&dames w\ld feel righte\sly indignant if !y 7 sudd5ly br\ght back to ! ballroom & =c$ to witness "s ( ! mod]n dance innovations6 ,!re seems to be an attempt1 on ! "p ( ! y\ng] g5]ation 7al?\gh ! old] g5]ation is n s v f> beh9d67 to a*ieve absolute fre$om ( movem5t1 to g ?r\gh ! dance ) a c]ta9 unre/ra9$ impulsiv5ess unkn[n to ! m9uet or graceful quadrille4 ,^! new] dances & danc+ int]pretations are *>m+ & ent]ta9+2 & yet !re is ! possibility ( _! becom+ vulg> if prop] danc+ positions are n tak54 ,! position is especially important 9 ! late/ dances4 ,9 guid+ a lady across ! poli%$ floor to ! tune ( a simple waltz or a gay fox-trot1 ! g5tleman encircles h] wai/ half way ) 8 "r arm1 lay+ ! palm ( 8 h& lightly j above ! wai/ l9e4 ,) 8 left h&1 he holds h] "r at arm's l5g? 9 ! position mo/ com=table = bo? ( !m1 tak+ special c>e n to hold x 9 an awkw>d or unga9ly position4 ,8 face is always turn$ slightly to ! left1 :ile h]s usually faces front or slightly to ! "r4 ,! girl %\ld place h] left arm on h] p>tn]'s "r arm4 ,%e mu/ foll[ him & n try to lead ! dance h]self4 ,:5 ! dance requires c]ta9 sway+ movem5ts1 z almo/ all mod]n dances d1 ! lady incl9es h] body 9 h>mony ) t ( h] p>tn]1 & if ! prop] c>e is tak5 to reta9 "o's poise & dignity1 n ev5 a mo/ exact+ *ap]on c f9d fault ) ! new /eps4 ,,:5 ,,! ,,gue/ ,,does ,,n ,,dance ,always at a dance1 =mal or in=mal1 !re are gue/s :o d n dance4 ,usually !y are m51 = !re is r>ely a woman :o does n "k ! /eps ( ! late/ dances--t is1 if %e ev] does accept invitations at all4 ,b ! gue/ :o does n dance is "o ( ! un=tunate ?+s ! ho/ess has to put up ) at e "o ( h] dances4 ,& !re is r>ely ev] an excuse = x4 ,e man :o m+les 9 society at all1 :o enjoys ! company ( brilliant wom5 & attractive "y ladies1 :o accepts ! invitations ( ho/esses1 is fail+ 9 8 duty :5 he (f]s z an excuse ! fact t he doesn't "k h[ to dance--= !re are suffici5t s*ools ( danc+ 9 e city & t[n :]e ! late/ /eps c be le>n$ quickly4 ,if = any reason1 a g5tleman does n "k h[ to dance1 & does n want to le>n1 he may make up = x by ent]ta9+ ! *ap]ons :ile _! *>ges are danc+1--conv]s+ ) !m1 walk+ ab\t ) !m & escort+ !m to ! refre%m5t table1 & altoge!r %[ by 8 k9d att5tiv5ess t he realizes 8 defici5cy & wi%es to make up = x4 ,to l\nge 9 ! dress+-room1 smok+ & *att+ ) o!r g5tlem5 is bo? unfair to ! ho/ess & ess5tially rude 9 ! matt] ( ballroom etiquette4 ,! true g5tleman w\ld r decl9e an invitation ?an be unfair to 8 ho/ess & h] gue/s 9 ?is respect4 ,,public ,,dances ,v (t5 public dances are giv5 9 honor ( "s special occasion or a celebrat$ gue/4 ,!y are v mu* l private dances1 except t a specially appo9t$ committee fulfills ! position & duties ( ! ho/ess4 ,at mo/ public balls1 ! committee is compos$ ( m5 & wom5 :o we> badges to indicate _! position1 & :o /& at ! door to receive & welcome ea* gue/4 ,^! m5 & wom5 d n dance ! fir/ dance1 b wait until lat] 9 ! ev5+ :5 !y are q sure t all ! gue/s h arriv$2 & !n !y are always back at _! duty dur+ ! int]vals betwe5 dances4 ,gue/s arriv+ at a public dance greet ! patronesses ) a smile ( welcome & a ^w or two1 b r>ely (f] _! h&s to be %ak5 unless ! ladies s]v+ z patronesses take ! initiative4 ,!y may /ay = "o or two dances1 or ?r\gh\t ! :ole ev5+1 z !y pref]2 & :5 dep>t+1 x is n necess>y to seek out ! patronesses & bid !m good-by4 ,engrav$ invitations are usually issu$ ?ree weeks be=e ! date set = ! ball4 ,on ^! c>ds ! names ( ! patronesses are also engrav$4 ,if ! entrance to ! ball is by pur*as$ ticket1 su* z is always ! case :5 ! ball is giv5 = "s *>ity1 ! invitations mu/ be pres]v$ & %[n at ! entrance4 ,sometimes a supp] is includ$ 9 ! arrangem5t ( ! public ball1 & 9 su* case a cat]] is engag$ to att5d to all details1 includ+ s]vants4 ,a buffet supp] is always ! mo/ pleas+ & satisfactory z ! gue/s may p>take ( ! foods :5 !y desire & !re is no confusion or int]ruption to ! dance4 ,hot b\illon1 v>i\s meats1 salads1 cakes1 ices1 fruits & confections are an ideal m5u4 ,c(fee or pun* is sometimes add$4 ,:5 a public ball is giv5 9 honor ( "s special p]son1 t p]son mu/ be met on 8 arrival & imm$iately introduc$ to ! wom5 on ! reception committee & escort$ to ! seat res]v$ = him4 ,he mu/ be att5d$ ?r\gh\t ! ev5+1 introduc$ to ev]yone he does n "k1 & all 8 wants c>efully tak5 c>e (4 ,:5 he dep>ts1 he mu/ be escort$ to 8 c>riage1 & if he is a celebrat$ p]sonage ?ank$ = 8 pres5ce--al?\gh truly cultur$ g5tlem5 pref] n to h ?is honor paid !m4 ,a public ball is ei!r a trem5d\s success or a mis]able failure4 ,!re is no 9-betwe54 ,& ! success or failure re/s solely on ! good judgm5t & influ5ce ( ! ladies & g5tlem5 ( ! committees1 includ+1 ( c\rse1 ^? :o receive4 ,to m+le freely among ! gue/s1 to jo9 9 ! conv]sation1 to introduce gue/s to ea* o!r & f9d p>tn]s = ! wallfl[]s--all ^! little s]vices t5d to ar\se a _s ( fri5dl9ess & h>mony t _c b result 9 an ev5+ t w be long rememb]$ 9 ! m9ds ( e gue/4 ,a ,,plea ,,= ,,danc+ ,lately !re has be5 a great deal ( unfavorable criticism direct$ aga9/ ! mod]n dances4 ,!re h be5 newspap] articles condemn+ ! late/ dance fads z immoral & degrad+4 ,!re h be5 spee*es & lectures aga9/ %ak+ & twi/+ ( ! body into weird1 outl&i% contortions4 ,!re h be5 vigor\s crusades aga9/ dance halls4 ,& all because a few ill-br$1 fun-lov+1 c>efree "y p wrongly int]pret$ ! new dances 9 _! own way & gave to ! /eps ! vulg> ab&on appropriate only to ! *eap vaudeville /age or ! l[ dance hall4 ,danc+1 ev5 ! %\ld]-%ak+1 oscillat+ danc+ ( to-day1 is really n int5d$ to be vulg> or immoral at all1 despite ! crusades ( ! anti-immorality danc+ committees6 ,:at is danc+1 aft] all1 if n ! expression ( "o's ideals & emotions8 ,x is only ! man or woman ) a vulg> m9d1 ) base ideals1 :o w give a vulg> int]pretation to a dance ( any k9d4 ,b ! ess5tially f9e girl1 ! really well-br$ man1 ! p :o1 by _! poise & dignity h e>n$ = ,am]ica ! envi$ title ( ,republic ( ! ,ari/ocrats--!y dance ^! late/ creations = ! %e] joy ( ! dance itself1 revel+ 9 its newness1 enjoy+ ! novelty ( its diff]5t /eps1 see+ no?+ 9 its sl[ undulations or brisk little /eps1 b art--a jazzy art1 to be sure1 b /ill ! beautiful art ( danc+4 ,& s we plead--let ! y\ng] g5]ation enjoy its giddy waltzes & brisk-pac$ fox-trots & fancy new dances j z gr&mo!r1 :5 %e 0 "y1 0 all[$ to enjoy ! m9uet & ! sl[ waltz4 ,!y are diff]5t1 yes1 & r h>d to accept aft] ! dignifi$ dances ( n s long ago4 ,b !y are picturesque1 to say ! lea/1 & arti/ic4 ,! gracefully-sway+ bodies1 keep+ /ep 9 p]fect h>mony to ! tunes ( ! new] symphony or*e/ras1 are delightful to wat*2 & 9 good society1 "y m5 & wom5 c always be tru/$ to deport !mselves ) utt] grace & poise4 ,! m9uet 0 decid$ly graceful4 ,! old ,g]man waltz ) its dreamy1 haunt+ melody 0 beautiful z x 0 enjoyable4 ,b !y h be5 relegat$ into ! days ( hoop skirts & p[d]$ wigs4 ,to-day ! jazzy dances are 9 vogue1 & society 9 its l[e/ & highe/ circles is f9d+ int5se pleasure 9 ! :irl+1 swirl+ dances decre$ by fa%ion z h] favorites4 ,:y compla98 ,p]haps 9 ano!r ye> or two1 ^! giddy-pac$ dances w be out ( /yle & 9 _! /ead w be solemn1 sl[ dances m graceful & /ately ?an ev5 ! m9uet ( yore4 ,,! ,,*>m ,,( ,,dress ,,9 ,,danc+ ,imm$iately aft] ! ,reign ( ,t]ror1 ,france 0 plung$ into a reckless r\nd ( unre/ra9$ gayety t c come only f love ( life & y\? & laught] long p5t-up4 ,x 0 z ?\gh an avalan*e ( joy _h be5 releas$2 x 0 9 reality ! reaction f ! t]rors & nightm>es ( ^? two ye>s ( horror4 ,! p 7 free1 free to d z !y pleas$ )\t ! fe> ( ! guillot9e ev] pres5t2 & all ,france w5t mad ) rejoic+4 ,x 0 !n t danc+ came into its own4 ,almo/ ov]night huge dance halls sprang up4 ,! homes ( weal?y ari/ocrats :o _h be5 sacrific$ to ! mon/] guillot9e1 7 conv]t$ into places = danc+4 ,e available in* ( space 0 utiliz$ = ! dance4 ,& ! m ^! fre$ p danc$1 ! m _! spirits so>$ ) ! joy ( life & liv+1 until !y f\nd 9 ! dance itself ! int]pretation ( fre$om & all t x means4 ,a biograph] :o 0 an eye-witness ( ?is madcap ,p>is1 wrote 9 detail ab\t ! dance & ! dress ( ^! p4 ,he told h[ !y dress$ 9 ! brighte/ clo!s !y c\ld obta91 = madd5$ ) happ9ess z !y 71 !y in/9ctively felt t bright clo!s w\ld enliv5 _! spirits4 ,& !y did6 ,! room 0 a mass ( swirl+1 twirl+ figures1 ! biograph] writes1 m51 wom5 & *ildr5 9 weird1 vivid clo!s4 ,x seem$ natural t !y %\ld be danc+ s wildly 9 _! wild co/umes2 9 _! sabots & aprons ( two mon?s ago !y w\ld n h be5 able to take "o /ep4 ,x is1 !n1 ! _s ( clo!s t imp>ts to "o ! _s ( ! dance4 ,we h m5tion$ ^! facts ab\t ! ,reign ( ,t]ror to %[ :at effect clo!s d h on ! _s1 & incid5tally to %[ :at ! ballroom owes to dress4 ,= x is und\bt$ly ! gayly-color$ dance frock ( ! miss ( ! tw5tie? c5tury1 & ! /rik+ly immaculate dance suit ( h] p>tn] t gives to ! ballroom to-day mu* ( its spl5did brilliance4 ,,at ,,! ,,aft]noon ,,dance ,!re c be no comp>ison betwe5 ! mad dance ( fre$ ,france & ! simple1 graceful dance ( to-day4 ,yet we c see ! effect ( clo!s 9 relation to bo?4 ,x is n (t5 t dances are held 9 ! aft]noon1 b :5 ! occasion does arise1 dress is j z gay & colorful z "o c we> )\t be+ gaudy4 ,! decor\s effect ( ^! bright-color$ co/umes is :at br+s ! giddy kaleidoscopic :irl ( colors & co/umes1 modes & mann]s t ! hi/orian speaks ( :5 he m5tions ! ballroom4 ,= ! aft]noon dance1 we w\ld sugge/ t ! v "y p]son *oose ! fluffie/ & mo/ becom+ /yle :i* fa%ion p]mits4 ,trim x gaily1 b above all1 make x y\?ful--= y\? & danc+ are peculi>ly alli$4 ,! old] woman w want a g[n t is m suit$ to h] ye>s4 ,x may be ( taffeta1 ,canton crepe or crepe-de-*9e2 b sat9 is "o ( ! mat]ials t is pref]r$ = m =mal occasions ?an ! aft]noon dance4 ,! colors may be somb]1 to mat* "o's ta/es1 b ! trimm+ %\ld h a note ( gayety4 ,decollete is nev] worn at ! aft]noon dance4 ,%ort sleeves may be worn if ,fa%ion favors !m at ! "t1 & ! neck ( ! g[n is also cut on ! l9es t agree ) ! preval5t mode4 ,b x is extremely bad ta/e1 ev5 = a v celebrat$ gue/ ( honor1 to att5d ! aft]noon dance 9 a sleeveless1 decollete g[n4 ,a late cu/om seems to favor ! we>+ ( sat9 slipp]s to mat* ! g[n4 ,x is n by any means bad ta/e1 b pat5t lea!r or kid pumps are pref]r$ = ! aft]noon1 res]v+ ! m elaborate sat9 pumps = ev5+ we>4 ,long :ite silk or kid gloves & a light-color$ aft]noon wrap complete ! correct dress = ! aft]noon dance4 ,! hat1 ( c\rse1 dep5ds on ,fa%ion's :im at ! mom5t4 ,,g5tlem5 ,,at ,,! ,,dance ,9 summ]1 ! g5tleman may we> a complete suit ( gray ) a :ite duck wai/coat & light l95 to ! aft]noon dance1 complet+ 8 co/ume ) black pat5t lea!r %oes or ox=d ties1 light gray gloves1 & /raw hat ) black & :ite b&4 ,b :e!r x be = summ] or w9t]1 ! d>k suit is always bett] ta/e4 ,x may be ( s]ge1 twillet or homespun1 pref]5ce be+ giv5 always to ! conv5tional navy blue s]ge4 ,d\ble-brea/$ models are appropriate = ! "y man2 s+le-brea/$ = ! old]4 ,light l95 & bright ties are 9 full accordance ) ! gay colors worn by ! wom5 at ! dance4 ,! coat may be ! ord9>y unl9$1 /raight hang+ ov]coat ( ?9 mat]ial 9 a light color1 or x may be an attractive full-belt$ raglan coat ( tan or br[n fleece4 ,9 ei!r case x is worn ) ! conv5tional aft]noon hat ( ! season4 ,,dress ,,= ,,! ,,ball ,:5 ! dance is held 9 ! ev5+1 x (t5 assumes an air ( =mality4 ,x is at ! ball t su* important ev5ts z introduc+ "o's daught] to society or celebrat+ ! graduation ( "o's son f college1 takes place4 ,( c\rse1 "o we>s "o's mo/ important jewels to ! ball1 & indulges 9 a headdress t is a trifle m elaborate ?an usual4 ,! ev5t is a brilliant "o1 & if gaud9ess & o/5tation are consci5ti\sly avoid$1 "o may dress z elaborately z "o pleases4 ,?is does n mean1 h[ev]1 t ! woman ^: purse p]mits only "o ev5+ g[n1 ne$ feel ill at ease or self-consci\s at ! ball1 = simplicity has a delightful attractiv5ess all its own1 & if ! g[n is well-made ( excell5t mat]ials1 & 9 a /yle & color t is becom+1 "o w be j z effectively dress$ z ! mu*-bejewel$ d[ag]4 ,,dress ,,( ,,! ,,debutante ,a g[n is *os5 ) mu* prem$itat$ consid]ation = s mom5t\s an occasion z be+ u%]$ into society4 ,! "y lady does well to seek ! advice ( h] fri5ds :o are already 9 society1 & ( h] modi/e :o kn[s by long exp]i5ce j :at is correct & becom+4 ,b p]haps we c give "s advice "h t w be helpful4 ,a delicately t9t$ g[n1 9 pa/el %ades1 or "o t is pure :ite is pref]r$ = ! happy debutante4 ,tulle1 *iffon1 net & silk georgette are ! mo/ popul> mat]ials4 ,! /yle %\ld be y\?ful & simple1 pref]ably bord]+ on ! b\ffant l9es r ?an on ^? t are m sev]ely sl5d]4 ,! neck may be cut squ>e1 r\nd or he>t-%ap$1 & elb[-l5g? sleeves or full-l5g? lace sleeves are pref]r$4 ,! sleeveless g[n is r>ely worn by ! "y debutante4 ,! debutante :o we>s _m jewels displays poor ta/e4 ,j a /r+ ( s(tly gl[+ pe>ls1 or "o small diamond broo*1 is suffici5t4 ,h] hair %\ld be arrang$ simply 9 a ,fr5* coil or y\?ful coiffure1 & %\ld be :olly )\t ornam5tation4 ,simplicity1 9 fact1 is "o ( ! *>ms ( y\?1 & ! wise "y p]son does n sacrifice x to ov]-elaboration1 ev5 on ! day ( h] debut4 ,,wraps ,,at ,,! ,,ball ,! woman we>s h] mo/ elaborate ev5+ wrap to ! ball4 ,s(t mat]ials 9 light %ades are sugge/$1 ) trimm+s ( fur = ! w9t] mon?s4 ,a wrap ( old blue or old rose velvet ) a coll> ( :ite fox is becom+ & attractive :5 x is )9 "o's means4 ,b ! simple wrap ( clo?1 untrimm$1 is c]ta9ly bett] ta/e = ! woman ^: means are limit$4 ,h[ev]1 discrim9ation %\ld be %[n 9 ! selection ( l9es & colors4 ,a simple wrap1 well-cut1 & ( f9e mat]ial 9 a becom+ %ade1 is z appropriate & effective z a wrap completely ( fur4 ,= ! woman :o mu/ dress economically a d>k loose coat ( black sat9 is s]viceable = _m occasions4 ,hats are nev] worn to ! ball4 ,a %awl or sc>f ( f9e lace may be ?r[n ov] ! hair & %\ld]s4 ,or a small] %awl may be ti$ m]ely ar\nd ! head4 ,sat9 pumps are worn1 usually ) buckle trimm+s2 & long gloves ( :ite silk or kid1 or 9 a color to mat* ! g[n1 complete ! outfit4 ,,ball ,,dress ,,= ,,m5 ,no?+ less /rictly =mal ?an ! complete full dress suit is worn by ! g5tleman at ! ev5+ ball4 ,8 co/ume /rikes a somb]1 yet sm>t1 note4 ,:e!r x be summ] or w9t]1 ! g5tleman we>s ! black full dress coat1 lapels sat9-fac$ if he s desires1 & tr\s]s to mat*4 ,full roll$ wai/coat1 small b[-tie & /iff l95 are all immaculately :ite4 ,pat5t lea!r pumps & black silk socks complete ! outfit4 ,9 summ]1 ! g5tleman we>s ov] 8 full dress suit a light unl9$ coat1 pref]ably black 9 color4 ,if ! lapels ( ! suit are sat9-fac$1 ! coat lapels may correspond4 ,:ite kid gloves are worn1 & a conv5tional silk hat4 ,9 w9t]1 ! coat may be a heavy1 d>k-color$ raglan1 al?\gh ! ,*e/]field ov]coat m suits 8 dignifi$ dress4 ,) x he we>s :ite kid gloves & a high silk hat or felt ,alp9e z he pref]s4 ,,= ,,! ,,simple ,,c\ntry ,,dance ,!re c be no?+ m picturesque & delightful ?an "s ( ! pretty little social dances held 9 ! small] t[ns4 ,sometimes !y are held 9 ! aft]noon2 m (t5 9 ! ev5+1 b always !y are a s\rce ( ke5 enjoym5t bo? to ! p>ticipants & to ^? :o look on4 ,we are go+ to tell y ab\t a dance held rec5tly 9 ! home ( a social lead] 9 a typical small t[n4 ,ev]yone ( any consequ5ce :atev] att5d$1 & ! occasion prov$ "o wor?y ( remembrance 9 ! social annals ( ! t[n4 ,!re 7 p]haps "o hundr$ & fifty wom5 & "o hundr$ m54 ,?ree rooms 9 ! ho/ess' home 7 ?r[n op5 into "o huge ballroom4 ,! danc+ began at eight o'clock 9 ! ev5+--r e>ly = ! city1 b unusually late = ?is c\ntry t[n4 ,to a visitor f s gay a metropolis z ,new ,york1 ! simplicity ( ! wom5's dress 0 a pleas+ *ange4 ,!y 7 9 ev5+ dress1 yes1--b a /rangely m cons]vative ev5+ dress ?an t describ$ previ\sly = ! =mal ball4 ,!re 7 no sleeveless g[ns1 no elaborate decolletes4 ,taffetas1 *iffons & silk brocades 7 develop$ simply into g[ns ( dignifi$ *>m4 ,"o did n notice individual g[ns1 = no "o woman 0 dress$ m elaborately ?an ano!r4 ,?is is :at ev]yone %\ld /rive =--simplicity ) *>m & a complete abs5ce ( all conspicu\sness4 ,illu/ration3 ,photo by ,george ,h4 ,davis1 ,jr4 ,c\rtesy ( ! ,woman's ,home ,companion ,,! ,,pun* ,,table ,?is is a v pleas+ =m ( refre%m5t dur+ ! summ] mon?s ,fa%ion has be5 condemn$4 ,wom5 h be5 ridicul$ = _! extreme ta/es4 ,z a matt] ( fact1 civilization owes dress a great debt1 & wom5 h an inh]5t good ta/e4 ,& bo? ^! facts are =cibly prov$ at ! c\ntry dance1 :]e simplicity & h>mony ( color comb9e to give an effect t is :olly delightful & *>m+4 ,! lesson we might take f ?is is t simplicity 9 dress has m beauty & effect ?an elaborate creations4 ,,*apt] ,,viii ,,games ,,& ,,sport ,,:y ,,! ,,_w ,,plays ,all ! _w loves to play4 ,9 *ildhood1 x is ! v language ( life4 ,9 y\?1 x vies ) ! /]n] bus9ess ( "y manhood or womanhood4 ,:5 we are old] & ! days ( *ildhood are b a fad+ memory1 we /ill h "s hobby t (f]s recreation f our bus9ess & social duties4 ,x may be golf or t5nis or billi>ds2 b x is play--& x is a relaxation4 ,x is a fundam5tal law ( nature t we %all play 9 proportion to ! am\nt ( "w we d4 ,! inevitable tir$ bus9ess man f9ds inc5tive 9 ! ?\ght ( a brisk game ( golf aft] clos+ h\rs4 ,! busy ho/ess looks =w>d to ! aft]noon t %e w be able to devote exclusively to t5nis4 ,! man or woman :o does n play is miss+ "o ( ! ke5e/ pleasures ( life4 ,b !re is an etiquette ( sport & games1 j z !re is an etiquette ( ! ballroom & d9n] table4 ,"o mu/ "k h[ to conduct oneself on ! golf l9ks & at ! *ess table1 j z "o mu/ "k h[ to conduct oneself at d9n] or at ! op]a4 ,& 9 "o's play1 "o mu/ rememb] t t\*+ little fable ( ! frogs :o 7 /on$ by boys1 9 :i* ! poor little creatures cri$1 ,:at is play to y is dea? to u4 ,be k9d1 unselfi% & fair4 ,d n sacrifice1 9 ! excit+ joy\sness ( ! game1 ! little c\rtesies ( social life4 ,rememb] ,burns' pretty bit ( v]se--we _c resi/ ! temptation ( pr9t+ x "h3 ,pleasures are l poppies spread1 ,y seize ! fl[]1 its bloom is %$2 ,or1 l ! sn[fall on ! riv]1 ,a mom5t :ite1 !n melts =ev]4 ,,fair ,,play ,no?+ s quickly betrays a p]son z unfairness 9 games4 ,x h>dly seems necess>y to m5tion x1 to caution anyone aga9/ x4 ,yet s _m p are prone to believe t ! c\rtesies we obs]ve 9 social life1 may be entirely =gott5 9 ! _w ( sport & pleasure--& t ) !m1 we may =get our scruples4 ,*eat+ is a h>% ^w & we d n want to use x4 ,b :at o!r ^w c be us$ to describe unfairness1 to describe selfi% disc\rtesies8 ,fair play is a jewel4 ,?is prov]b has be5 h&$ d[n to u among o!r old say+s ( ! ,dani%1 & ,d5m>k loves its games & sports z few o!r c\ntries d4 ,x 0 "h t ! game ( ,bridge fir/ _h its inception4 ,x 0 "h t ! game ( ,bo/on fir/ won prom95ce4 ,_m ( ! games & sports practic$ 9 ,am]ica to-day _h _! orig9 9 ,d5m>k4 ,& x 0 t c\ntry t gave to u ! gold5 prov]b1 ,fair play is a jewel4 ,we c\ld fill a complete volume on ! e?ics ( sport1 b x is n necess>y to elaborate on ! subject 9 a book ( etiquette4 ,:5 y are on ! t5nis c\rts or at ! billi>d tables rememb] only to obs]ve ! same good mann]s & c\rtesies t *>act]ize y\r social life--& y w play fair4 ,,indoor ,,games ,bridge & *ess h long be5 ! boon ( puzzl$ ho/esses4 ,^! indoor games (f] a weal? ( int]e/ & enjoym5t to visit+ gue/s1 & 9 social circles !y are frequ5tly resort$ to1 to make an aft]noon or ev5+ pass pleasantly4 ,e woman :o ev] invites p to h] home %\ld "k ! etiquette ( indoor games4 ,x is also necess>y t %e h]self "k h[ to play ! games1 z x w be expect$ t %e jo9 h] gue/s4 ,at a rec5t silv] w$d+ ! ho/ & ho/ess evolv$ ! novel idea ( sp5d+ ! ev5+ play+ bridge ) ! gue/s & (f]+ silv] prizes to ! w9n]s4 ,ev]yone enjoy$ ! ev5+1 & x sav$ ! ho/ess ! tr\ble ( worry+ ab\t provid+ satisfactory ent]ta9m5t4 ,"s wom5 :o enjoy indoor games =m clubs = ! purpose ( devot+ "o or m aft]noons or ev5+s a week to ! favor$ game4 ,!re are num]\s *ess & bridge clubs t meet 9 private homes or 9 club-rooms r5t$ = ! purpose4 ,! usual me?od is to meet at ! home ( "o ( ! memb]s1 rotat+ ea* week s t ea* memb] has h] turn at be+ ho/ess4 ,,*ess ,!re is some?+ romantic1 some?+ /rangely fanciful 9 ! old game ( *ess4 ,its orig9 is =gott5 9 a dim pa/--a pa/ ar\nd :i* is wov5 hi/orical tales ( k+s & que5s1 int]e/+ anecdotes ( anci5t sports & pleasures4 ,!re is p]haps no indoor game z old & z belov$4 7,see footnote47,b ,b ,to inspire int]e/ 9 c]ta9 games1 & to give r5ew$ ze/ to ^? :o h already made "o ( ^! games a hobby1 x 0 consid]$ wor?-:ile to give 9 ^! *apt]s ! int]e/+ facts reg>d+ ! orig9 ( "s ( our popul> mod]n games4 ,we are indebt$ to ,paul ,monckton1 ^: spl5did book1 ,pa/imes 9 ,times ,pa/ has help$ u to make ?is possible4 ,*ess is also "o ( ! mo/ univ]sal ( games4 ,9 slightly alt]$ =m1 x is play$ 9 almo/ e c\ntry4 ,games resembl+ *ess are f\nd ev5 9 unciviliz$ c\ntries4 ,to "k ! rudim5ts ( ! game1 is to be able to ent] into at lea/ "o sport :5 travel+ 9 o!r c\ntries4 ,we trace ! orig9 ( *ess to ! anci5t ,sanscrit ,indians4 ,at t "t x 0 kn[n z *atauranga4 ,f ?is ^w1 ! ^w %atrang 0 evolv$1 develop+ sl[ly into our mod]n ^w *ess4 ,x 0 9 ! sixte5? c5tury t ! surface ( ! *ess-bo>d 0 *equ]$ black & :ite4 ,j z ! capture ( a k+ by enemies meant ! t]m9at+ ( 8 rule ( ! k+dom 9 ^? days1 ! capture ( ! k+ on ! *ess-bo>d to-day t]m9ates ! game4 ,x is int]e/+ to note t ! diff]5t pieces us$ 9 ! game ( *ess all h _! orig9 9 anci5t hi/ory4 ,! game is "o ( ! mo/ int]e/+ 9 exi/5ce1 & ! man or woman :o does n already "k h[ to play x1 %\ld le>n h[ z soon z possible4 ,!re are num]\s au?orities :o are only too glad to tea* x4 ,! ho/ess :o plans a *ess-p>ty = h] gue/s %\ld arrange a suffici5t numb] ( small tables 9 ! draw+-or reception-room4 ,usually c(fee & waf]s are s]v$ z refre%m5t 9 ! aft]noon2 b if ! p>ty is held 9 ! ev5+1 x usually t]m9ates 9 a cold midnight supp]4 ,,bridge ,bridge is "o ( our mo/ popul> c>d-games--p>ticul>ly s among wom54 ,x is also "o ( ! mo/ int]e/+ indoor games ev] inv5t$1 & !re=e usually adopt$ by ! ho/ess :o wi%es to ent]ta9 h] gue/s = ! aft]noon or ev5+4 ,engl& greet$ ! orig9 ( bridge1 ab\t fifty ye>s ago1 ) great delight4 ,! game spe$ily became "o ( ! mo/ popul> ones 9 social circles4 ,p]haps if we exclude :i/1 bridge has tak5 a great] hold ^u ! popul> imag9ation ?an any o!r c>d-game ev] inv5t$4 ,! orig9 ( ! ^w bridge itself is buri$ 9 ! mi/s ( unc]ta9ty4 ,"s say t x comes f ! ,t>t> ^w bir9t* :i* means t[n-cri]4 ,o!rs cont5d t x comes f ! ,russian ^w birit* mean+ ,russian :i/4 ,b :atev] its orig91 ! ^w means a game ( su* utt] int]e/ & delight1 t x %\ld be well und]/ood & frequ5tly indulg$ 9 by ho/esses & _! gue/s4 ,!re are two k9ds ( bridge2 "o1 kn[n z ,auction ,bridge is = ?ree play]s4 ,ord9>y bridge is = f\r play]s4 ,9 ! =m] game1 "o dep5ds l>gely ^u luck4 ,b skill is a v necess>y requisite to ! "o :o wi%es to play & w9 9 ord9>y bridge4 ,writ]s on games decl>e t ,auction ,bridge is m ( a gambl+ game ?an ord9>y bridge4 ,b ho/esses :o d n favor gambl+ 9 any =m1 _h bett] *oose *ess z _! popul> game1 = x is ! only game f :i* ! elem5t ( *ance is entirely abs5t4 ,b bridge1 p]haps by virtue ( its v elem5t ( *ance1 is to-day "o ( ! mo/ popul> indoor games4 ,! ho/ess :o invites fri5ds to a bridge-p>ty %\ld provide suffici5t c>d tables = ! purpose4 ,if ! p>ty consi/s entirely ( ladies1 x is usually held 9 ! aft]noon & light refre%m5ts are s]v$4 ,if m5 jo9 ! p>ty x is usually held 9 ! ev5+ & t]m9ates 9 a midnight supp]4 ,,billi>ds ,,& ,,croquet ,!re seems to be "s v intimate connection betwe5 croquet & billi>ds4 ,b :ile croquet is a v old game & n[ rapidly laps+ into disuse1 billi>ds is a comp>atively new "o enjoy+ v wide popul>ity4 ,! fact t small billi>d tables are be+ made to fit conv5i5tly into ! draw+-room at home1 proves t ! mod]n ho/ & ho/ess recognize ! popul>ity ( ! game4 ,croquet1 we f9d f /udy+ ! hi/ory ( games1 0 play$ 9 ! ?irte5? c5tury4 ,billi>ds1 :i* we speak ( z be+ comp>atively new1 0 kn[n 9 ! sev5te5? c5tury1 = does n ,%akespe>e h ,cleopatra say 9 ,antony's tempor>y abs5ce3 ,let u to billi>ds3 ,come1 ,*>mian4 ,billi>ds is a game t l5ds itself to bett+4 ,:ile ?is may be p]missible 9 a public billi>d place1 x is n good =m 9 a private home :]e ! ho/ess invites a few fri5ds to enjoy ! game ) h]4 ,%e %\ld n invite _m p unless %e has sev]al tables to place at _! disposal4 ,croquet is play$ on ! lawn4 ,hidd5 9 ! =gott5 orig9 ( billi>ds1 !re mu/ be "s connection betwe5 ! gre5 lawn ( croquet & ! gre5 baize clo? ( ! billi>d table4 ,croquet is play$ ) mallets & balls1 v mu* on ! same ord] z ! game ( billi>ds4 ,! game ( croquet is d]iv$ f ! same s\rce z hockey4 ,! old ,fr5* ^w hoquet1 mean+ a crook$ /ick has v mu* ! same mean+ z ! ^w croquet4 ,bo? are excell5t outdoor sports t gue/s at a h\se p>ty w f9d enjoyable & int]e/+4 ,"o ho/ess we "k1 :o is a billi>d en?usia/1 has six tables 9 h] billi>d room1 z %e calls x1 :]e %e ent]ta9s sev]al gue/s almo/ e aft]noon4 ,on ! wall is a l>ge picture %[+ two /ately old g5tlem5 play+ a game ( billi>ds1 & b5ea? x 9 bold h&-lett]+1 ! foll[+ bit ( v]se f ,cotton's book1 ,! ,compleat ,game/]3 ,billi>ds f ,spa9 at fir/ d]iv$ its "n1 ,bo? an +5i\s & a cleanly game4 ,"o game/] leads 7! table gre5 z grass7 ,& ea* l w>riors1 /rive to ga9 ! ,pass4 ,,outdoor ,,games ,at g>d5 p>ties1 h\se p>ties1 & lawn p>ties1 !re is always ! ne$ = int]e/+1 amus+ games t w af=d ent]ta9m5t = ! gue/s4 ,! ho/ess :o kn[s ! v>i\s games t are popul> among ! y\ng] & old] sets1 w be able to sp5d _m jolly1 pleasant morn+s & aft]noons ) h] gue/s4 ,n only = ! ho/ess & h] gue/1 b = e man or woman :o loves games & sports1 :o enjoys be+ outdoors1 !re are sports t are z enjoyable z !y are heal?-build+4 ,!re c be no?+ m delightful1 on a ,saturday aft]noon1 ?an to g out on ! l9ks & enjoy a good game ( golf4 ,& !re c be no?+ m invigorat+ to ! tir$ ho/ess ?an a brisk game ( lawn t5nis on a sunny aft]noon4 ,to ! spl5did outdoor games ( ,am]ica1 our "y wom5 owe _! li!1 graceful bodies & _! gl[+ good heal?2 & our "y m5 owe _! well-knit =ms & muscul> /r5g?4 ,no appeal c be too /rong 9 enc\rag+ p to indulge m freely 9 outdoor sports--& especially p :o sp5d a great deal ( _! "t 9 bus9esses t conf9e !m to (fices4 ,,lawn ,,t5nis ,t5nis is always popul> & always int]e/+4 ,^? :o love ! game w enjoy a bit ( ! hi/ory ( its orig9 & ( its developm5t 9 rec5t ye>s4 ,x is n a new game4 ,! exact date ( its orig9 is n kn[n1 & p]haps nev] w be1 b we d "k t x 0 import$ into ,engl& f ,france at a v e>ly date4 ,orig9ally x 0 call$ palmplay because ! palm 0 us$ to ca/ ! ball to ! o!r side4 ,& in/ead ( ! net1 a mud-wall 0 us$ to sep>ate ! two sides4 ,! game ( t5nis fl\ri%$ 9 ! "t ( ,joan ( ,arc1 = we f9d h] namesake1 a c]ta9 ,jean ,m>got1 born 9 #adba1 call$ ! amazon ( m$ieval t5nis by ,paul ,monckton 9 8 book1 ,pa/imes 9 ,times ,pa/4 ,he tells u also t %e c\ld play ball bett] ?an any man 9 ,france4 ,9 ! fifte5? c5tury1 t5nis fell into disrepute because ( ! l>ge am\nt ( bett+4 ,b gradually1 ) ! pass+ ( ! ye>s & ! developm5t ( ! t5nis c\rts1 x once m came into its own1 & soon we f9d t x _h become s popul> & fa%ionable t x ?reat5$ to eclipse ev5 cricket1 ,engl&'s mo/ popul> outdoor game4 ,!n once aga9 x lapses into neglect1 n to return to ! lawns & c\rts aga9 until #ahgd4 ,s9ce t ye>1 ,lawn ,t5nis has /eadily ris5 to ! ranks ( ! mo/ favor$ social game 9 ,am]ica & ,engl&4 ,9 ! pa/ few ye>s *anges & improvem5ts h be5 made & z ! game n[ /&s x is truly ! k+ ( games--z ,major ,w+field describ$ x m ?an two decades ago4 ,! ho/ess :o invites fri5ds to a t5nis game %\ld be sure t h] c\rts are 9 good condition4 ,x is h] duty to supply ! net1 balls & racquets1 al?\gh "s en?usia/s pref] us+ _! own racquets4 ,:e!r or n ! ho/ess jo9s 9 ! games h]self1 dep5ds entirely ^u h] p]sonal pref]5ce1 & ^u conv5i5ce4 ,usually1 h[ev]1 %e is expect$ to play at lea/ "o set4 ,,golf ,! fact t ,pepys1 9 8 well-kn[n di>y1 tells u t he saw ! ,duke ( ,york play+ golf 7kn[n !n z ,paille-,maille7 is suffici5t evid5ce ( ! antiquity ( ! game4 ,x is ( ,scot* orig91 be+ play$ 9 ! ,l[l&s z e>ly z #acjj4 ,! v words caddie1 l9ks & tee are ,scot*4 ,caddie is ano!r ^w = cad1 b ! mean+ ( t ^w has *ang$ consid]ably ) ! pass+ ( ! c5turies4 ,l9k means a b5d by ! riv] bank1 b lit]ally means a ridge ( l&4 ,tee means a m>k on ! gr\nd4 ,x seems t golf+ has "s /range *>m f :i* !re is no escap+ once "o has exp]i5c$ x4 ,to play golf & to le>n its fasc9ation1 is to love x always & be unable to =sake x4 ,james ,i & ,pr9ce ,h5ry 8 son1 7 ard5t golf]s4 ,*>les ,i 0 also a lov] ( golf1 & x is relat$ t ! news ( ! ,iri% ,rebellion 9 #afdb 0 br\ght to him :ile he 0 play+ at ! ,l9ks at ,lei?4 ,sir ,john ,f\lis1 ,e>l ,john ( ,montrose1 ,duncan ,=bes & ! ,duke ( ,hamilton are o!r notables ( hi/ory1 kn[n to h be5 addict$ to ! game4 ,9 #aged a ,golf ,club 0 f\nd$ 9 ,engl&1 pl$g+ !mselves to compete ea* ye> = a silv] cup4 ,9 #ahfc ano!r ,royal ,golf ,club 0 f\nd$ ( :i* ! ,pr9ce ( ,wales 0 elect$ ,capta94 ,! m9utes & records ( ?is club reveal _m int]e/+1 & (ttimes amus+1 cu/oms t presag$ ! v cu/oms practic$ by golf-lov]s to-day4 ,"o reason :y golf is s popul> is t x is a sport 9 :i* old & "y c jo9 on an equal foot+4 ,9 ?is mann] x is unlike hockey or o!r simil> games1 :]e /r5g? & tra9+ are ess5tial4 ,b "o mu/ n h ! impression t golf c be play$ once or twice1 & !n kn[n & und]/ood ?or\ghly4 ,x is ! k9d ( game t mu/ be play$ en?usia/ically & con/antly2 & gradually "o becomes consci\s ( a fasc9ation t c h>dly be f\nd 9 any o!r game or sport4 ,!re is a di/9ct etiquette ( ! l9ks t %\ld be kn[n by ! ho/ess :o plans a golf+ p>ty1 & also by ev]yone :o plays ! game4 ,c\rtesy is "o ( ! unwritt5 laws ( ! l9ks4 ,x is consid]$ an unp>donable s9 to speak or move :5 wat*+ ano!r play] make a drive4 ,x is also unp>donable to attempt to play ?r\gh ! game ( p]sons :o are ahead on ! l9ks4 ,,"s ,,important ,,rules ,,ab\t ,,golf ,9 tee+-(f1 "o %\ld be q sure t "o's imm$iate pr$ecessors f ! tee are at lea/ two %ots 9 advance4 ,o!rwise !re is dang] ( injur+ o!r play]s2 & !re is also ! confusion ( driv+ balls among ^? ( ne>-by play]s4 ,if1 h[ev]1 a ball is driv5 into ! space ( gre5sw>d :]e ano!r play] is conc5trat+ ^u 8 ball an apology %\ld be made4 ,sometimes skillful & rapid play]s f9d _! progress ov] ! l9ks ret>d$ by play]s :o are sl[ & inaccurate4 ,^! sl[ play]s may be new at ! game1 or !y may pref] to play sl[ly4 ,at any rate1 x is good =m = ! rapid play]s to reque/ t !y be p]mitt$ to play ?r\gh ahead ( ! o!rs2 or x is /ill bett] = ! sl[ play]s !mselves1 :5 !y see t !y are ret>d+ o!rs1 to volunte] /epp+ aside :ile ! o!rs play ?r\gh4 ,a c\rtesy ( ?is k9d requires cordial ?anks4 ,putt+ is a delicate & difficult op]ation ^u :i* ! entire success ( ! game re/s4 ,spectators mu/ keep ?is 9 m9d :5 !y are on ! l9ks1 & !y mu/ n /& s close to ! play] t !y w int]f]e ) 8 conc5tration4 ,x is extremely bad =m to talk1 :isp] or %uffle ab\t :ile a play] is putt+1 & ^? :o d s are reveal+ _! lack ( c\rtesy & ( ! k ( ! correct etiquette ( sport4 ,,football ,we feel t a ^w ab\t football is necess>y1 n only because x is "o ( ! mo/ popul> ,am]ican sports1 b because m5 & wom5 alike enjoy wat*+ ! game4 ,at ! ,yale ,b[l1 :]e "s ( ! mo/ spectacul> football games are play$--& won--?\s&s ( m5 & wom5 f all ov] ! ,unit$ ,/ates ga!r e ye>4 ,l all o!r ball games1 football is bas$ on _m o!r games t _h _! orig9 9 m$ieval times4 ,x 0 only aft] ! game ( kick+ ! ball _h be5 introduc$ 9 ,engl&1 t x became a di/9ct sport kn[n z football4 ,s9ce !n x has fl\ri%$ & develop$1 until to-day x is z popul> z t5nis1 hockey1 baseball & golf4 ,football is a /r5u\s game4 ,9 ,engl& x 0 conf9$ l>gely to boys & "y m54 ,ev5 9 ,am]ica eld]ly m5 nev] play ! game1 b t is no reason :y !y _c wat* & enjoy x4 ,!re c be no etiquette prescrib$ = ! play]s 9 a football game beyond t incorporat$ 9 ! rules ( ! game & 9 ! g5]al laws ( good sportsman%ip4 ,b ! p :o are wat*+ ! game mu/ obs]ve a c]ta9 good conduct1 if !y wi% to be consid]$ entirely cultur$4 ,= in/ance1 ev5 ?\gh ! game becomes v excit+1 x is bad =m to /& up on ! seats & %\t words ( enc\ragem5t to ! play]s4 ,yet h[ _m1 :o claim to be entirely well-br$1 d ?is v ?+6 ,( c\rse x is p]missible to *e]2 b x mu/ be rememb]$ t !re are correct & incorrect ways ( *e]+4 ,noise is noise ev5 9 ! gr&/&1 & y\r l\d *e]+ is v likely to annoy ! p ar\nd y4 ,a brief h&-clapp+ is suffici5t applause = a good play or ev5 = a victory4 ,x is n necess>y to be boi/]\s4 ,& ?is holds true ( ! game ( baseball also1 :5 l\d *e]+ s]ves only to create confusion & disord]4 ,! well-mann]$ p]son is kn[n by 8 or h] calm conduct & g5tle mann]s :e!r x be 9 ! ballroom or at ! football game4 ,,automobile ,,etiquette ,) automobil+ enjoy+ its pres5t univ]sal popul>ity1 x is necess>y to add a few p>agraphs "h reg>d+ ! correct automobile etiquette4 ,= !re is an etiquette ( driv+1 & a v def9ite etiquette t mu/ be foll[$ by all :o wi% to be well-br$4 ,fir/ !re are ! rules by :i* ! driv] ( ! c> mu/ be gov]n$4 ,9 busy city /reets1 :]e !re are no traffic regulations to gov]n ! reckless driv]1 "o %\ld drive sl[ly & cauti\sly4 ,x is "t en\gh to drive spe$ily :5 ! op5 roads ( ! c\ntry are rea*$4 ,b x is inconsid]ate & selfi% to spe$ "o's c> along /reets :]e *ildr5 are likely to da% unexpect$ly 9 front ( ! c> or :]e p$e/rians are 9 dang] ( be+ ?r[n d[n4 ,a v unc\rte\s & unk9d habit is to s\nd "o's horn wildly1 = no o!r reason ?an to fright5 less =tunate p :o h to walk4 ,! horn on ! c> %\ld be us$ only to w>n p out ( ! road1 or :5 turn+ a dang]\s corn]4 ,x %\ld nev] be us$ to signal to a p]son t ! c> is wait+ outside = h]4 ,c>e %\ld be ex]cis$ 9 ! seat+ arrangem5t4 ,! c\rte\s ho/ & ho/ess take ! seats 9 ! c5t]1 leav+ ^? on ! outside = _! gue/s4 ,if ! ho/ is driv+1 ! front seat at 8 side is a place ( honor & %\ld be giv5 to a favor$ gue/4 ,! p inside ! c> also h "s rules ( good conduct to obs]ve4 ,x is bad =m to /& up 9 ! c>1 to s+ or %\t1 or to be 9 any way boi/]\s4 ,automobile p>ties (t5 spe$ along c\ntry roads %\t+ at ! top ( _! voices = no o!r reason ?an to attract att5tion--to be notic$4 ,! v fir/ rule ( good conduct tells u t ?is is utt]ly ill-br$4 ,x h>dly seems necess>y to w>n ! p :o are out motor+1 n to ?r[ refuse f ! c> on to ! road4 ,yet we (t5 see pap] bags & cig>ette boxes hurtl+ ?r\gh ! air 9 ! wake ( "s spe$+ c>4 ,?is is z bad =m z dropp+ a mat*-/ick on ! poli%$ draw+-room floor ( "o's ho/ess or home4 ,,automobile ,,p>ties ,"s ho/esses plan motor trips = _! gue/s4 ,if x is to be a long trip1 requir+ an ov]-night /op at a hotel1 ! invitations mu/ /ate cle>ly1 b tactfully1 :e!r !y are to be gue/s ?r\gh\t ! trip1 or only :ile 9 ! motor4 ,ord9>ily1 ! ho/ & ho/ess pay all exp5ses incurr$ :ile on ! trip4 ,g5tlem5 d n ent] ! c> until ! ladies h be5 com=tably seat$4 ,nei!r d !y smoke 9 ! c> )\t ask+ p]mission to d s4 ,a driv]1 :e!r he be ! ho/ himself or a hir$ *auffeur1 %\ld be sure t all ! gue/s are com=tably seat$ be=e />t+4 ,& he %\ld drive sl[ly to prev5t ! uncom=table jolt+ t usually results :5 a c> is driv5 at a great spe$4 ,ho/esses (t5 provide l95 du/]s & goggles = ^? ( _! gue/s :o desire !m4 ,x is wise1 also1 to include a few motor blankets1 9 case ! wea!r *anges & ! gue/s become *illy4 ,a consid]ate ho/1 or ho/ess1 w see t ! w9d-%ield1 top & side-curta9s are adju/$ to ! entire com=t ( all ! occupants ( ! c>4 ,! dress = an automobile p>ty is a sports suit ( "s s]viceable mat]ial t w n %[ du/ readily4 ,! hat %\ld be a small "o t w n int]f]e ) ! we>]'s com=t4 ,9 place ( a suit "o may we> a "o-piece dress & a coat b "o mu/ nev] we> light or flimsy mat]ials4 ,if !re is to be an ov]night /op & "o wi%es to we> a d9n] g[n %e mu/ h x made ( a /uff t w n wr9kle easily or %e mu/ be able to make arrangem5ts to h x press$4 ,:5 ! c> /ops & ! gue/s desc5d1 ! g5tlem5 %\ld leave fir/ & help ! ladies to desc5d4 ,if ! p>ty /ops = refre%m5ts1 ! *auffeur mu/ n be =gott54 ,x is a slight t is z un=givable & disc\rte\s z omitt+ to s]ve a gue/ 9 "o's d9+-room4 ,! *auffeur is z mu* entitl$ to c\rtesy z ! o!r memb]s ( ! p>ty4 ,( c\rse he does n expect to jo9 ! p>ty at _! table1 nor does he c>e to eat ) ! s]vants ( ! hotel4 ,! wise/ plan is = him to be s]v$ 9 ! regul> d9+-room ( ! hotel1 b at ano!r table except :5 ! hotel has special arrangem5ts to meet ?is condition4 ,x is always necess>y to take ! gue/s on an automobile p>ty back to ! place :]e !y />t$ f unless x is di/9ctly und]/ood f ! beg9n+ t "s o!r plan is to be pursu$4 ,:5 plann+ a motor p>ty consi/+ ( two or m c>s1 ! ho/ess %\ld be sure to arrange h] gue/s s t only cong5ial p w be 9 ea* c>4 ,x is nev] good =m to cr[d a c> ) m p ?an x c hold com=tably1 except 9 an em]g5cy4 ,c>eful driv+ %\ld be ! wat*word ( ev]yone :o owns a motor4 ,rememb] t ! /reets 7 n creat$ m]ely = ! own] ( ! automobile1 b = ! p$e/rian z well4 ,,rid+ ,horse-back rid+ is "o ( ! favorite outdoor sports ( m5 & wom54 ,:i* is z x %\ld be1 = n only is x excell5t = poise & grace1 b x is spl5did = ! heal?4 ,a g5tleman1 :5 rid+ ) a woman1 assi/s h] to m\nt & dism\nt4 ,?is is true ev5 ?\gh a groom accompanies !m4 ,9 assi/+ a lady to m\nt h] horse1 ! g5tleman fir/ takes ! re9s1 places !m 9 h] h& & !n (f]s 8 "r h& z a /ep on :i* to place h] foot1 unless %e pref]s to slip h] foot 9 ! /irrup & spr+ up to ! saddle unassi/$4 ,9 ?is case1 x is necess>y = him only to hold ! horse's head1 & to give h] ! re9s :5 %e is com=tably seat$ 9 ! saddle4 ,he does n m\nt 8 own horse until %e is m\nt$ & on h] way4 ,x is ! privilege ( ! woman rid] to set ! pace4 ,! g5tleman foll[s at h] side or slightly beh9d4 ,he goes ahead1 h[ev]1 to op5 gates or l[] f5ces t are too dang]\s = h] to jump4 ,9 dism\nt+1 he aga9 (f]s 8 aid1 hold+ h] horse & (f]+ 8 h& if x is necess>y to assi/ h]4 ,! lady dism\nts on ! left side4 ,at a hunt1 a g5tleman mu/ sacrifice a great deal ( ! sport ( ! *ase if !re is a woman 9 ! p>ty "u 8 c>e4 ,he mu/ ride v close to h]1 tak+ ! easie/ way & wat*+ out = h] com=t4 ,x is poor =m1 h[ev]1 = any woman to foll[ ! h\nds 9 a *ase unless %e is an accompli%$ rid]4 ,o!rwise %e is m]ely a h9drance to ! re/ ( ! p>ty1 & especially to ! man :o is accompany+ h]4 ,be k9d to y\r horse4 ,d n exhau/ x4 ,d n =ce x to climb /eep hills4 ,be c>eful ( h[ y use y\r spurs4 ,& try to rememb] t good old prov]b1 ,! be/ fe$ ( a horse is 8 ma/]'s eye4 ,ev5 9 ! mo/ cons]vative communities to-day wom5 we> bree*es in/ead ( ! heavy skirts ( a %ort "t back4 ,! cut dep5ds ^u ! prevail+ fa%ion b ! habit %\ld nev] be ( fla%+ mat]ial4 ,,ba?+ ,! etiquette ( ! bea* has n yet be5 settl$ & ! *ief po9t ( dispute is ! way a woman %\ld dress4 ,x is absurd = h] to we> a suit t w hamp] h] movem5ts 9 ! wat] b x is ev5 worse = h] to we> a skimpy g>m5t t makes h] ! obs]v$ ( all obs]v]s z %e p>ades up & d[n ! bea*4 ,!re is no set rule z to :at k9d ( suit "o %\ld we> = "o p]son c we> a ?+ t makes ano!r ridicul\s if n actually vulg>4 ,a well-br$ woman is h] own be/ guide & %e w no m (f5d aga9/ mode/y at ! bea* ?an %e w 9 ! draw+-room4 ,,sports ,,clo!s ,,9 ,,g5]al ,com=t & /yle %\ld be attractively comb9$ 9 sports clo!s ) ! emphasis on com=t4 ,practicability %\ld nev] be sacrific$ to fa%ion1 & h[ev] beautiful !y may be to look at1 an automobile coat t _c /& du/1 a ba?+ suit t _c /& wat] & a hik+ outfit t _c /& we> are m]ely ridicul\s4 ,!re are ?ree que/ions t ! man or woman %\ld fir/ ask !mselves be=e buy+ a sports outfit4 ,fir/1 ,is x com=table8 ,next1 ,is x practical8 ,& la/1 ,is x pleas+8 ,,"p ,,iv ,i w\ld r h a "y fell[ too mu* ?an too little dress$2 ! excess on t side w we> (f1 ) a little age & reflection2 b if he is neglig5t at tw5ty1 he w be a slov5 at =ty & intol]able at sixty4 ,dress y\rself f9e :]e o!rs are f9e1 & pla9 :]e o!rs are pla92 b take c>e always t y\r clo!s are well made & fit y1 = o!rwise !y w give y a v awkw>d air4 --,*e/]field4 ,,*apt] ,i ,,spee* ,"o is judg$ fir/ by 8 dress b ?is judgm5t is n f9al4 ,a bett] index is 8 spee*4 ,x is said t "o c tell dur+ a conv]sation t la/s n long] ?an a summ] %[] :e!r or n a man is cultivat$4 ,(t5 x does n take ev5 s long1 = a rauc\s tone ( voice & grossly ungrammatical or vulg> expressions br& a man at once z beyond ! pale ( polite society4 ,no po9t ( social etiquette is q s valuable z ?is "o ( spee*4 ,z "o goes =? he is weigh$ 9 ! balance & if he is f\nd want+ "h he is quietly dropp$ by ref9$ & cultur$ p1 & ne>ly always he is left wond]+ :y ) 8 diamonds & 8 motors & 8 money he yet _c f9d entree into ! inn] circles :]e he w\ld mo/ l to be4 ,money does n buy ev]y?+4 ,if x 7 possible = x to d s !re w\ld be no prov]b to ! effect t x takes ?ree g5]ations to make a g5tleman4 ,& ! prov]b itself is n m ?an half true4 ,if ! attitude ( m9d is t ( "o :o hone/ly wants to develop himself to ! highe/ possible po9t1 m5tally1 morally1 & spiritually1 x c be done 9 mu* less ?an a s+le g5]ation4 ,( c\rse1 mu* dep5ds ^u "o's def9ition ( :at con/itutes a g5tleman b = ! purpose ( ?is book we mean a man ( education1 high pr9ciples1 honor1 c\rtesy1 & k9dness4 ,,conv]sation ,!re is an old ,italian prov]b t says1 ,he :o has a tongue 9 8 head c g all ! _w ov]4 ,b x is n en\gh m]ely to h a tongue 9 "o's head4 ,t tongue mu/ h a c]ta9 di/9ct appeal be=e x becomes ! weapon be=e :i* all ! b>ri]s ( social success vani%4 ,we h all he>d ! expression1 ,! magic p[] ( words4 ,is x a magic p[]8 ,or to be m explicit1 is conv]sation an art or a gift8 ,! answ] mu/ c]ta9ly be an art1 = nature nev] gives t :i* /udy accompli%es4 ,& by /udy y c become a ma/] ( spee*--y c make words a v]itable tor*1 illum9at+ y & y\r surr\nd+s4 ,b words alone mean v little4 ,x is ! gr\p+ ( words1 expressions1 phrases2 ! comb9ation ( ?\ghts t make real conv]sation4 ,9 ! beg9n+ ( ! _w1 said ,xan!s1 primitive man 0 cont5t$ to imitate ! language ( ! animals4 ,b z we /udy ! evolution ( human nature1 we f9d t man 0 n long cont5t to imitate ! s\nds ( ! animals 9 ! =e/s4 ,he f\nd ! ne$ to express himself1 8 s5sations1 8 ?\ghts1 9 m def9ite & satisfactory mann]4 ,he want$ to %>e 8 joys ) 8 neighbors1 & he want$ to tell o!rs ab\t 8 sorr[s4 ,& s1 nature 9 h] wise judgm5t1 decre$ t he %\ld speak1 & 9 8 spee* %\ld convey 8 ?\ghts & ideas to ^? :o li/5$4 ,we d n ?9k ( ^! ?+s to-day :5 we *att] aimlessly among ourselves1 c>+ little :e!r or n we make ! mo/ ( t wond]ful p[] be/[$ ^u u4 ,yes1 spee* is a p[]4 ,x is a mo/ effective weapon1 n only to social success1 b to ! v success ( life1 if "o does n ignore ! p[] ( its influ5ce4 ,& t is ! purpose ( ! foll[+ p>agraphs--to help y realize & pr(it by ! p[]s ( spee* & conv]sation4 ,,! ,,*>m ,,( ,,correct ,,spee* ,x is /range1 b true1 t ! _s ( conv]sation is (t5 m important ?an ! ideas express$4 ,?is is especially true 9 social circles4 ,s9ce spee* is nev] us$ 9 solitude1 we may take x = grant$ t ! spok5 ^w is an expression ( ! long+ = human sympa?y4 ,?us1 x is a great accompli%m5t to be able to ent] g5tly & agreeably into ! moods & feel+s ( o!rs1 & to cultivate ! feel+s ( sympa?y & k9dness4 ,e>ly 9 ! sev5te5? c5tury ! caus]ie 7*at7 0 highly e/eem$ 9 ,france4 ,?is 0 a meet+1 at ! ,hotel ,ramb\illet1 ( ! great nobles1 lit]>y p1 & intellig5t & brilliant wom5 ( ,france1 ga!r$ toge!r = ! def9ite purpose ( conv]sation--( *att+4 ,among ^! p1 repres5t+ ! highe/ intellectual class 9 ,france at ! "t1 !re develop$ ! ta/e = daily talks--! t5d5cy ( :i* 0 t[>d pr(\nd1 ref9$ & elegant int]c\rse accord+ to ! /&>ds ( t day1 & ! criticisms (f]$ by ! memb]s _h a c]ta9 influ5ce on ! mann]s & lit]ature ( ! epo*4 ,_m ye>s h pass$ s9ce ^? days ( h>moni\s ga!r+s1 b we m5tion !m "h to draw ! comp>ison betwe5 ^? delightful ga!r+s ( long ago1 & our own draw+-rooms & social circles :]e brilliant m5 & wom5 ga!r & conv]se on topics ( imm$iate int]e/4 ,if "o has imag9ation1 a /rik+ simil>ity c be notic$ betwe5 ! two4 ,!re is a c]ta9 *>m 9 correct spee*1 a c]ta9 beauty 9 correct conv]sation4 ,& x is well wor? /riv+ =4 ,,c\rtesy ,,9 ,,conv]sation ,a ,cr[ ,indian once said to ,dr4 ,l[ie1 ,y ,:ites %[ no respect to y\r si/]s4 ,y talk to !m4 ,o!r in/ances ( h[ respect & c\rtesy c be %[n 9 conv]sation1 is f\nd 9 ! traditions & pres5t-day practices ( o!r c\ntries4 ,9 ,*9a1 = in/ance1 a "y man w n introduce into conv]sation1 a topic :i* has n already be5 t\*$ ^u by 8 eld]s4 ,on ! ,fiji ,isl&s1 a woman does n talk to h] "m-9-law1 & among ! ,si\x1 a "y man does n talk at all unless someone else addresses him4 ,^! signs ( c\rtesy 9 conv]sation h a c]ta9 di/9ct significance 9 ! c\ntries :]e !y are practic$4 ,c\rtesy is ! v f\ndation ( all good conv]sation4 ,good spee* consi/s z mu* 9 li/5+ politely z 9 talk+ agreeably4 ,someone has said1 v wisely1 ,a talk] :o monopolizes ! conv]sation is by common cons5t insuff]able1 & a man :o regulates 8 *oice ( topics by ref]5ce to :at int]e/s n 8 he>]s b himself has yet to le>n ! alphabet ( ! art4 ,to be agreeable 9 conv]sation1 "o mu/ fir/ le>n ! law ( talk+ j en\gh1 ( li/5+ politely :ile o!rs speak1 & ( speak+ ( t 9 :i* "o's companions are mo/ int]e/$4 ,!re 0 a "t :5 bluntness ( mann] 0 excus$ on ! gr\nd t ! speak] 0 c&id1 frank1 outspok54 ,p us$ to pride !mselves ^u ! fact t 9 _! conv]sation !y _h spok5 ! tru?--& hurt "s "o4 ,to-day !re are c]ta9 recogniz$ c\rtesies ( spee*1 & k9dl9ess has tak5 ! place ( c&idness4 ,!re is no long] any excuse = y to say ?+s 9 y\r conv]sation t w cause discom=t or pa9 to anyone ( y\r he>]s4 ,"o %\ld nev] int]rupt unless !re is a good reason = x & !n x %\ld be done ) apologies4 ,x is n c\rte\s to ask a great _m que/ions & p]sonal ones are always taboo4 ,"o %\ld be c>eful n to use ov] & ov] & ov] aga9 ! same words & phrases & "o %\ld n fall 9 ! habit ( ask+ p to repeat _! rem>ks4 ,argum5t %\ld be avoid$ & contradict+ is always disc\rte\s4 ,:5 x seems t a heat$ disagreem5t is ab\t to ensue x is wise tactfully to direct ! conv]sation into o!r *annels z soon z x c be done )\t too abrupt a turn1 = to j]k ! talk f "o topic to ano!r = ! obvi\s purpose ( swit*+ someone (f ! track is 9 itself v rude4 ,let y\r prov]b be1 ,talk well1 b n too mu*4 ,,! ,,voice ,rusk9 said1 ,vulg>ity is indicat$ by co>s5ess ( language4 ,by language he meant n only words & phrases1 b co>s5ess ( voice4 ,!re c be no?+ m *>act]i/ic ( good bre$+ ?an a s(t1 well-modulat$1 pleas+ voice4 ,?is quotation f ,demo/h5es is only ano!r way ( say+ x3 ,z a vessel is kn[n by ! s\nd :e!r x is crack$ or n1 s m5 are prov$ by _! spee*es :e!r !y be wise or fooli%4 ,conv]sation %\ld be lively )\t noise4 ,x is n well-br$ to be demon/rative 9 action :ile speak+1 to talk l\dly1 or to laugh boi/]\sly4 ,conv]sation %\ld h less emphasis1 & m quietness1 m dignifi$ calmness4 ,"s ( u are s eag]1 9 our det]m9ation to be agreeable 9 conv]sation1 to dom9ate ! entire room ) our voice1 t we =get ! laws ( good conduct4 ,& we wond] :y p consid] u bores4 ,don't be afraid to op5 y\r m\? :5 y talk4 ,fir/ "k :at y want to say1 be sure t x is wor? say+1 & !n say x calmly1 confid5tly1 ?r\gh y\r m\? & n ?r\gh y\r nose4 ,too _m p talk ?r\gh tightly clos$ tee? & !n wond] :y p don't und]/& !m4 ,enunciate cle>ly & give to y\r v[els & consonants ! prop] resonance4 ,ano!r mi/ake to avoid is rapid speak+4 ,to talk sl[ly & delib]ately1 is to enhance ! pleasure & beauty ( ! conv]sation4 ,rapidity 9 spee* results 9 indi/9ctness1 & indi/9ctness leads inv>iably to monotony4 ,,ease ,,9 ,,spee* ,!re are two languages ( spee*--voice & ge/ure4 ,voice appeals to ! e>1 ge/ure to ! eye4 ,x is an agreeable comb9ation ( ! two t makes conv]sation pleasant4 ,a really well-br$ man1 a writ] once said1 w\ld speak to all k+s 9 ! _w ) z little conc]n & z mu* ease z he w\ld speak to y4 ,confusion is ! enemy ( eloqu5ce4 ,self-re/ra9t mu/ be develop$ be=e "o c hope to be ei!r a good conv]sationali/ or a social success4 ,to create a pleasant1 h>moni\s atmosph]e1 & at ! same "t to make "o's ideas c>ry conviction1 "o mu/ talk ) ease & calm assurance4 ,try to be naturally c\rte\s & cordial 9 y\r spee*4 ,x is a mi/ake to we> y\r feel+s on y\r sleeve & res5t ev]y?+ t ev]yone else says t does n please y4 ,to become quickly excit$1 to speak h>%ly & s>ca/ically is to sacrifice "o's dignity & ease ( mann]4 ,"k :at y want to say1 be sure y und]/& x1 & :5 y say x1 be op5 = criticisms or sugge/ions f ^? ar\nd y4 ,d n become flu/]$ & excit$ m]ely because someone else does n agree ) y4 ,rememb] t ,hom] said1 ,! tongue speaks wisely :5 ! s\l is wise1 & surely ! s\l c be wise only :5 "o is entirely calm1 self-confid5t & at peace ) all ! _w6 ,,local ,,phrases ,,& ,,mann]isms ,x is n always easy to drop ! local phrases1 colloquial expressions & mann]isms to :i* "o has be5 accu/om$ = a long "t4 ,yet good society does n tol]ate ^! errors 9 spee*4 ,= !y are errors1 accord+ to ! /&>ds ( educat$ m5 & wom54 ,to use su* phrases z ,h[ 0 t :5 y mean ,:at 0 t or ,h['s ?+s :5 y mean ,h[ are y are prov9cialisms :i* h no place 9 ! cultur$ draw+-room4 ,"o mu/ drop all bad habits ( spee* be=e claim+ ! good ,engli% :i* is a passport into good society4 ,mann]isms 9 spee* are evid5t 9 nasal expression & muffl$ words1 spok5 ?r\gh half-clos$ tee?4 ,we 7 n meant to speak 9 t unbeautiful mann]1 nor 7 we meant to ge/iculate wildly z "s ( our draw+-room orators p]si/ 9 do+--to ! amusem5t ( ev]yone else conc]n$4 ,:5 y ent] ! _w ( good society1 drop all y\r colloquial phrases & mann]isms beh9d4 ,,importance ,,( ,,vocabul>y ,simple expression has ! same advantage ov] fl[]y language z a simple & arti/ic room has ov] a room fill$ ) gaudy1 inh>moni\s embelli%m5ts4 ,"o is effective1 ! o!r defective4 ,& yet to express ideas simply & correctly1 ) a reg>d = poli% & poise1 "o mu/ h a good comm& ( ! language4 ,make a resolve1 "r n[1 t y w nev] use a =eign ^w :5 y c give its mean+ 9 ,engli%4 ,& also det]m9e n[1 def9itely1 t no matt] h[ popul> slang becomes 9 ! less ref9$ circles ( society1 y w nev] use x because y "k t x is ! badge ( vulg>ity4 ,!re is no?+ q z beautiful z good1 simple ,engli%1 :5 x is spok5 correctly4 ,to "k ! "r ^w 9 ! "r place1 to "k its correct pronunciation & spell+1 !re is no?+ m valuable ?an a good /&>d diction>y4 ,if y hav5't "o--a new revis$ edition--get "o "r away4 ,y c n hope to become a pleas+ conv]sationali/ until y own & use a good diction>y4 ,an excell5t way to increase y\r vocabul>y & p]fect y\r spee* is to talk less1 & li/5 politely :ile o!rs lead ! conv]sation4 ,!re's a lot ( tru? 9 t old maxim1 ,spee* is silv]1 b sil5ce is gold6 ,,int]rupt+ ,,! ,,spee* ,,( ,,o!rs ,x 0 m5tion$ previ\sly t ! ,si\x y\? does n speak until he is fir/ spok5 to4 ,?is is also true ( ! "y ,arm5ian woman4 ,%e w\ld be horrifi$ at ! idea ( address+ a woman old] ?an h]self1 unless fir/ spok5 to4 ,_m o!r c\ntries obs]ve ^! c\rtesies ( spee*1 ) a :olesome effect ^u ! g5]al culture ( ! p4 ,h[ (t51 "h 9 our own c\ntry1 ev5 9 ! mo/ highly cultivat$ society1 d we he> a man or woman c>elessly int]rupt ! conv]sation ( ano!r1 p]haps an old] p]son1 )\t s mu* z an apology6 ,x is bad =m1 to say ! lea/1 b x is also di/9ctly rude4 ,no p]son ( good bre$+ w int]rupt ! conv]sation ( ano!r no matt] h[ />tl+ & rem>kable an idea he may h4 ,x w be j z />tl+ & rem>kable a few m9utes lat]1 & ! speak] w h ga9$ poise & confid5ce 9 ! "t t he waits = ! *ance to speak4 ,:isp]+ 9 company is ano!r bad habit t mu/ be avoid$4 ,! draw+-room or reception room is no place = p]sonal secrets or hidd5 bits ( gossip4 ,! man or woman commits a s]i\s brea* 9 good conduct by draw+ "o or two p]sons aside & :isp]+ some?+ to !m4 ,,tact ,,9 ,,conv]sation ,be c>eful n to give too /rong an expression ( y\r likes & dislikes4 ,to ma/] ?is important po9t ( spee*1 x is wise to exam9e c>efully & frankly all y\r op9ions be=e express+ !m 9 words4 ,x is necess>y t y und]/& y\rself1 be=e y are able to make o!rs und]/& y4 ,9 c>ry+ on a conv]sation 9 a public place be sure to keep ! voice modulat$ & d n m5tion ! names ( p ab\t :om y are talk+ 9 su* a way t anyone ov]he>+ ! conv]sation by *ance c\ld id5tify !m4 ,x is be/ to avoid all p]sonal talk :5 "o is 9 public4 ,! p]son :o is always try+ to set o!r p "r does n use tact4 ,if !y want$ assi/ance1 !y w\ld probably ask4 ,p are s5sitive1 & !y d n l to h _! %ortcom+s comm5t$ ^u by o!rs4 ,ask que/ions only if y are gift$ ) great tact4 ,o!rwise y are b\nd to create emb>rass+ situations4 ,if y d ask que/ions1 make !m ( a g5]al "*1 r ?an p]sonal4 ,b nev] be curi\s1 because p res5t inquisitiv5ess--& rightly s1 = x is a v undesirable trait to h1 & ea* p]son has a "r to privacy4 ,nev] talk = m]e talk+'s sake4 ,speak only :5 y h some?+ to say1 & !n talk quietly1 delib]ately & ) s9c]ity4 ,nev] criticize1 antagonize or moralize--& y\r company w be s\ght by ev]yone4 ,,"s ,,important ,,in=mation ,if y mumble ov] y\r words & h difficulty 9 pron\nc+ cle>ly1 y w f9d x a great help to talk v sl[ly & take deep brea?s betwe5 ea* two or ?ree words4 ,= /amm]+1 deep brea?+ is also sugge/$ be=e utt]+ ! words ^u :i* "o is mo/ likely to come to grief4 ,self-consci\sness is ! result ( exagg]at$ humility4 ,if y conc5trate ^u :at y are say+1 & =get all ab\t h[ y are say+ x1 y w =get y\r %yness4 ,respect y\rself1 h confid5ce 9 y\rself--& n]v\sness & %yness 9 conv]sation w vani%4 ,lisp+ is a matt] ( defective spee*1 & al?\gh read+ al\d & dramatic recitations help1 x is be/ to consult a speciali/ if ord9>y me?ods fail to prev5t x4 ,su* habits z hesitation1 c\gh+1 or grop+ = a ^w1 are (t5 =ms ( n]v\sness & a little w-p[] ex]t$ 9 ! "r direction may easily control !m4 ,above all1 be simple & be s9c]e4 ,let int]e/ 9 y\r subject l5d animation to y\r face & mann]4 ,d n attempt to make y\rself appe> brilliant & inspir$1 = y w only succe$ 9 mak+ y\rself ridicul\s4 ,be mode/1 pleasant1 agreeable & sympa!tic1 & y w f9d t y w9 ! imm$iate response ( y\r audi5ce1 :e!r x consi/s ( two p or two hundr$ p4 ,,:at ,,to ,,talk ,,ab\t ,9 ?is beautiful c\ntry1 fill$ ) *>m+ woodl& sc5es1 l&m>ks ( int]e/1 museums1 s*ools1 monum5ts1 libr>ies1 !re is no excuse = ! man or woman :o f9ds t he or %e has no?+ to talk ab\t4 ,9 ! newspap]s e day1 9 books1 plays1 op]as1 ev5 9 ! adv]tisem5ts & po/]s1 !re is mat]ial = int]e/+ conv]sation4 ,try x ! next "t y meet "s fri5ds & y f9d t conv]sation lags4 ,talk ab\t some?+1 any?+1 until y get />t$4 ,talk ab\t ! sunset y saw la/ night1 or ! little crippl$ boy :o 0 sell+ newspap]s4 ,z long z x is some?+ ) a t\* ( human int]e/ 9 x1 & if y tell x ) ! desire to please r ?an impress1 y\r audi5ce w be int]e/$ 9 y\r conv]sation4 ,b to rema9 quiet1 answ]+ only :5 y are spok5 to1 & all[+ conv]sation to die ea* "t x rea*es y1 is a feature ( conduct belong+ only to ! ignorant & dull4 ,!re are _m pleasant & agreeable ?+s to talk ab\t--argum5t & discussion h no place 9 ! social draw+-room--& !re is no reason :y y _c f9d !m & make use ( !m4 ,if y are =getful1 & some:at %y 9 ! company ( o!rs1 x might be well to jot d[n & commit to memory any int]e/+ bit ( in=mation or news t y feel w\ld be wor?y ( repetition4 ,x may be an int]e/+ little /ory1 or a clev] rep>tee1 or "s amus+ incid5t--b :atev] x is1 make ! appeal g5]al4 ,x is a mi/ake to talk only ab\t ^? ?+s t int]e/ y2 :5 ,mat!w ,arnold 0 once ask$ :at 8 favorite topic = conv]sation 01 he answ]$1 ,t 9 :i* my companion is mo/ int]e/$4 ,make t y\r ideal1 & y c h>dly help becom+ an agreeable & pleas+ conv]sationali/4 ,,*apt] ,,ii ,,dress ,,! ,,fir/ ,,impression ,! two mo/ important guides to "o's p]sonality are "o's appe>ance & "o's mann] ( spee*4 ,c5turies ( exp]i5ce h %[n t by means ( ^! "o may almo/ )\t exception get at lea/ a g5]al idea ( ! sort ( p]son t lies back ( !m4 ,dress is ! mo/ important factor 9 ! fir/ impression4 ,an hone/ he>t may beat b5ea? ! ragg$ coat1 a brilliant intellect may rise above ! bright *eck$ suit & ! yell[ tie1 ! man 9 ! %abby suit may be a fam\s writ]1 ! girl 9 ! untidy bl\se may be an arti/ ( great promise b z a g5]al rule ! *ances are aga9/ x & su* p are dull1 flat1 /ale1 & unpr(itable bo? to !mselves & to o!r p4 ,l adv]tis+1 dress %\ld call att5tion n to itself b to ! p]son or product :i* x repres5ts s t p w say1 n1 ,:at an attractive g[n6 b ,:at a lovely woman6 n1 ,:at a well-dress$ man6 b1 ,i ?9k ,i %\ld l to "k t man4 ,!re is m room = orig9ality1 & by ! same tok5 = freaki%ness 9 woman's dress1 & !re=e ! great] responsibility is h]s4 ,h] clo!s %\ld belong to h] r ?an m]ely to ! era 9 :i* %e happ5s to be liv+4 ,?is means t !y mu/ be individual b x does n mean t !y %\ld be outl&i%4 ,aga9 ! gold5 rule ( ! ,greeks3 ,mod]ation 9 all ?+s4 ,! attitude ( a numb] ( p is express$ 9 ! old lim]ick3 ,z = looks ,i "k ,i'm no />1 ,!re are m5 bett] look+ by f>2 ,b my face ,i don't m9d x ,= ,i am beh9d x4 ,x's ! folks out 9 front t ,i j>4 ,x is wor? :ile n[ & !n to ?9k ( ! folks out 9 front1 & pity = !m1 if no o!r feel+1 %\ld inspire "o to be at all times z well dress$ z is )9 ! compass ( "o's means & ability4 ,,m5',s ,,dress ,9 ! morn+ :5 he goes out to bus9ess a man %\ld we> a pla9 s]viceable suit ( ! prevail+ cut4 ,if he is invit$ to an elaborate morn+ ent]ta9m5t he may we> ! regul> cutaway coat & ! usual accessories t g along ) x4 ,x is always be/ to foll[ ! local cu/oms ) reg>d to dress & x is absurd = "o man to appe> at a =mal morn+ affair 9 ! cutaway coat :5 he kn[s t all ( ! o!r g5tlem5 pres5t w be 9 _! simple bus9ess suits4 ,= =mal aft]noon affairs ! cutaway is worn :ile = d9n] 9 ! ev5+ full dress is prescrib$ z x is = any =mal ent]ta9m5t :i* takes place aft] six o'clock4 ,to in=mal g>d5 p>ties & o!r simil> affairs 9 ! aft]noon dur+ ! summ]1 flannels may be worn4 ,!re are special sport+ outfits design$ = ! man :o golfs1 plays t5nis1 rides or motors & ! be/ guide to all ( ^! is a reliable hab]da%]4 ,x is 8 bus9ess to keep up ) ! details ( dress & s9ce ^! are con/antly 9 process ( *ange x is obvi\sly impossible = a book ( etiquette to lay d[n precise rules z to :at %\ld be worn4 ,if a man is to escort a woman he %\ld adapt 8 co/ume to h]s4 ,if %e is to we> ev5+ dress he %\ld also1 & if he is 9 d\bt z to :e!r %e is to we> ev5+ dress or a simpl] co/ume1 he %\ld ask h]4 ,9 _m cases x re/s ) ! individual :i* %all be ! ord] ( ! day4 ,,wom5',s ,,dress ,! woman :o goes to bus9ess mu/ dress inconspicu\sly4 ,clean1 fre%ly laund]$ :ite %irt wai/s ) simple d>k skirts =m ! be/ ( outfits4 ,b ) laundry bills at prohibitive prices1 a sub/itute mu/ be f\nd = !m = ! girl 9 mod]ate circum/ances4 ,= ?is reason x is m s5sible to we> d>k s]ge1 silk1 or sat9 fa%ion$ into sev]ely simple frocks reliev$ p]haps by :ite l95 or org&ie coll>s & cuffs4 ,! woman :o ent]ta9s at home 9 ! morn+ we>s a simple frock ( ! sort 9 :i* %e may appe> on ! /reet4 ,simil>ly1 9 ! aft]noon unless ! occasion is an elaborate "o1 :5 %e may we> an elegant reception g[n or an in=mal tea1 :5 %e may we> "o ( ! exquisite creations especially design$ = su* occasions4 ,!re is a semi-ev5+ dress :i* may be worn to aft]noon affairs or to d9n] & to all ev5+ ent]ta9m5ts except v elaborate ones4 ,= ^! a woman's g[n %\ld be decollete & %\ld be ( beautiful mat]ial4 ,! color & design are at ! discretion ( ! individual b x is well to rememb] t ^? :i* are simple/ are mo/ effective4 ,x is trite to rem>k t a woman's cr[n+ glory is h] hair1 b x is true4 ,! mann] 9 :i* x is arrang$ %\ld dep5d ^u ! k9d ( co/ume %e is we>+4 ,only 9 ! ev5+ %\ld %e we> heavy b&eaux1 aigrettes1 etc4 ,scatt]$ ab\t else:]e 9 ^! volumes "u ! !at]1 etc41 m details are giv5 z to ! prop] k9d ( dress to we>4 ,rememb] ?is3 x is always bett] to be und]dress$ ?an to be ov]dress$4 ,,! ,,/ory ,,( ,,dress ,x is int]e/+ to note h[ closely ! hi/ory ( dress p>allels ! hi/ory ( civilization4 ,) ! awak5+ ( %ame came ! virtue ( mode/y4 ,) mode/y came ! desire = clo!s1 & clo!s br\ght ?\ghts ( high] ideals1 wid] desires ?an ^? m]ely ( ! animal4 ,out ( ! desire to cov] ! body grew ! love ( decoration1 ( beauty4 ,sl[ly1 ?r\gh ! ages1 z ! love ( beauty advanc$ & 0 cultivat$1 an arti/ic s5se develop$ :i* is ! v fl[] ( our civilization4 ,p]haps ! mo/ effective way to tell ! /ory ( dress is to make ?is v /rik+ comp>ison4 ,fir/ let u g back to ! "t ( ! prehi/oric cave-woman4 ,9 h] brea/ ! fir/ ?\ght ( %ame has /irr$1 & %e makes = h]self a cov]+--a dress4 ,%e makes x ( ! sk9 ( a newly kill$ animal4 ,x is raw & ugly & unpleasant4 ,b ! own] feels naught b pride 9 its own]%ip1 = x is a good sk91 imp]vi\s alike to ! ravages ( sun & ra9--& its /yle is exactly l t ( ! o!r wom5 9 ! tribe4 ,n[ let u /& = a mom5t on a corn] ( ,fif? ,av5ue1 ,new ,york's fam\s av5ue ( fa%ion4 ,we see a mod]n "y woman on h] way to ! !at]4 ,f ! tips ( h] ,fr5*-heel$ slipp]s to ! jaunty little hat on h] head1 %e is--p]fect4 ,h] g[n seems to express 9 e l9e ! /ory ( h] own p]sonality4 ,! color-s*eme might well h be5 inv5t$ by ,"m ,nature h]self4 ,! wrap %e we>s is ( sable furs--b h[ diff]5t f ! furs ( h] si/] ( anci5t days6 ,ea* sk9 is exquisitely gloss$ & dress$1 & ! :ole mat*$ to p]fection4 ,ano!r "y woman passes4 ,%e is diff]5tly attir$ 9 trig tailor$ suit & sm>t toque4 ,a bus9ess girl4 ,also p]fect4 ,& c\ntless o!rs1 /ream+ endlessly along ! wide av5ue1 m5 & wom51 defy+ 9 ! expression ( _! own ta/e & individuality1 ! decrees ( fa%ion2 int]pret+ silks1 cottons1 fabrics & furs to h>monize ) _! own p>ticul> p]sonalities1 & ! /ory ( civilization is told 9 ! clo!s !y we>4 ,,! ,,dawn ,,( ,,fa%ion ,x 0 ,c[p] :o said1 ,:ile ! _w la/s1 ,fa%ion w lead x by ! nose4 ,& really1 hasn't ,fa%ion be5 a /]n mon>* ?r\gh\t ! ages8 ,x comm&$ ! ,*9ese wom5 to h t9y feet--& t9y feet !y _h to h al?\gh x meant mon?s ( torture to ! "y *ild4 ,x comm&$ ! mon/r\s ruff ( ! ,elizabe?an p]iod1 & decre$ dignifi$ wigs = ! g5tlem5 ( ! ,colonial days4 ,x decid$ ^u ! mantle ( ! patri>*1 ! toga ( ! ,roman1 ! fez ( ! ,turk4 ,its endless :ims & vag>ies made ! /udy ( dress "o ( ! mo/ curi\s & fasc9at+ 9 ! _w4 ,h[ 0 ,fa%ion creat$1 y ask8 ,to answ] ?or\ghly1 we mu/ once m g back to ^? di/ant cave-man days :5 dress itself _h its inception4 ,at fir/ "o simple co/ume = bo? m5 & wom5 di/+ui%$ ea* tribe4 ,!re 0 no?+ diff]5t 9 ! way ! sk9s 7 ?r[n ov] ! body1 no embelli%m5ts to r5d] any "o co/ume diff]5t f ^? worn by ! o!rs4 ,ev5 at a relatively late date1 uni=mity ( dress among p ( "o race 0 l a national *>act]i/ic2 x 0 worn by all4 ,b sl[ly1 z ! t9y beam ( civilization /ruggl$ onw>d & upw>d1 !re came a desire = some?+ m ?an m]ely a protection aga9/ cold & ra94 ,!re came a v int5se desire = ornam5tation & p]sonal adornm5t4 ,?us we f9d m5 & wom5 9 ,c5tral ,africa decorat+ _! bodies ) /ripes ( pa9t1 & ^? :o 7 /ill m fa%ionable de=m+ !mselves ) mo/ weird s]ies ( cicatrices on _! bodies & faces4 ,9 ,new ,gu9ea we f9d wom5 :o d n indulge 9 clo?+ at all1 a%am$ to appe> 9 public )\t bracelets on _! arms & legs1 & ornam5ts on _! heads4 ,s int5se did ?is love ( ornam5t gr[ among wom51 t !y began to cov] _! bodies ) fur1 fea!rs1 %ell1 beads & c\ntless ornam5ts4 ,z late z ! ye> #djj ! primitive desire = self-adornm5t is evid5t4 ,9 t ye>1 x is record$ t ! wife ( ! ,emp]or ,honorius di$1 & :5 h] grave 0 reop5$ 9 #aedd1 ! gold5 tissues ( h] %r\d 7 melt$ & am\nt$ 9 weight to ?irty-six p\nds4 ,m5 & wom5 alike hesitat$ to ?9k = !mselves 9 ^? e>li] p]iods4 ,?us1 in/ead ( creat+ /yles = !mselves1 !y *ose ! easi] me?od ( imitat+ :at o!rs wore--*ang+ x j en\gh to meet ) _! own requirem5ts1 to satisfy _! own undevelop$ ta/es4 ,"o tribe copi$ :at ano!r wore1 *ang+ x only slightly accord+ to :im4 ,we f9d t man soon realiz$ t ! accumulation ( cov]+s on 8 body h9d]$ him 9 8 /r5u\s activities4 ,x 0 q natural1 !n1 t simplicity %\ld dom9ate 8 attire1 :ile to woman 0 left ! developm5t ( ! decorative art4 ,fa%ion 0 born--& x has rema9$ undisput$ rul] ev] s9ce4 ,,! ,,fa%ions ,,( ,,to-,,day ,x is n s mu* 9 ! ,fa%ion ( days gone by t we are int]e/$1 b 9 ! v delightful fa%ions ( to-day4 ,we all "k t ! love ( beauty is inh]5t 9 all wom5--j z ! pride ( p]sonal appe>ance is inh]5t 9 all m54 ,x is a h]itage br\ght d[n ?r\gh g5]ations ( sl[ly develop+ culture4 ,& we f9d to-day t ,fa%ion is ! means ( express+ individuality4 ,x w\ld inde$ be a ,h]culean task to attempt to write a disc\rse on ! ev]-*ang+ dictates ( ,fa%ion1 on ! con/ant :ims & vag>ies ( ,/yle4 ,ea* season br+s =? /rik+ new dress innovations--new color+s1 new drap]ies1 new l9es4 ,:at is 9 vogue to-day is ca/ aside to-morr[ z out-(-date4 ,9 ! _w ( good society1 dress plays an important "p 9 ! expression ( culture4 ,!re is a prop] dress = aft]noon we>1 & ano!r = ev5+ functions4 ,!re are c]ta9 co/umes = ! w$d+1 & o!rs = ! g>d5 fete4 ,! g5tleman we>s "o suit to bus9ess1 & ano!r to d9n]4 ,:]e civilization has rea*$ its highe/ po9t1 !re has dress & fa%ion rea*$ its f9e/ & mo/ exquisite developm5t4 ,b in/9ct c be c>ri$ to excess4 ,inh]5t love ( beauty c be s abus$ t x becomes a sign ( vanity4 ,fa%ion c be made a s]ies ( fads1 & /yle an excuse = ecc5tricities4 ,x is because m5 & wom51 & especially wom51 are s eag] to adopt any new /yle creation (f]$ to !m by ! va/ army ( au?orities1 s impati5t always = some?+ new1 new--t ! dress ( to-day has e>n$ ! c5sure ( /ud5ts ( sociology4 ,supply ! dem& has ev] be5 ! slogan ( ! produc]s1 :ile !y /rive 9 e way to increase ! dem&4 ,& yet1 ! /udy ( dress is a beautiful "o4 ,wom5 are nev] s lovely z :5 !y are dress$ well4 ,m5 are nev] s attractive z :5 _! g>m5ts are faultless4 ,!re is some?+ romantic 9 ! g[n & veil ( ! bride1 j z !re is some?+ delightfully refre%+ 9 ! sight ( a "y girl da9tily attir$ on a hot ,summ]'s day4 ,!re is poetry 9 dress1 j z !re is 9 a t[]+ ca!dral or 9 a well-mold$ /atue4 ,,h>mony ,,9 ,,dress ,"o ( ! mo/ important1 9 fact1 ! important pr9ciple ( dress is h>mony4 ,nature itself is a glori\s example ( all t is h>moni\s4 ,picture1 = in/ance1 ! delicate pansy1 ) its s(t bl5d ( gre5s & yell[s & purples4 ,?9k ( ! exquisite *9a-a/] ) its pale color+s ( violet & p9k4 ,& ! _m-hu$ ra9b[ t glorifies ! sky ) a sudd5 brilliance4 ,h[ utt]ly irresi/ible are ^! h>monies ( ,nature1 & h[ well we c all pr(it by h] example6 ,! _s ( ! mod]n dress seems to be m def9itely c5t]$ ar\nd s5sation ?an h>mony4 ,we see sport skirts worn ) high-heel$ %oes1 p9ks indulg$ 9 :]e navy blue or d>k br[n w\ld be m appropriate1 elaborate motifs & decorations :]e simplicity %\ld h be54 ,& we see wom51 prid+ !mselves ^u be+ fa%ionable1 we>+ g[ns t are pretty en\gh1 b t on !m are completely out ( h>mony4 ,! reason = ?is is t s _m wom51 & m5 too1 accept ! dictates ( ,fa%ion )\t /opp+ to det]m9e :e!r or n ^! new creations are suitable to _! own p>ticul> type4 ,!y d n realize t to be fa%ionable does n mean to foll[ consci5ti\sly e new fad1 b to adju/ ! prevail+ /yle to con=m ) ! l9es ( _! individual faces & =ms4 ,to illu/rate3 x is ridicul\s = ! v slim "y lady to we> a sev]e /raight-l9e frock simply because x is ! fa%ion1 b %e c adapt ! /raight-l9e effect to h] own figure1 & add a bit ( fluff9ess4 ,simil>ly1 ! /\t woman ne$ n we> trem5d\s1 volum9\s ruffles & fl\nces because ,fa%ion decrees t !y %all be worn1 b %e may ga9 ! desir$ effect by us+ !m 9 mod]ation4 ,:y is x t a g[n may look ?or\ghly beautiful on a manik91 b h an entirely diff]5t effect :5 y put x on8 ,because y h di/9ct p]sonality1 y h little peculi>ities ( l9e & color+ t require special consid]ation4 ,to select l9es t h>monize ) ! l9es ( y\r body1 colors t h>monize ) y\r own color+1 & /yles t h>monize ) y\r p>ticul> type1 is to dress well & attractively4 ,seek h>mony fir/--& /yle aft]w>d4 ,,importance ,,( ,,color ,:ite 0 made = brides1 b t is no reason :y we1 all ( u1 _c enjoy x 9 its cool da9t9ess1 y\?ful simplicity4 ,:ite may always be worn--by "y & old1 at p>ty & dance1 9 morn+ & aft]noon4 ,x is1 & always w be1 ! ideal color4 ,b ,fa%ion1 9 a diff]5t mood1 dem&s _m hues bo? s(t & brilliant4 ,& "h aga91 :e!r %e dictates pale p9k or vivid sc>let1 "o mu/ be guid$ by "o's own s5se ( ta/e & h>mony4 ,! colors ( ! dress mu/ bl5d ) ! natural colors if beauty is to be obta9$4 ,rem>kable effects1 z />tl+ly beautiful z ! somb] aft]gl[ ( ! sett+ sun1 c be obta9$ by ! correct use ( color4 ,x may be contra/ or h>mony--b !re mu/ be a p]fect bl5d4 ,to illu/rate = a few individual types3 ! sall[-complexion$ brunette mu/ nev] we> yell[1 ev5 ?\gh x is ! favorite color ( ! season1 = x br+s out m cle>ly ! yell[ lurk+ 9 ! sall[ness ( h] *eeks4 ,! p]son ) coal black hair mu/ avoid blues1 light & d>k2 ! colors t mo/ become h] are crimson1 orange1 d>k r$4 ,p9k is ! ideal color = ! blond woman ) w>m color+2 black = ! woman ) fair sk94 ,p9k & gre5 are = y\?2 purple & black are = age4 ,! o!r colors may be us$ accord+ to ! arti/ic s5se ( ! we>]4 ,9 select+ mat]ial = a g[n1 ! fa%ionable modi/e w fir/ consid] ! eyes ( ! lady :o is to we> x4 ,?\gh few b ! arti/ realize x1 ! eyes are ! keynote ( ! entire co/ume4 ,!y det]m9e :e!r ! dress %all be frivol\s or demure1 gay or somb]1 vivid or s(t4 ,! color ( ! hair1 also1 is important 9 decid+ ! color ( ! g[n itself4 ,! s(t colors--p9k1 gre51 violet1 blue--are admirably adapt$ to blue eyes & light hair :ile ! m brilliant colors are suitable = d>k eyes & black hair4 ,s l>ge a "p does color play 9 ! creat+ ( fa%ions t "o mu/ give x correspond+ly c>eful consid]ation 9 adapt+ x to "o's complexion & hair4 ,a wrong color has ! al>m+ prop5sity ( m>r+ ! beauty ( ! mo/ *>m+ g[n--ev5 z ! use ( ! "r color enhances ! beauty ( ! mo/ simple g[n4 ,) h>mony1 /yle & color ! g[n ne$s only ! f9al t\* ( p]sonality to make x p]fect4 ,& x is t ( :i* we are n[ go+ to speak4 ,,! ,,*>m ,,( ,,p]sonality ,dress is an index to "* z surely z a table ( cont5ts is an index to :at a book conta9s4 ,we "k by look+ at an ov]-dress$ "y p]son1 ) a mu*-b]uffl$ & ornam5t$ frock1 t %e is va94 ,we "k by glanc+ at a "y man :o we>s an orange tie1 *eck$ hat1 & twirls a bamboo cane1 t he is incl9$ to be j ! lea/ bit gay4 ,we "k by ! simple dignity ( an eld]ly woman's dress t %e is cons]vative & well-pois$4 ,9 ! clo!s we we> we reveal to ! _w ! /ory ( our ideals1 our pr9ciples4 ,if we are frivol\s1 our clo!s %[ x4 ,if we h a s5se ( ! arti/ic1 our clo!s %[ x4 ,if we are mode/1 bold1 va9 or pr\d ! clo!s we we> reveal x = all ! _w to see4 ,b ,dress *anges ! mann]s1 ,voltaire tells u4 ,x is true2 on ! /age ! begg> 9 8 tatt]$ clo!s acts & speaks & looks ! "p ( a begg>4 ,at dress rehe>sals he plays ! "p to p]fection1 b rehe>s+ 9 ord9>y /reet clo!s he is nev] q satisfactory4 ,some?+ seems to be miss+2 & t some?+ is p]sonality4 ,! same is true ( ! r /udi\s "y girl :o is also %y & retir+4 ,9 h] somb] clo!s1 %e is p]fectly cont5t 9 ! gloomy solitude ( h] /udy2 b dress$ 9 a filmy little frock ( lace & net1 ) h] hair y\?fully m>cell$1 ) buckl$ slipp]s on h] feet1 %e feels vaguely dissatisfi$4 ,%e wants to skip & dance & laugh & s+2 if %e knew psy*ology & ! p]sonality 9 dress1 %e w\ld be able to expla9 x to h]self 9 ?is mann]3 clo!s s affect ! m5tal outlook1 t ! we>] unconsci\sly adopts ! p]sonality portray$4 ,c y imag9e a ,"l ,*e/]ton 9 tatt]$ clo!s1 a ,que5 ,elizabe? 9 a limp calico frock1 a ,george ,wa%+ton 9 a conspicu\sly *eck$ suit8 ,unmi/akable qualities ( "* are disc]nible 9 ! clo!s we we>--& = t reason we %\ld be p>ticul>ly c>eful to make !m a true expression ( our p]sonality4 ,?us :5 y want to feel light-he>t$ & free f c>e1 we> delicate fabrics & bright hats4 ,:5 y want to be ?\ghtful & solemn1 we> heavy clo!s & l>ge1 droop+ hats4 ,adapt y\r clo!s to y\r moods1 or y\r moods to y\r clo!s2 b h always "o ideal 9 dress--y\rself4 ,?is holds equally true ( ! man4 ,:5 weighty bus9ess matt]s are to be att5d$ to1 d>k suits ) correspond+ly somb] ties & %irts attract ! desir$ mood ( s]i\sness4 ,= less s$ate1 ?\gh n less important1 occasions1 bright] attire makes "o =get ! c>es ( bus9ess & assume an air ( gayety4 ,"o may recl9e 9 a full-dress suit & /rive va9ly = re/2 b ! m]e putt+ on ( a smok+ jacket br+s an imm$iate feel+ ( relaxation4 ,z ,haliburton s po9t$ly said1 ,z soon z a p]son beg9s to dress 'l\d' 8 mann]s & conv]sation p>take ( ! same elem5t4 ,,gaud9ess ,,v]sus ,,good ,,ta/e ,/rik+ attractiv5ess1 r ?an simple good ta/e1 seems to be ! _s ( mod]n dress4 ,to see a beautiful "y woman 9 gaudy clo!s is z disappo9t+ z see+ a romantic old ,spani% tale b\nd 9 a *eap pap] cov]4 ,h[ mu* m delightful is a simple frock1 develop$ ( ri* mat]ials1 & boa/+ only deep s(t folds ( ! mat]ial z decoration1 ?an an elaborate g[n ) r[s & r[s ( imitation gold lace6 ,& yet1 we f9d t _m ( our mo/ fa%ionable wom51 prid+ !mselves on hav+ good ta/e1 select clo!s t are conspicu\s & gaudy r ?an ^? t are simple4 ,beauty ( mat]ial & excell5ce ( workman%ip %\ld be ! prim>y consid]ations 9 select+ a new g[n or suit4 ,if ornam5t is desir$1 ! laws ( h>mony1 contra/ & p]sonality %\ld be c>efully consid]$4 ,colors mu/ bl5d2 !re mu/ be no weird contra/s t j> badly on "o's arti/ic s5se4 ,gaud9ess1 aft] all1 defeats its own purpose1 = x expresses a c]ta9 vulg>ity4 ,! desire to attract att5tion has no place 9 ! _w ( good bre$+4 ,:o wi%es to be />$ at1 rem>k$ ^u1 op5ly admir$--if n ! ill-br$ woman1 ! sorely uncultivat$ man8 ,good ta/e f9ds expression 9 g[ns t are simple1 inconspicu\s1 yet well-cut & arti/ic2 9 suits t are quiet1 cons]vative & well-tailor$4 ,& ! good ta/e f9ds its rew>d 9 ! g5u9e admiration & ke5 appreciation ( o!rs4 ,,extravagance ,,! ,,greate/ ,,vulg>ity ,t is :at ,dr4 ,crane says--,dr4 ,crane1 :o has /udi$ mann]s 9 all _! aspects4 ,extravagance is ! greate/ vulg>ity4 ,h[ true x is6 ,h[ _m ( u adju/ ! exp5diture = clo!s 9 our h\seholds1 n by :at we ourselves c af=d1 b by :at our neighbors & fri5ds sp5d6 ,fa%ion is a temptress4 ,sm>t g[ns1 exquisite hat creations1 attractive /yles 9 boot]y1 all tempt u to sp5d m ?an is really q necess>y4 ,! extravagant woman fills h] w>drobe ) num]\s dresses1 bl\ses & hats = :i* %e has no real use4 ,b h[ mu* m s5sible x is to h j en\gh = "o's ne$s1 a few /yli%1 well-made g>m5ts--ea* "o an expression ( ! we>]'s own p]sonality4 ,!re seems to be a false impression among m5 & wom5 alike1 t to be fa%ionable "o mu/ h a new dress = e occasion1 a diff]5t suit = e day ( ! week4 ,z a matt] ( fact1 ?is is an entirely mi/ak5 idea4 ,fa%ion is n measur$ by ! numb] ( suits or dresses we h1 b by ! good ta/e we display 9 _! selection4 ,x is significant t ! woman ^: w>drobe is fill$ to ov]fl[+1 inv>iably f9ds t %e has no?+ to we>1 :ile ! woman ( ta/e1 ) h] c>efully select$ w>drobe1 always seems to be dress$ j "r4 ,,inappropriat5ess ,,9 ,,clo!s ,j z !re are c]ta9 laws gov]n+ ! mann]s & conduct ( society1 !re are c]ta9 laws gov]n+ ! uses ( dress4 ,:at is correct = ! dance1 is entirely incorrect = /reet we>4 ,:at "o we>s on a %opp+ trip may n be worn to ! !at]4 ,! g5tleman mu/ n we> 8 bus9ess suit to d9n]4 ,occasion gov]ns co/ume--& its dictates mu/ be he$$ if "o w\ld be consid]$ bo? fa%ionable & well-br$4 ,!re is1 = in/ance1 ! modi% "y lady tak+ an aft]noon /roll 9 high-heel$ sat9 slipp]s4 ,:at c\ld be m inappropriate8 ,sat9 slipp]s %\ld be worn only ) semi-ev5+ or ev5+ dress--nev] ) /reet clo!s4 ,pumps ) fur coats are /rik+ly inconsi/5t1 z are /raw hats ) w9t] attire1 or velvet hats ) da9ty summ]-"t frocks4 ,true fa%ion does n pr(ess to di/ort ! seasons1 al?\gh ! /yle au?orities w\ld (t5 h u believe s = _! own mat]ial ga94 ,!n1 ( c\rse1 !re is ! "y p]son :o is a?letically incl9$1 & insi/s on we>+ sport clo!s on all occasions4 ,we see h] on a %opp+ t\r1 blissfully unaw>e ( h[ ridicul\s h] full-pleat$ skirt & loose middy appe> b5ea? h] elaborate wrap4 ,we see h] at a tea1 en?usia/ic ov] ! glories ( ! eighte5? hole1 & int]pret+ ! glances ( h] fri5ds at h] sport %oes & bright sweat] z glances ( admiration r ?an disapproval4 ,sport clo!s are = ! t5nis c\rts1 golf l9ks1 skat+ r9ks & simil> places4 ,!y h no place at teas & receptions4 ,( ! transp>5t bl\ses & silk dresses ( ! bus9ess woman1 we w speak lat]2 b 9 draw+ a comp>ison1 we might say t !y are no m inappropriate ?an ! ecc5tricities ( dress assum$ by "s ( our wom5 ( fa%ion4 ,! importance ( ?is "q w>rants a special p>agraph4 ,,! ,,ecc5tric ,,dress] ,_m m5 & wom51 9 ! mi/ak5 belief t !y are express+ p]sonality1 adopt c]ta9 peculi>ities ( dress4 ,ecc5tric dress+ always attracts att5tion1 & is !re=e bord]+ on ! vulg>4 ,!re are1 ( c\rse1 _m m5 & wom5 :o enjoy attract+ att5tion1 :o delight 9 be+ consid]$ diff]5t4 ,9 su* p we are n int]e/$4 ,x is ! p ( good ta/e t we wi% to advise aga9/ ! mi/ake ( we>+ peculi> & unconv5tional clo!s4 ,!re is a v old tale relat$ ab\t an ,egyptian que5 :o own$ a *a9 ( coral1 /rung on a /rip ( dri$ sk9 f "o ( _! sacr$ animals4 ,%e glori$ 9 ! possession ( x1 & 9 ord] to d full ju/ice to x1 %e =bade ev]yone 9 h] k+dom to we> beads4 ,! man or woman ( to-day :o we>s diff]5t clo!s1 unconv5tional & 9 mo/ cases unbecom+ g>m5ts1 is m]ely obey+ ! same va9 & selfi% in/9ct t prompt$ t ,que5 ( long ago to =bid ! we>+ ( beads4 ,z = p]sonality1 ! man or woman :o _c express x 9 correct1 cons]vative & conv5tional clo!s1 c]ta9ly _c express x 9 grotesque & ecc5tric ones4 ,,com=t ,,9 ,,clo!s ,beautiful dress alone is n en\gh4 ,we may be attract$ to a manik91 b aft] five m9utes or s x bores u4 ,) beauty ( dress !re mu/ also be a grace & ease ( mann] )\t :i* no man or woman is q *>m+1 = uncom=table g>m5ts rob u ( all poise & grace4 ,?9k ( hold+ a quiet1 s]i\s1 calm conv]sation :ile "o's foot a*es pa9fully because ( a tight %oe6 ,?9k ( sitt+ gravely & pati5tly ?r\gh a long conc]t :ile "o's too-tight coll> gr[s ev] m & m irritat+1 :ile "o's n>r[ jacket becomes con/antly m uncom=table6 ,to be uncom=table is to be consci\s ( :at "o is we>+2 & we "k t well-dress$ m5 & wom5 are nev] consci\s ( clo!s4 ,!y "k in/9ctively t !y are well-dress$1 & ) ! k comes a dignity t adds *>m to ! beauty ( _! co/umes4 ,?us !y are able to ent] :ole-he>t$ly into conv]sation1 feel+ nei!r con/ra9$ nor uncom=table b enjoy+ t s]5e satisfaction t comes :5 "o is fully aw>e t "o is well-dress$4 ,! e>ly ,romans _h two di/9ct co/umes :i* 7 worn alike by ri* & poor--"o simple1 fl[+ g>m5t = ! ord9>y activities ( e-day life1 & "o t 0 also simple b a bit m decorative1 = ! c]emonial occasions4 ,p]haps ! grace & ease ( mann] = :i* ! ,romans ( yore 7 not$ 0 due to ! delightful com=t ( _! dress4 ,tight %oes1 extreme /yles1 uncom=table wraps1 coats or suits--any?+ t 9 any way makes y consci\s ( :at y are we>+1 %\ld be rigidly avoid$4 ,y are truly a slave ( fa%ion if y all[ y\rself to suff] h\rs ( torture m]ely to pres5t an appe>ance t w\ld h be5 va/ly m pleas+ if x _h be5 accompani$ by ! graceful ease ( mann] ( :i* discom=t robb$ y4 ,,if ,,"o ,,is ,,n ,,av]age ,we _c all be p]fect sixte5s or p]fect ?irty-sixes4 ,"s ( u are tall] ?an o!rs4 ,"s ( u are incl9$ to be /\t4 ,"s ( u are %ort1 & o!rs v sl5d]4 ,we all h di/9ct individualities t c be m>r$ or />r$ 9 ! mann] ( dress we adopt4 ,we %\ld all /udy our good po9ts & we> ! k9d ( clo!s t w emphasize !m at ! same "t t x w conceal our defects4 ,clo!s h ! p[] ( magnify+ imp]fections4 ,! too-/\t woman c we> dresses t w make h] look twice z /\t4 ,! %ort man c we> suits t make him look v mu* %ort]4 ,intellig5ce1 good judgm5t & a s5se ( beauty w a*ieve rem>kable results = ! man or woman :o c>es ab\t 8 or h] appe>ance4 ,!re is ! v ?9 woman1 = in/ance4 ,%e mu/ avoid ! sev]ely /raight up-&-d[n l9es t are s appropriate = o!r wom5 :o are built diff]5tly4 ,h] =te is tunics1 l>ge coll>s1 ruffles1 ov]bl\ses & b[s4 ,s(t1 filmy mat]ials t fall 9 graceful l9es are especially becom+1 z are *eck$ & fl[]$ mat]ials4 ,/ripes 9 all =ms mu/ be /rictly avoid$ z !y acc5tuate ! sl5d]ness4 ,= ! ?9 woman1 an easy1 graceful mann] is mo/ important4 ,:5 %e develops su* a mann]1 & comb9es x ) ! fluffie/ & mo/ frilly ( fem99e fa%ions1 "o w see h[ v *>m+ %e c be4 ,! too-/\t woman faces a m difficult problem4 ,%e mu/ c>efully consid] ea* detail ( h] dress1 mak+ sure t x does n 9 any way acc5tuate h] fle%9ess4 ,%e mu/ avoid ! *eck$ & brightly-color$ mat]ials t h] sl5d] fri5ds may we>4 ,long l9es %\ld be worn1 & x %\ld be rememb]$ t clo!s )\t wai/l9es "w wond]s = ! /\t woman--j z ! coat )\t a belt improves ! appe>ance ( ! /\t man4 ,su* edicts ( fa%ion z ! tight sleeve1 r\nd neck or %ort wai/ are n = ! /\t woman4 ,! ideal dress = h] is "o long & sweep+ 9 l9e4 ,! l5g? ( ! skirt1 z well z details ( /yle1 mu/ be adapt$ to h] own p>ticul> requirem5ts4 ,%e w f9d t %e w be mu* happi] 7& h] fri5ds1 too67 if %e =gets t %e is /\t1 & does n con/antly bewail ! fact to ^? :o are ) h]4 ,x is n deplorable to be /\t1 b x c]ta9ly is deplorable to dress 9 a mann] :i* emphasizes t /\tness4 ,,tall ,,& ,,%ort ,,p ,tall p h a di/9ct advantage4 ,!y are able to we> all /yles1 all colors1 unless !y are extremely tall4 ,!y seem to h a c]ta9 natural grace t l5ds *>m to :atev] !y we>4 ,b !re is ! too-tall p]son :o mu/ be c>eful ( :at he or %e we>s4 ,! v tall woman %\ld avoid /ripes z !y add to h] height4 ,%e mu/ n we> high coll>s1 nor sev]ely tailor$ bl\ses4 ,! tailor$ suit1 h[ev]1 becomes h]4 ,%e %\ld avoid bright colors & indulge a great deal 9 blacks & midnight blues4 ,! tall man may we> :atev] he pleases--z long z x is n conspicu\s4 ,he almo/ inv>iably pres5ts an impos+ & dignifi$ appe>ance if he is well dress$4 ,%ort p1 especially %ort wom51 mu/ ex]t special c>e 9 ! selection ( _! w>drobes4 ,! %ort woman mu/ select only ^? g[ns t h long l9es1 long-wai/$ effects4 ,bright colors are n = h]--except a t\* "h & !re4 ,%ort skirts are m becom+ ?an long ones1 j z /ripes are m becom+ ?an *ecks4 ,two extremes t ! %ort woman mu/ nev] indulge 91 are l>ge1 droop+ hats & extremely high heels4 ,! hat cuts h] height1 & ! heels give h] a tilt$ appe>ance4 ,:e!r y are tall or %ort1 /\t or sl5d]1 y h "s p>ticul> attractiv5ess1 & y %\ld n all[ ! k ( y\r imp]fections to make y timid or awkw>d4 ,x ne$s only ! correct dress & ! prop] _s ( pride & dignity to acc5tuate y\r p]sonal *>ms4 ,rememb] t x is p]sonality t c\nts--p]sonality & "*--& :ile "s ( ! _w's greate/ p]sonalities h be5 exceptionally tall1 j z _m ( !m h be5 extremely %ort6 ,,! ,,well-,,dress$ ,,woman ,someone once said !re is no?+ m beautiful ?an a beautiful woman4 ,a pretty s5tim5t1 b n q complete4 ,we w\ld h x read3 ,!re is no?+ m beautiful ?an a beautiful woman well-dress$4 ,:5 is a woman well-dress$8 ,x _c be :5 %e is m]ely fa%ionable1 = :5 we glance at ! fad+ portrait ( "s =gott5 ance/or1 graceful 9 h] ,colonial g[n ) its bill[s & bill[s ( creamy :ite lace1 we feel in/9ctively t %e is well-dress$4 ,& yet1 we _c call h] fa%ionable4 ,x _c be elaborate attire1 = we "k t ! /yli% "y miss 9 h] sev]ely tailor$ suit & sailor hat is c]ta9ly well-dress$4 ,x _c be di/9ctiv5ess--or individuality--= _m a delightfully well-dress$ "y woman buys all h] frocks & suits 9 ! %ops4 ,no1 x is nei!r ( ^!--& yet1 x is all ( !m4 ,! well-dress$ woman has ! faculty ( *>m+ y--& yet y y\rself "k n :y4 ,y "k t %e is well-dress$1 b :5 %e is gone y _c rememb] j :at x 0 t %e wore4 ,y h only a fa9t recollection ( a p]fect h>mony ( l9e & color4 ,%e is fa%ionable1 yes2 & elaborate1 too1 if ! occasion w>rants x4 ,%e is di/9ctive1 b n obvi\sly s4 ,b if %e is truly well-dress$1 h] clo!s are ( ! be/ mat]ials & ! workman%ip is faultless4 ,/yle1 color & l9e are all incid5tal to ^! two dom9at+ pr9ciples ( dress--mat]ial & workman%ip4 ,! /rik+ *>act]i/ic ( ! woman :o is well-dress$ is h] poise1 h] grace & ease ( mann]1 on all occasions4 ,%e is nev] self-consci\s1 nev] uncom=table4 ,%e nev] is ! c5t] ( attraction because %e is nev] conspicu\s4 ,%e is simply yet sm>tly dress$1 graceful yet dignifi$1 attractive yet inconspicu\s4 ,above all1 %e is always well-dress$--n only on fe/ive occasions4 ,e woman has )9 h] ! possibilities ( be+ *>m+--if n beautiful4 ,x requires only ! k ( correct dress1 ( h>mony & beauty 9 co/ume4 ,!re is1 ( c\rse1 ! woman :o insi/s t %e does n c>e at all ab\t clo!s1 t %e does n c>e h[ %e is dress$4 ,b %e is ! exception1 & we are int]e/$ 9 ! rule4 ,woman does h]self an inju/ice by be+ d[dy1 c>eless or commonplace 9 dress4 ,%e puts h]self at an unfair disadvantage4 ,*>m & beauty are ! h]itage ( woman1 & ! _w expects x ( h]4 ,,n ,a ,,slave ,,to ,,fa%ion ,! woman :o is rul$ by fa%ion may n consid] h]self a well-dress$ woman4 ,if h] s5se ( beauty is develop$1 if %e kn[s ! value ( art & h>mony1 %e w n be ! slave ( a /upid mode4 ,%e w n wor%ip at ! p$e/al ( fa%ion1 trembl+ z ea* new decree is ann\nc$ le/ %e be n among ! v fir/ to obs]ve x4 ,/yle does n dom9ate h] p]sonality2 r1 h] p]sonality dom9ates /yle4 ,& aft] all1 is x n absurd to adh]e slavi%ly to t :i* is 9 vogue1 )\t attempt+ to adapt ^? modes to "o's own individuality8 ,!re is1 = in/ance1 ! woman :o disc>ds an o!rwise attractive & fa%ionable g[n m]ely because ! sleeves are slightly puff$ in/ead ( sev]ely tight-fitt+ z ! :im ( ,fa%ion dem&s4 ,%e does n /op to consid] t puff$ sleeves are inf9itely m becom+ to h]4 ,!y are n ! late/--& t fact alone is en\gh to cause h] to disc>d ! g[n4 ,an excell5t ?\ght = ! girl or woman :o wi%es to be well-dress$1 to rememb]1 is3 always dress z ?\gh y 7 go+ to ! photograph] to h y\r picture tak5--a picture t y are go+ to leave to y\r *ildr5 to rememb] y by4 ,if y keep ?is 9 m9d1 y w nev] we> commonplace clo!s nor clo!s t are extreme 9 /yle1 b y w dress ) simplicity & ta/e1 be+ sure to add "h & !re a t\* ( y\r v own p]sonality--p]haps a corsage ( violets to %[ y\r love ( fl[]s1 or a r>e old cameo broo* to %[ y\r rev]5ce = ! ?+s gr[n old4 ,,! ,,well-,,dress$ ,,man ,few m5 realize ! trem5d\s importance ( clo!s bo? 9 ! social & bus9ess worlds4 ,! effects ( dress are f>-rea*+--& !y are c]ta9ly no less s among m5 ?an wom54 ,!re is ! /ory ( ! man :o ga9$ admittance to ! ,a!naeum ,libr>y 9 ,bo/on1 al?\gh he 0 n a memb]4 ,aft] sp5d+ a v pleasant morn+ read+1 he prep>$ to leave4 ,x 0 !n t he 0 attract$ to a r d[dy individual :o 0 remon/rat+ indignantly ) an (ficial at ! door4 ,i am a memb]1 ,i tell y6 he exclaim$4 ,well1 y c]ta9ly don't look x1 ! o!r retort$4 ,! man :o _h sp5t a morn+ 9 ! libr>y ha/5$ away4 ,he _h n kn[n t use ( ! read+ rooms 0 re/rict$ to memb]s4 ,b no "o _h que/ion$ him1 z he look$ ! "p ( a memb]4 ,yet1 ! man :o really did belong1 _h to submit to ! indignity ( que/ion+ & ( submitt+ pro(1 because 8 appe>ance--8 clo!s--did n d ju/ice to 8 position4 ,we "k t fir/ impressions are ! mo/ important1 especially 9 bus9ess4 ,! man ^: clo!s are gaudy1 ill-fitt+ or extreme1 w f9d t he is n mak+ z rapid a /ride =w>d z 8 abilities w>rant4 ,incorrect dress is a s]i\s h&icap4 ,9 ! social _w1 x is n only a h&icap1 b a b>ri]4 ,! (t-repeat$ ,dut* prov]b may be a bit exagg]at$1 b x c]ta9ly has a sugge/ion ( tru?--,clo!s ,make ! ,man4 ,& s we say to ! "y & ! old man alike1 dress well4 ,dress1 n z a fa%ion-plate1 b ) a reg>d = appropriate /yle--& ) an especially ke5 reg>d = f9e mat]ials & excell5t workman%ip4 ,d n be cont5t ) an ord9>y suit1 b be sure t ea* "o y we> imp>ts t poise & dignity :i* is s ess5tial to ! true g5tleman4 ,y\r w>drobe ne$ n be fill$ ) suits = e day & e occasion2 b a few c>efully select$ g>m5ts1 well-tailor$ & sm>tly /yl$ w e>n = y ! enviable di/9ction ( a well-dress$ man4 ,"o might rememb]1 to quote once aga9 f ! prov]bs ( ! ,dut*1 t ,a sm>t coat is a good lett] ( introduction4 ,,! ,,*>m ,,( ,,old ,,age ,y\? may n claim sole possession ( *>m4 ,old age has a *>m all its own--a silv] *>m t makes "o ?9k ( mell[$ roses1 & fad+ sunsets4 ,a delightful gray-&-lilac gr&mo!r1 repos+ quietly 9 ! dep?s ( a great arm*air1 p]haps dream+ ( a gold5 y\?--?is is a picture t arti/s h long lov$ to pa9t4 ,!re is some?+ /rangely irresi/ible 9 old age1 especially :5 old age is beautiful4 ,& to make x beautiful requires only a calm assurance & k9d he>t comb9$ ) clo!s t are 9 good ta/e & 9 h>mony ) "o's ye>s & p]sonality4 ,( c\rse1 "o does n expect "o's gr&mo!r to we> ! same k9d ( gay creations t "y ,miss ,sev5te5 delights 92 nor w\ld "o expect "o's gr&fa!r to flaunt ! same /yle ( suit "o's son we>s at college4 ,! s\nd ( ru/l+ silk & sweep+ petticoats is "o ( ! *>ms ( ! eld]ly lady--b an abbreviat$ skirt w\ld c]ta9ly make h] appe> ridicul\s4 ,simil>ly1 ! eld]ly g5tleman f9ds dignity & di/9ction 9 a black frock coat1 b "o is incl9$ to smile :5 he appe>s 9 ! jaunty black-&-:ite *eck$ ,norfolk suit t w\ld bett] become 8 son4 ,yes1 age has a *>m t is well wor? /riv+ =4 ,!re is some?+ decid$ly impos+ & impressive ab\t a h&some old man immaculately dress$2 & !re are no words beautiful en\gh to describe ! en*antm5t ( ! silv]-hair$ old lady 9 delicate colors & fabrics1 & fl[+ /yles rem9isc5t ( ! days ( p[d]$ wigs4 ,old age has its comp5sations2 y\? c nev] h its *>m+ repose & calm4 ,,! ,,eld]ly ,,woman ,9 ^! days1 :5 daught] & gr&mo!r enjoy ! same ent]ta9m5ts1 & att5d ! same affairs1 ! clo!s ( ! eld]ly woman are j z important z ^? ( ! y\ng]4 ,we %all describe "h sev]al k9ds ( co/umes t inv>iably add *>m to old age1 s t gr&mo!r may appe> to advantage beside ! y\?ful bloom ( ! "y girl4 ,!re is1 = in/ance1 ! s(t1 wide lace fi*u s becom+ to ! eld]ly woman--b t ! "y miss _c v well we>4 ,comb9$ ) a dress ( brocad$ sat91 ) a full skirt t takes "o back to ! days ( ! ,quak]s1 ! lace fi*u is mo/ attractive4 ,!n !re is always ! %ad[y *>m ( black velvet & black lace4 ,= ! m =mal occasions :5 ! eld]ly woman wi%es to be p>ticul>ly well-dress$1 yet n conspicu\s1 a dress ( black velvet1 ) wide frills ( black ,*antilly lace1 makes a mo/ appropriate co/ume4 ,! lace may be us$ to veil ! skirt & z sleeves4 ,! eld]ly woman may *oose any d>k color t becomes h]--gray1 d>k blue & black are p]haps ! ?ree colors mo/ favor$4 ,!re are sev]al light colors t are appropriate1 *ief among !m1 gray & lav5d>4 ,mat]ials worn by ! woman-:o-is-old] are taffeta1 velvet1 crepe de *9e & sat94 ,%e %\ld avoid su* mat]ials z org&ie1 georgette & tulle--!y are meant = y\?4 ,,imitation ,,& ,,ov]-,,dress+ ,two ( ! mo/ common faults ( eld]ly wom5 are imitation & ov]-dress+4 ,bo? rob old age ( its *>m1 & ! wise woman w consci5ti\sly avoid !m4 ,by imitation1 we mean ! foll[+ ( fa%ions & /yles meant = ! "y p]son4 ,we see wom5 celebrat+ _! fiftie? w$d+ anniv]s>ies we>+ fa%ionable dresses t are 9 absolute discord ) _! ye>s & p]sonality4 ,%ort skirts & /raight-l9e silh\ettes may be p]fectly all "r1 b !y c]ta9ly d n give to old age ! impos+ dignity t is its ma9 *>m4 ,"o in/9ctively respects & admires ! :ite-hair$ woman ^: skirts are ( a l5g? comm5surate ) h] age & dignity1 & :o c>ries h]self ) calm poise4 ,m ?an t1 "o appreciates h]4 ,b ! woman :o is gr[+ old & insi/s ^u keep+ h]self "y by we>+ inappropriate & inh>moni\s clo!s1 is m]ely mak+ a f>ce ( h]self4 ,!re c be no?+ m ridicul\s ?an a woman pa/ fifty 9 g[n & wrap obvi\sly creat$ = ! "y p]son ( sev5te54 ,in/ead ( improv+ h] appe>ance1 ! eld]ly woman deprives h]self ( ! *>m t %\ld rightfully be h]s4 ,z = ov]-dress+1 x is s utt]ly bad =m & bad ta/e t x requires only pass+ notice4 ,j z simplicity enhances ! beauty ( y\?1 s does simplicity enhance ! *>m ( old-age4 ,o/5tation ( any k9d1 jewels1 bright colors1 gaudy /yles--all ^! make old age awkw>d1 unpres5table & unref9$4 ,,! ,,old] ,,g5tleman ,"o c be a good _m ye>s pa/ fifty & /ill enjoy ! !at]1 ! op]a4 ,& "o c easily reta9 ! pres5table dignity ( e>li] days by we>+ clo!s t are j z appropriate z ^? ( ^? e>li] days4 ,= aft]noon we> ! eld]ly man w f9d ! black frock coat ) gray tr\s]s mo/ effective4 ,he %\ld we> :ite l951 w+ coll> & small black tie4 ,?is co/ume is also appropriate = morn+ we>4 ,9 ! ev5+ ! g5tleman always we>s full dress1 irrespective ( age4 ,9 ! w>m] climates1 g5tlem5 ( m mature ye>s f9d ke5 pleasure 9 ! e>ly morn+ & aft]noon co/ume consi/+ ( black & :ite patt]n$ homespun jacket1 slacks & wai/coat ( :ite flannel1 :ite l95 & f\l>d tie4 ,black & :ite sport %oes & a light panama hat complete ! co/ume admirably4 ,a ,,trip ,,to ,,! ,,s\? ,because x is ! trip ab\t :i* p are mo/ 9 d\bt :5 x comes to decid+ :at to take along we give "h bel[ a few sugge/ions ab\t ! w>drobe = a p]son ab\t to />t ,s\?4 ,to visit ! balmy sun%9e ( ! ,s\?1 is to require a w>drobe t w h>monize ) ! lazy mood ( ! skies ( ,havana or ,miami4 ,ev5 ?\gh ! sn[s may h ti$ up traffic 9 "o's own home t[n1 clo!s = ! ,s\?l& trip mu/ be delicate1 summ]y & flimsy4 ,"o includes a ba?+ suit1 too1 al?\gh ! lake back home is froz5 ov]4 ,! w>drobe "o takes to ! ,s\? dep5ds l>gely ^u ! duration ( ! visit & ! ext5t ( "o's purse4 ,! "o describ$ "h is = ! av]age requirem5ts ( bo?4 ,= ! morn+s !re mu/ be sev]al crisp1 demure little frocks t are easy to laund]4 ,bright colors mat* bright skies1 & wide sa%es are mo/ becom+4 ,= aft]noon we>1 frocks ( taffeta1 silk & org&ie are sugge/$--colorful little frocks made ) a reg>d = easy pack+ & attractiv5ess4 ,canton crepe is a lovely mat]ial1 especially :5 x is ( pale apricot or ,nile gre5--& x does n cru% z easily z taffeta or org&ie4 ,a delightful frock = ,s\!rn we> is h&-sewn voile 9 a s(t old rose %ade4 ,) x may be worn a l>ge-brimm$ /raw hat ( old rose4 ,bright sweat]s1 sport skirts1 sport coats1 bl\ses1 ox=ds--all ^! are ( c\rse indisp5sable to ! w>drobe = ! s\!rn visit4 ,! numb] ( sweat]s & bl\ses tak5 dep5ds ^u ! l5g? ( ! visit4 ,"o %\ld include a ba?+ suit1 a bea* coat & a brightly color$ p>asol4 ,& ! sm>t frock = ev5+ /rolls mu/ n be =gott54 ,at lea/ "o elaborate ev5+ g[n1 & two or ?ree semi-ev5+ g[ns w be necess>y ev5 if ! visit to ! ,s\? is a %ort "o4 ,& we w\ld he>tily recomm5d a fluffy little ev5+ wrap to g ) ! g[n4 ,!n1 ( c\rse1 !re are ! little /rapp$ slipp]s & ! l[-cut sports %oes to be consid]$4 ,"o is pretty sure to be happy "u ! blue skies ( ! tropics if "o's w>drobe conta9s a pl5tiful supply ( gay1 colorful frocks1 bl\ses & sports ?+s4 ,b "o ne$ n po/pone ! visit because clo!s seem to be exp5sive2 common s5se1 good judgm5t & a small purse g a long way4 ,,= ,,! ,,g5tleman ,pl5ty ( :ite duck tr\s]s1 :ite l951 light sack coats & sports clo!s are necess>y = ! man :o w9t]s 9 ! ,s\?4 ,he w f9d ! patt]n$ homespun jacket v sm>t inde$1 ) slacks & wai/coat ( :ite flannel4 ,?is outfit may be worn ) panama hat1 color$ f\l>d tie & black & :ite sports %oes4 ,a br[n or gray flannel sack suit is conv5i5t = ,s\!rn we>--especially 9 ! morn+ & e>ly aft]noon4 ,x is attractive :5 worn ) tan ox=ds1 color$ l95 & /raw hat4 ,flannel suits are (t5 worn ) :ite ox=ds1 & sometimes blue s]ge sack jackets ) :ite duck tr\s]s4 ,! wise man w include a suit = motor+ 9 8 w>drobe4 ,) x he %\ld include a motor cap1 & a light raglan coat or a coat ( un%orn homespun4 ,an attractive t5nis jacket = ,s\!rn we> is ( blue & black /rip$ ,engli% flannel1 ) a wide roll coll>2 worn ) :ite l95 & :ite flannel tr\s]s4 ,:ite t5nis %oes %\ld be includ$ = we> ) ?is outfit4 ,= ! aft]noon1 an attractive co/ume = ! g5tleman 9 ! ,s\? is a s+le-brea/$ jacket ( diamond weave homespun1 a d\ble-brea/$ ve/ to mat*1 :ite flannel tr\s]s & :ite l954 ,a black tie ) polka dots ( :ite1 & black & :ite sports %oes add j ! "r note ( sm>tness4 ,a d9n] jacket & full dress suit mu/ h place 9 ! w>drobe "o prep>es = ! ,s\?4 ,pat5t lea!r pumps %\ld n be =gott51 nor a silk hat = ! v =mal occasions4 ,( c\rse1 !re mu/ be pl5ty ( :ite & color$ l951 & a g5]\s supply ( bright ties & sports %oes & hose4 ,z = ba?+ suit1 golf togs & rid+ habits1 we leave ^! to ! ta/e & discrim9ation ( ! g5tleman :o is contemplat+ ! visit4 ,,*apt] ,,iii ,,! ,,bus9ess ,,woman ,,woman ,,9 ,,! ,,bus9ess ,,_w ,!re 0 a "t1 n s v long ago1 :5 woman's activities 7 conf9$ to ! home4 ,= a woman to be actively engag$ 9 "s bus9ess or pr(ession ( h] own meant "o ( two ?+s3 ei!r %e 0 an old maid or %e 0 que]4 ,naturally1 ! social /&+ ( su* wom5 0 r d\btful4 ,b to-day1 ) ! equal fran*ise t has giv5 woman h] long-d5i$ vote1 %e has all[$ h] tal5ts & capabilities to f9d outlet 9 o!r wid] fields ?an ^? limit$ m]ely to ! home4 ,!re are wom5 9 law (fices1 wom5 9 c\rts z report]s & int]pret]s1 wom5 9 ! /ock ex*ange1 wom5 editors1 wom5 directors--wom5 9 e conceivable bran* ( art1 indu/ry & comm]ce4 ,t !y are succe$+1 admirably s1 is evid5t 9 _! social /atus4 ,ye>s ( bl9d adh]5ce to false tradition h robb$ woman ( h] prop] developm5t along bus9ess l9es4 ,t expla9s :y !re is /ill a diff]5ce 9 ! bus9ess /atus ( m5 & wom54 ,!n1 ( c\rse1 !re is ! sex diff]5ce2 & advanc$ ?\gh %e prides h]self on be+1 woman is /ill consid]$ m5tally inf]ior--= ! simple reason t %e is a woman4 ,x may take _m ye>s ( sl[ developm5t be=e woman is consid]$ man's absolute equal--9 bus9ess z 9 politics4 ,& until t "t arrives1 x behooves e woman :o is int]e/$ 9 ! progress ( womanhood1 to d h] little %>e 9 ha/5+ t glori\s "t ( complete equality4 ,"o ( ! seem+ly small1 b really vital ?+s woman c d1 is to dress s well & s wisely 9 bus9ess t ! mo/ exact+ man c f9d no excuse to condemn h] z a slave ( fa%ion4 ,,self-,,confid5ce ,poise1 self-confid5ce1 dignity--all ^! come ) ! k t "o is well-dress$4 ,! bus9ess woman _c af=d to sacrifice self-confid5ce1 if %e wi%es to make a success4 ,self-confid5ce br+s ) x a c]ta9 =cefulness ( mann]1 a c]ta9 dignity ( be>+ t is conv9c+ at ! same "t t x is impressive4 ,& clo!s play a l>ge "p 9 ! developm5t ( ?is self-confid5ce6 ,yes1 clo!s1 = x is :5 "o kn[s & feels in/9ctively t "o is p]fectly attir$1 yet inconspicu\s1 t "o is 9 full comm& ( "o's ?\ghts & be>+4 ,! woman :o w\ld be a success 9 bus9ess1 mu/ rememb] t %e _c d ju/ice to ! bus9ess ( ! mom5t1 if %e is wond]+ :e!r h] skirt falls j "r1 :e!r h] bl\se is /ill crisply laund]$1 :e!r ! colors %e is we>+ are n too bright4 ,%e becomes emb>rass$1 flu/]$--& %e fails to d ju/ice to :atev] %\ld h be5 claim+ h] att5tion4 ,rec5tly1 we read 9 ! newspap]s ab\t a woman lawy] def5d+ a "y man accus$ ( murd]4 ,we read ) a great deal ( int]e/1 t %e 0 a comp>atively "y woman1 & incl9$ to be eloqu5t 9 h] spee*4 ,we read p>ts ( h] rebuttals to ! c\rt1 & we tri$ to picture h] /&+ 9 ! c5t] ( ! huge room1 surr\nd$ by eag] spectators1 fac+ ! jury1--9 a g[n t 0 fa%ionable1 becom+1 yet inappropriate & uncom=table4 ,we c\ld n d x4 ,we knew t %e c\ld nev] h made ! impassion$ appeal t fre$ ! def5dant if %e _h be5 ?9k+ ( h] clo!s1 r ?an ( ! case4 ,we pictur$ h] 9 a cons]vative suit1 ) high-neck$ wai/1 /rictly tailor$ ?r\gh\t1 & giv+ ! appe>ance ( be+ well-dress$ )\t anyone ev5 /opp+ to ?9k ab\t x4 ,lat] we 7 gratifi$ to le>n def9itely t we 7 correct--?is woman lawy] :o _h made s trem5d\s a success 0 an extremely cons]vative dress]1 ) simple good ta/e4 ,self-confid5ce1 poise & dignity are valuable assets to h 9 bus9ess4 ,correct dress aids mat]ially 9 _! developm5t4 ,,! ,,slatt]n ,x h>dly seems necess>y 9 a book ( ?is k9d to speak ab\t ! slatt]n4 ,& yet1 "s bits ( advice we c give may be ( value to "s--& !re=e we w n omit !m4 ,by a slatt]n we mean a woman :o %[s lack ( c>e & ?\ght 9 clo?+4 ,! girl ^: bl\se sags is a slatt]n4 ,! woman ^: dress hangs loosely & does n fit well is a slatt]n4 ,! woman :o looks z ?\gh %e _h jump$ into h] clo!s quickly1 da%$ (f to ! (fice )\t glanc+ 9 ! mirror1 & !n =gott5 all ab\t /raight5+ h] hat & belt1 is a slatt]n4 ,broadly speak+1 any woman is a slatt]n :o is n scrupul\sly c>eful 9 h] attire1 :o does n %[ by h] v appe>ance t %e is well-groom$1 well c>$ =4 ,"o c be p]fectly groom$ ) ! possession ( j "o suit4 ,a girl :o is plann+ to h an illu/ri\s c>e]1 & :o wi%es to put aside h] e>n+s ) a view t[>ds future inve/m5ts1 ne$ n sp5d l>ge sums on clo!s4 ,) "o v sm>t1 tailor$ suit ( a good mat]ial1 & sev]al attractive bl\ses1 %e c always look neat & well-dress$4 ,sat9 bl\ses1 tuck$ & high-neck$1 are excell5t = ! (fice4 ,a s(t1 fluffy little bl\se ( georgette trans=ms ! suit into a q appropriate co/ume = visit+ & ent]ta9+4 ,!re c be no excuse = ! girl or woman :o does n always look h] be/ at bus9ess z well z :5 %e is att5d+ to h] social duties4 ,& be+ well-dress$ does n mean exp5sively or elaborately dress$4 ,"s ( ! be/ groom$ wom5 we> clo!s t are /rik+ because ( _! v simplicity4 ,,foll[+ ,,! ,,fa%ions ,*ang+ con/antly z !y d1 ,fa%ions mu/ be foll[$ wisely4 ,to adopt ea* new /yle z x is pres5t$1 /opp+ to "q nei!r its au!nticity nor p]man5cy1 is to become v soon a lit]al slave ( fa%ion4 ,to avoid ?is1 wom5 ( good ta/e adopt only ^? new fa%ions t are cons]vative & n obvi\sly new4 ,any?+ radically diff]5t1 any?+ extreme1 %\ld be /rictly avoid$4 ,! bus9ess woman %\ld pay p>ticul> att5tion to ! select+ ( /yles = h] dresses1 bl\ses & suits4 ,%e %\ld nev] select a dress t is made ) "s di/9ct feature t may be worn = a mon? or two & !n disc>d$4 ,%e %\ld nev] se>* among ! fads = h] bl\ses1 b *oose in/ead ^? simple1 tailor$1 becom+ wai/s t are s appropriate = bus9ess4 ,h] suits %\ld always be d>k 9 color1 ( excell5t mat]ial1 & ( a /yle t is amply cons]vative en\gh to be worn two seasons if necess>y4 ,if fa%ions are *os5 wisely1 ) a reg>d = simplicity2 if1 9 fact1 clo!s are *os5 = good cut & f9e mat]ial r ?an attractive /yle1 ! bus9ess woman w soon f9d t %e is ga9+ a reputation = be+ at all times well-dress$4 ,& x is a reputation %e w f9d valuable4 ,,gaudy ,,attraction ,"o ne$ only /ep into a mod]n (fice = a mom5t1 & glance ar\nd at ! /5ograph]s 9 _! ?9 georgette bl\ses & high-heel$ %oes1 to realize h[ inappropriate gaudy1 attractive clo!s are 9 ! bus9ess atmosph]e4 ,! /5ograph]s may cont9ue to we> _! flimsy wai/s & gaudy clo!s )\t ev] feel+ sorry = x1 b ! bus9ess p]son :o expects to h a wor?y c>e]1 w f9d o/5tation 9 clo!s1 & especially gaudy display1 fatally detrim5tal to h] ultimate success4 ,!re is no?+ m conducive to respect1 tru/ & honor 9 bus9ess ?an quiet ta/es--9 clo!s z 9 ev]y?+ else4 ,"o in/9ctively respects ! "y lady :o is sm>tly attir$ 9 d>k1 simple clo!s1 ideally adapt$ to ! bus9ess environm5t4 ,h[ mu* m s5sible %e looks1 h[ mu* m eag] "o is to tru/ h] ) confid5tial in=mation1 ) responsible duties1 ?an ! flippant p]son :o we>s gaudy clo!s6 ,! wise woman w nev] all[ bad ta/e to influ5ce h] to we> bright1 attractive ?+s to bus9ess2 :at %e lacks 9 good ta/e & ! k ( correct dress1 %e w make up 9 good common s5se4 ,someone once said1 ,!re mu/ be a reason = ev]y?+4 ,!re mu/ be1 !n1 a good reason = ev]y?+ we we>4 ,& surely !re c be no reason = a bright orange georgette wai/1 or a f9ely plait$ :ite crepe de *9e skirt worn to bus9ess4 ,wom5 :o wi% to succe$ 9 bus9ess1 %\ld avoid all t is gaudy1 useless & inappropriate 9 dress1 we>+ only :at is simple1 becom+ & neat4 ,,! ,,bus9ess ,,suit ,! correctly-tailor$1 neat bus9ess suit is indisp5sable--z any bus9ess woman w atte/4 ,!re seems to be a dignity ab\t a suit t is lack+ 9 any o!r bus9ess g>m5t4 ,p]haps x is because ( its simplicity4 ,= ! woman :o wi%es to be tailor$1 we sugge/ ! sm>t ,engli% twe$ suits t are always 9 good ta/e4 ,!y may be simple1 belt$ models ) l>ge pat* pockets & /raight-l9e jackets4 ,hea!r is a good color1 or gray or br[n mixture4 ,worn ) pla9 :ite lawn or :ite bati/e bl\ses1 suits ( ?is k9d are ideal = bus9ess we>4 ,j]sey suits are also appropriate1 if !y are develop$ 9 d>k colors1 & simple /yles4 ,loose1 belt$ jackets are always 9 /yle1 or !y may be slightly fitt$ at ! wai/4 ,mo/ popul> & mo/ becom+ ( all is ! navy blue s]ge suit4 ,x is always appropriate4 ,x c be worn ) :ite or color$ bl\ses1 & always pres5ts a neat appe>ance4 ,if x is well made & fits p]fectly x w imp>t t well-groom$ look s important to bus9ess wom54 ,= exact /yle ( suit1 fa%ion magaz9es or p]sonal tailors mu/ be consult$4 ,9 ! summ] a woman may ) propriety we> simple frocks ( g+ham1 *ambray1 l951 & o!r wa%able mat]ials4 ,,! ,,bus9ess ,,dress ,,& ,,coat ,d>k colors & heavy mat]ials are always bett] =m = bus9ess frocks ?an light1 colorful mat]ials4 ,good ta/e is und5iably evid5t 9 ! simple1 "o-piece bus9ess dress ( navy blue s]ge or tricot9e4 ,a bit ( lace at ! neck1 or p]haps "s t\* ( bright color1 relieves ! sombre d>kness ( ! dress yet does n add any undue or inappropriate attraction4 ,please rememb] we are n try+ to prea* "h1 or lecture y on ! extremes ( /yle4 ,:at we are attempt+ to d is m]ely po9t out = y :at is correct & incorrect to we> 9 bus9ess circles1 & we feel sure t y c make no mi/ake by foll[+ our advice4 ,= in/ance1 !re is ! woman :o is seek+ valiantly to make a success 9 "s l9e ( bus9ess hi!rto b>r$ to wom54 ,yet %e we>s an exp5sive fur coat & attractive frocks t w\ld be bett] fitt$ to ! dance floor4 ,%e wond]s :y h] sup]iors hesitate to tru/ h] ) important responsibilities4 ,%e does n realize t h] lack ( discrim9ation 9 dress1 h] evid5t lack ( k ( :at is correct to we> at bus9ess1 has caus$ !m to lose confid5ce 9 h]4 ,! bus9ess coat %\ld be ( clo?1 nev] completely ( fur unless "o's position is high en\gh to w>rant x--& ev5 !n x %\ld be only ( "o fur1 in/ead ( a comb9ation ( two or ?ree1 & made ) a reg>d = simplicity & inconspicu\sness4 ,h[ev]1 ! mo/ appropriate bus9ess coat is made ( a heavy clo?1 pla9 or fur-trimm$ = w9t]1 & light-weight1 d>k-color$ mat]ial = ! w>m] days4 ,! hat1 ( c\rse1 foll[s ! g5]al note ( simplicity & is usually small & d>k4 ,a turban is excell5t1 & x is "o ( ! few fa%ions 9 hats t rema9s always popul>4 ,,an ,,appeal ,,to ,,bus9ess ,,wom5 ,x took _m c5turies ( hamm]+ be=e ! portals ( bus9ess & indu/ry & art 7 ?r[n wide op5 to wom54 ,n[ t t has happ5$ x is h] duty & pride to conduct h]self 9 su* a way t !re c be no regrets & va9 long+s = ! return ( ! woman ( ye/]day4 ,by h] mann] & h] dress a woman det]m9es h] place1 & ! wom5 :o are c>eless ( _! appe>ance & c>eless ( _! /&>d are ! ones :o are h9d]+ ! progress ( wom5 t[>d ! goal ( p]fect womanhood4 ,:5 %e ent]s bus9ess %e mu/ realize t %e is on an equal foot+ ) m5 & %e %\ld n dem& or expect privileges simply because %e is a woman4 ,:at %e does & says & we>s dur+ ! h\rs ( h] social life is entirely di/9ct f h] bus9ess life1 ?\gh1 ( c\rse1 %e is always c\rte\s1 h[ev] h>d x may be sometimes to control h]self "u ! gr9d+ ( ! r\t9e "w at ! (fice4 ,,*apt] ,,iv ,,on ,,! ,,/reet ,,! ,,true ,,etiquette ,etiquette1 9 its true/ s5se1 is an expon5t ( self1 r ?an a manife/ation t[>ds o!rs4 ,we d :at is "r & c\rte\s because no o!r behavior possibly c\ld be consi/5t ) our claim to be well-br$4 ,z ,%akespe>e has said1 ,to ?9e own self be true2 ,& x mu/ foll[ z ! night ! day1 ,?\ can/ n !n be false to any man4 ,in/9ctively1 & ) no ?\ght ( impress+ o!rs1 ! well-br$ man does & says :at is correct4 ,& 8 mann]s are z poli%$ & cultivat$ 9 8 home1 at bus9ess & 9 public1 z !y are at ! mo/ =mal social functions4 ,x is n en\gh to obs]ve ! conv5tions ( society :5 y are 9 ! elaborate ballroom or at a fa%ionable d9n]4 ,y mu/ be always1 at all times1 9 all places1 z c\rte\s & well-mann]$ z y w\ld be 9 ! mo/ impressive surr\nd+s4 ,! _w judges y by y\r mann]s 9 ! /reet c> & on ! av5ue j z sev]ely z x does 9 private homes & at social functions4 ,d :at is correct because y are well-br$1 & n because "s important p]son is wat*+ y4 ,!n y w truly be foll[+ ! rules ( c\rtesy4 ,,poise ,,9 ,,public ,mightie/ p[]s by deepe/ calms are f$ says ! prov]b4 ,& ,dr4 ,crane1 himself a mighty p[]1 supplem5ts ! say+ by "o ( 8 own--,! sil5t sun is mighti] ?an ! :irlw9d4 ,x is ! quiet well-mann]$ p]son :o inspires respect & lik+4 ,! l\d laugh bespeaks ! vacant m9d & noisy1 boi/]\s conduct has a t5d5cy to irritate & make n]v\s ! p :o h to come into contact ) x4 ,9 public & else:]e y are accr$it$ ) z mu* ref9em5t & g5tility z y\r mann]s display--no m4 ,x is a m>k ( extreme good bre$+ to be able to meet all em]g5cies calmly & )\t uncontroll$ ang] or excitem5t4 ,9 tra9+ 9 ! etiquette ( calm behavior1 !re c be no bett] te/ ?an t ( controll+ ! temp]4 ,d n confuse ?is s]5ity ( mann] ) c[>dice2 = ! calm dignity t =bids "o to be ill-mann]$ also =bids "o to endure insol5ce4 ,by le>n+ to control ! temp]1 "o develops t k9d ( poise :i* is und5iably "o ( ! greate/ assets 9 ! social & bus9ess worlds4 ,,! ,,*>m ,,( ,,c\rtesy ,real culture has a t5d5cy to avoid excessive individuality4 ,in/ead1 x requires t all p be treat$ ) equal c\rtesy1 :e!r !y are /rang]s 9 ! /reet ( fri5ds 9 ! draw+-room4 ,& x is ?is v *>m ( c\rtesy t has made etiquette s important a factor 9 civilization4 ,all doors op5 to c\rtesy1 ! prov]bs tell u4 ,! g5]al public s sadly abus$ 9 book & spee*1 is quick to recognize c\rtesy & eag] to respond to x4 ,be=e a pleasant face & a c\rte\s mann]1 all ob/acles vani%1 & we f9d ourselves progress+ easily ?r\gh ! _w1 mak+ fri5ds z we g4 ,"s ( u va9ly pride ourselves ^u be+ frank & c&id 9 our association ) o!rs4 ,?is is a s]i\s blund] :i* _m m5 & wom5 make4 ,x is n comm5dable to be frank1 :5 c\rtesy is sacrific$4 ,be tru?ful & j1 b d n be unk9d4 ,& x c]ta9ly is unk9d to repeat bits ( gossip or sc&al1 unless !re is a special reason :y x %\ld be done4 ,h[ mu* bett] x is to ga9 ! reputation ( be+ consid]ate ?an ! reputation ( be+ brutally frank6 ,!re are c\ntless trifl+ te/s ( good mann]s t di/+ui% ! well-br$4 ,& ^! same te/s prove t a c>eful att5tion to ! rights & com=ts ( o!rs1 is "o ( ! mo/ decid$ m>ks ( good bre$+4 ,= in/ance1 at ! po/(fice "o c imm$iately disc]n ! well-br$ man4 ,he /&s quietly 9 l9e until !re is room = him at ! w9d[4 ,he does n cr[d4 ,he does n attempt to pu% ahead ( o!rs to rea* ! w9d[ be=e 8 turn4 ,he does n int]f]e ) o!r p's bus9ess2 he w\ld be horrifi$ at ! ?\ght ( delib]ately loit]+ ne> a w9d[ to ov]he> ! private affairs ( "s o!r man4 ,he is quiet1 unobtrusive & consid]ate1 mov+ quickly away f ! w9d[ = ! next p]son's conv5i5ce4 ,9 mann] & spee*1 he is ess5tially c\rte\s4 ,x is impossible to be a lady or g5tleman )\t g5tle mann]s4 ,& x is impossible to h g5tle mann]s )\t be+ c\rte\s4 ,! ^w c\rtesy to-day %\ld c>ry ! same mean+ ( beauty & *>m t ! ^w *ivalry did 9 ! eighte5? & n9ete5? c5turies4 ,,ladies ,,& ,,g5tlem5 ,!re 0 a "t1 n s long ago1 :5 a mo/ m>k$ res]ve 0 requir$ betwe5 m5 & wom5 9 public4 ,b to-day1 ) ! adv5t ( wom5 into almo/ e bran* ( bus9ess1 art & pr(ession1 !re is a t5d5cy to loos5 ?is social b>ri] & create a m fri5dly relation%ip betwe5 m5 & wom54 ,! /iff =malities ( a decade ago h giv5 way to a mu* m pleas+ social h>mony & und]/&+4 ,etiquette requires t ! association ( m5 & wom5 9 ref9$ circles %all be frank )\t fre$om1 fri5dly )\t famili>ity decl>es a rec5t writ] on good mann]s4 ,!re is no long] ne$ = ! /ra9$ res]ve =m]ly felt :5 wom5 7 9 ! company ( m5 9 public4 ,if ! correct rules ( etiquette are obs]v$1 & c\rtesy & poise foll[ 9 _! wake1 ! man & woman 9 public may be z entirely at ease & unre/ra9$ z !y w\ld be 9 a draw+-room or at an in=mal d9n]4 ,am]ican g5tlem5 h ! reputation ( be+ m *ivalr\s ?an ! g5tlem5 ( any o!r c\ntry4 ,am]ican ladies are acclaim$ ! mo/ *>m+ & intellig5t 9 ! _w4 ,?us1 :5 ! speak] on ! plat=m addresses ! public audi5ce z ,ladies & ,g5tlem5 ! expression %\ld mean some?+ m ?an m]ely a c>eless =mality4 ,,:5 ,,to ,,b[ ,,9 ,,public ,to b[ or n to b[ is (t5 a puzzl+ "q6 ,"s au?orities on etiquette claim t x is correct to b[ fir/ to a p]son ( high] social position4 ,o!rs ass]t t social position has no?+ to d ) x1 & t x is age alone t det]m9es :o %all b[ fir/4 ,! "q devolves ^u sev]al v important rules t %\ld be rigidly obs]v$4 ,! fir/1 & inv>iable rule1 is t ! woman always b[s fir/ :5 meet+ m5 acqua9tances4 ,h] b[ assumes ! proportions ( a simple greet+2 ! head is slightly incl9$1 %e looks directly at ! man recogniz$1 & smiles cordially4 ,to ! woman1 !re=e1 is giv5 ! privilege ( recogniz+ or refus+ to recognize a man acqua9tance4 ,h[ev]1 ! really well-br$ woman w nev] ignore 9 public a p]son1 man or woman1 ) :om %e has _h ev5 a slight acqua9tance--unless %e has a v good reason to d s4 ,two "y wom5 meet+ 9 public greet ea* o!r ) a c]ta9 degree ( spontaneity :i* consequ5tly elim9ates any "q reg>d+ ! fir/ b[4 ,b :5 "o ( ! wom5 is m>ri$ & ! o!r unm>ri$1 ! fir/ b[ inv>iably comes f ! =m]4 ,y\ng] p1 ( ! same sex1 always wait = ! fir/ sign ( recognition f ! old] p]son4 ,"y wom5 :o are dance p>tn]s or p>tn]s at ! d9n] table ) m5 :o are n p]sonal fri5ds1 incur ! social obligation ( b[+ c\rte\sly :5 *ance meet+s are made 9 public1 ev5 ?\gh !re is no desire to cont9ue social acqua9tance%ip4 ,also1 :5 a man or woman has be5 invit$ to an ent]ta9m5t at a h\se ?r\gh ! good (fices ( a fri5d ( ! ho/ess1 he or %e mu/ wait to receive fir/ recognition f t ho/ess :5 meet+ 9 public4 ,g5tlem5 meet+ ea* o!r 9 public obs]ve ! same rule z t outl9$ = two wom51--! y\ng] waits = fir/ recognition f ! eld]4 ,if bo? are ( ! same age1 ! "q ( fir/ b[ is unimportant4 ,p meet+ (t5 dur+ ! day ne$ n b[ elaborately ea* "t2 a simple smile or glance ( recognition is suffici5t4 ,x is extremely rude & unk9d to cut an acqua9tance publicly by />+ coldly 9 response to a c\rte\s b[ & smile4 ,!re are s _m m dignifi$ me?ods ( t]m9at+ an undesirable acqua9tance%ip4 ,x is necess>y only to keep "o's eyes av]t$1 p]si/5tly b n obvi\sly if "o wi%es to avoid greet+ an undesirable acqua9tance4 ,or if "o wi%es "o may b[ ) extreme =mality1 b a b[ & smile 9 public %\ld always receive "s k9d ( ackn[l$gem5t1 no matt] h[ sev]ely =mal4 ,,walk+ ,,9 ,,public ,fir/ 9 importance to rememb] :5 walk+ 9 public is poise & balance ( be>+4 ,! expression ! debutante's sl\* is a direct result ( ! lazy mann] ( walk+ rec5tly adopt$ by a numb] ( "y wom54 ,aside f its bad effect ^u heal?1 ?is mann] ( walk+ is bo? ungraceful & unattractive4 ,m5 & wom5 bo? %\ld rememb] t an erect1 well-pois$ be>+ is m impressive ?an ! mo/ elaborate co/ume4 ,a lady does n take a g5tleman's arm :5 walk+ ) him 9 ! daytime unless %e is eld]ly or infirm4 ,x is only aft] d>k t %e prop]ly accepts ! support ( h] escort4 ,9 ?is case1 %e m]ely re/s ! palm ( h] h& lightly )9 ! curve ( 8 elb[4 ,x is extremely bad =m1 z well z ungraceful1 = h] to l9k h] arm ?r\gh 84 ,! g5tleman always walks ne>e/ ! curb unless on a special occasion :5 ! /reet is v cr[d$ & he wi%es to protect h] f ! jo/l+ cr[ds4 ,he may (f] 8 arm to ! lady 9 cross+ dang]\s /reets or to guide h] ?r\gh conge/$ traffic4 ,:5 walk+ ) two ladies1 a g5tleman's prop] position is n betwe5 !m2 if x is 9 ! ev5+1 he (f]s 8 arm to ! eld] lady & ! o!r fri5d walks by h] side4 ,!re seems to be a mi/ak5 belief t a g5tleman walk+ ) two ladies mu/ s&wi* himself betwe5 !m1 b correct social usage tea*es t ?is is entirely wrong4 ,! ladies always walk side by side4 ,on no occasion may a g5tleman take a woman's arm4 ,good society reg>ds ?is z a disrespectful fre$om4 ,?us1 :5ev] he feels t %e ne$s 8 protection1 a g5tleman %\ld (f] a lady 8 arm1 b nev] attempt to ?ru/ 8 h& ?r\gh h] arm4 ,x is n ev5 correct = him to grasp h] by ! elb[ 7z s _m "y m5 insi/ ^u do+67 :5 cross+ a /reet4 ,,/opp+ ,,= ,a ,,*at ,v (t5 we meet1 9 ! c\rse ( our daily /rolls1 old fri5ds or acqua9tances ) :om we are eag] to h a little *at4 ,?is is entirely p]missible1 if c]ta9 laws ( good conduct are obs]v$4 ,"o %\ld nev] /op on ! /reet to talk1 b %\ld walk on sl[ly ) ! p]son ) :om "o wi%es to conv]se4 ,rememb] t prim>ily all conduct 9 public %\ld be *>act]iz$ by res]ve4 ,:ile x is entirely all[able to call a jolly ,hello6 to a fri5d "o meets 9 a c\ntry lane1 ev5 ?\gh "o /ill is fifty rods away1 x w\ld be extremely bad =m on ,broadway or ,fif? ,av5ue--or ,ma9 ,/reet 9 any t[n4 ,a cordial b quiet greet+ %[s good bre$+2 a greet+ s conspicu\s t x attracts att5tion is nev] 9 good =m4 ,conv]sation %\ld be c>ri$ on 9 quiet & subdu$ tones4 ,above all1 be natural 9 y\r spee*4 ,d n attempt to be fl[]y 9 y\r language1 or diff]5t m]ely because !re are /rang]s ar\nd to he>--& admire4 ,& if y d /op to conv]se ) y\r old fri5d1 be sure t y speak s5sibly ( ?+s ( mutual int]e/2 !re is no excuse to /op m]ely = ! sake ( ex*ang+ inanities4 ,:isp]+ is z rude 9 public z x is 9 ! ballroom or at ! d9n] table4 ,confid5tial bus9ess %\ld n be discuss$ on ! /reet or 9 ! dep>tm5t /ore2 ! prop] place = su* private affairs is 9 ! (fice or p>lor4 ,if address$ by a /rang] seek+ in=mation reg>d+ a c]ta9 /reet or numb]1 %[ a *e]ful & k9dly int]e/4 ,x is p]plex+ & (t5 emb>rass+ to be 9 an unfamili> t[n or c\ntry1 & :atev] in=mation y give %\ld be 9 an int]e/$ & c\rte\s mann]4 ,someone once said1 ,if y mu/ d a ?+1 d x ) all y\r he>t4 ,to d x half-he>t$ly is to rob x ( all its *>m4 ,let ?is be y\r motto 9 reg>d to ! c\rtesy ext5d$ /rang]s :o seek y\r aid4 ,,:5 ,,accid5ts ,,happ5 ,gibbon said1 ,accid5t is commonly ! p>5t ( disord]4 ,b :]e !re are only p ( culture & f9e bre$+1 an accid5t is devoid ( all ha/e1 hy/]ia or o!r indications ( disord] ( any k9d4 ,x is ! f9al te/ ( correct mann]s1 ?is be+ able to conduct oneself ) calmness & dignity ev5 9 mom5ts ( mo/ di/ract+ circum/ances4 ,& besides its cultural aspects1 calmness 9 "t ( dang] or accid5t is (t5 ! means ( sav+ lives4 ,! rules ( good bre$+ are no?+ m ?an ! rules ( good s5se & ^! are nev] put to a m sev]e te/ ?an :5 an accid5t occurs4 ,! p]son :o c keep 8 head dur+ a fire w be mu* m likely to get out ( ! build+ ?an "o :o loses all control ( himself & becomes hy/]ical4 ,pres5ce ( m9d :5 someone fa9ts or is hurt or is 9 dang] (t5 prev5ts a s]i\s or fatal mi%ap & always elim9ates a l>ge "p ( ! disord] incid5tal to su* occasions4 ,:5 an automobile or railroad disa/] occurs1 x is ! calm p]son :o is mo/ helpful4 ,& surely helpfulness is "o ( ! basic t]ms ( good conduct ev]y:]e4 ,,accept+ ,,c\rtesies ,,f ,,/rang]s ,ella ,:eel] ,wilcox1 writ+ ab\t etiquette1 said ,etiquette is ano!r "n = k9d ?\ght4 ,! man :o says ',i "k no?+ ab\t etiquette' does n realize t he is say+ ',i "k no?+ ab\t c\rtesy to my fell[ be+s4' ,"o ( ! reasons :y ,am]ica has truly be5 ! l& ( gold5 promise to s _m /rang]s f o!r %ores1 is t !re are always s _m m5 & wom5 eag] to help1 eag] to %[ ^? little c\rtesies t w>m ! he>t & rek9dle ! dy+ _s4 ,etiquette & c\rtesy are synonym\s4 ,b x is n alone ) ! giv+ ( c\rtesies t we are int]e/$4 ,x is important t we "k ! correct way to accept !m4 ,& x is p>ticul>ly important t we "k ! correct way to accept c\rtesies ext5d$ to u 9 public4 ,!re c be no?+ m disc\rag+ to ! lov] ( social etiquette ?an to see a man give up 8 seat 9 ! c> to a woman :o accepts x )\t a ^w ( ?anks or a smile4 ,! "q has (t5 be5 ask$ :e!r or n x is correct = a woman to accept ! (f] ( %elt] ( an umbrella (f]$ h] by a g5tleman :o is a p]fect /rang]4 ,to settle ?is def9itely1 we say t x is absolutely bad =m = a woman to accept ?is c\rtesy no matt] h[ h>d x is ra9+ & h[ important ! ne$ ( sav+ h] clo!s may be4 ,%e may1 h[ev]1 accept ! c\rtesy if x is (f]$ by a g5tleman to :om %e has be5 introduc$ at a d9n]1 dance1 !at] p>ty1 or o!r social function4 ,if a woman drops h] bag or gloves & !y are retriev$ by a pass+ man1 x is necess>y only to smile & say ,?ank y4 ,no fur!r conv]sation is p]missible4 ,b if a man saves h] f "s grave dang]1 su* z be+ ?r[n d[n by a horse1 or run ov] by a c>1 x is n only necess>y = h] to ?ank him b ! woman %\ld ask1 ,may ,i h ! pleasure ( kn[+ to :om ,i am indebt$8 ,to (f] fur!r expression ( h] obligation ! woman w\ld lat] s5d "s male memb] ( h] family1 a bro!r or husb&1 to ! home ( ! man :o has be5 ( s]vice to h]4 ,%e %\ld nev] (f] money 9 appreciation ( ! s]vice1 unless x is evid5t t he is a work+ man2 & ev5 !n %e %\ld use tact4 ,su* c\rtesies z assi/+ to pick up bundles t h dropp$ to ! gr\nd1 op5+ a door t has /uck or giv+ desir$ in=mation1 require only ! conv5tional ,?ank y4 ,no c\rtesy1 h[ev] slight1 %\ld be accept$ )\t evid5ce ( gratification1 ev5 ?\gh x be b a slight smile4 ,,rais+ ,,! ,,hat ,:5 b[+ to a woman or 9 ackn[l$gm5t ( a greet+1 :5 walk+ ) a woman & b[+ to ano!r man ( 8 acqua9tance1 a g5tleman raises 8 hat4 ,simil>ly1 :5 b[+ to a man :o is accompani$ by a woman1 ! c\rtesy is obs]v$ & also :5 a man is walk+ ) ano!r man :o lifts 8 hat 9 greet+s to a fri5d1 :e!r or n t fri5d is kn[n to him p]sonally4 ,! hat is also rais$ :5ev] a g5tleman (f]s a civility to a lady1 :e!r %e be fri5d or /rang]4 ,eld]ly m51 sup]iors 9 (fice1 cl]gym5 & m5 ( di/9ction are entitl$ to ! c\rtesy ( lift+ ! hat4 ,hat 9 h& goes ?r\gh ! l& say ! ,g]mans4 ,& ,cap 9 h& nev] did any h>m is ! gem we f9d among ! ,italian prov]bs4 ,:5 9 d\bt1 raise y\r hat4 ,surely x is bett] to be too polite 7if su* a ?+ 7 possible7 ?an to be rudely disc\rte\s to someone4 ,! "q ( :e!r or n ! hat %\ld be remov$ 9 ! elevator is p]plex+4 ,"s cont5d t ! elevator is ! same z a small room 9 a private home1 & !re=e t ! hat %\ld be remov$4 ,o!rs j z positively decl>e t ! elevator is ! same z ! /reet1 & t x is unnecess>y to raise ! hat4 ,! "q ( drafts & colds 9 ! head h ent]$ into ! discussion--b ultimately all writ]s ( etiquette rea* ! same conclusion3 z ! elevator is s small & boa/s a ceil+1 x may be consid]$ 9 ! same class z a room1 & ! polite man w keep 8 head uncov]$--especially :ile !re are wom5 9 x4 ,! man :o is v susceptible to colds may lift 8 hat ^u ent]+ ! c> & replace x imm$iately4 ,b x is n c\rte\s to reta9 ! hat entirely4 ,,h[ ,,to ,,raise ,,! ,,hat ,x is n en\gh to "k :5 to raise ! hat1 "o mu/ also "k ! accept$ mann] ( do+ x4 ,pr(\nd & elaborate b[s are old-fa%ion$ & un-,am]ican4 ,:ile lift+ ! hat "o %\ld incl9e ! head slightly & smile4 ,b x mu/ be rememb]$ t ! unmann]ly habit ( t\*+ ! hat1 in/ead ( lift+ x is an indication ( %e] laz9ess & a lack ( gallantry4 ,a hat rais$ half-he>t$ly is a c\rtesy )\t *>m is a prov]b well wor? rememb]+4 ,:y raise y\r hat at all1 if y d x only z an annoy+ duty t mu/ be gott5 ov] z quickly z possible8 ,if y want to be c\rte\s & polite %[ by y\r mann] t y are polite4 ,a graceful lift+ ( ! hat is entirely incompatible ) an unsmil+ face4 ,b bo? toge!r--a s9c]e smile & a graceful lift+ ( ! hat--are mo/ pleas+ to ! p]son = :om ! greet+ is int5d$4 ,_m g5tlem51 :ile speak+ to ladies 9 ! /reet1 /& ) _! heads uncov]$4 ,:ile x is a polite cu/om1 x is dang]\s to ! heal? & !re=e %\ld n be indulg$ 9 except 9 w>m wea!r4 ,! mo/ usual me?od is to lift ! hat ^u meet+1 sl[ly replace x dur+ ! conv]sation or :ile walk+ beside ! lady1 & lift x aga9 :5 tak+ leave ( h]4 ,,9 ,,! ,,/reet ,,c> ,! _w is on :eels6 decl>es a mod]n writ]4 ,ev]yone is go+ some:]e1 & all ! _w is mov+6 ,& ,dr4 ,eliot ( ,h>v>d1 9 a rec5t newspap] article1 deplores ! fact t ! y\ng] g5]ation is los+ 9 c\rtesy & good mann]s t :i* x is ga9+ 9 ?is rapid onw>d ru% ( ! _w's affairs4 ,!re is a g5]al co>s5+ ( mann]s decl>es ! presid5t em]itus ( ,h>v>d ,univ]sity4 ,"y wom5 expect to enc\nt] rud5ess f "y m5 & !y d n res5t x & :5 "o wat*es ! r\gh-&-tumble mann]s ( p 9 subways & /reet c>s e day "o is incl9$ to agree ) him4 ,! cu/om ( rel9qui%+ "o's seat1 = in/ance1 is n z m>k$ z x 0 a decade ago4 ,p]haps ! new suffrage am5dm5ts may h some?+ to d ) x4 ,p]haps ! w> & woman's *ang$ /atus is ! reason4 ,or x may j be a co>s5+ ( mann]s4 ,b :atev] x is1 we d n f9d our "y m5 ( to-day z eag] to rel9qui% _! seats 9 ! c> z !y 7 sev]al ye>s ago4 ,wom5 %\ld nev] indicate by ^w or glance t !y wi% a man to give up 8 seat4 ,b ! woman :o is ill1 or :o is extremely tir$ %\ld feel no hesitancy 9 mak+ ! reque/ if h] ne$ is really great4 ,:5 ! seat is giv51 ! own] %\ld be ?ank$ = 8 k9dness4 ,?is holds true :e!r ! c\rtesy has be5 reque/$ or :e!r x has be5 spontane\s4 ,boi/]\s action 9 ! /reet c> is inexcusable--z x is any:]e else4 ,! girl ( mir?ful disposition :o laughs l\dly may n be do+ x to attract att5tion to h]self b m]ely to give v5t to h] gay spirits1 b x is mo/ unattractive4 ,all noise is wa/e--b x is m ?an wa/e 9 public :]e x reflects ill-bre$+ ^u ! p]son :o is ! p]petrator4 ,,ent]+ ,,! ,,c> ,9 asc5d+ a c> on an omnibus1 a man assi/s ! woman he is escort+ by a slight t\* at ! elb[4 ,he ent]s aft] h]1 f9d+ h] a seat & tak+ 8 place next to h]4 ,if !re is only "o empty place 9 ! c>1 he /&s directly 9 front ( h]1 or z ne> z possible4 ,if a man rel9qui%es 8 seat to ! woman1 ! escort mu/ lift 8 hat & (f] a ^w ( ?anks = ! k9dness4 ,a smile f ! woman is suffici5t4 ,9 leav+ ! c> ! ord] is rev]s$2 ! g5tleman leaves fir/ & assi/s ! woman 9 alight+4 ,a man pays all f>es & fees = ! woman he is escort+4 ,b :5 a man meets a woman 9 ! /reet by *ance & !y bo? ent] a c> toge!r1 he is n "u obligation to pay h] f>e4 ,common s5se has made a rule ( its own 9 ?is matt]1 & "s m5 insi/ ^u pay+ ! f>e ( wom5 !y meet ev5 inside ! c>4 ,b etiquette tells u t only an escort is "u obligation to pay ! f>e ( a woman4 ,,9 ,,! ,,taxicab ,"h aga9 ! woman ent]s fir/1 assi/$ by h] escort4 ,!re is no rule z to :i* side %e %\ld take 9 ! c>2 %e ent]s fir/ & takes ! fur!/ seat1 :e!r x be to ! "r or left4 ,9 alight+ ! man aga9 leads ! way1 assi/+ ! woman to rea* ! gr\nd safely4 ,a ^w ( caution w n be amiss "h4 ,no woman or girl %\ld ride 9 a taxicab ) a man :o is n h] escort1 unless %e has a v good reason = do+ s4 ,x is n conv5tional1 & 9 mo/ cases x is n prud5t4 ,! woman ) a f9e reg>d = all ! little niceties ( good conduct1 :o wi%es to obs]ve ! rules ( etiquette 9 _! true/ s5se1 does n ride 9 a taxicab ) a man1 & all[ him to pay ! bill1 unless he is act+ z h] escort4 ,& ord9>ily1 a g5tleman ( poli%$ mann]s does n ask a lady to ride ) him unless he is tak+ h] to a social function su* z a dance1 =mal d9n] or !at] p>ty4 ,if ! taxicab has d\ble seats1 ! man %\ld take 8 place ) 8 back fac+ ! driv]1 unless he is an old fri5d ( _m ye>s' /&+4 ,a new acqua9tance %\ld n take ! lib]ty ( %>+ a seat 9 ! taxicab ) a "y woman unless %e has p>ticul>ly ask$ him to d s4 ,,"s ,,social ,,errors ,res]ve %\ld n be confus$ ) haught9ess4 ,! fir/ is a necess>y social attribute2 ! second is a regrettable social evil t %\ld be c>efully avoid$4 ,to be haughty1 pr\d1 sup]ior1 is to indicate t y hold ^? b5ea? y 9 contempt4 ,:5 etiquette is bas$ on c\rtesy & a consid]ation = ! rights & com=ts ( a fell[-man1 "o readily sees :y ?is is a mi/ake4 ,a haughty p]son is a conceit$ p]son4 ,a haughty p]son is an unk9d p]son4 ,& !re=e1 a haughty p]son is an uncultur$ p]son4 ,res]ve1 on ! o!r h&1 is a calm dignity t comes ) ! k t "o does & says only :at is entirely correct4 ,x is t c]ta9 well-pois$ sur5ess ( oneself entirely devoid ( all semblance ( pride1--yet ) suffici5t self-respect to attract in/9ctively ! respect ( o!rs4 ,res]ve is t :i* is develop$ only aft] close application to1 & exp]i5ce 91 ! laws ( good conduct4 ,haught9ess is m]ely a %am drap]y us$ to cov] ! defects ( uncultur$ mann]s4 ,! o!r extreme ( haught9ess is self-consci\sness4 ,bo? faults are ! result ( too mu* self-?\ght4 ,to ov]come self-consci\sness1 :i* makes y awkw>d1 easily emb>rass$1 & ill at ease--?9k less ( y\rself6 ,?9k ( ! books y h read1 ( ! p y h met1 ( ! new sc5es y h obs]v$4 ,take a m ke5 int]e/ 9 p4 ,speak to !m4 ,don't be afraid ( !m4 ,b mo/ important ( all1 =get y\rself4 ,& be=e y realize x1 y w h develop$ suffici5t poise & unself-consci\sness to be confid5t to appe> 9 ! mo/ elaborate draw+-room1 among ! mo/ brilliant & highly cultur$ p1 )\t feel+ ! lea/ bit ill at ease4 ,our p]sonal appe>ance is our %[ w9d[ :]e we ins]t :at we h = sale1 & we are judg$ by :at we put !re4 ,if y rememb] to obs]ve ?is bit ( philosophy ( ,orison ,s4 ,m>d5's--n only 9 dress1 b 9 spee* & mann]s & be>+--y w inv>iably d & say & we> :at is correct 9 public4 ,,*apt] ,v ,,at ,,! ,,!at] ,,& ,,! ,,op]a ,,dress ,,at ,,! ,,!at] ,,& ,,op]a ,= a mat9ee a simple /reet dress ( a d>k mat]ial is appropriate except dur+ ! summ] mon?s :5 "o may we> da9ty fabrics & light colors4 ,9 ! ev5+ if "o is to sit 9 a box "o %\ld we> ev5+ dress1 n s elaborate1 h[ev]1 z t worn at a ball or dance4 ,if "o is to sit 9 ! or*e/ra full or semi-ev5+ attire is appropriate b 9 ! *eap] seats su* attire is out ( ord]4 ,pla9 /reet dress %\ld be worn4 ,,ent]+ ,,! ,,!at] ,!re is "o law ( good conduct t _c be ov]-emphasiz$--& t is ! law ( mak+ oneself inconspicu\s4 ,a man or woman :o is ! c5t] ( attraction :5 ! occasion does n m]it x1 _c claim ! di/9ction ( be+ entirely well-br$4 ,!re seems to be a c]ta9 dignifi$ simplicity & mode/y 9 dress1 spee* & behavior t di/+ui%es well-br$ p & enables !m to move ) ease & unconsci\s grace among p ( e /atus & position4 ,,arriv+ ,,late ,:e!r x be ! !at]1 op]a1 lecture or "s o!r public ent]ta9m5t1 x is exce$+ly bad =m to arrive late4 ,p :o are consid]ate always make x a po9t to arrive five or t5 m9utes be=e ! h\r set = ! p]=mance4 ,:5 "o is unavoidably deta9$ & rea*es ! !at] aft] ! curta9 has be5 rais$1 x is polite to rema9 at ! re> ( ! auditorium until ! fir/ int]mission4 ,x is p]missible to take "o's place quickly & quietly :ile ! audi5ce is applaud+2 b x is rude & inconsid]ate to attempt to f9d y\r place :ile ! p]=m]s are on ! /age & ! att5tion ( ! audi5ce has be5 fix$4 ,x is good =m = ! man or woman :o arrives late to excuse himself or h]self to ! p :o are di/urb$ :ile ! vacant place is be+ rea*$4 ,"o may say1 ,i am sorry to di/urb y1 or1 ,p>don me4 ,^? :o are seat$ %\ld rise to all[ passage if ! place is v n>r[1 b if !re is suffici5t room = !m to pass )\t /umbl+ x is bett] = ^? :o are already seat$ to keep _! places1 draw+ aside to facilitate matt]s = ! new-com]s4 ,,ab\t ,,wraps ,x is cu/om>y = a woman to slip (f h] wrap 9 ! lobby & c>ry x on h] arm to h] place1 :]e x may ei!r be plac$ ov] ! back ( h] *air or fold$ 9 h] lap4 ,"s big !at]s n[ h *eck+ rooms = wom51 :]e wraps may be left until aft] ! p]=mance4 ,o!r !at]s arrange = a wrap-*eck+ s]vice 9 ! ladies' dress+-room4 ,individual pref]5ce mu/ decide :e!r ! wrap %all be *eck$ or kept ) "o4 ,b to /& up aft] ! play has begun1 & leisurely dive/ oneself ( "o's wraps1 is a brea* ( good mann]s4 ,if h] wrap is a light "o a woman may keep x on until %e is seat$ & !n slip x (f h] %\ld]s & let x fall ov] ! back ( h] *air4 ,hat & veil are usually remov$ aft] "o has be5 com=tably seat$4 ,or1 if "o pref]s1 !y may be *eck$ 9 ! dress+-room4 ,9 ! ev5+1 :5 decollete is worn ) an ev5+ veil & no hat1 ! veil may be dropp$ ov] ! %\ld]s & kept ?r\gh\t ! ev5+4 ,a v common fault is to beg9 to put on wraps & hats be=e ! p]=mance is ov]4 ,?is is rude to ! p]=m]s & unju/ to ! p ar\nd y4 ,wraps %\ld n be t\*$ until ! curta9 has fall5 = ! la/ "t1 ev5 ?\gh "o is anxi\s to leave4 ,polit5ess is a vital law ( good conduct1 & c]ta9ly no?+ c\ld be m impolite ?an to int]rupt an actor or lectur] by fuss+ ) clo?+4 ,g5tlem5 usually *eck _! hats & coats 9 ! lobby2 o!rwise !y remove !m bo? be=e tak+ _! places4 ,! hat is deposit$ "u ! *air1 & ! coat may ei!r be fold$ & plac$ ov] ! knees1 or ov] ! back ( ! seat4 ,,ord] ,,( ,,prec$5ce ,!re seems to be "s d\bt z to ! correct ord] ( prec$5ce ^u ent]+ & leav+ ! !at] or conc]t hall4 ,"s au?orities on etiquette claim t ! correct ord] is = ! u%] to lead ! way to ! seats1 ! lady foll[+ imm$iately beh9d him1 & aft] ! lady1 h] escort4 ,b m mod]n usage has *ang$ ?is ord] ( prec$5ce4 ,to-day x is correct = ! u%] to lead ! way1 a few feet ahead ( ! g5tleman4 ,imm$iately beh9d ! g5tleman foll[s ! lady4 ,! reason = ?is *ange is t x enables ! g5tleman to /op be=e _! places & h& ! lady to h] seat4 ,o!rwise ?is duty devolves ^u ! u%]4 ,h[ev]1 z ! lady prec$es ! g5tleman 9 almo/ ev]y?+ else1 x is safe to assume t bo? me?ods ( prec$5ce giv5 above are correct4 ,"o ?+ is c]ta9--x is absolutely incorrect = lady & g5tleman to walk d[n ! aisle toge!r1 arm 9 arm4 ,,be=e ,,! ,,play ,^u ent]+ a !at] or conc]t hall a few mom5ts be=e ! curta9 is drawn1 "o becomes imm$iately consci\s ( ! g5tle buzz ( voices ?r\gh\t ! audi5ce4 ,:ile x is entirely p]missible to c>ry on a conv]sation be=e ! play beg9s1 x is mo/ (f5sive to ^? :o are sitt+ ne> = "o to act 9 a noisy1 conspicu\s mann]4 ,l[ tones are a m>k ( cultivation4 ,z a matt] ( fact1 l\d noise ( any k9d is an exhibition ( ?\ghtlessness1 & x c be s easily avoid$ by a little caution4 ,ano!r repreh5sible habit (t5 indulg$ 9 be=e ! play is t ( /&+ up & glanc+ ar\nd "o 9 ! se>* ( a famili> face1 !n nodd+ & smil+ conspicu\sly to a fri5d 9 "s o!r "p ( ! auditorium4 ,aft] hav+ once be5 seat$ "o %\ld rema9 s1 in/ead ( ris+ & di/urb+ o!rs4 ,x is m]ely a =m ( vanity to se>* = fri5ds among ! audi5ce & endeavor to attract _! att5tion4 ,a c]ta9 gayety ( mann] is1 ( c\rse1 9 h>mony ) ! occasion1 b x %\ld be ! k9d ( gayety t is "u control4 ,x is comm5dable to be smil+ & *e]ful--b be c>eful t y d n laugh boi/]\sly or talk l\dly4 ,,:5 ,,! ,,curta9 ,,is ,,drawn ,! fir/ *ord ( ! or*e/ra %\ld be ! sign = absolute quiet 9 ! !at]4 ,!re c be no?+ q z rude z cont9u+ a conv]sation :ile ! musicians are do+ _! be/ to ent]ta9 y4 ,usually1 :5 ! or*e/ra beg9s1 programs are ha/ily op5$ & scann$4 ,?is causes an unpleasant ru/l+ s\nd t m>s ! effect ( ! music & is sometimes v di/urb+ to music-lov]s :o are sitt+ ne> y4 ,! "t to glance ?r\gh ! program is :ile y are wait+ = ! play to beg91 & be=e ! musicians h tak5 _! places4 ,!n x %\ld n be ref]r$ to aga9 until dur+ int]mission4 ,p :o arrive :ile ! or*e/ra is play+ %\ld be p>ticul>ly quiet4 ,c>e %\ld be tak5 t *airs are n clatt]$ or all[$ to drop noisily4 ,,dur+ ,,! ,,p]=mance ,x h>dly seems necess>y to say t talk+ or cont9u$ :isp]+ dur+ a p]=mance is ill-br$ & rude4 ,"y p are mo/ at fault 9 ?is matt]4 ,!y mu/ le>n to curb _! en?usiasms & criticisms until aft] ! p]=mance or dur+ ! int]missions4 ,! intellig5t li/5] nev] int]rupts decl>es an em95t au?ority4 ,complete quiet %\ld be ma9ta9$ dur+ a p]=mance or conc]t2 all talk+ or :isp]+ is int]ruption4 ,beat+ "t to ! music1 :i/l+ or ru/l+ programs are also unmann]ly4 ,if anyone ne> y is inconsid]ate en\gh to talk or hum dur+ ! p]=mance1 x is entirely prop] to turn & 9 quiet tones reque/ t he or %e be m quiet4 ,x is necess>y1 ?\gh t y d n speak 9 a curt or (f5sive mann] t w cause antagonism on ! "p ( ! /rang]4 ,a k9d reque/ always meets ) an imm$iate response4 ,y might say1 ,p>don me4 ,d y m9d speak+ a little l[]8 or ,w\ld y m9d speak+ m quietly8 ,x is polite1 also1 to (f] a reason1 z ,i _c he> v well4 ,w y please speak m s(tly8 ,if ! p]son ?us address$ complies ) y\r reque/ & answ]s y politely1 y %\ld ackn[l$ge x ) a v c\rte\s ,?ank y4 ,b !re %\ld be no fur!r conv]sation dur+ ! p]=mance4 ,,! ,,(f5d+ ,,hat ,! polite woman removes h] hat z soon z %e is com=tably seat$4 ,to we> a hat t ob/ructs ! view ( ! p beh9d is inconsid]ate--& any?+ t is inconsid]ate is also ill-br$4 ,if y f9d t x is necess>y to ask ! woman sitt+ be=e y to remove h] hat1 be sure t y c\* y\r reque/ 9 t]ms ( c>eful polit5ess4 ,?is is v important4 ,! cultur$ man or woman is polite at all times1 & especially s :5 rem9d+ someone ( a polit5ess t has be5 ov]look$4 ,x %\ld be rememb]$ t a he>ty smile & a fri5dly mann] g a long way 9 w9n+ a simil> response4 ,p>don me1 madam1 b may ,i ask t y remove y\r hat8 is ! =m usually us$4 ,b a bett] way is to (f] "s explanation1 z1 ,i am sorry to di/urb y1 b y\r hat is 9 my way4 ,w y k9dly remove x8 ,! simple =m ,w y please remove y\r hat8 is suffici5t if x is accompani$ by a pleasant smile4 ,b "u no circum/ances is a curt1 ,take (f y\r hat p]missible4 ,if "o hesitates to speak to a /rang] he or %e may call ! u%] & reque/ him to ask ! (f5d] to remove h] hat4 ,! woman ?us address$ may1 ^u comply+ ) ! reque/1 ei!r smile & rema9 sil5t1 or say simply1 ,yes1 inde$4 ,o!r =ms frequ5tly us$ are ,c]ta9ly1 ,i am sorry1 or1 ,p>don me4 ,! two latt] =ms are p]haps ! be/1 = !y indicate t ! (f5d] realizes h] lack ( polit5ess & is sorry4 ,,applause ,clapp+ h&s is a natural language ( delight4 ,v "y infants clap _! h&s :5 !y are happy4 ,*ildr5 clap _! h&s to express _! pleasure4 ,& old] p clap _! h&s to %[ appreciation & enjoym5t4 ,b /amp+ ( feet1 :i/l+1 or noisy acclamation ( any k9d is bad =m4 ,?is may seem sup]flu\s 9 a book ( etiquette1 b x is surpris+ h[ _m o!rwise cultur$ m5 /amp noisily or :i/le :5 some?+ said or done ^u ! /age p>ticul>ly pleases !m4 ,ill-tim$ or cont9ual applause is di/urb+ to p]=m]s & audi5ce alike4 ,indiscrim9ate h&-clapp+ is n only annoy+1 b reflects poor judgm5t ^u ! (f5d]4 ,:5 y feel t an actor or lectur] m]its applause1 give him a %ort & he>ty h&-clapp+1 b d n make ! mi/ake ( clapp+ noisily & excessively ea* "t ! opportunity pres5ts itself4 ,x %\ld be p>ticul>ly rememb]$ t ill-tim$ applause h9d]s ! progress ( ! p]=m]s4 ,,dur+ ,,int]mission ,at a !at] p>ty1 :5 !re are sev]al m5 & wom5 9 ! p>ty1 ! m5 may take advantage ( ! int]mission to leave _! places = a few mom5ts4 ,b !y mu/ n indulge 9 ?is privilege m ?an once dur+ a p]=mance1 if !y wi% to be polite & consid]ate to ! ladies4 ,& !y %\ld n g )\t excus+ !mselves to ! ladies :om !y are escort+4 ,:5 a "y man & woman are toge!r1 x is ! height ( ill-bre$+ = him to leave h] alone dur+ int]mission4 ,if he wi%es wat] or c&y or programs1 ! u%] w att5d to x = him4 ,he mu/ n leave ! lady alone unless %e reque/s him to get some?+ = h]4 ,a g5tleman alone may1 ( c\rse1 come & g z he pleases dur+ int]mission4 ,if "o mu/ walk pa/ /rang]s to leave "o's seat = int]mission1 or if "o wi%es to leave be=e ! p]=mance is ov]1 a c\rte\s apology mu/ be made to ! p :o are di/urb$4 ,i beg y\r p>don1 or1 ,may ,i tr\ble y to pass8 are ! =ms mo/ frequ5tly us$4 ,:5 ! aisle is rea*$1 x is polite to ackn[l$ge ! obligation by smil+ & say+1 ,?ank y4 ,illu/ration3 ,photo by ,george ,h4 ,davis1 ,jr4 ,c\rtesy ( ! ,woman's ,home ,companion4 ,,! ,,buffet ,,lun* ,! in=mality ( ! buffet lun* p]mits ! use ( pap] napk9s b ! ho/ess may use l95 ones if %e pref]s ,dur+ int]mission x is p]missible to /ep across ! aisle or into ano!r box to greet a fri5d4 ,(t5 introductions are made1 b !y are n =mal & ne$ n ga9 future recognition4 ,z soon z ! curta9 beg9s to rise1 ! call] mu/ return to 8 own place4 ,,leav+ ,,! ,,!at] ,if y wi% y\r acqua9tances to recognize y\r *>m & cultivation1 y %\ld conduct y\rself at ! conclusion ( ! p]=mance ) ! same quiet dignity t y obs]v$ :5 y ent]$ ! !at] & :ile y 7 wait+ = x to beg94 ,speak 9 l[ tones1 smile b d n laugh1 discuss ! play b d x 9 s quiet a mann] t no "o b y\r companion w he> y4 ,x is bad =m to ga!r 9 small gr\ps & discuss ! play 9 l\d tones4 ,leave ! !at] z quickly z possible4 ,! att5dants are wait+ to close x4 ,x usually takes a long "t = a l>ge !at] to be empti$ because _m inconsid]ate p block ! aisles & loit] at ! re> ( ! auditorium4 ,z soon z ! curta9 has fall5 = ! la/ "t1 ga!r y\r wraps toge!r1 slip !m on if x is conv5i5t & move quickly d[n ! aisle to ! re>4 ,!n pass quickly out ( ! !at] & out ( ! way4 ,b if y /ill c>ry y\r wraps1 y may ei!r g to ! dress+-room or rema9 a mom5t or two 9 ! lobby until y h arrang$ !m4 ,%akespe>e said1 ,all ! _w's a /age4 ,if ?is is true1 d we n owe ! /age ! same c\rtesy1 respect & honor t we owe ! _w ( fell[-m58 ,be z well-mann]$ & c\rte\s at ! !at] & op]a z y w\ld 9 ! mo/ fa/idi\s draw+-room4 ,,*apt] ,,vi ,,hotel ,,etiquette ,,at ,,! ,,hotel ,!re is a v di/9ct code ( e?ics by :i* ! lady & g5tleman mu/ be gov]n$ :5 /opp+ at a hotel4 ,x is a mi/ak5 idea t "o may act z "o pleases1 m]ely because ! hotel is public4 ,b x is z important to rememb] "o's social obligations z x is 9 ! home ( a fri5d4 ,inde$1 ! hotel is "o place :]e m5 & wom5 are mo/ likely to make emb>rass+ blund]s & commit humiliat+ mi/akes4 ,?is is especially true ( ! man or woman f a small t[n :o /ops = a day or two at a big hotel 9 ! city4 ,only by kn[+ ?or\ghly ! laws ( good conduct1 z adapt$ to hotel life1 c "o expect to move smoo?ly & ) ease ?r\gh its (t5 puzzl+ social intricacies4 ,at home1 or ev5 :5 visit+ at a fri5d's home1 a boor may rema9 undetect$4 ,b h[ quickly ! tru? appe>s aft] he has regi/]$ at a hotel6 ,!re are num]\s little te/s ( good bre$+ t betray him2 ! s]vants !mselves soon discov] :e!r or n he is cultivat$1 well-br$4 ,& !y inv>iably treat him accord+ly4 ,! def9ite rules w be giv5 9 ! foll[+ p>agraphs4 ,b = "o's g5]al conduct x %\ld be rememb]$ solely t ! hospitality ( a hotel is no less wor?y ( c\rtesy & consid]ation ?an ! hospitality ext5d$ by a fri5d4 ,,! ,,woman ,,gue/ ,to-day wom5 /op at hotels mu* m frequ5tly ?an !y did a decade ago4 ,! w> br\ght ) x a wid5$ horizon = ! wom5 ( ,am]ica1 & !y travel all ov] ! c\ntry on political1 pr(essional & bus9ess ent]prises z well z = pleasure4 ,x is1 consequ5tly1 necess>y = !m to /op (t5 at hotels2 ?us !y mu/ "k exactly h[ to conduct !mselves4 ,"s hotels1 9 small] t[ns1 h ladies' entrances4 ,! woman visitor %\ld fir/ asc]ta9 :e!r or n !re are su* entrances1 & if s %\ld gov]n h] actions accord+ly4 ,b 9 l>ge cities1 hotels g5]ally h b "o l>ge entrance :]e ! woman may ent] )\t emb>rassm5t4 ,bus9ess (t5 takes ! mod]n woman into /range t[ns1 & !re is no reason :y %e %\ld feel ! lea/ hesitancy 9 /opp+ at a hotel--provid+ %e kn[s h[ to conduct h]self4 ,h& baggage %\ld be rel9qui%$ at ! door to att5dants ( ! hotel4 ,! woman %\ld make h] way imm$iately to ! desk-cl]k1 regi/]1 & !n foll[ ! page assign$ to h]1 to h] room4 ,x is n good =m to loit] 9 ! lobby be=e go+ to "o's room aft] "o has regi/]$4 ,a wise plan is to call ! hotel on ! telephone be=eh&1 reque/+ !m to res]ve a room or suite ( rooms z ! case may be4 ,?is w elim9ate any possibility ( hav+ to leave ! hotel because !re is no room4 ,x is always a wise plan = a woman to res]ve a room 9 advance1 especially if %e is to arrive late at night s9ce c]ta9 ho/elries refuse to admit wom5 aft] a c]ta9 h\r4 ,! day ( ! *ap]on is practically ov]1 except 9 ! cases ( v "y girls4 ,b wom5 to-day travel v (t5 9 ! company ( _! maids4 ,:e!r "o d\ble room or two s+le rooms adjo9+ ea* o!r are *os51 dep5ds ^u ! degree ( intimacy betwe5 mi/ress & maid1 & also ^u conv5i5ce & accommodation at ! hotel4 ,! usual =m is to res]ve two adjo9+ rooms4 ,a woman nev] /ops at a hotel )\t baggage4 ,ev5 ?\gh %e int5ds to /ay only ov]-night1 %e %\ld c>ry a small h&bag ) h]4 ,a woman travel+ across c\ntry ) a great deal ( baggage may h h] trunks s5t on ahead to ! hotel if %e res]ves rooms previ\sly4 ,on no occasion %\ld ! woman approa* ! cl]k's desk lad5 ) valises & bags4 ,a hotel att5dant %\ld take !m f ! c> & deposit !m on ! floor ne> ! desk2 or ! gue/'s *auffeur %\ld deposit !m at ! entrance ( ! hotel1 to be att5d$ to by "o ( ! hotel att5dants4 ,,receiv+ ,,mascul9e ,,gue/s ,a g5tleman call+ ^u a lady :o is /opp+ at a hotel1 gives 8 "n to ! desk cl]k4 ,x is n necess>y to (f] a c>d4 ,! =m 9 mo/ common usage is1 ,mr4 ,rob]ts to see ,miss ,nelson4 ,! cl]k w call ,miss ,nelson on ! telephone or w direct him to "o ( ! telephones 9 ! lobby1 & advise h] ( ! visitor4 ,if %e is ill & does n wi% to see him1 %e w say1 ,please tell ,mr4 ,rob]ts ,i am indispos$ & ,i am sorry t ,i _c see him to-day4 ,b %e %\ld n refuse to see a visitor )\t (f]+ "s sort ( legitimate excuse4 ,if %e is n ready to greet visitors1 %e may say to ! cl]k1 ,tell ,mr4 ,rob]ts ,i %all be d[n/airs 9 a half-h\r4 ,t is ! maximum am\nt ( "t x is p]missible to keep a visitor wait+4 ,ladies receive ! g5tlem5 :o call on !m 9 ! p>lor or reception room ( ! hotel4 ,!y may be hatless & gloveless1 if !y wi%1 obs]v+ ! same rules ( etiquette t !y w\ld obs]ve 9 _! draw+-room at home4 ,b if ! visits are entirely ( a bus9ess nature1 x is always advisable = ! woman to we> a hat4 ,to welcome a man 9 "o's room is to break a conv5tion t has _m ye>s ( /rict practice to uphold x4 ,x is a s]i\s blund] 9 hotel etiquette4 ,if a g5tleman calls ^u a lady at a hotel1 :e!r x be 9 a bus9ess or social capacity1 & f9ds t %e is n 91 he may leave 8 c>d ) ! desk cl]k to be =w>d$ to h]4 ,x is necess>y1 h[ev]1 t he write on ! back ( ! c>d = :om x is int5d$2 = ! memories ( desk cl]ks are n q z ret5tive z "s ( u ?9k !y are1 & !re is a possibility ( ! c>d be+ s5t to ! wrong gue/4 ,,mak+ ,,fri5ds ,,at ,,! ,,hotel ,hotels h ! al>m+ prop5sity ( mak+ "o feel extremely lonely1 especially if "o is /opp+ !re all by oneself4 ,& !re is ! v /rong temptation to =get all ab\t conv5tionalities & speak to ! fri5dly-look+ old g5tleman at ! next table1 or ! *>m+ "y woman 9 ! dress+-room4 ,b ev]yone1 & ! woman especially1 %\ld be extremely c>eful 9 mak+ fri5ds & acqua9tances at ! hotel4 ,self-introductions are n unusual at ! hotel4 ,9 ! d9+-room1 9 ! lobby1 9 ! re/-rooms1 conv]sations are (t5 />t$ t result 9 self-introductions & subsequ5t acqua9tance%ips4 ,b "o %\ld be prud5t4 ,x is n wise to g beyond ! usual civilities ( greet+s & casual conv]sations or to take anyone into y\r confid5ce4 ,:ile conduct+ y\rself ) all due c\rtesy & consid]ation = ! hospitality ext5d$ by ! hotel1 x is important to rememb] t aft] all ! hotel is n a private home1 b a tempor>y "o = travel]s--= ! public4 ,! conv5tions y obs]ve 9 public mu/ !re=e also be obs]v$ at ! hotel4 ,/rang]s /ill rema9 /rang]s1 ev5 ?\gh y sleep "u ! same ro( ) !m4 ,if a g5tleman becomes int]e/$ 9 ano!r g5tleman1 ei!r 9 ! hotel lobby or ! d9+-room1 & he wi%es to become acqua9t$ ) him ei!r = bus9ess or social reasons1 he may reque/ ! manag] ( ! hotel to make ! necess>y introduction4 ,he may also indulge 9 ! self-introduction1 b x is nev] z effective z ! introduction made by a ?ird p]son4 ,,h[ ,,to ,,regi/] ,x is n consid]$ dignifi$ = a woman travel+ alone to sign h]self 9 ! hotel regi/] )\t ! title ( ,mrs4 or ,miss4 ,a m>ri$ woman %\ld regi/] z ,mrs4 ,h>ris ,k4 ,j5n+s1 an unm>ri$ woman z ,miss ,mildr$ ,j5n+s4 ,x is decid$ly bad =m to sign oneself ,millie ,j5n+s1 or ,flossie ,j5n+s = ,flor5ce4 ,! full fir/ & la/ "n %\ld be writt5 out & prec$$ by ! correct title ( ,miss or ,mrs4 ,only ! elde/ daught]1 or only daught]1 ( a family may sign h]self1 ,miss ,j5n+s4 ,:5 travel+ toge!r1 a "m & daught] regi/] z ,mrs4 ,h>ris ,k4 ,j5n+s1 ,miss ,mildr$ ,j5n+s4 ,ev5 a v "y girl is regi/]$ 9 ?is mann]4 ,a small boy's "n appe>s 9 ! regi/] z ,ma/] ,edw>d ,j5n+s4 ,a husb& & wife regi/] z ,mr4 & ,mrs4 ,h>ris ,k4 ,j5n+s4 ,to use ! expression ,mr4 ,h>ris ,k4 ,j5n+s & wife is consid]$ v bad =m inde$4 ,only ^? :o are ignorant ( ! be/ rules ( hotel etiquette make ?is blund]4 ,aft] ! "n1 ! t[n & /ate f :i* ! visitors h come %\ld be writt5 9 ! regi/]4 ,?us ! complete entry ( a "y lady w\ld be1 ,miss ,mildr$ ,j5n+s1 ,cambridge1 ,mass4 ,a g5tleman w\ld regi/] 9 ?is mann]1 ,mr4 ,h>ris ,k4 ,j5n+s1 #fha ,fif? ,ave41 ,new ,york4 ,ev5 if he lives 9 ,new ,york & /ops at a hotel 9 t city1 he mu/ write ,new ,york aft] 8 "n4 ,nor is x correct = him to omit ! ,mr4 f be=e 8 "n4 ,deep fl\ri%es & illegible h&writ+ %\ld be avoid$4 ,! well-br$ man or woman regi/]s neatly 9 a cle>1 small1 legible script4 ,,9 ,,! ,,public ,,d9+-,,room ,a g5tleman is kn[n by ! way he eats1 decl>$ a well-kn[n writ] rec5tly 9 "o ( 8 newspap] articles4 ,& ?is is p>ticul>ly true 9 ! hotel d9+-room1 :]e "o is judg$--or misjudg$--by "o's table mann]s2 & "o %\ld rememb] to make !m z gracefully correct z if ! d9n] 7 a mo/ =mal "o 9 a private home4 ,if y drop a =k or o!r "p ( ! table s]vice1 d n /oop to pick x up4 ,simply ignore ! incid5t & leave x to ! wait] to att5d to4 ,a mo/ repreh5sible habit is to pick up a knife or =k t has be5 dropp$1 wipe x c>efully ) ! napk91 & proce$ to use x4 ,! correct ?+ to d is to leave ! =k or knife on ! floor :]e x has fall5 & reque/ ano!r "o f ! wait] 9 *>ge4 ,x is optional ) ! ladies :e!r or n !y we> _! hats to d9n]4 ,9 ! d9+-rooms ( ! l>g] hotels1 h[ev]1 wom5 g5]ally d n appe> hatless4 ,ev5 ?\gh "o is a p]man5t gue/ & a special table is res]v$ = "o ea* ev5+1 x is bett] to we> a hat to d9n] at ! hotel4 ,l\d laugh+ & talk+ reflect ill-mann]s4 ,& ?is applies n only to ! d9+-room1 b to ! private rooms z well4 ,z a rule1 ! p>titions 9 hotels are ?9 & talk+ t is ! lea/ bit l\d c be he>d 9 ! next room4 ,= ?is reason1 x is also disc\rte\s to play any musical in/rum5t at su* times ( ! day :5 x w\ld be likely to di/urb ^? ^: rooms adjo94 ,at ! table1 conv]sation may be conduct$ only :5 l[1 natural tones ( voice are us$4 ,l\d talk+ %\ld be avoid$4 ,gue/s :o wi% to eat 9 _! rooms %\ld reque/ t a wait] be s5t to ! room ) a m5u4 ,! ord] is giv51 & ! wait] w see t x is satisfactorily fill$4 ,= ?is s]vice he %\ld receive an extra fee f ! gue/4 ,,hotel ,,/ation]y ,hotels inv>iably place a supply ( writ+ pap] 9 ! room4 ,?is is meant = ! bus9ess or social correspond5ce ( ! gue/4 ,m ( ?is pap] is usually f\nd 9 ! writ+-room4 ,d n wa/e ! hotel /ation]y4 ,use x only if y h to4 ,y w\ld n wa/e ! /ation]y provid$ = y\r use at ! home ( y\r fri5d4 ,!n :y take advantage ( ! c\rtesies ext5d$ by y\r hotel8 ,j z "o adapts oneself to ! r\t9e at ! home ( a fri5d1 s %\ld "o accu/om & adapt oneself to ! rules & regulations ( ! hotel4 ,nev] take any ( ! hotel /ation]y away ) y4 ,x is z wrong 9 pr9ciple z c>ry+ away "o ( ! ,turki% t[els4 ,use only z mu* z y ne$ = y\r correspond5ce1 & leave ! re/ beh9d y4 ,,reg>d+ ,,! ,,s]vants ,arrogance is only ano!r =m ( selfi% pride4 ,! man or woman :o is cultur$ is nev] arrogant4 ,aft] all1 isn't x %am--%am adopt$ to cov] ! defects ( mann] & be>+8 ,if y are dissatisfi$ ) "s s]vice p]=m$ by "o ( ! hotel att5dants1 if "o ( !m is inatt5tive to y\r wants or negligible 9 8 duties1 compla9 to ! manag]4 ,d n scold ! s]vants !mselves1 or ord] !m 9 a p]emptory mann] to d su* & su* a ?+ correctly4 ,! greate/ vulg>ity--& y w d well to rememb] ?is--is to look d[n ^u a p]son z inf]ior m]ely because he or %e has to e>n 8 or h] own liv+4 ,!re is no?+ to be a%am$ ( 9 good1 hone/1 fai?ful toil4 ,b ! p]son :o ridicules x has a great deal to be a%am$ (4 ,be consid]ate to ! hotel att5dants4 ,d n expect ! maid to come hurry+ to y\r room :5 y r+ at "o o'clock 9 ! morn+4 ,! gue/ :o is k9d & ?\ghtful w receive twice z mu* s]vice z ! p]son :o is con/antly compla9+ & scold+4 ,,leav+ ,,! ,,hotel ,:5 y are ready to leave ! hotel1 call an att5dant to c>ry y\r baggage d[n to ! entrance4 ,d n attempt to c>ry x d[n y\rself1 :e!r y are a man or woman1 unless y h only "o or two small valises4 ,diff]5t hotels h diff]5t rules ) reg>d to keys4 ,"s require t ! key be return$ to ! desk cl]k4 ,o!rs require t x be left 9 ! room4 ,:5 9 d\bt1 ! be/ =m is to return ! key at ! desk be=e ask+ ! ca%i] = "o's bill4 ,aft] ?is is paid1 r+ = a s]vant to call a c>2 nev] d ?is y\rself4 ,tipp+1 ?\gh an entirely un-,am]ican cu/om1 is /ill widely practic$4 ,:5 leav+ ! hotel1 x is necess>y to tip1 or fee1 ^? hotel att5dants :o h be5 ( s]vice4 ,,*apt] ,,vii ,,travel ,,etiquette ,,! ,,re/less ,,urge ,,( ,,travel ,man is ess5tially a re/less be+4 ,ev] s9ce ! _w began1 m5 & wom5 h f\nd !mselves gr[+ impati5t1 eag] = new sc5es1 new faces1 new exp]i5ces4 ,fir/ !y pack$ up _! few belong+s & mov$ by foot to ano!r place a few miles away4 ,!n !y took d[n _! t5ts & put !m up 9 "s o!r place4 ,soon we f9d !m build+ h\ses1 & at diff]5t p]iods mov+ to o!r h\ses4 ,gradually1 ?r\gh ! ages1 z man's desire = wid] exp]i5ces & a wid] radius = travel & exploration develop$1 ! horse-drawn c>riage appe>$1 !n ! /eamboat1 !n ! locomotive1 ! surface c>1 ! subway1 ! automobile & airplane4 ,diog5es ) 8 lant]n c\ld n f9d an hone/ man1 & he w\ld h j z difficult a task to-day to f9d a man1 woman or *ild :o does n love to travel4 ,ev]yone likes to see new sc5es1 meet new p1 enjoy new exp]i5ces2 & ! easie/ way to accompli% ?is is ?r\gh travel+4 ,,! ,,cu/oms ,,( ,,c\ntries ,9 ,am]ica1 :]e almo/ ev]yone is some?+ ( a t\ri/1 ! etiquette ( travel mu/ n be neglect$4 ,& x is p>ticul>ly important t ! cu/oms ( =eign c\ntries be respect$1 especially n[ t ! _w is becom+ "o great family & int]c\rse among ! nations is increas+ e day4 ,someh[1 we ,am]icans feel t !re is no o!r c\ntry 9 ! _w q z wond]ful z our de> ,unit$ ,/ates4 ,!re is1 ( c\rse1 no reason :y we %\ld n believe ?is2 b x is bad =m & poor judgm5t to %[ by action & spee* 9 o!r c\ntries t y believe x4 ,! man or woman :o affects a sup]cili\s disda9 ( all =eign c\ntries & _! =ms & cu/oms1 is n impress+ ! natives ) 8 va/ sup]iority1 b is really conv9c+ !m t he or %e is an ill-br$ simpleton4 ,& ev5 our belov$ ,am]ica is h>dly p]fect en\gh to w>rant a great deal ( boa/+4 ,9 travel+ abroad1 e national prejudice1 e cu/om ( e little t[n or village1 %\ld be obs]v$ z ne>ly z possible4 ,:5 9 ,rome d z ! ,romans d is ! true/ c\rtesy t c be obs]v$ by ^? :o travel4 ,well-br$ & polite p con=m to native cu/oms no matt] h[ /range !y may appe>4 ,& !y d x gracefully1 ) a smile ( fri5dl9ess r ?an "o ( disda94 ,9 h] book ,fe> & ,conv5tionality1 ,elsie ,p>sons relates an incid5t dur+ h] visit to ,tokyo4 ,%e & h] companions 7 ! gue/s ( ,japan4 ,z !y 7 on _! way to ! /ation1 ! natives /ole up furtively & plac$ c>ds 9 _! c>riages4 ,realiz+ t x mu/ be "s native cu/om1 ! occupants ( ! c>riages m]ely smil$ & all[$ ! c>ds to rema94 ,p]haps if !y _h be5 haughty individuals !y might h sc[l$ at ! seem+ intrusion1 ?r[n aside ! c>ds1 & won ! ev]la/+ hate ( ! natives n only = !mselves b = all future ,am]ican t\ri/s4 ,= "o ill-br$ travel] makes x h>d = ! next p :o pass along ! same r\te1 h[ev] c\rte\s !y may be4 ,! be/ way to make a pleasant j\rney is to adapt oneself graci\sly & c\rte\sly to v>y+ circum/ances & conditions4 ,,! ,,travel]',s ,,w>drobe ,x is n wise to ov]burd5 oneself ) num]\s clo!s :5 travel+4 ,w>drobes c always be repl5i%$ if ! necessity arises1 9 o!r c\ntries1 & !re is really no ne$ to imp$e "o's j\rney ) num]\s trunks & h&bags t mu/ be con/antly *eck$1 look$ aft] & trac$4 ,_m p h j\rney$ happily all ov] ,europe ) only a suit case or two4 ,wom5 %\ld dress quietly & inconspicu\sly :5 travel+4 ,a d>k1 tailor$ suit ) light bl\ses is 9 excell5t ta/e1 especially :5 worn ) a small d>k turban or toque4 ,9 h] w>drobe %\ld be simple1 b sm>t frocks = ! aft]noon1 an ev5+ g[n1 num]\s fre% bl\ses & p]haps a sport outfit or two4 ,an abundant supply ( fre% und]g>m5ts is ess5tial1 b ev5 ^! c be b\ght dur+ ! trip if ! supply does n hold out4 ,rememb] t x is a wise rule to take too little r ?an too mu*4 ,an exp]i5c$ travel] c usually be di/+ui%$ by ! small am\nt ( luggage he c>ries4 ,! w>drobe ( ! g5tleman travel+ %\ld also be z small z possible4 ,( c\rse ! numb] ( suits & ! quantity ( l95 he takes ) him dep5ds ^u ! l5g? ( 8 trip & ! social activities he expects to indulge 94 ,if ! trip is to be "o ( long duration ! port] w provide a pap] bag 9 :i* ! hat may be plac$4 ,on a trip ( ?is k9d x is p]missible to make oneself at ease by remov+ hat & wraps & lean+ aga9/ a pill[ :i* ! port] w furni% ^u reque/4 ,,9 ,,! ,,tra9 ,an ill-br$ p]son is always kn[n by 8 selfi%ness & disc\rtesy 9 ! tra94 ,he w claim m s]vice & com=t ?an he is entitl$ to4 ,he w scold ! att5dants & make himself g5]ally a nuisance4 ,he w encroa* ^u ! rights ( o!rs1 assume an air ( importance1 & make himself conspicu\s by 8 actions & mann]s4 ,:5 9 ! tra91 be z solicit\s ( ! pass5g]'s com=ts z y w\ld be ( y\r de>e/ fri5d's1 if he or %e 7 travel+ ) y4 ,d n keep y\r w9d[ op5 if y "k t x is caus+ discom=t to o!rs4 ,d n spread y\r h&-luggage into ! aisles :]e o!r pass5g]s w be likely to trip ov] x4 ,x is good nature1 c\rtesy & an affable adaptation to unexpect$ circum/ances t m>k ! lady & g5tleman 9 travel+4 ,if someone op5s a w9d[ t places y 9 a draught or exposes y to fly+ c9d]s or o!r discom=ts1 x is p]missible to reque/ politely t ! w9d[ be l[]$ aga94 ,! c\rte\s man or woman w d s imm$iately )\t impati5ce or annoyance4 ,all boi/]\s behavior1 l\d laugh+ & talk+1 are z repreh5sible 9 ! tra9 z !y are 9 ! draw+-room4 ,composure ( mann] & a calm1 easy grace di/+ui% ! cultur$ travel]4 ,he :o is re/less1 excitable1 fidgety1 :o talks 9 l\d tones1 walks back & =? to ! wat] cool] _m times1 arranges & re>ranges 8 belong+s1 is m]ely adv]tis+ to ! o!r pass5g]s 9 ! tra9 t he is travel+ = ! fir/ "t1 & t he does n "k h[ to conduct himself4 ,x %\ld be rememb]$ t ! railroad tra9 is a public place1 & !re=e x is n correct to discuss family affairs or conv]se l\dly ab\t p :o are abs5t :ile y are travel+ on x4 ,?is habit ( talk+ ab\t p :o are abs5t is mo/ uncivil4 ,h[ (t5 d we ov]he> conv]sations 9 :i* "s un=tunate man or woman is pick$ to pieces by inconsid]ate fri5ds or acqua9tances :o mean no h>m & be> no malice b hav+ no?+ else to talk ab\t1 *oose _! fri5d z ! subject ( _! conv]sation4 ,x is unk9d1 & x is c]ta9ly bad =m4 ,,9 ,,! ,,sleep+ ,,c> ,9 travel+ on ! sleep+ c> ! p]son :o has ! l[] b]? is entitl$ to ! seat fac+ =w>d :ile ! "o ) ! upp] b]? has ! seat fac+ backw>d4 ,if a lady 0 unable to procure a l[] b]? & ! g5tleman b5ea? h] (f]s to ex*ange %e may at discretion accept ! (f]4 ,:5 "o is ready to g to b$ he r+s = ! port] to prep>e ! b]?4 ,9 cr[d$ tra9s x may be "s "t be=e ?is c be done & ! own] ( ! b]? mu/ be pati5t until 8 turn comes4 ,x is c\rte\s to consult "o's seat mate be=e ask+ to h ! b$s made = ! night1 & if "o wi%es to g to b$ e>ly because ( fatigue or slight illness1 he may politely beg ( 8 p>tn] to all[ him to d s4 ,! p]son :o is to sp5d ! night on ! tra9 %\ld provide himself ) a dress+ g[n1 a travel+ toilette case conta9+ ! necess>y accessories su* z bru%es1 soap1 too?-pa/e1 p9s1 etc4 ,"o may dress & undress 9 ! regul> dress+ room b _m p pref] to accompli% ! great] "p ( _! toilette 9 _! b]?s4 ,x is n p]missible to take exclusive possession ( ! dress+-room or to spread "o's belong+s out s z to be 9 ! way ( ! o!r travel]s4 ,,tra9 ,,c\rtesy ,a g5tleman always /eps aside to p]mit a woman to ent] a tra9 fir/4 ,he does n ru% ahead ( h] = a *oice seat1 nor does he op5 a w9d[ ne> h] )\t hav+ fir/ reque/$ & obta9$ h] p]mission to d s4 ,civility ( ! highe/ sort is possible :5 travel+ 9 a tra94 ,"o may be c\rte\s to ! gruff ticket collector & polite to ! bu/l+ expressman4 ,a s(t answ] turne? away wra?--& we usually f9d t a curt1 p]emptory ord] receives response t is no less curt2 b a k9d & c\rte\s reque/ inv>iably receives an imm$iate fri5dly response4 ,?ank y is nev] sup]flu\s1 & x is only ! exce$+ly impolite man :o fails to say x :5 "s s]vice1 no matt] h[ trivial1 has be5 p]=m$ = him4 ,:5 a g5tleman sees t a woman pass5g] is hav+ difficulty 9 rais+ a w9d[1 he ne$ feel no hesitancy 9 (f]+ to assi/ h]4 ,h[ev]1 ! c\rtesy ends :5 ! w9d[ has be5 rais$2 he resumes 8 seat & ! incid5t is clos$4 ,x is incorrect = him to attempt a conv]sation ) h] or to intrude ^u h] 9 any way4 ,! g5tleman %\ld also (f] 8 seat to a woman /&+ 9 an ov]cr[d$ tra91 or to a man v mu* old] ?an himself4 ,a man or woman c>ry+ a *ild %\ld nev] be p]mitt$ to rema9 /&+4 ,a g5tleman nev] all[s a woman to feel incumb5t ^u him = monet>y assi/ance4 ,= in/ance1 if a "y & inexp]i5c$ woman is travel+ alone & seems to be 9 d\bt z to :]e %e w be able to get some?+ to eat1 ! g5tleman may (f] to s5d a port] to take h] ord]4 ,or if no port] c be f\nd1 he may himself get h] a s&wi* & a glass ( milk4 ,b he mu/ absolutely accept ! money exp5d$ = ^! articles1 o!rwise ! "y woman w und\bt$ly feel emb>rass$4 ,,! ,,woman ,,travel] ,wom5 travel ab\t mu* m indep5d5tly to-day ?an ev] be=e4 ,we f9d "y & eld]ly wom5 travel+ across c\ntry = bus9ess purposes1 = relaxation1 & = pleasure4 ,& ?\gh conv5tions are no less /rict ?an !y 7 tw5ty-five ye>s ago1 ^! wom5 :o travel are enjoy+ a mu* wid] & m untrammel$ fre$om ?an _! gr&mo!rs ev] enjoy$4 ,wom5 :o h n _h mu* exp]i5ce 9 travel+1 :o are ignorant ( ! laws ( good conduct :ile en r\te1 are prone to expect a great _m c\rtesies & mu* att5tion f ! tra9 (ficials & f ! g5tlem5 pass5g]s4 ,v (t5 !y make !mselves appe> rude & ill-br$ by _! assum$ mann] ( haught9ess4 ,x is ! quiet1 dignifi$ mann] t comm&s respect2 n ! exact+1 fault-f9d+ & imp]i\s "o t s _m wom5 l to affect4 ,! woman on a tra9 %\ld nev] sacrifice ! com=t ( ! p ar\nd h] = h] own4 ,x is exce$+ly disc\rte\s to insi/ ^u hav+ a w9d[ op51 :5 y "k t o!rs ar\nd y object1 ev5 ?\gh !y are all m54 ,& x is j z disc\rte\s to accept a seat t a g5tleman has k9dly rel9qui%$1 or to accept any o!r c\rtesy1 )\t (f]+ polite ?anks4 ,x is bad =m to get excit$ ov] e little ?+ t happ5s4 ,a two-m9ute delay1 a brief unexpla9$ /op1 is en\gh to make "s wom5 fret & fume4 ,! woman :o travels alone %\ld ma9ta9 a great deal ( dignity & res]ve4 ,%e %\ld n make an acqua9tance ( any fell[-pass5g]s ( ei!r sex1 & %e %\ld n accept c\rtesies f anyone )\t cordial ?anks4 ,b beyond ^? few conv5tional words ( ?anks1 !re %\ld be no conv]sation ) a man or woman %e does n "k4 ,& yet1 :5 ! j\rney is a v long "o1 la/+ p]haps m ?an a day1 :at h>m c x be = a woman to *at a bit ab\t ! sc5]y or ! newe/ be/-sell] ) ! mo!rly look+ woman beside h]8 ,common-s5se is (t5 ! bett] "p ( etiquette4 ,,! ,,woman ,,:o ,,travels ,,) ,,an ,,escort ,:5 a man s]ves z escort to a woman :o is travel+ by tra91 he incurs all exp5ses4 ,he buys h] ticket at ! /ation1 att5ds to ! *eck+ & direct+ ( h] luggage1 c>ries h] h&-bags & sees t %e is com=tably seat$4 ,he pays = all magaz9es & newspap]s t %e wi%es & fees ! port] t has help$ h]4 ,he also buys & pays = all refre%m5ts tak5 dur+ ! trip4 ,a lady inv>iably prec$es h] escort d[n ! aisle ( ! tra94 ,%e takes ! inside seat & leaves ! arrang+ ( ! luggage & wraps to ! g5tleman4 ,he may1 if he excuses himself1 sp5d "p ( ! trip 9 ! smok+ c>1 b x is exce$+ly rude ( him to leave ! lady by h]self ?r\gh\t ! trip4 ,9 fact1 x is wise aft] ! fir/ few h\rs ( travel1 to leave ! lady to h] own devices = %e may want to nap or to read a book4 ,ev5 "o's de>e/ fri5d1 or "o's favorite bro!r c become monoton\s & tiresome aft] f\r or five h\rs ( cont9u\s conv]sation on a noisy tra94 ,,9 ,,! ,,d9+-,,c> ,:5 a man meets a woman on a tra91 & aft] a brief conv]sation1 invites h] into ! d9+-c>1 %e may assume t he wi%es to be ! ho/ & t he w\ld be (f5d$ if %e refus$ to all[ him to pay = h] meal4 ,h[ev]1 ! woman :o travels alone mu/ be extremely circumspect 9 h] conduct1 & %e mu/ n incur monet>y obligations f m5 :o are almo/ /rang]s to h]4 ,= in/ance1 if a man & woman :o h met j once be=e & :o are n really fri5ds b slight acqua9tances1 f9d t !y are travel+ to ! same place at ! same "t1 !y may = mutual pleasure's sake1 elect to travel toge!r4 ,?is is especially true :5 ! j\rney is "o ( f\r or five h\rs' duration1 :5 a bit ( conv]sation w\ld enliv5 ! monotony ( ! trip4 ,9 ?is case1 if bo? decide to g into ! d9+-room toge!r1 ! woman mu/ by no means all[ ! man to pay h] bill4 ,he may pay ! tip1 if he wi%es1 b he mu/ accept ! money t %e (f]s him to pay = h] %>e ( ! bill4 ,a consid]ate woman w wait until !y are back at _! seats be=e v5tur+ to reimburse h] companion4 ,x is bett] to h ! wait] pres5t sep>ate bills4 ,?is does away ) all awkw>dness & emb>rassm5t4 ,a g5tleman :o is escort+ a lady on a trip %\ld n be expect$ to pay = h] meals on ! tra91 unless !re is only "o & he feels t x w\ld be a pleasure = him to s]ve z ho/ on t occasion4 ,b if ! trip la/s sev]al days1 ! woman %\ld insi/ t %e pay h] own exp5ses4 ,?is is especially important if ! escort is a fri5d & n a relative2 %e %\ld by no means all[ him to pay h] bills4 ,,*ildr5 ,,on ,,! ,,tra9 ,v (t5 x is necess>y = p>5ts to travel ) _! *ildr54 ,! "m mu/ see t h] y\ng/]s obs]ve ! mo/ c>eful ord] :ile !y are 9 ! tra9 & t !y d n di/urb ! o!r pass5g]s4 ,x is n v pleasant = "y *ildr5 to sit quietly = ?ree or f\r h\rs1 & ! wise "m w see t !y h some?+ to amuse !mselves )4 ,a big picture book = ! boy1 a doll = ! girl or "s o!r equally int]e/+ div]sion w keep ! *ild f becom+ impati5t & re/less4 ,x is v wrong to p]mit *ildr5 to race up & d[n ! aisles1 to climb ov] ! backs ( ! seats1 to play noisy games or 9 any o!r mann] di/urb ! o!r pass5g]s4 ,nor is x prop] = !m to eat cont9ually1 crumbl+ cake & dropp+ fruit /ones ^u ! floor ( ! tra94 ,correct1 well-br$ little boys & girls w rema9 quietly seat$ 9 _! places1 wat*+ ! sc5]y or look+ at ! pictures 9 ! book2 & if !y conv]se at all1 x w be 9 a l[ tone t does n annoy ! man or woman 9 front :o is read+4 ,x is nev] too e>ly to tea* *ildr5 ! gold5 rule ( c\rtesy & respect4 ,if a *ild is address$ by a k9dly neighbor1 he %\ld answ] politely2 b he mu/ n leave 8 place & g ov] to t neighbor to be flatt]$ & indulg$1 & p]haps pli$ ) sweets t w d him m h>m ?an good4 ,c\rtesies ext5d$ *ildr5 %\ld be gratefully ackn[l$g$ bo? by ! *ild himself & by 8 "m4 ,,9 ,,! ,,taxi ,,cab ,:5 "o arrives at a /ation "o usually has to summon a taxi to ! hotel4 ,x is h>dly safe = a "y woman travel+ alone at night to ride 9 a taxi by h]self especially if ! ride is to be a long "o4 ,! be/ way to avoid x is = h] if possible to "t h] trip s z to arrive 9 ! day "t4 ,if ?is _c be done %e mu/ p]=ce accept ! alt]native4 ,if a man & woman are travel+ toge!r he helps h] 9 be=e gett+ 9 himself4 ,at ! end ( ! ride he fir/ helps h] out & !n pays & tips ! driv]4 ,t5 p] c5t4 ( ! am\nt ( ! f>e is ! usual rate4 ,unless a man is act+ z a woman's escort he %\ld n pay h] f>e4 ,,bon ,,voyage ,,gifts ,_m p l to s5d _! fri5ds bon voyage gifts ( fl[]s1 books1 fruit or c&y :5 !y are go+ away4 ,/eam] lett]s are always acceptable & if !y are arrang$ 9 "s novel way !y may be mo/ delightful4 ,a s]ies ( lett]s or small packages1 "o to be op5$ ea* day1 g a long way t[>d reliev+ ! t$ium ( ! j\rney4 ,simil> gifts may be s5t to fri5ds :o are go+ on a long railway trip4 ,! address ( packages s5t to /eam]s %\ld include ! "n ( ! vessel & ( ! l9e to :i* x belongs & ! numb] ( ! pi]4 ,,on ,,bo>d ,,! ,,%ip ,! only place :]e =mal introductions are n necess>y is at sea4 ,life on %ipbo>d is m or less free f conv5tionality1 =tunately1 especially = ^? :o are mak+ ! voyage alone4 ,! days w\ld be long & t$i\s if "o refus$ to speak to any ( ! o!r pass5g]s because !y _h n be5 =mally pres5t$4 ,x is q p]missible1 if "o feels s incl9$1 to speak to ! p]son ^: /eam] *air is ne> or to ! p :o %>e "o's table 9 ! %ip's d9+-room4 ,,c\rtesy ,,on ,,! ,,%ip ,al?\gh ! b>ri]s ( social etiquette are let d[n on bo>d ! %ip to ! ext5t ( p]mitt+ pass5g]s to talk to "o ano!r )\t =mal introductions1 !re is no excuse = lack ( c\rtesy4 ,! man or woman :o encroa*es ^u ! rights ( o!r pass5g]s1 :o is disc\rte\s or rude1 w und\bt$ly be %unn$ & avoid$ by ! o!rs4 ,x is1 = in/ance1 v bad =m to use someone else's pill[1 deck-*air or book1 )\t hav+ fir/ reque/$ p]mission to d s4 ,x is also impolite to speak 9 l\d tones1 or to read al\d1 :]e x w\ld di/urb o!rs :o are try+ to nap or to read4 ,noisy conduct ( any k9d is an evid5ce ( ill-bre$+1 & x is only ! extremely ill-br$ p :o w sit 9 little gr\ps & discuss & comm5t ^u ea* pass5g] on bo>d ! %ip4 ,pass5g]s are nev] p]mitt$ to int]f]e ) ! me*anisms ( ! %ip4 ,n only is x v incorrect to d s1 b x may be crim9al or unsafe4 ,to inspect c]ta9 p>ts ( ! %ip b>r$ to all b employees is to risk "o's own life & ! lives ( ! o!r pass5g]s4 ,rema9 9 y\r /at]oom or on deck1 b d n w&] into places :]e %ip-e?ics =bid y4 ,,! ,,woman ,,cross+ ,,! ,,ocean ,x is n usual = a woman to travel across ! ocean alone4 ,b v (t5 a "y woman correspond5t or j\rnali/1 or p]haps a woman buy] = "s l>ge fa%ion e/abli%m5t1 f9ds t bus9ess takes h] abroad4 ,%e ne$ feel no hesitancy or emb>rassm5t 9 attempt+ ! trip1 if %e kn[s & und]/&s all ! little rules ( good conduct t gov]n railroad1 /eam%ip & hotel etiquette4 ,! "y lady :o is alone1 %\ld be c>eful t %e does n make haphaz>d acqua9tances among ! g5tlem5 on bo>d ! %ip4 ,x is mu* wis] = h] to f9d companions among ! wom5 pass5g]s1 & lat] !y w und\bt$ly introduce h] to _! g5tleman acqua9tances4 ,%e mu/ nev] all[ a man ^: acqua9tance %e made only on bo>d ! %ip1 to assume any ( h] exp5ses4 ,nor %\ld %e sit up on ! deck aft] elev5 o'clock ) "o ( h] new acqua9tances4 ,%e mu/ be extremely c>eful ( h] conduct1 & %e mu/ n give anyone ! opportunity to talk ab\t h] & comm5t ^u ! fact t %e is travel+ )\t a *ap]on4 ,:5 !re is a dance on bo>d ! %ip1 ! woman :o is travel+ alone may accept an invitation to dance f a g5tleman %e has n =mally met2 b x is always wis] to f9d "s excuse to avoid danc+ ) a man :o is a total /rang]4 ,a ,,conc]t ,,at ,,sea ,v (t51 z ! sea voyage draws ne> an end1 a conc]t or ent]ta9m5t is held = ! b5efit ( "s special *>ity fund1 or m]ely = ! amusem5t ( ! pass5g]s4 ,all ^? :o are accompli%$ 9 any way--:o c s+1 dance1 recite or play a musical in/rum5t1 are expect$ to volunte] _! s]vices = ! occasion4 ,^? :o are specially reque/$ to d s1 %\ld cons5t amiably2 x is v rude1 inde$1 to refuse )\t "s v good reason4 ,! pass5g] :o abs5ts himself f ! conc]t :i* all o!r pass5g]s att5d1 is bo? impolite & ill-br$4 ,:e!r he c>es to or n1 he %\ld att5d = ! sake ( c\rtesy4 ,& ev]yone %\ld contribute to ! fund if "o is rais$ aft] ! conc]t4 ,only a v selfi% & unk9d p]son w refuse to contribute to a fund ( ?is k9d4 ,,at ,,! ,,j\rney',s ,,end ,9 ! excitem5t ( rea*+ t]ra firma once aga91 a few p are incl9$ to =get ! c\rtesies due ! o!r pass5g]s4 ,a little :ile be=e ! %ip rea*es ! dock1 cordial f>ewells %\ld be made to all ^? ) :om "o has be5 fri5dly4 ,h&-%ak+ is 9 ord]1 & a polite phrase1 su* z1 ,good-by1 ,mrs4 ,jones1 ,i hope ,i %all h ! pleasure ( see+ y aga91 is mo/ appropriate4 ,if x is desir$1 an ex*ange ( c>ds may accompany ?is leave-tak+1 especially if "o really wi%es to cont9ue ! fri5d%ip4 ,f>ewells on bo>d a %ip %\ld be brief b cordial4 ,long1 s5tim5tal f>ewells %\ld nev] be indulg$ 9 =1 at ! mo/1 !y cause only sorr[ at ! p>t+ ( a brief fri5d%ip t may p]haps nev] be resum$4 ,a w>m h&clasp1 a s9c]e ^w or two ( f>ewell--& x %\ld be ov]4 ,,at ,,hotel ,,& ,,re/aurant ,:5 arriv+ 9 a /range city1 a travel] imm$iately asks to be driv5 to :atev] hotel he has previ\sly decid$ ^u4 ,"h he regi/]s1 us+ ! same =m t appe>s on 8 visit+ c>d b add+ to x ! "n ( ! city f :i* he has come4 ,! woman :o is travel+ alone does well to wire or phone ahead to ! hotel & reque/ t !y res]ve a room = h]4 ,:ile at ! hotel1 h] conduct mu/ be unimpea*able4 ,%e mu/ n ent]ta9 mascul9e visitors 9 h] private rooms1 b only 9 ! public reception room ( ! hotel4 ,%e mu/ n return to ! hotel aft] midnight1 & %e %\ld n d9e alone 9 ! hotel d9+-room aft] eight o'clock4 ,:5 a l>ge p>ty is to d9e at a hotel1 ! table %\ld be res]v$ & ! di%es *os5 9 advance4 ,?is w save a great deal ( confusion & wa/e ( "t4 ,if ! d9n] is n arrang$ = 9 advance1 ! ho/ or ho/ess %\ld d all ! ord]+1 subject+ x1 ( c\rse1 to ! approval ( ! gue/s4 ,,at ,,tea-,,room ,,& ,,ro( ,,g>d5 ,!re seems to be some?+ ab\t a tea-room1 :e!r x be at home or 9 "s /range city or t[n1 t is conducive to quiet & peacefulness4 ,l\d talk+ & boi/]\s laught] is entirely out ( place1 & ^? :o are guilty ( indulg+ 9 ^! two improprieties condemn !mselves z ill-br$4 ,at ! tea-room ! lady always reta9s h] hat4 ,gloves are remov$ & wraps may ei!r be slipp$ (f ! %\ld]s or completely remov$4 ,at ! ro( g>d51 hats are also worn1 except 9 ! ev5+ :5 full ev5+ dress is worn4 ,"h also1 x is important t a quiet res]ve ( mann] *>act]ize ! lady & ! g5tleman4 ,no am\nt ( frivolity & gayety 9 ! atmosph]e ( "o's environm5t c excuse noisy1 ill-mann]$ conduct4 ,,to ,,^? ,,:o ,,love ,,to ,,travel ,almo/ ev]yone enjoys travel+1 b !re are comp>atively few p :o really appreciate x4 ,to ^? :o love to travel1 :o f9d x an inspiration & a delight1 ! foll[+ bits ( in=mation may be ( int]e/4 ,if y want to enjoy a trip to a =eign c\ntry--let u say ,france1--sp5d a week or two read+ ab\t ! hi/ory & lit]ature ( t c\ntry4 ,make notes :ile y are read+1 give y\r imag9ation full re91 & absorb j z mu* k z y c ( ! habits & cu/oms ( ! ,fr5* p4 ,! cultivation ( ! imag9ation is especially important2 :ile y read ab\t ,france1 picture ! t9y villages & big cities to y\rself1 try to visualize ! p & _! homes4 ,& :5 y d arrive 9 ,france1 y w f9d ke5 enjoym5t 9 see+ ! p & places t liv$ fir/ 9 y\r imag9ation4 ,we promise t y w enjoy y\r trip a great deal m ?an if y neglect$ to devote a little "t to ! read+ up ( ! important facts ab\t ! c\ntry y int5d$ to visit4 ,ano!r v good plan is to buy a ,fr5*-&-,engli% or a ,spani%-&-,engli% diction>y be=e or z soon z rea*+ ^? c\ntries4 ,:e!r "o kn[s ! language or n1 x is always safe/ to h "o ( ^! little volumes h&y4 ,!y are absolutely indisp5sable to ^? :o expect to travel 9 a c\ntry ! language ( :i* is entirely unkn[n to !m4 ,wise t\ri/s c>ry a map ( ! c\ntries !y int5d visit+4 ,x saves !m mu* "t1 & (t5 prev5ts mi/akes4 ,^! maps may be obta9$ ( mo/ reliable /ation]s1 & !y take up v little space4 ,!re are times1 dur+ ! j\rney1 :5 _! help is well nigh invaluable2 & a map is ne>ly always a saf] guide ?an a native4 ,a cam]a is a spl5did ?+ to h along on "o's trips abroad4 ,no matt] h[ vivid an impression a c]ta9 sc5e makes ^u "o's m9d1 x is b\nd to fade ) ! pass+ ( a ye> or s4 ,b a cle> snap-%ot tak5 ( t sc5e w keep x fre% indef9itely1 = "o ne$s only to glance at ! picture to h all associations ) ! sc5e recall$4 ,! late/ cam]as h a device = writ+ ! date & "n ( ! place on ! negative1 to be pr9t$ ) ! picture4 ,x is mo/ conv5i5t = ! t\ri/4 ,!re are too _m ( u :o ru% ?r\gh ! _w see+ no?+4 ,we race ?r\gh "o c\ntry aft] ano!r1 hu/l+ & bu/l+1 feel+ important & act+ ! "p--& we feel t we h travel$4 ,b t is n travel4 ,true travel is :5 a man or woman visits a /range c\ntry & c>ries back ) him1 or h]1 to be rememb]$ =ev]1 impressions ( ! p & cu/oms ( t c\ntry--valuable impressions t make 8 or h] life full]1 wid]1 m 9 sympa?y ) ! great _w ( fell[-m54 ,bett] /ay at home & read good books ab\t =eign c\ntries1 ?an ru% ?r\gh !m ) unsee+ eyes1 m]ely to be able to tell ^? at home t y h be5 abroad4 ,,*apt] ,,viii ,,tipp+ ,,an ,,un-,,am]ican ,,cu/om ,ev]yone kn[s t tipp+ is a ,european cu/om & is entirely un-,am]ican 9 pr9ciple4 ,b :ile ! cu/om is obs]v$ z widely 9 ?is c\ntry z x is to-day1 x is bo? inconsid]ate & bad =m to ignore x4 ,! wages ( wait]s end waitresses1 port]s & hotel s]vants are outrage\sly small1 = ! reason t !y receive tips = ea* s]vice !y p]=m = individual gue/s & travel]s4 ,if ! tipp+ cu/om 7 aboli%$1 ! wages ( ^! p w\ld be correspond+ly increas$2 b z ?+s are n[1 x is inconsid]ate to deprive !m ( ! tips t bo? !y & _! employ]s expect t !y w receive4 ,9 a little tea %op 9 ,fif? ,av5ue 9 ,new ,york1 ! foll[+ is pr9t$ on ! back ( ea* m5u3 ,tipp+ is an un-,am]ican cu/om4 ,help u aboli% x by add+ #aj;c to ! am\nt ( y\r bill4 ,at ! end ( ! week1 ! wait] w receive ! entire am\nt add$ to 8 wages4 ,patrons h greet$ ?is plan en?usia/ically4 ,!y feel t x presages ! ultimate abolition ( a cu/om t has long be5 9 disrepute because x is s di/9ctly un-,am]ican4 ,! wait]s 9 ?is progressive little tea-room s]ve ea* patron ) ! same degree ( c\rtesy & respect2 !re is no fawn+ s]vility1 no unfair divid+ ( s]vice betwe5 two patrons4 ,let u hope t be=e long all re/aurants & hotels w foll[ ! lead ( ! little tea-%op t revolts aga9/ ! undemocratic cu/om ( tipp+4 ,b = ! pres5t1 :ile x rema9s a national cu/om1 we mu/ "k :5 to tip & h[ to tip1 & ! correct am\nts4 ,9 c]ta9 /ates1 z 9 ,s\? ,c>ol9a1 tipp+ is illegal4 ,9 ?is case z 9 all o!rs ( a l nature1 ! rules ( etiquette are set aside 9 favor ( ! /atutes ( ! law4 ,,lavi% ,,tipp+ ,! man or woman :o gives a wait] or a port] a tip t is entirely incomm5surate ) t individual's s]vices1 is n impress+ by 8 g5]osity1 b is e>n+ ! d]ision ( ! s]vants = 8 lack ( savoir faire4 ,extravagance 9 tipp+ is l extravagance 9 any o!r =m--x is decid$ly vulg>4 ,a s]vant %\ld be tipp$ accord+ to ! am\nt ( s]vice r5d]$4 ,! hall-boy :o br+s y a pit*] ( ice-wat] %\ld n receive ! same am\nt z ! wait] :o s]ves a full c\rse d9n]4 ,nor %\ld ! maid :o c>es = y\r room be =gott5 :ile ! port] :o c>ries y\r trunks is h&somely rew>d$ = 8 few m9utes' s]vice4 ,,9 ,,d9+-,,room ,,or ,,d9+-,,c> ,at a hotel1 :5 a gue/ expects to /ay = a long "t1 he may rew>d ! wait] 9 ! d9+-room = 8 s]vices at ! end ( ea* week4 ,"o doll> is consid]$ ! correct am\nt = a woman gue/ = a week's s]vice 9 ! d9+-room1 & "o doll> & a half = ! g5tleman gue/4 ,individual tips %\ld am\nt to t5 p] c5t4 ( ! bill4 ,9 ! d9+-c> a tip ( tw5ty-five c5ts is suffici5t = ! s]vices r5d]$ a man or woman4 ,! woman :o travels alone may leave tw5ty-five c5ts = ! wait] 9 ! d9+-c>4 ,! man :o travels alone %\ld leave t5 p] c5t4 ( ! bill1 or m accord+ to ! s]vices receiv$4 ,! woman :o travels ) *ildr5 & /ops at a hotel d9+-room or a re/aurant along ! r\te1 = d9n]1 %\ld rememb] t *ildr5 always require extra s]vice & tr\ble1 & ! wait] or waitress %\ld be tipp$ accord+ly4 ,a woman ) "o *ild %\ld leave a tw5ty-five c5t tip2 & :5 !re are m *ildr5 ! tip %\ld be increas$ s z to be comm5surate ) ! s]vices receiv$4 ,,at ,,! ,,hotel ,wom5 are nev] expect$ to tip z g5]\sly z m54 ,at a hotel1 ! woman %\ld rememb] ! hall-boy1 ! *amb]-maid1 ! port]1 & ! wait] 9 ! d9+-room4 ,:5 h] /ay is a %ort "o1 tw5ty-five c5ts apiece is suffici5t = ea* "o1 except ! hall-boy1 :o is giv5 a tip ( t5 c5ts :5ev] he p]=ms an individual s]vice4 ,if h] /ay is long]1 %e %\ld tip accord+ to ! am\nt ( s]vice receiv$ f ea* s]vant4 ,! man at ! hotel is n expect$ to tip ! *amb]-maid unless %e p]=ms "s v special s]vice = him4 ,b he tips all o!rs :o s]ve him 9 any way4 ,! port] %\ld receive t5 c5ts = ea* trunk t he c>ries to ! room1 & m if he p]=ms additional s]vice4 ,t5 c5ts is adequate comp5sation = ! bell-boy :5ev] he p]=ms "s s]vice1 & x %\ld be =?com+ imm$iately ^u ! completion ( t s]vice4 ,bo? m5 & wom5 gue/s are expect$ to tip a hotel employee :om !y s5d out on an err& 9 proportion to ! s]vices r5d]$4 ,if ! trip to be tak5 is a long "o1 & entails a great deal ( tr\ble4 ,! tip %\ld be a g5]\s "o4 ,,! ,,taxi-,,driv] ,9 l>ge cities :]e taxicabs are fitt$ ) met]s t give ! exact am\nt ( gr\nd cov]$ & ! correspond+ co/1 ! travel] has no?+ to fe>4 ,he may pay ! am\nt ) full confid5ce t he is n be+ ov]-*>g$4 ,8 tip %\ld be fifte5 or tw5ty-five c5ts1 accord+ to ! l5g? ( ! trip2 or if ! taxi-driv] has be5 specially reque/$ to make ! trip 9 ! %orte/ possible "t1 & if ! di/ance cov]$ is unusually long1 a tip ( fifty c5ts %\ld be =?com+4 ,b 9 "s small t[ns :]e taxicabs h no met]s1 unsuspect+ /rang]s are (t5 =c$ to pay twice or ev5 ?ree times z mu* z ! trip is actually wor?4 ,= ?is reason1 x is always wise to "k exactly ! values ( c]ta9 trips1 & ! c>eful man or woman w "k :5 x is wor? "o doll> & :5 x is wor? ?ree4 ,to remon/rate ) ! driv] :5 y feel t he has excessively ov]*>g$ is to disc\rage 8 future attempts to d ! same ?+ to o!rs4 ,a di/ance ( tw5ty city blocks--or "o mile--%\ld nev] am\nt to m ?an fifty c5ts2 f ?is figure x %\ld be easy to compute :at long] trips %\ld co/4 ,!re is no m reason :y exorbitant tips %\ld be paid ! taxi-driv] ?an ! wait]4 ,he p]=ms no great] s]vice1 except 9 unusual cases1 su* z cat*+ a tra9 9 "t or gett+ y to a physician quickly4 ,! am\nt ( ! tip %\ld be 9 proportion to ! am\nt ( ! bill1 if ! trip is j an ord9>y "o4 ,,on ,,! ,,tra9 ,! man 9 ! baggage room :o ga!rs toge!r & *ecks ! trunks w expect a tip ( at lea/ tw5ty-five c5ts4 ,a woman may (f] less ?an ?is--b nev] less ?an t5 c5ts4 ,to ! port] :o c>ries ! h& luggage abo>d ! tra9 & f9ds a com=table seat = ! travel]1 a tip ( fifte5 or tw5ty-five c5ts %\ld be giv51 & ! p>lor c> port] :o p]=ms _m little s]vices dur+ ! trip %\ld be simil>ly tipp$4 ,:5 ! railroad j\rney is long] ?an tw5ty-f\r h\rs1 ! man & woman w f9d t !y h sev]al p to tip 9 ! sleep]4 ,! port] :o makes ! b$s & black5s ! boots w expect no?+ less ?an tw5ty-five c5ts1 & = extra s]vice he is entitl$ to extra comp5sation4 ,o!rs :o p]=m s]vices are tipp$ 9 am\nts t are comm5surate ) ! s]vices r5d]$1 & imm$iately ^u ! p]=mance ( ^? s]vices4 ,,cross+ ,,! ,,ocean ,x 0 on a ,g]man /eam%ip t ! cu/om ( rais+ a contribution = ! b& ( musicians orig9at$4 ,"s /eam%ips to-day /ill obs]ve ?is cu/om1 b on bett] %ips1 :]e ! musicians are ( a high ord]1 x has be5 aboli%$4 ,if ! collection is made1 at ! end ( ! j\rney1 ea* pass5g] %\ld feel x incumb5t ^u him to contribute at lea/ tw5ty-five c5ts4 ,fifty c5ts is n too mu*1 & "s p :o h p>ticul>ly enjoy$ ! music1 (f] "o doll> or ev5 m4 ,x is v bad =m1 inde$1 to refuse to contribute to ?is fund4 ,! s]vants to be rememb]$ on ! /eam%ip are ! b$room /ew>d1 ! table1 deck & ba?room /ew>ds1 ! /ew>dess1 & ! boy :o black5s ! boots4 ,mascul9e pass5g]s d n tip ! /ew>dess unless %e has r5d]$ !m special s]vice4 ,tips to ! s]vants m5tion$ above %\ld be gov]n$ by ! am\nt ( s]vice r5d]$4 ,= in/ance1 if a woman pass5g] has be5 ill all ! way across1 %e is expect$ to give a g5]\s tip to ! /ew>dess :o has nurs$ h]4 ,five doll>s w\ld n be consid]$ extravagant 9 ?is case4 ,! man :o has be5 ill %\ld be j z g5]\s ) ! b$room /ew>d & all o!rs :o h att5d$ him4 ,:5 leav+ ! %ip1 no "o :o has be5 ( any s]vice :atev] %\ld be =gott54 ,! port] :o helps y ) y\r h& luggage & sees y safely d[n ! gang plank %\ld be rew>d$ ) no less ?an tw5ty-five c5ts4 ,,tips ,,9 ,,=eign ,,c\ntries ,am]icans 9 ,g]many1 ,engl& or ,france %\ld le>n at once ! values ( ,g]man1 ,engli% & ,fr5* money4 ,o!rwise !y may make mi/akes t w co/ !m q a bit4 ,= in/ance1 an ,am]ican woman 9 ,engl& rec5tly gave a cr[n to a hotel maid1 ?9k+ t x 0 equival5t to our qu>t]4 ,! maid realiz$ t ! woman did n "k ! value ( x1 & %e expla9$ x to h]4 ,b ! travel] mu/ rememb] t n all s]vants are s scrupul\s4 ,tips 9 =eign c\ntries %\ld be giv5 on ! same basis z ! ones giv5 to ^? :o s]ve u "h 9 ,am]ica4 ,extravagance is bad =m1 & n to give at all is nigg>dly4 ,! am\nt ( ! tip %\ld always be comm5surate ) ! s]vice p]=m$4 ,am]icans h e "r to expect respectful & c\rte\s treatm5t :]ev] !y *ance to be1 & !y mu/ n feel t !y are expect$ to pay exorbitant fees to obta9 x4 ,,*apt] ,,ix ,,etiquette ,,abroad ,,! ,,am]ican ,,9 ,,=eign ,,c\ntries ,! ,am]ican :o goes abroad & expects to le>n 9 a few days ! cu/oms1 mann]s & ev5 ! language ( ! c\ntries he visits1 is l ! prov]bial ,iri%man :o comes to ,am]ica & expects to f9d ! /reets pav$ ) gold4 ,bo? are doom$ to disappo9tm5t4 ,"o ( ! mo/ undesirable features ( travel abroad is to be =c$ to dep5d ^u ! half-incorrect int]pretations ( guides = "o's com=t & pleasure4 ,h[ mu* bett] x is to be able to talk to ! natives ( ! c\ntry !mselves1 & to und]/& !m & _! ways6 ,a little prelim9>y prep>ation be=e ! trip1 or :ile "o is on ! way1 s]ves z an excell5t f\ndation ^u :i* to build "o's k ( ! language & cu/oms ( a =eign c\ntry4 ,good mann]s are1 ( c\rse1 univ]sal2 & ! man :o is well-br$ 9 ,am]ica is sure to be correctly-mann]$ :5 he is 9 ,france or ,engl&4 ,& yet !re are slight diff]5ces betwe5 ! etiquette ( ,am]ica & ! etiquette ( =eign c\ntries4 ,!y d n affect "o's c\rtesy or k9dl9ess ( mann]1 b !y d affect ^? daily little conv5tionalities1 su* z greet+s1 f>ewells1 table etiquette1 address+ cl]gy & royalty1 etc4 ,to be ignorant ( ^! rules is to be susceptible to emb>rassm5t & unc]ta9ty1 & to incur ! displeasure & unfri5dl9ess ( =eign]s ( good social /&+4 ,! foll[+ p>agraphs w1 we hope1 help ! man or woman :o is travel+ abroad1 = !y conta9 all ! important details ( =eign etiquette4 ,b 9 addition1 we h sugge/$ t ^? :o int5d to visit ,france or ,g]many or any o!r =eign c\ntry1 sp5d a little "t read+ ab\t t c\ntry & le>n+ a bit ab\t ! language4 ,!re are _m good books available 9 public libr>ies & else:]e1 t tea* "o a great deal ab\t ! p1 int]e/+ places1 & language ( =eign c\ntries4 ,,on ,,engli% ,,soil ,p]haps x is because ,am]ica & ,engl& h s mu* 9 common1 t _! etiquette is s v simil>4 ,we f9d t balls & receptions & ent]ta9m5ts1 d9n]s1 calls1 fun]als & w$d+s1 9 fact1 almo/ all social functions are celebrat$ 9 practically ! same mann] z is consid]$ be/ =m "h 9 ,am]ica4 ,! *anges are s slight t !y are n important en\gh to m5tion4 ,b !re is "o radical diff]5ce betwe5 ,engli% & ,am]ican conv5tionalities t usually cause difficulty to ! t\ri/4 ,we ref] to ! royal society ( ,engl& :i* requires a v special k9d ( recognition4 ,! travel+ ,am]ican :o visits an ,engli% c\rt w expose himself to a great deal ( emb>rassm5t if he does n "k ! correct c\rt etiquette--if he does n "k ! prop] titles & _! recognition1 h[ to address ! ,k+ or ,que51 h[ to conduct himself :ile 9 ! pres5ce ( royalty4 ,,address+ ,,royalty ,al?\gh e ,am]ican t\ri/ delights 9 be+ pres5t$ at c\rt1 or to a royal p]sonage1 x is usually reg>d$ z a n]v\s & emb>rass+ bus9ess--= ! reason t "o does n q "k j :at is correct to say & d4 ,:5 address+ ! ,k+1 !re are two correct =ms & no o!rs t may be us$4 ,"o may say ei!r1 ,y\r ,maje/y or ,sir4 ,!re are also two =ms t may be us$ :5 address+ ! ,que54 ,!y are1 ,y\r ,maje/y or ,madame4 ,:5 answ]+ a "q put by ei!r ( ^! rul]s1 "o may n use ! brief ,no or ,yes4 ,no1 madame1 or ,yes1 sir1 are ! correct =ms4 ,:5 address+ ! ,k+1 ! =m ,y\r ,maje/y is us$4 ,all *ildr5 ( ! ,k+ & ,que5 are address$ z ,y\r ,royal ,highness4 ,?is same title is us$ :5 address+ ! bro!r or si/] ( ! reign+ mon>*s1 or ! bro!r or si/] ( ! late ,k+4 ,9 speak+ to royalty1 "o does n use ! simple expression y1 b expresses oneself 9 ?is mann]1 ,has y\r ,royal ,highness be5 to ,am]ica rec5tly8 ,"o rule t all ,am]icans %\ld obs]ve :5 9 ! pres5ce ( =eign royalty is to wait until !y are address$ by ! p]sons ( rank4 ,!y !mselves %\ld n volunte] rem>ks b %\ld ent] into ! conv]sation only :5 !y are directly address$4 ,to use a title ( rank1 su* z ,y\r ,maje/y or ,y\r ,royal ,highness incessantly1 is to make x seem sup]ficial4 ,x %\ld be us$ only :5 respect & conv5tion dem& x4 ,:5 pres5t$ to royalty1 a man is expect$ to b[1 a woman to c\rtesy4 ,! h& is nev] (f]$ 9 greet+1 unless ! p]son ( rank makes ! fir/ motion4 ,9 ! pres5ce ( ! ,que5 ev]yone %\ld %[ "s m>k ( respect--m5 /& ) heads uncov]$ & wom5 b[ slightly4 ,am]icans %\ld foll[ ^! cu/oms if !y d n wi% to e>n ! enmity ( _! ,engli% bro!rs & make _! /ay 9 ! c\ntry unpleasant4 ,b mo/ ( all1 !y %\ld d x because x is ! polite & prop] ?+ to d4 ,am]icans %\ld also rema9 /&+ at ! !at] or op]a :5 ! national an!m1 ,god ,save ! ,que51 is sung1 or :ile ! re/ ( ! audi5ce /&s 9 respect = a memb] ( ! royal family :o has n yet be5 seat$4 ,,o!r ,,engli% ,,titles ,an ,am]ican 9 ,engl& is v likely to meet "s p]sons ( high h]$it>y title1 if !y are n pres5t$ at ! c\rt itself4 ,:5 speak+ ( a ,duke1 "o says1 ,! ,duke ( ,lanca/]%ire4 ,:5 address+ him1 "o says1 ,y\r ,grace or ,my ,"l ,duke4 ,famili>ly1 by ^? :o "k him well & address him z an equal1 ! ,duke is address$ m]ely z ,duke4 ,! same rule applies to ! ,du*ess4 ,=mally %e is address$ z ,y\r ,grace2 famili>ly %e is address$ z ,du*ess4 ,! elde/ son is entitl$ to ! highe/ ( ! less] titles ( 8 fa!r4 ,?us1 ! elde/ son ( a ,duke :o 0 a ,m>quis imm$iately be=e receiv+ 8 ducal degree1 is kn[n z ! ,m>quis1 & is address$ z ,"l ,b>rie 7if ,b>rie happ5$ to be ! surname ( ! family74 ,e>ls1 ,visc\nts & ,b>ons are address$ 9 ! same mann]1 :5 _! titles are giv5 !m z c\rtesies1 z ! elde/ sons ( ,dukes4 ,! wife ( anyone ( ! titl$ m5 m5tion$ above w\ld be address$ z ,lady ,b>rie4 ,a curt ,no or ,yes is extremely rude on ! "p ( an ,am]ican :5 answ]+ a "q put by ! wife ( a p]son ( nobility4 ,"o %\ld say1 ,no1 ,lady ,b>rie4 ,! y\ng] sons ( a ,duke are address$ z ,"l ,james or ,"l ,sidney ,b>rie4 ,daught]s are address$ z ,lady ,hel5 or ,lady ,l\ise ,b>rie4 ,a ,m>quis 7n ! elde/ son ( a ,duke1 b a recogniz$ ,m>quis by ,engli% law7 is entitl$ to ! =mal title ( ,my ,"l or ,y\r ,lord%ip :5 address$ by travel+ ,am]icans--or by _! own c\ntry-p4 ,by 8 fri5ds or equals he is address$ z ,"l ,d5bigh or ,m>quis4 ,on =mal occasions1 or by ^? ( less] rank1 a ,m>*ioness is address$ z ,my ,lady or ,y\r ,lady%ip4 ,b h] fri5ds & equals call h] ,lady ,p5hope or ,m>*ioness4 ,j z ! elde/ son ( a ,duke be>s a c\rtesy title1 s does ! elde/ son ( a ,m>quis4 ,?is elde/ son is call$ ,"l ,d5bigh4 ,! daught]s ( ! ,m>quis are ,lady ,hel5 or ,lady ,janet1 & !y are address$ 9 ?is mann] by _! fri5ds & equals4 ,=mally1 an ,e>l is address$ z ,my ,"l or ,y\r ,lord%ip4 ,! wife ( an ,e>l is =mally address$ z is ! ,m>*ioness4 ,b by h] intimate fri5ds & h] social equals %e is address$ z ,c\ntess or ,lady ,h5drick4 ,! elde/ son ( an ,e>l be>s 8 fa!r's second title4 ,!re are no titles = ! y\ng] sons ( an ,e>l4 ,8 daught]s are address$ 9 ! same mann] z are ! daught]s ( a ,m>quis4 ,a ,visc\nt is address$ =mally z ,my ,"l & 8 fri5ds & equals address him famili>ly z ,"l ,rob]ts4 ,9 address+ ! wife ( a ,visc\nt1 "o uses ! same =ms outl9$ = ! wife ( an ,e>l4 ,! sons & daught]s ( a ,visc\nt1 :5 address$ or spok5 ab\t1 are ref]r$ to z ,mr4 or ,miss ,rob]ts1 b :5 =mally introduc$1 ?is =m is us$1 ,! ,honorable ,h5ry ,rob]ts4 ---- ,,& ,,/ill ,,o!r ,,titles ,! ,am]ican travel] 9 ,engl& w c]ta9ly h a great _m titles to rememb]1 especially if he expects to m+le to any ext5t ) ! royal society4 ,!re are /ill o!rs besides ^? outl9$ above4 ,! foll[+ are less] titles1 b are us$ p]haps ev5 m frequ5tly ?an ^? giv5 9 ! prec$+ p>agraphs4 ,!re are ! ,b>on & ,b>oness1 = in/ance1 :o are address$ respectively z ,my ,"l & ,y\r ,lady%ip4 ,_! *ildr5 h ! same titul> rank & are address$ 9 ! same mann]4 ,! ,b>onet is address$ =mally & famili>ly z ,sir ,?omas )\t ! addition ( 8 surname4 ,8 title is really only an h]$it>y privilege4 ,b 8 wife enjoys ! title ( ,lady ,m]ick or ,lady ,c>ol1 in/ead ( j ,lady ,sylvia4 ,! *ildr5 ( a ,b>onet h no title4 ,a ,knight is address$ z ,"l ,h5ry or ,"l ,james1 bo? =mally & famili>ly4 ,8 wife is address$ 9 ! same =m z t us$ = ! wife ( a ,b>onet4 ,! *ildr5 ( a ,knight are call$ m]ely ,mr4 or ,miss4 ,,address+ ,,cl]gy ,,abroad ,ano!r difficulty t (t5 confronts ! /rang] 9 ,engl&1 is t ( correctly address+ ! cl]gy4 ,engl& is a l& ( titles1 & to be at ease "o mu/ "k h[ to place ea* title prop]ly & pay prop] respect :]e x is due4 ,9 ,engl& ! ,ar*bi%ops ( ,cant]bury & ,york & all ! bi%ops 7) ! exception ( two7 are call$ ,lords ,spiritual4 ,!y enjoy ! privilege ( sitt+ 9 ! ,h\se ( ,lords4 ,?us1 :5 address+ !m =mally1 ! =m ,y\r ,grace %\ld be us$4 ,ar*bi%op may be us$ only by ^? :o are address+ t dignit>y famili>ly z a fri5d or an equal4 ,bi%ops %\ld be =mally address$ z ,y\r ,lord%ip or ,my ,"l1 b m]ely z ,bi%op by _! fri5ds4 ,_! wives1 & ! wives ( ar*bi%ops1 h no title1 nor d ! *ildr5 ( ei!r ar*bi%op or bi%op h any title o!r ?an ,mr4 or ,miss4 ,foll[+ ! bi%op 9 rank1 comes ! ,dean1 address$ simply z ,dean ,h>ris4 ,8 wife is kn[n only z ,mrs4 ,h>ris4 ,! same =ms apply to ! ,ar*deacon & 8 wife4 ,o!r cl]gym5--canons1 vic>s1 rectors & curates--h no titles & are address$ simply z ,mr4 ,br[n or ,mr4 ,smi? z ! case may be4 ,,lawy]s1 ,,/atesm5 ,,& ,,(ficials--,,h[ ,,to ,,address ,,!m ,:ile travel+ ab\t 9 m]ry ,engl&1 "o may f9d x necess>y to seek legal advice or ! protection ( a c\rt4 ,! etiquette is slightly diff]5t f t obs]v$ 9 ,am]ica4 ,! memb]s ( ! judici>y1 = in/ance1 are n spok5 ( z ,judge ,br[n & ,judge ,h>ris1 b z ,mr4 ,ju/ice ,br[n & ,mr4 ,ju/ice ,h>ris4 ,:ile presid+ 9 8 c\rt1 ! memb] ( ! judici>y is address$ z ,my ,"l1 ,y\r honor1 ,y\r wor%ip1 accord+ to ! position occupi$4 ,9 private life1 h[ev]1 he is pla9 ,mr4 ,smi?4 ,:e!r address$ =mally or famili>ly1 ! memb]s ( ! ,cab9et1 & ! prime m9i/] are simply ,mr4 ,blank1 unless !y h titles conf]r$ ^u !m by ! ,k+ or inh]it$4 ,9 ?is case !y use _! titles con/antly & are address$ accord+ly4 ,! ,"l ,mayor ( ,london is entitl$ to ! honor>y title ( ,8 ,lord%ip4 ,he may also be address$ z ,my ,"l ,mayor at social ga!r+s4 ,,at ,,! ,,c\rt ,,( ,,engl& ,! social activities ( ! ,engli% ,c\rt1 & ! etiquette gov]n+ ^! activities1 %\ld be kn[n & ?or\ghly und]/ood by e ,am]ican :o ev] int5ds to visit t c\ntry4 ,! w> int]f]$ slightly ) ! functions ( ! c\rt1 b ) ! return to normal ^! h be5 resum$ ) all _! pre-w> c]emony4 ,usually f\r ,c\rts are held e season1 two 9 ! e>ly "p ( spr+1 & two at equal int]vals lat] on4 ,?is may be alt]$1 h[ev]1 to suit conditions2 z1 = in/ance1 9 ,n9ete5-,f\rte5 !re 7 only ?ree ,c\rts1 & 9 ,n9ete5-,fifte5 !re 7 none at all4 ,am]ican wom5 :o wi% to be pres5t$ at ,c\rt may ei!r be pres5t$ by ! wife ( ! ,am]ican ,ambassador or by "s ,engli% woman ( title & position :o has h]self be5 receiv$ by ! ,que54 ,! ,am]ican ,ambassador has ! privilege ( s5d+ to ! au?orities 9 ^: h&s ! matt] re/s1 ! names ( sev]al ,am]ican wom5 suitable = pres5tation at ,c\rt4 ,^? :o wi% ?is privilege1 %\ld regi/] _! names at ! (fices ( ! ,embassy 9 ,london1 suffici5tly ahead ( "t = due consid]ation4 ,9 addition to ! regi/]+ ( h] "n at ! ,embassy1 ! woman :o wi%es to be pres5t$ at ,c\rt %\ld br+ to ! ,ambassador a lett] ( recomm5dation f "s memb] ( ! ,am]ican gov]nm5t :o is well kn[n to ! ,ambassador4 ,!n1 if ! application is accept$1 h] "n & cr$5tials w be s5t to ,buck+ham ,palace1 f :5ce invitations w be issu$ if ! ,ambassador's li/ is approv$4 ,hav+ ga9$ ! covet$ invitation to appe> at ! ,c\rt ( ,h] ,maje/y1 ! ,que51 ! ,am]ican woman mu/ be c>eful t %e kn[s exactly :at to we>4 ,,:at ,,to ,,we> ,,to ,,c\rt ,be=e attempt+ to appe> at ,c\rt1 ! ,am]ican woman %\ld consult a reliable modi/e4 ,%e w be able to tell h] exactly ! correct ?+ to we> at h] pres5tation4 ,c\rt g[ns inv>iably h tra9s1 & ! head dress is always elaborate4 ,! dress itself mu/ be fa%ion$ accord+ to ! /yle ( ! mom5t1 & 9 ?is ! woman mu/ be guid$ by h] dressmak]4 ,= a "y1 unm>ri$ woman a dress ( ?91 light-color$ mat]ial is sugge/$1 unadorn$ by jewels ( any k9d4 ,! matron may we> diamonds or pe>ls1 b mu/ n attempt to emulate ! gaud9ess ( a ,que5 ,elizabe?4 ,! well-br$ woman w n feel awkw>d 9 ! va/ room :]e all ! great p]sonages are assembl$4 ,%e w le>n be=eh&1 j h[ to ent] ! room1 h[ to kiss ! ,que5's h& & h[ to conduct h]self ) poise & grace dur+ ! p]iod ( pres5tation4 ,,! ,,k+',s ,,levees ,! ,am]ican g5tleman :o wi%es to be pres5t$ to ,8 ,maje/y1 may arrange ?r\gh 8 ,ambassador to att5d "o ( ! levees :i* ! ,k+ holds at ,/4 ,james' ,palace4 ,^! levees are n q z c]emoni\s z ! ,c\rts :i* ! ,que5 holds1 b !y require a c]ta9 def9ite etiquette :i* mu/ n be ov]look$4 ,= in/ance1 ! ,am]ican :o is n 9 uni=m1 mu/ we> ! correct dress prescrib$ = ! occasion4 ,x is kn[n z levee dress1 & a compet5t ,london tailor w be able to in=m ! ,am]ican g5tleman ( j :at x consi/s4 ,he mu/ n attempt to appe> at ! levee 9 any o!r ?an ^! conv5tional clo!s4 ,slight v>iations take place 9 ^! levee co/umes1 f "t to "t1 & ! ,am]ican 9 ,engl& %\ld make sure by consult+ ) a fa%ionable tailor4 ,x is wise also1 be=e att5d+ a levee1 to h a little *at ) a fri5d or acqua9tance :o has already att5d$ "o1 & le>n f him ! correct way to conduct oneself ?r\gh\t ! pres5tation4 ,,9 ,,france ,france is a l& ( poli%$ mann]s4 ,"h "o is ei!r cultur$ or uncultur$4 ,mi/akes 9 etiquette1 div]g5ce f ! pa? ( good =m1 are n tol]at$ 9 good society4 ,! ,am]ican 9 ,france mu/ "k exactly :at is correct to d & say 9 t c\ntry1 if he wi%es to enjoy 8 visit4 ,! brief expressions ,yes or ,no are nev] us$ 9 ,france :5 "o wi%es to be polite4 ,x mu/ be foll[$ by ! correct title1 su* z ,yes1 ,monsieur or ,no1 ,madame4 ,9 ! morn+1 ^u greet+ an acqua9tance1 no matt] h[ slightly y "k him1 x is correct to say1 ,bonj\r1 ,monsieur4 ,:5 express+ ?anks = a c\rtesy or = reque/$ in=mation1 "o says1 ,m]ci1 ,madame4 ,& ! cu/om>y f>ewell is ,au revoir1 ,mademoiselle4 ,polit5ess is univ]sal 9 ,france4 ,"o greets %op cl]ks z cordially z "o greets "o's be/ fri5d4 ,^u ent]+ ! ,fr5* %op "o %\ld say ,bonj\r1 ,monsieur to ! floorwalk]1 & ,bonj\r1 ,madame to ! saleslady4 ,9 ! re/aurant x is prop] to say ,m]ci1 ,monsieur1 to ! head wait] :o %[s y to y\r place4 ,! wait]s are address$ z g>con1 b ! waitresses are call$ ,madame or ,mademoiselle4 ,if "o happ5s to bru% aga9/ someone accid5tally1 or to get into someone's way1 x is v important t polite apologies be (f]$4 ,to hurry on )\t s mu* z say+1 ,p>don1 ,monsieur1 is extremely rude1 & ,fr5*m5 are quick to notice x4 ,!y are v c\rte\s & !y expect visitors to be ! same4 ,,address+ ,,titl$ ,,p ,,9 ,,france ,monsieur le ,comte is ! correct mode ( address to employ t[>ds a ,c\nt 9 ,france4 ,a ,b>on is address$ z ,monsieur le ,b>on4 ,8 wife1 h[ev]1 is call$ simply ,madame----4 ,(fic]s 9 ! ,army are address$ 9 ! foll[+ mann]3 ,mon ,capita9e1 ,mon ,g5]al1 etc4 ,x is a decid$ brea* ( good conduct to address an (fic] 9 ! ,fr5* army z ,monsieur1 especially :5 he is 9 uni=m4 ,:5 speak+ ab\t a c]ta9 (fic]1 "o may say1 ,le ,g5]al ,d5bigh4 ,! conci]ge & 8 wife are kn[n m]ely z ,monsieur & ,madame4 ,! p>i% prie/1 h[ev]1 is spok5 ( & to z1 ,monsieur le cure4 ,a nun is address$ always z ,ma ,soeur4 ,be c>eful n to =get ! correct =ms ( address 9 ,france1 = ,fr5*m5 are quick to take (f5se & mu* ill-w may unwitt+ly be incurr$ by ! ,am]ican man or woman :o does n pay prop] respect :]e x is due1 :o does n use ! correct titles at ! correct "t4 ,& ! ,am]ican travel] 9 ,france %\ld rememb] t 8 mann]s & conduct 9 t c\ntry reflect n only ^u 8 own mann]s & bre$+1 b ^u ! mann]s & cu/oms ( ! c\ntry he repres5ts4 ,,c]ta9 ,,fr5* ,,conv5tions ,9 ,france ! fir/ recognition ( acqua9tance%ip mu/ come f ! g5tleman4 ,= in/ance1 if a "y ,am]ican man makes ! acqua9tance ( a "y ,fr5* woman1 %e w expect him to raise 8 hat :5 !y meet aga91 be=e %e nods to him4 ,9 ,am]ica x is ! rev]se--! "y lady has ! privilege ( ackn[l$g+ or ignor+ an acqua9tance%ip4 ,n only mu/ ! hat be rais$ to wom51 9 ,france1 b to m5 also4 ,a "y ,am]ican & a "y ,fr5*man :o are kn[n to ea* o!r raise _! hats simultane\sly :5 !y enc\nt] ea* o!r on ! /reet4 ,b :5 ! ,fr5*man is ! eld] ( ! two1 or ! m di/+ui%$1 ! ,am]ican is expect$ to wait until he makes ! fir/ motion ( recognition4 ,! ,am]ican :o /ops at a small hotel 9 ,france = a p]iod ( two days or m1 %\ld feel x 8 duty to nod c\rte\sly to e woman gue/ ( ! hotel he *ances to meet1 :e!r or n %e is a total /rang]4 ,?is is consid]$ a conv5tional c\rtesy :i* all well-br$ p 9 ,france obs]ve4 ,h[ev]1 x does n s]ve ! purpose ( an introduction1 & ! ,am]ican mu/ n make ! mi/ake ( ?9k+ t ?is privilege entitles him to address ! wom5 gue/s )\t ! introduction ( a mutual fri5d or acqua9tance4 ,fr5*m5 always /& ) heads uncov]$ :5 a fun]al passes1 & wom5 b[ = a mom5t4 ,! well-br$ ,am]ican man & woman 9 ,france w also obs]ve ?is cu/om4 ,nor w !y neglect to rema9 /&+ :ile ! ,m>sellaise is be+ sung4 ,,d9n] ,,etiquette ,an invitation to d9e %\ld be accept$ or decl9$ promptly :5 "o is visit+ 9 ,france4 ,& "o may n decl9e unless "o has a v good excuse1 su* z hav+ a previ\s engagem5t1 or be+ call$ away on ! day set = ! d9n]4 ,x is consid]$ polite to arrive tw5ty m9utes or a half-h\r be=e d9n] is s]v$4 ,if x is a =mal & elaborate d9n]1 ev5+ dress %\ld be worn2 b aft]noon or semi-ev5+ dress is appropriate = ! in=mal d9n]4 ,x is n at all incorrect1 if "o is 9 d\bt1 to ask ! ho/ or ho/ess :e!r "o %\ld we> full dress or n4 ,x is c]ta9ly wis] ?an to make oneself conspicu\s by we>+ diff]5t dress f all ! o!r gue/s4 ,9 ,france1 ! ord] 9 :i* ! gue/s proce$ to d9n] is z foll[s3 ! ho/ leads ! way ) ! woman gue/ ( honor1 or ! mo/ di/+ui%$ woman gue/1 on 8 arm4 ,directly beh9d him foll[s ! ho/ess on ! arm ( ! mascul9e gue/ to be honor$2 & !y are foll[$ by ! o!r gue/s1 :o proce$ arm 9 arm4 ,accord+ to ! late/ d9n] etiquette 9 ,france1 c(fee is s]v$ = bo? ! m5 & wom5 at ! d9n] table4 ,b :5 ! d9n] is v l>ge & fa%ionable1 x is /ill cu/om>y = ! wom5 to retire to ! draw+-room1 :]e ! ho/ess presides ov] ! c(fee-urn4 ,:5 m5 & wom5 leave ! d9+-room toge!r1 !y resume ! same ord] z !y obs]v$ :5 !y ent]$ x4 ,! ,am]ican :o is a gue/ at a =mal d9n] 9 ,france %\ld pay a call ^u ! ho/ess )9 a week's "t4 ,?is call is kn[n z ! visite de dige/ion4 ,,fr5* ,,w$d+ ,,etiquette ,w$d+s are occasions ( solemn dignity 9 e c\ntry1 b 9 ,france !y are p]haps m dignifi$ ?an any:]e else4 ,"h no rice & old %oes are ca/ aft] ! bride & bridegroom--x w\ld be consid]$ a mo/ %ock+ ?+ to d4 ,good wi%es1 politely express$1 are ! only good-by (f]+s ( fri5ds & relatives4 ,!re are usually two c]emonies to be celebrat$ at ! ,fr5* w$d+--fir/ ! civil1 & lat] ! religi\s1 m>riage4 ,at ! civil w$d+1 :i* is held two or ?ree days be=e ! religi\s c]emony1 only a few intimate fri5ds & relatives ( ! two families are pres5t4 ,b ! c]emony at *ur* is a v important affair & all fri5ds & acqua9tances ( bo? families are invit$ to att5d4 ,^? :o _c att5d %\ld s5d c>ds ( regret to ! bride's p>5ts4 ,,balls ,v elaborate & gay inde$ are ! balls ( ,france4 ,!re is1 = in/ance1 ! bals blancs1 at :i* all ladies are g[n$ 9 pure :ite & only maid5s & ba*elors are expect$ to be pres5t4 ,m5 gue/s at ! bal blanc we> ! conv5tional ev5+ dress4 ,at a ball 9 ,france1 a g5tleman may reque/ to dance ) a lady )\t hav+ fir/ be5 introduc$ to h]4 ,ev5 a total /rang] may approa* a lady on ! ballroom floor & ask = a dance4 ,b x is consid]$ v bad =m = a "y man & woman to sit out a dance toge!r or retire to ! v]&a or lawn4 ,,ab\t ,,calls ,,& ,,c>ds ,if "o expects to rema9 9 ,france any l5g? ( "t at all1 x is important t "o "k & und]/& ! etiquette ( calls & c>ds 9 t c\ntry4 ,calls are paid j z frequ5tly 9 ,france z !y are 9 ,am]ica4 ,betwe5 two & six o'clock 9 ! aft]noon is ! correct "t = call+ 9 ! =m] c\ntry4 ,"o obs]ves v mu* ! same conv5tions ( call+ t "o does "h 9 ,am]ica1 except t ! g5tleman we>s bo? 8 gloves :5 ent]+ a draw+-room1 & t ! ho/ess does n rise to welcome a mascul9e call]4 7,h[ev]1 ! ,fr5* ho/ess always does rise to greet an eld]ly g5tleman1 a di/+ui%$ p]son1 or a memb] ( ! cl]gy47 ,fr5* introductions are nev] haphaz>d1 nev] c>eless4 ,! ho/ess introduces freely all ! gue/s t assemble 9 h] home1 b %e is n1 z ! ,am]ican ho/ess sometimes is1 c>eless & hurri$4 ,9 ackn[l$g+ an introduction1 a brief1 polite greet+ %\ld be express$2 ,fr5* p r>ely %ake h&s4 ,! significance ( ! b5t visit+ c>d /ill rema9s 9 ,france1 ?\gh "h 9 ,am]ica x has be5 almo/ entirely elim9at$4 ,:5 a ho/ess f9ds ! c>d ( a fri5d or acqua9tance1 ) "o ( its corn]s turn$ d[n1 %e kn[s t t fri5d call$ = ! purpose ( a visit b f\nd no "o at home4 ,9 fact1 t is almo/ ! only "t :5 c>ds are left 9 ,france--:5 ! p]son call$ ^u is n at home4 ,h[ev]1 a d9n] call is (t5 paid by ! simple process ( c>d-leav+4 ,,correspond5ce ,! ,fr5* p are v p>ticul> 9 _! correspond5ce4 ,c]ta9 set rules ( salutation & clos+ are obs]v$1 & ! m>g9s !mselves h a p>ticul> significance4 ,= in/ance1 :5 writ+ a lett] to a ,fr5* p]son1 a wide m>g9 %\ld be left on ! left side ( ! %eet2 & ! great] ! social pre/ige & di/9ction ( ! p]son address$1 ! wid] ?is m>g9 mu/ be4 ,a man writ+ to ano!r man :o is an intimate fri5d beg9s 8 lett] 9 ?is mann]3 ,mon *] ,fr$]ick1 or ,mon *] ami4 ,! clos+ to ?is lett] w\ld be1 ,bi5 a v\s1 or ,bi5 cordialem5t a v\s4 ,:5 ! two m5 are n intimate fri5ds1 a lett] %\ld beg91 ,*] ,monsieur1 or ,mon *] ,monsieur ,blank1 & %\ld end ) ,croyez a mes s5tim5ts dev\es4 ,/rang]s address ea* o!r m]ely z ,monsieur1 & close ) ,recevez je v\s prie l'assurance de ma consid]ation di/+uee4 ,:5 writ+ to a woman fri5d1 a man beg9s 8 lett] ) ,*]e ,madame et ami1 or ,*]e ,mademoiselle4 ,b :5 he is a /rang] or j a slight acqua9tance1 he beg9s 8 lett] ) ,madame & concludes x ) ,veuillez1 ,madame1 recevoir l'expression de t\t mon respect4 ,! ,fr5* h v pretty expressions ( greet+ & conclusion1 & !y expect e well-br$ p]son to use !m4 ,a woman writ+ to a g5tleman addresses him 9 ! foll[+ mann]1 if he is an intimate fri5d3 ,monsieur1 or ,*] ,monsieur ,br[n1 & %e closes ! lett] ) ! c\rtesy phrase1 ,agreez1 *] monsieur1 l'expression de mes s5tim5ts d'amitie4 ,greet+s & clos+s are m =mal :5 ! woman addresses a mascul9e /rang] or slight acqua9tance by lett]4 ,%e beg9s simply ) ,monsieur1 & closes )1 ,veuillez1 monsieur1 recevoir l'expression de mes s5tim5ts di/+ues4 ,special =ms ( address & conclusion are us$ :5 writ+ (fic]s 9 ! ,fr5* army4 ,a g5]al or comm&] are address$ 9 ! foll[+ mann]3 ,monsieur le g5]al1 or ,monsieur le comm&ant4 ,! lett] %\ld be c\*$ 9 t]ms ( mo/ exact respect4 ,tradespeople 9 ,france are address$ by lett] 9 ! foll[+ mann]3 ,monsieur ,c41 or ,madame ,c41 & ! conclusion %\ld be1 ,agreez1 ,monsieur ,c41 mes civilites4 ,a s]vant %\ld be address$ ) ,je prie ,m4 ,smi? 7or ,mad4 ,smi?7 de v\loir bi54 ,9 ,france abbreviations on ! envelope are consid]$ v bad =m4 ,m4 may nev] be us$ = ,monsieur1 nor may ,mlle1 be us$ = ,mademoiselle4 ,! full title & "n mu/ appe> on ! envelope4 ,,! ,,am]ican ,,9 ,,g]many ,! ,am]ican :o f9ds himself 9 ,g]many = ! fir/ "t is likely to be puzzl$ & emb>rass$ by ! num]\s diff]5t mann]s & cu/oms 9 ea* little t[n & du*y4 ,:at is correct 9 "o place1 may be incorrect else:]e4 ,?us x is impossible to give c]ta9 rules ( etiquette to be foll[$ by ! ,am]ican 9 ! ,g]man ,empire4 ,he mu/ be guid$ by good judgm5t & by ! advice ( 8 ,g]man fri5ds4 ,h[ev]1 "o may be c]ta9 ( "o ?+--?r\gh\t ! l5g? & bread? ( ! ,g]man empire ! greate/ c]emony is obs]v$ 9 correspond5ce ( all k9ds4 ,z great c\rtesy & respect is paid ! /rang] z ! fri5d4 ,:5 writ+ to a man or woman ( social di/9ction1 ?is impressive inscription appe>s on ! envelope & beg9s ! lett]3 ,to ! high & well-born ,mrs4 ,rob]t ,smi?4 ,x s\nds1 p]haps1 a trifle crude 9 ! ,engli%1 b 9 ! native ,g]man x is a pretty & c\rte\s phrase & a true expression ( respect4 ,:5 writ+ to a p]son ( less] social importance1 z a bus9ess lett]1 = in/ance1 "o %\ld beg9 ) ,honor$ ,sir4 ,! expression1 ,lieb] ,freund1 %\ld be us$ only :5 writ+ in=mally to a de> fri5d4 ,9 fact1 ! same me?od ( address z is us$ 9 writ+ ,engli% lett]s may be us$ :5 writ+ to fri5ds & acqua9tances 9 ,g]many4 ,! h\rs = pay+ calls & leav+ c>ds diff] 9 ! v>i\s localities4 ,ord9>ily1 ! correct "t w\ld be betwe5 half-pa/ ?ree & half-pa/ f\r o'clock 9 ! aft]noon1 al?\gh 9 "s localities calls are n consid]$ correct be=e five o'clock4 ,9 ,g]many1 c>d-leav+ %\ld be foll[$ 9 ! same mann] z c>d-leav+ 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates4 ,:5 meet+ a fem99e acqua9tance 9 ,g]many1 ! ,am]ican g5tleman does n wait = recognition to come f h]1 b imm$iately b[s & raises 8 hat4 ,z 9 ,france1 he may reque/ a lady to dance ) him1 at a ball1 )\t hav+ fir/ reque/$ an introduction4 ,& also1 z 9 ,france1 x is consid]$ polite to b[ & raise "o's hat to ! ladies :o are at ! same hotel1 al?\gh "h aga91 ! privilege does n s]ve z an introduction4 ,at all times1 m5 & wom5 9 ,g]many %\ld be giv5 full recognition ( _! titles & positions4 ,a ,g]man woman always enjoys ! title be/[$ ^u h] husb&4 ,! wife ( a g5]al expects to be address$ z ,mrs4 ,g5]al ,blank1 & ! wife ( a doctor %\ld be call$ ,mrs4 ,doctor ,blank4 ,m5 ( (ficial or pr(essional rank & titles are address$ z1 ,mr4 ,pr(essor1 ,mr4 ,g5]al1 ,mr4 ,doctor1 etc4 ,h]r ,doktor ,smi? is ! correct ,g]man =m--& to omit ! ,h]r is a brea* ( good conduct4 ,,! ,,p]fect ,,am]ican ,,t\ri/ ,un=tunately1 !re are "s ,am]icans :o g abroad ea* ye> m]ely because x is ! fa%ion to d s1 & because !y wi% to impress _! fri5ds & acqua9tances at home ) _! social di/9ction & importance4 ,^! p are wont to let _! money talk = !m--in/ead ( _! mann]s4 ,b !re are _m ?+s t weal? w n excuse2 & among !m is lack ( c\rtesy & bre$+4 ,! ,am]ican abroad1 :e!r he is travel+ = pa/ime1 pleasure or bus9ess1 %\ld rememb] prim>ily t he is a repres5tative ( ! ,unit$ ,/ates1 & t z su* he owes 8 c\ntry ! duty ( mak+ 8 mann]s a poli%$ reflection ( ! mann]s ( all ,am]icans4 ,he mu/ be c\rte\s1 polite1 k9d1 g5tlemanly4 ,he mu/ con=m ) ! cu/oms ( ! c\ntry he *ances to be 91 & he mu/ avoid all sugge/ion ( sup]iority on 8 "p1 or disda9 = ! cu/oms ( ! o!r c\ntry4 ,!re is a c]ta9 fell[-feel+1 a c]ta9 sympa?y & k9dl9ess t c take ! place ( conv5tionalities :5 "o is n sure ( ! cu/oms ( c]ta9 c\ntries4 ,p]haps y d n "k ! ,fr5* language1 & y wi% to h a w9d[ rais$ :ile y are travel+ on a ,fr5* railroad4 ,is x =givable to b5d across a man or woman & raise ! w9d[ )\t a ^w ( excuse1 or a cordial smile ( und]/&+8 ,& yet h[ (t5 d we see ?is ?+ done6 ,_m a seem+ly well-br$ man or woman w raise ! w9d[ next to ano!r man or woman )\t s mu* z ask+ p]mission to d s6 ,! prop] ?+ to d :5 "o does n "k ! language1 is to smile 9 a cordial mann] to ! p]son or p]sons 9 ! vic9ity ( ! w9d[1 indicate t y w\ld l to h x rais$1 & wait until y\r reque/ is und]/ood & grant$ be=e y v5ture to raise x4 ,!n a polite ,m]ci1 :i* means ,?ank y1 & :i* ev]yone %\ld "k & rememb]1 %\ld be giv54 ,x is n always easy to d & say :at is absolutely correct :5 "o is 9 a /range c\ntry among p :o speak a /range language4 ,b he :o is k9d & c\rte\s at all times1 :o has a ready smile & a poli%$ mann]1 w avoid mu* ( ! emb>rassm5t t awaits ! t\ri/ :o is indiff]5t & c>eless4 ,! prov]b1 ,all doors op5 to c\rtesy1 is z true 9 ,france & ,engl& z x is 9 ,am]ica4 ,,app5dix ,,=eign ,,words ,,9 ,,frequ5t ,,social ,,usage ,ad inf9itum1 ,l41 to inf9ity4 ,a la c>te1 ,fr41 accord+ to ! bill ( f>e at table4 ,a la mode1 ,fr41 accord+ to ! mode or fa%ion4 ,a la ,russe1 ,fr41 accord+ to ! ,russian fa%ion 7individual portions74 ,a propos1 ,l41 to ! po9t4 ,au fait1 ,fr41 well-v]s$ 9 social cu/om4 ,au revoir1 ,fr41 good-by till we meet aga94 ,b5 educato1 ,x41 well educat$4 ,billet d'am\r1 ,fr41 love lett]4 ,blase1 ,fr41 _w-we>y4 ,bona fide1 ,l41 9 good fai?4 ,bonbonni]e1 ,fr41 bonbon di%4 ,bon j\r1 ,fr41 good morn+2 good day4 ,bon ton1 ,fr41 fa%ionable society4 ,bon voyage1 ,fr41 good j\rney to y4 ,b\illion1 ,fr41 a cle> bro?4 ,b\tonni]e1 ,fr41 a fl[] = ! buttonhole4 ,buffet1 ,fr41 a sidebo>d = *9a1 silv] or glass4 ,c>te blan*e1 ,fr41 unconditional p]mission4 ,*ancel1 ,l41 space 9 *ur* res]v$ = ! (ficiat+ cl]gy4 ,*]e amie1 ,fr41 de> fri5d 7fem474 ,coiffure1 ,fr41 dress+ ( ! hair4 ,collation1 ,fr41 a light repa/4 ,compoti]s1 ,fr41 di% = s]v$ /ew$ fruits or bonbons4 ,corsage b\quet1 ,fr41 fl[]s fa/5$ on bodice4 ,cortege1 ,fr41 a =mal procession4 ,cot]ie1 ,fr41 a social set2 a clique4 ,cotillon1 ,fr41 a dance = f\r c\ples4 ,c\p d'etat1 ,fr41 a sudd5 decisive bl[ 9 politics4 ,debutante1 ,fr41 a "y lady j introduc$ to society4 ,decollete1 ,fr41 fa%ionably l[-cut = ev5+ we>4 ,de luxe1 ,fr41 ( luxury2 made ) unusual elegance4 ,d5\em5t1 ,fr41 ! issue4 ,dramatis p]sonae1 ,l41 *>act]s 9 ! play4 ,de trop1 ,fr41 too mu*1 too _m4 ,demoiselle1 ,fr41 "y lady4 ,eclat1 ,fr41 r5[n1 glory4 ,elite1 ,fr41 bett] society4 ,en buffet1 ,fr41 s]v$ f ! buffet2 no tables4 ,en de%abille1 ,fr41 9 undress2 negligee4 ,en masse1 ,fr41 9 a mass4 ,en r\te1 ,fr41 on ! way4 ,en suite1 ,fr41 9 company4 ,en toilette1 ,fr41 9 full dress4 ,entree1 ,fr41 a side-di%1 s]v$ z "o c\rse ( a meal4 ,entre n\s1 ,fr41 betwe5 ourselves4 ,ensemble1 ,fr41 all toge!r4 ,e pluribus unum1 ,l41 "o out ( _m4 ,et cet]a1 ,l41 & ev]y?+ ( ! sort4 ,et tu1 ,brute1 ,l41 & ?\ also1 ,brutus4 ,eureka1 ,gr41 ,i h f\nd x4 ,fete1 ,fr41 a fe/ive social occasion4 ,fete *ampetre1 ,fr41 an op5-air fe/ival or ent]ta9m5t4 ,filets mignon1 ,fr41 small pieces ( beef t5d]lo91 s]v$ ) sauce4 ,f9esse1 ,fr41 social art 9 its highe/ conception4 ,fondant1 ,fr41 s(t ic+ or glace4 ,f9is1 ,fr41 ! end4 ,g>con1 ,fr41 boy4 ,grace a ,dieu1 ,fr41 grace ( ,god4 ,hors d'oeuvre1 ,fr41 out ( c\rse2 special c\rse4 ,9 memorium1 ,l41 to ! memory (4 ,le beau monde1 ,fr41 ! fa%ionable _w4 ,lettre de ca*et1 ,fr41 a seal$ lett]4 ,ma *]e1 ,fr41 my de> 7fem474 ,mal de m]1 ,fr41 sea-sickness4 ,m>di gras1 ,fr41 ,%rove ,tuesday4 ,mayonnaise1 ,fr41 a salad sauce ( egg1 oil1 v9eg> & spices beat5 toge!r4 ,m5u1 ,fr41 bill ( table f>e4 ,mon ami1 ,fr41 my fri5d 7mon amie1 fem474 ,musicale1 ,fr41 private conc]t4 ,negligee1 ,fr41 morn+ dress2 easy1 loose dress4 ,noblesse oblige1 ,fr41 rank imposes obligations2 mu* is expect$ f "o 9 good position4 ,nom de plume1 ,fr41 an assum$ "n ( a writ]4 ,notre ,dame1 ,fr41 ,our ,lady4 ,o ,tempora6 ,o ,mores6 ,l41 ,oh ! times6 ,oh ! mann]s6 ,passe1 ,fr41 out ( date4 ,p5*ant1 ,fr41 a /rong or p>ticul> lik+4 ,piece de resi/ance1 ,fr41 some?+ sub/antial by way ( ent]ta9m5t2 mo/ sub/antial c\rse ( a d9n]2 lit]ally1 a piece ( resi/ance 7a ma9 ev5t or incid5t74 ,p\r pr5dre conge1 ,fr41 to dep>t1 take leave4 7,p4p4c4 on call+ c>ds mean+ ! dep>ture ( a call] = a long voyage1 h5ce a p>t+ call47 ,prima donna1 ,ital41 ! *ief woman vocali/ ( a conc]t4 ,pro patria1 ,l41 = our c\ntry4 ,protegee1 ,fr41 "u ! protection ( ano!r4 ,r5dezv\s1 ,fr41 an appo9t$ place = a meet+4 ,r4s4v4p41 ,fr41 7,repondez s'il v\s plait71 please reply4 ,requiescat 9 pace1 ,l41 may he 7%e7 re/ 9 peace4 ,resume1 ,fr41 a summ>y or ab/ract4 ,salon1 ,fr41 a draw+-room2 ! room :]e gue/s are receiv$4 ,sang froid1 ,fr41 coolness1 indiff]5ce4 ,sans s\ci1 ,fr41 )\t c>e4 ,savoir faire1 ,fr41 k ( social cu/oms2 tact4 ,table a mang]1 ,fr41 d9+-table4 ,table d'hote1 ,fr41 a public d9n] at hotel or re/aurant4 ,tr\sseau1 ,fr41 ! bridal outfit4 ,t\t de suite1 ,fr41 imm$iately4 ,t\t ensemble1 ,fr41 all toge!r4 ,v5i1 ,vidi1 ,vici1 ,l41 ,i came1 ,i saw1 ,i conqu]$4 ,v]batim1 ,l41 ^w = ^w4 ,vis-a-vis1 ,fr41 face-to-face4 ,voila1 ,fr41 behold2 !re y are6 99 99 99 99 99 ,! foll[+ *anges h be5 made3 7note ( etext transcrib]7 because ( someone's else magnific5t p>tiesbecause ( someone else's magnific5t p>ties avalanceavalan*e ones own s5se"o's own s5se ,_m g5tlem51 :ile speak+ to ladies 9 ! /reet1 /& ) _! uncov]$,_m g5tlem51 :ile speak+ to ladies 9 ! /reet1 /& ) _! heads uncov]$ adddress$address$ ,repondez s'il v\s plait,repondez s'il v\s plait ! ! eld]ly woman! eld]ly woman be be paid ! taxi-driv]be paid ! taxi-driv] be ill at ea/be ill at ease