,transcriber ,note ,text emphasis denoted as ,italics and ,bold44 ,illustration3 ,mrs4 ,lizzie ,e4 ,cotton ,,bee ,,keeping ,,for ,,profit ,a ,,new ,,system ,,of ,bee ,management1 ,,first ,,edition4 ,,by ,mrs4 ,lizzie ,e4 ,cotton1 ,,west ,,gorham1 ,,maine4 ,,illustrated4 #ahhj4 ,entered according to ,act of ,congress1 in the year #ahhj1 by ,,mrs4 ,,lizzie4 ,e4 ,,cotton1 in the ,office of the ,librarian of ,congress1 at ,washington4 ,,contents4 ,chapter4 ,page ,i4--,honey ,bees #ac ,,ii4--,the ,controllable ,hive and ,new ,system of ,bee ,management #bb ,,iii4--,patent and non-,patent ,hives #bi ,,iv4--,feeding #cb ,v4--,boxes for ,surplus ,honey #dj ,,vi4--,swarming and ,hiving #de ,,vii4--,anger of ,bees #ee ,,viii4--,bee ,moth #ei ,,ix4--,robbing #fb ,x4--,profits of ,bee ,keeping #ff ,,xi4--,changing ,old ,queens for ,young ,ones #gd ,,xii4--,rearing and ,introducing ,queens #gg ,,xiii4--,sources of ,honey #hd ,,xiv4--,location of ,hives #hi ,,xv4--,wintering ,bees #ib ,,xvi4--,transferring ,bees #ih ,,xvii4--,italian ,bees #ajc ,,xviii4--,construction of ,controllable ,hives #ajg ,,xix4--,monthly ,duties #aac ,,xx4--,conclusion #abj ,,preface4 ,in presenting this work ,i have no apology to make4 ,after an experience with bees dating almost from childhood1 and a careful study of all works published on the subject of bees1 and the journals devoted to that particular branch of rural affairs1 ,i find theory1 guess-work1 prejudice and selfish motives are so prevalent1 as to confuse and discourage the beginner1 and finally1 all who are seeking after information by which they may make bee keeping a source of profit1 and who wish to adopt a correct and scientific system of bee management4 ,in my early efforts at bee keeping1 ,i met with many failures and heavy losses1 from being confused by the contradictory teachings of selfish or ignorant bee keepers1 and from a lack of that personal knowledge which experience1 and a close study of the nature and habits of bees has now placed in my possession4 ,after many unsuccessful experiments1 and careful investigation1 and a close study of the natural habits and instincts of bees1 ,i have succeeded in inventing a hive and new system of bee management which completely changes the whole process of bee keeping1 and renders the business safe1 pleasant and profitable4 ,the hive and system of bee management recommended in these pages is entirely original with me1 and is not patented4 ,i invented the hive and plan of management for my own use1 as ,i am engaged in raising honey for market1 and wish every swarm of bees ,i keep to produce the greatest possible amount of surplus honey1 and in the most convenient and attractive marketable form4 ,i am induced to place this work before the public at the earnest and oft repeated requests of friends and correspondents4 ,the work has been hurriedly written1 as ,i had but little spare time to devote to this matter1 consequently sentences are not all1 perhaps1 grammatically arranged4 ,i have made the beautiful of secondary importance to the useful4 ,i have endeavored1 however1 to make my statements so clear as to be readily understood and comprehended by every person of intelligence1 although he may be wholly unacquainted with bee keeping4 ,every person1 who has a farm or garden1 should keep bees1 at least one or more swarms1 to furnish honey for the use of the family4 ,there is no greater luxury than nice honey in clean snow-white comb in nice glass boxes1 such as is produced by my new system of bee management4 ,this best of all sweets is now within reach of every one who has a plot of ground large enough to set a hive of bees upon4 ,after bees are once located in my hives but very little expense is required to keep them in proper condition1 so that they will give a good quantity of nice box honey every year4 ,under the old methods of bee keeping1 bees required a great deal of care and attention1 especially during the summer season4 ,and then the winters were very destructive to them1 many often losing their entire stock2 or if they were not a total loss1 they were so damaged by the winter as to be of no profit1 and two severe winters in succession were quite sure to finish them4 ,this was very discouraging1 and many have abandoned bee keeping1 entirely discouraged4 ,on my plan a complete revolution is effected in bee management1 as will be shown in this work4 ,there is in my opinion no pursuit which offers greater inducements than bee keeping1 especially to women4 ,there are very many who are confined indoors nearly the whole time1 excluded from the air and sunshine1 to the great injury of their health2 and after this great sacrifice they barely succeed in obtaining a livelihood4 ,to such1 bee keeping offers great inducements1 such as improved health1 and a handsome recompense for all labor performed4 ,i am acquainted with many who have commenced bee keeping on my plan1 who are meeting with complete success4 ,a lady bought a swarm of ,italian bees of me in #ahgd1 and she writes me that from that one she increased her stock to over twenty swarms the third season2 besides she got over one hundred pounds of nice honey from the swarm ,i sent her the first season4 ,here ,i wish to be clearly understood2 ,i do not wish to hold out inducements which will never be realized1 for the purpose of causing any one to commence bee-keeping2 yet ,i believe bee keeping on correct principles should be encouraged1 until bees enough are kept to collect all the honey now allowed to go to waste1 and which if collected by bees and stored in nice glass boxes1 would add millions of dollars to the wealth of the country4 ,since the day ,i introduced my ,controllable ,hive and new system of bee management to the notice of the public1 the worthless bee hive swindlers and their tools have been boiling over with wrath against me1 lying and slandering me through the public journals1 and especially through the ,bee ,journals1 and all because1 that ,i1 a woman1 had succeeded in inventing a bee hive and new system of bee management superior to anything yet produced1 and which was fast coming into use on its merits among bee keepers2 consequently the sale of other hives was decreasing in the same proportion4 ,i first perfected the hive and system of management for my own use1 with no thought of making it public1 but through the kindness of my personal friends1 and others who have visited me to enquire into the new system1 it has become known from ,maine to ,oregon1 and adopted by many of the most intelligent bee keepers in the ,united ,states4 ,and in compliance with that command in the good book which reads--,let your light shine1 ,i am determined to spread the truth1 regardless of all opposition from the ignorant and selfish crowd which is constantly attacking me4 ,without egotism ,i claim a thorough knowledge of the habits and instincts of bees4 ,consequently ,i claim a thorough knowledge of the requisites of a hive1 and all fixtures pertaining to it1 as well as a knowledge required to make bee keeping successful and profitable2 and all this has been acquired in the school of experience and practice4 ,kind reader1 ,i respectfully submit the following pages1 and ask for them a candid and unprejudiced consideration4 ,read carefully and understandingly1 and apply to bee keeping1 and ,i feel certain you will realize many times the cost of this book in the increased profits of your bees1 managed as here directed4 ,the statements herein set forth are the result of many years practical experience with bees with a view of making the raising of honey for market profitable1 and the general management of bees successful4 ,,mrs4 ,,lizzie ,e4 ,,cotton4 ,west ,gorham1 ,maine1 ,aug4 #eth1 #ahhj4 ,,chapter ,i4 ,,honey ,,bees4 ,illustration3 ,,queen ,,bee4 ,a ,,swarm of bees contains one ,queen1 thousands of workers and in the summer season a limited number of drones4 ,the queen is the only fully developed female in the swarm4 ,she never leaves the hive except on two occasions--when leading a swarm1 and when but a few days old1 to meet the drone1 or male bee1 in the air1 for the purpose of fecundation4 ,it appears from close observation that only one impregnation is operative during life1 as old queens have never been known to leave the hive for that purpose4 ,the natural life of the queen averages from four to six years4 ,queens sometimes become entirely barren before death2 at other times the eggs of old queens are found to produce only drones4 ,no matter whether deposited in drone cells1 or worker cells1 the progeny will be drones invariably4 ,when drones are reared in worker cells they will be very much dwarfed in size1 notwithstanding the worker bees' attempt to overcome the difficulty1 by lengthening the worker cells1 to accommodate the monstrosities4 ,the queen has a sting1 yet she may be handled with impunity1 for she will not use it except when in deadly combat with a rival queen4 ,she receives the most marked attention from all members of her family2 deprive a swarm of their queen1 and they will1 as soon as the loss is known1 manifest the greatest agitation and alarm1 and if the swarm is one just hived1 and only a few hours from the parent stock1 they will all return at once to the old home4 ,they appear to fully realize the vast importance of a mother1 and that with no means to supply her place they must soon perish2 and to avoid their impending fate they return to the old hive4 ,with old stocks deprived of their queen the result is different1 as will be shown further on4 ,every one who keeps bees should strive to become familiar with the appearance of the queen1 that they may be able to recognize her at a glance among thousands of workers1 as it will often be necessary to look her up in my new system of bee management4 ,in looking for the queen in full hives1 she is usually found on the brood combs1 unless in opening the hive she may have been frightened1 and taken refuge in some hiding place1 as the corner of the hive1 at the bottom ends of the comb-frames1 or some similar hiding place4 ,after we become familiar with her appearance and movements we are able to find her quite readily1 even when the hive is crowded with bees4 ,illustration3 ,,worker ,,bee4 ,the worker bee is much smaller than the queen4 ,on the worker devolves all the labor of the swarm4 ,they collect honey1 pollen or bee bread1 and propolis1 or bee glue4 ,the workers produce wax from honey1 and from the wax they build comb1 in which to store the honey and bee bread they collect1 for their own use in time of need4 ,wax is produced from honey1 as butter is produced from milk4 ,bees do not collect wax1 but they collect honey1 which by a natural process in the stomach of the bee is changed1 and exudes from between the rings of the abdomen in minute scales of wax1 which is detached by the bee and moulded into comb4 ,the worker bee possesses a sting1 and is ever ready to make use of it in defending home and treasure4 ,this is a wise provision of nature1 for were it otherwise1 the other insect and animal tribes would appropriate the treasures of the bee--honey1 wax1 c41 and this industrious little insect would soon become extinct4 ,the worker bee possesses an instinct but little inferior to reason in the human family4 ,a few examples will show their wonderful instinct3 ,twenty hives of bees1 placed in a row1 but a few inches distant one from the other1 all of like size1 shape and color2 the bees to our perception exactly alike1 no difference in size1 shape1 color or action2--yet every bee of this vast number 7which at some seasons of the year would amount to more than six hundred thousand bees7 in these twenty hives knows its own hive1 and if let alone will not enter any other1 except it be for the purpose of securing the honey therein for its own use1 or in other words to plunder and rob its neighbor4 ,there is no intercourse between swarms--each is a separate colony governed by a queen4 ,if through mistake the subjects of one enter the domain of another1 a war of extermination is commenced at once4 ,to test this point1 ,i changed two hives so that they were reversed1 the one occupying the place of the other4 ,this was done while the bees were out collecting honey in a warm day4 ,the first bees that entered the hive were instantly killed1 and this was kept up until the hives were set in their proper places4 ,the ground in front of the hives was covered with hundreds of dead bees4 ,a bee is killed almost instantly by the sting of another4 ,the young bee on its first excursion from the hive does not leave its home without precaution4 ,with a view to a safe return1 it turns its head towards its home1 rises slowly on the wing1 at first describing a circle of only a few inches in diameter1 as it recedes slowly backward1 seeming to so mark every object surrounding the hive as to enable it to return and enter1 without the slightest danger of entering any other hive4 ,bees in ,spring1 in their first flight1 mark their location in this manner4 ,after the location has been thus marked1 the bees leave the hive in a direct line1 and return by their way-marks1 with perfect accuracy and regularity4 ,illustration3 ,,drone ,,bee4 ,the drone bee is a clumsy fellow4 ,the drones are the male bees4 ,where a dozen or more hives are kept1 there is no necessity for more drones than one swarm would naturally rear1 yet each one of the twelve swarms carries out its natural proclivities1 and rears a large number of these useless consumers1 not one in a thousand of which is ever of any use4 ,swarms should not be permitted to rear a large number of these non producers4 ,a few are indispensable1 yet we should take this matter into our own hands4 ,not one drone in five thousand ever fulfils the purpose for which it was created4 ,fifty drone cells is enough for one hive1 and when more than this number is constructed 7sometimes they will number a thousand or more in a hive7 cut out all but a very few1 and fit in a piece of worker comb in their place--it is more profit to raise workers than drones4 ,drones leave the hive1 to sport in the sunshine in large numbers1 every fine afternoon in ,june and ,july4 ,when on the wing they make a very loud1 coarse buzzing4 ,they have no sting and may be handled without the least fear4 ,when the honey season is over1 the worker bees drive out the drones1 and a prosperous swarm will not tolerate a drone in the hive through the winter4 ,in ,september ,i have seen a quart or more of drones clustered together near the entrance of the hive1 from whence they had been driven by the bees4 ,the workers on guard about the entrance of the hive1 would not let one pass into the hive1 though they were constantly making the attempt4 ,as soon as one would approach the entrance to the hive to pass in1 a half dozen or more workers would seize him1 and drag him struggling to the edge of the platform and pitch him off1 at apparent great danger to his portly and clumsy body4 ,i wish to impress strongly on the minds of all who adopt my plan of bee management1 the great importance of cutting out all the drone cells1 except a very few in every hive4 ,don't leave more than fifty1 half that number will do4 ,after you have once cut out the surplus drone comb and fitted in worker comb1 there is no further trouble with an excess of drones from that hive4 ,it takes a great deal of honey to rear a large brood of drones1 and still more to support them in idleness two or three months4 ,illustration3 ,,honey ,,cell--,,worker ,,cells--,,queen ,,cells ,this engraving represents a section of comb in a miniature comb frame1 containing all the different cells found in a hive4 ,at the top are cells for storing honey4 ,at the extreme right1 near the bottom1 is a queen cell complete1 as it appears in queen raising1 or in one week after a swarm has been deprived of its queen1 in a full stock1 or as it is found in stocks that swarm naturally1 at the time the first swarm issues4 ,though often found in different places on the comb1 and often to the number of a half dozen or more in one stock or hive1 yet its relative position is always the same4 ,it will always present the same appearance1 whether at the edges or on other parts of the comb4 ,near the queen cell is seen the worker cells1 containing brood in all stages of growth1 from the tiny egg just deposited by the queen1 to the full-grown grub1 or young bee4 ,near the worker cells1 at the bottom1 are the empty drone cells4 ,breeding4 ,the natural increase of the honey bee is very imperfectly understood by the great majority of bee keepers4 ,very many suppose that young bees are raised only in the warm summer months1 and their ideas of the modus operandi of increase are exceedingly vague4 ,i find that strung stocks have maturing brood nearly every month in the year--have found brood in stocks in ,december and ,january4 ,the queen lays all the fertile eggs in the swarm2 consequently all increase is dependent on her4 ,i say the queen lays all the fertile eggs1 because occasionally under certain circumstances we find eggs laid by workers1 but under my observation such eggs never mature4 ,egg-laying workers are known to be such1 by eggs being found in stocks that have been deprived of their queen1 and the means of rearing another4 ,this is one of the wonders of nature1 of which no satisfactory solution has been given4 ,the points established as to the sex of bees are these3 the queen is a fully developed female2 the drones are fully developed males2 the worker1--what is it8 ,the worker is said by some to be neuter4 ,if this last is true1 how are the eggs produced8 ,others say the worker is a female with generative organs not fully developed6 ,a pretty nice point--to credit them with the power to produce eggs1 without imparting vitality sufficient to germinate4 ,we will leave this knotty question1 as it is of no consequence in the practical management of bees for profit4 ,suffice it then to say1 the queen is the mother of the entire family1 and without a queen no swarm of bees can long ,the time taken to perfect the three different kinds of bees1 queen1 worker and drone1 varies slightly4 ,the queen will mature in about sixteen days from the time the egg is deposited in the cell4 ,the drone and worker each in about twenty days4 ,this time is subject to some variation1 governed by the weather1 and number of bees in the hive1 which causes the temperature of the hive to be greater or less4 ,a high temperature will forward1 while a low temperature will retard1 the maturing of the brood4 ,swarms with healthy prolific queens increase rapidly through the spring and summer4 ,the queen at this season will deposit from one thousand to fifteen hundred eggs per day4 ,some writers estimate higher4 ,to secure so large a number of eggs1 and consequent increase of bees1 we must have healthy prolific queens to start with1 and offer every available facility to encourage the desired increase4 ,how to do this successfully is shown further on4 ,if we wish to secure a good harvest of honey1 we must have the bees to collect it1 and we must have them at the proper time1 viz3 when the harvest is ready4 ,to do this we must encourage breeding to the utmost in early spring4 ,early in the spring the queen enlarges the circle containing the brood2 perhaps1 if the stock was very strong1 and everything favorable1 she laid a few eggs in one or two combs near the center of the cluster of bees in ,january4 ,perhaps the cells occupied at that time were less than a dozen1 all compact together in a circle1 occupying less space than the size of a silver half dollar4 ,as she progresses1 this circle is enlarged1 and the cells on the opposite side of this comb is used2 then the next comb and so on1 at the same time enlarging the circle1 keeping the brood compactly together1 so that the bees1 by clustering around it1 can keep up the required warmth to forward to maturity the brood4 ,as the young bees hatch1 the queen proceeds with her duties of laying eggs1 until every brood cell is occupied1 and as fast as a bee matures and leaves its cell1 she is on hand with an egg to occupy the vacant place4 ,this is kept up without cessation till swarming time1 when the hive becomes crowded with bees1 then1 as preparation for swarming1 the queen deposits eggs1 from which the bees by a special course of treatment1 rear queens4 ,when they are sealed over1 as shown in the plate1 the old queen leaves the hive with the first swarm to seek a new home4 ,in about ten days the young queens hatch and lead out after-swarms--second1 third1 etc4 ,when swarming is over1 the strongest queen destroys the others1 and reigns over the old swarm till another swarming season4 ,this is the process in natural swarming2 on my plan we improve upon the process1 as will be shown in the proper place4 ,illustration ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,,the ,,controllable ,,bee ,,hive ,,and ,,new ,,system ,,of ,,bee ,,management4 ,,it is now nearly ten years since ,i perfected the ,controllable ,bee ,hive and ,new ,system of ,bee ,management4 ,i commenced bee keeping with the common box hive1 with no knowledge whatever1 of the habits of bees4 ,i was not long in learning that ,i could not make bee keeping a success with the box hive1 and ,i also found that the thousand and one patent hives were no better1 and the great majority of such hives1 inferior to the simple box hive4 ,i found there was no practical method of controlling the swarming propensities of bees4 ,all such hives would swarm or not1 as seemed to suit the caprice of the bees1 which ,i found very perplexing4 ,stocks under the old plan of management1 sometimes show every indication of swarming1 such 'as clustering out1 etc41 yet they adhere pertinaciously to the old stock through the entire summer1 a peck or more of them clustering idly on the outside of the hive1 through the season2 and if one put on boxes1 it is all the same1 they will do nothing4 ,and such swarms often starve early the next winter1 after passing the summer in idleness4 ,other stocks with apparently not so many bees will swarm several times2 often swarm so much as to reduce the number of bees so low that the bee moth will effect its destruction during the summer2 there not being bees enough to protect the combs from the attacks of this destructive little insect4 ,this swarming problem ,i found very difficult to solve4 ,there were so many conflicting theories1 ,i found ,i could gain no positive1 reliable information from any source1 to aid me1 and that ,i must solve the problem by practical experiment4 ,experience is a good teacher1 but often a very costly one4 ,some told me if ,i wished to prevent swarming1 ,i must cut out the queen cells1 which the bees constructed preparatory to swarming4 ,this was simply impossible1 with the box hive1 sol constructed a hive with movable frames1 so the bees1 could build their combs in the frames1 and each comb of the hive could be lifted out separately4 ,but when ,i attempted to prevent swarming by cutting out the queen cells1 ,i found if ,t was to thwart nature in that way1 ,i had1 to say the least1 a big job on my hands4 ,i could cut out the queen cells1 but within twenty-four hours after ,i had done this1 the bees would have others constructed1 and be ready to swarm1 and as ,i kept cutting1 they would keep building4 ,they had the advantage of numbers and position1 and when ,i opened the hive every day and destroyed such1 to them1 important work1 they were not long in declaring and proclaiming me to be an enemy to them1 and they would attack me whenever occasion offered4 ,i soon found that if not impossible it was certainly impracticable to prevent bees swarming by cutting out the queen cells4 ,it was a surprise to me that this plan should be recommended by bee keepers claiming to be well skilled in bee management4 ,after proving this plan of no value1 ,i was told if ,i would contract the entrance to my hives so the queen could not pass1 ,i could thereby successfully prevent swarming1 as the swarm would not leave without the queen4 ,this looked to me like a very nice operation1 to say the least1 in fact1 more nice than wise4 ,however1 ,i determined to test the plan4 ,i accordingly contracted the entrance to my hives1 and lo6 the drones being larger than the queen they could not pass6 so they clustered about the entrance1 and in their efforts to get out1 completely blocked up the passage1 so the workers could not pass4 ,yet this plan of contracting the entrance was claimed to be protected by letters patent of the ,u4 ,s4 ,i found this plan for preventing swarming of no value whatever4 ,very many other plans were tendered me and tested with like results4 ,i was all this time pushing my experiments1 and learning something from experience every day4 ,i was determined to arrange and construct a hive which would render bee keeping successful and profitable1 and ,i can say at the present time1 my labors have been rewarded with success4 ,i ought to go on and write out a description of all the old methods of bee keeping1 and all the patent bee hive humbugs1 with the thousand and one non-patent hives and fixtures1 got up expressly to swindle bee keepers out of their hard earnings1 by a class of rascals1 many of whom never owned a swarm of bees1 and who care not one cent whether bee keeping is a success or otherwise1 if they can pocket a round sum by their fraud4 ,were ,i to write out minutely these points1 this work would become too voluminous and extended2 besides it would be of no practical value to the bee keeper1 who wishes to keep bees for profit4 ,i will not1 therefore1 give such minute descriptions of all the old systems1 hives1 etc41 but will confine myself more closely to such practical information as will be of value to the bee keeper4 ,swarming ,controlled4 ,how to control swarming is truly an important question4 ,i believe that the successful controlling of swarming is the key to success and profit in bee keeping4 ,now how shall we do it8 ,i will tell you4 ,but first a few preliminary words4 ,if swarms are desired1 we arrange in early spring to have them issue in the swarming season1 and at such a time as will best suit our convenience4 ,when no swarms are wanted1 we turn the whole force of bees to storing surplus honey in small glass boxes1 throughout the entire season1 and have no swarms1 yet have the same increase of bees that would be gained if they swarmed4 ,then all the bees work at storing honey in boxes1 instead of swarming out2 and to any one who has not tested the matter it is surprising to see the amount of honey which a swarm of bees will store when not allowed to swarm1 and fed judiciously1 ample box room being provided of easy access1 so that all the bees have room to work1 and by this plan we are not constantly watching and waiting for swarms with uncertainty throughout the entire summer1 for we know with certainty when and where to look for swarms4 ,in my plan1 the swarming properties of bees are effectively controlled1 without frequently disturbing or overhauling them1 but by observing rules strictly in accordance with the habits and instincts of bees4#a ,footnote #a3 ,here let me be clearly understood4 ,i admit that bees will sometimes swarm1 with abundant room for work in their boxes4 ,yet ,i claim that on my plan all increase by swarming may be prevented without great trouble or perplexity1 such as has heretofore attended all attempts to bring about this greatly to be desired object4 ,if a person commences bee keeping1 with a certain number of swarms in controllable hives1 and in early spring gives the bees access to the hive boxes1 and later1 after they commence work in them1 gives the bees access to the top boxes1 giving them otherwise ordinary care1 7except to feed if desired17 but a small proportion will swarm on the average yearly4 ,much the larger portion will work in the boxes without swarming out1 and give a handsome yield of surplus box honey1 the yield of course being governed by the amount of feed given them1 and the yield from flowers1 etc4 ,but if increase of stocks is preferred1 rather than surplus box honey--if the bees are not given access to the boxes1 but confined in their labors to the brood section of the hive1 being fed as directed1 nearly every one will swarm1 and swarm early4 ,if you wish your bees in controllable hives to swarm keep the partition in place at the sides of the brood section1 and the honey board over the top2 or in other words1 keep the bees confined in their labors to the central or brood section of the hive4 ,now1 if you wish them to swarm in any particular week of the swarming season1 ten days before1 remove the old queen4 7,it is well to kill her1 and to do so1 take with her about a pint of bees1 and put them in a small miniature hive1 six or eight inches square1 with movable frames1 like those in the central part of the controllable hive4 ,keep them shut in1 twenty-four hours2 then give them their liberty1 and they will work the same as a large swarm through the summer2 but will not winter4 ,if such queens are known to be very old it is best to destroy them when we take them from the swarm4 ,keep only young1 vigorous queens47 ,the bees in the hive1 from which you have taken the queen1 will in nearly every instance1 construct queen cells immediately to replace the loss of their queen4 ,at the earliest possible moment1 they seem to sense fully their loss1 and to know that if they do not get another queen at once1 their loss is irreparable4 ,they usually will construct a number of cells1 perhaps a half dozen or more4 ,these will hatch in about ten days1 and then swarms will issue4#b ,footnote #b3 ,should any stock fail to swarm within two weeks from the time the queen is removed1 at the end of that time1 examine such stock1 and if they have no queen they must be furnished with one4 ,about one stock in twenty1 deprived of its queen as directed1 will fail to rear queens4 ,if you wish to devote but little time to your bees1 and are not particular as to the time of swarming1 and wish to have but very few swarms1 or perhaps none at all1 early in the spring1 as soon as bees commence their work1 put on the boxes 7sides and top17 and give the bees access to them2 side boxes first1 top boxes later4 ,by this course1 but a very small proportion of your stocks will swarm1 7if this plan is to be practiced each year1 it will be necessary to replace the old queens with young ones every three or four years4 ,if this is not done1 queens will die1 or become barren from old age1 and consequently loss of stocks follows4 ,keep this point in your mind3 young healthy1 prolific queens1 are essential to success17 as they will have ample room in the boxes for their labor4 ,occasionally a hive treated in this way will swarm1 and1 if you wish to have no increase of stocks whatever1 if a swarm comes out1 hive it in a light box1 and as soon as this is done1 go to the hive which they came from and smoke lightly2 if the bees are cross1 lift out the comb frames from the brood section with the bees adhering2 examine each and every comb carefully for queen cells1 and cut off all but one4 ,success here depends on care and thoroughness1 for if you leave more than one cell1 your bees may swarm out again in a day or two4 ,after this is done1 spread a sheet on the ground2 set a light box1 like the one in which you have the bees1 near one side2 raise the edge towards where you will shake the bees one inch or a little more1 to give the bees a chance to enter the box4 ,shake the bees from the hive1 by a quick1 jerking motion1 upon the sheet1 the most of them some two or three feet from the box4 ,with a large spoon or ladle1 put a few up near the box1 so they will enter1 and disturb the others gently with a quill or light brush4 ,when they commence to enter the box1 they will set up a loud and continual humming1 or call1 and the bees on the sheet1 if lightly disturbed with the quill or brush1 will spread out1 and march towards the hive1 while those on the wing will alight1 and join them in the march4 ,now look closely for the queen1 and capture her4 ,if she is not found before the bees get into the box1 shake them out again1 and go through the same process1 till you find her4 ,as soon as you have secured the queen1 the bees1 in a few minutes1 finding themselves destitute of a queen1 and not having the means of raising another to take her place1 will rise on the wing1 and return to the old stock from which they came1 and will not come out again1 but will work in the boxes throughout the season4 ,i will treat of this subject of swarming no further in this chapter4 ,the merits of the ,controllable ,hive and ,new ,system of ,bee ,management1 will be fully shown further on in this work1 and the most explicit instructions given for rearing bees with profit4 ,illustration ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,,patent ,,and ,,non-,,patent ,,hives1 ,,bee ,,journals1 ,,etc4 ,i ,,have learned from bitter experience1 as has nearly every one1 who has kept bees for any length of time1 the dishonesty1 and utter disregard for truth1 of a class of speculators who prey upon the unsuspecting bee-keeper4 ,patent hives--the great majority of them--are a curse and a hindrance to successful and profitable bee keeping4 ,i have no time to describe the multitude of worthless patent hives1 and the many tricks and swindles of the venders of the same1 but ,i advise every bee keeper to consult his own interests1 and have nothing to do with them4 ,ninety-nine out of every hundred are a swindle4 ,i have tested their merits and know whereof ,i affirm4 ,the ,more-patent hives against which ,i wish to caution the bee-keeper1 and particularly the beginner1 are those offered by ,a4 ,j4 ,root1 publisher of ,gleanings in ,bee ,culture4 ,root makes the ,gleanings the medium for advertising and palming off upon the public his wares4 ,don't invest in his trash if you wish to keep bees with profit4 ,i am sorry to find that many of the bee journals and bee-keepers' associations1 are conducted on prejudiced and selfish motives1 and in the interest of some individual1 or company of men1 for the sole purpose of making money from the sale of some particular hive or fixture1 without regard to merit1 or value to the practical bee-keeper4 ,all honest discussion1 with a view to bring out facts and figures to guide the inexperienced bee-keeper in his labors1 ,i am sorry to say1 is suppressed4 ,the bee journals should be the disseminators of useful knowledge among bee-keepers4 ,i am sorry to find the reverse true with many of them4 ,after a thorough investigation1 ,i feel it my duty to advise bee-keepers1 and those contemplating bee-keeping1 not to take all for granted that they read in the bee journals1 for if you do1 you will be very likely to soon find yourself robbed of your money1 and your bees ruined4 ,very many who write for the bee journals with high sounding words1 claiming to be adepts in bee culture1 have really no practical knowledge of the nature and habits of bees4 ,we have supported a host of speculators in our business1 for a long time2 the object of this class has ever been1 how best to secure our hard earnings1 and with no desire or effort to aid in rendering bee keeping more profitable and desirable4 ,the country is full of this class1 and they always combine to crush out real merit in anything pertaining to bee culture1 brought before the public by individual bee-keepers1 who are laboring to advance the cause by giving their experiences1 gained from hard every-day labor among bees4 ,for many years ,i have written articles on bee culture1 for the leading agricultural journals and newspaper4 ,i have thus given much of my experience in detail1 with no thought of further reward than the satisfaction of having contributed to aid bee-keepers in raising bees with greater profit1 believing if all would so contribute of their practical experience with bees1 great mutual benefit might be gained1 and rapid progress made in successful and profitable bee culture4 ,in consequence of my course in spreading information with a view to aid the cause1 the class referred to in this chapter1 and their tools1 are boiling over with wrath towards me1 lying and slandering me through the public press1 and by every other means which their depraved natures can invent4 ,all because ,i have succeeded by hard study in perfecting a hive and new system of bee management1 which is fast coming into general use among bee keepers2 consequently the sale of their worthless trash is decreasing rapidly4 ,but ,i am anxious to get through with this part of my work1 and reach the practical part1 where ,i have the greatest confidence in my ability to give such information as will render bee keeping profitable and desirable4 ,illustration ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,,feeding4 ,,feeding bees1 when judiciously managed1 is the stepping stone to large profits from them4 ,bee-keepers who have heretofore attempted to feed bees have met with poor success4 ,a bee-keeper of my acquaintance paid fifty dollars for a patent apparatus for feeding bees together in the open air4 ,the result was1 soon after being fed1 they commenced fighting among themselves4 ,the weaker stocks first fell prey to the stronger1 then the stronger in turn were attacked1 and the final result was1 nearly every stock was ruined1 and the plan abandoned in disgust after the first season's trial4 ,now it is plain to every intelligent person1 that in order to receive the greatest possible profit from bees1 they must be fed4 ,there can be no question as to the great benefit to be derived from feeding bees4 ,the only question is1 how1 when and what to feed4 ,it is as much a necessity to feed bees1 as to feed our domestic animals1 cows1 sheep1 c41 or to apply manure to plants1 or any crop the farmer cultivates1 to stimulate growth and increase the product1 and consequent profit of the same4 ,we should look upon that farmer as either a fool or a lunatic1 who should furnish his domestic animals no food1 except what they obtained by grazing in the pastures and fields1 the year round4 ,and do you think his cows treated thus1 would yield him a large product of butter1 cheese and milk1 and consequently a good profit in dollars and cents8 ,do you think he would find his cows1 managed thus1 so profitable as to induce him to keep cows to any great extent8 ,let a farmer manage thus--take his cows to the barn1 milk them1 then turn them out the year round to graze and provide for themselves1 taking them up only to milk them1 furnishing them with no food except what they procure by grazing--how long1 think you1 would such a farmer have cows to milk8 ,yet this is a parallel case with the bee-keeper who furnishes his bees with no feed except what they can procure by their own industry4 ,and is it surprising that bees treated thus pay no profit8 ,again1 the farmer who should year after year plant his corn1 potatoes1 etc41 apply no manure1 furnish no cultivation1 yet expect to succeed in farming1 harvest large crops1 and get a good yearly profit in dollars and cents1 and grumble because he did not1 and at last abandon the business1 asserting that there was no profit in farming1 furnishes another parallel case to the bee-keeper who lets his bees shift for themselves1 and then grumbles because they pay no profit1 and at last abandons the business1 asserting that there is no money in bee-keeping4 ,it being self evident that it is profitable to feed bees1 it now remains to show how to do it with the greatest possible profit4 ,receipt for ,feed4 ,to eight pounds of coffee crushed sugar1 add two quarts of soft water1 and whites of two eggs2 bring to the boiling point over a slow fire1 being very careful not to burn it4 ,skim off carefully all skum or sediment that rises1 so that the feed1 when cool1 will be perfectly clear and about the consistency of new honey4 ,illustration3 ,,feeder4 ,to construct the feeder1#c get a tin-worker to make you a tin dish1 with perpendicular sides1 nine inches square inside1 three inches deep1 without a bottom4 ,around the lower edge turn the tin out about one half inch all round1 for the dish to rest on when placed on the hive for feeding the bees4 ,around the top of this dish put a stout wire to keep it in shape ,get another tin dish made #h by #h inches square inside1 two and one-half inches deep1 with a bottom4 ,place the smaller dish inside the larger one1 the bottom of the inner dish even and level with the lower edge of the outer dish1 which brings the top of the under dish one-half inch lower than the upper edge of the outer dish2 then when the outer dish is covered1 7as it will be in feeding17 there will be a halt inch space between the cover over the outer dish1 and the top of the inner dish4 ,footnote #c3 ,with the aid of the engraving1 there can be no mistake in constructing the feeder1 particularly as its position on the hive is shown under head of ,construction of ,controllable ,hive1 ,chapter ,,xviii4 ,place one of the shorter sides of the inner dish against the inside of the outer dish1 in such a position that there will be a half inch space all round between the outer and inner dish1 except at the side where you fasten them together2 across this one side join them firmly together with solder2 at the bottom near the opposite end solder brass or tin about one inch wide1 across the half-inch space from the bottom of the inner dish to the edge of the outer dish1 to hold the dishes firmly in place4 ,near the upper edge of the outer dish solder an some strips of lead about one inch long1 by one-half inch wide1 to turn down over the corner when put on1 to hold it in place4 ,now get out two pieces of half-inch board1 eight inches long1 and two and one-half inches wide2 with a thick saw1 cut channels crosswise of the pieces1 three-eighths of an inch apart and one-fourth inch deep1 the whole length of the pieces1 being careful to run your saw square across the piece every time4 ,next get out pieces to correspond with the number of channels1 eight inches long1 two and one-half inches wide1 one-eighth inch thick1 7sawed out so the sides will be rough1 to enable the bees the better to hold fast to them1 when taking feed74 ,these pieces are to stand edgewise in the inner dish4 ,with a sharp knife bring the ends of the pieces to a thin edge1 so they will easily slip into the channels in the half inch pieces4 ,put the pieces with the channels1 one across each end of the inner dish1 the channels of each facing the inside of the dish1 then slip the ends of your pieces that are one-eighth thick down through the channels1 to the bottom of the inner dish4 ,before you put them down into the dish1 cut out a small notch1 in what will be the lower end of each piece after it is put down into the dish1 so the food when poured in will flow to all parts of the feeder4 ,the pieces or slats when all put edgewise in the dish will reach to the bottom and be on a level with the edges of the inner dish4 ,now for the cover3 get out a piece of board a half-inch thick1 nine and one-fourth inches long1 four inches wide4 ,in the centre of this piece1 with a sharp bit1 make a one-inch hole2 cover the hole with fine wire cloth1 bent a little convex4 ,put this piece of board over the outer dish1 with wire cloth next to the inside of the dish1 7put it across that end where the dishes are soldered together17 hold it in place by turning up over it the pieces of lead soldered on near the upper edge of the outer dish4 ,cover the bottom of the dish with glass1 held in place in the same manner1 by the leads4 ,your ,feeder is now finished4 ,set it over the brood section on the top1 at the rear1 the wood cover next to the back of the hive1 the glass toward the front4 ,cover that portion of the brood section of the hive1 not covered with the feeder1 with a honey board1 so no bees can get up into the cap of the hive4 ,now to feed1 pour the feed in at the inch hole1 in the cover4 ,the bees pass from the hive up between the sides of the outer and inner dishes1 in the half-inch space1 over the sides of the inner dish1 in the half-inch space between the cover of the outer dish and the edges of the slats that are placed edgewise in the inner dish1 and pass down between the slats1 after feed in the inner dish4 ,the hole in the cover should be kept closed with a cork1 to confine the heat to the hive1 exclude insects1 etc4 ,when first commencing to feed a stock1 scatter some of the feed over the tops of the frames in the brood section2 also on the sides of the dishes on each side of the half-inch space leading lo the feed1 and on top of the slats of the feeder1 so the bees may find the way to the feed4 ,after they once learn the road1 they will need no coaxing to induce them to take the feed given them4 ,the first warm days in early spring1 as soon as the bees can fly a few hours in the middle of the day1 mix corn meal with rye meal1 equal parts1 and set out1 in pans or other shoal dishes1 near the hives4 ,the bees will carry this to their hives in considerable quantities4 ,it it used as a substitute for pollen or bee bread1 and is very essential in forwarding the increase of bees in early spring4 ,the meal should be fed very early in spring1 for as soon as the bees can collect pollen from the natural sources--trees1 shrubs1 flowers1 etc41 they will not take this meal4 ,feeding for ,early ,swarms4 ,if you wish early swarms1 keep the bees confined in their labors to the brood section of the hive1 or in other words1 do not give them access to the boxes1 and commence as early in the spring as the bees begin to fly in the middle of the day1 and feed each stock at evening about one-half pound of the liquid feed4 ,continue this till your swarms issue1 then discontinue feeding4 ,feeding for ,surplus ,honey4 ,if you wish surplus honey instead of swarms1 put on your side boxes as early in the spring as the bees commence brisk work on flowers1--as a general rule1 say a few days before fruit blossoms appear4 ,feed as directed for swarms until about ten days before white clover blossoms1 then put on the top boxes1 leaving room only for feeder4 ,then for ten or twelve days feed them all they will take4 ,feed at evening4 ,they will at first1 perhaps1 take from five to ten pounds every night4 ,crowd them hard1 for the object is now to get every part of the brood section 7not occupied by eggs and brood7 filled with honey2 and if possible1 crowd the bees into the boxes to commence the work of comb building1 so that during the yield of honey from flowers1 you can get every ounce collected1 stored in the boxes4 ,by early and judicious feeding1 we have encouraged breeding so that now our hives are filled1 almost to overflowing1 with bees1 ready to gather the harvest from the flowers as soon as they commence to yield honey4 ,discontinue feeding1 while the yield of honey continues in full supply from the flowers4 ,at the close of the yield1 if you have boxes half filled or more1 feed all they will take up for a few days1 or until your boxes are finished4 ,feeding for ,winter4 ,the last of ,september or first of ,october feed such stocks as are short of stores1 to winter them4 ,each stock should have twenty pounds of honey in the brood section to winter safely4 ,if they have less than that1 feed until they have that quantity1 or take a frame of honey from a stock that has some to spare1 and exchange with the one that is short1 and so proceed until all have sufficient stores to winter safely4 ,in no case take out frames at the close of the season1 and leave that space without a frame1 or with an empty frame4 ,at the commencement of winter every hive must 7to winter safely7 have its full number of frames filled with comb1 no matter if they are not filled with honey 7if the hive has the required number of pounds17 but each frame must be filled1 or nearly filled with comb1 or there is great danger of loss from sudden changes of temperature through the winter4 ,in feeding for box honey1 it often requires more than one pound of feed to secure a pound in boxes1 for the bees consume some while storing it1 and they often find some place in the hive which1 like the crowded omnibus or street car1 is not so full but that additions may be made4 ,the reader will bear in mind this simple fact3 ,bees do not make honey1 they simply collect it4 ,honey undergoes no chemical change in the stomach of the bee4 ,several years since my bees had access to several molasses hogsheads1 and the result was1 ,i found pure molasses stored in my hives1 in the same comb with nice white honey4 ,i am satisfied that the bee does not make honey1 but collects it4 ,my feed is prepared and recommended in view of this fact1 and in perfect accord with all points bearing upon this subject4 ,the feed is of the same color as the nicest1 white clover honey1 and when put in boxes by the bees with the honey collected from flowers1 7,i have no doubt in many instances in alternate layers in the same cell with honey from flowers17 it cannot be distinguished1 either in color or taste1 from honey collected wholly from flowers4 ,illustration ,,chapter ,v4 ,,boxes ,,for ,,surplus ,,honey4 ,,in the last chapter directions were given1 when to put on boxes1 but it is important to know more about this matter1 the kind of boxes to use1 how made1 etc4 ,i shall recommend a glass-box2 that is1 glass sides with wood corner-posts1 top1 and bottom1#d such as ,i use with the ,controllable ,hive4 ,the size and description of box is as follows1 viz3 get out a piece of board six and three-sixteenths inches long1 by four and three-sixteenths inches wide2 three-sixteenths inch thick for the top of box2 another1 same size1 for bottom4 ,for the top boxes1 that is1 the boxes that are to be placed over the brood section1 with a sharp bit make four one-inch holes in one of the pieces1 for the passage of the bees from the hive to the top boxes2 next get out four pieces1 five inches long1 five-eighths square1 for corner-posts to the boxes4 ,rebate two sides of each post about one-fourth inch square1 to receive the glass sides and ends1 which are held in place by small tin points4 ,get glass for the boxes #e #e inches square for the sides1 and #c #e inches square for the ends4 ,nail the bottom and top to the ends of the posts1 having the corner of the post come out even with the corners of top and bottom4 ,a small 7half-inch7 finishing brad will hold the posts in place4 ,while nailing1 hold the box perfectly square4 ,footnote #d3 ,these boxes are shown in engravings under head of ,construction of ,controllable ,hive1 ,chapter ,,xviii1 which1 with the description here given1 cannot fail to be understood4 ,for the side boxes1 omit the holes in bottom1 and leave out the glass from one end1 and in place of the glass put in a piece of wood five inches long1 two inches wide1 three-eighths inch thick2 place this piece in the center at the end1 leaving an open space next to each corner post at that end for the passage of the bees from the hive to the boxes4 ,these boxes are just wide enough for two combs running the longest way of the box4 ,before putting in the glass1 if you have any pieces of white1 clean comb1 it will be a great advantage to stick two small pieces of this comb in each box1 where you wish the comb built4 ,place the pieces in the top of the box two inches apart4 ,melt the edge of the comb and apply in place where you want it1 while hot2 hold it in place till it cools1 and it will remain4 ,the bees will commence work much sooner in boxes with the comb than they would without1 even if the pieces of comb are not more than an inch square4 ,these boxes1 when well filled with honey1 will each weigh about four and one-half pounds4 ,honey in the boxes is very attractive1 and is sought for in the market by customers who have purchased in this form4 ,honey put up in these nice glass boxes shows its superior quality at a glance1 and customers prefer to purchase in such boxes1 with no tare deducted for weight of box1 to purchasing in the ordinary wood box with the weight of the box deducted4 ,in taking these boxes from the hive1 when filled with honey1 in warm weather1 ,i recommend the following method3 ,take the boxes off early in the morning1 and carry them to some out-building1 and put them in a clean1 tight box or barrel2 place the boxes in such a manner that the openings in the boxes will be free for the passage of the bees from them4 ,spread over the box or barrel1 a thin piece of cloth4 ,the bees will leave the boxes1 and collect on the under side of the cloth1 which must be turned every few minutes1 until all are out1 except a few drones and very young ,lees2 these can be taken out with a pencil4 ,to facilitate the removal of the bees from the boxes1 if any are obstinate about leaving1 remove the glass in the sides of the boxes1 if the cover is not fastened to it4 ,the greater part of the bees from these boxes will return to their hives2 excepting a very few young ones which had never before been away from the hive2 these will be lost4 ,thirty boxes like the ones here recommended fit each controllable hive--ten on each side1 and ten on top over the brood section4#e ,footnote #e3 ,when the box frames or partitions are taken out in the honey season1 the bees will often1 if the stock is strong1 spread out over the bottom1 so that in putting the frame in1 a large number will get crushed4 ,to prevent this1 get out two pieces of wood1 each about one and one-half inches wide1 and one-fourth inch thick1 one eighteen inches long1 the other twenty-two inches long2 one edge of the long piece bevel to a thin edge1 about the shape of a carpenter's chisel4 ,nail the long piece in the center to the end of the short piece at right angles with it1 with the beveled edge down1 so the beveled edge will be level with the end of the short piece2 also bevel the lower end of the short piece4 ,when the bees are spread over the bottom of the box section1 with this instrument push them gently back to the brood section4 ,to do this1 thrust the instrument down into the box section with the beveled edge down2 taking hold of the end of the short piece1 or handle1 work the bees gently back to the brood section1 and when close up to the combs of the hive1 let it remain to keep the bees from spreading over the bottom till you get the box frame down in its place1 then remove it1 and push the box frame up close to the brood section1 so the ends of the boxes will be as near the brood combs1 as the inside board of the partition was when the combs were built4 ,if this is not done1 and a large space is left1 the bees will either lengthen the cells in the outer comb of the brood section1 or build a new comb1 between the ends of the boxes1 and the outer comb of the brood section4 ,in either case1 we would find it very troublesome when we remove the boxes1 and wish to put in the partition for wintering4 ,be sure to put the large box frame up close to the combs of the brood section1 that is1 leave barely space enough for the bees to pass between the ends of the boxes1 and the outer comb of the brood section4 ,when boxes are to be taken off1 use tobacco smoke freely1 to quiet the anger of the bees4 ,puff smoke in at the entrance of the hive1 before you touch it1 then start the top boxes from their fastening1 giving the bees a puff or two of smoke at every crevice about the boxes at the top and sides4 ,cake of ,honey in ,boxes in ,warm ,weather4 ,considerable care is necessary for the preservation of honey in boxes removed from the hives in warm weather4 ,as soon as the bees are all out of the boxes1 seal up all openings to the boxes1 and set them away 7in the same position they occupied in the hive1 so the honey will not leak from the cells7 in a dry1 dark1 cool room4 ,we must now guard against the moth4 ,as in warm weather the instincts of the fly is directed to the dead carcase1 so is the moth directed to honey-comb left without bees in the summer season1 and by a similar process is each destroyed4 ,when the bees have been off about ten days1 or perhaps a little less if the weather is very warm1 examine closely for the first appearance of the moth worms on the surface of the combs in the boxes4 ,their presence may be known by small1 thread-like webs or cocoons on the surface of the comb1 growing larger as the moth worm enlarges in growth4 ,if no remedy is applied1 these worms will completely destroy the beauty of the honey in the boxes in a very few days4 ,watch the boxes closely1 and on the first appearance of the least sign of worms in the boxes1 fumigate with burning sulphur1 thus3 open the passages in the boxes2 have ready a tight1 clean box2 saturate some very dry pine shavings with melted sulphur4 ,after placing your boxes of honey in the box1 set a saucer or plate in the box at the bottom1 away from the honey boxes1 so they will not take fire4 ,do not use too many shavings2 if you do1 it will injure the honey comb in the boxes1 by giving it a green color1 and imparting to it a disagreeable taste2 a half-dozen shavings each four inches long is enough4 ,place them in the dish and ignite them1 and cover closely1 so no fumes can escape2 let them remain for a few minutes1 7not more than five1 less is often sufficient2 it depends something on the amount of sulphur adhering to the shavings1 as well as the size of box1 number of boxes to be fumigated1 etc47 ,with a little practice you will manage correctly and successfully4 ,as soon as the boxes are fumigated1 seal up every opening carefully1 and set away as before directed1 in a dry1 dark1 cool room4 ,watch the boxes for a few days1 to be sure the worms are all killed4 ,if you find they are not1 give them another dose of the sulphur4 ,after the worms are all killed1 and every opening to the box sealed up1 wrap each box separately in paper1 and they will be safe through the summer4 ,how the eggs of the moth get into the boxes1 has always puzzled bee-keepers4 ,it is hardly possible for the moth miller to pass through a hive crowded with bees1 to deposit her eggs in the crowded boxes4 ,how they get there must be guess-work--that they are there1 is well known to many bee keepers4 ,i feel very confident that the eggs are deposited there after the boxes are taken from the hive1 and while we are getting the bees out of the boxes4 ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,,swarming ,,and ,,hiving4 ,,under the old systems of bee keeping1 swarming was very imperfectly understood4 ,and even at the present time it is amusing to see how many old bee-keepers manage their bees4 ,this is a class of old fogies1 who denounce all improvements and progress in bee keeping1 and who1 year after year1 move in the same tracks in the management of their bees1 asserting that they know all about bees that is worth knowing4 ,it is1 to say the least1 amusing1 to see how this class of bee-keepers manage when their bees swarm4 ,in the middle of some very warm day in ,june or ,july1 the alarm bees swarming1 is sounded4 ,immediately the whole household is turned out1 some beating tin pans1 some sounding horns1 some shaking cow bells--anything and everything with which to make a terrible din is caught up in the excitement1 and every member of the household works with the sole aim of making as much noise as possible4 ,this is done to make the bees cluster6 ,if this is not done1 they will leave for the woods6 ,i should think the poor bees would leave any way1 to get rid of the noise and the foolish whims of their owner4 ,but no1 they dislike to leave the place of their nativity1 so in ten minutes or less from the time they leave the hive1 they settle in a cluster on some object1 generally within a half-dozen rods of the hive4 ,and they would have done so in this case if no noise had been made4 ,the noise did not affect them in the least4 ,now the bees are to be hived1 and we will see how it is done in the old way4 ,the bees in this case have clustered on a limb of a valuable pear tree4 ,very sorry they have pitched there1 says the man of perfect knowledge in bee keeping2 ,i dislike to injure that tree1 but there is no help for it4 ,but first a hive must be prepared4 ,it is not quite ready4 7,this is bad management47 ,it must be washed out thoroughly on the inside with salt and water1 and rubbed over with some sweet scented herbs4 ,a bottom board must be got ready etc41 etc4 ,at last the hive is ready4 ,now this wise bee keeper places a table near where the swarm clustered1 sets his hive on the table1 raises one edge four or six inches1 takes his saw--,oh1 it is a pity to cut that nice limb full of fruit from the pear tree2 but it must be done1 thinks this man of perfection in bee management4 ,he grasps the limb firmly near the cluster of bees4 ,they are very cross1 and uneasy4 ,they have been clustered an hour or more1 while he has been getting his hive ready4 ,he saws off the limbs on which the bees are hanging1 and places it carefully1 with the bees adhering1 on the table1 by the side of the hive1 covers all very nicely with a clean sheet1 and leaves them alone to enter the hive4 ,at about sunset he will place the hive with the bees in it on the stand it is to occupy4 ,at the time designated 7about sunset7 he goes out to his hive on the table4 ,it has been a very hot afternoon1 and the hive was where it received the full force of the sun's rays4 ,he carefully raises the sheet4 ,there is the limb on which the bees clustered1 but where are the bees1 they are not on the limb8 ,why1 in the hive1 of course4 ,that is where he expected to find them4 ,he peeps carefully under the hive to see how they are getting along1 but astonishment is depicted on his countenance when he discovers that his hive is empty4 ,his bees have left for other parts beyond his knowledge4 ,he tries to think of some reason why the bees have gone1 and seeks to lay the blame upon the hive4 ,oh6 he says ,i guess they did not like the hive1 but ,i guess ,i shall have better luck next time4 ,to a progressive bee keeper1 one who has correct and practical knowledge of the natural habits of bees1 it is very plain why they left4 ,they were actually driven away by mismanagement4 ,the heat of the sun pouring down upon them1 was enough of itself to drive them off4 ,then placing the limb1 with the cluster adhering to it1 on the table near the hive1 showed lack of knowledge of the natural habits of bees4 ,the hive might as well have been in the house1 as placed where it was4 ,then the hour or more taken to get the hive ready1 gave the bees time to send out their scouts1 to look up a location of their own1 and when these scouts returned1 they left with them for a new home4 ,t contend every swarm does this1 viz3 ,they swarm out of the old parent stock1 led by the old queen4 ,they cluster on some object1 as a tree1 brush or vine1 near the old home4 ,then they immediately send out a few bees or scouts to look up a new home4 ,these scouts may be gone a longer or shorter time4 ,when they return1 if they find the bees clustered where they were when they left1 they soon lead them off to the new quarters1 but if before the scouts are sent out1 or before they return1 the swarm is hived and placed on the stand it is to occupy1 then the swarm will not leave1 for the scouts know not where to find them1 or if they should find them1 the bees would seldom leave a good clean hive1 for a home in the woods4 ,these scouts may often be seen playing about the place where a swarm has clustered1 for several days after the swarm has been hived4 ,had this bee keeper placed his hire on the table1 as soon as the bees were clustered1 and raised the front edge one inch1 instead of four or six inches1 and then1 instead of cutting off the limbs1 if he had taken a basket or pan1 placed it beneath the cluster of bees1 and by a sudden jar of the limb dislodged them from it into the basket or pan1 then emptied them down in front of the hive1 and sprinkled lightly with a little water1 at the same time disturbing them gently with a quill or light brush so they would not collect around and block up the entrance1 except a very few that may be flying in the air 7and these will return to the old hive17 in this way getting them all into the hive1 and immediately carrying it to the stand it was to occupy1 covering it with a board to shade it from the hot rays of the sun1 or placing it in the shade of a tree1 he would have saved his bees1 the damage to his pear tree1 and much perplexity4 ,by the old methods of managing bees1 there were no means of knowing when to expect swarms2 consequently the bees were sometimes watched all summer1 in expectation of swarms any pleasant day1 as outside indications were fa vol able for them2 yet they would often adhere to the old hive throughout the entire summer4 ,with the controllable hive and new system of bee management1 as shown in this work1 swarming is brought completely under the control of the bee keeper4 ,it is well for him to understand correctly what are the requisites and preparations for natural swarming by the bees1 when left to themselves in a natural state4 ,they are as follows3 ,the bees must be obtaining honey freely1 either from flowers1 or from feed supplied them4 ,the combs must be filled with brood in all stages of growth1 from the egg just deposited in the cell1 to the perfect bee just emerging4 7,and from this1 bee keepers will note what conditions are required at the time swarms are forced1 as recommended in my plan47 ,when this condition of affairs is reached1 the bees construct queen cells1 7that is1 if they deride to swarm2 they will do as they like about it1 if left entirely to themselves17 from which in about sixteen days the queens will hatch1 unless the bees should change their intentions1 and decide not to swarm1 and destroy all the queen cells4 ,remember1 they are having it all their own way4 ,when these cells are sealed over and finished is the time 7if everything is favorable71 when the first swarm leaves1 led off by the old queen4 ,some of the most reliable works on bees have taught that the queen cells must be half finished before the queen will deposit the egg that is to produce the queen2 but this1 ,i find by close observation1 is a mistake2 for if you take the queen away from a stock1 with no queen cells in any stage of formation in the hive1 the bees will rear a queen from a worker egg1 deposited in an ordinary worker cell4 ,and who shall say they do not do this when the queen is present8 ,i am satisfied they do4 ,thus we see in natural swarming1 with the bees left to themselves1 the old queen leaves with the first swarm1 at about the time the queen cells are sealed over and finished1 which is about eight days before the young queens hatch4 ,when the young queens hatch1 after-swarms 7as second and third issues1 or all after the first17 will issue4 ,second swarms may be expected in about eight days after the first4 ,this time will sometimes vary1 as the hatching of the queen somewhat depends on the weather1 the number of bees left in the old stock1 etc42 a low temperature retards the hatching1 while a high temperature forwards it4 ,at evening of about the eighth or tenth day after the first swarm1 by putting your ear close to the hive you will hear1 very plainly1 every few minutes1 several clear and distinct peeping sounds1 very sharp at times1 then hoarse and dull4 ,this sound proceeds from the young queen just hatched4 ,when it is heard1 look out for a swarm the next day2 though it sometimes happens that one or two days will intervene before they will issue4 ,but as long as the sound continues1 be on the lookout for swarms4 ,this peeping can always be heard before a second swarm issues1 if we will take the trouble to listen4 ,the time between second and third swarms is invariably from one to four days4 ,it is useless to look for after-swarms from a stock after twenty days from the first4 ,they are generally all out within sixteen days from the issue of the first swarm4 ,i have given in another place1 under the head of ,swarming ,controlled1 instructions how to manage swarming under my new system4 ,some additional information ,i will give in this connection4 ,just before swarms are expected1 if there are no trees near your hives1 or if there are large trees from which it would be difficult to take a swarm of bees were they to cluster on the branches1 procure several evergreen trees1 such as spruce or fir1 three or four feet high4 ,leave the limbs on1 excepting about a foot at the bottom4 ,sharpen the trunks1 so they can be set in the ground and lifted out with ease4 ,with a bar make large holes1 about a foot deep1 in front of your hives1 some distant about six feet1 others from twelve to thirty feet4 ,set a half-dozen or more of these trees in these holes1 putting in by the side of them a small stone or piece of wood1 to hold firmly in place and prevent swaying by the wind4 ,when your swarms issue1 they will be very likely to cluster on some of these trees1 when they can be conveniently gathered in the ,controllable ,hive4 ,in hiving1 if the bees have clustered on some one of the trees set for them1 place the ,controllable ,hive on the stand it is to occupy1 allowing the stand to project two feet in front of the hive4 ,draw back the bottom board under the brood section ten or fifteen inches1 to give the bees a good chance to enter the hive4 ,shade the hive well4 ,now go to the tree on which your swarm is clustered4 ,remove the stone or piece of wood that holds it in place2 lift the tree1 carefully avoiding any jar1 carry it to the hive1 and hold the cluster down to the stand and close up to the hive1 as near the entrance as possible4 ,then give the tree a sudden jar1 sufficient to dislodge the cluster of bees4 ,they will fall directly at the entrance of the hive1 and immediately commence to enter4 ,sprinkle lightly with water1 and gently disturb those that stop about the entrance1 with a quill or brush1 till all are made to enter the hive4 ,then slide the bottom board forward to its place and the work is done4 ,should the bees cluster on some large tree or other out of the way place1 the manner of hiving must be varied4 ,set your hive near by with a wide board in front to keep the bees out of the grass and dirt4 ,arrange the hive as before directed4 ,if the bees are clustered on a small limb1 high above your reach1 secure a basket to a pole1 and raise it directly beneath the cluster4 ,dislodge the bees from their position1 when they will fall directly into the basket1 which you should take down quickly and shake the bees from it down to the entrance to the hive1 and proceed as before4 ,keep the limb on which they were clustered in motion for a few minutes1 to prevent their return4 ,should they cluster on the body of a tree1 or a large limb1 where they cannot be shaken off1 set your hive near by1 as before directed1 and with a handled dipper dip them off and turn them down in front of the hive near the entrance4 ,dip very carefully1 so as not to crush any of the bees4 ,they will not attempt to sting if you treat them well1 and prove to them that you are their friend4 ,after you have dipped off a portion of the bees1 and got them moving into the hive1 if the queen is with them1 they will all leave the cluster and join their companions who are entering their new home4 ,but if the queen remains with the cluster1 as soon as those entering the hive discover that she is not with them1 they will leave the hive and rejoin the cluster4 ,so it is well to keep dipping as long as you can get any of the bees1 or till you are certain the bees are leaving the cluster and entering the hive of their own accord4 ,it sometimes happens in natural swarming1 that when a swarm issues1 led by the old queen1 which has occupied the hive for a year or more1 that she finds herself unable to fly1 and drops down in front of the hive4 ,in this case1 if left to themselves1 the bees1 after flying about for perhaps five or ten minutes1 will return to the hive from whence they came1 and remain until the young queens hatch1 issuing again1 about the time a second swarm would have come out1 or perhaps a little earlier4 ,if you are on hand you can prevent the swarm returning1 but you must be lively4 ,if you find the bees are flying longer than usual without clustering1 and appear scattered and disorganized in their movements1 look in front of the hive from which they issued1 for the queen4 ,you will probably find her within two or three feet of the hive4 ,put her in a tumbler1 and cover closely1 to prevent her escape4 ,as soon as you find the bees have commenced to return to the old hive1 set it back out of the way1 and throw a sheet or some other covering over it4#f ,then set your ,controllable ,hive in its place1 with the bottom board drawn back as directed in hiving a new swarm4 ,set the tumbler containing the queen over the brood section1 so the confined queen can pass down into the hive1 but leaving no chance for her to escape by any other way4 ,the bees will then enter the hive readily4 ,and as soon as all are in1 which will be in a few minutes1 remove the hive to a new stand and shade as directed before4 ,set the old stock back in its former place4 ,footnote #f3 ,if other hives are near1 on each side1 it will be well to throw the covering over them also1 to prevent the swarm entering any other than the designed hive1 as they might possibly do1 if the hives were only a few feet distant4 ,the foregoing circumstance often happens when bees are managed on the old swarming plan1 and queens that are unable to fly are usually very old4 ,on my plan of management such cases are of rare occurrence4 ,natural swarms usually issue between nine o'clock in the forenoon1 and one o'clock in the afternoon4 ,occasionally one will issue earlier in the forenoon or later in the afternoon2 but as a general rule they make their appearance between the hours specified4 ,very early swarms hived in ,controllable ,hives should have access to the boxes on one side only4 ,in about ten days after being hived1 and as soon as the bees are well at work in these1 give them access to the other side4 ,swarms that are hived late in the season1 will not require boxes1 until the next season1 as it is necessary to have the brood section filled1 or nearly filled1 before the bees have access to the boxes4 ,it is important that we have the combs in the brood section built straight in the frames1 so as to be easily lifted out separately4 ,to aid in securing this object1 when a swarm is first hived in a controllable hive1 raise the rear of the hive four inches1 by putting under it a piece of joist1 having the hive perfectly level from side to side4 ,this gives the frames a pitch forward1 and will greatly aid in securing straight combs4 ,let the hive remain in this position for a week or ten days1 then set it down level4 ,if you have it to spare1 one frame filled with comb placed in the brood section near the center will insure straight combs in the balance4 ,if no precaution is taken in this direction1 the bees will sometimes build the comb crosswise of the brood section1 notwithstanding the triangular comb guides in the frames of each controllable hive4 ,as straight combs in the brood section are very important1 we should employ every available means to aid in securing them4 ,it is well to keep on hand a few plain boxes1 each with four movable frames1 like those in the controllable hive4 ,if at any time a swarm comes out at the very last of the honey season1 hive them in one of these boxes4 ,they will probably enlarge or quite fill the four frames with comb1 and perhaps store a little honey4 ,then1 in the fall1 put these four frames1 with the bees and comb1 in a controllable hive1 and add two frames1 well filled with honey1 from a stock that can spare it4 ,in this way you will build up a good stock for winter1 whereas if you had hived them in a full sized controllable hive so late in the season1 they would probably have put a little comb in each of the six frames1 but not enough to winter1 rendering it necessary for you to feed with the liquid feed in the fall4 ,it is better to have four frames nearly or quite filled with comb1 than to have six frames with a very little comb in each4 ,it sometimes happens that a swarm of bees1 which has worked well in boxes through the entire honey season1 will swarm out about the time the yield of honey ceases4 ,if managed on the old plan1 such swarms are worthless1 but by hiving them in a box with four movable frames1 as directed1 they make valuable stocks4 ,all such swarms may be returned to the old stock1 as directed in another chapter1 yet we sometimes wish to increase the number of our stocks to the utmost1 and it is convenient to know how to make valuable stock of these late issues4 ,then they can either be returned or hived1 whichever the bee keeper thinks is most for his or her interest4 ,,chapter ,,vii4 ,,anger ,,of ,,bees4 ,,the anger of bees1 when once thoroughly aroused1 is much to be dreaded1 as the results which follow are often of a very serious nature4 ,in my own case1 ,i can handle bees with perfect impunity4 ,they rarely make any attempt to sting1 no matter what liberties ,i take with them4 ,i always intend to be very careful1 and handle them gently1 making them understand that ,i do not mean to harm them4 ,in my first efforts in handling bees they were very apt to sting me1 for the reason that ,i did not understand their nature2 consequently they mistook my intentions1 and often forced me to seek shelter from their attacks4 ,now ,i seldom use any protection when working among them4 ,often1 in transferring the bees and comb from the old box hive to the ,controllable ,hive1 ,i roll up my sleeves1 and with no protection whatever1 for the hands or face1 cut out the comb from the old hive1 with the bees adhering to it1 and arrange and fasten it in the new hive1 without the bees making any attempt to sting me4 ,i would not recommend any one to do this1 until they are so well acquainted with1 and accustomed to handling1 the bees1 as to understand perfectly their every characteristic1 and be quite certain that they will not make an attack4 ,it is better to protect the hands and face from their attacks1 as you will thus feel greater confidence in yourself1 and can perform all operations without fear of stings4 ,it is well to understand what will arouse the anger of bees1 and cause them to sting4 ,if we breathe upon them1 when they are in or about the hive or boxes1 they deem it an insult1 and will dash at and sting us at once4 ,any sudden jar of the hive is instantly resented4 ,all quick1 spiteful motions about the hive1 such as running1 jumping1 etc41 is noticed1 and quite sure to be followed by a sting4 ,the finger pointed at them with a quick1 spiteful motion when they are standing as sentinels about the entrance of the hive1 often provokes stings4 ,if they come buzzing around1 threatening to sting1 perhaps striking your hat almost like a bullet1 and should you return the compliment by striking at them with your hand1 they will be quite sure to sting you4 ,the better way is1 if unprotected1 to hold down your head so as to protect your face1 and move away from the hive as quietly as possible4 ,when the bees find you are retreating1 they will not follow you far4 ,always remember that if one bee stings you1 others are very sure to immediately follow1 unless you retreat4 ,i believe that bees have a language by which they make known to each other their wants and wishes2 and ,i feel certain they know those who have the care of them1 and become accustomed to the motions and appearance of those who are seen by them daily4 ,the members of my family are seldom stung by the bees1 notwithstanding ,i sometimes have fifty hives or more where we pass within twenty feet of them many times a day1 while the bees are flying in thousands about each hive4 ,in the middle of the day1 in the honey season1 the air for many rods about the hives is full of bees4 ,i find my bees are much more likely to attack strangers who come to see them1 than members of the family4 ,to ,subdue the ,anger of ,bees4 ,i have tested every means recommended for subduing the anger of bees1 and have found tobacco smoke the thing1 when rightly applied4 ,have a tin-worker make you a tin tube1 one inch in diameter1 six inches long1 and fit stoppers of soft wood closely in each end1 two and three inches long respectively1 with a hole through each1 one-fourth inch in diameter4 ,fit one end of the longer stopper to hold in the mouth4 ,before placing the shorter piece in the tube1 cover the inside end with wire cloth1 bent a little convex1 to prevent the ashes and tobacco filling the quarter-inch orifice4 ,taper the outer end of the short piece nearly to a point4 ,remove the mouth-piece1 and fill the tube nearly full of tobacco 7cigars are best1 for they burn freely47 ,dip with live embers1 replace the mouth-piece and blow the smoke from the pointed end4 ,with this instrument smoke may be forced among the bees in any part of the hive or boxes4 ,in all operations likely to arouse the anger of the bees1 as taking off and putting on boxes1 lifting out comb frames1 putting on and taking off feeder1 removing the honey board1 examining the rearing boxes in queen raising1 etc41 smoke the hive well4 ,in-short1 use smoke freely when about to perform any operation upon the bees4 ,before touching the hive give the bees two or three smart puffs at each entrance of the hive2 then commence your operations immediately4 ,if the honey board is over the brood section1 and your operations are to be performed in that part of the hive1 raise the board just enough to puff in the smoke1 but not enough for the bees to come out4 ,give them the smoke here freely for about one minute1 before you remove the board4 ,they will show their submission by a loud humming throughout the hive4 ,when they set up this humming noise is the time to proceed with your work4 ,remove the honey board entirely1 keeping the smoker at hand ready for use1 and giving them a puff of smoke occasionally to keep them under submission4 ,it is best for the inexperienced bee raiser to protect the hands and face in all operations1 at least until he feels perfect confidence in his ability to avoid irritating the bees sufficiently to cause them to sting4 ,to protect the hands1 wear thick woolen mittens1 with very long wrists1 so they will come up over the dress or coat sleeve1 thus protecting the hands and wrists completely from stings4 ,to protect the face and neck1 get coarse black lace1 one-half yard wide and a yard and a quarter in length4 ,take three-fourths of this piece for the front breadth1 and the balance for the back breadth4 ,seam together at the selvedges1 and gather the upper edge on an elastic cord so as to fit closely1 and draw around the crown of the hat ,when putting on the hat ready for use1 leave the longer part in front1 to button beneath the coat or vest of a gentleman or the sack of a lady4 ,at the back the lace tucks beneath the collar4 ,thus protected1 we are perfectly safe from stings1 and can see as well1 and perform all operations nearly as well1 as when uncovered4 ,the best antidote for stings is the application of water in which salt has been dissolved--a heaping teaspoonful of salt to a teacupful of water4 ,bathe the affected part freely1 and in severe cases take a swallow of the salt and water into the stomach4 ,avoid rubbing or irritating the stung part4 ,be sure to extract the sting immediately1 as the longer it remains the more serious will be the consequences4 ,,chapter ,,viii4 ,,the ,,bee ,,moth4 ,,in some localities the bee moth is said to be very destructive1 yet ,i regard the depredations of this insect as much less to be feared than some bee-keepers suppose4 ,the bee moth is the agency provided by nature for returning back to the earth the contents of any hive when left by the bees1 in the same manner that the flesh fly is the means provided for returning to the earth the carcase of any animal4 ,i do not believe that a strong1 healthy stock of bees was ever attacked and destroyed by the bee moth4 ,the stock must from some cause become reduced in numbers1 so there are not bees enough to cover all the comb1 before the moth will make an attack4 ,but when the comb is unprotected1 the moth follows the instinct of its nature1 and deposits her eggs in it4 ,the bees from some cause keep decreasing1 and the moth continues depositing her eggs in the vacated comb1 until the entire comb of the hive is a complete mass of vile worms1 the progeny of the bee moth4 ,about this time the bee keeper notices for the first time1 7for1 if he is keeping bees on the old plan1 he lets them take their own course1 believing if he meddles with them1 they will run out17 that something is wrong with that hive4 ,so he examines them1 and finds the combs a mass of webs1 with hundreds of moth millers among the combs1 and the combs themselves filled with vile worms4 ,ah6 he says1 the bee moth has destroyed that swarm of bees2 when in fact the bee moth had no more to do with bringing about the loss than the maggots1 found in the carcase of a nice lamb destroyed by dogs1 had to do with destroying the life of the animal4 ,oh1 says some wise bee keeper1 ,i know better than that1 for ,i have seen the bee moth flying about my hives and trying to get in4 ,very well2 ,i have seen the flesh fly circling about live animals1 but think you there was any danger from them1 as long as the animal was in health8 ,not a bit4 ,neither is there any danger from the bee moth1 if you keep your stocks of bees strong and healthy4 ,but if you have weak or diseased stock1 or have honey in boxes in warm weather unprotected by the bees1 look out for the bee moth4 ,fumigate with sulphur all combs taken from hives in warm weather2 immediately after which1 seal up closely in well-made hives or boxes1 to prevent access by the moth miller4 ,all combs taken out late in the fall1 and kept through the winter in a place where they will be liable to freeze1 may be sealed up so the moth cannot gain access to them1 and the contents will keep safely through the next summer4 ,freezing destroys the vitality of the moth eggs4 ,fumigating with sulphur1 as directed in ,care of ,box ,honey in ,warm ,weather1 will destroy the moth worms1 and prevent damage to the combs1 if they receive attention within a few days after the eggs are hatched2 but if the worms are suffered to remain for any considerable length of time1 the combs will be badly damaged1 if not entirely ruined4 ,in protecting honey or empty comb from the bee moth in warm weather1 every bee keeper should recollect that eternal vigilance is the price of success6 ,with the ,controllable ,hive and new system of bee management1 the true condition of stocks is known at all times4 ,the stocks are very populous in ,july and ,august1 which is the time the bee moth is most numerous about the hives4 ,i never had a stock damaged by the bee moth since ,i adopted my present system of bee management4 ,illustration ,,chapter ,,ix4 ,,robbing4 ,,loss of stocks by robbing shows carelessness1 or a lack of knowledge as to the proper care of bees4 ,not one strong1 healthy stock of bees in a thousand will be robbed1 if proper precaution is taken4 ,during a copious yield of honey there is very little danger of robbing4 ,when there is a slack in the yield1 the bees will search about for plunder1 and if a weak stock is found1 they will be very likely to attack it4 ,it is the duty of every intelligent bee-keeper to know the exact condition of his stocks at all times1 and if from any cause he has a weak stock1 be sure to ascertain the cause of their weakness1 and if they are healthy stocks1 contract the entrances1 in accordance with the number of bees to pass4 ,but if they are found to be diseased1 remove them4 ,the bee1 like the human race1 is much better able to defend itself against the attacks of an enemy when there is but one avenue of approach1 than if there are several4 ,no refuse honey should be placed in the open air1 accessible to all the bees alike1 as this would be very likely to create a desire for plunder1 and incite robbing4 ,never1 when a stock is being robbed1 change it from one stand to another a few rods distant1 to prevent robbing2 for this is a very great injury to the stock1 as all the bees that have marked the location 7at the season when robbing will most likely occur17 will return to the old stand1 and be lost4 ,the best remedy1 or rather preventative against robbing1 is to contract the entrances to the hive4 ,after bees have once commenced robbing1 and have been successful in capturing and plundering one stock1 they will1 as soon as they have secured the honey from that one1 attack some other with great impetuosity4 ,success in plundering renders them very courageous2 but if you have contracted the entrances as directed1 they will be very likely to meet their match1 and learn a good lesson4 ,a little punishment is necessary to teach them their proper place4 ,i knew one of these old wise-heads--such a one as spoken of in the chapter on ,swarming and ,hiving--to use his familiar logic3 ,what he didn't know about bees wasn't worth knowing4 ,he didn't want any book larnin' to know how to keep bees2 he had allers kept 'em1 and his father before him4 ,well1 this ,mr4 ,wiseman found1 or thought he had found1 that his neighbor's bees were robbing his stocks4 ,zounds6 says he1 ,i'll fix 'em6 ,so he goes early in the morning1 before the bees are flying1 and confines his stock1 which he thought was being robbed1 by nailing a piece of board closely over each entrance to the hive1 so no bees could pass in or out4 ,about sunrise2 or a little later1 the robber bees begin to collect on the front of his hive1 seeking to gain access4 ,he waits until a quart or more have collected1 and then he takes two or three quarts of boiling water1 and dashes it upon them4 ,this he continues through that day1 and the next1 at intervals1 as often as there are any bees collected on the front of his hive4 ,during this time he has killed more than a half bushel of bees4 ,the third day he opens his hive1 but to his great surprise1 no bees appear1 and on examination he finds the bees all dead4 ,they had suffocated4 ,want of air1 and the boiling water upon the hive1 had destroyed them4 ,and to crown all1 and make his loss still more severe1 he found it was his own bees that were engaged in plundering his stock1 and his neighbor's bees had nothing to do with it4 ,the vast number of bees slaughtered with the hot water1 so reduced in numbers several of his stocks1 that they never recovered1 but fell prey to the moth miller that season4 ,and that was the way he fixed 'em4 ,there are so many whims and false notions about bees1 that great care should be exercised in adopting plans recommended by inexperienced bee keepers1 or that class who claim to know everything about bees1 yet by their practice show that they know very little4 ,there is one other plan1 aside from contracting the entrance1 which will prove successful1 but which is a little more trouble to apply4 ,if you find a stock is being robbed1 look them over1 and be sure that they have a fertile1 healthy queen4 ,if the queen is found to be all right1 but with few bees1 take from this hive two comb frames filled with comb1 with no eggs or brood1 and go to a populous stock1 and exchange these two combs for two others filled with brood4 ,select such as have most of the brood sealed over1 as you want that which will hatch the quickest4 ,put these two combs in the hive that is being robbed1 fasten up the stock by putting wire cloth over the entrances1 giving them air yet preventing the passage of bees4#g ,footnote #g3 ,it is well to confine the bees when a large number of robbers are inside--a larger number if possible than the swarm itself1 for1 being confined a few days1 they will make that hive their home1 and aid in defending its stores against other robbers with as much energy as the bees of the original swarm4 ,when you put in the two frames with brood1 if you find but little honey in the hive--not enough to last the bees a month or more--put in one frame containing honey4 ,put on the feeder and carry the hive to a dark and quiet room1 and fill the feeder with pure1 soft water4 ,let the bees remain in this room four days2 then about one hour before sunset1 set them on the old stand1 giving them their liberty1 with the entrances to the hive contracted--the lower entrance closed entirely1 and the upper one half closed4 ,intelligent bee keepers will readily understand why this plan should prove a success3--,first1 the bees that hatch from the brood comb given the weak stock1 will be a great encouragement to the few bees in the hive2 and in a very few days they will aid in defending the hive against the attacks of robbers4 ,again--removing the hive from the stand seems to disorganize the robbers1 for after they have visited the stand for several days1 and find no plunder1 they will give up the search in that direction4 ,before taking the trouble to remove a hive as here directed1 care should be taken to be certain that the bees are being robbed4 ,you can be sure whether it is your own bees or others that are robbing1 by sprinkling them with flour as they come from the hive which you suspect is being robbed1 and watching your other hives1 to see if those you have marked enter them1 being very careful that you are not deceived by the dust from some species of blossoms1 which adheres to the body of the bee1 and might be mistaken for the flour4 ,bees when plundering a stock will often keep at their work until dark1 some of them being unable to find their hive by reason of the darkness4 ,honest workers are not found abroad at that time1 and1 by the way1 this is a very good test of robbing4 ,in concluding this chapter1 ,i advise again3 ,know the condition of your stocks at all times4 ,if any have too few bees1 contract the entrances in accordance with that number of bees to pass4 ,preventative is much better than cure in this case4 ,,chapter ,x4 ,,profits ,,of ,,bee ,,keeping4 ,,twenty-,,five years ago1 and even at the present time1 by the ordinary methods of bee keeping1 if a profit of five dollars from one hive of bees in one season was gained it was considered good luck4 ,you know there is no system in the ordinary methods of bee keeping4 ,it is either good luck or bad luck2--all luck and chance1 anyway4 ,in one year they get five dollars profit from a stock of bees2 the next honey season they get nothing1 and the bees all die in the winter2 or perhaps they will survive that winter1 and the next season swarm1 and fly away to the woods2 or perhaps refuse to swarm1 and remain idly clustered on the front of the hive throughout the entire honey season1 and die from want of food before the winter is half gone4 ,bee keeping by the ordinary methods is a very precarious and uncertain occupation4 ,the profits are small at best1 and losses large and frequent4 ,with my ,controllable ,hive and common sense system of bee management 7as described in this work17 founded on correct and scientific principles1 bee keeping is reduced to a science4 ,there is no luck1 no guess-work1 no chance about it4 ,there can be no loss in bee keeping without a cause2 there can be no gain without a full and correct understanding of the natural habits and requirements of bees4 ,a correct knowledge of the subject insures success4 ,i will now present a few statements1 exhibiting the practical results which follow the use of my ,controllable ,hive and new system of bee management1 and showing the great contrast in profits and general success in the care of bees4 ,in the season of #ahgj1 one of my hives of native bees yielded two hundred and fifty-three pounds of surplus honey1 in glass boxes1 from the #bjth of ,may to the #ast of ,july4 ,in #ahge one hive yielded three hundred and eighty pounds of surplus honey in glass boxes during the season4 ,this was the largest yield ,i ever had1 and shows what is possible by liberal feeding with a thrifty stock of bees1 giving them every facility1 with a view of securing the largest possible amount of surplus box honey4 ,in this case1 ,i selected1 in early spring1 the very best stock ,i could find1 and pushed it as hard as possible throughout the entire spring1 summer and early fall4 ,my success exceeded even my most sanguine expectations4 ,as it may serve to aid others in producing large yields of honey1 ,i will describe minutely the method pursued to secure this large and extraordinary yield4 ,very early in the spring ,i selected the most populous stock in my possession4 ,it was ruled by a young and exceedingly prolific ,hybrid queen1 a mixture of ,italian and ,native blood4 ,i commenced early in the spring to feed this stock lightly but regularly1 every day at evening4 ,i fed about one-half pound of feed per day1 until a few days before the flowers were in bloom profusely6 ,this was done to encourage breeding4 ,very early in the spring they were fed com and rye meal1 as directed in this work4 ,for a few days before the flowers were blooming profusely1 ,i fed liberally--in fact1 gave them all ,i could possibly induce them to take up2 the object being to get the store comb in the body of the hive1 not occupied with brood1 completely filled with honey4 ,the glass boxes1 twenty-six in number 7with the ,feeder17 each holding about four and one-half pounds of honey1 were arranged in connection with the hive 7sides and top17 several weeks prior to the appearance of the flowers1 that the bees might become accustomed to them1 and the more readily enter them1 and commence work4 ,when ,i ceased feeding 7which was on the appearance of the flowers yielding a good supply of honey17 the boxes were filled with bees1 and comb-building had commenced4 ,the hive was at this time filled to overflowing with bees1 and the combs had brood in all stages of growth1 from the egg to the perfect bee4 ,i had taken the precaution to cut out nearly all the drone comb1 and fit in its place worker comb1 so ,i had but very few drones to consume the honey4 ,i had also arranged so as to have no increase by swarming1 but to have all the bees employed storing surplus honey in the boxes throughout the season4 ,as fast as the boxes were filled1 they were removed1 and empty ones substituted in their place4 ,i never saw bees work with such determined industry1 early and late1 and in all kinds of weather4 ,when honey failed at the end of the season1 there was a set of boxes on the hive partially filled4 ,i immediately gave the bees feed until these too were finished4 ,i found1 on weighing the product of this hive in the fall1 that they had given me a fraction over three hundred and eighty pounds of surplus honey in boxes4 ,this honey ,i sold at thirty-five cents a pound1 a little over one hundred and thirty-three dollars1 for surplus honey sold from this one stock4 ,reader1 go thou and do likewise4 ,i had one stock of bees which occupied the same stand1 winter and summer1 for six years1 and during that time they swarmed but once1 and from it ,i sold every year over fifty dollars' worth of surplus honey in glass boxes4 ,a neighbor several times offered me fifty dollars for this stock1 early in the spring before the bees commenced their labors4 ,in #ahgd ,i purchased a swarm of bees in an old box hive4 ,they had not paid their owner a dollar in profit for years4 ,some seasons they would swarm and fly away to the woods2 in other seasons they would remain clustered on the front of the hive through the entire season1 refusing to swarm1 or enter the two small boxes covered with a cap on top of the hive4 ,i transferred the bees from this hive to the ,controllable ,hive1 and they gave me a profit of over forty dollars the first year4 ,i sold my honey in #ahgd for from thirty-three to thirty-five dollars per hundred gross weight--that is1 no tare deducted for weight of the box4 ,the boxes weigh each about one pound1 empty1 and when well filled with honey about four and one-half pounds1 gross4 ,the present season 7#ahhj47 one stock in a ,controllable ,hive1 in the month of ,june1 without being fed or having extra care1 yielded seventy-two pounds of surplus honey in glass boxes4 ,another1 treated in the same manner1 yielded over eighty pounds surplus1 in the same time4 ,another new swarm1 since the first week in ,june1 filled the brood frames with honey1 and produced thirty-eight pounds of surplus in glass boxes1 7filling eight boxes as full as they could be crowded17 and gave me a large swarm the last week in ,june4 ,when box honey brings from thirty-three to thirty-five cents a pound1 gross weight1 my usual yearly average is a little over fifty dollars clean profit from the sale of box honey1 from each stock of bees ,i keep4 ,i intend to keep about twelve stocks each season4 ,i sometimes have a much greater number2 yet it is my purpose to keep only this number each season1 for the production of surplus honey1 swarms1 etc4 ,my average yield of surplus box honey is about two hundred pounds 7perhaps a trifle less7 from each hive of bees that ,i keep1 during each season1 when swarming is prevented and each stock liberally fed4 ,i will here give the testimony of a few of the many1 who have adopted the plan of bee management recommended in this work4 ,i should give the name and post-office address of each1 were it not for the fact that they would receive so many letters of inquiry1 as to make it very disagreeable to them4 ,i have the original and complete letters in my possession1 and such letters ,i am prepared to show at any time4 ,my object in presenting this testimony here1 is to show that the system of bee management recommended herein is not only successful with me1 but with all intelligent bee keepers1 as well4 ,a gentleman from ,vermont writes me1 under date of ,september #ae1 #ahgi1 as follows3 ,i take this opportunity of informing you of the experience ,i have had with the bee hive received from you4 ,about the #ajth of ,may ,i transferred a swarm of bees from a box hive to the ,controllable ,hive4 ,i transferred all the brood combs1 and about eight or ten pounds of honey4 ,i fed them until flowers were plenty1 which encouraged them to build rapidly4 ,about the #beth of ,may ,i put in surplus boxes on the sides1 which they soon entered1 and went to work4 ,the middle of ,june ,i put boxes on top1 as the bees showed symptoms of swarming4 ,by the #ajth of ,july the side boxes were nearly all filled1 and the bees were at work in the top boxes4 ,july #aeth ,i took off sixteen of the twenty side boxes1 well filled and capped1 and placed empty ones in their places4 ,august #eth1 ,i took six of the ten boxes off the top1 well filled4 ,then the dry weather set in1 and the bees came to a stand-still 7thinking the honey season over17 but the basswood revived it for a short time1 enabling them to fill up the boxes pretty full4 ,i obtained in all from this swarm twenty-eight boxes1 weighing one hundred and ten pounds4 ,i shall have ten hives made this winter for use the coming spring4 ,a gentleman writes from ,new ,york1 under date of ,april #b;d1 #ahgi3 ,i have received your hive1 which meets my ideas of what a bee hive should be4 ,it contains all that is required in a bee hive1 or in other words it is just the thing ,i have been wanting4 ,i have been using the ,quinby hive1 so called1 but ,i am now going to keep bees in earnest on your plan4 ,i have the fullest confidence of success with your hive and plan of management4 ,your plan for wintering is a good one1 on scientific principles1 and the arrangement for feeding1 and surplus honey1 can't be beat4 ,a gentleman writes from ,new ,hampshire1 under date of ,april #bfth1 #ahgi3 ,i have tested your hive1 and my bees have done first-rate4 ,i believe the hive is just what it is represented4 ,one strong reason why ,i think so much of your hive is1 there were not a dozen bees died in the hive last winter1 while three of my first swarms in other hives all died--some of them with fifty pounds of honey in the hive4 ,i have lost some winters as many as fifteen or twenty swarms4 ,i have now tested your hive to my satisfaction1 and ,i do not believe bees will die in it1 if your instructions for wintering are carried out4 ,i think your hive is what every bee keeper should have to make a success of bee keeping4 ,a gentleman writes from ,missouri1 under date of ,may #ast1 #ahgi3 ,your bee hive ,i like very much4 ,i put in the swarm last season4 ,they did much better than any swarm ,i had in the ,american hive4 ,i took away more surplus honey than from any of the others4 ,i can recommend the ,controllable ,hive to all bee keepers4 ,this spring ,i have put up fourteen more ,controllable ,hives1 and shall use no other hive in future4 ,a lady bought a swarm of ,italian bees of me in #ahgd1 and from that one stock she increased to over twenty the third season1 besides obtaining over one hundred pounds of nice surplus honey from the swarm ,i sent her in the first season4 ,here ,i desire to be clearly understood4 ,i do not wish to hold out inducements which will never be realized1 for the purpose of causing any one to commence bee keeping with unreasonable expectations of profit4 ,there is labor and care required to bring success in any enterprise2 and usually the greater the care and labor bestowed on any business1 the greater the reward in profits4 ,bees give ample return for each little care and attention bestowed upon them2 and if neglected and permitted to go uncared for1 there is corresponding loss4 ,i believe that bee keeping on correct and scientific principles should be encouraged1 until bees enough are kept to collect the honey now allowed to go to waste1 and which1 if collected1 would add millions of dollars to the wealth of the country4 ,the statements of large yields of honey here presented1 show what it is possible to do2 yet no reasonable person would commence bee keeping with the expectation of realizing1 on each of a dozen or more stocks kept1 the large yields above specified4 ,some stocks will pay a much greater profit than others4 ,and it is only under the most favorable circumstances1 with our very best stocks1 that we secure the results here named1 such as three hundred and eighty pounds of box honey from one stock in a season ,this serves to illustrate what may be derived 7but not what we may reasonably expect7 from each stock1 where a dozen or more stocks are kept4 ,two hundred pounds from each stock on the average is about right4 ,and this last is only secured with good care and attention1 perseverance and labor1 judiciously applied to the work4 ,the question is often asked3 ,how many stocks of bees can be kept in one place on your plan8 ,this depends on the number of honey-yielding plants and flowers4 ,some localities furnish a much greater number than others4 ,in some localities1 fifty stocks would do well1 and pay yearly a handsome profit2 in others1 it would not be profitable to keep half as many4 ,i am in a place said to be very unfavorable to bee keeping4 ,i find twelve stocks about the right number for me to maintain4 ,bees will go seven miles or more to collect honey1 but the shorter the distance1 the more honey will be collected1 in a season2 consequently the greater profit will follow4 ,it can only be learned by practical test how many stocks of bees may be profitably kept in any locality4 ,commence with a few1 and increase the number moderately1 until you find you have as many as you wish to keep1 or as many as the locality will support1 with good profit1 when managed judiciously4 ,illustration ,,chapter ,,xi4 ,,changing ,,old ,,queens ,,for ,,young ,,ones4 ,,on my plan of bee management1 if a stock does not change its queen for three years in succession1 the fourth season the old queen should be taken away1 if she shows the least sign of failing1 and a young1 laying queen substituted in her place ,it often happens1 if the queen in a stock dies or becomes seriously injured1 that the bees will1 of their own accord1 rear another to take her place4 ,but if her failure has been gradual1 the bees may not have the means to do so1 when she at last fails entirely1 for the reason that she may cease laying1 for several days or weeks previous to her death1 in which case it would be impossible for the bees1 without assistance1 to rear another queen to take her place4 ,they must have an egg not over five days old1 from which to rear a queen4 ,the great necessity of close observation1 in order to keep each stock always supplied with a healthy1 prolific queen1 cannot be impressed too strongly on the mind of every bee keeper4 ,be sure not to neglect this very important point in successful and profitable bee keeping4 ,but very few seem to know the average duration of life of the honey bee4 ,the average term of life of the worker is only a few months--not more than from two to four--a great many do not live out half that time4 ,so it will be seen that it is only by keeping healthy and prolific queens in each stock1 that we can have populous stocks1 such as will pay a good profit4 ,in my experiments ,i have in several instances taken from a vigorous and very populous stock their queen1 and at the same time deprived them of the means of rearing another4 ,this was done in the honey season4 ,in such cases the bees kept on with their labor1 though with visible reluctance and an appearance of discouragement1 the number of bees decreasing very rapidly1 and in from two to three months nearly all had disappeared1 not more than two or three hundred remaining1 where there had been from thirty thousand to fifty thousand all in a prosperous condition4 ,other instances have come under my observation1 clearly showing that the life of the worker honey bee is only of few months duration4 ,one case in fact will show3 ,i removed the native queen from a very strong stock of native or black bees1 in the honey season1 and introduced an ,italian queen1 in order to change the stock from native to ,italian4 ,the reader will readily understand that every egg deposited by the ,italian queen1 after her introduction1 will produce the ,italian variety1 the workers of which are entirely distinct in color from the natives4 ,in a few days after the introduction of the ,italian queen ,i found the natives were disappearing1 and soon after the ,italians began to appear4 ,the change was very rapid4 ,in about two months not a native or black bee could be found about the hive--all were ,italians4 ,the natives had gradually decreased1 until all had disappeared1 showing conclusively that they had died in the same ratio that they would have passed away from a stock naturally4 ,during the winter season1 as the bee is in a dormant state for the greater part of the time1 they are given a longer lease of life4 ,when it is discovered that a stock has a barren queen or has lost its queen1 or from any cause she has ceased to be prolific 7and in consequence the bees are dwindling away17 take means immediately to substitute a prolific and healthy queen in her place1 and at the same time re-enforce the stock1 by taking one or more frames filled with hatching brood from a populous stock1 and exchanging for those destitute of brood4 ,in this manner the bees will be increased so as to insure safety for a few days1 after which the stock1 having been furnished with a prolific1 healthy queen1 will regain their former prosperity and vigor4 ,the queen being the mother of the entire swarm1 and consequently all increase being dependent on her1 every intelligent bee keeper will readily understand that in order to succeed1 he must be sure that each stock has a prolific queen4 ,illustration ,,chapter ,,xii4 ,,rearing ,,and ,,introducing ,,queens4 ,,in commencing to rear queens1 you will first want some small rearing boxes1 or miniature hives1 about four and one-half inches wide1 by eight inches long1 and five inches deep1 inside measurement4 ,use inch board for the hives4 ,make for each hive three movable comb frames1#h suspended the same as in the brood section of the ,controllable ,hive4 ,make the under side of the top bar1 flat1 instead of triangular1 as in the large comb frames4 ,take a piece of old comb1 and cut to fill each one of these small frames4 ,take from a pint to a quart of bees from a populous stock 7in the height of the breeding season this will do no harm7 without the queen-4 ,confine these bees in a light box1 in the top of which there is an inch hole1 closed1 to confine them to the box1 for if not confined they would return to the old stock1 as the queen is not with them4 ,having secured your bees in the box1 go to a stock1 and lift out a comb containing eggs1 just deposited4 ,they may be known by their appearance4 ,they are but a tiny speck at the bottom of the cell1 about one-sixteenth of an inch in length1 slightly curved1 and perfectly white in color4 ,they remain in this form from two to three days1 at the end of which time they change to the form of a grub or maggot4 ,after this change it is a risk to depend on them for queen raising1 so be sure to secure for your purpose eggs4 ,cut from the brood comb a piece about two inches long and one-half inch wide1 using a very sharp1 thin knife1 so not to mutilate the comb4 ,cut out a piece from the center comb of the miniature hive1 and fit in its place the piece containing the eggs4 ,the middle of a warm day is the best time to do this work4 ,it is best to have one of the comb frames of the miniature hive filled with honey1 to furnish food for the bees for a few days4 ,footnote #h3 ,this frame is shown in the engraving representing the different kinds of cells1 in ,chapter ,i4 ,as soon as you have fitted the piece containing the eggs in its place in the miniature hive1 put on a close-fitting cover4 ,do not nail it1 as you will want to look at it every few days4 ,close the entrances to the miniature hive1 so no bees can escape4 ,now open the hole in the top of the box in which the bees are confined1 and set the miniature hive containing the eggs over it quickly1 allowing no bees to escape4 ,the bees will then pass from the box up into the miniature hive1 cluster on the comb containing the eggs1 and immediately commence the rearing of queens from the eggs thus furnished them4 ,keep the bees confined to the miniature hive for about thirty-six hours4 ,give them their liberty at first about one hour before sunset4 ,if you do not confine them for the time stated1 they will return to the hive from which you took them1 but if so confined1 they will forget their old home1 and adhere to the miniature hive1 the same as an ordinary swarm hived in the usual way4 ,they will rear queens from the eggs given them by constructing queen cells1 so arranged as to take in one of the eggs in the piece of comb furnished them1 often constructing three or more cells4 ,in about six days1 open the miniature hive1 and you will find these cells nearly or quite finished4 ,occasionally a case occurs where they do not rear queens when thus furnished with the means1 but such cases are rare4 ,if you find each one made separate1 you can1 if you choose1 with a sharp1 thin knife cut out all the cells but one1 and give them to other rearing boxes not supplied with eggs1 or which have failed to rear queens from the eggs furnished them4 ,if you leave all the cells in the miniature hive as constructed1 the first queen that hatches will destroy all the others4 ,she will visit each cell1 gnaw an opening in the side1 curve her abdomen and insert her sting into the opening1 and sting the rival queen to death while yet in her cradle4 ,the worker bees will then enlarge the opening1 and drag out the lifeless body4 ,the victorious queen now reigns over the little colony1 the same as in a large and natural swarm4 ,in from three to five days after hatching1 if the weather is fine1 the young queen will leave the miniature hive1 and take a flight in the open air1 to meet the drone for the purpose of fecundation4 ,if successful1 she will commence to lay in about two days4 ,she may then be introduced to a full stock at any time desired4 ,recollect1 it will be useless to rear queens where there are no drones4 ,when stocks are liberally fed early in the season1 drones will appear correspondingly early4 ,and if from a stock well supplied with drones1 you remove the queen1 the workers will not destroy the drones in that hive until they have obtained another fertile laying queen4 ,with this idea in view1 viz3--early and liberal feeding to produce drones early1 and depriving a populous stock 7well supplied with drones7 of its queen the last of the season1 we can have drones sufficient for our purpose from early spring until late in the fall4 ,i have in several instances1 for the purpose of securing drones very early in the spring1 deprived a populous stock1 containing a large number of drones1 of its queen1 very late in the fall1 and wintered them queenless4 ,in this manner the drones were permitted by the bees to remain and winter with the swarm4 ,early in the spring they were re-enforced with hatching brood from populous stocks1 but were permitted to rear no queens1 in order that the drones might be preserved4 ,as soon as drones appeared in the other stocks1 this stock was furnished with a laying queen1 and it was as prosperous as the best4 ,by this plan drones may be kept through the winter1 if their services are required very early in the spring1 before we can raise them from the best stocks by judicious feeding1 which very rarely can be done4 ,the bees for rearing queens are usually obtained from populous hives1 such as will hardly miss a pint or a quart from their numbers1 great care being exercised not to remove the queen4 ,the best time to get the bees is in the middle of the day4 ,go to a stock and first find the queen4 ,set the comb she is on1 to one side4 ,put your light box 7prepared as before described with a hole in the top7 on a sheet near by1 with one edge raised an inch4 ,take one or more combs from the hive 7being careful not to get the one with the queen17 and shake the bees from them1 down beside the box1 which they will readily enter4 ,when you have bees enough in the box1 close it so none can escape4 ,you now have the bees ready to put in the miniature hive1 as before directed4 ,i think ,i have given such instruction as will enable any one1 after a little practice1 to rear queens successfully4#i ,i will follow it with such information as will insure success in introducing queens into full stocks of bees4 ,footnote #i3 ,by taking brood for rearing queens only from such stocks as exhibit the greatest industry1 mildness of disposition1 vigor in withstanding the cold1 etc41 ,i find lam able to greatly improve the desirable qualities of my bees from year to year4 ,this systematic course of treatment has produced swarms possessing very valuable characteristics4 ,it is surprising to note the difference in profits and ease of management1 between bees that have always been left to take their own course1 and such as have had their most desirable traits cultivated and improved to the greatest possible extent for a term of years4 ,the difference is almost as marked as between the savage in his native wilds1 and the most intelligent and highly educated member of society4 ,here let me caution bee keepers never to attempt to introduce a queen into a full stock of bees1 until she has begun to lay4 ,a young queen1 not fecundated1 will be destroyed in nine cases out of ten1 in spite of every precaution4 ,before introducing a queen1 the old queen in the stock1 if any exists1 must be taken away4 ,make your search for her in the middle of the day1 as at that time most of the workers are away4 ,use but very little smoke1 and that only at the entrance1 as the bees should remain spread over the combs as evenly as possible4 ,if you use much smoke they will rush to the bottom and the corners of the hive1 and it is very likely the queen might seek a hiding-place with the others1 where you could not find her4 ,if not disturbed1 the queen will be found in the comb among the bees4 ,when ready to proceed1 having smoked them lightly at the entrances 7a puff at each entrance is sufficient17 lift out the comb carefully1 avoiding any jar1 and look them over for the queen4 ,it is said the ,italian queens are more readily found than the natives1 but ,i could never see any difference4 ,hold the frame up in front of your face1 so as to have a good view1 and look each comb over carefully till you find the queen4 ,when found1 remove her4 ,always return the combs so they will occupy the same position as before4 ,as soon as the queen is removed1 and the bees are aware of their loss1 they will usually commence to rear another queen from the worker eggs to take her place4 ,to make a sure thing of it1 they often start to produce a half-dozen or more4 ,in six days after removing the queen1 smoke the bees well1 to get the combs as clear of them as possible4 ,do this in the middle of the day4 ,when you have driven the most of the bees from the comb to the bottom and into the corners of the hives1 lift out the combs1 and look sharply for queen cells1 7success depends on thorough work here47 ,with a sharp knife cut out and destroy every such cell that is finished or commenced4 ,don't leave any part of a queen cell in the hive1 for the bees will not accept a strange queen if they have the means of raising one of their own4 ,having destroyed every queen cell1 finished or unfinished1 return the combs to the hive2 but before putting the honey board over the brood section1 cut a hole in it a little smaller than the top of a tumbler4 ,cover this hole with a light piece of board1 simply laid on1 7not nailed1 for you will need to remove it without jar47 ,then put the honey board in its place over the brood section4 ,let the hive remain until near sunset1 for the bees to get quiet1 and to learn that they are without a queen and without the means of rearing another4 ,just before sunset1 take the queen you propose to introduce1 and with her a score or more of workers1 and put them in a tumbler with a piece of wire cloth over the top to keep them in4 7,to get her from the miniature hive1 where she was reared1 to the tumbler1 take it to a close room1 before a window1 so if she takes wing she may alight there47 ,go to the hive into which she is to be introduced1 and remove the cap1 avoiding any jar that may irritate the bees4 ,take off the board over the hole in the honey board1 and turn the tumbler containing the queen bottom up over it1 keeping the wire cloth between the queen in the tumbler and the bees in the hive4 ,replace the cap to the hive1 and let the queen and her attendant bees remain in the tumbler1 in communication with the bees in the hive through the wire cloth1 until the next day1 near sunset4 ,then take a teaspoonful of honey1 go to the hive1 and remove the cap1 this time with the greatest possible care1 as the slightest jar will endanger success4 ,raise the tumbler carefully from off the queen1 and with the honey smear her completely over1 then turn the wire cloth over carefully1 and let the queen and her attendant bees down through the hole in the honey board1 among the bees of the hive4 ,replace the cap as quietly as possible1 and the work is done4 ,in about one week examine the combs of this hive for eggs1 and if they are found1 you can consider your work crowned with success4 ,if no eggs are discovered1 you must go over the ground again4 ,but be sure there are no eggs in the combs before you repeat the work4 ,this plan of introducing queens is the most successful of any ,i have ever tested4 ,it rarely fails4 ,when a laying queen is removed from one of the miniature hives1 the bees will usually rear queens from the eggs left when the queen is removed4 ,illustration ,,chapter ,,xiii4 ,,sources ,,of ,,honey4 ,,the sources from which bees collect honey are various and almost innumerable4 ,almost every flower1 tree1 plant1 shrub and vine1 in field1 forest1 pasture and garden yield honey to some extent4 ,white clover1 is1 perhaps1 the greatest source of honey in the ,new ,england and ,middle ,states1 it being found to a greater or less extent in almost every field and pasture4 ,south and west there is1 in many localities1 a profusion of wild flowers1 producing considerable quantities of honey4 ,in some sections buckwheat affords a rich harvest4 ,basswood yields a very nice quality of honey1 and in sections where it abounds1 great quantities are collected from it4 ,fruit blossoms--apple1 pear1 peach1 and all the different varieties of plums1 cherries1 etc41 are very important sources of honey4 ,pollen is the first material gathered by the bees in early spring4 ,several varieties of alder1 willow1 red maple1 etc41 produce pollen in great abundance4 ,raspberry1 blackberry1 catnip1 dandelion1 etc41 all contribute largely of honey in their season4 ,corn1 and most kinds of grain1 furnish pollen in abundance late in the season4 ,mustard and sweet clover are great favorites with the busy bee1 yielding the most beautiful honey1 clear as crystal and white as snow4 ,the sugar maple produces honey of excellent quality1 and where forests of this tree abound1 large quantities of honey are stored1 while it is in blossom in early spring4#aj ,locust1 whitewood1 mignonette1 golden rod1 sumach1 etc41 all produce honey4 ,when we take into consideration the fact that the bee will go seven miles or more to collect his sweets1 it is easy to understand that a certain number of swarms will succeed in almost any locality1 even without feeding4 ,to make this still more clear1 we have only to take into account the vast number of honey yielding flowers1 trees1 plants1 shrubs1 etc41 within a circle of fourteen miles in diameter1 the hives occupying the center1 and the bees flying to collect honey seven miles in every direction from the hive4 ,those who have not tested the matter1 will be likely to dispute the statement1 that a bee will go seven miles to gather honey4 ,but on this point ,i am able to offer ample proof1 to establish1 beyond a reasonable doubt1 the fact that the ,italian bee will go that distance4 ,the proof ,i offer is this3 ,the first ,italian bees brought into the ,new ,england ,states1 ,i had the honor of receiving4 ,the ,italian bees being entirely distinct from the native or black bees in color and size1 ,i determined to avail myself of the opportunity offered to satisfy myself on the long-disputed question--,how far a bee will go to collect honey4 ,i therefore made close and repeated examinations1 at different times during the honey season1 and it was no uncommon occurrence1 to find the ,italian workers seven miles from their hives4 ,as there were no ,italian bees except mine within hundreds of miles1 ,i considered this positive proof that that variety will travel seven miles from its hive in its search for honey-producing flowers4 ,as the native or black bee is1 to some extent1 found in all parts of the country1 it is impossible to prove conclusively the distance they will go from the hive2 yet my observations give very strong evidence that they journey five miles or more after honey4 ,footnote #aj3 ,climate and soil are so variable1 it is impossible to give the sources of honey so as to apply minutely to every locality4 ,i shall strive to designate the principal sources4 ,the bee keeper will very soon learn from experience and observation1 what are the principal sources of honey in that particular locality4 ,many different flowers1 trees and shrubs are found in one section yielding honey profusely which do not exist in another4 ,when the distance a bee will go for honey is so well established1 and having found from repeated tests that the flowers1 when yielding honey1 may be visited many times each day by the bee1 and yield at each visit a bountiful supply1 we can form some idea of the vast amount of honey now permitted to go to waste1 which might be collected by bees and stored in nice boxes1 and thus add wealth and enjoyment to the human family4 ,the bee keeper sometimes finds his bees idle1 when the flowers are in bloom in profusion1 the sun shining brightly1 and1 to the superficial observer1 everything indicating honey in abundance4 ,and yet the bees are dormant1 and scarcely a one flying about the hives1 notwithstanding the hives and boxes are full of them4 ,the truth of the matter is1 there is no honey in the flowers1 although they are in full bloom4 ,the air is dry and clear4 ,suddenly there is a change1 the atmosphere becomes moist and charged with electricity1 with occasionally light showers4 ,immediately all is activity about the hives4 ,the greatest show of industry is manifested2 scores of workers1 and in some cases a hundred1 coming into each hive every minute1 loaded with honey1 many of them so heavily weighted that they fall to the ground before they reach the hive1 where they rest a moment1 and then try again1 usually succeeding in entering with their load4 ,i have seen a change1 as here described1 brought about in a half-hour's time in the middle of the day1 viz3 ,the bees pass from an idle1 almost entirely dormant state1 to the greatest activity and industry4 ,and all because a change in the atmosphere had caused the flowers to secrete honey4 ,the question arises4 ,how did the bees know at that particular hour there was a change1 and that the flowers1 which a few minutes before were destitute of honey1 were now bountifully supplied8 ,i answer1 the bee was aware of the change almost the moment it took place4 ,the bee is very sensitive to all atmospheric changes4 ,a case in point will show this3 ,the bees are collecting honey abroad in the fields4 ,the day is warm and balmy4 ,suddenly there is the appearance of a shower1 and distant thunder is heard4 ,immediately the bees came rushing in from the fields1 in clouds4 ,they cover the entire front of their hives1 in their eagerness to gain a shelter from the approaching rain4 ,again1 if the morning is cloudy and dark1 with every appearance of rain1 and you find the bees leaving their hives for the fields1 you may be quite certain that rain is not near1 and may expect soon to see the sun break forth and the clouds disperse4 ,if1 on the other hand there is an appearance of rain1 and the bees are quiet in their hives1 it is quite sure to rain in a very short time4 ,how wonderful are the workings of nature4 ,how great the sagacity of the little1 busy bee4 ,who dares say that this wonderful little insect does not possess the power of reasons8 ,but ,i am digressing from the subject4 ,bees1 in their journeys to collect honey1 seldom visit more than one species of flower1 plant or shrub1 at one excursion2 and this is a wise provision of nature1 for were it otherwise1 and any and all species visited promiscuously1 the vegetable world would be thrown into chaos1 by the fertilizing dust of one species being imparted to another1 through the medium of the bee4 ,pollen as fast as collected is deposited in little basket-like cavities on the inside of the bee's posterior legs4 ,it is packed in little pellets1 varying in size from that of a pin's head to a small pea4 ,in color it is usually yellow1 but sometimes green or red4 ,hundreds of bees may be seen entering the hives with pollen at almost any time in the honey season1 particularly in the morning before the dew is off the grass4 ,it is easier for the bees to collect it at this time1 as the moisture causes it the more readily to adhere to the cavities of the legs4 ,honey when collected is deposited in the stomach of the bee1 in which it is borne to the hive1 and there deposited in cells in the comb4 ,the bee has the power of raising this honey from its stomach1 in the same manner that all ruminating animals raise the cud4 ,some have contended that bees cause an injury to all kinds of fruit1 such as apples1 peaches1 plums1 etc41 by taking away the substance and sweetness1 in the form of honey1 which otherwise would be absorbed1 and eaten with the fruit4 ,this is a great mistake4 ,the provisions of nature are wise in this respect as in all others4 ,there is the strongest evidence to prove that honey1 once secreted in the cups of the tiny blossoms1 never returns to the flower or fruit1 but evaporates and passes into the air4 ,who1 in passing an apple or peach orchard in full bloom1 has not noticed the delicious fragrance2 which is undoubtedly honey which has evaporated from the myriads of blossoms4 ,it is very plain to the close observer that nature has placed in the cups of flowers this honey1 expressly as food for the honey bee1 and that it is in harmony with all her great and wonderful works4 ,,chapter ,,xiv4 ,,location ,,of ,,hives4 ,,in locating your hives1 place them on the south side of buildings1 or a close board fence facing south1 south-east or south-west4 ,if possible1 locate in the shade of some trees1 where they ,will be shaded from the sun from nine o'clock in the forenoon until one in the afternoon1 or a little later4 ,if no trees afford shade1 arrange a roof over each hive1 which shall shade the entire hive1 and especially the front1 in the summer season4 ,but in spring and fall it is better to let the bees have the full benefit of the sun's rays1 shining directly upon the hive4 ,construct a separate stand for each hive1 as follows3 ,cut boards about three feet long1 and joists three by six inches square 7two pieces of the latter two feet long27 nail the ends of the boards to these pieces1 so as to form a stand1 when placed on the ground1 three feet long1 two feet wide and six inches high4 ,this gives a free circulation of air beneath the stand4 ,set your hive on this stand1 the rear of the hive even with the rear of the stand1 which leaves the stand projecting a foot or more in front1 making an admirable place for the bees to alight before entering the hive4 ,set your stands three feet apart1 and make them perfectly level before placing your hive upon them4 ,place an alighting board in front of each hive4 ,get a board about eighteen inches wide and two feet long4 ,nail on some cleats at each end1 to prevent warping4 ,rest one edge of this board on the ground1 the other edge on the end of the platform in front of the hive4 ,by this arrangement many bees will be saved in early spring which would otherwise be lost4 ,by the old plan of setting the hives two or three feet high1 with no alighting board1 and a free draught of wind beneath1 the loss of bees was very great1 especially in the early spring months1 on chilly afternoons following a very warm forenoon4 ,the bees1 returning loaded with pollen1 are unable to reach a hive placed so high1 and are blown to the earth by the hundreds1 and becoming chilled1 die4 ,the death of a few bees is a great loss in early spring1 for they are required in keeping up the animal heat in the hive to forward breeding4 ,the location of bees as here recommended will be found greatly superior to any other1 for other reasons than those mentioned1 and which are too numerous to herein specify4 ,every one who commences bee keeping should ever remember1 that bees always mark the location of their hives4 ,the young bee the first time it leaves the hive invariably does this4 ,the same is true with all swarms1 in the first flight in early spring1 after being dormant in the hive through the winter months4 ,in marking the location1 the bee comes from the hive1 and at the entrance rises on the wing4 ,turning its head toward the hive1 it recedes in circles1 backward1 at first describing a circle so small as to be scarcely perceptible1 but enlarging as the distance from the hive is increased4 ,they thus take into view all objects surrounding the hive1 so that they are able to return to their own hives without difficulty4 ,after one or two excursions begun in this manner1 the bee leaves the hive in a direct line for the fields1 without taking any further precaution whatever1 and returns by its knowledge of the objects in the vicinity of the hives1 without difficulty4 ,notwithstanding there might be a hundred hives standing in a line1 with only a few inches space between each1 and all of the same color and appearance1 if left to itself no bee would enter the hive of its neighbor1 although there might be hundreds of thousands of the busy workers1 from all the hives1 dying promiscuously about in the air4 ,each bee knows its own hive perfectly1 and if from any accident it enters its neighbor's house1 immediate death is usually the result2 or possibly it may escape1 after being roughly handled1 and made to understand that it is trespassing on forbidden ground4 ,some bee keepers1 with little knowledge of their occupation1 often remove a hive of bees several rods1 in the working season4 ,the result is1 all the bees that had marked the location 7and all the old bees had done this7 are lost4 ,they would continue to leave the hive in a direct line1 after its removal1 not taking the precaution to mark the location1 as they were unaware of the change1 and when they were ready to return1 they would return to the former place4 ,bees may be safely moved a dozen miles or more1 at any time1 as this takes them beyond their knowledge of country2 but in such cases set the hives six feet apart at least4 ,if this precaution is not taken and the hives are set close together1 the bees will rush from the hives on being let out1 not knowing the location has been changed1 and when they return1 many will enter the wrong hive1 and be slaughtered without mercy4 ,therefore1 let stocks be placed1 early in the spring1 before they have marked the situation of the stands they are to occupy for the summer1 and not change them after the bees have commenced their labors--at least change them no less distance than twelve miles4 ,,chapter ,,xv4 ,,wintering ,,bees4 ,,the subject of wintering bees is of the greatest importance1 and one which is generally very imperfectly understood1 if we may judge from the large number of swarms lost every winter and spring4 ,there are many methods recommended as the best for wintering bees4 ,one will tell you to keep them cold2 another to keep them warm4 ,one will say1 put them in the cellar2 another1 bury them in the ground2 another put them in the attic4 ,is it any wonder that the beginner becomes confused and disgusted at so much conflicting advice8 ,that bees have been wintered safely by any and all of these old plans ,i shall not dispute4 ,but ,i am certain that neither plan will1 alone1 prove successful in the majority of cases4 ,by all the methods heretofore recommended1 a large number of bees die from each stock1 during the winter2 so reducing them in numbers that it takes nearly the entire summer for them to regain in numbers what they have lost2 while a very large number of stocks are lost entirely4 ,it will be readily understood that the greater the number of bees in a hive in early spring1 the more warmth will be generated2 consequently the more rapidly will the brood mature and the bees increase in numbers4 ,it is of the greatest importance to have strong stocks in early spring ,this is one of the strong points of the new system of management1 taught in this book4 ,in nearly all the hives now in use1 there is no proper ventilation1 consequently the honey in such hives becomes sour1 the comb mouldy1 and the bees diseased4 ,it is impossible1 in our variable climate1 to winter bees successfully1 for any number of years1 with any degree of certainty1 in the great majority of the ordinary hives4 ,some1 who have met with heavy losses in winter1 have taken the ground that the loss was caused by a poor quality of honey1 stored by the bees in a wet season1 or a large yield late in the fall4 ,but this is a great mistake4 ,bees will not collect and store honey not suited to their use as food2 they make no mistakes on this point4 ,i might discuss in detail all the different methods of wintering bees1 and show the great losses attending each1 with causes1 etc41 but by so doing ,i should consume more space than ,i can give in this work4 ,i shall therefore confine my remarks to ordinary conditions of bees in winter1 and the requisites to insure uniform success in wintering4 ,in the winter bees cluster as closely together as circumstances admit1 and the severity of the cold demands4 ,the more severe the cold1 the closer they cluster together1 in order the better to keep up the animal heat necessary to maintain life4 ,by all the old methods1 the cluster of bees is divided by the sheets of comb1 which is a great hindrance to successful wintering4 ,in such cases the bees cannot cluster compactly together1 but are spread out between the different sheets of comb4 ,in the ,controllable ,hive1 and on the plan of wintering here recommended1 the bees in very cold weather cluster in the space between the wire cloth of the ventilator and the top of the frames of the brood section4 ,they are here able to keep up the required amount of animal heat1 as they can cluster compactly1 without anything to separate them4 ,by the ordinary plan1 in sudden turns of very cold weather1 the bees between the outer combs are often frozen to death4 ,oh6 says some one1 that's all humbug2 you can't freeze a bee4 ,certainly you can4 ,to satisfy yourself of this1 after a very cold turn of weather1 look under your box hives1 if you have them1 or any patent hive having a loose bottom board to admit of an examination1 and see if you do not find hundreds of bees which have fallen dead from the outside combs4 ,i have examined hundreds of stocks1 and found them as here described4 ,if you don't believe a bee will freeze1 take out a dozen from a hive1 in a severely cold spell of weather in mid-winter1 confine them in a box1 and set them out doors1 letting them remain only one night4 ,see if they are not dead beyond resuscitation1 the next morning4 ,this notion that bees will not freeze is a great mistake1 and has led to some very foolish experiments in wintering them4 ,a swarm of bees of average size1 put in proper condition for winter1 will not freeze2 but from this it does not follow that a bee is proof against the greatest possible degree of cold4 ,when bees are prepared for winter1 as herein directed1 they will1 as before stated1 cluster compactly together4 ,and as the cold increases the cluster will contract1 in accordance with the increasing of the cold1 and consequently no loss of bees occur4 ,another great cause of loss in winter is in proper ventilation1 or no ventilation at all4 ,every swarm of bees throws off a considerable amount of moisture from their bodies4 ,in very cold weather1 if the hive is not properly ventilated1 this moisture collects on the combs at the sides and top of the hives1 in the form of frost and ice4 ,in moderate weather this frost and ice melts1 and runs down into the hive1 completing saturating the bees1 and then1 if a sudden change to extremely cold weather takes place1 all are destroyed by freezing2 or if they chance to survive the winter1 the moisture causes the combs to mould1 the honey becomes sour1 and thin like water1 rendering it unsuitable food for the bee1 and bringing on diseases--dysentery1 bee cholera1 foul brood1 etc41 and in a short time the bees are all destroyed4 ,thousands of good swarms are lost every winter by improper management1 and from being kept in hives not suitable for wintering4 ,i give directions for wintering on my plan1 in ,controllable ,hives1 and ,i feel confident1 if directions are carefully followed1 that many stocks will be saved annually1 which otherwise would have perished4 ,how to ,winter ,bees in ,controllable ,hives4 ,bees are wintered in ,controllable ,hives on their summer stands1 by my plan1 without loss1 by maintaining an even temperature in the brood section1 and disposing of all moisture or perspiration thrown off by the bees in cold weather4 ,i have never lost a swarm of bees in ,controllable ,hives in the winter4 ,i attempt to winter none1 except strong1 healthy stocks4 ,i have no mouldy combs1 no sour honey4 ,the combs are kept perfectly dry1 and the hives in a healthy condition4 ,i do not lose a teacupful of bees1 on the average1 from each of my hives during the winter4 ,to winter in ,controllable ,hives1 prepare as follows3 ,at the commencement of steady cold weather1 which1 in the ,new ,england ,states1 is usually near the close of ,november1 put the bees in condition to winter by entirely closing the upper entrance to the hive1 and the lower one shut up about one-half4#aa ,take out the box frames at the sides of the brood section1 and put the movable partitions in place4 ,remove the boxes and feeder1 or honey board1 7whichever is in place7 from over the brood section4 ,place the ventilator 7described elsewhere7 over the brood section1 so the lower edge of the ventilator1 at the sides1 will rest on the upper edges of the movable partitions1 on each side of the brood section4 ,pack the sides of the hive 7that part occupied by the side boxes in summer17 closely with very line hay or straw4 ,pack the cap as full of the same matter as it can be crowded4 ,then put the thickness of one or two inches over the ventilator1 filling up evenly1 so when the cap is placed ever the upper part1 the cap and sides will be compactly filled4 ,there must be no spaces left unfilled1 the object being to secure an even temperature in the brood section1 and absorb all moisture thrown off by the bees2 and to do this successfully1 the cap and sides must be closely packed throughout4 ,when you have the cap and sides well packed1 replace the cap1 and the work is done4 ,shade the front of the hives during the winter months4 ,no matter if the snow drifts over the hive so as to completely bury it from sight1 let it remain2--your bees are safe4 ,footnote #aa3 ,to secure a slight upward draught of air1 to carry off the moisture arising from the bees1 make a hole a half-inch in diameter in front and rear of the cap1 in the center1 close to the top or roof boards4 7,and here let me say1 the roof boards1 or boards covering the cap1 should project about an inch1 as they can be more firmly nailed1 and make better joints2 for driving rains must not be allowed to penetrate to the inside of the hive47 ,the inside of each hole should be covered with wire cloth1 to keep out insects1 etc4 ,a neighbor of mine had fifteen stocks in ,controllable ,hives completely buried in snow over six feet deep1 and the crust formed over them so it would bear a horse4 ,they remained under the snow from ,january until ,april1 when they thawed out1 and every stock was found to be in first-class order4 ,when there is only a small quantity of snow about the hive1 say only enough to cover the lower entrance1 and there should come a very warm spell of weather1 which would bring the bees out1 be sure to clear away the snow so they need not be kept back by it4 ,but it will take an exceedingly warm day in winter to rouse the bees from their dormant state in the ,controllable ,hive1 and bring them out for a turn in the open air4 ,if the air is warm enough to induce them to come out1 it is always warm enough for them to fly briskly4 ,in this respect there is a great contrast between my hive and others4 ,with other hives1 an hour's warm sun will bring out the bees in winter1 when the air is cold1 and the consequence is1 they fall into the snow and perish by hundreds4 ,in this way stocks are often reduced in numbers until all are lost4 ,the dysentery generally attacks such stocks 7brought on by the sudden changes in temperature in the hive47 and hastens their destruction1 by causing them to leave the hive1 when they would not do so if in a healthy condition4 ,bees1 when wintered in ,controllable ,hives as directed1 will come out in the spring1 strong in numbers1 and in a healthy condition--in great contrast to the weak and diseased stocks which have been wintered in the ordinary manner4 ,i have perfect confidence in the method of wintering here recommended1 for ,i have had it in practical use for many years1 and have never lost a stock1 notwithstanding some winters have been very destructive to bees in this section1 some1 who practice the old methods1 losing their entire stocks4 ,i learn from my correspondents in all parts of the ,united ,states that there is great loss of bees in winter2 so great in fact as to discourage many from attempting to engage in apiculture4 ,my plan of wintering is very simple1 and commends itself to every intelligent person4 ,in a few words it may be expressed thus3 ,the brood section is secured against the effects of sudden changes in the weather1 7this keeps the bees dormant throughout the winter season1 which is as nature designed17 and provides for the absorption of all moisture and perspiration arising from the bees1 white in a dormant slate4 ,these two points are the foundation of successful wintering4 ,illustration ,,chapter ,,xvi4 ,,transferring ,,bees4 ,,as some of my readers may have bees in ordinary hives1 which they would like to transfer to the ,controllable ,hive1 ,i will devote a chapter to ,transferring4 ,if you have bees in a box or patent hive1 or any of the thousand and one bee hive humbugs1 which are of little or no profit1 and cause you much trouble and perplexity in swarming time1 and frequent and heavy losses in winter1 you can move them into ,controllable ,hives--comb1 honey and bees together--and manage them on the plan here recommended1 and they will winter well1 come out strong and healthy in the spring1 and cause comparatively no trouble in swarming time1 yielding you a good profit yearly4 ,the best time to transfer is as early in spring as the weather becomes warm enough to keep the bees active every day1 which1 in the ,new ,england ,states1 is usually in ,april4 ,it is a good time to transfer about twenty-four days after the first swarm issues from a stock1 as at that time there is but little brood1 and usually but few bees4 ,october is a very good time to transfer1 but not as good as either of the times before mentioned4 ,great care is required to prevent robbing1 and also to have the comb frames all filled with combs1 and in good position for the bees to winter4 ,as cold weather is so close at hand1 the bees will have but little time to arrange for winter4 ,in transferring1 construct the ,controllable ,hive as directed1 with exception of the comb frames1 from which leave off the triangular piece1 as the comb can be better fitted to a flat surface4 ,make several holes one-fourth inch in diameter through the top1 bottom and ends of frames1 and a like number of sharp wooden pins about two inches long to fit these holes4 ,early in the morning1 before the bees begin to fly1 prepare your smoker1 go to the hive you propose to transfer1 and before you touch it1 smoke the bees at the entrances moderately1 giving them two or three puffs1 waiting about a minute and giving them two or three more4 ,then stop the entrances1 so no bees can escape4 ,take the hive from the stand and carry it to some out-building1 so the bees from the other hives will not trouble you1 and get a taste of the honey1 thereby inciting them to robbery4 ,turn the hive bottom up1 and with two sticks1 each about a half-inch in diameter and twelve inches long1 strike the hive lightly half a dozen times1 and then wait for two or three minutes4 ,then with the sticks on each side of the hive drum briskly 7but lightly1 so not to break the comb17 for about five minutes4 ,then puff smoke under the bottom board on all sides4 ,much of this preliminary work is for the purpose of confusing the bees1 and inducing them to fill themselves with honey from the cells of the hive1 as a bee gorged with honey will never volunteer an attack for the purpose of stinging4 ,the bees are now ready to be transferred4 ,you will need some one to assist you1 and it will be necessary for you to put on your articles of protection1 and keep your smoker in readiness for use1 as occasionally a swarm is bard to subdue1 though the great majority of them are perfectly docile after the treatment recommended4 ,but we are to beard the lion in his den1 and to be forewarned is to be forearmed4 ,the bees usually manifest their submission by a loud humming noise4 ,if after you commence operations 7before you get the side of the hive off7 they show a disposition to be cross1 replace the bottom board1 close the entrances1 if open1 and give the insects a good smoking1 at the entrances1 and by raising the bottom board enough to introduce the smoke2 give them the smoke freely for several minutes4 ,then again remove the bottom board4 7,these directions apply to the common box hive4 ,if hives of a different pattern are operated upon1 vary the operation to conform to the requirements of the case1 applying the same principles47 ,then with a chisel and hammer remove one side of the hive 7the side to which the bees have attached the least comb17 and with a thin1 sharp table-knife1 cut the edges of the comb from the sides of the hive4 ,it is well to have a table or stand near by1 with a cloth folded in several thicknesses1 on which to lay the sheets of comb with the bees adhering1 if necessary4 ,the cloth prevents crushing4 ,cut out a comb from the hive with the bees adhering1 and cut off the edges1 if required1 so it will fit the new frame closely at the top and bottom4 ,no matter if it does not go the whole length of the frame from front to rear1 as the bees will finish it4#ab ,have the comb occupy the same position1 relatively1 in the new hive1 that it did in the old4 ,when the comb is in place in the frame1 secure it by putting the wooden pins through the holes in the frames into the combs1 and having fastened it firmly in place by means of the pins1 place it in the ,controllable ,hive in its proper position4 ,footnote #ab3 ,but very few hives are large enough for their combs to fill the movable comb frames of the ,controllable ,hive4 ,tims proceed1 till all the frames of the ,controllable ,hive are filled1 or the comb in the old hive is exhausted4 ,in transferring1 very old1 black combs should be discarded even if you do not have your new hive more than half full4 ,get all the bees1 it possible1 in the new hive1 and when you set it on the stand1 close the lower entrance entirely1 and let the upper one remain only one-half open1 for a few days1 until the bees get well located in their new home4 ,be careful not to crush any of the bees1 and take special care not to injure the queen4 ,as you will probably complete the operation of transferring at about the time that bees will be flying briskly about the other hives1 it will be better to put wire cloth over the entrances1 to confine the bees you have transferred1 and let them remain in the out-building until about an hour before sunset2 then set them on the stand and give them their liberty4 ,keeping them shut up for the time named1 gives them a chance to take up the honey which runs from the transferred combs1 and which might1 if the bees were carried immediately to the stand1 incite robbing4 ,transferring is by no means so formidable an operation as at first appears4 ,i have transferred a very large number of swarms from the old box hives1 without any protection for hands or face1 and now the bees seldom show any disposition to sting4 ,yet ,i would advise beginners to protect themselves1 until by practice they become familiar with the work4 ,practice makes perfect is an old and true saying1 and it applies to all operations with bees1 ,i assure you4 ,in my first attempts at this work ,i thought ,i must be protected1 and ,i would not for the world proceed without a protector1 and that of the most invulnerable kind4 ,now1 having had much practice1 ,i feel no necessity for any covering whatever4 ,i trust ,i have made my method of transferring perfectly plain1 so that every one who wishes may avail themselves of its advantages4 ,,chapter ,,xvii4 ,,italian ,,bees4 ,,the ,italian ,bee is a native of the ,alps1 and was first imported to this country about the year #ahfj4 ,the ,italian being a native of mountainous regions and a high latitude1 they were reported to be extremely hardy and vigorous4 ,those who were first to obtain them1 were unanimous in their praise of the ,italian bee1 and fully agreed that it was superior to our native or black bee in very many respects4 ,the good reputation which preceded the introduction of the bee to this country1 by time and experience in their care1 has been fully vindicated4 ,the pure ,italian bees are superior to the natives in the following characteristics3 ,they are more hardy and vigorous1 withstanding our severe winters1 with ordinary care1 better than the natives2 they are more industrious than the native bee1 being very active in storing honey in cool1 windy1 or cloudy weather1 such as keeps the native bees quiet in the hives4 ,the pure ,italian1 being larger and more vigorous than the natives1 go greater distances to collect honey1 and as they are larger1 they carry more at a time1 and being swifter of flight than the natives1 they go the same distance in much quicker time4 ,then1 too1 the pure ,italian bee is very beautiful1 nearly the entire body being of a golden color1 so that some of its admirers have given it the name of golden bee4 ,it is very mild in disposition1 seldom offering to sting unless unreasonably irritated4 ,they show great activity in protecting their hives from the bee moth1 even when weak in numbers4 ,they also show the same trait in defending their stores from the attacks of robber bees4 ,when the native bees have come buzzing around a hive of ,italians in search of plunder1 ,i have seen an ,italian dart from the hive like a bullet1 and seizing a native1 while on the wing1 bear him to earth and dispatch him with a sting4 ,this feat ,i never saw a native bee accomplish4 ,being larger than the natives they are able to reach the honey in the red clover1 and many other flowers not accessible to our common bees1 which makes an essential difference in the amount of honey collected4 ,rev4 ,l4 ,l4 ,langstroth says of the ,italian bees3 ,they gather more than twice as much honey in the same localities1 in the same time1 as the swarms of native bees4 ,i consider the pure ,italian ,bee a valuable and very desirable acquisition4 ,i have furnished several of my lady friends with full colonies of them in ,controllable ,hives1 and they have expressed themselves as very much pleased with their gentle disposition and great beauty4 ,i think the points of superiority here designated will be found in the pure ,italian bee4 ,very many1 who have purchased bees purporting to be ,italians1 have been grossly deceived1 having received simply a native swarm of bees1 the queen of which1 a pure native1 had been impregnated by a drone having a slight tinge of ,italian blood2 such stock was but very little1 if any1 better than a pure native swarm4 ,i find ,i can make an improvement1 even in the pure ,italian stock1 by selecting queens for rearing to supply my full stocks and with eggs and drones1 from such stocks as show the superior characteristics in the fullest degree4 ,this course persevered in for a term of years will show marked results in the improvement of the desirable points of superiority found in the ,italian bee4 ,i take great pride in my ,italian bees4 ,i believe they are as beautiful specimens of this variety as it is possible to produce1 and possessing the characteristics of superiority of the ,italians in the fullest degree4 ,the points which ,i strive to cultivate and develop fully1 are3 ,industry1 mildness of disposition1 beauty of color1 vigor of constitution1 etc4 ,i have here given in brief my views of the ,italian bee1 as ,i receive many letters of enquiry in regard to them4 ,i base my statements on practical experience4 ,i would advise all who wish to procure the ,italian bees1 to exercise great care in selecting them1 and purchase only of those who are known to have pure stocks1 for the best is the cheapest in the end1 no matter if the first cost seems high4 ,if the worth of the money is in the bees1 the higher the price paid1 the better you will be satisfied4 ,but do not pay even a low price for inferior stock1 for you will not be satisfied4 ,illustration ,illustration3 ,controllable ,hive4 ,fig4 ,i4 ,,chapter ,,xviii4 ,,construction ,,of ,,controllable ,,hives4 ,,on the opposite page is given ,figure ,i4 of a perspective view of the ,controllable ,bee ,hive1 with the measurements of its exterior parts4 ,the body of the hive is made in two parts1 ,a and ,b4 ,the lower edges of the upper part ,b rest upon the cleats ,c1 attached to the outside of the lower part of ,a1 near its upper edge--as will be seen by reference to ,figures ,i4 and ,,ii4 ,the middle board ,d of the bottom is loose1 and is held in place by hooks ,e4 ,the middle board ,f1 at the sides of the lower part ,a1 are loose1 hinged at their lower edges1 and are held in place when closed by the buttons ,g4 ,in front of the lower part ,a1 near both its lower and upper edges1 are formed slots1 or bee passages1 ,h4 ,the lower part ,a is divided longitudinally into three compartments by two movable partitions4 ,the side compartments are designed to receive the honey boxes ,j2 and the center compartment forms the brood section4 ,to the inner surfaces of the front and rear walls of the brood section are attached boards1 forming a double thickness1 to secure a more even temperature1 keeping out the heat in summer and the cold in winter4 ,the grain of the inner board runs crosswise of the outer one to prevent warping4 ,the upper edges of the inner boards are rebated out five-eighths inch square inside1 to receive the ends of the comb frames of the brood section4 ,illustration3 ,controllable ,hive4 ,fig4 ,,ii4 ,figure ,,ii4 is a perspective view of the ,controllable ,hive1 with the upper part of the case removed1 showing the position of the glass honey boxes at the top1 with the feeder ,t in the rear1 and also showing the position of the side boxes ,j1 in the large frame ,o4 as shown more clearly in ,figure ,,iii4 ,the inner ends of the side boxes ,j1 next to the brood section1 are formed of boards ,c1 narrower than the boxes1 leaving side spaces1 to allow the bees to pass in and out freely from the brood section to the side boxes4 ,when top boxes and feeder are not on1 a board called a honey board is placed over the brood section1 fitting very closely1 so as to confine the heat1 generated by the bees1 to the brood section4 ,in winter the brood section is covered by a ventilator made as follows3 ,take a piece of fine board one-half inch thick4 ,get out two pieces1 each one inch wide and twenty-two and three-eighths inches long1 and two pieces of same width each ten inches long4 ,nail the short pieces on to the ends of the long pieces1 forming a frame nine inches wide by twenty-two and three-eighths inches long1 inside measurement4 ,over this frame tack a piece of wire cloth twenty-three and three-eighths inches long1 by ten inches wide1 of a very fine mesh4 ,this frame will just fit over the brood section1 and give a space between the wire cloth and the top of the comb frames of about one and three-eighths inches4 ,tack the wire cloth on closely1 so no bees can escape when the ventilator is in place4 ,this ventilator is to be used only in winter1 as directed under the chapter on ,wintering4 ,figure ,,iii41 on next page1 is a perspective view of a set of side surplus honey boxes and their inclosing frame1 with measurements of the different parts4 ,illustration3 ,side ,surplus ,honey ,boxes4 ,fig4 ,,iii4 ,the brood section of the hive is twenty and one-half inches long1 nine inches wide and twelve inches deep1 inside measurement4 ,the brood section contains six movable comb frames1 resting on rebatings1 and held at the proper distance apart at the bottom by a brace4 ,the only plate where these frames touch the hive1 is where the top bar of the comb frames rests on the rebating at the ends4 ,to the top bar of each comb frame 7on the under side7 is nailed a triangular comb guide to aid in securing straight combs4 ,each side of the triangle is one inch wide4 ,a piece of board one inch wide and three-eighths inch thick is laid on top of the comb frames lengthwise in the centre on this piece4 ,the ends of the top boxes rest in the center where they come together4 ,notches are cut on the underside1 crosswise1 to admit of the passage of the bees4#ac ,footnote #ac3 ,i have exercised great care1 and incurred considerable expense1 in giving drawings with measurements and directions for constructing ,controllable ,hives1 glass boxes1 etc41 that such of my readers as wish may be able to construct the hives and manage bees according to the new system as taught in this work4 ,i have no time or desire to establish a business in the manufacture of hives1 but if any of my readers want a full sized ,controllable ,hive1 ready for a swarm of bees1 the better to enable them to make the ,controllable ,hive1 ,i will furnish them4 ,price eight dollars4 ,in no case will ,i furnish more than one to the same address4 ,the hive is not patent1 so any one can manufacture and use as many as they wish4 ,they can make them at their home1 especially in the winter season1 much cheaper than ,i can furnish them4 ,in the construction of hives use the best dry pine lumber1 free from ,haws or cracks1 and put on a good coat of paint to protect from the weather4 ,as the hives are to remain in the open air the year round1 the best of lumber is required1 and that to be well protected with a heavy coat of the most durable paint4 ,make close-fitting joints and nail thoroughly4 ,these hives1 if properly constructed of sound lumber1 will last many years4 ,i have had the same hive on one stand incessantly for six years1 and at the end of that time it is as good1 to all appearances1 as when first put there4 ,all who desire to construct ,controllable ,hives1 and adopt the plan of bee management recommended in this book1 can do so freely1 as there is no patent on the hive1 or any of its parts or fixtures4 ,illustration ,,chapter ,,xix4 ,,monthly ,,duties4 ,,the successful management and care of bees requires forethought and preparation for all labor and care bestowed upon them1 if we desire to bestow it at the proper time1 and in the most judicious manner4 ,i have in this chapter given only brief hints as to the work to be performed4 ,such of my readers as are located in a climate essentially differing from that of the ,new ,england ,states1 will perceive the necessity of varying their management to correspond with the difference in climate1 etc4 ,i shall repeat some of the statements already made1 in order to impress them more thoroughly upon the bee keeper4 ,the object of this chapter is to bring to the mind of the bee keeper the more important duties required in the successful use of the system recommended in this work4 ,,january4 ,we will commence with ,january as it is the first month in the year4 ,in this month construct hives1 glass honey boxes1 etc4 ,give the new hives a good coat of paint4 ,they will last longer1 and as they are to remain out of doors the year around1 it is very essential that they be preserved against the weather4 ,a good1 heavy coat of paint1 spread over good lumber1 will prevent cracking and warping4 ,employ the time1 in this month of comparative leisure1 in getting everything in readiness for the approaching honey season4 ,,february4 ,february like ,january is not a busy month with bees in the ,northern ,states1 neither do they require much care4 ,if not finished last month1 continue the work of ,january by making hives1 glass honey boxes1 and all fixtures required in the management of the bees in the coming season4 ,in some sections bees will fly briskly the last of the month4 ,clear away the snow from the foot of the hives at that time4 ,set out meal feed for the bees1 provided they fly briskly4 ,,march4 ,at the commencement of this month1 clear the snow away from the front of hives2 raise the hives up on blocks at the corners1 remove the bottom board under the brood section1 and brush out all accumulations1 which might invite the bee moth to deposit her eggs1 if suffered to remain through the summer4 ,this accomplished1 set the hive back in its place4 ,the first day that the bees fly1 set out the meal as heretofore directed4 ,commence to feed liquid feed as early as the bees will take it4 ,feed regularly every day1 or every other day1 at evening4 ,when you commence to feed1 remove the packing from the cap1 and also take off the ventilator4 ,the space over the comb frames not covered with the feeder1 cover with a small honey board4 ,let the packing remain at the sides until you have put on the side boxes1 or until some time in ,may1 as it keeps the brood chamber warm1 which is essential in forwarding breeding4 ,open a small portion of the upper entrance 7about one-third7 and keep the passage open at the bottom1 the same as during the winter4 ,,april4 ,early in ,april--the first warm1 sunny day--examine your stocks1 and see if they have fertile1 laying queens4 ,if the queen is all right1 there will be eggs and brood in the brood cells4 ,don't keep the hives open any longer than is necessary1 as the cold air might chill the brood4 ,at this time1 if some stocks have a large amount of honey in the combs of the brood section1 exchange such with some stock that has but little2 as it is a disadvantage to have too-much sealed honey in the brood combs in the spring4 ,it sometimes happens that all the brood combs will be filled with sealed honey nearly down to the bottom1 leaving but a very small place en two or three combs near the bottom for breeding purposes4 ,in such cases1 take out two or three combs1 and exchange with other stocks having empty combs1 leaving in each such as have brood and eggs1 in every stock4 ,don't take out any bees4 ,in this manner equalize your stocks1 and all will be benefited4 ,if any stocks are found queenless1 or with diseased or worthless queens1 take means to furnish them with a fertile1 laying queen1 as soon as possible4 ,in the meantime1 keep the entrances to such hives contracted very small1 so but very few bees can pass at one time1 to prevent attacks from robbers4 ,queenless stocks1 or those which have diseased or drone-laying queens1 will not resist an attack from robber bees with as much vigor as a stock having a fertile and prolific queen4 ,,may4 ,if surplus honey is your object the coming season1 early in this month put on the boxes at the sides1 and the last of the month1 or as soon as the bees commence work in the side boxes1 remove the small honey board over the brood section1 and put on the top boxes1 except at the place occupied by the feeder4 ,it may be well to feed liberally for about ten days before fruit blossoms appear1 in order to get the bees at work in the boxes4 ,you can judge what is best4 ,if the stocks are backward in breeding1 the comb not filled with eggs and brood in nearly every part1 it will be best to defer liberal feeding until a little later4 ,you should have had the brood combs filled with brood and eggs1 before liberal feeding is begun1 else the bees will fill with honey what should be filled with eggs and brood2 and thus the number of bees will be reduced from what there would be if the queen deposited eggs in all the cells4 ,you want all the bees possible to gather the honey harvest of ,june1 ,july1 ,august and ,september4 ,if you want swarms1 don't put on any boxes4 ,about the time fruit blossoms appear1 or a little before1 open both entrances to their full extent1 in all strong and healthy stocks4 ,,june4 ,this is the month for swarms4 ,it is also the month1 in most localities1 when the best quality of box honey is1 collected4 ,if you have arranged for swarms to appear this month1 have everything in readiness for them4 ,if you are arranging for surplus honey1 remove the boxes as fast as filled1 and replace with empty ones4 ,hive the swarms as soon as clustered4 ,be sure not to let them remain in the hot sun for any length of time4 ,have your hives all ready4 ,this month is a good time to rear queens in the miniature hives4 ,keep the grass and weeds about the hives cut down4 ,they harbor the moth miller1 when suffered to grow about the hives4 ,,july4 ,continue to take off boxes as fast as filled4 ,keep a sharp lookout that the moth worms do not get in and injure the honey in the boxes which you have removed4 ,if the supply of honey fails when the boxes are only partially filled1 feed the bees liberally1 until the boxes are finished4 ,do this as soon as honey fails1 as the bees will store faster in boxes if fed as soon as the natural supply of honey ceases4 ,it will be well to put on a few boxes--say1 one side to each new swarm which has been hived early2 and also on old stocks that swarmed early4 ,put the boxes on one side first2 then if the bees go to work in them1 put in the other side4 ,,august4 ,if you have a market near home1 the surplus honey in glass boxes will sell very well the last of this month1 before honey is brought from away2 but if you are to ship a great distance1 the weather will be too warm in this month4 ,keep a close watch that the boxes you have taken off do rot get wormy4 ,eternal vigilance is the price of success4 ,keep boxes on your hives through this month and next1 for surplus honey4 ,keep down the grass and weeds about the hives4 ,,september4 ,in some localities ,september gives a very good yield of honey4 ,i recollect one season in particular1 since ,i adopted my present system of bee management1 when the yield of box honey in ,september was very remarkable4 ,some of my hives of bees filled their full set of boxes almost entirely in a few days4 ,i think that it was in considerably less than two weeks1 that they finished them up1 and they had only a light start--a few small pieces of comb in some of the boxes1 and in the others none at all4 ,feed at the last of this month1 to complete all partially filled boxes1 and at the very last of the month1 or first of ,october1 feed such swarms as may be deficient of stores for winter1 if you prefer to do this rather than to equalize by exchange of comb frames1 as directed in another place4 ,if you decide to thus equalize1 do it the last of ,october or the first of ,november4 ,,october4 ,at the commencement of this month1 continue to feed such stocks1 if any1 as are short of honey1 yet are supplied with a good amount of comb in which to store honey4 ,as the yield of honey from flowers closes this month1 at its end remove all boxes from the hives4 ,such as are partially filled with comb or honey may be set in a cold1 dry place1 and remain for use another year4 ,if placed where they will freeze1 and then sealed up carefully1 so the moth miller cannot get in1 they will be in good condition when wanted next season4 ,boxes that have comb about a third full or even less1 are finished very quickly by the bees4 ,be sure to keep all such boxes for the next season4 ,you probably have a few queens in your miniature hives4 ,look over your stocks1 and if any are found queenless1 or with diseased queens1 give them a new and prolific one4 ,,november4 ,the first of ,november1 if not already done1 exchange comb frames1 from stocks deficient in stores to winter1 with such as can spare a frame of honey4 ,do this until all have stores sufficient for winter4 ,twenty pounds of honey will render them safe until you begin to feed in the spring4 ,from the middle to the last of ,november is usually the time to prepare the hives for winter1 by packing with hay or straw1 as directed in another place4 ,this should not be done until a few days before steady cold weather sets in4 ,care should be exercised not to put it off until it is too cold2 neither should it be done too early4 ,be sure to pack thoroughly4 ,success in wintering depends in a great degree upon thorough work in packing the hives4 ,,december4 ,in this month procure your lumber and all material for making hives1 boxes1 etc41 to be worked up during the winter4 ,if there are small villages or large cities near by1 you will find this month a good time to market your honey1 if you have any on hand4 ,with a little effort1 you can have ready customers for your goods1 or at least a portion of it4 ,honey in glass boxes is in such nice shape1 that any one who likes a fine article1 will pay a liberal price for it1 after they have once tested its quality4 ,in a few years you will have established a trade with ready customers1 near home1 at remunerative prices4 ,,chapter ,,xx4 ,,conclusion4 ,,we often hear this question asked3 ,are bees ,profitable8 and the replies given are various1 contradictory and amusing1 varying in accordance with the honesty1 experience1 skill and success of the bee keeper4 ,such as have attempted bee keeping with the old fashioned square box hives1 under the old system of management based on fire and brimstone1 will say there is no profit in bees1 and that you must not molest them at all2 if you do1 they will run out1 and you will loose your luck4 ,there is another class1 who have adopted all the extravagant fancies of the patent bee hive venders1 paying large sums of money for hives worse than useless1 with what are claimed to be patent fixtures--expecting a sudden fortune as the result1 and found the whole thing a fraud4 ,perhaps they have been duped in this way a half-dozen times or more1 and always with the same result4 ,this class will tell you emphatically1 that everything pertaining to bees is a humbug and a cheat--no money in them1 etc4 ,in presenting the statements made in this work1 ,i am not blinded nor influenced by any selfish motive1 in condemning or recommending any one system of bee management or hive4 ,i only wish to present facts1 and do what little ,i can to make bee keeping safe and profitable to all who engage in it4 ,there is much written on the subject of bees--their habits and management1 construction of hives1 etc41 which is mere guess-work4 ,a great deal is written1 too1 for no other than selfish or prejudiced motives4 ,what is wanted is practical instruction on the subject--such instruction and statements as are based on experience1 and will stand the test of application1 when brought into active1 every-day use4 ,the real1 practical experience of the bee keeper1 who has devoted many years to the work1 and will tell what has come under his or her personal observation1 is worth much more than the finest spun theory of the most learned and talented theorist2 or in other words1 mere conjecture is a poor and uncertain guide in bee keeping4 ,it is an old but true saying that ,practice makes ,perfect4 ,in no business will this saying apply more closely or with greater force than to bee keeping4 ,that bees are profitable when rightly managed1 ,i think ,i have shown in this little work2 and that they can be of no profit1 as often managed1 ,i think is equally made clear4 ,the natural habits of bees have not been sufficiently understood1 by the majority of bee keepers4 ,this has rendered them an easy prey to the many speculators in bee hives of peculiar shape and construction1 who are constantly urging their claims to possessing great knowledge of bees1 when perhaps they never saw a bee2 and care not one straw for the advancement of successful bee culture4 ,i find1 with the great majority of hives now in use1 there are many obstacles to successful and profitable bee keeping4 ,there is too little room for storing box honey in them4 ,boxes are often difficult of access to the bees1 so that they manifest much reluctance about entering them1 often clustering on the outside of the hive through the honey season1 when they should be at work in the boxes4 ,then1 too1 the boxes are usually too large1 which renders the honey unsalable4 ,honey in large boxes often contains cells of brood1 and bee bread1 or pollen1 interspersed among the honey cells1 which are a great damage to it1 rendering it very unsalable4 ,glass boxes1 each holding about four and one-half pounds1 is the proper size4 ,a swarm of bees in a hive with thirty of these boxes1 judiciously arranged1 will fill them nearly as quickly as they would half the number1 as the bees have ample room to work without crowding4 ,there are a vast number of bee keepers who now have bees which are of no profit to them1 but instead are only a perplexity and trouble4 ,if such would manage their bees on correct and scientific principles1 in accordance with their natural habits and instincts1 with judicious care and attention bestowed at the right time1 and in the proper manner1 using a hive constructed in accordance with those principles1 they would be surprised at the results which would follow4 ,to succeed with bees1 we should recollect that personal experience is the best guide2 and next to this is the instruction of those engaged in the business1 who prove by the results which follow their management1 that they make bee culture profitable4 ,in commencing bee keeping1 if you purchase bees1 use great care in doing so4 ,buy none but strong1 healthy stocks4 ,if you purchase in box hives or patent hives1 you will be very likely1 if not acquainted with bees1 or unless purchasing of some reliable person1 to get diseased stocks2 and again1 a person who keeps bees by the ordinary methods1 is very likely to have diseased stocks which he thinks are all right4 ,so1 great care is necessary in buying your outfit to commence bee keeping4 ,diseased stocks are dear at any price4 ,you want the very best to start with1 if you can possibly get them4 ,be sure to get such stocks as have young queens1 for if the stock has a queen four years old or more1 7and they are likely to be that old in box or patent hives1 under ordinary management17 such a queen is liable to fail at any time1 and loss of the stock follows4 ,in commencing to keep bees1 if possible start with good1 strong1 healthy stocks1 in the right kind of a hive2 then you will have no difficulty in changing them4 ,but if this cannot possibly be done1 be sure to start with strong1 healthy stocks4 ,if you must take second-class hives1 of this class the plain movable comb and box hives are best4 ,but be sure to let the patent hives entirely alone2 they are a curse to the bee-keeper4 ,if you get your bees in second-class hives1 transfer them to ,controllable ,hives1 or as fast as they swarm put them in ,controllable ,hives4 ,in this way you will soon have your bees in shape to pay you a good profit4 ,when you begin keeping bees1 study closely their natural habits and requirements4 ,give them such care and attention as your judgement and present knowledge teaches they require4 ,persevere1 and ultimate success is certain4 ,every one who attains success with bees1 will find that there is something more to be done1 than simply to stand with folded hands1 with the expectation that a fortune must inevitably follow4 ,know the precise condition of your bees at all times--whether they are weak or strong1 whether they are without a queen1 or whether the queen has become so old as to have passed her usefulness4 ,after a period of years1 queens become barren1 and unless they are removed1 and a young queen substituted1 the bees will rapidly decline in numbers1 and all disappear from the hive in a few weeks or months4 ,it cannot be too strongly urged upon the beginner1 this great necessity of securing strong1 healthy stocks to begin with2 and if possible1 get them in the ,controllable ,hives4 ,all who do not fully understand the management and nature of bees would save themselves much trouble and perplexity1 by procuring1 to begin with1 one or more healthy colonics in the ,controllable ,hive4 ,your chances of success in the end1 and your profits of the first season1 are greater from one swarm in this hive1 than from six in second-class hives4 ,if you purchase bees in inferior hives1 you will need to exercise great care that they are not diseased4 ,there is not one box or patent hive in fifty 7as ordinarily managed7 but that is deceased4 ,they are either badly infested with the bee moth1 have old1 mouldy black combs1 an old and diseased queen1 or are in some way diseased4 ,no matter how low the price paid for such stocks1 they will be found expensive4 ,be sure to get none but the best to commence with2 they are the cheapest in the end4 ,i might illustrate this with many cases that have come under my observation4 ,one or two ,i will mention3 ,a gentlemen in ,connecticut ordered of me a swarm of ,italian bees in the ,controllable ,hive1 in the spring of #ahhj1 for which he paid me twenty dollars4 ,he wrote me in ,june that they were doing finely1 and that he never saw bees work so well--they were at work in all the boxes1 some of them being nearly filled with honey1 and all the combs being filled with bees at work storing2 and from appearances he should get a large amount of surplus box honey from them4 ,another gentleman wrote me1 almost the same time1 asking my price for a swarm of ,italian bees1 and when informed that it was twenty dollars1 he wrote me that as he could get the ,italian bees nearer his home for ten dollars1 he would not order of me1 but would invest his twenty dollars and get two swarms instead of one4 ,he has since written me that one of the swarms for which he paid ten dollars he has lost outright1 leaving him only a mass of moth worms in old and mouldy black combs4 ,the other has proved to be queenless1 and has caused him more trouble and perplexity than it is worth1 to say the least4 ,there is now not over a pint of bees in the hive1 but he has put in a queen and hopes to save them from total loss4 ,i know of another case where a gentleman bought six swarms of bees in box hives4 ,they were very heavy and he thought of course they were all right4 ,he knew nothing of the diseases of bees1 and supposed if they were heavy1 and had honey enough1 that was all that was necessary4 ,he bought them in the fall at a very low price1 and was much elated over his purchase4 ,five of the six swarms died during the winter1 and the remaining one came out in the spring so weak as to be no profit whatever the next season2 and the next winter that also died4 ,it is an established fact that to succeed well with bees they must be kept in hives suited to their habits and requirements1 and with the view of rendering them profitable4 ,such is the ,controllable ,hive4 ,and they must be managed on principles in accordance with nature's laws1 and the instincts and habits of the honey bee4 ,such is the new system recommended in this book--,bee ,keeping ,reduced to a ,science2 no luck1 no guess-work1 no chance about it4 ,trusting that this little work may be the means of greatly increasing the profits of bees1 ,i bring it to a close4 ,illustration 99 99 99 99 99 ,transcriber ,note ,minor typos have been corrected4 ,the upper corner of pages #he and #hf 7back-to-back pages7 was torn off4 ,the missing text was obtained from another copy of the publication4 ,the cover images were compiled from images made available by the ,internet ,archive and placed in the ,public ,domain4