,,jewels and the ,,woman by ,marianne ,,ostier ,,jewels and the ,,woman ,the ,romance1 ,magic and ,art of ,feminine ,adornment ,,horizon ,,press ,new ,york ,note3 ,for centuries it has been the custom for jewelers to identify their designs by stamping their hallmark on jewels4 ,the reproduction on page #bj is of ,marianne ,ostier's hallmark4 ,unless otherwise noted in the captions1 jewels here reproduced have been designed by ,marianne ,ostier4 ,all jewels are illustrated in actual size1 with the exception of the portraits and ,illustration #ag4 99 99 99 99 99 ,credits and ,acknowledgments3 ,the author wishes to thank all the people who have given time1 information and encouragement to the work on this book4 ,particular thanks are due ,mr4 ,george ,d4 ,skinner of ,n4 ,w4 ,ayer ,son ,inc4 for supplying invaluable information2 ,miss ,dorothy ,dignam1 of the same firm1 for her inspiring enthusiasm and knowledge2 ,mr4 ,lansford ,f4 ,king1 publisher of the ,jewelers' ,circular ,keystone1 for his endless confidence in the work which made the completion of this book possible2 and ,mr4 ,albert ,e4 ,haase1 president of the ,jewelry ,industry ,council1 for the many helpful facts from his special fund of knowledge4 ,for contributing to the visual quality of this book1 grateful acknowledgment is made to the ,jewelry ,industry ,council for the frontispiece colorplates2 ,the ,metropolitan ,museum of ,art for ,illustrations #a through #h2 the ,british ,information ,service for ,illustrations #aa1 #ab and #ae2 and ,trude ,fleischmann for ,illustrations #bh and #bi4 99 99 99 99 99 #aieh by ,marianne ,ostier ,library of ,congress ,catalog ,card ,number3 #eh-ajbbd ,manufactured in the ,united ,states of ,america ,all original designs as well as the text by ,marianne ,ostier are protected by copyright and may not be copied or reproduced without permission in writing from the author and publisher4 ,,the ,,birthstones ,illustration3 ,garnet ,,january ,illustration3 ,amethyst ,,february ,illustration3 ,aquamarine ,,march ,illustration3 ,diamond ,,april ,illustration3 ,emerald ,,may ,illustration3 ,pearl ,alexandrite ,,june ,illustration3 ,ruby ,,july ,illustration3 ,peridot ,,august ,illustration3 ,sapphire ,,september ,illustration3 ,opal ,tourmaline ,,october ,illustration3 ,topaz ,,november ,illustration3 ,turquoise ,zircon ,,december ,contents ,foreword #ag ,,part #a3 ,jewels3 ,history1 ,character1 ,magic ,chapter #a3 ,the ,story of ,jewels #bc ,,the ,,earliest ,,uses #bc ,,egypt ,,and ,,the ,,near ,,east #bf ,,westward ,,to ,,the ,,greeks #bi ,,etruscan ,,achievements #cj ,,the ,,roman ,,conquest #ca ,,the ,,vogue ,,of ,,the ,,pearl #da ,,roman ,,luxury #db ,,the ,,tide ,,turns ,,east #db ,,eastward ,,to ,,india #dc ,,over ,,the ,,chinese ,,wall #dd ,,dark ,,age ,,of ,,the ,,diamond #de ,,tribes ,,to ,,the ,,north #de ,,the ,,celts ,,and ,,the ,,emerald ,,isle #df ,,the ,,anglo-,,saxons #dg ,,jewels ,,in ,,english ,,history #dg ,,edward ,,the ,,confessor',s ,,jewels #dh ,,growth ,,of ,,the ,,goldsmiths' ,,guild #dh ,,the ,,italians ,,in ,,the ,,renaissance #di ,,the ,,renaissance ,,across ,,europe #ej ,,the ,,reformation #ea ,,the ,,eighteenth ,,century #eb ,,on ,,the ,,romantics #ec ,,into ,,the ,,nineteenth ,,century #ed ,,the ,,twentieth ,,century #ee ,chapter #b3 ,what the ,stones ,are #eg ,,what ,,the ,,stones ,,are #eg ,,the ,,gems #eh ,,diamond #eh ,,ruby #fj ,,sapphire #fb ,,emerald #fc ,,pearl #fd ,,other ,,stones #fg ,,alexandrite #fh ,,amethyst #fh ,,aquamarine #fi ,,beryl #fi ,,carnelian #gj ,,cat',s-,,eye #gj ,,chalcedony #ga ,,chrysoberyl #ga ,,chrysolite #ga ,,chrysoprase #gb ,,citrine #gb ,,coral #gb ,,garnet #gc ,,hyacinth #gd ,,jacinth #gd ,,jade #gd ,,jasper #ge ,,jet #ge ,,kunzite #gf ,,lapis ,,lazuli #gf ,,malachite #gg ,,moonstone #gg ,,onyx #gg ,,opal #gh ,,peridot #gi ,,quartz #gi ,,sard #hj ,,sardonyx #hj ,,spinel #hj ,,topaz #ha ,,tourmaline #ha ,,turquoise #hb ,,zircon #hb ,chapter #c3 ,birthstones and the ,magic of ,gems #hc ,,the ,,seasons #hc ,,the ,,days ,,of ,,the ,,week #hd ,,sunday #hd ,,monday #hd ,,tuesday #he ,,wednesday #he ,,thursday #he ,,friday #hf ,,saturday #hf ,,the ,,months #hg ,,table ,,of ,,birthstones #hg ,,january--,,garnet #hh ,,february--,,amethyst #hi ,,march--,,aquamarine #ij ,,april--,,diamond #ia ,,may--,,emerald #ib ,,june--,,pearl #id ,,july--,,ruby #if ,,august--,,sardonyx ,,or ,,peridot #ig ,,september--,,sapphire #ii ,,october--,,opal #ajj ,,november--,,topaz #ajb ,,december--,,turquoise #ajd ,,signs ,,of ,,the ,,stars #aac ,,the ,,zodiac #aac ,,aries1 ,,the ,,ram #aad ,,taurus1 ,,the ,,bull #aad ,,gemini1 ,,the ,,twins #aae ,,cancer1 ,,the ,,crab #aae ,,leo1 ,,the ,,lion #aae ,,virgo1 ,,the ,,virgin #aae ,,libra1 ,,the ,,scales #aaf ,,scorpio1 ,,the ,,scorpion #aaf ,,sagittarius1 ,,the ,,archer #aaf ,,capricorn1 ,,the ,,goat #aaf ,,aquarius1 ,,the ,,water ,,carrier #aag ,,pisces1 ,,the ,,fishes #aag ,,part #b3 ,the ,art of ,feminine ,adornment ,chapter #d3 ,the ,art of ,feminine ,adornment #aba ,,royal ,,crowns ,,of ,,britain #abb ,,everywoman',s ,,queen #abc ,a ,,stone',s ,,best ,,setting #abc ,,types ,,of ,,women #abd ,,the ,,major ,,metals #abe ,,the ,,basic ,,designs #abe ,chapter #e3 ,the ,earclip #abg ,,the ,,supreme ,,importance ,,of ,,the ,,earclip #abg ,,earrings ,,through ,,the ,,ages #abg ,,the ,,significance ,,of ,,the ,,ears #abi ,,the ,,earclip ,,and ,,the ,,facial ,,contour #acj ,,the ,,shape ,,of ,,your ,,face #aca ,,details ,,of ,,the ,,face #acb ,,versatile ,,earclips #acc ,,the ,,hair ,,and ,,the ,,earclip #acc ,,the ,,brunette #acd ,,the ,,dark-,,haired #acd ,,the ,,redhead #ace ,,the ,,blonde #ace ,,as ,,the ,,hair ,,turns ,,grey #acf ,,important ,,considerations ,,in ,,selecting ,,earclips #acf ,chapter #f3 ,the ,necklace #aci ,,the ,,symbolism ,,of ,,the ,,necklace #aci ,,the ,,general ,,effect #adj ,,the ,,diamond ,,necklace #ada ,,the ,,rivi,,re #ada ,,the ,,baguette ,,necklace #adb ,,the ,,pearl ,,necklace #adb ,,the ,,colors ,,of ,,the ,,pearl #adc ,,for ,,the ,,brunette #adc ,,for ,,the ,,blonde ,,and ,,the ,,redhead #add ,,for ,a ,,long ,,neck #add ,,for ,a ,,wide ,,neck #ade ,,size ,,of ,,pearls #ade ,,the ,,proper ,,stringing ,,of ,,pearls #ade ,,the ,,necklace ,,clasp #adf ,,designs ,,for ,,clasps #adf ,,for ,,formal ,,wear #adg ,,the ,,sentimental ,,clasp #adh ,,fitting ,,the ,,pearl ,,necklace #adh ,,the ,,bead ,,necklace #adi ,,fashions ,,from ,,india #adi ,,other ,,necklace ,,jewels #aej ,,the ,,necklace ,,of ,,gold #aea ,,appendages3 ,,the ,,tassel #aeb ,,appendages3 ,,the ,,single ,,drop #aeb ,,transformations #aec ,,my ,,own ,,conversions #aec ,,what ,a ,,woman ,,wears1 ,,others ,,see #aed ,chapter #g3 ,the ,ring #aeg ,,the ,,giving ,,of ,a ,,ring #aeg ,,consider ,,the ,,hand #aeh ,,proportions ,,of ,,the ,,hand #aeh ,,the ,,diamond ,,ring3 ,,the ,,engagement ,,ring #aei ,,the ,,wedding ,,ring #afj ,,the ,,wearing ,,of ,,the ,,band #afa ,,the ,,pearl ,,ring #afb ,,the ,,black ,,pearl #afb ,,decorative ,,rings #afc ,,matched ,,with ,,earclips #afd ,,interchangeable ,,centers #afd ,,ring ,,sizes #afe ,,rings ,,and ,,nail ,,polish #aff ,,about ,,wearing ,a ,,ring #aff ,chapter #h3 ,the ,bracelet #afi ,,early ,,uses #afi ,,the ,,emperors ,,of ,,india #afi ,,various ,,materials #agj ,,types ,,of ,,bracelets #agj ,,favorite ,,shapes #aga ,,the ,,special ,,clasp #aga ,,bracelet ,,width #agb ,,for ,,the ,,slim ,,arm #agb ,,for ,,the ,,heavier ,,wrist #agb ,,fitting ,a ,,bracelet #agc ,,general ,,thoughts #agc ,,the ,,anklet #agd ,chapter #i3 ,pins1 ,brooches and ,clips #age ,,elaborate ,,pins #age ,,the ,,simpler ,,clip #agf ,,its ,,versatility #agf ,,its ,,personality #ahe ,,the ,,change ,,in ,,the ,,brooch #ahe ,,the ,,old ,,double ,,clip #ahf ,,the ,,new ,,double ,,clip #ahg ,,the ,,abstract ,,design #ahg ,,the ,,flower ,,design #ahh ,,earlier ,,flowers #ahi ,,current ,,varieties #aij ,,the ,,rose #aij ,,the ,,skinpin #aia ,,the ,,scatterpin #aia ,,the ,,jewelled ,,hairpin #aib ,,the ,,mobile ,,clip #aib ,,the ,,sentimental ,,brooch #aic ,,replicas ,,of ,,pets #aid ,,pins ,,hold ,,memories #aid ,,practical ,,principles #aie ,chapter #aj3 ,watches #aig ,,queen ,,elizabeth ,i #aig ,,princess ,,sophia #aig ,,early ,,forms #aih ,,where ,,to ,,wear ,,the ,,watch #aii ,,jewelled ,,hours #bjj ,,in ,,front ,,of ,,your ,,mirror #bjb ,,part #c3 ,the ,etiquette of ,wearing ,jewels ,chapter #aa3 ,the ,etiquette of ,wearing ,jewels #bjg ,,en ,,route #bjh ,,weekend #bjh ,,garden ,,party #bji ,,the ,,beach #bji ,,on ,,the ,,golf ,,course #baj ,,at ,,the ,,races #baj ,,business ,,luncheons #baa ,,the ,,charity ,,luncheon #bab ,,opening ,,night #bab ,,matching ,,the ,,gown #bac ,,matching ,,the ,,man #bac ,,some ,,basic ,,rules #bad ,,the ,,dinner ,,party #bae ,,the ,,watch #baf ,,the ,,cigarette ,,case #baf ,,the ,,hostess #baf ,,at ,,the ,,white ,,house #bag ,,the ,,president',s ,,dinner #bah ,,the ,,captain',s ,,dinner #bah ,,embassy ,,parties #bbj ,,meeting ,,royalty #bba ,,coronation #bba ,a ,,queen',s ,,crown #bbb ,,when ,,every ,,woman ,,is ,,queen #bbc ,,the ,,bridesmaids #bbd ,,the ,,mother ,,of ,,the ,,bride #bbe ,,the ,,wedding ,,guests #bbe ,,the ,,newborn #bbf ,,the ,,anniversary #bbg ,,table ,,of ,,anniversary ,,gifts #bbg ,,the ,,more ,,solemn ,,time #bbh ,,audience ,,with ,,the ,,pope #bbi ,,in ,,mourning #bbi ,,other ,,observations #bcj ,,color ,,combinations #bcj ,,restraint #bcj ,,eyeglasses #bca ,,the ,,lorgnette #bca ,,the ,,corsage #bcb ,,embroidery #bcb ,,more ,,about ,,bracelets #bcb ,,more ,,about ,,rings #bcd ,,gold ,,jewels #bcd ,,in ,,the ,,spotlight #bcd ,chapter #ab3 ,jewels as ,gifts #bcg ,,give ,,yourself #bcg ,,gifts ,,of ,,lasting ,,value #bch ,,gifts ,,to ,,the ,,baby #bch ,,to ,,the ,,mother ,,too #bci ,,as ,,the ,,child ,,grows #bci ,,st4 ,,valentine',s ,,day #bci ,,college ,,days #bdj ,,the ,,wedding ,,day #bdj ,,for ,,the ,,bridesmaids #bda ,,for ,,the ,,ushers #bda ,,other ,,gifts ,,to ,,the ,,bride #bdb ,,parents' ,,days #bdb ,,for ,,later ,,birthdays #bdc ,,gifts ,,for ,,the ,,man #bdd ,,the ,,wife',s ,,role #bdd ,,the ,,right ,,accessories #bde ,,the ,,personal ,,touch #bde ,,special ,,gifts #bdf ,,historic ,,gifts #bdf ,,the ,,presentation ,,of ,a ,,gift #bdg ,,part #d3 ,the ,techniques and ,care of ,jewels ,chapter #ac3 ,the ,techniques of ,gems #bei ,,definitions #bei ,,light ,,on ,,the ,,stones #bfj ,,star ,,gems #bfj ,,the ,,pearl #bfa ,,cutting ,,the ,,stones #bfa ,,cabochon #bfb ,,facets #bfb ,,types ,,of ,,faceting #bfc ,,hardness ,,of ,,the ,,stones #bfd ,,qualities ,,of ,a ,,stone #bfg ,,measurement #bfh ,,the ,,precious ,,metals #bfh ,,alloys #bfi ,chapter #ad3 ,the ,care of ,jewels #bga ,,how ,,to ,,care ,,for ,,jewels #bga ,,home ,,care #bga ,,cleaning ,,don',,ts #bgb ,,pearls #bgb ,,reminders #bgc ,,more ,,cautioning #bgd ,,for ,,travel #bgd ,,insurance #bge ,,the ,,traveling ,,case #bge ,,registering ,,jewels #bgf ,,traveling ,,cautions #bgg ,chapter #ae3 ,jewelry ,up to ,date #bgi ,,the ,,old ,,and ,,the ,,antique #bgi ,,old ,,jewelry ,,with ,,new ,,possibilities #bhj ,,the ,,contemporary ,,jewels #bha ,,modern ,,movement #bha ,,the ,,jeweler ,,as ,,artist #bhc ,,varied ,,stones #bhc ,,varied ,,treatment #bhd ,,remodelling ,,of ,,watches #bhe ,,adding ,,pearls #bhe ,,infinite ,,riches ,,in ,a ,,little ,,room #bhf ,,part #e3 ,the ,story of ,rings and ,famous ,stones ,chapter #af3 ,romance of ,rings #bhi ,,the ,,universal ,,ring #bhi ,,the ,,magic ,,ring #bhi ,,divining ,,rings #bij ,,renaissance ,,remedy ,,rings #bia ,,visibility ,,rings #bib ,,religious ,,rings #bic ,,practical ,,rings #bid ,,poison ,,rings #bie ,,honorary ,,rings #bif ,,posies ,,and ,,lovers' ,,rings #bif ,,the ,,nuptial ,,ring #bih ,,less ,,solemn ,,marriage ,,rings #bii ,,counting ,,fingers #cja ,,memorial ,,rings #cjb ,chapter #ag3 ,some ,famous ,stones #cje ,,the ,,black ,,prince',s ,,ruby #cje ,,other ,,precious ,,stones #cjf ,,the ,,crystal ,,palace #cjg ,,the ,,diamonds #cjg ,,the ,,kohinoor #cjh ,,tavernier #caj ,,the ,,florentine #caj ,,the ,,great ,,mogul #caa ,,the ,,orloff #caa ,,the ,,shah ,,of ,,persia #cab ,,the ,,great ,,table #cac ,,the ,,blue ,,tavernier #cac ,,the ,,hope #cad ,,the ,,jehan ,,akbar ,,shah #cae ,,the ,,cullinan #cae ,,the ,,excelsior #caf ,,the ,,regent #caf ,,the ,,sancy #cah ,,out ,,of ,,the ,,earth #cai ,list of ,illustrations ,frontispiece ,,the ,,birthstones1 ,,colorplates ,following ,page #cb #a4 ,,greek ,,earrings1 #e,,th ,,century ,b4,c4 #b4 ,,cypriote ,,pendant1 #h,,th ,,century ,b4,c4 #c4 ,,early #ah,,th ,,century ,,italian ,,brooch #d4 ,,egyptian ,,bracelet1 #d,,th ,,century ,b4,c4 #e4 ,,etruscan ,,ring #f4 #ah,,th ,,century ,,italian ,,ring #g4 ,,cypriote ,,ring #h4 ,,roman ,,wreath1 #c,,rd ,,century ,b4,c4 #i4 ,,inside ,,view ,,of ,,the ,,famous ,,old ,,tiffany ,,store1 ,,new ,,york1 #ahge #aj4 ,,the ,,crowning ,,of ,a ,,queen #aa4 ,,the ,,british ,,crown ,,jewels #ab4 ,,the ,,british ,,crown ,,jewels #ac4 ,,remodelling ,,the ,,imperial ,,state ,,crown #ad4 ,,empress ,,elisabeth ,,of ,,austria ,following ,page #ajd #ae4 ,,queen ,,elizabeth ,,ii #af4 ,,pearl ,,and ,,baguette ,,diamond ,,earclips #ag4 ,,deep ,,sea ,,algae #ah4 ,,double ,,rose ,,clip #ai4 ,,diamond ,,and ,,pearl ,,leaves #bj4 ,,pearl ,,and ,,diamond ,,necklace #ba4 ,,pearl ,,ring #bb4 ,,queen ,,geraldine ,,of ,,albania #bc4 ,,diamond ,,necklace #bd4 ,,diamonds ,,caught ,,in ,a ,,net #be4 ,,necklace ,,for ,a ,,bride #bf4 ,,diamond ,,pincushion ,,ornament #bg4 ,,diamond ,,pincushion ,,ornament #bh4 ,,marianne ,,ostier ,following ,page #agf #bi4 ,,mrs4 ,,frederic ,,gimbel #cj4 ,,bellflower ,,brooch ,,and ,,earclips #ca4 ,,bracelet ,,and ,,engagement ,,ring #cb4 ,,design ,,for ,a ,,diamond ,,ring #cc4 ,,design ,,for ,a ,,gold ,,ring #cd4 ,,design ,,for ,a ,,formal ,,diamond ,,and ,,platinum ,,bracelet #ce4 ,,diamond ,,and ,,pearl ,,bracelet #cf4 ,,design ,,for ,a ,,bracelet #cg4 ,,tree ,,of ,,life #ch4 ,,design ,,for ,a ,,multi-,,purpose ,,jewel #ci4 ,,aurora ,,borealis #dj4 ,,flower ,,fantasy #da4 ,,diamond ,,hair ,,ornament #db4 ,,three-,,strand ,,pearl ,,bracelet #dc4 ,,miss ,,blanche ,,thebom #dd4 ,,canterbury ,,bell #de4 ,,gold ,,shell ,,for ,,informal ,,wear #df4 ,,flower ,,lapel ,,brooch #dg4 ,,mrs4 ,,tex ,,mc ,,crary ,following ,page #bef #dh4 ,,portrait ,,of ,h4 ,h4 ,,indira ,,devi #di4 ,,spray ,,pin ,,design #ej4 ,,design ,,for ,a ,,diamond ,,cup #ea4 ,,design ,,for ,a ,,double ,,clip #eb4 ,,design ,,for ,a ,,gold ,,and ,,diamond ,,pin #ec4 ,,portrait ,,of ,,flippy #ed4 ,,florian #ee4 ,,set ,,of ,,earclips ,,and ,,brooch #ef4 ,,gold ,,and ,,diamond ,,watch #eg4 ,,pearl ,,necklace ,,with ,,two ,,diamond ,,motifs #eh4 ,,table ,,of ,,diamonds #ei4 ,,models ,,of ,,the ,,kohinoor ,,diamond #fj4 ,,gold ,,cigar ,,box ,foreword 8,diamonds10 the song goes1 8are a girl's best friend40 ,take special note of the sex2 it is significant4 ,for only among humans has the female increasingly become the adorned sex4 ,the mane of the lion or of the stallion gives the male a magnificence beyond the competence of the lioness or the mare4 ,it is the peacock that spreads the studded glory of its tail--not the peahen4 ,as among the birds and beasts1 so primitive man was the resplendent sex1 while his mate went about her task1 in more subdued and humble tones4 ,by the time of the ,renaissance--it took that long in civilization's climb--men and women were about equal in their adornment4 ,in ,europe1 indeed1 only men wore diamonds until #addd1 when ,king ,charles ,,vii of ,france 7whom ,joan of ,arc had placed upon the throne7 was captivated by ,agnes ,sorel's beauty and daring1 when she appeared in a superb necklace of diamonds4 ,the diamond at once became the prized gem of womankind4 ,the costumes and jewels of the courtiers of ,elizabeth ,i of ,england were surpassed by those of the ,queen only in the measure of her superior station4 ,since then1 however1 the attire of men has grown increasingly functional1 sedate1 and commonplace1 while that of women has retained its freedom of color and flow4 ,and the great world of jewelry is preeminently the woman's domain4 ,scientists in several fields have sought the reasons for this change2 we may rest content with the fact4 ,a man may be thought distinguished1 or perhaps handsome2 only a woman may be called beautiful4 ,and by proper adornment of apparel and jewelry1 every woman seeks to enhance her beauty4 ,certain austere sects frown upon 8artificial0 aids to beauty4 ,in the hills of ,pennsylvania are honest women whose lips and cheeks have never been touched by added color4 ,but such persons are outside the main path of human progress4 ,for the quest of beauty--surely a legitimate and a desirable quest--has taken the same path as the other great adventures of man1 which have placed him supreme among all living creatures4 ,look at the problem of security4 ,the bear can strike a tremendous blow with his paw4 ,the tiger springs with fierce gash of fang and claw4 ,the eagle pounces with deadly talon and beak4 ,beside these1 how puny the fist of man6 ,but the bear1 the tiger1 the eagle remain with but these weapons1 while man closed his tiny hand around a club1 then hurled a spear1 then winged his bow with arrows1 shot forth his bullets and his bombs4 ,while the animals mark a dead end of evolution1 man continued to evolve by 8artificial0 extensions of his powers4 ,the same is true in every field4 ,the news of the victory of ,marathon was borne by a runner1 who coursed the twenty-four miles1 gasped out his word of triumph1 and dropped dead4 ,since then man has harnessed the ox1 mounted the horse1 and surpassed all other creatures in means of travel upon and within the waters1 across the earth1 high and higher in the air4 ,so in the realm of beauty4 ,first man painted his naked body4 ,then he adorned himself with claws and teeth torn from the animals1 with feathers plucked from the birds4 ,soon he discovered the sheen of precious metals1 the sparkle of gems4 ,the progress of adornment1 from ancient ,egypt to the twentieth century world1 has been marked by the further discovery and refinement of metals and the design of jewels4 ,synthetic gems and costume jewelry have given to every woman opportunities once limited to the wealthy few2 the principles applicable to the wearing of costly jewels are the same for their less expensive cousins4 ,and the pattern of the quest of personal beauty is in line with the general pattern of human evolution4 ,although we have approached beauty through these somewhat solemn reflections1 we must not forget that the best reflection of beauty is in the admiring eye of the beholder4 ,it is a mutual pleasure2 but it is a personal1 an individual task4 ,for it is every woman's duty--not merely to herself but to those around--to present her fairest aspect to the world4 ,to the old remark3 ,love is blind1 the cynic has added3 ,but marriage is an eye-opener4 ,of course1 neither statement is true4 ,while love may fasten upon and prize other qualities1 the lover is usually keenly aware of the measure of his beloved's beauty4 ,he takes increasing pride and pleasure as she finds fresh ways of enhancing her natural gifts4 ,there is a lesson hidden in the statement that if a woman is beautiful at fifteen she may thank ,god1 but if she is beautiful at fifty she has herself to thank4 ,the lesson is that a woman can learn what is seemly1 what is becoming1 what adds to her beauty4 ,one may look at precious stones and magnificent jewels ranged in a museum or in a store4 ,when they are being worn1 we look not so much at them as at the ensemble they help to create of a live alluring woman4 ,the ,crown ,jewels in the ,tower of ,london are imposing4 ,when they are worn on occasions of state1 the court regalia combine to keep them imposing still3 it is less a person than a position that they adorn4 ,but with the rest of us mortals1 as even with queens in less stately hours1 the jewels must fit the person and the personality1 as well as the occasion4 ,what looks most attractive against the dark velvet on a counter may fail to harmonize with golden glinting hair4 ,the size of the earlobe1 the figure of the woman1 the color of the dress1 the activity of the evening1 all are factors in determining which jewels one should wear4 ,jewels have a long history1 but always an immediate test of use4 ,in both aspects1 they hold an ever present allure4 ,,marianne ,,ostier ,illustration ,,part ,,one ,illustration ,jewels3 ,history1 ,character1 ,magic ,,chapter #a ,the ,story of ,jewels ,the ,earliest ,uses ,there are as many guesses about the origin of adornment as about the origin of language4 ,the most popular theories might be called the functional1 the magical1 and the aesthetic4 ,when man first felt cold1 says the functional theory--or when he first felt shame and hid his shame with the fig leaf--he had to find some way of fastening his garments4 ,the leaves1 the furs1 the hides1 would slip off unless adequately held together1 especially when the man was running in swift hunt1 or the woman bending under domestic burdens4 ,the first fastenings were probably strands of vinestalks1 lashes of interlaced leaves4 ,then pins made of long thorns1 of wood1 or of the bones of animals came into use4 ,pins of the last sort have been found in prehistoric caves4 ,naturally1 iron1 bronze1 silver and gold pins followed1 as the use of these metals became known4 ,crude safety pins1 in form essentially the same as those we use today1 have been unearthed in the most ancient tombs4 ,the transition from bone to metal may be observed in the word fibula1 the early ,latin word for a clasp4 ,for the long outer leg bone is also called the fibula1 and it looks like the tongue of a clasp1 for which the other bone1 the tibia1 is the holder4 ,and the word fibula comes from the ,latin verb fivere1 meaning to fasten4 ,on even the earliest pins1 however1 and especially on the domed backs of safety pins and clasps1 there are curious carvings of dots and circles and other forms1 which give scope to the second theory of the origin of adornment1 the magical4 ,for along with these fasteners are found necklaces of beads and other adornments that served no practical end--except the very important purpose of placating the gods1 of warding off evil4 ,the telling of rosary beads1 widespread today in ,moslem as in ,catholic lands1 is a milder modern aid to prayer2 in primitive times the need for protection was no less frequent and more desperate4 ,those of us who carry a rabbit's foot or other charm1 who put an amulet in our automobile to help us drive safely1 who still 8knock wood0 to keep away mischance1 need not smile at our far-off ancestors who engraved their beads with potent symbols or wore a scarab1 preferably carved of precious stone1 to keep all ills away4 ,charms and amulets were on every neck and arm4 ,the devils were all about2 they whirled in the tempest2 they sprang suddenly in the form of a wild beast2 they twisted one's ankle as a jungle vine4 ,and every stone-age child knew that the agate protected one against thunder and against tiger bite4 ,if the agate was ringed like an eye1 especially a tiger's eye1 it could outstare and drive away the fiercest fiend4 ,to turn away the fangs of the venomous hidden snake1 what better charm than lapis lazuli8 ,thus each of the colored stones known to the ancients had its special powers1 or could be carved with symbols and signs of might--and jewels were worn to ward off all misfortune4 ,even among the ancient ,greeks1 it was recognized that 7as the slave in ,aristophanes' play ,plutus observes7 there is no amulet that can save one from 8the bite of a sycophant40 ,the third theory of the origin of adornment1 the aesthetic1 declares that man is born with a love of beauty4 ,there is no question--and if there were1 modern research has answered it--that the bright trinket attracts the babe4 ,when one is happy one wants to sing2 when one sees beauty1 one wants to experience it with the gift of sight or1 if it is tangible1 to put it on4 ,and ever to increase earth's store of beauty4 ,we cannot snare a sunrise1 but we can make a garland of spring flowers4 ,even before he fashioned beads1 primitive man adorned himself with necklaces of shells1 of bears' claws1 stags' teeth--probably also of many colored berries1 but these have crumbled in the caves4 ,such findings are so widespread that ,carlyle declared3 8,the first spiritual want of a barbarous man is decoration40 ,since the question of origins is buried in surmise1 it seems fair to follow that eminent advocate of the middle way1 ,sir ,roger de ,coverley1 and allow that there is something to be said for all three theories4 ,each impulse1 to hold up clothing1 to ward off evil1 to enjoy beauty--power1 protection1 pleasure--may have had a share in the birth of adornment4 ,it is true that there are paintings and statues1 in the early tombs1 of women clad only in their jewels4 ,but while queens1 and the concubines of kings might be thus untrammeled in their quest of beauty1 humbler folk at work needed workaday attire4 ,and always the magicians1 the medicine men1 then the priests1 wove their holy spells1 with mitre and chalice and ring inscribed with the secret words of power4 ,a monarch of early times was an impressive sight1 as not only his rings1 his armlets and neckpiece1 but his breastplate1 the buckle of his belt1 and the hilt of his sword were carved with sacred symbols and crusted with precious stones4 ,here were protection1 power1 and grandeur intertwined4 ,perhaps the earliest jewelry to which we can attach an owner's name was in the find unearthed in #aija by ,flinders ,petrie in the royal tombs at ,abydos4 ,it is a bracelet of golden hawks1 rising from alternate blocks of turquoise and gold1 and it belonged to the ,egyptian ,queen of ,zer back in #edjj ,b4,c4 ,somewhat later lived the ,princess ,knumit1 whose mummy was adorned with all manner of jewels1 anklets1 bracelets1 armlets1 headbands1 including a serpent necklace of beads of gold1 silver1 carnelian1 lapis lazuli1 and emerald1 and hieroglyphics wrought in gold with inlaid gems4 ,from ,chaldea1 as early as #cjjj ,b4,c41 we have beads1 and jewelry of lapis lazuli1 and headdresses of finely beaten gold4 ,egypt and the ,near ,east ,a panel in one of the pyramids gives us a realistic picture of the interior of a jeweler's shop of long ago4 ,the master craftsman1 his bookkeeper1 his workers and his apprentices are all busy at their tasks4 ,we see them selecting1 cutting1 grinding1 firing1 shaping1 setting1 polishing1 with tools that have changed little in #cjjj years4 ,the jewels we know today are all present there3 diadems1 earrings1 brooches1 bracelets1 rings1 girdles1 anklets4 ,the necklace seems to have been1 in most cases1 a wide tight band1 almost a collar2 on many a mummy such a 8choker0 has been preserved1 studded with jewels1 the gold between often in the shape of a falcon1 or a lotus1 or a sphinx4 ,favorite among the designs1 of course1 was the scarab2 in the mummy itself1 a scarab was inserted to take the place of the heart4 ,two ornaments common in ancient ,egypt are not found in use today4 ,one is the pectoral1 a great bejeweled breastpiece1 usually hung from the neck4 ,the other is the golden wig cover4 ,the great men and women of the eighteenth century ,b4,c4 wore long black wigs 7in contrast to the great men of the eighteenth century ,a4,d42 ,george ,washington's inaugural wig1 was1 of course1 powdered white74 ,close-fitting over these black wigs were joined rows of gold bands or medallions1 beaten fine1 fastened together1 forming a complete cover that reached to the shoulders4 ,the bands bore hieroglyphics1 the medallions were usually shaped like heads of man or beast4 ,one other difference from later times3 for the snuffbox of the eighteenth century ,a4,d41 or the cigarette lighter of the twentieth1 society folk in ancient ,egypt carried a perfume box4 ,the ,egyptians had many rings1 including signet rings4 ,these were intaglios2 that is1 the design was cut into1 hollowed out of1 the metal or stone1 so that when the ring was pressed on clay or wax it would leave a raised design like a cameo4 ,the design might be a god1 or a sacred animal such as a scarab or a sphinx1 usually with an indication of the identity of the owner4 ,thus the ,king's seal1 and especially the ,king's signet ring if borne by a messenger1 carried the royal authority4 ,jezebel1 wife of ,ahab1 ,king of the ,israelites1 used the seal of her royal spouse on the letters she wrote to destroy ,naboth1 whose vineyard they coveted4 ,the ,israelites1 indeed1 wore rings on their fingers1 in their nostrils1 in their ears1 and we are told that when they walked there was a tinkling about their feet4 ,they also wore a gem pressed into the soft side of the nostril1 a favorite spot for display through the ,near ,east1 still adorned by a gem among the ,bedouins and the ,hindus of today4 ,the ,israelites gave of these jewels in great quantity to adorn the ,tabernacle that was built in the wilderness--and also for the making of the ,golden ,calf4 ,legend has it that ,solomon's wisdom emanated from a magic ring4 ,one day he carelessly left this ring behind him at the bath1 and with the water of his bath it was thrown into the sea4 ,solomon retained enough wisdom to suspend his legal court for forty days1 after which the ring came back to him in the stomach of a fish served at his table4 ,a similar story of a jewel returned in the belly of a fish is told by ,polycrates1 tyrant of ,samos in #ecj ,b4,c4 ,like stories occur in ,the ,thousand and ,one ,nights2 and the coat of arms of the city of ,glasgow contains a salmon with a ring in its mouth1 memorializing the occasion when ,st4 ,kentigern from the fish's mouth restored to an early queen her ring and her reputation4 ,oriental tales have many accounts of magic rings4 ,one of the most elaborate deals with ,gyges1 a ,lydian noble to whom ,king ,candaules1 proud of the possession of a beautiful wife1 displayed her in her undraped beauty4 ,the resourceful ,gyges descended into a chasm of the earth1 where he found a brazen horse with a human carcass in its belly4 ,from the body ,gyges took a ring which1 when he turned the stone inward1 made him invisible4 ,thus fortified1 ,gyges entered the palace and murdered the king4 ,the widow1 ,nyssia1 married him2 he reigned thirty-eight years1 from #gaf to #fgh ,b4,c41 with the help of the ring becoming so powerful and so rich that men spoke proverbially of 8the wealth of ,gyges40 ,another ring1 as remembered by ,chaucer in ,the ,squire's ,tale1 gave a man the power to understand the language of the birds4 ,the reader may remember that the messenger between ,king ,solomon and the ,queen of ,sheba was a bird that whispered in their ears4 ,we gather such stories from early days literally through a fabulous thousand and one nights4 ,although jewelry was a preeminent concern of the ,egyptians1 because they must be adorned not only in this world but in the next1 it was a lively preoccupation throughout the ,near ,east1 the cradle of civilization4 ,babylonian and ,assyrian tombs yield treasures in splendidly mounted jewels4 ,a description of the goddess ,ishtar1 descending through the ,seven ,gates to the ultimate world1 pictures her at each gate putting aside a separate jewel1 finger rings1 toe rings1 necklace1 earrings1 armlet1 brooch1 girdle3 she passes through the final gate in unadorned beauty4 ,among the jewels of ancient ,persia1 from the fourth century ,b4,c41 is a great necklace of three rows of pearls1 almost #ejj pearls in all1 half of them still well preserved across the flight of twenty-five centuries4 ,westward to the ,greeks ,there exist some examples of ,greek art in early times4 ,a gold and silver brooch in the form of a flower may have been shaped about #adjj ,b4,c4 ,perhaps #ejj years later1 by the time of the ,trojan ,war1 there were inlays1 intaglios1 even small plaques of gold with hooks to fit the ear4 ,in the fifth century1 when the great dramatists filled the theatres1 ,greek lapidaries were making filigree and enamels of fruit and flowers--a bit later1 of the fair feminine form4 ,by this time1 too1 the ,greeks were copying the designs they saw on1 or bought from1 ,egyptian and ,phoenician traders2 the sphinx and the scarab appear in ,hellenic workmanship4 ,originators are held by their new problems to a sort of modesty in design4 ,imitators often--striving to outdo--overdo4 ,the ,greeks grew far more elaborate than their predecessors4 ,the great ,greek sculptors were delighted with the human figure which posed sufficient problems1 either bare or simply draped4 ,but outside of statuary1 and after the great fifth and fourth centuries1 the wealthy ,greeks in their ways of life had caught the fever of display4 ,their jewelry must surpass that of the eastern barbarians to whom they were bringing the benefits of ,greek culture4 ,from every medallion of a necklace1 for example1 might hang a pendant4 ,and this pendant might be a tiny golden vase1 which contained perfume--each vase a different fragrance--or which might open to reveal a series of figures--as1 later1 baroque rosary beads opened to reveal1 in minute carving1 episodes in the life of the ,virgin ,mary4 ,a portrait of ,alexander the ,great was a favorite figure1 in many materials and forms4 ,although ,alexander gave one artist exclusive right to reproduce his likeness after his death1 as this monopoly lapsed there was a boom on 8good luck0 jeweled representations of the man who wept because there were no more worlds for him to conquer4 ,the ,greeks did not ape all the antics of the ,phoenicians1 some of whose high-born ladies pierced the entire rim of their ears1 as well as the lobe1 each jewel in its eyelet supporting a pendant stone4 ,the ,greeks used but one ornament per ear2 but these grew larger and larger1 more and more weighted with metal and studded with jewels1 and so were finally worn suspended from a diadem or a cloth band4 ,alexander's conquests having taken the ,greeks into farther lands and introduced them to unsuspected splendors of the ,orient1 they carried home gems that before had been unfamiliar to them3 the topaz1 the amethyst1 the aquamarine4 ,etruscan ,achievements ,in ,italy1 meanwhile1 the ,etruscans had brought the work of the goldsmith and the lapidary to a high peak of artistry4 ,they developed the swivel ring1 in which the mounted gem or special charm might be turned about1 so that any face of it could be displayed4 ,thus the carvings on the belly of a scarab became as important as the design on its back4 ,the ,etruscans also made circular or oval bands of earrings and necklaces1 within which a pendant might hang free1 a gently swinging precious stone or golden charm4 ,from their necklaces often hung a hollow pendant1 in which an amulet might be placed4 ,they made many headpieces1 bands1 wreaths1 and pins of beaten or granulated gold4 ,especially deft was the work of the ,etruscans in granulated gold4 ,onto a metal surface they soldered tiny specks of gold1 almost as fine as powder1 producing the effect of a rich grain4 ,the artistry of the ,etruscan work was so superb that when it was recovered during the ,renaissance1 ,benvenuto ,cellini 7#aejj-aega71 the greatest goldsmith of his time1 despaired of making successful copies of the ,etruscan pieces and decided to shape designs of his own devising1 8inferior as they may be40 ,the ,roman ,conquest ,the whole ,etruscan civilization gave way before the splendor that was ,rome4 ,home from their conquests the ,romans brought great stores of jewels1 treasures of the ,orient4 ,before the crowding and gaping throngs of the imperial city1 the 8triumphs0 of their rulers marched for hours through the streets of ,rome1 while foreign potentates pulled chariots bearing their conquerors and carts with the loot of their palaces4 ,at ,pompey's third triumph1 in addition to countless gold and silver cases bestudded with gems1 there were three dining-couches adorned with pearls1 and a great chessboard1 three feet by four1 wrought of two precious stones1 with a golden moon1 weighing thirty pounds4 ,the ,romans also brought home artisans1 metal workers and jewelers1 from whom after a time the natives learned their craft4 ,again we find the victors trying to outdo the vanquished whom they naturally despised4 ,the adornments of men and women grew more and more massive4 ,women's hairpins were eight and ten inches long4 ,rings were worn upon every finger4 ,great thumb rings were set with jewels or made of gold in various designs1 especially the heads of animals4 ,some of the bands of gold were very large but hollow2 down the ages echo complaints that1 in accident or brawl1 a golden ring was crushed4 ,the wealthy1 of course1 insisted on rings of solid gold4 ,these became so heavy that some had to be worn in cold weather only1 lighter ones being designed for summer wear4 ,a specialty among the patricians came to be the key ring1 a golden band with the key devised to lie flat along the finger1 thus keeping with the master the safety of his treasures4 ,often a large iron key ring was worn by the chief steward of an estate2 this opened the strongbox1 which might hold the dinner plate and other daily valuables1 and within a recess of which nestled the treasure chest of the golden key4 ,so great was the jeweled extravagance of the late ,republic that ,cato the ,censor 7#bcd-adi ,b4,c47 sought by legislation to limit the amount of jewelry one might wear4 ,he also restricted the use of metal in rings1 assigning iron1 silver1 or gold according to rank4 ,gold was reserved for the official ring of the ,senator1 which he himself might wear only when on duty4 ,naturally such restrictions could not be binding for long4 ,censorship usually produces an exaggeration of what it has tried to curb4 ,in the early days of the ,empire everyone worth his salt manifested his worth with adornments4 ,the citizens favored bright colors in their jewels3 reds1 yellows1 blues4 ,the drivers at the chariot races wore different colors2 spectators bet on the red1 the yellow1 or the blue1 and many a precious stone changed hands according to the speed of the horses and the drivers' skill4 ,if a lapidary could not secure precious stones large enough1 or in quantities to meet the ever increasing demand1 he made imitations of colored glass4 ,although ,pliny cried out against the practice of making false gems1 the usual purchaser had few tests to show when he was cheated4 ,illustration3 #a4 ,,greek ,,earrings1 #e,,th ,,century ,b4,c4 ,wrought in gold1 these ancient loops end in lions' heads4 7,courtesy of the ,metropolitan ,museum of ,art7 ,illustration3 #b4 ,,cypriote ,,pendant1 #h,,th ,,century ,b4,c4 ,this gold pendant with chains is an excellent example of the simple beauty found in the jewelry of ancient ,cyprus4 7,courtesy of the ,metropolitan ,museum of ,art7 ,illustration3 #c4 ,,early #ah,,th ,,century ,,italian ,,brooch4 7,courtesy of the ,metropolitan ,museum of ,art7 ,illustration3 #d4 ,,egyptian ,,bracelet1 #d,,th ,,century ,b4,c4 8,costume jewelry0 from the ,ptolemaic ,period4 7,courtesy of the ,metropolitan ,museum of ,art7 ,illustration3 #e4 ,,etruscan ,,ring4 ,this handsome gold ring is set with a banded agate which has been engraved with a satyr and a goat4 7,courtesy of the ,metropolitan ,museum of ,art7 ,illustration3 #f4 #ah,,th ,,century ,,italian ,,ring4 ,the seal on this silver ring is probably an effigy of one of the popes4 ,the plaques represent ,st4 ,george and the dragon1 and the crest of ,pope ,clement ,,xii4 7,courtesy of the ,metropolitan ,museum of ,art7 ,illustration3 #g4 ,,cypriote ,,ring4 ,ancient gold worked in a spiral to produce an unusual piece of jewelry4 7,courtesy of the ,metropolitan ,museum of ,art7 ,illustration3 #h4 ,,roman ,,wreath1 #c,,rd ,,century ,b4,c4 ,the expert craftsmanship of ,roman metalwork can be seen in this gold wreath of ivy leaves4 7,courtesy of the ,metropolitan ,museum of ,art7 ,illustration3 #i4 ,,inside ,,view ,,of ,,the ,,famous ,,old ,,tiffany ,,store1 ,,new ,,york1 #ahge4 ,illustration3 #aj4 ,,the ,,crowning ,,of ,a ,,queen4 ,queen ,mary wears four of the magnificent gems cut from the ,cullinan1 the biggest diamond ever mined4 ,on her bodice1 pinned to the ribbon of the ,order of the ,garter1 is the #cag-;carat ,cullinan ,,ii with the #ecj-;carat ,great ,star of ,africa below it4 ,these two gems normally are in the ,state crown and the ,scepter respectively4 ,at the base of her diamond collar are the ,cullinan ,,iv1 a cushion-cut diamond of #fd carats and the ,cullinan ,,iii1 a pearshape-cut diamond of #ie carats4 ,illustration3 #aa1 #ab4 ,,the ,,british ,,crown ,,jewels4 ,left3 ,the ,crown of ,england1 known as ,st4 ,edward's ,crown because it was copied1 in the time of ,charles ,,ii1 from the ancient crown worn by ,edward the ,confessor1 has been used by many of ,england's monarchs for their coronation4 ,right3 ,the ,imperial ,state ,crown is worn by the reigning monarch on all ,state occasions4 ,made in #ahch1 it embodies many historical gems1 including the ,black ,prince's ,ruby1 a sapphire from the ring of ,edward the ,confessor and the second ,star of ,africa4 ,in all1 the crown contains #b1ghc diamonds1 #bgg pearls1 #ag sapphires1 #aa emeralds and five rubies4 7,courtesy of the ,british ,information ,services7 ,illustration3 #ac4 ,,remodelling ,,the ,,imperial ,,state ,,crown4 ,remodelling work in progress at the ,goldsmiths ,silversmiths ,company in ,london4 ,illustration3 #ad4 ,,empress ,,elisabeth ,,of ,,austria4 ,this portrait of one of the beauties of #aith century ,europe shows the young ,empress wearing hair ornaments of diamond stars which have quivering centers4 ,the ,vogue of the ,pearl ,the notorious pearl-drinking dare of ,cleopatra caught the fancy of the ,romans4 ,the serpent of the ,nile dissolved a union 7the ,roman word for pearl was unionem1 in this case truly symbolic7 worth half a million dollars1 and drank it as a pledge to her ,antony4 ,cleopatra killed herself rather than walk in the triumph of ,emperor ,augustus1 but the ,emperor's favorite1 ,agrippa1 we are told1 secured the mate to ,cleopatra's pearl4 ,she had this great pearl halved1 for the ears of the statue of ,venus in the ,pantheon4 ,the vogue of the pearl swept over ,rome4 ,this 8disease of the oyster10 with its blush of rainbow colors over white1 with its tint of beauty and its hint of underwater mystery1 had indeed always been regarded as the queen of jewels4 ,the ,romans affected it to the degree of vulgar display4 ,the historian ,pliny 7#bc-gi ,a4,d471 who railed upon many customs of the time1 commented on ,pompey's having a portrait of himself made in pearls and borne by slaves in his triumph4 8,unworthy60 cried the satirist1 8and a presage of the anger of the gods40 ,pliny also recorded that a young bride was 8covered from head to foot with pearls and emeralds40 ,he waxed indignant at the fact that women had pearls set in their shoes4 ,but so did the ,emperor ,caligula1 while the ,emperor ,nero1 fond of the theatre1 had pearls adorn his favorite players' masks4 ,not to be outdone by an ,egyptian1 ,clodius--whose father was a favorite tragic actor--invited a great company to a feast2 he dissolved and drank a large pearl1 said that he enjoyed the flavor1 and fed a similar gem to every guest4 ,roman ,luxury ,the vogue of the pearl did not bring about the neglect of other gems4 ,the ,senator ,nonius owned a great opal1 valued at two million sesterces1 approximately #aej1jjj4 ,the ,emperor ,augustus coveted the stone2 rather than yield it to him1 ,nonius withdrew into exile4 ,lollia ,paulina1 wife of the ,emperor ,caligula1 possessed a great chain of emeralds and pearls worth over two million dollars4 ,it is significant of the change in ,roman ways that when the ,emperor ,tiberius once more tried to limit the wearing of gold rings1 he based his restrictions not on rank but on riches4 ,only those citizens might wear rings of gold1 he ordained in #bb ,a4,d41 whose fathers and grandfathers held property valued at #djj1jjj sesterces1 #cj1jjj4 ,jewels1 always the property1 were thus also made the prerogative of the hereditary rich4 ,the ,tide ,turns ,east ,back from ,rome toward the ,east1 with ,constantine in #ccj ,a4,d41 went the flowering fashions1 to riot in ,byzantine luxury4 ,the ,eastern capital exceeded the declining city of the ,west--abandoned to the barbarians and the popes--in extravagance1 in colorful splendor and elaborate intricacy of design4 ,gems1 no longer reserved for the showy jewels1 were sewn upon or woven into the very texture of garments4 ,in all this profusion1 the crafts of the goldsmith and the lapidary continued to thrive1 while the ,west lapsed into the dun rigor of the ,dark ,ages4 ,eastward to ,india ,more or less independently of the western world1 the making of fine jewels flourished in the ,far ,east4 ,in ,india the code of ,manu1 about #bej ,b4,c41 prescribed fines for poor workmanship and for the debasing of gold4 ,a drama of the same period describes a workshop1 with pearls and emeralds1 and artisans to grind lapis lazuli1 to cut shells1 to pierce coral1 and to make the filigree and other ornaments that have persisted in that part of the world unchanged to our day4 ,the lavishness of ,oriental potentates is proverbial2 their collections of precious stones and elaborate jewels have been as fabulous as their incalculable wealth4 ,almost to our own generation birthday gifts to maharajahs have matched the monarch's weight in gold or precious stones4 ,at the greatest period of ,indian art1 during the reign of the ,mogul ,shah ,jehan1 who died in #afff1 the art of jewelry almost merged with that of architecture4 ,in addition to the celebrated ,peacock ,throne1 the ,shah built the ,great ,mosque at ,delhi1 and at ,agra the ,pearl ,mosque and that triumph of beauty1 the ,taj ,mahal4 ,this was erected as a mausoleum for his favorite wife1 ,mumtaz ,mahall1 who was called 8the adornment of the palace40 ,in addition to the designs and patterns of tile that are a feature of the mosques1 the ,taj ,mahal is adorned with great treasures of the ,east3 8jasper from the ,punjab1 carnelians from ,broach1 turquoises from ,tibet1 agates from ,yemen1 lapis lazuli from ,ceylon1 coral from ,arabia1 garnets from ,bundelcund1 diamonds from ,punnah1 rock crystal from ,malwar1 onyx from ,persia1 chalcedony from ,asia ,minor1 sapphires from ,colombo40 ,it took thirteen years1 from #afcb to #afde1 to collect these treasures and construct the mausoleum4 ,the memory of a woman may be buried there1 but a beauty beyond description is preserved4 ,over the ,chinese ,wall ,still farther east1 in ,china1 a more restrained and delicate beauty was developed4 ,piety and filial devotion taught the ,chinese to limit their display4 ,they cultivated the economy of good taste4 ,the world's largest known emerald1 found in ,china1 was carved into the figure of ,kwan ,yin1 goddess of mercy4 ,jewels were not worn indiscriminately2 they served not only to adorn but to signify station4 ,a mandarin of the first rank wore ruby or red tourmaline2 a mandarin of the second1 coral or garnet2 of the third1 beryl or lapis lazuli2 of the fourth1 rock crystal2 and of the fifth1 other stones of white4 ,beyond all other stones the ,chinese prized 8the divine stone10 jade4 ,while this occurs in various shades1 even of blue1 of red1 of brown1 it was1 and still is1 especially sought in ivory white and in the shades of green1 from light apple to the dark 8imperial jade40 ,this was1 legend whispered1 a crystallization of the spirit of the sea4 ,its possession conferred longevity1 man's prolonged moment in the eternity of the gods4 ,a perfect piece of jade is left uncarved4 ,as a pendant1 brooch1 or ring1 it stands alone1 in simple beauty4 ,a cultured ,chinese was likely to have one with him unmounted1 just the stone1 to cherish it and finger it and feel its silken surface4 ,there were experts who could tell the quality1 the very color1 of a piece of jade1 without looking at it1 just from the feel4 ,treasured through the centuries in ,china1 jade has come to be prized in the ,west as well4 ,the ,emperor ,kuang-hou sent ,queen ,victoria1 for her ,jubilee1 a sceptre of jade4 ,the deep green of the richest jade1 the divine stone1 makes it a fit companion for the diamond1 the monarch of gems4 ,dark ,age of the ,diamond ,the diamond was not mentioned1 in this summary narrative1 until the description of the ,taj ,mahal4 ,this greatest of precious stones--hardest of gems1 and the only one that consists of a single element--was little known in the ancient world1 and but slowly won appreciation in the ,west4 ,at the height of the ,renaissance1 ,cellini in #aefh set down the values of the precious stones1 of flawless stones one carat in weight4 ,a ruby of such specifications was worth #hjj gold crowns2 an emerald1 #djj2 a diamond1 but #ajj4 7,the more common sapphire was a far fourth1 at ten gold crowns a carat47 ,the ,dark ,ages in southern ,europe were not especially bright with gems4 ,individual rulers made some display1 on crown1 on hilt of sword1 and ecclesiastical splendor was slowly gathering1 along with decorated frames and representations of the ,virgin ,mary4 ,on the other hand1 the medieval ,church frowned upon unseemly extravagance of display1 and some monarchs1 even ,charlemagne when he doffed his rich crown of state1 were sober and plain in their attire4 ,tribes to the ,north ,in the more northerly lands1 and among the tribes that in the fourth1 fifth1 and sixth centuries pressed upon and twice overran ,rome1 there was meanwhile more than a crude attempt at jeweled adornment4 ,the ,ostrogoths made some magnificent brooches1 mainly with animal designs4 ,the ,visigoths were fond of garnets1 often set on a background of cloisonn4 ,their crowns and coronets were elaborately wrought2 one of these1 belonging to the ,spanish-,gothic ,king ,reccesvinthus 7#fdi-fgb7 was given as a votive offering to the church of ,santa ,maria near ,toledo4 ,the warlike and otherwise austere ,franks took pride in their jeweled buckles4 ,their brooches were circular1 or formed in the shape of birds4 ,in ,belgium1 in the ,fifth century1 there was considerable carving of chips1 a practice that migrated to ,scandinavia4 ,in ,sweden there was also an abundance of circular pendants1 beaten of thin gold1 and decorated with animals4 ,the ,celts and the ,emerald ,isle ,among the ,celtic peoples were found armlets and fibulas1 the latter not so short in the arch1 nor so exquisite1 as the ,greek pins1 nor yet so long and heavy as the ,roman4 ,the ,celts had large1 crescent-shaped head ornaments1 attached near the ears and standing straight up on either side like the horned moon4 ,they made heavy gold torques1 necklaces of twisted metal usually tight as a collar4 ,some of the torques1 especially those in ,ireland1 were much longer and hung down in massive twists across the chest4 ,ireland is called 8the ,emerald ,isle0 not from any pride in its deep green verdure1 but from the ring sent by ,pope ,adrian to ,henry ,,ii of ,england in #aagj1 a ring set with an emerald1 for the ,king's investiture with the dominion of ,ireland4 ,the ,scotch1 because of the way they wore their plaid1 grew to have exceptionally splendid brooches4 ,a fine one of these1 preserved in the ,british ,museum1 is known as the ,loch ,buy brooch2 it is of rock crystal cut in a convex mound1 in a circle of ten projecting turrets each topped with a pearl4 ,a noteworthy brooch design is that of the pin with arms3 a straight bar down the center1 enclosed in two arcs of a circle of beaten gold4 ,although most of their gold designs were hammered down into the metal1 the early ,celts also grew expert in rpouss1 a process in which1 on a thin sheet of metal1 the design is hammered upward from underneath4 ,the ,anglo-,saxons ,among the ,anglo-,saxons1 especially those that settled in ,kent1 a greater variety was manifest4 ,they made beads in many shapes and shades of glass and amber4 ,they were fond of the amethyst set in pure gold4 ,they adorned their hair with pins tipped with figures of animals and fantastic birds4 ,they took great pains with the art of enamel1 which they fashioned cloisonn4 ,jewels in ,english ,history ,the finest known piece of ,anglo-,saxon days is the ,alfred ,jewel1 a gold plaque of cloisonn enamel found in #afic at ,newton ,park4 ,it is an oval two inches long1 a little over an inch high1 and an inch deep4 ,at the tip of the oval is a boar's head4 ,rock crystal covers the main plaque of translucent enamel1 blue1 white1 green1 and brown1 shaped in the head of a man4 ,some think this may represent a saint1 or the ,christ2 some say it is a portrait of ,alfred the ,great1 for along the edge in gold are the letters3 ,aelfred mec heht gewyrcan1 8,alfred had me worked40 ,among other treasures of early ,england are examples of filigree1 such as a ,kentish brooch set with garnets1 of the sixth century1 and brooches of granular gold4 ,edward the ,confessor's ,jewels ,one of the three ,royal ,crowns of the ,british monarch is supposedly that of ,edward the ,confessor1 who was buried in ,westminster in #aaja1 but whose shrine was opened and the jewels taken forth for future kings4 ,the royal treasures of the ,english realm1 however1 were broken up by the ,roundheads under ,cromwell4 ,life at its longest is fleeting1 but beauty is an enduring symbol3 the destroyers of the royal treasure are scorned today almost more than the regicides4 ,the current ,crown of ,edward the ,confessor1 therefore1 is a replica1 even if the old one was authentic4 ,less suspect is the great sapphire1 which ,edward wore in his coronation ring1 and which today is the central stone in the cross atop the ,british ,imperial ,crown of ,state4 ,growth of the ,goldsmiths' ,guild ,less than a century after ,edward1 in the reign of ,henry ,,ii1 the first ,plantagenet ruler of ,england1 the ,goldsmiths' ,guild was formed4 ,by #achj1 two hundred years later1 it was one of the most powerful guilds in the country1 with rigid rules for admittance and for the quality of materials and workmanship4 ,although the artists worked for the king and the nobles1 the bulk of their production was for ecclesiastical and general religious use4 ,as a result1 they developed greater refinements and further elaborations in this field4 ,we have already noticed the rosary beads that open1 disclosing scenes of the life of ,christ or the ,virgin ,mary4 ,but a cardinal without succumbing to the sin of pride might wear a jeweled pendant if the hanging box of gold opened upon a crucifix1 or adorn his robe with a rich chain of gold if its links were medallions designed with holy scenes4 ,cardinal ,wolsey1 whose kitchen boasted twenty-two specialty chefs1 vied with his lusty monarch1 ,henry ,,viii1 in many ways1 but he could never hope to match the ,king's jewels which included almost #bej rings1 well over #cjj brooches1 and one of whose diamonds1 an observer reports1 was bigger than 8the largest walnut ,i ever saw40 ,the ,italians in the ,renaissance ,the ,italian ,renaissance started earlier than and outshone the ,english4 ,the great jewel collections of ancient times1 of the ,emperors ,julius ,caesar and ,hadrian of ,maecenas were dwarfed by the collections of the ,medici and the ,borgias4 ,the styles favored in those days are still vivid in the portraits of the period4 ,many of the painters and sculptors1 indeed--,donatello 7#achf-adff71 ,pollaiuolo 7#adbi-adih71 ,botticelli 7#addd-aeaj71 ,cellini1 to name but four--began their careers as goldsmiths and jewelers4 ,they fashioned works with painstaking devotion and venturesome skill for their generous but exacting patrons4 ,lorenzo de ,medici collected the antique cameos and intaglios freshly unearthed in ,italian soil2 under the spur of his interest1 intaglio jewels achieved a new delicacy4 ,metal was worked with greater deftness1 flat1 chased1 or rpouss4 ,faience1 the art of painting and glazing ceramics1 was added to the colorful arts of enameling4 ,enseignes became popular1 badges of dignity in the form of a gold adornment on a man's hat1 with the nobleman's crest or other identification caught into the design4 ,all over the continent1 and even among the ,italianate ,englishmen of ,elizabeth's court and ,james'1 the enseigne was worn as a clasp to hold the plume1 while from one ear beneath dangled a golden ring or a pear-shaped pearl4 ,rings of all sorts were again in demand1 especially signet rings1 fede 7clasped hands7 friendship rings1 gimmals or gemmels 7twin rings that could be separated for two lovers to wear7--and poison rings4 ,particularly popular was the pendant1 in many forms and positions4 ,pendant earrings again grew1 until almost too large to wear4 ,even larger pendants1 many opening on cameos1 dangled upon the breast4 ,pendants of all sorts hung from the girdles1 utilitarian in the shape of golden keys or scissors1 religious in the shape of a crucifix or the relic of a saint1 along with purely aesthetic medallions of animals or flowers1 or golden spheres--so many as to make a tinkling when one walked4 ,a new fashion in the pendant was introduced1 a jewel on the forehead1 hung from a hair band or adornment2 in ,india1 similar pendants had for centuries hung from the veil4 ,this new pendant was called the ferronire1 from ,la ,ferrionire 78the ironmonger's wife07 whose portrait survives1 probably painted by ,leonardo da ,vinci when she was mistress of ,francis ,i of ,france4 ,the ,renaissance ,across ,europe ,when ,cellini went to ,france1 he gave impetus to the art work there4 ,in ,spain1 the goldsmiths fashioned reliquaries2 they wrought pendants on which they hung the emeralds new-garnered from ,peru2 they favored bow-shaped brooches of many jewels1 the ruby vying with the emerald4 ,the great international bankers1 the ,fuggers1 dealt also in jewels and gems4 ,hans ,holbein the painter1 while in ,england1 made many designs for jewels4 ,the painter ,albrecht ,drer1 son of a goldsmith1 fashioned a pendant for ,henry ,,viii1 with the initials ,e ,r 7,enricus ,rex7 and three large drops4 ,at the same time1 the sons of wealthy merchants1 the young bloods of the cities1 with spangled chain and jeweled dagger hilt1 aped the sons of nobles4 ,restrictive regulations did little to curb their display4 ,as wealth was not yet evenly distributed1 not everyone could afford the genuine precious stones1 and the trade in paste flourished4 ,milan was the center of this manufacture4 ,in addition to the ordinary glass used for imitation gems1 strass glass was developed4 ,invented by ,josef ,strasser1 this mixes lead or flint with the usual vitreous substance and obtains a greater lustre4 ,either type of glass often had placed beneath it1 cunningly hidden in the setting1 a tiny bit of quicksilver or tinfoil1 to make the glass reflect more light and thus seem to sparkle with its own fire4 ,the ,renaissance no more than earlier times had skill to know the genuine from the imitation4 ,cellini chuckles over the fact that ,henry ,,viii of ,england1 bargaining with a shrewd dealer of ,milan for a fine set of jewels1 received what he felt was one of his best buys--in paste4 ,the ,reformation ,the ease of working in these various modes overreached itself4 ,the designs again grew more and more elaborate4 ,enseignes1 medallions1 love tokens1 memorials of saints1 grew heavier than the hats1 than the heads1 they were intended to adorn4 ,rings and bracelets were fashioned to be worn outside of gloves2 gloves were fashioned with slits to display bracelets and rings within4 ,extravagance of ornament1 though a minor cause1 contributed to the revulsion against the many abuses of the day that led to the two reformations4 ,the ,church itself embarked on a housecleaning campaign1 which included simplicity of dress and paucity of adornment4 ,the seventeenth century in ,europe1 in the field of jewels1 was one of timid venturing4 ,the ,portuguese came to the fore with delicate work1 golden sprays of leaves and flowers with tiny gems1 ribbons and knots of gold4 ,in ,france the svign appeared1 a simple golden bow or rosette worn on the breast1 named after the ,marquise de ,svign1 a noted blue-stocking and one of the greatest letter writers of her day4 ,the svign1 at first rather plain1 was elaborated during the eighteenth century into a massive brooch1 or even a gemmed stomacher4 ,the aigrette also appeared at this time1 in the form of feather-like thin movable stalks of gold tipped with tiny gems set in enamel2 these vibrated as the wearer moved4 ,the ,eighteenth ,century ,in the eighteenth century greater attention was again paid to adornment4 ,the aigrette became more popular1 used mainly as an ornament for the hair4 ,thin silver stalks like stems of wheat were banded just below the center1 with a slide for fastening2 the tips were set with diamonds4 ,some pins for the hair and some brooches were fashioned with birds or butterflies1 again on thin stalks so that they flitted as the wearer walked4 ,this vibration of the aigrette added to the sparkle of the gems4 ,i have made a variation of this jewel1 as a flower1 to fit the taste of the twentieth century4 ,a new type of pendant earring was the girandole4 ,this appeared in two main forms4 ,in one1 from a large circular stone at the ear lobe hung three pear-shaped pendants1 sometimes amethysts or other colored stones1 but usually diamonds4 ,in the other type1 from the top stone was suspended an oval hoop of gold1 within which a single large diamond hung loose4 ,more and more as the nineteenth century came near1 the fashion in precious stones demanded diamonds4 ,if not in the center of a jewel1 they were used to set off the main one4 ,they were worn in the new marquise ring1 the gold of which was fashioned to hold a large oblong stone surrounded by diamonds4 ,they were an essential element of the parure1 the set of matching jewels1 which developed in this century in ,france4 ,thus milady might have1 in a parure1 a bracelet1 necklace1 earrings1 aigrette1 and svign1 all ordered together and made of the same metals and precious stones1 patterned for their respective purposes in a concordant1 harmonizing whole4 ,on the ,romantics ,for a time1 under the influence of the rococo style1 and the ,gothic tendency in the other arts1 it looked as though jewelry designs1 becoming more and more elaborate and extravagant1 might again approach the eccentric and achieve the inept4 ,in #agee1 however1 the ruins of ,pompeii were unearthed1 with their treasures of antique style1 and a classical simplicity became the order of the day1 fostered for a time by the 8return to nature0 of the ,romantics4 ,it was felt1 for instance1 that the diamond1 now prized beyond all other precious stones1 shone most effulgent when it stood alone in a simple setting4 ,the wars toward the end of the eighteenth century1 culminating in the ,french ,revolution and the campaigns of ,napoleon1 shifted the ownership but did not stem the manufacture or the collection of jewels4 ,the inventory of ,mlle4 ,mars1 taken in #ahbh1 listed over sixty items1 many of them treasures in themselves4 ,notable among these were3 a necklace of two rows of brilliants 7diamonds71 forty-six in the first row1 forty-eight in the second4 ,eight bunches of sprigs of wheat tipped with brilliants 7that is1 eight aigrettes7 totaling about #ejj brilliants weighing #eg carats2 a garland of brilliants that could be worn as one bouquet or divided into three flower brooches1 totaling #gji brilliants and #he carats2 a svign--mounted in colored gold a central large topaz was surrounded by brilliants1 with three drops of opals also surrounded by brilliants1 the whole set in gold studded with rubies and pearls2 a pair of girandole earrings of brilliants--in each1 from the large stud brilliant were suspended three pear-shaped brilliants1 united by four smaller ones2 a pair of earrings--from the large stud brilliant of each hung a cluster of #ad smaller brilliants1 like a bunch of grapes2 a parure of opals1 consisting of a necklace1 a svign1 two bracelets1 earrings1 and a belt-plate4 ,and ,mlle4 ,mars1 though a noted comic actress and a favorite of ,napoleon1 was by no means the outstanding society woman of her day4 ,into the ,nineteenth ,century ,by #ahdj many new designs--frets1 crescents1 stars--were employed to show off the popular diamonds4 ,these were still preeminent in the magnificence of the marriage of ,napoleon ,,iii in #ahec1 but his ,empress ,eugnie revived the use of strings of pearls for the evening4 ,diamonds were then worn in similar strings1 called rivires1 necklaces of a succession of single stones1 matched or graduated1 with a very large stone in the center4 ,a stone of ten carats was no longer considered large2 the diamond must be at least fifteen carats1 and preferably nearer forty4 ,the large solitaire became popular1 not only for engagement rings1 but as the clip-stone on a pin or pendant1 from the diamond often hanging a pear-shaped pearl4 ,the late nineteenth century developed an electicism1 a freedom of choice among the various modes of the past1 that continues into the jewelry design of our own day4 ,toward the end of the century1 perhaps as a by-product of the school of les diaboliques in literature and art1 there developed a desire to shock the bourgeoisie1 and with it a certain desire for novelty1 manifested in such bizarre items as live beetles worn as pins1 or brooches of a live tortoise with gems set in its shell4 ,the ,twentieth ,century ,a central ground of common sense and classical design was firmly maintained by ,peter ,carl ,faberg and the ,house of ,faberg1 which designed many of the jewels at the turn of the century and continued popular among the ,edwardians4 ,the great ,world's ,fair in ,paris in #aijj showed a fresh interest in design1 and the use of such materials as translucent enamel1 ivory1 and horn4 ,the influence of the ,orient showed in these materials2 it was also evident in larger and more colorful earrings and the multiplicity of bracelets4 ,hair styles played their part in the shaping of jewelry4 ,the pompadour in front1 with chignon1 increased the output of tortoise-shell combs1 often studded with diamonds1 and of fourches1 large two-pronged hairpins similarly adorned4 ,after #aiad1 the vogue of bobbed hair shifted production from combs to diamond slides4 ,at the same time1 the exposed ears made ear ornaments de rigueur4 ,as many persons objected to having their ear lobes pierced for earrings1 the earclip became popular2 today it is almost universal in feminine fashion4 ,about this time1 too1 short sleeves led to an increased use of bracelets1 often worn several on one arm4 ,especially popular has been the bangle bracelet1 a band of gold from which are suspended coins1 figures of men and animals1 and other tokens and mementos4 ,sometimes golden disks are engraved with sentimental designs or sayings2 sometimes the words are humorous1 the figures grotesque4 ,platinum and more recently palladium have been increasingly used as basic metals for the new jewelry1 along with the now less frequent silver and the constant gold4 ,spurred by ,ren ,lalique1 the impetus of modern art has been felt in jewelry design4 ,cubic1 non-representational1 and other modes of abstract form have helped shape the modern bracelet1 earclip1 watch1 and the case for powder1 cigarettes1 lighter1 or the watch4 ,while some jewels thus manifest the modern modes1 others draw freely on the beauty of the past1 as stimulus to the creation of fresh patterns of beauty for our day4 ,,chapter #b ,what the ,stones ,are ,what the ,stones ,are ,on the basis of beauty1 stones cannot be divided into precious and semiprecious for1 from stone to stone1 there is continuous range of color and glow4 ,nor indeed can price be the one criterion1 for here many elements produce variety4 ,although the term 8gem of the first water0 is reserved for the flawless blue-white diamond1 as the carats of the single stone increase the flawless ruby and the emerald become even more costly2 and varieties and special specimens of other stones1 such as the fire opal and imperial jade1 move up into comparable range4 ,for certain individuals1 of course1 a particular stone will have associations of sentiment that render it more precious--in the nontechnical sense--than another stone in the category of 8precious40 ,it is1 then1 tradition rather than any inherent value that sets a secondary label1 8semiprecious10 on all but five of the stones used for human adornment4 ,let us call these five the gems1 to distinguish them from the other stones4 ,the ,gems ,there is no doubt that the five gems--diamond1 ruby1 emerald1 sapphire1 and pearl--have grown more fully than all others into our ways of living4 ,they have become1 as ,i shall indicate in this chapter1 adornments not only of our persons but of our speech and writing4 ,they are used not only in figures of jewelry but in figures of speech1 to express human beauty1 or eminence1 or virtue4 ,the poet and the orator1 as well as the monarch and the lover1 have utilized the glamour of the gem4 ,diamond ,supreme in human imagination is the diamond1 the hardest of all stones4 ,the word diamond captures this significance1 for it is from ,greek adamas1 meaning unconquerable1 the tameless stone4 ,the diamond is also the only gem that is entirely composed of a single element4 ,it is carbon1 which also appears in its more common and less costly forms as soot1 jet1 and coal4 ,the diamond is pure carbon crystallized in regular octahedrons1 eight-sided figures4 ,for a long time1 one word was used to mean both the diamond and the lodestone1 the natural magnet4 ,in ,french today1 the gem is diamant1 and the magnet is aimant--which also means loving4 ,perhaps the word changed because the natural magnet1 attracting things to it1 was thought of as 8the loving stone40 ,the diamond is the beloved stone4 ,most diamonds at their best are colorless1 with perhaps a bluish glow4 ,they may also be blue1 green1 violet1 less often red--and black4 ,the black diamond is usually unwanted for jewelry1 but is used by lapidaries and others for cutting1 grinding1 and polishing hard stones4 ,if a jeweler speaks of a ,matura diamond or a ,ceylon diamond1 he is using an old trade name for a zircon4 ,similarly1 a ,welsh1 ,irish1 ,cornish1 ,quebec1 or ,california diamond is likely to be an attractive piece of rock crystal4 ,true diamonds were known in ,asia at least as far back as #ijj ,b4,c4 ,india was the homeland of the gem for many years4 ,the best stones in the sixteenth century were those cut in ,hyderabad1 ,india1 in the famed city of ,golconda4 ,rich findings were made about #agbj in ,brazil2 in ,borneo in #agch2 elsewhere1 diamonds were discovered in less significant amounts4 ,but by far the richest hoards were unearthed in #ahfg in ,south ,africa1 which is still the world's greatest source of diamonds4 ,although the lozenge is the characteristic shape of its crystal surface1 the rough diamond stone is found in many shapes and cut into great variety4 ,because of the tears that the great tragic actress ,sarah ,bernhardt wrung from the audiences at his melodramas1 ,victor ,hugo presented her with a tear-shaped diamond4 ,among the many literary references to the diamond1 the ,elizabethan playwrights were particularly fond of the expression 8diamond cut diamond01 meaning in that aristocratic age1 when great man matched with great4 ,in the more democratic nineteenth century1 particularly with regard to those most democratic of spirits1 the pioneers--such as the ,americans opening up the ,west--it became popular to speak of an uncouth1 unpolished but fundamentally fine fellow as 8a diamond in the rough40 ,lovers at all times have linked this most brilliant of stones with their fair one's sparkling eyes4 ,one said that1 wherever he went in the world1 he found only his beloved3 ,if to far ,india's coast we sail1 ,thy eyes are seen as diamonds bright1 ,thy breath is ,amric's spicy gale1 ,thy skin is ivory's soft white4 ,there are several sayings which1 though they refer to the diamond1 by indirection speak of mankind4 ,thus there is a warning to the person who is heedless of dress or decor1 or of the furnishing of office or home1 in the remark3 8,a fine diamond may be ill set40 ,there is1 on the other hand1 a challenge to pretense1 or perhaps a warning to a person about to select an employee--or a mate--in the ,chinese proverb3 8,a diamond with a flaw is better than a perfect pebble40 ,ruby ,the ruby is a variety of corundum4 ,the ,sanskrit word kuruvinda was limited to the ruby1 but we today use the word corundum to mean any form of aluminum oxide1 chemically ,al,o4 ,corundum is next in hardness 7though far inferior7 to the diamond1 and a hard granular form of it is used in grinding and polishing4 ,in its pure1 transparent form it is1 according to its color1 the ruby1 the sapphire1 the ,oriental amethyst1 or the ,oriental topaz4 ,the ,latin word ruber means red1 and the crystalline corundum that is a ruby takes shades from pale rose-pink to a deep crimson that borders on the purple4 ,the color is determined by the nature of the oxide1 and the gem sometimes has a light silken sheen4 ,a flawless deep red ruby is one of the rarest and most costly of gems4 ,because of its great value1 the ruby has often been used as a term of comparison for human worth1 implying the highest excellence4 ,the ,scottish poet ,william ,dunbar used it in pious thought3 8,hail1 redolent ruby1 rich and radious6 ,hail1 ,mother of ,god60 ,among precious rubies1 greatly desired is the star ruby1 a gem so flawed that it catches the light as a sun with six out-shooting rays4 8,the sun is fair10 said the poet ,drummond of ,hawthorne on a fine summer's morning1 8when he with crimson crown and flaming rubies leaves his eastern bed40 ,the star ruby1 with its three crossbars making six rays of light1 has been thought by these lines of light to signify ,faith1 ,hope1 ,charity1 ,health1 ,wealth1 and ,happiness4 ,thus it is doubly prized1 for its good fortune and for its beauty4 ,the deep rubies of 8pigeon's blood0 or ox-blood red come from ,burma2 those from ,siam may be purplish brown2 from ,ceylon1 more probably pink2 a ,brazilian ruby1 a topaz2 a ,siberian ruby1 a tourmaline2 and a ,balas ruby1 a spinel4 ,most frequent of all comparisons with gems are references to the 8ruby lips0 of beauty4 ,close after these come allusions to the rich red of wine1 as when ,fitzgerald tells us1 in his translation of the ,rubaiyat of ,omar ,khayyam3 ,but still a ruby kindles in the vine1 ,and many a garden by the water blows4 ,robert ,herrick1 the poet of youth and springtime1 who advises us to enjoy lovely things while they are here--8,gather ye rosebuds while ye may0--in a note of more solemn warning says to a fair maid3 ,that ruby which you wear ,sunk from the tip of your soft ear ,will last to be a precious stone ,when all your world of beauty's gone4 ,what the maiden answered is not on record1 but it is sadly pleasant to think1 three hundred years later1 that somewhere today that ruby is still beautiful and still enjoyed4 ,sapphire ,sapphire is the current form of a ,sanskrit word meaning dear to ,saturn1 an olden god whose reign was regarded as the golden age4 ,the stone has been known since earliest times1 although what the ancients called sapphire was probably the lapis lazuli1 our sapphire being called by them the hyacinth4 ,it is hard to tell1 however1 just what gem is intended when in the ,song of ,songs the ,queen of ,sheba sings of ,solomon1 her beloved3 8,his hands are as gold rings set with beryl2 his belly is as bright ivory overlaid with sapphires40 ,our sapphire is a bluish transparent variety of native crystalline aluminum oxide1 the same corundum that when it is red we call a ruby4 ,the sapphire may be sky blue or cornflower blue1 and shade through the lighter hues to an almost colorless stone1 called white or water sapphire4 ,the sapphire is often used as a figure for the stars or for blue eyes3 8,those eyes1 those sparkling sapphires of delight0444 8,now glowed the firmament with living sapphires40 ,this last line is by ,milton1 from ,paradise ,lost1 which he dictated to his daughters when he was blind4 ,the poet ,gray pictures ,milton as becoming blinded by his great vision3 ,he passed the flaming bounds of place and time1 ,the living throne1 the sapphire-blaze1 ,where angels tremble while they gaze1 ,he saw but1 blasted with excess of light1 ,closed his eyes in endless night4 ,while the sapphire at its best still captures the blue of a cloudless sky1 it brings with it today a vision of more serene beauty4 ,emerald ,the emerald is the most precious of the large beryl group of stones4 ,it has been deemed precious from ancient times4 ,cleopatra's emerald mines are still being worked4 ,a flawless deep green emerald of good size is extremely rare4 ,such a gem1 normally1 is table cut4 ,the emerald also may be pierced for use as a bead1 or engraved4 ,in ,egypt1 the usual carving was a scarab--,cleopatra possessed one2 in ,india1 the carving often was a god4 ,the word emerald1 before the sixteenth century1 was esmeraldus and smaragdus2 the ,sanskrit word for the gem was marakta4 ,as recently as the last century1 ,ralph ,waldo ,emerson summed up the chief sensuous impressions of the ,orient3 8,color1 taste1 and smell3 smaragdus1 sugar1 and musk40 ,there are few colors at once as striking and as restful as the green of an emerald4 ,it seems to have the depths of the pure rays in a calm ocean4 ,coleridge in ,the ,ancient ,mariner used it for another form of the ever-changing waters3 ,and ice1 mast-high1 came floating by1 ,as green as emerald4 ,tennyson used it for the widespread carpet of the land4 ,a livelier emerald sparkles in the grass4 ,in a lighter vein1 it has been used to suggest the color of unripe fruit1 as in ,eugene ,field's verses on the peach3 ,a little peach in an orchard grew1 ,a little peach of emerald hue2 ,warmed by the sun and wet by the dew1 ,it grew4 ,the green of the emerald makes it1 in many minds1 the most beautiful of colored gems4 ,pearl ,the pearl is the only one of the five gems that is the product of life4 ,it gives body to the eternal paradox that out of evil springs good2 out of deformity1 beauty4 ,for these reasons1 the pearl is most frequently1 of all gems1 woven into symbols of man's activity4 8,honesty dwells like a miser1 sir1 in a poor house10 said ,shakespeare1 8as your pearl in a foul oyster40 ,a pearl1 as the ,oxford ,english ,dictionary puts it1 is a nacreous concretion formed within the shell of various bivalve molluscs around some foreign substance 7i4e41 a grain of sand71 composed of filmy layers of carbonate of lime interstratified with animal membrane4 ,trying to isolate the intruding irritant1 the oyster secretes a sticky fluid4 ,the fluid hardens1 another layer of it is secreted1 and the pearl grows4 ,the genuine pearl oyster is the meleagrina margaritifera4 ,margaritifera means pearl-bearing from which comes the name ,margaret meaning pearl4 ,other molluscs may also form pearls1 though not usually the varieties served in the months with an 8,r04 ,freshwater pearls come from mussels1 of the kind called unionidae4 ,unionem is the ,latin word for pearl--also for onion1 which like the pearl is made up of layer upon layer4 ,mary ,queen of ,scots had a necklace of fifty-two graduated pearls1 all of them fetched out of ,scottish rivers4 ,pearls are prized because of the beautiful lustre that glows upon them1 pink or even bluish-grey1 an iridescence over the basic white4 ,rarest are the large black pearls1 which make a beautiful center drop on a brooch or a necklace4 ,the pearl is hard and smooth in texture1 beautiful to see and pleasant to feel4 ,the usual shapes in which a pearl grows are round1 button1 pear1 and baroque 7which in this use merely means irregular74 ,the round pearls are used mainly for necklaces1 which must be threaded in silk or plastic or other such material2 any metal may darken and dull the beauty of a pearl4 ,button pearls are used in earclips1 studs1 brooches and rings4 ,pear-shaped pearls are attractive as pendants4 ,the use of baroque pearls depends upon their shape and size4 ,pearls are assorted and matched with great care1 according to their size1 shape1 and color4 ,the matching of a string of pearls may be a quest of twenty years4 ,sometimes a jeweler will hold the pearls until he has a matched necklace1 graduated or of equal size2 but it is also a challenge to a woman who enjoys jewels to buy a few pearls she can wear in various ways while watching for enough of their peers to form a string4 ,the lustrous inside of the oyster shell1 formed of the same material as the gem1 is called mother of pearl4 ,a blister pearl is a flattish excrescence that1 instead of being inside the soft oyster1 adheres to the shell2 it may be detached and used4 ,seed pearls are very tiny pearls1 weighing less than a quarter of a grain4 ,for ages one of the most highly prized and priced of gems1 the pearl has become less costly not because of changing taste or of successful simulation1 but because man has learned the secret of the stimulation of the oyster to make it create a pearl4 ,the best natural pearls come from the ,persian gulf and the waters of ,australia2 but it is the ,japanese who have most fully developed the technique of inserting a foreign body in the oyster1 so that it then carries on1 under its own living power1 the process of making a real--but what is called a cultured--pearl4 ,man proposes and the oyster disposes4 ,from the 8gates of pearl0 through which ,saint ,peter allows the elect to enter ,heaven1 to the guardians--8of ,orient pearl a double row0--of the smiling mouth1 the pearl has been caught into proverb and poem4 ,at the beginning of this century1 the pearl figured in a popular song3 ,the hours ,i've spent with you1 dear heart1 ,are as a string of pearls to me2 ,i count them over1 every one apart1 ,my rosary4 ,for some reason1 all of ,shakespeare's references to the pearl are linked with sadness4 ,the song in ,the ,tempest tells3 ,full fathom five thy father lies1 ,of his bones are coral made2 ,those are pearls that were his eyes 444 ,and it is after ,othello has killed his faithful wife ,desdemona and has discovered that his clouding suspicions were untrue1 that he calls himself3 ,one whose hand1 ,like the base ,indian1 threw a pearl away ,richer than all his tribe4 ,as far back as the ,bible a thing of supreme quality was referred to as a pearl of great price2 and the same book 7,matthew7 issues the famous warning3 8,neither cast ye your pearls before swine40 ,in other ways the pearl has been used as a symbol4 ,the poet ,swinburne1 in sentimental mood1 exclaimed3 ,the world has no such flowers in any land1 ,and no such pearl in any gulf the sea1 ,as any babe on any mother's knee4 ,the rarity of the stone1 and the difficult task of the pearl-diver1 are used symbolically in an epigram by ,dryden3 ,errors1 like straws1 upon the surface flow2 ,he who would search for pearls must dive below4 ,the ,american poet1 ,william ,russell ,lowell 7father of the ,supreme ,court ,justice of the same name71 wrote in his copy of the ,rubaiyat of ,omar ,khayyam3 ,these pearls of thought in ,persian gulfs were bred1 ,each softly lucent as a rounded moon2 ,the diver ,omar plucked them from their bed1 ,fitzgerald strung them on an ,english thread4 ,other ,stones ,the other stones1 though less esteemed in lore and letters1 have many claims to beauty4 ,one shining specimen may adorn a jewel2 or several of a kind1 or combinations of various stones1 may create effects that rival those of the gems4 ,the four native stones among the five gems are usually translucent1 while most of the other stones are opaque4 ,a transparent or translucent stone1 if it is cut as a prism or if its crystalline structure is right1 may break light into rainbow hues1 and1 catching these rays1 may shoot them around in varying interplays of sparkle and color4 ,the opaque stones1 on the other hand1 often smooth of surface1 are colored in ways that seem to snare the light and send it out with added power and color4 ,special characteristics add to the beauty of many of these stones1 the main varieties of which we shall now glance at1 in alphabetical order4 ,agate ,the agate is a variety of chalcedony4 ,it is named from the river ,achates1 in ,sicily4 ,a hard stone1 of striped or cloudy coloring1 it is often yellow or tawny brown4 ,shakespeare in ,romeo and ,juliet uses the agate in a ring to indicate the size of ,queen ,mab1 who--before ,freud brought us other fancies--was the bringer of dreams3 ,she is the fairies' midwife1 and she comes ,in shape no bigger than an agate-stone ,on the forefinger of an alderman 444 ,in her coach1 ,queen ,mab gallops by night ,through lovers' brains1 and then they dream of love2 ,o'er courtiers' knees1 that dream on curtsies straight2 ,o'er lawyers' fingers1 who straight dream on fees2 ,o'er ladies' lips1 who straight on kisses dream4 ,alexandrite ,the stone alexandrite was given its name from ,alexander ,,ii 7#ahah-ahha71 ,czar of all the ,russias1 in whose realm it was found4 ,it is a variety of chrysoberyl1 containing chromium4 ,it has the interesting quality of being dark green in daylight1 but under artificial illumination glowing a brilliant red4 ,these were the national colors of ,russia1 the green standing for felicity1 the red for humanity4 ,amethyst ,the amethyst is a variety of quartz--often called the queen of quartz--purple or violet in color4 ,it is one of the earliest stones found in jewelry and has been used in every period4 ,it is especially attractive in combination with gold and pearls4 ,people as early as the ,greeks have used the amethyst as a talisman against intoxication4 ,in #aejb1 ,camilli ,leonardi observed that the amethyst protected the mild drinker and cautioned its wearer against excess2 but when its warnings were unheeded1 the stone grew wan and died4 ,there is no question1 as ,i can testify from my direct observation1 that continuing drunkenness of its wearer will cause an amethyst 7like a person7 to grow dull4 ,a motion picture star1 well known all over the world--her life recorded in a major film--some time ago was in quest of an unusual necklace4 ,at the time1 ,i was in ,hollywood as jewelry consultant to a motion picture company4 ,as ,i happened to be staying at the same hotel as this actress1 we often went to the studio together1 and we became rather friendly4 ,when she mentioned to me that she had been looking for a necklace that was distinctive and personalized1 ,i told her that her complexion and hair coloring made it desirable--in my mind1 almost mandatory--for her to have the jewel made of deep purple ,uruguayan amethysts combined with diamonds4 ,that night ,i made a sketch of such a jewel1 and sent it to her the next morning4 ,she was enchanted4 ,so was the ,hollywood jeweler who was entrusted with the making of the necklace from my design1 for it was a great success1 the talk of the season in the movie colony4 ,what the jeweler did not tell me--what perhaps he did not know1 as neither did ,i--was that this glamorous star1 with an angelic face and a skin the poet ,byron might despair of describing1 used to hide away once a month or more and drink herself into complete intoxication4 ,we did not know1 but the amethysts did4 ,within a year the deep velvety purple had faded2 the stones were pale1 and they had lost their lustre4 ,the warning of the amethysts had gone unheeded4 ,aquamarine ,the aquamarine is a pale1 transparent1 bluish-green variety of beryl4 ,being of much the same chemical composition as the emerald1 it is sometimes called blue emerald4 ,although it is not a rare stone1 when step cut the aquamarine has a pleasant glow1 and may be combined with diamonds to make a distinctive jewel4 ,beryl ,beryl is1 chemically1 a silicate of aluminum and glucinum1 ,be,al7,si,o74 ,it usually forms in hexagonal crystals4 ,when there is also in the stone some oxide of chromium1 it becomes a bright or a deep green3 this is the emerald4 ,the word beryl covers a large number of hard and lustrous stones4 ,at first it was applied to clear crystals2 thus in the fifteenth century we find references to 8water clear as beryl40 ,a pale bluish-green variety of beryl is the aquamarine4 ,a yellow variety is the chrysoberyl 7chrysos is the ,greek word for gold74 ,carnelian ,the carnelian was originally the cornelian4 ,because of its flesh color1 the name was changed under the influence of the ,latin word for flesh1 carnem4 ,carnelian is a red variety of chalcedony4 ,cat's-eye ,there are two varieties of the cat's-eye1 equally effective against evil spirits4 ,the stone may be either olive green1 or reddish brown4 ,the most attractive shades are bamboo and moss green4 ,the distinguishing feature of the stone is that it seems to have a horizontal slit that sends back a white band of light1 moving with the stone1 and resembling the gleam in the baleful eye of a cat4 ,other appropriately sinister colorings are sometimes called tiger's-eye and hawk's-eye4 ,the ,oriental cat's-eye is a mineral of the chrysoberyl group2 the ,occidental1 somewhat less glinting1 is a variety of quartz4 ,the cat's-eye1 of course1 is in wide repute for the power it confers of seeing in the dark4 ,thus it is an excellent stone for hunters4 ,but it proves similarly effective in mental darkness1 providing the power for seeing through the schemes of connivers4 ,wearing a cat's-eye may thus save one from becoming a cat's-paw4 ,i met a detective recently who was wearing a superb hawk's-eye ring2 he told me he had just received notice of his promotion1 8with distinction10 to the rank of captain4 ,chalcedony ,chalcedony is the name of a large group of stones1 variously colored1 consisting mainly of non-crystal quartz4 ,it has the lustre of wax4 ,chalcedony has been known from early times and is mentioned in the ,bible4 ,among the stones belonging to this group are agate1 carnelian1 chrysoprase1 jasper1 onyx1 and sard4 ,chrysoberyl ,the various stones beginning with chrys 7,greek for gold7 should in the main be yellow4 ,chrysoberyl is a yellowish1 sometimes slightly greenish1 mineral1 beryllium aluminate1 chemically ,be ,al,o4 ,it has been used for adornment since ancient times4 ,chrysolite ,this is a rather common yellow silicate of magnesium and iron1 of granular structure4 ,when1 as sometimes occurs1 it is greenish in tint1 it is called olivine by mineralogists1 but when used for adornment jewelers call it peridot4 ,chrysolite is mentioned as one of the foundation stones of the ,new ,jerusalem prophesied in ,revelations4 ,shakespeare has ,othello1 wrought with agony over his beloved ,desdemona whom he believes unfaithful1 exclaim3 ,nay1 had she been true1 ,if heaven would make me such another world ,of one entire and perfect chrysolite ,i'd not have sold her for it4 ,there is indeed beauty in an entire and perfect chrysolite4 ,chrysoprase ,gold touched with leek 7prason is the ,greek word for leek7 marks the color of the chrysoprase4 ,it is a light green quartz1 a variety of chalcedony4 ,as chrysoprasus1 it is listed in the ,king ,james ,bible as the tenth foundation stone of the ,new ,jerusalem4 ,citrine ,named from the citrus family1 citrine is a lemon-yellow variety of quartz4 ,when clear1 it may be used as becomingly as topaz4 ,coral ,coral is a fairly hard substance1 mainly calcium carbonate1 made up of the skeletons of myriads of marine animals called polyps4 ,these skeletons1 attached to one another1 through the centuries have formed shelves in the ocean1 or shaped themselves as atolls and far-extending reefs4 ,coral may be in many colors1 white1 black1 yellow1 blue1 and--most popular in jewelry--shades of pink and red4 ,the reddish shades1 the ,greeks inform us1 are dyed by the blood of the ,gorgon ,medusa1 whose snake-haired head1 lopped off by ,perseus1 dripped its gore into the sea as he laid it by to wash his hands4 ,scientists inform us the red is produced by the presence of iron oxide4 ,the ancient ,romans placed coral on cradles1 to protect the babe against the ills of infancy1 especially teething4 ,even today1 ,italian peasants use it as a charm against sterility1 or in the form of a little bell the wind might make tinkle to drive off evil spirits4 ,if one has ever knocked wood1 one might place on the babe a ring or a trinket of coral4 ,references to the beloved one's coral lips were so frequent in ,renaissance poetry that ,shakespeare in revulsion wrote his ,sonnet #acj3 ,my mistress' eyes are nothing like the sun1 ,coral is far more red than her lips' red 444 --,and yet1 by heaven1 ,i think my love as rare ,as any she belied with false compare4 ,a century later another playwright1 ,william ,congreve1 also used the image in a passage of scorn1 after describing the physical allure of a great beauty3 ,but soon as e'er the beauteous idiot spoke1 ,forth from her coral lips such folly broke ,like balm the trickling nonsense healed my wound1 ,and what her eyes enthralled1 her tongue unbound4 ,how true love grows through a lifetime by tiny1 unnoticed moments is beautifully pictured--to give an instance of a happier use of a coral image--by the nineteenth-century poet ,coventry ,patmore3 444 ,fondness for her underwent ,an unregarded increment ,like that which lifts1 through centuries1 ,the coral reef within the seas4 ,garnet ,the garnet is a hard glass-like silicate mineral4 ,it is found in many colors3 green1 yellow1 orange1 pink and black4 ,when it is a deep1 translucent red1 it can be used to form a beautiful jewel4 ,its name is a corruption of granate1 seeded1 as also in the pomegranate1 the seed-apple4 ,the garnet is sometimes cut faceted4 ,the deep red1 cabochon cut is sometimes called a carbuncle1 which means glowing coal4 ,in trade terms1 the pyrope garnet is a deep blood red2 the almandine garnet a violet red4 ,the ,adelaide1 ,cape and ,colorado 8rubies0 all are garnets4 ,hyacinth ,the color of the flower and the stone have given note to the name hyacinth4 ,in ancient times1 the word was probably used to designate what we call the sapphire4 ,today it is applied to any of the reddish or purplish varieties of the garnet1 topaz1 or zircon4 ,jacinth ,jacinth is really another form of the word hyacinth4 ,it is used1 now1 especially to denote a reddish orange variety of zircon4 ,the jacinth was a favorite jewel of ancient times1 its mention ranging from the ,bible to the ,thousand and ,one ,nights4 ,jade ,two silicates of lime and magnesium are called jade4 ,one1 the true jade1 is a complex silicate also called jadeite4 ,it is a tough substance1 usually green or white1 and somewhat translucent4 ,the other1 less valuable form1 called nephrite1 occurs in other colors4 ,found in ,burma and ,india1 also in ,mexico and ,central ,america1 jade did not enter early into western literature2 ,english mentions of jade usually refer to the horse4 ,the word jade is from the ,spanish piedra de yjada1 stone of the side4 ,it is named from the belief that the stone counteracted pains in the sides and kidneys4 ,and the word nephrite is from ,greek nephros1 kidney4 ,chinese women1 indeed1 clutched a piece of jade tightly in their hands during childbirth4 ,they had a double purpose in this3 the stone1 being an effective charm1 lessened their labor pains2 and1 being a symbol of aristocracy1 it ensured the male infant high rank and the female a successful marriage4 ,mandarins1 though not for the same reasons1 sometimes 8spiked0 their rice wine with powdered jade4 ,a piece of the deep green stone called imperial jade is one of the most beautiful stones to look upon1 and one of the most pleasant to touch4 ,it combines superbly with diamonds to create handsome jewels4 ,jasper ,jasper was a stone treasured in antiquity4 ,although ,biblical references indicate a greenish stone1 the jasper we know today is usually reddish1 yellow1 or brown1 in mottled colors4 ,it is an opaque variety of quartz4 ,the jasper was sometimes used as a symbol of perfection4 ,thus the ,scot poet ,william ,dunbar1 about #aebe1 hailed the growing capital of ,england3 ,london1 thou art the flower of cities all6 ,gem of all joy1 jasper of jocundity6 ,one might suspect ,dunbar of bringing in the jasper to chime with the jocundity1 were it not more likely that he brought in the jocundity to chime with the jasper6 ,jet ,this stone1 which gives its name to its color1 a shiny dark black1 might be called kissing kin to the diamond4 ,it is a kind of lignite1 one of the forms of pure carbon1 differing from coal and diamond only in the arrangement of the molecules4 ,it is an intense black in color but very soft4 ,the name jet is from the ,greek gagates1 which indicates that it comes from ,gagas1 a town and a river of ,lycia in ,asia ,minor4 ,jet1 however1 was known also to the ancient ,celts1 who carved it4 ,although its color has made it popular mainly for religious and especially 7in the western world7 for mourning motifs1 jet has a bright glow upon its black that can be effective in earclips and other jewel forms4 ,kunzite ,named for the ,american gem expert ,george ,f4 ,kunz 7#ahef--aicb71 kunzite is a stone of attractive lilac crystals4 ,it is a transparent variety of spodumene which is a crystalline mineral1 lithium aluminum silicate1 chemically ,li ,al 7,si ,o74 ,spodumene is usually yellow or light green2 in its more delicate shadings1 used for ornament1 it is now called kunzite4 ,lapis ,lazuli ,known from earliest times1 and in high repute as an ornamental stone1 lapis lazuli is a mixture of various minerals4 ,it is azure blue and opaque1 usually with tiny golden flecks4 ,the name means the azure stone4 ,some old-time customs and cures1 persisting in spite of superior smiles and 8scientific0 derision1 have been found to incorporate materials which modern medicine has in its time welcomed into the pharmacopoeia1 the checkbook of current remedies4 ,in ancient times1 lapis lazuli was used as a 8charm0 against bleeding of the nose1 against inflammation of the eyes1 against any kind of hemorrhage4 ,the ,egyptians prescribed lapis lazuli #d1jjj years before chemists noted the astringent qualities of copper oxide--which is what gives the golden flecks to lapis lazuli4 ,malachite ,malachite is a basic copper carbonate1 chemically ,cu,c,o,cu7,,oh74 ,it can be highly polished and takes its name from the green color of the leaves of the mallow plant1 the marsh variety of which gives its name to a popular candy4 ,the stone is used for small boxes and other decorative pieces2 well polished1 it makes an attractive ring4 ,moonstone ,moonstone is a milky-white translucent variety of feldspar1 with a pearly lustre4 ,feldspar 7also felspar1 meaning spar of the field7 is any of a group of crystalline minerals1 made up mainly of aluminum silicates4 ,they are glassy and moderately hard1 and are found among igneous rocks4 ,spar is the name of various shiny materials that break off easily1 in chips or flakes4 ,few of these varieties are used in ornaments1 but the even milk-white tone of a good moonstone makes it effective in jewels4 ,onyx ,named1 because of its pale color1 from the ,greek word for nail1 onyx is a variety of agate4 ,it consists of alternate layers of different colored stone1 as can be seen around the edge2 this makes it prized for carving1 especially in cameos4 ,opal ,the opal was represented in such variety in early times that the word upala was the general ,sanskrit term for a precious stone4 ,the opal comprises a large group of vitreous1 translucent silicas1 possessing the property of refracting light and then reflecting it in a play of colors4 ,silica is a dioxide of silicon1 chemically ,si ,o1 a hard glassy mineral that includes quartz and sand as well as opal4 ,according as the compound includes iron1 magnesium or other elements1 the color of the stone varies4 ,the best opals are the result of a flaw in their formation4 ,being hydrated silicas1 they were at first a sort of semi-liquid1 jellified substance2 as this hardened1 cracks and fissures were created by unevenness in the material and in the speed of the hardening4 ,these tiny spaces trapped air or moisture1 and it is this that produces the phenomenon of refraction and reflection of light and gives the colorings and variations known as opalescence4 ,the play of light is at its best when the stone is cut cabochon1 except for the fire opal1 which is faceted4 ,there are three chief varieties of opal4 ,the common or white opal has a cloudy-white background1 with pastel patches that often give it a veritable sunrise glow4 ,the black opal has actually a very dark green background1 in which there are deep pools of blue and green with patches of flame4 ,rare1 and most magnificent1 is the fire opal1 which seems almost transparent1 its body of smooth reddish orange shooting forth into flame4 ,the opal is a delicate stone4 ,it may be damaged by heat4 ,it absorbs grease1 and may thus become dull4 ,the outstanding and valued feature of the stone is its opalescence4 ,this creates a constantly changing1 almost kaleidoscopic play of lights4 ,it is this variability that gives point to the reference in ,shakespeare's ,twelfth ,night3 8,now the melancholy god protect thee1 and the tailor make thy garment of changeable taffeta1 for thy mind is a very opal40 ,peridot ,the peridot1 a yellowish-green variety of chrysolite1 was popular in early ,england4 ,it fell from favor but was reintroduced from ,france in the seventeenth century4 ,it is a beautiful stone1 often as large as #cj carats1 and again growing in favor4 ,quartz ,quartz is one of the silicas1 chemically ,si ,o1 as is the opal4 ,it is abundant as a colorless1 transparent substance2 it also appears as a brilliant crystal4 ,the name quartz is from the ,german zwerg1 meaning dwarf4 ,similarly cobalt and nickel are from ,german words for sprites1 the gnomes being little creatures that work the mine of the gods4 ,in its crystalline form quartz includes amethyst1 cairngorm1 citrine1 quartz cat's-eye1 rock crystal1 and rose quartz4 ,another main group in the quartz family is chalcedony1 which includes agate1 bloodstone1 carnelian1 jasper1 moss agate1 onyx1 sard1 and sardonyx4 ,these stones are used for beads for carving cameos and intaglios4 ,sard ,sard is a very hard1 deep orange-red variety of chalcedony4 ,its name rises from the fact that it originally came from ,sardis in ,asia ,minor4 ,sardonyx ,sardonyx is a variety of onyx in which the alternating layers are of white chalcedony and sard4 ,it can be cut into beautiful cameos4 ,the sardonyx is not to be confused with the sardonics1 known for their scornful smile4 ,the latter have no connection with the powers of the stone2 they derive their name from the plant of ,sardinia1 the island off ,italy4 ,the plant1 we are told1 was poisonous1 and made its victims sneer while dying4 ,more scientific botanical tales aver that the plant was bitter1 so that its taste at once produced contortions of the mouth4 ,in either event1 the bitter1 superior smile of the sardonic comes from another part of the world than the peaceful sardonyx stone of ,sardis1 ,asia ,minor4 ,spinel ,spinel is so called1 little spine1 from the shape of its crystals4 ,it is a hard mineral1 composed mainly of oxide of aluminum1 with iron or magnesium4 ,the proportions of the metals determine the color1 which ranges from rose pink through green1 blue1 and purple1 to black4 ,the red variety1 rare and costly1 is sometimes called a spinel ruby4 ,it is also known as a balas ruby1 from ,arabian balakhsh1 from the ,persian province of ,balakhshan1 where spinels from pink to orange have long been found4 ,topaz ,the topaz ranges widely in color1 according as other substances are present in the complex aluminum silicate that is its basis1 chemically ,al,si ,o,f4 ,it is transparent1 crystalline1 and may be white1 pale blue1 or pale green2 but the yellow shade 7produced by the presence of fluorine7 is preferred for use in a jewel4 ,it often develops its crystals in large clusters2 the ,national ,museum in ,washington has one weighing #aec pounds4 ,brazilian topaz is genuine topaz4 ,oriental topaz1 however1 is a yellowish crystalline corundum2 ,occidental topaz1 a yellow quartz1 citrine4 ,topazolite is a yellow variety of garnet4 ,the topaz is mentioned in the ,bible as the ninth foundation stone of the ,new ,jerusalem4 ,it has not entered greatly into literature1 being an undramatic stone1 and is not usually at its best when combined with others2 but it can be so fashioned as to display a serene and quiet beauty4 ,tourmaline ,the tourmaline is any of a variety of complex silicoborates1 formed into a brittle mineral1 crystalline stone4 ,it was originally found in ,ceylon1 first being brought to the ,west in the eighteenth century4 ,the surface of the stone has a vitreous lustre4 ,a black1 opaque variety is called schorl2 a blue variety1 indicolite2 a red1 rubellite4 ,the tourmaline is most attractive1 and most frequently chosen for jewels1 in a colorless transparent or translucent variety1 and in deep green4 ,turquoise ,the turquoise was originally found in ,persia1 where it is still a favorite and lucky stone4 ,it was also found along the ,sinai ,peninsula2 but it was transported to the ,west by way of ,turkey1 whence its name1 the ,turkish stone4 ,it is also found in the western ,united ,states and1 in its rare crystalline form1 in ,virginia4 ,the turquoise is a hydrous phosphate of aluminum1 with a little copper or iron determining its color1 from sky blue to greenish grey4 ,it is best when a rich green-blue4 ,the stone is rather soft and is cut cabochon4 ,like the opal1 it absorbs grease and dirt and may grow dull4 ,over-exposure to strong light will cause it to fade4 ,there may often be several hues in the one turquoise2 it is another stone that can be wrought into parures of quiet beauty4 ,zircon ,zircon is really a silicate of zirconium1 an element discovered by ,martin ,klaproth4 ,zircon is chemically ,zr ,si ,o1 a mineral occurring in tetragonal crystals4 ,though it is found in many colors--yellow1 brown1 red1 pastels of green and blue--the colorless and transparent varieties are in demand for jewels4 ,the brown zircon1 heated1 turns first blue1 then colorless4 ,without the diamond hardness and full sparkle1 the colorless zircon more nearly approaches the radiance of the diamond than any other stone4 ,the word zircon is from the ,arabic zarqun1 meaning cinnabar1 from ,persian zar1 meaning gold1 and this indicates the ancients' favorite colors of the stone4 ,it is also called the jargon or jargoon4 ,a red zircon is also known as a hyacinth4 ,,chapter #c ,birthstones and the ,magic of ,gems ,the ,seasons ,precious stones have from earliest times been associated with special powers4 ,not only were they guardians against demons1 but each by its particular virtue warded off certain diseases or other misfortunes4 ,in their astrological aspects1 they could help to arrange1 if not wholly to secure1 a happy future4 ,from this connection with things to come1 the gems came to be linked with various times3 each season1 each month1 even each day of the week1 had its special stone4 ,the season of spring1 with the first flowering of the reborn year1 is considered especially appropriate for the amethyst1 the green diamond1 the chrysoberyl1 the spinel1 the pink topaz1 the olivine1 and the emerald4 ,the bright sun of summer1 that bells the fruit and spreads the foliage1 is best for zircon1 garnet1 ruby1 and fire opal4 ,spinel1 chrysoberyl1 and pink topaz still hold their charm4 ,as the languors of summer tang toward the crispness of autumn1 it grows time for sapphire1 hyacinth1 oriental chrysolite1 tourmaline1 jacinth1 and topaz4 ,then with the challenge of winter come turquoise1 white sapphire1 rock crystal1 quartz1 moonstone1 pearl1 and the gleaming diamond4 ,of course1 the brilliant solitaire1 the diamond of the engagement ring1 is an appropriate stone in any season4 ,the ,days of the ,week ,the days of the week are more intricately bound in gemmed symbol4 ,if you know the day on which you were born1 you can garner all the good fortune that comes with the proper stone4 ,each day of the week1 along with the stone1 bears other significances and powers4 ,sunday ,the golden-yellow day of ,king ,sol1 the sun1 is marked with the yellow jacinth4 ,if one wears this1 we are told1 one has the power of a lion on that day--especially when ,leo1 the lion in the heavens1 takes the summer season with the sun4 ,but also this is a token of secrecy in the man--it ensures discretion1 always advisable1 often essential1 in a lover--while in the woman it betokens generosity1 always desired but not always appreciated by a lover4 ,monday ,the serene day of the moon is the day for pearls4 ,pearls should be bestowed on a ,monday4 ,the color white is bound with them and with the day1 for the snow-white blanket of peacefulness4 ,a man might wear a pearl in a tie clasp1 bar1 or in a tie pin1 which is coming back into favor4 ,the pearl is a token1 in a man1 of friendship1 of integrity1 of a religious feeling2 and in a woman of contemplation1 purity1 affability4 ,tuesday ,tuesday is a more active day4 ,tiw is the ,nordic god of war1 and his name is used to translate the ,latin for ,mars' day4 ,hence its stone is the blood-red ruby4 ,this is a fitting day to hold in memory those who have died valiantly in battle4 ,but it is likewise a day to be on one's guard1 for while the star ruby marks nobility and power of command in the man1 it may also spill over in excess to bloody vengeance4 ,and in the woman1 while the ruby of this day adorns a proper pride1 it may descend to a pettier obstinacy4 ,at its best1 the ruby is resplendent on a ,tuesday4 ,wednesday ,although ,woden was king of the ,nordic gods1 his name is used to translate the ,latin for the day of the fickle and thievish ,mercury1 who was placated on this day4 ,the emerald is its precious stone4 ,the color green may mark jealousy when it flickers in a woman's eyes1 but in a gem it is a token of change4 ,in a man it betokens joyousness1 quick-soaring but transitory4 ,in the woman1 with the ,wednesday emerald comes a spontaneous1 childlike delight in passing things1 a love of variety4 ,this is a good day to hold in memory those who have died in the flower of youth4 ,thursday ,thor's day1 said the ,anglo-,saxons4 ,again they transmuted the powers1 for ,thor is the god of war1 while to the ,romans this is the day of ,jupiter1 king of the gods4 ,it is a violet day1 the day of the violet sapphire4 ,this is a precious stone indeed1 and a potent day4 ,in the man it marks sober judgment1 gravity1 industry4 ,in the woman the ,thursday sapphire denotes high thoughts1 and a love that lifts beyond the body with the spirit4 ,fortunate are they between whom a violet sapphire passes on a ,thursday4 ,friday ,here the ,anglo-,saxons made no mistake1 for ,friya is their god of love1 and ,friday is ,venus' day4 ,friday still feels the force of the sapphire1 but the sapphire must be blue4 ,in the man1 the blue sapphire marks magnanimous thoughts and wisdom4 ,in the woman1 the blue sapphire of ,friday1 especially the star sapphire1 marks courtesy and keen powers of observation4 ,the girl ,friday sees more than she tells4 ,but there is need for caution2 without the stone1 these feminine powers may shift to a colder watchfulness1 accompanied by jealousy and suspicion4 ,beware a flaw in the precious stone1 the precious one4 ,friday is an auspicious day for love1 if love is bedecked with a blue sapphire4 ,saturday ,saturday is the seventh day1 the day of rest4 ,thus the ,anglo-,saxons did not labor to translate it from the ,latin2 it is the day of ,saturn1 the ,roman god of time and growth4 ,saturn was the father and first king of the gods2 his stone is the king of gems1 the diamond4 ,saturday crowns the days of the week1 as the diamond crowns the family of the gems4 ,in a man the diamond marks gravity1 fortitude1 constancy4 ,in a maiden1 it may betoken a certain giddiness1 a flighty fancy that has not yet found its destination2 but in a woman it marks perseverance and constancy4 ,the woman of the ,saturday diamond knows what she wants1 and works unfaltering to attain it4 ,the ,months ,thus1 from the jacinth and the pearl to the sapphire and the diamond1 runs the gemmed story of the days4 ,more fixed in popular imagination are the special stones of the months1 for these have become the birthstones that mark the natal days4 ,in early times there was considerable variety2 today there is general agreement as to these stones4 ,they may have come1 as many believe1 from the twelve stones in the breastplate of the ,jewish high priest4 ,or they may be transferred from the twelve foundation stones proclaimed in ,revelations for the ,new ,jerusalem4 ,the ages have fixed them as memorials of birth1 and one should have at least one lucky jewel adorned with one's birthstone4 ,,table ,,of ,,birthstones ,month ,birthstone ,january ,garnet ,february ,amethyst ,march ,aquamarine ,april ,diamond ,may ,emerald ,june ,pearl ,july ,ruby ,august ,sardonyx or ,peridot ,september ,sapphire ,october ,opal ,november ,topaz ,december ,turquoise ,each of the birthstones is caught into more than one jingle4 ,its powers have been trusted so long that folklore has wrapped them in song1 and truth hangs upon them like the beard of a patriarch4 ,and the stones themselves endow the wearer with the special grace of the natal day4 ,january3 ,garnet ,by her who in this month is born ,gaily the garnet should be worn2 ',twill guarantee love's constancy ,and warm her in felicity4 ,the ,january stone1 at its best1 is a deep red1 or a red shading to violet4 ,with its burgundy sparkle1 it has a dark brilliance found in no other gem4 ,the color of the garnet drew it naturally to association with blood4 ,it has been considered a sovereign remedy against all kinds of inflammation and bleeding and disorders of the blood4 ,since the face flushes with anger1 the garnet was held as a charm against anger2 it was felt to have a calming influence and to be potent against mental disorders4 ,psychoanalysts take long years to accomplish what one may gain just by the wearing of a garnet4 ,pile on the coal4 ,and if there's a hole ,in underclothes1 go darn it4 ,this is the time ,for winter's rime1 ,and for the ruddy garnet4 ,february3 ,amethyst ,the ,february born will find ,sincerity and peace of mind1 ,freedom from passion or from care1 ,if they the amethyst will wear4 ,the ,february stone has a wider range of color1 and may be chosen in any shade from light lilac to a deep royal purple4 ,it is a symbol of beauty and of power4 ,it has been traditionally associated with the ,princes of the ,church1 and down the ages has been the chosen royal gem4 ,out of the ancient ,hebrew comes the thought that the amethyst has the power to prevent nightmares and unpleasant dreams4 ,with its buried meanings of beauty and power1 of power-claiming beauty1 the amethyst was one of the earliest stones to be cut in the shape of a heart4 ,here is a story of the best known and most heralded of the powers of the amethyst1 its potency as a guard against intoxication1 against the evil effects of overindulgence4 ,the god of revelry and wine1 ,bacchus1 we are told1 fell in love with a nymph1 who sought to avoid his tipsy embrace4 7,one needs not the gods to picture such a pickle67 ,this nymph1 however1 prayed to ,diana1 goddess vowed to chastity4 ,diana changed her to an amethyst1 with power to withstand the effects of drink4 ,the frustrated ,bacchus gave the stone the color of wine4 ,hence the amethyst was known to the ,greeks as 8the sobering gem40 ,it should surely be the token stone of ,alcoholics ,anonymous1 for its very name1 a-methyst1 comes from the ,greek1 meaning 8against strong drink40 ,february1 we are told1 is the cruellest month2 its chill seems to call for the warm coursing of an invigorating drink4 ,it is most fortunate that the stone for this month of biting cold is the amethyst4 ,red the cheek glows1 ,still redder the nose2 ,jack ,frost the lips has kissed4 ,spice the hot drink2 ,let glasses clink-- ,and wear the amethyst6 ,march3 ,aquamarine ,who in this world of ours their eyes ,in ,march first open1 shall be wise1 ,in days of peril firm and bold1 ,if they an aquamarine will hold4 ,march is the month when spring rains begin4 ,it is also the month when of old1 after the winter's frost1 men ventured forth again4 ,in the ,mediterranean to the south1 and from the fjords and headlands of the north1 our ancestors pushed their boats out from the shore1 in quest of food and far adventure4 ,thus the gem of ,march is the aquamarine1 whose name means 8water of the sea40 ,and the stone is truly cousin to the waters4 ,at its best it is clear as mid-ocean1 and of a brilliant greenish blue4 ,it has been said that whoever wears an aquamarine can do no dirty deed1 will all his life be clean of body and spirit4 ,for this reason1 the aquamarine is a favorite gift to a newborn baby4 ,sea voyagers today1 as the ,vikings long ago1 for protection from the dangers of the deep may wear an aquamarine4 ,hark how the rain ,beats on the pane6 ,it flushes the world with green4 ,brooks are all high1 ,roads never dry-- ,everything's aquamarine6 ,april3 ,diamond ,she who from ,april dates her years ,diamonds should wear1 lest bitter tears ,in vain repentance flow2 this stone ,emblem of innocence is known4 ,with the magic of spring1 in myriad raindrops lit by the sudden sun1 in the glint of young leaves and the brightness of early flowers1 ,april shares the sparkle of the diamond4 ,for springtime and for its precious stone1 superlatives are the order of the season4 ,the diamond has the greatest brilliance and most power of reflection of all gems4 ,its clearness and its cleanness are unsurpassed4 ,it is colorless1 yet it can show the entire spectrum of colors4 ,the god of mines1 we are told1 created the diamond by pulverizing all other precious stones--ruby1 sapphire1 emerald1 and the gathered host--blending and pressing them into one supreme stone1 a crystal that1 itself without color1 imprisons and releases all the fused colors in its core4 ,more sentimentally1 legend records that in one of his unguarded tender moments1 ,jupiter1 king of the gods1 asked the young man who had rocked him in his cradle to name his own reward4 ,the young man asked that he might endure unchanged forever4 ,jupiter turned him into a diamond4 ,increasingly through the centuries has the diamond been valued4 ,popes have proclaimed its virtues4 ,musical comedies have sung its praises4 ,only the flawless diamond1 the ,hindus pointed out1 has the power to heal4 ,pope ,clement ,,vii stated that the greatest curative potency dwelt in the powdered diamond4 ,in the eighteenth century1 the ,french maintained--to the smiling acquiescence of the feminine kind--that the diamond possesses talismanic virtue only when given as a gift2 a purchased diamond held no luck for the purchaser4 ,this symbolism blent with the meaning of the ring to make the diamond the first formal gift to the loved woman upon betrothal4 ,as the seal of an engagement1 a solitaire is more effective than the old 8writ0 or quill-penned bond2 it symbolizes at once a bond and an indestructible union of power and beauty4 ,there is in this gem1 though it is not always the most costly of precious stones1 the strongest appeal to a woman1 and she is fortunate indeed whose claim to the diamond is a birthright4 ,a diamond in a jewel adorning another beauty sets unrest in a woman's heart1 until she too is asparkle4 ,the diamond is a sign of love2 it confers loveliness1 or at least it imposes pride4 ,it is the ambition of every woman--and it should be the fortune of everyone ,aprilborn--to possess a flawless diamond4 ,after the shower ,brightens the hour1 ,flowers lift on the stem4 ,raindrop sparkles ,till evening darkles3 ,diamond is the gem4 ,may3 ,emerald ,who first beholds the light of day ,in ,spring's sweet flowery month of ,may ,and wears an emerald all her life1 ,will be a loved and happy wife4 ,may is the month when meadows and woods put on their richest garb of green4 ,may is the month of the emerald4 ,the ancients said that the gem was the captured glow of the firefly4 ,deep green and translucent1 this stone at its best is very rare4 ,it was prized before and beyond all other stones and1 for large flawless gems1 outvies the diamond4 ,among church stones it ranks very high2 ,andreas1 ,bishop of ,caesarea1 wrote of the emerald3 8,its transparency and beauty may not change2 we conceive the stone to signify ,john the ,evangel40 ,the potency of the emerald has been extolled in various fields4 ,it was especially prized as a panacea for poisons4 ,in this field1 it was an admirable alexipharmic2 it protected against poison from fangd bite1 and from the gangrene of wounds4 ,it warded off the dangers of poison artfully secreted in food2 also1 of poison from eating the wrong food1 as toadstools for mushrooms1 spoiled food1 or just too much food4 ,and it preserved one from that most pestilent of all poisons1 the poisoning of the mind4 ,still more widespread was the use of the emerald as a talisman and a cure-all for the eye4 ,the calming influence of its dark green hue has been recognized from early times to the modern eye shade4 ,the ,roman ,emperor ,nero1 who suffered from an eye ailment1 used to hold a specially ground emerald before his eye to relieve the strain1 and to enjoy the relaxation that came with its gentle soothing4 ,in the early ,renaissance the watchmakers and the goldsmiths1 their eyes bleary from long strain at their fine operations1 would pause in their work and gaze upon an emerald4 ,the emerald is the only stone that delights the eye without ever bringing fatigue4 ,less worthy use was made of the emerald by those ambitious in love4 ,in the ,orient1 the emerald was the token of love and was often used to adorn the statues of the god or the goddess of love4 ,but later it became associated 7as were the gods themselves7 with the more passionate aspects of love4 ,then the emerald was employed--often1 of course1 as a bribe to the pandar or a gift to the girl1 but also as a talisman--by those who sought success in their amours4 ,it is in its more peaceful aspects1 of the green and eye-enchanting colors of ,may1 that one cherishes the emerald4 ,spring in its glory ,tells the bright story ,of the young year at play4 ,it tries on the sheen ,of gold and of green3 ,emerald's the precious for ,may4 ,june3 ,pearl ,who comes with summer to this earth ,and owes to ,june her day of birth1 ,with ring of pearl upon her hand ,can health1 wealth1 happiness command4 ,and what is so rare as a day in ,june8 ,then1 if ever1 come perfect days1 ,then heaven tries earth1 if it be in tune1 ,and over it softly her warm ear lays4 ,whether we look1 or whether we listen1 ,we hear life murmur1 and see it glisten4 ,what symbol of glistening life could be more significant than the lustrous pearl8 ,it is one of the gems that delights in more than the beholding1 for the feel of the soft fine smoothness of the gem is like the petal of a pansy4 ,while the pearl does not have the brilliance and fire of a well-cut precious stone1 it has a soft glow unique among gems1 and an amazing variety of glints and shadings around its basic hue1 from the purest white to the darkest black4 ,most desired of its dark shades is the 8mordor10 a greenish coppery iridescence over black4 ,this1 however1 is so rare that not more than four necklaces of such pearls are known4 ,more frequent among the valued shades are the cream and the light pink pearl4 ,a pearl is in its very being a symbol1 the triumphant growth of beauty from disease4 ,it marks the victory over drawbacks and handicaps1 the building of one's treasure out of one's disadvantages4 ,from its gentle color and its smooth shape1 the pearl came to be the symbol of modesty and purity4 ,it was endowed with many powers4 ,it brought succor in times of distress4 ,it cemented friendships1 out of first likings fashioning firm ties4 ,it strengthened a weak heart and a weak memory4 ,it gave maids courage to resist1 and men stoutheartedness to overcome1 evil4 ,especially in the ,orient1 where it was first widely known1 there have been many uses of the pearl4 ,it was combined in jewels1 used alone in many-stranded chains1 woven into garments1 woven in or hung upon tapestries that decked the walls of palaces4 ,it was embroidered not only on women's garments1 but on priestly and ceremonial robes4 ,there can hardly be a treasure in which the precious stones are not accompanied by pearls4 ,the soft lustre of the pearl1 and its natural shape1 inevitably linked it with the teardrop4 ,indeed1 what are pearls but the crystalline tears of the angels1 weeping over man's indiscretions8 ,the ,romantics suggested that the pearl may sometimes bring tears4 ,the materialists retorted that the tears were of vexation1 shed by those that could not afford the pearls4 ,but every morning of a clear ,june day1 the teardrops are on every blade of grass1 the glistening dew that is the brief land-pearl4 ,hand in hand ,all over the land ,lover leads his girl2 ,merrily wedded1 ,cosily bedded3 ,june's for the shimmering pearl4 ,july3 ,ruby ,the glowing ruby should adorn ,those who in warm ,july are born2 ,then they will be exempt and free ,from love's doubt and anxiety4 ,with ,july1 the heat of the sun begins to burn into bright flame the colors of approaching autumn4 ,the range of red is in the ruby1 from pale pink to that deep shade known as pigeon-blood4 ,rarest of all stones1 the flawless ruby was endowed with the mightiest powers4 ,the ancients1 feeling its hidden forces1 called it 8the stone of life40 ,the wearer of the ruby had naught but courage in his heart2 he knew no fear4 ,well might this be1 for in his mind the ruby rendered him invincible4 ,the ,russian ,czar1 ,peter the ,great1 who scorned jewelry1 always carried loose rubies in his pocket2 he held one clenched in his fist when he gave orders for the exploits that justify his name4 ,among the healing virtues ascribed to the ruby is power over ailments of the skin4 ,held between the palms of the hands1 it is supposed to put an instant stop to internal hemorrhage4 ,worn against the skin a necklace of rubies1 strung on silk1 similarly made the skin impenetrable to sharpest blade or deadliest venom4 ,in these days of the venomous pen and the deadly fall-out1 it is interesting to note that the ruby necklace has again become popular4 ,to dream of rubies1 one may read in the ,arabic dream-books 7which have many more years of authority than ,freud71 is to be destined to great felicity4 ,good news1 good fortune1 good health1 all lie ahead4 ,of those who possess a fine ruby1 ,sir ,john ,mandeville says3 8,the fortunate owner of a brilliant ruby will live in peace and concord with all men2 neither his land nor his rank can be taken from him40 ,one cloud only darkens the ruby's glow4 ,the ruby itself at times is said to cloud2 and when the gem grows dull1 misfortune is on the wing4 ,the early gemologist1 ,wolfgang ,gabelchower1 a seventeenth-century ,german1 compiled a list of misfortunes that befell individuals after their rubies had developed a cloud4 ,he capped his tales with the confirmation of his own sadness3 he noticed that his ruby ring was clouded2 the next day1 of a sudden1 his wife died4 ,against this evidence ,i can only set my own observation and experience1 and the traditions of a family for four generations involved in the creation of jewels3 ,i know of no instance in which the possession of a ruby was the cause of a misfortune4 ,quite the contrary3 a fine star ruby is a fortune in itself4 ,and fortunate is she who knows the natal glow of a ruby4 ,honest is as honest does4 ,all the country's in a buzz ,from squire down to booby4 ,apples ripening on the farm1 ,fairies keep us from all harm ,binding us with ruby4 ,august3 ,sardonyx or ,peridot ,wear sardonyx1 or for thee ,no conjugal felicity4 ,the ,august-born1 without this stone1 ,must live unlovd and alone4 ,the reddish brown of the ,august stone accords with the drying earth1 and the leaves that herald the approaching turn of autumn4 ,the sardonyx was the fifth stone in the breastplate of the ,high ,priest of the ,hebrews2 among ,catholics it is given honor as the stone of ,saint ,james4 ,physically1 the sardonyx was used as a charm against warts1 boils1 and cramps4 ,spiritually1 it was worn to turn away the evil eye and to prevent the transfer to the wearer of wicked impulses and thoughts4 ,no witch could insinuate evil fancies into the mind guarded by this stone4 ,and the most sardonic remark passed harmlessly by one who wore the sardonyx4 ,on the contrary1 wearing the stone made one witty1 popular1 and happy4 ,august more generously than the other months permits an alternate birthstone4 ,this is the peridot1 an olive green stone so radiant that it sends back flashes even in very dim light4 ,it has therefore been linked with the sun1 whose bright rays it ensnares to hold against future darkness4 ,the peridot was a frequent stone in ,egyptian jewels4 ,from that time1 it has been used to protect the wearer from the dangers that lurk in darkness1 though in the fifteenth century it was maintained that the peridot was effective only if set in purest gold2 this combination made it a perfect night talisman4 ,the stone was a favorite for earrings1 as its power over light was transferred to sound1 to make even the lightest sound quite audible4 ,it also helped lighten the burden of neuralgic pains4 ,for warding off evil spirits1 however1 it was worn only beaded and strung4 ,worn by a man1 the peridot ensured his generosity1 according to countless wives who have bestowed peridot rings upon their husbands4 ,one of the most beautiful of all peridots is high-set in the ,cathedral of ,cologne4 ,mysteriously it shines forth in the darkness of the dome1 giving a lasting memory and quiet reflections to all who have seen it4 ,those born in ,august may be happy with sardonyx or peridot4 ,long the rows of ripened grain ,along the dusty winding lane2 ,do not walk alone4 ,take the moonlit lovers' path ,hand in hand2 to turn ,lob's wrath ,sardonyx is the stone4 ,september3 ,sapphire ,a maiden born when autumn leaves ,are rustling in ,september's breeze ,a sapphire on her brow should bind ,to keep her keen and quick of mind4 ,in autumn the eyes turn upward from the bounteous earth1 past the reds and yellows and browns of the restless foliage1 to the endless dome of the skies4 ,september is the month of the sapphire1 which1 like the heavens1 ranges from a light celestial blue to the deepest velvet-like dark of indigo4 ,it may have the lucid blue and cool brilliance of a mountain lake4 ,its color seems to well from endless depths1 with a rich luminescence4 ,one of the rarest gems1 the fine star sapphire1 was held in repute among ,egyptian astrologers1 who called it the stone of the stars4 ,wearing a sapphire spun the stars into a favorable conjunction4 ,in more than one section of the world of glamour today1 movie 8stars0 carry on this tradition2 sapphire jewelry1 especially with a star sapphire1 is their most potent talisman4 ,in 8the profession0 a sapphire is an antidote for stage-fright4 ,it builds confidence1 brings success1 and at the same time deflects the shafts of envy4 ,the sapphire has also held place in religious functioning4 ,the ,bishop of ,rennes1 in the twelfth century1 hailed this stone as the most appropriate for ecclesiastical use3 8,the sapphire is like the pure sky1 and mighty nature has endowed it with so great a power that it might be called the gem of gems40 ,physically1 the sapphire was thought to effect various cures4 ,the scientist von ,helmhont praised its power for patients afflicted with boils4 ,some thought the sapphire1 for ills of the eye1 even better than the emerald4 ,thus ,charles ,v of ,france had a sapphire set in gold1 to which he had a handle attached1 like a lorgnette1 to hold to his inflamed and painful eyes4 ,queen ,elizabeth ,i of ,england attributed more general magical powers to a sapphire that she wore and with which she never parted until her death4 ,with it1 she foiled countless plots against her life and in ,england's most turbulent times lived out her full allotment of three score years and ten4 ,for the ,september-born1 there is the exultation of the rustle of fall and the sweep of white clouds across a sapphire heaven4 ,harvest moon beyond the hill4 ,harvest happiness1 and still ,watch the hearth's soft-dying ember4 ,deep the night with many stars1 ,love's the locksmith breaks all bars4 ,sapphire's for ,september4 ,october3 ,opal ,fresh ,october brings the pheasant2 ,then to gather nuts is pleasant4 ,but this month's babe is born for woe ,and life's vicissitudes will know ,unless an opal on her breast ,drives off these woes and keeps her blessed4 ,october1 with its sharp contrasts1 is the month of the opal4 ,this gem may be white1 or black1 or of that rare and precious kind1 the fire opal4 ,in its dark greyish background are imbedded the most luminous colors of red1 yellow1 green1 blue1 and purple1 that seem to shoot forth rays4 ,the opal does not refract light1 being an opaque stone2 but its own colors make fine interplay with light4 ,the ,roman historian ,pliny called the opal 8the captive rainbow40 ,the wearer of the stone1 the same authority assures us1 not only will be urbane and courteous but will be free from the spleen of those around4 ,an opal1 like a soft answer1 turneth away wrath4 ,for a while1 especially in the early nineteenth century1 the opal was considered a stone of bad luck2 it fell from favor like one dismissed by royalty4 ,two stories1 one from life and one in legend1 helped produce this aberration2 human credulity completed the work4 ,the true-life story is that of ,alphonso ,,xii of ,spain4 ,he gave a ring1 bearing a magnificent opal1 to his bride4 ,shortly after1 she succumbed to a mysterious malady4 ,his sister1 who next wore the ring1 died a few days later4 ,his sister-in-law next put the precious opal on her finger2 within the month she died4 ,hoping to end the series of sudden deaths1 ,alphonso took back the ring and gave it to no one4 ,alphonso died4 ,the chain was broken when his heirs placed the ring upon a statue of the ,virgin4 ,the legend is a gruesome one recited by ,sir ,walter ,scott in his poem ,anne of ,geierstein4 ,with mystic shadowings and eerie intimations1 it unfolds the story of the wearer of an opal1 who shuns pious references and avoids all contact with holy water4 ,one night a watchful person delivers an aspersion of the holy water1 and the next day1 where the opal-wearer had slept1 there rested only a pile of ashes4 ,only the unthinking1 however1 and the wood-knockers shrink from the beautiful opal because of such old wives' tales4 ,the stouthearted ,empress ,victoria of ,england1 for example1 was extremely fond of opals1 and bestowed upon many of her friends jewels in which opals were set4 ,there are no records of sudden deaths at her court4 ,in #aibe1 at the ,british ,empire ,exhibition at ,wembley1 ,queen ,mary1 passing a booth tended by a miner's wife1 bought a black opal4 ,it is a stone worthy of queenly favor4 ,far from being a sinister omen1 the opal is a stone of good fortune4 ,it is especially sought1 indeed1 by fortunetellers4 ,some of them gaze upon it to induce that trance-like state in which the future spreads before one like a great mirage2 better than a crystal ball are the incessant interplay of colors and the endless iridescence of the stone4 ,an opal on a ring increasingly gives the wearer a view of the future4 ,unlike the man who considered augurs boring1 ,i confess to a keen interest in what makes them tick1 or click4 ,usually their powers are linked to a special stone1 which1 like as not1 is an opal4 ,the famous ,european telepath1 ,eric ,jan ,hanussen1 for example1 believed implicitly in the prognostic power of the stone4 8,anyone could do what ,i do10 he once said to me1 8if he had my opal40 ,certainly the opal is auspicious for the ,october-born4 ,light the fire2 roast the crab4 ,though she dodge the while you grab1 ,kiss the maid still sober4 ,hard the day's work you have done1 ,who would grudge an evening's fun8-- ,opal in ,october4 ,november3 ,topaz ,who first comes to this world below ,with drear ,november's fog and snow1 ,should prize the topaz' amber hue1 ,emblem of friends and lovers true4 ,when nights are growing long and tempers short1 when one seeks the consolations of philosophy 7or memories of ,florida7 to store against the cold1 ,november is the month of the topaz4 ,this beautiful stone is at its best when honey-blond4 ,the topaz was a holy stone1 signifying ,saint ,matthew4 ,two of the popes1 ,clement ,,vi and ,gregory ,,ii1 possessed a topaz of great beauty1 to which were attributed great healing powers4 ,this stone gave the faithful a further impetus to make the pilgrimage to ,rome from the far corners of the world so that their health might return to them with the blessing and the touch of this hallowed stone4 ,even on less sacrosanct hands1 the topaz was esteemed for its many therapeutic virtues4 ,from earliest times1 in accordance with the principles of sympathetic magic1 the yellow color of the stone made it ideal for the cure of those afflicted with jaundice and other ailments of the liver4 ,as the ,november stone1 it was used in the ,middle ,ages to cure the contagions that begin to spread with the onset of cold weather4 ,its soothing color added it to the stones that were esteemed good for the eyes2 the topaz was moistened with wine and laid upon aching eyelids4 ,it also1 many felt1 cured diseases of the mind and helped the distraught to regain their mental balance4 ,the birthday wearer of the topaz is likely to be an upright soul1 with good judgment fortified by wisdom4 ,faith and a deep spirit of charity are within its bestowal1 gifts important in ,november's shortening days and chilly blasts4 ,it is clear that one of the most gracious of all stones is the topaz4 ,the nights are growing dark and long1 ,bitter is the wind and strong1 ,with a wailful moan4 ,let your mirth the time beguile1 ,meet life with a cheery smile ,and a topaz stone4 ,december3 ,turquoise ,if cold ,december gave you birth1 ,the month of snow and ice and mirth1 ,place on your hand a turquoise blue1 ,success will bless whate'er you do4 ,december1 the last month of the dying year1 chill with the shivering threat of its dying1 needs a great virtue to preserve it till it is overtaken by the touch of ,january and the promise of the new year4 ,this great virtue the ancients found in the turquoise4 ,among the ancient peoples of many lands1 it was the common practice to bury turquoises with the bodies of their monarchs and their chiefs1 to tide them over the pitchy paths of transfer and bear them safely to the new world and the new life beyond the tomb4 ,in the pyramids of ,egypt1 in the ,aztec tombs1 in the mounds of ,mexico1 jewels and beads of turquoise abound4 ,at the beginning of life in this world1 too1 the turquoise is welcomed2 there is still no better good-luck gift to a newborn child than a necklace of turquoise beads4 ,it is significant that ,december is the birth month of the ,holy ,child1 for whose nativity the gifts no doubt included turquoise4 ,since the turquoise is comparatively soft among stones1 it can be readily engraved2 magic inscriptions1 charms1 and prayers have been cut upon it1 to add their power to its auspicious glow4 ,the turquoise is thus a protective stone4 ,december being a precipitous month1 when snow and ice are prelude to a fall1 with hillsides hazardous and even a level walk a place where one is prone to slip1 the turquoise is an excellent talisman against falling4 ,in fact1 the saddles of horses have been set with turquoise1 to keep the steed surefooted on journey or in battle4 ,st4 ,george was secure against a fall in his battle with the dragon2 paintings and tapestries of the valiant saint show a turquoise in the hilt of his great sword4 ,opaque though it is1 the turquoise1 because of its bright coloring1 outshines most other stones4 ,its protective value may extend even to material things4 ,it was the ,hindu ,tagore who arose from his pondering of less mundane concerns to report that1 to ensure enormous wealth1 one should look long at the new moon1 then instantly fix one's eyes on a turquoise4 ,illustration3 #ae4 ,,queen ,,elizabeth ,,ii4 ,her ,majesty is wearing the sash and star of the ,order of the ,garter1 a necklace given to her by the ,nizam of ,hyderabad and a diamond bracelet which was a gift from the ,duke of ,edinburgh4 ,her tiara of diamonds and pearls has been worn by queens of ,england since ,queen ,victoria4 7,command portrait by ,dorothy ,wilding1 courtesy of the ,british ,information ,services7 ,illustration3 #af4 ,,pearl ,,and ,,baguette ,,diamond ,,earclips4 ,designed to minimize large ears4 ,the subdued sparkle of the baguette diamonds makes them suitable for both daytime and evening4 ,this jewel was honored with the ,diamond ,u4,s4,a4 ,award4 ,illustration3 #ag4 ,,deep ,,sea ,,algae4 ,the earclips 7only one is shown at the left7 and pin 7shown here of actual size7 of chased #ah karat gold with ornaments of large diamonds were inspired by deep-sea plants4 ,their distinctive character is heightened when seen against a solid color4 ,illustration3 #ah1 #ah;,a4 ,,double ,,rose ,,clip4 ,two wild roses with their foliage form a brilliant corsage of diamonds and platinum4 ,the two flowers are different in size and detail of design4 ,the pin can be separated into two individual clips1 providing a variety of possibilities for enhancing adornment4 ,at the left1 the smaller of the blossoms--the flower not yet fully opened1 the leaves still curled in--is worn on a necklace of round and baguette diamonds4 ,illustration3 #ai4 ,,diamond ,,and ,,pearl ,,leaves4 ,a set of brooch and earclips suitable for almost all occasions4 ,the delicate1 pierced design1 signifying the veins of a leaf1 has both airiness and depth4 ,when the earclips1 similar in shape to the pin1 are worn close to the cheek1 the pearls add lustre to the skin4 ,illustration3 #bj4 ,,pearl ,,and ,,diamond ,,necklace4 ,wild roses of diamonds divide the three strands of pearls in front from the two strands in back4 ,the clasp is hidden in one of the roses4 ,from the collection of ,mrs4 ,cummins ,catherwood4 ,illustration3 #ba4 ,,pearl ,,ring4 ,the delicate lustre of a pearl is highlighted by six marquise diamonds4 ,illustration3 #bb4 ,,queen ,,geraldine ,,of ,,albania4 ,the ,queen's coronation tiara1 made of diamonds and platinum1 shows the royal crest of the 8,ram of ,skanderbeg0 held by a bandeau of ,albanian wildflowers4 ,her diamond and ruby pendant earclips accentuate her violet-blue eyes2 her ,rivire is of alternating round and baguette diamonds4 ,illustration3 #bc4 ,,diamond ,,necklace4 ,a diamond and platinum necklace in a youthful1 flower design4 ,the center motif is formed by an emerald-cut diamond4 ,this necklace can1 with the aid of a simple device1 be worn as a tiara4 ,from the collection of ,mrs4 ,theodore ,newhouse4 ,illustration3 #bd4 ,,diamonds ,,caught ,,in ,a ,,net4 ,this earclip and clip ensemble in platinum and diamonds received the ,diamond ,u4,s4,a4 ,award4 ,illustration3 #be4 ,,necklace ,,for ,a ,,bride4 ,motifs of marquise1 baguette and round diamonds form a delicate pattern of orange blossoms for this completely flexible necklace4 ,recipient of the ,diamond ,u4,s4,a4 ,award1 the original of this design is in the collection of ,mme4 ,a4 ,jaglom4 ,illustration3 #bf1 #bg4 ,,diamond ,,pincushion ,,ornament4 ,a versatile clip1 it is seen at the left gathering a scarf about the hair4 ,it is designed particularly for evening wear4 ,the same clip1 right1 is worn on a neck chain4 ,illustration3 #bh4 ,,marianne ,,ostier4 ,to compliment her red hair and fair complexion1 the author is wearing a necklace of three strands of emerald beads with two diamond and platinum motifs2 matching diamond and emerald earclips2 and a diamond and emerald dome-shaped ring4 ,for less extravagant desires1 the gem will exercise its most beneficent influence if worn upon the index or the little finger4 ,the ,december-born may find a new birth of good fortune with the turquoise4 ,short the days1 the cold spreads wide2 ,be there merry ,christmastide6 ,blessed things remember4 ,old year dying1 ,new hopes flying3 ,turquoise for ,december4 ,signs of the ,stars ,there are some who regard the month of their birth with less concern than the star1 the constellation1 under which they were born4 ,they look into the heavens for the beasts that prowl the sky in the outspread forms of the stars4 ,the ancients1 and all astrologers since1 have discerned a close connection between us in this world and the 8animals0 in the sky4 ,for1 though a few other forms have slipped in1 the circle of stars that mark the year is called the zodiac1 from ,greek zodion1 which means little animal1 from zoon1 animal4 ,the zodiac is the zoo of the sky1 whose beasts 8beset us round40 ,the ,zodiac ,the round of the year begins with the springtime4 ,our starting the calendar with ,january is a new-fangled notion1 as can still be seen in the names of the last three months4 ,the names ,october1 ,november and ,december mean1 respectively1 the eighth1 the ninth1 and the tenth month4 ,the year used to begin with ,march1 the opening of spring4 ,jewels and talismans have long been wrought with the signs of the zodiac4 ,it is better1 of course1 to wear a ring with only the particular sign under which you were born4 ,but the signs have been divided into cycles1 and for each of the three cycles within a sign there is a special stone4 ,wearing this stone1 especially with the sign carved upon it1 increases the charm tenfold4 ,in this fashion the special powers of the animal that rules the period1 instead of opposing1 will enter into and re-enforce the virtues of the wearer4 ,unfortunately1 different astrologers have suggested different stones2 but one who has never failed me believes in the list that ,i present1 for its own values1 each under its cycle and sign4 ,aries1 the ,ram ,the signs of the year begin with the ruttish male of springtime1 the season of fertility4 ,march #bb through ,march #cj4 ,bloodstone4 ,march #ca through ,april #i4 ,amethyst4 ,april #aj through ,april #bj4 ,green jasper4 ,taurus1 the ,bull ,more deliberately1 but with tremendous power1 the year surges on4 ,april #ba through ,april #cj4 ,lapis lazuli4 ,may #a through ,may #i4 ,moonstone4 ,may #aj through ,may #ba4 ,carnelian4 ,gemini1 the ,twins ,castor and ,pollux take the sky1 twin sons of ,leda and ,jupiter as the swan4 ,may #bb through ,may #ca4 ,topaz4 ,june #a through ,june #i4 ,emerald4 ,june #aj through ,june #ba4 ,beryl4 ,cancer1 the ,crab ,and now the year moves backward toward the dark4 ,june #bb through ,july #a4 ,opal4 ,july #b through ,july #aa4 ,agate4 ,july #ab through ,july #bc4 ,crystal4 ,leo1 the ,lion ,patience lashes its tail before the harvest4 ,july #bd through ,august #b4 ,ruby4 ,august #c through ,august #ac4 ,sapphire4 ,august #ad through ,august #bc4 ,diamond4 ,virgo1 the ,virgin ,as this sign approaches1 poets gather their powers4 ,shakespeare and his rollicking fellows sat in the ,mermaid ,tavern1 ,pledging with content smack ,the ,mermaid in the ,zodiac4 ,the slow ripening draws toward the ever wondrous birth4 ,august #bd through ,september #b4 ,chrysolite4 ,september #c through ,september #ab4 ,beryl4 ,september #ac through ,september #bc4 ,marcasite4 ,libra1 the ,scales ,balance the harvest of the moving year4 ,september #bd through ,october #c4 ,coral4 ,october #d through ,october #ac4 ,opal4 ,october #ad through ,october #bc4 ,pearl4 ,scorpio1 the ,scorpion ,armor of the spirit blunts the sting in the tail of the season4 ,october #bd through ,november #b4 ,topaz4 ,november #c through ,november #ac4 ,moonstone4 ,november #ad through ,november #bb4 ,lapis lazuli4 ,sagittarius1 the ,archer ,aim well through the dark night1 for the dawn shall turn4 ,november #bc through ,december #b4 ,turquoise4 ,december #c through ,december #ab4 ,amethyst4 ,december #ac through ,december #bb4 ,diamond4 ,capricorn1 the ,goat ,leap up1 heart1 with glad resounding as light is born anew6 ,december #bc through ,january #a4 ,onyx4 ,january #b through ,january #aa4 ,garnet4 ,january #ab through ,january #bj4 ,chrysolite4 ,aquarius1 the ,water ,carrier ,out of me come all things that live beneath the rainbow4 ,january #ba through ,january #cj4 ,green jasper4 ,january #ca through ,february #i4 ,emerald4 ,february #aj through ,february #ai4 ,crystal4 ,pisces1 the ,fishes ,abundance of untold treasure glints from the depths of the seven seas4 ,february #bj through ,february #bh-bi4 ,pearl4 ,march #a through ,march #i4 ,pearl4 ,march #aj through ,march #ba4 ,pearl4 ,as the zodiac sets a ring around the heavens1 so the zodiacal ring around one's finger sets the sign of heaven in one's fate4 ,if one does not have a special jewel wrought with one's astrological sign1 it may find fit place as a charm on a bangle bracelet4 ,cassius1 in ,shakespeare's ,julius ,caesar1 may exclaim3 ,the fault1 dear ,brutus1 is not in our stars1 ,but in ourselves1 that we are underlings-- but every man is born under a lucky star1 and borne along with the virtues of the stars' configurations1 if only he can make it shine upon his fortune4 ,it should be remembered 7as ,milton records in ,paradise ,lost7 that ,god smiled upon the angels when they came to calculate the stars4 ,if the astrologer has cast one's nativity1 one then may have it fashioned in a jewel4 ,,part ,,two ,the ,art of ,feminine ,adornment ,,chapter #d ,the ,art of ,feminine ,adornment ,from head to foot milady is concerned with jewels4 ,her crowning glory1 her hair1 is today1 however1 left largely to display its own lustrous beauty in coiffures carefully designed for the individual taste and figure4 ,hat ornaments of elaborate jewels have long ceased to be popular4 ,by the beginning of this century even the essential hatpin had been reduced to utilitarian simplicity1 a round piece of jet or colored stone atop a long rod of steel which1 with its sharp point1 not only held the hat in place but made a handy weapon of defense4 ,how much can be worn in the hair depends upon its styling4 ,the chignon1 or other knot behind1 permits the use of comb or ornamental pin4 ,the most elaborate of the combs1 looking best on a tall woman with dark hair1 is the ,spanish comb1 consisting of a few teeth below a large crest of shell often encrusted with stones4 ,less favored1 but attractive with more exotic types1 is the ,japanese pin1 a long rod of carved ivory or of black lacquered wood decorated in colors and usually worn in a pair4 ,few women1 outside of the nobility on state occasions1 wear the metal bands set or peaked with gems1 called indiscriminately diadems or tiaras4 ,such a band of precious metals and stones1 worn by a prince or noble of high rank1 is the coronet4 ,the monarch himself1 as an emblem of sovereignty1 wears a more elaborate circlet or head covering1 the royal crown4 ,royal ,crowns of ,britain ,most famous of the royal crowns are those of the ,british ,empire1 three for the monarch1 two for his queen4 ,first of the three is the reputed crown of ,edward the ,confessor1 which was destroyed by the ,commonwealth4 ,it was reproduced by ,charles ,,ii and1 with its inner ,cap of ,maintenance1 has been worn at all the ,english ,coronations since #affa4 ,it is of 8massie golde0 and weighs four pounds4 ,since neither this1 nor the ,imperial ,crown of ,state1 may leave the ,british ,isles1 a special ,imperial ,crown of ,india1 the third royal crown1 was made for the investiture of ,george ,v at ,delhi in #aiaa4 ,by far the most magnificent of the three royal crowns is the ,imperial ,crown of ,state4 ,this may officially be made anew for each new monarch1 but the crown that showed the glory of ,queen ,victoria in #ahci has with few modifications been used by all her successors4 ,this great crown is adorned with historic treasures of the centuries4 ,the great pearl earrings of ,elizabeth ,i are nested here2 the sapphire from ,edward the ,confessor's ,coronation ,ring2 the ,stuart ,sapphire1 an oval an inch and a half by an inch2 the ,black ,prince's ruby1 large as a hen's egg4 ,although the ,star of ,africa1 the world's largest cut diamond1 a pear-shaped brilliant of about #ecj carats1 crowns the head of the royal sceptre1 two other brilliants cut from the same rough diamond adorn the ,imperial ,crown4 ,one1 the cushion-shaped diamond in the band1 below the ,black ,prince's ruby1 weighs #cji carats2 the other1 of #if carats1 is to the side of the band4 ,literally thousands of other precious stones1 including smaller diamonds of various cuts and sizes1 make the ,british ,imperial ,crown of ,state1 at one time signifying dominion over the most widespread of all empires1 the most imposing of all crowns4 ,everywoman's ,queen ,far from the ,imperial ,crowns though she may be1 every woman is the monarch of her own beauty4 ,when she sits before a mirror1 a woman sees both the material of beauty and the artist who must work with that material4 ,and the first thing an artist must learn is the potentialities of the material4 ,an honest appraisal of what looks forth from the glass is the beginning of its improvement4 ,nature has given few women features without flaw2 and there is little of personal charm in the prize 8perfection0 of professional beauty in the face of the beauty-contest 8queen40 ,even the most beautiful of women can have that beauty enhanced4 ,cosmetics are no more than a base upon which jewelry spreads its charm4 ,jewels are the oldest and most proven help to beauty4 ,and the most lasting4 ,the precious stones that ,cleopatra wore for the admiration of three monarchs still hold their pristine fire1 and no doubt sparkle on the throat and hand of some fair lady of today4 ,if the cost of a jewel is measured against the duration of its usefulness--even apart from its beauty1 its small bulk1 and its ready possibility of resale--it is clear that there is no better investment4 ,nor is there any monotony in a precious stone4 ,it takes new glow in various lights4 ,a little ingenuity will suggest variations in its use4 ,and as fashions change1 the permanent values in the stone itself can be displayed in new settings4 ,a ,stone's ,best ,setting ,the most permanent aspect of the setting of a precious stone is1 of course1 the wearer herself4 ,when asked for his wisest counsel1 the old sage replied3 ,know thyself4 ,as a later poet put it1 8,the proper study of mankind is man40 ,this also holds for woman4 ,a full and frank estimate of the physical features must precede any proper attempt to adorn them4 ,consider1 for instance1 the bone structure4 ,heavy bones are usually associated with wide shoulders1 square cheek bones and strong1 pronounced wrists1 whereas small bones usually mark a slight build1 with slender fingers and small wrists4 ,a woman with wide cheek bones should naturally wear earclips and necklaces that look heavier1 to balance her appearance4 ,this proportion should be observed throughout her jewelry wardrobe1 with heavier and higher-built rings1 bulkier bracelets1 larger brooches and clips4 ,a woman of heavier build emphasizes this fact when she wears a tiny ring and a clip that looks lost on her bosom4 ,on the other hand1 a petite person may easily seem overpowered1 even dwarfed1 by a massive set of jewelry4 ,she will be fittingly adorned with light and airy pieces1 with the stones set individually in a dainty style4 ,types of ,women ,the basic choice1 then1 depends first upon the woman's own characteristics4 ,can she call herself the 8tailored type01 or 8petite01 or 8sophisticated08 ,within each of these general groupings the next consideration is the contour of the face4 ,this may be round or oval4 ,yet there are1 of course1 countless variations within and between these types1 and each woman should remember that her characteristics build up into a distinct and unique personality4 ,it is that unique and precious whole which is herself that each woman should explore1 so as to know her potentialities and her needs4 ,the ,major ,metals ,before settling down to consider details of individual jewels1 there are two more general aspects of jewelry that may be pondered3 the metal and the design4 ,gold1 especially of eighteen karat1 has come back into favor4 ,it is extremely becoming to many complexions for wear during the day and1 provided that it is set with at least a few diamonds1 it is appropriate as well for the more formal jewels of the evening4 ,the whiteness of platinum1 however1 has made it a more favored setting for diamonds4 ,in this connection the new metal palladium must not be overlooked2 its shimmery satin finish makes a superb background for precious stones4 ,it is lighter than platinum4 ,the ,basic ,designs ,the most general division of designs distinguishes the ornamental or abstract1 and the floral4 ,a tailored type will be drawn to and embellished by the ornamental design4 ,the petite person will find that a flower motif enhances her essential femininity4 ,the sophisticated person may well employ a combination of the ornamental and the floral1 seeking style from the ornament1 softness and depth from the flower motif4 ,she can venture further1 too1 toward extremes of style and color4 ,every piece of jewelry should of course be tried on before it is selected4 ,however well it looks in its individual box1 in the arranged setting of the jeweler's window1 or on the velvet cushion in the store1 the important question is how it looks upon the one who wears it4 ,it should be tested against the background of a dark dress1 in the direct rays of daylight and in the soft artificial light under which it will usually be worn4 ,,chapter #e ,the ,earclip ,the ,supreme ,importance of the ,earclip ,among the various articles of adornment that a woman can acquire1 the one that can make the most startling changes in her appearance is the earclip4 ,properly chosen1 earclips can do more to bring out a woman's best features than any other jewel1 and one can play more tricks with a pair of earclips than with one's make-up4 ,a few generations back1 the ears were beneath consideration2 that is1 they were beneath the hairdo4 ,daguerreotypes of our grandmothers show coiffures that completely cover the ears4 ,the 8problem of the ear lobe10 that least attractive feature of the face1 did not arise4 ,but when the horse-and-buggy days were succeeded by our time of streamlined cars and jet planes1 hair styles were also streamlined4 ,the contour of the face is thus more fully revealed1 and the function of the earclip is to give that contour distinction and style4 ,earrings ,through the ,ages ,in earlier periods when the hair was piled high on the head1 or left to flow behind1 the earring was also prominent4 ,indeed1 the history of adornment might be summed up in the story of the jeweled appendages attached to the ear4 ,men were adorned1 in earlier days1 fully as much as women4 ,they wore not only finger rings but earrings4 ,at one of the oldest known cities1 ,ur of the ,chaldees1 a gold earring has been unearthed from the sarcophagus of a monarch who ruled #d1gjj years ago4 ,the burial place of the ,pharaoh ,tutankhamen1 dug up in #aibb1 contained amber earrings4 ,ancient ,assyrian kings1 with their hierarchy of priests and their cohorts of soldiers1 are shown on ancient carvings--all with adornments for the ears4 ,when ,moses was up in the clouds on ,mount ,sinai receiving the ,ten ,commandments on tables of stone1 ,aaron in the valley1 preparing to make gods for the people1 said unto them3 8,break off the golden earrings1 which are in the ears of your wives1 of your sons44440 ,as the ,roman ,republic grew effeminate with wealth and luxury1 earrings were more popular among men than women2 no less a 8he-man0 than ,julius ,caesar himself brought back to repute and fashion the use of rings in the ears of men4 ,in ,persia of the thirteenth century1 the vogue was so popular that the ,sassanian kings had engravings of themselves1 wearing their earrings1 set as signet stones upon their fingers4 ,elizabethan ,england found earrings tossed with the heads of ,italianate dandiprats4 ,shakespeare's ,othello wore them1 and to our own day the stage ,moor 7as well as the cinema pirate7 wears a gold loop in at least one ear4 ,but through the next century the ,english macaronis 7fops who are mocked in our 8,yankee ,doodle0 song7 continued to flaunt earrings upon the ,puritan public4 ,charles ,i of ,england went to his execution in #afdi disdainfully dressed in all his finery1 including a ring in his right ear4 ,perhaps it was the lopping of that royal head that helped to end the fashion for men4 ,women1 however1 have continued to wear earrings to enhance their beauty4 ,at times1 when other jewels were growing oversized1 the earrings also grew enormous4 ,in ,sumer1 over four thousand years ago1 ,queen ,shubad wore great golden half-moons4 ,women in ancient ,phoenicia vied with one another in the size of their earrings4 ,old ,etruscan ear ornaments bore little boxes for perfume or for charms4 ,in the fourth century ,b4,c4 the ,greek hetaerae wore cupids on their ears4 ,queen ,victoria1 twenty-three centuries later1 saw the vogue of gold-rimmed cameos close against the ears1 from which hung larger cameos4 ,but whether it be the stalwart ,bahri matron in ,central ,africa who slips through her ear lobe half a hundred separate loops of elephant hair1 or the proud ,zulu maiden who has stretched her lobes until an ivory tube half an inch in diameter is pushed through1 or the dainty city lass with a pearl clipped close upon each ear--the earring is an almost universal jewel1 worn as an adjunct to human beauty4 ,the ,significance of the ,ears ,perhaps the prevalence of the earrings indicates that something is wrong with the ear4 ,it is an essential organ1 well placed and well shaped for its function1 but aesthetically a bit obtrusive4 ,for note that the ears1 while they frame the face1 are amenable to none of the usual resources of cosmetics4 ,the hair1 in addition to being neatly styled1 can be variously tinted4 ,proper application of powder and color can seem to alter the shape or the length of the nose4 ,the cheeks can not only be colored but by deft use of powder and rouge can be given a different outline4 ,the eyes can be accented with color2 they can be made more naive or more beguiling4 ,the lips can be made to seem smaller1 more sweetly innocent1 more bold4 ,but when all the make-up skills have been applied1 the ears remain unaltered4 ,and yet the look of the ears may make or mar the whole appearance4 ,the choice of earclips1 it should be clear1 must depend not upon the attractiveness of the jewel but upon the effect it has in ameliorating the facial features4 ,earclips can play up a small1 dainty nose1 or minimize a large one4 ,earclips can1 according as she chooses them1 make a woman look younger or older1 smarter1 more sophisticated1 or more simple and sweet--and always prettier4 ,the ,earclip and the ,facial ,contour ,other jewels may with some degree of safety be purchased from the box4 ,a ring1 even a brooch1 will not alter much from the way it looks on the velvet of a counter or the satin of a case4 ,but an earclip becomes part of the contour of a face4 ,it must be seen1 as others will see it1 from various angles1 profile and full face4 ,since no two ears1 no two sides of the same face1 are exactly alike1 both clips should be tried on1 and their effect carefully examined4 ,they should be looked at without a hat1 so that the whole sweep of the head may be considered4 ,conversely1 when hats are being tried on1 one's favorite earclips should be worn to judge their effect with the contemplated hat4 ,however large or tiny--a band of velvet or a fluff of feathers--the hat and the clips should complement one another4 ,on some faces1 at certain angles1 there is a space between the earlobe and the cheek4 ,as this breaks the harmony of line1 it should be covered by the clip4 ,in such cases1 the earclip should be worn as close as possible to the face4 ,if the cheekbones are large or high1 suggesting hollows below1 a large earclip1 properly placed1 will seem to fill out the face4 ,heavy earclips could be set in palladium1 the lightest of the major jewel metals4 ,sometimes a piquant contour can be created1 as when a soft hat is tilted down over one ear1 with the earclip worn only in the uncovered ear4 ,the second clip may then be worn on the jacket lapel or on the dress4 ,the ,shape of ,your ,face ,the general pattern of the face is what must be first considered in the selection of an earclip4 ,an oval face usually goes with a longer neck2 therefore the eye of the viewer should be tempted to minimize the distance between the ear lobe and the shoulder4 ,dangling earclips1 or clips with pendants1 will produce this effect--provided they are not too wide1 for width in an earclip makes the face look narrower4 ,and clips that are too long make one look older4 ,but the oval face will appear chic with a pendant clip1 with stones of different colors and sizes which1 against a round face1 would seem vulgar or overdone4 ,if the face tends to be long and thin1 it will be rounded by earclips broad at the base1 tapering toward and perhaps curving around the upper rim of the ear4 ,a round face1 contrariwise1 calls for earclips that can be worn close4 ,this ensures a youthful appearance4 ,large1 semicircular earclips will look well1 or those with clusters of tiny flowers1 grouped as a bouquet4 ,tiny stones set on prongs1 as in pincushions1 or sunbursts1 will provide a rich frame to the round face4 ,if the chin tends to be heavy1 the earclips should be accented with color and have an upswept look4 ,long earclips are permissible1 if not thin but rich-looking and full4 ,in this case1 however1 they should be worn only with full dcollet or strapless gown4 ,obviously1 small earclips should be avoided on the round face2 they will make it seem broader and the features heavier4 ,similarly1 little bowknots will seem childish4 ,any design that merely follows the lines of the ear lobe will accentuate the roundness1 which properly chosen earclips will not emphasize but use to full advantage4 ,details of the ,face ,other aspects of the features should be considered in the selection of earclips4 ,moles or other minor blemishes may be counteracted by proper distribution of color accents4 ,scars from cosmetic and other operations can be cleverly hidden by correctly designed earclips4 ,they may make a hearing aid completely invisible4 ,a dull or colorless complexion can be brightened with multicolored earclips and necklaces4 ,the colors of the precious stones will reflect and shed their glow upon the skin4 ,bold colors will lend their drama to the face4 ,on eyeglasses1 all color should be shunned4 ,rhinestone-studded or multicolored frames call attention to themselves4 ,the purpose of eyeglasses is purely functional2 they should be left unobtrusive1 not made competitors of the clip4 ,whatever one's complexion1 it can be embellished by earclips of appropriate gems4 ,almost any complexion1 however1 will be flattered by the soft red glow of the ruby or the sparkle of the diamond4 ,if a woman--because it is her birthstone or for other reasons of taste or sentiment--is partial to a stone that does not suit her complexion1 it can be joined with rubies and diamonds so that it will do lovely things for the skin4 ,the larger the earclip1 within the proportions of the head1 the smaller seems the nose4 ,but a woman with a large or pronounced nose should avoid upswept and backswept earclips which follow the line of the ear lobe2 these will stress the vertical lines of the face and accentuate the very characteristics that should be minimized4 ,dome-shaped earclips so worn that1 profile in the mirror1 they point forward at the top1 will underplay the prominence of the nose4 ,this simple trick of bringing the earclips forward will bring the countenance into proper harmony4 ,versatile ,earclips ,an effective earclip1 adjustable to many contours1 is one that rims both the top and the bottom of the ear4 ,one of the jewels with which ,i won the 8,diamond ,u4,s4,a4 ,award0 was such a pair of earclips4 ,it consists of two crescent moons of baguette diamonds flanked by pearls4 ,these are held in place by a platinum wire that disappears behind the ear4 ,the crescents are of slightly different sizes4 ,the clip is reversible1 so that the larger crescent may be worn at either top or bottom1 whichever arrangement gives a more graceful contour1 according to the hat1 the hairdo and the proportions of the face4 ,many patterns of such reversible double clips can be devised4 ,the ,hair and the ,earclip ,especially to be considered is the harmony of the earclip and the hair4 ,to those who enjoy a short hair styling1 the earclip adds softness and helps establish the contour of the face4 ,it is less an adjunct than a completion of the coiffure4 ,those who prefer a chignon will find that flower earclips tend to soften the severity of the style4 ,the ,brunette ,medium brown or brunette hair suggests earclips of pearls and diamonds worn close to the face4 ,the creamy lustre of the pearl and the sparkling brilliance of the diamond form a delectable contrast to the brunette coloring4 ,turquoises and rubies1 as well as corals1 are also becoming1 close to the face as color accents to the skin4 ,for the less formal occasion1 topazes--which run the gamut of color from the golden yellow of honey to the reddish brown of ,madeira wine--may work magic for the dark-eyed girl4 ,if not exaggerated1 a gypsy style earclip may add an exotic touch to the brunette4 ,this must1 however1 be kept within proper size1 and carefully examined from profile to guard against an extreme effect4 ,if one's complexion is light1 aquamarines will be attractive set in platinum or gold4 ,to be avoided are dark sapphires with their colorings of deepest blue1 amethysts of the velvety purple hue and garnets with their deep red cast and undertones of brown4 ,if there are compelling reasons for wearing clips that contain any of these gems1 they should1 by all means1 be set in gold and offset with diamonds4 ,a few diamonds1 however small1 sprinkled around another gem will add to the general effect of beauty4 ,the ,darkhaired ,for the black-haired woman with blue or grey eyes1 the most becoming stones are aquamarine in red gold or golden topaz in yellow gold--both of these combined with sapphires4 ,if the eyes are brown1 the aquamarines should be set in platinum and worn with rubies4 ,the ,redhead ,those who have red hair and a fair complexion will find that the most becoming colors for the ears are the translucent green of the emerald1 the opaque green of the jade1 the brilliant blue of the sapphire and the various shades of the amethyst1 from lilac to deep purple4 ,brown and yellow colors1 as in the topaz and red gold1 are to be shunned4 ,pearls may be worn1 but only if the lustre is pink4 ,other pearls will appear chalky against a fair complexion and will not complement a rosy coloring4 ,for the background of the colored stones1 it is best to choose a light-colored gold or platinum4 ,the ,blonde ,for those with fair skin and platinum hair1 rubies1 amethysts and aquamarines will do wonders4 ,pearls1 alone or in combination with diamonds1 will enhance the soft shades of the hair4 ,diamond earclips1 especially set in loops and floral designs1 will provide a regal look4 ,if the hair is blonde1 sapphires1 aquamarines1 topazes1 turquoises and rubies will underline its golden hue4 ,with blue1 grey or hazel eyes1 deep sapphires are particularly effective4 ,with darker eyes1 mixed rubies and sapphires accord1 or topaz set in yellow gold4 ,pearls should be cream-colored to do their best for a blonde4 ,in the designs and settings1 the plain metallic look of gold and silver should be avoided2 little of any metal should be seen and colored stones should be dispersed throughout the earclip4 ,as the ,hair ,turns ,grey ,the transition to grey hair is most pleasantly accompanied along the line of the ears1 by using the same earclips with the addition of diamonds4 ,with full grey hair1 diamonds alone are superb1 though if the complexion is light some color will still prove charming4 ,best would be amethyst with turquoise set in platinum1 or ,madeira topaz with sapphires set in gold4 ,important ,considerations in ,selecting ,earclips ,women who are slender and petite should select earclips with an airy appearance4 ,an earclip can be large1 yet still be light and airy4 ,such a clip may be designed of pierced metal1 lacy and delicate1 or of twisted gold1 platinum or palladium4 ,long diamond earclips are appropriate only for formal occasions and for evening wear4 ,it must be stressed that earclips should be tried on before they are finally selected4 ,some women1 admiring a pair of clips on a friend1 mistakenly assume that what is beautiful on one person will likewise be an adornment for another4 ,not only each countenance but each pair of ears is different4 ,large lobes may be covered by attaching the clips at a different angle4 ,shaking the head when trying them on will indicate the necessity for adjustment if the clips tend to slide to a different position4 ,because no two ear lobes are exactly the same1 both clips must be tried on4 ,what is too tight on one ear may be too loose on the other4 ,if the difference is great1 the jeweler can make a tiny mark by which the clips may be distinguished4 ,careful testing1 apart from the question of fit1 is particularly important when the earclips are ready-made4 ,the designer in such a case had no single individual in mind1 but a simple adjustment may turn a routine clip into one that establishes itself as a personal adjunct to beauty4 ,an earclip may sometimes1 by an invisible attachment on the back1 be converted into a hair ornament or a clip to be worn on the dress4 ,earclips with pendants can be so fashioned that the pendants may be changed or the hanging part removed for less formal occasions4 ,for any occasion1 from a business engagement to the most formal function1 earclips are an essential and most effective part of a woman's jewels4 ,,chapter #f ,the ,necklace ,the ,symbolism of the ,necklace ,the necklace is the most conspicuous of adornments4 ,the earclip is more subtle1 because it performs a double function3 it is to be noticed for its own beauty2 at the same time1 quietly and without advertising this aspect of its role1 it helps to shape the contour of the head and to bring out a radiant glow in the countenance4 ,in the necklace1 the importance of these functions is reversed4 ,the jewel worn around the neck can play a part in moulding the personality and enhancing its highlights--it must always be chosen with these things in mind1 but its major purpose is display4 ,because of its prominence1 the necklace from early times has been a symbol of high office4 ,it was worn by kings and was reserved for those to be specially honored1 as soldiers returning from victorious campaigns4 ,it is still part of the ceremonial regalia of priests of various religions4 ,the universal employment of the necklace as an article of feminine adornment has led to its almost complete withdrawal from the masculine wardrobe4 ,for formal occasions1 however1 it is still used to designate rank or honorary station1 in some variation of the wide band that goes around the neck and comes down to1 or is fastened at1 the belt4 ,in the ,united ,states1 for example1 the ,president signalizes the bravest soldiers by placing around their necks the ,congressional ,medal of ,honor4 ,for most of its uses1 the necklace is donned without any sense of this long symbolic history4 ,yet it may not be too imaginative to find an echo of this significance in the romantic gesture with which a man places a beautiful necklace around the neck of his beloved4 ,the ,general ,effect ,being the most prominent article of personal adornment1 the necklace requires considerate care4 ,poorly chosen for the particular individual--no matter how attractive the jewel in itself--it may make a woman seem overdressed4 ,stones of the wrong color may make her skin look sallow4 ,a heedlessly selected style may emphasize wrinkles in the neck4 ,with proper thought1 however1 the right necklace1 well fitted1 not only presents its own beauty but adds youth and beauty to the chinline and neck of the wearer4 ,the saying that a woman is as old as she looks gains further truth from the powers of jewelry to contribute to the color of the skin and the lines of the body4 ,the lines that curve upward from the shoulders to the head have much to do with the general impression of youthfulness1 vigor and health1 or of drab weariness1 fatigue1 and age4 ,and it is along these lines that even the most beautiful woman draws on the aid of the necklace and seeks not just the beautiful but the beautifying jewel4 ,the ,diamond ,necklace ,the sparkle of the diamond necklace suits any complexion and enhances the glow of any skin4 ,unfortunately1 its use is restricted to special occasions1 which alas too seldom shed their brilliance upon one's crowded year4 ,at opening night of the ,horse ,show or the ,opera1 the diamond necklace is worn1 as at the season's ,charity ,ball or a ,gala ,concert4 ,it is appropriate1 also1 at formal receptions and1 of course1 should always accompany a woman on a trip abroad4 ,the ,rivire ,one of the most attractive1 dressiest and most timeless styles in the diamond necklace is that single strand of diamonds1 the straight line necklace1 known as the rivire1 or river of light4 ,whether the diamonds are uniform1 that is1 all of equal size1 or graduated around the neck with the largest centered in front1 nothing should be allowed to interfere with the incomparable beauty of the gems4 ,no medallions of precious metal should be allowed between4 ,the one concern of the jeweler should be to achieve the flowing sequence of perfect solitaires1 in one accordant interplay1 a cascading river of brilliance and sparkle4 ,care must be taken with the fitting of the rivire so that none of the diamonds will overturn when it is worn4 ,an expert craftsman knows that the first requirement is the pre-shaping of the mountings1 before the stones are set1 to conform not only to the shape but also to the movements of the neck4 ,a painstaking jeweler may make a plaster cast of the lovely neck and shoulders which are to receive the rivire2 upon this cast he can form the rounding jewel4 ,every good jeweler possesses some of the skills of the sculptor4 ,the round diamond solitaire rivire is1 beyond all compare1 the most brilliant and regal of necklaces4 ,the fireworks of light1 constantly flashing from gem to gem1 echoing and re-echoing their sparkle1 give to the skin a soft and velvety glow4 ,the ,baguette ,necklace ,another beautiful diamond necklace1 almost as attractive as the round solitaires1 is one made of baguette diamonds4 ,it is both more sedate in mood and more modern in style4 ,the baguette necklace1 moreover1 while it is beautiful in its sole array of diamonds1 may also be worn with further adornment--a diamond motif or clip or tassel1 of which more will be said in connection with other necklaces4 ,the rivire necklace1 round or baguette1 is often made so that it can be separated to form two bracelets4 ,it is thus a flexible jewel and can be used on the arm when the informality of the occasion would make the all-diamond necklace less appropriate4 ,the ,pearl ,necklace ,although the diamond necklace1 especially the unsurpassed rivire1 is worn only on the most special occasions1 there is hardly ever an occasion on which a properly chosen pearl necklace is out of place4 ,the pearl necklace is the most beloved as well as the most versatile of all such jewels4 ,the simplest tailored suit will be graced by a tailored choker1 or by one or two strands of well-matched pearls4 ,the pearl necklace can be worn on a sweater1 a high-neck dress1 a ,v-neck dress1 a low-cut gown4 ,i have seen one1 though ,i do not recommend it1 worn with a bikini2 and one1 doubled about the ankle1 taking the place of the thin 8slave chain0 of gold4 ,the pearl necklace looks proper on a simple lass in her teens1 and it graces the frail or fuller charms of an elderly lady4 ,while it is thus general in its range of use1 it is by no means indiscriminate in its bounty2 the shade and the size of pearls must be carefully selected in order for their harmony to enhance the wearer4 ,the ,colors of the ,pearl ,there are innumerable shades of pearls from which to choose4 ,they vary from chalk white through rose pink to dark cream4 ,some of them are greyish or brownish2 these may be becoming if suited to the complexion4 ,the general whiteness we first associate with the pearl is overlaid with these other tones in softest lustre4 ,the simplest way of selecting the tint of pearl that will add its glow to the complexion is to lay the strand against the inside of the wrist4 ,each strand should be moved slowly back and forth and compared with the skin tones4 ,usually one lustre of the pearls1 one particular tint1 will bring out a velvety glow on the skin4 ,this is the proper complementary shade for the complexion4 ,in making such a choice1 it is well to take counsel from the trained observation of a reliable jeweler4 ,for the ,brunette ,for a brunette1 or someone with well-tanned skin1 care must be taken lest the pearls be too white4 ,this will cause a dulling of the glow of the skin4 ,the wrist test described above will reveal that1 for the brunette1 cream-colored pearls are the best4 ,for the ,blonde and the ,redhead ,either a blonde or a redhead1 with a fair complexion1 will find the virtues of her skin enhanced by pearls of a pinkish hue4 ,especially on a blonde1 pearls can be most attractive4 ,for platinum hair1 however1 more than the complexion must be considered4 ,in such cases1 the wrist test is not enough4 ,the pearls should be laid against the hair1 as though to form a head-band4 ,usually platinum hair will accord with pearls of a greyish-white tint4 ,properly chosen pearls will withstand the variations in skin shades due to the seasons4 ,the fairer skin of winter1 the summer's burn or tan1 do not affect the underlying pigmentation which harmonizes with the lustre of the pearl4 ,a woman gives time and thought to the selection of a harmonious shade of lipstick or nail polish2 she should take more pains with the selection of the more permanent and more important necklace of pearls4 ,for a ,long ,neck ,a woman with a long neck will find that its length seems diminished if the necklace is of the choker type1 fitted very closely into the nape of the neck4 ,it should be of uniform size all around1 not tapering down towards the back4 ,if the neck is thin1 it may be made to seem quite attractive in a chiffon scarf with the necklace over it4 ,for a ,wide ,neck ,a tapering necklace1 loosely worn1 with a prominent center pearl1 will tend to pull together the lines of a neck that is wide4 ,a double strand necklace1 hanging with some space between the strands to make it airier1 will also counteract the sense of width4 ,for a slimming effect1 a tight necklace should be avoided4 ,large beads will make a neck look smaller but must not be worn if the neck is both full and short ,with a short neck1 a long string of pearls or beads may be draped loosely over a dress with a low neckline1 without collar or scarf4 ,if the strands are properly arranged1 close together or loose as the neck demands1 more than one strand may be worn no matter how the neck is fashioned4 ,size of ,pearls ,the size of the pearl is also to be considered4 ,on a long neck1 it is wiser to have the pearls all of one size4 ,on a wider neck1 they will be more attractive if they are graduated1 smaller ones at the back and around the sides1 then growing toward a large central pearl at the front4 ,note that with a young girl large pearls are not in good taste4 ,a string of smaller1 well chosen and well matched pearls is impeccable and charming4 ,the ,proper ,stringing of ,pearls ,once a fine strand of pearls has been selected1 it should be strung so as to gain full advantage from its own lustre4 ,the glow of pearls is enhanced by their reflection2 the closer they are to one another1 the more beautiful they all look4 ,knots1 sometimes fashioned between pearls to strengthen their stringing1 should never be made in the front of the necklace4 ,but if this is done1 for reasons of safety1 the pearl stringer must take care to make the knots extremely small and very close with no gaps showing between the pearls4 ,the rhythm of the well-matched pearl necklace with the highlights moving from one pearl to the next should not be disturbed by improper stringing4 ,when a string breaks1 it is virtually always near the clasp2 knots1 therefore1 should be made for the five pearls on each side of the clasp4 ,this is usually enough for safety and does not interfere with the beauty of the jewel4 ,the ,necklace ,clasp ,whatever the necklace1 it must have a clasp4 ,for a single strand1 the clasp should be small and worn in the back4 ,a large clasp is apt to turn or become entangled in the hair4 ,with a pearl necklace1 a clasp of a colored stone1 such as a ruby or an emerald1 will make an effective complement1 highlighting the pearls2 but for any necklace a diamond clasp offers perfect harmony4 ,a frequently available diamond to use for such a clasp may be found nestling next to the little finger of the left hand--the diamond of the engagement ring1 8grown too small along the years40 ,such a stone has lost none of its sentimental value4 ,its sparkle and the memory of courtship nights may be preserved in a necklace clasp4 ,designs for ,clasps ,a larger necklace of double or triple strands naturally calls for a more elaborate clasp4 ,such a clasp should not be merely a functional piece to hold the necklace together2 it should be chosen for its own beauty and harmony4 ,often such a clasp1 with the holding mechanism hidden1 is worn in the front4 ,an effective design1 in excellent taste with most jewels1 may be fashioned in a flower motif with a black pearl in the centre4 ,a smart-looking clasp1 consisting of round diamonds and baguettes1 can be made to separate into as many smaller clasps as the necklace has strands4 ,one may thus wear a single necklace of1 say1 three strands1 or three separate necklaces at the same time or on different occasions4 ,different lengths and combinations of necklaces can be arranged1 in this way1 to suit the mood or various degrees of dcollet4 ,clipped together1 the whole clasp forms a beautiful ornament at the back of the necklace4 ,for ,formal ,wear ,with a strapless evening gown1 where the line of the back should be uninterrupted1 another pattern of necklace and clasp lends distinction to the ensemble4 ,this is an arrangement of three to five strands in the front1 with only two or1 at most1 three smaller strands1 close together in the back4 ,there are two motifs1 one on each side1 separating the back strands from the ones in front2 one of these motifs conceals the clasp4 ,the two motifs1 which may be of diamonds or of gold1 should be visible only from the front1 so as to preserve the graceful lines of the back dcollet2 they can be highly decorative while remaining less formal or less pretentious than a necklace of diamonds4 ,when wearing such a many-stranded necklace1 long earclips1 at other times suitable to an evening gown1 should be eschewed2 the combination will seem overdone4 ,the two clasps and the strands of pearls will be sufficiently eloquent1 if worn together with regular1 not pendant1 earrings4 ,the ,sentimental ,clasp ,a clasp may often be fashioned of an heirloom4 ,there may be a brooch or a ring which has been passed along in a family for generations or been linked with personal and sentimental episodes and memories4 ,or there may be a piece of jewelry which a woman does not wish to abandon--yet which has fallen out of style4 ,what may look old-fashioned on the dress front may preserve all its beauty as a clasp4 ,indeed1 an old piece of jewelry1 without altering the setting1 may in this way be incorporated into a necklace4 ,the very beautiful early ,victorian or baroque flower brooches1 for example1 and rings and ornamental pins of those styles1 may readily be converted into clasps for a two- or three-strand necklace4 ,a brooch may become a centerpiece to be worn in the front1 or it can give an unusual but becoming effect worn at the side4 ,carefully fitted to sit at the proper place at one side of the neck1 such a clasp adds distinction to the contour4 ,fitting the ,pearl ,necklace ,a properly chosen pearl or bead necklace can do much to counterbalance features of the neck4 ,few women realize this and therefore do not pay sufficient attention to their choice4 ,they spend less time on this than on the selection of a hat4 ,yet ,i have seen cases where as little as one-eighth of an inch difference in length made all the difference in the world in beauty4 ,for a long neck1 the necklace should be short and rest on or a little above the nape of the neck4 ,for a shorter and wider neck1 the necklace should come a little below the nape to create an oval rather than a round impression4 ,a heavy neck can be deftly dressed in three or four strands4 ,the first strand should nestle slightly below the nape of the neck with just a little space left between the rows--too much will give the effect of a dowager4 ,properly spaced1 such a necklace will create a slender and youthful appearance4 ,a motif on each side1 by breaking the even line1 will further create an effect of a longer and more slender neck4 ,the ,bead ,necklace ,for thousands of years the lapidaries of ,india have painstakingly1 by hand1 cut1 polished and pierced rubies to fashion them into beads for necklaces4 ,the often uneven shape is preserved so that the slight irregularity of the beads both stresses their preciousness and adds to their charm4 ,ruby beads are usually strung on silk or on platinum wire1 as are beads of emeralds and sapphires4 ,the beautiful glow of these precious stones is soft and flattering1 no less so when interspersed with motifs of brilliant diamonds and baguettes4 ,such an array of rubies or deep sapphires1 directly touching the radiant skin1 is a breathtaking sight4 ,fashions ,from ,india ,the ,indian ,maharanees1 visiting the leading fashion centers of the world less than a century ago1 came with large assortments of these precious gems4 ,the many-stranded necklace1 first seen in the gorgeous costuming of the ,eastern lands1 created a new fashion in the western world4 ,today every elegant occasion is sure to be graced with some of these necklaces of rare and exquisite beauty4 ,i once had the pleasure of designing for ,her ,highness ,indira ,dewi1 the ,maharanee of ,cooch-,behar1 a parure of ruby beads3 earrings1 necklace1 bracelet and ring of enormous stones1 all combined with diamonds4 ,my first visit with ,her ,highness held me amazed4 ,she opened a great cowhide coffer which contained an unforgettable assortment of pouches made of the finest gold brocade2 they held a veritable dream of riches4 ,rubies1 sapphires1 emeralds poured forth--thousands of carats in each pouch4 ,i watched1 as though in a vision of ,aladdin's cave1 while this glimpse of the ,orient was spread before me4 ,it was much as the ,elizabethan poet ,christopher ,marlowe pictured in his dream of the ,orient splendor3 ,give me the merchants of the ,indian mines1 ,that trade in metal of the purest mould2 ,the wealthy ,moor1 that in the eastern rocks ,without control can pick his riches up ,and in his house heap pearls like pebble-stones1 ,receive them free1 and sell them by the weight2 ,bags of fiery opals1 sapphires1 emeralds1 ,beauteous rubies1 sparkling diamonds1 ,and seld-seen costly stones of so great price ,as one of them indifferently rated ,and of a carat of this quantity ,may serve in peril of calamity ,to ransom great kings from captivity 444 ,infinite riches in a little room4 ,other ,necklace ,jewels ,necklaces are1 of course1 wrought with many other stones4 ,there are soft and ,battering shades of aquamarine1 turquoise1 amethyst1 lapis lazuli1 the frequent coral and the aristocratic jade--to name but a few--that look superb on a proud neck4 ,earclips and rings may usually be worn to match4 ,such parures and semiprecious stones make ideal sets for daytime wear1 especially1 since they combine delightfully with cotton and with chintz1 for a young1 fresh1 summertime effect4 ,coral may be used in almost any range of red1 from deep ox-blood to the most delicate hue of pink4 ,the white corals1 especially chalk-white1 are unbecoming to most shades of skin and are not recommended save for that summer shade regretfully called 8new sunburn40 ,whatever the stones1 the color of the necklace should be chosen with regard to the more usual complexion so that the brightness of the jewels adds an accordant glow to the skin4 ,the ,necklace of ,gold ,today the gold necklace is worn in endless variety4 ,it may be narrow or wide2 simple or elaborate2 classical1 antique or modern4 ,a tailored gold necklace can be worn throughout the day4 ,it is likely to have rather heavy links1 and the brightness of the gold will shed lovely highlights on the skin4 ,or it may be fashioned of twisted wire1 sometimes in multicolored gold1 thereby creating a three-dimensional effect in the design4 ,here again the jewel shows how akin the goldsmith is to the sculptor4 ,the dressier types of necklace are worn quite wide4 ,they are daintily made1 woven to deserve the name 8neck-lace40 ,being fashioned of fine metal into open work1 they are flexible and follow the movements of the neck4 ,such a gold necklace can be touched with diamonds or colored stones1 so as to create a lively interplay of highlights which brighten the soft glow of the skin4 ,the metal should be chosen so as to capture not the brazen but the softer qualities of the gold4 ,appendages3 ,the ,tassel ,a charming variation from the plain band around the neck is achieved by the addition of a tassel4 ,the knot of this may be a tight band of gold1 plain or centered with a diamond4 ,the hanging cords may be links or chains or tiny medallions of gold2 they may be many strands of pearls2 or they may be baguette and round diamonds in a tumbling cascade4 ,there is something especially feminine1 and pleasantly gay1 in a tassel4 ,its constant motion keeps it ever freshly beautiful4 ,the tassel may be worn1 for a change1 gaily swinging from the jacket as a lapel pin1 but it is at its best on the necklace4 ,there it will usually hang from the center2 but it should be made detachable so that1 with certain dresses1 it may be put on the necklace at the side to give a different1 piquant air to the ensemble4 ,appendages3 ,the ,single ,drop ,at the height of mid-century necklace fashion is the addition of the single drop4 ,this should not be long1 like a pendant1 but rather one large extra stone1 clipped on close to the collier to add chic and smartness4 ,it may be a pear-shaped diamond1 a grey or a black pearl1 an emerald1 or indeed any stone that harmonizes with the necklace color--though most frequently such a drop is worn on a necklace of diamonds or pearls4 ,the single stone is set with an almost invisible clasp and can be attached to the necklace at any point desired4 ,resultant effects can be startling4 ,the appearance of the necklace may be completely transformed2 a daytime jewel may be transmuted to evening elegance4 ,various moods can be deftly suggested1 or stressed1 by the clever placing of the jewel drop4 ,transformations ,the construction of a necklace so that it can be transformed1 as ,i suggested before in connection with the rivire1 marks an increasing aspect of jewelry design4 ,the diamond necklace1 appropriate only to the off-shoulder evening gown and adorning only the most formal occasions1 spends more time in the treasure chest or vault than any other jewel4 ,its usefulness is increased many-fold when it is so created that it comes apart to form bracelets and clips and other jewels more frequently worn4 ,the devising of detachable parts and convertible jewels is no new-fangled practice4 ,it began in ,france before the ,french ,revolution1 first gaining popularity with a social lite that initiated many fashions4 ,many eighteenth and nineteenth century necklaces also served as tiaras4 ,jewels in our museums today testify to the great skill and ingenuity with which the earlier artists cunningly contrived and concealed the mechanical devices that made possible these transformations4 ,my ,own ,conversions ,one of my own most exacting assignments was to create such a necklace for a beautiful ,viennese ballerina4 ,it was specified that the necklace should separate to form a bracelet and five clips of various sizes4 ,two of these were to form an assorted pair of dress clips2 two were to be matched for the ears2 one was to be larger1 to serve as a brooch but with an attachment so that it might also become a hair ornament4 ,the completed necklace1 which was really a unified parure1 was put on exhibition1 bringing me my first ,gold ,medal fr ,schnheit und ,kunst at the ,knstlerhaus4 ,another of my necklaces1 displayed in color in ,vogue ,magazine1 is separable into two bracelets1 of different size and design1 and a large dip that can be used on a dress or as the centerpiece in other jewels4 ,other convertibles suggest themselves1 once the imagination begins to play4 ,it must be remembered that the problem is complex1 because it is not simply a question of what other jewels a main piece can be broken into4 ,the major concern is how well all the transformations fit the personality of the individual who is to wear them4 ,i have designed a diamond-encircled ring1 the main piece of which is a diamond rose4 ,the center stone of this rose may be changed1 so that a ruby1 emerald or pearl can be set in1 according to the mood1 the occasion and the color of the gown4 ,also1 the entire diamond rose may be detached to become a brooch or a main attachment on a bracelet4 ,another of my convertible jewels is a diamond necklace that can be used as a choker or1 by the addition of platinum chains1 can be lengthened in various sizes4 ,it may also1 with the help of the platinum chains1 be turned into two bracelets4 ,still another convertible--of which there can be many motifs--is a fan-rosette clip1 made to slide so smoothly onto a diamond necklace that the two become one jewel4 ,i have found it a challenge to devise necklaces convertible into other unusual jewels2 many of these have been exhibited and shown on newsreels throughout the world4 ,what a ,woman ,wears1 ,others ,see ,a mirror is the nearest a woman looking at her jewels can come to the world's viewpoint4 ,she wears the jewels2 others should admire the effect4 ,and they will only if the complexion1 the contours and the personality have all been wrought into harmony in the selection of the jewel4 ,the completely garbed and adorned woman is the jewel4 ,few women can buy a different necklace for each garment they are likely to wear4 ,a well chosen necklace should be attractive whether worn close to a high-neck dress or above an off-shoulder gown4 ,it should be tried on with both types of dress before being bought4 ,a good jeweler will not only permit but encourage such a practice4 ,he will lend his counsel out of his wide experience4 ,he will probably be more interested in making a woman happy than in making a sale4 7,even from the point of view of his own financial advantage1 this is a wise1 long-range view4 ,and no woman should go to a jeweler whose interest in her will not be long-range47 ,in addition to a good jeweler1 there should be another male more nearly concerned1 whose opinion is valued4 ,but the woman herself has to face the world with her jewels4 ,they are her adjuncts and intimate accessories to beauty4 ,in the final choice she must remember that the necklace1 most prominent of her jewels1 must capture her own personality and tastefully proclaim her character4 ,,chapter #g ,the ,ring ,while the necklace is the most conspicuous jewel in a woman's parure1 and the earclip does more than any other to make subtle alterations in her appearance1 the finger ring is beyond compare the most popular of all jewels4 ,there seems little to be said about the purchase of a ring except that one should select a beautiful jewel1 and yet there are many ways in which the ring can not only contribute to the overall effect of the personality but actually beautify the hand4 ,the ,giving of a ,ring ,in the first place1 the manifold aspects of its symbolism--to be discussed more fully later--bar this jewel from any casual giving4 ,a brooch1 a clip1 earclips1 or a bracelet3 all these might be sent as a gift to any person1 without further thought2 but a ring is bought for and given to a relative1 or someone closer still--or someone to whom one wishes to be close4 ,and the recipient of a ring should be aware of the implications involved in its acceptance4 ,if a ring is proffered as a gift before there is an understanding that admits of such a present1 the intended recipient will find a gracious way of declining such an 8elaborate0 or 8too magnificent0 or 8over-generous0 gift4 ,consider the ,hand ,the right to give a ring includes the pleasure of selecting a gift that will both please and adorn4 ,this demands some consideration of that fine instrument too often taken for granted1 the human hand4 ,most of the time we merely use our hands4 ,nevertheless1 almost unconsciously yet almost inevitably1 our glance falls upon a person's fingers when we meet1 for the hands are the surest guide to an individual's make-up4 ,and ,i do not mean the 8make-up0 that is applied4 ,faces may be altered2 neck wrinkles may be disguised2 fingernails are dressed up2 chins may be lifted2 noses may be shaped--the hands remain undisguised4 ,the ring calls attention to the hand4 ,it invites the gaze1 which1 while admiring the ring1 is also aware of the fingers that are background to the jewel4 ,and the ring should be selected not only to fit the finger but also to suit the hand4 ,proportions of the ,hand ,a hand may be long and slender or long and large4 ,it may be short and stubby or short and thin4 ,it may taper from the palm along almost straight fingers or have the line broken by larger knuckles4 ,there are differences in the proportion between the fingers and the palm4 ,all of these elements of finger size and shape1 of hand proportions1 should be weighed in selecting a ring4 ,they have an important bearing on the size and shape of the stones1 and on the width or thickness of the band4 ,comparatively few women1 however often they may have polished their nails1 are really familiar with their hands4 ,certain general proportions between rings and hands need little more than mention4 ,a small ring overemphasizes a large hand4 ,on slender fingers or a small hand1 a large ring is overpowering4 ,if a fairly large ring is desired by someone with a dainty hand1 a dome-shaped ring may be most becoming1 or a ring with the stone set high2 but it should be worn only on the third finger4 ,such a ring adds considerable style to an outfit4 ,if the fingers are quite short1 however1 it will be best to choose an oblong ring4 ,if the fingers are long and thin1 the stone should be set so as to run not along the finger but across it2 the eye1 following the ring1 tends to foreshorten the finger length4 ,the ring should fit the personality2 the stone may fit the occasion4 ,the ,diamond ,ring3 ,the ,engagement ,ring ,the engagement ring is1 in all probability1 a young woman's first important ring4 ,there is1 for this1 hardly any choice other than a diamond4 ,the gem1 however1 may be variously set4 ,usually it is a single stone1 the solitaire1 in a plain band of gold or platinum4 ,the diamond may be brilliant cut2 this is conservative but in impeccable taste4 ,it should be set in thin high prongs of the chosen metal1 so as to give fullest play to the light from all its facets and to take full advantage of its irradiating brilliance4 ,among other cuts that are favored for the engagement diamond are the square1 the emerald1 and the pear-shaped4 ,for shorter or thicker fingers1 a highly effective cut is the marquise4 ,this cut is named in honor of the ,marquise de ,montespan1 an elegant1 beautiful and sensible woman who was mistress of ,louis ,,xiv4 ,aware of the somewhat short length of her fingers1 she ordered the crown jeweler to have her ring diamonds cut in the form of an oval pointed at both ends4 ,because it resembles a boat1 this cut is sometimes called the navette1 but now more often the marquise4 ,making the fingers seem longer and more slender1 it at once became a popular diamond style4 ,when testing the appearance of a stone on the finger1 it is well to look at a marquise-cut diamond4 ,while the solitaire is still the most popular engagement ring1 there is a youthful jauntiness in combinations of diamonds which has made the use of several stones a current vogue4 ,almost any newly betrothed maiden would feel keenly disappointed if the ring did not have as its center stone the large solitaire4 ,but this may be pleasantly flanked by smaller stones of different cut1 such as two baguettes lying close along the band4 ,the ,wedding ,ring ,the obvious symbolism of the wedding ring1 as it is often told today1 marks the subjection of the woman to the will of the man1 her pledge to continue to love1 honor and obey4 ,some supposed thinkers in the field of folklore go farther1 and tell us that the ring is placed on the left1 the inferior1 hand to denote that the woman is 8inferior40 ,these ideas are manifestly advanced by men4 ,two facts at once put them out of joint4 ,in the first place1 the wedding ring for long periods of time was worn on the right hand4 ,in the second place1 for equally long periods of time1 both bride and groom had a ring put on in mutual bondage4 ,the basic significance of the ring remains1 however1 twofold4 ,the first meaning is symbolical4 ,being endless1 the ring betokens the love without end that is the hope of the betrothal and the realization of two lives long spent 8as one40 ,the second meaning was practical4 ,the marriage ring was the man's signet ring1 which was as universally obeyed as his direct order1 for the stamp of that seal was as the thunder of his command4 ,by placing this ring on the bride's finger1 he was conferring upon her equal authority in the household and home--literally carrying out what he declared in the wedding service3 8,with all my worldly goods ,i thee endow40 ,it is not subordination but everlasting equality in mutual respect and love that is held in the magic circle of the wedding band4 ,the ,wearing of the ,band ,two rings should not be worn at the same time on the same hand1 except the wedding ring1 which in due time comes to slide along the same finger as the engagement ring to mark the fulfilment of the first ring's promise4 ,as they are to be boon companions for a long1 long time1 the wedding ring should be of the same metal as the engagement ring4 ,the wide wedding band1 though almost universal at the beginning of this century and returning to popularity1 has certain disadvantages4 ,it looks becoming only on a large hand4 ,even there it may make the engagement ring look too small4 ,in more than the size and the metal1 the engagement ring's style should be considered in the purchase of the wedding band4 ,a neutral pattern is simplest to match4 ,it might be an unadorned band of metal or a simple ring of small round1 baguette or marquise diamonds1 or two of these cuts alternating1 set close to the metal4 ,alternating marquise and round diamonds may form a sort of crown design and a most attractive jewel4 ,there is a great variety of possible patterns and styles among which one should select carefully1 for this is the choice of a lifetime4 ,in measuring the size of the wedding band1 care should be taken not to make it too snug4 ,even if one be fortunate enough not to add weight with the years1 the size of the fingers changes with the seasons4 ,they swell a little in hot weather1 and if the band is too tight the finger will bulge on either side4 ,it is better to fit the ring for the ,july finger1 and in ,december1 if necessary1 wear an unobtrusive and attractive guard4 ,the ,pearl ,ring ,after the diamond ring in beauty and popularity1 and freer from any intimate symbolism1 is the pearl ring4 ,the pearl ring is appropriate throughout the day for many occasions4 ,it will harmonize with most colors1 once it has been carefully chosen--as ,i indicated when discussing the pearl necklace--to harmonize with the wearer's complexion4 ,in fact1 a pearl necklace and a pearl ring may make a beautiful combination4 ,the pearl ring is often enhanced by the effect of flanking diamonds4 ,a white pearl against white skin sometimes calls for added light or color4 ,by proper design1 with well chosen accompanying stones1 a pearl may be made to look lighter or darker1 larger and more luminous4 ,i once had a client with a large grey pearl that was not dark enough for her taste4 ,as she was a motion picture star1 moreover1 she had to be concerned with how the jewel would photograph4 ,i suggested mounting the pearl in a high setting with a background of baguette diamonds4 ,the brilliance of the diamonds caught and reflected the shadings of the pearl1 both adding to the depth of its color and increasing the quality of its lustrous tones4 ,it enhanced the lightness of the actress's skin and in her photographs stood out as a most striking jewel4 ,the ,black ,pearl ,beyond all other combinations1 the white pearl stands in superb contrast with the black4 ,the grey pearl also makes an interesting counterbalance with the white1 but the effects of the rare black pearl are unique4 ,crown jewels of almost every kingdom1 active or in exile1 include a design utilizing the values of the white pearl with the black4 ,until recent years1 the black pearl was the most sought after of all its kind1 and wise women today are again appreciating its values4 ,there is no more dramatic accent than the dark lustre of a black pearl against a fair skin4 ,the most striking use ,i ever saw of such a contrast was at a party when ,marlene ,dietrich commanded every eye4 ,she had asked me to design a ring for her with three large pearls1 one black1 one white1 one pink4 ,for her beautiful hand ,i mounted the three pearls high and set them against round and baguette diamonds4 ,shortly after the ring was finished1 ,i saw ,marlene at the party4 ,she wore a simple dress1 high-necked and long-sleeved4 ,with sure discrimination she wore very few jewels3 earrings1 of which one was a white pearl1 one was a black2 and the pearl ring4 ,the striking ensemble could not have been better displayed4 ,there can be great dramatic value in a single pearl4 ,decorative ,rings ,most of the rings a woman wears1 of course1 are purely decorative without symbolism or intent beyond the enhancing of her beauty4 ,the variety of such rings is infinite1 and the range allows wide choice1 no matter what the personality and taste of the wearer4 ,the little finger is often favored for a decorative ring1 and certain flower motifs are attractive there4 ,such a ring should be comparatively small2 the little finger must border the hand with a straight line4 ,this ring requires careful fitting so that it will not turn to the side4 ,women who are active or who move their hands a lot while talking should avoid the pinkie ring1 as delicate settings may be damaged by frequent knocks4 ,matched ,with ,earclips ,a growing trend is to match a finger ring with a pair of earclips4 ,such a set may lend its harmony to an ensemble4 ,there are patterns of dome-shaped earclips that also make attractive rings4 ,flower designs1 similarly used1 if modulated in three dimensions1 can produce dramatic effects4 ,the stones and the design in the ring may be the same size as in the earclips or a little smaller4 ,the sculptor ,rodin hid the hands of his great statue of ,balzac1 because he wanted the beholders' eyes to move directly up to the massive head4 ,but the everyday beholders of a fair lady see her moving hands as well as her lively countenance2 and the matching earclips and finger ring form a pleasant device for tying together the charms of the personality4 ,interchangeable ,centers ,another ring design that has a comparatively new vogue is that with a changeable center4 ,a permanent band and setting are prepared4 ,the best stones for the setting1 to harmonize with any possible center stone1 are diamonds4 ,thus baguette diamonds along the band1 with perhaps a round stone1 or a marquise1 on each side next to the center1 make a beautiful background to any stone4 ,then1 for the center stone1 one may have a varied selection1 using what fits one's mood and the occasion4 ,a pearl1 an emerald1 a sapphire1 a ruby3 stones of similar size can be mounted so that any one can be set into the jewel4 ,in this way1 with the single mounting1 a series of rings can be worn1 surprisingly different in their appearance and effect4 ,there are other changes that can be effected with rings1 almost of the order of optical illusions4 ,if a woman who has been wearing a ring on her third finger transfers it to the little finger1 she will think that the gem has grown--perhaps a carat or more4 ,moving a ring in the other direction makes it seem smaller4 ,perhaps a ring usually worn on one finger really belongs on another4 ,this transference often gives a ring a new added attraction and wearability4 ,the cost of resizing is very small4 ,ring ,sizes ,whatever the finger1 the ring should not be made too tight4 ,as ,i said before1 it is better to have a guard ring1 which1 though a narrow band1 can be made in itself an article of true adornment4 ,should a ring that has not been taken off for some time resist removal1 it should not be forced4 ,some women become panicky when they cannot pull off a ring--as though its obstinacy made them unwilling slaves4 ,a little soapy water will usually prove effective4 ,the moistened hand should be held pointing toward the ceiling1 while the finger is gently massaged4 ,when the swelling seems to have somewhat subsided1 the ring should be turned around and around1 with a slight upward pull2 once past the wide part of the finger1 it is off4 ,if the ring continues rebellious1 the jeweler is equipped with special instruments for the painless removal of tight-fitting rings4 ,if the knuckles are large1 the ring that passes over them will of course be loose where it is supposed to stay snug4 ,here too the jeweler can assist4 ,a simple adjustment1 of which there are several types1 accommodates the ring to the different finger sizes4 ,the ring will slip off easily1 yet stay fixed in the proper position1 neither sliding nor turning around4 ,rings and ,nail ,polish ,more than once1 in selecting a ring1 a woman has rejected one that was quite beautiful1 because it did not look well on her hands4 ,this is an excellent reason--if the hands were not prejudiced by the nail polish4 ,the polish should be fitted to the ring1 not the ring to the polish4 ,in other words1 when the selection of a ring is the business of the day1 a neutral polish or none at all should be worn4 ,after the ring has been chosen1 the polish should be selected to complement the stone4 ,with the colored stones of a dinner ring1 this is important4 ,with a diamond ring1 for example1 the frosty white nail polish should be avoided1 as it diminishes the beauty of the gem4 ,with a coral ring1 the nail polish that suggests itself is of an orange hue4 ,with a ruby1 perhaps a purplish polish1 but not too deep1 lest by its ardor it make the ruby look pale4 ,some colored stones will be attractive with more than one shade of nail polish4 ,a little experimentation and taste can create surprisingly varied and dramatic effects1 as the nails1 differently colored for an evening and for a weekend afternoon1 differently interplay with the colors of the ring4 ,about ,wearing a ,ring ,some fashions in rings and their wearing call for brief comment4 ,although the ,elizabethan men and three hundred years later their sisters in the frenzied ,twenties of this century wore rings over their gloves1 the practice has lapsed from good taste4 ,a ring with a large stone or a dome-shaped design should be turned with this toward the palm before a glove is put on2 there will then be no difficulty nor tear4 ,the current fashion of fingernails keeps them long and almost pointed4 ,a woman who for practical or other reasons wears her nails short will find that her rings appear to better advantage if she keeps her bracelets a little higher on the arm4 ,this1 in a sense1 incorporates part of the wrist into the hand1 giving at that end the greater length which has been lost at the other4 ,rings should always be taken off when the hands are washed4 ,this is even more important when what are being washed are not the hands but the dishes1 for soapy water may harm the rings4 ,it may actually take the lustre from certain stones2 but in any case1 a film of soap on the under-surface of a stone deprives the jewel of that glow it is supposed to have and mars the beauty which is the jewel's excuse for being4 ,no matter how careful one may be1 the ring1 worn on the most animated and active part of the body1 requires cleaning more often than any other jewel4 ,the ring1 as ,i began by saying1 calls attention to the hand which should be well manicured and groomed4 ,but especially the ring should be chosen and worn so that it becomes an effectively contributing part of a woman's beauty4 ,,chapter #h ,the ,bracelet ,early ,uses ,the bracelet 7from bras1 the ,french for arm7 or armlet was in early times worn at various places along the arm4 ,placed high on the forearm and above the biceps1 a tight band gave added strength to the warrior for speedy manipulation of his shield4 ,a woman was more likely to wear her bracelets closer to the wrist4 ,in some parts of the ,orient1 however1 bracelets of coins were worn by the women as evidence of their husbands' wealth2 these might1 band after band1 encircle the entire arm1 making it1 in full regalia on formal occasions1 much too heavy for lifting4 ,in general1 bracelets were worn in styles determined by the fashion of the age and the rank of the wearer4 ,today1 their use is purely for decorative purposes4 ,the ,emperors of ,india ,the earliest bracelets1 among the ancient ,egyptians and probably the ,hebrews1 employed no precious stones1 being solid bands of plain or enameled metal that slipped over the hands4 ,the practice of setting the bracelet with brightly colored gems grew almost elaborate among the ,mogul ,emperors of ,india4 ,two of these royal bracelets of great splendor were carried off from ,delhi by the ,persian conqueror ,nadir ,shah in #agci4 ,the main stone of the right armlet is the twin of the ,kohinoor1 the almost equally famous ,darya-i-nur1 8river of light40 ,it is a diamond of #ahf carats1 recognized as having the finest brilliance in the world4 ,the main stone of the left armlet is a diamond of #adf carats1 the ,taj-e-mah1 8crown of the moon40 ,various ,materials ,among primitive peoples1 bracelets of various materials have been continuously popular1 often several worn on a single arm4 ,the better ones are made of gold1 silver1 or mother-of-pearl2 others are fashioned of iron1 copper1 horn1 beads and other materials4 ,in ,china1 prized bracelets are cut of a single piece of jade4 ,in the ,orient1 the use of the bracelet never lapsed4 ,in ,europe1 the arm decoration--along with other adornment--grew less popular in the ,middle ,ages1 but with the flowering of the ,renaissance the bracelet again came into fashion4 ,types of ,bracelets ,there are two main types of bracelets in general use4 ,first came the stiff bangle bracelet1 a rigid band4 ,this may be of one piece1 the so-called 8slave0 bracelet1 which must be slipped over the hand4 ,or it may be provided with a hinged and a pronged catch or other form of a clasp1 which either opens or loosens the bracelet for putting on and removal4 ,the second type is the flexible bracelet4 ,this may be a linked chain or a series of motifs4 ,in recent years a sort of spring-link device has been developed so that the bracelet opens to slip over the hand1 then tightens to cling to the appropriate position on the arm4 ,favorite ,shapes ,in either of these types1 there are three popular shapes in which the bracelet may be fashioned4 ,it may be tapered1 thin on the underside of the wrist and wider on the back1 which is of course the part most prominently displayed4 ,gold or diamond bracelets lend themselves to this form4 ,more frequent is the straight bracelet1 even all around the arm4 ,this may be of gold1 diamonds1 pearls1 or other stones1 in a single band or in several rows that make a sort of cuff4 ,the third popular variety is a bracelet with a comparatively simple band crowned with a major motif1 centered1 of course1 on the upper side of the wrist4 ,the ,special ,clasp ,this prominent center design may be utilized as the clasp of the bracelet4 ,a separate design for the clasp1 indeed1 may add considerably to the beauty of the jewel4 ,in fact1 an attractive motif for concealing the actual mechanism of the clasp affords one of the few opportunities for making use of another jewel4 ,a treasured brooch or ring1 without requiring the resetting of stones or the breaking up of the jewel1 may be incorporated into a bracelet as an ornamental clasp4 ,the beautiful round or oval ,victorian brooches1 the still charming baroque flower pins and rings1 lend themselves with exceptional readiness to this use4 ,such a clasp1 as a centerpiece1 may grace a many-stranded pearl bracelet1 or one of gold chain or gold motifs4 ,bracelet ,width ,the width of the bracelet should never exceed the width of the special clasp4 ,too wide a band will dwarf the clasp and destroy its decorative value4 ,in this style of bracelet1 the clasp is designed to be a dramatic eye-catcher4 ,for the ,slim ,arm ,if the wrist is small1 the bracelet should be worn low on the arm4 ,a narrow gold or pearl bracelet will be most becoming4 ,too wide a band will tend to make the hand seem bony4 ,a slim arm will seem rounder with a bracelet of slender chains set with small stones4 ,a pleasantly slender wrist calls for a striking bracelet that will hold the eye4 ,it may be tight fitting with a motif on top4 ,this will draw attention to the attractive feature1 in the same way that a beautiful hand is enhanced by a dramatic ring4 ,if the hand is short or if for any reason the nails are worn short1 the bracelet should be set somewhat higher on the arm4 ,this will permit the wrist to blend with the hand in such a way as to give an effect of length1 counteracting any stubbiness at the fingertips4 ,for the ,heavier ,wrist ,a heavy wrist should be adorned with a chunky1 three-dimensional bracelet4 ,similarly1 if the arm is heavy1 the bracelet should be of a bulky1 built-out design4 ,in general1 the bulkier and the higher built the bracelet1 the smaller will seem the unit of wrist and hand4 ,wearing the bracelet higher on the arm will draw the eyes upward away from the wrist and tend to minimize any thickness4 ,if the wristbone is prominent1 a plain bracelet should be avoided4 ,grace will be added by a bracelet studded with bright stones4 ,fitting a ,bracelet ,the stiff bangle bracelet must be fitted to the contour of the arm1 so that it will be comfortable and will stay in the proper place4 ,arms have many subtle differences2 their contours are variously pleasing1 according to the coordination of length1 bone structure1 thickness and rounding curvature4 ,the position of such a bracelet should be decided when it is bought1 and it should then be fitted to that place upon the arm4 ,it should be tight enough to prevent sliding or turning1 yet not tight enough to make the arm bulge on either side4 ,the bracelet should be carefully tested for its place1 as it is difficult and costly to alter4 ,if a bracelet is to be worn over the sleeve of a dress1 again care must be taken to see that it is loose enough to slide and to lie comfortably4 ,neither a bracelet around the arm nor a belt around the waist should seem too confining4 ,any tightness1 as with the olden hour-glass corsets1 belongs below the surface4 ,trimness1 not strain1 is beauty's accordant sign4 ,general ,thoughts ,a bracelet should not be worn over a glove1 unless the glove is to remain on for the entire evening4 ,although gold as well as platinum may form the setting for a diamond bracelet1 a gold bracelet and a platinum one should not be worn together4 ,note that more than one bracelet 7unless all are of very similar design7 is no more flattering a decoration than a single one4 ,several of much the same sort may form a wide-banded unit2 different designs will suggest confusion and clash4 ,as with other jewels1 properly chosen bracelets can accentuate one's attractive features1 and guide the eyes swiftly and unheedingly away from less attractive ones4 ,an appropriate and beautiful bracelet moves the attention from the hand along the wrist1 following the graceful movements of the arm4 ,the ,anklet ,anklets today are worn by exotic dancers and teenagers4 ,in ancient times1 the anklet had two distinct uses4 ,in iron1 it was the sign and token of a slave4 ,as a jewel1 it adorned a woman in her work-free hours1 or a woman whose sole work was to entertain her lord and master4 ,for this purpose1 it might be of gold or of colored glass2 often there dangled from the band gold medallions that tinkled or bells that gaily chimed as the wearer walked or moved in her dancing4 ,the second type of anklet1 in the western world today1 is to be seen only on the stage2 even there1 mainly in musical comedies with an ,oriental setting4 ,but1 perhaps to counterbalance the identification bracelets worn by the young men called to the colors in the wars of this century1 some of the girls they left behind have taken to wearing 8slave anklets40 ,at first a sign of a promised waiting1 these soon became a vogue1 and they are still worn by some young women without thought of any binding attachment4 ,the usual anklet is a thin chain of links of gold1 but some are interspersed with small pearls1 and some have a colored stone set snug in the band1 near the anklebone at each side4 ,they should not be worn in the evening to any kind of formal affair and indeed should be discarded as soon as the teenager has grown4 ,,chapter #i ,pins1 ,brooches and ,clips ,to broach a cask of ale is to set the liquor flowing1 to open the gates of good will2 but the broach 7and it's still pronounced that way even when we spell it brooch7 had as its purpose the closing and the holding together of the dress4 ,in its simplest form it was an awl or a bodkin1 used as a clasp or a fastener4 ,then came the pin with a hinge or spring at one end and a catch or loop at the other4 ,such safety-pin brooches1 or fibulae1 were common in ancient times2 they were in use at least as far back as #ajjj ,b4,c41 and since the third century ,b4,c4 have been developed as decorative jewels4 ,the simple type--in the large size we call it a 8blanket pin0--is still used to hold together the wrap-around ,scots kilt1 preserving the secret beneath4 ,elaborate ,pins ,in medieval ,england the making of brooches developed as a fine art2 in ,kent from the sixth to the tenth century1 excellent examples were made4 ,they were mainly circulars of gold filigree adorned with garnets1 though other materials1 from meerschaum to paste1 were also set in fine gold4 ,however ornamental a brooch may be1 it seldom quite forgets its practical function of holding a garment together4 ,maria ,theresa of ,austria1 on state occasions1 used an agraffe--a hook that caught in a ring1 as a clasp--in which was set the ,florentine diamond1 a great yellow stone of over #acg carats4 ,this was preserved in the ,hofburg in ,vienna until the ,second ,world ,war4 ,even more elaborate were the great brooches the noblewomen of ,england wore in the decorative reign of ,edward ,,vii4 ,sometimes called stomachers1 these masses of metal overladen with stones occupied the entire front of the dress4 ,the ,simpler ,clip ,fashion has returned us to a simpler style and released the dress decoration from its functional requirement4 ,in the #aibj's ,cartier replaced the hinged pin with a metal plate operated by a spring so that counterpoints on its tip bite into the fabric4 ,a jewel so fashioned we call a clip4 ,more recently1 the metal plate has been replaced by two parallel pins1 making the clip still lighter and more versatile4 ,where the weightier brooch would seem unbalanced or topheavy1 the new clip may be used as a pert or pertinent addition to a garment4 ,its ,versatility ,and the clip is the most versatile of all jewels4 ,like the older brooch1 it may be used to close a dress1 to hold a collar together or to gather a scarf into attractive folds4 ,it may be placed so as to accentuate any desired part of a gown3 at any point along a neckline1 on a lapel1 at the side of a dress--usually the left side or at the waistline4 ,it may be combined with a necklace1 as a fresh centerpiece or on the side--though of course a large clip should not be set upon a thin chain4 ,some clips are fashioned to slip onto a necklace and1 by an easy adjustment1 can be made to slip onto a band of platinum or fitted on a diamond or pearl necklace4 ,illustration3 #bi4 ,,mrs4 ,,frederic ,,gimbel4 ,mrs4 ,gimbel wears an ensemble of gold1 turquoise and diamond earclips1 bracelets and ring4 ,the turquoises are selected to compliment her coloring and the distinctive quality of her beauty4 ,illustration3 #cj4 ,,bellflower ,,brooch ,,and ,,earclips4 ,these pearl and diamond jewels are designed so that the free-swinging pearls are in constant movement4 ,for different occasions and outfits1 colored stones or diamond drops may be substituted for the pearls4 ,illustration3 #ca4 ,,bracelet ,,and ,,engagement ,,ring4 ,the simplicity of the ring1 an emerald-cut diamond flanked by two straight baguettes1 complements the elaborateness of the bracelet4 ,the main swirl motif of baguette and round diamonds is an excellent design for slimming a heavy wrist4 ,the center of the bracelet is removable and can be worn as a clip on a necklace4 ,illustration3 #cb4 ,,design ,,for ,a ,,diamond ,,ring4 ,the lacy effect of the ring at the left is achieved by a circle of marquise-cut diamonds which appear to hold the round center diamond4 ,illustration3 #cc4 ,,design ,,for ,a ,,gold ,,ring4 ,this ring of gold wires is set with emeralds and small diamonds4 ,illustration3 #cd4 ,,design ,,for ,a ,,formal ,,diamond ,,and ,,platinum ,,bracelet4 ,a large marquise diamond links the two central crown motifs on each side of which are two baguette ribbons4 ,illustration3 #ce4 ,,diamond ,,and ,,pearl ,,bracelet4 ,this four-strand pearl bracelet has1 as a handsome center design1 three columns of round diamonds interrupted by baguettes and four columns paved with round diamonds4 ,from the collection of ,mrs4 ,alfred ,l4 ,rose4 ,illustration3 #cf4 ,,design ,,for ,a ,,bracelet4 ,a beautiful convertible jewel1 this continuous ribbon of baguette diamonds has three removable flower motifs which can be worn as a set of pin and earclips or three clips4 ,one small flower motif forms the clasp4 ,illustration3 #cg4 ,,tree ,,of ,,life4 ,a sculptured relief in #ah karat gold4 ,the fruits of the tree are here reproduced in round1 facetted rubies1 and would be as effective in emeralds1 sapphires or diamonds4 ,as lapel pins1 they are handsome in pairs1 the fruits in contrasting colors4 ,illustration3 #ch4 ,,design ,,for ,a ,,multi-,,purpose ,,jewel4 ,the detachable center motif of this diamond bracelet can be worn as a clip either separately or on the necklace formed by the side loops of the bracelet4 ,illustration3 #ci4 ,,aurora ,,borealis4 ,the image of three overlapping sunbursts1 left1 is created from platinum and diamonds1 with rubies accentuating the contour4 ,original owned by ,mrs4 ,mischa ,elman4 ,illustration3 #dj4 ,,flower ,,fantasy4 ,an exquisite flower on a graceful stem is wrought in platinum set with pearls and diamonds4 ,a companion piece for small diamond earclips4 ,illustration3 #da4 ,,diamond ,,hair ,,ornament4 ,designed both as a dress clip and a hair clip1 the shape of this jewel suggests a wave in the hair4 ,a special device attaches it firmly to the hair4 ,illustration3 #db4 ,,three-,,strand ,,pearl ,,bracelet4 ,a superb example of a perfectly balanced relationship between clasp and bracelet4 ,the functional purpose of the clasp1 which is slightly wider than the bracelet1 is hidden under the diamond ornament4 ,a matching necklace could have two of the same motifs on each side4 ,illustration3 #dc4 ,,miss ,,blanche ,,thebom4 ,diamond jewelry provides shimmering contrasts to ,blanche ,thebom's dark brown hair4 ,van ,cleef ,arpels created the diamond serpent hair clips1 dome ring and graceful bow pin1 as well as the bracelet and earclips worn by ,miss ,thebom4 ,illustration3 #dd4 ,,canterbury ,,bell4 ,two flowers of different sizes are held together by ribbons of diamonds4 ,a three-dimensional effect is achieved by the built-up flower motifs4 ,this clip can be separated into two individual clips4 ,illustration3 #de4 ,,gold ,,shell ,,for ,,informal ,,wear4 ,this three-dimensional jewel of #ah karat gold is hand engraved in ,florentine finish4 ,the turned over edge is paved with diamonds4 ,illustration3 #df4 ,,flower ,,lapel ,,brooch4 ,long stemmed flowers of emeralds1 sapphires1 rubies and diamonds in a bowl of #ah karat gold4 ,a delightful ornament for a bag1 a hat or a scarf4 ,illustration3 #dg4 ,,mrs4 ,,tex ,,mc ,,crary4 ,a poinsettia of diamonds without visible support is worn by ,jinx ,falkenburg4 ,as a whimsical touch1 she adds a diamond and emerald bell on her forehead4 ,the design of her flower-like earclips emphasizes the perfect oval of her face4 ,when a corsage of flowers takes attention at the heart of the dress1 the versatile clip may be transferred to the evening bag or worn at the cuff of a sleeve4 ,it may be used in ways beyond number1 limited only by the wearer's chosen garments and tasteful imagination4 ,its ,personality ,since there is such freedom of choice in placing the clip1 its position is largely determined by the wearer's personality4 ,in the choice of the clip itself1 as ,i shall indicate shortly1 there are only a few guiding principles1 and these are of a general nature4 ,as a consequence1 a clip is a sort of identification badge4 ,it says1 not ,this is my name1 but ,this is my style4 ,it should be chosen carefully with full regard to the fact that the clip is the wearer's personality on parade4 ,the ,change in the ,brooch ,until about #aibj1 while the brooch was mainly a clasp for the collar or a fastener for the dress1 the favorite form was a bar pin4 ,this might be of gold in various simple motifs1 such as the bowknot2 or it might be of precious stones or pearls4 ,other popular designs were the crescent-moon brooch1 the circle brooch1 the heart pin1 and the four-leaf clover4 ,at that time1 there was likely to be but one dark party dress in the wardrobe1 and the laces and frills of the colorful gowns were beautiful and sufficient adornments in themselves4 ,times have changed1 and in most closets cocktail and party dresses have multiplied4 ,they have also grown streamlined and simpler so that clips1 with earclips and necklace1 may be added to give softness as well as variety to the outfit4 ,whatever the dress--unless it passes the limits into eccentricity--the part of a woman's outfit that attracts the most attention is her jewelry4 ,however stunning the dress1 however striking the bag1 however happy the hat1 eyes will return to and be held by the jewels--especially the jewel displayed upon the dress4 ,and the 8little black dress0 created by ,mme4 ,chanel is still the best background for a beautiful jewel4 ,the simpler the dress1 the more will the beauty of the clip be artfully displayed4 ,the ,old ,double ,clip ,with the expansion of the brooch into the clip came a greater variety of patterns4 ,however1 the bowknot continued popular1 along with the fleur-de-lis and other flower designs4 ,many of these are still being used1 with newly designed settings incorporating baguette diamonds and variously shaped stones4 ,in the #aibj's there was a wide vogue of a flat1 geometrical double clip4 ,the two parts were symmetrical1 so that their balance today seems obvious and without art4 ,it is interesting to reflect at this point that many older patterns1 motifs1 designs1 still seem beautiful in our eyes4 ,there is a charm in many of the ,victorian jewels1 a lasting beauty in the baroque4 ,in the generation just before us1 however1 sculpture1 architecture1 interior decorating1 jewelry1 all seem to have suffered from a lapse of artistry and taste4 ,is this another sign of the eternal rebellion of the children against the parents8 ,must every past style seem antic before it becomes antique8 ,in any event1 the old two-part double clip should either be left in the treasure chest for another fifty years or taken to the jeweler to be remodelled4 ,the ,new ,double ,clip ,the possibilities of the double clip1 however1 are too great to be abandoned4 ,the flat symmetrical two-part clip has been supplanted by a more dynamic1 three-dimensional variety which when used as a unit gives no indication that it is a double clip4 ,the two separate clips are so made that they intricately but intimately conjoin into one unit1 a striking jewel4 ,separated1 the two clips become two different jewels1 of different sizes and possibly even different designs1 though of course harmonious4 ,each remains a sculptured piece2 that is1 it has a three-dimensional quality4 ,the two may be worn on different occasions4 ,the smaller might well become a suit1 the larger adorn a dress4 ,or the two1 used at the same time but not fused1 might make attractive parts of a parure on more formal occasions4 ,on a square neckline1 the two different clips may be so used as to create a different yet balanced charm4 ,or one may give a fresh touch to the hat1 or grace the bag1 while the other is worn on the dress4 ,by repeating a design in two sizes1 or presenting two harmonious motifs1 the double clip increases the potentialities of the jewel for variety in beauty1 while as a unit it creates a striking effect of individuality and power4 ,the ,abstract ,design ,today1 in brooches and clips1 two basic patterns are in favor3 the ornamental1 abstract design1 and the flower motif4 ,the woman who likes tailored jewelry will inevitably be drawn to the more geometrical designs4 ,while these may at times be shapes of deep yellow or varicolored gold1 they will usually be achieved with the aid of shimmering bands of baguette diamonds1 contrasted with round diamonds and colored stones4 ,without regard to the loss of weight from uncut stone1 jewelers are now shaping diamonds in many fancy cuts--which only the most flawless gems can sustain--for the sake of the pattern of the entire jewel4 ,the potentialities of the abstract design are far from being exhausted1 and a jeweler who is a genuine artist has here a fertile field4 ,if a woman has selected a jeweler as carefully as she has chosen her coiffeur1 and finding him good has continued to seek his counsel1 he should be able to suggest or to create a clip that will both express and illuminate her personality4 ,several general designs lend themselves to personal variations4 ,among these1 ,i recommend a clip with baguette tassels from which pear-shaped diamonds are suspended4 ,there are also attractive tailored-looking pins of a feather design1 which1 in gold or platinum1 are effective on many occasions4 ,various loops and bows can be ingeniously intertwined4 ,among completely abstract clip designs are some like lacy seaweeds4 ,others will suggest themselves and may be fashioned to suit every occasion and taste4 ,the ,flower ,design ,less novel than the abstract designs but perhaps more lasting in its effect of peaceful beauty is the flower clip4 ,since the development of photography1 few artists have tried to make exact copies of nature4 ,those who wish to see exact reproductions of flowers in glass may go to the ,harvard ,museum in ,cambridge4 ,the artist in jewelry seeks to suggest the essence of the flower1 its shape1 its color1 the softness of its petals4 7,an astute woman may select her perfume to suggest the flower's fragrance47 ,today even such hard metals as platinum or palladium may be so handled as to convey the delicacy of the bloom4 ,earlier ,flowers ,the flower motif1 in ring or brooch or other adornment1 has been a favorite in many periods4 ,some of the designs have persisted2 others have grown simpler or more elaborate according to the vogue4 ,but in the past few centuries1 there have been few jewelers who have not had in work or on display some flower brooches or clips of precious stones4 ,among the frequently displayed flowers is the open-petaled pansy1 which our grandmothers wore in various colors of enamel1 but which is now patterned in stones4 ,also to be seen is the tiny forget-me-not4 ,the lily of the valley rises on its delicate stem4 ,the water lily seems almost still afloat4 ,carnations and asters more boldly flaunt their patterns4 ,the daisy1 that earlier was often fashioned with white enamel petals and a central stone1 may now be suggested wholly by baguette diamonds4 ,more elaborate flowers and flower clusters were once frequent1 building into nosegays of gems4 ,perhaps the most spectacular of these is the famous ,flower ,jewel bestowed by the ,herzog von ,lothringen upon his wife1 ,empress ,maria ,theresa of ,austria4 ,now to be seen in the ,museum of ,natural ,history in ,vienna1 this historic piece is both a fine example of the jeweler's art and a demonstration for the science of gemology3 among its thousands of carats of gems--diamonds1 rubies1 emeralds1 sapphires1 pearls--may be counted every existing variety of precious and semiprecious stones4 ,current ,varieties ,a flower is to jewelers as a landscape is to painters2 each may look upon the same prospect and produce a different work4 ,some may fashion a comparatively naturalistic blossom1 or a clip of several flowers of different sizes4 ,for these1 colored stones will reproduce the color of the flower4 ,others may work in a more stylized fashion1 merely suggesting the flower shape or framing it into a formal pattern1 as in the decorations of ancient columns and walls4 ,some of these1 indeed1 approach the manner of the abstract design4 ,where the flower is suggested rather than caught in its own colors1 diamonds in fancy cut may be used for the petals with the leaves fashioned of baguettes4 ,the center may be a blue-white diamond1 a colored stone1 or--most strikingly--a black pearl4 ,some such flowers have been made with a central stone that is removable1 so that various gems of different color may produce startlingly different effects with the same basic floral jewel4 ,from the surrounding petals and leaves of diamonds1 it is surprising how varyingly new center stones can shine4 ,the ,rose ,the most outstanding of all flower motifs1 both in number and in variety of presentation1 is the queen of flowers1 the rose4 ,as it ranges far beyond all other flowers in colors and species1 so it lends itself to a multiplicity of treatments in jewels4 ,roses have been made all of diamonds1 white or colored2 they have been shaped of rubies1 of coral1 of ivory and of all the precious metals4 ,notable is a rose clip in which the diamond blossom rises from leaves of baguettes4 ,for simpler costumes1 the leaves can be removed and the flower used alone to adorn a neckline or accentuate the lapel of a suit4 ,together1 the leaves and the flower present a corsage that challenges and outlasts any beauty the florist can supply4 ,the ,skinpin ,gathering favor1 but still sufficiently unfamiliar to be as distinctive as it is attractive1 is the skinpin4 ,this ornament is a jewel that1 by a secret method of my own devising1 may be safely and securely worn on the bare skin4 ,a piquant jewel1 it belongs most harmoniously with the low-cut evening gown4 ,then1 on the bare skin above the dress1 the colored gems or the diamonds are a truly striking display1 their brilliance heightened by the background of the fine texture of the flesh4 ,for more challenging effects1 a butterfly or other appropriate motif on the back or the shoulderblades will enhance and accentuate the beauty of the lines4 ,those who know and enjoy the values of fine jewelry tastefully disposed will do well to investigate the range of uses of the skinpin4 ,the ,scatterpin ,for the lapel1 or in general for casual wear1 many pins have been especially designed4 ,these are frequently shaped in the form of birds1 ladybugs1 or other insects1 as butterflies or as leaves4 ,they may be made of enamel1 or coral1 or semiprecious stones4 ,their main purpose is to add a touch of color and for traveling or for informal occasions they may indeed enliven a costume4 ,the ,jewelled ,hairpin ,a most charming effect can be produced by attaching to the clip a simple device that enables it to be worn in the hair4 ,this use is gaining in popularity1 and deserves even greater spread1 for it is hard to imagine a more beautiful background for a jewel than the well groomed coiffure which is the pride and the prime natural adornment of the ,american woman4 ,several single flowers1 daisies1 forget-me-nots and the like1 may in the hair create a youthful and feminine decoration4 ,the jewels should of course be concordant with the hair4 ,diamonds are most becoming in dark hair4 ,red hair will be even more striking with sapphires2 dark blondes will gleam with emeralds2 light blondes will shimmer in fine contrast with rubies4 ,empress ,elisabeth of ,austria knew the attractiveness gained by the adorning of beautiful hair4 ,her favorite design was the star1 and in her hair she set many brilliant stars1 each with a quivering center that constantly shot forth intriguing1 mysterious light4 ,the ,mobile ,clip ,the technical creation of the mobile center was long a well-guarded secret4 ,it has now been variously recaptured1 and clips may have their beauty enhanced1 when it is appropriate1 with a vibratory motion4 ,the natural movements of the body1 even the soft rise and fall of the bosom as one takes breath1 suffice to make the tiny stems quiver and the gems at their tips give ever fresh play of light4 ,thus a delicate wire may lift a deep red ruby as the stamen of a flower1 alive in its motion and varying gleam4 ,or a diamond on a quivering stem may seem to dance with airiness and light4 ,a spread of platinum angel-fern may move its delicate fronds2 a sprig of heather in fine metal and stone vibrate with the lilt of the ,highlands4 ,the many ways in which the mobile clip can add life to one's wardrobe are beyond enumeration2 all are at once eye-catching and continuously alluring4 ,the ,sentimental ,brooch ,more than all other jewels1 the pin and the brooch have attached to themselves sentimental associations and values beyond their intrinsic or artistic worth4 ,a ring may often preserve the memory of a dear person or a cherished occasion1 but it is seldom large enough for an actual memento4 ,anne ,boleyn1 wife of ,henry ,,viii of ,england1 had a portrait of herself hidden in a ring of diamonds and mother-of-pearl2 when she was taken to be executed she gave the ring to her little daughter1 who in turn kept it hidden until she ascended the throne as ,queen ,elizabeth ,i4 ,but more often such miniatures1 set in what was called a picture-box1 were worn on a chain or as a brooch4 ,the clip is still too new to have developed these sentimental associations but1 being merely a brooch with a modernized fastener1 it will no doubt gather to itself a goodly store of memories4 ,in addition to a miniature portrait or a painting of a familiar scene1 such as the country home of one held to a life in the city1 the brooch may contain other ties to things beloved4 ,under a transparent stone or coat of colorless enamel may be pressed a lock of hair4 ,the jewel itself may be shaped so as to symbolize a family--as a coat of arms2 or a people--as the maple leaf worn by ,queen ,elizabeth ,,ii1 a gift from and a symbol of the ,commonwealth of ,canada4 ,the lady who launches a ship receives1 from the builders or the owners1 a diamond pin that is indeed1 to her and those that come after her1 a precious memento of a signal occasion4 ,replicas of ,pets ,popular among the special brooches with personal ties are those that represent or memorialize a beloved pet4 ,i have made several portraits of dogs in gold and precious stones1 worked so as not merely to resemble the features but in some degree to capture the individual characteristics of the animal4 ,one of these ,i especially prize1 as it evokes1 to me and to my family and friends1 my own and favorite dog4 ,in ,vienna1 our firm was once commissioned by the ,emperor ,franz ,josef ,i to create a brooch bearing the likeness of one of his great beloved ,lippizaner stallions1 the one that is immortalized in the novel ,florian4 ,this pin contains hundreds of diamonds2 those that make up the mane and the tail had to be specially cut and are so small that it takes more than a thousand to make a carat4 ,the ,emperor prized the jewel and gave it to his favorite actress1 the ,baroness von ,schratt4 ,after the ,baroness's death1 her treasures were sold1 and we are happy to state that the jewel horse is now back with the firm that made it4 ,pins ,hold ,memories ,perhaps because of these various associations1 it seems that a more personal aura glows about a brooch than any other jewel4 ,it may be merely because a loved one has worn it earlier4 ,a sort of intimate1 binding emotion draws one to the jewel1 such as no article of clothing1 no accessory--scarf1 gloves1 hair band--can ever work into a spell4 ,other jewels1 especially the ring1 may gather associations around them1 but preeminently heart-entangling is the brooch4 ,my grandmother1 for instance1 on many gay occasions when ,i was a child1 wore high on her collar a beautiful emerald brooch4 ,long passed from sight and never spoken of1 it finally came to me as a family heirloom4 ,and at once my heart quickened with a fresh surge of memory4 ,i had1 and still have1 a vivid recollection of how she looked when she was wearing it1 and many a pleasant time ,i summon back4 ,i cherish this brooch more and more along the passing years4 ,thus in many families a treasured and memoried pin holds as a binder between the generations4 ,in these days of widely scattered families1 such a brooch can indeed be an endearing tie4 ,practical ,principles ,as ,i have said1 there are just a few general thoughts to be kept in mind when selecting a brooch or clip4 ,the gold clip is admirable for daytime use4 ,until a few years ago1 this might be quite a solid1 heavy-looking jewel4 ,today it is light1 even lacy2 often it is made of fine wires1 perhaps twisted or stranded1 and intricately worked1 like similar jewels of the ,renaissance4 ,the jewel itself may be large1 but the light and lacy effect will maintain its charm4 ,when a clip1 in the hair or on the dress1 is worn with earclips1 it need not be the same as these1 but it should be of the same material and of course should harmonize4 ,usually the earclips set the pattern1 because they must be carefully chosen to fit the features2 the greater freedom of choice with the clip permits one to select many attractive designs that will conform4 ,if the earclips are of rubies or of emeralds1 the clip should be the same4 ,only the diamond will consort with any other stone4 ,so far as balancing the brooch to the build is concerned1 the principles are very simple4 ,a woman with a heavy figure should avoid small and delicate clips and select large ornamental designs4 ,a woman of slighter frame should wear small clips4 ,a brooch pinned high on the bodice will seem to give the wearer added height4 ,more than other jewels1 the clip presents the personality4 ,it challenges the attention and invites the judgment4 ,if it is well chosen1 so that it truly establishes the wearer's nature and taste1 it may be worn with confidence and pride4 ,,chapter #aj ,watches ,queen ,elizabeth ,i ,the watch was an article of utility that became an article of fashion1 hence was woven into a jewel4 ,queen ,elizabeth ,i of ,england owned more than two dozen watches1 some dangling from her girdle1 one at her wrist4 ,four of them were gifts from one courtier1 the ,earl of ,leicester4 ,all were elaborately designed in various shapes1 with cameos or many jewels4 ,they were changed according to the costume4 ,the ,queen had a special page whose duty it was to wind them4 ,princess ,sophia ,even more watches were in the possession of ,sophia ,dorothea of ,brunswig-,lneberg1 though she came to have little need of them4 ,the wife of the ,crown ,prince of ,hanover1 she became involved in intrigue and was accused of a liaison with a ,swedish nobleman2 she saw her marriage annulled1 then spent thirty-two years in prison4 ,her released husband became ,george ,i of ,england2 her son1 ,george ,,ii2 her grandson 7through a second ,sophia ,dorothea71 ,frederick the ,great of ,prussia4 ,in the heyday of her beauty and gaiety at the ,hanoverian court1 ,princess ,sophia possessed over fifty watches1 many of their cases made of a single large stone1 such as a lapis lazuli or an onyx4 ,early ,forms ,because the early watches were in the main large and ugly1 handsome cases were designed for them4 ,as each watch was made individually1 a painstaking jeweler could create a smaller instrument1 such as the bracelet watch4 ,mme4 de ,pompadour wore a watch in a gold finger ring1 set round with diamonds4 ,watches were also made with extra devices4 ,some1 at a time set in advance1 would ring an alarm4 ,some would when pressed chime to reveal the present hour4 ,in all these early watches1 accuracy was not the goal4 ,in fact1 it was not until about #afhj that most watches were equipped with a minute hand2 before that1 one pointer marked the passage of the hours4 ,these watches were worn1 by gallant gentlemen1 less for checking their business1 of which they had little1 than for adding to their finery1 of which they had much4 ,the time they could spare from the adornment of their persons they devoted to the neglect of their duties4 ,often indeed there was a watch at each end of the chain1 and both might be taken out at the same time1 with ostentatious comparing of their accuracy4 ,william ,cowper in eighteenth-century ,england neatly pinned such gallants3 ,an idler is a watch that wants both hands1 ,as useless when it goes as when it stands4 ,and the ,earl of ,chesterfield1 prince of etiquette in his day1 admonished his son3 8,wear your learning1 like your watch1 in a private pocket2 and do not pull it out and strike it1 merely to show that you have one40 ,gradually1 as businessmen saw the usefulness of the watch in marking time for engagements1 the accuracy of the instrument increased1 and with that the frequency of its use4 ,where to ,wear the ,watch ,for practical purposes today1 the wrist watch is almost universal4 ,the watch on the wrist of ,queen ,elizabeth ,i of ,england dangled from a bracelet2 the watch in the bracelet is a distinctive development of our own time4 ,railroad men and some others still prefer the larger pocket watch1 but the accuracy of the good wrist watch suffices for all save the finest scientific measurements of time4 ,that the timepiece1 nevertheless1 remains partly a fad and a fashion is made clear by the many less practical ways in which it is mounted4 ,watches have been designed in rings1 on cuff links1 buttons1 heads of canes2 on knives1 notebooks1 lipsticks--,time for a fresh application6--on cigarette cases and lighters1 wallets1 ladies' garters--,time6 ,sometimes1 especially for more formal wear1 the pocket watch is still worn1 not with a chain but with a fob4 ,in the vest1 or in the right front 8of the waistband of the breeches10 is a special pocket for the watch4 ,to the watch is attached a black ribbon that hangs out and forms the background for a medal1 a seal1 or other jewel4 ,oliver ,cromwell wore a watch fob4 ,this method of wearing a watch was especially fashionable--in spite of the notice the fob gives to a pickpocket--from about #ahge until #aiad1 when the ,world ,war popularized the wrist watch4 ,fifty years ago1 every college ,senior wore a fob with his school's coat-of-arms and his class4 ,the fob is still affected by certain clubmen1 bearing the jeweled insignia of the club4 ,a recent chronometrical development for the fairer sex is the watchclip4 ,this jewel possesses all the versatility of the clip itself1 with the added usefulness of the timepiece4 ,the watch face can of course be cunningly hidden1 in the heart of a flower1 or as an element of an abstract design4 ,it may be worn on a low neckline1 at a lapel1 at the cuff1 or even on a bracelet4 ,for a woman during business hours1 or at golf1 there is good reason for wearing a watch4 ,the wrist watch is the best4 ,for sports1 a plain leather band should hold a simple watch4 ,at business1 a simple band or gold chain is appropriate2 the watch itself may be encased with small diamonds4 ,it should be attractive1 but not call attention to itself4 ,for general day wear a gold bracelet made of flexible links is attractive1 worn with the face of the watch open or--for more formal occasions--concealed4 ,this may be made softer by the addition of gems or other stones1 but bright-colored stones should be used only if the dial is hidden4 ,the functional appearance of the watch is further softened in an attractive new style1 which combines the watch with a gold fringe bracelet4 ,the fringe draws the eye artfully away from the timepiece4 ,jewelled ,hours ,during social hours1 however1 one should be more regardless of time4 ,it seems almost an affront1 by wearing a clearly functional wrist watch1 to let your hostess know you are measuring the time you grant her4 ,at theatre1 at evening parties1 a woman should at least seem not to care how the time flits by4 ,indeed1 there is on such occasions no need for her to wear a watch at all4 ,should she1 for reasons of fashion or custom1 or for other personal reasons1 desire to wear a watch1 its functional aspects should be minimized by adornment1 if not wholly concealed in a jewel4 ,for this purpose1 effective eye-catching bracelets can be devised of diamonds or diamonds and pearls4 ,to the beauty of the modern watches1 the ,swiss firm of ,gubelin ,frres has contributed a great deal4 ,this firm1 probably more than any other famous ,swiss craftsmen1 has succeeded in making the watch a masterpiece of design and beauty4 ,gubelin added to the improvement of the mechanical performance of the modern watch high artistic value4 ,there are beautiful flower brooches in the heart of which hides a watch4 ,there are pendants1 for a loose necklace or a brooch1 the bottom of which is the watch face4 ,in greater variety1 the wrist watch can be fashioned into a gem-studded beauty1 as in the #bj1jjj diamond bracelet watch sent by jewelers of ,geneva to ,elizabeth ,,ii of ,england on her wedding day4 ,three parts of the wrist watch may be distinguished for purposes of adornment4 ,first the bracelet as a whole may be an attractive jewel4 ,it may be of plain or of twisted gold2 or it may be a circle of small diamonds or other stones4 ,in still other ways1 the entire band may be ornamented1 with the watch drawn into the unity of the jewel design4 ,secondly1 the main circle of the band may be of plain gold1 with the ornamentation beginning where the bracelet meets the watch4 ,for an inch or so on either side of the watch1 the band may widen in a swirl of domed gold wire1 or some other modern patterns2 or the band may there be set with diamonds1 baguette or marquise4 ,finally1 there is the watch itself1 which may be circled or otherwise encased in diamonds4 ,the design of the bracelet1 however1 may almost wholly conceal the watch4 ,some settings have been made in which a large stone covers the watch face1 and must be lifted to reveal the time4 ,the wrist watch1 for practical reasons1 should not be worn on the handbag arm2 the winding crown may be jarred or broken4 ,for both practical and aesthetic reasons1 it should not be worn with other bracelets4 ,the glass may be jarred off4 ,and while the watch bracelet may look attractive alone1 the presence of other jewels makes its utilitarian function over-prominent4 ,the wrist watch should be serviceable1 but beautiful4 ,in any case1 a watch is at best an interloper1 if not a downright intruder1 in moments of feminine finery4 ,permitting a woman to espy the hour when she should not be so concerned1 the watch--like all spies--should be as much as possible unnoticed and unknown4 ,if it be worn1 it should not be as a watch but as an integral part of a jewel4 ,in ,front of ,your ,mirror ,a wise woman knows the importance of her jewels and does not squander them in overlavish display4 ,the 8principle of parsimony0 applies here as elsewhere3 unless there be an overriding reason for elaboration1 the simplest means are the best4 ,jewels may1 as we have seen1 be beautiful on many parts of the body--but not on all of them at once4 ,each occasion1 each costume1 calls for separate consideration and individual selection of jewels4 ,it is not vanity1 but common sense1 for a woman to spend time before a mirror1 making her own acquaintance1 becoming familiar with her qualities and with the values brought out by various arrangements of her jewels4 ,only by such a process1 renewed frequently through the years 7as jewels and features alter71 can a woman command the full power of her treasure chest as a true ally to her own beauty4 ,daniel ,webster1 looking at the great stone face of the 8,old ,man of the ,mountain10 observed3 8,men hang out their signs indicative of their respective trades3 shoemakers hang out a gigantic shoe2 jewelers1 a monster watch 444 but up in the mountains of ,new ,hampshire1 ,god ,almighty has hung out a sign to show that here ,he makes men40 ,and let them not mar themselves1 ,shakespeare reminds us1 including the fair sex of the human kind4 ,and a woman1 whose sign is beauty1 keeps a 8monster watch0 over her harmony in her jewels4 ,decorum and decoration1 hand in hand1 lead her to the fullest capture of the values with which nature has endowed her and which she has helped to foster1 feed and bring to flower4 ,,part ,,three ,the ,etiquette of ,wearing ,jewels ,,chapter #aa ,the ,etiquette of ,wearing ,jewels ,the emphasis on 8casual living10 in our day1 does not destroy the need for more formal occasions4 ,on the contrary1 indeed1 the woman who has been informal in various types of summer apparel may feel even more thrilled at the opportunity to put on an evening gown1 with the appropriate jewelry4 ,and what jewelry1 she may well ask1 should be worn in more relaxed and casual hours8 ,misery1 they say--or at least ,shakespeare said--acquaints a man with strange bedfellows2 and democracy acquaints a woman with strange costumes4 ,the variety of 8casual clothes0 is limited only by the panorama of color and the ingenuity of the designer4 ,yet1 whatever garments a woman may have chosen to put on1 the probability is that she will wish to add to their harmony the grace notes of a jewel4 ,informal clothes are usually worn for informal hours1 which naturally call for a touch of ornament4 ,festive occasions even more strongly suggest the glamour of jewels4 ,yet in no field are women more at a loss than in the etiquette of jewelry4 ,few need to inquire about the proper combinations of outfits and accessories4 ,it is unnecessary to caution the young girl1 putting on her first evening gown1 that she must not wear her sport shoes4 ,no more need her mother be told not to serve canaps wearing the kitchen apron she put on while preparing them4 ,but when it comes to jewelry1 to selecting the jewels that are appropriate to the occasion1 most women have only the haziest idea4 ,yet if they discover that they are not adorned in keeping with the function1 their day is clouded4 ,en ,route ,in traveling1 by plane or even by train for a weekend in the country1 only tailored jewelry should be worn4 ,large diamond pieces are definitely out of bounds1 even in the subdued hum of a dining car4 ,i repeat that the one exception1 now and forever1 is the combination of the engagement ring and the wedding ring4 ,this is always as appropriate as pleasant4 ,country ,weekend ,if the journey takes a woman to be a guest for the weekend1 it is wise for her to ascertain her hostess's plans4 ,while there may be in store a restful time of relaxation1 when one may make oneself at home and do as one wishes1 it may also be that the hostess has made certain plans4 ,she may have invited friends for a cocktail party1 or a garden party1 to meet the visitor4 ,there may even be a formal dinner party in prospect1 in honor of the guest--who must1 of course1 be prepared with clothes and with jewelry to match the occasion1 and do her hostess justice4 ,the ,garden ,party ,given in the summer1 usually out of the city1 a garden party is a lighthearted affair4 ,short dinner gowns1 colorful cocktail dresses or separates are best enhanced by jewels of light texture4 ,jewelry of twisted gold wire conveys this effect2 or the gold wire used as setting for diamond or pearls4 ,like the flowers in colorful profusion around1 jewels with stones of different colors are in good taste1 providing of course that the colors are in harmony4 ,an all-white costume will not do justice to diamonds2 if a woman looks attractive in white1 she should wear with it colored stones or pearls4 ,sapphires1 however1 may be combined with diamonds1 most pleasantly with a fair complexion2 on a dark beauty there should be rubies and diamonds set in gold4 ,a sense of lightness1 even of airy delicacy1 should be maintained in the adornment4 ,one's richest array of jewels should not be worn4 ,at the ,beach ,if the weekend is at a resort1 or includes a trip to the water1 another sort of jewelry comes to mind4 ,sunbacks1 sports dresses1 slacks1 accord better with tailored gold than with diamonds4 ,massive gold bracelets with charms may be attractive2 but they should be balanced by simpler earclips of the same metal4 ,hoop earrings may be worn1 if not too large4 ,large hoop earrings should dangle only from the ears of an exotic dancer4 ,on the beach precious stones will seem pretentious4 ,besides1 jewels should not be subjected to the multiplex dangers of surf and sand4 ,a bathing suit leaves the body largely to be its own ornament1 but may be charmingly enhanced by such accessories as straw flowers1 plastic ornaments1 ivory seahorses and colored seashells4 ,on the ,golf ,course ,on the golf course1 whatever a woman's score for the eighteen holes1 she wants her jewelry to be at par4 ,diamonds1 of course1 are not even for duffers4 ,a golfer may well be wearing a tailored sports ensemble1 which means that gold jewelry is in good taste4 ,it should preferably be small1 however1 especially in a mixed foursome1 so as to keep the adornment secondary to the game4 ,it should be smart while seemingly functional4 ,there may be a neat gold monogram pin on the blouse1 tailored gold earclips1 even a fairly heavy gold pinkie ring4 ,no bracelet1 to interfere with or jingle during the swing4 ,crossed golf clubs might make a gold brooch4 ,gold pins may be designed to hold the tees4 ,a gold pin usually sheds its glow upon the complexion2 and it adds highlights to the sports costume4 ,a simple gold wrist watch on a leather strap is serviceable1 unobtrusive1 and in quiet good taste4 ,at the ,races ,a visit to the race track becomes a special event when it includes the ,kentucky ,derby1 the ,french ,grand ,prix or ,ascot4 ,hats and gowns are often bought especially for these events2 they should be accompanied by accordant jewelry4 ,here a woman may display her most colorful jewels4 ,rubies and sapphires will be resplendent1 but colored stones of all sorts will brighten the scene4 ,a pearl necklace may be becomingly worn4 ,long earrings1 however1 and diamond necklaces should be reserved for the party that will follow the race4 ,particularly if the wearer's horse has won4 ,if a horse of one's own is entered in the race1 this may be made a part of the design of the jewels4 ,an imposing pin may be set with precious stones in the colors of the stable4 ,or the horse itself may be designed in diamonds2 such a jewel can be worn proudly even away from the turf4 ,i once designed a beautiful set of jewelry for the ,duchess of ,s----1 whose stable colors were yellow1 blue1 and white4 ,whenever one of her horses ran1 she wore this parure1 brooch1 bracelet and earclips of canary diamonds1 white diamonds1 and sapphires from ,kashmir4 ,she told me that invariably her horses won4 8,once10 she said1 8,i forgot to put on the jewelry1 and my horse finished out of the money40 ,whether she has a horse1 or wins her bets1 or not1 every woman that wears beautiful and appropriate jewelry has good luck4 ,business ,luncheons ,there are occasions when a business woman must pay special attention to her jewels4 ,she must seek to convey the impression of dignity and good sense and avoid the frivolous4 ,at a business luncheon1 whether it consists of two persons or a small group1 the business to be transacted is of less immediate significance than the friendly spirit of good will the occasion should engender4 ,a woman--with her sex still not wholly accepted as on a par with men in the business world1 especially in what are referred to as the upper echelons--must feel at ease1 and create a good impression4 ,this is made easier by her knowledge that she is pleasant to look upon1 impeccably dressed and adorned4 ,simple jewelry is best1 with gold plainly visible though not oversize4 ,a simple necklace of pearls is highly appropriate1 with not more than one precious stone upon the hands4 ,the ,charity ,luncheon ,at least once in every year the woman who does not work--along with many who do--may be called upon to attend a charity luncheon4 ,the woman attending such a luncheon may be grouped at table with her close friends1 but she will meet or at least be seen by many others4 ,the occasion1 therefore1 calls for a degree of elegance4 ,the jewels should be well matched2 pearls are to be preferred4 ,if a woman possesses a distinctive jewel1 one that might be considered a conversation piece1 this is the occasion for wearing it4 ,especially is this true if the entire table is not taken by close friends4 ,there should be no such display of diamonds as to make distinctions invidious2 but a well-designed jewel or an attractive parure offers a pleasant opening for conversation1 and mutual interest in conversation makes for friendly ease among strangers at the table4 ,opening ,night ,opening nights at the theatre are always gala occasions4 ,a premiere of a great ballet company is perhaps even more festive4 ,most elegant of all is the first night at the horse show1 or the opening of the season at the opera4 ,for such events1 one appears in one's most elaborate jewels4 ,the more festive the occasion1 unfortunately1 the greater the opportunity for faux pas4 ,cartoons of the 8,keeping ,up ,with the ,joneses0 variety often show a woman who does not distinguish between wearing the best jewelry and wearing the most4 ,an observant eye at the openings will note that such caricatures have their counterparts in real life4 ,every woman of taste--regardless of wealth or social status--is a collector of jewelry4 ,whether the pieces she has gathered be costume jewels or precious ones1 each woman who knows the importance of appearance has her treasure chest4 ,and those who can afford individual workmanship1 and jewels constructed in personal design1 select their jeweler at least as carefully as their decorator or their milliner4 ,matching the ,gown ,among the treasures of her jewel chest1 the woman will select with a discerning eye4 ,if she is to wear a new gown made for the opening1 it is well to try the jewels on1 with the gown1 in advance4 ,if she finds that a necklace with a pendant1 or pendant parts1 graces the dcolletage1 even the most beautiful pendant earclips should not tempt her to wear them4 ,such earclips are probably adjustable so that the pendants can be removed1 and the upper motifs worn to grace the ear lobes4 ,on the other hand1 if a tiara is in the cherished jewel collection1 it may now be taken forth and worn4 ,then a brilliant clip may be set directly on the shoulder1 above the dcolletage4 ,this skinpin admirably breaks the long line from tiara to dcollet gown4 ,if the evening gown is embroidered1 however1 the clip should be left in the box4 ,the various possible combinations should be tried1 and examined carefully in the mirror1 before the outfit is complete4 ,matching the ,man ,an opening night is one of the few occasions1 in our increasingly informal times1 when the gentleman will embrace the opportunity to blossom forth in evening clothes1 with white tie4 ,the opera opening recalls the olden grandeur2 the diamond horseshoe of boxes still deserves the name1 for accompanying the gentleman in his most formal attire comes the lady in her most glamorous jewels4 ,these are unquestionably diamonds4 ,some ,basic ,rules ,if no tiara is worn1 diamonds may be used as ornaments in the hair1 as earclips1 as necklaces1 as bracelets4 ,while the diamond is the basic gem in the jewelry1 other precious stones may accompany it1 such as rubies1 emeralds and sapphires4 ,they may be set around a large central diamond2 or they may be the center stones1 with smaller diamonds of different shapes set around--so that the brilliance of the one and the deep color of the other will interact in a fireplay of beauty4 ,of course1 the stones must be of a color that will harmonize with the gown--in all likelihood1 the gown was ordered to harmonize with the chosen gems4 ,it must be repeated that elaborate jewelry does not mean a quantity of jewels4 ,one brooch1 which may be a large rose1 will suffice2 she may have other beautiful bracelets1 but the discriminating woman will wear just one1 which has been carefully made or chosen for the shape and size of her arm1 to stay precisely where its beauty will most enhance her lines4 ,the diamond bracelet should not be worn over gloves1 unless these are not removed for the entire evening4 ,a two-piece evening glove is available1 the hand of which may be doffed1 so that the remainder becomes a long sleeve over which the bracelet is worn4 ,women whose arms taper sharply to the wrist may find that such a glove helps to maintain the bracelet at the proper place on the arm4 ,a diamond clip should not be worn on a fur coat1 jacket1 or stole4 ,for then either it is put aside1 hanging over the back of the chair at a restaurant or in a closet at a private home1 or when the coat is taken off the clip must be removed and reattached to the gown4 ,one seems ostentatious disregard2 the other1 ostentatious concern4 ,a proper decision as to what to wear and what to leave at home helps make the occasion of an opening a source of memorable satisfaction4 ,the ,dinner ,party ,such a gathering usually brings together a significant part of one's personal world4 ,well chosen jewelry will confirm a woman's standing in that community1 and it will be a source of gratification to her husband and to her hosts if she is tastefully adorned4 ,wearing one's best jewelry and finest gown is a gracious way of paying tribute to one's hostess1 as well as doing one's duty as a guest1 to help make the party a success4 ,at the dinner party a parure1 a matching ensemble1 is quite attractive4 ,at the opera the more elaborate jewels can be enjoyed from farther away2 by most1 any one person's jewels are seen but for a glance or at a distance4 ,but here1 there is opportunity to observe the matching of stones or of the balanced jewels in a parure4 ,while one jewel may contain stones of various colors1 there should not be such variety from jewel to jewel2 to be avoided1 for example1 are such combinations as a sapphire bracelet with a ruby brooch or an emerald necklace with a turquoise bracelet4 ,and the colors of the jewels1 as always1 must harmonize with one's gown and one's complexion4 ,the ,watch ,no woman should wear a leather strap for a wrist watch with an evening gown4 ,it would completely break the spell of elegance4 ,if no watch with matched strap of bejewelled metal is in the treasure chest1 the watch should be kept at home or--for sheer utility--in the purse4 ,the watch for evening wear has its functional aspects concealed4 ,its face is almost hidden in precious stones1 or may be so encased that the jewel must be opened4 ,it is worn less as a timepiece than as a bracelet1 or perhaps a brooch4 ,the ,cigarette ,case ,one intrusion on the elegance of a formal dinner is the too frequent practice by men of offering a lady in evening gown a cigarette from a crumpled paper package4 ,one might as well offer candy from a subway stand in its paper container4 ,the hostess has not proffered her food from the grocery bag4 ,it is expected that the food will be attractively served2 when a dish is a delight to the eye1 it is more delectable upon the palate4 ,similarly a cigarette should be taken from a case that has aesthetic qualities4 ,the ,hostess ,the hostess at a formal dinner has of course greater responsibility than her guests4 ,she should make quite clear the degree of formality intended1 to prevent the bother and the embarrassment of calls to learn what sort of clothes one should wear4 ,beyond that1 the hostess should be aware1 in at least a general way1 of what jewelry her guests can afford and are likely to wear1 and adorn herself within that range4 ,above all1 she must be sure not to wear more elaborate jewelry than her most important guest4 ,the considerate hostess will be in good taste1 inconspicuous1 content to have her guests admired4 ,the successful party is that at which the hostess is most unobtrusive1 until everyone realizes what a good time she has made it possible for them to have4 ,the one exception to this is an occasion at which the party is really given by the host1 to mark an event important in the hostess's life1 such as a birthday or an anniversary or other time when her husband may wish to present her with a jeweled token4 ,then1 for the special part of the evening1 she may properly be the focus of attention1 the sparkling cynosure of friendly eyes4 ,but after 8,for she's a jolly good fellow60 has been duly sung1 the hostess should gracefully and unobtrusively become once more the catalyst of the evening1 the aid in producing the desired reaction among the various elements4 ,in recognition of her husband's love and thoughtfulness1 she should of course have him put upon her the newly given jewel4 ,at the ,white ,house ,there are various occasions on which one may be privileged to be invited to the ,white ,house4 ,for all of them1 a woman must remember1 in selecting her dress and jewels1 that she is a living symbol of her own or her husband's significance4 ,again1 her jewels must be unostentatious1 but befitting dignity and position4 ,for a ,white ,house luncheon1 the neckline will not be low1 hence no elaborate necklace will be worn4 ,gold should be seen on the jewels1 accented with a few diamonds4 ,pearls with diamonds are also effectively in place4 ,always there is distinction1 as ,i have said1 in one earclip with a black pearl1 one earclip with a white1 while a black and a white pearl are set together in a finger ring4 ,for a ,white ,house cocktail party1 jewelry with diamonds and multicolored stones may be worn4 ,still more appropriate1 with the simple cocktail dress1 is a parure4 ,an especially effective set is a pearl necklace with a diamond clasp on each side1 and matching earclips1 bracelet1 and ring4 ,the ,president's ,dinner ,for a formal dinner at the ,white ,house1 marked by the presence of the ,president1 diamond jewelry is the only kind to wear4 ,the guest's prominence and influence may be emphasized to the fullest degree in the elaborateness of the jewelry chosen4 ,and this is one of the rare occasions when a woman need not be worried lest she outshine the boss's wife4 ,the ,president1 after all1 is the servant of the people4 ,the glamour and the resplendent brilliance of such a dinner must come mainly from the guests4 ,the ,president and the ,first ,lady will affect a more modest attitude1 so as to give the guests full opportunity for display4 ,she is an unusual woman who will not take that opportunity6 ,the most elaborate of all ,white ,house occasions is the ,inauguration ,dinner4 ,for this1 and for various international balls1 to which the heads of the nations' embassies are invited1 there is an established set of rules of protocol4 ,one must have these in mind1 as well as one's own position1 before determining what sort of jewels to wear4 ,the ,captain's ,dinner ,on an ocean voyage1 one encounters a ruler as absolute as any throned monarch4 ,the captain is usually most genial1 but he is the man upon whose shoulders rests total responsibility for the vessel1 the passengers1 and the crew4 ,he is an accessible ruler1 however1 and invites many in his shipbound world to dine with him4 ,cocktails in the ,captain's private suite may precede the dinner4 ,there will be no time for a change of clothes between1 so one must go to the cocktail party prepared for dinner4 ,and it will be a feast for the eyes as well1 with many parts of the world represented4 ,each woman will be adorned in accordance with the customs of her land4 ,and each must keep in mind that she is1 in some measure1 an ambassador4 ,most persons abroad have no way of judging ,america save through prejudiced newspaper stories and flashy ,hollywood films4 ,among the films ,hollywood sends abroad are the grim gangster melodramas and teenage delinquency films and the gaudy sentimental dream-stories with happy1 wealthy endings4 ,our paintings and our literature give a truer picture of real ,americans and for the direct1 most meaningful impressions on the largest number of people1 there are only our soldiers and our tourists4 ,in spite of spread stories of military misbehavior 7good news is no news7 and cartoons of uncouth tourists1 ,americans abroad are in the main as good-natured and as decent as they are at home4 ,the ,captain's dinner is a good place to make the pleasing first impression4 ,women make a spectacle of splendor there4 ,the ,maharanees are attired in delicate draped saris1 six yards or more long1 with ,indian jewels exquisitely and finely set in bright yellow gold4 ,the ,chinese ladies wear elaborately embroidered mandarin robes1 tight-fitting and slit at the sides1 with smooth green jade jewelry worn more smooth by loving generations4 ,the ,english ladies will wear many sapphires1 that jewel deservedly popular with them1 for it is most becoming to light hair and fair complexions4 ,the ,american woman must equally represent the charm and beauty of her land4 ,a wide range of jewels is appropriate here1 within the limits of moderation and good taste4 ,embassy ,parties ,in the capitals of the world1 next to the formal functions of the government itself1 come the parties at the embassies4 ,just as the embassies in ,washington and the ,ambassadors at the ,united ,nations in ,new ,york hold festive parties on their national holidays1 so in other lands important ,american holidays are celebrated by the ,united ,states ,embassy4 ,perhaps the most famous of these is the annual party for that special ,american holiday1 ,thanksgiving4 ,an embassy party1 however1 is festive rather than official4 ,the key is color4 ,diamonds will naturally flash and sparkle1 elegance will prevail2 but amid the brilliants there is opportunity for the display of other precious stones4 ,as always1 the central factor from which other considerations radiate is the wearer's complexion4 ,this has already determined the choice of emerald1 ruby1 or sapphire as the gem around which to build a parure4 ,the choice of the parure leads to the color of the evening gown1 which1 even if mainly white1 may well be touched with the chosen color4 ,a matched necklace of the chosen precious stone interspersed with diamonds is admirable4 ,pearls are in place1 but carefully chosen1 so that their tint has part in the total harmony4 ,an ,american woman may1 of course always within the bounds of good taste1 wear somewhat more elaborate jewelry if the party is at a foreign embassy4 ,if it is at the ,united ,states ,embassy1 she will do better1 as an ,american citizen1 to wear a more modest set of jewels1 graciously giving consideration to the guests from other lands4 ,in a sense1 every ,american woman at a ,united ,states ,embassy party is hostess4 ,she has in part probably been invited for this reason2 keeping it in mind will help her select the right jewels4 ,meeting ,royalty ,there has been a spread of royal houses across the continents1 in the tumultuous years marked by two ,world ,wars4 ,it may well be that1 in homes in the ,united ,states or abroad1 a woman will be invited to a gathering at which a member of the nobility or of a royal family will be present4 ,whether the person is in actual power or dethroned by the vicissitudes of revolution1 there is no need to wear more elaborate jewels than the occasion in itself calls for4 ,a woman should always be herself1 at her best2 there is no need to seek better than that best for any nobleman4 ,the effort would be undemocratic2 the result would be overdone4 ,good taste1 and the requirements of the particular party1 formal or informal1 should reign4 ,good taste does suggest one specific warning3 under the circumstances1 in deference to the noble guest1 a woman should refrain from wearing a tiara1 or any head jewel resembling a coronet4 ,coronation ,a coronation1 or a royal wedding--which usually includes the coronation of the one marrying into the reigning house--is a special function1 growing less frequent in our strangely mixed times4 ,the accession of ,grace ,kelly1 however1 to become ,princess of ,monaco1 shows that these occasions may still spread their glamour wide4 ,at such events1 the type of diadem or coronet each person may wear is strictly defined in regulations that for centuries have been built up around the aristocracy in various lands4 ,manuals describe the ceremonial and the regalia in detail4 ,an untitled woman privileged to be present will wear nothing but diamonds and precious and semiprecious stones2 imitation jewelry is out of place4 ,if she has a large diamond necklace1 with pendants1 there will be diamond earclips2 if the necklace is a choker1 the earclip may have pear-shaped diamond pendant or emerald or pearl drops4 ,a beautiful diamond bracelet and ring will complete the regal costume4 ,a ,queen's ,crown ,the monarch's crown1 and often his consort's or his queen's1 has of course been handed down from the heads of those that ruled before4 ,occasionally there is a deviation from the tradition1 as at the bridal coronation of ,queen ,geraldine of ,albania4 ,geraldine was a ,roman ,catholic countess betrothed to a ,mohammedan king4 ,a royal crown usually bears a symbol of the monarch's faith incorporated into its design2 there are religious motifs in the ornamentation4 ,in this case1 naturally1 such motifs and symbolism were not to be involved4 ,the honor of designing ,queen ,geraldine's crown was entrusted to me4 ,my problem was to establish a royal but not a religious motif4 ,i found it in the crest of the kings of ,albania4 ,this bears the stylized head of a rare mountain ram1 which roams the snowy peaks of the beautiful ,albanian mountains4 ,a sculptured head of the ram ,i had encrusted with diamonds and set in the centre of the tiara2 this tapered down to a border of white roses made of diamonds1 the leaves fashioned of diamond baguettes--a decorative and distinctive diamond crown for the decorative and distinguished ,queen ,geraldine4 ,when ,every ,woman is ,queen ,there is one day on which every woman is queen3 her bridal day--the day when all others yield place and do her deference4 ,and she must remember that a queen comports herself with dignity1 yet is always gracious4 ,while to the guests a wedding is mainly a social gathering1 it is also a religious occasion1 and to the bridal pair a sacred service4 ,the bride therefore1 especially at the formal evening wedding1 will wear only jewelry in white1 diamonds or pearls4 ,as the symbolism of the marriage will be spread with the long veil and bound into the wedding ring1 jewels should be modest and few4 ,earclips should be small1 and carefully chosen1 of diamonds in simple design4 ,if a bracelet is worn1 it should be on the right arm4 ,the left arm and hand should be bare of ornament1 the engagement ring being transferred1 before the service1 to stay on the right hand until the groom has slipped the wedding band on his bride's finger4 ,no wrist watch should be worn2 on this night the groom is guardian of the hours4 ,a small pin in appropriate design1 with diamonds and pearls1 may gleam on the bosom4 ,a four-leaf clover pattern1 flowerets1 lilies of the valley1 a small circle of diamonds symbolizing endless love1 two hearts of diamonds3 any of these may be wrought1 in diamonds or pearls or various combinations of the two1 for an added touch of appropriate beauty4 ,the corsage or flower arrangement of the bride should be planned with thought of the jewels she will be wearing4 ,a morning wedding is less formal than the evening wedding1 and one in the afternoon more informal still4 ,with the informal dress for a morning marriage1 a gold clip and gold jewelry are in place4 ,in the afternoon1 or in the morning if it is planned to depart at once on the honeymoon1 a hat or a cap-like covering may be worn4 ,precious stones other than diamonds are suitable with such a garb1 but should preferably be of one color1 selected to blend with the wedding ensemble4 ,with a light suit or long-sleeve dress1 no bracelet is desired4 ,an evening marriage is more formal1 more elaborate1 but never more festive2 at any practical hour there is joy at a wedding1 and there should be jeweled beauty for the bride4 ,the ,bridesmaids ,the bridesmaids should recognize that they are present to provide a beautiful frame for a beautiful picture4 ,when the bouquet and the garter have been tossed and the toasted couple has gone1 the bridesmaids may have moments of their own2 but at the wedding they are charming accessories4 ,as such1 they should blend into the pattern set by the bride4 ,the bride-to-be1 in fact1 has selected the color scheme that the bridesmaids will carefully follow4 ,if they do not all have gowns of the same design1 these should be planned carefully so that no one outshines the others1 or draws attention from the bride4 ,this balance should be maintained also1 in the bridesmaids' choice of jewels4 ,it may be that a simple pin or pair of earclips will be a gift to each bridesmaid2 such a jewel should of course be worn4 ,if any necklace is worn1 it should be small4 ,pearl or gold earclips1 without pendants1 should be chosen to blend with the person and the costume1 not to stand out4 ,a small gold clip1 with perhaps one precious stone or a small pattern1 will not be too conspicuous4 ,there may be one gold bracelet1 not wide4 ,such jewels will preserve the individual grace of the bridesmaid while softening her into the harmony of the whole1 as a background of youth and loveliness for the bride4 ,the ,mother of the ,bride ,as every mother knows1 her proudest moment is not that of her own wedding1 but that when she watches her daughter being wed4 ,this is the altar of her dreams4 ,the mother of the bride symbolizes the continuance of tradition1 the unity of the family1 the onward flow of the race4 ,she will dominate the hour before the ceremony1 and she will continue to receive congratulations and good wishes as she presides over the festivity long after the bride and groom have slipped away4 ,the mother of the bride may therefore wear more elaborate and more colorful jewelry than the bride herself4 ,the bride is adorned for the occasion1 her mother is adorned for the guests4 ,the mother may wear1 then1 important and imposing items3 earclips1 necklace1 ring 7not too many rings671 bracelet1 and brooch4 ,equally she may choose among her jewels those that together show to best advantage1 diamonds combined with rubies1 sapphires1 or what she will4 ,good taste will be her criterion2 her desire1 to make her daughter as proud as she is happy4 ,there may perhaps also be the suggestion in her costume that1 mother though she is1 she still possesses freshness1 vitality1 and youth4 ,even at the most formal wedding1 however1 the mother should not wear a tiara unless it is a treasured heirloom and thus a matter of family tradition4 ,what has been said of the mother of the bride holds as well--with a touch more of simplicity--for the mother of the groom4 ,the ,wedding ,guests ,a late afternoon wedding in a church may be followed by a dinner in a hotel or hall or home1 nearby2 or the formal ceremony at night might be performed in the special room of the hotel at which the dinner is to take place4 ,usually the movement is directly from the ceremony to the celebration4 ,in ,europe1 when days were bright and frontiers uncurtained1 there was frequently time allowed after the ceremony for dresses to be changed before the party4 ,more decorative or elaborate gowns were put on1 not infrequently picturesque local or national costumes--and livelier jewels4 ,sometimes this practice is allowed in the ,united ,states1 especially when an afternoon wedding in ,june is held outdoors1 on the lawn or in the garden4 ,then the change should be into brighter colors4 ,each bridesmaid can again blossom in her own individuality4 ,gold gleams at the ears1 around the neck4 ,heirlooms and other special pieces may add to one's adornment4 ,there is open field1 now1 in anticipation of the next wedding4 ,there is no need to fear outshining the bride2 she is already far away1 in body and mind1 with the man to whom she is giving her richest jewel4 ,the ,newborn ,a newborn child should not be presented with an important piece of jewelry1 unless this has been specifically left for that occasion by the will of a wealthy grandfather or maiden great-aunt4 ,the babe will smile just as pleasantly at the more appropriate charm adorned with its birthstone1 or a lucky locket1 or an amulet to protect it against evil4 ,the month in which1 the day on which1 and the star under which a child is born1 all have their special stones4 ,these may be incorporated separately1 according as the donor evaluates their power--or all together1 if the donor wishes to take no chances--in a little jewel4 ,more specifically religious symbols1 or tokens of a saint or a guardian angel1 are of course appropriate4 ,a peaceful animal1 such as a lamb1 in enamel outlined in gold1 or itself golden1 makes a fitting gift for the newborn child4 ,thus the rules of jewelry etiquette begin at the beginning of life4 ,the ,anniversary ,naturally1 as the anniversaries roll around1 adding on new year after year1 a woman wants to continue looking and feeling young4 ,for the effect of youth1 flower motifs in the jewelry ensemble are the most flattering4 ,when these are made out of diamonds and colored stones1 a little imagination can combine them beautifully in a flower cluster or corsage4 ,thus another piece of flower jewelry is always welcome2 it may not only be worn1 but most appropriately be given1 at an anniversary4 ,table of ,anniversary ,gifts ,for those who wish to observe wedding anniversaries with an appropriate gift1 they are here listed4 ,anniversary of ,wedding ,gift ,third ,crystal ,fifth ,silver ,tenth ,diamond ,eleventh ,gold or silver jewelry ,twelfth ,pearls or colored gems ,fourteenth ,gold ,twentieth ,platinum ,twenty-fifth ,silver ,jubilee ,thirtieth ,diamond ,thirty-fifth ,jade ,fortieth ,ruby ,forty-fifth ,sapphire ,fiftieth ,golden ,jubilee ,fifty-fifth ,emerald ,sixtieth ,diamond ,jubilee ,for those who prefer to observe the older1 less commercialized--at least1 unmodernized--associations1 here is the traditional list3 ,fifth ,wooden ,tenth ,tin ,fifteenth ,crystal ,twentieth ,china ,twenty-fifth ,silver ,fiftieth ,golden ,sixtieth ,diamond ,while these associations may help suggest a gift1 they should not be felt as in any way binding4 ,the desire of the woman1 the taste of the man1 the discovery of a superb jewel in a shop1 or a talk with a designer1 may any of them shape the decision and the gift4 ,a flower design1 as ,i have said1 is always attractive4 ,and if one comes upon a fine one1 why wait for an anniversary8 ,alice looked up in ,wonderland to remark that she preferred unbirthday presents to birthday presents1 because there could be so many more of them4 ,an unexpected gift can be a bright surprise1 and make any day a rich occasion4 ,the ,more ,solemn ,time ,a wedding and a christening form occasions when happiness and piety are intertwined4 ,on other religious occasions1 the gaiety gives way to solemnity1 or is overcome by sadness4 ,at these graver times1 there is a concordant change in the selection of jewels4 ,audience with the ,pope ,a telephone call and a friendly word may admit one to a group audience with the ,pope4 ,this may be a happy1 but it is also an awesome occasion1 for the ,pope is the avowed divinely appointed supreme authority of the longest-lasting institution in human history1 the ,roman ,catholic ,church4 ,the procedure surrounding such an audience is set down and long established4 ,a woman who enters the audience chamber does not come to be noticed1 much less admired2 she is there to participate in a service4 ,the solemnity and significance of the occasion make all adornment out of place1 with the exception of very simple jewelry of black jet4 ,in ,mourning ,at funerals and for visits of condolence1 dark clothing should be accompanied by very few if any jewels4 ,it is a gesture of sympathy to the bereaved to come to them unadorned4 ,in many countries it is the custom for the bereaved to put away all their bright gems and colored jewelry1 for the entire period of mourning4 ,special jewelry is made for the mourning months4 ,this may include a memorial ring in gold1 with some token of the beloved dead4 ,otherwise1 the jewelry for this period will be limited to pieces made of black enamel and jet4 ,during the period of semi-mourning1 which extends for the second six months1 the more unobtrusive colors may be chosen from the jewel chest1 and begin to reappear4 ,but a full year will pass1 save for most exceptional circumstances1 before the bright constellation of jewels again takes the ascendant4 ,other ,observations ,a few more general observations may be made1 in the field of the etiquette of jewelry4 ,the time of day has a share in the determination of the jewelry4 ,just as a gourmet never smokes before the coffee1 so a woman of taste never wears diamonds before lunch4 ,in the evening1 conversely1 save on the most informal occasions such as a surprise party or an outing1 she will not wear a tailored piece of leather1 silver1 or wood4 ,color ,combinations ,gems of various colors may be combined on a single piece1 but it is inharmonious to wear two jewels of differently colored stones4 ,thus a tiara of rubies will clash with a necklace of emeralds2 a sapphire bracelet will war against a pair of ruby earclips4 ,the colors may not be at odds1 but the jewels instead of blending will vie with one another2 the effect will be of discord instead of harmony4 ,sets of matching jewels enhance one another1 and ameliorate the wearer's measure of beauty4 ,restraint ,jewels in too many places create a confused rather than a blending effect4 ,if earclips1 necklace and a dress clip are worn1 a jeweled comb or hair-clasp will add an excessive touch1 unless the jeweled part is visible only from the back4 ,an exception to this is the tiara1 which adds regal height and dignity1 but of course a tiara is worn only with a dcollet gown on a most formal occasion4 ,if a tiara is worn1 the other jewels should match it in period design1 antique1 classical1 romantic1 or modernistic4 ,eyeglasses ,i have already mentioned eyeglasses4 ,the simpler these are1 the better4 ,certainly they should not gleam with gold nor glitter with rhinestones when one is wearing earclips4 ,the meretricious sparkle of the eyeglass rims draws attention from the earclips--which is the reverse of the proper procedure1 for well designed clips can lure attention away from the glasses4 ,the ,lorgnette ,a woman who wears eyeglasses will be pleasantly surprised if1 for more formal occasions1 she tries the effects of the lorgnon or lorgnette4 ,whereas eyeglasses1 fixed upon the face1 tend to fight with the features or with other accessories1 the lifted lorgnette becomes not only an adornment but a weapon4 ,as much as the once universal fan1 it can play a part in the charms of coquetry1 and add to the eloquence of the various gestures of gay conversation or romance4 ,in itself1 the lorgnette can be a beautiful jewel1 in gold or platinum and precious stones4 ,in the hands of a graceful woman1 it can considerably embellish her beauty1 and is an adjunct to an evening's enjoyment that should be more widely employed4 ,the ,corsage ,there are many festive occasions on which a corsage is a fit and flattering decoration4 ,it will1 however1 weaken the effect of a pin or a clip nearby4 ,variations in position1 of either the clip or the corsage1 may preserve the full values of each4 ,a corsage need not always adorn a dress at the shoulder4 ,it may be fastened at the waist1 or on the evening bag1 or even1 if properly sized1 on the back of the wrist4 ,if it does seem especially becoming at the shoulder1 or if the woman wishes to thank the donor by wearing it thus prominently1 then the clip may be the ornament that is transferred4 ,it may find a suitable place on the bag1 the belt1 the veil1 the hair4 ,a band of velvet around the wrist1 of the same color as the dress1 may have the clip caught into its bowknot4 ,if the clip is of diamonds1 it may be attached to a pearl necklace or bracelet4 ,in any of these ways1 and more1 the clip and the corsage may be made not to clash but to combine for beauty4 ,embroidery ,on an embroidered blouse it is best not to wear jewelry4 ,certainly no brooch4 ,perhaps a skinpin1 judiciously placed above the blouse1 can add to the harmony4 ,this1 and earclips1 ring1 or bracelet must be carefully chosen1 so that their colors and the embroidery do not clash4 ,plain gold is best1 especially for the bracelet4 ,more ,about ,bracelets ,flexible link bracelets and stiff charm or bangle bracelets should not be worn together4 ,they battle for predominance4 ,many women prize bracelets1 and have a large collection of different sorts4 ,they can be found in innumerable designs1 of beautiful antique and challenging modern1 also in many materials and various colors of metals1 and set with a wide range of color in stones4 ,it is a delight to form and to build such a collection4 ,but in deciding which bracelet to use1 discrimination must be summoned4 ,one or two that harmonize with each other and the dress1 and fit the degree of formality of the occasion1 should be chosen and will catch the admiring eye4 ,among current favorites is the charm bracelet4 ,this can be most attractive1 although only a teenage subdebutante will breeze into a room with a tinkling of several bracelets laden with charms4 ,one such bracelet can have pleasantly and decoratively dangling mementos of special events and occasions4 ,i know a well-traveled young woman who adds a golden token of each new country and important city she visits3 among her dangles of wrought gold and stones are a ,mexican peon1 a ,balinese dancer1 a gondola1 the ,eiffel ,tower1 the volcano ,fujiyama1 and the ,leaning ,tower of ,pisa4 ,there is also a heart1 to indicate another region of her travels4 ,queen ,elizabeth ,i had so many dangles that she used not a bracelet but a girdle1 which held keys1 a pair of scissors1 and even the fork--a new luxury in her days6--she used at the table4 ,beside these around the royal waist1 there hung 8a round clock fullie garnished with dyamondes10 and a prayer book two and a half inches long1 bound in gold and set with a cameo4 ,a pendant birthstone1 the three monkeys that see1 hear1 and speak no evil1 and various lucky charms are also fit for dangles4 ,such items1 gathered through fortunate finds1 add a personal and distinctive touch1 and convert an otherwise common ornament into an interesting jewel4 ,more ,about ,rings ,never should rings be worn on different fingers of the same hand4 ,in other words1 counting the engagement and marriage rings as one1 one should wear one ring on one hand at one time4 ,have many rings1 if you wish1 but wear them in succession4 ,if the left hand is bound by the wedding pair1 the middle finger of the right hand might be the place for a fine touch of color1 in a plain band1 or one ringed with small diamonds1 with a large central colored stone4 ,the only ones by general consent allowed to wear many rings on many fingers are the dowagers who can 7and do7 recall their youth in ,queen ,victoria's days4 ,gold ,jewels ,gold jewelry1 without colored stones1 may be termed neutral2 that is1 any such piece will harmonize with other jewels4 ,a plain gold bracelet or watch1 for example1 may be worn with a gold and pearl ensemble4 ,similarly1 a plain gold piece can be worn with a multicolored jewel--if the gold in the two pieces is of the same shade4 ,gold jewels1 however1 should not be worn with other metals1 such as diamonds set in platinum4 ,silver1 gold1 platinum1 or palladium3 the same metal should characterize the ensemble4 ,in the ,spotlight ,there will be occasions1 in many women's lives1 when they will officially be the center of attention4 ,the various observations just made apply all the more strongly then4 ,one may be summoned for an appearance on television1 or as the speaker at a gathering or meeting4 ,or one may1 indeed1 be in a profession that calls for frequent public performance1 as on the concert stage4 ,i do not speak of acting1 or of singing in opera1 for in such situations the part naturally determines the costume4 ,a violinist1 obviously1 should wear no earclips or ring or shoulder piece4 ,a hair jewel is appropriate1 and perhaps a touch of jewelry at the waist4 ,a pianist likewise should wear no adornment on hand or arm--a bracelet1 moving and gleaming as the fingers flit along the keys1 would be most distracting4 ,in this case a diamond earclip would be appropriate1 or perhaps a jeweled pin in the hair on the side toward the audience4 ,the essential1 for such performers1 is to avoid distracting jewels4 ,for a speaker at a meeting1 or on television with the world watching1 the general principle of suiting the adornment to the personality holds4 ,neither a singer nor a speaker1 of course1 should use pendants1 which by movement with the motion of the head would attract undue attention4 ,with a low-cut gown1 the necklace should not be a choker 7which might seem to move as one speaks7 but a loose band1 following the line of the dress4 ,it might be safer1 indeed1 to avoid the necklace4 ,instead1 with a ,v-neck dress1 one large clip or pin will sufficiently hold the eye4 ,with a square-neck dress1 a pair of smaller clips1 one at each corner1 will be unobtrusively attractive4 99 99 99 99 99 ,the cornerstone in the etiquette of jewels1 whether one is the center of all eyes or one of a party1 remains erect on three values3 good taste1 harmony1 and beauty4 ,,chapter #ab ,jewels as ,gifts ,it is indeed a gift1 not shared by all1 to be able to select a truly appropriate present1 one that fits the occasion1 the recipient and the donor4 ,without this threefold accord1 something will seem lacking in even the most expensive bestowal4 ,give ,yourself ,americans have long recognized the complex ties of sentiment that should come together in the neat bowknot of a gift4 ,emerson devoted an essay to the subject1 making the point that the best gift is one that includes a part of oneself4 ,lowell1 in his great poem ,the ,vision of ,sir ,launfal1 compresses the same idea into a trenchant line3 8,the gift without the giver is bare40 ,we are not all--like grandmother1 each of whose six grandchildren received a linen table set embroidered by her own hands--able to create our presents2 but we can all choose thoughtfully1 so that to the gift clings some savor of our personality4 ,nothing is more disappointing--even to those who expected nothing--than to receive a box of candy evidently picked up at the corner store1 or a bottle of quick-bought wine or whisky4 ,if the wine is of a rare vintage1 the gift shows taste in the donor and respect for the recipient2 but other considerations should be weighed too4 ,gifts of ,lasting ,value ,obviously1 a gift quickly consumed and soon forgotten is less prized than one that provides a lengthy or a permanent memento of the occasion4 ,a good wrist watch1 appropriately engraved1 may cost no more than a case of whisky2 instead of the bottle of perfume there might be a memorable charm4 ,such gifts are evidence of thoughtfulness and warm affection2 they are not transitory2 they abide4 ,most occasions for bestowing presents are heart-entangled2 a gift is a sign of a sentimental attachment4 ,some such occasions are touched upon in other parts of this book2 here the emphasis is more practical1 indicating the lines along which proper choice should be made4 ,but whatever sort of gift is suggested for any particular occasion1 it is still the donor's concern to show that this is not just a routine purchase1 but one that has been made with affectionate care4 ,gifts to the ,baby ,as ,i have already pointed out1 the etiquette of jewelry begins with the newborn babe4 ,the little charms may be heart-shaped1 or a tiny hand of coral4 ,there may be a small string of turquoises as a bracelet1 long believed sure to keep the infant from falling4 ,one of the gifts a child will come to prize more and more as the years go by is a little necklace of pearls--to which at each birthday another choice pearl or two are added1 until the budding young woman has a beautiful string4 ,to the ,mother ,too ,among ,european aristocratic families it is the pleasant practice to present a gift to the mother1 as well as to the newborn child4 ,the husband can express his joy no more satisfactorily than by a precious jewel4 ,this might be of pearls or diamonds1 to be added to on subsequent birthdays4 ,in royal houses1 especially on the birth of the first male1 elaborate gifts were showered on the mother not only by the family1 but by the people1 the state1 and other royal houses4 ,outstandingly luxurious are some of the jewels created by ,faberg for the lavish ,czars of ,russia to present at the time of a noble birth4 ,as the ,child ,grows ,birthdays for the growing girl or boy are likely1 in the earlier years1 to include many books and toys2 but1 for the girl1 earclips1 lockets1 charms1 and brooches may be given1 including if possible the appropriate birthstone4 ,graduation from high school may be fitly marked by a gold pin or a watch2 often the school has its seal available on a gold ring or pin4 ,and in the fall1 if the young lady goes on to college1 a small pin or clip with her initials in gold is an appropriate and traditional gift4 ,st4 ,valentine's ,day ,perhaps the casual or humorous ,valentine is to be replaced by more serious sentiments1 and more memorable gifts4 ,dress clips1 earclips1 money clips1 and tie clips are all appropriate in the shape of a heart4 ,a heart-shaped locket may open1 to set a picture inside4 ,gems are cut heart-shape3 the topaz1 the amethyst1 the diamond4 ,these gems may be set in a ring1 or the ring itself may bear a heart of precious metal4 ,but remember the warning in the chapter on rings3 the ring is a jewel of binding symbol1 and should be given or exchanged only when the tie is truly close4 ,college ,days ,certain occasions in college dictate not only their own jewels but the manner of their presentation4 ,a sorority or fraternity pin may be designed with different varieties or qualities of gem1 but in all likelihood there will be one type1 and one formal occasion on which it is conferred upon the happy initiate4 ,similarly1 the ,phi ,beta ,kappa key and the insignia of other honorary societies are prescribed by tradition and won by merit4 ,when a young man and a young woman exchange such pins1 however1 time is approaching for the lasting ties4 ,gift-giving is one of the pleasures of courtship4 ,on many a night a corsage or a box of bonbons is quite in place2 but more significant1 and a richer testimony to one's love1 are the twin friendship rings1 or the farther-progressed lovers' knots which can be found in earclips1 rings1 and brooches4 ,the ,wedding ,day ,the engagement ring marks the promise1 the wedding ring marks the fulfilment4 ,but the wedding ring is a symbol upon which the ages have set their approving stamp2 it is not a gift4 ,some special token of the groom's appreciation and love should warm the heart of the bride4 ,tradition suggests a necklace1 which in its way is also a binding symbol4 ,what it is made of depends wholly on the groom4 ,it may be a plain gold band1 or a golden series of little leaves1 or of orange blossoms4 ,it may be of pearls with a diamond clasp2 it may be all of diamonds4 ,whatever the material of the necklace1 it should be of a fashion appropriate for a maid2 nothing heavy1 nothing with an air of sophistication2 something of almost fragile grace1 suggesting youth and simple feminine charm4 ,for the ,bridesmaids ,the matron of honor and the bridesmaids should receive their gifts from the bride at a luncheon or other occasion1 such as the rehearsal1 as close as possible to the ceremony4 ,she will by that time know what they are wearing and fit her gifts to their gowns4 ,among appropriate gifts are gold charm bracelets1 disks1 cigarette boxes1 powder compacts1 lipstick holders1 and the like4 ,these should be engraved with the date of the wedding1 the name of the happy couple1 and a memorable phrase4 ,if the jewels are such as have no proper space for engraving1 the box that contains the jewel should be embossed with the initials or name of the couple1 and the appropriate words4 ,for the ,ushers ,the groom in similar fashion1 and with the same engraving1 makes his gifts to the best man and the ushers4 ,in gold1 he may choose tie pins and clips1 cuff links1 money clips1 key chains1 toothpicks4 ,pencils and fountain pens are appropriate1 or silver letter-openers1 with the box or the article bearing the signs of the occasion4 ,other ,gifts to the ,bride ,in addition to any more substantial contribution to the hopes and happiness of the newlyweds1 the parents of the groom should give their daughter-in-law-elect a gift that she will wear on her wedding day4 ,this will usually take the form of a brooch or clip4 ,a flower design is always appropriate2 more playfully accordant is a clip of a four-leaf clover or of bells1 in diamonds4 ,perhaps the most touching among the wedding gifts is that which comes to the bride from the grandmother4 ,in many cases1 it will be a jewel that grandmother wore on her own wedding day2 it is thus not only a precious but a tender link that helps bind the family through the generations4 ,parents' ,days ,when time comes around for ,mother's ,day1 then ,father's ,day1 we realize that all through the year our parents' love reaches out to us and deserves our grateful thoughts4 ,every day is a day to honor one's parents4 ,they have shown us that love is the one gift one need not earn4 8,home10 says the poet1 8is the place where1 when you have to go there1 they have to take you in40 ,but on the special day set aside for ,mother1 children may combine to give her a bracelet on which charms commemorate happy family times1 or list the names of children1 grandchildren1 and--if the years are generous--great-grandchildren4 ,a tree of life1 a family tree1 or various brooches1 make excellent gifts4 ,gifts for ,father are likely to be simpler4 ,gold cuff links suggest themselves1 shaped in his initials4 ,a gold pencil or pen1 a key ring1 or--if it does not seem too much like a hint6--a money clip1 may all be appropriately inscribed1 as a tribute to the person commonly called the head of the family4 ,for ,later ,birthdays ,birthday presents become more complicated1 and longer cherished1 after childhood4 ,the older one grows--in spite of the jesting about beginning to count backwards--the more one should have absorbed of the wisdom of life1 and the more endeared one should be to friends and family4 ,for one's wife1 one may add a tender touch to a bracelet or other jewel1 by a secret message others will not guess4 ,thus the first letters of four stones set in this order--diamond1 emerald1 amethyst1 ruby--spell ,dear4 ,one can form an alphabet of stones from which many hidden messages can be conveyed to the loved one alone4 ,for a man1 a beautiful birthday gift is a ring with a star ruby1 a star sapphire1 or a cat's-eye1 set in simple heavy metal1 gold1 platinum or palladium4 ,a plain gold signet ring is in good taste1 or one with initials sculptured of the metal4 ,remember1 in buying a ring for a man1 that it should be solid2 for a big man1 quite a heavy band4 ,a man pays little attention to his jewelry1 once he has put it on1 and gives it the hardest wear4 ,he keeps on his ring1 for example1 while driving his car1 swinging through a round of golf1 even performing a quick repair job in the house or working through some 8do it yourself0 mechanics4 ,gifts ,for the ,man ,whatever a man needs1 he probably has4 ,most gifts to men1 therefore1 such as cuff links1 provide them with another jewel of a kind they already possess4 ,this should be no deterrent1 however1 for what a man prizes is less the gift itself than the feeling that inspired it4 ,i will venture the suggestion that man is the sentimental sex4 ,if there is evidence of thoughtfulness behind the gift1 he will doubly cherish it4 ,those cuff links1 for example1 can be chosen in a pattern that suggests one of his special interests or brings memories of some incident shared only by his wife4 ,the ,wife's ,role ,every business and professional man is aware of the importance of proper appearance4 ,many1 however1 do not have the time a woman has to shop and weigh and consider4 ,some1 indeed1 would not think it becoming in a man to spend much time seeking items for his personal embellishment4 ,yet he likes to be well dressed and is naturally pleased when his good taste in accessories is admired4 ,it is thus often the wife's role to see that her husband is fitly equipped4 ,no well groomed man overlooks the place of jewelry in his dress1 but his choice is likely to be quick1 almost slap-bang4 ,it is a further sign of her love that the wife takes it upon herself to make meticulous choices for him4 ,it is as important for a man to wear the right jewelry as it is to wear a clean1 well-fitting shirt4 ,the ,right ,accessories ,however elegant a man's wristwatch1 there is1 for formal occasions1 greater distinction in a thin pocket watch4 ,with a fraternity key1 a pocket watch and chain are also appropriate1 or else a key ring and chain4 ,tie clips and money clips may be secured in many varieties4 ,a superb and truly masculine pair of cuff links can be fashioned of twenty-four carat gold nuggets4 ,although not shiny1 they have an unmistakably precious look2 and1 as a gift1 they capture the genuineness of the feeling in the purest of gold4 ,the ,personal ,touch ,a wise and thoughtful--not to say loving--woman will add a personal touch that marks the gift as something intimately shared4 ,a few words engraved on the gift1 a date significant in the two lives--it may be the anniversary of their first meeting--add a special significance that makes the gift a treasure4 ,just as there may be secrets caught into a gift to a woman1 as when the jewels spell out a sentiment1 so a gift to a man may have its values multiplied by a hidden message4 ,that bar on the key chain1 for example3 who but the two concerned know that it can open and reveal a tiny picture of the beloved8 ,inside the ring may be their linked initials4 ,in many ways which will suggest themselves1 according to the events in the particular couple's life1 a secret shared in the gift keeps the love twinkling4 ,special ,gifts ,on various business and professional occasions1 certain gifts have become established by long practice4 ,a twenty-fifth or other such anniversary in business relations is appropriately marked by the gift of a gold watch4 ,executives leaving their company may be given gold cigarette boxes or cases4 ,to mark special appreciation of an employee1 gold cuff links bearing the seal of the company are a frequent testimonial4 ,a gold watch may mark his long and faithful service4 ,various professions have their honors1 as when a doctor is received into the association of his specialty2 in such cases there are usually insignia that can be wrought into the gift4 ,historic ,gifts ,among givers of gifts1 perhaps the nobles and the ,czars of ,russia have been most lavish4 ,the painted ,easter eggs of the ,russians are widely known1 and many amusing and artistic designs have been painted on actual eggs4 ,but the ,easter egg jewels made by ,faberg are gem-studded works of the lapidary's art4 ,czars and ,emperors--,nicholas1 ,franz ,josef--have bestowed upon persons1 who caught their favor1 watches initialed in diamonds4 ,sometimes1 however1 the ,czar merely ordered the bestowal of the gift1 leaving the details to an officer of the court4 ,this happened after the first command performance of ,chaliapin who scornfully refused the proffered watch1 saying that the ,czar had never sent him that6 ,shortly after1 ,chaliapin received another watch1 this one with the ,imperial coat-of-arms in diamonds4 ,for ,king ,zog of ,albania1 our firm developed a jewel that has grown in popularity3 a watch so thin that it is fitted inside of a hollowed coin4 ,those coins bore a relief of ,king ,zog on one side1 his coat-of-arms on the other2 the watches were presented to high officers for supremacy in horsemanship and other contests4 ,the ,presentation of a ,gift ,in the ,united ,states1 where the packaging industry has achieved consummate skills1 the way in which a gift is presented is particularly important4 ,the care taken in selecting the jewel must be reflected in the container4 ,the first thing the recipient sees is the wrapping2 this must quicken the anticipation of the surprise and delight inside4 ,naturally1 the gift comes wrapped by the jeweler4 ,it should be left that way4 ,a precious jewel will be encased in a fine leather or velvet box4 ,to this1 the jeweler has given considerable thought1 selecting shape1 size1 color1 and material that will display the particular jewel to best advantage4 ,often1 when ,i design a piece of jewelry1 ,i am asked to suggest how to package it for presentation4 ,the box1 then1 is a carefully chosen background for the jewel4 ,for an especially significant gift1 it can be arranged to have the box embossed in gold with the initials or name of the person receiving it1 and the date of the special occasion4 ,without taking the jewel out of its wrapping and box1 there are many ways in which an added personal arrangement may grace the giving4 ,the jewelry box1 for instance1 may be adorned with a single rose1 or a few of the lady's favorite flowers1 or flowers associated with a mutual memory4 ,or the florist may be asked to place the jewelry box inside the cellophane box that holds a corsage or an orchid4 ,the flower brings its own pleasure1 then multiplied by the surprise of the jewel4 ,the sweet tingle of surprise may also be increased by enclosing the jewelry box in a larger one1 which disguises the typical shape of the gift box4 ,if the gift is a bracelet1 it might well be tucked into a glove box1 along with a pair of gloves4 ,or the jewel may be innocently placed in a drawer of a little antique jewelry case2 on opening the attractive case1 behold6 the attractive jewel4 ,at ,christmas time1 the box can be set upon the tree4 ,still more appealing would be a separate tree1 such as those little artificial ones1 the sole ornament of which is the box with the proffered jewel4 ,in the ,middle ,ages1 when jewels were thought to have special powers to preserve health1 to ward off evil1 they were thus effective only when received as a gift4 ,the gift of jewels still has a special power1 beyond the intrinsic value of the gems carrying the weight of love1 establishing a memento and sustaining the sentiments that build into happy lives4 ,illustration3 #dh4 ,,portrait ,,of ,h4 ,h4 ,,indira ,,devi4 ,the ,maharani of ,cooch ,behar holds a famous necklace of rare ruby beads with two large clasps made of diamonds4 ,illustration3 #di4 ,,spray ,,pin ,,design4 ,round1 marquise and baguette diamonds create this handsome clip which can also be worn in the hair or separated for earclips4 ,illustration3 #ej4 ,,design ,,for ,a ,,diamond ,,clip4 ,round and pearshape diamonds form a pendant of grape-like design which can be detached from the baguette ribbons and worn as a striking addition to a pearl or diamond necklace4 ,illustration3 #ea4 ,,design ,,for ,a ,,double ,,clip4 ,distinctive effects are produced when this clip of round and baguette diamonds is separated into its two harmonizing but unequal parts4 ,illustration3 #eb4 ,,design ,,for ,a ,,gold ,,and ,,diamond ,,pin4 ,round diamonds individually set in #ah karat gold create this handsome jewel4 ,illustration3 #ec4 ,,portrait ,,of ,,flippy4 ,the author's poodle is sculptured in #bb karat gold4 ,the eye is represented by a yellow diamond1 and the collar is made of baguettes4 ,illustration3 #ed4 ,,florian4 ,this replica of ,emperor ,franz ,josef ,i's snow-white show horse1 immortalized in ,felix ,salten's book1 is wrought in platinum with #bdf diamonds4 ,the bridle and hoofs are made of pure fine-gold4 ,illustration3 #ee4 ,,set ,,of ,,earclips ,,and ,,brooch4 ,the same motif is repeated in both the pin and the earclips without making them identical4 ,movement is suggested by the sculptured effect of the leaves4 ,the delicacy of this design makes it ideal for the petite woman4 ,illustration3 #ef4 ,,gold ,,and ,,diamond ,,watch4 ,gubelin of ,switzerland designed this gold watch bracelet with a diamond motif which gracefully conceals the face of the watch4 ,the wide band is well-suited to a heavy wrist4 ,illustration3 #eg4 ,,pearl ,,necklace ,,with ,,two ,,diamond ,,motifs4 ,to stress a delicate neckline1 three strands of perfectly matched pearls are tapered down to two strands in back4 ,the two abstract ornaments of platinum and round and baguette diamonds are both decorative and functional--one of the motifs contains the clasp4 ,illustration3 #eh4 ,,table ,,of ,,stones4 ,the four most desired shapes of diamonds 7from top to bottom73 ,the round brilliant-cut diamond ,the emerald-cut diamond ,the marquise-cut diamond ,the pearshape diamond ,illustration3 #ei4 ,,models ,,of ,,the ,,kohinoor ,,diamond4 ,the model in the hand shows the famous stone as it appeared to ,queen ,victoria when presented to her in #ahej by the ,east ,india ,company4 ,at that time it weighed #ahf carats but1 because the ,indian form of cutting was thought to smother some of the natural fire1 the ,queen decided to have it re-cut4 ,after #ch days of work1 the re-cut stone1 shown in the replica on the cushion1 weighs only #aji carats4 ,the ,kohinoor is now in ,queen ,elizabeth's crown4 ,illustration3 #fj4 ,,gold ,,cigar ,,box4 ,presented to the late ,king ,carol ,,ii of ,roumania1 this unique box is engraved with a map of his country depicting the agriculture and industry4 ,the natural resources are highlighted by precious stones--a different stone is used for each product of raw material4 ,the clasp1 representing the royal coat of arms1 is made of diamonds and platinum4 ,,part ,,four ,the ,techniques and ,care of ,jewels ,,chapter #ac ,the ,techniques of ,gems ,i have been using the terminology of the field of gems and jewelry1 taking it for granted that the meanings would be understood4 ,perhaps it is time to make these terms more precise4 ,definitions ,a jewel1 or a piece of jewelry1 is a costly ornament1 especially of gold1 platinum1 or precious stones2 or of stones set in one of these metals4 ,a precious stone is one highly prized for human adornment4 ,its value is measured mainly by its beauty1 its rarity1 and its durability4 ,the precious stones are1 by general understanding1 limited to the diamond1 the ruby1 the emerald1 and the sapphire4 ,the pearl1 though strictly not a stone and far less durable1 is nevertheless1 because of its beauty and the rarity of superb specimens1 included among the precious gems4 ,a gem is a precious stone of rare quality1 especially when cut and polished4 ,all other stones used in jewelry are semiprecious4 ,light on the ,stones ,stones may be characterized according to their response to light4 ,lustrous stones are those which catch the light brilliantly and glow almost as though with an inner flame4 ,the cutting of the gem may aid in this effect1 as with the diamond4 ,vitreous stones are of the glassy type1 not lustrous4 ,these may be transparent1 permitting one to see objects clearly through the stone1 like a fine crystal2 or they may be translucent1 permitting one to see light and shadow but not distinct objects through the stone4 ,when light falls upon such translucent stones as moss agate1 moonstone and agate1 there is a soft glow4 ,or stones may be opaque1 permitting no passage of light1 like the turquoise4 ,because of their crystalline structure1 even the opaque stones1 however1 may respond glowingly to light4 ,sometimes when the stone was formed1 tiny cracks or bubbles stayed between the crystals4 ,as the stone is moved1 these cracks cause a play of prismatic colors which seems almost the sparking of an inner fire4 ,to the names of such stones the term fire is prefixed2 they are extremely rare and beautiful4 ,the ,empress ,josephine had a fire opal so remarkably aflame that she called it 8,the ,burning of ,troy40 ,star ,gems ,another variation from regularity1 which can scarcely be called an imperfection or a flaw1 enhances the beauty and the value of a precious stone4 ,a certain break or tiny space in the crystalline structure may produce a radiation of three lines crossing at a single point1 giving the effect of a six-pointed star4 ,the star ruby and the star sapphire are among the most highly prized of all gems4 ,the ,pearl ,the pearl has been described as 8a disease of the oyster40 ,a tiny foreign object1 such as a grain of sand or a chip off the inside of the shell 7this inside is called nacre or mother-of-pearl7 becomes imbedded in the oyster itself2 it is1 of course1 an irritant4 ,drawing upon its natural resources but unable to expel the foreigner1 the oyster protects itself by isolating the intruder1 building around the speck a thin layer of an iridescent fluid1 similar to that which lines the oyster shell4 ,this fluid hardens1 layer after layer4 ,given proper time--about four or five years--and the proper species of oyster--not the kind commonly used for food--and a pearl is born4 ,a cultured pearl differs from an imitation pearl much as a synthetic differs from a paste stone4 ,a cultured pearl is naturally developed by an oyster which has been artificially inseminated4 ,man starts the process1 the oyster carries it through4 ,about #aibj an ingenious ,japanese inserted a tiny bead of mother-of-pearl into an oyster2 the result was the first cultured pearl4 ,since the oyster is first captured1 then inoculated1 then released under controlled conditions1 the processes of production can be kept less haphazard1 the time speeded and the quantity increased4 ,as with synthetic gems1 however1 there are tiny indications1 in structure1 in lustrousness1 by which the cultured may be distinguished from the native pearl4 ,cutting the ,stones ,i have mentioned that the cutting may help to bring out the brilliance of a stone4 ,there are two main types of cutting3 the cabochon1 used from earliest times2 and the faceting1 used increasingly over the past four centuries4 ,each is still valued for particular stones and purposes4 ,cabochon ,a stone cabochon cut is cut in a smooth upward 7convex7 curve1 like the arc of a circle or an ellipse4 ,most frequent is the medium cut1 a smooth oval with the under surface flat4 ,the steep cut produces a dome-like effect1 as of a small haystack or high mound4 ,in the hollow cut1 the upper surface is convex and the lower surface is concave1 the effect being that of a small bar curving upward4 ,the fourth commonly used cabochon cut is the double cut1 the upper surface curving up and the lower surface curving down1 like a tiny elongated football4 ,which of these cuts is used depends partly upon the jewel for which the stone is intended1 but mainly upon the original shape and coloring of the stone4 ,facets ,transparent and translucent stones which seem to have radiance are usually made more beautiful by faceting4 ,a facet is a small1 smooth face or plane surface2 a number of these are cut upon a gem4 ,in most facet-cut gems five regions can be distinguished4 ,the table--the top of the stone--is usually flat1 though it may be slightly domed2 it is usually the largest of the facets1 though the size may vary according to the stone and the type of cut4 ,the bezel is the slope from the top1 consisting of slanted1 smooth faces that may proceed in various planes or by ninety-degree 8steps0 down to the girdle4 ,the girdle is the widest part1 the 8equator10 of the cut stone2 it is here that the setting is usually attached4 ,the pavilion is the part that slants down from the girdle to the culet1 which is the bottom point of the stone4 ,sometimes the stone is slightly truncate2 that is1 it is cut to a small flat surface1 instead of a point1 at the culet4 ,more generally1 the part of the stone above the girdle is the crown2 the part below the base4 ,types of ,faceting ,there are many patterns of faceting4 ,six are fairly common4 #a4 ,brilliant4 ,this is used especially for large diamonds1 which are then often called brilliants4 ,the gem is cut as though two pyramids with sixteen-sided bases were placed base against base1 the points at opposite ends4 ,the upper point is truncated1 to form the table4 ,brilliant-cut gems usually have #eh facets1 #cc above the girdle1 #be below4 ,for the sake of the superb light effects achieved by this cut1 there is often sacrificed a considerable portion of the original stone4 #b4 ,rose4 ,this may be used for smaller diamonds and other gems4 ,the rose cut is circular1 with the table slightly domed4 ,it is flat underneath4 ,the part above the girdle is usually cut into #bd equal facets4 #c4 ,square4 ,this cut1 as its name indicates1 provides a square table4 ,the facets are cut parallel to the girdle1 both above it and below4 ,since they will thus seem to be proceeding downward in a succession of steps1 this is also called the step cut4 #d4 ,emerald4 ,the emerald cut may have either a square or an oblong table4 ,the corners1 instead of being pointed and at right angles as in the square cut1 are cut off and faceted4 ,as the name implies1 this is a frequent cut for the emerald1 but the topaz1 amethyst1 aquamarine1 and other stones--even the diamond--may be square cut or emerald cut4 #e4 ,marquise4 ,the marquise cut is somewhat like an oval1 but pointed at the ends3 boat-shaped4 ,it is sometimes called navette4 #f4 ,pear-shape4 ,this very fancy shape is cut like a marquise but with one side rounded out1 giving a tear or drop-like appearance4 ,it lends itself very well to free-hanging parts on necklaces and earclips4 ,this cut is growing in popularity for an engagement ring4 ,there are many other possibilities of special faceting and fancy cuts4 ,stones may be cut in the shape of a kite1 a keystone1 a lozenge1 a triangle1 a half-moon or other figure4 ,popular among special shapes is the baguette1 8little stick10 in which the stone is cut to resemble a small rod4 ,increasingly in recent years1 especially as a sentimental souvenir and even more in the new engagement rings1 diamonds are being cut heart-shaped4 ,this is a difficult and a costly pattern to produce since not every diamond lends itself to be cut into heart shape4 ,facet cuts have come to be far more frequent than cabochon4 ,cabochon1 usually in a medium cut1 is still used for star rubies and star sapphires1 as its smooth surface most lavishly displays the radiance of the star4 ,also1 the moving band of light in the cat's-eye and the reflection in the moonstone are at their best in cabochon4 ,when the color in a ruby1 garnet1 or sapphire is beautifully deep1 the curve of the cabochon takes fullest advantage of that depth and richness4 ,cabochon cut is also used for most opaque stones1 as the opal1 the turquoise1 and the jade4 ,the baguette cut is most often used around a ring1 or as a frame for larger stones4 ,each cut has its separate beauty1 and is designed to bring out the richest qualities of its gem4 ,hardness of the ,stones ,one reason for the pre-eminence of the diamond is its indestructibility4 ,it is by far the hardest of all stones4 ,setting the standard of the diamond at ten1 a table has been made of descending hardness4 ,the whole numbers on this scale are marked as follows3 #aj diamond #i corundum #h topaz #g quartz #f feldspar #e apatite #d fluorspar #c calcite #b gypsum #a talc ,it is at once obvious that few of these are precious1 or even semi-precious1 stones4 ,what must be noted is that this list is not a proportionate scale2 that is1 it indicates order1 but by no means any specific degree of hardness4 ,the difference in hardness between the diamond and its neighbor1 corundum1 is greater than that between corundum and talc4 ,the best that can be said is that1 as they are arranged1 each one can scratch all those listed below it4 ,thus there is no other stone that can scratch a diamond4 ,the old saying 8diamond cut diamond0 means that two champions are evenly matched1 and diamonds can be cut and polished only in this fashion4 ,a wheel of corundum or other substance is coated with diamond dust2 when this is applied to a diamond stone1 an equal process of attrition takes place2 diamond dust is worn off both the wheel and the stone4 ,this dust1 of course1 may be used for further cutting and polishing to make the finished stone4 ,the cutting referred to here is the shaping of the facets and the surfaces of the stone2 for most crystalline formations1 however hard1 are brittle2 that is1 they may be split or cleaved along the lines of the crystal edge4 ,this accounts for both the possibility and the danger of cleaving the raw diamond4 ,formed under tremendous pressure beneath the surface of the earth1 a diamond may be distorted in its growth2 it may be an unshapely and often a fairly large stone1 which must be cleft to a proper shape and size for setting4 ,this cleaving1 effected by a single hammer tap1 is made only after minute examination and re-examination--sometimes a year's pondering--by an anxious expert4 ,after this cleavage1 a diamond will be much smaller than when it was mined1 but it counterbalances the loss of size by the greater brilliance and beauty the new shape discloses4 ,the ,kohinoor diamond was over #gjj carats when it was found2 when cut it was no more than #ahf carats2 and since then it was recut1 as a brilliant1 to its present weight of #ajf carats4 ,sculpture has been defined as the process of removing the excess from the marble statue already within the block2 how much more this is true of the precious stone1 which the lapidary releases from its dull confinement6 ,diamond dust1 black diamonds1 and hard metals may be used to shape1 engrave and polish the other stones4 ,a list of some of the stones frequently used in ornaments and jewels would rank them1 for hardness1 in the following order3 diamond #aj sapphire #i ruby #h4h chrysoberyl #h4e spinel #h topaz #h aquamarine #h emerald #g4h zircon #g4h tourmaline #g4e amethyst #g bloodstone #g chalcedony #g onyx #g jade #f4e peridot #f4c moonstone #f4c turquoise #f opal #f lapis lazuli #e4b pearl #d malachite #c4e coral #c4e amber #b4e jet #b4e ,qualities of a ,stone ,the qualities that determine the value of a stone are difficult to specify4 ,hardness1 size1 weight and shape are obvious elements4 ,lustre and the powers of reflecting and refracting light clearly contribute to the value4 ,the manner in which a stone is cut may add to its value1 either because of the light effects or because of the interesting shape4 ,one might expect perfection1 freedom from flaw1 to be important1 and indeed in the diamond this is so4 ,the most common flaw in the diamond1 by the way1 is not a crack but a speck or tiny specks of carbon remaining between the crystals1 the diamond being a crystallized form of carbon4 ,in other stones--as we have observed of the star ruby1 the star sapphire and the cat's eye--a physical flaw may result in a greater aesthetic desirability4 ,other special features may enhance the value of a particular stone2 a recently discovered ruby is the only known example of a double star1 with not six but twelve rays4 ,the history and associations of a gem or jewel1 dramatic or sentimental1 storied or personal1 may be what makes its possession desirable4 ,measurement ,one seldom speaks of the size of a precious stone2 other things being equal1 its value is estimated by its weight4 ,the unit of weight1 in measuring precious stones1 is the carat4 ,as the word carat comes from the ,arabic1 meaning the nut or bean of the carob tree1 it was evidently in olden times a rather imprecise measure4 ,it has now been made definite as two-tenths of a gram 7#a;c4 #j4b gr474 ,it takes #ada carats to make an ounce1 and therefore #b1bfh carats to make a pound4 ,smaller diamonds are measured by points2 one hundred points equal one carat4 ,the pearl is usually measured by the grain2 a grain equals of a carat1 or one twentieth of a gram 7#j4je gr474 7,this grain is not to be confused with the grain that is the smallest unit in the ,english system of weight47 ,any pearl which is less than one quarter of a grain is called a seed pearl2 an ounce of these may contain as many as #g1jjj to #i1jjj pearls4 ,they are used in embroidery1 in weaving cloth1 and for many-stranded chains4 ,the ,precious ,metals ,the purity of gold is also measured in carats2 in the ,united ,states1 to distinguish the two systems1 the gold weight is spelled with a k3 karat4 ,pure gold is spoken of1 arbitrarily1 as being #bd karat gold4 ,pure gold1 however1 is too soft for most uses1 especially in jewelry2 it is therefore mixed with a harder metal2 the mixture1 and the less valuable metal used in the mixture1 are both called the alloy4 ,the number of karats of gold indicated is the proportion of pure gold in the alloy4 ,thus1 #ah karat gold means #ah parts of pure gold mixed with #f parts of alloy4 ,alloys ,the alloy is usually formed by fusing metals together2 when molten they dissolve in each other and form an intimate union1 often 7as in industrial uses7 producing a new metal with qualities quite different from those of the separate elements of the mixture4 ,the admixture of nickel or zinc with gold produces what is called white gold2 an alloy of copper or brass is red gold1 ranging in color from pink to deep rose2 an alloy of silver is green gold4 ,in addition to gold--mainly #bj1 #ah1 and #ad karat gold--pure 7sterling7 silver1 platinum and1 more recently1 palladium are also effectively employed for jewels1 alone or as background in which to set precious stones4 ,other precious metals occasionally used in the making of jewels are iridium1 rhodium and ruthenium4 ,the favorites1 however1 continue to be platinum and gold4 ,,chapter #ad ,the ,care of ,jewels ,how to ,care ,for ,jewels ,there are many misconceptions as to the care and the cleaning of jewels4 ,and there is but one sound rule4 ,when jewelry needs to be cleaned1 take it to the jeweler4 ,a woman who takes her jewels to a jeweler1 to have him clean them1 is showing that she regards him as her regular dealer2 as such1 he will be happy to clean them without charge4 ,at the same time1 he will check the settings1 the clasps1 the safety catches4 ,while home cleaning might damage a stone1 or loosen it in its setting1 professional work restores the jewel so that it is both cleaner and more secure than before4 ,home ,care ,there is one way in which a woman can help to keep her jewelry clean4 ,every time that a jewel is worn1 it should be wiped with clean tissue paper1 or chamois leather1 before being put away4 7,facial tissue should not be used1 as it will leave a fuzz47 ,such a gentle wiping will remove the grease of finger-marks1 and other marks or specks4 ,cleaning ,don'ts ,in general1 it is inadvisable to use a brush for cleaning jewelry1 as it tends to loosen the stones4 ,eventually--not while being cleaned1 but during an otherwise pleasant evening--a stone may fall from the setting4 ,ammonia1 soap1 and other cleaning agents are likely to leave a film4 ,this may be imperceptible2 a woman may think she has 8cleaned it all off02 and yet it may greatly lessen the brilliance of the stone4 ,soaking in boiling water--with or without chemicals--is dangerous4 ,some alloys as well as some stones cannot stand such treatment4 ,likewise sudden heat1 or sudden cooling1 may seriously damage certain stones2 some may even crack1 or break4 ,most delicate are the emerald1 the peridot1 the aquamarine1 and the turquoise4 ,the turquoise especially should not come into contact with fatty or oily substances4 ,it is porous1 and such substances are likely to change its color1 or to make it dull4 ,in every case1 when she is tempted to apply home cleaning to her jewels1 a woman should remember that the jeweler is equipped with steam blowers and other modern devices1 each for its particular type of stone1 and he is glad to be called upon to give his expert knowledge and gentle care4 ,pearls ,perhaps most care is required in the handling of the pearl4 ,boiling1 for example1 is almost sure to loosen any pearls in a jewel4 ,all chemicals are to be avoided4 ,for casual cleaning1 a pearl necklace may be wiped with a clean and slightly damp cloth4 ,it should not be pulled2 the best way is to roll it on a towel4 ,if the necklace becomes too wet1 the string may become loosened4 ,a pearl necklace1 indeed1 should be regularly restrung2 there is little sense in waiting until it breaks4 ,when the knots near the clasp of the necklace have become grey1 restringing time has come4 ,one must be careful not to put perfume1 or any liquid containing alcohol1 on1 or close to1 pearls4 ,they may lose their lustre1 or even start to peel4 ,at the hairdresser's1 pearls should of course be removed before any treatment4 ,the heat of the dryer1 for example1 may loosen the pearls in their settings4 ,reminders ,some of the things in this chapter ,i have already said2 this is a time for reminders4 ,and one important reminder is that1 even if the front pearls are strung without knots--and they will be more lustrous if thus close together--a few pearls on each side of the clasp should always be knotted4 ,that is the danger spot for breaks4 ,another helpful reminder is that elaborate jewels may be made with removable or convertible parts4 ,i have discussed in detail how a very formal jewel1 likely to be worn on rare occasions1 may be so fashioned that1 in various smaller units1 it can be enjoyed more freely and frequently4 ,and just one more reminder--about the necklace clasp4 ,a colored stone1 such as an emerald or a ruby1 may highlight a necklace of pearls4 ,or the clasp may be of a single pearl1 encircled by marquise or baguette diamonds4 ,but here is the place to enshrine that still precious but 8grown too small0 engagement ring3 make the engagement diamond the chief stone in the necklace clasp4 ,and of course something suitable must come for that empty space next to the wedding band6 ,more ,cautioning ,several other observations will be helpful4 ,a small pearl clasp should never be worn in front4 ,instead of looking attractive1 it will just look untidy4 ,a pearl necklace and a gold necklace should not be worn together4 ,each will weaken the effect of the other4 ,rhinestone ornaments should be avoided when one is wearing precious jewelry4 ,rhinestones on dress or evening bag will cheapen the entire effect4 ,with jewelry1 all other accessories should be subdued4 ,the amethyst is a temperamental stone4 ,if worn in a ring1 it calls for nail polish in the purple hues4 ,if these are unbecoming to a woman's hands1 the amethyst is not for her4 ,this may happen when the skin pigment tends to be dark2 amethysts may then make it seem sallow4 ,but if the purple hues are becoming1 there may be great beauty in the amethyst4 ,modern and antique jewels--this is an emphatic reminder--should never be worn together4 ,modern cuts make stones so brilliant that they will overshadow the daintier antiques1 and may even make them look false4 ,the charm of the antique lies in its intricate and delicate workmanship1 in the grace of its details4 ,beside modern pieces1 these qualities are lost4 ,always1 the one exception is the wearing of the engagement and the wedding ring2 these may be worn with either modern or antique jewels4 ,for ,travel ,one of the major concerns in regard to jewelry is its protection away from home4 ,such questions as how to carry it1 and how to insure it1 call for consideration and prior care4 ,insurance ,all good jewelry should of course be insured1 itemized piece by piece4 ,this involves an appraisal by a recognized jewelry firm1 which will register the various jewels1 listing the number of stones and their weight1 and indicating the current retail replacement value4 ,there should also be a photographic record made of the jewels4 ,this may be kept in microfilm4 ,most large jewelers keep a photographic record of every jewel that passes through their hands4 ,the appraisal of the jewels should be kept up to date4 ,values of stones are in a state of constant change2 usually there is an increase4 ,once a year is not too often for a reappraisal1 and the insurance broker should at once be informed of any significant changes4 ,such a revised evaluation is a guarantee of full compensation in the event of loss1 and gives an adjustor no ground for argument as to the value of a jewel or a stone4 ,the inventory should include every piece of jewelry1 including the less expensive items1 such as might be worn every day4 ,these are just the ones that are likely to be lost or stolen4 ,the ,traveling ,case ,since most policies cover the loss or theft of jewels at home or abroad1 there is no need to leave precious jewels at home while traveling4 ,there is1 of course1 no need to advertise their presence by boarding a ship or plane with a standard jewelry case carefully in hand4 ,much less conspicuous1 as well as safer and more convenient1 is a jewelry pouch carried inside the handbag4 ,individual pouches can accommodate the various jewels4 ,long experience traveling with many jewels1 both of my professional and of my personal collection1 enabled me to fashion a pouch that combines practicality with good looks4 ,this pattern has come to be widely used1 and may be purchased at leading stores throughout the country4 ,the pouch is made of suede leather1 chamois lined2 it contains partitions that comfortably hold the various types of jewel3 bracelets1 earclips1 clips1 rings1 necklaces1 and the rest4 ,bracelets and necklaces1 of course1 should not be forced out of shape by rolling or bending1 lest the stones be pressed out of their settings4 ,the chamois is designed to keep the jewels apart1 so as not to scratch one another4 ,hard gems might1 for instance1 injure the skin of pearls4 ,the hardest of all1 the diamond1 must be carefully wrapped so that it will not scratch other stones4 ,should there be enough jewels in the collection to warrant more than one pouch1 the lucky owner may have the suede in various colors4 ,an emerald parure may thus be in the green pouch1 while the red pouch holds the jewels that are mainly of rubies4 ,this will not only save hunting around1 but will simplify selection if the jewels are left with the purser4 ,it is wise1 on board a liner1 to check one's jewelry with the purser1 and to take out each day only the pieces that are to help one shine on that occasion4 ,first day and last day at sea are most informal4 ,registering ,jewels ,all jewels taken on a trip should be listed2 a copy of the list should be taken1 another copy should be left at home4 ,some countries1 such as ,turkey1 have rigid regulations regarding the export of jewels4 ,in such cases--which can be indicated by the travel agent--it is well to register one's jewelry with the customs official when entering the country4 ,in this way1 one can be sure of taking it out4 ,similarly1 for complete security of this sort throughout a journey1 jewelry may be registered with the ,u4,s4 ,customs before leaving the ,united ,states4 ,the customs officer checks the jewelry and the list1 keeps a copy and gives one1 officially signed1 to the traveler4 ,in cases where this precaution was not taken1 a person returning to the ,united ,states has been unable to prove that she had a certain valuable jewel before leaving the country1 and has had to pay duty on it4 ,such a list may be helpful in many ways4 ,every large port has this service available to travelers4 ,in ,new ,york1 jewels may be officially registered at the ,appraiser ,stores1 at #bja ,varick ,street1 where courteous attention and thoughtful advice are given to all4 ,traveling ,cautions ,jewelry should never be left in an untended car4 ,sometimes that 8just a moment0 away stretches to dangerous minutes4 ,jewelry should never be left in checked baggage4 ,jewelry should not be left in the drawers of the dressing table1 nor indeed anywhere in an unguarded room4 ,every hotel has a safe in which1 without charge1 guests may keep their valuables4 ,,chapter #ae ,jewelry ,up to ,date ,there are several important matters to be considered in the preservation of jewelry4 ,although all stones may grow temporarily dull from the accretion of dirt and grime1 or even from a soapy film added by the attempt to clean them1 most stones endure indefinitely4 ,most jewelry1 however1 does not1 simply because it becomes old-fashioned4 ,the ,old and the ,antique ,if jewels are old-fashioned for a long enough time1 they may become antique4 ,antique jewelry has historical or traditional value and may be worn with great effect on certain occasion--it should not1 of course1 be mixed with jewels of other periods4 ,there is a vast difference between something that is antique and something that is merely old4 ,as out-of-date furniture makes a room look old-fashioned1 out-of-date jewelry makes a woman look old4 ,the stones in these outmoded jewels are as good as ever they were4 ,indeed1 they have quite possibly grown more valuable through the years4 ,not only are they as beautiful as when first worn but they are enhanced by the years of sentiment which have cast their special aura around them4 ,it is the piece as a whole1 the design that frames the stone1 that has become old-fashioned4 ,the obvious thing to do is to have it remodelled4 ,old ,jewelry with ,new ,possibilities ,the immediate problem with regard to remodelling is the man4 ,a husband may be loving and generous1 but in proportion as he is1 he is likely also to be sentimental4 ,few men recognize1 or at least admit1 the fact that man is the sentimental sex4 ,a husband may occasionally ask his wife why she is not wearing a jewel he gave her years ago4 ,he would of course resent her telling him she no longer cared for it4 ,and he would probably be a little bewildered and resentful if she told him bluntly that it is out-of-date4 ,a simple process of education might make him see how the old one can again be made part of the currently usable treasures4 ,the fact that the jewel is not disregarded but is cherished as a sign of the bond of love that led to its purchase should please any husband4 ,but no man wants his loved one to look older than necessary1 any more than he would not want her wearing knee-length skirts when all around the skirts come half a foot closer to the ground4 ,when the jewel was first chosen1 although the design was doubtless appropriate to the times1 the basic consideration was the beauty of the gems1 their intrinsic value1 and what they could do to beautify the woman for whom they were selected4 ,these things have not changed4 ,nor has the woman's love for them1 nor--we have assumed--her love for the donor4 ,but the brightness of the design has faded4 ,remodelling with a fresh design will put a new jewel in the ear and a new sparkle in the eye4 ,the old sentiment will be refurbished1 the old love will gleam anew4 ,the ,contemporary ,jewels ,it is surprising how1 though the stones themselves remain unchanged1 remodelling can create an entirely new jewel4 ,many an old-fashioned piece now in a safety vault1 sheltered from all but the dust of time1 can be given a beautiful modern setting and restored to an active place in one's evenings4 ,modern design not only can give the precious stones a new styling1 but can bring out their beauty as it never shone before4 ,even the solitaire diamond1 simplest of jewels and seemingly most constant in fashion1 can be given a helpful face-lifting4 ,higher settings have been devised which permit the light to radiate more fully from all angles of the facet surfaces4 ,the powers of reflection of which we know more now than in former years are thus used in additional interplays of light4 ,modern ,movement ,a piece of jewelry made some years ago is likely to be symmetrical4 ,this type of design contains a quiet beauty4 ,the great classical statues are symmetrical2 that is1 if a vertical line is drawn down from the middle of the forehead1 the body will be equally distributed on each side2 an arm thrust forward is balanced by a leg held back4 ,thus all is in equipoise1 calm and quiet4 ,but the modern figure in marble1 bronze or other material1 by some subtle shifting of the balance will be out of equilibrium4 ,the sculptor ,rodin has a great figure of ,john the ,baptist1 taking a giant stride--with both feet flat on the ground4 ,this1 some may exclaim1 is an anatomical impossibility4 ,precisely6 ,in ,rodin's statue1 as the eye flicks from one foot to the other1 the figure has taken the step6 ,by this and other sorts of manipulation1 the modern sculptor endows his figures with expectant motion4 ,the comparison of jewelry with sculpture is especially apt1 for the three-dimensional jewelry of today presents a challenge to the sculptor4 ,some of the great sculptors of all times have worked with the precious metals2 some of the jewel designers have had training with sculptors' materials and tools4 ,i have often been gratified that ,i graduated from the ,vienna ,academy of ,arts and ,crafts as a sculptor1 and many of my jewels ,i consider examples of the sculptor's art4 ,it is1 then1 fair to say that the jewelry of our grandmothers was conceived somewhat as a mid-nineteenth century picture1 symmetrical1 flat1 and often stiff1 whereas the jewelry of today is built out into three dimensions4 ,there are three keynotes of modern jewelry design3 height1 airiness and grace of movement4 ,literally as well as emotionally1 a modern jewel is a moving work of art4 ,it is naturally impossible to indicate all the designs in which jewelry can be remodelled4 ,in considering the separate types of jewel1 from earclips to brooches1 ,i have indicated what is becoming to various personalities4 ,beyond this1 there must be the judgment of good taste1 based on the need and the jewels with which the newly fashioned one will be worn1 whether of a classical1 modern or neutral 7such as a flower7 motif4 ,beyond all these1 it must be recognized that remodelling jewelry calls first for the imagination of the artist and then for the skill of the craftsman4 ,the wearer or the purchaser--or both--may have ideas1 but they should be put to the test through the eyes of an experienced jeweler4 ,the ,jeweler as ,artist ,it is an easy matter to select a jeweler when one is purchasing something new4 ,a woman may just window-shop along the avenue1 then drift into a reliable store4 ,she finds a jewel she likes and her husband does not object to the price4 ,with a remodelling project1 there are many more concerns4 ,from the purely practical point of view1 the woman must be sure the jeweler is thoroughly reliable4 ,he has to remove the gems from their setting4 ,he must clean1 count1 weigh1 and register them1 and see that she gets the same stones back4 ,the jeweler must be not a salesman but an experienced craftsman1 able to recognize the possibilities inherent in the stone4 ,he should be able to visualize various new settings and to decide in which of these the stone will be most favorably dressed4 ,he should have a flair for fashion1 so that the new setting1 while up to the minute1 does not quickly grow behind the times4 ,the designer should be one to whom each jewel is a new challenge4 ,the problem must engage his enthusiasm1 must make him eager to create1 out of the piece of jewelry he is shown1 something more beautiful and more becoming4 ,he must look upon his task with a sense of responsibility akin to that of the old master of the guild1 who gloried not in his wealth but in the competence of his craftsmen4 ,in short1 whatever the financial transactions involved1 the person who is to be entrusted with the remodelling of a jewel should regard it not as a merchant but as an artist4 ,varied ,stones ,it may be a good idea to complement the existing stones in a jewel with some extra stones of different cut4 ,diamonds of special or fancy cut add a modern note at once1 for in previous years the use of such stones was virtually unknown4 ,in all likelihood1 the jewel will be enhanced by the addition of some baguette diamonds4 ,this cut makes a most versatile gem4 ,it has been incorporated into virtually every modern jewel that makes use of precious stones1 for it gives the designer scope for otherwise unattainable modulations4 ,by using stones of such fancy or varied cut1 the jeweler achieves in his creation contrasts in the reflection of the light that give new play to the sparkle and new depth and beauty to the jewel4 ,varied ,treatment ,it is by no means necessary for the woman who takes a jewel to be remodelled to think of the new piece in terms of the same sort of jewel4 8,once a gentleman always a gentleman10 said ,dickens1 and a good thing if it were so4 ,but it does not follow that 8,once an earclip always an earclip0 is an equally desirable or inevitable pattern1 or that a bracelet should be condemned to endure forever as a band around the arm4 ,the stones from a pair of earrings may well be remodelled into the center stones of a bracelet4 ,an old bracelet1 on the other hand1 may become a parure3 earclips1 dress or hair clip1 and a ring4 ,an old pendant may have stones that can be beautifully reset as earclips and a brooch1 and countless other variations and transformations need little more than the imagination and the desire4 ,remodelling of ,watches ,many a bureau drawer or jewel box holds more than one discarded wrist watch4 ,the setting may be of diamonds or other gems1 but the style is pass4 ,this jewel may be brought out and remodelled into a fresh and beautiful piece4 ,it should not1 however1 be thought of as the centerpiece in a gold bangle bracelet4 ,set against the stiff gold1 it will not be improved1 but will the more clearly proclaim that it is old-fashioned4 ,instead1 the jeweler should consider the possibility of centering the diamond wrist watch in an important diamond and pearl bracelet4 ,if the watch movement is still in good condition1 the watch can be incorporated in the bracelet so cleverly that the functional aspect of the timepiece will be wholly subordinate to1 if not lost in1 the beauty of the jewel4 ,adding ,pearls ,pearls are perhaps the most adaptable of reformers among the gems4 ,the addition of cultured pearls can be most helpful in restoring the beauty of an outmoded jewel4 ,if the diamonds in the old piece are not many or not large1 and a more important or imposing jewel is desired--without the purchase of new precious stones--the jeweler should be able to suggest various new designs in which the sole additions are cultured pearls4 ,even the engagement ring is susceptible to flattering new treatment4 ,the fact that the band may have grown too small provides a good occasion for remodelling4 ,in a dome-shaped arrangement of cultured pearls the centered solitaire becomes a more significant gem1 never more precious but considerably more imposing4 ,infinite ,riches in a ,little ,room ,thus the little old jewel is capable of infinite surprises4 ,the woman who has never had one of her jewels remodelled just has to admire a new piece of one of her friends and be told it is an old one remodelled3 8,remember that diamond brooch ,i used to wear80 ,remembering the 8before0 and beholding the 8after10 a woman's eyes will light with a new recognition4 ,the old jewels were1 in the main1 massy with metals4 ,the new ones are graced with an airy technique of jewel design4 ,it is no commercial slogan but experienced truth that the light modern patterns make the jewel more beautiful and the wearer more gracefully young4 ,and the husband1 who was last to yield and permit that 8waste of time and money0 called a remodelling1 will be the first to sense the new beauty and importance of the jewel1 and to extend his admiring praise4 ,he will be touched that the old stones1 with their sentimental attachment1 meant enough for them still to be desired as current jewels2 he will be delighted that the remodelling has brought new ornaments at the cost of merely the setting1 not the stones2 and by the effect on the jewel and on the wearer1 he will be entranced4 ,,part ,,five ,the ,story of ,rings and ,famous ,stones ,,chapter #af ,romance of ,rings ,the ,universal ,ring ,of all the jewels of history1 most widespread in time and space1 and upon the human body is the ring4 ,from the crown of the head to the tip of the toes1 the circular band has been an adornment and a symbol4 ,in the ears1 around the neck1 tight about the biceps1 loose about the wrist1 across the chest1 around the waist1 in iron fetters at the ankle in days of old to indicate the slave or in the self-imposed 8slave anklet0 of thin gold today3 men and women have worn rings of grass1 of wood1 of bone1 of metal4 ,but especially upon the fingers there have been all sorts of rings1 for many purposes4 ,the ,magic ,ring ,one of the earliest values found in rings was doubtless magic4 ,this worked in many ways1 according to the beliefs of different times and peoples4 ,simply to put a ring on another person's finger was to bind that person to you--an early magical belief which has endured as a symbol in the engagement and the wedding ring4 ,to protect the wearer against the powers of evil in the world1 rings are adorned with potent gems1 or carved with potent symbols4 ,turn the emerald in a ring on a poised snake1 and the snake was stricken blind1 as the nineteenth-century poet ,moore remembers in ,lalla ,rookh3 ,blinded like serpents when they gaze ,upon the emerald's virgin blaze4 ,the snake itself1 being associated with the sybils and other prophets of old and linked with man in earliest ,bible story and man's most fateful hour1 is also a most potent and frequent device4 ,it might be carved upon the ring1 or the whole ring itself might represent a serpent1 eating its own tail--like the worm ,ouroboros that winds around the world and keeps it from bursting asunder--or with its head nestling upon its body1 watching for the approach of danger4 ,being itself a lurking danger1 the snake obviously was most fit to search out hidden evil4 ,a snake ring of gold with ruby eyes was often on the finger of ,george ,,iv of ,england4 ,divining ,rings ,rings of hieroglyphic symbols1 the sphinx1 or later cabalistic devices1 were used by diviners and seers4 ,sometimes1 to the unwitting eye1 the ring seemed an innocent adornment2 when a soothsayer wished to make use of a magic formula1 a cunningly hinged portion opened to reveal the mystical designs4 ,in the ,middle ,ages1 rings of astrologers and soothsayers multiplied4 ,rings with signs of the zodiac were used to cast a nativity4 ,the powers of numbers were explored and exploited on rings4 ,the word ,,abraxas1 frequent on rings of the time1 is said to have drawn its special power from the number force of the letters1 which add up to #cfe and thus encompass the entire year4 ,perhaps that is why ,leap ,year is said to be unlucky for men4 ,a common design1 born no doubt of the early sphinx1 was the figure of a fantastic monster compounded of many beasts4 ,imagination created many of these hybrid and extremely powerful forms4 ,associated with the ,,abraxas was a creature with the head of a cock1 the body of a man with outstretched hands holding a shield and a whip1 the legs spread out and becoming serpents with darting fangs4 ,especially sought for security against shipwreck was a ring engraved with a human head adorned with an elephant's trunk grasping a trident1 symbol of mastery over the sea4 ,renaissance ,remedy ,rings ,the ,renaissance1 resplendent with rings1 made many to be used as amulets to bring good fortune1 or charms to ward off evil4 ,cellini made several such for his noble patrons2 they seemed1 however1 not to stem the tide of sudden deaths4 ,against various vindictive powers special gems were once more utilized1 jacinth to bring good fortune to voyagers1 sapphires to keep the eyes keen 7as some today employ the humbler carrot71 garnet to soothe the bite of hornet or wasp4 ,the common people1 even more afflicted by the pains of life1 also sought these ringed remedies4 ,the toadstone ring was deemed effective4 ,several actual stones have since been called by this name--no one knows precisely what it was--but the effective ones were generated by the toad1 possibly as nature's compensation for the creature's ugliness4 ,the toadstone was credited1 as the ,oxford ,dictionary puts it1 8with alexipharmic or therapeutic virtues40 ,the best known allusion to the toadstone is in ,shakespeare's ,as ,you ,like it1 when the banished ,duke in the forest reflects upon his state3 ,sweet are the uses of adversity1 ,which like the toad1 ugly and venomous1 ,wears yet a precious jewel in his head4 ,it must by no means be thought that the toadstone is merely a literary fiction4 ,queen ,elizabeth1 on her ,progress in #aeeh1 was given a 8toade stone set in golde40 ,sir ,walter ,scott1 in #ahab1 called it 8sovereign for protecting new-born children and their mothers from the power of the fairies40 ,against fairies1 perhaps the toadstone worked4 ,more questionable was the power of a ring against specific diseases1 although to the edge of this century country folk in rustic parts1 as in back-lying ,suffolk1 wore special rings that were blessed against cramps4 ,a more mechanical method of using rings in witchery or divination has been to pitch or spin them1 or to suspend them and let them swing1 in such a way as to have them indicate ,yes or ,no2 or1 by falling upon haphazardly arranged letters1 spell out a message4 ,visibility ,rings ,legends of rings that make one invisible are universal4 ,an unusually potent one1 we are told in a tale of medieval ,europe1 was given by the ,queen ,mother to ,otnit1 ,king of ,lombardy1 when he set out to seek the hand of the ,soldan's daughter4 ,in addition to making him invisible at will1 the ring always foiled his detractors by indicating to the owner the right road toward his destination4 ,a ring set with a carbuncle possessed the opposite property1 of making one visible in pitch dark4 ,thus1 in ,shakespeare's ,titus ,andronicus when ,martius looks into the deep pit and cries that ,bassianus is lying there1 his comrades ask how he can see1 and he replies3 ,upon his bloody finger he doth wear ,a precious ring that lightens all the hole1 ,which like a taper in some monument ,doth shine upon the dead man's earthy cheeks ,and shows the rugged entrails of the pit4 ,religious ,rings ,the early magician or medicine man1 when he became the priest1 did not relinquish his ring4 ,as far back as we find traces of worship1 we find religious uses of the ring4 ,their pious symbolism was perhaps most fully detailed by ,pope ,innocent ,,iii1 when on ,may #bi1 #abje he sent to ,king ,john of ,england four golden rings each set with a colored stone1 and explained their symbolism in this way3 ,the endless shape of the ring reminds us of eternity1 and that we are all journeyers through time to eternity4 ,the number of rings equals the four virtues that comprise constancy of mind3 justice1 fortitude1 prudence1 and temperance4 ,the metal signifies wisdom from on high1 which is as gold purified by fire4 ,the four stones are an emerald1 green emblem of faith2 a sapphire1 blue emblem of hope2 a garnet1 red emblem of charity2 and a topaz1 bright emblem of good works4 ,the four rings1 the four stones1 the metal1 and the shape1 make ten aspects3 ten is the perfect number1 being the unity of nature plus the trinity of ,god multiplied and fructified by itself4 ,the religious symbolism of rings has not lapsed4 ,even today the ,pope wears the traditional annulus piscatoris1 the ,fisherman's ,ring1 which shows ,st4 ,peter in a boat1 casting a net to haul in the faithful from the waters of the world4 ,clerics of various ranks and orders wear special rings4 ,nuns wear a ring to signify their symbolic marriage to ,jesus4 ,less common today1 but used throughout ,europe for centuries1 is the reliquary ring4 ,this band bears a small cabinet1 case1 compartment1 or box1 usually elaborately carved and bejeweled1 within which was a splinter of the ,true ,cross or the holy relic of a martyred saint4 ,we shall speak later of the wedding ring1 which while a social is also a religious symbol4 ,annually on ,ascension ,day the ,doge of ,venice sets a wedding ring onto a finger of the sea1 to denote that the ,adriatic is servant to the city just as a wife is to her mate4 ,practical ,rings ,from earliest times1 too1 rings have been enlisted for more prosaic duties4 ,signet rings have served romantic ends in history and legend1 as well as supplying the king's or the merchant's identifying seal4 ,noblemen slain in battle have oftentimes been identified by their rings1 which bore the crests of their noble houses4 ,until recently every ,chinese scholar and mandarin wore a ring1 or carried a little ornamented bar of ivory or jade1 topped with intaglio symbols that stamped his name4 ,such stamps are to be seen on many paintings1 and at the end of passages of calligraphy4 ,the practice of sealing envelopes with stamped wax is no longer a widespread western custom1 and even red tape has lost its redder seal2 hence the signet ring1 once most common among men1 has been largely replaced by rings bearing the insignia of a high school or college class or a fraternal order4 ,among other practical uses of finger rings may be mentioned their use as money by the ,gauls and other tribes of northern ,europe4 ,women have had mirrors set in their rings1 to give them constant glimpses of beauty--or a chance for quick repair4 ,in eighteenth-century ,england and later--my grandfather wore one--were rings capped with a little hammer to press the tobacco down in pipes4 ,and there were rings for fighting4 ,roman gladiators added iron rings to the power of their fists1 sometimes even enlarging these with a bar across the entire back of the hand1 held by a leather thong across the palm--predecessors of the infamous 8brass knuckles40 ,poison ,rings ,even more sinister1 though mainly obsolete except in spy stories1 is the murderous poison ring4 ,in some such rings1 the poison could be ejected through a tiny aperture in a point of the design1 as in the lion's claw of a ring of ,cesare ,borgia's4 ,this point would normally be on the side of the ring at the back of the hand1 but it would be slipped around to the palm outstretched to shake the hand of the unsuspecting victim4 ,a firm pressure of greeting became at once goodbye4 ,another of the ,borgias1 ,pope ,alexander ,,vi1 would ask the man he destined to death to open a cabinet for him4 ,he gave the man a key ring1 and as the bar twisted in the massive lock1 a prick injected the poison into the pressing hand4 ,more frequent than these pressing devices1 however1 were rings with a secret compartment or concealed receptacle that could be opened1 to pour out the poison1 so that it might be mixed unnoticed when one was filling a glass of wine for an unwanted guest4 ,this type of ring was also most useful for emergency suicides4 ,when the great ,carthaginian commander ,hannibal was captured by the ,romans in #ahc ,b4,c41 he ended his life by biting into the soft metal cap of his ring which was filled with poison4 ,in #agid the ,french philosopher ,condorcet1 arrested in the ,revolution1 made his exodus from a world in turmoil through the aid of a poison ring4 ,numerous accounts of international espionage in recent wars make it seem that1 as a release from torture and psychological brainwashing1 the suicidal use of the poison ring is not outworn4 ,but many a ring1 originally constructed to conceal a poison1 before it found rest in a museum was used as a conveyor of perfume4 ,a more humdrum use of the ring has been not to end but to mark the passing hours4 ,the first time-keeping ring was a miniature sundial4 ,as soon as escapements were compact enough1 watches were set as the crowns of rings2 ,i have mentioned that two hundred years ago ,mme4 de ,pompadour wore a watch in a gold ring encircled with diamonds4 ,honorary ,rings ,a ring has often been used as a mark1 token1 or reward of distinction or great service4 ,originally for valor in battle1 these rings are now used to mark distinction in many fields4 ,in ,germany for generations1 the greatest actor has worn the ,ifflandring1 which he takes from his hand to bestow upon the performer of the next generation whom he deems his most worthy successor4 ,another noted ring is the ,mozart ,ring1 awarded to those who meritoriously continue the composer's tradition4 ,there are today but three wearers of the ,mozart ,ring3 ,bruno ,walter1 ,herbert von ,karajan1 and ,carl ,boehm4 ,posies and ,lovers' ,rings ,the prettiest rings are those that have been used in courtship4 ,before the brilliant solitaire1 the large diamond that marks the formal engagement1 all sorts of posy rings1 as they were called1 were popular gifts for centuries4 ,an ,english book of #afbd bears the title 8,love's ,garland1 or ,posies for rings1 handkerchiefs1 and gloves1 and such pretty tokens as lovers send their loves40 ,this was in the main a collection of little rhyming remarks or pithy sayings1 to be engraved on rings1 or on the inside of ring bands when the ring itself was decorated with stones in the form of flowers or lovers' knots4 ,a favorite was the ,latin motto ,amor vincit omnia1 7,love conquers all71 which ,chaucer in ,the ,canterbury ,tales put on a bracelet of the ,prioress4 ,but simple ,english phrases abounded on these rings4 8,i am yours0 is blunt enough to serve4 8,my love is true ,to none but you0 might make a suspicious maiden 7but what shy maid in love would question so87 wonder to how many the donor had already shown love that was false4 ,more to be trusted1 perhaps1 is the pious soul that sent the motto3 8,in ,god and thee ,my joy shall be40 ,a wit 7or a gambler7 might complacently have inscribed 8,i cannot show ,the love ,i ,o40 ,a less wary but more learned fellow might proclaim1 inside the ring3 8,let reason rule affection40 ,the practice of having rings engraved with such posies was so common that in ,shakespeare's ,as ,you ,like ,it the melancholy ,jacques taunts ,orlando3 8,you are full of pretty answers4 ,have you not been acquainted with goldsmiths' wives1 and conned them out of rings80 ,i quote ,shakespeare not because he is the most given to such references1 but because he is the best known of the many writers in whose works they abound3 jewels in jeweled phrases4 ,in other forms than posies1 rings carry the language of love4 ,they may1 of course1 in engraved letters or letters shaped of stones1 give the initials or the name of the beloved4 ,or letters may record a significant event in the course of the courtship1 as when a cryptically boastful ,frenchman set a ring with the letters ,,lacd1 which pronounced in ,french sound 8,elle a cd0--8,she has yielded60 ,more subtly and more sentimentally such announcements may be made1 moments recorded1 or feelings expressed1 through the initial letters of the gems4 ,thus a beloved named ,adele might be given a ring with stones set in the following order3 amethyst1 diamond1 emerald1 lapis lazuli1 emerald2 the first letters of the names of the stones spell her name4 ,a favorite such token is one arranged so that the initial letters of the stones spell 8,regard ,love02 hence1 these have sometimes been called regard rings4 ,rings have been used to express sentiment less soft1 as well2 politically minded ,irish1 in ,revolution times1 were wearing rings that spelled ,repeal4 ,for those with the enthusiasm and the funds1 almost an entire alphabet of gem stones can be used4 ,omitting duplicates1 one may run along1 to spell one's message1 with amber1 bloodstone1 carnelian1 diamond1 emerald1 fluorite1 garnet1 hyacinth1 indicolite1 jasper1 kunzite1 lapis lazuli1 moonstone1 nephrite1 opal1 pearl1 quartz1 ruby1 sapphire1 turquoise1 variscite1 willemite1 zircon4 ,this fashion of conveying one's sentiments has never grown obsolete and is continually renewed4 ,the ,nuptial ,ring ,when courtship reaches the more definite stage of betrothal1 rings are still the order of the day4 ,as early as the second century ,b4 ,c4 the ,romans1 whose marriages were not love matches but family affairs1 gave formal engagement rings4 ,a study of ,shakespeare reveals forty-five references to rings and jewels1 eleven being of ,queen ,elizabeth's favorite1 the pearl4 ,for example1 betrothal rings are exchanged by ,troilus and ,cressida2 and such an exchange builds the sunrise comedy scene at the close of ,the ,merchant of ,venice4 ,for friends1 the fede 7faithful7 ring developed1 a band of gold representing clasped hands4 ,for lovers1 the gimmal or gemmal1 the twin ring1 was popular2 this consisted of two rings intimately intertwined1 which ingeniously came apart so that each lover could wear half of the pair4 ,climax of the deft pursuit and fond allure1 the wedding ring has always been a treasured symbol4 ,an early ecclesiastic told why3 8,the form of the ring being circular1 that is1 round and without end1 importeth thus1 that mutual love and heartfelt affection shall roundly flow from one to the other1 as in a circle1 continuously and forever40 ,although the wedding ring for a long time was invariably of gold1 fashions in recent years have been changing4 ,our grandmothers were proud to wear a plain wide band4 ,after the ,first ,world ,war1 when gold gravitated toward ,fort ,knox1 the bands grew narrower and platinum wedding rings were introduced4 ,the gold itself1 instead of a plain band1 might be drawn as though the ring were fashioned of strands1 or hammered into tiny bars with corners around the circle1 in various modernistic patterns4 ,the practice also began of using diamonds in wedding rings2 never one large brilliant1 outthrust like the happy engagement solitaire1 but a row of smaller stones inset1 almost flush with the band4 ,today the plain wide wedding band is circling back into favor1 along with the olden practice of putting a ring on the finger not only of the bride but of the groom4 ,it is a mutual compact4 ,in ancient times1 much more elaborate rings were used for the ceremony1 sometimes so large that immediately after the wedding they were put aside1 replaced by smaller rings1 and put on again only at the burial day4 ,among the ,jews the ring might have an adornment in the shape of a tower1 and be inscribed with the ,hebrew words for ,good luck1 ,mazul-tov4 ,less ,solemn ,marriage ,rings ,among the country folk in late medieval times1 marriage was sometimes a quickly arranged affair1 and rush rings were often used for rushed marriages4 ,the rush ring weddings1 at which a 8hedge-priest0 officiated1 were intended neither to be legal nor to endure4 ,some more coarsely cynical ceremonies were actually held with the assistance of the town butcher1 with the bride and groom standing on opposite sides of a side of beef1 being joined together with the traditional words1 8till death do us part40 ,among more playful frolics was the practice of the bachelors among the ,renaissance ,italians1 and the ,italianate ,englishmen1 of wearing an engagement ring on the hat or in the ear1 so as to invite and incite the maidens4 ,in ,england1 the rings were more often confined to the hand1 and a language of the fingers developed4 ,a ring on the first 7little7 finger indicated that the man was seeking a wife2 on the second 7which we now call the third finger7 that he had found her2 on the third1 that the knot had been tied2 and on the fourth1 that he had every intention of remaining a bachelor4 ,similarly1 for the woman3 first finger1 not keeping company2 second finger1 engaged2 third1 married2 and fourth1 intending to die a maid4 ,it will be noted that in this system the wedding ring did not appear on what is now the usual finger4 ,and indeed it was only gradually that what we now call the third finger of the left hand became the permanent choice for the bond of matrimony4 ,those who must have reasons have found three for this choice4 ,the first reason is physiological4 ,it developed when various theories of the blood circulated freely1 before the blood itself was known to circulate4 ,the ,romans spoke of the vena amoris1 the vein of love1 but the idea was earlier expressed by the ,greeks1 who credited it to the ,egyptians4 ,this vein of love1 they declared1 connected the third finger of the left hand directly with the heart1 which is the seat1 as everyone knows1 of the tender passion4 ,the second reason is the product of logical elimination4 ,the analysis was made by ,macrobius1 a ,roman commentator of the late fourth century4 ,the thumb1 ,macrobius declared1 is too busy to be set apart for special dedication4 ,because of the shape of the hand1 the forefinger and the little finger are only half protected4 ,the middle finger 7being in his time used by mothers as a practical suppository and by doctors for anal exploration7 was too opprobrious4 ,this left only what he called the pronubus1 the one 8for the nuptial10 which has ever since been called the ring finger4 ,on the left hand1 to indicate the woman's subjection1 it is the engagement finger4 ,the third explanation grows out of old church practice4 ,the bride was blessed 8in the name of the ,father and the ,son and the ,holy ,ghost40 ,starting with the thumb1 if the bridegroom touched one finger with each name1 he would complete the trinity with the middle finger1 then put the ring on the next one4 ,that finger is the husband's to whom the woman owes allegiance next to ,god4 ,for a long time1 it should be mentioned1 the wedding ring was worn on the right hand2 sometimes on the little finger1 as the least obtrusive2 while in many eastern lands it has been worn upon the thumb4 ,counting ,fingers ,in his ,treatise of ,spousals written in #afhj1 ,henry ,swinburne declared that the wedding ring 8is to be worn on the fourth finger of the left hand1 next unto the little finger40 ,since his time there has been confusion in the counting4 ,if we name the fingers1 the matter is simple enough3 holding the arms outstretched1 palms down1 and starting from the inside1 we have the thumb1 the index finger 7or pointer or forefinger71 the middle finger1 the ring finger1 and the little finger 7or1 to use the word borrowed from children1 the pinkie74 ,numbers complicated the picture4 ,swinburne counted the thumb as the first finger4 ,the ,elizabethans a century before him1 as we noted in their practice of indicating their attitude toward matrimony1 counted the little finger as the first4 ,the common system of counting today starts not with the thumb1 but next to it4 ,thus the index finger is the first2 and the engagement and the wedding ring adorn the third finger of the left hand4 ,perhaps it is wiser to speak of the fingers by their names4 ,the important thing is that they be fitly adorned4 ,memorial ,rings ,lighthearted ceremonies were no more than flyspecks on a pattern of permanent matrimony1 with no frills of separation or easy divorce4 ,marriages were 8made in heaven02 their earthly aspect ended only at the grave4 ,a married couple had a long time to be fond of or at least to grow used to one another4 ,death made a great gap in the pattern of family life1 so that it came to be marked by a memorial ring4 ,the more pious1 indeed1 did not await the fearful summons to wear its grim reminder2 many wore mortuary rings that1 like the skeleton at the feast1 kept their final fate solemnly in the minds of the living4 ,these might be shaped with a death's head1 or open to reveal a skeleton or a crucifix4 ,or they might present a somber motto3 8,breathe pain1 death gain10 or the forthright counsel1 8,live to die40 ,the favorite stone for such rings1 of course1 was jet4 ,many a will provided money for the purchase of memorial rings by family or friends1 thus hoping to keep the dead one alive in thoughts4 8,bind me to your hearts with bands of gold40 ,when ,anne of ,cleves1 divorced wife of ,henry ,,viii1 died in #aeeg1 she left money for memorial rings4 ,in #afaf ,william ,shakespeare left twenty-six shillings sixpence apiece to ,hamnet ,sadler1 ,william ,reynolds and 8to my fellows10 the actors ,john ,hemynge1 ,richard ,burbage1 and ,henry ,cundell1 to buy them rings in his memory4 ,he left no other jewels1 no books1 and his second-best bed to his wife4 ,while the #bej odd rings of ,england's last ,king ,henry were probably seldom equalled for one person1 a more modest but more representative listing was given1 in #afdi1 of the rings of a country lady4 ,she possessed1 among other jewels1 a toadstone ring1 two ,turkies 7turquoises71 six thumb rings1 three alderman's seals1 five gemmels and four death's heads4 ,always1 in every period and every guise1 the realm of jewelry has been marked by the reign of the ring4 ,,chapter #ag ,some ,famous ,stones ,history and fiction throughout the ages find mystery1 glamour and romance in the stories of great jewels4 ,the ,count of ,monte ,cristo1 one of the most successful of all romances1 has its hero achieve his goal by finding a hidden treasure of great jewels4 ,the ,queen's ,necklace1 another of ,dumas' masterpieces1 centers its intrigue around a necklace fraudulently secured1 upon which hangs the evidence of ,marie ,antoinette's fidelity4 ,or one thinks of a marauding foreigner1 plucking the great emerald from the eye socket of an ,orient god--then followed1 as in ,dunsany's grisly play ,a ,night at an ,inn1 by the great stone god itself1 come to crush the desecrator and regain its vision4 ,the ,black ,prince's ,ruby ,the historical stories tell fascinating tales of changes of ownership1 as the gems endure across the dying centuries4 ,in the state crown of ,britain1 guarded in the ,tower of ,london1 is a stone called the ,black ,prince's ruby4 ,it belonged1 when first we hear of it1 in #acfg1 to the ,king of ,granada4 ,don ,pedro1 ,king of ,castille1 slew him and took the gem4 ,but ,edward ,,iii of ,england1 the monarch who established the ,order of the ,garter1 had sent ,don ,pedro some #e1jjj men2 in thanks for these services1 the triumphant ,spaniard sent the ruby to ,edward's son1 the ,black ,prince4 ,the ruby was pierced at the top1 as though it had1 back in its unknown past1 been part of a fabulous necklace of an ,orient potentate2 today1 the hole is filled with a small ruby set in gold4 ,the ,black ,prince1 dying before his father1 left the stone to his son1 who became ,king ,richard ,,ii in #acgg and was deposed by ,henry ,,iv in #acii and probably murdered in the very ,tower where the ruby now rests4 ,henry ,v1 to whom it came in his turn1 wore the stone at the ,battle of ,agincourt1 where against great odds he defeated the ,french4 ,after that1 it was deemed safer to leave the gem in ,london2 there it became part of the crown jewels4 ,but the crown jewels were scattered by the ,puritans in #afdb1 after ,cromwell became ,lord ,protector4 ,with the ,restoration1 the ,black ,prince's ruby was returned to the crown and has remained unharmed since--save that modern methods of examination have revealed that it is not a ruby at all1 only a 8balas ruby10 that is1 a spinel4 ,other ,precious ,stones ,the ,stuart sapphire1 a great oval an inch and a half by an inch with a hole near the top1 can be removed from the royal crown and used as a pendant4 ,this sapphire1 after ,james ,,ii was deposed by the ,bloodless ,revolution of #afhh1 was carried away from ,england by the ,young ,pretender1 who--when he grew older and more sage--bequeathed the sapphire1 along with other ,stuart relics1 to ,george ,,iii of ,england4 ,since then1 it has rested quietly in the crown4 ,other precious stones have had their historic moments or movements4 ,catherine the ,great of ,russia sent thousands of workers into the ,ural mines to hunt for amethysts4 ,some of ,napoleon's gifts to the ,empress ,josephine were of emeralds and pearls4 ,the ,american ,museum of ,natural ,history holds among its treasures a great star sapphire weighing #efc carats4 ,the ,crystal ,palace ,almost impatiently1 however1 when great gems are discussed1 everyone turns from the other precious stones to talk of diamonds4 ,at the ,crystal ,palace ,exhibition in ,london1 the pride of ,prince ,albert in #ahea1 stones of all sorts were on view4 ,the collection of gems from ,india1 the great subcontinent that was soon to change the ,kingdom of ,great ,britain and ,ireland into an ,empire1 was stupendous4 ,queen ,victoria noted in her diary3 8,the girdle of nineteen emeralds is beautiful1 all set round with diamonds and fringed with pearls4 ,the rubies are even more wonderful and one is the biggest in the world 444 ,i shall certainly make them ,crown ,jewels40 ,among the pieces exhibited by the lapidaries of ,calcutta were strange creations never seen in the western world before3 gowries 78blackamoors' teeth071 golden gothas1 ferozahs1 a gallobund set with diamonds1 and other wonders that have since fallen out of the dictionary4 ,there were also educational exhibits1 new and world-shaking inventions like ,nasmyth's steam-propelled engine1 the ,folkestone express locomotive1 and ,mc,cormack's reaping machine from ,america4 ,but the gaping crowd passed by all these prizes to gather and stare before the diamonds4 ,the ,diamonds ,there were diamonds for which there should have been automation to count the value4 ,the great collection of ,henry ,thomas ,hope and his son was displayed1 all the glory of their ,hope chest1 including the mysterious blue stone that came to be called the ,hope diamond4 ,there on white velvet lay the great ,black ,diamond of ,bahia1 weighing #cej carats1 so hard that no one had been able to shape it with facets4 ,and there1 not far from a replica of the ship that had just brought it from ,india1 was shown for the first time in ,england what the catalogue called 8the great diamond of ,runjeet ,singh called the ,mountain of ,light or the ,koh-in-noor40 ,this is what the millions came to see4 7,they were disappointed by the sight1 for the diamond had been poorly cut and did not reveal all its brilliance47 ,the ,kohinoor lay on a velvet cushion in an iron bird cage on an iron pedestal4 ,when the doors of the ,crystal ,palace closed each night1 wheels began to turn1 and the bird cage descended into the pedestal4 ,safe from all the itching fingers of international thiefdom1 the ,kohinoor rested in its cage4 ,the ,kohinoor ,mountain of light6 ,the ,kohinoor4 ,first worn in the crown1 perhaps1 of a great ruler in ,india five thousand years ago4 ,the ,koh-i-nur1 or ,mountain of ,light1 was next heard of as a great companion to the ,darya-i-,nor1 the ,sea of ,light1 in the scabbard of ,afrasiab around #c1jjj ,b4,c4 ,such are the fabulous stones of ancient times1 which ,tennyson called --,jewels five words long1 ,that on the stretched forefinger of all ,time ,sparkle forever4 ,we are told that the great diamond weighed #gjj carats2 but1 when its modern career began1 it had been severed and weighed only #ahf carats4 ,in #acjd ,a4,d4 the stone was in the family of the ,rajah of ,malwa in ,india from whence most of the early diamonds had come4 ,in the early sixteenth century1 it was seized as a trophy of war by ,beber1 first of the ,mogul emperors4 ,this long and mighty line1 including ,shah ,jehan who built the ,taj ,mahal for the jewel of his harem1 preserved the great diamond4 ,jehan set it as one of the eyes of his ,peacock ,throne4 ,through the long years of the ,mogul ,empire1 the legend grew that he who owns this diamond rules the world4 ,but all dynasties fall and in #agci ,mohammed ,shah1 ,mogul of ,delhi1 was conquered by ,nadir ,shah of ,persia4 ,although the defeated ,mogul managed to keep possession of his diamond he could not keep control of his harem4 ,in a group of women there is bound to be one who curries favor with the champion1 and one of ,mohammed ,shah's harem whispered to the ,persian king that the diamond lay hidden in her master's turban4 ,the etiquette of the day gave the shrewd monarch his opening4 ,the treaty of peace having been signed1 the ,persian invited the ,mogul to dinner and there1 admiring his guest's turban1 suggested that they exchange4 ,it was impossible to refuse4 ,in his room1 unwinding the silken yards1 ,nadir ,shah saw the great diamond4 ,it lay on the floor1 an enormous cone-shaped gem1 and he exclaimed 8,mountain of ,light60--,koh-i-nur6--thus giving the stone its name4 ,the legendary power of the stone declined1 for it changed hands more times than history records4 ,nadir ,shah was murdered by one of his bodyguards1 whose most ingenious tortures could not wring the whereabouts of the diamond from the dead king's son4 ,it passed on through two generations1 until ,shah ,suja was forced to flee for asylum to the court of ,runjit ,sing1 the ,lion of the ,punjab1 at ,lahore 7now part of ,pakistan74 ,the price of ,suja's safety was the delivery of the ,kohinoor to ,runjit ,sing4 ,and here it was in #ahdi1 when the ,east ,india ,company and the ,british took control4 ,as partial indemnity for the damages of the ,sikh wars1 the ,company took the stone1 presenting it to ,queen ,victoria the next year at the celebration of the #bejth anniversary of the ,founding of the ,east ,india ,company by ,queen ,elizabeth ,i4 ,after its exhibition at the ,crystal ,palace1 ,queen ,victoria decided to have the ,kohinoor recut to improve its sparkle4 ,she decided on brilliant faceting4 ,a four-horse-power steam engine was set up in the workshop of the crown jewelers to turn the cutting wheel4 ,prince ,albert set the stone on the mill1 and the ,duke of ,wellington started the wheel4 ,thirty-eight days later1 ,queen ,victoria was given the new-cut diamond1 now weighing only #ajh carats but superbly sparkling4 ,as the ,queen's power grew--in #ahgf she became the first ruler of the ,british ,empire1 on whose flag the sun never set--the legend of the diamond changed3 only queens could wear the gem and prosper4 ,from ,victoria it went to her daughter-in-law1 ,queen ,alexandria1 and it is now part of the treasure of the royal ladies of the ,british throne4 ,tavernier ,jean ,baptiste ,tavernier was the first of the great travelers who went to the ,orient in search of precious stones4 ,on his voyages he saw and described many stones that have since been lost to history4 ,they may have been recut1 by illegitimate owners1 into smaller stones1 or they may be resting in some hidden treasure store4 ,the ,florentine ,among these lost stones is the ,florentine1 a clear yellow diamond of #acg carats1 which ,tavernier saw among the treasures of the ,duke of ,tuscany in #afeg4 ,legends say that ,charles the ,bold1 ,duke of ,burgundy1 was wearing the stone in #adgf1 when he fell in battle4 ,picked up by a peasant as an attractive pebble1 the stone was sold for a florin2 after various adventures it fell into the hands of the ,medici4 ,later1 when the ,grand ,duke of ,tuscany married ,maria ,theresa of ,austria1 the ,florentine became part of the ,austrian crown jewels4 ,it went into exile1 after ,world ,war ,i1 with the imperial family1 and half a hundred rumors since have set it in as many hands4 ,the ,great ,mogul ,tavernier was probably the only ,european who ever saw the ,great ,mogul4 ,it was shown him by ,aurangzeb1 sixth ,mogul ,emperor of ,hindustani1 who had usurped the throne in #afeh and imprisoned his father1 the great ,shah ,jehan4 ,tavernier said it weighed #bhj carats and resembled half an egg sliced through the middle4 ,he was told it had weighed #ghg carats in the rough1 but had been so badly cut that the jeweler1 instead of being paid1 had forfeited all his fortune4 7,such were the risks conscientious jewelers ran67 ,when the ,persians sacked ,delhi in #agci1 the ,great ,mogul may have been among their loot4 ,it probably still adorns a beauty in ,iran--unless it turned up in the western world as the ,orloff ,diamond4 ,the ,orloff ,similar in shape to the ,great ,mogul but weighing 7one can hardly say 8only07 #aii carats1 the ,orloff was among the more than #b1ejj diamonds owned by ,catherine the ,great1 ruler of all the ,russias4 ,one story says the gem was stolen by a ,french grenadier from the eye socket of a ,hindu idol and hidden in a self-inflicted leg wound4 ,such accounts recur in tales of many jewels4 ,another story says that it is one of the stones resulting from the cleavage of the great rough diamond that also produced the ,kohinoor4 ,at any rate1 it was purchased in ,holland in #aggd by the ,russian ,count ,gregory ,orloff for #djj1jjj rubles 7#dej1jjj74 ,the ,count had been a favorite of ,catherine's2 she had made him a prince and the commander-in-chief of her armies4 ,the ,court did not mind--or could not help--the number of ,catherine's lovers2 but she seemed on the verge of actually marrying the ,count4 ,her entourage therefore set their wits to work1 and ,orloff fell from favor4 ,for ,catherine's name day1 when others at ,court presented the customary bouquets1 ,orloff gave her the diamond4 ,his family's fortune had been pledged for it1 but it failed to re-open ,catherine's arms to him4 ,she never wore the diamond but had it mounted in her sceptre1 right under the double eagle4 ,under that symbol of imperial power1 it presumably rests in the ,kremlin today4 ,a more prosaic version of the ,count's enterprise states that he assured himself of heart balm by selling the diamond to ,catherine for #ij1jjj plus a #d1jjj life annuity4 ,the ,shah of ,persia ,another diamond reported by ,tavernier and now reposing in the ,kremlin is an #hh-;carat bar-shaped stone of finest quality4 ,it has a tiny furrow cut in it1 presumably to secure the cord by which ,tavernier1 in #affe1 saw it suspended in front of the ,mogul throne4 ,it also has engraved on it three names and dates4 ,the first name is that of an ,indian prince1 ,bourhan-,nizam ,shah ,,ii2 the date1 the year #ajjj in the ,mohammedan count1 the western #aeia4 ,the second engraving1 in the western year #afea1 sets this gem as another among the treasures of the great ,mogul ,shah ,jehan4 ,the third date is western #ahbd2 the owner1 the ,shah of ,persia4 ,the ,persians possessed the jewel until #ahhi1 when a ,teheran mob slew the ,russian ambassador1 the thirty-four-year-old playwright ,griboyedov4 ,as a sign of their regret1 the ,persian royal house sent the ,shah ,diamond to ,russia1 where it has remained4 ,the ,great ,table ,another stone that ,tavernier was the only ,european to look upon is the ,great ,table ,diamond1 sometimes called the ,white ,tavernier4 ,this #bdb-;carat stone is described by the ,french traveler3 8,when at ,golconda in #afdb1 ,i was shown this stone1 and it is the largest diamond ,i have ever seen in ,india in the hands of merchants4 ,the owner allowed me to make a model of it in lead1 which ,i sent to ,surat to two of my friends1 telling them of its beauty and the price1 namely1 #ejj1jjj rupees4 ,i received an order from them1 that if it was clean and of fine water1 ,i should offer #djj1jjj rupees2 but it was impossible to purchase it at that price40 ,the asking price was about #bhj1jjj1 for want of which the ,great ,table has totally disappeared4 ,the table cut--which was virtually discontinued after #aebj1 when the rose cut grew popular--sliced the gem into a flat slab1 sometimes so thin that the diamond was used as a 8portrait stone10 set over a miniature painting4 ,the ,blue ,tavernier ,one diamond that ,tavernier brought back from his travels was a blue diamond1 roughly heart-shaped1 of #aab carats4 ,he sold it in #affh to ,louis ,,xiv of ,france4 ,it was recut as a slightly pointed drop1 being reduced in the process to #fh carats4 ,louis ,,xv set the diamond in his ,order of the ,golden ,fleece4 ,it was also worn by ,louis ,,xvi but was among the treasures of the royal house that disappeared at the beginning of the ,french ,revolution in the great crown jewel robbery4 ,of these1 only the ,regent and the ,sancy were recovered4 ,the fate of the ,blue ,tavernier is in doubt4 ,one story runs that the insignia of the ,order of the ,golden ,fleece were smuggled to ,england1 where later this diamond was recut4 ,a one-carat blue diamond1 last heard of in ,london1 is supposed to have come from the tip4 ,a second stone is a blue drop diamond that came into the possession of the ,duke of ,brunswick4 ,the third and largest cut is the ,hope ,diamond4 ,the ,hope ,without any guarantee of this past history1 ,henry ,thomas ,hope in #ahcf bought a superb blue diamond of #dd carats4 ,blue diamonds are exceedingly rare2 the nearest in weight to the ,hope ,diamond are the ,brunswick diamond1 mentioned just above1 of almost #ad carats1 and a #ce-;carat stone1 the ,wittlesbach1 exhibited in ,london in #aicj4 ,the ,hope ,diamond was willed by ,lady ,hope1 in #ahhg1 to her daughter's son on condition that he adopt the family name4 ,he became ,lord ,francis ,pelham ,clinton ,hope4 ,in #ahid he married the ,american actress ,may ,yohe who wore the diamond when she sang in the music halls4 ,it is said to have been part of the 8stage jewelry0 listed among her belongings when her trunks were held for a lodging debt1 but it was returned to the ,hope family4 ,in #aijh the gem was bought for #djj1jjj by ,abdul ,hamid1 ,sultan of ,turkey4 ,with the breath of revolution on his neck1 the ,sultan three years later sent it to ,paris to be sold4 ,it became part of the famed collection of ,mrs4 ,edward ,b4 ,mc,lean1 whose gems dazzled ,washington1 ,d4 ,c41 for almost forty years4 ,after her death1 it was bought in #aidi by ,harry ,winston1 noted diamond merchant of ,new ,york4 ,the ,jehan ,akbar ,shah ,this diamond deserves distinction as the second great eye of the ,peacock ,throne of the ,mogul ,emperors4 ,it was engraved with the names of ,shah ,akbar and his grandson1 ,shah ,jehan4 ,it weighed #aaf carats4 ,after ,shah ,jehan was deposed by his son in #afff1 the stone disappeared4 ,precisely two hundred years later it was shown in ,constantinople as the ,shepherd stone4 ,recognized by the inscriptions1 the diamond was bought by an ,english merchant4 ,in ,london1 it was recut to #ga carats1 losing the inscriptions and sold to the ,gaekwar of ,baroda4 ,the ,cullinan ,the largest diamond ever discovered was found in #aije in the ,premier ,mine in ,south ,africa1 which had been opened by ,sir ,thomas ,cullinan4 ,the rough stone1 weighing #c1ajf carats1 about one and a third pounds1 was bought by the ,transvaal ,government and presented to ,king ,edward ,,vii of ,england1 in #aijg1 on his sixty-sixth birthday4 ,the ,cullinan was sent to ,amsterdam to be cut4 ,there1 after months of study1 the expert set the cleaving blade on the diamond and tapped it with a heavy rod4 ,the blade broke4 ,on the second try1 the expert fainted4 ,he recovered to find the great diamond split precisely as planned4 ,out of the great ,cullinan came nine major gems and ninety-six smaller brilliants4 ,the greatest of the cuttings1 called the ,great ,star of ,africa1 weighs #ecj carats1 and is the largest cut diamond in the world4 ,it adorns the sceptre of the ,british ,empire4 ,the other large stones are also part of the ,british ,crown jewels4 ,the ,excelsior ,mention should be made of the ,excelsior1 a diamond of #iie carats1 found in the ,orange ,free ,state in #ahic and1 until the discovery of the ,cullinan1 the largest diamond known4 ,the ,excelsior was noticed by accident1 seen by a native in a shovelful of gravel he was pitching onto a truck4 ,the stone was cut in #aijc by the same firm1 ,asscher of ,amsterdam1 that later cut the ,cullinan2 but the cutting is unique in that all the resulting stones--twenty-one gems--are either pear-shaped or marquise4 ,the ,regent ,the ,regent ,diamond1 like the ,blue ,tavernier1 was stolen from the ,french royal treasures at the brink of the ,revolution1 but unlike the others this gem was recovered and restored to its place in ,france4 ,a superb stone1 the diamond weighed #daj carats in #agja1 when it was picked up by a slave in the ,partial ,mines of ,india4 ,the slave1 following storied precedent1 gashed his leg and hid the stone in the bandage4 ,he limped his way to the seacoast4 ,there he offered to share the proceeds of the sale of the stone with a sea captain2 but unfortunately the slave did not survive the rigors of the ocean voyage1 and the ship's arrival in ,bombay found the captain in sole possession of the stone4 ,from an ,indian merchant it was bought by ,thomas ,pitt1 then ,governor of ,madras1 and sent to ,england to be cut4 ,political enemies bruited abroad that he had obtained the stone by questionable means2 though they never got to the core of the matter1 he became known as ,diamond ,pitt4 ,he sold the diamond in #agag to the ,duke of ,orleans1 then ,regent of ,france1 for about #ejj1jjj1 which kept the family in affluence through several generations4 ,but at any moment in the political careers of the great ,english statesman1 ,william ,pitt the ,elder and ,william ,pitt the ,younger--major figures in the struggles with the ,american colonies and the ,american ,revolution--there might be dragged out1 as a political target1 that family skeleton about the coming of the ,pitt ,diamond to ,england4 ,the ,pitt ,diamond1 now renamed the ,regent1 was cut into a cushion-shaped brilliant of #adj carats1 a superbly sparkling specimen of a great gem deftly handled4 ,marie ,antoinette used it to adorn a large black velvet hat she favored1 borrowing it from the crown of ,louis ,,xv4 ,but it remained with the royal jewels until they were all stolen in #agib4 ,found in a ,paris garret1 the diamond came to ,napoleon1 who pawned it to secure funds for his triumphant campaigns4 ,after using the stone in this fashion several times1 he had it set into the hilt of his ceremonial coronation sword4 ,when ,napoleon went into exile1 the stone accompanied his second wife1 ,marie ,louise1 to the ,chateau of ,blois4 ,her father1 the ,emperor of ,austria1 returned it to ,louis ,,xviii4 ,the diamond shuttled between the ,napoleons and the ,louis until ,france became a republic4 ,when the ,french crown jewels were auctioned in #ahhf1 the ,regent ,diamond was withheld from the sale4 ,by lying quietly behind a stone panel of a chateau in ,chambord1 the ,regent escaped capture by the ,germans in the ,second ,world ,war4 ,it is now on display in the ,louvre where1 like the ,kohinoor cage at the ,crystal ,palace1 its case sinks nightly into a burglar-proof vault4 ,the ,sancy ,the ,sancy and the ,regent are the only jewels of the ,french royal treasure that were recovered after the robbery of #agib4 ,legend has confused the early story of the ,sancy stone with that of the ,florentine ,diamond1 but it has had enough vicissitudes to make an historic tale4 ,a superb and fiery stone of #ed carats1 one of the first ever cut in symmetrical facets1 the diamond was bought in ,constantinople1 about #aegj1 by the ,french ,ambassador to ,turkey1 the ,seigneur de ,sancy4 ,back at the court of his king1 vicious and vain ,henry ,,iii1 ,sancy was constrained to lend the diamond to his monarch1 who set it in the cap he wore to cover his baldness4 ,the shrewd successor to the throne1 ,henry ,,iv1 made ,sancy the ,minister of ,finance1 and the again borrowed diamond was used as security to raise troops4 ,the stone was sent to the moneylenders in ,metz2 but the messenger was waylaid and slain4 ,the diamond vanished4 ,sure of the man's loyalty1 ,sancy recovered the body and had an autopsy performed2 and from the stomach of the faithful servant the diamond was recovered4 ,wary of further loans1 ,sancy sold the diamond to ,queen ,elizabeth ,i of ,england4 ,it stayed with the royal house until ,charles ,i was beheaded4 ,the ,earl of ,worcester1 to whom ,charles' widow had entrusted it1 returned it when the monarchy was restored4 ,in the second ,revolution in #afhh1 ,james ,,ii took it to ,france4 ,there1 after a time1 it passed from the royal exile to his diamond-hungry host1 ,louis ,,xiv4 ,again the gem stayed with a royal house until the turbulence of revolution2 the ,sancy1 along with the other royal treasures1 was stolen in the tumultuous days of #agib4 ,for almost forty years the ,sancy's story is hidden4 ,in #ahbh it turned up in hands that sold it to ,prince ,demidoff of ,russia1 husband of the ,princess ,mathilde1 niece of ,napoleon ,bonaparte4 ,many of this ,princess' jewels were designed by ,louis ,franois ,cartier1 whose creations she made popular at the court of the ,empress ,eugnie1 thus giving impetus to the young ,house of ,cartier4 ,but at this point the story of the ,sancy ,diamond takes a double path4 ,sold to the ,maharajah of ,patiala and set in platinum1 it remains part of the treasure of the land from which it first came4 ,so goes the story4 ,but either the ,sancy diamond or a mysterious twin is worn by the former ,nancy ,langhorne of ,virginia1 now ,lady ,astor4 ,what further wars such gems may survive1 and what owners they may be cherished by1 in the coming centuries1 future historians may tell4 ,out of the ,earth ,from the dull earth comes the bright sparkle of the diamond4 ,early prospectors1 as gold-hunters panned the streams1 sifted the surface gravel4 ,when likely spots were located1 men and machines began to dig4 ,at ,kimberly1 the mine shaft is more than #cejj feet deep4 ,one diamond may be secured for each #ba million parts of ore2 but gem diamonds in the larger sizes are so much more rare than industrials or gems in the smaller sizes that more than #bej tons must be mined to yield a stone that can be cut and polished into a one-carat gem4 ,a purchaser1 at the end of this arduous searching1 must see to the four ,c's of diamond value4 ,first the weight in carats4 ,although more labor goes into the preparing of five one-carat gems than of one five-carat gem1 the single large stone is worth more than the sum of the five4 ,comparatively few rough diamonds can be effectively cut into large-carat stones4 ,second1 the clarity4 ,a flawless gem1 by official standard1 is one in which no imperfection is visible to the trained eye under tenth-power magnification4 ,such a stone can be shaped to fullest brilliance4 ,third1 the color4 ,rarest is the pure colorless diamond1 together with the flawless blue4 ,slightly yellowish tints are in disfavor1 but red again is extremely rare and highly valued4 ,of all1 the colorless1 or white1 diamond1 is most likely to be richly responsive to light4 ,fourth1 the cut4 ,not merely how well does the particular cut--brilliant1 marquise1 rose1 and the rest--become the diamond2 but1 whatever the cutting1 how well was it made8 ,that is the pertinent question4 ,and perhaps there should be added to this the matter of the setting--the degree to which the finished jewel sets off1 displays and enhances the precious stone4 ,when these qualities are properly present1 when a choice gem in a fine jewel adorns a fair lady1 then one may truly say1 in every sense1 that all beholders are privileged to look upon beauty in jewels4 ,transcriber's ,note3 ,on page #bba1 the line 8revolution1 there is no need to wear more elaborate jewels0 was erroneously printed as the first line of the page4 ,it has been moved to the correct place4 ,a few other typos have been corrected without further note4