,,an ,,embroid]y ,,book ,,anci5t ,,egyptian1 ,,assyrian1 ,,& ,,p]sian ,,co/umes ,,& ,,decorations4 ,by ,m>y ,g4 ,h\/on & ,flor5ce ,s4 ,hornbl[]4 ,conta9+ #be full-page illu/rations1 sixte5 ( !m 9 col\r1 & #fj l9e diagrams 9 ! text4 ,small cr[n qu>to4 ,9 ?is volume ! hi/ory ( ,co/ume is trac$ f ! e>lie/ ages4 ,! illu/rations 7:i* are tak5 *iefly f ! ,briti% ,museum7 are giv5 9 facsimile f ! draw+s ( ! arti/s ( ! p]iod1 &1 :]e ! draw+ is too primitive to be easily und]/ood1 a g>m5t is also %[n drawn 9 mod]n /yle2 9 addition1 e type ( g>m5t illu/rat$ is accompani$ by a flat patt]n %[+ ! cut4 ,in=mation ( ?is special "* on ,anci5t ,co/ume is usually v difficult to obta91 & x is anticipat$ t ! volume w be ( fir/-rate importance to dress design]s1 to !atrical design]s1 & also to ! s*ools 9 :i* hi/orical co/ume & ! hi/ory ( ! progress ( ! human race are subjects = /udy4 ,,publi%$ ,,by ,a4 ,c4 ,,black1 ,,ltd41 #d1 #e #f1 ,,soho ,,squ>e1 ,,london1 ,w4 #a4 ,,ag5ts ,,am]ica ,,! ,,macmillan ,,company #fd #ff ,fif? ,av5ue1 ,,new ,,york ,,au/ralasia ,,ox=d ,,univ]sity ,,press #bje1 ,fl9d]s ,lane1 ,,melb\rne ,,canada ,,! ,,macmillan ,,company ,,( ,,canada1 ,,ltd4 ,/4 ,m>t9's ,h\se1 #gj ,bond ,/reet1 ,,toronto ,,india ,,macmillan ,,& ,,company1 ,,ltd4 ,macmillan ,build+1 ,,bombay #cji ,b[ ,baza> ,/reet1 ,,calcutta ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,i4 ,a ,,table ,,mat4 7,see page #da47 ,,an ,,embroid]y ,,book ,,by ,,anne ,,knox ,,ar?ur ,,glasg[ ,,s*ool ,,( ,,art ,,conta9+ ,,sixte5 ,,full-,,page ,,illu/rations --,,eight ,,( ,,!m ,,9 ,,col\r--,,& ,,eighty- ,,sev5 ,,l9e ,,illu/rations ,,9 ,,! ,,text ,a4 ,c4 ,,black1 ,,ltd4 #d1 #e #f1 ,,soho ,,squ>e1 ,,london1 ,w4 #a4 #aibj 8,g1 little booke2 ,god s5d !e good passage0 ,,to ,,my ,,"m ,,note ,! ,au?or's ?anks are due to ! own]s ( ! pieces ( embroid]y illu/rat$ 9 ?is book :o k9dly l5t !m to h] = reproduction3--,miss ,beatrice ,brooks1 ,miss ,m>ion ,boyd1 ,miss ,janetta ,s4 ,gillespie1 ,miss ,m>y ,a4 ,gill1 ,miss ,m>?a ,/ev5son1 ,miss ,elspe? ,/ew>t1 ,miss ,jessie ,gibson 7/ud5ts ( ! ,glasg[ ,s*ool ( ,art72 also to ,miss ,kay1 ,p>khur/1 ,c$>s1 ,d]by1 = ! loan ( ?ree pieces work$ by h] pupils4 ,,=eword ,n[ t _m ( our busy work+ p h bett] regulations z reg>ds ! h\rs ( ! day's "w1 !re is great ne$ to provide occupation = ! day's leisure2 & ne$lework1 z a leisure craft1 is "o ( ! mo/ refre%+ & pleasant & pr(itable s\rces ( ent]ta9m5t--provid$ always1 t ^? :o und]take x realise t1 ) "r ?\ght & consid]ation on ! "p ( e work]1 ea* %\ld become1 z x 71 a law unto h]self1 s t %e %\ld realise also t %e ne$1 "u no circum/ance1 be ! slave ( old traditions1 if %e c give fitt+ reasons = mak+ a *ange :i* is to ! purpose ( h] "w4 ,to be 9 a heal?y & liv+ /ate1 our art %\ld be con/antly *ang+ its fa%ion2 if x /&s /ill1 x is retrograde1 & = "s few g5]ations we may say ?is ( ,briti% embroid]y4 ,:at *anges x has und]gone are due almo/ entirely to ! comm]cial ent]prise ( manufactur]s ( pr9t$ patt]ns--usually =eign ones4 ,! importation became v consid]able ) ! introduction ( s-call$ ,b]l9 woolwork1 & s9ce t p]iod ! ,briti% ne$lewoman has set aside h] own +5i\s arrangem5ts & foll[s bl9dly :]e ! m]*ant leads1 & ,briti% design = ne$lework1 z an expression ( its p1 is almo/ a dead ?+4 ,mo/ p h a sup]/ition t 9 k ( a multitude ( /it*es lies ! :ole my/]y ( ne$lework4 ,?is is emphatically n ! case4 ,!re really is no my/]y ab\t /it*es2 !y are b ! lett]s ( ! ne$lework]'s alphabet1 & ! words ( h] language--to be us$ accord+ to h] own ideas4 ,"o may embroid] poems2 ano!r may embroid] pray]s & praises = h] *ur*2 ano!r may beautify a fair woman's g>m5t or s+ a little song 9 /it*es = a baby's robe2 yet ano!r may be l a treatise on surg]y1 repair+ & re/or+ t :i* has be5 damag$4 ,b ne$lework does n exi/ = ! /it*es4 ,x is ! /it*es :i*--z !y are well or ill-us$--express ! work]1 &1 if %e is a wise work]1 %e c f9d out = h]self mo/ ( ! /it*es %e ne$s4 ,nor is x necess>y to be at great exp5se 9 ne$lework1 inde$1 = ^? :o take x up z a recreative craft half ! int]e/ may lie 9 ! fact t no mat]ial is too common or too homely to be made into some?+ fitt+ &1 !re=e1 beautiful--s9ce ! true/ art is to make a ?+ pleas+ to ! eye & yet entirely suit$ to ! purpose4 ,! commone/ fail+ ( ! design]s ( ?is c\ntry is t !y ?9k t beauty lies 9 ! elaboration ( ornam5t1 & ?is is :y ! fa%ions ( ,briti% dressmak]s fall %ort ( ^? abroad4 ,x is ! little simple contrivances1 t are almo/ no m ?an a sort ( lov+ f9i% to ! actual con/ruction ( a piece ( "w1 t give ! highe/ /&>d ( /yle 9 g>m5ts3 & ! be/ tra9+ a ne$lewoman c h is to make h] seams1 hems1 op5+s & fa/5+s ( g>m5ts or h\sehold fitm5ts ?+s ( beauty1 :ile1 at ! same "t1 %e consid]s ! uses & purpose ( h] "w4 ,x is z a piece ( eng9e]+ we %\ld consid] ! con/ruction ( our h\sehold hang+s & cov]s ( our g>m5ts--plann+ t decoration %\ld be co>se or f9e1 z fits ! mat]ial1 & tak+ ?\ght also = ! wa%+ & we>+ ( x4 ,! fa%ions ( to-day %[ a v m>k$ t5d5cy to decorative con/ruction1 due 9 great measure to a *ange 9 ! ne$lework = s*ool *ildr5 introduc$ a few ye>s ago4 ,! t5d5cy %[s mo/ int]e/+ results1 especially 9 ! fact t ! %ap+ ( clo?+ has become v simple & t g>m5ts dep5d almo/ entirely on /it*]y = _! decoration1 r ?an on manufactur$ braids & trimm+s2 & ! /yles & %apes are inf9itely less /]eotyp$1 s t clo?+ = wom5 t5ds to express m ne>ly ! p]sonality ( ! we>] ?an x has done = _m g5]ations4 ,! "w ( ! h&--z ap>t f t ( ! ma*9e--is m & m 9 dem&1 & decorative ne$lework1 ev5 9 our %ops1 is becom+ m to be desir$1 = unique & p]sonal *>act]i/ics & expression1 ?an x has be5 = a v long p]iod4 ,?is be+ ! case1 let our ne$lewoman take c\rage & realise t 9 ea* m9d !re are possibilities ( new ideas & new inv5tions--t all mat]ials op5 up new opportunities1 & t ) little lab\r %e may greatly enhance & beautify ! ?+s %e works & f9d appreciative op5+ = h] skill4 ,nev] 0 !re su* univ]sal dem& = h&work ( e k9d1 & = su* h\sehold fitt+s1 :i* t5d t[>ds economy & lab\r sav+ 9 p>ticul>1 ! ne$ is almo/ unlimit$4 ,"s ( ! mo/ int]e/+ embroid]ies done dur+ ! la/ few ye>s h be5 plann$ & c>ri$ out 9 "s ( our ,scotti% s*ools by untra9$ work]s--designs s simple t ! work]s d n realise t !y are design+ at all--s9ce !y draw l>gely ) ne$le & ?read alone1 & h little assi/ance f *alk & o!r m>k+s4 ,& x is ?is type ( "w1 usually sewn 9 co>se y>ns & on r\gh canvas1 flannel or homespun1 t is p]haps ! mo/ happy & mo/ /imulat+ = a design] ( ne$lework to beg9 on4 ,! "w is s quickly a*iev$--s gallant & bright 9 col\r--s utilit>ian 9 purpose & ( s little co/ 9 outlay1 t x is above all o!rs to be recomm5d$4 ,x ne$s no exp]i5ce 9 /it*]y to "w 9 bright wools1 if ! mat]ial is firm & /rong1 & ! writ] has pleasant exp]i5ce ( maid-s]vants & village wives 9 ! nor? c\ntry mak+ admirable rugs1 g>m5ts1 & o!r embroid]ies1 :i* comm& good prices at ! ,artific]s' ,guilds & o!r places :]e a high arti/ic /&>d ( design is requir$4 ,x is only by means ( su* c\nt] attractions 9 /imulat+ leisure crafts1 :i* pay _! way z well z give pleasure to ! work]s1 t we c cont5d ) ! _s ( re/less excitem5t & crav+ = m]e pleasure-giv+ t is s m>k$ a sign ( ! e>ly days ( peace1 & recon/ruction c only come by c\nt]+ ?is mis*iev\s t5d5cy 9 "y p by giv+ !m some?+ t gives /imulus to _! long+ = brightness & yet does n unduly tax ^? ^: days may be occupi$ 9 /r5u\s employm5t4 ,h[ desirable x is t su* ga!r+s ( wom5 & girls z *ur* sew+ meet+s1 guilds & clubs1 %\ld take up su* new ideas 9 ne$lework & apply = a compet5t in/ructor4 ,h[ almo/ m desirable is x t m5 might realise ! pleasure a ne$le c give if appli$ to bold con/ruction & orig9al "w4 ,x is by no means univ]sal ov] ! _w t ne$lework is a wom5's craft2 9 _m c\ntries x is done q z mu*1 if n m1 by ! m51 & x is probable t if our m5 took up ?is craft1 x w\ld %[ a v m>k$ t5d5cy to individual & orig9al expression4 ,! p[] ( inv5tion is s great & s]i\s a factor1 t x is almo/ too big a ?+ to t\* ^u "h4 ,we d n exagg]ate its importance :5 we say t ?is faculty 9 human be+s is :at we c ju/ly call ! ,holy ,gho/1 = x is t 9 u :i* comes1 n ( ourselves1 b f direct inspiration1 & ! fir/ pr9ciple ( education ought to be to op5 our m9ds to x1 9 h[soev] small & humble a fa%ion x comes1 & to make cle> ! way = its developm5t & gr[? t[>ds great] ?+s4 ,,ann ,,macbe?4 ,,glasg[ ,,s*ool ,,( ,,art4 ,,cont5ts ,,*apt] ,,page ,i4 ,,introductory #a ,,ii4 ,,! ,,art ,,& ,,craft ,,( ,,embroid]y--,,! ,,six ,,po9ts #e ,,iii4 ,,con/ruction ,,& ,,design #ah ,,iv4 ,,d>n+ ,,/it*es--,,backgr\nds ,,& ,,fill+s #bi ,v4 ,,ne$le-,,weav+--,,russian ,,op5-,,"w--,,l9k$ ,,/it*es #dj ,,vi4 ,,button-,,hole ,,& ,,bord] ,,/it*es--,,hem/it*+ ,,& ,,op5 ,,fill+s #ee ,,vii4 ,,laid ,,"w--,,basket ,,& ,,l9e ,,/it*es #fg ,,viii4 ,,c\*+--,,fr5* ,,knots ,,& ,,bullion ,,/it* #gi ,,ix4 ,,braids ,,& ,,design--,,faggot+--,,ve9+--,,antique ,,seams--,,knot ,,ins]tion ,,& ,,edg+ #hi ,x4 ,,ins]tions ,,9 ,,ne$le-,,weav+--,,po9t ,,de ,r,,prise--,,int]lac+ ,,& ,,op5work ,,backgr\nd #aja ,,xi4 ,,fr+es ,,& ,,tassels--,,h&-,,made ,,braids--,,knots ,,& ,,picots #aad ,,xii4 ,,drawn-,,?read ,,& ,,:ite ,,"w--,,rhodian1 ,,ri*elieu ,,& ,,h$ebo #acd ,,xiii4 ,,decorative ,,fl[]s ,,& ,,leaves--,,edg+ ,,& ,,ins]tion #aee ,,index #agi ,,li/ ,,( ,,illu/rations ,,plate ,,fac+ ,,page ,i4 99,a ,,table ,,mat ,frontispiece ,,ii4 ,,"s ,,useful ,,/it*es #ag ,,iii4 ,a ,,runn] ,,9 ,,cra% #cb ,,iv4 99,a ,,porti,,re #di ,v4 99,a ,,bureau ,,sc>f #fd ,,vi4 ,a ,,sidebo>d ,,clo? #fi ,,vii4 ,a ,,table ,,c5tre ,,9 ,,:ite ,,& ,,blue #gf ,,viii4 99,a ,,lun*eon ,,mat #ha ,,ix4 99,,?ree ,,coll>s #if ,x4 ,a ,,tea-,,cosy ,,cov] #aja ,,xi4 ,a ,,nightdress ,,case #ajh ,,xii4 99,,?ree ,,hat ,,b&s #aac ,,xiii4 99,a ,,bag ,,9 ,,canvas ,,& ,,wool #abh ,,xiv4 ,,corn] ,,( ,,cot ,,cov]let1 ,,unf9i%$ #adi ,,xv4 ,,two ,,simple ,,baskets #aef ,,xvi4 99,a ,,cu%ion ,,cov] #afh 99,^! illu/rations are 9 col\r4 ,,an ,,embroid]y ,,book ,,*apt] ,i ,,introductory 8,give h] ( ! fruit ( h] h&s2 & let h] own works praise h] 9 ! gates40 ,ne$lework1 z an arti/ic & practical craft1 is highly int]e/+ f a decorative po9t ( view1 & well )9 ! scope ( any intellig5t work]4 ,x has di/9ct advantages ov] mo/ crafts--x nei!r requires great initial outlay = app>atus or mat]ials1 nor does x dem& a special work%op2 ?us1 z a dome/ic art1 x comm5ds itself to _m ( u on acc\nt ( its adaptability to ! conditions ( life1 z well z = its decorative value--z a means ( add+ grace & beauty to our daily surr\nd+s4 ,dur+ ! ?irte5? & f\rte5? c5turies ,engl& 0 fam$ = ! beauty & magnific5ce ( its ecclesia/ical embroid]ies4 ,^! wond]ful works f\nd _! way into _m c\ntries & 7 eag]ly s\ght aft] by patrons ( ! beautiful2 _m pieces /ill exi/1 pres]v$ 9 our museums1 *ur*es1 or 9 private collections1 to %[ u :at extraord9>y ability & inv5tion ^! anci5t embroid]]s mu/ h _h4 ,aft] ! ,re=mation1 :5 !re 0 no long] ! great dem& = ecclesia/ical "w--embroid]]s turn$ _! att5tion to ! decoration ( g>m5ts to be worn by ! weal?i] classes4 ,9 ! 8,gold5 ,days ( ,good ,que5 ,bess10 & = "s "t lat]1 all ! +5uity & skill =m]ly appli$ solely to *ur* "w 0 be/[$ on ! decoration & beautify+ ( p]sonal clo?+--dresses1 cloaks1 coats1 wai/coats1 caps1 gloves1 etc42 nei!r "t1 lab\r1 nor exp5se 0 sp>$1 ! work]'s ideal evid5tly be+ to obta9 ! highe/ result ( :i* he or %e 0 capable4 ,"s ( ! qua9t patt]n books ( ^? days /ill exi/1 & !y consi/ mo/ly ( elem5ts--da9ty fl[] sprays1 sprigs1 fruits1 birds1 animals1 fi%es1 bord] patt]ns & geometrical =ms--all int5d$ to assi/ ! work]s 9 ! composition & build+ up ( _! designs & patt]ns4 ,9 ! busy _w ( n[adays1 we _c hope ev] to atta9 to su* p]fection1 nor to rega9 = embroid]y ! high position x once held 9 ?is c\ntry2 b we /ill h _m clev] ne$lewom5 :o c\ld produce beautiful "w provid$ !y _h a bett] k ( h[ to set ab\t x4 ,?is book has be5 plann$ ) ! hope t x may be ( use to _m1 & t x may create 9 bo? girls & wom5 ! desire to con/ruct & decorate = !mselves ^? simple articles ( daily use :i* co/ s mu* to buy & :i* c be made & embroid]$1 9 simple patt]ns1 ) a little k ( con/ruction & /it*]y1 at a mod]ate exp5diture ( "t & money4 ,p]haps ! reason :y s _m work]s buy _! mat]ials already /amp$ ) a design1 :i* (t5 proves unsuitable to ! purpose = :i* x is int5d$1 & :i* gives small satisfaction :5 embroid]$1 is because ( a c]ta9 di/ru/ ( !mselves1 a want ( k ( _! own p[]s ( inv5tion & +5uity2 or x may be a lack ( en]gy & initiative1 a reluctance to plan & create = !mselves1 due to ! fact t !y h nev] be5 taught to express _! own ideas1 b r to dep5d on ^? ( o!rs4 ,nev]!less1 ! s5se ( beauty is1 9 a great] or less degree1 common to u all4 ,:y1 !re=e1 %\ld a ne$lework] n develop h] own ideas r ?an ^? ( o!r work]s8 ,! design]1 = example1 :o may h z little k ( /it*]y z ! ne$lewoman has ( design1 & :o1 !re=e1 _c realise ! lab\r involv$ 9 its execution1 may lose mu* ( 8 effect & may wa/e ! "t ( ! embroid]]4 ,x is g5]ally agre$ t no two p h ! same ideas2 x is surely1 !n1 ( consid]able importance t ea* "o %\ld at lea/ make "s attempt to express 8 or h] own4 ,if scope is giv5 to ! creative & inv5tive p[]s !y1 l o!r faculties1 w gr[ 9 a mo/ inspirit+ mann]2 new ideas1 inh]5t in/9cts1 p]haps dormant hi!rto1 w spr+ up l fl[]s to enc\rage ! beg9n] on ! upw>d pa?1 & z int]e/ becomes ke5] & confid5ce gr[s1 difficulties :i* at fir/ appe>$ insurm\ntable w quietly disappe> z ! work] plans & ?9ks out a piece ( embroid]y f ! f\ndation4 ,h[ int]e/+ & attractive x w be to execute su* a piece ( "w1 :i* w express ! p]sonality ( ! work] 9 all p>ts1 design1 col\r & /it*]y4 ,great] te*nical excell5ce1 z well z *>m1 mu/ accrue2 ! embroid]ess w "w ) m judgm5t & und]/&+1 & because x has ga9$ s mu* 9 int]e/ to h]1 %e w be able to express h]self m freely1 & h] "w w convey & sugge/ m to o!rs4 ,,*apt] ,,ii ,,! ,,art ,,& ,,craft ,,( ,,embroid]y--,,! ,,six ,,po9ts 8,*aires1 ,/ooles & ,scre51 ! same1 all ( ,satt5 ,/it* done 9 ,wor/eads40 ,we %all n[ consid] ! six important po9ts ( design4 ,art & ,craft4--,_m wom5 h an inh]5t in/9ct = ne$lework--t is1 ! craft ( ! ne$le--= ! k ( h[ to use a ne$le & ?read is g5]ally easily acquir$2 b x is q o!rwise :5 ! design1 ! arti/ic or imag9ative "p1 has to be c>ri$ out1 z x ought to be1 by ! work]4 ,!n all sorts ( difficulties arise1 mo/ly imag9>y1 z ^? :o make an attempt may f9d4 ,let u "h consid] ! design z a necess>y "p ( ! workman%ip4 ,we %all be ambiti\s en\gh to /udy embroid]y f an arti/ic po9t1 = ! art & ! craft ought surely to g h& 9 h&4 ,! ,habit ( ,design4--,a special k ( draw+ is n ess5tial = patt]n mak+--a *ild w make delightful patt]ns--nor = simple designs compos$ ( /raight l9es & geometrical =ms1 su* z might be happily appli$ to bord]s = articles ( daily h\sehold use or = p]sonal we>4 ,a rul]1 a compass & a %eet ( squ>$ pap] are suffici5t = initial ef=ts3 & once ! habit ( simple design+ is acquir$ x c become a wond]fully absorb+ pa/ime1 = eyes t are op5$ to see w f9d designs on e side4 ,good ,ta/e & ,common ,s5se4--,to c>ry out a piece ( "w successfully1 h[ev]1 ! embroid]ess mu/ possess good ta/e & common s5se2 ^! are inde$ important qualities1 ! possession ( :i* w help ! beg9n] enorm\sly3 add to ^! an eye = col\r & =m1 a practical k ( ! /it*es commonly 9 use1 "s acqua9tance ) mat]ials1 _! utility & adaptability1 & ! work] w f9d h]self fairly well equipp$ to />t h] design4 ,! ,six ,po9ts4--,!re are ab\t six po9ts to be consid]$ 9 connection ) a piece ( embroid]y3-- ,! ,object & its ,use4--,we mu/ decide ?is1 be>+ 9 m9d ! position ! "w w occupy :5 f9i%$2 *oos+ a mat]ial suitable = ! purpose1 & ) due reg>d to ! re/rictions ( economy4 ,! ,col\r ,s*eme4--,consid] ! environm5t1 & let ! s*eme be 9 h>mony ) or 9 contra/ to ! backgr\nd & surr\nd+s4 ,! ,con/ruction4--,plan c>efully & arrange = ! decoration1 :i* %\ld nev] int]f]e ) ! usefulness ( ! f9i%$ "w4 ,! ,build+ up ( ! ,patt]n4--,?is %\ld always be done ) a view to ! limitations ( ! mat]ial4 ,! ,/it*]y4--,?is mu/ also be adapt$ to ! mat]ial--) bold1 effective types = ! co>s] wov5 /uffs1 & da9ti]1 clos] /it*]y = ! firmly wov5 textiles4 ,f9i%+ ,t\*es4--,a beg9n] r>ely realises ! importance ( ^!1 yet x is well wor? :ile be/[+ ?\ght on !m2 int]e/ may be consid]ably height5$ by su* additions or an o!rwise good piece ( "w r5d]$ less attractive by lack ( c>e & ?\ght at ! f9al /ages4 ,x w n[ be se5 t ! design--! lea/ m5tion ( :i* /rikes t]ror to ! s\l ( ! un9itiat$--does n consi/ 9 ! draw+ or ! mak+ up ( ! patt]n alone1 & t !re are important prelim9>y /ages to be gone ?r\gh4 ,inde$ ! design is well on its way by ! "t ! work] rea*es ! f\r? po9t1 i4e41 ! build+ up ( ! patt]n4 ,,! ,,fir/ ,,po9t3 ,,on ,,! ,,*oos+ ,,( ,,mat]ials1 ,,?reads1 ,,tools1 ,,etc4 ,mat]ials4--,mat]ials1 ?reads1 & ne$les are important items1 & %\ld be *os5 c>efully2 to sp5d "t & lab\r on embroid]y on a poor f\ndation is an extravagance r ?an an economy--! t5d5cy be+ to make up = ! poorness ( ! quality by ! pr(us5ess ( ! decoration4 ,mat]ials ne$ n be co/ly1 b !y %\ld be good ( _! k9d4 ,homely ,mat]ials4--,*>m+ ?+s c be made out ( homely clo?s1 remnants & oddm5ts4 ,texture1 tone & col\r %\ld be consid]$1 bo? f a practical & an arti/ic po9t ( view2 a backgr\nd t is pleasant to "w ^u is always an advantage4 ,l95s1 ( v>y+ quality & texture1 c be reli$ ^u = dome/ic purposes--!y make = good /it*]y1 !y wa% well1 & are v durable4 7,plate ,,vii47 ,"s unblea*$ mat]ials are extremely economical4 ,gre5h\se ,%ad+4--,a s(t creamy nett+ us$ = gre5h\se %ad+1 :i* may be obta9$ f any ( ! l>ge se$ m]*ants1 is made 9 diff]5t wid?s f #ed in*es to #gb in*es4 ,x has an op5 me% & l5ds itself to all types ( d>n+ & ne$le-weav+--! n>r[ wid?s make excell5t semi-transp>5t sa% curta9s1 :i* may be bright5$ by appli$ b&s ( col\r$ l95 or *9tz1 & f9i%$ ) r[s ( simple runn+ or tack+ /it* 9 wools or 9 "s ( ! co>s] makes ( embroid]y cottons4 7,plate ,,viii47 ,! ?ick] quality has a clos] me% & is admirable = cov]lets & hang+s4 ,^!1 :5 edg$ & decorat$ ) l9es ( bright-col\r$ wa%+ braids1 & wide bord]s ( col\r$ cretonnes--:i* aga9 may be connect$ ) b>s ( ne$le-weav+ or d>n+1 or any simple /it*]y--make *>m+ & economical articles1 su* z any h\sewife might well be pr\d to possess4 7,plates ,v4 & ,,vi47 ,cov]s & runn]s to mat* might complete ! set4 ,?is w\ld be a pleasant & in/ructive "w = a girl's leisure h\rs2 %e might make j su* a set = h] b$room1 ) ! addition ( *air cov]s & cu%ions1 adorn+ !m beautifully ) "s simple design & a col\r s*eme ( h] own *oos+4 ,damask & ,huckaback4--,damask l95s1 ) simple-patt]n$ backgr\nds1 twill$ %eet+s1 ( v>i\s makes1 & huckabacks1 c be us$ mo/ effectively = runn]s1 mats1 & lun*eon sets2 ! s(t1 w>m1 creamy tone ( ! unblea*$ mat]ial bl5ds h>moni\sly ) bright-col\r$ ?reads & wools4 ,titian ,canvas4--,_m co>s] & m loosely wov5 textures make mo/ *>m+ & desirable backgr\nds = b&s ( ne$le-weav+4 7,plate ,,vi47 ,co>se canvas 9 v>i\s col\r+s1 wooll5 hopsacks1 floor-clo?s1 etc41 are adaptable = _m h\sehold articles4 ,russian ,cra%4--,a common roll] t[ell+1 or ,russian cra%1 z x is also call$1 is a delightful mat]ial 7,plate ,,iii471 & may be _h 9 n>r[ wid?s1 v>y+ f #ab in*es to #bd in*es2 x is wov5 by ! ,russian peasantry 9 small h&looms & v>ies consid]ably 9 texture & quality--b 9 all cases x is a mo/ durable & suitable l95 = dome/ic purposes4 ,! ,scotti% ,blanket4--,ano!r pleas+ mat]ial = wool decoration is ! well-wa%$1 worn-out ,scotti% blanket2 ) ! small] pieces "o c make hassocks & cu%ions :i* look wond]fully well 9 /rong col\rs 9 any flat /it*2 ! l>g] s+le blanket c be us$ = cov]lets or hang+s--) appli$ decoration :]e ! mat]ial is too frail = g5]al h>d we>4 ,decorat$ ) edg+s ( wooll5 braids1 etc41 ^! w look almo/ new1 & c]ta9ly w give imm5se satisfaction to ! work]4 ,?reads are to be _h 9 great v>iety & 9 diff]5t makes1 _m ( :i* are excell5t = embroid]y4 ,cottons & flaxes 9 v>i\s sizes & ?icknesses 9 a l>ge range ( col\rs c be comb9$ mo/ successfully4 ,embroid]y ,wools4--,wools & y>ns1 p>ticul>ly ! types kn[n z f+]+1 9 ?ree1 f\r1 & five-ply1 are reliable bo? 9 col\r & quality4 ,x is always advisable to %r9k wools be=e us+ !m = embroid]y if !y are to be appli$ to articles :i* require frequ5t wa%+4 ,crewel & tape/ry wools1 to be _h 9 hanks1 8:ite hea!r0 m5d+ 9 balls1 are v conv5i5t = ne$le-weav+ & canvas "w1 & !y may be _h 9 beautiful col\rs4 ,silks4--,silks ( diff]5t makes1 embroid]y or knitt+1 filosel1 filo-floss & a s(t1 ?ick v>iety kn[n z 8,tyrian10 are all good = v>i\s purposes4 ,! latt] is p>ticul>ly useful = c\*+ l9es2 filo-floss--a bright1 glossy silk ) no twi/ 9 x--requires "s skill 9 ! manipulat+ ( x1 !re=e filosel or mall>d floss1 ea* ( :i* has a slight twi/ on x1 is bett] = ! less-skill$ work]4 ,c>pet *5illes 9 col\rs1 bo? cotton & wooll51 appli$ to co>se canvas or sack+1 are us$ = ! mak+ ( mats & rugs4 ,wooll5 & mohair1 cotton & bru% braids ( ! common skirt type1 c>pet & b9d+ braids1 cords & ,fr5* tapes1 col\r$ & wa%+ gimps1 all may be us$ ) advantage = embroid]y4 ,x is bett] to %r9k "s ( ! loosely wov5 skirt & c>pet braids be=e apply+ !m to ! mat]ial1 or !y are apt to puck] ! mat]ial aft] wa%+4 ,good ne$les %\ld always be us$1 ) well-drill$1 good-siz$ eyes4 ,c>e %\ld be tak5 to *oose !m s t !y may be exactly suit$ to ! ?read & to ! mat]ial2 ! eye %\ld be l>ge en\gh to hold ! ?read easily1 9 :i* case x w make a hole 9 ! f\ndation ( a suffici5t size to all[ ! ?read be+ pull$ ?r\gh )\t r\gh5+ x4 ,sci5tific %>ps are v pleasant to use--numb]s f\r1 five & six1 are suitable = cotton & flaxes1 crewel & *5ille1 & long-ey$ %>ps = g5]al embroid]y & ne$le-weav+4 ,= op5work backgr\nds su* z are %[n 9 ,plate ,,xi1 ,h1 ,i1 ,j1 ,k1 ,l1 :]e no ?reads are )drawn f ! mat]ial1 a special ne$le ) a l>ge ?ick /em & a small eye is us$2 x sep>ates ! ?reads ( ! mat]ial & makes !m easi] to ga!r into gr\ps by means ( ! tight5$ ?read4 ,9 work+ on loosely wov5 mat]ials--su* z canvases--& = weav+ patt]ns1 tape/ry1 *5ille1 or rug ne$les ) blunt po9ts are ! mo/ com=table to use2 if ^! are n to h&1 "w ) ! eye ( ! ne$le =emo/4 ,a well-fitt+ ?imble1 pref]ably vulcanite or silv] l9$ ) /eel1 is necess>y4 ,x %\ld be deeply pitt$ to cat* ! eye ( ! ne$le & well f9i%$1 s z n to r\gh5 ! ?read4 ,scissors ( diff]5t sizes are requir$3 a l>ge pair ) "o %>p & "o r\nd$ po9t--^! = ! cutt+ & prep>+ ( ! mat]ial2 a small %>ply po9t$ pair = ! snipp+ ( ?reads2 a special pair ) a little squ>e knob on ! "o blade & a %>p po9t on ! o!r = cutt+ out ?reads & sections betwe5 embroid]$ & op5work$ p>ts2 ^! are a safegu>d & prev5t ! snipp+ ( ! "w4 ,frames are n necess>y = ! simpl] types ( "w1 b = wide bord]s 9 ne$le-weav+1 p>ticul>ly = ! novice1 a frame w fix ! w>p ?reads by keep+ !m taut1 & prev5t puck]+ ( ! mat]ial--little tamb\r frames :i* consi/ ( a c\ple ( r+s1 ! "o fitt+ into ! o!r1 w s]ve ! purpose4 ,f9ally1 a small em]y cu%ion1 = poli%+ ! ne$le %\ld x get /icky or ru/y1 a piece ( beeswax is useful = flax ?reads1 a /iletto = pi]c+ eyelet holes1 a y>d measure1 a bodk91 & "s small p9s1 are all necess>y items1 :i* %\ld always be at h& :5 want$4 ,,! ,,second ,,po9t3 ,,! ,,col\r ,,s*eme4 ,col\r l5ds an inexpressible *>m to our daily life--x is 9 nature t x exi/s 9 greate/ beauty4 ,! wond]ful robe ( col\r :i* %e displays = u ?r\gh\t all seasons & 9 all c\ntries1 ?r\gh ! fl[]s & fruits1 trees & foliage1 sea & sky1 ! birds1 animal & insect life1 all "u diff]5t aspects & ev]-v>y+ circum/ances1 increase our admiration & pleasure4 ,we reflect & gratify our ne$ = col\r 9 our intimate surr\nd+s--dress1 hang+s1 furniture1 c>pets1 pott]y & pictures4 ,! embroid]ess :o has a f9e in/9ct = col\r w arrange a s*eme :]e9 beautiful comb9ations ( hues1 t9ts1 & %ades w m+le & produce a h>moni\s :ole4 ,x is = ^? less fav\r$ t ! foll[+ h9ts are giv54 ,a k ( ! pr9ciples ( col\r w s]ve z a guide1 :ile ! use ( a *romatic circle1 i4e41 a col\r circle1 w be invaluable to ! beg9n]4 ,?is conv5i5t arrangem5t :]e9 successive /rips ( all ! col\rs are plac$ conc5trically 9 _! due proportions--z 9 ! prismatic spectrum--w enable h] to /udy ! v>ieties1 ! relations & ! peculi>ities ( col\r & help h] to arrange & select ^? hues1 t9ts & %ades :i* w comb9e well toge!r2 x w aid h] to obta9 happy effects ) "s appreciation ( its h>monies & contra/s4 ,! ?ree prim>y col\rs1 gre51 r$ & blue--gre5 be+ n[ g5]ally accept$ z a prim>y in/ead ( yell[--(f] ! greate/ contra/ to ea* o!r4 ,!y are ! /ronge/ & mo/ p[]ful & ex]cise a great] influ5ce on ! m9d ?an any ( ! o!rs2 add to ^!1 orange1 yell[1 violet1 :ite & black--! sum ( ^! six col\rs con/itutes :ite1 & ! abs5ce ( all1 black--& we h ! eight f :i* all ! o!r col\rs & _! modifications c be made1 easily & sy/ematically4 ,r$ 7,complem5t>y ,col\r1 ,blui%-,gre574--,r$1 ! /ronge/ & mo/ p[]ful1 excites & /imulates ! eye4 ,x 0 ! fir/ col\r to be us$ = decorative purposes by primitive man1 & ! fir/ to receive a "n3 x is ! mo/ pr$om9ant ( ! w>m col\rs1 & on acc\nt ( its fre%1 bright1 *e]ful "*1 is mu* us$ by beg9n]s2 b ?is v ass]tive quality makes x r difficult to comb9e ) o!r hues1 !re=e x is well to use x 9 small quantities = g5]al purposes4 ,r$1 9 diff]5t hues1 has always be5 ! symbol ( p[] & di/9ction4 ,sc>let has be5 us$ = regal robes & /ate c]emonials1 z well z = milit>y purposes--x indicates blood%$ & w>1 fi]c5ess & c\rage4 ,r$ ( a rosy hue signifies div9e love4 ,x has be5 a fav\rite col\r ) ! poets f ! days ( ,hom] to our own "t4 ,! complem5t>y ( r$ is blui%-gre54 ,blue 7,complem5t>y ,col\r1 ,yell[74--,blue foll[$ r$--x is ( a quiet retir+ nature1 s(t & soo?+ 9 effect1 imp>t+ ! same quality to all ! hues 9 :i* x pr$om9ates4 ,x is "o ( ! cool col\rs & is symbolically emblematical ( heav51 piety1 & intellig5ce4 ,! complem5t>y ( blue is yell[4 ,gre5 7,complem5t>y ,col\r1 ,purple74--,gre51 ! mo/ preval5t col\r 9 nature1 & ! lea/ /imulat+1 has a rem>kably di/9ct & /rik+ effect on ! eye4 ,x is highly refre%+ z well z soo?+1 & is ! necess>y re/ful col\r1 ! opposite ( r$4 ,yet ! n]v\s p[] ( ! eye is soon] exhau/$ by /rong gre5s ?an by any o!r hue2 ?us1 a piece ( "w ) a prepond]ance ( gre5 is n s pleas+ to look at con/antly z ! piece :]e blue pr$om9ates4 ,symbolically1 gre5 is ! emblem ( b\ntifulness1 y\?1 happ9ess & prosp]ity4 ,! complem5t>y ( gre5 is purple 7violet-r$74 ,yell[ 7,complem5t>y ,col\r1 ,blue74--,yell[ approa*es :ite1 & is !re=e a brilliant & advanc+ col\r4 ,x possesses ! greate/ p[] ( reflect+ light2 is r difficult to comb9e unless modifi$4 ,bright yell[ has be5 us$ emblematically1 to express *>ity1 joy\sness1 pl5te\sness & old age--gre5i%-yell[ is ! symbol ( jeal\sy & envy4 ,its complem5t>y is blue4 ,orange 7,complem5t>y ,col\r1 ,gre5i%-blue74--,orange1 com+ betwe5 r$ & yell[1 p>takes ( ! nature ( bo?--x expresses w>m?1 fruitfulness & weal?4 ,! complem5t>y col\r is blue ) a t+e ( gre54 ,purple 7,complem5t>y ,col\r1 ,gre574--,purple is ! quiete/ ( ! ri* col\rs1 be+ compos$ ( r$ & blue4 ,x v>ies 9 tone accord+ to ! am\nt ( its con/itu5ts4 ,:5 blue is pr$om9ant x is symbolical ( m\rn+1 expressive ( sorr[1 sadness1 & is call$ violet2 :5 incl9+ to r$ x becomes w>m] & ri*]4 ,x expresses dignity1 pomp1 & regal p[]4 ,its complem5t>y col\r is gre54 ,^! six bright col\rs1 :5 us$ 9 conjunction ) black & :ite1 ) ea* o!r1 or ) _! complem5t>ies1 w /r5g!n1 int5sify & enri* ea* o!r )\t alt]+ _! true value--:5 su* vivid effects & %>p contra/s (f5d ! ta/e ( ! work]1 :5 !y appe> too crude1 too conspicu\s & too obtrusive--:i* !y are apt to d--!y may be h>monis$ q simply1 ei!r by modify+ ! complem5t>ies or by us+ a t9t or a %ade1 t is1 a light] or a d>k] tone ( ! same col\r4 ,! /r5g? & pot5cy ( ^! />tl+ contra/s are 9 ?is way temp]$2 !y become less gl>+1 less ass]tive1 pleasant] & simpl] to arrange1 & lose ! j>r+ effect !y might h if us$ 9 _! full brilliancy4 ,= simple h\sehold articles ) little decoration ^! bright col\rs may be us$ ) *>m+ effect4 ,x is well to rememb]1 9 *oos+ ! t9ts & %ades ( a col\r1 t ! f\ndation mat]ial w h a consid]able influ5ce on !m4 ,on a :ite gr\nd !y w appe> /rong] & bright]1 _! tone be+ height5$ by ! :ite or light backgr\nd1 :ile on a black gr\nd !y appe> m di/9ct & brilliant1 p>ticul>ly light ones1 ! contra/ be+ great]4 ,dull hues ga9 9 brightness :5 us$ ) black & lose accord+ly :5 comb9$ ) :ite4 ,juxtaposition ( ,col\r4--,col\rs1 !n1 :5 associat$1 influ5ce ea* o!r simultane\sly 9 v>i\s ways1 d>k5+ & light5+1 add+ to or detract+ f1 z ! case may be--?us1 by plac+ a light & d>k "o 9 contact1 = example1 black & :ite1 ! =m] looks black]1 int5s]1 :ile ! latt] looks m />tl+ly :ite on acc\nt ( its d>k neighb\r4 ,x is advisable1 also1 9 arrang+ ! col\r s*eme--aft] tak+ mat]ials & positions into consid]ation--to det]m9e at ! v outset :at ! lead+ features are to be1 & to h "o col\r 9 ! s*eme m pr$om9ant ?an ! o!rs1 ei!r 9 int5sity or 9 area4 ,!re %\ld be "s c5tral po9t or po9ts ( int]e/ :i* w attract ! eye to c]ta9 p>ts ( ! con/ruction4 ,a ,dom9ant ,col\r4--,a lib]al use ( a dom9ant col\r1 by convey+ a def9ite impression1 w give decision ( "* z well z beauty ( tone to ! "w1 :ile a vague1 unc]ta91 or too equally di/ribut$ arrangem5t w leave an unsatisfi$ & indef9ite impression on ! m9d4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,ii4 ,,"s ,,useful ,,/it*es 7,see p4 #bi7 ,!re are abundant sugge/ions to be _h f fields1 h$g][s1 fl[]s1 plumage ( birds1 etc41 = ! embroid]ess :o c adapt !m to h] purpose1 b a simpl] plan = ! beg9n] is to *oose h] col\r s*eme f a good picture1 a col\r$ illu/ration1 a piece ( *9tz1 cretonne or good brocade1 or1 :5 possible1 to /udy ! v>i\s pieces ( old embroid]y pres]v$ 9 our museums1 z a record ( ! "t :5 we c\ld compete ) o!r c\ntries1 :5 embroid]y 0 almo/ ! sole occupation ( wom5 ( rank1 z x 0 ( ! occupants ( ! conv5ts4 ,gre54--,if we 7 to use "o ( ! prim>ies z a dom9at+ col\r1 say gre51 a blui%-gre51 we might h z a backgr\nd a deep pomegranate r$1 ! design c\ld be work$ out 9 blui%-gre5s1 grey-gre5s1 s(t blues & purples1 ) t\*es ( pale *amois yell[ "h & !re2 all ! col\rs %\ld h a t+e ( blui%-gre51 ! comb9+ col\r4 ,blue4--,or we might *oose blue1 ! pleasante/1 simple/ & mo/ h>moni\s comb9+ col\r1 & select z a backgr\nd a w>m :ite or cream4 ,! decoration c\ld be c>ri$ out 9 v>i\s tones ( blue1 deep ri* blue1 turquoise1 deep & pale orange1 & a blue grey--mu* w\ld dep5d on ! tones us$ 9 comb9ation & ! mann] 9 :i* !y 7 employ$4 ,always avoid a spotty effect1 & d n contra/ col\rs too sudd5ly 9 an endeav\r to emphasise special po9ts4 ,r$4--,r$1 :5 us$ z ! pr$om9ant or comb9+ col\r1 looks be/ on a d>k blue or a cream backgr\nd4 ,) a d>k blue gr\nd1 :ite or cream1 bright gre5s & a t\* ( dull orange w "w 9 well ) ! r$s1 ! =m] comb9+ to make ! latt] less ass]tive4 ,) a :ite gr\nd & ! same col\rs1 ! "w becomes sugge/ive ( "s ( ! beautiful ,bokh>a embroid]ies 9 :i* r$s1 gre5s1 blues & yell[s--! latt] us$ sp>+ly--are comb9$ s gaily & in/9ctively4 ,,*apt] ,,iii ,,con/ruction ,,& ,,design 8,a cunn+ workman1 an embroid]] 9 blue & 9 purple & 9 f9e l9540 ,we %all n[ discuss ! decorative po9ts4 ,! con/ruction & ! build+ up ( ! patt]n may be tak5 toge!r4 ,a ,simple ,patt]n 9 ,ne$le-weav+4--,! simple/ design = an initial ef=t %\ld be "o :i* c\ld be execut$ 9 ne$le-weav+ su* z is illu/rat$ 9 ,plate ,i4 ,"h ! spaces = ! decoration are m>k$ (f on ! mat]ial1 !re be+ no necessity to put any design on to pap]--! weav+ may be done 9 any simple primitive patt]n1 or f "s ( ! m int]e/+ d>n+ patt]n sampl]s1 or x may foll[ "s idea or fanciful inv5tion ( ! work]4 ,x %\ld be m or less symmetrical 9 col\r & =m1 & provid$ t suffici5t ?\ght is tak5 9 arrang+ ! col\r s*eme & t ! te*nique is good1 ! result %\ld be bo? pleas+ & decorative4 7,see ,*apt] ,v4 on ne$le-weav+47 ,suppos+ ! mat]ial & ! col\r s*eme to h be5 already decid$1 & t a loosely wov5 texture--:i* dem&s a simple conv5tional patt]n ) bold /it*]y & bright col\r effects--has be5 *os5 7let x be a runn]1 table cov] or any article suitable = h\sehold use74 ,x w\ld be be/1 z simplicity mu/ be ! keynote1 to h a m>g9al or bord] design1 built up entirely on /raight l9es & geometrical =ms4 ,fir/ plan out ! mat]ial & arrange = ! decoration2 decide :e!r ! patt]n is to be plac$ on to a wide hem1 or inside a n>r[ "o1 or :e!r x is to be appli$ z wide b>s at ! ends & edges ( ! runn]4 ,! limit$ space at ! disposal ( ! design] w (t5 aid & sugge/ ! patt]n4 ,! decoration %\ld1 :5 possible1 /r5g!n ! con/ruction4 ,be c>eful at all times to place x :]e x w n int]f]e ) ! usefulness ( ! object4 ,a cu%ion1 = example1 ornam5t$ ) rais$ embroid]y or ) l>ge beads1 conveys ! idea ( discom=t r ?an ( com=t1 :i* is1 aft] all1 ! raison d'tre ( a cu%ion1 ! addition to a room1 by means ( col\r & decoration1 be+ a second>y po9t4 ,9 ! e>ly days1 :5 decoration 0 s freely appli$ by primitive peoples to seams1 hems1 %\ld]-/raps1 inde$ to all objects1 x 0 _! aim to increase ! usefulness ( ! article r ?an to decorate x4 ,a ,bord] ,patt]n4--,:5 ! above-m5tion$ po9ts h be5 decid$1 take squ>$ pap]1 rul]1 & p5cil1 & draw a few nicely spac$ l9es2 duplicate ! out] ones to give weight to ! edges4 ,all ^! l9es cross+ at ! corn]s w =m ! framework ( ! design4 ,regul>ity & ord] are z ess5tial 9 ne$lework z 9 mo/ crafts1 !re=e ! c>e & precision tak5 9 ! e>li] /ages w aid 9 ! work+ ( ! lat]4 ,! ,con/ruction4--,plan c>efully & arrange = ! decoration1 :i* %\ld nev] int]f]e ) ! usefulness ( ! f9i%$ "w4 ,! ,corn]s4--,! treatm5t ( ! corn]s pres5ts ! greate/ difficulty4 ,9 a frame !y are /ructurally ! weake/ p>ts2 = ?is reason ! ornam5tation is plac$ at ^! p>ts to b9d & /r5g!n1 z well z to decorate !m4 ,9 a piece ( ne$lework ) a simple bord] design !y are aga9 ! mo/ important4 ,"o expects to f9d unity1 enri*m5t & massiv5ess !re :]e ! l9es cross2 we add1 !re=e1 a few extra l9es or *equ]s to ! corn]s4 ,by ?is means we enl>ge !m1 & by s do+ app5d dignity & importance4 ,/ill great] emphasis & ! necess>y note ( int]e/ w be giv5 by ! col\r & ! /it*]y--! treatm5t ( :i* %\ld always be 9 ! =egr\nd ( ! m9d ( ! design]4 ,pr9ciple ( ,repetition4--,d n aim at great v>iety ( =m2 repetition is "o ( ! fir/ pr9ciples ( design4 ,! beg9n] w save h]self mu* worry & lab\r if %e keeps ?is pr9ciple be=e h]1 in/ead ( /riv+--z %e inv>iably does--aft] v>iety4 ,%e %\ld make h] =m--a squ>e1 an oblong1 or :atev] simple elem5t %e may h *os5--recur at regul> int]vals1 & all corn]s %\ld be alike4 ,masses connect$ by ,l9es4--,masses %\ld be jo9$ by connect+ l9es & ! spac+ s arrang$ z to give value to ! re/ ( ! "w4 ,value ( ,spaces4--,a =m or elem5t %\ld nev] be cramp$ into a space nor /ret*$ out unduly 9 ord] to fill "o2 x %\ld be plann$ & balanc$ to look z if x j belong$ to x4 ,a design is well balanc$ :5 ! elem5ts are s adju/$ t !y are nei!r too monoton\s by ov] repetition nor confus$ by too mu* v>iation4 ,diagonal ,l9es4--,x is saf] at ! e>li] /ages to avoid diagonal l9es1 or =ms made up ( su* l9es1 = sev]al reasons3 !y give a re/less effect :i* %\ld be avoid$ if possible1 !y pres5t to ! embroid]ess consid]able difficulty ( manipulation--com+1 z !y mu/1 on ! bias ( ! mat]ial1 :i* may easily be tight5$1 puck]$ or pull$ out ( %ape 9 ! work+ by ! inexp]i5c$ h&4 ,! ,game ( ,design4--,!re is really no limit to ! possible patt]ns :i* may be built up on /raight l9es & geometrical =ms4 ,! ne$lewoman has only to try ) a rul]1 p5cil & squ>$ pap] 9 ord] to discov] t %e may1 aft] "s little practice1 make mo/ elaborate designs ) int]e/+ results4 ,!re are1 ( c\rse1 c]ta9 fundam5tal pr9ciples :i* w help h]1 b !y are n _m1 & ) ! sugge/ions already giv5 %e %\ld be able to arrange _m simple designs suitable = h] own use4 ,x might be q a pleasant occupation = ! y\ng] memb]s ( a h\sehold1 on a w9t]'s ev5+1 to />t & play at design4 ,a "t limit1 p]haps a qu>t] ( an h\r = ! fir/ ef=t1 & a long] p]iod z ! patt]ns became m elaborate1 might be giv52 aft]w>ds all ! designs c\ld be ex*ang$1 comp>$1 criticis$1 & !n judg$ by an old] memb]4 ,9 ?is way a 8habit0 ( patt]n mak+ might be cultivat$4 ,_m ( ! designs %\ld prove valuable to ! craft work] z well z int]e/+ to ! y\ng/]s4 ,circles4--,f ! mak+ ( patt]ns ) /raight l9es we g on to circul> =ms1 ) radiat+ l9es4 ,?is op5s up a wide field to ! embroid]ess1 all[+ h] to ext5d & v>y h] simple designs indef9itely4 ,) ?is new elem5t1 ! circle1 %e c =mulate "s ( ! m def9ite floral %apes1 & arrang+ !m 9 an ord]ly mann]1 symmetrically1 c make a geometrical patt]n suitable to h] purpose2 %e c make use ( compasses1 or if ^! in/rum5ts are n at h&1 any circul> =m1 su* z a plate or a co91 w suit admirably4 ,%\ld ^! prove too small1 !re is always ! simple device ( ! fix$ p9 encircl$ by a ?read1 ) ! p5cil at ! opposite end1 :i*1 :5 ! p9 is held firmly 9 ! c5tre ( ! space--z ! ?read mu/ rema9 taut--w =m a circle1 ! size be+ fix$ by ! l5g? ( ! ?read4 ,circles at once sugge/ natural =ms & gr[?1 b to beg9 ) ! "y design] mu/ keep to ! geometrical side ( ,nature2 natural floral =ms w come lat]4 ,if %e exam9es c>efully a numb] ( ! fl[]s ( ! field or h$g][ %e w f9d t _m ( ^! beautiful =ms are built up on a geometrical basis--%e w note ! radiat+ l9es ( ! fl[]s1 ! sepals1 petals & /am5s1 ! v5ation ( leaves1 ! mann] 9 :i* ! mid-rib gives (f1 gradually1 ! beautiful curv+ l9es :i* fl[ into ! out] edges1 & ! wond]ful ord]l9ess ( ! little se$s cl++ to ! sides or c5tre ( ! se$ vessel1 & ?us %e w realise t all curv+ l9es are b segm5ts1 or p>ts ( circles ( v>i\s sizes4 ,to aid ! design] 9 h] fir/ ef=ts let h] turn to an elem5t>y text-book on botany--%e w probably f9d !re a numb] ( diagrams ( horizontal sections ( ! common] wild fl[]s4 ,^! give ! plan ( ea* fl[] typical ( ! family to :i* x belongs--all ! p>ts are arrang$ symmetrically 9 circles or :orls1 & %[ h[ ! fl[] is built up4 ,! embroid]ess %\ld f9d ^! sections full ( sugge/ions2 %e might take ! simpl] =ms to beg9 ) & elaborate !m1 add+ fre% details :]e necess>y = ! developm5t ( h] design4 ,by comp>+ ! sections ( "o fl[] ) ano!r--( ! wild rose ) ! poppy1 ! purple loose/rife ) ! =get-me-n1 ! primrose ) ! daffodil--%e w be able to obta9 v>iety ) simplicity & balance2 !n %e w connect & jo9 all ! masses ) /raight or curv$ l9es1 & ?us give complet5ess to h] design4 ,) increas$ k ( ! /ructure ( fl[]s ! embroid]ess w ga9 a ke5] s5se ( obs]vation :i* w be ( great value :5 %e /udies ! natural =ms4 ,sett+ =? once m on ! high adv5ture ( mak+ h] own design1 %e w br+ to h] aid ! pr9ciples already le>nt 9 ! mak+ ( /raight l9es :ile %e 0 build+ up h] patt]ns & designs4 ,,! ,,fif? ,,po9t3 ,,! ,,/it*]y4 ,we express ourselves & our ideas 9 embroid]y by means ( /it*es & col\r4 ,to h pleasure 9 ! craft1 ! ne$lewoman mu/ h a fairly accurate k ( ! te*nique4 ,/it*]y %\ld at all times be z simple z possible1 & c>efully adapt$ to ! mat]ial & ! design4 ,simpl] ,types ( ,/it*]y4--,! common] types1 ^? :i* by exp]i5ce & long use h be5 prov$ to be ! mo/ beautiful or ! mo/ practical1 are ! be/4 ,all ! m complicat$ =ms are m]ely modifications or comb9ations ( ^! simple types1 _m ( :i* are us$ 9 8pla90 ne$lework4 ,!re are1 9 fact1 few /it*es :i* a c>eful work] _c ma/] 9 a v %ort "t4 ,/it*]y n ! ,mo/ ,important4--,x is wise to rememb] t /it*]y is n ! mo/ important factor1 b only "o ( ! _m :i* g to ! mak+ ( good & arti/ic "w4 ,beauty1 9 ne$lework1 consi/s1 n 9 ! v>iation & elaboration ( /it*1 b 9 ! h>mony ( mat]ial & te*nique1 z well z ( =m & col\r4 ,unity ( ,/it*4--,:]e col\r$ ?reads are us$ x w (t5 be f\nd advantage\s to adopt "o /it* only4 ,_m ( ! *>m+ pieces ( embroid]y /or$ up 9 our museums give u an idea ( :at c be done 9 ?is way1 & ?\gh we lack1 p]haps1 bo? "t & pati5ce n[adays1 !re is no reason :y we %\ld n1 by cultivation ( our ta/es1 raise ! level ( ! art consid]ably above its pres5t /&>d & prove t we c /ill produce embroid]y--( ! mode/1 retic5t type--adapt$ to our own conditions ( life1 :i* w reveal bo? ref9em5t & arti/ic delight4 ,to execute a piece ( "w 9 "o /it* w\ld be excell5t practice = ! "y embroid]ess1 :]eby %e w\ld le>n to "k & use a /it* 9 all its v>i$ aspects4 ,%e ne$ n fe> monotony--! col\r$ ?reads w give suffici5t v>iety4 ,let h] take ! simple/ ( all /it*es to beg9 )--! tack+ or ba/+ /it*--& keep+ x & its _m v>ieties 9 h] m9d :5 plann+ out ! patt]n1 %e w f9d t %e has _m delightful ways ( execut+ x4 ,tack+ or ba/+ /it*1 work$ 9 r[s1 becomes simple d>n+1 a backgr\nd /it* ) :i* %e may make *>m+ patt]ns & fill+s1 ad libitum4 7,plates ,,ii4 & ,,xii47 ,work$ clos]1 x is a runn+ /it*1 :]e) braids may be tack$ 9 place 7,plate ,,iv471 frills ga!r$ up1 seams ( frocks connect$1 or smock+ prep>$4 ,f9ally1 :5 work$ ) ! same quantity ( ?read on ! "u & upp] surfaces ( ! mat]ial1 x atta9s a new dignity1 & becomes sat9 /it*--! /it* belov$ ( ! "y mod]n ne$lewoman1 :o is g5]ally inspir$ & /imulat$ by ! wond]ful skill & precision ( ! ,ea/]n ne$lework]s4 ,:ite ,backgr\nds4--,:ite backgr\nds1 :5 embroid]$ 9 :ite or ) only a little col\r1 may h mu* great] v>iation 9 /it*]y2 x is a relief to ! work] & an improvem5t to ! "w--inde$1 %\ld ! embroid]ess feel s dispos$1 %e has "h ! opportunity ( display+ h] k ( /it*]y to a consid]able ext5t1 always keep+1 ( c\rse1 )9 ! limits ( good ta/e4 ,%e %\ld endeav\r to suit ! /it*]y to ! "w1 to produce ! desir$ effect )\t too mu* lab\r--n t "w %\ld ev] be done 9 a ha/y or untidy mann]--b1 z said be=e1 %e %\ld adapt x to its purpose4 ,x is well to rememb] t l>ge pieces ( embroid]y1 g5]ally se5 f a di/ance1 dem& bold1 effective treatm5t2 detail is lo/1 s c be omitt$2 small] pieces1 se5 at clos] range1 %\ld be> inspection1 !re=e m delicate treatm5t may be appli$2 detail & f9] /it*es c be se5 to advantage4 7,see ,*apt] ,,xii4 = /it*es & ! me?od ( work+47 ,,! ,,six? ,,po9t3 ,,! ,,f9i%+s4 ,! aim ( ! embroid]ess is to make h] "w beautiful1 z well z suitable = h] purpose4 ,if %e has ! gift ( orig9ality %e w also make x di/9ctive1 possibly unconsci\sly1 by add+ "h & !re ^? little t\*es ( individuality :i* w m>k ! "w z *>act]i/ic ( h]self4 ,x is 9 ! f9i%+s t %e has mo/ scope = ^! da9ty devices2 = by _! means %e may add int]e/ & arti/ic detail to ! simple g>m5t or article ( dome/ic use & r5d] !m *>m+ ?+s to look at4 ,%e may atta9 ?is end1 n by obta9+ exp5sive fitm5ts1 ri* cords & silk tassels1 su* z are sometimes appli$1 mo/ unsuitably1 to embroid]$ cu%ions1 table squ>es1 & o!r objects t require frequ5t wa%+1 b by ! use ( braids 7,plate ,,vi471 & b9d+s 7,plate ,,viii471 & b&s 7,plate ,,iv471 h&-made cords & tassels1 l9+s1 edges1 fr+es1 beads & buttons1 raffia & plait$ /raw4 ,?us1 ! amateur w f9d x well wor? :ile giv+ "s ?\ght to ! mak+-up & f9i%+ (f ( h] embroid]y4 ,%e w soon realise1 too1 ! possibilities ( mak+ _m ( ^! +5i\s devices h]self :]e) to adorn h] "w1 & %e w feel well repaid 9 ! end :5 %e has contriv$ "s simple embelli%m5t at little extra co/4 ,h&-made cords & tassels 7,figs4 #ch;,a & #da71 fr+es & edg+s 7,figs4 #cd & #db71 may soon be made by skilful f+]s2 bright-col\r$ skirt braids & c>pet b9d+s & h&-made cords ( dy$ /r+ or wool give a decorative effect to hems & bord]s--a wide hem looks well ) a head+ ( bru% braid or a pip+ ( col\r$ galoon or n>r[ ,russian braid ov]sewn ) wool1 or a n>r[ b& ( ne$le-weav+4 ,mat]ial & edges may be jo9$1 *air backs & runn]s may be bright5$1 dress fitm5ts may be complet$ simply1 arti/ically & economically1 by means ( ^! braids1 connect$ ) da9ty jo9+ /it*es 7,figs4 #bf & #bi74 ,wools ( v>i\s qualities may be br\ght into s]vice to make fr+es & cords = cu%ions1 etc42 seams may be decorat$ & jo9$ ) ins]tion /it*es1 work$ by h& 7,fig4 #be71 or by ! cro*et ne$le 7,fig4 #fc72 fa/5+s may be secur$ by lat*ets ( wool1 ?read1 or silk1 or cord1 all ( :i* are easy ( manipulation & mu* pretti] ?an ma*9e-made articles4 ,by ref]r+ to ,plate ,,xiii41 x may be se5 t mu* may be a*iev$ by means ( braid 9 ! decoration ( a useful bag2 = description1 see page #aec4 ,*>m+ h&-made braids :i* may be us$ = _m purposes1 su* z wai/ cords1 lat*ets1 ties1 belts1 hat b&s 7,fig4 #dj71 may be made by means ( an embroid]y frame1 a lace cu%ion or a small h& loom4 ,= ! h&les & jo9+s ( bags1 see *apt] on ne$le-weav+4 ,beads & buttons are useful = ornam5tation--!y give ri*ness & weight :]ev] !y may be plac$2 & z an addition to fr+es 7,fig4 #ce71 tassels & ties1 !y are mo/ effective4 ,flat beads & buttons may be appli$ to embroid]y provid$ !y d n int]f]e ) ! use ( ! object2 ?is !y w\ld d if x 7 9 su* con/ant use z to require frequ5t wa%+4 ,small beads may (t5 take ! place ( ,fr5* knots1 giv+ mu* ! same appe>ance to a bord] or hem4 ,wa%+ galoons & gimps1 b9d+s & trimm+s1 may be effectively appli$ to da9ty little tea & lun*eon sets1 z well z to *ildr5's dresses & ov]alls1 !y may be fur!r embelli%$ ) n>r[ bord]s ( ne$le-weav+ work$ 9 col\r$ cottons or 9 flax ?reads4 ,= me?od ( mak+ fr+es1 tassels & braids1 etc41 see ,*apt] ,,xi4 ,,*apt] ,,iv ,,d>n+ ,,/it*es--,,backgr\nds ,,& ,,fill+s 8,! ne$le's "w pleas$ h]1 & %e grac$ x40 ,!re is an inf9ite v>iety ( patt]n to be made ) d>n+ /it*es1 & =tunately _m ne$lewom5 h suffici5t orig9ality to inv5t little v>iations to suit _! "w & mat]ial4 ,mo/ ( ! patt]ns on ,plate ,,ii4 are int5d$ to be work$ on a loosely wov5 f\ndation :]e ! ?reads are easily c\nt$1 su* z "s ( ! co>s] l95s1 s+le ?read canvases1 gre5h\se %ad+1 & tammy clo? = f9] "w4 ,^! d>n+ patt]ns are bett] work$ ) a blunt ne$le & a long ?read1 z x is r awkw>d1 at times1 to jo9 new ?reads 9 ! middle ( a patt]n1 especially an op5work "o 7see ,fig4 ,h74 ,simple fill+s l ^! may greatly enhance ! effect ( a piece ( embroid]y4 ,x w be se5 by ref]r+ to ,plate ,,ii4 t !y might be work$ s z to =m q a numb] ( patt]ns 9 /raight l9es 7,fig4 ,a71 9 waves or *evron patt]n 7,fig4 ,c71 9 clu/]s or />s 7,fig4 ,f71 9 l9es ( slant+ /it*es 7,fig4 ,d71 9 gr\ps ( squ>es or *equ]s 7,fig4 ,e71 9 v&ykes 7,fig4 ,g71 or 9 any ( ! op5work /it*es z ,figs4 ,j & ,l4 ,a ,simple ,op5work ,fill+4--,fig4 ,j is a pretty little patt]n suitable = a bord]1 = ! foot ( a *ild's frock1 = a jump]1 = table mats1 or = any article :]e a da9ty op5work appe>ance is want$4 ,x consi/s ( /raight l9es 9 a v]tical ov]ca/ /it*1 work$ 9 r[s1 f left to "r & f "r to left4 ,^! upright /it*es are 9 gr\ps ( two1 work$ ov] f\r ?reads ( ! mat]ial2 ea* r[ is sep>at$ f ! o!r by two /r&s ( ! mat]ial4 ,to ,"w ,fig4 ,j4--,un=tunately ! ,fig4 ,j does n %[ ?is fill+ to advantage4 ,:5 ! patt]n is work$ x w be se5 t ! int]v5+ /r&s1 9 conjunction ) ! op5 spaces1 =m t9y little crosses1 :i* add transp>5cy to ! "w4 ,a fill+ m t$i\s to "w1 b ) a m op5 appe>ance1 is got by ov]ca/+ e /it* on ! advanc+ r[1 & on ! return r[ work+ ! upp] "p ( ea* /it* into ! l[] space ( ! r[ above1 ?us leav+ no /r&s betwe5 ! /it*es or r[s4 ,v&yke ,bord]1 ,fig4 ,g4--,?is po9t$ patt]n1 work$ 9 a s+le r[1 makes a good f9i% = a bord] or hem4 ,to "w z ,fig4 ,g1 ea* gr\p requires sev5 /it*es to =m x1 ! %orte/ cov]+ f\r ?reads & ! longe/ twelve2 ! la/ /it* ( ea* gr\p =ms ! fir/ ( ! next "o4 ,pyramid ,fill+4--,! size ( ! gr\ps may v>y2 l>ge & small v&ykes may alt]nate4 ,ano!r fill+ some:at simil> may be made by tak+ ! /it*es horizontally in/ead ( v]tically2 9 ?is way gr\ps ( little pyramids are =m$4 ,ea* r[ %\ld be work$ ) alt]nat+ pyramids4 ,! simple/ me?od is to beg9 at ! top ) a %ort /it* ov] two ?reads1 "w five m horizontal /it*es1 increas+ 9 wid?1 "r & left1 by "o ?read1 s t ! six? /it* cov]s twelve ?reads ( ! mat]ial4 ,"w 9 oblique r[s4 ,/rips ( v&yke patt]n may be work$ ov] l>ge backgr\nds ) good effect4 ,make five horizontal /it*es ov] five /r&s ( canvas1 ea* /it* be+ bel[ ! o!r1 b "o ?read to ! "r ( ! la/2 !n "w f\r /it*es b5ea? ^!1 ea* /it* be+ ?is "t "o ?read to ! left ( ! "o above x2 cont9ue = l5g? requir$4 ,/>t ! second r[ on a level ) ! fir/ & six or sev5 /r&s to ! "r ( x4 ,fig4 ,b1 ,arr[-head ,fill+4--,?is is a useful /it* = cov]+ ! gr\nd quickly4 ,! ?ree /it*es are "h =m$ ov] six v]tical & t5 horizontal ?reads1 b1 ( c\rse1 ! numb] mu/ always dep5d ^u ! quality ( ! mat]ial4 ,! v]tical /it* is work$ fir/1 !n ! left slant+ /it*1 foll[$ by ! "r4 ,9 work+ ) loosely wov5 clo?1 x is necess>y to c>ry ! work+ ?read up beh9d ! mat]ial to ! top to />t ea* /it*4 ,?is uses r m ?read1 b ! /it*es lie bett] & ! "w is n puck]$4 ,fig4 ,f1 ,/> ,fill+4--,"h1 a numb] ( />s are work$ 9 successive r[s4 ,to make !m q regul>1 ea* "o %\ld be begun at ! same po9t4 ,9 ! ,fig4 ,f !y are work$ ov] sixte5 /r&s3 />t at ! top left corn] ) a d\ble /it*1 !n make ! horizontal /it* bel[1 & s on till complete4 ,by tight5+ ! work+ ?read a little a hole is =m$ at ea* corn]1 & 9 ! c5tre ( ea* />1 :i* makes ! patt]n an op5 "o1 provid$ ! work+ ?read is n too ?ick1 9 :i* case x w\ld fill up ! hole4 ,an equally good backgr\nd = a firm] mat]ial is to "w />s 9 two r[s1 diagonally1 "o up1 "o d[n1 leav+ always an equal numb] ( /r&s betwe5 ea* />4 ,9 ?is way ! mat]ial itself is =m$ into little diamond-%ap$ panels or loz5ges4 ,fig4 ,c1 ,wave ,patt]n4--,?is is "o ( ! m elaborate d>n+ patt]ns4 ,x makes a m solid fill+ & takes r long] to "w ?an "s ( ! o!rs4 ,_m pleas+ v>iations may be =m$ ) d>n+ /it*es1 :]e ! backgr\nd weft or w>p ?reads are utilis$ to =m ! patt]n4 ,damask ,d>n+4--,mat]ials may be repair$ by a l951 twill1 or damask d>n1 9 :i* case ! weft ?reads h to be put 9 fir/ by ! work] be=e ! patt]n c be wov54 ,"w ,fig4 ,c by lift+ two weft ?reads 9 desc5d+ r[s & pass+ ov] sev52 aft] work+ six r[s ! patt]n is *ang$ by ! two weft ?reads be+ lift$ 9 asc5d+ r[s1 ! la/ ( ! desc5d+ c\nt+ z ! fir/ ( ! asc5d+ r[4 ,9 a twill d>n1 ! patt]n ( weft ?reads desc5ds all ! "t 9 regul> diagonal l9es4 ,x is q wor? :ile copy+ "s ( ^! damask patt]ns f table nap]y1 & reproduc+ !m on a l>g] scale 9 bright col\rs--9 ord] to see :at effective designs !y are2 !y might well be utilis$ z fill+s = squ>es1 /ools1 or cu%ions4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,iii4 ,a ,,runn] ,,9 ,,cra% 7,see p4 #fc7 ,fig4 ,a1 ,s+le ,d>n+4--,a simple gr\nd+ patt]n1 su* z t ( ,fig4 ,a1 is useful2 x is quickly work$1 too1 a numb] ( ?reads be+ lift$ by ! ne$le at ea* /it*4 ,/>t at ! left corn]2 pass ov] f\r & lift two weft ?reads alt]nately = ! fir/ two r[s2 = ! next two r[s1 lift ! two weft ?reads 9 a l9e ) ! c5tre ( ! long /it*1 & s on4 ,basket ,patt]n4--,a basket or brick patt]n may be got by work+ f\r r[s ) ! lift$ ?reads 9 a l9e1 in/ead ( two1 z ,fig4 ,a1 be=e *ang+ ! /it*4 ,?is patt]n looks v well :5 ! *equ]s are work$ ) contra/+ col\rs4 ,"w f\r v]tical /it*es fir/1 9 l9es1 & 9 "o col\r1 ov] eight /r&s2 !n take ! contra/+ col\r & fill 9 all ! horizontal /it*es4 ,if "o col\r only is us$ ^! squ>es may be work$ 9 r[s1 ! v]tical & horizontal sections alt]nately4 ,fig4 ,h4--,?is type ( "w makes a r m op5 backgr\nd ?an "s ( ! o!rs2 x is v suitable = fill+ 9 small spaces1 = h&k]*ief sa*ets1 nightdress bags or bord]s = coll>s or h&k]*iefs4 ,x %\ld be work$ ) a f9e col\r$ or :ite lace ?read1 suffici5tly /rong to draw ! /r&s firmly toge!r1 yet f9e en\gh to leave ! spaces z cle> z possible4 ,z a fill+ x is easily & quickly work$1 z no ?reads are drawn out1 :i* is a recomm5dation4 ,! patt]n is work$ ov] six ?reads bo? ways--) ! exception ( ! fir/ /it*--& 9 two horizontal l9es4 ,x w be not$ t ! /it*es are n q v]tical1 be+ incl9$ t[>ds ea* o!r 9 twos4 ,a ,good ,fill+4--,to =m ! fir/ /it*es1 br+ ! ne$le out at ! top left corn]2 c\nt d[n ov] six /r&s & ?ree to ! "r2 ins]t ! ne$le & take a horizontal /it* "u six /r&s to ! "r4 ,! slant+ /it* is n[ =m$ by ins]t+ ! ne$le into ! hole on ! upp] l9e made by ! fir/ /it*1 & tak+ a horizontal /it* "u six /r&s to ! "r on t l9e--! upp] "o2 proce$ 9 ?is way to ! end ( ! space4 ,! next r[ is work$ f "r to left4 ,! ?read %\ld be tight5$ aft] ea* /it* to increase ! op5 space4 ,fig4 ,d1 ,diagonal ,fill+4--,?is gr\nd+ patt]n consi/s ( r[s ( slant+ /it*es1 work$ d[nw>ds ov] six /r&s ( mat]ial2 ! work+ ?read is tak5 across f corn] to corn] ( a squ>e1 ea* successive /it* be+ tak5 ?ree /r&s bel[ ! upp] "o2 a /r& ( ! mat]ial =ms a mid-rib betwe5 ! inv]t$ r[s4 ,if pref]r$1 ^! r[s might be sep>at$ by a l9e ( back/it*+1 9 :i* case two ?reads %\ld divide ea* r[ ( slant+ /it*es2 ?is gives a cle> l9e = ! back/it*+4 ,^! backgr\nds & d>n+ /it*es describ$ above are well suit$ = work+ on co>se mat]ials ) ?ick ?reads--z well z ) f9] ones2 al?\gh ! patt]ns = ! majority ( work]s are too labori\s = v f9e /uffs1 !y may be us$ = small spaces 9 l95 embroid]y su* z fill+s = fl[]s1 or initials4 ,*>m+ op5 gr\nd+s may be work$ )\t remov+ ! ?reads ( ! f\ndation mat]ial1 b by draw+ !m 9 clu/]s tightly toge!r1 by means ( /it*es4 ,comp>e ,plate ,,ii41 :]e ! fill+s1 ,figs4 ,h1 ,i1 ,b1 ,k1 ,l1 & ,m1 are work$ 9 ?is way4 ,^! patt]ns c be only %[n prop]ly on a loosely wov5 clo?1 su* z canvas1 l951 or cambric4 ,= f9e mat]ial a f9e lace ?read is requir$4 ,fig4 ,i4--,?is patt]n consi/s ( little squ>es & crosses4 ,9 ,fig4 ,i x has be5 work$ ) a ?ick ?read & ! /r&s h n be5 pull$ toge!r--9 ord] to %[ ! me?od ( work+2 b z already expla9$1 x requires a f9e ?read & tight5$ /r&s to %[ to advantage4 ,a ,fill+ 9 ,squ>es4--,beg9 ! patt]n ) v]tical /it*es1 9 horizontal r[s ov] six /r&s1 exactly z 9 ,fig4 #aj1 until ! requir$ space is fill$1 draw+ ea* gr\p ( ?reads tightly toge!r2 !n "w ! horizontal /it*es ov] five /r&s to complete ! squ>es1 tight5+ !m also1 b n to su* an ext5t z to puck] ! mat]ial4 ,! squ>es may be made small] & ! op5 spaces l>g] if ea* /it* is work$ ov] twice ) a v f9e ?read4 ,fig4 ,k1 ,squ>es & ,/>s4--,"h1 ea* squ>e takes up sixte5 /r&s ( l951 & ea* "o is complet$ be=e go+ on to ! next4 ,"w by ov]ca/+ all r\nd ! outside ( ! squ>e ov] f\r /r&s1 & make an inn] squ>e1 z ,fig4 ,i1 ) a cross /it* 9 ! c5tre1 tak+ c>e to f9i% ) ! ne$le 9 a position to beg9 ! next squ>e4 ,fig4 ,l1 ,squ>e ,/it* & ,rhodian ,embroid]y4--,?is patt]n is made up ( r[s ( squ>e /it*es sep>at$ by v]tical ones4 ,x is usually work$ )\t remov+ any ?reads f ! mat]ial1 al?\gh ) a v firm clo? x is r an advantage to d s :5 an ins]tion is want$2 9 ! latt] case ! v]tical ?reads connect+ ! r[s ( squ>e /it* are left out4 ,?is is a /it* "o frequ5tly f9ds 9 old l95 embroid]ies1 p>ticul>ly ( old ,g]man & ,italian "w--:]e x is us$ ei!r z a bord] or ins]tion1 or z a sep>at+ l9e betwe5 squ>$ or diamond-%ap$ =ms2 !re is a simil>ity 9 ! work+ ( x to ! /it*es us$ by ! p ( ! ,isl& ( ,rhodes--latt]ly kn[n z ,rhodes embroid]y or pun* "w--! only diff]5ce be+ t x cov]s ! entire backgr\nd 9 ,rhodian embroid]ies & ! ?reads are m closely drawn toge!r4 ,9 ^! ,rhodian embroid]ies ! rose is frequ5tly to be met )4 ,x is ! symbol :i* inv>iably accompanies ! head ( ,helios on its co9s1 & to :i* ! classic isle owes its "n4 ,squ>e /it* c be work$ 9 /raight or 9 slant+ l9es1 see ,fig4 ,m--! =m] is ! simpl]1 z ea* squ>e is complet$ 9 "o r[1 :ile ! latt] requires two r[s to complete x4 ,to "w on horizontal l9es1 ,fig4 ,l1 beg9 at ! "r-h& side & make an upright /it* ov] six ?reads2 take a slant+ /it* at ! back & br+ ! ne$le out six ?reads to ! left at ! base4 ,take a horizontal /it* to ! "r1 ins]t+ ! ne$le at ! foot ( ! v]tical /it*2 take an upw>ds slant+ /it* at ! back to ! left & ins]t ! ne$le into ! top ( ! fir/ /it*4 ,?is =ms ?ree sides ( ! squ>e4 ,n[ br+ ! ne$le out 9 position to />t z = ! fir/ upright /it*4 ,if prop]ly work$1 ! rev]se side =ms a s]ies ( crosses4 ,fig4 ,l has a r[ ( ^! squ>e /it*es ) an alt]nate r[ ( upright /it*es work$ f left to "r betwe5 !m4 ,?is is a pretty & unusual comb9ation ( /it*es1 & x makes a *>m+ bord] work$ 9 col\r on a loosely textur$ mat]ial = a coll> or o!r small article4 ,ano!r v>iation ( ! same type1 & /ill m op51 is to h d\ble r[s ( squ>e /it* betwe5 ea* r[ ( v]tical /it*es1 ! l[] r[ ( little squ>es com+ betwe5 ^? ( ! upp] r[4 ,fig4 ,i1 ,squ>e ,/it* 9 ,slant+ ,l9es4--,to "w ?is /it* 9 slant+ l9es is r a sl[] process4 ,! fir/ r[ =ms a s]ies ( zig-zags or little /eps on ! "r side1 :ile on ! wrong side x =ms two s+le l9es on ! bias ( ! mat]ial4 ,beg9 at ! "r-h& side ( ! "w2 take a horizontal /it* f left to "r ov] six ?reads2 a slant+ /it* at ! back to ! left br+s ! ne$le out six ?reads bel[ ! />t+-po9t4 ,take an upright /it* & put ! ne$le into ?is po9t--two sides ( ! squ>e are n[ =m$4 ,take a slant+ /it* at ! back & br+ ! ne$le out six ?reads to ! left ( ! base ( ! upright /it* & cont9ue = ! di/ance requir$4 ,?is slant+ l9e ( squ>e /it* is easily acquir$ if ! work] rememb]s ! appe>ance ( ! /it*1 on ! 8wrong0 side z well z ! "r4 ,a ,table ,sc>f 9 ,russian ,cra%4--,?is design is ano!r ( ! direct type 9 :i* ! ne$le-wov5 bord] =ms ! pr9cipal subject4 ,! mat]ial is v pleasant to "w--x is ( a s(t greyi%-cream col\r1 :i* comb9es well ) ! wools & braids1 & ! texture is suffici5tly op5 to all[ ( ! ?reads be+ easily remov$1 :i* is a recomm5dation :5 prep>+ = ! ne$le-weav+ & ! fr+e4 ,! /it*]y is all done 9 wools1 & ! col\rs are d>k heliotrope ) two light] t9ts1 blues 7two tones71 gre5s1 a d>k & light em]ald1 & deep orange4 ,! broad braid is ( s(t blue1 ! n>r[ ( /raw col\r4 ,! design =ms a deep bord] divid$ into panels by b&s ( braid2 ! b&s are tack$ into place by %ort button-hole /it*es 9 ! d>k] %ade ( em]ald gre51 betwe5 :i* are t9y little loop /it*es 7,fig4 #c71 9 orange4 ,! c5tre panel has a wide b& ( ne$le-weav+1 ab\t ?ree in*es deep1 :i* is divid$ up into five gr\ps2 ! gr\ps are work$ f ! outside1 inw>ds1 z 9 ,plate ,i41 & ! v>i\s col\rs are introduc$ into !m4 ,! mo/ prom95t col\r 9 ! s*eme is blue1 acc5tuat$ 9 ?is case by ! blue braid1 ! blue edg+1 & ! second & f\r? gr\ps ( weav+1 :i* are work$ 9 two %ades ( blue4 ,! fir/ & fif? gr\ps are wov5 9 heliotrope ) orange 9 ! c5tre2 ! middle gr\p has light heliotrope on ! out] p>ts & pale gre5 on ! inn]4 ,?is same gre5 is work$ 9 ori5tal /it* on ea* side ( ! c5tral #c-;in* b>1 :ile ! /it*]y betwe5 ! r[s ( wide blue braid is 9 ! lighte/ t9t ( heliotrope1 tack$ d[n ) t9y /it*es ( ! d>ke/ %ade4 ,! two side panels are work$ 9 sat9 /it* 9 two tones ( heliotrope1 ea* r[ ( *equ]s be+ connect$ by small *equ]s 9 light gre5--!y also are work$ 9 sat9 /it*4 ,! l9es ( /raw-col\r$ braid are sewn d[n ) ,fr5* knots 9 heliotrope 7,figs4 #bb;,a1 #bb;,b74 ,! patt]n ( ! /it*+ on ! b&s ( braid :i* bord] ! design is work$ 9 ! same way z loop or ori5tal /it*2 ! ne$le is br\ght out on "o side ( ! braid & ins]t$ on ! o!r side1 j opposite1 !n br\ght out aga9 9 ! c5tre to ! "r1 :]e ! wool is tack$ d[n ) a t9y /it*2 ! ne$le is aga9 br\ght out on ! edge ( ! braid1 ab\t half an in* fur!r on1 ins]t$ on ! l[] edge & br\ght out 9 ! middle aga9 9 ord] to tack ! wool d[n4 ,^! two /it*es rev]s$ give ! diamond %ape ( ! ins]tion2 ?ree sat9 /it*es 9 orange give a bright little note to ! edg+4 ,^! loop$ or petal /it*es work$ 9 diff]5t ways c be us$ to =m _m pretty head+s4 ,! n>r[ edg+ on ! selv$ges betwe5 ! l9es ( blue braid is *>m+2 x consi/s ( two loops ( heliotrope 9 two %ades--! "o work$ )9 ! o!r--) a clos$ loop$ /it* 9 orange betwe5 ea* pair4 ,:5 all ! embroid]y is f9i%$1 ! weft ?reads are )drawn f ! rema9+ ends ( ! mat]ial1 :i* h be5 left = ! fr+e4 ,sometimes a fr+e ( a clos] texture or ( a diff]5t type is work$1 or ! mat]ial may be too %ort to all[ ( "o--9 all ( :i* cases a /rip ( clo? c\ld be ins]t$ "u ! braid & sewn d[n ) ! patt]n1 !n fr+$4 ,x is g5]ally advisable :5 work+ ) n>r[ braids to take ! ends ?r\gh ! mat]ial :]e !y c be /it*$ firmly 9 place2 wid] ones are (t5 ti$ at ! ends to prev5t spread+1 !n turn$ 9 & /it*$4 ,,*apt] ,v ,,ne$le-,,weav+--,,russian ,,op5-,,"w--,,l9k$ ,,/it*es 8,a web made fair 9 ! weav+40 ,ne$le-weav+ is a =m ( decoration common to all c\ntries2 x 0 practis$ by primitive peoples & mu/ h prec$$ embroid]y4 ,x 0 a means ( add+ ri*ness & col\r mu* 9 fav\r ) ! e>ly ,egyptians1 :o decorat$ _! g>m5ts ) fr+es & b&s ( ne$le-weav+4 ,mummy clo?s treat$ 9 ?is way are to be se5 9 ! ,briti% ,museum2 also specim5s ( e>ly ,coptic "w1 pres]v$ 9 ! ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum1 %[ t !y 7 9 ! habit ( weav+ little panels & bord]s ) ! ne$le1 ) :i* to decorate _! g>m5ts4 ,?is desire to enri* & decorate ) ! ne$le1 by means ( col\r & patt]n1 ! m important p>ts ( _! app>el foll[$ on ! discov]y ( h[ to weave clo?1 & s we f9d t ^! e>ly work]s frequ5tly left out ! weft ?reads & wove 9 beautiful patt]ns1 ri* 9 col\r1 ) ! ne$le into ^! spaces4 ,lat]1 little panels1 b>s & m$allions 7 work$ 9 ?is way & ins]t$ into _! g>m5ts4 ,?is ne$le-weav+1 :i* is practically tape/ry ) ! ne$le1 seems to h rea*$ a great degree ( p]fection 9 ! fif? c5tury4 ,!re is v little to di/+ui% ne$le-weav+ f tape/ry1 except t ! latt] is done ) ! %uttle in/ead ( ! ne$le4 ,?is weav+ ( patt]ns directly on to ! mat]ial is fasc9at+ "w4 ,x is s effective1 s ri* 9 result1 & s *>m+ly appropriate to ! mat]ial2 !re mu/ always be a c]ta9 /iffness & rigidity 9 ! patt]n1 caus$ by ! upright w>p ?reads1 :i* dem& simplicity ( treatm5t4 ,weav+1 :e!r done ) ne$le1 bobb9s or %uttle1 is j a me?od ( int]weav+ ! w>p ?reads ) ! weft2 ^! weft-?reads may consi/ ( wools1 silks1 cottons1 or--decoratively1 ( raffia1 or ev5 gold & silv] ?reads4 ,?is type ( "w may be appli$ to all k9ds ( useful h\sehold articles--table l951 b$ l951 cu%ions1 bags1 *air backs1 foot/ools1 book cov]s2 also b&s & ins]tions = g>m5ts4 ,!re is room = su* simple patt]n1 comb9$ 9 "s cases ) o!r /it*]y1 on ^! & _m o!r articles1 :]e a m>g9al decoration is appropriate4 ,description ( ,frontispiece4--,plate ,i4 %[s a table squ>e work$ on 8,titian0 canvas ( a s(t br[n t9t4 ,! orig9al 0 #cf in*es by #ah in*es4 ,! edges ( ! canvas %\ld be turn$ up & ! spaces arrang$ = ! ne$le-weav+ & col\r$ b&s be=e ! weft ?reads are remov$4 ,all[ ab\t #c in*es = ! op5-"w4 ,cut ! weft ?reads & pull !m out4 ,fig4 #ca %[s me?od ( work+2 beg9 at ! "r-h& corn] & weave ! patt]n ov] six gr\ps1 ?ree /r&s 9 ea* gr\p--^! are work$ 9 gold & yell[2 repeat ! same patt]n on ! opposite side--x simplifies ! "w & saves "t & tr\ble if ! weav+ is done f ! ends1 work+ inw>ds2 ?us two simil> patt]ns are wov51 "o aft] ! o!r4 ,if ! b& ( weav+ is c>efully exam9$1 x w be se5 t ! gold-col\r$ ?reads =m a def9ite patt]n on ! backgr\nd2 if ^! are wov5 9 fir/1 x w aid ! work] & act z a guide = ! int]lac+ ( ! o!r col\rs4 ,! next gr\p1 9 lemon & purple1 is work$ on n9e gr\ps ( ?reads3 ?r\gh\t all ^! patt]ns a gr\p consi/s ( ?ree /r&s4 ,! purple l9es are sewn 9 ) a back /it*4 ,! ?ird gr\p is =m$ ( a l>ge cross 9 orange surr\nd$ ) gold-col\r$ squ>es1 :i* 9 turn are complet$ ) blue squ>es at ! corn]s4 ,! f\r?1 or c5tral gr\p1 has two n>r[ b>s on ea* side1 work$ 9 s(t gre51 blue1 purple & gold4 ,! inn] cross ( lemon wool ) purple & gold c be easily foll[$ f ! plate4 ,! broad b& ( ne$le-weav+ is edg$ by r[s ( v>iegat$ *a9 /it* 9 br[n & cream 7= ! work+ ( :i*1 see ,fig4 #a1 p4 #df71 & foll[$ by r[s ( button-hole 9 orange 7,fig4 #aa74 ,! wide braid-l l9e 9 ori5tal /it*1 along ! top1 is work$ v closely2 along ! sides ! same /it* is se5 ) wid] spac+4 ,?is /it* is ( ! h]r+-bone type--! ne$le is ins]t$ v]tically1 in/ead ( horizontally1 z 9 ! case ( ! common] & bett]-kn[n /it*4 ,x is effective & economical1 z ! bulk ( ! ?read is on ! surface4 ,! tassels are ( s(t br[n & bright blue wool hung on to button-hol$ loops1 = ! mak+ ( :i*1 see ,fig4 #eg1 ,*apt] ,,xiii42 & = ! tassels1 ,fig4 #da4 ,! ribbon bord] is work$ 9 gold & purple silk4 ,a sidebo>d runn] work$ simil>ly1 b ) two wide b&s ( ne$le-weav+ at ea* end & r wid] l9es ( /it*]y at ! sides1 0 made to mat* ?is table runn]2 ! light col\rs ( ! bord] gave a v gay t\* to an o!rwise sombre room4 ,plate ,,ii41 ,fig4 ,n1 illu/rates ano!r type ( op5-"w :i* is practis$ by ! peasantry ( ,russia4 ,x is int]e/+ & q diff]5t 9 appe>ance f "s ( ! o!r peasant "w4 ,"o di/+ui%+ feature is t two r[s are work$ 9 conjunction1 & ano!r is ! numb] ( r[s & ! mann] 9 :i* !y are work$4 ,?is =m ( op5-"w des]ves to be bett] kn[n 9 ?is c\ntry4 ,! patt]n is =m$ by means ( blocks ( /it*es1 :i* are n work$ 9 ! ord9>y d>n+ or weav+ /it* b by ! ov]ca/+ ( laid ?reads2 inde$1 ) ! exception ( ! fir/ & f9al r[s--:i* are hem/it*$--! entire "w consi/s ( ! ov]ca/+ ( ?reads2 b>s1 /r&s or gr\ps1 all are work$ f "r to left4 ,! ,russian peasantry "w mo/ elaborate bord]s on h&some l95 ( an op5 texture2 ^! bord]s v>y 9 wid? f #b in*es to #ah in*es1 & are appli$ to all k9ds ( articles = h\sehold & p]sonal use4 ,?is =m ( op5-"w is m durable ?an ! type usually done 9 ?is c\ntry2 inde$1 ! mat]ial is /r5g!n$ by ! /it*]y r ?an weak5$1 z is frequ5tly ! case ) ! usual me?od ( treat+ drawn-?read "w4 ,to "w a bord] simil> to ,plate ,,ii41 ,fig4 ,n1 beg9 by remov+ two ?reads2 "w a r[ ( s+le hem/it* into ! space1 ov] f\r ?reads1 divid+ ! mat]ial into clu/]s ) six w>p ?reads 9 ea*--! hem/it*+ is done f left to "r 9 ! usual way4 ,to prep>e = ! next two r[s1 leave a n>r[ b> ( five weft ?reads & draw out six ?reads--! numb] ( ?reads to be remov$ w1 ( c\rse1 v>y accord+ to ! quality ( ! mat]ial1 b ! horizontal int]v5+ b>s are always n>r[] ?an ! op5 spaces4 ,beg9 at ! "r h&2 make ! numb] ( upright /it*es necess>y to c>ry ! ?read to ! left ( ! gr\p1 :i* is to be work$ into a solid block2 lay ! ?read across ?is gr\p1 & return+1 br+ ! ne$le out betwe5 ! fir/ & second clu/] ( ?reads1 on ! "r ( ! clu/]2 n[ put ! ne$le ov] ! laid ?read & br+ x out "u ! laid ?read at ! next gr\p4 ,put ! ne$le ov] ! ?read aga9 & br+ x out at ! left ( ! entire gr\p2 9 o!r words1 ov]ca/ ! laid ?read f "r to left ( ! gr\p--always pass ! ne$le beh9d a clu/] ( ?reads betwe5 ea* ov]ca/+ /it*2 cont9ue to lay ! ?read & ov]ca/ back until ! space is fill$1 !n "w "o /raight /it* ov] ! upp] horizontal b>2 ov]ca/ "o v]tical clu/]2 slip ! c>ry+ ?read up beh9d2 "w ano!r upright /it*2 ov]ca/ ! second v]tical clu/]2 aga9 slip ! ?read up ?r\gh ! back ( ! /it*]y2 !n "w ! upright /it*es & repeat ! lay+ & ov]ca/+ to make ! solid patt]n aga94 ,once ! me?od is acquir$1 x w be a simple matt] to arrange ^! solid masses 9 su* a way z to =m a patt]n4 ,x is bett] to prep>e & cut ! ?reads ( ea* r[ j be=e work+ x2 !re is1 9 ?is way1 less risk ( mak+ mi/akes by cutt+ ! wrong ?reads4 ,ano!r reason = prep>+ ! r[s /ep by /ep is t ! mat]ial is easi] to hold be=e ! removal ( ! weft ?reads ?an x w\ld be aft] !y h be5 )drawn4 ,,l9k$ ,,/it*es4 ,*a9 & ,tamb\r ,"w 7,fig4 #a74--;,*a9 /it*1 :i* is said to h come to u f ,*9a1 has be5 = a long "t little us$ 9 ?is c\ntry4 ,tamb\r /it*--9 high fav\r & greatly us$ by our gr&mo!rs--0 produc$ lat] by ! ma*9e 9 su* quantities & 9 s me*anical & in>ti/ic a mann] t x fell into disfav\r1 & un=tunately *a9 /it*--:i* is practically ! same1 except t x is work$ ) ! ne$le in/ead ( ) a cro*et hook--fell ) x4 ,nev]!less1 x is a /it* :i* is mo/ useful & *>m+ 9 its ev5 & some:at monoton\s regul>ity1 especially :]e a great v>iety ( col\r is us$ & a broad effect is want$4 ,a p>ticul>ly adaptable /it*1 x l5ds itself1 on acc\nt ( its l9k$ nature1 to ! foll[+ ( curves & spirals1 outl9es & ! fill+ ( circul> & oval =ms4 ,x c be work$ s+ly--z a p[d]+--or 9 a zig-zag patt]n--) two col\rs at once--:i* produces an int]e/+ result 7,plate ,i471 or ) a twi/4 ,work$ op5ly ) ! ne$le ins]t$ fir/ to ! left !n to ! "r to give a broad] l9e1 x is kn[n z ladd] /it*1 :ile twi/$ *a91 work$ closely1 is kn[n z rope /it*4 ,l9k$ *a9 & cable *a9 7,fig4 #h7 are m elaborate =ms ( ! same /it*4 ,mu* ( ! beautiful ,p]sian quilt+ done on l95s is work$ 9 *a9 /it* on ! wrong side1 :i* gives ! 8quilt+10 or back /it*1 on ! "r side4 ,! ,work+ ( ,tamb\r ,/it*4--,tamb\r /it*1 ?\gh ( little use = small "w1 might /ill be employ$ v effectively z a quilt+ /it*1 & = l>ge pieces ( "w1 su* z table cov]s or hang+s2 x is work$ on a frame1 & "o c quickly acquire facility ) ! hook & accuracy 9 ! work+ ( x4 ,me?od3--,! mat]ial is put 9 a frame2 ! ?read is kept und]nea?1 :]e ! left h& guides x2 a %>p-po9t$ hook is kept 9 ! "r h& & pass$ ?r\gh ! mat]ial f ! surface2 x cat*es ! ?read f ! "u side & br+ x up 9 a loop2 ! hook is ins]t$ aga9 & ! ?read is aga9 br\ght up 9 a loop ?r\gh ! prec$+ loop4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #a4 ,to ,"w ,*a9 ,/it* 7,fig4 #a74--,to "w *a9 /it*1 br+ ! ?read out at ! beg9n+ ( ! l9e2 hold x d[n ) ! left ?umb2 place ! ne$le into ! hole1 :i* ! ?read already occupies1 & take up a small piece ( ! mat]ial--?is w v>y f "o-sixte5? to "o-eigh? ( an in* accord+ to ! ?read & mat]ial2 draw ! ?read ?r\gh1 & ! fir/ l9k ( ! *a9 is complete2 ins]t ! ne$le aga9 at ! spot :]e ! ?read comes out & proce$ z be=e4 ,a cord-l effect may be got by ov]ca/+ ea* l9k ( ! *a9 ) ano!r col\r3 ! eye ( ! ne$le %\ld be us$1 z ! ov]ca/ /it* is tak5 ov] ! l9ks only4 ,*a9 ,/it* 9 ,two ,col\rs4--,a v>iation to a bord] may be giv5 by work+ alt]nate l9ks ( diff]5t col\r4 ,me?od3--,take two ?reads 9 ! ne$le1 a black & a :ite1 or a blue & a gre51 or any two contra/+ col\rs2 br+ ! ne$le out at ! />t+ po9t2 hold ! black ?read1 :i* %\ld be to ! left1 "u ! ?umb--! :ite ?read is plac$ aside out ( ! way2 ins]t ! ne$le1 z = *a9 /it*1 beside ! held ?read & draw ?r\gh--a *a9 /it* ( black has be5 =m$4 ,next1 hold ! :ite ?read "u ! ?umb1 & =m ! :ite l9k1 ! black ?read be+ plac$ aside to ! "r ?is "t4 ,"w 9 ?is way alt]nate black & :ite l9ks2 a little manipulation is sometimes requir$ to keep ! ?read n 9 use out ( sight 7,plate ,i474 ,split ,/it*4--,split /it* may be us$ = v f9e "w1 or = fix+ d[n laid /it*es1 = :i* x is p>ticul>ly suitable2 x has ! appe>ance ( a f9e *a9 /it*1 b is 9 reality a s+le /it* :i* is split1 9 ! process ( work+1 by ! ne$le4 ,up to ! f\rte5? c5tury1 x 0 g5]ally us$ 9 figure embroid]y to express =m1 folds ( drap]y1 & features1 & 0 a /it* well adapt$ = ! purpose2 b z figure embroid]y is q beyond ! scope ( ?is book & ! simpl] pieces ( embroid]y x advocates1 x is suffici5t p]haps to expla9 ! me?od ( work+1 r ?an g into ! p>ticul>s ( its hi/ory4 ,x is work$ f left to "r4 ,me?od3--,br+ ! ?read to ! surface at ! left2 take a /it*1 "o-sixte5? ( an in*1 to ! "r ) ! po9t ( ! ne$le t[>ds ! left2 pi]ce ! ?read :i* cov]s ?is space & draw ! ne$le ?r\gh x1 splitt+ ! ?read & =m+ a l9k-l /it*4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #b4 ,coral ,/it* 7,fig4 #b74--;,coral /it* is a good decorative l9e /it*1 easily & quickly execut$4 ,x is kn[n "u sev]al names1 su* z snail-trail & knott$ /it*1 etc4 ,x is compos$ ( s+le knots1 work$ ) ! connect+ ?read on ! surface2 sometimes ! knots are work$ s closely toge!r z to h ! appe>ance ( beads1 or !y may be work$ half an in* ap>t1 & 9 r[s1 :5 !y make good l9es = fill+ l>ge spaces or bord]s4 ,me?od ( work+3--,br+ ! ?read ?r\gh to ! front2 place ! left ?umb on x1 beyond ! po9t :]e ! knot is to be made2 take a /it* "u ! held ?read & at "r angles to x2 draw ! ne$le ?r\gh1 /ill hold+ ! ?read "u ! ?umb1 & tight54 ,?is /it* is suitable = work+ ) wools on f9e mat]ial4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,iv4 ,a ,,porti,,re4 ,petal or ,loop ,/it* 7,fig4 #c74--;,ano!r useful /it* is %[n 9 ,fig4 #c4 ,x is invaluable = ! mak+ ( small fl[]s & bord]s1 = pick+ out edges1 & = emphasis+ l9es 7,plates ,,iv41 ,,xiii474 ,! work+ ( a small fl[] is %[n 9 ,figs4 #c & #c;,a4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #c4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #c;,a4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #c;,b4 ,me?od3--,br+ ! ne$le out 9 ! c5tre ( ! space2 ins]t x aga9 at ! same po9t2 br+ x out ne> ! tip ( ! petal1 z 9 ,fig4 #c;,a1 & tack x d[n ) a small /it*4 ,l>g] fl[]s c be q arti/ically work$ by beg9n+ ) a small /it* at ! foot ( ! petal1 & increas+ by successive /it*es until ! outl9e is rea*$ 7,fig4 #c;,b74 ,! out] /it* c be work$ 9 a diff]5t col\r or tone ) pleas+ effect4 ,"o ( ! l>ge conv5tional fl[]s 9 ,plate ,,xi4 has an outl9e ( ^! /it*es1 :ile ano!r has ! inn] circle work$ 9 ! same way 7,plate ,,iv474 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #d4 ,fea!r ,/it* 7,fig4 #d74--,"o ( ! fea!r /it*es1 all ( :i* are compos$ ( button-hole /it*es1 is illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #d4 ,x is work$ v]tically1 a /it* be+ made alt]nately f left to "r4 ,! wid? ( ! /it* may v>y1 b x mu/ be regul>ly work$ & uni=m 9 size1 to look well1 :5 x pres5ts a braid-l appe>ance :i* is mo/ ornam5tal = und]l95 & o!r purposes4 ,! diagram expla9s ! me?od ( work+4 ,fi%-bone ,/it* 7,fig4 #e74--;,fi%-bone /it* is ano!r ( ! fea!r or button-hole type4 ,!re are s _m v>iations ( ^? /it*es1 :i* are well kn[n to mo/ ne$le-wom5--hav+ be5 us$ = ! decoration ( und]l95 = ! la/ g5]ation or two--t only a few ne$ be m5tion$ "h4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #e4 ,q a pretty & uncommon v>iety 7,fig4 #e7 is useful = ! fill+ ( leaf =ms1 z well z = bord]s4 ,! /it* appe>s to be made up ( two long out] & two %ort inn] ones1 b z w be se5 by look+ c>efully at ! diagram1 !re are only two movem5ts4 ,x is work$ j z 9 ,fig4 #d1 f left to "r4 ,x is v easily work$ on loosely-wov5 mat]ial1 b :]e ! texture is close1 x is simpl] & saf] to m>k f\r l9es on ! mat]ial = guidance1 two out] & two inn]1 ! latt] clos] toge!r4 ,,to ,,"w ,,fig4 #e4--;,beg9 to "w f "o ( ! c5tral l9es--! "o to ! "r2 ins]t ! ne$le on ! left out] l9e & br+ x out on ! left inn] l9e1 keep+ ! work+ ?read "u ! ne$le2 cont9ue 9 ?is way1 work+ v]tically & keep+ ! /it*es regul> & equally spac$4 ,! outside /it*es may be made /ill long] & clos] ?an ^? 9 ! diagram ) good effects1 p>ticul>ly :5 us$ = a fill+ = petals & leaves4 ,cretan ,/it*4--,a /ill m pleas+ v>iety1 kn[n z ,cretan /it* & frequ5tly se5 on ,cretan or ,ea/]n embroid]ies1 is work$ simil>ly 9 horizontal l9es1 b ! out] & long] /it*es are small1 /raight & closely work$ toge!r1 s t x makes an excell5t solid bord] /it*1 :i* looks v h&some :5 work$ 9 metal ?reads4 ,to "w ,cretan or ,ori5tal ,/it*4--,draw f\r l9es on ! mat]ial2 />t z 9 ,fig4 #e1 on ! "r inn] l9e2 ins]t ! ne$le on ! left out] l9e1 & br+ x out on ! left inn] "o ) ! ?read "u ! ne$le2 take a /it* on ! "r out] l9e2 br+ x out on ! left inn] l9e ) ! ?read "u ! ne$le2 cont9ue alt]nately f left to "r1 tak+ c>e to keep ! /it*es exactly bel[ ea* o!r4 ,! appe>ance ( ! l9e c be slightly v>i$ by increas+ or decreas+ ! out] /it*es4 ,! inn] plait+ is regulat$ by ! size ( ! /it*es tak5 on ! out] edges4 ,see ,plate ,i41 :]e ! solid blue l9e enclos$ )9 ! *equ]$ *a9-/it*$ l9es is work$ 9 ?is way4 ,! l9es on ei!r side ( ! runn] %[ ! /it* work$ m op5ly4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #f4 ,l9k ,/it* 7,fig4 #f74--,?is is r an unusual /it*1 be+ =m$ ( l9ks connect$ by %ort /it*es4 ,to be effective1 x %\ld be work$ ) ?ick twi/$ ?read4 ,x is easily done on a gr\nd :]e ! w>p & weft ?reads are suffici5tly op5 to guide ! work]1 o!rwise two l9es p>allel %\ld be m>k$ f a qu>t] to half an in* ap>t4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #f;,a4 ,to "w ,l9k ,/it* 7,fig4 #f;a74--,beg9 ) ! small] /it*es 7,fig4 #f;,a72 br+ ! ne$le out 9 ! middle ( ! space to be cov]$2 ins]t on ! upp] edge to ! left1 & br+ out /ill fur!r to ! left on ! l[] edge4 ,pass ! eye ( ! ne$le d[n ?r\gh ! small /it* & ins]t aga9 on ! l[] edge slightly to ! left ( ! previ\s "o2 take a v]tical /it* upw>ds & a little beyond ! c5tre1 hav+ ! ?read "u ! ne$le z 9 ,fig4 #f2 pull ! ne$le ?r\gh4 ,^! ?ree movem5ts complete ! /it*1 ! ?read be+ n[ 9 position to make ! fir/ small /it* aga94 ,?is /it* is call$ l9k$1 or knott$ *a94 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #g4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #g;,a4 ,to "w ,tte de ,buf 7,fig4 #g74--;,ano!r v>iation ( ! loop or petal /it* is call$ ,tte de ,buf4 ,"w a loop /it* z ,fig4 #g;,a1 !n take a /it* across f left to "r2 br+ ! ne$le out above ! /ret*$ ?read4 ,make ano!r loop /it*1 :i* fixes ?is 9 place4 ,?is /it* is (t5 us$ z a p[d]+4 ,x makes a good bord] /it*4 ,to "w ,cable ,*a9 7,fig4 #h74--;,cable *a9 c be work$ 9 two ways4 ,two guid+ l9es w be ( assi/ance4 ,br+ ! ne$le out at ! />t+ po9t 9 ! middle ( ! space2 =m a small loop by ?r[+ ! ?read r\nd z ,fig4 #h2 ins]t ! ne$le 9 ! c5tre ( ?is loop1 :i* w v>y 9 size accord+ to ! ?ickness ( ! ?read & ! size ( ! cable want$2 br+ x out ab\t a qu>t] ( an in* l[] d[n1 tak+ c>e to keep ! ?read "u ! po9t ( ! ne$le2 tight5 ! small loop to ! prop] size ) ! "r h&1 !n1 plac+ ! ?umb on ! /it*1 pull ! ?read ?r\gh4 ,?is =ms bo? ! small & l>ge l9k & ! ?read is 9 position to />t aga94 ,:5 work$ 9 a firmly twi/$ ?read1 su* z ,knox's l95 8cord0 floss ?read1 x makes a pretty bord] or l9e /it*4 ,a r[ ( c\*+ makes a good edg+ & emphasises ! l9e if requir$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #h4 ,by ! second me?od1 ! small /it* is made fir/1 & ! ne$le br\ght out to ! surface ab\t a qu>t] ( an in* l[] d[n2 put ! ne$le ?r\gh ! small /it* f left to "r & place ! ?umb on x2 put ! ne$le ?r\gh ! l>ge loop 9 process ( mak+ f "r to left & tight5 ! ?read suffici5tly4 ,! small /it* has n[ to be made4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #i4 ,braid ,/it* 7,fig4 #i74--,:5 a fairly heavy l9e is necess>y1 ,fig4 #i c be us$4 ,x has a braid-l appe>ance1 & = t reason is g5]ally kn[n z braid /it*4 ,"w f "r to left & />t on ! l[] edge4 ,br+ ! ?read out & place ! ?umb on x1 & twi/ ! ne$le r\nd ! held ?read1 s =m+ a loose twi/ on x 7,fig4 #i;,a74 ,!n ins]t ! ne$le 9 ! upp] l9e1 a little to ! left ( ! />t+ po9t2 br+ x out on ! l[] l9e1 exactly b5ea?2 place ! ?read "u ! ne$le1 & draw ?r\gh1 keep+ ! ?umb on ! /it* till tight5$ suffici5tly to =m ! l9k4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #i;,a4 ,,*apt] ,,vi ,,button-,,hole ,,& ,,bord] ,,/it*es--,,hem/it*+ ,,& ,,op5 ,,fill+s 8,& %e t is wise1 h] "t w pris40 ,"p ( a ,curta94--,?is illu/ration 7,plate ,,iv47 gives a "p ( a curta91 :i* is a f9e piece ( "w4 ,! design has be5 well consid]$4 ,! simple masses are admirably juxtapos$2 !y h be5 skilfully arrang$ 9 a mann] s+ul>ly appropriate to ! "w4 ,z a piece ( embroid]y t w\ld g5]ally be look$ at f "s di/ance !re has be5 no "t sp5t on m9ute detail :i* w\ld involve unnecess>y lab\r4 ,! bold1 yet da9ty treatm5t ( ! ne$lework is fir/-rate1 & ! :ole arrangem5t ( ! design1 col\r & /it*]y %[ t ! purpose = :i* ! embroid]y 0 meant mu/ h be5 cont9ually 9 ! m9d ( ! work]4 ,! circul> mass$ =ms 9 ri* r$di%-orange are set1 mo/ successfully1 ! "o aga9/ ! o!r2 ! gre5 masses1 s simple 9 %ape & satisfactory 9 col\r1 are cle>ly silh\ett$ aga9/ ! d>k backgr\nd2 ! :ite oblongs ) ! little orange circles1 ! appli$ hem & b&s 9 vivid blue1 ! int]e/+ v>iation 9 /it*]y1 all g to make a *>m+ly h>moni\s piece ( simple decoration4 ,"w ( ?is type c be made f mat]ials :i* are q inexp5sive1 & its value on t acc\nt is increas$ t5fold4 ,9 ! illu/ration1 ! v>i\s p>ts ( ! design1 col\r & /it*]y are s cle>ly br\ght out t a detail$ description is n requir$4 ,! backgr\nd is ( l95 ( a firm quality2 ! appli$ =ms may be ( l95 or ( any firm mat]ial 9 wool or cotton2 ! embroid]y is 9 wools1 cottons & silks4 ,= ! me?od ( work+ ! button-hole fill+1 see ,fig4 #aa4 ,! l>ge circul> =ms are fix$ to ! f\ndation ) a r[ ( *a9 /it*2 ! little orange circles on ! :ite gr\nd are 9 ! same /it* 7,fig4 #a74 ,! blue b&s are appli$ ) d>n+ or tack+ /it* outl9$ ) coral /it* 7,fig4 #b71 ! hem ) button-hole /it*4 ,! effective little gr\ps ( :ite on ! gre5 gr\nd are 9 petal /it* 7,fig4 #c74 ,all ! little squ>e blocks are 9 sat9 /it*4 ,h[ int]e/+ ?is con/ructional design c become to ! ne$lewoman :o uses h] p[]s ( m9d & bra91 & :o applies h] ideas to decorate all mann] ( ?+s4 ,%e w\ld no long] be cont5t to "w deta*$ sprays ( fl[]s & leaves1 /rewn promiscu\sly ov] h] "w1 once %e discov]$ :at good patt]ns %e c\ld make ) simple %apes & ) ! aid ( small pieces ( bright-col\r$ pat*es & %ort l5g?s ( mat]ial1 :i* %e might adapt & use = _m purposes4 ,v>i\s ,button-hole ,/it*es4--,button-hole /it* is "o ( ! mo/ useful ( /it*es1 ow+ to its con/ruction & adaptability1 & ! decision ) :i* x m>ks a l9e4 ,x c be us$ equally well = pla9 ne$lework1 embroid]y1 or ne$le-po9t lace2 = bord]s or fill+s1 ei!r op5 or solid1 = ! cov]+ ( raw edges1 ! outl9+ ( appliqu =ms1 or ! work+ ( fl[]s or leaves4 ,! direction1 spac+ & gr\p+ ( ! /it* may be arrang$ to suit ! "w & curv$ l9es may be foll[$ ) ! utmo/ facility4 ,inde$1 ! int]e/+ v>iations & comb9ations :i* may be obta9$ by an +5i\s work] are endless4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aj;,a4 ,!re are two ways ( work+ ! /it*1 s+le button-hole 7,fig4 #aj;,a71 & d\ble or tailor's button-hole2 ! =m]1 :5 work$ ) r a wide space betwe5 ea* /it*1 is g5]ally kn[n z blanket /it*4 ,fig4 #aj;,a gives a corn] = a bord]1 :i* w also make a suitable f9i% or head+ to ! neck ( a dress or bl\se2 x may be spac$ 9 v>i\s ways1 work$ 9 slant+ l9es1 or ) /it*es ( equal l5g?s1 work$ ov] ?reads or n>r[ braids ( a diff]5t col\r or tone4 ,:5 ! head+ =ms a close l9e1 x is usually consid]$ z a button-hole /it*4 ,plate ,i4 %[s two l9es ( button-hol+ work$ 9 gr\ps ( ?ree1 9 orange wool1 betwe5 two r[s ( *equ]$ *a9 /it*1 :]e !y s]ve to connect ! broad b&s ( orange :i* surr\nd ! bord] ( ! runn]4 ,= ! mak+ ( an actual button-hole1 or :]e a firm] & m decorative head+ is want$1 x is bett] to use ! v>iety kn[n z tailor's button-hole1 :i* has an extra knot add$ to x2 x is ?is knot :i* gives great] firmness z well z beauty to ! /it*4 ,to "w ,blanket ,/it* 7,fig4 #aj;a74--,blanket1 or s+le button-hole /it*1 is s well kn[n t x is h>dly necess>y to describe x4 ,br+ ! ne$le out at ! left end ( ! l9e or bord]2 place ! ?read "u ! left ?umb & ins]t ! ne$le z %[n 9 ,fig4 #aj;,a2 draw x ?r\gh1 /ill keep+ ! ?umb on ! ?read--! ne$le is ?us br\ght out ov] x4 ,tailor's ,button ,/it*4--,tailor's button-hole--! me?od ( work+3--,put ! ne$le into ! same position1 ) ! ?read "u x1 z = ! s+le /it*1 !n take ! ?read1 ne> ! eye ( ! ne$le1 9 ! "r h& & pass x f "r to left aga9 "u ! ne$le2 draw ! ne$le ?r\gh bo? loops & ! /it* is complete4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aj4 ,cross$ ,button-hole 7,fig4 #aj74--;,fig4 #aj %[s ano!r v>iety ( ! /it*4 ,! ?reads are cross$ by slop+ ! ne$le to ! "r = ! "o1 & to ! left = ! o!r4 ,:5 work$ on a loosely-wov5 mat]ial !y c easily be kept exact4 ,! knott$ edge may be fur!r /r5g!n$ by a r[ ( *a9 /it*1 :i* always improves ! l9e4 ,z may be se5 f ! figure1 ei!r ! "u or upp] /it*es may be ! long]1 b !y %\ld n be v>i$ on ! same bord]1 o!rwise ! regul>ity ( ! "w w be impair$4 ,fl[]s 9 ,button-hole ,/it* 7,plate ,,xiii474--,fig4 #aa may be us$ = a solid or op5 gr\nd/it*2 x makes a *>m+ fill+ :5 work$ ov] ! mat]ial = ! petals ( l>ge fl[]s1 ea* petal be+ outl9$ ) *a9 /it*1 c\*+1 or back /it*+ 7,plate ,,xi474 ,:5 work+ ov] a f\ndation1 ! fir/ r[ & ! la/ only are fix$ to ! mat]ial2 ! int]v5+ r[s are work$ into ! head+s or loops ( ! prec$+ r[s4 ,:5 ! spaces to be fill$ ) /it*]y ( ?is type are n ( su* a =m z to all[ ( work+ cont9u\sly1 ea* r[ ( /it*]y mu/ be atta*$ to ! mat]ial at ! sides1 to keep x 9 position2 ! r[s are !n work$ to & fro f "r to left1 or vice v]s4 8,a ,portire0 7,plate ,,iv474--,9 ?is piece ( "w an excell5t example ( ?is me?od ( fill+ is se52 ! gr\ps ( five /it*es work$ 9 lemon wool1 on a black l95 backgr\nd1 make a bright *equ]$ effect1 :i* adds bo? int]e/ & di/9ction to ! design4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aa4 ,button-hole ,fill+ ( a ,space 7,fig4 #aa74--;,fig4 #aa %[s cle>ly ! me?od ( fill+ an op5 space 9 ?is way4 ,! edges mu/ be button-hol$ 9 ! mann] describ$ = :ite "w1 unless a braid is us$1 :5 ! firm edge :i* x gives is suffici5t )\t extra /it*+4 ,beg9 at ! "r upp] corn]2 make ?ree small ov]ca/ /it*es to c>ry ! ?read into position = work+ ! fir/ r[1 :i* consi/s ( gr\ps ( ?ree button-hole /it*es work$ loosely into ! edges ( ! braid or mat]ial2 at ! end ( ! r[ fa/5 ! ?read to ! braid2 aga9 ov]ca/ ?ree /it*es2 "w ! second r[ ( button-hole into ! loops or spaces ( ! previ\s r[2 cont9ue 9 ?is way until ! space is fill$2 ! la/ r[ %\ld be work$ into ! braid1 9 ord] to keep ! o!rs 9 position4 ,plate ,x4 has ! c5tral portion enri*$ by a fill+ work$ 9 button-hole 9 blue flax ?read4 ,x is comm5c$ f ! c5tre2 ! l9es ( ! patt]n are !n foll[$ t[>ds ! out] edges 7see description on p4 #aab74 ,plate ,,xi4 %[s a simil> fill+1 9 ! fl[] at ! corn]1 :i* is also work$ 9 col\r & f9i%$ on ! inn] r[ ( button-hol+ by a l9e ( back /it*4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ab;,a4 ,a ,diap]$ ,bord] 7,fig4 #ab;a74--,q an int]e/+ solid diap]$ backgr\nd may be obta9$ by work+ ^! /it*es 9 r[s1 9 gr\ps ( ?ree or five4 ,! clu/]s are work$ closely at ! top2 ! second r[ has ! apex ( ea* clu/] fitt+ into ! base ( ! prec$+ "o4 ,a v pleas+ bord] 9 contra/+ col\rs may be obta9$ 9 ?is way2 ! two firm l9es ( button-hol+ w1 ( c\rse1 =m ! out] edges4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ab;,b4 ,d\ble ,button-hole 7,fig4 #ab;b74--,d\ble button-hol+ has two r[s ( button /it* 7,fig4 #ab;,b74 ,! fir/ mu/ h ! /it*es spac$ s z to all[ ( ! second r[ ( /it*es dovetail+ into ^? ( ! fir/4 ,?is v>iety c be appli$ v successfully to braid or galoons1 9 :i* cases ! /it*es ne$ n rea* to ! opposite side z 9 ,fig4 #ab;,b4 ,leaves 9 ,button-hole ,/it*4--,a v good me?od ( fill+ leaves is to "w !m 9 two r[s ( button-hol+1 back to back1 ! firm c5tral l9e =m+ ! mid-rib ( ! leaf & ! r brok5 out] l9e sugge/+ ! s]ration ( ! edges4 ,small fl[]s1 fl[] c5tres & b]ries are frequ5tly work$ 9 ?is way 7,plate ,,xiii474 ,! head+ ( ! /it* =ms ! outl9e4 ,an old-fa%ion$1 b qua9t v>iety ( gr\nd-fill+ to be se5 on "s ( ! e>li] samples consi/$ ( successive r[s ( ^! little eyelet /it*es4 ,! mat]ial 0 fir/ pi]c$ by a /iletto at regul> int]vals2 ea* hole 0 !n button-hol$ or ov]ca/ r\nd4 ,! ins]tion ( ! ne$le into a common c5tre =m$ an op5+ :i* gave a light] effect to ! backgr\nd4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ac4 ,decorative ,back ,/it* 7,fig4 #ac74--,?is figure is simply back /it*4 ,to be effective & to make room = ! int]lac+ ?read1 x %\ld be work$ r l>g] ?an usual1 & ) a ?ick] ?read1 f "o-eigh? to a qu>t] ( an in* 9 l5g?4 ,a ?read ( a contra/+ tone is !n lac$ ?r\gh1 eye ( ! ne$le =emo/1 ! loops ( ea* /it* be+ regulat$ be=e pass+ on to ! next4 ,back /it* 0 greatly 9 use 9 ! sev5te5? & e>ly eighte5? c5turies1 = ! adornm5t ( all sorts ( articles4 ,quilts1 hang+s1 & p]sonal clo?+ 7 ornam5t$ 9 ?is way ) b&s & patt]ns4 ,^! 7 sometimes produc$ by *a9 /it* work$ on ! wrong side ( ! mat]ial1 :i*1 z an embroid]ess kn[s1 =ms a r[ ( back /it*+ on ! rev]se side--! "r side 9 ?is case4 ,rev]sible ,back ,/it*4--,sometimes ^! patt]ns 7 work$ 9 rev]sible back /it*1 9 ord] to make bo? sides ( ! /it*+ alike1 = 9 ^? days ne$lework]s did n grudge ei!r ! "t or ! pati5ce sp5t on _! embroid]ies4 ,rev]sible back /it*1 s-call$1 is a runn+ or d>n+ /it*4 ,all %\ld be regul> & equal 9 l5g?1 or ! appe>ance ( ! "w1 :5 f9i%$1 w n resemble back /it*4 ,! 8back0 /it* is =m$ by go+ ov] ! l9e a second "t ) a runn+ /it*1 :i* fills up ! spaces on bo? sides ( ! mat]ial & r5d]s x rev]sible4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ad4 ,honeycomb ,fill+ 7,fig4 #ad74--,?is patt]n has an advantage ov] "s ( ! m elaborate backgr\nd /it*es2 x is easily & quickly work$1 & mo/ ( ! ?read is on ! surface4 ,x is kn[n to "s ne$lewom5 z honeycomb /it*1 to o!rs z ,mexican /it*4 ,to "w ,honeycomb or ,mexican ,/it*4--,to obta9 ! be/ result "w ! small f\ndation /it*es 9 "o tone & ! int]lac+ 9 ano!r4 ,if work$ on a mat]ial :]e ! w>p & weft ?reads are di/9ct ! small /it*es may be kept q regul> )\t difficulty1 o!rwise x is bett] to m>k _! position by means ( a rul] & p5cil4 ,! spac+ w v>y accord+ to ! mat]ial & ! ?read us$2 ab\t half an in* %\ld be left betwe5 ea* small /it* = bold effective "w1 & ! second r[ %\ld alt]nate ) ! fir/4 ,:5 all are 9 position1 a long ?read is tak5 = ! int]lac+1 :i* is done 9 r[s4 ,fa/5 ! ?read at ! "r top corn]1 &1 eye ( ne$le =emo/1 pass ?r\gh ! fir/ /it* 9 ! top r[1 d[n to ! second1 up to ! top r[ aga91 & s on1 z %[n 9 ,fig4 #ad4 ,z ! edges are undef9$1 ?is /it* requires a good firm outl9e r\nd x4 ,table ,runn] 7,plate ,v47 ( cream cotton canvas1 or nett+1 is ( a v op5 texture2 x is treat$ 9 a simple direct mann]1 :i* is bo? pleas+ to ! eye & int]e/+ to ! work]4 ,x may be made ( half-a-y>d ( mat]ial1 #ed in*es by #ah in*es4 ,! patt]n is work$ 9 wools & ?ick cottons1 9 /it*]y em95tly suit$ to ! loosely-wov5 texture4 ,me?od ( work+3--,turn ov] on to ! front surface a s+le fold ( ab\t #a in* on ea* side & tack 9 place to prev5t fray+2 lat] on ^! raw edges w be cov]$ ) galoon or braid4 ,all[ ab\t #ab in*es at ea* end = ! wide hem1 & f !re ab\t #ad in*es = ! ne$le-weav+4 ,get ! c5tre l9e by means ( a measur+ tape2 cut t5 w>p ?reads at ea* end ( ! b>1 :i* 9 ?is mat]ial is ab\t ?ree-qu>t]s ( an in*4 ,great c>e mu/ be tak5 9 cutt+ ! top ?reads to see t !y correspond exactly ) ^? already cut4 ,x is a good plan to draw ! two out] ?reads a little1 ! tight5+ ( :i* w indicate ! exact place to cut ! upp] ones4 ,?is b> %\ld be work$ be=e ! adjac5t b>s are cut4 ,leave a /rip ( mat]ial ab\t half an in* wide on ei!r side1 !n proce$ to cut ! weft ?reads1 z be=e1 = ! broad] b&s--ea* is ab\t "o-&-?ree-qu>t] in*es wide1 s t tw5ty-f\r ?reads are )drawn4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,v4 ,a ,,bureau ,,sc>f4 ,9 weav+ ^! wide /rips1 a frame is ( assi/ance on acc\nt ( ! v s(t nature ( ! mat]ial3 ! patt]n %\ld be easily foll[$ f ! illu/ration1 b p]haps a few sugge/ions might help ! beg9n]4 ,fig4 #ca gives ! me?od ( weav+4 ,/>t ) cream cotton or flax2 run a few /it*es on ! "u side2 br+ ! ne$le to ! po9t & weave1 by pass+ ov] ?ree ( ! d\ble w>p ?reads & "u ?ree1 backw>ds & =w>ds1 until ^! upright ?reads are completely cov]$--x is necess>y dur+ ?is process to press d[n ! ?reads closely f "t to "t1 & c>e mu/ be tak5 n to tight5 ! gr\ps too mu* or ! mat]ial w get puck]$4 ,repeat ^! wov5 b>s 9 diff]5t gr\ps ( col\r to ! end ( ! /rip1 :i* gives five gr\ps 9 cream flax & ?ree 9 col\r1 jade gre51 r$di%-purple1 royal blue4 ,cov] ! half-in* b&s ( mat]ial ) a h]r+-bone or ori5tal /it*1 work$ 9 cream l95 floss embroid]y ?read4 ,take up ! /r&s 9 gr\ps ( ?ree on ei!r side--?is sep>ates ! ?reads into gr\ps & simplifies ! weav+ ( ! next /rip4 ,proce$ n[ ) ! m elaborate weav+4 ,x w be notic$ t ! weav+ moves 9 a /ep-l mann]1 & t ! patt]n *anges ?ree times 9 ea* asc5d+ or desc5d+ l9e1 s t ea* l9e f edge to edge is divid$ into ?reads4 ,beg9 ) ! gre5 gr\p & pass "u & ov] f\r gr\ps ( ?read 79 ,plate ,v4 ! gr\p work$ 9 purple is ! mo/ di/9ct74 ,ea* gr\p1 z be=e1 consi/s ( ?ree d\ble w>p /r&s2 weave "o-?ird ( ! space1 !n leave out ! f\r? gr\p2 cont9ue to weave on ?ree gr\ps = ano!r ?ird ( ! space2 leave out ! ?ird gr\p2 f9i% ) two gr\ps4 ,ov]ca/ "o /it* into ! canvas & weave ov] two fre% gr\ps d[nw>ds = "o-?ird ( ! di/ance1 !n ov] ! next two gr\ps ( ! second ?ird2 !n take up ! two next gr\ps & weave to ! edge ( ! ?reads--?us weav+ diagonally 9 gr\ps ( two f ! bottom ( ! b>1 ?is la/ r[ produces a s]ies ( /eps4 ,repeat ! same 9 asc5d+ gr\ps2 f9i% exactly 9 ! same mann] z be=e1 ) ! exception t ! weav+ ov] f\r gr\ps is ?is "t at ! top ( ! b>--^! masses ( weav+ are sep>at$ by pla9 b>s ( cream1 wov5 ov] f\r gr\ps4 ,! cut ?reads at ! top are button-hol$ to keep !m secure4 ,l9es ( d>n+ /it*es connect ! edges ) ! wov5 b>s4 ,! b&s ( galoon are n[ laid ov] ! turn$-ov] folds1 hem/it*$ on ! "o side & button-hol$ on ! o!r1 ) dull blue2 a l9e ( tack+ /it* 9 c]ise gives a t\* ( bright col\r to ! out] edge4 ,turn up ab\t #f in*es at ea* end to give weight to ! hems2 fill ! c5tral p>ts ) d>n+ /it*es work$ 9 r[s--x is be/ to m>k (f ! c5tral unwork$ space ) l9es be=e beg9n+ ?is d>n+2 ?is s]ves z a guide & prev5ts ! /it*+ f encroa*+ on ! space4 ,! galoon on ei!r side is atta*$ ) button-hol+ & ,fr5* knots--! spaces be+ fill$ ) laid ?reads 9 cream1 c\*$ 9 ! same col\r4 ,lat*et d>ns give emphasis & connect ! gre5 b>s4 ,f9ally1 ! b& ( gre5 is plac$ ov] ! hem to f9i% x4 ,! edges ( ! galoon are button-hol$ ) blue to correspond ) ! re/ ( ! runn]4 ,lat*et d>ns are b&s ( weav+2 ! upright ?reads are laid1 n too closely1 to repres5t ! w>p ?reads1 !n ! weft ?reads are wov5 9 backw>ds & =w>ds2 ! edges are kept free exactly z 9 ! o!r wov5 b>s4 ,^! lat*et d>ns make an excell5t f9i% ei!r to a bag1 :]e !y s]ve to hold ! draw+-up cords1 or to a dress1 :]e !y ornam5t or keep ! belt 9 position4 ,all /r&s )drawn1 :5 ( a useful l5g?1 %\ld be c>efully kept4 ,!y c be us$ 9 _m diff]5t ways to make cords1 tassels1 or fr+es4 ,,*apt] ,,vii ,,laid ,,"w--,,basket ,,& ,,l9e ,,/it*es 8,& ?\ %alt embroid] ! coat ( f9e l951 & ?\ %alt make ! girdle ( ne$lework40 ,a ,sidebo>d ,clo?4--,plate ,,vi4 gives an example ( a v h&some sidebo>d clo?4 ,! canvas is ( ! t\gh h>d-we>+ type1 g5]ally us$ to cov] basket hamp]s1 b "u ! skilful f+]s ( ! embroid]ess x became a beautiful piece ( "w1 ) :i* "o might well adorn a good piece ( furniture4 ,! illu/ration %[s ! design1 :i* is ( ! simple /raight-l9e type4 ,! canvas1 ( r a heavy weight1 is ( a ri* w>m br[n2 ! ?reads ( floss embroid]y l95 are 9 ri* blue1 tussore col\r1 em]ald gre51 grey-gre51 a pale blue-gre5 & br[n4 ,! design is plac$ at ! ends1 :]e x =ms b>s & blocks ( ri* col\r+4 ,x occupies ab\t #h or #i in*es1 #f in*es = ! embroid]y1 & #b in*es = ! wide b& ( braid4 ,! /it*]y is made up ( b>s ( ne$le-weav+ ) b>s & blocks ( solid embroid]y4 ,! wide b&s at ! top & foot1 enclos+ ! c5tral portion1 are ( ne$le-weav+ 9 a p]fectly simple patt]n4 ,ea* b& is ab\t #a in* wide2 !y are work$ 9 blue-br[n & ?ree %ades ( gre54 ,! b> 9 ! c5tral panel is wov5 9 tussore & light gre51 surr\nd$ by a bord] 9 sat9 /it* ( em]ald gre54 ,! upright b>s or /raps on ei!r side are wov5 9 bright blue ) blue-gre5 crosses 9 ! c5tre2 ! *equ]$ squ>es 9 tussore & blue are enclos$ by em]ald gre5 b&s 9 sat9 /it*4 ,! backgr\nd ( ! c5tral panel is work$ 9 *equ]s ( blue tussore & light blui%-gre52 ! little crosses1 h>dly visible 9 ! illu/ration1 are all 9 em]ald1 :ile ! d>n+ /it*1 :i* =ms ! backgr\nd1 is 9 bright blue4 ,squ>e ,/it*4--,! rema9d] ( ! backgr\nd is work$ 9 squ>e /it* 7see ,figs4 ,l & ,m74 ,a fold ( ! canvas turn$ ov] on to ! "r side has a fray$ edge2 ?ree or f\r ?reads are )drawn--?is gives a pretty s(t effect2 ! fold is tack$ d[n ov] a creamy-fawn skirt braid1 ) l9es ( c\*+ 9 tussore4 ,^! l9es h ! appe>ance ( back /it*+1 b are 9 reality c\*$ d[n2 !y are sewn 9 t int]e/+ me?od ( bygone days1 :5 embroid]]s work$ mu* 9 gold ?reads4 8,po9t r5tr et retir40--,! surface ?read is pull$ ?r\gh & caught und]nea? by means ( ano!r ?read :i* nev] appe>s ^u ! surface at all2 ?is me?od has be5 appli$ to backgr\nds work$ 9 silk1 z well z 9 gold 7p4 #ha74 ,x is economical 9 use & v durable4 ,"o c well und]/& ! reason ( its use1 b n ! cause ( its fall+ out ( use4 ,probably ?is 0 due to ! gradual decad5ce ( embroid]y 9 ?is c\ntry t[>ds ! end ( ! f\rte5? c5tury1 or p]haps ! !n new me?od ( c\*+--9 use at ! pres5t day--involv$ less "t & lab\r4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,vi4 ,a ,,sidebo>d ,,clo? ,! wide d>k b> at ! end ( ! "w is ( d>k br[n braid1 ab\t #b in*es wide1 ) /raps ( ! light] braid c\*$ d[n 9 br[n ?read2 ^! /raps are c>ri$ d[n ov] ! fr+e :i* has be5 add$ 9 ! v>i\s col\rs ) a cro*et hook 7p4 #aae74 ,! sidebo>d clo? is #ed in*es by #bb in*es wide4 ,! fr+e is ab\t #d in*es deep4 ,laid ,"w4--,laid "w is p>ticul>ly effective = ! fill+ ( l>ge surfaces1 :]e a bold def9ite mass ( col\r is requir$4 ,x is a me?od ( apply+ ?reads :i* gives a ri* appe>ance almo/ simil> to t a*iev$ by ! appliqu ( "s ri* silk mat]ial4 ,! /it*es are on ! surface only & are g5]ally v long2 !y h to be cross$ & recross$ by o!r /r&s1 :i* 9 _! turn are ti$ d[n by little /it*es4 ,:5 work$ 9 floss silk1 a fav\rite m$ium ) ,ea/]n embroid]]s1 x is a /it* p> excell5ce = %[+ (f ! beauty & lu/r\s %e5 ( ! ?read1 b x is n a v durable type ( "w1 & is !re=e only suitable = su* articles z are n expos$ to h>d we>1 unless work$ 9 wools or ?ick cottons4 ,all ! ?reads on ! surface are 8laid10 z ! t]m is1 9 p>allel l9es ei!r v]tical or 9 :atev] direction is be/1 9 ord] to all[ ! c\*+ l9es to acc5tuate ! =m or patt]n2 x adds to ! durability ( ! "w if ^! ?reads are laid r widely ap>t to beg9 )1 z x all[s ! ne$le to get a firm] hold ( ! mat]ial2 ! spaces are !n fill$ up by work+ ov] ! surface a second "t4 ,comp>e ,fig4 #ae & note fir/ lay] ( /it*es4 ,= example1 let u suppose ! v]tical ?reads are laid--! horizontal ones1 ( ano!r col\r p]haps1 c\ld be plac$ ov] !m1 ab\t ?ree-qu>t]s ( an in* ap>t2 small upright /it*es1 ab\t half an in* ap>t1 c\ld c\*1 or fa/5 ^! d[n1 "o r[ alt]nat+ ) ! o!r4 ,?is is a mo/ decorative me?od ( fill+ 9 l>ge fl[]s or leaves4 ,s+le petals c be laid diagonally1 cross$ & ti$ d[n1 or a complete fl[] may h laid l9es radiat+ f ! c5tre1 ) ! second lay] ( ?reads 9 conc5tric circles c\*$ d[n ) small /it*es ( a contra/+ col\r4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ae4 ,*equ]$ or ,basket ,patt]n 7,fig4 #ae74--;,fig4 #ae gives a plait$ or basket patt]n2 aft] ! v]tical ?reads are laid or plac$ 9 position 9 su* a way z to lie easily--j fill+ ! =m--! weav+ 9 ( ! cross ?reads is a simple matt]4 ,to "w a ,*equ]$ ,patt]n4--,beg9 at ! "r-h& corn] & pass ! ne$le ov] & "u ?ree /r&s = ?ree r[s1 !n rev]se ! *equ] by lift+ ! /it*es previ\sly pass$ ov]4 ,?is "w looks mu* bett] if ! d>n+ is all done f "r to left4 ,x is n s economical 9 ?read1 b mu* m practical on acc\nt ( its great] durability1 z ! ?reads all lie ! same way2 !y are c>ri$ back beh9d ! mat]ial in/ead ( be+ work$ to & fro z 9 ord9>y d>n+4 ,! ,italian1 ,spani% & ,japanese embroid]]s make great use ( ^! laid /it*es :i*1 l mo/ o!r /it*es1 probably orig9at$ 9 ! ,ea/1 z !y are to be met ) 9 mo/ ori5tal embroid]ies4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #af4 ,basket or ,/roke ,/it* 7,fig4 #af74--,?is figure gives ano!r good l9e 9 r high relief /it*]y4 ,x is sometimes call$ plait$ /it*1 sometimes fi%bone1 b x is really a /roke /it*2 x is mo/ effective & useful = a solid l9e1 :e!r work$ on co>se mat]ial ) a ?ick twi/$ ?read1 or on f9e mat]ial ) a correspond+ly f9e twi/$ silk ?read4 ,x has a /rong resemblance to "s ( ! plait$ ,slav or ,alg]ian /it*es4 ,x may be easily work$ on mo/ mat]ials1 especially if a c\ple ( guid+ l9es are trac$ be=e sett+ to "w4 ,q a broad bord] may be attempt$ :i* w look well if work$ 9 a co>se ?read4 ,to "w ,basket ,/it*4--,br+ out ! ne$le at ! top ( ! l9e on ! left2 make a slant+ /it* d[nw>ds to ! "r l9e2 pass ! ne$le "u ! mat]ial & br+ x out on ! left opposite2 take a slant+ /it* upw>ds ov] ! fir/ /it* to ! "r & ins]t ! ne$le a little l[] ?an ! level ( ! fir/ /it*2 !n pass "u ! mat]ial to ! left side aga9 & br+ x out j "u ! fir/ /it*2 take a slant+ /it* d[nw>ds aga9 & cont9ue by tak+ a cross & a slant+ /it* alt]nately4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ag4 ,net /it* c also be us$ z a surface /it* or z a fill+ = an op5 space4 ,x is a me?od ( int]lac+ :i* "o frequ5tly f9ds on ! seats ( small *airs1 9 ! con/ruction ( baskets & o!r wick] articles4 ,x may be work$ ) ! l9es set fur!r ap>t ?an ^? 9 ! figure4 ,! horizontal l9es are /ret*$ fir/1 n too tightly2 ^! are foll[$ by oblique l9es :i* />t f ! left l[] corn]4 ,! f9al r[1 also 9 oblique l9es1 />ts at ! "r2 ea* r[ is int]lac$ ) two o!rs4 ,x is useful & mo/ effective :5 us$ z a surface /it*1 z a fill+ = geometrical =ms2 :5 us$ z a lace /it* work$ 9 a l95 ?read ! l9es may be duplicat$4 ,?is net is g5]ally ! f\ndation on :i* ! design is made4 ,op5work ,hems 7,fig4 #ab74--,op5work$ hems may usually be appli$ to all types ( wov5 mat]ials1 to drawn ?read "w1 & to h\sehold l954 ,!y are m decorative ?an ! ord9>y hem4 ,me?od3--,draw out ! numb] ( ?reads requir$--?is w always dep5d on ! quality ( ! mat]ial1 & v>ies f two to six2 lay ! folds = ! hem & tack !m j above ! op5 space2 fa/5 ! ?read on ! left & ins]t ! ne$le f "r to left "u f\r1 five1 or six ?reads2 pull ?r\gh ! ne$le & re-ins]t1 tak+ a v]tical /it* "u ?ree or f\r ?reads ( ! fold$ mat]ial4 ,plate ,v4 %[s a bord] ( gre5 galoon fix$ ) hem/it*+ on ! inn] side2 z ! mat]ial is v loosely wov51 no ?reads h be5 )drawn4 ,! same /it* is us$ = a head+ = a fr+e 7,fig4 #cd72 x prev5ts ! mat]ial f fray+ & collects ! /r&s into gr\ps4 ,ladd] ,hem/it*4--,a m op5 appe>ance may be giv5 by )draw+ a few m ?reads & hem/it*+ ! l[] edges also2 ?is makes a n>r[ ins]tion1 = by gr\p+ ! same ?reads toge!r1 z 9 ! upp] r[1 little p]p5dicul> /rips are =m$ :i* gives wid] spac+--! b>s sugge/ ! rungs ( a ladd]1 & on ?is acc\nt x is g5]ally kn[n z ladd] hem/it*+4 ,v&yke ,ins]tion4--,a v&yke =m is also effective2 x is work$ by gr\p+ ! /it*es ( ! second or l[] r[1 aft] hem/it*+ ! upp] r[1 9 ! foll[+ me?od3--,take up half ! ?reads ( ! fir/ clu/] & half ( ! second on ! ne$le1 !n proce$ z 9 upp] r[2 by divid+ ! gr\ps ( ! upp] r[ 9 ?is way a s]ies ( slant+ /it*es is =m$ :5 ! l[] r[ is complete4 ,antique ,hem/it*4--,!re are sev]al o!r ways ( hem/it*+ :i* only v>y slightly2 p]haps ! mo/ decorative =m is t usually se5 on old embroid]ies1 :]e ! ?read is c>ri$ r\nd a n>r[ roll$ hem1 n a fold$ "o4 ,me?od3--,"w f "r to left1 beg9n+ at ! "r corn]2 pass ! ne$le ov] & "u a clu/] ( f\r ?reads2 draw x out at ! place ins]t$2 pass x ov] ! edge ( ! roll$ hem & br+ x out on ! left ( ! clu/]1 ready to take ! next /it*1 ov] & "u ! second gr\p ( f\r /r&s4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ah4 ,r\manian ,/it* 7,fig4 #ah74--;,cretan1 ori5tal1 or ,r\manian are ! v>i\s names appli$ to ?is well-kn[n /it*4 ,x is frequ5tly to be met ) 9 ! e>ly ,engli% embroid]ies1 p>ticul>ly ^? ( ! sev5te5? c5tury4 ,x is "o ( ^? adaptable /it*es :i* are s helpful = ! decoration ( bord]s1 fill+s1 leaves1 fl[]s2 x has !re=e always be5 mu* us$ by embroid]]s4 ,to "w ,fig4 #ah4--,?is figure h>dly ne$s description1 be+ m]ely a long /it* tack$ d[n4 ,beg9 on ! left ( ! space to be fill$2 ins]t ! ne$le on ! "r edge & br+ x up 9 ! c5tre2 take a small /it* ov] ! /ret*$ ?read to fix x d[n & br+ ! ne$le out at ! left edge aga91 j bel[ ! fir/ /it*4 ,if ! ?read is /ret*$ loosely across z 9 ! ,v-%ap$ portion ( ! braid coll>1 ,plate ,,ix41 a broad & effective means ( fill+ n>r[ spaces or tack+ a braid 9 position c be obta9$ ) economy ( "t & mat]ial4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ai4 ,to "w ,f]n or ,fi%-bone ,/it* 7,fig4 #ai74--,?is /it*1 some:at simil> 9 =m1 also makes a good bord] l9e or ev5 a fill+1 if work$ 9 r[s1 see ,fig4 ,d1 ,plate ,,xi41 :]e a c5tre l9e ( mat]ial gives ! rib4 ,9 ,fig4 #ai ! /it*es meet 9 ! c5tre & h a def9ite c5tral rib4 ,a c5tral l9e %\ld be m>k$ on ! mat]ial be=e />t+ to "w x4 ,br+ ! ?read out at ! left2 take a slant+ /it* t[>ds ! c5tre & ins]t ! ne$le j beyond ! l9e2 br+ x out at ! opposite edge2 take ano!r slant+ /it* & ins]t j beyond ! l9e aga94 ,?is slight ov]lapp+ ( ! /it*es 9 ! middle gives ! solid effect to ! /it*4 ,*equ]$ ,f]n ,/it*4--,a pleas+ v>iation may be introduc$ into a quiet bord] by work+ ?is /it* 9 two col\rs2 two or ?ree /it*es work$ 9 ea* col\r w give a *equ]$ effect1 & help to relieve monotony if necess>y4 ,"w ) two ?reads1 br++ ea* to ! surface z requir$4 ,?is /it* makes a good fill+ = leaves1 ! mid l9e be+ sugge/ive ( ! mid-rib4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bj4 ,loop-/it* ,bord] 7,fig4 #bj74--,?is bord] is ( ! famili> loop or petal /it*4 ,x has be5 already describ$ 7,figs4 #c;,a & #c;,b74 ,x makes a v pretty bord] betwe5 broad b>s ( ne$le-weav+4 ,! me?od ( work+ is q ! same1 ! only diff]5ce be+ 9 ! l5g? ( ! ty+ /it*1 :i* 9 ?is bord] =ms ! /em1 :ile 9 ! fl[]s x ties ! edges ( ! petals2 ! loops are ?us rev]s$ 9 ! work+4 ,! bord] may easily be foll[$ f ,fig4 #bj4 ,plate ,,viii4 %[s ?is /it* appli$ to ! edges ( ! squ>es at ! corn]s1 :]e x s]ves to acc5tuate !m z well z to s(t5 _! outl9e4 ,table ,mat ( ,:ite ,l954--,plate ,,vii4 gives a table mat embroid]$ 9 blue2 x is ! c5tral mat ( an aft]noon tea set4 ,! design is ( a v simple nature1 compos$ by ! loops & curves ( ! ,fr5* tape4 ,! ma9 curves are =m$ ( f\r %ort l5g?s :i* meet at ! ends & sides4 ,ea* piece ( tape takes a curve at ! c5tre & beg9s & ends ) a spiral2 ! out] sides c be put 9 ) "o l5g? ( braid--eight %ort pieces w d equally well2 little rema9d]s may be economically dispos$ ( 9 ?is way4 ,! inn] p>ts ( ! curves give ! opportunity = op5work detail :i* enri*es1 :ile x light5s ! backgr\nd4 ,! design %\ld be drawn out on pap]4 ,all l9es :i* repres5t ! braid mu/ be p>allel & spac$ z ne>ly z possible to correspond to ! wid? ( x2 x is important to rememb] t braid spreads :5 curv+ & !re=e ! c5tres ( loops or circles become small] :5 plac$ on ! mat]ial2 ?is mu/ be all[$ = 9 ! draw+ out ( ! design4 ,c>e & accuracy are necess>y bo? 9 =m+ ! curves & 9 tack+ on ! braid2 ! beauty ( ! "w w\ld be m>r$ by unc]ta9 l9es & unequal curves4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,vii4 ,a ,,table ,,c5tre ,,9 ,,:ite ,,& ,,blue ,plate ,,vii4 has n mu* v>iety ( /it*2 ! relief giv5 by ! blue /it*es prev5ts any feel+ ( monotony4 ,me?od3--,tack on ! braid r\nd ! out] edges2 ov]seam ! inn] edges ( ! p>ts :i* take ! curves2 prep>e = ! m op5 spaces by snipp+ ! l951 ! way ( ! w>p & ! weft1 q close to ! braid2 !n turn ! edges 9 "u ! braid & button-hole ) blue ?read1 n too closely1 ! ne$le %\ld ent] easily into ! head ( ! /it*es = ! mak+ ( ! lace /it*--8,po9t de ,rprise40 ,^! op5+s may be back$ by small pieces ( toile cire2 a little m$allion ( button-hol$ l95 %\ld be plac$ 9 ! c5tre & tack$ firmly 9 place4 ,! connect+ ?reads = ! weav+ ( ! little b>s or bridges are laid 9 two or f\r /r&s1 accord+ to ! f95ess ( ! ?read4 ,beg9 at ! out] edge2 c>ry ! ?read to ! inn] m$allion1 & slip ! ne$le1 eye fir/1 ?r\gh a loop ( button-hole /it*2 ov]ca/ ! next "o1 & c>ry ! ?read f !re back to ! out] edge2 !n weave ov] & "u ^! two /r&s till ! c5tre is rea*$4 ,ov]sew "o or two button-hole loops & lay ! ?reads = ! next bridge2 ?is1 :5 wov51 w f9i% at ! out] edge aga94 ,ov]sew ! /it*es until ! position = ! next b> is rea*$1 & cont9ue till ! circle is fill$ 94 ,! corn]s are work$ simil>ly ) a few add$ bridges "h & !re to fill 9 spaces1 :i* w\ld o!rwise be r empty4 ,^! oval op5+s & ends might be work$ 9 :at is kn[n z ,ri*elieu "w1 in/ead ( 9 ! mann] describ$4 ,x is r a quick] me?od1 b n q s firm1 nor are ! b>s s flat4 ,me?od3--,button-hole ! inn] edge ( ! space1 also r\nd ! edge ( ! little inside m$allion2 !n lay ?ree /r&s ( ?read z ! f\ndation ( ! bridges 7see ,fig4 #bd72 button-hole ^! to ! edge & ov]sew ! button-hole /it*es ( ! out] edge until ! ?read is 9 position = ! next /rap4 ,:5 ! "w is f9i%$1 ! l95 "u ! b>s is c>efully cut away ) a v %>p pair ( embroid]y scissors4 ,run r\nd ! out] edges ( ! spaces :i* are to be fill$ 9 ) a filet or net patt]n ) two r[s ( tack+ /it* to /r5g!n1 & button-hole ov] ?is4 ,to prep>e ! me% backgr\nd1 turn on ! wrong side1 !n cut six & pass six horizontal ?reads alt]nately2 remove ! cut ?reads2 turn ! "w half r\nd & prep>e ! ?reads1 previ\sly ! v]tical ones1 9 ! same way1 t is1 cut & )draw six1 pass six4 ,turn ! "w to ! "r side aga9 & ov]sew ! /r&s1 "o /it* into ea* little space1 tak+ c>e to let ! /it*es slant 9 ! same direction on ! return r[4 ,?is gr\ndwork is also describ$ 9 connection ) ,plate ,,xv4 ,! braid has a r[ ( ,fr5* knots 9 blue to f9i% ! inn] edge4 ,= ! f9i%+ ( ! edges ( ! mat1 a firm] edge w be made by cutt+ ! l95 a qu>t] ( an in* beyond ! braid & turn+ x back "u ! braid1 !n button-hole ?is d\ble edge & ! braid toge!r 9 blue4 ,! little lace edge may be work$ ) ! ne$le or ) ! cro*et hook2 9 ,plate ,,vii4 ! latt] 0 us$4 ,! l[] loops are work$ 9 :ite1 ! edg+ 9 blue ) picots is work$ into x4 ,= description1 see ,*apt] ,,xiii4 on cro*et edg+s4 ,,*apt] ,,viii ,,c\*+--,,fr5* ,,knots ,,& ,,bullion ,,/it* 8,:5 %e rode 9 coa* abroad1 0 always knott+ ?read40 ,c\*+ is a pleasant & mo/ useful me?od ( apply+ ?reads1 cords or braids to mat]ials ( v>i\s k9ds4 ,= fill+ 9 =ms1 circles1 or squ>es x is equal to *a9 /it*1 & %\ld be work$ simil>ly--all =ms1 :e!r squ>es or curves1 are bett] to be comm5c$ f ! out] edge & work$ inw>ds1 9 ord] to pres]ve ! %ape4 ,special c>e is requir$ = ! outl9+ ( squ>es or angul> =ms :]e ! t5d5cy is to tight5 ! appli$ mat]ial1 :e!r ?reads or braids1 9 turn+ ! corn]s4 ,at ^! po9ts ! ?reads or braids %\ld lie easily & !y %\ld be firmly sewn d[n ) clos] /it*]y4 ,c\*+ is "o ( ! simple/ means ( decorat+ velvet1 a mat]ial always difficult ( manipulation1 & p>ticul>ly s = ! beg9n]1 on acc\nt ( ! pile1 :i* is apt to cause irregul>ity 9 ! /it*]y4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ba4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ba;,a4 ,c\*+ 7,figs4 #ba1 #ba;a74--,?is /it* is (t5 work$ 9 a frame--x is easi] to keep ! mat]ial /ret*$2 :5 work+ diagonal l9es or circles1 :]e mu* ( ! /it*]y comes on ! cross ( ! mat]ial1 x is advisable to d s4 ,by means ( c\*+1 ! embroid]ess may %>ply def9e an outl9e1 fill 9 v>i\s =ms1 geometric or o!rwise1 repair a worn surface1 "w diap] patt]ns1 or atta* metal ?reads & braids to h] embroid]y 7,plate ,,xvi474 ,x is a "n appli$ to a me?od ( atta*+ ?reads s+ly or 9 gr\ps to a f\ndation by means ( ano!r ?read1 usually a s+le "o4 ,"u all circum/ances ?is %\ld be f9] ?an ! ?read or cord sewn d[n4 ,x is mo/ economical 9 use z ! ?reads lie on ! surface--a po9t well wor? consid]ation 7,plate ,,iii474 ,probably x 0 orig9ally us$ = ! sew+ on ( gold ?reads1 :i* 7 too preci\s to be wa/$1 be+ made ( pure metal--naturally ! difficulty ( draw+ ^! metal ?reads ?r\gh ! mat]ial w\ld lead to ! simple/ means ( atta*m5t4 ,at any rate1 ?is me?od ( sew+ on gold ?reads 0 9 g5]al use all ov] ,europe z e>ly z ! twelf? c5tury4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,viii4 ,a ,,lun*eon ,,mat4 7,see page #hf47 ,c\*+ is p>ticul>ly useful z an outl9e to /it*+1 especially :]e a weak l9e requires def9+4 ,an irregul>ly sewn =m1 :e!r floral or geometrical1 may be mu* improv$1 & ! col\r may also be enhanc$1 by a firmly c\*$ outl9e4 ,x is mo/ conv5i5t = sew+ d[n appli$ "w4 ,prim>ily x cov]s ! jo91 & is ( consid]able importance 9 aid+ ! col\r s*eme 7,plate ,,iv474 ,:]e simple treatm5t %[s to advantage1 c\*$ ?reads1 outl9$ ) metal cord1 give ! necess>y means ( express+ ta/e & *oice ( col\r1 & ) a little extra /it*+ to indicate ve9+s or :atev] detail !re may be1 c\*+ c aga9 be appli$ ) good results1 in/ead ( resort+ to ano!r /it*4 ,x is work$ f "r to left2 ! small ty+ d[n /it*es may be /raight or slant$1 b !y ought n to be plac$ too f> ap>t--= simple decorative "w1 f a sixte5? to a qu>t] ( an in*1 ! latt] = ! atta*+ ( wools or y>ns & n>r[ braids1 ! =m] = f9] "w4 ,"o ( ! commone/ mi/akes ( a beg9n] is to c\* ) a ?ick ?read1 ea* /it* v>y+ f a half to "o-&-a-half in*es ap>t4 ,?is entirely de/roys ! "* & effect ( ! appli$ ?reads4 ,:5 c\*+ a /raight l9e ) cord or braid x %\ld be held r tightly1 :ile ) wool or silk a pretty bead-l appe>ance c be got by hold+ ! ?read r loosely 7,plate ,,xvi474 ,! fa%ion ( sew+ on a cord invisibly--z 9 uphol/]y--by untwi/+ ! cord slightly betwe5 ea* /it* %\ld nev] be resort$ to = embroid]y4 ,anci5t me?od ( ,c\*+1 8,po9t r5tr et retir40--,a mo/ int]e/+ me?od ( c\*+1 :i* un=tunately fell out ( use1 0 practis$ up till ! middle ( ! f\rte5? c5tury4 ,! c\*+ ?read 0 on ! rev]se side1 & 0 g5]ally ( /rong wax$ l95 ?read1 :i* did n appe> on ! surface at all4 ,! gr\nd mat]ial 0 =m$ ( two lay]s ( l951 & ! gold or silk ?read 0 kept on ! surface1 only p5etrat+ ! lay]s ( l95 at int]vals :]e ! l95 c\*+ ?read _h drawn x ?r\gh4 ,"s ( ! beautiful specim5s ( e>ly ,engli% "w1 ! fam\s ,syon ,cope & ! ,jesse ,cope1 to be se5 9 ! ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum1 ! backgr\nds ( :i* are cov]$ ) c\*+ done 9 ?is qua9t & durable fa%ion1 are well wor? /udy+4 ,! l95 backgr\nd ( ! ,syon ,cope is c\*$ 9 col\r$ silk1 t ( ! ,jesse ,cope 9 f9e gold4 ,! two l9es on ! out] edges ( ! sidebo>d runn]1 :i* has almo/ ! appe>ance ( back /it*+1 are work$ 9 ?is way 7,plate ,,vi474 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bb;,a4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bb;,b4 ,fr5* ,knots 7,figs4 #bb;a1 #bb;b74--,fr5* knots c be appli$ ) arti/ic effect 9 _m ways1 n z an outl9e1 b z an adjunct to "s ( ! l9e /it*es1 su* z *a9 /it*1 c\*+1 back /it*1 etc4 7,plate ,,xiv474 ,!y may be us$ to add t\*es ( col\r to a patt]n1 to modify or enri* x 7,plate ,,xiii472 to p[d] backgr\nds1 ei!r s+le or 9 clu/]s1 qualify+ bo? texture & col\r2 to outl9e or fill 9 fl[] c5tres1 to =m /am5s 7,plate ,,xi472 to fill 9 lattice patt]ns or any =m t requires "s contra/ ( /it* or col\r4 ,me?od3--,to "w a ,fr5* knot1 br+ out ! ne$le at ! po9t :]e ! knot is to be2 place ! ?umb ( ! left h& ov] ! ?read 7,fig4 #bb;,a72 twi/ ! ne$le once r\nd ?is tight5$ ?read2 turn ! po9t to ! "r--?umb /ill hold+ ! ?read--& ins]t x j beh9d ! po9t :]e x came out1 & draw ! ?read ?r\gh to ! back1 or :5 "s exp]i5ce has be5 ga9$1 ! ne$le may be drawn ?r\gh on ! "r side 9 position = ! next knot4 ,! ,*9ese1 :o are adepts1 frequ5tly "w entire pieces ( embroid]y 9 knots ) su* c>e & precision t !y are almo/ me*anical 9 appe>ance4 ,!y h a me?od ( knott+ _! ?read fir/1 !n sew+ ea* knot d[n4 ,?is me?od 0 also common 9 ,engl& ab\t ! sev5te5? c5tury4 ,at t "t ladies us$ to "w up hanks ( ?read1 &1 by means ( a small cu%ion & a nett+ ne$le1 "w a succession ( knots on ! entire l5g?2 ^! hanks 7 w\nd up into balls ready = apply+ to ! "w 9 h&4 ,x is bett] 9 mak+ ,fr5* knots to use a ?ick ?read1 or if a l>ge knot is requir$1 two or m ?reads 9 ! ne$le are m satisfactory ?an twi/+ "o sev]al times r\nd ! ne$le4 ,plate ,v4 %[s knots appli$ to ! edges ( ! galoon1 :i* s]ve to fix x d[n1 z well z to give a f9i% to ! lat*et d>ns4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bc4 ,bullion ,knots 7,fig4 #bc74--;,bullion knots are frequ5tly us$ 9 :ite embroid]y :]e v>iety ( /it* is made use ( 9 ord] to relieve ! monotony4 ,!y consi/ ( little tight coils ( ?read & c be us$ mo/ successfully to =m ! c5tres ( l>ge fl[]s1 ei!r 9 a mass or 9 patt]n4 ,squ>es or loz5ge-%ap$ =ms ) a ,fr5* knot 9 ea* space make r int]e/+ fill+s4 ,fig4 #bc %[s h[ bullion knots might be appli$ 9 l9es radiat+ f ! c5tre to =m small fl[]s4 ,fl[] ,c5tre 9 ,bullion ,/it*4--,me?od ( work+3--,br+ ! ?read up on ! surface at ! c5tre2 ins]t ! ne$le at ! out] edge ( ! circle1 & draw x out = half its l5g? at ! c5tre1 beside ! ?read1 :i* n[ take hold ( ) ! "r h&1 & twi/ firmly1 b n too tightly1 r\nd ! ne$le six or eight times accord+ to ! size ( knot requir$4 ,!n place ! ?umb ( ! left h& on ! coil & draw ! ?read c>efully ?r\gh till x is tight4 ,x is always advisable to keep ! ?umb ov] ! coil dur+ ! :ole process if possible4 ,a ,good ,fl[] ,c5tre4--,make a numb] ( bullion knots to fit ! circle1 !n surr\nd ! out] circle ) "o or two r[s ( close regul>ly-siz$ ,fr5* knots4 ,bullion /it* may be us$ = small fl[]s--ea* petal be+ made ( two knots1 meet+ at ! tip--= leaves1 inside fill+s1 gr\nd p[d]+s & sprigs4 ,fig4 #bc a %[s h[ to make picots 9 bullion /it*4 ,!y are g5]ally work$ into a b> or loop ( button-hole /it*1 :i* may =m an edg+1 z 9 ,fig4 #cg1 or an op5 loop1 z 9 ,fig4 #bc b4 ,picots ( ?is type :5 work$ 9 a f9e l95 ?read are us$ = ! outl9es & edg+s ( laces4 ,to "w z ,fig4 #bc a1 make ! requir$ numb] ( button-hole /it*es1 !n ins]t ! ne$le = half its l5g? ?r\gh ! head ( ! la/ "o2 twi/ ! ?read r\nd ! ne$le f left to "r six1 eight1 or t5 times1 accord+ to ! ?ickness ( ! ?read & ! size ( ! picot requir$2 place ! ?umb ( ! left h& ov] ! coil & draw ! ne$le & ?read g5tly ?r\gh2 keep+ ! ?umb /ill on ! coil1 tight5 ! ?read until ! /it* has be5 drawn up into a small semi-circle2 !n cont9ue ! button-hole /it* till ! next picot is rea*$4 ,note ,fig4 #bc b--! ?read is plac$ "u ! ne$le be=e x is drawn ?r\gh4 ,if a l>g] picot is requir$1 x may be made 9 button-hole /it* in/ead ( bullion /it*4 ,button-hole ! b> or loop to ! left ( ! requir$ picot1 & lay ! f\ndation or padd+ ?reads = ! picot by c>ry+ a ?read to & fro ?ree times f ! left to ! "r2 pass ! ne$le ea* "t ?r\gh ! edges ( ! button-hole2 :5 ! ?ird ?read is laid ! ne$le is at ! "r side ( ! picot2 button-hole ! loop closely till x is cov]$1 !n cont9ue on to ! next po9t4 ,op5-loop$ button-hole edg+ looks v well ) ?ree bullion /it* picots1 b ! work] requires to be ( a pati5t temp]am5t1 z ea* loop takes "s "t to "w4 ,bullion knots are us$ v frequ5tly 9 ,m\nt-mellick "w4 ,?is type ( ne$lework orig9at$ 9 ,irel&2 x is ( a v elaborate nature1 g5]ally done 9 co>se :ite ?reads on a /rong :ite l95 or jean f\ndation4 ,"h monotony 9 tone all[s = a great v>iety ( /it*+4 ,op5work is n comb9$ ) x1 z ! patt]ns 9 :i* x is work$ are mo/ly ( a bold conv5tional floral type2 mo/ ( ! /it*es us$ are ^? :i* give a rais$ effect1 su* z ! diff]5t l9k$ /it*es1 *a91 cable1 rais$-/em /it*es1 ,fr5* & bullion knots1 & padd$ sat9 /it*4 ,! fl[]s are fill$ 9 ) a great v>iety ( lace /it*es4 ,button-hole b>s are useful = connect+ two edges su* z ! two sides ( a l9$ bag1 ! seams ( a *ild's frock1 or = add+ a false hem to any da9ty article4 ,!y are 9 common use = mod]n op5work embroid]y1 :]e !y =m connect+ l9ks betwe5 ! v>i\s p>ts ( ! design4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bd4 ,button-hole ,b>s 7,fig4 #bd74--;,fig4 #bd %[s ! me?od ( work+ connect+ b>s4 ,! objects to be jo9$ toge!r may be ( any %ape1 provid$ ! l9es are m or less p>allel ) ea* o!r4 ,beg9 by button-hol+ "o "p ( ! "w1 :i* w give a basis or l9e into :i* ! b>s may be work$1 !n button-hole ! "p to be jo9$ to x a few /it*es1 until ! place :]e ! b> is to be is rea*$2 lay ea* ( ! ?reads into a diff]5t loop ( ! button-hol+--?is gives a great] /r5g? & wid] surface to "w ^u2 :5 f9i%$1 button-hole along ! edge z be=e1 until ! next po9t :]e a b> is to be work$ is rea*$4 ,^! b>s are work$ ov] ?ree ?reads1 & %\ld1 :5 work$ 9 l9es1 be made be=e ! mat]ial is cut1 o!rwise x is bett] to h ! two p>ts to be jo9$ tack$ d[n on to a piece ( /iff l951 glaz$ calico1 or br[n pap]4 ,a ,lun*eon ,set4--,?is illu/ration gives a table c5tre 9 cream canvas embroid]$ 9 bright blue1 gre51 r$1 cream1 yell[1 heliotrope & black4 ,! design is simple2 x is m or less gov]n$ by ! me% ( ! mat]ial & ! me?od ( work+ x1 :i* r5d]s ! con/ruction s simple & gives a qua9tness & rigidity admirable 9 effect4 ,by exam9+ ! illu/ration x w be se5 t ! c5tral portion ( ! design is occupi$ by a broad b& ( ne$le-weav+1 ab\t two in*es wide1 work$ on ! weft ?reads1 ! w>p or v]tical ?reads hav+ be5 )drawn to ! requir$ dep?4 ,! weav+ =ms sev5 sep>ate gr\ps1 ea* ( :i* is compos$ ( two col\rs4 ,! :ole mass1 ri* 9 effect1 is f9i%$ on ei!r side ) two b>s ( lat*et d>n+2 ^! are work$ simil>ly to repair+ d>ns1 b are left free at ! sides4 ,!y are edg$ ) an ori5tal /it* 9 blue :i* may be work$ mu* clos] & m regul>ly 7see ,plate ,i41 :]e1 z a head+ to ! b& ( ne$le-weav+1 x has almo/ ! effect ( a braid74 ,! corn]s1 :i* balance ! wide ne$le-wov5 b>1 are work$ 9 *equ]s ( r$1 gre51 & blue2 ! l>g] squ>es are 9 gre51 work$ 9 a simple /it* simil> to ,fig4 #ah4 ,a r[ ( equally di/ribut$ petal or loop /it*es 7,fig4 #c1 p4 #di7 breaks ! sev]ity ( ! l9e2 sev5 l9es ( c\*+--sewn 9 self-col\rs--connect ! two ends4 ,! edges ( ! clo? are turn$ ov] on ! surface & f9i%$ ) a r[ ( blue galoon--,prussian b9d+2 ?is is tack$ 9 place on ea* side ) little triangul> /it*es 9 gre5 embroid]y cotton4 ,?r\gh ^! /it*es a ?read ( bright r$ is int]lac$2 ?is is foll[$ by a second "o 9 cream col\r4 ,l>ge tassels 7,fig4 #da1 p4 #abj7 9 blue make a f9i% to ! corn]s4 ,six little mats1 #ab in*es by #i in*es1 :5 f9i%$1 7 made to mat*1 ea* hav+ a bord] & c\*$ l9es simil> to ^? ( ! sc>f4 ,little blue tassels ( appropriate size complet$ ?is useful little set4 ,"o y>d ( mat]ial1 #ed in*es wide1 is requir$ to make ! complete set1 t is ! table sc>f1 #ed in*es wide by #bd in*es1 & six little mats1 #ad in*es by #aj in*es2 ?is all[s = folds at ends & sides4 ,if braid is us$ = f9i%+ ! hems1 aft] calculat+ ! quantity an extra y>d %\ld be all[$1 z ) s _m corn]s to turn "o is apt to be too %ort 9 ! end1 & ^! braids are (t5 difficult to mat*4 ,wools & ?ick cotton ?reads may be us$ & a l>ge-ey$ blunt-po9t$ ne$le = ! weav+ & d>n+4 ,,*apt] ,,ix ,,braids ,,& ,,design--,,faggot+--,,ve9+--,,antique ,,seams--,,knot ,,ins]tion ,,& ,,edg+ 8,!re's no?+ ne]e at h&1 or f>!re/ s\ght1 ,b ) ! ne$le may be %ap'd & wr\ght40 ,braids4--,braids 9 diff]5t wid?s are invaluable to ! embroid]ess :o wi%es to execute rapidly a piece ( "w suitable = daily h\sehold use1 :i* may possibly be expos$ to ! smoky & foggy city atmosph]e1 & on :i* %e does n wi% to exp5d mu* "t1 lab\r1 or money4 ,braids ( v>i\s k9ds & qualities--mohair1 alpaca1 wooll51 cotton or silk--c be utilis$ 9 _m ways1 & = diff]5t objects1 z well z = ! f9i%+ & decoration ( hems & bord]s 7,plates ,,ix4 & ,,xii474 ,^? :i* h an unbrok5 edge are ! be/ = ornam5tal purposes4 ,!y may =m ! basis ( simple geometrical patt]ns 7,fig4 #de72 l9es may be arrang$ to g 9 diff]5t ways1 runn+ v]tically f end to end ( a table sc>f 7,plate ,,vi471 horizontally1 z ,plate ,,iii41 or diagonally--! direction is immat]ial2 all are simple to arrange1 ) ! exception ( diagonal l9es1 :i* always require c>e 9 ! plac+ & /it*+1 on acc\nt ( ! diff]5t /ret*+ qualities ( ! braid & ( ! mat]ial4 ,sometimes ! b&s ( braid are plac$ s+ly1 sometimes 9 pairs1 "o braid--usually 9 a contra/+ col\r--be+ sup]impos$ on ! o!r4 ,!y may cross ea* o!r at "r angles1 !y may entw9e or int]lace 7,plate ,x471 or !y may be =m$ into circles or spirals 7,figs4 #de1 #ea74 ,! mann] 9 :i* braids !mselves are made1 ) ! twi/+s & int]lac+s ( /r&s & gr\ps ( ?reads1 is int]e/+2 ?is r5d]s !m peculi>ly suitable = ! design+ ( int]lac+ patt]ns1 bo? simple & intricate 7,figs4 #di1 #ej74 ,! ^w 8braid0 is tak5 f ! v]b ( ! old ,anglo-,saxon 8bregdan10 or 8br$an10 signify+ to weave1 to entw9e1 to braid2 ! latt] ^w be>+1 9 ^? days1 ! mean+ 8to plait10 a ^w :i* came into use at a lat] date4 ,! use ( braid = decorative purposes has come d[n to u f v e>ly times--x has always be5 us$ by ,ea/]n peoples mu* m ?an by ^? ( ! ,we/]n c\ntries4 ,"s ( ! elaborately work$ pieces ( ,indian & ,p]sian "w1 :]e t9sel braids are freely employ$1 are ?+s to m>vel at4 ,! peasant co/umes ( _m c\ntries--p>ticul>ly ^? = gala days--are made gorge\s by ! addition ( b&s ( brilliantly col\r$ braids1 enri*$ 9 _m cases by embroid]y4 ,braids are us$ on uni=ms1 9 an (ficial s5se1 :]e !y are consid]$ z symbols ( hon\r--! high] ! grade1 ! m elaborate ! decoration4 ,c>e mu/ be tak5 ) ! arrangem5t ( ^! patt]ns--all curves mu/ be exact1 int]lac+ designs mu/ be correct1 ! s]ies ( b&s always pass+ alt]nately ! "o "u ! o!r4 ,! possibilities = ! treatm5t ( braids & b&s1 = ! decoration & enri*m5t ( !m1 op5 up an int]e/+ field to ! "y design]4 ,by comp>+ "s ( ! plates x w be se5 t mu* has be5 done 9 a simple way by ! use ( ^! braids & tapes4 ,_m ( ! old illum9at$ manuscripts %[ wond]ful int]lac+ designs1 _m ( :i* 7 copi$ or adapt$ by embroid]]s ( ! p]iod4 ,an old ,v5etian patt]n book1 publi%$ 9 #aefb1 gives beautiful examples ( ! lett]s ( ! alphabet work$ fir/ ) an outl9e 9 n>r[ braid1 an elaborate twi/$ design be+ !n wov5 9 & out ( ! d\ble l9es ) a n>r[ braid1 ) ! help ( a tape/ry ne$le2 ! delicate po9ts & f9i%+s ( ! lett]s be+ f9i%$ 9 sat9 /it*4 ,p]haps ! be/ way to g ab\t a design 9 :i* b&s ( braid are to =m ! f\ndation ( ! design w\ld be to take "o =m & try h[ x might be adapt$ to suit ! conditions ( space & mat]ial4 ,a bord] = a circul> =m is simpl] 9 con/ruction ?an "o = a squ>e--! corn]s ( ! latt] always requir+ special att5tion--b aft] a few prelim9>y trials x w be readily se5 :at ! possibilities are4 ,int]lac+ ,knots4--,int]lac+s ( knots & b&s are always int]e/+1 & ! work+ out ( ^! designs %\ld be a pr(itable ex]cise = a beg9n]4 ,!re is su* v>iety 9 _! con/ruction1 su* simple or intricate patt]ns to be made out ( ^! cont9u\s & int]lac+ l9es1 t all craft work]s h f\nd 9 !m a ready means ( ornam5tation4 ,knot designs ( a simple k9d may be appli$ 9 ! =m ( braids & cords to _m useful articles ( dome/ic use2 ! mo/ direct way to "w out "s elem5t>y designs w\ld be to take a l5g? ( s(t cord & "s p9s1 & us+ ! back ( a cu%ion z a f\ndation1 or a cov]$ table1 p9 out a geometrical design--a squ>e w\ld be suitable = ! fir/ attempt--& develop x4 ,! fir/ squ>e might h ! braids twi/$ into small loops at ! corn]s1 ! second might h ! sides ind5t$ or loop$1 & s on4 ,make a s]ies ( ^! ) e possible v>iation2 !n all c\ld be drawn 9 a note-book1 9 squ>$ pap]--= ! sake ( ease & accuracy4 ,! ends ( ! cords or braids %\ld be p9n$ toge!r 9 ord] to =m a cont9u\s b&4 ,! next /ep w\ld be to int]weave a second l5g? ( cord into ^? already =m$4 ,c>e is necess>y to int]lace ! b&s1 s t ea* passes ov] & "u ! o!r 9 regul> rotation4 ,?is second b& might take ! =m ( ano!r squ>e1 set ! rev]se way1 or a circul> =m might be introduc$4 ,:5 all possibilities h be5 work$ out1 !y also %\ld be not$4 ,by degrees m complicat$ & intricate knots may be attempt$4 ,sometimes an elaborate =m may be work$ out on pap] to beg9 )1 !n int]lac$ & p9n$ out 9 cord4 ,! embroid]ess w f9d a note-book & a squ>e ( canvas v useful = ref]5ce1 also z aids to memory3 9 ! =m]1 %e c make notes ( designs & suitable detail1 ( col\r s*emes tak5 f pictures1 mat]ials & embroid]ies1 sugge/ions = f9i%+ & fa/5+s ( g>m5ts1 little notes & quotations suitable = embroid]y--all sorts ( int]e/+ matt] :i* ! eye is quick to see b :i* ! memory _c always recall at ! "r mom5t4 ,9 ! squ>e ( canvas or co>se l951 divid$ into sections1 might be work$ "s ( ! m int]e/+ or unusual /it*es1 or gr\ps ( /it*es2 or pleas+ comb9ations ( /it*es & col\r might be pres]v$ z ! opportunity occurr$4 ,^! might s]ve to sugge/ or recall me?ods & v>ieties suitable to "s "w 9 h&4 ,faggot+4--,faggot+ is a /it* :i* is us$ to connect two edges1 p>ticul>ly su* edges z require a da9ty f9i%1 or to fill 9 an op5 space1 or to s]ve z a f\ndation = "s int]lac+ /it*4 ,x is mu* us$ = jo9+ ribbons1 braids1 or ?9 mat]ials1 su* z n9on1 *iffon1 or crpe4 ,me?od3--,prep>e ! mat]ial = faggot+ by tack+ x on to a piece ( /iff toile cire1 glaz$ calico1 or if t is n at h&1 /iff br[n pap] w answ] ! purpose4 ,?is is done 9 ord] to keep ! edges at an equal di/ance4 ,! wid? ( ! space may v>y f "o-qu>t] to ?ree-qu>t]s ( an in*2 ! jo9+ ?read %\ld v>y 9 ?ickness--! wid] ! space1 ! ?ick] ! ?read4 ,draw two p>allel l9es on ! f\ndation z a guide1 if necess>y1 & tack ! mat]ial to ^! l9es4 ,if a braid or ribbon or any mat]ial ) a f9i%$ edge is us$1 !re is no ne$ = turn+s1 b ) a raw edge x is necess>y to turn 9 ?ree-eigh?s ( an in* & to press !m ) an iron be=e />t+4 ,to "w ! /it*1 beg9 at ! upp] end ( ! left-h& corn] ) a small /it*2 cross to ! opposite side2 take a /it*1 keep+ ! ?read "u ! ne$le2 "w alt]nately f side to side1 always ins]t+ ! ne$le f ! outside4 ,keep ! /it* regul>1 ! same size & ! int]vals ( equal di/ance4 ,faggot+ is practically a h]r+-bone /it*1 b ! ne$le is ins]t$ v]tically4 ,see ,plate ,i4 & comp>e ! /it*]y 9 blue :i* =ms a l9e up ei!r side4 ,x =ms ! f\ndation = _m int]lac+ /it*es ( :i* !re are q a v>iety adaptable to v>i\s purposes4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #be4 ,by int]lac+ ?reads z 9 ,fig4 #be1 :]e ! dott$ l9e repres5ts ! int]wov5 ?read1 ! :ole ( ! f\ndation /it*es c be cov]$4 ,x mu/ be done 9 r[s1 "o aft] ! o!r4 ,! fir/ r[ is drawn mu* tight] ?an ! "o 9 ,fig4 #be1 ea* successive r[ be+ plac$ on ! outside ( ! previ\s r[1 till ev5tually ! faggot+ f\ndation has almo/ disappe>$4 ,a v good l9e ( rais$ /it*]y c be work$ on to a f\ndation ( h]r+-bone /it*+4 ,! ?reads are lac$ 91 "o r[ at a "t1 z %[n 9 ,fig4 #be4 ,see ,plate ,,xiv41 :]e x is work$ r\nd ! out] edge1 also 9 ! nightdress case 7,plate ,,xi471 :]e x =ms ! n>r[ inn] bord]4 8,po9t d',al5con40--,faggot or ,russian is "o ( ! /it*es us$ 9 ! mak+ ( po9t lace or ,honiton po9t4 ,z a lace /it*1 x goes "u ! "n ( 8,po9t d',al5con40 ,x is us$ to jo9 ! braids2 x also makes "o ( ! pr9cipal fill+ /it*es = leaves or oval spaces4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bf4 ,ve9+ 7,fig4 #bf74--;,fig4 #bf %[s a well-kn[n jo9+ /it*1 :i* looks well if done 9 a twi/$ silk1 wool1 or l954 ,x makes a pretty ins]tion1 & adds mu* to ! appe>ance ( a seam4 ,x is a n>r[ l9e /it*1 !re=e ! two edges ( ! mat]ial %\ld n be too widely spac$4 ,prep>e ! edges 9 ! same mann] z = faggot+ & tack !m on to a /iff f\ndation4 ,me?od3--,fa/5 ! ?read to ! edge ( ! mat]ial2 c>ry ! ne$le across to ! opposite edge2 ins]t x "u & br+ x ?r\gh ! mat]ial2 twi/ ! ?read twice r\nd ! ne$le & ins]t x on ! opposite side f und]nea?1 z %[n 9 ! diagram2 ov]sew a few /it*es along ! edge to c>ry ! ?read into position = ! next /it*4 ,?is ins]tion is useful = jo9+ braids1 = dress fitm5ts & o!r purposes2 x is mu* 9 vogue = ! jo9+ ( ?9 mat]ials1 su* z *iffon & n9on or crpe2 ^! require to h a fold laid & press$ be=e be+ tack$ on to ! pap]4 ,a v pretty addition to a bord]1 :e!r = a piece ( ornam5tal "w1 = ! edg+ ( a coll>1 ! jo9+ up ( a bag1 or = ! foot ( a jump]1 is made by ins]t+ betwe5 ! mat]ial a l9e ( gold t9sel or velvet ribbon1 braid1 or ev5 mat]ial ( a contra/+ col\r4 ,?is mu/ be tack$ on firmly to a f\ndation ( /iff calico or br[n pap]1 !n atta*$ by an ins]tion to ! edges ( ! mat]ial4 ,?is /it*1 :e!r us$ z an ins]tion or z a fill+1 mu/ also 9 ?is case be c>efully arrang$ & regul>ly work$1 o!rwise ! appe>ance ( ! "w is spoil$4 ,! ?reads %\ld 9 all cases be tight5$ suffici5tly to give ! necess>y firm twi/ to ! l9e4 ,to obta9 ! te*nique ( _m ( ^! ins]tion /it*es x is only ne$ful to practise !m = a few m9utes on a piece ( mat]ial z a prelim9>y to ! actual work+ ( !m4 ,?is enables ! work] to see :at size ( ?read to use1 & x gives h] ! opportunity ( try+ & comp>+ v>i\s col\rs )\t ! irksome task ( unpick+4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bg4 ,fig4 #bg is work$ mu* ! same z ,russian /it* 7,fig4 #be71 except t x is work$ clos] & ! ?read pick$ up by ! po9t ( ! ne$le be=e x is ins]t$ on ! opposite side--?is twi/$ faggot /it* is really a comb9ation ( ! ve9+ & faggot ins]tion & is us$ = ! same purposes4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,ix4 ,,?ree ,,coll>s4 7,see page #afb47 ,antique ,seam 7,fig4 #bh74--;,9 e>li] times1 :5 ! l95s 7 wov5 9 n>r[] wid?s1 ! seams 7 always connect$ 9 a m int]e/+ me?od ?an at ! pres5t day1 :51 if a flat seam is want$1 ! selv$ges are inv>iably ov]sewn4 ,"o ( ! old] me?ods is %[n 9 ,fig4 #bh4 ,x makes a firm1 flat & decorative r[ ( /it*+4 ,= ! jo9+ ( selv$ges ( b$-l95 a n>r[ slant+ /it* sewn 9 :ite 0 us$2 = m decorative purposes a col\r$ & a l>g] /raight /it* 0 us$1 z ,fig4 #bi4 ,to "w1 lay ! two selv$ges p>allel to ea* o!r & tack or p9 !m q flat4 ,beg9 on ! left side & ins]t ! ne$le f bel[ on ! "r & left sides alt]nately2 9 ?is way ! ?reads cross ea* o!r betwe5 ! selv$ges4 ,9 connect+ a v ?9 mat]ial 9 ?is way x makes a good f9i%4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bh4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bi4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bi;,a4 ,fig4 #bi gives an effective /it* = a decorative jo9+ ( two edges4 ,x may be appli$ to b&s1 cu%ion cov]s & h\sehold embroid]ies g5]ally4 ,to "w3--,prep>e ! seams by plac+ ! two selv$ges flat on to a /iff f\ndation1 say qu>t] ( an in* ap>t2 secure ! ?read on ! left upp] edge2 ins]t ! ne$le at ! l[] edge a little to ! "r2 pull ?r\gh ) ! ?read to ! "r ( ! ne$le2 make a little /it*1 z ,fig4 #bi2 pull ?r\gh ) ! ?read "u ! ne$le4 ,?is makes a good firm ins]tion2 a ?ick twi/$ ?read is ! mo/ suitable4 ,fig4 #bi %[s ! ins]tion r widely spac$4 ,plate ,,xii4 %[s ?is /it* work$ 9 wool1 :]e x is appli$ to ! edges ( braids1 :i* =m ! f\ndation = a useful coll>4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cj4 ,a ,useful ,edg+4--,fig4 #cj gives a knott$ loop /it* :i* is aga9 borr[$ f ! _m useful lace /it*es4 ,x is an edg+ :i* may be work$ 9 silks1 flax1 cotton1 ?reads1 or wools4 ,9 ,plate ,,xii4 x =ms ! f9i% to ! braid coll>1 :]e x is work$ 9 ?ick cotton ?read4 ,?is loop /it* makes a *>m+ ins]tion if work$ on to ! edges ( any suitable mat]ial--n>r[ ribbon or hat /raws4 ,! work+ ( ! /it* is cle>ly %[n 9 ,fig4 #cj4 ,! two edges are jo9$ ) an int]lac+ /it* ( a contra/+ col\r1 ) raffia1 cord1 or n>r[ ribbon4 ,b&s ( hat /raw c\ld be jo9$ 9 ?is way & made up into delightful light & economical summ] hats4 ,! %ape c\ld be !n plac$ ov] a f\ndation ( wire & ! brim /iff5$ ) wire1 button-hol$ on to ! /raw ) a silk1 flax1 or raffia ?read4 ,a ,coll> ( ,braid4--,plate ,,xii4 illu/rates an int]e/+ piece ( "w1 built up ( oddm5ts ( skirt braid1 silv] t9sel1 braid1 silks & wools4 ,v *>m+ dress & coat fitm5ts may be made 9 ?is way1 & all sorts ( scraps & rema9d]s ( trimm+s & braids1 silk pat*es & patt]ns may be utilis$4 ,! con/ruction is v simple4 ,! be/ way to set ab\t ! mak+ ( ^! braid coll>s1 cuffs1 or b&s is to cut out ! desir$ %ape--! exact size want$4 ,! patt]n is !n plac$ on to a piece ( glaz$ calico & ! outl9e trac$ firmly ^u x4 ,a /ill m direct me?od is to cut out ! patt]n 9 /iff br[n pap] & utilise x z ! f\ndation on :i* to tack ! braids4 ,c>e mu/ be tak5 to h ! %ape correct be=e />t+ to "w ) ! mat]ials4 ,?is be+ assur$1 arrange a braid or cross-b> ( mat]ial r\nd ! out] "p2 tack x at ! out] edge ) bright-col\r$ wool on to ! pap] f\ndation1 !n adju/ ! b>s & panels1 all[+ ! ends ( ! braids to slip "u ! out] braid4 ,circles or squ>es ( ribbon1 velvet1 or t9sel1 plac$ 9 ! mo/ important p>ts & ti$ to ! out] edges ) l9es ( braid or ribbon1 :i*1 9 turn1 might be connect$ ) op5 /it*]y1 =k-p9 ins]tion 7,fig4 #gc71 or "s small beads1 are v pretty4 ,all give scope = individual ta/e & +5uity 9 col\r & mat]ial4 ,if ! coll> is on ! r\nd1 ! out] b&s mu/ be flexible1 9 ord] to take ! curve nicely4 ,! coll> 9 ! illu/ration has = ! out] r[ a skirt braid ( a s(t dove grey4 ,x is tack$ 9 place ) a l9e ( c\*+ 9 royal blue wool1 sewn on ) a silk ?read--reel twi/ is v good--( ! same col\r2 ! /ripes ( cream-col\r$ braid are ornam5t$ ) coral-col\r$ wool 9 long /it*es1 tack$ d[n ! c5tre to =m a po9t4 ,! small] panels h be5 plac$ 9 position previ\sly2 !y consi/ ( *equ]$ silk ribbon 9 grey & heliotrope4 ,all ! %ort l9es are connect$ ) ,russian /it* work$ 9 coral wool1 ! b&s ( cream braid be+ laid on ov] !m & !n sewn d[n2 f9ally ! inn] edge ( ! bord] is c\*$ d[n4 ,! edges are n[ all tuck$ out ( sight1 ! br[n pap] is cut away f ! back1 all ends1 edges & tags are secur$ & made neat ) t9y ov]ca/+ /it*es1 & ! coll> may ei!r be l9$ or sewn on 9 place )\t l9+1 z ! case may be4 ,x is (t5 necess>y to conf9e ! cut edges ( ! broad braid1 9 ord] to prev5t !m f spread+1 by w9d+ a ?read r\nd & ty+ x j above ! "p to be cut--?is (t5 saves "t & tr\ble 9 ! long run4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,x4 ,a ,,tea-,,cosy ,,cov] 7,see p4 #aab47 ,,*apt] ,x ,,ins]tions ,,9 ,,ne$le-,,weav+--,,po9t ,,de ,r,,prise--,,int]lac+ ,,& ,,op5work ,,backgr\nd 8,!re %e weaves1 by night & day1 ,a magic web ) col\rs gay40 ,a ,*equ]$ ,patt]n 7,fig4 #ca74--;,*equ]$ patt]ns look well 9 ne$le-weav+4 ,a numb] ( col\rs may be introduc$ if ! spac+ p]mits4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ca4 ,fig4 #ca %[s a diagram ( ne$le-weav+ :i* gives ! me?od ( work+ a *equ]$ patt]n on ! upright or w>p ?reads4 ,prep>e ! b> or b& by remov+ ! weak] 7weft7 ?reads2 a little decorative l9e ( /it*]y may !n be add$ by hem/it*+1 button-hol+1 or h]r+-bon+ ! edges2 ?is adds a f9i% & gr\ps ! w>p ?reads into clu/]s :i* is an advantage--x saves tr\ble :5 ! actual weav+ beg9s by keep+ ! weft ?reads 9 place2 cross /it* & ov]sew+ are useful /it*es = ! same purpose4 ,! work] %\ld be c>eful to gr\p ! /r&s equally by divid+ !m into clu/]s ( ?ree1 f\r1 or six ?reads4 ,9 ,fig4 #ca ! upp] r[ is hem/it*$ loosely1 to %[ ! me?od 7see also ,fig4 #cd1 p4 #aad1 = hem/it*+74 ,! l[] edge ( ! diagram is n hem/it*$2 if ! ?reads are wov5 9 closely x is n always necess>y to d s1 al?\gh a l9e ( /it*]y is an improvem5t--x s(t5s ! edge & adds to ! appe>ance ( ! weav+ 7see ,*apt] ,v474 ,me?od ( work+ ,fig4 #ca3--,)draw ! ?reads ( ! mat]ial = ?ree-qu>t]s ( an in* wide1 & ( ! desir$ l5g?2 cut ! weft ?reads at "o end & ! correspond+ ?reads at ! opposite end4 ,if ! b> is long1 correctness ( l9e may be ensur$ by pull+ & tight5+ a s+le ?read on ! upp] & l[] edges--^! w indicate ! exact spot = cutt+ !m )\t risk ( mi/ake4 ,take a fairly long ?read ( wool & a blunt-po9t$ tape/ry ne$le2 a loose b regul>ly-wov5 canvas is ! be/ mat]ial to "w on to beg9 )1 & wool or flax ?reads give ! be/ results4 ,! ?reads are easily se5 & c\nt$1 & !re is n ! same *ance ( _! be+ dragg$ or ov]-tight5$4 ,secure ! ?read by runn+ a few /it*es on ! "u side2 br+ ! ne$le up betwe5 two gr\ps ( ?reads2 pass x alt]nately ov] "o gr\p & "u ! o!r until a piece ! size ( ! *equ] want$ has be5 fill$ 94 ,z ! ne$le passes to & fro x %\ld press d[n ea* r[ ( weav+ closely toge!r2 ?is has ! same effect z ! 8comb0 :i* ! weav] uses to press d[n ! weft ?reads ( 8 fabric4 ,! fir/ block be+ f9i%$1 pass to ! next two gr\ps by c>ry+ ! ne$le ov] & "u z be=e1 & press+ d[n ea* r[ ) ! ne$le2 ! second compact mass w !n be wov5 z 9 ! diagram4 ,to rea* ! next block1 slip ! ne$le d[n ! back ( ! second *equ]2 ?is w br+ x into position to "w ! l[] block4 ,cont9ue 9 ?is way to ! end ( ! r[1 always pass+ ! ne$le--at ! back--?r\gh ! gr\p ( wov5 ?reads to get into position = ! next block4 ,rev]sible ,ne$le-weav+4--,^! *equ]s may be work$ 9 slant+ r[s1 or !y may =m a v&yke patt]n1 asc5d+ & desc5d+ 9 a s]ies ( little /eps2 ! ,v-%ap$ spaces betwe5 at top & bottom ( ! l9e may be fill$ 9 ) ano!r patt]n or ) r[s ( *equ]s 9 a contra/+ col\r4 ,bo? sides ( ! patt]ns are alike1 & :5 ! beg9n+s & f9i%+s ( ?reads are neatly done x may be rev]sible4 ,?is is "o diff]5ce betwe5 ne$le-weav+ & tape/ry-weav+2 9 ! latt] ! "w is done ) ! wrong side or back ( ! patt]n upp]mo/2 x %[s ! />t+ & fa/5+ (f ( ?reads1 z well z ! pass+ ( ?reads f "o "p to ano!r1 all ( :i* makes ! "o side unpres5table4 ,ano!r ,patt]n4--,"s simple ins]tions may be work$ by v>y+1 slightly1 ! arrangem5t ( ! gr\ps4 ,beg9 z 9 ,fig4 #ca1 b weave ov] ?ree gr\ps ( ?reads in/ead ( two2 hav+ arriv$ at ! c5tre1 c>ry on weav+ ov] two m gr\ps to ! "r & include ! la/ gr\p ( ! block j d>n$1 to =m ! beg9n+ ( ! new block4 ,by repeat+ ^! gr\ps ( ?ree alt]nately at ! top & at ! foot1 always us+ ! la/ ( ! previ\sly d>n$ block z ! fir/ ( ! next1 a pretty little patt]n is =m$--a c5tral clu/] ( ?reads is left betwe5 ea* block1 :i* may aft]w>ds be ov]sewn ) a contra/+ col\r1 or left ) ! w>p ?reads ( ! mat]ial expos$4 ,a v op5 & p>ticul>ly effective ins]tion = a hem is made by work+ ov] two gr\ps ( f\r ?reads ea*--?ree or six /r&s ( ?read 9 ea* clu/] if pref]r$4 ,beg9 exactly z 9 ,fig4 #ca1 at ! left l[] corn]1 & weave to ! c5tre2 !n take 9 "o m clu/] & weave 9 ) x ! la/ "o ( ! previ\s block2 "w to ! top2 slip ! ?read d[n to ! c5tre2 weave ov] two clu/]s1 add+ "o ( ^? previ\sly wov5 ) ano!r gr\p2 cont9ue 9 ?is way to ! end4 ,by add+ a new clu/] to ! "o already 9 use ! ?reads are pull$ fur!r ap>t1 & a wid] op5+ betwe5 ! gr\ps is ! result4 ,) ^! few sugge/ions1 ! work] w f9d t %e c arrange & v>y ^! ins]tions to suit h] mat]ial & h] own ta/e4 ,filet ,backgr\nd4--,small squ>es1 ovals1 circles1 or inde$ any %ap$ space may be fill$ 9 ) a net or filet backgr\nd1 !n d>n$ 9 ) a simple patt]n4 ,! usual way ( op5+ a squ>e or oval 7,plate ,x47 is to button-hole ! =m r\nd ! outside1 !n turn ! "w on to ! wrong side & cut ! horizontal ?reads at ! edge--ne> ! button-hol+2 draw & cut aga9 at ! opposite side ^! same ?reads4 ,! :ole ( ! space is cut & divid$ up2 a b> ( ?reads is left betwe5 ea* ( ! op5 spaces1 always leav+ ! same numb] ( ?reads betwe5 ea* ?ree or f\r1 & cut & draw ! next ?ree or f\r4 ,:5 ! horizontal ?reads are cut & drawn1 cut ! v]tical ones 9 ! same way2 :5 ^! are f9i%$1 beg9 to ov]sew ea* l9e1 ) "o /it* into ea* hole backw>ds & =w>ds1 until ea* l9e1 horizontal & v]tical1 is ov]sewn4 ,c>e mu/ be tak5 to make all ov]sewn /it*es lie ! same way4 ,note--! prep>ation ( ! backgr\nd is done on ! wrong side4 ,little geometrical %apes & patt]ns may n[ be d>n$ 94 ,z said above1 ! numb] ( ?reads left 9 betwe5 ^! op5 spaces may v>y2 ! few] !re are1 ! m op5 ! squ>es w be4 ,! result ( ?is cutt+ & pull+ ( ?reads is a net backgr\nd :i* c be work$ 9 _m diff]5t ways4 ,! usual me?od is to ov]sew all ! horizontal l9es fir/1 tak+ c>e to let ! /it*es lie ! same way 9 ea* r[2 turn ! "w half r\nd to ov]sew ! rema9+ l9es 9 ! same way4 ,!re is ano!r way ( mak+ an op5 backgr\nd :i* might comm5d itself to ^? :o are av]se to remov+ ! ?reads1 t is1 by cutt+ ! mat]ial :i* =ms ! backgr\nd into n>r[ /rips & ov]sew+ ! b>s4 ,x %\ld be m>k$ (f 9 d\ble horizontal l9es r less ?an an eigh? ( an in* ap>t2 place ^! d\ble l9es at regul> int]vals ab\t half an in* ap>t2 rule !m 9 *alk or p5cil1 !n m>k (f ! half-in* spaces into v]tical l9es an eigh? ( an in* ap>t2 ^! v]tical l9es are !n cut two or ?ree at a "t ) a %>p pair ( scissors & ov]sewn "o by "o 9 r[s1 ov]seam+ ! upp] & l[] horizontal b>s by ! way4 ,v *>m+ ne$le-wov5 b&s c be arrang$ = diff]5t purposes by button-hol+ squ>es or oblongs1 cutt+ & )draw+ f\r ?reads ea* way & leav+ eight betwe54 ,:5 a squ>e is button-hol$--) tw5ty-eight v]tical & horizontal ?reads 9 ! enclosure--!re w be f\r solid squ>es connect+ n9e op5 ones1 t is1 "o op5 squ>e 9 ! c5tre ) ! f\r solid squ>es at ea* corn]1 & ! op5 ones surr\nd+ !m4 ,ea* solid squ>e has eight s+le ?reads surr\nd+ x2 divide ^! into two gr\ps by int]weav+ f\r ?reads "u two & ov] two4 ,:5 f9i%$1 !re w be two wov5 b>s connect+ ea* side ( ! small squ>es ) ea* o!r & ) ! out] button-hol$ squ>e4 ,^! wov5 b>s c\ld occur at regul> int]vals among ! m solid ne$le-wov5 portions4 ,_m v *>m+ ?+s may be made 9 ?is way ) wov5 ?reads4 ,^! primitive patt]ns c be work$ ) ease 9 su* v>i$ =ms1 alone or z adjuncts to embroid]y 7,plate ,,vi471 t an inv5tive ne$le-woman c ornam5t 9 ri* col\rs1 or )\t ! aid ( col\r1 _m int]e/+ pieces ( "w1 provid$ %e takes c>e to weave regul>ly & keeps h] design simple & suit$ to ! mat]ial4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cb4 8,po9t de ,rprise0 or ,d>n+ ,/it*4--,fig4 #cb %[s an ins]tion work$ on a f\ndation or trellis4 ,?is /it*1 :i* may be us$ z a fill+ = op5 spaces or = ! decoration & jo9+ ( two edges1 is an int]e/+ "o1 & mo/ effective :5 work$4 ,9 cottons1 wools1 or silks x c\ld be appli$ to _m diff]5t purposes q suitably2 work$ on l95 ) silk or flax ?reads1 x might provide a da9ty ins]tion = "s article ( p]sonal we>2 work$ 9 wool1 x c\ld decorate simply coll>s1 cuffs & b&s = a dress or jump] suit4 ,fig4 #cb gives m]ely "o =m ) ! me?od ( weav+1 b !re are _m o!rs to :i* ! wov5 pyramid is appli$4 ,x is mu* quick] & simpl] 9 execution ?an ! button-hole pyramid1 :i* is firm] b mu* m t$i\s to "w--! =m]1 too1 looks well 9 wools & ?ick ?reads1 :ile ! latt] requires lace ?read4 ,wov5 pyramids are frequ5tly us$ by po9t lace work]s2 ?is is call$ by !m 8po9t de rprise10 & appli$ to ! fill+s ( circles & leaf %apes :]e ! little cone-l =ms "w 9 v appropriately4 ,! f\ndation ( ,fig4 #cb is a d\ble l9e ( faggot+ 9 ,russian /it*2 a s+le l9e is work$ fir/2 ! /it*es are tak5 widely ap>t1 !n a second r[ is work$ betwe5 ! spaces ( ! o!r1 s t a s]ies ( little diamond-%ap$ spaces are =m$ z 9 ,fig4 #be4 ,beg9 at ! edge ( ! braid & weave ! pyramid f ! base s t ! po9ts may meet at ! c5tre2 be c>eful to weave an equal numb] ( ?reads into ea* cone-l %ape1 or !y w v>y 9 size4 ,pyramid ,ins]tion4--,an ins]tion ( alt]nate pyramids1 ) ! bases at ! c5tre1 is m op5 & does n take s long to "w4 ,make a f\ndation ( faggot /it*1 a s+le r[ ?is "t1 !n c>ry ! ?read to ! po9t ( "o ( ^? /it*es & weave ov] two ?reads to ! c5tre4 ,z ^! little cones %\ld always be work$ f ! po9t1 c>ry ! ?read to ! top ( ! braid by ov]ca/+ ! faggot ?read2 weave aga9 t[>ds ! c5tre2 :5 f9i%$1 ! bases ( ! pyramids w =m a c5tral l9e4 ,an equally simple ins]tion & q z effective is to "w ! pyramids 9 button-hole /it* on to ea* faggot ?read4 ,aft] =m+ ! f\ndation /it*es--! trellis--beg9 at ! po9t z be=e1 & "w two button-hole /it*es on ea* side be=e cross+ ov] to ! o!r side2 o!rwise x is work$ exactly z ! =m] patt]n detail$ above4 ,two r[s ( faggot /it* may be us$ = ! f\ndation ( q a numb] ( diff]5t wov5 patt]ns4 ,little rosettes or :eels are =m$ by five ?reads2 at ! junction ( ! /it*es--at ! c5tre ( ! space--are f\r ?reads2 add ano!r by c>ry+ a c5tral ?read to ! fir/ gr\p2 "w ! rosettes ov] ! five ?reads 9 a simil> mann] to ,fig4 #ed1 weav+ ! ?reads 9 & out2 :5 f9i%$1 slip ! ne$le "u ! f9i%$ rosette to ! next int]section ( ! /it*es & "w ! second rosette & s on4 ,descriptions are always t$i\s to foll[--! be/ way is = "o to "w ) ne$le & ?read :ile ano!r reads ! directions al\d4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xi4 ,a ,,nightdress ,,case 7,see p4 #abh47 ,int]lac+ ,/it* 7,fig4 ,p1 ,plate ,,ii474--,?is int]e/+ ins]tion /it* is "o :i* w well repay ! work] = h] tr\ble 9 ma/]+ x4 ,al?\gh n a complicat$ /it*1 !re are little po9ts to be not$ 9 ! lay+ ( ! f\ndation ?reads :i*1 if omitt$1 prev5t ! int]lac+ ?reads f work+ 9 prop]ly4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cc4 ,fig4 #cc %[s a diagram ) ! me?od ( lay+ ! f\ndation /it*es3--,"o r[ is work$ ov] ! o!r2 ?is lattice "w supports ! int]lac+ ?reads1 :i* also require two r[s to "w !m4 ,fig4 ,p %[s ! ins]tion complet$4 ,at a casual glance1 ,fig4 #cc appe>s to consi/ ( two r[s ( h]r+-bone /it*1 ! "o sup]impos$ ^u ! o!r2 b if a %ort l9e ( h]r+-bon+ is work$ & comp>$ ) ! diagram ! diff]5ce w be not$ at once4 ,9 work+ ! f\ndation1 let ! ?reads lie loosely on ! surface to all[ = ! int]lac+ ?reads4 ,me?od3--,secure ! ?read at ! left l[] l9e2 take a %ort horizontal /it*1 ?ree-qu>t]s ( an in* to ! "r on ! upp] l9e4 ,note--place ! ?read "u ! ne$le :5 draw+ ! /it* ?r\gh2 ?is keeps ! work+ ?read "u ! diagonal /it* j =m$4 ,cross to ! l[] l9e1 & ?ree-qu>t]s ( an in* fur!r on take a horizontal /it*1 b ?is "t ! ?read is n kept "u ! ne$le1 z x comes out on top & lies ov] ! la/ diagonal4 ,proce$ 9 ?is way until ! end ( ! r[ is f9i%$1 !n comp>e c>efully ) ! diagram4 ,make sure be=e />t+ ! second r[ t all ! diagonal /it*es beg9n+ at ! left ( ! upp] r[ pass "u ^? cross+ f "r to left2 ?is is a*iev$1 z said above1 by keep+ ! ?read "u ! ne$le on ! upp] r[4 ,! fir/ r[ ( ! lattice be+ f9i%$1 />t at ! left ( ! upp] l9e & "w 9 ! same way z be=e2 cross to ! l[] l9e1 & take ! horizontal /it* exactly b5ea? t ( ! previ\s r[2 !n slip ! eye ( ! ne$le "u ! ?read ( ! diagonal /it* & take ! horizontal /it* on ! upp] l9e ) ! ?read "u ! ne$le4 ,work+ 9 ?is way1 little diamond-%ap$ spaces are =m$4 ,) ! completion ( ! second r[1 x w be se5 t ! /it*es are all int]lac$ ov] & "u ea* o!r ) ! utmo/ regul>ity4 ,= ! int]-?read+ ( ! patt]n1 take a long ?read & a blunt-po9t$ ne$le2 ! ?read only ent]s ! mat]ial at ! />t+ & f9i%+ ( ! "w4 ,secure ! ?read at ! left 9 ! middle ( ! space betwe5 ! upp] & ! l[] l9es2 if an op5 ins]tion1 x mu/ be secur$ at ! top4 ,9 ,fig4 #cc1 ! ?9 dott$ l9e repres5ts ! int]lac+ ?read1 :i* passes ov] & "u ! little crosses on ! upp] l9e & d[n to ! cross+ at ! c5tre2 ?us ! fir/ r[ ( int]lac+ ?reads are all work$ on ! upp] half ( ! f\ndation /it*es4 ,:5 ! end ( ! l9e is rea*$1 turn ! ?read r\nd ! la/ c5tral cross & return1 int]lac+ ! ?reads on ! l[] half ( ! h]r+-bone f\ndation4 ,note1 9 pass+ to ! c5tre ( ! l9e1 t ! ?reads int]lace regul>ly ) ^? ( ! upp] r[1 z !y mu/ pass to ! upp] side ( ! c5tral crosses4 ,by ?is "t x w be se5 h[ beautifully ^! ?reads fit into "o ano!r1 b %\ld any little mi/ake h occurr$ 9 ! f\ndation /it*es--! support+ lattice "w--! equal & regul> int]-?read+ w be f\nd impossible4 ,! ?read mu/ be *os5 to suit ! size ( /it*--! f\ndation ?reads are practically cov]$4 ,9 ,fig4 ,p !y are %[n r too cle>ly at ! edges2 also 9 ,fig4 #cc ! int]lac+ ?read is n 9 proportion to ! size ( ! lattice "w1 b a little practice w soon %[ ! work] ! size ( ?read suitable = a bord]2 a half-in* bord] requires a good /\t ?read to fill ! space--too ?9 a ?read w make ! ins]tion r poor 9 appe>ance1 :ile too ?ick a ?read w make ! int]lac+ difficult to manipulate4 ,?is ins]tion looks well ) all types ( ?reads1 !re=e x c be us$ = _m purposes4 ,= mak+ decorative hems = h\sehold l95 x is mo/ useful1 & gives "o q a pleasant *ange f ! usual hem/it*2 x is also m practical1 because mu* m durable4 ,no ?reads are )drawn2 a s+le fold ( ! mat]ial turn$ ov] to ! front surface is ! prelim9>y2 ?is is firmly secur$ by ! two l9es ( h]r+-bone /it*4 ,l>ge decorative initials c\ld be work$ ) ! same /it*2 plac$ 9 ! c5tre j bel[ ! hem1 !y w\ld look v well--x w\ld be bett] to draw ^! out on squ>$ pap] = ! fir/ trial1 "o or f\r squ>es to ea* cross1 accord+ to ! size ( ! initial want$4 ,! ins]tion c\ld be us$ = _m purposes4 ,9 "s ( ! old ,g]man l95 "w ( ! f\rte5? c5tury ?is /it* is appli$ to h\sehold l95--9 geometrical patt]ns to bord]s1 ins]tions & corn]s1 :]e x looks v appropriate2 !y are work$ ) :ite ?read on :ite l951 b !re is no reason :y !y %\ld n be embroid]$ on a col\r$ l95--blue w\ld look v effective work$ 9 :ite ?reads or vice v]s4 ,at a lat] date1 "s ( ! ,ea/]n c\ntries adapt$ ?is /it* to _! own type ( "w & design1 conv5tional fl[]s be+ c>ri$ out ) admirable effect 9 col\r$ silks4 ,! work] w\ld f9d ?is adaptation r difficult unless %e _h done a fair am\nt ( l9e "w4 ,cosy ,cov]4--,plate ,x4 illu/rates a piece ( "w suitable = ev]yday use4 ,x is a wa%able cosy slip work$ 9 :ite l95 ) a patt]n 9 braid4 ,9 ?is example ! braid is flexible en\gh to take ! curves ( ! design easily2 x is tack$ on1 z previ\sly describ$ 9 ! nightdress case 7,plate ,,xi471 on ! out] edges1 & ga!r$ up ) t9y ov]sewn /it*es on ! inn]1 to make ! curves lie nicely4 ,! design is v simple2 x is made up ) ,fr5* braid 9 v>y+ l5g?s =m$ into curves at ! corn]s2 ! gr\nd is ( :ite l954 ,! braid is sewn on 9 blue cotton ) a small button-hole /it*2 ! little daisies ( loop /it* & ! surface fill+ ( ! c5tre are also 9 col\r4 ,! op5 web 9 ! c5tre is a simple lace /it* work$ 9 button-hol+4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xii4 ,,?ree ,,hat ,,b&s 7,see p4 #abi47 ,me?od3--,cut away ! l95 7see description1 ,plate ,x472 "w r\nd ! op5+ a r[ ( button-hole /it* n too closely set1 !n "w t5 loose loops simil> to ,fig4 #ed4 ,cat* ! la/ loop ( ! circle into ! fir/ to jo92 !n on ! la/-=m$ loop "w six button-hole /it*es2 pass ! next loop2 "w six button-hole /it*es aga9 into ! foll[+ loop--! ?ird2 proce$ 9 ?is way to ! end ( ! r[4 ,"w on 9 cont9u\s r[s until ! c5tre is rea*$2 ea* gr\p ( pyramids mu/ h "o /it* less 9 ea* r[ z ! circle becomes small]4 ,f9ally1 at ! apex1 ! ?read is twi/$ once r\nd ea* loop2 c>ry ! ?read to ! edge ( ! mat]ial by ov]seam+ ! edge ( ! fir/ pyramid2 f9i% x (f on ! back ( ! l954 ,! squ>e me% = ! op5-"w is prep>$ z describ$ on p4 #abg4 ,! op5-"w clu/]s ( ! backgr\nd may be gr\p$ diff]5tly f ^? 9 ! illu/ration1 :]e !y are ov]sewn horizontally & v]tically4 ,q a pretty v>iety w\ld be to "w !m 9 diagonal l9es secur+ ea* clu/] ) a knot /it*4 ,me?od3--,/>t ! ?read at a "p on ! left :]e a def9ite oblique l9e may be laid4 ,"w a /it* ) ! ?read "u ! ne$le1 ?r\gh ! /it* & tight5 ! knot2 c>ry ! ?read obliquely to ! next clu/] & repeat ! knot4 ,ano!r me?od is1 aft] prep>+ ! backgr\nd1 to fill up ! spaces ) f\r op5 loops ( button-hole /it*2 "w ea* loop into half ! clu/] ( surr\nd+ ?reads--! o!r half is us$ 9 work+ ! adjac5t squ>e2 9 o!r words1 ! op5 squ>e is fill$ 9 ) f\r little loops1 ! ne$le be+ pass$ ?r\gh ! fir/ loop to jo9 x ) ! la/ be=e pass+ on to ! next squ>e1 & ! clu/]s ( loose w>p & weft ?reads are divid$ & pull$ ap>t by ! loops1 leav+ a little oval-%ap$ op5+4 ,! edges ( ! cosy are work$ r\nd ) loops 7see ,fig4 #eg74 ,^! f9i% ! sides & s]ve z a means ( lac+ ! two halves toge!r4 ,?is mann] ( f9i%+ makes = simplicity 9 ! wa%+ & iron+4 ,,*apt] ,,xi ,,fr+es ,,& ,,tassels--,,h&-,,made ,,braids--,,knots ,,& ,,picots 8,& bid !m t !y make !m fr+es 9 ! bord]s ( _! g>m5ts40 ,fr+es are us$ to =m an ornam5tal bord] = v>i\s articles2 !y seem to be ! mo/ natural f9i% to _m ( ! loosely-wov5 textures4 ,!y c be knott$ 9 diff]5t ways into simple or elaborate patt]ns1 or !y c be enri*$ ) gr\ps & b&s ( col\r$ ?reads or beads4 ,! mo/ simple are ^? produc$ by ! unravell+ ( ! horizontal or weft ?reads4 ,9 plann+ out a piece ( "w to be f9i%$ (f ) a fr+e1 all[ #f or #g in*es = x--or :atev] dep? is want$2 f9i% x aft] ! re/ ( ! "w has be5 complet$1 z ! fray$ edges are apt to get soil$ & untidy if unravell$ be=e4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cd4 ,to prep>e a ,fr+e4--,)draw a few ?reads at ! head ( ! space & "w a r[ ( s+le hem/it*+1 or ov]ca/ x ) l>ge /it*es4 ,!re is only a s+le ply ( mat]ial1 b ?is /it*+1 :ile giv+ firmness1 adds a decorative value & prev5ts ! loos5+ ( ! weft ?reads4 ,fig4 #cd expla9s ! me?od ( hem/it*+2 if ! /r&s or w>p ?reads look r poor & ?91 additional weight may be giv5 to ! :ole by d>n+ 9 ei!r "s ( ! weft ?reads1 :i* h be5 remov$1 or by add+ v>i\s col\r$ ones4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ce4 ,fig4 #ce %[s "o way ( add+ ?reads4 ,^! are fix$ into place mo/ easily by means ( a cro*et hook4 ,me?od3--,w9d ! ?read r\nd a piece ( c>dbo>d suffici5tly wide--t is1 almo/ twice ! dep? ( ! requir$ fr+e2 cut ! ?reads along "o edge ( ! c>dbo>d1 & ! /r&s are ready = use4 ,put ! hook into ! mat]ial ne> ! edge f beh9d2 lay ! loop ( ! d\bl$ l5g? ( ?read on ! hook & draw x ?r\gh1 !n slip ! two ends ?r\gh ?is loop & tight5 7,fig4 #ce74 ,_m pretty v>iations may be made by add+ beads or n>r[ ribbons1 tassels or knots 7,plate ,,vi474 ,^? ta/eful f9i%+ t\*es add greatly to ! appe>ance ( ! "w4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #cf4 ,knott$ ,fr+e4--,fig4 #cf has ! /r&s 9 gr\ps knott$ toge!r1 !n divid$ & knott$ aga94 ,^! knots take up a fair quantity ( ?read1 ?us ! l5g? all[$ = ! fr+e mu/ dep5d on ! numb] ( r[s ( knots1 z well z on ! co>s5ess or f95ess ( ! ?read us$4 ,! ?ick] & firm] ! texture ( ! /r&s1 ! great] ! l5g? ( ?read requir$ = ! knots4 ,! me?od ( mak+ ! knots be+ %[n 9 ! figure1 x ne$s little explanation4 ,aft] ! fir/ r[ ( knots is =m$1 ! second r[ is made up ( ! gr\ps ( ?reads hang+ f ^! knots--!y are divid$1 & half a gr\p is tak5 f ! "r & left respectively4 ,?ree or f\r r[s may be add$ 9 ?is way1 ea* succe$+ r[ ( knots com+ betwe5 ^? ( ! r[ above4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #cg4 ,a ,flat ,knot4--,fig4 #cg gives a flat knot us$ 9 fr+e-mak+ by macram work]s4 ,at "o "t 79 ! sixte5? c5tury71 prie/s' ve/m5ts 7 frequ5tly trimm$ ) ?is h&some type ( fr+e1 consi/+ *iefly ( knots gr\p$ into v>i\s patt]ns4 ,x 0 !n kn[n "u ! "n ( 8punto a gruppo02 lat] x 0 call$ macram1 f an ,arabic ^w mean+ ornam5tal fr+e or trimm+4 ,! ,g5oese us$ x = ! trimm+ ( bridal dresses4 ,^! knots c be add$ directly to a hem1 or work$ ov] a cord4 ,me?od3--,arrange ! ?read 9 gr\ps ( two d\ble /r&s1 z 9 ,fig4 #cg a2 take ! two outside /r&s1 & pass+ ! left "o "u ! middle /r&s1 & ! "r-h& "o ov] !m--^! middle /r&s mean:ile be+ held taut betwe5 ! second & ?ird f+]s--br+ ! left-h& /r& out1 z ,fig4 #cg1 & ! "r-h& /r& "u s t _! positions are rev]s$4 ,complete ! knot by cross+ ! rev]se way aga9 & tight5 to f9i%4 ,q a pretty fr+e c be made by work+ a r[ ( f\r ( ^! flat knots 9 succession ov] f\r /r&s1 "o knot bel[ ! o!r2 ! second r[ has ! knots made on f\r /r&s--two /r&s tak5 f ea* ( ! gr\ps imm$iately above--?is br+s ! knots ( ! second r[ alt]nat+ ) ^? ( ! upp] r[1 z 9 ,fig4 #cf4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ch4 ,twi/+ & ,cross+4--,fig4 #ci gives a little h&-made braid1 v useful = _m purposes1 = small head+s1 or = f9i%+s1 edges1 or seams4 ,x is a simple plait made ) f\r /r&s ( any firm ?read or n>r[ braid--! latt] is ! m suitable = embroid]y4 ,lace plaits simil> to ?is require bobb9s & a pill[1 z well z a suitable lace or l95 ?read2 b ! gimps = embroid]y c be made q nicely by fix+ ! knots to "s firm f\ndation & w9d+ ! cord1 /r+1 or braid on to a piece ( c>dbo>d4 ,! plait is done by means ( twi/+ & cross+4 ,^! t]ms are us$ 9 ! mak+ ( pill[ lace4 8,twi/+0 always means pass+ ! "r-h& /r& ov] ! left 7,fig4 #ch ,a71 & 8cross+0 means ! pass+ ( ! inn] left-h& /r& ov] ! inn] "r-h& /r& 7,fig4 #ch ,b74 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ci4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ci;,a4 ,h&-made ,gimp4--,fig4 #ci %[s ! braid 9 process4 ,ea* pair ( ?reads is twi/$ once1 !n ! inn] ?reads are cross$2 ?is is repeat$ to ! end1 c>e be+ tak5 to keep all ?reads z equal z possible4 ,fig4 #ci;,a is ! same braid ) picot edg+s4 ,^! picots may be plac$ at e second loop in/ead ( e f\r? z 9 ! figure4 ,!y are made ) ! help ( p9s fix$ into ! f\ndation2 ! outside ?read is pass$ r\nd ! p9 be=e twi/+ ) ! next /r&4 ,to make a ,lace ,pill[-,cu%ion4--,fig4 #dj is a /ill m elaborate braid1 consi/+ ( five d\ble /r&s4 ,x c\ld be m easily work$ on a cu%ion--a l>ge p9-cu%ion tilt$ aga9/ a table w\ld d1 or ! work] c\ld make a pill[-cu%ion = h]self1 su* z "s lace-mak]s use1 9 ! foll[+ way3 ,cut a piece ( firm cotton or l95 ab\t #bj or #bb in*es wide & #bb to #bd in*es long2 jo9 up ! l5g? by ! ma*9e2 hem ! two ends & run a draw+ /r+ ?r\gh !m to close ! ends4 ,cut two circles ( c>dbo>d #d or #e in*es 9 diamet]2 draw up "o end ( ! pill[ & place a circle ( c>dbo>d 9 aga9/ ! clos$ end2 fill ! cu%ion ) bran or cork--su* z is us$ = pack+ grapes--horsehair1 or sawdu/2 /uff tightly2 !n place ! o!r circle ( c>dbo>d on top & tight5 up ! second end by means ( a /rong cord run ?r\gh ! edges4 ,?is little cu%ion c be plac$ into a wood5 box or basket1 :i* is bett] to be weight$ a little to keep x /eady4 ,"s pill[s are made l a cyl9d] & fitt$ into a box1 :i* is high] at ! back ?an at ! front2 o!rs are made ) an axis :i* is fitt$ into grooves cut 9 ! side ( ! box2 ?is enables ! work] to turn ! pill[ & also all[s ! lace z x is work$ (f to fall beh9d into ! box4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #dj4 ,braid4--,to "w ,fig4 #dj1 fix on to ! cu%ion 9 a /raight l9e five l5g?s ( braid1 knott$ z 9 ,fig4 #ch4 ,me?od3--,twi/ ! fir/ & second pair once2 cross2 twi/ ! second & ?ird pair once2 cross2 twi/ ! ?ird & f\r? pair once2 cross2 twi/ ! f\r? & fif? pair once2 cross2 place a p9 at ! "r-h& edge2 twi/ ! f\r? pair once2 twi/ ! fif? pair once2 cross2 twi/ ! ?ird & f\r? pair once2 cross2 twi/ ! second & ?ird pair once2 cross2 twi/ ! fir/ & second pair once2 cross2 place a p9 at ! left-h& edge2 twi/ ! fir/ pair twice2 twi/ ! second pair once2 cross1 & repeat f3 twi/ ! second & ?ird pair once2 cross1 & s on = l5g? requir$4 ,?is braid :5 work$ ) bobb9s & a /\t l95 ?read w be excell5t = tea*+ ! me?od ( mak+ gr\nds = "s ( ! simpl] pill[ laces4 ,simple ,tassels4--,fig4 #da gives a small tassel4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #da4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #da;,a4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #da;,b4 ,me?od3--,take a piece ( c>dbo>d1 r wid] ?an ! l5g? ( ! f9i%$ tassel1 & w9d "s wool r slackly r\nd x1 twelve to tw5ty times1 accord+ to ! size & ?ickness ( ! tassel to be made4 ,take a long l>ge-ey$ ne$le ) a d\bl$ ?read2 slip x ?r\gh ! wool close to ! c>dbo>d2 pass ! ends ?r\gh ! loop & pull firmly to tight54 ,cut ! wool at ! opposite edge ( ! c>dbo>d4 ,pass ! ?read ?r\gh ! c5tre ( ! bun* ( wool & knot x two or ?ree times to =m a padd+ = ! head4 ,sometimes a wood5 bead helps to fill out ! head1 ! ne$le be+ pass$ ?r\gh x to keep x 9 place2 aft] :i* ! ?read is knott$4 ,figs4 #da & #da;,b give ! mak+ ( ! neck ( ! tassel4 ,take a ne$le ) a d\ble ?read & w9d x r\nd ! neck two or ?ree times2 pass ! ne$le ?r\gh ! loop1 !n up ! c5tre ( ! head & out at ! top--"h ano!r bead adds to ! appe>ance ( ! f9i%$ tassel--! ends s]v+ to atta* x to ! embroid]y4 ,a mu* m elaborate f9i% may be made by button-hol+ ! head ( ! tassel1 beg9n+ at ! neck & work+ 9 r[s t[>ds ! top4 ,if ! tassel is l>ge en\gh to admit ( x1 a cro*et-cov]$ top1 beg9n+ ) a *a9 & work+ upw>ds1 is v quickly made2 long *a9s end+ ) beads may f9i% ! l[] "p effectively4 ,plate ,,viii4 %[s simple tassels made 9 ?is way--^? on ,plate ,i4 are r m elaborate4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #db4 ,ne$le-made ,picots 7,fig4 #db74--,?is edg+ requires a good /\t ?read1 l951 twi/$ silk1 wool1 or f9e /r+1 accord+ to ! purpose = :i* x is requir$4 ,x may be work$ on a braid1 a cord1 or ! edge ( ! mat]ial4 ,!re is no great difficulty 9 ! work+ ( ^! picots1 b absolute regul>ity ( ! loops & knots is ess5tial--9 ord] to secure ?is1 a me%1 or if t is n to h&1 a p5cil may be us$ to keep ! loops uni=m 9 size4 ,aft] "s practice1 ! work] w probably disp5se ) a me% & use a p9 to keep ! loops 9 place :ile mak+ ! knot4 ,fig4 #db %[s ! me?od ( work+4 ,fa/5 ! ?read securely & take ! fir/ /it*1 :i* is ( ! button-hole type1 ) ! ?read "u ! ne$le2 !n slip ! ?read r\nd ! me%1 pass+ x beh9d & br++ x out ov] ! front ( x2 put ! ne$le beh9d ! loop 7see ,fig4 #db7 & twi/ ! ?read r\nd ! ne$le1 ov] & "u x2 pull ?r\gh & tight5 ! knot4 ,if a p9 is us$1 pass ! ne$le beh9d ! fir/ little loop1 !n put ! p9 into position--a qu>t] or half an in* bel[ ! edge2 pass ! ?read r\nd ! head ( x2 make a loop r\nd ! po9t ( ! ne$le & tight54 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #dc4 ,fig4 #dc %[s ! same edg+ ) an additional r[ work$ ov] a n>r[ braid--sev]al ?reads c\ld be sub/itut$ = ! braid4 ,button-hol$ ,r+s4--,button-hol$ r+s are useful4 ,!y are g5]ally made ov] a f\ndation ( s(t ?reads1 :i* s]ves ! d\ble purpose ( padd+ & /r5g!n+ !m4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #dd4 ,laces1 ,edg+s1 ,c5tral ,fill+s4--,dani% ne$le-work]s use ^! r+s a great deal z f\ndations = mak+ bo? laces1 & edg+s1 also c5tral fill+s4 ,! =m] !y apply to _! beautifully work$ embroid]ies z ins]tions or f9i%+s2 ! latt] h "s arrangem5t ( gr\p$ /it*es work$ r\nd a button-hol$ r+1 !n sewn on to ! p>ts prep>$ = !m4 ,!y use a r+ /ick1 :i* is graduat$ 9 su* a way z to enable !m to make r+s 9 sev]al sizes1 also to make any numb] 9 ! "o p>ticul> size desir$4 ,r+s are q simply made4 ,! ?read is w\nd r\nd ! /ick six to t5 times1 accord+ to ! size ( ! r+1 & a /it* or two ( button-hol+ is work$ be=e remov+ x2 !n "w r\nd ! ?reads until x is complete & f9i% by pass+ ! ne$le ?r\gh ! head ( ! fir/ /it* & slipp+ x inside--& along ! l9e ( /r5g!n+ ?reads2 cut (f neatly4 ,r+s may h pyramids work$ r\nd !m1 9 :i* case a def9ite numb] ( button-hole /it*es %\ld be made4 ,if a r+ is cov]$ ) tw5ty-eight button-hole /it*es1 f\r pyramids ( six /it*es ea* c\ld be made1 ) "o /it* betwe5 ea* pyramid2 ) ?irty /it*es1 six small] pyramids1 ) "o /it* betwe5 ea*1 c\ld be work$ 94 ,r+s c\ld be made ov] a metal or bone f\ndation :5 !y are us$ to support any weight1 z = ! draw /r+s ( a bag1 or to atta* a spla%] to a wall2 = lac+ or connect+ ! front or %\ld]s ( a jump] or *ild's frock !y c be ei!r made on ?reads or metal r+s4 ,note ! int]e/+ me?od ( apply+ r+s 9 ,plate ,,xiii42 see also ,fig4 #bc b1 :i* %[s me?od ( work+ r+s ) picots ( bullion /it*4 ,v useful inde/ructible buttons c be made ( v ?ickly padd$ small r+s 9 :i* ! /it*es practically fill up ! c5tre2 twi/$ b>s1 cross$1 %\ld be work$ at ! back = ! purpose ( atta*+ ^! buttons to ! g>m5ts :i* !y are to adorn4 ,ornam5tal ,knot 7,fig4 #de74--,knot "w1 l embroid]y & lace1 seems to h orig9at$ 9 ! ,ea/4 ,all ( ! foll[+ knots may be work$ m simply f ! diagram ?an f ! description4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #de4 ,fig4 #de is comm5c$ at ! top or foot1 :]e ! ,x is m>k$4 ,! braid is jo9$ !re "u ! curve2 x is =m$ ( "o piece ( braid1 & c make a v good c5tre = a cu%ion1 appli$ 9 a col\r$ braid1 if suffici5tly enl>g$4 ,x c\ld h a decoration )9 ! curves ( conv5tional fl[]s1 or1 on ! o!r h&1 x might be enclos$ by a n>r[ geometrical bord]4 ,x c\ld also be work$ 9 *a91 c\*+1 or ori5tal /it*es in/ead ( braid4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #df4 ,weav]'s ,knot 7,fig4 #df74--,! weav]'s knot1 us$ by all weav]s = ! jo9+ ( w>p ?reads--weft ?reads are work$ ) ! weav+--is a well-kn[n knot4 ,x is illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #df & consi/s ( two loops int]lac$2 :5 f9i%$1 "o loop has ! ends cross$ :ile ! o!r has ! two l9es ly+ p>allel4 ,x c be easily foll[$ f ! figure4 ,a simple me?od ( ty+ x is to take ! end ( ! new jo9+ ?read & =m x into a loop ) ! ?reads cross$2 note t ! %ort end is "u & po9t+ to ! left1 & ! long upp] end is po9t+ to ! "r4 ,place ?is loop betwe5 ! f+] & ! ?umb ( ! left h& & hold x upright2 take ! end ( ! work+ ?read 9 ! "r h&1 & putt+ x f beh9d up ?r\gh ! loop1 pass x r\nd betwe5 ! ?umb & ! fir/ f+]1 "u ! %ort end ( ! new ?read & ov] ! long "o1 d[n into ! upright loop aga94 ,tight5 ! ends ( bo? ?reads4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #dg4 ,! ,c>rick ,b5d 7,fig4 #dg74--,?is knot is simple & ornam5tal4 ,x c\ld be us$ q successfully = embroid]y & braid+4 ,x is us$ by sailors = ty+ haws]s4 ,to arrange ! knot take "o piece ( n>r[ braid or cord & =m x into a loop on ! table2 cross ! ends--! "u & %ort] "o po9ts t[>ds ! work]2 take ! second cord 9 ! "r h& & pass x "u ! complete curve ( ! loop 9 a diagonal direction 7see ,fig4 #dg72 pass+ !n ov] ! long & "u ! %ort end1 ent] into ! loop & pass x "u ! diagonal l9e & out ov] ! loop4 ,?is knot looks well--tight] or loos] accord+ to ! wid?--:5 plac$ at int]vals on a bord] & connect$ by l9es ( /it*es4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #dh4 ,! ,reef ,knot4--,?is knot v>ies slightly f ,fig4 #df4 ,x =ms a r neat] "o ?an ! weav]'s knot & is also m ornam5tal4 ,me?od3--,make a loop z be=e at ! end ( ! new ?read4 ,hold x upright betwe5 ! ?umb & ! fir/ f+] ( ! left h&1 b d n cross ! ends2 take ! end ( ! work+ ?read & pass x up ?r\gh ! loop f beh9d3 put x r\nd betwe5 ! ?umb & ! f+]1 "u ! two ends ( ! held ?read1 !n d[n ?r\gh ! loop aga92 draw up bo? pairs ( ?reads4 ,! reef knot1 z its "n indicates1 is us$ by sailors = ty+ ! reef po9ts ( a sail4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #di4 ,fig4 #di %[s a knot :i* may be made ( braid or ( two r[s ( cord1 on a l>g] scale1 or x may be work$ 9 *a9 /it* z a small] knot4 ,:5 made 9 n>r[ braid or cord ! second cord is lac$ ?r\gh aft] ! knot has be5 =m$ by ! fir/ cord4 ,?is knot c\ld be us$ = a bord]1 plac$ at regul> int]vals ) l9es ( cords connect+ ! "o knot ) ! next2 to fill up a corn] ! c5tral loop c\ld be made l>g]4 ,x looks well :5 work$ 9 *a9 /it* or 9 c\*$ l9es4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ej4 ,! ,*9ese ,knot 7,fig4 #ej74--,?is knot1 us$ = ! ornam5tation ( a sailor's coll>1 is made ( "o cord4 ,"o loop is made long en\gh to pass r\nd ! neck1 "u ! coll>4 ,us$ z a "p ( ! bord] design ! end loops may be made z long z requir$ to fill ! space4 ,! ,*9ese knot makes an ornam5tal fa/5+ = any?+ t might require x4 ,to make x1 />t at ! ,x2 f !re x c be easily foll[$ f ,fig4 #ej4 ,x takes ! =m ( two he>ts rev]s$ & int]lac$2 ! out] loops are =m$ 9 ! process4 ,fig4 #ea is made up ( two pieces ( braid4 ,! crosses %[ :]e ! ends disappe> "u ! curves4 ,?is knot c\ld be us$ simil>ly to ,figs4 #de & #di4 ,knots are n g5]ally us$ 9 embroid]y = ! />t+ or f9i%+ ( ?reads1 b sometimes a new ?read has to be jo9$ directly on to ! old "o1 9 :i* case a firm1 non-slipp+ knot is necess>y4 ,figs4 #df1 #dg1 #dh are all useful = jo9+ ?reads4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ea4 ,nightdress ,case 9 ,blue & ,:ite4--,plate ,,xiv4 %[s a *>m+ & useful nightdress case 9 :ite l951 embroid]$ 9 :ite & blue flax4 ,! simple int]lac+ design is laid on 9 :ite ,fr5* tape1 :i* develops into leaves at ! c5tre & corn]s1 & gives scope = a pleasant *ange 9 /it*]y4 ,! braid is fix$ 9 place on ! out] edge by a button-hole /it* work$ 9 flax ?read ov] ?ree /r&s ( blue4 ,! mat]ial is cut & turn$ 9 & button-hol$--?is gives a little rais$ edge & acc5tuates ! out] l9e2 ! inn] edge is m>k$ out by a l9e ( back /it*+ 7,fig4 #ac71 & ,fr5* knots work$ 9 blue 7,fig4 #bb74 ,! spaces betwe5 ! int]lac+ braids are work$ 9 a filet or net patt]n--:i* is simply work$ b r t$i\s on acc\nt ( ! necess>y prep>ation4 ,me?od3--,remove f\r v]tical ?reads & leave f\r ( ! l952 repeat ?is )9 ! space2 !n remove f\r horizontal ?reads & leave f\r2 repeat4 ,^! little gr\ps ( ?reads are kept closely toge!r by means ( ov]ca/+ /it*es--:i* %\ld be done ) a v f9e ?read--work$ 9 r[s ov] ! w>p ?reads1 !n ov] ! weft4 ,! l95 9 ! c5tre ( ! leaf =ms at ! c5tre & corn]s %\ld be cut1 turn$ "u ! braid & button-hol$1 z describ$ 9 ,plate ,,xiv4 ,! out] ones are fill$ 9 ) button-hol$ b>s1 :i* may be work$ z describ$ 9 ,fig4 #bd1 or !y may be ins]t$ aft] ! button-hole edge is f9i%$1 by lay+ two or ?ree /r&s1 button-hol+ !m1 & ov]ca/+ ?ree or f\r /it*es along ! edge to c>ry ! ne$le into position = ! next b>4 ,! op5+ 9 ! c5tre is work$ 9 pyramids & b>s1 alt]nately 7see description ( ,plate ,,xiv474 ,x w be se5 t ! two out] leaves ( ! c5tre gr\p are work$ 9 a weav+ /it* :i* gives ! appe>ance ( mid-rib & ve9s4 ,me?od3--,aft] ! inn] edge is button-hol$1 c>ry six ?reads to & fro f po9t to base to =m ! f\ndation2 !n weave by pass+ ! ?read ov] ?ree & "u ?ree /r&s until ! po9t = ! fir/ ve9 is rea*$4 ,press ! ?reads closely toge!r ) ! ne$le to make ! l9e solid2 !n c>ry ! work+ ?read across to ! edge to & fro & back to ! edge2 weave into & out ( ^! ?ree /r&s until ! mid-rib is rea*$ aga92 weave a c\ple ( ?reads into ! c5tre rib1 !n =m ! ve9 on ! opposite side 9 ! same way1 & proce$ 9 ?is way until ! base is rea*$4 ,! /it* mu/ be v ev5ly work$ & well press$ up by ! ne$le cont9u\sly to get ! "r effect4 ,! inn] leaves are work$ ) a r[ ( op5 button-hol+1 aft] :i* button-hol$ loops 7,fig4 #ei7 & pyramids are arrang$ to fill up ! space4 ,! braid-l appe>ance ( ! inn] bord] is obta9$ by work+ a r[ ( h]r+-bone /it* to =m a f\ndation2 a long flax ?read is !n int]lac$ z %[n 9 ,fig4 #be4 ,see also bord] to ,plate ,,xiv4 ,?is int]lac+ ?read is work$ 91 r[ aft] r[1 until ! desir$ ?ickness has be5 got4 ,9 ,plate ,,xi4 ! f\ndation /it* is 9 blue & ! int]lac+ 9 :ite flax ?read--! little blue po9ts ( ! h]r+-bone /it* peep+ out on ei!r side give a pretty effect4 ,two r[s ( f9e *a9 /it* 7,fig4 #a7 f9i% ! da9ty bord]4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xiii4 ,a ,,bag ,,9 ,,canvas ,,& ,,wool4 7,see page #aec47 ,! out] edges foll[+ ! curves ( ! braid are work$ 9 op5 button-hol$ loops 7,fig4 #ei7 :i* 9 ,plate ,,xi4 are done ) ! ne$le2 b ?is edg+ may be done m simply1 if desir$1 ) a cro*et hook1 by =m+ a r[ ( *a9 loops1 !n cov]+ !m ) d\ble cro*et /it* 7see p4 #aeg = description74 ,! edg+ ( ne$le-made loops is1 ( c\rse1 pref]able to any o!r1 b 9 ^! days1 :5 mo/ ( ! h\sehold l95 mu/ g to ! laundry1 ^! little cro*et edg+s might q suitably be work$ directly on to little mats1 table-napk9s1 & _m o!r articles4 ,!y are quickly work$ & we> excell5tly4 ,hat ,b&s4--,! illu/ration %[s two hat b&s1 bo? ( :i* might be made 9 a col\r to g ) a hat or suit4 ,a ,fl[]$ ,hat ,b& 7,plate ,x,i,ia474--,plate ,,xiia4 consi/s ( a piece ( cotton--celtic canvas--ab\t #e in*es wide2 ! l5g? w v>y & mu/ dep5d on ! %ape & size ( ! hat4 ,to make a simil> b&1 prep>e a fr+e ab\t half an in* deep on "o side only2 turn ! fr+$ edge ov] ! pla9 "o & tack into position2 cro*et two l9es ( ins]tion 7,fig4 #fe7 9 wool or 9 any mat]ial pref]r$4 ,make ! fl[]s z 9 ,figs4 #ff & #fg2 ^? 9 ! c5tre ( ! illu/ration are made up ( ?ree sep>ately work$ fl[]s1 ! smalle/ "o is 9 silv] t9sel4 ,! l>ge fl[] gr\ps are plac$ on ! b& alt]nately ) ! small] sprigs4 ,= ! mak+ ( ! leaves see ,fig4 #fh1 p4 #afj4 ,?is b& may be made 9 a v %ort "t2 x is a v suitable hat decoration = r\gh wea!r1 z ra9 does n de/roy ei!r ! f\ndation or ! cro*et fl[]s4 ,a ,velvet ,hat ,b& ) ,cross ,/it* 7,plate ,x,i,ic474--,cross /it*1 s little us$ n[adays 9 ?is c\ntry1 except = ! m>k+ ( h\sehold l951 seems to h be5 well kn[n f a v e>ly date by all ne$le-work]s4 ,x1 & _m o!r v>ieties ( a simil> nature1 0 work$ on canvas or l95 9 patt]ns :]e ! ?reads 7 c\nt$4 ,at "o "t ^! embroid]ies 7 s *>act]i/ic ( ! v>i\s c\ntries t _! orig9 0 g5]ally recognis$ by ! patt]n & ! col\r 9 :i* !y 7 work$4 ,! ,italian cross /it*1 embroid]$ on a v f9e l951 0 mo/ly done 9 a r$di%-purple1 & frequ5tly work$ 9 a two-sid$ /it*4 ,r$1 blue & yell[ 7 ! pr$om9at+ col\rs ( ! ,slav1 ,hung>ian & ,sw$i% peasantry4 ,v l>ge pieces1 de/9$ = wall hang+s1 7 work$ 9 t5t /it* or cross /it*1 9 designs sugge/ive ( ^? us$ = tape/ry weav+4 ,^! h ev5 be5 call$ tape/ries on t acc\nt4 ,! fam\s ,bayeux tape/ry repres5ts an int]e/+ s]ies ( ev5ts ( ,engli% hi/ory f ! accession ( ,edw>d ! ,confessor to ! dea? ( ,h>old at ,ha/+s2 x is work$ 9 col\r$ wools on l95 canvas3 ?is is1 ( c\rse1 n really tape/ry2 a true tape/ry is =m$ by ! int]lac+ or weav+ ( w>p & weft ?reads by means ( a ne$le or a %uttle 7see *apt] on ne$le-weav+74 ,plate ,x,i,ic4 %[s a da9ty b& made on velvet ribbon2 ! qua9t little basket ( fl[]s 9 cross /it* on a gold-col\r$ f\ndation may be work$ q simply on to any mat]ial1 b 9 ord] to keep ! rigidity :i* is *>act]i/ic ( ! /it* x is necess>y to h a piece ( f9e canvas z a f\ndation4 ,! ribbon is tack$ on ov] x1 & ! design is work$ ov] ! two mat]ials4 ,9 ! case ( velvet ?is me?od is rev]s$1 z ! pile is always an ob/acle 9 ! way ( accurate sew+4 ,! canvas is laid on top ( ! velvet2 ! cross /it* is !n easily work$ & ! ?reads ( ! canvas are remov$1 "o by "o1 :5 ! "w is f9i%$4 ,! c5tre piece ( ,fig4 ,c is ( gold-col\r$ velvet work$ 9 ?is way4 ,x is caught d[n on ! out] edges by gold t9sel ?reads1 c\*$ closely to keep !m 9 position2 ! /rips ( orange-col\r$ velvet appli$ on ei!r side & peep+ ?r\gh ! /it*]y give a gay little t\* to ! panel1 :i* is f9i%$ (f by l9es ( gold ?read & two little gold beads4 ,! /rips ( decoration at equal int]vals are some:at simil>1 b n s elaborate4 ,no cross /it* is us$ except 9 ! front4 ,mu* may be done ) canvas /it*es1 provid$ !y are appli$ to designs :i* are treat$ 9 a conv5tional mann]4 ,! =m ( ! /it*1 occupy+ a squ>e space1 w\ld enable ! work] to make out patt]ns on squ>$ pap]2 *air seats & cu%ions c\ld be work$ v satisfactorily 9 geometrical designs4 ,baskets & bags1 work$ on canvas 9 wools1 cottons & raffia1 c be v useful2 ! canvas %\ld always be work$ ) a ?read :i* fills ! me%4 ,= f9e embroid]y x is (t5 bett] to "w x 9 a frame1 p>ticul>ly = f9e cross /it* or petit po9t1 or :5 work$ ov] two plies ( clo?--! frame prev5ts ! "u clo? f puck]+4 ,"s ( ! d>n+ /it*es1 too 7,plate ,,ii471 c\ld be appli$ successfully to bags2 if small1 !y c\ld be work$ 9 silk on a f9e-me%$ canvas4 ,cross /it* requires no description1 except t x is work$ 9 two r[s2 ?is all[s ! ?reads ( ! second r[--on ! return j\rney--to cross ov] ^? ( ! fir/4 ,a quick me?od ( fill+ a l9e is to "w a half-/it* ov] a /ret*$ ?read4 ,t5t ,/it* or ,petit ,po9t4--! f9e/ ( ! canvas /it*es--is1 l ! fir/ half ( ! cross /it*1 work$ ov] a s+le ?read ( canvas4 ,gobl9 /it* is work$ ov] "o v]tical & two horizontal /r&s4 ,a close h]r+-bone /it* looks well alt]nat+ ) r[s ( an upright /it* = a canvas-made basket 9 v>i\s col\rs4 ,!re are _m o!r canvas /it*es1 b v>ieties w be easily con/ruct$ by ! work]4 ,canvas may be b\ght ) a s+le or d\ble ?read1 ( a co>se or f9e quality4 ,a wide-me%$ canvas ( a /iff quality1 us$ = rugs1 is v satisfactory = ! mak+ up ( "w bags or baskets ) raffia4 ,a ,braid ,hat ,b& 7,plate ,x,i,ib474--,a hat b& or coll> made f rema9d]s ( braids is illu/rat$ on ,plate ,x,i,ib4 ,! orig9al 0 made z a coll> to we> ) a suit1 b x look$ s fasc9at+ z a hat b& t x 0 worn z su*4 ,x is a p]fectly /raight b& & ! illu/ration %[s v cle>ly "s ( ! ins]tion /it*es already m5tion$ 7see ,figs4 #be & #bi74 ,prep>e x 9 ! mann] already describ$ = ! braid coll> 7,plate ,,ix474 ,cut a piece ( br[n pap] to ! size want$ & tack ! braids ^u x4 ,9 ! illu/ration ?ree r[s ( black skirt braid1 ) a r[ ( black *5ille 9 ! c5tre1 g to =m ! f\ndation4 ,! upp] & c5tral r[s h a l9e ( blue braid laid ov] !m1 j close to ! *5ille4 ,jo9 ! braids ) faggot /it* on ! "o side 7,fig4 #be7 & a knot /it* 7,fig4 #bi7 on ! o!r4 ,! knot /it* is 9 turquoise blue wool1 ! faggot 9 jade gre5 ) a /rong] gre5 int]lac$4 ,! l9es ( bright blue braid are connect$ at "o side & ! edg+ 7,fig4 #cj7 is work$ ov] ! o!r4 ,?is edg+ has a ?read int]tw9$ ) x s t ! loops are connect$1 in/ead ( be+ deta*$ z 9 ,fig4 #cj4 ,:5 all ! braids are connect$ ! pap] is cut away f ! back4 ,,*apt] ,,xii ,,drawn-,,?read ,,& ,,:ite ,,"w--,,rhodian1 ,,ri*elieu ,,& ,,h$ebo 8,be ri* 9 pati5ce if ?\ 9 goods be poor40 ,_m ( ! pretty delicate lace /it*es :i* look s complicat$ :5 work$ 9 f9e lace ?reads1 on a net or cambric f\ndation1 c be us$ ) admirable effect = ! fill+ 9 ( spaces & ! cov]+ ( surfaces ( "s ( ! co>s] /uffs2 work$ 9 wools & ?ick ?reads !y lose _! filmy & lace-l appe>ance1 & c be adapt$ q nicely to ! m utilit>ian articles4 ,! arrangem5t ( ! /it*es may be *os5 to suit all k9ds ( mat]ials2 !y may be v op5 or only p>tly s1 b z a rule1 ! simpl] ^! surface /it*es are1 ! bett] !y look4 ,! ma9 idea be+ to br+ ! backgr\nd into tone ) ! re/ ( ! "w1 ! work] %\ld *oose a /it* :i* w h j ! am\nt ( col\r to give ! "r t9t or %ade to ! mat]ial4 ,diap]s are also commonly us$ to tone 9 ! backgr\nd2 s+le spots or gr\ps ( spots1 :i* may be repres5t$ by ,fr5* knots or bullion knots1 fl[] or leaf sprigs work$ 9 loop /it*1 & all simple types ( d>n+ may be requisition$ = ! purpose4 ,int]lac+ patt]ns c frequ5tly be made up ( two or m /it*es comb9$1 & may (t5 be inv5t$ on ! spur ( ! mom5t by ! int]e/$ ne$lewoman4 ,!re are endless v>ieties to be made out ( button-hole /it*1 :i* is ! f\ndation /it* ( mo/ ne$le-po9t laces 7,figs4 #ec & #aa74 ,weav+ /it*--int]weav+ ( ?reads--is ano!r ^u :i* _m laces1 ne$le-po9t & pill[1 are built up 7,figs4 #cb1 #fb1 #ag & #dj74 ,^! two are (t5 comb9$ 7,figs4 #ed & #ee72 add to !m d>n+ /it*1 bo? simple & patt]n$1 & we h got "o /ep t[>ds lace-mak+4 ,b lace-mak+ is n = ! busy woman or h\sehold]1 :o has h] day fully occupi$1 b r = ! few :o possess skill1 good pati5ce1 & _m unoccupi$ h\rs--^! mu/ belong to ! woman :o w\ld excel 9 ! art ( produc+ ! delicate fabric4 ,x is mo/ int]e/+ to trace ! developm5t ( lace2 h[ ne$le-weav+ ( ! m simple1 primitive type lat] became drawn-?read "w or op5work1 9 :i* f9] ?reads & mat]ials 7 us$2 "u ! skilful f+]s ( ! inhabitants ( ! conv5ts works ( exquisite skill 7 produc$1 ve/m5ts & hang+s1 all de/9$ to ornam5t ! *ur*4 ,9 ,engl& 9 ! sixte5? & sev5te5? c5turies lace came into g5]al use1 & 0 worn 9 great pr(usion by ,que5 ,elizabe? & h] ,c\rt4 ,f9e /eel ne$les 7 made 9 ,engl& dur+ ?is reign4 ,naturally ?is mu/ h _h "s effect on embroid]y1 b ! *ange does n appe> to h be5 noticeable4 ,l95 0 embroid]$ 9 silk 9 v>i\s col\rs1 & fur!r ornam5t$ ) drawn "w4 ,?is drawn "w 0 foll[$ by cut "w1 & f ^! we h ! orig9 ( lace4 ,^! fir/ laces 7 ( two k9ds3 ,lacis & ,cut ,"w4 ,!y 7 heavy 9 texture & suit$ to ! co/umes ( ! p]iod4 ,lacis4--,9 lacis ! backgr\nd consi/$ ( a network ( squ>$ me%es ^u l95 on :i* a patt]n 0 d>n$ 9 l95 ?read1 col\r$ silks1 or gold ?reads2 x 0 work$ usually 9 l>ge pieces1 = cov]lets & b$ hang+s1 curta9 bord]s1 & alt> clo?s4 ,cut ,"w4--,cut "w _h ! backgr\nd at c]ta9 p>ts drawn1 o!r p>ts 7 cut away & ! edges button-hol$4 ,probably ?is /it* 0 inv5t$ = ! purpose ( protect+ ^! cut edges4 ,?is d>n$ nett+ & cut "w1 po9t c\pe1 7 (t5 comb9$ on ! "o piece4 ,reticella4--,! next /ep1 ( c\rse1 0 to "w )\t a l95 f\ndation4 ,! ?reads 7 arrang$ 9 a frame1 on a f\ndation :i* 0 only !re to hold ! ?reads 9 position :ile !y 7 work$ into v>i\s patt]ns1 & fill$ ) button-hole /it*es4 ,all ! laces ( ?is p]iod 7 geometric 9 design--squ>es & circles comb9$ ) cut "w1 drawn "w & embroid]y4 ,x 0 n until ab\t ! end ( ! sev5te5? c5tury t ^! gave place to fl[+ l9es & m elaborate & complicat$ workman%ip ) a net backgr\nd4 ,"s ( ! e>li] peasant embroid]ies are s+ul>ly int]e/+4 ,!re is a p]sonality & a qua9tness ( ?\ght comb9$ ) ^? spontane\s designs1 a brightness ( col\r s in/9ctive1 & an inv5tiv5ess ( me?od s freely display$ t "o has only to see ! embroid]ies to realise _! *>m4 ,! art & craft has pass$ f g5]ation to g5]ation4 ,"s nations are di/+ui%$ by ! exquisite skill ) :i* ! "w is execut$1 o!rs by ! multiplicity ( col\rs2 ! patt]ns pr$om9at+ are mo/ly ( ! geometrical type4 ,"s ( ! sixte5? & sev5te5?-c5tury ,italian drawn "w 7punto tirato71 9 :i* ! weft or w>p ?reads 7 remov$2 punto tagliato 7cut "w71 9 :i* bo? ! weft & w>p ?reads 7 cut away1 leav+ only connect+ b>s ( ! l951 are inspir+ to ! ne$lewoman ( leisure4 ,f ^! embroid]$ & cut-l95 works reticella & ne$le-po9t laces arose4 ,h$ebo ,embroid]y4--,! embroid]y done by ! peasantry ( ,d5m>k is work$ almo/ entirely 9 button-hole /it*1 on a firm l95 gr\nd1 & ) a co>se l95 ?read4 7,! ,dani% wom5 always we> a little %ield ( metal :5 !y are work+ on ! second jo9t ( ! little f+] to protect x--! con/ant friction w\ld be apt to cut ! f+] o!rwise47 ,x is an exce$+ly durable type ( embroid]y or lace--= x p>takes ( ! nature ( bo?--& is simple to "w4 ,! designs are mo/ly ( ! geometrical type1 consi/+ ( squ>es1 circles1 ovals1 etc41 work$ 9 button-hole /it*1 arrang$ to =m bord]s1 corn]s1 or c5tres = table & b$ l954 ,by comb9+ o!r embroid]y /it*es ) ! button-hole /it* _m *>m+ pieces ( "w might be produc$ )\t mu* difficulty4 ,_m ( ! ,dani% peasantry e>n _! livelihood by means ( ?is beautiful "w4 ,plate ,,xiv4 illu/rates ! corn] = a panel = a pram or cot cov]let 9 process4 ,! c5tres ( ! =ms are all work$ 9 ! typical h$ebo "w1 :ile ! out] p>ts are fill$ 9 ) a v>iety ( /it*es4 ,to prep>e ! simple design1 make a s]ies ( squ>es & circles 9 pap] & connect !m ) d\ble l9es2 arrange & space !m symmetrically4 ,leave suffici5t space betwe5 ea* circle to all[ = ! surr\nd+ /it*]y 7see *apt] on design74 ,!n1 :5 f9i%$1 draw directly on to ! l95 ) compasses or any small r\nd %ape2 leave suffici5t mat]ial = a hem or bord]4 ,! l95 %\ld be ( a good firm quality4 ,use a sew+ ne$le--,no4 #f sci5tific %>p--& a lace ?read--,taylor's ,meckl5b]g1 ,no4 #f1 or ,knox's two-cord l95 lace ?read1 ,no4 #be or #cj1 are suitable4 ,me?od3--,to prep>e a circle1 outl9e x ) two r[s ( tack+ /it*1 keep+ mo/ ( ! ?read on ! surface by lift+ a t9y /it* ( l954 ,tack ! piece to be work$ ov] toile cire or ov] a /iff piece ( br[n pap]2 ) %>p po9t$ scissors snip a small piece out ( ! c5tre ( ! circle1 & by ! w>p & weft ?reads1 cut up almo/ to ! edge to all[ ! mat]ial to be turn$ back q close to ! edges ( ! d\ble r[ ( tack+1 ab\t six cuts to ! half-circle4 ,beg9 to "w 9 ! foll[+ way3--,secure ! ?read at ! edge ne>e/ ! work] by runn+ x along ! outl9e = a %ort di/ance--knots are nev] us$--& br+ x out on ! surface2 hold ! mat]ial s z to be able to "w t[>ds ! c5tre ( ! circle--t is1 away f ! work]2 make ! fir/ /it* by ins]t+ ! ne$le f und]nea?2 draw up ! ?read until !re is only a small loop left2 put ! ne$le ?r\gh ! loop f und]nea? & tight5 ) a j]k ( ! ?read4 ,repeat ^! /it*es1 b n too closely1 r\nd ! circle1 turn+ ! mat]ial "u z ! "w proce$s2 f9i% ) ! la/ /it* into ! fir/ loop4 ,! button-hole /it*es %\ld n be work$ ei!r too closely or too tightly--ab\t six or sev5 /it*es to a qu>t] ( an in*4 ,! inn] r[ is work$ 9 op5 button-hole loops 7see ,fig4 #eb71 "o loop into ! head ( e f\r? /it*2 ?is c be /r5g!n$ by work+ back along ! top1 "o /it* into ea* loop4 ,a close r[ ( button-hol+1 or1 if pref]r$1 ano!r r[ ( op5 button-hol+1 %\ld be suffici5t to fill ! circle4 ,c>ry ! ?read d[n ov] ! fir/ button-hole loop1 :i* is a s+le ?read1 & secure x at ! back ( ! l954 ,! c5tre fill+1 compos$ ( gr\ps ( ?ree loops & pyramids1 is work$ z 9 ,fig4 #ei4 ,! work+ ( cont9u\s pyramids is describ$ 9 connection ) ! cosy slip4 ,isolat$ pyramids are work$ 9 a slightly diff]5t mann]4 ,/>t+ f ! left1 "w sev5 button-hole /it*es into ! heads ( ! sev5 /it*es surr\nd+ ! op5 space2 ov]seam back to ! left2 "w six button-hole /it*es into ! previ\s r[2 ov]seam back2 "w five button-hole /it*es & ov]seam back1 :5 !re is only "o /it* left2 ov]seam d[n ! "r side ( ! pyramid2 ?is br+s ! ne$le into position to "w ! next gr\p ( loops4 ,:5 all pyramids & loops are f9i%$1 pick up a pyramid & a loop alt]nately ) a button-hole /it* into ea*2 ov]seam "o /it* into ea* loop1 !n d[n ! side ( ! la/-made pyramid2 fa/5 (f at ! edge4 ,! fl[]s 9 ,plate ,,xiv4 are work$ d[n ! out] edges 9 blue & :ite l95 embroid]y ?read4 ,! /it*]y us$ c be fairly well se5 f ! illu/ration4 ,! l>ge/ fl[] 9 ! corn] has a r[ ( eyelet holes1 made at equal di/ances to f9i% ! h$ebo c5tre2 ! space is fur!r ornam5t$ ) op5 button-hol+ 7,fig4 #ec1 ,plate ,x47 9 blue4 ,?is /it*+ %\ld be comm5c$ at ! c5tre2 ! f9al r[ is work$ into ! l95 & head$ by a l9e ( back /it* 9 :ite2 a l9e ( *a9 /it* 9 blue f9i%es ! fl[]4 ,! fl[] on ! left has a wav$ l9e ( closely set ,fr5* knots1 fill+ up ! space1 foll[$ by a r[ ( *a9 /it* 9 :ite4 ,! little out] spaces betwe5 ! curves are fill$ 9 ) ori5tal /it* 7,fig4 #ah72 ^! alt]nate ) ,fr5* knots work$ 9 blue4 ,! fl[] on ! "r is fill$ 9 ) loop or petal /it*1 & f9i%$ ) a d\ble r[ ( blue knots4 ,rhodes embroid]y is r diff]5t f ! o!r peasant embroid]ies4 ,x is less v>i$1 & s x is m monoton\s & less int]e/+ to "w ?an _m ( ! op5work or drawn-?read v>ieties4 ,x seems to be ( v anci5t orig91 & ?\gh x has be5 br\ght into prom95ce lately1 "u diff]5t names1 x is only a revival ( ! old =m ( ne$lework done by ! p ( ! ,isle ( ,rhodes & adapt$ to mod]n me?ods4 ,! old "w 0 done on h&-made l952 ! backgr\nd 0 work$ 9 r$ & ! design left 9 ! l951 ) an outl9e /it* to def9e x2 x 0 ?r[n /rongly into relief by ! col\r ( ! work$ backgr\nd4 8,pun* ,"w40--,9 ,am]ica ?is embroid]y is kn[n "u ! "n ( 8,pun* "w40 ,x is mu* us$ z dress trimm+s & = b$ l95 & table we>2 z ! fabric is n weak5$ by ! )drawal ( ! ?reads1 x /&s wond]fully well = articles ( daily h\sehold use4 ,! l95 %\ld be loosely-wov5 s t ! w>p & weft ?reads c be ga!r$ easily toge!r )\t puck]+ ! "w--if h&-made1 s mu* ! bett]2 a l95 work+ ?read1 /rong b f9e1 & a ?ick ne$le are requir$ s z to sep>ate ! /r&s ( ! mat]ial4 ,special ne$les may be _h f ne$lework depots at #a;d4 ea*4 ,! /rong f9e ?read draws ! clu/]s toge!r & yet does n fill up ! op5 spaces :i* are a feature ( ! backgr\nd4 ,fig4 ,m1 ,plate ,,ii41 gives an idea ( h[ ! /it* is work$1 b 9 ! figure ! work+ ?read is cotton1 & ea* gr\p ( five ?reads is gone ov] twice1 s t ! op5 spaces are r small] ?an !y w\ld be if a l95 ?read _h be5 us$4 ,:5 ! mat]ial has be5 *os5 & ! design trac$ on1 fix ! "w on to a draw+-bo>d1 & ) a rul] m>k (f ! dots 9 r[s "o-eigh? ( an in* ap>t2 note p>ticul>ly 9 />t+ ! fir/ r[ ( dots1 t !y are 9 a p]fectly /raight l9e--) ! w>p or weft ( ! l952 ?is is v important1 z ! "w w n look well unless c>e is tak5 9 m>k+ ^! dots4 ,if ! w>p & weft l9es ( ! mat]ial are easily foll[$ )\t /ra9 to ! eyes1 ^! dots ne$ n be m>k$1 b 9 _m cases x is bett] to h a guide ( "s sort1 p>ticul>ly :5 f9e l95 or musl9 is us$4 ,ano!r me?od ( m>k+ 9 ! patt]n ( dots is to use an op5 canvas z a guide2 ?is c be plac$ ov] ! l95 & fix$ ) draw+-p9s at ! top2 ! dots c be m>k$ ) a knitt+ ne$le or trac$ at regul> int]vals ?r\gh ! ?reads ( ! canvas ) a %>p-po9t$ p5cil4 ,! only difficulty 9 us+ ! canvas is t ! l9es ( w>p & weft ( ! l95 are hidd51 s c>e mu/ be tak5 to make bo? mat]ials correspond1 o!rwise ! dots w be (f ! /raight l9e & ! "w w prove mo/ unsatisfactory :5 f9i%$4 ,"s work]s pref] to d ! outl9+ ( ! design fir/ & ! backgr\nd aft]w>ds1 o!rs rev]se ! process--mu* dep5ds on ! work] h]self2 ! backgr\nd c be kept free f puck]+ by plac+ ! "w 9 a frame4 ,to "w ,fig4 ,m4--,tie ! ?read to beg9 )2 br+ ! ne$le out at ! fir/ dot ( ! top left-h& corn]2 put x d[n ?r\gh ! dot to ! "r2 pull ! ?ree or f\r /r&s toge!r & repeat ?is horizontal /it* to tight52 pass ! ne$le diagonally "u to ! second left-h& dot--exactly "u ! fir/2 make an upw>d /it* into ! fir/ dot2 pull /r&s toge!r2 repeat /it* & tight5--?is br+s ! ne$le to ! surface aga9 ) "o horizontal & "o v]tical /it* complet$4 ,repeat ^! two /it*es to ! end ( ! r[4 ,^! /it*es %\ld =m ?ree sides ( a squ>e1 ! f\r? side be+ add$ ) ! second r[4 ,:5 ! edge ( ! space is rea*$1 turn ! "w r\nd s z to be able to "w f ! top d[n1 z at />t+4 ,make a little /it* to keep ! ?read firm1 on ! wrong side1 !n br+ ! ne$le out at ! dot to ! left2 put x d[n ?r\gh ! previ\s hole--horizontal /it*2 repeat2 take a v]tical /it*1 putt+ ! ne$le d[n into ! previ\s hole1 &1 complet+ ! squ>e 7,fig4 ,m71 repeat2 pass ! ne$le diagonally "u ! mat]ial to ! next dot1 & s on4 ,:5 a v f9e mat]ial is us$ ! gr\ps ( ?reads may be held toge!r by a s+le /it* in/ead ( a d\ble "o4 ,?is backgr\nd may be work$ 9 a diff]5t way1 all ! horizontal /it*es be+ work$ fir/1 & !n ! :ole turn$ half r\nd & ! v]tical /it*es1 :i* are n[ horizontal1 work$ next4 ,?is may comm5d itself to "s1 be+ r a simpl] me?od2 x is done entirely 9 horizontal /it*es & ne$s no description aft] /udy+ ! fir/ me?od4 ,aft] ! backgr\nd is f9i%$ ! design may be work$ 9 ) sat9 /it*1 *a9 /it*1 outl9e /it* or button-hole /it*4 ,?is %\ld be done 9 ! h&4 ,ri*elieu ,embroid]y4--,ri*elieu embroid]y--ano!r ( ! embroid]ies work$ 9 button-hole /it*--is ev5 simpl] 9 execution ?an ,dani% "w1 z ! mat]ial is n cut away until ! button-hol$ b>s--:i* connect ! patt]n--are f9i%$4 ,x is work$ 9 ! h&1 g5]ally ov] a piece ( toile cire--,am]ican clo? specially made = embroid]y4 ,! entire design is outl9$ 9 small tack+ /it*es ) embroid]y cotton2 ! b>s are !n work$ 9--!y always h picots1 :i* is *>act]i/ic ( ,ri*elieu "w4 ,= ! work+ ( b>s see ,fig4 #bd1 & ( picots1 ,fig4 #eg4 ,c>e mu/ be tak5 to secure ! ends ( ! b>s1 by pass+ ! ne$le ?r\gh ! l95 to ! back & mak+ a /it*1 be=e runn+ ! /it*es along ! outl9e to ! po9t = ! mak+ ( ! next b>4 ,! design is !n button-hol$ all ov] 9 equal-siz$ /it*es2 ! fl[] c5tres are work$ 91 & f9ally ! l95 is cut away v close to ! button-hol$ design ) a %>p pair ( embroid]y scissors4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #eb4 ,edg+3 ,po9t de ,bruxelles 7,fig4 #eb74--,?is ,fig4 #eb1 :i* consi/s ( a piece ( ,honiton braid ) an edg+1 %[s ! work+ ( "o ( ! mo/ elem5t>y ( ! lace /it*es4 ,x w be se5 at a glance t x is ! famili> button-hole /it* work$ 9 loose loops2 to lace-mak]s x is kn[n z po9t de ,bruxelles4 ,x is a /it* con/antly 9 use ) !m z x =ms a good f\ndation net1 & *>m+ patt]ns may be made ) x :5 work$ 9 r[s1 backw>ds & =w>ds4 ,po9t de ,bruxelles is frequ5tly f\nd 9 laces ( diff]5t types z x may be work$ closely or op5ly to suit v>i\s /yles & designs4 ,! /it*es are work$ into ! loops ( ! previ\s r[2 sometimes a /r5g!n+ ?read is /ret*$ f "r to left1 9 :i* case ! button-hole loops are work$ f left to "r ov] ?is ?read1 z well z into ! loops ( ! upp] r[4 ,!re are _m beautiful v>ieties ( patt]ns = cov]+ spaces or op5work fill+s to be made f ?is simple f\ndation /it*1 by v>y+ ! gr\p+ ( "s & duplicat+ o!rs 7,fig4 #ec74 ,:at is kn[n z d\ble-net /it* has two button-hole /it*es work$ into ea* ( ! loops ( ! previ\s r[4 ,:5 us$ z a surface /it* work$ 9 co>se ?reads ! loops may be fairly loose1 provid$ c>e is tak5 to keep !m regul> 9 %ape & size4 ,= ^? :o are n exp]t a frame is helpful or a piece ( /iff glaz$ calico or br[n pap]--ei!r might be utilis$ to keep ! mat]ial /ret*$4 ,z a fill+ = an op5 space !y %\ld be work$ mu* small] & clos] 9 a l95 ?read1 ! size ma9ly dep5d+ ^u ! op5+ to be fill$ 94 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ec4 ,po9t de ,sorr5to4--,9 ?is 7,fig4 #ec7 !re is a pleas+ v>iety ( ! same /it*4 ,x also has a special "n among lacework]s--po9t de ,sorr5to1 al?\gh only v>y+ slightly 9 ! arrangem5t ( ! loops f po9t de ,bruxelles4 ,x is us$ pr9cipally = ! fill+ ( op5 spaces & is comp>atively quickly work$4 ,good results1 too1 c be _h by fill+ 9 l>ge spaces ) wooll5 ?reads ( ! twi/$ type4 ,9 ! fir/ r[ ! /it*es are tak5 r closely toge!r b equally di/ribut$ 9 ! second r[2 "o /it* is work$ into ! la/ loop ( ! fir/ r[2 "o loop is miss$2 "o /it* into ea* ( ! two foll[+ loops1 & s on across ! space4 ,! patt]n />ts on ! left side & is work$ to & fro1 ! ?ird r[1 !re=e1 />ts f ! left aga9 ) "o /it* into ! small] loop & ?ree into ! wid] loop4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ed4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ed;,a4 ,fig4 #ed is r a fav\rite patt]n1 b ! mak+ ( ! small :eels or roses is j a little t$i\s4 ,! f\ndation is a r[ ( loop$ button-hole /it*es1 simil> to ,fig4 #eb1 work$ into a circle ( braid or a r[ ( n too closely work$ button-hol$ mat]ial z describ$ on p4 #ach4 ,if ! circle is small1 ano!r r[ add$ to ?is & drawn up by ov]ca/+ ! inn] circle w (t5 be suffici5t4 ,! little :eels take up q a l>ge space !mselves1 b :]e su* elaborate /it*+ is want$ !y look v effective4 ,me?od3--,aft] ! r[ ( op5 loops has be5 made1 ov]ca/ a s+le /it* into ea* loop & draw up ! ?read to tight5 ! circle2 ! fir/ r[ ( op5 button-hol+ %\ld be nicely spac$ to leave room = ! =m+ ( ! little :eels4 ,! little :eel-l =ms are wov5 9 & out ( ! connect+ /it*es z is cle>ly %[n 9 ,fig4 #ed;,a4 ,ano!r me?od ( fill+ 9 a circle is z foll[s3--,make a r[ ( op5 button-hol+ z ,fig4 #eb1 spac$ widely1 s t !re may be eight or t5 loops 9 ! r\nd4 ,?is done1 draw !m up by ov]ca/+ "o /it* into ea* loop2 !n c>ry ! ?read back to ! edge ( ! braid at ! />t+ po9t ( ! fir/ button-hole loop--?is is necess>y to complete ! fir/ loop1 ! la/ half ( :i*1 s f>1 has only got "o /r&4 ,add two m ?reads to ?is half-loop by c>ry+ ! ne$le to ! c5tre & back aga92 ?is acts z a /r5g!n+ or padd+ ?read to ! half-loop1 :i* has n[ to be button-hol$ f ! out] edge to ! inn] circle4 ,ea* loop is work$ 9 ! same way1 always add+ ! padd+ ?reads & />t+ ! button-hol+ f ! braid1 & f !re work+ t[>ds ! c5tre4 ,:5 ea* loop has be5 work$1 button-hole r\nd ! inn] circle ) ! head+ t[>ds ! out] r+2 slip ! ?read up ?r\gh ! fir/ b> & f9i% (f neatly4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ee4 ,fig4 #ee gives a simple me?od ( fill+ 9 a squ>e op5+ ) a circul> =m4 ,x is n s complicat$ z "o might suppose4 ,/>t at ! l[] left-h& corn] & lay ! ?reads = ! squ>e2 !n ! fir/ diagonal l9e is /ret*$ across to ! top "r-h& corn]2 ov]ca/ x back--9 ! me?od %[n 9 ! diagram--z f> z ! c5tre only4 ,f ?is po9t--! c5tre--ea* ?read is laid 9 succession to ! edge--v]tical1 diagonal1 horizontal1 ea* "o 9 turn--& ov]ca/ back to ! c5tre2 :5 ! circle is complete1 ov]ca/ ! second "p ( ! fir/ diagonal back to ! edge4 ,! loose button-hole loops are !n work$1 two into ea* side ( ! side & ! ?read1 pass+ r\nd ! fir/ incomplete loop1 is int]lac$ r\nd ! inn] circle to /r5g!n & tight5 x 7comp>e ,fig4 #ee74 ,n[ complete ! fir/ button-hole loop2 make ! f9al outside circle & f9i% (f ! ?read4 ,if ! fill+ looks r ?9 :5 f9i%$ x may be solidifi$ by work+ a r[ ( close button-hol+ r\nd ! inn] circle4 ,?is /it* is an int]e/+ "o & r less us$ ?an ! common po9t de ,bruxelles1 on acc\nt ( ! initial difficulty ( keep+ x q regul>2 a little practice v quickly gives facility to a c>eful work]4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ef4 ,a ,nett+ ,knot 7,fig4 #ef74--,! knot is simil> to t us$ = nett+4 ,9 work+ an op5 space z 9 ,fig4 #ef1 x w be f\nd ( consid]able aid--t[>ds ! equalis+ ( ! loops--if horizontal l9es are drawn on ! f\ndation mat]ial4 ,! loop may be fix$ ) a p9 into position1 & ! ne$le be+ ins]t$ beh9d ! loop ( ! upp] r[ & ! /ret*$ ?read1 ! work+ ?read is !n twi/$ ov] & "u ! ne$le be=e ! ?read is drawn up4 ,?is /it* c also be work$ )\t ! /r5g!n+ horizontal l9es1 ei!r 9 diagonal or /raight l9es4 ,to "w x diagonally1 make ! fir/ loop 9 ! left top corn] ( ! squ>e2 ov]ca/ a few /it*es along ! top to rea* ! position = />t+ ! second r[2 ea* loop is secur$ ) ! knot z 9 ,fig4 #ef1 _! regul>ity & equal l5g? be+ ensur$ by ! p9 :i* is /uck into ! f\ndation4 ,9 nett+1 a knitt+ ne$le or small me% is us$ in/ead ( a p94 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xiv4 ,,corn] ,,( ,,cot ,,cov]let--,,unf9i%$ 7,see p4 #ach7 ,edg+s4--,a v da9ty & durable little edg+ may be made by work+ ?is knot on to a col\r$ or a lace braid4 ,9 ,fig4 #cj ! knot comes at ! edge ( ! mat]ial1 :ile ) ?is po9t ,turc knot ! edge ( ! loop is knott$4 ,if ! loop 9 ! edg+ 9 ,fig4 #cj is work$ r tight]1 x also makes a v durable f9i%4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #eg4 ,picots 7,fig4 #eg74--,! little p9 picot is occasionally us$ z a f9i% to a button-hole edg+4 ,x is r ineffective1 hav+ only a s+le ?read1 :i* is apt to disappe> aft] a little we>4 ,fig4 #bc gives a mu* m sub/antial picot 9 bullion /it*4 ,to "w ,fig4 #eg1 button-hole a few /it*es along ! edge or b> z ! case may be2 fix a p9 into ! mat]ial or b> & pass ! ?read "u x2 take a /it* into ! mat]ial2 br+ ! ne$le out at ! back2 slip x "u ! ?ree ?reads f left to "r 7see ,fig4 #eg7 & draw ?r\gh4 ,make a firm knot close to ! edge ( ! mat]ial1 !n cont9ue ! button-hol+ till ! next po9t is rea*$4 ,v5etian ,picot4--,a m sub/antial picot is us$ 9 ,v5etian lace & embroid]y z foll[s3--,make a connect+ b> by /ret*+ ?ree ?reads across f "o edge ( ! op5+ to ! o!r1 z 9 ,fig4 #bf4 ,button-hole half-way across1 !n ins]t a p9 z ,fig4 #eg1 b pass ! ?read "u ! p9 & ov] ! b> twice2 !n beg9 to button-hole ! picot at ! po9t :]e ! p9 is ins]t$ & "w five or six button-hole /it*es till ! b> is rea*$2 ! po9t mu/ be closely cov]$1 !n cont9ue ! button-hol+ ( ! b>4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #eh4 ,fig4 #eh1 a1 b1 c1 %[ h[ a solid little picot may be work$ z an edg+2 x %\ld h "s decorative /it* to jo9 up ! picots1 su* z l>ge ov]ca/+1 button-hole1 *a9 or c\*+ /it*4 ,x is g5]ally easi] to "w ! picots ) ! edge held away f ! work]4 ,make a loop z at a2 fa/5 x ) a p92 !n take ! ?read to ! top ( ! loop & pass x r\nd z b4 ,!n int]lace backw>ds & =w>ds1 pass+ ! ne$le "u ! ?read be=e go+ ov] to ! opposite side1 c4 ,repeat f\r or five times until ! loop is fill$4 ,a twi/$ ?read ( a fairly ?ick make is mo/ suitable = ^! picots4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ei4 ,a ,button-hole ,edg+4--,fig4 #ei %[s h[ to "w an edg+ :i* is p>ticul>ly suitable = h\sehold l951 table mats1 t[els1 etc42 be+ bo? /rong & durable1 x w /& ! h>d we> :i* h\sehold articles 9 daily use are subject$ to4 ,figs4 #fj & #fa are v good surface /it*es1 bo? ( :i* make bold & mo/ effective head+s to a bord] or b& ( ne$le-weav+4 ,bo? dep5d consid]ably on ! c>e ) :i* ! f\ndation /it*es are work$2 if ^! are n equally di/ribut$ & ! int]lac+ ?read c>efully adju/$ to =m ! circles or l9ks ( ! patt]n ! decorative value ( ! l9e or fill+ is spoilt4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #fj4 ,a ,bord] ,/it* 7,fig4 #fj74--,to "w z ,fig4 #fj ?ree r[s are requir$ to complete ! /it*4 ,fir/ make a r[ ( horizontal /it*es on a level ) ea* o!r2 !n take a long ?read & pass ! ne$le1 eye =emo/1 up "u ! fir/ small /it*1 d[n ?r\gh ! second1 & s on1 till ! fir/ r[ is f9i%$--! second r[ ( int]lac+ completes ! l9k4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #fa4 ,an ,int]lac+ ,bord] or ,fill+ 7,fig4 #fa74--,! /it* may also be us$ z a backgr\nd or fill+1 9 :i* case ! gr\nd mu/ fir/ be patt]n$ ov] ) alt]nat+ r[s ( horizontal & v]tical /it*es1 equally spac$4 ,! v]tical /it*es hold ! l[] & upp] edges ( ! l9ks toge!r--"o su* /it* is se5 on ! left ( ,fig4 #fj4 ,fig4 #fa looks well if ! f\ndation /it*es are work$ 9 "o col\r & ! int]lac+ ?reads 9 ano!r4 ,by look+ at ! figure x w be se5 t f\r small horizontal /it*es are requir$ to support ! int]lac+ ?reads1 9 gr\ps ( two4 ,^! mu/ be equally spac$ s t ! r+s may be equal 9 size4 ,aft] ! f\ndation /it*es are work$ proce$ exactly z 9 ,fig4 #fj4 ,take a long ?read = ! int]lac+ ( ! fir/ r[2 pass ! eye ( ! ne$le =emo/ ?r\gh ! small /it*es to prev5t splitt+ ( ! ?reads2 foll[ by a second r[1 :i* completes ! r+4 ,fig4 #ac gives a r[ ( l>ge back /it*+ ) an int]lac+ ?read :i* is work$ 9 a simil> way1 & :i* makes a good firm l9e or head+ to a bord] or hem4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #fb ,two ,leaf ,fill+s 7,fig4 #fb74--,?is fill+ = a leaf or oval =m is quickly work$2 x may be us$ equally well = a surface /it*4 ,fig4 #fb repres5ts a leaf ) a lace braid = ! outl9e4 ,! c5tral ?read :i* =ms ! mid-rib is /ret*$ fir/1 ! loosely work$ loops are !n ?read$ ov] ?is4 ,?is v simple arrangem5t looks rem>kably well1 & c be /ill fur!r enri*$ by spac+ ! loops mu* wid] ap>t1 /ret*+ horizontal l9es across ! spaces & =m+ little wov5 :eels1 or rosettes1 ov] !m1 d[n ! mid-rib4 ,?is is1 ( c\rse1 a mu* m elaborate type ( leaf1 & w\ld be us$ to fill q a l>ge space4 ,!re are _m simpl] me?ods ( fill+ leaf =ms or oval spaces--a r[ ( button-hol+1 po9t de ,bruxelles 7,fig4 #eb7 work$ r\nd ! inn] edge1 foll[$ by "o or two r[s ( loop$ button-hole /it* 7,fig4 #ec71 & clos$ d[n ! c5tre by a l9e ( faggot1 or ,russian /it*1 f9ally ov]ca/+ a few /it*es to ! edge 9 ord] to f9i% (f ! ?read neatly4 ,simil>ly1 ,fig4 #fb b1 may also be work$ ei!r z a surface fill+ or z an op5 "o4 ,! horizontal l9es are /ret*$ fir/1 !n ov]ca/+ f left to "r ( ! /raight l9es fixes ^! transv]se ?reads2 o!rwise !y w\ld be apt to get out ( place1 z !y are only ?read$ ov] ! "o l9e & "u ! o!r4 ,po9t de ,v5ise 7,fig4 #fb a74--,?is c be work$ on to baby g>m5ts1 or to any article :]e a da9ty f9i% is requir$4 ,x looks ev5 bett] if ! head+ is ( "s ( ! lace braids4 ,! ?read is secur$ at ! edge & a loop$ /it* is tak5 z a f\ndation ?read into :i* are work$ f\r button-hole /it*es--to =m a scallop4 ,?is *>m+ edg+ is mu* us$ 9 po9t de ,v5ise4 ,! same /it* also makes a beautiful fill+ patt]n4 ,a ,useful ,bag4--,plate ,,xiii4 illu/rates :at may be done ) su* simple mat]ials z canvas1 braid & wool4 ,! f\ndation ( canvas has ! design trac$ on to ! mat]ial2 x consi/s ( a s]ies ( little circles & half-circles1 :i* ov]lap "h & !re1 & :i* are ev5tually turn$ into gay little conv5tional fl[]s by means ( bright-col\r$ wools4 ,^! fl[]s are mo/ly work$ 9 petal /it* 7,fig4 #c;,a71 & ,fr5* knots 7,fig4 #bb;,a74 ,! b& is enclos$ by two r[s ( braid1 ov]sewn ) gre51 blue & purple wool4 ,! foot ( ! bag is made up ( an oval ( braid work$ 9 r[s f ! c5tre outw>ds2 ! tassels1 also ( braid1 are bright5$ by r+s & tags ( wool2 little ?9 l9es ( t9sel ?reads are d>n$ into ! canvas--^! s]ve to connect ! embroid]$ b& ) ! upp] decoration4 ,! embroid]$ r+s :i* hold ! draw /r+s are extremely pretty4 ,?is note ( orig9ality1 & inde$1 ! :ole bag1 conveys to "o's m9d ! impression ( ! bright p]sonality ( ! work] :o ?us gives outw>d expression ( ! joy x gives h] to "w ) h] ne$le4 ,,*apt] ,,xiii ,,decorative ,,fl[]s ,,& ,,leaves--,,edg+ ,,& ,,ins]tion 8,take ! gifts1 too1 to s]ve z monum5ts ( my h& lab\r40 ,^! little fl[]s are a da9ty trimm+ = hat b&s 7,plates ,,ix4 & ,,xii471 coll>s1 ribbon1 ties & jump]s1 = dress decoration1 or z an addition to almo/ any article ( daily we>3 fur!r1 !y are s simple to "w t a v few directions w enable any "o to make & apply !m to :atev] object may be *os5 = decoration4 ,cro*et4--,all cro*et consi/s ( a s]ies ( little loops made by a ne$le or hook1 ^! be+ work$ or drawn toge!r 9 v>i\s ways to =m patt]ns or designs suitable = edg+s1 ins]tions1 motifs1 etc41 = dome/ic use1 & innum]able articles ( p]sonal we>4 ,! f\ndation /it* is a *a91 & all patt]ns comm5ce ) x--two or ?ree or m1 accord+ to ! article to be =m$4 ,mo/ cro*et patt]ns are work$ 9 r[s1 backw>ds & =w>ds1 or all f "o end2 9 ! =m] case1 ! "w mu/ be turn$ at ! end ( ! r[1 aft] mak+ two or ?ree /it*es to all[ = turn+2 !re=e1 ! second1 f\r?1 & six? r[1 etc41 w be work$ on ! opposite side f ! fir/1 ?ird1 & fif?1 etc4 ,:5 ! r[s are all />t$ f ! same end1 ! wool mu/ be cut (f at ! end ( ea* r[1 & comm5c$ aga9 at ! beg9n+ ( ! next4 ,cro*et is work$1 z 9 ord9>y ne$lework1 f "r to left4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #fc4 ,*a9 ,slip-knot 7,fig4 #fc74--,we w />t !n ) a slip-knot1 :i* =ms ! fir/ loop = ! *a9 7,fig4 #fc74 ,w9d ! wool once r\nd ! fir/ two f+]s ( ! left h& & pull ! long end ( ! wool ?r\gh ! circle ?us made 9 a su* a way z to =m a loop2 ins]t ! hook2 pull bo? ends ( ! wool & tight5 ! knot suffici5tly to leave an easy passage = ! hook ?r\gh x4 ,! next /it* is made by tak+ up ! long end ( ! wool ) ! hook & draw+ x ?r\gh ! loop4 ,repeat ?is process until ! l5g? ( *a9 requir$ has be5 obta9$ 7,fig4 #fd74 ,a little practice w soon give ! regul>ity ( /it* necess>y4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #fd4 ,s+le ,/it*4--,to practise s+le cro*et1 make a *a9 ab\t #ab in*es long2 put ! hook into ! upp] half-loop ( ! second *a92 ?r[ ! wool ov] ! po9t & draw x ?r\gh ?is half-loop & ?r\gh ! loop :i* is already on ! hook4 ,proce$ 9 ?is way to ! end ( ! *a92 "w "o *a92 turn & "w back aga91 tak+ c>e to put ! hook into ! upp] half ( ! /it* ( ! previ\s r[4 ,?us ! fir/ /it* ( ea* succe$+ r[ is always work$ into ! back ( ! la/ /it* ( ! prec$+ r[4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xv4 ,,two ,,simple ,,baskets 7,see p4 #afi7 ,d\ble ,/it*4--,d\ble /it* is n v diff]5t f s+le /it*4 ,put ! hook into ! upp] half ( ! ?ird *a9 f ! hook1 z 9 s+le /it*2 pass ! wool ov] ! hook & draw x ?r\gh4 ,!re are n[ two loops on ! hook4 ,pass ! wool ov] aga9 & draw x ?r\gh ^! two loops2 cont9ue to ! end ( ! *a9 & turn z 9 s+le /it*4 ,treble ,/it*4--,?is /it* uses up mu* m wool ?an ! two prec$+ ones4 ,beg9 by pass+ ! wool ov] ! hook1 !n ins]t x 9 ! upp] half ( ! *a9 already made2 draw ! wool ?r\gh & !re w be ?ree loops on ! hook4 ,put ! wool ov] ! hook & draw x ?r\gh two loops2 put x ov] a ?ird "t & draw ?r\gh ! two rema9+ /it*es4 ,t completes a treble /it*4 ,x w n[ be notic$ t = a s+le /it* ! wool passes ov] ! hook once1 = a d\ble /it* x passes ov] twice1 & = a treble /it* x passes ov] ?ree times4 ,long ,treble ,/it*4--,long trebles are made by pass+ ! wool twice ov] ! hook to beg9 )1 !n work+ x by draw+ ! ne$le ?r\gh two by two1 always rememb]+ to pass ! wool ov] ! hook1 j z 9 treble /it*4 ,:5 work+ trebles to & fro1 f\r or five *a9 /it*es mu/ always be made at ! end ( ea* r[ be=e turn+4 ,:5 ! "w is turn$1 ^! *a9 /it*es =m1 or r replace1 ! fir/ treble1 :i* is skipp$4 ,?is keeps ! edges m regul>4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #fe4 ,ladd] ,ins]tion 7,fig #fe74--;,fig4 #fe =ms a useful little ins]tion or ladd] on :i* to place ! cro*et fl[]s4 ,x connects ! gr\ps & prev5ts ! spotty appe>ance :i* w\ld be r a disadvantage if ! fl[]s 7 scatt]$ 9 arrangem5t 7,plate ,,xii474 ,x is v simply work$4 ,make a *a9 ! requir$ l5g?1 !n add ?ree or f\r /it*es = turn+1 to all[ = ! dep? ( ! treble2 ins]t ! hook into ! fif? half-loop1 c\nt+ backw>ds1 & make a treble /it* z describ$ 7p4 #aeg72 cro*et "o or two *a9 betwe5 ea* treble /it* to correspond ) ! numb] ( *a9 /it*es pass$ ov]4 ,hooks4--,9 mak+ ! fl[]s1 x is bett] = a novice to "w ) a bone cro*et hook & wool2 /eel hooks are us$ = f9e ?reads1 flax1 silk1 or cotton1 & are n q s easy to manipulate z bone or wood5 ones4 ,! po9t ( ! hook ought to be q free f r\ghness1 z ! wool or ?read ( any k9d is s easily ruffl$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ff4 ,fl[]s 7,fig4 #ff74--,to make ! simple/ fl[]1 "w five *a9 & jo9 7,fig4 #ff a74 ,?is figure is work$ v loosely 9 ord] to %[ ! me?od4 ,!n make sev5 *a9 & "o d\ble cro*et into ! r+2 five *a9 & "o d\ble cro*et into ! r+4 ,"w 9 ?is way until sev5 little petals h be5 =m$1 !n jo9 into ! ?ird *a92 f9i% (f by cutt+ ! wool & pull+ x ?r\gh4 ,?read a ne$le ) ! cut end1 & slip x d[n ! *a9 to fa/5 (f4 ,?is =ms a t9y fl[]1 :i* may be duplicat$ 9 v>i\s tones ( ! same col\r & sewn on to ! f\ndation ) cross /it* or ,fr5* knots4 ,! sizes ( ! fl[]s w v>y consid]ably accord+ to ! ?ickness ( ! hook & ?read us$1 z well z to ! me?od ( work+1 b x is always bett] to cro*et fl[]s firmly to keep !m 9 %ape4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #fg4 ,a m elaborate ,fl[] 7,fig4 #fg74--;,fig4 #fg gives a slightly m elaborate fl[]4 ,me?od3--,"w six or sev5 *a9 & jo9 by pull+ ! loop ?r\gh ! fir/ /it*4 ,to make ! petals1 "w f\r *a92 ?ree treble /it*es into ! r+2 f\r *a9 & "o s+le or d\ble /it* into ! r+--?is completes a petal4 ,notice t ! f\r *a9 at ! beg9n+ & end =m ! sides ( ! petal4 ,be c>eful n to split ! wool :ile work+1 z ?is spoils ! appe>ance ( ! fl[]4 ,make five1 six1 or sev5 petals & jo9 at ! r+ z be=e4 ,if a l>g] fl[] is want$1 make a small fl[] z ,fig4 #ff = ! c5tre1 & "w ! petals into ! op5+s in/ead ( into ! r+2 ! petals may be made full] also by add+ m treble /it*es to ea* "o4 ,figs4 #ff & #fg1 if work$ 9 silk1 cotton1 or flax1 make q a pretty decoration2 ! fl[]s may be fold$ into v>i\s %apes & an int]e/+ t\* ( col\r or a /it* "h or !re1 or an outl9e ( button-hol+ w add ri*ness & v>iety to ! "w 7,plate ,,xv474 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #fh4 ,leaves 7,fig4 #fh74--,leaves are q simple to make1 &1 ( c\rse1 w v>y 9 size & =m1 j z ! fl[]s d1 accord+ to ! size ( ! hook & ! ?ickness ( wool us$4 ,a *a9 =ms ! mid-rib ( ! leaf1 & into ?is d\ble1 treble & long treble /it*es are work$ up "o side ( ! *a9 & d[n ! o!r1 ! long trebles com+ at ! wide/ "p & decreas+ t[>ds ! tip4 ,me?od3--,make n9ete5 *a9 z a f\ndation2 "w "o s+le /it* into ! second *a9 f ! hook1 "o d\ble cro*et into ea* ( ! next two *a91 "o treble /it* into ea* ( ! next two *a91 "o long treble into ea* ( ! next eight *a91 "o treble into ea* ( ! next two *a91 "o d\ble cro*et into ! next *a91 ?ree d\ble cro*et into ! la/ *a94 ,^! ?ree /it*es =m ! tip ( ! leaf4 ,cont9ue ) "o d\ble cro*et into ! next *a92 on ! o!r side ( ! *a9 a treble /it* into ea* ( ! next two *a91 & s on--repeat+ ! /it*es z on ! asc5d+ side--to ! end ( ! *a9 7,plate ,,xii474 ,?is leaf may be enl>g$ by work+ a r[ ( d\ble /it* all r\nd1 :ile a small] "o may be made by />t+ ) ?irte5 or fifte5 *a9 & putt+ 9 few] long trebles4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #fi4 ,wir$ ,leaves 7,fig4 #fi74--;,ano!r type ( leaf 7,fig4 #fi7 is made ) two l5g?s ( cov]$ gre5 mill9]y wire--any wire w d s long z x is cov]$--:i* are ti$ toge!r 9 ! c5tre ) gre5 silk & !n b5t into ! =m ( a leaf & fa/5$ at ! foot ) silk or wool4 ,! wire is !n int]lac$ ) wool1 flax1 or silk1 or *5ille1 9 gre51 blue1 or any col\r desir$4 ,z ! weav+ proce$s 9 & out1 take c>e to pu% ! r[s closely toge!r until ! tip is rea*$2 pass ! ne$le & ?read twice r\nd ! tip & slip ! ne$le d[n ! c5tre to ! /em1 :]e ! ?read is w\nd r\nd & r\nd until x is firm & a suffici5t l5g? ( /em is cov]$4 ,wir$ ,fl[]s4--,fl[]s may be made 9 ! same way1 ea* petal be+ treat$ z a leaf2 five or six are !n ti$ toge!r to =m ! /em1 & ,fr5* or bullion knots add$ 9 ano!r col\r--to give /am5s & pi/il = ! c5tre4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #gj4 ,a ,,useful ,,cord 7,,fig4 #gj74--;,fig4 #gj makes a v good f9i% = v>i\s purposes2 x is a *a9 made ) d\ble /it*4 ,beg9 ) two *a92 put ! hook into ! fir/ *a92 pass ! ?read ov] & draw x ?r\gh 9 a loop2 pass ! ?read ov] aga9 & draw x ?r\gh ! two loops on ! hook2 put ! hook into ! left side ( ! /it* j made2 pass ! ?read ov] ! hook & draw x ?r\gh2 pass ! ?read aga9 ov] ! hook & draw x ?r\gh bo? /it*es2 cont9ue 9 ?is way till l5g? requir$ has be5 work$4 ,?is little cord w be useful = bags1 edg+s = coats & jump]s & _m o!r articles4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ga4 ,tricot 7,fig4 #ga74--;,fig4 #ga repres5ts ano!r type ( cro*et1 sometimes call$ ,victorian or ,tunisian cro*et or simply cro*et tricot4 ,x makes a firm1 close1 yet ela/ic piece ( "w1 & is specially suit$ to ! mak+ ( *ildr5's slipp]s1 sc>ves1 bonnets1 re9s1 braces1 coll>s1 hat b&s1 etc4 ,x is always work$ 9 r[s--nev] 9 r\nds--& a long /raight hook ) a knob at ! end is necess>y z all ! /it*es on ! advanc+ r[ are kept on ! hook & work$ (f on ! return r[--^! two r[s complete ! /it*1 :i* is work$ on ! "r side backw>ds & =w>ds4 ,tricot cro*et is comm5c$ ) a *a9 ! exact l5g? & f9i%$ (f ) s+le /it*4 ,a ,tricot ,coll> 7,plate ,,ix474--,! coll> 9 ,plate ,,ix4 is work$ 9 ,knox's l95 8cord0 floss ?read4 ,make sixte5 *a9 & "w ?ree r[s ( d\ble /it* to keep ! ends f curl+ up z !y w\ld d if ! tricot /it* 0 />t$ "r away4 ,= ! tricot1 ! loop r[ is work$ ?us3--,put ! hook ?r\gh ! fir/ /it*2 pass ! ?read ov] & draw x ?r\gh 9 a loop2 put ! hook ?r\gh ! second /it* & pass ! ?read ov]2 draw ?r\gh 9 a loop2 cont9ue 9 ?is way to ! end ( ! r[1 :5 !re %\ld be sixte5 loops on ! hook4 ,put ! ?read ov] ! hook & draw x ?r\gh "o loop2 pass ! ?read ov] & draw x ?r\gh two loops2 keep on repeat+ ?is1 pass+ ! ?read ov] & draw+ ?r\gh two loops until !re is only "o /it* left on ! hook4 ,^! two r[s complete ! /it*4 ,9 ! next r[1 ! loop r[1 put ! hook ?r\gh ! hole betwe5 ! fir/ & second /it*es2 pass ! ?read ov] & draw x ?r\gh2 pass ! ?read ov] ! hook aga9 & draw x ?r\gh ! fir/ ( ! two loops on ! hook2 repeat to end ( r[1 always putt+ ! hook into ! hole betwe5 ! /it*es2 c\nt ! /it*es at ! end ( ! r[s1 z x is q a common mi/ake = a beg9n] to increase or decrease by miss+ or mak+ /it*es4 ,! coll> is f9i%$ ) a r[ ( s+le /it* "r r\nd1 a deep picot fr+e to ! ends ) fl[]s work$ 9 ,knox's l95 8cord0 floss ?read 9 delicate t9ts edg$ ) silv] ?read & plac$ 9 gr\ps to give weight1 int]e/ & f9i% to ! :ole4 ,picots4--,picots 7,fig4 #gb7 make a da9ty f9i% = an edg+ ( cro*et1 ne$lework1 or lace4 ,coll>s1 table mats & _m small articles may be improv$ by ^! light po9ts ( v>i\s %apes2 ! "o objection to !m is t !y lose 9 appe>ance aft] wa%+s & s are n suitable = r\gh we> unless sub/antially made4 ,pla9 ,cro*et ,picots4--,cro*et picots are quickly & easily work$4 ,= a pla9 triangul> po9t1 make six *a91 !n "w "o treble /it* into ! fir/ *a9 made1 t is ! /it* fur!/ f ! hook4 ,repeat six *a9 & "o treble into ! fir/ *a9 = ! l5g? requir$--! six *a9 =m ! little triangul> po9ts or picots1 ! treble /it* =ms ! head+4 ,dropp+ ,picots4--,^! dropp+ picots are a little m solid 9 appe>ance ?an ! pla9 picots4 ,make five *a92 )draw ! hook f ! loop & ins]t x 9 ! second ( ! five *a9 /it*es j made2 take up ! loop dropp$2 pass ! ?read ov] ! ne$le & draw x ?r\gh ! two loops2 repeat ) five *a92 drop ! la/ loop2 ins]t 9 second *a92 take up ! dropp$ loop2 put ! ?read ov] ! hook & draw ?r\gh bo? loops4 ,cont9ue 9 ?is way = ! l5g? requir$4 ,cro*et ,lace ,picots 7,fig4 #gc74--,lace picots1 z ! "n sugge/s1 are g5]ally work$ 9 f9e ?reads2 nev]!less1 !y c make v effective trimm+s if work$ 9 wool or /\t ?read ov] a me%1 & w we> wond]fully well4 ,two-*a9 ,picots4--,comm5ce ) two *a92 put ! hook into ! fir/ *a92 pass ! wool ov] & draw x ?r\gh ! /it*--!re are n[ two loops on ! hook2 "w two *a91 !n slip ! loop ne>e/ ! end ( ! hook (f on to a ?9 wire or me% & repeat4 ,put ! hook into ! fir/ ( ! two *a92 pass ! wool ov] & draw x ?r\gh ! /it*2 "w two *a9 & slip (f ! la/ loop4 ,x is sometimes easi] to )draw ! ne$le f ! two loops in/ead ( slipp+ ! la/ loop (f ! end ( ! hook & to replace x into ! front loop4 ,?is edg+ may be sewn to a piece ( "w4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #gb4 ,picots 7,fig4 #gb74--,! foll[+ picot is work$ directly on to ! edge ( ! f9i%$ piece ( cro*et1 or x may be work$ into a l5g? ( *a9 & ov]ca/ to ! edge ( any article suitable4 ,put ! hook into ! fir/ /it*2 pass ! wool ov] & draw ?r\gh2 "w "o d\ble cro*et 7see p4 #aeg7 into ! next *a92 draw out ! loop to ! desir$ l5g? = ! picot & slip x on to a me% or p5cil2 ins]t ! hook into ! horizontal /it* at ! foot ( ! loop2 pass ! wool ov] ! hook & draw a loop ?r\gh2 make a d\ble cro*et /it* into ! next *a92 draw out ! loop & slip on to ! me%2 repeat to ! end ( ! "w4 ,two-prong$ ,=k4--,a v quickly work$ ins]tion1 fr+e1 or edg+ may be made by means ( a two-prong$ =k4 ,! little implem5t c be manufactur$ q easily at home4 ,= a fr+e1 a wood5 =k is necess>y1 ) "o wide & "o n>r[ prong4 ,! usual =k is ( ?ick /eel wire & v>ies 9 size1 b z /eel wire is too h>d = ! unskill$ work] to manipulate1 a s(t] metal w\ld be m satisfactory4 ,a l5g? ( copp] wire ab\t "o-eigh? ( an in* 9 diamet] & #ae in*es long1 c\ld be beat5 into ! =m ( a hairp9 7,fig4 #gc7 by means ( a hamm]2 if ! metal is too h>d to take ! curve x c be s(t5$ by anneal+ x4 ,! wid? betwe5 ! prongs may v>y 9 diff]5t =ks accord+ to ! wid? ( ! ins]tion to be made1 f half an in* to #c in*es ap>t is ! usual spac+4 ,! /it* is made ) a cro*et ne$le1 :i* w also v>y 9 size accord+ to ! mat]ial us$2 = work+ 9 f+]+ wool1 ?ree or f\r ply1 a ,no4 #a /eel cro*et ne$le does v well4 ,cotton1 flax1 wool1 raffia1 /r+ & metal ?reads1 all may be work$ up to =m v>i\s useful articles = decorative purposes4 ,an effective fr+e c\ld be made by ?read+ beads into ! wool2 ! beads c\ld be kept at ! edge ( ! wide prong4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #gc4 ,an ,ins]tion or ,fr+e4--,me?od ( work+3--,?is ins]tion may be work$ 9 two ways4 ,by look+ at ,fig4 #gc x w be se5 t ! /it* is a v simple "o4 ,make a slip-knot z ,fig4 #fc1 & "o *a92 )draw ! hook4 ,place ! =k ) ! prongs upw>ds 9 ! left h&1 betwe5 ! ?umb & ! middle f+]2 slip ! *a9 /it* on to ! left prong ) ! ?read t[>ds ! work]4 ,ins]t ! hook f bel[ into x1 !n c>ry ! ?read r\nd ! "r prong & pass x ov] ! po9t ( ! hook2 pull x ?r\gh ! loop2 make "o *a92 put ! ?read r\nd ! left prong & turn ! =k to ! "r--slipp+ ! hook ov] ! "r prong at ! same "t s t x rema9s 9 ! same position betwe5 ! prongs ) ! h&le to ! work]2 ins]t ! hook into ! /it* on ! left prong f bel[2 cat* ! ?read & pull ?r\gh2 !re are n[ two loops on ! hook2 close ^! by putt+ ! ?read ov] & draw+ x ?r\gh bo?4 ,repeat ) ! ?read r\nd ! left prong z be=e4 ,raffia4--,a simple braid is done 9 ?ree movem5ts1 ! =k be+ turn$ betwe5 ea* ?ree4 ,:5 ! =k is fill$1 closely cov]$1 slip (f ! loops & re9s]t ! two prongs into ! la/ five or six loops1 !n cont9ue = ! requir$ l5g?4 ,two or ?ree braids may be jo9$ toge!r by slipp+ "o loop ov] ano!r1 or a contra/+ ?read may be tak5 & two loops on ! "o side may be jo9$ toge!r by a d\ble /it*2 !n make ?ree *a92 two loops on ! o!r side1 jo9$ aga91 !n ?ree *a92 work+ 9 ?is way1 ! jo9+ =ms a little r[ ( v&ykes 9 *a9 /it*4 ,! out] edges are !n /r5g!n$ by "o d\ble /it* into two loops2 two *a92 "o d\ble /it* into ! next two loops2 two *a91 & s on4 ,c>pet & skirt braids may be jo9$ toge!r by means ( an ins]tion made 9 tw9e or raffia--! latt] be+ ! m decorative4 ,aft] mak+ a r[ ( gimp on a wide-prong$ =k1 connect x to ! c>pet braid by work+ two d\ble cro*et /it*es into ea* loop & two into ! braid--if a suffici5t numb] ( r[s are jo9$ toge!r a /rong & useful %opp+ bag may be made1 f9i%$ ) h&les ( plait$ raffia & braid4 ,a pretty cro*et edg+ suitable = f9i%+ (f _m articles ( p]sonal we> or = dome/ic use1 :i* we>s & wa%es well1 may be work$ directly on to ! mat]ial4 ,"w a r[ ( button-hole /it* into ! edges ( ! mat]ial2 space ! /it*es r widely s z to all[ ( an easy entrance = ! cro*et hook--?is makes a da9ti] edg+ ?an ins]t+ ! ne$le directly into ! mat]ial4 ,x is work$ 9 ?ree r[s--a l95 ?read gives ! be/ effect4 ,to "w ! fir/ r[1 beg9 ) "o d\ble /it* into a button-hole loop1 !n two *a91 & "o d\ble cro*et into e second button-hole loop2 on approa*+ ! corn]s1 "w into e loop s z to all[ ! next r[ to lie easily r\nd !m--no?+ spoils good "w s mu* z to see ! /it*+ tight5$ & /ra9$ r\nd ! edges & corn]s4 ,:5 ! fir/ r[ is f9i%$ jo9 ! /it*es ) a s+le /it* & comm5ce ! second r[4 ,make eight or t5 *a9 accord+ to ! ?read us$ & size ( loop want$1 !n "w d\ble cro*et into e ?ird or f\r? loop ( ! previ\s r[--give ease to ! corn]s by work+ ?ree d\ble cro*et into ea* loop at ! f9i% ( ! r[2 jo9 z 9 second r[4 ,= ! ?ird r[ "w t5 or twelve d\ble cro*et /it*es ov] ! *a9 loops1 z ^! /it*es %\ld cov] ! *a9 loops closely1 :5 !y look simil> to button-hole /it*+4 ,! appe>ance ( ?is edg+ w naturally v>y consid]ably accord+ to ! size ( ! ne$le & ?read us$4 ,a v s]viceable edg+1 n too m9ute1 is made ) a ,no4 #d /eel cro*et hook & l95 8,l4,c40 cro*et ?read1 ,no4 #ad4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xvi4 ,a ,,cu%ion ,,cov]4 ,ano!r ,edg+ 7,plate ,,vii474--,a v effective edg+ is work$ into a r[ ( ne$le button-hole /it*4 ,l ! "o above1 x we>s & wa%es well4 ,fir/ r[3 "w "o d\ble cro*et into "o ( ! button-hole head+s2 make t5 *a92 pass six button-hole loops & "w "o d\ble cro*et into six? loop2 cont9ue mak+ t5 *a9 & "o d\ble cro*et until ! r[ is complete4 ,break (f ! ?read4 ,/>t ! second r[ ) "o d\ble cro*et 9 ! c5tre ( ! *a9 loop2 make t5 *a9 & "w "o d\ble cro*et into ! c5tre ( ! next loop1 & s on to ! end ( ! r[2 !n jo9 & break (f ! ?read4 ,! ?ird r[ is work$ 9 a col\r$ ?read4 ,take a blue l95 or cotton ?read & />t ?is r[ by work+ into ! fir/ loop4 ,two d\ble cro*et1 f\r *a91 f\r d\ble cro*et1 f\r *a9 & two d\ble cro*et4 ,"w ! same numb] ( /it*es 9 ea* loop4 ,! *a9 /it*es =m little picots2 ?is makes a da9ty little f9i% to a table c5tre4 ,comp>e ,plate ,,vii4 ,plate ,,xvb4 gives an example ( a "w bag made f rug canvas4 ,x is work$ 9 cross /it* 9 two %ades ( blue1 light gre5 & a r$di%-purple raffia4 ,! edges are turn$ 9 & f9i%$ (f ) a bord] ( s(t blue bru% braid2 ! h&les are ( raffia1 plait$1 9 ! diff]5t col\rs2 ! basket is l9$ ) a pr9t$ silk :i* mat*es ! v>i\s col\rs4 ,plate ,,xv4 gives a ,japanese basket wov5 9 grass1 trimm$ ) *]ry-col\r$ braid & cro*et$ fl[]s--! fl[]s are sewn on ) d>k blue2 ! l9+ consi/s ( two %ades ( blue4 ,! h&les are ( *]ry-col\r$ c>pet braid4 ,^! baskets are s v useful = ! hold+ ( odds & ends1 m5d+1 or embroid]y4 ,"s ( ! simple/ wov5 ,japanese baskets look v well :5 trimm$ ) braids 9 gay col\r+s & little cro*et fl[]s4 ,! busy woman might well h "o ( ^! useful little baskets ) "w ready to h] h&1 or suitable 9 _! cont5ts to h] v>i\s rooms4 ,a ,cu%ion ,case 7,plate ,,xvi474--,! orig9al is a *>m+ piece ( "w4 ,! backgr\nd1 ( a s(t blue tone1 is work$ 9 blues1 bright gre5s1 heliotrope & cream4 ,! design1 9 /raight l9es & circles1 has two b>s ( ne$le-weav+1 ! def9ite patt]n ( :i* is %[n to advantage by ! pla9 wov5 b>s on ei!r side4 ,! b>s are work$ simil>ly to ! lat*et d>ns :i* are frequ5tly us$ in/ead ( r+s to support ! draw /r+s ( bags4 ,! design is s simple t x might be drawn directly on to ! mat]ial--?is %\ld n be a difficult matt] if ! ?reads ( ! canvas are regul>ly wov54 ,put 9 ! ma9 l9es fir/--9 ! illu/ration ^! l9es are work$ 9 sat9 /it*2 use a rul] & a *alk p5cil--! latt] is easily rubb$ out if a mi/ake is made--!n run 9 ! design 9 wool or ?read4 ,measure (f ! b>s = ne$le-weav+1 b d n cut & draw ! ?reads until ready to "w !m4 ,great c>e mu/ be tak5 9 plann+ out ! v>i\s p>ts ( ! design to h all l9es runn+ accurately ) ! w>p & weft ( ! mat]ial1 o!rwise1 :5 ! wov5 b>s are put 91 !y w acc5tuate any mi/ake made4 ,! corn]s are 9 8laid0 /it*1 t is1 ! ?reads are /ret*$ loosely across f "o side ( ! squ>e to ! o!r1 horizontally1 !n v]tically--or vice v]s2 !y are !n sewn d[n at ! junctions ) t9y cross /it*es1 :i* requires "s c>e if ! squ>es are n to be displac$4 ,! r[s ( runn+ or tack+ /it*es acc5tuate ! oval 9 ! c5tre4 ,cut & draw ! ?reads = ! ne$le-weav+ aft] ! out] b& ( sat9 /it* has be5 work$4 ,! pla9 b>s %\ld be work$ 9 fir/1 z !y are simpl] 9 con/ruction4 ,:5 ^! pla9 b>s are f9i%$1 divide up ! /r&s into gr\ps ( sev5 = ! patt]n1 & "o gr\p ( eight--! latt] =ms ! />t & f9i% ( ! patt]n :i* %\ld h f\r gr\ps 9 ea*4 ,weave 9 all ! purple blocks to beg9 )2 ^!1 z may be se5 f ! illu/ration1 are wide/ at ! base4 ,weave ov] sev5 gr\ps = "o-eigh? ( ! space2 leave out a gr\p ( ?reads on ei!r side & weave ov] five2 !n ov] ?ree1 & !n ov] "o gr\p2 ea* /ep is fully "o-eigh? 9 height4 ,?is process is !n rev]s$1 & ! weav+ f9i%es at ! opposite side ov] sev5 gr\ps4 ,! />t & f9i% ov] f\r gr\ps c be foll[$ f ! illu/ration4 ,! c5tral figures alt]nat+ 9 gre5 & blue w !n be wov5 9 )\t difficulty4 ,! circles 9 ! c5tre are work$ 9 r[s ( sat9 /it*2 ! flat gre5 beads are surr\nd$ by ,fr5* knots 9 cream1 & ea* circle is surr\nd$ on ! out] edge by button-hol+ 9 blue ( a light] t9t ?an ! canvas4 ,useful ,h9ts4--,z a prelim9>y to ! embroid]y ( a piece ( "w comes ! putt+ on ( ! patt]n4 ,?is may be done 9 diff]5t ways1 b :i*ev] way is *os51 x is well to realise f ! outset t accuracy is ess5tial4 ,all possible c>e %\ld be tak5 ) ! draw+ on or trac+ ( ! patt]n or design2 all /raight l9es %\ld foll[ ! w>p & ! weft ( ! mat]ial1 :5 !y are visible--! slighte/ unev5ness causes unnecess>y tr\ble 9 ! aft]-work+4 ,transf]r+ ! ,design4--,z previ\sly m5tion$1 9 a design = co>se canvas a geometric patt]n may be put on ) a rul] & a *alk p5cil1 b z *alk gives a ?icki% blunt l9e & is also v easily rubb$ (f1 x is necess>y to fix ! design1 ei!r by runn+ x r\nd ) a ne$le & ?read1 or by tak+ a f9e bru% & go+ ov] ! *alk l9es ) ,*9ese :ite or oil pa9t ?9n$ ) turp5t9e4 ,ano!r me?od is to lay a %eet ( trac+ pap] ov] ! design & trace x ?r\gh cle>ly & accurately2 !n1 foll[+ ! plan ( ! little ones 9 ! k9d]g>t5 ) _! embroid]y c>ds1 lay ! trac$ design1 face up1 on a pad ( felt1 or on two or ?ree folds ( wooll5 mat]ial1 & prick little holes v closely toge!r1 along ! l9es ( ! design4 ,p\nc+4--,a ne$le or a f9e glass-head$ /eel p5 w s]ve z a prick]4 ,lay ! prick$ design face d[nw>ds on to ! mat]ial--:i* has previ\sly be5 p9n$ on to a draw+ bo>d2 fix ! trac+1 & ) a s(t pad dipp$ 9 p[d]$ *alk & *>coal rub lightly across ! holes f left to "r--keep always rubb+ 9 ! same direction2 on remov+ ! trac+1 ! patt]n %\ld be p]fectly cle>4 ,take a f9e bru% & g ov] ! design ) ,*9ese :ite or r$ oil pa9t ?9n$ ) turp5t9e2 ?is is call$ p\nc+4 ,! sup]flu\s *alk or *>coal w bl[ (f4 ,c>bon ,pap]4--,a simpl] me?od is to use c>bon pap]1 :i* may be _h 9 yell[1 blue & r$4 ,fix ! mat]ial on a bo>d & place ! design c>efully & ev5ly on to x4 ,secure ) draw+-p9s at ! top l9e--leave ! l[] "p free2 raise ! design--l a flap--& place ! c>bon pap]1 col\r d[nw>ds1 on to ! mat]ial1 !n p9 d[n ! l[] edges ( ! design4 ,d n put ! p9s ?r\gh ! c>bon pap] z !y leave an ugly m>k :]ev] pressure is appli$2 ?us r+s & bracelets %\ld be remov$ be=e trac+4 ,! upp] p9s keep ! design 9 position1 & progress may be not$ by remov+ ! l[] p9s & lift+ ! trac+ & ! c>bon pap] )\t di/urb+ ! position ( ! design4 ,yet ano!r way is to trace ! design ?r\gh on to a piece ( t>latan--an op5-me%$ musl92 ?is be+ done1 place ! t>latan ov] ! mat]ial1 take a draw+ p51 & ) ,indian ink run ov] ! l9es already !re4 ,if ?is is quickly done1 a cle> l9e %\ld %[ on ! mat]ial4 ,/ret*+4--,embroid]y sometimes gets r puck]$ :ile work+4 ,x c be mu* improv$1 n by iron+1 :i* is apt to flatt5 too mu*1 b by /ret*+4 ,simple ne$le-weav+ ) flat /it*]y may be laid on to two or ?ree folds ( blanket & press$ )\t h>m4 ,= mo/ o!r k9ds ( "w x is bett] to lay x face d[nw>ds on a bo>d :i* has already be5 cov]$ ) a napk9 or a f9e t[el2 fix x at regul> int]vals ) draw+-p9s1 & :ile do+ s /ret* ! mat]ial into its "r %ape1 if possible2 be c>eful n to /ret* x out ( %ape1 :i* w\ld be worse ?an ev]2 !n lay a damp clo? ov] ! "w1 leave x ov]-night to dry1 & ! puck]+ %\ld h disappe>$ by ! "t x is dry4 ,!re is really no ne$ to puck] "w if x is held prop]ly4 ,"s /it*es are m incl9$ to tight5 ?an o!rs1 b x is g5]ally :5 work+ across ! mat]ial t !y tight5 x4 ,! "w %\ld always be held 9 a convex position ov] ! f+]s1 & :5 work+ 9 wools--:i* are sometimes v ela/ic--! ne$le-work] %\ld see t ! ?reads lie easily ov] ! surface4 ,if ! backgr\nd appe>s r\nd$ at ! work$ "p on ! "u-side1 ! wools are too tightly /ra9$4 ,:5 mi/akes are made x is always wis] to cut !m out ?an to unpick--x does n h>m ! mat]ial 9 ! same way1 & x is n extravagant1 z ?reads are g5]ally too mu* r\gh5$ = use aft] unpick+4 ,knots1 z a rule1 %\ld be avoid$2 ?reads %\ld always be cut1 n brok5 (f4 ,! be/ way to comm5ce a new ?read is to run a few /it*es on ! "r side on a "p :i* w be cov]$ aft]w>ds by embroid]y4 ,?is keeps ! wrong side tidi]1 & ! ?reads m secure4 ,a long ?read does n make = good "w1 z a rule2 x gets r\gh5$ be=e x is f9i%$ & takes long] to pull ?r\gh4 ,braids & ?ick ?reads c be tak5 ?r\gh to ! wrong side by mak+ a hole ) a /iletto1 or by us+ a ne$le & ?read4 ,br+ ! ne$le ?r\gh ! hole & pass x r\nd ! braid1 !n pass x back ?r\gh ! same hole & pull ! braid ?r\gh ! hole ) x2 9 ! case ( a co>se ?read1 ! ne$le w make a l>ge en\gh hole4 ,9 work+ ) flax1 note ! direction ( ! fibre by draw+ x ?r\gh ! f+]s4 ,! ne$le %\ld be ?read$ at ! smoo? end1 s t :5 ! ?read is drawn ?r\gh ! mat]ial x is n r\gh5$4 ,9 work+ ) d\ble wool1 cotton1 or silk1 pass two sep>ate ?reads ?r\gh ! eye--bo? ?reads are !n runn+ ! same way4 ,always keep ! f9i%$ "p ( ! embroid]y cov]$ up :ile work+1 if possible2 x keeps x fre%] & ! ?reads d n get rubb$4 ,hot h&s discol\r ! ?reads1 r\gh5$ f+]s ruffle !m4 ,wa%+ 9 w>m wat] ) ! free use ( pumice /one w help 9 bo? cases4 ,wa%+ ,wooll5 ,embroid]ies4--,! soap %\ld be ( a good quality & free f alkali1 :i* injures ! col\rs4 ,flake ! soap & dissolve x 9 boil+ wat]2 :ip x into a la!r2 add cold wat] until x is ( a com=table heat = ! h&s1 & put ! embroid]y 94 ,squeeze & "w x g5tly--b on no acc\nt rub x--until x is clean1 !n r9se 9 w>m wat]1 & aga9 9 cool] wat]2 squeeze ! wat] out2 hang up imm$iately--9 ! op5 air1 if possible2 dry quickly & p9 out on a bo>d1 & iron damp on ! wrong side on a fold$ blanket4 ,:ite "w may be wa%$ 9 a la!r ( ,lux--any soap :i* does n conta9 alkali may be us$4 ,proce$ z = col\r$ "w1 squeez+ ! dirt out1 n rubb+2 r9se & /ret* ov] a t[el or put 9 ! op5 air till almo/ dry4 ,x is !n laid face d[nw>ds on sev]al folds ( blanket1 a damp clo? plac$ ov] x1 & a hot iron pass$ backw>ds & =w>ds until x is q dry--! clo? prev5ts ! iron f soil+ ! mat]ial on ! back & equalises ! moi/ure4 ,velvet %\ld be held :ile be+ press$1 or ! iron %\ld be fix$ face up & ! velvet pass$ ov] x4 ,all wools %\ld be %runk be=e be+ work$ on to articles su* z sa% curta9s & cov]lets1 :i* require wa%+4 ,/eep !m 9 a ba? ( hot wat] = "s h\rs2 hang !m up--9 ! hank--to drip2 :5 dry1 !y w be z s(t z :5 new4 ,braids %\ld be subject$ to ! same treatm5t--!y may probably lose a v little col\r if !y are n reliable ( _! k9d4 ,practical ,h9ts ab\t ,mat]ials4--,!re is sometimes difficulty 9 obta9+ ?reads & mat]ials ( a co>se make & weave suitable = c>ry+ out articles simil> to ^? illu/rat$ ?r\gh\t ! book4 ,a %ort li/ ( ! names ( firms :]e su* may be b\ght is giv5 bel[ = ! b5efit ( read]s4 ,canvases & cra%es p>ticul>ly suit$ to ne$le-weav+ may be obta9$ f ,messrs4 ,br[n & ,bev]idge1 ,ltd41 #aid1 ,ba? ,/reet1 ,glasg[4 ,^! are ( good quality1 9 great v>iety & excell5t col\r+4 ,titian canvas1 "o ( ! heavie/ makes1 is v suitable = runn]s1 table cov]s & l>ge objects g5]ally2 x may be _h 9 ?ree wid?s1 #bg in*es1 #ej in*es & #gb in*es1 9 mole1 blue & s(t br[n4 ,art canvas & antique canvas1 bo? ( a regul> weave 9 quiet col\rs1 are light] 9 make4 ,9 v&yke canvases ! w>p & weft ?reads1 :i* are ( diff]5t col\rs1 bl5d v h>moni\sly4 ,art l95s & bloom l95s are *>m+2 ! latt] are wov5 9 two col\rs4 ,celtic canvas 9 cream1 fawn1 r$1 gre51 & a beautiful ri* blue1 are gu>ante$ fa/ dy$4 ,cotton repps & ,sund\r unfadeable mat]ials are also suitable & useful = h\sehold decoration4 ,messrs4 ,br[n & ,bev]idge1 ,ltd41 also supply tape/ry & crewel wools & a s(t ?ick silk ?read kn[n z ,tyrian embroid]y silk4 ,l95s ( diff]5t makes & col\rs c be obta9$ s easily t x is n necess>y to m5tion any special firm4 ,heavy unblea*$ l95 %eet+s & t[ell+s c be procur$ f "s ( ! ,iri% l95 manufactur]s4 ,messrs4 ,murphy & ,orr1 ,donegal ,/reet1 ,belfa/1 make a heavy twill unblea*$ l95 to be recomm5d$ = cov]lets4 ,messrs4 ,j4 & ,j4 ,baldw9 & ,p>tn]s1 ,ltd41 supply1 ?r\gh _! v>i\s ag5ts1 wools & y>ns ( a s(t quality & 9 excell5t ranges ( col\r4 8,:ite ,hea!r10 ?ree-ply1 & a ?ick] 8,ra9b[0 embroid]y wool1 sold 9 balls1 are bo? good4 ,f+]+ wools1 ?ree1 f\r & five-ply1 9 light col\rs1 may be _h f any ( ! num]\s ,scot* wool %ops--,messrs4 ,flem+ & ,reid1 ,gre5ock4 ,messrs4 ,w4 & ,j4 ,knox1 ,ltd41 ,kilbirnie1 manufacture l95 & lace cro*et ?reads 9 cream1 ecru & ,p>is :ite1 also l95 floss embroid]y ?reads 9 a wide range ( beautiful col\rs4 ,l4,c4 l95 lace ?read 9 v>i\s ?icknesses1 numb]+ f #h to #gj4 ,! m$ium sizes f #ce to #ej are suitable = ! backgr\nd ( ,rhodian embroid]y4 8,cord0 floss1 a ?ick twi/$ ?read1 is suitable = knitt+2 hats1 coll>s1 %ort jump]s1 bags1 etc41 may be made f x4 ,messrs4 ,kirkby1 ,be>d ,co41 ,r$dit*1 supply ne$les ( a reliable quality4 ,blunt-po9t$ tape/ry ne$les1 ,no4 #ah1 suitable = ne$le-weav+1 crewel & *5ille ne$les1 & ! excell5t 8,sci5tific ,%>ps0 may be _h f mo/ ( ! ne$lework depots1 or ?r\gh any ( _! ag5ts4 ,simple wood5 looms = ! mak+ ( braids1 hat b&s1 ties1 girdles1 etc41 ) in/ructions & ) a piece ( "w />t$1 may be _h f ! ,dryad ,works1 #db1 ,ni*olas ,/reet1 ,leice/]4 ,! same firm supplies raffia 9 brilliant col\rs & raffia ne$les4 ,,index ,am]ican clo?1 #adc ,antique hem/it*1 #gc ,antique seam1 #if ,appli$ "w1 #hj ,arr[-head fill+1 #ca ,art & craft1 #e ,art canvas1 #agg ,backgr\nd1 op51 #aje ,backgr\nds1 #be1 #bi1 #hb1 #ajd ,back /it*+1 #aeb ,bag1 a useful1 #aec ,bag1 "w1 #afi ,bags1 #acb ,balance1 #bc ,b&s1 ne$le-wov51 #aje ,basket1 ,japanese1 #afi ,basket or /roke /it*1 #ga ,basket patt]n1 #cc1 #gj ,basket /it*1 #fg to "w1 #ga ,baskets1 #acb ,beads1 #ai1 #bh ,blanket1 ,scotti%1 #i ,blanket /it*1 to "w1 #eh ,bokh>a embroid]ies1 #ag ,bord]1 #abi diap]$1 #fj geometrical1 #abd int]lac+1 #aea patt]n1 #ai /it*1 #aea v&yke1 #cj ,braid hat b&1 #acc ,braid1 ,honiton1 #add ,braid /it*1 #ec ,braids1 #bh1 #gf1 #hi1 #aai ,braids1 h&-made1 #bh1 #aag ,brocade1 #af ,build+ up ( ! patt]n1 #f ,bullion knots1 #hc ,bullion /it*1 #hd ,button-hole /it*es1 #ef b>s1 #hf cross$1 #eh d\ble1 #fa edg+1 #aej fill+ ( a space1 #ei loops1 op51 #aci pyramid1 #ajg r+s1 #abb ,button-hole /it*1 fl[]s 91 #ei ,button-hole /it*1 leaves 91 #fa ,buttons1 #bh ,buttons1 inde/ructible1 #abc ,cable *a91 #eb ,cable *a91 to "w1 #eb ,canvas1 #h1 #fg1 #abi1 #aca1 #acb1 #agg ,canvas /it*es1 #aca ,c>bon pap]1 #agc ,c>pet *5illes1 #aj ,c>rick b5d1 #abe ,celtic canvas1 #abi ,c5tral fill+s1 #abb ,*a9 /it*1 #de1 #gi1 #abf1 #adc 9 two col\rs1 #dg to "w1 #df twi/$1 #de ,*5illes1 c>pet1 #aj ,*equ]$ f]n /it*1 #ge ,*equ]$ patt]n1 #gj1 #aja ,*equ]$ patt]n1 to "w1 #gj ,*equ]s1 #bi ,*9ese knot1 #abf ,circles1 #bb1 #gi ,col\r1 #ab-ag ,col\r1 juxtaposition (1 #af ,col\r1 re/ful1 #ad ,col\r s*eme1 #f1 #hj ,col\rs1 six bright1 #ae ,col\rs1 w>m1 #ac ,common s5se1 #f ,con/ruction1 #f1 #bj ,cool col\rs1 #ad ,cope1 ,jesse1 #hb ,cope1 ,syon1 #hb ,coptic "w1 #dj ,coral /it*1 #dh ,cords1 #ff ,cords1 h&-made1 #bg ,corn]s1 #bj ,cosy cov]1 #aab ,cot cov]let1 #ach ,c\*+1 #fh1 #gi ,c\*+1 anci5t me?od (1 #ha ,cra%1 ,russian1 #i1 #cg ,cretan /it*1 #ea ,cretonne1 #af ,cro*et1 #fi1 #aee a useful cord1 #afa *a9 slip-knot1 #aef d\ble /it*1 #aeg dropp+ picots1 #afd fl[]s1 #aeh hooks1 #gh1 #aeh ins]tion1 an1 #aff lace picots1 #afd ladd] ins]tion1 #aeg leaves1 #afj long treble /it*1 #aeg me%1 #afe picots1 #afc1 #afe pla9 picots1 #afd raffia1 #afg s+le /it*1 #aef treble /it*1 #aeg tricot1 #afb two-*a9 picots1 #afd ,cross$ button-hole1 #eh ,cross /it*1 #aja1 #acj1 #aca ,cross /it*1 ,italian1 #acj ,curta91 "p ( a1 #ee ,curv+ l9es1 #bc ,cu%ion case1 #agj ,cut "w1 #acf ,damask1 #h ,damask d>n+1 #cb ,d>n+ patt]ns1 #bi ,d>n+1 s+le1 #cc ,d>n+ /it*es1 #bi1 #ajf ,d>ns1 lat*et1 #ff1 #agj ,decorative back /it*1 #fa ,decorative initials1 #aaa ,design1 #ba ,design1 habit (1 #e ,design1 transf]r+ !1 #agb ,designs1 int]lac+1 #ij1 #abg ,diagonal fill+1 #cd ,diagonal l9es1 #ba1 #gi ,diap]$ bord]1 #fj ,dom9ant col\r1 #af ,d\ble button-hole1 #fa ,d\ble-net /it*1 #add ,draw+1 #e ,drawn "w1 ,italian1 #acg ,ea/]n embroid]]s1 #fi ,ecclesia/ical embroid]ies1 #a ,edg+s1 #i1 #bg1 #abb1 #adi ,embroid]]s1 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