,ela/ic & ,non-,ela/ic ,n>r[ ,fabrics ,by ,,samuel ,,br[n & a ,*apt] on ,n>r[ ,fabrics ,made on ,knitt+ ,ma*9es ,by ,,william ,,davis1 ,m4,a4 ,?is book orig9ally appe>$ s]ially 9 ,,textile ,,_w & has be5 republi%$ 9 ?is =m at ! urg5t reque/ ( _m read]s4 ,,bragdon1 ,,"l ,,nagle ,,co4 ,,textile ,,publi%]s #ccd ,,f\r? ,,av5ue ,,new ,,york ,copyright #aibc ,,bragdon1 ,,"l ,,nagle ,,co4 ,new ,york ,ela/ic & ,non-,ela/ic ,n>r[ ,fabrics ,,*apt] ,i4 ,gr[? ( ,webb+ ,bus9ess--,attempts to ,sub/itute ,cut ,products = ,individually ,wov5 ,webs ,made on ,gang ,looms--,loom ,sett+ to ,r$uce ,vibration--,capacity ( ,looms & ,explanation ( ! ,v>i\s ,motions ,t ,are ,employ$ ,:5 we ?9k ( ! discov]y ( rubb] vulcanization & ! effect x has _h on _w affairs our m9ds naturally turn to ! big ?+s1 su* z ! automobile indu/ry ) its millions ( rubb] tires 9 con/ant use4 ,^! may cr[d f our notice a ?\s& & "o small] ?+s ( importance4 ,x is difficult to fully realize h[ _m com=ts & conv5i5ces we d]ive f rubb] & n ! lea/ among !m is ! multiplicity ( wov5 fabrics :i* are us$ bo? = com=t & conv5i5ce 9 a v>iety ( ways & = innum]able purposes4 ,x is n only 9 su* ?+s z g>t]s & susp5d]s1 ) :i* our m9ds may fir/ associate ela/ic webs1 t ^! fabrics are us$1 b !y f9d employm5t 9 a v>iety ( o!r products1 :i* are gr[+ m num]\s all ! "t4 ,today !re are 9 op]ation ?\s&s ( looms & braid]s1 9 :i* _m millions ( doll>s are inve/$ & 9 ! op]ation ( :i*1 toge!r ) complem5t>y ma*9]y1 ab\t t5 ?\s& p are employ$4 ,x 0 ab\t ! ye> #ahdj :5 ! idea ( weav+ ?reads ( ela/ic 9 connection ) o!r mat]ials 0 fir/ conceiv$4 ,aft] long exp]im5ts ?is 0 accompli%$ 9 ! v simple/ =m ( weav+4 ,new ideas 7 f "t to "t introduc$1 & new uses f\nd = ! product1 until n[ x cov]s a l>ge v>iety ( bo? pla9 & fancy weaves1 & ! multiplicity ( uses are s v>i$ t few realize !m :o are n closely associat$ ) ! bus9ess4 ,,am]ican ,,indu/ry ,,/>t$ ,,ab\t #ahfj ,x 0 n until ab\t ! ye> #ahfj t ela/ic web weav+ 0 introduc$ into ?is c\ntry1 al?\gh = a numb] ( ye>s previ\s ,engl& & ,g]many1 & also ,france 9 a small way1 _h f\nd "h a m>ket = _! product1 p>ticul>ly 9 cords1 braids & %oe gor+1 :i* at t p>ticul> "t 0 fa/ gr[+ 9 popul>ity4 ,ab\t #ahfj1 a few looms :i* _h be5 us$1 7 br\ght ov] f ,engl& & locat$ at ,ea/hampton1 ,mass41 & ! manufacture ( %oe gor+ comm5c$4 ,! rubb] ?read requir$ 0 = "s "t import$ f ,engl&4 ,! bus9ess grew rapidly1 & factories 7 e/abli%$ 9 a numb] ( cities1 m p>ticul>ly at ,bo/on1 ,l[ell & ,brockton1 ,mass41 ,bridgeport1 ,conn41 & ,camd51 ,n4 ,j4 ,an un=tunate labor dispute took place ab\t ! ye> #ahij1 :i* develop$ into a long-drawn out /rike1 ultimately precipitat+ friction betwe5 ! %oe trade & ! gor+ web manufactur]s1 :i* f9ally end$ 9 a positive boycott ( ?is product f :i* ! trade has nev] recov]$4 ,mo/ ( ! looms :i* 7 up to ?is "t devot$ to %oe gor+ h be5 remodel$ & are n[ us$ 9 ! mak+ ( o!r types ( ela/ic fabrics4 ,9 pass+1 x may be int]e/+ to note t "s ( ! looms orig9ally br\ght f ,engl& #fj ye>s ago are /ill 9 op]ation & do+ excell5t "w along o!r l9es4 ,,attempts ,,to ,,use ,,wide ,,looms ,attempts h be5 made f "t to "t to weave ela/ics on wide looms1 ! clo? be+ divid$ at int]vals by op5 spaces 9 ! w>ps at ! front re$1 at ei!r side ( :i* spaces b9d+ ?reads 7 wov5 94 ,^! n>r[ /rips 7 spac$ 9 ! front re$ accord+ to ! diff]5t wid?s :i* might be requir$1 & c\ld easily be *ang$ to meet ! v>y+ requirem5ts by r$raw+ a few ?reads1 inasmu* z ! :ole weave 0 uni=m ?r\gh\t ! full wid? ( ! clo?4 ,betwe5 ^! spaces1 b at a po9t away f ! weav+ l9e1 7 arrang$ /ation>y knives by :i* ! clo? 0 cut into ! requisite wid?s :ile x 0 be+ wov51 & z x gradually pass$ by ! knife edges4 ,^! knives 7 s arrang$ t !y c\ld be adju/$ to new positions :5 x became necess>y to *ange ! wid?s ( ! individual /rips4 ,:ile ?is me?od 0 m economical ?an weav+ individual webs 9 gang looms1 ! labor co/ be+ mu* less1 ! n>r[ webs produc$ hav+ ! cut selvages lack$ ! f9i%$ appe>ance :i* ! individually wov5 webs _h4 ,& sometimes ! b9d+ ?reads w\ld give way1 s t ! fabrics 7 n well receiv$ by ! trade1 & ultimately ! dem& = !m di$ out4 ,attempts 7 made to sup]s$e ! individually wov5 /rips 9 ano!r direction by ! use ( two f9ely wov5 pieces ( clo?1 "o to =m ! back1 & ! o!r to =m ! face ( ! goods1 ) an ela/ic sub/ance me*anically /ret*$ out & ins]t$ betwe5 ! two4 ,^! diff]5t p>ts 7 cal5d]$ toge!r & aft]w>d cut into /rips ( ! desir$ wid?s4 ,?is me?od 0 n )\t _m advantages4 ,/rips ( diff]5t wid?s 7 easily made )\t ! co/ly me?od ( r$raw+ ! w>ps 9 ! looms4 ,an unlimit$ *oice ( bo? pla9 & fancy fabrics c\ld be us$1 hav+ if desir$ di/9ctly diff]5t appe>ances & con/ructions = face & back1 & ?is alone op5$ up a wide range ( possibilities4 ,! f9i%$ clo? l5t itself admirably to fancy emboss+ & pr9t+ & to v>i\s o!r =ms ( elaboration4 ,b someh[ ! trade did n take to x1 & ?is also f9ally di$ out4 ,! trade ultimately settl$ d[n to ! weav+ ( ela/ic goods ( all k9ds1 bo? pla9s & fancies1 9 gang looms1 & ! bus9ess has /eadily gr[n ev] s9ce along ^! l9es4 ,,/raight ,,%uttle ,,& ,,circul> ,,%uttle ,,looms ,! looms employ$ are v v>i$1 inasmu* z ! requirem5ts cov] a wide range & new uses are con/antly aris+ ) new dem&s4 ,! simple/ =m ( weav+ is t employ$ on ! mak+ ( webs su* z are mo/ly us$ = g>t]s1 & :i* are also us$ = _m o!r simple purposes 9 ne>ly e h\sehold4 ,^! webs are commonly kn[n z loom webs1 lisles & cables4 ,!y are g5]ally made on pla91 n>r[1 cam looms1 "s ( :i* are capable ( accommodat+ z _m z #ef pieces or /rips at "o "t4 ,!re are two di/9ct types ( loom employ$1 "o ( :i* is kn[n z ! /raight %uttle & ! o!r ! circul> %uttle loom4 ,9 ! =m] type1 ! /raight %uttle1 9 travel+ across ! diff]5t spaces1 takes up m room ?an ! circul> %uttle1 & ?us some:at curtails ! numb] ( pieces :i* c be op]at$ 9 ! loom1 limit+ capacity ( production1 & relatively increas+ ! co/4 ,v few ( ! /raight %uttle looms accommodate m ?an #cf %uttles1 accord+ to ! wid? ( ! goods requir$4 ,! circul> %uttles travel ov] a segm5t ( a circle & cross ov] ea* o!r's tracks 9 _! movem5t ?r\gh ! %$1 z %[n 9 ,fig4 #a4 ,?is p]mits ! cr[d+ ( ! pieces ( web clos] toge!r1 s t _m m c be accommodat$ 9 ! same loom space ?an :5 ! /raight %uttle is us$4 ,?is type sometimes runs z high z #ef %uttles to ! loom4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #a4--;,circul> ,%uttle ,webb+ ,loom ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #b4--,rack & ,p9ion ,movem5t = ,actuat+ ,%uttles ,,prev5t ,,loom ,,vibration ,^! looms (t5 are spe$$ z high z #ahj picks p] m9ute4 ,to op]ate at ?is spe$ ) s _m pieces ( web & make satisfactory goods1 free f ?ick & ?9 places ?r\gh irregul>ities ( spe$ or v>iable mom5tum 9 runn+1 a v heavy type ( loom is necess>y4 ,!y %\ld be erect$ on solid f\ndations s z to elim9ate all possible vibration4 ,a solid concrete floor into :i* timb]s h be5 prop]ly set s t ! feet ( ! looms may be securely an*or$ into !m is ! ideal way1 b :]e ?is is n practicable at lea/ heavy f\ndation timb]s = an*or+ ! loom feet to %\ld be arrang$4 ,! frames ( ! looms %\ld be heavy2 also ! ma9 driv+ %aft1 :i* %\ld h wide be>+s s z to prolong ! life ( ! %aft at ! we>+ po9ts & obviate loose play 9 ! boxes4 ,! crank%afts mu/ also be v heavy & !re %\ld be en\gh ( !m s z to rigidly )/& ! repeat$ beat ( ! lay )\t liability to take on any loose motion1 :i* w\ld be fatal to ! production ( p]fect goods4 ,weight & /r5g? "h is v ess5tial1 inasmu* z x is n practical to get a direct l9e f ! %aft to ! lay on acc\nt ( ! h>ness movem5t1 & !y mu/ be built to drop bel[ ! h>nesses :i* =m makes !m subject to heavy /ra9 at ! beat ( ! lay4 ,!y %\ld also be made adju/able1 ea* arm hav+ a heavy left & "r ?read$ ins]t1 s t ! l5g? ( ! weav+ l9e may be *ang$ to meet ! v>y+ requirem5ts ( diff]5t webs4 ,!y %\ld also be con/ruct$ s t any we> may be tak5 up4 ,! lay itself mu/ necess>ily be v heavy4 ,x is g5]ally con/ruct$ ( sev]al ?icknesses ( timb] ( diff]5t k9ds1 s z to avoid any possibility ( w>p+ & %r9kage4 ,! %uttles us$ are mo/ly made ( applewood4 ,:ile !y mu/ run smoo? & be free f ! risk ( sliv]s !y mu/ at ! same "t be v light s z to be freely drawn across ! multiple ( web spaces4 ,x w be easily se5 t ! draw+ ( s _m %uttles ov] a space ( ab\t ?ree times _! l5g?1 at possibly #ahj picks p] m9ute1 c>ry+ & deliv]+ ! necess>y weft to ! webs1 ea* ?read ( weft be+ *eck$ to a c]ta9 ext5t by friction spr+s1 requires great c>e & ?\ght 9 con/ruction4 ,%uttle wood mu/ be ?or\ghly season$ by age or x w n s]ve ! purpose4 ,! %uttles !mselves are v +5i\sly con/ruct$ s z to accommodate ! greate/ possible am\nt ( fill+1 toge!r ) ! necess>y space = spr+s to prop]ly manipulate ! t5sions4 ,ea* %uttle is bor$ ?r\gh at ei!r side s z to all[ = ! ins]tion ( a f9e recoil spr+1 :i* is made fa/ at "o end ( ! drill$ hole at ! back ( ! %uttle4 ,to ! o!r end ( ! spr+ is atta*$ a small porcela9 eye1 ?r\gh :i* is ?read$ ! weft1 mak+ x possible to gov]n & take up by ! action ( ! spr+ ! loose fill+ :i* is ?r[n (f z ! %uttle passes & repasses ?r\gh ! %$4 ,^! side recoil spr+s are n only useful = ! tak+ up ( ! loose fill+ b all[ = a v>iety ( ?read+ up me?ods1 s z to assi/ 9 ! gov]n+ ( ! t5sion ( ! weft at "o or bo? sides ( ! web1 & ?us af=d a means ( weav+ ! goods level4 ,!y aid 9 correct+ any t5d5cy to long & %ort sid$ goods1 ( :i* we w say m lat]4 ,at ! back ( ! quill or %uttle spool is arrang$ ano!r spr+ on :i* is swivell$ a porcela9 device :i* presses aga9/ ! quill1 & c be s regulat$ z to gov]n ! t5sion4 ,?is spr+ is s temp]$ t ! mo/ delicate adju/m5t ( t5sion c be made4 ,,rack ,,& ,,p9ion ,,movem5t ,! %uttles across ! entire wid? ( ! loom are drawn to & fro by :at is kn[n z ! rack & p9ion movem5t4 7,see ,fig4 #b74 ,?is me?od has pretty g5]ally sup]s$$ ! old-"t plan ( rise & fall pegs4 ,! rack runs back & =? 9 a slot groov$ 9 ! top ( ! lay b$1 ,a1 ! entire l5g? ( ! loom4 ,to ! rack is atta*$ lea!r /raps ,g1 or heavily wov5 fabric /raps1 ) :i* ! rack ,b is pull$ to & fro at ea* pick ( ! loom4 ,! rack is ( wood1 hav+ r\nd$ tee?-pac$ approximately "o-?ird ( an in* ap>t4 ,into ! rack are me%$ p9ions ,c1 two to c>ry ea* %uttle ,e1 ! tee? ( :i* are correspond+ly spac$4 ,! rack is set into a wood c>ri] :i* is ab\t "o in* deep & "o in* wide1 & ! full l5g? ( ! lay4 ,! p9ions are made ( ei!r raw hide or pap] fibre1 & ^! p9ions aga9 me% into a s]ies ( racks ,d1 groov$ 9 on ! "u side ( ea* %uttle1 & ?us drive ! %uttle to & fro across ! web spaces ,j4 ,! con/ant travel ( ! driv+ rack runn+ 9 ! groove at ! top ( ! lay b$ necess>ily produces m or less we> at ! bottom ( ! rack4 ,x !re=e is advisable to place und]nea? ?is rack a false bottom ( wood ( ab\t -in* ?ick1 :i* aft] becom+ worn by con/ant use & contact ) ! ev]-mov+ rack may be easily tak5 out & replac$ by a new "o1 ?us keep+ ! rack & p9ions & %uttles at all times 9 prop] me% ) ea* o!r4 ,! rack is drawn backw>ds & =w>ds by ! be=e-m5tion$ /raps1 :i* are pass$ ov] pulleys & are ei!r fa/5$ to ! rack by means ( wood screws1 or securely lock$ ) a metal clamp design$ = ?is purpose4 ,^! /raps are sometimes sep>at$ by a pair ( cams set on a %aft mak+ "o revolution to ea* two picks ( ! loom4 ,! p[] f ^! cams is fir/ communicat$ to ecc5trically-%ap$ wood pulleys1 mov+ backw>ds & =w>ds1 :i* are s =m$ z to />t & /op ! %uttles sl[ly1 & to op]ate !m at a high] rate ( spe$ dur+ _! passage ?r\gh ! middle ( ! %$4 ,?is movem5t is necess>y to avoid a too e>ly entrance ( ! %uttle into ! weav+ %$ be=e ! h>ness is prop]ly settl$1 & also to s(t5 ! hamm]+ at ! close ( its travel s z to r$uce ! we> & te>4 ,x might be well to note "h also t ?is hamm]+ is also s(t5$ by ! plac+ ( a piece ( s(t rubb] ,h at ea* end ( ! rack run1 s t ! rack /rikes ?is s(t cu%ion ea* "t x goes home4 ,:ile ! cam me?od has be5 ext5sively us$ to produce ! k9d ( movem5t mo/ desirable = ! travel ( ! %uttle1 x has its drawback 9 ! mom5tum produc$1 :i* x is (t5 f\nd difficult to control4 ,! ,crompton ,kn[les ,loom ,works h design$ a %uttle motion :i* effectively gov]ns ! desir$ spe$s 9 ! travel ( ! %uttles :ile !y are ent]+1 pass+ ?r\gh1 & leav+ ! %$1 by a dwell+ movem5t op]at$ by a s]ies ( ge> :eels & oscillat+ slott$ rock]4 ,x is absolutely positive 9 action & does away ) ! uncontrollable & erratic movem5t s (t5 met ) 9 ! cam drive4 ,,movem5t ,,( ,,h>nesses ,f\r-pick cams are all t are necess>y to produce ! pla9 webs :i* are us$ = ord9>y purposes4 ,h[ev]1 x is n ! practice to conf9e looms to ! limitations ( ?is capacity1 b to put 9 ei!r #h or #ab-pick cams4 ,^!1 besides provid+ means to make ! pla9 weave1 op5 up possibilities = a numb] ( o!r weaves & comb9ations ( weaves1 :i* add mat]ially to ! usefulness ( ! loom4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #c4--;,direct ,cam ,movem5t ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #d4--,loom ) ,side ,cam ,me?od ( ,h>ness ,control ,!re are two di/9ct types ( cam movem5ts us$ 9 looms ( ?is "* = ! mak+ ( ord9>y webs4 ,"o is kn[n z ! direct cam drive1 :]e ! cams are fitt$ on a #d to #a %aft1 z %[n 9 ,fig4 #c1 :i* runs l5g?wise ( ! loom & f :i* ! p[] is communicat$ to ! h>nesses ?r\gh a s]ies ( lev]s ,a1 rock+ poles ,b1 lev]s ,c1 & lift+ wires to ! h>ness ,d4 ,! o!r movem5t is kn[n z ! end-cam me?od1 :]e a small %aft is set at ! end ( ! loom1 runn+ at "r angles to ! driv+ %aft 7,see ,fig4 #d7 f :i* x is driv5 by bevel ge>s4 ,on ?is %ort %aft are set ! cams1 usually #h or #ab 9 numb]1 :i* h a s]ies ( grooves at _! c5t] s z to af=d means ( tim+ !m 9 diff]5t positions on a fea!r key :i* runs ! full l5g? ( ! %aft4 ,^! cams op]ate :at is kn[n z ! cam jacks1 :i* may also be se5 9 ,fig4 #d4 ,! jacks are hung at ! middle & are mov$ backw>ds & =w>ds by ! cams1 communicat+ movem5t to ! v>i\s h>nesses4 ,! h>nesses are connect$ at bo? ! top & bottom ( ! jacks4 ,?is connection at bo? ends ( ! jacks makes x possible to run ! looms at a v high rate ( spe$1 z !re are no weights or spr+s to cont5d )1 :i* limits spe$4 ,:ile ! fir/ describ$ me?od ( direct cams has "s advantages ov] ! end cams1 su* looms are n ne>ly s economical to op]ate z ! end cams on acc\nt ( ! limit$ spe$ atta9able4 ,:ile ! h>nesses are lift$ by means ( ! cams !y h to be pull$ d[n by weights or spr+s4 ,! means ( %$ adju/m5t1 h[ev]1 enables ! atta9+ ( a well grad$ %$4 ,fur!rmore1 ! cams !mselves c be s set on ! %aft z to af=d means ( tim+ ! movem5ts ( ! diff]5t h>nesses s t excell5t & easy %$d+ results may be obta9$4 ,b ! "o great disadvantage is ! limitation ( ! weaves atta9able1 :i* limitation is l>gely ov]come by ! end-cam me?od4 ,:5 ! direct cam movem5t is us$1 & :]e ! goods be+ wov5 are ( su* a "* z to dem& a v sl[ spe$ ( ! loom1 x is practicable to br+ ! h>nesses d[n by weight+ !m ) wide flat weights ( ! requisite size4 ,b :]e high] spe$ is requir$ ?an is advisable = weight$ h>nesses1 spr+s are m desirable4 ,! simple/ =m ( pull+ d ! h>nesses is by ! use ( floor blocks & direct spr+s4 ,!re is1 h[ev]1 a disadvantage 9 us+ ! direct spr+ on acc\nt ( ! pull increas+ until ! extreme lift ( ! h>ness is rea*$1 :i* necess>ily increases mat]ially ! p[] exp5d$ 9 op]at+ same & makes an unnecess>y /ra94 ,! bett] way is to use :at is kn[n z spr+ jacks1 :i* h an easi] pull ?an ! direct spr+ inasmu* z ! load eases (f on ! pull1 dim9i%+ f ! greate/ pull at ! />t to ! lighte/ pull at ! extreme lift on ! lev]1 s t ! load is uni=mly di/ribut$ all ?r\gh ! movem5t & less p[] is employ$4 ,,*apt] ,,ii4 ,looms ,%\ld ,be ,adapt$ to ,make a ,wide ,v>iety ( ,goods--,take-,up & ,let-,(f ,motions--,mak+ ! ,rubb] ,w>ps = ,diff]5t ,classes ( ,web--,importance ( ,uni=m ,t5sion--,defects f ,unev5 ,t5sion & ,*af+ ( ,?reads ,! greate/ c>e is necess>y 9 plann+ out ! details ( ! h>ness4 ,on acc\nt ( ! great l5g? x becomes necess>y t ev]y?+ possible be done to avoid any *ance ( w>p+ or sagg+1 = ! lea/ irregul>ity :i* may be develop$ w ( c\rse int]f]e ) ! ev5ness ( ! %$4 ,! h>ness frames mu/ be made ( ! v be/ /ock obta9able1 ?or\ghly season$1 & absolutely /raight gra9$4 ,ea* frame mu/ be support$ at regul> & frequ5t int]vals by /ays or supports mortis$ 9 ! runn]s4 ,^! /ays are slott$ at top & bottom to receive ! h$dle b>s & keep !m accurately 9 l9e1 & ?us prev5t !m f cat*+ on ! neighbor+ h>ness dur+ ! op]ation ( ! %$d+ process4 ,x is necess>y also t ! top & bottom h$dle b>s be accurately spac$ s z to all[ prop] fre$om = ! h$dles to ride easily on ! b>s1 & ?us avoid any b9d+ ( h$dles :i* w\ld h a t5d5cy to cr[d ! w>p /ock toge!r & prev5t cle>ance ( ! %$4 ,/eel h$dles are pref]able to ones t b5d & twi/ m or less & get out ( alignm5t4 ,!y are made f temp]$ /eel :i* is v flexible & !y h r\nd corn]less eyes t _c possibly cat* or *afe ! w>p ?reads4 ,!y adju/ !mselves automatically to ! frame & _c twi/ or b5d :ile at "w1 & are made to accommodate !mselves to e conceivable k9d ( goods4 ,,in/all ,,looms ,,= ,,wide ,,range ,9 in/all+ looms = n>r[ ela/ic fabrics x is advisable to make ample provision = creel+ ! w>ps necess>y = ! diff]5t fabrics :i* may f "t to "t be requir$4 ,9 ! manufacture ( ! light s+le clo? g>t] webs1 n m ?an two w>ps to ! piece are requir$1 a face w>p & a gut w>p1 & ! temptation to save a little 9 ! initial co/ possibly may sugge/ a limitation ( creel spaces to imm$iate requirem5ts4 ,add$ exp5se may seem = ! "t be+ an unnecess>y burd54 ,b v soon !re may arise a call = o!r goods :i* _c be made )9 ! limitations ( ! two bank creel2 !re=e *anges become necess>y :i* are g5]ally mu* heavi] ?an fir/ co/ w\ld h be54 ,no?+ less ?an a five bank creel %\ld be in/all$4 ,_m times ! availability ( six banks has solv$ knotty problems ( w>p division to c>e = ! v>i\s weaves & mat]ials employ$ 9 "s con/ructions4 ,if ! entire capacity ( ! l>g] creel is n requir$ :5 fir/ />t+ x w n be necess>y to clo! all ( x ) lev]s1 buttons1 etc41 :i* may be procur$ lat]4 ,b by all means ample provision %\ld be made = ! full frame "w & support+ rods = same4 ,,take-,,up ,,motion ,ano!r important consid]ation is to make prop] provision = a reliable take-up motion1 s t ! goods may be tak5 away f ! re$ :ile weav+ )\t any liability to v>iabl5ess4 ,?is liability 0 pres5t 9 _m ( ! e>li] looms & exi/s 9 "s ( ! mills today4 ,! old-"t f9e rat*et ge>1 ev5 :5 provid$ ) a numb] ( pawls1 is always liable to erratic pick+1 :i* alone w ru9 an o!rwise p]fect piece ( goods & mat]ially *ange ! co/ ( manufactur+4 ,a slight irregul>ity ( pick+ may n be disc]nible 9 non-ela/ic goods1 :i* w be satisfactory s long z ! v>iabl5ess is n easily se5 & a reasonable av]age ( picks p] in* is ma9ta9$4 ,b 9 ela/ic goods1 :]e ! contraction takes place aft] !y leave ! press rolls1 e irregul>ity is reveal$ & int5sifi$ s !re is no room to take *ances4 ,! only safe way is to employ pick+ ge>s mak+ "o too? to ea* pick ( ! loom1 & !n to *ange ! ge>s :5 diff]5t pick+ becomes necess>y4 ,9 _m ( ! exi/+ looms !re has be5 no adequate provision made = ! weav] to let ! web back to ! re$ me*anically :5 a jo9+ becomes necess>y ?r\gh ! break+ ( ! fill+ :ile weav+1 or :]e a quill may h run (f unnotic$4 ,x is almo/ impossible to make a jo9+ satisfactorily )\t prop] me*anism be+ provid$ = ?is purpose4 ,9 "s ( ! sl[ runn+ looms provision is made = ?is by ! op]ation ( ea* set ( rolls indep5d5tly 7see ,fig4 #a71 by means ( ! rat*et ge> & pawl ,a & worm motion ,b4 ,?is plan has ! "o disadvantage ( tak+ up too mu* space betwe5 ! individual pieces4 ,:]e ! fabric wov5 is say f\r or five in*es wide1 & ! space w admit1 x is all t c be desir$1 & ! individually weight$ roll]s ,c associat$ ) ! motion are admirably adapt$ to v>iable pressure4 ,= ! v n>r[ ela/ic fabrics1 :i* require consid]able roll] pressure to hold ! web snug & firm :ile weav+1 & :]e x is necess>y to make v accurate jo9+s aft] a break has occurr$1 a bett] movem5t is "o 9 :i* ! web roll is plac$ on ! ma9 take-up %aft 9 ! =m ( a sleeve4 ,x is c>ri$ ar\nd by ! %aft z x turns :ile ! goods are be+ wov51 b c be releas$ & turn$ bo? backw>ds & =w>ds by a conv5i5tly plac$ h& :eel1 :i* op]ates a s]ies ( diff]5tial ge>s4 ,?is movem5t is entirely indep5d5t ( ! movem5t ( ! ma9 take-up %aft drive4 ,,t5sion ,,on ,,rubb] ,,w>p ,too mu* importance _c be atta*$ to prop]ly controll+ ! t5sion ( ! rubb] w>p4 ,on its uni=mity dep5ds n only ! quality1 b also ! co/ ( ! web4 ,! great] ! weight ( slack rubb] wov5 into ! web ! m co/ly x becomes & ! poor] ! quality4 ,a v accurate s5se ( t\* is requir$ 9 te/+ ! t5sion ( ! rubb] ?reads z !y are be+ deliv]$ into ! goods4 ,! rubb] w>p requires ! highe/ possible t5sion be=e break+ or *af+ ( ! ?read takes place4 ,ea* rubb] ?read %\ld be "u ?is high t5sion s t :5 ! goods come ?r\gh ! press roll ! desir$ contraction w take place uni=mly1 & a flat piece ( web w be produc$ t w h pl5ty ( life4 ,x mu/ always be rememb]$ t ! individual ?reads ( rubb] :i* con/itute a rubb] w>p w act z a s]ies ( small spr+s1 work+ 9 unison ) ea* o!r4 ,ea* "o %\ld h equal p[] to contract ! fabric at its own p>ticul> "p4 ,if any "o ( ^! /r&s or spr+s is *af$ & weak5$1 x less5s ! contract+ p[]1 & ! result is t ! weak5$ or less contract$ "p is ( relatively great] l5g? ?an ! p>ts :]e ! rubb] ?reads h reta9$ _! full p[]4 ,moreov]1 ! appe>ance ( ! goods w be spoil$ by ! *af$ p>ticles ( rubb] prick+ ?r\gh ! face1 p>ticul>ly on ! :ite & light] color$ goods4 ,be=e su* webs c be m>ket$ !y mu/ be subject$ to a buff+ op]ation to remove ^! dirty p>ticles1 :i* is accompli%$ by pass+ !m ov] a highly spe$$1 clo? cov]$ roll]1 :i* w remove ! loose p>ticles by friction & high velocity4 ,b ?is op]ation adds to ! co/4 ,a high & uni=m t5sion ( ! rubb] w>p is s important t mo/ manufactur]s keep m5 specially employ$ 9 ! te/+ ( ! ?reads1 in/ead ( leav+ ?is matt] to ! weav]s4 ,^! te/]s acquire su* a ke5 s5se ( t\* t !y c obta9 v economical & satisfactory results4 ,talc or soap/one is freely us$ z a lubricant to r$uce ! risk ( *af+ & break+ ( ! rubb] ?reads4 ,! w>ps are arrang$ s z to all[ ! ?reads to pass ?r\gh a b$ ( plu%1 load$ ) talc1 :i* adh]es to ! rubb] ?reads & makes !m "w v smoo?ly4 ,?is is especially important 9 damp wea!r1 :i* is ! wor/ condition = ! weav+ ( ela/ic goods4 ,at times factories h /opp$ op]ations :5 ! wea!r 0 especially humid4 ,,let-,,(f ,,motion ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #a4--;,individual ,take-,up ,motion = ,wide ,space ,looms ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #b4--;,individual ,rubb] ,w>p ,let-,(f ,motion ,:5 we rememb] t ! front re$ w pass by ! rubb] ?reads possibly six or sev5 hundr$ times f _! entrance into ! %$ to _! rea*+ ! leav+ l9e1 x is n to be wond]$ at t *af+ is liable to take place4 ,) all ?is liability ( spoil+ goods x becomes readily app>5t t any device employ$ to regulate su* an important feature z ! t5sion ( ! rubb] w>ps mu/ be v s5sitive & dep5dable4 ,on looms mak+ wide goods1 & :]e space w all[1 regulation is accompli%$ by a worm & ge> movem5t z %[n 9 ,fig4 #b4 ,! iron rubb] beam is ?read$ on to a squ>e %aft ,a1 at "o end ( :i* a ge> :eel ,b is fa/5$4 ,9 ?is ge> is me%$ ! worm ,c1 :i* is op]at$ by a heavy l95 cord ,d pass$ twice ar\nd a pulley ,e4 ,! cord d]ives its movem5t f a rock+ %aft ,f1 on :i* !re is fa/5$ a screw ext5sion ,g1 by :i* adju/m5t c be made s z to deliv] v accurately any am\nt f ! rubb] beam4 ,) ?is k9d ( movem5t1 & 9 ord] to fe$ ! ?read uni=mly into ! web1 x becomes necess>y to use me*anically made w>ps :]e ! same uni=mity has be5 ma9ta9$ 9 putt+ ! w>ps on ! beams4 ,! w>ps s made mu/ come f ! ?read manufactur] 9 individual w>ps1 :i* are done up 9 *a9 =m1 ea* w>p conta9+ ! requisite numb] ( ?reads4 ,,mak+ ,,rubb] ,,w>ps ,! ma*9e us$ = mak+ ! w>ps1 %[n at ,fig4 #c1 is m\nt$ on an iron frame ,a1 :i* c>ries ! p[] driv5 w>p beam ,b4 ,beh9d ?is is an op5 top expansion re$ ,c1 ! d5ts ( :i* are regulat$ to op51 co>se or f9e by an int]nal spr+ :i* is regulat$ by a h& :eel4 ,?is re$ also has a screw sidewise adju/m5t = c5t]+4 ,beh9d ! re$ ,c are fix$ two pairs ( nip rolls1 ,d & ,e1 & an op5 roll] ,f1 :i* is foll[$ by a belt-driv5 beat] roll ,g1 us$ to beat ! ?reads out /raight z !y leave ! *a94 ,! rubb] w>p is fir/ laid on a clo? on ! floor1 "u ! beat] roll4 ,! end is !n pass$ ov] ! beat] roll ,g1 ov] ! op5 roll ,f1 ?r\gh ! two pairs ( nip rolls ,d & ,e1 ov] ! expansion re$ ,c1 & !n loop$ to a lead] on ! rubb] beam1 :]e ! knot is put 9 a c\nt]-s9k on ! beam b>rel1 s z n to int]f]e ) ! lay ( ! w>p4 ,! section ( ! w>p betwe5 ! two pairs ( nip rolls is br\ght d[n 9 loop =m1 %[n at ,h1 & ! nip rolls are !n clos$ :ile ! w>p is 9 ?is position4 ,! two sets ( nip rolls are spe$$ alike & ! rubb] is always kept slack betwe5 ! gripp+ po9ts1 s t all ?reads pass+ ?r\gh ! la/ set ( nip rolls1 ,d1 are p]fectly gaug$ 9 l5g? & t5sion :5 pass+ ?r\gh ! re$ ,c & on to ! beam ,b4 ,! ?reads ( rubb] are "u consid]able t5sion1 inasmu* z ! beam ,b is driv5 fa/] ?an ! nip rolls ,d & ,e4 ,,friction ,,let-,,(f ,:]e !re is limit$ loom space1 & :]e a small numb] ( ?reads are employ$1 z 9 ! n>r[] g>t] fabrics1 x is n z practical to h ! w>ps made me*anically1 & = ?is reason !y are n likely to be put on ! beams ) z mu* uni=mity ( t5sion4 ,9 su* cases x becomes necess>y to h "s automatic device t w correct any irregul>ities & ma9ta9 a uni=m deliv]y ?r\gh\t4 ,! device = do+ ?is is %[n at ,fig4 #d4 ,! w>p c>ri] ,a is fa/5$ to ! back rail1 :i* c>ries ! w>p1 ov] :i* is pass$ ! friction clo? ,g :i* is hung f a rod ,d4 ,! friction clo? is fa/5$ at ! bottom to ! graduat$ w>p lev] ,e1 :i* is bolt$ to ! bottom rail ,h1 z %[n4 ,! rubb] ?reads con/itut+ ! w>p pass 9 a direct l9e to ! h>ness ,c1 & !n to ! brea/ beam ,b4 ,! lev] ,e1 & ! weights ,f1 all[ = prop] adju/m5t ( ! friction clo? s z to keep ! lev] level z ! w>p beam empties4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #c4--,rubb] ,w>p+ ,ma*9e ,9 mak+ ! rubb] w>ps = n>r[ fabrics su* z g>t]s & susp5d]s1 :]e ! la/ describ$ me?od ( w>p deliv]y takes place1 x is cu/om>y to "w f an entire %eet ( rubb]1 splitt+ x up into ! requir$ sections or /rips ( ! v>i\s sizes call$ = 9 ! w>ps4 ,?is splitt+ & w>p+ process mu/ be done 9 a long room :]e ! w>p c be /ret*$ out to its full l5g?1 if possible1 aft] x is un*a9$4 ,^! w>ps are usually ab\t #fj y>ds long4 ,! 8head0 ( ! %eet1 or ! "p :]e ! cutt+ knife has n gone ?r\gh1 is spread out flat on a s]ies ( hooks at ! beam+ ma*9e & ! tail end is fix$ securely on a /rong hook at ! o!r end ( ! room4 ,! requisite numb] ( ?reads = ! sev]al w>ps :i* are to be beam$ are c\nt$ (f & ea* diff]5t section is fa/5$ to a beam4 ,! end knot is laid snugly 9 ! c\nt]-s9k made 9 ! beam b>rel = ?is purpose4 ,a wide re$ is us$1 cov]+ ! numb] ( beams op]at$ 9 ! ma*9e1 :i* is usually ab\t f\r1 & ! ?reads are re$$ ov] spaces opposite ! diff]5t beams4 ,?is re$ c be mov$ sidewise across ! face ( ! beams & ea* w>p prop]ly c5t]$ s z to keep ! w>p level4 ,! op]ator !n />ts ! beam+ ma*9e1 :i* may be op]at$ ei!r by h& or p[]1 & ! w>ps are w\nd up4 ,at ! same "t a help] walks t[>ds ! beam] c>ry+ ! tail end ( ! w>ps & keep+ ! t5sion z ne>ly uni=m z possible4 ,:5 ! w>ps are all w\nd on ! sev]al beams1 a lease is tak5 9 ea* ( !m 9 ! ord9>y mann]1 & ea* sep>ate section is securely fa/5$4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #d4--;,automatic ,friction ,let-,(f = ,rubb] ,w>ps ,%\ld floor space be limit$1 a horizontal reel is us$1 :i* is ab\t six feet long & ab\t five feet 9 diamet]4 ,on ?is ! %eet ( rubb] is w\nd aft] be+ split 9 prop] sections at ! head end & divid$ by a co>se re$1 s z to be able to di/ribute ! diff]5t sections all across ! reel4 ,ea* section c !n be tak5 (f ! reel z requir$ = ! beams4 ,! t5sion ( ! ?reads is gov]n$ by a weight$ lea!r /rap pass$ ov] ! face ( ! reel4 ,,*apt] ,,iii4 ,head ,motion ,looms & ,dobbies = ,mak+ ,fancy ,effects--,ty+ ,up ,h>ness--,con/ruction ( ,loom ,webs1 ,lisle ,webs1 ,fr5* ,web or ,railroad ,weave & ,cable ,webs--,mak+ ,good ,selvages & ,prev5t+ ,long-,sid$ ,effect ,s f> we h m5tion$ only pla9 looms1 or ^? limit$ to ! capacity ( eight or twelve pick cams4 ,be=e we consid] any ( ! v>i$ con/ructions relat+ to ela/ic webs x w be well to speak ( fancy looms4 ,!re are diff]5t types1 adapt$ to a wide range ( fancy effects1 b ! fancy loom mo/ g5]ally us$ is :at is kn[n z ! *a9 head1 an example ( :i* is %[n at ,fig4 #a4 ,su* looms are usually ( #ah & #bd h>ness capacity1 & are op]at$ by a figure *a9 ( ! l5g? requir$ to produce ! desir$ figure4 ,*a9s are made up ( a s]ies ( b>s1 "o b> op]at+ ) ea* pick ( ! loom & hav+ on x space = a roll] or s9k] = ea* h>ness to be op]at$4 ,:]ev] a roll] is plac$ on ! b>1 ! correspond+ h>ness w be rais$1 & :]ev] a s9k] is us$1 ! correspond+ h>ness w be dropp$4 ,a s]ies ( roll]s foll[+ ea* o!r w hold ! h>ness up1 & likewise a s]ies ( s9k]s foll[+ ea* o!r w keep ! h>ness d[n1 ?us ma9ta9+ at all times an op5 %$4 ,,! ,,%$d+ ,,op]ation ,! %$d+ op]ation is v simple4 ,9 ! fancy head !re are two cyl9d]s1 ea* ( :i* has ge> tee? runn+ ! entire l5g?4 ,^! cyl9d]s op]ate cont9u\sly 9 opposite directions4 ,! tee? ( ! cyl9d]s d n g ar\nd ! entire circumf]5ce z w be notic$ on ! upp] cyl9d] %[n 9 ,fig4 #a1 b !re is a blank space provid$ s z to all[ = ! engag+ ( ! ge> :eels br\ght into position at ! "r "t z ! cyl9d]s revolve4 ,betwe5 ! two cyl9d]s are vibrator ge>s1 "o = ea* h>ness1 & to ^! ge>s are atta*$ arms :i* are connect$ ) ! diff]5t h>nesses4 ,^! vibrator ge>s c be ?r[n into position by ! *a9 roll]s or s9k]s1 s z to come 9 contact ) ! tee? ( ei!r ! upp] or l[] cyl9d]1 & are s tim$ t !y take _! position at ! mom5t :5 ! blank "p ( ! cyl9d] pres5ts itself4 ,a vibrator ge> engag+ ! upp] cyl9d] is turn$ s z to lift ! h>ness connect$ ) x1 :ile a vibrator ge> engag+ ! l[] cyl9d] drops t p>ticul> h>ness4 ,! h>nesses /ay 9 _! relative positions until ! *a9 calls = ano!r *ange4 ,bo? cyl9d]s & engag+ ge>s are made ( h>d *ill$ /eel1 s t we> & te> by hamm]+ at ! "t ( engagem5t are r$uc$ to a m9imum4 ,to fur!r s(t5 ! engagem5t1 ! spe$ ( ! cyl9d] is controll$ by elliptical driv+ ge>s1 :i* r$uce ! spe$ ( travel j at ! mom5t :5 ! engagem5t takes place4 ,! tim+ ( ! v>i\s movem5ts ( ! head is s well controll$ t !re is little risk ( any "p fail+ to ma9ta9 prop] relation%ip ) ! o!r p>ts4 ,b 9 ! ev5t ( any accid5t or breakage occurr+ :i* int]f]es ) ! free motion ( ! head1 su* /ra9 is tak5 c>e ( by a s(t po9t$ set screw on ! head driv+ %aft1 :i* %e>s (f & s prev5ts fur!r s]i\s damage4 ,! capacity ( ! head is su* t by c>eful arrangem5t ( figures & repeats x is q possible to make sev]al simple designs to run side by side 9 ! same h>nesses & ?is is (t5 done4 ,( ?is we may write m lat]4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #a4--;,fancy ,loom = ,weav+ ,n>r[ ,fabrics ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #b4--;,d\ble ,index ,dobby ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #c4--,ov]%ot ,dobby ,,! ,,ov]head ,,dobby ,a popul> ma*9e = light fancy w>p figures is ! ov]head dobby %[n at ,fig4 #b1 :i* may be us$ z auxili>y ei!r to ! pla9 cam loom or ! fancy head loom4 ,x is plac$ on a well brac$1 rigid frame & built z high z conv5i5t s z to r$uce ! angle ( ! h>ness /r+s4 ,x is driv5 directly f a two to "o %aft1 :i* may be ei!r und]nea? ! loom or at ! end1 & is connect$ ) a ?read$ adju/able rod1 :i* is atta*$ to a slott$ lev] & c be adju/$ to gov]n ! dep? ( ! dobby %$4 ,x is cu/om>y to put two ( ^! dobby ma*9es ov] ea* loom1 b hav+ only "o ma9 drive ! two ma*9es are c\pl$ toge!r & "w 9 unison4 ,su* an arrangem5t has ! d\ble advantage ( a less acute angle at ! h>ness tie-up1 & also af=ds facilities = a di/9ctly diff]5t patt]n on ei!r half ( ! loom4 ,x m9imizes ! risk ( ! h>ness ?reads cutt+ into ! comp>t bo>ds1 & prolongs relatively ! life ( ! dobby h>ness4 ,fur!rmore x all[s = a /raight tie-up on ei!r ma*9e s t !re is no limitation to ! l5g? or "* ( ! design1 z is (t5 ! case :]e two patt]ns are run toge!r on ! same ma*9e1 or :]e po9t tie-ups are us$1 z w\ld v likely be necess>y if only "o ma*9e 0 in/all$ to cov] diff]5t designs on bo? halves ( ! loom4 ,z we h previ\sly /at$ x is n advisable to limit capacity = ! sav+ ( a few doll>s 9 ! initial co/4 ,,ov]%ot ,,dobby ,ano!r type ( loom employ$ 9 ! mak+ ( fancy goods is :at is kn[n z ! ov]%ot loom4 ,x is us$ = ! introduction ( a silk weft figure effect1 & is probably ! mo/ pron\nc$ =m ( elaboration introduc$4 ,x diff]s f ! old rise & fall me?od 9 ! economy ( op]ation4 ,! ov]%ot cont9ues to weave ! body ( ! goods "r along :ile ! auxili>y %uttle is putt+ ! silk figure 9 at ! same "t4 ,n only is x economical 9 ! respect ( great] y>dage1 b ! me?od employ$ 9 b9d+ ! figure limits ! use ( silk to ! actual figure display$1 & does n c>ry ! silk1 :i* is ! mo/ exp5sive mat]ial 9 ! fabric1 to ! extreme selvage at e pick1 z is ! case :]e ! rise & fall me?od is employ$4 ,9 ! ov]%ot sy/em a specially design$ dobby1 %[n at ,fig4 #c1 is us$ = op]at+ ! lightly weight$ ?reads ( ! b9d] w>ps4 ,two pairs ( knives are employ$1 "o ( ea* pair op]at+ f> en\gh to raise ! ?reads us$ 9 ! b9d] w>p to ! level ( ! top ma9 %$1 :ile ! o!r "o ( ea* pair c>ries ! ?reads :i* are us$ = figure purposes to a high] level1 s t ! ov]%ot %uttle may pass "u !m4 ,?is occurs e alt]nate pick ( ! loom1 ! body %uttle mak+ two picks :ile ! upp] or ov]%ot %uttle makes only "o4 ,9 levell+ ! h>ness1 sett+ or tim+ ( ! loom1 & mak+ ! %$ = ov]%ot "w1 ! plans foll[$ are id5tically ! same z 9 ord9>y s+le %uttle "w1 z ! upp] %uttle & upp] %$ are di/9ctly auxili>y & subord9ate to ! ma9 %$4 ,! b9d] w>p1 be+ necess>ily b lightly weight$ 9 its relation%ip to ! upp] & l[] clo?s x is b9d+ toge!r1 all[s = ! figure ?reads to be /ra9$ out ( _! normal position1 s t ! upp] %uttle may pass "u !m4 ,9 ord] to con=m to ?is /ra9$ position ( ! b9d] figure ?reads1 ! upp] %uttle mu/ be acutely pit*$ d[nw>d at ! nose s z to get a good cle>ance1 & ?us avoid any b9d+ 9 its passages ?r\gh ! %$4 ,?is peculi> d[nw>d pit* ( ! %uttle is v important & _c be ov] emphasiz$4 ,x is %[n 9 ,fig4 #d4 ,! ov]%ot dobby is s con/ruct$ t a diff]5t set ( draw knives op]ate on ea* alt]nate pick ( ! loom1 "o on ! b9d] lift & ! o!r on ! rubb] lift4 ,?is n only all[s = a silk figure made ) ! %uttle b af=ds facilities = ! introduction ( a w>p figure also1 a comb9ation :i* c (t5 be made v effective1 z %[n 9 ,fig4 #e4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #d4--,%[+ ,auxili>y ,%$ & ,pit*$ ,%uttle z ,us$ 9 ,ov]%ot ,"w ,,importance ,,( ,,dobby ,,h>ness ,too mu* importance _c be atta*$ to ! rigg+ ( ! dobby h>ness4 ,a #cj_/i ply l95 cord is desirable & a l+o ( ab\t #af to ! p\nd4 ,aft] decid+ on ! "* ( ! tie-up requir$1 & :5 ! h>ness has be5 ?read$ 9 ! comp>t bo>ds1 ! l+oes %\ld be loop$ on ! /r+s1 & !n left to /& & settle = a c\ple ( days be=e level+4 ,x is bett] /ill to run ! dobby ma*9e = a few h\rs1 lift+ all ! h>ness & !n dropp+ !m1 s z to settle ! /r+s & take out any k9ks or loose places :i* are b\nd to exi/ 9 a highly cabl$ l95 cord ( ?is "*4 ,! labor requir$ 9 ! ty+ up & level+ ( a /r+ h>ness sugge/s ! advisability ( great c>e 9 det]m9+ ! tie-up to be us$1 s t *anges ( patt]n c be made easily )\t involv+ *anges 9 ! tie-up4 ,9 ord] to prolong ! life ( ! h>ness1 9 ! adju/m5t ( :i* s mu* "t & c>e mu/ necess>ily be sp5t1 x is advisable to apply a dress+ ( boil$ l9se$ oil1 :i* %\ld be ?or\ghly work$ into ! /r+s by runn+ ! h>ness = sev]al h\rs1 us+ "o & "o *ange c>ds4 ,?is %\ld be foll[$ by a du/+ ( talc or soap/one1 :i* w add mu* to ! smoo?ness ( ! f9i%4 ,to r$uce ! friction ( ! /r+s :i* op]ate 9 ! sev]al outside comp>t bo>ds1 :]e ! /ra9 & we> are p>ticul>ly acute1 & also to prev5t ! /r+s f cutt+ into ! bo>ds !mselves1 x is good practice to fix /rips ( gr\nd glass betwe5 ! diff]5t r[s ( /r+s1 j above ! comp>t bo>ds4 ,^! /rips ( glass may be ?read$ ?r\gh drill$ holes 9 ! comp>t bo>d frame4 ,,con/ruction ,,( ,,simple ,,webs ,be=e enl>g+ fur!r on details ( fancy looms1 x w be well to retrace our /eps & consid] ! con/ruction ( "s ( ! simpl] =ms ( web1 su* z are made on :at we h describ$ z pla9 looms4 ,! webs be/ kn[n1 p]haps1 are ^? su* z are us$ = m5's ord9>y g>t] we>1 & = cutt+ up to retail 9 ! regul> dry goods & notions trade4 ,!y v>y f "o-qu>t] to #b in*es 9 wid?4 ,!re are sev]al di/9ct classes ( ^! goods1 ! be/ kn[n ( :i* are ! loom webs1 ! lisles & ! cables1 all ( :i* are ( s+le clo? con/ruction1 9 :i* ! fill+ is ! ma9 feature4 ,!re are g5]ally two cotton w>ps us$ 9 su* goods1 "o ( :i* is commonly call$ ! b9d] & weaves two up & two d[n1 :ile ! o!r is call$ ! gut or fill]1 & works ) ! rubb] w>p1 "o up & "o d[n4 ,! selvages ( ^! webs are made ) ! fill+1 :i* passes ar\nd a wire at ea* pick1 ! wire rema9+ /ation>y :ile ! web is tak5 away f x 9 ! process ( weav+4 ,an illu/ration ( a loom web ( ?is "* is %[n at ,fig4 #f4 ,! draft & cam arrangem5t are %[n at ,fig4 #f;,a4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #e4--;,comb9ation ,w>p & ,%uttle ,figure ,produc$ on ,ov]%ot ,dobby4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #f ,fig4 #g ,fig4 #h ,fig4 #i ,fig4 #aj ,x is cu/om>y 9 "s factories to use only "o h>ness to c>ry bo? rubb] & gut1 inasmu* z ! weav+ ( ! two are ! same & !y bo? g 9 ! same cavity or pocket ( ! web4 ,:]e su* a me?od is employ$ !re is always a t5d5cy = ! gut ?reads to get out ( _! prop] places1 & to fall toge!r 9 pairs at irregul> po9ts1 :i* w produce an objectionable 8r[ey0 appe>ance 9 ! goods4 ,?is w be notic$ m p>ticul>ly 9 :ite & light color$ webs4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #f;,a4--,h>ness ,draft & ,weave = ,?ree-,qu>t] ,in* ,loom ,web ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #g;,a4--,h>ness ,draft & ,weave = ,"o-,half ,in* ,lisle ,web ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #h;,a4--,h>ness ,draft & ,weave = ,?ree-,qu>t] ,in* ,fr5* ,web ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #i;,a4--,h>ness ,draft & ,weave = ,?ree-,qu>t] ,in* ,cable ,web ,9 ! h>ness draft %[n1 x w be se5 t "o h>ness is employ$ = ! rubb] & "o = ! gut4 ,x is ?us possible to %$ ! gut h>ness s z to op5 m ?an ! rubb]1 hav+ x travel bo? high] & l[] ?an ! rubb] h>ness at ea* alt]nate pick ( ! loom4 ,by ?is movem5t ! gut ?reads w be kept 9 ! desir$ position1 & at ! same relative side ( ! rubb] ?reads 9 ea* ( ! sev]al pockets design$ to c>ry !m bo?4 ,if1 f any unusual cause1 any ( ! gut ?reads get away f _! prop] places x is easy by ?is arrangem5t ( sep>ation to lift ! gut h>ness at any "t1 ins]t a ?read ( cotton betwe5 ! gut & rubb] ?reads1 & put !m 9 _! prop] places :5 comm5c+ to weave aga94 ,! weave employ$ 9 ! mak+ ( webs ( ?is k9d1 al?\gh ( a v simple "*1 involves a condition :i* does n favor a /raight well wov5 fabric unless great c>e is tak5 to (fset tr\blesome t5d5cies4 ,! nature ( ! weave is su* t at "o pick ! b9d] h>ness *anges1 :ile on ! next pick x rema9s op5 & does n *ange1 ! rubb] & gut h>ness *ang+ only4 ,! result ( ?is movem5t is su* t "o %$ cle>s = ! reception ( ! fill+ mu* bett] ?an ! o!r1 s t at "o side ( ! web ! fill+ w hug ! edge wire1 %[n at ,w 9 ,fig4 #f;,a1 :ile at ! o!r side ( ! web ! failure to get a good cle>ance prev5ts ! fill+ gett+ s snugly ar\nd ! wire4 ,!re=e1 z ! web draws away f ! edge wire 9 ! process ( weav+1 ! t5d5cy is = "o selvage rubb] cavity to be small1 :ile ! o!r is l>ge1 :i* means t at ! op5 side !re is a fre$om = contraction ( ! edge rubb] :i* is n pres5t at ! o!r side1 & a long-sid$ unev5 web is ! result4 ,,mak+ ,a ,,good ,,selvage ,to c\nt]act ?is x is ess5tial t great c>e %\ld be tak5 to get a good cle>ance ( ! %$4 ,! %$ %\ld be tim$ z e>ly z possible1 s z to give e p>ticle ( fibre on ! w>p a good *ance to sep>ate & cle> itself4 ,:5 space p]mits1 ! front re$ %\ld be set slightly ov] on "o side ( ! re$ space1 s z to create a little long] pull on ! fill+ z x draws f ! %uttle on ! op5 side1 & correspond+ly eases up ! draw ( ! fill+ on ! o!r side4 ,! w>p /ock us$1 h[ev]1 may be ( su* a "* t ! loose fibre on x makes ev5 ^! precautions ineffective altoge!r to c\nt]act ! tr\ble1 & x may !n become advisable to put 9 a f9e edge wire on ! op5 side ( ! web to (fset ! creep+ t5d5cy ( ! selvage rubb] ?read :5 contraction takes place aft] ! web comes ?r\gh ! press rolls4 ,! feature :i* is aim$ at1 & :i* is mo/ desirable 9 ! appe>ance ( su* goods1 is a clean cut prom95t rib at ! rubb] l9e1 & ! avoidance ( a flat pap]-l look & feel ( ! web g5]ally4 ,! prom95ce ( ! rib v>ies1 ( c\rse1 accord+ to ! size ( ! rubb] ?read us$1 & ! b9d] w>p employ$ 9 divid+ ! same1 b ev5 ! v be/ ( conditions may be spoil$ if prop] c>e is n tak5 to get all ! prom95ce ( rib possible4 ,use z f9e a b9d] w>p z is practicable1 comp5sat+ = any loss ( weight or excess ( contraction by us+ a heavi] gut1 :i* aga9 ( itself helps to fill 9 ! rubb] cavity & !reby l5ds additional prom95ce to ! rib4 ,all ! weight possible %\ld be c>ri$ on ! b9d] w>p up to a po9t ( safety1 & c>e %\ld be tak5 to get a v easy1 uni=m deliv]y ( ! w>p f ! beam s z to avoid any erratic j]ky movem5t ( ! w>p lev]4 ,! w>p beams :i* are us$ on ?is delicate type ( "w %\ld be well balanc$ & true to c5t]1 & ! flanges free f any irregul>ity :i* w\ld 9 any way int]f]e ) ! easy & uni=m op]ation ( ! w>p lev]4 ,! gut1 :i* weaves 9 ) ! rubb] ?read1 is us$ = ! two-fold purpose ( giv+ additional body to ! fabric & ( regulat+ 9 a measure ! l5g? ( /ret* 9 ! goods4 ,! m gut !re is us$1 ! less becomes ! p[] ( contraction ( ! rubb] w>p1 & ! %ort] ! /ret* produc$4 ,aside f ! f95ess & body ( ! goods1 ! elem5t ( /ret* l>gely gov]ns ! m>ket value ( ! fabric1 s t good judgm5t & great c>e mu/ be ex]cis$ 9 ! assembl+ ( ! diff]5t sizes ( y>ns us$4 ,weft1 b9d] & gut all play _! "p 9 ! gov]n+ ( ! /ret*1 z also does ! numb] ( picks put 9 ! goods4 ,any excess ( weight on ! b9d] w>p also mat]ially r$uces ! /ret*4 ,9 fact1 any "o ( ^! features1 wrongly adju/$1 may result 9 ! diff]5ce betwe5 ! pr(it & loss4 ,9 mak+ ! selvage ( ^! goods a h>d /eel wire is us$1 ar\nd :i* ! fill+ passes at ea* pick4 ,?is wire1 %[n at ,w 9 ,fig4 #f;,a1 is highly temp]$ piano wire1 ( ! v be/ quality obta9able4 ,%>p5$ to a ne$le po9t at "o end1 ) a loop turn$ at ! o!r end1 x is fa/5$ at ! back ( ! loom by a cord :i* has an adju/able slip knot1 s z to be able easily & quickly to regulate ! l5g? ( wire runn+ 9 ! web4 ,x is !n pass$ ?r\gh a h>ness h$dle eye on ! rubb] or gut %aft1 & ?r\gh a re$ space next outside ! selvage rubb] ?read4 ,! con/ant we> ( ?is wire on ! re$ d5t makes x necess>y to h ?is d5t ( h>d5$ /eel s z to )/& ! con/ant we> ( ! wire1 :i* is always be+ cr[d$ aga9/ ! d5t by ! nipp+ action ( ! fill+ z x draws aga9/ ! wire 9 ! process ( weav+1 & ! repeat$ beat at ! same place 9 ! d5t at ! weav+ l9e4 ,9 any ev5t1 aft] a %ort "t ! d5ts 9 ! re$ w be cut s t x becomes necess>y to frequ5tly replace !m ) new ones1 & = ?is reason x %\ld be s arrang$ t !y c be easily & quickly remov$ f & replac$ 9 ! re$s4 ,,! ,,lisle ,,web ,! lisle web1 be+ p]fectly pla91 is simil> 9 g5]al "* to ! loom web1 except t x is made ) high grade comb$ & gass$ y>ns = ! fill+ 9 place ( *eap] /ock us$ on ! loom webs1 & is wov5 ) f\r ?reads = ! b9d] w>p betwe5 ea* /r& ( rubb]1 in/ead ( two z 9 ! loom web4 ,! h>ness draft ( ! "o-half in* lisle web %[n at ,fig4 #g1 toge!r ) ! weave1 is %[n at ,fig4 #g;,a4 ,! con/ruction is z foll[s3 ,b9d]1 #cf ends #hj_/b2 gut1 #h ends #dj_/b2 rubb]1 #aj ends #cbs2 re$1 #ba d5t2 picks1 #gh p] in*2 /ret*1 #ge p] c5t4 ,x w be se5 t all ! b9d] ?reads op]ate two up & two d[n1 b *ange at ea* pick 9 rotation1 mak+ ! repeat e f\r picks ( ! loom4 ,9 a weave ( ?is "* ! *anges ( ! h>ness are di/ribut$ uni=mly at ea* pick1 ?us mak+ x mu* easi] to get uni=m conditions on ea* selvage4 ,x diff]s f ! loom web 9 ?is respect1 :]e ! alt]nat+ light & heavy pick has to be cont5d$ )4 ,l ! loom webs1 prom95ce ( ! rib ov] ! rubb] ?read is ! ma9 feature aim$ at 9 ! g5]al appe>ance ( ! fabrics1 & !re=e ev]y?+ possible %\ld be done :i* w emphasize ?is4 ,! b9d] w>p mu/ be ( f9e y>ns1 & ! w>p mu/ be weight$ s z to cut ! w>p l9e d[n %>p & cle> up to a po9t ( safety1 be+ c>eful at ! same "t n to g to excess s z to n>r[ 9 ! goods or cause undue *af+ ( ! rubb] w>p4 ,! y>n mo/ g5]ally us$ = fill+ is #bf-b comb] & gass$ high grade /ock1 ( ab\t #ae turns p] in*4 ,x %\ld be a well-r\nd$ l(ty y>n s z to obta9 all ! cov]+ prop]ty possible4 ,x %\ld be spun ) ! utmo/ uni=mity1 z ! slighte/ irregul>ity 9 ! y>n w be noticeable 9 ! goods4 ,! dye+ & blea*+ ( ! y>n us$ = fill+ is also ( ! greate/ importance4 ,x is n an unusual occurr5ce to f9d o!rwise p]fect goods made unm>ketable z fir/ class by ! use ( a fill+ y>n :i* has n be5 prop]ly process$4 ,?is faulty condition ( ! y>n may be caus$ 9 a v>iety ( ways2 su* z an irregul> boil1 poor circulation ( liquor 9 ! ki]1 irregul> dry+1 etc4 ,ev5 :5 ! color appe>s to be p]fect1 poor process+ w (t5 prev5t ! smoo? runn+ ( ! y>n f ! %uttle1 caus+ x to drag & ?us create irregul> & crook$ selvages :i* result 9 ! repeat$ break+ ( ! selvage rubb] ?reads & ru9 ! goods4 ,! _m difficulties ( ?is "* :i* 7 enc\nt]$ :5 ske9 y>n 0 m g5]ally us$ = fill+ l$ to ! introduction & almo/ g5]al use ( w>p y>ns = fill+ purposes1 inasmu* z ! me?od ( process+ ! w>p y>ns gives results :i* are n ne>ly s v>iable4 ,fur!rmore ! long unbrok5 runs ( ?read obta9able by quill+ avoid ! _m knots :i* are pres5t :5 us+ ske9 y>n4 ,knots are unsightly & objectionable :5 appe>+ on ! face ( ! goods4 ,*af$ & brok5 edge rubb] ?reads1 h[ev]1 are n always ! result ( ! conditions nam$1 by any means1 b may be caus$ by a v>iety ( o!r ?+s4 ,n infrequ5tly ! edge wire may be weav+ too long 9 ! web s z n to draw out freely4 ,sometimes x may be a b5t wire t causes ! tr\ble1 or x may be ! rubb] roll+ ar\nd ! wire4 ,_m times defects are caus$ by ! edge wire hav+ cut into ! d5t1 s t x has a file-l effect z ! rubb] ?read passes by 9 weav+4 ,all ^! ?+s require look+ into1 & :5 tr\ble comes ! cause %\ld be f\nd & n guess$ at4 ,,fr5* ,,web ,,or ,,railroad ,,weave ,ano!r pla9 web :i* has atta9$ consid]able popul>ity1 & :i* is a k9d ( int]m$iate grade betwe5 ! loom web & ! lisle1 is :at is kn[n z ! ,fr5* web or railroad weave1 %[n at ,fig4 #h4 ,9 almo/ all respects ! g5]al treatm5t ( ?is web is ! same z already describ$1 & x diff]s only 9 ! draft1 :i* is %[n at ,fig4 #h;,a4 ,x all[s = ! use ( a some:at f9] y>n ?an is g5]ally employ$ 9 ! loom web1 & ! draft *anges at e two cords1 :i* gives x a peculi> 8r[ey0 appe>ance f :i* x d]ives ! "n ( railroad weave4 ,!re is "o feature associat$ ) all ^! pla9 webs :i* x might be well to speak (4 ,! high t5sion at :i* x is necess>y to "w ! rubb] w>p1 toge!r ) ! light weight requir$ on ! cotton w>p & ! cr[d+ toge!r ( ! pick+1 creates a t5d5cy = ! goods to reb\nd at ! front re$1 accompani$ by a backw>d & =w>d slid+ movem5t :5 pass+ ov] ! rod at ! brea/ beam4 ,?is movem5t is liable to poli% ! goods1 :i* is an objectionable feature4 ,to c\nt]act ?is x is advisable to let ! web pass ov] a small1 felt-cov]$ wood tube1 :i* revolves & responds to ! movem5t ( ! b\nd+ web4 ,9 ?is way !re is no friction to glaze or poli% ! web & int]f]e ) ! bloom ( ! y>n4 ,! same poli% w occur z ! goods pass ?r\gh ! press rolls1 unless !y are felt cov]$4 ,,cable ,,web ,! mo/ popul> web n[ made up into m5's g>t]s is :at is kn[n z ! cable web1 %[n at ,fig4 #i4 ,) ! pron\nc$ prom95ce ( ! two-d5t rib1 :i* gives x a "* peculi>ly diff]5t f ! pla9 web1 x is well adapt$ to ?is class ( goods4 ,simple 9 appe>ance1 x nev]!less requires special c>e to manufacture1 p>ticul>ly :5 we rememb] t x is n unusual to be requir$ to make a f9i%$ /ret* ( n less ?an #ajj p] c5t4 ,! h>ness draft & weave are %[n at ,fig4 #i;,a4 ,! con/ruction is z foll[s3 ,b9d]1 #cd ends #hj_/b2 ,gut1 #bd ends #bj_/b2 ,rubb]1 #ah ends #bhs2 ,re$1 #bj d5t2 ,picks1 #hj p] in*2 ,/ret*1 #ajj p] c5t4 ,! fill+1 float+ across ! wide spaces "u :i* lie ! rubb] ?reads 9 pairs1 is v easily ?r[n out ( place1 ! result ( :i* may be an unsightly se]suck] appe>ance1 z %[n 9 ,fig4 #aj1 :i* ! process ( f9i%+ aggravates r ?an corrects4 ,tr\ble may manife/ itself by ! fill+ ov] ! ribs op5+ up & all[+ ! gut ?reads to prick ?r\gh4 ,to prev5t ?is objectionable feature x is necess>y to use a good quality ( mod]ately s(t y>n = ! gut1 n necess>ily ( high grade /ock1 b a y>n :i* is uni=mly spun & n at all h>d or wiry4 ,z ^! goods are be+ wov5 & on full /ret*1 ! gut ?reads1 ( c\rse1 are p]fectly /raight & accurate 9 l9e1 b :5 contraction takes place1 to probably "o-half ! =m] l5g?1 ^! heavy ?reads1 :i* =m probably ab\t #be p] c5t4 ( ! weight ( ! entire web1 %\ld b5d or fold uni=mly & dispose ( !mselves 9 su* a mann] z n to appe> 9 any way on ! face ( ! web1 snugly h\s$ away 9 ! sev]al pockets or cavities4 ,if ! y>n compos+ ^! gut ?reads is spotty or irregul>ly spun1 ?is uni=mity ( fold inside ! pockets w be brok5 up & ! appe>ance ( ! face ( ! goods is likely to be m>r$ by unsightly specks ( cotton prick+ ?r\gh1 :i* c be bo? se5 & felt4 ,,*apt] ,,iv4 ,elaboration ( ,honeycomb ,effects by ,p>ti-,dy$ & ,pr9t$ ,fill+s--,b&age & ,surgical ,webs ,made ) ,pla9 & ,cov]$ ,rubb]--,frill ,web ,wov5 on ,cam ,looms--,d\ble ,clo?s--,importance ( ,secur+ ,balance ,betwe5 ,back & ,face ( ,goods ,among ! gr\p ( s+le clo? webs conf9$ to ! capacity ( pla9 looms1 is :at is commonly kn[n z ! honeycomb1 %[n at ,fig4 #a & ,fig4 #a;,a4 ,?is is g5]ally made ) silk1 wood silk1 or s*appe fill+4 ,! smoo? fill+ float+ ov] two cords gives ! web a smoo? feel1 !re be+ no rib effect noticeable :atev]1 mak+ x well adapt$ = a f9e trade4 ,! w>p l9es are almo/ entirely hidd5 by ! fill+1 s t x is n practicable to introduce any %>p /ripe fancy effects1 :i* c be done bo? 9 ! pla9 web & ! cable4 ,! honeycomb is ?us conf9$ to pla9 solid colors or su* elaboration z c be obta9$ f ! fill+4 ,fancy effects are (t5 secur$ by dye+ ske9 y>n 9 two or m colors4 ,su* y>ns :5 wov5 9 ! goods produce alt]nat+ effects at regul> di/ances 9 diff]5t colors1 su* di/ances be+ gov]n$ by ! l5g? ( ! dips & ! wid? ( ! goods4 ,! effects :i* c be produc$ are q v>i$4 ,! simple/ way ( accompli%+ ?is is to use ! regul> #ed-;in* ske91 hav+ :ite or "s light %ade z a base1 & !n dye+ a giv5 portion ( ! ske9 ano!r color4 ,?is process is c>ri$ out by hang+ ! ske9s on /icks plac$ 9 a rack at ! requir$ di/ance above ! color liquor1 & !n l[]+ !m into ! vat & dye+ ! imm]s$ "p 9 ! usual mann]4 ,:]e cotton is us$ = ! fill+ & m elaborate effects are desir$1 long reel$ ske9s are us$1 sometimes #ajh or #baf in*es1 :i* h be5 reel$ on specially design$ collapsible reels4 ,su* ske9s are n practicable to h&le 9 ! dye h\se 9 ! mann] already describ$4 ,sections ( su* ske9s are wrapp$ 9 heavy wat]pro( pap] & ti$ tightly1 s t ! dye liquor _c p5etrate t portion1 & !n ! :ole is put 9 ! liquor1 :5 ! expos$ "p only w be dy$4 ,!n aga9 sometimes wood clamps are us$1 l t %[n at ,fig4 #b1 hav+ a recess into :i* "p ( ! ske9 is laid aft] be+ c>efully fold$4 ,! two halves are clamp$ toge!r tightly 9 su* a mann] t ! dye _c p5etrate ! clamp$ "p ( ! ske9 :ile ! "p left outside ! clamp is dy$ :5 ! :ole is imm]s$ 9 ! dye liquor4 ,,pr9t$ ,,fill+ ,ano!r =m ( elaboration us$ 9 su* goods is pr9t+ ! ske9 y>n us$ = ! fill+4 ,?is is done by us+ a ma*9e hav+ a pair ( flut$ brass pr9t+ rolls1 "o ( :i* is made to op5 on a h+e l a gate s t a ske9 ( y>n c be put ar\nd x4 ,?is roll] is !n clos$ to its orig9al position1 s t ) ! two roll]s p>allel & close toge!r1 & ! ske9 ( y>n hugg$ tightly betwe5 !m1 ! turn+ ( ! roll]s impr9ts color on ! ske94 ,! ske9 is !n tak5 out & dry$ be=e spool+4 ,diff]5t sets ( rolls are us$ s z to get f9e & co>se effects & v>i\s colors are us$ 9 pr9t+4 ,:]e plaid or pr9t$ fill+s are us$ = ! elaboration ( webs ( ! honeycomb type1 x is n unusual to introduce a c\ple ( pla9 cords 9 ! c5t] ( ! web1 or possibly on ei!r side1 s z to break up ! flatness ( ! weave4 ,?is op5s up ! opportunity ( us+ l9es ( a diff]5t color 9 ! w>p :i* prop]ly arrang$ w produce a plaid-l effect4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #a4--;,honeycomb ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #a;,a4--,h>ness ,draft & ,weave = ,honeycomb4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #b4--;,clamp ,us$ = ,dy+ ,p>ti-,color$ ,ske9s ,,b&age ,,webs ,!re is q a l>ge dem& = surgical & b&age webs1 ,fig4 #c1 9 wid?s rang+ f #b to #d in*es4 ,^! webs are us$ = b9d+ ! limbs & o!r purposes & are 9 ! pure :ite or natural y>ns4 ,!y require to be made ) a long s(t easy /ret*4 ,an op5 re$ ( ab\t #ab d5ts p] in* is employ$4 ,f\r ?reads are g5]ally us$ = ! b9d]1 weav+ two up & two d[n4 ,! goods are simil> 9 con/ruction to a regul> lisle web1 except t ! gut is omitt$ 9 ord] to get ! easie/ possible movem5t4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #c4--;,b&age ,webs2 ,fabric at ,left ,made ) ,pla9 ,rubb]2 ,web at ,"r ,made ,) ,cov]$ ,rubb] ,! y>n is g5]ally ! same quality & size = bo? w>p & fill+1 & is usually a s(t spun #b-bjs4 ,! side ( rubb] is g5]ally ab\t #ch or #dj1 ) #dj picks p] in* & a f9i%$ /ret* ( #ajj p] c5t4 ,! use su* webs are put to1 necessitat+ z we h already said a s(t & sluggi% /ret*1 prev5ts ! use ( a heavy rubb] ?read1 ! result be+ t :5 ! b&age is kept 9 close contact ) ! w>m body1 ! life ( ! f9e rubb] is ( %ort duration4 ,?is condition1 & ! op5 weave necess>y to get ! easy /ret*1 h made x exp$i5t to use 9 _m ( ^! goods /r&s ( rubb] :i* h be5 cov]$ ) cotton ?reads be=e weav+4 ,?is process n only prolongs ! life ( ! web1 b all[s = ev5 m op5 weav+1 ! use ( diff]5t weaves ?an w\ld be possible :]e ! uncov]$ rubb] ?read is us$1 & ! production ( a fabric m suitable = ! purpose4 ,9 ord] to get ! s(t easy /ret* :i* is ! mo/ desirable *>act]i/ic ( a b&age web1 & yet h ! necess>y wid?1 x is n unusual to introduce a se]suck] effect1 z %[n 9 ,fig4 #d1 9 sections ( ! web s z to r$uce ! /rong ela/icity ( ! :ole4 ,9 an ord9>y cotton clo? ! se]suck] or cr9kle effect is usually produc$ by ! use ( a sep>ate w>p ( heavi] y>n ?an ! re/ ( ! fabric1 :i* w>p mu/ be weight$ diff]5tly & (t5 a diff]5t weave is employ$ to emphasize ! contra/ 9 ! puck]$ se]suck] effect4 ,9 ! ela/ic web all ?is special prep>ation is unnecess>y4 ,:]ev] ! se]suck] /ripe is desir$1 /r&s ( rubb] are left out :i* ( c\rse takes away f ^! portions t elem5t :i* contracts ! o!r "p ( ! web1 & a se]suck] effect is ! result4 ,su* /ripes are (t5 us$ = ! ornam5tation ( "s webs by hav+ n>r[ sections introduc$ = bord] effects1 or runn+ d[n ! c5t]1 & 9 fact !y may be employ$ 9 a v>iety ( ways1 inasmu* z !y l5d !mselves effectively to diff]5t =ms ( color+1 9 relief to ! ma9 fabric4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #d4--,se]suck] ,effect ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #e4--;,frill ,web ,made on ,cam ,loom ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #f4--,pla9 ,web ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #f;,a4--,h>ness ,draft & ,weave = ,fig4 #f1 ,simple/ ,=m ( ,d\ble ,clo? ,9 pass+ x might be well to note t :]e x is necess>y to use cov]$ rubb] ?reads special arrangem5ts are requir$ = mak+ ! w>ps1 z ! cov]$ ?read _c be h&l$ l ! ord9>y ?read4 ,! spools are plac$ 9 a rack :i* is requir$ = ea* w>p4 ,arrangem5ts h be5 made s t to ea* spool is atta*$ a special head1 :i* c be weight$ ei!r by a lev] brake or weight atta*$ to a cord runn+ 9 a groove on ! auxili>y head4 ,by ?is arrangem5t uni=m deliv]y ( ! ?reads c be made to ! w>p beam s z to avoid any puck]+ caus$ by irregul> w>p+4 ,,frill ,,web ,,on ,,cam ,,loom ,9 s+le clo? webs z already /at$1 ! scope = ornam5tal effects is necess>ily limit$4 ,! bulk ( su* webs1 p>ticul>ly ^? made ) a wire edge1 are = ! mo/ "p pla94 ,!re is a type ( g>t] web1 h[ev]1 *>act]iz$ z 8frill0 & %[n at ,fig4 #e1 :i* may be made )9 ! n>r[ limitation ( cam looms1 al?\gh ! frill feature is m g5]ally us$ 9 connection ) m elaborate fancy effects4 ,! frill "p is practically a section ( non-ela/ic ( any desir$ wid? wov5 on to a section ( ela/ic1 :i* likewise may be ( v>iable wid?4 ,! /r&s ( rubb] us$ 9 ! c5tral section1 be+ wov5 "u t5sion1 contract ?is portion ( ! fabric aft] x leaves ! press rolls4 ,! side sections hav+ no rubb] 9 !m d n contract1 b frill up uni=mly on ei!r side ( ! web 9 regul> flut$ folds4 ,no wire is requir$ = ! selvage :5 a frill is made1 & ! t5sion ( ! fill+ is adju/$ s z to hug ! outside ?reads ( ! frill w>p & make a neat selvage )\t n>r[+ x 9 beyond ! wid? ( ! re$ space occupi$ by ! w>p4 ,! frill "p mu/ be on a sep>ate w>p1 ap>t f ! b9d] ?reads :i* are us$ 9 ! c5tral section4 ,! ela/ic section is made 9 ! regul> mann] already describ$ = webs ( f\r h>ness capacity4 ,! frill is likewise con/ruct$ f ! same h>nesses1 b ! draft is s arrang$ t two ( ! h>nesses are us$ = "o frill & two = ! o!r4 ,?is arrangem5t is made 9 ord] t ! fill+ may only be b\nd 9 alt]nat+ picks on ! frill "p1 :]eas 9 ! body x is b\nd at e pick4 ,?is me?od makes ! frill s(t & pliable1 s t x readily responds to ! contraction :i* takes place 9 ! body "p1 & ?us makes = regul>ity 9 ! =mation ( ! folds4 ,%\ld an exceptionally f9e frill be desir$1 ! same two h>nesses are us$ = ! frill at ei!r side1 & ! fill+ is b\nd or wov5 9 at ea* passage ( ! %uttle4 ,:]ev] ?is me?od is employ$1 h[ev]1 x becomes necess>y to use a mu* f9] y>n = ! frill w>p1 or a few] numb] ( ?reads spread ov] ! front re$ 9 ! frill4 ,if su* precautions are n tak5 ! frill w be h>% & /iff & w n fold uni=mly z ! c5t] contracts4 ,x may ev5 ret>d ! desir$ contraction ( ! body4 ,x is n advisable 9 mak+ frill webs to use a regul> front re$ hav+ ! same spac+ ( d5ts all across4 ,!re is a liability ( gett+ a co>se look+ frill1 %[+ up ! m>ks ( ! re$ d5ts4 ,! plan m desirable is to use a re$ ) ! d5ts requir$ = ! frill "p ( ! fabric spac$ v mu* f9] ?an ^? us$ = ! body1 g5]ally 9 ! ratio ( two to "o1 s t ! frill ?reads may be ev5ly di/ribut$ 9 ribbon-l =mation & n %[ ! co>se l9es ( ! d5ts4 ,occasional calls are made = webs hav+ a frill on "o selvage only4 ,9 ?is case x becomes necess>y to use an edge wire on ! side hav+ no frill1 & exceptional c>e mu/ be tak5 9 ?is class ( goods to produce ! prop] balance4 ,a s(t frill is requir$ & a limit$ contraction ( ! body "p4 ,,d\ble ,,clo? ,,webs ,our rem>ks s f> h be5 conf9$ exclusively to s+le clo? webs ( a simple "*1 :]e1 ap>t f ! rubb] & gut !re is only "o w>p us$1 & :]e bo? back & face ( ! web are alike4 ,we w n[ turn our att5tion to :at are kn[n z d\ble clo? webs1 :]e two di/9ct clo?s are wov51 "o = ! face & "o = ! back1 ea* work+ indep5d5tly ( ! o!r1 b ti$ toge!r by ano!r w>p kn[n z ! b9d]1 or else ! two clo?s int]lock ea* o!r 9 su* a mann] z to b9d !m toge!r )\t ! assi/ance ( ano!r w>p4 ,by ?is me?od ( weav+ mu* ?ick] & heavi] webs may be produc$ ) a limitation ( ela/icity :i* _c be obta9$ by ! s+le clo? me?od4 ,! weaves & mat]ials employ$ 9 ! face & back ( ! goods may be id5tical1 or weaves ( a diff]5t "* & /ock ( diff]5t qualities1 sizes & colors may be us$4 ,fancy effects may be us$ to embelli% ! face1 :ile ! back may be p]fectly pla9 & free f any color+ :atev]4 ,!re are c]ta9 features associat$ ) ! con/ruction ( d\ble clo? webs :i* make !m entirely diff]5t to deal )4 ,! diff]5t weaves & ! diff]5t /ock employ$ necessitate splitt+ up ! w>ps into sections to accommodate su* conditions4 ,a sep>ate w>p is requir$ = bo? back & face & also "o = ! b9d]1 :i* deliv]s a mu* great] l5g? ( w>p ?an ei!r1 necessitat$ by ! "* ( ! weave us$ 9 b9d+ ! upp] & l[] clo?s toge!r4 ,a sep>ate w>p is also requir$ = ! gut1 :i* goes 9 ! web p]fectly /raight & is %ort] 9 l5g? ?an any ( ! o!r sections4 ,su* goods also require a special w>p = ! selvage1 s t 9 ! simple/ =m ( su* webs a bank ( five w>ps is necess>y4 ,on fancy goods ! introduction ( fancy w>ps may add to ?is numb]4 ,,balance ,,betwe5 ,,back ,,& ,,face ,! elem5t ( a "r balance betwe5 ! back & face has to be consid]$1 & if c>e be n tak5 9 ! prop] adju/m5t ( ! /ock ! result may be t "o side ( ! goods w ass]t control ov] ! o!r 9 su* a mann] z to prev5t x ly+ flat & ev54 ,:5 su* a web is cut x w curl up s z to be almo/ uncontrollable4 ,su* a condition may arise f a v>iety ( causes4 ,if ! weaves ( ! face & back clo?s are id5tical !n x w be necess>y to h ! face & back w>ps ( ! same size y>n or its equival5t4 ,= in/ance1 %\ld ! face be a f\r-?read pla9 & #dj_/b is us$1 & ! back only two ?reads1 !n ! y>n us$ = ! back w>p mu/ be #bj_/b s z to equal ! f\r ?reads ( #dj_/b 9 ! face4 ,%\ld1 h[ev]1 ! face be a m op5 weave ?an ! back1 !n an equal weight ( y>n 9 bo? clo?s w n be "r1 & x w be necess>y to use y>n ( a heavi] weight = ! face to comp5sate = ! fre$om ( ! m op5 weave & effect a prop] balance ) ! m tightly wov5 back4 ,!re c be no fix$ rule to apply to ?is1 & only exp]i5ce w indicate ! prop] relation%ip betwe5 ! two4 ,9 ,figs4 #f & #f;,a are %[n ! simple/ =m ( d\ble clo?1 kn[n z a pla9 web4 ,by c>efully foll[+ ! weave x w be se5 t :ile ! face weaves #c up & #a d[n1 & ! back #a up & #c d[n1 ! fill+ w appe> bo? on ! face & back ( ! goods z #a up & #a d[n4 ,if ! b9d] 0 n !re x w\ld be a tubul> web1 hav+ ! same appe>ance all ar\nd4 ,! b9d]1 h[ev]1 int]sects ! upp] & l[] clo?s at ea* pick & b9ds ! two toge!r 9 "o complete :ole1 :ile ! rubb] lies betwe5 ! two1 ea* /r& be+ sep>at$ by ! int]lock+ b9d] ?reads4 ,x becomes necess>y 9 ord] prop]ly to connect ! upp] & l[] clo?s at _! extreme edges to use a selvage w>p1 :i* z w be se5 9 ,fig4 #f;,a is drawn 9 on all f\r face & back h>nesses1 & ! ?reads ( :i* are arrang$ s z to complete ! weave all ar\nd4 ,to d ?is x w be se5 t !re is an odd ?read at "o side1 o!rwise ! weave at ?is po9t w\ld %[ two ?reads op]at+ toge!r next to ea* o!r1 & w\ld break up ! cont9uity ( ! weave4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #g4--,me?od ( ,bank+ a ,set ( ,w>ps = ,d\ble ,clo? ,webs ,! selvage plays an important "p 9 ! /ructure & weav+ ( ! web4 ,x =ms ! pocket = cov]+ 9 :i* lies ! outside rubb] ?reads1 & x mu/ be s arrang$ t ^! ?reads c function prop]ly s z to make a piece ( goods t w lie flat4 ,9 ! fir/ place ! y>n mu/ be ( su* a size t ) ! prop] numb] ( ?reads employ$ ! selvage w contract uni=mly ) ! body ( ! goods1 s t ! web w n 8frill0 on acc\nt ( a too heavy selvage1 or 8belly0 because x is too light4 ,,c>e ,,= ,,selvage ,! ?reads mu/ be prop]ly divid$ 9 ! front re$ s z to make a good cle>ance = ! fill+1 :i* o!rwise w\ld 8nib0 up & make an unsightly selvage4 ,!n aga91 a c>eful adju/m5t ( ! weight c>ri$ on ! selvage w>p mu/ be made s z to accommodate x to ! requisite t5sion ( ! fill+ z x is deliv]$ f ! %uttle1 o!rwise ! edge rubb] ?reads w be liable to *afe & cut (f :5 /ra9$ out ( prop] alignm5t ) ! front re$4 ,x w be obs]v$ 9 ! draft t two rubb] ?reads are us$ 9 ea* selvage1 :i* is necess>y 9 ord] to control ! additional y>n us$ 9 ! con/ruction ( ! selvage4 ,,*apt] ,v4 ,?ree ,leaf ,twill or ,sat9 ,face ,wov5 9 ,conjunction ) ,pla9 ,back--,position ( ,back ,rolls 9 ,relation to ,h>ness ,%$--,use ( ,f\r ,leaf ,twill--,fill+ ,fancy ,effects & ,/it* ,figures--,int]*ang+ ,figure & ,face ,turn+ our att5tion f pla9 webs to comb9ation weaves1 we w take up :at is popul>ly kn[n z ! ?ree-leaf twill1 or sat9 face1 wov5 9 conjunction ) a pla9 back4 ,?is is a type ( web n only us$ = susp5d]s1 b employ$ ext5sively = corset g>t] atta*m5ts also4 ,a web ( ?is "* :5 prop]ly con/ruct$ has a smoo? velvet-l face4 ,! ?reads are uni=mly di/ribut$ across ! wid? )\t %[+ any ( ! 8r[y0 effect f ! b9d] w>ps1 :i* are completely hidd5 by ! heavy pile produc$ by ! float ( ! face ?reads4 ,:5 ! contraction ( ! web takes place1 ^! float+ face ?reads mass toge!r 9 a velvet-l pile1 n only produc+ a smoo? h&l+ web b mat]ially increas+ ! ?ickness4 ,su* webs are g5]ally con/ruct$ ) a six-?read face & a f\r-?read back1 & h :at is t]m$ a r\nd edge1 simil> to ! selvage us$ on a pla9 web4 ,?is arrangem5t %[s up ! twill face by contra/ & gives ! fabric a mu* f9] appe>ance4 ,,h>ness ,,& ,,*a9 ,,draft ,fig4 #a %[s ! h>ness & *a9 draft ( su* a web1 toge!r ) ! con/ruction ( a prop]ly balanc$ web = /&>d goods ( #a in*es wide4 ,x w be notic$ t ! face1 consi/+ ( #aej ?reads1 is split up into two w>ps ( #ge ?reads ea*4 ,?is arrangem5t is necess>y 9 ord] prop]ly to weigh !m s z to get a good cle>ance 9 ! %$4 ,! w>p has to be divid$ likewise 9 ! h>nesses & put on six h>ness frames1 al?\gh ! weave c\ld be produc$ on ?ree4 ,x w\ld n be practicable to cr[d #ej ?reads on "o h>ness frame 9 ! n>r[ space available1 z ! h>ness eyes w\ld %\ld] & cr[d too mu* :5 *ang+4 ,9 draw+-9 ?is web1 "o face w>p %\ld be arrang$ s t ! ?reads are drawn on ! fir/1 ?ird & fif? h>nesses1 & ! o!r face w>p %\ld be on ! second1 f\r? & six?4 ,su* an arrangem5t 9 ! di/ribution ( ! w>ps makes x mu* easi] on ! me*anism1 & m9imizes ! risk ( breakages4 ,x is also important to make prop] divisions ( ! w>ps at ! back rolls1 inasmu* z "s ( ! w>ps h to be weight$ heavily :ile o!rs are only lightly weight$1 & also on acc\nt ( ! diff]5t take-up ( ! v>i$ weaves4 ,! back rolls %\ld be set 9 a grad$ position s z to prev5t undue friction ( "o w>p aga9/ ano!r4 ,! b9d] w>p %\ld be work$ "u ! front roll on acc\nt ( ! extremely light weight ?is mu/ c>ry4 ,fig4 #b %[s ! prop] position ( ! back rolls 9 relation to ! h>ness %$4 ,9 a web ( ?is "* :]e ! w>p /ock is some:at cr[d$ 9 ! front re$1 !re is always a t5d5cy = a fibr\s y>n to prev5t a p]fect cle>ance 9 ! %$1 ) a liability ( produc+ occasional floats ?r\gh ! %uttle skipp+ ^! ?reads4 ,su* floats w pe>l up :5 ! web contracts & make an imp]fect face4 ,?is tr\ble may be prev5t$ by sett+ ! back rolls a trifle high] ?an ! brea/ beam rod1 s t ! /ock 9 ! h>ness :i* is d[n w be slightly tight] ?an t :i* is 9 ! upp] h>ness4 ,! *a9 draft is s arrang$ t ! face h>ness w op]ate to produce a twill :i* w be rev]se to ! twi/ ( ! y>n employ$1 & ?us r$uce ! prom95ce ( ! twill weave all possible4 ,! fill+ y>n %\ld be s(t1 ( ab\t #ae turns p] in*1 & ( good uni=m quality1 9 ord] to produce a nice selvage & n cut ! rubb]4 ,! re$ d5t inside ! selvage rubb] %\ld be c>efully twi/$ at an angle to con=m to ! nipp$ 9 position to ! rubb] ?read1 s t ! outside edge ( ! d5t w n cut ! rubb] :5 ! re$ beats aga9/ ! goods at ! weav+ l9e4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #a4--,?ree ,leaf ,twill1 or ,sat9 ,face4 ,wov5 9 ,conjunction ,) a ,pla9 ,back ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #b4--,%[+ ,position ( ,back ,rolls 9 ,relation to ,%$ ,,use ,,( ,,co>s] ,,y>n ,a f9e look+ twill may be produc$ ) a some:at co>s] face y>n by us+ a five ?read$ face ov] a six-?read repeat4 ,?is is %[n 9 ! h>ness draft at ,fig4 #c4 ,9 non-ela/ic fabrics !re are available a v>iety ( twill & sat9 weaves = ! production ( s(t lu/r\s surfaces1 b ?is is n s 9 ela/ic webs1 z ! contraction ( ! goods aft] weav+ w\ld produce a ragg$1 spongy surface4 ,a float ( ?ree picks on ! face is ab\t ! limit x is practicable to g on an ela/ic web1 ) few exceptions1 & ev5 ?is only 9 connection ) f9e pick+4 ,,use ,,( ,,f\r ,,leaf ,,twill ,a f\r leaf twill1 h[ev]1 c be us$ to great advantage :5 a heavy body is desir$1 z = example :at is kn[n z 8f>m]'s web40 ,^! are usually made ab\t two in*es wide1 & to fur!r add to _! weight !y h :at is t]m$ a cu%ion back1 ! weave ( :i* is #g d[n & #a up4 ,! use ( ^! s(t weaves on bo? face & back1 :ile giv+ ! web great ?ickness on acc\nt ( ! deep velvet-l pile produc$1 deprives x ( mu* ( its firmness4 ,?is condition is met by ! introduction ( an auxili>y back w>p1 und]nea? ! ma9 back w>p1 weav+ #c d[n & #a up1 :i* knits ! upp] & l[] clo? m firmly toge!r1 ?us increas+ ! firmness ( h&les ( ! goods4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #c4--;,five ,?read ,face ,ov] #f ,d5t ,repeat ,ano!r web among ! pla9 loom products call+ = pass+ m5tion is t specially made = ! police & fireman's brace4 ,:ile ?is has a #g d[n & #a up cu%ion back simil> to ! f>m]'s web1 x diff]s 9 hav+ a smoo? pla9 face 9 place ( a twill4 ,?is arrangem5t ( comb9+ a pla9 face ) a cu%ion back necessitates selection ( ! sizes ( y>n us$ = ! v>i\s w>ps s z to ma9ta9 a prop] balance ( ! diff]5t weaves employ$ 9 ! face & back4 ,o!rwise ! goods w\ld curl up & x w\ld be impracticable to cut !m up = manufacture4 ,consid]ation mu/ also be giv5 to ! effect ( padd+ ! size ^u su* goods 9 ! f9i%+ process1 ( :i* we w say m lat]4 ,,fill+ ,,fancy ,,effects ,all ! webs s f> describ$ h be5 su* z c\ld be produc$ on cam looms ( v>i\s capacities4 ,we w n[ turn our att5tion to :at are g5]ally und]/ood z fancy effects4 ,x might be well to treat ^! "u two di/9ct head+s4 ,^? made ) ! %uttle1 or :at are call$ fill+ patt]ns1 & ^? made f ! w>p1 or :at are call$ /it* patt]ns4 ,! figures or fancy effects produc$ by float+ ! fill+ ov] sections ( ! w>p %[ up ! fill+ ) increas$ lu/] 9 contra/ to ! w>p4 ,!y are conf9$ to no p>ticul> "* ( design1 & may range f ! simple/ effect produc$ on ! fancy h>ness loom or dobby to ! m elaborate jacqu>d design4 ,! gr\nd or body may be ei!r pla9 or twill1 or any o!r acceptable weave suitable z a base = figur+1 :ile ! fill+ may be ( a contra/+ color1 ei!r ( silk or cotton z desir$4 ,! figure or design may be made f ! same %uttle us$ = ! gr\nd or x may be made by an auxili>y %uttle1 ei!r us$ z an ov]%ot or rise & fall1 accord+ to ! "* ( web desir$4 ,:]e ! figure is made f ! gr\nd %uttle x is produc$ z a sunk5 effect4 ,x is made by bury+ sections ( ! face w>p at int]vals s t 9 place ( ! face w>p ! fill+ is se5 at ^! po9ts4 ,no additional figure w>ps are requir$ = ?is class ( goods1 & elaborate designs are obta9able1 al?\gh !re is n ! scope = cross color+ t !re is 9 ! w>p figure me?od4 ,,/it* ,,fancy ,,patt]ns ,:5 ! design is made f ! w>p1 ! figure ?reads are made to float on ! face ( ! goods s t ^u contraction ( ! web aft] weav+1 ^! floats pe>l up 9 prom95ce above ! level ( ! face1 & make :at is t]m$ a /it* figure4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #d4--,po9t ,draw ,/it* ,figure ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #d;,a4--,h>ness & ,*a9 ,draft = ,fig4 #d ,x is n our purpose "h to p>ticul>ize 9 design1 :i* is practically unlimit$1 b only to ref] to ^? features :i* gov]n ! con/ruction & illu/rate z necess>y4 ,9 ord] to ma9ta9 a prop] balance :]e figures are introduc$ on s+le clo? weaves1 x is necess>y to di/ribute ! figure w>p uni=mly ov] bo? ! face & back ( ! goods s z to ma9ta9 a prop] balance betwe5 ! two4 ,9 ! d\ble clo? webs ! figure w>p1 :5 n appe>+ on ! face ( ! goods1 is all[$ to run /raight betwe5 ! upp] & l[] clo?s1 go+ 9 ! same cavity or pocket z ! rubb] ?reads1 & x works at ^! times z a gut4 ,?is1 ( c\rse1 9 a measure int]f]es ) ! contraction ( ! goods & has to be tak5 into consid]ation 9 ! con/ruction4 ,"h aga9 we mu/ note ! effect ( ! contraction 9 pil+ up ! float+-figure ?reads1 & ! necessity ( limit+ ! floats 9 mak+ ! design s z to avoid any ragg$ appe>ance4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #e4--;,int]*ang+ ,figure & ,face ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #e;,a4--,h>ness & ,*a9 ,draft = ,fig4 #e ,fig4 #d %[s a design ( ?is "*1 ) ! h>ness & *a9 draft at ,fig4 #d;,a4 ,9 ?is p>ticul> web !re are six h>nesses us$ = ! ma9 body & t5 = ! figure1 :i* is a po9t draw4 ,:ile ! figure is ev5ly di/ribut$ on ! web1 :]ev] x is n se5 x is runn+ betwe5 ! upp] & l[] clo?s1 z already describ$1 & act+ z a gut4 ,9 ord] to get a prop] balance ( ! web x is necess>y to put gut ?reads into ! two out] cords :]e no figure appe>s1 :i* mu/ be equival5t 9 size to ! figure ?reads employ$ 9 ea* ( ! #ba c5t] cords4 ,if ?is is n done ! web w contract unduly at ! edges & make x 8belly40 ,! me?od "h us$ ( bury+ ! figure betwe5 ! upp] & l[] clo?s :5 n ne$$ 9 c>ry+ out ! design1 af=ds opportunity = introduc+ additional w>p ?reads ( diff]5t colors1 s z to be able to br+ up ei!r "o color or ano!r z desir$ 9 a design4 ,z mo/ ( ! fancy head looms h n m ?an #ah h>nesses1 x w be se5 t ! scope ( design 9 ?is class ( loom is some:at limit$1 !re=e mu* +5uity is requir$ to get elaborate designs f su* limit$ capacity4 ,b c>eful /udy op5s up a v>iety ( me?ods by :i* a big range ( designs is possible4 ,,int]*ang+ ,,figure ,,& ,,face ,fig4 #e %[s ano!r type ( design kn[n z ! 8int]*ang+0 fancy 9 :i* ! figure w>p does n pile up above ! surface z x does 9 ! /it* figure1 b rema9s flat ) ! face ( ! web4 ,! h>ness & *a9 drafts are %[n at ,fig4 #e;,a4 ,9 ?is "* ( design a giv5 numb] ( face ?reads are duplicat$ by a l numb] ( figure ?reads1 ! same size ( y>n be+ us$ = bo?4 ,^! face & figure ?reads are drawn 9 duplicate h>nesses & op]at$ j rev]se to ea* o!r1 s t :5 ! figure is up at any p>ticul> "p1 ! int]*ang+ face ?reads are d[n1 & vice v]sa4 ,! figure weaves only ?ree picks up on ! *a9 draft1 :i* is "o face pick se5 on ! face clo?1 & ?is produces a p]fectly flat web4 ,ano!r =m ( elaboration is %[n 9 ?is web1 kn[n z ! 8picot0 edge4 ,x is g5]ally made ( a well cabl$ ?read ( silk & is wov5 9 ! selvage1 be+ b\nd 9 = sev]al picks & !n all[$ to float outside1 s t ^u ! contraction ( ! web x w pe>l out 9 small loops1 add+ mu* to ! elaboration ( ! web4 ,,*apt] ,,vi4 ,comb9ation ( ,weaves 9 a ,f9e ,web--,sunk5 ,effects ,made on ,head ,motion & ,jacqu>d ,looms--,employm5t ( ,m ,?an ,"o ,bank ( ,%uttles--,! ,ov]%ot ,me?od--,use ( ,diff]5t ,colors & ,grades ( ,/ock--,b9d+ ,long ,floats ,a v effective comb9ation ( weaves 9 a f9e web is se5 at ,fig4 #a4 ,! middle ( ?is web has = ! face a #g up & #a d[n weave1 b ! y>n & pick+ are f9e4 ,! y>n piles up j en\gh next to ! pla9 edge weave to set (f ! weaves 9 contra/ to ea* o!r4 ,x w be not$ t on ei!r side ( ! silk figure !re are two cords ) ! b9d] ?read left out betwe5 ea*1 :i* fur!r %>p5s up ! contra/4 ,! fancy effect is produc$ by ! use ( a heavy cabl$ cord1 ! two outside ?reads be+ ( rev]se twi/1 s t :5 !y pe>l up on contraction ( ! web1 "o turns to ! "r & ! o!r turns to ! left1 mak+ an effective bord]4 ,,sunk5 ,,effects ,an altoge!r diff]5t type ( figur+ is se5 9 ,figs4 #b & #c4 ,bo? ( ^! webs illu/rate :at is kn[n z ! sunk5 effect4 ,9 bo? cases ! face is a ?ree-leaf twill1 :i* "* ( weave is mo/ effective 9 hid+ ! fill+ b5ea? x4 ,!re=e1 ! figure may be work$ out 9 %>p contra/4 ,9 ,fig4 #b1 :i* is made on a fancy head loom1 x w be notic$ t ! face ?reads on ! fif? cord on ei!r side are left out 9 ord] to assi/ 9 ! c>ry+ out ( ! plaid effect aim$ at 9 ! figure4 ,x w also be se5 t ! face w>p is /rip$ 9 color4 ,! "* ( ! figure is su* t ! major "p ( ! face w>p is op]at$ 9 "o solid block1 mak+ x practicable to produce ?is on h>nesses work$ on a *a9 loom4 ,9 ! web illu/rat$ at ,fig4 #c1 ea* ?read is op]at$ 9 ! design indep5d5tly4 ,su* designs are only producible on a jacqu>d loom4 ,b inasmu* z ! ?reads us$ 9 =m+ ! figure are conf9$ to ! face w>p1 x is n necess>y to op]ate ! back or b9d] ?reads f ! jacqu>d4 ,x is m conv5i5t to h ^! work$ f ! cams or fancy head 9 comb9ation ) ! jacqu>d1 = ! reason t a tru] & cle>] %$ c be obta9$4 ,fur!rmore1 by hav+ ! back h>ness & ! jacqu>d op]at$ f two di/9ct movem5ts x becomes possible to "t !m diff]5tly s z to obta9 bett] results 9 ! cle>ance ( ! /ock 9 ! %$4 ,a #bjh hook ma*9e af=ds ample capacity = ! mak+ ( ^! goods1 all[+ = #bf r[s ( #h hooks ea*1 :i* w cov] ! requirem5ts ( ne>ly all classes ( web1 giv+ an entire r[ to ea* cord4 ,su* arrangem5ts w all[ = six hooks = ! face1 "o = ! b9d] & "o = ! gut on ea* r[4 ,?us x w be practicable to use diff]5t color$ ?reads = ! gut1 :i* may be br\ght up 9 ! design 9 relief effects to ! ma9 figure z requir$4 ,,calculation ,,= ,,figure ,,di/ribution ,9 ?is type ( figur+1 calculation mu/ be made to di/ribute ! figure uni=mly s z to get a well balanc$ flat effect ( ! web4 ,z already /at$1 :]ev] ! fill+ is %[n1 all ! face /ock at ^! po9ts is buri$ betwe5 ! upp] & ! l[] clo?s1 & is act+ z fill] or gut 9 ^! places1 prev5t+ contraction4 ,%\ld heavy blocks be ?us design$1 ! web w\ld puck] up 9 an unseemly mann]4 ,! fill+ us$ %\ld be s(t & uni=mly spun1 s t x w mass well toge!r & 9 a great measure prev5t ! buri$ face /ock f prick+ ?r\gh4 ,9 design+ webs ( ?is "*1 calculations h to be made f ! web aft] x is wov5 & f9i%$1 o!rwise ! design may be out ( ! desir$ proportion4 ,a web may h #fj picks p] in* on ! brea/ plate :ile weav+1 b :5 contraction has tak5 place aft] go+ ?r\gh ! press1 x may h %runk z mu* z #ej p] c5t4 ,! /eam+ & f9i%+ process may fur!r contract x ano!r #aj p] c5t4 :i* might make ! picks ab\t #ajj p] in*4 ,( ^! only "o-half appe> on ! face & ! o!r half on ! back4 ,!re=e #ej picks p] in* w be ! proportion 9 :i* ! design %\ld be made1 & pap] scal$ accord+ mu/ be us$4 ,,cross ,,%ot ,,weav+ ,we h s f> conf9$ our rem>ks to webs made on s+le %uttle looms4 ,turn+ our att5tion to ! use ( m ?an "o bank ( %uttles we w\ld fir/ make note ( :at is kn[n z ! cross %ot4 ,?is is a =m ( weav+ :i* l>gely increases ! output & has 9 x ! fur!r elem5t ( economy1 inasmu* z by ?is me?od ! rubb] w>p c be work$ at a mu* high] t5sion ?an by ! s+le %uttle me?od4 ,9 ! con/ruction ( s+le %uttle webs1 ! rubb] h>ness rises & falls at ea* passage ( ! %uttle across ! %$4 ,?is movem5t creates a friction on ! rubb] ?read at ! h>ness eye & an add$ friction at ! front re$ by its pass+ up & d[n 9 ! d5t4 ,friction is /ill fur!r increas$ by ! backw>d & =w>d movem5t ( ! lay1 :i* makes two su* passages to "o made by ! cross %ot4 ,9 ! cross %ot me?od1 ! rubb] rema9s /ation>y1 ) no upw>d & d[nw>d motion1 :i* enables ! rubb] ?read to be /ret*$ out to its extreme limit :ile weav+1 ) little dang] ( *af+ or break+4 ,ov] & "u ?is /ation>y rubb] are two di/9ct %$s1 "o mak+ ! upp] & ! o!r ! l[] clo?4 ,^! two fabrics are /it*$ toge!r by ! b9d] w>p1 :i* travels up & d[n ?r\gh bo? ( ^! %$s4 ,9 ord] to keep all ! w>p ?reads uni=mly tight :ile %$d+1 x is necess>y to run ^! "u sep>ate back rolls1 fix$ at diff]5t heights1 prop]ly c5t]+ ! upp] & l[] %$s ) ! h>ness & brea/ beams4 ,,position ,,( ,,rolls ,fig4 #d w expla9 ! position ( ! v>i\s rolls 9 relation to ! brea/ beam4 ,x w also %[ ! peculi> =mation ( ! %uttles us$ = ?is type ( weav+1 bo? po9t+ to "o common c5t]1 made necess>y by ! "* ( ! two %$s4 ,! b[ ( ! upp] %uttle mu/ be tipp$ d[nw>ds1 & ! l[] bank mu/ be tipp$ upw>ds1 s z to r$uce ! friction ( ! %uttles all possible :5 !y are pass+ ?r\gh ! %$s4 ,! r\nd edge or cov]+ = ! outside rubb] ?reads is drawn 9 ! h>ness on ! upp] %$1 & :ile be+ wov5 ?is clo? is pull$ ar\nd ! rubb]s by ! t5sion ( ! fill+ :i* is c>ri$ 9 ! l[] %uttle4 ,?is t5sion is great] ?an t c>ri$ 9 ! upp] %uttle1 & s ass]ts itself by pull+ ! edge clo? ar\nd ! outside rubb] until x meets ! back clo? weave4 ,! upp] & l[] fill+s are connect$ by :at are kn[n z tie ?reads4 ,^! ?reads are drawn 9 ! h>ness at ea* side ( ! body w>p1 next to ! edge1 & are "p ( ! b9d] w>p4 ,!y are op]at$ f ! b9d] h>ness1 b are only all[$ to travel ?r\gh ! l[] %$ z f> z ! c5t] ( ! web1 in/ead ( go+ all ?r\gh bo? %$s1 z d ! balance ( ! b9d] w>p4 ,?is movem5t is accompli%$ by ! use ( long loop$ h>ness eyes1 :i* only c>ry ^! p>ticul> ?reads ?r\gh ! "o %$4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #a4--;,effective ,comb9ation ( ,weaves ,9 a ,f9e ,web ,illu/ration3 ,figs4 #b & #c4--,sunk5 ,effects ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #a;,a4--,h>ness & ,*a9 ,draft = ,fig4 #a ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #d4--,position ( ,rolls 9 ,relation to ,brea/ ,beam = ,cross ,%ot ,weav+ ,! b9d] movem5t1 ext5d+ ?r\gh ! two %$s1 is =m$ by a long] sweep f extra ?r[ cams1 or by ! use ( ext5d$ cam jacks1 or by a comb9ation ( bo?4 ,! balance ( ^! goods may be regulat$ bo? by ! w>p & ! fill+1 & any t5d5cy t[>ds curl+ may be correct$ by *ang+ ! weight ( /ock us$ on ei!r4 ,,use ,,( ,,diff]5t ,,/ocks ,,& ,,colors ,! use ( upp] & l[] fill+s also all[s = ! use ( diff]5t grades ( /ock 9 ei!r %uttle4 ,colors may be us$ to mat* ! face w>ps :ile :ite may be c>ri$ 9 ! l[] %uttle to mat* ! back4 ,silk or o!r exp5sive /ock may be us$ = ! face )\t *ang+ ! "* ( ! /ock us$ = ! back ( ! goods1 :i* is n practicable 9 s+le %uttle "w4 ,all ?is ( c\rse makes x possible to r$uce ! co/1 mak+ ?is ! mo/ economical web produc$4 ,9 ! mak+ ( %oe gor+1 a consid]able quantity ( :i* is /ill us$ = ins]ts = h\se slipp]s1 ?is is a v popul> =m ( weav+1 all[+ = ! production ( a face hav+ a velvet-l pile ( ! color to mat* ! %oe lea!r1 :ile ! back may be p]fectly pla9 & :ite4 ,x is a me?od employ$ 9 comb9ation ) ! jacqu>d1 :]e fancy figures may be obta9$ on ! face1 us+ ! cam movem5t = ! back1 b9d] & edge1 ! weave ( :i* is ! same = all ( ^! w>ps1 be+ simply a "o up & "o d[n4 ,9 su* a comb9ation ! labor on ! jacqu>d movem5t is mu* r$uc$1 inasmu* z ! travel ( ! l+o is mu* %ort] ?an is requir$ :5 made 9 connection ) s+le %uttle4 ,,! ,,ov]%ot ,,me?od ,! ov]%ot me?od1 :i* we h previ\sly ref]r$ to1 is ano!r =m ( d\ble %uttle web :i* has 9 x elem5ts ( economy diff]+ f ! cross %ot b equally important4 ,?is k9d ( weav+ is design$ z a sub/itute = silk jacqu>d webs1 :i* x has to a great ext5t supplem5t$4 ,be=e its introduction x 0 cu/om>y to use a sl[ runn+ 8rise & fall0 lay movem5t1 :5 mak+ a silk figure ) ! %uttle1 putt+ 9 "o pick ( silk fill+ to ea* two body picks1 s t ! output ( web 0 only ab\t "o-half ( :at is possible 9 ov]%ot weav+4 ,9 ! old me?od ! silk us$ to pass f edge to edge ( ! goods at ea* pick ( ! figure %uttle1 & :]e ! figure did n appe> x 0 buri$ betwe5 ! upp] & ! l[] clo?s4 ,9 ! ov]%ot me?od ! silk figure is b\nd d[n at ! edge or bord] ( ! figure & none ( ! silk is entirely buri$ out ( sight4 ,9 ! ov]%ot ! body %uttle runs all ! "t1 :ile ! figure or silk %uttle only runs ) e alt]nate pick4 ,! ma9 body ( ! goods is wov5 9 e respect ! same z 9 a s+le %uttle web1 & x may embrace all ! weaves1 su* z pla9s1 twills or fancies1 :i* are common to s+le %uttle weav+4 ,arrangem5ts are made1 h[ev]1 = ! production ( an auxili>y %$1 by a movem5t :i* pulls c]ta9 ?reads above ! ma9 %$1 & :ile ^! are op5 to pass ! extra %uttle "u !m1 & ?us b9d 9 ! figure fill+4 ,! l[] "p ( ! lay has /raight %uttles1 :ile ! upp] bank ( %uttles is tipp$ d[n to con=m to ! =mation ( ! auxili>y %$ !y are design$ to pass ?r\gh4 ,! b9d] ?reads f :i* ! ov]%ot figure is g5]ally op]at$1 are weight$ v lightly s t ! individual ?reads w easily /& ! /ra9 !y w be subject to :ile mak+ ! auxili>y %$4 ,! ,crompton ,kn[les ov]%ot dobby is g5]ally us$ = ?is purpose4 ,?is special ma*9e is provid$ ) two horizontal draw knives1 op]at+ any or all ( ! #cj hooks1 & is s arrang$ t ! connect$ w>p ?reads may be lift$ at ei!r or bo? picks to ! height ( ! ma9 %$1 or to ! additional height ( ! auxili>y %$4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #e4--,simple ,ov]%ot ,design ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #e;,a4--,draft = ,fig4 #e ,9 ,fig4 #e;,a is se5 ! draft ( a simple ov]%ot figure cov]+ #bc hooks1 :i* are op]at$ f "o knife draw+ 9 unison ) ! b9d] h>ness1 :ile ! o!r knife is op]at+ on ! alt]nate %$1 or ! heavy pick1 & work+ 9 unison ) ! rubb] h>ness4 ,x w be notic$ t 9 ! ov]%ot design bo? sides ( ! figure d n op]ate alike1 b foll[ "o pick beh9d ! o!r4 ,?is is s arrang$ t ! b9d] may come up at ! "r pick to prop]ly b9d d[n ! silk 9 ! goods1 & s avoid any irregul>ity or ragg$ appe>ance at ! bord] ( ! figure4 ,,mak+ ,,ov]%ot ,,designs ,9 mak+ ov]%ot designs1 c>e mu/ be tak5 n to h ! silk float too long1 or x w give ! goods a r\gh co>se appe>ance4 ,%\ld ! design call = a long span ov] a numb] ( cords1 x w be necess>y to b9d at int]vals z %[n 9 ,fig4 #e;,a1 & at ea* succe$+ pick to break ! ord] ( ! b9d+ z may seem advisable4 ,! /it* or w>p figure com+ up at ea* side ( ! ma9 figure1 mu/ be pegg$ on ! dobby *a9 to op]ate on ! rev]se knife to ! ov]%ot figure1 s z to "w on ! pick :5 ! b9d] h>ness is d[n4 ,illu/ration3 ,figs4 #f & #g4--,o!r ,=ms ( ,ov]%ot ,design ,fig4 #f is an example ( ano!r =m ( ov]%ot design1 kn[n z ! 8matelasse40 ,9 ?is ! silk fill+ ext5ds f side to side ( ! web1 z 9 ! old =m ( jacqu>d1 be+ b\nd d[n at diff]5t po9ts1 ! b9d+s =m+ ! figure4 ,fig4 #g %[s /ill ano!r =m ( ov]%ot made by ! op]ation ( ! gut z figure in/ead ( ! b9d]1 & :i* is work$ on ! heavy pick in/ead ( on ! b9d] pick4 ,?is is done s t ! int]sect+ cords ( face1 :i* hide ! silk at diff]5t po9ts1 c be rais$ 9 ord] t ! figure silk be hidd5 und]nea? x4 ,to accompli% ?is1 ea* ( ^! face ?reads is pass$ ?r\gh slip lea%es1 :i* are op]at$ f ! dobby4 ,^! slip lea%es all[ = ! work+ ( ! face ?read 9 ! ma9 h>ness4 ,at ! same "t x is possible to raise !m to ! height ( ! upp] %$ s t ! silk %uttle may pass "u !m4 ,,*apt] ,,vii4 ,mak+ ,frills 9 ! ,middle ( ,goods--,wov5 ,%irr$ ,effects--,novel ,decoration at ,edge ( ,fancy ,frills--,lappet ,weav+ on ,ela/ic ,fabrics ,af=ds ,opportunity = ,elaboration at ,small ,co/--,production ( ,pe>l ,edge--,special ,fancy ,drafts ,wov5 ela/ic fabrics are op5 to _m =ms ( elaboration t are n possible 9 non-ela/ic weav+4 ,we h already made m5tion ( ! frills wov5 at ! out] edges ( ! goods1 =m$ by ! flut+ ( non-ela/ic sections produc$ by ! contraction ( ! c5t] "p4 ,?is same effect may also be us$ 9 ! c5t] ( ! goods4 ,to accompli% ?is x becomes necess>y to employ a di/9ct set ( h>nesses to op]ate ea* half ( ! web1 toge!r ) additional h>nesses on :i* ! frill sections are drawn 94 ,! *a9 draft is arrang$ s t ! %uttle is made to pass ?r\gh "o-half ( ! web & a half section ( ! frill1 & !n return4 ,! %uttle !n passes ?r\gh ! o!r half section ( body & frill4 ,! op]ation is repeat$ cont9u\sly4 ,fig4 #a %[s a sample ( web 9 :i* ! frill is br\ght up = a di/ance & !n buri$ inside ! goods = a %ort section4 ,fig4 #a;,a gives ! h>ness & *a9 draft4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #a4--,web ,) ,c5t] ,frill ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #b4--;,fancy ,figure ,) ,se]suck] ,c5t] ,! weave us$ = produc+ a frill may also be us$ 9 ! c5t] ( ! ma9 body2 x !n produces a se]suck] effect4 ,at ,fig4 #b !re w be se5 an example ( ?is1 9 comb9ation ) a figure on ei!r side ( ! se]suck]1 ! figure "p be+ bord]$ ) a regul> frill4 ,! ins]tion ( ?is se]suck] section less5s ! numb] ( rubb] /r&s us$ 9 ! :ole1 & x !re=e w be f\nd advisable to use a some:at heavi] size ( rubb] 9 ! rema9+ cords to comp5sate = ?is4 ,! h>ness & *a9 draft = ,fig4 #b are giv5 at ,fig4 #b;,a4 ,,wov5 ,,%irr$ ,,effect ,ano!r example ( an effective =m ( fancy ela/ic weav+ may be se5 at ,fig4 #c1 :]e ! c5t] or rubb] "p ( ! web is made to imitate a %irr$ effect4 ,9 ! regul> me?od ( %irr+ a piece ( pla9 ela/ic web is us$1 "u t5sion1 & is pass$ ?r\gh a sew+ ma*9e :]e a wid] piece ( ribbon or "s o!r light non-ela/ic mat]ial is /it*$ to x by a s]ies ( ne$les runn+ side by side4 ,:5 ! web contracts1 ^u be+ releas$ f t5sion1 ! non-ela/ic "p =ms 9 a regul> flut+ on ! face ( ! web4 ,at ! same "t ! rema9d] ( ! wid] non-ela/ic section frills up on ei!r side ( ! ela/ic "p4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #a;,a4--,h>ness & ,*a9 ,draft = ,fig4 #a ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #b;,a4--,h>ness & ,*a9 ,draft = ,fig4 #b ,! me?od ( produc+ ?is effect direct ^u ! loom is done by an int]*ange ( weaves1 fir/ mak+ a %ort section ( s+le clo? & !n *ang+ to a %ort section ( d\ble clo? weave4 ,!re be+ no b9d] w>p employ$ to knit ! upp] & l[] clo?s toge!r1 ! /r&s ( rubb] w lie betwe5 ! two clo?s s =m$4 ,^u ! contraction ( ^! /r&s ( rubb] ! out] clo?s are ?r[n out1 & appe> z flut+s on ! web1 :ile ! side sections 9 :i* !re is no rubb] w complete ! frill effect4 ,?is wov5 me?od has 9 x ! advantage ( mak+ bo? sides ( ! web alike1 :]eas 9 ! /it*$ %irr+ ! back ( ! goods is n s pres5table & unfits x = _m uses4 ,x also elim9ates ! add$ exp5se ( labor 9 assembl+ ! diff]5t p>ts4 ,,novel ,,decoration ,,at ,,edges ,a novel =m ( decoration is se5 at ! extreme edge ( ! fancy frill at ,fig4 #d4 ,?is may be produc$ by :at is kn[n z ! draw-9 me?od4 ,?is effect 0 =m]ly produc$ by ! use ( additional banks ( %uttles 9 a rise & fall lay1 b is n[ made by us+ two ?reads ( cabl$ silk com+ f spools1 ^! ?reads be+ work$ by ! h>ness ! same z a w>p4 ,!y are v lightly deliv]$ by a delicately adju/$ return spr+ arrangem5t4 ,! ?reads are op]at$ on a special h>ness1 be+ pass$ ?r\gh ! h>ness eyes outside ( all ! o!r w>p /ock1 & !n ?r\gh a d5t 9 ! front re$ z f> away f ! o!r /ock z is desirable to =m ! size ( ! loop requir$4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #c4--,wov5 ,%irr$ ,effect ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #d4--,novel ,edge ,decoration ,! h>ness us$ = ^! ?reads /&s /ill a giv5 numb] ( picks1 & at regul> int]vals is br\ght d[n s t ! draw-9 ?read comes 9 contact ) ! %uttle fill+1 :i* !n passes ar\nd x4 ,z ! %uttle returns ?r\gh ! op5 %$1 ! fill+ or weft pulls ! easily runn+ draw-9 ?read ) x1 until x comes 9 contact ) o!r w>p ?reads1 :i* ! fill+ passes ar\nd1 & s /ops ! fur!r progress ( ! draw-9 ?read into ! %$4 ,! ?read at ! same "t is c>ri$ ar\nd a wire :i* works 9 a d5t next inside ! "o 9 :i* ! draw-9 ?read passes4 ,q a v>iety ( fancy effects may be produc$ 9 ?is mann]4 ,?reads ( diff]5t mat]ials & colors may be us$ & drawn across ! face ( ! web at diff]5t po9ts1 & selvages ( a di/9ctly diff]5t color & "* to ! body ( ! goods may be made4 ,,lappet ,,weav+ ,lappet weav+ on ela/ic fabrics is a me?od :i* has n be5 ext5sively us$1 probably on acc\nt ( ! limitations ( design obta9able by ?is /yle ( weav+4 ,nev]!less1 x af=ds opportunity = consid]able elaboration at a v small co/4 ,! loom atta*m5t :i* p]mits ! mak+ ( ^! patt]ns1 :i* are some:at simil> to embroid]y1 is kn[n z ! lappet motion4 ,:]ev] x has be5 us$ x has be5 f\nd to be s]viceable4 ,x c be atta*$ ei!r to a pla9 loom or a fancy loom4 ,x is a sy/em ( lev]s op]at$ by a *a9 compos$ ( diff]5t siz$ balls1 arrang$ accord+ to ! patt]n desir$4 ,on ! loom lay are "o or two slides runn+ ! full l5g? ( ! lay1 :i* are mov$ lat]ally by ! diff]5t siz$ *a9 balls4 ,!y c also be rais$ & l[]$ z requir$ by ! design4 ,bo? ^! slides h g5]ally ?ree ne$les = ea* susp5d] web1 :i* are spac$ at equal di/ances ap>t1 "o or all ( :i* may be ?read$ & us$4 ,:5 slides are l[]$ into ! web1 ! %uttle fill+ or weft passes ov] ! y>n :i* is c>ri$ 9 ! ne$le eyes & b9ds x into ! clo?4 ,!n by mov+ ! slides backw>d & =w>d = succe$+ picks1 & ea* "t b9d+ ! ?read into ! clo?1 ! v>i\s lappet patt]ns are produc$4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #e4--,lappet ,weav+ ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #f4--;,brok5 ,effect on ,silk ,frill ,! figures are mo/ly irregul> trail+ patt]ns1 z %[n at ,fig4 #e1 & well adapt$ to n>r[ goods4 ,dots ( diff]5t sizes & 9 diff]5t positions may also be made1 b x is n practical to get ! f9ely f9i%$ l9es :i* c be obta9$ f o!r me?ods :]e !re is positive control ( any p>ticul> w>p ?reads or gr\p ( ?reads1 z = in/ance 9 jacqu>ds & ov]%ots4 ,! slid+ b> ( ! lappet motion may v>y slightly 9 its movem5ts s t ! ne$les w n always pi]ce ?r\gh at exactly ! same po9ts at ea* repeat ( ! patt]n1 al?\gh ! g5]al design w be ma9ta9$4 ,! ?reads :i* fe$ ! ne$les %\ld be ( good cle> ply mat]ial1 free f slubs & irregul>ities1 s t !y w pass freely ?r\gh ! ne$le eyes1 & !y %\ld h en\gh turns to enable !m to )/& ! friction result+ f ! backw>d & =w>d slid+ movem5ts ( ! lay passages4 ,! y>n mu/ be deliv]$ f indep5d5t spools1 :i* "w ) p]fect fre$om1 & measures %\ld be tak5 to control ! /ock by ! use ( delicate spr+s4 ,! mat]ial us$ = ! lappet figure is p]haps be/ run f groov$ spools :i* are s weight$ t !y fe$ easily ?r\gh ! ne$les at e =w>d movem5t ( ! lay4 ,,pe>l ,,edge ,an effective & inexp5sive me?od ( elaborat+ a silk frill is f\nd 9 :at is kn[n z ! pe>l edge4 ,?is adds mu* to ! ri*ness ( ! goods1 besides giv+ ! appe>ance ( great] wid? at slight increase ( co/4 ,! pe>l edge is produc$ by a s]ies ( f9e /eel edge wires1 :i* are c>ri$ 9 sep>ate d5ts ( ! front re$ outside ( ! frill itself4 ,ea* wire is op]at$ by a special h>ness :i* br+s x into ! weav+ l9es z desir$1 s t ! fill+ may pass ar\nd x & make pe>l loops at ^! p>ticul> places4 ,x w be f\nd necess>y to use h>d /eel d5ts 9 ! front re$ to "w ! wires 91 o!rwise ! d5ts w soon be cut f ! con/ant we> ( ! wires4 ,a silk frill may also be mu* enri*$ by special fancy drafts4 ,^! all[ = ! op]ation ( gr\ps ( ?reads s t ! fill+ passes ov] & "u !m & %[ up ! lu/] ( ! silk fill+ 9 blocks contra/+ ) ! m pla9ly wov5 p>ts4 ,an example ( ?is is %[n at ,fig4 #f4 ,,*apt] ,,viii4 ,designs ,produc$ by ,use ( ,jacqu>d 9 ,connection ) ,cams or ,head ,motion--,weav+ ,buttonholes 9 ,webs--,manufacture ( ,surgical ,belts & ,b&ages--,comb9ation ,wov5 & ,pr9t$ ,designs--,me?od ( ,pr9t+ ,9 previ\s articles we h conf9$ our rem>ks to ! production ( ela/ic fabrics on pla9 & fancy looms4 ,^! ma*9es are m or less limit$ 9 capacity1 & ! /ock mu/ be op]at$ 9 gr\ps ( ?reads4 ,consid]able c>e is necess>y 9 ! selection ( patt]ns be/ adapt$ to ^! looms4 ,9 jacqu>d weav+ ea* sep>ate ?read is controllable1 & ! scope ( patt]n & design is limit$ only by ! space available on ! face ( ! fabric4 ,( c\rse c]ta9 g5]al rules1 :i* h be5 laid d[n = ! production ( designs on fancy looms1 are applicable to ! mak+ ( jacqu>d designs4 ,= example1 :]e sunk5 effects are aim$ at x is necess>y to uni=mly di/ribute ! buri$ /ock1 j z x is 9 ! fancy loom me?od2 o!rwise unev5 or 8cockl$0 web w result on acc\nt ( !re be+ too mu* buri$ /ock at "s p>ticul> po9t1 :i* prev5ts uni=m contraction4 ,,designs ,,9 ,,sunk5 ,,effects ,fig4 #a is an illu/ration ( a patt]n :]e ! sunk5 effect is well di/ribut$4 ,?is patt]n also %[s ! op]ation ( two sets ( figure ?reads br\ght up alt]nately4 ,bo? w>ps are buri$ to all[ ! back fill+ to appe> 9 relief4 ,?is indicates ! wide scope ( design possible on a s+le %uttle1 :i* is almo/ unlimit$4 ,fig4 #b illu/rates a d\ble %uttle design :i* has a sunk5 w>p effect 9 connection ) a silk figure4 ,x also s]ves to illu/rate ! effect ( ske9 dy$ silk = decorative purposes4 ,fig4 #c %[s /ill ano!r type ( d\ble %uttle design1 9 :i* a p>ti-color$ face w>p l5ds an entirely diff]5t effect to a design4 ,fig4 #d is an example ( ?ree %uttle "w :]e "o %uttle is us$ = ! gr\nd1 & two %uttles = ! silk figure4 ,x w\ld be easy mat]ially to enl>ge on ! v>i\s types ( design possible 9 jacqu>d weav+ ( ela/ic webs b ?is is n necess>y4 ,if a /raight tie-up is us$ ! scope ( design is almo/ unlimit$4 ,! cu/om g5]ally adopt$ is to op]ate ! back1 rubb] & gut f *a9 or cam h>ness1 z ! same movem5t ( all ^! ?reads is ma9ta9$ cont9u\sly1 & to op]ate ! face & b9d] f ! jacqu>d4 ,fig4 #e is an illu/ration ( a fully rigg$ jacqu>d susp5d] loom1 hav+ two ma*9es m\nt$ on x1 & ) ! back & rubb] h>ness op]at$ by ! fancy head4 ,,jacqu>d ,,tie-,,up ,too mu* emphasis _c be laid on ! necessity = ex]cis+ ! greate/ c>e 9 ! jacqu>d tie-up & ! level+ ( ! /r+s4 ,z already /at$ 9 a previ\s article1 any failure 9 ! initial arrangem5ts w result 9 con/ant tr\ble & faulty "w4 ,mispicks & floats may n be s]i\s 9 _m types ( non-ela/ic fabrics1 b 9 ela/ic webs a float w s pe>l up on con/ruction t ! goods w be ru9$4 ,once aga91 & ( ! greate/ importance1 measures %\ld surely be tak5 to h "s =m ( screw adju/m5t = ! rais+ & l[]+ ( ! jacqu>d ma*9es to comp5sate = expansion & contraction ( ! /r+s1 caus$ by *ang+ atmosph]ic conditions4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #a ,fig4 #b ,fig4 #c ,fig4 #d ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #f4--;,=mation ( ,abdom9al ,belt ,,weav+ ,,buttonholes ,9 ! assembl+ & mak+ up ( n>r[ ela/ic fabrics1 p>ticul>ly susp5d]s1 x is (t5 necess>y to use buttonholes 9 ! f9i%$ products4 ,sometimes ! buttonholes are cut & work$ on ! ord9>y buttonhole sew+ ma*9es1 b on acc\nt ( ! difficulty aris+ 9 ! controll+ ( ! /r&s ( rubb] :5 x is cut = work+1 a v unsightly buttonhole (t5 results4 ,x has !re=e be5 f\nd advisable to weave ! buttonholes1 p>ticul>ly = :at is kn[n z ! 8,guyot0 susp5d]1 :]e ela/ic pieces hav+ buttonholes are us$ = ! back ends1 & non-ela/ic /raps1 also hav+ buttonholes1 are us$ = ! front /raps4 ,! loom w automatically weave ! buttonholes at any desir$ place1 & at ! same rate ( spe$ at :i* ! pla9 "p is wov54 ,?is is accompli%$ by ! use ( two banks ( %uttles1 bo? ( :i* are runn+ 9 ! same direction at e pick ( ! loom1 b only "o ( :i*1 7! upp]7 is engag$ ) ! clo? :ile ! pla9 "p ( ! goods is be+ wov51 ! o!r bank runn+ 8dead0 und]nea? ! goods dur+ ! op]ation4 ,:5 ! buttonhole is ab\t to be made1 two di/9ct %$s are =m$ & !n ! two banks ( %uttles are engag$1 ! upp] bank on "o half ( ! /rap & ! l[] bank on ! o!r half1 until ! completion ( ! buttonhole4 ,!n "o %$ is aga9 =m$ 9 place ( ! two1 & ! upp] bank resumes ! op]ation ( weav+ ! pla9 "p ( ! /rap4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #e--;,jacqu>d ,susp5d] ,loom ,) ,two ,ma*9es & ,fancy ,head ,?is process ( *ang+ f ! s+le to ! d\ble %$ is accompli%$ by ! use ( a specially design$ cam jack made 9 two sections1 to :i* are atta*$ two h>ness frames1 9 ea* ( :i* "o side ( ! /rap is drawn4 ,:ile weav+ ! pla9 "p ( ! /rap bo? sections ( ! cam jack op]ate 9 unison1 runn+ side by side f ! same cam1 b :5 ! buttonhole is 8call$ on0 a device = spread+ ap>t ea* pair ( cam jacks is op]at$1 & ! two %$s are !n =m$4 ,at ! same "t a lev] movem5t *anges ! position ( ! lay1 s t ! two banks ( %uttles take new positions & prop]ly engage ! two %$s4 ,facilities are provid$ = gov]n+ ! l5g? ( ! /raps & ! position & l5g? ( ! buttonholes4 ,:5 ! l[] %uttle is n engag$ 9 ! buttonhole %$1 ! fill+ may run loosely b5ea? ! goods1 & require trimm+ (f betwe5 ! buttonholes4 ,?is trimm+ may be avoid$ by op]at+ ! c5t] b9d] ?read1 putt+ ! same 9 a skeleton h>ness & giv+ x an ext5d$ %$d+ s t ?is p>ticul> ?read may be dropp$ bel[ ! ma9 %$ & all[ ! l[] %uttle to engage x4 ,by ?is process ! ?read is b\nd 9 ! goods at e pick ( ! loom & does n ne$ trimm+4 ,! ela/ic back end1 hav+ a buttonhole 9 x1 is also made on a special loom1 :i* has a 8rise & fall0 movem5t ( ! lay4 ,x has a *a9 fancy head ) :at is kn[n z a ,gem multipli] on x = regulat+ ! l5g? ( ! pla9 "p1 s t "o repeat ( ! pla9 weave c be multipli$ indef9itely & ! buttonhole *a9 call$ on z desir$4 ,9 mak+ up sections ( ela/ic webs = v>i\s purposes1 p>ticul>ly :5 requir$ to be atta*$ to g>m5ts1 x is (t5 f\nd t ! jo9+s are bulky & unsightly on acc\nt ( _! ?ickness4 ,a web is made on ! special loom j describ$ ( su* "* t x does away ) ?is objection4 ,a section ( pla9 web may be wov5 ( any desir$ l5g?1 & !n ano!r section made 9 :i* ! upp] & l[] clo? are wov5 sep>ately = a giv5 di/ance4 ,aft] be+ tak5 f ! loom ?is d\ble section is cut 9 ! middle1 s t ! non-ela/ic "p may be us$ = atta*+ to ! g>m5t4 ,:5 ?us made ! rubb] & b9d] lie 8dead0 betwe5 ! two clo?s1 & are trimm$ (f aft] ! non-ela/ic "p is cut 9 two4 ,,mak+ ,,abdom9al ,,belts ,!re is a gr[+ dem& = webs ( v>i\s *>act]s = surgical & or?op$ic purposes4 ,"o ( ^! :i* calls = special att5tion is a web us$ 9 ! manufacture ( abdom9al belts4 ,! wid? v>ies f ab\t f\r in*es1 :]e x is us$ to support ! back1 to ab\t six in*es at ! "p :i* is us$ = ! support ( ! abdom54 ,su* a web is con/ruct$ 9 ! regul> mann] employ$ on pla9 webs1 except t x is wov5 9 a deep front re$ made to tap] f top to bottom1 f f9e to co>se4 ,?is re$ is arrang$ 9 a re$ pocket atta*$ to ! lay b$1 & is design$ to slide up & d[n beh9d x4 ,und]nea? ! lay is an adju/able screw me*anism1 :i* is s op]at$ t x c be made to rema9 /ation>y = a giv5 l5g? ( "t1 & !n gradually "w up & d[n 9 a giv5 p]iod4 ,?is all[s a web to be produc$ ) a =mation simil> to t %[n at ,fig4 #f4 ,! rubb] cords lie close toge!r :ile weav+ ! fir/ n>r[ "p1 & gradually spread :ile op]at+ at ! wide "p1 return+ to _! orig9al position = ! o!r n>r[ end4 ,if prop]ly con/ruct$ ! goods w lie p]fectly flat at ! n>r[ ends1 & ! op5+ up ( ! cords by ! spread+ ( ! re$ d5ts at ! wide c5t] w give m fre$om to ! individual /r&s ( rubb] 9 ?is section1 :i* w cause ! goods to 8belly0 at ?is po9t4 ,?is r\nd+ =mation especially adapts !m = ! purposes = :i* !y are int5d$4 ,v>i\s modifications ( ! tap] web may be made 9 ?is mann]1 b ! same g5]al plan is applicable to all4 ,,pr9t+ ,,designs ,,on ,,ela/ic ,,web ,! pr9t+ ( designs on ela/ic web is a =m ( embelli%m5t :i* op5s up l>ge possibilities = v>iety ( effect1 & adds mu* to ! sell+ quality ( _m webs at slight additional co/4 ,moreov] x gives an opportunity = *ang+ ! "* ( _m wov5 patt]ns :i* may n h prov$ good sell]s1 b :5 pr9t$ w (t5 become ! mo/ popul> patt]ns (f]$4 ,a wov5 /rip$ effect ) a few crossb>s pr9t$ on1 trans=m+ x into a plaid1 *anges its "* entirely4 ,or a few dots di/ribut$ ov] a patt]n hi!rto undesirable may make big *anges 9 its sell+ qualities4 ,b ap>t f ?is ! field ( orig9al design is practically unlimit$4 ,! "w is mo/ satisfactorily accompli%$ by us+ oil inks ( v>i\s colors1 mak+ prop] arrangem5ts = ! dry+ s t ! colors are absolutely fa/4 ,colors %\ld n be us$ :i* are m or less fugitive & liable to spread 9 ! process ( f9i%+4 ,! goods1 :5 pr9t$1 are run loosely 9 cans & all[$ to /& a reasonable "t = prop] absorption ( ! ink4 ,!y are !n run sl[ly ?r\gh a heat$ *amb] to set ! colors1 a numb] ( /rips be+ put ?r\gh ! dry+ *amb] at "o "t4 ,! patt]n rolls are be/ made ) ! design rais$ on ! face ( ! patt]n1 & ! ink uni=mly di/ribut$ on ! rais$ "p4 ,c>e %\ld be us$ to h ! set ( ! rolls s adju/$ t ! "p :]e ! figure does n appe> w n come 9 contact ) ! ink roll4 ,?is me?od has prov$ bett] ?an us+ engrav$ rolls1 besides be+ less exp5sive4 ,aft] ! design is drawn x is photo-engrav$ on a plate ( a giv5 l5g? s t x may be %ap$ & fitt$ ar\nd ! pr9t+ roll1 great c>e be+ tak5 to h ! repeat prop]ly connect$1 p>ticul>ly :]e ! patt]n is a cont9u\s "o )\t any break 9 ! design4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #g4--;,diagram ( ,ma*9e = ,pr9t+ ,ela/ic ,fabrics ,fig4 #g is a sket* ( a pr9t+ ma*9e4 ,! design roll ,a is five in*es 9 diamet] & con/ruct$ ( a numb] ( ?icknesses ( maple wood1 glu$ & screw$ firmly toge!r1 ) ! gra9 well cross$ to prev5t %r9kage & w>p+4 ,! design plate is c>efully fitt$ ar\nd & p9n$ securely to ?is roll4 ,! rubb] cov]$ rolls ,b & ,c c>ry ! ink & are positively driv54 ,! small roll ,d1 :ile revolv+ by frictional contact ) roll ,c1 is also vibrat$ sidewise by a cam-driv5 lev] ,e1 s z to di/ribute ! ink uni=mly4 ,! rolls are run on /eel c5t]s & c be s adju/$ z to c5t] any giv5 patt]n on ! goods4 ,all ! roll c>ri]s are fitt$ 9 a tap] groove :i* is plan$ to ! full l5g? ( ! frame b$1 s t ! pressure ( ! diff]5t rolls c be accurately adju/$4 ,! ma*9es are easily op]at$ & pr9t #ab1jjj to #ae1jjj y>ds ( web a day4 ,,*apt] ,,ix4 ,mak+ ,w>ps = ,ela/ic ,fabrics--,quills = ,use 9 ,%uttles--,effect ( ,f9i%+ ,processes ,mu/ ,be ,calculat$ f ,beg9n+ ( ,web ,con/ruction--,details ( ,processes & ,ma*9es = ,diff]5t ,/yles ( ,goods--,c>e to ,avoid ,acid 9 ,goods--,rubb]'s ,reaction on ,copp] ,! mak+ ( cotton w>ps = ela/ic fabrics1 p>ticul>ly = d\ble clo? webs1 involves consid]able ?\ght & c>e 9 view ( ! numb] ( sections necess>y = a prop]ly con/ruct$ fabric1 & ! diff]5t weaves employ$4 ,ow+ to ! contraction ( ! rubb]1 x is ess5tial at all times t ! prop] balance be ma9ta9$ betwe5 ! face & ! back ( ! goods4 ,?is necessitates a uni=m weight ( /ock :]e ! weaves on ! face & ! back are id5tical1 no matt] h[ ! size ( ! y>ns us$ may v>y1 & a v>iable weight ( /ock :]e ! weaves are diff]5t4 ,all ?is is det]m9$ by exp]im5tal "w :5 e/abli%+ ! grade4 ,^! conditions necessitate sep>ate w>ps = ! face & back4 ,!n aga9 ! diff]5t weaves employ$ involve a v>iable l5g? 9 ! take-up & ?is alone w\ld make x impracticable to comb9e ! v>i\s weaves4 ,x is inv>iably ! plan to use f9e /ock = ! face & a co>s] mat]ial = ! back4 ,( c\rse x w\ld n be practical to put ^! toge!r on ! same beam4 ,! cr[d$ condition ( mat]ial us$ necessitates ! fur!r splitt+ ( ! face & back sections4 ,! b9d]1 :i* takes up s mu* fa/] ?an any ( ! o!r y>ns1 also requires a special w>p4 ,,selvage ,,"u ,,special ,,control ,! g5]al appe>ance ( ! f9i%$ product be+ s dep5d5t ^u ! "* ( ! selvage1 x is advisable to h ^! ?reads "u special control1 s t !y may be treat$ 9 ! be/ possible mann] to produce a satisfactory %$1 & all[ ! fill+ to get a good cle>ance4 ,s z to secure a smoo? well-r\nd$ edge x is !re=e necess>y to h ?is on a special beam4 ,x w be se51 !re=e1 t 9 an ord9>y piece ( d\ble clo? ela/ic web !re w be requir$ at lea/ five w>ps3 back1 face1 b9d]1 edge & gut4 ,figures & fancy effects w (t5 necessitate auxili>y w>ps4 ,) v f9e webs1 hav+ six ?reads to a cord1 x is (t5 f\nd necess>y fur!r to split up ! face to obta9 prop] work+ conditions4 ,figs4 #a & #a;,a %[ a six-cord web1 toge!r ) w>p calculations = ! goods4 ,! employm5t ( s _m w>ps to ea* /rip ( web1 :i* are automatically deliv]$ by ! friction let-(f lev]s describ$ 9 a previ\s article1 prohibits ! use ( w>ps :]e ! ?reads are equally di/ribut$ across ! beam1 z is ! practice 9 wide fabrics1 ! me?od usually be+ to tape !m on ! beams4 ,,w>p+ ,,ma*9e ,! requir$ spools = ! numb] ( ?reads 9 ! w>p are put 9 a creel1 ea* ?read pass+ "u an electrically connect$ wire1 :i* is held out ( contact by ! runn+ ?read :ile ! w>p is mak+4 ,if ! ?read %\ld break1 ! wire w\ld drop & make an electrical connection :i* w\ld automatically /op ! ma*9e4 ,fig4 #b %[s a view ( a w>p+ ma*9e su* z is us$ = ?is "w4 ,!y are g5]ally con/ruct$ s z to all[ = two or f\r beams1 all ( :i* may be run toge!r or />t$1 /opp$ or run individually1 z requir$4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #a4--,six-,cord ,web ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #a;,a4--,h>ness & ,*a9 ,draft = ,fig4 #a ,ea* beam is friction driv5 s t a uni=m spe$ is obta9$ 9 ! deliv]y ( ! y>n f ! spools4 ,beams are also s arrang$ t !y w /op automatically on rea*+ a giv5 size4 ,ea* w>p ?read is pass$ ?r\gh a pair ( re$s1 fitt$ ) dead /ops 9 ! c5t] ( alt]nat+ d5t spaces1 s t leases may be put 9 ! w>ps at fix$ int]vals to assi/ 9 keep+ !m /raight 9 ! looms4 ,9 tap+ ! w>ps on ! beams1 x is cu/om>y 9 "s mills to run ! ?reads ov] a small /eel flang$ pulley ab\t "o & "o-half in*es wide1 :i* w keep ea* ?read 9 its prop] position & make ! tape absolutely /raight & flat z x leads to ! beam4 ,a p]fect fabric is l>gely dep5d5t ^u h[ well ! w>ps h be5 made1 b x mu/ n be =gott5 t a good w>p may be spoil$ by a poor beam4 ,beam flanges %\ld n lie flat aga9/ ! w>p creel /&>ds1 b %\ld be kept cle> by ! =mation ( ! head ne> ! b>rel1 :i* %\ld h en\gh prom95ce at ?is po9t to keep ! flanges cle>1 & ?us r$uce ! friction to a m9imum4 ,! edges ( ! flanges %\ld be p]fectly smoo? s z to all[ = uni=m deliv]y by ! contact lev]4 ,mu* ( ! beam abuse :i* occurs 9 _m mills might be avoid$ by provision be+ made = beam racks at conv5i5t po9ts4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #b4--,w>p+ ,ma*9e ,,quills ,,= ,,%uttles ,! mak+ ( prop] quills = use 9 ! %uttle is ( no small importance1 = on ?is ! ev5ness & uni=mity ( ! selvage v mu* dep5ds4 ,:5 flang$ wood quills are us$1 ! guides %\ld be c>efully adju/$ s t ! fill+ is uni=mly spread ov] ! entire l5g? ( ! quill1 all[+ = p]fect fre$om at ea* end )\t dragg+4 ,quills %\ld n be ov]load$4 ,9 drum pressure quill+1 ! automatic /op %\ld be s arrang$ t ! quill w be fill$ ev5 ) ! out] edge ( ! flanges & no m4 ,%\ld !re be any t5d5cy to h>dness 9 ! mat]ial us$ = fill+1 x may be f\nd advisable to run ! ?read ov] a plu% pad on :i* has be5 appli$ a light application ( cocoanut oil1 b great c>e %\ld be ex]cis$ n to ov]do ?is z !re is no?+ s hurtful to rubb] goods z oil4 ,! quills %\ld only be ( suffici5t l5g? to all[ = uni=m deliv]y f ! %uttle )\t dragg+ at ! ends4 ,to assi/ 9 ?is elongat$ %uttle eyes are pref]able to r\nd ones1 s z to %ort5 ! angle at :i* ! fill+ leaves ! quill :5 runn+ f ! extreme end4 ,?umb bits %\ld be s adju/$ t ! deliv]y is uni=m f />t to f9i%4 ,! quill flanges %\ld n lie flat aga9/ ! sides ( ! quill op5+1 b %\ld be po9t$ at ! ends s z to r$uce ! friction4 ,quill wires %\ld be ( h>d temp]$ /eel & be p]fectly /raight at all times4 ,:5 x becomes necess>y to run n>r[ goods 9 wide spaces1 recoil spr+s %\ld be provid$ to ga!r up ! loose fill+4 ,,c>e ,,requir$ ,,9 ,,f9i%+ ,! f9i%+ ( ela/ic fabrics is a process :i* dem&s great c>e1 & has to be tak5 into calculation f ! beg9n+ ( ! web con/ruction4 ,calculations mu/ always be made z to :at effect heat1 moi/ure & siz+ w h ^u ! cov]$ up ela/ic ?reads1 conf9$ z !y are 9 a multiple ( small cavities & "u high t5sion4 ,z soon z ! s(t5+ influ5ce ( heat & /eam op]ate ^u ! cov]+ ( cotton y>n :i* conf9es ^! ?reads1 ! rubb] /r&s beg9 to ass]t !mselves & contraction at once takes place4 ,to :at ext5t ?is c g mu/ be pr$et]m9$ 9 fix+ values1 & a c]ta9 degree ( uni=mity ( contraction arrang$ =4 ,webs :i* are p]fectly flat & /raight :5 tak5 f ! looms are liable to be trans=m$ into un%apely products & completely ru9$ by unsuitable f9i%+4 ,= in/ance1 take a web ) a twill c5t] & a pla9 bord] :i* is app>5tly flat & satisfactory at ! loom4 ,! effect ( heat & /eam ^u su* a web w be to contract ! s(t wov5 c5t] m ?an ! h>d] wov5 pla9 bord]1 :i* w cause ! web to be long-sid$ & curl4 ,su* a condition mu/ be anticipat$ 9 ! con/ruction ( ! web & provision made to (fset its occurr5ce4 ,sometimes x mu/ be met by a *ange 9 ! size ( "s ( ! y>ns us$1 or numb] ( ?reads employ$ at giv5 po9ts1 or p]haps add$ gut ?reads mu/ be introduc$ to /op contraction 9 c]ta9 places4 ,x mu/ always be rememb]$ t we are deal+ ) a v mu* alive elem5t :5 we are f9i%+ rubb] goods1 & t unexpect$ results may at any "t arise4 ,,f9i%+ ,,ma*9es ,f9i%+ ma*9es v>y bo? 9 design & capacity1 b ! g5]al pr9ciple is ! same 9 all4 ,a s]ies ( dry+ cans are arrang$ = ! application ( ! siz+ mixture4 ,"s ma*9es are laid out horizontally & "s are upright4 ,9 ! longitud9al lay\t ! ma*9es are m easily accessible 9 _! diff]5t p>ts & "u bett] control1 :ile ! upright ma*9es are m compact & occupy less floor space4 ,fig4 #c %[s a horizontal ma*9e ( ! late/ type4 ,x has a dry+ capacity ( elev5 cyl9d]s1 #bd in*es wide1 #cf in*es 9 diamet]1 all[+ = a web contact ( ab\t #ajj feet4 ,^! cyl9d]s are arrang$ 9 two decks s z to economize 9 floor space4 ,! goods fir/ pass ?r\gh a pair ( indep5d5tly driv5 circul> bru%es1 fix$ at ! fe$ end ( ! ma*9e1 to cle> !m f l9t & dirt be=e be+ /eam$ & dri$4 ,!y next pass betwe5 two pairs ( nip rolls betwe5 :i* are fix$ ! /eam+ & siz+ atta*m5ts4 ,! goods pass ?r\gh dry high pressure /eam :i* is conf9$ 9 a /eam *e/4 ,!y pass into & out ( ?is *e/ ?r\gh slots und]nea? ! cov]4 ,a tr\gh c>ries ! cond5s$ /eam away f ! goods & prev5ts dripp+1 o!rwise !y w\ld be spott$4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #c4--,n>r[ ,fabric ,f9i%+ ,ma*9e ,! /eam pressure mu/ be c>efully controll$ s z to get uni=m %r9kage ( ! goods4 ,! /eam+ process s(t5s ! cotton1 & ! rubb] ?reads1 :i* are "u consid]able t5sion1 gradually creep up & contract ! goods4 ,! /eam+ also makes ! web m absorb5t & ?us prep>es x = ! size ba?1 ?r\gh :i* x is pass$ "u subm]g$ brass roll]s4 ,! size is kept at a uni=m heat by /eam heat$ copp] coils4 ,! web !n passes ?r\gh ! second pair ( nip rolls1 :i* are work$ "u pressure s z to squeeze out ! size be=e ! web rea*es ! dry+ cans4 ,,all[ance ,,= ,,contraction ,! fir/ ( ! dry cans is usually cov]$ ) clo?1 s z to absorb any size :i* may rema9 on ! surface ( ! goods & all[ x to p5etrate by fur!r s(t5+4 ,z ! goods cont9ue to pass ov] ! hot cans a gradual process ( contraction takes place4 ,?is contraction is provid$ = by a correspond+ regulation ( ! spe$ ( ! cans4 ,int]m$iate expansion pulleys are provid$ = ?is purpose1 s t ! spe$ adju/m5ts c readily be made to meet ! requirem5ts ( diff]5t k9ds ( web4 ,! two pairs ( front rubb] nip rolls are likewise indep5d5tly driv51 s z to provide = ! %r9kage :i* takes place at ! /eam box & size ba?4 ,at ! deliv]y end ( ! ma*9e ! goods pass ?r\gh a set ( nip rolls :i* are belt-driv5 f cone pulleys1 s z to be able to deliv] ! goods at ! spe$ !y leave ! la/ dry+ cans4 ,f ^! la/ nip rolls1 :i* are fix$ q high1 !y drop into receiv+ cans or boxes4 ,t5 to tw5ty-five /rips runn+ side by side are f9i%$ at "o "t4 ,adju/able guides are provid$ at diff]5t places on ! ma*9es to keep ! goods runn+ 9 prop] position4 ,! spe$ ( ! ma*9e is usually gov]n$ by a ,reeves transmission1 & ! deliv]y ( ! goods ranges f #aj to #ae y>ds p] m9ute1 accord+ to ! requirem5ts ( f9i%+4 ,?ree in*es p] y>d is g5]ally all[$ = %r9kage1 b ?is aga9 is det]m9$ by ! goods4 ,neglect at any po9t 9 ?is process may s int]f]e ) ! calculat$ %r9kage t values & co/s are mat]ially *ang$4 ,new patt]ns & grades %\ld be te/$ = %r9kage z soon z ! goods come f ! loom1 z %ort l5g?s made 9 sample looms are n at all times reliable4 ,frequ5t te/s are also advisable to see t orig9al conditions are ma9ta9$1 z *anges made by heat1 /eam & spe$ are always liable to occur4 ,! imm]s+ process is us$ mo/ly = s+le clo? g>t] webs4 ,d\ble clo? webs hav+ a w>p pile on ! face are siz$ on ! back only4 ,exceptions are made on d\ble clo? :ite webs us$ = ! corset trade1 :i* are ba!d ) a v light size & (t5 t9t$ 9 ?is ba?+ process to ! desir$ tone ( :ite to mat* ! clo?s !y are to be associat$ )4 ,:]e ! goods are siz$ on ! back only ! effect ( ?is has to be consid]$ :5 !y are con/ruct$1 & provision made to ma9ta9 a prop] balance "u su* conditions4 ,9 frill$ webs ! ela/ic portion only is siz$1 s z n to int]f]e 9 any way ) ! s(t flut+s ( ! frill4 ,?is is done by guid+ ea* /rip ov] n>r[ pulleys :i* are run ?r\gh ! size ba?4 ,! size accumulat$ on ^! pulleys is absorb$ by ! web pass+ ov] !m4 ,,acid ,,9 ,,goods ,! requirem5ts ( ! trade are s v>i$1 & ! types ( web s num]\s1 t no =mula = size is suitable = g5]al use4 ,c>e mu/ be tak51 h[ev]1 to avoid any sizes conta9+ acids4 ,results f ! use ( su* prep>ations may seem excell5t at ! ma*9e b lat] on1 :5 ! goods are made up & come 9 contact ) metal p>ts1 ! metal is quickly t>ni%$1 & ! result may be heavy claims = damage4 ,x may be well to note "h t ! sulphur us$ 9 ! process ( vulcaniz+ ! rubb] has ! effect ( black5+ ! copp] cans & ! rolls ov] :i* ! goods mu/ pass4 ,?is c be effectively prev5t$ by hav+ ! cans nickel plat$1 ?us do+ away ) mu* risk ( dirty goods1 & ( con/ant sc\r+s & wa%+ ( ! diff]5t p>ts4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #d4--,n>r[ ,fabric ,s+] ,provision %\ld be made = suffici5t dep? 9 ! siz+ pans s t !y w hold a lib]al supply ( size4 ,repl5i%m5t %\ld be made at regul> int]vals & ! heat ma9ta9$ at a uni=m temp]ature to get satisfactory results4 ,x is advisable to make provisions to travel ! web ov] ! top ( ! ma*9e = a di/ance aft] imm]sion 9 ! size ba?1 & be=e x /rikes ! hot cans1 s z to all[ = prop] absorption ( ! size4 ,all ^! details are be/ work$ out by exp]i5ce4 ,webs are g5]ally f$ into ! ma*9e f racks aft] be+ prop]ly w\nd up1 & great c>e mu/ be tak5 to avoid any v>iable t5sion on ! webs :5 ent]+ ! ma*9e4 ,on lisle webs1 a process ( gass+ or s+e+ takes place prior to f9i%+ = ! purpose ( remov+ any fuzz or fibre f ! goods4 ,fig4 #d %[s a gass+ ma*9e us$ = ?is purpose4 ,x is run at a high rate ( spe$ & sev]al /rips are gass$ at once4 ,:5 ! ma*9e is runn+ ! flames are close to ! web1 b ^u ! /opp+ ( ! ma*9e ! flames are c>ri$ away out ( contact4 ,9 gass+ :ite & colors1 great c>e mu/ be ex]cis$ to h ! gas mixture correct & free f any c>boniz+ effect on ! goods4 ,,*apt] ,x4 ,emboss+ ,webs--,type ( ,con/ruction & ,design = ,:i* ,process is ,adapt$--,braid+ ,flat ,ela/ic ,fabrics1 ,pla9 ,cords = ,a?letics & ,airplanes1 & ,fancy ,cords--,h[ ,sizes ,are ,indicat$--,diff]5ce ,betwe5 ,wov5 & ,braid$ ,effects ,! emboss+ ( classic fabrics is a =m ( elaboration :i* is n adapt$ = long /ret* webs4 ,x has be5 conf9$ mo/ly to goods ( %ort /ret*1 suitable = use 9 ! manufacture ( susp5d]s4 ,9 long /ret* webs ! patt]ns w n /& out prom95tly = any l5g? ( "t4 ,aft] repeat$ /ret*+s & we>1 !y lose mu* ( ! desirable %>pness ( detail1 & become flat & indi/9ct4 ,twills & loose weaves ( a simil> "* %\ld be avoid$ = emboss+4 ,! be/ results are obta9$ on firm1 closely wov5 pla9 webs :i* take ! impress ( ! design ) cle>ness & reta9 x = a great] l5g? ( "t4 ,,designs ,,suitable ,,= ,,emboss+ ,9 plann+ su* "w x is well to avoid designs :i* run = any great l5g? ) ! w>p1 & to select effects :]e ! g5]al run ( ! design is at an angle to ! direction ( ! w>p ?reads1 r ?an ) !m4 ,?is w prolong ! life ( ! figure4 ,! process is simil> to t us$ 9 emboss+ pap] & lea!roid goods4 ,! ma*9e mu/ be heavy & made to /& consid]able pressure4 ,x %\ld be run sl[ly s z to all[ ! goods to get suffici5t heat :ile 9 contact ) ! emboss+ roll4 ,! webs %\ld pass ?r\gh a /eam s(t5+ process j ahead ( ! emboss+4 ,?is /eam+ is done by hav+ a p]=at$ /eam pipe conf9$ 9 a cov]$ box1 ! web pass+ ?r\gh slots at ei!r side4 ,x puts ! goods 9 condition to receive & reta9 ! impress ( ! figure4 ,,emboss+ ,,ma*9e ,figs4 #a & #b %[ a ma*9e us$ = emboss+ ela/ic fabrics4 ,x consi/s *iefly ( a heavy frame ,a1 a case h>d5$ /eel roll ,b on :i* ! design has previ\sly be5 engrav$1 & a h>d pap] roll ,c4 ,! engrav$ /eel roll ,b is heat$ ) /eam & may be subject$ to heavy pressure by turn+ ! h& :eels ,d4 ,:5 putt+ 9 a new design & accompany+ pap] roll1 x is necess>y to run ! ma*9e empty = a few h\rs1 gradually apply+ ! pressure at ! h& :eels 9 ord] to me% ! design into ! pap] roll s z to get a /rong impress on ! goods4 ,:5 moire-antique or wat] effects are desir$1 ! emboss+ rolls are engrav$ ) /raight l9es ( ! desir$ di/ance ap>t1 & ! goods are f$ into ! ma*9e aft] pass+ ov] irregul>ly =m$ roll]s1 :i* prev5t !m f go+ ?r\gh ! ma*9e /raight4 ,fig4 #c is an example ( ?is effect1 ) ! gros gra9 9 ! middle wat]-m>k$1 & bord]$ ) a fancy effect n emboss$4 ,,braid+ ,,ela/ic ,,fabrics ,! braid+ ( ela/ic fabrics is a simple process :5 comp>$ ) weav+4 ,x does n l5d itself to any great v>iety ( fancy effects1 b a great v>iety ( ela/ic goods are braid$1 :i* s]ve _m purposes4 ,r\nd cords are made 9 sizes f a s+le /r& ( rubb] ?read1 su* z is us$ = ! protection ( eye glasses1 to ! cov]+ ( multiple rubb] ?reads = mak+ a cord :i* may be "o in* or m 9 diamet]4 ,"s ( ^! cords are us$ by pr(essional a?letes 9 acrobatic "w4 ,l>ge quantities ( heavy cord are n[ us$ = %ock absorb]s 9 ! manufacture ( airplanes1 & !y are mu* us$ = corset laces & doll cords4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #a4--;,emboss+ ,ma*9e ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #b4--;,end ,view ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #c4--;,emboss$ ,wat]-,m>k$ ,effect on ,middle /ripe ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #d4--;,at ,top1 ,cord ,us$ by ,acrobats2 ,at ,bottom1 ,ex]cise ,cord ,9 ,two ,colors ,! braid+ ma*9es are small & compact1 & are g5]ally op]at$ 9 gangs on b5*es4 ,"o op]ator c c>e = _m ma*9es1 z !y /op automatically :5 a ?read breaks4 ,ea* ma*9e may consi/ ( a v>iable numb] ( spool c>ri]s1 accord+ to ! "* ( ! "w !y are engag$ on4 ,c>ri]s are made to travel ar\nd cam-l grooves =m$ 9 ! b$ ( ! ma*9e1 be+ op]at$ by a *a9 ( ge>s :i* propel !m ar\nd a pr$et]m9$ c\rse4 ,ge>s & slots are s arrang$ t ! c>ri]s are made to cross & recross ea* o!r 9 _! passage1 s t ! v>i\s ?reads ( y>n c>ri$ are plait$ ar\nd ! /r&s ( rubb]4 ,! spools us$ on ! c>ri]s are specially design$1 & h a s]ies ( not*es on ! upp] end1 into :i* a /op w drop ^u ! break+ ( any ( ! diff]5t cov]+ ?reads1 automatically /opp+ ! ma*9e4 ,! rubb] is c>ri$ on a beam su* z is us$ 9 weav+4 ,^! beams are groov$ on ei!r side = receiv+ friction cords or belts1 on :i* are hung weights s z to gov]n ! let-(f ( ! beams & keep ! rubb] at a high t5sion4 ,! beams are hung on brackets und]nea? ! ma*9es4 ,if cords are be+ made1 ! rubb] is deliv]$ ?r\gh a c5tral hole 9 ! b$ ( ! ma*9e & f$ up s t ! cov]+ ?reads may be plait$ ar\nd x4 ,z !re is no friction on ! rubb] ?reads deliv]$ 9 ?is mann] 7l ! friction 9 weav+ caus$ by ! repeat$ passage ( ! re$71 ! rubb] c be work$ at ! highe/ possible t5sion )\t fe> ( *af+ or break+1 & economical results 9 ?is respect are obta9able4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #e4--;,at ,bottom4 ,flat ,braid ,contract$2 ,at ,top1 ! ,same ,braid ,be=e ,contraction ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #f4--;,at ,bottom1 ,braid$ ,frill2 ,at ,top1 ! ,same ,frill ,be=e ,contraction ,,flat ,,braids ,:]e flat braids are made ! rubb] ?reads are pass$ sep>ately ?r\gh diff]5t holes 9 ! ma*9e b$ & ! y>n is braid$ 9 & out betwe5 ^! ?reads1 b9d+ !m toge!r side by side s t !y are flat z 9 a wov5 fabric4 ,by ?is me?od ea* ( ! diff]5t cov]+ ?reads passes f "o side ( ! flat web to ! o!r1 giv+ !m a diagonal direction across ! fabric4 ,?is diagonal cross+ & recross+ ( ! cov]+ ?reads all[s = ! introduction ( diff]5t colors1 :i* produce a plaid-l effect4 ,9 mak+ ! flat braid1 :5 ! individual rubb] ?reads pass ?r\gh ! sep>ate holes on ! out] "p ( ! b$ plate ( ! ma*9e1 !y all ga!r to "o common c5t] aft] !y are ?r\gh4 ,?is causes ! rubb] ?reads1 :5 !y are at a v high t5sion1 to draw at a v acute angle at ! edge ( ! hole1 :i* necessitates runn+ !m at a l[] t5sion ?an is desirable = economy4 ,x also introduces a liability to break "u ! /ra94 ,9 "s mills ?is is c>$ = by pass+ ea* ?read ov] a small case h>d5$ /eel roll]1 ?us avoid+ ! friction at ! edge ( ! hole4 ,,sizes ,,( ,,cords ,! sizes ( cords are det]m9$ by ! ,birm+ham wire gauge z foll[s 7,diamet]s 9 decimal p>ts ( an in*73 ,size #a 4#cjj ,size #b 4#bhd ,size #c 4#bei ,size #d 4#bch ,size #e 4#bbj ,size #f 4#bjc ,size #g 4#ahj ,size #h 4#afe ,9 siz+ or measur+ ! cord1 x is pass$ easily into ! gauge1 s t x hugs ! sides )\t cr[d+4 ,any cords made heavi] ?an a ,no4 #a are designat$ by fractions ( "o in* 9 eigh?s4 ,x becomes necess>y 9 mak+ heavy r\nd cords1 su* z are us$ by a?letes & 9 ! manufacture ( airplanes1 to h a v durable cov]+ ov] ! /r&s ( rubb]4 ,su* a cov]+ is put on by us+ d\ble deck ma*9es1 :]e above ! regul> ma*9e !re is ano!r b$ plate hav+ a second set ( c>ri]s :i* travel ar\nd ! braid$ fabric com+ up f ! l[] deck4 ,9 su* cases ! inn] cov]+ is g5]ally a *eap co>se mat]ial1 :ile ! upp] deck ( c>ri]s braid ! out] cov]+ ar\nd x1 :i* is ( a high] grade mat]ial1 (t5 a highly glaz$ poli%$ ?read4 ,ma*9es are made ( a v>iable numb] ( c>ri]s to suit goods ( diff]5t "* t are requir$4 ,provision is made to c>ry ! rubb] beam 9 hang+ brackets und]nea? ! ma*9e1 :i* are ( suffici5t /r5g? & firmness to c>ry ! maximum weight necess>y = gov]n+ ! rubb] t5sion4 ,above ! ma*9e !re is a ge>-driv5 take-up %aft1 on :i* are t5sion rolls to gov]n ! fe$ ( ! goods :5 braid+4 ,! spe$ ( ^! rolls c be regulat$ by *ange ge>s ( v>i\s sizes4 ,! goods are !n f$ on a belt-driv5 spool4 ,on ! v heavy goods x is necess>y to pass !m ?r\gh o!r press rolls to prev5t any slipp+ back :5 fe$+ f ! braid]s4 ,,fancy ,,braid$ ,,cords ,! wide range ( goods ( ?is "*1 cov]+ s _m v>i$ uses1 makes x impracticable to p>ticul>ize on any special con/ruction4 ,9 ! mak+ ( braids & ,vi5na cords1 ! g5]al me?ods are mu* ! same z ^? describ$ = braid+ ! r\nd cords1 except t ! travel ( ! c>ri]s is diff]5t & ! /r&s ( rubb] are f$ up s+ly1 in/ead ( 9 a gr\p1 s t ! c>ri]s may pass 9 & out betwe5 !m4 ,a diff]5t ma*9e is requir$ = ! v>i\s wid?s & numb] ( /r&s ( rubb] us$4 ,two c>ri]s are requir$ = ea* /r& ( rubb] us$ & "o ov]4 ,= example1 an eight /r& braid requires #ag c>ri]s1 :ile a #aj /r& requires #ba1 & s on4 ,! wid? ( ! braid may be fur!r regulat$ by ! contraction ( ! goods det]m9$ ^u & provid$ = 9 ! take-up2 also by ! size & "* ( ! mat]ial us$ = cov]+4 ,on acc\nt ( ! diagonal =mation ( ! cov]+ ?reads :5 braid+1 x w be se5 t v>iable contraction ( ! web w produce v>iable wid?s4 ,?is is n s ) a wov5 ela/ic fabric1 inasmu* z ! weft lies /raight across ! web & !re=e ! same wid? is ma9ta9$ :e!r x is /ret*$ or o!rwise4 ,9 braid+1 ! ?reads move bo? across & l5g?wise ( ! fabric1 tak+ ! place ( bo? w>p & fill+1 !re=e increas$ contraction1 no matt] :e!r x is produc$ f ! use ( heavi] rubb]1 or *ang$ mat]ial or take-up1 results 9 great] wid?1 inasmu* z ! l5g?wise position ( ! ?reads is br\ght into a new position :i* is m ( a crosswise =mation4 ,?is diagonal lay ( ! cov]+ ?reads op5s up possibilities = v effective plaid effects1 b ?is is ! limit ( color elaboration4 ,a fancy frill effect may be obta9$ by ! omission ( rubb] ?reads at ! out] edges4 ,,*apt] ,,xi4 ,,weav+ ,,! ,,van ,,heus5 ,,coll> ,heavy ,loom ,requir$--,h[ ,long-,sid$ ,effect & ,fold+ ,l9e ,are ,obta9$--,clo? ,con/ruction ,until rec5tly ! s(t coll> 0 cut & c>v$ into %ape f pla9 piece goods4 ,! pat5t$ ,van ,heus5 coll> has done away ) mu* ( ?is1 = f ! loom is produc$ a fabric prop]ly %ap$ & =m$ = ! purpose1 & ready to be cut into suitable l5g?s4 ,x is adapt$ to v>i\s /yles4 ,clumsy jo9+s are done away ) & a coll> is produc$ :i* comb9es %ape1 com=t & appe>ance4 ,mu* labor 9 coll> manufactur+ is also elim9at$ by ?is me?od ( production4 ,!re h rec5tly be5 q a numb] ( factories put on ! production ( ^! goods1 & at lea/ "o newly organiz$ factory is devot$ exclusively to _! manufacture4 ,! ma9 feature 9 ! ,van ,heus5 coll> is t x is wov5 9 su* a mann] t :5 x leaves ! loom x is complete 9 respect ( ! clo? = ! b& & out] "p1 ) provision made = fold+1 ?us do+ away ) any jo9+ toge!r ( ! two p>ts z =m]ly4 ,! =mation ( a clo? hav+ ! novel quality ( all[+ = a great] wov5 l5g? at ! out] edge ( ! coll> ?an at ! b&1 prop]ly grad$ ?r\gh\t s z to meet all ! requirem5ts ( a coll> 9 com=t & fit1 at ! same "t provid+ = ! ins]tion ( ! sc>f s t x w run easily1 & also all[+ = ! production ( a v>iety ( /yles1 calls = features 9 manufactur+ t are diff]5t 9 _m respects f ! mak+ ( a flat fabric4 ,,heavy ,,loom ,,requir$ ,! fir/ ess5tial is a loom ( suffici5t /r5g? & firmness to )/& ! heavy beat ( ! lay result+ f pack+ 9 ! fill+1 :]e an aggregate weight ( #a1jjj p\nds = ea* individual piece mu/ be c>ri$4 ,! looms :i* are n[ be+ us$ h f #ab to #af pieces1 s t x w be se5 t !y mu/ be v rigid inde$ prop]ly to c>e = ! weight c>ri$ on ! comb9$ pieces1 & ma9ta9 uni=m pick+4 ,9 ord] also to get ! requisite %$ op5+1 ! /ra9 on ! cams & cam jacks is sev]e1 s t provision = ample /r5g? at ^! p>ts is ess5tial4 ,,cone-,,%ap$ ,,take-,,up ,,roll ,! long-sid$ =mation ( ! clo? is produc$ by ! use ( a cone-%ap$ take-up roll1 z %[n 9 ! illu/ration1 :i* has a slope ( #a in* 9 #f in*es4 ,above ?is cone-%ap$ roll is hung a /raight roll1 :i* sw+s freely to diff]5t angles1 s z to take c>e ( ! slack deliv]$ to ! take-up roll4 ,x w be notic$ t "o leg ( ! sw++ roll is long] ?an ! o!r1 ?us all[+ ! /raight roll to set 9 prop] position ov] ! cone4 ,at fir/ ?\ght x w\ld seem advisable to provide a rev]se cone-%ap$ take-up roll1 z %[n 9 ! illu/ration1 :i* has a slope ( #a ,transcrib]'s ,note3 ,x's possible t a l9e ( text 0 miss+ "h f ! orig9al pr9t+1 z ! s5t5ce doesn't make complete s5se ! impracticability ( su* an arrangem5t & ! /raight roll ) a free movem5t z describ$ is m desirable4 ,x is also necess>y1 or at lea/ advisable1 to use a slightly tap]$ roll on ! brea/ beam1 ov] :i* ! clo? passes4 ,,wov5 ,,9 ,,?ree ,,wid?s ,! fabric wov5 is made 9 ?ree wid?s1 #d in*es1 #d in*es & #e in*es1 ) ! fold+ l9e 9 diff]5t positions 9 ea* wid?1 s z to provide = diff]5t /yles4 ,! great am\nt ( /ock employ$ ov] ^! wid?s1 & ! diff]5ce 9 ! take-up betwe5 "o side ( ! web & ! o!r1 makes x necess>y to divide ! w>ps into sections & c>ry consid]able weight on ea*1 s z to obta9 a p]fect cle>ance 9 ! %$1 & pack ! fill+ 9 uni=mly4 ,,! ,,weave ,! weave employ$ is an ord9>y d\ble clo? pla91 made ) face1 back1 b9d] & gut4 ,x is necess>y to h #b back1 #b b9d]1 #d face & #d gut w>ps4 ,! accompany+ table w %[ ! numb] ( ?reads requir$ 9 ea* w>p1 toge!r ) ! weights c>ri$ on ea* "o4 ,,w>p ,,details ,,= ,,van ,,heus5 ,,coll> #d ,in* #d ,in* #e ,in* ,no4 ( ,?reads ,weight ,no4 ( ,?reads ,no4 ( ,?reads ,w>ps 7#fj_/b7 ,c>ri$ ,w>ps 7#fj_/b7 ,w>ps 7#fj_/b7 ,face #b #ii #h lbs4 ea* #b #aji #b #aai ,face #b #hb #g lbs4 ea* #b #ib #b #ajd ,back #a #aih #ac lbs4 ea* #a #bah #b #bch ,back #a #afd #ab lbs4 ea* #a #ahd #b #bjh ,b9d] #a #ii #aj lbs4 ea* #a #aji #a #aai ,b9d] #a #gh #g lbs4 ea* #a #hh #a #ajj ,gut #b #ii #h lbs4 ea* #b #aji #b #aai ,gut #b #gh #g lbs4 ea* #b #hh #b #ajj ,x is ess5tial t ^! w>ps be prop]ly sep>at$ at ! back rolls2 ,use ! fir/ roll = two b9d]1 second = #d face1 ?ird = #b back & f\r? = #d gut4 ,a #bd d5t back re$ %\ld be us$1 :i* w all[ = #d face1 #d gut1 #b back & #b b9d]s 9 ea* d5t1 :i* toge!r ) ! back roll sep>ation ( ! diff]5t w>ps makes x conv5i5t to h&le ! v>i\s w>p sections & keep ! ?reads /raight & conf9$ to ! limitations ( space available4 ,illu/ration3 ,take-,up ,giv+ ,long-,sid$ ,clo? ,,me?od ,,( ,,re$+ ,! front re$ us$ is a #dj d5t1 ) "o cord or sev5 ?reads to ea* d5t4 ,9 "s mills1 h[ev]1 great advantage has be5 f\nd 9 us+ a #bf d5t front re$1 draw+ #aj ?reads 9 "o d5t & #aa 9 ! next1 splitt+ betwe5 face & back1 :i* makes ! /ock "w mu* easi]1 & relatively increases ! output4 ,any t5d5cy to 8r[+0 caus$ by ! d5ts 9 ?is co>s] re$ are completely hidd5 9 ! blea*+ process4 ,illu/ration3 ,h>ness ,draft & ,weave = ,van ,heus5 ,coll> ,! fold+ l9e betwe5 ! neck b& & ! out] fold ( ! coll> is made by leav+ out ! b9d] & gut ?reads 9 f\r cords at ! desir$ po9t1 only reta9+ ! face & back ?reads4 ,! position ( ! fold+ l9e may be v>i$ 9 ea* ( ! ?ree /&>d wid?s to meet ! requirem5ts ( ! manufactur] & accord+ to ! /yle ( ! coll> desir$4 ,!re are #ajd picks p] in*1 c\nt+ at ! fold$ l9e1 z !re are m on ! %ort side & less on ! long side4 ,high grade #fj_/b ,c4 ,p4 y>n is us$ ?r\gh\t4 ,! goods are wov5 9 ! gray & blea*$ aft]w>ds4 ,knitt$ ,n>r[ ,fabrics ,by ,,william ,,davis1 ,m4,a4 ,bran* ( ! ,knitt+ ,indu/ry ,t ,pres5ts ,int]e/+ ,features--,y>n ,te/+--,manufacture ( ,clean]s & ,meat ,bags1 ,cov]+s = ,wires & ,cables1 ,fancy ,/it* & ,color$ ,effects = ,trimm+s--,use ( ,core ,?read to ,give ,/r5g? ,knitt+ ma*9e build]s are rem>kable = ! new inv5tions & adaptations !y are con/antly br++ out on _! ma*9es4 ,sev]al important conc]ns 9 ?is l9e h rec5tly be5 active 9 produc+ types to deal ) ! l>ge trade n[ be+ done 9 n>r[ fabrics = v>i\s purposes4 ,! ord9>y circul> knitt+ ma*9e ( small diamet] has long be5 recogniz$ z a suitable means ( mak+ trials ( new y>ns to judge h[ closely !y mat* ! orig9al sample1 because 9 knitt+ !re is n ! necessity ( elaborate w>p prep>ation & loom m\nt+4 ,! ma*9e g5]ally employ$ = ?is purpose is an ord9>y type ( /ock+ knitt] conta9+ #if or #aab ne$les4 ,if ! ma*9e is only to be employ$ z a sampl+ ma*9e x is by no means necess>y to h a full /ock+ ma*9e1 because 9 ?is "w x is nev] necess>y to use ! ribb] or dial :i* is always suppli$4 ,! "w ( sampl+ to %ade is done 9 mo/ weav+ or sp9n+ factories & a n>r[ wid? pla9 /it* knitt+ ma*9e is satisfactory = ! purpose4 ,x is usually q suitable to "w ! ma*9e by h&1 ow+ to ! small l5g?s requir$ & ! frequ5t *anges necess>y :5 te/+ diff]5t colors & qualities4 ,! lat* ne$le ma*9e is mu* bett] = ?is purpose ?an ! be>d$ ne$le frame ow+ to ! simplicity ( loop =mation & also ow+ to ! facility ) :i* small or ?ick y>ns c be made to give good "w on ! ma*9e ) suitable adju/m5t ( ! /it* t5sions4 ,x is also us$ z a means ( produc+ samples ( color1 z ! v>i\s colors c be introduc$ rapidly "o aft] ! o!r on ?is ma*9e4 ,?is type ( frame ) ! ne$les /ation>y1 & revolv+ cams & ?read guide has f ! fir/ be5 recogniz$ z ! be/ adapt$ = knitt+ gas mantles f ramie4 ,! y>n is work+ 9 long l5g?s on a n>r[ wid? circul> knitt+ ma*9e us+ ! lat* ne$le & ?is fabric is aft]w>ds cut into l5g?s accord+ to ! mantles be+ produc$4 ,mantles ( diff]5t sizes c be obta9$ by us+ diff]5t diamet]s ( ma*9es z suppli$ by ma*9e build]s = ?is purpose4 ,9 mo/ h>dw>e e/abli%m5ts & dep>tm5t /ores "o sees wov5 metal mat]ial knitt$ into fabric on su* ma*9es1 & int5d$ to be us$ = clean+ pots & pans 9 h\sehold "w4 ,! wire has a %>p edge s z to grip ! matt] to be remov$4 ,knitt+ ! metal mat]ial into loop$ =m enables ! product to d its "w ) ! greate/ effici5cy4 ,ano!r side l9e ( ! knitt+ indu/ry is ! production ( :at are kn[n z meat bags1 ) :i* ! c>casses ( froz5 & ord9>y mutton & beef are cov]$ prior to transport4 ,^! bags are usually made on circul> knitt+ ma*9es ( l>ge diamet] us+ ! lat* ne$le1 & z ! size ( ! y>n is f9e comp>$ to ! set ( ! ne$les a gauze-l "* is obta9$ :i* all[s free circulation ( air z well z af=d+ a clean me?od ( h&l+ ! meat & protect+ x 9 ! c\rse ( transport on %ip1 tra9 & truck4 ,,pla9 ,,knitt$ ,,tube ,examples are giv5 by ! accompany+ illu/rations ( a few products ( ! n>r[ fabric bran* ( ! trade4 ,x w be evid5t at once :at an int]e/+ field ( application is af=d$ by ?is division ( ! knitt+ indu/ry4 ,fig4 #a %[s a pla9 knitt$ fabric work$ 9 circul> =m on a knitt+ ma*9e us+ ! lat* ne$le 9 :i* we h #dj ne$les 9 ! circumf]5ce1 s t 9 ?is tube1 front & back1 are #dj /it*es %[n "h 9 flat =m4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #a ,fig4 #b ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #c ,fig4 #d ,x is evid5t t ?is tub+ c be us$ = ! purpose ( cov]+ wires & cables :i* slide inside ! fabric4 ,x has m ela/icity ?an wov5 fabric ( simil> =m & is g5]ally produc$ 9 a m simple & direct mann]4 ,x %\ld be po9t$ out1 h[ev]1 t ?is fabric is susceptible to be+ torn & if x breaks at any po9t a little fur!r /ra9 w cause x to unravel 9 a rapid mann]4 ,?us x is cle> t x _c be us$ by itself to any great ext5t 9 cases :]e great /ra9 or pull w be appli$ to x4 ,made 9 suitable mat]ials1 !re is no?+ to h9d] ?is tube f s]v+ z lamp wicks4 ,,introduction ,,( ,,fancy ,,/it* ,fig4 #b %[s ! same fabric ) a fancy /it* introduc$ at "o ne$le on ! cyl9d] ( ! knitt+ ma*9e to produce :at is kn[n z 8tuck0 "w4 ,9 ?is "w ! ne$le 9 "q is made to hold its ?read = "o c\rse )\t knock+ ov] its loop1 & takes a second ?read on ! next c\rse s t two ?reads are knock$ ov] toge!r1 giv+ rise to ! effect %[n 9 ! middle ( ! illu/ration4 ,?is effect is produc$ by ins]t+ a ne$le at ?is po9t ) a lat* :i* is long] ?an ! o!r ne$le lat*es ( ! ma*9e1 ) ! result t x does n knock ov] its /it*es ) ! ord9>y ne$les unless x receives a specially deep draw d[n1 :i* x gets e second c\rse4 ,all ! /it*es made on ?is ne$le are d\ble z comp>$ ) ! s+le /it*es 9 ! re/ ( ! tube4 ,9 a ma*9e ) #bj ne$les 9 ! circumf]5ce1 "o ne$le w\ld be ins]t$ ) ?is extra long lat* to give a tuck /it* "r d[n ! tube4 ,z reg>ds ! position ( ! fabric at :i* ! tuck effect is made to %[1 ?is is entirely a matt] ( arrangem5t 9 fold+ ! tube4 ,accord+ to ! l9e ( fold+ ! tuck effect c be made to appe> 9 ! middle or at ! side4 ,fur!r examples ( ?is /yle ( n>r[ fabric are giv5 9 ,figs4 #c & #d1 made on ! same diamet] ( ma*9e4 ,9 ,fig4 #c ! tuck /it* is made bo? front & back ( ! tape2 t is1 a long lat* ne$le is ins]t$ 9 ! cyl9d] e t5? ne$le s t !re are two 9 ! circumf]5ce 9 place ( ! s+le l9e 9 ,fig4 #b4 ,9 ,fig4 #c ! second v]tical l9e ( tuck+ /it*es appe>s on ! back ( ! fabric directly "u ! l9e %[n on ! face1 & ?is has ! effect ( mak+ ! tuck /it* m pron\nc$4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #e ,fig4 #f ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #g ,fig4 #h ,9 ,fig4 #d x w be recogniz$ t ?is idea is fur!r develop$ by hav+ two v]tical r[s ( tuck /it*es %[+ on ! face ( ! tube1 & ^! are supplem5t$ by two o!rs plac$ directly "u !m on ! o!r side ( ! fabric1 ?us giv+ a total ( f\r long lat* ne$les 9 ! circumf]5ce ( ! ma*9e4 ,to give ! prop] effect1 ! tube z obta9$ f ! ma*9e has to be c>efully press$ s z to %[ ! fancy effect at ! correct place1 = if ! tube gets out ( alignm5t at any po9t1 ?is w affect ! =m ( ! patt]n4 ,,use ,,= ,,trimm+s ,9 ! knitt+ indu/ry su* pieces ( tub+ fold$ d\ble are f\nd extremely useful 9 trimm+ g>m5ts1 p>ticul>ly 9 ! circul> or cut trade1 :]e s mu* dep5ds on hav+ articles ta/efully ornam5t$ at a mod]ate co/4 ,at pres5t ! manufactur] has (t5 to buy ^! t\*es ( trimm+s f ! outside4 ,! great advantage ( do+ ! "w on 8 own premises & on 8 own ma*9es is t he c in/all su* a ma*9e at a v mod]ate co/ & place among 8 ord9>y knitt+ ma*9es at little or no extra co/ = me*anics4 ,,patt]ns ,,) ,,color$ ,,y>ns ,sev]al o!r examples are giv5 h]e) ( ! application ( ?is pr9ciple ( ! lat* ne$le knitt+ ma*9e = tubul> fabrics suitable = n>r[ tapes or ribbons4 ,fig4 #e illu/rates a fabric produc$ on a ma*9e ( /ill n>r[] dim5sions1 hav+ only #ab ne$les 9 ! circumf]5ce ( ! ma*9e4 ,9 ?is case ! patt]n effect is introduc$ by hav+ sev]al fe$s ( ?read 9 ! circumf]5ce2 ?ree diff]5t colors are employ$ & introduc$ 9 ! ord] ( "o :ite1 "o black1 & "o tan all ! way d[n ! fabric1 ?us giv+ rise to a /yle ( patt]n :i* is v suitable = _m purposes ( ! knitt+ manufactur]1 p>ticul>ly ( out] g>m5ts4 ,!re are ?ree y>n fe$s r\nd ! circumf]5ce ( ?is ma*9e & e revolution ( ! ma*9e creates ?ree c\rses 9 ! ?ree colors nam$4 ,x w be not$ t ?is gives rise to a color effect %[+ at a decid$ angle to ! "r1 9 place ( be+ exactly horizontal1 z w\ld be approximately ! case 9 a ma*9e ( l>g] diamet]4 ,?is is "o ( ! defects ( all ma*9es ( ?is "* :]e sev]al fe$s are us$4 ,!y create a decid$ly spiral t5d5cy & ! color effects appe> at an angle4 ,9 _m cases ?is is no disadvantage1 b r ! rev]se1 z x takes away ! /iffness ( ! color s*eme & produces attractive effects 9 twill fa%ion simil> to :at c only be creat$ 9 wov5 goods by ! aid ( ! corkscrew weave & an elaborate sett+ ( ! clo?4 ,fabrics ( ! "* %[n 9 ,fig4 #e are v useful = edg+ p>ts ( knitt+ coats1 jump]s or ve/+s1 ^! edg+s giv+ a suitable f9i% = ! edges ( ! g>m5t4 ,9 addition to ! color feature1 ^! b&s are (t5 made 9 a tight t5sion s z to give a rigid clo? :i* w /r5g!n c]ta9 p>ts at :i* extra pull is appli$1 enabl+ ! g>m5t to reta9 its %ape4 ,,knitt$ ,,cords ,fig4 #f gives a view ( a n>r[ fabric made on a circul> lat* ne$le knitt+ ma*9e ) only six ne$les 9 ! cyl9d]4 ,!re are two fe$s1 "o supply+ blue y>n to ! ne$les & ! o!r supply+ gre51 ! patt]n be+ alt]nate c\rses ( gre5 & blue4 ,! mat]ial is artificial silk & ! cord1 = x is no?+ m1 is employ$ = ?read+ ?r\gh c]ta9 g>m5ts :i* h a k9d ( op5 trimm+ ?r\gh ! spaces ( :i* ?is cord is pass$ to complete ! draw+ toge!r ( ! "p4 ,v (t5 ^! draw+ toge!r cords are provid$ ) tassels at _! extreme ends to af=d a fur!r ornam5tal feature4 ,fig4 #g gives ano!r v>iation ( ?is patt]n produc$ on ! same ma*9e :]e ! c\rses alt]nate ) ea* o!r 9 r$ & gre54 ,?is sample %[s ! facility ) :i* new color bl5ds c be produc$ to mat* any color ( gr\nd g>m5t4 ,"o bobb9 is simply replac$ ) ano!r on ! ma*9e1 or bo? may be *ang$4 ,9 ?is patt]n aga9 a decid$ t5d5cy is %[n = ! effect to run 9 ! direction ( ! "r ow+ to ! t5d5cy to a spiral effect4 ,,use ,,( ,,core ,,?read ,9 "s cases ! cord made ( ! knitt$ fabric itself is too ela/ic & lacks ! t5sile /r5g? requir$ = c]ta9 purposes4 ,9 ?is ev5t x is an easy matt] to arrange t a c5t] core ?read be run into ! ma*9e z ! fabric is be+ knitt$4 ,! core ?read is made ( "s /rong1 non-ela/ic mat]ial & is arrang$ on a bobb9 above ! ma*9e4 ,t mat]ial is drawn (f its bobb9 & passes d[n ! c5t] ( ! circle ( ne$les s t x is completely cov]$ by ! knitt$ fabric4 ,its use consid]ably /r5g!ns ! cord & makes x suitable = c]ta9 purposes = :i* x o!rwise w\ld n be satisfactory4 ,fig4 #h %[s a sample ( an actual cord made on ! same type ( ma*9e :]e we h only f\r ne$les 9 ! cyl9d]1 ^! be+ work$ ) two y>n fe$s1 "o black & "o :ite1 giv+ a "o & "o black & :ite effect 9 ! cord4 ,= ?is /yle x is necess>y to h a core ?read ( mat]ial :i* passes into ! c5t] ( ! tube z ! knitt+ proce$s4 ,?is makes ! cord bulk l>g] & causes x to be q r\nd 9 effect4 ,! smalle/ cord ( ?is "* is produc$ f "o lat* ne$le by an arrangem5t su* z is suppli$ ) ! ,union ,special sew+ ma*9e1 :]e ! lat* ne$le works by p[]1 ent]s its loop & takes ! new ?read1 :i* x draws ?r\gh ! old "o1 ?us mak+ an endless *a9 ( loops 9 a v rapid mann]4 ,^! /r+s are us$ z ! gr\nd "w ( ! ornam5tal edg+s produc$ on ?is ma*9e4 ,,! ,,abbott ,,press1 ,,new ,,york