,,winchester ,,by ,,the ,,same ,,author ,,and ,,artist ,,as 8,,winchester0 ,,hampshire ,,containing #ge ,,full-,,page ,,illustrations ,,in ,,colour ,,some ,,press ,,opinions 8,author and artist have worthily combined their talent on a worthy piece of ,england40--,daily ,graphic4 8,rarely1 if ever1 have author and artist collaborated with such a happy result40--,evening ,standard4 ,a4 ,,and ,c4 ,,black1 #d ,,soho ,,square1 ,,london1 ,w4 ,,agents ,,america ,,the ,,macmillan ,,company #fd #ff ,,fifth ,,avenue1 ,,new ,,york ,,australasia ,,the ,,oxford ,,university ,,press #bje ,,flinders ,,lane1 ,,melbourne ,,canada ,,the ,,macmillan ,,company ,,of ,,canada1 ,,ltd4 #bg ,,richmond ,,street ,,west1 ,,toronto ,,india ,,macmillan ,,company1 ,,ltd4 ,,macmillan ,,building1 ,,bombay #cji ,,bow ,,bazaar ,,street1 ,,calcutta ,illustration3 ,,tower ,,of ,,the ,,college ,,chapel1 ,,winchester ,the graceful pinnacles of #8,two ,wardens ,tower1' as the tower of ,college ,chapel is called1 forms a picturesque feature in all views of the southeastern quarter of the city4 ,originally built by ,warden ,thurburn in #adhh1 it was rebuilt in #ahfc1 in memory of two well-known later wardens1 ,barter1 ,warden of ,winchester1 and ,williams1 ,warden of ,new4 ,the view is taken from near ,wharf ,bridge4 ,,winchester ,,painted ,,by ,,wilfrid ,,ball1 ,r4,e4 ,,described ,,by ,,rev4 ,,telford ,,varley1 ,m4,a41 ,b4,sc4 ,illustration3 colophon ,,london ,,adam ,,and ,,charles ,,black #aiaj ,preface ,the following volume treats in somewhat fuller detail the ,winchester sections of the larger work on ,hampshire published last year under similar auspices4 ,where much of the ground traversed is identical much has been necessarily repeated1 and a considerable portion of what follows is little more than an amplification of what has been already dealt with in the earlier volume4 ,the present work in no way aims at being a history1 though much of it is cast into a historical mould4 ,still less is it a guide-book4 ,its aim has been selective1 and it makes no pretence to completeness4 ,in following out some of the numerous avenues of ,winchester interest1 which seem to open out continually in fresh and unsuspected directions as soon as one commences to wander through her confines1 many have received but a cursory examination1 and many more have been entirely ignored4 ,the author can only hope his readers will be able to accompany him with pleasurable interest along those which inclination and circumstance have led him to explore4 ,the authorities consulted have been numerous1 and from the following published sources of information1 as well as many others1 valuable information has been obtained3-- ,bede1 ,the ,english ,chronicle1 ,the ,winton ,domesday1 ,the ,liber de ,hyda1 ,rudborne's ,major ,historia ,wintoniae1 various of the ,annales ,monastici1 the valuable historical documents published some time back by the ,hampshire ,record ,society1 ,milner's ,history1 ,mr4 ,kirby's and ,mr4 ,leach's volumes on ,winchester ,college1 ,dean ,kitchin's ,winchester in the ,historic ,towns ,series1 and ,adams's ,wykehamica4 ,the author regrets that1 through a lapsus calami1 the title of ,bramston and ,leroy's ,historic ,winchester was misapplied in the ,hampshire volume to ,dr4 ,kitchin's book4 ,for this error he here apologises4 ,finally1 the author wishes here to express his thanks to many friends who in various ways have assisted him in what has been to him a most pleasant task1 viz41 that of serving in some degree1 though but inadequately1 as chronicler to his adopted city4 ,,the ,,author4 ,,winchester1 ,june #aiaj4 ,contents ,,page ,,chapter ,i #8,,wyngester1 ,,that ,,joly ,,cit' #a ,,chapter ,,ii ,,early ,,days #aj ,,chapter ,,iii ,,the ,,roman ,,occupation #ae ,,chapter ,,iv ,,saxon ,,winchester #bj ,,chapter ,v ,,the ,,capital ,,of ,,england #bf ,,chapter ,,vi ,,alfred #cd ,,chapter ,,vii ,,alfred',s ,,death ,,and ,,sixty ,,years ,,after #dc ,,chapter ,,viii ,,thelwold1 ,,saint ,,and ,,bishop #di ,,chapter ,,ix ,,the ,,capital ,,of ,,the ,,danish ,,empire #ei ,,chapter ,x ,,norman ,,winchester #gc ,,chapter ,,xi ,,later ,,norman ,,days #hg ,,chapter ,,xii ,a ,,great ,,bishop1 ,,henry ,,of ,,blois #ajj ,,chapter ,,xiii ,,angevin ,,and ,,plantagenet #aji ,,chapter ,,xiv ,,fourteenth ,,and ,,fifteenth ,,century ,,winchester #aag ,,chapter ,,xv ,,the ,,monastic ,,life #acj ,,chapter ,,xvi ,,the ,,cathedral #adf ,,chapter ,,xvii ,,the ,,college #aeh ,,chapter ,,xviii ,,wolvesey--,,st4 ,,cross--,,the ,,castle ,,hall--,,the ,,round ,,table #afh ,,chapter ,,xix ,,winchester ,,in ,,literature #aha ,,index #aig ,list of ,illustrations ,,facing ,,page #a4 ,tower of the ,college ,chapel1 ,winchester ,frontispiece #b4 ,st4 ,catherine's ,hill1 ,winchester #i #c4 ,shawford ,mill #af #d4 ,the ,weirs1 ,winchester #be #e4 ,hamble #cb #f4 ,at ,itchen ,abbas #da #g4 ,high ,street1 ,winchester #dh #h4 ,st4 ,peter's1 ,cheesehill1 ,winchester #eg #i4 ,church of ,st4 ,cross #fd #aj4 ,king's ,gate1 ,winchester #gc #aa4 ,martyr ,worthy #hj #ab4 ,watersplash at ,itchen ,stoke #hi #ac4 ,easton #if #ad4 ,the ,deanery1 ,winchester #aje #ae4 ,cheyney ,court and ,close ,gate1 ,winchester #aab #af4 ,brewhouse1 ,winchester ,college #aba #ag4 ,middle ,gate1 ,winchester ,college #abh #ah4 ,cloisters and ,fromond's ,chantry1 ,winchester ,college #acg #ai4 ,memorial ,gateway1 ,winchester ,college #add #bj4 ,second ,master's ,house1 ,winchester ,college #aec #ba4 ,tower of ,ambulatory1 ,hospital of ,st4 ,cross1 ,winchester #afj #bb4 ,church of ,st4 ,lawrence1 ,winchester #afi #bc4 ,hursley ,vicarage #agf #bd4 ,winchester from ,st4 ,giles's ,hill #ahd ,,winchester ,,chapter ,i #8,,wyngester1 ,,that ,,joly ,,cit' ,me lyketh ever1 the lenger the bet1 ,by ,wyngester1 that ,joly cit4 ,the ton is god and wel y-set1 ,the folk is comely on to see2 ,the aier is god both inne and oute1 ,the cit stent under an hille2 ,the rivers renneth all aboute1 ,the ton is rueld upon skille4 ,benedicamus ,domino1 ,alleluia1 ,alleluia4 ,fifteenth-century verses1 ,,de ,,walden ,,mss4 ,the magic of the city--whence comes it8 ,every people1 every age has felt it1 this mysterious sense of personality1 this deep1 alluring spell which age after age1 nation after nation1 has woven round the city of its dreams4 ,rome1 ,naples1 ,damascus1 ,mecca1 ,seville1 each of these has been and still is a name to conjure with1 while the long pent-up fervour of national feeling with which the ,hebrew of old time invested the thought of ,salem1 the ,city of ,peace1 has from its very intensity and sincerity established it in the eyes of all ,christendom as the permanent type of that ,new ,jerusalem1 the ,heavenly ,city1 the centre of all divine influence and of every divine appeal4 ,and here in ,england1 dull1 matter-of-fact1 money-grubbing ,england1 have we not too1 under our leaden skies1 cities also not unworthy of a claim on our regard--cities which possess the same picturesque and appealing elements which have1 in people of warmer and more emotional type1 evoked such feelings of romantic devotion1 of national pride1 and the rich glow of enthusiastic attachment8 ,true1 such feelings express themselves here in less exuberant and conscious manner1 but they exist1 and have existed all through our history1 and the old fifteenth-century singer quoted above1 whose quaintly expressive verses sum up so happily even for us of modern time the attractions of the delightful old mediaeval city which is our common theme1 was doubtless one who felt this to the full4 #8,wyngester1 that ,joly cit1' that is his keynote--a note at once sincere but restrained4 ,he is no pilgrim1 rapt in enthusiastic devotion1 singing of urbs caelestis1 urbs beata1 as he approaches the city of his passionate desire2 but a plain1 sober-minded citizen1 who sees in the town which shelters him a #8,joly cit' of attractive aspect and pleasantly seated1 surrounded by the mingled delights of hill and stream2 and1 moreover1 one #8rueld upon skille1' as becomes the mother of municipalities4 ,and to lovers of ,winchester--and who that knows it is not of these8--it must ever be a pleasant task to follow out in detail the themes suggested by our mediaeval singer--to enjoy one by one those attractive features which endear it still to us1 as it did to him4 ,to clamber up the breezy heights which gird it round1 for the sake of the #8aier'--that air which1 as the poet ,keats himself remarked1 is alone worth 8,sixpence a pint02 to trace the windings of the #8rivers renning all aboute'--both within its confines and beyond2 to linger in its streets and catch the echoes of its wonderful past1 with even more appreciation than our fifteenth-century poet was capable of feeling4 ,for our singer1 sincerely appreciative as he was1 had one sense lacking--the sense of history4 ,the present only appealed to him2 but to us1 as we thread its quaintly-inconvenient1 narrow streets1 its passages and gateways1 it is something more than merely a #8,joly cit1' a city of comfort and good rule2 it is a city of dreams as well1 a city haunted with the sense of a mighty past1 a living testimony alike to the permanence of our national institutions and to the dignity of the associations to which they make appeal4 ,winchester1 then1 is a city with an atmosphere--an atmosphere of the reality and range of historic things1 through which the gazing eye can peer1 mile after mile as it were1 till it loses itself in a vaguely distant and indistinct horizon1 where the mists of myth and legend blur the outline and mingle inextricably together fact and fancy1 record and surmise4 ,for in ,winchester antique tradition and historic association are not a mere adjunct or picturesque accident3 they are the keynote of its very existence4 ,in ,winchester we stand on the threshold of national history2 here we may1 as it were1 study history in situ1 as perhaps we can study it nowhere else in the land--in the soil beneath our feet1 in its stones1 its institutions1 its quaint survivals of early or mediaeval1 ,tudor or ,stuart days4 ,where else but in ,winchester can we meet with so many picturesque reminders of an ancient feudal past1--reminders which have survived not because they are merely picturesque1 but simply because here they have not outlived their usefulness or natural appropriateness8 ,the ,cathedral bedesmen1 the brethren of ,st4 ,cross1 the scholars of #8,sainte ,marie ,college1' the almsmen of ,beaufort's ,order of ,noble ,poverty1 the brethren of ,christe's ,hospitall1 the masters of the ,college1 and the college queristers also1 the ecclesiastical dignitaries of the diocese with their quaintly uncomfortable attire1--each and all of these wear their distinctive garb as a matter of course1 just as centuries ago every one wore the garb distinctive of his rank or occupation4 ,anywhere else one of these might excite remark3 here they pass unnoticed4 ,they are part of the place1 part of the spirit of the past1 which1 dead elsewhere1 here survives in vigour and undiminished vitality4 ,here was the cradle of ,saxon rule and ,saxon civilization2 here also the cradle of national historical record4 ,here ,saxon ,alfred ruled and prayed and wrought2 here ,danish ,cnut took the golden crown from his brow and laid it in token of humility upon the ,holy ,altar2 here ,norman ,william wore his crown yearly at ,easter-tide2 here ,curfew first was pealed1 and here ever since it has continued to peal2 here ,rufus was buried1 8many looking on and few grieving02 here ,henry ,i4 ruled and earned the title of the #8,lion of ,justice'2 here ,matilda fought with ,stephen in the dark days of civil warfare2 here ,john received the papal absolution1 having sunk the ,english crown to a lower depth than any other sovereign either would or could have done2 here ,henry ,,iii4 was born1 and here he held wild revel2 here later on was founded the great college of ,william of ,wykeham1 whose motto--8,manners makyth man0--has served as an inspiration for generations of public school boys for over #ejj years2 here ,henry ,,viii4 welcomed and fted the puissant ,emperor and second ,charlemagne1 ,charles ,v42 here his daughter ,mary was married to a ,spanish prince2 here ,james ,i4 kept his ,court1 and here ,raleigh received his shameful condemnation and sentence2 here1 with alternate fortune1 ,cavalier and ,roundhead strove together1 till ,cromwell himself captured its citadel and razed its fortifications to the ground2 here ,charles ,,ii4 repeatedly kept his ,court2 here he presented the ,corporation with his own portrait1 and it may even be1 left the citizens to pay for the gift--for the ,merry ,monarch was often forgetful1 and always short of money2 here was perpetrated the most infamous1 perhaps1 of all the crimes of the terrible ,bloody ,assize1 the judicial murder of ,dame ,alice ,lisle for an act of natural humanity2 here died and here was laid to rest that most charming and natural of women novelists1 the bright and vivacious ,jane ,austen4 ,yes1 if a poet could do for ,winchester what ,longfellow did for ,bruges1 and could conjure up the scenes of the past and the personages whose memories still linger here1 what a rare series of absorbing pictures1 what a medley of historic personalities1 what a wealth of varied types should we see embodied before our eyes6 ,rude ,belgic tribesmen of pre-,roman days1 ,roman legionaries1 rough1 wild ,berserkers and ,danish vikings1 ,saxon thegns and ,norman knights1 abbots and priors1 merchants and gildsmen1 friars and pilgrims1--these and many more would contend for our notice1 mingled with kings and queens1 prelates and chancellors1 bishops and cardinals4 ,if historical memories can sanctify any spot in the realm1 surely ,winchester must be sacred soil4 ,to separate ,winchester from the history which is enshrined within her is a thing impossible and unthinkable4 ,it is in the light of her historic past alone that ,winchester can be rightly viewed2 and attractive and fair as are her buildings and her natural surroundings1 it is only in their historical setting that they can be adequately appreciated4 ,let us1 before we set foot within any of her streets1 endeavour to get some general mental picture of the city in which so many associations are centred and enshrined2 let us take our stand on the bold hill which dominates the city towards the east1 ,st4 ,giles's ,hill4 ,had we mounted up here on the #ast of ,september--the feast of ,st4 ,egidius--some six or seven centuries ago1 it would have been a busy and motley throng that we should have had to elbow our way through4 ,englishmen from every county1 foreigners from every land--,frenchmen1 ,germans1 ,poles1 and ,jews--all mingled together in hopeless confusion4 ,a city in miniature--street after street of wooden booths1 all enclosed in a wooden wall or palisade--would meet the eye4 ,and the inhabitants6 ,what varied types should we see--merchants and chapmen1 citizens and countrymen1 pedlars and ballad-mongers1 all eager and excited1 bargaining1 jesting1 quarrelling--a babel of tongues1 peoples1 and languages2 while here and there a bailiff or officer wearing a bishop's mitre figured on his livery passes along and scrutinizes the merchandise4 ,no friendly reception does he meet with1 for this is the ,great ,fair held in honour of ,st4 ,giles1 where merchants from all parts of ,europe congregate to buy the wool for which the south of ,england is so famous1 and during the sixteen days that the fair lasts no merchant or shopman in ,winchester1 or ten miles round1 may buy or sell except within the fair itself1 and whoever is a welcome and popular figure1 it is not the ,lord ,bishop of ,winchester nor the bishop's bailiff1 for all merchandise must first pay toll--and heavy toll--for the bishop's exclusive benefit1 before it may pass within the barriers1 and be exposed for sale4 ,but to-day it will be the city1 lying at our feet to the westward1 which will interest us1 and there will be nothing on the hill to turn our attention from it as we note its chief points one by one4 ,it is a beautiful picture of mingled red and grey that lies before us4 ,the ,cathedral--a mass of grey stone--here presents its most interesting aspect to us3 a mass of grey stone set with pinnacles and flying buttresses and heavy square tower4 ,to its left lies the ,college1 hidden partly behind the trees of the ,close and the ,deanery garden1 the light1 graceful #8,two ,wardens' tower of its chapel contrasting strikingly with the solid tower of the ,cathedral--a noticeable and attractive object4 ,almost between the two lies a green patch of meadow1 with grey walls and ruins round it4 ,this is ,wolvesey1 with its memories of ,alfred and the ,english ,chronicle4 ,beyond ,wolvesey and the ,college we shall see ,st4 ,cross1 like the ,cathedral in outward form1 but a cathedral in miniature4 ,close at our feet in the foreground lie the ,guildhall1 with its clock1 and the statue of the great ,alfred1 and the line of the ,high ,street can be clearly followed till it terminates with the ,west ,gate at its far extremity4 ,on either side of the city are seen the many channels of the river ,itchen--here and there rises the tower or spire of one of the numerous city churches--and far away on the high ground to the left appears a clump of trees which1 under the name of #8,oliver's ,battery1' recalls the thought of the grim ,lord ,protector to us4 ,it is a pleasant and1 indeed1 poetic picture at any period of the year1 and perhaps most poetic on an afternoon in late autumn1 when the ,illustration3 ,,st4 ,,catherine',s ,,hill1 ,,winchester ,the fine bold chalk hill which dominates the river valley to the ,south of ,winchester1 has memories of early ,celtic days1 of ,cnut1 and of the ancien rgime at ,winchester ,college4 ,round its summit is the #8ring' of the great refuge camp of pr-,roman days which it is estimated required some #cjjj people to defend it4 ,cnut made a grant of #8,hille' and other lands to the old minster4 ,on the summit there was once a pilgrimage chapel dedicated to ,st4 ,catherine4 ,st4 ,catherine's ,hill was formerly the playing area for ,college boys on #8remedies' or holidays1 and the curious #8mismaze' cut on its summit is supposed to have been their handiwork4 light smoke from the houses and the thin mists from the river have mingled together to weave a silvery grey network1 through which the details of the city seem1 as it were1 to filter slowly and dreamily--a harmony of haze and mist1 to which the imagination can most sympathetically attune itself1 a vague dreamland scene which fancy seems almost naturally to repeople with the shadows of the past4 ,,chapter ,,ii ,,early ,,days ,et penitus toto orbe divisos ,britannos4 ,antiquity and long-continued vitality such as have fallen to ,winchester--for to go back to its early humble beginnings takes us back very far indeed--lead us naturally to look for causes1 and prompt the questions1 ,why1 in the first instance1 did a human community settle here at all8 ,what through so many alternations of human vicissitude and political circumstance has operated to maintain these intact8 ,tempus edax rerum--,time1 the devourer of constituted things1 is written not so much on its stones1 as in its stones1 yet ,winchester remains ,winchester still4 ,for1 be it noted1 there is nothing in the nature of things which gives to cities and communities any prescriptive claim or assurance of permanence4 ,we have not1 indeed1 to travel far from ,winchester to find instructive instances1 to the very contrary1 among its earliest neighbours and contemporaries4 ,silchester1 ,sarum1 ,portchester1 its early ,british contemporaries1 which once flourished even as ,winchester1 have long since sunk1 the last named into inanition1 the two former into dissolution so complete that no trace now remains1 save what little the ploughshare or the antiquary may from time to time unearth2 and that little would probably1 but for the worms' unceasing activity1 have long since perished beyond recall4 ,for with cities1 as with the animal world1 the secret of continued vigour is the secret of continued adaptation to environment2 towns and cities1 like other organized existences1 are just as old as the arteries which feed them1 and as long as function is efficiently performed1 so long will there be health to perform it4 ,and yet as years go1 ,winchester is old1--how old none can say4 ,ancient ,neolithic interments on ,st4 ,giles's ,hill1 old ,celtic barrows on ,morne 7,magdalen7 ,hill behind1 carry us back far indeed beyond the days of permanent settlement1 and her continuous existence goes back far beyond the days of any written historical record1 yet all these years she has retained her identity and her vigour unimpaired4 ,what physical causes have contributed to this we shall perhaps be better able to appreciate if we quit ,st4 ,giles's ,hill and clamber up to the top of ,st4 ,catherine's ,hill1 the bold chalk hill which dominates the view southward from the city4 ,an interesting hill it is1 with modern associations which we will not stop to consider now1 but turn our thoughts to the view before us4 ,below us is a flat-bottomed valley1 a mile or two across1 with the numerous winding channels of the river intersecting the water meadows at our feet4 ,to our north lies the city1 seen from this point to excellent advantage1 occupying the flat of the valley1 and creeping up the hill slopes on either side1 while far away in the distance the chalk upland seems to roll away1 ridge succeeding ridge1 till all detail is lost in distance4 ,two thousand years or more ago1 the country which we are now gazing over would have borne a fundamentally different character1 though its superficial aspect1 viewed from this point1 might not1 apart from signs of human agency1 have been so very dissimilar4 ,for at that time practically the whole of the south of ,england1 through all the lower levels1 was a wild stretch of brake and forest all but impenetrable1 the haunt of wolf and wild boar1 of beaver and badger1 alternating at the lowest points with swamps and morasses1 which formed the beds of the valleys1 and either fringed the edges of the streams or mingled composedly with them4 ,this was the great ,weald ,forest1 of which a few detached patches still remain--a tangled sea of green1 beneath which all lay submerged save the chalk heights1 the ,north and ,south ,downs1 ,salisbury ,plain1 and the mid ,hampshire plateau over which we are now looking4 ,at one spot1 and practically one spot only1 was this forest barrier broken1 and that was in mid ,hampshire1 where the great estuary of ,southampton ,water and the ,vale of ,itchen pierced it like a wedge1 and gave fairly free access from the coast to the rich midland counties to the north4 ,and so up or by this natural highway the stream of immigration from the south flowed4 ,celtic peoples from the north of ,europe1 ,goidels1 ,brythons1 ,belgans1--all in turn came this way1 and here it was1 where the ,vale of ,itchen narrowed1 that a settled community began to form--a ganglionic point1 as all such communities are1 along the nervous thread of intercourse and communication4 ,down then in the valley at our feet1 on the actual ground where our city now stands1 amid the morasses wherein peat abounded1 and where even now it may still be found1 was the first settlement or village of ,winchester--a collection of rude hovels1 of wattle-work covered with mud1 and stockaded with a stout timber palisading as additional protection1 while the hill-top1 where we now stand1 was converted into a fortress or refuge-camp1 to all appearance impregnable1 so long as heart and hand still existed to defend it4 ,of the village below all trace has long vanished1 but the lines of the earthwork round the hill remain still broadly scarped out1 and seemingly imperishable4 ,no mean achievement this--this great rampart over #ajjj yards in circuit1 and still #be feet or more in height in places2 and when the feebleness of the resources with which those early ,celtic sappers and miners worked is borne in mind1 the unserviceable pick of deer antler1 the absence of means of transport1 we wonder more and more at the magnitude of the achievement which has had such permanent result4 ,they dreamt not of a perishable home1 who thus could build1 and to-day1 though two1 perhaps three1 thousand years have passed since it first gave security to the primitive ,winchester settlement below1 the great camp still remains1 keeping watch over the modern city like a sentinel forgotten1 but still under orders1 whom no change of guard has relieved4 ,one other inheritance1 besides these piled-up ramparts1 these first ,winchester burghers have left us1 and that is a name4 ,cr ,gwent1 the ,celtic name1 first ,romanized into ,venta ,belgarum1 passed in ,saxon days into ,vintan-ceastir1 or ,venta the fortified1 and so on by a natural transition has become the ,winchester of to-day4 ,what the name means is a venerable antiquarian puzzle1 on which we prefer to hazard no opinion1 nor indeed does it greatly matter4 ,the name1 like the city itself1 is venerable in antiquity1 and its origin1 like that of the city itself1 is lost in the mists of the past4 ,and as we look round about us from this hill-top1 and direct our eye up and down this valley1 we begin to realize what it is that has made ,winchester what it has been in the past1 and what it is now3 not merely the accident of circumstance1 the flotsam and jetsam of human migratory tribes1 floated fortuitously hither on the tidal waters of our southern estuaries and here casually deposited1 but a natural centre in a great continuous stream of humanity1 in which ,celt and ,belgan1 ,roman1 ,saxon1 ,dane1 and ,norman have all pushed forward1 each eager to bear his part in the building of that great national polity1 the ,england of to-day4 ,,chapter ,,iii ,,the ,,roman ,,occupation ,foursquare to all the winds4 ,the part played by physical causes1 outlined above1 is illustrated by the successive stages in the ,roman occupation4 ,the two first invasions by ,julius ,caesar were little more than desultory raids2 the next1 under ,aulus ,plautius and ,vespasian in ,a4,d4 #dc1 had important and permanent results4 ,pevensey 7,anderida71 ,portchester 7,portus ,magnus71 and ,southampton 7,clausentum7 were all occupied in turn2 up the ,itchen valley the invaders came1 and its strategic position made them choose ,venta ,belgarum as their military base in the south of ,england4 ,history is silent as to the actual occupation of ,venta1 but ,bede and others mention the occupation of the ,isle of ,wight1 and the silence of ,roman writers on this point merely makes it clear that little resistance was encountered here4 ,nor does ,roman literature give us any account of ,venta2 the only mention of it is in the ,antonine ,itineraries1 the great road-book of the ,roman ,empire1 dating probably from about #cbj ,a4,d42 but its importance in ,roman days is to be inferred from the remains the ,romans have left behind1 as well as from ,bede and other indirect evidence4 ,no ,roman structure1 except1 perhaps1 some part of the ancient wall still existing1 remains above ground now1 but the site of the city1 as marked out by the ,romans1 still remains clearly shown1 and the spade and pick-axe are continually bringing to light evidences of what ,winchester was like in ,roman days4 ,the ,roman city formed a rectangle aligned almost exactly with the four points of the compass4 ,intersecting it from north to south was the great highway leading to ,clausentum1 and another road1 practically corresponding to the present ,high ,street1 crossed this at right angles1 dividing the whole area of the city into four rectangular blocks or tesserae4 ,all round this area was a wall of stout masonry1 with gates at the four points where the two main highways pierced it2 upon the same lines were reared later the walls of the ,norman city1 and their general direction is clearly traceable now4 ,a walk along ,westgate ,lane1 ,north walls1 ,eastgate ,street1 the ,weirs 7where portions of the ancient wall may still be seen71 ,college ,street1 ,canon ,street1 and ,st4 ,james's ,lane1 would practically carry us round the circuit of the ,roman as it would of the later mediaeval city4 ,the temples of the gods occupied the south-eastern area where the ,cathedral now stands1 and a well in the ,cathedral crypt is pointed out to visitors as having ,illustration3 ,,shawford ,,mill ,shawford ,mill1 near ,shawford4 ,the river channels here are fringed in summer-time with mimulus1 yellow iris1 and forget-me-not1 and are delightful to ramble along4 been connected with heathen worship in ,roman times4 ,numerous pieces of tesselated pavement1 vases1 urns1 and votive objects generally1 articles of adornment1 for household use and the toilet1 are frequently found even still1 mingled with innumerable coins and relics of a military nature4 ,more important still are the ,roman roads which led from ,winchester1 the routes of which are still unmistakable1 and which remain the great enduring monument both of the ,roman occupation and of the ,roman civilizing instinct4 ,indeed1 the chief service the ,roman occupation did for ,winchester was to bring it into effective contact with the rest of the country4 ,the ,belgic tribesmen had no common organization or polity2 a number of scattered and incoherent units linked together merely by the accident of position1 and a more or less common racial descent1 they resembled one of the lower animal forms1 not possessing a common nerve centre1 but controlled by local ganglia and responding merely to local stimuli4 ,the ,roman genius was to link up the whole land into one united organism and to supply a nervous and arterial system regulated by central control4 ,law and ,order were the great lessons it taught the world1 and open and secure lines of communication were the necessary preliminary of the ,pax ,romana4 ,no succeeding age save our own has so fully recognized the value of good and effective road communication4 ,our modern roads and tracks very often merely follow routes first marked out by ,roman hands1 and the common occurrence of the title #8,high ,street1' generally applied to the leading thoroughfare of town or village1 is a constant reminder to us of the debt we owe to the ,romans4 ,radiating from ,venta ,belgarum were no less than five thoroughfares1 of which four were undoubtedly important arteries4 ,the first led to the sea1 to ,clausentum1 the port4 ,it followed the line of the existing ,southampton road as far as ,otterbourne1 and then straight on through ,stoneham 7the ad ,lapidem of ,bede7 to ,clausentum4 ,this road passed straight through the city from south to north1 and from the northern gate of the city it branched off into two1 one going north-east1 along the existing ,basingstoke road to ,silchester 7,calleva ,attrebatum71 the other north-west1 following the line of the existing ,andover road to ,cirencester 7,durocornovium74 ,both these roads can be still traced for a distance of a good many miles from ,winchester4 ,the fourth led directly west to ,sarum1 and can still be followed as a well-defined track all the way4 ,the fifth led to ,portchester 7,portus ,magnus7 over ,deacon ,hill1 and through ,morestead1 but with the exception of the first few miles all trace of it is now lost4 ,details of some of these roads as given in the ,antonine ,itinerary already mentioned are quoted below1 and the names of the stations and their distances apart are of more than usual interest1 particularly from the assistance they give us as regards identification of the ,roman sites4 ,londinium 7,london7 to ,pontes 7,staines71 mille passuum 7miles7 xxii ,pontes to ,calleva ,attrebatum 7,silchester7 xxii ,calleva to ,venta ,belgarum xxii ,venta to ,clausentum 7,southampton7 x ,clausentum to ,portus ,magnus 7,portchester7 x ,the ,roman routes are not comfortable to follow now1 particularly to the cyclist2 their course is invariably straight1 leading direct from point to point1 over hill and valley alike1 without regard to gradient or the lie of the land4 ,the appeal they make to the thoughtful imagination is distinct and striking4 ,direct and uncompromising1 they follow their course regardless of obstacles1 suggesting irresistibly the genius and energy of the imperious people who met difficulties only to subdue them4 ,primarily imperial in character1 if not always military1 few things conduced so much to the settlement and growth in civilization of the land4 ,commerce followed in the wake of security1 and the arts of war ministered thus as handmaid to those of peace4 ,,chapter ,,iv ,,saxon ,,winchester ,post tenebras1 lux ,the ,roman occupation lasted some #djj years1 after which ,winchester history becomes a blank1 and it is not the settlement and conquest of the next occupiers1 the ,gewissas or ,west ,sexe1 but their conversion to ,christianity which begins to dispel the historical just as it did the spiritual darkness of the period4 ,of these years1 could we but trust the romantic pages of ,geoffrey of ,monmouth1 who has preserved for us the legendary stories of the period as preserved in the early ,welsh tradition which he followed out1 we might have a complete and circumstantial history1 telling us of ,arthur and his ,knights1 of ,merlin1 and ,uther ,pendragon1 all focussed round our own ,hampshire country1 with ,winchester and ,silchester as the chief centres of action4 ,thus arose the mediaeval tradition connecting ,winchester with ,arthur and the ,knights of the ,round ,table--a tradition consolidated by the presence in the great ,hall of ,winchester of the curious relic which popular imagination has for hundreds of years identified with the actual ,round ,table round which that famous brotherhood feasted4 ,but of this more anon4 ,and attractive as are the speculations into which ,geoffrey of ,monmouth might lead us1 we must put him sternly by till some greater hand has winnowed the grain--for some grain his record undoubtedly possesses--from the chaff of credulity1 if not of deliberate invention4 ,and so for #bjj years our ,winchester history remains a blank1 till the ,saxon invader had in turn made his way hither1 by the same natural channel which ,celt and ,roman before him had followed1 and a kingdom of ,wessex had grown up1 rude and barbarous1 but firmly planted1 with the ,hame-tun 7,southampton7 as its first capital1 till1 with the growth of institutions1 the natural advantages of ,winchester made it in turn the centre of rule of the ,west ,saxon kingdom4 ,how ,jute and ,angle warred in turn with ,saxon and with one another3 how order was gradually evolved1 and ,christianity planted in ,britain by ,augustine and his band of monks1 we cannot here pursue in detail4 ,it is the coming of ,christianity to ,hampshire that immediately concerns us1 and with this a new chapter of great interest opens in our ,winchester story4 ,augustine had landed in ,kent in #eig1 and it is a noteworthy fact that while ,christianity had spread gradually thence to the ,east ,saxons1 to ,northumbria1 and to ,east ,anglia1 the stream of influence from ,canterbury had1 as it were1 flowed by and left ,wessex1 ,sussex1 and ,mercia entirely untouched1 so effectually had the natural barriers of the forest belt isolated the south-west of ,england from ,kent and even ,london2 and when at length ,christianity was brought to ,wessex it was by a special mission from ,italy and not from ,canterbury at all that the message came4 ,thus the founding of the ,church in ,wessex was an act independent entirely of ,augustinian influence2 not for many years after did the diocese acknowledge the supremacy of ,canterbury1 and when ,bishop ,henry of ,blois in the twelfth century was scheming to convert ,winchester into a separate province1 with himself as ,archbishop1 he had at least a historical basis on which to rest his claim4 ,sussex and ,mercia were evangelized later still1 and the ,isle of ,wight last of all4 ,there is indeed a local tradition which connects the name of ,augustine with ,winchester4 ,in ,avington ,park1 some five miles from the city1 a moribund oak still stands1 known as the ,gospel ,oak1 from the tradition that ,augustine himself preached the ,gospel under it4 ,but the tradition is entirely unsupported1 and certain it is that1 even if it were true1 the preaching had no permanent result4 ,the story of the conversion of the ,gewissas is told by ,bede1 and deserves to be translated in full4 ,at that time 7,a4,d4 #fcd1 ,english ,chronicle71 during the reign of ,king ,kynegils1 the race of the ,west ,saxons1 anciently termed ,gewissas1 received the faith of ,christ1 which was preached to them by ,birinus1 who had come to ,britain at the instance of ,pope ,honorius4 ,his intention had indeed been to proceed direct into the heart of the land of the ,angles1 where as yet no teacher had penetrated1 in order there to sow the seeds of the faith4 ,for which purpose1 and by direction of the ,pope himself1 he was consecrated ,bishop by ,asterius1 ,bishop of ,genoa4 ,but on his arrival in ,britain1 and coming in contact first of all with the ,gewissas1 he found them everywhere to be in a state of the grossest heathenism1 and so he considered it to be more profitable to preach the ,word to them1 rather than to go farther to seek a field to labour in4 ,the actual conversion of ,king ,kynegils took place the year after1 not at ,winchester1 but at ,dorchester1 near ,oxford1 on the river ,thames4 ,here ,birinus first placed his bishop's stool2 but ,bede's narrative directly implies that he visited ,winchester and dedicated a ,christian church there1 which only a bishop could do2 for he goes on to say that having erected and dedicated many churches1 and having by his pious ministrations called many unto the ,lord1 he departed himself to ,him and was buried in that city 7,dorchester71 and many years after1 by the instrumentality of ,bishop ,hdda 7bishop from #fgf to #gjc ,a4,d471 his body was translated thence to the city of ,venta and placed in the church of the ,blessed ,apostles ,peter and ,paul1 which he himself had dedicated4 ,we learn from the ,english ,chronicle that this ,christian church was erected not by ,kynegils1 who died in #fdc1 but by ,kenwalh or ,kenulphus his son4 ,here then we have the beginning in a sense of the ,winchester ,cathedral of to-day4 ,true1 successive and more glorious buildings have been erected on the same site1 but they have been but the successors in direct line of that primitive church of ,st4 ,peter and ,st4 ,paul1 rudely constructed1 and possibly roofed with thatch1 which ,birinus dedicates2 and the bones of its two founders1 father and son--for so we are entitled to regard them--are traditionally preserved in the ,cathedral to-day1 in two of the beautiful mortuary chests above the side screens of the choir4 ,what a link with the past do the inscriptions on these chests afford us1 for the facts are perfectly historical whatever the identity of the bones may be4 ,what imagination is there that cannot be deeply stirred in the very presence1 as it were1 of these two ,west ,saxon chiefs ,kynegils and ,kenwalh in the very church which ,birinus himself first erected1 and which was dedicated to the service of ,god by ,birinus himself8 ,nor was this all1 for in ,a4,d4 #fdh1 side by side with the church1 was erected a monastery1 the beginning of that religious house afterwards so famous as the ,priory of ,st4 ,swithun4 ,kynegils endowed it with an important grant of land--nothing less than all the ,king's land for several miles round ,winchester1 the first church endowment in ,wessex of which we have any authentic record2 an endowment all the more memorable as some portion of this land1 in and around the adjoining present parish of ,chilcomb1 remained after some twelve and a half centuries of consecutive church tenure in possession of the ,dean and ,chapter of ,winchester1 the successors in direct line of the religious community ,illustration3 ,,the ,,weirs1 ,,winchester ,the delightful balustraded stone bridge at the east end of the city replaces the very early bridge built by ,bishop ,swithun in ,king thelwulf's days4 ,the river rushes with a glorious swirl from out the mill just above the bridge1 and all along the ,weirs1 from mill to mill1 is of beautiful clearness and transparency4 ,the walk along #8the ,weirs' takes you between the river and the old city wall4 of ,st4 ,peter and ,st4 ,paul1 right up indeed to #ahii1 when it was taken over by the ,ecclesiastical ,commissioners4 ,the development of ,winchester during the early ,saxon period was steady and continuous4 ,this was marked in #fgf by the transference by ,bishop ,hdda of the ,bishop's stool from ,dorchester to ,winchester1 and from this point onwards ,winchester became the centre of the diocese as well as the capital of rule--a great diocese1 spreading far and wide over all the western country4 ,when ,danihel succeeded ,hdda--8,danihel the most revered bishop of the ,west ,saxons10 as his contemporary ,bede calls him--the diocese was divided1 and ,sherborne became the centre of the western1 as ,winchester was of the eastern see4 ,and so ,winchester history is brought down to the days of our first really contemporary historian1 the ,venerable ,bede4 ,the pages of ,bede are full of interest1 not only for the light they throw on the early history of ,saxon ,winchester1 but also because incidentally they establish its identity with the earlier township of ,roman and ,belgan days1 for1 as already noted1 he speaks of it as 8the city of ,venta1 which is called by the ,saxon people ,vintan-ceastir10 i4e4 ,venta the fortified1 implying that the ,roman defences round the city were still in existence1 and giving us the first mention in recorded history of that name of our city1 which by a simple and natural transition has become the name by which we know it still4 ,,chapter ,v ,,the ,,capital ,,of ,,england ,this royal throne of kings 444 ,fear'd by their breed and famous by their birth4 ,with the dawn of the ninth century came further development4 ,during the #bjj years or so of the so-called ,heptarchy1 a gradual and continuous movement of cohesion--social as well as political--had been in progress4 ,the strength of the ,anglo-,saxon was his courage1 a determination and persistence hardly distinguishable from obstinacy2 his weakness was his lack of imagination and his narrow political horizon4 ,he had never learnt to think nationally1 hardly even tribally1 far less imperially2 his thoughts centred themselves in the little hamlet or home settlement where all were kin at least1 if not kind4 ,he took the rustic murmur of his bourg ,for the great wave that echoed round the world4 ,and if he thought of his fellow-countrymen at all1 apart from family blood-feuds which called for vengeance1 it was probably in the exclusive spirit of ,jacques3 ,i do desire we may be better strangers4 ,these individualistic ideas were being slowly modified by existing conditions3 families had been grouped into tythings1 tythings into hundreds1 hundreds into shires2 the communal system of land tenure was merging into the manorial system1 and with the consolidation of individual kingdoms came a struggle for political supremacy and a movement towards national cohesion and unity4 ,it was the glory of a ,wessex king1 ruling in ,winchester1 to render this conception an accomplished fact4 ,it was at the ,court of the great ,charlemagne that ,egbert gained his political training and insight4 ,forced as a youth to flee from ,wessex1 he had been made welcome at the ,emperor's ,court1 and there in the centre of great world-movements1 in a ,court which numbered the most accomplished scholars of the time1 ,egbert began to #8see things4' ,when in #hjb ,a4,d4 he was called to ascend the throne of ,wessex1 ,charlemagne1 it is said1 gave him his own sword as a parting gift1 but something far more potent--political insight and training--was his already4 ,egbert set himself not only to consolidate his power in ,wessex1 but to weld the separate jangling factions into one under his personal supremacy4 ,the details of this long struggle are part of ,english history and do not concern us here3 suffice it that he asserted the supremacy of ,wessex over the whole land1 and it is in connection with him that the term ,england--,angleland--was first used4 ,in #hbi ,a4,d4 he held a council at ,winchester and proclaimed himself ,king of ,angleland4 ,winchester thus entered on a new phase1 as capital of ,england and not of ,wessex merely1 and its importance rapidly developed4 ,it was well for the land that internal union was thus in sight1 for with ,egbert's reign a new danger arose4 ,the migratory racial movements of which the coming to ,britain of ,jute1 ,angle1 and ,saxon was but a phase1 had never ceased1 but the conditions had altered4 ,in earlier unsettled days new-comers as they crossed the ,swan's ,bath had been usually welcomed as allies1 now when the land had become settled1 when wealth had accumulated in town and monastery1 the late-comers came in guise of a foreign foe4 ,egbert's reign saw a great revival of the descents of these ,danes or ,northmen as they were called4 ,wherever their #8aescas' or longships appeared panic seized the countryside4 ,murder1 outrage1 conflagration1 and ruin were the ordinary incidents of a ,viking raid4 ,men might well pray as they did1 8,from the fury of the ,northmen1 good ,lord1 deliver us10 for the invader knew nothing of mercy1 and his enterprise and desperate valour were only equalled by his fiendish delight in cruelty4 ,egbert struggled long1 and1 on the whole1 successfully1 against these foes4 ,in #hci he died1 after a reign of thirty-seven years1 and his bones are still preserved in a mortuary chest in the ,cathedral of his capital4 ,the words on the chest are3 ,hic rex ,egbertus pausat 7,here rests ,king ,egbert74 ,surely ,winchester1 which preserves the bones of him who first strove for and successfully realized the conception of national unity1 should be the ,mecca for all true devotees of ,great or ,greater ,britain4 ,like master1 like man1 and great kings have always had great subjects4 ,such a one was ,swithun1 ,bishop of ,winchester1 whose influence was all powerful during the next half century1 and was reflected in ,egbert's still greater grandson1 ,alfred4 ,swithun belongs essentially to ,winchester2 he laboured incessantly for the kingdom1 the diocese1 and the city1 and his shrine became for centuries afterwards the glory of its ,cathedral1 and the place of pilgrimage for thousands of pious feet4 ,he built churches2 he protected the ,cathedral and ,monastery by building a wall round it2 he built a bridge across the river1 outside the ,east ,gate of the city1 where the present graceful ,georgian structure stands4 ,as some old verses tell us3 ,seynt ,swithun his bishopricke to al goodnesse drough1 ,the towne also of ,winchester he amended enough1 ,for he lette the strong bruge without the towne arere1 ,and fond thereto lym and ston and the workmen that were there4 ,fate deals unkindly with some1 even at times with those who deserve most at her hands2 ,swithun is one of these4 ,a man of saintly life and far-reaching influence1 his humility and aversion to display were among his most striking personal characteristics4 ,with an instinctive and indeed prophetic dread of superstitious veneration being paid to his remains after death1 he gave orders that his body should be buried1 not within the ,cathedral1 where kings and saints reposed1 but in the open graveyard outside1 among the poor and the unnoticed4 ,but in vain3 with the monastic revival in ,king ,edgar's reign1 one hundred years later1 came the erection of a new and more splendid cathedral4 ,tales of miraculous occurrence began to be told of ,swithun's tomb1 and nothing would serve but the translation and enshrinement within the new ,cathedral of the saint1 so pre-eminently national1 whose bones had such potent virtue4 ,accordingly1 in solemn state1 in the presence of ,king ,edgar1 ,archbishop ,dunstan1 and ,bishop thelwold1 the pious translation was performed4 ,thus ,swithun1 never formally canonized1 became by universal consent dignified by the appellation ,saint1 and his mortal remains were for centuries the object of that superstitious worship which he himself had so earnestly dreaded4 ,later years obscured his reputation even more3 a tradition grew up that the saint had signified his displeasure at the translation of his body by sending a violent deluge of rain1 which for forty days rendered his exhumation impossible4 ,no foundation for this impossible story can be found in any contemporary account1 and several contemporary accounts both minute and circumstantial still exist2 but the tradition has passed into a proverb1 and so the name of ,swithun--his virtues1 his piety1 and his personality all forgotten--serves often merely to suggest the school-boy jingle3 ,st4 ,swithun's day1 if thou dost rain1 ,for forty days it will remain2 ,st4 ,swithun's day1 if thou be'est fair1 ,for forty days 'twill rain nae mair4 ,for the general public he has ceased to be a historic personality at all1 entitled to veneration and esteem1 and has come to be regarded as a mythical being1 malignant and capricious1 the patron saint of discomfort and of stormy skies4 ,the century which followed ,egbert's death was one of unremitting struggle against the ,danes--a struggle during which the newly formed kingdom seemed more than once in imminent danger of being submerged4 thelwulf and his sons faced the danger manfully1 through which1 at length1 ,alfred emerged victorious4 ,the history of ,winchester is in large measure merely the history of these movements4 thelwulf1 the priest-monarch1 the son of ,egbert1 who succeeded him in #hci1 will be best remembered in ,winchester as the father of ,alfred1 and by the charters1 particularly two of extreme interest1 which he executed here4 ,the more important of these is still extant1 and the original is preserved in the ,british ,museum4 ,this is often spoken of as the origin of tithes1 but erroneously1 as thelwulf's gift was a gift to the ,church not of produce1 but of one-tenth of his landed possessions4 ,the charter conferring this grant1 having been duly executed1 was solemnly laid on the high altar of the ,cathedral in the presence of ,swithun and the assembled ,witan4 ,the actual original of the second charter no longer exists1 but an ancient copy is preserved among the treasures of the ,cathedral ,library4 ,even as a copy it possesses extreme interest3 it bears the names of ,king ,adulfus 7thelwulf71 ,swithun1 and the ,king's four sons1 thelbald1 thelbert1 thelred1 and ,alfred--the two elder sons being described as #8,dux' 7,earldorman71 and each of the two younger1 mere boys at the time1 as #8,filius ,regis1' son of the ,king4 ,each name is attested1 according to ,saxon custom1 not by a seal1 but by a cross4 ,the date is #hed1 when ,alfred was five years old1 and the document is the earliest tangible link still existing between the city and the great ,king4 ,of thelwulf's other acts1 his two marriages1 his journey to ,rome1 and his grant to the ,pope of ,peter's ,pence1 as a ransom to relieve the sufferings of ,english pilgrims journeying thither1 we cannot speak in detail4 ,suffice it that ,alfred was taken to ,rome by him when quite young1 and was solemnly confirmed by the ,pope himself4 thelwulf died in #heg1 and was buried in the ,cathedral4 ,his bones rest in a mortuary chest mingled with those of ,kynegils4 ,each of his four sons succeeded him1 one after other1 and during their reigns the ,danish incursions grew in frequency and intensity3 #heg saw them repulsed with heavy slaughter in ,southampton ,water2 in #hfj they came again1 forced their way to ,winchester itself1 burnt and sacked it4 ,the ,cathedral and ,monastery appear to have escaped1 thanks possibly to the strong1 defending wall which ,swithun had erected4 ,illustration3 ,,hamble ,a characteristic seaport village at the mouth of ,hamble estuary--the centre of an important crab and lobster trade4 ,in the mud of the tidal river lies embedded an ancient ,danish 8longship10 supposed to have figured in the ,danish descents of ,alfred the ,great's time4 ,the ,mercury ,training ,ship lies moored here2 its masts and yards can be seen up the river4 ,the rich red brick and tile work of ,hamble village forms in summer-time a delightful picture from the water1 with the blue of the river and the yachts in front and the dark trees behind4 ,warsash lies just opposite ,hamble1 and ,netley just behind it4 thelbert succeeded to thelbald1 thelred to thelbert1 and ever the struggle increased in intensity4 ,in the last year of thelred's reign he and ,alfred fought no less than nine pitched battles against the ,danes4 ,in the winter of #hga thelred died1 as it would seem1 mortally wounded in battle1 and was buried at ,wimborne1 and ,alfred1 the last of the four brothers1 became king4 ,,chapter ,,vi ,,alfred ,a prince that draws ,by example more than others do by laws4 ,that is so just1 to his great act and thought ,to do1 not what kings may1 but what kings ought4 ,,ben ,,jonson1 ,the ,hue and ,cry4 ,alfred the ,great belongs in a peculiar sense to ,winchester2 here he was proclaimed king2 here he lived1 and ruled1 and made his laws2 here he gathered round him that assemblage of divines and learned men with whose co-operation he gave the first great impetus to a national literature2 here he commenced the ,english ,chronicle2 here he devised his plans for constructing a navy to defend the land against foreign foes2 here he founded a monastery1 the ,newan ,mynstre1 destined to play a great and honourable part for some #fjj years after him2 here his queen founded a sister institution1 the abbey of ,st4 ,mary2 here he died and was buried1 leaving behind him the savour of a life strenuous1 blameless1 and devoted1 having shown his world that the fullest development of manly vigour was compatible both with the saintliness of the devotee and the culture of the book-lover and the student4 ,it was a rude age1 the age of ,alfred1 but nevertheless it was a great age1 for it was1 in spite of all its crudeness and brutality1 an age in which ideals were sought after1 and indeed worshipped4 ,it was ,alfred's high distinction that he not only steered the ship of state successfully through seemingly overwhelming dangers1 but that in his own life he exhibited to the world a realized ideal--an ideal that comparatively few monarchs have made any attempt to strive after1 and which1 it is safe to say1 none ever achieved so completely4 ,there have1 indeed1 been great empire builders like ,charlemagne1 great law-givers like our first ,edward1 saints with the spiritual elevation of ,st4 ,louis1 scholars and patrons of learning like ,henry ,,vi41 but none have combined these high qualities with such just balance and self-restraint as ,alfred1 who may be truly said to have embodied in his own life the earnest1 long-continued prayer which his own words expressed3 ,i have sought to live worthily while ,i lived1 and after my death to leave to the men that should be after me my remembrance in good works4 ,alfred was born at ,wantage in #hdi1 and there is little to connect his early life definitely with ,winchester4 ,his association in quite early days with the king's court1 so frequently held in the city1 with the aged ,swithun1 who rarely left the city1 not to mention the charter of thelwulf1 above referred to1 which bears his name1 all render his early connection with ,winchester more than probable4 ,it was an active and stirring boyhood1 including one1 if not two1 visits to ,rome1 and a solemn confirmation at the ,pope's own hands--events which must have profoundly stirred him1 young as he was4 ,the bent of his mind was early displayed when his mother ,osberga 7or1 it may be1 his stepmother1 ,judith2 ,asser says the latter7 showed him and his brothers an illuminated volume--,anglo-,saxon poetry1 very possibly the songs of ,caedmon--and promised the book to the one who should first learn to repeat them4 ,alfred immediately sought his tutor's help1 and won the prize1 which appealed so much more keenly to him than to his elder brothers4 ,for all that it was as a warrior1 prompt in action1 resolute in difficulty1 that he first rose to distinction4 ,at the critical moment1 while his brother1 ,king thelred1 delayed1 he hurled himself on the ,danes1 and overthrew them at the fierce battle of ,ashdown1 in the ,vale of the ,white ,horse4 ,it was but an episode in the continuous struggle1 and the end of the year saw the death of thelred1 and ,alfred was called upon by the ,witan1 against his will indeed1 at the age of twenty-two to mount the throne4 ,it was a thankless and1 as it would seem1 hopeless task that the youthful king had before him4 ,the last thirty years had changed the face of the land2 bit by bit the ,danes had made good their footing2 province after province had fallen into their possession4 ,edmund1 the saintly king of ,east ,anglia1 had died a martyr's death at their hands2 ,alfred's three brothers had mounted the throne one by one1 but1 bravely as they had struggled1 they had merely been able to retard1 not to prevent the resistless advance4 ,as he looked round on the blackened ruins of the capital in which he had just been crowned1 his heart might well have sunk within him4 ,nor was it merely the fate of ,england which then hung in the balance2 that of northern ,christendom equally depended on the issue of the conflict4 ,it is not generally recognized that during the early years of ,alfred's reign the heroic determination of the youthful king1 and the loyal devotion of the sorely dismembered little kingdom of ,wessex--for all else in ,england was lost--were all that stood between northern ,europe and an ever-advancing tide of pitiless and savage heathenism1 which1 had it not been stemmed1 would have engulfed the whole northern continent1 with little hope of ,christian enlightenment and development1 it may have been for centuries4 ,we may well be proud of the part that ,winchester1 as the capital of ,wessex1 played in the course of civilization during those dark days2 and when1 as indeed happened #aej years after1 ,winchester did see the ,danish kingdom realized and herself the capital of it1 it was a ,christian and civilizing kingdom1 and not one of violence and unbridled slaughter1 over which she was called to preside4 ,well was it that ,alfred was ,one who never turned his back1 but marched breast forward1 ,never doubted clouds would break1 ,never dreamed1 though right were worsted1 wrong would triumph1 ,held we fall to rise1 are baffled to fight better1 ,sleep to wake4 ,it is to ,alfred1 to the men of ,wessex1 and in part to ,winchester that the cause of civilization owes the deliverance from this impending danger4 ,for seven years the conflict went on1 but it was a conflict almost of despair1 though ,alfred met all attacks with unfailing heart and resourcefulness4 ,at length in #hgh all seemed lost4 ,alfred was surprised at ,chippenham during the ,twelfth ,night festivities1 and forced to take refuge in the morasses of ,somersetshire4 ,the story is too well known to need retelling here2 suffice it that in less than six months ,alfred had reasserted himself1 had conquered the ,danes1 had made peace1 and had divided the realm with them4 #hgh1 with the refuge in ,athelney and the peace of ,wedmore1 was the turning-point in the struggle and in the fate of the whole nation4 ,the second period of the reign1 the period of more peaceful reconstruction and consolidation1 for plenty of fighting still remained to be done1 centres largely round ,winchester1 and it is more particularly round ,wolvesey and the scanty remains of ,hyde ,abbey that the memory of ,alfred still most closely lingers4 ,wolvesey was the royal seat4 ,here he formed his court2 here he inaugurated his reforms2 here he laboured1 studied1 deliberated4 ,the defence of his kingdom1 the repair of the material ruin caused by foreign invasion1 the construction of a fleet of ships1 the promulgation of wise laws1 the promotion of education1 the encouragement of literature and travel1 the actual founding of a national ,english literature and an ,english historical record1 which no other nation can find a parallel to1 the endowment of religious worship--all these in turn occupied his attention while he dwelt at ,wolvesey4 ,the command of the seas he early recognized to be the real defence of the land1 and as soon as opportunity served he set himself to build a fleet4 ,the ,chronicle tells us that he commanded long ships 7aescas7 to be built against them 7the ,danes1 that is7 which were full nigh twice as long as the others4 ,some had sixty oars1 some more2 they were both swifter and steadier1 and also higher than the others4 ,they were shaped neither like the ,frisian nor the ,danish1 but as it seemed to him they could be most useful4 ,the ,chronicle gives us also a stirring account of a sea-fight in one of the ,hampshire harbours between ,alfred's vessels and three ,danish long ships4 ,it is a graphic and well-told narrative1 too long to be quoted here4 ,the crews of two of the pirates were captured1 and brought to the king at ,winchester4 ,the king1 who was then at ,wolvesey1 commanded them to be hanged1 very likely above those very walls of ,wolvesey1 grey and weather-beaten1 which we see now1 and which in their 8herring-bone0 masonry still show the hand of the ,saxon builder who erected them4 ,in the bed of the ,hamble ,river there lies still embedded the keel of a #8long ship4' ,one would dearly like to believe that it was one of those very pirate vessels which were driven aground1 and whose crews were captured as related above1 and the fact is not indeed impossible4 ,some planks and portions of this vessel may be seen in the ,westgate ,museum in ,winchester1 and various mementoes1 such as the ceremonial casket presented to ,lord ,roberts with the freedom of the city on his return from ,south ,africa1 have in recent times been made from it4 ,of ,alfred's life of study and devotion we have a pleasant picture in ,asser's ,biography4 ,asser1 afterwards ,bishop of ,sherborne1 was a monk of ,st4 ,david's whom ,alfred persuaded to come to ,winchester1 and to enter his service as scribe and literary helpmate4 ,asser tells us that 8it was his usual custom both by night and day1 amid his numerous occupations of mind and body1 either himself to read books or to listen while others read them40 ,the roll of ,alfred's literary productions is a long one--,orosius1 the ,consolations of ,boethius1 the ,pastoral ,care of ,pope ,gregory1 and ,bede's ,history of the ,english ,church were all rendered into the vernacular4 ,more important still was the ,english ,chronicle1 of which no less an authority than ,professor ,freeman says1 8,it is the book we should learn to reverence next after our ,bible40 ,it is a treasure-house of contemporary record1 systematically kept and reliable1 such as no other nation1 save the ,hebrews1 has ever possessed4 ,in all probability the ,illustration3 ,,at ,,itchen ,,abbas ,a village on the ,itchen1 five miles above ,winchester1 surrounded everywhere by picturesque scenery4 ,the #8,gospel ,oak' in ,avington ,park1 is some mile or so distant4 ,kingsley wrote part of his ,water-,babies while staying at the ,plough ,inn at ,itchen ,abbas in the course of a fishing holiday4 ,big trout may often be seen lying under the bridge here4 original was compiled and kept at ,wolvesey1 and copies were made for use at various other places1 as ,canterbury1 ,hereford1 ,peterborough4 ,six ancient copies are extant1 of which four are in the ,british ,museum4 ,one of the two others is an actual ,winchester copy of extreme antiquity1 and is preserved in the ,parker ,collection of ,,mss4 at ,corpus ,christi ,college1 ,cambridge4 ,alfred's last years were devoted to founding religious houses--one at ,shaftesbury1 one at ,athelney1 and one1 which concerns us most immediately1 at ,winchester1 the #8,newan ,mynstre1' and his queen1 ,alswitha1 founded a nunnery at ,winchester also--#8,nunna ,mynstre' or ,st4 ,mary's ,abbey4 ,alfred matured his plans for the ,newan ,mynstre in conjunction with ,grimbald of ,flanders1 whom he invited over to ,england1 and whom he induced to remain by making him the first abbot4 ,but he only lived to acquire the site1 for which1 it is said1 he paid the enormous rate of a mark of gold per foot4 ,the spot selected was north-west of the present cathedral churchyard1 in the angle near ,st4 ,laurence's ,church1 and the minster was completed by ,edward the ,elder1 ,king ,alfred's son1 who succeeded him4 ,the further history of the ,newan ,mynstre1 its removal and rebuilding as ,hyde ,abbey1 its dissolution and its decay1 will be related in due course4 ,alfred died in #ija1 and his remains have been thrice interred--first of all in the #8,ealden ,mynstre1' the old minster1 as the cathedral began then to be called2 then at the completion of the ,newan ,mynstre they were translated thither with solemn pomp and reverence2 and again at the reconstruction and removal of the fabric with equal pomp and circumstance to ,hyde ,abbey4 ,the abbey is now merely a ruined fragment1 and every trace of the abbey church has disappeared4 ,the citizens of ,winchester1 so careful in the main of their treasures of antiquity1 have permitted ,alfred's resting-place to be lost sight of and forgotten altogether1 and modern search has not as yet identified the spot4 ,in #aija1 the year of the millenary of his death1 an attempt was made to atone in some measure for this irreparable neglect1 and the boldly conceived statue of ,alfred1 erected in ,winchester ,broadway1 in front of the spot which his own queen's abbey had actually occupied1 is a reminder1 not unworthy so far as outward monument and statuary art can serve1 of the hallowed association of ,winchester with this1 the greatest of all our ,english monarchs4 ,true is it that little tangible now remains1 whether of ,wolvesey1 ,newan ,mynstre1 or ,hyde which we can directly connect with him--but his story1 and his work1 the inspiration of his life1 and his example are things more real and more tangible in their way even than brick or stone or carven figure1 and ,alfred's memory can never here be lost1 even though his tomb remains lost sight of and slighted1 and #8no man knoweth of his sepulchre unto this day4' ,,chapter ,,vii ,,alfred',s ,,death ,,and ,,sixty ,,years ,,after ,erunt reges nutritii tui1 et reginae nutrices tuae4 ,when ,alfred died in #ija he had accomplished a great work2 a work great and lasting1 as the next sixty years were to show1 and during these years the ascendancy of ,wessex and of the line of ,egbert was to grow more and more undisputed1 till it culminated in the reign of ,edgar the ,magnificent4 ,these days were days of rapid development in ,winchester1 and the fortunes of the city at this period were closely linked with ,alswitha1 ,alfred's widow1 ,grimbald1 the monk1 and the two strong kings of ,alfred's line1 ,edward1 his son1 and ,athelstan1 his grandson4 ,as already related1 ,alfred had planned the important foundation of the ,newan ,mynstre1 and had settled the site before his death4 ,its completion was the work of the early days of ,edward the ,elder1 who1 almost immediately on ascending the throne1 convened a great meeting of the ,witan at ,winchester to discuss the matter at the outset4 ,the king's own views were limited and parsimonious1 and he was anxious to lay the lands of the ,ealden ,mynstre under contribution as a means of defraying the cost1 but the venerable ,grimbald1 now over eighty years of age1 was inflexible4 8,god will not10 said he1 8accept robbery for burnt-offering10 and he carried his point4 ,the king made a liberal endowment for the purpose1 and the walls of the minster rose apace4 ,at the same time the abbey of ,st4 ,mary1 founded by ,alswitha1 was proceeded with1 and the monastic quarter of the city saw a trinity of fair monasteries1 grouped side by side1 rise rapidly into prominence4 ,accident served to invest the new abbey with peculiar interest and sanctity4 ,a ,danish descent on ,picardy had driven a crowd of refugees to seek shelter across the sea1 and they had crossed over to ,hampshire1 bearing with them their greatest treasure--the hallowed bones of their patron saint1 ,st4 ,judocus or ,st4 ,josse4 ,the king received them hospitably at ,winchester1 and the sacred relics were solemnly and splendidly enshrined within the partially completed church of the ,new ,minster4 ,then in #ijc1 in the presence of a great concourse of nobles and clergy1 the dedication of the ,new ,minster was solemnly performed by ,plegmund1 ,archbishop of ,canterbury4 ,scarcely was this completed ere another equally striking act was performed1 viz4 the translation within the walls of the new church of the remains of the founder1 the great ,alfred himself--a solemn and imposing rite1 carried out with all the pomp and dignity of impressive circumstance3 cum apparatibus regali magnificentia dignis 7with solemn pomp befitting his royal state71 as the ,liber de ,hyda informs us4 ,then in rapid succession ,grimbald1 ,alfred's first nominated abbot1 and ,alswitha1 his devoted queen and widow1 were called to rest1 and the queen's remains were piously interred side by side with those of her husband4 ,thus within three years of ,alfred's death the ,newan ,mynstre had risen not merely into being1 but had already become invested with ascendancy and popular prestige as the hallowed repository of the mortal remains of a wonder-working saint1 a venerated abbot1 of a saintly king1 and of his royal consort4 ,some twenty years later1 within the same abbey church--thus already established as a venerated mausoleum--,edward the ,elder himself was also laid1 after a strenuous reign1 in which he had consolidated the ,anglo-,saxon power and had re-established firmly the unity of the kingdom4 ,thus1 as year succeeded year1 ,winchester grew in extent and importance4 ,the prestige and dignity of its ecclesiastical foundations established it thus early as the leading centre of pious pilgrimage in the south of ,england1 and shopmen and merchants followed eagerly the pilgrim stream4 ,accordingly ,edward the ,elder drew up what may be called the first commercial code of the city--laws regulating the selling of goods and the making of bargains in open market in the city4 ,in the same reign associations or confraternities of traders for mutual support began to be formed--confraternities which1 under the name of #8gilds' or guilds1 were destined to become in time corporate municipal bodies1 with the #8,hall of the ,gild ,merchant' as the centre of civic rule and influence4 ,a formal mayor and corporation were to come later1 but the elements and something more of civic rule in ,winchester can be thus traced continuously back and recognized for full a thousand years4 ,of ,athelstan the warrior we have but little actual ,winchester history to record2 he reigned from #ibe to #idj1 and was buried not at ,winchester but at ,malmesbury4 ,to atone for this historical paucity we have one glorious romantic legend--the legend of the fight between ,guy of ,warwick and ,colbrand1 the ,danish giant and warrior1 a story which has long been a classic fairy tale4 ,rudborne1 in his ,major ,historia ,wintoniae1 copying from the ,liber de ,hyda1 solemnly records how ,athelstan1 invested in his capital city by ,anelafe1 ,king of the ,danes1 agreed with his besieger to decide the issue by a combat between champions1 and he tells us how a new ,polyphemus1 monstrum1 horrendum1 informe1 ingens1 ,colbrand1 8a giant wondrous of stature1 hideous of aspect1 and of unparalleled ferocity10 came forward to champion the ,danish cause1 and how the ,english protagonist1 ,guy of ,warwick1 his opposite in every attribute1 8prudent1 self-restrained1 resolute1 manly in mind and skilled to combat10 ,against great odds bare up the war 8in a certain meadow lying northward of the city1 now called ,de ,hyde mead1 then called ,denemarck10 while ,athelstan watched the combat anxiously from a corner of the city walls4 ,swords flashed1 splinters flew1 long was the conflict doubtful2 each antagonist in turn prevailed1 while hearts beat fast and lips grew white with tense compression1 till right prevailed1 and the head of the second ,goliath was severed from its trunk by our ,saxon ,david4 ,the worthy ,knighton1 in his ,de ,eventibus ,angliae1 amplifies the story1 and the details fairly scintillate at his imaginative smithy4 ,the fight occurs in ,chiltecumbe or ,chilcomb valley2 ,guy of ,warwick takes the field1 mounted on ,athelstan's own steed and girt with arms of wondrous potency--the sword of ,constantine the ,great1 the spear of ,saint ,maurice himself4 ,colbrand1 also mounted1 bears with him a whole armoury--axe1 and club1 and iron hook--while a waggon by his side bears a whole assortment of miscellaneous ironmongery for him to use at need against his adversary4 ,it is strength1 and stature1 and brute force against courage and address1 and for a long time ,guy appears to be at the mercy of his adversary4 ,the latter1 however1 in dealing a ponderous blow--the coup de grce as he imagines--contrives to let his weapon slip1 and as he reaches to recover it1 the ,english champion rushes in and severs his hand from off his arm4 ,nevertheless1 the issue is for long in doubt1 and it is not till darkness has all but fallen that the giant's strength ebbs from weakness and loss of blood1 and his nimble adversary shears off his head with one sweep of his sword4 ,readers of ,kingsley's ,hereward the ,wake will recall in the above act something more than a reminiscence of the strong conflict between ,hereward and ,ironhook1 the ,cornish giant4 ,the story is indeed a ,cornish legend1 localised round ,athelstan and the ,wessex capital4 ,gerald of ,cornwall1 a writer whose writings exist now only in fragments1 related it in his ,de ,gestis ,regum ,westsaxonum1 and it is his account1 incorporated in the ,liber de ,hyda1 which is the source of its introduction into our local history4 ,yet strange as it may seem1 this wildly impossible romance was accepted for centuries as historical2 ,danemark mead still exists as a local name1 and an inn known as the ,champions only disappeared from the reputed locale of this wonderful conflict a few years ago4 ,and so through legend and historical record alike1 our city's history moved forward step by step4 ,king after king of ,egbert's line succeeded to the throne and ruled in ,winchester4 ,edred the ,pious succeeded ,edmund the ,magnificent and was buried in the ,old ,minster4 ,edwy the ,inglorious succeeded ,edred1 and died and was buried in the ,new ,minster1 and thus in #iei the realm passed under the rule of ,edgar1 his half-brother1 ,edgar the ,peaceable1 whom the monks named also ,edgar the ,magnificent4 ,with his reign a fresh chapter of interest and importance opens in our city's history4 ,illustration3 ,,high ,,street1 ,,winchester ,the #8,butter ,cross1' as the ,city ,cross is invariably denominated1 forms the most characteristic feature of the delightful old-world ,high ,street4 ,close by are the #8,piazza1' and a charming old timber-fronted ,tudor house1 now a well-known picture shop4 ,behind the ,cross is the opening of #8,little ,minster ,passage' leading to the ,cathedral4 ,in #aggj it was decided to remove the ,butter ,cross1 and it was actually sold to a purchaser for this purpose1 but the inhabitants rose in indignation1 forcibly removed the scaffolding erected round it1 and so preserved it from destruction4 ,,chapter ,,viii ,,thelwold1 ,,saint ,,and ,,bishop ,o see ye not yon narrow road ,so thick beset with thorns and briars8 ,that is the land of righteousness1 ,tho' after it but few enquires4 ,,thomas ,,the ,,rhymer4 ,with the death of ,edwy in #iei a new chapter of interest opens1 a period of revival1 of growth1 of development1 the golden age of ,saxon ,winchester1 during which the ,saxon city was at its zenith of importance1 the reign of ,edgar the ,peaceable and ,magnificent4 ,the monkish chroniclers have for the most part painted ,edgar in glossy colours2 they sang his virtues1 his magnificence1 his piety1 his love for ,holy ,church4 ,they spoke of him as a second ,solomon1 and the comparison was in its way not inapt1 for1 like ,solomon1 he enjoyed peace and loved display2 like ,solomon1 he allowed his private life to drag him to a low level2 and1 like ,solomon1 he left a son behind him1 who was to see his kingdom rent asunder and a better than he bearing sway in it4 ,but it is neither ,edgar1 who1 with all his faults1 ruled wisely1 nor his son1 thelred1 of ,evil ,counsel1 who1 with all his vices1 did not1 who are the leading figures of interest at this juncture2 neither is it the great ,dunstan1 of whom we get fleeting glances1 ,dunstan1 the great archbishop1 the master-mind of his time1 in whose hands the would-be masterful and imperious king was indeed but as clay unto the potter1 little though he realized it4 ,it is thelwold the bishop1 thelwold the saint and revivalist1 thelwold the builder and lover of learning1 who is the dominating figure1 and it is rather by the commencement and completion of his work than by the accessions or deaths of kings that the limits of the period are to be assigned4 ,for estimating the course of ,winchester history at this important and interesting stage we have fortunately more than an abundance--a wealth of historical materials4 ,not only do the ,english ,chronicle and all the leading monkish chroniclers contain full references1 but numerous other local sources of history1 e4g4 ,rudborne1 the various ,winchester annalists1 and the ,liber de ,hyda1 exist1 which deal fully with it4 ,besides these we have a minutely circumstantial life of thelwold himself1 and1 perhaps most interesting of all1 a remarkable account by the same author1 ,wulfstan1 precentor of ,winchester1 describing1 in curiously involved and almost interminable ,latin elegiacs1 the wonders of the new ,winchester cathedral which thelwold built1 and the splendour of various great and striking ceremonies which he saw performed within it4 thelwold did more than merely leave his mark on ,winchester2 he transformed it4 ,he found its ecclesiastical life poor1 self-centred1 and stagnant2 he left it active1 influential1 creative2 he found the ,old ,minster1 with its cathedral church1 bare1 distanced1 and neglected1 eclipsed and outshone by ,alfred's later foundation1 the ,newan ,mynstre4 ,he left it not merely with an acknowledged ascendancy1 but a new fabric1 the finest in the land1 the pride of the city1 and almost one of the wonders of the age1 a centre of pilgrimage of great resort and renown1 with a new shrine containing a new patron saint1 the wonder-working shrine of ,st4 ,swithun4 ,he found the domestic buildings small1 damp1 unhealthy2 he rebuilt them and brought to them a supply of pure water1 irrigating the city and its river valley by streams whose courses still remain1 to all intents and purposes1 unchanged4 ,nullum tetigit quod non ornavit might well have been the epitaph over his tomb4 ,ecclesiastical life in ,england had1 in fact1 never really recovered from the ,danish dbcle of the later ninth century3 monasteries had been burnt1 plundered1 impoverished3 recovery had been but slow and partial3 slackness and sloth were almost universal4 ,it is not known how far in the earlier ,english monasteries the ,benedictine rule and the common cnobitic life had ever been strictly followed1 but when ,dunstan rose to influence there were practically no religious houses where monks were to be found2 in their place non-resident canons1 or seculars1 as they were called1 had become the established order of things1 and the various annalists have painted for us in vivid colours the laxity and debased standard of the ordinary church life of the day4 ,the canons1 or #8seculars1' released from the severe toil and discipline of the ,benedictine rule1 allowed themselves numerous indulgences1 and were in many cases even married4 ,loving comfort and ease1 they neglected the church1 and the daily services were grudgingly carried out by deputy1 by #8vicars' paid1 and paid poorly at that1 to conduct the services while the absentee canons expended the income of their #8prebends' elsewhere at their ease4 ,thus ,wulfstan tells us-- ,there were then in the ,old ,minster1 wherein is the bishop's stool1 canons of disreputable manners and morals1 so swollen with pride and insolence that numbers of them would not condescend to celebrate the masses when their regular turn came1 who turned adrift the wives they had unlawfully married1 and took others in their stead1 and who gave themselves up to gluttony and drunkenness4 ,it is always interesting to note the snowball principle of accretion in the various annalists' accounts1 and the fifteenth-century ,winchester annalist improves upon this picture1 depicting them as 444 canons1 canonical only in name1 who neglected their duties in the church1 and left the pious labours of vigils and the service of the altar to be performed vicariously1 absenting themselves from the sight of the church1 or even1 so to speak1 from the sight of ,god4 ,bare was the church within and without4 ,the vicars1 scarcely able to keep body and soul together1 could not give3 the prebendaries would not4 ,hardly could you find one who1 except on compulsion1 would offer a shabby altar cloth or present a chalice worth a few shillings4 ,be this as it may--and the monkish chroniclers would not be likely to spare the seculars--the standard of life was terribly lax1 and ,dunstan1 originally abbot of ,glastonbury1 then ,bishop of ,worcester1 and finally archbishop1 set out1 with ,king ,edgar's sanction1 on the path of reform1 and thelwold assisted heart and soul in the movement4 ,in their respective abbeys1 ,glastonbury and ,abingdon1 and in these only1 monks had been re-established4 ,now the movement for the replacing of seculars by monks became general1 and when in #ifc he was consecrated ,bishop of ,winchester by ,dunstan1 thelwold set himself to revive the monastic orders in the three ,winchester houses and elsewhere in the land4 ,the canons of the ,old ,minster1 however1 flatly refused to adopt the monastic life and discipline1 and finally thelwold brought monks from ,abingdon to replace them4 ,wulfstan relates their coming thus3-- ,it happened on a ,sabbath in the beginning of ,lent1 as the monks from ,abingdon were standing at the entrance to the church1 that the canons were finishing mass1 chanting together1 8,serve the ,lord with fear and rejoice unto ,him with reverence4 ,take up the discipline1 lest ye perish from the right way10 as if they should say1 8,we will not serve the ,lord1 nor keep ,his discipline2 do you do it in your turn1 lest1 like us1 ye perish from the way which opens the heavenly realms to those who follow righteousness40 ,accepting this as an omen1 one of them exclaimed1 8,why do we stand still outside the church8 ,let us do as these canons exhort us2 let us enter and follow the paths of righteousness40 ,the canons1 however1 struggled hard for reinstatement4 ,they appealed to the king1 who inclined to temporize with them1 and a great meeting of the ,witan was convened at ,winchester1 where ,dunstan and thelwold urged strongly the monastic view4 ,the king1 however1 was still undecided when a voice was heard from the crucifix built against the walls bidding him not to waver longer4 ,thus1 so the ,liber de ,hyda informs us1 the monks were confirmed in occupation4 ,next year it was the turn of the canons of the ,new ,minster to follow suit1 for1 in the words of ,wulfstan1 8thereupon the eagle of ,christ1 ,bishop thelwold1 spread out his golden wings1 and1 with ,king ,edgar's approval1 drove out the canons from the ,new ,minster1 and introduced therein monks who followed the cnobitic rules of life40 ,the ,nunnery1 ,st4 ,mary's ,abbey1 was at the same time placed under the strict ,benedictine rule4 ,and now events moved fast1 and with monks established in the monastery strange rumours and portents began to prevail4 ,it was noised abroad that the saintly ,swithun1 buried humbly in the common graveyard on the north side of the church1 had begun to manifest his virtues by acts of healing at his tomb4 ,the churchyard became the resort of crowds of pilgrims1 until 444 the holy father1 thelwold1 warned by a divine revelation1 translated the holy ,swythun1 the special saint of this church at ,wynchester1 from his unworthy sepulchre1 and piously placed his holy relics with due honour in a shrine of gold and silver given by the king1 and worked with the utmost richness and craftsman's skill4 ,the same account tells us that the bones of ,st4 ,birinus were similarly deposited in another shrine1 but ,st4 ,swithun was the popular saint1 and the miracles wrought at his shrine soon made the ,old ,minster renowned throughout the whole land4 ,indeed1 as ,rudborne1 the monk1 quaintly and navely tells us1 8as long as canons held the ,church at ,winchester there were no miracles performed1 but no sooner were they ejected and replaced by monks than miracles were wrought abundantly40 ,doubtless ,rudborne was right4 ,at all events crowds of pilgrims thronged to ,winchester1 and the name of ,swithun1 the ,saxon saint1 became a power in the land4 ,but all this time thelwold was at work rebuilding the ,cathedral1 and the church he reared was the finest in the land--one of the wonders of the age4 ,wulfstan in his long-winded way describes the building1 its aisles1 its towers1 its crypt1 both mystifying the reader and losing himself over and over again in the description1 as he relates how the newcomer passes bewildered from one wonder to another1 till he knows neither how to advance nor to get back again4 ,nesciat unde meat1 quove pedem referat4 ,the gilded weather-cock on the top of one of the towers in particular fired his imagination4 ,glorious and superb1 it grasped the ball of empire with its splendid talons1 and from its lofty standard dominated the whole populace of the city3-- ,imperii sceptrum pedibus tenet ille superbis1 ,stat super et cunctum ,wintoniae populum4 ,the mighty organ placed in the church by thelwold's successor he also enlarges upon4 ,this mighty instrument had twenty-six bellows--twelve above1 fourteen below--worked laboriously by seventy full-grown men1 who sweated at their task1 while two organists hammered vigorously upon the manuals1 flooding the whole city with the volume of the sound4 ,wulfstan not only gives us these details of the building1 but he describes the various splendid ceremonies which he himself witnessed within it--the translation of ,st4 ,swithun's bones in the presence of ,king ,edgar2 the dedication in #ihj1 when ,king thelred and nine bishops were present1 including the 8white-haired and angelic ,dunstan03-- ,canitie nivens ,dunstan et angelicus4 ,then of the feast which followed1 telling us how a tenth bishop--one ,poca--who arrived too late for the labours of the ceremony1 atoned for it amply by the depth of his potations4 ,nulla laboris agens1 pocula multa bibens4 ,illustration3 ,,st4 ,,peter',s1 ,,cheesehill1 ,,winchester ,one of the oldest of ,winchester ,parish ,churches1 of ,norman date4 ,cheesehill--a corruption of ,chesil--a word still surviving in ,chesil ,beach1 near ,portland--denotes the dry or gravelly strand along the bank of the ,itchen1 and has no connection with cheese4 ,cheesehill ,street1 though somewhat #8slummy1' is very picturesque and contains many interesting old houses4 ,later on there was a second dedication4 ,altogether it was a period of splendid and impressive ceremonial4 thelwold's monks displayed their zeal in another channel4 ,in both monasteries scriptoria were established1 and ,winchester became the centre of an unrivalled school of ,,ms4 illumination4 ,the ,,ms4 treasures of thelwold's monks may still be seen in the ,british ,museum1 in ,winchester ,cathedral ,library1 at the ,bodleian1 and at ,rouen4 ,loveliest of all is the priceless #8,benedictional of ,st4 thelwold1' the glory of the ,chatsworth collection1 a ,,ms4 of rare beauty and interest1 for it preserves for us the figure and features of ,st4 thelwold himself as well as some of the architectural details of the new cathedral he had erected4 ,how the #8,benedictional' came into the possession of the ,cavendish family is unknown4 ,is it too much to hope that later on the day may come when such a treasure may be restored to its natural home--the ,cathedral ,library at ,winchester8 thelwold's last work for ,winchester we have already mentioned--the rebuilding of the monastery4 ,he transformed the channels of ,itchen1 and brought its purifying waters through the city and the monastery by fresh courses4 ,quoting again from ,wulfstan3-- ,hucque ,dulcia piscosae flumina traxit aquae ,successusque laci penetrant secreta domorum ,mundantes locum murmure coenobium1 ,here great thelwold led sweet fishful courses of water4 ,and murmurs of mingling streams pervade the recesses monastic4 ,such1 then1 was thelwold4 ,in #ihd he died1 and was buried in the crypt of the cathedral he had erected4 ,the place of his sepulture is now unknown4 ,there are few among the makers of ,winchester greater than he4 ,we have dealt with this era of constructive effort as if the full design was brought to completion in thelwold's lifetime4 ,such was not indeed the case1 and it was left to lfeah1 his successor in the episcopate1 to actually finish the building schemes inaugurated by his predecessor4 ,but it was thelwold1 not lfeah1 whose creation it really was1 and lfeah 7,st4 ,alphege7 will always be remembered more feelingly as the ,archbishop of ,canterbury1 martyred by the ,danes1 rather than as the completer of thelwold's great master-work in ,winchester4 ,,chapter ,,ix ,,the ,,capital ,,of ,,the ,,danish ,,empire ,saxon and ,norman and ,dane are we4 thelwold's work was still in full progress when ,king ,edgar died in #ige4 ,young as he was--he was only some thirty-two years old when he died--he had reigned for some sixteen years1 and his reign had had notable results4 ,it had been a reign of uninterrupted peace2 indeed it was the only peaceful reign1 save ,edward the ,confessor's1 of any ,saxon king in ,england1 and a reign1 moreover1 of good government and wise laws4 ,and though the memories of ,edgar's domestic life1 his intrigues1 and his tragic murder of his false friend1 ,earl thelwold1 belong rather to ,wherwell and ,andover than to ,winchester1 we have many personal touches reminding us of his close connection with ,winchester history4 ,we see him holding his court continually at ,wolvesey4 ,tradition even derives the name of ,wolvesey from the wolf's head tribute which he caused to be paid to him there1 and which brought about the practical extermination of wolves in the land2 but be that as it may1 at ,wolvesey ,edgar royally kept his state1 presiding over many a great meeting of the ,witan1 and promulgating his laws with the imperious formula1 8,i and the ,archbishop0--an involuntary acknowledgment of what was1 after all1 the great power behind the throne1 the influence of ,dunstan4 ,we see him attending the imposing ecclesiastic ceremonies of his reign1 such as the enshrinement of the bones of ,swithun1 and we read of the wise laws and reforms he inaugurated4 ,he standardized the coinage and the weights and measures of the realm4 8,let one weight and one measure be used in all ,england1 after the standard of ,london and of ,winchester40 8,let there be one standard of coinage throughout the king's realm0--regulations which serve to show the development of commerce and prosperity in the kingdom4 ,another was a curious law passed to check the excessive drinking habits to which in particular his ,danish subjects were addicted4 ,pegs were placed at certain intervals in the drinking cups1 and no one was suffered to 8drink below his peg40 ,yet notable as ,king ,edgar was as a king1 his personal claim entitles him to little respect4 ,allowing fully for the lowly standard of his age1 his life was sensual1 loose1 and so smirched with squalid self-indulgence that even his monkish admirers1 who had every reason to laud him highly1 were forced to mingle censure with the lavish encomiums they heaped upon him1 and it was a bitter legacy which his loose domestic life left behind him for the nation to inherit4 ,the national record1 the ,english ,chronicle1 accords him an appreciative but discriminating epitaph1 praising his good rule and reciting his virtues indeed1 but concluding in words which we can all at least re-echo3-- ,may ,god grant him that his good deeds be more prevailing than his misdeeds for his soul's protection on the longsome journey4 ,and now followed years of tragedy and strife4 ,edgar's elder son1 ,edward1 was very soon murdered by his stepmother1 lfrida1 and the throne passed into the hands of ,edgar's second son1 thelred the ,redeless1 or thelred of ,evil ,counsel1 the feeblest1 most inept1 most hopeless of all our monarchs1 whether ,saxon or ,english4 ,his reign was to witness the recrudescence of ,viking inroad and savage assault1 and when1 after bleeding the resources of the realm to death in a vain and hopeless effort to buy off the invaders1 his foolish brain conceived the wickedness of murdering all the ,danes in ,england--a fatuous and desperate act of villainy1 hatched at ,winchester and consummated on ,st4 ,brice's ,day #ajjb--the tragedy of misery was exchanged for the ruin of despair1 and the terrible vengeance the ,danes exacted was only ended by the conquest of the realm and the passing of it into ,danish hands1 and so ,winchester became the capital of a greater empire than ever before or since--the capital of the great ,scandinavian empire of ,cnut4 ,most striking of all the figures of this period1 more interesting far than the ignoble king1 was thelred's queen1 ,emma1 daughter of ,richard1 ,duke of ,normandy1 the beautiful1 fascinating1 and designing woman whom for her beauty the ,saxons called lfgyfu ,emma--,emma1 the gift of the elves--whom thelred married at ,winchester in #ajjb4 ,a rare personality this lfgyfu ,emma1 but not a pleasing one4 8,i governed men by change1 and so ,i swayed all moods10 she might have said of herself4 ,the wife of two successive kings1 and the mother of two more1 she was to be for fifty years1 and during five successive reigns1 the central influence in ,winchester history2 for thelred on the day he married her presented ,winchester and ,exeter to her as her #8morning gift1' or wedding present1 and when he died1 ,cnut the ,dane1 thelred's successor1 wedded her in turn4 ,of the details of her career we have yet to speak more fully1 and after ,cnut's death she #8sat' or kept her court at ,winchester for many years as the #8,old ,lady1' the beautiful ,saxon phrase for ,queen ,dowager4 ,her memory lingers now most closely around the charming old ,tudor building1 ,godbegot ,house1 fronting ,winchester ,high ,street1 which occupies the site and still re-echoes the name of a little manor which once belonged to her--the little manor of ,godbiete4 ,queen ,emma granted it to the prior and convent of ,st4 ,swithun1 8,toll free and ,tax free for ever10 and toll free and tax free it remained for years and years1 wherein none had right of access1 and even the king's warrant lost its authority4 ,and so for some hundreds of years the liberty of ,godbiete remained a source of division and evil influence1 a sanctuary or #8,alsatia' right in the heart of the city1 where those obnoxious to the law might shelter and defy its terrors4 ,for 8no mynyster of ye ,kinge nether of none other lords of franchese shall do any execucon wythyn the bounds of ye seid maner1 but all only of ye mynystoris of ye seid ,prior and convent0--a rarely suggestive illustration of mediaeval life and method4 ,destined ever to bring trouble with her in her lifetime1 her very legacy seemed to bear with it the same evil fruit of civil disturbance to the city and much bickering of rival authorities for centuries after her death4 ,of ,winchester in ,cnut's reign we have frequent mention in the chronicles of the time4 ,the story of ,cnut rebuking his courtiers on the seashore at ,southampton we need not repeat1 except as regards its sequel4 8,after which10 to quote ,rudborne's account1 8,cnut never wore his crown1 but placing it on the head of the image above the high altar of the cathedral 7at ,winchester71 afforded a striking example of humility to the kings who should come after him40 ,nor was humility the only virtue ,cnut displayed4 ,his munificence to the ,church was striking and ample1 and one chronicler after another the gifts made by ,cnut and ,emma jointly to the religious houses both at ,winchester and in the district round4 8,this same ,cnut10 we read1 8embellished the ,old ,minster with such magnificence that the gold and silver and the splendour of the precious stones dazzled the eyes of the beholders40 ,two of ,cnut's gifts were indeed to become memorable in after years4 ,one was the great altar cross of solid gold which he and ,queen ,emma presented jointly to the ,new ,minster1 a presentation quaintly portrayed in the ,liber ,vitae of ,hyde1 a register and martyrology illuminated at ,winchester during this reign4 ,for years it remained the glory of the houses till it was destroyed at the burning of ,hyde ,abbey1 and even then its history was not ended1 for ,bishop ,henry of ,blois1 having stolen the precious metal mingled with the ashes from the conflagration1 was forced by the monks of ,hyde to make restitution4 ,the other historic gift was that made to the ,old ,minster1 of 8three hides of land called ,hille10 usually identified as ,st4 ,catherine's ,hill1 whereon1 in centuries to come1 generation after generation of ,wykeham's scholars were to make regular pilgrimage for purposes of play on #8remedies' or days of relaxation4 ,the land is still ,church property1 and is held now by the ecclesiastical commissioners4 ,cnut is a great figure both in ,winchester and in ,english history4 ,foreigner though he was1 he ruled not as an alien conqueror1 but as an ,english monarch1 and ,englishmen are proud to claim him as one of the greatest among our national rulers4 ,he died in #ajce1 and his body was brought to ,winchester for interment in the ,old ,minster1 and in the ,cathedral his bones are still preserved in one of the mortuary chests already referred to1 along with those of ,emma his ,illustration3 ,,church ,,of ,,st4 ,,cross ,st4 ,cross ,hospital founded by ,bishop ,henry of ,blois in #aacf1 and placed by him subsequently under the protection of the ,knights of ,st4 ,john of ,jerusalem1 from which circumstance the ,brethren wear the characteristic croix patte or eight-pointed cross of the ,order4 ,illustration ,cardinal ,beaufort built #8,beaufort's ,tower' and most of the present domestic buildings1 and founded the ,order of ,noble ,poverty4 ,the hospitality to travellers for which the ,knights ,hospitallers were noted is still practised in the form of the #8,wayfarer's ,dole' of bread and ale1 dispensed at the hospital gates to those applying for it1 very much as in mediaeval days4 queen1 and--strange companionship--,william ,rufus also4 ,with ,cnut's death came faction and strife4 ,cnut's two sons1 ,harold and his half-brother ,harthacnut1 fgyfu ,emma and ,earl ,godwine1 had all intrigued desperately for power4 ,the various accounts differ1 but ,harthacnut1 who1 as son of ,emma and ,cnut1 had a strong following in the country1 was abroad at the time1 and in his absence ,harold secured the throne4 ,emma had played her cards well1 perhaps too well1 for she had managed to secure possession of ,cnut's treasure and to assert her influence as #8lady paramount' over ,wessex1 for we read 444 it was resolved that fgyfu1 ,harthacnut's mother1 should dwell at ,winchester with the king1 her son's hscarls1 and hold all ,wessex under his authority4 ,but this was not to last4 ,harold asserted himself and raided his #8mother1'--she was his stepmother1 of course1--while 444 lfgyfu ,emma1 the lady1 sat then there within1 and ,harold 444 sent thither1 and caused to be taken from her all the best treasures which she could not hold which ,king ,cnut had possessed2 and yet she sat there therein the while she might4 ,nor was this all4 ,harold's violence became impossible to make head against1 and the poor queen was driven into exile 444 without any mercy against the stormy winter1 and she came to ,bruges beyond sea1 and ,count ,baldwine there well received her 444 the while she had need4 ,and so1 for some three years1 both ,emma and ,harthacnut were fugitives at ,baldwin's court1 till on the death of the violent and worthless ,harold1 some three years after1 they returned4 ,harthacnut1 equally inglorious1 reigned some two years only1 and actually died during his own marriage feast as he stood up to wassail his bride4 ,his body was brought to ,winchester for interment in the ,old ,minster1 as a modern inscription in the ,cathedral serves to remind us2 while his mother enriched the ,new ,minster with a gruesome relic--the head of the blessed ,saint ,valentine the ,martyr--to pay for masses for his soul4 ,then in #ajdc came ,edward the ,confessor1 son of ,emma and thelred the ,redeless1 who was 8hallowed king at ,winchester on the first ,easter day02 and the realm had peace at least1 if not rest1 for over twenty years4 ,since her return to ,england1 ,emma1 #8the lady1' had not been idle1 for at the accession of the new king she was not only re-established in all her old supremacy1 but had recovered much of the wealth which ,harold had wrested from her1 and the remaining seven years of her life witnessed a continual struggle for ascendancy between her and ,edward her son4 ,edward had no sooner been crowned than he set himself to seize her treasure--doubtless it was national rather than personal property--but ,emma1 skilled to fish in troubled water1 had landed both loaves as well as fishes in her net1 and this time ,godwine the earl1 unfortunately for her1 cast his weight into the opposing scale2 accordingly1 six months after ,edward's coronation1 we read-- ,the ,king was so advised that he and ,earl ,leofric1 and ,earl ,godwine1 and ,earl ,siward1 with their attendants1 rode from ,gloucester to ,winchester unawares upon the ,lady 7,emma71 and they bereaved her of all the treasures which she owned1 which were not to be told 444 and after that they let her reside therein-- a passage notable in its way1 for it brings before us1 in close juxtaposition1 practically all the great characters of the ,confessor's reign--lfgyfu ,emma1 and the king her son1 and the three great earls1 with their attendants--,godwine1 the great ,earl of ,wessex1 accompanied possibly by his sons ,harold and ,tostig3 ,leofric1 ,earl of ,mercia1 the #8grim earl' of ,tennyson's poem1 husband of the famous ,godiva3 and ,siward1 ,earl of ,northumbria1 the old ,siward of ,shakespeare's ,macbeth--and suggests a striking subject for pictorial representation1 which as yet1 unfortunately1 no artist's brush has attempted4 ,it was doubtless in the national interest that the three rival earls were led to combine to support the king against his mother1 but we cannot but regret that the circumstance which united this notable and noble trio together in the support of the king--probably the only occasion in his reign when the king ever commanded their united support--should not have been one more heroic than that of forcing a defenceless if grasping old woman to render up the keys of her treasure-chest4 ,we have one more picture of the #8,old ,lady'--the legend of ,queen ,emma and the ploughshares1 a legend peculiarly characteristic of mediaeval sentiment1 which is quaintly narrated in full and charming detail by more than one chronicler4 ,her enemies had slanderously connected her name with that of ,alwine1 ,bishop of ,winchester1 and she had appealed to the ordeal by fire to clear her reputation4 ,coming from ,wherwell ,abbey1 where she had been forced to retire for refuge1 she had passed the night in prayer and fasting1 and in the morning1 in the presence of the king and a great concourse of people1 she had been led forward by two bishops1 to pass barefooted over nine red-hot ploughshares laid in order in the nave of the ,old ,minster church4 ,yet such was the potency of the protection she derived from her blameless conduct and unsullied conscience1 that she was not only unharmed but had actually passed over the ploughshares before she became conscious that she had even reached them1 whereupon the king1 overwhelmed with contrition and remorse1 implored her forgiveness1 in the words of the repentant prodigal3 8,mother1 ,i have sinned against ,heaven and before thee and am no more worthy to be called thy son02 while in token of his sincerity he presented his own body before the queen and the bishops for punishment4 ,the bishops touched him each with a rod1 after which the pious king received three strokes from the hand of his weeping mother4 ,the ,winchester chronicler1 conscious of a #8divided duty1' has managed very dexterously to extricate the king from severe censure1 while honourably loyal to the lady paramount of his city4 ,in #ajeb ,emma died1 and was buried by her second husband's side in the ,old ,minster4 ,her bones still rest1 as already mentioned1 mingled with his1 in one of the ,cathedral mortuary chests4 ,after ,emma's death ,edward the ,confessor was frequently at ,winchester2 he revived the practice of the earlier ,saxon kings1 and 8wore his crown at ,winchester at ,easter time0--in other words1 held his ,easter ,court there4 ,into the details of his reign we need not enter4 ,most striking1 perhaps1 from the point of view of our ,winchester annals1 is the amazing accumulation of extravagant legend1 beneath which the history of this reign is buried and obscured4 ,one such legend we have just related2 another one is that of the mysterious death of ,earl ,godwine4 ,the ,chronicle records the circumstance briefly and naturally4 8,on the second ,easter day he was sitting with the king at refection 7doubtless at ,wolvesey7 when he suddenly sank down by the footstool1 deprived of speech and of all power4444 ,he continued so1 speechless and powerless1 until the ,thursday1 and then resigned his life1 and he lies within the ,old ,minster40 ,a plain story1 plainly told--an old man1 a sudden stroke of paralysis1 and death in its natural course4 ,but not so in the hands of the fifteenth-century annalist2 the story had grown1 by the snowball principle1 by then3 ,godwine was no friend of the monks1 and ,edward was a ,saint--the ,confessor4 ,godwine in this account1 while feasting at the royal table1 is under grievous suspicion of compassing the death of the king's brother1 ,alfred the theling4 ,a cupbearer1 in handing the cup to the king1 slips with one foot on the floor1 but dexterously recovers his balance with the other foot4 8,thus10 remarked ,godwine1 8brother brings aid to brother40 ,the king retorts fiercely1 8,but for the wiles of ,earl ,godwine1 my brother would have been able to bear aid to me40 ,the earl earnestly protesting1 and in token of his innocence1 lifts a piece of bread1 praying that it may choke him if he is in any way complicated in the crime of murder4 ,the pious king solemnly blesses the bread1 which proves a fatal mouthful1 for 8,satan entered into him when he had received the sop10 and the earl falls speechless before the incensed king1 who spurns the body with his foot1 while his sons ,harold and ,tostig remove it1 and later on bury it surreptitiously in the ,cathedral4 ,so was history written #8once upon a time4' ,whereabouts in the ,cathedral the great earl was buried is unknown4 ,one more legend--for legend1 unfortunately1 we must so deem it--the legend of ,abbot ,alwyn and the monks of ,newan ,mynstre1 and we must conclude4 ,edward's reign is marked by the struggle between ,saxon and ,norman interest for supremacy in ,england1 and to the ,confessor ,norman art1 ,norman culture1 ,norman thought were dear4 ,doubtless his instinct was so far right1 but1 unaccompanied as it was by any national sentiment or attachment1 this predilection must be accounted in him a weakness1 and not a virtue1 and opposition to the king's policy took on a national and therefore patriotic colour4 ,this was reflected in the ,winchester religious houses1 and the ,newan ,mynstre1 staunch in its attachment to the ,saxon cause1 became the rallying point for ,saxon patriotism1 while the ,old ,minster had leanings towards the ,norman cause4 ,thus it came about that when1 on the ,confessor's death1 ,harold marched to ,senlac to repel the ,norman invader1 ,abbot ,alwyn and twelve monks of ,newan ,mynstre donned coats of mail1 shouldered each a battleaxe1 and fought sternly and heroically in defence of the cause4 ,there1 in the thickest of the fight1 they plied their axes bravely1 and when all was over their bodies were found1 lying dead round the dead king's banner1 and it was seen from their habit that they were monks of the ,new ,minster at ,winchester4 ,the ,norman ,conqueror1 on being informed of the discovery1 remarked with grim irony that 8the ,abbot was worth a barony1 and each of the monks a manor10 and mulcted the ,new ,minster accordingly4 ,the story1 which is to be found in ,dugdale's ,monasticon1 is picturesque and appealing--unfortunately there is no confirmation of it4 ,it is not given in the ,chronicle1 nor in any local sources such as the ,hyde ,abbey records 7where assuredly it would have been preserved71 in ,rudborne1 or the ,annales de ,wintonia4 ,rudborne gives1 indeed1 a long list of lands which the ,conqueror deprived the ,new ,minster of1 but that in itself would be no confirmation of the story1 for in the same passage he states that ,william also seized lands belonging to the ,old ,minster4 ,william1 it is true1 kept the ,abbacy of the ,new ,minster vacant for some two years1 but that again was but an act of minor tyranny1 too familiar to call for much remark4 ,the story1 indeed1 appears to be quite discredited by the entries in ,domesday ,book1 which seem to afford no evidence of spoliation1 but rather to prove that the ,new ,minster lands were added to by ,william1 while the ,old ,minster certainly suffered at his hands2 and we fear that the story of the abbot and the twelve monks of ,new ,minster must1 like so many others1 be offered up reluctantly as one more sacrifice on the altar of historical accuracy4 ,the subject may be pursued in the ,victoria ,history of ,hampshire1 where it is fully discussed4 ,with ,harold's death on ,senlac field ,winchester opens on a new phase4 ,saxon history in ,winchester is glorious and fascinating1 but of ,saxon buildings in ,winchester few visible traces remain4 ,norman ,winchester is with us still1 and under the ,normans ,winchester was to expand and attain greater outward beauty and glory than perhaps a thousand years of undiluted ,saxon rule would ever have conferred upon her4 ,illustration3 ,,king',s ,,gate1 ,,winchester ,the smallest of the five original gates of ,winchester1 of which it and ,westgate alone are standing now4 ,abutting on the great gate of ,st4 ,swithun's ,priory--now the ,close ,gate--it was burnt down during the ,barons' ,war1 and when rebuilt a small church was built above it for the use of the lay servitors of the ,priory4 ,this church is now the ,parish ,church of ,st4 ,swithun's1 ,winchester4 ,an absurd local tradition connects the name with the number of sovereigns of the realm who have passed beneath it4 ,,chapter ,x ,,norman ,,winchester ,tempora mutantur et nos mutamur in illis4 ,it is safe to say that no other event so thoroughly affected the fortunes of ,winchester as the ,norman ,conquest4 ,not only was the city completely transformed in outward form1 but its relationship to the country at large was to undergo profound modification1 and a train of political circumstance opened up the effect of which was ultimately to deprive her of the leading national position she had hitherto occupied1 and to relegate her to second if not lower rank in the national polity4 ,the decline of ,winchester was1 however1 as yet still far distant1 and the immediate result of ,norman rule was to bring ,winchester into even greater prominence than in the closing years of ,saxon rule4 ,we have spoken of ,winchester as the capital of ,saxon ,england1 and so it had been1 but not in the exclusive sense in which the word is employed nowadays4 ,in fact1 in the modern sense1 viz4 that of a permanent seat and headquarters of government1 no capital existed then at all4 ,the details of government were far less complex1 government as an art far less specialized and far less an exact science1 and its whole character took on a far more personal and direct complexion than at present1 so that while ,winchester and ,london might both correctly enough be termed capitals in the sense that the permanent symbols of rule1 the official records1 and so forth1 were kept in them1 it was in reality the king's headquarters1 wherever he might happen to be1 that formed the effective capital4 ,but though ,winchester was being1 and had been for many years past1 hard pressed by ,london1 she still retained the ,royal ,treasury1 and the state records were still kept there1 and she could therefore still claim something more than a nominal pre-eminence1 even though the growth and commercial development of ,london were rapidly diminishing her relative influence4 ,the position of ,london ,william had recognized by being crowned there1 before the ceremony had been carried out at ,winchester or elsewhere2 but other circumstances--political motives1 reasons of personal convenience1 and indeed of personal preference--drew him largely to ,winchester4 ,indeed1 when in ,england he #8wore his crown1' i4e4 held his ceremonial court1 three times a year--at ,london at ,pentecost1 at ,gloucester at ,christmas1 and at ,easter1 the leading festival of the year1 at ,winchester4 ,and both policy and convenience were largely involved in ,william's action4 ,communication was slow and difficult1 the country sparsely habited1 and government then1 even more than nowadays1 rested on prestige--the appeal to imagination4 ,william had posed as the lawful heir to the ,saxon throne2 he appealed1 whenever he could advantageously do so1 for sanction for his acts to the laws of ,cnut or ,edward the ,confessor1 and he was far too prescient a ruler to underestimate the effect produced on his ,saxon subjects1 by his sitting on the throne of his predecessors and ruling his ,saxon subjects in their historic centre of rule1 quite apart from the subtle appeal his so doing made to his own personal vanity4 ,moreover1 apart from all personal considerations1 the position of ,winchester marked it out as a natural capital--for ,england was after all but a part of his realm1 and the ,english ,channel was the bridge between it and the ,norman provinces1 with the estuaries of ,southampton and of the ,seine as the ends of the bridge4 ,indeed1 as long as the link with ,normandy remained firm1 ,winchester could hold its head up high4 ,when ,normandy fell away1 ,winchester declined also4 ,but beyond these reasons of state1 ,winchester appealed personally to the ,conqueror's passion for the chase4 ,the great forests all round it--for it was still but a clearing1 as it were1 in the great primeval forest--afforded him facilities for hunting at his convenience1 such as few other spots could offer4 ,here then he erected a royal residence1 some scanty traces of which may still be seen2 here1 very shortly after1 the inevitable sign of ,norman domination1 a great1 impregnable1 and awe-inspiring fortress was to be seen rapidly rising on the high ground in the south-western angle of the city area1 and here too--and1 we are glad to say1 almost equally inevitably--,norman culture and ,norman devotion expended themselves in raising a stately and glorious temple for the worship of ,god1 worthy alike in the dignity of its conception1 the beauty of its execution1 and the scale of grandeur on which it was carried out4 ,added to1 modified1 reconstructed or transformed1 as various of its parts have subsequently been1 it is in essential features the ,norman ,cathedral1 which is standing still1 and which is the glory of ,southern ,england to-day4 ,foremost among the questions of the time was that of ecclesiastical policy4 ,william proceeded with caution4 ,the position of ,stigand1 ,archbishop of ,canterbury1 had long been canonically irregular1 for he held ,winchester as well as ,canterbury1 and he was guilty of other irregularities also1 and so at first ,william assumed a non-committal attitude towards him4 ,he refused to permit him to officiate at his coronation1 but treated him with respect and courtesy1 until a convenient opportunity arose to depose him1 when he had him brought to trial and deprived4 ,the remaining years of his life ,stigand spent as a kind of state prisoner in ,winchester4 ,many tales are told of his hoarded wealth and his penurious habits2 a part of it1 a great crucifix of massive gold and silver1 he bestowed upon the ,cathedral4 ,he was buried within its walls1 and a figure of him has been of recent times placed in one of the niches on the great ,altar ,screen4 ,stigand's deposition made room for two notable appointments4 ,lanfranc1 perhaps the keenest intellect of the day1 certainly the foremost among ecclesiastical statesmen1 was made archbishop4 ,william ,walkelyn1 a relative1 there is some reason to believe1 of the ,conqueror1 became the first ,norman bishop of ,winchester4 ,walkelyn enjoyed a high reputation alike for learning and for personal piety4 ,the monkish author of the ,annales de ,wintonia describes him as a man 8of perfect piety and sanctity of life1 endowed with wondrous sagacity and withal of such abstinence that he eschewed both meat and fish and rarely tasted wine or mead1 and then only with extreme moderation40 ,to such a man1 imbued with the culture as well as the genius of ,norman civilization1 the ,saxon ,cathedral of thelwold--albeit barely one hundred years before it had seemed so sublime to the restricted and untutored imagination of precentor ,wulfstan--appeared meagre and quite insufficient4 ,he set to work to rebuild the ,cathedral1 and this fact alone must serve to make his name ever memorable among the ' makers of ,winchester4' ,walkelyn's building far exceeded in proportions the ,saxon one it replaced4 ,it is a moot point how far the sites of the two buildings were identical1 and a passage in the ,annales de ,wintonia seems to show they certainly were not entirely so1 though in any case they could not have differed much2 but in historic continuity1 in the dust of the early kings it preserved1 in the shrines of the saints which it displayed to the devout1 it was still the historic cathedral of the ,saxon capital1 transformed and glorified indeed on a scale of noble vastness and dignity hitherto unattempted in ,england4 ,foremost among cathedral traditions is the story of the building of the roof1 recorded in the same ,annales de ,wintonia to which reference has been several times already made1 and in them alone4 ,walkelyn had strained his resources to the full1 and still needed timber for the roof4 ,he applied accordingly to the ,conqueror for a grant of timber1 and received permission to take from one of his woods--,hempage ,wood1 near ,avington1 five miles from ,winchester--as much timber as he could fell and cart away within three days4 8,make hay while the king smiles10 was the bishop's maxim4 ,he collected a whole army of wood-cutters1 carters1 teams of horses1 and in three days removed every timber tree in the wood1 leaving one oak only1 the so-called ,gospel ,oak under which tradition reported ,augustine to have preached4 ,unwarranted as the tradition appears to have been1 it served to protect the tree1 which still stands1 though to all appearance dead1 an interesting reminder of ,walkelyn and his cathedral4 ,when ,william discovered what a sweep the bishop had made of his 8most delectable wood10 he was furious1 and was only with difficulty appeased4 8,certainly as ,i was too liberal in my grant1 so you were too exacting in the advantage you took of it10 he said1 when at length he readmitted the bishop to his presence and his favour4 ,the story acquires additional interest from the subsequent history of these huge and venerable timbers4 ,for some #hjj years they have continued to support the mighty roof1 though quite recently some of them have had to be replaced1 owing to the destructiveness of a grub--the grub of the ,sirex gigas--which had in places eaten them through and through4 ,a portion of one of these beams with a specimen of the destructive sirex can be seen in the city museum1 and curios made of this so-called #8cathedral oak'--though much of it by the way is chestnut--are being sold now for the benefit of the ,cathedral ,preservation ,fund3 thus is exemplified ,earl ,godwine's remark1 8,brother brings aid to brother40 ,two other items relative to ,walkelyn are of interest4 ,curiously enough--and it speaks eloquently for his detachment of mind and freedom from professional narrowness--he wanted at first to revoke thelwold's policy and put back secular canons for monks4 ,the monks were aghast1 and1 more important still1 ,lanfranc was hostile1 and accordingly after a struggle the bishop gave way and abandoned the project4 ,the other item is the connection between ,walkelyn and the great ,fair of ,st4 ,giles1 to which reference has been already made4 ,walkelyn persuaded ,william's son1 ,william ,rufus1 to grant him the right to a three days' ,fair1 on the hill eastward of the city1 and to apply the tolls so obtained to the erection of the ,cathedral4 ,to the development and further history of the ,fair we shall return in a later chapter4 ,the residence or #8,palace' of the ,conqueror stood in the very centre of the city1 near where the ,butter ,cross stands now1 and abutting upon the ,newan ,mynstre4 ,indeed1 to obtain room for it the monks were despoiled of part of their site4 ,interesting remains of it exist in the thick walls and the cavernous cellars of the ancient houses which now occupy the spot--the latter vividly suggestive of dungeons and of the ,isaac of ,york episode in ,scott's ,ivanhoe4 ,close at hand were the ,royal ,treasury and the ,mint1 and almost within hail were the quarters of the king's executioners1 whom he kept always ready #8laid on1' as it were--a gruesome reminder of the darker tones in which life in ,norman times was painted4 ,the rule of the ,norman ,conqueror was one which profoundly impressed the imagination both of his contemporary subjects and of succeeding generations4 ,no historical events have been more picturesquely told or more repeatedly dwelt upon than the stories of ,curfew ,bell1 of ,domesday ,book1 of the ,feudal ,system1 and of the ,new ,forest--all these centre in some form or other either round ,winchester or the immediate locality4 ,the history of ,william's reign1 as presented in our history books to children at least1 might indeed be almost entirely constructed out of ,winchester and its memorials4 ,the curfew ordinance1 ,illustration3 ,,martyr ,,worthy ,one of the old-world villages1 some few miles above ,winchester1 lying in a reach of the river ,itchen of unusual beauty and charm4 the order to extinguish fires and put out lights--probably as much a wise precaution to diminish risk of fire in crowded towns built mainly of wood as directly political in purpose1--was first promulgated here4 ,here first of all curfew was rung1 as it has rung nightly ever since4 ,formerly it rang from the little church of ,st4 ,peter in the ,shambles1 behind ,godbiete2 now it rings from the old ,guild ,hall--the ,hall1 in earlier days1 of the ,guild ,merchant of ,winchester4 ,another event which affected the popular imagination even more profoundly was the great survey of the kingdom1 the results of which were embodied in the ,domesday ,book1 so called because1 as ,rudborne says1 8it spareth no one1 just like the great ,day of ,doom40 ,the compilation of it was regarded as a great act of oppression4 8,inquisition was even made as to how many animals sufficed for the tillage of one hide of land40 ,in reality it was an act of statesmanlike administration1 the object of which was to collect accurate information for the purpose of assessing #8geld1' or dues for military service4 ,exact assessment for taxes is evidently not a modern terror merely1 nor is the modern income tax-payer the only one who has objected to inquisitorial modes of assessment4 ,winchester and ,london were omitted from ,domesday ,book altogether--an omission which was repaired1 as far as ,winchester is concerned1 in ,henry ,i4's reign1 when the ,winchester ,domesday ,book1 as it was called1 was compiled4 ,needless to say1 ,domesday ,book was merely the popular name for it2 its real name was the ,rotulus ,wintoniensis1 or ,book of ,winchester1 sometimes termed ,rotulus ,regis or ,king's ,book4 ,domesday ,book was kept at ,winchester1 and a copy of it at ,westminster4 ,the original is now in the ,rolls ,office4 ,it is certainly noteworthy that ,winchester should have given birth to the two most valuable records of national history which this country has ever possessed1 two records which no other nation can find any parallel to1 viz4 the ,english ,chronicle and the ,domesday ,book4 ,the value of the latter is that it gives us in absolutely unquestionable form the raw material of history1 unwarped by personal bias1 uncoloured by tradition4 ,by means of it we can put to exact test many of the time-honoured statements1 accepted for generation after generation without question or demur1 and in that fierce crucible many and many a legendary tradition treasured hitherto as current historical coin1 has been melted down and revealed as a spurious token merely4 ,such a one we probably have in the story already related of ,abbot ,alwyn and the monks of ,newan ,mynstre2 the story of the afforestation of the ,new ,forest is another4 ,but the ,new ,forest1 though local1 is rather beyond our scope3 the reader is referred to the fuller volume on ,hampshire for a discussion of this topic3 and1 indeed1 the story of ,norman ,winchester is full enough as it is--replete with many a thrilling scene1 many a notable historical figure4 ,william himself1 strong1 stern1 far-seeing and determined1 a leader among men1 towering head and shoulders above his contemporaries1 capable of cruelty1 hard and grasping1 indeed1 as were all who strove to rule in those stern days1 but never small or moved by petty spite4 8,he nothing common did or mean10 might almost be said of him4 ,and side by side with him1 ,lanfranc the ,italian1 smooth1 supple1 astute--like ,william1 a master mind1 a great man1 but with the greatness of the ecclesiastical statesman rather than of the saint or even the scholar2 and in sharp contrast ,walkelyn the ,norman1 the high-minded1 the conscientious1 the ascetic--a scholar and a devotee rather than a statesman2 and after these a host of minor personalities1 striking and interesting enough1 too1 in their way4 ,foremost among these stands ,waltheof1 ,earl of ,huntingdon1 son of the great ,siward1 ,earl of ,northumbria4 ,a picturesque and pathetic figure he is1 with certain virtues and high qualities all unfitted for his time4 ,poor ,waltheof--like ,saul of old1 his outward man striking and tall and goodly to look upon1--was the idol of ,william's ,saxon subjects4 ,but the fair exterior covered after all but a weak and irresolute soul1 no match for the master mind of ,william1 who read him through and through as a reader reads his book4 ,yet though in his weakness ,william despised him1 in his popularity ,william feared him1 and when denounced by his treacherous ,norman wife for the merely colourable part he had played in the ,bridal of ,norwich-- ,that bride-ale ,that was many men's bale-- ,william1 deaf to all entreaty1 kept him a close prisoner1 and finally1 at the ,pentecostal ,gemt held at ,winchester1 had sentence of death pronounced upon him4 ,swiftly and secretly the order was carried out1 and on ,may #ca1 ,st4 ,petronilla's day1 at early dawn1 while the men of ,winchester were in their beds1 ,waltheof was led out to execution on ,st4 ,giles's ,hill4 ,he came arrayed in full dress as an earl1 wearing his badges of rank1 and on reaching the place of execution knelt down to pray4 ,he continued sometime in prayer while the executioner1 fearing interruption1 grew restive and impatient4 8,wait yet a little moment10 pleaded the victim2 8let me1 at least1 say the ,lord's ,prayer for me and for thee10 and the ,earl's voice was heard uttering the petitions one by one1 till at the words1 8,lead us not into temptation10 the axe descended4 ,but1 as the severed head fell from the body1 the lips were seen still to be moving1 and the words1 8,but deliver us from evil10 were distinctly heard4 ,such is the moving account we have of ,waltheof's death4 ,the last chapter of the story belongs rather to ,crowland than to ,winchester4 ,buried in the first instance obscurely at ,winchester1 his body was later on permitted to be reinterred at ,crowland1 and1 on raising it1 the head was found to be miraculously reunited to the trunk1 a thin red line alone revealing the death he had died4 ,kingsley has told it in masterly style in ,hereward the ,wake and the episode of his false wife ,judith's visit to her husband's tomb forms a thrilling incident most picturesquely told4 ,of ,hereward himself ,winchester history is silent1 but ,kingsley1 in another striking passage1 brings him too upon our local stage1 when he rides to ,winchester to make submission to the king4 ,with his companions he rides along the ,roman road which leads still from ,silchester1 till1 from the top of the downs1 they catch sight of the city lying beneath them4 ,within the city rose the ancient ,minster ,church1 built by ,ethelwold--ancient even then--where slept the ancient kings1 ,kennulf1 ,egbert1 and ,ethelwulf1 the ,saxons2 and by them the ,danes1 ,canute the ,great and ,hardicanute his son1 and ,norman ,emma1 his wife1 and ,ethelred's before him2 and the great ,earl ,godwin1 who seemed to ,hereward to have died not twenty but two hundred years ago2 and it may be an old ,saxon hall upon the little isle1 whither ,edgar had bidden bring the heads of all the wolves in ,wessex1 where afterwards the bishops built ,wolvesey ,palace4 ,but nearer to them1 on the downs which sloped up to the west1 stood an uglier thing1 which they saw with curses deep and loud--the keep of the new ,norman castle by the west gate4 ,we will not stop to discuss this striking passage2 and though ,hereward be but a figure imported into our local history1 the castle which he saw was1 both then and for many years to come1 the most noticeable and striking feature in ,winchester1 as also the leading outward symbol of the ,norman presence and power4 ,for centuries it was to hold its place supreme1 to see one sovereign after other add and re-add to its palace1 to stand siege and battery1 to be the residence of kings and queens1 to witness the birth of more than one heir to the throne1 to gather within its walls councils and parliaments4 ,for #fjj years it was to endure till ,cromwell laid siege to it1 and then razed it to the ground1 all save the great ,hall1 built in ,plantagenet days1 by ,henry ,,iii4 which still remains glorious in its associations as in the beauty of its proportions4 ,yes1 ,hereward and his companions might utter curses loud and deep1 for the rebirth of the nation1 which the ,norman period heralded1 was not accomplished without much labour and travail1 both of body and of spirit2 but could he have looked forward1 as we can look back1 upon all that ,norman rule has been the stepping-stone to1 both in ,winchester and elsewhere1 he would have found1 like the unwilling prophet of old1 a blessing on his lips and not a curse1 and we too shall be ready to offer up our ,te ,deum in a spirit of thankfulness1 earnest and sincere1 though the appropriate accompaniment to it be rather a subdued strain1 and in a minor key1 than an unbroken outburst of triumphal joy4 ,,chapter ,,xi ,,later ,,norman ,,days ,they shot him dead on the ,nine-stone ,brig ,beside the ,headless ,cross1 ,and they left him lying in his blood ,upon the moor and moss4 ,,barthram',s ,dirge4 ,when ,william the ,conqueror died1 the link with ,normandy was temporarily severed1 and during the reign of ,rufus of evil memory ,winchester declined in political importance2 nor1 apart from one or two episodes1 are the ,winchester memories of the reign of a striking character4 ,it witnessed1 indeed1 the practical completion of ,walkelyn's life-work--the great cathedral--as well as the institution of ,st4 ,giles's ,fair1 as already mentioned1 but these belong in essence1 though not in time1 rather to the epoch of the ,conqueror than to that of his violent-minded successor4 ,most characteristic of all events of the reign was the long-drawn-out struggle between ,rufus and ,archbishop ,anselm--8the fierce young bull and the old sheep10 as ,anselm himself had in dismal prognostication dubbed them4 ,on ,lanfranc's death in #ajhi ,william kept the see vacant for several years1 as was his practice in matters of church preferment1 in the meantime shamelessly appropriating the temporalities of the see2 and when as a result of a dangerous illness he at last agreed to appoint a successor1 it was only with extreme reluctance and forebodings of ill that ,anselm was at last prevailed on to accept the king's nomination4 ,anselm's fears were fully justified1 and a state of hopeless strife soon existed between the two4 ,to all ,anselm's demands1 particularly his demand to go to ,rome for investiture1 the king returned an inflexible refusal1 until a crisis was reached at a great council held in ,winchester1 memorable as the last personal meeting between the king and the archbishop4 ,every form of pressure was brought to bear on ,anselm2 he refused1 as a matter of conscience1 to give way1 and finally announced his intention of going to ,rome without the king's sanction1 as he could not go with it4 ,the king raged and stormed in vain1 till ,anselm1 as he turned to leave the royal presence1 begged permission to give him his blessing4 8,i refuse not thy blessing10 said the king1 somewhat subdued2 he inclined his head1 and ,anselm signed the sign of the cross over him4 ,they never met again4 ,the last scene of all in the reign is1 however1 ,winchester's most dramatic1 as well as tragic1 recollection4 ,on the afternoon of ,lammas ,day 7,august #a71 #aajj1 news came to ,winchester that the ,red ,king1 who had been hunting that day in the ,new ,forest1 had ,illustration3 ,,watersplash ,,at ,,itchen ,,stoke ,perhaps the prettiest reach of the river ,itchen--and that is saying a good deal--lying between ,itchen ,stoke and ,ovington4 ,the road between them crosses the main stream in a delightful #8watersplash4' there met a violent death4 ,prince ,henry1 his younger brother1 with his followers had spurred into the city bringing the tidings1 had seized the ,royal ,treasure1 and had summoned the ,witan to pronounce him king4 ,meanwhile the ,red ,king's body1 alone and untended1 lay weltering in blood on the spot where he had fallen1 till a charcoal-burner1 ,purkess by name1 travelling along had found it and placed it in his cart1 that the poor remains might at least have decent sepulture in the cathedral of the diocese4 ,as the news spread in the city an eager throng gathered and watched the road to await the sorry funeral cortge1 as it made its mournful way1 probably along the road from ,compton through the south gate1 and so into the old monastery4 ,the interment took place the very next day1 right under the tower--8on the ,thursday he was slain1 and on the morning after buried02 and when a few years later the ,norman tower fell upon the tomb1 men said it was the ,red ,king's crimes and not structural weakness that had occasioned the fall4 ,his bones were transferred later on to one of the mortuary chests on the side screens of the choir1 but popular tradition still points to a tomb beneath the tower as the tomb where he was originally buried1 and speaks of it as ,rufus's ,tomb4 ,and now1 with ,henry on the throne1 ,winchester resumed its former political importance4 ,henry reunited the ,norman provinces to ,england1 and the old activity of intercourse across the seas was resumed4 ,but more than that1 ,henry identified himself with the city more closely than any king has ever done before or since4 ,his romantic marriage with the ,saxon princess ,eadgyth1 of ,romsey ,abbey1 grand-daughter of ,edmund ,ironside1 made him popular1 and after his marriage he and his queen--the good queen ,molde the people called her--made ,winchester ,castle their residence1 and here their son ,william1 the ill-fated hero of the ,white ,ship tragedy1 was born4 ,with its old political position restored1 and the king reigning and residing here in person1 ,winchester rose to the zenith of its importance in ,norman days4 ,a number of events of interest are identified with this reign4 ,first and foremost1 the birth of ,hyde ,abbey4 ,newan ,mynstre1 the pious offspring of ,alfred and ,edward the ,elder1 had since the translation of ,swithun's bones1 during thelwold's rgime1 steadily declined in importance1 and its activity had been much hampered4 ,the proximity to the older and more extensive foundation1 which eclipsed and overshadowed it in importance1 was one cause2 another was the cramped nature of the site upon which the ,new ,minster had been erected4 ,always small and confined1 so close were their respective churches that chanting in one disturbed the devotions in the other4 ,the erection of ,william the ,conqueror's palace had made matters still worse1 and the monks had had to forego a portion of their already over-congested area4 ,under these circumstances ,william ,giffard1 who had succeeded ,walkelyn as ,bishop of ,winchester1 obtained from ,henry permission to move the monastery to the village of ,hyde in the northern suburbs of the city1 and here near ,danemark ,mead1 where ,guy of ,warwick was said to have vanquished ,colbrand the ,dane1 the new structure was commenced4 ,the immediate result was highly satisfactory4 ,the monks of ,st4 ,swithun's1 who also had suffered from the over-close proximity and congestion1 as well as from the rivalry of its over-close neighbour1 heartily co-operated and granted the site for the new abbey4 ,old rivalries were allayed1 and for a time a spirit of cordiality prevailed1 while as a means of raising funds to assist both houses the king's grant of a three days' fair was added to1 and an extension given for five additional days1 making eight altogether4 ,in #aaaj all was ready1 and the monks of ,newan ,mynstre proceeded in solemn procession to take possession of their new home1 bearing with them their sacred relics--the great cross of gold given by ,cnut and ,emma1 and the remains of their illustrious dead1 ,alfred and ,alswitha and their son ,edward1 for reinterment in the glorious new ,abbey ,church4 ,newan ,mynstre had so far lasted for some #bjj years2 now it entered on a new and amplified existence--an existence destined to endure for over #djj years1 during which1 as ,hyde ,abbey1 it was to maintain a proud and exalted position among the monasteries of the land1 till ,henry ,,viii4's commissioners dissolved and swept it away1 leaving what is now a scanty ruin merely--a gateway and little else--to speak of the former glories of the once famous foundation of ,alfred the ,great4 ,of interest and importance only second to that of the erection of ,hyde ,abbey was the appointment of the bishop1 ,henry of ,blois1 who succeeded to the see on the death of ,william ,giffard in #aabi--;a man of high birth and extreme eminence1 who was to play a leading part both in the national fortunes and in the fortunes of the city for over forty years4 ,his career we shall deal with more fully in the next chapter4 ,as to the condition of ,winchester in ,henry's reign we have fortunately sources of exact and unusually ample information4 ,from the ,domesday ,survey of ,william the ,conqueror1 ,winchester and ,london had been entirely omitted4 ,henry gave orders for a ,winchester ,domesday1 as it is sometimes termed1 to be compiled--a survey limited1 it is true1 to the king's lands1 that is1 the lands in ,winchester paying land-tax and brug-tax 7the latter a tax of uncertain nature1 perhaps dues on brewing74 ,this was supplemented by a second survey made some years after by order of ,bishop ,henry of ,blois2 and the results of the two surveys are of peculiar importance and interest1 for though the church properties are left entirely unnoticed1 we glean from it knowledge1 not only of the streets and properties1 but also of the occupations and handicrafts1 et hoc genus omne1 of ,norman ,winchester4 ,the mode of taking the census was peculiar4 ,eighty-six of the leading burghers were empanelled and sworn to hold a grand inquest1 and to return a faithful verdict4 ,from their labours we gather not only that the ,norman city1 in its general ground plan1 its walls1 gates1 and the dispositions of its streets1 reproduced very closely many of the features of the original city erected by the ,romans1 but that that general character has remained practically undisturbed to the present day4 ,the main artery and commercial thoroughfare was then1 as now1 the ,high ,street1 referred to only indirectly in the census as ,vicus ,magnus4 ,nearly all the other streets crossed it at right angles and were named after the different trades followed in them2 and we gather that in ,winchester1 as in all other mediaeval towns1 each trade had its own special street or quarter1 and their general disposition was somewhat according to the scheme annexed4 ,some few of these names linger still1 though practically all the special industries have long since disappeared4 ,minster ,street has survived and for obvious reasons1 ,sildwortenestret and ,bucchestrete have survived to modern times in ,silver ,hill and ,busket ,lane respectively1 while ,gere ,street or ,gar ,street1 curiously enough1 survives1 though all but unrecognisably1 in ,trafalgar ,street4 ,the list of the trades alone is lengthy and varied1 and in itself a telling testimony to the prosperity of the city at the time4 ,the occupations of cloth-weaving1 tailoring1 tanning1 remind us of the great industry of the district--sheep-rearing--the wool and other products of which formed the staple attraction for continental merchants to throng to the city ,illustration3 ,westgate4 ,the ,castle4 ---- ,snidelingestret 7or ,tailors' ,street71 now ,westgate ,lane4 ,gerestret 7or ,gar ,street1 ---- ,bredenestret 7now ,staple ,gardens74 now ,trafalgar ,street74 ,here later on the ,wool ,staple was placed4 ,goldestret 7or ,gold ,street1 ---- ,scowertenestret 7,shoe-waremen's now ,southgate ,street74 ,street or ,cobblers' ,street71 now ,jewry ,street4 ,the ,jewish ,ghetto was here--hence its present name4 ,calpestret 7or ,st4 ,thomas's ---- ,alwarenestret 7,all-wares-men's ,street74 ,street or ,drapers' ,street71 7now disappeared74 ,menstrestret 7now ,little ---- ,flesmangerestret 7,flesh-mongers' ,minster ,street74 ,street or ,butchers' ,shambles71 now ,st4 ,peter's ,street4 ,the ,monastic ,quarter4 ---- ,sildwortenestret 7or ,shieldware-men's ,street71 now ,upper ,brook ,street4 ,the name survives in ,silver ,hill4 -- ,wenegerestret 7or ,wongar ,street71 now ,middle ,brooks4 -- ,tannerestrete 7or ,tanners' ,on this side also was ,street71 now ,lower ,brook ,colobrochestret 7or ,colebrook ,street4 ,street74 ,close by was the #a;,hantachenesle1 the quarters -- ,bucchestrete 7near ,eastgate74 of one of the #8,gilds4' ,eastgate4 during the fairs of ,st4 ,giles4 ,the shieldmakers reflect its military importance1 and the goldsmiths the rank and material wealth of those for whom it catered4 ,naturally enough1 many other interesting details are to be gathered incidentally1 e4g4 the names of the inhabitants1 among which many names still familiar as distinctively ,winchester names are to be found1 and their various ranks and occupations4 ,we read1 for instance1 of a market near the three minsters1 of which the present ,market ,street is a survival2 of #8estals1' or stalls1 in the ,high ,street1 a reference with a curious modern echo1 inasmuch as the stalls in the ,high ,street and ,broadway have been quite recently the source of much local heart-burning and contention2 of #8escheopes1' or shops1 which had belonged to the ,confessor's queen1 ,edith2 of reeves 7prepositi71 and of a #8stret bidel' 7or street beadle74 ,one curious entry relative to ,eastgate speaks of certain steps which gave access to the church above the gate 7qd grad ad ascendend ad ecclam sup port71 showing that ,king's ,gate was not alone among the city gates in having a little church above it4 ,another important feature we gain information on is the position of the ,gilds4 ,these trade organisations had now become important and fully organised2 they served for the protection of their members1 they made regulations for the conduct of the several trades1 and their headquarters were used as clubs or places for general meeting and discussion--the latter including almost as a sine qua non ale-drinking1 and that not always in moderation4 ,the ,survey contains references to three halls or #8gild' headquarters--,lachenictahalla 7or chenictes' hall7 near ,westgate1 the ,chenichetehalla near ,eastgate 7on the site of the present ,st4 ,john's ,rooms71 and the ,hantachenesle in ,colebrook ,street4 ,what the very obscure term ,hantachenesle1 applied to the last named1 means is a problem on which so far no satisfactory light has been thrown4 ,nor is it clear who the #8cnechts' or #8chenictes' were--whether1 as is generally assumed1 they were #8knights1' i4e4 young men of rank1 or #8cnechts1' i4e4 sons of burghers not yet admitted to the #8,freedom4' ,we read that at the ,chenichetehalla1 the #8chenictes' drank their gild 7chenictehalla ubi chenictes potabant ,gildam suam71 and at the ,hantachenesle the #8approved' or freemen drank theirs 7,hantachenesle 444 ubi pbi homis ,went potabant ,gild su74 ,that this beer-drinking was often inordinate we gather from various contemporary references1 such as ,anselm's rebuke of a certain monk who was given to frequenting the gilds and drinking deeply3 in multis inordinate se agit et maxime in bibendo ut in gildis cum ebriosis bibat4 ,there is also a reference to a #8,gihald' or #8,gihalla'--possibly a #8,gild' ,hall1--and the ,pipe ,rolls of this reign mention a ,tailors' ,gild1 and a ,chepemanesela1 or ,chapman's ,hall4 ,the whole subject of these gilds1 as well as of their halls1 is one of great obscurity1 and the references in the ,winton ,surveys1 full of interest as they are1 serve rather to whet our curiosity than to actually solve any problems they suggest4 ,illustration3 ,,easton ,a typical ,itchen valley village1 one of the most picturesque in the county1 with an old ,norman church1 quaint thatched cottages1 and clipped yews4 ,but whatever their exact function and organisation at the time1 from them the important ,merchant ,gild grew1 and its hall in ,high ,street 7on the site occupied now by the old ,guildhall7 was the centre for many years of corporate and civic rule1 till the erection some forty years ago of the present and more pretentious ,guildhall in the ,broadway4 ,the whole circumstances of this so-called ,winton ,domesday are of unusual interest4 ,the original ,,mss4 exist1 bound in an ancient leather binding1 considered to be the work of contemporary ,winchester craftsmen4 ,these are now the property of the ,society of ,antiquaries4 ,significant among other features of the mediaeval city was the ,jewish quarter1 or ,ghetto1 a survival of which we have in the present ,jewry ,street1 at that time ,scowertene ,street4 ,abutting on this1 in the rear of what are now the extensive premises of the ,george ,hotel1 dwelt the ,jewish community1 with a synagogue of its own1 for the ,jews were not merely tolerated here1 but actually welcomed4 ,the extensive commercial relations now rapidly developing between ,winchester and the ,continent were doubtless responsible for this1 and the ,jew in his ancient prescriptive capacity of banker was found to be an effective ally in building up the commercial importance of the rapidly developing city4 ,references to the ,jews at ,winchester are fairly frequent all through the next two centuries1 the period of ,winchester's commercial prosperity4 ,in ,richard ,i4's reign ,richard of ,devizes tells us of a ,lombard ,jew lending money to the ,priory of ,st4 ,swithun1 and lamenting the leniency shown to them by ,winchester2 while later on in the thirteenth century we read of a ,jew--8,benedict1 a son of ,abraham0--being actually granted the full freedom of the city4 ,these facts reveal to us the scope and the importance held by the ,winchester of mediaeval times as an emporium and centre of commerce of more than local repute4 ,but we are anticipating1 and we must now return4 ,the remaining distinctive feature of the city to be noted was the monastic quarter1 which occupied practically the whole area between ,high ,street1 ,calpe ,street1 and the outer city wall4 ,foremost in importance was the great ,convent of ,st4 ,swithun's--its great cathedral church forming its effective boundary to the north1 its great gate opening into ,swithun ,street close to the little postern gate or ,king's ,gate1 and with the south-eastern edge of the city wall as its southern limit4 ,behind it1 eastward1 was the bishop's residence--,wolvesey1 the ancient court of the ,saxon kings--and flanking ,high ,street at the eastern end was ,nunna ,mynstre1 or ,st4 ,mary's ,abbey1 part of the revenues of which were derived from the tolls or octroi duties levied on commodities entering the ,east ,gate4 ,such then1 in bare outline1 was the ,winchester of ,henry's reign--not without its miseries1 its injustices1 it is true1 but1 as the times went1 busy1 prosperous1 and developing4 ,but this state of things was not to endure for long4 ,henry's heir1 ,william1 had perished in the ,white ,ship2 and though he had done all he could to avert it1 the land was to be shortly handed over to a disputed succession and the horrors of civil war when he died4 ,winchester has good reason to cherish the memory of ,henry ,i4 and to recall his reign with satisfaction4 ,he died in #aace1 and was buried in ,reading ,abbey1 which he had himself founded4 ,,chapter ,,xii ,a ,,great ,,bishop1 ,,henry ,,of ,,blois ,let us now praise famous men4444 ,it was he that took thought for his people that they should not fall ,and fortified the city against besieging4 ,ecclesiasticus4 ,great as has been the part played by kings in the history of our city1 that played by bishops has been even greater still1 and few among the makers of ,winchester hold a more prominent or more honourable place than the great bishop who had succeeded to the see a few years before ,henry ,i4's death1 ,henry of ,blois1 brother of ,stephen of ,blois1 now king of ,england1 whose fortunes were to be closely linked during the two following reigns with those of our city4 ,a scheming statesman and an ardent churchman1 he was to play a leading part in national affairs in the troublous times that were to follow--to direct his see for over forty years1 and to leave indelible marks of his occupancy in the see and the city alike1 of which ,st4 ,cross ,hospital1 ,wolvesey ruins1 the ,cathedral font and portions of its fabric are but some of the most notable and most enduring4 ,and the times were troublous indeed4 ,the ,white ,ship tragedy had bereft not only the king of his heir1 but the nation of a male claimant to the throne in the direct line1 and all ,henry's influence was insufficient to secure the crown for his daughter ,matilda1 the widowed ,empress of ,germany4 ,the feeling of the time was adverse to having a female as sovereign2 and ,stephen of ,blois1 ,henry's nephew1 actively championed by ,bishop ,henry1 and strongly supported by the barons1 bore down all active opposition4 ,but king though he was1 ,stephen's personal position was very different from that of his ,norman predecessors4 ,brave and frank1 but personally easy-going1 dependent1 moreover1 on the goodwill of the powerful interests which had placed him on the throne1 his authority was weak and his hold on his subjects ineffective4 ,barons and bishops strengthened themselves against him1 and an era of castle-building commenced1 which was to usher in a period of more terrible oppression than the country has ever witnessed before or since1 for1 secure in their strongholds1 the ,norman barons fastened themselves on the defenceless countryfolk like vultures on their prey1 and there was none to make them relax their hold4 ,as the ,chronicle says3 ,they filled the land with castles and they cruelly oppressed the wretched folk with castle works4 ,when the castles were made they filled them with devils and evil men4 ,when took they the men who they thought any goods to have both by night and by day1 churls and women1 they cast them in prison for their gold and silver1 and they tortured them with pains untellable--for never were any martyrs so tortured as they were4 ,they hanged them up by the feet and smoked them with foul smoke--they hanged them by the thumbs or by the head and hanged fires upon their feet4444 ,many thousands they killed with hunger4444 ,then was corn dear and flesh1 cheese and butter1 for none there was in the land4444 ,and they said openly that ,christ slept and his saints4 ,such was the anarchy1 such the ruin1 which weak rule had brought upon the realm4 ,prominent among the castle-builders--though not among the oppressors--were certain of the bishops1 and none more so than ,bishop ,henry4 ,the bishop's residence at ,wolvesey1 the ancient seat of ,alfred and the ,saxon kings1 he converted into a strong ,norman fortress1 the ruins of which still stand1 while at ,merdon 7near ,hursley1 some five miles from the city71 at ,bishop's ,waltham1 and at ,farnham1 he reared fortresses also4 ,thus ,winchester became remarkable in one respect--it had two fortress castles instead of one1 a privilege it was later on to pay dearly for4 ,but ,bishop ,henry had other schemes too4 ,of royal birth1 reared in the atmosphere of church ascendancy in the great and ambitious house of ,cluny1 and naturally masterful in temperament1 he was aiming at higher rank and wider influence4 ,bishop of ,winchester though he was1 and ,abbot of ,glastonbury--for by special papal sanction he had been allowed to hold this valuable and influential office alike with his bishopric--there was still the archbishopric before him1 and when in #aacf this fell vacant he seemed by every natural claim to be marked out for it2 but ,stephen had begun to feel his brother's yoke growing heavy on him1 and after some long delay ,bishop ,henry was passed by and ,theobald1 ,abbot of ,bec1 appointed4 ,henry was deeply mortified2 and though the ,pope soon after appointed him as ,papal ,legate over ,archbishop ,theobald's head1 his wounded pride never forgot the affront it had received4 ,disappointed of his hopes of ,canterbury he worked hard to persuade the ,pope to divide ,england into three provinces instead of two1 with ,winchester diocese as the third archbishopric2 and though not actually successful in this1 the ,pope is said to have encouraged him in his project4 ,while matters were thus strained between the bishop and the king1 ,stephen1 who had witnessed with alarm the growth of the castle-building and the power of the barons1 determined to enforce his authority upon them4 ,he called on several of the bishops to surrender their castles1 and1 being met by refusal1 treated the ,bishops of ,lincoln and ,salisbury with such cruelty and personal indignity that the latter died from the hardships inflicted on him4 ,this act of unparalleled folly--for the person of a bishop was regarded as sacred--not only estranged public sympathy1 but fanned to active flame the smouldering resentment of ,bishop ,henry4 ,as ,papal ,legate he summoned ,stephen to answer for his conduct before him at a council held at ,winchester1 and here the king was not only condemned1 but even obliged to do penance4 ,stephen's position was gravely compromised1 and ,matilda's supporters1 who had long bided their time1 broke into active opposition4 ,robert1 ,earl of ,gloucester1 her half-brother1 took up arms in her behalf2 ,matilda landed at ,arundel2 and ,stephen in fighting at ,lincoln was taken prisoner4 ,such an event seemed a token from heaven4 ,bishop ,henry openly espoused ,matilda's cause2 he proclaimed her at ,winchester as 8,lady of the ,english40 ,the city opened its gates to her1 and she marched in in triumphal procession with all her forces and took possession of the ,castle1 while the occasion was celebrated by a solemn service of rejoicing in the ,cathedral4 ,but this state of things was not to last4 ,arrogant and impracticable1 she quickly alienated her own supporters1 and finding the bishop by no means subservient1 as she had expected1 she summoned him to yield up his ,castle of ,wolvesey to her1 to which summons he is said to have enigmatically replied1 8,i will prepare myself10 and this he did4 ,he repaired and strengthened his ,castle and threw his influence again into the scale of ,stephen4 ,thus civil war broke out once more1 and for six years the country was torn again by every kind of evil and oppression4 ,in these troubles ,winchester1 placed1 as it were1 between anvil and hammer1 with the empress-queen in the ,castle and the bishop at ,wolvesey1 suffered terribly4 ,raid and counter-raid1 siege and counter-siege succeeded one another1 till almost the whole city--houses1 churches1 monasteries alike--were consumed in the flames4 ,alswitha's foundation1 ,nunna ,mynstre1 or ,st4 ,mary's ,abbey1 parish ,illustration3 ,,the ,,deanery1 ,,winchester ,one of the few remaining links with the conventual buildings of ,st4 ,swithun's ,priory1 which among the ,benedictines were always placed on the south side of the minster4 ,formerly it was the quarters of the ,prior of ,st4 ,swithun's4 ,philip of ,spain was lodged here when he came to ,winchester to marry ,queen ,mary of ,england4 churches1 domestic buildings1 all alike perished4 ,far and wide the flames spread--even the new building of ,hyde ,abbey1 only erected some thirty-one years1 was involved in the general conflagration4 ,the ,cathedral and ,st4 ,swithun's ,priory alone escaped1 and that1 it is said1 because ,robert of ,gloucester generously forbore reprisals4 ,but the empress's cause was a declining one1 and though ,david1 king of ,scotland1 and ,robert of ,gloucester stoutly attacked ,wolvesey1 it held out till relieved by ,queen ,matilda in person1 and it was now the empress's turn to suffer siege in the ,castle4 ,various accounts are given of what occurred2 in one it is stated#b that1 being straitened for provisions1 she escaped by feigning herself dead1 and was carried out in a coffin4 ,be this as it may1 her forces were routed--she fled1 and both ,robert of ,gloucester and ,king ,david were taken prisoners4 ,finally1 the war exhausted itself4 ,the land was ruined1 impoverished--nothing seemed left to strive for4 ,peace was made on terms of compromise1 and ,king ,stephen1 restored to the throne1 entered ,winchester with the empress's son1 ,prince ,henry1 who was acknowledged as his heir4 ,stephen died soon after1 and ,henry ,,ii4 became king4 ,and now matters went badly for ,bishop ,henry4 ,henry the king was determined to bring the castle-builders to book1 and ,henry the bishop was a foremost offender1 and in addition he had to defend himself from charges brought against him by the monks of ,hyde4 ,in marked contrast with his behaviour elsewhere1 ,bishop ,henry had acted oppressively against them1 and when their abbey was destroyed he had even forced from them the ashes to which it had been reduced4 ,no slight treasure the latter1 for did they not contain the molten remains of cross and shrine and chalice1 the cross of ,cnut and ,emma1 their great prize and possession1 and many another treasure1 which though now but molten metal1 still reckoned a value in thousands of pounds8 ,fortune was against the bishop1 and he found it convenient to retire abroad1 to ,cluny and elsewhere1 for a time1 while the new king established his authority1 made order in the distracted kingdom1 and razed the offending fortresses to the ground4 ,thus while the bishop's palace at ,wolvesey still remained1 the ,norman keep was dismantled and rendered harmless1 and some of these ruins we can see there to-day4 ,the succeeding years were to present ,bishop ,henry in a less ambitious and altogether more attractive light4 ,he had played for his great stake--played and lost3 his legatine commission had expired1 his archiepiscopal dream had rudely disappeared4 ,his political power shattered1 and his personal influence largely compromised1 he was glad to make peace with the king and full restitution to the monks of ,hyde1 and he returned to his see to spend the last portion of his life--some fifteen or sixteen years--in acts of quiet episcopal rule and active beneficence4 ,during his stay on the ,continent he had amassed many treasures of art1 and these he brought back with him--very probably the wonderful and curious black stone font1 one of a rare series of seven ,english fonts1 four of which are in our own county and diocese1 was placed by him in the ,cathedral at this time4 ,but a far nobler and more noticeable monument he was already rearing for himself in the outskirts of the city4 ,some mile down the valley1 in the little village then known as ,sperkforde1 he had1 in the early days of ,stephen's reign1 commenced to build a hospital or almshouse--the ,hospital of ,st4 ,cross--and to this he now devoted himself4 ,filled as the land then was with misery and ruin1 relief of the hungry and distressed was a peculiarly pressing need1 and the bishop's aim was to relieve distress4 ,following the hospitable example of the great ,clugniac house in which he had been reared1 the gates of ,st4 ,cross were to be ever open1 ready to give kindly welcome to all who should enter there in want4 ,thirteen aged brethren were to be maintained in ease and comfort4 ,one hundred of the poor of ,winchester were to be regularly fed there in the 8,hundred ,mennes ,hall10 and seven poor ,grammar ,school boys of ,winchester--for ,winchester had its ,grammar ,school then1 earlier even than the ,college of ,wykeham--were likewise to be fed and provided for daily4 ,in #aaeg ,bishop ,henry committed the guardianship of his hospital to the ,knights of ,st4 ,john of ,jerusalem1 the ,knights ,hospitallers as they were called1 whose special care was to aid wandering men1 particularly the poor pilgrims visiting the ,holy ,sepulchre4 ,and so the brethren of ,st4 ,cross wear the black gown and the eight-pointed silver cross of the ,knights of ,st4 ,john to this day4 ,st4 ,cross is ,bishop ,henry's great memorial4 ,he lived to see it firmly established1 but otherwise in his later years he took but little part in public affairs4 ,one of his last acts was to receive his cousin1 the repentant ,king ,henry1 after the murder of ,becket1 when he bade him welcome him with affectionate admonition and gave him his blessing4 ,he died in #aaga and was buried in the ,cathedral2 the tomb popularly designated ,william ,rufus's ,tomb has been thought to be his4 ,great and high-minded as a churchman1 he had lived through the period of personal striving--8the fever1 and the watching1 and the pain0 of self-advancement and of worldly ambition4 ,his selfish schemes had died and nobler ones had succeeded1 which revealed the man at his greatest and his best4 ,truly it might be said of him-- ,that men may rise on stepping-stones ,of their dead selves to higher things4 ,and ,st4 ,cross1 at whose gates the needy wayfarer still receives hospitable welcome as he did in ,bishop ,henry's day1 flourishes still1 exercising a far wider measure of beneficence and power for good than its founder1 in all probability1 anticipated or even dreamed4 ,,chapter ,,xiii ,,angevin ,,and ,,plantagenet ,ay1 that approves thee1 tyrant1 what thou art1 ,no father1 king1 or shepherd of thy realm2 ,but one that tears her entrails with thy hands1 ,and like a thirsty tiger suck'st her blood4 ,edward ,,iii4 ,we need not stay to discuss in much detail the course of events during the reigns which followed4 ,it was but a blackened and ruined ,winchester which emerged from the disasters of the civil war4 ,with two monasteries1 some twenty churches1 and most of the domestic dwellings consumed1 it took her all her energies to reconstruct the desolate fabric2 nor did she ever completely recover the blow4 ,hyde ,abbey was at once recommenced1 and gradually1 but only very gradually1 resumed its former importance4 ,st4 ,mary's ,abbey1 too1 was rebuilt1 and ,winchester1 as the natural centre of the wool trade1 was able steadily to recover her commercial activity1 and managed to retain her importance as a centre of traffic and intercourse some two hundred years or more longer1 but politically her supremacy had departed for ever1 and ,london henceforth was more and more to hold unchallenged sway4 ,henry ,,ii4's visits in ,winchester were not frequent1 and in addition were but casual4 ,it was here1 while recovering from illness1 that he matured his great scheme for the administration of justice1 the division of the country into circuits with itinerating judges of assize1 to hold assizes or sittings for the due dispensation of the king's justice1 from which circumstance ,hampshire has always occupied a foremost position in the assize list1 but ,winchester was in no sense his capital4 ,richard ,i4 paid the city the compliment of coming here after his release from captivity to be crowned in the ,cathedral1 and though at the royal banquet following thereon the citizens of ,winchester strove with those of ,london for the honour of serving the king with wine--a privilege involving the reversion of the golden goblet in which the wine was to be served--their claims were overruled and ,london bore off the prize4 ,more important were the building projects of the ,bishop of ,winchester1 ,bishop ,godfrey de ,lucy1 who had succeeded to the see the year before ,richard came to the throne4 ,the pilgrim stream which flowed through ,winchester had swollen to such proportions as to embarrass the monks of ,st4 ,swithun's4 ,bishop ,godfrey formed a confraternity to raise funds and carry out an extension eastward of the fabric1 to make it possible for the pilgrims to visit the shrine of the saint without invading the body of the church1 an extension which1 owing to the limited area of firm ground on which the ,cathedral stood1 had to be made on an artificial foundation1 in peaty and waterlogged soil1 and to this fact must be in part attributed the insecurity of the fabric1 which has necessitated the enormous and heroic labour of repair now actively in progress4 ,of this1 however1 more anon4 ,but ,bishop ,godfrey de ,lucy had wider aims also4 ,as bishop and receiver of the dues from ,st4 ,giles's ,fair1 the commercial prosperity of the city was of great moment to him1 and he improved and developed the ,itchen navigation by means of a canal--or 8barge river10 as it is termed--and constructed a huge reservoir at ,alresford1 much of which remains still as ,alresford ,pond1 to retain the water necessary to keep the channel full4 ,the trade of ,winchester was evidently still a highly valuable asset4 ,of ,king ,john's reign we have memories in keeping with the general course of his doings4 ,he was frequently here1 hunting regularly in the forests all round the city1 and here his son and successor1 ,henry of ,winchester1 afterwards ,henry ,,iii41 was born4 ,it was at ,winchester that ,john received ,simon ,langton and the other bishops exiled during the interdict1 and in the chapter-house of the ,cathedral that he received the papal absolution for his offences against ,holy ,church4 ,but the peace thus dishonourably ushered in was of short duration1 and a year or so later ,winchester was in foreign hands1 being held by ,louis1 ,dauphin of ,france1 whom the barons had invited over to expel ,john from the throne4 ,but when ,john died1 as he did shortly afterwards1 the barons withdrew their support from the ,dauphin1 and ,john's son ,henry1 then a lad of nine years old only1 ascended the throne--,henry ,,iii41 ,henry of ,winchester4 ,we cannot give in full the story of ,henry1 interesting and important as it is1 and intimately associated as much of it was with our city2 for ,henry was here continually1 he made it his chief residence1 and in the years that followed ,winchester had often reason to pay dear for his attachment to his parent city4 ,wild disorder1 riot and revel1 profuse expenditure and pinch of consequent poverty1 anarchy and siege and civil warfare in her streets1 all followed in turn1 till order was at last evolved1 and dignified and noble parliaments assembled in her ,castle ,hall1 the symbol of the reign of law that was to follow1 and the earnest of that rule by representative assembly which has made our nation--and almost ,winchester herself--the mother of parliaments1 honoured through the length and breadth of the world4 ,chequered as the reign was to be1 the early years were quiet and prosperous1 till ,henry's evil genius1 ,peter de ,rupibus1 ,bishop of ,winchester1 gained ascendancy over the king4 ,the king's marriage to a ,french princess1 ,eleanor of ,provence1 followed1 and the king1 under the influence of a foreign wife1 and a prelate and justiciar of alien sympathies1 entered on a ,illustration3 ,,cheyney ,,court ,,and ,,close ,,gate1 ,,winchester ,the outermost #8court1' if such a term may be used1 of the ,cathedral ,close1 from which the great ,close ,gate gives access to ,swithun's ,street and ,king's ,gate4 ,the ,close ,gate is guarded by a porter1 as in mediaeval days1 who locks and unlocks it regularly by night and day4 ,near ,cheyney ,court stands part of the old #8,guesten ,hall1' where poor pilgrims to the ,shrine of ,st4 ,swithun used to be lodged4 ,weird tales of ghostly visitors haunting the ,close are told by persons still living4 ,the name ,cheyney appears to be derived from the ,french chne1 an oak4 reckless course of extravagance and anti-national policy which estranged all his subjects' sympathies4 ,to all posts of honour and preferment1 whether civil or ecclesiastical1 foreign claimants were preferred1 and the land groaned under the tyranny of alien domination1 while its resources were being drained away from it to provide revenues for foreign beneficiaries abroad4 ,protest after protest1 discontent1 active opposition1 ridicule1 and remonstrance were all in vain4 ,the king was once significantly asked by the witty ,roger ,bacon what dangers by sea a skilful pilot would most avoid1 and on evading the question was told #8,petrae et rupes' 7stones and rocks71 a faintly-veiled allusion to the chief influence for evil in the state4 ,but all was in vain1 and at last armed opposition could no longer be prevented1 and the barons under ,simon de ,montfort broke out into open revolt4 ,in the ,barons' ,war which followed1 ,hampshire and ,winchester were intimately involved4 ,it has been the fate of ,winchester1 almost from early ,saxon days1 to have within more than one rallying point for popular sympathy1 and so to suffer peculiarly at all crises of national division2 and so it was now4 ,few in the land had suffered more acutely from the king's policy of preferring aliens than the monks of ,st4 ,swithun1 and when the ,barons' ,war broke out the monks of the convent sided strongly with ,de ,montfort4 ,the citizens1 however1 held loyally to the king1 and thus it came about that when in ,may #abfd1 a few days before the battle of ,lewes1 ,de ,montfort marched against the city1 the citizens rose against the convent1 fearing lest the monks1 who controlled part of the walls and the ,king's ,gate1 should welcome the invaders and admit them to the city4 ,a violent attack was made on them1 the ,close ,gate was burnt down1 and the invading citizens burst their way in and slew several of the monks4 ,the fire spread to the ,king's ,gate and burnt it down2 and when later on the gate was rebuilt1 the monks of ,st4 ,swithun built above it a little church for the use of the lay servitors of the convent1 and so the little church--now the parish church of ,st4 ,swithun's1 ,winchester--came into existence1 perched in mid air above the little postern gate4 ,nor was this all1 for the year after1 when ,simon de ,montfort the younger appeared again in arms before the city walls1 the monks actually admitted him1 and a wild night followed in ,winchester2 his troops revenged themselves on the defenceless citizens for their opposition by burning and plundering a portion of the city1 and putting many of them to the sword4 ,but the ascendancy of the barons was but brief1 for in the same year1 #abfe1 ,prince ,edward defeated and slew ,de ,montfort at the battle of ,evesham1 rescued his father1 and restored him to the throne4 ,a memorable year was this both for ,england and for ,winchester1 for ,henry summoned to ,winchester his first representative ,parliament1 notable because for the first time representatives of the cities and boroughs appeared there with knights of the shires1 along with the barons and prelates1 and the abbots and priors of the leading monasteries4 ,the ,prior of ,st4 ,swithun's and the ,abbot of ,hyde were both present at that remarkable assembly4 ,in #abfh a second ,parliament assembled at ,winchester1 and four years later the king died1 and ,edward ,i4 became king4 ,henry ,,iii4's reign was indeed a notable one for the city1 and one notable addition he made to it remains still as one of its foremost architectural and historical treasures4 ,this is the great and noble hall which he added to the castle1 and which retains still1 with some alteration1 much of its original character4 ,many a notable scene has this noble hall witnessed1 both during ,henry's reign and since1 the early ,parliaments of #abfe and #abfh pre-eminent among them4 ,one such dramatic scene was the one related in full by ,matthew of ,paris1 as occurring in #abdi1 when the king unmasked and brought to justice a confederacy of robbers who had conspired to waylay the highways and rob the passers-by4 ,none were safe from them3 even the king's own consignments of wine1 coming to ,winchester1 were stopped and plundered4 ,matters were in this state of insecurity when the king1 coming to ,winchester1 was approached by some ,brabantine merchants1 who complained that they had been stopped on the highroad near ,winchester and robbed of #bjj marks4 ,the king's anger boiled over1 and in hot indignation he ordered the castle gates to be shut1 and a jury empanelled then and there to find and disclose the offenders4 ,the twelve citizens thus appointed pleaded inability to throw light on the matter1 but the king1 not to be thwarted1 shouted1 8,carry away those artful traitors2 bind them1 and cast them into the dungeons below1 and let me have twelve other men1 good and true1 who will tell us the truth40 ,the second jury1 with the fear of death thus before them1 promptly displayed quicker powers of perception1 and laid before the king the detects of a widespread conspiracy1 in which many leading men of the city and neighbourhood1 as well as of the king's household1 whose pay was probably long in arrear1 were implicated4 ,and so justice was done1 and for a while travelling abroad was safer4 ,thus1 now through good report1 now through evil1 the fortunes of our city waxed and waned1 but1 in a sense1 her day was over4 ,mediaeval ,winchester more and more grew to assume the character of a purely provincial city2 one with importance1 indeed1 with prestige and dignity1 but from which1 like the so-called #8buried cities' of the ,zuyder ,zee1 the wide shores whereon the tides of major national circumstance ebbed and flowed1 continually receded more and more1 while her citizens found themselves less and less #8going down in ships' to the broad sea of national life1 and #8occupying their business' in those #8great waters4' ,,chapter ,,xiv ,,fourteenth ,,and ,,fifteenth ,,century ,,winchester ,what do you lack1 what do you buy1 mistress8 a fine hobby horse to make your son a tilter8 a drum to make him a soldier8 a fiddle to make him a reveller8 what is't you lack8 ,,ben ,,jonson4 ,it is pleasant to turn away from the direct stream of the national flood1 and to explore some of the by-streams1 the more local whirls and eddies in the life of our city1 and this theme is naturally suggested by the thought of ,winchester in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries1 when imperial politics had largely ceased to affect her1 and the wider growth of interests and domestic features had given her life within a greater diversity1 and rendered possible a minuter degree of specialization4 ,interest in the main centres round her civic rule1 the pilgrim stream1 the great annual ,fair of ,st4 ,giles1 and the domestic architecture1 while supreme over all these was the dominating interest and control exercised by the ecclesiastical powers within her--the sway of the crozier and the tonsure1 the cloister and the cowl4 ,we shall deal in this chapter with the city at large1 leaving to the chapter following the more purely monastic aspects4 ,the city as a city had been growing--as always was the case with mediaeval towns closely walled in--continually more and more congested4 ,the southeastern quarter occupied by the ,convent of ,st4 ,swithun's1 with its ,cathedral and great churchyard1 the adjoining ,abbey of ,st4 ,mary1 and the bishop's residence at ,wolvesey1 was a lung open indeed and well ventilated1 but elsewhere the hemmed in area was a maze of narrow and crowded thoroughfares1 with houses1 whose curiously timbered1 but inconveniently picturesque fronts1 almost jostled one another across the narrow passage-ways between1--houses1 of the type still to be seen in the so-called #8,old ,rectory' in ,cheesehill ,street1 in the pseudo-antique houses in #8the ,brooks1' in ,mr4 ,mayne's ,tudor ,house near the ,butter ,cross1 and the present ,godbegot ,house almost opposite1 of later date though most of these be--as if the chief office of neighbourly regard of a mediaeval dwelling to those round her was not merely to ,not beteem the winds of ,heaven1 ,visit their face too roughly1 but also to religiously exclude that indiscreet and unwelcome intruder1 the all-prying and inquisitive sun1 while through many of the low-lying streets ran broad and open ditches1 not always1 alas6 the dulcia et piscosae flumina aquae1 the sweet refreshing streams which ,precentor ,wulfstan had once commemorated1--streams whose channels flow now in well-regulated courses1 some open1 some underground1 but which then made their way1 often through filth and accumulated garbage1 in far less well-ordered circulation through the city4 ,though the city1 judged by contemporary standards1 might be a #8joly cit1' of which ,the aere was god both inne and oute1 it must have fallen far short of almost every modern standard of health and convenience1 and its narrow1 confined1 and ill-cleansed courts were the lurking-places of contagion and of never wholly absent plague4 ,the civic management was a strange1 incongruous muddle of overlapping and conflicting authorities1 each jealous of its own influence and envious of its neighbour's4 ,the authority of the gilds had now become crystallized into a corporation of more or less definite form1 the ,mayor and ,bailiffs1 who exercised the controlling influence over the major part of the city4 ,when exactly a #8,mayor' first came into existence is unknown4 ,the civic records go back1 indeed1 to a certain ,florence de ,lunn in #aahd1 though he can hardly be accepted as a #8mayor' in the technical sense1 but the ,mayor only exercised authority over the population within the walls1 and #8the ,liberties1' as they were called1 were excluded from his jurisdiction4 ,of these there were two1 the ,liberty of the ,soke1 the region1 that is1 beyond the walls to the east and north1 over which the ,bishop had supreme jurisdiction1 and which he entrusted to the care of a special officer1 the ,bailiff of the ,soke1 and the ,liberty of ,godbiete1 the little manor within the city granted by ,queen ,emma to the ,convent of ,st4 ,swithun1 from the church tower of which curfew rang1 and within whose #8liberties1' as already stated1 no officer bearing warrant1 whether of king1 mayor1 or bishop1 might enter4 ,this tripartite division of authority1 in which the civic1 episcopal1 and monastic powers were mutually confronted1 formed a cunningly devised preserve1 in which the dexterous fisher in the troubled waters of the day might ply his angle with rarely successful result4 ,the dominating commercial interest was the ,wool ,trade4 ,england was famous for wool1 and to this trade ,winchester1 as a natural centre with ,southampton as her port1 owed her prosperity4 ,north of the ,high ,street1 not far from the ,westgate1 stood the great ,hall where the wool was brought and sampled1 and here the great ,tron or weighing machine was kept on which the wool was weighed4 ,in ,edward ,,iii4's time the ,winchester wool trade was at its height4 ,his wars with ,france1 really undertaken to enable him to control the ,channel1 and so to keep the trade with ,flanders in his own hands1 had prospered1 and when he introduced his famous wool-stapling measure1 by which #8staples' or exclusive wool markets were set up in ten towns in ,england1 of which ,winchester was one1 the commercial prosperity of the city increased by leaps and bounds4 ,but1 alas6 ,edward's policy was only too successful4 ,the ,flanders trade was considered more important than local ,english ,illustration3 ,,brewhouse1 ,,winchester ,,college ,college ,brewhouse1 adjoining ,college ,street1 is one of the oldest portions of the ,college buildings4 ,over the archway one of the turrets of ,outer ,gateway is to be seen4 interests1 and when1 some years after1 he appointed ,calais as the staple town1 and removed the staple from ,winchester1 the days of the commercial prosperity of our city were numbered4 ,but while the wool trade lasted1--and it only died out as such trades do by degrees1--,winchester with all its limitations must have been a rarely interesting and attractive place in which to 8catch the manners fleeting as they rise40 ,it is much to be regretted that the ,winchester of this period had no shrewd and genial humorist1 no ,chaucer or ,jonson1 to mingle with the crowd1 and to preserve for us1 whether by pen or pencil1 the humours of the day1--the varied types1 lay and cleric1 monk1 friar1 pilgrim1 merchant1 or franklin1 who might have been found periodically gathered either at the ,wool ,market or the ,hall of the ,gild merchant1 or at #8the ,george1'--for there was a #8,george' at ,winchester then1 even as now1--in as full and diverting variety as ever foregathered at the ,tabard itself2 but interesting as those intrinsically were1 their interest was as nothing beside the two great dominating attractions which periodically gathered all sorts and conditions of men for temporary hospitality within her walls1 the pilgrimages1 and the great ,fair of ,st4 ,giles4 ,and if it was the ,wool ,trade which made the ,fair1 equally it was the ,fair which gave the city its notoriety and its commercial importance4 ,and the ,fair while it lasted dominated everything--not only was all ordinary business suspended1 but even the jurisdiction of the ordinary civic authorities was equally subject to its influence1 and the already complex problem of civic rule was rendered topsy-turvy by a temporary transfer of authority within the city area from the ,mayor to the ,bailiff of the ,soke1--a glorious opportunity for paying off old scores1 which many a modern local administrator might well envy him4 ,the early history of the ,fair we have already touched on4 ,a fair had been held on ,st4 ,giles's ,hill since very early days1 and with the strange incongruity of association characteristic of early times1 fairs were for a long time regularly held in churchyards4 ,but the ,fair of ,st4 ,giles had long since outgrown the limits of the little churchyard of ,st4 ,giles1 on the hill which bears his name1 and successive charters of ,william ,,ii4 and later sovereigns had made the rights and profits of the ,fair the perquisite and privilege of the ,bishop of ,winchester1 who had the power of exclusive trading within the area of the ,fair during its duration4 ,originally granted for three days1 ,henry ,i4 had extended the period to eight1 ,stephen to fourteen1 and ,henry ,,ii4 to sixteen1 and this period was confirmed in the last charter granted for the ,fair1 viz41 that given by ,edward ,,iii4 in #acdi1 in which all the privileges of the ,fair were rehearsed and solemnly confirmed4 ,the procedure connected with the ,fair was minute and formal4 ,on the #cast of ,august1 the ,eve of ,st4 ,giles1 the ,bishop took possession1 as it were1 by setting up his court in the ,pavilionis ,aula1 or ,hall of the ,pavilion1 on the top of the hill4 ,the court being formally constituted1 ,justiciaries or ,bailiffs of the ,fair were appointed1 who at once proceeded either to ,southgate or ,kingsgate1 where the ,mayor1 ,bailiffs1 and citizens of ,winchester were required to meet them1 and dutifully to deliver up the keys of the gate1 and from thence to accompany them in turns to the ,westgate1 the ,wool ,staple1 and the other gates in succession1 and to deliver up the keys of each1 while the ,fair was solemnly proclaimed and the transfer of authority effected4 ,the proclamation made forbade the buying and selling1 while the ,fair lasted1 of articles of general merchandise1 other than food1 anywhere in ,winchester or within seven leagues' radius 7#aj miles71 except within the limits of the ,fair itself4 ,this done1 the humiliation of the ,mayor and ,bailiffs was completed by their being required to humbly attend the usurping authorities to the ,bishop's ,pavilion1 thenceforward to submit to their jurisdiction1 with what grace they might1 till the ,fair was over4 ,nor was it only at ,winchester that the ,fair was proclaimed--,southampton1 though actually beyond the seven leagues' radius1 was included in the prohibited area1 and here and at all important points on the boundary of the ,fair zone1 the same proclamation was made and formal possession taken4 ,nor was it only smuggling that the ,fair officials had to guard against4 ,outlaws of the ,robin ,hood type--of whom the notorious ,adam of ,gurdon1 ,bailiff of ,alton1 and ,lord of the ,manor of ,selborne1 was perhaps the most famous--were accustomed to lay in wait and levy blackmail on merchants and travellers who had business at the ,fair1 and at all particularly dangerous spots1 such as the ,pass of ,alton1 as it was called1 the spot on the road from ,london to ,alton where the thick woodland made highway robbery a comparatively easy matter1 sergeants1 armed and mounted1 were stationed to keep the ,pass4 ,the ,fair itself was a veritable town of booths or stalls within a wooden palisade1 each quarter or #8street' within it taking its name from the merchandise displayed or the nationality of the traders who occupied it4 ,then there were the ,spicery--the general grocery1 or trade in sugar1 spices1 and preserved fruits1 in which the monks of ,st4 ,swithun traded largely--the ,pottery--the ,stannary 7or ,falconry7--the #8stret' of the ,flemings1 of the ,genoese1 of the ,cornishmen2 and the prices paid were high1 for a high #8tariff wall' surrounded the ,fair4 ,on a burden borne by one man was levied a penny1 on a cask of wine or cyder fourpence1 for a falcon twopence1 for an ape or bear--animals much affected as butts and playthings by the great1 and even by the monks--fourpence4 ,multiplying these by twelve1 as is customarily done1 to reduce them to modern values1 we realise how heavy these tolls were4 ,nor were luxuries and alcoholic drinks the only article taxed4 ,the raw material paid toll too3 every bale of wool fourpence1 of which twopence went to the ,bishop1 and twopence1 to conciliate popular support evidently1 to the check weighman4 ,plantagenet times were not a ,cobdenite millennium2 and1 probably1 could a ballot have been taken at the time1 while the monks and the ,bishop's #8menie' would undoubtedly have voted for ,tariff ,reform1 very few ,winchester citizens--though the ,fair was profitable enough to them in reality--would have polled with them4 ,within the ,fair itself1 the mise en scne and the humours of the crowd would have presented a subject fully worthy of ,ben ,jonson himself1 and it is safe to say that no human concourse1 not even ,bartholomew ,fair in its most palmy days1 could have taxed his genius more than ,st4 ,giles's ,fair during the ,edwardian rgime would have done4 ,motley1 indeed1 was the crowd gathered here--,jews and ,normans1 ,poles and ,italians1 strolling minstrels1 quacks and jugglers1 ballad-mongers and fortune-tellers1 thieves and swaggerers1 ,corporal ,nyms and ,ancient ,pistols1 rogues and sharpers of every kind1 cheating1 swearing1 dancing1 quarrelling1 drinking1--hawk-eyed chapmen and hard-visaged countrymen1 each alike bent on cheapening the other's demands1 huckstering1 gesticulating1 and chaffering in strange dialects and all but unknown tongues--while here and there vigilant assizemen1 wearing the ,bishop's livery1 passed eager-eyed amidst them1 keenly scenting out deficient weight or cozening ell-wand1 for in spite of severe penalties imposed on all detected in such practices1 the ,fair was pre-eminently a place where nobody's virtue was over nice1 and all the #8tricks of the trade' flourished in a congenial soil4 ,thus ,harvey1 prentice to ,symme atte ,stile1 who tells us in ,langland's 8,piers ,ploughman10 how at ,wye and ,wynchestre ,i went to the faire1 lifts up some part of the veil for us1 telling us that wikkedlych to weye 7wickedly to weigh7 was his first lesson4 ,we have already spoken of the ,bishop's ,court or ,pavilionis ,aula4 ,here the ,bailiffs and ,justiciaries of the ,fair met1 not merely to make regulations1 but to dispense justice1 for the ,pavilionis ,aula was also a court of summary jurisdiction1 a #8piepowder court1' cour des pieds poudreux or dusty-foot justice1 that is1 where the wily ,autolycus1 or ,artful ,dodger of the day1 or other picker up of unconsidered trifles1 was awarded short shrift and well-earned punishment either in stocks or pillory1 or in the ,bishop's dungeon under ,wolvesey ,palace4 ,such then for some three hundred years was the great ,fair of the ,festival of ,st4 ,egidius4 ,for many years it survived1 even though trade in ,winchester was falling off and doomed1 but it could not survive indefinitely4 ,in ,henry ,,vi4's time a distinct falling off was apparent2 since then it has dwindled gradually bit by bit1 till now the only tangible memorial remaining is the name of the ,bishop's court1 the ,pavilionis ,aula1 the ghostly footfall of which seems still to be re-echoed in the name 8,palm ,hall10 a well-known residence standing on the brow of the hill where #8all the fun of the ,fair' sparkled and bubbled so many hundreds of years before4 ,side by side with the ,fair was the ,pilgrim stream1 which too reached its height about this period4 ,we have seen how early in ,edward the ,elder's reign the shrine of ,st4 ,josse in ,newan ,mynstre attracted pilgrims to ,winchester and gave it a reputation--a reputation which the enshrinement in ,edgar's reign of ,swithun's bones enormously added to4 ,tales of miracle were circulated1 widespread and equally widely credited1 cripples were healed1 the lame walked1 and ,st4 ,swithun's became the most popular pilgrimage centre in all ,southern ,england4 ,from ,henry ,,ii4's reign1 though the shrine of ,becket rose into importance1 ,st4 ,swithun's did not abate in popularity1 and the stream of pious1 dust-laden feet still flowed just the same to and from it1 save that many going on pilgrimage would visit the shrines of both ,st4 ,thomas and ,st4 ,swithun on their way4 ,rich and poor1 a-foot or in the saddle1 they streamed into ,winchester as soon as the pilgrim season--the early spring1 that is1--arrived4 ,as ,chaucer tells us3 ,whan that ,aprille with his showrs swoote ,the drought of ,marche hath percd to the roote1 99 99 99 99 99 ,thanne longen folk to gon on pilgrimages4 ,the wealthier lodged in hostelries and inns1 the poorer found shelter and hospitality within the walls of convent or nunnery4 ,from south and west they came--over the ,roman road from ,sarum and along the ,itchen valley from ,southampton1 turning aside to visit ,st4 ,cross and receive the wayfarer's dole of bread and beer1 till they reached the gates of ,st4 ,swithun's or of ,hyde4 ,st4 ,swithun's was the chief place of resort4 ,here within the ,pilgrim's or ,guesten ,hall1 the greater part of which still stands1 a rough but welcome bed awaited them1 while at the buttery a plentiful meal of broken victuals and beer was to be had for the asking4 ,then next morning after mass they would be admitted to the shrine1 to say their prayers1 make their humble offering1 and depart4 ,an unwholesome and unsavoury enough crowd1 doubtless1 in the main--travel-stained1 footsore1 and unwashed1 disease accompanied them1 frequently enough1 from centre to centre1 just as plague follows nowadays the eastern lines of pilgrimage in ,india and ,arabia--and not even all their piety and devotion could sufficiently endear them to the monks of ,st4 ,swithun as to make them personally acceptable1 and secure unrestricted welcome for them within their church and monastery4 ,accordingly1 though allowed to enter the ,cathedral freely1 their liberty within it was circumscribed4 ,admitted to the north transept by a special door--the ,pilgrim's door1 now walled up--they could make their way into ,godfrey de ,lucy's retro-choir1 the great extension east of the high altar1 where the shrine of the saint was placed4 ,so much and no more of the ,cathedral was open to them1 for at the head of the presbytery steps1 leading down to the south transept and nave1 massive iron-work gates barred the way2 the gates are to be seen still1 though long since removed to near the western entrance of the ,cathedral4 ,and so their devotions ended1 they would journey on--on ,illustration3 ,,middle ,,gate1 ,,winchester ,,college ,middle ,gate gives access to ,middle or ,chamber ,court--so called from #8,election ,chamber1' the large room over the gateway where #8elections' to college were formerly held4 ,the three statues over the gateway represent the ,virgin1 the ,archangel ,gabriel1 and the ,founder4 ,the quaint old custom of college boys crossing the ,quad bareheaded1 in honour of the ,virgin1 is followed at ,winchester ,college still4 to the great ,abbey of ,hyde1 then on to ,headbourne ,worthy church1 to visit the ,saxon rood at its western end1 then on by ,alton and ,farnham1 probably to rest for the night in the great ,cistercian ,abbey of ,waverley hard by1 and so on by ,guildford and ,st4 ,martha's to ,canterbury--a well-defined route clearly marked even now for much of its length1 and still known as the ,pilgrim's way4 ,so great a vogue did the pilgrimage craving become that at length it had to be controlled and forbidden by law4 ,yet the pilgrimage had its uses--the open-air journey1 severe though its hardships were to the ill-found and poorly shod1 served1 doubtless1 as a magnificent tonic1 both mental as well as bodily1 and must have done much to correct the terrible insularity of ideas which a population otherwise chained to the soil must otherwise have engendered4 ,nor1 in all probability1 was the belief in the efficacy of pilgrimages in the cure of diseases1 particularly mental ones1 without at least some substantial basis of truth4 ,as in the case of ,henry of ,hoheneck1 so also1 mutatis mutandis1 might many a pilgrim to ,winchester have had it said of him3 ,and he was healed in his despair ,by the touch of ,st4 ,swithun's bones1 ,though ,i think the long ride in the open air1 ,that pilgrimage over stocks and stones1 ,in the miracle must come in for its share4 ,a miracle none the less pronounced because the air of ,hampshire ,downs had been a potent but unrealized contributory factor in the result4 ,,chapter ,,xv ,,the ,,monastic ,,life ,grosse ,stdte1 reiche ,klster ,schaffen1 dass mein ,land den euren ,wohl nicht steht an ,schtzen nach4 ,,kerner1 ,der reichste ,frst4 ,but active as were the currents that circulated in and round the gilds1 the wool markets1 the annual fair1 and the pilgrimage resorts1 the dominating stream was that which flowed through the monastic channel1 and over mediaeval ,winchester the influence of the monastery in one form or other1 whether of priory1 abbey1 or nunnery1 or whether of the mendicant orders1 or nursing sisterhoods1 now for a considerable time firmly established in the city1 was supreme4 ,the ,priory was a secluded area1 the privacy of which was jealously guarded4 ,the ,cathedral itself1 from the eastern angle of the north transept to the southern corner of the west front1 formed the effective boundary on the city side1 with the great churchyard lying between it and the city proper4 ,the remainder was supplied by the high close-wall running all round it1 much as the greater part of it does now1 flanked to the east by the boundary of the ,bishop's residence at ,wolvesey1 and forming1 with the latter1 part of the external defences of the city1 so that between them the monks and the ,bishop relieved the citizens of something like a quarter of the burden--a heavy one at that time--of keeping the walls in repair and defending them if attacked4 ,the main entrance was then1 as now1 the great close-gate1 opening into ,swithun's ,street near ,kingsgate1--the point of attack in the troubles of #abfd--;and besides this a small postern or opening gave access from #8,paradise'--as the area east of the northern transept was and still is called--to ,colebrook ,street and ,paternoster ,row4 ,from the churchyard to the domestic quarter no direct means of access existed2 the #8,slype' or passage through the great south-western buttress was not yet made1 and to pass from the west part into the cloister it was necessary to pass through the ,cathedral itself4 ,the domestic buildings--as was always the case with the ,benedictines1 and ,st4 ,swithun's was a ,benedictine house--were grouped on the south4 ,the cloister garth was a square enclosure1 south of the nave1 roofed overhead and flagged below1 but otherwise open to the air1 with the open lavatory or general washing-place in the centre4 ,this was the monks' usual place of resort1 except when the services in church or special duties called them elsewhere4 ,here1 half in the open air1 they read1 they studied1 laboured at the occupations of the scriptorium1 the illuminated missal or book of the #8,hours4' ,here was their library1 and here the magister ordinis held his school for novices1 a school where the instruction1 however1 was not1 as is commonly supposed1 the humanities or even divinity1 but the rule of the order of ,st4 ,benedict1 to be1 to the monk1 from the moment he had taken the vows1 more than his conscience4 ,here in the cloister1 too1 the monks enjoyed such minor relaxations as fell to their lot4 ,here they took their #8meridian' or mid-day siesta2 and here1 for all the world like great schoolboys--whenever1 that is1 the prying eyes of ,sacrist or ,precentor were not upon them--they even indulged at times in harmless but unauthorized gossip and 8snatched a fearful joy40 ,grouped round the cloister garth--their site now occupied by canons' houses--were the domestic buildings proper3 the kitchen to the west1 the refectory on the south4 ,on the east--its ,norman arches still in part standing--was the ,chapter ,house1 where the ,prior held a chapter daily for the regulation of the internal routine1 and for the admonition or correction of offenders against the discipline4 ,south of this1 where now the ,deanery stands1 were the ,prior's quarters4 ,farther to the east were the sleeping quarters1 the #8dortour' or common dormitory1 the sick house or infirmary1 and so forth2 while standing by itself at some little distance in the outer court--,mirabel ,close as it was called--was the ,pilgrims' hall1 where the poorer pilgrims were lodged1 and now almost the only part of the domestic buildings of the monastery still standing4 ,at the period we are speaking of monastic life had assumed a character entirely different from what it had borne in ,saxon and ,norman days4 ,poverty1 obedience1 chastity1 and toil had been not only the motto1 but actually the practice1 of the earlier monk4 ,he had not only prayed and wept1 and denied himself ease and creature comforts--his life had been one unceasing round of severe bodily labour4 ,his own efforts had sufficed for his daily wants1 and in ministering to them1 he had taught the savage people round him the arts of agriculture1 he had reclaimed the waste lands1 and had literally made the wilderness to blossom like the rose4 ,but this active1 simple phase had passed away4 ,monasteries like ,st4 ,swithun's or ,hyde now performed important ceremonial and social duties of an official character4 ,the ,prior of ,st4 ,swithun's kept lordly state2 the ,abbot of ,hyde wore a mitre4 ,these monasteries controlled extensive interests1 swayed large estates1 held much church patronage1 and extended generous hospitality to high and low alike4 ,the simple organisation of earlier times now no longer sufficed1 and a considerable retinue of lay brothers was considered necessary for the domestic service of the monastery1 while the more purely spiritual duties alone were performed by the monks themselves4 ,the monk was thus left free to pray and study1 to perform his regular offices1 and keep his #8hours' strictly1 and only the more responsible of the domestic duties or those of supervising the several departments of activity were assigned to those who had taken the vow4 ,the lay brethren or retainers performed the menial duties1 and were so completely separate from the brethren in orders that they were even excluded from their churches4 ,thus the little parish church of ,st4 ,swithun perched above ,kingsgate was set apart for the lay servants of the ,priory1 and the parish church of ,st4 ,bartholomew1 ,hyde1 in like manner for those of ,hyde ,abbey4 ,probably few at that day could have foreseen that the churches built for the lay retainers would prove more enduring than the great monasteries themselves4 ,thus1 spiritually speaking1 the monasteries were1 if not actually dead1 at least moribund4 ,shut in from the world outside they affected less and less the stream of general spiritual life1 and gradual atrophy of spiritual powers followed inevitably on the failure to exercise them4 ,yet it would be a profound mistake to infer--as one easily might1 particularly if one were guided by popular pictorial representations of it--that the life of the fourteenth century monk was one of ease and enjoyment4 ,in reality it was one of severe discipline and self-repression4 ,the eight daily services of the hours beginning at midnight with nocturnes1 and ending at evening with compline1 with the enforced vigils and broken periods of sleep they entailed1 were but a part of the regular daily obligation4 ,in addition there were masses to be said1 study and reading in the cloister1 the labours of teaching and of the scriptorium4 ,it is a somewhat cheap sneer to set down the monk as merely indolent or self-indulgent1 but his life certainly tended as a rule more to deaden than to exalt1 and the monk entered the cloister only too often to discover nothing but a limited outlook and a dreary round of humdrum trivialities1 instead of the religious peace and the beatific vision he had expected4 ,the brethren who controlled the various departments of monastic economy were termed ,obedientiarii1 or brethren yielding obedience to the ,prior1 and responsible to him for performance of their respective duties4 ,the ,prior was over all1 and next to him was the ,sub-prior4 ,the church was looked after by the ,sacrist and the ,precentor4 ,these regulated the services1 while the latter in addition was responsible for the discipline4 ,he was the general policeman1 a kind of peripatetic conscience1 imposing silence in the cloister1 and checking illicit conversation1 and particularly on the alert during nocturnal service1 lest the burden of drowsiness should prove too heavy for any of the worshippers4 ,armed with a lantern he stole from brother to brother1 and if any was found nodding he placed the lantern at the offender's feet1 who1 thus detected and openly shamed1 was required to take up1 as it were1 the #8fiery cross1' and bear it on until he should find another guilty like himself1 in which case he might pass the unwelcome task on to his companion in disgrace--a kind of monastic game of touch1 not without its humorous side4 ,the manager of the estates was the ,receiver or ,treasurer1 the chief domestic official the ,hordarian or ,steward1 others were the ,custos operum or ,keeper of the ,fabric1 the ,cellarer1 the ,almoner1 the ,master of the ,novices1 or ,magister ordinis1 the ,gardener1 and so on4 ,a somewhat full collection of ,obedientiary ,rolls1 or official accounts of ,st4 ,swithun's ,priory1 still exists1 and much valuable and interesting information has been rendered accessible to the general public by ,dean ,kitchen1 who has edited them1 and from these we can learn full details of the daily life1 dietary1 and operations of the monks of ,st4 ,swithun4 ,they had two main meals a day1 with certain other opportunities for minor refreshment4 ,bread1 cheese1 meat1 fish1 and eggs appear to have been freely provided1 though it must be remembered that there were always guests as well as the monks to be catered for4 ,on fast days #8drylinge1' or salt fish1 and mustard figured largely1 the mustard serving as a corrective to the unpalatable fare1 and doubtless1 too1 a useful tonic to bodies which had to endure so many hours in a stone church or in an open cloister entirely unprovided with artificial means of warming4 ,beer was the general1 and wine a rarer beverage4 ,relishes and extra dishes were granted from time to time1 as1 for instance1 on festival occasions1 or as a reward for special duties4 ,to guard against chills furs were largely worn1 and were indeed a heavy item of expenditure4 ,spices were largely used as comforts in the same way as the mustard already referred to1 and to keep the monks in health the gardener was required to supply each monk with a regulation number of apples daily from ,advent to ,lent1 doubtless1 again1 a wise provision at a period when vegetables were ,illustration3 ,,cloisters ,,and ,,fromond',s ,,chantry1 ,,winchester ,,college 8,but let my due feet never fail ,to walk the studious cloister's pale40 ,cloisters1 with ,fromond's ,chantry in the centre 7for ,college has two chapels71 forms one of the most poetic spots of ,winchester ,college4 ,in earlier days school was held in ,cloisters during the summer months4 ,in ,cloisters the ,college dead lie buried4 ,many former scholars have cut or carved their names on the stone-work of ,cloisters1 among them the famous ,ken1 afterwards ,bishop of ,bath and ,wells1 who wrote his ,manual of ,prayers for the use of ,winchester ,college ,boys4 ,his morning hymn 8,awake1 my soul1 and with the sun10 and evening hymn 8,glory to ,thee1 my ,god1 this night10 first appeared in this ,manual4 ,the inscription in ,cloisters is 8,thos4 ,ken1 #affe40 nowhere readily obtainable as at present4 ,as an additional corrective1 blood-letting1 five times a year1 was an habitual practice1 and as this involved three days in hospital1 i4e4 practically three days' holiday1 it was rather looked forward to than otherwise4 #8,shaving day' was an important event4 ,on ,maunday ,thursday the monks washed each other's feet1 and once a year they had a bath4 ,the straw for the pallets1 on which they slept in the #8dortour1' was changed once a year4 ,the meals were taken in silence in the refectory1 while1 to transpose the poet's words1 ,the ,reader droned from the ,pulpit1 ,like the murmur of many bees1 ,the legends of good ,st4 ,swithun ,and ,st4 ,benet's homilies4 ,straw litter covered the floor1 which was changed seven times a year--a higher standard of cleanliness and luxury than prevailed generally1 seeing that ,erasmus1 #bjj years later1 could still complain of the filthy rush-covered floors of ,english houses1 where bones1 scraps1 and ale from the table accumulated1 with even less desirable kinds of dirt1 and which1 when it was replaced1 was removed so perfunctorily that the lower layers remained undisturbed1 it might be for years4 ,the ,obedientiary ,rolls1 moreover1 supply us with an interesting insight into the commodities in general use1 and also into their prices4 ,reducing to modern values we find an egg and a herring practically cost then1 as now1 a penny apiece4 ,sugar existed in various forms--,sugar ,scaffatyn1 ,sugar of ,cyprus1 ,sugar ,roset1 and sweetmeats or comfits of various kinds1 varying from one to several shillings a pound4 ,rice was largely consumed1 and cost threepence a pound4 #8,coryns1' i4e4 grapes of ,corinth1 in other words currants1 about two shillings a pound4 ,enormous quantities of groceries1 #8spiceries' as they were termed1 figured in the accounts1 but1 doubtless1 largely because ,st4 ,swithun had his stall at ,st4 ,giles's ,fair1 and dealt extensively in #8spices4' ,it was at ,fair time that the monks had their chief holiday1 and made their chief purchases4 ,it was at the ,fair that they purchased also the furs they wore so largely4 ,on the top of the hill the ,prior had his special pavilion1 and kept practically open house--and doubtless the monks keenly appreciated the rare opportunity the ,fair afforded for a little excursion beyond the walls4 ,for though the ,prior mingled freely with the outer world1 as a great political person-age was summoned regularly to ,parliament1 and so forth1 the monk in general but rarely left the convent gate1 and saw little beyond #8the studious cloister's pale4' ,we have fewer details of the ,abbey of ,hyde1 just as we have fewer remains of its fabric4 ,such part as remains1 apart from some unimportant ruins1 is generally supposed to have formed part of the ,tithe barn4 ,opposite the gateway of this--which is really an interesting piece of architectural work1 unfortunately very meagre in extent1--is the ,church of ,st4 ,bartholomew1 ,hyde1 where1 as already stated1 the lay servants of the abbey worshipped4 ,the squared and worked stones which are to be seen freely in the houses all round the neighbourhood are1 otherwise1 practically all that still remains of the great abbey4 ,of its internal life we know also but little2 the ,liber de ,hyda preserves most of its history1 but we have no obedientiary rolls to chronicle its small beer4 ,during much of its later history it had a hard struggle for existence4 ,the ,black ,death all but brought ruin to it1 though later on ,william of ,wykeham did much to restore its prosperity4 ,its best-known abbot was ,walter ,fyfhyde1 abbot from #acah to #acfa4 ,of ,st4 ,mary's ,abbey we have fewer details still4 ,it enjoyed a considerable revenue from the tolls1 or #8octroi1' on merchandise which entered the city at the ,east ,gate4 ,far different from the life of monk or nun was that of the friar4 ,in the fourteenth century he was firmly established as a ,winchester institution4 ,he was the active missioner1 the revivalist1 the preacher4 ,he moved in the world1 not in the cloister4 ,he taught1 he preached1 he visited the slums2 he was the ,church-army worker or the ,salvationist of his time1 and if he wrought too much on the superstitious fears of his hearers1 even if the relics which he permitted them to kiss were usually nothing but #8pigges bones1' like those of ,chaucer's #8gentle pardonere1' as often as not he would have been prepared to defend the fraud as a pious deception which did no harm to his listeners1 while as a class the friars of the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries were undoubtedly the salt of the earth4 ,all the four orders of friars were represented in ,winchester--,black ,friars or ,dominicans1 ,grey ,friars or ,franciscans1 ,white ,friars or ,carmelites1 and ,austin ,friars4 ,their quarters were generally in the slums4 ,the name #8,grey ,friars' still lingers in #8,the ,brooks1' and #8,the ,friary' in ,southgate ,road preserves the memory of the ,austin ,friars1 though the latter1 strictly speaking1 were rather canons than friars proper4 ,between the several types of ecclesiastics deadly jealousy existed1 and if monk and friar agreed at all1 it was probably in a common hostility to the ordinary parochial incumbent or parish priest4 ,besides these1 many smaller religious or semi-religious houses of various types existed4 ,adjoining ,wykeham's ,college was the #8,sustern ,spital1' a community of nursing sisters1 fronting on to ,college ,street2 the little college of ,st4 ,elizabeth of ,hungary stood near the boundary wall of #8,mead'2 and besides these were a number of others1 of which ,magdalene ,college was perhaps the chief4 ,mediaeval ,winchester could certainly display #8,pious ,founders' with any city of its day4 ,the monasteries continued to flourish in greater or less prosperity till the middle of ,henry ,,viii4's reign4 ,but though the cloister monk himself might come but little in contact with the outer world1 the aspects in which the monastery as a whole did so were numerous and important4 ,not only in its immediate vicinity did it serve as educator1 general almoner1 and physician1 relieving want and sheltering distress1 but far away also from its walls its word was law1 its control all-sufficient4 ,as landed proprietors on a widely extended scale the monasteries wielded enormous territorial influence4 ,at their grange farms1 such as the farm of the ,augustinians at ,silkstede1 they maintained large bodies of farm hands1 they reared sheep1 they drove to market1 they bought and sold4 ,nor was this all2 all was fish that came into their net1 and ,church patronage not the least important or acceptable1 so that more and more the duty of providing for the spiritual needs of neighbouring or outlying parishes fell to their share1 along with the tithes or dues paid to support it1 and in such cases tithe was no longer paid to the incumbent direct but to the monastery1 who appointed a #8vicar' or deputy to carry out the spiritual duties1--a system satisfactory enough1 perhaps1 if faithfully followed out1 but leading to every form of evil and neglect when laxity supervened1 and selfishness replaced zeal2 and so the system of #8vicars' as incumbents was inaugurated1 while the frequent iteration and survival up and down the country side of such monastic addenda to the names of ,hampshire towns and villages1 as ,itchen ,abbas1 ,abbot's ,ann1 ,monk's ,sherborne1 ,prior's ,barton1 to quote but one or two1 is an eloquent testimony to the firm grasp which the monk had secured of the spiritual patrimony of the ,church1 and to this more than anything else is to be attributed the present poverty of the ,church1 and the lay patronage existing in so many rural ,english parishes to-day4 ,the closing scene in the monastic story was not1 however1 to be reached for some century or so longer4 ,in ,henry ,,viii4's time1 however1 monasteries had drifted so hopelessly from the general stream of national life1 that it was evident their existence could not be indefinitely prolonged on existing lines1 and ,wolsey1 with an insight and high zeal for reform which is rarely done sufficient justice to1 conceived the plan of closing them and diverting the funds thus set free to other religious and kindred purposes1 the endowment of schools1 colleges1 etc4 ,henry ,,viii4 availed himself of ,wolsey's suggestion1 and ,thomas ,cromwell1 the supple and unscrupulous instrument of an equally unscrupulous master1 carried it out1--not1 however1 with any view of a right-minded diversion of funds set aside for religious purposes1 but with the intention1 barely veiled1 of selfish misappropriation1 and the satisfaction of personal greed1 and in the general scramble for plunder1 not only did the monastic property1 as such1 get swallowed up1 but the parochial endowments--where vicars were in being1 at least--were swallowed up also4 ,the actual closing was carried out by two commissions4 ,in #aecf some of the smaller ,winchester houses were suppressed1 including the ,sustern ,spital and the various friaries4 ,then in #aecg a second commission was appointed1 and the larger houses began to fall4 ,at ,hyde1 ,abbot ,salcot proved #8conformable' and surrendered the abbey1 and in #aech ,cromwell's commissioners1 with the notorious ,thomas ,wriothesley1 afterwards ,earl of ,southampton1 acting the part of #8leading villain' of the piece1 visited it to carry out the work of demolishment4 ,in a letter to ,cromwell they thus describe their work at ,hyde3-- ,about three o'clock 7,a4,m47 we made an end of the shrine here at ,wynchester4444 ,we think the silver thereof will amount to near two thousand marks4 ,going to our beds-ward1 we viewed the altar1 which we purpose to bring with us4 ,such a piece of work it is that we think we shall not rid it1 doing our best1 before ,monday next or ,tuesday morning1 which done we intend1 both at ,hyde and at ,st4 ,mary's1 to sweep away all the rotten bones that be called relics1 which we may not omit lest it be thought that we came more for the treasure than for avoiding the abominations of idolatry4 ,the words are significant1 and the hour #c ,a4,m4 tells its own tale4 ,the abbot and other inmates received pensions1 very modest ones1 and the manors fell into various lay hands4 ,wriothesley secured the lion's share4 ,the abbey buildings were sold for the material they were built of1 and so rapidly did most of it disappear1 that ,leland in #aeci says in his well-known ,itinerary3 8,in this suburb stood the great abbey of ,hyde1 and hath yet a parish church40 ,camden1 writing shortly after1 speaks of the 8bare site1 deformed with heaps of ruins1 daily dug up to burn into lime40 ,in #aghh what still remained of the ruins was nearly all rooted up to make a ,county ,bridewell4 ,no thought of ,alfred1 or the other mighty and illustrious dead buried within the precincts1 seems to have stayed the ,vandal hands2 numerous relics1 patens1 chalices1 rings were found4 ,a slab of stone bearing ,alfred's name was taken away1 and is still preserved at ,corby1 in ,cumberland4 ,it was not part of ,alfred's tomb1 as it bears the date #hia4 ,so far all attempts to locate the position of ,alfred's tomb have been unsuccessful4 ,like ,moses of old1 8no man knoweth of his sepulchre unto this day40 ,the suppression of ,st4 ,swithun's had results less drastic4 ,hyde ,abbey was simply swallowed up in the catastrophe4 ,st4 ,swithun's was transformed into the capitular body of the ,cathedral1 the ,prior1 ,sub-prior1 and monks disappeared1 and in their places succeeded the ,dean1 the ,chapter1 and ,canons of ,winchester4 ,the new establishment thus formed was at first composed of the ,dean1 twelve prebendaries1 and six minor canons4 ,the ,prior1 ,william ,kingsmill1 proved #8very conformable1' and became the first ,dean of the new collegiate body4 ,the commissioners1 here as at ,hyde1 stripped the ,cathedral of its ornaments4 ,the silver shrine of ,st4 ,swithun disappeared1 and various other shrines1 and the glorious treasures of gold and silver1 and precious stones1 the gifts of ,cnut1 ,bishop ,stigand1 and many another pious donor1 which had graced the high altar1 were all swept away by the greedy hands of the spoilers4 ,the domestic buildings have almost all now disappeared4 ,the chapter-house was pulled down in #aegj by ,bishop ,horne1 largely for the sake of the leaden roof2 and the cloisters later on suffered a similar fate4 ,part of one of the convent kitchens remains in one of ,illustration3 ,,memorial ,,gateway1 ,,winchester ,,college ,the ,memorial ,gateway1 opening on to ,kingsgate ,street1 was erected recently in memory of ,wykehamists who fell in the ,south ,african ,war4 the houses at the west side of the cloister garth1 and some portions of the domestic buildings still remain in the ,deanery1 but practically all connected with the domestic life of the monastery has now disappeared4 ,in #afcb ,bishop ,curle opened a passage1 now called #8,the ,slype1' by cutting through the great buttress on the south side1 and so converted the cloister garth into a thoroughfare4 ,two curious ,latin anagrams cut on the west front of the ,cathedral and on the wall adjoining commemorate this4 ,but the ,priory1 thus transformed1 gained rather than lost in usefulness4 ,much of the property was indeed seized by the king1 but the ,dean and ,chapter have remained otherwise in full possession of the powers and privileges granted to them1 while the fuller and less restricted range of activity has rendered the ,cathedral the centre of ecclesiastical life and of extended usefulness1 far exceeding what the ,priory in its later days ever succeeded or perhaps ever aimed at securing4 ,the suppression of ,st4 ,swithun's was the first in point of time2 later on1 in #aech1 ,hyde was dissolved2 in #aeci1 ,st4 ,mary's ,abbey--,nunna ,mynstre--founded by ,alswitha1 ,queen of ,alfred the ,great1 suffered a like doom4 ,st4 ,elizabeth's ,college lasted a few years longer1 and was finally sold to ,winchester ,college in #aedg1 and the buildings pulled down4 ,the college luckily survived the visitation1 so1 also1 equally fortunately1 did ,st4 ,cross and ,st4 ,john's ,hospital1 and these remain in continued and more extended usefulness till the present day4 ,,chapter ,,xvi ,,the ,,cathedral ,sermons in ,stones4 ,to deal adequately with ,winchester ,cathedral would be almost to write the history of ,england1 a task manifestly impossible within the limits of such a work as this4 ,for the ,cathedral is not merely a building1 but a veritable history in stone1 and that not a history--as historic buildings very often are--of a community which has raised but a small eddy in the waters of national life1 but of one which has profoundly affected the fortunes of the nation during almost every period of its existence4 ,it is safe to say that scarcely a single storm of national strife has burst upon the land without leaving in some way an impress upon these grey stone walls1 and during a period of many centuries there was scarcely one single actor of eminence in the national drama who did not leave1 in some form or other1 a record imperishably graven here behind him4 ,not only have these stones witnessed the coronations of kings--the baptisms1 marriages1 and burials of princes--the consecration of bishops1 and many another ceremony of high national significance1 but they enshrine within their circuit the sacred dust of generations of the great departed1 subject and king1 soldier and priest1 statesman and prelate2 they are a great national ,valhalla with which no other in the land save ,westminster ,abbey can claim to compare4 ,as the preceding pages have shown1 a ,christian cathedral has existed continuously on the present site since the days of ,kynegils and ,kenwalh1 in the #gth century4 ,bishop ,swithun and ,bishop thelwold successively added to or rebuilt large portions of the fabric1 but the only ,saxon work now remaining is in the crypt and foundations4 ,the pillars and arches are splendidly massive and curiously fashioned1 and show that thelwold's work was solidly constructed4 ,the ,cathedral1 as we see it to-day1 is the ,norman and ,angevin ,cathedral--the cathedral of ,walkelyn and of ,godfrey de ,lucy1 transformed in later ,plantagenet days by ,edyngton1 ,wykeham1 and ,beaufort1 and adorned by ,silkstede1 ,fox1 and many others4 ,walkelyn's ,cathedral was a typical ,norman building1 and the disposition of its parts reflected a symbolism as well as a harmony4 ,the central truths of ,christian doctrine1 those of the ,trinity and of the redemption1 were beautifully symbolised in the three-fold repetition of nave1 triforium1 and clerestory in the elevation1 and of nave1 choir1 and transepts disposed in the form of a cross in the ground plan4 ,the arches and pillars are characteristic examples of the ,norman style--semicircular arches springing from heavy1 cushion-shaped capitals surmounting the strong circular pillars4 ,the general effect of the interior1 though heavy1 was one of impressiveness and dignity1 as can be well seen from the transepts1 which remain for all practical purposes unaltered from their original form1 or better still from the interior of ,chichester ,cathedral of to-day4 ,it reflected alike calmness1 dignity1 and strength--the dignity of a strength conscious of a burden indeed1 but self-reliant and adequate to the task4 ,it is no light burden that those giant pillars are bearing1 nor do they support it joyously or even with ease3 each one is rather an ,atlas1 bearing his load strongly and uncomplainingly1 but needing to put forth all his powers in the effort4 ,godfrey de ,lucy1 ,bishop in ,richard ,i4's time1 extended the church eastwards by adding the retro-choir with its beautiful ,early ,english arcading1 graceful columns1 and lancet windows1--an extension which1 owing to the insufficient foundation on which he built1 is in large measure responsible for the insecure condition of the fabric to-day4 ,this we will revert to later on in the chapter4 ,godfrey de ,lucy's object was to afford space for the ever-increasing numbers of pilgrims who crowded to ,winchester to see the shrine of ,st4 ,swithun1 but who in other respects were unwelcome guests4 ,his extension eastward afforded every facility to admit the pilgrims in to view the shrine1 without giving them access to the choir1 nave1 or domestic parts of the ,priory4 ,in ,edward ,,iii4's reign came the transformation of the nave and aisles--a daring work commenced by ,bishop ,edyngton1 and completed by ,william of ,wykeham1 almost equal in magnitude to the reconstruction of the fabric itself4 ,edyngton's work may be seen in the aisle windows at the extreme west of the building2 ,wykeham's1 which is lighter and more graceful1 fills the rest of the nave4 ,the general result has been to impart to the interior gracefulness and lightness4 ,the columns on either side of the choir steps1 which were left partly unaltered1 show us in some measure how the change was effected1 partly by pulling down and rebuilding1 partly by cutting away from the face of the columns4 ,the triforium was removed bodily1 and the triple row of ,norman arches thrown together into a single range of light1 lofty1 and graceful ,perpendicular-,gothic arches1 surmounted by smaller ,perpendicular windows serving as clerestory4 ,triforium proper no longer exists1 but its place is taken by a continuous narrow balcony running along both sides of the nave4 ,the impressiveness and beauty of the effect thus produced it is impossible to describe4 ,as you enter at the west end the majesty of the whole at once silences and uplifts you--a forest almost of lofty shafts and pillars rising unbroken and towering overhead1 where they branch out and interlace in the beautiful intricacy of the fan-tracery of the roof4 ,it is not without appropriateness that ,wykeham and ,edyngton both lie buried here in the beautiful chantry chapels which they respectively erected between the pillars on the south side of the nave4 ,the work of transformation from ,norman to ,perpendicular was continued through the choir and presbytery aisles by ,beaufort and others1 and later bishops extended the building eastward beyond the limits of ,godfrey de ,lucy's work4 ,the three chapels at the east end1 ,orleton's ,chapel1 commonly spoken of as the ,chapel of the ,guardian ,angels1 ,langton's ,chapel1 and the ,lady ,chapel1 contain much interesting and varied work4 ,in one sense the retro-choir is1 architecturally speaking1 the most interesting part of the ,cathedral4 ,it presents wonderful variety1 and contains specimens of practically every stage of architectural development since de ,lucy's day4 ,but it must be confessed that the general effect is rather a confused medley of seemingly haphazard or tentative reconstructions1 and the piecemeal character of the separate parts deprives it to a large extent of the dignity and completeness of a harmonious whole4 ,nowhere is this exemplified better than in the three east windows of the south transept--all altered from the original ,norman windows1 and each entirely different in character from its neighbours4 ,yet this very want of harmony is strangely eloquent4 ,winchester ,cathedral1 and its east end more particularly1 is not an architect's cathedral1 so to speak--one complete harmonious design like ,salisbury2 rather is it a document in stone--a deed to which many participants have affixed their sign-manual1 each in his characteristic writing1 and bearing the direct impress of his personality4 ,yet fascinating as its architectural features are1 they are dwarfed and unimportant beside the wealth of historical association that lies locked up within these walls as in a treasure-chest4 ,of the many great and solemn ceremonials which these walls have witnessed--such indeed1 to mention one or two only1 as the second coronation of ,richard ,cur-de-,lion1 the baptism of ,henry ,,vii4's son1 ,arthur of ,winchester1 ,prince of ,wales1 the marriage of ,henry ,,iv4 with his second wife ,joan of ,navarre1 and that of ,mary ,tudor1 ,queen of ,england1 to ,philip of ,spain--we will not now speak in detail4 ,rather will we concentrate our attention on the historic and architectural monuments which meet our eye almost wherever we turn1 and among this wealth of historical and architectural treasures three may be singled out for special notice--the chantry chapels1 the reredos1 and the mortuary chests4 ,the chantry chapels are gems of beauty and of interest1 enshrining the mortal remains as well as the memories of six notable men1--,edyngton1 ,wykeham1 ,beaufort1 ,waynflete1 ,fox1 and ,gardiner4 ,wykeham's chantry is almost daringly constructed out of and between two of the great pillars of the nave4 ,the memories of the three chantry monks who served it in ,wykeham's lifetime are preserved by three charming miniature figures placed in effigy at ,wykeham's feet4 ,the chantries of ,beaufort1 ,waynflete1 ,fox1 and ,gardiner are east of the choir4 ,beaufort's chantry1 less beautiful perhaps architecturally1 is wonderfully suggestive4 ,how eloquently the recumbent effigy seems to recall the strong features of the man who desired power so earnestly1 and could dare greatly in the effort to possess it--those rigid hands now clasped meekly in prayer betoken a humility and repose which their owner when in life probably never enjoyed1 nor it may be even desired4 ,waynflete1 again1 had a notable career4 ,headmaster of ,winchester1 he was chosen by ,henry ,,vi4 as first headmaster of his new foundation of ,eton1 and shortly after from headmaster became ,provost1 from which position he rose to become ,bishop of ,winchester4 ,waynflete founded ,magdalen ,college1 ,oxford2 and ,magdalen ,college has but recently been discharging a pious duty by undertaking the work needed for the preservation of her founder's chantry4 ,with ,waynflete1 ,wykeham1 and ,foxe 7founder of ,corpus71 all buried in these chantries1 ,winchester might almost claim to have founded ,oxford herself4 ,architecturally each chantry marks a step forward in the development of style1 and registers the successive stages in the rise1 culmination1 decline1 and death of ,perpendicular ,gothic4 ,of the great altar-screen we have already spoken4 ,here we have ,perpendicular ,gothic at its very best1 rich in effort1 yet in perfect taste1 without the least suggestion of the florid or the bizarre--the detail so varied1 the execution so delicate4 ,the statuary is modern1 but is beautifully executed and in perfect keeping--a somewhat unusual excellence--with the original work4 ,it would be hard to meet with so illustrative and remarkable a series of ,christian saints and examples as are here shown in effigy grouped ,illustration3 ,,second ,,master',s ,,house1 ,,winchester ,,college ,wykeham's #8children1' the seventy scholars that is1 are still lodged in ,college1 as they have been from the first1 under the charge of the second master1 whose house lies between ,outer ,gateway and ,chamber ,court1 over which latter some of the windows look out4 round the ,saviour's figure--the four archangels1 the ,virgin and ,st4 ,john1 ,st4 ,paul and ,st4 ,peter1 doctors like ,jerome1 teachers like ,ambrose1 ,christian missionaries like ,birinus1 bishops like ,swithun1 thelwold1 ,wykeham1 and ,wolsey4 ,among sovereigns we have ,egbert1 ,alfred1 ,cnut1 and ,queen ,victoria4 ,among the others of note are ,earl ,godwine1 ,izaak ,walton1 ,ken and ,keble4 ,many of these lie actually buried within the ,cathedral walls1 and nearly all left their mark inseparably and honourably stamped1 alike on the national1 as on the city history4 ,of all the historical memorials1 however1 none is capable of so profoundly stirring the imagination or arresting the attention as the six beautiful mortuary chests placed above the side screens of the choir4 ,think what associations the inscriptions on these recall4 ,early ,wessex chieftains1 as ,kynegils and ,kenwalh3 kings of ,wessex1 when ,wessex was supreme over all ,england1 as ,egbert and thelwulf3 the union of ,saxon and ,dane1 as personified by ,cnut and ,queen ,emma2 the ,norman tyrant as represented by ,rufus4 ,not even in ,westminster ,abbey itself can names such as these be read4 ,and close at hand are other significant names too3 ,harthacnut3 ,richard1 son of the ,conqueror1 fated1 like his brother ,rufus1 to meet a violent death in the ,new ,forest1 but otherwise unknown to history3 ,duke ,beorn1 murdered at sea by ,sweyn1 son of ,earl ,godwine4 ,these and other striking names can be found graven on the stone-work which carries the mortuary chests above4 ,of former bishops of ,winchester the majority are buried here4 ,some of these--and among them some of the most famous--have no visible sign to mark their tomb2 these include such names as ,birinus1 ,swithun1 thelwold1 ,walkelyn1 ,henry of ,blois4 ,there are many others too over whom we should like to linger3 ,peter de ,rupibus1 for instance1 the evil genius of ,henry ,,iii4's reign1 and ,ethelmar or ,aymer1 the absentee bishop1 who died in ,paris1 but desired his heart to be placed in a casket for interment in the ,cathedral1 though when alive his affections seem to have been centred anywhere but here4 ,his monument is more picturesque than his life was edifying4 ,he is represented in effigy in the attitude of prayer1 and holding his heart between his folded hands4 ,in striking contrast to these are monuments to ,bishops ,morley1 ,hoadley1 ,samuel ,wilberforce1 and ,harold ,brown4 ,over the remaining monuments1 and there are many of very great interest1 we cannot linger4 ,flaxman is represented by a bas-relief of ,dr4 ,warton1 famous in his day as headmaster of the ,college1 seated in his magisterial chair1 with a group of college boys #8up to books4' ,the details of schoolboy attire are curious and interesting4 ,appealing to a wider circle are two flat slabs of stone1 one in ,prior ,silkstede's ,chapel1 one in the north aisle4 ,the former bears the name ,izaak ,walton1 the latter ,jane ,austen4 ,truly ,winchester ,cathedral is a city of the mighty dead4 ,in addition to the monuments there are many other features of great attractiveness4 ,prior ,silkstede's carved wooden pulpit1 the quaint old font curiously carved in black stone1 said to have been brought to ,winchester by ,henry of ,blois1 and the miserere seats in the choir stalls are among these4 ,the ,cathedral library1 too1 is of rare interest4 ,the wonderful ,illuminated ,vulgate1 with its almost romantic history1 and numerous early ,saxon charters are preserved here1 along with ,cathedral and city records of great historical value4 ,the exterior of the ,cathedral presents less interest4 ,it is grand and striking1 but hardly beautiful4 ,the ,west front is flat and featureless1 the long straight roof of the nave is monotonous4 ,the east end1 with its varied work and the huge ,norman transepts1 is by far the finest portion4 ,taken as a whole the general effect is extremely dignified and impressive1 and the surroundings are entirely in keeping4 ,as you pass down the beautiful lime avenue1 or cross the grass to the west and north1 the quiet dignity and repose impress you with an influence deeper than mere beauty1 and the ,cathedral ,close1 with its ,jacobean and ,georgian houses1 is equally serene1 dignified1 and attractive4 ,the ,deanery is interesting1 particularly the ,early ,english work in the portico1 and the beautiful green sward in ,mirabel ,close1 with the ,pilgrims' ,hall to the east1 and ,cheyne ,court with its open-timbered and gabled houses1 all both alike quiet1 stately1 and harmonious4 ,a rare place this ,close1 with associations too of its own4 ,even nowadays it possesses its ghost--a female figure robed and veiled like a nun--which persons still living will describe to you1 for they have seen it themselves1 they declare1 and heard its ghostly footfall echoing as it has paced before them on the flags4 ,nor is the word #8,close' a word only4 ,still every night the gate is religiously locked at the stroke of ten1 after which none may enter or depart save by favour of the ,close porter1 the lineal successor of the #8proud portr' so prominent in ,early ,english ballad poetry4 ,before leaving the ,cathedral we must say a few words about the operations for the repair of the fabric to which reference has already been made4 ,the insecurity of a large part of the fabric is due mainly to the foundation on which ,godfrey de ,lucy built when he extended the ,cathedral towards the east4 ,to do this he had to build out over an area of peaty and water-logged land1 wherein to reach a solid foundation it was necessary to go down through successive layers of marl and gravel and peat1 to a considerable depth1 varying from #af to #bd feet4 ,as this involved working under water1 and as the task of dealing with water under foundations was beyond the skill of builders of the time1 de ,lucy made an artificial foundation of beech logs1 or beech trunks rather1 laid horizontally one over the other and kept in place with piles1 with the result that a progressive subsidence has occurred1 mainly1 but not entirely1 at the east end1 causing walls to bulge and crack1 and fissures to appear1 until the present degree of insecurity has been reached4 ,thus it has been not a question of restoration1 but of preservation1 and the work has been taken in hand not a moment too soon4 ,the present operations have consisted1 in the main1 of systematic underpinning of the walls and buttresses1 and as much of the work has had to be carried out under #aj feet or so of water1 a diver has been employed to lay down concrete in section after section at the base of the new foundations1 the water being afterwards temporarily drawn off by the help of powerful pumps1 to enable the work of underpinning to go on4 ,the employment of divers to lay foundations for a building #hjj years old would appear a fantastic absurdity1 transcending the wildest stretch of imaginative invention4 ,winchester ,cathedral has actually realised it4 ,unfortunately1 the securing of the southern aisle of the nave may demand an addition1--not merely underpinning1 but the construction of buttresses4 ,but these1 although novel1 will be no more foreign to the general design than were the corresponding buttresses which ,wykeham added to the north aisle2 and these1 with the further addition of the great tie-rods inserted at various spots in the transepts and retro-choir1 will1 it is hoped1 give the ,cathedral a stability which will ensure its preservation for centuries more4 ,the operations1 so novel in character1 so daring in conception1 so extensive in scale1 are yet unfinished1 and while some #ij1jjj has been already expended on the work1 something like another #ab1jjj is still needed for its completion4 ,,chapter ,,xvii ,,the ,,college ,schoolmasters in any schoole ,writing with pen and ink4 ,,childe ,,maurice4 8,manners makyth man0--#8manners' in the old and wide sense of the word1 the equivalent of the ,latin #8mores1' or of the word #8conversation' in ,st4 ,paul's epistles1 i4e4 moral worth and character as contrasted with wealth1 or the symbols of rank and power4 ,this is the motto inseparably connected with ,wykeham's foundations at ,winchester and ,oxford alike1 and who shall say how potent this motto has been in inspiring and moulding the character of ,english manhood and ,english public schools during the five centuries and more since their great founder was laid to rest8 ,winchester ,college is no common place4 ,if ,winchester ,cathedral1 which enshrines the bones of ,egbert1 should be the ,mecca of all pious lovers of the ,empire1 ,winchester ,college should be the ,mecca for all ,english public school men4 ,not that ,wykeham was the first to found an ,english public school1 whatever exactly the term #8public school' may mean4 ,schools had existed in the land for six or seven hundred years before ,wykeham's day4 ,there were schools in ,winchester itself1 as1 for instance1 the ancient ,winchester ,grammar ,school1 seven of the poor scholars of which received a meal daily in the ,hundred ,mennes ,hall at ,st4 ,cross4 ,wykeham did not invent schools as public schools1 but what he did was to give to public schools the special impetus and character which they have borne ever since1 and in this sense he is rightly named and revered as the #8,father of ,english public schools4' ,earlier schools had almost invariably been linked to collegiate churches--the communities of secular canons--and had occupied always a subordinate position4 ,wykeham gave an independent position to his school1 strengthening it indeed by making it part of a collegiate body1 and linking it with the ,university1 through the sister foundation of ,new ,college--,st4 ,marie ,college of ,wynchester in ,oxford1 to give it its full name--which ,wykeham had completed in #achf4 ,before the college could be commenced many preliminaries were necessary1--bulls from the ,pope1 and other official sanctions1 lawsuits and agreements with all kinds of bodies which had an interest in the site2 but ,wykeham began to organise his school before the permanent buildings were ready1 and for some years his scholars were lodged in temporary quarters somewhere by ,st4 ,giles's ,hill4 ,the site chosen for the buildings was just outside the city walls to the south1 and when at last all was ready1 on ,march #bj1 #acid1 the opening ceremony was solemnized4 ,the aged bishop received the ,warden and seventy scholars in the presence chamber of his ,episcopal palace of ,wolvesey1 and the whole body left ,wolvesey in solemn procession1 and entered and took possession of their new abode4 ,wykeham's immediate purpose in founding a school appears to have been to help to provide a body of educated clergy4 ,successive visitations of the #8,black ,death' had depleted the land of clergy1 just as it had of labourers1 and there was pressing need for a supply of educated men to recruit their ranks4 ,it was to be part of the object of the college to provide such recruits4 ,the scheme of the college and the statutes of the founders were carefully thought out and elaborated4 ,the college was part of a wide educational scheme3 a school and something more--a society1 with roots in ,oxford as well as in ,winchester4 ,the society was to comprise a school1 a chantry1 and a body of ,fellows4 ,the school was to consist of seventy scholars1 a number chosen very possibly in symbolical allusion to the seventy ordained to teach and preach throughout the land of ,galilee1 just as ,dean ,colet afterwards chose #8a hundred and fifty and three' as the number of his scholars in the school he founded--,st4 ,paul's ,school1 ,london4 ,over these were a master or ,magister informator1 and an usher or hostiarius3 the chantry was equipped with three chaplains1 three chapel clerks1 and ,illustration3 ,,tower ,,of ,,ambulatory1 ,,hospital ,,of ,,st4 ,,cross1 ,,winchester ,a picturesque red-brick corner of the domestic buildings of ,st4 ,cross ,hospital1 close to the magnificent grey-stone tower and archway known as ,beaufort's ,tower4 sixteen choristers3 the number of ,fellows or ,socii was ten4 ,the supreme head over this varied community was the ,warden4 ,this society1 complete in itself and so far independent1 was linked with another--the sister foundation of ,new ,college1 ,oxford--in such a way as to gain stability and dignity without subordination4 ,winchester was to be independent of ,new1 but the influence of ,new was to be a potent factor in determining the policy of ,winchester4 ,the ,warden of ,winchester was to be appointed by ,new ,college1 and ,new ,college was also to have extensive powers of visitation4 ,in ,wykeham's day any separation of the religious element from other aspects of education would have been deemed impossible1 and everything was cast in a religious and even semi-monastic mould4 ,nevertheless the organisations for the school and chantry were kept quite distinct1 and while divine service was celebrated practically continuously by the chantry staff1 the scholars were required to attend chapel services only on ,sundays1 saints' days1 or other festivals4 ,the ,warden and ,fellows alike were to be in priests' orders4 ,the ,fellows had duties to perform connected with the chantry1 but none connected with the school1 except that the ,warden and ,fellows were to elect the headmaster4 ,the headmaster was not necessarily to be in holy orders2 he was to teach the scholars1 and to maintain discipline1 and was to be assisted by the usher or hostiarius4 ,the #8seventy' were to be pauperes et indigentes1 i4e4 poor and in need of assistance1 apt to study1 and well versed in the rudiments of ,latin grammar1 reading1 and plain-song4 ,they were to be elected by a body of six1 known afterwards as #8the ,chamber1' from the room overlooking ,middle or ,chamber ,court1 #8,election ,chamber1' where elections took place4 ,the #8,chamber' was to consist of the ,warden and two ,fellows from ,new 7known as the senior and junior #8posers' respectively71 with the ,warden1 ,subwarden1 and ,headmaster of ,winchester4 ,in election preference was to be given to founder's kin1 and then to others in due degrees of priority of claim4 ,they were to remain until the age of eighteen years1 unless on the roll for ,new ,college2 but founder's kin could remain till the age of twenty-five years4 ,the scholars were to be lodged1 boarded1 clothed1 and taught entirely free of expense3 they were not to keep dogs1 ferrets1 or hawks3 to carry arms or frequent taverns3 to empty water1 etc41 on the heads of their companions from windows in the court--regulations which throw a curious light on the manners of the time4 ,the scholars were to be lodged and fed under the charge of the hostiarius or usher--an arrangement which obtains even now1 as the #8seventy' still reside in chambers in college1 under the charge of the second master4 ,we must not suppose that ,wykeham's scholars were to be boys either destitute or in actual want4 ,the term pauperes et indigentes was probably a formal expression1 designed to exclude the actually wealthy rather than anything else1 like the term in need of financial assistance inserted in modern scholarship regulations4 ,in addition to the above1 the statutes contemplated the admission of a limited number of outsiders1 known as commensales or commoners1 and later on town boys or oppidani were admitted as day boys4 ,the conditions under which the commoners resided varied greatly from time to time4 ,in #agbg ,dr4 ,burton1 then headmaster1 made extensive additions to the ,college buildings1 practically converting his own house into a boarding-house for them1 and this building became known as #8,old ,commoners4' ,in #ahch ,commoners was rebuilt1 under the name of ,new ,commoners1 but the result was not very satisfactory1 and in #ahfj the present plan of boarding in tutors' houses was commenced1 when the ,rev4 ,h4 ,j4 ,wickham opened the first #8,house4' ,in #ahfi1 during ,dr4 ,moberly's tenure as headmaster1 the system was extended4 #8,commoners' was done away with1 the commoners themselves lodged in tutors' houses1 and the building in part transformed into #8,moberly ,library'--so termed in memory of ,dr4 ,moberly4 ,the ,college buildings and grounds are a charm and a delight4 ,from the outer front in ,college ,street1 little indeed can be seen4 ,the headmaster's house1 built on the site of the old ,sustern ,spital1 is a flat-fronted modern building faced with squared flints1 and the old ,brewery presents little but a blank wall of ancient masonry4 ,the one external feature of interest is the delightful #8,old ,gateway' surmounted by a statue of the ,virgin4 ,passing under ,old ,gateway with ,college ,brew ,house on the right1 and then under ,middle ,gate into ,chamber ,court1 one is transported back immediately into mediaevalism4 ,there over ,middle ,gate is the figure of #8,sainte ,marie1' and scholars1 juniors1 at least1 if not always seniors1 as they cross the quad1 doff their hats still in reverence to the ,virgin as they have done from the beginning4 ,immediately opposite you are ,chapel and ,hall4 ,chapel1 with ,fromond's chantry used by ,lower-school #8,men1'--for ,winchester is remarkable among schools as having two chapels--and the beautiful cloisters behind it1 those cloisters which the ,founder himself seems almost to pervade and to spiritualize with his presence1 is a place to wander in and dream dreams of the past4 ,hall1 approached1 as befits its dignity1 up a grand old stairway1 is splendidly impressive1 with its magnificent open timber roof and carved wainscot1 and the ,founder's portrait--a picture of real grace and beauty--dominating the high table or dais at the other end4 ,in the lobby adjoining the kitchen they will show you the #8,trusty ,servant1' the quaint old painting emblematic of loyal and devoted service4 ,the riddle is explained in a copy of verses attached1 and the absence of any reference to expectation of reward on behalf of the #8,trusty ,sweater' is at least as suggestive as his loyalty and humble demeanour4 ,most appealing1 perhaps1 after ,hall1 possibly more even than ,cloisters1 is #8,seventh ,chamber1' ,wykeham's original schoolroom1 or part of it at least1 now used as a common study for senior ,college men1 and a veritable museum of interesting reminders of old ,wykehamical life mingled confusedly with aggressively incongruous and more modern #8intrusive deposits1'--here perhaps a framed #8,vanity ,fair' cartoon of the headmaster2 there possibly a couple of ,teddy ,bears serving as mascots--for in college life the points of contrast between ancient and modern are curious and startling1 while not the least alluring of its characteristic features is the rich flavour and vigour of college nomenclature4 #8,moab1' the boys' washing-place in earlier and less luxurious days--8,moab is my wash-pot0--is a delicious example of this4 ,college phraseology is a subject almost worthy of separate treatment by itself4 #8,seventh ,chamber ,passage1' itself originally part of ,seventh ,chamber1 leads you to #8,school1' the seventeenth-century schoolroom built by ,warden ,nicholas4 ,here you may see the #8thrones' or official seats in earlier days of headmaster and usher1 and the world-famous ,winchester emblem on the walls-- ,aut disce ,aut discede ,manet tertia sors--caedi4 which may be freely rendered-- ,learn1 or depart1 or stay and be beaten2 though it is more than doubtful whether1 in the experience of earlier ,wykehamists at least1 the first and the last-mentioned fates were at all often found to be mutually exclusive4 ,beyond is #8,meads1' where #8,domum' is yearly held1 and beyond1 again1 #8,new ,meads1' with its magnificent sward1 its lofty trees1 and its memories of #8,eton ,match'2 and right away again1 across the river1 #8,hills' lies in full view--,st4 ,catherine's ,hill1 where ,winchester boys in earlier days repaired for recreation on #8remedies' or holidays1 the joys of which may be followed out in full in ,bompas's delightful life of ,frank ,buckland4 8,manners makyth man0--one is tempted to wonder if more may not here be meant than meets the ear1 and whether #8manners1' in its ,latin equivalent mores at least1 does not wrap up a punning allusion1 after the method so dear to that age1 to ,warden ,morys1 to whose hands1 on the erection of the building1 ,wykeham first committed the future of his great college4 ,but be that as it may1 the emblem seems to sum up the spirit of the college with literal fidelity4 ,passing through its chambers1 its chapel1 its courts1 its cloisters1 one is sadly tempted to linger to recall the memory of this great headmaster1 or recount the quaint stories told of this famous warden or that1 and the names of ,ken1 ,arnold1 ,goddard1 ,gabell1 ,huntingford1 ,barter1 rise almost instinctively to one's lips4 ,we shall find their memories all piously preserved and commemorated whether in portrait1 tablet1 or building1 as for instance the ,memorial ,gateway erected as a memorial of the old ,wykehamists who fell in the ,south ,african ,war2 but here we may not stop1 and those who wish to do so can follow out their story in ,leach's ,winchester ,college or ,adams's delightful ,wykehamica4 ,but more striking than the past1 the noble traditions nobly preserved is the vitality in the present4 #8,sainte ,marie ,college' has always known how to adapt herself successfully1 as age succeeded age1 to the requirements of the day1 and has paid the truest respect to the ,founder's wishes in never allowing herself to grow old4 ,there is no frost1 mingled with the kindliness of age1 in ,winchester ,college4 ,,chapter ,,xviii ,,wolvesey--,,st4 ,,cross--,,the ,,castle ,,hall--,,the ,,round ,,table ,and for great ,arthur's seat ould ,winchester preferres1 ,whose ould ,round ,table yet she vaunteth to be hers4 ,,drayton',s ,polyolbion4 ,from ,college one turns naturally to ,wolvesey--,wolvesey with its wonderful grey stone walls1 its memories of ,saxon and ,norman1 ,plantagenet and ,stuart times4 ,here ,alfred kept his ,court1 with all the learned men of his time around him2 here the ,english ,chronicle was first compiled2 and here1 above that very ,wolvesey wall1 it may be1 the ,danish pirates captured in the ,solent were hanged--as has been already related--in retributive justice4 ,but the big blocks of ruin in ,wolvesey ,mead are of later date2 they recall to us the career of that notable figure among the ,bishops of ,winchester1 ,henry of ,blois1 ,king ,stephen's brother1 bishop from #aabi to #aaga--the masterful man1 devoted churchman1 and scheming politician1 whose story has been somewhat fully related in ,chapter ,,viii4 ,to strengthen himself he fortified ,illustration3 ,,church ,,of ,,st4 ,,lawrence1 ,,winchester ,a small but extremely interesting parish church in #8,the ,square1' of which practically all the exterior1 save the ,western ,doorway and the ,tower1 is hidden from sight by the houses and shops hemming it in on all sides4 ,every ,bishop of ,winchester on being installed proceeds in solemn procession from the ,cathedral to ,st4 ,lawrence ,church to ring the bell--a picturesque survival of feudal days4 #8,the ,square' marks the site of a palace built for his own occupation by ,william the ,conqueror4 his dwelling at ,wolvesey with an #8adulterine' castle--for he built here without royal warrant1 as he built his castles elsewhere at ,bishop's ,waltham and at ,hursley1--and he sided alternately with ,stephen and ,empress ,matilda in the civil war1 as circumstances dictated4 ,and so it befell that ,winchester itself became divided into rival camps2 ,matilda's forces held the ,royal ,castle and the ,bishop held ,wolvesey1 and1 here within his defences1 now in ruins1 the ,bishop stood the siege valiantly4 ,ultimately peace was made1 and ,winchester saw ,prince ,henry make joyful entry into her ruined streets and ratify the compact4 ,his later years were passed in works of peace and beneficence1 and for these he will always be most gratefully remembered4 ,he built the ,hospital of ,st4 ,cross1 a permanent refuge for thirteen poor brethren1 and a house of daily entertainment for the poor and needy outside its walls4 ,he placed his foundation of ,st4 ,cross under the protection of the ,knights of ,st4 ,john of ,jerusalem1 an ,order specially devoted to guarding the welfare of pilgrims and wayfarers4 ,and so the ,brethren of ,st4 ,cross still wear to-day the eight-pointed cross of the ,order and the black gown which distinguished the ,knights ,hospitallers1 and the wayfarer's dole of bread and beer may still be asked for and obtained at its hospitable gates4 ,advancement1 personal power1 and political ascendancy1 all these ,bishop ,henry desired for himself1 strove for1 won and lost in turn4 ,st4 ,cross retains its vitality still1--such is the perennial virtue of unselfish kindliness and beneficence4 ,though its fortifications were dismantled1 ,wolvesey remained the residence of the ,bishops of ,winchester for many centuries after ,henry de ,blois4 ,here1 on ,march #bh1 #acid1 in the presence chamber of ,wolvesey1 ,william of ,wykeham received the warden1 ,john ,morys1 and the seventy scholars of his ,newe ,college of ,st4 ,marie1 and gave them his blessing as they set out in solemn procession to enter into occupation of their newly erected premises4 ,in the ,civil ,war1 after ,cromwell's capture of the city1 the old ,bishop's ,castle was finally dismantled4 ,present-day ,wolvesey ,palace stands on your left as you enter from ,college ,street with the ,norman ruins and the old ,tilt yard in front of it and on your right4 ,bishop ,morley1 the friend of ,ken and ,izaak ,walton1 erected it4 ,but ,wolvesey and ,farnham together proved too heavy an episcopal burden1 and later bishops have preferred to reside at ,farnham4 ,so ,wolvesey ceased to be the ,bishop of ,winchester's official residence1 and the greater part of ,morley's building was pulled down by ,bishop ,north at the end of the eighteenth century4 ,the growing need for the division of the diocese makes it quite possible1 however1 that the ,bishops of ,winchester may again be residing in ,wolvesey ,palace1 as their predecessors did for so many hundreds of years4 ,wykeham's ,college1 #8the ,newe ,saint ,marie ,college of ,wynchester1' is but a stone's-throw from ,wolvesey4 ,the story of the ,college has been fully dealt with in a former chapter1 and so1 now1 as we pass along ,college ,street from ,wolvesey1 our thoughts may well turn to a house on the left adjoining ,college1 with memories of a different kind1 those of ,jane ,austen4 ,a tablet over the door recalls the fact of ,jane ,austen's death within its walls in #ahag4 ,she had removed here from her home at ,chawton1 near ,alton1 in hope of recovery under the medical treatment which ,winchester could afford her4 ,but the hope was vain4 ,she lies buried in the north aisle of the ,cathedral nave4 ,we know her now as among the rarest and most charming of women novelists4 ,of her we shall speak again in the chapter on #8,winchester in ,literature4' ,some half mile or so south of ,college1 beyond ,new ,meads and the meadows by the river--those meadows from which the tower and pinnacles of ,college ,chapel form so poetic a picture as they mingle with the trees around1 and the ,cathedral behind--lies ,st4 ,cross1 a foundation which has undergone many vicissitudes and been at various times 8much abused0 7see pp4 #ahh1 #ahi71 but which has happily now for many years past been rescued from the spoiler and restored to the full exercise of generous beneficence4 ,of its foundation by ,henry of ,blois we have already spoken1 but in its associations another historic name figures1 of equal prominence with ,bishop ,henry's--that of ,beaufort1 ,bishop and ,cardinal in ,henry ,,vi4's reign4 ,beaufort was a second founder1 and the domestic buildings and the fine gateway are his work4 ,along with the ,brethren with black gown and silver cross will be seen some wearing a mulberry gown1 with the ,beaufort ,rose as emblem2 these are ,brethren of the order ,beaufort founded--the ,order of ,noble ,poverty4 ,st4 ,cross is not a place to describe at all in words2 its traditions1 its characteristic customs1 its general atmosphere belong to it and to it alone2 to appreciate it it must be felt4 ,peaceful and dignified1 with the clear transparent waters of ,itchen flowing quietly by at its feet1 there is no place in ,winchester1 or indeed anywhere else1 where the sense of hallowed charm1 of serenity1 of contentment1 and of rest seems quite so natural and so pervading as here4 ,wherever else we turn in ,winchester we find some treasure or other over which to linger4 ,on the high ground forming the south-west angle of the city there is the ,county ,hall1 last surviving relic of the great royal castle1 which ,william of ,normandy first erected and which his successors added to4 ,for some six hundred years that great keep1 with its heavy battlements and frowning bastions1 scowled down upon the city and overawed its burghers4 ,yet1 grim and all but impregnable as those #8rude ribs' might seem to be1 more than one assailant found means to penetrate within4 ,here1 in #aadj1 ,matilda the ,empress1 besieged by ,stephen's ,queen1 was forced by hunger to abandon resistance1 and to seek safety by stealth and stratagem in a hasty and disastrous flight--her power of effective resistance broken finally and for ever4 ,here1 in #afde1 flushed with victory from ,naseby field1 came ,cromwell1 and1 after nine days of hot cannonade1 compelled the surrender of the citadel--a surrender which he followed up by ordering the castle to be #8slighted1' i4e4 razed to the ground4 ,the present ,castle ,hall was erected by a ,winchester monarch--,henry ,,iii41 ,henry of ,winchester4 ,here again the sense of the historic past swells and surges round you4 ,it is almost a revelation in history to walk round it and follow out in detail the memories of those whose history is personally connected with it1 their names and arms all emblazoned in the stained glass which fills the lights on either side4 ,local feeling has been just recently somewhat deeply stirred by the removal within the ,hall of ,gilbert's well-known bronze statue of ,queen ,victoria1 formerly placed in the ,abbey grounds--a removal which has evoked a very unfortunate controversy1 and as to the wisdom of which considerable cleavage of opinion exists4 ,but whatever view be taken of this1 as to the impressiveness of the great ,hall1 within and without1 or the story it has to tell1 no two opinions can be held4 ,the grand interior with its splendid columns speaks of great assemblies within its walls2 of ,parliaments such as the one held here as early as #abfe1 within a year of the death of the great ,de ,montfort1 the #8inventor1' so to speak1 of the representative assembly2 of ,state ceremonial displays such as when ,henry ,v4 received the ,french ambassadors here1 a few days only before the ,agincourt expedition sailed--as when ,henry ,,vii4 celebrated the birth of his first-born1 ,arthur of ,winchester1 ,prince of ,wales1 and as when ,henry ,,viii4 received and fted the great ,emperor ,charles ,v41 the ,charlemagne of his day2 of ,state ,trials such as that which unjustly condemned ,sir ,walter ,raleigh2 of the ,bloody ,assize and the horror of the judicial murder of ,dame ,alicia ,lisle2 while the most characteristic touch perhaps of all is given by the quaint relic hanging on the western wall1 the so-called ,king ,arthur's ,round ,table4 ,a curious relic indeed this latter1 and an ancient one1 possibly #gjj years old4 ,we shall hardly accept it1 as ,henry ,,viii4 and his royal ,spanish guest did1 as the actual table at which ,king ,arthur and his knights used to seat themselves1 even though we may read their names--,sir ,launcelot1 ,sir ,galahallt1 ,sir ,bedivere1 ,sir ,kay--inscribed upon its margin4 ,rather does it recall to us those quaintly attractive1 uncritical mediaeval days1 when historical perspective was unknown1 that glorious age when 8,once upon a time0 almost satisfied the yearnings of the historical instinct4 ,yet one may question whether we are really better off1 because for us ,king ,arthur's ,round ,table has no existence and ,arthur himself is lost in the strange background of ,moving faces and of waving hands1 that weird labyrinth where history and legend1 myth and romance1 are so strangely and inextricably interwoven2 and one turns away baffled and reluctant from many and many an old-world story1 and many and many an old-world relic such as this1 with the sense of something like a lost inheritance4 ,so sad1 so fresh1 the days that are no more4 ,there is1 however1 little real excuse for these unavailing regrets in ,winchester1 for she above all places has store of real history--and such history1 too--enough and to spare4 ,here1 for instance1 in the ,west ,gate adjoining the ,castle ,hall1 and in the ,obelisk just beyond the circuit of the old walls1 this vividness of history meets us again4 ,formerly the ,west ,gate was a blockhouse as much as a gate4 ,you can still see where the portcullis worked up and down1 and look down from the battlements of the roof through the machicolated openings which enabled defenders to meet assailants with molten lead and kindred compliments4 ,later on it was a prison4 ,on the walls of the splendid old chamber above the gateway we can see elaborate designs carved out by one poor prisoner after another1 to while away the tedium and to help him to forget the miseries of his imprisonment4 ,now the ,west ,gate is a museum with a collection of rare local interest3 early weights and measures of the days when ,winchester could still impose its standards upon others1 weapons and armour1 the gibbet of the executioner1 and the axe of the headsman4 ,but strong for defence as the ,west ,gate and city wall were1 the ,obelisk beyond recalls to us one foe whom no bar could exclude1 no bolt restrain2 for though in #afff ,winchester was straitly shut up like ,jericho of old1 and none went out and none came in1 that grim and relentless assailant1 the ,plague1 passed all barriers unchallenged1 and ,winchester became as a city of the dead4 ,then--for none dared approach--the country people held their market without and chaffered for their wares at safe distance with the men upon the wall1 and the ,obelisk1 erected in #agei1 serves to commemorate the spot where marketing was done for ,winchester citizens under such tragic conditions4 ,happily1 plague has disappeared from our midst for some #bej years4 ,in mediaeval days1 right on indeed from #acdh1 the year of the ,black ,death1 plague was all too common a visitant4 ,the sister societies of ,natives and ,aliens still survive in ,winchester1 to carry on the work of relieving widows and orphans1 first begun when plague laid its hand so heavily on the city in the #8,annus ,mirabilis' and left so many widows and orphans to relieve4 ,full of interest as the ,west ,gate is1 it leaves a sense of regret behind when we remember that it is the only one remaining of the four principal gateways which the city once possessed4 ,the artificial and curiously warped ideas of taste and sentiment which characterised the mid-,georgian period were responsible for a wholesale destruction of ,old ,winchester architectural treasures4 ,three historic gateways1 the ruins of ,hyde ,abbey1 the tomb of ,alfred the ,great1 ,bishop ,morley's ,palace of ,wolvesey1 all these and others suffered destruction1 partial or complete4 ,the ,city ,cross itself was condemned to removal1 but popular indignation1 ever ready to express itself in ,winchester as vigorously1 even in modern days1 as it was in earlier days of ,saxon and ,dane1 when popular clamour round the hustings was the due and only expression of law1 ,illustration3 ,,hursley ,,vicarage ,hursley1 five miles from ,winchester1 is the centre of #8,kebleland4' ,here ,john ,keble was parish priest for thirty-one years4 ,hursley ,church was practically rebuilt from the profits of the ,christian ,year1 and ,keble and his wife lie buried in ,hursley churchyard close to the porch on the southern side4 ,the village has memories of ,richard ,cromwell1 and there is a fine historical monument to the ,cromwell family in the tower of ,hursley ,church4 could not be restrained1 and the ,city ,cross was left undisturbed4 ,nor did the ,west ,gate escape except by accident4 ,the great room over the gateway was at that time held as an annexe to a public-house adjoining1 and so the ,west ,gate was spared merely in order that ,winchester citizens might the better enjoy their #8cakes and ale4' ,history teaches us to be grateful at times to strange benefactors4 ,to many1 with the present trend of social and political thought1 the sentiment ,das ,gasthaus als ,freund will come almost as a shock1 yet here in ,winchester we are confronted by the curious paradox1 that while water has sapped the stability of the ,cathedral1 that of the ,west ,gate has been secured by beer4 ,municipal life in ,winchester forms another chapter full of interest4 ,of her early #8gilds1' dating back perhaps to days before ,alfred1 of the ,chepemanesela1 the ,chenicteshalla1 the ,hantachenesla1 and other vaguely indicated centres of civic organisation1 where1 in ,henry ,i4's time1 the citizens in their various grades assembled to #8drink their gild1' we have already spoken4 ,her roll of mayors claims to begin with ,florence de ,lunn in #aahd4 ,whatever antiquity the ,mayoralty can justly claim--for ,florence de ,lunn can hardly be treated quite seriously--her corporate history is full and varied4 ,the new ,guildhall in the ,broadway1 some thirty years old only1 which has replaced the old ,guildhall in the ,high ,street1 possesses an interesting collection of civic portraits1 along with corporation plate1 municipal archives1 and much wealth of historic raw material4 ,the finest of these pictures1 ,king ,charles ,,ii4's portrait1 painted by ,lely1 and presented by the ,merry ,monarch himself to the city1 represents1 perhaps1 the only return with which the loyalty of the citizens towards the house of ,stuart was rewarded4 ,they lent ,king ,charles ,i4 #ajjj1 they melted their private plate1 valued at #cjj1 and their city plate1 valued at #eh more1 to help to fill his empty coffers when the ,civil ,war was raging4 ,old ,bishop ,morley1 whose memories centre closest round present-day ,wolvesey and ,farnham1 and ,bishop ,hoadly of the ,queen ,anne period1 are among the more interesting of the personalities whose effigies are here displayed4 ,many1 indeed1 are the interesting memories which ,winchester preserves of the ,merry ,monarch and his ,court2 of ,nell ,gwynn and of the valiant stand made against her by ,prebendary ,ken2 of ,sir ,christopher ,wren and the palace he commenced to build for his royal master on the site of the castle razed by ,cromwell--a great and ambitious project never completed1 but which1 under the name of the ,king's ,house1 served for many years as the military headquarters of the city till a great fire swept it away in #ahid1 to make room for the present barracks1 erected1 soon afterwards1 on very nearly the same site4 ,another interesting ,guildhall portrait is that of ,edward ,cole1 ,mayor in #aeig1 a patriotic citizen who himself subscribed #ej--;a large sum for one man in those days--towards the ,queen's war fund in days of the ,armada1 and a #8gubernator' some years later of ,christes ,hospitall1 ,winchester1 founded1 by ,peter ,symonds1 in #afjg alike for the maintenance of the aged and the education of the young--a foundation possessing a delightful old ,jacobean building1 just beyond the ,close wall1 out of which has grown1 almost within the last decade1 on a wide and open site on the outskirts of the city1 a rapidly developing school of modern type1 where the #8children' of ,peter ,symonds1 in largely increased numbers1 receive a far wider education than was possible when he first called them into existence4 ,his will is a curious and characteristic document4 ,it occupied an enormous number of folios4 ,blue ,coat schoolboys1 practically until the removal of the school to ,horsham1 showed respect to his memory by some sixty of their number attending a special ,good ,friday ,service at the church of ,all ,hallows1 ,lombard ,street1 at which sixpences and raisins were distributed1 in accordance with his will2 and his ,winchester scholars and ,brethren keep his memory by an annual procession to service at the ,cathedral on ,st4 ,peter's ,day1 with a special sermon and quaint ceremonial observance4 ,such are some of the matters of interest1 small and great1 which meet you wherever you turn in ,winchester--everywhere there is some genius loci1 some cricket installed1 and chirping on the hearth4 ,here it is a quaint tavern-sign such as you can read on the outskirts4 ,as you leave the city you read the legend 8,last ,out10 as you approach from without you read 8,first ,in40 ,or it is a name of some street--,jewry ,street1 for instance1 recalling the times when1 as already narrated1 the ,jews formed a powerful element in the commercial prosperity of the city1 and had a ,ghetto here--or ,staple ,garden1 reminiscent of the great ,wool ,hall1 where the #8,tron' or weighing-machine of the ,wool ,staple was kept1 when ,winchester was the mart where the wool trade of the south of ,england centred4 ,and here and there are darker and more sombre recollections1 such as the tablet outside the ,city ,museum serves to remind us of the moving tragedy of the execution of ,dame ,alicia ,lisle in ,september #afhe1 on a spot in the open roadway1 in front of what then was the ,market ,house4 ,then1 too1 there are glorious old houses1 ,tudor and mediaeval1 like ,god ,begot ,house and the so-called ,cheesehill ,old ,rectory1 and the delightful houses erected by ,sir ,christopher ,wren himself--those inhabited now by ,dr4 ,england and ,captain ,crawford in ,southgate ,street for instance1 and the house in ,st4 ,peter's ,street erected for the ,duchess of ,portsmouth1 of unpleasant memory4 ,these are merely random examples of the kind of interest which ,winchester presents to those who wander through her streets with eyes to see and ears to hear4 ,for the casual visitor ,winchester has much to offer2 for the student of history she has more2 but her wealth of treasure can only be apprehended adequately by those who are privileged to dwell within her charmed circle1 for her harvest of attraction is too wide to be garnered save by those who bring extended opportunity as well as love and reverence to the task4 ,,chapter ,,xix ,,winchester ,,in ,,literature ,and as imagination bodies forth ,the forms of things unknown1 the poet's eye ,clothes them with shapes1 and gives to airy nothing ,a local habitation and a name4 ,it is always a pleasing occupation to follow out the associations of human fancy which often invest persons and places with an interest1 and indeed a romantic charm1 to which the cold-eyed historian or dryasdust critic is entirely unresponsive1 and if ,winchester as it first appeared to us1 as we looked down from the brow of ,st4 ,giles's ,hill1 seemed to throb with the life and interest of a departed age1 and of historical personages long since passed away1 so too we shall find that it possesses associations of the purely literary type1 not indeed fit to challenge comparison with the glorious pageantry of its historic past which we have attempted1 all too inadequately1 to present upon our stage1 but not unworthy to be chronicled and to be included in her volume of romance and recollection4 ,her points of contact with literature have been many1 and yet it would be wrong to describe her as a literary city4 ,no poet of note1 no great writer1 has1 in recent days at all events1 claimed her as parent2 her acquaintance has been rather with literary persons than with literature itself1 for though she has attracted many to make her in some form or other their theme1 but little of real weight in any but ancient literature has first seen the light beneath her auspices4 ,for all this she has1 in literature as in life1 her story to tell1 and that an ancient one4 ,the first literary associations of ,winchester are1 as is but natural1 historical ones1 and the first mention of her in literature is found in ,bede1 who records for us1 among other scanty details1 her name1 #8,venta1 quae a gente ,saxonum ,ventanceastir appellatur'2 she next appears in a full flood of glory1 the seat of the learned and literary court of ,alfred1 from which he gave the world the treasures of his literary efforts--the ,consolations of ,bothius1 ,gregory's ,pastoral ,care1 ,orosius1 and ,bede's ,ecclesiastical ,history1 all rendered into the vernacular1 and more important far than all of these1 the great thesaurus of early national history1 the ,english ,chronicle1 the history of which we have already related1 and from which we have quoted so constantly in our earlier chapters1 to be followed by the equally momentous ,domesday ,book--curious as it may seem to include this among literary productions4 ,following from this we have a wide and almost bewildering series of chroniclers1 historians1 and annalists1 some of whom1 like ,william of ,malmesbury1 ,henry ,knighton1 and ,matthew ,paris1 record details of her career incidentally as general items in the history of the land1 while others1 like ,precentor ,wulfstan and the annalists of ,ealden ,mynstre and ,newan ,mynstre1 laboured at ,winchester in their respective scriptoria1 producing not merely wonderful works like the ,benedictional of ,st4 thelwold and the ,golden ,book of ,edgar1 but local histories in goodly store1 the ,hyde ,liber ,vitae and ,liber de ,hyda1 and the later monkish annals of ,plantagenet days--,rudborne's ,major ,historia ,wintoniae1 the anonymously written ,annales de ,wintonia1 and others4 ,prominent among these various chroniclers was ,geoffrey of ,monmouth1 who1 romancist and fabricator as he was1 has yet rendered valuable service by preserving the ,british legends as they survived among the ,brythonic folk1 and has given us--and let us be duly grateful--the ,arthurian legend in all its suggestive elusiveness and mystery1 centring round ,winchester and ,silchester1 with ,arthur the ,christian ,king1 ,merlin the ,mage1 ,dubric the ,high ,saint1 and many another--a legend which passed through many languages and many lands1 gathering store of added marvels on the way1 the customary guerdon of such literary wanderings1 to reappear in strange unwonted guises1 as in ,layamond's ,brut and the ,morte d',arthur of ,malorie4 ,and the legendary lore of ,winchester is far from being her least attractive literary asset3 we have dealt with this subject fairly fully already--some may perhaps deem too fully1--yet is not legend but the alter ego of history1 and are not myth and legend1 sober fact and imaginative creation1 after all merely the multicoloured strata in the complete rainbow of presentment of vital truth1 passing and repassing each into other by nice gradation and imperceptible advance8 ,but all these are but prehistoric as it were1 when ,english as a language was not1 and monastic ,latin and ,anglo-,saxon the muddy media of literary communication4 ,the ,winchester stream in ,english literature begins to flow at first with feeble current--a distich or so of uncouth verse1 or a casual reference1 as in ,piers ,plowman1 ,leland1 ,camden1 or elsewhere4 ,drayton1 in his ,polyolbion1 has some twenty lines or so on the ,itchen1 referring to the ,round ,table of ,arthur at ,winchester1 and the towns on her course1 speaking of 444 that wondrous ,pond whence she derives her head1 ,and places by the way1 by which shee's honoured1 7,old ,winchester1 that stands neere in her middle way1 ,and ,hampton1 at her fall1 into the ,solent ,sea71 and ,ken and ,walton1 in later ,stuart days1 come upon the scene4 ,ken is a real ,winchester possession--educated at ,winchester ,college1 and later on1 ,prebendary of the ,cathedral1 he wrote his well-known and still widely-used ,manual of ,prayer for the use of the scholars of ,winchester ,college1 and his ,morning and ,evening ,hymns breathe the same spirit of the inner religious life afterwards so beautifully reflected in ,keble's ,christian ,year4 ,his preferment to the see of ,bath and ,illustration3 ,,winchester ,,from ,,st4 ,,giles',s ,,hill ,from ,st4 ,giles's ,hill1 where in mediaeval days the world-famous ,fair of ,st4 ,egidius or ,st4 ,giles was held1 an unequalled view of ,winchester city can be obtained4 ,the ,cathedral1 ,wolvesey1 the ,college1 the ,guildhall1 the ,high ,street1 the ,alfred ,statue1 the ,old ,guildhall1 the ,westgate1 can all be seen4 ,the dark clump of trees on the sky-line is the so-called ,oliver's ,battery4 ,wells arose too out of his sturdy refusal to countenance the ,merry ,monarch's irregular life1 for he refused to let ,mistress ,eleanor ,gwynne have the use of his house to lodge in1 a refusal which angered the king at the time1 but conciliated his respect1 for on the bishopric falling vacant he declared that none should have it but the 8good little man who refused his lodging to poor ,nelly40 ,izaak ,walton1 ,ken's relative1 made ,winchester his residence during the closing years of his long life--a man of culture and some literary pretension1 apart altogether from his immortal ,compleat ,angler1 for his lives of ,donne and ,herbert attained to some celebrity2 tradition connects a certain summer-house by the stream in the ,deanery garden with him and his fishing1 and in several places in his ,compleat ,angler he makes allusion to our ,winchester streams1 showing that he had ofttimes baited his angle by one or other of its waters4 ,peace to his soul--he rests in the ,cathedral1 in ,silkstede's ,chapel1 and the verses over his tomb1 though devoid of all literary merit1 are said to have been written by ,ken his kinsman4 ,our next possession is a greater name--and that1 moreover1 a ,hampshire1 though not in any real sense a ,winchester one--the ,hampshire novelist1 the most charming and natural of women writers1 ,jane ,austen4 ,here in the early days of #ahag1 when a deadly and insidious malady had attacked her1 she came with her sister ,cassandra to lodge in a house in ,college ,street1 occupied then by a ,mrs4 ,david1 in the vain hope that ,winchester medical skill might restore her strength4 ,the following letter from her pen1#c written at this period1 reveals the characteristic espiglerie of the writer1 which not even advancing weakness could disarm or subdue4 ,,mrs4 ,,david',s1 ,,college ,,street1 ,,winton1 ,tuesday1 ,may #bgth4 ,there is no better way1 my dearest ,e41 of thanking you for your affectionate concern for me during my illness than by telling you myself1 as soon as possible1 that ,i continue to get better4 ,i will not boast of my handwriting--neither that nor my face have yet recovered their proper beauty2 but in other respects ,i gain strength very fast2 am now out of bed from #i in the morning to #aj at night2 upon the sofa1 it is true1 but ,i eat my meals with ,aunt ,cassandra in a rational way1 and can employ myself1 and walk from one room to another4 ,mr4 ,lyford says he will cure me1 and if he fails ,i shall draw up a memorial and lay it before the ,dean and ,chapter1 and have no doubt of redress from that pious1 learned1 and disinterested body4 ,our lodgings are very comfortable4 ,we have a neat little drawing-room with a bow window1 overlooking ,dr4 ,gabell's garden4444 ,on ,thursday1 which is a confirmation and a holiday1 we are to get ,charles a relative--then a boy at the ,college out to breakfast4 ,we have had but one visit from him1 poor fellow1 as he is in sick-room1 but he hopes to be out to-night4444 ,god bless you1 my dear ,e4 ,if ever you are ill1 may you be as tenderly nursed as ,i have been4 ,may the same blessed alleviations of anxious1 sympathising friends be yours2 and may you possess1 as ,i dare say you will1 the greatest blessing of all1 in the consciousness of not being unworthy of their love4 ,i could not feel this4--,your very affectionate aunt1 ,j4 ,a4 ,poor ,jane ,austen1 the rally was but a momentary one1 and an untimely death cut short her career just as she was developing to her best work4 ,she is buried in the ,cathedral1 where1 curiously1 the flat stone slab over her body speaks eloquently of her benevolence of heart1 sweetness of temper1 and ,christian patience and hope1 but not one word of her literary skill or claims as an authoress--the only reference to these is in the indirect phrase 8the extraordinary endowments of her mind40 ,so little was her right place in literature then realized1 that some among her friends saw her appearance as a novelist rather with concern than with approval1 and her literary ventures were even referred to apologetically4 ,posterity has amply atoned for this neglect3 the ,cathedral possesses two memorials of her--a brass and a stained-glass window2 and she has long since been admitted to the high measure of appreciation to which her naturalness and sincerity justly entitle her4 ,the ,dr4 ,gabell referred to in the letter was1 of course1 the well-known ,dr4 ,gabell1 headmaster of the ,college1 mentioned in the previous chapter1 a characteristic figure famous in his day1 a picture of whom1 had she been spared1 she might perhaps have left us1 limned in her own nervous and inimitable manner2 but1 alas6 it was not to be4 ,fortunately the house she occupied is known1 and a commemorative tablet1 placed over the door1 records appropriately her sojourn there and her untimely death4 ,following close upon ,jane ,austen came another1 with a name ever to be honoured in song--a summer migrant merely1 it is true1 or rather an autumn one1--whose light was destined to be shortly afterwards suddenly extinguished also4 ,john ,keats1 the poet1 who came here in ,august #ahai from ,shanklin1 where 8,keats's ,green0 preserves his memory1 for a visit of some two months' duration--8the last good days of his life40 ,several considerations dictated his visit to ,winchester1 among others1 the desire to have access to a good library1 a desire destined1 quite unaccountably1 to disappointment4 ,his letters written from ,winchester are full and charming literary productions3 he describes the #8maiden-ladylike gentility' of her streets2 the door-steps always #8fresh from the flannel'--the knockers with a staid1 serious1 and almost awful quietness about them2 the ,high ,street as quiet as a lamb1 the door-knockers #8dieted to three raps per diem'2--in such happy1 delicate phrases he hits off the ,winchester of the day4 ,of the place itself he gives us interesting touches3 the air on one of its downs is #8worth sixpence a pint'2 the beautiful streams full of trout delight him2 the ,cathedral1 fourteen centuries old1 enchants his imagination2 while the foundation of ,st4 ,cross he finds to be greatly abused4 ,where he lodged we know not1 dearly as we should like to--we can only form such conclusions as the following clues#d point to3 ,i take a walk every day for an hour before dinner1 and this is generally my walk4 ,i go out the back gate across one street into the ,cathedral yard1 which is always interesting2 there ,i pass under the trees along a paved path1 pass the beautiful front of the ,cathedral1 turn to the left under a stone doorway--then ,i am on the other side of the building1 which leaving behind me1 ,i pass on through two ,college-like squares1 seemingly built for the dwelling-place of ,deacons and ,prebendaries1 furnished with grass and shaded with trees2 then ,i pass through one of the old city gates and then you are in one ,college ,street1 through which ,i pass1 and at the end thereof crossing some meadows1 and at last a country alley of gardens1 ,i arrive at the foundation of ,st4 ,cross1 which is a very interesting old place1 both for its ,gothic tower and ,alms square and also for the appropriation of its rich rents to a relation of the ,bishop of ,winchester4 ,then ,i pass over ,st4 ,cross meadows till you come to the most beautifully clear river4 ,now this is only one mile of my walk4#e ,another clue1 which locates the house very close to the ,high ,street1 if not in it1 is given by the following3 ,we heard distinctly a noise patting down the ,high ,street as of a walking cane of the good old ,dowager breed1 and a little minute after we heard a less voice observe1 8,what a noise the ferril made--it must be loose40#f ,winchester streets are less staid and genteel now1 and the ,high ,street would hardly echo responsive to such repressed sounds to-day4 ,two months only the visit lasted1 months of tense compression and rich utterance of song4 ,hyperion 7which he never finished71 ,lamia1 ,the ,eve of ,st4 ,agnes1 ,la ,belle ,dame sans ,merci--all these in one form or other came under his pen for completion or revision1 while his ,ode to ,autumn1 the most perfect of all his odes1 was wholly a ,winchester production inspired by his circumstances and surroundings4 ,the ,german poet might almost have had ,keats prophetically before him when he sang3 ,singst du nicht dein ganzes ,leben1 ,sing doch in der ,jugend ,drang6 ,nur im ,blthenmond erheben ,nachtigallen ihren ,sang4 ,e'en though after years be silent1 ,sing while youthful passions throng1 ,only in the fervid spring-time ,nightingales pour forth their song4 ,but no after years1 alas6 were to succeed1 and ,keats's fervid #8,blthenmond' was all his allotted span4 ,winchester is happy in the memory of his eventful connection with her1 brief in time though it was4 ,our next name is ,thackeray1 who seems to have loved to locate his scenes in our city and neighbourhood1 though in general his references have too little local colour to permit of identification--assuming1 that is1 that any such local image was really intended4 ,vanity ,fair and ,esmond are full of local allusions2 ,sir ,pitt ,crawley1 for instance1 would appear to derive his names from ,pitt and ,crawley1 two villages close to ,winchester2 and in ,esmond1 ,hampshire allusions1 tantalisingly veiled1 it is true1 seem to meet and to baffle you everywhere4 ,it seems impossible to avoid identifying ,castlewood1 with its ruined house battered down by ,cromwell1 and the ,bell ,inn with ,basing ,house and ,basingstoke2 and while ,alton1 ,alresford1 and ,crawley are all mentioned1 it is round ,winchester that interest centres and perplexes most4 ,where else in literature is a scene so inimitably conjured up and told so charmingly and with such restraint1 where else is the real ,thackeray so fully revealed1 as when ,esmond rides on from ,walcote to the #8,george' at ,winchester on the fateful #bith ,december1 and walked straight to the ,cathedral4 ,the organ was playing1 the winter's day was already growing grey1 as he passed under the street arch into the ,cathedral yard and made his way into the ancient solemn edifice4 ,wonderful is the chapter that follows--when ,esmond and his #8mistress1' reconciled once more1 first become mutually conscious of their love1 and the words of the anthem1 8,he that goeth forth and weepeth shall doubtless come again with rejoicing1 bringing his sheaves with him10 find their joyous refrain in the loving words they exchange4 ,but where is ,walcote8 ,conjecture would almost naturally settle on ,lainston ,house1 some three miles away1 the memories of which1 in the person of the notorious ,duchess of ,kingston1 doubtless suggested the character of ,beatrix the incomparable1 the breaker of hearts1 the wilful and selfish beauty1 did not distance put this out of question4 ,prior's ,barton ,house1 at ,st4 ,cross1 would fit us better4 ,but the problem is a baffling one1 if indeed it has any solution at all4 ,of a different kind are the memories which linger round the immediate neighbourhood--the villages of ,twyford1 ,otterbourne1 ,hursley4 ,at ,twyford the poet ,pope was sent to school1 and in a house close by the great ,dr4 ,benjamin ,franklin composed his autobiography2 ,otterbourne was the birthplace and lifelong home of ,charlotte ,yonge1 the high-minded and accomplished1 whose books will always be a standard for what is highest and most womanly in fiction--who loved to weave the details of local association with the stories she told so skilfully and well2 and on a higher level still we have at ,hursley the memories of ,keble and the ,christian ,year1--not that ,keble wrote the ,christian ,year at ,hursley1 though his connection with the place as curate commenced before it was completed1 but his life-work was in reality here4 ,hursley ,church1 practically rebuilt by him from the profits of the sale of his ,christian ,year1 is his truest memorial1 and the beautiful church and peaceful churchyard1 where he sleeps his last earthly sleep1 will be ever a spot of hallowed association and pilgrimage4 ,winchester may be proud of its hymn-writers3 ,ken and ,keble were two1 and a third less well known1 but certainly deserving to be honoured1 was ,william ,whiting1 master of the ,college ,choir ,school some two generations or so back1 whose beautiful hymn1 8,eternal ,father1 strong to save10 will ever hold a high place in the affections of church-going people4 ,following on these memories we have a host of references in modern fiction which centre more or less definitely round the neighbourhood4 ,trollope's ,barchester has been conjecturally identified with ,winchester1 and there is a wonderfully minute and circumstantial correspondence in ,the ,warden between the details of ,hiram's ,hospital and ,st4 ,cross4 ,miss ,braddon takes us to ,winchester indeed1 but gives us little1 if any1 actual picture of the city4 ,the immortal ,sherlock ,holmes honoured it also with a visit in the ,adventure of the ,copper ,beeches1 keeping an appointment at the #8,black ,swan1' 8an inn of repute in the ,high ,street10 and the ,cathedral and ,close seem to be suggested in the ,silence of ,dean ,maitland4 ,allusions direct1 and what seem allusions barely veiled1 are frequent1 but none can vie in tragic interest and solemn faithfulness with the last awful scene in ,hardy's ,tess of the ,d',urbervilles--when ,angel ,clare and ,liza1 her husband and sister1 are awaiting the moment of poor ,tess's execution3-- ,when they had reached the top of the ,west ,hill the clocks in the town struck eight4 ,each gave a start at the notes1 and walking onwards yet a few steps they reached the first milestone 444 and waited in paralysed suspense beside the stone4 ,the prospect from the summit was almost unlimited4 ,in the valley beneath1 the city they had just left1 its more prominent buildings showing as in an isometric drawing--among them the broad ,cathedral tower1 with its ,norman windows and immense length of aisle and nave2 the spires of ,st4 ,thomas's2 the pinnacled tower of the ,college2 and more to the right the tower and gables of the ancient hospice1 where to this day the pilgrim may receive his dole of bread and ale4444 ,against these far stretches of country rose1 in front of the other city edifices1 a large red brick building with level grey roof1 and rows of short barred windows speaking captivity1 the whole contrasting greatly by its formalism with the quaint irregularities of the ,gothic erections4444 ,from the middle of the building an ugly flat-topped octagonal tower ascended against the east horizon1 and viewed from this spot1 on its shady side and against the light1 seemed the one blot on the city's beauty4 ,yet it was with this blot and not with the beauty that the two gazers were concerned4 ,upon the cornice of the tower a tall staff was fixed4 ,their eyes were riveted on it4 ,a few minutes after the hour had struck1 something moved slowly up the staff and extended itself upon the breeze4 ,it was a black flag4#g ,poor ,tess6 was it necessary for the author to mete out measure thus cruelly upon the children of his imagination--was it kind to ,winchester to burden her memories with one so appallingly harrowing1 so much in contrast with her quiet peace8 ,and yet1 after all1 is it anything more than retributive justice8 ,have not her citizens--those of a generation or so back1 at least--been responsible for permitting the one really commanding elevation and landmark she possesses to be marred and dishonoured by this same #8blot1' these obtrusive prison-walls1 capped by this self-same #8ugly flat-topped octagonal tower'8 ,is not rather the creator of ,tess displaying a fine and just critical perception in thus exacting from them the full literary penalty for so unpardonable an outrage on the outward attractiveness of their own fair city8 ,such are some of the phantoms which pursue or elude us as we pass to and fro through the circle of ,winchester and its surroundings--yet are they actual phantoms8 ,have not these seemingly impalpable nothings as complete an identity as the memories and records of the actual happenings of the past8 ,the writer well recollects1 after hunting through ,salisbury and exploring its treasures of architecture and interest1 the delight with which he came upon the old ,cathedral organ1 now for some years past removed from the ,cathedral to one of the city churches1 and recognized in it a real bond of relationship--not because it was originally the gift of ,george ,,iii41 though that indeed was the case1 but because it was the organ on which ,dickens's ,tom ,pinch had played when the ,cathedral service was over1 and his friend the organist's assistant had permitted him to touch the keys4 ,not a great circumstance1 nor a great character--far from it1--but sufficient to supply the one touch of human sympathy by which soul recognizes soul1 and which binds all--past and present1 student and subject1 reader and author--alike in one4 ,and even as these phantoms1 whether of history or legend1 of actual existence or fancy1 have been conjured up before us for some brief spell1 let us1 now our task has drawn to a close1 bid them adieu with what kindliness of recollection we may3 ,come like shadows1 so depart4 ,index ,the titles in black type refer to illustrations4 ,adam of ,gurdon1 #abc lfeah1 #eh thelbert1 #cb thelred the ,redeless1 #fa1 #he thelwold1 ,bishop1 #bj1 #cj1 #di1 #ed1 #eh1 #gh1 #he1 #adg1 #aec1 #aed thelwulf1 #cj1 #cb1 #he1 #aec ,alfred1 ,king1 #e1 #cb1 #cd1 #ia1 #adc1 #aeb1 #aec ,alfred1 a refugee1 #ch ,alfred1 statue of1 #db ,alresford1 #aaa1 #ahd ,alswitha1 #da1 #ia1 #ade ,alton1 ,pass of1 #abc ,alwarenestret1 #id ,alwine1 #ga ,anderida1 #ae ,anselm1 ,archbishop1 #hg1 #if ,antonine1 ,itineraries1 #ae ,arthur1 ,king1 #ae1 #afh1 #ahc ,arthur1 ,prince1 #aea1 #agc ,arthur1 ,round ,table1 #ba1 #afh1 #agd1 #ahd ,asser1 ,bishop1 #cf1 #dj ,assize1 ,bloody1 #g1 #age ,athelstan1 ,king1 #dc ,augustine1 #ba ,aulus ,plautius1 #ae ,austen1 ,jane1 #g1 #aed1 #aga1 #ahe ,avington ,park1 #bb ,barons' war1 #aac ,beaufort1 ,cardinal1 #adg1 #aea1 #aga ,bede 7,venerable71 #bb ,benedictines1 #aca ,birinus1 #bc1 #bd1 #aec1 #aed ,bishop's ,waltham1 #afb1 #afi ,black ,death1 #aci1 #afj ,bredenestret1 #id ,broadway1 #agg ,browne1 ,harold1 ,bishop1 #aed ,bucchestret1 #ic1 #id ,burton1 ,dr41 #afc ,buttercross1 #hj1 #aah1 #agg ,cdmon1 #cf ,cr ,gwent1 #ad ,calais1 #aba ,calpestret1 #id ,camden1 #adc ,castle1 ,norman1 at ,winchester1 #hf1 #id1 #agb ,castle1 ,brabantine merchants in ,winchester1 #aae ,cathedral1 #h1 #bi ,cathedral of thelwold1 #ef1 #gg ,cathedral1 bedesmen1 #d ,cathedral1 pilgrims at1 #abh ,cathedral1 preservation of1 #gg1 #aee ,cathedral1 transformation by ,wykeham1 #adi ,cathedral 7,winchester71 #bc1 #adf ,celts1 #ab ,charlemagne1 #bg ,charles ,,ii41 #f1 #agh ,charles ,v4 7,emperor71 #f1 #agd ,chenictes1 #if ,chenichetehalla1 #if1 #agg ,chepemanesela1 #if1 #agg ,cheyney ,court1 #aee ,cheyney ,court and ,close ,gate1 #aab ,chilcombe1 #dg ,christes ,hospitall1 #e1 #agi ,christian ,year 7,keble71 #aib ,christianity in ,hampshire1 #ba ,clausentum 7,southampton71 #ae1 #ah ,close1 the1 #abe ,cnut1 #e1 #fe1 #he1 #ia1 #add1 #aec ,colbrand1 #dd1 #ia ,cole1 ,edward1 ,mayor1 #agh ,colet1 ,dean1 #afj ,college1 ,brew ,house1 #afd ,college1 ,winchester1 #ade1 #aeh ,commoners1 #afc ,county ,hall1 #agb ,cromwell1 ,oliver1 #agb ,cromwell1 ,thomas1 #adb ,curfew1 #hj ,curle1 ,bishop1 #ade ,danemark ,mead1 #dg1 #ia ,danes1 #bh1 #cf1 #fj1 #he1 #aec ,danihel 7,bishop71 #be ,david1 ,king of ,scotland1 #aje ,dean and ,chapter of ,winchester1 #add ,deanery1 #ade1 #aee ,deanery1 ,the1 #aje ,de ,montfort1 ,simon1 #aac1 #agc ,domesday ,book1 #gb1 #hj1 #ib1 #ahb ,domesday 7,winchester71 #ib ,domum1 #aff ,dorchester1 #bc ,drayton's ,polyolbion1 #ahd ,dunstan 7,archbishop71 #cj1 #ej1 #ef ,ealden ,mynstre1 #da1 #dd1 #ea1 #ahc ,east ,gate1 #id1 #ie ,easton1 #if ,edgar1 #cj1 #dh1 #di1 #ei1 #he ,edmund1 ,king1 #dh ,edred1 ,king1 #dh ,edward the ,confessor1 #ff ,edward ,,iii41 ,king1 #abj ,edward1 ,prince1 #aad ,edward the ,elder1 ,king1 #dc1 #ia ,edwy1 ,king1 #di ,edyngton1 ,bishop1 #adg1 #aea ,egbert1 #bg1 #he1 #aec ,election chamber1 #afb ,emma 7lfgyfu71 ,queen1 #fb1 #fe1 #he1 #ia1 #aec ,english ,chronicle1 #bb1 #cd1 #ci1 #dj1 #ej1 #fa1 #fi1 #hb1 #aja1 #afh1 #ahb ,escheopes1 #ie ,esmond1 #aij ,estals1 #ie ,ethelmar1 ,bishop1 #aed ,eton ,college1 #aeb ,evesham1 battle1 #aad ,feudal system1 #hj ,flesmangere ,stret1 #id ,font 7cathedral71 #ajj ,fox1 ,bishop1 #adg1 #aea ,franklin1 ,benjamin1 #aib ,friars in ,winchester1 #aci ,fromond's ,chantry1 #afg ,fyfhyde1 ,walter1 ,abbot1 #aci ,gabell1 ,dr41 #aff1 #ahg ,gardiner1 ,bishop1 #aea ,geoffrey of ,monmouth1 #bj1 #ahc ,george1 #aba1 #aia ,george ,hotel1 #ig ,gere 7,gar7 ,stret1 #ic ,gewissas1 #bj1 #bb ,ghetto1 #ig1 #ahj ,gild merchant1 #df1 #hj1 #aba ,gilds1 #ie1 #agg ,godbegot ,house1 #fb ,godbiete1 #fb1 #hj1 #abj ,godfrey de ,lucy1 ,bishop1 #aaa1 #adg ,godwine1 ,earl1 #fe1 #ff1 #he ,godwine1 ,earl1 death of1 #fi1 #aec ,golde ,stret1 #id ,gospel ,oak1 #bb ,grimbald1 ,abbot1 #da ,guild ,hall1 #ig ,guy of ,warwick1 #df1 #ia ,hdda1 ,bishop1 #bc ,hamble1 #cb ,hamble ,river1 #dj ,hampshire1 ,christianity in1 #ba ,hampshire1 ,victoria ,history of1 #gb ,hantachenesle1 #id1 #if1 #agg ,hardy1 ,thomas1 #aic ,harold1 ,king1 #fe ,harold ,,ii41 ,king1 #ga ,harthacnut1 #fe1 #he1 #aec ,hempage ,wood1 #gg ,henry ,i41 #f1 #hj1 #hh1 #ih ,henry ,,ii41 ,king1 #aje1 #aaj ,henry ,,iii41 ,king1 #f1 #aaa1 #aed1 #agc ,henry ,,iv41 ,king1 #aea ,henry ,v41 #agc ,henry ,,viii41 #f1 #ia1 #adj1 #agc ,henry of ,blois 7,bishop71 #bb1 #fd1 #ib1 #ajj1 #aed1 #afh1 #aga ,henry of ,blois1 ,papal ,legate1 #ajb ,heptarchy1 #bf ,hereward the ,wake1 #dh1 #he ,high ,street1 #dh ,hoadley 7,bishop71 #aed1 #agh ,horne 7,bishop71 #add ,hours1 services of1 #acc ,hursley1 #aib ,hursley ,vicarage1 #agf ,hyda1 ,liber de1 #de1 #ej1 #ed1 #ahc ,hyde1 ,abbey1 #da1 #ij1 #aje1 #aae1 #abg1 #acc1 #ade ,hyde ,abbey1 dissolved1 #adc ,hyde1 ,liber ,vit of1 #fd1 #ahc ,itchen ,abbas1 #da ,itchen ,stoke1 ,watersplash at1 #hi ,james ,i41 #f ,jewry ,street1 #ig ,jews1 #ig ,joan of ,navarre1 #aea ,john1 ,king1 #f1 #aaa ,julius ,csar1 #ae ,judith1 ,countess1 #hc ,judith1 ,queen1 #cf ,keats1 ,john1 #c1 #ahh ,keble1 ,john1 #aec1 #aib ,ken 7,bishop71 #aec1 #aff1 #agj1 #agh1 #ahh ,kenulphus 7,kenwalh71 #bc1 #he1 #adg1 #aec ,king's ,gate1 #ie1 #ih1 #aad1 #abc1 #acj ,king's ,gate1 #gc ,kingsmill1 ,william 7,prior71 #add ,kitchin1 ,dean1 #acf ,knighton1 ,henry1 #dg1 #aje1 #ahc ,knights of ,st4 ,john 7,hospitallers71 #ajg1 #afi ,kynegils1 #bb1 #bd1 #cb1 #adg1 #aec ,lachenictahalla1 #if ,lainston ,house1 #aia ,langton's ,chapel1 #aej ,lanfranc1 ,archbishop1 #gg1 #hh ,leach's ,winchester ,college1 #afg ,leland1 #adc ,lely1 #agh ,leofric1 ,earl1 #ff ,liberty of ,godbiete1 #fb ,liberty of the ,soke1 #aai ,lisle1 ,dame ,alice1 #g1 #agd ,london1 #gd ,magdalen ,college1 ,oxford1 #aeb ,magdalen ,hill1 #aj ,manners makyth man1 #f1 #aeh1 #aff ,martyr ,worthy1 #hj ,mary1 ,queen1 #aea ,mary1 ,queen1 #e ,mathew of ,paris1 #aae1 #ahc ,matilda1 ,empress1 #e1 #ajb1 #afi1 #agb ,mayor1 #aai ,meads1 #adj1 #aff ,menstre ,stret1 #id ,middle gate1 ,college1 #afd ,mirabel ,close1 #acb1 #aee ,moab1 #afe ,moberley 7,doctor71 #afc ,monastic life1 #acj ,morley 7,bishop71 #aed1 #agj1 #agh ,mortuary chests1 #bd1 #bh1 #cb1 #fd1 #aec ,morys1 ,john1 #aff1 #agj ,naseby1 #agb ,natives and ,aliens1 #agf ,nell ,gwynne1 #agh1 #ahe ,new ,college1 ,oxford1 #aei ,new ,forest1 #hj1 #hh ,newan ,mynstre1 #cd1 #da1 #dc1 #ea1 #fi1 #ga1 #ij ,norman ,conquest1 #gc ,novices1 ,master of1 #ace ,nunna ,mynstre 7,st4 ,mary's ,abbey71 #da1 #ed1 #ih1 #ajd1 #aji1 #aah1 #ade1 #ahc ,obedientiarii1 #acc ,obelisk1 #age ,old ,minster1 #fc1 #fd1 #ff1 #fi ,oliver's ,battery1 #h ,order of ,noble ,poverty1 #agb ,osberga1 #cf ,otterbourne1 #aib ,oxford1 #aeb ,palm ,hall1 #abf ,parliament at ,winchester1 #aad ,pass of ,alton1 #abc ,pavilionis ,aula1 #abb1 #abf ,peter de ,rupibus 7,bishop71 #aab1 #aed ,peter ,symonds1 #agi ,pevensey1 #ae ,philip of ,spain1 #aea ,piepowder ,court1 #abf ,piers ,plowman1 #abe ,pilgrims1 #abf ,pilgrims' ,hall1 #abh1 #aee ,pilgrims' ,way1 #abi ,plague in ,winchester1 #age ,plantagenets1 #aji ,plegmund1 #dc ,polyolbion1 ,drayton's1 #ahd ,portchester1 #aj ,portus ,magnus 7,portchester71 #ae1 #ah ,raleigh1 #f1 #agd ,richard of ,devizes1 #ig ,richard ,i41 ,king1 #ig1 #aaj1 #aea ,robert1 ,earl of ,gloucester1 #ajd ,roger ,bacon1 #aac ,rome1 ,alfred at1 #cb ,roman roads1 #ag1 #ai ,roman occupation1 #ae ,roman walls1 #af ,round table1 #ba1 #afh1 #agd1 #ahd ,rudborne 7,major ,historia71 #df1 #ee1 #fc1 #ga1 #hj1 #ahc ,rufus1 #e1 #fe1 #gi1 #hg1 #hh1 #ajh1 #aec ,st4 thelwold 7,benedictional of71 #eg1 #ahc ,st4 ,alphege1 #eh ,st4 ,bartholomew1 ,hyde1 church of1 #ach ,st4 ,brice's ,day1 #fa ,st4 ,catherine's ,hill1 #i ,st4 ,catherine's ,hill1 #aj1 #fd1 #aff ,st4 ,cross1 #fd ,st4 ,cross1 #e1 #ajj1 #ajg1 #ajh1 #abg1 #ade1 #afi1 #aga ,st4 ,cross1 ,tower of ,ambulatory1 #afj ,st4 ,elizabeth's ,college1 #adj1 #ade ,st4 ,giles's ,fair1 #gi1 #ie1 #aag1 #aba ,st4 ,giles's ,hill1 #g1 #aj1 #aei1 #ahj ,st4 ,john's ,hospital1 #ade ,st4 ,josse1 #dd1 #abg ,st4 ,lawrence1 #afi ,st4 ,mary's ,abbey 7,nunna ,mynstre71 #da1 #ed1 #aji1 #aah ,st4 ,peter's1 ,cheesehill1 #eg ,st4 ,swithun's ,church1 #aad ,st4 ,swithun's ,monastery1 #bd1 #cb1 #ea1 #ia1 #ih1 #aaj1 #aac1 #aae1 #aah1 #acj1 #acc1 #add ,sarum1 #aj ,saxon ,winchester1 #bj ,scowertenestret1 #id1 #ig ,seculars1 #eb ,senlac1 #gb ,seventh ,chamber1 #afd ,shawford ,mill1 #af ,sherlock ,holmes1 #aic ,silchester1 #aj1 #ah1 #bj ,sildwortenstret1 #ic1 #id ,silence of ,dean ,maitland1 #aic ,siward 7,earl71 #ff ,slype1 the1 #ade ,snidelingestret1 #id ,soke1 ,liberty of1 #aai ,southampton1 #ae ,southgate1 #abc ,staple towns1 #abj ,stephen1 #f1 #ajj ,stigand 7,bishop71 #gf1 #add ,stret bidel1 #ie ,sustern ,spital1 #adj1 #afc ,swithun1 ,bishop1 #bi1 #cb1 #ed1 #abg1 #adg1 #aec1 #aed ,tannerestret1 #id ,tess of the ,d',urbervilles1 #aic ,thackeray1 #aij ,trollope1 ,anthony1 #aib ,tron1 #abj1 #ahj ,trusty servant1 #afd ,twyford1 #aib ,venta1 #be ,venta ,belgarum1 #ad1 #ae ,vespasian1 #ae ,victoria1 ,queen1 #aec1 #agc ,vikings1 #bh ,vintan-ceastir1 #be1 #ahb ,walcote1 #aia ,walkelyn 7,bishop71 #gg1 #adg1 #aed ,waltheof 7,earl71 #hc ,walton1 ,izaak1 #aec1 #aed1 #agj1 #ahd ,wantage1 #ce ,warton1 ,doctor1 #aed ,wayneflete 7,bishop71 #aea ,weald ,forest1 #ab ,weirs1 ,the1 #be ,wenegerestret1 #id ,wessex 7capital of71 #bj1 #aec ,westgate1 #id1 #abc1 #age1 #agg ,westminster ,abbey1 #adg ,white ,ship1 #ij1 #ih1 #aja ,whiting1 ,william1 #aib ,wilberforce1 ,samuel 7,bishop71 #aed ,william of ,malmesbury1 #ahc ,william ,i41 #e1 #ga1 #gd1 #hg1 #agb ,william ,,ii4 7,rufus71 #e1 #fe1 #gi1 #hg1 #hh1 #ajh ,william of ,wykeham1 #f1 #ajg1 #aci1 #adg1 #adh1 #aea1 #aeh ,winchester ,domesday1 #ib ,winchester1 ,alfred's death and after1 #dc ,arthurian legend1 #bj ,bishop thelwold1 #di ,capital of ,danish ,empire1 #ei ,capital of ,england1 #bf ,cathedral1 #bc1 #bi1 #ajj1 #adf1 #ahf1 #ahi ,civil ,war in1 #ajd ,conversion of ,kynegils1 #bc ,dean and ,chapter1 #add ,early days1 #aj ,fourteenth and ,fifteenth ,centuries1 #aag ,in ,literature1 #aga ,later ,norman1 #hg ,massacre at1 #fa ,monastic life1 #acj ,norman1 #gc ,winchester1 ,norman castle1 #hf ,plague in1 #age ,roman city1 #af ,roman occupation1 #ae ,saxon1 #bj ,that ,joly ,cit1 #a ,westgate1 #dj ,winton ,survey1 #ib ,wolvesey1 #afh ,winchester from ,st4 ,giles's ,hill1 #ahd ,winchester ,college ,brewhouse1 #aba ,cloisters and ,fromond's ,chantry1 #acg ,memorial ,gateway1 #add ,middle ,gate1 #abh ,second ,master's ,house1 #aec ,tower of the ,chapel1 ,frontispiece ,wintonia1 ,annales de1 #gg1 #ahc ,wolsey1 #adb1 #aec1 #afh ,wolvesey1 #h1 #ci1 #ei1 #he1 #ih1 #ajj1 #ajb1 #ajd1 #aah1 #abf1 #agj ,wool trade1 #abj1 #ahj ,wren1 ,sir ,christopher1 #agh1 #ahj ,wrothesley1 ,thomas1 #adb ,wulfstan 7,precentor71 #ec1 #ee1 #gg1 #aah ,wye1 ,faire1 #abe ,wykehamica1 ,adams's1 #afg ,yonge1 ,charlotte1 #aib ,,the ,,end ,printed by ,r4 ,r4 ,,clark1 ,,limited1 ,edinburgh4 ,,by ,,the ,,same ,,author ,,and ,,artist ,,as ,,winchester4 ,,hampshire ,,painted ,,by ,,wilfrid ,,ball1 ,r4,e4 ,,described ,,by ,,rev4 ,,telford ,,varley1 ,m4,a41 ,b4,,sc4 ,,containing #ge ,,full-,,page ,,illustrations ,,in ,,colour ,square ,demy #hvo4 ,cloth4 ,gilt ,top4 ,,price #bj_/- ,,net4 7,by ,post1 price #bjs4 #f;d47 ,,some ,,press ,,opinions 8,mr4 ,ball's pictures are delightfully fresh1 and recall many pleasant scenes to the reader who knows the county40--,manchester ,guardian4 8,hampshire is essentially a book to keep on a handy shelf in the bookcase1 where it can be easily taken down and read with never-failing delight and pleasure40--,queen4 8,the ,rev4 ,telford ,varley describes vividly and with great charm the many beauties of this county1 while ,mr4 ,wilfrid ,ball's pictures are exquisitely beautiful40--,the ,tatler4 8,mr4 ,varley's ,hampshire is a delightful book1 entertaining1 instructive1 and reliable2 and withal it is delightfully and copiously illustrated40--,bournemouth ,visitors' ,directory4 ,,other ,,counties ,,in ,,the ,,same ,,series ,square ,demy #hvo4 ,cloth4 ,gilt ,top4 ,,essex ,painted by ,l4 ,,burleigh ,,bruhl1 ,r4,b4,a4 ,described by ,a4 ,r4 ,,hope ,,moncrieff4 ,containing #ge ,full-page ,illustrations in ,colour and a ,sketch-,map4 ,,price #bj_/- ,,net 7,by ,post1 price #bj_/f7 8,nothing more delightful could be imagined in the way of illustrated topographical literature than ,essex40--,illustrated ,london ,news4 8,altogether it is an admirable book40--,globe4 ,,kent ,painted by ,w4 ,,biscombe ,,gardner4 ,described by ,w4 ,,teignmouth ,,shore4 ,containing #gc ,full-page ,illustrations in ,colour and a ,sketch-,map4 ,,price #bj_/- ,,net 7,by ,post1 price #bj_/f7 8,the acme of the reproductive art is reached in the colour facsimiles of the artist's sketches of the famous cathedrals and castles1 the antique houses and quaint villages1 the parks1 rivers1 and coasts of the ,garden of ,england4444 ,the letterpress1 too1 has a distinctive charm4 ,the author's style is clear and limpid1 and he handles his facts with so much of the master craftsman that his story never ceases to pulse with human interest40--,chatham ,observer4 ,,middlesex ,painted by ,,john ,,fulleylove1 ,r4,i4 ,described by ,a4 ,r4 ,,hope ,,moncrieff4 ,containing #bj ,full-page ,illustrations in ,colour and a ,sketch-,map4 ,,price #g_/f ,,net 7,by ,post1 price #g_/aa7 8,an admirable book1 brightly written and finely illustrated40--,standard4 8,mr4 ,fulleylove's score of pictures are beautiful1 and1 combined with ,mr4 ,moncrieff's descriptions1 should make many readers of this volume determine to see for themselves the neglected beauties of the nearest of the ,home ,counties40--,daily ,telegraph4 ,,published ,,by ,a4 ,,and ,c4 ,,black4 ,,soho ,,square4 ,,london4 ,w4 ,,surrey ,painted by ,,sutton ,,palmer4 ,described by ,a4 ,r4 ,,hope ,,moncrieff4 ,containing #ge ,full-page ,illustrations in ,colour and a ,sketch-,map4 ,,price #bj_/- ,,net 7,by ,post1 price #bj_/f7 8,of ,mr4 ,palmer's pictures it would seem difficult to speak in praise too high2 he has chosen his views so admirably and rendered them so beautifully that we find ourselves wishing there were even more of them4444 ,these pictures1 too1 are reproduced in colours so daintily and so well that we cannot recall a #8colour-book' which has given us greater satisfaction40--,daily ,telegraph4 ,,sussex ,painted by ,,wilfrid ,,ball1 ,r4,e4 ,containing #ge ,full-page ,illustrations in ,colour and a ,sketch-,map4 ,,price #bj_/- ,,net 7,by ,post1 price #bj_/f7 8,as a literary and artistic work the book is delightful40--,liverpool ,courier4 8,the whole charm of the county comes into view in ,mr4 ,wilfrid ,ball's artistic pictures1 and in the text of the book which they adorn40--,standard4 8,the text1 by an anonymous writer1 is worthy of the pictures1 and both are first-rate40--,daily ,news4 ,,warwickshire ,painted by ,,fred ,,whitehead1 ,r4,b4,a4 ,described by ,,clive ,,holland4 ,containing #ge ,full-page ,illustrations in ,colour4 ,,price #bj_/- ,,net 7,by ,post1 price #bj_/f7 8,shakespeare's county has never1 to our mind1 been more worthily presented1 and the book is one which it is a pleasure to possess40--,guardian4 8,it remains to commend ,mr4 ,whitehead's water-colours4 ,they are as clever as they are effective4 ,the pictures range over a great variety of subjects2 they give us a little of everything that is most exquisitely characteristic of ,warwickshire4 ,there is not one that does not take the eye with pleasure40--,daily ,chronicle4 ,,wessex ,painted by ,,walter ,,tyndale4 ,described by ,,clive ,,holland4 ,containing #ge ,full-page ,illustrations in ,colour and a ,sketch-,map4 ,,price #bj_/- ,,net 7,by ,post1 price #bj_/f7 8,the author and painter have given a delightful translation1 so to speak1 of ,thomas ,hardy's imaginative dealings with places and people4 ,church and castle1 sea and river1 town and village1 peaceful farms and wild moorland1 are all identified and described1 both by words and pictures1 with unfailing charm40--,evening ,standard4 ,,worcestershire ,painted by ,,thomas ,,tyndale4 ,described by ,a4 ,g4 ,,bradley4 ,containing #bd ,full-page ,illustrations in ,colour and a ,sketch-,map4 ,,price #g_/f ,,net 7,by ,post1 price #g_/aa7 8,the illustrations are beautifully done1 and the text accurate and very readable40--,oxford ,magazine4 8,mr4 ,tyndale's two dozen beautiful sketches will be found delightful to those who know ,worcestershire1 while they ought to tempt those who do not1 to visit it on the earliest opportunity40--,daily ,telegraph4 ,,yorkshire ,painted and ,described by ,,gordon ,,home4 ,containing #gj ,full-,page ,illustrations in ,colour and a ,sketch-,map4 ,,price #bj_/- ,,net 7,by ,post1 price #bj_/f7 8,a volume of great and varied interest4 ,famous houses and ruins1 great churches1 moorland and sea-coast--the many things that put ,yorkshire so high among ,english shires--are to be found here4 ,it is a most attractive volume40--,spectator4 ,,published ,,by ,a4 ,,and ,c4 ,,black ,,soho ,,square ,,london ,w4 ,,footnotes3 #a ,or ,hantachevesle 7the spelling is obscure74 #b ,knighton's ,de eventibus ,angliae4 #c ,memoir of ,jane ,austen1 by ,austen ,leigh1 pp4 #afc and #afd1 inserted here by kind permission of ,messrs4 ,macmillan and ,co4 #d ,this and the following extracts are inserted here by kind permission of ,messrs4 ,macmillan and ,co4 #e ,letter to ,george and ,georgina ,keats1 ,september #ba4 ,from ,letters of ,john ,keats3 ,sidney ,colvin3 p4 #caj4 #f ,letter to ,g4 and ,g4 ,keats1 ,september #bj4 #g ,inserted by kind permission of ,messrs4 ,macmillan and ,co4