,elastic and ,non-,elastic ,narrow ,fabrics ,by ,,samuel ,,brown and a ,chapter on ,narrow ,fabrics ,made on ,knitting ,machines ,by ,,william ,,davis1 ,m4,a4 ,this book originally appeared serially in ,,textile ,,world and has been republished in this form at the urgent request of many readers4 ,,bragdon1 ,,lord ,,nagle ,,co4 ,,textile ,,publishers #ccd ,,fourth ,,avenue ,,new ,,york ,copyright #aibc ,,bragdon1 ,,lord ,,nagle ,,co4 ,new ,york ,elastic and ,non-,elastic ,narrow ,fabrics ,,chapter ,i4 ,growth of ,webbing ,business--,attempts to ,substitute ,cut ,products for ,individually ,woven ,webs ,made on ,gang ,looms--,loom ,setting to ,reduce ,vibration--,capacity of ,looms and ,explanation of the ,various ,motions ,that ,are ,employed ,when we think of the discovery of rubber vulcanization and the effect it has had on world affairs our minds naturally turn to the big things1 such as the automobile industry with its millions of rubber tires in constant use4 ,these may crowd from our notice a thousand and one smaller things of importance4 ,it is difficult to fully realize how many comforts and conveniences we derive from rubber and not the least among them is the multiplicity of woven fabrics which are used both for comfort and convenience in a variety of ways and for innumerable purposes4 ,it is not only in such things as garters and suspenders1 with which our minds may first associate elastic webs1 that these fabrics are used1 but they find employment in a variety of other products1 which are growing more numerous all the time4 ,today there are in operation thousands of looms and braiders1 in which many millions of dollars are invested and in the operation of which1 together with complementary machinery1 about ten thousand people are employed4 ,it was about the year #ahdj when the idea of weaving threads of elastic in connection with other materials was first conceived4 ,after long experiments this was accomplished in the very simplest form of weaving4 ,new ideas were from time to time introduced1 and new uses found for the product1 until now it covers a large variety of both plain and fancy weaves1 and the multiplicity of uses are so varied that few realize them who are not closely associated with the business4 ,,american ,,industry ,,started ,,about #ahfj ,it was not until about the year #ahfj that elastic web weaving was introduced into this country1 although for a number of years previous ,england and ,germany1 and also ,france in a small way1 had found here a market for their product1 particularly in cords1 braids and shoe goring1 which at that particular time was fast growing in popularity4 ,about #ahfj1 a few looms which had been used1 were brought over from ,england and located at ,easthampton1 ,mass41 and the manufacture of shoe goring commenced4 ,the rubber thread required was for some time imported from ,england4 ,the business grew rapidly1 and factories were established in a number of cities1 more particularly at ,boston1 ,lowell and ,brockton1 ,mass41 ,bridgeport1 ,conn41 and ,camden1 ,n4 ,j4 ,an unfortunate labor dispute took place about the year #ahij1 which developed into a long-drawn out strike1 ultimately precipitating friction between the shoe trade and the goring web manufacturers1 which finally ended in a positive boycott of this product from which the trade has never recovered4 ,most of the looms which were up to this time devoted to shoe goring have been remodeled and are now used in the making of other types of elastic fabrics4 ,in passing1 it may be interesting to note that some of the looms originally brought from ,england #fj years ago are still in operation and doing excellent work along other lines4 ,,attempts ,,to ,,use ,,wide ,,looms ,attempts have been made from time to time to weave elastics on wide looms1 the cloth being divided at intervals by open spaces in the warps at the front reed1 at either side of which spaces binding threads were woven in4 ,these narrow strips were spaced in the front reed according to the different widths which might be required1 and could easily be changed to meet the varying requirements by redrawing a few threads1 inasmuch as the whole weave was uniform throughout the full width of the cloth4 ,between these spaces1 but at a point away from the weaving line1 were arranged stationary knives by which the cloth was cut into the requisite widths while it was being woven1 and as it gradually passed by the knife edges4 ,these knives were so arranged that they could be adjusted to new positions when it became necessary to change the widths of the individual strips4 ,while this method was more economical than weaving individual webs in gang looms1 the labor cost being much less1 the narrow webs produced having the cut selvages lacked the finished appearance which the individually woven webs had4 ,and sometimes the binding threads would give way1 so that the fabrics were not well received by the trade1 and ultimately the demand for them died out4 ,attempts were made to supersede the individually woven strips in another direction by the use of two finely woven pieces of cloth1 one to form the back1 and the other to form the face of the goods1 with an elastic substance mechanically stretched out and inserted between the two4 ,these different parts were calendered together and afterward cut into strips of the desired widths4 ,this method was not without many advantages4 ,strips of different widths were easily made without the costly method of redrawing the warps in the looms4 ,an unlimited choice of both plain and fancy fabrics could be used1 having if desired distinctly different appearances and constructions for face and back1 and this alone opened up a wide range of possibilities4 ,the finished cloth lent itself admirably to fancy embossing and printing and to various other forms of elaboration4 ,but somehow the trade did not take to it1 and this also finally died out4 ,the trade ultimately settled down to the weaving of elastic goods of all kinds1 both plains and fancies1 in gang looms1 and the business has steadily grown ever since along these lines4 ,,straight ,,shuttle ,,and ,,circular ,,shuttle ,,looms ,the looms employed are very varied1 inasmuch as the requirements cover a wide range and new uses are constantly arising with new demands4 ,the simplest form of weaving is that employed on the making of webs such as are mostly used for garters1 and which are also used for many other simple purposes in nearly every household4 ,these webs are commonly known as loom webs1 lisles and cables4 ,they are generally made on plain1 narrow1 cam looms1 some of which are capable of accommodating as many as #ef pieces or strips at one time4 ,there are two distinct types of loom employed1 one of which is known as the straight shuttle and the other the circular shuttle loom4 ,in the former type1 the straight shuttle1 in traveling across the different spaces1 takes up more room than the circular shuttle1 and thus somewhat curtails the number of pieces which can be operated in the loom1 limiting capacity of production1 and relatively increasing the cost4 ,very few of the straight shuttle looms accommodate more than #cf shuttles1 according to the width of the goods required4 ,the circular shuttles travel over a segment of a circle and cross over each other's tracks in their movement through the shed1 as shown in ,fig4 #a4 ,this permits the crowding of the pieces of web closer together1 so that many more can be accommodated in the same loom space than when the straight shuttle is used4 ,this type sometimes runs as high as #ef shuttles to the loom4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #a4--;,circular ,shuttle ,webbing ,loom ,illustration3 ,fig4 #b4--,rack and ,pinion ,movement for ,actuating ,shuttles ,,prevent ,,loom ,,vibration ,these looms often are speeded as high as #ahj picks per minute4 ,to operate at this speed with so many pieces of web and make satisfactory goods1 free from thick and thin places through irregularities of speed or variable momentum in running1 a very heavy type of loom is necessary4 ,they should be erected on solid foundations so as to eliminate all possible vibration4 ,a solid concrete floor into which timbers have been properly set so that the feet of the looms may be securely anchored into them is the ideal way1 but where this is not practicable at least heavy foundation timbers for anchoring the loom feet to should be arranged4 ,the frames of the looms should be heavy2 also the main driving shaft1 which should have wide bearings so as to prolong the life of the shaft at the wearing points and obviate loose play in the boxes4 ,the crankshafts must also be very heavy and there should be enough of them so as to rigidly withstand the repeated beat of the lay without liability to take on any loose motion1 which would be fatal to the production of perfect goods4 ,weight and strength here is very essential1 inasmuch as it is not practical to get a direct line from the shaft to the lay on account of the harness movement1 and they must be built to drop below the harnesses which form makes them subject to heavy strain at the beat of the lay4 ,they should also be made adjustable1 each arm having a heavy left and right threaded insert1 so that the length of the weaving line may be changed to meet the varying requirements of different webs4 ,they should also be constructed so that any wear may be taken up4 ,the lay itself must necessarily be very heavy4 ,it is generally constructed of several thicknesses of timber of different kinds1 so as to avoid any possibility of warping and shrinkage4 ,the shuttles used are mostly made of applewood4 ,while they must run smooth and be free from the risk of slivers they must at the same time be very light so as to be freely drawn across the multiple of web spaces4 ,it will be easily seen that the drawing of so many shuttles over a space of about three times their length1 at possibly #ahj picks per minute1 carrying and delivering the necessary weft to the webs1 each thread of weft being checked to a certain extent by friction springs1 requires great care and thought in construction4 ,shuttle wood must be thoroughly seasoned by age or it will not serve the purpose4 ,the shuttles themselves are very ingeniously constructed so as to accommodate the greatest possible amount of filling1 together with the necessary space for springs to properly manipulate the tensions4 ,each shuttle is bored through at either side so as to allow for the insertion of a fine recoil spring1 which is made fast at one end of the drilled hole at the back of the shuttle4 ,to the other end of the spring is attached a small porcelain eye1 through which is threaded the weft1 making it possible to govern and take up by the action of the spring the loose filling which is thrown off as the shuttle passes and repasses through the shed4 ,these side recoil springs are not only useful for the taking up of the loose filling but allow for a variety of threading up methods1 so as to assist in the governing of the tension of the weft at one or both sides of the web1 and thus afford a means of weaving the goods level4 ,they aid in correcting any tendency to long and short sided goods1 of which we will say more later4 ,at the back of the quill or shuttle spool is arranged another spring on which is swivelled a porcelain device which presses against the quill1 and can be so regulated as to govern the tension4 ,this spring is so tempered that the most delicate adjustment of tension can be made4 ,,rack ,,and ,,pinion ,,movement ,the shuttles across the entire width of the loom are drawn to and fro by what is known as the rack and pinion movement4 7,see ,fig4 #b74 ,this method has pretty generally superseded the old-time plan of rise and fall pegs4 ,the rack runs back and forth in a slot grooved in the top of the lay bed1 ,a1 the entire length of the loom4 ,to the rack is attached leather straps ,g1 or heavily woven fabric straps1 with which the rack ,b is pulled to and fro at each pick of the loom4 ,the rack is of wood1 having rounded teeth-paced approximately one-third of an inch apart4 ,into the rack are meshed pinions ,c1 two to carry each shuttle ,e1 the teeth of which are correspondingly spaced4 ,the rack is set into a wood carrier which is about one inch deep and one inch wide1 and the full length of the lay4 ,the pinions are made of either raw hide or paper fibre1 and these pinions again mesh into a series of racks ,d1 grooved in on the under side of each shuttle1 and thus drive the shuttle to and fro across the web spaces ,j4 ,the constant travel of the driving rack running in the groove at the top of the lay bed necessarily produces more or less wear at the bottom of the rack4 ,it therefore is advisable to place underneath this rack a false bottom of wood of about -inch thick1 which after becoming worn by constant use and contact with the ever-moving rack may be easily taken out and replaced by a new one1 thus keeping the rack and pinions and shuttles at all times in proper mesh with each other4 ,the rack is drawn backwards and forwards by the before-mentioned straps1 which are passed over pulleys and are either fastened to the rack by means of wood screws1 or securely locked with a metal clamp designed for this purpose4 ,these straps are sometimes separated by a pair of cams set on a shaft making one revolution to each two picks of the loom4 ,the power from these cams is first communicated to eccentrically-shaped wood pulleys1 moving backwards and forwards1 which are so formed as to start and stop the shuttles slowly1 and to operate them at a higher rate of speed during their passage through the middle of the shed4 ,this movement is necessary to avoid a too early entrance of the shuttle into the weaving shed before the harness is properly settled1 and also to soften the hammering at the close of its travel so as to reduce the wear and tear4 ,it might be well to note here also that this hammering is also softened by the placing of a piece of soft rubber ,h at each end of the rack run1 so that the rack strikes this soft cushion each time it goes home4 ,while the cam method has been extensively used to produce the kind of movement most desirable for the travel of the shuttle1 it has its drawback in the momentum produced1 which it is often found difficult to control4 ,the ,crompton ,knowles ,loom ,works have designed a shuttle motion which effectively governs the desired speeds in the travel of the shuttles while they are entering1 passing through1 and leaving the shed1 by a dwelling movement operated by a series of gear wheels and oscillating slotted rocker4 ,it is absolutely positive in action and does away with the uncontrollable and erratic movement so often met with in the cam drive4 ,,movement ,,of ,,harnesses ,four-pick cams are all that are necessary to produce the plain webs which are used for ordinary purposes4 ,however1 it is not the practice to confine looms to the limitations of this capacity1 but to put in either #h or #ab-pick cams4 ,these1 besides providing means to make the plain weave1 open up possibilities for a number of other weaves and combinations of weaves1 which add materially to the usefulness of the loom4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #c4--;,direct ,cam ,movement ,illustration3 ,fig4 #d4--,loom with ,side ,cam ,method of ,harness ,control ,there are two distinct types of cam movements used in looms of this character for the making of ordinary webs4 ,one is known as the direct cam drive1 where the cams are fitted on a #d to #a shaft1 as shown in ,fig4 #c1 which runs lengthwise of the loom and from which the power is communicated to the harnesses through a series of levers ,a1 rocking poles ,b1 levers ,c1 and lifting wires to the harness ,d4 ,the other movement is known as the end-cam method1 where a small shaft is set at the end of the loom1 running at right angles to the driving shaft 7,see ,fig4 #d7 from which it is driven by bevel gears4 ,on this short shaft are set the cams1 usually #h or #ab in number1 which have a series of grooves at their center so as to afford means of timing them in different positions on a feather key which runs the full length of the shaft4 ,these cams operate what is known as the cam jacks1 which may also be seen in ,fig4 #d4 ,the jacks are hung at the middle and are moved backwards and forwards by the cams1 communicating movement to the various harnesses4 ,the harnesses are connected at both the top and bottom of the jacks4 ,this connection at both ends of the jacks makes it possible to run the looms at a very high rate of speed1 as there are no weights or springs to contend with1 which limits speed4 ,while the first described method of direct cams has some advantages over the end cams1 such looms are not nearly so economical to operate as the end cams on account of the limited speed attainable4 ,while the harnesses are lifted by means of the cams they have to be pulled down by weights or springs4 ,the means of shed adjustment1 however1 enables the attaining of a well graded shed4 ,furthermore1 the cams themselves can be so set on the shaft as to afford means of timing the movements of the different harnesses so that excellent and easy shedding results may be obtained4 ,but the one great disadvantage is the limitation of the weaves attainable1 which limitation is largely overcome by the end-cam method4 ,when the direct cam movement is used1 and where the goods being woven are of such a character as to demand a very slow speed of the loom1 it is practicable to bring the harnesses down by weighting them with wide flat weights of the requisite size4 ,but where higher speed is required than is advisable for weighted harnesses1 springs are more desirable4 ,the simplest form of pulling do the harnesses is by the use of floor blocks and direct springs4 ,there is1 however1 a disadvantage in using the direct spring on account of the pull increasing until the extreme lift of the harness is reached1 which necessarily increases materially the power expended in operating same and makes an unnecessary strain4 ,the better way is to use what is known as spring jacks1 which have an easier pull than the direct spring inasmuch as the load eases off on the pull1 diminishing from the greatest pull at the start to the lightest pull at the extreme lift on the lever1 so that the load is uniformly distributed all through the movement and less power is employed4 ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,looms ,should ,be ,adapted to ,make a ,wide ,variety of ,goods--,take-,up and ,let-,off ,motions--,making the ,rubber ,warps for ,different ,classes of ,web--,importance of ,uniform ,tension--,defects from ,uneven ,tension and ,chafing of ,threads ,the greatest care is necessary in planning out the details of the harness4 ,on account of the great length it becomes necessary that everything possible be done to avoid any chance of warping or sagging1 for the least irregularity which may be developed will of course interfere with the evenness of the shed4 ,the harness frames must be made of the very best stock obtainable1 thoroughly seasoned1 and absolutely straight grained4 ,each frame must be supported at regular and frequent intervals by stays or supports mortised in the runners4 ,these stays are slotted at top and bottom to receive the heddle bars and keep them accurately in line1 and thus prevent them from catching on the neighboring harness during the operation of the shedding process4 ,it is necessary also that the top and bottom heddle bars be accurately spaced so as to allow proper freedom for the heddles to ride easily on the bars1 and thus avoid any binding of heddles which would have a tendency to crowd the warp stock together and prevent clearance of the shed4 ,steel heddles are preferable to ones that bend and twist more or less and get out of alignment4 ,they are made from tempered steel which is very flexible and they have round cornerless eyes that cannot possibly catch or chafe the warp threads4 ,they adjust themselves automatically to the frame and cannot twist or bend while at work1 and are made to accommodate themselves to every conceivable kind of goods4 ,,install ,,looms ,,for ,,wide ,,range ,in installing looms for narrow elastic fabrics it is advisable to make ample provision for creeling the warps necessary for the different fabrics which may from time to time be required4 ,in the manufacture of the light single cloth garter webs1 not more than two warps to the piece are required1 a face warp and a gut warp1 and the temptation to save a little in the initial cost possibly may suggest a limitation of creel spaces to immediate requirements4 ,added expense may seem for the time being an unnecessary burden4 ,but very soon there may arise a call for other goods which cannot be made within the limitations of the two bank creel2 therefore changes become necessary which are generally much heavier than first cost would have been4 ,nothing less than a five bank creel should be installed4 ,many times the availability of six banks has solved knotty problems of warp division to care for the various weaves and materials employed in some constructions4 ,if the entire capacity of the larger creel is not required when first starting it will not be necessary to clothe all of it with levers1 buttons1 etc41 which may be procured later4 ,but by all means ample provision should be made for the full frame work and supporting rods for same4 ,,take-,,up ,,motion ,another important consideration is to make proper provision for a reliable take-up motion1 so that the goods may be taken away from the reed while weaving without any liability to variableness4 ,this liability was present in many of the earlier looms and exists in some of the mills today4 ,the old-time fine ratchet gear1 even when provided with a number of pawls1 is always liable to erratic picking1 which alone will ruin an otherwise perfect piece of goods and materially change the cost of manufacturing4 ,a slight irregularity of picking may not be discernible in non-elastic goods1 which will be satisfactory so long as the variableness is not easily seen and a reasonable average of picks per inch is maintained4 ,but in elastic goods1 where the contraction takes place after they leave the press rolls1 every irregularity is revealed and intensified so there is no room to take chances4 ,the only safe way is to employ picking gears making one tooth to each pick of the loom1 and then to change the gears when different picking becomes necessary4 ,in many of the existing looms there has been no adequate provision made for the weaver to let the web back to the reed mechanically when a joining becomes necessary through the breaking of the filling while weaving1 or where a quill may have run off unnoticed4 ,it is almost impossible to make a joining satisfactorily without proper mechanism being provided for this purpose4 ,in some of the slow running looms provision is made for this by the operation of each set of rolls independently 7see ,fig4 #a71 by means of the ratchet gear and pawl ,a and worm motion ,b4 ,this plan has the one disadvantage of taking up too much space between the individual pieces4 ,where the fabric woven is say four or five inches wide1 and the space will admit1 it is all that can be desired1 and the individually weighted rollers ,c associated with the motion are admirably adapted to variable pressure4 ,for the very narrow elastic fabrics1 which require considerable roller pressure to hold the web snug and firm while weaving1 and where it is necessary to make very accurate joinings after a break has occurred1 a better movement is one in which the web roll is placed on the main take-up shaft in the form of a sleeve4 ,it is carried around by the shaft as it turns while the goods are being woven1 but can be released and turned both backwards and forwards by a conveniently placed hand wheel1 which operates a series of differential gears4 ,this movement is entirely independent of the movement of the main take-up shaft drive4 ,,tension ,,on ,,rubber ,,warp ,too much importance cannot be attached to properly controlling the tension of the rubber warp4 ,on its uniformity depends not only the quality1 but also the cost of the web4 ,the greater the weight of slack rubber woven into the web the more costly it becomes and the poorer the quality4 ,a very accurate sense of touch is required in testing the tension of the rubber threads as they are being delivered into the goods4 ,the rubber warp requires the highest possible tension before breaking or chafing of the thread takes place4 ,each rubber thread should be under this high tension so that when the goods come through the press roll the desired contraction will take place uniformly1 and a flat piece of web will be produced that will have plenty of life4 ,it must always be remembered that the individual threads of rubber which constitute a rubber warp will act as a series of small springs1 working in unison with each other4 ,each one should have equal power to contract the fabric at its own particular part4 ,if any one of these strands or springs is chafed and weakened1 it lessens the contracting power1 and the result is that the weakened or less contracted part is of relatively greater length than the parts where the rubber threads have retained their full power4 ,moreover1 the appearance of the goods will be spoiled by the chafed particles of rubber pricking through the face1 particularly on the white and lighter colored goods4 ,before such webs can be marketed they must be subjected to a buffing operation to remove these dirty particles1 which is accomplished by passing them over a highly speeded1 cloth covered roller1 which will remove the loose particles by friction and high velocity4 ,but this operation adds to the cost4 ,a high and uniform tension of the rubber warp is so important that most manufacturers keep men specially employed in the testing of the threads1 instead of leaving this matter to the weavers4 ,these testers acquire such a keen sense of touch that they can obtain very economical and satisfactory results4 ,talc or soapstone is freely used as a lubricant to reduce the risk of chafing and breaking of the rubber threads4 ,the warps are arranged so as to allow the threads to pass through a bed of plush1 loaded with talc1 which adheres to the rubber threads and makes them work very smoothly4 ,this is especially important in damp weather1 which is the worst condition for the weaving of elastic goods4 ,at times factories have stopped operations when the weather was especially humid4 ,,let-,,off ,,motion ,illustration3 ,fig4 #a4--;,individual ,take-,up ,motion for ,wide ,space ,looms ,illustration3 ,fig4 #b4--;,individual ,rubber ,warp ,let-,off ,motion ,when we remember that the front reed will pass by the rubber threads possibly six or seven hundred times from their entrance into the shed to their reaching the leaving line1 it is not to be wondered at that chafing is liable to take place4 ,with all this liability of spoiling goods it becomes readily apparent that any device employed to regulate such an important feature as the tension of the rubber warps must be very sensitive and dependable4 ,on looms making wide goods1 and where space will allow1 regulation is accomplished by a worm and gear movement as shown in ,fig4 #b4 ,the iron rubber beam is threaded on to a square shaft ,a1 at one end of which a gear wheel ,b is fastened4 ,in this gear is meshed the worm ,c1 which is operated by a heavy linen cord ,d passed twice around a pulley ,e4 ,the cord derives its movement from a rocking shaft ,f1 on which there is fastened a screw extension ,g1 by which adjustment can be made so as to deliver very accurately any amount from the rubber beam4 ,with this kind of movement1 and in order to feed the thread uniformly into the web1 it becomes necessary to use mechanically made warps where the same uniformity has been maintained in putting the warps on the beams4 ,the warps so made must come from the thread manufacturer in individual warps1 which are done up in chain form1 each warp containing the requisite number of threads4 ,,making ,,rubber ,,warps ,the machine used for making the warps1 shown at ,fig4 #c1 is mounted on an iron frame ,a1 which carries the power driven warp beam ,b4 ,behind this is an open top expansion reed ,c1 the dents of which are regulated to open1 coarse or fine by an internal spring which is regulated by a hand wheel4 ,this reed also has a screw sidewise adjustment for centering4 ,behind the reed ,c are fixed two pairs of nip rolls1 ,d and ,e1 and an open roller ,f1 which is followed by a belt-driven beater roll ,g1 used to beat the threads out straight as they leave the chain4 ,the rubber warp is first laid on a cloth on the floor1 under the beater roll4 ,the end is then passed over the beater roll ,g1 over the open roll ,f1 through the two pairs of nip rolls ,d and ,e1 over the expansion reed ,c1 and then looped to a leader on the rubber beam1 where the knot is put in a counter-sink on the beam barrel1 so as not to interfere with the lay of the warp4 ,the section of the warp between the two pairs of nip rolls is brought down in loop form1 shown at ,h1 and the nip rolls are then closed while the warp is in this position4 ,the two sets of nip rolls are speeded alike and the rubber is always kept slack between the gripping points1 so that all threads passing through the last set of nip rolls1 ,d1 are perfectly gauged in length and tension when passing through the reed ,c and on to the beam ,b4 ,the threads of rubber are under considerable tension1 inasmuch as the beam ,b is driven faster than the nip rolls ,d and ,e4 ,,friction ,,let-,,off ,where there is limited loom space1 and where a small number of threads are employed1 as in the narrower garter fabrics1 it is not as practical to have the warps made mechanically1 and for this reason they are not likely to be put on the beams with as much uniformity of tension4 ,in such cases it becomes necessary to have some automatic device that will correct any irregularities and maintain a uniform delivery throughout4 ,the device for doing this is shown at ,fig4 #d4 ,the warp carrier ,a is fastened to the back rail1 which carries the warp1 over which is passed the friction cloth ,g which is hung from a rod ,d4 ,the friction cloth is fastened at the bottom to the graduated warp lever ,e1 which is bolted to the bottom rail ,h1 as shown4 ,the rubber threads constituting the warp pass in a direct line to the harness ,c1 and then to the breast beam ,b4 ,the lever ,e1 and the weights ,f1 allow for proper adjustment of the friction cloth so as to keep the lever level as the warp beam empties4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #c4--,rubber ,warping ,machine ,in making the rubber warps for narrow fabrics such as garters and suspenders1 where the last described method of warp delivery takes place1 it is customary to work from an entire sheet of rubber1 splitting it up into the required sections or strips of the various sizes called for in the warps4 ,this splitting and warping process must be done in a long room where the warp can be stretched out to its full length1 if possible1 after it is unchained4 ,these warps are usually about #fj yards long4 ,the 8head0 of the sheet1 or the part where the cutting knife has not gone through1 is spread out flat on a series of hooks at the beaming machine and the tail end is fixed securely on a strong hook at the other end of the room4 ,the requisite number of threads for the several warps which are to be beamed are counted off and each different section is fastened to a beam4 ,the end knot is laid snugly in the counter-sink made in the beam barrel for this purpose4 ,a wide reed is used1 covering the number of beams operated in the machine1 which is usually about four1 and the threads are reeded over spaces opposite the different beams4 ,this reed can be moved sidewise across the face of the beams and each warp properly centered so as to keep the warp level4 ,the operator then starts the beaming machine1 which may be operated either by hand or power1 and the warps are wound up4 ,at the same time a helper walks towards the beamer carrying the tail end of the warps and keeping the tension as nearly uniform as possible4 ,when the warps are all wound on the several beams1 a lease is taken in each of them in the ordinary manner1 and each separate section is securely fastened4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #d4--;,automatic ,friction ,let-,off for ,rubber ,warps ,should floor space be limited1 a horizontal reel is used1 which is about six feet long and about five feet in diameter4 ,on this the sheet of rubber is wound after being split in proper sections at the head end and divided by a coarse reed1 so as to be able to distribute the different sections all across the reel4 ,each section can then be taken off the reel as required for the beams4 ,the tension of the threads is governed by a weighted leather strap passed over the face of the reel4 ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,head ,motion ,looms and ,dobbies for ,making ,fancy ,effects--,tying ,up ,harness--,construction of ,loom ,webs1 ,lisle ,webs1 ,french ,web or ,railroad ,weave and ,cable ,webs--,making ,good ,selvages and ,preventing ,long-,sided ,effect ,so far we have mentioned only plain looms1 or those limited to the capacity of eight or twelve pick cams4 ,before we consider any of the varied constructions relating to elastic webs it will be well to speak of fancy looms4 ,there are different types1 adapted to a wide range of fancy effects1 but the fancy loom most generally used is what is known as the chain head1 an example of which is shown at ,fig4 #a4 ,such looms are usually of #ah and #bd harness capacity1 and are operated by a figure chain of the length required to produce the desired figure4 ,chains are made up of a series of bars1 one bar operating with each pick of the loom and having on it space for a roller or sinker for each harness to be operated4 ,wherever a roller is placed on the bar1 the corresponding harness will be raised1 and wherever a sinker is used1 the corresponding harness will be dropped4 ,a series of rollers following each other will hold the harness up1 and likewise a series of sinkers following each other will keep the harness down1 thus maintaining at all times an open shed4 ,,the ,,shedding ,,operation ,the shedding operation is very simple4 ,in the fancy head there are two cylinders1 each of which has gear teeth running the entire length4 ,these cylinders operate continuously in opposite directions4 ,the teeth of the cylinders do not go around the entire circumference as will be noticed on the upper cylinder shown in ,fig4 #a1 but there is a blank space provided so as to allow for the engaging of the gear wheels brought into position at the right time as the cylinders revolve4 ,between the two cylinders are vibrator gears1 one for each harness1 and to these gears are attached arms which are connected with the different harnesses4 ,these vibrator gears can be thrown into position by the chain rollers or sinkers1 so as to come in contact with the teeth of either the upper or lower cylinder1 and are so timed that they take their position at the moment when the blank part of the cylinder presents itself4 ,a vibrator gear engaging the upper cylinder is turned so as to lift the harness connected with it1 while a vibrator gear engaging the lower cylinder drops that particular harness4 ,the harnesses stay in their relative positions until the chain calls for another change4 ,both cylinders and engaging gears are made of hard chilled steel1 so that wear and tear by hammering at the time of engagement are reduced to a minimum4 ,to further soften the engagement1 the speed of the cylinder is controlled by elliptical driving gears1 which reduce the speed of travel just at the moment when the engagement takes place4 ,the timing of the various movements of the head is so well controlled that there is little risk of any part failing to maintain proper relationship with the other parts4 ,but in the event of any accident or breakage occurring which interferes with the free motion of the head1 such strain is taken care of by a soft pointed set screw on the head driving shaft1 which shears off and so prevents further serious damage4 ,the capacity of the head is such that by careful arrangement of figures and repeats it is quite possible to make several simple designs to run side by side in the same harnesses and this is often done4 ,of this we may write more later4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #a4--;,fancy ,loom for ,weaving ,narrow ,fabrics ,illustration3 ,fig4 #b4--;,double ,index ,dobby ,illustration3 ,fig4 #c4--,overshot ,dobby ,,the ,,overhead ,,dobby ,a popular machine for light fancy warp figures is the overhead dobby shown at ,fig4 #b1 which may be used as auxiliary either to the plain cam loom or the fancy head loom4 ,it is placed on a well braced1 rigid frame and built as high as convenient so as to reduce the angle of the harness strings4 ,it is driven directly from a two to one shaft1 which may be either underneath the loom or at the end1 and is connected with a threaded adjustable rod1 which is attached to a slotted lever and can be adjusted to govern the depth of the dobby shed4 ,it is customary to put two of these dobby machines over each loom1 but having only one main drive the two machines are coupled together and work in unison4 ,such an arrangement has the double advantage of a less acute angle at the harness tie-up1 and also affords facilities for a distinctly different pattern on either half of the loom4 ,it minimizes the risk of the harness threads cutting into the compart boards1 and prolongs relatively the life of the dobby harness4 ,furthermore it allows for a straight tie-up on either machine so that there is no limitation to the length or character of the design1 as is often the case where two patterns are run together on the same machine1 or where point tie-ups are used1 as would very likely be necessary if only one machine was installed to cover different designs on both halves of the loom4 ,as we have previously stated it is not advisable to limit capacity for the saving of a few dollars in the initial cost4 ,,overshot ,,dobby ,another type of loom employed in the making of fancy goods is what is known as the overshot loom4 ,it is used for the introduction of a silk weft figure effect1 and is probably the most pronounced form of elaboration introduced4 ,it differs from the old rise and fall method in the economy of operation4 ,the overshot continues to weave the body of the goods right along while the auxiliary shuttle is putting the silk figure in at the same time4 ,not only is it economical in the respect of greater yardage1 but the method employed in binding the figure limits the use of silk to the actual figure displayed1 and does not carry the silk1 which is the most expensive material in the fabric1 to the extreme selvage at every pick1 as is the case where the rise and fall method is employed4 ,in the overshot system a specially designed dobby1 shown at ,fig4 #c1 is used for operating the lightly weighted threads of the binder warps4 ,two pairs of knives are employed1 one of each pair operating far enough to raise the threads used in the binder warp to the level of the top main shed1 while the other one of each pair carries the threads which are used for figure purposes to a higher level1 so that the overshot shuttle may pass under them4 ,this occurs every alternate pick of the loom1 the body shuttle making two picks while the upper or overshot shuttle makes only one4 ,in levelling the harness1 setting or timing of the loom1 and making the shed for overshot work1 the plans followed are identically the same as in ordinary single shuttle work1 as the upper shuttle and upper shed are distinctly auxiliary and subordinate to the main shed4 ,the binder warp1 being necessarily but lightly weighted in its relationship to the upper and lower cloths it is binding together1 allows for the figure threads to be strained out of their normal position1 so that the upper shuttle may pass under them4 ,in order to conform to this strained position of the binder figure threads1 the upper shuttle must be acutely pitched downward at the nose so as to get a good clearance1 and thus avoid any binding in its passages through the shed4 ,this peculiar downward pitch of the shuttle is very important and cannot be over emphasized4 ,it is shown in ,fig4 #d4 ,the overshot dobby is so constructed that a different set of draw knives operate on each alternate pick of the loom1 one on the binder lift and the other on the rubber lift4 ,this not only allows for a silk figure made with the shuttle but affords facilities for the introduction of a warp figure also1 a combination which can often be made very effective1 as shown in ,fig4 #e4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #d4--,showing ,auxiliary ,shed and ,pitched ,shuttle as ,used in ,overshot ,work ,,importance ,,of ,,dobby ,,harness ,too much importance cannot be attached to the rigging of the dobby harness4 ,a #cj_/i ply linen cord is desirable and a lingo of about #af to the pound4 ,after deciding on the character of the tie-up required1 and when the harness has been threaded in the compart boards1 the lingoes should be looped on the strings1 and then left to stand and settle for a couple of days before leveling4 ,it is better still to run the dobby machine for a few hours1 lifting all the harness and then dropping them1 so as to settle the strings and take out any kinks or loose places which are bound to exist in a highly cabled linen cord of this character4 ,the labor required in the tying up and leveling of a string harness suggests the advisability of great care in determining the tie-up to be used1 so that changes of pattern can be made easily without involving changes in the tie-up4 ,in order to prolong the life of the harness1 in the adjustment of which so much time and care must necessarily be spent1 it is advisable to apply a dressing of boiled linseed oil1 which should be thoroughly worked into the strings by running the harness for several hours1 using one and one change cards4 ,this should be followed by a dusting of talc or soapstone1 which will add much to the smoothness of the finish4 ,to reduce the friction of the strings which operate in the several outside compart boards1 where the strain and wear are particularly acute1 and also to prevent the strings from cutting into the boards themselves1 it is good practice to fix strips of ground glass between the different rows of strings1 just above the compart boards4 ,these strips of glass may be threaded through drilled holes in the compart board frame4 ,,construction ,,of ,,simple ,,webs ,before enlarging further on details of fancy looms1 it will be well to retrace our steps and consider the construction of some of the simpler forms of web1 such as are made on what we have described as plain looms4 ,the webs best known1 perhaps1 are those such as are used for men's ordinary garter wear1 and for cutting up to retail in the regular dry goods and notions trade4 ,they vary from one-quarter to #b inches in width4 ,there are several distinct classes of these goods1 the best known of which are the loom webs1 the lisles and the cables1 all of which are of single cloth construction1 in which the filling is the main feature4 ,there are generally two cotton warps used in such goods1 one of which is commonly called the binder and weaves two up and two down1 while the other is called the gut or filler1 and works with the rubber warp1 one up and one down4 ,the selvages of these webs are made with the filling1 which passes around a wire at each pick1 the wire remaining stationary while the web is taken away from it in the process of weaving4 ,an illustration of a loom web of this character is shown at ,fig4 #f4 ,the draft and cam arrangement are shown at ,fig4 #f;,a4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #e4--;,combination ,warp and ,shuttle ,figure ,produced on ,overshot ,dobby4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #f ,fig4 #g ,fig4 #h ,fig4 #i ,fig4 #aj ,it is customary in some factories to use only one harness to carry both rubber and gut1 inasmuch as the weaving of the two are the same and they both go in the same cavity or pocket of the web4 ,where such a method is employed there is always a tendency for the gut threads to get out of their proper places1 and to fall together in pairs at irregular points1 which will produce an objectionable 8rowey0 appearance in the goods4 ,this will be noticed more particularly in white and light colored webs4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #f;,a4--,harness ,draft and ,weave for ,three-,quarter ,inch ,loom ,web ,illustration3 ,fig4 #g;,a4--,harness ,draft and ,weave for ,one-,half ,inch ,lisle ,web ,illustration3 ,fig4 #h;,a4--,harness ,draft and ,weave for ,three-,quarter ,inch ,french ,web ,illustration3 ,fig4 #i;,a4--,harness ,draft and ,weave for ,three-,quarter ,inch ,cable ,web ,in the harness draft shown1 it will be seen that one harness is employed for the rubber and one for the gut4 ,it is thus possible to shed the gut harness so as to open more than the rubber1 having it travel both higher and lower than the rubber harness at each alternate pick of the loom4 ,by this movement the gut threads will be kept in the desired position1 and at the same relative side of the rubber threads in each of the several pockets designed to carry them both4 ,if1 from any unusual cause1 any of the gut threads get away from their proper places it is easy by this arrangement of separation to lift the gut harness at any time1 insert a thread of cotton between the gut and rubber threads1 and put them in their proper places when commencing to weave again4 ,the weave employed in the making of webs of this kind1 although of a very simple character1 involves a condition which does not favor a straight well woven fabric unless great care is taken to offset troublesome tendencies4 ,the nature of the weave is such that at one pick the binder harness changes1 while on the next pick it remains open and does not change1 the rubber and gut harness changing only4 ,the result of this movement is such that one shed clears for the reception of the filling much better than the other1 so that at one side of the web the filling will hug the edge wire1 shown at ,w in ,fig4 #f;,a1 while at the other side of the web the failure to get a good clearance prevents the filling getting so snugly around the wire4 ,therefore1 as the web draws away from the edge wire in the process of weaving1 the tendency is for one selvage rubber cavity to be small1 while the other is large1 which means that at the open side there is a freedom for contraction of the edge rubber which is not present at the other side1 and a long-sided uneven web is the result4 ,,making ,a ,,good ,,selvage ,to counteract this it is essential that great care should be taken to get a good clearance of the shed4 ,the shed should be timed as early as possible1 so as to give every particle of fibre on the warp a good chance to separate and clear itself4 ,when space permits1 the front reed should be set slightly over on one side of the reed space1 so as to create a little longer pull on the filling as it draws from the shuttle on the open side1 and correspondingly eases up the draw of the filling on the other side4 ,the warp stock used1 however1 may be of such a character that the loose fibre on it makes even these precautions ineffective altogether to counteract the trouble1 and it may then become advisable to put in a fine edge wire on the open side of the web to offset the creeping tendency of the selvage rubber thread when contraction takes place after the web comes through the press rolls4 ,the feature which is aimed at1 and which is most desirable in the appearance of such goods1 is a clean cut prominent rib at the rubber line1 and the avoidance of a flat paper-like look and feel of the web generally4 ,the prominence of the rib varies1 of course1 according to the size of the rubber thread used1 and the binder warp employed in dividing the same1 but even the very best of conditions may be spoiled if proper care is not taken to get all the prominence of rib possible4 ,use as fine a binder warp as is practicable1 compensating for any loss of weight or excess of contraction by using a heavier gut1 which again of itself helps to fill in the rubber cavity and thereby lends additional prominence to the rib4 ,all the weight possible should be carried on the binder warp up to a point of safety1 and care should be taken to get a very easy1 uniform delivery of the warp from the beam so as to avoid any erratic jerky movement of the warp lever4 ,the warp beams which are used on this delicate type of work should be well balanced and true to center1 and the flanges free from any irregularity which would in any way interfere with the easy and uniform operation of the warp lever4 ,the gut1 which weaves in with the rubber thread1 is used for the two-fold purpose of giving additional body to the fabric and of regulating in a measure the length of stretch in the goods4 ,the more gut there is used1 the less becomes the power of contraction of the rubber warp1 and the shorter the stretch produced4 ,aside from the fineness and body of the goods1 the element of stretch largely governs the market value of the fabric1 so that good judgment and great care must be exercised in the assembling of the different sizes of yarns used4 ,weft1 binder and gut all play their part in the governing of the stretch1 as also does the number of picks put in the goods4 ,any excess of weight on the binder warp also materially reduces the stretch4 ,in fact1 any one of these features1 wrongly adjusted1 may result in the difference between the profit and loss4 ,in making the selvage of these goods a hard steel wire is used1 around which the filling passes at each pick4 ,this wire1 shown at ,w in ,fig4 #f;,a1 is highly tempered piano wire1 of the very best quality obtainable4 ,sharpened to a needle point at one end1 with a loop turned at the other end1 it is fastened at the back of the loom by a cord which has an adjustable slip knot1 so as to be able easily and quickly to regulate the length of wire running in the web4 ,it is then passed through a harness heddle eye on the rubber or gut shaft1 and through a reed space next outside the selvage rubber thread4 ,the constant wear of this wire on the reed dent makes it necessary to have this dent of hardened steel so as to withstand the constant wear of the wire1 which is always being crowded against the dent by the nipping action of the filling as it draws against the wire in the process of weaving1 and the repeated beat at the same place in the dent at the weaving line4 ,in any event1 after a short time the dents in the reed will be cut so that it becomes necessary to frequently replace them with new ones1 and for this reason it should be so arranged that they can be easily and quickly removed from and replaced in the reeds4 ,,the ,,lisle ,,web ,the lisle web1 being perfectly plain1 is similar in general character to the loom web1 except that it is made with high grade combed and gassed yarns for the filling in place of cheaper stock used on the loom webs1 and is woven with four threads for the binder warp between each strand of rubber1 instead of two as in the loom web4 ,the harness draft of the one-half inch lisle web shown at ,fig4 #g1 together with the weave1 is shown at ,fig4 #g;,a4 ,the construction is as follows3 ,binder1 #cf ends #hj_/b2 gut1 #h ends #dj_/b2 rubber1 #aj ends #cbs2 reed1 #ba dent2 picks1 #gh per inch2 stretch1 #ge per cent4 ,it will be seen that all the binder threads operate two up and two down1 but change at each pick in rotation1 making the repeat every four picks of the loom4 ,in a weave of this character the changes of the harness are distributed uniformly at each pick1 thus making it much easier to get uniform conditions on each selvage4 ,it differs from the loom web in this respect1 where the alternating light and heavy pick has to be contended with4 ,like the loom webs1 prominence of the rib over the rubber thread is the main feature aimed at in the general appearance of the fabrics1 and therefore everything possible should be done which will emphasize this4 ,the binder warp must be of fine yarns1 and the warp must be weighted so as to cut the warp line down sharp and clear up to a point of safety1 being careful at the same time not to go to excess so as to narrow in the goods or cause undue chafing of the rubber warp4 ,the yarn most generally used for filling is #bf-b comber and gassed high grade stock1 of about #ae turns per inch4 ,it should be a well-rounded lofty yarn so as to obtain all the covering property possible4 ,it should be spun with the utmost uniformity1 as the slightest irregularity in the yarn will be noticeable in the goods4 ,the dyeing and bleaching of the yarn used for filling is also of the greatest importance4 ,it is not an unusual occurrence to find otherwise perfect goods made unmarketable as first class by the use of a filling yarn which has not been properly processed4 ,this faulty condition of the yarn may be caused in a variety of ways2 such as an irregular boil1 poor circulation of liquor in the kier1 irregular drying1 etc4 ,even when the color appears to be perfect1 poor processing will often prevent the smooth running of the yarn from the shuttle1 causing it to drag and thus create irregular and crooked selvages which result in the repeated breaking of the selvage rubber threads and ruin the goods4 ,the many difficulties of this character which were encountered when skein yarn was more generally used for filling led to the introduction and almost general use of warp yarns for filling purposes1 inasmuch as the method of processing the warp yarns gives results which are not nearly so variable4 ,furthermore the long unbroken runs of thread obtainable by quilling avoid the many knots which are present when using skein yarn4 ,knots are unsightly and objectionable when appearing on the face of the goods4 ,chafed and broken edge rubber threads1 however1 are not always the result of the conditions named1 by any means1 but may be caused by a variety of other things4 ,not infrequently the edge wire may be weaving too long in the web so as not to draw out freely4 ,sometimes it may be a bent wire that causes the trouble1 or it may be the rubber rolling around the wire4 ,many times defects are caused by the edge wire having cut into the dent1 so that it has a file-like effect as the rubber thread passes by in weaving4 ,all these things require looking into1 and when trouble comes the cause should be found and not guessed at4 ,,french ,,web ,,or ,,railroad ,,weave ,another plain web which has attained considerable popularity1 and which is a kind of intermediate grade between the loom web and the lisle1 is what is known as the ,french web or railroad weave1 shown at ,fig4 #h4 ,in almost all respects the general treatment of this web is the same as already described1 and it differs only in the draft1 which is shown at ,fig4 #h;,a4 ,it allows for the use of a somewhat finer yarn than is generally employed in the loom web1 and the draft changes at every two cords1 which gives it a peculiar 8rowey0 appearance from which it derives the name of railroad weave4 ,there is one feature associated with all these plain webs which it might be well to speak of4 ,the high tension at which it is necessary to work the rubber warp1 together with the light weight required on the cotton warp and the crowding together of the picking1 creates a tendency for the goods to rebound at the front reed1 accompanied by a backward and forward sliding movement when passing over the rod at the breast beam4 ,this movement is liable to polish the goods1 which is an objectionable feature4 ,to counteract this it is advisable to let the web pass over a small1 felt-covered wood tube1 which revolves and responds to the movement of the bounding web4 ,in this way there is no friction to glaze or polish the web and interfere with the bloom of the yarn4 ,the same polish will occur as the goods pass through the press rolls1 unless they are felt covered4 ,,cable ,,web ,the most popular web now made up into men's garters is what is known as the cable web1 shown at ,fig4 #i4 ,with the pronounced prominence of the two-dent rib1 which gives it a character peculiarly different from the plain web1 it is well adapted to this class of goods4 ,simple in appearance1 it nevertheless requires special care to manufacture1 particularly when we remember that it is not unusual to be required to make a finished stretch of not less than #ajj per cent4 ,the harness draft and weave are shown at ,fig4 #i;,a4 ,the construction is as follows3 ,binder1 #cd ends #hj_/b2 ,gut1 #bd ends #bj_/b2 ,rubber1 #ah ends #bhs2 ,reed1 #bj dent2 ,picks1 #hj per inch2 ,stretch1 #ajj per cent4 ,the filling1 floating across the wide spaces under which lie the rubber threads in pairs1 is very easily thrown out of place1 the result of which may be an unsightly seersucker appearance1 as shown in ,fig4 #aj1 which the process of finishing aggravates rather than corrects4 ,trouble may manifest itself by the filling over the ribs opening up and allowing the gut threads to prick through4 ,to prevent this objectionable feature it is necessary to use a good quality of moderately soft yarn for the gut1 not necessarily of high grade stock1 but a yarn which is uniformly spun and not at all hard or wiry4 ,as these goods are being woven and on full stretch1 the gut threads1 of course1 are perfectly straight and accurate in line1 but when contraction takes place1 to probably one-half the former length1 these heavy threads1 which form probably about #be per cent4 of the weight of the entire web1 should bend or fold uniformly and dispose of themselves in such a manner as not to appear in any way on the face of the web1 snugly housed away in the several pockets or cavities4 ,if the yarn composing these gut threads is spotty or irregularly spun1 this uniformity of fold inside the pockets will be broken up and the appearance of the face of the goods is likely to be marred by unsightly specks of cotton pricking through1 which can be both seen and felt4 ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,elaboration of ,honeycomb ,effects by ,parti-,dyed and ,printed ,fillings--,bandage and ,surgical ,webs ,made with ,plain and ,covered ,rubber--,frill ,web ,woven on ,cam ,looms--,double ,cloths--,importance of ,securing ,balance ,between ,back and ,face of ,goods ,among the group of single cloth webs confined to the capacity of plain looms1 is what is commonly known as the honeycomb1 shown at ,fig4 #a and ,fig4 #a;,a4 ,this is generally made with silk1 wood silk1 or schappe filling4 ,the smooth filling floating over two cords gives the web a smooth feel1 there being no rib effect noticeable whatever1 making it well adapted for a fine trade4 ,the warp lines are almost entirely hidden by the filling1 so that it is not practicable to introduce any sharp stripe fancy effects1 which can be done both in the plain web and the cable4 ,the honeycomb is thus confined to plain solid colors or such elaboration as can be obtained from the filling4 ,fancy effects are often secured by dyeing skein yarn in two or more colors4 ,such yarns when woven in the goods produce alternating effects at regular distances in different colors1 such distances being governed by the length of the dips and the width of the goods4 ,the effects which can be produced are quite varied4 ,the simplest way of accomplishing this is to use the regular #ed-;inch skein1 having white or some light shade as a base1 and then dyeing a given portion of the skein another color4 ,this process is carried out by hanging the skeins on sticks placed in a rack at the required distance above the color liquor1 and then lowering them into the vat and dyeing the immersed part in the usual manner4 ,where cotton is used for the filling and more elaborate effects are desired1 long reeled skeins are used1 sometimes #ajh or #baf inches1 which have been reeled on specially designed collapsible reels4 ,such skeins are not practicable to handle in the dye house in the manner already described4 ,sections of such skeins are wrapped in heavy waterproof paper and tied tightly1 so that the dye liquor cannot penetrate that portion1 and then the whole is put in the liquor1 when the exposed part only will be dyed4 ,then again sometimes wood clamps are used1 like that shown at ,fig4 #b1 having a recess into which part of the skein is laid after being carefully folded4 ,the two halves are clamped together tightly in such a manner that the dye cannot penetrate the clamped part of the skein while the part left outside the clamp is dyed when the whole is immersed in the dye liquor4 ,,printed ,,filling ,another form of elaboration used in such goods is printing the skein yarn used for the filling4 ,this is done by using a machine having a pair of fluted brass printing rolls1 one of which is made to open on a hinge like a gate so that a skein of yarn can be put around it4 ,this roller is then closed to its original position1 so that with the two rollers parallel and close together1 and the skein of yarn hugged tightly between them1 the turning of the rollers imprints color on the skein4 ,the skein is then taken out and dryed before spooling4 ,different sets of rolls are used so as to get fine and coarse effects and various colors are used in printing4 ,where plaid or printed fillings are used for the elaboration of webs of the honeycomb type1 it is not unusual to introduce a couple of plain cords in the center of the web1 or possibly on either side1 so as to break up the flatness of the weave4 ,this opens up the opportunity of using lines of a different color in the warp which properly arranged will produce a plaid-like effect4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #a4--;,honeycomb ,illustration3 ,fig4 #a;,a4--,harness ,draft and ,weave for ,honeycomb4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #b4--;,clamp ,used for ,dying ,parti-,colored ,skeins ,,bandage ,,webs ,there is quite a large demand for surgical and bandage webs1 ,fig4 #c1 in widths ranging from #b to #d inches4 ,these webs are used for binding the limbs and other purposes and are in the pure white or natural yarns4 ,they require to be made with a long soft easy stretch4 ,an open reed of about #ab dents per inch is employed4 ,four threads are generally used for the binder1 weaving two up and two down4 ,the goods are similar in construction to a regular lisle web1 except that the gut is omitted in order to get the easiest possible movement4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #c4--;,bandage ,webs2 ,fabric at ,left ,made with ,plain ,rubber2 ,web at ,right ,made ,with ,covered ,rubber ,the yarn is generally the same quality and size for both warp and filling1 and is usually a soft spun #b-bjs4 ,the side of rubber is generally about #ch or #dj1 with #dj picks per inch and a finished stretch of #ajj per cent4 ,the use such webs are put to1 necessitating as we have already said a soft and sluggish stretch1 prevents the use of a heavy rubber thread1 the result being that when the bandage is kept in close contact with the warm body1 the life of the fine rubber is of short duration4 ,this condition1 and the open weave necessary to get the easy stretch1 have made it expedient to use in many of these goods strands of rubber which have been covered with cotton threads before weaving4 ,this process not only prolongs the life of the web1 but allows for even more open weaving1 the use of different weaves than would be possible where the uncovered rubber thread is used1 and the production of a fabric more suitable for the purpose4 ,in order to get the soft easy stretch which is the most desirable characteristic of a bandage web1 and yet have the necessary width1 it is not unusual to introduce a seersucker effect1 as shown in ,fig4 #d1 in sections of the web so as to reduce the strong elasticity of the whole4 ,in an ordinary cotton cloth the seersucker or crinkle effect is usually produced by the use of a separate warp of heavier yarn than the rest of the fabric1 which warp must be weighted differently and often a different weave is employed to emphasize the contrast in the puckered seersucker effect4 ,in the elastic web all this special preparation is unnecessary4 ,wherever the seersucker stripe is desired1 strands of rubber are left out which of course takes away from these portions that element which contracts the other part of the web1 and a seersucker effect is the result4 ,such stripes are often used for the ornamentation of some webs by having narrow sections introduced for border effects1 or running down the center1 and in fact they may be employed in a variety of ways1 inasmuch as they lend themselves effectively to different forms of coloring1 in relief to the main fabric4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #d4--,seersucker ,effect ,illustration3 ,fig4 #e4--;,frill ,web ,made on ,cam ,loom ,illustration3 ,fig4 #f4--,plain ,web ,illustration3 ,fig4 #f;,a4--,harness ,draft and ,weave for ,fig4 #f1 ,simplest ,form of ,double ,cloth ,in passing it might be well to note that where it is necessary to use covered rubber threads special arrangements are required for making the warps1 as the covered thread cannot be handled like the ordinary thread4 ,the spools are placed in a rack which is required for each warp4 ,arrangements have been made so that to each spool is attached a special head1 which can be weighted either by a lever brake or weight attached to a cord running in a groove on the auxiliary head4 ,by this arrangement uniform delivery of the threads can be made to the warp beam so as to avoid any puckering caused by irregular warping4 ,,frill ,,web ,,on ,,cam ,,loom ,in single cloth webs as already stated1 the scope for ornamental effects is necessarily limited4 ,the bulk of such webs1 particularly those made with a wire edge1 are for the most part plain4 ,there is a type of garter web1 however1 characterized as 8frill0 and shown at ,fig4 #e1 which may be made within the narrow limitation of cam looms1 although the frill feature is more generally used in connection with more elaborate fancy effects4 ,the frill part is practically a section of non-elastic of any desired width woven on to a section of elastic1 which likewise may be of variable width4 ,the strands of rubber used in the central section1 being woven under tension1 contract this portion of the fabric after it leaves the press rolls4 ,the side sections having no rubber in them do not contract1 but frill up uniformly on either side of the web in regular fluted folds4 ,no wire is required for the selvage when a frill is made1 and the tension of the filling is adjusted so as to hug the outside threads of the frill warp and make a neat selvage without narrowing it in beyond the width of the reed space occupied by the warp4 ,the frill part must be on a separate warp1 apart from the binder threads which are used in the central section4 ,the elastic section is made in the regular manner already described for webs of four harness capacity4 ,the frill is likewise constructed from the same harnesses1 but the draft is so arranged that two of the harnesses are used for one frill and two for the other4 ,this arrangement is made in order that the filling may only be bound in alternating picks on the frill part1 whereas in the body it is bound at every pick4 ,this method makes the frill soft and pliable1 so that it readily responds to the contraction which takes place in the body part1 and thus makes for regularity in the formation of the folds4 ,should an exceptionally fine frill be desired1 the same two harnesses are used for the frill at either side1 and the filling is bound or woven in at each passage of the shuttle4 ,wherever this method is employed1 however1 it becomes necessary to use a much finer yarn for the frill warp1 or a fewer number of threads spread over the front reed in the frill4 ,if such precautions are not taken the frill will be harsh and stiff and will not fold uniformly as the center contracts4 ,it may even retard the desired contraction of the body4 ,it is not advisable in making frill webs to use a regular front reed having the same spacing of dents all across4 ,there is a liability of getting a coarse looking frill1 showing up the marks of the reed dents4 ,the plan more desirable is to use a reed with the dents required for the frill part of the fabric spaced very much finer than those used for the body1 generally in the ratio of two to one1 so that the frill threads may be evenly distributed in ribbon-like formation and not show the coarse lines of the dents4 ,occasional calls are made for webs having a frill on one selvage only4 ,in this case it becomes necessary to use an edge wire on the side having no frill1 and exceptional care must be taken in this class of goods to produce the proper balance4 ,a soft frill is required and a limited contraction of the body part4 ,,double ,,cloth ,,webs ,our remarks so far have been confined exclusively to single cloth webs of a simple character1 where1 apart from the rubber and gut there is only one warp used1 and where both back and face of the web are alike4 ,we will now turn our attention to what are known as double cloth webs1 where two distinct cloths are woven1 one for the face and one for the back1 each working independently of the other1 but tied together by another warp known as the binder1 or else the two cloths interlock each other in such a manner as to bind them together without the assistance of another warp4 ,by this method of weaving much thicker and heavier webs may be produced with a limitation of elasticity which cannot be obtained by the single cloth method4 ,the weaves and materials employed in the face and back of the goods may be identical1 or weaves of a different character and stock of different qualities1 sizes and colors may be used4 ,fancy effects may be used to embellish the face1 while the back may be perfectly plain and free from any coloring whatever4 ,there are certain features associated with the construction of double cloth webs which make them entirely different to deal with4 ,the different weaves and the different stock employed necessitate splitting up the warps into sections to accommodate such conditions4 ,a separate warp is required for both back and face and also one for the binder1 which delivers a much greater length of warp than either1 necessitated by the character of the weave used in binding the upper and lower cloths together4 ,a separate warp is also required for the gut1 which goes in the web perfectly straight and is shorter in length than any of the other sections4 ,such goods also require a special warp for the selvage1 so that in the simplest form of such webs a bank of five warps is necessary4 ,on fancy goods the introduction of fancy warps may add to this number4 ,,balance ,,between ,,back ,,and ,,face ,the element of a right balance between the back and face has to be considered1 and if care be not taken in the proper adjustment of the stock the result may be that one side of the goods will assert control over the other in such a manner as to prevent it lying flat and even4 ,when such a web is cut it will curl up so as to be almost uncontrollable4 ,such a condition may arise from a variety of causes4 ,if the weaves of the face and back cloths are identical then it will be necessary to have the face and back warps of the same size yarn or its equivalent4 ,for instance1 should the face be a four-thread plain and #dj_/b is used1 and the back only two threads1 then the yarn used for the back warp must be #bj_/b so as to equal the four threads of #dj_/b in the face4 ,should1 however1 the face be a more open weave than the back1 then an equal weight of yarn in both cloths will not be right1 and it will be necessary to use yarn of a heavier weight for the face to compensate for the freedom of the more open weave and effect a proper balance with the more tightly woven back4 ,there can be no fixed rule to apply to this1 and only experience will indicate the proper relationship between the two4 ,in ,figs4 #f and #f;,a are shown the simplest form of double cloth1 known as a plain web4 ,by carefully following the weave it will be seen that while the face weaves #c up and #a down1 and the back #a up and #c down1 the filling will appear both on the face and back of the goods as #a up and #a down4 ,if the binder was not there it would be a tubular web1 having the same appearance all around4 ,the binder1 however1 intersects the upper and lower cloths at each pick and binds the two together in one complete whole1 while the rubber lies between the two1 each strand being separated by the interlocking binder threads4 ,it becomes necessary in order properly to connect the upper and lower cloths at their extreme edges to use a selvage warp1 which as will be seen in ,fig4 #f;,a is drawn in on all four face and back harnesses1 and the threads of which are arranged so as to complete the weave all around4 ,to do this it will be seen that there is an odd thread at one side1 otherwise the weave at this point would show two threads operating together next to each other1 and would break up the continuity of the weave4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #g4--,method of ,banking a ,set of ,warps for ,double ,cloth ,webs ,the selvage plays an important part in the structure and weaving of the web4 ,it forms the pocket for covering in which lies the outside rubber threads1 and it must be so arranged that these threads can function properly so as to make a piece of goods that will lie flat4 ,in the first place the yarn must be of such a size that with the proper number of threads employed the selvage will contract uniformly with the body of the goods1 so that the web will not 8frill0 on account of a too heavy selvage1 or 8belly0 because it is too light4 ,,care ,,for ,,selvage ,the threads must be properly divided in the front reed so as to make a good clearance for the filling1 which otherwise would 8nib0 up and make an unsightly selvage4 ,then again1 a careful adjustment of the weight carried on the selvage warp must be made so as to accommodate it to the requisite tension of the filling as it is delivered from the shuttle1 otherwise the edge rubber threads will be liable to chafe and cut off when strained out of proper alignment with the front reed4 ,it will be observed in the draft that two rubber threads are used in each selvage1 which is necessary in order to control the additional yarn used in the construction of the selvage4 ,,chapter ,v4 ,three ,leaf ,twill or ,satin ,face ,woven in ,conjunction with ,plain ,back--,position of ,back ,rolls in ,relation to ,harness ,shed--,use of ,four ,leaf ,twill--,filling ,fancy ,effects and ,stitch ,figures--,interchanging ,figure and ,face ,turning our attention from plain webs to combination weaves1 we will take up what is popularly known as the three-leaf twill1 or satin face1 woven in conjunction with a plain back4 ,this is a type of web not only used for suspenders1 but employed extensively for corset garter attachments also4 ,a web of this character when properly constructed has a smooth velvet-like face4 ,the threads are uniformly distributed across the width without showing any of the 8rowy0 effect from the binder warps1 which are completely hidden by the heavy pile produced by the float of the face threads4 ,when the contraction of the web takes place1 these floating face threads mass together in a velvet-like pile1 not only producing a smooth handling web but materially increasing the thickness4 ,such webs are generally constructed with a six-thread face and a four-thread back1 and have what is termed a round edge1 similar to the selvage used on a plain web4 ,this arrangement shows up the twill face by contrast and gives the fabric a much finer appearance4 ,,harness ,,and ,,chain ,,draft ,fig4 #a shows the harness and chain draft of such a web1 together with the construction of a properly balanced web for standard goods of #a inches wide4 ,it will be noticed that the face1 consisting of #aej threads1 is split up into two warps of #ge threads each4 ,this arrangement is necessary in order properly to weigh them so as to get a good clearance in the shed4 ,the warp has to be divided likewise in the harnesses and put on six harness frames1 although the weave could be produced on three4 ,it would not be practicable to crowd #ej threads on one harness frame in the narrow space available1 as the harness eyes would shoulder and crowd too much when changing4 ,in drawing-in this web1 one face warp should be arranged so that the threads are drawn on the first1 third and fifth harnesses1 and the other face warp should be on the second1 fourth and sixth4 ,such an arrangement in the distribution of the warps makes it much easier on the mechanism1 and minimizes the risk of breakages4 ,it is also important to make proper divisions of the warps at the back rolls1 inasmuch as some of the warps have to be weighted heavily while others are only lightly weighted1 and also on account of the different take-up of the varied weaves4 ,the back rolls should be set in a graded position so as to prevent undue friction of one warp against another4 ,the binder warp should be worked under the front roll on account of the extremely light weight this must carry4 ,fig4 #b shows the proper position of the back rolls in relation to the harness shed4 ,in a web of this character where the warp stock is somewhat crowded in the front reed1 there is always a tendency for a fibrous yarn to prevent a perfect clearance in the shed1 with a liability of producing occasional floats through the shuttle skipping these threads4 ,such floats will pearl up when the web contracts and make an imperfect face4 ,this trouble may be prevented by setting the back rolls a trifle higher than the breast beam rod1 so that the stock in the harness which is down will be slightly tighter than that which is in the upper harness4 ,the chain draft is so arranged that the face harness will operate to produce a twill which will be reverse to the twist of the yarn employed1 and thus reduce the prominence of the twill weave all possible4 ,the filling yarn should be soft1 of about #ae turns per inch1 and of good uniform quality1 in order to produce a nice selvage and not cut the rubber4 ,the reed dent inside the selvage rubber should be carefully twisted at an angle to conform to the nipped in position to the rubber thread1 so that the outside edge of the dent will not cut the rubber when the reed beats against the goods at the weaving line4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #a4--,three ,leaf ,twill1 or ,satin ,face4 ,woven in ,conjunction ,with a ,plain ,back ,illustration3 ,fig4 #b4--,showing ,position of ,back ,rolls in ,relation to ,shed ,,use ,,of ,,coarser ,,yarn ,a fine looking twill may be produced with a somewhat coarser face yarn by using a five threaded face over a six-thread repeat4 ,this is shown in the harness draft at ,fig4 #c4 ,in non-elastic fabrics there are available a variety of twill and satin weaves for the production of soft lustrous surfaces1 but this is not so in elastic webs1 as the contraction of the goods after weaving would produce a ragged1 spongy surface4 ,a float of three picks on the face is about the limit it is practicable to go on an elastic web1 with few exceptions1 and even this only in connection with fine picking4 ,,use ,,of ,,four ,,leaf ,,twill ,a four leaf twill1 however1 can be used to great advantage when a heavy body is desired1 as for example what is known as 8farmer's web40 ,these are usually made about two inches wide1 and to further add to their weight they have what is termed a cushion back1 the weave of which is #g down and #a up4 ,the use of these soft weaves on both face and back1 while giving the web great thickness on account of the deep velvet-like pile produced1 deprives it of much of its firmness4 ,this condition is met by the introduction of an auxiliary back warp1 underneath the main back warp1 weaving #c down and #a up1 which knits the upper and lower cloth more firmly together1 thus increasing the firmness of handles of the goods4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #c4--;,five ,thread ,face ,over #f ,dent ,repeat ,another web among the plain loom products calling for passing mention is that specially made for the police and fireman's brace4 ,while this has a #g down and #a up cushion back similar to the farmer's web1 it differs in having a smooth plain face in place of a twill4 ,this arrangement of combining a plain face with a cushion back necessitates selection of the sizes of yarn used for the various warps so as to maintain a proper balance of the different weaves employed in the face and back4 ,otherwise the goods would curl up and it would be impracticable to cut them up for manufacture4 ,consideration must also be given to the effect of padding the size upon such goods in the finishing process1 of which we will say more later4 ,,filling ,,fancy ,,effects ,all the webs so far described have been such as could be produced on cam looms of various capacities4 ,we will now turn our attention to what are generally understood as fancy effects4 ,it might be well to treat these under two distinct headings4 ,those made with the shuttle1 or what are called filling patterns1 and those made from the warp1 or what are called stitch patterns4 ,the figures or fancy effects produced by floating the filling over sections of the warp show up the filling with increased luster in contrast to the warp4 ,they are confined to no particular character of design1 and may range from the simplest effect produced on the fancy harness loom or dobby to the more elaborate jacquard design4 ,the ground or body may be either plain or twill1 or any other acceptable weave suitable as a base for figuring1 while the filling may be of a contrasting color1 either of silk or cotton as desired4 ,the figure or design may be made from the same shuttle used for the ground or it may be made by an auxiliary shuttle1 either used as an overshot or rise and fall1 according to the character of web desired4 ,where the figure is made from the ground shuttle it is produced as a sunken effect4 ,it is made by burying sections of the face warp at intervals so that in place of the face warp the filling is seen at these points4 ,no additional figure warps are required for this class of goods1 and elaborate designs are obtainable1 although there is not the scope for cross coloring that there is in the warp figure method4 ,,stitch ,,fancy ,,patterns ,when the design is made from the warp1 the figure threads are made to float on the face of the goods so that upon contraction of the web after weaving1 these floats pearl up in prominence above the level of the face1 and make what is termed a stitch figure4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #d4--,point ,draw ,stitch ,figure ,illustration3 ,fig4 #d;,a4--,harness and ,chain ,draft for ,fig4 #d ,it is not our purpose here to particularize in design1 which is practically unlimited1 but only to refer to those features which govern the construction and illustrate as necessary4 ,in order to maintain a proper balance where figures are introduced on single cloth weaves1 it is necessary to distribute the figure warp uniformly over both the face and back of the goods so as to maintain a proper balance between the two4 ,in the double cloth webs the figure warp1 when not appearing on the face of the goods1 is allowed to run straight between the upper and lower cloths1 going in the same cavity or pocket as the rubber threads1 and it works at these times as a gut4 ,this1 of course1 in a measure interferes with the contraction of the goods and has to be taken into consideration in the construction4 ,here again we must note the effect of the contraction in piling up the floating-figure threads1 and the necessity of limiting the floats in making the design so as to avoid any ragged appearance4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #e4--;,interchanging ,figure and ,face ,illustration3 ,fig4 #e;,a4--,harness and ,chain ,draft for ,fig4 #e ,fig4 #d shows a design of this character1 with the harness and chain draft at ,fig4 #d;,a4 ,in this particular web there are six harnesses used for the main body and ten for the figure1 which is a point draw4 ,while the figure is evenly distributed on the web1 wherever it is not seen it is running between the upper and lower cloths1 as already described1 and acting as a gut4 ,in order to get a proper balance of the web it is necessary to put gut threads into the two outer cords where no figure appears1 which must be equivalent in size to the figure threads employed in each of the #ba center cords4 ,if this is not done the web will contract unduly at the edges and make it 8belly40 ,the method here used of burying the figure between the upper and lower cloths when not needed in carrying out the design1 affords opportunity for introducing additional warp threads of different colors1 so as to be able to bring up either one color or another as desired in a design4 ,as most of the fancy head looms have not more than #ah harnesses1 it will be seen that the scope of design in this class of loom is somewhat limited1 therefore much ingenuity is required to get elaborate designs from such limited capacity4 ,but careful study opens up a variety of methods by which a big range of designs is possible4 ,,interchanging ,,figure ,,and ,,face ,fig4 #e shows another type of design known as the 8interchanging0 fancy in which the figure warp does not pile up above the surface as it does in the stitch figure1 but remains flat with the face of the web4 ,the harness and chain drafts are shown at ,fig4 #e;,a4 ,in this character of design a given number of face threads are duplicated by a like number of figure threads1 the same size of yarn being used for both4 ,these face and figure threads are drawn in duplicate harnesses and operated just reverse to each other1 so that when the figure is up at any particular part1 the interchanging face threads are down1 and vice versa4 ,the figure weaves only three picks up on the chain draft1 which is one face pick seen on the face cloth1 and this produces a perfectly flat web4 ,another form of elaboration is shown in this web1 known as the 8picot0 edge4 ,it is generally made of a well cabled thread of silk and is woven in the selvage1 being bound in for several picks and then allowed to float outside1 so that upon the contraction of the web it will pearl out in small loops1 adding much to the elaboration of the web4 ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,combination of ,weaves in a ,fine ,web--,sunken ,effects ,made on ,head ,motion and ,jacquard ,looms--,employment of ,more ,than ,one ,bank of ,shuttles--,the ,overshot ,method--,use of ,different ,colors and ,grades of ,stock--,binding ,long ,floats ,a very effective combination of weaves in a fine web is seen at ,fig4 #a4 ,the middle of this web has for the face a #g up and #a down weave1 but the yarn and picking are fine4 ,the yarn piles up just enough next to the plain edge weave to set off the weaves in contrast to each other4 ,it will be noted that on either side of the silk figure there are two cords with the binder thread left out between each1 which further sharpens up the contrast4 ,the fancy effect is produced by the use of a heavy cabled cord1 the two outside threads being of reverse twist1 so that when they pearl up on contraction of the web1 one turns to the right and the other turns to the left1 making an effective border4 ,,sunken ,,effects ,an altogether different type of figuring is seen in ,figs4 #b and #c4 ,both of these webs illustrate what is known as the sunken effect4 ,in both cases the face is a three-leaf twill1 which character of weave is most effective in hiding the filling beneath it4 ,therefore1 the figure may be worked out in sharp contrast4 ,in ,fig4 #b1 which is made on a fancy head loom1 it will be noticed that the face threads on the fifth cord on either side are left out in order to assist in the carrying out of the plaid effect aimed at in the figure4 ,it will also be seen that the face warp is striped in color4 ,the character of the figure is such that the major part of the face warp is operated in one solid block1 making it practicable to produce this on harnesses worked on a chain loom4 ,in the web illustrated at ,fig4 #c1 each thread is operated in the design independently4 ,such designs are only producible on a jacquard loom4 ,but inasmuch as the threads used in forming the figure are confined to the face warp1 it is not necessary to operate the back or binder threads from the jacquard4 ,it is more convenient to have these worked from the cams or fancy head in combination with the jacquard1 for the reason that a truer and clearer shed can be obtained4 ,furthermore1 by having the back harness and the jacquard operated from two distinct movements it becomes possible to time them differently so as to obtain better results in the clearance of the stock in the shed4 ,a #bjh hook machine affords ample capacity for the making of these goods1 allowing for #bf rows of #h hooks each1 which will cover the requirements of nearly all classes of web1 giving an entire row to each cord4 ,such arrangements will allow for six hooks for the face1 one for the binder and one for the gut on each row4 ,thus it will be practicable to use different colored threads for the gut1 which may be brought up in the design in relief effects to the main figure as required4 ,,calculation ,,for ,,figure ,,distribution ,in this type of figuring1 calculation must be made to distribute the figure uniformly so as to get a well balanced flat effect of the web4 ,as already stated1 wherever the filling is shown1 all the face stock at these points is buried between the upper and the lower cloths1 and is acting as filler or gut in these places1 preventing contraction4 ,should heavy blocks be thus designed1 the web would pucker up in an unseemly manner4 ,the filling used should be soft and uniformly spun1 so that it will mass well together and in a great measure prevent the buried face stock from pricking through4 ,in designing webs of this character1 calculations have to be made from the web after it is woven and finished1 otherwise the design may be out of the desired proportion4 ,a web may have #fj picks per inch on the breast plate while weaving1 but when contraction has taken place after going through the press1 it may have shrunk as much as #ej per cent4 ,the steaming and finishing process may further contract it another #aj per cent4 which might make the picks about #ajj per inch4 ,of these only one-half appear on the face and the other half on the back4 ,therefore #ej picks per inch will be the proportion in which the design should be made1 and paper scaled according must be used4 ,,cross ,,shot ,,weaving ,we have so far confined our remarks to webs made on single shuttle looms4 ,turning our attention to the use of more than one bank of shuttles we would first make note of what is known as the cross shot4 ,this is a form of weaving which largely increases the output and has in it the further element of economy1 inasmuch as by this method the rubber warp can be worked at a much higher tension than by the single shuttle method4 ,in the construction of single shuttle webs1 the rubber harness rises and falls at each passage of the shuttle across the shed4 ,this movement creates a friction on the rubber thread at the harness eye and an added friction at the front reed by its passing up and down in the dent4 ,friction is still further increased by the backward and forward movement of the lay1 which makes two such passages to one made by the cross shot4 ,in the cross shot method1 the rubber remains stationary1 with no upward and downward motion1 which enables the rubber thread to be stretched out to its extreme limit while weaving1 with little danger of chafing or breaking4 ,over and under this stationary rubber are two distinct sheds1 one making the upper and the other the lower cloth4 ,these two fabrics are stitched together by the binder warp1 which travels up and down through both of these sheds4 ,in order to keep all the warp threads uniformly tight while shedding1 it is necessary to run these under separate back rolls1 fixed at different heights1 properly centering the upper and lower sheds with the harness and breast beams4 ,,position ,,of ,,rolls ,fig4 #d will explain the position of the various rolls in relation to the breast beam4 ,it will also show the peculiar formation of the shuttles used for this type of weaving1 both pointing to one common center1 made necessary by the character of the two sheds4 ,the bow of the upper shuttle must be tipped downwards1 and the lower bank must be tipped upwards1 so as to reduce the friction of the shuttles all possible when they are passing through the sheds4 ,the round edge or covering for the outside rubber threads is drawn in the harness on the upper shed1 and while being woven this cloth is pulled around the rubbers by the tension of the filling which is carried in the lower shuttle4 ,this tension is greater than that carried in the upper shuttle1 and so asserts itself by pulling the edge cloth around the outside rubber until it meets the back cloth weave4 ,the upper and lower fillings are connected by what are known as tie threads4 ,these threads are drawn in the harness at each side of the body warp1 next to the edge1 and are part of the binder warp4 ,they are operated from the binder harness1 but are only allowed to travel through the lower shed as far as the center of the web1 instead of going all through both sheds1 as do the balance of the binder warp4 ,this movement is accomplished by the use of long looped harness eyes1 which only carry these particular threads through the one shed4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #a4--;,effective ,combination of ,weaves ,in a ,fine ,web ,illustration3 ,figs4 #b and #c4--,sunken ,effects ,illustration3 ,fig4 #a;,a4--,harness and ,chain ,draft for ,fig4 #a ,illustration3 ,fig4 #d4--,position of ,rolls in ,relation to ,breast ,beam for ,cross ,shot ,weaving ,the binder movement1 extending through the two sheds1 is formed by a longer sweep from extra throw cams1 or by the use of extended cam jacks1 or by a combination of both4 ,the balance of these goods may be regulated both by the warp and the filling1 and any tendency towards curling may be corrected by changing the weight of stock used on either4 ,,use ,,of ,,different ,,stocks ,,and ,,colors ,the use of upper and lower fillings also allows for the use of different grades of stock in either shuttle4 ,colors may be used to match the face warps while white may be carried in the lower shuttle to match the back4 ,silk or other expensive stock may be used for the face without changing the character of the stock used for the back of the goods1 which is not practicable in single shuttle work4 ,all this of course makes it possible to reduce the cost1 making this the most economical web produced4 ,in the making of shoe goring1 a considerable quantity of which is still used for inserts for house slippers1 this is a very popular form of weaving1 allowing for the production of a face having a velvet-like pile of the color to match the shoe leather1 while the back may be perfectly plain and white4 ,it is a method employed in combination with the jacquard1 where fancy figures may be obtained on the face1 using the cam movement for the back1 binder and edge1 the weave of which is the same for all of these warps1 being simply a one up and one down4 ,in such a combination the labor on the jacquard movement is much reduced1 inasmuch as the travel of the lingo is much shorter than is required when made in connection with single shuttle4 ,,the ,,overshot ,,method ,the overshot method1 which we have previously referred to1 is another form of double shuttle web which has in it elements of economy differing from the cross shot but equally important4 ,this kind of weaving is designed as a substitute for silk jacquard webs1 which it has to a great extent supplemented4 ,before its introduction it was customary to use a slow running 8rise and fall0 lay movement1 when making a silk figure with the shuttle1 putting in one pick of silk filling to each two body picks1 so that the output of web was only about one-half of what is possible in overshot weaving4 ,in the old method the silk used to pass from edge to edge of the goods at each pick of the figure shuttle1 and where the figure did not appear it was buried between the upper and the lower cloths4 ,in the overshot method the silk figure is bound down at the edge or border of the figure and none of the silk is entirely buried out of sight4 ,in the overshot the body shuttle runs all the time1 while the figure or silk shuttle only runs with every alternate pick4 ,the main body of the goods is woven in every respect the same as in a single shuttle web1 and it may embrace all the weaves1 such as plains1 twills or fancies1 which are common to single shuttle weaving4 ,arrangements are made1 however1 for the production of an auxiliary shed1 by a movement which pulls certain threads above the main shed1 and while these are open to pass the extra shuttle under them1 and thus bind in the figure filling4 ,the lower part of the lay has straight shuttles1 while the upper bank of shuttles is tipped down to conform to the formation of the auxiliary shed they are designed to pass through4 ,the binder threads from which the overshot figure is generally operated1 are weighted very lightly so that the individual threads will easily stand the strain they will be subject to while making the auxiliary shed4 ,the ,crompton ,knowles overshot dobby is generally used for this purpose4 ,this special machine is provided with two horizontal draw knives1 operating any or all of the #cj hooks1 and is so arranged that the connected warp threads may be lifted at either or both picks to the height of the main shed1 or to the additional height of the auxiliary shed4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #e4--,simple ,overshot ,design ,illustration3 ,fig4 #e;,a4--,draft for ,fig4 #e ,in ,fig4 #e;,a is seen the draft of a simple overshot figure covering #bc hooks1 which are operated from one knife drawing in unison with the binder harness1 while the other knife is operating on the alternate shed1 or the heavy pick1 and working in unison with the rubber harness4 ,it will be noticed that in the overshot design both sides of the figure do not operate alike1 but follow one pick behind the other4 ,this is so arranged that the binder may come up at the right pick to properly bind down the silk in the goods1 and so avoid any irregularity or ragged appearance at the border of the figure4 ,,making ,,overshot ,,designs ,in making overshot designs1 care must be taken not to have the silk float too long1 or it will give the goods a rough coarse appearance4 ,should the design call for a long span over a number of cords1 it will be necessary to bind at intervals as shown in ,fig4 #e;,a1 and at each succeeding pick to break the order of the binding as may seem advisable4 ,the stitch or warp figure coming up at each side of the main figure1 must be pegged on the dobby chain to operate on the reverse knife to the overshot figure1 so as to work on the pick when the binder harness is down4 ,illustration3 ,figs4 #f and #g4--,other ,forms of ,overshot ,design ,fig4 #f is an example of another form of overshot design1 known as the 8matelasse40 ,in this the silk filling extends from side to side of the web1 as in the old form of jacquard1 being bound down at different points1 the bindings forming the figure4 ,fig4 #g shows still another form of overshot made by the operation of the gut as figure instead of the binder1 and which is worked on the heavy pick instead of on the binder pick4 ,this is done so that the intersecting cords of face1 which hide the silk at different points1 can be raised in order that the figure silk be hidden underneath it4 ,to accomplish this1 each of these face threads is passed through slip leashes1 which are operated from the dobby4 ,these slip leashes allow for the working of the face thread in the main harness4 ,at the same time it is possible to raise them to the height of the upper shed so that the silk shuttle may pass under them4 ,,chapter ,,vii4 ,making ,frills in the ,middle of ,goods--,woven ,shirred ,effects--,novel ,decoration at ,edge of ,fancy ,frills--,lappet ,weaving on ,elastic ,fabrics ,affords ,opportunity for ,elaboration at ,small ,cost--,production of ,pearl ,edge--,special ,fancy ,drafts ,woven elastic fabrics are open to many forms of elaboration that are not possible in non-elastic weaving4 ,we have already made mention of the frills woven at the outer edges of the goods1 formed by the fluting of non-elastic sections produced by the contraction of the center part4 ,this same effect may also be used in the center of the goods4 ,to accomplish this it becomes necessary to employ a distinct set of harnesses to operate each half of the web1 together with additional harnesses on which the frill sections are drawn in4 ,the chain draft is arranged so that the shuttle is made to pass through one-half of the web and a half section of the frill1 and then return4 ,the shuttle then passes through the other half section of body and frill4 ,the operation is repeated continuously4 ,fig4 #a shows a sample of web in which the frill is brought up for a distance and then buried inside the goods for a short section4 ,fig4 #a;,a gives the harness and chain draft4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #a4--,web ,with ,center ,frill ,illustration3 ,fig4 #b4--;,fancy ,figure ,with ,seersucker ,center ,the weave used for producing a frill may also be used in the center of the main body2 it then produces a seersucker effect4 ,at ,fig4 #b there will be seen an example of this1 in combination with a figure on either side of the seersucker1 the figure part being bordered with a regular frill4 ,the insertion of this seersucker section lessens the number of rubber strands used in the whole1 and it therefore will be found advisable to use a somewhat heavier size of rubber in the remaining cords to compensate for this4 ,the harness and chain draft for ,fig4 #b are given at ,fig4 #b;,a4 ,,woven ,,shirred ,,effect ,another example of an effective form of fancy elastic weaving may be seen at ,fig4 #c1 where the center or rubber part of the web is made to imitate a shirred effect4 ,in the regular method of shirring a piece of plain elastic web is used1 under tension1 and is passed through a sewing machine where a wider piece of ribbon or some other light non-elastic material is stitched to it by a series of needles running side by side4 ,when the web contracts1 upon being released from tension1 the non-elastic part forms in a regular fluting on the face of the web4 ,at the same time the remainder of the wider non-elastic section frills up on either side of the elastic part4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #a;,a4--,harness and ,chain ,draft for ,fig4 #a ,illustration3 ,fig4 #b;,a4--,harness and ,chain ,draft for ,fig4 #b ,the method of producing this effect direct upon the loom is done by an interchange of weaves1 first making a short section of single cloth and then changing to a short section of double cloth weave4 ,there being no binder warp employed to knit the upper and lower cloths together1 the strands of rubber will lie between the two cloths so formed4 ,upon the contraction of these strands of rubber the outer cloths are thrown out1 and appear as flutings on the web1 while the side sections in which there is no rubber will complete the frill effect4 ,this woven method has in it the advantage of making both sides of the web alike1 whereas in the stitched shirring the back of the goods is not so presentable and unfits it for many uses4 ,it also eliminates the added expense of labor in assembling the different parts4 ,,novel ,,decoration ,,at ,,edges ,a novel form of decoration is seen at the extreme edge of the fancy frill at ,fig4 #d4 ,this may be produced by what is known as the draw-in method4 ,this effect was formerly produced by the use of additional banks of shuttles in a rise and fall lay1 but is now made by using two threads of cabled silk coming from spools1 these threads being worked by the harness the same as a warp4 ,they are very lightly delivered by a delicately adjusted return spring arrangement4 ,the threads are operated on a special harness1 being passed through the harness eyes outside of all the other warp stock1 and then through a dent in the front reed as far away from the other stock as is desirable to form the size of the loop required4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #c4--,woven ,shirred ,effect ,illustration3 ,fig4 #d4--,novel ,edge ,decoration ,the harness used for these threads stands still a given number of picks1 and at regular intervals is brought down so that the draw-in thread comes in contact with the shuttle filling1 which then passes around it4 ,as the shuttle returns through the open shed1 the filling or weft pulls the easily running draw-in thread with it1 until it comes in contact with other warp threads1 which the filling passes around1 and so stops the further progress of the draw-in thread into the shed4 ,the thread at the same time is carried around a wire which works in a dent next inside the one in which the draw-in thread passes4 ,quite a variety of fancy effects may be produced in this manner4 ,threads of different materials and colors may be used and drawn across the face of the web at different points1 and selvages of a distinctly different color and character to the body of the goods may be made4 ,,lappet ,,weaving ,lappet weaving on elastic fabrics is a method which has not been extensively used1 probably on account of the limitations of design obtainable by this style of weaving4 ,nevertheless1 it affords opportunity for considerable elaboration at a very small cost4 ,the loom attachment which permits the making of these patterns1 which are somewhat similar to embroidery1 is known as the lappet motion4 ,wherever it has been used it has been found to be serviceable4 ,it can be attached either to a plain loom or a fancy loom4 ,it is a system of levers operated by a chain composed of different sized balls1 arranged according to the pattern desired4 ,on the loom lay are one or two slides running the full length of the lay1 which are moved laterally by the different sized chain balls4 ,they can also be raised and lowered as required by the design4 ,both these slides have generally three needles for each suspender web1 which are spaced at equal distances apart1 one or all of which may be threaded and used4 ,when slides are lowered into the web1 the shuttle filling or weft passes over the yarn which is carried in the needle eyes and binds it into the cloth4 ,then by moving the slides backward and forward for succeeding picks1 and each time binding the thread into the cloth1 the various lappet patterns are produced4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #e4--,lappet ,weaving ,illustration3 ,fig4 #f4--;,broken ,effect on ,silk ,frill ,the figures are mostly irregular trailing patterns1 as shown at ,fig4 #e1 and well adapted to narrow goods4 ,dots of different sizes and in different positions may also be made1 but it is not practical to get the finely finished lines which can be obtained from other methods where there is positive control of any particular warp threads or group of threads1 as for instance in jacquards and overshots4 ,the sliding bar of the lappet motion may vary slightly in its movements so that the needles will not always pierce through at exactly the same points at each repeat of the pattern1 although the general design will be maintained4 ,the threads which feed the needles should be of good clear ply material1 free from slubs and irregularities1 so that they will pass freely through the needle eyes1 and they should have enough turns to enable them to withstand the friction resulting from the backward and forward sliding movements of the lay passages4 ,the yarn must be delivered from independent spools1 which work with perfect freedom1 and measures should be taken to control the stock by the use of delicate springs4 ,the material used for the lappet figure is perhaps best run from grooved spools which are so weighted that they feed easily through the needles at every forward movement of the lay4 ,,pearl ,,edge ,an effective and inexpensive method of elaborating a silk frill is found in what is known as the pearl edge4 ,this adds much to the richness of the goods1 besides giving the appearance of greater width at slight increase of cost4 ,the pearl edge is produced by a series of fine steel edge wires1 which are carried in separate dents of the front reed outside of the frill itself4 ,each wire is operated by a special harness which brings it into the weaving lines as desired1 so that the filling may pass around it and make pearl loops at these particular places4 ,it will be found necessary to use hard steel dents in the front reed to work the wires in1 otherwise the dents will soon be cut from the constant wear of the wires4 ,a silk frill may also be much enriched by special fancy drafts4 ,these allow for the operation of groups of threads so that the filling passes over and under them and show up the luster of the silk filling in blocks contrasting with the more plainly woven parts4 ,an example of this is shown at ,fig4 #f4 ,,chapter ,,viii4 ,designs ,produced by ,use of ,jacquard in ,connection with ,cams or ,head ,motion--,weaving ,buttonholes in ,webs--,manufacture of ,surgical ,belts and ,bandages--,combination ,woven and ,printed ,designs--,method of ,printing ,in previous articles we have confined our remarks to the production of elastic fabrics on plain and fancy looms4 ,these machines are more or less limited in capacity1 and the stock must be operated in groups of threads4 ,considerable care is necessary in the selection of patterns best adapted to these looms4 ,in jacquard weaving each separate thread is controllable1 and the scope of pattern and design is limited only by the space available on the face of the fabric4 ,of course certain general rules1 which have been laid down for the production of designs on fancy looms1 are applicable to the making of jacquard designs4 ,for example1 where sunken effects are aimed at it is necessary to uniformly distribute the buried stock1 just as it is in the fancy loom method2 otherwise uneven or 8cockled0 web will result on account of there being too much buried stock at some particular point1 which prevents uniform contraction4 ,,designs ,,in ,,sunken ,,effects ,fig4 #a is an illustration of a pattern where the sunken effect is well distributed4 ,this pattern also shows the operation of two sets of figure threads brought up alternately4 ,both warps are buried to allow the back filling to appear in relief4 ,this indicates the wide scope of design possible on a single shuttle1 which is almost unlimited4 ,fig4 #b illustrates a double shuttle design which has a sunken warp effect in connection with a silk figure4 ,it also serves to illustrate the effect of skein dyed silk for decorative purposes4 ,fig4 #c shows still another type of double shuttle design1 in which a parti-colored face warp lends an entirely different effect to a design4 ,fig4 #d is an example of three shuttle work where one shuttle is used for the ground1 and two shuttles for the silk figure4 ,it would be easy materially to enlarge on the various types of design possible in jacquard weaving of elastic webs but this is not necessary4 ,if a straight tie-up is used the scope of design is almost unlimited4 ,the custom generally adopted is to operate the back1 rubber and gut from chain or cam harness1 as the same movement of all these threads is maintained continuously1 and to operate the face and binder from the jacquard4 ,fig4 #e is an illustration of a fully rigged jacquard suspender loom1 having two machines mounted on it1 and with the back and rubber harness operated by the fancy head4 ,,jacquard ,,tie-,,up ,too much emphasis cannot be laid on the necessity for exercising the greatest care in the jacquard tie-up and the leveling of the strings4 ,as already stated in a previous article1 any failure in the initial arrangements will result in constant trouble and faulty work4 ,mispicks and floats may not be serious in many types of non-elastic fabrics1 but in elastic webs a float will so pearl up on construction that the goods will be ruined4 ,once again1 and of the greatest importance1 measures should surely be taken to have some form of screw adjustment for the raising and lowering of the jacquard machines to compensate for expansion and contraction of the strings1 caused by changing atmospheric conditions4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #a ,fig4 #b ,fig4 #c ,fig4 #d ,illustration3 ,fig4 #f4--;,formation of ,abdominal ,belt ,,weaving ,,buttonholes ,in the assembling and making up of narrow elastic fabrics1 particularly suspenders1 it is often necessary to use buttonholes in the finished products4 ,sometimes the buttonholes are cut and worked on the ordinary buttonhole sewing machines1 but on account of the difficulty arising in the controlling of the strands of rubber when it is cut for working1 a very unsightly buttonhole often results4 ,it has therefore been found advisable to weave the buttonholes1 particularly for what is known as the 8,guyot0 suspender1 where elastic pieces having buttonholes are used for the back ends1 and non-elastic straps1 also having buttonholes1 are used for the front straps4 ,the loom will automatically weave the buttonholes at any desired place1 and at the same rate of speed at which the plain part is woven4 ,this is accomplished by the use of two banks of shuttles1 both of which are running in the same direction at every pick of the loom1 but only one of which1 7the upper7 is engaged with the cloth while the plain part of the goods is being woven1 the other bank running 8dead0 underneath the goods during the operation4 ,when the buttonhole is about to be made1 two distinct sheds are formed and then the two banks of shuttles are engaged1 the upper bank on one half of the strap and the lower bank on the other half1 until the completion of the buttonhole4 ,then one shed is again formed in place of the two1 and the upper bank resumes the operation of weaving the plain part of the strap4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #e--;,jacquard ,suspender ,loom ,with ,two ,machines and ,fancy ,head ,this process of changing from the single to the double shed is accomplished by the use of a specially designed cam jack made in two sections1 to which are attached two harness frames1 in each of which one side of the strap is drawn4 ,while weaving the plain part of the strap both sections of the cam jack operate in unison1 running side by side from the same cam1 but when the buttonhole is 8called on0 a device for spreading apart each pair of cam jacks is operated1 and the two sheds are then formed4 ,at the same time a lever movement changes the position of the lay1 so that the two banks of shuttles take new positions and properly engage the two sheds4 ,facilities are provided for governing the length of the straps and the position and length of the buttonholes4 ,when the lower shuttle is not engaged in the buttonhole shed1 the filling may run loosely beneath the goods1 and require trimming off between the buttonholes4 ,this trimming may be avoided by operating the center binder thread1 putting the same in a skeleton harness and giving it an extended shedding so that this particular thread may be dropped below the main shed and allow the lower shuttle to engage it4 ,by this process the thread is bound in the goods at every pick of the loom and does not need trimming4 ,the elastic back end1 having a buttonhole in it1 is also made on a special loom1 which has a 8rise and fall0 movement of the lay4 ,it has a chain fancy head with what is known as a ,gem multiplier on it for regulating the length of the plain part1 so that one repeat of the plain weave can be multiplied indefinitely and the buttonhole chain called on as desired4 ,in making up sections of elastic webs for various purposes1 particularly when required to be attached to garments1 it is often found that the joinings are bulky and unsightly on account of their thickness4 ,a web is made on the special loom just described of such character that it does away with this objection4 ,a section of plain web may be woven of any desired length1 and then another section made in which the upper and lower cloth are woven separately for a given distance4 ,after being taken from the loom this double section is cut in the middle1 so that the non-elastic part may be used for attaching to the garment4 ,when thus made the rubber and binder lie 8dead0 between the two cloths1 and are trimmed off after the non-elastic part is cut in two4 ,,making ,,abdominal ,,belts ,there is a growing demand for webs of various characters for surgical and orthopedic purposes4 ,one of these which calls for special attention is a web used in the manufacture of abdominal belts4 ,the width varies from about four inches1 where it is used to support the back1 to about six inches at the part which is used for the support of the abdomen4 ,such a web is constructed in the regular manner employed on plain webs1 except that it is woven in a deep front reed made to taper from top to bottom1 from fine to coarse4 ,this reed is arranged in a reed pocket attached to the lay bed1 and is designed to slide up and down behind it4 ,underneath the lay is an adjustable screw mechanism1 which is so operated that it can be made to remain stationary for a given length of time1 and then gradually work up and down in a given period4 ,this allows a web to be produced with a formation similar to that shown at ,fig4 #f4 ,the rubber cords lie close together while weaving the first narrow part1 and gradually spread while operating at the wide part1 returning to their original position for the other narrow end4 ,if properly constructed the goods will lie perfectly flat at the narrow ends1 and the opening up of the cords by the spreading of the reed dents at the wide center will give more freedom to the individual strands of rubber in this section1 which will cause the goods to 8belly0 at this point4 ,this rounding formation especially adapts them for the purposes for which they are intended4 ,various modifications of the taper web may be made in this manner1 but the same general plan is applicable to all4 ,,printing ,,designs ,,on ,,elastic ,,web ,the printing of designs on elastic web is a form of embellishment which opens up large possibilities for variety of effect1 and adds much to the selling quality of many webs at slight additional cost4 ,moreover it gives an opportunity for changing the character of many woven patterns which may not have proved good sellers1 but when printed will often become the most popular patterns offered4 ,a woven striped effect with a few crossbars printed on1 transforming it into a plaid1 changes its character entirely4 ,or a few dots distributed over a pattern hitherto undesirable may make big changes in its selling qualities4 ,but apart from this the field of original design is practically unlimited4 ,the work is most satisfactorily accomplished by using oil inks of various colors1 making proper arrangements for the drying so that the colors are absolutely fast4 ,colors should not be used which are more or less fugitive and liable to spread in the process of finishing4 ,the goods1 when printed1 are run loosely in cans and allowed to stand a reasonable time for proper absorption of the ink4 ,they are then run slowly through a heated chamber to set the colors1 a number of strips being put through the drying chamber at one time4 ,the pattern rolls are best made with the design raised on the face of the pattern1 and the ink uniformly distributed on the raised part4 ,care should be used to have the set of the rolls so adjusted that the part where the figure does not appear will not come in contact with the ink roll4 ,this method has proved better than using engraved rolls1 besides being less expensive4 ,after the design is drawn it is photo-engraved on a plate of a given length so that it may be shaped and fitted around the printing roll1 great care being taken to have the repeat properly connected1 particularly where the pattern is a continuous one without any break in the design4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #g4--;,diagram of ,machine for ,printing ,elastic ,fabrics ,fig4 #g is a sketch of a printing machine4 ,the design roll ,a is five inches in diameter and constructed of a number of thicknesses of maple wood1 glued and screwed firmly together1 with the grain well crossed to prevent shrinkage and warping4 ,the design plate is carefully fitted around and pinned securely to this roll4 ,the rubber covered rolls ,b and ,c carry the ink and are positively driven4 ,the small roll ,d1 while revolving by frictional contact with roll ,c1 is also vibrated sidewise by a cam-driven lever ,e1 so as to distribute the ink uniformly4 ,the rolls are run on steel centers and can be so adjusted as to center any given pattern on the goods4 ,all the roll carriers are fitted in a taper groove which is planed to the full length of the frame bed1 so that the pressure of the different rolls can be accurately adjusted4 ,the machines are easily operated and print #ab1jjj to #ae1jjj yards of web a day4 ,,chapter ,,ix4 ,making ,warps for ,elastic ,fabrics--,quills for ,use in ,shuttles--,effect of ,finishing ,processes ,must ,be ,calculated from ,beginning of ,web ,construction--,details of ,processes and ,machines for ,different ,styles of ,goods--,care to ,avoid ,acid in ,goods--,rubber's ,reaction on ,copper ,the making of cotton warps for elastic fabrics1 particularly for double cloth webs1 involves considerable thought and care in view of the number of sections necessary for a properly constructed fabric1 and the different weaves employed4 ,owing to the contraction of the rubber1 it is essential at all times that the proper balance be maintained between the face and the back of the goods4 ,this necessitates a uniform weight of stock where the weaves on the face and the back are identical1 no matter how the size of the yarns used may vary1 and a variable weight of stock where the weaves are different4 ,all this is determined by experimental work when establishing the grade4 ,these conditions necessitate separate warps for the face and back4 ,then again the different weaves employed involve a variable length in the take-up and this alone would make it impracticable to combine the various weaves4 ,it is invariably the plan to use fine stock for the face and a coarser material for the back4 ,of course it would not be practical to put these together on the same beam4 ,the crowded condition of material used necessitates the further splitting of the face and back sections4 ,the binder1 which takes up so much faster than any of the other yarns1 also requires a special warp4 ,,selvage ,,under ,,special ,,control ,the general appearance of the finished product being so dependent upon the character of the selvage1 it is advisable to have these threads under special control1 so that they may be treated in the best possible manner to produce a satisfactory shed1 and allow the filling to get a good clearance4 ,so as to secure a smooth well-rounded edge it is therefore necessary to have this on a special beam4 ,it will be seen1 therefore1 that in an ordinary piece of double cloth elastic web there will be required at least five warps3 back1 face1 binder1 edge and gut4 ,figures and fancy effects will often necessitate auxiliary warps4 ,with very fine webs1 having six threads to a cord1 it is often found necessary further to split up the face to obtain proper working conditions4 ,figs4 #a and #a;,a show a six-cord web1 together with warp calculations for the goods4 ,the employment of so many warps to each strip of web1 which are automatically delivered by the friction let-off levers described in a previous article1 prohibits the use of warps where the threads are equally distributed across the beam1 as is the practice in wide fabrics1 the method usually being to tape them on the beams4 ,,warping ,,machine ,the required spools for the number of threads in the warp are put in a creel1 each thread passing under an electrically connected wire1 which is held out of contact by the running thread while the warp is making4 ,if the thread should break1 the wire would drop and make an electrical connection which would automatically stop the machine4 ,fig4 #b shows a view of a warping machine such as is used for this work4 ,they are generally constructed so as to allow for two or four beams1 all of which may be run together or started1 stopped or run individually1 as required4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #a4--,six-,cord ,web ,illustration3 ,fig4 #a;,a4--,harness and ,chain ,draft for ,fig4 #a ,each beam is friction driven so that a uniform speed is obtained in the delivery of the yarn from the spools4 ,beams are also so arranged that they will stop automatically on reaching a given size4 ,each warp thread is passed through a pair of reeds1 fitted with dead stops in the center of alternating dent spaces1 so that leases may be put in the warps at fixed intervals to assist in keeping them straight in the looms4 ,in taping the warps on the beams1 it is customary in some mills to run the threads over a small steel flanged pulley about one and one-half inches wide1 which will keep each thread in its proper position and make the tape absolutely straight and flat as it leads to the beam4 ,a perfect fabric is largely dependent upon how well the warps have been made1 but it must not be forgotten that a good warp may be spoiled by a poor beam4 ,beam flanges should not lie flat against the warp creel standards1 but should be kept clear by the formation of the head near the barrel1 which should have enough prominence at this point to keep the flanges clear1 and thus reduce the friction to a minimum4 ,the edges of the flanges should be perfectly smooth so as to allow for uniform delivery by the contact lever4 ,much of the beam abuse which occurs in many mills might be avoided by provision being made for beam racks at convenient points4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #b4--,warping ,machine ,,quills ,,for ,,shuttles ,the making of proper quills for use in the shuttle is of no small importance1 for on this the evenness and uniformity of the selvage very much depends4 ,when flanged wood quills are used1 the guides should be carefully adjusted so that the filling is uniformly spread over the entire length of the quill1 allowing for perfect freedom at each end without dragging4 ,quills should not be overloaded4 ,in drum pressure quilling1 the automatic stop should be so arranged that the quill will be filled even with the outer edge of the flanges and no more4 ,should there be any tendency to hardness in the material used for filling1 it may be found advisable to run the thread over a plush pad on which has been applied a light application of cocoanut oil1 but great care should be exercised not to overdo this as there is nothing so hurtful to rubber goods as oil4 ,the quills should only be of sufficient length to allow for uniform delivery from the shuttle without dragging at the ends4 ,to assist in this elongated shuttle eyes are preferable to round ones1 so as to shorten the angle at which the filling leaves the quill when running from the extreme end4 ,thumb bits should be so adjusted that the delivery is uniform from start to finish4 ,the quill flanges should not lie flat against the sides of the quill opening1 but should be pointed at the ends so as to reduce the friction4 ,quill wires should be of hard tempered steel and be perfectly straight at all times4 ,when it becomes necessary to run narrow goods in wide spaces1 recoil springs should be provided to gather up the loose filling4 ,,care ,,required ,,in ,,finishing ,the finishing of elastic fabrics is a process which demands great care1 and has to be taken into calculation from the beginning of the web construction4 ,calculations must always be made as to what effect heat1 moisture and sizing will have upon the covered up elastic threads1 confined as they are in a multiple of small cavities and under high tension4 ,as soon as the softening influence of heat and steam operate upon the covering of cotton yarn which confines these threads1 the rubber strands begin to assert themselves and contraction at once takes place4 ,to what extent this can go must be predetermined in fixing values1 and a certain degree of uniformity of contraction arranged for4 ,webs which are perfectly flat and straight when taken from the looms are liable to be transformed into unshapely products and completely ruined by unsuitable finishing4 ,for instance1 take a web with a twill center and a plain border which is apparently flat and satisfactory at the loom4 ,the effect of heat and steam upon such a web will be to contract the soft woven center more than the harder woven plain border1 which will cause the web to be long-sided and curl4 ,such a condition must be anticipated in the construction of the web and provision made to offset its occurrence4 ,sometimes it must be met by a change in the size of some of the yarns used1 or number of threads employed at given points1 or perhaps added gut threads must be introduced to stop contraction in certain places4 ,it must always be remembered that we are dealing with a very much alive element when we are finishing rubber goods1 and that unexpected results may at any time arise4 ,,finishing ,,machines ,finishing machines vary both in design and capacity1 but the general principle is the same in all4 ,a series of drying cans are arranged for the application of the sizing mixture4 ,some machines are laid out horizontally and some are upright4 ,in the longitudinal layout the machines are more easily accessible in their different parts and under better control1 while the upright machines are more compact and occupy less floor space4 ,fig4 #c shows a horizontal machine of the latest type4 ,it has a drying capacity of eleven cylinders1 #bd inches wide1 #cf inches in diameter1 allowing for a web contact of about #ajj feet4 ,these cylinders are arranged in two decks so as to economize in floor space4 ,the goods first pass through a pair of independently driven circular brushes1 fixed at the feed end of the machine1 to clear them from lint and dirt before being steamed and dried4 ,they next pass between two pairs of nip rolls between which are fixed the steaming and sizing attachments4 ,the goods pass through dry high pressure steam which is confined in a steam chest4 ,they pass into and out of this chest through slots underneath the cover4 ,a trough carries the condensed steam away from the goods and prevents dripping1 otherwise they would be spotted4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #c4--,narrow ,fabric ,finishing ,machine ,the steam pressure must be carefully controlled so as to get uniform shrinkage of the goods4 ,the steaming process softens the cotton1 and the rubber threads1 which are under considerable tension1 gradually creep up and contract the goods4 ,the steaming also makes the web more absorbent and thus prepares it for the size bath1 through which it is passed under submerged brass rollers4 ,the size is kept at a uniform heat by steam heated copper coils4 ,the web then passes through the second pair of nip rolls1 which are worked under pressure so as to squeeze out the size before the web reaches the drying cans4 ,,allowance ,,for ,,contraction ,the first of the dry cans is usually covered with cloth1 so as to absorb any size which may remain on the surface of the goods and allow it to penetrate by further softening4 ,as the goods continue to pass over the hot cans a gradual process of contraction takes place4 ,this contraction is provided for by a corresponding regulation of the speed of the cans4 ,intermediate expansion pulleys are provided for this purpose1 so that the speed adjustments can readily be made to meet the requirements of different kinds of web4 ,the two pairs of front rubber nip rolls are likewise independently driven1 so as to provide for the shrinkage which takes place at the steam box and size bath4 ,at the delivery end of the machine the goods pass through a set of nip rolls which are belt-driven from cone pulleys1 so as to be able to deliver the goods at the speed they leave the last drying cans4 ,from these last nip rolls1 which are fixed quite high1 they drop into receiving cans or boxes4 ,ten to twenty-five strips running side by side are finished at one time4 ,adjustable guides are provided at different places on the machines to keep the goods running in proper position4 ,the speed of the machine is usually governed by a ,reeves transmission1 and the delivery of the goods ranges from #aj to #ae yards per minute1 according to the requirements of finishing4 ,three inches per yard is generally allowed for shrinkage1 but this again is determined by the goods4 ,neglect at any point in this process may so interfere with the calculated shrinkage that values and costs are materially changed4 ,new patterns and grades should be tested for shrinkage as soon as the goods come from the loom1 as short lengths made in sample looms are not at all times reliable4 ,frequent tests are also advisable to see that original conditions are maintained1 as changes made by heat1 steam and speed are always liable to occur4 ,the immersing process is used mostly for single cloth garter webs4 ,double cloth webs having a warp pile on the face are sized on the back only4 ,exceptions are made on double cloth white webs used for the corset trade1 which are bathed with a very light size and often tinted in this bathing process to the desired tone of white to match the cloths they are to be associated with4 ,where the goods are sized on the back only the effect of this has to be considered when they are constructed1 and provision made to maintain a proper balance under such conditions4 ,in frilled webs the elastic portion only is sized1 so as not to interfere in any way with the soft flutings of the frill4 ,this is done by guiding each strip over narrow pulleys which are run through the size bath4 ,the size accumulated on these pulleys is absorbed by the web passing over them4 ,,acid ,,in ,,goods ,the requirements of the trade are so varied1 and the types of web so numerous1 that no formula for size is suitable for general use4 ,care must be taken1 however1 to avoid any sizes containing acids4 ,results from the use of such preparations may seem excellent at the machine but later on1 when the goods are made up and come in contact with metal parts1 the metal is quickly tarnished1 and the result may be heavy claims for damage4 ,it may be well to note here that the sulphur used in the process of vulcanizing the rubber has the effect of blackening the copper cans and the rolls over which the goods must pass4 ,this can be effectively prevented by having the cans nickel plated1 thus doing away with much risk of dirty goods1 and of constant scourings and washing of the different parts4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #d4--,narrow ,fabric ,singer ,provision should be made for sufficient depth in the sizing pans so that they will hold a liberal supply of size4 ,replenishment should be made at regular intervals and the heat maintained at a uniform temperature to get satisfactory results4 ,it is advisable to make provisions to travel the web over the top of the machine for a distance after immersion in the size bath1 and before it strikes the hot cans1 so as to allow for proper absorption of the size4 ,all these details are best worked out by experience4 ,webs are generally fed into the machine from racks after being properly wound up1 and great care must be taken to avoid any variable tension on the webs when entering the machine4 ,on lisle webs1 a process of gassing or singeing takes place prior to finishing for the purpose of removing any fuzz or fibre from the goods4 ,fig4 #d shows a gassing machine used for this purpose4 ,it is run at a high rate of speed and several strips are gassed at once4 ,when the machine is running the flames are close to the web1 but upon the stopping of the machine the flames are carried away out of contact4 ,in gassing white and colors1 great care must be exercised to have the gas mixture correct and free from any carbonizing effect on the goods4 ,,chapter ,x4 ,embossing ,webs--,type of ,construction and ,design for ,which ,process is ,adapted--,braiding ,flat ,elastic ,fabrics1 ,plain ,cords for ,athletics and ,airplanes1 and ,fancy ,cords--,how ,sizes ,are ,indicated--,difference ,between ,woven and ,braided ,effects ,the embossing of classic fabrics is a form of elaboration which is not adapted for long stretch webs4 ,it has been confined mostly to goods of short stretch1 suitable for use in the manufacture of suspenders4 ,in long stretch webs the patterns will not stand out prominently for any length of time4 ,after repeated stretchings and wear1 they lose much of the desirable sharpness of detail1 and become flat and indistinct4 ,twills and loose weaves of a similar character should be avoided for embossing4 ,the best results are obtained on firm1 closely woven plain webs which take the impress of the design with clearness and retain it for a greater length of time4 ,,designs ,,suitable ,,for ,,embossing ,in planning such work it is well to avoid designs which run for any great length with the warp1 and to select effects where the general run of the design is at an angle to the direction of the warp threads1 rather than with them4 ,this will prolong the life of the figure4 ,the process is similar to that used in embossing paper and leatheroid goods4 ,the machine must be heavy and made to stand considerable pressure4 ,it should be run slowly so as to allow the goods to get sufficient heat while in contact with the embossing roll4 ,the webs should pass through a steam softening process just ahead of the embossing4 ,this steaming is done by having a perforated steam pipe confined in a covered box1 the web passing through slots at either side4 ,it puts the goods in condition to receive and retain the impress of the figure4 ,,embossing ,,machine ,figs4 #a and #b show a machine used for embossing elastic fabrics4 ,it consists chiefly of a heavy frame ,a1 a case hardened steel roll ,b on which the design has previously been engraved1 and a hard paper roll ,c4 ,the engraved steel roll ,b is heated with steam and may be subjected to heavy pressure by turning the hand wheels ,d4 ,when putting in a new design and accompanying paper roll1 it is necessary to run the machine empty for a few hours1 gradually applying the pressure at the hand wheels in order to mesh the design into the paper roll so as to get a strong impress on the goods4 ,when moire-antique or water effects are desired1 the embossing rolls are engraved with straight lines of the desired distance apart1 and the goods are fed into the machine after passing over irregularly formed rollers1 which prevent them from going through the machine straight4 ,fig4 #c is an example of this effect1 with the gros grain in the middle water-marked1 and bordered with a fancy effect not embossed4 ,,braiding ,,elastic ,,fabrics ,the braiding of elastic fabrics is a simple process when compared with weaving4 ,it does not lend itself to any great variety of fancy effects1 but a great variety of elastic goods are braided1 which serve many purposes4 ,round cords are made in sizes from a single strand of rubber thread1 such as is used for the protection of eye glasses1 to the covering of multiple rubber threads for making a cord which may be one inch or more in diameter4 ,some of these cords are used by professional athletes in acrobatic work4 ,large quantities of heavy cord are now used for shock absorbers in the manufacture of airplanes1 and they are much used for corset laces and doll cords4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #a4--;,embossing ,machine ,illustration3 ,fig4 #b4--;,end ,view ,illustration3 ,fig4 #c4--;,embossed ,water-,marked ,effect on ,middle stripe ,illustration3 ,fig4 #d4--;,at ,top1 ,cord ,used by ,acrobats2 ,at ,bottom1 ,exercise ,cord ,in ,two ,colors ,the braiding machines are small and compact1 and are generally operated in gangs on benches4 ,one operator can care for many machines1 as they stop automatically when a thread breaks4 ,each machine may consist of a variable number of spool carriers1 according to the character of the work they are engaged on4 ,carriers are made to travel around cam-like grooves formed in the bed of the machine1 being operated by a chain of gears which propel them around a predetermined course4 ,gears and slots are so arranged that the carriers are made to cross and recross each other in their passage1 so that the various threads of yarn carried are plaited around the strands of rubber4 ,the spools used on the carriers are specially designed1 and have a series of notches on the upper end1 into which a stop will drop upon the breaking of any of the different covering threads1 automatically stopping the machine4 ,the rubber is carried on a beam such as is used in weaving4 ,these beams are grooved on either side for receiving friction cords or belts1 on which are hung weights so as to govern the let-off of the beams and keep the rubber at a high tension4 ,the beams are hung on brackets underneath the machines4 ,if cords are being made1 the rubber is delivered through a central hole in the bed of the machine and fed up so that the covering threads may be plaited around it4 ,as there is no friction on the rubber threads delivered in this manner 7like the friction in weaving caused by the repeated passage of the reed71 the rubber can be worked at the highest possible tension without fear of chafing or breaking1 and economical results in this respect are obtainable4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #e4--;,at ,bottom4 ,flat ,braid ,contracted2 ,at ,top1 the ,same ,braid ,before ,contraction ,illustration3 ,fig4 #f4--;,at ,bottom1 ,braided ,frill2 ,at ,top1 the ,same ,frill ,before ,contraction ,,flat ,,braids ,where flat braids are made the rubber threads are passed separately through different holes in the machine bed and the yarn is braided in and out between these threads1 binding them together side by side so that they are flat as in a woven fabric4 ,by this method each of the different covering threads passes from one side of the flat web to the other1 giving them a diagonal direction across the fabric4 ,this diagonal crossing and recrossing of the covering threads allows for the introduction of different colors1 which produce a plaid-like effect4 ,in making the flat braid1 when the individual rubber threads pass through the separate holes on the outer part of the bed plate of the machine1 they all gather to one common center after they are through4 ,this causes the rubber threads1 when they are at a very high tension1 to draw at a very acute angle at the edge of the hole1 which necessitates running them at a lower tension than is desirable for economy4 ,it also introduces a liability to break under the strain4 ,in some mills this is cared for by passing each thread over a small case hardened steel roller1 thus avoiding the friction at the edge of the hole4 ,,sizes ,,of ,,cords ,the sizes of cords are determined by the ,birmingham wire gauge as follows 7,diameters in decimal parts of an inch73 ,size #a 4#cjj ,size #b 4#bhd ,size #c 4#bei ,size #d 4#bch ,size #e 4#bbj ,size #f 4#bjc ,size #g 4#ahj ,size #h 4#afe ,in sizing or measuring the cord1 it is passed easily into the gauge1 so that it hugs the sides without crowding4 ,any cords made heavier than a ,no4 #a are designated by fractions of one inch in eighths4 ,it becomes necessary in making heavy round cords1 such as are used by athletes and in the manufacture of airplanes1 to have a very durable covering over the strands of rubber4 ,such a covering is put on by using double deck machines1 where above the regular machine there is another bed plate having a second set of carriers which travel around the braided fabric coming up from the lower deck4 ,in such cases the inner covering is generally a cheap coarse material1 while the upper deck of carriers braid the outer covering around it1 which is of a higher grade material1 often a highly glazed polished thread4 ,machines are made of a variable number of carriers to suit goods of different character that are required4 ,provision is made to carry the rubber beam in hanging brackets underneath the machine1 which are of sufficient strength and firmness to carry the maximum weight necessary for governing the rubber tension4 ,above the machine there is a gear-driven take-up shaft1 on which are tension rolls to govern the feed of the goods when braiding4 ,the speed of these rolls can be regulated by change gears of various sizes4 ,the goods are then fed on a belt-driven spool4 ,on the very heavy goods it is necessary to pass them through other press rolls to prevent any slipping back when feeding from the braiders4 ,,fancy ,,braided ,,cords ,the wide range of goods of this character1 covering so many varied uses1 makes it impracticable to particularize on any special construction4 ,in the making of braids and ,vienna cords1 the general methods are much the same as those described for braiding the round cords1 except that the travel of the carriers is different and the strands of rubber are fed up singly1 instead of in a group1 so that the carriers may pass in and out between them4 ,a different machine is required for the various widths and number of strands of rubber used4 ,two carriers are required for each strand of rubber used and one over4 ,for example1 an eight strand braid requires #ag carriers1 while a #aj strand requires #ba1 and so on4 ,the width of the braid may be further regulated by the contraction of the goods determined upon and provided for in the take-up2 also by the size and character of the material used for covering4 ,on account of the diagonal formation of the covering threads when braiding1 it will be seen that variable contraction of the web will produce variable widths4 ,this is not so with a woven elastic fabric1 inasmuch as the weft lies straight across the web and therefore the same width is maintained whether it is stretched or otherwise4 ,in braiding1 the threads move both across and lengthwise of the fabric1 taking the place of both warp and filling1 therefore increased contraction1 no matter whether it is produced from the use of heavier rubber1 or changed material or take-up1 results in greater width1 inasmuch as the lengthwise position of the threads is brought into a new position which is more of a crosswise formation4 ,this diagonal lay of the covering threads opens up possibilities for very effective plaid effects1 but this is the limit of color elaboration4 ,a fancy frill effect may be obtained by the omission of rubber threads at the outer edges4 ,,chapter ,,xi4 ,,weaving ,,the ,,van ,,heusen ,,collar ,heavy ,loom ,required--,how ,long-,sided ,effect and ,folding ,line ,are ,obtained--,cloth ,construction ,until recently the soft collar was cut and carved into shape from plain piece goods4 ,the patented ,van ,heusen collar has done away with much of this1 for from the loom is produced a fabric properly shaped and formed for the purpose1 and ready to be cut into suitable lengths4 ,it is adapted to various styles4 ,clumsy joinings are done away with and a collar is produced which combines shape1 comfort and appearance4 ,much labor in collar manufacturing is also eliminated by this method of production4 ,there have recently been quite a number of factories put on the production of these goods1 and at least one newly organized factory is devoted exclusively to their manufacture4 ,the main feature in the ,van ,heusen collar is that it is woven in such a manner that when it leaves the loom it is complete in respect of the cloth for the band and outer part1 with provision made for folding1 thus doing away with any joining together of the two parts as formerly4 ,the formation of a cloth having the novel quality of allowing for a greater woven length at the outer edge of the collar than at the band1 properly graded throughout so as to meet all the requirements of a collar in comfort and fit1 at the same time providing for the insertion of the scarf so that it will run easily1 and also allowing for the production of a variety of styles1 calls for features in manufacturing that are different in many respects from the making of a flat fabric4 ,,heavy ,,loom ,,required ,the first essential is a loom of sufficient strength and firmness to withstand the heavy beat of the lay resulting from packing in the filling1 where an aggregate weight of #a1jjj pounds for each individual piece must be carried4 ,the looms which are now being used have from #ab to #af pieces1 so that it will be seen that they must be very rigid indeed properly to care for the weight carried on the combined pieces1 and maintain uniform picking4 ,in order also to get the requisite shed opening1 the strain on the cams and cam jacks is severe1 so that provision for ample strength at these parts is essential4 ,,cone-,,shaped ,,take-,,up ,,roll ,the long-sided formation of the cloth is produced by the use of a cone-shaped take-up roll1 as shown in the illustration1 which has a slope of #a inch in #f inches4 ,above this cone-shaped roll is hung a straight roll1 which swings freely to different angles1 so as to take care of the slack delivered to the take-up roll4 ,it will be noticed that one leg of the swinging roll is longer than the other1 thus allowing the straight roll to set in proper position over the cone4 ,at first thought it would seem advisable to provide a reverse cone-shaped take-up roll1 as shown in the illustration1 which has a slope of #a ,transcriber's ,note3 ,it's possible that a line of text was missing here from the original printing1 as the sentence doesn't make complete sense the impracticability of such an arrangement and the straight roll with a free movement as described is more desirable4 ,it is also necessary1 or at least advisable1 to use a slightly tapered roll on the breast beam1 over which the cloth passes4 ,,woven ,,in ,,three ,,widths ,the fabric woven is made in three widths1 #d inches1 #d inches and #e inches1 with the folding line in different positions in each width1 so as to provide for different styles4 ,the great amount of stock employed over these widths1 and the difference in the take-up between one side of the web and the other1 makes it necessary to divide the warps into sections and carry considerable weight on each1 so as to obtain a perfect clearance in the shed1 and pack the filling in uniformly4 ,,the ,,weave ,the weave employed is an ordinary double cloth plain1 made with face1 back1 binder and gut4 ,it is necessary to have #b back1 #b binder1 #d face and #d gut warps4 ,the accompanying table will show the number of threads required in each warp1 together with the weights carried on each one4 ,,warp ,,details ,,for ,,van ,,heusen ,,collar #d ,inch #d ,inch #e ,inch ,no4 of ,threads ,weight ,no4 of ,threads ,no4 of ,threads ,warps 7#fj_/b7 ,carried ,warps 7#fj_/b7 ,warps 7#fj_/b7 ,face #b #ii #h lbs4 each #b #aji #b #aai ,face #b #hb #g lbs4 each #b #ib #b #ajd ,back #a #aih #ac lbs4 each #a #bah #b #bch ,back #a #afd #ab lbs4 each #a #ahd #b #bjh ,binder #a #ii #aj lbs4 each #a #aji #a #aai ,binder #a #gh #g lbs4 each #a #hh #a #ajj ,gut #b #ii #h lbs4 each #b #aji #b #aai ,gut #b #gh #g lbs4 each #b #hh #b #ajj ,it is essential that these warps be properly separated at the back rolls2 ,use the first roll for two binder1 second for #d face1 third for #b back and fourth for #d gut4 ,a #bd dent back reed should be used1 which will allow for #d face1 #d gut1 #b back and #b binders in each dent1 which together with the back roll separation of the different warps makes it convenient to handle the various warp sections and keep the threads straight and confined to the limitations of space available4 ,illustration3 ,take-,up ,giving ,long-,sided ,cloth ,,method ,,of ,,reeding ,the front reed used is a #dj dent1 with one cord or seven threads to each dent4 ,in some mills1 however1 great advantage has been found in using a #bf dent front reed1 drawing #aj threads in one dent and #aa in the next1 splitting between face and back1 which makes the stock work much easier1 and relatively increases the output4 ,any tendency to 8rowing0 caused by the dents in this coarser reed are completely hidden in the bleaching process4 ,illustration3 ,harness ,draft and ,weave for ,van ,heusen ,collar ,the folding line between the neck band and the outer fold of the collar is made by leaving out the binder and gut threads in four cords at the desired point1 only retaining the face and back threads4 ,the position of the folding line may be varied in each of the three standard widths to meet the requirements of the manufacturer and according to the style of the collar desired4 ,there are #ajd picks per inch1 counting at the folded line1 as there are more on the short side and less on the long side4 ,high grade #fj_/b ,c4 ,p4 yarn is used throughout4 ,the goods are woven in the gray and bleached afterwards4 ,knitted ,narrow ,fabrics ,by ,,william ,,davis1 ,m4,a4 ,branch of the ,knitting ,industry ,that ,presents ,interesting ,features--,yarn ,testing--,manufacture of ,cleaners and ,meat ,bags1 ,coverings for ,wires and ,cables1 ,fancy ,stitch and ,colored ,effects for ,trimmings--,use of ,core ,thread to ,give ,strength ,knitting machine builders are remarkable for the new inventions and adaptations they are constantly bringing out on their machines4 ,several important concerns in this line have recently been active in producing types to deal with the large trade now being done in narrow fabrics for various purposes4 ,the ordinary circular knitting machine of small diameter has long been recognized as a suitable means of making trials of new yarns to judge how closely they match the original sample1 because in knitting there is not the necessity of elaborate warp preparation and loom mounting4 ,the machine generally employed for this purpose is an ordinary type of stocking knitter containing #if or #aab needles4 ,if the machine is only to be employed as a sampling machine it is by no means necessary to have a full stocking machine1 because in this work it is never necessary to use the ribber or dial which is always supplied4 ,the work of sampling to shade is done in most weaving or spinning factories and a narrow width plain stitch knitting machine is satisfactory for the purpose4 ,it is usually quite suitable to work the machine by hand1 owing to the small lengths required and the frequent changes necessary when testing different colors and qualities4 ,the latch needle machine is much better for this purpose than the bearded needle frame owing to the simplicity of loop formation and also owing to the facility with which small or thick yarns can be made to give good work on the machine with suitable adjustment of the stitch tensions4 ,it is also used as a means of producing samples of color1 as the various colors can be introduced rapidly one after the other on this machine4 ,this type of frame with the needles stationary1 and revolving cams and thread guide has from the first been recognized as the best adapted for knitting gas mantles from ramie4 ,the yarn is working in long lengths on a narrow width circular knitting machine using the latch needle and this fabric is afterwards cut into lengths according to the mantles being produced4 ,mantles of different sizes can be obtained by using different diameters of machines as supplied by machine builders for this purpose4 ,in most hardware establishments and department stores one sees woven metal material knitted into fabric on such machines1 and intended to be used for cleaning pots and pans in household work4 ,the wire has a sharp edge so as to grip the matter to be removed4 ,knitting the metal material into looped form enables the product to do its work with the greatest efficiency4 ,another side line of the knitting industry is the production of what are known as meat bags1 with which the carcasses of frozen and ordinary mutton and beef are covered prior to transport4 ,these bags are usually made on circular knitting machines of large diameter using the latch needle1 and as the size of the yarn is fine compared to the set of the needles a gauze-like character is obtained which allows free circulation of air as well as affording a clean method of handling the meat and protecting it in the course of transport on ship1 train and truck4 ,,plain ,,knitted ,,tube ,examples are given by the accompanying illustrations of a few products of the narrow fabric branch of the trade4 ,it will be evident at once what an interesting field of application is afforded by this division of the knitting industry4 ,fig4 #a shows a plain knitted fabric worked in circular form on a knitting machine using the latch needle in which we have #dj needles in the circumference1 so that in this tube1 front and back1 are #dj stitches shown here in flat form4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #a ,fig4 #b ,illustration3 ,fig4 #c ,fig4 #d ,it is evident that this tubing can be used for the purpose of covering wires and cables which slide inside the fabric4 ,it has more elasticity than woven fabric of similar form and is generally produced in a more simple and direct manner4 ,it should be pointed out1 however1 that this fabric is susceptible to being torn and if it breaks at any point a little further strain will cause it to unravel in a rapid manner4 ,thus it is clear that it cannot be used by itself to any great extent in cases where great strain or pull will be applied to it4 ,made in suitable materials1 there is nothing to hinder this tube from serving as lamp wicks4 ,,introduction ,,of ,,fancy ,,stitch ,fig4 #b shows the same fabric with a fancy stitch introduced at one needle on the cylinder of the knitting machine to produce what is known as 8tuck0 work4 ,in this work the needle in question is made to hold its thread for one course without knocking over its loop1 and takes a second thread on the next course so that two threads are knocked over together1 giving rise to the effect shown in the middle of the illustration4 ,this effect is produced by inserting a needle at this point with a latch which is longer than the other needle latches of the machine1 with the result that it does not knock over its stitches with the ordinary needles unless it receives a specially deep draw down1 which it gets every second course4 ,all the stitches made on this needle are double as compared with the single stitches in the rest of the tube4 ,in a machine with #bj needles in the circumference1 one needle would be inserted with this extra long latch to give a tuck stitch right down the tube4 ,as regards the position of the fabric at which the tuck effect is made to show1 this is entirely a matter of arrangement in folding the tube4 ,according to the line of folding the tuck effect can be made to appear in the middle or at the side4 ,further examples of this style of narrow fabric are given in ,figs4 #c and #d1 made on the same diameter of machine4 ,in ,fig4 #c the tuck stitch is made both front and back of the tape2 that is1 a long latch needle is inserted in the cylinder every tenth needle so that there are two in the circumference in place of the single line in ,fig4 #b4 ,in ,fig4 #c the second vertical line of tucking stitches appears on the back of the fabric directly under the line shown on the face1 and this has the effect of making the tuck stitch more pronounced4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #e ,fig4 #f ,illustration3 ,fig4 #g ,fig4 #h ,in ,fig4 #d it will be recognized that this idea is further developed by having two vertical rows of tuck stitches showing on the face of the tube1 and these are supplemented by two others placed directly under them on the other side of the fabric1 thus giving a total of four long latch needles in the circumference of the machine4 ,to give the proper effect1 the tube as obtained from the machine has to be carefully pressed so as to show the fancy effect at the correct place1 for if the tube gets out of alignment at any point1 this will affect the form of the pattern4 ,,use ,,for ,,trimmings ,in the knitting industry such pieces of tubing folded double are found extremely useful in trimming garments1 particularly in the circular or cut trade1 where so much depends on having articles tastefully ornamented at a moderate cost4 ,at present the manufacturer has often to buy these touches of trimmings from the outside4 ,the great advantage of doing the work on his own premises and on his own machines is that he can install such a machine at a very moderate cost and place among his ordinary knitting machines at little or no extra cost for mechanics4 ,,patterns ,,with ,,colored ,,yarns ,several other examples are given herewith of the application of this principle of the latch needle knitting machine for tubular fabrics suitable for narrow tapes or ribbons4 ,fig4 #e illustrates a fabric produced on a machine of still narrower dimensions1 having only #ab needles in the circumference of the machine4 ,in this case the pattern effect is introduced by having several feeds of thread in the circumference2 three different colors are employed and introduced in the order of one white1 one black1 and one tan all the way down the fabric1 thus giving rise to a style of pattern which is very suitable for many purposes of the knitting manufacturer1 particularly of outer garments4 ,there are three yarn feeds round the circumference of this machine and every revolution of the machine creates three courses in the three colors named4 ,it will be noted that this gives rise to a color effect showing at a decided angle to the right1 in place of being exactly horizontal1 as would be approximately the case in a machine of larger diameter4 ,this is one of the defects of all machines of this character where several feeds are used4 ,they create a decidedly spiral tendency and the color effects appear at an angle4 ,in many cases this is no disadvantage1 but rather the reverse1 as it takes away the stiffness of the color scheme and produces attractive effects in twill fashion similar to what can only be created in woven goods by the aid of the corkscrew weave and an elaborate setting of the cloth4 ,fabrics of the character shown in ,fig4 #e are very useful for edging parts of knitting coats1 jumpers or vestings1 these edgings giving a suitable finish for the edges of the garment4 ,in addition to the color feature1 these bands are often made in a tight tension so as to give a rigid cloth which will strengthen certain parts at which extra pull is applied1 enabling the garment to retain its shape4 ,,knitted ,,cords ,fig4 #f gives a view of a narrow fabric made on a circular latch needle knitting machine with only six needles in the cylinder4 ,there are two feeds1 one supplying blue yarn to the needles and the other supplying green1 the pattern being alternate courses of green and blue4 ,the material is artificial silk and the cord1 for it is nothing more1 is employed for threading through certain garments which have a kind of open trimming through the spaces of which this cord is passed to complete the drawing together of the part4 ,very often these drawing together cords are provided with tassels at their extreme ends to afford a further ornamental feature4 ,fig4 #g gives another variation of this pattern produced on the same machine where the courses alternate with each other in red and green4 ,this sample shows the facility with which new color blends can be produced to match any color of ground garment4 ,one bobbin is simply replaced with another on the machine1 or both may be changed4 ,in this pattern again a decided tendency is shown for the effect to run in the direction of the right owing to the tendency to a spiral effect4 ,,use ,,of ,,core ,,thread ,in some cases the cord made of the knitted fabric itself is too elastic and lacks the tensile strength required for certain purposes4 ,in this event it is an easy matter to arrange that a center core thread be run into the machine as the fabric is being knitted4 ,the core thread is made of some strong1 non-elastic material and is arranged on a bobbin above the machine4 ,that material is drawn off its bobbin and passes down the center of the circle of needles so that it is completely covered by the knitted fabric4 ,its use considerably strengthens the cord and makes it suitable for certain purposes for which it otherwise would not be satisfactory4 ,fig4 #h shows a sample of an actual cord made on the same type of machine where we have only four needles in the cylinder1 these being worked with two yarn feeds1 one black and one white1 giving a one and one black and white effect in the cord4 ,for this style it is necessary to have a core thread of material which passes into the center of the tube as the knitting proceeds4 ,this makes the cord bulk larger and causes it to be quite round in effect4 ,the smallest cord of this character is produced from one latch needle by an arrangement such as is supplied with the ,union ,special sewing machine1 where the latch needle works by power1 enters its loop and takes the new thread1 which it draws through the old one1 thus making an endless chain of loops in a very rapid manner4 ,these strings are used as the ground work of the ornamental edgings produced on this machine4 ,,the ,,abbott ,,press1 ,,new ,,york