,,m\nta9 ,,craft ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,alps ,,sydney ,,sp5c] ,,m\nta9 ,,craft ,,edit$ ,,by ,,ge(frey ,,w9?rop ,,"y ,,) #bh ,,illu/rations ,,new ,,york ,,*>les ,,scribn]',s ,,sons #aibj ,,to ,,! ,,memory ,,( ,,gallant ,,comrades ,,9 ,,! ,,m\nta9s ,,frank ,,b]gne ,,guy ,,butl9 ,c4 ,k4 ,,c>frae ,,fo/] ,,cunliffe ,g4 ,t4 ,,ew5 ,e4 ,n4 ,,f9lay ,r4 ,w4 ,,flet*] ,w4 ,g4 ,,flet*] ,h4 ,o4 ,,gibson ,,edmund ,,h>tley ,s4 ,w4 ,,h]=d ,,t]5ce ,,hickman ,,trev55 ,,huxley ,h4 ,o4 ,,jones ,,muriel ,,gw5dol5 ,,jones ,e4 ,l4 ,,julian ,,horas ,,k5n$y ,f4 ,m4 ,,levi ,,josef ,,lo*matt] ,,frank ,,lucas ,,sidney ,mc,d,o,u,g,a,l,l ,,nigel ,,madan ,,k5ne? ,,moorsom ,l4 ,e4 ,,noon ,l4 ,,opp5heim] ,,hugh ,,pope ,,k5ne? ,,p[ell ,,paul ,,preuss ,j4 ,e4 ,,raphael ,c4 ,j4 ,,reid ,c4 ,,donald ,,rob]tson ,,jack ,,s&]s ,h4 ,,jones-,,sab9 ,,laur5ce ,,sl+sby ,,morris ,,sl+sby ,,frank ,,sp>r[ ,,wilb]t ,,sp5c] ,,?oby ,,/eph5 ,,l\is ,,!ytaz ,h4 ,w4 ,,?omas ,j4 ,m4 ,,ar*] ,,?omson ,,erik ,,todd ,,k5ne? ,,trayes ,,georg9a ,,m>y ,,tuke ,,h>ry ,,walk] ,,*>les ,,w]n] ,c4 ,a4 ,,wordswor? ,c4 ,s4 ,,wor?+ton ,,lawr5ce ,c4 ,h4 ,,"y ,,preface ,?is book is = m\nta9e]s2 & a m\nta9e] is n only "o :o climbs m\nta9s1 b anyone :o likes to walk1 read1 or ?9k ab\t !m4 ,i d n myself atta* mu* value to m\nta9e]+ h&books3 an op5-air pursuit c only be le>n$ by practical attempt & f good example4 ,i us$ to read !m = ! fun ( surpris+ "s h]o ( my y\? z he /ra9$ 8 imag9ation to squeeze a grave pr9ciple out ( a r&om holiday memory1 & = ! sympa!tic pleasure ( recon/ruct+ = myself ! real day ( irresponsible adv5ture ! recollection ( :i* 0 br++ a ?rill ( =bidd5 joy to 8 m9d be=e he compos$ 8 face to inflict x ^u me 9 ! =m ( an edify+ ?ree-l9e precept4 ,i c read !m n[ no m ?an ,i c read ! #8climb+ accid5t' type ( fiction popul> ) magaz9es1 :i* us$ to provide a less s5sitive dige/ion ) "s acrid food = mir?4 ,on ! o!r h& ,i w\ld /ill set myself to le>n ,*9ese1 if t w\ld enable me ! bett] to und]/& "o m record ( g5u9e m\nta9 adv5ture or discov] "s unfamili> attitude ( ! human m9d t[>ds ! m\nta9s & _! symbolism4 ,i d n expect o!r m\nta9e]s to read1 or to refra9 f read+1 ^! op9ions 9 a diff]5t _s4 ,m\nta9e]+1 l o!r arts1 has suff]$ mu*1 = all its y\?1 f ! limitations impos$ by ha/y tradition & by doctr9e prematurely cry/alliz$2 &1 z 9 o!r crafts1 if ev] a p]iod comes t %all f9d ! traditional rules too rigid to admit ( a :olesome influx ( new & orig9al conception1 m\nta9e]+ w cease to des]ve ! "n ( an art or craft1 & become at be/ an #8organiz$ game4' ,b ! op9ions z !y /& may yet s]ve a limit$ purpose4 ,"s m5 are born climb]s4 ,!y w le>n little ab\t climb+ f precepts4 ,at ! same "t _m ( ! f9e/ climb]s fall %ort ( our ideal ( safe me?od because !y h nev] conc]n$ !mselves ) ! possible exi/5ce ( any fundam5tal pr9ciples gov]n+ ! v>i\s unrelat$ movem5ts 9 :i* !y delight2 & s x comes t1 ?\gh !y may d n9e ?+s1 by in/9ct1 "r1 !y d ! t5?1 by habit1 wrong4 ,= ^! climb]s ,i am n )\t hope t ! /atem5t1 made ,i believe "h = ! fir/ "t1 ( ! pr9ciples :i* und]lie all correct climb+ motions1 & :i* h be5 /eadily em]g+ dur+ fifty ye>s ( practical m\nta9e]+1 may n be entirely useless4 ,if !y f9d t n9e spokes ( _! practice lead back to my hub1 & ! t5? does n1 !y may le>n h[ to correct ! t5?4 ,if1 on ! contr>y1 !y f9d t only "o leads back to x1 & n9e radiate else:i!r1 well !n1 no d\bt !y w decide t ,i am wrong4 ,b :atev] we may be z climb]s1 no "o ( u is a born m\nta9e]4 ,m\nta9e]+1 9 its wid] aspects1 c only be le>n$ by exp]im5t2 & ev5 ! natural climb] may be able to get "s guidance f ! collective expression ( o!r m5's m\nta9e]+ exp]i5ce4 ,_m effici5t climb]s1 aga91 nev] bo!r !mselves at all ) m\nta9e]+ z a craft4 ,!y simply take its pleasures1 & leave its responsibilities to guides or to *ance4 ,m\nta9e]+ w pr(it1 if !y c be l$ to discov] some?+ ( all t !y are miss+4 ,m ( u are1 9 a s5se1 speciali/s2 int]e/$ 9 "o dep>tm5t alone1 & neglectful or ignorant ( ! re/4 ,= su* ( u !re is "s b5efit 9 survey+1 if only sup]ficially1 ! imm5se field t a man mu/ set himself to trav]se :o aspires to lead a p>ty safely4 ,yet ano!r gr\p1 ) :om ,i h a p>ticul> sympa?y1 :o belong to ! class ( #8made' climb]s r ?an to t ( #8natural' climb]s1 may (t5 f9d t !y h /uck fa/ at a c]ta9 po9t 9 _! te*nique & are ab&on+ ! prospect ( improv+ fur!r4 ,exp]i5ce enc\rages ! hope t !y may be able1 aft] le>n+ some?+ ( ! ess5tial pr9ciples ( me?od1 to reca/ or amplify _! own me?ods1 s z to make fur!r progress on s\nd] l9es4 ,or !y w discov] t a man may be useful to a p>ty z an exp]t 9 "o ( ! less common b no less important bran*es ( m\nta9e]+ craft4 ,_! inf]iority 9 a s+le dep>tm5t--= in/ance1 rock climb+1 9 :i* excell5ce is (t5 ov]rat$ z comp>$ ) o!r equally valuable qualifications--w !n be se5 9 bett] proportion4 ,& ^? :o are n climb]s1 b :o are int]e/$ 9 or p]haps ev5 res5tful ( ! fasc9ation :i* m\nta9s ex]cise1 may discov]1 if !y h ! pati5ce1 t m\nta9e]+ z x is n[ practis$ is no simple outlet = an a?letic impulse1 & no selfi% indulg5ce 9 a game :i* has ! dem]it ( risk+ lives (t5 ( notable value2 b t x is a g5u9e craft1 z well z a g5u9e en?usiasm2 an education alike 9 self-developm5t & 9 self-subord9ation2 a discipl9e ( "*1 ( inf9ite v>iety 9 its dem&s & 9 its reactions ^u /r5g?1 endurance1 n]ve1 w1 & temp]1 ^u p[]s ( organization z ^u p[]s ( deal+ ) m52 a te/ ( p]sonality = :i* no prep>ation may be consid]$ excessive1 & a sci5ce = ^: ma/]y ! /udy ( all our active ye>s is b>ely suffici5t4 ,( its rew>ds1 9 heal?1 self-k1 /hetic pleasure1 & incomp>able adv5ture1 x is n ! place to speak 9 a book ( practical c\nsel4 ,= ! op9ions on te*nical po9ts1 & _! elaboration 9 !ory1 ,i mu/ be held alone responsible4 ,:]e ! multiplication or repetition ( detail may appe> t$i\s1 x has be5 ins]t$ = ! bett] illu/ration ( "s und]ly+ pr9ciple1 or to provide ! m mat]ial = ! future settlem5t ( "s po9t /ill "u discussion among m\nta9e]s4 ,^? :o disagree ) ! me?ods recomm5d$ may /ill make use ( ! advice1 mu* z ,i %\ld d 9 _! case1 treat+ x z yet ano!r /atem5t ( an individual po9t ( view1 su* z may at lea/ act z a s]viceable /&>d ( comp>ison = _! own practice4 ,our object w be ga9$ if ! sugge/ions are f\nd to provide a basis = m g5]al discussion & ?\ght1 an available cond5sation ( a good deal ( !ory float+ & p>tially =mulat$ among mod]n m\nta9e]s ( exp]i5ce1 & some?+ ( a book ( ref]5ce & rem9d] = ^? :o may n h kn[n1 or c>$ to admit1 t !re 0 s mu* ab\t :i* !y ought to =m an op9ion4 99 99 99 99 99 ,9 ! innovation ( giv+ a prom95t position to consid]ations ( p]sonal managem5t & lead]%ip !re has be5 a special purpose4 ,= reasons n difficult to assign1 mo/ manuals deal+ ) ! practice ( active pursuits h be5 9 ! habit ( ignor+ ! dom9ant influ5ce t is ex]t$ ^u all comb9$ action by ! psy*ological factor1 & ! ext5t to :i* *ang+ conditions ( mood & hum\r1 & ! m /able div]g5ces betwe5 ! individual temp]am5ts ( m5 act+ 9 association1 mu/ contribute to success or failure4 ,! acc5tuation ( ! human problem1 z x pres5ts itself 9 m\nta9e]+1 has !re=e be5 int5tional4 ,9 m\nta9s1 :]e p]sonality c\nts be=e ev]y?+1 m5 are =c$ back ^u _! elem5tal selves2 !y become v diff]5t be+s f _! draw+-room semblances1 & unless !y all[ = ?is 9 ! adju/m5t ( _! relations on ! hills1 !y c a*ieve only ! m$iocrity ( p]=mance1 ! b>r5ness 9 results1 or ! complete break-d[n :i* are ! common fate ( all ill-con/itut$ p>ties1 = exploration1 = m\nta9e]+1 = w>f>e1 or = any o!r active adv5ture t dep5ds = its success ^u effective comb9ation4 99 99 99 99 99 ,m\nta9e]+1 9 its mod]n developm5t1 involves a l>ge numb] ( matt]s = arrangem5t :i* _c be class$ "u ! head+s ( te*nique or ( specific equipm5t = climb+2 su* z me?ods ( travel1 c>e ( heal?1 *oice ( di/ricts 9 less-kn[n c\ntries1 special r\tes ( access1 & details ( topography & equipm5t peculi> to any p>ticul> di/rict *os54 ,mo/ ( ^! v>y 9 detail 9 ! diff]5t ranges4 ,x has1 !re=e1 seem$ mo/ conv5i5t to deal ) ! special conditions :i* *>act]ize a numb] ( ! regions n[ mo/ frequ5tly visit$ 9 sep>ate *apt]s1 ea* *apt] devot$ to "o ( ! great ranges4 ,^! *apt]s h be5 und]tak5 by exp]ts :o w be recogniz$ z speak+ ) au?ority by m\nta9e]s ( e s*ool & nationality4 ,_! int5tion is to give j ! am\nt ( practical in=mation :i* we all ne$1 & :i* we f9d x s h>d to procure1 :5 we are 9 process ( mak+ up our m9ds :at region we w visit2 & to add suffici5t indication ( :]e we may f9d all ! m p>ticul> in=mation :i* we %all require :5 once we h decid$ ^u our region4 ,capta9 ,f>r>'s sugge/ions on ,m\nta9 ,equipm5t1 ,mr4 ,arnold ,lunn's on ,equipm5t & ,me?od = ,m\nta9e]+ on ,ski1 ,dr4 ,wolla/on's on ! ,c>e ( ,heal?1 & ,mr4 ,sydney ,sp5c]'s on ,photography1 apply1 g5]ally speak+1 to all m\nta9e]+ regions & to all organiz$ exp$itions4 ,to ,capta9 ,f>r>'s advice ! sugge/ions on ,outfit made 9 ! regional *apt]s are complem5t>y1 dictat$ by ! special conditions ( ! di/rict or ( ! season4 ,besides t :i* is ow+ to innum]able contributors to discussions :i* h ext5d$ ov] _m ye>s & ex]cis$ a v>iety ( languages1 ,i h to ackn[l$ge a v special debt ( gratitude to ,mr4 ,h4 ,v4 ,reade1 ,c4,b41 = 8 helpful sugge/ions & c>eful revision2 to ,capta9 ,f>r>1 ,d4,s4,o41 = con/ant enc\ragem5t & a *>act]i/ically k9dly criticism2 to ,mr4 ,osc> ,eck5/e91 = hav+ mo/ g5]\sly plac$ at my disposal ! notes ( mu* accumulat$ exp]i5ce & illum9at+ inductive !ory1 & = hav+ provid$ me ) in=mation & rem9d] 9 sev]al ( ! less-kn[n bran*es ( m\nta9e]+2 & to ,mr4 ,sydney ,sp5c]1 ,mr4 ,*>les ,mead1 & ,pr(essor ,norman ,collie1 ,f4,r4,s41 = a gr\p ( illu/rations1 :i* may be f\nd to light5 ! practical detail ( ! text & s]ve z rem9d]s ( ! beauty1 ! my/]y1 & ! /rang5ess ( ! m\nta9 _w into :i*--safely & sup]ficially or ma/]fully & und]/&+ly1 accord+ to ! degree ( our prep>ation--! /udy ( m\nta9 craft purposes to enable u to p5etrate4 ,june #aiad 99 99 99 99 99 ,six ye>s ago ^! pap]s 7 s5t 9 = publication4 ,= my own %>e 9 !m ,i made ! decision1 !n1 ) "s reluctance4 ,9 m\nta9e]+ !re is always some?+ new to le>n1 & !y might all too soon ne$ correction or amplification4 ,b ! *ance ( battle :i* delay$ _! appe>ance has1 9 ! ev5t1 confirm$ ! resolution4 ,my colleagues h br\ght _! regional contributions up to date3 ,i h add$ ! sub/ance ( ! notes jott$ d[n dur+ my la/ climbs 9 ,july #aiad2 & ,i c n[ let ! op9ions g ) mu* less hesitation1 s9ce f ! annual demon/ration ( _! defici5cies by _! mo/ ob/9ate critic !y mu/1 9 future1 be exempt4 ,g4 ,w4 ,y4 ,june #aibj ,,cont5ts ,,*ap4 ,,page ,i4 ,,managem5t ,,& ,,lead]%ip #a ,by ! ,,editor ,managem5t 9 anticipation--physical well-be+--food--?ir/--smok+--ailm5ts--ba ?+--"y folk--prev5table hum\rs--bor$om--ov]-excitem5t4 ,lead]%ip 9 action--! collective confid5ce--keep+ t\*--temp]--abnormal moods--reaction--disappo9tm5t--ov]-confi d5ce--hy/]ia--v]tigo --! effect ( height4 ,social composition ( ! p>ty4 ,walk+ mann]s--"s notes on hill-walk+4 ,*oice ( di/rict4 ,incid5tal duties--hut usages--consid]ation--"s night notes--a la/ task4 ,wea!r--cl\ds--w9d--signs 9 g5]al--habit ( ! season--p]si/5ce4 ,tra9+--! framework--! organs--w & n]ves--n]ve--height & rea*4 ,pace--adju/m5t ( "t--b5ightm5t--weight h&icaps--cont9u\s go+--comb9ation-halts--! maximum rhy?m4 ,,ii4 ,,equipm5t ,,= ,,! ,,alps #hj ,by ,j4 ,p4 ,,f>r> ,equipm5t--boots--clo!s--"s alt]natives 7,g4 ,w4 ,y47--co/ume = wom5 7,miss ,,bronw5 ,,jones74 ,outfit--sack--axe--rope--knots --necess>ies--biv\ac--t5t1 etc4 ,,iii4 ,,guid$ ,,& ,,guideless ,,m\nta9e]+ #aja ,by ! ,,editor ,old-"t errors--! guide ( ! *ronicles--! guide z he is--! amateur z he may be--! composite m\nta9e]--! guide z m\nta9e]--! amateur z m\nta9e]--! "q = ! lead]--! social consid]ation--! te*nical comp5sation--examples--! exp]t--! t\ri/--! beg9n]--! mod]ate m\nta9e]--summ>y--a supreme example4 ,managem5t ( guides--guide nature--! "r foot+--be=e ! asc5t--on ! m\nta9--f9e %ades--! t]ms ( ! association--! r>e crisis--! rew>d4 ,,iv4 ,,rock ,,climb+ #ach ,by ! ,,editor ,a !ory ( ! developm5t--balance climb+--! individual /&>d--solit>y climb+--initial practice--! use ( ! foot--h>d soles--s(t soles--foo?old--anticipation--! ankle--! knee--! h&--cl+ holds--pu% & press holds--9 cracks--on slabs--*imney climb+--rib rid+--wet rock--glaz$ rock--summ>y4 ,uns\nd rock--semi-deta*$--deta*$--mora9e & scree4 ,unusual rock--9 qu>ries--along sea cliffs--on freaks4 ,climb+ d[n--positions--fac+ outw>d--fac+ sideways--fac+ inw>d--d[n *imneys or cracks--! rope 9 cont9u\s desc5t--! d\bl$ rope--brakes--spr++ ! rope--! long rope4 ,pegs & aids4 ,! axe on rocks--c>riage--! extra h&--! ,manx leg4 ,v4 ,,climb+ ,,9 ,,comb9ation #bji ,by ! ,,editor ,collective rhy?m--imitation--! rope :ile mov+ toge!r--to ! man 9 front--f ! man beh9d--:ile mov+ s+ly--foll[+ & lead+--/ances--) belays--)\t belays--hold+ ! rope--! ord] on ! rope--on asc5ts & desc5ts--on trav]ses--! ord] ( m]it--! ord] ) beg9n]s--! ord] ( mov+--! duties ( fir/ man--( second man--back+ up metaphysically--back+ up physically--( ?ird man--m ab\t ! rope dur+ climb+--) /ones--dur+ halts--coil+--suitable l5g?s--funicula4 ,,vi4 ,,corrective ,,me?od #bef ,by ! ,,editor ,human fallibility--w>n+--eas+--*eck+ on trav]ses--! case ( ! end man--! measure ( c\rage--! second man's action--aft] a fall--accid5ts4 ,m\nta9 p]v]sity--fall+ /ones--sn[ slides--ice fragm5ts--evil wea!r4 ,,vii4 ,,ice ,,& ,,sn[ ,,craft #bgi ,by ! ,,editor ,! age = glaci]s4 ,ice craft--! nature ( ice--ice-claws--cutt+ /eps--us+ /eps--! rope on ice--glaci] "w--sn[-cov]$ glaci]4 ,sn[ craft--"s *>act]i/ics & c\nt]-moves--sn[ travail--sn[ slopes--! rope & axe--b]gs*rund & bridge--cornices--sn[ 9 c\loirs--sn[ at home--confus+ wea!r--! s5se ( direction4 ,glissad+--on ice--positions--arre/s4 ,on sn[--positions--/e]+--jump+--brakes --sitt+--/one-te/s--! rope--"s v>iations--alt]nate glissad+--face inw>d--plung+-on claws4 ,on o!r gr\nds--on scree--9 w9t] gullies--on grass & hea!r4 ,,viii4 ,,reconnoitr+ #cgj ,by ! ,,editor ,?+s se5--sn[ surface condition--angle on sn[--sn[ cornices--w9d & sn[ signs--ice--c\loirs--rock--faces--ridges --slabs--rocks 9 ,brita94 ,! ,half-se54 ,! ,unse54 ,,ix4 ,,m\nta9e]+ ,,on ,,ski #cig ,by ,,arnold ,,lunn ,te*nique--equipm5t4 ,! alp9e cal5d>4 ,sn[ craft4 ,w9t] sn[--p[d] sn[--! effect ( w9d on p[d] sn[--! effect ( sun on p[d] sn[--summ>y ( w9t] sn[4 ,spr+ sn[4 ,! effect ( ,fhn & ?aw--,fhn 9 w9t]--,fhn 9 spr+4 ,summ] sn[4 ,sn[ avalan*es4 ,classification ( avalan*es4 ,summ] sn[ avalan*es4 ,tactics on avalan*e gr\nd4 ,! ,high ,alps 9 w9t]--wea!r conditions--! approa*es to ! ,high ,alps--sn[ conditions 9 ! ,high ,alps--rock ridges & ice slopes4 ,glaci]s 9 w9t]--ski-+ on a rope4 ,! ,high ,alps 9 spr+--,m>*--,april--,may--,june4 ,! spr+ "t-table4 ,summ] & autumn ski-+4 ,summ] ski4 ,x4 ,,m\nta9 ,,photography #dga ,by ,,sydney ,,sp5c] ,cam]a & app>atus--! *oice ( subject--col\r photography--/]eoscopic photography4 ,,xi4 ,,m\nta9e]+ ,,9 ,,tropical ,,c\ntries #dgi ,by ,a4 ,f4 ,r4 ,,wolla/on ,heal? & rem$ies4 ,equipm5t--food--cante5--clo?+--furnitur e --t5ts4 ,managem5t--loads & pack+--trade goods1 natives1 etc4--c>ri]s--camps1 & ?+s 9 g5]al4 ,,xii4 ,,m\nta9e]+ ,,9 ,,! ,,arctic 7,,spitsb]g57 #dig ,by ,sir ,w4 ,,m>t9 ,,conway ,modes ( access--plans ( campaign--f ! coa/--into ! int]ior--exceptional ph5om5a--summ>y1 co/1 etc4 ,,xiii4 ,,! ,,caucasus #ejf ,by ,,h>old ,,raeburn ,topography--lit]ature--r\tes ( access--modes ( travel--c5tres--equipm5t--organization-- maps--exp5se4 ,,xiv4 ,,! ,,m\nta9s ,,( ,,corsica #eag ,by ,,george ,,f9* ,season--equipm5t--c5tres1 access1 & topography--nature ( ! climb+4 ,,xv4 ,,! ,,himalaya #ebb ,by ,t4 ,g4 ,,long/aff ,g5]al consid]ations--configuration--conditions --conduct ( ! campaign--season4 ,*ief di/ricts--,ea/]n ,himalaya--,sikkim--,nepal --,kumaon & ,g>hwal--,tehri ,g>hwal--,simla ,hill ,/ates--,ka%mir & ,k>akoram--,h9du ,khu%1 etc4 ,p]sonal matt]s--exp5se--outfit--food --! high camp outfit--clo?+--in/rum5ts4 ,,xvi4 ,,! ,,m\nta9s ,,( ,,norway #ecf ,by ,w4 ,,cecil ,,sl+sby ,guide-books & lit]ature--season--r\tes ( access1 travel1 etc4--exp5se--equipm5t--guides--topograp hy--local conditions4 ,,xvii4 ,,! ,,s\!rn ,,alps ,,( ,,new ,,zeal& #edh ,by ,,malcolm ,,ross ,r\tes ( access--local conditions1 guides1 etc4--topography--flora & fauna--glaci]s4 ,,xviii4 ,,! ,,pyr5ees #eef ,by ,,claude ,,elliott ,topography--c5tres--guides--maps--huts & inns--equipm5t--exp5se--lit]ature4 ,,xix4 ,,! ,,rocky ,,m\nta9s #egb ,by ,a4 ,l4 ,,mumm ,topography--! ,c4,p4,r4 di/rict--! ,selkirks--guides & equipm5t--! ,nor!rn ,selkirks--! ,purcell range--"s m9or ranges--! ma9 *a9 f ,laggan to ,jasp]--! gr\ps ea/ ( ! ma9 *a9--! ma9 *a9 nor? ( ! ,g4,t4,p4--modes ( travel--outfit--season--! annual camps--access1 co/1 etc4 ,,index #eic ,,li/ ,,( ,,illu/rations ,,! ,,alps ,frontispiece ,f a ,photograph by ,,sydney ,,sp5c] ,,fac+ ,,pages ,,knots ,,= ,,use ,,9 ,,alp9e ,,ropes #ib1 #id1 #if1 #ih ,f ,photographs by ,o4 ,,eck5/e9 ,,rock ,,& ,,ice #bhj ,f a ,photograph by ,,sydney ,,sp5c] ,,m\nta9 ,,ar*itecture #cgj ,f a ,photograph by ,c4 ,f4 ,,meade ,,sn[ ,,ways #cih ,f a ,photograph by ,,jean ,,gab]ell1 ,?alwil ,,! ,,himalaya #ebb ,f a ,photograph by ,c4 ,f4 ,,meade ,,norwegian ,,peaks #ecf ,f a ,photograph by ,,norman ,,collie ,,9 ,,! ,,text ,,page ,,tric\ni ,,boot-,,nails #hc ,,ice-,,axe #ib ,,diagrams ,,%[+ ,,slopes #dbf ,,sket*-,,map ,,( ,,"p ,,( ,,cis ,,& ,,trans-,,caucasia #ejg ,,sket*-,,map ,,( ,,! ,,pyr5ees #eeh ,,m\nta9 ,,craft ,,*apt] ,i ,,managem5t ,,& ,,lead]%ip ,a p>ty consi/s usually ( f two to f\r climb]s1 exclusive ( guides4 ,a l>g] numb] inevitably divides into two or m units = m\nta9e]+ purposes4 ,! managem5t devolves ^u ! mo/ exp]i5c$ m\nta9e]4 ,8 selection z lead]1 9 ?is s5se1 is m (t5 ?an n tacit & unexpress$1 especially among ,briti% climb]s4 ,ov]-managem5t is fatal to ! effective co-op]ation ( a p>ty2 & a =mal selection ( a lead]#a1 or a precise insi/5ce ^u ! p]=mance ( p>ticul> duties by individual memb]s1 may only di/urb ! pleasant relation%ip ( fri5ds on a climb+ holiday4 ,if a man is n felt to be qualifi$ z lead] by p]sonality & exp]i5ce1 no vote w make him s4 ,l>ge or democratic p>ties1 ( equal inexp]i5ce1 c c>ry out v delightful sub-alp9e w&]+s )\t lead]%ip4 ,if !y attempt s]i\s m\nta9e]+1 x is usually at ! co/ to _! fri5ds ( sleepless nights & ( exp5sive se>* p>ties4 ,among m5 ( equal exp]i5ce1 equally able to grasp a situation & to co-op]ate )\t words ( comm&1 ! duties ( lead]%ip are slight & _! op]ation nev] obtrusive4 ,exp]i5ce tea*es !m to accept1 z a matt] ( conv5i5ce1 ! managem5t ( _! daily r\t9e by "s "o ( _! numb]1 & to ackn[l$ge1 z a matt] ( security & ( economy ( "t1 ! lead]%ip ( ! mo/ exp]t 9 ! incid5ts ( ! climb+ day4 ,9 a pursuit s exact+ z m\nta9e]+1 *>g$ ) ! unexpect$ & dep5d5t ^u cont9u\s h>mony ( action = its ord9>y progress1 "s su* volunt>y subord9ation is ess5tial4 ,! lead] may be only ! focus ( ! collective op9ion ( an exp]i5c$ p>ty3 l ! conductor ( an or*e/ra he may n be equally compet5t to play all ! in/rum5ts he directs2 b if !re is no "o to :om to look = ! ^w1 9 m\nta9e]+ z 9 music ! "t is lo/ & ! h>mony vani%es = easy & = difficult passages alike4 ,9 p>ties ( unequal exp]i5ce ! lead]'s responsibility is great]1 & 8 direction has to be ! m =mally & unque/ion+ly accept$4 ,a *ild has to le>n to take 8 eld]s' #8yes' or #8no' z f9al 9 ! crisis ( "s new exp]i5ce3 !re is (t5 no "t to give him reasons1 & 8 exp]i5ce w\ld be insuffici5t to enable him to conv]t !m into ! imm$iate action requir$4 ,b x is m difficult = a man1 possibly ) a brilliant record beh9d him ^u ,briti% rocks1 to accept a decision unque/ion+ly1 especially if he has be5 accu/om$ 9 mom5ts ( crisis to dep5d ^u 8 own skill or judgm5t4 ,to delay1 h[ev]1 or to argue is z fatal z to disobey4 ,! lead] may be wrong1 b 8 error w probably be on ! side ( ov]-caution1 s9ce he w be consci\sly direct+ = a p>ty t has n yet le>n$ to "w toge!r4 ,to prove him wrong1 by ! successful issue ( our disob$i5ce or disagreem5t1 is z de/ructive ( ! future h>mony & activity ( ! p>ty z to prove him "r1 by its ill-success1 may be to ! actual safety ( ! p>ty at ! mom5t4 ,a good-temp]$ p>ty ( beg9n]s1 ) a mild lead]1 may cont9ue to climb toge!r on ^! undef9$ t]ms1 b !re w be hesitation & consultation :]e !re %\ld be decisive action2 x w nev] gr[ fit = any s]i\s exp$ition4 ,a lead] ( great] exp]i5ce or %ort] temp] w cle> matt]s up at once4 ,he w "k t ?\gh 8 judgm5t may n be infallible1 ! fact t x may be que/ion$ at a mom5t ( crisis mu/ be dang]\s4 ,a m\nta9e]+ p>ty has to e/abli% a habit ( fri5dly discipl9e4 ,mo/ "y m5 :5 fir/ tak5 out to ! ,alps h _h exp]i5ce ( ?is discipl9e 9 o!r pursuits2 b 9 mom5ts ( excitem5t ! national _s ( indep5d5ce1 or ! in/9ct ( self-pres]vation1 is apt to ass]t itself1 & ^! mom5ts1 if !y occur be=e ! p>ty is weld$ into a climb+ unit1 may be fatal to its con/itution4 ,a wise lead] w insi/ on a reasonable discipl9e or sugge/ a dissolution z ! less] evil4 ,if x is ! duty ( ! "y m\nta9e] to le>n to accept a con/itutional au?ority = ! good ( 8 p>ty1 x is t ( ! lead] or manag] to see t x is us$ only = ! good ( ! p>ty1 & to make x p]sonally ! less obvi\s1 ! m x gr[s to be accept$ 9 und]/&+4 ,an e>ly alp9e tradition1 hi/orically traceable to ! isolat$ & responsible position ( ! fir/ guideless p>ties1 :o _h to face ! dang]s ( ! m\nta9s1 /ill unfamili>1 & ! army ( _! ho/ile critics z if go+ =? aga9/ an enemy1 made ! lead] an absolute autocrat1 ! comm&] ( a =lorn hope4 ,_m lead]s ( ?is type 7 frankly bullies1 ord]+ _! fri5ds = _! good l old-"t s*oolma/]s4 ,occasionally1 :5 "o man 0 m>k$ out by exp]i5ce or p]sonality1 ! results 7 effective 9 climb+4 ,b ! tyranny w\ld n n[ be consid]$ tol]able1 & "u mod]n conditions x w\ld con/itute bad lead]%ip4 ,k ( ! craft is f> m widely spread1 & ! climb+ attempt$ is ( a /&>d t dem&s an equal %>e ( responsible "w f u all4 ,x is n[ recogniz$ t ! /r5g? ( a p>ty lies 9 its collective capacity1 n 9 its lead] z "o out/&+ expon5t4 ,b ! tradition /ill survives1 & "s oppress$ p>ties w /ill awak5 9 ! casual climb] a wond] at ! l>ge am\nt ( hector+ !y w endure f _! lead] comp>$ ) ! little :i* 8 me?ods enable !m to a*ieve4 ,,managem5t ,,9 ,,anticipation ,?ree ?+s only are necess>y = ! salvation ( a m\nta9e]+ holiday3 good heal?1 good fell[%ip & good climb+4 ,^! ?ree conditions are mutually contributory & int]dep5d5t2 & ! la/1 ! decl>$ object ( ! association1 is only atta9able :5 ! o!r two are secure4 ,x goes )\t say+ t a good lead] mu/ be able to design & direct an asc5t s f> z ! actual climb+ is conc]n$2 b he w disc\nt be=eh& half 8 *ances ( successful p]=mance unless he has le>n$ h[ to br+ 8 p>ty on to ! glaci]1 at f\r 9 ! morn+1 fit 9 heal? & on good t]ms ) !mselves & "o ano!r4 ,sid5ote3 ,physical ,well-be+4 ,=tunately1 9 deal+ ) heal?y m51 special att5tion to ! fir/ condition ( heal? is conf9$ to ! fir/ two or ?ree days ( a t\r4 ,aft] ^! are safely pass$1 air & ex]cise & increas+ g5]al fitness take ov] m$ical *>ge & deal summ>ily ) ! beg9n+s ( any less] or local ailm5ts4 ,!re is no ne$ to bo!r ov]mu* ab\t ! p>ty be=e ! t\r comm5ces4 ,( c\rse m51 = _! own sakes1 w come z fit z !y c4 ,att5tion to ! diet &1 if x c be got1 "s regul> ex]cise 9 ! op5 air--walk+1 runn+ or t5nis--may be sugge/$2 b ,i h nev] se5 any p>ticul> b5efit accrue f ex]cis+ p>ticul> sets ( climb+ muscles4 ,i return to ?is else:]e2 & ,i w\ld only make "o exception "h1 = a lead]'s att5tion4 ,"s m51 especially z !y get on 9 ye>s1 are liable to cramp 9 ! trunk muscles f ! fatigue ( g5]al climb+1 & 9 ! h&s aft] sev]e rock-"w4 ,9 ^! cases x is well wor? :ile recomm5d+ anticipatory #8local' ex]cises = ! h& & =e>m & = ! walls ( ! trunk1 to keep ! muscles supple & #8long4' ,danc+1 skipp+1 f5c+ & wood-*opp+ are all wor? m5tion+ to m5 :o _c get into ! op5 air4 ,&1 above all1 ! morn+ cold ba?6 ,! fir/ few days ( ! t\r1 h[ev]1 are vital4 ,m\nta9e]s are s\nd m51 & h usually only two weak po9ts1 ! feet & ! /oma*4 ,new boots or ov]work attack ! fir/2 unaccu/om$ food1 *ang+ atmosph]ic pressures1 & revolution>y h\rs ( sleep1 food & ex]cise upset ! second4 ,= ! feet precaution>y measures are ! safe/4 ,9 ord9>y life we accept _! con/ant s]vice unconsci\sly1 & x requires an ef=t to give our own &1 ev5 m1 o!r m5's feet ! additional att5tion !y require on ! fir/ few days ( any t\r4 ,to see t ! boots fit1 on ! second day ev5 m ?an on ! fir/2 to make sure t "o or ev5 two extra pairs ( socks are put on if any boot has become /ret*$ aft] wett+2 to discov] if !re is any beg9n+ ( rub or bli/]1 & to *eck x by boracic p[d] or o!r o9tm5t 9 ! sock at once1 ev5 if ?is means a halt 9 ! middle ( a climb2 to sugge/ brac+ ) cold wat] 9 ! ev5+s or :5ev] opportunity (f]s2 9 ! case ( anyone ^: sk9 is t5d]1 to d\ble ^! precautions3 ^! are "s ( ! fir/ duties ( managem5t4 ,int]nal *ill is a con/ant risk dur+ ! fir/ few days ( exposure to unaccu/om$ *anges ( temp]ature4 ,damp clo!s next to ! sk9 are pr9cipally to be avoid$4 ,a sp>e ve/1 flannel %irt or #8woolly' %\ld always be tak5 9 ! sack1 = a *ange at hut or biv\ac1 ev5 if ! o!r clo!s h to be worn wet or slept 94 ,9 a hut x is pref]able to take ! wet clo!s (f & to sleep roll$ 9 a blanket1 ev5 ?\gh t may be also damp4 ,dur+ ! day x is unwise to sit on damp or cold rocks4 ,a coil ( rope may be us$ z a seat1 or a useful habit is to c>ry a small squ>e ( wat]pro(1 9 :i* ! sp>e %irt c also be wrapp$4 ,:5 ne>+ ! #8gte' or hut1 x is well to rev]se ! usual practice1 & g sl[ = ! la/ tw5ty m9utes1 s t ! p]spiration may dry gradually f ! body :ile 9 motion1 & n aft] x is at re/4 ,by ! fire 9 ! ev5+1 dur+ ! snooze on ! summit1 & especially 9 an en=c$ biv\ac1 ! /oma* is ! vital po9t to protect4 ,9 case we get b5ight$1 any sp>e clo!s1 or ev5 pap]1 %\ld be wrapp$ r\nd ! /oma*4 ,! coat %\ld be tak5 (f & fa/5$ r\nd ! %\ld]s outside ! arms1 s z to conc5trate all ! body's w>m? )9 x4 ,! feet c be put 9 a rucksack4 ,if possible1 ! boots %\ld be kept on1 to avoid _! freez+ h>d4 ,if !y h to come (f s z to save ! feet f fro/-bite1 !y %\ld be sat ^u1 to keep !m s(t4 ,w9d is ano!r enemy to gu>d aga9/ :ile re/+ dur+ ! day or sleep+ out1 & a light w9d-cloak is a s\nd protection4#b ,on return+ to ! hotel1 a hot ba?1 if procurable1 or a hot sponge-d[n1 %\ld always be tak52 x n only cle>s ! pores & supples ! muscles1 b x re/ores ! normal circulation & removes conge/ion1 due to great ex]tion & *ang+ temp]atures1 :i* (t5 produces a g5]al feel+ ( discom=t1 especially 9 ! head4 ,sid5ote3 ,food4 ,c>e 9 ! *oice ( food1 disc\ragem5t ( ! incl9ation to />ve dur+ ! day & to ov]eat 9 ! ev5+s1 insi/5ce ^u a regim5 to get ! subconsci\s /oma* work+ by its new "t-table1 &1 9 case ( failure1 ! employm5t ( ! simple dome/ic rem$ies at once & 9 "t1 ^! are all indisp5sable dur+ ! fir/ days4 ,b _! obs]vance _c be left )\t prompt+ to ! individual discretion4 ,especially is ?is ! case 9 look+ aft] "y m\nta9e]s1 :o are unacqua9t$ ) ! trea*]\s deal+s ( odd meals & brok5 sleep at high altitudes4 ,9 ! matt] ( ! *oice ( food ! lead] has to ov]come ! repugnance natural aft] a satisfy+ ev5+ meal to att5d himself to all ! r messy details ( provision+ = ! next day4 ,no guide or hotel-keep] c be tru/$ to d ?is4 ,dur+ ! fir/ days ( h>d ex]cise ! av]age man w eat b little solid food1 & turns f meats & t9s su* z hotels love to load into ! sacks4 ,he has to be tempt$ ) sweet-/uffs1 jams 7! small t9s are irresi/ible71 *ocolate1 & meat-ess5ces & eggs = support4 ,! disposition to eat little dur+ ! ef=t ( ! fir/ days1 & to eat l>gely 9 ! reaction ( ! ev5+s1 has to be c\nt]m9$ by ! (f]1 at n infrequ5t int]vals1 ( pleasant luxuries t g d[n easily4 ,x is old-fa%ion$ & entirely wrong1 especially ) "y p1 to give !m only :at us$ to be t]m$ :olesome1 n\ri%+ food4 ,9 heal?y op5-air conditions ! body kn[s :at x wants1 & ! palate int]prets ! desire4 ,food t is n palatable or eat5 ) pleasure is ( little b5efit1 & cloy+ sug> comp\nds1 ! be/ muscle fuel1 become aga9 surpris+ly attractive4 ,aft] ! new regim5 has become a habit ! air & ! ex]cise w make almo/ any food welcome1 & at any "t2 b ev5 !n ! secret ( vig\r is /ill pl5ty ( sweet-/uffs4 ,"o ( ! small matt]s t contribute almo/ absurdly to ma9ta9+ ! good spirits ev5 ( a tra9$ p>ty is ! production at suitable or surpris+ mom5ts ( small indulg5ces--*ocolate1 rais9s1 pres]v$ fruit1 honey or sweet-meats4 ,!y weigh little1 b ! body's appreciation ( & response to diff]5ces ( food is exce$+ly f9e :5 x is mak+ great ex]tions1 & _! imm$iate effect ^u muscle & _s is z rapid z t ( /imulants 9 ord9>y life4 ,a :ole summ] t\r 9 a bad season ( s(t sn[ has be5 light5$ by a l>ge bag ( acid drops reappe>+ ea* day at we>y mom5ts ) a new delight4 ,9 ! pla9s ,i am myself a small & c>eless eat]4 ,b among my m\nta9e]+ memories days ( fi]ce sun-gl>e on int]m9able :ite passes /ill rema9 rosy ) ! recollection ( #8a raspb]ry-jam sn[' or gold5 ) ! cool gl[ ( a t9 ( yell[ plums scoop$ up ) ice-spl9t]s4 ,good managem5t w consid] no su* detail ( provision+ too small = att5tion4 ,& x is n suffici5t to ord]3 ea* bag or packet %\ld be op5$1 to see t ! ord] has be5 fully execut$1 be=e ! sacks are pack$4 ,sid5ote3 ,?ir/4 ,?ir/ is ano!r difficulty at ! beg9n+ ( a t\r4 ,to a l>ge ext5t su* ?ir/ is m]ely fev]i%2 x is impossible ( satisfaction1 & to indulge x swamps & upsets ! human ma*9]y4 ,"s resolute m51 to avoid ! delici\s temptation1 tra9 !mselves n to dr9k at all dur+ ! day2 & !n make x up 9 ! ev5+4 ,b a c]ta9 am\nt ( liquid is z ess5tial1 9 action1 z a c]ta9 am\nt ( food1 & ! mod]ate habit has to be acquir$ by practice4 ,! exact am\nt necess>y1 z di/+ui%$ f acceptable1 v>ies ) ! individual4 ,! m]ely fev]i% ?ir/ ( ! fir/ day c be dodg$ by lett+ wat] run ?r\gh ! m\?1 swall[+1 z a special indulg5ce1 only a m\?ful or s4 ,suck+ a prune-/one1 or ev5 a pebble1 keeps ! saliva fl[+ & is a consolation on hot sn[y tramps4 ,to ! same end1 ( prolong+ ! pleasant assuag+ process1 devices su* z sipp+ wat] sl[ly f a pe>l-%ell or cup cool to ! eye1 *ew+ orange peel1 suck+ a lemon or tea or w9e sl[ly ?r\gh lumps ( sug>1 or cru%+ a h&ful ( sn[ till x becomes an ice-pe> 9 ! h& & !n suck+ ! end ( x1 are all wor? rememb]+4 ,meat-f$ m5 d n require /rong /imulants4 ,a little w9e 9 ! wat]1 *ill$ by sn[1 is (t5 pleasant] to ! ta/e ?an wat] alone4 ,m\nta9 wat] has (t5 a flat flav\r ( cold /ones1 or recalls ! flask or p\* 9 :i* x has be5 c>ri$4 ,w9e removes ?is suspicion4 ,spirits %\ld be kept = a la/ res\rce1 = cases ( injury or collapse1 & !n us$ only if ! head is n affect$4 ,_! /imulus1 "u ! conditions ( climb+1 is too evanesc5t to be ( any s]vice2 ! reaction is almo/ imm$iate1 & ! result+ condition worse ?an be=e4 ,cold tea & cold c(fee are popul> bev]ages3 or ! juice ( _m lemons c be c>ri$ 9 a small alum9ium flask1 to mix ) ! *os5 bl5d4 ,sug> less5s ! qu5*+ p[]4 ,if sug> _c be disp5s$ )1 a lemon squeez$ into ! tea re/ores its effect ^u ! saliva-ducts ( ! m\?4 ,sn[1 cru%$ ice or wat] c be add$ z ! supply dim9i%es4 ,! dang] ( dr9k+ sn[ wat] is1 9 my view1 a sup]/ition disprov$ by exp]i5ce4 ,its suppos$ ill effects are usually to be trac$ to ! am\nt ( cold liquid actually consum$ r ?an to its "*4 ,"s m5 pref] to take _! liquid 9 ! =m ( sn[ spr9kl$ ov] any food !y eat4 ,?is is an excell5t way ( mak+ food ( all k9ds palatable 9 ! e>ly /ages ( a t\r1 :ile ! dis9cl9ation = solid food la/s4 ,a device t nev] fails to entice ev5 ! y\nge/ m\nta9e] pa/ ! clogg$-up #8c't eat' phase ( e>ly tra9+1 is to make a small holl[ 9 ! sn[1 empty a jam-t9 into x1 & mix ! jam ) loose sn[ into a fruit ice4 ,9 col\r1 flav\r & imm$iate effect x is "o ( ! few undisput$ additions t ! +5uity ( man has be5 able to make to ! *>ms ( ! m\nta9s4 ,a good manag] %\ld nev] fail to rem>k a man :o is con/antly /opp+ to dr9k at pass+ /reams4 ,sp>tan example 9 ab/95ce w d mu* to *eck him1 b if ?is fails1 he mu/ use 8 wits to sub/itute "o ( ! devices m5tion$1 s z to save ! man's int]ior )\t injur+ 8 feel+s by direct comm5t4 ,sid5ote3 ,smok+4 ,smok+ ,i believe to be a "q = p]sonal decision4 ,i h nev] f\nd ! mod]ate indulg5ce 9 pipes or cig>s affect w9d or tra9+ 9 ! slighte/ degree dur+ ! h>de/ days4 ,! rule t halts %\ld be few & %ort ensures mod]ation2 = smok+ dur+ actual climb+ is all b impossible4 ,"o fam\s m\nta9e] pref]s to light a pipe be=e any p>ticul>ly h>d problem1 b exp]im5t sugge/s t ! art is n wor? le>n+4 ,x is uncom=table = ! lungs & co/ly 9 pipe-/ems4 ,a pipe makes a good tempor>y sub/itute = food1 dr9k or sleep4 ,x com=ts _m cold mom5ts ( wait+ & makes a soo?+ c\nsellor 9 difficulties4 ,ability to smoke1 & consequ5tly to su/a9 8 "p 9 ! ef=tless sil5ce :i* *>act]izes ! true comrade%ip ( m\nta9e]+1 %\ld be among ! qualifications ( any climb+ companion4 ,sid5ote3 ,ailm5ts4 ,a manag]'s functions are precaution>y r ?an corrective4 ,x is well t he %\ld "k some?+ ( m$ical treatm5t & ( fir/ aid4 ,b advice "u ^! head+s is be/ obta9$ f ! _m good h&books4 ,f !m he w le>n h[ to use ! cont5ts ( ! pocket m$ical & surgical cases )\t :i* no p>ty %\ld ev] attempt to climb4 ,)\t trespass+ ^u _! special prov9ce1 !re are yet c]ta9 practical obs]vations & precautions :i* a manag] %\ld make & take z "p ( 8 r\t9e4 ,! read9ess or unread9ess = food1 & ! disposition to dr9k or ab/a9 betwe5 halts1 are useful indications ( ! ext5t to :i* a p>ty is com+ into condition1 & a lead] mu/ obs]ve !m & take !m into acc\nt 9 8 *oice & conduct ( ! next climb4 ,! desire to dr9k e>ly 9 ! morn+ is a sure sign t a man is slightly #8fev]i%1' or t he has n slept well1 & 8 condition mu/ be m5tally not$4 ,a sudd5 incl9ation to sleep at odd mom5ts usually means t ! n]ves are exhau/$ by "s %ock or by ov]-long /ra94 ,! desire to sleep %\ld be indulg$1 & a condition ( l[] vitality mu/ be tempor>ily all[$ =4 ,! slight trembl+ ( ! knee 9 ! t5sion ( climb+ t (t5 recurs at ! beg9n+ ( a t\r is1 ( c\rse1 only a purely muscul> sign t ! leg muscles are out ( tra9+4 ,x w pass 9 ! fir/ few days1 b x _c af=d to be entirely neglect$4 ,:ile he is liable to x no man %\ld be all[$ to lead a difficult passage4 ,_m m5 suff] at fir/ f viol5t heada*es above a c]ta9 height1 (t5 ) gidd9ess & an incl9ation to #8m\nta9' sickness4 ,?is occurs m p>ticul>ly on sn[2 usually x passes (f aft] ! fir/ few days1 z ! *anges ( altitude become cu/om>y4 ,9 ^! cases1 dur+ ! initial p]iod1 con/ant sup]vision is ne$$ 9 ! matt] ( food1 ( bodily regim51 & above all ( pace4 ,easy go+ is ! be/ precaution>y treatm5t4 ,wet h&k]*iefs r\nd ! head1 & b5d+ =w>d :il/ walk+1 s z to ease ! he>t's action1 (t5 af=d p>tial relief2 to c\gh1 or hold ! brea?1 gives a mom5t>y respite4 ,re/s are ( little use1 & (t5 increase ! pa94 ,! attack %\ld cease at ! p>ticul> l[] level :i* suits ! individual circulation4 ,if x p]si/s1 a hot ba? w cure x = ! night4 ,half ! sickness t s (t5 spoils climb+ or camp+ p>ties dur+ ! fir/ few days is due to an int]rupt$ or irregul> habit ( ! body1 su* z is impos$ by ! new topsy-turvy "t-table & ! unfav\r+ conditions ( liv+4 ,a lead] mu/ let no res]ve /& 9 8 way1 especially ) "y climb]s1 9 w>n+ aga9/ ?is risk or 9 secur+ its imm$iate correction4 ,fro/-bite is an insidi\s enemy3 x attacks "y p ( weak circulation )\t any w>n+ ( pa9 & at v %ort notice4 ,inexp]i5ce treats x z j a pass+ numbness & n wor? m5tion+4 ,i h kn[n only "o h\r's walk+ ov] cold autumn sn[1 on ! way up to a hut 9 ! ev5+1 to take all life out ( a h&2 & x took u ano!r h\r's h>d rubb+ to re/ore ! circulation4 ,!re %\ld always be sp>e gloves & socks 9 all ( ! sacks2 &1 until he kn[s 8 m51 a manag] %\ld insi/ ^u in/ant notice ( a f+] or toe t has #8no feel+ 9 x4' ,imm$iate & cont9u$ friction ) sn[ or br&y is ! rem$y2 b x mu/ be appli$ at once4 ,! limb affect$ %\ld be lift$ & kept up4 ,fires & w>m rooms %\ld be avoid$4 ,:5 f+]s or toes h once be51 if only p>tially1 t\*$1 !y are m liable to a return4 ,extra socks & gloves %\ld !n always be worn4 ,a mitt51 ) or )\t a glove1 is ( com=t :]e ! climb+ is too difficult to p]mit ( ! use ( #8f+]less' sn[-gloves4 ,cold is n only a dang] z x produces local *ills or fro/-bite1 x also has an imm$iate delet]i\s effect ^u ! g5]al climb+ p[] & confid5ce4 ,w9d1 9 ?is respect also1 is ! greate/ enemy ( ! climb]4 ,! muscles g5]ate _! own w>m?1 :i* is ! body's en]gy2 b once !y get *ill$ f outside by w9d or cold1 !y lose a great "p ( _! p[]4 ,a cold limb %\ld at once be rubb$2 &1 z a precaution1 clo!s %\ld always err on ! side ( be+ too ?ick r ?an too light4 ,! human body c endure great w9dless cold1 b little cold w9d4 ,) ! *ill+ ( ! muscles ! n]ve & w-p[] dim9i% also4 ,= ! reactions ( cold1 local & g5]al1 a lead] mu/ be always on ! wat*4 ,! sun has ?ree dang]s = inexp]i5ce4 ,sn[-bl9dness r>ely gives w>n+4 ,x is (t5 only pa9fully realiz$ on ! foll[+ day4 ,!re=e until a man kn[s ! p[] ( 8 eyes he %\ld use precaution & put on col\r$ or smok$ glasses :5 he sees ! fir/ fla% f ! prisms on glaci] or sn[-field4 ,b on rock col\r$ glasses are a great nuisance1 :]e !y are r>ely ne$$ h[ev] /rong ! gl>e4 ,aga91 9 trav]s+ sn[-cov]$ glaci] su* glasses are frequ5tly an int]ruption to ! obs]vation ( hidd5 crevasses4 ,fur!r1 exp]i5ce sugge/s t z _m z a qu>t] ( ^? n[ climb+ really require no protection at all4 ,= o!rs x w\ld be suffici5t to h _! eyes black5$ r\nd ) burnt cork4 ,= o!rs aga9 x w\ld be en\gh protection to we> cle> glasses ov] eyes s black5$4 ,exp]im5t alone w f9d our individual equation1 &1 un=tunately1 ! exp]im5t may (t5 be try+4 ,b x is "o well wor? mak+1 on suitable occasions1 = ! sake ( ! p]man5t ga9 if we f9d t glasses c be disp5s$ )4 ,if a man :o f9ds he ne$s glasses has =gott5 or lo/ !m1 a mask %\ld be made ( any piece ( pap]1 ) ! smalle/ possible slits = ! eyes4 ,he %\ld also black5 r\nd 8 eyes ) cork4 ,if only a s+le glass is brok51 a pap] or c>d1 ) a m9ute hole1 %\ld be ins]t$ 9 ! empty frame4 ,sun-bli/]+ is z p]man5t & excruciat+ 9 its consequ5ces z x is gradual 9 its attack4 ,x may be produc$ by ! direct sun-rays2 m sev]ely by light reflect$ f sn[ or wat] or diffus$ ?r\gh ?ick mi/2 less sev]ely by w9d & reflect$ light f rock or road4 ,grease is g5]ally useless z protection2 col\r salves1 z else:]e recomm5d$1 are ! only prev5tive4 ,x is to be not$ t ! facets ( ! face mo/ expos$ to ! reflection f ! sn[1 ! und]side ( ! nose1 ! lips & ! *eeks1 are usually giv5 an insuffici5t all[ance4 ,ba?+ 9 cold wat] is deadly1 especially to ! lips1 once ! sk9 has scor*$4 ,"o comp5sation = ! loss ( our complexion ) advanc+ ye>s is ! less5+ ( our susceptibility to ?is infliction4 ,sun/roke 9 a mild =m is con/antly mi/ak5 = m\nta9 sickness1 = 8poison+ at ! hotel10 & s on4 ,! sure/ precaution is to we> a loose h&k]*ief hang+ f ! hat1 to protect ! neck4 ,! coat-coll> c also be turn$ up4 ,x is excell5t1 on all sun-gl>+ days1 to make a habit ( fill+ ! holl[ 9 ! cr[n ( ! hat ) sn[1 &1 :5 x melts & trickles refre%+ly d[n1 ( r5ew+ ! sn[4 ,until m5 h got accu/om$ to be+ alt]nately bak$ & froz5 ?ree times a day1 !y h to be rem9d$ ( ^! & simil> small precautions4 ,9 ! ev5t ( slight sun-t\*es1 ice or wet clo?s1 %ade1 light food1 & no alcohol are ! local treatm5t4 ,pl5ty ( moi/ure outside & inside is ess5tial1 &1 z = all o!r ailm5ts1 re/4 ,sid5ote3 ,ba?+4 ,ba?+ 9 lake or /ream1 or ev5 9 glaci] pools1 is "o ( ! mo/ p]fect rew>ds ( m\nta9e]+ ef=t4 ,9 ! v e>ly morn+ or at a night-/>t x is n advisable1 z x *ecks ! necess>y bus9ess ( gett+ ! bodily ma*9]y work+2 nor is x (t5 desir$ at ^! h\rs4 ,dur+ ! day1 ! incl9ation at great heights =tunately appe>s to dim9i%1 co9cid5t ) ! disappe>ance ( ! opportunities to indulge x4 ,:5 ! human ma*9e is c5tr+ all its p[]s on ! cont9uance ( a s+le exceptional ef=t1 x has an in/9ctive %r9k+ f submitt+ itself to processes1 h[ev] delightful1 t w int]f]e ) ?is conc5tration4 ,re/ is a necess>y int]ruption & mu/ be suff]$1 b %ort exposures ( ! body to hot sunlight ^u cold rocks1 or 9 cold] wat]1 9 mo/ cases d u m h>m by produc+ a g5]al relaxation ?an !y b5efit u by _! mom5t>y refre%m5t4 ,b :5 ! ma9 ef=t ( ! day is pa/1 & ! body has no fe> ( call+ out its la/ res]ves1 ! ba! on ! desc5t is an indescribable delight & refre%m5t4 ,we may h /ill "s way to g1 b to p]=m ?is we %all h1 9 any case1 to summon up our en]gies afre%2 & at su* natural mom5ts ( int]ruption ! brac+ impetus ( a ba! w help to regulate our circulation anew & to /ore m9d & n]ves ) new en]gy = ! new comm5cem5t4 ,we climb = pleasure2 & :5 body & m9d are work+ 9 h>mony ! pleasures our m9d sugge/s are g5]ally ! rem$ies or relaxations our body ne$s4 ,if no wat] is to be f\nd1 to get rid ( ! /uff9ess ( alp9e clo!s1 & to give all ! sk9 surfaces a ba? ( air & sunlight1 is only "o degree less pleasant or /imulat+ ?an a ba! 9 wat] itself4 ,caution at ! same "t is necess>y 9 enc\rag+ m51 & especially "y p1 ( ^: circulation or he>t we may h d\bts1 to risk ! int5sely cold %ock ( glaci] wat] ^u bak$ & sun-conge/$ surfaces4 ,x is p]haps wor? rememb]+ t ! risk ( actual *ill is great] dur+ ! process ( dry+ 9 cold air or w9d aft] a ba! 7always a l5g?y process 9 ! t[el-less ,alps7 ?an dur+ ! ba! itself4 ,x is unpleasant = ! "t1 b f> w>m] 9 feel & aft] effect1 to put on clo!s )\t wait+ to get dry4 ,m9ute att5tion to su* details ( provision+1 heal?1 & regim5 c be relax$ z a p>ty ( m5 comes into tra9+ & beg9s to "k its bus9ess1 b x %\ld nev] be entirely discont9u$4 ,"o day's c>elessness 9 revis+ ! food1 or ! disreg>d ( a cold toe1 a bli/]1 or a #8bad night1' may at any "t upset ! plans ( a :ole t\r4 ,sid5ote3 ,"y ,folk4 ,9 ! managem5t ( boys & girls bel[ tw5ty-two or s1 x is impossible to ex]cise too mu* c>e4 ,boys especially1 ^: activity dep5ds ^u ! impulse ( _! int]e/ & r>ely settles to an automatic rhy?m1 may #8%ut up' ) />tl+ sudd5ness1 bo? m5tally & physically4 ,nor c our obs]vation tell u = c]ta9 be=eh& :5 !y are really beg9n+ to draw ^u _! res]ves ( vitality1 or :5 !y are only gett+ bor$4 ,!y h no conception ( economy 9 _! movem5t1 s long z ! impulse ( excitem5t la/s4 ,z ! int]e/ ( a climb dim9i%es1 on ! ev5+ tramp or ! prolong$ sn[ slope1 _! m5tal vivacity may die d[n1 & ) x ends _! en]gy4 ,at su* times1 if !y h n be5 all[$ actually to exhau/ _! physical /r5g?1 !y w revive z rapidly 9 response to a new m5tal /imulus1 ( talk1 or sight1 or v>i$ ex]tion4 ,9 _! case x is ! m9d t calls = fir/ att5tion & fir/ aid4 ,girls move less on spr+s & m by rhy?m4 ,_! activity is less reflective ( ext]nal /imulus1 & less dep5d5t ^u m5tal impulse = its cont9uance4 ,!y h n ! boy's natural arm\r ( n]v\s s5sibility aga9/ ov]work4 ,x is1 !re=e1 m possible 9 _! case to wat* ! degree ( positive physical fatigue 9 outw>d signs1 & to anticipate m exactly ! mom5t ( exhau/ion by suitable measures4 ,?\gh _! endurance is on ! :ole great] ?an t ( boys1 or at lea/ fluctuates less 9 proportion to ! am\nt ( m5tal di/raction or int]e/ pres5t 9 ! physical ef=t1 ! effects ( ov]-fatigue are m la/+4 ,) bo? boys & girls1 ! only safe precaution is to all[ v broad m>g9s ( "t & di/ance1 to select climbs :i* bo? 9 difficulty & l5g? %all be well )9 ! p[]s ( "y gr[+ bodies1 & above all n to be induc$ by ! suppl5ess ( y\? or its mom5t>y en?usiasm to make exceptions #8j ?is once' to s\nd g5]al rules4 ,sid5ote3 ,prev5table ,hum\rs4 ,! influ5ce ( ! m9d ^u ! body has its special conc]n = m\nta9e]+ managem5t4 ,an a?letic body1 if x be n]v\sly con/itut$1 may be z susceptible ( fatigue aft] two h\rs' walk+ on a dull road z aft] twelve h\rs on an excit+ asc5t4 ,m5tal di/raction is z important z *ange ( movem5t = ! easy p]=mance ( su/a9$ physical ef=t4 ,m\nta9e]+ owes = ?is reason to its inf9ite v>iety ( motion & int]e/ a record ( feats ( %e] endurance su* z no o!r human pursuit or sport has excell$4 ,b n all m\nta9e]s are consci\s ( _! debt to ?is peculi> virtue ( ! hills1 or all[ suffici5tly = its full enjoym5t 9 mak+ _! plans4 ,f> m ?an any muscul> /r5g? or ev5 physical fitness1 w-p[] is ! dom9ant =ce 9 ma9ta9+ normal en]gy & 9 subdu+ abnormal accidi1 to :i* ref]5ce is made lat]4 ,! lead] is mo/ effici5t :o c be/ protect 8 p>ty aga9/ influ5ces t irritate ! n]ves & s int]f]e ) ! p[] or desire to br+ ! w into play4 ,m5 bor$1 m5 irritat$1 m5 disappo9t$1 m5 ov]wr\ght1 )\t pleasure 9 retrospect or prospect to refre% !m1 lose ! wi% to ?r[ (f _! mood4 ,x is aga9/ ! causes ( bor$om1 ! effects ( exaltation or ( disappo9tm5t1 t ! lead] has to take 8 precautions4 ,if1 9 spite ( him1 ! moods are creat$1 he mu/ be ready1 9 anticipation1 to provide "s rem$y ( di/raction t c release ! w f ! oppression ( ! n]ves & associate x 9 ! ef=t to ma/] ! mood4 ,ext]nal di/ractions are ! mo/ effective4 ,! al>m ( fire has be5 kn[n to bani% rheumatism or p>alysis2 ! s\nd ( an avalan*e electrifies a twi/$ ankle into pa9less activity2 ! sight ( ! hotel r\nd ! corn] cures exhau/ion l a cold d\*e2 an +5i\s conv]sational op5+ w c>ry a limp+ b& ov] unconsci\s miles ( extra ef=t4 ,any?+ t = ! mom5t c release ! consci\sness f its ov]-ma/]+ n]v\s affection1 n]v\s 9 effect h[ev] physical 9 orig91 enables ! w to recov] control ( ! muscles4 ,^! ext]nal provocations excite /ates ( ang]1 int]e/ or al>m :olly diff]5t 9 "* & effect f passive /ates ( irritation & ob/9acy :i* are produc$ by ! reaction f an int]nal consci\sness ( fatigue4 ,a lead] w welcome !m1 9 fact1 z antidotes to _! app>5tly k9dr$ hum\rs4 ,sid5ote3 ,bor$om4 ,x may be assum$ t a mod]n lead] w n make ! elem5t>y1 al?\gh traditional1 blund] ( tak+ beg9n]s or "y p or wom5 = _! fir/ exp$ition ^u ! we>9ess ( sn[ trudges1 su* z ! traditional fir/ t\r up ! ,z]matt ,brei?orn4 ,b ev5 ) an exp]t p>ty he has to rememb] t bor$om is "o ( 8 *ief enemies4 ,monoton\s sn[ slopes1 long mora9es be=e dawn1 long zigzags on ! pa? :5 ! excitem5t ( ! day is ov]1 make an undue call ^u ! w1 su* z sugge/s fatigue to ! m9d be=e ! muscles are really exhau/$4 ,!y are "p ( ! day's "w1 b !y put a /ra9 ^u ! temp] ( an untra9$ p>ty t is m wisely avoid$4 ,) ! same dang] 9 view1 a lead]1 :ile he insi/s on e>ly />ts1 %\ld n give 8 p>ty too mu* to d be=e daylight4 ,m5 )\t guides lose endless "t1 en]gy1 &1 worse /ill1 temp] & tone 9 los+ _! way & _! foot+ on ! prelim9>y pa?s & glaci]s 9 ! d>k4 ,x is bett] to />t an h\r lat]1 & recov] half ( x f ! easi]1 sur] go+ ( daylight progress4 ,b be/ ( all = a guideless p>ty is to rea* ! inn1 hut or biv\ac 9 suffici5t "t ! ev5+ be=e to all[ !m to make ?or\ghly sure ( _! next morn+'s d>k exit f ! mazy /reets & fields1 or ( ! easy r\te on to & ?r\gh ! ne>] glaci]4 ,m5 are irritable en\gh 9 ! d>k1 & if !y _c get go+ at once to a sure rhy?m on a c]ta9 r\te1 _! h>mony ( movem5t & mood may be impair$ = half or all ( a day4 ,( ! means ( meet+ ! special bor$om peculi> to sn[ tramps1 some?+ is said "u ,sn[ ,craft4#c ,sid5ote3 ,ov]-excitem5t4 ,dur+ ! e>ly days ( a t\r1 on ! o!r h&1 !re is always ! contr>y possibility to gu>d aga9/1 t ! m]e excitem5t & novel s5sation ( meet+ difficulty may urge m5 beyond _! /r5g? & conceal f !m t ! limit ( _! endurance is already cross$4 ,:5 ! n]v\s t5sion is ov]1 physical exhau/ion sets 9 v sudd5ly4 ,! situation is awkw>d to deal )2 b physical crises are def9ite & yield to def9ite rem$ies4 ,! sympa?y & ef=ts ( ! :ole p>ty are at once conc5trat$ ^u ! victim4 ,fatigue is lo/ sight ( 9 ! great] common ne$ & ! supreme ef=t = :i* x calls4 ,! individual may suff]1 b ! tone ( ! p>ty1 if any?+1 pr(its4 ,! lead] may take com=t 9 ?is ?\ght1 & also 9 ! fact t ev5 if a climb turns out un=ese5ly s5sational1 x has none ! less to be c>ri$ ?r\gh1 & t !re is "s cause = 8 gratitude if undue excitem5t w help to su/a9 a weak] memb] ( 8 p>ty ov] ! s]i\s "p ( ! day1 ev5 at ! exp5se ( an (f-day on ! morr[4 ,! effects ( fatigue f m5tal sugge/ion or bor$om ^u temp]1 w &1 ultimately1 en]gy are less prev5table4 ,!y t5d to divide a p>ty socially & to make !m irritable1 c>elessly reckless1 or ob/9ately languid4 ,m5tal tonics1 di/ractions & talk are less easily adm9i/]$ ?an help+ h&s4 ,b a lead]1 :atev] 8 own /ate1 has to pull himself toge!r to anticipate or to meet ! occasion1 & use all 8 tact to di/ract att5tion & create a new int]e/ 9 any?+ b ! individual consci\sness ( fatigue4 ,,lead]%ip ,,9 ,,action ,! manag] z lead] has a special responsibility to himself4 ,he is ! /roke ( ! p>ty4 ,l a good /roke1 :ile ex]t+ himself to ! utmo/1 he has always to keep "s /r5g?1 n]v\s & physical1 9 res]ve1 to meet a sudd5 em]g5cy or to vitalize unexpect$ly depress+ h\rs ( dull return4 ,z a duty to ! p>ty he %\ld save himself by mak+ use ( ! /rong] memb]s1 %\ld !re be any1 to take some?+ ( 8 %>e ( ! m labori\s & less vital lab\r4 ,a p>ty :i* kn[s 8 value z res]ve & managem5t w save him1 = in/ance1 "s "p ( 8 portion 9 ! "w ( c>ry+1 ( lead+ 9 s(t sn[1 or ( easy /ep-cutt+4 ,!y too mu/ recognize he has always to keep some?+ 9 res]ve = a crisis4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,collective ,confid5ce4 ,at ! same "t1 no matt] :at ! crisis or 8 private d\bts1 he mu/ nev] appe>1 if he c possibly help x1 to h call$ out 8 la/ res]ves1 or to be feel+ any dim9i%$ confid5ce 9 8 own ability1 or 9 t ( 8 p>ty1 to =ce a successful issue4 ,he mu/1 too1 avoid my/]y4 ,no?+ is m n]ve-try+ 9 critical mom5ts1 to m5 ^: exp]i5ce _c measure ! ext5t ( a crisis1 ?an t5se sil5ce or too obvi\s self-control on ! "p ( ^? :o c4 ,x is bett]1 if ! situation is g5u9ely s]i\s1 to br+ x d[n to a human level by bl[+ (f a few words ( viol5t commonplace expletive1 ?an to leave x 9 t daunt+ remot5ess ( gravity = :i* words are inadequate4 ,! m crucial ! occasion1 ! m does ! n]ve ( ! p>ty c5tre 9 ! lead]4 ,_! confid5ce 9 8 confid5ce is a m important asset ?an _! confid5ce 9 8 skill4 ,! comb9$ ability ( a p>ty1 ea* "o confid5t 9 ! o!rs & reliev$ ( individual responsibility by 8 s5se ( ! g5]al confid5ce1 goes fur!r t[>ds success 9 ! solution ( difficulties or ! repulse ( dang] ?an ! brilliant indep5d5t success :i* any "o individual 9 x c\ld a*ieve by reliance on 8 s+le skill & n]ve4 ,= ?is confid5ce ! lead] is ! focus1 & an important decision1 su* z ! resolve to advance or retreat 9 a giv5 crisis1 %\ld be guid$ by 8 e/imate ( ! am\nt ( confid5t capacity repres5t$ by ! p>ty at ! mom5t1 & n m]ely by 8 op9ion z to 8 own p[] to =ce ! passage z an individual4 ,if he decides to turn back on a climb1 he %\ld take ! odium ( ! decision )\t fe> ( lat] criticism4 ,he knew or felt :at ! collective ability ( ! p>ty 0 at ! "t 9 relation to ! ef=t dem&$1 & x is unimportant :at an individual may aft]w>ds ?9k might h be5 8 own *ances ( ov]com+ ! p>ticul> difficulty 8_h he be5 all[$ to try40 ,if he cont9ues ! climb1 ) ! same consci\sness advis+ him1 x mu/ be 8 object to bett] ! *ances ( success by /imulat+ ! exi/+ confid5ce into t *e]ful hum\r 9 :i* m5 d _! skill mo/ ju/ice4 ,sid5ote3 ,keep+ ,t\*4 ,to keep 9 t\* ) e "o ( a p>ty ( fri5ds1 s z to cont9ue aw>e ( ! way 9 :i* _! m9ds & _! bodies are be+ affect$ by ! circum/ances1 is n easy4 ,on sev]e climbs x is all b impossible to prev5t ! re> m51 sep>at$ by l5g?s ( rope & int]ruptions ( difficult gr\nd1 f rema9+ 9 ignorance ( :at is be+ done 9 front1 or ( :at is guid+ ! *oice ( problems :i* !y are expect$ 9 _! turn to surm\nt4 ,= ?is reason x is helpful to break ! habit ( sil5ce :i* falls ^u m5 deal+ ) s]i\s "w1--& :i*1 l ! incl9ation to :isp] 9 a d>k room1 seems to h beh9d x "s primitive feel+ ( fe> ( provok+ fur!r att5tion f unse5 b v pres5t =ces1--& talk d[n ! rope occasionally1 pass+ "q & answ] up & d[n1 & *e]+ ! tail ) a r5ew$ feel+ ( unity & confid5ce drawn f ! confid5ce ( ! lead]4 ,) ! same object 9 view1 :]ev] ! climb all[s x1 ! p>ty %\ld be all[$ to collect = a mom5t & =get 9 talk ! depression or d\bt inevitable to solitude1 be=e ! lead]s />t aga94 ,guides are great (f5d]s 9 ?is respect4 ,!y h no conception ( ! extra =ce giv5 by a s+le unit$ consci\sness to a p>ty1 ( ! means to keep 9 t\* ) x1 or ( ! help !y !mselves may draw f x4 ,!y climb absorb$ly ahead lo/ 9 ! s5se ( _! own responsibility4 ,consequ5tly !y (t5 turn back1 f a d\bt ( _! p>ty or a lack ( confid5ce to c>ry a climb ?r\gh on _! s+le responsibility1 on occasions :]e a good amateur lead]1 ) or )\t guides1 c feel himself ju/ifi$ 9 proce$+4 ,he is 9 a position to take ! ev5 *ance ( a turn ( wea!r1 ( ! possibility ( a return at a lat] & m unpleasant /age1 ( ! cross+ ( an expos$ c\loir or ! asc5t ( a sn[ or ice slope d[n :i* !re may be no safe return1 because he is confid5t 9 8 k ( ! condition ( 8 p>ty1 ( _! conc]t$ action & res]ves ( /r5g? & *e]fulness1 & feels t ^! are suffici5t to c>ry !m ov] ! possible *ances ( worse wea!r or m try+ conditions1 & to lead !m ?r\gh a long] day to a lat] desc5t ev5 by ano!r l9e4 ,he has to e>n 8 "r to 8 m confid5t decision 9 ?us mat*+ 8 m5 aga9/ ! m\nta9 by supplem5t+ 8 s+le m\nta9e]+ exp]i5ce & in/9ct fir/ly by 8 precaution>y c>e = _! condition & hum\r1 & secondly by 8 ability to keep 9 close t\* ) _! collective capacity at any & e mom5t4 ,8 rew>d w be _! increas+ confid5ce 9 !mselves1 9 him1 & 9 _! unit$ /r5g?1 & ! increas+ p[] :i* ?is br+s ) x4 ,sid5ote3 ,temp]4 ,a m\nta9e]+ p>ty1 :5 9 action1 is dep5d5t = its good-hum\r$ & he>ty co-op]ation on m ?an ! ext]nal int]e/s ( ! climbs1 h[ev] well select$ be=eh& & su/a9$1 on m ev5 ?an its good heal? & food1 h[ev] well c>$ =4 ,x has to be weld$ into a f9e in/rum5t3 its temp] is its /r5g?2 & its temp] has to be kept at j ! "r heat4 ,hot words on occasions w d x little h>m4 ,m5 9 a /ate ( primitive well-be+ are apt to become elem5tal 9 temp]4 ,a sudd5 crisis sets (f a %[] ( sp>ks ( language4 ,^! d no h>m4 ,no exp]i5c$ man looks ^u !m z p]sonally direct$1 or rememb]s !m :5 ! crisis is pa/4 ,:at has really to be gu>d$ aga9/ is ! effect ( monotony 9 any =m1 ev5 ! irritat+ repetition ( "s small unconsci\s p]sonal trick4 ,slight res5tm5ts become magnifi$ grotesquely dur+ ! long h\rs ( sil5t ef=t1 especially ( monoton\s ef=t1 on sn[1 glaci]s or pa?4 ,any ord9>y m\nta9e] w probably rememb] occasions :5 "s trifl+ habit ( a good fri5d1 "s un9t5tional or mom5t>y lack ( consid]ation1 has tak5 advantage ( ! dull end+ ( a /r5u\s day to come back ^u him irresi/ibly1 & fill him unacc\ntably ) sull5 gr[+ res5tm5t4 ,he may realize its fooli%ness1 b1 l ! simil> insi/5ce ( ! refra9 ( "s silly comic song1 x becomes "p ( ! me*anical movem5t 9 :i* 8 :ole be+ is = ! "t absorb$4 ,if he has be5 =tunate en\gh to escape su* an attack himself1 he mu/ at times h be5 aw>e ( ! dang]\s electricity accumulat+ 9 "s "o or o!r ( ! memb]s ( a tir$ p>ty4 ,x is ! commone/ symptom ( fatigue4 ,a manag] has to look out = ?is4 ,its consci\sness w disappe> ) ! sight ( ! hotel door1 & be secretly regrett$ on ! morr[1 b 9 ! meantime he has to prev5t ! un=gettable be+ said4 ,sil5ce is 8 *ief enemy4 ,x is useless to try & tempt tir$ m51 usually tramp+ 9 s+le file1 into agreeable conv]sation1 unless "s happy accid5t ( ! way re/s ! m9d ) a new di/raction1 b he has to seize any desp]ate occasion = casual rem>ks4 ,x does n signify :at he *att]s1 provid$ he is n inappropriately *e]ful1 & %[s himself at lea/ to be completely & seem+ly idiotically unconsci\s ( any /ra9 9 ! situation4 ,ev5 if he draws ! dis*>ge ( temp] on himself1 he has av]t$ all s]i\s dang]4 ,song is ! be/ outlet s9ce x fits 9 ) ! me*anical movem5t :ile x )draws att5tion f x2 b song c only be employ$ :5 ! gr\nd all[s ( ! feet mov+ 9 accord4 ,if he himself is "o ( ! two betwe5 :om "o ( ^! sm\ld]+ irritations is gett+ om9\sly ov]*>g$ 9 ! sil5ce1 he has a h>d] task4 ,b he w h 8 rew>d if he c sacrifice 8 own hum\r to 8 s5se ( responsibility4 ,!re is no?+ m refre%+ to an irritat$ man :o has succe$$1 at la/1 9 =c+ himself to make a suitably casual & unconsci\s rem>k1 ?an to wat* ! visible ef=ts ( 8 fri5d1 sudd5ly depriv$ ( 8 sure conviction t ! res5tm5t 0 mutually consci\s1 to pull himself hurri$ly toge!r & answ] 9 ! light] key4 ,bo? m5 are s fully aw>e t _! savage hum\r is ungr\nd$ & absurd1 t nei!r wi%es to appe> to be left alone 9 8 folly4 ,temp] is ! "o p]man5t p]il to all climb+ p>ties1 & x is nev] all[$ = suffici5tly1 or op5ly treat$ 9 its true "* z a l>gely physical ph5om5on4 ,m5 :o h to live long toge!r at great heights1 z 9 ! ,himalaya1 or 9 great solitudes1 z at sea1 "k t its outbreaks are practically uncontrollable1 & _m an exp$ition has fail$ on its acc\nt alone4 ,x is be/ to treat x frankly z a necess>y cont+5cy1 & to take ! only two precautions possible3 ! "o1 to make sure t ! m5 "k "o ano!r well en\gh to accept ea* o!r's abusive outbur/s z a sick mood1 to be answ]$ 9 l mann]1 if !y w1 b n to be rememb]$2 & ! o!r1 to impress on !m t x is ! ke5 edge ( sil5t res5tm5t or s>casm t leaves p]man5t sc>s1 & t blunt abuse or invective1 obvi\sly uncontroll$1 cle>s ! air l an electric /orm1 & c be safely c\nt]$ by retort z noisy & sup]ficial4 ,x is sup]flu\s1 no d\bt1 to make ^! sugge/ions = :at may be call$ ! social conduct ( a climb+ t\r4 ,b fri5ds1 because !y are good fri5ds1 are apt to reckon too little ) ! sev]e /ra9 put ^u comrade%ip by ! circum/ances ( _! m\nta9 association4 ,p]sonality is tri$ by ! realities ( m\nta9e]+ 9 deadly e>ne/3 y\r good comrade 9 ! hills is a v diff]5t man f y\r pleasant neighb\r at ! m\nta9e]+ d9n]4 ,& j z !re is no comrade%ip t c gr[ s intimate or la/+ z t ( m5 :o h climb$ long toge!r1 & fac$ dea?1 /orm1 fatigue1 success & failure 9 company1 s !re is no compact :i* %\ld be ent]$ ^u1 ) m precaution1 or protect$ ) m s$ul\s c>e 9 ! trifles ( its daily r\t9e4 ,unless x be to m5 :om he is def9itely initiat+ into ! pursuit1 a lead] %\ld n give advice or make direct sugge/ions2 9 fact1 ! less he fusses or appe>s to be consci\sly sett+ ! tone1 ! bett]4 ,!re is nobody s tiresome1 9 daily contact1 z "s "o :o is con/antly be+ *e]ful or tactful or manag+4 ,example is ! lead]'s m$ium = correction1 9 hum\r z 9 action4 ,he mu/ see to x t no loophole is left = discord1 9 small arrangem5ts z 9 small talk4 ,= ?is reason x is helpful to let ea* man look aft] "s dep>tm5t3 "o to see to ! ropes1 ano!r to ! dr9ks1 & s on2 b x is a mi/ake ev] to rem9d a man ( 8 duty to ! p>ty4 ,managem5t is ! lead]'s bus9ess 9 ! end2 & he %\ld see to any omission himself r ?an sugge/ =getfulness by a criticism4 ,simil>ly1 z an in/ance1 9 deal+ ) a =eign language1 ) a new hotel or ) a new guide1 ! negotiation %\ld be entru/$ to "o alone4 ,he may be *aff$ aft]w>ds1 b n int]rupt$ at ! "t4 ,x is feeble 9 effect & r humiliat+ to see1 z "o (t5 does1 two or m s$ate ,engli%m5 effusively answ]+ a head wait] 9 *orus1 or treat+ any rem>k t has to be made 9 a =eign language1 say to ! guide1 z an occasion = a collective ass]tion ( individual capacity to speak ) tongues & ( equal "r to use !m 9 giv+ ord]s4 ,aga91 z a small in/ance ( :at ,i mean1 !re %\ld be no "q ( comp>+ ! weights ( respective sacks be=e a climb4 ,x is assum$ t ea* man w c>ry :at he c4 ,if a man is a poor c>ri] & int5tionally light5s 8 p]sonal luggage1 x is a blund] on all c\nts to ask him to c>ry m ?an he (f]s to take ( ! common provisions4 ,x may s]i\sly h&icap him1 & w c]ta9ly hurt 8 feel+s4 ,z an exception1 h[ev]1 s9ce x is no reflection on 8 comrade%ip1 a man :o is f\nd to be con/antly c>ry+ m ?an 8 %>e may be *eck$ = 8 own physical good4 ,!re are a few m5 :o by developm5t & disposition are unhappy unless heavily weight$4 ,!y may be indulg$1 especially ) ! *>ge ( ! agreeable extra luxuries4 ,once he has got 8 p>ty />t$1 fit & f$1 & ) no failure or dispute 9 arrangem5t or hum\r t may give room = lat] discom=t or irritation1 ! manag] has to be especially on ! wat* = ! diff]5t effects on 8 m5 ( ! h\rs be=e dawn & ( ! h\rs ( ev5+ return4 ,! habit ( talk+ be=e sunrise %\ld be tacitly disc\rag$4 ,mo/ m5 are incl9$ to surl9ess 9 ! e>ly d>k h\rs1 :i* w disappe> ) ! sun & improv$ circulation4 ,sil5ce at ?is p]iod is fraught ) no dang]s :i* ! beg9n+ ( active climb+ w n remove4 ,dur+ ^! e>ly h\rs m9d & n]ves & muscles h got to r$iscov] _! h>moni\s work+ = ! ex]tions ( ! day4 ,_! process ( adju/m5t %\ld n1 !re=e1 be di/ract$4 ,9 ! morn+ me*anical action & ! automatic reflexes h to be re-e/abli%$1 & ! m9d has to be induc$ to co-op]ate4 ,9 ! ev5+1 z has be5 %[n1 :5 me*anical action t5ds to deg5]ate into monotony1 & muscul> & n]v\s fatigue become ma/] ( ! m9d1 an exactly contr>y l9e ( action 9 managem5t is necess>y1 & ! m9d has to be help$ to escape f ! infection & to reass]t its indep5d5ce by int5tional di/raction4 ,sid5ote3 ,abnormal ,moods4 ,b !re are c]ta9 abnormal /ates1 un=ese5 b inevitable effects ( ! direct action ( m\nta9 incid5t ^u n]ve1 h>mony & en]gy1 :i* on occasion mu/ be met1 & :i* %\ld !re=e be m5tion$4 ,ap>t f prev5table physical exhau/ion1 & ! languor & ill-hum\r produc$ by bor$om1 !re are sev]al conditions ( m9d :i* may evilly affect ! p[] ( a p>ty1 & = v>y+ l5g?s ( "t4 ,sid5ote3 ,reaction4 ,on ! fir/ spl5did gl[ ( success1 :5 ! difficult asc5t has end$ triumphantly on ! summit1 !re foll[s a phase ( complete relaxation1 ( surr5d] to ! simple realization ( re/ & physical enjoym5t4 ,x is a p]iod ( indescribable s5sations1 ( imag9ation run riot1 & ( w & self-control alike 9 abeyance4 ,:5 ! subsequ5t desc5t is begun x is at fir/1 = _m m51 a matt] ( real difficulty to recov] complete control ( _! ma*9]y1 & = ! lead] to recon/itute ! diff]5t individuals into a s+le work+ unit4 ,= a "t ! pace mu/ be dim9i%$1 & ! c>e r$\bl$4 ,precautions1 ( remon/rance & d\bl$ ropes & mov+ s+ly1 none ( !m possibly necess>y 9 ! same place ) ! p>ty 9 work+ ord] mu/ be put into =ce1 until ! normal condition is rega9$4 ,! assumption t ! /ate ( m9d makes no diff]5ce1 & t a p>ty c desc5d z securely ! f9al slopes t x rac$ up light-he>t$ly 9 ! brac+ mom5t ( success1 is all too commonly made1 & only too frequ5tly regrett$4 ,sid5ote3 ,disappo9tm5t4 ,if success has its %ort foll[+ p]iod ( dang]1 disappo9tm5t has a long] & m insidi\s effect4 ,h[ev] necess>y or admitt$ly correct ! decision to turn back may h be51 ! disappo9tm5t works aft]w>ds1 (t5 unconsci\sly1 ^u ea* individual1 z he realizes 8 wa/$ ef=t & envisages 8 fatigue1 ) n[ no excitem5t or brac+ ( hope to c\nt]act x4 ,s come disc\ragem5t1 & c>eless tread+1 & a res5tful attitude t[>ds precautions & manuvres :i* no long] h any triumphant object z _! excuse4 ,any weakness 9 condition or hum\r w gr[ d\bly app>5t at su* a "t2 & z ! disappo9tm5t is equally pres5t 9 all m9ds1 x is impossible to pret5d unconsci\sness ( x1 & (t5 va9 to attempt to raise ! atmosph]e by a c\nt]feit ( *e]fulness4 ,m5tal & social tonics are = ! "t alike useless4 ,! condition has to be accept$ z an indisputable l[]+ ( tone1 :i* 9 its effects w prejudice ! physical capacity ( ! p>ty 9 _m subtle ways4 ,s9ce 9 ?is "o case he _c *eck ! evil influ5ce at its s\rce 9 ! m9d1 ! lead] mu/ employ e concrete m\nta9e]+ device to prev5t its endang]+ ! actual safety4 ,he mu/ br+ out all 8 res]ves ( _s & te*nique to keep ! p>ty conc5trat$ on ! mom5t>y details ( _! desc5t1 & r$\ble 8 own activities 9 ord] to anticipate or correct any slip or mi/ake t ! l[]$ tone may induce4 ,on su* occasions he c look himself = no relaxation ( ef=t or release f anxiety until ! rope is (f at la/ & ! safe pa? rega9$1 no matt] h[ little consci\s 8 p>ty may l to %[ !mselves individually ( any depreciation 9 _! skill or good-w4 ,sid5ote3 ,ov]-confid5ce4 ,equally difficult to deal )1 & f> m frequ5t 9 its appe>ance1 is ! /ate ( m9d to :i* mo/ m\nta9e]s are subject--& guides also--:o h accompli%$ a great climb successfully & are retrac+ ! comp>atively easy passages ( ! l[] ridges1 glaci]s & tracks4 ,consci\s ( _! successful p]=mance1 confid5t 9 _! skill & unwe>i$ muscles1 intoxicat$ by air & ef=t & =tune1 !y are unaw>e ( fatigue1 & ! easi] gr\nd lulls _! judgm5t into a condition ( fatali/ic confid5ce1 almo/ ( exaltation4 ,dang]1 obvi\s & imm$iate1 has become famili>1 & has be5 safely avoid$2 !y c neglect its ?reat :5 x is n s pres5t4 ,!y jump ! b]gs*rund r ?an look = ! bridge2 !y *ance ! unse5 rock foo?old r ?an lose "t 9 us+ ! d\bl$ rope2 !y glissade ! loose sn[ slope & scorn its possible avalan*e2 ! rope hamp]s !m1 x is tak5 (f2 & recklessly self-reliant1 a reliance t success has fool$ !m into ?9k+ ju/ifi$1 !y ru% ! risks ( hidd5 crevasses on ! glaci]1 ( false /eps or loose /ones on ! easy ridges1 ) an ab&on t x w make !m %udd] ! next day to recall4 ,ev5 ! l[] zigzag pa? to ! valley is a dang] 9 su* a condition ( m9d4 ,safe z ,rott5 ,r[ = ! sure foot1 x has a doz5 times prov$ a fatal trap = ! /umble ( fatigue or ! c>eless sw+ ( ov]-confid5ce4 ,few m5 c look back on a long m\nta9e]+ record )\t rememb]+ "s su* ev5+s ( m\nta9 madness2 & :ile !y blu% 7let u hope7 ev5 9 memory at _! folly1 !y may wi% !y _h _h "s cool lead] to call !m1 grumbl+1 to _! s5ses4 ,= :ile reaction & disappo9tm5t reflect at once ^u ! vitality1 l[]+ ! tone &1 l a flat liquor1 (f]+ little *ance ( reanimation1 ov]-confid5ce is an eff]vesc5ce1 an ov]fl[ ( spirits1 :i* c be m easily regulat$ by apt manipulation4 ,! lead] mu/ take control1 %>ply & /eadily4 ,he has little to fe> f ! effect ( 8 int]f]5ce ^u a p>ty 9 su* spirits2 any res5tm5t w be tempor>y1 & 8 own lab\r1 ( repress+ & direct+ a surplus ( en]gy1 w be f> less ?an 9 ! cases :]e1 z has be5 %[n1 he may h to provide a /imulus or ev5 a sub/itute = its abs5ce4 ,!re is an insidi\s dang] common to all ^! m5tal /ates4 ,z "o ( a p>ty work+ toge!r1 a lead] mu/ rememb] t he himself is subject to infection f a collective mood4 ,he may consid] t 8 confid5t action on occasion is entirely individual & calculat$2 or1 aga91 he may be c]ta9 t 8 resolution to retreat repres5ts only 8 own unbias$ judgm5t2 & 9 ei!r case he may be puzzl$ lat] to acc\nt = an obvi\s error4 ,he mu/ le>n to all[ = 8 #8atmosph]ic' error1 ! unconsci\s p]v]sion ( 8 san] judgm5t by "s collective mood ( 8 p>ty4 ,! risk is v subtle4 ,a lead] has no def5ce aga9/ x except to keep its possibility con/antly 9 m9d4 ,he mu/ acquire ! habit ( *all5g+1 m5tally1 8 own op9ions ( ! mom5t1 & ( confront+ !m1 deta*$ly1 ) ! /]ne/ ( m\nta9 precepts & rules ( ?umb4 ,! habit w /& him 9 good /ead 9 mom5ts ( m dang]\s decision1 ( excitem5t1 &1 !re=e ( m probable collective infection4 ,x w at lea/ *eck him f jo9+1 ev5 9 8 mo/ ec/atic mom5ts1 9 an unrop$ glaci] /amp$e or 9 a #8g-z-y-please' skelt] d[n a buttress2 x may save him "s ( ! la/+ regrets ( ! lead] :o aft]w>ds recognizes t he has turn$ back prematurely2 & x w c]ta9ly protect him on _m long tramps f t curi\s infection1 h\rs ( unit$1 unreason+ m\nta9 gloom4 ,sid5ote3 ,hy/]ia4 ,f a f\r? /ate1 actual hy/]ia or hill-%ock1 a lead] is presumably exempt4 ,x occurs m frequ5tly among m\nta9s ?an any:]e else (f ! battlefield1 s9ce _! conditions may put an excessive /ra9 ^u unaccu/om$ n]ves4 ,old climb]s are inoculat$ aga9/ mo/ ( its risks4 ,if a type ( dang] has once be5 exp]i5c$1 on any subsequ5t recurr5ce1 ev5 fa9tly resembl+ x 9 "*1 ! consci\sness fla%es out at once to meet x1 9 all its possible reactions2 ! m9d takes control ( ! n]ve communications & blocks ! way aga9/ any evil effects result+ f ! sudd5 %ock to ! subconsci\s n]v\s sy/em4 ,only an entirely unfamili> =m ( dang] or an unduly prolong$ /ra9 c r\t ! pres5ce ( m9d ( a tri$ climb]4 ,b x is well to rememb] t e man has 8 #8crack+ po9t1' & t ?is is soon] rea*$ 9 ! case ( an un$ucat$ guide1 h[ev] exp]i5c$1 ?an 9 ! p]son ( an exp]t amateur1 ^: imag9ation w wid5 8 exp]i5ce4 ,x may orig9ate 9 ?ree ways4 ,fir/ly1 f exhau/ion1 irritat+ bra9 & n]ves until self-control is lo/ & any slight %ock may cause ! hy/]ia to break out1 ei!r 9 ! usual viol5t symptoms1 or1 m intimidat+ because less anticipat$1 9 sil5t te>s4 ,exhau/ion1 n fe>1 is ! basis4 ,if x has n be5 possible to anticipate ! crisis by precaution>y re/ or di/raction1 imm$iate inaction & quiet reassurance1 )\t remon/rance or contradiction1 are ! be/ assi/ance to recov]y4 ,or1 secondly1 x may result f sudd5 %ock1 ! realization ( completely unexpect$ dang] 9 a placid mom5t be=e ! m9d has "t to ass]t its control ov] its own gr\p ( sp9al n]ves4 ,?is is ! mom5t ( panic :i* is ! t]ror ( all :o h ! *>ge ( collections ( human be+s1 9 a !atre or on %ipbo>d4 ,if ! %ock c be anticipat$ by ev5 ! briefe/ ( introductions1 if a collective in/antane\s realization ( ! dang] c only be prev5t$ by any me?od ( m gradual communication ( ! news1 half ! risk ( panic ensu+ is gone4 ,= if only ! m9d has ! *ance to realize ! mean+ ( ! news be=e ! physical %ock to ! gr\p ( subconsci\s n]ves has "t to react1 x takes comm&2 & ! man beg9s to act1 & ev5 to ov]act1 = 8 own b5efit if = no wid] audi5ce1 9 accordance ) 8 conception ( suitable g5tlemanly behavi\r "u ! circum/ances4 ,9 climb+1 inde$1 !re is (t5 no "t = su* a gradual introduction4 ,b 9 climb+1 :]ev] dang] is n cumulative1 & !re=e gradual1 9 its approa*1 ! p]il is ov] & pa/ almo/ z soon z ! %ock is felt3 = in/ance1 ! rock has fall5--& miss$ ! p>ty2 ! slip has occurr$--& n pull$ !m d[n4 ,s mu* ! lead] has 9 8 fav\r 9 meet+ its aft]-effects ( fe>4 ,! crisis be+ ov]1 x is be/1 if possible1 to pret5d to ignore its exi/5ce altoge!r1 & to f9d "s reason = a halt & = cont9u$ inatt5tion until ! n]ves h _h "t to settle d[n4 ,if ?is fails1 ! incid5t %\ld be *e]fully recall$ & discuss$ until its idea has become famili>1 & s h>mless4 ,x is useful to rememb] t no individual panic1 & = t matt] no =m ( extreme emotion1 c long survive ! bl& disreg>d ( its exi/5ce by "s "o else 9 ! same circum/ances4 ,b if a repetition ( ! p]il /ill ?reat5s1 z might be ! case aft] a rock or sn[ avalan*e1 & !re=e imm$iate movem5t is desirable1 ! ord]s = action %\ld be %>p & decid$1 b q imp]sonal3 !y %\ld neglect any individual m p>ticul>ly affect$1 & app>5tly be address$ to ! :ole p>ty4 ,p]sonal att5tion only t5ds to increase ! self-consci\sness & ! self-pity :i*1 9 ! fright5$ man1 w be militat+ aga9/ ! recov]y ( 8 self-comm&4 ,! ?ird & mo/ difficult manife/ation1 t ( hy/]ical ob/9acy1 may be ! outcome ( a long-cont9u$ /ate ( n]v\sness or (1 (t51 gr\ndless fe>1 accumulat+ & indulg$ by self-compassion until x gets beyond control4 ,! hy/]ia takes ! =m ( a refusal to move up or d[n1 &1 )\t any viol5t symptoms1 rema9s imp]vi\s to reason or direct remon/rance4 ,a halt1 & a delib]ate disreg>d1 emphasiz$ by g5]al talk ab\t "s unrelat$ matt]1 w (t5 result 9 a gradual loos5+ ( ! t5sion1 m5tal & muscul>1 & ! beg9n+s ( unwill+ movem5t4 ,once ! rigidity is pa/1 ! rope & quick & n too g5tle impulse w d ! re/4 ,b if ! situation does n all[ ( ev5 s mu* delay1 /rong] measures are necess>y4 ,i h se5 a guide use a />tl+ slap on ! *eek 9 an extreme case ) good effect2 or a j]k on ! rope1 t =ces ! victim to scramble to recov] 8 own foot+1 may break ! spell4 ,9 any case1 if ! lead] is un=tunate en\gh to suff] su* inconv5i5ce ) a beg9n]1 he w be wise n to risk ! l *ance on a m\nta9 a second "t1 9 bo? _! int]e/s4 ,sid5ote3 ,v]tigo4 ,:at is call$ gidd9ess1 ! p>alys+ effect ( %e] height1 sudd5ly reveal$1 sometimes produces unexpect$ly a simil> condition ( immobility4 ,=tunately1 9 ?is case x is n accompani$ by ! same objection to be+ mov$ into security by o!rs4 ,habit also w remove ! incl9ation1 sometimes felt on ! edges ( %e] walls or cliffs1 to #8?r[ oneself ov]4' ,?is is ano!r ( ! symptoms ( slight v]tigo4 ,9 spite ( its frequ5t & s5sational appe>ance 9 n>rative1 ! incl9ation w\ld seem inv>iably to conf9e itself to rema9+ m]ely an incl9ation4 ,gidd9ess1 ! incl9ation to fall & ! impulse to ?r[ oneself ov]1 is ! result ( ! inability ( ! eye at ! mom5t to obta9 an assurance t ! body is upright or 9 balance4 ,:5 a *ild is le>n+ to walk x tumbles all ov] ! place4 ,!n x le>ns to fix "s po9t on a level ) its eye1 & x c reta9 its balance 9 walk+ j s long z x c keep its eyes mov+ t[>ds ?is po9t m or less on a level plane4 ,gradually x le>ns to get ! same assurance f "s di/ant po9t on ! floor ahead3 its eye has be5 educat$ to reason f a diagonal z mu* z f a level glance2 & ! #8semicircul> canal' has be5 taught to int]pret ! message1 & conv]t x into automatic balance4 ,z x moves =w>d x %ifts ! po9t ahead1 unconsci\sly obta9+ t ! ?ird side ( ! triangle ?us =m$ by its glance %all always demon/rate t ! o!r two sides1 ! l9e ( ! floor & ! v]tical l9e ?r\gh its own c5tre ( gravity1 are =m+ an approximate "r angle4 ,/ill lat] x le>ns to apply ! same pr9ciple to uphill or d[nhill gradi5ts1 :]e ! l9e ( gravity makes1 n a "r angle1 b an acute or obtuse angle ) ! visible surface4 ,t is1 x le>ns to take ! con/ant l9e ( its own c5tre ( gravity z ! base-l9e ( its triangle & n ! fickle floor+2 & x /ill keeps 9 balance 9 movem5t by measur+ ! ?ird side ) its eye1 9 ord] to be assur$ t :atev] angle its body 9 balance is mak+ ) ! gr\nd1 be x uphill & acute1 or d[nhill & obtuse1 %all rema9 ! same dur+ its next movem5t4 ,ev5 z m5 we _c be sure t we are upright1 t is1 9 balance--= our muscles p]mit u a few degrees ( sway ei!r way f our l9e ( gravity--unless we are someh[ 9 contact ) ! visible surface at two successive po9ts 9 ! l9e ( direction 9 :i* we are mov+1 be ! contact ma9ta9$ by ! t\* ( our second foot1 by ! h&1 or by ! glance ( our eye4 ,%ut y\r eyes1 /& on "o foot1 & y w h pro( ( ?is4 ,m5 accu/om$ only to walk+ on ! level make a habit ( select+ ! re/-po9t = _! eye "s di/ance ahead4 ,consequ5tly1 :5 !y f9d !mselves on a /eep hillside1 :]e ! fall ( ! gr\nd bel[ makes a wid] angle ) _! l9e ( gravity ?an _! eye has be5 tra9$ to e/imate1 _! glance w&]s helplessly1 !y lose _! assurance ( balance1 & !y become #8giddy' or feel t !y #8mu/' fall ov]4 ,b habit w correct ?is4 ,! climb] soon le>ns to %ort5 8 glance1 to accept a r$uc$ di/ance betwe5 8 two requisite po9ts ( contact4 ,! few in*es ( visible surface ne> 8 feet1 be x only ! edge ( a rock l$ge or ! curve ( a sn[ wall1 project$ aga9/ no?+ness1 w s]ve him1 ) practice1 z suffici5t re/-po9t = 8 eye1 & give him ! assurance t 8 body is upright & 8 balance secure4 ,:]ev]1 9 climb+1 ! angle ( ! surface is s /eep t ev5 ^! few in*es ( m>g9 = ! eye's reassurance are lack+1--= in/ance1 on a precipit\s rock wall ) only m9ute /ances1 or on an almo/ v]tical ice slope1--!n1 by ! nature ( ! case1 ! climb] c use 8 h&s2 & f ?is second po9t ( contact1 ?r\gh 8 f+]s1 ! climb] gets an ev5 m concrete assurance ( 8 balance ?an f ! judgm5t ( 8 eye4 ,!re are cases1 h[ev]1 :]e ! h&s _c or %\ld n be us$1 & :]e ! eye is s f> confus$ t x mu/ divide its responsibility = ! second po9t ( contact ) "s o!r ag5t2 & = ?is we le>n to use ! second foot4 ,take ! case ( trav]s+ along ! summit ( a n>r[ rock ridge1 or across a knife-edge ( ice4 ,! h&s are useless1 & ! eyes1 unable to rema9 focus$ ^u ! n>r[ edge1 w&] away into ! dep?s4 ,! inexp]t man w get giddy1 & w only save himself1 on ! rock1 by crawl+ across on h&s & knees1 ?us =c+ f 8 h&s ! assurance t 8 eyes refuse2 :ile on ! ice he w get giddy &--n get across at all4 ,b ! exp]t c /ep across ei!r1 rapidly & securely4 ,9 ! fir/ place he le>ns to focus 8 eyes undeviat+ly ^u ! ?9 edge ahead1 or ^u "s fix$ po9t on ! same l9e ) x beyond2 & 9 ! second place he le>ns1 s9ce an exp]t's eye is human & embraces a l>ge field1 to divide its balanc+ duty ) 8 second foot4 ,?is foot1 advanc$ 9 ! direction ( progress1 provides a second re/-po9t = ! assurance ( balance q good en\gh to complem5t ! eye4 ,he /rides out rapidly1 s z to %ort5 ! d\btful int]val :ile ?is foot is 9 ! air1 & = assurance 9 ?is d\btful int]val he tru/s aga9 to 8 fix$ glance4 ,a bl9d-fold$ tight-rope walk] balances on ! same pr9ciple1 only he obta9s 8 assurance f two po9ts ( contact ev5 ne>] toge!r1 f "o foot only j 9 advance ( ! o!r1 or ev5 f "o foot alone1 ! two requisite po9ts be+ !n repres5t$ by 8 toe & 8 heel4 ,loose-wire walk]s1 :o app>5tly deprive !mselves ( all fix$ po9ts = _! e/imate1 sub/itute ! pole or ! p>asol 9 _! h&s4 ,?is _! tra9$ s5se cont9ues to adju/ at su* an incl9ation to ! %ift+ b relatively fix$ po9t ( _! feet z may always give _! h& a second relatively fix$ po9t ( judgm5t by :i* !y c e/imate ! angle t !n body is mak+1 at any in/ant ( re/ or motion1 ) ! l9e ( gravity2 & its lev]age enables !m to correct ?is angle :5ev] h& plus foot give w>n+ t ! body has s f> dep>t$ f ! l9e z to be ent]+ ^u ! #8=bidd5 degrees4' ,! normal m\nta9e]1 h[ev]1 ne$ nev] expect to h to d ) less ?an two /able po9ts ( judgm5t1 = foot & h& or eye1 & ^! at lea/ a few in*es ap>t4 ,x is entirely incorrect1 !re=e1 = anyone to assume t1 because he feels #8giddy' look+ d[n f ! top ( a wall1 he is disqualifi$ f high m\nta9e]+4 ,"s degree ( gidd9ess w\ld be excusable 9 any m\nta9e]1 h[ev] exp]t1 :o might be ask$ to look d[n (f ! edge ( a %e] wall1 :]e !re 0 no h&hold1 no room to %ift a foot =w>d or backw>d1 & :i* 0 too v]tical to af=d any re/-po9t bel[ = ! eye4 ,if he 7 ask$ to walk along ! wall1 he w\ld probably d x *e]fully4 ,9 m\nta9e]+1 also1 we may c\nt ^u h&holds :5 ! eye is ob/ruct$ or ! assurance ( a second foot d5i$ u4 ,we ne$ only tra9 our s5se ( balance to assure u ( security ^u a basis ( n>r[ly spac$ b /ill q natural po9ts ( judgm5t4 ,& 9 ! process ( le>n+ we %all f9d t we lose all incl9ation to gidd9ess4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,effect ( ,height4 ,!re rema9s "o /ate1 ( ^: nature & orig9 we at pres5t "k v little4 ,x is g5]ally call$ ! #8psy*ological' effect ( height2 :i* x almo/ c]ta9ly is n4 ,x has none ( ! bodily symptoms ( m\nta9 sickness2 & ,i "k no rem$y = x1 m5tal or physical4 ,x is simply t c]ta9 m5 above c]ta9 heights appe> to lose "s portion ( _! n]v\s en]gy4 ,tra9+ or habit seem p[]less to re/ore x4 ,!y become incapable ( mov+ ) ! c]ta9ty or rhy?m :i* are !irs at l[] levels4 ,y c wat* ! effects 9 t5tative1 sl[] movem5ts1 a visible ef=t 9 balanc+1 clums9ess ) ! rope1 insecurity 9 /eps1 sometimes a vagu5ess or abs5ce ( m9d1 z if ! vitality 7 runn+ l[4 ,& yet ! m5 w be mo/ vigor\s & compet5t m\nta9e]s up to _! limit ( height4 ,liability to suff] f x appe>s to dep5d on no "q ( physique or ( probabilities4 ,z its result _m f9e climb]s on l[] hills nev] a*ieve m>k$ success 9 ! ,alps1 & _m f9e alp9i/s1 includ+ mo/ guides1 are failures1 relatively1 9 ! ,himalaya4 ,if we 7 to g high en\gh1 we %\ld probably f9d t e man has 8 limit ( height1 above :i* no tra9+ or habit w\ld enable him to climb ) 8 normal vig\r or effici5cy4 ,b :at conc]ns a lead] 9 ! ,alps1 or an explor] 9 high] ranges1 is to discov] :i* ( 8 p>ty is subject to x1 & at :at heights1 & make 8 dispositions accord+ly if he is plann+ an exp$ition or s]ies ( exp$itions :i* w exce$ ?is limit4 ,o!rwise1 j at ^? heights & 9 ^? situations :]e ! greate/ individual skill is call$ = & ! lea/ att5tion c be sp>$ to o!rs1 he w f9d t ! symptoms w beg9 to put 9 an unwelcome appe>ance4 ,! m\nta9e] himself is r>ely aw>e ( 8 weakness2 he probably expla9s x to himself z a t\* ( pass+ m\nta9 sickness4 ,x is only :5 he1 or m probably 8 lead]1 notices t x recurs at ! same height & t ! symptoms are n physical or m5tal1 b affect ! my/]i\s half-way region t we mu/ call #8n]v\s1' t ! true cause sugge/s itself4 ,a lead] mu/ wat* e new memb] ( 8 p>ty1 & if he f9ds t he has su* a height limit1 he mu/ n take him above x1 if ! asc5t is sev]e1 or he mu/ be prep>$ to give him mu* increas$ att5tion & %eph]d+ until ! limit is repass$ on ! desc5t4 ,,social ,,composition ,,( ,,! ,,p>ty ,! social & psy*ological conditions t regulate ! relations ( any collection ( human be+s associat$ = a common ef=t or pursuit are seldom tak5 suffici5tly into acc\nt4 ,! int]action ( individual temp]am5ts 9 m\nta9e]+ & ! reactions ( common mood "u ! /ress ( elem5tal conditions or ( great physical ef=t h1 9 consequ5ce1 seldom be5 all[$ = 9 anticipatory organization or made a matt] = previ\s agreem5t1 or = ! acceptance ( precaution>y control4 ,:5 ! crises h aris51 x has be5 (t51 consequ5tly1 too late = rem$y or = ! exclusion ( ! dissonant elem5ts4 ,?is mu/ be my excuse = sket*+ ^! sup]ficial classifications ( n]v\s & m5tal /ates t are z positive 9 _! influ5ce ^u ! success or h>mony ( a m\nta9e]+ holiday z ! possession or lack ( a develop$ trapezius major or a s\nd dige/ion4 ,explor]s ( exp]i5ce sometimes recognize ! importance ( *oos+ m5 = temp] & temp]am5t z mu* z = physique1 & make _! arrangem5ts ) ?is 9 view1 9 practice if n 9 _! pr9t$ records4 ,m\nta9e]+ is done "u mu* ! same conditions2 b its tempor>y1 holiday "* leads u g5]ally1 z we sit at home 9 ! com=t ( pleasant prospect1 to ov]look 9 our arrangem5ts ! almo/ primitive conditions ( temp]1 heal? & fi]ce /ruggle "u :i* we %all be liv+ dur+ our m\nta9 association4 ,a m\nta9e]1 9 ! composition & managem5t ( 8 p>ty1 _c af=d to neglect ! action ( heal? & condition ^u temp]1 or ( temp]am5t & mood ^u a*ievem5t4 ,he mu/ select m51 !re=e1 n by _! promise ( ! pla9s1 b by :at he kn[s or concludes w be _! conduct "u ! h>d] te/ ( ! heights4 ,if he has to take anyone on *ance1 he mu/ be on ! wat* f ! fir/1 &1 if he f9ds he has made a mi/ake1 cont5t himself ) a less ambiti\s programme4 ,9 big m\nta9e]+ no man has m ?an a mom5t>y m>g94 ,9 less exact+ "w no man has a cont9u\s m>g9 ( w-p[]1 n]ve & temp]1 to say no?+ ( skill1 = m ?an himself & "o o!r4 ,e p>ty ( m ?an two %\ld conta9 two m5 ( tri$ n]ve--t is1 ( an exp]i5ce t has le>n$ to control ! effects ( %ock or ( fatigue ^u ! n]ves4 ,e p>ty1 = its own peace1 %\ld conta9 "o exp]t rock climb] & "o reliable iceman4 ,a good second-man1 or #8back]-up1' & a weight-c>ri] are invaluable assets4 ,^! p>ts may1 ( c\rse1 be d\bl$ 9 a s+le individual4 ,! ability to heal1 or cook1 or s+ may be all[$ to outweigh "s m9or defects--b n temp]1 clums9ess or a sluggi% vitality4 ,a manag] has also to rememb] t t p>ty e>ns ! be/ success :i* works ) ! mo/ collective good-hum\r & good-w4 ,) ! object ( ma9ta9+ ! g5ial atmosph]e t be/ resi/s local di/urbances1 m5tal or physical1 "o memb] ( a p>ty ( ?ree or f\r may well be ei!r y\ng] or less exp]i5c$ ?an ! re/4 ,r[+ eights 9 tra9+ h discov]$ ! m]its ( a mascot or protg1 :om ! re/ c look aft] & laugh ) or at4 ,no p>ty ( m5 or wom5 c qu>rel if !re are *ildr5 7n belong+ to !m7 ( _! numb]4 ,"o consid]ably y\ng] memb] ( a p>ty1 or "o y\ng] 9 ! s5se t he or %e is a novice to ! "w1 & 9 s f> is a *ild1 gives ! climb+ gr\p ! pleasant s5se ( c5tr+ r\nd "s "o z a common c>e4 ,he is a p]man5t di/raction4 ,9 mom5ts ( excitem5t1 pleasure or fatigue1 e memb] ( su* a p>ty unconsci\sly puts himself fir/ into ! new-com]'s attitude ( m9d1 & speculates h[ ! s5sation w pres5t itself to him4 ,! process provides our individual consci\sness ) an ext]nal int]e/ t div]ts u f ! oppression ( absorption 9 ourselves4 ,9 a holiday p>ty ( f\r1 :i* is ! be/ numb] = s]i\s guideless climb+1 enabl+ ! break into ! ideal pairs = rock climb+1 & ! saf] comb9ation = glaci]s1 "o memb] may well be an #8infant' or beg9n] ( ?is sort2 b if su* an elem5t is includ$ ! #8break+' mu/ be conf9$ to v safe passages4 ,9 a p>ty ( ?ree1 provid$ t two are ?or\gh exp]ts1 & "o ( ^! possibly a fir/-class guide1 & provid$ t no sev]e climb+ is contemplat$1 malefic5t psy*ic influ5ces may be combat$ by ! inclusion ( our less responsible ?ird4 ,if s]i\s "w is 9 prospect1 ! ?ird mu/ be at lea/ /rong & effici5t2 9 fact1 9 p>ties ( less ?an f\r1 consid]ations ( skill or exp]i5ce mu/ always take prec$5ce ( purely social qualifications4 ,9 a p>ty ( two1 = rock climb+1 bo? mu/ be1 prim>ily1 exp]t1 & our social selection mu/ be conf9$ to ?is class4 ,= glaci] "w any p>ty ( two1 ev5 ?\gh1 socially1 !y speak ) ! tongues ( angels1 mu/ always be uns\nd4 ,! popul>ity ( ! p>ty ( two z a rock climb+ comb9ation compels u cont9ually to reconsid] its suitability "u new aspects4 ,z a social companion%ip ! association ( two fri5ds1 equally exp]t1 is ideal4 ,! association ( two fri5ds1 "o ( !m less exp]t b equally compet5t to %>e 9 ! responsibility = a jo9t decision1 is q def5sible4 ,b x mu/ be rememb]$ t any ext]nal feel+ /rong en\gh to int]f]e ) ! complete conc5tration ( a lead] ^u 8 climb+ r$uces ! effici5cy ( 8 normal /&>d & /ill m ( 8 /&>d ( ! day4 ,8 feel+ ( a p>ticul> responsibility = an individual1 o!r ?an 8 g5]al responsibility to a p>ty1 may act z a dang]\s di/raction4 ,a man1 !re=e1 :o climbs alone ) a novice1 a y\ng] p]son or a pupil1 t[>ds :om he is 9 a position ( p]sonal tru/1 h&icaps himself to an ext5t t %\ld =bid him to attempt any b absolutely safe & elem5t>y climb+4 ,! usual risks1 ev5 ( m]ely ext]nal *ance1 :i* he may take lightly = himself or = a second companion ( equal discretion1 he may n take = 8 *>ge2 & ! *e]ful cons5t ( an inexp]i5c$ comrade to #8%>e' 9 tak+ su* a *ance _c be consid]$ z reliev+ ! s+le exp]t ( any "p ( 8 exclusive responsibility4 ,if he has ! s5se ( x con/antly 9 m9d1 ! feel+ turns to anxiety 9 mom5ts ( crisis1 & int]f]es ) 8 coolness ( judgm5t & ) ! n]v\s h>mony ^u :i* 8 skill dep5ds2 at m ord9>y times its pres5ce mat]ially biases 8 ord9>y m5tal & physical climb+ habit4 ,if1 on ! o!r h&1 he und]takes su* a *>ge1 & !n does n keep x 9 m9d 9 all 8 decisions & actions1 no "o w consid] him to h be5 a happy *oice = ! responsibility entru/$ to him4 ,:]e ! s5se ( responsibility is fur!r complicat$ by an emotional relation%ip its debilitat+ effect is increas$4 ,x is a commonplace ( all active und]tak+s t relation%ip is irreconcilable ) cool comm& & undi/urb$ p]=mance4 ,simil>ly1 a fa!r climb+ alone ) 8 *ild or *ildr51 a husb& climb+ ) 8 wife1 _c pres]ve ! n]v\s conc5tration or ! emotional deta*m5t indisp5sable = an unsupport$ lead]4 ,:atev] _! normal ability z m\nta9e]s1 9 su* a companion%ip bo? _! discretion & _! execution mu/ be subject to a hundr$ di/ract+ influ5ces4 ,! di/urbance1 ev5 ! dang]1 ( an emotional /ate 9 a memb] ( a p>ty has already be5 indicat$4 ,9 ^! cases1 h[ev]1 x is ! lead]1 ^: bus9ess x %\ld be to correct1 :o is ! man affect$2 &1 fur!r1 9 a p>ty ( two s con/itut$1 :]e ! lead] alone is morally or by nature responsible1 no o!r c comp5sate = 8 abnormality or qualify ! effects ( 8 /ate or ( 8 action4 ,9 my view no m\nta9e] %\ld ev] climb alone ) anyone less compet5t = :om he mu/ be held responsible ei!r by relation%ip or by delegat$ au?ority2 unless ! climb+ is s %ort & s safe t he c be sure ( always safegu>d+ 8 *>ge aga9/ ! ill consequ5ce ( any & e =m ( #8accid5t' h[ev] remote or unlikely4 ,practically ?is means t1 except = simple #8b\ld]+' or elem5t>y1 sep>ate #8pit*' climbs1 )\t ! addition ( a second fully compet5t m\nta9e] all p>ties ( ?is description are uns\nd4 ,9 l>g] p>ties x is wise to give full value to social consid]ations 9 select+ ! memb]s1 s9ce we c always secure1 by addition or subtraction1 t any elem5t ( weakness introduc$ by relation%ip or private responsibility is balanc$ by a great] proportion ( m\nta9e]+ skill4 ,b = comb9ations ( two our fir/ bus9ess is to make absolutely c]ta9 t ea* man is equally compet5t1 9 8 own & 8 fri5d's eyes ev5 m ?an 9 ! eyes ( ! _w1 to take 8 full %>e ( responsibility4 ,we may !n1 if we w1 treat ! sep>ate contributions ( skill z a collective :ole1 & n qu>rel ) an exp]t :o takes a less exp]t companion1 provid$ he be compet5t & responsible1 if by s do+ he secures a wid] field = 8 social *oice4 ,,walk+ ,,mann]s ,!re are sev]al po9ts ( :at may be t]m$ walk+ mann]s1 common to all types ( long m\nta9 walk+ & n only to climb+1 ^: obs]vance contributes a great deal to ! individual peace ( m9d dur+ ! e>ly & late h\rs ( a long alp9e day4 ,m5 :5 !y are (f ! rope1 or :o h nev] be5 on a rope1 almo/ univ]sally neglect !m1 & are bl9d to ! cumulative effect ^u a tir$ companion's temp] or ^u _! own hum\r4 ,e "o ?9ks he c walk1 & mo/ m5 nev] bo!r to discov] :y ! excell5t companion ( ! ,sunday aft]noon ramble prov$ a failure on a long walk+ t\r4 ,! fir/ po9t ( mann]s = ! man 9 control is t ( pace4 ,mo/ climb]s suff] f ! weakness ( increas+ ! pace ! mom5t !y take ! lead on a pa?1 slope or glaci]4 ,?is is try+ to ! p>ty1 consci\sly or n1 & wa/eful4 ,a manag] %\ld ei!r block ! way himself1 or1 if he is beh9d1 keep consi/5tly to :at he consid]s ! "r tempo4 ,x is bett] he %\ld be ?\ght to be gett+ old or lazy ?an t ! p>ty %\ld be ru%$ inopportunely4 ,a second & frequ5t fail+ is ! #8half /ep' trick4 ,"s fifty p] c5t4 ( fa/ walk]s1 :5ev] !y walk abrea/ on road or pa? or hill1 p]si/5tly keep half a /ride 9 front1 _! %\ld] j cle> ( _! companion4 ,x may be due to "s half-=m$ feel+ ( satisfaction 9 sett+ ! pace & hav+ a m>g9 to turn r\nd & talk f4 ,its effect is t ! fri5d is p]petually /ra9+ to cat* up1 & ! pace ?us /eadily accel]ates till bo? are practically rac+4 ,!n "o gives up1 & bo? lag1 until ! game />ts aga94 ,! habit is (t5 unconsci\s1 b x is extraord9>ily irritat+ on a long tramp1 or to a tir$ companion4 ,a ?ird brea* ( mann]s1 all too common1 is pass+ ahead 9 ! l9e ( m>*4 ,ov] mo/ brok5 c\ntry1 glaci]1 sn[ or r\gh hillsides1 m5 naturally fall into s+le file4 ,cattle tracks or man tracks are r>ely wide en\gh = two abrea/1 & if x is a "q ( select+ a l9e1 x saves r$uplication ( ! ef=t to leave ! task to "o & to drop 9 beh9d him4 ,!re are few inexp]i5c$ walk]s :o d n take advantage ( ! slighte/ error 9 ! *oice ( r\te on ! fir/ man's "p1 to break (f & pass him on ! %ort] l9e4 ,9 do+ s1 !y take ! responsibility ( tak+ all ! re/ :o foll[ (f ! l9e also4 ,on an ord9>y hill walk1 :5 ! go+ is all free & easy1 ?is is excusable1--no "o is compell$ to foll[ ano!r long] ?an suits him2 z also 9 ! case :5 ! fir/ man is obvi\sly mi/ak51 & to cut 8 l9e is a di/9ct sav+ ( ef=t = ^? :o foll[4 ,b1 done z by "o ( a l9e ( m5 ei!r tir$ or ) a big day be=e !m1 :]e "o has be5 tak+ ! extra burd5 ( r\te-select+ = ! re/1 x is a s]i\s brea* ( m\nta9 mann]s4 ,! ga9 is probably only a y>d or two1 & ! front man may ju/ly res5t hav+ be5 left ! lab\r ( *oos+ ! r\te at a hundr$ po9ts1 only to h advantage tak5 ( 8 s+le d\btful *oice 9 ord] to displace him4 ,he ei!r runs ahead to rega9 8 place1 & ! rhy?m ( ! p>ty is brok5 9 a silly competition none ! less irritat+ t x is r>ely ackn[l$g$ 9 words1 or he plods beh9d ) a slight s5se ( injury4 ,a m debatable occasion1 :]e ! same po9t comes into prom95ce1 is on ! asc5t ( /eep slopes or op5 hillsides4 ,an exp]i5c$ front man w probably take ^! on a zigzag4 ,to a less exp]i5c$ walk]1 & to all beg9n]s ( en]gy & leg muscle1 x is g5]ally a temptation to cut ! zigzags on ! direct l9e1 & s pass ahead4 ,?is is bad walk+1 b !re is ! m excuse = x 9 t on su* slopes m5 r>ely d foll[ ea* o!r exactly1 & mo/ ( ! p>ty w probably be pref]r+ ea* to take 8 zigzag at ! mo/ com=table angle to himself4 ,! be/ rule ( mann]s to rememb] is t1 :ile e man is free to *oose any l9e & pace he likes on su* places1 yet1 if "o man has be5 def9itely lead+ & *oos+ ! l9e1 ! o!rs ought to drop into _! places 9 ! l9e beh9d him aga9 s soon z ! s+le-file =mation is resum$4 ,x is m politic to be consid]$ a well-mann]$ tramp ?an to ass]t "o's p[]s z a limb] hill-ru%]4 ,ano!r blund]1 f :i* _m a good walk] is n free1 is ! incl9ation to hurry ! pace if ! l9e or %ort-cut he has *os5 takes ! p>ty = a :ile ov] worse gr\nd1 or proves1 = o!r reasons1 n to h be5 ! be/ r\te4 ,8 almo/ unconsci\s accel]ation is due to "s impulse to get back quickly & unnotic$ to good go+1 & s to slur ov] ! mi/ake1 or ! mom5t>y disagreeability ( ! r\te = :i* he is responsible1 z mu* to himself z to ^? :o foll[4 ,x is a trick to notice & avoid4 ,x =ces ! rhy?m & pace ov] j ! gr\nd :]e x %\ld1 if any?+1 be eas$4 ,m5 :o walk mu* ) p>ties :i* are afflict$ ) ! #8rac+' or #8pass+' manias1 are p>ticul>ly liable1 f a sort ( n]v\s self-def5ce1 to develop ?is fail+ also4 ,a lead] mu/ n walk c>elessly or break ! rhy?m ( /ep arbitr>ily4 ,! man :o =ces a plodd+ foll[+ to *ange feet unexpect$ly does n "k 8 bus9ess4 ,aga91 :5 walk+ 9 s+le file1 or any way b com=tably abrea/1 m5 inexp]t 9 act+ z guides d n realize t al?\gh ! man 9 front c he> all t is said beh9d him1 yet t1 unless he turns 8 head ov] 8 %\ld] & ?r[s 8 words out1 he himself is inaudible d[n ! l9e beh9d him4 ,z ! rem>ks f ! lead] on a long tramp1 & :5 m5 are tir$1 h usually "s direct be>+ on ! way1 ^? beh9d him cr[d up to he>2 !y break /ep1 & are (t5 put irritably on ! /ra94 ,! compla9t ( _m a "y m\nta9e]1 t 8 eld] companion w nev] answ] at all :ile walk+1 usually f9ds its explanation 9 ! fact t ! "y man's en]gy c>ries him ahead1 & z 8 rem>ks are address$ to ! sc5]y1 8 companion pref]s consi/5t sil5ce & inatt5tion to ! /ra9 ( try+ to he>1 or to ! irritation to himself & 8 fri5d ( cont9ually repeat+1 8,:at d'y say80 ,^! matt]s may seem too slight to m5tion1 b neglect ( _! obs]vance br+s _m a p>ty home ) "s memb] or o!r out ( h>mony & unappreciative ( ! sunset4 ,9 ! grumpy morn+ />t or dur+ ! ev5+ tir$ return x is = su* details t ! manag] has to be mo/ on ! look out4 ,he %\ld1 if possible1 set ! pace himself1 & keep x )\t que/ion+ or rem>k to :at he judges to be ! be/ pace ( ! lagg>d ( ! day4 ,he %\ld nev] let himself be press$ by "s "o at 8 heels1 race ahead1 or all[ o!rs to d s1 except = "s specifi$ & univ]sally b5eficial reason 7su* z ord]+ tea ahead671 m]ely because ! difficulties seem to be ov] & ! way pla9 = ! /rong] memb]s ( 8 p>ty4 ,!re is no pleasure 9 be+ left beh9d2 x provokes a tir$ man & g5]ally makes him ob/9ately sl[]4 ,x us$ to be said1 & by ! be/ au?orities1 t ) a tir$ or tramp+ p>ty x is ess5tial to keep ! pace always ! same1 or !y w lose ! rhy?m t alone c keep !m go+4 ,?is is a mi/ake4 ,9 ! fir/ place1 v>iations 9 pace are a re/ 9 !mselves1 provid$ t ! actual ef=t put into ea* /ep does n v>y4 ,9 ! second place1 x is def9itely m fatigu+ to be held back to a fix$ pace on a sudd5 d[nhill gradi5t2 & x is vexati\s to pass f a long uphill gr9d on to a level /ret* )\t ! relief ( a #8sw+ out4' ,simil>ly1 x is futile to *ange f a level to an uphill gradi5t & attempt to keep a p>ty to ! same rate4 ,! mi/ak5 tea*+ has be5 due to a confusion betwe5 actual rate ( movem5t ov] ! gr\nd & ! am\nt ( ef=t requir$ = ea* /ep4 ,rhy?m is ess5tial to ensure good tramp+1 & to m9imize fatigue4 ,to secure rhy?m ! am\nt ( ef=t put into ea* /ep1 & n necess>ily ! pace1 %\ld be kept con/ant4 ,?us1 9 *ang+ f uphill to level gr\nd1 ! pace c be pleasantly quick5$ & ! /ep l5g!n$1 )\t any increase ( ef=t 9 ! /ride or any *ange ( rhy?m4 ,a long] /ride is (t5 a positive relief4 ,9 *ang+ f level to uphill ! l5g? ( ! /ep %ort5s1 s9ce a lift+ /ep is always m fatigu+1 & ! pace %\ld be tak5 m sl[ly1 ?\gh ! output ( ef=t is kept ! same4 ,on a *ange to a d[nhill gradi5t x is possible to *ange to a long] /ride1 or ev5 a run1 )\t alt]+ ! rhy?m or increas+ ! am\nt ( ef=t exact$ ( ! muscles or ( ! lungs4 ,9 resum+1 aft] a halt1 a frequ5t error is to />t too fa/4 ,"y climb]s1 l "y giants refre%$ ) w9d1 ru% (f at top pace4 ,! re-/>t %\ld always be sl[--if any?+ sl[] ?an ! av]age pace be=e ! halt4 ,gradually1 z ! circulation & organs beg9 to readju/ !mselves to _! "w1 ! previ\s pace c be recov]$4 ,b a halt is def9itely mak+ rep>ation = ! pa/1 n accumulat+ a m>g9 to wa/e 9 ! imm$iate future4 ,:5 ! en]gy ( ! p>ty is runn+ out1 x is bett] to avoid halts altoge!r4 ,to break ! rhy?m 9 su* case & relax ! me*anism is to make ! resumption ea* "t m difficult & ! recov]y ( an equal rate aft]w>ds v improbable4 ,to lead & *oose ! l9e is def9itely m fatigu+ ?an to foll[4 ,to save /r5g? & ma9ta9 pace1 dur+ a long day1 ! lead] ought to be *ang$ at regul> int]vals4 ,?is is too r>ely done4 ,sid5ote3 ,"s ,notes on ,hill ,walk+4 ,!re are "o or two fur!r po9ts connect$ ) walk+ up or d[n hill :i* are matt]s ( me?od r ?an ( mann]s1 b :i* 9 s f> z !y affect ! individual com=t react ^u ! peace ( a p>ty4 ,9 walk+ uphill1 ! foot %\ld always be plac$ s t ! heel re/s on ! gr\nd4 ,x is a beg9n]'s mi/ake to ru% a hill & spr+ f ! toes alone4 ,if ! flex ( ! ankle is /iff--m5 v>y mu* 9 ?is respect--& ! gradi5t is too /eep to all[ ! heel to drop1 look out = any little /one or excresc5ce1 h[ev] small1 to set x ^u4 ,if ! pa? is v /eep1 & )\t /ones1 x is m com=table to set ! foot slightly sideways1 s t ! heel gets "s support4 ,?is is (t5 p>ticul>ly useful at ! turns ( ! int]m9able zigzags on alp9e pa?s1 :]e ! track is apt to swoop up /eeply r\nd ! b5d4 ,if ! foot is ?us plac$ slightly aslant at e turn1 x is ready to advance at once aft] ! b5d 9 ! direction ( ! new zag4 ,a v slight economy1 y may say3 b multiply x by sev]al ?\s& zags 9 a day6 ,always take ! outside & easie/ l9e r\nd su* curves 9 asc5d+ tracks4 ,! secret ( all long gr9ds uphill is to set1 & ma9ta91 a regul> pace t becomes rhy?mic f ! fir/4 ,! mom5t y get beh9d a good hill walk]1 y w see ! diff]5ce betwe5 8 regul>1 re/ra9$ sw+1 m ( ! :ole body ?an ! leg1 & ! unev5 jump+ /ep1 t seems ea* "t to be a sep>ate balanc+ ef=t1 ( ! inexp]i5c$ walk]4 ,d n take long /eps uphill1 or lift ! foot high4 ,raise x by slightly sway+ ! body across ! firm leg & let ! loose foot sw+ =w>d ) its own weight4 ,a good hill walk]1 ( ! #8tireless' v>iety1 always moves ) a slight balance or sway4 ,always #8accept a slip4' ,t is1 if ! foot slips back on a loose surface1 d n tire ! muscles by a convulsive ef=t to /op x & to keep y\r balance4 ,let ! foot g till x /ops ( itself z ! topple ( y\r weight1 out ( balance1 comes ^u x2 & !n sw+ f t po9t ) ! o!r foot4 ,! ef=t y put into ea* /ep %\ld be kept ! same1 :atev] ! *ange 9 ! angle ( ! surface4 ,if y are lead+ & d\btful ( y\r pace1 try to s+4 ,s long z y c s+ or :i/le two l9es )\t pant+ or ef=t1 y are keep+ )9 y\r measure4 ,on a zigzag uphill1 d n take ! app>5t %ort-cuts4 ,!y are made by m5 desc5d+1 & only wa/e /r5g? & spoil rhy?m4 ,on an op5 hillside1 zigzag z if on a pa?1 />t+ at ! angle :i* lets y com=tably get ! heels d[n4 ,= a /ep or two1 if !re is no room to zag1 y c walk ) only ! "o heel d[n1 & ! o!r foot spr++ f ! toe2 b n = m4 ,if circum/ances make x imp]ative to g fa/1 lean well =w>d ov] ! feet1 & z x 7 #8tumble up' ! slope4 ,?is eases ! "w ( ! he>t4 ,if y h to race1 & legs & brea? beg9 to give out1 make ! h&s d _! %>e1 & una%am$ly pull ! knees up to ! /ride by ! bree*es4 ,y c ?us keep a long uphill /ride at a fa/ pace go+ long aft] ! leg muscles1 unaid$1 w\ld h giv5 out4 ,9 desc5d+ take ! %orte/ cuts y l4 ,!re are two weak po9ts to look to3 "o ! toes1 & ! o!r ! muscles ( ! back1 :i* d mo/ ( ! balanc+4 ,! toes are protect$ by well-fitt+ boots & a well-plac$ foot4 ,! back muscles are be/ indulg$ by lett+ ! %\ld]s g loose1 z y d :5 jog-trott+ on horseback4 ,?is eases ! ef=t ( balance & ! am\nt ( hold+ back & taut t ! muscles h to p]=m4 ,x also dim9i%es ! j>4 ,except = gr[n m51 ( exceptionally /rong ankles & knees1 x is be/ n to plunge #8all-out' d[nhill1 leap+ /raight-legg$ f heel to heel4 ,! legs %\ld be kept "u control1 & ! feet po9t$ d[n & kept well "u ! body4 ,! knees %\ld be b5t1 t5se1 b n rigid2 !y w s]ve to take up all ! j>1 & act z spr+s4 ,! /ep resembles a danc+ pace1 ) a b5t knee4 ,d n be %y ( us+ ! arms & h&s1 on trees1 rocks or scrub1 to ease 9 any way ! ef=t ( balance & ! leg-/ra9 dur+ rapid desc5ts4 ,an ankle or s9ew once wr5*$ is p]man5tly weak5$4 ,long1 h>d road-tramp+1 ) ! leg swung /raight1 is n a good prep>ation = climb+4 ,x jolts & /iff5s ! muscles1 & fixes !m 9 c]ta9 /]eotyp$ movem5ts4 ,good climb+ guides are r>ely good or fa/ road walk]s4 ,a long trudge (t5 breaks !m d[n & r5d]s !m unfit tempor>ily = sev]e climb+4 ,/&+ ab\t on ! feet :ile ! arms are be+ ex]cis$ m]ely tires ! legs1 & does n /r5g!n !m4 ,_m guides1 :o "w h>d at wood-*opp+ or 9 qu>ries dur+ ! w9t]1 f9d _! legs are all to pieces :5 ! season beg9s4 ,! knees are especially s5sitive 9 ?is respect4 ,a climb]'s leg ma*9]y is a delicate eng9e ( educat$ spr+s & f9e int]actions4 ,x c d a r\gh-&-tumble bett] ?an mo/1 at ne$1 b x %\ld be gu>d$ = its special & exact+ "w1 & n batt]$ or %ak5 out ( ge> unnecess>ily4 ,hill walk+ ex]cises & develops all ! movem5ts ( foot1 ankle1 knee & trunk :i* we use 9 balance-climb+ on rock or sn[4 ,x is ! be/ tra9+ = ! f9e & precise motions t we ne$ to educate4 ,!re is no d\bt ( ! s\ndness ( a man's climb+ if he is se5 to be a light & tireless hill walk]4 ,he may n necess>ily be brilliant on rocks1 b :at he does he w d 9 good /yle4 ,if we wi% to int]e/ our "y folk 9 climb+1 ! sure/ way is to let !m walk & run loose by !mselves ^u ! hills 9 e>ly ye>s4 ,rocks w meet !m naturally1 & if !y are go+ to climb1 !y w beg9 to climb !m naturally z !y occur1 ) ! feet & ) ! balance !y h practis$ on _! hill walks4 ,to take !m to rocks too e>ly1 z to a gymnasium1 is to spoil _! ta/e & deprive !m ( ! *ance ( develop+ a p]sonal en?usiasm & a natural /yle4 ,e good m\nta9e] mu/ r$iscov] ! hills & ! passion = climb+ !m z ( himself4 ,,*oice ,,( ,,di/rict ,"o consid]ation rema9s = ! lead]1 if x has n be5 already decid$ by ! pref]5ces ( 8 p>ty--t ( ! di/rict he w *oose = ! season4 ,a few g5]al pr9ciples may help to guide 8 *oice4 ,! t\r may be ei!r conc5tric1 ) asc5ts made f "o or f a succession ( c5tres1 or ecc5tric1 9 :i* case ! p>ty w be mov+ =w>d & c>ry+ its own luggage4 ,! fir/ is ! m luxuri\s1 ! second ! m attractive1 holiday4 ,! *oice dep5ds ^u ! "* ( ! p>ty & ^u ! wea!r ( ! season4 ,) beg9n]s1 9 a good season1 x is m in/ructive & indep5d5t to move along a range1 cross+ passes & tak+ only ! climbs t come4 ,! same progressive type ( t\r is ! be/ to foll[ 9 a really bad season1 :5 ! big peaks are out ( ! "q1 = ! "t at lea/1 & :5 !re may yet be a delightful holiday sp5t 9 w&]+ among ! l[] ,alps bel[ ! cl\d-level4 ,ev5 = ^? :o may be ambiti\s ( big peaks1 ?is is a bett] alt]native ?an sitt+ coop$ up ) o!r murmur]s wait+ = ! impossible 9 high hotels4 ,on ! o!r h&1 9 good b unc]ta9 wea!r1 if ! p>ty is desir\s ( big climbs1 & has to economize its "t1 x is bett] to move by express r\tes f c5tre to c5tre1 & to /rike = ! big peaks )\t loss ( days1 :5 ! good wea!r comes1 & :ile x la/s4 ,9 m d\btful wea!r1 :5 ! days are play+ at #8alt]nates' b ! peaks are /ill possible on fair days1 & :5 consequ5tly we are n =c$ d[n to ! pleasures ( l[ rambl+1 x is well to climb /ill f c5tres1 & f ! hotel itself4 ,if1 inde$1 ! p>ty is aim+ at a special peak1 x %\ld occupy ! ne>e/ hut1 & provision x z a c5tre1 ready to />t on ! fir/ cle> morn+4 ,b if1 z is wis] 9 a bad season1 x is wi%ful to take any?+ t (f]s1 x is ev5 bett] to /ay at ! c5tral hotel bel[--s9ce peaks enclos+ a valley are (t5 diff]5tly affect$ by diff]5t k9ds ( wea!r--& ! p>ty is !n 9 a position to set out at once = :i*ev] mass fir/ becomes feasible4 ,x c />t ov]night1 & s avoid ! hut altoge!r4 ,! fatigue & romance ( an all-night tramp are less prejudicial to ! *ances ( a successful climb on ! foll[+ day ?an ! depression ( a dull & /iff morn+ />t aft] a com=tless night4 ,on ! o!r h&1 !re is no m memorable exp]i5ce ?an to sleep out 9 ! op5 air dur+ a spell ( settl$ wea!r1 ) ! />s = company & ! fir/ /ir ( w9d be=e dawn z a /range awak5+4 ,! man :o wi%es to ta/e ! full pleasure ( a m\nta9e]+ day %\ld sleep out :5ev] he c ! night be=e1 & he %\ld lie f> en\gh f 8 companions to be able to feel himself alone4 ,possibly ! pleasante/ holiday ( all is obta9$ by a comb9ation ( ! conc5tric & ecc5tric me?ods1 accord+ z wea!r & incl9ation direct4 ,to w&] =w>d indep5d5t ( times & plans1 & to make pauses :5 we wi% = m prolong$ assaults ^u peaks t tempt u1 is a tw(old delight4 ,b x po/ulates leisure4 ,at home x is natural to base our calculations ^u an e/imate ( a climb e day4 ,only :5 we are fac$ ) ! facts on ! spot1 ! di/ances1 portages & wea!r1 d we recognize t we are lucky if we c make two or ?ree good climbs a week4 ,we mu/ all[ two days = ea* big climb1 & leave a m>g9 = ! (f-days4 ,y\ng] heads or less exp]i5c$ legs mu/ be taught ?is la/ doctr9e = _! own good4 ,! m practis$ w m easily recall t contra/ is ! ess5ce ( enjoym5t1 & t ! days ( h>d go+ on ice & heat$ rocks are only fully realiz$ & rememb]$ if !y are reliev$ by occasional lapses into tranquil l\ng+ 9 ! grassy valleys1 amid ! cool temptations ( lemon-ices & cl9k+ teetotal glasses4 ,if ! p>ty1 hav+ settl$ its g5]al plan1 has no pref]5ce = any p>ticul> di/rict1 x may be guid$1 9 ! ,alps1 by a few broad di/9ctions z betwe5 ! be/ kn[n di/ricts4 ,! ,ob]l& (f]s ! be/ opportunities = sn[ & ice "w ( almo/ all k9ds4 ,= ?is reason ! ,ob]l& is (t5 ! be/ *oice 9 a mod]ately f9e or unc]ta9 summ] :5 ! sn[ has /ay$ late4 ,! sn[ slopes ( ! g5tl] ,ob]l& peaks are climbable :5 ! big ridges ( ! ,p5n9es or ! ,mont ,blanc region are /ill clos$ to u by sn[ cloaks & cornices4 ,on ! o!r h&1 9 a bad summ] ! wea!r is usually at its wor/ 9 ! ,ob]l&1 & ! long sn[ wades may become intol]able1 unless we are prep>$ to snat* a w9t] t\r f a bad summ] mon? by trav]s+ ! ,ob]l&1 ) its high connect+ glaci]s & summits ( easi] angle1 on ski4 ,aga91 ! comp>ative eas9ess ( ! asc5ts & ! tra9+ !y (f] on ice & sn[ sugge/ ! ,ob]l& z a good *oice = an introductory t\r ) beg9n]s1 & z an equally good *oice = ! prelim9>y week's tra9+ 9 any lat] season4 ,!re is no bett] introduction1 or re9troduction1 to alp9e "w ?an practice on ! ice ( ! ,alets* glaci]1 v>i$ by asc5ts ( ! sn[ & small rock peaks 9 ! vic9ity4 ,! ,p5n9es (f] f9] individual peaks1 ) great] names1 & !y are m specially adapt$ = ^? :o pref] conc5tric m\nta9e]+1 ) bigg] s+le ef=ts & ! company ( _! k9d4 ,_! v>iety ( type & aspect makes !m suitable = selection 9 #8alt]nat+' wea!r4 ,(t5 :5 o!r regions are clos$ up1 & :5 ev5 its neighb\rs are %r\d$1 p]sonal idiosyncrasies w keep "s s+le ,p5n9e peak op5 = quick1 com=table asc5t4 ,! m]it ( ! ,p5n9es is _! mix$ g5]al climb+4 ,!y h few] great ice & sn[ climbs to (f] ?an ! ,ob]l& or ,mont ,blanc1 & _! rock is inf]ior to ! ,aiguilles4 ,! ,p5n9es ( ! we/1 m especially ! ,val d',evolna1 h ! pleasant *>act]i/ic ( (f]+ %ort1 cond5s$ & possible climbs 9 bad seasons1 :5 ! bigg] peaks are unapproa*able1 & :5 ! ,ob]l& may be indulg+ its habit ( mak+ bad wea!r worse4 ,!y1 too1 are an excell5t introduction to m\nta9e]+2 b _! m9iature attractions h a some:at dang]\s fasc9ation = ,briti% climb]s1 :om !y are apt to hold spellb\nd ev5 9 good seasons1 & )draw f h>di] & great] ent]prise4 ,9 a fair summ]1 ! ,*amonix ,aiguilles are ! flame-po9ts on ! cr[n ( great rock climb+4 ,= l5g?1 & z a te/ ( skill1 !y h no equal 9 ,europe4 ,!y also include "s magnific5t sn[ & ice asc5ts4 ,b x is _! rock t m>ks !m out z supreme4 ,z a consequ5ce1 _m ,briti% climb]s make ! mi/ake ( go+ to !m too soon1 be=e !y are equal to _! dem&s4 ,x is bett] to keep !m z a great rew>d = lab\r :5 our develop$ m\nta9e]+ te*nique c enable u n only to ov]come1 b to enjoy ! inf9ite v>iety ( problems1 & :5 we c feel n only p>ticipators 9 an asc5t1 b ma/]s ( ourselves & ( ! difficulties ?r\gh\t _! exce$+ l5g?4 ,i h se5 m ?an "o ( ! mo/ not$ p]=m]s on ,briti% rocks & f ! ea/]n ,dolomites1 m5 :o c\ld frolic up ! ,grpon crack1 =c$1 f pure muscul> fatigue1 to ask = ! rope be=e ! ,grpon summit 0 rea*$1 & only r$iscov] ! pleasure ( ! asc5t ( ! ,dru a full day aft] _! return f ! trav]se4 ,to m5 :o c get all t !y want ( difficult rock 9 our own isl&s1 ! ,dolomites ( ! ,ea/]n ,alps pres5t few] attractions 9 sunny seasons4 ,_! great] di/ance is a disability1 & !y (f] small sn[ & ice practice4 ,b 9 bad seasons !y are an admirable la/ resort1 & an escape to _! w>m1 dry & col\r$ levels1 or r heights1 may s5d _m a p>ty1 disappo9t$ else:]e by ill wea!r ( its alp9e season1 home 9 good heal? & firm muscle4 ,! great s\!rn wall ( ! ,alps1 f ,c\rmayeur to ,macugnaga & f>!r1 (f]s ! greate/ comb9$ ice & rock m\nta9e]+ on ! l>ge/ & mo/ =midable scale4 ,= ^? :o "k its secrets !re is also ! attraction ( _m small] asc5ts1 ) ! incomp>able views z backgr\nd4 ,b x is n a region = bad wea!r1 or = any b v compet5t p>ties4 ,e>ly 9 ! season ! ,s\!rn ,alps1 f ,savoy & ,cogne almo/ d[n to ! ,m$it]ranean1 make an exquisite w&]+-gr\nd1 all too little visit$4 ,9 ,may & ,june we c (t5 enjoy among !m fl[]s1 cle> climb+ & free w&]+1 long be=e _! big nor!rn bro!rs h %ak5 (f _! w9t] coats ( sn[ & /orm4 ,!y reta9 mu* ( ! undiscov]$ *>m ( ! great ,alps 9 e>li] days1 & a v>iety ( beauty t c *all5ge comp>ison ) ! impressiv5ess ( great] heights4 ,i h int5tionally avoid$ m5tion+ ^? seclud$ & p>ticul> di/ricts :i* x mu/ be ! =tune ( all fai?ful m\nta9e]s to discov] = !mselves1 & :]e e ent]pris+ p>ty may ga9 ! rew>d ( its indep5d5ce & exp]i5ce 9 ! c]ta9ty t x has f\nd1 at la/ & alone1 ! "o p]fect region1 p]fectly contriv$1 = all purposes ( climb+ & enjoym5t4 ,,incid5tal ,,duties ,sid5ote3 ,hut ,usages4 ,laun*$ 9 8 *os5 region1 & ) 8 *os5 comrades1 ! managem5t ( a lead] has to obs]ve1 beyond 8 prim>y duty to 8 own p>ty1 "o or two usages ( an extrane\s or incid5tal "*4 ,if he is us+ huts1 9 ! ,alps or else:]e1 he %\ld acqua9t himself ) ! rules1 writt5 or n1 ( hut usage4 ,mo/ w sugge/ !mselves4 ,to tidy up & leave ev]y?+ 9 bett] ord] ?an he usually f9ds x4 ,if o!r p>ties are 9 ! hut1 to keep ! axes f cumb]+ ! gr\nd1 & conf9e ! wet clo!s & wet boots to h>mless corn]s4 ,to arrange provisions & ! re/ ! night be=e1 s z to dim9i% ! g5]al confusion 9 />t+ by at lea/ ! quiet exit ( 8 own p>ty4 ,to di/urb sleep]s z little z _! cu/om>y assumption1 t !y are ! only tir$ m5 :o may1 or w1 ev] use ! hut aga91 w g5]ally all[4 ,n to break op5 a hut or use any "p ( x = firewood except 9 desp]ate ne$2 & to pay some:]e1 or someh[1 = any inevitable or accid5tal damage4 ,!re is a fur!r duty1 :i* he owes to ! position ( 8 own p>ty & to t ( o!rs also occupy+ ! huts4 ,if 8 p>ty are m]ely gue/s1 !y are dep5d5t ^u ! c\rtesy ( o!r inhabitants = any treatm5t !y receive m cordial 9 "* ?an ! suff]ance usually ext5d$ to un9vit$ gue/s4 ,b if1 z e m\nta9e] 9 8 *os5 region %\ld d1 !y h made !mselves memb]s ( ! local organization1 he %\ld insi/1 )\t demon/ration1 = ! sake ( s\nd hut tradition z well z = ! improvem5t 9 ! morals & mann]s ( ! o!r occupants 7suppos+ !y %[ !mselves disoblig+71 ^u ! relations be+ ^? ( c\rte\s equality4 ,z betwe5 8 own & o!r amateur p>ties ?is insi/5ce w r>ely be ne$$2 = ! tradition ( comrade%ip among amateur climb]s ( all nations has seldom to be recall$ by remon/rance4 ,b z betwe5 8 own guides & o!r guides1 or o!r guides & 8 own guideless p>ty1 ! foot+ sometimes calls = a prompt cle>+ away ( ! /ones4 ,local guides are apt to take any advantage ( a =eign or y\ng] guide :o appe>s4 ,z is else:]e describ$1 ! m5tal attitude ( a guide 9 hut or hotel becomes g5]ally t ( ! s]vant or dep5d5t ( 8 employ]4 ,he is no long] ! free man on ! hills1 :o w be himself ! fir/ to res5t any incursion on ! rights ( 8 p>ty4 ,once 9 ! hut ! amateur1 9 8 turn1 becomes responsible = look+ aft] 8 guide4 ,a guide's hut mann]s prev5t him mak+ any fuss1 ev5 ?\gh 8 own p>ty's int]e/s are suff]+2 z1 = in/ance1 :5 he is depriv$ ( 8 prec$5ce at ! cook+-/ove1 or is left an unfair %>e ( ! collective wa%+-up4 ,l a swan on a new rea* ( a riv]1 ! "y or /rang] guide is v %y4 ,he w (t5 let himself be put ^u by "s p>o*ial swagg]] or bulli$ by a lazy s5ior ( 8 own valley4 ,x is 9 our own int]e/s1 & ! int]e/s ( ! future1 to protect him4 ,ap>t f ! local or ob/rep]\s guide1 ! wor/ (f5d]s aga9/ hut mann]s are n ! guideless p>ties1 :o are usually anxi\s to d z !y w\ld be done by1 b ! *ance #8pr(essors1' & o!r cunn+ folk1 :o h discov]$ t alp9e huts provide free summ] lodg+ = !mselves & _! families1 or ! erratic solit>y w&]]s & gr\p$ holiday tripp]s1 :o h nev] le>n$ m\nta9 mann]s4 ,) ^! types decid$ action1 or ! decid$ appe>ance ( passion1 is sometimes ! only c\rse4 ,x is only c\rte\s to use ! hut books :i* are provid$ = entries2 ev5 ?\gh ! sight ( our own names & objectives 9 o!r company may (f5d our ,briti% habit ( climb+ hauteur1 to :i* we ourselves give ! titul> rank ( mode/y4 ,! in=mation has a s5tim5tal int]e/2 x is requir$ by ! ma9ta9]s ( ! hut1 &1 fur!r1 x may be ( real s]vice if any?+ unt[>d happ5s & x becomes necess>y to foll[ ! traces ( our p>ty4 ,sid5ote3 ,consid]ation4 ,outside ! huts we h a duty also to ! fragile pa?s1 :i* lead u to ! glaci] or ! hut4 ,!y are easily depreciat$ by c>eless use1 especially 9 wet wea!r1 by break+ away ! edges1 kick+ d[n b\ld]s1 sli!r+ d[n incl9es1 etc4 ,beyond ! pa?s & ! huts1 !re is a fir/ law n to spoil ! m\nta9s3 to leave no traces ( meals on ! summits or hillsides4 ,:oev] discov]s a portable contrivance = atomiz+ old bottles w conf] an incalculable b5efit ^u consci5ti\s m\nta9e]s4 ,!re is also an obligation n to spoil ! m\nta9s = o!rs by he$less mann]s4 ,?is means n m]ely n to ?r[ or kick /ones on to o!r p>ties1 or to pass !m )\t _! cons5t1 :i* are matt]s t are regulat$ by positive m\nta9e]+ tradition1 b also n to treat !m #8negatively' :5 we meet !m on ! hills1 z if we 7 all pass]s-by 9 ! ,city at ! lun*eon-h\r4 ,i c call to m9d /ill ! annihilat+ />e ( a lady :om ,i met on ! top ( ! ,weis%orn1 because ,i v5tur$ to rem>k ab\t ! wea!r )\t wait+ = ! introduction :i* !re 0 no ?ird p>ty pres5t 9 ! va/ panorama to p]=m2 & aga91 two /]l+ ,britons pass+ on a track 9 ! highl&s ( ,arcadia )\t greet+1 because x transpir$ !y did n feel t _! slight degree ( acqua9tance 0 suffici5t to cov] a g5]al conv]sation 9 :i* two o!r memb]s ( _! p>ties1 n simil>ly acqua9t$1 w\ld h _h to be includ$6 ,^! are some:at f9e %ades to pres]ve "u primitive conditions1 & =eign]s are apt to misund]/& _! respectable orig94 ,x is bett]1 on ! :ole1 to be ?\ght a *e]ful idiot by our own c\ntrym5 if we hail _! di/ant appe>ance on ! *ance ( _! belong+ to a m sociable nationality1 ?an to e>n ! reputation ( racial surl9ess by all[+ our %yness ( :at our own p>ty may ?9k to prev5t u reply+ to ! %\ts ( /rang]s ( possibly m ,gallic temp]am5t4 ,x co/s little ef=t to make a *e]ful rem>k to ano!r p>ty on ! hills :5 we meet or pass !m1 & x saves an awkw>d re/ra9t on bo? sides if we are fat$ to meet !m aft]w>ds aga91 9 a hut or some:]e :]e we h to be toge!r 9 h>mony4 ,9 o!r c\ntries we may safely imitate m demon/rative ways )\t loss ( self-respect4 ,a c\rte\s mann] & a ready explanation w take ! edge ( (f5ce (f _m a decid$ c\rse ( m\nta9e]+ action1 t may run u = a :ile beside or across ! way ( o!r human be+s4 ,x might ev5 be bett] if we c\ld introduce into our *ance enc\nt]s on our own hills some?+ m ( a sup]ficial cordiality1 s z to acquire ! habit ( convey+ to /rang]s less obscurely ! und\bt$ fell[%ip we feel ) all o!r pilgrims ( ! m\nta9s4 ,( c\rse e lead] mu/ acqua9t himself ) ! code ( rescue signals n[ recogniz$ 9 ! m\nta9s1 by wav+ or fla%+ or %\t+4 ,b he %\ld fur!r consid] x z m ?an disc\rte\s to refra9 f reply+ to any %\t direct$ at himself or 8 p>ty4 ,x is impossible = him to "k by in/9ct :at is m]ely ! salute ( high spirits & :at may express "s m urg5t ne$4 ,simil>ly1 if "o memb] ( a p>ty gets sep>at$ f ! re/1 & is out ( sight1 x is n suffici5t = him m]ely to guide himself back secretly by _! %\ts2 he %\ld reply to ea* ( _! calls1 & s indicate t he is approa*+4 ,x is oddly irritat+ to keep %\t+ = an unse5 man1 realiz+ t 8 sil5ce may mean t he is gett+ m & m a/ray1 & !n see him walk r\nd ! next rock1 reprov+ by 8 sil5t proximity bo? our gr[+ anxiety & our clamor\s wa/e ( brea?4 ,our co-,britons w nev] %\t unnecess>ily1 & we %\ld reply ea* "t1 & leave ! int]pretation to !m4 ,sid5ote3 ,"s ,night ,notes4 ,9 us+ pa?s or tracks at night1 if a light _c be procur$1 x is wor? :ile rememb]+ t ! in/9ct ( ! feet is (t5 a bett] guide ?an ! /ra9+ ( ! eyes to see4 ,! feet1 left to !mselves1 w balance naturally along ! track1 mu* z ! orig9al mak]s ( ! natural pa?s f\nd x exp$i5t to balance ov] ! same gr\nd4 ,!y w be able to keep ! track bett] ( !mselves ?an if !y are driv5 =w>d by an ill-balanc$ body along an ill-se5 l9e4 ,a lead] foll[+ a track by daylight may (t5 wond] 9 advance at small w&]+s :i* seem to ! eye unacc\ntable2 b z soon z ! body 9 balance rea*es ! spot1 x foll[s _! sequ5ce q naturally4 ,left to !mselves1 ! feet & body w d mu* ! same 9 ! d>k1 & keep surpris+ly well ^u a track t is n arbitr>ily int]rupt$4 ,9 foll[+ a lamp1 unless ! lead] holds x himself1 8 be/ place is n t imm$iately beh9d ! lamp-be>]1 :i* ! selfi% w press =4 ,detail & dim outl9e ahead are bett] se5 f f>!r back 9 ! l9e1 :]e ! actual gl>e ( ! lamp is hidd5 & ! light is diffus$ ov] ! way4 ,! eye soon accu/oms itself to half-light1 b n to ! dazzle ( a flame4 7,to procure light = a lamp1 fire or pipe1 especially 9 a w9d1 a famili> me?od may n be univ]sally kn[n4 ,"p ( ! /]n ( a wax mat* %\ld be unravell$ & a few /r&s w\nd loosely r\nd ! head1 s z to cat* ! fir/ fl>e4 ,to light a wood fire1 9 camp or hut1 )\t pap]1 ! wood %\ld be %av$ ?9ly upw>ds t[>ds "o end ( a /ick4 ,! %av+s %\ld n be completely deta*$1 b left curl+ up at ! end l ! fl[] on a /alk4 ,lit at ?is end1 ! /ick easily burns & ! fire foll[s47 ,a compass & wat* ) radium po9ts are always useful = all night h\rs or hut int]vals4 ,if a pa? or track is lo/ 9 ! d>k1 especially on sn[-cov]$ gr\nd1 ! p>ty %\ld rope up at ! full l5g? ( ! rope1 & make ca/s r\nd ! end man1 :o waits at a fix$ po9t 'till x is1 or may be1 recov]$4 ,! motionless man at ! fix$ po9t acts z po9t] = ! orig9al direction1 & w prev5t ! complete loss ( ori5tation 9 ! circle ( se>*4 ,9 ! d>k on a track ! increas$ risk f ! axe-po9ts be=e & beh9d u1 z well z f our own1 mu/ be kept 9 m9d1 & extra int]vals ma9ta9$4 ,:]e !re is no track1 ! la/ man on ! rope %\ld c>ry ! radium compass & correct ! direction1 z 9 mi/4 ,ev5 )\t a compass he is ! bett] able to keep a l9e1 guid$ by ! rope ahead4 ,a lead] measur+ ! rema9d] ( a climb aga9/ ! com+ ( d>kness mu/ recollect t sn[ reta9s light v late--9 summ]1 9 fact1 x r>ely becomes q d>k4 ,b ! sn[less l[] slopes1 :i* he w rea* la/1 w be f> d>k]4 ,he mu/ n be deceiv$1 !re=e1 by ! app>5t am\nt ( light /ill illum9at+ ! high] sn[s1 into tak+ ?+s easily4 ,a p>ty frankly b5ight$1 if x has only a %ort di/ance to desc5d ov] gr\nd kn[n to be safe1 suppos+ t a "r r\te1 n difficult to f9d1 c be foll[$1 does be/ to rope up4 ,?is has ! m]it ( keep+ ! p>ty toge!r & 9 l9e1 & conf9es ! di/urbances ( fall+ ov] rocks & into holes to ! p]son ( ! responsible lead]4 ,if he gets b5ight$ on high] gr\nd1 z 9 ! ,alps1 or sees t he mu/ necess>ily become s1 ! lead] %\ld look ab\t = a good biv\ac be=e ! light fails2 n press on to ! la/ & !n take ! *ance ( hurri$ly f9d+ a suitable %elt] or l$ge4 ,:5ev] !re is no %ort or easy desc5t 9 ne> prospect1 & night is at h&1 x is always wis] to sit out = ! few h\rs ( d>kness ?an to let impati5ce risk ! *ance ( a spra9$ ankle or brok5 leg4 ,9 select+ a rock = a biv\ac 9 d\btful wea!r1 he has to rememb] t unless ! ro( is absolutely concave1 ra9 w trickle 9 & across ! ro( & make tr\ble ev5 f> )9 ! %elt]2 also1 t 9 sleep+ on rock or s& or turf x is m important to com=t to secure a hole = ! hip-bone ?an a pill[ = ! head ( 8 *>ges4 ,:]e only a l$ge is available1 ! memb]s ( a p>ty %\ld rope toge!r1 to prev5t anyone w&]+ away or slipp+ (f 9 sleep4 ,song promotes w>m?1 & pres]ves h>mony--9 a s5se4 ,sid5ote3 ,a ,la/ ,task4 ,( ! managem5t ( ! guides dur+ ! t\r some?+ is said 9 a lat] section4 ,if he has employ$ !m1 ! lead]'s la/ task ( managem5t1 "o ( regretful b presumably pr\d memory1 w be to write up ! guides' books4 ,8 fa%ion ( entry is gov]n$ by no tradition2 :i* makes ^! books ! m ent]ta9+ & v>i$ read+ dur+ dim days 9 ! huts4 ,b if he does n wi% to blu% 9 lat] ye>s ov] 8 e>ly p>agons & phrases1 & desires to make ! notice1 z x %\ld be1 ( "s s]vice to o!r lead]s1 he may be guid$ by "o or two common-s5se pr9ciples4 ,a m\nta9e] ( exp]i5ce1 :5 he looks at a guide's book be=e engag+ him1 looks fir/ = ! signatures he kn[s1 !n at ! op9ions ab\t ! guide :i* !y und]write1 & makes 8 all[ance = ! op9ions accord+ to 8 k ( ! m\nta9e]+ equation ( ! own]s ( ! names4 ,secondly1 he looks at :at ! man has done1 bo? ) ! names he kn[s & ) ! names he does n "k4 ,! op9ions ( ^? :om he does n "k he reads m]ely 9 relation to ! actual climbs :i* ! man is /at$ to h done ) !m4 ,?us1 :5 we are writ+1 s9ce our "n is likely to be kn[n b to few1 especially among climb]s ( o!r races1 x is ( importance fir/ to /ate cle>ly :at ! man has done ) u1 & "u :at conditions1 ( wea!r1 p>ty1 etc42 m p>ticul>ly1 to /ate if he has #8l$1' & :at1 or if he has come z second guide or port]4 ,!n1 = ! b5efit ( our own race1 :o w "k h[ to int]pret ! #8atmosph]e' ( an ,engli% te/imonial ev5 ?\gh !y d n "k our "n1 we may add an op9ion ( ! man1 writt5 v c>efully s z to be read 9 relation to t :i* we h /at$ he has done ) u4 ,= in/ance1 if we h includ$ sev]al big sn[ climbs among our li/1 & !n write our op9ion t ! man is a #8brilliant rock climb]1' ^? :o c read te/imonials w "k :at to conclude ab\t 8 iceman%ip4 ,if we wi% to gu>d aga9/ su* a conclusion be+ drawn1 & yet h _h no opportunity ( =m+ a cle> op9ion1 we %\ld add some?+ conv5tional1 su* z t ! man #8_h no opportunity to lead on sn[1' or t #8! climbs mu/ speak = !mselves3--! conditions 7 p]fect4' ,at ! end ( a li/ ( f9e asc5ts to say only t a man is #8will+1' leaves u 9 ! d>k z to h[ f> he took any real "p4 ,to say t he is #8ent]pris+' gives a cle>] idea ( 8 initiative4 ,if ! conditions ( any climbs on ! li/ are /at$ to h be5 try+1 & ! op9ion adds t he is #8safe & good-temp]$1' we h le>n$ some?+ positive to g ^u4 ,^! are small in/ances4 ,! comm5ts %\ld only be made ) def9ite reg>d to :at we h se5 & :at we /ate to h be5 execut$ 9 our employm5t4 ,unrelat$ g5]alities are valueless4 ,simil>ly1 we mu/ conf9e our appreciations to :at our exp]i5ce enables u to say ) au?ority4 ,x is bett] = ?is reason to ref] our e/imate to an absolute /&>d ( m]it1 su* z o!r m\nta9e]s w und]/&1 ?an to indulge our fri5d%ip by writ+ a "* t means no?+ to ! initiat$1 & may get ! man a place ( responsibility ) ! un9itiat$ = :i* he is n fit4 ,our fir/ duty is to o!r m\nta9e]s4 ,to say a man is a #8fir/-class rock climb]1' if we feel ourselves compet5t to pron\nce s mu*1 is a def9ite classification2 b to say he is a #8fir/-rate rock climb]' is to err into ! mean+less weakness ( sup]latives4 ,to say he is a #8f9e iceman' gives ! guide ! b5efit ( an au?oritative ref]5ce to an accept$ /&>d2 b to say #8!re is no f9] iceman 9 ! ,alps' risks ! call+ ( our own exp]i5ce 9 "q by ^? to :om our qualifications = mak+ su* a /atem5t are unkn[n1 & does ! guide little good4 ,we are all incl9$ to ?9k t our fir/ good guide1 or ! man :o has br\ght u well ?r\gh a difficult situation1 mu/ be ! f9e/ fell[ 9 ! ,alps2 & 9 ! mom5ts ( g5]\s aft]-en?usiasm we are 9 a hurry to say s ) an emphasis t we hope w conv9ce a cold-blood$ lat] read] t he is at lea/ a v f9e fell[4 ,we produce ! same effect bett] by /at+ exactly :at he did1 & our op9ion ( ?is r ?an ( him1 leav+ x to o!r lead]s to draw _! own conclusions ab\t ! man himself4 ,we avoid !n = ! guide ! p]il ( t natural revulsion t[>ds an attitude ( antagoni/ic criticism into :i* all nor!rn humanity is prone to lapse 9 ! pres5ce ( o!r p's en?usiasm1 & = ourselves ! tol]ant smile ( ! "t & guide worn m\nta9e]4 ,:5 we read 9 a guide's book1 return+ l an e*o f ! records we wrote 9 our own e>li] & romantic days1 t #8!re is no great] rock climb] 9 ! pres5t g5]ation1 a born iceman1 an intuitive r\te-f9d]1 a delightful companion & an unrivall$ cook1' we turn on ha/ily to ano!r ref]5ce1 ) yet a half-sigh ( good *e] & ?ankfulness = ! assurance t "o m v "y climb] has />t$ :olehe>t$ly on our pleasant m\nta9 ways4 ,,wea!r ,!re is "o v>iable :i* belongs to ! m\nta9e]+ r ?an to ! human division ( ! problems ) :i* managem5t has to deal4 ,! wea!r is ! backgr\nd1 =egr\nd & middle di/ance ( all big m\nta9e]+4 ,a *ange c upset ! nice/ adju/m5t ( a climb to ! /r5g? ( a p>ty or to ! l5g? ( a day4 ,e climb] keeps "o eye on ?is irresponsible neutral1 :i* may at any "t turn ! scale ( ! campaign aga9/ him4 ,z a result1 no m\nta9e] w endure1 & no lead] c af=d1 n to be ?\ght a good wea!r prophet1 ev5 ?\gh ! reputation be conf9$ to 8 own m9d4 ,9 reality1 s unacc\ntable are *anges 9 ! hills1 any fame acquir$ = infallibility mu/ be ! result ( a l>ge %>e ( good =tune4 ,! happy confid5ce 9 8 own =eca/s1 t e lead] owes x to 8 p>ty to display1 c only be bas$ ^u a few broad consid]ations1 & ^u bluff4 ,no previ\s appe>ance ( a m\nta9 sky c be tak5 z sure gr\nd = c]ta9 prophecy4 ,a p>ticul> w9d or #8sign' may mean totally diff]5t wea!r 9 two adjac5t valleys2 or ! :ole doctr9e ( ! w9ds may be unacc\ntably rev]s$ 9 an exceptional season4 ,9 ! ,alps1 = in/ance1 a nor? w9d usually means cle>1 brisk1 settl$ wea!r2 a we/ w9d1 ! cont9uance ( unsettl$ wea!r2 a s\? w9d1 a succession ( /orms t come & pass4 ,b ! seasons f #aiji to #aiab w provide in/ances ( ! nor? w9d bl[+ cont9u\sly ?r\gh alt]nate days ( excessive & mod]at+ ra9 & sn[1 & ( ! s\? & we/ w9ds att5d+ an unbrok5 season ( hot sun%9e4 ,a lead]1 !re=e1 besides 8 gr\ndwork ( elem5t>y k1 has to make himself acqua9t$ ) local signs ( w9d & wea!r 9 e season & 9 any new di/rict2 ) su* details1 = in/ance1 z t 9 ! ,z]matt valley 8! wea!r comes f ! we/10 or t 9 ,c\rmayeur we wat* ! s\? & we/ & d n bo!r ) any?+ nor? ( ! range4 ,fur!r1 t 9 ! ,ob]l& a nor?-we/ w9d br+s /orm1 b a nor?-ea/ w9d br+s cle>+ wea!r2 t bad wea!r foll[s closely on a w9d bl[+ ov] ,col ,!odule & r\nd ! we/ ( ! ,matt]horn1 b t a w9d ov] ,col du ,lion & r\nd ! ,matt]horn to ! ea/ is a fair-wea!r sign4 ,he has to discov] ! relation :i* ! prevail+ w9d be>s to ! wea!r conditions ( a p>ticul> season or mon?4 ,! "o ?+ he c c\nt ^u is ! habit t wea!r e/abli%es 9 ! ,alps dur+ two summ]s out ( ?ree ( rema9+ "o ?+ or ! o!r = a cont9u$ p]iod1 once x has />t$1 & ( return+ to ?is #8habit ( ! season' :5ev] !re are n evid5t signs t x means to recomm5ce or cont9ue a spell ( *ange4 ,! sci5tific /udy ( wea!r1 & its pr$iction by ! b>omet] & !rmomet]1 are matt]s = a :ole book1 & ! au?oritative textbooks are available4 ,in/rum5ts l>g] ?an ( pocket size are some?+ ( an encumbrance to a climb+ p>ty1 al?\gh ,i h always made an exception 9 fav\r ( ! pocket an]oid1 because ( ! excell5t hum\r ) :i* x blesses its possessor :5ev] its /atem5ts & ^? ( ! atmosph]e or ! map happ5 to co9cide4 ,i limit myself "h to recall+ briefly "s ( ! visible1 ord9>y & less esot]ic #8signs' :i* h prov$ ( common use 9 my own exp]i5ce1 m especially 9 ! ,alps4 ,sid5ote3 ,cl\ds4 ,cl\ds =m our pr9cipal sign4 ,x is important to rememb] t cl\ds1 :ile !y cont9ue to reta9 _! orig9al =m1 :atev] t may be1 w inflict no ra9 on u4 ,x is _! *anges1 :5 !y alt]1 t we wat*1 & we pr$ict ra9 or n accord+ to _! "* dur+ & aft] ! *anges4 ,we di/+ui% betwe5 ! upp] /rata ( cl\ds1 ^: "* & direction are important z giv+ u ! ev5tual direction ( ! w9d & ! m p]man5t "* ( ! wea!r1 & ! l[] /rata1 :i* h only a mean+ = ! day or h\r1 & are n prophetic4 ,9 g5]al1 cl\ds 9 ! ea/ alone are a fair sign2 cl\ds 9 ! we/1 especially d>k cl\ds1 mean ra9 soon4 ,high-travell+ cirrus cl\ds port5d ra94 ,9 ! ,alps1 :]e ! w9ds are our real prophets1 a di/9ction is introduc$3 cirrus1 high & fa/ on a s\? or s\?-we/ w9d1 has its usual mean+2 b cirrus on a nor?1 ea/ or s\?-ea/ w9d may accompany or1 m r>ely1 prec$e good wea!r4 ,ca/ellat$ cirrus is always a bad sign1 &1 :]e ! horizon c be se51 ! appe>ance ( cirrus 9 b&s l5g!n+ up t[>ds ! z5i? 7cirro-/ratus7 is an unwelcome ev5t4 ,dappl$ cirrus1 ! s-call$ #8roses' ( ! s\? & ! #8%eep flocks' ( ! nor?1 implies a *ange ( w9d & wea!r4 ,z ! pres5ce ( high cirrus1 ^u :i* ! *ange ( w9d c produce ! dappl+1 usually means1 9 ! m\nta9s1 t unc]ta9 or bad wea!r has be5 prec$+ ! *ange1 ! dappl+ is mo/ (t51 & ) ju/ice1 tak5 z a good sign4 ,if1 h[ev]1 ! wea!r has be5 dull1 ) m]ely cl\ds ( heat1 & ! w9d has be5 good be=e1 ! *ange port5d$ w be probably = ! worse4 ,cumulus cl\ds1 :5 !y t[] rapidly1 & m especially :5 !y #8topple ov]1' or %[ a t5d5cy to d s1 are signals ( a *ange to ra94 ,a sure me?od ( obs]v+ cumulus is to wat* "s small portion ( ! cl\d = a space ( "t4 ,if x gr[s l>g]1 ! sign is a *ange = worse wea!r2 if x ravels out & disappe>s on ! w>m air r\nd x1 ! sign is = good1 & ! cl\d c be disreg>d$4 ,/ratus1 ! long /ratifi$ b&s ( cl\d at any height1 means bad wea!r1 & ! t5d5cy ( cirrus or cumulus to /ratify is om9\s4 ,! edges ( cl\ds tell u mu* ( _! import3 h>mless if !y are filmy & ravel out on ! w>m] air2 suspici\s if !y are h>d1 heavily outl9$ or *>g$4 ,an approa*+ ra9-cl\d 9 action is recognizable by ! v]tical or slant+ l9es 9 ! air bel[ x1 or by ! #8torn lace' on ! l[] edge4 ,a hail-cl\d %[s heavi] l9es4 ,a sn[-cl\d c>ries full]1 h>d] m>g9al protub]ances1 & may be light] 9 tone4 ,heavy cumulus ( ?is cumbr\s sort may (t5 surprise /rong sunlight by a sudd5 sn[-break4 ,usually we g by temp]ature & height 9 pr$ict+ if a #8wet' cl\d w break 9 ra9 or sn[4 ,high #8m>e's-tails' betray w9d1 & pr$ict ra9 accord+ to _! direction4 #8,fi%' cl\ds po9t+ ea/ & we/ usually mean f\l wea!r2 po9t+ nor? & s\?1 fair wea!r4 ,black wisps ( cl\d be=e sunrise1 especially 9 a cle> sky1 mean e>ly ra94 ,light]-ton$ wisps at ?is h\r h no signification4 ,b if ! l[] edges ( cl\d-films are *>g$ & d>k1 look+ l ink :i* has run d[n into ! bord]s ( blott+-pap]1 we look out = ra94 ,long f+]s ( cl\d radiat+ f a peak port5d /orm1 p>ticul>ly if any "o ( !m betrays ! typical ?und]-curve4 ,?und] on a peak means sn[1 s we mu/ look out = a cold & electric day4 ,?und]-cl\ds are easily di/+ui%able4 ,_! =m is always simil>4 ,! duplicat$ outl9e 9 ! masses ( cl\d above & bel[1 ! connect+ d>k] neck betwe51 & ! leaf-l & inv>iable curve ( /r5g? :]e ! neck runs out into ! pr(ile l9e ( ! upp] mass1 are suffici5tly di/9ctive4 ,a little fur!r obs]vation w enable _! l9es ( sy/em & ! probable direction ( _! movem5t to be locat$4 ,! l[] mass ( cl\d may1 9 cases1 be abs5t1 b ! truncat$ #8neck' & ! leaf-l #8curve' w always enable u to id5tify !m4 ,sid5ote3 ,w9d4 ,ev5 m ?an ! cl\ds1 once we h discov]$ ! habit ( ! ye> & ! local signs1 ! w9ds are our firm basis = =eca/4 ,! nor? w9d 9 ! ,alps is usually = good1 ?\gh 9 a bad season ( habit x may1 if long cont9u$1 br+ sn[4 ,! s\? w9d is always fraught ) suspicion1 until x ju/ifies x4 ,x br+s a succession ( /orms1 b leaves f9e int]vals4 ,! we/ w9d1 if cont9u\s1 means ! cont9uance ( unsettl$ wea!r1 ) an incl9ation to pres]ve :atev] may be ! habit ( ! ye>4 ,x is p]haps ! mo/ =cible & try+ ( w9ds to enc\nt] on ! ridges expos$ to x4 ,! ea/ w9d is infrequ5t & r>ely long cont9u$4 ,its port5t is fav\rable4 ,! s\?-we/ w9d means ra9 to foll[4 ,a *ange f nor? to nor?-we/ ?reat5s ra94 ,a *ange f s\?-we/ to nor?-we/--g5]ally a w9d on its way to becom+ a nor? w9d--means a *ange = ! bett] 9 bad seasons4 ,s\?-ea/1 & especially nor?-ea/1 w9ds %>e ! good qualities & projects ( ! ea/ w9d4 ,! curr5t ( ! ,fhn is recognizable by its accompany+ oppression ( w>m-p>*$1 or 9 cases ( w>m-moi/1 atmosph]e1 & by its depress+ effect ^u our spirits4 ,x is a h>b+] ( evil ( all k9ds4 ,its own =]unn]s are (t5 a mass+ ( heavy-bord]$ cl\ds accompani$ by a ?reat5+ vividness 9 all visible coloration4 ,! ,fhn is said to be able to infect1 or m probably alt]nate )1 any w9d f any qu>t]2 b we "k ( x 9 summ] usually 9 ! s\? or s\?-we/ w9ds4 ,9 ! s\? x is #8dry1' 9 ! s\?-we/ x is #8wet1' ,fhn4 ,its pres5ce ru9s ! be/-direction$ w9d2 x und]?aws ! sn[ dang]\sly & spoils our temp]s inexplicably4 ,sudd5 gu/s & r\nd-!-compass w9ds are ( ill om54 ,z betwe5 cross-curr5ts ( w9d1 at diff]5t levels1 ! high] alone is wor? att5tion4 ,valley curr5ts1 p>ticul>ly ^? (f glaci]s1 are only mislead+4 ,! simple sky signs1 famili> n only 9 m\nta9s1 give u fur!r assi/ance4 ,sid5ote3 ,signs 9 ,g5]al4 ,a r$ sunrise is bad2 a r$ sunset good4 ,sunrise on a grey sky means a fair day2 sunset on a grey or pale yell[ sky means a ra9y day1 on a bright yell[ sky a w9dy day4 ,a #8high dawn1' ! sun %[+ fir/ ov] a vap\r belt1 is an ill sign2 a #8l[ dawn1' ! sun leap+ f ! horizon1 a good sign4 ,if ! di/ant sky at dawn1 especially to ! we/1 is l[ & d>k1 !re w be break+ wea!r by noon4 ,a d>k blue sky tells ( w9d1 & probably ra9 to foll[2 a light blue sky is ( fair wea!r4 ,all ov] bright or gaudy col\rs at sunrise or sunset1 & all h>d outl9es1 =etell ra9 & w9d4 ,delicate col\rs1 well-bl5d$ tones & filmy cl\d edges are f9e-wea!r prophets4 ,r+s r\nd ! sun or moon1 & vivid tw9kl+ />s 9 ! lat] night1 are bad signs4 ,cle> nights ( cold1 & calm & quiet />s be=e dawn1 are good4 ,heavy dews & ! fall+ ( ! w9d at sunset are good signs4 ,! cle>ness & ne>ness ( di/ant hills1 except j aft] ra91 is a bad sign2 b "h we may di/+ui% betwe5 a cle> l&scape :5 we face t[>ds ! sun1 :i* is an ill sign1 & a cle> l&scape z we /& ) our back to ! sun1 :i* is q usually a fair sign4 ,asc5d+ mi/s on hillsides are bad4 ,mi/s 9 valleys at ev5+1 cl\ds lift+ at sunset1 & hilltops smok+ _! pipe ( ev5+ peace1 are good4 ,w>m airs z we pass up ! l[] alps or ?r\gh ! p9ewoods mean u well2 b w>m nights on ! height & 9 ! hut1 or ! sickly puffs ( w>m brea? t meet u f ! l>ge crevasses z we />t up ! glaci] be=e dawn1 are om5s ( ill wea!r4 ,e>ly ra91 #8ra9 be=e sev51' has no s]i\s mean+2 x r>ely la/s4 ,e>ly :ite mi/s %\ld nev] fright5 u f />t+1 b we mu/ judge !m by feel1 texture & direction ( movem5t4 ,an e>ly om9\s mi/ has a diff]5t quality1 & lies diff]5tly f a simple mi/ ( ! h\r4 ,dur+ ! day feel+ or in/9ct is /ill our pr9cipal guide z to ! durable "* ( *anges or ( ?reats ( *anges4 ,m especially we g by ! feel+ ( ! w9d4 ,) a good w9d1 local cl\ds may be disreg>d$4 ,! eye le>ns to di/+ui% betwe5 ! heavy lead5-edg$ look ( an increas+ mi/1 & ! peculi> silv]y wet aspect1 m>k$ly r\nd its edges1 ( a mi/ t is 9 process ( absorption 9 w>m atmosph]e4 ,"o ( ! mo/ beautiful1 & baleful1 w>n+s 9 ! ,alps is ! view out & across a gold5 sea ( cl\ds wa%+ up out ( ,italy or f ! s\?4 ,!y (t5 signify ! ,fhn4 ,s long z ! w9d bl[s (f ! m\nta9s1 !y w be kept bel[ = ! day2 b once !y beg9 to make brea*es 9 ! walls & surge ov] ! battlem5ts1 a bad aft]noon or morr[ is 9 prospect4 ,! *ange f _! gold51 fairy-l di/ant greet+ to _! wet1 cold & gloomy embrace makes u reluctant to recall t !y are really ! same cl\ds we admir$ ^? h\rs be=e4 ,on l>ge peaks !re may be sev]e local /orms ev5 :ile ! sky 9 g5]al rema9s undi/urb$4 ,rock peaks1 = example ! ,matt]horn1 are conspicu\s (f5d]s4 ,a small bli/] ( d>k1 /eady cl\d may imply a rag+ /orm on ! face bel[ x4 ,n only at ! mom5t1 b z x affects ! lat] condition ( ! m\nta91 ! occurr5ce ( ^! /orms has to be reckon$ )4 ,f a spell ( cov]$ or ( brok5 wea!r we look = a cle>+ sn[fall z our deliv]ance2 & ! m confid5tly if ! w9d has cont9u$ ?r\gh\t to bl[ f a good qu>t]1 nor? or ea/4 ,if ! fall is foll[$ by cle> days & ?ree cold nights1 we %all f9d our high ridges 9 p]fect condition aga94 ,if ! wea!r cont9ues brok5 & !re=e w>m]1 ! sn[ w at lea/ n h made ?+s worse2 x w h ?aw$ rapidly4 ,x is also wor? rememb]+ t 9 w>m]1 brok5 wea!r :at has fall5 z sn[ at "o level may h be5 only ra9 at ano!r1 ev5 at a high]1 & ! mom5t ! cl\ds cle> we %all1 be able to pr(it by ! calculation4 ,i h kn[n ! same /orm to h fall5 z ra9 9 ! valley1 sn[ on ! slopes1 & ra9 aga9 on ! high ridges4 ,sid5ote3 ,habit ( ! ,season4 ,! habit ( ! season is always ! fir/ matt] ( /udy on return+ to ! hills4 ,9 a habitually f9e season1 x is safe to g up to a hut ev5 on a bad day1 on ! fair *ance ( a f9e recov]y on ! morr[4 ,= ! same reason1 9 a habitually bad season1 x is too late to wait = ! f9e day1 & !n g up to ! hut or out to ! camp4 ,a lead] :o braves ! ridicule ( ! hotel & ! gloom ( ! glass1 & takes 8 p>ty up to ! hut1 ) hope undim9i%$ by failure1 on bad days 9 unc]ta9 seasons1 w cat* ea* %ort break z x comes1 & get a record ( climbs t w %ock 8 valley advis]s4 ,he mu/ base 8 *oice1 z betwe5 ! bad days1 ^u 8 obs]vation ( ! habit t is gov]n+ ! vag>ies ( ! season4 ,a v common feature1 9 unfav\rable alp9e mon?s1 is ! alt]nations ( possible & impossible wea!r occurr+ almo/ e day--a wet day1 foll[$ by a f9e morn+2 a break+ aft]noon1 & aga9 a wet day4 ,x is ?us mo/ important to 8get ! alt]nate "r10 & to correct ! ord] ( 8 go+1 if to asc5d to ! hut on ea* fir/ f9e day proves disappo9t+4 ,9 a rec5t s-call$ #8bad' season a p>ty asc5d$ ?irte5 peaks 9 ?ree weeks1 by gett+ _! #8alt]nates' "r at ! />t1 :ile mo/ p>ties got only f\r or five exp$itions 9 ! same "t4 ,occasionally ! alt]nate is "o f9e day1 or f9e half-day1 9 e ?ree4 ,to meet ?is habit1 or to discov] ! ord] ( ! alt]nates 9 ! fir/ place1 x is s\nd to take up two full days' provisions to ! hut1 & to wait !re = a day1 if ! fir/ day fails to *ange4 ,a f9e morn+ w suffice = mo/ climbs suitable = unc]ta9 wea!r1 & a p>ty :o h _h c\rage1 & fac$ ! mi/1 & enjoy$ ! empty hut at night & a long fair morn+'s climb1 w (t5 be grant$ ! extra pleasure ( meet+ ! usual cr[d sw>m+ up to ! hut 9 ! aft]noon1 att5d$ by e sign ( ! regul> return ( cl\ds & ra94 ,sid5ote3 ,p]si/5ce4 ,! real pr9ciple is to keep on try+ 9 un*ancy seasons1 & back up ! ef=t by :atev] wea!r in/9ct or opportunity ( obs]vation we may enjoy4 ,9 valleys cont9u\sly cl\d-cov]$ obs]vation becomes unc]ta92 (t5 ! wea!r may be already cle> at high] levels :ile x lurks 9 mi/ 9 ! valleys4 ,in/9ct z mu* z judgm5t mu/ !n tell u if we may *ance a />t1 on ! probability t ! cl\d is really ?9 & ! summits 9 sun4 ,an attempt is always wor? :ile if ! p>ty is gett+ depress$ by a succession ( days ( idle cl\d 9 ! hotel4 ,*ance (t5 helps our pr$ictions4 ,! occasions :5 in/9ct or a mom5t>y sight ( ! high] & important cl\ds has giv5 ! impulse1 add$ to ! occasions :5 a bold face has be5 assum$1 9 spite ( a l[ blanket ( mi/ r\nd ! hut or hotel1 & a />t has be5 ord]$ on ! *ance at ! be/ ( cle> wea!r above & at ! wor/ ( a brac+ tramp up & back1 all tak5 toge!r h made _m a la/+ reputation = miracul\s wea!r wisdom4 ,"s ( ! mo/ endur+ m\nta9 memories are ( days ?us retriev$ f weeks ( ill wea!r1 & sp5t ^u sunny peaks project+1 ) only a few isolat$ & l(ty companions1 f ! seas ( cl\d t cov]$ all ! valleys & l[] heights1 & ) !m mo/ ( our less =tunate fell[s4 ,until we possess local wea!r k1 & h r m to g ^u ?an bluff1 a climb %\ld nev] be actually />t$ 9 ?reat5+ wea!r1 /ill less p]si/$ 9 aga9/ bad wea!r2 :i* is a diff]5t ?+ f insi/+ ^u go+ up to ! hut or to ! base ( ! peak on ! *ance ( a *ange4 ,sn[1 & cont9u$ ra91 :i* may mean sn[ at high] levels1 mu/ be accept$ z def9ite b>s to />t+ at all4 ,cl\d1 h[ev]1 is less ju/ifiably us$ z an excuse = delay 9 leav+ a w>m hut on a dull morn+4 ,! p]sonal bias 9 pr$iction mu/ be all[$ = be=e dawn4 ,guides1 :o are too (t5 treat$ z infallible prophets1 are z susceptible z amateurs1 at ?is h\r especially1 to speci\s prompt+s f ! _s ( com=table inaction4 ,!y are apt to delay a />t h\r aft] h\r1 9 a hut or camp1 = ! mi/-bank to cle> & ! day to %[ its h&2 & ?is ) entire unreason4 ,if ! wea!r is go+ to cle> at all1 x w d s at ! e>li] h\r at high] levels2 & x is common s5se n to lose valuable "t4 ,! soon] we g up ! soon] %all we meet ! sun1 or f9d out t x is n !re = ! day4 ,ev5 a /ay 9 a hut is m tol]able ?an conf9em5t 9 an hotel4 ,= ?is reason1 & to save ! "t & pati5ce sp5t ^u go+ up & d[n f ! hut1 z well z to be on ! spot to cat* ! "r day1 x is (t5 pleasant] to /ay up at ! hut1 & s5d d[n a port] ea* day = provisions4 ,we are !n ready :5 ! *ange comes 9 unc]ta9 seasons4 ,sn[fall1 h[ev]1 ) its hopeless prospect & unpleas+ *illy pres5ce1 w suffice to s5d u d[n )\t "q4 ,cont9u$ sn[ w s5d u yet fur!r2 unless we c arm ourselves ) ! %ort summ] ski4 ,9 t case we may /ill refuse to admit defeat1 & m9t gold5 days out ( ! a%es ( a he>tless season4 ,i am speak+ "h only ( wea!r 9 ! ,alps4 ,9 m di/ant & less hospitable ranges1 :]e ! base camp & ! rescue ( civilization are m remote1 ! same p]si/5t c\rse _c be ma9ta9$ 9 face ( cont9u$ bad or *angeable wea!r4 ,9 small climb+1 z 9 ,brita91 we ne$ n reg>d wea!r at all4 ,x en=ces all ! obs]vation x des]ves by ! def9ite limits :i* wet or sn[y rocks put ^u ! degree ( difficulty :i* x is safe or com=table = u to attempt1 & by ! tempor>y discom=ts & re/rictions t w9d or sn[ inflict ^u our daily exp$itions4 ,,tra9+ ,sid5ote3 ,! ,framework4 ,if any layman 9 anatomy has ev] kept 8 f+]s on trunk or sides :ile walk+ d[n or up hill1 he w h be5 a/oni%$ at ! am\nt ( "w t is done by gr\ps ( muscles :olly remote f ! calves or ?ighs ^u ^: developm5t he has pr\dly reli$4 ,suppl5ess & an ev5 developm5t ( h>d5$ muscle all ov] ! body are :at tell 9 climb+1 n local bulges4 ,mo/ m5 are design$ by nature to develop mo/ spr+1 suppl5ess & /r5g? at a po9t ( g5]al muscul> developm5t :i* w nev] e>n _! portraits a place beside ! corrugat$ limbs ( ! g5tlem5 on ! ho>d+s4 ,( c\rse a naturally big-muscl$ man mu/ rema9 big-muscl$4 ,b x is ! quality ( ! muscle t c\nts4 ,:atev] !re is1 l>ge or small1 x has to be spun into f9e silk4 ,any ef=t to develop unduly "s gr\p ( muscles1 9 arm or leg1 w ev5 prejudice ! ease ) :i* a man c recov] 9 tra9+ ! h>moni\s control ( 8 ma*9]y at its be/1 & ! artificial muscle is apt to deg5]ate into fat :5 he goes out ( tra9+4 ,a man1 ev5ly develop$ accord+ to 8 pot5tial /r5g?1 ev5 :5 he goes out ( tra9+ has little difficulty 9 pres]v+ a level1 if l[]1 plane ( g5]al fitness & suppl5ess2 & :5 ! "t comes = w9d+ up or = relax+1 8 condition moves ev5ly & easily up or d[n1 & he is ready1 9 a few days if he is "y1 9 r m z "t goes on1 to climb aga9 at 8 be/4 ,to keep 9 mod]ate tra9+ out ( season1 any regul> ex]cise 9 ! op5 air is suffici5t :i* ex]cises diff]5t p>ts ( ! app>atus ( ! body 9 _! relation to "o ano!r1 & :i* holds ! att5tion4 ,monoton\s repetitions ( p>ticul> muscul> movem5ts are ( little s]vice4 ,!y bore ! m9d & we>y ! n]ves2 & x is ! int]work+ ( 8 n]ves1 muscles & w t a climb] has to tra94 ,if he is prev5t$ by circum/ances f gett+ op5 air ex]cise1 he may f9d f5c+ ! mo/ effective1 conc5trat$ & la/+ indoor practice :i* he c fit conv5i5tly into 8 work+ day4 ,an h\r's h>d f5c+ ) bo? h&s1 compris+ ex]cises1 free play & a cold d\*e to f9i%1 uses e muscle & connection ( ! body to ! full1 b risks no local /ra94 ,= 9 f5c+ e movem5t mu/ be supple & yet controll$2 ! :ole sy/em is kept conc5trat$1 & at full t5sion1 ^u movem5ts m9ute1 quick & f9e4 ,! tra9+ 9 rapid adju/m5ts & lightn+ reactions is invaluable to ! climb]1 & its unboi/]\s "* makes x possible ( cont9uance )\t prejudice well into old age4 ,if he c face !m1 danc+ & skipp+ are admirable ex]cises to ! same end4 ,tree climb+1 or ev5 hay/ack climb+1 :]e possible1 are also f9e climb+ practice4 ,swimm+ & scull+ ex]cise organs & muscles smoo?ly & develop !m ev5ly4 ,swimm+ has no equal z an ex]cise = gr[+ /r5g?4 ,x runs no risk ( viol5t local /ra91 & x _c be cont9u$ beyond ! po9t ( :olesome fatigue4 ,9 all its v>ieties & att5dant circum/ances x comb9es m educative m]its ?an any o!r =m ( op5 air sport4 ,my own view is t ! developm5t ( special gr\ps ( muscles is be/ left = ! climb+ days !mselves to effect4 #8,morn+ ex]cises1' be=e ! cold ba?1 are excell5t to get ! circulation "r1 & bett] ?an no?+ = climb]s ^: day all[s !m no m :olesome outdoor activity4 ,among special ex]cises ,i %\ld put fir/ ^? t /r5g!n ! =e>m & f+]s1 = #8gripp+'2 ^? t build up ! muscles ( ! trunk1 :i* h ! greate/ %>e ( "w to d 9 climb+2 ^? t tra9 ! body to balance easily up & d[n on "o leg1 = balance2 & ^? 7if !re are any b wood *opp+7 :i* prep>e ! %\ld]s & trunk = ! movem5t ( /ep cutt+4 ,b ! work+ 9 easy comb9ation ( gr\ps ( muscles is :at ! climb] aims at4 ,excessive ex]cise ( indep5d5t gr\ps is apt to militate aga9/ quick muscul> int]action4 ,x is well1 !re=e1 to make movem5ts 9 comb9ations1 & con/antly to v>y !m4 ,?is helps to keep ! att5tion conc5trat$4 ,s does a look+-glass4 ,bor$om invalidates ! :ole ef=t4 ,ea* movem5t %\ld repres5t a sep>ate ef=t ( ! w4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,organs4 ,= a climb] ! lungs & he>t mu/ be ! *ief c>e4 ,! action ( walk+ uphill1 ! lift+ ( foot & arm cont9u\sly & ) ef=t1 make a su/a9$ extra dem& ^u ^! organs especially4 ,9 climb+ !y h to supply ! fuel consum$ 9 muscul> ef=t1 & to ?r[ (f ! poison\s residue1 9 great] quantity ?an 9 normal action1 & at an increas$ pace4 ,! effects ( ! extra ef=t1 %ortness ( brea?1 fatigue1 exhau/ion1 ev51 9 cases1 suffocation1 are symptoms ( ! failure ( ! he>t & lungs1 9 v>y+ degrees1 to ma9ta9 ! equilibrium betwe5 ! supply & dis*>ge ( fuel4 ,! muscle cells & ! lungs are be+ />v$ ( _! sub/ance1 & ! acids are accumulat+ too rapidly to be naturally got rid (4 ,! he>t is consequ5tly enfeebl$1 ! lungs get *ok$1 & ! exhau/ion increases progressively4 ,! sev]e muscul> /ra9 ( a difficult rock feat is 9 ?is way d\bly exhau/+4 ,! local t5sion is consum+ ! muscle cells at an abnormal rate1 & !re=e putt+ an excessive dem& ^u ! he>t & lungs to keep !m suppli$2 & at ! same "t ! contraction ( all ! great muscles ( ! trunk1 involv$ 9 ! local ef=t1 is compress+ ! great organs f outside1 & ?us imp$+ _! action 9 produc+ ! increas$ supply requir$4 ,h5ce ! #8pant+' ( an untra9$ climb] aft] any sev]e rock passage1 h[ev] %ort ! ef=t4 ,n[1 bo? he>t & lungs c le>n by practice to p]=m _! normal functions at m ?an d\ble _! normal rate1 & yet to ma9ta9 ! equilibrium 9 ! supply & dis*>ge ( fuel su* z is ne$$ to all[ !m to cont9ue _! free action4 ,h5ce a climb] is conc]n$ to accu/om 8 he>t to accel]ate1 )\t enfeebl+ its action & ?us dim9i%+ ! am\nt ( fuel :i* ea* pulsation is supply+4 ,also1 s to ex]cise 8 lungs t a numb] ( brea?+ sacks1 n usually employ$1 may be ready & accu/om$ = easy use :5ev] ! extra call may be put ^u !m4 ,by practice a numb] ( dormant lung sacks1 z well z ^? 9 normal use1 may be actually increas$ 9 ela/icity & volume1 s t ! lungs z a :ole w be prep>$ to receive a f> great] quantity ( #8brea?1' :5ev] t may be requir$ = a great] ef=t4 ,! tra9+ = ! he>t is a regul> & increas+ graduation ( ef=t1 develop$ 9 heal?ful ex]cises su* z walk+1 runn+1 swimm+1 wood *opp+1 etc41 & practis$ until ev5 a viol5t or long-su/a9$ ef=t c be made )\t pant+ or discom=t4 ,! tra9+ = #8brea?' is deep brea?+2 f ! bottom ( ! lungs1 & ?r\gh ! nose z mu* z ?r\gh ! m\?2 practis$ ei!r 9 ! c\rse ( natural op5 air ex]cise1 or1 almo/ z effectively1 by sl[ inhalation & exhalation1 = a few mom5ts ea* day1 9 ! be/ air obta9able4 ,to increase ! capacity ( ! lungs is to increase ! *e/ measurem5t1 t heal?ful vanity :i* m\nta9e]+1 above all ex]cises1 flatt]s4 ,contr>y to our ideas z boys1 ?is is effect$ f ! inside1 by brea?+1 & n f ! outside1 by arm ex]cises1 etc4 #8,*e/' ex]cises1 inde$1 help to make supple ! ligam5ts ( ! outside framework1 & s p]mit ( a great] ela/icity 9 ! brea?+ cells )94 ,o!rwise !y are only ( use 9 s f> z !y dem&1 or are accompani$ by1 deep brea?+4 ,sid5ote3 ,w & ,n]ves4 ,a climb] has also to rememb] ! v active %>e t 8 w p[] mu/ take 9 difficult or prolong$ m\nta9e]+4 ,he dep5ds ^u 8 w to supply to a l>ge ext5t ! impulse1 physical & moral1 :5 n]ves & muscles beg9 to %[ signs ( unwill+ s]vice4 ,among "s ( ! greate/ ( m\nta9e]s1 w has to a notable ext5t suppli$ ! place ( physique4 ,!y h climb$ on _! #8vitality1' z we say2 on ! success ( _! w 9 ma9ta9+ ! impulse to movem5t long aft] ! muscles h prote/$ _! inability to cont9ue ! rate ( consumption ( en]gy4 ,! impulses ( ! w are communicat$ physically4 ,_! transmission exhau/s n]ve-fibre z mat]ially z muscul> action4 ,z ! muscles tire1 ! messages f ! w quick5 & increase4 ,! n]ve transmitt]s get irritat$1 & f9ally revolt4 ,z a result1 we h ! frequ5t m\nta9e]+ symptoms ( ennui1 irritation1 consci\s fatigue &1 9 extreme cases1 ( complete n]v\s incapacity to resolve ^u mak+ ano!r /ep4 ,b ! n]ves call = a truce be=e ! muscles are actually exhau/$4 ,! muscles1 male fa%ion1 inv>iably protect !mselves by reta9+ "s res]ve ( en]gy1 if only a way c be f\nd ( exact+ x4 ,"s new int]e/ or excitem5t may d ?is2 ! messages are !n swit*$ on to o!r n]ve-l9es1 ! conge/ion ( monotony is reliev$1 & ! w resumes control ( ! communications1 to ! ext5t ( obta9+ :ole h\rs ( fur!r ef=t f ! /rik+ muscles4 ,b tra9+ (f]s u a sur] way ( po/pon+ or avoid+ ^! /rikes4 ,! body is animat$ 9 two fa%ions f ! sp9al n]ves3 by ! messages t pass ?r\gh ! bra9--,i speak z a layman--& by ^? :i* s]ve t my/]i\s b autocratic reg5t ( our habits1 ! #8subconsci\sness4' ,"u ! latt] are gr\p$ all our automatic actions1 & ! m actions we c qualify = admission to its extremely select gr\p ( well-ord]$ subjects1 ! few] sequ5ces ( ord]s w ! dictator-bra9 h to promulgate on _! acc\nt1 & ! less conge/$ w be ! n]ve-l9es ( communications4 ,walk+1 = in/ance1 is1 ) mo/ p1 a subconsci\s action4 ,once ! impulse to /ep out has be5 giv51 ! legs w cont9ue to walk automatically s long z ! look or feel ( ! famili> smoo? surface cont9ues to sugge/ ! famili> reflex4 ,a *ange ( surface may di/urb & !re=e make ! ef=t consci\s2 o!rwise ! walk+ c be ma9ta9$ )\t fatigue = a mu* long] "t ?an ! same gr\p ( muscles c\ld h held out _h !y be5 p]=m+ "s unfamili> action1 & !re=e be5 "u ! direction ( consci\s impulses4 ,! human frame1 9 atta*+ itself at two1 ?ree or f\r po9ts to any ord9>y surface1 is capable ( only a limit$ numb] ( positions4 ,holds ^u rock or ice1 suitable = use1 n unnaturally recur frequ5tly 9 simil> gr\p+s ^u ! same type ( surface4 ,consequ5tly1 !re are :ole s]ies ( positions ( ! body & limbs :i* are con/antly repeat+ !mselves 9 climb+4 ,! m ( ^! subconsci\s associations :i* a climb] c succe$1 by practice1 9 e/abli%+1 z betwe5 famili> sequ5ces ( holds & automatic adju/m5ts ( 8 motions to _! requirem5ts1 ! few] calls w he h to make ^u n]ves & w1 & ! great]1 !re=e1 w be 8 endurance4 ,x is l>gely on ?is acc\nt t a climb]1 z he gets exp]i5ce1 f9ds t he c climb ) always decreas+ ef=t4 ,x is = ?is reason also t long1 cont9u\s rock ridges1 ) (t-recurr+ situations1 =m ! be/ initial tra9+ = "y m\nta9e]s & ! be/ annual re9troduction = _! eld]s4 ,a climb] :o c get away1 if only = a day or s1 at frequ5t int]vals1 to rocks small or big beh9d 8 h\se or on conv5i5t hills1 secures ! be/ tra9+ = 8 balance1 8 n]ves & 8 muscles1 n by attempt+ extravagant gymna/ic problems1 b by practis+1 & always add+ to1 ! numb] ( 8 sequ5ces ( famili> climb+ movem5ts4 ,he mu/ le>n to p]=m ^! ) su* facility t1 f9ally1 _! execution becomes subconsci\s4 ,on a long climb t5 out ( e twelve situations w be famili> to exp]i5ce4 ,suitable tra9+ w enable him to meet ^! t5 ) ! "r motions1 )\t consci\s ef=t1 automatically4 ,! n]ves & ! w-p[] are ?us economically kept 9 res]ve = ! rema9+ two4 ,sid5ote3 ,n]ve4 ,_m ( u take a day or two at ! beg9n+ ( ! season to get back our #8n]ve4' ,we boggle at a bold rea*1 or feel incl9$ to crawl :]e we "k we %\ld /ride4 ,?is is n due to any f9e new s5sitiv5ess to m\nta9 dang]1 acquir$ dur+ our civiliz$ soj\rn 9 ! pla9s2 x has no?+ to d ) v]tigo or effect ( height4 ,x is simply lack ( condition4 ,by inaction we h all[$ sets ( automatic motions to become unfamili>4 ,! w has1 !re=e1 to take *>ge1 & does s t5tatively1 l a pr(essor ( metaphysics left 9 *>ge ( a class ( elem5t>y s*ool-*ildr54 ,! n]ve communications are sluggi% f disuse2 ! muscles are out ( control1 & di/ru/ful ( :at ! arbitr>y w may ask ( !m4 ,we become #8n]v\s1' & pott]4 ,?is c all be avoid$ by reasonable & light practice4 ,regul> ex]cise ( ! he>t1 ! lungs1 ! muscles & ! n]ve-l9es ( communications1 ) occasional repetitions ( our gr\ps ( famili> subconsci\s motions1 w ma9ta9 a g5]al level ( fitness ev5 out ( tra9+4 ,if ! ma*9]y is kept work+ smoo?ly1 we c soon get x go+ at high pressure aga91 & c return to top condition )\t any local /rikes or n]ve signals4 ,! f9al tun+ up to meet ! call ( ! m\nta9 holiday w !n proce$ easily1 ( itself1 9 action4 ,= a man ^: sy/em is set1 & :o practises a consi/5t habit ( liv+1 ! am\nt ( actual ex]cise requir$ dur+ ! int]vals to pres]ve 8 ela/icity is usually small1 & t5ds to dim9i%4 ,?is is "o ( ! comp5sations ( advanc+ ye>s4 ,sid5ote3 ,height & ,rea*4 ,no man by any pleas+ aft]?\ght c add to 8 height2 al?\gh by suppl+ 8 %\ld]s & l5g!n+ by ex]cise 8 trunk muscles he c ext5d 8 app>5t upw>d rea*4 ,! /ride ( ! tall man be=e u ov] s(t sn[2 ! long-arm$ man's c>eless c>ess ( a salvation hold well beyond our rea*2 ! inimitable & p]petual rhy?m ma9ta9$ by ! ,agile ,gibbon ( ! ,zoological ,g>d5s1 on ! security ( 8 f\r :ipla% limbs1--^! are natural advantages1 ^: inju/ice we may *all5ge b n compete )4 ,_! regretful contemplation sugge/s1 h[ev]1 ! possible usefulness ( a w>n+1 & "s consolations4 ,a man ( great rea*1 ^: span f toe to up/ret*$ f+] approa*es or exce$s eight feet1 has "o und\bt$ advantage on difficult rocks1 :]e holds are r>e & preci\s4 ,if 8 legs are long en\gh to all[ him to sit across ! smoo? %e] walls ( a *imney or to /raddle x on small foo?olds1 he has yet ano!r4 ,b he mu/ expect to suff] f ! drawbacks incid5tal to height4 ,a tall man may be weak 9 ! body muscles1 ) less suppl5ess & ease ( balance1 or1 if he is muscul>ly develop$ all ov]1 8 weight is apt to increase ) "t out ( all proportion to ! susp5sory p[] ( 8 f+]s on small holds4 ,if he is tall1 slight & s9ewy1 8 /r5g? ( arm & h& is r>ely proportionate to 8 great] weight1 or equal to ! great] exp5diture on lev]age :i* height requires ( arms 9 balance climb+4 ,if he is tall1 muscul> & heavy1 ?is weakness pursues him 9 ! same ratio4 ,if *imneys are n>r[1 he is too long to #8bridge' !m securely2 if ! holds are tricky & slight1 he f9ds great] difficulty & ef=t 9 #8fold+ up' s z to use !m1 & 9 keep+ 8 c5tre ( balance well 9 & above 8 feet4 ,x is a consolation = a %ort or slight man t great exp]ts 9 climb+ are to be f\nd among m5 ( e build1 ) a prepond]ance 9 fav\r ( ^? ( m$ium height & ( s9ewy & supple r ?an ( big muscul> developm5t4 ,! outside feats ( rock climb+1 ! abnormal climbs made by a few m5 9 rec5t ye>s1 und\bt$ly require abnormal /r5g? ( f+] & arm1 n seldom accompani$ by great size ( h&4 ,b ^! m5 h also possess$ an equal developm5t ( /r5g? & rhy?m 9 body & leg2 _! all-r\nd design has be5 abnormal4 ,:51 z 9 "o or two cases1 _! exceptional physical developm5t has be5 assi/$ by great height or great rea*1 )\t loss to rhy?m or balance or to ! /]l+ quality ( supple s9ews1 ! p]fection ( ! climb+ ma*9e has be5 atta9$4 ,= ! normal climb] to imitate ! p]=mance ( ^! m5 is to incur a proportion ( dang]1 ! measure ( ! int]val betwe5 _! abnormal rea* & p[] & 8 own1 express$ 9 t]ms ( all too di/ant or too indef9ite rock holds1 su* z no sane man has ! "r to risk f any emulative or competitive feel+4 ,e climb] has to recognize t !re is an absolute upp] limit to t :i* x is physically possible = a body ( 8 design1 :5 develop$ to its utmo/1 to p]=m4 ,if he conc5trates ^u an ev5 & effici5t tra9+ ( 8 own measure ( p[]1 & climbs always well )9 8 confid5t capacity1 he w h ! gratification1 z "t goes on1 ( f9d+ t 8 improv+ k ( himself1 add$ to 8 increas+ exp]i5ce1 enables him1 little by little1 to r$uce ! m>g9 betwe5 8 own a*ievem5ts & ! humanly impossible4 ,by a pleas+ accid5t 9 rock /ructure1 rock is ei!r utt]ly impossible1 smoo? or /ratifi$ at gigantic int]vals1 or its cleavages & intrusions1 & consequ5tly its holds1 occur at int]vals )9 ! av]age man's rea*4 ,:ile a tall man has1 !re=e1 a great] *oice ( holds1 qualifi$ 9 8 case by a great] ef=t 9 us+ !m1 a %ort] man has only to p]fect 8 skill1 & to pr(it by 8 lightness & balance1 to be able to keep level ) him 9 p]=mance on all normal rock4 ,aga9 ,i except ! sup]man climbs1 :i* are climbs made by exceptional m5 ^u exceptional accid5ts 9 rock /ructure4 ,z a fur!r comp5sation1 peculi> to advanc+ ye>s1 a lightly built man :o lives heal?ily f9ds less difficulty 9 recov]+ a condition ( h>d tra9+ & 9 keep+ up 8 /&>d ( a*ievem5t4 ,failure 9 w9d or increase 9 weight may make ! process ( recov]y long] ea* ye> by a few days1 b he has n ! h&icap to cont5d ) :i* ?reat5s ! big or heavily muscl$ man1 :o requires con/ant & int5sive ex]cise to *eck ! local deg5]ations :i* increase ) "t4 ,climb+ is "o ( ! few ex]cises t c be cont9u$ well into :at us$ to be deem$ old age4 ,tra9$ n]ve1 t\gh s9ew1 supple muscle1 exp]i5ce 9 adju/m5ts1 9 balance1 9 =esight & 9 economy ( /r5g?1 comp5sate = ! loss ( y\?1 = its fire & spr+4 ,an old climb] ( ! balance s*ool c m\nta9e] 9 ! front rank until ! la/1 &1 by a happy comp5sation :i* no o!r int]e/ enjoys1 :5 ! det]ioration ( ! body f9ally beg9s & ! natural p[]s fail1 ! desire = ! fi]c] emotions ( difficult climb+ cont5t$ly dim9i%es4 ,9 _! place ! inexhau/ible m\nta9s discov] a :ole range ( subtl] s5sations2 return+ = our feet ! e*o ( lo/ rhy?mic movem5ts p]fect$ by complac5t memory1 & us+ ev5 ! %ad[s ( our sunset ye>s to ?r[ into relief treasures bo? ( human & picturesque int]e/1 :i* 7 unnotic$ or hurri$ ov] 9 ! daylit en?usiasm ( a?letic y\?4 ,,pace ,pace is a matt] ( vital importance 9 m\nta9e]+ ( any magnitude4 ,un=tunately1 guide-books ( rec5t ye>s1 by record+ ! #8be/ times' tak5 on asc5ts = future guidance1 h giv5 a c]ta9 am\nt ( enc\ragem5t to rac+ = records & s to competitive climb+4 ,a confusion has ?us be5 produc$ betwe5 pace & rac+ 9 ! m9ds ( _m s\nd m\nta9e]s4 ,! m]e m5tion ( ! ^w #8pace' provokes !m to a prote/ aga9/ record-break+4 ,a natural1 b equally dang]\s1 reaction has foll[$1 :i* condemns consid]ation ( #8times' altoge!r1 & advocates 8idl+ on ! great ridges0 z ! peculi> joy ( ! guideless or ! true-he>t$ m\nta9e]4 ,sid5ote3 ,adju/m5t ( ,"t4 ,pace does n mean rac+4 ,x means ! adju/m5t ( ! l5g? ( ! climb to ! l5g? ( ! day1 & ! adju/m5t ( ! progress ( ! ( climb] to ! l5g? ( ! climb4 ,a c]ta9 am\nt ( gr\nd mu/ be cov]$ 9 all great asc5ts1 & !re are only c]ta9 h\rs ( daylight 9 :i* to cov] x4 ,no m\nta9e] is compet5t :o _c relate 9 advance ! measure ( daylight at 8 disposal to ! measure ( ! di/ance to be trav]s$1 & keep to t measure 9 action4 ,only ! m5 :o "k h[ to save "t ^u ?is calculation h x to sp5d ^u h\rs ( luxuri\s re/ & int]val4 ,!re is no?+ m fatal to pleasure or to safety ?an to realize1 p]haps too late1 t ! race ) d>kness & b5ightm5t has begun4 ,^? :o are l\de/ 9 ! valley 9 _! prote/ aga9/ climb+ by ! wat* are ! mo/ (t5 *all5g$ or beat5 by night 9 ?is1 ! mo/ dang]\s =m ( rac+4 ,sid5ote3 ,b5ightm5t4 ,gett+ b5ight$ is n a pleasure1 & x is r>ely necess>y4 ,x has be5 giv5 a false halo ( romance by ! practice & ! picturesque descriptions ( a numb] ( guideless m\nta9e]s1 :o fir/ r5d] x inevitable by attempt+ :at is beyond !m1 or by c>ry+ great weights1 & !n seek to conv9ce !mselves & ! _w t ! consequ5t night out on a l(ty l$ge or glaci] =ms an ess5tial & agreeable "p ( m\nta9e]+4 ,x is nei!r4 ,on a r>e occasion x may be unavoidable1 z ! result ( un=ese5 circum/ances1 bad wea!r or alt]$ conditions com+ on too late to all[ ( ! prop] alt]native1 :i* is to turn back 9 "t4 ,if b5ightm5t is frequ5tly incurr$1 x is a sign ( "s grave defect 9 m\nta9e]+ judgm5t4 ,z a habit x is folly4 ,by daylight ! climb] has ! hundr$ *ances ( activity1 w>m? & sight 9 8 fav\r4 ,at night he is ! passive & bl9d$ recipi5t ( any evil *ance t /orm1 cold1 w9d1 illness or accid5t may br+ him4 ,to be on a m\nta9 unprep>$ at night is to increase ! p]c5tage ( dang] incalculably2 & />s1 sunrise & sunset c be enjoy$ )\t its unacc\ntable risk4 ,mo/ ,european m\nta9s are ( a height to be climb$1 ) a reasonable calculation ( pace1 9 a s+le day4 ,:5 !y are beyond ?is range1 huts are to be f\nd1 or a biv\ac c be contriv$4 ,! night out by int5tion at ! beg9n+ ( an asc5t has m ?an ! romantic pleasure1 because none ( ! dang]\s discom=t1 ( ! night out by miscalculation at its end4 ,?is reasonable anticipation presupposes a precise e/imate 9 advance ( ! pace requir$1 z well z ( ! l5g? ( ! climb4 ,su* an e/imate does n mean fix+ su* & su* h\rs = s mu* ( ! ridge1 & s mu* "t = e halt1 :i* is slav]y2 b x implies a g5]al preconsid]ation ( :at gr\nd mu/ be cov]$ & )9 :at g5]al divisions ( "t c]ta9 fix$ po9ts %\ld be rea*$ 9 ord] to all[ ( a safe return by daylight4 ,pace is ! regulation ( ! progress1 & ( ! halts1 ( ! p>ty 9 relation to ^! g5]al fix$ po9ts4 ,sid5ote3 ,weight ,h&icaps4 ,to c>ry unnecess>ily heavy loads z a precaution aga9/ cold or hung] 9 case ( b5ightm5t--a v common cu/om--is to increase ! actual probability ( ! ev5t by fur!r *eck+ ! rate ( progress4 ,x is bett] to g z light z possible1 ) ! m9imum ( portable protection suffici5t to pres]ve life 9 case ( ill-=tune1 & to conc5trate all ! en]gy ^u a timely conque/ ( difficulty1 su* z w ensure a return be=e night4 ,! muscles1 n unduly weight$1 mu/ see to x t !re is always a m>g9 ( "t 9 h& ^u ! e/imate1 to all[ = un=ese5 *ecks4 ,) reg>d to ?is !re is ano!r common error4 ,^? :o confuse pace ) rac+1 picture a p>ty ru%+ brea?lessly ov] easy & difficult alike1 & pant+ at _! re/-po9ts wat* 9 h&4 ,z a reaction f ! picture1 !y !mselves make ! long1 easy passages t con/itute ! major "p ( mo/ asc5ts ! occasion = a rel5t+ r ?an a quick5+ ( pace2 ) ! result t !y h no m>g9 ( "t = ! un=ese5 or ! unexpect$ly difficult passages4 ,a p>ty t does good times takes ea* passage at ! maximum pace consi/5t ) com=t1 all[+ = its degree ( difficulty4 ,x has consequ5tly always "t 9 h& to all[ ( leisurely exploration1 :5 f\nd exp$i5t1 & ( a m c>eful ov]com+ ( ! real problems :5 !y occur4 ,sid5ote3 ,cont9u\s ,go+4 ,pace means ! cont9u\s progress ( a p>ty ov] ! :ole l5g? ( a climb1 all[+ reasonable v>iations = m complicat$ passages or = halts4 ,x w be f\nd t a p>ty t does good times r>ely hurries4 ,x is1 aft] all1 human1 & x dislikes be+ press$4 ,nor has x any ne$ to be4 ,an exp]i5c$ p>ty />ts sl[ly--m sl[ly1 usually1 ?an less exp]t climb]s4 ,x kn[s t pace to be good mu/ be ef=tless1 & mu/ become me*anical1 & t ! muscles mu/ be giv5 "t to get w>m & "w up to _! automatic rhy?m4 ,once ?is rhy?m is atta9$ x w1 = ! sake ( good progress1 avoid alike bo? hurry+ & frequ5t halt+4 ,to hurry w int]f]e ) ! bodily functions1 & react ^u he>t & lungs & w2 & to halt w di/urb ! rhy?m & *ill ! muscles4 ,x w aim at cont9u\s /eady go+1 & save its seconds & m9utes ov] gr\nd ( easy movem5t1 ready to sp5d "t freely aga9 s z to economize ef=t on m difficult passages4 ,sid5ote3 ,comb9ation4 ,comb9ation is ! secret ( sav+ seconds4 ,consid] = a mom5t ! case ( a rop$ p>ty t has n le>n$ ! secret ( pace1 & is mov+ all toge!r on easy rock4 ,inatt5tive to a common rate1 "o man lags1 "o goes unev5ly1 !re is con/ant *eck or turn+ r\nd to talk1 ea* ) its break ( cont9uity ( rhy?m4 ,on a ?ree h\rs' trav]se ( brok5 ridge half an h\r w h be5 lo/ only 9 dis5tangl+ ! rope on su* int]rupt$1 unev5 go+4 ,! lead]1 at ! end1 w be vex$ at ! %ort] "t giv5 9 ! guide-book1 & expo/ulate1 ) ju/ice1 8,:y1 ,i 0 hurry+ all ! "t60 ,or aga91 wat* a p>ty ( av]age amateurs mov+ "o at a "t on /eep rock4 ,! fir/ man rea*es 8 l$ge1 pre5s 8 plumes = a second or two 9 ! sun ( 8 success1 possibly discusses x 9 detail ) 8 second man bel[1 looks r\nd = a hold or belay1 takes a position1 alt]s x1 & %\ts1 8,come along40 ,! second calls1 8,are y all "r80 ,! fir/ man is di/urb$1 readju/s 8 body1 gets back to ! old position1 & says 8,yes10 or 8,half a mom5t40 ,?irty seconds or m w be gone be=e ! second man c />t4 ,he rea*es ! l$ge1 does n take note ( ! fir/ man's position = hold+ be=e x is surr5d]$ to him1 & has to r$iscov] x anew1 all ) ! same delay2 & ano!r half-m9ute is gone4 ,if ?is p]=mance is repeat$1 z x w be1 sev]al hundr$ times 9 ! day1 by "o or m ( a p>ty1 two invaluable h\rs at lea/ w h dropp$ completely out ( ! all[ance ( "t = ! climb6 ,! p>ty w rememb] t !y did _! actual climb+ fa/2 on _! return !y w look up ! bett] #8times' ( ! book1 & abuse _! pr$ecessors = #8rac+1' = #8dang]\s pace1' etc41 :]eas ! only diff]5ce has be5 t _! pr$ecessors sav$1 :ile !y wa/$1 innum]able1 all-important1 int]v5+ seconds4 ,sid5ote3 ,halts4 ,cont9u\s progress is ! ess5ce ( pace4 ,:ile a p>ty is 9 motion1 ! ef=t %\ld be direct$ at keep+ ! pace con/ant1 n at hurry+ x4 ,!re w !n be l>g] m>g9s = complet] re/s at ! prop] halt+ times & places4 ,"t c also be sav$ dur+ halts4 ,x is a great mi/ake to hurry m5 ov] _! food2 a due all[ance ( "t %\ld be made bo? = food & re/4 ,b ! "t ( re/ %\ld be us$ = re/+4 ,too mu* ( x is usually lo/1 & m ?an int5d$ is (t5 tak51 9 /&+ ab\t at ! beg9n+ ( a halt1 or by slackness at ! end3 "o man has misplac$ 8 axe2 ano!r f9ds out = ! fir/ "t t 8 puttie wants rew9d+2 & s on4 ,once ! "t all[$ = ! halt is ov]1 ! pack+ & re/>t %\ld be brisk & imm$iate4 ,re/ int]vals are assur$ly a "p ( ! day's measure1 b dawdl+ at _! edges is "t lo/ f ! climb+ h\rs1 n "t add$ to ! re/+4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,maximum ,rhy?m4 ,mov+ sl[ly is n less ef=t ?an mov+ reasonably fa/4 ,! muscles 9 movem5t g5]ate _! own w>m?1 :i* is ! body's en]gy4 ,muscles :5 9 tra9+ c consume & create _! own en]gy at m ?an _! normal rate )\t m ef=t4 ,! maximum pace = a man is ! highe/ rate ( ef=t at :i* 8 sy/em w c>ry on its functions )\t dem&+ direct impulses ( w f ! bra91 & )\t g5]at+ m wa/e matt] ?an x c naturally consume & dis*>ge4 ,ea* man has 8 maximum rhy?m1 :i* v>ies accord+ to 8 condition4 ,up to ?is maximum he c climb1 :5 9 tra9+1 )\t feel+ increas$ fatigue4 ,above x1 8 sy/em w soon feel symptoms ( exhau/ion2 bel[ x1 he gets no pr(it f ! relaxation1 & ev5 suff]s "s prejudice to 8 en]gy 9 ! loss ( a su/a9$ rhy?m4 ,! pace ( a p>ty is ! maximum rhy?m ( its weake/ memb]4 ,a good m\nta9e]+ p>ty mov+ cont9u\sly & 9 comb9ation 9 ! common "t ( its com=table maximum rhy?m w ga9 /eadily on a less exp]i5c$ rope1 al?\gh x may all[ itself long] def9ite int]vals ( 8idl+ on ! great peaks10 & sp5d ev5 m mom5ts on its difficult passages4 ,! m>g9 9 "t :i* x w save w s]ve1 on a well-calculat$ day1 to see ! p>ty ( su/a9$ pace d[n to easy go+ be=e d>kness4 ,! "o p>ty w be home to d9n]2 ! o!r may be /ill /ruggl+ at midnight ) ! quadrupl+ ( difficulties night br+s 9 its tra91 or sitt+ out & reliev+ its feel+s by accus+ ! =m] p>ty ( #8rac+4' ,gradual beg9n+1 gradual accel]ation & un9t]rupt$ mov+ on a /eady top-ge> ( com=table pace keep a p>ty fre%1 & leave x free to appreciate ! beauty ( ! day or ( ! climb4 ,its m9d is reliev$ ( c>e z to a timely return1 & x c enjoy a m>g9 ( leisure1 :5 x pleases1 9 pleasant exploration1 9 essay+ exp]im5tal r\tes or 9 ! m$itation t mimics slumb]4 ,! real fre$om to re/1 to idle & to enjoy !mselves :]e & :5 !y w1 is only = ^? :o h ! measure ( _! day well 9 h&1 & :o "k t _! collective pace1 _! maximum rhy?m ( com=t1 be=e x c rise to a rate ( disagreeable ef=t1 has a po9t or two ( pressure /ill to sp>e1 to recov] lo/ gr\nd or to meet em]g5cy4 ,,footnotes3 #a ,except :]e x is expressly /at$1 or is pla9 f ! context1 t ! ^w #8lead]' ref]s to ! #8fir/ man' on ! rope1 x is us$ ( ! mo/ exp]i5c$ m\nta9e] ( a p>ty1 ! "o :o ex]cises ! functions ( manag] 9 matt]s ( organization or arrangem5t & ( lead] or director 9 ! actual bus9ess ( climb+4 #b ,see 8,equipm5t10 pp4 #hb & #hf4 #c ,see 8,sn[ ,craft10 p4 #ccb4 ,,*apt] ,,ii ,,equipm5t ,,= ,,! ,,alps ,,by ,j4 ,p4 ,,f>r> ,,equipm5t ,too mu* att5tion _c be paid to ! "q ( equipm5t4 ,! c>eful m\nta9e] mu/ always be prep>$ to face bad wea!r & ! possibility ( an involunt>y biv\ac :5 ! exposure maybe v sev]e4 ,at ! same "t1 8 outfit mu/ be z light & simple z possible4 ,my recomm5dations are bas$ on ! exp]i5ce ( a great _m ye>s' active s]vice 9 m\nta9e]+1 dur+ :i* ,i h _h to face mo/ ( ! cont+5cies :i* ! pursuit involves4 ,sid5ote3 ,boots4 ,boots %\ld be made ( v /\t c[hide1 unl9$1 work$ to ! s(tness ( ?ick bucksk94 ,! back & sides %\ld be 9 "o piece 7#8navvy back'7 & ( r ?9n] hide1 & z s(t z bucksk9 gloves4 ,! front "p mu/1 above all ?+s1 n be tight ov] ! big toe-jo9t :i* ne$s pl5ty ( play1 or ov] ! toes1 i4e4 !re mu/ be pl5ty ( height 7i4e4 l a modifi$ ski-boot7 z well z wid? = ! toes4 ,! te/ is1 t "o mu/ be able to move "o's toes readily--9 fact1 crumple !m up inside ! boot4 ,! boots mu/ fit tightly ov] ! in/ep1 s z to prev5t ! foot jamm+ =w>d :5 desc5d+4 ,! eyelet holes %\ld be close toge!r1 n m ?an half an in* c5tre to c5tre1 ! fir/ & la/ ones be+ put close to ! ends ( ! lac+4 ,! tongue ( ?91 s(t lea!r mu/ be sewn to ! sides4 ,= _m ye>s ,i h _h ! upp]s ( my boots made v %ort--j ov] ! ankles l a r high %oe 7f\r in*es f ! top ( ! heel to ! upp] edge74 ,!y leave ! foot v free1 light5 ! boot1 &1 :5 prop]ly fitt+ & ( s(t lea!r1 lace up tightly & prev5t any sn[ or /ones gett+ into ! boot1 ?us disp5s+ entirely ) putties or gait]s except on big1 cold sn[-m\nta9s4 ,! soles %\ld be n ov] -in* ?ick1 & ! same ?ickness 9 ! wai/4 ,!y %\ld n project1 b mu/ give wid? en\gh = a full tread4 ,! heels %\ld be n m ?an "o in* ?ick1 made long & r project+1 s z to give a firm1 wide tread4 ,!y mu/ be sewn--n pegg$--to ! sole4 ,fatal accid5ts h occurr$ ?r\gh ! heel te>+ away f ! sole4 ,att5tion mu/ be paid to ! inn] sole or floor ( ! boot1 ! edges ( :i* mu/ be bevell$ (f or !y w damage ! sole ( ! foot4 ,a loose sole ( cork or felt %\ld be worn inside ! boot4 ,i disp5se ) toecaps1 or h a v %ort "o j cov]+ ! ends ( ! toes1 z ,i h nev] f\nd a bootmak] :o c\ld put on a toecap ( ! regul> l5g? )\t contract+ ! end ( ! boot & compress+ ! toes 9 a dang]\s mann]4 ,! ord9>y bootmak] kn[s no?+ ab\t an alp9e boot1 :i* is v diff]5t f a %oot+ boot4 ,! fault ( ,swiss-made m\nta9 boots is t ! lea!r is v h>d & ! boots mu* too cumb]some & heavy4 ,a guide's equipm5t is ! v la/ to be imitat$4 ,! measurem5ts = boots %\ld be tak5 /&+ ev5ly on bo? feet & ov] ! m\nta9 sock & /ock+ int5d$ to be worn4 ,! boots mu/ n press uncom=tably at any po9t ev5 :5 q new4 ,!y ne$ n p]mit ( ! inn] sole be+ worn = ! fir/ "t or two ( us+1 b mu/ aft] !n p]mit ( lac+ up q tightly4 ,no hesitation mu/ be p]mitt$ 9 reject+ boots t d n fit p]fectly well1 z damag$ feet may lay a man up & cause 8 p>ty delay & loss4 ,( c\rse1 a m\nta9 boot %\ld be brok5 9 be=eh&4 ,a good pair ( ,london-made boots w co/1 pre-w>1 f #b1 #ajs4 to #c1 & are wor? ! money4 ,! fit & make ( boots is ( ! utmo/ importance4 ,boots tight 9 ! toes co/ "o ( my companions ! loss f fro/-bite ( ! toes ( bo? feet4 ,nev] let y\r boots out ( y\r possession4 ,boots burnt 9 ! dry+ caus$ sev]e fro/-bite to a v well-kn[n alp9e climb] & ,himalayan explor]4 ,an unl9$ boot su* z describ$ w dry v quickly if /uff$ ) dry pap]1 hay1 /raw or oats--*ang$ at int]vals--& only requires a little ca/or-oil rubb$ 9 be=e ea* exp$ition to r5d] x q supple & able to turn a lot ( wat]4 ,boots %\ld nev] be dri$ by a fire nor put 9 a hot sun = m ?an a v few m9utes4 ,! unl9$ boot is also m por\s1 s t ! foot has less t5d5cy to get hot & damp & subsequ5tly cold4 ,9 a hut1 boots %\ld always be /uff$ z describ$1 & ?is is ev5 m important 9 a plann$ z well z an impromptu biv\ac1 z o!rwise !y freeze h>d 9 a b5t or twi/$ %ape1 & are v awkw>d to get on4 ,a pair ( light clo? slipp]s may be c>ri$1 or a pair ( v light %oes = walk+ on occasion4 ,sid5ote3 ,nail+ ,boots4 ,d n use too _m nails4 ,! s-call$ w+-nails ov]lapp+ ea* o!r all r\nd ! soles are absurd1 & we> p]fectly smoo?4 ,ab\t six w+-nails kept 9 position by flank+ hobnails z describ$ may be us$ = ! toes4 ,wr\ght-iron cube-head$ nails ) long %afts1 obta9able 9 ! alp9e c5tres1 set all r\nd ! edge ( ! soles -in* c5tre to c5tre1 includ+ ! wai/s1 & cl5*$ ?r\gh1 d all "r4 ,ab\t sev5 or eight nails plac$ at suitable int]vals are en\gh = ! tread "p ( ! soles4 ,! front edge ( ! heel %\ld h ab\t six nails set close toge!r1 z x takes a lot ( /ra9 d[nhill2 ! o!rs c be plac$ z on ! sole-edges4 ,"o nail is en\gh = ! c5tre ( ! heel4 ,sev]al pat5t nails h be5 introduc$1 among :i* ! s-call$ ,u4,h4,u4 ,/oll51 :i* are screw$ on1 are v effici5t1 b require "s att5tion to see t ! screws d n "w loose4 ,i h us$ !m = ye>s ) satisfaction4 ,!y are obta9able f ,max ,seib1 ,k>lsruhe4 ,an ev5 bett] nail appe>s to be ! lately inv5t$ ,tric\ni nail obta9able f ,w4 ,/]n1 #dj ,braz5nose ,/reet1 ,man*e/]1 illu/rat$ opposite4 ,! not*$ patt]n 7,model ,d71 price n[ #aas4 p] #ajj1 are be/4 ,!y mu/ be set z close to ! edge ( ! sole z possible1 ) int]vals ( -in* to #a in*1 & cont9u$ "r up to ! heel4 ,!y mu/1 ( c\rse1 n be driv5 9 ! sew+ ( ! boot4 ,along & close up to ! front edge ( ! heel %\ld be set f\r ( ! nails broadside on1 ! two out] ones re9=c$ close beh9d by two nails endwise & ) ?ree o!rs r\nd ! heel at equal int]vals4 ,tric\ni nails c be us$ = ! tread ( ! soles1 or almo/ pref]ably half a doz5 wr\ght-iron hobnails suitably spac$4 ,tric\ni nails are specially h>d5$1 & are said to reta9 _! %>pness till q worn out4 ,! plates1 no d\bt1 protect ! sole some:at4 ,!y c]ta9ly give a firm] /& ?an any ord9>y nail1 besides sav+ consid]able weight4#d ,a few small hobnails may be set 9 ! wai/ ( ! boot4 ,illu/ration ,sid5ote3 ,/ock+s4 ,a %ort sock ( ,norwegian natural wool--?ick & co>se--& p]fectly easy1 especially ov] ! toes1 %\ld be worn4 ,!y are obta9able at ! alp9e c5tres1 & also at ,lockwoods1 #db ,j]myn ,/reet1 ,s4,w41 be+ us$ = ski-boots4 ,ov] ?is %\ld be worn a long wooll5 /ock+ ( /\t1 r\gh wool4 ,! feet mu/ be big en\gh to fit com=tably ov] ! inn] sock )\t contract+ ! toes 9 ! lea/4 ,!y %\ld be long en\gh to come #d to #f in*es above ! knee 9 case ( an impromptu biv\ac or v cold wea!r4 ,cont95tal climb]s we> #8,wad5/utz51' i4e4 /ock+s )\t feet4 ,) ^! only sp>e socks ne$ be c>ri$4 ,buy socks & /ock+s big en\gh1 z !y %r9k4 ,! d\ble sock & /ock+ & inn] sole are meant n only = w>m?1 b also to save ! foot f damage ensu+ f long days on rocks & r\gh pa?s4 ,rememb] y\r :ole j\rney may be spoilt1 & y\r own & y\r companions' "t & money wa/$ by damag$ feet4 ,sid5ote3 ,gait]s4 ,gait]s are n really ne$$ except = long sn[ exp$itions4 ,putties are1 h[ev]1 (t5 worn ev5 = an ord9>y climb2 s9ce !y t5d to /op ! circulation !y mu/ be us$ ) caution 9 v cold wea!r4 ,if = big sn[ m\nta9s1 ! patt]n ) spat keeps ! foot w>m]1 & c be kept tight on ! boot by a bit ( /\t /r+ pass+ "u ! in/ep4 ,?is is easily replac$ :5 worn4 ,if an ord9>y puttie is worn1 x is be/1 9 ord] to prev5t ! end slipp+ loose on ! greasy upp] ( ! boot1 to h a l>ge size ( hook 7#8hook-&-eye' patt]n7 sewn to ! end ( ! puttie4 ,?is c be hook$ into ! lac+ ( ! boot at ! />t ( ! w9d+4 ,a good gait] is ! old-fa%ion$ button$ gait] to come well d[n ne>ly to ! toes1 made fairly loose ( unl9$ lod51 kept 9 position by bits ( /\t /r+ atta*$ to lea!r lugs sewn outside ! l[] edges ( ! gait]s1 on ea* side1 ! /r+ pass+ "u ! wai/1 & br\ght ov] to tie on ! spat1 :i* is ?us kept 9 place & prev5ts any sn[ work+ up4 ,su* gait]s are w>m1 light & effective4 ,sid5ote3 ,clo!s4 ,! coat %\ld be ( /\t twe$4 ,i use a specially made #8,d\ble ,twi/' ,scot* ,*eviot1 treat$ ) alum1 :i* r5d]s x %[]pro(4 ,! coat mu/ button up tight r\nd ! ?roat to exclude driv+ sn[4 ,! sleeves mu/ be made ) gussets l %irt sleeves1 s t "o c lift "o's arms )\t /irr+ ! body ( ! coat4 ,?is is v important :5 climb+ rocks & /ep-cutt+4 ,a belt to ! coat is a nuisance4 ,no l9+ :atev]1 except a bit ( wooll5 l9+ to protect ! outside ( ! arm f %\ld] to elb[--n ev5 padd+ or /iff5+ pieces4 ,f\r outside pockets1 all unl9$1 & all made ) flaps & buttons4 ,two l>ge inside pockets ) flaps & buttons4 ,! pockets %\ld be r l>g] at ! bottom ?an at ! op5+4 ,if safe pockets are desir$1 to protect wat* or glasses on sev]e rock-climb+1 small pockets ) flaps %\ld be plac$ inside & high up1 almo/ "u ea* armpit4 ,! coat %\ld be made d\ble ?ickness ( clo? on ! front1 & %\ld be p]fectly loose ev]y:]e4 ,! buttons %\ld be clos] toge!r ?an usual1 s z to keep out driv+ sn[4 ,! l[] pockets %\ld be set high en\gh1 s t :5 full !y d n cat* 9 ! gro9 :5 m\nt+ /eep slopes4 ,! sleeves mu/ h a second button to button tight r\nd ! wri/ 9 /orm4 ,su* a coat1 if tak5 (f n[ & aga9 & %ak51 w /& q a little ra91 & w 9 any case be light] & dry f> quick] ?an a l9$ coat4 ,p9 half a doz5 /\t safety p9s "u ! coll>4 ,wai/coat %\ld be ( ! same clo? ?r\gh\t1 includ+ ! back--unl9$ ?r\gh\t--made r long] ?an ! ord9>y wai/coat1 especially at back--no back /rap--f\r pockets outside ) flap & button--all unl9$--"o inside pocket ) flap & button = lett]-case4 ,coll> to button close up4 ,knick]bock]s ( ! same clo?1 made v long 9 ! seat s t !y d n cat* at ! knee :5 m\nt+ /eep slopes--wai/b& to be unl9$--two outside hip-pockets ) flap & buttons besides ! ord9>y pockets--to be made wide at ! knees1 b ! wid? to be on ! outside ( ! knee1 z if on ! inside ! crampons are apt to cat*4 ,! rid+-bree*es patt]n is no good1 z ! knees get wet mu* quick] & rema9 wet long]4 ,i myself h my knick]bock]s made wide en\gh to turn "r up ov] ! knees1 be+ kept !re by safety p9s2 "o walks ?us b>e-kne$ ) great ease & com=t4 ,! seat & knees may be made d\ble by means ( pat*es4 ,p9 half a doz5 /\t safety p9s 9 ! wai/b&4 ,sid5ote3 ,hat4 ,! be/ hat is a grey or buff /\t felt 7unl9$7 #8sma%]' hat--m$ium wid? brim & ) a felt ,jg] l9+-b& in/ead ( ! usual lea!r "o4 ,if too ?91 ! brim flaps ab\t 9 ! w9d & ne$s p9n+ back ) a safety p94 ,fit a #8sweat-b&' ( oil$ silk "u ! l9+ b&1 to prev5t ! hat gett+ /a9$ ) sweat4 ,! c[-boy patt]n ) /iff brims does n d1 z x is apt to get knock$ (f by contact ) rocks1 & "o _c sleep 9 x4 ,c>ry "s sort ( light cap4 ,sid5ote3 ,%irt1 etc4 ,! #8,k' or #8,,kk' ,jaeg] %irts answ] well4 ,_! %ort #8,g' pants also answ] well4 ,no und]ve/ %\ld be worn4 ,rememb]1 if y d n want to feel cold1 avoid gett+ hot4 ,! prop] place = ! coat1 except 9 v cold wea!r or on difficult "w1 is ov] ! %\ld]s or 9 ! sack1 ! sleeves be+ tuck$ ?r\gh ! %\ld] /raps4 ,ev5 :5 />t+ v e>ly d n pile on clo!s4 ,sid5ote3 ,extra ,clo!s4 ,c>ry a light wooll5 sweat] & a v light wooll5 muffl]1 ab\t "o foot wide & six feet long at lea/4 ,9 v cold wea!r1 or if sleep+ out1 pass ?is tight twice r\nd ! /oma* & fa/5 ) safety p9s4 ,c>ry two or ?ree l>ge silk h&k]*iefs4 ,! coat1 sweat] & a silk h&k]*ief w protect ! ?roat en\gh4 ,keep y\r /oma* w>m1 z x furni%es ! heat to ! re/4 ,c>ry a light wat]pro( cape4 ,!y are obta9able at ,frits* ,co41 ,zuri*1 made ( ,japanese silk--co/ ab\t #cjs41 weight ab\t a lb4 ,!y save "o ! annoyance ( gett+ wet go+ up to a hut or biv\ac or 9 ! valley1 & are useful 9 ! case ( an impromptu biv\ac1 z !y keep (f ! w9d4 ,!y _c1 ( c\rse1 be well us$ :5 climb+4 ,c>ry a light wooll5 helmet or passe-montagne to come "r ov] ! head & neck1 ) op5+ = eyes1 nose & m\?4 ,c>ry1 )\t fail1 an extra pair ( /ock+s a bit ?9n]1 s9ce weight c\nts1 ?an y\r heavy climb+ /ock+s1 b /rong en\gh to use 9 an em]g5cy or to *ange if b5ight$4 ,& x is also v desirable to c>ry a light sp>e %irt on long-expos$ exp$itions4 ,c>ry two pairs ( gloves made ( co>se1 ?ick wool1 )\t sep>ate f+]s & amply l>ge4 ,!y %\ld also be long en\gh to cov] ! wri/ ( ! sleeve4 ,%ort gloves are useless4 ,p9 ea* pair toge!r ) a safety p94 ,c>ry "o pair at ! bottom ( ! sack1 ! o!r pair 9 ! outside pocket ( ! sack4 ,a pair ( mitt5s is useful4 99 99 99 99 99 ,capta9 ,f>r> all[s me to ins]t "s sugge/ions on an alt]native dress suitable = m5 s5sitive to sudd5 *anges ( temp]ature4 ,sid5ote3 ,"s ,alt]natives 7by ,g4,w4,y474 ,,! ,,coat4--,unl9$ except = ! l9+ on ! outside ( ! arms1 be=e m5tion$1 & a s+le /rip ( loose ,jaeg] fabric1 /it*$ only at ! upp] edge & ends1 across ! %\ld]s4 ,i pref] also a light] mat]ial1 v close wov51 = bo? coat & bree*es4 ,heavy friezes1 z (t5 worn1 absorb wet & admit w9d z ! fabric slack5s ) we>4 ,sid5ote3 ,= ! ,alps4 ,s-call$ #8tropical' & #8wat]pro(' mat]ials dissolve l pap] on r\gh rock "w4 ,! coll> turns d[n well away f ! neck1 &1 :5 ne$$1 buttons 9 front ) a flap :i* is sewn on to ! coat1 "u ! coll>1 along its l[] edge1 s t :5 button$ up to ! two sides ( ! coll> ! flap leaves no hole :]e sn[ or w9d c ent]4 ,,! ,,bree*es4--,tr\s]s1 su* z us$ to be worn1 _h ! advantage ( leav+ ! knee free2 b !y are uncom=table ) putties & clumsy at ! ankle4 ,be/ ( all leg-ge>1 9 "s respects1 are ! #8%orts1' z worn by ! ,tyrolese2 b ^! leave ! knee unprotect$ = rocks or aga9/ bad wea!r4 ,i pref] a compromise3 ! bree*es made loose to ! knee1 z above describ$1 b ! leg ( ! bree* bel[ ! knee c>ri$ on & d[n1 9 ! same mat]ial & %ap$ to ! calf1 l[ en\gh to be easily cov]$ at ! end by a sock4 ,to all[ passage to ! foot1 ! ext5sion op5s d[n ! inside ( ! calf1 & is secur$ !re by a r[ ( f\r small press spr+s4 ,buttons or buckles at ! knees are always break+ on rocks1 & c be pa9ful4 ,lac+ is bett]1 b apt to be too tight4 ,"o set ( ^! small press spr+s1 9 spite ( w>n+s1 has la/$ me = five ye>s1 )\t a s+le "o com+ op5 or los+ its /r5g?4 ,!y are1 ( c\rse1 well protect$1 z plac$ on ! inside aga9/ ! #8give' ( ! calf4 ,! advantage ( su* long bree*es is t !y d n1 l ! usual type1 con/rict ! knee or calf1 & !y d n1 l tr\s]s1 drag ov] x1 s9ce ! weight ( ! leg is p>tly c>ri$ by %ap+ & by ! support ( ! sock4 ,!y are worn ) socks & n /ock+s4 ,?is bo? economizes c>ry+ & avoids ! clumsy #8gump' :]e a puttie is twi/$ at its upp] end ov] ! /ock+ top4 ,) two pairs ( socks worn1 "o hold+ ! end ( ! bree* leg & "o turn$ d[n ov] ! boot1 ! climb] ne$ only put on ! puttie = deep sn[1 or to protect ! %9 on %>p rocks4 ,9 contact ) r\gh surfaces ! clo? leg is1 ( c\rse1 m durable ?an any wooll5 /ock+4 ,!y %\ld be made ample betwe5 ! legs1 & ! seam /it*$ /rongly & f> up ! front1 clos+ ) a flap or fob1 z 9 rid+-bree*es4 ,= sn[1 w9d & we> ?is is a bett] protection ?an ! usual s+le r[ ( buttons4 ,two buckle-/raps above ! seat beh9d1 ! l[] set r f> d[n & kept ! tight]1 enable "o1 if ! bree*es are well cut1 to d )\t braces or belt4 ,at ! same "t1 !y avoid con/rict+ ! wai/ or l[] "p ( ! lungs1 z ! l9e ( t5sion1 or close-fit1 hangs ?us r\nd ! outside ( ! hip-bone1 & ! wai/b& c be left q loose4 ,,und]we>4--,i pref]1 z an alt]native to a %irt1 two or ?ree v light silky-wooll5 #8,%etl&s1' op5+ d[n ! front & sitt+ close to ! body all ! way4 ,"o at lea/ %\ld come "r d[n to ! ?ighs4 ,! l[e/1 a zephyr or almo/ silk-web1 ) %ort sleeves2 ! second1 an ord9>y w>m light ,%etl&1 ) long] sleeves ov] ! elb[2 ! ?ird1 ?ick]1 ( loos] fabric1 ) no sleeves4 ,^! c be ?r[n op51 put on or tak5 (f1 "o or m1 9 a few seconds1 z ! temp]ature v>ies4 ,!y dry at once1 9 w9d or sun1 or f ! heat ( ! body1 & are at once w>m]1 dri] & less oppressive we> ?an a full absorb5t %irt4 ,i we> no wai/coat4 ,a silk sc>f is pleasant to ! feel1 & protective aga9/ sun or cold4 ,i f9d ! be/ & *eape/ to be a y>d & a half ( silk motor veil+4 ,?is dries at once1 & c be us$ = any purpose1 f a sl+ to a turban or dress+-g[n4 ,sid5ote3 ,= ,rock ,climb+ 9 ,brita94 ,corduroy or close-wov5 frieze provides ! be/ we>4 ,coat & bree*es %\ld be unl9$4 ,! knees c be /r5g!n$ by a d\ble ?ickness or by bucksk94 ,9 ! latt] case ord9>y #8/rapp+' w d1 set ov] & n inside ! knee4 ,x is well to h removable oilsk9 bags = "s ( ! pockets1 to keep food1 etc41 dry 9 ra91 or1 at ne$1 to sit ^u4 ,a sweat] worn1 z is (t5 done1 )\t a coat is a mi/ake4 ,x cat*es on rocks1 absorbs mi/ & ra91 admits w9d1 & has no pockets4 ,exp]i5ce tea*es t ! wet or w9dy cold ( ,briti% hills c be f> m try+ ?an ! dry cold ( alp9e days4 ,boots may be light] & m lightly nail$ ?an = ! ,alps4 ,= ?is see 8,rock ,climb+10 p4 #aed4 ,z !y are liable to get ov]-wet on ,briti% hills1 & ov]-dri$ & w>p$ 9 ,briti% kit*5s1 x is well to h a pair ( v light alum9ium toe-trees1 adju/$ to ! size ( ! boot1 :i* c be ins]t$ ! mom5t ! boots are tak5 (f 9 ! ev5+4 ,^! s]ve to keep ! %ape4 ,rubb] or rope sol$ boots or %oes are n[ consid]$ almo/ indisp5sable3 made ( light canvas1 to g 9 a pocket4 ,putties are sup]flu\s2 a light lea!r anklet1 or a c\ple ( feet cut (f an old puttie & twi/$ r\nd ! boot-top1 suffici5tly prev5ts ! entrance ( small scree4 ,= we> 9 sn[1 & ?is applies also to ! w9t] sn[ ( ! ,alps1 x is a good device to h a n>r[ b& ( /rong1 s(t mat]ial sewn on r\nd ! top ( ! boot1 :i* laces up1 close r\nd ! ankle1 9 a l9e ) ! bootlac+4 ,?is is adequate protection = all b prolong$ sn[ we>4 ,a good ,briti% head-we> is a /rong tam-o'-%ant]4 ,x is bett] w9d & ra9 protection1 & cool]1 ?an a cap1 & leaves ! =ehead fre] ?an a felt hat4 ,be/ ( all is no head-ge> at all4 ,= ^? ^: h&s suff] f cold on wet rocks1 or :o1 l myself1 h once _h _! f+]s fro/-t\*$1 "s sort ( gloves are necess>y4 ,9 rock climb+1 gloves1 & /ill m f+]less #8gubs1' de/roy ! t\* & grip4 ,i f9d ! be/ compromise to be /rong wooll5 f+]-mitt5s1 ) f+]s ext5d+ z f> z ! fir/ jo9t4 ,"s climb]s pr(ess to get com=t f w>m+ _! f+]s 7& ?aw+ out _! rock holds7 ) ! small pocket ,japanese #8,in/ra4' ,x is well to h ev]y?+ m>k$1 or ( di/9ctive col\r+4 ,9 ,brita91 ! orgies ( ! #8dry+-room' are a daily trial to temp] & "t4 ,x is well also to rememb] t1 9 all m\nta9e]+1 we are to =m ! =egr\nd ( our companions' holiday views ( great sc5]y1 & t x is our duty n to inflict a l>g] proportion ( ! incongru\s or ugly ^u _! daily outlook ?an is requir$ by ! fir/ condition ( our own com=t & protection4 99 99 99 99 99 ,wom5 h le>nt by exp]i5ce t conv5tion mu/ give way to common s5se 9 ! matt] ( co/ume4 ,sid5ote3 ,co/ume = ,wom5 7by ,miss ,bronw5 ,jones74 ,= alp9e "w1 clo?+ %\ld be entirely wooll52 ! suit1 compris+ coat1 bree*es & skirt1 ( light weight & col\r1 &--?is is ess5tial--w9d-pro(4 ,= ,briti% climb+1 gab]d9e or cord c be sub/itut$ = wool1 z1 "h1 protection aga9/ ra9 is ( m importance ?an protection aga9/ w9d4 ,! coat %\ld be %ap$ l a man's jacket1 furni%$ ) an adju/able coll>1 /orm sleeves1 & an ample supply ( pockets1 clos$ by flaps4 ,x %\ld be ( su* a l5g? z to rea* )9 eight in*es ( ! knee4 ,! skirt is /ill (t5 look$ ^u z a necessity 9 ! ,alps1 b x is disc>d$ e>ly 9 an asc5t4 ,x %\ld !re=e be ( a s(t & light mat]ial1 s z to be easily c>ri$ 9 a rucksack4 ,x %\ld /op at lea/ t5 in*es f ! gr\nd1 & be n m ?an two y>ds wide4 ,! bree*es %\ld be z close-fitt+ z ^? ( a man1 z ov]-fullness is apt to be a h9drance on rocks4 ,!y %\ld also be lac$ r ?an button$ at ! knee1 buttons be+ a s\rce ( discom=t :5 kneel+4 ,a sweat] is g5]ally pref]r$ to a bl\se = we> "u ! coat1 z x is loose-fitt+1 w>m] & does n imp$e ! movem5ts ( ! arms4 ,! mo/ suitable hat is made ( ei!r grey or :ite s(t felt1 wide en\gh to provide a %ade f ! sun4 ,a /iff brim %\ld be avoid$ on acc\nt ( ! discom=t caus$ by its com+ into contact ) ! rope4 ,hatp9s %\ld obvi\sly be replac$ by an ela/ic4 ,x is n advisable to we> gloves = rock climb+1 z !y less5 ! s5se ( t\*4 ,wooll5 gloves1 ) no divisions = ! f+]s1 are recomm5d$ = we> on sn[ or :5 /ation>y4 ,a silk sc>f1 ti$ tightly ov] ! hat1 has be5 f\nd a great boon dur+ high w9ds 9 ! ,alps4 ,boots1 /ock+s1 etc41 are ! same z ^? advis$ = m54 ,9 ord] to avoid great subsequ5t discom=t1 ! face & neck %\ld be c>efully protect$ aga9/ sunburn4 ,= ?is purpose an ev5 lay] ( "s good col\r salve is mo/ effective4 ,fail+ ?is1 a lay] ( lanol9e cov]$ ) toilet p[d] has prov$ a fairly good sub/itute4 ,a small pocket-mirror %\ld be c>ri$ = use :5 apply+ ! mixture1 s t "o c see t no place is left uncov]$4 ,%\ld ! face become sunburnt x %\ld be ba!d 9 v hot wat] & !n cov]$ ) grease4 ,,outfit ,,by ,j4,p4 ,,f>r> ,ev5 ! beg9n] _h bett] accu/om himself to c>ry a sack1 :i* may conta9 8 gloves1 sweat]1 etc4 ,sid5ote3 ,rucksack4 ,a good size is #ba in*es wide & #ba in*es deep1 ! bottom & side walls #d in*es wide1 z ?is gives a flatt] sack4 ,two outside pockets ) flap & button--! c>ry+ /raps ( wooll5 webb+ #a in* wide--! :ole made ( wat]pro( sailclo? ) a flap4 ,a good patt]n is suppli$ by ,alp9e outfitt]s su* z ,frits* ,co4 ( ,zuri*1 :o issue elaborate catalogues ( alp9e equipm5t4 ,! ,cont95tal deal]s supply a v light frame :i* goes betwe5 ! back & ! sack1 ?us prev5t+ ! back gett+ hot4 ,! be/ ,i "k is ! 8,t\ri/5freund ,rucksack/tze10 ,no4 #bj1 #c m>ks1 suppli$ by ,frits*4 ,! ,norwegians make a novel k9d ( sack1 ! weight ( :i* is c>ri$ p>tly by ! hips4 ,sid5ote3 ,ice-axe4 ,! be/ ice-axes ,i "k are made by ,s*5k 9 ,gr9delwald 7difficult to get deliv]y74 ,! same patt]n is also made by ,fritz ,jrg1 ,zweilts*951 ne> ,int]lak51 f :om ,i h _h sev]al good axes4 ,x is necess>y1 h[ev]1 to specify ! patt]n1 z he makes sev]al4 ,sizes are z foll[s3 ,l5g? ( adze-side ( head f c5tre ( h&le #e0 7#ab cms47 ,l5g? ( pick-side ( head f c5tre ( h&le #g0 7#ah cms47 ,wid? ( blade ( adze #b0 7#f cms47 ,dep? ( socket ( head 7to give weight7 #b0 7#e cms47 ,l5g? ( side irons ( head f l[] edge ( socket #g0 to #h0 7ab\t #bj cms47 ,side ,irons %\ld be fa/5$ to ! /ock by #c copp] rivets1 n screws4#e ,l5g? ( f]rule ( axe h&le #b0 7#f cms47 ,l5g? ( po9t ( axe h&le #b0 7#e cms47 ,! po9t mu/ n be %>p1 & if long] ?an /at$1 may te> "o's clo!s :5 cutt+4 ,! po9t & f]rule made 9 "o piece are v objectionable1 z !y all[ ! po9t no play if caught4 ,l5g? ( /ock or h&le1 includ+ po9t #ci0 7#a m47 ,?is is a good av]age l5g? = g5]al purposes4 ,long] axes (f] no advantages1 & are awkw>d4 ,i use a #cf-;in* axe1 :i* is v h&y1 b x is %ort = cutt+ d[nhill4 ,diamet] ( h&le imm$iately "u socket ( axehead #a0 by #a01 say #cj by #ce mm4 ,diamet] ( h&le imm$iately above f]rule #a-a_/af0 by #a-e_/af01 say #bg by #cc mm4 ,^! sizes give /r5g? en\gh4 ,if exce$$1 !y fill ! grasp ( an ord9>y h& s t1 z is (t5 ne$$1 no?+ else c be gripp$4 ,if ! l[] end is ?9n] x w cramp ! h& :5 cutt+4 ,! axe %\ld balance at ab\t #i in*es f ! top4 ,an axe z describ$ weighs #c lb41 & w be equal to any "w usually met ) on a m\nta9 exp$ition4 ,if ! balance & ! curves ( ! head come out well1 x w cut ice clean & )\t any recoil+ j> to ! arms4 ,not*es on ! und]side ( ! head ( ! axe1 (t5 se5 9 %op axes1 are v objectionable4 ,illu/ration ,mr4 ,eck5/e9 has design$ an ice axe diff]+ radically f ! normal type1 to be us$ 9 conjunction ) 8 crampons4 ,x is #cd in*es long ov] all1 & has a mu* small] head4 ,! few :o h us$ x 9 conjunction ) ! special crampons claim = ! comb9ation advantages 9 difficult ice4 ,! subject has be5 treat$ by ,dr4 ,j4 ,jacot ,guill>mod 9 an elaborate pap] ) scale draw+s & _m sket*es 9 ! ,jahrbu* des ,s4 ,a4 ,c41 vol4 xlv4 pp4 #cdd-ec1 & und\bt$ly des]ves ! close/ att5tion4#f ,?is axe1 & crampons1 are made by ,a4 ,hupfauf1 ,e9si$eln1 ,switz]l&4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #a4--,,?umb ,,knot4 ,,correct ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #b4--;,,incorrect ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #c4--;,,figure ,,( #h ,,knot4 ,,correct ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #d4--;,,figure ,,( #h ,,tie4 ,,correct ,sid5ote3 ,axe ,sl+4 ,:5 climb+ rocks ! axe has (t5 to be slung on ! arm4 ,a good sl+ = rocks only is made ( lamp wick jo9$ to =m a circle ( #be in*es4 ,?is is c>ri$ 9 ! pocket1 & is easily put on & (f4 ,! fix$ hemp sl+1 s (t5 se51 gets wet & cut if any /eps h to be cut4 ,! be/ comb9$ sl+1 inv5t$ by ,mr4 ,v4 ,fynn1 & suppli$ by ,frits* ,co41 ,zuri*1 consi/s ( a lea!r loop atta*$ to a brass r+ runn+ on ! axe h&le betwe5 ! head & a /op4 ,?is sl+ s]ves = rock "w l an ord9>y sl+1 &1 9 addition1 is loop$ r\nd ! wri/ :5 /ep-cutt+1 ?us prev5t+ ! loss ( ! axe1 :i* to a p>ty ( climb]s engag$ 9 difficult "w might be a s\rce ( dang]4 ,i always use x4 ,sid5ote3 ,rope4 ,! greate/ att5tion mu/ be paid to ropes1 z fatalities due to ! breakage ( ^! h be5 v num]\s4 ,i 01 9 consequ5ce1 induc$ to in/itute "s v c>eful inquiries into ! "q ( ! mo/ suitable ropes = alp9e "w1 & "s v exhau/ive te/s 7 !reupon made ( v>i\s ropes by ,mr4 ,o4 ,eck5/e91 :i* h be5 confirm$ by subsequ5t te/s made by ,swiss climb]s4 ,! result 0 ! evolution ( a flax rope1 :i*1 9 po9t ( ultimate t5sile /r5g? & ext5sion 7i4e4 ela/icity71 surpasses consid]ably any o!r rope1 weight = weight4 ,! foll[+ table gives ! asc]ta9$ results ( ! two be/ ropes te/$3 ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- ,ultimate ,"w requir$ t5sile to break te/ /r5g?1 ,ext5- l5g? ( #e 9 sion1 feet1 9 ,circum- ,weight p\nds4 measur$ foot-p\nds4 ,make4 f]5ce1p] #ajj -------------- on te/-------------- 9 feet1 9 ,relative1 l5g? ,relative1 in*es4p\nds4 ,abso-= rope ( #e ,abso-= rope lute4 ( feet1 lute4 ( /&>d p] /&>d weight4 c5t4 weight4 ---------------------------------------- --------------------- ,no4 #a4-- ,engli%1 ,flax #ad #dcge #aijd #bagf #afc #dea #eae ,no4 #b4-- ,engli%1 ,manila #ad #dfe #agib #aibg #abc #ccae #cef ,no4 #c4-- ,no4 #a1 worn #ad #dfi #adef #aeeb #acb #bhh #cjg ---------------------------------------- --------------------- ,! ,no4 #a rope is manufactur$ by ,fro/ ,bro!rs ,ltd41 #cdb ,comm]cial ,road1 ,london1 ,e41 & is kn[n z ,fro/'s left-h& alp9e rope1 #a in*4 ,x is beautifully flexible to h&le & knot1 & aft] ! fir/ wett+ %[s no t5d5cy to k9k4 ,i d n "k mu* ( its we>+ capacities--9 ?is respect x is probably excell$ by ! h>d] ,manila ropes4 ,= ! haulage ( duff]s :]e ! rope is con/antly dragg$ aga9/ rocks1 no d\bt a mu* heavi] rope ( ,manila or possibly wire w\ld be pref]able4 ,! ,fro/ rope n[ describ$ is design$ = ! use ( tra9$ m\nta9e]s4 ,all t ,i dem& & all t ought to be dem&$ ( an alp9e rope is t x %all n %[ undue we> dur+ a s+le season4 ,i nev] use = a second season a rope on :i* life may dep5d :5 a new "o c be obta9$ = a few %ill+s4 ,ev5 :5 a rope %[s no appreciable we>1 x may h be5 subject$ to "s sudd5 sev]e /ra9 :i* has robb$ x ( a portion ( its virtue4 ,i g s f> z to say t us$ ropes ought n to be giv5 away to guides :o w g on us+ !m = an indef9ite "t4 ,! ,no4 #c rope 9 ! table 0 a ,fro/ rope us$ by ! late ,mr4 ,h4 ,o4 ,jones = "o season4 ,! decl9e 9 its resi/+ p[] is m>k$1 al?\gh x is /ill a fairly /rong rope4 ,sid5ote3 ,knots4 ,) respect to knots = use 9 alp9e ropes1 ,mr4 ,eck5/e9 0 aga9 good en\gh to inve/igate ! "q1 & ! accompany+ illu/rations h be5 prep>$ f photographs tak5 "u 8 in/ructions4 ,!y are all applicable to a left-h& rope4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #e4--,,s+le ,,fi%]man',s ,,b5d4 ,,correct ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #f--;,,incorrect ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #g4--;,,incorrect ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #h4--;,,b[l9e ,,& ,,ov]h& ,,knot4 ,,correct ,! foll[+ is an extract f 8 cov]+ lett] to me3 8,a laid rope usually consi/s ( ?ree /r&s twi/$ toge!r4 ,ea* /r& ?us =ms a helix4 ,! /r&s are #8laid' toge!r to =m ! rope1 & ! way 9 :i* !y are laid toge!r is call$ ! #8lay4' ,n[ if we beg9 to tie a knot1 we simil>ly #8lay' toge!r1 two ropes1 & ea* rope !n =ms a portion ( a helix4 ,! g5]al rule is ?is3 if ! /r&s ( ! rope us$ =m "r-h& helices 7z is ! case ) ! old ,alp9e ,club rope71 !n 9 t "p ( ! knot :i* is subject$ to ! greate/ /ra9 7,i use ! ^w #8/ra9' 9 its popul> s5se7 ! two ropes mu/ ea* =m a left-h& helix4 ,conv]sely1 if we use a rope ! /r&s ( :i* =m left-h& helices 7z is ! case ) ! new ,fro/ rope71 !n 9 t "p ( ! knot :i* is subject$ to ! greate/ /ra9 ! two ropes mu/ ea* =m a "r-h& helix4 ,see also my pap]1 8,knots ) ! ,lay10 9 ! ,climb]s' ,club ,j\rnal1 vol4 xi41 ,no4 #dd1 p4 #add1 ,june #aiji4 8,! annex$ figures include ?ree classes ( knots3 simple or elem5t>y knots2 knots = unit+ two ropes2 loop knots4 ,all are %[n ti$ ) left-h& rope4 ,! correct way ( ty+ ! knots is %[n 9 ea* case1 z well z "s incorrect ways4 ,ea* knot is %[n op51 be=e x is drawn taut4 8,! s+le fi%]man's b5d1 %[n 9 ,fig4 #g1 is excell5t = unit+ two ropes ( simil> size = tempor>y purposes1 z x c readily be undone4 ,h5ce x has a t5d5cy to "w loose 9 c\rse ( "t1 & if x is necess>y to unite two ropes ( simil> size = long] p]iods1 x is bett] to use ! figure ( #h tie1 also kn[n z ! ,flemi% tie1 %[n 9 ,fig4 #d4 ,?is1 ?\gh some:at complicat$1 is /rong & reliable & has no t5d5cy to "w loose4 8,z reg>ds mak+ a loop 9 ! middle ( a rope1 no entirely satisfactory knot has yet be5 devis$4 ,! #8middleman noose1' %[n 9 ! #ahib ,alp9e ,club ,report ( ! ,special ,committee on ,equipm5t = ,m\nta9e]s 7p4 #d71 has ! fatal disadvantage t "u c]ta9 conditions1 :5 a pull is appli$ 9 a c]ta9 direction1 x acts z a true noose--t is1 z a slip or runn+ knot4 ,! be/ middle loop at pres5t kn[n is ! op5-h&$ loop1 :i* is free f ?is disadvantage1 & :i* is %[n 9 ,fig4 #ad4 8,= an end loop1 ! b[l9e1 %[n 9 ,fig4 #aa1 is excell5t4 ,! loose end %\ld be secur$ by a half-hit* 7see #ahib ,report1 p4 #d71 or by an ov]h& knot2 ! latt]1 %[n 9 ,fig4 #ab1 is pref]able4 8,f9ally1 a b[l9e on a bight1 ! mo/ important #8fir/ aid' knot = transport+ an injur$ p]son1 is %[n 9 ,fig4 #af40 ,messrs4 ,kirkaldy made 9 my pres5ce "s int]e/+ te/s ( knots1 ) ! foll[+ results3 ,middleman ,knot4 ,/r5g? relative to rope4 ,manila rope #dd p] c5t4 ,flax rope #ej p] c5t4 ,s+le b[l9e ,knot4 ,/r5g? relative to rope4 ,manila rope #ee p] c5t4 ,flax rope #ei p] c5t4 ,?is aga9 %[s t a knot r$uces ! effici5cy ( a flax rope less ?an t ( ! ,manila rope4 ,new ropes %\ld n be wett$ or /ret*$ be=e use1 b ! k9ks %\ld be c>efully work$ out by h&4 ,& a wet rope mu/ be dri$ 9 ! %ade4 ,! be/ l5g? ( rope = a p>ty ( ?ree is #ajj to #abj feet4 ,x is a good plan on long1 sn[-cov]$ glaci] exp$itions to c>ry a sp>e #ej-;foot rope1 & on "s difficult rock climbs a long sp>e rope is necess>y4 ,?is c be ( a light] k9d1 ab\t #a in* circumf]5ce4 ,beale1 #aid ,%aftesbury ,av5ue1 ,london1 supplies a ,manila alp9e l9e v suitable = su* a purpose4 ,sid5ote3 ,pitons4 ,pitons are occasionally necess>y = difficult rock climbs4#g ,!y are spikes ( ,sw$i% iron -in* 9 diamet] & ab\t #f to #i in*es long1 turn$ ov] to =m a loop at "o end1 ?r\gh :i* ! rope c be pass$1 & drawn at ! o!r to a w$ge-%ap$ edge s z to all[ ( driv+ into a crevice ( rock4 ,sid5ote3 ,klett]s*uhe4 ,klett]s*uhe are mu* us$ 9 ! ,dolomites1 & x has lately be5 %[n t !y c be us$ ) advantage n only on dry rocks b also 9 great climbs l ! ,ecr9s & ! ,ailefroide4 ,a good k9d is ! s-call$ ,sext5 patt]n1 ! soles ( :i* are built up ( lay]s ( clo?4 ,sid5ote3 ,crampons4 ,crampons add security1 & are v useful 9 sav+ /ep-cutt+ on great ice climbs2 b o!rwise1 especially on j\rneys1 are sc>cely wor? c>ry+4 ,mr4 ,eck5/e9 has design$ a v effective k9d1 ! only drawback be+ _! weight 7ab\t #c lb4 ! pair74 ,a useful crampon is ! s-call$ ,allgu] model1 #h-spik$1 weight ab\t #a lb4 p] pair4 ,a4 ,hupfauf ( ,e9si$eln1 ,switz]l&1 is a reliable mak] 7also ( ice-axes if patt]n is s5t74 ,! crampons %\ld h a hemp /rap ) bran*es sewn on to ! two pairs ( back r+s & buckl+ ov] ! in/ep1 & a sep>ate toe-/rap sewn on to ! front pair ( r+s & buckl+ ov] ! =e-foot4 ,?is /rap mu/ n be buckl$ tight1 z hemp %r9ks :5 damp1 & pressure might cause fro/-bite4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #i4--;,,b[l9e4 ,,correct ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aj4--;,,incorrect ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aa4--;,,incorrect ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ab4--;,,incorrect ,?is =m ( fa/5+ 7z on ! old wood5 skate7 cramps ! foot less1 & is mu* m quickly adju/$ ?an a s+le long cross-ov] /rap4 ,! crampon requires c>eful fitt+ to ! sole ( ! boot 7a /iff c>dbo>d template ( ea* sole %\ld be s5t to ! mak] ( ! crampon71 & :5 nail+ ! boots1 gaps %\ld be left = ! limbs ( ! crampons4 ,9 us+ crampons c>e mu/ be tak5 to keep ! feet ap>t & n lift !m m ?an necess>y1 z s]i\s accid5ts h occurr$ ?r\gh ! spikes cat*+ 9 ! /ock+s or ev5 knick]bock]s4 ,crampons are n = use on rocks1 except possibly :5 ic$1 b !y are p>ticul>ly necess>y on /eep grass m\nta9s1 l ! ,hfats4 ,sid5ote3 ,spectacles & ,grease4 ,bo? spectacles & grease are v necess>y on glaci] exp$itions4 ,! spectacles c ei!r be smok$ glasses or1 bett] /ill1 ! new gre5-yell[ glasses4 ,i pref] #a in* convexo-concave glasses 9 /rong /eel or horn frames )\t any wire nett+4 ,! be/ grease = ! face :i* ,i "k is ! ,pomade ,s*ehaye2 b !re are o!r simil> prep>ations :i* rightly dep5d ^u col\r = _! effectiv5ess4 ,lanol9e is too ?94 ,black5+ ! face & all r\nd ! eyes ) burnt cork is also an effici5t rem$y aga9/ sunburn1 & suffices 9 ! case ( loss or breakage ( spectacles4 ,or a mask ( pap]1 ) eye-slits1 c be made4 ,sid5ote3 ,field-glass4 ,a ,zeiss #h-p[] monocul> prismatic glass weighs ab\t a lb41 & c be c>ri$ 9 ! pocket )\t any case = in/ant use4 ,! b9ocul> glasses are too cumb]some4 ,?is glass c also be us$ = sweep+ t]ra9 = *amois1 b = detail$ "w a #cj-p[] alum9ium telescope is bett]4 ,less effective1 b light] to c>ry1 & suffici5t = mo/ alp9e prospect+1 is ! pocket telescope1 made by ,messrs4 ,ross1 = sport+ purposes4 ,x is ab\t #d in*es 9 l5g?1 & weighs only a few ounces4 ,sid5ote3 ,an]oid & ,compass4 ,good m\nta9 an]oids1 graduat$ to #ejjj metres1 are made by ,casella1 ,london1 & by ,u/]i-,re9a*]1 ,zuri*4 ,ev5 on an ord9>y exp$ition !y are int]e/+1 & c be useful to elucidate "o's position 9 ?ick wea!r4 ,a compass mu/ always be c>ri$4 ,hughes1 #ei ,f5*ur* ,/reet1 ,e4,c41 make an excell5t liquid-fill] compass :i* r5d]s ! ne$le v /eady4 ,sid5ote3 ,maps4 ,! be/ map ( ! di/rict mu/ always be c>ri$ ) ! p>ty4 ,sid5ote3 ,wat]-bottle & ,dr9k+-cup4 ,i h = _m ye>s us$ bottles made ( ,p>a rubb] ) wide 7#a-;in*7 m\? & screw /opp]4 ,cont5ts #a litre1 weight #f ounces1 price #f m>ks 7,h4 ,s*waig]1 ,muni*74 ,if cur$ = a few days ) weak :ite w9e & wat] or c(fee !y d n imp>t any ta/e to cont5ts1 ev5 if left 9 = a c\ple ( days4 ,:5 empty1 !y take next to no room4 ,! full bottle mu/1 ( c\rse1 be p]*$ on top ( ! o!r ?+s 9 ! sack4 ,guides pref] a t9 or alum9ium receptacle to hold two or ?ree litres1 & ! goatsk9 bottles usual 9 ,dauph9 are also v practical4 ,z a dr9k+-cup ,i "k no?+ bett] ?an ! -litre oval alum9ium mug ( ! ,f$]al troops4 ,c>ry an alum9ium dess]tspoon4 ,sid5ote3 ,lant]n4 ,sev]al patt]ns ( fold+ lant]n are made4 ,s*waig] supplies "o 9 alum9ium 7,alp5v]e9s71 weight #f ounces1 price #f m>ks4 ,sid5ote3 ,cook+ ,app>atus4 ,i h nev] c>ri$ cook+ app>atus1 z cook+ on an exp$ition takes f> too long & is a ne$less luxury4 ,a good "o is ! ,ideal-,ko*] 9 alum9ium suppli$ by ,s*waig] & o!rs1 size #a litre1 #f m>ks2 #b litres1 #h m>ks4 ,!y are useful = guideless climb]s 9 cr[d$ huts4 ,x is n at all a bad plan to c>ry an alum9ium saucepan ) lid 7ab\t #a qu>t71 :i* w (t5 enable "o to cook 9 a cr[d$ hut )\t wait+ "o's turn4 ,= a biv\ac1 a c\ple ( alum9ium saucepans fitt+ into ea* o!r save c>ry+ heavy cook+ pots4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ac4--,,op5-,,h&$ ,,ikop4 ,,correct ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ad4--;,,incorrect ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ae4--;,,b[l9e ,,on ,a ,,bight4 ,,correct ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #af4--;,,incorrect ,sid5ote3 ,outfit = ,biv\ac4 ,! be/ sleep+ sack ,i "k is made ( ?9 ,willesd5 canvas l9$ ) opossum4 ,! sack %\ld be made to button all r\nd--n sewn4 ,a suitable size is #f feet #f in*es long & #b feet #f in*es wide :5 done up4 ,opossum fur is1 h[ev]1 n[ exp5sive1 & a v effici5t l9+ is eid]d[n made up 9 ?9 m]9o cov]+4 ,w4 ,ratcliff1 saddl]1 ,olney1 ,bucks1 c supply a good sack1 made ) /raps to roll up1 co/ #c to #d1 accord+ to ! weight ( d[n us$ 7price pre-w>74 ,a light silk sack is made by ,heal ,sons1 ,tott5ham ,c\rt ,road1 co/ #b1 #ajs41 b requires a wat]pro( %eet4 ,= putt+ "u ! hip1 a squ>e rubb] air-cu%ion ab\t #b feet squ>e is v desirable4 ,a t5t is r>ely necess>y = a biv\ac = "o night1 z if ! wea!r 7 bad en\gh to ne$ a t5t1 ! conditions next day w\ld n p]mit a big climb4 ,! ,mumm]y silk t5ts are well spok5 (4 ,a light t5t ( ! ,mumm]y patt]n1 te/$ & improv$ ^u by ,dr4 ,long/aff 9 ! ,himalayas1 & ) fur!r improvem5ts by ,mr4 ,"y1 is made by ,messrs4 ,piggott1 ,bi%opsgate ,/reet ,)\t4 ,! ,cottage t5t ( ! ,amateur ,camp+ ,club1 ,london 7address1 #d ,new ,union ,/reet1 ,e4,c42 sub41 #es4 p] annum71 is v light1 roomy & /rong4 ,_! catalogue is well wor? /udy4 ,= ext5d$ exp$itions ,i h us$ a t5t made ( ,egyptian flax1 s-call$ silk4 ,a good size is #i by #f by #f feet to ridge1 or bett]1 #ab by #h by #f feet to ridge1 unless ! c\ntry is too m\nta9\s4 ,x only ne$s two poles1 :i* c 9 "s c\ntries be improvis$ on ! spot2 or ! ridge cord c be ti$ to trees or o!r ob/acles1 & poles disp5s$ )4 ,^! t5ts are q wat]pro( & /& wea!r well1 :il/ !y are v light4#h ,"o's endurance & ent]prise are n improv$ by sleep+ on ! gr\nd1 ev5 on spruce1 night aft] night4 ,! ,x ,compactum b$ is a good portable b$1 folds up to #c feet by #e in*es by #e in*es1 weight #bj lb41 co/ #bds4 #f;d4 ,?is1 ) a sleep+ sack1 a c\ple ( ,hudson ,bay ,no4 #d r$ blankets1 a wat]pro( %eet #g feet by #e feet & a hair pill[1 make a good sleep+ outfit = a ma9 camp4 ,sid5ote3 ,m$ic9e4 ,= alp9e purposes ,i f9d *lorodyne1 ,cockle's pills1 a c\ple ( b&ages & a roll ( -in* ,am]ican pla/] v useful to c>ry 9 ! sack4#i ,small & v light pocket-cases1 suitable = m\nta9e]+ purposes 7"o ( m$ical & ! o!r ( surgical rem$ies71 are n[ suppli$ by ,messrs4 ,burr\ghs ,wellcome4 ,^! notes cov] ! special requirem5ts ( ! m\nta9e] 9 ! ,alps1 & ,i h n ?\ght x necess>y to enum]ate ! _m small ?+s :i* he ne$s anyh[1 & ( :i* he is ! be/ judge4 ,note4--,all prices are pre-w> except :]e /at$4 ,,footnotes3 #d ,cf4 an article by ,o4 ,eck5/e9 9 ! ,climb]s' ,club ,j\rnal1 #aiad4 #e ,see article 9 ! ,climb]s' ,club ,j\rnal1 #aiab1 p4 #adg4 #f ,see also pp4 #bjf1 #bib4 #g ,see 8,pegs & ,aids10 p4 #bjj4 #h ,see also 8,! ,himalaya0 & 8,m\nta9e]+ 9 ! ,tropics40 #i ,= fur!r m$ical outfit1 see 8,m\nta9e]+ 9 ! ,tropics40 ,,*apt] ,,iii ,,guid$ ,,& ,,guideless ,,m\nta9e]+ ,! "q ( climb+ ) or )\t guides is "o ( traditional importance4 ,b ! long controv]sy has proce$$ )\t tak+ into acc\nt ! *ange 9 mod]n conditions2 & ! t]ms #8guid$' & #8guideless' are /ill us$ ) a signification t n[ be>s little relation to actual circum/ance4 ,consequ5tly ! discussion = m\nta9e]s has become pr(itless1 = x is bas$ ^u def9ite misconceptions4 ,sid5ote3 ,old-"t ,errors4 ,! great public1 or t "p ( x :i* has rea*$ ! po9t ( accept+ m\nta9e]+ z a legitimate backgr\nd = s5sational magaz9e /ories1 *]i%es "o fix$ idea on ! subject ( climb+--t ! guide is a provid5ce :o kn[s & %[s & goes ! "o sacr$ & impeccable #8pa?' :i* e g5u9e m\nta9 possesses3 to g )\t him is to tempt de/ruction delib]ately2 some?+ l eject+ ! eng9e-driv]1 />t+ ! lev] & retir+ to smoke 9 a fir/-class c>riage4 ,! importance ( ! error is t its p]si/5ce p]mits x to dom9ate ! m9ds ( a l>ge numb] ( m5 :o #8d m\nta9s' e ye> f ! hotels4 ,to !m1 m\nta9e]+ means only ! traditional r\te up 9 ! traditional way2 & tradition dem&s ! surr5d] ( _! intellig5ce & p]sonal incl9ations = a day to ! unimag9ative tyranny ( any two *ance peasants betwe5 :om !y are advis$ to susp5d ! ex]cise ( _! own f9] faculties & ! direction ( _! v diff]5tly con/itut$ frames4 ,_! ambition is laudable1 b !y are 9 no s5se m\nta9e]s1 & !y may nev] become s1 any m ?an ^? :o cross ! ,*annel 9 a /eamboat are qualify+ z sailors4 ,b !y =m a consid]able portion ( ^? :o g among ! m\nta9s1 & include a l>ge numb] ( ^? :o give ! public _! exp]i5ces4 ,9 s f> _! patronage contributes to confirm & p]petuate ! long-liv$ error4 ,among a l>ge numb]1 also1 ( climb]s prop] ! error1 ?\gh diff]5t 9 k9d1 is z con/ant4 ,! magnific5t s*ool ( =eign rock climb]s :i* has ( late ye>s gr[n up 9 ! regions ( less] peaks nor?1 ea/ & s\? ( ! ,alps1 & :i*1 ) "s notable exceptions1 has little conception ( :at indep5d5t m\nta9e]+ on ! great peaks means1 accepts ! p]=mance & n>ration ( ^! t\ri/s 9 ! big ,alps z typical ( #8guid$ climb+1' & v ju/ly condemns x = its obvi\s lack ( _m ( ! features :i* con/itute ! pleasure or m]it ( _! own m\nta9e]+4 ,9 s f> z !y accept ! popul> & mi/ak5 classification into guid$ & guideless1 ^! climb]s help 9 cont9u+ x4 ,our equally brilliant s*ool ( ,briti% rock climb]s1 recogniz+ ! absurdity ( tak+ guides on ! %ort climbs ( ,scotl& or ! ,lakes or ,wales1 (t5 adopts ! same attitude4 ,only by sl[ exp]i5ce1 & 9 individual cases1 :5 !y meet ! problems & actual conditions ( real m\nta9e]+ 9 ! great ,we/]n ,alps1 d !y le>n ! magnitude ( ! traditional fallacy4 ,!re is1 !re=e1 excuse = ! ,press & ! lay public4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,guide ( ! ,*ronicles4 ,!re is yet fur!r ju/ification to be f\nd = !m 9 ! only lit]ature accessible to !m--! fam\s alp9e classics1 & ! orig9al relation%ip ( amateur & guide !re9 set =?4 ,we m\nta9e]s owe s mu* to ^! e>ly explor]s & to _! inspir+ records1 :i* fir/ set our feet on ! m\nta9 way & :i* rema9 our mo/ *]i%$ & rev]$ companions1 t x is an ungrateful task to h to =sake !m = a mom5t 9 ! int]e/s ( v]acity & ( our mod]n m\nta9 craft4 ,b _m ( ^! notable pione]s1 or at lea/ ^? ^: p]sonality is mo/ p]man5t 9 lit]ature1 7 n m\nta9e]s 9 ! te*nical s5se 9 :i* we und]/& ! ^w to-day4 ,m\nta9e]+1 z an art1 has made imm5se /rides among amateurs & pr(essionals alike s9ce _! "t1 due l>gely to ! =ce ( _! orig9al impulse4 ,:at 0 true ( _! "t is no long] true2 & :ile _! writ+ w rema9 ! s\rce ( e climb]'s inspiration until m\nta9e]+ may be =gott5 9 ! passion = w9t] sports & aviation1 x is n 9 ! be/ int]e/s ( ! sport t _! pron\ncem5ts %\ld be consid]$ z absolutely or1 ev5 on te*nical po9ts1 z relatively true ( mod]n conditions4 ,!y 7 und\bt$ly =tunate 9 _! guides4 ,:5 !y 7 n1 we d n he> ( x1 or only 9 a pass+ s5t5ce4 ,! amateurs 7 !mselves few 9 numb]1 & ! mo/ ent]pris+ naturally attract$ to !mselves ! few consid]able p]sonalities among a race ( z yet unspoil$ m\nta9 peasants & hunt]s4 ,!y f\nd !m companions1 m5 ( intellig5ce1 mann]s & c\rage4 ,! k ( m\nta9e]+ conditions 0 9 its infancy1 & ! peasant 0 accu/om$ f *ildhood to su* k z exi/$4 ,relatively to ! pres5t day he 0 bett] physically equipp$ ?an 8 employ]1 :o 0 prim>ily an explor] or a walk+ en?usia/4 ,he 0 !re=e n undes]v+ ( ! implicit confid5ce plac$ 9 8 judgm5t & skill4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,guide z he is4 ,conditions h *ang$4 ,guides h no long] ! opportunity ( travell+ up & d[n ! ,alps to secure ! same wide basis ( exp]i5ce4 ,only a few ( !m are tak5 beyond _! own valleys2 & :5 !y are1 !y are associat$ 9 mo/ cases ) local exp]ts1 :o relieve !m ( ! necessity ( ex]t+ _! bra9s to discov] ! new conditions4 ,only 9 v r>e cases among _! multiple employ]s d !y ev] get ! same opportunity ( long contact ) m active or educat$ intellig5ces1 su* z c\ld react ^u _! own appreciation ( _! own m\nta9 problems4 ,! organiz$ conditions = t\ri/ life 9 ! ,alps1 ! sep>ate qu>t]s 9 hotel & hut1 ! rapid succession ( engagem5ts ) m5 ( diff]5t nationalities & div]g5t types1 & _! own guide-s*ools1 inculcat+ precise codes ( mann]s to use ) #8,h]r51' =bid ! old fre$om ( int]c\rse4 ,! be/ & mo/ travell$ ( guides has a diff]5t mann] on ! m\nta9 & 9 ! hotel4 ,!re is no au?ority s absolute z t ( ! hotel-keep] 9 a small democratic ,swiss community 9 all t affects ! t\ri/ traffic4 ,& ! ideas ( an av]age hotel-keep] z to ! nature ( t\ri/s & z to ! prop] behavi\r t[>ds !m on ! "p at lea/ ( 81 ! hotel-keep]'s1 dep5d5ts or inf]iors are n unlike ^? ( a head wait] 9 a city re/aurant4 ,! tradition t ! guide is a pr(essional s]vant has become engra9$4 ,! /\te/ ( m\nta9e]+ democrats has to accept its re/rictions1 once (f ! m\nta9s1 if only to save 8 guide's discom=t4 ,& ! av]age guide on 8 side1 deal+ e summ] ) succe$+ v>ieties ( incapable amateurs (t5 ignorant ( 8 language1 & accu/om$ to ! passive acceptance ( 8 s]vice to hoi/ !m up conv5tional peaks1 has gr[n up 9 a traditional atmosph]e ( alo(ness & ( c\rte\s disreg>d = 8 employ]s z m\nta9e]s 9 8 own pr(essional s5se4 ,a collective pr(essional attitude has e/abli%$ itself ( :i* ! e>ly days knew little or no?+2 ! mo/ indep5d5t ( guides1 h[ev] well he may "k 8 employ]'s capacity by exp]i5ce1 _c b f9d ! utmo/ difficulty 9 disc>d+ tradition & associat+ himself ) ! amateur's judgm5t if x happ5s to conflict ) local he>-say or ) ! view ( "s inf]ior pr(essional us+ ! famili> patois4 ,& j 9 s f> z a collective op9ion1 9 !atre or cr[d or guild1 is inf]ior to ! individual judgm5t ( ! majority ( intellig5t individuals :o compose x1 & e*oes1 z if unanim\sly1 ! m blatant voice ( ! m vulg> elem5ts1 9 s f> is ! capacity1 ev5 ( good individual guides ( ! pres5t day1 inf]ior to t ( _! pr$ecessors 9 matt]s requir+ ! ex]cise ( wid] intellig5ce ^u un=ese5 problems or new conditions4 ,j 9 s f>1 also1 are guides hamp]$ by _! body ( tradition & prejudice f pr(it+ by _! contact ) m educat$ m9ds1 or f le>n+ to apply new pr9ciples to ! special circum/ances ( _! pr(ession4 ,) ! =maliz+1 ev5 9 details1 ( ! r\te up e regul> peak1 ! /imulus ( romance & adv5ture has gone = !m f> m ?an = ! amateur4 ,! new g5]ation f9ds its only outlet 9 ! autumn *amois-hunt+1 if at all4 ,its m\nta9e]+ is j bus9ess4 ,!re are "s r>e & notable exceptions--p]haps z _m 9 actual numb] z =m$ ! *os5 b& ( guides :o l$ ! e>ly m\nta9e]s 9 _! pleasant comrade%ip ( triumph--b !y are atta*$ 9 almo/ all cases = ea* season to affectionate & jeal\s employ]s1 & = ! g5]al mass ( climb]s !re exi/s only a g5]al mass ( guides ( ! limit$ & pr(essional ca/ ( m9d4 ,9 cont9uance ( e>ly pione]+ tradition "s great amateurs ( ! old s*ool /ill ma9ta9 t ! guide's ^w %\ld be law 9 all tactical & ev5 /rategical decisions4 ,^! are ! =tunate m51 ^: k & reputation c comm& ! s]vices ( ! surviv+ body ( exceptions4 ,if !y 7 n s =tunate1 !y w\ld h to reconsid] _! view1 or !y w\ld1 at ! pres5t date1 see m ( hotels ?an ( huts1 ( pa/ures ?an ( peaks4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,amateur z he may be4 ,if guides h1 z a :ole1 n progress$ 9 ! responsible & sympa!tic qualities ess5tial = managem5t1 amateurs h improv$ out ( all proportion4 ,m\nta9 craft1 ! ma/]y ( ! laws t gov]n ice & rock & ( _! application1 has become an exact sci5ce1 & ! educat$ intellig5ce1 "u "r guidance1 is able 9 a season or s to ent] ^u a :ole inh]itance ( k1 ( detail & pr9ciple1 :i* x took decades ( t5tative exp]im5t to discov]4 ,9 ! matt] ( purely te*nical skill also1 ( physical p]=mance1 ( balance1 ! use ( ! feet1 ( ! axe1 ! rope & ! eyes1 ! ph5om5on common to all sports has made itself evid5t3 ea* new g5]ation ( climb]s appe>s to inh]it1 almo/ z an in/9ct & )\t visible or consci\s /udy1 a great] adaptability1 an easi] appreh5sion1 z x 71 ( ! necess>y & improv+ physical adju/m5ts :i* _h to be labori\sly acquir$ by ! previ\s g5]ation4 ,consequ5tly ! good amateur n[ br+s to ! p>tn]%ip a m\nta9e]+ qualification unimag9$ fifty ye>s ago1 possess$ ( an accumulat$ k ( all v>y+ & record$ conditions & ( a transmitt$ in/9ct = ! novel a?letic requirem5ts4 ,9 /at+ ?is1 ,i d n wi% = a mom5t to be ?\ght to und]value ei!r ! _s or ! skill ( ! few great e>ly guideless p>ties :o fir/ broke loose f ! gr[+ oppression ( ! pr(essional guid+ traditions4 ,!y _h to face a ho/ile criticism ( ^: int5sity we h n[ little conception4 ,9 ! !n condition ( m\nta9e]+ k _! indep5d5t action1 und]tak5 delib]ately 9 ! be/ int]e/ ( m\nta9e]+ z a great pursuit1 po/ulat$ a resolute c\rage & a read9ess = responsibility t prov$ to be z well ju/ifi$ by _! record ( p]=mance z x rema9s des]v+ ( our :olehe>t$ admiration4 ,! relations ( amateur & guide w\ld probably 9 any case h foll[$ ! same l9e ( developm5t4 ,b ^! pione]s did m ?an anticipate4 ,!y fir/ taught ! amateur t x 0 safe = him1 if he wi%$1 to prosecute ! craft = himself1 & t he possess$ advantages t c\ld make him1 if he foll[$ !m up indep5d5tly1 all b ! equal ( ! be/ guides4 ,a guide is1 9 fact1 only a #8guide' 9 ! s5se t he belongs to a pr(essional class4 ,! "n c no long] be us$ to imply an inh]5t supremacy 9 all fields ( m\nta9e]+4 ,simil>ly an amateur possesses an inh]itance & opportunities :i* make x possible = him to make himself z good z a guide 9 _m1 & bett] ?an a guide 9 sev]al1 important qualifications4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,composite ,m\nta9e]4 ,! title m\nta9e] c no long] be conf9$ to ! man ( ! m\nta9s4 ,x connotes ! p]fect ma/]y ( a difficult craft to :i* guide & amateur alike aspire4 ,?is m\nta9 sci5ce consi/s ( sev]al dep>tm5ts ( equal importance1 9 "s ( :i* ! amateur1 9 o!rs ! guide1 />ts ) an initial advantage4 ,9 relation to its absolute acquisition !re are bad pr(essionals & m$ium pr(essionals1 & bad amateurs & mod]ate amateurs1 accord+ to _! p]sonal & n _! class values4 ,if !y develop _! exp]i5ce & skill at an ev5 rate1 ei!r w reta9 8 initial advantage ov] ! o!r accord+ z ! degree ( difficulty or ! special "* ( ! climb+ gives ! great] opportunity to ! special qualities ( ! "o or ( ! o!r4 ,ultimately1 9 ! highe/ flights ( m\nta9e]+1 a po9t ( difficulty is rea*$ :i* calls = ! highe/ degree ( effici5cy 9 all ! dep>tm5ts2 & s9ce human endurance is limit$ & economy is ess5tial = em]g5cies1 ! ideal comb9ation = swift & secure progress 9 ^! ultimate exp$itions is to be f\nd 9 ! association ( ! qualities ( ! guide & ! amateur1 ea* supremely qualifi$ 9 8 own dep>tm5t4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,guide z ,m\nta9e]4 ,a good guide is acclimatiz$1 accu/om$ f 8 y\? to ! food1 heights & discom=ts ( sleep4 ,! necess>y muscles h be5 h>d5$ by ye>s ( practice4 ,no av]age amateur1 com+ out = a few weeks ea* ye> & unaccu/om$ to manual lab\r1 :atev] 8 skill or tal5t1 c hope to comp>e ) him 9 endurance & consi/5t pace1 be x 9 /ep-cutt+ = long h\rs on an ice slope or 9 fac+ /ruggle aft] /ruggle on an exhau/+ rock climb4 ,! guide is inur$ to sn[/orms & cold w9ds1 & 8 f+]s c usually outla/ an amateur's 9 cle>+ out & cl++ to sn[y holds or ic$ rocks4 ,he possesses ?us m p[]ful res]ves aga9/ unexpect$ bad wea!r or aga9/ un=ese5 difficulty or ex]tion cont9u$ = an undue l5g? ( "t4 ,he has also ano!r advantage4 ,amateurs :o attempt big climbs are accu/om$ only to climb ) safe companions4 ,!y h _h1 !re=e1 little practice 9 deal+ ) unexpect$ slips 9 easy places4 ,ev5 if !y h tra9$ _! obs]vation & protective movem5t by lead+ beg9n]s on ,briti% rock climbs1 ! duration ( ! att5tion dem&$ has be5 %ort1 & !y h kn[n :]e to be on _! gu>d1 & ) :om4 ,b 9 ! ,alps ! l>g] "p ( ! day is sp5t 9 trav]s+ comp>atively easy gr\nd well )9 ! p[] ( ! p>ty1 b :]e ! height & position may always conv]t an inatt5tive /umble into a fatal accid5t4 ,a guide has be5 accu/om$ to look+ aft] ! unacc\ntable vag>ies ( beg9n]s & incompet5ts ov] long days on easy & difficult gr\nd alike4 ,9 8 association ev5 ) a /rong p>ty ?is survives z an in/9ct4 ,he is n caught napp+ by ! mis/ep into :i* ev5 f9e amateurs or o!r guides 9 8 p>ty may be entrapp$ at ! end ( a long day by fatigue1 w9d1 d>kness or ov]-confid5ce4 ,a good guide has1 ?us1 special initial qualities :i* make him a sort ( insurance policy 9 c]ta9 v important respects4 ,8 gifts r$uce ! p]c5tage ( accid5tal risk pres5t on e climb1 & 8 consi/5cy ( pace & endurance ensures a l>g] m>g9 ( "t = em]g5cies4 ,he c also c>ry m4 ,he br+s to ! p>tn]%ip physique1 endurance1 pr(essional te*nique & wat*fulness1 & a local in/9ct = "t or wea!r4 ,8 op9ion 9 8 own sph]e is invaluable2 x has g5]ally ! additional weight ( fre$om f ! enticem5ts ( romance & en?usiasm4 ,! amateur 9 control %\ld give x e consid]ation2 b x does n relieve him ( 8 own responsibility4 ,a fir/-class workman may make a v bad manag+ director4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,amateur z ,m\nta9e]4 ,on 8 side ! good amateur has antec$5ts & opportunities1 su* z ! guide _c possess1 = develop+ 8 initial advantages 9 8 own peculi> dep>tm5t4 ,he has1 or ought to h ! sup]iority ( ! educat$ m9d ov] ! un$ucat$1 ( ! lib]al intellig5ce ov] ! n>r[1 ( contact ) m51 ( read+1 ( ! *ance ( le>n+ pr9ciple & prec$5t f books & m5 in/ead ( f small exp]i5ce1 & ( ! application ( imag9ation & a tra9$ m9d to ! acquisition ( all ! details ( m\nta9 craft4 ,he c le>n h[ to judge ( ! individual capacity ( 8 amateur p>ty & ( _! condition on ! day4 ,he c e/imate ! guide's ability 9 8 own l9e1 by comp>ison1 bett] ?an ! guide c himself1 & f k ( 8 "* he c judge ( ! value ( ! guide's op9ion on te*nical po9ts4 ,9 an important decision z to advance or retreat he is1 consequ5tly1 9 a bett] position to weigh ! value ( ! p>ty aga9/ ! resi/ance ( ! m\nta94 ,9 all t may be call$ ! human dep>tm5t ( m\nta9e]+1 ! judgm5t & managem5t ( ! m51 ! application ( wid] exp]i5ce1 ( accept$ g5]al pr9ciples1 ( imag9ation & reason+ p[]s to ! solution ( p>ticul> problems1 ! good amateur is1 or c be1 ! good guide's sup]ior4 ,he has also ! advantage ( be+ able to make up rapidly1 by means ( read+1 imitation & ! progressive adaptability already m5tion$1 mu* ( 8 inf]iority to ! guide 9 pure te*nique4 ,9 r\te f9d+ & local k he c run ! guide close by avail+ himself ( previ\s records1 ( maps 7always a my/]y to mo/ guides71 ( local in=mation1 ( ! tracks or pres5ce ( o!r p>ties1 & ( ! admirable climb]s' guide-books ( all nations4 ,x is 9 fact no long] possible to designate climb+ done "u ^! conditions by amateurs ( ?is class z #8guideless' climb+ 9 ! s5se t climb+ fifty ye>s ago 0 entitl$ #8guideless' & look$ ^u z unju/ifiable4 ,x is !re=e easily to be und]/ood t a l>ge numb] ( mod]n m\nta9e]s1 consci\s ( ! am\nt ( ! field t _! own qualifications & ^? ( _! p>ty c cov]1 pref] to be free f any pr(essional *eck ^u _! enjoym5t ( ! m\nta9s4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,"q = ! ,lead]4 ,if good lead]s "k ! p[] ( _! companions1 :]e !y fall %ort ( ^? ( a guide & h[ !y c be supplem5t$1 & if !y *oose climbs )9 ^? p[]s s f> z is p]sonally or climatically calculable1 !y h a "r to decide :e!r ! balance ( pleasure & effici5cy is on ! side ( us+ or ( n us+ pr(essional assi/ance1 ) its m]its & dem]its4 ,!re is an imm5se area 9 m\nta9e]+ :]e ! special sup]iority ( a guide 9 ! directions ,i h indicat$ has no opportunity ( mak+ itself app>5t4 ,= ! majority ( difficult rock peaks1 :i* are by nature %ort1 = ! ord9>y r\te f9d+ up big m\nta9s1 = ! endless v>iety ( climb+ on passes & 9 regions ( ! less] ranges1 a fir/-rate amateur c make himself z effective z a fir/-rate guide4 ,he c climb exhau/+ rocks z brilliantly1 provid$ x is n = z long2 he c cut /eps on ! /eepe/ ice only a little less fa/1 = a suffici5t numb] ( h\rs2 he c be z wat*ful on all b ! mo/ fatigu+ exp$itions4 ,if ! lead] & p>ty are effici5t & "k & obs]ve _! limitations1 no m\nta9e] 9 m ?an "n w n[ criticize !m = go+ )\t #8guides1' ev5 if ! occasional accid5t1 aga9/ :i* no k is security1 may 9 ! c\rse ( "t select _! #8guideless' p>ty = its undiscrim9at+ attack4 ,a m\nta9e] :o has qualifi$ himself z a good lead] ( a p>ty z well z a s\nd climb] has e>n$ ! "r to weigh ! social disadvantage ( tak+ a guide aga9/ ! te*nical /r5g!n+ 8 pres5ce w contribute1 9 relation to ! "* ( ! climb+ he int5ds to und]take1 & to make 8 own decision4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,social ,consid]ation4 ,! te*nical advantage ( tak+ a guide has be5 expla9$2 ! social objection may be %ortly /at$4 ,!re is an inh]5t re/ra9t ^u ! feel+ ( indep5d5ce & holiday fun among a p>ty ( fri5ds 9 ! pres5ce ( "s "o ( =eign spee* & ( diff]5t habits ( ?\ght & body2 above all1 ( "o :o climbs ) !m = pay & n = _! common pleasure4 ,! association is intimate 9 climb+1 & ! atmosph]e is inevitably affect$1 & ! spirits *eck$1 if any "o ( ! p>ty is n 9 key ) ! re/1 does n use _! %ibbole?s or is unable to laugh ) _! jokes4 ,:5 a p>ty consi/s ( m ?an "o amateur1 & (t5 9 ! case ( only "o1 etiquette usually insi/s ^u a second guide be+ tak54 ,if !re is a second guide1 a division into two camps is =m$--"o felt if n express$--:i* no g5iality or l+ui/ic ability c dissolve4 ,! second pr(essional is ne>ly always1 by ! nature ( ! case1 an inf]ior1 m b\nd by 8 ca/e & ) less int]e/ 91 because less responsibility =1 ! success ( ! p>ty4 ,he w g5]ally voice valley prejudices & pr(essional doctr9es :i* are enemies to ent]prise & individual a*ievem5t1 & he w =m a sort ( unreason+ c\nt]poise to any effect t less hamp]$ amateur op9ions might o!rwise h ^u ! views ( ! fir/ guide4 ,situations are ?us creat$ ^: solution dem&s m tact & att5tion ?an a man on holiday feels dispos$ to devote to 8 sport4 ,! possibility ( _! occurr5ce =ces him to put a con/ra9t ^u himself1 9 view ( cont+5cies1 :i* is antagoni/ic to ! complete comrade%ip ( m\nta9e]+4 ,he _c1 z ! lead] ( su* a p>ty1 m]ge 8 id5tity1 & !re=e 8 au?ority1 9 ! pleasant fluctuations ( ! common mood4 ,! association ( guides also ?r[s ^u him _m small additional details ( daily managem5t1 if he is go+ to get ! be/ use out ( !m & keep !m 9 good temp]4 ,8 att5tion to heal?1 food1 p]sonal v>iations & hum\r has to embrace a :ole new & =eign gr\p ( traditions & idiosyncrasies ( :i* he has small exp]i5ce4 ,he has n only to att5d to ^!1 b also to br+ !m into h>moni\s co-op]ation dur+ all ! incid5ts ( ! day ) ! pref]5ces1 conditions & peculi>ities ( 8 amateur memb]s1 & ) _!--to ! guides--incompreh5sible ideals ( adv5ture & fun4 ,o!r ?+s be+ equal1 a lead] :o kn[s t 8 p>ty is compet5t %\ld be free1 on ! gr\nd ( ! extra call _! pres5ce puts ^u 8 managem5t1 to decide to d )\t guides4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,te*nical ,comp5sation4 ,b if he is n sure ( himself1 or if 8 p>ty is unequal or inexp]i5c$1 he has no "r to risk ! possibility ( disa/] to 8 p>ty & ! c]ta9ty ( premature grey hairs = himself by omitt+ to take a good guide on ?is social gr\nd alone4 ,& suppos+ him to be a man ( consci5ce & compet5ce1 & n a reckless #8kraxl]' ( no m\nta9e]+ claims1 he w n all[ 8 decision to take a guide to be influ5c$ by any fe> t ! cr$it ( 8 p>ty w be dim9i%$ 9 any compet5t m\nta9e]'s eyes by ! fact t a prejudic$ or a ?\ghtless mod]n virtuosity might je] at x z #8guid$4' ,sid5ote3 ,examples4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,exp]t4 ,9 proportion z ! collective effici5cy ( ! amateur elem5t is less1 ! necessity ( tak+ a guide on ! te*nical gr\nds describ$ is emphasiz$4 ,! good amateur1 if he is alone 9 ! ,alps ) "o beg9n] or ) two beg9n]s1 %\ld c]ta9ly always take a guide4 ,if he has "o beg9n] & a man ( second-rate skill or exp]i5ce1 he %\ld 9 mo/ cases take a guide2 b some?+ !n dep5ds ^u ! nature ( ! climb+ he has 9 view4 ,simil>ly1 if he is alone ) a second-rate amateur1 he %\ld take a guide = glaci] "w & = all #8mix$' climb+1 unless x be ( a "* to be well )9 ! second amateur's p[]s z well z )9 8 own4 ,if he is aim+ only at :at may be call$ #8"o-man climbs1' su* z %ort1 difficult rock peaks1 8 own skill may be consid]$ adequate = ! safe ma/]y ( ! difficulties1 & ! second man ne$ only be responsible & capable ( foll[+ )\t undue ex]tion to bo?4 ,b 9 ?is case he mu/ rememb] t he is mak+ no all[ance = accid5t1 injury or ! un=ese54 ,9 all cases ! fir/-class amateur rema9s ! lead] or manag] ( any p>ty4 ,he is always supreme 9 8 own dep>tm5t ( managem5t2 & ! fact t ! unequal or d\btful compet5ce ( 8 p>ty1 te*nically speak+1 or ! difficulty ( ! climb 9 prospect1 may make x advisable to take a guide1 & may r5d] ! p>ty dur+ ! day m dep5d5t ^u ! guide's s+le contribution ?an w\ld be ! case 9 a p>ty ( m equal te*nical skill1 %\ld only be consid]$ to give ! guide a r l>g] %>e 9 ! g5]al responsibility4 ,! fact t a guide is tak5 does n ju/ify ! lead] 9 ?r[+ ! :ole responsibility ^u him or 9 all[+ 8 p>ty to d s2 & 9 ! ev5t ( any un=tunate issue x w be no def5ce = 8 surr5d] ( 8 prop] functions 9 ! eyes ( good m\nta9e]s t he is able to plead t he 0 te*nically #8guid$4' ,on ! desc5d+ scale ( climb+ compet5ce1 :5 p>ties are 9 "q :i* conta9 no fir/-class amateur1 a guide is1 ( c\rse1 ess5tial2 & 9 ?is case 8 supremacy 9 skill1 accompani$ by any proportion ( manag+ ability :i* he has acquir$1--& :i* w naturally be great] ?an t ( su* inexp]i5c$ amateurs1--entitle him to all ! control1 & consequ5tly to mu* ( ! responsibility :i* 9 =m] days us$ to be consid]$ 8 alone 9 e dep>tm5t ( m\nta9e]+4 ,su* p>ties may be ( ?ree k9ds3 mod]ate m\nta9e]s ( "s exp]i5ce1 :o by *oice conf9e !mselves to mode/ climbs & wi% to d !m ) ! utmo/ security & ! lea/ p]sonal ex]tion2 beg9n]s1 :o h /ill to le>n all _! bus9ess2 & ^? t\ri/s already m5tion$1 :o m]ely wi% to #8d a m\nta94' ,sid5ote3 ,! ,t\ri/4 ,to take ! la/ fir/1 t ( ! t\ri/s 7& !re are _m ( !m71 ^: ambition x is to be tak5 up a big peak ) a big "n1 )\t conc]n+ !mselves ) le>n+ any?+ ( ! craft4 ,9 su* cases !y d well to tie !mselves betwe5 ! /ronge/ & mo/ highly recomm5d$ peasants !y c secure & leave ev]y?+ to !m4 ,aft] ! exp]i5ce !y w ei!r desire to become m\nta9e]s1 :5 !y w jo9 ! class ( beg9n]s1 or !y w desi/4 ,i %\ld be ! la/ to depreciate any manife/ation ( ! _s t has br\ght u all to ! hills1 b 9 ?is *rysalis condition _! p]=mance is n titul>ly m\nta9e]+1 &--x is bad = ! guides6 ,an occasion comes back to m9d--an asc5t ( ! ,matt]horn on "o ( ! two days ^u :i* x 0 climbable 9 a bad season4 ,n9e memb]s ( a f>-we/]n gymna/ic club *ose ! same day = ! "o asc5t ( _! lives4 ,ea* 0 l$ on a %ort rope by a m or less compet5t peasant4 ,!y climb$ ) a magnific5t output ( muscle4 ,on rea*+ ! summit1 ) its incomp>able view & t]rific memories1 !y look$ nei!r d[n nor r\nd1 b jo9$ h&s 9 a circle fac+ inw>ds1 & gave n9e fe>ful & prolong$ college yells4 ,! be>-lead]s1 ea* gravely hold+ 8 sep>ate radiat+ rope1 /ood contemplat+ !m 9 a sil5t out] circle4 ,! simple c]emony accompli%$1 ea* guide gave a solemn twit* to 8 spoke1 or r to 8 rope4 ,! hub ( ! univ]se ob$i5tly dissolv$ itself1 & ! desc5t began4 ,"o wond]s :at pass$ ?r\gh ! guides' m9ds4 ,if any ( ^! m5 _h be5 kill$ on ! desc5t1--& x 0 a miracle 9 view ( ! condition ( ! m\nta9 & ( ! way !y climb$ t !y all escap$1 ) no?+ worse ?an a night out on ! rocks = sev5 ( ! c\ples1--popul> c5sure w\ld h sp>$ _! memories3 !y 7 n guideless4 ,:]eas1 if any "o ( our exp]i5c$ & cauti\s guideless p>ty _h be5 hit by "o ( ! c\ntless /ones ) :i* ! a?letes conv]t$ ! m\nta9 side = long h\rs into an active volcano1 !re w\ld h foll[$ ! inevitable outcry ov] 8reckless guideless climb+02 n only f ,press & public b ev51 ,i fe>1 f "s ( ! gu>dians ( anci5t m\nta9e]+ tradition 9 our climb+ associations4 ,to ! *ance ( ?is absurdity does ! p]petuation ( ! outworn di/9ction betwe5 #8guid$' & #8guideless' condemn any mod]n m\nta9e] ( ent]prise4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,beg9n]4 ,beg9n]s call = m c>eful consid]ation1 ?\gh !y may be ! lea/ likely to be tol]ant ( advice4 ,= ,i include among beg9n]s n only ^? :o h _h no exp]i5ce ( adv]se alp9e conditions1 b also all prophets :o are 9 ! habit ( ass]t+ t alp9e m\nta9e]+ only diff]s f crag climb+ 9 degree1 z well z all climb]s :o1 because _! mod]n balance te*nique has prov$ suffici5t to c>ry !m ?r\gh a season or s ( /&>d exp$itions 9 fair wea!r1 consid] !mselves fully qualifi$ to ex]cise all ! discretion>y functions ( managem5t & lead]%ip )\t fir/ le>n+ !m4 ,m5 are all beg9n]s :o h nev] discov]$ :at a lot !re is t !y d n "k4 ,!re are m5 climb+ 9 ! ,alps to-day :o1 f9d+ t _! fir/ guide 0 inf]ior to !mselves 9 pure cragsman%ip1 h disp5s$ ) guides altoge!r2 & a v sl[ progress 9 m\nta9 craft & 9 a*ievem5t has be5 ! result4 ,!re are also m\nta9e]s1 & good ones1 ^: compet5ce appe>$ to ju/ify !m 9 do+ )\t guides f ! />t1 b ^: brilliant p]=mances are /ill m>r$ by m\nta9e]+ errors :i* a m ?or\gh gr\nd+ w\ld h elim9at$ 9 "t4 ,:]e ! prep>ation has be5 defici5t1 managem5t & lead]%ip mu/ rema9 voyages ( unnecess>ily sl[ discov]y4 ,= beg9n]s or ought-to-h-be5 beg9n]s ( ^! sorts ,i c only hope t ! awak5+ may be z h>mless1 if n z prompt1 z m9e 0 9 l case4 ,look+ back f ! summit ( our second peak 9 our fir/ season1 ,i rem>k$ to my s+le companion3 8,look :]e t fool ( a fox has run up our ridge all along ! edge ( ! sn[-cornice6 ,& yet !y say t animals----0 ,& !n ,i realiz$1 ) an amus$ horror t has nev] be5 =gott51 t we 7 look+ at our own asc5d+ tracks6 ,well2 on ! desc5t we f\nd t1 ?\gh we _h asc5d$ )\t a ?\ght = cornices1 we 7 equally 9 error on ! summit 9 ?9k+ we saw a cornice to ! ridge ov] :i* our tracks pass$6 ,! next season we 7 cont5t to take guides4 ,s w any sage beg9n] 9 ! ,alps or o!r great range1 if he is n =tunate en\gh1 & few are1 to be introduc$ to ! sci5ce betwe5 two fir/-rate alp9e amateurs4 ,if he is well advis$1 he w *oose 8 fir/ tra9] z mu* = 8 k ( managem5t--t is1 8 exp]i5ce ( amateurs1 8 p[] ( e/imat+ _! pot5tiality & ( enc\rag+ _! int]e/--z = 8 skill4 ,good second-class local guides 9 small c5tres1 9 contact ) mod]ate b fai?ful local patrons1 h (t5 _h m opportunities 9 ?is respect ?an m brilliant exp]ts at l>ge c5tres 9 con/ant engagem5t ) *ang+ employ]s4 ,he %\ld foll[ 8 tra9] implicitly1 note :at he does & h[ he does x1 & accept 8 judgm5ts2 b he %\ld wat* him p]si/5tly1 & discov] ^u :at he bases 8 actions or directions4 ,few peasants w be able to help him mu* by explanation4 ,!y act on in/9ct or exp]i5ce2 ! reasons !y may be induc$ to give are less likely to be correct ?an ! conclusions :i* an intellig5t amateur c draw = himself4 ,!y are also easily daunt$4 ,= ?is reason ! amateur1 ev5 if he ?9ks he kn[s bett] on occasion1 %\ld hold 8 tongue4 ,8 object is to le>n all he c1 n to *oke ! possibly adult]at$ spr+s ( wisdom4 ,he w soon acquire a mass ( small prec$5ts1 & out ( !m he w evolve a numb] ( g5]al pr9ciples su* z w enable him to take an increas+ %>e 9 ! managem5t ( 8 climbs4 ,a v small am\nt ( pr9ciple1 acquir$ & intellig5tly appli$1 w prove (t5 ( ev5 m s]vice ?an ! local guide's in/9ct1 :i*1 unless he be a really fir/-class man1 is apt to prove faulty "u novel conditions ( wea!r or ( ! un=ese54 ,dur+ 8 novitiate he %\ld keep (f ! big exact+ asc5ts1 :]e he w h little leisure to obs]ve1 & :]e ! am\nt he c le>n ( ! reasons = foll[+ accept$ l9es1 = avoid+ o!rs & s on1 is small comp>$ to ! m]e physical ex]tion t is call$ =4 ,he %\ld conf9e himself to ! less kn[n regions :]e "s r\te f9d+ is necess>y1 & to ! glaci]s & ne> rock ridges1 :]e po9ts ( te*nique c be /udi$ 9 repetition & v>iety1 & beg9n+s & end+s & alt]natives ( r\te & all ! o!r matt]s common to small & big peaks alike--& vital to 8 education--are to be f\nd 9 f> great] numb]s 9 proportion to ! gr\nd t an active man c cov] 9 ! day4 ,"o helpful v>iety he %\ld all[ himself dur+ 8 /udy "u a s+le guide 9 a home region4 ,he %\ld take an occasional t\r ( two days or s to climb a big peak 9 a diff]5t valley4 ,?is is a rapid way to acquire exp]i5ce ( all t guides c tea*4 ,x w be advisable to take on a second & really good guide f ! new di/rict to help ! p]man5t tra9]1 :o w g5]ally h be51 if he works 9 a less important c5tre1 a man ( second-rate te*nical1 & ( int5sive r ?an wide1 guid+ exp]i5ce4 ,! contra/ 9 _! /yles w be wor? wat*+2 & ! exp5se is 9 any case less ?an t ( engag+ two regul> guides = a long] p]iod--an alt]native :i*1 if he climbs 9 8 fir/ season f a popul> c5tre1 he w be unable to avoid4 ,9 8 second season he may1 if he wi%1 attempt "s guideless exp$itions1 9 a suitable region1 ) fri5ds ( equal or great] compet5ce4 ,b he %\ld n all[ ?is or any subsequ5t season 9 8 e>ly exp]i5ce to pass )\t sp5d+ at lea/ "s p]iod "u a good guide or a fir/-rate amateur4 ,he has s mu* to le>n t he %\ld n try to r$iscov] x all = himself4 ,a g5ius :o devotes ye>s to r$iscov]+ ! fir/ propositions ( ,euclid m]ely wa/es "t4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,mod]ate ,m\nta9e]4 ,! la/ case is t ( m\nta9e]s ( "s /&+1 :o ei!r on acc\nt ( m>riage1 or ( ye>s & a com=table habit1 or f ! philosophical attitude ( m9d :i* succe$s ! en?usiasm ( y\? & smiles at its ambitions :ile x /ill enjoys a measur$ indulg5ce 9 its pleasures1 pref] to be reliev$ ( any k9d ( responsibility4 ,^! m5 take guides z a matt] ( c\rse1 & leave to !m f *oice ! managem5t ev5 9 ^? dep>tm5ts :i* _! own exp]i5ce w\ld entitle !m to direct4 ,_! int]e/ 9 m\nta9e]+ is a p]sonal "o1 z an occasion = heal?ful ex]cise1 = air & refre%+ views4 ,!y pursue x = its di/raction f o!r m worldly int]e/s1 n simply = its own sake4 ,!y are n conc]n$ ) its high] developm5ts z a f9e art1 & z mu* f a mode/ appreciation ( _! own p[]s z f a delib]ate depreciation ( its possibilities1 !y r5\nce on _! own behalf all ! fur!r opportunities :i* x (f]s = self-discov]y & self-tra9+1 9 ! managem5t ( m5 & ! progressive ma/]y ( physical difficulty4 ,! attitude has our sympa?y4 ,^? ^: grav] appreciation ( ! m\nta9s1 ^: less tutor$ _s ( romance & adv5ture impel !m to accept lab\r1 responsibility1 h>d%ip1 dang] & sorr[ z integral p>ts ( _! m\nta9 s]vice1 & z a high discipl9e = body & _s su* z no o!r outlet f ! en]vat+ oppression ( civiliz$ life n[ af=ds1 w recognize 9 ?is g5tl] manife/ation ( _! own impulse a grateful pro( ( ! fasc9ation :i* m\nta9e]+ c /ill ex]cise ^u e v>iety ( civiliz$ bra9 & "*1 ^u m5 ( f9] intellect1 wid] opportunities = usefulness1 & p]haps m balanc$ temp]am5t ?an _! own4 ,?is consid]able & (t5 di/+ui%$ body ne$s no advice ) reg>d to ! conduct ( its guid$ climb+2 b x may n be sup]flu\s to rem9d x ( an obligation :i* x owes to m\nta9e]+ z an in/itution4 ,if only because ( _! numb] & _! m frequ5t meet+s 9 c5tres--= ! m9ority ( :olehe>t$ devotees are g5]ally isolat$1 & guideless p>ties are indep5d5t & migratory by *oice--^! some:at temp]ate m\nta9e]s =m ! c5tral body ( alp9e op9ion4 ,:atev] _! desire to make _! climb+ m]ely a p]sonal pleasure trip & to avoid ! m /r5u\s curr5ts1 yet 9 s f> z !y use _m guides & make ) !m ! l>ge majority ( ! guid$ asc5ts made 9 any ye>1 !y mu/ be held responsible = ! tra9+ ( ! guides1 m5tally & morally1 :ile 9 _! pay4 ,!y are assi/+ to create a consid]able am\nt ( ab/ract alp9e doctr9e bo? = ! pres5t & ! future1 & are e/abli%+ _m m p>ticul> conv5tions affect+ ! attitude ( guides t[>ds amateurs1 & ( amateurs t[>ds guides1 & ( ! public t[>ds bo?4 ,b ! attitude ( m9d 9 :i* !y pref] to approa* ! pursuit makes !m too (t5 neglectful ( ! *>ge & ( ! la/+ effect ( _! p>ticipation4 ,"s f m]e passive acceptance ( ! treatm5t z "p ( ! game1 o!rs ) an amus$ inw>d deta*m5t1 enc\rage "y guides & old guides alike to manage e mom5t & movem5t ( _! day2 satisfi$ t !y !mselves are gett+ all ! pr(it 9 heal? & safety :i* is _! limit$ holiday object4 ,!y are l g5ial uncles :o jo9 9 a game & submit ) an int]ior smile to ! hector+ ( _! nephews1 retir+ :5 !y please to make criticisms = _! own & _! neighb\rs' amusem5t 9 ! pavilion4 ,b 9 m\nta9e]+ ! rig\r ( ! game is ess5tial to its good conduct4 ,a guide indulg$ is a guide spoil$4 ,an amateur indol5tly criticiz$ may mean a position p]man5tly falsifi$4 ,our small public op9ion is n easily correct$4 ,f ! />t1 a "r reputation is z ess5tial = our social influ5ce ) ! guides z x is vital = our mutual climb+ safety4 ,9 ! ,alps we h a l>ge numb] ( pr(essionals ^: liv+ dep5ds ^u _! ma9ta9+ a satisfy+ relation%ip ) _! employ]s1 & a small numb] ( amateurs ^: pleasure 9 _! holiday dep5ds ^u ma9ta9+ a suitable influ5ce ) _! guides4 ,! balance is difficult to pres]ve1 & !re is no room = dilettantism4 ,irresponsible h&l+ ( guides may 9 any decade result 9 a mass ( amateurs spe$+1 by pref]5ce1 guideless & insecurely uphill 9 a m\nta9 s5se1 & 9 a mass ( vocationless guides spe$+ surely d[nhill 9 a f9ancial s5se4 ,sid5ote3 ,summ>y4 ,a fir/-rate amateur1 !re=e1 w take guides )\t hesitation1 :5ev] he consid]s ! p[]s ( 8 fri5ds too weak 9 g5]al = absolute safety on ! te*nical side1 or ! p>ticul> climbs !y desire on occasion to attempt too exact+ = _! normal collective effici5cy4 ,8 own conc]n ) guides is to le>n h[ to manage !m & to get ! be/ use out ( _! special qualifications4 ,responsible1 b less exp]t m\nta9e]s1 :o wi% to be indep5d5t1 w nev]!less take fir/-rate guides = ! same reason on occasions :5 _! exp]i5ce advises !m ( ! advantage ( _! p>ticul> s]vices to ! p>ty4 ,!y h to le>n h[ to reconcile ! ret5tion ( _! own prop] %>e ( managem5t ) ! great] %>e ( responsibility 9 all dep>tm5ts :i* 9 ?is case falls to ! fir/-rate guide4 ,m\nta9e]s :o wi% to be free ( all responsibility w take guides because !y *oose to4 ,!y h to le>n h[ n to spoil !m1 & h[ to prev5t ! example ( _! own volunt>y surr5d] ( _! h]itage f bias+ _! own & ! public view ( su* ( _! contempor>ies z may attempt to enjoy a diff]5t =m ( indep5d5ce4 ,novices w take guides z soon z !y h discov]$ t !re is any?+ !y !mselves d n "k4 ,!y h to le>n f guides all !y c1 s z to e>n ! "r to d )\t !m lat] if !y desire4 ,t\ri/s1 or exp]im5tali/s1 int5t to #8d a m\nta91' w take guides4 ,x w be se5 t ! "q ( tak+ guides is no long] to be decid$ on ! traditional s+le issue1 :e!r ! guide is #8bett]' ?an ! amateur4 ,! "q has n[ two aspects1 ev5 z #8lead]%ip' has n[ develop$ two ma9 divisions4 ,9 ! e>lie/ /ages ( amateur accompli%m5t1 :ile ! beg9n] has no qualifications1 ! guide is tak5 because he is te*nically bett] qualifi$ & has also1 by local k1 in/9ct1 etc41 a l>g] proportion ( ! qualities necess>y = managem5t4 ,! guide enjoys 9 ?is case 8 hi/oric position ( s+le responsibility4 ,9 ! second /age1 :]e ! climb] may be only a novice 9 ! alp9e s5se1 ! guide may possibly be te*nically inf]ior to 8 employ] z a rock climb]1 a pace mak] & s on2 b 9 ! abs5ce ( ! amateur's alp9e exp]i5ce ! guide des]ves to reta9 8 #8lead]%ip' :5 8 qualifications 9 bo? m\nta9e]+ fields are consid]$ toge!r4 ,z we move up ! scale ( exp]i5ce1 & ! amateur is f\nd to h develop$ m & m 8 initial advantages 9 ! qualities necess>y = managem5t1 ! decision to employ or n to employ a guide dep5ds m & m ^u h[ f> x may be ?\ght advisable to supplem5t ! te*nique ( ! p>ty4 ,aga91 9 proportion z ! amateur & 8 p>ty cont9ue to rem$y _! te*nical inf]iority1 :ile !y improve _! exp]i5ce 9 managem5t1 p>i passu ! ne$ ( a guide1 9 ei!r dep>tm5t1 dim9i%es4 ,if he is employ$1 h[ev]1 8 g5]al responsibility is proportionately decreas$4 ,9 ^! lat] /ages ! relation ( guide & employ] is "o ( exp]t ) exp]t1 & ! guide's position1 if he is employ$ at all1 corresponds to t ( a pr(essional 9 a team1 :o is select$ = "s individual qualification :i* he is able to supply4 ,x w\ld be z ludicr\s n[adays to rate ! p]=mances ( su* climb+ comb9ations z praisewor?y or c5surable1 accord+ z !y 7 #8guid$' or #8guideless1' 9 ! old s5se ( ! t]m1 z x w\ld be = u to assume t any cricket team :i* conta9$ a pr(essional mu/ be ipso facto capta9$ by him1 or to refuse our recognition to any team :i* did n conta9 pr(essionals among its memb]s4 ,:51 !re=e1 we are consid]+ ! case ( a p>ty ( f9i%$ amateurs1 m5 :o are fir/ rate 9 bo? divisions ( m\nta9 craft1 z climb]s & z lead]s 9 managem5t1 & :o h no ne$ ( guides z a te*nical complem5t1 we mu/ be prep>$ to conc$e t = !m !re is n[ no rule4 ,! matt] becomes purely a "q ( p]sonal pref]5ce & ( p]sonal discretion 9 ! *oice ( ! climb4 ,sid5ote3 ,a ,supreme ,example4 ,i h left to ! la/ ! consid]ation ( ! "o exceptional case :]e1 = want ( suffici5t mat]ial z a basis = judgm5t1 no cle> cry/al ( mod]n m\nta9e]+ op9ion has _h opportunity to fa%ion itself1 & :]e ! old debate z betwe5 #8guid$' & #8guideless' /ill survives ) some?+ ( its old vivacity4 ,?is is ! case ( ! highe/ flights possible 9 m\nta9e]+1 ! asc5t ( ! limit$ numb] ( really great ridges & faces 9 ! ,alps & 9 less explor$ ranges4 ,^! climbs provide ! mo/ magnific5t ex]cise ( /r5g?1 endurance1 n]ve & _s1 all act+ 9 h>mony & all at _! utmo/ t5sion1 t human d>+ or +5uity has yet discov]$ or inv5t$4 ,if !y d n repres5t ! limit ( possible human a*ievem5t1 !y repres5t ! limit ( a*ievem5t possible ) security 9 a s+le day ( human ef=t4 ,!y are ! ambition ( e :olehe>t$ m\nta9e]1 b !y fall to ! lot ( only ! few4 ,_m ( !m are seldom repeat$2 on o!rs ! conditions v>y greatly betwe5 ! r>e asc5ts4 ,ev5 among ! =tunate few :o succe$1 x w be /ill few] :o c hone/ly say t !y rema9$ suffici5tly ma/]s ( !mselves & ( ! situation ?r\gh\t ! long day ( extraord9>y ef=t1 suffici5tly 9 comm& ( muscle & n]ve to meet all ! physical dem&s unassi/$ & ) a critical judgm5t1 suffici5tly consci\s ( all ! tactical1 human & te*nical manuvres by :i* ! success 0 f9ally won1 to be able to recov] f memory a deta*$ op9ion z to ! relative difficulty ( ! climb1 or to be able to e/imate fairly _! own ability to repeat ! day #8unguid$' 9 all its problems = lead]%ip z well z 9 its te/s ( pure skill & endurance4 ,x is a common fail+ among ev5 ! be/ ( m\nta9e]s to =get h[ mu* !y h be5 #8morally' assi/$ by _! company1 or h[ little !y may h p]sonally contribut$ to ! actual c>ry+ ?r\gh ( a great climb1 9 ! aft]gl[ ( its success4 ,! m we all[ = ! unusual physical & emotional reaction ( ^! great asc5ts1 ! less security we feel 9 apply+ /&>ds ( common judgm5t to ! op9ions & n>ratives ( _! few conqu]ors4 ,! body ( ord9>y exp]t m\nta9e]+ op9ion is ( little assi/ance4 ,m\nta9e]s ^: exp]i5ce is limit$ to normal asc5ts1 or :o may ev5 h #8done' "s ( ^! great] climbs betwe5 two exp]t pr(essionals ) _! bodies & _! judgm5ts equally 9 a condition ( susp5se1 are only a few degrees bett] qualifi$ ?an ! climb+ public to judge ( ! comb9ation ( human faculties requir$ = lead]%ip & managem5t 9 _! secure conque/4 ,we are =c$1 !re=e1 to take z our basis = comp>ison 9 =m+ our op9ion ! few records ( su* supreme asc5ts z h be5 p]=m$ by bo? guid$ & guideless p>ties4 ,if1 !n1 we exam9e ^! dispassionately1 & all[ = ! gold5 spectacles ( a natural exaltation1 ! great] :]e x is ! less pr(essional & ! m p]sonal1 we may decide t ! sum ( purely dang]\s incid5t1 ( b5ightm5ts1 races ) d>kness1 breakages ( cornice1 etc41 :i* !y n>rate1 adds up to ! disadvantage ( ! guideless asc5ts4 ,! proportion ( dang] incurr$ is ! "o absolute /&>d by :i* all m\nta9e]+ c be judg$4 ,betwe5 dang] & difficulty !re is a cle> l9e ( dem>cation1 :i* %ifts accord+ to our ability1 b :i* is always p]ceptible4 ,9 do+ )\t guides1 ^! gallant p>ties1 f _! own acc\nts1 :ile !y triumph$ equally ov] ! difficulties1 skirt$ m closely & m cont9u\sly along ! bord]-l9e ( dang]4 ,reason w\ld br+ u to ! same conclusion4 ,:5 we are e/imat+ ! limit ( :at is humanly safe 9 m\nta9e]+1 we are consid]+ n :at is securely possible = a s+le individual1 a comp>atively l[ /&>d1 b t :i* x may be possible = an ideal comb9ation ( m\nta9e]+ qualities to a*ieve 9 "o day4 ,up to ! pres5t "t we f9d 9 c]ta9 ( ! be/ ( ! guides ! highe/ developm5t yet atta9$ 9 "o ( ! two gr\ps ( necess>y qualifications2 9 c]ta9 ( ! be/ ( ! amateurs we f9d ! highe/ developm5t 9 ! o!r4 ,until guides are enabl$ to enjoy all ! advantages ( ! amateur's education & m5tal tra9+ :ile !y /ill reta9 _! own natural conditions ( life1 or until amateurs c live ! lives ( guides & yet rema9 all t wid] circum/ance & opportunity assi/ to make !m z amateurs1 ! f9e/ m\nta9e]+ comb9ation w & mu/ /ill rema9 t ( ! associat$ gr\p-qualities ( guide & amateur1 ea* gr\p 9 its highe/ degree ( individual developm5t4 ,if a small b concrete pro( 7 ne$$ t nei!r ! comb9ation ( ! be/ ( guides alone nor ( ! be/ ( amateurs alone repres5ts ! mo/ effici5t type ( m\nta9e]+ ma*9e1 x might be f\nd 9 ! hi/ory ( ! conque/ ( a numb] ( great alp9e climbs1 :i* = ye>s defeat$ alike good guides 9 association & good amateurs 9 association1 b f9ally yield$ 9 almo/ all cases to ! comb9ation ( good guides & good amateurs4 ,b x is dang]\s to dogmatize4 ,:5 we are talk+ ( exceptional asc5ts we are deal+ ) exceptional m52 & if we say t = ! safe p]=mance ( ^! exceptional asc5ts ! be/ amateur p>ties w be /r5g!n$ by ! addition ( ! be/ ( guides1 x is ) ! k t amateur climb+ has made extraord9>y /rides ( rec5t ye>s1 & t 9 any season ! conjunction ( two or m hi!rto unimag9$ amateur />s may yet fur!r raise ! recogniz$ limits ( ! safely possible 9 guideless climb+4 ,9 su* case1 ! "t-hon\r$ discussion z to :at degree ( difficulty makes a guide indisp5sable to an exp]t amateur p>ty1 9 ord] to m9imize its dang]s1 ) all its he>tburn+s & ra% intrusions1 w be remov$ into an ev5 m remote sph]e ?an ! already r>efi$ atmosph]e ( exceptional climbs 9 :i* alone x is /ill p]missible4 ,! matt] may !n be = sup]-m\nta9e]s to debate4 ,! discussion is n[1 9 all b ^! extreme cases1 dead4 ,s5tim5t or ignorance may /ill return to ! old w>-cries #8guid$' & #8guideless1' us$ ) ! old significance1 9 fireside j\rnals2 9 safe pr9t moon%9e may yet confuse ! climb+ ways :i* troops ( />s h illum9at$2 b 9 ! m\nta9s new developm5ts h e/abli%$ new doctr9e1 & a m\nta9e] is safe f criticism wor?y ( ! "n if he regulates 8 practice accord+ to mod]n int]pretation4 ,,! ,,managem5t ,,( ,,guides ,if or :5 a lead] decides to take guides1 he has to "k h[ to manage !m4 ,i h already said t he is n n[ entitl$ m]ely to engage ! be/ guides available1 & !n leave all ! direction & responsibility to !m4 ,few mod]n guides expect or des]ve ?is4 ,8 abdication w be foll[$ by />ts on wrong days1 amaz+ meals1 m visits to huts ?an m\nta9s1 unacc\ntable retreats1 & f9al disgu/ ) guides altoge!r4 ,8 p>ty1 at ! close1 w h atta9$ no h>mony & h liv$ divid$ into two camps4 ,! amateur memb]s w h be5 ! lea/ consid]$2 !y w ei!r h be5 dry-nurs$ or oppress$4 ,! surr5d] ( _! lead]'s functions to ! guides w h left !m ) no au?oritative *annel ?r\gh :i* to secure _! prop] %>e ( responsibility & indep5d5ce4 ,!y w h become discont5t$ & adopt$ ! conv5tional language ( ! l[] criticism1 abus+ ! guides = _! tobacco1 _! peaty clo!s1 _! dr9k+ & want ( ent]prise2 mu* z is /ill set =? 9 accr$it$ climb+ books ( ! #8picture-me-!n6' class4 ,! guides = _! "p1 undirect$ & un9spir$1 w h fall5 back ^u _! pr(essional traditions & caution1 meet+ ! unsympa!tic atmosph]e1 :i* !y d n und]/&1 ) taciturnity1 aggravat+ int]f]5ce or *ildi% ass]tiv5ess4 ,! :ole blame w h la9 ) ! lead]4 ,j = a h&ful ( silv] he left !m1 r5\nc+ 8 entire responsibilities because "o or two ( 8 p>ty 7 to receive c]ta9 %ill+s 9 return = _! skill$ companion%ip4 ,! p>ty has _h no lead]1 no focus = au?ority & op9ion1 & x c\ld atta9 no success4 ,sid5ote3 ,guide ,nature4 ,a guide is z mu* a human be+ z any amateur 9 ! p>ty4 ,if x is necess>y = ! manag] to h con/ant c>e ( ! heal? & morale ( 8 fri5ds1 x is d\bly s 9 ! case ( 8 guides4 ,! av]age guide is a peasant1 ) ! limitations t frame peasant virtues4 ,8 guid+ motive is ! /ruggle = exi/5ce "u h>d conditions4 ,8 w9t]s are sp5t 9 wood *opp+1 h>d "w & keep+ w>m1 ) c>ds1 w9e & village gossip = di/raction4 ,8 public is prepond]at+ly mascul9e3 9 _m m\nta9 villages ! proportion ( boys to girls is five to ?ree4 ,8 w9t] society consi/s ( a fluctuat+ population1 crudely pack$ = ! cold mon?s1 & disp]s$ 9 p>asitic occupations dur+ ! summ]2 x has !re=e n ev5 a p>o*ial s5se ( responsibility 9 ! creation ( its prejudices4 ,all talk circulates r\nd #8francs4' ,8 %ort summ] season is a succession ( conflicts ) v>y+ degrees ( incompet5ce1 9 a bus9ess 9 :i* 8 consci\s sup]iority is seldom *all5g$4 ,x is impress$ ^u him t 8 mo/ pay+ accompli%m5ts are an oblig+ mann] & a smatt]+ ( spok5 tongues4 ,he has small occasion to measure himself aga9/ o!r m5 or get an idea ( 8 own p]sonal value1 because ! _w comes to him 9 its mo/ artificial =m1 & plays him only at 8 own game ) a fanta/ic h&icap4 ,he is a *ild1 ) a precoci\s developm5t on a special l9e :i* gives him 8 "o /&>d = manhood 9 g5]al4 ,outside 8 valley he has to fe> ! antagonism1 ev5 ! petty viol5ce1 ( any local trade union2 inside x he has all a s*oolboy's fe> ( outrag+ "s po9t ( rigid local etiquette4 ,!re is no m ( ,william ,tell & ! edelweiss po/ c>d 9 ! mat]ial life ( a ,swiss valley ?an !re is ( ,rob9 ,hood & ,m]rie ,engl& 9 an agricultural village4 ,if ! guide turns back on an asc5t1 aft] he>+ "s incompreh5sible patois f a fell[-villag] ! ev5+ be=e 9 a hut1 or if he refra9s f bully+ a surly (ficial on our behalf1 on ^: good (fices he may be dep5d5t1 or if he %[s no active sympa?y 9 our condemnation ( a recalcitrant port]1 :o may be 8 wife's c\s91 we h no "r to expect any?+ diff]5t4 ,if aft] a gorge\s sunset & a romantic asc5t he /ill c>es m = our francs ?an our fell[%ip1 x is p]fectly natural4 ,we %\ld look = no?+ else1 if we _h n fa%ion$ our typical guide 9 y\? f ! n>rative ( ! great lit]>y pione]s1 :o /ill f\nd "h & !re a sympa!tic village unspoil$ by hotels & t\ri/s1 or a natural son ( ! hills ^: responsive c\rtesy c\ld reflect1 if x did n compreh5d1 ! symbolical attributes1 born ( ! realization ( romantic success & physical well-be+1 ) :i* ! imag9ation ( ! cont5t$ employ] inve/$ 8 guide's lead]%ip4 ,we too f9d a few su* m54 ,b we recognize !m z exceptions1 or z be+s :o visit u 9 _! full spl5d\r only 9 ! roseate h\rs ( rem9isc5ce foll[+ on a great climb4 ,! guide z we "k him is hill-born1 hill-br$1--t is1 a *ild1 ) a *ild's capacity = becom+ mu* :at we make him1--a companion1 a valet or a ma*9e1--& ) a *ild's suspicion & %yness1 :i* he hides "u an appe>ance ( pr(essional res]ve or a =mal polit5ess4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,"r ,foot+4 ,a lead] mu/ n be cont5t ) ei!r ! polite mann] or ! pr(essional alo(ness4 ,he mu/ fir/ get to "k 8 man ?or\ghly1 wat* 8 reactions on a climb1 & notice 8 weak & /rong po9ts1 :]e he is confid5t f k & :]e he is m]ely bluff+4 ,f 8 movem5ts or sil5ces he w soon be able to d$uce m ?an f 8 spee*4 ,he %\ld avoid direct opposition or discussion dur+ ! actual climb+4 ,! guide is z s5sitive & z in>ticulate z any o!r un$ucat$ h&icraftsman on po9ts t t\* 8 pr(essional skill or ca/e pride1 & ill-tim$ int]f]5ce w drive him to ! polite mann] = 8 protection4 ,x is a mi/ake1 also1 to all[ ! relation%ip to become too p]sonal1 to expect a guide to act z valet or to p]=m small m5ial s]vices 9 biv\ac or hotel4 ,!re are _m (fices :i* a guide p]=ms z "p ( 8 bus9ess1--cook+ & c>ry+ & ! c>e ( ! p>ty's com=t z a :ole4 ,b :5 an amateur has be5 indebt$ to 8 guide = putt+ on 8 putties 9 peace-"t1 x is impossible = him to res5t be+ treat$ z equally dep5d5t :5 ! crises ( battle take place4 ,! relation%ip _c be *ang$ 9 a mom5t1 mu* less 9 a crucial mom5t4 ,! foot+ e/abli%$ 9 ! valley1 9 ! hut or on ! long tramp1 w rema9 ! foot+ on ! m\nta9 side4 ,small h>d%ips & small com=ts h to be %>$ equally1 t !re may be an equal %>+ ( ! big responsibilities ( ! campaign & 9 ! decisions t g to meet difficulty or dang]4 ,/>t ) y\r guide on a "r foot+1 s t he sees t y recognize y\r duties t[>ds him z mu* z 8 t[>ds y4 ,see t he gets dec5t food 9 ! hotels2 "s head-wait]s1 portly ) t au?ority :i* a t\ri/ traffic inevitably conf]s1 nev] le>n to h&le a guide z any?+ b a s]vant 9 y\r employm5t & some?+ less 9 _! own2 b ! guide is g5]ally too loyal or too alo( 9 _s to tell y s4 ,let him h :at w9e he desires3 he w h to c>ry x himself4 ,no good guide dr9ks to excess1 "s n at all4 ,b f9e-drawn m51 n regul>ly n\ri%$ on meat1 w frankly admit t fail+ su* res]ves ! extra /imulus is occasionally really ne$$ if "s feat call+ ^u all _! /r5g? or endurance has to be c>ri$ ?r\gh4 ,a well-tra9$ body1 "u primitive conditions1 kn[s by in/9ct :at p>ticul> n\ri%m5t x ne$s1 & responds to its /imulus ) />tl+ sudd5ness4 ,a good guide1 on s]i\s "w1 w nev] take m ?an nature tells him is requir$1 :atev] y\r op9ion ( t am\nt may be4 ,( c\rse if he is a regul> or irregul> sipp] 9 idle mom5ts x is be/ to get rid ( him4 ,be c>eful t he has n too mu* to c>ry2 :5 !re are sev]al ( a p>ty1 & ea* adds "s trifle ( p]sonal luggage )\t kn[+ t ! o!rs may h done ! same1 ! load (t5 gets f> beyond :at ! lead] int5d$ 9 select+ ! provisions4 ,8 own food--he g5]ally pref]s 8 own ( its k9d--%\ld be unroll$ & se5 to ) ! o!r packages4 ,sleepy hotel-port]s1 "u ! head+ ( 8provisions = guide10 are apt to /uff 9 mosaics ( /range meats2 & aga9 ! guide is too polite to tell y3 x is n mann]s to worry ! g5tlem54 ,?is is j ! di/9ction :i* on all acc\nts y h got to break d[n4 ,consid] 8 com=t z t ( any o!r memb] ( ! p>ty dur+ ! day1 )\t seem+ to fuss or to be condesc5d+4 ,x is hopeless to try & make him #8"o ( y\rselves'2 he has 8 own pride1 & w\ld %rug 8 %\ld]s ov] premature famili>ity4 ,b quiet consid]ation w gradually conv]t ! relations into a pleasant mutual und]/&+4 ,take 8 sack z well z y\r own if he is lead+ & y judge ! extra weight is tax+ him unduly4 ,take y\r turn at lead+ 9 deep1 s(t sn[4 ,?is is ! only task ( %e] endurance 9 :i* ,i believe good amateurs c outla/ good guides4 ,look aft] 8 gett+ 8 food & a prop] place to sleep 91 unobtrusively1 :5 y get d[n f a big climb to new qu>t]s1 no matt] h[ tir$ y are4 ,x is 9 y\r own int]e/ = ! morr[4 ,if possible1 laugh him out ( ! common trick ( dropp+ beh9d & mak+ a sort ( tail to y\r triumph z y return into ! village or meet ano!r p>ty4 ,he is taught t ?is is good mann]s & w please y\r t\ri/%ip2 b x is really insult+ to bo?1 if a man has be5 y\r companion or lead] dur+ a great climb ( unit$ ef=t1 to accept ?is mock tribute to y\r poor dignity :5 !re is no long] any *ance ( go+ a /ep wrong4 ,! transp>5t imposition impresses nobody y meet1 & lea/ ( all y\rself or him4 ,9 ! valley let ! guide see t1 z betwe5 y\rselves1 y consid] t ! fell[%ip rema9s unalt]$1 t y d n b>t] y\r "r to be treat$ z 8 equal z a m\nta9e] = ! sake ( po/ur+ z 8 #8,h]r4' ,at ! same "t accept1 = ! sake ( 8 com=t & 8 op9ion ( y\r tact1 ! outw>d appe>ance ( diff]5tiation :i* 8 tra9+ has taught him to consid] consi/5t ) 8 position & y\rs 9 ?is valley & hotel life4 ,y w soon f9d out :at y c or _c d4 ,y _c traditionally invite him to d9n] at ! same table ) o!r /rang]s 9 a l>ge hotel1 b he w jo9 y = c(fee at y\r sep>ate table4 ,let him pay = y z y g4 ,! confid5ce w make him feel ( ! p>ty1 & has ! advantage ( gett+ y l>ge r$uctions ?r\gh 8 local k6 ,once he recognizes y z a human be+ & y h f\nd ! way ?r\gh ! cru/ ( 8 pr(essional suspicion & local upbr++1 y w "k him to be v human also1 ) a temp]am5t z easy z a *ild's to und]/& & z difficult z a *ild's to manage2 loyal1 sympa!tic1 (t5 s5sitive1 & naturally hone/4 ,he ent]s m into y\r aspirations ?an he v5tures to %[4 ,)\t s5tim5t1 )\t %>+ y\r ?\ghts or be+ able to ex*ange a ^w ab\t all ! v>i$ int]e/s t make up y\r own diff]5t outlook1 )\t ev5 und]/&+ y\r motives1 y may yet1 if y are =tunate1 f9d him a man :o w become y\r close fri5d1 ) :om y c %>e sil5ce & dang] & sorr[ 9 a community ( feel+ t ne$s no spee*4 ,9 contact ) elem5tal realities1 x is ! ess5tial p]sonalities1 n _! diff]5t decorations ( race or education1 t c\nt & t make contact4 ,anyone :o has foll[$ me s f> w probably be yawn+1 & ask+1 8,is ?is really all necess>y 9 ord] to enjoy a m\nta9 holiday80 ,x is n4 ,if y want to foll[ a hunt1 y h only to le>n to /ick on2 if y\r object is to cross ! ,atlantic1 y c d x 9 a l9]2 if y want j to d m\nta9s1 y c engage guides1 behave l a g5tleman1 & y w h got y\r desire4 ,b if y ev] wi% to realize ! incomp>ably great] pleasures ( hunt+ y\r own pack or sail+ y\r own boat1 y w h to set ab\t x 9 a diff]5t fa%ion4 ,ask a platoon-lead] or good company-(fic] :at proportion ( "t he gave to ! /udy & tra9+ ( 8 m5 be=e an (f5sive4 ,& !n be assur$ t m\nta9e]+ is a pursuit 9 :i*1 j z !re is no limit to ! asc5d+ scale ( pleasures :i* x (f]s1 /hetic & physical1 s also !re is no end to ! progressive /udy & prep>ation x dem&s f ^? :o w\ld foll[ its high] walks4 ,! bett] a man kn[s 8 *ild-guide1 ! m he w "k h[ to manage him1 s z to get ! be/ out ( 8 m\nta9e]+ precocity4 ,! happie/ arrangem5t is no d\bt to keep a c>eful eye op51 dur+ y\r prelim9>y ye>s ( tra9+ "u ! fir/ pr(essional1 s z to m>k d[n any ent]pris+ "y guides or port]s4 ,! "y guide ne$ n yet be an exp]t2 x is = ! amateur to give him ! opportunity = develop+ 8 te*nical skill 9 _! seasons ( progressive climb+1 :ile p>i passu ! amateur is e/abli%+ 8 own position 9 ! p>tn]%ip & p]fect+ himself 9 8 own dep>tm5t4 ,! companion%ip ( amateur & guide z fri5ds is ! ideal comb9ation = great m\nta9e]+ :]ev] ! gr\nd p]mits ( x4 ,s soon z a second pr(essional is add$ ! amateur is 9 a m9ority2 & no matt] h[ close 8 p]sonal association ) 8 fir/ guide1 ! pr(essional comrade%ip1 recall+ ! atmosph]e ( y\?1 may always ov]ride 8 influ5ce = ! day4 ,a s+le amateur1 !re=e :5 he f9ds x necess>y to take on extra help = a season or = "s exp$ition1 w d well to *oose "s "y man1 ! mo/ a?letic possible1 :o has 8 "n to make & is /ill only ?9ly cru/$ ) pr(essional tradition4 ,8 inexp]i5ce may keep him at lea/ sil5t 9 ! discussion ( important decisions4 ,sid5ote3 ,be=e ! ,asc5t4 ,! pr9ciples ( managem5t are ! same1 :e!r ! amateur is alone or ) fri5ds1 & :e!r ! guides are old fri5ds or comp>ative /rang]s tak5 on = ! season or ev5 ! day4 ,y\r conc]n is prim>ily ) ! guide's /ate ( m9d1 s t he may make ! be/ use ( 8 skill4 ,if y\r object is m]ely an ord9>y asc5t1 x is /ill important t ! lead+ guide %\ld be kept 9 ! "r mood1 bo? because ( ! great] contribution to ! social pleasure ( y\r p>ty if ?+s g rightly1 & because1 if *ecks ( wea!r or ( circum/ance arise1 z !y always may1 y h !n neglect$ no?+ t c contribute to a successful cont9uance ( y\r climb4 ,if y\r int5tion is some?+ beyond ! ord9>y1 y\r task ( prep>ation is m difficult4 ,= ! great] ! te*nical difficulties ( a climb1 ! l>g] mu/ be ! te*nical exp]t's 7or guide's7 %>e 9 decid+ :e!r !y c or _c be ov]come4 ,! idea ( ! asc5t has g5]ally fir/ to be made ! guide's own by subtle sugge/ion at conv5i5t mom5ts4 ,if y h got him up out ( ! valley 9 good heal? & spirits1 y h /ill ! dang] ( ! hut to meet1 :]e ! patois ( local guides1 %\ld y\r plan leak out1 w affect 8 next day's hum\r fatally1 ev5 if x does n turn y back at once4 ,9 view ( ?is dang] x is sometimes be/ to treat y\r attempt z an #8exploration' only1 until y are safely (f on to ! l[] glaci]s1 o!rwise y may f9d1 :5 y wake 9 ! hut1 t ! #8wrong rope' has be5 br\ght or #8! wea!r' is miracul\sly port5t\s4 ,a m\nta9e] may he> ^! & simil> :isp]$ euphuisms1 :i* are ! prelim9>y to retreat1 pass+ betwe5 a #8prompt$' guide & 8 expo/ulat+ employ] any night 9 any full hut4 ,he w n feel x 8 bus9ess to int]v5e on behalf ( ano!r employ] unless he is v sure ( 8 gr\nd4 ,aft] all1 ! guide may h good reason to mi/ru/ 8 employ]'s compet5ce1 & h *os5 ?is polite way ( sav+ 8 life or com=t 9 anticipation4 ,b ! lead] w be wise if he takes good note ( ! ma*9ations1 & ( all _! mean+s1 = 8 own protection 9 l case4 ,( c\rse ?is k9d ( excuse may1 9 cases1 be dictat$ by actual c[>dice & n only by hut talk4 ,my disreg>d ( ?is possibility lo/ me "o ( ! f9e/ climbs ,i h plann$4 ,aft] all ! gambits ( hut excuses1 #8wea!r' & #8rope1' _h be5 c\nt]$1 & we 7 actually on ! m\nta91 my s+le guide1 ( f9e reputation & great "n1 at ! fir/ sight ( our =midable f9al ridge develop$ a #8spra9$ wri/4' ,x 0 a =lorn hope1 :i* put an end to our association1 & prov$ ! d[nw>d turn+-po9t 9 a promis+ c>e]4 ,i mu/ in/ance "o o!r weakness t comes into special prom95ce 9 ! biv\ac or hut "u ! influ5ce ( o!r guides or ( ^? fluctuations 9 mood to :i* ! peasant is v subject 9 ! prospect ( "s =midable climb4 ,v few guides "k any?+ ab\t #8wea!r' except a few local signs4 ,b !y w make use ( _! suppos$ in/9ctive k to ! utmo/ if !y feel lazy 9 ! morn+ or n]v\s ( ! und]tak+4 ,possibly ! #8head-%ak+' is half g5u9e1 z a guide has a *ild's fe> ( two ?+s *iefly3 a cl\d & a fall+ /one4 ,b ! lead] mu/ n be impos$ ^u1 & mu/ use 8 own judgm5t ab\t />t+4 ,i rememb] once 9 a biv\ac1 lit]ally "u a huge /one1 beside ! ,m] de ,glace1 twice s5d+ out q a dec5t guide to see if 8 #8cl\d-bank' 0 ?9n+4 ,on ! ?ird occasion1 :5 ,i ask$ if !re 7 really no />s visible1 he murmur$ dr[sily1 8,only two n[10 & snuggl$ d[n to sleep aga94 ,x is unnecess>y to add t ! guide & ! p>ty 7 waft$ out ( ! gte on ! w9d ( ! unspok5 & ate _! breakfa/ on ! run4 ,i recall ^! in/ances only to emphasize ! necessity ( a close obs]vation ( "*1 s t flaws may be discov]$ 9 "t1 z well z ! weak po9ts %ield$ pa/ ! times ( contact ) ext]nal influ5ces4 ,sid5ote3 ,on ! ,m\nta94 ,once ! climb is begun ! task ( %eph]d+ is simpl]2 !re are only ! effects ( unt[>d or premature m\nta9 incid5t ^u mood to gu>d aga9/4 ,b ev5 s1 occasionally1 ! effect ( o!r p>ties on ! same climb may h to be reckon$ )4 ,_! pres5ce (t5 ext5ds ! debilitat+ effect ( #8hut' prompt+s to ! m\nta9 side4 ,if ! feeble/ ( sev]al p>ties on a m\nta9 turns back1 x requires a s]i\s ef=t to prev5t panic1 & ! fe> ( lat] valley criticism1 f induc+ a g5]al retreat4 ,to relieve y\r guide ( ?is *ance y may h to make x v audibly app>5t to ! o!r p>ties t x is y1 & n he1 :o are insi/+ ^u ! advance4 ,simil>ly1 a guid$ p>ty ahead ( y1 :i* may happ5 to take ev5 an obvi\sly wrong r\te1 w ex]cise a p>alys+ attraction ^u y\r lead+ guide's m9d4 ,x is ov]p[]+ if ! two guides are acqua9t$4 ,once on a fam\s ridge ( ! greate/ ( ,swiss peaks1 :5 ! guide ( ! p>ty ahead ( u *ose ! traditional b1 on ! day1 ! m dang]\s ( two l9es1 ,i _h to say firmly t ,i %\ld retreat r ?an take ! risk1 be=e my own admirable guide c\ld %ake (f ! spell & cons5t to try ! demon/rably bett] alt]native r\te4 ,incid5tally ,i may add t we _h ! satisfaction ( sitt+ & wat*+ f a secure l$ge ! s5sational /ruggles ( ! o!r p>ty = fully half an h\r be=e !y caught u up aga94 ,on ! o!r h&1 if ! p>ty ahead is l$ by a #8=eign]' or enemy guide1 y may h to look out = ! repell5t effect ^u y\r own guide1 :o w be only too ready to break (f on any freaki% alt]native l9e :i* may give him ! *ance ( cutt+ out 8 rival 9 front4 ,^! cases illu/rate a p>ticul> dang]2 b z a rule once ! climb+ comm5ces ! good guide is be/ left z mu* z possible to 8 free devices4 ,y\r au?ority mu/ enc\rage ! idea t 9 tactics ! te*nical exp]t's responsibility becomes great]1 & t 9 details ! lead+ guide conducts ! op]ations )\t "q or diss5t4 ,sid5ote3 ,f9e ,%ades4 ,if he has be5 judici\sly nurs$ on to 8 m\nta91 a good lead+ guide w be equal1 unaid$1 to all ord9>y situations & to exceptional ones accord+ to 8 ability4 ,b if y\r climb proves to belong ?r\gh\t to ! exceptional class1 y mu/ rema9 on ! wat*1 ready to employ 9 "t ^? f9e %ades ( managem5t to :i* alone n]ves & muscles work+ ne> _! limit respond4 ,a good fir/ man on ! rope1 guide or amateur1 is always an emotional subject1 ?\gh 8 self-control may conceal 8 inw>d fluctuations4 ,! lead+ guide's mood 9 ! e>ly morn+ h\rs ( climb+ w frequ5tly be cl\d$ by 8 s5se ( ! s]i\s "w be=e him & ! ?reat ( responsibility x %ad[s = him4 ,if difficult problems pres5t !mselves be=e he has w>m$ to 8 "w1 z !y are apt to d on a sev]e climb1 or be=e he has realiz$ ! support ( ! h>moni\s work+ ( ! p>ty beh9d him1 8 mood w exagg]ate _! difficulty & ! disc\rag+ prospect ( a long day ( su* problems4 ,if y c !n lift him ov] ! crucial po9t )\t risk to y\r p>ty1 y\r pa9s & /udy w h be5 well ju/ifi$4 ,y mu/ n give direct ord]s4 ,a guide :o w hurl himself aga9/ any?+ because he is told to1 aga9/ 8 judgm5t1 is a bad guide1 or at lea/ "o ^: temp] & discretion are spoil$ = ! day4 ,nor mu/ y abuse ! p[] ( indirect sugge/ion :i* y\r /udy ( y\r man w h giv5 y4 ,a guide's in/9ct on te*nical po9ts is an invaluable asset1 & x may be h>m$ if x is tamp]$ ) tactlessly4 ,y mu/ fir/ make up y\r own m9d :e!r 8 objection to proce$ is really bas$ on g5u9e in/9ct or is only ! outcome ( a depress$ & cumulative mood4 ,& "h y\r k ( ! man & y\r obs]vation ( 8 condition be=e ! crisis w help y ev5 m ?an y\r exam9ation ( ! ob/acle :i* is *eck+ him4 ,once y h decid$ t 8 objection is only due to mood1 x is y\r bus9ess to br+ him into ! "r key aga92 to make him feel t1 :ile y realize ! s]i\sness ( ! problem1 yet y\r judgm5t1 unbias$ by ! infection ( gloom1 is *e]fully confid5t t 8 skill c surm\nt x4 ,undue *e]fulness or obvi\sly pret5d$ confid5ce w defeat y\r object by m]ely mak+ him ?9k t y are out ( t\* ) ! situation or unaw>e ( ! gravity ( ! decision4 ,bo? words & tone1 !re=e1 ne$ v delicate *oos+4 ,! cl\ds mu/ be giv5 bo? "t & a con/ant g5tle impulse to cle> (f4 ,once ! black h\r is pa/1 z x passes ) mo/ m5 z !y w>m to _! "w1 ! po9t comes1 soon] or lat]1 :5 e good guide cat*es fire4 ,! amateur c !n relax mu* ( 8 att5tion ev5 on a sev]e climb1 enjoy ! fun & att5d to ! light] problems ( m]e climb+4 ,a day comes back to m9d1 ! occasion ( a fir/ asc5t ( ! sn[ slopes ( a fam\s peak1 :5 wea!r & ev5+ company _h alike contribut$ to oppress ! wayw>d spirits ( a peasant guide4 ,e =m ( inducem5t1 #8exploration1' #8a ne>] view = ! next day1' _h _h to be employ$ 9 turn 9 ord] to coax a gloomy morn+ progress up ! glaci]1 ov] ! b]gs*rund & up ! initial ridges4 ,& !n sudd5ly1 & fully a ?ird ( ! way up ! asc5t1 a ,napoleonic attitude ) out/ret*$ arm appe>$ 9 silh\ette aga9/ ! sn[ wall above u4 ,we he>d a *e]ful %\t1 8,:o foll[s me to-day w rea* ! summit60 ,& we knew t all ne$ = nurs+ on our "p _h end$ = ! day4 ,rememb] t h[ev] well ?+s are go+1 un=ese5 circum/ances may always upset hum\r1 & t y mu/ be always look+ out = its effects4 ,y h to br+ y\r p>ty up1 = ea* r\nd ) ! un=ese51 at ! top ( its climb+ =m4 ,a guide 9 ! lead mu/ be reliev$ ( all anxiety ab\t ! p]=mance ( ! re/ ( ! p>ty2 8 judgm5t ( ! succe$+ problems mu/ be kept cle> ( bias f extrane\s consid]ations4 ,he mu/ feel t ! :ole p>ty is 9 tune beh9d him1 & is confid5t 9 him1 or he w n be free to put out 8 be/ p[]s4 ,mood or circum/ance may1 h[ev]1 on occasion prove too mu* = y\r managem5t1 & !n y ne$ n hesitate to take ov] ! lead y\rself = a :ile4 ,x is well = ?is1 & = _m o!r reasons1 to h accu/om$ y\r guides to ! idea ( y\r lead+4 ,:5 ?is extreme c\rse is tak51 x %\ld be done quietly &1 if possible1 "u pretext ( try+ "s alt]native l9e ( y\r own4 ,s soon z ! guide's hum\r readju/s itself1 z x w all ! quick] = wat*+ y\r mi/akes1 ! lead c be z quietly surr5d]$ aga94 ,i rememb] a new asc5t we made ^u a =midable rock peak4 ,our excell5t guides1 ov]aw$ by ! t]rific ?reat ( ! sections f> above u1 tri$ prematurely to prove ! :ole climb impossible1 by tak+ a fancy l9e e>ly 9 ! day :i* obvi\sly l$ to a hopeless impasse4 ,z x is ! huntsman's privilege & duty1 :5 sc5t is ov]run1 to make ! ca/ & lift ! pack on to ! "r l9e aga91 we ex]cis$ x f ! tail-end ( ! rope4 ,our ultimate success help$ u to a mutual =getfulness ( ! incid5t4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,t]ms ( ! ,association4 ,if y are climb+ alone ) a guide1 ( c\rse ei!r goes fir/ z may be conv5i5t at ! mom5t4 ,?is %\ld be tak5 = grant$4 ,:e!r ! y\r p>ty conta9s guides or n1 y %\ld always insi/ on tak+ y\r %>e ( lead+ & enc\rage o!r amateurs to take !irs4 ,x is good = y\r climb+ to d s1 x is f> ! be/ fun1 & x promotes a prop] foot+ ) ! guides4 ,a guide has no prescriptive "r to ! pleasante/ place4 ,only :]e ! climb+ is difficult1 or dang] is involv$1 ! be/ man mu/ lead2 & ?is may mean m usually ! guide4 ,x is a mi/ake = an amateur1 h[ev] brilliant1 to let himself appe> to be compet+ ) a guide on 8 own gr\nd4 ,! guide w always be politely admir+ ( brilliance1 b he is really only conc]n$ to "k t an amateur climbs safely1 & equally safely all ! day4 ,! common good is bett] s]v$ by y\r appe>+ to take 8 sup]iority 9 ! te*nical field = grant$1 & conf9+ y\r att5tion to des]v+ ! comm& y int5d to ex]cise 9 ! field ( g5]al responsibility4 ,x is a sign t y are beg9n+ to take y\r prop] position1 9 y\r own sph]e1 :5 y\r guides cease to assure y t y are climb+1 l a #8*amois' or a #8devil4' ,b a "y m\nta9e] is apt to feel injur$ t guides take s mu* long] 9 le>n+ to pay him ! fir/ real complim5t1 ! admission by _! acts & n _! spee* t he has le>n$ to g #8safely4' ,i rememb] 9 e>ly days bitt]ly res5t+ be+ coddl$ on a %ort rope d[n an ice slope by two guides ) :om ,i _h j be5 %>+ a s5sational day1 dur+ at lea/ f\r h\rs ( :i*1 if ,i _h slipp$1 no ef=t ( !irs c\ld h sav$ ! p>ty4 ,a guide1 until he is tra9$ by a good manag]1 nev] unle>ns ! mo/ deep-root$ tradition ( 8 ca/e4 ,= him all amateurs alike rema9 ! amateur1 t is1 a ?+ to be wat*$ ov]1 s long z ! m\nta9 rema9s a m\nta91 t is1 a ?+ up :i* ! guide leads4 ,= ye>s aft] he has =gott5 to bo!r ab\t 8 amateur on difficult places1 :]e he has o!r ?+s to ?9k ab\t1 a return to famili> gr\nd w recall to him ! famili> tradition1 & he w beg9 aga9 to coddle 8 employ] exasp]at+ly4 ,& = seasons aft] he has unle>n$ ?is habit1 a guide w cont9ue to pref] ! #8back+ up1' 9 a bad place1 ( a second-rate pr(essional to t ( ! be/ amateurs 9 ! ,alps4 ,p]haps ?is is natural2 ! two natives c calculate on ea* o!r's actions & reactions m closely _! co-op]ation mu/ always be m in/9ctive & consequ5tly m reassur+ to "o ano!r4 ,an amateur mu/ be cont5t fir/ to /udy ! trade-w9ds ( m\nta9e]+1 & !n gradually try 8 w+s on ! m complicat$ cross-curr5ts ( its direction4 ,once he is qualifi$ = 8 duties z manag]1 8 old guides by habit1 & any new guides by in/9ct or discov]y1 w soon conc$e him 8 full au?ority4 ,) ?is z 8 fulcrum he w f9d x1 9 due "t1 easy to secure t bo? he & o!r amateurs ( 8 p>ty %all be left free to d _! own %>e ( ! climb+ on _! own climb+ m]its1 & only receive assi/ance 7or :at is int5d$ = x7 :5 !y ask = x4 ,:5 ^! t]ms are e/abli%$ x is happi] = ! p>ty1 & f> happi] z a p]man5t tea*+ = ! guides4 ,i 0 puzzl$ once to read 9 a hut book a notice t = ! ?ird ye> 9 succession ! same g5tleman _h be5 =c$ to turn back by #8w9d' at ! same po9t ( an easy asc5t1 al?\gh ! book %[$ t on ! same day o!r climbs on ! m\nta9 _h gone well4 ,!n we rem>k$ t he _h employ$ ! same two guides on ea* occasion4 ,!y 7 e>n+ _! money1 app>5tly1 )\t undue ex]tion or int]f]5ce 9 a p]man5t engagem5t4 ,possibly !y may ev5 h discov]$ t !re is a humor\s value 9 repetition6 ,a few ye>s lat] ,i he>d ( !m z m5 ( #8unmanageable /iff-neck$ness1' & out ( employm5t4 ,b climb]s w "k ( c\ntless in/ances2 & we mu/ all h se5 ! village /reet trag$ies ( once fam\s guides drift+ d[nw>d to *ance engagem5ts1 trad+ on _! names1 irascible ) _! few patrons1 /ill effici5t1 b spoil$1 arrogant & accompli%+ no?+4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,r>e ,crisis4 ,no matt] h[ well ! guide's temp]am5t is analys$ & 8 moods manag$1 e guide's n]v\s sy/em has a snapp+ po9t1 :5 self-control may be mom5t>ily lo/4 ,z ,i h said :5 speak+ ( amateurs1 to "s x comes soon]1 to o!rs lat]2 b to ! be/ guides1 z to m5 ( little or less education1 x w come soon] ?an to ! be/ amateurs4 ,! crisis is a disagreeable "o1 & v r>e4 ,a ?und]/orm1 ) its dang]s t _c be met by any skill1 may produce x2 a sudd5 fall ( rocks or ice :]e !y _h no "r to fall2 or ! %ock ( a realization ( imm95t p]il4 ,x w be always ! unexpect$4 ,! amateur is !n happy :o has nev] weak5$ 8 influ5ce by mak+ mi/akes outside 8 prov9ce or by exhibitions ( 8 own temp] or lack ( self-control4 ,if he has nev] giv5 himself away "u pressure ( %ock or disappo9tm5t or fatigue1 !n ! great] ! crisis ! m effective w be 8 p]sonal int]v5tion4 ,a few %>p words1 />tl+ b n angry1 w prove ) all good guides suffici5t re/orative4 ,i h _h occasion ev5 to pay (f an hy/]ical %\t+ guide on a m\nta9 side be=e 8 fr5zy1--! result ( an uncontroll$ temp] & sudd5 panic1--yield+ !n to ! fe> ( a solit>y desc5t1 di$ d[n suffici5tly to make x safe to take him on ! rope aga94 ,he 0 a bad guide1 & dismiss$ on t acc\nt4 ,b = ! case ( a good guide :o has be5 tri$ too highly1 ! mom5t>y correction w suffice1 & ! incid5t %\ld n aft]w>ds be recall$4 ,i "k ( no o!r occasion :i* %\ld ju/ifiably tempt u into %>p spee* or ! exhibition ( direct au?ority dur+ an actual climb4 ,! secret ( ma9ta9+ control is nev] to appe> to claim x4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,rew>d4 ,9 effect1 an amateur is free n[ to take or n to take guides 9 accordance ) circum/ances & n ) tradition4 ,if he engages !m1 except z a beg9n]1 x mu/ be on ! t]ms ( m\nta9e] ) m\nta9e] & n t\ri/ ) pr(essional4 ,he %\ld get to "k !m z human be+s1 make fri5ds ( !m if he keeps !m1 & treat !m ) ! same tact z 8 o!r fri5ds4 ,9 addition he has to give !m ! increas$ /udy & sup]vision :i* primitive temp]am5ts1 unkn[n antec$5ts1 probable prejudices & possible p]sonal value to 8 p>ty des]ve4 ,8 rew>d w be to f9d t 8 guid$ p>ty rema9s free f _m ( ! anxieties & disappo9tm5ts ) :i* o!r guid$ & guideless p>ties h to put up4 ,he w f9d t ! mod]n guide1 if he has little ( ! demigod ( la/-c5tury tradition1 has ! pot5tialities ( any :olesome1 hill-br$ human be+4 ,he w also1 if he has des]v$ x1 discov] t ! bett] a man1 guide or amateur1 becomes z a m\nta9e]1 ! clos] he gr[s z a companion2 until a po9t is rea*$1 9 ! fell[%ip ( great asc5ts1 :5 ! di/9ction altoge!r disappe>s4 ,,*apt] ,,iv ,,rock ,,climb+ ,rocks are ! framework ( m\nta9s4 ,rock climb+ is a joy\s me?od ( gett+ up attractive m\nta9s by attractive ways4 ,b x is possible to be a rock climb] )\t becom+ a m\nta9e]4 ,x is possible to e>n a reputation by lead+ climbs ^u "s special type ( rock )\t becom+ ev5 a good rock climb]4 ,! good rock climb] is ! man :o moves equably1 spe$ily & safely up or d[n s\nd & uns\nd rock1 ( e description & ( any degree ( difficulty t is )9 8 physical p[]s4 ,a man :o kn[s rocks & _! /ructure & c climb !m ) und]/&+ is pot5tially a good m\nta9e]4 ,he has opportunities n[ ( p]fect+ 8 craft :i* did n exi/ = 8 pr$ecessors4 ,ea* succe$+ climb+ g5]ation c ent] )\t ef=t or loss ( "t ^u an inh]itance ( skill & k t its pr$ecessors won ) t5tative ef=t & sl[ discov]y4 ,dur+ ! la/ tw5ty-five ye>s ! /&>d ( difficulty t c be accompli%$ ) ease & safety by a rock climb] ( ability has gone up "s #be p] c5t4 ,to ?is rapid advance ! lit]ature publi%$ on ! subject has contribut$4 ,! majority ( climbs h n[ be5 *>t$ & describ$2 _! difficulties c be all[$ =4 ,! my/]y & unc]ta9ty ( new discov]y affect+ ! m9d1 & ! novelty ( new adju/m5ts impos$ ^u ! body are alike elim9at$ z complications f ! fair field ( a*ievem5t4 ,! climb] goes out to meet purely objective difficulties1 ) 8 m9d in=m$ & expectant & 8 body tra9$ & anticipat+4 ,! novice1 or ! exp]t 9 a di/rict new to him1 guid$ by 8 read+1 c economize 8 n]ve & muscle = ! m difficult passages1 &1 f9d+ !m ! easi] = ?is re/ra9t1 c pass on to always m exact+ attempts ) pleasurable assurance4 ,! pres5ce 9 ! hills ( an increas+ numb] ( m5 :o climb well & confid5tly has _h ev5 m effect ?an ! publication ( books & p]iodicals4 ,direct$ by advice1 & by :at is /ill m effective1 by imitation1 ! beg9n] is no long] 9 dang] ( gett+ into habits ( false positions & ( false judgm5t1 :e!r ( ! angles or ( ! "* ( rock holds4 ,he gr[s up 9 an atmosph]e :]e ^! matt]s are common k1 & he le>ns almo/ unconsci\sly4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,!ory ( ! ,developm5t4 ,rock climb+ 9 our mod]n s5se is a "y craft4 ,! e>ly m\nta9e]s 7 drawn to ! hills prim>ily by ! attraction ( exploration4 ,_! pr9cipal int]e/ 0 to f9d ! be/ r\te to ! summits4 ,! sn[ slopes1 to :i* ! peasants & hunt]s :o l$ ! e>ly asc5ts _h be5 = g5]ations accu/om$1 pres5t$ ! natural means4 ,:]e sn[ fail$ & angles grew /eep] !y took to ! ice walls & ice c\loirs1 s9ce to _! develop+ sn[ te*nique ice pres5t$ a m famili> alt]native ?an rock4 ,/eep1 b>e rocks 7 incid5tally negotiat$1 b n f *oice4 ,! /eep]1 sn[less rock peaks :i* (f]$ no royal sn[ r\tes 7 ?us naturally left to ! la/1 & :5 ! succe$+ g5]ation wi%$ to f9d new outlet = ! satisfaction ( its own desire = discov]y1 x _h to inv5t a new rock te*nique to solve ! new problems4 ,! hi/ory has be5 ! same 9 e =m ( sport or ( adv5ture :i* has _h ! movem5ts ( ! body & _! p]fect+ 9 skill z basis4 ,! passion = ! sport t ! _m may possess eng5d]s 9 ! few :o are bett] physically or n]v\sly gift$ a desire to height5 & prolong ! s5sation & to ex]cise _! improv+ skill ^u always m difficult v>iations4 ,to ! love ( w&]+ 9 ! m\nta9s1 %>$ by all m\nta9e]s1 is add$ ! endur+ pleasure to any heal?y man ( f9d+ occasion = a high] self-realization1 a m vital physical consci\sness4 ,! evolution has be5 cont9u\s2 ! g5]ations1 ( c\rse1 ov]lap1 & ! diff]5t phases ( m\nta9 en?usiasm c /ill f9d _! sev]al satisfaction4 ,= ! explor] !re are /ill ! untrodd5 ranges4 ,= ^? ) means & "t suffici5t to indulge _! love ( climb+ among ! great ,alps1 ! old sn[ ways ( ! m\nta9s /ill rema9 suffici5t 9 numb] & 9 s5sation4 ,b = ! ev]-increas+ numb] ( m5 :om circum/ances limit$ to ! less] hills ( our own isl&s or to ! l[] alp9e ranges1 ! grass & sn[ ways began to prove too unexcit+ z _! novelty became exhau/$1 & ! rock peaks & ! %e] rock faces ( ! ,lake ,fells1 ,skye or ! ,dolomites (f]$ a new temptation4 ,rock surface1 unlike sn[1 prov$ to be almo/ inf9ite 9 its v>iety & inexhau/ible 9 its (f] ( novel r\tes4 ,consequ5tly ! developm5t ( difficult rock climb+ 9 sn[less regions l our own proce$$ at a pace some:at out ( proportion to ! leisurely progress ( ! art among ! ,briti% frequ5t]s ( ! great] ,alps4 ,ev5 among ! guides x 0 only ! few1 fir$ by emulation or educat$ by _! employ]s1 :o ma9ta9$ a rate ( improvem5t at all comm5surate ) t :i* 0 tak+ place 9 ! av]age /&>d ( amateur home rock climb+2 ,i am speak+ "h purely ( difficulty & prim>ily ( asc5ts4 ,9 ! art ( cont9u\s climb+1 & ( climb+ d[n1 ! comp>ison1 z w appe> lat]1 0 n equally to ! home climb]'s advantage4 ,! pr9cipal ag5t 9 ! *ange has be5 ! /udy ( ! possibilities ( balance 9 motion1 & ! tra9+ successively ( ! foot1 ! h& & ! eye to secure a complete rhy?mic movem5t ( ! body :ile climb+4 ,! primitive belief1 if we may make a d$uction f ! practice & recitals ( e>ly m\nta9e]s1 0 t ! body c\ld n be balanc$ ) safety unless ! wid? ( ! foot _h firm /&+4 ,sn[ 0 f\nd to satisfy ?is condition once ! /udy ( sn[ craft _h taught guides & amateurs h[ to fa%ion a level tread1 no matt] :at ! angle ( ! sn[ slope4 ,:5 ! p]iod ( ! great ice climbs foll[$1 9 ! hi/orical ord] ( exploration1 x became m]ely a "q ( discov]+ h[ to fa%ion a correspond+ security ( /ep 9 ice4 ,:5 ! new impulse develop$ = ! und]tak+ ( r\tes ^u ! rock peaks1 a simil> bread? & com=t ( tread 7 at fir/ look$ =4 ,consequ5tly ! rock asc5ts ( =m] days 7 limit$ 9 numb] & "* by ?is condition4 ,( ! h&s little acc\nt 0 tak54 ,a walk+ balance 0 ! only rhy?m recogniz$4 ,we might almo/ call ?is ! #8walk+ epo*4' ,b ! new g5]ation1 inh]it+ an always improv+ m\nta9 craft1 ) a new goal 9 view1 c\ld n long rema9 at ?is po9t4 ,! problem ( f9d+ s\nd r\tes up ! rock angles ( unexplor$ peaks & faces _h to be fac$4 ,! great gullies or rifts 9 ! rock walls (f]$ ! fir/ natural l9es ( temptation4 ,! %elt] ( _! enclos+ walls promis$ a com=table reassurance to n]ve1 & ev5 m to ! eye1 z yet unaccu/om$1 z ,i h %[n else:]e1 to ! direct view into empty space1 above1 bel[ & on ei!r side1 )\t its cu/om>y re/-po9t = ! assurance ( balance4 ,s began :at may be call$ ! #8gully epo*1' a cul-de-sac :i* = a decade %ut 91 ) a few exceptions1 all ! ef=ts ( our rock climb]s4 ,s9ce ! level tread c\ld r>ely be obta9$ 9 ^! gullies1 body1 %\ld]s & arms 7 all br\ght into ! s]vice1 9 ord] t ! feet might /ill be able to jam aga9/ ! requisite bread? ( foo?old1 ev5 ?\gh 9 su* places tilt$ at an angle4 ,at angles :]e ^! slop+ foo?olds fail$1 ! /emm+ ( ! %\ld]s & knees betwe5 ! v]tical rock walls on ei!r side 0 discov]$ to be a means ( bridg+ gaps on ! climb t w\ld be=e h pass$ = insurm\ntable4 ,! sub/itute ( ?is r\gh friction & purely muscul> ef=t = ! walk+ balance ( ! explor+ age ex]cis$ = a "t a re/rict+ influ5ce1 al?\gh ! fre] use x made ( ! body 9 g5]al prep>$ ! way = a bett] tradition4 ,climb]s got up /eep] cliffs by _! new me?ods at ! sacrifice ( _! education z m\nta9e]s4 ,by specializ+ on a conv5i5t accid5t ( m\nta9 ar*itecture1 "o :i* cramp$ _! outlook & left !m little opportunity = a*iev+ rhy?m or p]fect+ balance1 !y ev5 unle>n$ some?+ ( ! g5]al m\nta9e]+ k :i* _h be5 acquir$ by ! wid]1 mild] practice ( _! pr$ecessors4 ,x 0 ?is dep>ture1 ) its some:at clamor\s record1 t introduc$ ! p]iod ( wide/ sep>ation betwe5 ! old s*ool ( classical alp9e m\nta9e]s & ! comm5c+ s*ool ( isl& rock climb]s1 & :i* br\ght ^u ! latt] ! bla/ (1 n unm]it$1 #8grease-pol>iz$' criticism1 t /ill :isp]s spasmodically & ar*aically4 ,x deep5$ ! rift t dur+ ?is epo* ! great] numb] ( fir/ asc5ts ( ! cliffs 9 ,engl& & ,wales 7 made by means ( ^? entic+ gullies4 ,= ! classical m\nta9e]s1 tra9$ 9 ! ,alps1 :5 !y took an occasional holiday 9 ! ,lakes or ,skye1 look$ *iefly = ! class ( climb+ :i* mo/ closely recall$ ! v>i$ types ( ridges to ^: /ructure !y _h be5 accu/om$ 9 ,switz]l&4 ,_! successors1 ! ,fell climb]s1 lack+ _! alp9e tra9+1 yield$ to ! temptation ( unexplor$ gullies1 & = ye>s enclos$ our home climb+ 9 ^! uncom=table *annels4 ,wales1 ) less pot5t climb]s1 foll[$ ! example4 ,b ,wales1 ) few] gullies :]e9 to w9 fame1 w\ld appe> to h be5 ! qu>t] :]e ! fir/ bid 0 made = fre$om4 ,almo/ simultane\sly a simil> *ange ( view 0 tak+ place among ! rock peaks ( ! ,ea/]n ,alps4 ,gullies are ! natural l9es = ! desc5t ( /ones1 wat] & sn[ r ?an = ! asc5t ( human be+s4 ,( _! nature #8faults' 9 ! s\nd /ructure ( ! cliffs1 intrusions ( s(t] rock ^: weakness wat] has discov]$1 _! surviv+ walls pres5t an undue proportion ( uns\nd rock4 ,^! objections1 comb9$ ) ! gradual exhau/ion ( _! temptation z new asc5ts1 ev5tually =c$ our climb]s to escape f _! sunless recesses & to adju/ _! me?ods to less re/rict+ requirem5ts4 ,! fir/ impulse came f a few individuals ^: exceptional physical advantages l$ to _! discov]y t !y c\ld tru/ to _! f+]s z securely z to ! full tread ( _! feet or ! jam ( _! bodies4 ,! discov]y enabl$ !m to attempt places :]e !re 7 no conta9+ walls to be reli$ ^u z support = ! body if ! feet fail$--problems su* z wide-angl$ corn]s & ev5 :at w\ld n[ be call$ slab climbs4 ,f+] & h& holds 9 _! turn became ev]y?+2 footwork 0 neglect$4 ,to "s expon5ts ! feet 7 useful only z auxili>ies1 scrap$ d[nw>d indiscrim9ately ^u ! rocks to give "s extra propulsion4 ,x 0 ! epo* ( #8grip'-climb+4 ,its m]it1 ap>t f f9e individual a*ievem5ts1 0 t1 9 its turn1 x set ! succe$+ g5]ation free to tru/ itself m confid5tly on to ! op5 ribs & expos$ rock faces4 ,b>e slabs :i* _h h>dly be5 look$ at 7 !n f\nd to be cov]$ ) firm holds1 ^u :i* ! toe or ! side ( ! boot c\ld /& z firmly & advance f> m rapidly2 :ile h&s & eyes 7 free to assi/ !m to an ext5t unkn[n be=e4 ,! balance ( ! body 9 cont9u\s motion above ! feet 01 z x 71 r$iscov]$1 & an upright position became aga9 possible4 ,! h&s return$ to _! prop] function ( aids to ! balance1 & ! feet1 climb+ 9 natural positions1 became aga9 ( pr9cipal importance4 ,) ! discov]y t ! und]ly+ pr9ciple ( all climb+ movem5t is rhy?m1--a rhy?m ( ! :ole body & n only ( ! legs1 z 9 walk+1--& t ! basis ( su* rhy?m is balance1 & n grip or /ride or /ruggle1 rock craft mov$ into its prop] place 9 ! =efront ( m\nta9e]+ qualifications4 ,su* 9 r\gh outl9e is ! hi/ory ( ! la/ eighty ye>s ( climb+ te*nique4 ,we mu/ all[ = mu* ov]lapp+ ( ! epo*s 9 s %ort a p]iod1 & = _m notable individual exceptions2 b 9 ! ma9 ?is summ>y repres5ts :]e we 7 & :]e we are1 & :at happ5$ on ! way4 ,9 classify+ ! /ages ( our climb+ progress into epo*s or comp>tm5ts1 ,i am do+ no inju/ice to ! a*ievem5ts ( ! pa/4 ,a *ronicl] mu/ always face ! dilemma :e!r to say t ! great man by 8 example produces ! g5]al *ange ( practice 9 ! next g5]ation1 or :e!r to class him z ! conspicu\s anticipatory ripple ( a g5]al curr5t ( com+ *ange4 ,v "y climb]s may be (t5 only human 9 _! criticisms ( _! contempor>ies & 9 _! fa9t patronage ( ! collective pa/2 = no really en?usia/ic m\nta9-lov] ev] 9 8 he>t believes t anyone else has ev] own$ ! hills & discov]$ climb+ q 9 ! s5se t he has4 ,b e climb] :o is on ! way to becom+ a p]man5t m\nta9e] is a ke5 /ud5t ( m\nta9 hi/ory1 & ! s]vices r5d]$ to ! _w's m\nta9e]+ by ! cons]vation ( a body ( c5tral alp9e tradition are nev] likely to be und]rat$4 ,a good h\se rises high] ?an its f\ndations1 b x re/s ^u !m4 ,! m5 :o fir/ v5tur$ on ! disc\rag+ angles ( buttress & gully & cle>$ ! grass & e>? f small holds p]=m$ great] feats te*nical & moral ?an ! mo/ outside v>iations :i* may rema9 to be done on ! same rocks by _! pres5t-day successors4 ,!y _h ev]y?+ aga9/ !m1 ev5 ! atmosph]e ( _! g5]ation4 ,!y n only l$ ! way to ! /eep rocks2 !y />t$ ! assault ^u degrees & v>ieties ( difficulty t =c$ ^u _! successors ! cultivation ( ! sup]ior te*nique :i* !y n[ enjoy4 ,! m\nta9e]+ _w has a t5aci\s memory2 we *]i% ! names & exploits ( ! h]oic age2 ! feet ( our gods 7 solidly %od1 & we w admit no clay to be visible ab\t !m b t :i* 0 hon\rably collect$ 9 _! /\t tramp+4 ,sid5ote3 ,balance ,climb+4 ,! *ange 9 /yle f epo* to epo* 0 a consid]able "o1 & x has n be5 br\ght to p]fection 9 sev]al climb+ g5]ations4 ,to acquire a balance rhy?m 9 motion ! :ole body has to le>n a habit ( cont9u\s simultane\s adju/m5ts4 ,bo? feet & h&s mu/ develop a v f9e s5sitiv5ess ( t\*1 s z to in=m u n only ( ! exact am\nt ( security ea* is contribut+ at ! mom5t1 b also--a diff]5t matt]--( ! value ( _! lev]age = initiat+ a fre% movem5t upw>ds4 ,accord+ to ^! messages ! balance is cont9u\sly adju/$1 s z to relieve or comp5sate any extremity t may require x4 ,! feet ne$ only a suffici5cy ( hold to c>ry ! weight ( ! body at :atev] angle x is be+ held 9 balance by ! h&s4 ,! h&s ne$ only t am\nt ( hold :i* w enable !m to keep ! body balanc$ :ile ! weight is be+ ?ru/ upw>d by ! feet4 ,! feet le>n to move inevitably on to holds no long] se51 b previ\sly select$ by ! eye4 ,simultane\sly1 ! eyes are already occupi$ 9 *oos+ ! next holds = h& & feet1 guid$ 9 _! *oice n only by ! comp5sat+ quality ( ! hold :i* ! balance at ! in/ant may dem& = "o or o!r ( ! f\r extremities1 b also by ! direction 9 :i* ! next movem5t c mo/ securely be made4 ,a sy/em ( cont9u\s comp5sations1 p>tly drawn f ! rhy?mic balance ( ! mov+ body1 p>tly f a corrective *oice ( succe$+ holds1 means a great sav+ ( ef=t = ! feet & h&s4 ,! walk+ rhy?m1 ( ! fir/ p]iod1 call$ = l>ge1 flat holds1 & !re=e = long /rides betwe5 !m4 ,betwe5 ea* hold ! c5tre ( gravity 0 ?us =c$ out insecurely4 ,! h&s1 :5 us$1 _h ! extra lab\r ( dragg+ ! weight inw>d aga9/ ! outw>d ?ru/ ( ! legs4 ,! ef=t & ! insecurity set a l[ limit to ! angle ( rock :i* c\ld be conv5i5tly asc5d$4 ,! grip habit1 ( ! middle p]iod1 dem&$ = its assurance %>p-edg$ cl+ holds1 su* z w\ld enable ! :ole lift+ movem5t to be execut$ by ! h&s alone4 ,! body 9 susp5sion 0 ?us wr5*$ inw>ds cont9u\sly1 & sight & balance 7 int]rupt$4 ,rhy?m on ei!r me?od became impossible4 ,on ! o!r h&1 a foot climb] :o climbs by balance or comp5sation appe>s to creep easily & cont9u\sly up ! mo/ sev]e slabs on an ev5 l9e4 ,8 mov+ foot r>ely lifts above ! knee ( 8 /ation>y leg1 = he has 8 balance fir/ to consid]1 & z he only ne$s small foo?olds at any angle to su/a9 x1 he c f9d !m at %ort] int]vals 9 great] abundance4 ,8 h&s feel ! almo/ imp]ceptible rugosities ( surface ) s5sitive f+]s1 t press z (t5 z !y cl+4 ,8 body moves upw>d1 sw++ out or 9 on a curve ( balance ) a/oni%+ fre$om1 z ! messages f h&1 eye & feet are collat$ & compli$ )4 ,a man 9 s\nd condition1 ) 8 n]ves & muscles tra9$1 c acquire ?is ma/]y ( balance 9 motion f> m easily ?an w\ld appe> :5 x is ?us set out4 ,8 body1 at re/1 in/9ctively assumes ! "r balance = a giv5 position4 ,he has only to tra9 8 eye to select holds ahead :i* w all[ ( a sequ5ce ( h>monic positions2 to tra9 8 in/9ct to imag9e be=eh& :at ^! positions w be2 & to tra9 8 body to move f ea* "o ( ^! positions to ! next1 9 balance & ) an ord]$ & unbrok5 rhy?m4 ,9 ?is ladd] ( mod]n te*nique ! fir/ rungs ( easi] progress h be5 ! relief to ! h&s & feet4 ,a fur!r /ep has be5 ! relief to ! knee1 & incid5tally to ! clo!s t cov] x4 ,x is n[ r>e to see a good climb] return ev5 f a week ( conflict ) t mo/ de/ructive ( all rock1 ! ,*amonix granite1 9 ! tatt]s ( tradition4 ,9 ,wales1 succe$+ ,mrs4 ,ow5s ne$ no long] 8m5d !m ) /uff ( v>i\s col\rs03 ! d>k returns = dec5cy's sake to ,z]matt or ,wasdale are adv5tures ( ! pa/4 ,ev5 ! /yle ( clo!s has some?+ alt]$ ) ! /yle ( climb+4 ,practis$ climb]s we> 9 all light] mat]ials1 *os5 = w9d & wat] purposes m ?an = an armadillo-l p[] ( resi/+ friction4 ,! *ange 9 ! knee is mo/ significant4 ,! arm\r plat+ ( ?icknesses has t5d$ to disappe>4 ,! knee is usually innoc5t ( pat*es & (t5 left1 9 ,tyrolese fa%ion1 uncov]$4 ,! *ange is due to our *ange 9 /yle4 ,:ile ! foot /ill dem&$ broad holds1 necess>ily f\nd at long] int]vals1 = its balance1 ! knee 0 con/antly 9 requisition = an int]m$iate pu% up4 ,:ile grip climb+ obta9$1 ! knee 0 m useful ?an ! foot to jam ) or to scrape d[nw>d aga9/ ! rocks4 ,x 0 also recomm5d$ = use 9 m\nta9e]+ manuals z a relief to ^? long /rides & arm-pulls6 ,n[ ! foot works = bo?4 ,! knee is kept 9 res]ve = cracks & rococo mantelpieces1 9 int]rupt$ climb+1 or = a friction hold on spaces ( smoo? slab to raise ! body ! few in*es necess>y to rea* new h&hold4 ,s9ce ! knee is useless ev5 on su* occasions unless x adh]es firmly1 ! bree*es %\ld n get dragg$ or torn4 ,9 cont9u\s climb+ x only s]ves u = light balanc+ t\*es1 :5 ! h&s are ne$$ else:]e4 ,yet ano!r /ep has be5 ! sett+ free ( ! eyes to p]=m _! prop] functions ( balanc+ & ( select+4 ,?is release has be5 ! ma9 factor 9 confirm+ ! rapid improvem5t 9 mod]n te*nique4 ,dur+ ! walk+ era1 & /ill m dur+ ! gully & grip eras1 ! climb] _h g5]ally to take :at 8 h&s1 unaid$ by 8 eyes1 f\nd = him4 ,a climb] by balance or comp5sation keeps 8 head well away f ! rock1 at ! maximum di/ance p]mitt$ by ! necessity ( keep+ 8 body 9 balance above 8 mov+ feet4 ,8 eye is almo/ un9t]rupt$ly free to trace out 8 g5]al l9e above1 to *oose imm$iate holds & to ex]cise1 ev5 z he moves1 a com=table & leisurely discretion4 ,he c see :at he is do+ all ! "t4 ,to take "o in/ance4 ,on v /eep rock t :i* has pass$ bel[ ! level ( ! knee is (t5 already out ( sight4 ,a man :o climbs convulsively1 ) 8 nose aga9/ ! rock1 has (t5 miss$ ! sight ( "s m9ute l$ge to "r or left ( 8 l9e :i* alone (f]s a foo?old f :i* 8 h&s c rea* above ! next b>e slab4 ,ev5 if he aft]w>ds f9ds x by ! grope ( 8 foot1 x is too late = 8 eyes to e/imate its security or %ape4 ,simil>ly1 he is unable to keep cont9u\s wat* ahead1 & may (t5 lose sight ( a l9e ( holds already m>k$ f bel[2 or he may ov]look altoge!r "s o!r easi] l9e ( holds :i* c\ld h be5 rea*$ by a timely div]g5ce to "r or left4 ,?us 8 *ances ( accompli%+ a difficult climb are incalculably dim9i%$4 ,& yet ano!r /ep has be5 ! economy 9 n]v\s & physical output4 ,rock climbs c n[ be repeat$ by ! av]age mod]n climb] ) only ab\t half ! ef=t !y co/ _! fir/ conqu]ors1 :o did !m by =ce ( he>t & muscle4 ,!y c keep1 consequ5tly1 m /r5g? 9 res]ve4 ,! int]rupt$ cont9uity ( our e>li] /ruggle /ep & grip hold involv$ a di/urbance ( ! balance & a break 9 ! cont9uity ( m5tal conc5tration4 ,! recov]y f e su* movem5t put an extra /ra9 ^u bo? muscle & n]ve4 ,9 ! re-/>t aft] ea* #8jam' position1 ) its absolute arre/ ( rhy?m ( all k9ds1 ! di/urbance 0 ev5 great]4 ,sev]e climb+ ( ! mod]n /&>d dem&s controll$1 cont9u\s movem5ts1 s t ! body's adju/m5ts may cont9ue automatically1 & t !re may be no int]ruption 9 ! co-op]ation ( n]ve & eye & bra94 ,! beg9n] mu/ expect to f9d t balance climb+ does n come to him z a fir/ in/9ct4 ,sw++ f ! h&s to e hold :i* may be visible1 & /ruggl+ & jamm+ ) ! re/ ( ! body anyh[1 s z to secure safety & impetus1 are ! primitive movem5ts prop] to self-pres]vation & common to all muscul> animals l m5 & monkeys4 ,mu* muscul> in/9ct has to be unle>n$ to ov]come ?is in/9ct1 :i* is ! reason t a?letes :o h accu/om$ !mselves to reliance ^u p>ticul> gr\ps ( muscles are g5]ally bad climb]s4 ,b !re is no m cramp+ fault ?an to yield to ! muscul> temptation1 & to cl+ or jam :5 x is n absolutely ess5tial to safety4 ,! rule holds good = easy or h>d rock1 s\nd or uns\nd4 ,! s5se ( balance 9 motion has to be acquir$1 or1 at ! beg9n+ ( ea* climb+ holiday1 recov]$4 ,! l9es ( communication betwe5 toe & f+] & eye1 ) ! bra9 z cle>+-/ation1 h to be op5$ up or reop5$4 ,! ability to comp5sate1 by ! balance ( ! body1 betwe5 h& & foot hold1 & to relate ! process to ! task ( select+ holds 9 anticipation ) ! eyes1 has to be acquir$ or rega9$4 ,movem5t has to become rhy?mic1 & n convulsive4 ,! s5se ( com=t or ease 9 p]=m+ individual movem5ts is ! te/ ( ! degree ( balance & rhy?m acquir$4 ,! consci\sness ( com=t 9 cont9u\s climb+ movem5t is ! assurance ( a develop$ /yle4 ,easy rock ridges1 ( suffici5t l5g?1 provide ! be/ comm5c+ practice4 ,on !m alone c practice rapid en\gh or cont9u\s en\gh be obta9$ to conv]t :at 9 ! comm5cem5t mu/ be sep>ate ef=ts1 ea* execut$ by a consci\s ef=t ( ! w1 into unconsci\s rhy?mic movem5t z ! habit ( ! body4 ,! adju/m5t ( ! poise ( ! body & ! judgm5t ( ! adju/m5t next requir$ mu/ become in/9ctive1 o!rwise an unexpect$ attitude =c$ ^u u by ! exig5cies ( ! holds may upset ! s5se ( com=t2 & ) ! com=t goes ! /yle2 & ) ! /yle goes ! security4 ,! feel+ ( confid5ce is our te/4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,individual ,/&>d4 ,if1 & ?is happ5s to ! mo/ exp]t :5 out ( tra9+1 a feel+ ( discom=t or mi/ru/ intrudes1 ev5 = a fla%1 we are climb+ beyond our /&>d4 ,!re is no error m fatal ?an ! assumption t because we h once done a p>ticul> climb or p]fect$ our skill to a p>ticul> rhy?m1 we c always & at once climb up to t /&>d aga9 or recov] our normal rhy?m4 ,x mu/ be repeat$ t ! /&>d ( difficult rock climb+ has n[ be5 =c$ up to a po9t t practically repres5ts ! limit ( human possibility4 ,if we may assume t !re is a m9imum ( h&hold or foo?old to :i* f+]s or toes h[ev] p[]ful or preh5sile c cl+1 & t !re is a maximum angle above :i* human /r5g? _c =ce its way up rocks by friction alone1 t m9imum & maximum h n[ be5 atta9$4 ,m5 ( abnormal physique1 confid5ce & endurance h ( rec5t ye>s p]fect$ _! individual rhy?m ( skill to ! po9t ( be+ able to asc5d )\t discom=t or viol5t ef=t rock climbs t pres5t ! maximum angle ) ! m9imum ( holds4 ,beyond t po9t lies1 n dang]1 :i* = ord9>y climb]s beg9s "s degrees e>li]1 b impossibility4 ,x is folly = beg9n]s or = ord9>y climb]s1 z x w\ld be folly = ^! m5 !mselves :5 !y 7 out ( practice1 to attempt su* climbs out ( m]e c\rage or consci\s fitness1 or because !y h he>d t !y are frequ5tly done4 ,:at "o man has done 9 climb+ e man _c d4 ,9 _m cases ! f9al conque/ ( ^! p>ticul> climbs has be5 due to "s accid5t ( abnormal rea* or o!r developm5t su* z no skill c\ld acquire1 sup]impos$ ^u a p]fection ( normal /yle4 ,if ! climbs seem to be repeat$ frequ5tly1 x is because1 ?\gh ! p>ties may be num]\s & v>i\s1 ! lead]s ( ^? p>ties rema9 few & ! same--m5 drawn f ! small gr\p ( ! sup]-climb]s4 ,aga91 ability to climb rocks ( ! mod]n exact+ /&>d is ev5 z mu* a matt] ( m5tal fitness z ( bodily fitness1 ( cont9uity 9 n]v\s control z ( physique4 ,an in/ant's failure ( w or confid5ce1 an in/ant's int]ruption 9 ! n]ve communications1 due to fatigue or ov]-t5sion1 w di/urb ! delicate adju/m5ts ( balance z fatally z a brok5 leg4 ,sev]al ( ! mo/ s]i\s accid5ts ( rec5t ye>s h be5 und\bt$ly due to mom5t>y susp5sions ( consci\sness1 breaks 9 ! n]ve communications1 produc$ by ov]-ex]tion ( ! n]ves z mu* z ( ! muscles4 ,be=e n]ve & s9ew are alike fit & 9 tra9+ !y c e/abli% no rhy?mic co-op]ation ) "o ano!r or ) ! bra94 ,& 9 ?is condition !y are all alike liable to error 9 e/imat+ ! am\nt ( ef=t or ( comp5sation !y c ju/ly expect f ea* o!r4 ,! pleasant cu/om ( association among climb]s has its drawbacks 9 ?is respect4 ,climb]s are greg>i\s1 if exclusive4 ,!y t5d to =m eclectic associations 9 c]ta9 c5tres at c]ta9 times4 ,!y re-=m into diff]5t p>ties "u ! same lead]s4 ,consequ5tly a numb] ( m5 may beg9 & climb = ye>s )\t arriv+ at an idea ( :at !y are individually wor?1 or ( :at w\ld be _! normal /&>d if left to !mselves4 ,!y may d a numb] ( ! sev]e/ asc5ts & discuss !m ) an equal confid5ce1 & yet rema9 ignorant ( :at progress !y h made 9 _! own /&>d ( p]=mance or 9 n]ve control4 ,a climb+ p>ty pools its ability & its confid5ce4 ,! long] & clos] its association1 ! less are its individuals consci\s ( h[ mu* !y contribute & h[ mu* !y draw f ! collective p[]4 ,a weak climb] may climb on "s su* rope ) satisfaction to himself & no obvi\s p]sonal inf]iority1 :ile he is draw+ all ! "t on ! common /ock contribut$ by 8 m capable associates4 ,a lead] simil>ly1 well back$ up by a good p>ty1 may get into ! way ( deceiv+ himself badly z to ! ext5t to :i* 8 secure p]=mance really d]ives f !m4 ,in/ances are n want+ ( ! trap ?is may become4 ,a weak or mod]ate climb] ?9ks he c lead a mod]ate p>ty up a climb :i* he may h done com=tably sev]al times ) 8 usual /rong p>ty ( fri5ds4 ,alone1 he gets into s]i\s difficulties4 ,a good lead]1 ov]-confid5t f ! habit ( always feel+ a s\nd p>ty beh9d him1 may attempt a difficult or famili> climb ) too l>ge a proportion ( novices on 8 rope4 ,! am\nt ( ability pool$ by ! p>ty beh9d him w no long] provide a m>g9 ( safety aga9/ accid5ts4 ,! slip ( "o w involve o!rs1 & 8 individual contribution ( skill _c be suffici5t to *eck ! disa/]4 ,no man is fit to lead on easy rocks until he kn[s exactly 8 own unaid$ normal /&>d4 ,no man is fit to lead on difficult rocks until he c gauge n only 8 normal /&>d1 b also1 accurately1 8 /&>d ( ! day4 ,! second is z important z ! fir/1 b x is almo/ univ]sally disreg>d$ 9 practice4 ,to lead rock climbs ( ! mod]n high /&>d ( difficulty dem&s a high degree ( initiative1 imag9ation & n]v\s =ce1 add$ to a suitable physique4 ,fir/-rate lead]s are1 !re=e1 9 a l>ge majority m5 ( highly /rung n]v\s temp]am5t2 !y are #8built on wires4' ,to h become great lead]s !y mu/ h le>n$ to dom9ate _! wires completely4 ,= su* m51 unusually aw>e ( _! normal /&>d1 x is all ! m difficult to consid] or all[ = accid5tal fluctuations 9 _! physical or n]v\s condition ( ! day4 ,b a p>ticul> climb may f9d ev5 !m ei!r out ( condition or suff]+ f an (f-day4 ,! (f-day feel+1 aris+ f c\ntless causes1 is "o f :i* all m\nta9e]s suff]2 ! m frequ5tly1 ! m n]v\s _! temp]am5t1 & !re=e ! m frequ5tly 9 ! case ( ?is type ( lead]4 ,if !y disreg>d its pres5ce or attempt to ov]tight5 _! wires to resi/ x1 !y run s]i\s risks4 ,! good climb] mu/ f9d comp5sation 9 ! k t ! m he p]fects 8 te*nique & rhy?m ( com=t1 ! less v>iation w he f9d 9 8 normal /&>d2 & ! bett] he kn[s 8 normal /&>d1 ! less difficulty w he f9d 9 det]m9+ ! fluctuations 9 8 /&>d ( ! day4 ,! climb] !n mu/1 f ! fir/1 le>n to e/imate 8 own p]=mance irrespective ( ! contribution made to x by ! re/ ( 8 p>ty4 ,sid5ote3 ,solit>y ,climb+4 ,to secure ?is self-k he ne$ n climb alone4 ,solit>y climb+ has its own delights3 ( indep5d5ce ( movem5t & ( remot5ess f ! :ims ( o!rs2 ( a m intimate appreciation ( beauties ( sight & s\nd & incid5t1 & ( a s5se ( almo/ p]sonal id5tification ) ! =ces ( nature1 9 _! visible activity ( movem5t & gr[? z 9 _! passive compliance ( l9e1 col\r & =m ) laws ( sl[] *ange4 ,! my/ical mom5ts 9 m\nta9e]+1 :i* are ! s\rce ( its fasc9ation = m5 ( intellect & imag9ation1 are f\nd m easily 9 solitude4 ,b ^! mom5ts are to be exp]i5c$ almo/ equally 9 solit>y rambl+ or walk+1 & al?\gh _! int5sity is increas$ by ! rhy?m ( climb+1 ! rhy?m ( m9d & n]ve & muscle work+ at ! same high t5sion to ! same deep tune1 yet ?is sup]lative indulg5ce is only excusable = ! supremely exp]t4 ,to climb alone a man mu/ "k 8 own measure2 he mu/ be confid5t t he c all[ = 8 /&>d ( ! day2 he mu/ re/rict 8 ambition to climb+ ( a class well bel[ ! utmo/ he c\ld manage ) a good rope beh9d him2 he mu/ all[ some?+ m = ! n]v\s effect ( solitude2 & he mu/ rememb] t all rock climb+ is subject to a l>ge numb] ( pure accid5ts1--a /ra9$ s9ew1 a fall+ /one1 or a break+ hold1--^: effects c be correct$ or at lea/ m9imiz$ by a unit$ p>ty1 b any "o ( :i* may prove fatal to a solit>y climb]4 ,if he is confid5t t he c make all ^! all[ances1 he may g alone on rock if he s desires4 ,! "q ( :at fur!r limits he ought to obs]ve out ( reg>d = ! appreh5sions ( o!rs1 8 own circum/ances or 8 relatively great] value 9 "s o!r sph]e1 is a matt] = private or dome/ic decision1 & is n = ! consid]ation ( m\nta9e]+ op9ion4 ,z concrete in/ances ( ! degree ( diff]5ce t %\ld be made1 ,i take a few examples f rock climbs famili> to ,briti% climb]s4 ,a man :o c\ld lead ! ,grpon or ! ,dru 7s f> z _! rocks are conc]n$7 w\ld be ju/ifi$ on 8 skill1 if he kept all ! conditions1 9 attempt+ all b ! mo/ sev]e ,lake or ,wel% climbs s+le-h&$4 ,a man ^: limit 9 lead+ a rope 0 ! rocks ( ! ,gant or ! ,mo9e1 or :o f\nd ! ,rqu9 fatigu+1 c\ld only safely und]take alone easy rock climbs1 ! or?odox ridges 9 ,skye1 ! mod]ate ,napes ridges1 ! buttresses ( ,tryfan & s on4 ,any man :o f\nd com=t 9 ! pres5ce ( ! rope1 ev5 beh9d him1 on su* ridges & buttresses z ^! la/1 %\ld nev] attempt1 :5 he is alone1 m ?an ! scrambl+ incid5tal to m\nta9 walk+4 ,f9i%$ exp]ts mu/ discov] _! own p]sonal code ( diff]5tiation4 ,!y h only to keep 9 m9d ! di/9ction betwe5 difficulty & dang]1 z climb]s "k x1 & to rememb] t to ! solit>y climb] e difficulty may be dang]\s 9 result4 ,i say no?+ "h ab\t solit>y climb+ on sn[ or ice4 ,beg9n]s d n come "u any ( ! categories :i* p]mit ( solit>y ef=t4 ,sid5ote3 ,initial ,practice4 ,! introduction to climb+ cu/om>ily inflict$ ^u novices is practice ^u s+le rocks1 l[ cliffs1 qu>ries & erratic b\ld]s1 ) or )\t ! aid ( a rope held f above4 ,?is #8b\ld]+1' or problem climb+1 may s]ve to discov] a tal5t or enc\rage an incl9ation1 b x is ( little use z comm5c+ practice4 ,! scrambles are %ort4 ,!y give no opportunity = a gr\ndwork 9 rhy?m or = balance 9 motion4 ,if !y are easy1 !y are done at once on ! head or ! heels1 & no "o ! bett]4 ,if !y are m difficult1 muscle c ei!r manage !m1--a bad error to comm5ce )1--or1 if muscle fails1 ! gr\nd close bel[ or ! rope close above deprives failure & success alike ( any tra9+ = ! n]ve or moral = ! memory4 ,_! real value is only = ! exp]t1 :o has le>n$ to treat e rock ) ! same respect1 be x ( five feet or ( five hundr$ feet4 ,!y make f9e rid]s ^u special propositions1 ( toe or f+] jo9t1 once we h ma/]$ ! g5]al pr9ciples2 b beg9n]s get m b5efit f easy1 cont9u\s ex]cises on ! simple rules--& ridges4 ,?is practice is be/ begun z a memb] ( a rop$ p>ty ( ab\t equal capacity1 & "u ! direction ( a lead] :o w only all[ ! rope to be us$ z a protection1 & n z a me?od ( traction4 ,! climb] is !n to a l>ge ext5t insur$ aga9/ ! consequ5ces ( 8 e>ly blund]s1 :i* w give him "s necess>y confid5ce2 he w get "s pr(it f wat*+ o!r me?ods1 & he c devote himself to work+ out 8 own /yle4 ,imitation1 consci\s or n1 w give him "r position1 & ! collective movem5t w infect him ) ! beg9n+s ( rhy?m4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,use ( ! ,foot4 ,sid5ote3 ,h>d ,soles4 ,9 balance climb+1 footwork mu/ be plac$ fir/4 ,= footwork on rock ! "r footge> ) ! "r sole is all-important4 ,if we we> a nail$ boot1 x %\ld be z light z is consi/5t ) /r5g? & ! weight ( ! climb]--t is1 ( ! lighte/ alp9e patt]n4#aj ,l>ge m5 (t5 l ! heavy iron-clad boot = ! impetus x gives to a long] sw+ on levels or d[nhill4 ,b ?is is no recomm5dation 9 asc5d+ rocks1 :]e ! weight ( ! boot alone1 s9ce x has to be lift$ & swung an indef9ite numb] ( ?\s& times a day1 is a wa/eful dra9 ^u ! leg muscles4 ,at ! same "t ! boot mu/ be /rong en\gh to protect ! foot aga9/ bruise or j> on all k9ds ( rugg$ surface1 & ! soles ?ick en\gh to be firm1 o!rwise 9 climb+ ) ! toe or ! side ( ! boot !re is unfair /ra9 ^u ! f9] fabric ( ! foot4 ,! welt1 = rock "w m especially1 %\ld n project1 z ?is increases ! /ra9 ^u foot & leg 9 toe & side-foot climb+4 ,a heavy welt$ boot or "o ) /iff lea!r upp]s cru%es ! foot & int]f]es ) its delicate s5se ( t\*4 ,! me?od ( nail+ ! boots is important4#aa ,rock climb]s pursue diff]5t fancies ( _! own3 "s pref] a d\ble l9e ( small nails close to ! edge1 = a bett] /ance on small l$ges2 "s dislike ! edge or w+ nails1 & pref] a s+le r[ ( small %>p heads2 & s on2 b ! *ief ?+ = rock is to make sure t ! edge-nails1 :atev] !y be1 are set well ap>t1 s z to give a r\gh cat*+ edge betwe5 ea* nail aga9/ a pull ei!r way4 ,on ! toe ?is sep>ation is n s imp]ative1 & !y c be set clos] toge!r = mutual protection & = a division ( ! /ra91 :i*1 9 _! case1 w *iefly be on ! back ( ! nail & n on its sides4 ,to edge ! boot ) ov]lapp+ nails1 :i* may become a smoo? b>1 is ineffective1 & ev5 m likely to produce a slip on rock ?an if ! sole 7 left altoge!r unprotect$4 ,"o good r\gh nail rightly driv5 9 & rightly plac$ is q en\gh to ensure a p]fectly safe /ance "u a well-balanc$ body2 & on mu* mod]n slab climb+ "o nail-hold is all t is s\ght or obta9$4 ,! neat] ! action ! few] ! nails ne$$4 ,sid5ote3 ,s(t ,soles4 ,= a numb] ( rock surfaces a s(t sole s]ves bett] ?an a nail$ boot4 ,x p]mits ( a %>p] flex ( ! ankle1 & re/ores to ! foot mu* ( ! s5sitive & preh5sile quality ( ! h&4 ,its m flexible surface w cl+ to or ov] excresc5ces & flat planes ^u :i* a boot c\ld f9d little or no support4 ,x enables ! foot to be ?ru/ toe-=w>d into n>r[] horizontal cracks or pockets1 & toe-d[nw>d1 = lev]age1 beh9d flakes split v]tically4 ,x is m secure ^u /eep1 smoo? slabs1 9 back-&-toe *imney climb+ & ^u delicate trav]ses4 ,its lightness & close fit give great] ela/icity to ! movem5ts ( ! leg & great] exactitude to ! plac+ ( ! foot4 ,on ! o!r h&1 x has n ! grip 9 ! smoo? angle ( a v]tical crack or corn] t a h>d sole has2 9 side-foot or toe climb+ on n>r[ l$ges ( %e] rock x /ra9s ! foot unduly2 x is trea*]\s on greasy or glaz$ rock1 & absolutely useless on sn[1 ice1 %>p rubble or 9 great] m\nta9e]+4 ,f my own exp]i5ce ,i %\ld say t !re are few /eep places t ! ord9>y rock climb] meets :]e a nail$ boot _c be us$ z securely z a s(t sole1 b t !re are _m :]e ! s(t sole is m com=table & reassur+4 ,we h1 ( rec5t ye>s1 imitat$ ,dolomite climb]s m g5]ally 9 _! use ^u abrupt crags1 & :5 we h f9ally got ov] our prejudice aga9/ c>ry+ extra footge> ) u & bo!r+ to put x on1 !re w be z wide a popul>ity = ! s(t sole1 discreetly us$1 ^u rock z ! claw has at la/ begun to enjoy ^u ice4 ,accord+ to ! texture & condition ( ! rock1 s(t soles ( raw hide1 ?9 lea!r1 wooll5 clo?1 canvas1 flat or ribb$ rubb]1 rope1 & ev5 ! soles ( b>e feet ( a naturally lea!ry quality1 are all & ea* decl>$ to be ! be/ possible we>4 ,x is impossible to assign !m geographically & geologically 9 detail1 & ,i d\bt if anyone w c>ry ) him all ! types on ! *ance ( us+ "o q correctly4 ,! av]age rock climb]1 ev5 ?\gh he kn[s ! tru? t on "s rock boots ) h>d nails1 & on o!rs boots ) s(t nails1 give ! bett] grip1 %[s himself /ill disc\rag+ly reluctant to c>ry ev5 ^! two pairs ) him 9 our own isl&s4 ,i myself pref]r$ a light rubb] sole on dry difficult rock1 & a rope or clo? sole on wet r\gh rock 7n greasy71 :5ev] ! difficulty made x di/9ctly saf] ?an a nail$ boot4 ,rubb] is less durable ?an rope1 b x rema9s m ev5ly preh5sile4 ,! rope sole1 rec5tly us$ ) great effect ev5 9 ! great] ,alps1 gets h>d &1 /ill worse1 h>d5s 9 pat*es t give a fickle tread4 ,= prolong$ we> a s(t-sol$ canvas boot is m com=table ?an ! traditional %oe4 ,_m rock climb]s we> v ?ick /ock+s or sev]al pairs ( socks4#ab ,_! protection to ! foot is great] ?an t ( weighty or rigid boot lea!r1 &1 accord+ z feet & boots v>y 9 size f day to day1 !y all[ ( a correspond+ addition or subtraction4 ,b = pure rock "w _! ?ickness %\ld nev] be all[$ to int]f]e ) ! s5se ( t\* 9 ! toes4 ,any con/riction r\nd ! ankle1 by ! boot1 or r\nd ! knee1 by ! bree*es1 is = ! same reason to be avoid$4 ,to *eck ! circulation or to cramp a s9ew or muscle is to int]rupt ! telegraphic messages ^u :i* balance & safety dep5d4 ,sid5ote3 ,foo?old4 ,! feet 9 all climb+ %\ld be plac$ lightly1 & ! sw+ ( ! leg kept "u control4 ,to aim ! foot1 z _m d1 f ! ?igh & knee1 bang x 91 & !n leave x to settle itself on ! hold1 is to j> ! foot & fatigue ! leg4 ,! movem5t %\ld be precisely direct$ f />t to f9i%1 & no s9ew slack5$ until ! o!r foot has tak5 *>ge4 ,9 cont9u\s climb+ ! position ( ! foot on ! new foo?old %\ld be *os5 ) a view to its support+ ! balance dur+ ! next movem5t up or d[n1 & ! foot mu/ be plac$ exactly z ! eye design$4 ,if n1 ! balance w n rise true on ! lift1 & !re w be a flurri$ h& cl+ & a clumsy foot %uffle until ! "r foot position is f\nd4 ,small inexactitudes mean clums9ess & wa/e ( p[]4 ,good skat+ calls = ! same precise adju/m5t ( ! feet 9 anticipation ( ! next movem5t ( ! body4 ,b ! close/ p>allel is to be f\nd 9 good danc+4 ,! motion ( foot & leg 9 bo? danc+ & cont9u\s climb+ is free yet "u control1 rhy?mical & balanc$ to ! appe>ance ( ease1 b precise2 ready = ! new position requir$ = fre% movem5t1 & yet keep+ ! body 9 balance dur+ ! mom5t>y transf]5ce ( weight4 ,9 bo?1 ! actual contact ( ! feet ) ! surface is always light4 ,9 ei!r1 a heavy or loose tread n only breaks ! rhy?m1 s t ! balance has to be recov]$ by an ef=t1 b x de/roys ! s5sitiv5ess ( t\*1 & delays = a p]ceptible mom5t ! beg9n+ ( ! next movem5t4 ,danc+ is1 9 fact1 an excell5t prep>ation = climb+4 ,good climb]s are1 or c be1 ne>ly always good danc]s4 ,! acc\nt (t5 giv5 9 joke ( a f9e climb] t he #8lit]ally danc$ d[n ! rocks' is a tru?ful picture4 ,a good danc] has to adju/ ! cont9u\s motion ( 8 feet & body ov] an ev5 surface to ! swift & v>i$ rhy?m ( music4 ,a good climb] has only to keep true to 8 own rhy?m2 b he has ! m difficult task ( adju/+ 8 cont9u\s movem5t to ! v>i$ angles1 *ecks & impulses ( unev5 rock holds4 ,! m difficult ! rock1 ! sl[] mu/ be 8 rhy?m2 b sl[ or fa/1 ea* motion mu/ rema9 equally exact & f9i%$4 ,! m precise he r5d]s ea* movem5t1 ! saf] w be 8 progress & ! m poli%$ w appe> to be 8 /yle4 ,all false positions1 sudd5 convulsions or recov]ies t w break ! cont9uity ( movem5t1 h !re=e to be avoid$4 ,9 asc5d+ ^u a v]tical l9e x is1 = in/ance1 obvi\sly bett] to take foo?olds slightly to ! "r & left ) ei!r foot r ?an imm$iately bel[ ! body4 ,! knee ?us turn$ sideways c be flex$ )\t ?ru/+ out ! c5tre ( gravity & int]rupt+ ! cont9uity4 ,aga91 z betwe5 two foo?olds t may (f]1 ! "o l>ge & reassur+ 9 promise b inconv5i5tly plac$1 ! o!r less com=t+ b at a happi] int]val1 ! latt] is to be select$4 ,! fir/ w\ld be s\nd1 b w\ld ne$ two int]rupt$ movem5ts & a readju/m5t betwe5 !m2 ! second w fit 9 ) our cont9u\s movem5t & be secure en\gh to rea* & to leave aga94 ,rock holds are n requir$ = a p]man5t resid5ce4 ,! foot1 ! toe & ! side nail are n look+ = snug b]?s ) a p5sion1 b only = su* security ( t5ure z w p]mit !m to promote ! c>e] easily f "o balanc$ movem5t to ! next4 ,sid5ote3 ,anticipation4 ,^u v /eep rock1 holds r>ely occur 9 ! conv5i5t1 ladd]-l sequ5ce t all[s ( a cont9u\s lift+ ( ! body 9 ! same position & l9e4 ,ea* succe$+ set ( h& & foot holds may "h require a new attitude = purposes ( balance4 ,= ?is int]rupt$ type ( climb+1 h[ev]1 x is j z important to rememb] t x is too late to beg9 to twi/ ! body into ! new position requir$ by ! new holds :5 already ^? holds h be5 rea*$4 ,a climb] :o makes ?is mi/ake gets no help ev5 f 8 sl[] rhy?m1 & looks to be spasmodic & insecure4 ,all ! m "h a good climb] %\ld look be=eh& :at 8 new attitude w h to be on ! new holds1 &1 l a skat]1 he %\ld move 8 body into ! new position :ile he is 9 ! act ( pass+ f ! "o set ( holds to ! o!r4 ,9 ! case ( an awkw>d /ep x is ev5 admissible = him to g up & d[n to x1 t5tatively1 be=e committ+ himself to x1 9 ord] to make c]ta9 t he w arrive ^u ! hold 9 ! "r position4 ,he has !n no ne$ to readju/ 8 feet or h&s :5 ! movem5t is complete & ! next beg9s4 ,?is f9e po9t 9 /yle is invaluable to ma/]2 anticipation saves en]gy & assures safety on long or difficult rock climbs4 ,! s9u\s progress ( ! exp]t on an #8int]rupt$' passage is ef=tless z comp>$ ) ! j]ks & quick contortions ( a less f9i%$ climb] on ! same place2 & on long1 easi] climbs1 :]e all are mov+ toge!r1 he is always ! soon] ready to meet at any second ! failure 9 8 own case ( a s+le hold1 or to give ! imm$iate *eck to ! rope :i* %all correct a slip beh9d him4 ,ev5 if he is 9 mid-movem5t :5 ! call comes1 9 an in/ant ( "t 8 feet & h&s c lock 8 balance into ! new position already half atta9$1 or !y w br+ him back ) nicety to 8 la/ firm holds4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,ankle4 ,9 ! ma/]y ( balance climb+ ! ankle plays a v important "p4 ,s t ! body may progress smoo?ly :5 ! feet are cl++ only to small or v incl9$ holds1 ! ankle mu/ be /rong en\gh & supple en\gh to support ! weight at re/ or 9 motion1 no matt] at :at angle x may be b5t1 =w>d or backw>d or sideways4 ,! ext5t to :i* ! ankle c be flex$ v>ies ) ! individual4 ,extreme 9 babyhood1 ! flexibility c be pres]v$ by e>ly & suitable ex]cise4 ,once x is lo/1 & ! foot #8set1' x is v difficult to recov] or increase x 9 lat] life4 ,^? ^: ankles w only flex city-wise may only envy ! ease ) :i* m\nta9e]+ peasants walk /raight up /eep incl9es1 gett+ _! heels d[n ea* /ep1 or coa/al fi%]-folk hurry safely on flat soles along slipp]y sea slabs at impossible angles4 ,if y\r ankle won't b5d s f>1 x won't4 ,b :at c be & has to be acquir$ is suppl5ess & /r5g? 9 ! ankle1 :atev] its flex1 s t x w hold z securely :5 b5t to ! full z :5 /raight1 & w relate ?r\gh its *ang+ b /eely ar* ! balance movem5t ( ! body above to ! un%ift+ cl+ ( ! foot bel[4 ,l skat+1 ski-+ or crabb+ on claws1 walk+ securely ) a flex$ ankle has to be le>nt by practice2 & ! fir/ ess5tial is confid5ce4 ,balance boldly on slabs4 ,if y lean inw>ds1 or seek support ) ! h&1 y w nev] improve y\r ankle "w4 ,su* practice on ice ) claws & practice on slabs ) %oes or nails are mutually helpful4 ,x is excell5t ex]cise = ! ankle & foot to practise do+ ridge or slab climbs ( progressive /eepness )\t us+ ! h&s at all4 ,! flex ( ! ankle1 ! b[ ( ! leg & balanc+ p[] ( ! trunk muscles work+ toge!r1 c le>n to d a great deal = :i* we are ord9>ily too ready to use ! h&s4 ,by educat+ ankle & foot to "w alone we keep ! h&s 9 res]ve = increas+ly difficult passages4 ,(t5 ! #8prop' ( a b5t ankle above a side-foot hold gives u ! second po9t ( contact ) ! rock :i* is all t our balance requires4 ,i h kn[n ( climb]s ^: /&>d improv$ m>k$ly ow+ to a h& injury or arm w\nd4 ,compell$ to develop _! ankle & foot "w1 by ! "t ! arm recov]$ !y _h le>n$ a bett] #8balanc$' /yle1 & ! fre% help ( ! h& came 9 z s mu* m ga9 9 p[]4 ,c>eful hill walk+ or rock climb+ 9 a light %oe is bett] tra9+ = ! ankle & balance ?an walk+ 9 a heavy boot4 ,! heavy boot re/ricts ! flex & weak5s ! ankle by always support+ x4 ,on all b rock surface x compels ! surface to its s]vice4 ,on rock its rigidity & good side nails g5]ally save u ! tr\ble ( flex+ ! ankle at all4 ,9 a light %oe ! foot & ankle h to adju/ !mselves to ! surface1 & b5d & adh]e at any angle ! hillside or ! slop+ rock may dictate4 ,! ankle gets /r5g!n$ & suppl$4 ,be x not$ t ! go+ mu/ be #8c>eful'2 an unprotect$ ankle until x gets tra9$ is easily turn$ or wr5*$4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,knee4 ,z ,i h said1 ! knee is n n[ s (t5 us$ 9 good balanc$ climb+4 ,n9e times out ( t5 :5 we use a kneehold x is f pure laz9ess1 & eight times out ( t5 we imm$iately rep5t x1 because x is q ?ree times z difficult & six times z pa9ful to />t aga9 (f a kneehold z (f a foo?old4 ,( c\rse on /iff #8mantelpiece' "w or 9 cracks we may h to use x1 toge!r ) all o!r conv5i5t projections ( our frame4 ,&1 on occasion1 9 cont9u\s climb+1 if ! h&s are occupi$ ) ! managem5t ( ! rope1 & ! foo?old is too high to rea* ) s\nd balance1 ! knee c be us$ on a suitable hold z a quick half-way ?ru/ betwe5 di/ant foo?olds4 ,?is avoids break+ our rhy?m by an ov]long rea* up ) ! foot1 or int]rupt+ ! p>ty by dropp+ ! rope 9 ord] to take hold ) ! h&s4 ,"s m51 & ne>ly all wom51 :5 !y use ! knee incl9e x inw>d across ! front ( ! body1 s z to place x on a hold ) its po9t or outside surface 9 ! direct l9e ( asc5t4 ,?is leads to a v con/rict$ attitude4 ,! l[] foot _c be br\ght up bel[ 9 support to any hold on ! direct l9e1 &1 aft] ! lift1 a pull on ! rope or a viol5t ef=t w be necess>y to recov] ! balance or get />t$ (f ! knee aga94 ,! knee %\ld be incl9$ outw>d away f ! body1 & %\ld use a hold ) its inside surface1 to ! "r or left ( ! direct l9e ( asc5t4 ,! spr+ (f knee & %9 f su* a hold lifts ! weight lightly 9 ! direct l9e1 ) ! body cont9u\sly close to ! rock1 & ! l[] foot c be br\ght up easily to a support+ hold 9 ! direct l9e bel[ ! body1 s z to relieve ! knee4 7,try ! positions on ! edge ( a table or on a /ep-ladd]1 & ! diff]5ce becomes cle>47 ,on v smoo? slabs1 :5 foo?old fails1 ! knees & %9s c be us$ to relieve by _! friction a pull-up on ! h&s4 ,if we are we>+ %oes ?is is a r>e case1 z a s(t sole c cl+ any:]e 7& m safely7 t a knee c4 ,su* a friction-cl+ ne$ necess>ily be only = a %ort di/ance1--ab\t ! /ret* ( a man's rea*1--s9ce ! boot1 z soon z x has rea*$ x1 w be able to use any?+ t has be=e be5 suffici5t = ! f+]s to hold on by4 ,!re is only ! "o exception--! problem ( a v]tical or %>ply incl9$ slab1 (f]+ u only a smoo? n>r[ crack or a smoo? slop+ outside edge4 ,! crack or edge may be good en\gh = ! f+]s1 b too smoo? or /eep = a sideways boot toehold4 ,9 ?is case ! :ole outside surface ( ?igh1 knee & leg come into play to give friction-holds on ! slab1 :ile ! h&s are %ift$ upw>ds 9 ! crack or up along ! edge4 7,! positions c be tri$ on a heavy door or gate1 set on "o corn] & incl9$ /eeply 9 ! angle ( a wall4 ,= ! "o case ! door mu/ be sun-crack$67 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,h&4 ,! h&s & arms h to le>n less ?an ! legs4 ,!y are less important = any?+ b purely gymna/ic climb+2 !y h m inh]it$ in/9ct = _! "w2 !y are "u ! con/ant direction ( ! eye1 & !re=e d n ne$ ! same tra9+ 9 automatic movem5ts to c>ry out anticipatory judgm5ts4 ,! h&s are always auxili>y to ! feet & to ! adju/m5t ( ! body4 ,_! p[] only misleads into a bad /yle if !y are us$ to ! neglect ( o!r p>ts ( ! ma*9e4 ,9 cont9u\s climb+ !y complem5t ! lift+ movem5t & assi/ ! balance4 ,_! s]vice is = impulse1 adhesion1 occasionally = traction1 b nev]1 if avoidable1 = susp5sion at re/4 ,footwork1 n h&work1 is ! basis ( balance climb+4 ,sid5ote3 ,cl+ ,holds4 ,9 /eep climb+1 :]e !y come m into play1 in/9ct directs !m h[ to cl+4 ,b 9 tak+ f+]-holds1 especially = pulls1 x mu/ be rememb]$ ! h& is z f9e a piece ( ma*9]y z ! foot1 & less protect$4 ,x c be easily cut or bruis$1 or ! tips r5d]$ call\s s t !y lose _! s5se ( t\*4 ,a well-us$ h& aft] a few days on r\gh rock gets if any?+ m s5sitive2 ! f+]s become #8viol9 tipp$' ) a c]ta9 prickle ( s5sitiv5ess4 ,a hold %\ld be grasp$ l a nettle1 firmly & almo/ f9ick+ly1 s t ! sk9 does n %ift aft]w>ds or drag4 ,x is always a bad sign if ! climb] f9ds cuts on ! insides ( 8 h&s4 ,!y h no bus9ess !re4 ,! %>pe/ ( holds1 if rightly gripp$1 c be us$ = ! lift ( ! weight )\t punctur+ ! sk94 ,abrasions on back or side ( ! h&1 or on ! inside ( ! wri/ & =e>m1 are ano!r matt]4 ,!y almo/ inevitably foll[ ^u ! action ( arm-lev]+ & on ! tak+ ( press & pu% holds 7aft]w>ds describ$74 ,incid5tally1 also1 frequ5t knee & %9 scrapes & bruises are ! signals ( clumsy footwork & scrambl+ me?ods4 ,z a complem5t to ! ord9>y cl+ holds1 :5 ! f+]s cl+ ov] an edge or knob & hold ! weight 9 susp5se1 balance climb+ bas$ ^u footwork enables u to make use ( a :ole gr\p ( invaluable #8"u'-holds4 ,9 ^! ! h&1 gripp+ palm upw>ds "u a d[n-turn$ edge or po9t1 is gett+ security & propulsion by pull+ ! body inw>ds aga9/ ! upw>d ?ru/ ( ! balance f ! feet4 ,! value ( ^! holds dep5ds ^u our practice 9 balance climb+1 :i* enables u to #8comp5sate' z betwe5 our h& & foot hold & to ma9ta9 a c>eful c\nt]poise ( ! h&-pull aga9/ ! foot-?ru/4 ,we c use !m ) effect any:]e betwe5 ! level ( our eyes & our wai/1 accord+ to our /r5g?1 & our ability to use !m adds imm5sely to our ease 9 climb+ v]tical or ov]hang+ rock4 ,a cl+ #8ov]'-hold on su* rock pulls u inw>d1 & adds bl9dness & body friction to ! o!r =ces work+ aga9/ u4 ,a cl+ #8"u'-hold keeps body & eyes free at ! l5g? ( our arms1 b5t or /raight accord+ to our conv5i5ce4 ,granite is ri* 9 su* fa%ion ( hold1 & on r\gh1 cat*y aiguille climbs _m ( u w\ld use !m by pref]5ce be=e ! m obvi\s ov]-holds4 ,cognate ) ! "u-holds are #8side'-holds1 :]e ! edge or po9t ( rock projects & is grasp$ sideways4 ,! pr9ciple ( _! use is ! same z = ! "u-hold1 except t ! h& is turn$ sideways4 ,_! commone/ occasion is 9 ! asc5t ( cracks1 :5 ! outw>d side-pull ( ! h& aga9/ ! inside edge ( ! crack is set aga9/ ! upw>d ?ru/ f our foo?old or knee-jam 9 ! crack bel[1 & our balance te*nique is occupi$ 9 comp5sat+ betwe5 !m4 ,9 cases bo? h&s may be pull+ aga9/ opposite sides ( su* a crack1 & ! comp5sation w !n h to be made betwe5 ! two arm-pulls in/ead ( betwe5 ! s+le arm-pull & ! foot-?ru/4 ,to make any upw>d progress on su* holds )\t any help f foo?old or body friction calls = imm5se arm & f+] p[]2 b 9 connection ) a foot-?ru/ or knee-jam ! oppos+ side-pulls are (t5 ( use4 ,a squ>e-cut or r\nd$ edge1 )\t any projection1 is suffici5t to give good side-hold+4 ,sid5ote3 ,pu% & ,press ,holds4 ,in/9ct w tell u h[ to hang on to ov]-holds & pull up at ! l5g? ( ! arms4 ,practice 9 balance & footwork w tea* u h[ to avail ourselves ( ! v>ieties ( ! m accommodat+ "u & side cl+ holds4 ,b ! balance climb] has to le>n1 = ! yet great] conv5i5ce ( 8 eye1 ! ease ( 8 balance & ! economy ( 8 arm-p[]1 to take 8 h&holds z l[ z possible1 & 9 co-op]ation )1 n 9 opposition to1 8 foot-?ru/s4 ,he soon discov]s t #8pu%' & #8press' holds are m p[]ful & accommodate !mselves bett] to cont9u\s upw>d progress 9 balance ?an any =m ( cl+ holds4 ,i use #8pu%' ( a direct upw>d ?ru/ ( ! arm f a horizontal or incl9$ l$ge or hold1 & #8press' ( a lat]al or diagonal ?ru/ aga9/ a v]tical or incl9$ side-wall4 7,! fir/ c be tri$ on any secure mantelpiece2 ! second1 n s well1 9 any n>r[ passage47 ,! arm1 = pu% holds1 is us$ aft] ! fa%ion ( a leg2 ! h&s are pu%$1 palm d[nw>d1 on l$ges at a height t w all[ ( ! weight1 ) (t5 ! impulse ( a spr+ or foot-?ru/1 be+ lift$ on ! /raight5+ arms4 ,! arms = ?is movem5t possess mu* ( ! /r5g? & ! ease 9 balanc+ usually attribut$ only to ! legs4 ,to lift ! weight on a direct pu% is easi] = _m ?an to raise x by a long-arm pull4 ,on pu% holds ! weight ( ! body keeps ! h&s firmly 9 place2 & a hold by ?ru/+ friction1 ev5 if x be only on a r\nd$ or slop+ l$ge1 calls = less ef=t ?an to keep ! same weight 9 susp5sion f ! crook ( a muscul> f+] r\nd an ideal hold at ! /ret* ( ! arm4 ,! /ronge/ position = pu% holds is t ) ! f+]s turn$ inw>d1 ! palms d[nw>ds1 9 front ( ! body1 at a level any:]e betwe5 ! wai/ & neck1 accord+ to ! individual p[] ( spr+ f ! feet4 ,b pu% holds outside ! body are also useful2 ! f+]s are !n turn$ outw>ds1 palms d[n4 ,ei!r ( ^! positions secures ! help ( ! twi/+ arms z lev]s = reta9+ ! balance dur+ ! upw>d movem5t4 ,^u slabs or on r\nd$ holds at awkw>d angles a v useful h& device is ! comb9ation ( ! pu% & cl+ holds4 ,! wri/ or =e>m re/s along or ov] "s protub]ance s z to secure a d[nw>d pu% hold1 :ile ! f+]s are turn$ to cl+ across "s edge ( ?is hold & keep ! arm f slipp+ (f x4 ,! arm w\ld slip (f ! pu% hold b = ! an*or ( ! f+]s2 ! f+]s w\ld slip out ( _! awkw>d cl+ hold b = ! friction an*or ( ! arm4 ,?us by a delicate comp5sation betwe5 ! =e>m pu%+ & ! f+]s cl++ we obta9 "o s\nd comb9ation hold out ( two sep>ately insecure holds4 ,l$ges are m frequ5tly r\nd$ or incl9$ aga9/ u ?an squ>e & conv5i5t4 ,! re9=cem5t ( an arm pu% hold by a f+] cl+1 or ! giv+ ( a "r direction to a f+] cl+ by ! friction an*or ( wri/ or =e>m1 is !re=e ( con/ant s]vice & des]v+ ( all practice4 ,9 press holds ! flat ( ! h&s is ?ru/ sideways aga9/ a smoo? surface ( v]tical or /eep rock1 :i* may be ! reta9+ wall ( a *imney1 or a project+ leaf or corn]4 ,x is a help if ! out] edge ( ! h& c re/ aga9/ any seem+ly valueless excresc5ce4 ,) ! h& s held ! elb[ has only to be lift$1 & ! arm becomes a lev]1 ?ru/+ ! balance inw>d1 secur$ by1 & itself secur+1 ! friction ( ! h&4 ,two h&s s press$ aga9/ any slop+ surfaces c lift ! :ole weight4 ,press$ aga9/ v]tical surfaces--! inside walls ( cracks1 = in/ance1 too n>r[ to admit ! body--!y are suffici5t to reta9 ! balance1 :ile ! feet f9d any slight hold1 or ev5 only friction holds1 to supply propulsion4 ,h[ good ! foo?old mu/ be to complem5t su* h&holds is a matt] ( practice 9 comp5sations4 ,pu% & press holds ) ! h&s1 comb9$ ) ! twi/ & lev]age ( ! arms1 9 comb9ations innum]able1 are ! ref9em5ts ( exceptionally difficult climb+4 ,_! m]it is ! sav+ ( muscul> ef=t & ! sub/itution = x ( ! me*anism ( balance4 ,_! use has inevitably gr[n out ( ! new fa%ion ( footwork develop$ 9 balance climb+1 gr\nd$ on ! recognition t ! m ext5d$ ! body & ! wid] ap>t feet & h&s are fix$1 ! less is ! p[] & ! great] is ! ef=t ( s+le movem5t1 & !re=e ! great] ! int]ruption to cont9u\s rhy?m4 ,to keep ! balance /eady1 ! eyesight free & ! rhy?m con/ant1 foo?olds & h&holds mu/ be tak5 at conv5i5t di/ances well )9 ! compass ( ! rea*4 ,sid5ote3 ,9 ,cracks4 ,9 difficult crack climb+ ! ext5t to :i* pressure1 ! jamm+ ( a leg1 ! t\* ( a calf or knee1 or ! twi/+ ( a h& or =e>m c be us$ to ease ! muscul> /ra9 mu/ be le>n$ by practice4 ,a fi/ or f+] may be hook$ 9 a smoo? rift1 or a foot slant$ into a crack1 ) only friction atta*m5t1 & a slight twi/ to arm or leg conv]ts ei!r into a secure lev] = lift+ ! weight4 ,! cl5*+ ( ! fi/ or ! tight5+ ( ! muscles ( a jamm$ =e>m1 or ev5 ! inflation ( ! *e/1 may at ne$ s]ve ! same purpose4 ,! inexp]t eye might see little diff]5ce betwe5 su* movem5ts & ^? ( gripp+ or cl++4 ,z a matt] ( fact1 ! diff]5ce is ma9ta9$ ev5 "h4 ,:]e a grip climb] aims at re/-po9ts ( p5d5t security1 & /ruggles betwe5 !m by muscul> pulls1 ! balance climb] is prim>ily conc]n$ to keep fre$om & cont9uity ( movem5t4 ,he is us+ ! balance ( ! body1 if only = fractions ( a second1 to relieve ! direct weight on 8 arms or ! indirect /ra9 on 8 legs4 ,8 arms & legs are lev]s 9 conv]t+ proportionately slight muscul> ef=ts into big cont9u\s movem5ts1 mak+ friction & ! m]e weight ( ! balanc+ body d a l>ge %>e ( ! "w4 ,consequ5tly1 to ! exp]t eye1 8 body is se5 to asc5d on a l9e slightly f>!r out f ! rock ?an ! grip climb] 9 ! same place1 & 9 a diff]5t sequ5ce ( attitudes4 ,he w be avoid+ at all co/s ! grip climb]'s temptation to be too secure1 to fix himself 9 attitudes or on holds f :i* he w h to em]ge by direct muscul> pulls4 ,9 corn]s or *imneys he w use a set ( slight] & less attractive holds1 if !y exi/1 f>!r out1 s z to keep 8 body free f friction aga9/ ! rock4 ,if su* a set ( holds is lack+ altoge!r1 he w be employ+ press holds ) ! h&s1 lev] holds ) arm or leg1 twi/$ pressure-?ru/s f 8 foot & ankle aga9/ "o wall to 8 knee aga9/ ! o!r--any device t w relieve him ( direct pulls & w leave 8 body free to help him at any second ) "s balance adju/m5t4 ,=1 once ! body is really jamm$ up aga9/ ! rock or 9 a crack1 arms & legs are usually work+ only aga9/ "o ano!r or aga9/ ! friction ( %\ld]s or ?ighs1 & ! me*anism c m]ely /ruggle & exhau/ itself4 ,sid5ote3 ,on ,slabs4 ,simil>ly ^u slabs he w be select+ holds1 n accord+ to _! size & obvi\sness1 b accord+ z !y are arrang$ well )9 8 com=table span4 ,he avoids at all co/s gett+ #8spread-eagl$4' ,! sure/ safegu>d aga9/ gett+ /uck is to select ! holds be=eh&1 & !n be c]ta9 t y\r feet & h&s use !m z y design$4 ,let no?+ tempt y to alt] y\r plan once y are mov+4 ,?is is ! h>de/ lesson to le>n4 ,if y h any eye at all1 y\r alt]ation w nev] be = ! bett]4 ,:5ev]1 z mu/ occur 9 awkw>d places1 y\r sight ( ! holds is int]rupt$1 keep y\r head & /ick coolly to y\r recollection4 ,_m climb]s get slightly flurri$ once !y are #8bl9d4' ,!y =get _! plan1 ev5 ! exi/5ce p]haps ( ! "o hold t made ! passage seem possible 9 anticipation4 ,!y rev]t to /ruggl+ & arm-cl++4 ,_! agitation (t5 takes ! =m ( a combative recklessness4 ,!y feel !y w fight x out ) ! holds !y h got r ?an desc5d & recov] ! saf] l9e !y plann$4 ,?is liability to flurry may take ye>s to ma/]4 ,mo/ ( u h suff]$ f x2 & notably 9 ^? attractive holes "u *ock/ones or ov]hangs--holes s irresi/ibly tempt+ to ?ru/ "o's head & %\ld]s into1 b f :i*1 bl9d$ & out ( balance1 x is extremely try+ to em]ge4 ,notably1 aga91 on ^? /eep problem-slabs1 :]e a s+le tempt+ hold has spread-eagl$ u helplessly & left u wond]+ h[ long ! s+le nail w support u4 ,! only protection is =esight1 a /eady adh]5ce to plan1 & ! resolution always to climb z f> out z possible f ! rock4 ,if ! h&s are all[$ to pull ! nose into ! rock we are easily p\nd$4 ,! protection is footwork & ! flexible ankle4 ,x is ! bus9ess ( ! ankle to b5d & /ay b5t at :atev] angle may keep our body 9 safe balance & away f ! rock1 & to transmit our weight to ! foot at j ! "r angle to hold x firm on its slop+ /ance4 ,! f>!r out f ! rock we c keep ! weight1 ! /eep] ! app>5t angle ( foo?old :i* x is safe to use4 ,on /eep slabs a v flexible ankle w (t5 let ! foot re/ flat1 gett+ an ov]lapp+ or friction hold on sev]al rugosities ( surface ) its :ole sole :]e a less practis$ ankle or a /iff-sid$ boot mu/ tru/ to ! less secure cat* ( a side-nail on "o su* r\ghness4 ,quiet movem5t is ess5tial2 to leave a slight hold hurri$ly is z dang]\s z to arrive on x clumsily4 ,if y h to use a knee or hip or =e>m z a friction hold1 set x z g5tly & relieve x z lightly z if x 7 a s+le f+]4 ,sid5ote3 ,*imney ,climb+4 ,*imney climb+ is ano!r occasion = too allur+ re/ positions & = tempt+ b ov]-close contacts4 ,by a #8*imney' we usually mean a rift t w admit ! body1 z contra/$ ) a #8crack' :i* w n4 ,! me?od ( asc5d+ betwe5 ! v]tical or /eeply slop+ walls ( *imneys1 :]e9 holds = ord9>y foot & h& "w are lack+1 is usually call$ #8back & knee'2 m correctly x %\ld be nam$ #8back & foot1' z ! knee ne$ r>ely be us$4 ,! position is ) ! back aga9/ "o wall & ! feet aga9/ ! o!r1 ! legs b5t or /raight accord+ to ! wid?1 & ! ?ru/ ( ! sp9e & %\ld]s provid+ ! security4 ,"h aga9 ! prop] object is cont9u\s movem5t1 & su* attitudes z may assi/ t[>ds x4 ,! temptation = ! safety climb] is to sit across ! *imney1 ) ! legs /raight & almo/ at "r angles to ! body4 ,! body is !n w$g$2 x s9ks slightly inside ! clo!s1 :i* are fa/ to ! rock by friction1 &1 :ile x is q secure1 pres5ts also ! utmo/ resi/ance to any upw>d impulse4 ,! "r position = ! feet aga9/ ! opposite wall is slightly bel[ ! body1 z l[ z w all[ ( an easy upw>d impulse be+ giv5 to ! body )\t risk ( ! feet slipp+4 ,! h&s & arms are /ret*$ d[nw>d1 pa/ ! body1 ) ! arms b5t & ! palms flat aga9/ ! rock beh9d4 ,= movem5t upw>d1 "o foot is br\ght across f ! opposite wall & ?ru/ ) ! flat sole aga9/ ! rock close "u ! body4 ,! friction ( ! foot !n all[s ! b5t knee to be p>tially /raight5$1 & ! body rais$4 ,:ile x rises1 & ! %\ld]s ?us come cle> ( ! rock1 ! ?ru/ ( ! arms & h&s backw>d aga9/ ! rock takes ! place ( ! jam ) ! %\ld]s1 & s keeps ! foot aga9/ ! opposite wall 9 its place4 ,s soon z ! lift is complet$ & ! back is at re/ aga9/ ! rock aga91 ! "u foot t has be5 us$ is %ot across to a high] position aga9/ ! opposite wall1 ! h&s move up1 & ! o!r leg comes across1 to act z spr+ 9 its turn4 ,! body is ?us really asc5d+1 pois$1 betwe5 ! %ift+ pressures ( ! arms & feet1 & is only tak+ in/ants ( re/ aga9/ ! rock to all[ !m to take new positions4 ,x is entirely wrong1 b v usual1 to walk up ! opposite wall ) ! feet1 & wriggle ! %\ld]s up ! ne> rock 9 accord4 ,?is is wa/eful ( clo!s & ( en]gy1 & n s secure 9 its actual movem5t4 ,=1 on ! "r me?od1 if ! foot aga9/ ! opposite wall %[s an incl9ation to slip z ! %\ld]s rise1 ! arms c ?ru/ away f _! wall & s apply extra pressure to keep ! foot 9 place1 ev5 :ile !y are /ill pu%+ ! body upw>d2 :]eas1 on ! wrong me?od1 ! back has no su* ela/ic m>g92 x _c pu% across & d[nw>ds :ile x is itself mov+ up4 ,9 all su* feats ! m fre$om t c be kept = movem5t1 ev5 at ! co/ ( adopt+ m expos$ positions & ( bridg+ ourselves across intimidat+ly wid] angles1 ! great] 9 reality is ! safety4 ,9 n>r[ *imneys1 too smoo? = foot or h& hold & too n>r[ to all[ ( secure bridg+ ) ! back aga9/ ! "o wall1 x is possible to move up ) ! feet press$ flat aga9/ ! two walls1 "o on ea* side3 "o ) ! toe po9t+ up 9 front ( u1 ! o!r ) ! toe d[n bel[ u2 ! body is kept upright 9 ! middle on ! spr+ ( ! b5t knees & support$ by ! pressure ( ! h&s1 plac$ l ! feet "o aga9/ ea* wall4 ,9 ?is fa%ion we c #8rock' up satisfactorily4 ,b ! me?od is only safe to practise ) s(t soles1 & x is ( c\rse v /r5u\s4 ,:]ev] possible we pref] to keep outside a *imney1 or corn]1 altoge!r1 & use our feet up ! edges ( its reta9+ walls4 ,if we are =c$ inside1 we adopt any sets ( holds = our feet up ! oppos+ walls1 h[ev] wide a split !y mean = ! legs & h[ev] fe>some ! dep? may look betwe5 our feet1 be=e we resort to ! cramp+1 wat]worn recess & ! sl[] me?od ( #8back & foot4' ,balance climb]s return1 z x 71 to ! gully epo* only "u prote/ & :]e foo?olds fail4 ,sid5ote3 ,rib ,rid+4 ,9 clamb]+ up %>p noses1 flakes or ribs1 :]e bodily contact ) ! rock is en=c$1 ! same pr9ciple ( keep+ f> out & aim+ at cont9u\s movem5t aga9 holds good4 ,to sit close a/ride1 & claw up ! rock by means ( ! ?ighs1 elb[s & h&s1 is cu/om>y1 & seem+ly safe2 b ! really saf] me?od1 because x admits ( un9t]rupt$ progress1 is to keep ! body away1 & to grip ) ! sole & flex$ ankle1 or ) ! knees & sides ( ! feet1 on ei!r side ( ! rib1 or to lock "o leg diagonally across ! edge s t ! foot & knee press aga9/ its oppos+ facets4 ,mean:ile ! h&s1 hold+ opposite ways1 grip across ! edge above4 ,9 su* a position ! body c s9k at any in/ant1 = re/1 into contact ) ! rock1 & c rise aga9 f ! feet1 knees or %9 )\t ef=t4 ,x is useful to rememb] t :5 ! friction ( loosely clo!d p>ts ( ! body is solely reli$ ^u = hold 7z :5 we are cl++ close ) ?ighs & body to a rib71 ! body always s9ks slightly inside ! clo!s1 & has s mu* ! m difficulty 9 re/>t+ a fre% movem5t4 ,sid5ote3 ,wet ,rock4 ,x mu/ be add$ t :5 rocks are wet1 friction _c be reli$ ^u1 & at ! same "t ! security ( foot & h& hold is greatly dim9i%$4 ,wet rocks may mean slimy rocks1 & always mean cold rocks4 ,cold soon *ills ! muscles1 less5s ! s5se ( t\*1 & notably impairs bo? ! confid5ce & ! p[] to climb4 ,on a wet day x is well to c>ry "s sp>e dry gloves4 ,if1 !n1 we h to make "s p>ticul>ly awkw>d balance or lift1 & ! f+]s are wet & cold1 a fre% glove w give u a few holds ( bett] friction1 until x1 too1 gets wet4 ,9 ! ,alps wet rocks mean glaz$ rocks1 & we avoid !m4 ,9 our own hills we accept wet rocks z "p ( ! day1 b we treat !m ) an extra degree ( respect4 ,m5 9 s(t soles1 on dry1 hot rock 9 sun%9e1 c climb ) complete & hil>i\s security places t ra9 & w9d make x fooli% to attempt4 ,= mo/ m5 ! /&>d ( possibility v>ies z mu* z #dj p] c5t4 ,?is is nev] suffici5tly all[$ = 9 y\?4 ,fir$ by emulation1 "y climb]s arrive 9 ra9 :]e _! rivals h pass$ on sun-dry holds4 8,a rock is a rock2 &1 by ,george1 x mu/ g60 is _! motto2 & if _! =tune is bett] ?an _! k1 !y accompli% a climb :i* sub/itutes a dang] happily escap$ = e difficulty reasonably ma/]$ by _! pr$ecessors4 ,on ! o!r h&1 to accu/om ourselves to f9d our rock climbs1 & to climb _! wet rocks "u all conditions ( wea!r1 is necess>y tra9+4 ,provid$ we all[ = ! diff]5ce 9 p]missible attempt1 we risk little1 9 our small-scale home climb+1 by p]si/+ aga9/ mod]ately uncom=table circum/ances4 ,we are ! bett] able to endure !m :5 !y surprise u on m s]i\s alp9e exp$itions4 ,a little adv]se circum/ance re/ores mu* ( _! orig9al difficulty & adv5ture to _m f9e m\nta9e]+ climbs too apt to be neglect$ by mod]n speciali/s because ( _! /raight=w>dness "u sunny conditions4 ,a man :o c "w *e]fully up an old-fa%ion$ ,briti% rock climb aga9/ ra9 & wet holds is a s\nd] climb] ?an ! exp]t :o w only d ! supreme #8inv5tions1' & ^? only 9 fair wea!r = fe> ( spoil+ 8 record4 ,9 ?is c\ntry ! f9e/ rock climbs1 bo? sc5ically & z m\nta9e]+ tra9+1 are n ! mo/ difficult2 r ?an t !y %\ld be neglect$1 we %\ld seek !m & climb !m on ! wet days4 ,sid5ote3 ,glaz$ ,rock4 ,glaz$ rock is its own prophet & policeman4 ,9 ! summ] ,alps we ne$ only expect to f9d x aft] a sn[fall1 or :]e sn[ comm&+ rock may h be5 melt$1 run d[n & refroz54 ,x makes an unexpect$ & m dang]\s appe>ance :5 a sudd5 fall ( temp]ature freezes ! mi/1 f9e ra9 or ?aw+ sn[ aft] its fall or z x falls on to ! rocks1 :ile we may be actually on !m4 ,i "k ( no m trea*]\s move 9 ! m\nta9 game or "o :i* calls = m cauti\s1 labori\s & +5i\s c\nt]mov+4 ,9 ,brita91 z ,i h said else:]e1 we h to bew>e ( x almo/ z mu*1 9 ! w9t] & e>ly spr+ mon?s4 ,x may foll[ a silv] ?aw1 a cold fog or a mi/ on a *ange ( w9d4 ,by />t+ our climb+ e>ly ^u ho>-fro/$ rocks or fre% sn[ we may create our own glaze by h& & foot pressure4 ,on really bad film-glaze no?+ is sure = h& or foot hold2 b a glove or s(t sole 7n rubb]7 has a bett] *ance ( #8freez+ on' ?an a boot or cold f+]4 ,a ?ick sock1 pull$ ov] ! boot1 w help1 or we may take (f our boots & climb 9 ! saf] /ock+s4 ,on /eep glaz+ rock1 & ^u wet rock if its surface gr[s greasy ) ! moi/ure1 cont9u\s climb+ becomes imm$iately int]rupt$ climb+4 ,we h to consid] ! *ances ( a hold fail+ or break+ or ( a man slipp+ z increas$ "s t5fold4 ,we mu/ take precautions z = uns\nd rock & protect ourselves ) an*ors1 belays & ! l4 ,h[ev] easy ! rock may normally be1 glaze or grease introduces a new elem5t ( #8dang]1' & ! transp>5t ?reat =ces u1 if we are wise1 to treat any mod]ate climb ) ! respect due to s]i\s difficulty4 ,sid5ote3 ,summ>y4 ,i h only select$ = description a few conspicu\s features ( ord9>y rock surface1 :i* might illu/rate ! und]ly+ pr9ciples ( a good rock climb+ /yle4 ,_! detail is negligible except z illu/ration4 ,climb+ situations are inf9itely v>i\s1 & m5 v>y z :imsically 9 _! p]sonal adju/m5ts4 ,long be=e he has rea*$ ! po9t ( lead+ difficult passages1 ! climb] w h got 8 own ob/9ate idea ( h[ to apply ! pr9ciples 9 detail to p>ticul> rock features4 ,= ! b5efit ( ! less in/ruct$ ,i w\ld only repeat t rock climb+ is be/ le>n$ ^u long & v>i$ passages1 away f ! /accato allurem5ts ( b\ld]s1 trick climbs & belays4 ,/yle is ! ma/]y ( rhy?mic movem5t1 movem5t cont9u\sly secure & cont9u\sly ef=tless ov] e modulation ( hold dur+ a long day4 ,:5 a climb] c trav]se a long ridge ( av]age difficulties safely & quickly1 /epp+ ! edge by balance or dropp+ on ei!r side z he goes & us+ balance holds ) ei!r h&1 )\t *eck to 8 p>ty1 he is already a safe climb] & on ! way to be a s\nd m\nta9e]4 ,if he proce$s to foll[ ! craft into "s ( its m +5i\s dep>tures1 x w only mean a m elaborate application ( ! same pr9ciples t he has already le>n$ to practise3 to tru/ to 8 feet2 to make use ( 8 ankles2 to tread lightly & precisely2 to keep ! h&s l[2 to *oose holds 9 advance & /ick to !m2 to move well out f ! rock2 to rely on balance r ?an muscle2 to make cont9u\s1 supple & ev5tually graceful movem5t 8 ideal2 n to re/ satisfi$ until he has acquir$ rhy?m2 & la/ly1 nev] to get flurri$4 ,,uns\nd ,,rock ,:ile a climb] is /ill only conc]n$ ) p]fect+ 8 own adju/m5ts 9 relation to rock requirem5ts1 he w be unconsci\sly collect+ a great deal ( practical in=mation ab\t diff]5t types ( rock4 ,if he is ( a curi\s habit1 he w be l$ on to "s sup]ficial /udy ( petrology or geology4 ,b ev5 if he h no memory = names or imag9ative grasp ( ons1 he _c help gradually amass+ a quantity ( empirical k z to :at k9ds ( holds to expect if a rock looks s & s 9 outl9e1 :e!r to reckon ^u f9d+ *imneys or trav]ses or flakes if its ma9 l9es ( cleavage or fracture are su* & su*1 & :at to all[ = 9 detail accord+ to 8 di/ant obs]vation ( ! g5]al /ructure & wea!r+4 ,! discov]y ( ! "n ( a preval5t rock w tell him :at k9d ( climb+ to prep>e himself = 9 a p>ticul> di/rict1 or ! sight ( x :5 he gets !re w guide him 9 ! selection & managem5t ( 8 climbs4 ,he may nev] h be5 able to ma/] ! diff]5ce betwe5 ,t]ti>y & ,second>y1 any m ?an rememb] ! ord] ( ! ,popes ( ,rome1 & yet h qualifi$ himself ins5sibly = t mo/ fasc9at+ =m ( speculative discussion1 ! design+ ( new r\tes 9 kn[n or unkn[n di/ricts4 ,on a l[] b /ill m useful plane he w h le>n$ to judge f its g5]al appe>ance :e!r rock is s\nd or uns\nd1 & f its clos] aspect :]e to expect uns\nd intrusions ^u good rock4 ,! increas$ in=mation n[ available ab\t our hills enables u to avoid rock faces ( uncom=table notoriety & to attack ecc5tric types ) precaution4 ,a l>ge numb] ( climbs1 ev5 :ole m\nta9 walls1 t us$ to be popul> on acc\nt ( ! attraction ( _! wea!r$ angles1 are n[ left = ! same reason almo/ unvisit$4 ,b uns\nd rock _c always be elud$1 & a climb] has to be ready to deal ) %ort b&s or intrusions ( inf]ior rock on any climb :i* he does n p]sonally "k1 & on _m to :i* he returns = love ( _! s\nd] sections4 ,=tunately1 accord+ to ! nature ( rock1 ^! intrusions are r>] & %ort] on /eep] rock1 & any m consid]able section w provide its own alleviation 9 a rel5t+ angle1 :]e ! s(t] surface has dis9tegrat$ m rapidly ?an its firm] surr\nd+s4 ,?is may1 ( c\rse1 mean an ov]hang1 to ! climb]'s disadvantage4 ,if n1 x w at lea/ (f] him an easi] angle = advance ov] its unattractive trespass4 ,on uns\nd rock e m]it t *>act]izes f9i%$ climb+ by balance1 or comp5sation1 is emphasiz$4 ,a novice %\ld nev] be all[$ to lead4 ,a grip climb] is a dang] on ! rope & a suicidal *oice z lead]4 ,sid5ote3 ,semi-deta*$4 ,on bad rock e hold is an object ( suspicion1 s9ce almo/ all ! holds w be liable to fail "u "o or ano!r direction ( pull4 ,! obvi\sly bad hold1 ! hold t comes away at ! fir/ t\*1 anyone w reject4 ,b our object on uns\nd rock is to get ov] x2 & = t purpose to use its holds = :at !y are wor? r ?an to />t ca/+ !m d[n 9 an attitude ( righte\s indignation--& insecurity4 ,) a c>ess+ h& ! good climb] discov]s :at pull ! hold is likely to be good =1 & 8 judgm5t tell+ him ! direction & am\nt ( pull t 8 next movem5t w dem& f x1 he w avoid loos5+ x be=eh& by any te/ n necess>y = ?is movem5t4 ,! grip climb]1 !re=e1 :o puts half a doz5 directions ( /ra9 ^u ea* h&hold 9 any "o lift+ movem5t1 w make no progress at all on uns\nd holds4 ,if he does n te/ !m be=eh&1 9 ! end he w fall4 ,if he te/s !m prop]ly 9 all ! directions t 8 lift w dem&1 he w remove mo/ ( ! holds be=e he c use !m4 ,! balance climb]1 :o has practis$ putt+ only t direction ( /ra9 ^u a hold :i* 8 own next movem5t & ! hold's security agree ^u1 is 9 less ( a qu&>y4 ,=1 except 9 ! case ( fragm5ts :i* are already deta*$1 & cle>ly ready to fall1 ne>ly e surface accid5t :i* is /ill 9 atta*m5t to ! ma9 rock w /& light additional /ra9 9 at lea/ "o direction4 ,?is1 ( c\rse1 v>ies accord+ to ! /ratification ( ! rock & its fractures4 ,z an in/ance1 on a /eep face ! ord9>y l9es ( fracture may be v]tical & horizontal to ! discov]able incl9ation ( ! /rata4 ,if ! #8hold' is already deta*$ f ! rock on bo? ^! l9es1 & only re/+ on a support1 x is useless4 ,if1 h[ev]1 ! excresc5ce is fractur$ at its base1 horizontally1 b atta*$ to ! rock beh9d1 v]tically1 x w be good = a /raight outw>d pull4 ,x c also be te/$1 b x _c o!rwise be tru/$1 = a d[nw>d or diagonal pull4 ,if x is deta*$ f ! rock beh9d1 v]tically1 b /ill "p ( ! rock bel[ x1 horizontally1 x is s\nd = a direct d[nw>d pull1 b n = any outw>d or cross /ra94 ,if ! /rata /rike diagonally1 & ! cleavages correspond1 mutatis mut&is1 ! same rules apply = ! diff]5t directions ( pull1 p]missible or n1 ^u _! holds4 ,a climb] has n only to make sure :at direction ( /ra9 he may safely put ^u a hold1 b to keep ?is direction ( pull or ?ru/ con/ant all ?r\gh 8 upw>d or d[nw>d movem5t1 irrespective ( ! *ang+ position ( 8 body 9 relation to ! hold4 ,! vital importance ( climb+ by comp5sat+ balances becomes !n app>5t4 ,a climb] :o has tra9$ 8 me*anism to ! habit ( translat+ ! support ( any hold t any "o ( 8 extremities engages1 by means ( ! balance ( 8 body1 into movem5t 9 any direction he requires1 has little difficulty 9 keep+ ! /ra9 he puts ^u a s+le h& or foot hold con/ant 9 direction4 ,he c d s ev5 :ile he is us+ its support to lift 8 weight ?r\gh a succession ( angles pa/ & ov] ! hold4 ,x is1 9 fact1 ! process t he has _h to le>n = 8 ord9>y #8s\nd' climb+1 if he has become a balance climb] ( precision or pace4 ,a clumsy climb]1 or "o :o dep5ds on grip normally1 is helpless :5 fac$ ) h&holds ( ?is #8"o-direction' k9d4 ,he may discov] by te/ h[ he ought to use !m1 b ! mom5t ! lift+ or l[]+ movem5t beg9s ! habit ( 8 me*anism w reass]t itself1 & he w *ange ! direction ( 8 pull z 8 body ne>s or passes ! hold4 ,ev5 if he ma9ta9s ! direction by an ef=t ( w at ! mom5t1 8 body w n h be5 tra9$ to c>ry out ! me*anical conv]sions ) suffici5t p[] to ov]come ! pure difficulty ( _m a passage1 altoge!r ap>t f its insecurity4 ,he w be =c$ to fall back ^u muscle or grip to f9i% 8 movem5t1 & ! hold may break4 ,a grip climb] :o normally neglects footwork is 9 ev5 worse case on uns\nd rock1 :5 he has to use1 or te/1 su* #8"o-direction' holds ) 8 feet4 ,on uns\nd rock good footwork is1 if any?+1 m important ?an good h&work4 ,only exactly ! same /ra9 may be appli$ by ! less s5sitive feet1 :5 !y take ! place ( ! h&s on ! hold4 ,s9ce ! d[nw>d ?ru/ ( a foot c only be slightly modifi$ 9 direction1 ?is limitation mu/ be rememb]$ 9 select+ & te/+ a hold by ! h&4 ,o!rwise x may n be s\nd = ! lat] & diff]5t requirem5ts ( ! foot4 ,foo?old is always ! dang]-po9t on uns\nd rock2 & ?is con/itutes ! peculi> dem]it ( su* rock = #8climb+ d[n1' :5 ! foot alone mu/ te/ & lead4 ,a climb]1 especially :5 he is desc5d+1 mu/ nev] tru/ to 8 feet alone1 b protect !m by at lea/ "o te/$ h&hold4 ,a good rule to rememb] 9 all v exact+ climb+ is t nev] less ?an ?ree extremities %\ld h hold4 ,on uns\nd rock ! bett] rule is1 nev] less ?an f\r4 ,! dang]\s mom5t comes :5 "o h& or foot is 9 process ( te/+ or %ift+ to a new hold4 ,! movem5t mu/ be made )\t j]k2 ! weight mu/ be di/ribut$ betwe5 ! o!r po9ts accord+ to _! m]it2 & ! direction ( ! pull1 z te/$ & f\nd secure on ea* hold1 mu/ be rememb]$4 ,h5ce our motion ov] uns\nd holds may be prop]ly describ$ z creep+4 ,e atta*m5t mu/ be light b t5aci\s1 & "o t5tacle is only releas$ :5 ! o!rs are secure4 ,on insecure rock we are no long] conc]n$ to keep ! body z f> out z possible4 ,our object is secure1 n free1 movem5t4 ,consequ5tly1 we move ) ! body z close 9 to ! rock z is consi/5t ) sight & its fre$om f cat*+4 ,if1 !n1 "o hold does break1 !re is less outw>d pull ^u ! o!rs1 & ! body c s9k in/antane\sly aga9/ ! rock & help to su/a9 u by its friction4 ,sid5ote3 ,deta*$4 ,small1 loose fragm5ts %\ld be ?r[n well out f ! cliff1 or tuck$ away discreetly on l$ges t ne$ n be us$4 ,l>ge1 loose fragm5ts are be/ left 9 situ1 & ! ^w pass$ d[n ! l9e ( _! pres5ce1 until ! la/ man1 if he likes1 may remove !m4 ,(t5 a block or l>ge /one1 :i* is deta*$ f ! p>5t rock bo? beh9d & ?r\gh its base1 may yet af=d v s\nd foo?old = a good foot climb]1 suppos+ x is se5 to be re/+ on a level & suffici5t l$ge4 ,! same may be ! case ) p9nacles or spl9t]s1 p>tially fractur$ or jamm$ 9 cracks4 ,te/$ & tactfully us$1 !y are (t5 /able = a /eady ?ru/ or pull 9 "o direction at lea/2 b mu* dep5ds ^u ! nature ( _! b$d+4 ,rock on walls & ridges fac+ s\?1 9 ! ,alps or at home1 mu/ be suspect$ ( deta*$ lean+s1 until its family connections are demon/rat$ by inve/igation4 ,holds :i* h be5 cov]$ by v]dure or subject$ to ! action ( moi/ure 9 any =m h to be judici\sly prov$4 ,rocks project+ f ice or sn[--^? pleasant oases t[>ds :i* we /e] ) su* relief to ease our /ep-cutt+ or sn[-wad+--mu/ always be approa*$ z uns\nd rock4 ,if1 on occasion1 !y prove our suspicions wrong1 !y h only prov$ !mselves an exception to a melan*oly rule4 ,except on frequ5t$ r\tes1 x is nev] safe to assume ! security ( big deta*$ blocks1 pois$ on ridges or *ok$ 9 gullies1 unless _! fa%ion ( support is absolutely demon/rable4 ,!y %\ld be left to ! la/ man to te/4 ,f all acc\nts ra% lead]s :o neglect$ ?is precaution h escap$ m (t5 & m miracul\sly ?an _! intellig5ce1 at lea/1 des]v$4 ,a lead]1 if he has any d\bt1 %\ld avoid t\*+ su* blocks altoge!r4 ,if1 = all 8 caution1 a block gives unacc\ntably1 he mu/ hang on to x = all he kn[s1 until ! m5 bel[ h got :at %elt] !y c4 ,nor mu/ he =get ! rope4 ,if ! block cat*es ! rope 9 fall+1 ! dang] is z great z if x /rikes "o ( ! p>ty4 ,ap>t f ^! & o!r p]man5t idiosyncrasies1 mo/ normally s\nd rock surface w be f\nd to h its times & places ( wea!r+ or weakness4 ,we h to le>n to recognize ! symptoms1 =gett+ our prejudices 9 fav\r ( old & tru/$ rock types1 & treat _! intrusion ) all ! delicacy & consid]ation ( tread & t\* :i* we owe to ! small infirmities ( tri$ fri5ds4 ,9 s f> z !y are1 or 71 rock1 mora9e & scree may be call$ uns\nd4 ,sid5ote3 ,mora9e & ,scree4 ,! occasional /one on a /eep glaci] is a f9d = a foo?old2 b ! /ones t coat ! ice-core ( mora9e slopes are m]ely trea*]\s4 ,if we h to trav]se a few /eps on su* a slope1 x is be/ to knock ! /one out & tread 9 its ice-socket4 ,! summit edges ( mora9es (t5 (f] passable go+1 especially if previ\s p>ties h knock$ (f ! f9al blocks4 ,_! side walls1 :e!r ( /one or ( /one & mud conglom]ate1 are ! lea/ scalable & mo/ exasp]at+ incl9es 9 ! m\nta9 _w4 ,!y are (t5 ev5 too h>d to make /eps 91 & x is fatal to attempt %ort cuts ^u !m4 ,9 trav]s+ along scree slopes1 if ! scree is small1 ! "o ?+ to rememb] is to #8accept ! slip'2 to place ! foot lightly & let x slip till x /ops2 n to make convulsive ef=ts to recov] x1 or to keep ! foot up to ! same l9e ( trav]se4 ,if ! foot slips too f> on /eep scree1 lean inw>d on ! axe or /ick1 :i* is held po9t inw>d across ! body4 ,to #8ru%' scree on any?+ b ! d[ngrade is m]ely to wa/e en]gy & "t4 ,9 asc5d+ or trav]s+ take %ort /eps2 tread always = a p>ticul> /one1 & d n br[n ! mass ( /ones vaguely ) a loose foot4 ,9 travell+ up or along big scree or mora9e1 balance & a su/a9$ rhy?m are ! ?+ to aim at4 ,on flat-/one mora9e1 /ep = ! middle ( ! /one2 on r\nd or corn]$ /ones1 #8dance' f "o upp] edge to ! next4 ,r ?an break ! rhy?m1 if no good hold1 or possibly only an insecure-look+ block1 pres5ts itself = ! next foot1 slack5 ! knee & put no weight on ! leg :ile y are us+ ! loose block2 skimm] ov] x ) ! dropp$ leg ( a horse at a big bank1 & tru/ to ! next /ep to br+ y up aga94 ,if y balance lightly & move fa/1 a mov+ foo?old is all b z good z a fix$ "o4 ,on mora9e ! axe is always our ?ird leg ( balance4 ,on long mora9es1 or 9 trav]s+ up or across scree slopes1 x saves lab\r 9 ! task ( *oos+ /ones to foll[ close beh9d ano!r man1 & let ! sw+ ( 8 feet draw y\rs me*anically on to ! foo?olds he has us$4 ,to desc5d light scree is "o ( ! *ief rew>ds ( a long climb+ day3 to desc5d big scree "o ( its wor/ p5ances4 ,! me?od falls m prop]ly "u ! section devot$ to ,glissad+4 ,,unusual ,,rock ,uns\nd rock is c\nt]*eck$ by an int5sification ( s\nd me?od4 ,to unusual rock we retort by an ext5sion ( our usual me?od4 ,x w\ld exagg]ate its importance to discuss its v>ieties 9 great] detail ?an has seem$ suffici5t 9 ! case ( normal rock4 ,a few in/ances w s]ve to %[ t our pr9ciples rema91 = all rock1 unalt]$4 ,slate has an insidi\s surface4 ,! expos$ edges1 or spillik9s1 ( /rata may always break "u a pull1 unless !y h all[$ u to grasp a suffici5cy ( ?ickness4 ,b slate has a worse trick4 ,9 *imney climb+1 if we are us+ ! usually safe & g5tle hold ( a ?ru/ ) ! flat foot1 or a press or pu% hold ) ! h&1 aga9/ ev5 a wide1 smoo? surface1 ! upp] sk9 may crack locally at an unc]ta9 di/ance f ! po9t ( pressure & all[ foot or h& to %oot into space2 & ?is always1 unless ! ?ru/ is appli$ exactly at "r angles to ! lie ( ! /rata4 ,our only safegu>d is to ext5d to pu% & press holds on slate our practice ) pull holds 9 g5]al1 & keep ! direction ( ! pressure con/ant ?r\gh all our lift+ movem5t4 ,qu>tz l$ges & b&s1 :i* are ! grateful solutions ( _m ( our cliff problems1 are trea*]\s4 ,qu>tz brittles (f1 9 cry/als or 9 masses1 9 unexpect$ directions4 ,we _c te/ x adequately until our full weight comes ^u x2 :5 x may be too late4 ,& s we nev] /ep on to project+ qu>tz1 or scale ! v]tical face ( a seam1 unless we h h& or foot hold ^u good rock above or bel[ x4 ,happily1 qu>tz seams are usually n>r[4 ,we pref] s(t-sol$ %oes1 :i* w di/ribute ! pressure ov] ! unev5 facets4 ,boot-nails snap ! project+ cry/als or slide on ! flat facets1 especially aft] ra94 ,! f+]s simil>ly mu/ take g5]al holds1 & n tru/ to sali5t prisms4 ,! direction ( ! gr[? ( ! cry/als c guide u 9 apply+ our pressures4 ,a seam ly+ back at a /eep angle sometimes leaves good rock holds along its edges1 :]e qu>tz & rock h wea!r$ at an unequal rate4 ,a seam at a g5tle angle z (t5 provides a delightful trav]se ( escape4 ,s(t s&/one1 :i* 9 qu>ries & else:]e is frequ5tly us$ z a practice gr\nd1 has its own fa%ion ( s(t crumbl+ & its own body ( h>d5$ adh]5ts4 ,its outl9es are recognizable1 & 9 m\nta9 masses we avoid x altoge!r4 ,b ^? :o attempt x locally mu/ rememb] t x is peculi>ly deceptive = footwork4 ,its l$ges dissolve "u a /iff boot4 ,s& %oes1 or /ill bett]1 boots1 are ! only we>4 ,beg9n]s %\ld look = l9es ( asc5t :]e ! subjac5t heaps are /ill unc>t$ & propiti\s 9 ! ev5t ( failure4 ,old s&/one1 :5 x em]ges1 is firm] = ! feet b (f]s little h&hold1 & makes v fatigu+ climb+4 ,*alk1 & ! me?ods ( deal+ ) x1 =m a /udy by !mselves4 ,*alk climb+ provides ! miss+ l9k betwe5 rock & ice te*nique4 ,^? :o frequ5t its cliffs use big claws & ice me?ods1 & pron\nce x to be an unrivall$ tra9+ = ice "w4 ,its occasional h>d surface & its abundant project+ fl9ts1 ^: security is 9 inv]se ratio to _! graspability1 h to be treat$ ) ! measures ( precaution prop] to uns\nd rock4 ,m>ble builds peaks ( impos+ outl9e1 b its edges are n con/ruct$ ) an eye to good foot climb+4 ,its surfaces1 :]e expos$1 slope aga9/ u2 its slipp]9ess dictates ! use ( s(t soles2 :ile ! rubble ) :i* x is cumb]$ makes s(t soles com=tless4 ,x has appe>$ to me m (t5 dang]\s ?an difficult4 ,old lava is z tiresome z qu>tz1 & less (t5 available z a la/ res\rce4 ,desp]ately h>d = ! feet1 x yet snaps out 9 diamond cubes & litt]s ) wr5*+ rubble its already j>r+ surface4 ,i "k ( no s\nd climbs ^u x4 ,grit/one has its own devotees & a gr[+ lit]ature4 ,its climbs & _! mosaic p]ils h all ! *>m ( a well-execut$ m9iature4 ,lime/one1 z ! layman uses ! t]m1 is deceitful1 & (f]s ridicul\sly little good climb+ 9 proportion to ! am\nt ( x t protrudes plausibly f ! surface ( ,europe4 ,"o ( ! close/ escapes ,i h exp]i5c$ 0 f a spontane\s fall ( lime/one rock on a v5]able & bl&-look+ we/]n cliff4 ,9 ! =m ( #8dolomite' x (f]s v agreeable %>p-edg$ dw>f-climbs ev5 9 our isl&s1 & x is to be regrett$ we h s little ( good /ature4 ,sid5ote3 ,9 ,qu>ries4 ,scrambl+ 9 home qu>ries1 on *alk1 gravel1 blue-/one1--all k9ds ( rock1--is excell5t practice4 ,! surfaces are1 h[ev]1 raw & untemp]$ by "t1 & ! crude fractures & l$ges by :i* we climb are made by man & survive by no natural law ( ! fitte/4 ,no exp]i5ce ( rock /ructure c !re=e suffice to all[ ( calculation ^u _! security4 ,ea* hold mu/ be sep>ately te/$ be=e use4 ,! risk is g5]ally out ( all proportion to ! height4 ,a rope f above %\ld be us$ on any passage ( d\bt4 ,sid5ote3 ,along ,sea ,cliffs4 ,sea cliffs h _m vot>ies4 ,x is p]haps ungrateful to class !m z unusual rock1 b _! unfamili> conditions1 _! wave-poli%$ & (t5 und]cut bases1 _! summits artificially sculptur$ & con/antly /ra9$ & fractur$ afre% by ! fall ( ! cliff bel[1 exclude !m f a normal category4 ,_! *>m lies 9 _! v>iety ( rock1 reveal$ 9 =ms p5sive1 brood+1 surpris$1 jovial or defiant1 ^u headl&1 isl& & /ack4 ,!re are few m exhil>at+ scrambles ?an ! granite outcrops ( ,cornwall1 set 9 gre5 seas1 surf-spray & sunlight4 ,! upp] end ( ! coa/ ( ,su!rl&%ire alone provides eight or n9e diff]5t v>ieties ( rock1 & !re=e ( asc5ts4 ,! :ole isl& ( ,s>k c be circumambulat$ at ab\t ! mid-height ( its cliffs4 ,trav]ses are ! peculi> prop]ty ( sea cliffs1 :i* are (t5 awkw>d or impossible ( approa* f _! base = m direct asc5t4 ,:ole days1 9 fact if x 7 desirable a :ole holiday lifetime ( delightfully v>i$ trav]s+ at diff]5t levels may be _h along ! cliffs1 high or l[1 ( ! we/ coa/s ( ,scotl& & ( its isl&s1 ( ,irel&1 ( ,engl&1 & ( p>ts ( ,wales4 ,! nor? coa/ ( ,irel& has attractive sections alt]nat+ 9 ?is in/ance ) p9nacles & sc>ps ( decad5t bl5ds4 ,usually ! return f su* trav]ses c be made 9 ! ev5+ up a gully1 by :i* we resume1 if we wi%1 on ! morr[4 ,z a la/ res\rce 9 difficulties !re is always ! sea = a head] ( escape4 ,rubb] soles are ! be/ we>2 or1 = "s v>ieties1 raw s(t hide ) ! hair on1 z worn 9 ! we/ ( ,irel&2 b rubb] is1 ( c\rse1 trea*]\s on wet or we$y tidal rocks4 ,?is fact %\ld be rememb]$ 9 our /imulat+ races ) ! waves = ! foot ( a promis+ crack4 ,dur+ ! novitiate ev5 h>dy heads mu/ bew>e ( ! intimidat+1 (t5 v]tig9\s1 effect produc$ by ! con/ant movem5t ( wat] bel[ ! feet4 ,bo? ! s\nd & ! motion are f\nd to react almo/ unconsci\sly ^u t\gh5$ climb+ n]ves4 ,! cliffs ( ! ea/ coa/ ( ,engl& consi/ too (t5 ( subsid+ clay & wat]1 or ( a h>d pebbly conglom]ate2 b !y provide at lea/ unusual climb+4 ,a good e>? glissade c occasionally be f\nd d[n _! rifts2 & e section af=ds opportunity = a cauti\s scramble or an +5i\s trick r\te4 ,on ! h>d] e>? & pebble mixtures !re is sometimes occasion = /ep-cutt+ practice4 ,! cliff edges frequ5tly ov]hang1 & pres5t all ! dang]s ( unse5 cornices if approa*$ f above1 & m ?an _! difficulties if rea*$ f bel[4 ,boots are be/ on ^! ea/ cliffs4 ,v]tigo is unkn[n1 s9ce ! waves are all too r>ely 9 close proximity to ! cliffs6 ,irel&1 on ! ea/1 is m =tunate2 x possesses "s f9e firm /acks & cliffs4 ,p>ts also ( ! ea/ cliffs ( ,scotl& are excell5t4 ,sid5ote3 ,on ,freaks4 ,"s regions are ri* 9 incid5tal pill>s1 p9nacles1 /acks1 ne$les1 p9s1 f+]s1 b\ld]s1 erratics 7#8(f-comduns'71 ,well+ton's ,noses1 ,grey ,ladies1 ,devil's dome/ic ut5sils1 or _! fanta/ic l4 ,x is difficult to connect ! records ( _! 7p]iodic7 fir/ conque/s ) any g5]al pr9ciples except ^? =m+ ! gr\ndwork ( a local lit]>y reputation4 ,a long rope ov] ! summit w\ld seem to be ! prelim9>y to _m su* a climb1 & /atuesque photography its culm9ation4 ,b betwe5 ^! extremes a p]ipatetic climb] c f9d _m joy\s & g5tle passages1 :]e he may ev5 rema9 anonym\s if he goes arm$ only ) su* s\nd me?od z ! type ( rock sugge/s1 & %od ) s(t soles4 ,"o exp]i5c$ companion w\ld be f\nd ( m s]vice ?an _m onlook]s2 & a tradition ( classical m\nta9e]+ dem&s t ! rope betwe5 two m5 %\ld n pass ov] ! summit be=e ei!r has />t$4 ,to save "t1 once1 :5 we 7 cross+ a s]ies ( smoo? ne$les two ( u agre$ to climb cont9u\sly1 9 ! hope t if ! man desc5d+ on ! f> side ( "o ne$le slipp$ 7z 0 ! m probable7 ! man on its ne> side w\ld be assi/$ to ! summit m quickly by ! rope2 & s no impulse w\ld be wa/$4 ,unhappily1 x 0 ! re> man1 asc5d+1 :o slipp$1 & at a mom5t :51 ow+ to ! l5g? ( ! rope1 ! front man 0 already himself asc5d+ ! next ne$le4 ,nei!r1 at all ev5ts1 0 left long 9 susp5se4 ,b\ld]+ is ! pleasante/ ( (f-day di/ractions2 b too _m m5 all[ !mselves to sp5d ! "t on ! m]ely difficult4 ,its use %\ld be = safe ex]cises on rules ( /yle4 ,:5 y c climb an easy block )\t y\r h&s1 or balance up a wall ) su* light f+]-hold t a fri5d c pass 8 h& "u y\rs1 or h discov]$ h[ to solve a %elf climb by a pu% hold & a twi/+ arm-lev]1 y h made a fair te/ t w be ( future use4 ,to wre/le up pure difficulty1 su* z y w\ld n attempt 9 expos$ high] climb+1 by d9t ( muscle & /r5uosity1 proves no?+ & does no good2 x only r$uces ! re/ful value ( ! (f-day4 ,our object on su* unusual rock %\ld be to extract f x ! s\nde/ practice = our usual me?od4 ,,climb+ ,,d[n ,x is m difficult to climb d[n ?an to climb up4 ,s long z ! majority ( rock climb]s cont9u$ to grip & /ruggle1 !y c\ld f9d no pleasure 9 desc5d+4 ,! *>act]s ( our hills abett$ ! neglect4 ,! lab\r ( ! day w5t 9 f9d+ ! /eep climb & !n =c+ a way up x2 !re rema9$ = ! ev5+ too great a *oice ( easy slopes to run d[n4 ,ev5 9 ! ,alps ! habit foll[$ ! e>ly rock climb]2 he 0 too ready to *oose a peak 8:i* w\ld give pl5ty ( sport on ! asc5t1 & an easy sn[-r\te d[n40 ,dur+ our gully & grip epo*s1 :5 ?is self-impos$ limitation 0 almo/ univ]sal1 rock climb+ rea*$ its fur!/ po9t ( div]g5ce f real m\nta9e]+4 ,! developm5t ( balance climb+ p]=ce broke d[n ! tradition4 ,climb+ d[n _h to be le>n$ :5 really big m\nta9e]+ 0 attempt$4 ,:]e m\nta9s h no easy ways d[n1 x is z important to be able to desc5d z to asc5d4 ,on new or difficult climbs ! me?od & "t-calculation = a return 9 case ( failure call = m =e?\ght ?an ! asc5t itself4 ,b beyond ?is1 climb+ d[n 0 discov]$ to h its own pleasure z motion4 ,a good climb] 9 tra9+1 & desc5d+ ^u rock t gives cont9u\s hold1 enjoys a s5se ( swift re/ra9$ rhy?m1 & a ru%+ ?rill ?r\gh 8 own extremities1 t has some?+ ( ! pleasure ( fly+ & a pleasure f quick light contacts t ev5 fly+ does n possess4 ,8 h&s & feet appe> to adh]e almo/ accid5tally und]nea? him1 l ! spokes ( a revolv+ rimless :eel4 ,!y move across a s\nd hold ) 8 *ange ( balance r ?an *eck him at ea* contact4 ,8 eye has select$ a :ole succession ( small holds ahead1 or r afoot4 ,he balances d[n !m z a complem5t>y sequ5ce4 ,he does n ask ( e hold t x %\ld become ! basis = a fre% beg9n+4 #8,t\* & pass' z contra/$ ) #8grip & hang' p]haps sums up ! me?od4 ,( c\rse ea* hold mu/ 9 itself be adequate to *eck & direct ! passage ( ! body1 o!rwise mom5tum is acquir$1 & ! me?od might be def9$ ) ju/ice z only a f9e fa%ion ( fall+4 ,! *eck is di/ribut$ ov] a s]ies ( holds1 ea* ( :i* s]ves only to ret>d ! d[nw>d movem5t j suffici5tly to direct x1 ) no acquir$ impetus1 on to ! next hold4 ,! holds on su* a passage complem5t "o ano!r4 ,ea* is us$ transi5tly b safely1 because ! action ( ! next is anticipat$4 ,! def9ite arre/-po9ts ( c\rse occur1 b !y are select$ by ! eye at long] conv5i5t int]vals4 ,to read rock holds & _! balance values ahead 9 ?is fa%ion requires a m practis$ eye & judgm5t ?an 7 ne$$ m]ely to decide on ! reliability ( ! next grip hold4 ,x 0 ?is art ( ! long] glance1 ! practice ( desc5d+ z a regulat$ movem5t r ?an z a succession ( /ances & re/s1 :i* rock climb]s neglect$1 & /ill too l>gely neglect4 ,! %ortness ( our isl& climbs1 z our "y climb]s increas$ 9 numb]s & 9 ambition1 drove !m to ! discov]y ( a rapid progression ( m & m difficult v>iations4 ,^! climbs c\ld n be asc5d$ #8cont9u\sly4' ,! art ( cont9u\s up-climb+ 0 almo/ =gott51 & ) x disappe>$ any idea t cont9u\s d[n-climb+ ne$ ev5 be practis$4 ,! /r5u\s up-climb exhau/$ our int]e/ 9 a p>ticul> s]ies ( problems2 ! prospect ( a simil>ly #8int]rupt$' desc5t ( ! same places seem$ r bor+2 9 fact1 we pref]r$ to run d[n an easy way1 & beg9 ^u a new asc5t ( new problems4 ,climb+ d[n jo9$ climb+ cont9u\sly1 up or d[n1 9 a limbo1 f :i* x _h to be desp]ately rescu$ :5 we w5t to ! ,alps or to regions ( long] climbs4 ,"s ye>s ago1 on p]ceiv+ t ! neglect 0 spoil+ ! /yle & a*ievem5t ( climb] aft] climb] ( ! ,briti% s*ool :o came out to ! ,alps1 ,i v5tur$ to publi% some?+ ( a prote/4 ,happily ?is made a few important conv]ts4 ,& n[ x w\ld appe> t ! evil spell is brok54 ,no good cragsman w\ld n[adays seem to be happy until he has done 8 f9e rock climb bo? ways2 a few are beg9n+ to specialize ^u desc5ts4 ,! admirable practice ( trav]s+ or #8girdl+' great cliffs1 :i* involves ! asc5t & desc5t ( ! /eepe/ sections ( _m difficult climbs1 has f9ally plac$ climb+ up & climb+ d[n on a foot+ ( m\nta9e]+ equality4 ,x may be said t ?is result 0 inevitable once balance climb+ _h come to its own4 ,once ! eye & ! body 7 set free f _! conf9+ & convulsive habit1 x c\ld n be long be=e h&s & feet op5$ up ! new ways ( pleasure 9 mov+ d[nw>ds & sideways z readily z upw>d4 ,we h made a great /ep 9 advance3 we practise climb+ d[n z an art 9 ,brita91 b we h /ill a long way to g 9 develop+ our practice ( #8cont9u\s' climb+1 d[n ev5 m ?an up4 ,i h se5 ! />t ( _m ( our f9e/ isl& rock climb]s 9 ! ,alps1 m5 ^: feats on difficult rock /ill /& unsurpass$1 & ,i h nev] se5 "o :o1 :5 he came out1 0 ev5 ! equal ( a good av]age guide 9 cont9u\s go+ on mod]ate or /eep rock1 especially 9 desc5d+4 ,^! m5 quickly recogniz$ _! defect :5 !y saw ! /yles contra/$1 & set !mselves to correct x4 ,b o!rs1 :o h gone guideless & nev] enjoy$ ! opportunity ( comp>ison1 h cont9u$ ev5 9 ! ,alps _! int]rupt$ me?od &1 consequ5tly1 h a*iev$ a degree ( p]=mance 9 no way equal to _! real /&>d ( climb+ ability4 ,a v illum9at+ in/ance 0 t ( "o ( ! greate/ ( our rock pione]s1 ^: /yle 0 z f9i%$ & delib]ate z 8 ent]prise 0 rem>kable4 ,aft] _m ye>s ( climb+ 9 our isl&s1 ) an unrivall$ record1 & ( climb+ guideless 9 ! ,alps1 ) practically no?+ to %[ = x1 he sp5t "o season1 lat] 9 life1 ) a fa/ fir/-class guide4 ,z a result he1 admitt$ly1 *ang$ 8 :ole habit1 & subsequ5tly climb$ ) an accompli%$ cont9uity t )\t dim9i%+ 8 security multipli$ 8 am\nt ( p]=mance ?ree & f\r fold4 ,climb+ d[n requires m practice ?an climb+ up1 because ! me*anism ( ! body is contriv$ m conv5i5tly = upw>d movem5t1 & because we h eyes 9 our head & n 9 our toes or heels4 ,! eye has to le>n to select its holds f awkw>d angles4 ,! h&s & feet h to le>n accurately to foll[ ! eye's *oice1 9 movem5ts me*anically m difficult to execute4 ,consequ5tly 9 desc5d+ ! incl9ation to grip & hang becomes ev5 /rong] ?an 9 asc5d+1 & until ! "r attitudes become in/9ctive x requires "s resolution to =ce ! body /eadily outw>d until x is 9 balance ov] its foo?olds & is n dep5d+ f ! h&s4 ,once ! natural imp$im5ts are ma/]$ ! ga9 to pace & to security :i* we obta9 f our balance & foot me?od soon makes ev5 ! memory ( our desire to cl+ /range4 ,! muscul> /ra9 is less4 ,we are free to use ! friction ( ! body1 9 any "p1 to regulate ! pace or sugge/ direction4 ,! body desc5ds naturally on to firm positions on ! feet1 & /&s ready )\t readju/m5t ( balance or holds to give any assi/ance requir$ to ! man bel[ on ! rope4 ,x is on cont9u\s desc5d+1 & on ! managem5t ( ! rope ?is involves1 t ! improvem5t 9 our me?od has _h mo/ effect4 ,! pr9ciple ( desc5t 9 balance is to keep face outw>ds or face sideways z long z possible4 ,9 su* positions our eye comm&s bo? ! :ole rope & ! rock almo/ cont9u\sly1 & we c decide at any in/ant :e!r we %\ld proce$1 or pause1 or taut5 ! rope on ! man bel[4 ,x is almo/ />tl+ to see a fir/-class m\nta9e] come d[n /eep rock1 z la/ man1 9 a s]ies ( well-tim$ ru%es1 :ile he /ill protects ! cont9u\s desc5t ( 8 less exp]t front-m54 ,he nev] all[s ! rope to slack54 ,he keeps ! safety *eck :ile ! man 9 front is mov+2 b 9 any int]vals 8 lightn+ ru%es make up ! necess>y gr\nd4 ,9 desc5d+1 a slight t5sion ( ! rope is suffici5t to *eck a weak climb]1 :]eas 9 go+ up he w\ld h requir$ a h>d pull2 & a light guide or a quick amateur1 judg+ 8 mom5ts well1 c #8an*or' & secure ! safe desc5t ( a :ole rope ( heavy-weights bel[ him1 & yet nev] *eck _! progress :ile he int]polates 8 own flights ( desc5t4 ,sid5ote3 ,positions4 ,9 desc5d+1 s long z is conv5i5tly possible1 & practice alone discov]s h[ mu* long] ! position is t5able ?an appe>s to u at fir/1 ! face %\ld be kept turn$ outw>d4 ,s soon z ! outw>d position becomes insecure1 t is1 :5 no?+ b holds = ! heels pres5t !mselves & ! balance is felt to be ?ru/ out by ! /eepness ( ! rock beyond ! feet1 ?us ?r[+ a cl++ /ra9 ^u ! h&s1 ! body %\ld be turn$ sideways to ! rock4 ,only z a la/ extremity1 on p]p5dicul> or ov]hang+ rock :]e ! eye is no long] ( use to f9d foo?olds1 %\ld ! face be turn$ 9 to ! rock1 9 ! position mo/ natural = asc5d+4 ,sid5ote3 ,fac+ ,outw>d4 ,9 ! face-outw>d position ! action ( ! feet rema9s /ill t ( ! balance /ep4 ,= easy movem5t foo?olds %\ld be select$1 if ! *oice (f]s1 outside1 to "r & left ( ! v]tical desc5d+ l9e1 r ?an directly bel[ ! body4 ,! legs are us$ z t5se spr+s to break ! j>4 ,9 fact1 ! motion is t ( #8danc+ d[n4' ,! heels are little us$2 ! toes & sides ( ! feet take ! holds1 mu* z 9 asc5d+4 ,! h&s h to f9d _! hang holds or pressure holds at ! level ( ! ?ighs or knees4 ,= ! hang holds ! knuckles are turn$ backw>ds1 on ei!r side ( ! body1 & ! f+]s grip ! rock mu* z 9 asc5d+4 ,= ! pressure holds ! heels ( ! h&s are press$ d[nw>d on to ! l$ges1 close to ! sides1 & re/ 9 ! position ( a rev]s$ pu% hold4 ,x %\ld be rememb]$ t ?is la/ fa%ion ( hold1 always ! mo/ tempt+ 9 />t+ a desc5d+ movem5t1 becomes useless & ev5 dang]\s because ( ! outw>d ?ru/ ( ! arm1 s soon z ! wai/ has sunk bel[ ! level ( ! h&s4 ,= ?is reason1 be=e l[]+ d[n on ?is hold we mu/ make sure t ! rea* = ! leg to ! next foo?old w be %ort4 ,9 ! face-outw>d position ! h&s c be reliev$ ( mu* ( _! ef=t 9 hold+ by ! backw>d or sideways pressures ( ! calf1 ( ! back ( ! ?igh1 or ev5 ( ! elb[ or %\ld]1 aga9/ ! rock4 ,a twi/ ( ! firm knee 9 a conv5i5t angle ( ! rock1 or a sidelong #8/eady' ) ! heel ( ! firm foot aga9/ ! back or side ( its rock hold1 gives u (t5 balance en\gh to all[ ! o!r foot to desc5d )\t us+ ! h&s at all4 ,?is is :at is really happ5+ 9 ! #8ru%+' movem5ts allud$ to above4 ,! exp]t is us+ any & e "p ( him1 f ankle to elb[ or %\ld]1 = friction & balance t\*es :ile 8 feet desc5d2 & consequ5tly he has bo? h&s free to tight5 or pull 9 ! rope z he goes1 ev5 9 mid /ep4 ,! eyes1 s9ce !y c see un9t]rupt$ly1 guide ! feet accurately4 ,elb[s1 legs1 ?ighs1 etc41 by judici\s t\*es help out ! balance & relieve ! h&s to a l>ge ext5t = o!r "w4 ,sid5ote3 ,fac+ ,sideways4 ,! sideways position1 :i* is admirably adapt$ = balanc$ climb+1 is /ill all too seldom practis$4 ,climb]s in/9ctively turn face inw>d ! in/ant ! holds get small or ! rocks /eep4 ,b to turn sideways is saf]1 because ! eye c see bo? holds & rope1 & ! body is 9 a good position to adju/ itself = an*or+2 x is bett] suit$ to ! normal lie ( holds1 because holds r>ely occur 9 v]tical sequ5ce on rock1 & a diagonal desc5t is (t5 possible :]e direct desc5t is int]rupt$2 & x is m 9 balance4 ,= 9 ! sideways position ! s+le h& employ$ takes ! natural hold1 su* z x is accu/om$ to use 9 asc5d+3 ei!r a cl+ hold1 or ev5 m (t5 a l[] pu% hold re9=c$ by an inw>d curv+ ( ! arm t[>ds ! rock z a lev]4 ,! out] h& is left free to manage ! rope or to use ! axe4 ,! feet fall naturally into position on ! l$ges1 ) ! side ( ! foot1 & n m]ely ! toe1 on ! hold4 ,! flex ( ! knee & ?igh works p>allel to ! face ( ! rock2 & nei!r ! b5d+ ( ! knee1 z happ5s :ile desc5d+ face inw>d1 nor ! curve ( ! flank1 z 9 desc5d+ face outw>d1 c get 9 ! way ( an easy l[]+ ( ! body above ! firm foot4 ,! climb] also1 z he leans out to ! full l5g? ( "o arm1 is f> m free to prospect 8 desc5t 9 advance4 ,la/ly1 :ile actually m com=tably balanc$1 a man s desc5d+ is 9 a bett] discretion>y position to adopt any alt]native attitude1 face inw>d or outw>d1 by a half turn on ! foot1 accord+ z 8 l>g] range ( vision advises4 ,9 trav]s+ ! big ridges or cross+ ! great rock faces ( ! ,alps a l>ge proportion ( ! climb+ mu/ be done 9 ?is sideways attitude4 ,economy ( ef=t1 ease ( balance1 & ! c>riage ( rope & axe 9 a free h& dem& x4 ,! te*nique is "o t x is ess5tial to ma/]1 & once acquir$ x w be f\nd to become ! normal position = pace & com=t 9 desc5d+4 ,sid5ote3 ,fac+ ,inw>d4 ,x is ! exception :5 ! conditions make x imp]ative to turn ! body face inw>d4 ,! occasions are ! desc5t ( v]tical or r\nd$ convex surfaces1 ( ov]hang+ #8cave pit*es' & ! l1 :]e ! holds d n p]mit ( an upright or balanc$ position1 & :]e ! legs h to be swung 9 und]nea? & out ( sight 9 ord] to f9d ! next holds = ! feet4 ,"h1 if x is m ?an ! "q ( a /ep or s1 !re c be no "q ( ! :ole p>ty mov+ toge!r4 ,! rope is !re=e dropp$ f ! h&1 s9ce bo? h&s w be ne$$ to l[] ! :ole weight dur+ ! movem5t4 ,z soon z ! feet c f9d hold1 ! balance %\ld be readju/$ ^u !m1 & ! eyes set free to look r\nd aga9 & prospect4 ,ev5 ?\gh x may appe> to be m com=table & safe to cont9ue 9 a jamm$ or face inw>d position aft] x ceases to be absolutely indisp5sable1 ! incl9ation %\ld be resi/$4 ,! long] ! duration ( ! face inw>d desc5t1 ! long] mu/ cont9ue ! int]ruption to ! advance ( ! :ole rope4 ,x is "o ( ! pr9cipal objections to ?is position1 :i* is individually safe en\gh1 t x necessitates an int]ruption & break ( rhy?m = ! p>ty4 ,climb]s1 f an in/9ct ( safety1 turn into x too frequ5tly1 & cont9ue x too long1 9 places :]e a sideways desc5t if ! problem be a slab1 or a face outw>d /raddle if x be a /eep *imney1 w\ld be ! correct] & quick] me?od4 ,x is n only ret>d+ 9 its effect on ! rope1 x is always sl[ 9 actual p]=mance4 ,m5 move into x pond]\sly & reluctantly if !y h be5 face outw>ds be=e4 ,!y cont9ue 9 x sl[ly1 because !y _c see & are us+ cl++ me?ods2 & a natural reluctance to take ! slight risk ( turn+ r\nd aga9 be=e !y h rea*$ a l>ge #8turn+' /ance makes !m keep ! position usually long] ?an ! difficulties dem&4 ,mean:ile ! :ole p>ty waits4 ,if a man is a practis$ sideways climb] he c turn into ?is face inw>d attitude :5 necess>y1 & out aga9 ! mom5t he f9ds balance foo?old1 ) a m9imum ( *eck to ! rope4 ,f a sideways position he has only got to br+ r\nd 8 o!r h&1 & he is ready to climb face inw>d = z long z he has e/imat$ w be ne$$4 ,sid5ote3 ,d[n ,*imneys or ,cracks4 ,9 jamm+ d[n *imneys or cracks ! face outw>d or sideways positions are always to be pref]r$4 ,! eye1 free to select1 c g5]ally f9d foo?olds close or f> out on ! side-walls1 :i* w\ld be invisible to ! face inw>d position4 ,if ^! holds fail1 ! jam ) out/ret*$ arms1 or knee or ?igh or %\ld] aga9/ ! conta9+ walls1 is /ill always saf] = a man 9 ! outw>d & sideways attitudes1 unless he be on an absolute ov]hang4 ,at ! same "t1 s9ce 8 h&s are free 9 desc5d+ sideways or outw>ds1 he c /ill manage ! rope ev5 9 8 mom5ts ( desc5t1 & s save any *eck to ! progress ( ! p>ty4 ,:]eas 9 ! face inw>d position ! h&s are useless except = holds4 ,i h se5 a guide s]p5t9+ d[n a crack ( ?is sort1 face outw>d1 by ! pressure ( 8 %\ld]s & ?ighs aga9/ ! walls alone4 ,! fact t he 0 free to wat* ! p>ty ev5 :ile he mov$ d[n enabl$ him to anticipate ! slip ( a climb] bel[2 & he took ! :ole pull ^u "o quick outw>d pressure ( 8 knees & arms aga9/ ! side walls4 ,an av]age climb]1 ) ! slighte/ ( holds = 8 feet1 9 ?is attitude c hold practically any usual weight4 ,x is a "q ( balance & judgm5t4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,rope 9 ,cont9u\s ,desc5t4 ,to secure ! safety ( ! p>ty on ! desc5t a "r position w d mu*4 ,a man :o climbs face outw>d or face sideways is ready me*anically to take a v consid]able & sudd5 /ra94 ,b a "r use ( ! rope ov] ! accid5ts ( ! rock w enable him to d /ill m4 ,on /eep or uns\nd rock we are always on gu>d aga9/ ! unexpect$ slip or ! break+ hold4 ,!re=e1 :ile on ! rope1 we note at e /ep h[ we are plac$ to take a j]k4 ,if we are all mov+ toge!r d[n /eep rock we note1 z we pass1 e corn] or po9t r\nd :i* we c\ld ) a s+le motion ( ! h& ?r[ ! rope z an #8an*or' 9 case a man bel[ u slipp$4 ,if we are all mov+ quickly1 & !re=e presumably a safe p>ty1 we ne$ n d m ?an note !m4 ,b if ! p>ty is weak1 or we are mov+ int]rupt$ly1 !n1 no matt] h[ easy our own sector1 we %\ld n only note b use po9ts suitable = ! an*or4 ,x mu/ be rememb]$ t su* an*or+ on a desc5t is design$ to assure ! balance ( ! /ation>y man1 9 case ( a sudd5 j]k2 & only indirectly to support ! man desc5d+ bel[4 ,! actual pull ( a slip1 if x comes1 %\ld be tak5 up on ! arm1 b nev] directly on ! rock an*orage4 ,x is useful = e "o to practise ?is cursive an*or+ on any desc5t :i* is too /eep to all[ ( ! p>ty mov+ really rapidly toge!r4 ,!re w be "t !n to sw+ ! rope ov] & (f ! po9ts z we pass !m1 )\t *eck4 ,once ! trick is acquir$1 ! eye w g on in/9ctively always select+ ! an*ors1 b ! actual movem5ts we c discont9ue4 ,habit w at once make ! movem5ts actual aga9 :]ev] exp$i5t1--on all desc5ts ( m$ium difficulty1 or on easy desc5ts :]e a slip might h dang]\s consequ5ces1 su* z ! edge ( a l(ty ridge1 or an easy gall]y above a %e] wall4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,d\bl$ ,rope4 ,x is a s\nd g5]al rule t a climb] has nev] be5 ju/ifi$ 9 go+ on up :]e he f9ds t he _c get d[n )\t fix+ a rope4 ,n[ t good cragsm5 consid] no?+ ma/]$ unless x has be5 climb$ bo? ways1 ! occasions = ! fix$ rope are or %\ld be r>e4 ,b !re are exceptions1 & 9 su* cases we use ! #8d\bl$ rope4' ,! fir/ w\ld be ! case ( a p>ty desc5d+ by a l9e :i* !y h n previ\sly asc5d$1 or :i* has nev] be5 asc5d$ or desc5d$ at all--a n infrequ5t exp]i5ce 9 mak+ new trav]ses ( peaks4 ,9 ?is case a d\bl$ rope may be ! only me?od ( desc5d+ a holdless passage4 ,b :5 he employs x 9 su* places a climb] is aga9 tak+ a s]i\s responsibility1 suppos+ t he judges x to be a place :i* he c\ld n reasc5d4 ,he mu/ be c]ta9 f obs]vation t ! re/ ( ! desc5t w g bel[1 or he w be cutt+ (f 8 retreat unju/ifiably4 ,if he _c make suffici5tly c]ta91 ! d\bl$ rope %\ld be left beh9d s t ! reasc5t may be possible if a return becomes necess>y4 ,! second exception is ! *ange t is (t5 produc$ by a *ange ( wea!r4 ,a fall ( sn[1 or an ice-glaz+ on ! rocks1 may make a desc5t bo? difficult & dang]\s :]e ! asc5t on dry rocks 0 s\nd4 ,9 ?is case con/ant use ( ! d\bl$ rope may be ! only *ance ( ensur+ a safe desc5t4 ,su* *anges are n infrequ5t 9 ! ,briti% ,isles z well z 9 ! ,alps1 & !y are ! mo/ try+ occasions 9 a m\nta9e]'s exp]i5ce4 ,a picnic asc5t ( an easy buttress may be1 & has be5 9 ,wales1 turn$ by a light %[] ( ra91 freez+ imm$iately into a coat ( v]glas on ! rocks1 into a dang]\s duel ( desc5t aga9/ d>kness & difficulty2 & a joy\s frolic up ! walls ( an aiguille above ! ,m] de ,glace1 ow+ to a hail/orm t coat$ ! rocks ) freez+ p>ticles1 has become a prolong$ wre/le ) fate1 dem&+ pa9ful h\rs :]e ! asc5t took m9utes1 & necessitat+ ! desc5t ( almo/ e foot ( ! ?\s&-metre wall by ea* man 9 turn on ! #8long rope' or ! #8d\bl$ rope4' ,! ?ird exception is :5 x is necess>y = ! la/ man to save "t 9 a race ) d>kness4 ,!n1 aft] lett+ ! re/ d[n1 he foll[s on ! #8d\ble' z fa/ z he c4 ,& ! la/ is ! r>e case :5 x is expressly int5d$ to =ce ! desc5t ( a passage :i* has defeat$ all attempts to asc5d4 ,9 su* case we use all ! help t we ne$ = safety4 ,! d\ble rope c be us$ 9 ^! cases ( difficulty or ha/e to assi/ ! desc5t ( e memb] ( a p>ty4 ,usually x is only to protect ! la/ man4 ,! me?od ( us+ ! #8d\ble' is to lay ! rope r\nd any po9t or knob :i* prev5ts x slipp+ (f "u an outw>d & d[nw>d /ra91 & f :i* x c be conv5i5tly releas$ by pull or flick f bel[4 ,if su* a g5]ally com=table po9t is n discov]able1 a l5g? ( ! rope %\ld be cut (f & knott$ into a secure sl+1 :i* is w\nd 9 a triple coil r\nd any excresc5ce good en\gh to hold x p]man5tly secure4 ,! triple coil _c break "u ! friction1 & all[s ! rope to play ?r\gh m easily4 ,! rope to be us$ is !n pass$ ?r\gh ! sl+4 ,"s climb]s c>ry ready-made sl+s2 o!rs fav\r iron r+s1 :i* !y slip on to ! sl+s1 & !n pass ! rope ?r\gh ! r+4 ,! rope runs m easily1 b ,i h nev] lik$ ! practice4 ,a r+ c nev] be c>ri$ ( suffici5t size to use on m ?an a s+le ?ickness ( rope1 to say no?+ ( a safe triple sl+4 ,& n only is ! s+le sl+ m likely to snap "u ! rub ( ! h>d r+ z we desc5d ?an "u ! m spr+y pull ( ano!r rope pass$ ?r\gh x1 b if left x is m likely to be a dang] to ! next p>ty desc5d+4 ,guides are always ready to use a f9i%$-look+ piece ( me*anism1 l a r+ on a loop1 )\t te/+ x fully1 :]e !y w\ld be suspici\s ( a m]e wea!r$ sl+ ( rope4 ,! metal reassures j :]e x %\ld w>n !m2 = ! r+1 :]e x t\*es1 w h ru/$ into & eat5 ! rope /r&s4 ,! same po9t comes up "u ! head+ ( ,pegs & ,aids4 ,x mu/ always be rememb]$ t ! use ( ! sl+ or r+ involves unrop+1 :i* ! #8d\ble' on a good belay does n2 & 9 s f> x uses m "t4 ,= %ort desc5ts ! la/ man c use ! slack ( ! rope betwe5 himself & ! next man z a d\ble1 provid$ he sees t1 :5 d\bl$1 x w all[ him to desc5d z f> z 8 next /ance1 & !re leave him slack en\gh to flick x (f ! belay4 ,he %\ld always use ! d\ble z a fix$ rope1 t is1 x %\ld nev] be paid out to him r\nd ! belay1 z he desc5ds1 by ! man bel[2 nor %\ld he ev] attempt to pay x out to himself z he desc5ds on ! d\ble4 ,ei!r attempt w c]ta9ly fray ! rope r\nd ! belay1 possibly jam x1 & probably j]k x (f ! belay4 ,= any consid]able height x is bett] to use a sp>e d\bl$ rope4 ,9 ?is case ! la/ man c at once see if ! two ends ( ! d\ble rea* to ! next /ance bel[4 ,if no sp>e rope is available1 ! next man bel[ may h to unrope1 9 ord] to leave ! la/ man en\gh to d\ble & desc5d ^u4 ,if ! desc5t is ( exceptional difficulty1 e4g4 an ov]hang1 a sp>e rope %\ld always be us$4 ,! second1 or climb+1 rope r\nd ! la/ man's wai/ is !n held by ! man bel[1 z a protection 9 case ! ef=t ( cl++ to ! d\ble exhau/s ! la/ man's h&s2 or1 /ill bett]1 x also c be laid ov] ! belay & paid out to him1 lightly1 z he desc5ds4 ,z x w !n be slid+ ^u ! fix$ rope1 & !re w be no /ra9 ^u x1 x w be ! less likely to jam on ! belay1 fray or jump (f4 ,to desc5d on ! d\ble ! la/ man grasps bo? ropes 9 8 h&s imm$iately bel[ ! belay1 draw+ !m taut be=e he />ts to see t ! belay is rightly arrang$ = ! /ra94 ,he desc5ds1 us+ :at foo?olds he c on ! rock1 or1 fail+ !m1 by frankly sw>m+ d[n4 ,if he is unrop$ f 8 p>ty1 & us+ ! only rope z a d\ble1 a protection 9 case ( a slip is to tie bo? ends ( ! d\bl$ rope to 8 own wai/ be=e desc5d+4 ,! arms 9 su* desc5d+ %\ld be kept b5t4 ,! mo/ try+ po9t is j be=e he rea*es ! /ance1 :]e ! d\ble ropes are re/+ on ! l$ge & are no long] kept taut by _! own weight 9 susp5sion4 ,if ! climb] is us+ "o ( ! leg brakes bel[ describ$1 its t5sion w /ill keep ! ropes taut = 8 h&s4 ,if n1 & he is desc5d+ by h&s alone1 f9d+ :at foo?old he c ^u ! rocks1 he %\ld get ! man bel[ to pull on ! ends ( ! two ropes & keep !m taut till he is d[n4 ,if he is desc5d+ fir/ ( ! p>ty1 & !re=e !re is no "o bel[1 a conv5i5t device to ! same end is to sl+ 8 sack d[n on ! end ( ! ropes & leave x j susp5d$4 ,sid5ote3 ,brakes4 ,gloves protect ! h&s2 b long desc5ts are (t5 too great a /ra9 = amateur f+]s1 & ! *ance ( _! slipp+ or cramp+ _c be risk$4 ,9 ?is case "o ( ! foll[+ leg brakes %\ld be us$4 ,exp]i5c$ climb]s always use !m :]e foo?olds fail1 = h[ev] %ort a di/ance4 ,! ,foot ,brake4--,?is is ! commone/ device 9 gymnasium rope-climb+4 ,! body is turn$ sideways to ! rock1 ! d\ble rope inside x4 ,! tw9 ropes are caught up "u ! sole ( ! inside boot & out ov] ! in/ep ( ! outside boot4 ,! boot edges are cl5*$ ^u ! ropes betwe5 !m1 & ! am\nt ( friction ov] ! boots result+ all[s ! weight1 ) small ef=t ( boot cl5*+1 to slip 9 easy control d[n ! ropes4 ,! body is kept upright by ! h&s grasp+ ! rope above4 ,! ,?igh ,brake4--,?is is ! mo/ frequ5tly us$ 9 ! ,alps1 z rock desc5ts are seldom entirely v]tical or ov]hang+1 & a sudd5 extrusion ( rock "u ! feet :5 us+ ! foot brake upsets ! balance2 :]eas ) ! ?igh brake ! body c lie sideways aga9/ a project+ or convex curve ( rock1 & slide d[n ! boss1 sw++ to ! p]p5dicul> aga9 :]e x ends1 )\t ef=t at balanc+4 ,! "r me?od is to turn sideways to ! rock1 slightly raise ! outside ?igh1 pass ! d\ble rope "u x high up betwe5 ! legs1 & grip ! f>!r l5g?s ( rope s pass$ ) ! outside h&1 palm upw>ds4 ,! inside h& grasps ! tight5$ ropes above1 ) b5t arm1 at ab\t ! level ( ! head4 ,! outside h&1 by l[]+ or lift+ ! slack l5g?s bel[ or above ! level ( ! rais$ ?igh1 dim9i%es or increases ! friction ( ! rope r\nd ! ?igh1 & s controls ! pace4 ,if a complete re/ is ne$$1 ! outside h& m]ely br+s up its d\ble rope to jo9 t held by ! inside h&1 & a v light clasp ( ! two h&s toge!r on ! f\r ropes s unit$1 aid$ by ! almo/ total arre/ ( ! rope pass+ "u ! ?igh1 easily /ops ! desc5t4 ,x is a mi/ake1 b a frequ5t "o1 to />t ! rope r\nd ! inside ?igh4 ,r\nd ! outside ?igh is saf] & m com=table2 & x leaves ! inside leg free to use any foo?old t turns up4 ,! same fa%ion ( brake c be us$ "u ! foot in/ead ( "u ! outside rais$ ?igh4 ,b ?is necessitates hold+ ! leg v rigid1 & makes x m difficult to balance4 ,nor does ! rope run z smoo?ly "u ! boot z "u ! ?igh4 ,! ,body ,brake4--,?is brake1 :i* has sev]al v>iants1 ne$ practically nev] be us$4 ,! am\nt ( friction introduc$ dem&s ( a climb] almo/ m ef=t to pu% 8 way d[n ! rope 9 con/rict+ j]ks ?an he w\ld use 9 sw>m+ d[n x )\t a brake at all4 ,! simple/ =m is to pass ! d\ble rope "u bo? ?ighs slightly b5t1 back1 across & 9 front ( ! body1 & out1 r\nd & beh9d ! %\ld]s1 to ! control ( ! outside h&4 ,! ,*air4--,z ,i am deal+ ) ^! devices1 a note ^u ?is may n be out ( place4 ,except = an injur$ man x c r>ely be requir$ 9 desc5d+2 al?\gh ,i h1 on occasion1 employ$ x = a beg9n] :o c\ld n be tru/$ to manage any =m ( brake t left any?+ to 8 discretion4 ,b x may be f\nd ( use 9 excessively difficult passages ( asc5t1 :]e ! lead] has only got ?r\gh ) great difficulty & :]e ! possibility ( a less brilliant memb] ( 8 foll[+ hav+ to be haul$ up cle> on ! rope & rema9 susp5d$ = a p]ceptible "t makes x necess>y to f9d "s sort ( atta*m5t t w n suffocate him4 ,m5 v>y 9 _! resi/ance1 b no man c hang cle>1 on a rope ti$ r\nd 8 *e/1 = m ?an two m9utes )\t p>tial suffocation & consid]able pa94 ,9 asc5d+1 bo? h&s are ne$$ = climb+1 & no =m ( ! usual desc5d+ brake is !re=e suitable4 ,! *air is =m$ by mak+ two easy loops = ! ?ighs opposite "o ano!r on ! rope1 secur$ by a s\nd c5tral knot 7triple b[l9e74 ,?r\gh ^! loops ! climb] passes 8 legs1 z ?r\gh bree*es4 ,if he !n /raight5s 8 ?ighs1 he c sit 9 easy balance 9 ! loops2 b z security aga9/ fall+ out backw>ds he %\ld knot a sc>f or cord r\nd 8 body & make x fa/ to ! ma9 rope 9 front ( him4 ,9 ?is *air he is p]fectly free to climb & use 8 h&s & feet s long z !y help him2 & :5 he slips (f1 he sw+s com=tably cle> 9 8 loops4 ,he has only to rememb] to keep 8 body & ?ighs /raight1 s z n to sag backw>ds & d[nw>ds out ( ! sl+s4 ,! m5 above d ! re/4 ,! *air is mu* us$ by bird's-ne/+ cliff climb]s1 :o desire to keep _! h&s free1 & :o may h to rema9 susp5d$ = long p]iods4 ,sid5ote3 ,spr++ ! ,rope4 ,aft] ! la/ man is d[n on ! d\ble rope comes ! crucial mom5t1 :5 ! rope has to be run or #8sprung' (f ! belay f bel[4 ,no?+ is m irritat+1 or ( m frequ5t occurr5ce1 ?an to f9d t ! d\ble rope1 aft] runn+ a c]ta9 di/ance r\nd ! belay1 has /uck1 & t a labori\s & (t5 haz>d\s reasc5t1 tru/+ to its p>tial atta*m5t1 is necess>y 9 ord] to release x4 ,if ! belay has be5 well *os51 or ! sl+ well fix$1 x ought to run )\t difficulty4 ,to pull x (f )\t hit* x is ess5tial fir/ to see t !re is no knot 9 x1 especially at ! runn+ end1 :]e ! fatal knot belov$ ( guides & _m amateurs1 = purposes ( _! wai/-noose1 g5]ally lurks z a p]man5t ?reat4 ,! rope %\ld be pull$ r\nd ! belay sl[ly b cont9u\sly at fir/2 any re-/>t implies a dang]\s j]k t may entangle ! loose end z x jumps ab\t4 ,! la/ t5 feet are ! dang]1 = ! %ort1 sw++ loose end may at any second jam or cat* r\nd ! taut rope 9 its dance4 ,to break any slight friction or hit*1 & give ! end ( ! rope a spr++ release f its belay1 ^! la/ few feet %\ld be ru%$ ) a %>p cont9u\s pull by two or m ( ! p>ty1 :o mu/ !n look out = _! heads6 ,if !re is n suffici5t rope to all[ ( its be+ us$ z a d\ble rope d[n ! :ole desc5t requir$ to ! next /ance1 x is possible to atta* a r+ to "o end1 &1 putt+ ! end ) ! r+ r\nd ! belay1 to pass ! hang+ rope ?r\gh ! r+1 mak+ a sort ( runn+ noose4 ,! rope is !n us$ z a s+le1 n a d\ble1 fix$ rope = desc5t4 ,to loos5 x aft]w>ds1 x is necess>y at ! />t to tie an equal l5g? ( light cord to ! r+4 ,?is is pull$ f bel[1 dragg+ ! r+ d[nw>ds & ! rope aft] x r\nd ! belay4 ,i h nev] lik$ ! me?od1 & nev] se5 x "w prop]ly4 ,x incurs all ! disadvantages ( ! rope jamm+1 & ( ! s+le sl+ break+1 & gives only a s+le ?ickness ( slight alp9e rope to climb d[n4 ,x is v r>e t a climb] _c rea* "s sort ( a /ance by us+ all ! rope he has1 z a d\ble1 ev5 if he has no sp>e rope4 ,if he has1 = security1 to let ! re/ ( ! p>ty d[n f>!r to "s l>g] plat=m on ! :ole rope us$ z a #8long rope1' z la/ man he c usually f9d "s half-way /ance suffici5t to let him pull ! #8d\ble' d[n aft] him4 ,he c !n refix x1 or1 fail+ a belay1 desc5d ! re/ ( ! passage )\t ! d\ble1 fir/ rop+ on aga9 to ! m5 bel[1 & direct$ & help$ by _! advice z to 8 holds4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,long ,rope4 ,x infrequ5tly happ5s on big desc5ts t wea!r conditions1 giant slabs or decidu\s holds make x necess>y = a p>ty :ile desc5d+ to move d[n great] di/ances1 9 ord] to f9d safe /ances1 ?an _! all[ances ( rope w p]mit4 ,sometimes ea* memb] ( ! p>ty w h to be l[]$ a hundr$ feet or m1 n once1 b sev]al times 9 succession4 ,?is does n necess>ily imply t no holds are to be f\nd ov] all ?is di/ance1 or t ! individuals are n able to climb mu* ( x unaid$4 ,b once unrop+ has become necess>y1 & ! "t x takes is lo/ 9 any case1 x is quick] & saf] to let ea* man d[n ! full l5g? ( ! :ole rope at once1 s z to rea* "s really secure /ance :]e he c /ay unrop$ 9 safety :ile ! next desc5ds4 ,! :ole object1 !n1 %\ld be to save z mu* "t z possible4 ,! be/ way is = two m5 to rema9 9 *>ge ( ! rope above1 "o direct+ & l[]+1 ! o!r an*or+ & pay+ out4 ,nei!r ( !m ne$ necess>ily be atta*$ to ! rope1 provid$ x is well secur$4 ,! mom5t ! man bel[ rea*es safety he %\ld untie1 )\t los+ a second4 ,mean:ile1 ! next man to come c already h ti$ on to ! o!r loose end above1 & be beg9n+ 8 desc5t4 ,:ile "o man above holds him ! o!r pulls up ! loos5$ rope f ! man :o has f9i%$ desc5d+4 ,if ! rope is long en\gh1 & ! m5 prompt & n #8loose /one kick]s1' two m51 at suffici5t int]vals1 c be desc5d+ at ! "o "t1 on ei!r end ( ! rope2 :ile ! two ropes are manag$1 "o = ea* ( !m1 by ! l[]] & by ! an*or man above4 7,9 desc5d+ easy rocks ) two beg9n]s or weak climb]s1 a v>iant on ! same me?od s]ves excell5tly to save "t4 ,! exp]t ties himself on to ! rope betwe5 !m1 & lets !m bo? desc5d1 at int]vals1 ahead ( him4 ,he holds bo? _! ropes mean:ile1 & he foll[s himself :5 !y rea* security4 ,! same economical me?od c be us$ 9 asc5d+ easy rocks ) a l p>ty47 ,! la/ man1 :5 ! p>ty has us$ ! #8long rope' & ! rocks baffle ev5 8 skill 9 employ+ %ort1 crafty #8d\bles1' does be/1 if he has a good second1 to keep him close to him :5 _! turn comes to desc5d4 ,he lets ! second d[n to ! ne>e/ place he c /& at all1 & uses a d\ble or a %uffle d[n to him1 help$ by 8 directions or arms4 ,two good m5 ?us weav+ spells toge!r1 & keep+ ! cauldron bubbl+1 c %eph]d "o ano!r d[n passages ( toil & tr\ble :]e a la/ man w\ld require con/ant #8d\bles' to help him1 b w\ld conjure !m 9 va9 alone2 & :]e ! re/ may h _h to submit to ! full wit*-dance ( a desc5t ^u ! long rope4 ,,pegs ,,& ,,aids ,artificial aids h nev] be5 popul> ) u4 ,if a climb] does n feel safe 9 desc5d+1 he ought to practise on rock :i* he c climb1 n spoil rock :i* he _c ) blacksmi?'s leav+s4 ,if a security great] ?an rock c af=d him rema9s 8 object1 x w\ld be m consi/5t to fix up a ladd] or w9dlass at once4 ,i am told t a delightful contrivance--a pulley or block--has be5 adv]tis$1 :i* enables ! climb] to haul himself up or d[n )\t ef=t4 ,z to h[ we may fix ! pulley to draw ourselves up1 or unfa/5 x aft] we h desc5d$1 we h cle>ly only to adopt ! me?od foll[$ by ,b>on ,mun*aus5 :5 he desc5d$ f ! moon on a %ort rope--& ! ?+ is done6 ,= ^? :o _c climb d[n 9 ,brita9 !re is always an easy way r\nd4 ,! only two pegs ,i c recall hav+ se5 9 our hills 7 left by two =eign]s1 & 7 n ne$$4 ,9 big m\nta9e]+ !re may be m excuse4 ,a desc5t may h really become m difficult1 ev5 unsafe1 ow+ to ! com+ on ( d>kness or ! glaz+ ( rocks4 ,9 su* case1 pegs to hamm] 9 & an*or to are a rem$y = our failures1 our failure to c>ry on1 to adju/ ! climb to ! day-l5g?1 or to wat* ! wea!r4 ,_! use !n is corrective1 n auxili>y4 ,my p>ty has tak5 pegs ?ree times 9 all1 z a precaution1 & us$ "o once 7on a new desc5t :]e ! precise #8impossible' passage _h be5 previ\sly locat$74 ,pegs tak5 = ?is purpose %\ld be %ort & %>p1 & %ea!d = c>riage 9 pocket or sack4 ,!y %\ld be made ) a r+ or eye to pass ! rope ?r\gh4 ,!y are smitt5 9 & out z conv5i5ce & ! rock dictate4 ,pegs %\ld nev] be left z memorials4 ,prongs & r+s pok$ p]man5tly into popul> r\tes are m h>mful ?an helpful4 ,! m\nta9e] w n ne$ !m1 & !y may mislead him1 z !y usually foll[ ! be/ l[]+ r ?an ! be/ climb+ l9e4 ,:]e fix$ irons are plac$ ) fix$ ropes atta*$1 z on ! ,matt]horn or ! ,d5t du ,gant1 !y spoil ! climb] & ! climb+ alike4 ,!y attract feckless folks on to ! peaks1 & torm5t !m ) ! rock-b>rages ( pante*nicon p>ties or ! /oni] %>p-%oot+ ( daft solit>y scrambl]s4 ,on ! rock peaks ( ! ,ea/]n ,alps1 h[ev]1 ! peculi> "* ( ! climb+ has creat$ a diff]5t tradition4 ,already a l>ge lit]ature has gr[n up on ! subject ( me*anical contrivances = desc5ts4 ,pitons & r+-pegs & sl+s are tak5 & us$ to an ext5t t almo/ relieves a climb] ( ! ne$ ( consid]+ 8 desc5t at all4 ,a practice :i* is sanction$ by _m f9e cragsm5 :o h develop$ _! me?ods to suit _! own type ( rock1 & n ours1 mu/ be respect$ 9 its own t]ritory4 ,b j z among our own c\ntrym5 ! ov]-use ( ! rope & ( belays has contribut$ t[>ds a dim9ution 9 individual responsibility & to an increase 9 ill-*os5 associations1 s also ! op9ion sugge/s itself t ! ov]-use ( pegs & o!r contrivances by our colleagues abroad has l$ to a recklessness 9 lead+ & a disreg>d ( :at we mean by collective safety & p[]1 :i* h prov$ ev5 m fatal 9 result ?an our own error4 ,rec5tly among ! be/ cont95tal exp]ts !re h be5 indications ( a *ange ( doctr9e4 ,!y are f9d+1 z we did1 t ! neglect ( ! art ( climb+ d[n is a def9ite b> to a*iev+ success 9 great] m\nta9e]+4 ,!re w\ld be no purpose 9 discuss+ ! te*nicalities ( a practice s little likely to be popul> ) u4 ,9 asc5d+1 a peg is no protection to a lead]1 al?\gh its ins]tion may tempt him p]il\sly to g beyond :at he %\ld4 ,8 second man1 #ej to #fj feet bel[ him1 c give him z mu* #8safety' ) ! rope z a rigid peg #aj to #bj feet d[n4 ,if he has room to drive 9 a numb] ( %ort]-di/ance pegs1 !re %\ld c]ta9ly be room = him to h up 8 second man4 ,if he has got to run out m ?an ! #ej to #fj feet be=e he c get a /ance1 x is useless to wa/e "t driv+ 9 a peg2 no rope light en\gh to run out 9 ?is way c\ld be tru/$ to /& ! j]k ( a fall ( any height ^u a rigid b> or r+4 ,on long horizontal or diagonal trav]ses on v /eep rock1 pegs may h a purpose1 z a moral support to ! lead]2 al?\gh1 if he is free to hamm] 9 pegs & loop ropes1 x w\ld probably be bett] = him to get on ) 8 lead+ & get x ov]4 ,on su* a trav]se also a peg may s]ve to c>ry ! rope1 & relieve ! wai/ ( "s ( ! drag f ! l5g!n+ run-out4 ,a peg is really only #8s\nd1' 9 our s5se1 = asc5d+ or trav]s+1 if ! rope ov] x is be+ #8play$' by a human be+4 ,!n x may become an extra an*or or belay :]e natural belays may be lack+2 x c secure a second man :ile he is look+ aft] ! lead]'s rope1 & enable him to protect ! p>ty bel[ aga9/ ! consequ5ces ( ! fall ( ! lead] above4 ,! occasions are s r>e :5 a little +5uity _c f9d or contrive a bett] /ance & an*or out ( ! natural features ?an out ( a driv5 peg1 t pegs are seldom wor? tak+ on ?is *ance1 except = "s kn[n difficulty4 ,any man :o feels :5 he looks at a passage t he wants m protection beh9d him ?an ! "* ( ! rock all[s 8 second man to give him1 %\ld n attempt ! passage at all4 ,if he decides to take ! risk1 he %\ld d s only on 8 own acc\nt1 & unrope f 8 p>ty4 ,he c s5d ! rope d[n aft]w>ds1 or1 9 ! case ( a trav]se1 leave !m "o loose end to hold4 ,z a protection to ! p>ty x is ev5 bett] to unrope ?an to drive 9 pegs to c>ry ! l5g!n+ rope2 & z a protection to m ?an ! morale ( ! lead] ! peg is futile on su* passages4 ,! times :5 x is ju/ifiable to use pegs on a desc5t are ! same z ,i h already m5tion$ 9 deal+ ) rope d\bles3 ! int5tional desc5t ( t :i* has n or _c be asc5d$1 ! retreats 9 worse conditions1 or ov] glaz$ rock1 & ! races aga9/ "t4 ,! fir/ is a praisewor?y ex]cise 9 gymna/ics1 = :i* r+s1 b>s & poles may be tak5 & us$ accord+ to ta/e2 ! la/ two all[ ( pegs or any o!r precaution>y means we may h ) u be+ us$ t may prev5t defeat or miscalculation f becom+ disa/]4 ,i c imag9e no o!r cases :]e a climb] %\ld n feel t he is confess+ to incapacity or "s misjudgm5t if he has to fall back ^u pegs & aids to help him to come d[n :at he1 or "s o!r man1 has asc5d$4 ,aft] "o su* exp]i5ce1 any consci5ti\s climb] w\ld n[ set himself to practise climb+ d[n1 until he _h rem$i$ a v s]i\s defect 9 8 qualification to rank z a good m\nta9e]4 ,s long z a man dep5ds ^u 8 own h&s & feet & 8 k ( ! rock1 he rema9s ma/] ( ! situation4 ,he has f\r *ances always 9 8 fav\r4 ,:]eas1 if he is sw++ loose f an ins]t$ artificial peg1 he has only "o *ance2 & t "o nei!r s mu* "u 8 physical control z 8 own f+]s & toes1 nor ev5 z calculable 9 its effici5cy z a natural rock-borne belay4 ,,! ,,axe ,,on ,,rocks ,sid5ote3 ,its ,c>riage4 ,! axe is only less useful on rocks ?an on ice & sn[4 ,x is at once a long ?ird leg & a ?ird claw h& ( hon\rable s]vice4 ,its correct c>riage 9 walk+ is important1 & mu/ become in/9ctive4 ,guides c>ry x1 & x is ! be/ position1 ov] ! holl[ ( ! elb[1 l a gun1 ) ! head "u ! %\ld]1 & s turn$ t ! curve ( ! pick adh]es upw>d along ! %\ld]-blade & only ! balanc$ weight ( ! %aft re/s across ! =e>m4 ,! only absolute rule is t1 :e!r c>ri$ 9 h& or ov] or "u ! %\ld]1 ! axe %\ld always be held ) ! spike end ( ! %aft po9t+ =w>d4 ,no?+ betrays ! beg9n] or ! badly in/ruct$ climb] s fatally z an axe swung ) ! head to ! front & ! spike out beh9d4 ,habit %\ld be tra9$ s z to avoid ?is false position z in/9ctively z t ( c>ry+ a gun ) ! muzzle po9t+ directly to ! re>4 ,mu* walk+1 & all climb+1 9 ! ,alps is done 9 s+le file4 ,ev5 ! *ance t "o ( ! file may 9 c>elessness sw+ up 8 axe into ! wrong position1 on pa? or easy ridge1 is a p]petual ?reat to ! eyes & tee? ( anyone foll[+ him1 & its possibility1 9 ! p]son ( "o ill-tra9$ companion1 is an irritation = ! :ole p>ty to contemplate4 ,x is "o ( ! slight jeop>dies to h>mony :i* a lead] is ju/ifi$ 9 directly correct+4 ,x is be/ = actual climb+ on easy rocks to c>ry ! axe on a wide1 s(t sl+ on ! wri/4 ,if !n bo? h&s are ne$$ = holds1 x c be safely dropp$ = ! mom5t on to ! sl+1 & j]k$ back aga91 cup-&-ball fa%ion1 into ! h&1 )\t int]ruption or ! wa/e ( ev5 an arm movem5t4 ,if a /eep]1 & %ort1 passage occurs :]e ! arm mu/ be entirely free1 & ! axe on ! wri/-sl+ w\ld hamp] movem5t1 ! sl+ c be ?ru/ "r up on to ! %\ld]4 ,! axe !n hangs beh9d ! body & well out ( ! way ( bo? arm & leg motions4 ,on rocks1 :5ev] & :]ev] practicable1 ! axe %\ld be c>ri$ 9 ! h&4 ,! ma*9ations ( an axe "u control c be all[$ =2 b an axe sw++ free f wri/1 %\ld] or back is a devil ( /umbl+ & cat*+ un*a9$4 ,= ?is reason1 ! device1 employ$ by mo/ guides on long difficult passages or *imneys :]e ! h&s & %\ld]s mu/ be kept free1 ( we>+ a /r+ loop atta*$ to sack or rope1 ?r\gh :i* !y pass ! axe1 is n s\nd4 ,! axe is out ( sight1 loose & out ( control4 ,x is bett] to %ove x ?r\gh ! loop ( rope r\nd ! wai/1 :]e x is kept fairly rigid & its position c be all[$ =4 ,) a s+le movem5t x c be pull$ to ei!r side or beh9d1 z conv5i5ce dictates4 ,x is useful to practise c>ry+ ! axe on ,briti% rock climbs1 9 ord] to acquire ! in/9ct ( its prop] c>riage = lat] indisp5sable s]vice 9 ! ,alps4 ,! alp9e climb] is nev] )\t 8 axe2 & :5 he looks ahead at a rock section to select 8 holds1 he subconsci\sly decides at ! same "t h[ he mu/ c>ry 8 axe2 9 ! left or ! "r h&1 accord+ z to :i* w be ! out] or free h&2 on ! wri/1 if x be only = a /ep or two2 slung on 8 %\ld]1 = a long] passage2 or ?ru/ ?r\gh 8 wai/-rope on ! left1 "r or beh9d1 = a *imney or sev]e /ruggle4 ,if ! rock problem is ( great sev]ity or l5g?1 x saves "t 9 ! end to tie all ! axes on to a rope1 & to s5d !m up sep>ately4 ,s s5t1 !y %\ld be ti$ ) a clove-hit*1 n at ! end ( ! rope1 b s z to leave suffici5t rope hang+ bel[ to guide !m & prev5t _! cat*+4 ,?is also applies to s5d+ up ! sacks4 ,an axe ( "s +5uity has lately be5 design$ = use by a lead] on difficult rock4 ,?is w take 9 half4 ,on sev]e passages bo? halves c be pack$ into ! sack = ! "t1 or if ! crack conta9s ice 9 places :]e !re is no room to manipulate a long axe1 ! head half c be reta9$ 9 ! h& or 9 ! wai/-noose1 & be conv5i5tly us$ to make nicks 9 ! ice or to s]ve z a claw-h& 9 m9ute cracks4 ,x has /ood "s sev]e te/+1 b "t has /ill to %[ if ! conv5i5ce ( ! %ort5+ is secur$ at too great a sacrifice ( /r5g? 9 ! %aft to make ! axe s\nd = long or heavy /ep-cutt+4 ,! %ort axes popul> ) ^? mod]n climb]s :o rely exclusively ^u _! ice-claws1 h a habit 9 rock climb+ ( work+ out ( ! wai/-noose or sl+ & disappe>+ d[n ! cliff at crucial mom5ts4 ,!y are also ( no use z ! invaluable ?ird leg on easy rock or 9 desc5d+4 ,:5 halts are made x is important to see t ! axes are put 9 safety1 :]e !y _c be dislodg$ by =getful movem5ts4 ,a climb] )\t 8 axe is l a lion-hunt] )\t 8 rifle--& no tree to climb4 ,sid5ote3 ,z an ,extra ,h&4 ,9 asc5d+ rocks ! axe comes into use z a long claw-h&1 :]e sn[1 ice1 grass or hea!r cov]s ! l$ges & hides ! holds4 ,! pick c !n ei!r be driv5 9 z a h&hold--9 :i* case x is important to rememb] t ! axe mu/ be held rigid 9 ! position 9 :i* x is fir/ driv5 91 :atev] ! subsequ5t alt]ations 9 ! direction ( ! pull ^u x--or x c be us$ to cle> out ! ob/ruction4 ,on b>e rock1 if ! pick is driv5 into a crack & ! %aft set firm aga9/ ! rock bel[1 ! head c provide a useful h&hold or foo?old2 x c be fur!r secur$ if x is held 9 ?is position by a man bel[4 ,z a pull h&hold1 ) ! pick hook$ ov] an edge1 9 asc5d+ rocks1 x %\ld be us$ ) caution4 ,! direction ( ! pull ^u a h&hold always t5ds to *ange1 z ! weight is rais$ ne> or pa/ x2 & an axehold c r>ely be f\nd ( a k9d to resi/ ! outw>d or slant+ /ra9 z a climb] raises himself4 ,"o or two guides 9 ! ,alps h p]fect$ a rem>kable trick t may be m5tion$4 ,:5 a v]tical or slop+ crack 9 a slab gets too small ev5 to admit a f+]1 & all o!r holds are lack+1 !y =ce ! po9t ( ! pick into ! crack above _! heads1 & give a slight outw>d & upw>d twi/ to ! %aft ) ! wri/1 s t ! po9t ( ! pick & its squ>e edges are jamm$ slantwise & upw>ds 9 ! crack4 ,hold+ ! %aft rigid 9 ?is position1 !y !n raise _! weight by %e] /r5g? inside ! b5t arm :i* holds ! %aft1 at ! same "t us+ :atev] friction-holds !y c f9d = _! feet to help !m4 ,a second's catlike cl++ ( ! feet & ( _! free h& to ! rock gives !m j "t to ?ru/ ! pick f>!r up ! crack & twi/ x firmly 9 aga94 ,! feat is "o t dem&s exceptional /r5g? & skill1 & x is only employ$ 9 circum/ances f :i* ! be/ amateur w\ld retire )\t *oice4 ,b x is wor? practis+1 if only to be held 9 res]ve z a relief or extra security1 :51 on rocks less naturally desp]ate1 a crack or a slab proves unexpect$ly ic$ or na/y4 ,i h occasionally se5 an axe-head made use ( 9 ! fa%ion ( a #8peg4' ,:]e a belay po9t 0 lack+1 a climb] has jamm$ 8 axe-pick 9 a crack1 & an*or$ or belay$ ! rope ov] x4 ,i nev] came ^u su* a contrivance )\t a di/9ct feel+ ( relief t1 9 once aga9 avoid+ #8com+ ^u ! rope1' ,i _h once aga9 %irk$ be+ ! fir/ to make trial ( ! d\btful efficacy ( ?is sort ( belay4 ,9 well-*os5 spots1 ! famili> l$ges or t]races :]e slopes ( deep hea!r or grass cov] ! rock & leave no sure /ance1 ! axe c also be us$ = belay+4 ,! spike %\ld !n be driv5 9 deeply1 ! %aft slop+ away f ! pull1 & ! rope be pass$ l[ d[n r\nd its base1 gett+ "s extra friction ^u ! grass or hea!r imm$iately r\nd ! %aft4 ,b ^! belays %\ld be employ$ ) discretion4 ,sid5ote3 ,z a ,manx ,leg4 ,9 trav]s+ ! cre/s ( long ridges1 ) _! con/ant rise & fall1 & 9 desc5d+ easy or mod]ate rocks1 ! axe1 well h&l$1 is an invaluable telescopic ?ird leg4 ,! spike ( ! %aft rea*$ =w>d or d[nw>d to "s cranny or l[] /ep beyond ! rea* ( ! foot1 pres]ves ! balance 9 free walk+ or dur+ a long d[nw>d /ep4 ,its practis$ use enables ! body to balance cont9u\sly & rhy?mically 9 a walk+ upright attitude ov] brok5 cre/s or d[n angles & high /eps ( rock t w\ld o!rwise dem& a con/ant ef=t ( balance & mu* help f h&holds4 ,ev5 9 ! h&s ( a beg9n] x prev5ts him f crawl+ :]e he %\ld be le>n+ to walk 9 ! rhy?m ( balance4 ,9 s f> z x makes = upright movem5t x is ! fir/ in/ructor 9 balance climb+ on easy ridges & desc5ts4 ,9 desc5d+ sideways to ! rock1 ! axe-head1 %ort held on ! l$ges1 c give relief to ! cont9u$ drag on ! h&s4 ,or aga91 if ei!r h& is occupi$ ) ! rope1 ! spike ( ! axe ?ru/ d[n to a l[] edge ) ! free h& gives balance = ! next awkw>d desc5d+ /ep1 & avoids ! *eck to ! rope t ! se>* = h&hold1 & ! turn ( ! body to use x1 w\ld produce4 ,9 trav]s+ or desc5d+ easy faces or ridges1 ! axe1 held /raight across ! body ) ! spike t[>ds ! rock1 c give j ^? t\*es :i* ! balance 9 easy movem5t f "t to "t dem&s1 especially :5 !re is loose rubble on ! pass+ foo?olds or _! angle slopes inconv5i5tly4 ,9 danc+ d[n or across loose scree or mora9e1 t la/ te/ ( rhy?mical leg movem5t1 :i* becomes a /ep-dance ( delight or a sl[1 unhappy crawl accord+ z x is rightly or wrongly p]=m$1 ! axe held 9 ! same position makes at any mom5t1 ) a pass+ t\*1 a ?ird leg = balance4 ,b x is wrong & ret>d+ to make a p]petual tripod ) x1 & to lose ! rhy?m ( balanc$ movem5t by cont9ually lean+ ^u x4 ,,footnotes3 #aj ,see on ,boots1 8,equipm5t10 p4 #hj4 #aa ,see on ,nail+1 8,equipm5t10 p4 #hb4 #ab ,see 8,equipm5t10 p4 #hc4 ,,*apt] ,v ,,climb+ ,,9 ,,comb9ation ,9 no craft or sport is comb9ation s vital z 9 climb+4 ,! brilliant individual run or s+le score is impossible4 ,! memb]s ( a p>ty are comb9$ = life or dea?4 ,_! a*ievem5t is t ( _! unit$ effici5cy4 ,_! progress dep5ds ^u _! success 9 realiz+ complete h>mony ( ?\ght & movem5t4 ,! rope is _! n]v\s l9k4 ,!re are few ?+s m pleas+ to wat* ?an ! co-op]ation ( a good rope on a /iff rock climb4 ,to ! untutor$ eye ! p>ty may all appe> to be do+ diff]5t ?+s--"s paus+1 "s turn+1 "s climb+4 ,only ! exp]t may discov] ! cont9uity ( motion pass+ f "o end to ! o!r ( ! rope ?r\gh ! sep>ate actions ( ea* climb]4 ,l ! progress ( a snake1 se5 9 a sl[ c9ema film1 ! s9u\s connection is only app>5t to ! eye t c read 9 ea* app>5tly /ation>y phase its relation to ! phase :i* prec$es & foll[s x4 ,sid5ote3 ,collective ,rhy?m4 ,to climb z an individual1 ea* man has to le>n h[ he c mo/ safely & economically manage 8 muscles1 8 w & 8 n]ves1 & h[ to accommodate 8 p]sonal rhy?m to ! accid5ts ( rock /ructure4 ,to climb 9 a p>ty1 he has to adju/ ?is to ! collective rhy?m ( :atev] m5 he climbs )4 ,he has n only to get up rocks1 he has to d s z "p ( a ma*9e4 ,if all ! p>ty is mov+ toge!r1 he has to wat* ! h&s & feet ( ! man 9 front1 s z to lose no "t 9 r5ew$ se>*+ = 8 own holds2 to see t ! rope 9 front does n cat* or lie ab\t1 b take x up 9 loose1 neat coils 9 8 h&1 & let x out aga9 z requir$2 to keep 8 di/ances1 s z n to hurry or j]k ! m5 9 front or beh9d him2 to c>ry 8 axe & g5]ally a loose coil ( rope2 & at ! same "t to climb securely himself1 ) a view to hav+ to meet at any mom5t an unexpect$ slip by "s "o else4 ,if ! p>ty is mov+ s+ly1 he has to see exactly :]e ! man 9 front goes2 to wat* 8 position on ! next /ance above1 s z to adopt at once ! "r attitude = belay+ or hold+ ! man bel[ :5 he himself rea*es ! /ance 9 8 turn1 & to pull 9 ! rope ( ! man beh9d z he comes up1 :ile see+ t ! rope ( ! man 9 front runs out )\t hit*4 ,climb+ on ! rope falls naturally into two divisions ( te*nique1 alt]nat+ 9 _! employm5t accord+ to ! difficulty ( ! rock trav]s$ & ! ability ( ! p>ty3 t ( all mov+ toge!r1 or #8cont9u\s climb+1' on easy & mod]ately difficult rock2 & t ( mov+ s+ly1 #8int]rupt$' or #8"o at a "t1' on difficult rock2 9 ! latt] case ! man above w always be /ation>y & #8an*or+' ! rope = ! succe$+ climb]4 ,?is di/9ction is made ?r\gh\t 9 discuss+ ! diff]5t uses ( ! rope4 ,! ma/]y ( cont9u\s movem5t on ! rope is ! m important2 x is ! f9] art1 & ! bett] f\ndation = big m\nta9e]+4 ,b x has become too mu* ! fa%ion ) our climb]s to ignore its importance1 & to treat1 & !re=e to tra9 _! foll[+ to treat1 ea* section ( rock z an individual #8problem4' ,! necessity ( le>n+ h[ to move s+ly is =c$ ^u u 9 any case by ! sectional "* ( mo/ ( our difficult ,briti% rock climbs1 :i* are apt to divide !mselves into sep>ate #8pit*es4' ,un=tunately1 ! effect has gone deep]4 ,n only d we practise mov+ s+ly almo/ to ! exclusion ( collective cont9u\s climb+1 b we all[ ! int]rupt$ me?od to de/roy ! rhy?m & pace t prop]ly =m "p ( good #8"o-at-a-"t' climb+4 ,su* sectional climb+ e/abli%es a habit :i* is bad = ! individual /yle & disa/r\s 9 big m\nta9e]+4 ,a m\nta9e] on a rope has to le>n to feel t he is *>g$ ) a portion ( a unit$ p]sonality repres5t$ by ! rope4 ,9 proportion z he himself is secure or n1 at any mom5t :5 o!rs are less well plac$1 he c>ries a great] or less] %>e ( ?is collective responsibility4 ,if all are mov+ toge!r1 8 own movem5ts are ( importance to ! p>ty 9 s f> z !y co9cide ) ! collective rhy?m & contribute to ! pool ( safety aga9/ accid5ts4 ,if ! p>ty is mov+ s+ly1 at ! mom5ts :5 he himself is actually climb+ he is free to look aft] himself alone1 b ! in/ant he has ceas$ to move he has a d\ble measure ( security to assure = ^? />t+ to move above or bel[ him4 ,?is is 8 contribution to ! comb9$ safety ( ! p>ty4 ,8 contribution to ! collective pace is t he %\ld climb z quickly z is consi/5t ) safe progress & n z sl[ly z 8 own com=t might desire4 ,slack habits on %ort ,engli% climbs prev5t a p>ty ev] f9d+ its rhy?m1 or ev5 discov]+ its value z a comb9ation4 ,a good p>ty acquires a f9e collective mom5tum f ! impulse transmitt$ by ! %>p end+ ( "o climb]'s ef=t to ! imm$iate />t ( ! next man4 ,!re is z atta9able a rhy?m 9 #8int]rupt$' climb+ z 9 cont9u\s climb+4 ,:5 a p>ty c move s+ly or toge!r1 sl[ or fa/1 & yet reta9 its collective rhy?m1 x w h bridg$ ! gap betwe5 ! sev]e problem-climb t may h seem$ to x ! limit ( individual p]=mance1 & ! great alp9e exp$ition :i* may pile fifty su* problems into a day )\t com+ to ! end ( ! great] collective p[] ( a rop$ p>ty4 ,sid5ote3 ,imitation4 ,a climb]'s fir/ task on a rope is to le>n to wat* ! man 9 front4 ,?is mu/ become a second nature4 ,x %\ld be suffici5t t "o man has f\nd ! "r holds2 x is a wa/e ( "t & a bad break ( rhy?m if all1 or ev5 "o o!r man foll[+1 f9ds x necess>y to look = !m aga94 ,on cont9u\s climb+1 pace _c be a*iev$ )\t ?is subconsci\s imitation4 ,on difficult #8"o-at-a-"t' climb+1 to fail to />t or to foll[ ) ! correct h& or foot (t5 means failure to foll[ at all :]e ano!r has easily l$4 ,!re is no?+ l[]+ 9 imitation4 ,big climb+ is n competitive puzzle-"w4 ,! man beh9d is 9 any case h&icapp$ by ! rope1 & by 8 extra %>e ( responsibility 9 gu>d+ 8 lead]4 ,he owes x to ! p>ty n to wa/e "t 9 work+ out ! lead]'s job = himself ov] aga94 ,?is habit ( obs]vation may become q unconsci\s4 ,z a p]sonal in/ance1 ,i once trav]s$ ! ,matt]horn ) a well-kn[n guide z companion4 ,9 desc5d+1 ,i 0 occupi$ subconsci\sly 9 *oos+ holds & consci\sly 9 exam9+ a prospect$ r\te on ! di/ant ,d5t d',hr5s4 ,we 7 unrop$1 & ! guide 0 "s di/ance 9 front4 ,i h no recollection ( notic+ him4 ,aft] a "t ,i f\nd myself con/antly adju/+ my l9e s z to take holds always ) ! same h&4 ,i rem>k$ ! fact gradually1 because ,i became consci\s t x 0 n always ! obvi\s or mo/ conv5i5t adju/m5t4 ,9 an in/ant ! explanation fla%$ across me4 ,! guide climb$ admirably1 b an accid5t "s ye>s be=e _h left him only "o h& to climb )4 ,unconsci\sly1 or z a ?ird m5tal op]ation1 ,i _h be5 not+ 8 adju/m5ts & imitat+ !m )\t be+ ev5 aw>e t ,i saw him4 ,a criticism v frequ5tly made1 especially ( a man untra9$ 9 comb9$ climb+1 is3 8,y c't dep5d on him2 he takes diff]5t holds3--,i nev] feel sure ) him on ! rope beh9d40 ,if ! man mov+ 9 front kn[s :at holds ! next man is us+ he kn[s :]e he w be enc\nt]+ a difficulty or a loose hold1 & he is already half prep>$ 9 case ( 8 help be+ ne$$4 ,if1 on ! o!r h&1 he kn[s only t a new set are be+ discov]$1 he has to be con/antly turn+ r\nd & wait+1 & unc]ta9ty is add$ to 8 necess>y wat*fulness4 ,! criticism applies1 prim>ily1 to climb+ on rock ( a c]ta9 difficulty1 :]e !re w be only "o #8be/' l9e ( holds to use4 ,on easy rock great] lib]ty is p]missible4 ,at ! same "t a di/9ction mu/ be drawn betwe5 ! duty ( not+ ! holds1 & _! fa%ion ( use by ! man 9 front1 & ! duty ( us+ !m 9 precisely simil> fa%ion4 ,on v difficult rock passages a man ( diff]5t physique may1 f lack ( rea* or a div]g5ce 9 proportions1 f9d x necess>y to employ diff]5t adju/m5ts4 ,none ! less w he pr(it by hav+ not$ ! holds 8 front man us$1 &1 9 mo/ cases1 by imitat+ 8 actual fa%ion ( us+ !m4 ,on su* passages ( c\rse ! p>ty w be mov+ s+ly4 ,! front man w !re=e 9 any case be on 8 gu>d1 & no extra risk or loss ( "t is involv$ 9 ! en=c$ dep>ture f 8 me?od4 ,if ! p>ty is mov+ "o at a "t1 x is easi] to notice ! exact holds tak5 by "o's pr$ecessor1 b x is also easi] 9 ?is case to =get !m aga9 9 ! excitem5t ( wat*+ 8 fur!r progress4 ,!re=e1 9 mov+ s+ly1 ! ef=t ( notic+ has to be m directly consci\s4 ,if we are mov+ toge!r1 consci\s obs]vation is assi/$1 & 9 "p suppli$1 by ! cont9u\s action ( ! body1 z x adju/s its poise ( its own accord n to "o hold1 b to a sequ5ce ( holds4 ,if a man is sw++ along to ! same rhy?m z 8 lead]1 8 body automatically makes use ( ! same holds z ! lead] has f\nd to suit 8 balanc+ progress4 ,b if we are mov+ "o at a "t1 ea* man has to wat* ! holds4 ,we h to notice n only :at holds ! lead] tri$ & reject$1--z ^! w be ! obvi\sly conv5i5t holds ^: temptation mu/ be resi/$ if 8 example is to be ( s]vice1--b :at 7 ! actual holds & movem5ts by :i* he f9ally conqu]$4 ,= ! sake ( ^? foll[+ x is important to imitate ^! z closely z we c4 ,x is a/oni%+ h[ _m good climb]s fail to notice ev51 say1 su* an important po9t z ! fact t ! lead] turn$ r\nd s z to face ! opposite wall ( a crack at a p>ticul> po9t2 & h[ _m m c give no acc\nt ( :at holds !y !mselves us$1 ev5 ! mom5t aft]w>ds4 ,x is a sign ( a poor m\nta9e] if he has to call out to 8 front man = guidance3 8,did y g to ! "r "h80 or 8,:at d ,i d n[80 ,x is g5]ally impossible to direct him f above1 h[ev] well ! lead] may rememb] ! holds1 especially if he is /&+ back1 z he %\ld be1 9 ord] to hold ! rope4 ,all ! necess>y guidance %\ld h be5 not$ dur+ ! front man's asc5t4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,rope :ile ,mov+ ,toge!r4 ,ap>t f acquir+ ?is faculty ( imitation1 ! climb] has to le>n h[ to manage ! rope4 ,x might be ma9ta9$ t1 on places :]e all ! p>ty are able to move toge!r1 ! rope is n ne$$4 ,b 9 big m\nta9e]+ ! easy & ! h>d passages alt]nate s frequ5tly t ! con/ant tak+ (f & on1 ! coil+ & uncoil+ ( ! rope1 w\ld involve great loss ( "t4 ,!re is also1 ev5 on easy rock1 always ! possibility ( a slip or ( a break+ hold to be consid]$1 ev5 ) a fir/-rate p>ty4 ,(t5 !re may be dang] :5 !re is little or no difficulty4 ,& s9ce good m5 c hold almo/ any:]e1 ev5 :ile mov+1 if "o ( !m does slip1 ! rope protects him aga9/ any worse consequ5ces4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,rope to ! ,man 9 ,front4 ,9 cont9u\s climb+1 ) a good p>ty1 ea* man1 unless he be ! lead]1 is prim>ily conc]n$ ) ! section ( rope 9 front ( him4 ,x is be/ to keep ?is always a little slack1 & to ga!r up "o coil or two coils 9 ! outside h&4 ,^! loops c ei!r be reta9$ :ile ! h& is us$ = hold+ on1 or !y c be dropp$ = ! second if ! full grip ( bo? h&s is ne$$4 ,b y\r fir/ conc]n is n to j]k ! man 9 front2 x is only ( m9or importance to get up com=tably y\rself4 ,= ! j]k on y\r fri5d w be unexpect$1 & !re=e di/urb+1 if n upsett+2 :]eas inconv5i5t holds = y\rself1 or ! extra ef=t requir$ to keep ! rope cle>1 y c =esee1 & !re=e disc\nt4 ,to break y\r own rhy?m "u ^! circum/ances1 9 ord] to avoid break+ t ( ! man 9 front1 does less injury to ! collective movem5t4 ,x is (t5 bett]1 = ! same end1 to take an awkw>d t\*-hold1 ) elb[ or knee1 r ?an to lose "t 9 dropp+ ! coils s z to free y\r h&4 ,if ! coils h to be dropp$1 ! "t c yet be sav$ & ! rhy?m rema9 unbrok51 if y quick5 up = a /ep or two & close 9 on ! man 9 front4 ,! loose coil 9 ! h& ( ! man beh9d y w leave y ?is m>g94 ,:5 y drop y\r coil1 see t x falls into a position 9 :i* x w n be likely to hit* & f :i* x c be caught up aga9 at once4 ,! arm1 ) ! h&1 has above all ?+s to le>n ! me*anical sw+ :i* frees1 frees1 frees ! rope 9 front ( y1 be=e1 aft]1 & ev5 dur+ ea* /ep1 at :atev] inconv5i5ce to y\rself4 ,x is some?+ ( ! motion ( crack+ a :ip sl[ly1 upw>ds or sideways accord+ to ! lie ( ! rock4 ,! art ( ! sw+1 f all positions1 c only come ) practice4 ,=tunately = u1 ! bus9ess ( wat*+ ! rope comb9es conv5i5tly ) t ( wat*+ ! movem5ts & holds ( ! man ahead1 & does n )draw our eye f its fir/ duty4 ,mean:ile1 = our own holds we mu/ tru/ to ! ha/ie/ ( pass+ glances1 & dep5d = ! re/ on our imitation ( our front man4 ,to ?is ext5t comb9$ climb+ makes a fur!r dem& ^u ! ability to take holds previ\sly m>k$1 unaid$ at ! mom5t by sight2 an art :i* ! feet & h&s h _h to le>n 9 acquir+ balance me?od4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,rope f ! ,man ,beh9d4 ,) ! man beh9d1 9 cont9u\s climb+1 we are less conc]n$4 ,if he is ( equal /r5g?1 he c be left to himself4 ,yet we h to rememb] :]e ! *ecks ( difficulty or bad holds occurr$ t broke our own rhy?m1 & we mu/ all[ = !m 9 turn by slack5+ our pace slightly :5 in/9ct tells u t ! man foll[+ is approa*+ ^! *eck-po9ts4 ,if a p>ty is mov+ well 9 tune1 we %all "k )\t look+ r\nd :5 ! next man w probably be *eck+ or :5 he w be =c$ to drop 8 coils ( rope = bett] hold4 ,we %all !re=e be prep>$ = a *eck1 or ev5 a j]k to our rope %\ld a blund] occur4 ,if ! man beh9d is di/9ctly less exp]t1 "s all[ance 9 pace & att5tion has to be made at su* times2 & x is z well1 )\t necess>ily /opp+ or turn+ r\nd1 to feel backw>ds ) "o h&1 & discov] if ! rope is advanc+ freely4 ,! h& c ev5 take up a coil or s ( ! rope beh9d1 & hold x toge!r ) ! coils x holds ( ! rope 9 front4 ,we !n h "s m>g9 ( rope to let g 9 case x is *eck$ f beh9d on su* expect$ places4 ,a weak] man beh9d may be expect$ to *eck :]e 8 pr$ecessor pass$ )\t pause2 & to take up a loop or s ( 8 rope1 br++ x taut 9 ! act1 keeps u 9 t\* ) 8 movem5ts1 & ready to help him if ne$$1 )\t =c+ u to take our eyes (f our lead] or our att5tion (f our own progress4 ,if ! man beh9d is a novice1 x is be/ always to adopt ?is plan1 & leave him free to use 8 h&s1 :ile we ourselves hold ! loose coils :i* normally w\ld be 8 c>e4 ,?is ?r[s a d\ble task on ! middle man1 :o ?us has two ropes to manage2 b a good c5tre w be able to keep all 8 eyes = 8 lead] & yet disc]n all he ne$s to "k ab\t ! progress ( 8 re> man f ! feel ( ! rope4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,rope :ile ,mov+ ,s+ly4 ,9 /eep climb+1 :]e ! p>ty moves "o at a "t1 ! rope is us$ = direct protection & n m]ely z a precaution>y l9k4 ,! rope is = safety2 x is n = assi/ance4 ,above all1 !re is no magic 9 its use4 ,x does n or _c level up ! p[]s ( an unequal p>ty to ! /&>d ( its be/ memb]s4 ,9 s f> z memb]s ( a rope f9d x necess>y to h rec\rse to x z direct aid1 !y are draw+ ^u ! res]ve ( /r5g? & security :i* ! p>ty pools1 & ?us dim9i%+ ! m>g9 :i* is requir$ = _! feats 9 ! lead by ! m exp]t memb]s4 ,!y are depriv+ ! p>ty ( its rhy?m1 & ! lead] ( ! s5se ( a safe collective capacity beh9d him1 :i* is ! impetus t makes = 8 success4 ,?is w>n+ is n unne$$ at ! pres5t "t4 ,x has become ! cu/om = a gr\p ( fir/-class lead]s to conduct v>i\s assortm5ts ( less capable climb]s up ! mo/ difficult climbs 9 our isl&s4 ,= !m x is only a fri5dly ef=t4 ,! climbs are %ort2 ! res]ve ( a good lead] is suffici5t = su* #8"o-man' climbs1 :i* are climb$ #8"o at a "t4' ,b ! h>m = ! individuals :o foll[ may be great4 ,!y are depriv+ !mselves ( any *ance to develop _! own balance & confid5ce4 ,!y are confus+ _! judgm5t z to _! own unaid$ capacity1 & are spoil+ _! ta/e by s5sations !y _c dige/4 ,!y may be gett+ into c>eless habits ( tru/+ to ! rope z an auxili>y eng9e :5ev] _! w9d or p[] fails4 ,:5 ^! me?ods & ill-assort$ companion%ips are transf]r$ to ! ,alps1 ! results are lam5table4 ,) difficulties magnifi$ a hundr$fold 9 l5g?1 ^u climbs :i* c only be expect$ to yield 9 a :ole day to ! attack ( comb9$ effici5cy1 & ) f> long] h\rs ( easy climb+ to face1 ( a k9d to dem& ! utmo/ individual precision = its timely passage1 su* me?ods make impossible dem&s ^u ! m>g9 ( p[] & security t ! able/ ( lead]s has ov] = ! common #8pool' ( 8 p>ty4 ,!re foll[ late returns1 & exhau/ion1 & ill-temp]1 & nights out1 if no worse4 ,9 ?is respect ,briti% climb+ may be ! v rev]se ( a prep>ation = ! ,alps4 ,! rope c be abus$ until x becomes a dang]4 ,!re is no h>m 9 tak+ an occasional pull f ! man above2 "s rock passages are m difficult = c]ta9 types ( figure1 o!rs = o!rs4 ,! h\r & ! wea!r may on occasion make x bett] n to wa/e ! "t ( ! p>ty4 ,b any man :o has habitually to give #8trunk calls' is climb+ ) a lead] & on a class ( climb beyond 8 capacity4 ,he is delay+ ! p>ty & injur+ 8 own climb+ p]man5tly4 ,if x is only practice he lacks1 he %\ld insi/ ^u bett] opportunity = real practice & a sl[] pace4 ,if ?is does n relieve him f ! necessity ( #8rope-rid+1' he w d himself m good by work+ = a p]iod on easi] rock ) a humbl] rope4 ,if1 on ! o!r h&1 he f9ds t z 8 te*nique improves he c manage unaid$ all t 8 lead] sets him1 he %\ld insi/ on be+ giv5 8 %>e ( lead+4 ,sid5ote3 ,foll[+ & ,lead+4 ,?is w be ! m necess>y if he beg9s to f9d himself 9 d\bt :e!r he c\ld lead places ov] :i* he kn[s he c foll[ capably4 ,he has cle>ly !n be5 neglect+ a mo/ important side ( 8 climb+ education1 8 self-k & confid5ce4 ,x is a fact t any mod]ate climb] :o has n sacrific$ 8 own s\nd tra9+ & ! education ( 8 n]ve to ! exactions ( too rapid a p>ty1 climbs tw5ty p] c5t bett]1 :5 he is lead+1 ?an he ev] does :5 he is foll[+4 ,!re h be5 pl5ty ( cases ( m5 :o = ye>s rema9$ av]age climb]s beh9d "s dom9at+ lead]1 & :o1 :5 plac$ by "s *ance reluctantly 9 ! lead1 sudd5ly develop$ p[]s beyond all expectation1 & reta9$ !m4 ,!y _h m]ely to add self-k & confid5ce to _! te*nically ?or\gh tra9+4 ,conv]sely1 x is a fact t a man :o has be5 accu/om$ only to lead climbs "s tw5ty p] c5t worse :5 he has on occasion to foll[4 ,! habit ( imitation1 ! in/9ct = rope managem5t1 & ! necessity ( tak+ & n sett+ ! rhy?m are all novel to him4 ,to ?is defect 9 education is 9 "p due ! disappo9t+ p]=mances ( "s excell5t rock climb]s :5 !y fir/ m\nta9e] 9 ! ,alps4 ,m5 always accu/om$ to lead at home nev] climb at _! be/ beh9d a guide4 ,& m5 :o h always foll[$ h nev] acquir$ confid5ce or self-dep5d5ce suffici5t to meet new circum/ances happily4 ,= ^! reasons e habitual lead] %\ld accu/om himself to foll[ at home2 he w be f> m effici5t :5 he />ts to le>n 8 bus9ess beh9d pr(essionals 9 ! ,alps1 or :51 ) a guideless p>ty1 he has to alt] ! ord]1 & foll[ himself1 z is sometimes necess>y = great] safety4 ,aga91 e "o ^u :om circum/ances =ce ! position ( g5]ally foll[+1 ei!r on ,briti% rocks or 9 ! ,alps1 %\ld insi/ ^u 8 %>e ( lead+ :]e he feels t x is )9 8 physical p[]s4 ,sid5ote3 ,/ances4 ,! ext5t to :i* ! rope is n[ us$ z a g5]al assi/ance or z a decoration on easy passages is apt to contribute to a neglect ( ! /udy ( positions prop] to its secure use 9 places :]e its protection is really ne$$4 ,x is z vital = a lead] to "k :at "* ( /ance he requires 9 ord] to br+ up 8 foll[+ safely1 z to get up a passage himself4 ,_m old climb]s are frankly inept 9 _! *oice ( /ance & ( attitude ^u x4 ,x w\ld seem simple en\gh = a man to ?9k out f :at direction a pull w come ^u him1 & h[ he c be/ place 8 body to meet x4 ,b _m m9ds c nev] get beyond ! s5se ( a com=table attitude ( body at ! mom5t1 & quail be=e ! fur!r /ep ( consid]+ h[ t attitude is suit$ to a pull f a p>ticul> direction4 ,x br+s a %udd] to rememb] occasions :5 we h arriv$ at a plat=m aft] a sev]e /ruggle & f\nd our an*or man c>efully jamm$ 9 a position t c\ld n h resi/$ ! fa9te/ pull f ! only important direction6 ,& beh9d ! possible d\bt 9 _m a man's m9d1 s plac$1 seems always to be ! dang]\s feel+3 8,anyh[1 x's only = a mom5t1 & old ,s-&-s won't slip40 ,p]haps ,s-&-s half-way up calls out1 8,c y give me a little pull80 ,= ,s-&-s has be5 climb+ probably ) some?+ ( ! same sort ( feel+3 8,i'll h a %ot2 & anyh[1 !re's always old ,su*-&-su* up !re ) ! rope60 ,at ! call comes fur!r d\bt above1 & ev5 t om9\s 8,wait a second60 :ile ! upp] man ha/ily tries to alt] 8 position4 ,?is is z common an ev5t z x is unp>donable4 ,! #8,wait a second' man may be a p]il\s goose2 b ev5 he is n s bad z ! #8,all "r6 come along6' man 9 l situation4 ,a lead]--& ,i am n writ+ )\t kn[+ ( in/ances--:o "u any circum/ances ( excitem5t or difficulty says he is all "r to hold :5 he kn[s or ev5 suspects t he is n1 & :o all[s 8 next man to ent] on a d\btful passage on ?is false und]/&+1 is guilty ( con/ructive manslaught]1 only p>tially r$eem$ by ! possibility t x may be also con/ructive suicide4 ,a climb] has to ?9k out exactly h[ ! pull on ! rope w come1 & :at hold he has ab\t him to help him to meet x4 ,our object is to /ay 9 balance on ! feet z long z possible1 s z to be able to pivot on our legs & meet ! /ra9s1 if & z !y come4 ,to sit d[n is an all too vulg> error4 ,on /eep slop+ l$ges :]e we /ay ! heels aga9/ rock or h]bage1 or a/ride ( a ridge1 or jamm$ 9 a crack or *imney1 we may h to sit d[n2 b our position is weak4 ,we are out ( balance & out ( ! true l9e ( ! rope1 :i* almo/ ( necessity w be fray+ ov] "s edge1 int]rupt+ our in=mation z to h[ ! invisible man bel[ u is gett+ on1 & n improbably loos5+ /ones on to him4 ,:5ev] ! /ance p]mits we /& 9 free balance on ! feet1 ) our outside or firm leg 9 l9e ) ! pull ( ! mov+ rope4 ,! body incl9es inw>d1 ready to take ! pull1 if x comes1 d[n ! ?ru/ ( our rigid leg4 ,if ! l$ge is n>r[1 we re/ aga9/ ! rock ) %\ld] or our inside knee1 b /ill keep a free poise ( ! body to meet any slight alt]ations 9 ! direction ( /ra94 ,if ! l$ge is too n>r[ to all[ u to lean back & s take ! /ra9 d[n ?r\gh our leg to ! rock1 or if ! /ance does n ev5 all[ ( balanc+ )\t h&holds1 !n we mu/ look out = a belay or an*or1 any knob or split corn] ( rock1 r\nd :i* to pass ! rope z extra security4 ,sid5ote3 ,) ,belays4 ,we make ! di/9ction betwe5 an #8an*or1' ! loop ( inactive rope ) :i* a /ation>y climb] secures himself to a rock po9t1 9 ord] to protect himself & ! re/ ( ! p>ty :ile somebody else is climb+1 & a #8belay1' :i* is ! rock-&-rope atta*m5t by :i* ! active rope ( a mov+ man is protect$ :ile x is runn+ out or be+ pull$ 94 ,we di/+ui% aga9 betwe5 a #8direct belay1' :]e ! rope 9 action connects directly on to or r\nd rock1 & an #8indirect belay1' :]e "s =m ( human spr+ is int]pos$ betwe5 ! active rope & ! solid rock4 ,! an*or %\ld n be made ) a section ( ! rope mom5t>ily 9 action4 ,! man on ! /ance takes a loop ( ! inactive rope betwe5 himself & ! next /ation>y climb] & puts x ov] a po9t4 ,he c ei!r hold x !re loop$1 or secure x by putt+ on a second coil1 :i* w confirm x by friction4 ,an an*or is n mu* good unless x is q close to or v]tically above u4 ,! f>!r (f x is1 ! m op5 x becomes to all our objections to a direct belay4 ,its object is to assure ! balance ( a /ation>y climb] :ile he is manag+ ! rope ( a mov+ climb]1 & safegu>d ! re/ ( ! p>ty 9 case ( ! fall ( bo?4 ,! same po9t ( rock may h to s]ve = bo? an*or & belay1 b _! affix+ %\ld be q indep5d5t4 ,if a lead]1 we>+ necess>ily only ! "o rope1 ! active rope to 8 second man1 wi%es to secure an an*or1 he mu/ divide 8 an*or loop f t portion ( 8 active rope :i* he is us+ to belay 8 second man by v secure friction coils r\nd ! rock4 ,if !re is no place = bo? an*or & belay1 ! an*or mu/ be sacrific$1 & ! belay !n made z indirect z +5uity c devise4 ,! direct belay is uns\nd to protect a lead]4 ,if ! rope is play+ r\nd rock1 x may at any second j]k him1 a fatal fault4 ,if he falls ) a long rope out1 ! rope w1 or ought to1 break1 :5 ! j]k comes directly ^u a solid po9t1 & v (t5 a po9t ) %>p edges4 ,if he falls on a %ort rope1 simil>ly atta*$ directly to rock1 ! *ance ( its snapp+ is only slightly less4 ,= a long rope may take up mu* j]k 9 its ela/ic spr+1 b a %ort rope _c4 ,?is %\ld be m widely kn[n4 ,_m lead]s ?9k !y w be safe 9 try+ a risky passage if !y c f9d a direct belay+-po9t :i* only leaves a %ort run-out4 ,!y ei!r use x l a #8peg1' pass+ ! rope beh9d x & tak+ out en\gh slack to let !m d ! passage1 or !y br+ up _! second m5 on to bad /ances to hold ! rope ov] x4 ,nei!r c\rse less5s ! risks ( ! direct belay4 ,"s prev5table accid5ts h be5 due to ?is dang]\s misconception4 ,an exception w\ld appe> to be ! case ( ! lead] #8?read+ ! rope1' beh9d a jamm$ /one1 9 ord] to protect himself 9 attempt+ a bad bit f a /ance n good en\gh = him to br+ 8 second up to4 ,?is #8?read+' is only s\nd if1 fir/ly1 ! run-out above x is only to be = a few feet2 &1 secondly1 if ! rope w run freely beh9d ! /one s t ! second man bel[ c play x & turn x into an indirect belay1 to "s ext5t1 9 case ( a slip4 ,o!rwise ?read+ is really only a brittle re$ ( moral reassurance = a lead] :o is unc]ta9 ab\t 8 /&>d ( ! day4 ,z a protection to a man foll[+ u up rock ! direct belay is almo/ equally uns\nd4 ,to drag ! mov+ rope r\nd rock frays x1 & runs ! risk ( !re be+ a hit* or "s slack rope to complicate matt]s if he slips or ne$s a pull4 ,few knobs c be tru/$ to reta9 a travell+ rope unless ! h&s keep x 9 position4 ,a rope dragg$ r\nd a po9t1 also1 rolls aga9/ ! lay ( ! /r&s1 & may roll up & (f a r\nd$ knob unexpect$ly4 ,aga91 a rope may play easily r\nd a spl9t] :ile x is loose1 b :5 a /ra9 comes ^u x x w jam 9 ! crack beh9d1 & ! sudd5 /opp+ ( ! #8give' 9 ! rope p9*es & may snap x4 ,9 "o-at-a-"t climb+ x %\ld r>ely be necess>y to take a direct belay to protect a man foll[+4 ,x is our bus9ess n to use a /ance unless we c r5d] its belay 9 "s way indirect4 ,only 9 cont9u\s climb+ d we cont5t ourselves sometimes ) cursory direct belays1 g5]ally 9 desc5d+4 ,!n !y are simply a pass+ precaution1 n a def9ite protection2 & !y are s\nd because ! easy "* ( ! climb+ w p]mit u1 at ne$1 in/antly to conv]t !m into indirect belays or an*ors4 ,o!rwise direct belays are m (t5 us$ 9 laz9ess or ignorance ?an f any dire climb+ necessity4 ,= ! indirect belay we loop ! active rope ( ! man climb+ r\nd a conv5i5t po9t1 & !n make x our bus9ess to int]pose our h&s1 arms1 legs1 %\ld]s1 or any "p ( u :i* may prev5t a j]k ( 8 rope f com+ un9t]rupt$ly on to ! solid rock4 ,if we h fair room to balance1 we play ! rope entirely free ) our arms & ! spr+ ( our body1 us+ only an an*or to ! rock if we ne$ x4 ,if we h n room1 & especially if we are protect+ a lead]1 ^: fall w\ld j]k u (f mo/ positions ( free balance1 we put ! rope ov] ! po9t & play x r\nd ) bo? h&s1 ready to grip & spr+ x ^u our arms if a j]k comes4 ,or we pass ! active rope r\nd our =e>m or ov] ! ?igh or across ! %\ld]1 on its way to ! belay-po9t4 ,x (t5 happ5s t ! rope does n play easily r\nd ! belay z we pass x f "o h& to ! o!r4 ,we may h to free x & run a coil ?r\gh quickly1 or alt] its lie r\nd ! belay4 ,^! %ifts %\ld nev] be made except :5 ! man protect$ by ! rope is mom5t>ily at re/4 ,simil>ly we may h to take x (f ! belay = a second1 to let x run out quickly en\gh = a rapid lead]1 :o above all ?+s mu/ n be j]k$4 ,= ^! adju/m5ts x is bett] to keep always a small m>g9 ( slack 9 ! rope1 :i* we cont9ue to take up 9 ! h&s z !y play ! rope r\nd ! belay1 until a suitable mom5t comes = mak+ ! readju/m5t we int5d4 ,?is m>g9 also leaves u a loose curl ?r\gh :i* to twi/ wri/ or arm1 z an extra spr+1 9 case ( a fall on ! rope4 ,z an extra precaution we may ins]t glove or cap or ev5 e>? betwe5 ! rope & ! knob1 if we ?9k x may r$uce ! friction or ease ! passage4 ,we may n always be satisfi$ t we h r5d]$ our belay classically indirect1 b we c always prev5t its be+ crudely direct4 ,our eye mu/ le>n to take in/9ctive (f5ce at ! sight ( any active rope runn+ direct f a mov+ man to a rigid rock4 ,sid5ote3 ,)\t ,belays4 ,belays & h&holds are almo/ synonym\s1 = !re is v little h&hold :i* +5uity _c conv]t into "s =m ( extra security = ! rope4 ,:]e h&holds fail u1 belays fail u1 & we h to fall back = our secur+ ( ! rope ^u balance & ! me*anics ( our bodies4 ,! nature ( ! /ance sugge/s ! position4 ,! /ronge/ hold+ attitude is t ( ! body turn$ some:at sideways to ! direction ( ! expect$ pull1 & incl9$ slightly inw>ds ov] ! inn] b5t leg2 ?us ! /ra9 is tak5 d[n ! out] rigid leg to ! rock4 ,?is leg is plant$ firmly on ! foot1 & slop$ 9 ! same l9e z ! rope f ! man asc5d+ bel[ u1 or1 alt]natively1 9 ! l9e :i* ! rope f ! man above u may be expect$ to take1 suppos+ he 7 to fall4 ,! sideways turn enables u to make a spr+ ( ! body2 :i* we b5d or /raight5 ov] ! b5t inn] leg & beh9d our rigid leg1 z we pull 9 or *eck ! rope1 )\t risk ( be+ pull$ (f our /ance4 ,:]eas1 if we face squ>ely outw>d1 we _c get beh9d bo? our legs1 to pull1 )\t sitt+ d[n2 & any =w>d b5d ( ! body1 to meet a pull1 risks ! balance & ! foo?old4 ,we use any r\ghness ( ! surface z extra pur*ase = ! out]1 firm foot4 ,two su* small holds1 if only = ! side-nails ( ! boots1 give suffici5t pur*ase1 "u a body 9 balance1 to lift ! :ole weight ( a heavy companion1 or1 less c]ta9ly1 to *eck a consid]able weight fall+ f above4 ,sometimes x is be/ to b5d ! inn] leg until ! knee re/s aga9/ ! wall beh9d4 ,if ! rock above u projects1 or is s /eep t we _c lean 9 beh9d our firm leg1 ! /ance is n s\nd )\t "s belay4 ,b x is at times possible1 if ! /ance is broad & ! slope ( ! projection above all[s x1 to kneel on ! inside knee1 & belay ! rope ov] ! outside knee ) bo? h&s4 ,a man ) p[]ful legs c make ?is a secure spr+ = ! rope4 ,! c5tre ( gravity is s l[ 9 ?is position t a heavy j]k f bel[ c safely be tak54 ,b x is useless1 ( c\rse1 )\t o!r hold1 z a belay aga9/ a fall f above4 ,no /ance is s\nd )\t a belay or an*or :]e we feel we ne$ h&hold = our balance1 or :]e we feel we %all ne$ x to resi/ ! pull ( a rope1 f bel[ or above z ! case may be4 ,no man1 dep5d5t ^u h&hold himself1 is safe en\gh to secure ! rope = ano!r climb]4 ,he mu/ ei!r be able to conv]t 8 h&hold into an an*or = himself or into "s =m ( indirect belay = ! climb]1 or else he mu/ seek ano!r /ance4 ,! m we le>n ( ! me*anics ( climb+1 ! m we incl9e to use only free /ances if we wi% to assi/ or protect a man bel[2 & free /ances re9=c$ by an*ors on ! inactive rope to protect a lead] above2 & ! less & less we get to l ev5 indirect belays1 = ei!r1 on ! active rope4 ,= a man bel[1 x is ( m assi/ance t we %\ld be able to give him ! imm$iate pull or /eady ) 8 active rope :i* a free /ance or body belay all[s u to d1 & :i* w prev5t him slipp+ at all1 ?an t1 :5 = lack ( ?is in/antane\s t\* he has slipp$1 8 active rope %\ld be rock-belay$1 & %\ld be ?us m /onily c]ta9 ( /opp+ him 9 8 fur!r fall4 ,= a lead] above u1 x is ( m s]vice t we %\ld associate ourselves ) 8 action1 keep a free /ance or a body or arm belay on 8 active rope1 &1 if he falls1 be free to int]pose all our human me*anism to ease ! j>1 ?an t we %\ld seek to dim9i% our responsibility & risk1 & increase 8 dang]1 by entru/+ 8 active rope to ! p]il\s rigidity ( a rock belay4 ,we mu/1 inde$1 always take an an*or = a lead] on ! inactive rope1 if we c2 because ?is /r5g!ns our position 9 function+ z 8 human spr+1 & protects ! re/ ( ! p>ty 9 case ( our failure to save him by our int]position4 ,& we %\ld take x = a man bel[1 on sev]e rock1 :5ev] our free /ance is n secure en\gh to safegu>d ourselves &1 consequ5tly1 ^? above u4 ,b ! v human incl9ation :i* assails our novitiate ^u all rock t tries our /r5g? or imposes ^u our n]ves1 to %ove (f our responsibility on to any rock po9t t pres5ts itself1 & to jam ! active rope r\nd x1 reg>dless z to :e!r our position w all[ u to int]pose any effective human spr+ ^u x 9 case ( a slip1 bel[ or above u1 mu/ be /]nly resi/$ & unle>n$4 ,unless we c be c]ta9 t we c keep ! belay an indirect "o :5 ! pull comes ^u ! rope1 & n only :ile we are da9tily h&l+ its slack1 we mu/ n take ! belay4 ,if we _c sub/itute = x a free /ance or an an*or on ! inactive rope1 we mu/ reject su* a /ance altoge!r1 & move to ano!r4 ,9 my exp]i5ce1 ! bett] ! m\nta9e]1 ! m boldly he ?r[s 9 8 lot ) ! action & security ( ! man at ! mom5t climb+ above or bel[ him2 t is1 ! m he associates 8 human me*anism1 ei!r z impulse or z *eck1 directly ) ! active rope2 & uses ! rock1 = an*or or indirect belay1 z a protection beh9d him = ! inactive rope & ! re/ ( ! p>ty4 ,betwe5 good climb]s ! rope s]ves z a telegraph wire4 ,s long z x runs free we c receive our call = help or reassurance & return our in/antane\s t\* or impulse d[n x ) a response t is almo/ anticipation4 ,any rock int]position int]rupts ! "o & delays ! o!r4 ,! rescue ( rock %\ld be held 9 ready res]ve to re9=ce u ) an an*or or ) an indirect belay1 aft] our human spr+ has p]=m$ its function & has at lea/ absorb$ mo/ ( ! /ock4 ,sid5ote3 ,hold+ ! ,rope4 ,climb+ rope is z a rule too ?9 to be conv5i5tly held or pull$ ) a heavy weight at ! end1 except by m5 ( abnormal grip or specially develop$ h&s4 ,_m m51 !re=e1 :5 tak+ position = hold+ on a /ance1 an*or$ or n1 give ! rope "o or two half-twi/s r\nd ! =e>m4 ,?is is conv5i5t1 b n )\t risk4 ,! mo/ com=table position1 on a free or an*or$ /ance1 is to pass ! rope r\nd ! body j above ! hips1 gripp+ x on ei!r side 9 front ) ! two h&s1 & pass+ x along f "o to ! o!r h& z requir$4 ,! be/ h&-grip is to turn ! palms ( ! h&s upw>d1 & to lay ! rope betwe5 ! fir/ f+]s & ?umbs ( ea* h&4 ,if ! outside arm is !n turn$ slightly outw>d1 palm up1 & ! body1 z x /&s sideways to ! pull ( ! rope1 is incl9$ inw>ds1 ?ru/+ aga9/ ! out] firm foot1 ! body1 ! out] firm leg & ! out] arm w all be approximately 9 l9e ) ! direction ( ! pull4 ,! utmo/ use is ?us be+ made ( ! spr+-pulley ( arm & body1 ) no en]gy wa/$ r\nd corn]s4 ,! inside h& pulls 9 or lets out ! rope r\nd ! body4 ,! spr+1 up or d[n1 ( ! body f ! wai/ is ready at any mom5t to help 9 absorb+ ! j]k ( a pull f above1 or 9 giv+ ! /eady #8little pull' t prev5ts ! j]k com+ at all f ! approa*+ man bel[4 ,! rope pass+ r\nd ! body & ! =e>m gives a surpris+ am\nt ( resi/ance 9 friction2 m s1 ow+ to ! ela/ic surface x embraces1 ?an is giv5 by a rigid belay4 ,) its aid1 if ! feet are firm & ! balance good1 we c take a man's weight on "o arm alone1 & leave ! o!r h& free to hold ! loop-an*or1 or pass ! loose coils r\nd ! belay or r\nd our body z !y come 94 ,naturally we c resi/ a f> great] /ra9 on ! rope r\nd our hips1 & imm$iately above & beh9d our firm leg1 ?an our balance c\ld support if ! pull came high]1 ^u our arms & %\ld]s4 ,x is s\nd] = ?is reason1 :5 we use ! body belay1 always to pass ! rope r\nd bo? hips & out "u ! arm1 & n br+ x out1 z is usually done1 ov] our inside %\ld]4 ,! pull is sometimes1 b n (t51 v]tical en\gh to make ?is la/ a s\nd position4 ,! same rule applies ev5 m /rongly if we are =c$ to /& fac+ outw>d4 ,sometimes1 :5 !re is no room to balance = ! body belay1 & we f9d no rock belay or an*or l[ en\gh to all[ ( our us+ our arms z effective spr+s on ! rope1 we h to be cont5t ) high h&holds or an an*or-po9t well above u4 ,9 su* a case we c (t5 int]pose our %\ld] z a spr+4 ,:ile we hold ! an*or on ! po9t above u ) ! "o h&1 ) ! o!r we pull a foot or s ( ! active rope d[n across our inn] %\ld] & up/ret*$ arm1 spr++ ! rope1 z x 71 across ! b[ ( arm & %\ld]4 ,we ?us conv]t ! high an*or into an indirect belay4 ,a v common position ^u /eep rock1 :]e our /ance is too n>r[ to all[ ( turn+ sideways or ( belay+ ! rope r\nd ! body balanc$ above ! firm out] leg1 is to turn face inw>d1 & pass ! rope r\nd "s belay-po9t f "o h& to ! o!r4 ,! only way to make ?is s\nd1 t is1 to prev5t ! rope 9 case ( a slip com+ ^u ! rock z ^u a direct belay--s9ce ! grip ( "o h& on ! active rope mu/ be insuffici5t to act z an effective spr+1--is to give ! rope "o twi/ r\nd ! =e>m ( ! h& beh9d ! belay4 ,) ! rope half twi/$ r\nd ! free h&1 :i* is draw+ ! rope out 9 front ( ! belay1 we c apply1 z betwe5 ! tug ( ! arm beh9d & ! #8give' ( ! h& 9 front1 an effici5t spr+4 ,) su* a hold we mu/ wait = ! pauses ( ! man climb+ to pull 9 ! rope r\nd our belay4 ,to pull x 9 :ile he is actually climb+ deprives u ( any *ance ( apply+ ! h&-spr+ 9 "t4 ,i h notic$1 9 confirmation ( :at ,i h said be=e1 t ! m freely balanc$ & adroit a climb] becomes1 ! less (t5 he appe>s to f9d x necess>y to use ?is sort ( quasi-s\nd /ance4 ,on ! same l$ge :]e ! av]age man w\ld turn face inw>d = 8 rock belay1 ! exp]t w f9d "s good leg-?ru/ = a sideways body belay1 & w use ! rock po9t = an an*or-loop to protect a man above1 or (t5 only z an extra balance hold = 8 inside h& if he has to resi/ a pull f a man bel[4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,ord] on ! ,rope4 ,to get ! ord] on ! rope "r is z important a duty z to get m5 9 _! "r places on ! battlefield or ! polo-gr\nd4 ,e man %\ld take 8 %>e ( lead+ on suitable rock if he is ev] to improve or discov] himself2 b on difficult or uns\nd rock1 or on new climbs1 ! be/ climb] %\ld always lead & come d[n la/4 ,toss+ = ! lead is folly4 ,on easi] rock1 if ! ord] is n dictat$ by capacity or by fair alt]nations1 climb+ is too graci\s a sport = its prec$5ce to be settl$ by *uck-p5ny r ?an by c\rtesy4 ,! accept$ manag]1 9 cases ( d\bt1 mu/ decide4 ,a m\nta9e] :o ei!r f amiability or f incapacity to gauge a climb & 8 fri5d's p[] all[s a less exp]t climb] to lead or desc5d la/ on a climb :i* he kn[s or suspects w\ld te/ 8 own /r5g?1 is gravely at fault4 ,"s m51 h[ev]1 seem incapable ( rememb]+ h[ mu* ef=t a climb co/ !m4 ,!y h done an expos$ climb !mselves4 ,) ! pride t apes humility !y let "s en?usia/1 _! inf]ior1 h 8 way & lead x ! next "t1 confid5t 9 _! own skill1 or ! fallaci\s doctr9e ( ! belay1 to f9d a rem$y 9 ! la/ resort4 ,b difficult climbs are full ( passages :]e ! second man _c really protect 8 lead] or la/ man4 ,! lead] falls1 & ! rope1 if x does n break1 only s]ves to support an injur$ or n]v\sly %ak5 man4 ,:e!r ! results are s]i\s or slight1 ! error is equally great1 & ! exp]t ( ! p>ty is to blame4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,ord] on ,direct ,asc5ts & ,desc5ts4 ,9 p>ties ( equal m]it1 ( any numb]1 ! ord] is unimportant1 except t1 z /at$1 on difficult passages1 up or d[n1 ! mo/ exp]i5c$ leads up & comes d[n la/4 ,9 effici5t p>ties ( f\r1 or ( any ev5 numb]1 on easy & mod]ate rock1 x is be/ to rope 9 p>ties ( two1 asc5d+ or desc5d+4 ,9 p>ties ( ?ree ( unequal m]it1 ! weake/ man goes up la/ & comes d[n fir/1--) two exceptions ( :i* ,i speak lat] "u ! ,ord] ) ,beg9n]s4 ,9 p>ties ( f\r ( unequal m]it1 on easy & mod]ate asc5ts1 :]e ! lead] is good en\gh to require no special protection1 we may di/ribute ! skill1 & put a weak man beh9d ! lead]1 ! second be/ man ?ird1 & ! weake/ man at ! end4 ,! lead] & ! second /r+ c !n ea* look aft] "o tiro4 ,?is is especially advisable on asc5ts or desc5ts :]e ! rocks all[ ( all mov+ toge!r4 ,! accid5tal slip ( ea* weak] bro!r c be quickly correct$ if he climbs bel[ a good man2 :]eas1 if ! two weak m5 are put at ! tail1 ! slip becomes cumulatively p]il\s to ! p>ty4 ,on really easy asc5ts & desc5ts ) a p>ty ( ?is size & "*1 ! alt]native is admissible ( break+ into p>ties ( two1 ea* ( ! two m exp]t tak+ "o ( ! weak] m5 on 8 rope4 ,on asc5ts ( a m$ium class1 :]e movem5t may1 h[ev]1 h incid5tally to be "o at a "t1 ! ord] ( ! tail 9 a p>ty ( ?is con/itution is less important4 ,on h>d] sections ! wat*ful eye ( a /ation>y man above w always be on ! motions ( ea* climb] 9 turn1 & a slip c be *eck$ at once4 ,b if ! novices h n ev5 ma/]$ ! art ( hold+ f a /ance1 two ought n to be plac$ next to "o ano!r1 ev5 = ?is mov+ "o at a "t4 ,b /rong m51 ev5 z novices1 w always be able to le>n ! art ( /ance-tak+ be=e t ( cont9u\s mov+4 ,on really difficult rock1 or on new asc5ts or desc5ts1 ! lead] mu/ always be back$ up & secur$ by ! next be/ climb] ( ! p>ty4 ,on su* climbs z _m z two weak] m5 %\ld nev] be tak5 9 a p>ty ( f\r4 ,beh9d two good m5 "o novice may ju/ifiably be trail$ at ! end ( ! rope4 ,p>ties ( five or m1 :i* are cumbr\s = /iff climbs1 c take novices1 9 ! proportion ( two to five or ?ree to six1 if !y feel s dispos$4 ,on climbs :]e long trav]ses are anticipat$1 ei!r along ridges ( mod]ate difficulty or diagonally up or d[n faces1 ! be/ man /ill goes up fir/ & comes d[n la/4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,ord] ,= ,trav]s+ on ,faces & ,ridges4 ,9 a p>ty ( fairly equal /r5g?1 ! second be/ %\ld /ill come next to ! lead]1 if x is anticipat$ t ! major "p ( ! climb w be upw>d or d[nw>d & n on horizontal trav]ses4 ,on difficult diagonal trav]ses1 upw>d or d[nw>d1 x is /ill ( fir/ importance t ! lead] or la/ man %\ld be well secur$4 ,) ! same p>ty on horizontal trav]ses ! same ord] %\ld be foll[$4 ,b if "o memb] ( a p>ty ( ?ree is di/9ctly weak]1 & ! am\nt ( horizontal trav]s+ expect$ along a ridge or across a face is consid]able1--en\gh to involve a great] risk to ! p>ty 9 leav+ ! inexp]t man unprotect$ ?an 9 less5+ ! support = ! lead] or la/ man1--! weak] man %\ld be plac$ 9 ! middle ( a rope ( ?ree4 ,! second be/ man !n trav]ses1 9 asc5d+1 la/1 & 9 desc5d+1 fir/4 ,! weak] man is ?us protect$ at ei!r end ( 8 trav]ses & _c slip f>4 ,su* an irregul> ord]1 h[ev]1 mu/ dep5d ^u ! relative inf]iority ( ! weak] memb]1 & on ! am\nt ( horizontal trav]s+ expect$4 ,its )drawal ( support f ! lead]1 9 ! case ( a rope ( ?ree1 mu/ be recogniz$ z putt+ a l[] limit ^u ! /&>d ( difficulty :i* he1 ?us less secur$1 may w>rantably attempt 9 asc5d+ or desc5d+4 ,to put ! weak] man 9 ! middle deprives bo? ! fir/ & la/ man ( ! confid5ce ( ea* o!r's s\nd] protection4 ,x de/roys ! collective effici5cy1 & leaves a p>ty ( individuals1 n a comb9ation4 ,nev]!less1 x is an ord] too frequ5tly adopt$ by climb]s irrespective ( ! class ( difficulty expect$1 & ev5 ^u direct asc5ts & desc5ts4 ,x %\ld only be consid]$ ju/ifiable z a means ( gett+ an inexp]i5c$ man ov] p>ticul> horizontal passages2 & on difficult climbs1 if !y are und]tak5 ) su* a novice1 ! ord] %\ld be *ang$ back aga91 ev5 at ! risk ( loss ( "t1 s soon z ! horizontal passages cease1 or !re is expectation ( only a small proportion ( !m to come4 ,9 a m equal p>ty ( ?ree1 h[ev]1 :]e two are exp]ts & ! ?ird n a novice at climb+ b only less exp]t 9 alp9e r\te f9d+1 ^: pres5ce 9 ! middle does n1 !re=e1 weak5 ! rope mat]ially1 x is advisable = ! second be/ ( ! exp]ts to g 9 ! lead 9 desc5d+1 or 9 trav]s+ along & d[n big ridges ( no special difficulty4 ,he is bett] able to f9d ! be/ l9e1 & ?us leaves ! weake/ ( ! ?ree ) no o!r responsibility ?an to att5d to 8 own go+4 ,?is is a usual ord] = a guid$ p>ty 9 ! ,alps on long ridge "w3 ! guide at ! tail1 & ! be/ amateur1 or ! port] z ! case may be1 9 ! lead4 ,! ord] aga9 dep5ds ^u ! comp>ative ease ( ! rock "w = ! man desc5d+ la/4 ,9 a p>ty ( f\r1 simil>ly1 if !re are two weak] memb]s1 ^! two may well be put 9 ! c5tre = any p]iod ( difficult horizontal trav]s+4 ,! object is to avoid ei!r weak climb] hav+ to make a trav]se ( ?is sort at ! end ( ! rope & s only half protect$4 ,9 ?is ord] a p>ty ( f\r may move only "o at a "t1 & ! be/ & second be/ m5 mu/ act z fix$ an*ors at ei!r end ( ! rope :ile ! weak] m5 are successively mov+4 ,on any su* trav]se1 :]ev] ! lead] feels t all c move toge!r1 :i* w n be possible unless ! rock is easy en\gh to all[ ( ! weake/ man trav]s+ ! passage unaid$1 ! second be/ man %\ld aga9 sep>ate ! two less exp]t1 & s prev5t _! association ( inexp]i5ce & its cumulative effect 9 case ( a *ance slip4 ,on su* a passage ! lead] or la/ man w n1 by ! nature ( ! case1 require ! support ( a good second1 & he w be able to sp>e full att5tion to ! s+le novice plac$ beh9d him or1 9 desc5d+1 9 front ( him1 ^u ! rope4 ,! same ord] may1 on occasion1 be adopt$ ) simil> p>ty ( f\r on ! long easy trav]se or desc5t ( big alp9e ridges1 :5 two weak] climb]s are effici5t b n exp]t at r\te f9d+4 ,x is (t5 adopt$ ) guid$ p>ties3 ! guide at ! tail1 ! port] or ! be/ ( ! amateurs 9 ! lead1 to *oose ! l9e1 & ! o!r two free to look aft] !mselves & "o ano!r4 ,9 a rope ( f\r1 = exact+ horizontal trav]ses or = diagonal l9es up or d[n ridges or across faces ( any difficulty1 :5 ?ree m5 ( ! f\r are ( almo/ equal m]it & ! f\r? alone is inf]ior1 "o ( ! ?ree bett] m5 goes la/1 ) ! o!r two 9 ! lead1 9 asc5d+1 & "o ( ! ?ree goes fir/1 ) ! o!r two at ! tail1 9 desc5d+4 ,:]e !re is only "o exp]t on ! rope & two or ?ree less secure climb]s beh9d him1 diagonal or horizontal trav]ses ( any difficulty may nev] be attempt$1 unless ! lead] is prep>$ himself to hold ! rope & belay ! advance ( ea* ( ! o!rs sep>ately1 & 9 8 turn1 across e d\btful passage4 ,no climb]1 h[ev] good1 c c\nt on *eck+ 9 "t ! fall ( two o!rs2 & if "o novice slips on a rope s con/itut$1 & ! j]k comes fir/ on ano!r inexp]i5c$ climb]1 x is too late to hope to be able to /op ! cata/rophe4 ,! neglect ( ?is rule1 "o :i* x is difficult = a man 9 ! pride ( /r5g? & skill to obs]ve1 has be5 ! cause ( "s ( ! mo/ melan*oly ( accid5ts4 ,!re is "o v>iation 9 ! ord]1 only com+ into "q 9 big alp9e m\nta9e]+1 t mu/ be m5tion$ sep>ately4 ,occasionally on ! trav]se ( long level or gradually incl9$ alp9e ridges1 up or d[n1 :]e ! te*nical difficulty ( progress is n excessive1 b :]e1 ow+ to s]rat$ ridges1 cornices1 sn[-cov]$ t[]s1 etc41 ! risk ( accid5t is great] ?an ! difficulty1 & ! safe & swift managem5t ( ! rope is bo? intricate & important1 x is wis] = ! mo/ exp]i5c$ climb] ( a p>ty ( ?ree effici5t amateurs to g 9 ! middle1 & n 9 ! lead4 ,he c !n manage bo? ropes1 & leave 8 less exp]t fri5ds free to att5d only to _! own holds & progress1 :ile he has !m bo?1 z x 71 "u 8 h&4 ,z "s comp5sation = ! extra h9drance :i* ! managem5t ( ! two ropes w put 9 ! way ( 8 own climb+1 he has ! protection ( ! d\ble support himself f ei!r end4 ,?is ord] w be f\nd ( s]vice 9 sav+ "t & 9 prev5t+ risk :]e1 z (t5 9 amateur p>ties happ5s1 ! rope conta9s "o or m brilliant climb]s1 good en\gh to lead & to foll[1 b /ill inexp]t 9 ! advanc$ te*nique ( ! rope4 ,v>iegat$ alp9e ridges ( ?is brok51 cre/$ type are ! f9al te/ ( rope managem5t1 & progress is (t5 quick] & saf]1 = a p>ty s con/itut$1 ) ! exp]t lead] act+ z pivot & an*or 9 ! c5tre4 ,?is sort ( comb9ation1 "o or two m exp]i5c$ m\nta9e]s ) "o or two f9e b /ill inexp]i5c$ climb]s1 is frequ5tly ! p>ty pref]r$ by guideless ,briti% climb]s 9 ! ,alps2 & x is !re=e wor? :ile add+ "h t ! same ord] may be s\ndly adopt$1 ) su* a p>ty1 n only on trav]ses ( ridges1 b on big alp9e asc5ts ( l5g? & sev]ity4 ,x is especially important 9 su* comb9ations = ! accept$ lead]1 l a good /roke1 to keep some?+ 9 res]ve4 ,assum+ he kn[s 8 m5 to be good cragsm51 he may consid] himself free to put "o ( !m 9 ! lead 9 asc5d+ rocks1 = "p ( ! day at lea/1 himself reta9+ ! discretion>y p[] :i* is z well ex]cis$ f ! position ( second man1 & keep+ 8 actual /r5g? 9 res]ve = real em]g5cies or = situations call+ = exp]t m\nta9e]+ r ?an = rock climb+ te*nique4 ,if 8 object is to tra9 8 m51 he is ev5 bett] able to d s f ?is position4 ,?is =ms no exception to ! rule t ! be/ man %\ld g fir/ & la/ on new asc5ts & desc5ts1 & on all climbs :]e ! difficulty requires an exp]t m\nta9e]1 9 ! lead 9 asc5d+ or at ! tail 9 desc5d+4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,ord] ( ,m]it4 ,to be able to g fir/ & get up difficult places1 al?\gh a f9e quality & necess>y :]e only rock climb+ is 9 "q1 loses its unique importance :5 l>ge m\nta9e]+ exp$itions 9 ! great] ,alps come into consid]ation4 ,x is ! comb9$ effici5cy ( ! p>ty 9 ?is case t *iefly c\nts4 ,qualities ( managem5t1 ability to contribute ! mo/ to ! comb9ations ( ! p>ty1 to its res]ve ( p[]1 confid5ce & *e]fulness1 & s to increase its cont9u\s effectiv5ess1 are ! m>ks ( ! #8lead]' 9 great m\nta9e]+4 ,! bett] m\nta9e] may n be ! bett] able to g fir/ up passages ( excessive difficulty1 & may1 on occasions su* z ,i h m5tion$1 ev5 op]ate m pot5tly f ! c5tre ( ! rope4 ,!re h be5 cases ( m\nta9e]s :o h seldom if ev] l$ a big climb1 b to ^: managem5t1 res]ve p[] & cool judgm5t ! successes ( _! p>ty1 "u :atev] fir/ man ( ! mom5t1 h be5 really due4 ,"o mu/ n only see a rope 9 action1 "o mu/ climb ) x1 if "o wi%es to discov] ! actual #8lead+' m\nta9e] ( ! p>ty1 :o is contribut+ mo/ 9 a long day to ! collective effici5cy & safety4 ,= ! same reason we are n 9 a position to assign individual cr$it = ! great m\nta9e]+ feats ( ! pa/1 or to say ( a m\nta9e]1 8,he always _h fir/-class guides2 he nev] l$2 !y did 8 m\nta9e]+ = him20 or ( an amateur1 8,he always l$ 8 fri5ds3 8 0 ! cr$it60 ,x may safely be accept$ t on great alp9e climbs1 if ! p>ty has succe$$1 ! success has n m]ely be5 due to ! guide or fir/ man4 ,on su* climbs !re are :ole h\rs ( ! day dur+ :i* ! slip or %ortcom+ ( any s+le climb] may be fatal1 & :]e ! fact t ev5 "o man draws 8 unfair %>e f ! pool ( effici5cy c prev5t any *ance ( success4 ,to ! :ole p>ty belongs ! cr$it = a great climb4 ,its memb]s alone c v5ture to say ^: 0 ! mov+ _s1 or :at 0 ! ord] ( m]it4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,ord] ) ,beg9n]s4 ,beg9n]s may be ei!r real novices1 or only beg9n]s 9 alp9e "w1 r\te f9d+ & s on4 ,a complete beg9n] is m bo!r$ by ! managem5t ( ! rope ?an any?+ else2 !re=e x is bett] = our progress to let him come up la/ & g d[n fir/4 ,! exception is :5 we are desc5d+ by a r\te :i* is n easy to f9d or retrace4 ,we may !n put ! beg9n] "o f ! end1 9 a p>ty ( f\r1 ) a r\te f9d] ahead & two s\nd m5 beh9d him4 ,9 a p>ty ( ?ree we may put him 9 ! c5tre2 b n :5 ! climb+ is too /iff to ju/ify our leav+ to ! la/ man all ! tasks1 ( com+ d[n la/1 look+ aft] ! beg9n]1 & see+ t ! beg9n] looks aft] ! rope ( ! r\te f9d]4 ,) su* a p>ty1 on su* a desc5t1 ,i h (t5 pref]r$ to put ! be/ m\nta9e] 9 ! c5tre1 beh9d ! beg9n]1 to coa* him z to ! r\te & look aft] him1 :ile ! o!r exp]t desc5d$ on a %ort rope beh9d1 & look$ aft] himself4 ,(t5 he is m com=table if he unropes altoge!r4 ,! ju/ifiability ( ?is inv]sion ( ! ord] mu/ dep5d ^u a judgm5t at ! "t z to ! relative importance ( protect+ ! la/ man or ( f9d+ ! "r r\te at ! "r pace4 ,if ! rocks are really difficult1 ! beg9n] %\ld g fir/1 & ! exp]t beh9d mu/ coa* z to ! r\te4 ,su* an occasion seems to me ! only "o t really (f]s a good case = ! cont95tal practice ( putt+ r$ pap] "u /ones at suitable po9ts1 to guide ! desc5t4 ,z a rule1 a man ought to be able to f9d ! way d[n :]e he has gone up4 ,x is an important "p ( a beg9n]'s tra9+ to le>n ! habit ( turn+ & not+ ! look ( passages f ! rev]se direction :ile he asc5ds4 ,9 all cases ( a desc5t :]e no previ\s asc5t has be5 made1 ! p]missibility ( any alt]ation 9 ! usual ord] mu/ dep5d ^u our e/imate ( ! difficulty = ! la/ man4 ,if ! rocks are sev]e1 ! ord9>y ord] mu/ be pres]v$4 ,a beg9n] is always greatly hamp]$ by ! rope on bo? sides ( him2 & if we are mak+ a big exp$ition :]e progress & good temp] are ( m importance ?an a lesson 9 #8middleman' "w1 x is bett]1 :5 consi/5t ) safe m\nta9e]+1 to arrange t he is ei!r on a rope ( two1 or at ! free end ( a rope4 ,aga91 be x 9 a l>ge or a small p>ty1 x is always well to put him1 or h]1 def9itely 9 *>ge ( "s "o1 if n ( ! lead]2 :o w prec$e him go+ up & foll[ him d[n1 :atev] ! o!r ord] on ! rope may be2 act+ z coa* & g5]al buff]4 ,= ! same purpose1 9 a rope ( ?ree on easy asc5ts1 :ile "o ( ! two good climb]s leads1 ! o!r is (t5 bett] plac$ climb+ imm$iately beh9d ! beg9n]1 %eph]d+ 8 or h] feet1 giv+ %\ld]s1 /eadies1 etc4 ,9 a rope ( f\r1 simil>ly1 on easy or mod]ate asc5ts1 we put "o ( ! ?ree bett] climb]s beh9d ! beg9n]4 ,! man looks aft] 8 own rope1 & is ( m use 9 coa*+1 help+ & succ\r+ ! beg9n] ?an he w\ld be z an extra re9=cem5t above4 ,?is is ! s\nde/ me?od ) wom5 novices or *ildr54 ,x is n suitable on really difficult rock2 b !n nei!r are wom5 novices or *ildr54 ,a s+le exp]t tak+ two su* beg9n]s up a v easy climb1 m especially if !y are girls or boys1 ^: /ances & hold+-p[] = ea* o!r _c be dep5d$ ^u1 (t5 does be/ to put himself 9 ! middle ( a long rope4 ,he asc5ds fir/ & desc5ds la/1 z usual2 b by ?is arrangem5t he c himself br+ up or l[] ! two beg9n]s sep>ately to or f ea* /ance1 ) less confusion ( ropes4 ,on v easy ridges1 ) a light foll[+1 if he ties himself betwe5 !m s z to leave ! ropes ( diff]5t l5g?s1 he c (t5 save "t by br++ up bo? beg9n]s simultane\sly1 "o />t+ aft] & climb+ bel[ ! o!r4 ,an exp]t climb+ ) two su* novices %\ld always himself1 be=e attempt+ any passage n absolutely easy1 see t ! rope or ropes to himself are an*or$ at ! end close to 8 foll[+1 leav+ free = himself ! full run-out ( rope he w require4 ,he %\ld nev] risk _! security 9 case ( 8 slip1 or 8 own security :ile climb+1 by all[+ ! rope to be paid out z he goes by anyone ignorant ( its managem5t or too weak to *eck 8 fall4 ,on ,briti% climbs1 su* z may be1 9 _! g5]al difficulty1 p]missible to attempt ) beg9n]s1 !re are sometimes passages1 say ( slabs1 :i* a novice weak 9 ! arms f9ds he or %e simply _c manage )\t be+ hoi/$ on ! rope4 ,no exp]t w make "o ( a p>ty ( two ) a beg9n] on any climb :]e he expects su* a passage1 unless he is v sure ( a good /ance above x1 f :i* to haul1 & ( 8 own /r5g? 9 relation to ! weight ( ! novice4 ,9 a p>ty ( ?ree :5 su* haul+ has to be done1 x saves ! /ra9 on ! rope1 on ! second man's arms & on ! novice's n]ves1 = ! lead] to wait ) 8 second man on ! /ance above ea* p>ticul> pit* until ! novice has be5 haul$ up4 ,he c also s5d d[n a second rope1 & s divide ! ef=t4 ,if necess>y1 he unties f 8 end ( ! rope1 9 ord] to h a second rope to s5d d[n4 ,if ?is is done quickly & effici5tly1 less "t is lo/ ?an if ! second man has to d all ! pull+ alone & on 8 s+le rope4 ,9 su* cases we mu/ see t ! haulee uses 8 feet to scrape ) at lea/1 & ?ru/s out f ! rock ) 8 h&s4 ,if he cl+s ) h&s & body to ! rock1 ! ef=t1 = all p>ties1 is d\bl$ by ! friction4 ,frequ5tly on su* places x is only ! matt] ( "o arm-pull or s at ! />t ( a pit* t proves insup]able1 especially = wom54 ,if !re is no ?ird climb] to propel ! novice1 x is !n bett] = ! second man to wait on ! /ance bel[ ! pit*1 to pass up ! rope to ! lead] above1 & himself to give a knee & %\ld] z foo?olds up ! difficult section4 ,! actual haul w ?us be %ort]2 or its necessity may be avoid$ altoge!r4 ,on expos$ cliffs x is a mi/ake to leave ! novice alone at ! end ( a long rope if !re are difficult problems to tackle1 & especially if ^! include any trav]ses4 ,x is try+ = ! n]ves & n good = ! /yle4 ,if ! p>ty is n l>ge en\gh to h "o climb] always 9 att5dance on ! novice1 ! middle man %\ld give him or h] 8 company z (t5 z 8 fir/ duty to ! lead] w all[4 ,if1 ^u easy rock1 a novice is tak+ 8 lesson 9 lead+1 ! be/ climb] %\ld foll[ him on z %ort a rope z ! rocks w all[4 ,b he mu/ avoid bu/l+ or flurry+ him1 & obs]ve all ! rules ( etiquette due to a lead]4 ,any reque/ f a beg9n] = a #8little pull1' or = putt+ on ! rope1 mu/ be always & at once compli$ )4 ,delay or reason+ may be dang]\s1 & w 9 any case %ake confid5ce4 ,! rope is = protection1 n]v\s z mu* z physical4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,ord] ( ,mov+4 ,9 asc5d+ easy rock or 9 trav]s+ easy ridges1 all c be mov+ toge!r1 if ! /r5g? ( ! p>ty all[s x4 ,on difficult asc5ts or ridges1 9 a p>ty ( ?ree or less1 ea* moves s+ly4 ,9 a p>ty ( f\r1 once ! lead] is up1 numb] ?ree may br+ up numb] f\r :ile ! lead] is br++ up numb] two4 ,on /eep asc5ts ( mod]ate difficulty1 9 a p>ty ( ?ree1 if ! second man is really s\nd & ! /ances all[ ( 8 manag+ two ropes1 "o runn+ out & "o runn+ 91 he may br+ up ! ?ird man :ile ! lead] is /ill climb+4 ,b ! lead] mu/ be aw>e t he is do+ s4 ,9 a p>ty ( f\r1 on su* asc5ts1 ! second & f\r? man c always be climb+ simultane\sly4 ,?is d\ble movem5t saves mu* "t on long climbs4 ,on desc5ts ! same rules hold1 9 ! rev]se ord]4 ,= a /rong p>ty a possible v>iant may be m5tion$4 ,if ! la/ man is s\nd1 & feels himself secure1 he c let numb]s two & ?ree desc5d to ! full l5g? ( _! ropes1 bo? climb+ at ! same "t4 ,numb] two />ts z soon z numb] ?ree has run out 8 rope1 & s he enables numb] ?ree to desc5d ano!r l5g? )\t pause4 ,! la/ man !n desc5ds to numb] two1 mov+ alone4 ,on 8 arrival ! o!r two />t simultane\sly aga94 ,if numb] ?ree1 h[ev]1 is n dep5dable en\gh to move entirely )\t protection f numb] two1 x is s\nd] = numb] two to rema9 at an*or :ile numb] ?ree desc5ds2 b ! la/ man mean:ile desc5ds to numb] two4 ,9 ?is case ! la/ man & numb] ?ree climb simultane\sly1 :ile numb] two rema9s at an*or betwe5 !m1 & desc5ds alone4 ,on ei!r sy/em a ?ird ( ! "t is sav$4 ,b all su* accel]ations mu/ dep5d ^u ! relative difficulty ( ! sev]al sections :i* ea* 9 turn is desc5d+4 ,if ! l[e/ man wi%es to be secur$ ov] a section1 he mu/ say s2 & !n numb] two mu/ n desc5d simultane\sly ) him4 ,if numb] two has f\nd ! passage ( "s section h>d1 he w ne$ to give 8 full att5tion to ! la/ man :ile he is desc5d+ x2 & he mu/ n !n all[ ! l[e/ man to be desc5d+ at ! same "t z ! la/ man4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,duty ( ! ,fir/ ,man4 ,! lead] on ! rope may be ! manag] ( ! p>ty2 b he %\ld be1 on any climb ( difficulty1 ! be/ climb]4 ,8 bus9ess is to get up rocks capably1 & to get 8 p>ty up4 ,he is responsible = gett+ !m out ( _! difficulties1 & also = n tak+ !m into !m4 ,he mu/ "k :at ! m5 beh9d him c d1 z mu* z :at he himself c d1 on any giv5 day4 ,he sets ! pace1 selects ! /ances & directs ! movem5ts ?r\gh\t ! climb4 ,he mu/ be able to conc5trate absolutely ^u 8 task4 ,he mu/ be compet5t to di/+ui% betwe5 difficulty & dang]1 & to obs]ve ! diff]5ces betwe5 our two sorts ( dang]--betwe5 ! objective p]ils ( fall+ /ones1 /orm1 etc41 & ! subjective dang]s :i* =m a nimbus ( pot5tial risk surr\nd+ e po9t ( difficulty1 contract+ or enl>g+ accord+ to ! capacity ( ea* climb] deal+ ) ! difficult po9t4 ,to excel1 he mu/ be c]ta9 ( kn[+ 8 normal /&>d & 8 /&>d ( ! day2 be /eel aga9/ spasms ( mi/ru/1 t consume /r5g? ev5 m ?an n]ve2 be resolute 9 advance1 z resolute timely to retreat4 ,mo/ lead]s h _! p]sonal tricks :5 #8all out4' ,"s are ,olympian & impassive2 "s talk to !mselves2 "s l to lull a ho/ile pit* into security by l\dly prote/+ its hopelessness1 ) half a hope ( cat*+ x unaw>es2 "s l to hum or :i/le2 o!rs h a tune or phrase runn+ 9 _! heads--mo/ ( u "k ! com=t ( work+ our muscles to ! accompanim5t ( "s rhy?m1 audible or imag9>y4 ,consci\sly or n1 e lead] draws ^u ! pool$ confid5ce ( ! m5 beh9d him4 ,9 return he owes x to !m to *]i% ! confid5ce s f> z he c4 ,he %\ld avoid %>+ 8 d\bts ov] "s difficult place ) 8 fri5ds unnecess>ily4 ,!y _c help him1 & he w only und]m9e _! confid5ce4 ,he %\ld nev] make demon/rations :i* may al>m ^? ( ! p>ty :o _c see _! true orig91 or be ( any use if !y c\ld4 ,if he has a well-tri$ second1 :o kn[s too mu* ab\t him to m9d1 he may let (f /eam to him4 ,a little my/]y & sil5ce are r a good fault 9 a fir/ man2 m5 d n want to be ov]-enlight5$ be=e _! turn comes4 ,b ) a sil5t lead] we are dep5d5t ^u a good second man to keep ! p>ty in=m$ z to :at is really happ5+4 ,x is v depress+ to be kept %iv]+ on holds1 & n ev5 "k :e!r ! pit* is #8go+1' or is ev5 go+ to #8g4' ,a lead]'s solit>y battle ) natural =ces is s p]sonal & isolat$ t x is h>d] = him to rememb] always :at a heavy responsibility he c>ries = ! :ole p>ty4 ,no man b ! lead] ev] kn[s :at 7 ! risks he ran or h[ ne> 8 %aves may h be54 ,he is induc$ to =get !m by ! reliev$ admiration ( ^? :o h foll[$ him on ! rope1 only too delight$ to get up4 ,v few w be ill-mann]$ en\gh aft]w>ds to recall _! real feel+s z !y wat*$ him take a ra% *ance1 or tell him !y ?\ght him a silly ass4 ,! lead] has great] privileges1 great] fre$om & great] responsibilities ?an any o!r man ( a p>ty4 ,to des]ve !m1 he mu/ nev] cease to /udy = o!rs1 nev] fe> to decide = himself4 ,9 ! words ( a v great m\nta9e]1 x is 8t deta*m5t ( m9d1 commonly call$ c\rage1 :i*1 comb9$ ) high p[]s1 alone makes ! great lead]40 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,duty ( ! ,second ,man4 ,! qualities requir$ = a good second man are all b z important to a rope z ^? ( ! lead]1 & are m r>ely f\nd 9 _! p]fection4 ,a few #8born' lead]s1 :o h le>n$ _! bus9ess by long exp]i5ce1 are indep5d5t ( actual help & advice2 b all lead]s are1 consci\sly or n1 mu* influ5c$ 9 _! /&>d ( ! day1 by ! feel+ ( ! _s or ! exp]i5ce t is back+ !m imm$iately beh9d4 ,a fir/ man capable ( rock "w ( ! high mod]n /&>d mu/ possess a #8temp]am5t4' ,he is (t5 a man ( moods4 ,! limit ( physical possibility is s con/antly approa*$ on rock1 t only m5 capable ( high n]v\s conc5tration1 able to call out _! full /r5g? & borr[ aga9 f _! vitality & w1 c keep _! /&>d ( p]=mance securely up to ! level dem&$4 ,9 su* p]=mance ! fa9te/ d\bt 9 ! lead]'s m9d ( ! confid5ce or capacity ( ! man beh9d1 ! m]e/ suspicion t 8 second man is n absolutely sure ( 8 own /ance or confid5t 9 81 ! fir/ man's1 lead+1 may l[] a s5sitive lead]'s ability tw5ty or ?irty p] c5t4 ,! lead]'s m9d is di/ract$2 8 conc5tration on ! s+le ef=t is dissipat$4 ,ev5 good1 s\nd climb]s1 :o take ! important second place on ! rope )\t kn[+ its duties1 may retreat day aft] day to ! inn speculat+ ) _! fri5ds :y _! lead] has s sudd5ly #8gone (f'3 q unconsci\s t !y !mselves are alone responsible4 ,! lead] himself may be1 crossly1 unaw>e ( ! reason4 ,n infrequ5tly 9 su* cases1 9 a vex$ reaction f con/ant turn+s back1 he loses 8 bett] judgm5t & =ces himself to attempt some?+ reckless ! next "t he goes out4 ,?is w d him no good2 nor w any?+1 until he *anges 8 p>ty or f9ds reason = bett] confid5ce 9 8 second man4 ,sid5ote3 ,back+ up1 metaphysically4 ,a great univ]sity /roke us$ to say t1 give him a good #8sev51' & he didn't c>e h[ ! re/ ( ! boat 0 mann$4 ,almo/ to ! same ext5t1 a good second makes a rope4 ,he %\ld be /rong1 able to give a %\ld]1 arm or h&1 & to c>ry 8 lead]'s sack z well z 8 own4 ,he mu/ be a f9e en\gh climb] to be able to foll[ up a /ep or two 9 ! mo/ awkw>d places1 & !nce to sp>e a h& to re/ ! lead]'s /r5g? or give him a fre% />t4 ,he mu/ be equable 9 temp]1 optimi/ic1 &1 :atev] 8 private ?\ghts1 nev] less ?an *e]ful4 ,above all1 he mu/ h ! knack ( transmitt+ 8 own feel+ ( confid5ce1 s t ! lead] may feel a com=table curr5t ( reassurance com+ f 8 second's secure /ance to 8 own prec>i\s advance4 ,if 8 lead] is ( ! highly /rung1 n]v\s class f :i* _m great lead]s are drawn1 he mu/ le>n to gauge him exactly1 "k :at =m he is 91 & decide :e!r he is up to do+ ! p>ticul> problem1 s f> z 8 climb+ p[]s are conc]n$4 ,if he decides he c1 he mu/ lay himself out to give j ! quiet enc\ragem5t t w put 8 lead] 9 ! "r /ate ( m9d to use 8 p[]s at _! be/4 ,z to h[ he effects ?is1 mu* mu/ dep5d on ! p]sonality ( ! lead]4 ,_m a lead] objects to be+ talk$ to4 ,conv]sation is g5]ally wa/e ( climb+ "t4 ,he may take c\ncil h[ to d a place be=eh&1 b once he has />t$ x w only di/urb or di/ract him to he> advice or be ask$ anxi\s que/ions4 ,none ! less he is (t5 quickly aw>e ( ! #8atmosph]e' beh9d him2 & he becomes consci\s1 )\t words1 if 8 second's att5tion w&]s or if 8 confid5ce is wav]+4 ,= ?is reason x is bad =m1 z well z a sign ( inatt5tive m\nta9e]+1 = m5 to *att] to "o ano!r :ile ! lead] is do+ some?+ t requires all 8 skill4 ,mu* ( 8 individual p[] is drawn f _! sympa?y1 t %\ld be !n c5tr$ ^u him alone4 ,& ?is applies n only to ! climb+ ( ! lead]4 ,x is q z bad =m = him1 :5 he is safely up1 to ex*ange airy jokes across ! head ( ano!r climb] 9 ! ?roes ( a passage4 ,a ^w or movem5t he>d1 or /ill worse1 half he>d1 takes (f ! climb]'s att5tion & dissipates ! conc5tration necess>y = a delicate balance or a supreme hoi/4 ,"s lead]s l ask+ que/ions ab\t _! difficulties1 to :i* !y expect answ]s1 )\t any int5tion ( att5d+ to !m4 ,o!rs let (f /eam by decl>+ t x #8won't g1' or !y're #8com+ d[n4' ,prote/ or argum5t w irritate !m2 :at !y are really ask+ =1 unconsci\sly1 is ! confid5ce note 9 ! voice beh9d !m1 ! s5se ( a human sympa?y t realizes _! difficulty b yet feels !m equal to x4 ,x helps !m greatly to be assur$1 by ! tone m ?an by ! words1 ( ano!r exp]t's complete belief 9 _! ability to proce$4 ,! second man gives 8 lead] n only ! support ( 8 own fai?3 he is ! funnel to ! lead] ( ! unit$ _s1 ! mutual support1 :i* are pool$ by ! p>ty1 & ^u :i* ea* draws aga9 = 8 individual ef=ts4 ,9 8 m dang]\s & isolat$ "w ! lead]1 :o ne$s x mo/1 is mo/ sep>at$ f its atmosph]e1 & x is ! second man's duty to keep him 9 t\* ) x1 to control1 z x 71 ! signals & air-pipes t keep ! div] 9 t\* ) humanity & reassure him 9 8 "w4 ,at ! same "t1 ! second man %\ld relieve ! lead] 9 difficult climb+1 z f> z possible1 ( all unnecess>y physical lab\r3 = in/ance1 avoid ask+ help = himself ) ! rope2 relieve him ( pull+ up ! re/ ( ! p>ty2 c>ry ! sacks2 & s on4 ,he mu/ be able1 at times1 to manage ! lead]'s rope & t ( ! man beh9d himself simultane\sly4 ,he has at su* times to control ! movem5t ( ! p>ty1 & det]m9e :5 x is prop] = ! next man to />t4 ,he mu/ decide :]e x is safe to let 8 lead] run out 8 rope1 ) no m att5tion ?an w suffice to prev5t x cat*+1 & :]e1 on ! o!r h&1 8 rope w require e att5tion4 ,8 rope1 belay & /ance te*nique mu/ be z practis$ z 8 judgm5t4 ,if he decides t ! passage is beyond ! lead] on 8 /&>d ( ! day1 he %\ld take ! responsibility ( say+ s def9itely1 & %>e ! vexati\s responsibility ( turn+ back4 ,if a lead] has be5 #8all out' on a pit* & yet fail$1 8 judgm5t w be = ! mom5t di/urb$1 & 8 decision z to :e!r he w try aga9 or turn may n be a consid]$ "o4 ,b if he has le>n$ to tru/ 8 second1 he w take 8 op9ion 9 pref]5ce to 8 own1 ev5 ?\gh he might be himself consid]$ normally ! manag] ( ! p>ty4 ,if x be to g =w>d1 9 spite ( prec$+ failure1 !n he w r5ew 8 attempt ) r$\bl$ confid5ce2 if x be to turn back1 he w h ! consolation ( feel+ t 8 second man 0 9 ! be/ position to wat* ! orig9al ef=t1 & 0 !re=e bett] able to judge if a new attempt c\ld succe$ "u any circum/ances4 ,! second man has ?us a mo/ responsible position4 ,:ile ! lead] is conv]t+ himself into a motor eng9e to get ! p>ty up ! climb1 ! second man1 ev5 if he be n accept$ z su* already1 becomes ! tempor>y manag] or m9d ( ! p>ty1 consci\s ( x 9 all its me*anism1 & n only ( its dynamic lead]4 ,9 sev]e rock climb+ s mu* ( ! lead]'s en]gy & "t is sp5t on ! physical /ruggle & 9 isolat$ situations1 t ! position ( second may become = h\rs toge!r ! really vital "o on ! rope4 ,8 selection & education %\ld be ! fir/ consid]ation = a p>ty ( ambition or m]it4 ,sid5ote3 ,back+ up1 physically4 ,9 discuss+ ! ord] on ! rope1 we said t on all exact+ rock ! second man )\t exception backs up 8 lead]1 beh9d him go+ up1 9 front ( him go+ d[n4 ,on easi] passages he may ei!r lead ! rope on a desc5t1 or come betwe5 two weak] climb]s on an asc5t or desc5t4 ,! duties involv$ 9 back+ up dep5d ^u ! situation4 ,if ! passage ( desc5t to be made is long & holdless1 & ! lead]1 aft] lett+ ! re/ d[n1 is unable to make use ( ! d\ble rope1 8 second %\ld rema9 z close z possible to him4 ,a good second1 f v sket*y /ances1 c (t5 give j t t\* ( help or direction :i* makes ! la/ man's desc5t less solit>y & prec>i\s1 & is ( m use to him ?an mu* an*or+ ( 8 rope ^u remote plat=ms bel[4 ,9 asc5d+1 aga91 by putt+ a h& or an axe "u a lead]'s heel :5 8 toe is n ov]-secure1 a second c (t5 give 8 lead] a security great] ?an 8 own may be at ! mom5t4 ,9 fact1 ! duty ( ! second man1 if he judges ! place w g at all1 is to sacrifice 8 own com=t & d any?+ t is n a def9ite risk to help ! lead] to get up m safely4 ,a t\* to 8 balance or foo?old1 judici\s & opportune1 is wor? m z a protection ?an n9e coils r\nd a billi>d-table b\ld] w\ld be to him aft] he has slipp$4 ,b back+ up is subject to c]ta9 re/rictions2 a second mu/ rememb] t he _c d two ?+s at once4 ,if he helps ) h& or %\ld] or head1--t is1 9 climb+ p>lance1 if he selects to id5tify himself ) ! active rope1--he has g5]ally to sacrifice mu* ( 8 value z buff] or an*or-man betwe5 ! lead] & ! p>ty4 ,to be ju/ifi$ 9 s prejudic+ 8 security z an an*or1 he mu/ feel :olehe>t$ly c]ta9 t 8 lead] w n fail4 ,x is (t5 difficult to f9d a position ( compromise1 su* z w all[ him really to help ! lead] & also to reta9 8 protective an*or = ! p>ty4 ,he mu/ be guid$ prim>ily by :at he judges to be be/ = ! collective safety1 & only secondly by :at contributes mo/ to _! success 9 gett+ up ! climb4 ,if he decides t no back+ up on 8 "p c make c]ta9 ! lead]'s asc5t1 :il/ x sacrifices1 9 ! attempt1 8 an*or 9 case ( 8 fall1 he mu/ /ay by 8 secure an*orage1 & to su* ext5t dim9i% ! lead]'s *ance ( success4 ,b if he sees t 8 back+ up c j make ! diff]5ce to ! lead]'s safe & c]ta9 asc5t1 he is free to comb9e ! claims ( safety = ! p>ty & success = ! lead]1 & move decisively & promptly to ! lead]'s support4 ,= a second man compromise1 9 su* a *oice1 is always ineffective & sometimes dang]\s4 ,z "o small in/ance3 p>tly ) ! idea ( do+ bo? ?+s1 & p>tly f n]v\sness1 _m inexp]i5c$ seconds cl+ z close to ! rock z !y c :5 !y are giv+ ! lead] a #8%\ld]1' s z to rema9 m secure !mselves4 ,?is is wrong4 ,! ne>] 8 human support /ays to ! rock1 ! m difficult is x = ! lead] to keep 8 balance z he /&s ^u him4 ,if 8 second man !n rises1 z is (t5 requir$ ( him1 s z to give 8 lead] an extra lift1 z he /&s on 8 %\ld] or 8 h& or 8 head1 8 ne>ness to ! rock ?ru/s ! lead]'s feet inw>d & 8 balance outw>d4 ,! second man1 :5 he gives a #8%\ld]1' %\ld aim at giv+ a really secure /ep on knee or hip or %\ld] or head 7= a good second c make 8 body a regul> /aircase1 & pa9lessly1 if he makes ! "r adju/m5ts7 z f> away f ! rock z he c securely ?ru/ himself1 ev5 to full arm's l5g?4 ,he is !n 9 a position ( "s use2 & %\ld ! lead]'s re-desc5t be necess>y1 he c sometimes let him pass d[n inside1 betwe5 himself & ! rock4 ,a good hold c be giv51 on a firm /ance1 by mak+ a /irrup ( ! lock$ h&s = ! lead]'s foot1 & !n /raight5+ ! back ) a lift4 ,! tight5$ muscles ( ! ?igh1 well above ! knee1 give a pa9less foo?old4 ,! /rong muscles at ! junction ( ! neck1 back & %\ld] ( a /oop+ man1 b n on ! po9t or 9 ! curve ( ! %\ld]1 are good = a foo?old4 ,! hip-bone1 provid$ t ! leg us+ x is press$ close aga9/ ! ribs ov] ! hip1 makes a useful foo?old = a man desc5d+ f ! %\ld]s4 ,9 mak+ use ( ^! anatomical holds1 ! climb] mu/ rememb] nev] to %uffle or screw 8 boot once x is plac$2 o!rwise ! human frame is good = f> m use ?an its own] w usually tol]ate4 ,i h _h a guide ( "s weight1 b ( delicately manag$ feet1 walk+ f my %\ld] to my head & back aga9 = tw5ty m9utes1 :ile he 0 try+ to noose ! l[] p9nacle on ! ,*>moz1 )\t feel+ any great discom=t4 ,! second man %\ld nev] give a lead] s climb+ any pu% or lift t w come to him unexpect$ly4 ,x is n uncommon to see a second man grasp a lead]'s foot1 z soon z x moves (f 8 %\ld]1 & %ove x indiscrim9ately upw>d1 reg>dless ( ! lead]'s balance or ! holds he may be design+ to use4 ,! human ladd] is only ( use 9 s f> z ! lead] c calculate exactly ^u its location & function2 x mu/ rema9 = him z passive z any "p ( ! rock he is engag$ )4 ,he /eps f ! ?igh1 puts 8 knee on "o %\ld]1 & br+s 8 o!r foot up on to ! o!r %\ld]2 or he cl+s up 8 second's back1 if ! second is /&+ upright1 by knee pressure aga9/ 8 sides4 ,once he is up1 he mu/ "k exactly :]e he w be able to put knee or foot 9 return+4 ,if he has to desc5d f ! rock on to 8 second aga91 he ne$ b>ely use 8 boot at all4 ,! in/ant 8 toe has discov]$ ! position ( ! %\ld] bel[1 he c slide 8 leg d[n ! back & let himself slip d[n1 & ! friction ( ! two surfaces ( clo!s w regulate 8 desc5t until 8 h&s h rea*$ ! support+ %\ld]s4 ,he mu/ cl+ z close z possible to 8 second's body & b5d inw>ds1 s z to relieve ! outw>d /ra9 ^u 8 second's balance1 & he mu/ nev] let 8 desc5d+ weight pull ^u him askew4 ,! in/ant 8 lead] is up & at re/1 by ! help ( 8 impulses1 moral & physical1 ! second man %\ld prep>e to foll[1 & z he approa*es ! lead]'s /ance he %\ld notice exactly h[ he has plac$ himself1 s t :5 ! lead] moves out he c put himself 9 ! same position = hold+4 ,!re %\ld be no ne$ = him to h to #8get com=table4' ,if ! ?ird man is requir$ to come up be=e ! lead] />ts aga91 ! second man %\ld at once call1 8,come60 & n wait to be ask$1 8,are y all "r80 ,^! seconds are1 cumulatively1 mo/ valuable4 ,9 a good p>ty ! ?ird man w be ready to />t ! in/ant he ga!rs t ! man above has tak5 8 /ance4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,duty ( ! ,?ird ,man4 ,9 big alp9e climb+1 or on long m\nta9e]+ exp$itions 9 g5]al1 yet ano!r gr\p ( duties comes into prom95ce :i* _c well be dis*>g$ by ! lead] & second man1 :o w h suffici5t to d 9 look+ aft] _! respective functions4 ,^! create ! position1 = su* climb+1 ( :at may be/ be t]m$ a #8?ird man1' ?\gh ! p>ty may consi/ ( f\r or m1 & ! duties may be subdivid$4 ,if ! second man's duties may be call$ #8back+ up1' ! ?ird man's are ^? ( #8foll[+ up4' ,he mu/ be /rong & able to c>ry1 s t ! sp>e rope & sacks ( ! lead]s 9 really s]i\s situations c all be dis*>g$ on to 8 %\ld]s )\t hesitation4 ,he mu/ be exp]t en\gh to manage a belay = bo? 8 lead]s1 if ! situation dem&s ! second man back+ up ! lead] on an expos$ passage1 & be able to give !m at lea/ ! moral support ( 8 s\nd an*or+ ( ! rope4 ,he mu/ h no false pride1 & be prep>$ to get up himself z be/ & quicke/ he c1 us+ ! rope to save "t4 ,he mu/ be always pati5t1 ready to /& & %iv] 9 8 /eps )\t compla9t :ile ! difficulties are solv$4 ,he mu/ take ! inevitable loos5$ /ones1 fly+ ice-*ips & cle>$-(f sn[ incid5tal to 8 l[] position ) a h>d5$ he>t &1 if possible1 on a h>d head1 ) no m ?an reasonable prote/1 & be able to see ! hum\r ( sn[ melt+ d[n 8 neck ) ! *e]fulness t x w aft]w>ds he f\nd to h caus$ to 8 fri5ds4 ,he mu/ be prep>$ to g la/1 beh9d any weak] memb]1 if !re be f\r or m m5 9 ! p>ty1 & to look aft] him1 foll[+ him up closely :]ev] he is able1 )\t expect+ help himself or mu* att5tion to 8 own rope4 ,he mu/ be good-temp]$1 ready to set ! example ( accept+ decisions to turn back )\t discussion & ev5 )\t kn[+ _! reasons1 & prep>$ 9 crises to rema9 quietly reassur+ )\t bo!r+ 8 occupi$ fri5ds ) que/ions4 ,8 use is1 directly1 z a support ( /r5g? & *e]9ess to ! lead] & ! second man if ! s]i\s nature ( ! climb+ dem&s _! comb9$ preoccupation1 &1 indirectly1 z an example ( g5ial co-op]ation & #8foll[+ up' to o!r memb]s ( ! p>ty4 ,9 a s5se e memb] ( ! p>ty %\ld be a #8?ird man'2 b 9 big und]tak+s x is ( und\bt$ help to ! lead] & second to h "o man ^u :om !y c specially rely to look aft] ! hum\r ( ! re/ 9 ! try+ times ( wait+ :ile !y !mselves are work+ out ! difficulties2 to relieve !m ( ! m9or tasks ( c>ry+ & direct+2 & to come up )\t pride or prote/ 9 inconv5i5t ways1 to inconv5i5t places1 at conv5i5t times4 ,sid5ote3 ,m ab\t ! ,rope dur+ ,climb+4 ,dur+ all ! intricate manuvres incid5tal to comb9$ climb+1 ! wat* on ! rope may nev] be relax$1 & a few fur!r h9ts z to its managem5t may be useful to lead]s & foll[]s alike4 ,) a rope1 z ) a horse1 anticipation is ! secret4 ,once x cat*es1 or k9ks1 or entangles1 ! result is nightm>e4 ,( its control1 :5 m5 are mov+ toge!r1 ,i h already spok53 ! p]petual glance1 & flick1 & sw+1 to keep x free1 t mu/ become subconsci\s4 ,9 climb+ s+ly on /eep asc5ts1 ! rope1 z x is drawn out by ! man climb+ above1 mu/ be wat*$ z well z held1 & w>n+ mu/ be giv5 to him t x is runn+ out at lea/ f\r feet be=e x is taut4 ,?is is a prim>y rule4 ,to j]k ! man climb+1 by a hit*1 or to let ! rope closure 8 advance )\t suffici5t w>n+1 is an unp>donable fault4 ,z we draw 9 ! rope ( a man asc5d+ or desc5d+ to our /ance1 x %\ld be ga!r$ 9 neat coils1 ne> ! belay if "o is us$4 ,above all1 x %\ld be laid well out ( ! way--at ! back or side ( ! /ance4 ,9 pull+ 9 ! rope we mu/ always consid] exactly :]e ! next man w come up & h[ he w /&2 & lay 8 coil1 z x runs 91 z well z ! coil ( ! man ahead1 :i* is runn+ out1 :]e !re is no *ance t ! re> man w be =c$ to #8cross' ei!r rope4 ,if our h&s are occupi$ ) hold+ or ) ! belay1 s t we h no "t to coil x d[n1 ! slack ( ! rope %\ld be flung ev5ly ov] ! arm1 or some:]e out ( ! way1 z x runs 94 ,! mom5t ! next man is up x %\ld be pass$ to him 9 its *ance coils2 or else1 if x has coil$ d[n neatly1 x may be left ly+ :]e x is4 ,if a belay has be5 us$1 ! end ( ! rope runn+ 9 %\ld be tak5 (f ! belay z ! next man rea*es ! /ance1 :ile ! end ( ! rope ne>e/ our own wai/ is put ov] x1 ly+ always 9 ! direction 9 :i* x w aft]w>ds h to be paid out4 ,^! op]ations h to become practically me*anical4 ,! in/ant ! next man takes our place on ! /ance & imitates our la/ position1 ! rope1 rightly laid1 %\ld be ready to 8 h&4 ,on sev]e climbs !re is (t5 n room = two m5 at ! same "t on ! same /ance or plat=m4 ,to avoid any awkw>d juggl+ on ! l$ge1 x is be/ = u1 if we are hold+1 to move a /ep or two f ! belay1 s soon z we see ! next man has got a good h&hold ne> ! /ance t w br+ him securely & imm$iately to ! belay4 ,9 ?is case x is ess5tial = u to leave ! ropes ly+ exactly "r1 s t ! next man may take position to protect himself1 & u1 ) ! %orte/ possible int]ruption to ! safe cont9u\s an*or ( ! rope4 ,! man :o is actually climb+ is ! man fir/ to be consid]$4 ,to cle> ! way = him we mu/ be prep>$ mom5t>ily to sacrifice our own com=t or solidity4 ,?is may seem a commonplace1 b x requires q an ef=t ( w4 ,i h rem>k$ ev5 among good cragsm5 t sev5 times out ( t5 !y wait too long on ! /ance1 until ! next man is on ! top ( !m1 & ropes & legs are all 9 a muddle4 ,b :51 ) ! object ( leav+ ! next man room1 we move out ( 8 way (f a /ance1 we mu/ take note exactly ( :at is go+ to be our own l9e ( advance :5 he is secure & we />t ! next section2 & we mu/ avoid mov+ into any position :i* w mean repass+ & unsettl+ him1 or ev51 z "o sometimes sees done1 climb+ ov] him4 ,ap>t f ! risk to 8 & our own balance1 we %all almo/ inevitably entangle ! rope by a swit*back ( ?is sort4 ,9 pull+ 9 ! rope ( an asc5d+ man1 we %\ld be m9dful to keep x j taut1 b nev] tight5$ or tugg$1 unless he calls = x4 ,x requires "s education ( t\* to di/+ui% betwe5 ! ?ree4 ,guides are wret*$ judges 9 ?is respect4 8,don't pull60 8,ni*t zieh560 8,ne tirez pas60 is ! groan ( prote/ t eddies all ! week r\nd alp9e c5tres4 ,b ! guide rema9s conv9c$ he m]ely _h ! rope #8taut4' ,all lead]s :o h nev] or seldom practis$ go+ beh9d on ! rope are apt to make ! same mi/ake4 ,! compla9t is con/ant4 ,! diff]5ce betwe5 #8taut1' #8tight5$' & #8tugg$' is be/ le>nt f bel[4 ,on ! o!r h&1 _m climb]s :o h nev] l$ are equally unconsci\s ( ! diff]5ce1 & ( h[ mu* !y owe on occasion to a discreetly h&l$ rope4 8,y didn't pull me !re60 or1 8,i did t )\t ! rope1 anyway60 are ! common =ms4 ,only a climb] exp]i5c$ 9 balance c hone/ly di/+ui% betwe5 ! con/rict+ tug t takes 8 :ole weight1 ! taut rope t is only precaution>y1 & ! delicate tight5+ t j s]ves to keep 8 body 9 balance & s all[s fre$om to h& & foot to f9d easy holds4 ,! fir/ is call$ 8us+ ! rope10 ! second 8)\t us+ ! rope10 & ! la/ guileless b mat]ial aid to adju/m5t is (t5 euphemi/ically entitl$ 8! moral support0 ( ! rope4 ,i mu/ repeat t1 h[ev] easy ! place or good ! climb]s1 a man :o calls = ! rope1 or a pull f ! rope1 %\ld always be help$ at once4 ,inexp]i5c$ climb]s are incurably prone to argue t ! rope is n really ne$$4 ,"s accid5ts h be5 caus$ 9 ?is way4 ,! rope %\ld be put on be=e r ?an :5 x is really want$4 ,! rope ( a man desc5d+ to our /ance1 especially ( a man desc5d+ la/1 dem&s no disc]nm5t betwe5 subtl] /ra9s2 b x requires ev5 m adroit h&l+4 ,x mu/ nev] be j]k$ or tight5$1 :i* may pull him (f 8 balance holds4 ,if x appe>s to be cat*+ on int]v5+ po9ts1 x mu/ be loos5$ ) ! lighte/ ( flicks3 a /rong flick w run up ! rope & j]k him l ! crack ( a heavy :ip4 ,x mu/ nev] be left loose to drag or cat* close to 8 feet1 :]e x w get 9 ! way ( 8 foo?old or get r\nd 8 feet or legs4 ,if he has a long rope out1 ! weight alone ( ! rope1 if we hold x any?+ l taut f bel[1 w drag on him4 ,x is be/ 9 su* case to keep x slid+ g5tly d[n ! rock t[>ds u4 ,z ! climb] moves d[n1 a v slight motion ( our h& w j free x1 )\t tak+ its weight (f ! rock4 ,our eye %\ld nev] = an in/ant leave a man s desc5d+ to1 or asc5d+ f1 our /ance1 s t if he f9ds x necess>y to reasc5d or r$esc5d a few in*es 9 ord] to bett] 8 holds or position = ! next movem5t1 we may at once be ready to relax or take 9 ! extra coil he requires or releases4 ,if he is out ( our sight :ile desc5d+ t[>ds u1 we wat* ! rope1 :i* tells u z mu* z ! sight ( ! man4 ,if he is out ( sight :ile asc5d+ above u1 our feel ( ! rope z x taut5s or slack5s w tell u almo/ z mu* z sight or spee*4 ,b a man asc5d+ or desc5d+ out ( sight bel[ u w h to tell u :at he wants1 if x is any?+ m ?an ! usual /eady play+1 out or 91 ( ! taut rope4 ,if1 z (t5 happ5s 9 ! case ( a man :o is j climb+ up (f our /ance1 ! rope1 ow+ to 8 hav+ ti$ 8 wai/-knot 9 front1 or cross$ ! rope1 makes a spiral r\nd 8 leg1 he %\ld be w>n$ at once1 & we mu/ hold ! rope ready to sw+ x f "u 8 foot z he raises x = ! purpose4 ,?is sometimes also happ5s if a man is desc5d+ quickly on to our /ance4 ,9 nei!r case mu/ ! rope be j]k$ or swung1 to release x1 )\t 8 k or ! signal ( 8 lift$ foot4 ,simil>ly1 if a man is />t+ to desc5d f our /ance1 & has 8 rope knott$ 9 front1 z he turns face inw>d ! rope makes a spiral r\nd 8 neck or arm4 ,a w>n+1 & a light sway ( ! rope may prev5t him f anticipat+ fate4 ,9 climb+ ) beg9n]s x is always wor? :ile see+1 be=e !y leave our /ance1 t ! knot ( _! wai/-loop is secure1 & pull$ r\nd well to ! side1 "u ! arm4 ,= asc5d+1 ! rope %\ld run up /raight f ! knot1 9 front ( ! %\ld]2 = desc5d+1 9 front ( or beh9d ! %\ld]1 z balance & ! angle ( ! rock sugge/4 ,a v risky practice1 common ) beg9n]s1 is t ( us+ ! active rope z a h&hold 9 difficulties1 to pull !mselves up by4 ,unless !y c rea* a balanc$ position 9 "o pull1 !y are =c$ !n to keep hold ( ! rope = _! balance1 & to take yet a second & high] hold ^u x = _! next movem5t4 ,!y are ?us accumulat+ a quantity ( slack betwe5 _! po9t ( dep5d5ce f ! rope & its noose on _! wai/4 ,& a slack rope is full ( dang]s4 ,if _! grip fails1 !y fall all ! l5g? ( ! slack1 & ! rope may break4 ,if x does n1 ! man above w be subject$ to a mo/ unfair j]k1 ( ^: possibility he may be all ! "t unconsci\s4 ,9 any case1 ! climb] is depriv+ himself ( ! /eady help & protection ( a rope1 pull$ 9 taut f above1 on j ! passages :]e he has f\nd himself lea/ capable to cope ) ! difficulties unaid$4 ,no climb] %\ld use ! rope z h&hold )\t full w>n+ to ! man above1 & )\t mak+ c]ta9 t he c 9 a s+le pull rea* a balanc$ /ance1 :]e ! rope c be aga9 drawn taut ^u him4 ,sid5ote3 ,) ,/ones4 ,to avoid s5d+ d[n /ones ) ! rope is a sure te/ ( exp]t climb+4 ,a climb]'s responsibility 9 ?is respect ext5ds ! :ole l5g? ( ! rope betwe5 him & ! companion ^: progress he is sup]9t5d+4 ,9 ! case ( a man above u1 we h a p]sonal int]e/ 9 see+ t 8 rope does n drag ov] loose pebbles or cat* on dis9tegrat+ po9ts4 ,9 t ( ! man bel[ u1 our p]sonal int]e/ may be less1 b x w be no less appreciat$4 ,x mu/ be rememb]$ t ! rope z x comes 9 taut w t\* & dislodge mu* t seem$ out ( its range :5 we select$ its l9e ( pull-94 ,an inspection %\ld be made to discov] if !re are any pebbles lurk+ j ov] or on ! edges ov] :i* x w pass4 ,^! la/ are a special dang] 9 c\loirs or ,briti% gullies1 :i* consi/ l>gely ( /eep pit*es surm\nt$ by accumulations ( loose scree4 ,x is (t5 saf] & m tempt+ to move up to ! top ( ^! scree spits & n to an*or on ! imm$iate lip ( ! pit*4 ,great c>e has !n to be tak5 to remove all loose /ones f ! l9e ( ! rope2 = ! rope :5 taut w drag ov] ! edge ( ! pit*1 & ev5 app>5tly firmly emb$d$ /ones may "w loose "u its friction :5 x is too late to move !m into safety4 ,if a rope l5g? has be5 all[$ to sag aga9/ ! rock1 x mu/ n be pull$ 9 or j]k$ free hurri$ly1 unless we c see t !re is no?+ x might loos54 ,ov] surface visibly friable or pa/ur+ /ray /ones ! rope mu/ be kept f t\*+ at all--a delicate task 9 cont9u\s go+4 ,:5 m5 are all mov+ toge!r1 & our h&1 :ile seek+ = its holds1 is also *>g$ ) loose coils & ! task ( free+ ! rope1 x is (t5 difficult to comb9e an att5tion to all ! loose /ones t may be caught by ! sw++ coils ) a simultane\s precaution aga9/ possible loose /ones "u our feet or h&s4 ,( c\rse we give w>n+ if "o gets loose 9 spite ( our c>e4 ,b ,i mu/ add t x is consid]$ no valid excuse among m\nta9e]s to plead t a /one 0 dislodg$ by ! rope4 ,sid5ote3 ,dur+ ,halts4 ,! rope1 dur+ halts or int]ruptions1 %\ld nev] be left ly+ ab\t 9 a tangle4 ,x may cat* ov] po9ts f :i* x w be difficult to release x4 ,i rememb] an occasion on an ,aiguille :5 x took a qu>t] ( an h\r to extract "s loose l5g?s1 :i* _h jamm$ 9 a deep cleft ( ! slab on :i* we 7 /&+4 ,halts = lun* are full ( dang]s4 ,m5 beg9 to cross & recross ea* o!r's ropes1 = mat*es or = conv]sation1 & at ! end ( ! halt a maze pres5ts itself :i* c only be solv$ by long1 impassion$ mom5ts ( g5]al unty+ & r]op+4 ,x is bett] = ! two end m5 to unrope = ! halt1 & leave _! coils ready = easy resumption4 ,two middle m5 c only get _! rope twi/$1 n cross$4 ,:5 a middle man f9ds1 z (t5 happ5s1 t ! ropes go+ backw>d & =w>d f 8 wai/-knot h got twi/$ r\nd "o ano!r & make a bun* at 8 wai/1 he has only got to lift ! upp] ( ! two ropes ov] 8 head & pass x "u 8 feet ! requisite numb] ( times1 to cle> x4 ,once1 aft] an eighte5 h\r trav]se ( ! ,d5t ,blan*e by ! ,vi]eselgrat1 we took a midnight halt on ! glaci]1 & on re-/>t+ f\nd ! rope inextricably int]wov5 betwe5 ! five ( u4 ,! guides 7 tir$1 too tir$ to unrope1 or to move eurhy?mically2 & ! next t5 m9utes ( fr5zi$ gyrations1 ) ! lant]ns :irligigg+ r\nd "o ano!r 9 ! d>kness among ! crevasses1 w rema9 a picture z preci\s z its moral4 ,sid5ote3 ,coil+4 ,at ! end ( a climb ! rope %\ld be c>efully coil$ up1 s t ! loops w run out )\t entanglem5t4 ,to coil ) ! lay ( ! /r&s avoids k9ks4 ,we nev] "k :5 next ! rope may be ne$$ 9 a hurry2 & ! unknott+ evolutions1 ! pass+ ( ! long ends1 etc41 are m irritat+ be=e a late />t ?an a late return4 ,dur+ coil+1 ! loops %\ld be caught up 9 ! h&1 ) ! lay1 & laid aga9/ "o ano!r1 b n all[$ to cross4 ,= mo/ m51 especially if !y pref] to c>ry ! rope r\nd _! *e/1 ! mo/ conv5i5t l5g? ( coil is t made r\nd ! sole ( ! boot & ! knee4 ,"s pref] coil+ r\nd ! h& & ! elb[4 ,a conv5i5t trick = f9i%+ (f su* coils is to b9d ! loose end once or twice r\nd ! :ole mass ( coils ne> "o end1 & !n ?read x ?r\gh ! small] ( ! loops into :i* ! :ole coil is ?us divid$4 ,! loose end1 s ?read$1 makes a com=table %\ld]-/rap1 by :i* ! :ole coil c be susp5d$ ov] ! back4 ,?is me?od ( fix+ ! end is less tr\ble to undo ?an ! m usual me?od--to tw9e bo? loose ends ( ! rope ?r\gh & r\nd & r\nd ! f9i%$ coil 9 opposite directions1 & knot !m :]e !y meet4 ,?is =ms a s+le firm hoop to hang ov] "o %\ld]4 ,= ?is s+le hoop1 h[ev]1 a /ill bett] way to f9i% is to make a half-hit* on ! coil ) "o loose end1 & !n w9d ?is "o end 9 a spiral r\nd ! coil 9 ! same direction z t ( ! spiral ( ! rope-/r&s4 ,:ile w9d+ ?is loose end1 twi/ its /r&s tight ) ! f+]s4 ,_! incl9ation to untwi/ w keep ! spirals cl++ close r\nd ! coil4 ,yet ano!r conv5i5t & quick me?od ( coil+ ! rope1 suitable = %ort int]vals ( disuse1 is t ( l9k+ x 9 #8*a9 knots'3 %ort loops are successively pull$ ?r\gh "o ano!r 9 a cont9u\s l9k+ *a91 & ?is is !n swung ov] ! %\ld]4 ,! rope %\ld only be left 9 *a9-knots = %ort p]iods4 ,! rope c be c>ri$ ei!r z a hoop r\nd ! %\ld]s1 or1 m conv5i5tly1 hung ov] ! %\ld]-/raps1 z a cu%ion betwe5 ! rucksack & ! back4 ,if x is wet or heavy1 x is be/ to put x 9 an empty sack1 or to fix x1 by means ( /r+ or its loose ends1 upright betwe5 ! %\ld]s1 l a rucksack4 ,if ! rope is new1 & has got wet1 x is well to uncoil x 9 ! ev5+ & susp5d x1 nei!r /ra9$ nor taut1 r\nd ! bani/]s or loop$ along a wall4 ,x is wrong to /ra9 a wet rope1 z _m climb]s d4 ,x /ret*es ! twi/ & weak5s ! resili5ce :i* is its /r5g?4 ,if a rope has k9k$ dur+ a climb1 or f be+ left wet 9 coil1 9 ord] to cle> ! k9ks x is n necess>y to untwi/ !m ) ! h&4 ,! rope ne$ be only grasp$ "s di/ance f its end ) "o h& & swung r\nd circul>ly 9 ! direction oppos$ to ! twi/ ( ! k9ks4 ,!y "w !mselves free1 & ! h& c !n be %ift$ f>!r up ! rope1 & repeat ! sw+ = ano!r section4 ,! rope %\ld nev] be dri$ 9 ! sun or ne> a fire4 ,! rope %\ld be exam9$ aft] e asc5t1 & at int]vals dur+ ! day1 = bruises or fray$ /r&s4 ,a s+le fray$ /r& ju/ifies ! cutt+ or reject+ ( ! rope4 ,an old rope %\ld nev] be us$4 ,guides are c>eless 9 ?is respect4 ,sid5ote3 ,suitable ,l5g?s4 ,"s p>ties pref] to h _! rope 9 l5g?s ( #de to #ee feet4 ,ea* climb] is rop$ sep>ately1 & ! middle m5 ?us we> two wai/-nooses4 ,?is me?od all[s ( rapid *anges ( ord]1 ( easy sep>ation into p>ties ( two1 & s on4 ,= mo/ rock climb+ a l5g? ( #fj feet is all t is requir$ = ! lead]4 ,a rope ( #ajj to #abj feet is suffici5t = ?ree4 ,= p>ties ( f\r1 "o l5g? ( #fj feet = ! lead]1 & "o ( #ij to #ajj feet = ! re/1 are g5]ally f\nd correct4 ,= p>ties ( two1 ! l5g? dep5ds on ! "* ( ! climb 9 prospect4 ,b ! lead] requires m initial all[ance = absolute security1 s9ce x is awkw>d1 ) only two m51 = "o to unrope 9 critical positions & give 8 lead] m z he requires x4 ,9 l>g] p>ties ?is is less risky4 ,a run-out ( #ej to #fj feet is usually accept$ z ! maximum :i* a lead] %\ld all[ himself1 & mo/ s\nd climbs on rock (f] good /ances )9 or at ?is di/ance4 ,a few exceptional climbs ne$ #hj or #ajj feet2 b _! suppos$ numb] is con/antly be+ r$uc$1 z lat] p>ties at _! great] leisure discov] adequate an*orages at %ort] int]vals4 ,at di/ances ( #ajj feet1 or ev5 less1 ! rope ceases to be ev5 a moral reassurance to ! lead]1 & its drag alone dim9i%es 8 security4 ,if he has a foll[+ on su* climbs :o _c get up )\t ! help ( ! rope1 to c>ry x coil$1 & let x d[n :5 he rea*es 8 remote plat=m1 may be ! saf] c\rse4 ,sid5ote3 ,funicula4 ,our fir/ lesson is to le>n h[ to knot ! wai/-loop quickly1 & h[ to untie ourselves4 ,our second1 to unravel exp$iti\sly ! entanglem5ts t invade ! rope dur+ ! extra manuvr+ :i* ! pres5ce ( inexp]i5c$ climb]s entails4 ,! be/ end-man knot c be made ) a s+le cont9u\s movem5t ( ! h&4 ,! me?ods ( rop+ & knott+ are dealt ) else:]e2 b we mu/ rememb] to re-exam9e wai/-knots frequ5tly1 = ourselves & ! inexp]i5c$4 ,! noose sometimes slips d[n or becomes dang]\sly loose amid ! confus$ dis>rangem5t ( g>m5ts :i* /iff rocks excite4 ,cases h occurr$ :]e m51 slipp+ on rock or into a crevasse1 h all b fall5 out ( _! c>eless wai/-nooses1 & h rema9$ susp5d$ by "o armpit4 ,!oretically we always rope r\nd ! *e/2 b r\nd a l>ge *e/ or tap]+ ribs ! rope w n /ay up1 unless x is too tight to be com=table4 ,consequ5tly _m m51 & all wom51 pref] to rope r\nd ! wai/4 ,anyone :o1 l myself1 pref]s to keep ! rope up r\nd ! *e/1 w f9d a conv5i5t device is to pass ! end ( ! rope1 aft] ty+ ! knot1 ov] "o %\ld]1 & knot x lightly on to ! noose aga9 beh9d4 ,?is prev5ts ! weight ( ! rope1 especially 9 ! case ( a lead]1 f pull+ d[n ! noose r\nd ! false *e/4 ,if a climb] has to make a jump :ile on ! rope1 he mu/ give notice fir/1 & be sure t he has en\gh slack rope n to j]k 8 fri5ds or spoil 8 own jump4 ,beg9n]s & boys are apt to jump 9 unexpect$ places1 & to =get t !y h ! rope on4 ,on b\ld]s & su*-l problems1 :]ev] height & difficulty make ! protection ( a rope f above advisable1 ! climb] %\ld be rop$ on prop]ly4 ,to dangle a loose cord pa/ him1 z is s (t5 done1 is worse ?an useless4 ,x tempts him to risky assays2 & !n1 if he slips1 x is utt]ly impossible = him to save himself by snat*+ at ! rope4 ,an unrop$ man :o calls = ! rope is g5]ally unable to free m ?an "o h& to tie himself on4 ,!re=e ! loop1 already ti$1 %\ld be s5t d[n to him1 :i* he c "w "u 8 armpits s]iatim4 ,fail+ a loop1 he %\ld twi/ ! rope r\nd 8 =e>m2 b nev] tru/ to ! grip ( ! h& alone4 ,if he is )9 rea*1 x is (t5 easi] to give him a h& ?an ! rope4 ,a h&-clasp is n /rong en\gh = a %e] lift4 ,ea* man %\ld grasp ! o!r's wri/2 or !y %\ld crook & int]lock _! f+]s4 ,?is la/ is a v p[]ful hold4 ,e climb] %\ld "k h[ to make ! simple hit*es = s5d+ up sacks or axes on ! rope4 ,an undue proportion ( ! wa/$ mom5ts ( my own life h be5 sp5t 9 unravell+ ! labyr9?9e #8granny' knots ) :i* well-mean+ fri5ds h plott$ to protect ! asc5ts ( _! sacks4 ,! #8/irrup' & o!r m>ab\t rope-tricks may be /udi$ 9 rescue h&books4 ,! rope1 z a support1 precaution>y1 corrective or moral1 _c be too m9utely /udi$2 b z a means ( evasive traction1 or deta*$ !rial flight1 x ne$ n occupy ! mundane climb]4 ,,*apt] ,,vi ,,corrective ,,me?od ,m\nta9 craft has = its object to get u up & d[n m\nta9s )\t mi/akes4 ,all our tra9+ aims at r$uc+ cont9ually ! limits )9 :i* our mi/akes might occur4 ,b human be+s are fallible1 & m\nta9s are p]v]se4 ,mi/akes w /ill be made2 & x is our bus9ess to le>n h[ to rem$y !m1 z well z h[ to avoid !m4 ,our corrective te*nique mu/ seek to prev5t mi/akes develop+ into disa/]s2 &1 a fur!r /ep1 guide u to a "r conduct :5 ! disa/] c no long] be prev5t$4 ,climb+ accid5ts h a !atrical appeal1 because ( _! dramatic circum/ance1 & ! _w at l>ge has an exagg]at$ notion ( _! frequ5cy4 ,comp>$ ) o!r active sports1 9 :i* ! elem5t ( dang] is tacitly accept$ z "p ( ! fasc9ation1 climb+ has a s+ul>ly cle> record4 ,aviation1 hunt+1 sail+1 football--_! toll ( fatal accid5ts is accept$ almo/ )\t comm5t4 ,only 9 m\nta9e]+ does ! sudd5 & spectacul> sugge/ion ( annihilation make ! isolat$ accid5t fl>e l innum]able />s 9 ! imag9ative public eye4 ,& yet ( ,briti% m\nta9e]s n "o p] c5t are kill$ climb+4 ,,human ,,fallibility ,al?\gh fatal accid5ts are extremely r>e1 falls1 slips & mis/eps are common1--z common1 & z a rule no m h>mful ?an falls out hunt+ or skat+4 ,!re are falls f ov]-confid5ce1 falls f inexp]i5ce1 & falls f pure accid5t 9 all active sports4 ,x lies ) ! exp]i5ce & skill ( ! p>ty to prev5t su* a climb+ fall be+ any?+ m ?an an int]ruption4 ,x 7 bett] avoid$ altoge!r3 b climb]s are n all p]fect at _! />t1 & m\nta9s may be p]v]se2 & x is only s5sible to recognize t mi/akes mu/ occur 9 spite ( all precaution1 & to /udy h[ to deal ) _! effects4 ,a safe m\nta9e] climbs )\t /umble1 b he is also always al]t to *eck "s "o else's incipi5t slip4 ,! managem5t ( ! rope has prev5tion ( accid5t z its fir/ object4 ,b correction ( ! consequ5ces is its second4 ,sid5ote3 ,giv+ ,w>n+4 ,:5 m5 are mov+ s+ly1 up or d[n /eep rock1 a fall t c injure %\ld be impossible = anyone b ! lead] or la/ man4 ,if ! ord9>y precautions are obs]v$1 a slip ( a few in*es is ! mo/ t c result4 ,b al?\gh we may c\nt ^u ea* o!r's al]tness1 we mu/ give ! rope1 & ourselves1 e *ance4 ,if we feel a hold giv+ or muscles fail+1 we mu/ give w>n+ at once1 & !n hang on = j ! extra second--ne>ly always possible--:i* w all[ our fri5d above to brace e muscle to meet ! direct pull1 or to intrude 8 utmo/ #8spr+' betwe5 ! rope & ! belay4 ,!re exi/s a sup]/ition t to fall sil5tly is to fall c\rage\sly4 ,! man above is sure to hold--8t's 8 bus9ess02 :]eas our own conc]n1 9 su* extremity1 lies only ) our own dignity4 ,b ev5 9 fall+ we rema9 a memb] ( ! p>ty1 & we h no "r to indulge a p]sonal gratification4 ,& s a quick #8,look out6' & ! fraction ( a second's hang-on1 :i* are en\gh to secure ! conc5tration n only ( ! an*or-man b ( all ! rope1 mu/ be c\nt$ z our b\nd5 duty4 ,! same obligation holds good 9 ! case ( a p>ty all mov+ toge!r along a ridge1 or up or d[n an easy climb4 ,if "o man feels 8 foo?old or 8 balance go+1 he has always ! in/ant's "t to %\t a w>n+ be=e 8 weight c come on ! rope4 ,! man beh9d1 if !re is "o1 w h _h 8 eyes on him & w be ready2 x is ! man 9 front1 ) 8 back turn$1 :om he has to consid]4 ,?is front man w1 if he is climb+ s\ndly1 h be5 all along tak+ holds ) 8 m>g9 ( resi/ance 9 m9d4 ,he w also h be5 not+1 if n us+ 9 rapid passage1 all ! po9ts = a possible an*or ( ! rope4 ,! in/ant's w>n+ w enable him to brace z he /&s1 )\t look+ r\nd1 or to fl+ ! rope r\nd a po9t to support himself be=e ! j]k comes4 ,9 su* climb+ ! rope is nev] q taut betwe5 climb]s1 & !re w be ! run-out ( ! l5g? ( rope slack5$ by ! man fall+ to add to ! int]val ( "t :i* 8 %\t %\ld h giv5 = prep>ation4 ,! la/ man on ! rope1 :5 all are mov+ toge!r 9 asc5t or desc5t1 has a special obligation to give ?is timely w>n+1 s9ce no "o has him 9 view4 ,! in/ant he he>s ! w>n+ or ! scrape on ! rock1 e man braces 8 muscles1 &1 if possible1 an*ors 8 rope4 ,a practis$ e> di/+ui%es at once betwe5 ! ord9>y clean scrape ( a climb+ boot & ! scuffl$ scrape ( a slip1 or ! snap ( a break+ h&hold4 ,on a ?or\ghly unit$ rope x sometimes seems z if a premonition ( ! imm95t slip mu/ h rea*$ a good climb] 9 front1 ev5 be=e ! s\nd1 "s consci\sness ( an int]ruption 9 ! curr5t ( sympa!tic action1 s sure has be5 ! anticipation & swift ! *eck4 ,b a man :o has himself pass$ a passage has already a half-realiz$ idea ( ! sort ( trap x may pres5t1 ev5 if he himself evades x1 & 8 quick5$ s5ses are ! soon] prep>$ = ! n]ve-?rill t prec$es ! actual w>n+ by z mu* z ?\ght c out-di/ance s\nd4 ,sid5ote3 ,eas+ ! ,*eck4 ,if a climb] has _h no w>n+1 or = o!r reasons _c at once brace into a secure position1 he %\ld let ! rope slip ?r\gh 8 h& until he has _h "t to adju/ 8 balance4 ,?is is "o ( ! occasions :5 gloves are a help4 ,! fir/ t\* w tell him if he c hold fa/ at once or mu/ let ! rope slip = ! mom5t4 ,v few falls on places :]e a p>ty is able to move toge!r are absolutely cle>1 or come ) ! full j]k ( ! :ole weight at ! />t4 ,?is is especially ! case on sn[1 :]e friction also *ecks ! pace4 ,i h _h on sev]al occasions ! man above or bel[ me 9 a /eep sn[ or ice c\loir fall out ( a break+ /ep :ile we 7 all desc5d+ toge!r4 ,on an occasion :5 ! man bel[ me slipp$1 my fir/ ef=t to *eck ! rope told me t ,i 0 n firm en\gh4 ,a second or two 7 ne$$ to all[ myself & ! man rop$ to me above to get #8plant$4' ,i p>tially *eck$ ! rope ?ree times1 & _h to let x g aga9 at co/ ( h& & glove1 be=e ,i felt ! rope f ! man above tight5 on my wai/1 & s knew t we 7 ready to take ! full j]k toge!r1 f our comb9$ /ances4 ,! int]m$iate *ecks _h brok5 ! impetus suffici5tly to make ! f9al arre/ easy4 ,on ano!r occasion 9 a /eep c\loir1 :5 ,i 0 desc5d+ fir/1 ! man above me slipp$1 & ! la/ man on ! rope1 !n 9 mid-/ride1 0 unable alone to *eck ! slide at once4 ,he !re=e let ! rope ru% ?r\gh 8 h& until ! slid+ man _h spun d[n pa/ me4 ,!n1 ( c\rse1 my rope to him also came into action1 &1 divid+ ! %ock betwe5 u1 we easily /opp$ ! fall4 ,on rock1 z a rule1 su* gradual *ecks are impossible4 ,=tunately ^u rock1 9 proportion z ! ne$ = an imm$iate *eck is ! m imp]ative1 firm /ances1 ) s\nd rock h& & foot holds & complem5t>y an*ors r\nd rock po9ts1 are m pres5t & in/antly s]viceable4 ,sid5ote3 ,*eck+ on ,trav]ses4 ,! middle m5 on trav]ses are adequately protect$1 & ne$ only be *eck$ 9 ! usual mann]4 ,b if a lead] or la/ man falls1 be=e or beh9d u1 on a long trav]se1 x is n suffici5t m]ely to hold firmly or to hold ! belay4 ,if we rema9 /\tly inactive1 he w h en\gh rope out to fall f> en\gh = injury be=e ! rope c tight51 & f> en\gh to risk a snap 9 ! rope :5 ! full j]k comes4 ,! rope mu/ be snat*$ 9 z he falls1 r\nd ! belay or loose 9 ! h&s4 ,if ! fall is f our own level1 or f only diagonally above u1 we c tight5 ! rope at once1 & ?is s]ves to give a sideways tug to ! man fall+1 :i* less5s ! =ce ( ! f9al j]k z he sw+s 9 bel[ u4 ,dur+ a fall ( fifty feet f a trav]se on our level1 !re may be "t to race 9 a fif? ( ! l5g? be=e ! j]k comes4 ,on su* trav]ses1 except 9 a p>ty ( two1 !re w be usually "s "o else on our own level1 or ne> x1 :o w %>e ! %ock ) u by tight5+ 8 rope on our wai/4 ,if ! ?ird man is ne> en\gh to help 9 actually hold+ ! loose rope1 or 9 belay+ x z x comes 91 s mu* ! bett]4 ,we are ! fre] ourselves to ru% 9 z mu* ( ! fly+ slack z "t all[s u4 ,if he is n ne> en\gh to help1 we mu/ be prep>$1 z we _c pull 9 & secure ! rope at ! same "t1 to let ! rope te> out aga9 :5 ! j]k comes1 tight5+ & relax+ x ?r\gh our h&s until we are c]ta9 t our balance has surviv$ ! %ock4 ,! action ( ! p>ty ( two 9 l circum/ance is consid]$ lat]4 ,aft] ! #8fall' ( a man f above or on our level1 or aft] ! few in*es ( d[nw>d movem5t1 m prop]ly t]m$ a #8decl9e1' :i* are all t a well-manag$ rope w p]mit to a man bel[ u1 x is bett] to l[] ! man d[n to a good /ance1 r ?an yield to a univ]sal incl9ation & attempt to haul him up ov] ! gr\nd he has lo/ be=e he has recov]$ w9d & n]ve4 ,x means less ef=t = bo?4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,case ( ! ,end ,m54 ,a lead]1 or a la/ man d[n1 does n fall4 ,x is ! fir/ condition ( 8 hegemony t he mu/ n4 ,8 fall f any height mu/ mean injury to himself1 & may involve ! :ole p>ty4 ,9 insul> climb+1 :]e di/ances to hotels & rescue are small & easy desc5ts usually available1 a man may1 if he desires x1 & 8 second man all[s x1 take ! *ance ( fall+ & hurt+ himself1 provid$ t 8 p>ty is safely an*or$4 ,8 injury !n only involves c]ta9 h\rs ( delay & dang]\s exposure = himself1 & su* anxiety & fatigue to 8 fri5ds z !y may suff] 9 f9d+ help & 9 rescu+ him4 ,b 9 ! ,alps1 to fall z a lead] is to fail lam5tably & egregi\sly z a m\nta9e]4 ,to fall1 get injur$ & survive 9 ! ,alps is m actually dang]\s to ! re/ ( ! p>ty ?an to get kill$4 ,its memb]s mu/ sep>ate4 ,"o at lea/ mu/ risk exposure & o!r objective dang]s & /ay ) ! injur$ man4 ,"o1 or two1 if happily !re are f\r 9 ! p>ty1 mu/ face ! p]il ( desc5t alone1 probably late 9 ! day1 c]ta9ly %ak5 by ! accid5t1 to seek help4 ,! risks & difficulties ( m\nta9e]+ are increas$ t5fold = a lonely man1 or = a p>ty return+ ?us %or?&$ & unbalanc$4 ,m ?an once ! p>tial incapacitation ( "o climb] has result$ 9 ! dea? ( "o ( ! fri5ds :o w5t to get help = him4 ,9 big m\nta9s we may n take *ances1 n ev5 ! y\nge/ ( u4 ,rock climb]s :o h le>n$ h[ to take _! risks only = !mselves on our own hills1 ) op5 eyes & 9 no ra% _s1 & ?9k to take !m also only = !mselves :5 !y g to ! ,alps1 are all too commonly bl9d to _! v diff]5t conditions & ! f> grav] collective effects ( an individual blund]4 ,an injur$ man 9 ! ,alps means a crippl$ p>ty4 ,^? un9jur$ are h&icapp$ 9 "t1 comb9ation & n]ve to meet ! consequ5t race ) d>kness or ! *ances ( night1 & fro/1 & crevasse1 & avalan*e2 b !y are =c$ to take ^! risks 9 d\ble measure1 at d\ble pace1 & ) r$uc$ /r5g?1 disreg>d+ mo/ ( ! usual precautions on _! own acc\nt1 if !y are to give _! injur$ companion a *ance ( timely rescue4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,measure ( ,c\rage4 ,a lead] or a la/ man 9 ! ,alps absolutely mu/ n fall4 ,we may accept ! fact t d>+ lead]s w take risks1 & t accid5ts c happ51 provid$ e lead] is aw>e ( ! di/9ction betwe5 ! risks :i* no man may all[ himself to take = 8 p>ty ev5 ) _! cons5t1 & ! risks :i* he may take = himself alone1 b :i* 8 fri5ds w be ill-advis$ if !y all[ him to incur4 ,we _c b be grateful = ! _s1 ?\gh x is b human to criticize ! action1 ( m5 :o f9d joy 9 a conte/ ) =ces great] ?an !mselves4 ,too (t5 ! pr(itable by-products ( successful c\rage are alone admitt$ z ju/ifications = ! _s 9 :i* adv5ture is und]tak54 ,dea?s above ! cl\ds or "u ! wat] are tak5 z h]oic incid5ts1 excusable 9 ! int]e/s ( human progress4 ,dea?s ^u rock or "u sn[1 inspir$ by ! l & (t5 by an ev5 m dis9t]e/$ _s ( adv5ture1 are condemn$ z folly4 ,m\nta9e]+ mu/ be judg$ by a spiritual1 n a utilit>ian1 /&>d4 ,c\rage1 moral & physical1 t has its s\rce 9 vigor\s vitality & its goal 9 ! ext5sion ( human fre$om1 f9ds on ! hills its h>die/ s*ool4 ,x is a v :olesome emulation t leads m51 z _! skill & p[] increase1 to measure !m aga9/ ev]-increas+ natural difficulties4 ,our competition ) ! m\nta9s injures no o!r human competitor by our success4 ,our conque/ ( !m ends only 9 ! conque/ ( ourselves4 ,dur+ ^! la/ ye>s by none has ! sacrifice be5 made m will+ly ?an by our y\ng] climb]s4 ,_! c\rage 0 t ( ! races f :i* !y sprang3 to m\nta9e]+ !y ow$ its discov]y & its tra9+4 ,we may n reproa* x to ! hills if ! self-reliance !y tea* leads1 "h or !re1 "s high he>t into dang]1 be=e _! h>d] lesson1 ( exp]i5ce1 has be5 le>n$4 ,& hav+ said ?is1 ,i mu/ repeat t a lead] 9 ! ,alps or big ranges1 be=e he takes a *ance1 mu/ make c]ta9 t ! risk w be conf9$ to himself1 suppos+ su* c]ta9ty c ev] be atta9$4 ,:5 he has made z c]ta9 ( ?is z he c--he mu/ n fall6 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,second ,man's ,action4 ,b /ill1 miscalculation is possible & accid5ts may occur4 ,a hold may h brok51 & an end man1 lead+ or la/1 has fall54 ,9 ! case ( a fall1 ! second man's duty is to ! p>ty1 & only 9 s f> z ! great] includes ! less1 to ! lead]4 ,! lead] has endang]$ ! safety ( ! :ole rope1 :i* lay 9 8 h&s1 by risk+ a fall2 ! duty devolves ^u ! second man to c\nt]act ! fur!r consequ5ces & to take up ! lead]'s duty to ! collective security ( ! rope4 ,no lead] :o des]ves ! position w h fall5 on any b difficult rock1 :]e ! p>ty are mov+ s+ly & :]e !y are prop]ly secur$4 ,8 second man w !re=e h him ei!r well belay$1 or be 9 a position calculat$ to meet ! *ance ( 8 fall4 ,on /eep upw>d or d[nw>d climb+ he w r>ely be able to pull 9 mu* ( ! rope z x ru%es pa/4 ,if he is alone on ! /ance1 he _c take ! *ance1 z a man (t5 c on a trav]se :]e he is well back$ up1 ( do+ any?+ t w risk ! f9al j]k cat*+ him unprep>$4 ,if he1 too1 falls1 x is seldom t o!rs ( ! p>ty c arre/ ! tw(old fall4 ,8 corrective action is practically conf9$ to do+ all he c to spr+ ! rope1 ) arm1 h& or body1 s z to less5 ! *ance ( its snapp+4 ,x is "o ( ! m s]i\s attractions ( climb+ two alone1 t ! two m5 c divide all responsibility equally1 & take _! *ances happily toge!r1 )\t "o ( !m ev] be+ plac$ 9 ! pa9ful position ( *oos+ betwe5 two duties4 ,9 a p>ty ( two ! second's duty is only to 8 lead]4 ,he %>es 9 ! decision to try or n to try4 ,if ! attempt fails1 & ! lead] falls1 he holds him or he falls ) him4 ,he c give himself :olehe>t$ly to 8 fir/ natural impulse1 :i* is to associate himself entirely ) ! man 9 dang]4 ,if x is ! be/ *ance = bo?1 he w hold ! belay1 & let ! rope take its *ance4 ,b he is free to take a great] risk = himself by attempt+ to ru% 9 ! rope or by haz>d+ m ( 8 direct int]v5tion betwe5 ! lead] & ! belay1 if he ?9ks t by s do+ he c less5 ! ev5 great] dang] to 8 lead] ( ! rope break+4 ,! decision1 l all a second man's decisions ab\t 8 duties1 is difficult1 & mu/ be made l lightn+2 b 9 a p>ty ( two x is at lea/ n complicat$ by any hurri$ alt]ation 9 ! ord] ( 8 duties1 su* z foll[s ^u ! fall ( a lead] 9 a l>g] p>ty4 ,8 fir/ duty1 9 t case1 is to ! re/ ( ! p>ty2 ! duty to ! lead] desc5d+1 ) him1 into second place4 ,sid5ote3 ,aft] a ,fall4 ,if a lead] has once fall51 ev5 if he is n physically injur$1 he mu/ be treat$1 = ! "t at lea/1 z no long] 9 control4 ,! second1 9 consultation ) ! re/ ( ! p>ty1 mu/ decide :e!r advance is /ill possible4 ,no man's judgm5t1 n]ve or temp] c be entirely unaffect$ by a fall1 & ev5 if ! n]ves appe> un%ak5 at ! mom5t1 a reaction foll[s lat]4 ,our object mu/ be to po/pone ?is inevitable n]v\s reaction1 bo? = ! man & = ! p>ty4 ,if ! lead] is un9jur$1 action is ! be/ re/orative2 & ,i believe ! wis] c\rse (t5 is to enc\rage him to resume ! lead1 & s =ce himself to conc5trate all 8 faculties ^u 8 imm$iate task1 & on t alone4 ,x requires "s confid5ce to d ?is2 b if we "k our lead]1 & h be5 ju/ifi$ 9 all[+ him to try ! passage at all1 x is be/ = him & be/ = u to let him feel t our confid5ce is n dim9i%$1 & t he has /ill a fir/ duty1 to br+ 8 p>ty ?r\gh ! difficulty4 ,! reaction w ?us be po/pon$1 at lea/ z long z ! necessity = s]i\s action cont9ues1 & may be put (f altoge!r4 ,if ! lead] is really n]v\sly %ak51 he w "k x at once himself4 ,he mu/ !n be re/$1 & ! second takes ov] ! lead4 ,b ! pres]vation ( ! morale & good spirits ( ! p>ty1 includ+ ! lead]1 mu/ be ! fir/ consid]ation4 ,!re %\ld be no h9t ( criticism1 ev5 ( words or tone1 9 any re>rangem5t :i* is decid$ ^u4 ,! affair %\ld be treat$ at ! "t lightly1 z an incid5t4 ,if ! lead] has blund]$ ?r\gh inexp]i5ce or a real defect ( judgm5t1 or if ! second has gr\nds to ?9k t he is (f 8 day or has be5 tak+ unju/ifiable risks )\t consultation1 reasons :i* w\ld make x unwise to tru/ him = ! re/ ( a sev]e climb1 x %\ld be quietly assum$ t he does n wi% to cont9ue lead+4 ,any moraliz+ or impli$ repro( w only h9d] ! recov]y ( equanimity 9 ! case ( an old h&2 & 9 ! case ( a less exp]i5c$ man1 or ( "o lead+ on 8 trial1 criticism is bett] left = "s m leisurely occasion4 ,"o co9cid5t effect ev5 ( a slight accid5t may p]haps be m5tion$4 ,a numb] ( /rong m51 climb]s among !m1 turn fa9t at ! sight ( blood1 especially1 seem+ly1 9 times ( n]v\s /ra94 ,!y are (t5 unaw>e ( ! t5d5cy until ! occasion arises4 ,ev5 if !y =esee1 !y _c ov]come ! attack2 b !y c give w>n+4 ,x has twice happ5$ to me to see m\nta9e]s ( physique & n]ve fa9t 9 _! /eps1 once on ice1 once on sn[1 :5 a guide _h cut 8 h& 9 front4 ,on ! "o occasion we _h two m9utes' w>n+1 on ! o!r none4 ,sid5ote3 ,accid5ts4 ,if a climb] is injur$ by 8 fall1 m sev]ely ?an w all[ ( 8 climb+ unaid$1 surgical m9i/rations are ! fir/ necessity2 ) ^! ,i am n deal+ "h4 ,! subsequ5t action mu/ dep5d on ! place & p4 ,if x is possible = ! p>ty to convey him at lea/ z f> z "s %elt]$ place :]e help c easily rea* him1 ?is %\ld be done at any risk4 ,! *ief dang] is collapse foll[+ on ! %ock1 & 8 p]iod ( cold & exposure mu/ be %ort5$ ev5 at ! haz>d ( increas+ ! local injuries by mov+ him4 ,on rock1 if ! p>ty consi/s ( f\r m51 & "o is /rong1 ! injur$ man %\ld be slung on to 8 back by sl+s fix$ r\nd 8 %\ld]s & ?ighs1 & ! re/ ( ! p>ty mu/ assi/ ! load$ man ) rope & h&4 ,on easy rock m5 c act z ! be>]'s crut*es1 to take "p ( ! weight4 ,on /eep rock :]e c>ry+ is practically impossible1 especially if !re are only two or ?ree to br+ him d[n1 he c be l[]$ ov] difficult places1 susp5d$ 9 ! triple-b[l9e *air or ti$ firmly & rigidly to ! rope1 accord+ z ! injuries p]mit4 ,if possible1 two m5 %\ld l[]1 us+ ropes f diff]5t angles above1 & "o %\ld guide f bel[4 ,if he is unconsci\s1 8 head %\ld be support$ by an extra sl+ to ! rope1 ) a coat z a cu%ion r\nd :i* ! extra sl+ is pass$4 ,a brok5 leg %\ld be b\nd ) putties betwe5 ice-axes1 or to "o ice-axe & !n to ! o!r leg4 ,a brok5 arm %\ld be /rapp$ ) a puttie across ! body4 ,on /eep sn[ or ice1 :]e c>ry+ is impracticable1 x is be/ = "o man to conv]t himself into a sl$ge1 to lie on ! sn[1 take ! injur$ man 9 8 arms1 & let himself be l[]$ on ! rope1 9 /eady /ages1 d[n ! slope4 ,z soon z ! l[] slopes are rea*$1 "o man %\ld g (f = assi/ance 7two1 if possible1 :5 glaci]s are 9 "q72 & mean:ile a /ret*] c be made ( cross-l9k$ rope1 or ( b\ghs or axes comb9$ ) rope4 ,x is well to rememb] t c>ry+ a /ret*] ov] r\gh gr\nd is exhau/+ "w1 & n to sp>e m5 9 ! rescue p>ty4 ,) a heavy man rapid %ifts are necess>y1 & twelve m5 h be5 f\nd b>ely suffici5t to br+ d[n a heavy man ) a brok5 leg1 9 ! d>k1 ov] "s h\rs ( brok5 gr\nd4 ,if ! gr\nd is too /eep = a /ret*]1 & too brok5 = l[]+ on a slide1 x is be/ to use a blanket or a web ( rope2 ^u ?is ! man c be l[]$ sideways1 /age by /age1 ! m5 on ! "u side hold+ up _! edge s z to keep ! lie level4 ,if ! gr\nd all[s ( ! /ret*] be+ c>ri$ freely1 b is /ill incl9$1 "o or1 bett]1 two m5 %\ld act z a brake beh9d1 pull+ back on a rope atta*$ to ! /ret*]4 ,dur+ ! desc5t1 "o man famili> ) ! gr\nd %\ld be s5t ahead to select ! easie/ l9e4 ,a c>riage or c> %\ld be br\ght to ! ne>e/ po9t ( ! road or track4 ,! surgeon %\ld h be5 already s5t = by any available c> or horse4 ,if x is impracticable to get ! man d[n until ! rescue p>ty arrives1 by reason ( ! difficulty ( ! climb+ or ! weakness ( ! p>ty1 "o man at lea/ mu/ /ay ) him1 & ! o!r1 or m happily two o!rs1 mu/ make all spe$ consi/5t ) caution to get assi/ance4 ,an injur$ man mu/ nev] be left alone4 ,if ! desc5t is sev]e1 ! two mo/ capable %\ld desc5d2 & !y mu/ rememb] t ev5 m dep5ds ^u _! gett+ d[n safely ?an ^u _! gett+ d[n quickly1 & resi/ ! insidi\s recklessness & #8x-c't-be-worse' _s t affect ! n]ves ( all m5 at su* times4 ,a code ( signals1 ( %\ts & lights1 %\ld be arrang$1 if n already kn[n4 ,?is is mo/ important1 & (t5 =gott54 ,x is wond]fully *e]+ to he> ! human voice4 ,no?+ s]ves bett] to su/a9 ! spirits & keep (f dang]\s le?>gy or collapse ?an ! %\ts :i* let ! wait+ m5 "k t _! fri5ds are safely d[n1 & help assur$1 or :i* he>t5 !m on ! return long be=e ! rescue p>ty c rea* !m4 ,) ! same object1 if ! rescue p>ty _c />t at once1 lights %\ld be fla%$ at night f "s po9t 9 ! valley visible to ! wait+ m54 ,a s+le mat* is visible = miles4 ,! simple/ code ( call = help is six %\ts or fla%es 9 ! m9ute1 foll[$ by an int]val ( a m9ute's sil5ce4 ,! reply1 signify+ ! call is he>d & und]/ood1 is ?ree %\ts or fla%es 9 ! m9ute1 ) a m9ute's pause4 ,b m5 d well to arrange1 & write d[n1 a full] code ( communication be=e !y divide on su* occasions4 ,rescue p>ties1 ( guides or local p1 are (t5 sl[ 9 gett+ "u way4 ,if !y f9d !y _c get a suffici5tly /rong p>ty toge!r at once1 ! fri5ds or1 if possible1 "s good sub/itutes1 %\ld =m an express advance p>ty1 tak+ ! few fir/ necess>ies & mak+ ! be/ pace !y c4 ,( ev5 m effect ?an _! physical re/oratives w be ! moral reassurance !y br+ t ! real rescue p>ty is "u way4 ,wait+ & unc]ta9ty mat]ially l[] ! n]v\s resi/ance to injury or exposure4 ,! m5 mo/ conc]n$ %\ld n leave ! dispat* & direction ( ! ma9 rescue p>ty to ! pr(essionals or ! local p alone1 :o w always claim x z _! bus9ess &1 m f ignorance ?an lack ( sympa?y1 (t5 treat x z a function to be l+]$ ov] & discuss$ 9 all its details4 ,n infrequ5tly 9 ! ,alps ! fir/ m5 to volunte] w be ! idle & unemploy$1 & !re=e ! lea/ compet5t4 ,! (fici\s local man1 :o may be only conc]n$ to see 8 "n 9 pr9t & get cr$it & %ill+s1 is p>ticul>ly to be gu>d$ aga9/4 ,unless "s fir/-rate m5 c be at once secur$1 or ano!r amateur be f\nd to take *>ge1 "o ( ! orig9al p>ty mu/ /ay beh9d to take comm& himself1 & s5d 8 fri5d1 ) ! be/ auxili>ies available1 to conduct ! fir/ p>ty ( reassurance4 ,x seems advisable to m5tion ^! details1 z ! natural incl9ation ( m5 :o h be5 %ak5 by an accid5t & by anxiety is to yield to well-meant pressure & leave ! #8spe$+ up' ( ! (t5 dilatory rescue column to ! local hotel-keep] or ! fir/ discov]able guide2 only conc]n$ !mselves1 if !y are fit1 to ha/5 back ) reassurance to _! wait+ fri5ds4 ,b1 ( ! two1 ! fir/ is ! m urg5t duty4 ,9 ! ev5t ( dea? & n injury swift action is ( less importance4 ,! m\nta9e]'s difficult task is !n to get ! re/ ( 8 crippl$ p>ty d[n safely4 ,peasants ( all l&s1 accu/om$ to ! accid5ts ( life & dea?1 are ins5sitive to any?+ b _! famili> realism4 ,_! help may be c\nt$ ^u1 b !y _c be expect$ to %[ a v und]/&+ sympa?y4 ,no lat] op]ation %\ld !re=e be left to _! *>ge )\t ! sup]vision ( "o ( ! p>ty1 or ( a fri5d4 ,! ,press may be expect$ to become = ! "t an extra burd52 its curiosity is bett] elud$ by c>efully word$ anticipation ?an left to its own s5sational inv5tiv5ess4 ,viol5t dea? is savage 9 its reactions2 & mann]s & ta/e1 :i* survive only z a ?9 glaze ^u our semi-civiliz$ communities1 evaporate at its fir/ rum\r4 ,al?\gh ,i h ?\ght x "r n to exclude entirely "s sugge/ion z to deal+ ) cases ( s]i\s or fatal accid5t1 =ty-eight out ( fifty m\nta9e]s may1 & d1 f9i% _! c>e] )\t ev] be+ actively conc]n$ 9 "o4 ,,m\nta9 ,,p]v]sity ,besides ! accid5ts :i* are produc$ by ! classes ( ?+s :i* at times g away f u1 su* z holds1 balance1 or our common s5se1 !re are o!r less evitable mi%aps produc$ by ! classes ( ?+s :i* at times come at u--/one falls1 sn[ slides1 or /orms4 ,m\nta9e]s are too sophi/icat$ any long] to accept a naive /atem5t1 t our mi%ap has be5 due to "o ( ^! causes1 z a complete exon]ation4 ,sid5ote3 ,fall+ ,/ones4 ,/ones1 inde$1 =m ! mo/ conv9c+ excuse4 ,good m\nta9e]s may use all _! discretion to avoid l9es :]e /ones fall1 b ! casual /one1 or ! /one loos5$ by human ag5cy1 may yet ov]take !m4 ,a man hit by a /one fall+ f a height1 ev5 if he laughs x (f1 has ne>ly always receiv$ a great] %ock ?an he realizes4 ,8 n]ves w be vibrat+ = a "t l /r+s1 & we mu/ be on ! look out1 especially if we are 9 expos$ places1 until we are c]ta9 t he is normal aga94 ,i h kn[n a man gr[ fa9t t5 m9utes aft] a /one _h /ruck him & left no app>5t m>k2 & ,i h se5 a guide slip half daz$ f 8 /eps a full m9ute aft] he _h be5 hit by a sp9n+ /one n ! size ( a button1 :i* did n ev5 cut ?r\gh 8 hat4 ,b ev5 ! p]il ( irresponsible /one falls c be cag$ )9 n>r[] limits z our exp]i5ce & our =esight increase4 ,x is itself a small dep>tm5t ( our sci5ce ( reconnoitr+ to le>n h[ to calculate _! probability & recognize _! signs4 ,c\loirs & gullies are obvi\s funnels ^u :i* w&]+ /ones conc5trate4 ,9 a sn[ or ice-back$ c\loir we mu/ /udy ! diff]5ce betwe5 ! om9\s furr[s made by /ones or ^? made by wat]4 ,9 a rock gully we h to look out n only = /ones t may use x z a *annel1 b = all t its wea!r+ walls may contribute on _! own acc\nt1 or t ! *anges ( temp]ature1 or ev5 ! di/urbance ( our own passage1 may dislodge f ! balanc$ accumulations4 ,! sure/ signs are ! abs5ce or pres5ce ( /ones on ! glaci] bel[ a c\loir1 or ! grey sc>s or bruises made by ! cannonad+ /ones on ! rocks !mselves4 ,b ^! may only indicate /one fall at c]ta9 h\rs ( ! day4 ,big grooves 9 /eep precipices & holl[s betwe5 ribs1 :]e /ones may congregate1 or featureless flat faces1 :]e !y may w&] unconf9$ at _! own wild w1 are alike suspici\s1 & ! bases ( _! cliffs mu/ be inspect$4 ,rock faces1 corrugat$ ) v %all[ ribs & holl[s1 are p>ticul>ly dang]\s1 z fall+ /ones may rico*et unacc\ntably across ! ribs1--/ones h>d] to =esee & to dodge ?an direct falls4 ,! edges ( glaci]s comm&$ by /eep precipices are c]ta9 to be /one-%ell$4 ,precipices comm&$ by glaci]s--t is1 by ! small glaci]s hang+ high up on great peaks1 :i* are (t5 difficult to locate f bel[--h also _! fix$ h\rs2 z soon z ! ice feels ! sun x beg9s to dis*>ge its surface /ones1 & cont9ues until ! ev5+4 ,b )\t our own exam9ation we ne$ n condemn any face on g5]al gr\nds or f he>say4 ,a numb] ( f9e m\nta9 walls 9 ! ,alps h be5 unju/ly condemn$ 9 _! entirety = m]ely local weaknesses4 ,o!rs (f] sali5t ribs or l9es %elt]$ by accid5ts ( /ructure ?r\gh ! he>t ( suspect$ zones4 ,only inspection c say4 ,we may presume /eep faces to be m safe ?an ^? ( easi] incl9ation1 because ! rock %\ld be s\nd]1 & because *ance /ones ought to fall outside u if !y d fall4 ,if we h be5 un=tunate 9 our reconnoitr+1 or if we h delib]ately tempt$ =tune too f> ^u a suspect$ r\te1 we may on occasion h to put our pride & our progress 9 our pocket & be cont5t to sit out "u a grateful rock scre5 until ev5+ or %ad[ has *ill$ ! vehem5ce ( ! /one b>rage4 ,x is bett] to risk a night out ?an p]si/ 9 tackl+ a bad l9e at a bad "t4 ,an ov]hang+ rock is a sure refuge4 ,b we are also advis$1 if ev] we see t sunlight is increas+ ! ho/ile fire ^u "s passage t we h to negotiate1 to wait until a cl\d has froz5 up ! ammunition s\rces4 ,z ,i h nev] yet light$ ^u a /agnant p>ty :ile !y 7 sp5d+ "s portion ( a climb+ day 9 a p5sive exam9ation ( ! sky = ?is purpose1 ,i mu/ conclude ei!r t cl\ds are z p]v]se z /one falls 9 ! ill-tim+ ( _! arrival1 or t m5 are z p]v]se z bo? 9 _! pighead$ prosecution ( a fair-wea!r programme4 ,besides _! cu/om>y r\tes1 :i* we avoid by exp]i5ce or z ! result ( exam9ation1 !re are occasions bo? ( place & "t :5 /ones fall unacc\ntably4 ,/ones ( l>ge mass w fall at night2 ! melt$ sn[ freezes into ! cracks1 lev]s ! /ones f _! atta*m5t1 & _! weight does ! re/4 ,/ones1 ( small] size b 9 l>g] pr(usion1 w fall 9 ! morn+1 z ! sun aga9 melts ! ice 9 ! cracks1 :i* has already deta*$ ^! light] /ones b kept !m = ! night froz5 9 position4 ,dur+ ^! morn+ h\rs1 !re=e1 /ones mu/ be look$ = on rock faces :]e !y ne$ n be expect$ dur+ ! re/ ( ! day4 ,dur+ all ! h\rs ( hot sunlight1 slopes ( mix$ rock & sn[1 ev5 ( easy angle & h>mless aspect1 may become op]ative4 ,rock extrud+ f ice is g5]ally m dis9tegrat$1 & mu* ( its fre%ly expos$ surface1 tempor>ily cem5t$ by fro/1 is liable to dis*>ge 9 sun%9e4 ,any slope ( asc5t :i* dra9s a wide /one-%$ ( su* mix$ "* mu/ be approa*$ ) caution4 ,aga9 9 hot seasons1 aft] sn[less w9t]s1 :ole regions ( rock1 gradually dis9tegrat$ "u _! normal cov]+ ( ice or sn[1 become expos$2 & 9 su* seasons /ones mu/ be look$ = on ! mo/ respectable peaks4 ,impeccable cliffs1 ( traditional m\nta9e]+ approa*1 w be c9ctur$ at _! base1 & n only !re1 by b&s ( dis*>g+ rock1 remote f & disreg>d+ ! "t-hon\r$ wa/e-%oots4 ,bad wea!r1 ra91 & especially w9d1 w />t volleys 9 unacc\ntable places at ! mo/ inconv5i5t times4 ,aft] /orm or heavy ra91 ev5 secure l[] pa?s may be rak$ by a dropp+ fusillade4 ,b su* pass+ exub]ances h also _! com=table aspect4 ,! bruises t surprise u by _! appe>ance on %e] h>d crag1 :]e no /one _h any bus9ess to fall1 or ! intimidat+ fragm5ts on ! glaci] bel[ our firm & promis+ rib1 may be m]ely su* a s+le pa/ morn+'s eff]vesc5ce or ! excesses ( a solit>y ?und]/orm4 ,o!r surprise /ones may be due to ! pass+ ( goats or *amois above--a r>e case 9 ! ,we/]n ,alps--or m frequ5tly to ! pres5ce ( o!r p>ties4 ,^! are a v def9ite & con/ant dang]1 especially on loose faces l ! ,matt]horn asc5t f ,z]matt1 :]e half a c5tury ( clumsy climb+ seems only to h augm5t$ ! supply ( m\nta9 ammunition available = daily use4 ,x c only be avoid$ by keep+ (f ^! r\tes1 or by mak+ sure ( />t+ fir/4 ,if we succe$ 9 s do+1 we mu/ rememb] our m\nta9 mann]s4 ,on any r\te :]e /ones are likely to fall1 no p>ty1 h[ev] exp]t1 has ! "r to increase ! risk = o!rs bel[ by rac+ ahead4 ,unless our l9e takes u well out ( range1 we mu/ wait1 9 asc5d+ or desc5d+1 be=e cross+ any passages :]e !re is a prospect ( our dislodg+ loose /ones1 until ! p>ty bel[ is tempor>ily %elt]$ or ne> en\gh to suff] small damage f ! ev5t4 ,we may expect ! same consid]ation f our =]unn]s1 or make ourselves clamor\sly audible until we secure x4 ,/ones loos5$ by ! p>ty ^u itself1 by r\gh grip climb+1 by sitt+ :ile desc5d+1 by a rope c>elessly manag$1 & s on1 are matt]s = ! correction ( climb+ te*nique1 & _c be rat$1 ei!r m5tally or vocally & emphatically1 z risks f ext]nal causes4 ,b !re is /ill always ! famili> t]ror ( ! s+le /eal?y /one1 t %oots out = a solit>y v5ture on ! bl&e/ ( mix$ rock & ice climbs1 slid+ s\ndlessly or skipp+ v5om\sly on a %>p edge4 ,x c only be c\nt]$ by ! w>n+ ( an al]t lead] & by prompt dodg+4 ,! ?r[+ ( /ones f ! tops ( peaks or cliffs is happily conf9$1 ap>t f a few classical record$ cases1 to t\ri/s 9 our own isl&s4 ,x is n done by m\nta9e]s2 & ! me?od ( impress+ its s]i\s dang]s ^u ! (f5d]s may be left to ! emotional coeffici5t ( ! p>ty imp]ill$ to elaborate4 ,if1 9 spite ( all precautions1 a fall+ /one1 or a fall ( /ones1 ?reat5s u1 our position at ! mom5t decides our action4 ,9 ! case ( a rock avalan*e1 ^: m9atory s\nd is unmi/akable1 we %all he> x be=e we see x2 !re is no?+ to be done b to cr\* & get :at cov] ! rock w af=d1 especially = ! head1 )\t try+ to locate x4 ,if x is a s+le /one1 or a few /ones1 sight & n s\nd w be giv+ u ! w>n+ 7unless ! risk is already pa/71 & x is be/ to wait1 ) back or side turn$ t[>ds ! /one1 & wat* ov] our %\ld]4 ,a /one falls surpris+ly sl[ly to ! eye2 its c\rse c be foll[$1 & dodg$ mo/ effectively at ! la/ second1 if x is n 9 any case aim$ to miss u4 ,9 dodg+ or tak+ cov] f /ones1 ! rope mu/ n be =gott54 ,x is little less s]i\s = ! rope to be caught by a l>ge /one fall+ ?an = "o ( ! p>ty4 ,to run is (t5 m dang]\s1 = o!r reasons1 ?an to /& /ill4 ,mo/ guides are t]rifi$ ( fall+ /ones4 ,!y are ! "o risk ext]nal & unacc\ntable :i* !y _c tra9 !mselves to meet1 because no skill c =esee !m4 ,"s "p ( _! alli$ dread ( bad wea!r is due to ! increas$ risk ( /ones x br+s3 8,a t]rible s\nd ( /ones ca/ d[n1 or a runn+ t c\ld n be se5 ( skipp+ bea/s1 444 or a reb\nd+ e*o f ! holl[ m\nta9s1 ^! ?+s made !m swoon ) fe>40 ,! majority ( guides w %\t & />t skipp+ indiscrim9ately 9 panic4 ,m5 :o d ?is mu/ be br\ght %>ply to _! s5ses4 ,an effective1 if possibly fallaci\s1 argum5t is to po9t out t a /one by fall+ on a p>ticul> l9e has enorm\sly r$uc$ ! *ance t ano!r w fall on ! same l9e aga94 ,?is argum5t does n apply to ! case ( /ones :i* conv]ge f wid] areas above1 to fall ?r\gh a p>ticul> gully or c\loir4 ,a m\nta9e]1 if he f9ds himself 9 su* a conduit1 _h c]ta9ly bett] get out ( x z quickly z may be safely possible4 ,if x is absolutely necess>y to cross a c\loir :]e fall+ /ones may be expect$1 or he>d1 x is be/ = ! p>ty to cross s+ly1 unrop$4 ,b if cross+ unrop$ involves a m imm$iate risk ?an ! *ance ( a /one /rik+1 n m ?an two m5 %\ld rema9 on ! same rope toge!r4 ,"o man %\ld cross ! c\loir alone1 ) pl5ty ( rope loose = a spr+ =w>d or backw>d to safety1 :ile ! o!r an*ors "u %elt]4 ,if !re are ?ree m5 on ! rope1 ! two end m5 %\ld cross fir/1 ea* ) pl5ty ( rope2 ! middle man foll[s la/1 ) ! same all[ance4 ,?is r$uces ! dang] = ! middle man4 ,to be caught by /ones 9 a c\loir on ! middle ( a rope held at bo? ends is to be trapp$4 ,!re is no "t = ! man at ei!r end to release 8 rope1 or1 ev5 7 t possible1 to discov] t[>ds :i* side ! middle man int5ds to escape4 ,on ! :ole1 consid]+ ! am\nt ( /ones t fall 9 ! ,alps1 especially on frequ5t$ peaks1 ! am\nt ( /ones t are dislodg$ by inexp]i5c$ climb]s on "o ano!r on our own cliffs1 & ! am\nt ( rec5t /ones t litt] all m\nta9 bases1 & t mu/ h fall5 "s "t1 x is a/oni%+ h[ few & h[ slight h be5 ! injuries !y h caus$4 ,sid5ote3 ,sn[ ,slides4 ,sn[ slides or avalan*es are re/rict$ 9 summ] to m def9ite dang]-zones ?an are ! errant /ones4 ,b :5 !y come !y are less evitable & m ov]:elm+ 9 action4 ,sn[ falls n only accord+ to ! accid5t ( its position1 :i* is asc]ta9able1 b also accord+ to ! *ance ( its condition2 & ?is is susceptible to influ5ces m num]\s & m volatile ?an ! comp>atively bett] delimit$ & m viol5t =ces t produce ! loos5+ & fall ( /ones4 ,aga91 if we are =c$ to cross dang]-areas ( /ones or sn[1 we h ! bett] *ance 9 ! case ( /ones4 ,ea* fall+ /one only occupies 9 its fall a fraction ( ! area ( dang]1 & may be elud$2 b e in* ( sn[ 9 an area ( avalan*e risk is alike pregnant ) dang]4 ,x is no long] a "q ( artful dodg+ individually1 b ( an escape 9 "t by ! :ole p>ty1 possibly ov] a consid]able ext5t ( slope1 all ( x equally trea*]\s4 ,b sn[ makes ^! concessions to ! skilful lead]3 its pres5ce c be locat$2 its condition c be te/$ 9 advance4 ,exp]i5c$ reconnoitr+ be=eh& may advise u to avoid a sn[ passage altoge!r3 precaution on ! spot1 a ?or\gh te/+ ( its hold+ quality1 gives u a second *ance ( elud+ an unpleas+ surprise4 ,b ^! safegu>ds are precaution>y r ?an corrective1 & belong prop]ly to ! prov9ce ( prev5tion1 t is ( sn[ craft4 ,correction becomes ne$ful :5 we h be5 deceiv$ 9 our craft1 & f9d ourselves by error1 or p]haps by *ance1 on a risky sn[ passage4 ,! sn[ ?reat5s to slide or to avalan*e1 because x is ei!r p[d]y & sup]ficially sli!ry1 or wat]-logg$1 or cru/$ & deta*$ bel[1 or b$d$ deceitfully ^u ice4 ,n[1 to cont9ue to tr\gh horizontally across suspici\s sn[ is equival5t to saw+ ?r\gh a high bran*1 on :i* y are seat$1 betwe5 y\rself & ! trunk4 ,we mu/ turn v]tically up1 or d[n1 or foll[ z /eep a diagonal z we may4 ,we make /eps z f> z possible ap>t1 & we tread exactly & lightly 9 ea* o!r's4 ,if !re is firm] sn[ bel[1 we drive ! axe to ! head at ea* /ep1 & loop ! rope4 ,9 extreme cases we may turn face inw>d1 z ! toe is less di/urb+ ?an ! heel or side-boot4 ,or we may h to cle> away ! sn[ & make /eps 9 ! ice bel[4 ,all z our craft dictates4 ,on positively dang]\s sn[ !re is mu* to be said = unrop+1 %\ld we h to cont9ue long 9 equal insecurity4 ,! rope c be little protection2 conc]t$ action once a slide />ts is impossible1 & if ! slide embraces ! foot+ ( all ! p>ty1 ! individual *ances ( survival are great] )\t x4 ,b :ile admitt+ t !re is a case = unrop+1 ,i h nev] kn[n a p>ty d x4 ,if1 9 spite ( all our discretion1 ! sn[ slide or avalan*e />ts1 any fur!r *ance ( corrective action passes out ( our h&s ) ! loss ( our foot+4 ,a good deal has be5 writt5 ab\t :at we ought to d 9 an avalan*e3 cut ! rope1 adopt a swimm+ attitude1 roll sideways & s on4 ,to anyone :o has ev] ba!d 9 brok5 surf1 or felt ! weight ( ev5 a ?9 film ( sn[ slid+ ab\t 8 ankles or on to 8 %\ld]s1 all su* no/rums w seem ab\t z practical z t delightful recomm5dation t we %\ld all we> a r$ app5dage ( trail+ /r+1 z a signal to ^? :o se>* = u 9 an avalan*e4 ,! vision ( a l9e ( /urdy m\nta9e]s tripp+ intricately across a sn[field l emb>rass$ macaws 9 pursuit ( ea* o!r's sc>let tails may give u "s pleasurable mom5ts4 ,possibly col\r$ air-balloons1 to keep ! /r+-tails float+ ar*ly above our heads1 might add to _! picturesque efficacy4 ,a man 9 an avalan*e c only act by in/9ct2 & he w in/9ctively /ruggle4 ,if he keeps1 or ends1 ^u ! surface1 x w be due to ! %all[ness ( ! slide or ! dep? ( 8 good =tune4 ,x is well to rememb] t a man1 by an accid5t ( compression1 may live = "s "t al?\gh ov]:elm$ & out ( sight "u ! sn[2 ! survivors !re=e mu/ take ! risk ( fur!r sn[ fall+ & attempt ! rescue "w at once4 ,! *ances ( survival w always be great] 9 a slide ( p[d]y sn[ ?an 9 "o ( wet sn[4 ,sid5ote3 ,ice ,fragm5ts4 ,ice falls 9 fa%ions m fa?omable ?an sn[1 ov] m limit$ areas & by m discov]able rules4 ,we may f9d ourselves =c$ to pass bel[ sracs on glaci]s4 ,a srac may fall2 b sracs are v obvi\s z well z beautiful1 & ! really capable eye is at fault if x _c =etell :5 "o is likely to fall1 )9 an h\r or two1 & hurry out ( its track4 ,ev5 if x is too f> above u = inspection1 !re is pl5ty to guide u 9 ! condition ( ! ice ne> u & 9 ! feel ( ! atmosph]e4 ,sracs are usually saf] ?an !y look2 & x is wis]1 if we f9d ourselves unwitt+ly "u fire1 to glide out ( x quietly & compet5tly ?an to ru% into ! real fry+-pan ( a panicky flight4 ,if !re is opportunity1 we get rid ( ! rope2 a man on claws1 )\t ! rope1 has a mu* bett] *ance ( dodg+ ! srac t topples4 ,heavy /ep-cutt+ j bel[ a pois$ column _h bett] be avoid$2 b ,i am half sorry to record t ! hall[$ my? t x is dang]\s to talk or brea! l\dly on su* passages is n borne out by latt]-day sracs4 ,i h %\t$ v l\dly & cle>ly into ! e> ( a numb] ( v promis+ ones--( c\rse f safe positions on _! %\ld]s1 & n1 l ,lau5]1 f _! #8dang]\s' heads--)\t elicit+ ev5 a nod ( response4 ,only "o o!r case sugge/s itself :]e fall+ ice might be class$ z an ext]nal or objective risk2 & t m because ! ext5t ( its dang]-zone is undiscov]able ?an because its position1 or ! probability ( its fall1 is conceal$ f ord9>y =esight4 ,9 a sn[y season1 ) alt]nates ( melt+ sun & freez+ w9d1 ! day comes :5 ! rocks ( a peak or ridge are arm\r$ ) ice plates or ice spe>s4 ,if we trav]se unsuspect+ly bel[ su* walls1 an h\r's sunlight may expose u1 9 ! middle ( our enjoym5t ( our po/pon$ f9e day1 to a rak+ & dang]\s fire4 ,! missiles may come %oot+ ov] ! edge ( any innoc5t1 black jut or buttress f> above u4 ,! only c\rse is to wat*1 & dodge1 & make c>efully = op5 c\ntry4 ,t :at has fall5 once _c fall aga9 9 ! same place is ev5 m true ( ^! ice plates ?an ( /ones4 ,= our mis*ance1 also1 we may h to blame ourselves z mu* z ! m\nta94 ,rocks 9 su* a /ate g5]ally betray "s gleam ( _! ice arm\r to a he$ful exam9ation1 & z ! *ance ( su* a condition occurr+ %\ld h be5 sugge/$ to u by ! k9d ( wea!r t produc$ x1 we ought to h be5 able approximately to locate ! p]il be=eh&1 & avoid its zone4 ,sid5ote3 ,evil ,wea!r4 ,?und]/orms or blizz>ds may produce direct cata/rophe4 ,( a blizz>d we %\ld h _h premonitory signs2 & if we are caught 9 x1 we mu/ j fight ?r\gh x1 & we may n aft]w>ds ju/ly blame ! m\nta9s4 ,x is a fooli% pride :i* ?9ks to %[ h>dihood by p]si/+ wilfully1 among big m\nta9s1 aga9/ ! ?reat or oncom+ ( evil wea!r4 ,b ?und]/orms may take u unaw>es2 & !n our only refuge is retreat4 ,_! *ief m5ace lies along ! edges ( ridges & on out/&+ po9ts4 ,if a /orm ?reat5s1 we mu/ get (f ! ridges & away f p9nacles z quickly z possible1 ev5 if x may mean cutt+ d[n an ice slope4 ,sometimes our fir/ w>n+ may be an electric %ock1 com+ out ( a d>k & w9dless sil5ce or ?r\gh a w>m oppression ( sl[-fall+ & sep>ate sn[-flakes1 & ?rill+ u helplessly f heel to hair4 ,if !re is no o!r sign1 & 9 ! he>t ( ! wor/ /orms !re is no fla% & no ?und]1 ! s++ ( our axes & ! hiss+ crackle ( ! dis*>ge f e po9t ( ! ridge w give w>n+ t x is well to g else:]e4 ,we are g5]ally advis$ to get rid ( our axes4 ,if we are on a big peak1 ?is w mean our seek+ scanty %elt] n v f> bel[ ! ridge :]e ! /orm caught u4 ,p]sonally1 ,i pref] to keep my axe1 & use x to climb well d[n "o ( ! flank+ walls4 ,:ile we rema9 on ! ridge or ne> x1 all po9ts1 includ+ ourselves1 are pot5tial conductors1 & x is awkw>d to get f> d[n )\t an axe4 ,we once came on a :ole grove ( axes ab&on$ on a summit4 ,:5 we saw1 lat]1 ! angle & ! condition ( ! sn[ slopes t ?is p>ty _h be5 driv5 to desc5d )\t _! axes1 to escape f ! /orm1 we realiz$ :at fright5+ ?+s m5 c d if !y are only fright5$ en\gh4 ,?und]/orms ap>t1 ! p]ils ( bad wea!r are indirect1 & give u "t to use precaution>y r ?an corrective skill4 ,a v /rong w9d may ( c\rse bl[ u "r out ( our /eps4 ,i h only se5 ?is actually happ5 once1 to a light-limb$ m\nta9e]1 :o pit*$ v neatly on ! ice /eps t5 feet l[] d[n4 ,ord9>ily we cl+ on z we c1 & evade ! direct bla/ by mov+ on to ! o!r side ( a ridge4 ,w9d w also pelt u ) /ones & icicles 9 unexpect$ places1 or lac]ate our faces ) sn[ p>ticles4 ,b its pr9cipal effect is usually ^u m5's n]ves1 :o get #8rattl$' & lose _! collective rhy?m4 ,cont9u\s l\d noise always int]rupts communications1 & bre$s flurry or confusion4 ,x is wor? :ile tak+ %elt] beh9d rocks1 if only = a m9ute or two at int]vals1 to /eady ! n]ves aga94 ,mi/ & fog c only h>m u if our craft fails4 ,we meet !m by compass & ! s5se ( direction4 ,w9d c make a graci\s exception to its usual (f5siv5ess1 & help u 9 mi/4 ,if we h not$ its direction1 & h obs]v$ t x is a con/ant & n a gu/y or sp9n+ w9d1 we c keep a /raight c\rse by keep+ x always on ! same *eek4 ,aga91 :5 he is approa*+ ! cre/ ( a ridge or a pass1 :at m\nta9e] has n _h cause1 9 mi/1 or ev5 9 sun1 to welcome ! little ru%es or brea?s ( w9d t tell him ! edge is ne> & assure him ( 8 direction8 ,aft] a we>y pl\gh up foggy sn[ t]races or a h>% /ruggle on mi/-wet rocks1 ^! s\ghs seem l ! m\nta91 too1 sigh+ ) our relief1 or l ! end ( our travail surpris+ our m\rnful faces ) a k9dly b d]isive #8pooh6' ,e>?quakes are natural p]v]sities outside ! sph]e ( ord9>y m\nta9e]+ prevision4 ,among m\nta9s _! dang] is indirect or subsequ5t4 ,!y injure a numb] ( good rock r\tes1 & aft] a s]ies ( %ocks we may expect "s griev\s det]ioration 9 ! condition ( rock p9nacles & faces4 ,l>ge masses w h be5 prec>i\sly loos5$1 & our l$ges w be litt]$ ) pois$ blocks & cranky rubble4 ,! peaks affect$ may require m>k$ly cauti\s climb+ = "s seasons1 until "t & wea!r %all h tidi$ d[n ! surfaces aga94 ,"s ye>s ago c]ta9 ( ! ,*amonix ,aiguilles _h to be left unvisit$ = a "t on ?is acc\nt4 ,z to h[ we %\ld meet ! upro> ( ! eruptive mom5ts1 x is difficult to sugge/ an approv$ me?od4 ,a m\nta9e] ( reputation relates h[ an e>?quake caught him on ! precipit\s nor? face ( ! ,d5t du ,gant2 & h[ t pr\d p9nacle rock$ s port5t\sly t 8 feet 7 flung free1 & he only sav$ himself by sw++ p]il\sly1 l a p5dulum1 f 8 h&holds4 ,x is reassur+ to feel t su* exceptional circum/ance does g5]ally select ! exceptional man1 & t x inv>iably f9ds him inspir$ to deal ) its crises imag9atively4 ,= ^u su* natural inspiration x w\ld be difficult to improve by devis+ any m =mal code4 ,,*apt] ,,vii ,,ice ,,& ,,sn[ ,,craft ,sid5ote3 ,! ,age = ,glaci]s4 ,rock is ! framework ( m\nta9s1 & = ^? :o discov] _! en?usiasm or tra9 _! activity among our we/]n hills1 rock craft mu/ always rema9 ! basis ( m\nta9e]+4 ,_m ( u w\ld n be dissatisfi$ if ! *ances ( "t & leisure (f]$ u no wid] field4 ,= our p]=mance1 !re is m ?an a lifetime c\ld hope ev5 to exam9e betwe5 ! precipices ( our m\nt+ upl&s & ! desc5d+ cliffs ( our long sea coa/s2 & = our /hetic pleasure1 nature1 ?r\gh ! m$ium ( a s(t & v>iable atmosph]e1 %r\ds ! settl$ l9es ( our hills ) a delicacy ( int]rupt$ & *ang+ col\r1 & a grave retic5ce ( %ad[1 sun-break & mi/1 t leave no?+ incomplete = ! fulfilm5t ( t s5se ( p[] & wond] ^: realization gives some?+ ( ! quality ( religion to our feel+ = great m\nta9s4 ,^! anci5t hills are at peace ) _! neighb\rs ! fields1 & re/ tranquilly among !m2 cont5t to contribute ) _! wat]s & pa/ure to ! f]tility1 & ) _! mi/s & rocks & seclusion to ! holiday pleasure ( ! l& :i* 9 y\? !y 7 wont to cumb] ) ! fragm5ts ( ea* fi]y insurg5ce1 or bury "u ! :ite burd5 ( _! glacial defeats4 ,9 o!r l&s1 to modify ! h>%ness & to ord] ! exub]ance ( y\ng] ranges1 ^: ambition w\ld yet *all5ge ! />s1 nature has /ill to avail itself ( ! /]n] & m primitive discipl9e ( ice & p]petual sn[4 ,) ?is veil1 con/ant b always r5ew+1 x subdues ! b>r5ness & ! aggressive angul>ity prop] to _! p]iod ( immaturity & *ange1 & pres]ves = !m ! alo(ness t is at once ! protection & ! *>m ( free-gr[+ *ildhood4 ,x is a mi/ake to ?9k ( ! ,alps or ! ,himalaya z v5]able because _! heads are :ite3 !irs are all ! irrepressible impulse1 ! unev5 hum\r1 ! unconsci\s cruelty & ! ov]fl[+ vitality ( fr[>d b jolly *ildr54 ,a m\nta9e] may be satisfi$ to nurse 8 a?letic infancy ^u home rocks1 & he may be happy to pass ! lat] ye>s ( 8 exp]i5ce among ! m elusive impressions & m subtle romance ( our old & quiet hills4 ,b 9 ! /orm ye>s ( 8 /r5g? he %\ld te/ 8 p[]s1 le>n 8 craft & e>n 8 triumphs 9 conflict ) ! abrupt y\? & w>like habit ( great glacial ranges4 ,sn[ & ice are p]man5t ^u ! high hills1 & consequ5tly ice & sn[ craft are ess5tial dep>tm5ts ( great] m\nta9e]+4 ,to treat !m z decorative adjuncts1 cultivat$ by a c]ta9 set ( r old-fa%ion$ folk1 or to say1 z ,i h he>d m ?an "o promis+ climb] say 9 effect1 8,rock is good en\gh = me3 sn[ & ice only mess x up2 ,i %an't bo!r ) t sort ( ,alp60 & !n ru% (f to ! ,dolomites z a relief f ! ,fells1 is equival5t to refus+ to ex*ange ! foil play ( practice = ! rapi] play ( real conte/ ) ! be/ *ampions ( ! m\nta9 realm3 x means ! repudiation ( ! bett] half ( m\nta9 k1 & ! r5unciation ( almo/ all its rew>ds4 ,! high] craft ( m\nta9e]+ beg9s above ! l9e ( p]petual sn[4 ,a rock climb] :o leaves 8 rocks at t level c nev] discov] ev5 all t rocks may (f] ( difficulty & v>iety4 ,! ref9em5ts ( climb+ develop out ( ! modifications t rock & ice & sn[ produce 9 "o ano!r4 ,x is among ! ela/ic ext5sions1 ! frequ5t exceptions1 :i* _! comb9ation imposes ^u our gramm> rules = rock or sn[1 t ! m\nta9e] is evolv$ out ( ! climb]4 ,illu/ration3 ,,rock ,,& ,,ice ,,sydney ,,sp5c] ,our /rong ye>s are ! ye>s 9 :i* to le>n ! complete craft ( great] m\nta9e]+4 ,& x is also 9 ^! ye>s1 :ile ! s5ses are ke5 & ! imag9ation undimm$1 t ! entries & illu/rations mo/ wor?y ( assembl+ 9 our book ( memory c be collect$ f among ! d>+ sights & haz>d\s incid5ts ( high m\nta9e]+ z f no o!r region ( adv5ture4 ,nev] to h brok5 too soon ) sleep1 & issu$ up on to ! grey coldness ( night-froz5 glaci]s2 nev] to h felt r ?an se5 ! lonel9ess ( fro/$ grey peaks1 oppress$ ) a sanctity ( reluctant seclusion2 nev] to h endur$ ! en*antm5t ( solit>y space1 an intimate b ho/ile fasc9ation t is f\nd else:]e only 9 ! des]t & among arctic sil5ces2 nev] to h almo/ he>d ! /range expectancy t fills great sn[ fields be=e dawn ) que/ions nev] utt]$ & nev] answ]$1 & ^: insi/5ce is only veil$ "u a liveli] & m visible remot5ess at ! inquisitive approa* ( light2 nev] to h wat*$ ! night wid5 & ! edges ( ! _w draw clos] r\nd1 z ! peaks beg9 to d>k5 & ! glaci]s to pale1 & ! vague %ad[s ( my/]y & ( elusive pres5ce %r9k & h>d5 into =m & l9e & col\r ) ! ne>+ ( sunrise2 &1 at ! mom5t :5 ! fir/ rose ray quick5s ! fir/ high summit & day p\rs 9 ab\t u1 nev] to h kn[n ! lassitude ( odd illusion vani% & ! summons to good sunlit action ?rill e fibre1 f toe to f+]-tip1 ) a ru% ( human ma/]y 9 ea* /\t bl[ ( ! axe & ea* fre% %ock ( ! driv+ heel2--nev] to h kn[n some?+ ( only ?is "o h\r ( an alp9e morn+ w\ld h be5 to h miss$ ! mo/ vivid mom5ts ( liv+1 & to h depriv$ our work+ & our ev5+ h\rs ( _! mo/ fai?ful comrade memories4 ,,ice ,,craft ,= sn[ & ice z = rock we /udy prim>ily balance1--balance 9 motion1 & above jo9ts flex$ z well z /raight4 ,! elem5t>y movem5ts & practice are id5tical4 ,rock is ! sub/ructure ( m\nta9s1 & ice & sn[ are its accretions4 ,simil>ly1 rock climb+ is ! gr\ndwork ( m\nta9e]+ te*nique2 & = ice & sn[ we employ ! same pr9ciples1 avail+ ourselves ( ! me*anism ( axe & claw & ski s z to r5d] !m equally applicable to new conditions ( surface & texture4 ,= balance climb+1 footwork is all-ess5tial4 ,on rock1 only :]e angle or uns\nd texture makes footwork alone insuffici5t1 d we help out ) ! h&s4 ,on ice or sn[1 only :]e angle or a texture too s(t or too h>d d5ies our feet _! assurance1 d we supplem5t !m ) ice-axe & ice-claw1 or to a c]ta9 ext5t ) ski4 ,:ile a man rema9s a grip climb]1 he w nev] make an iceman2 & he _h bett] g back & le>n fir/ h[ to climb 9 balance on rocks1 r ?an set himself ! tw(old task ( le>n+ balance & axe or claw te*nique simultane\sly & pa9fully on ice4 ,mo/ ( ! e>ly m\nta9e]s le>n$ :at footwork !y knew ^u ice fir/1 & x 0 !re=e v natural t !y %\ld 9 _! m\nta9e]+ precepts give ! l>g] %>e ( space & att5tion to elem5t>y movem5ts & ex]cises 9 /epp+ on ice & sn[4 ,^! movem5ts are n[ le>n$ m easily & p]fectly on rock1 s\nd & uns\nd1 & transf]r$1 :5 we g to ! ,alps1 to sn[ & ice1 foll[+ a m logical & c]ta9ly m safe ord] ( /udy4 ,9 rec5t ye>s ,i h tak5 "s ( ! v be/ ( ! new g5]ation ( #8cont9u\s' rock climb]s = _! fir/ climbs 9 ! ,alps1 & h f\nd t _! balanc$ footwork took only a few h\rs to adapt itself to sn[ or ice surfaces1 skipp+ all ! elem5t>y /ages hall[$ by tradition4 ,consequ5tly !y c\ld />t ^u ! m recondite bran*es ( ice & sn[ craft ) a rapid assurance t left ! guides frankly int]e/$4 ,l>gely because x 0 ! only type ( m\nta9e]+ t !y really /udi$ z a craft1 & consequ5tly c\ld fully enjoy :5 !y ma/]$ x1 ice & sn[ craft came to be consid]$ by _m ( our pr$ecessors z ! only true m\nta9e]+1 to ! sup]session ( all o!r bran*es4 ,aft] ! possibilities ( rock surface began to be appreciat$1 & :ile rock climb+ 0 work+ ?r\gh its successive & isolat$ /ages1 ! sw+ ( ! p5dulum w5t all too f> ! o!r way4 ,ice & sn[ came to be reg>d$ by all except ! old alp9e s*ool z intrusions ^u asc5ts1 to be got ov] z be/ "o c\ld4 ,_! /udy 0 proportionately neglect$ by guides & amateurs alike1 :o *ose ! ribs & rock faces = _! r\tes1 & 7 apt to be bo!r$ if !y _h to come (f !m4 ,! lack ( any advanc$ te*nique became pa9fully app>5t :5 m\nta9e]+ ambition progress$ to ! po9t ( attempt+ great new alp9e ridges & faces1 :]e a k ( ice & sn[ craft is indisp5sable4 ,_m a failure & ev5 accid5t reveal$ :at a l>ge lacuna our rock climb]s _h be5 n\ri%+ 9 _! alp9e und]/&+s4 ,dur+ ! developm5t ( balance climb+1 ^: basis is footwork ^u any angle & any k9d ( surface1 ! scale has be5 /eadily readju/+ itself4 ,simultane\sly )1 or possibly z a result (1 ! unification ( our sev]al climb+ me?ods ^u rock1 ice & sn[ into a s+le te*nique ( balance1 has come ! new int]e/ 9 foot-atta*m5ts1 ! popul>iz+ ( ! use ( ice-claws & ( ski4 ,:ile balance 9 climb+ movem5t 0 /ill only rudim5t>y1 x 0 m com=table to climb on a mat]ial l sn[ or ice1 :]e ! human c\ld make holds & /eps ( ! %ape & at ! angle t be/ suit$ 8 /&+ or 8 #8walk+' balance4 ,he pref]r$ ?is to mak+ a s]ies ( awkw>d bodily adju/m5ts 9 ord] to fit himself on to exi/+ accid5ts 9 ! surface ( rock4 ,b z climb]s le>n$ to ma/] balance dur+ any movem5t & 9 e attitude1 & to dep5d less & less ^u ! h&1 !y became naturally alive to ! advantage ( adopt+ footge> :i* secur$ saf] & m cont9u\s progress by adapt+ ! feet to ! surface1 & sav$ !m ! "t & rhy?m lo/ 9 /opp+ to alt] ! surface to suit _! feet4 ,h5ce ! increase 9 our use ( s(t soles & sci5tific nail+1 on rock1 & ! p]fect+ ( ice-claws1 :i* all[ our feet to walk on ice at :atev] angle we f9d x1 & ( ski1 :i* make a royal progress ( ! mo/ voraci\s sn[4 ,a man :o is a good cont9u\s balance climb] %\ld be able1 z ,i h said1 to transf] 8 footwork easily & quickly to sn[ & ice1 & to move safely ^u mod]ate m\nta9s1 satisfactorily manag+ ! rope & cutt+ ! occasional /eps t su* asc5ts dem&4 ,"h _m climb]s /op le>n+1 ev5 among ^? :o write books2 & j ab\t "h ! real delights ( iceman%ip & sn[ craft beg9 fa9tly to sugge/ !mselves4 ,f ?is po9t on our rock te*nique _c help u1 & may1 if p]si/$ 91 m]ely emb>rass & delay u4 ,ice & sn[1 conjo9$ or ap>t1 ) all _! significations ( col\r1 texture & angle1 & 9 _! local or ephem]al c\nt]-*anges1 =m a /udy by !mselves4 ,z x is c]ta9 t we _c d mu* r\te inv5t+ or advanc$ climb+ ^u rock )\t kn[+ some?+ ( ! diff]5t sorts ( rock & _! mean+s1 s is x f> m c]ta9 t 9 really big m\nta9e]+ no "o w get f> or g secure ^: k ( ice & sn[ is limit$ to ! m]e physical ability to climb ^u !m4 ,x is impossible to d m ?an sugge/ a few l9es :i* tra9+ might foll[1 9 ord] to atta9 to a po9t ( exp]i5ce :]e ! specializ$ /udy c be begun4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,nature ( ,ice4 ,to />t )1 x is z well to "k some?+1 suffici5t = ! work+ purposes ( practical summ] m\nta9e]+1 z to ! diff]5t sorts ( ice :i* we meet ) 9 ! m\nta9s4 ,!re are ?ree pr9cipal v>ieties3 ,fir/ly1 #8gra9y ice1' or #8blue ice' z x is usually call$ f its col\r4 ,?is is =m$ *iefly f sn[1 by regelation4 ,ne>ly all glaci] ice is ( ?is "*2 :5ce we also "k x z #8glaci] ice4' ,x is glaci] ice ) :i* we h by f> ! mo/ to d 9 ! ,alps1 & its successive /ages h to become famili> to u z names1 & recognizable f _! appe>ance1 if we ev] wi% to lead a p>ty4 ,9 ! fir/ /age pressure makes ! fall5 gra9s ( sn[ coh]e1 & an opaque :ite mass is ?us =m$1 a f9e-gra9$ solid1 conta9+ a lot ( imprison$ air4 ,?is /age is usually b incorrectly nam$ #8froz5 sn[4' ,"u ! fur!r action ( pressure ^! gra9s coalesce1 by regelation1 & l>g] gra9s are =m$2 "p ( ! entangl$ air escapes1 ! solid becomes co>se-gra9$ & less opaque & assumes a blui% t+e4 ,?is is call$ nv 7or firn74 ,"u ! cont9uation ( ! process ultimately all ! imprison$ air escapes1 ! solid becomes transp>5t & v co>se-gra9$1 & its l>g] masses h a di/9ctive1 blue col\r4 ,?is is call$ #8ice4' ,z ! process is a cont9u\s "o1 x is impossible to draw a h>d-&-fa/ l9e betwe5 ! diff]5t /ages1 or always to be sure ( say+ ) c]ta9ty t our feet are on ! "o or ! o!r4 ,secondly1 !re is #8black ice'2 ice m or less cont9u\s & g5]ally 9 lay]s1 =m$ by ! freez+ ( wat]4 ,?is is comp>atively r>ely enc\nt]$ 9 ! ,alps1 or 9 m\nta9s1 b m (t5 9 w9t] ?an 9 summ]4 ,:]e x intrudes1 x is v exact+1 z x calls = a diff]5t type ( claw te*nique & a diff]5t sort ( bl[ ) ! axe4 ,?irdly1 !re is an int]m$iate1 & int]m$iately attractive & frequ5t1 class ( ice1 produc$ by ! infiltration ( wat] ) sn[1 & by _! subsequ5t freez+4 ,?is is call$ #8sn[ ice4' ,9 r\te design+ & 9 climb+ we h to be able to recognize ^! types & /ages4 ,ea* has its own "r me?od ( treatm5t4 ,b gra9y or glaci] ice is ! *>act]i/ic alp9e ice1 & mo/ ( ! sugge/ions made z to ice te*nique apply to ice ( ?is description1 :]e x is n o!rwise expressly /at$4 ,a l>ge1 dry glaci] introduces u to almo/ e normal type ( ice1 f h>d blue to firn1 & is ! be/ practice gr\nd = f9d+ our ice feet & transf]r+ our rock balance to ice angles4 ,a week's good practice devot$ exclusively to ice craft on a glaci]1 "u a good m5tor1 w set our feet on ! way ( bett] iceman%ip ?an if we tru/ = our tra9+ to ! h\rs ( sporadic ice "w1 g5]ally ( "s difficulty1 :i* we may meet ye> aft] ye>1 & muddle ?r\gh1 on our big climbs4 ,few m5 are sy/ematic en\gh to devote all _! fir/ alp9e en?usiasm to a re/rict$ tra9+ ( ?is k9d2 b any man :o hopes at "s date to become a m\nta9e] %\ld beg9 e>ly to give 8 ice "s int5sive /udy4 ,ev5 a m\nta9e] ( exp]i5ce has to all[ = p]sonal v>iations :5 he returns ea* season4 ,h[ev] well attun$ he may keep 8 s5se ( t\* on rock by practice 9 ,brita91 he takes "s days to recov] ! feel ( 8 feet on ice1 & 8 ice n]ve2 v mu* z a skat] or a ski] has to d ea* w9t]4 ,"s ( u make a habit1 9 !ory at lea/1 ( giv+ ! fir/ day ( a t\r to "w ( all sorts on a dry glaci]2 ! second day to "s %ort climb1 comb9+ bo? rock & sn[ "w2 ! ?ird1 probably an (f-day1 to go+ up to a hut1 & ! f\r? to a big climb1 :i* mu/ embrace z mu* v>i$ ice z possible4 ,b ?is is = resumptive practice 9 te*nique4 ,x is n suffici5t = a comm5c+ season1 or = a gr\nd+ 9 common ice law4 ,sid5ote3 ,ice-,claws4 ,any man :o wi%es to make big asc5ts is well advis$ if he beg9s e>ly to le>n h[ to use ice-claws 7or crampons74 ,x is n t we _c climb )\t !m1 ev5 z we c\ld )\t nails 9 our boots1 b t we c le>n to climb m securely1 & g fa/] & f>!r1 ) !m4 ,claws h be5 us$ by individuals = some?+ l a c5tury1 b ! cons]vatism ( m\nta9e]s long refus$ to recognize !m z m ?an an individual ecc5tricity4 ,x f\nd itself able to draw a nice di/9ction betwe5 ! #8sport+' "* ( ! assi/ance giv5 by a numb] ( long spikes sep>ately & labori\sly screw$ & unscrew$ on ! boot1 & t ( a simil> numb] ( spikes affix$ by a s+le simple me*anism4 ,x 0 n until ! guides f9ally capitulat$ t ! practice c\ld gr[ at all g5]al or t its extra security c\ld become recogniz$ z workmanlike4 ,claws 7 =m]ly assum$ to be useless unless worn by e memb] ( a p>ty2 an assumption t prev5t$ _! use by _m amateurs :o fail$ to c>ry _! guides' conviction ) !m4 ,z a fact1 ev5 "o exp]t furni%$ ) claws c d mu* to assi/ ! security & light5 ! lab\r = 8 clawless p>ty on difficult ice1 by prec$+ !m & help+ or protect+ !m ) ! rope4 ,let no amateur1 !re=e1 ev] be disc\rag$ f tak+ 8 own :]e he expects ice "w4 ,he w always be ! happi] himself1 & may on occasions be able to po9t a prolong$ moral to 8 p>ty4 ,up to ! pres5t !y h /ill be5 look$ ^u z an exp]im5t1 & m5 h be5 apt to get disc\rag$ if !y h tak5 !m out once or twice & _h no ne$ = !m4 ,sometimes !y h !n dropp$ c>ry+ !m2 f\nd t !y c\ld #8get on all "r )\t !m'--z :o _c8--& s begun to exagg]ate ! lab\r ( _! portage & m9imize _! use4 ,! habit has to be =m$4 ,x c become z natural to take !m on a big asc5t z to c>ry ! axe1 sp>e rope & %oes ^u a rock climb4 ,i mu/ premise1 t claws po/ulate precise footwork4 ,a slov5ly habit !y _c correct1 & may only confirm4 ,if we use claws neatly1 we ne$ no long] cut /eps ^u all ! easi] angles ( ice or h>d sn[4 ,we c walk /raight ahead1 up1 d[n or along1 )\t *eck = /ep-cutt+ or loss ( rhy?m4 ,we c take foo?old j z is mo/ conv5i5t = our balance z we move4 ,?us a good balance climb] f ! fir/ mom5t gets all ! advantage ( ! footwork he has le>n$ ^u rock3 ! lab\r ( #8f9d+ 8 feet' ^u ice is r$uc$ to a m9imum4 ,aga91 claws increase our security1 if we /ep accurately1 :5 we are mov+ ^u angles :]e1 = reasons ( /eepness or o!r difficulty1 /eps may /ill h to be cut4 ,9 us+ slipp]y /eps !y p]mit ( a confid5ce ( movem5t1 firm & cont9u\s1 simil> to t :i* previ\s exp]i5ce w h taught u contribut$ mo/ to our security ^u rock4 ,9 s f> claws1 ev5 :ile we are le>n+1 make = saf] progress4 ,_! fa%ion has be5 fully dealt )1 "u ,equipm5t4 ,z to ! "* ( claw :i* may be ( greate/ s]vice1 !re exi/ div]g5t s*ools ( ?\ght2 & ea* f9ds ju/ification = its belief 9 ! great] usefulness ( its p>ticul> claw = "s p>ticul> type ( ice "w4 ,9 g5]al1 heavy claws are bett] = a heavy man1 light = a light4 ,t5-po9t claws are bett] ?an eight = a l>ge foot1 & six-po9t claws are h>dly wor? _! weight 9 c>ry+4 ,a heavy claw1 ) long1 %>p po9ts1 :i* suff] 9 contact ) rock1 is wor? its extra weight if "s big ice exp$ition is 9 prospect4 ,at ! same "t1 a good climb] c1 if he is prep>$ = ! extra lab\r & = ! m c>eful te*nique :i* _! use requires1 accompli% ) safety all ! ice "w to be f\nd on normal climbs ) a light] claw ( slightly %ort] po9ts4 ,?is light]1 r\gh] type w be m useful to him = mix$ ice & rock climb+1 z he w be able to sacrifice its %ort] & inevitably m blunt$ po9ts ) less regret1 :ile he c reta9 ! claw ov] e k9d ( surface4 ,! necessity ( con/antly putt+ (f & on ! long1 %>p claws on mix$ climb+1 to avoid turn+ _! po9ts1 has ! drawback ( los+ "t1 &1 /ill m important1 ( *ang+ ! action ( ! leg & ! feel ( ! feet4 ,consequ5tly ! rhy?m ( foot & leg has to adju/ itself1 aft] ea* *ange1 to ! new "* ( surface & movem5t4 ,:]eas ! claw :i* c be worn all day if ! conditions dem& x1 reg>dless ( rock or blunt+ surface1 & :i* c be ?r[n away or re%>p5$ :5 x has suff]$ suffici5tly1 :ile x may call = m skill & ef=t = its secure use on long1 /eep passages ( h>d ice1 possesses ! comp5sat+ advantage ( keep+ ! action con/ant1 )\t *ange to ! feel ( ! feet1 to ! rhy?m1 or to ! great] or less] security ( ! tread4 ,on ! o!r h&1 ! f9]1 heavi] claw1 by :i* ,i mean ! claw ( ! ,eck5/e9 patt]n1 has ! m]it ( be+ ! only claw at ! pres5t "t 9 :i* bo? ! metal is rightly wr\ght & ! po9ts are %ap$ & plac$ "u ! foot ) any sci5tific reg>d = _! use4 ,x is also ! only type :i* x is safe to we> on h>d #8black ice'2 :i*1 ev5 if r>ely1 is occasionally f\nd on big summits 9 ! ,alps or on sunless nor!rn faces4 ,( c\rse ! claw mu/ be made exactly to fit ! boot on :i* x is us$1 & x mu/ fa/5 & take (f easily & securely4 ,! !ory ( ! use ( ! claw1 ) all ! v>i\s positions ( ! feet requir$1 c only be dealt ) 9 a monograph to itself1 & ?is has be5 already m ?an adequately done4#ac ,x is suffici5t = ! comm5c+ m\nta9e] to "k t he has to le>n h[ to use claws1 & t he _c d s effectively )\t prelim9>y practice4 ,?is practice %\ld be on a glaci]1 & "u direction2 no man really discov]s :at ! claw w enable him to d until he has se5 :at confid5ce & skill c accompli% 9 ! conque/ ( angle & ( natural n]ve revulsions4 ,! movem5ts are n entirely natural or self-sugge/+1 m especially ^? ( desc5d+ or ( trav]s+ on v /eep slopes4 ,! ma/]s ( ! art c walk1 & su/a9 weights1 sideways or /raight ^u _! feet1 up to angles ( #gj degrees or m4 ,an ord9>y climb] c le>n to move ) com=t on angles1 ( good surface1 betwe5 #ee & #fj degrees4 ,:5 we are on claws1 ! sn[-%uffle & ! normal =w>d sw+ ( ! walk+ foot1 heel & toe1 h to be =gott54 ,! foot is lift$ r high]1 & is plant$ cleanly on ! ice1 )\t ! usual =w>d scrape4 ,! high1 cle> lift ( ! foot mu/ become me*anical1 o!rwise ! po9ts w cat* on boot or puttie1 & a na/y trip or fall may result4 ,! d[nw>d pressure or ?ru/ ( ! foot v>ies 9 =ce accord+ to ! angle & ! h>dness ( ! surface4 ,to prev5t ! po9ts work+ loose 9 ! holes !y make1 ! foot has to be plac$ at once 9 ! position & at ! angle 9 :i* x w h to su/a9 ! weight ( ! body pass+ across x4 ,a balance climb] :o has ma/]$ ! t5se1 danc+ action ( ! foot z x is set ^u a rock hold w h to le>n little new1 except ! habit ( ! high] lift & ! m v]tical plant4 ,9 asc5d+1 our object is to keep ! feet po9t+ =w>d & /raight z long z ! angle w all[ u to2 only turn+ ! toes outw>d :5 we c no long] get ! heels d[n4 ,on mo/ ice x is suffici5t if we get hold ) two po9ts ( ! claw alone2 & on a fair surface we c walk /raight-foot up v /eep angles1 tru/+ only to ! two po9ts on ! toe4 ,up s(t] /eep surfaces1 or lit]ally precipit\s angles1 we adopt a crab or sideways walk4 ,we desc5d /eep angles ) ! knees b5t & ! toes =c$ d[n4 ,! ankles h to1 & soon d1 acquire an increas$ suppl5ess & /r5g?1 9 claw practice4 ,p]haps ! mo/ difficult task = ! beg9n] is to le>n ! art ( walk+ & balanc+ ^u flex$ ankles1 :ile trav]s+ across /eep faces4 ,to /rike all ! po9ts 9 neatly & /rongly sideways1 & ) a flex$ ankle1 s t ! flat ( ! sole may meet ! surface cleanly & )\t a scrape1 takes "s practice2 b slab climb]s1 :o h suppl$ _! ankles by foot-cl++ ^u /eep rock angles1 w f9d !mselves a day or two's frog-m>*+ to ! good on ice4 ,practice alone w br+ u confid5ce 9 ! new adju/m5ts1 or all[ u to feel z securely 9 balance above a foot incl9$ at a high angle1 ov] a b5t ankle or a curv$ leg1 z ^u a "r-angl$ hold ( rock or ice4 ,once confid5ce has come1 ! s5se ( security 9 ! atta*m5t ( ! claw to ! ice enables a fre$om ( movem5t a/oni%+ at fir/ to anyone accu/om$ only to ! feel ( ! ord9>y boot-nails on ice /eps4 ,?is additional & confid5t security1 :i* ! claw gives to our foo?old1 almo/ elim9ates ! *ances ( :at are wrongly t]m$ #8accid5ts' on ice2 ! break+ foo?old1 ! faultily plac$ foot1 or ! slide ( ! sole on a bad surface z ! transf]5ce ( ! weight produces a *ange 9 ! direction ( ! leg-?ru/4 ,we c balance1 !re=e1 on /eep angles f> m boldly1 & keep our h&s free = bett] purpose4 ,a /rong p>ty on claws1 9 a c\loir ( uni=m surface or on a s\nd ridge ( mix$ ice & rock climb+1 is (t5 free to d )\t ! rope at all1 if x s pleases4 ,! rope is to gu>d aga9/ ! results ( #8accid5ts' to individual memb]s2 & compet5t icem51 if !y are releas$ f ! di/raction ( ! rope1 & able to conc5trate on _! own good progress & safety1 h all ! less temptation to commit #8accid5ts4' ,once we h ma/]$ ! movem5ts & become confid5t1 we beg9 to di/+ui% betwe5 v>ieties ( ice1 & to v>y our claw craft accord+ly4 ,= in/ance1 9 alp9e #8gra9y' ice !re are ?ree ord9>y v>ieties3 h>d1 s(t & rott54 #8,rott5' ice does n lie 9 ! ,alps to m ?an ! dep? ( an in* or two1 ?\gh x is f\nd ( a great] ?ickness 9 o!r cont95ts2 :5 we f9d x 9 ! ,alps1 we cle> x away ) ! axe1 to leave a firm tread = ! claw on ! good ice bel[4 ,h>d & s(t gra9y ice h _! sev]al adju/m5ts1 ^: diff]5ces h to be le>n$ by practice4 ,h>d ice w usually be f\nd ly+ at high angles1 s /eep t we %all sometimes be unable to get m ?an ! hold ( a s+le claw po9t4 ,exp]i5ce alone c make u feel z safe ^u ! "o talon z we h le>n$ to feel ^u a s+le boot-nail on s\nd rock4 ,= "w ( ?is advanc$ "*1 = :i* ! heavy1 long-prong$ claw is bett] suit$1 ! be/ practice c be f\nd ^u ! big fall-ice ( dry glaci]s4 ,we soon discov]1 9 su* practice1 t balance is easi] :5 we are confid5t to move fa/1 a resuscitat$ platitude2 & t1 :ile mov+1 we are satisfi$ ) a s+le po9t :]e ! :ole t5 w\ld n h seem$ sup]flu\s1 _h we halt$ to admire ! panorama4 ,b holds1 on ice z on rock1 are n int5d$ to be held 9 p]petuity4 ,! claw is n only useful ^u /eep ice3 on h>d repell5t sn[ x sp>es u ! p5ance ( /amp+ or scrap+ /eps4 ,x is equally reassur+ to foo?old & n]ve on ice-lacqu]$ rocks1 or on brok5 rock surfaces coat$ ) w9d-sn[ or glaze4 ,9 a bad season--t is1 a season dur+ :i* sn[ has be5 frequ5tly fall+1 & ! rocks are surplic$ 9 v>i\s bl5ds & qualities ( sn[1 froz5 & refroz5--! claws are (t5 reta9$ = ! :ole day1 & become z natural to ! feel ( ! feet z ! m usual boot-nail4 ,x is sometimes ev5 difficult to rememb] if !y are on or (f1 until !y are remov$1 :5 ! feet become z helpless z !y d :5 skates are fir/ deta*$4 ,9 a sn[/orm1 = a desc5t1 !y %\ld always be put on2 & ev5 9 cle> wea!r & on good foot+ x is an imm5se reassurance to ! lead] ( a tir$ p>ty asc5d+ or desc5d+ a c\loir or slope ( suspici\s or #8mix$' surface1 if he c c\nt ^u ! extra security t claws w give to ! det]iorat+ footwork ( 8 p>ty4 ,aga91 on ^? e>ly1 fa/+1 glaci] crawls by lamplight1 ) :i* mo/ ( u are famili>1 :5 we are expect$ to balance1 ) cold jo9ts & (t5 )\t ! protection ( ! rope1 along crevasses & walls :i* may be easy en\gh by daylight b seem puls+ ) dang] & dread 9 ! d>kness1 claws come z a great safegu>d2 _! tactile value is a reassurance to eyes & to feet /ill lead5 ) insuffici5t sleep & sup]abundant cold4 ,! ev5+ desc5t ( a glaci]1 dry or p>tly sn[-cov]$1 ) its crevasse jump+1 we>isome = tir$ legs1 & its balance trav]s+ on ice too slipp]y = jad$ feet or day-poli%$ boot-nails1 becomes aga9 a delight if x c be tak5 directly & at a ru%1 ) ! new surety ( foo?old & ! *ange ( muscle movem5t t foll[ ! putt+ on ( our claws4 ,/raight & "t-sav+ l9es ?r\gh glaci] falls c !n be v5tur$1 ev5 ) m5 dragg+ heavy sacks or heavy legs1 if !y h once ! new feel ( danc+ security "u _! feet4 ,x is wor? :ile putt+ claws on ev5 = ! %ort b (f5sive desc5t ( ! sn\t ( a glaci]4 ,!y crackle crisply d[n its pebble-pimpl$ wr9kles & make light glid+ ( its glassy declivities4 ,a belat$ p>ty return+ crossly at night d[n ! break]s ( a big glaci] ^: surface has ?aw$ only to be refroz5 lat] to a poli%$1 leg-rack+ ice-slide1 w save temp] & re-rop+ & "t if ! m5 /op to put on _! claws4 ,two midnight desc5ts ( ! ,m] de ,glace 9 ?is condition1 )\t claws1 are among ! mo/ p5etrat+ & undignifi$ ( my remembrances4 ,on ! /eep sides ( mora9es1 or on new sn[ ly+ on grass1 claws1 if !y happ5 to h be5 br\ght1 save mu* back-slid+4 ,on slipp]y rock surfaces1 su* z sn[-slim$ slate & ! l1 ,i h f\nd light claws ( con/ant use4 ,f9ally1 we ne$ n take (f our claws1 if !y are light ones1 = e rock section ( a climb :]e rock & ice are alt]nat+4 ,on mu* easy s(t rock !y are ( assi/ance2 & ev5 9 /eep climb+1 if once ! novelty ( ! feel is ma/]$ & ! foot has got accu/om$ to ! precaution>y tread t protects ! po9ts1 claws h (t5 a positive value great] ?an ! m]e ef=t we save by n remov+ !m4 ,to le>n h[ to use claws1 h[ev]1 does n relieve u ( ! necessity ( le>n+ h[ to make & to walk 9 ice /eps4 ,nor 7al?\gh ?is is a matt] ( m p]sonal op9ion7 d claws 9 my view ju/ify climb]s on big exp$itions 9 sub/itut+ ! small ice-axe recomm5d$ by "s ( ! great au?orities ^u claws1 & only int5d$ = mak+ an occasional /ep or = hold+ on1 = a good /ep-cutt+ axe1 :i* has also ! pot5tiality ( ! ?ird leg on g5]al climb+4 ,9 practice on dry glaci]s x is bo? pr(itable & amus+ to exp]im5t 9 manuvr+ on exceptional angles1 or 9 walk+ up betwe5 ! v]tical walls ( crevasses4 ,su* practice is good = confid5ce & = tra9+1 & x is ev5 ( use to discov] h[ comp>atively easy claws make x to get out ( crevasses1 or simil> impasses1 )\t rely+ on ! rescue ( ! rope alone4 ,a climb] on claws1 = ?is reason1 c take a measure ( lib]ty 9 solit>y climb+ t w\ld be folly = a man )\t !m to all[ himself4 ,no d\bt1 if amateurs 7 able to keep con/antly 9 practice1 & _h n ea* season to /op climb+ :5 !y h b>ely rea*$ _! be/1 !y w\ld le>n to move ) equal fre$om on angles ( ?is "* at great heights4 ,b z a matt] ( exp]i5ce no holiday m\nta9e] c entirely acquire ! same feel+ ( confid5ce & security if 8 ice slopes are subt5d$ by dang]\s m\nta9 walls or are situat$ on expos$ tracts4 ,fatigue1 div]se air-pressures &1 above all1 ! psy*ological effect ( height contribute to h&icap him 9 v5tur+ on claws risks :i* he w\ld laugh at on a tw5ty-foot wall on a glaci]4 ,consequ5tly we f9d t mo/ m\nta9e]s on v /eep1 h>d ice at great heights pref] to cut /eps to aid _! claws4 ,9 m\nta9e]+ on a big scale we usually beg9 to feel ?is ne$ :5 ! angle ( ! ice approa*es any:]e ne> to our limit ( av]age p]=mance ^u claws 9 glaci] practice4 ,x is m our s5sation ?an ! angle ( ! ice slope :i* =ces /ep-cutt+ ^u u4 ,& !re is yet ano!r common occasion = /eps4 ,on ice :i* is cov]$ ) sn[1 :]e )\t claws we %\ld cle> away ! sn[ & make a /ep 9 ! ice1 x is ( c\rse simil>ly op5 to u to cle> x away & /ep simply ) ! claw on ! expos$ ice4 ,b1 z a matt] ( fact1 x is g5]ally ! practice 9 su* case to make a nick = ! claw4 ,unless ! nick is made1 ! mass ( sn[ r\nd ! cle>+ prev5ts ! foot f be+ plac$ conv5i5tly & f provid+ a s5se ( security comm5surate ) ! s5sational situation4 ,?us to secure a good reassur+ claw hold we %\ld h to cle> away an additional quantity ( sn[1 & we may j z well make a nick-/ep at once4 ,a /ep 9 ice :5 claws are worn ne$ only be a nick = a proportion ( ! prongs4 ,x takes less lab\r & art to fa%ion ?an a /ep = a boot4 ,aga91 ice at great heights is occasionally cov]$ ) a rott+ coat+1 or cru/1 ?r\gh :i* ! prongs _c rea* to ! good surface bel[4 ,"h cle>+ ! rott5 ice w 9 any case be necess>y1 &1 = ! reason giv5 above1 x is m com=table & z quick to cut ?r\gh x & make a /ep at once4 ,:]e1 also1 ice is really h>d #8black ice1' x has an iron quality ( surface1 ?r\gh :i* ! prongs h to be driv5 ) real =ce2 & !y make clean1 h>d holes f :i* we h ! feel+ !y might slip out1 z if f smoo? metal sockets4 ,)\t /eps1 at /eep angles1 balance on su* ice is a v delicate matt]1 z ?is is a bran* ( claw te*nique 9 :i* ! ,alps give u little practice4 ,! n]ve ( mo/ m5 w call = auxili>y /eps4 ,b :e!r /eps are made or n1 on su* ice ! rope mu/ always be reta9$4 ,= ! av]age man1 !re=e1 x is /ill ne$ful to "k h[ to fa%ion & h[ to walk 9 ice /eps2 bo? = use on ! brief int]vals ( ice & sn[ on climbs :]e ! am\nt ( difficult rock & ! small proportion ( ice 9 prospect h sugge/$ leav+ ! claws beh9d1 & = occasions1 ( :i* "s h be5 m5tion$1 t arise out ( exceptional m\nta9 or p]sonal conditions4 ,sid5ote3 ,cutt+ ,/eps4 ,we h !n to le>n h[ to cut & use /eps on ice1 at high angles1 9 awkw>d places1 or :5 complicat$ by c]ta9 conditions4 ,claws cov] ! re/ ( ! ice field4 ,a man :o sets himself to le>n h[ to cut /eps well mu/ beg9 by practis+ on ice4 ,!ory c only help him to avoid c]ta9 false positions4 ,a ^w f a m5tor on ! spot w save a*+ %\ld]s & bli/]$ h&s1 & be ( f> m use ?an _m books4 ,book-lore has r h9d]$ ?an help$ u by "s ( ! !ory x has set d[n4 ,x is natural t amateurs :o _h ! example ( golf+ & o!r #8arm-movem5t' sports on free angles be=e !m %\ld h be5 attract$ by ! idea ( a /ep-cutt+ #8sw+4' ,?is has be5 !re=e recomm5d$ z a sav+ ( /r5g? & an ideal 9 /yle4 ,possibly _m climb]s besides myself h =maliz$ _! /yle & ret>d$ _! acquisition ( ease & security by practis+ ! acrobatic feats ( balance :i* an attempt to sw+ f ! hips 9 /ep cutt+ necessitates4 ,on ice slopes ( an easy angle1 :]e we ne$ no long] cut /eps at all if we use claws1 ! sw+ may be graceful4 ,b on /eep ice ! sw+ f ! hips is irreconcilable ) a secure balance4 ,! mo/ we c atta9 to is an int]rupt$ sw+ or #8foll[-?r\gh' ) ! %\ld]s alone1 to ease our pure armwork4 ,x is n unlikely t ! appe>ance ( body movem5t :i* ?is %\ld] sw+ gives to ! :ole coat ( a ma/] iceman1 z se5 f beh9d1 misl$ e>ly /ud5ts ( ! art1 :o 7 foll[+ 9 ice /eps1 into ! belief t !y 7 wat*+ _! ideal sw+ f ! hips4 ,b su* a sw+ on /eep ice is impossible4 ,! /ep-cutt] is balanc+ 9 _m cases on "o foot1 suppos+ him to be cutt+ /eps at wide #8m\nta9e]+' int]vals1 or on ! d[ngrade2 at be/ he is on two feet set 9 ! same /raight l9e4 ,he _c1 !re=e1 risk any sw++ movem5t :i* w\ld di/urb 8 balance above 8 s+le base l9e or po9t4 ,let anyone try ! hip sw+ /&+ ?us on a s+le foot1 or on feet al9$ at a wide int]val on ! gr\nd1 ev5 )\t ! complication ( ! n>r[ ice /ep or ! ob/ruction ( ! side wall4 ,he w beg9 to d\bt ! advisability ( our classic sw+4 ,nor may a /ep-cutt] let 8 sw+ travel inw>d ) ! axe on to ! slope2 because x is ! ess5ce ( good /ep-cutt+ t ! axe %all /op ) a j]k1 releas+ itself f ! #8/ick' ( ! po9t 9 ! ice :ile x j>s loose ! section ( ice t x has split4 ,! hip sw+1 !re=e1 if we attempt x1 mu/ be *eck$ at bo? its ends2 & v little space rema9s betwe5 ! two *ecks to get ! sw+ go+4 ,! /eep] ! ice ! %ort] ! axe-/rokes1 & ! less & less ! opportunity ( introduc+ ! sw+4 ,z a fur!r difficulty1 no "o b a craftsman tra9$ 9 ! work%ops c\ld sw+ ! :ole body s exactly z to /rike ) 8 po9t )9 a fraction ( an in* ( ! spot requir$4 ,9 *opp+ wood1 :i* is done ) ! feet spread1 an amateur c a*ieve ?is2 b if he is balanc+ on feet al9$1 x is beyond ! skill ( mo/ exp]ts to sw+ f ! hips1 /rike absolutely true1 & at ! same "t rema9 9 secure balance4 ,ev5 ! %ort] %\ld] sw+1 :i* we use on slopes ( easi] angle1 :]e we c get "s support = our balance1 :5 /&+ on ! outside foot1 by press+ ! inside foot or ! inside knee aga9/ ! ice wall1 becomes impracticable :5 we are /&+1 z we mu/ be = half our cutt+ "t1 on ! inside foot1 ) ! outside foot 9 a l9e beh9d u or sw++ free to our poise4 ,on /eep] slopes1 :]e we h no m>g9 ( balance = any outw>d sw+ & no room to get a support = ! inside foot aga9/ ! ice1 ! %\ld] sw+ becomes impracticable ev5 :5 we are cutt+ (f ! outside foot4 ,on su* slopes we are only free to use ! %ort play ( ! arms1 & cutt+ becomes simply accurate #8*opp+4' ,n only on ^! /eep angles ( ice1 b on all awkw>d passages :]e we are n plac$ com=tably = free cutt+1 b :]e we h to aim our /eps at cramp$ angles ) b5t arms or ) "o h& alone1 our cutt+ c be no m ?an *opp+ f ! elb[1 or sometimes only f ! wri/4 ,s9ce1 = m5 :o we> claws1 ^! are ! only passages on :i* mu* /ep cutt+ %\ld be really ne$$1 ! body & %\ld] sw+s may be safely dropp$ out ( ! category ( desirable ideals4 ,! *>act]i/ics ( a good cutt] are accuracy ( aim 9 mak+ ! /roke1 ) ! "r incl9ation ( ! pick & ! "r j]k ( ! po9t2 good balance ^u bo? feet or on "o foot2 & an easy b re/ra9$ arm movem5t1 s t he c cont9ue ! /rokes ) smoo? precision = an indef9ite "t4 ,a man :o has acquir$ ^! w naturally use any eas+ ( ! slope 9 8 fav\r1 or any facilities x may (f] him = bett] foot balance1 to light5 8 armwork by means ( a foll[-?r\gh ) 8 %\ld]4 ,b if a m\nta9e] beg9s to le>n ) ! idea t he has to #8sw+' 9 ord] to cut well1 he w exp5d mo/ ( 8 en]gy ^u easy angles :]e claws make x unnecess>y to cut /eps at all1 or 9 recov]+ 8 balance & mak+ v bad /eps ^u /eep] slopes--= ! %ort spells t 8 /r5g? & n]ves w /&4 ,a good /ep-cutt] ne$ n #8sw+1' b he also may n #8press4' ,x is me*anically obvi\s t if a man is n sw++1 b has 8 /roke "u muscul> control ?r\gh\t its duration1 he w ga9 no?+1 & m]ely fight aga9/ himself1 if he tries to =ce ! /roke or #8press' be=e he arre/s 8 po9t ) ! f9al j]k4 ,once ! /roke is />t$1 a good cutt] lets ! axe fall ( its own weight2 t is1 he foll[s ! /roke ?r\gh ) only j ! am\nt ( control ne$$ to direct ! po9t until its contact ) ! ice4 ,ea* man mu/ discov] 8 own fa%ion ( sket*+ out a /ep4 ,! sequ5ce & arrangem5t ( 8 /rokes w v>y ) ! quality ( ! ice & ) 8 position = cutt+4 ,e /ep %\ld slope slightly inw>d4 ,! angle ( ! tread is ( m importance ?an ! size ( ! /ep4 ,on /eep ice ! inside or back wall j above ! /ep %\ld be cle>$ away1 to all[ ! %9 room & to let ! leg /& upright above ! foot4 ,! outside edge ( ! /ep %\ld nev] be cle>$ entirely or flatt5$4 ,! ice du/ or fragm5ts1 if n too l>ge1 %\ld be left !re1 to pack "u ! foot & give x a fur!r prop inw>ds4 ,a good /ep looks l a r\gh not* be=e x has be5 us$2 b aft] ! fir/ foot has pass$ ov]1 x %\ld h tak5 ! %ape & size ( ! sole1 & look l its m\ld4 ,l>ge /eps or #8buckets1' su* z ! guides provide z ! beg9n]'s joy1 are useless to m5 :o we> claws1 & m dang]\s ?an small /eps = ^? :o d n4 ,a l>ge /ep has a l>ge unev51 or a l>ge smoo? floor1 ^u :i* ! sole is apt to slip ab\t z ! weight is transf]r$4 ,its sugge/ion ( moral reassurance is a poor comp5sation = a spoil$ balance4 ,a /ep %\ld be small1 j fitt+ ! foot & gripp+ ! side ( ! boot2 ! back wall %\ld j prop ! ankle = bett] balance4 ,x %\ld be com=table to leave z well z com=table to /ep on to4 ,an exp]i5c$ /ep-cutt] w always pref] to make small /eps1 n because ( ! sav+ ( "t1 b because1 on all b exceptional passages1 ! small1 close /ep gives him a bett] basis ( balance = 8 next rea*-out & cut4 ,l>ge buckets only become necess>y :5 ! angle ( ! ice wall is s /eep t !re is no room = ! %9 & knee to /& upright above ! foot4 ,a big slice has !n to be cle>$ away above ! /ep1 & ?is g5]ally involves enl>g+ ! size ( ! floor ( ! /ep1 especially if ! cutt] is n exp]t4 ,a man has to le>n to cut (f ei!r %\ld]4 ,he mu/ also be able to cut /eps ) ei!r h& alone1 9 ord] to h 8 o!r h& free to take h&holds on ! exceptionally difficult passages or trav]ses :]e ^! are f\nd necess>y4 ,to aim a /ep ) "o h& ne$s practice4 ,to keep a firm grip on ! axe %aft1 m especially z ?is gets ic$1 makes x important to secure a %aft t is well balanc$ & easily grasp$4 ,x may well h "s protub]ance or coll> :i* prev5ts ! h& slipp+4 ,= ! same reason ! sl+ is a s\nd precaution4#ad ,to cut h&holds 9 ice calls = a v f9e t\*4 ,! be/ t c be usually =m$ is no m ?an a /eady+ nick1 ov] ! edge ( :i* ! glove c be hook$4 ,! h& %apes ! edge ( ! nick to ! curve ( ! f+]s by pressure1 & 9 ! process ! glove freezes slightly to ! ice4 ,! h& c r>ely give m ?an a balance hold on ice4 ,security & an*orage mu/ be giv5 by ! feet4 ,simil>ly1 ! h& or r axe hold t we make by driv+ 9 ! pick above u1 9 ord] to help u ov] a bad /ep1 is usually inadequate4 ,! pull t comes on ! %aft ) our weight mu/ always be f a direction diff]5t to t 9 :i* we drove 9 ! po9t1 & ! /ra9 w ei!r loos5 ! po9t or lev] out ! section ( ice :i* ! bl[ has 9 "p deta*$4 ,to drive 9 ! pick /raight & n on a sw++ arc1 s t x may rema9 firm at an angle to take ! pull ( our weight 9 transf]5ce1 requires a k9d ( arm /roke v difficult to make ) suffici5t =ce 9 h>d1 /eep ice4 ,= m5 )\t claws ! scrambl+ me?od1 :i* "s lead]s risk to save lab\r 9 cutt+1 ( alt]nat+ "o good ice /ep ) a scrat* = ! o!r foot1 cov]$ by an axe hold1 c only be excus$ by r>e circum/ance4 ,x is f> bett] to take ! little extra "t requir$ = mak+ s\nd /eps "u bo? feet4 ,m5 on claws1 h[ev]1 are bett] able to use h&holds & pick holds 9 ice4 ,_! feet are firm s long z ! angle & _! n]ve all[ !m to /& upright 9 balance4 ,all !y require is a balance hold1 to cov] !m 9 />t+ ! next movem5t2 = s mu* assi/ance a h& nick or a driv5 pick c well be tru/$4 ,! /ep = ! foot :i* is pass+ inside & next to ! ice slope c1 to save "t1 be made small] ?an t = ! outside foot4 ,= a good p>ty1 )\t claws1 ! /ep = ! inside foot ne$ only be a nick = ! side ( ! boot1 provid$ always t x is incl9$ at ! "r angle4 ,to use su* /eps x is obvi\sly important t ! :ole p>ty %\ld foll[ ) ! same foot4 ,= m5 ) claws !re is no ne$ to make ?is diff]5tiation4 ,:]ev] /eps are ne$$ = claws1 !y may all be made ( ! same small size--j a suffici5t nick to take ! side po9ts ( ei!r claw4 ,9 cutt+ on a diagonal uphill1 = m5 )\t claws1 x is bett] to make ! int]val betwe5 ! /eps %ort] :5 ! ris+ /ep is to be made f ! inside foot on to ! outside foot4 ,9 ris+ f ! outside foot on to ! inside foot a long] /ride c be made 9 balance1 & ! int]val betwe5 /eps c be made long]4 ,9 cutt+ diagonally on ! d[ngrade1 ! contr>y is ! case4 ,9 dropp+ f ! inside foot on to ! outside foot a long] /ret* c com=tably be made ?an f ! outside foot on to ! inside foot4 ,9 cutt+ horizontally1 a long] /ret* c be made f ! outside foot on to a /ep = ! inside foot1 ?an vice v]sa4 ,trifl+ di/9ctions2 b a good cutt] :o rememb]s !m w save ! in*es on 8 alt]nate /eps2 & _m in*es sav$ on long ice slopes mean a numb] ( /eps sp>$ & m9utes1 ev5 h\rs1 economiz$4 ,= m5 )\t claws1 or n v exp]t1 x is bett] to make /eps too ne> toge!r ?an too f> ap>t4 ,safe progress is ! be/ progress4 ,?is applies especially to cutt+ d[nhill4 ,until a climb] is ?or\ghly practis$ 9 l[]+ 8 weight on ! b5d+ ( a s+le knee1 he w always f9d "o in/ant ( delicate balance 9 a desc5d+ /ride2 & ! long] ! int]val betwe5 /eps1 ! m difficult ! balance1 until ! po9t comes at :i* he is r$uc$ to axe scrap+1 or %uffl+ himself d[n ! ice lean+ aga9/ 8 h&4 ,:5 he f9ds ei!r help necess>y1 ! /ep cutt] %\ld be giv5 w>n+ at once t ! int]vals are too long4 ,cutt+ on ! d[ngrade is usually f\nd m difficult ?an cutt+ uphill4 ,at ! same "t1 ! secur+ ( ! "r fa%ion & incl9ation ( ! /ep is ev5 m important on ! d[ngrade ?an on ! up1 s9ce ! balance 9 tak+ a d[n-/ep is m difficult1 n only = ! cutt] b = 8 foll[+4 ,! /eep] ! angle at :i* /eps h to be made d[nhill1 ! m awkw>d becomes ! balance2 until1 9 desc5d+ at a v /eep angle1 ! cutt+ has practically to be done ) "o h&4 ,= ?is reason1 on v /eep slopes x is bett] to cut %ort desc5d+ zigzags ( an easi] angle1 ev5 9 n>r[ c\loirs :]e economy ( "t & lab\r w\ld po9t to a v]tical ladd]4 ,:]e !re is no room = a desc5d+ or an asc5d+ zigzag1 x is bett] n to attempt to make /eps = ! side-l5g? ( ! foot1 b to desc5d or asc5d face inw>d1 cutt+ ) "o h& a p]p5dicul> ladd] ( #8pigeon-holes1' or /eps %ap$ l small *ur* apses1 to be us$ bo? by ! boot-toes & ! h&s4 ,= m5 on claws a v]tical ladd] ( nicks1 = ! f+]s & ! two front po9ts ( ! claw1 is all t is ne$$4 ,9 cutt+ zigzags = m5 )\t claws1 besides mak+ all[ance = ! diff]5t size & l5g? ( /ep & int]val ne$$ = ! inside & outside feet1 ! turn+-/ep at ! corn] has to be made ( diff]5t size & %ape4 ,x %\ld always be l>g] 9 size & semicircul> at ! back1 s t ! climb] c pivot r\nd 9 x on 8 toe1 )\t hit*1 until he faces ! o!r way4 ,x is well to provide a good h&-nick or an obvi\s hold = ! pick1 conv5i5tly plac$ above ! turn+-/ep4 ,/eps ^u h>d1 ov]hang+ ice1 or ^u ice ne> ! p]p5dicul>1 are practically impossible to make or use ) any real security4 ,! *ief difficulty is to make any s\nd hold = ! h&s1 su* z may keep ! body 9 balance above ! feet4 ,x is also g5]ally impracticable ^u p]p5dicul> or ov]hang+ ice to cut away suffici5t ice 9 ! slope at ! back ( ! /ep to all[ ! leg to /& erect above ! foot1 especially if ! tread is slant$ d[nw>d & inw>d at a safe incl9ation4 ,:5 t\rs de =ce ( ?is "* are p]=m$1 x is usually ^u ice :i* has froz5 9 #8wat]fall' fa%ion1 coat ov] coat1 s t x becomes possible to cut ?r\gh "o coat & get a d[nw>d h&hold betwe5 ! /rata ( ice4 ,su* holds1 ( c\rse1 _c be reckon$ ^u z dep5dable = m ?an a balance lift ) ! h&4 ,claws w help u = su* nice feats2 b !y are be/ only attempt$ on practice glaci]s1 or :]e ! re/ ( ! p>ty is s\ndly an*or$4 ,on high expos$ ridges we h (t5 to deal1 9 trav]s+ across ! faces ( t[]s1 ) a mix$ coat+ ( sn[ & ice1 9 reality a sn[ cake 9 process ( trans=mation into ice by infiltration4 ,! sn[ has to be cle>$ away1 & en\gh ice hack$ f ! rock to leave u on ! l[] sill ( ! gap1 s =m$1 a suffici5tly firm & broad ice edge = a /ep4 ,?is is f9e engrav+ = a lead]3 if he cuts too r\ghly1 ! :ole plate may flake (f & leave him smoo?1 v]tical rock to trav]se2 & if he /ops too soon1 ! flake bel[ may simil>ly peel away :5 8 weight comes on ! /ep =m$ by its upp] edge4 ,on glaci] ice1 any rib1 crack or flaw 9 ! ice w naturally sugge/ itself z ! gr\ndwork (1 if n ! sub/itute =1 an ice /ep4 ,a /one on ! ice1 or ! pocket :i* x leaves :5 cle>$ away1 makes g5]ally an adequate toehold1--c]ta9ly a hold = ! po9t ( a claw4 ,9 cutt+ across ice flakes1 or along n>r[ bridges ?r\gh sracs1 if ! bridge is solid en\gh x is be/ to make side-foot nicks along "o side ( ! cre/4 ,if x is n solid en\gh & ! /eps h to be made along ! actual edge ( cre/1 x is well to rememb] t ! fit1 & especially ! exact l5g? ( ! /ep1 are v important4 ,! boot sole slips ab\t on ! top ( a flat ice surface1 & a /ep on a n>r[ cre/ :i* is made too %ort or too long = ! boot r5d]s ! balance prec>i\s4 ,if claws are worn1 ! /eps w be unnecess>y1 & ! p>ty w use ! side or truncat$ cre/ ( ! bridge accord+ to its solid>ity & _! own conv5i5ce4 ,on glaci]s1 ! flak+ ice t we meet ) on ! faces ( big sracs dem&s great nicety ( t\*4 ,! /eps are difficult to make1 z x is difficult to *eck ! fracture at ! "r po9t4 ,!y are difficult to use1 because our weight may cont9ue ! "w1 & ! :ole flake surface bel[ our feet may come away4 ,claws are ( real s]vice1 z !y grip )\t />t+ a l9e ( d[nw>d fracture4 ,if we are )\t !m1 a deep pick hold mu/ be secur$1 driv5 ?r\gh into a deep] /ratum ( ice1 to protect ! prec>i\s foo?old on ! flake surface or edge4 ,l>ge flakes t boom or s\nd holl[ to ! axe are be/ left alone4 ,on #8cru/$' sn[1 sn[ t has melt$ & refroz5 to an icy surface1 :i* is (t5 too h>d to p]mit ( foo?olds be+ kick$1 /eps are be/ made by a dragg+ /roke ) "o corn] ( ! adze-blade along ! face ( ! sn[4 ,any attempt to sw+ or to cut ) ! pick w result 9 ! po9t /ick+ at e /roke1 & ?us 9 v sl[ progress4 ,on v h>d1 /icky surfaces1 :]e ! pick /icks monoton\sly & does n split ! sn[-ice1 & :]e ! drag /roke ( ! adze-blade w n p5etrate1 ! corn] ( ! adze %\ld be /ruck lightly 91 & ! axe %aft lev]$ %>ply 9 ! direction away f ! /ep-mak]4 ,?is w bur/ out a small cube ( ice beh9d ! blade4 ,two su* bl[s & j]ks are g5]ally en\gh to cle> a suffici5tly long /ep = a boot4 ,on s(t]1 /icky surfaces a s+le well-aim$ j]k+ bl[ ( ?is sort1 made by a s+le motion ( ! "o h&1 foll[$ by a %>p1 driv+ kick ) ! boot1 usually =ms /eps rapidly en\gh to all[ ( ! ma9t5ance ( a sl[ walk+ rhy?m4 ,( c\rse1 to a p>ty on claws1 su* surfaces1 :i* _c lie at v /eep angles1 pres5t a pleasant ballroom or billi>d-table vi/a ( indulg5t prom5ade4 ,sid5ote3 ,us+ ,/eps4 ,we le>n to use /eps be=e we are1 usually1 all[$ to make !m4 ,b we _c use !m until !y are made4 ,h5ce ! ord] ,i h foll[$ "h4 ,to use /eps rightly calls prim>ily = good balance4 ,a man mu/ le>n to walk 9 /eps upright1 m]ely re/+ 8 h& or axe po9t aga9/ ! ice z he moves up or d[n f "o /ep to ! o!r4 ,if he leans inw>d1 or hangs on to axe or h&hold1 he becomes a dang] to 8 p>ty4 ,! /eps are n cut = ! angle :i* 8 foot !n makes ) ! ice2 he may easily slip1 & ! fa9te/ j]k ( ! rope w snat* 8 foot f ! /ep4 ,a man upright & balanc$ on 8 foo?old at ! "r angle c take a consid]able weight or j]k if he has b a second's w>n+4 ,a man on claws has d\ble ?is p[]4 ,9 us+ a /ep a climb] has n only a duty to 8 own balance movem5t1 b to e foll[+ memb] ( ! p>ty4 ,he mu/ use x exactly z x is made1 & leave x z he f\nd x4 ,! foot mu/ arrive neatly & leave cleanly4 ,a fractional mi/read leaves = ! next man an unc]ta9 or blurr$ /ep1 if x does n ru9 its security4 ,!re may be no ov]tread+1 & no twi/+ or turn+ ( ! foot on any /ep1 except on ! turn+-/eps :i* are design$ = t purpose4 ,at ! turn+-/ep ( a zigzag ! climb] twi/s r\nd face inw>d on 8 toes4 ,if ! /ep is only cut = "o foot1 he mu/ only use x ) ! "o foot1 po9t+ x 9 ! direction 9 :i* ! impr9t indicates t ! lead] us$ x4 ,o!rwise he w spoil ! /ep & get ! sequ5ce ( 8 feet wrong4 ,on /eep ice our ma9 difficulty is to pass ! inside foot f beh9d to 9 front1 betwe5 our outside foot on its /ep & ! ice wall4 ,beg9n]s & bad icem5 are incl9$ to avoid ?is difficulty by %uffl+ f /ep to /ep ) ! outside foot always lead+1 protect+ ea* *ange ( foot ) an axe hold4 ,?is is dang]\s & ru9\s to ! /eps4 ,on ! v r>e passages :]e x may be f\nd necess>y1--= in/ance1 on ! few feet ( trav]se across ! face ( an ice-glaz$ rock wall1 or across a v]tical ice bulge 9 a c\loir1 :]e pass+ ! foot is impossible1--! lead] w h cut a cont9u\s l$ge1 on :i* he int5ds ! feet to be ?us %uffl$ & )\t risk4 ,o!rwise ! inside foot mu/ always be pass$ 9 front1 :atev] ! difficulty2 & ! bett] a man balances & ! less he leans inw>d & cl+s to ! slope1 ! easi] becomes ! pass+ ( ! foot4 ,:]e ! wall is s /eep t to pass ! leg & hip-bone means really a movem5t out ( balance1 ! lead] may be tru/$ to h made "s h&hold above1 if only = 8 own protection4 ,on /eep ice1 m5 on claws h to be v c>eful 9 pass+ ! inside foot1 s z n to cat* ! prongs 9 ! puttie or fa/5+s ( ! firm foot4 ,on ! o!r h& a man on claws1 secur$ to ! ice by 8 prongs & n m]ely by ! friction ( 8 sole1 c flex 8 firm ankle f> m freely outw>d & all[ 8 inside foot room to pass4 ,9 desc5d+ a v /eep ice /aircase1 x is important n only to foll[ ) ! prop] feet b to notice h[ ! lead] us$ ! /eps4 ,/eps on a desc5d+ ladd] are n infrequ5tly cut ) ! int5tion t ! inside foot %\ld be dropp$ beh9d ! outside foot z we /& sideways on a slope1 & n pass$ 9 front ( ! /&+ outside foot & !n dropp$1 z 9 ! m usual movem5t = easi] angles ( desc5t4 ,/ep cutt]s %\ld rememb] ! device4 ,x is n only easi]1 on occasion1 to cut a /ep 9 ?is fa%ion v]tically bel[ & n on a desc5d+ diagonal1 b x is me*anically an easi] movem5t ( desc5t1 on a /eep wall1 to l[] ! inside foot ?us beh9d ! /&+ foot ?an to pass x 9 front4 ,on a diagonal desc5t1 if ! %ort] legs ( a foll[+ man f9d ! /eps are made too f> ap>t = 8 desc5d+ balance1 & he has no "t to make fre% ones1 he w sometimes f9d x saf] to turn "r r\nd & desc5d ! /eps backw>ds1 turn+ 8 o!r *eek to ! wall4 ,8 out/ret*$ toe c rea* f>!r 9 ?is attitude4 ,x is n s\nd = m ?an a few /eps1 & n dignifi$2 b dignity mu/ be sacrific$ to security if ! /eps are already made & x is too late to prote/1 & x is bett] to arrive cleanly ) ! toe on a /ep1 ev5 ! wrong way r\nd1 ?an to scrabble d[n insecurely1 lean+ aga9/ ! ice ) ?igh or h&4 ,x is (t5 ass]t$ to be ! bus9ess ( ! second man to #8f9i% (f' ! lead]'s /eps & enl>ge !m4 ,?is has gr[n out ( ! mi/ak5 belief t l>ge /eps are saf] ?an small1 well-%ap$ ones4 ,! bett]+ may1 on occasion1 be done by delib]ate arrangem5t betwe5 two m54 ,a return by ! same r\te may be int5d$1 :5 ! l>g] /eps w endure bett] ?r\gh ! heat ( ! day4 ,or if !re are weak] icem5 9 ! p>ty x may save "t to divide ! lab\r ( mak+ ! specially good & num]\s /eps !y ne$4 ,o!rwise ! alt]ation is q unju/ifiable & improp]4 ,! be/ cutt] presumably is lead+1 & he w h made ! /ep ( ! "r %ape to />t )4 ,if x has be5 good en\gh = him to /& ^u & cut ahead f1 up or d[n1 x is good en\gh = ! p>ty to foll[ ^u4 ,a second work+-ov] ( ! /ep risks spoil+ x4 ,a pat*$ /ep is nev] z good z a clean /ep1 cut j to ! "r po9t & left raw = ! kick ( ! foot to f9i% & to m\ld4 ,if he does n spoil x1 a second man by re-cutt+ po/pones 8 real bus9ess1 :i* is to emphasize ! m\ld ( ! /ep /ill fur!r by ! "r plant+ ( 8 foot4 ,if he has "t to sp>e f 8 functions ( an*or+ ! lead] or ! m5 beh9d1 he c employ 8 h&s bett] else:]e4 ,he may make additional h&holds = balance on bad passages1 or1 by arrangem5t ) ! lead]1 introduce int]v5+ /eps1 to save ! lead] "t & to fav\r a weak] foll[+4 ,if he introduces /eps1 he mu/ be c>eful n to upset ! sequ5ce ( feet = :i* ! lead] is cutt+ ! ma9 l9e ( /eps4 ,he may1 also by arrangem5t1 devote himself to break+ up & disp]s+ any l>ge fragm5ts ( ice left ab\t ! /eps1 ?\gh n1 ( c\rse1 to cle>+ out ! small /uff :i* is expressly left to take ! impr9t ( ! foot4 ,he ?us incid5tally relieves 8 p>ty's bottl$-up emotions by (f]+ a fair t>get = ! abuse f bel[ :i* foll[s su* cle>+ up1 b f :i* ! lead+ /ep-cutt] mu/ always be exempt4 ,x is a graceful concession on a lead+ /ep-cutt]'s "p if1 :5 he is do+ 8 own cle>+ z well z cutt+1 he recollects t 8 foll[+ h heads z well z feet4 ,m5 foll[+ on claws1 9 /eps1 nicks1 or only claw-tracks1 are fre] to v>y _! sequ5ce ( feet or _! fa%ion ( us+ /eps2 ! good hold ( ! prongs is m ?an a sub/itute = ! nice fit ( ! correct foot to ! m\ld ( a /ep4 ,b bo? = ret5tion ( rhy?m & = security x is bett] z a rule to foll[ ! lead]'s tracks & save ! "t :i* mu/ be sp5t 9 select+ new treads4 ,?is applies m especially to expos$ h>d ice :]e ! rope is reta9$4 ,m5 mov+ )\t ! rope may pref] to digress f ! actual treads & f9d unbrok5 hold+ surface = _! own claws4 ,! lead]'s g5]al l9e %\ld1 h[ev]1 be foll[$4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,rope on ,ice4 ,on ice1 if ! rope is reta9$1 z x w be on exact+ slopes by all p>ties )\t claws & by _m p>ties ) claws1 x is worn 9 its normal fa%ion1 ) ! wai/-knot "u ! left %\ld] & on ! side t[>ds or away f ! slope accord+ to ! direction ( ! zigzag4 ,"o h&1 g5]ally ! "r1 holds a %ort l5g? ( slack1 z a precaution aga9/ j]k & to leave a m>g9 = a long] or %ort] /ride 9 our own or our front man's advance4 ,! rope %\ld nev] be q taut4 ,if bo? h&s are requir$ = a mom5t1 to use ! axe or to take a h&hold1 & ! slack has = ! "t to be dropp$1 we mu/ regulate our di/ance c>efully1 /ep by /ep1 f ! man 9 front1 s t ! rope to him cont9ues to hang 9 an easy curve1 :i* w nei!r cat* on ! ice nor be j]k$ by an extra l5g? ( /ride on 8 "p4 ,we expect ! same c>e f ! man beh9d u4 ,on h>d gra9y ice x is useless to attempt to belay ! rope ) ! axe1 z is possible on sn[ :]e ! rope c be loop$ r\nd ! driv5 %aft4 ,corrective measures mu/ be left to ! firm balance on a good /ep or on fa/ claws1 & to ! spr+ t ! arm1 hold+ ! slack1 may be able to give to ! rope be=e ! j]k ( a man slid+ comes ^u our wai/4 ,if a man slips1 our natural incl9ation to lean inw>ds t[>ds ! slope & get "s clamp ) ! axe or h& mu/ at all co/s be unle>n$ & avoid$4 ,once ! body is no long] 9 balance1 nor weigh+ ^u ! /eps1 ! feet are easily snat*$ f _! hold4 ,on s(t gra9y ice x is sometimes possible to make a belay by /rik+ 9 ! pick at a %>p d[nw>d incl9ation above u1 & loop+ ! rope r\nd ! pick & close to ! ice4 ,! %aft mu/ !n be held rigid 9 its fir/ position4 ,unless ! foo?olds are exceptionally bad1 ?is an*or is n m secure ?an t giv5 by good balance on ! feet alone4 ,& m5 are v apt1 :5 a fri5d slips1 to ?r[ _! own weight inw>d ^u ! %aft 9 a clut* ( security1 ?us pull+ ! %aft d[n & loos5+ ! pick f ! "o angle at :i* x c\ld h be5 ( any s]vice z a belay4 ,on zigzags x is ( no use try+ to keep at ev5 di/ances on ! rope1 no matt] h[ ev5 ! pace4 ,! int]vals mu/ alt] z ! m5 pass to & fro on ! b5ds4 ,! rope has to be tak5 91 z slack 9 ! h&1 & aga9 paid out1 z we cross bel[ or above our front man on zigzags asc5d+ or desc5d+4 ,! turn+-/ep is usually made face inw>d 9 asc5d+ & face outw>d 9 desc5d+1 ?\gh occasionally x is saf] to make x face inw>d on a desc5t also4 ,! face-inw>d turn has two advantages3 "o1 t we make ! turn on ! toes & n on ! heels2 & two1 t if we are us+ a pick hold at ! turn or balanc+ ) our axe t\*+ ! ice1 we h n to make ei!r ! *ange ( h& on ! %aft ( a fix$ axe1 or ! awkw>d swirl r\nd ( ! :ole axe outside u & back aga9 on to ! ice1 :i* a face-outw>d turn dem&s4 ,dur+ ei!r turn ! rope %\ld be held high1 & cle> ( ! feet4 ,balance is always easi] :5 mov+ 9 /eps at a fair pace2 & /eps ( /ation>y com=t = turn+ or special an*or+1 & l>ge en\gh = bo? feet1 are only made at int]vals1 g5]ally at ! end ( ! zag4 ,consequ5tly x is n always be/ to foll[ /ep = /ep ) ! /ep-cutt]'s necess>ily sl[] progress4 ,if we d s1 we are con/antly hav+ to wait /&+ on "o foot1 or ) our legs /raddl$ ap>t on two /eps4 ,x is bett] to pause 9 ! turn+-/eps & make up "t on ! s]ies betwe5 !m4 ,= example1 ! second man secures 8 lead] f a turn+-/ep1 & c wait until 8 rope is ne>ly out4 ,he !n foll[s m rapidly up or d[n ! /aircase4 ,he ga!rs up ! rope z he goes if 8 lead] is /ill cutt+1 or1 on worse passages1 ! lead] takes x 9 z ! second asc5ds4 ,8 natural halts w be at ! turn+-/ep ( a zag or at 8 lead]'s la/ an*or /ep4 ,?is me?od is ( p>ticul> use :51 z (t5 9 a c\loir1 x is saf] & m com=table to make our long] pauses "u ! rocks at ! sides1 & n all to move h>monically 9 criss-cross up ! c5tre4 ,m5 on claws may pref] to be )\t ! rope 9 su* places2 9 ?is case !y make _! advance :5 !y please1 & are free to halt on any m com=table nicks to all[ = ! lead]'s sl[] advance4 ,= cont9u\s foll[+ up /eps1 ! rope & axe are usually held toge!r 9 ! outside h&1 ! inside h& be+ left free to take balance t\*es aga9/ ! ice or to take 9 ! slack4 ,= sl[] movem5t1 advanc+ "o at a "t1 ! axe is us$ = ! t\*es or = re/+ aga9/ ! ice dur+ ! pause on ea* /ep2 ?is saves ! *ill to ! f+]s4 ,! axe is at ^! times held across ! body ) bo? h&s1 ! out] ( ! two h&s also hold+ ! slack ( ! rope4 ,on v /eep or o!rwise dang]\s ice we %all only be mov+ "o at a "t4 ,9 ?is case ! lead] cuts a l>ge an*or /ep to :i* he br+s up 8 second2 & ! halts w be made by ! p>ty only at ! recurr+ l>ge /eps4 ,if ! ice1 & p>ty1 are s\nd en\gh = cont9u\s progress1 we %all g5]ally be paus+ on /eps made only = ! "o foot3 x is cle>ly ( advantage1 at su* times1 to h ! fre$om :i* claws all[ u--especially if we are unrop$--to move on until we h f\nd a really com=table nick to wait ^u4 ,on trav]ses or zigzags1 unless we c rea* a v good turn+ or an*or /ep f :i* to pull 9 ! rope ( ! man foll[+1 we d bett] to divide our /ance betwe5 two /eps4 ,our feet are !n well plant$ to resi/ a pull com+ diagonally or f /raight beh9d u4 ,on a trav]se1 if we are fac+ =w>d1 /&+ ei!r on "o or two /eps1 x is be/ n to turn & wat* ! man foll[+1 :i* w prejudice our balance1 b to tru/ to ! feel ( ! rope to tell u :at is happ5+4 ,! rope on ice ) its smoo? movem5t is ev5 a sur] telegraph ?an on rock4 ,moreov]1 9 ! ev5t ( a slip beh9d u1 we h n only ! s\nd ( ! slide z w>n+1 b ! "t tak5 by a slide d[n ice1 p]ceptibly long] ?an by a fall ov] rock1 gives u extra seconds to brace at our /ronge/4 ,we are m prep>$ to d ?is if we keep our body & head turn$ 9 ! same direction z our feet1 ?an if we fir/ turn r\nd & !n h to recov] ! be/ hold+ position4 ,sid5ote3 ,glaci] ,"w4 ,on glaci]s1 besides ! task ( mak+ & us+ /eps1 !re is ! m s]i\s m\nta9e]+ bus9ess ( f9d+ ! be/ r\te1 up or d[n1 or ev5 any r\te at all4 ,! climb] may or may n h be5 able to help himself by prelim9>y reconnoitr+4 ,if n1 & he f9ds himself ^u an unkn[n glaci]1 he has "o or two g5]al pr9ciples to keep 9 m9d4 ,! %ady side ( ! glaci]--!re is usually "o m %elt]$ f ! sun--may (f] ! be/ *ance ( f9d+ clos$-up crevasses3 or ( discov]+ bridges1 connect+ flakes1 etc41 su* z may help him ?r\gh any sy/em ( op5 crevasses :i* ext5ds "r across ! glaci]4 ,on a curv+ glaci]1 ! concave side may pres5t to ! eye ! /eep] & m ?reat5+ waves ( surface ice1 s9ce ! ret>dation w be great] on ?is side4 ,actually1 ! ice on ?is concave side1 ( sl[] movem5t1 w be less intricate & ! crevasses m contract$4 ,(t5 ! /eep cre/s ( ice w be m]ely surface survivals ( crevasses1 & _! bases w be m]g$ cont9u\sly 9 "o ano!r1 =m+ broad glaci] dimples easy to negotiate4 ,on ! convex side1 ! ice cre/s ( swift] movem5t may appe> to be m negotiable1 b ! crevasses w be op5 & deep2 & on ?is side !re is always m possibility ( f9d+ a second>y or t]ti>y sy/em ( edge-crevasses intrud+ ^u ! normal side-sy/em4 ,^! crevasses are produc$ by ! friction ( ! glaci] aga9/ its conta9+ walls1 &1 l o!r crevasses1 by ! unev5ness ( ! rock b$2 b be+ on ! convex curve & unsubject$ to compression !y n only op5 b /ay op54 ,mo/ edge-crevasses are usually mu* cov]$ ) mora9e & /ones1 on l[] glaci]1 & by _m trea*]\s =ms ( rott+ sn[ on upp] glaci]1 & !y are ?or\ghly unpleasant to "w ?r\gh4 ,x is be/ to avoid !m by turn+ out t[>ds ! middle ( ! glaci]1 until ! side-rifts run out 9 h>mless cracks4 ,on a glaci] ( approximately /raight desc5t ! ord9>y sy/ems ( crevasses are ?ree 9 numb]3 ^! v>i\s m>g9al crevasses1 transv]se crevasses1 & crevasses runn+ l5g?ways d[n ! fall4 ,! transv]se crevasses are caus$ by ! falls 9 ! rock b$ ( ! desc5d+ glaci]4 ,!y are be/ cross$ on a direct l9e ( asc5t or desc5t ( ! glaci]4 ,accord+ z ! glaci] is hump$ 9 ! middle1 or flat & ev5 holl[1 ^! crevasses w be f\nd1 9 ! fir/ case1 less op5 ne>] ! sides ( ! glaci]1 & 9 ! second1 less op5 t[>ds ! flat or concave c5tre4 ,! ?ird sy/em1 ( l5g?ways crevasses1 is due to ! op5+ out ( ! conta9+ walls ( rock1 or to long #8hog-back' elevations 9 ! rock b$ bel[1 :i* ?ru/ up ! c5tre ( ! glaci]4 ,?is is ! m dang]\s sy/em to negotiate4 ,crevasses1 especially ^? ^: edges are conceal$1 mu/ be approa*$1 = cross+1 at "r angles to _! run4 ,a p>ty asc5d+ or desc5d+ ! glaci] l5g?ways w h con/antly to be sw++ its :ole l5g? on ! rope1 :eel+ until at lea/ two ( ! p>ty at a "t w be approa*+ ! crevasse at "r angles to its l9e & _! =m] l9e ( m>*4 ,s long z ! glaci] is cle> ( sn[1 ! cross+s c be ?us safely1 if tiresomely1 manag$2 b :5 ! crevasses are sn[-cov]$1 or :]e we meet l5g?ways & transv]se crevasses int]l9k$1 x calls = f9e iceman%ip to prev5t sometimes all ! p>ty f9d+ !mselves mov+ along ! same l9e z ! crevasse !y int5d to cross1 or ev5 ov] its sn[-cov]$ l5g?4 ,:]e a glaci]1 /raight or crook$1 has "o ( its sides unsupport$ by a rock wall1 & is !re=e fall+ away at its own edge1 or :]e its m>g9al & transv]se crevasses h jo9$ h&s1 a disagreeable sy/em ( curv+ crevasses mu/ be expect$4 ,?is is difficult to prospect1 & dang]\s to unravel if x is "u sn[4 ,to locate ! direction ( a #8scimit>' crevasse at "o po9t1 & avoid x or cross x correctly1 does n protect u aga9/ its lat] loop ( unexpect$ trespass ^u our r\te4 ,! side ( ! fall+ away ( a glaci] %\ld z f> z possible be avoid$1 9 spite ( ! temptation ( its easi]-look+ surface ice4 ,on l>ge glaci]s1 :]e two sy/ems ( big crevasses1 ea* equal & /ill active1 h met1 we f9d ! wor/ problem ( all3 t is1 sep>ate #8cubes' or isl&s ( ice ) crevasses on all _! f\r sides4 ,x leads only to disappo9tm5t to attempt to get ?r\gh a big sy/em ( ?is "*4 ,=tunately x is g5]ally recognizable f a di/ance by its up/&+ squ>$ summits4 ,= a space1 also1 r\nd ! junction ( any two glaci]s ^! turbul5t effects ( cross-pressure mu/ be expect$1 & ! area ent]$ ) caution4 ,on high sn[-cov]$ glaci]1 ! huge rotund depressions or mills _c be disreg>d$4 ,b !y c usually be skirt$ closely ) confid5ce4 ,!y are ! result ( /ra9s t1 =tunately1 d n create subsidi>y or flank+ clefts4 ,!y resemble mammo? ice sea ur*9s1 n glacial />-fi%4 ,on glaci]s ( rapidly *ang+ angle & surface1 a disagreeable ph5om5on is ! =mation ( an upp] cru/ ( ice1 or froz5 sn[1 ov] less] depressions ( ! mill type4 ,! cru/ gets sep>at$ f ! fall ( ! surface bel[ x1 & :ile x cont9ues to pres5t a h>mless appe>ance to all b v close inspection1 x may surprise a :ole p>ty by lett+ !m d[n simultane\sly into a suffici5tly />tl+ holl[4 ,! situation is g5]ally m s5sational ?an s]i\s4 ,simil>ly1 9 w9t]1 pools are =m$ 9 glaci] holl[s & froz5 ov]4 ,!n !y are cov]$ ) sn[1 & ! wat] dra9s f "u ! cru/4 ,?us ice-traps are =m$ v difficult to detect by ! eye1 b :i* s\nd holl[ "u ! te/+ tap ( ! axe po9t4 ,on cov]$ glaci] ! axe may nev] re/ idle4 ,glaci]s 9 g5]al1 l riv]s1 alt]nate betwe5 di/9ct falls & m level slopes ( smoo? %oot or brok5 rapid4 ,! r\tes ?r\gh ! smoo? sections are easy to trace out f above1 m difficult f bel[4 ,! falls are m difficult to unravel f above1 on a desc5t4 ,9 com+ d[n l>ge dry glaci]s we c assume t a fall r>ely ext5ds equally brok5 "r across ! glaci]2 & t !re w be a long b5d+ eddy ( smoo!r surface dally+ close r\nd ! edge ( ! m brok5 section1 :i* may af=d u a passage ?r\gh or r\nd ! rapids4 ,on a small or /eep glaci]1 :]e ! fall visibly occupies ! :ole bread? ( ! glaci]1 & !re is no eddy r\nd x1 x is useful fir/ to discov] if !re may n be a direct c5tral l9e :i* appe>s to =ce ?r\gh ! fall a long arr[-po9t ( lazi]1 m level fl[1 su* z we look = :5 we are canoe+ d[n rapids4 ,fail+ ei!r ( ^!1 on a small /eep glaci] ! fall is (t5 be/ skirt$ on ! concave1 or on ! %ad[$ side ( ! glaci]4 ,only 9 r>e ye>s1 ( hot seasons foll[+ mild w9t]s1 d alp9e crevasses1 or m (t5 "o great crevasse1 sometimes ext5d "r across a n>r[ /eep glaci]1 & (f] no ?r\gh r\te1 or bridge4 ,z a la/ resort !n x may be necess>y to take to ! rocks at ! side ( ! glaci] & circumv5t ! fall4 ,to get (f a glaci] at ! "r po9t 9 ! ev5+1 & also to lose no "t & pati5ce :5 we turn d[n on to ! big glaci]s 9 ! e>ly morn+1 x is our bus9ess to h not$ be=eh& f above ! lie ( ! crevasses1 & ! po9ts :]e x w be be/ to />t cross+ _! tr5d4 ,_m glaci]s tempt u ) long slop+ l9es ( good go+ :]e _! crevasses slant inw>d & upw>d f ! m>g94 ,if we foll[ ^! )\t pre-exam9ation1 we ei!r f9d our entry c>ri$ out & across to :]e ! sy/ems meet & produce difficult ice1 or our exit balk$ ( a l&+-place4 ,a few resolute trav]ses ( ! side crevasses1 bas$ ^u obs]vation1 w (t5 take u on to ! ma/]-diagonal1 t laun*es u cle> ( ! c5tral fall or l&s u on our *os5 m>ge4 ,x w be se5 t x is ( value to tra9 ! eye to read a glaci] f above1 & m>k out ! be/ r\te1 be=e we desc5d ^u x4 ,?is inspection %\ld be made n only ( ! glaci] on to :i* imm$iate desc5t is int5d$1 b ( all ! glaci]s comm&$ by ! ridges ^u :i* we are climb+ 9 a giv5 season4 ,! in=mation may be invaluable = a future day1 & ! practice w s]ve conv5i5tly to develop glaci] presci5ce & glaci] in/9ct4 ,9 addition1 we secure a g5]al idea ( ! condition ( ! glaci]s 9 a p>ticul> season1 or 9 a p>ticul> locality1 :i* w assi/ by analogy to ! unravell+ ( o!r glaci]s :i* we may h be5 unable to prospect4 ,a good iceman n only notes f af>1 b reta9s 8 recollection ( ! r\te he not$ :5 he is actually on ! glaci] & expos$ to ! con/ant temptation ( foll[+ l9es ( deceptive lea/ resi/ance4 ,a numb] ( m\nta9e]s le>n to obs]ve1 b few to rememb]2 & few] /ill w uphold memory aga9/ ! evid5ce ( ! mom5t4 ,conv]sely1 x is valuable practical tra9+ to note1 :5 we are on a glaci]1 ! "* ( its rock walls1 & ! po9ts at :i* ! ice c\ld be rea*$ on a desc5t ( ! la/ rocks f ! surr\nd+ peaks4 ,! rock wall j above a glaci] is l a sea cliff1 smoo!d bel[1 & pres5ts a p]petual problem1 ( asc5t or desc5t4 ,long returns may (t5 be avoid$ by our recollection ( inspections ( a p>ticul> wall1 or by d$uctions f our memory ( ! fa%ion ( rock f9i%es f\nd on ! local glaci]s4 ,glaci]s v>y f ye> to ye>1 & *ange slightly f week to week1 & ev5 on famili> gr\nd x is wise to keep ourselves up to date by us+ all po9ts ( obs]vation = ! r$iscov]y ( _! annual or local v>iations4 ,) a few g5]al pr9ciples z guide1 ! in/9ct t comes ) exp]i5ce z our aid1 & back$ by ! usual all[ance ( climb]s' luck1 !re may be said to be sc>cely a glaci]1 9 ! ,alps at lea/1 :i* _c be trav]s$ by pati5ce & skill 9 all b exceptional seasons4 ,an additional measure ( precaution mu/ ( c\rse be conc$$1 if we are foll[+ a l9e aft] noon or aft] sun%9e :i* we c\ld take on tru/ 9 ! froz5 h\rs be=e sunrise4 ,& ev5 be=e sunrise1 9 negotiat+ /eep glaci]s1 dry or sn[-cov]$1 a v c>eful eye has to be kept ^u ! *ance ( ice avalan*es or ( ! fall ( a srac4 ,= ?is risk is n conf9$ to ! aft]noon h\rs1 :5 !y are mo/ likely to fall4 ,a w>m night1 or fro/1 tepid w9d or ra91 w put ! la/ t\* to ! c>e] ( _m vagabond p9nacles deprav$ by ! sun ( previ\s days4 ,:]e we c comm& ! di/ant glaci] above u1 x is n difficult to m>k ! dang]\s p9nacles & sracs1 & to calculate _! direction ( fall %\ld !y *oose = x our mom5t ( passage4 ,o!rwise1 if we are laun*$ 9 ! morn+1 )\t prospect1 into ! bl9d intricacies ( a big ice fall1 ! traces ( previ\s falls mu/ be our signals4 ,!y w be ei!r sc>s1 f :i* we draw conclusions accord+ to _! appe>ance ( age or newness1 or1 m frequ5tly1 ! rema9s !mselves ( a pa/ fall1 %att]$ fragm5ts ( ice4 ,f ! surface ( ! blocks we "k :e!r ! fall 0 rec5t or n4 ,if ! surface is blue & new 9 ! morn+1 x has be5 a rec5t or night fall1 & ano!r may be expect$2 ! same if x has only ! rime ( fro/ ^u x4 ,if ! surface has melt$ at all & be5 refroz5 s9ce ! fall1 x is ! fall ( ! day be=e or ( /ill old] date1 & x ne$ n be especially reg>d$ 9 mak+ an e>ly morn+ trav]se4 ,! diff]5ces are notable1 & a practis$ eye1 back$ by k ( ! wea!r imm$iately prec$+1 c say )9 a day or a night :5 ! fall took place1 & :e!r x 0 a day or a night fall1 & judge accord+ly1 ) "s probability ( correctness1 :5 a simil> fall may be expect$4 ,aga91 if !re are traces ( sev]al falls ( diff]5t dates1 ! passage is expos$ to ! rak+ ( m ?an "o p]iodic srac mass1 & x mu/ be avoid$4 ,if x is b a s+le old fall1 ( a complete srac1 :i* no exp]t w h difficulty 9 discov]+1 x _c fall aga9 & may be disreg>d$4 ,aft] ! sun has once ris51 all comm&+ & l>ge sracs1 ev5 if !re is no trace ( previ\s falls1 mu/ become objects ( suspicion1 if we h to pass bel[ !m4 ,_! p]iod ( decl9e & fall is proce$+1 & its close _c be calculat$ ne>] ?an )9 a few h\rs4 ,b a skill$ p>ty1 ) claws & exp]i5ce1 ne$ n be afraid ( adv5tur+ on to a cross+ ( ! wette/1 blue/1 & na/ie/-look+ sracs1 provid$ t !y c "w out a r\te ( safe foot+ & t ! ?reat5$ zones are visible1 & !re=e avoidable4 ,s long z sn[ does n conceal ! cleavages or muffle ! frailties1 ! difficulties ( ice1 z su*1 are a delight to ma/]4 ,) a good axe1 good claws & a good fri5d1 to set "o's feet on ! crisp spr+ ( morn+ ice & feel battle jo9$ ) ! :ite1 blue & silv] giants ( a glaci] fall1 ,i "k no excitem5t s sanely joy\s2 & no s\nd s ?rill+ z ! clean holl[ smack ( ! axe & ! bell-l ru/le ( ! fall+ ice-*ips return+ f ! deep crevasse2 & yet aga91 no exultation m heal?y ?an to look back ?r\gh ! glitt]+ labyr9? ( turquoise & grey precipice1 ( sapphire *asm1 frett$ spire1 & luc5t ar*1 flake & buttress1 & see ! little s]p5t ( our blurr$ blue /eps1 edg$ ) ! t9y w9k+ prisms ( sunlit ice-du/1 so>+1 dipp+1 circl+1 haz>d+ on its absurd adv5ture3 surely a connect$ ?read ( v happy human purpose1 ass]t+ its gay consequ5ce triumphantly ?r\gh ! he>t ( ! wilde/ & mo/ beautiful ( ! conflicts betwe5 nature's sil5t armies4 ,sid5ote3 ,sn[-cov]$ ,glaci]4 ,high] glaci]s1 & ! high] rea*es ( glaci]s cov]$ ) sn[1 are ! mo/ complex ( all m\nta9 problems1 & _! unravell+ is ! f9al te/ ( m\nta9e]+4 ,!y dem& = _! duality ( difficulty ! ma/]y ( sn[ & ice te*nique 9 comb9ation2 & = _! associat$ risk a f\rfold measure ( precaution>y skill2 = on !m we expect to enc\nt] ! ord9>y risks ( sn[ sup]impos$ ^u ! hidd51 & !re=e magnifi$1 possibilities ( dang] on ice4 ,! great icem51 ^? :o c disreg>d a late desc5t aft] a long day1 & by memory1 or by ! ice in/9ct :i* is ! emanation ( recollect$ exp]i5ce1 are able to lead a tir$ p>ty un]r+ly ?r\gh ! fanta/ic1 (t5 invisible entanglem5ts ( a sn[-cov]$ glaci] sy/em1 int5sifi$ by sun%9e1 _! own faculties unimpair$ by d>kness1 fatigue or dang]1 are ma/]s ( ! craft2 & !y are few en\gh = u to give !m ungrudg+ly ! title ( g5ius4 ,! peculi> risks ( sn[ glaci]s =ce ^u u a reconsid]ation ( ! numb]s prop] = a p>ty4 ,solit>y climb+ is nev] ju/ifiable on any type ( exp$ition :i* involves ei!r sn[ or ice2 9 fact any:]e :]e ! increase 9 ! s-call$ objective risk makes x impossible to obs]ve ! sup]-precaution>y conditions :i* mu/ always limit a lonely climb]'s p]=mance1--z else:]e enum]at$4#ae ,an exp]t on claws may pass a day alone on a dry glaci]1 ) ! k t he is tak+ "s def9ite risk4 ,b anyone :o v5tures alone on sn[-cov]$ glaci]1 :atev] 8 skill1 is giv+ to ev]ybody1 except himself1 a pro( t he lacks ! mo/ important "p ( a m\nta9e]'s m5tal equipm5t4 ,! "q z x affects a s+le climb] is simple4 ,) ! consid]ation ( ! ju/ifiability ( a p>ty ( two v5tur+ on sn[-cov]$ glaci]s1 ! complications beg94 ,a p>ty ( two1 ,i h said else:]e1 if !y are exp]ts1 is ! ideal p>ty = mo/ rock climb+4 ,= mo/ normal m\nta9e]+ :i* includes /raight=w>d ice "w ! addition ( a ?ird to a /rong p>ty adds little except a moral security1 & dim9i%es ! complete h>mony 9 rhy?m & pace4 ,on cle> ice slopes ! additional protection is small4 ,if1 z betwe5 two m51 "o has n be5 able to *eck ! o!r's fall1 ! ?ird man w v r>ely be able to /op ! slip ( bo? ! o!rs4 ,on sn[ slopes1 except to %>e ! me*anical lab\r or 9 c]ta9 exceptional cases1 already m5tion$1 to p>ticipate 9 ! corrective an*or+1 two good m\nta9e]s %\ld n ne$ re9=cem5t4 ,b on sn[-cov]$ glaci]1 :]e hidd5 crevasses come into "q1 n only are two insuffici5t b ev5 ?ree may f9d !mselves h>d put to x if two ( !m h to pull out ! ?ird f a bad crevasse4 ,"s m\nta9e]s h ma9ta9$1 & 9 pr9t1 t x is nev] necess>y to fall into crevasses2 t 9 e case a man ) good eyesight1 k ( glaci] signs & unfail+ obs]vation 7all ( :i* ! lead] ( a p>ty ( two mu/ possess = any type ( climb+7 c always di/+ui% _! unse5 pres5ce & locate _! l9e4 ,?is view is ne>] ! tru? ?an ! l>ge numb] ( climb]s :o h nev] le>n$ or nev] c>$ to use & tra9 _! s5ses w\ld be prep>$ to admit4 ,9 n9e cases out ( t5 ! crevasse is really p]ceptible4 ,b !re is ! t5? case1 ) :i* all m5 :o climb mu/ on occasion h to deal1 :]e !re has be5 no visible sign1 & :]e ! crevasse is discov]$ too late or is only escap$ by accid5t4 ,& fur!r1 !re is also ! sup]num]>y case :5 ! crevasse is visible1 b :5 its cross+ mu/ yet be risk$1 z ! mild] ( sev]al critical alt]natives1 & ! consequ5ces accept$4 ,z ! matt] mu/ /ill be consid]$ "o = discussion1 & x is ( real mom5t to cle> ! gr\nd = a s\nd] tradition ?an at pres5t regulates our div]se doctr9e & *ameleon practice1 ,i %all m5tion a few in/ances ( :at ,i h call$ ! t5? case4 ,9 a rec5t alp9e season a mild w9t] & a long hot summ] produc$ conditions ( sn[ sub-surface entirely unfamili>4 ,crevasses _h op5$ bel[ long-e/abli%$ sn[ slopes ( unimpea*able aspect4 ,_! cov]+s _h become t5u\s & fragile1 b until mid-,augu/ ! upp] surface ( old sn[ pres5t$ no appe>ance ( subsid5ce or *ange4 ,no eyesight c\ld h prev5t$ ! falls t result$4 ,su* a /ate ( sn[ _c be unique1 or conf9$ to ! ,alps2 &1 9 fact1 ! same ph5om5a1 9 a less subtle =m1 may entrap less exp]i5c$ m\nta9e]s almo/ any season--guides z well z guideless amateurs4 ,moreov]1 ev5 :]e ! crevasse %ad[ w\ld normally be visible1 fail+ light may trick ! be/ eye1 a level sun may dazzle1 or l[ mi/ may wipe out all sign2 & !n our exp]t may g ?r\gh z easily z ano!r4 ,few ev5 ( ! mo/ exp]i5c$ guides b h suff]$ ! exp]i5ce4 ,"s h be5 ?r\gh2 o!rs h _h _! foll[+ drop ?r\gh :]e !y _h pass$ unsuspect+2 yet o!rs h only av]t$ ! break by good luck or corrective gymna/ics4 ,aga91 !re is ! case :5 ! pres5ce ( ! crevasse may be visible or suspect$1 b :]e its bread? is undiscov]able4#af ,or1 aga91 :]e ! b\nds are discov]able1 b :]e _! criss-cross+ may elaborate new risks4 ,suppose u to be two grave m5 mak+ ! desc5t ( a hang+ glaci]4 ,we f9d ourselves fac$ ) ! alt]natives ( return+ up ! peak1 ( sitt+ out possibly 9 det]iorat+ wea!r1 or ( tak+ ! *ance ( unravell+ "o ( ^? glaci] cross-sy/ems ( sp\t+ volcanoes1 :]e ! ice is heap$ & beat5 up into sn[-cov]$ vault & dome1 & only ! t9kle bel[ our feet w>ns u t we are walk+ ov] ! brittle cupola ( "s hidd5 ,/4 ,paul's4 ,"o ( u might be p>don$ = break+ ?r\gh "h3 & h[ %all "o o!r extricate him8 ,a m frequ5t1 #8sup]num]>y' case is t ( ! b]gs*rund1 ) its s+le bridge :i* we h to cross to get at our peak at all1 or to get home be=e night4 ,9 ! morn+ x may h be5 secure2 on our return its security1 or ! rev]se1 has to be r$iscov]$ ambul&o4 ,! exp]i5ce is common en\gh1 & few p>ties ( two w be able to plead n guilty to hav+ at "s "t tak5 ! fly+ *ance4 ,9 ^! & simil> cases precaution>y & corrective iceman%ip c d mu* to r$uce ! risk = ! p>ty ( two4 ,b unless su* a p>ty climbs s z nev] to cross sn[-cov]$ crevasses at all1 :i* is to po/ulate absurdity1 "s risk !re mu/ always be ( a break-?r\gh4 ,& if t once occurs1 = a p>ty ( two ! situation is t5 times z s]i\s z = any great] numb]4 ,= if ! fact t a man may excusably fall ?r\gh may be consid]$ e/abli%$1--& ,i %all assume t x is1 suffici5tly at all ev5ts = practical m\nta9e]s1--x is only a "q ( fur!r =tune :e!r ! crevasse is s %ap$ t "o ( ! p>ty ( only two c rescue himself or ev5 be help$ mat]ially by ! second man4 ,sev]al corrective devices h be5 sugge/$1 su* z we>+ two ropes1 keep+ a h&-loop ready ne> our h& on ! rope1 etc4--devices :i* are n[ us$ 9 ! confid5ce t !y =m a g5u9e safegu>d4 ,! int5tion ( ! d\ble rope is t if "o man falls ?r\gh1 ! o!r w untie "o rope f 8 wai/1 & fa/5 x to 8 axe1 :i* he w drive 9 securely z a belay4 ,! man bel[ w !n pull on ?is rope1 & ! man above on ! rope /ill atta*$ to him2 ?us secur+ t ! two m5 w ea* be pull+ sep>ately to raise ! "o weight4 ,! effectiv5ess ( ! d\ble rope s us$1 h[ev]1 assumes t ! crevasse is "o ) op5 walls & clean firm edges1 :i* w all[ ! second man fir/ to an*or ! "o rope r\nd 8 axe1 & !n move up & /& close en\gh to ! edge to be able to pull 9 ! second rope :ile 8 fri5d bel[ does acrobatics up ! an*or$ rope4 ,b ^! are n ! crevasses into :i* any obs]vant lead] ( a p>ty ( two has any "r to fall4 ,good m51 if !y fall1 are trapp$ by sn[-cov]$ crevasses ( indet]m9ate edges1 or by ! midway break+ ( a visible b trea*]\s bridge4 ,9 su* crevasses ! fall5 man w be "u ! projection ( a lip ( sn[4 ,he w be hang+ free1 probably unable to d m ?an t\* ! walls ) 8 axe4 ,! man above w h all he c d to hold on2 he may n be able to f9d secure sn[ )9 rea* into :i* to drive 8 axe = ! belay2 & 8 h&s w r>ely be suffici5tly free to untie "o wai/ rope1 drive ! axe & fix ! rope to x1 s t he c move up & cle> away ! ov]hang4 ,! ropes w cut deeply into ! sn[ lip ) ! weight2 & ! friction hold ( ! sn[ 9 :i* ! ropes are emb$d$ w militate aga9/ ! effective pull+ ^u 8 rope by ei!r man4 ,if ! two ropes are1 z usual1 ti$ to ! wai/1 ! "o w probably h twi/$ r\nd ! o!r2 bo? w be jamm$ 9 ?is position 9 ! sn[ cut1 & nei!r man w be able to di/+ui% on :i* rope he is suppos$ to pull4 ,ev5 if !y h be5 kept cle> be=e1 ! cutt+ ?r\gh ! sn[ w twi/ ! ropes & jam !m1 s t !y _c be us$ sep>ately = pull+ at all4 ,! project+ sn[ w int]rupt communications & int]f]e ) any simultane\s action 9 pull+ f above & bel[4 ,nor c ! man bel[1 susp5d$ 9 air1 really d mu* to help4 ,tie a rope r\nd y\r *e/ & a b\gh2 drop t5 feet on x1 & !n try to pull y\rself up x6 ,& a man 9 a crevasse is mu* worse situat$ = attempt+ juggl+ feats4 ,! con/riction ( ! rope alone w soon make him helpless & lat] unconsci\s4 ,! %ock1 ! imm95t p]il & ! cold w contribute to weak5 him = ! /r5u\s ef=ts requir$4 ,fur!r1 if ! rope is ti$1 z x usually is1 "u ! arm1 ! knot w "w up "u 8 %\ld] & practically put "o arm out ( action4 ,all ! /r5g? ( ! arm w be requir$ = m]ely =c+ d[n ! knot & noose1 s z to keep x "u ! arm-pit2 ! mom5t ! arms are lift$ to attempt a pull1 ! knot w =ce itself up & half-p>alyse ! "o arm4 ,x has be5 sugge/$1 z a p>tial solution1 t ! two m5 %\ld n rope at ! ends ( ! rope1 b keep "s feet ( loose end w\nd r\nd ! body4 ,!n if "o falls 9 he c1 ) luck help+ him1 release ?is slack & make a foot or ?igh noose on :i* ! body c re/ :ile susp5d$1 ?us reliev+ ! con/riction ( ! *e/4 ,any?+ t may help is wor? try+1 & ,i %\ld c]ta9ly advise ! me?od z giv+ a small extra *ance 9 a bad situation4 ,b ?is only deals ) "o ( _m difficulties4 ,exp]i5ce has aga9 & aga9 %[n me t ! man bel[ becomes incapable ( active co-op]ation1 f cold & %ock if n f con/riction1 be=e ! m5 above1 h[ev] prompt & exp]t !y may be1 c arrange & c>ry out any effective s*eme ( rescue4 ,i h kn[n ( difficult situations :]e ev5 two m5 above prov$ insuffici5t = ! complex task ( reta9+ firm fix$ an*ors1 cle>+ ob/ructions & pull+ up4 ,9 any case no me*anical device c be equival5t to ! p[] ( a ?ird man1 & two m5 c nev] be z safe z ?ree4 ,once ?is is conc$$1 we may admit t a numb] ( good m\nta9e]s w probably cont9ue to hold ! view t two is ! be/ numb] = _m sorts ( climb+2 & t !re=e p>ties ( two1 />t+ out ) ! be/ int5tions1 w occasionally f9d !mselves compell$ by ! necessity ( avoid+ ev5 great] risk to haz>d ! cross+ ( sn[-cov]$ crevasses or bridges ( dubi\s /ability4 ,!y %\ld c]ta9ly !n put on a d\bl$ or a second rope4 ,"o ( ! two rope-l5g?s :5 ti$ %\ld be long] ?an ! o!r4 ,?is runs risks ( twi/+ & is a nuisance1 b 9 case ( a fall x secures t ! ropes are at once di/+ui%able1 & x %\ld be pre>rang$ t ! man :o has fall5 %\ld always d 8 pull+ ^u ?is loos] rope4 ,! second man %\ld h ! end ( ! loos] rope atta*$1 n to 8 wai/1 b to 8 axe %aft4 ,:5ev] ! lead] crosses an obvi\s bridge or pauses to probe1 ! second man %\ld plant ! axe1 ) ! loose rope atta*$1 at once 9 ! sn[1 & hold ! o!r1 tight] rope 9 8 two h&s1 ready = em]g5cies4 ,x is cle> t on ?is me?od "s practical use is made ( ! protection ( ! second rope4 ,if ! lead] goes ?r\gh1 ! second man avoids all ! enorm\s difficulty ( unty+ "o ( two taut ropes1 ( fix+ x to 8 axe1 & !n an*or+ x1 ) ! :ole weight ( ! man bel[ dragg+ on him4 ,! weight is on ! "o taut rope r\nd 8 wai/2 he has only to drive 9 ! axe ) its slack rope already atta*$1 & ! fix$ an*or is ready = ! man bel[ to />t pull+ ^u1 :ile he himself at once has 8 h&s free to pull on ! taut rope4 ,aga91 if ! re> man falls 9--:i* ( c\rse he has ev5 less excuse = do+--?is me?od has ! advantage ( keep+ ! second rope already loose & di/+ui%able 9 8 h&1 to cl+ to or climb ^u1 & also ( sav+ 8 axe = him4 ,?is d\ble advantage is "s rem$y = ! fact t ! lead]1 :o 9 ?is case w be ! man left above1 w h bo? ropes /ill fix$ to 8 wai/1 z on ! old faulty sy/em4 ,i d n sugge/ t ! lead] also %\ld h ! second rope atta*$ to 8 axe4 ,he mu/ h 8 axe q free4 ,x might be well also to adopt ! plan ( ! few feet ( loose end w\nd r\nd ! wai/1 to make a foot noose )1 if ! circum/ances & position all[4 ,:5 ! d\ble rope is worn1 ! re> man %\ld always c>ry ! sp>e rope4 ,if ! d\ble ropes are !n1 z is q possible1 twi/$ & jamm$ 9 ! sn[ groove1 he has yet a ?ird *ance ( mak+ free & quick connection ) 8 lead]2 & unless1 z ,i h said1 bo? m5 c beg9 in/antly to use _! full /r5g? ^u di/9ct ropes1 !re is small *ance t "o man c get ano!r out ( an und]cut crevasse4 ,9 place ( ty+ ! loos] rope to _! axe1 "s m5 pref] to compromise1 & make a fix$ loop 9 ! second rope ne> _! wai/1 ?r\gh :i*1 9 case ( ! fall ( a man 9 front1 !y c ?ru/ ! axe into ! sn[1 & s get a provisional an*or4 ,?is loop 9 ! rope close to ! h&1 to snat* at or ?ru/ ! axe ?r\gh 9 em]g5cy1 is also us$ by m5 9 l>g] p>ties :5 l9k$ by ! usual s+le rope4 ,! me?od has _m objections2 & all ! mat]ial security x gives is q z usefully & less objectionably obta9$ f ! coil or s ( slack we are accu/om$ to grip 9 ! h&4 ,9 ! case ( a l>g] p>ty1 if a lead] or la/ man does fall 91 ! fir/ c>e %\ld be to drive an axe1 or axes1 securely into ! sn[1 & loop ! rope4 ,"o man mu/ !n approa* ! edge ( ! crevasse & see ! run ( ! rope1 ! nature ( ! pull1 & ! cle>ance ( ov]hang+ sn[1 if any1 :i* has to be made4 ,if ! crevasse has ! "* ( a b]gs*rund1 ) "o lip high] ?an ! o!r1 x is (t5 easi] to pull ! man out f ! opposite side to t f :i* he has fall54 ,"o1 or1 if ! numb]s all[1 two ( ! p>ty mu/ "w r\nd cauti\sly to ! f> side1 tak+ a sp>e rope to let d[n4 ,a noose %\ld be made at ! end ( ! rope be=e x is l[]$4 ,! /irrup = ! foot c also well be employ$ 9 su* em]g5cies4 ,9 a p>ty ( ?ree1 on a suspici\s glaci]1 ! sp>e rope %\ld always be c>ri$ by ! la/ man1 & n by ! fir/ man1 z is usually done 9 guid$ p>ties4 ,) ! two ropes pull+ f diff]5t sides ! extrication is fairly easy4 ,if ! f>!r lip _c be rea*$1 or ov]hangs z mu* z or m ?an ! ne> lip1 !re is no?+ = x b to cut back ! lip ( sn[ ov]hang above ! susp5d$ man until ! rope is cle>$4 ,?is runs "s risk ( injur+ ! man bel[ ) ! fall+ masses2 b ! *ance mu/ be tak5 on occasion4 ,! long] a man hangs1 ! m helpless he becomes4 ,promptitude is ess5tial4 ,ke5 sight is ! fir/ quality = a good lead] on sn[-cov]$ ice2 to be able to rem>k n only e *ange ( %ade or col\r or angle on ! surface imm$iately ahead1 b also to be able to read ! surface well to "r & left = its betrayal ( crevasses t may be cont9u+1 bett] hidd51 across 8 pa?4 ,he mu/ also "k all ab\t glaci] /ructure & ! incl9ations & aspect ( surfaces :]e hidd5 crevasses may be expect$4 ,t9t$ glasses are1 = _m m51 an int]ruption to ! read+ ( ice or sn[1 & (t5 ! cause ( bad lead+4 ,! man is =tunate :o is able to d )\t !m :5 he is lead+1 or :o f9ds en\gh protection 9 ! cle> spectacles :i* be/ suit 8 sight4 ,!re is an exagg]at$ idea ( ! *ances ( break+ ord9>y cle> spectacles :i* has little f\ndation4 ,!y c be worn safely on almo/ all rock & ice2 & ev5 on v sev]e rock1 :]e !y run "s risk ( sma%+ z ! head is rais$ pa/ a l$ge1 !y are z safe on ! nose z 9 a pocket4 ,except "r up "u ! arm-pit1 & n always !re1 !re is no contrivable pocket :i* c be sure ( avoid+ contact ) rock 9 "s attitude ( climb+4 ,aft] our eyes--& our exp]i5ce--we h /ill ano!r crit]ion1 t ( ! h&4 ,! prob+ ) ! axe po9t at e /ep mu/ become p]fectly automatic1 & beg9 ( itself to function z soon z sight or in/9ct makes u suspici\s ab\t ! glaci] surface4 ,we mu/ h ! "r sort ( axe po9t1 "o )\t a l>ge protub]ant coll> to ! spike1 s t we c probe ) nicety ( t\*2 & we mu/ get to "k exactly ! feel ( our axe & ! mean+ ( ! diff]5t resi/ances :i* its po9t signals to our h&4 ,= ?is reason x is well always to use ! same axe or k9d ( axe4 ,:]e our eye or axe probe has giv5 u reason to suspect a crevasse1 ! next te/ is to flog ! same spot lightly ) ! axe po9t4 ,9 deal+ ) sun-s(t surface ?is flick goes deep]1 ) less ex]tion1 & practice c make x a v accurate report] ^u ! consi/5cy4 ,?is too is its m]it 9 te/+ ! ?or\ghf>esom5ess ( visible bridges4 ,:]e also ! sn[ cov] is ?91 ! flogg+ /roke tells u m quickly ?an ! prod :]e s\nd foot+ ends & ! crevasse beg9s4 ,sn[ te/+1 l walk+ ) ! axe1 %\ld be %>$ equally betwe5 ! two h&s4 ,x is n only exce$+ly useful to be equally dext]\s & s5sitive ) ei!r h&1 b ! practice keeps ! muscul> developm5t ev5 & ! g5]al condition ( ! body proportionately bett]4 ,:5 we are work+ ?r\gh crevass$ glaci] ! second man mu/ always wat* ! mean+ ( 8 lead]'s movem5ts1 & halt & brace at once if ! lead] *ecks4 ,! o!rs wat* ea* ! man 9 front ( him4 ,x is ess5tial to foll[ exactly 9 ! /eps on a glaci] ( ?is sort1 ev5 ?\gh ! w9d+s ( ! lead]'s tracks may sugge/ _m pleasant %ort-cuts to ! tail ( ! rope4 ,by wat*+ ! m5 ahead we "k :5 we mu/ be ready to let out rope1 s z to enable ! man 9 front ( u1 9 8 turn1 to make a long /ep across a dubitable crevasse or a %ort jump1 & :5 we %all h to pause & protect him ) ! rope1 z 8 turn comes to />t delicately ov] a presum$ bridge4 ,to hold ! rope taut is irritat+1 to j]k x dang]\s1 & to leave x slack on ! surface irritat+ & dang]\s2 ! correct t\* comes ) exp]i5ce4 ,! lead] w always be on ! look out2 b ! m5 beh9d w naturally be foll[+ ) less close att5tion4 ,!re=e if ! lead] comes ^u a small crevasse or o!r easy ob/acle too slight to cause him an obvi\s *eck1 he %\ld w>n ! man beh9d ( its pres5ce1 z he /rides on1 by beat+ ! spot ) 8 axe2 & ! signal %\ld be repeat$ by ea* man foll[+4 ,aga9 if1 :5 we are all mov+ toge!r1 we h *eck$ 9 ord] to make "s awkw>d /ep or to te/ a bridge1 we mu/ rememb] t 9 a few seconds ! man beh9d u w be *eck+ at ! same place1 & we mu/ slack5 our pace at ! "r second to all[ him "t to cross4 ,x is common & aggravat+ error to hurry on aga9 s z to get into rhy?m ) ! man 9 front1 =gett+ t ! man beh9d w h sl[$ up = our pause1 & w be j]k$ or scuffl$ by our omission to all[ him ! same m>g94 ,! same rule applies if we are s]p5t9+ rapidly d[n a glaci]1 sw++ s z to cross longitud9al or diagonal crevasses at ! "r angle4 ,if we resume ! normal pace ! mom5t we h swung #8into ! /raight' aga9 ourselves1 we leave no "t = ! man beh9d to f9i% 8 p>abola or cross 8 bridge4 ,?is is a rogu]y +ra9$ 9 all b ! be/ ( guides4 ,glaci] craft1 ! ability to *oose 9 anticipation ! easie/ l9e d[n or up a volatile succession ( semi-visible ob/ructions1 & to surpass !m safely z !y become concrete1 c only become an actual possession by long exp]i5ce & unwe>y+ obs]vation4 ,!re is a family lik5ess betwe5 :ole gr\ps ( surface configurations %ap$ by ! same cause1 :i*1 h[ev] dissimil> _! mom5t>y association1 w recall to a record+ eye "s pa/ occasion ( enc\nt]1 & w sugge/ to a cool head & skilful h&s ! prov5 me?od ( avoid+ or defeat+ !m 9 _! new comb9ation4 ,glaci]s =m our av5ues ( tempt+ approa*1 &1 z (t51 ( t$i\s return4 ,dur+ ! h\rs :5 human vivacity is on ! wane ! high] ice falls are op5+ always wid] eyes ( wat*ful malice4 ,t[>ds _! conf\nd+ n only ice craft b all ! qualities :i* produce ! collective /r5g? ( a p>ty1 f temp] to ! s5se ( direction1 mu/ contribute 9 conc]t4 ,among glaci] ambuscades a p>ty t has n f\nd unity w fall to pieces4 ,!y are yet m demoraliz+ to "o ^: lead]%ip is 9 commission1--t griev\s blund] ( divid$ responsibility1 :i*1 aris+ out ( ! sociable conjunction ( two or m self-conta9$ p>ties = ! purpose ( a s+le climb1 leads too (t5 ?r\gh disjo9t$ action to failure1 & ev51 z our *ronicles be> witness1 to disa/]4 ,a really unit$ rope1 well l$1 :i* c "w ?r\gh di%e>t5+ glaci] falls long1 & late1 & l !m1 has graduat$ 9 m\nta9e]+2 & may be consid]$ to hold ! fre$om ( ! great peaks4 ,,sn[ ,,craft ,! te*nique ( sn[ craft is id5tical 9 its pr9ciples ) t ( ice craft4 ,! upright balanc$ movem5t1 ! managem5t ( ! rope1 turn+1 an*or+1 etc41 are ! same1 or only slightly modifi$4 ,only po9ts ( detail1 !re=e1 ne$ be m5tion$ :i* are peculi> to ! diff]5t qualities ( sn[ surface4 ,9 c]ta9 cases1 su* z bridges & cornices1 bo? sn[ & ice are 9 "q1 & ! notes are !n supplem5t>y to ^? made "u g5]al ice craft4 ,to make sn[ /eps is a matt] ( muscle & rhy?m2 to use !m1 "o ( balance & endurance2 b to "k h[ to avoid mak+ !m & :]e n to make !m is ! sci5ce ( sn[ craft4 ,we may le>n to id5tify sn[ /ates by description3 no?+ b exp]im5t c tea* u h[ to deal ) !m4 ,we may classify ! /ates ( sn[ "u _m heads2 b we are only practically conc]n$ ) ?ree po9ts3 :i* ( ^! /ates are pleasant1 :i* are unpleasant1 & :i* are unsafe to walk ^u4 ,( mo/ importance is x to be c]ta9 :i* /ates are likely to be unsafe1 & to be able to recognize _! pres5ce be=eh&4 ,"u ,reconnoitr+ "s sugge/ions are made z to ! signs by :i* sn[ /ates may be int]pret$ f a di/ance1 & "s ( ! c]ta9ly unsafe ones consequ5tly avoid$ 9 anticipation4 ,z to :e!r ! /ate on a p>ticul> day w be pleasant or unpleasant1 ! wea!r ( ! day1 ! h\r & ! angle ( ! sn[ c tell u mu*4 ,! f9al te/ mu/ always be by t\*4 ,sid5ote3 ,"s ,*>act]i/ics & ,c\nt]moves4 ,sn[ ly+ at above an angle ( #bj degrees may slide :5ev] its support is n equal to its mass4 ,its support comes ei!r f beh9d1 ! rock1 ice or sn[ surface ^u :i* x re/s2 or f its quality1 ! cohesion ( its p>ticles2 or f bel[1 ! angle & mass ( ! subt5d+ sn[ slope4 ,9 decid+ ab\t its safety we mu/ take all ^? ?ree po9ts "u our inspection4 ,( its sub-surface we "k some?+ if we c asc]ta9 ! lie ( ! rock /rata or detect ! pres5ce ( ice4 ,( its quality & mass we judge by surface signs & our recollection ( ! wea!r4 ,( its support f bel[ we judge by ! angle at :i* x lies2 n only by ! angle ( a specim5 section1 b ! angle ( all sections ( ! slope bel[4#ag ,sn[ ly+ at easy angles1 expos$ to ! direct] rays ( ! sun1 w usually be s(t2 & :ile we may be able to m9ce ov] its night cru/ be=e sunrise1 we d well to avoid its possibilities ( purgatory on our return lat] 9 ! day4 ,sn[ on s\? & s\?-ea/ faces = ! same reason is ! m to be respect$1 & its e>li] det]ioration mu/ be accept$ )\t res5tm5t4 ,if a /rong w9d has be5 bl[+1 ! sn[ on ! %elt]$ side ( a peak w be ! s(t] & ! m likely to avalan*e4 ,sn[ on a %elt]$ face becomes loos5$ 9 fibre by ! balance betwe5 ! air-curr5ts1 :]eas1 on ! w9dy side1 x w get bl[n (f or bl[n sup]ficially h>d4 ,if !re has be5 ,fhn 9 ! w9d1 ! sn[ w be untru/wor?y all r\nd4 ,fhn has ! insidi\s quality ( dis9tegrat+ sn[ ?r\gh all its dep?2 x may appe> to h affect$ ! surface relatively little1 b x w h r$uc$ ! "u-sn[ to slu%4 ,?is is ! mo/ p]il\s ( avalan*e /ates4 ,sn[ may be expect$ to slide1 "u ! usual conditions1 n only aft] hot days or days ( w9d4 ,days ( w>m mi/ & diffus$ sunlight may be ev5 m delet]i\s4 ,c]ta9 /ates ( sn[ may />t slid+ irrespective ( all *anges ( temp]ature1 at any "t & on calm days1 m]ely z ! result ( "s slight di/urbance4 ,fir/ among ^! is #8p[d]y' sn[4 ,?is may be ei!r fre% sn[ or old sn[ :i* has nev] be5 melt$ & refroz54 ,old] sn[ 9 a p[d]y /ate we %all only expect 9 summ] to f9d at great] heights1 :]e ! daily sun has little p[]4 ,s9ce we %all recognize by sight t x is old] sn[1 & s9ce x has nei!r bl[n (f nor z yet fall51 we %all be reassur$ ab\t its hold+ quality1 provid$ t we c also make c]ta9 t x is n ly+ 9 great masses or at a m9atory angle4 ,sometimes1 al?\gh we may n h se5 x1 we %all get evid5ce ( its pres5ce above u1 9 ! appe>ance on gu/y days ( cascades ( ?9 p[d]y sn[ /ream+ l du/ d[n ! l[] ice or sn[ slopes4 ,9 ! ,alps ^! w9d cascades ( old p[d]y sn[ are s5sational to see or to feel p\r+ r\nd u on a /eep wall1 b !y are too light to be h>mful4 ,! diff]5ce 9 weight betwe5 a fly+ veil ( dry sn[ & "o ( wet sn[ mu/ be felt on ! %\ld]s or ankles to be appreciat$4 ,cascades1 ( a m ?reat5+ s\nd1 betray to u ! pres5ce above ( old granul> or cry/al sn[4 ,! gra9s are easily set 9 motion2 b 9 ! ,alps sn[ ( ?is sort r>ely lies at a dep? to be wor? reg>d+4 ,old p[d]y or granul> sn[1 ly+ at a good angle & 9 light mass1 we %all expect to be labori\s b n to avalan*e3--at lea/ until we h put x to its la/ te/ ( t\*4 ,new sn[1 z a dry p[d]1 if x lies 9 l>ge masses1 mu/ be expect$ to avalan*e on all slopes ( /eep] angle4 ,9 less] quantities1 x may be />t$ by w9d or by an incauti\s passage4 ,on ice or rock x is nev] /able1 until x has be5 cle>$ away or melt$ & refroz54 ,new sn[1 z a wet p[d] on rocks1 is desp]ately *illy = ! h&s1 & has ! disagreeable quality ( trans=m+ itself into an ice glaze "u ! pressure ( ! boots or ! glove4 ,if we are caught out by a fall ( new wet sn[ on rock1 ice-claws w protect our foo?old1 b no?+ w save ! h&s4 ,i h kn[n v few m5 ^: h&s w\ld /& m ?an a v %ort spell ( cle>+ out rock holds 9 wet sn[4 ,gloves are soon saturat$1 & ! ice glaze =m+ "u ! h& /ill fur!r r$uces ! effective grip ( ! numb$ f+]s4 ,x is ?is t makes climb+ on rocks impossible = days aft] a sn[fall2 :ile f sn[ or ice slopes1 :]e we are n s conc]n$ ) h&hold1 ! same /orm w re/ra9 u by its ?reat ( avalan*es4 ,aft] a /orm ( any l5g?1 two or ?ree f9e days are requir$ 9 summ] = ! rock to cle>4 ,! fir/ day ( sun %\ld melt ! sn[2 ! night foll[+ w refreeze x into a glaze3 ! second hot day w melt ! glaze2 &1 ) luck1 ! ?ird day may f9d ! rocks cle>4 ,all wet sn[1 melt+ 9 heat or ra91 9 ,fhn or aft] w9d1 is liable to avalan*e1 accord+ to ! angle at :i* x lies & 9 proportion to ! am\nt ( wat] :i* x conta9s4 ,only exp]i5ce & t\* c tell :e!r sn[ is or is n ov]*>g$ = ! angle at :i* x is ly+4 ,x is a/oni%+ :at a quantity ( wat] sn[ w hold )\t mov+2 & aga91 :at a trifle w set x fall+ or arre/ x4 ,i h se5 a :ole quiet m\nta9 face break into avalan*es "u ! extra sn[ weight dis*>g$ dur+ a few m9utes ( aft]-squall2 & ,i h wat*$ wat]-logg$ sn[ /ream+ l ?9 milk ov] ! slabs ( a nor? precipice1 /opp+ sudd5ly z heavy1 cold grey cl\ds crept ov] ! rocks1 only to beg9 aga9 ! in/ant ! cl\ds pass$ & ! sun broke ?r\gh4 ,fro?y sn[1 nei!r p[d]y nor wet1 b ( ! texture ( dry sea-foam1 is n s frequ5t 9 summ] 9 ! ,alps z 9 "s o!r great ranges4 ,b ,i h f\nd x occasionally ne> big summits or high up on nor!rn sn[ faces4 ,9 spite ( its intimidat+ quality1 x is safe at almo/ any angle if x lies on a good sub-surface4 ,b x is inf9itely labori\s4 ,a /ep takes u up to our wai/ or %\ld]s4 ,progress is only possible by flogg+ a furr[ up x ) =e>ms & %9s1 :i* leaves a trail l an ec/atic sea-s]p5t4 ,"s relief c be got by slapp+ d[n ! %aft ( ! axe flatwise above u & crossways to ! l9e1 & pull+ up on x z on a horizontal b>4 ,be=e v5tur+ ^u sn[ ( def9itely un/able type1 su* z p[d]y sn[ or wet sn[1 we mu/ make c]ta9 ( its mass1 its angle & ! nature ( ! surface bel[ x4 ,we !n adapt our me?ods accord+ly4 ,= in/ance1 if we f9d t wet or p[d]y sn[ is ly+ ^u ice at any?+ b a v l[ angle1 we />t by f9d+ out if x is ( ! same quality = all its dep?4 ,if x is1 we mu/ cle> x away at ea* pace & cut a /ep 9 ! ice bel[4 ,if ! poor quality is only sup]ficial & improves bel[1 or if we notice t :]e ! l[e/ sk9 ( sn[ re/s on ! ice x adh]es ei!r 9 a film or 9 measle-pat*es1--:i* signifies t ! ice & ! sn[ surfaces are go+ ?r\gh a gradual process ( peaceful int]p5etration1--we c c\nt on ?is l[] sn[ surface = sure foot+4 ,we ne$ n cut /eps1 b only /amp ?r\gh ! sn[ to a safe dep? = a s\nd /ep4 ,if we h any d\bt z to ! security ( a slope1 :i* we %all h :5 ! angle ( ! slope & quality ( ! sn[ are v>y+ & ! resultant /ability is indet]m9able1 we mu/ asc5d or desc5d x v]tically1 if possible1 or on v /eep zigzags4 ,we mu/ take c>e to cross incipi5t cleavages1 or traces ( horizontal /ra9s on ! surface1 at "r angles1 & nev] enc\rage !m by lett+ ! weight ( our p>ty tramp p>allel to _! l5g?4 ,a /eep slope ( d\btful quality1 if x has to be trav]s$1 %\ld be cross$ z ne> its upp] edge z possible1 & ?is p>ticul>ly if ! slope is subt5d$ by a cliff or a sn[ slope ( /eep] incl9ation4 ,on a slope actually %[+ traces ( a rec5t slide1 second>y falls may be expect$4 ,a sn[ slope is n a srac1 & x is n s safe to assume t all has fall5 t c fall )\t close inspection4 ,if we _c see ! place ( orig9 we c make a d$uction1 z 9 ! case ( an ice fall1 f ! appe>ance ( ! ne>] debris3 z to :e!r x 0 a rec5t fall1 a night or day fall1 a surface skim1 a local p[d]-ru% or a sample ( gravitat+ "u-slu%4 ,on ! lee side ( ridges :i* h be5 expos$ to ! w9d1 we mu/ expect to f9d sn[ accumulations ( a poor] quality1 & liable to slide accord+ to ! angle at :i* !y lie4 ,?is w be especially ! case if ! ridges are subord9ate ribs desc5d+ f a pr9cipal ridge4 ,on su* ribs1 if we f9d w9d signs on ! ne> side1 we mu/ be c>eful ( ! sn[ on ! f> side ( ea* rib1 & 9 all ! adjo9+ protect$ holl[s4 ,good sn[ is ei!r sn[ ) a h>d surface1 or sn[ :i*1 bel[ ! surface1 rema9s /icky & light4 ,except at great heights1 we %all only f9d sn[ h>d be=e ! sun has t\*$ x4 ,be=e sunrise1 aft] :olesome cold nights1 we c\nt on f9d+ all sn[ surface good & e bridge hold+4 ,:5 we f9d s(t surfaces 9 ! e>ly h\rs aft] a w>m night1 x bodes u ill if we h to return ! same way lat]4 ,on h>d1 /eep sn[1 :]ev] our boots beg9 to scratt fretfully = foo?old1 x is less fatigu+ to put on claws1 or to make a not* ) a s+le "o-h&$ tug /roke ( ! adze-blade4 ,on v /eep sn[ ( m$ium h>dness1 :5 a h&hold is ne$$1 x is bett] to use ! blade ( ! axe ?an ! pick4 ,! m level ! sn[ ! m directly w x h felt ! sun2 ! ?9n] w be its night cru/ & ! s(t] its "u lay]s4 ,!re=e we avoid1 especially lat] 9 ! day1 laun*+ out ^u ! great sn[ plateaux & valleys ( ! high] regions ( glaci]s1 su* z are labell$ #8,firn1' #8,nv1' #8,ewige ,s*nee' on maps1 names ( =ebod+4 ,if we h to take to !m1 we keep to ! sides1 :]e ! sn[-levels beg9 to climb & ! rays /rike less directly4 ,if we h a *oice1 we select ! side or l9e :i* is subject to ! %orte/ h\rs ( full sunlight4 ,always1 if !y are !re1 we use old foot tracks4 ,! floor ( an old /ep melts & refreezes &1 protect$ by its dep?1 rema9s firm] ?an its surr\nd+s4 ,on popul> peaks ^! tracks c become imm5se froz5 ruts1 v awkw>d & ankle-rack+ to desc5d4 ,x 0 report$ "o radiant ye> t a t\ri/ on ! f9al slopes ( ! ,jungfrau _h fall5 into "o ( ^! #8/eps1' & _h be5 extricat$ ) difficulty4 ,sid5ote3 ,sn[ ,travail4 ,:5 we are really 9 = a /eady pl\gh ?r\gh deep sn[1 ! /ride %\ld be kept %ort1 ! knee b5t1 ! weight well =w>d1 & ! body sway+ f side to side--9 fact we adopt ! #8tramp's walk4' ,to ?ru/ ) ! /raight knee is uselessly fatigu+4 ,on s(t sn[ we are lo/ if we _c a*ieve "s sort ( /eady rhy?m4 ,! feet %\ld be plant$ /raight1 & n toes outw>d4 ,! l5g? ( ! /ride ) ei!r leg %\ld be absolutely equal4 ,if ! weights ( ! p>ty are v unev51 ! heavy man %\ld prec$e4 ,x is less fatigu+ = a heavy man to make 8 own /eps1 :]e he all[s be=eh& = ! #8give' ( ! sn[1 ?an to /ride out beh9d expect+ a firm tread1 only1 9 two out ( ?ree /eps1 to f9d ! floor give way "u him4 ,irregul> resi/ances are ! negation ( rhy?m4 ,unless he has ! %orte/ legs ( 8 p>ty1 ! /ep mak] mu/ always %ort5 8 normal /ride on s(t sn[4 ,! l5g? ( ! fir/ man's /ride is increas$ z ea* man beh9d slightly deep5s ! /eps1 until ! la/ man may h to be mak+ a gras%opp] b\nd to rea* f tread to tread ( :at />t$ z a normal pace4 ,on s(t surfaces1 especially :]e ! resi/ance is irregul>1 x is difficult to keep 9 balance1 & ! axe comes into use at e /ep4 ,i h usually f\nd x bett] to rev]se ! axe4 ,! head1 l a ski-/ick1 gives broad] /ay on level sn[1 & firm] t\*es aga9/ incl9$ s(t sn[1 ?an ! po9t4 ,cru/$ sn[1 :]e ! surface has melt$ & refroz51 b too lightly to c>ry our weight1 is ! wor/ sn[ ( all4 ,:5 x lies at easy angles1 x may be extraord9>ily we>isome to cross4 ,x j be>s our weight until ! body is fairly ov] ! foot1 !n x gives & lets u ?r\gh4 ,at lea/ ! half ( ea* lift+ ef=t is ?us lo/1 & ea* fre% /ep has to be made f a yield+ basis uphill on to a h>d "o4 ,rhy?m is impossible1 & ! prolong$ aggravation is demoraliz+4 ,= :i* reason ,i h f\nd s(t sn[ ! "o te/ ( %e] endurance 9 :i* good guides are inf]ior to good amateurs4 ,we meet x n infrequ5tly 9 our own isl&s1 & welcome x !n z good #8alp9e' tra9+4 ,= really bad cru/ !re is no c\nt]move1 except /rong ?ighs & a high flat-foot /ep4 ,on cru/ ( a bett] "*1 especially be=e sunrise1 a %uffl+ /ep1 :i* di/ributes ! weight1 (t5 saves ! foot f go+ ?r\gh1 or lets x s9k to a less dep?4 ,on "s cru/$ surfaces x is possible to slide cauti\sly along on ! %uffle-/ep1 :]e light] m51 walk+ #8heel & toe1' are go+ ?r\gh at ea* /ride4 ,:5 ! surface is too s(t = ev5 a %uffle to save u1 ! tread %\ld be made ) ! :ole flat ( ! sole1 & n ) ! heel lead+ z is usual 9 road walk+4 ,"u ! flat foot1 z "u a sn[-%oe1 ! sn[ packs m quickly4 ,to pivot ^u ! foot1 be=e ! weight comes ^u x1 wid5s ! be>+ surface4 ,s(t sn[ _c be tak5 at a ru%4 ,!re is a peculi>ly cl++ & b9d+ quality 9 ! sn[ ( old avalan*e debris4 ,^! are j ! places :]e mo/ folk />t sev5-leagu$ leap+4 ,if we _c re/ra9 !m1 we make !m take (f ! rope fir/4 ,to be ti$ to a hop-o'-my-?umb :5 our leg has j ent]$ b9d+ sn[1 up to ! ?igh1 at an acute angle to ! pull is full ( unpleasant possibilities4 ,! wise man w cont9ue ev5 "h to move lightly1 & only z rapidly z balance & rhy?m w all[4 ,on long monoton\s sn[ wades1 if we _c get a good rhy?m ( legs or body1 x is sometimes ( use to supply its place by an artificial rhy?m1 c\nt+ ! /eps up to fifty & !n paus+1 or :i/l+1 or foll[+ a tune 9 our head--any?+ t may introduce a rhy?m1 ) re/s1 into ! featureless vi/a ( ef=t4 ,! bor$om t may afflict a p>ty on sn[ is peculi> to itself4 ,! ev5 gl>e & ! w9d+ l9e ( dim9i%+ tracks hypnotize ! eye & m9d1 & produce a conviction ( exhau/ion :i* is (t5 9 great "p self-sugge/$4 ,! wad] feels t he absolutely _c take ano!r /ep4 ,if c\nt+ fails1 & o!r wiles & conv]sational r$-h]r+s %rivel up 9 ! sil5t :ite monotony1 re/ is ! only cure4 ,sleep foll[s easily 9 su* /ates1 & a few m9utes' slumb] (t5 re/ores a man or a p>ty surpris+ly4 ,on long sn[ plods x is be/ to get rid ( ! rope :5ev] ! abs5ce ( crevasses w all[4 ,x b d\bles ! uneasy travail4 ,if x has to be kept on1 avoid spok5 remon/rance :5 ! man be=e or beh9d j]ks y2 let ! rope d ! talk+4 ,if y are lead+1 keep a small1 loose coil 9 y\r h&1 s t ! man beh9d %all n drag y 9 mid-/ep4 ,if y are la/1 y c always ex]cise a salut>y1 sil5t *eck4 ,if y are 9 ! middle1 & y h1 z is frequ5t 9 tir$ p>ties1 an en]getic lead] try+ provok+ly to press ! pace 9 front & ! weake/ memb] lagg+ slightly b prote/+ly ^u y\r rope beh9d1 ! be/ way to protect y\rself1 in(f5sively1 is to take up bo? _! ropes 9 y\r "o h&1 & s l9k _! oppos+ pulls directly on to "o ano!r4 ,y c ?us ma9ta9 equilibrium ) no fur!r discom=t to y\rself4 ,:5 ,i 0 le>n+ ! craft 9 e>ly ye>s betwe5 two guides1 or a guide & amateur ( unequal endurance1 ,i _h _m occasions = p]fect+ ! device4 ,! use ( ski ^u sn[ is treat$ ( sep>ately4 ,:5ev] summ] ski h be5 made z available z ice-claws1 !re c be no d\bt t !y w cancel out = u z mu* ( ! te*nical consid]ation ( ^! p5it5tial sn[ fields z claws h simplifi$ = u ! lab\r ^u all ! angles ( ice4 ,sid5ote3 ,sn[ ,slopes4 ,to make /eps ^u incl9$ sn[ is a matt] ( little difficulty4 ,! direction & weight ( ! kick are sugge/$ by ! angle & texture ( ! surface4 ,b to use !m calls = m c>e ?an is usually giv5 to ! matt]4 ,on s(t slopes x is a nuisance if ! /ep /amp] has a l5g? ( /ride t makes ea* pace a slight ef=t = u4 ,x is bett] to remon/rate at once3 to %ort5 ! pace by refa%ion+ ! /ep is to break rhy?m = ! :ole l9e4 ,( c\rse on easy slopes1 if we are out ( ! rope1 we g z we l1 provid$ t we d n exhau/1 by ecc5tric foll[+1 ! en]gy :i* we %\ld be res]v+ = our turn 9 ! lead4 ,b z ! angle increases1 or :]e ! go+ gets m heavy1 m5 ( any exp]i5ce fall into s+le file2 & !n to make mis/eps1 to tread a /ep d[n at ! heel1 or to /ep outside ! l9e1 is to ?r[ ! :ole m>* ( ^? beh9d u out ( ge>1 & to wa/e our own en]gy 9 repeat+ ! lead]'s "w4 ,x is impossible on sn[ n to be consci\s ( ! leg sw+ ( ! man ahead4 ,if he walks ) ! wrong foot = ! trail1 we are ei!r drawn into 8 error1 to our own inconv5i5ce1 or we resi/ ! attraction ) a consci\s & tiresome ef=t4 ,our common rhy?m goes4 ,worse ?an ?is1 he spoils ! /eps = u4 ,no?+ is m muddl+1 9 asc5d+ or desc5d+ sn[ slopes1 ?an to f9d ! /eps brok5 or d\bl$4 ,we bungle1 & get ! wrong foot = ! lead]'s tracks2 our body z a result balances wrong = _! angle ( use4 ,9 com+ d[n especially1 a bad second man1 :o lets himself lollop c>elessly into tracks or makes #8tumble-/eps' on ei!r side1 confuses e "o beh9d him z well z himself4 ,! :ole p>ty w be wa/+ temp] & /r5g? 9 *oos+ betwe5 a maze ( #8joy' tracks1 or 9 remak+ _! own 9 despair1 :]e !y %\ld h be5 foll[+ me*anically on a ready-made l9e4 ,9 us+ /eps on /eep sn[ ( unc]ta9 /ability1 x is vital to tread "r to ! fraction ( an in*4 ,a tir$ man :o /eps a nail-bread? false on a desc5d+ ladd] ( ?is "* w c]ta9ly cause "s /ep to give1 & endang] ! g5]al safety by a slide4 ,he may expla9 t ! /ep #8broke away'2 b ! fault has be5 84 ,x is ! ideal ( all good climb]s1 al?\gh v few m5 c live up to x1 to use /eps z accurately & ) z danc+ & precise a foot at ! end ( a long day z !y did at ! beg9n+4 ,if a sn[ /ep on a /eep slope looks insecure1 z x (t5 may on wet sn[ aft] sev]al m5 h pass$1 x is be/ to tread slightly inside x & scrape d[n a %av+ ( fre% sn[ to /r5g!n ! floor "u ! foot4 ,b ?is int5tional ov]-tread %\ld nev] be made on ! outside ( a /ep4 ,if a /ep has brok5 away & a new /ep has to be made1 x %\ld be trodd51 simil>ly1 inside ! old "o1 ov] b n exactly 9 l9e above ! brok5 /ep4 ,desc5d+ on sn[ ( poor quality is oddly n]v\s "w4 ,! desc5d+ action is awkw>d1 z ^u ice1 & !re is ! add$ d\bt z to :at w happ5 :5 we drop on to ! foo?old4 ,e "o has days :5 ! muscles are /iff & :5 ! desc5t ( %aky /eps does n g 9 easy balance4 ,at su* times x is reasonable1 & saf]1 to make #8arm-scoop' holds to help ! balance on ! /ep-d[n4 ,we may d on sn[ :at we may n d on ice--take ! weight mom5t>ily (f our foo?old on to ! arms2 because on sn[1 if "s "o else slips1 we c at once drive ano!r foo?old ) ! heel & get into balance = ! j]k4 ,9 com+ d[n /eps 9 s(t1 /eep sn[ :i* h be5 worn away by previ\s memb]s ( ! p>ty1 x is (t5 ev5 advisable to make ^! arm-scoops 9 ord] to save ! ef=t ( mak+ new /eps & to less5 ! weight on ! old ones4 ,on high1 popul> ridges 9 f9e wea!r ! l9es ( old /eps ) _! floors refroz5 & _! %ape spoilt are (t5 uncom=table to use on ! desc5t4 ,= ! m\nta9e] ! :ole day %\ld be equally ( pleasure4 ,! m ! difficulty ( ! climb is ov]1 ! m we may consid] our com=t1 ev5 to ! po9t ( dem&+ a new set ( /eps4 ,on /eep zigzags1 if we are cross+ & recross+ "o ano!r1 we rememb] to give ! man bel[ u asc5d+1 or above u desc5d+1 "t to make 8 turn+ /ep at ! corn]s4 ,if we d n slack51 we %all j]k him or =ce him to let out 8 h& coil j :5 he is mo/ occupi$ ) ! turn4 ,on big faces1 ( yield+ sn[1 we f9d firm] /epp+ up ! w9d-bl[n cre/s ( ! undulations1 (t5 only detectable by _! correspond5ce ) ! buttresses desc5d+ f ! cliffs above4 ,conv]sely1 on faces ( recalcitrant sn[1 we foot x m lightly up ! tr\ghs betwe5 ! waves4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,rope & ,axe4 ,except on h>d morn+ sn[1 or on sn[ :]e we c make absolutely c]ta9 ( :at is happ5+ und]nea?1 x is a good pr9ciple to reta9 ! rope4 ,progress is quick] ?an on ice1 b sight & presci5ce c ensure u less completely aga9/ ! accid5t & ! unse54 ,z a p>tial illu/ration ( ! di/9ctions to be obs]v$1 a /rong p>ty might be ju/ifi$ 9 mak+ _! way unrop$ & on claws up a =midable dry ice fall2 b !y w\ld1 if !y knew _! bus9ess1 !n put on ! rope to trav]se ! easy b sn[-cov]$ angles ( ! nv above1 seem+ly f> saf] ?an ! sracs !y h j pass$ s+ly & unrop$4 8,:at is happ5+ und]nea?0 mu/ be int]pret$ to mean n only :at may be lurk+ und]nea? ! sn[ surface1 9 ! way ( ice or crevasses1 b :at is happ5+ bel[ u on ! m\nta9 side4 ,we keep ! rope on unless we are c]ta9 t ! break+ ( a /ep or a slip w lead to no worse results4 ,if !re is a long1 /eep wall ( ice or sn[ bel[1 or ! sugge/ion ( crevasses or a b]gs*rund1 or a rock cliff1 or ev5 a section ( ! slope :i* we _c see & :i* may conta9 a cliff1 we may take no *ance1 & ! rope mu/ be reta9$4 ,on all smoo? sn[ & ice slopes1 unless we are mov+ %ort-rop$ ov] safe & fairly ev5 glaci]1 ! rope-l5g?s betwe5 u %\ld be all[$ to #8travel' lightly on ! surface4 ,?is light5s ! draw ( a heavy rope c>ri$ on ! wai/ or h&1 & avoids ! /ra9 ^u ! balance4 ,too mu* travell+ rope is a drag2 too little tight5s on u l a brake4 ,! h& mu/ get to "k by feel :5 !re is j en\gh d[n to let x travel lightly & freely4 ,! h&1 too1 z on rock1 mu/ le>n ! habit ( free+1 free+ ! rope cont9ually1 s t x %all n cat*4 ,ov] r\gh surface we raise x cle>2 & ov] #8suspect$' glaci] we keep x all b taut1 tak+ up ! slack 9 a h& coil4 ,we may nev] tru/ sn[ /eps1 unless 9 a v f9e quality ( sn[1 to c>ry m ?an our own weight4 ,9 protect+ o!rs ( ! p>ty1 !re=e1 we _c1 z ^u ice1 rely exclusively on balance & our foo?old to take ! j]k ^u our rope 9 case ( a slip4 ,to an*or1 on all /eep & d\btful sn[ slopes :]e ! angle or ! quality ( ! sn[ advises ! ret5tion ( ! rope1 ! axe mu/ be ?ru/ into ! sn[ beside & above u at e /ep4 ,x is driv5 to ! head or to j beyond half its l5g? accord+ to ! condition ( ! surface4 ,! rope is pass$ r\nd ! %aft & re/s on ! sn[1 s t 9 case ( a slip we get ! friction ( ! sn[ into :i* x cuts to help u4 ,at a turn+ /ep on a zag ! rope is put r\nd ! %aft 9 ! rev]se direction4 ,?is driv+ ( ! axe & ! loop+ ( ! rope m5 %\ld execute :5 ! feet are at re/ on ! holds1 & n1 z _m d1 :ile !y are tak+ ! /ep4 ,x is (t5 v difficult = tir$ m5 to cont9ue = h\rs ! regul> ?ru/ ( ! axe & ! c>eful an*or ( ! rope at ea* pace4 ,b j on ^? angles & on ^? types ( surface :]e ! precaution is mo/ labori\s is ! protection mo/ ne$$4 ,sn[ is n ice1 & 9 proportion z sn[ /eps are easi] to make !y are easi] to break1 & m 9 ne$ ( assi/ance f ! h&4 ,on ! %>p edges ( big ridges ! true foot+ is (t5 along ! cre/ itself4 ,if ! cre/ is too frail = ! feet1 x c /ill provide ! be/ b$d+ = ! driv5 axe or an armhold4 ,if ! sn[ is really ?reat5+1 & x is unsafe to tru/ to /eps along ! side or on ! edge1 x is occasionally pref]able = two climb]s to make _! own /eps along opposite sides ( ! cre/1 ) ! rope rid+ across ! sn[ edge betwe5 !m la mode ,t>t>94 ,if rocks or ob/acles =bid u to use ! rope 9 ?is lit]>y fa%ion1 on su* risky sn[ we %all1 ( c\rse1 only move "o at a "t4 ,to secure a safe an*or /ep :ile ! o!r man %ifts1 ,i h us$ ! device ( driv+ ! axe almo/ up to ! head1 & !n /&+ on ! sn[ crook imm$iately beh9d x4 ,to arre/ ano!r man's slip on /eep sn[1 ! sn[ itself mu/ be us$ to m9imize by friction ! j]k ( ! rope on axe & arm4 ,any bulge or corn] ( sn[ w s]ve1 = ! rope to play ov] &1 sl[ly1 cleave ?r\gh4 ,i h se5 a rope1 held across a %>p slant+ edge1 cut f\r feet into ! sn[ "u ! weight ( a slid+ man2 ! friction /opp+ him g5tly be=e ! j]k came ^u ! axe4 ,if !re is no corn] to help1 we mu/ lean ! :ole weight ( our body ^u ! rope :]e x runs out to u r\nd ! belay on our axe2 s cru%+ ! rac+ rope into ! sn[ & r$uc+ ! f9al tug ^u ! driv5 axe %aft4 ,sid5ote3 ,b]gs*rund & ,bridge4 ,! cross+ ( ! obvi\s bridges ov] ! b]gs*runds t subt5d sn[ slopes is an art by itself4 ,flat or snub bridges are less secure ?an bridges t display a ,roman ar*ness ( irregul> sn[ on _! upp] surface4 ,if ! bridge is /eep en\gh to call = /eps1 ! /eps ( ! lead] %\ld be foll[$ absolutely1 unless he has previ\sly ca/ d\bts ^u _! validity by fall+ ?r\gh !m4 ,if ! c5tre ( ! bridge1 or ! spr+ ( ! ar* at its high] end1 appe>s too frail = /eps1 & ! ^w be giv5 to crawl1 ! crawl+ %\ld be done q flat1 & ! body pull$ along by ! axe4 ,to fox-trot on h&s & knees is little saf] ?an to walk on ! feet4 ,if ! bridge is only d\btful1 we cat-/ep across x ) ! lighte/ foot we c4 ,we c>ry ! axe at ?igh level & at "r angles to ! body1 s t if a leg goes ?r\gh1 ! axe comes d[n on ! sn[ l a rail "u ! arm1 & has a good *ance ( cat*+ on firm] sn[ at ei!r end4 ,i once dropp$ t5 feet into a crevasse1 & 0 /opp$ ?us by ! axe "u my arm-pit hit*+ betwe5 ! n>r[+ walls4 ,if we feel a foot go+ ?r\gh1 we mu/ avoid above all ?+s our fir/ impulse1 to ?r[ ! weight convulsively on to ! o!r foot4 ,! :ole body %\ld be all[$ to fall =w>d flat4 ,a swimm+ movem5t ) ! arms !n (t5 extricates u )\t fur!r collapse4 ,( c\rse on no bridge may m ?an "o man cross at a "t2 & = a d\btful bridge at lea/ two m5 mu/ be /ation>y & an*or+ ! rope ( any man cross+4 ,a /eep bridge ( unprov5 security is (t5 be/ cross$1 on a desc5t1 by a prone glissade4 ,if ! bridge has an obvi\sly cont9u\s surface1 we may pref] to fly x head =w>d & face d[n1 because clo!s admit less sn[ 9 su* fa%ion4 ,b if ! cont9uity is d\btful--& ! fact is (t5 difficult to asc]ta9 f above--x is be/ to %oot ! bridge ly+ on ! back & feet =emo/4 ,! h&s & feet are held ready to %ove (f backw>d aga9/ ! sn[1 & we are ready to f9i% ! cross+ on a fly+ jump1 %\ld a brea* appe> 9 ! bridge z we approa* x4 ,if !re is no bridge1 we sometimes h to jump consid]able wid?s & dep?s4 ,x is bett] !n to take (f soon1 & n to yield to ! temptation to creep j a little f>!r d[n ! /eep1 crumbl+ upp] lip ( ! s*rund4 ,too long a desc5t (t5 ends 9 a slip z ! wall /eep5s1 & x requires a nice judgm5t to cont9ue ! slip discreetly1 & %ove (f = ! jump at j ! "r in/ant to c>ry u across to ! o!r lip4 ,= a high jump into s(t deep sn[ x is p]missible to ?r[ ! axe ahead2 & x is ess5tial to see t !re is en\gh rope out = ! jump4 ,aga91 if a man has jump$ & is %oot+ on d[n ! sn[ slope beyond ! rift1 x is k9d] n to be 9 a hurry to /op him categorically ) ! rope4 ,on l[] sn[ slopes ! angle is r>ely too /eep = a man to be able to /op himself gradually & less pa9fully1 help$ by friction & ! m]e/ sugge/ion ( re/ra9t4 ,jumps ( m ?an tw5ty feet into s(t sn[ h be5 made2 b !y are n agreeable4 ,if ! sn[ on l&+ is at all /icky1 x b9ds at once r\nd ! legs1 & ?reat5s a break or a sev]e /ra9 z ! weight ( ! body travels =w>d above !m4 ,sid5ote3 ,sn[ ,cornices4 ,! cunn+ ( hidd5 cornices _c be ov]rat$4 ,its detection is dealt ) else:]e4 ,once we h locat$ :at we take to be _! l9e ( junction ) ! p>5t sn[ cre/1 we mu/ all[ a fur!r broad m>g9 9 select+ a safe l9e = our /eps4 ,i h kn[n a section ( cornice ?irty feet deep break away along ! l9e ( our /eps1 :5 we ?\ght we _h all[$ a good t5-foot m>g9 f its l9e ( junction4 ,! heavi] ! cornice1 ! deep] ! m>g9 we mu/ leave2 n an easy rule to keep1 z ! sn[ curve back+ a big cornice w be all ! m gradual & solid-look+4 ,lead]s are always apt to cut ! m>g9 too f9e1 = ! reason t ! f>!r we move away d[n ! back ( a cornice1 ! /eep] becomes ! slope1 & ! h>d] probably w be ! sn[ = /ep-mak+4 ,at great heights ! same cold w9ds :i* blew ! cornice may h bl[n ! sn[ slope to cru/$ sn[ or sn[-ice2 :]eas1 :]e ! angle eases (f "r ^u ! cre/ & ! back curves ov] into ! cornice1 ! direct exposure to ! sun w (t5 produce a b& ( s(t] sn[1 easy to kick /eps 94 ,:5 we are deal+ ) huge ridges & long di/ances1 x is v try+ to h to cont9ue to cut /eps at a snail's pace1 on a /eep wall1 :5 ?ree feet above !re is a l9e :]e we c\ld walk4 ,b ^! are j ! situations :i* diff]5tiate betwe5 good & bad m\nta9e]s4 ,dang] is a matt] = our individual judgm5t1 & if a guide1 h[ev] fam\s1 makes /eps at a level t seems to our m\nta9 s5se to all[ too n>r[ a m>g91 we ne$ nev] h ! lea/ hesitation 9 />t+ to make ano!r l9e bel[4 ,! impli$ criticism is bett] ?an remon/rance4 ,occasionally :5 ! cornice is n too big & its back is ice-cru/$ or expos$ to a high w9d1 x is possible to "w along und]nea? x1 bel[ ! cre/ ( ! wave4 ,?is mu/ be done ) caution2 ! %ock ( /ep-mak+ may easily loos5 a section ( ! ov]hang on to our heads4 ,:]e a ridge is surm\nt$ by a d\ble cornice1 t is1 by two cornices curv+ opposite ways1 "o on ! top ( ! o!r1 !re is simply no safe way ( gett+ pa/ !m4 ,p>ties :o p]si/ 9 trav]s+ a great ridge :5 !y f9d x 9 ?is condition mu/ be p]suad$ t _! luck w take pity on _! und]/&+4 ,9 approa*+ ! edge ( any ridge1 if x is n o!rwise obvi\s t no cornice exi/s1 ! lead] mu/ te/ = ! cornice e few in*es ) /rong1 deep ?ru/s ( ! axe %aft4 ,! re/ ( ! p>ty1 protect+ him ) ! rope1 mu/ rema9 well bel[ on ! face until he has demon/rat$ t no cornice exi/s1 or until he has _h "t to locate its l9e & to return to a po9t well bel[ ! junction4 ,su* a cre/ %\ld nev] be approa*$ diagonally1 le/ two m5 might f9d !mselves on ! cornice toge!r1 b always at "r angles4 ,if an uncornic$ ridge gives u reason to suspect1 z we foll[ along its cre/1 t a cornice is beg9n+1 at lea/ two ( ! p>ty %\ld desc5d well d[n ! face 7if rock an*orage is n available71 & protect ! lead] :ile he inve/igates4 ,if we wi% to cross a ridge or a pass & ! f> side is ov]hung by a cornice1 ! lead] mu/ be /rongly protect$ :ile he flogs away a section ( ! cornice1 back to ! s\nd edge4 ,a l>ge slice 9 ?is case %\ld be cle>$ away1 z adjac5t p>ts ( ! cornice weak5$ by ! fracture may fall ^u ! p>ty subsequ5tly z !y desc5d4 ,^! cross+s %\ld nev] be made :]e ! cornice is really heavy4 ,we %all nev]1 ( c\rse1 approa* a cre/ up a wall cr[n$ by a l>ge cornice2 :i* is equival5t to climb+ delib]ately up "u a toppl+ srac4 ,a light cornice we may approa*1 b pref]ably at a po9t :]e x has brok5 away4 ,if no su* gap exi/s1 we may be =c$ to cut our own skylight ?r\gh x4 ,?is calls = great caution & skill2 a small fragm5t may easily sweep away any man bel[ u on ! slope4 ,sid5ote3 ,sn[ 9 ,c\loirs4 ,9 c\loirs & *imneys sn[ c rema9 at a high] angle ?an on op5 slopes1 & pres5ts !re=e "s exceptional features4 ,c]ta9 ( ^! are dealt ) "u o!r head+s4 ,sn[ 9 a rock c\loir1 late 9 ! day1 mu/ always be te/$ be=e we desc5d on to x4 ,?is c sometimes be done ) less tr\ble by ?r[+ heavy /ones on to ! surface4 ,! way ! sn[ spurts or squel*es or rives to receive !m tells mu* to ! practis$ eye4 ,if !y />t a surface avalan*e !y may ei!r betray ice bel[1 or !y may leave b>e a tract ( h>d "u-sn[ d[n :i* we c kick good /eps4 ,! pres5ce ( ice bel[ sn[ is (t5 evid5t at ! edges :]e ! sn[-ice splays out on to ! conta9+ walls4 ,! te/+ process %\ld be repeat$ at int]vals1 z we desc5d1 on d\btful sn[4 ,a long c\loir1 ( pure sn[ above1 has frequ5tly ice bel[ sn[ 9 its l[] sections4 ,9 desc5d+ c\loirs ( unc]ta9 sn[1 we naturally make use ( ! rock walls1 :5 possible1 = belays or holds4 ,!re are (t5 good leg /ances betwe5 ! rock & ! sn[1 :]e ! sn[ veil has %runk away1 ) an ice-trimm$ bord]4 ,if ! sn[ is ( good quality1 we proce$ z we l2 b if x is %all[1 ly+ on ice1 or ( suspici\s consi/5cy1 we asc5d x 9 z direct a l9e z possible1 or 9 /eep zags1 ) a disposition to keep ne> ! sides4 ,on really ?reat5+ sn[ we asc5d & desc5d by means ( ! v]tical ladd] ( apses or pigeon-holes1 climb+ face inw>ds1 & us+ bo? h&s & feet4 ,our tread 9 ?is fa%ion is m fel9e1 & our weight bett] di/ribut$4 ,if we desire to leave a sn[ c\loir by ! rocks on ei!r h&1 or to use ! rocks to help ! asc5t1 x is sage fir/ to try ! side :i* is expos$ = ! longe/ "t to ! sun3 ! sn[ adh]+ to ^! rocks w be k9dli]1 & !re w be less *ance ( an ice glaze4 ,we h1 h[ev]1 to rememb] t ! sunny side is usually t ^u :i* falls ( /ones />t e>li] & occur m frequ5tly2 & our decision mu/ dep5d ^u ! evid5ces ( _! spoor on ! sn[4 ,outcrops ( rock1 9 l>ge sn[ c\loirs1 on ice or sn[ slopes1 (t5 appe> z welcome isl&s 9 a long lab\r ( /ep-mak+4 ,b outcrops are apt to be m or less dis9tegrat$1 accord+ to ! "* ( ! rock4 ,if !y are n rott51 !y are n unusually rubb$ b>e & holdless by ! passage ( ice1 /ones & sn[ ov] !m4 ,su* isl&s1 on ice slopes1 are ne>ly always encircl$ by h>d] ice = a space r\nd _! l[] walls1 :i* increases our lab\r 9 approa*+ or leav+ !m4 ,on _! upp] side !y sometimes support a conv5i5t spit ( good sn[4 ,on ! :ole1 !y g5]ally give m tr\ble ?an !y save4 ,a p>ticul> type ( c\loir :i* is f\nd 9 ! ,alps is wor? m5tion+1 because ( its false he>t & hone/1 grubby face4 ,^! are ! easy c\loirs t deb\* on to ! glaci]s at ! bases ( _m s\nd granite peaks4 ,!y are pla/]$ inside ) loose rubble & sn[ or gritty mud1 & we assume s\nd granite at ! back4 ,) dirt & c>e !y seem fair en\gh to scramble d[n4 ,b !y are (t5 9 a prec>i\s /ate ( deep] decay4 ,! passage ( ! p>ty w />t a gradual or rapid dissolution2 & on occasion ,i h se5 ! :ole cuticle ( c\loirs ( ?is type1 grubble1 sn[ & l>ge rocks1 sl\gh itself (f on to ! glaci] a few m9utes aft] ! desc5t ( a p>ty4 ,!y %\ld always be te/$ be=e entry by dis*>g+ l>ge rocks d[n !m1 to prove _! hone/y or expose _! enamell$ s5ility4 ,sid5ote3 ,sn[ at ,home4 ,among ! ,scotti% m\nta9s practice ( a v useful "* 9 our sn[ craft c be _h dur+ ! w9t] mon?s4 ,f ,novemb] to ,may sn[ w be f\nd ( diff]5t qualities3 ! be/ dur+ ,m>* & ,april4 ,on nor!rn & ea/]n faces we may get /ep-cutt+ on h>d cru/ & ripple cru/1 passable glissad+1 & happy exp]i5ce ( small sn[ slides1 l>ge cornices & sn[ travail4 ,on nor? faces1 expos$ & cru/$ by ! cold w9ds1 sn[ w /ay at an exce$+ly high angle1 & z !re is small risk ( und]ly+ ice1 we c adv5ture admirable practice 9 v /eep sn[ "w ) m excitem5t ?an p]il4 ,! sn[ c\loirs at times introduce u to b]gs*runds1 &1 educatively1 to reconnoitr+ ex]cises 9 id5tify+ ! respective runnels ( /one fall & wat] spurt4 ,on nor? faces 9 ! ,lakes & 9 ,nor? ,wales normally ! sn[ "w is conf9$ to ! fir/ qu>t] ( a cold season4 ,ice is r>e1 except z glaze or z froz5 wat]-fall or drip 9 wet gullies %elt]$ f ! sun4 ,/ep-mak+ is common] ?an /ep-cutt+4 ,( sn[y1 icy & glaz$ rocks we c get m ?an we may desire2 b = sn[ te*nique little b practice 9 travail1 /ep-kick+1 back-slid+1 rope craft & blizz>d-fac+1--all v pleasurable holiday exp]i5ces1 = :i* x is wor? :ile tak+ d[n ! ice-axe4 ,x is curi\s to note t ski-+ z a common device us$ once to be practis$ by ! boys & h]ds ( ! nor?1 ! primitive ski be+ =m$ out ( ! hoops ( b>rels4 ,! cu/om has n[ laps$3 ! effect ( ! enclos+ ( ! hills by walls1 or ( ! boys by ,bo>d ,s*ools4 ,! re9troduction ( "s less elaborate ski might revive a m romantic _s4 ,sid5ote3 ,confus+ ,wea!r4 ,9 fair wea!r r\te f9d+ on sn[ has no difficulties comp>able ) ^? ( ice or sn[ glaci]4 ,! flaws are obvi\s1 & !re are no hidd5 angles4 ,! "o complication is wea!r & atmosph]ic condition4 ,z a result ( ! some:at featureless simplicity ( sn[ slight *anges produce m s]i\s confusions4 ,high w9d is always an enemy1--n only on sn[4 ,a m\nta9e] is m afraid ( go+ out on w9dy days ?an on days ( ra9 & sn[ fall4 ,on sn[1 w9d f9ds a new weapon to h& 9 ! sn[ p>ticles1 ^: bl9d+ assault int]f]es ) ! discretion4 ,! sight ( ! fa9t blur ( sn[ z x is bl[n up f ! skyl9e ( a high ridge w always give u pause3 no passage !re w be possible :ile ! halo rema9s4 ,w9d & sn[ comb9$ may confuse ! be/ ( m\nta9e]s1 & (t5 ! compass proves ! "o rescue f a complete rev]sal ( direction4 ,h[ev] resolutely !y m>*1 few m5 c resi/ on a long tramp ! impulse ( sn[ or w9d on _! faces to sw+ unconsci\sly "o way or ! o!r = protection4 ,a %ift ( w9d 9 a mi/ may take a p>ty1 /e]+ by x on sn[1 ?r\gh a complete circle4 ,i h kn[n ( m51 attempt+ a desc5t on ! %elt]$ side ( a level b int]rupt$ ridge1 :o 7 l$1 by a sp9n+ w9d 9 mi/1 ?r\gh ! ridge & back along its o!r side to _! />t+-po9t1 & all 9 tw5ty m9utes4 ,b ev5 :5 unsupport$ by w9d or obscurity1 a slight depression or a light cl\d may make way-f9d+ difficult on ev5 sn[1 :]e !re are no rock outl9es to p5etrate its guile4 ,a diaphan\s mi/1 approa*+ 9 t9t t ( ! sn[ surface1 is suffici5t to conceal or completely alt] di/ances & angles4 ,9 cases :]e ! mi/ exactly comb9es 9 tone ) ! sn[1 a curi\s ph5om5on makes itself uncom=tably evid5t4 ,! lead] on a sn[y crevass$ glaci] w sudd5ly1 & app>5tly wilfully1 beg9 to fall into crevasses :i* are visible to ^? foll[+ beh9d him on ! rope4 ,!y w m>vel at 8 /upidity1 until !y beg9 to lead !mselves1 :5 !y w reproduce x4 ,! reason w h be5 t :]eas ^? beh9d h "s d>k object1 man or rope1 ^u :i* to focus _! eyes1 ! eyes ( ! man 9 front1 look+ only ^u a uni=m blank surface1 g out ( focus1 & become unable to di/+ui% betwe5 details ( ! same tone4 ,any detail d>k] by contra/--a rock1 or ! l5g? ( ! rope ahead1 or ev5 ! sight ( a di/ant peak1--= su* mi/s are (t5 transp>5t--w yield !m a focal po9t aga94 ,if he has no su* natural assi/ance1 ! lead] mu/ keep look+ me?odically at 8 feet1 & !n =w>d4 ,?is w discov] to him ! ne>] crevasses4 ,= a long] view he may try ! device ( ball+ sn[1 till x cru%es to a d>k] col\r1 & ?r[+ x ahead3 he w !n aga9 be able to see m di/ant details 9 _! relation to ! passage ( ! sn[ball4 ,9 a mi/ or at night1 on glaci]s1 or on sn[ slopes :]e !re is reason to suspect ! neighb\rhood ( rocks1 x is possible to keep direction1 & to discov] t[>ds :i* side ( a slope or glaci] our m>* is t5d+1 by %\t+1 & calculat+ our position by ! "t x takes = ! e*o to return f ! rock on ei!r side4 ,across smoo? slopes a v small & remote ob/ruction w give e*o to our appeal4 ,on op5 sn[ slopes :]e !re are no reta9+ walls1 ! be/ me?od is to h ! full l5g? ( ! rope out1 & put a man ) ! compass at ! re> end to correct ! lead]'s l9e4 ,if a compass is lack+--if x c ev] be lack+ 9 ! m\nta9s6--! man f> beh9d is /ill 9 ! bett] position to judge1 by ! po9t] ( ! rope1 :e!r ! l9e is be+ ma9ta9$ or is incl9+ ei!r way4 ,if a return 9 mi/ ov] ! same gr\nd is expect$1 ! tracks %\ld be made int5tionally deep1 9 ord] to re9=ce ! l9e aga9/ ! sun's action1 :i* may be all ! m rapid :5 ! light is diffus$ ?r\gh su* mi/4 ,! axe %\ld be driv5 deeply into ! sn[ at %ort int]vals1 s z to leave m>ks :i* may la/ long] ?an footpr9ts2 & ?is especially on h>d sn[4 ,on rocks or sn[ 9 mi/1 & ev5 ) less excuse on cle> days1 "s o!r-l& climb]s adopt ! device ( m>k+ ! l9e ( return at important po9ts ( div]g5ce by squ>es ( r$ pap] fix$ "u /ones4 ,9 em]g5cy ^! c be ( s]vice2 b !y are unsightly1 & _! frequ5t use enc\rages climb]s to pay insuffici5t att5tion to a v important "p ( _! "w--:i* is to note & record 9 memory ! details ( a r\te aga9/ ! "t ( _! return4 ,a climb] :o has to f9d ! return l9e on difficult rock or glaci]1 or on any climb t w9ds by devi\s ways1 %\ld nev] omit at all po9ts ( div]g5ce or ( sali5t indication to turn r\nd & note h[ ! passage or k9k looks f ! opposite direction2 :i* is g5]ally v diff]5t f its aspect on ! approa*4 ,di/ant views are (t5 confus$ & absurdly di/ort$ by mi/2 b details close at h&1 = ^: memoriz+ alone r$ pap] c\ld be a sub/itute1 are seldom suffici5tly obscur$ n to be recognizable by a tra9$ obs]vation & memory4 ,only 9 two cases--"o1 ! r>e ev5t ( an exp$ition ov] fog-b\nd sn[ be+ cont9u$ ) ! int5tion ( return ov] ! same l9e2 & two1 equally s+ul>1 ! case ( a p>ty1 :i* conta9s only "o m\nta9e] capable ( lead+ ! return r\te1 attempt+ 9 mi/ a climb ^: difficulty w necessitate ! exp]t go+ la/ on ! desc5t--w\ld ! use ( r$ pap] seem to be ju/ifi$4 ,wa/e pap] is inelegant1 & makes an unimpressive sub/itute = hill craft4 ,b mi/ is a subtle enemy on glaci]s1 & we may sympa?ize ) folk :o meet x by tricks :5 !y happ5 to h br\ght a box ( !m ) !m4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,s5se ( ,direction4 ,9 ! end1 & beh9d all memory & obs]vation1 we h to fall back ^u t useful b my/]i\s faculty1 ! s5se ( direction4 ,its exi/5ce is (t5 d5i$1 especially by m5 :o d n possess x1 & its work+s are attribut$ to p[]s ( obs]vation1 to unconsci\s memoriz+ & to reason+4 ,b no "o :o has m\nta9e]$ or travell$ mu* 9 un*>t$ gr\nd ) m5 ( v div]g5t or v simil> p[]s ( sight or exp]i5ce w be f\nd to discr$it its positive b entirely accid5tal possession4 ,irrespective ( sight & indep5d5tly ( ! pres5ce ( any o!r respectable m5tal faculties1 "s m5 are f\nd to possess x & "s n2 & no exp]i5ce or /udy w ev] equalize ! capacity ( ^? :o _c ) t ( ^? :o c ex]cise x 9 deal+ ) mi/y conditions or unkn[n c\ntry4 ,m5 :o h x only 9 a slight degree frequ5tly impair its fidelity by tra9+ _! obs]vation & memory4 ,by tak+ ?\ght we c ne>ly always confuse x1 9 ourselves or 9 our neighb\r2 & ?is fact has especially to be borne 9 m9d 9 deal+ ) less educat$ bra9s1 su* z ^? ( guides1 :]e its work+ is unconsci\s :5 x exi/s at all4 ,a p]t95t "q or rem9d] may (t5 set !m1 or ourselves1 ?9k+ or d\bt+1 & lead to hesitation or w&]+ :]e a mom5t be=e confid5t movem5t reign$4 ,if we h once made c]ta9 t a guide or ev5 a y\ng] or less exp]i5c$ climb] possesses x1 we may accept its lead+ ?ankfully 9 mom5ts ( d\bt1 al?\gh its c\nsel may contradict our own reason+ or consci5ti\s obs]vation4 ,^? :o d n possess ! in/9ct1 & ^? :o possess x only 9 a small degree1 w f9d x almo/ impossible 9 ?ick mi/ on featureless sn[ to avoid ! incl9ation to turn 9 a circle1 g5]ally to ! left4 ,9 mi/1 ) ! mo/ resolute int5tions1 x is at times ev5 difficult to correct ! incl9ation1 by all[+ = ! /rong] ?ru/ ( ! "r foot 7or :i*ev] may be ! lead+ foot 9 our own case7 & by tak+ ! axe 9 ! opposite h& to t foot2 or by discov]+ & all[+ = our exact am\nt ( bias4 ,! compass is ! only secure guide = ! ungift$4 ,"s m5 h ! s5se 9 ! =m ( an ability to keep a /raight l9e once set1 no matt] :at ! ob/ruction or obscurity2 o!rs 9 ! =m ( kn[+ _! position 9 relation to any ne> or di/ant po9t !y h previ\sly visit$4 ,) a few ! s5se is pol>iz$2 !y #8feel' ! nor?4 ,my own s5se indicates only direction betwe5 po9ts already visit$4 ,al?\gh mak+ all all[ance = ! lead+ foot1 & consci\s t z lead] ,i 0 be+ kept to a /raight l9e by ! compass 9 ! h& ( my la/ man1 ,i h myself 9 ?ick mi/ on level sn[1 aft] =ty-five m9utes ( :at 0 actually /raight m>*+1 felt positive t ,i _h l$ ! p>ty ?r\gh "o complete & "o half-circle to ! "r1 s /rong 0 ! in/9ct to turn to ! left 9 spite ( all precaution & prevision4 ,on ! o!r h&1 ,i h wat*$ a man :o _h be5 br\ght r\nd f ,hamm]smi? to ,s\? ,k5s+ton by ,und]gr\nd on 8 fir/ visit to ,london1 & set to ! task )\t previ\s w>n+1 take & keep1 9 ?ick fog1 ! mo/ direct l9e back aga9 ?r\gh ! maze ( cross /reets2 :i* he c\ld n be said to be see+ = ! fir/ "t1 z !y rema9$ invisible4 ,a s+ul> case 0 t ( a high ,wrangl]1 a m\nta9e]1 ^: s5se ( direction 0 acute1 b inv]t$3 x indicat$ po9ts precisely oppos$ to ! correct ones4 ,once we _h discov]$ ?is1 & all[$ = ! idiosyncrasy1 we made frequ5t use ( 8 o!rwise v exact s5se4 ,= ^? :o may h int]e/$ !mselves 9 ! faculty1 ,i w add t ?is fri5d simil>ly produc$ or wrote d[n ! results ( all m5tal calculations ) ! figures 9 ! rev]se ord]4 ,,glissad+ ,glissad+ is an art t rew>ds ! skilful4 ,= ! inexp]t1 ?\gh ! pleasure 9 its prospect nev] dies1 ! actual p]=mance is m (t5 productive ( a*+ %9s & wet clo!s1 ?an ( birdlike exhil>ation4 ,until ski-+ came 9 to complem5t x1 & we may say to improve ^u x1 glissad+ gave its arti/s _! ne>e/ approximation to ! s5sation ( fly+4 ,its physical ?rill is v little less int5se ?an t ( fly+ on ma*9es ?r\gh ! air1 because ! excit+ vibration ( ! feet ov] ! solid surface provokes a lively consci\sness ( pace & motion disproportionate to ! actual rate usually atta9$4 ,b x has nev] be5 widely recogniz$ t ! art has to be le>n$4 ,v little has be5 writt5 ab\t x1 & mu* ( t little has be5 fundam5tally wrong4 ,all m5 glissade 9 a sort ( way1 z a k9d ( amus+ frolic1 ) tumbles =m+ an integral "p ( ! fun1 l ! p]iodic %rieks ( ! ladies on ! ,e>l's ,c\rt r\ndab\ts4 ,b m5 :o "k h[ to glissade1 & h[ to use its opportunities z a real auxili>y to _! m\nta9 progress1 h always be5 ! exceptions4 ,guides are seldom able expon5ts4 ,m ?an a doz5 fatal accid5ts are directly traceable to bad glissad+4 ,=tunately1 ! great] popul>ity ( ski-+ has come to ! rescue1 & its m g5]al practice %\ld h prep>$ bo? ! m9ds & feet ( a mu* l>g] numb] = a m s]i\s treatm5t ( _! m\nta9e]+ glissad+4 ,a man :o c ski is half-way to becom+ a good glissad]4 ,a good glissad]1 once ! fir/ surprise ( ! ski feel+ is ov]come1 f9ds _m ( ! simpl] ski motions famili>4 ,9 le>n+ to glissade1 a man has ?ree po9ts ( normal contact :i* he mu/ le>n to control3 8 two feet1 & ! %aft-po9t ( 8 axe4 ,!re is also a f\r? po9t ( possible contact1 ) :i* ,i deal sep>ately "u sitt+ glissades4 ,! head ( ! axe1 except 9 "o v r>e case1 is useless = contact1 & %\ld nev] be br\ght into play4 ,9 fact1 dur+ ! "t ( le>n+1--& to le>n prop]ly w take z long z has to be devot$ to ! beg9n+s ( ski-+1--x is bett] to use only a /ick ) a s+le po9t1 or a ski-/ick4 ,! axe head dur+ ! prelim9>y falls is apt to po9t too ke5 a moral4 ,a c]ta9 s*ool ( icem51 ! devotees ( ! %ort axe1 keep ! axe head always %ea!d 9 its lea!rn cov]4 ,9 glissad+ ! practice has di/9ct advantages3 x pres]ves ! ke5ness ( ! edge1 protects ! climb]1 & is f> w>m] to grasp4 ,^? :o le>n to glissade ) an axe & n a /ick may well copy ! practice4 ,?is sugge/ion applies to le>n+ bo? on sn[ & on glaci]4 ,,on ,,ice ,glissad+ on ice is practically conf9$ to %ort ru%es on glaci]s2 ev5 !re x is g5]ally avoidable1 b its ma/]y adds a delightful possibility ( directness & pace to ! late returns d[n ice falls4 ,no sane man w ev] />t a glissade on ice on a m\nta9 side1 unless ! slope is evid5tly %ort & is se5 to end 9 safe arre/+ sn[1 or 9 ! e>? deposits f\nd on ,himalayan glaci]s4 ,! %e] pace & rude vibration produce helplessness &1 soon1 unconsci\sness on a /eep ice slide ( any great l5g?4 ,control _c be ma9ta9$ = m ?an a brief p]iod ( inevitable accel]ation4 ,(t51 h[ev]1 quick b&s ( ice intrude1 visibly or n1 on a /eep sn[ glissade1 & x is !n important to be able to make ! new adju/m5ts requir$ by ice2 & s avoid be+ ?r[n out ( balance by ! sudd5 alt]ations 9 ! quality ( ! surface fla%+ "u our feet4 ,sid5ote3 ,positions4 ,9 ice-glissad+ ! po9t ( ! axe takes practically all ! weight4 ,x is ess5tially axe rid+4 ,! feet become only props to ! balance4 ,ice is r>ely q smoo?1 &1 if ! weight is at all on ! feet1 ! slighte/ irregul>ity or #8/ick' 9 ! surface at ?is high rate ( spe$ ?r[s ! heels back & ov] ! head4 ,! "r h& grasps ! %aft1 j suffici5tly f> f :]e ! po9t t\*es ! ice to avoid scrap+ ! knuckles4 ,! left h& grips ! head4 ,! m ! left h& =ces ! head up1 & ! great] ! weight t we ?r[ ^u ! "r h& hold+ ! %aft1 ! %>p] is ! brake ^u ! pace1 &1 incid5tally1 ! m prep>$ is our balance aga9/ an accid5tal trip4 ,on h>d ice ! feet _c be us$ to brake2 nor1 except by v gradual movem5ts1 c !y attempt to /e]4 ,_! bus9ess is to c>ry _! small proportion ( ! weight z lightly z possible ov] ! irregul> surface1 &1 l ! front :eel ( a bicycle1 to prev5t a =w>d or sideways fall4 ,on rott5 ice1 if claws are worn1 brak+ ) ! feet is possible by driv+ 9 ! heels2 b su* surfaces are unusual 9 ! ,alps4 ,! knees mu/ be well b5t1 ) ! body b[$ almo/ into a sitt+ position1 s z to keep ! c5tre ( gravity well d[n ^u ! support+ tripod ( legs & axe4 ,! zigzag spr+1 =m$ by ! curves ( knees & body1 absorbs mo/ ( ! j>4 ,! soles re/ flat on ! ice1 ) ! toes po9t+ d[n ! slope4 ,! feet %\ld be kept slightly ap>t1 = ! bett] balance ov] r\ghnesses4 ,to avoid obvi\s lumps !y c be slid m ap>t or br\ght toge!r4 ,if !y are us$ to /e] at all1 !y mu/ bo? be po9t$ sideways 9 ! desir$ direction2 b no attempt c be made to drive 9 ! edges ( ! boot1 z is done on sn[4 ,?is w\ld m]ely result 9 a fall4 ,/e]+1 9 ?is position1 mu/ be left to ! gradual friction ( ! soles incl9$ sideways & d[nw>ds1 &1 9 ! ma91 to ! sw+ ( ! weight on ! axe4 ,on v r\gh ice1 or on ! r\gh icy surfaces f\nd 9 sn[ c\loirs1 :]e we _c make c]ta9 ( keep+ on ! feet if we face squ>ely =w>d1 x is be/ to adopt a sideways position ( ! body1 ! sides ( bo? feet 9 contact ) ! slope1 & "o foot j bel[ & slightly sep>at$ f ! o!r4 ,! di/ance betwe5 ! feet mu/ dep5d ^u ! "* ( ! surface & ! angle ( ! slope4 ,on an easy angle ( r\gh slope1 :]e x is desir$ to g sl[ly & /op at any sudd5 po9t1 ! l[] foot1 ) ! knee only slightly b5t1 c be ?ru/ well ahead1 tak+ some:at m ( ! weight1 & act+ z a %ift+ brake4 ,on /eep1 r\gh ice1 or :]ev] x is desir$ to increase ! pace1 & at ! same "t to protect ! balance1 ! feet1 /ill 9 ! sideways position1 %\ld be kept close toge!r1 :ile ! knees & ?ighs are drawn up into a cr\*+ attitude4 ,! weight1 ( c\rse1 /ill re/s ma9ly on ! axe4 ,on /eep1 r\gh slopes ( sn[ & ice alt]nat+1 :]e ! balance is easily upset by ! *ang+ surface1 ?is squatt+ or cr\*+ sideways position mu/ always be adopt$1 ) ! heels slightly ap>t & br\ght "r up "u ! body1 :i* practically sits ^u !m4 ,! c5tre ( gravity is !n well d[n ^u ! ?ree po9ts ( contact1 :i* are all 9 firm & close relation to "o ano!r1 & ! balance is /eady4 ,ice-glissad+ is possible = ! exp]t1 9 ?is position1 on _m long ice intrusions :]e ord9>y folk h to creep c>efully d[n 9 /eps4 ,= a beg9n]1 ! "u faces ( ! great ice hummocks bel[ ! falls on dry glaci]s give ! be/ practice1 z _! l5g? & angle c be select$4 ,s9ce ne> ! cre/ ^! concave faces are (t5 v]tical or ov]hang+1 e>ly practice %\ld be limit$ to _! l[] curves4 ,z 9 ski-+1 ! />t-(f f ! rim ( an ice slope or f ! cre/ ( an ice wave is ! mo/ difficult mom5t4 ,we _c jump into our glissade z we c ^u sn[1 or at lea/ only on ice ( v mild angles4 ,! "r position is to />t 9 a #8cr\*1' ) ! toes j ov] & ! heels j hold+ ! ice edge2 ! weight is !n ?r[n back ^u ! axe1 ! toes turn d[n & ! legs %oot out4 ,z soon z ! balance 9 motion is secur$1 ! =w>d1 ! sideways position or ! cr\*1 is assum$ accord+ to ! feel ( ! surface & ! angle4 ,on v /eep dry ice1 = ! fir/ body l5g? or s at ! />t ( a slide ov] a v]tical or ov]hang+ cre/1 be x on a glaci] or at ! top ( an ice c\loir1 x is sometimes necess>y1 9 ord] to rema9 9 contact ) ! concave surface at all1 & n to be flung out head =emo/ by ! kick ( ! axe po9t aga9/ ! ice1 to leave ! #8cr\*' ! in/ant ! feet are laun*$1 & to %oot out ! legs to _! full ext5t4 ,! :ole l5g? ( ! body is !n held rigid1 ) ! feet press$ z mu* z possible sideways & flat aga9/ ! ice4 ,9 su* a position !re is consid]able risk ( cutt+ knuckles or o!r surfaces aga9/ ! ice4 ,! position is1 ( c\rse1 only requir$ = a second or s1 z no glissade may be attempt$ :]e ! angle does n ease (f suffici5tly aft] a few feet to all[ ( cont9u+ ! desc5t 9 "o ( ! normal attitudes ( controll$ glissad+4 ,! =tunate w sometimes f9d an admirable surface on ! m easily incl9$ planes ( l[] dry glaci]s1 :]e melt+ & freez+ h foll[$ "o ano!r dur+ ! day4 ,! ice is s slipp]y t x is only possible to walk ) madd5+ dislocations1 & x is g5]ally too level = a long glissade4 ,x is !n (t5 feasible to adopt a ski-+ or skat+ /ride1 & /rike out ) ei!r foot alt]nately4 ,on a good surface & angle "o may f9d oneself travell+ 9 ?is way almo/ z easily z on skates4 ,simil>ly1 on ! wet l[] ends ( aft]noon glaci]s1 if rubb]-sol$ %oes happ5 to h be5 br\ght1 x is wor? :ile putt+ !m on4 ,"o c drift d[n on !m z lightly z on ski4 ,sid5ote3 ,arre/s4 ,if ! balance is once lo/ ^u ice1 & !re is no prospect ( an e>ly arre/ on a s(t] surface l[] d[n1 x is be/ to turn on ! back1 keep ! head & h&s (f ! ice1 & =ce ! po9t ( ! %aft back "u ! arm-pit & into ! ice1 s t ! weight dragg+ on ! %aft may gradually arre/ ! progress4 ,! body mu/ be kept head upw>ds2 ! legs1 if slightly ap>t & rigid1 w help to *eck ! pace by friction & by ! rugosities enc\nt]$ by ! heels4 ,if 9 su* case ! ice slope has be5 badly *os51 & ! fall5 glissad] p]ceives t ! only hope ( avoid+ a fall ov] rock is to /op ! slide at all haz>ds1 ! risk mu/ be tak5 ( turn+ ov] on ! face4 ,! head ( ! axe mu/ !n be gripp$ ) bo? h&s1 s t ! adze-blade re/s j ov] ! "r %\ld]1 & ! pick-po9t is gr\nd into ! ice ) ! :ole weight4 ,x is useless to attempt to =ce 9 ! pick if ! axe is held only by ! %aft1 or at ! /ret* ( ! arms above ! head4 ,! axe at arm's l5g? w be torn f ! h&s ! mom5t ! pick t\*es ! ice4 ,^! two me?ods ( arre/ c also be turn$ to acc\nt 9 *eck+ falls on /eep & h>d sn[1 or sn[ ) a cru/$ or icy surface4 ,,on ,,sn[ ,ev5 m on sn[ d ! positions = glissad+ v>y ) ! angle & consi/5cy ( ! surface4 ,! exp]t glissad] *anges f "o attitude to ano!r1 z ! feel ( 8 feet on ! *ang+ surface sugge/s1 )\t loss ( balance or ev5 a *eck to ! pace4 ,sid5ote3 ,positions4 ,! axe %\ld be grasp$ z = ice-glissad+4 ,! knees %\ld be b5t1 slightly or m accord+ z ! surface is sl[ or fa/1 =m+ a conv5i5t ar* ( balance = ! body4 ,! b5t leg acts z a /rong spr+ to absorb jolts1 & x is m quickly & p[]fully adju/able to ! *ang+ dem&s ( balance1 :5 ! body is 9 rapid motion1 ?an ! /raight leg4 ,to keep ! knees /raight is impracticable on all b p]fectly uni=m #8%[' sn[ slopes4 ,^? :o h at times advis$ x h be5 influ5c$ by "s pictorial ideal :i* _h small reg>d = ! me*anism ( ! body or = ! conditions ( ! glissade 9 action4 ,! body %\ld n be b5t =w>d or cr\*$1 z is done 9 ice-glissad+1 b held upright or incl9$ slightly backw>d1 s z to =m a cont9u\s & concordant arc ) :atev] may be ! curve ( ! leg at ! mom5t4 ,! l[] end ( ?is curve w always be b5t m %>ply at ! flex ( ! knee2 b 9 proportion z ! knee is m or less b5t1 ! graceful incl9ation backw>d f ! hips w v>y correspond+ly4 ,! %\ld]s1 especially t above ! h& on ! %aft1 %\ld be brac$ well back1 & ! head incl9$ a little =w>d1 = bett] sight4 ,! t5d5cy to let ! %\ld]s /oop =w>d & ! body sag d[nw>d into a sitt+ position has to be resi/$ on sn[ surfaces4 ,x is a false position1 t foll[s inevitably on an attempt to keep ! knees /raight2 & x is z bad a beg9n]'s error z ! incl9ation to sit =w>d & n back :5 le>n+ to jump on horseback4 ,! fact t x has be5 sugge/$ z ! ideal attitude1 bo? 9 description & 9 illu/ration1 may h be5 responsible = ! l>ge numb] ( m\nta9e]s :o h nev] become m ?an #8axe rid]s' 9 sn[-glissad+4 ,sagg+ & axe rid+ are necess>y 9 ice-glissad+1 :]e we d n attempt to balance on ! feet1 b dep5d = safety & /e]+ ^u ! axe brake4 ,on sn[ ! good glissad] aims at r$uc+ friction & rid+ by balance4 ,to sag or use ! /raight knee ?r[s u back ^u ! axe = balance & = our /e]+4 ,/raight5$ knees mean ! weight on ! heels & ! toes up2 b if ! weight is m on ! heels ?an on ! toes1 /e]+ ) ! feet is impossible4 ,! feet %\ld be kept close toge!r1 ) ! toes po9t+ d[n ! slope1 s z to r$uce friction & facilitate foot-/e]+4 ,if ! surface = a space gets ici] & r\gh]1 ! feet are all[$ to sep>ate slightly1 s z to secure ! balance on _! wid] base & brake ! pace by ! angle t ! two outw>d-po9t+ toes make ) ! direct l9e ( desc5t4 ,on good sn[ surfaces to draw ! feet sl[ly or %>ply toge!r1 s z to grip up a sn[ wr9kle betwe5 !m1 or to ?ru/ !m ap>t1 ) ! toes slightly turn$ inw>ds1 produces ea* a diff]5t degree ( brake1 or helps to reconfirm our balance1 if we require x4 ,small int]ruptions on ! surface %\ld be all[$ to pass betwe5 ! feet4 ,9 practical glissad+1 9 fact1 ! feet are v r>ely kept long 9 "o position2 !y drift g5tly ab\t1 z balance or ! surface dem&4 ,! decision z to :5 !y %\ld be kept exactly p>allel to "o ano!r1 ) ! weight ev5ly di/ribut$ betwe5 ! two1 or :5 ! "o %\ld travel slightly 9 advance1 c>ry+ ! l>g] %>e ( weight = ! mom5t1 mu/ dep5d ^u ! sn[ surface & angle1 & on ! am\nt ( "w t is be+ done1 9 consequ5ce1 by ! axe4 ,if ! surface is r\ghi% & /eep or h>d1 ! weight w be m1 & = long] p]iods1 ?r[n back ^u ! axe %aft1 & ?is = reasons ( balance4 ,s support$ on ! axe1 !re is n ! same risk on a bad surface ( our be+ sudd5ly pit*$ outw>d1 head =emo/4 ,9 su* case ! feet are be/ kept p>allel & toge!r1 act+ z supports supplem5t>y to ! axe1 z ^u ice4 ,b if ! surface is /raight=w>d 9 angle & quality !re is less ?reat to ! balance1 & our object is to r$uce ! surface friction & increase ! pace4 ,to ?is end all ! weight w be br\ght =w>d (f ! axe & kept 9 balance above ! feet4 ,! axe w only be lightly or occasionally 9 contact ) ! slope4 ,! body w be sail+ d[n upright1 b on a curve ( balance agree+ ) ! b5d ( ! knees4 ,! feet1 9 ?is case1 adopt a position & a motion famili> 9 ski-+4 ,!y rema9 close toge!r1 b "o foot travels slightly 9 advance ( ! o!r1 c>ry+ = ! mom5t ! great] %>e ( ! weight4 ,! o!r foot runs 9 close support4 ,x is br\ght up1 & 9 turn passes into ! lead1 accord+ z ease ( balance1 /e]+1 or ne$ ( re/ = ! employ$ leg sugge/4 ,! balance sways lightly f "o leg to ! o!r z ea* is employ$1 & ! motion1 all[+ = ! diff]5t l5g? ( /roke1 is n unlike ! smoo? /eady runn+ 9 long-di/ance skat+4 ,at any second1 if ! surface dem&s x1 ! weight c be ?r[n back ^u ! axe1 & ! feet are !n br\ght p>allel aga94 ,n[ t ski-+ exp]i5ce is famili>1 x is unnecess>y to expla9 :y glissad+ on "o foot--t is1 on a s+le l9e ( contact1 ) ! o!r foot & axe 9 p>tial support & ready to take _! turn if requir$--is easi]1 quick] & less expos$ to accid5t ?an mov+ on ! two feet p>allel1 ) ! weight di/ribut$ ev5ly betwe5 !m4 ,! in/ance ( ! relative pace & security ( bicycle & tricycle1 al?\gh n q on all f\rs1 gives u a sugge/ive comp>ison4 ,on an obvi\sly good & cont9u\s sn[ slope ! axe brake c be remov$ altoge!r1 & ! axe is !n c>ri$ easily 9 front across ! body1 ready at any mom5t to be %ot back "u ! arm into ! sn[4 ,! body !n sways to ! balance1 above ! slight b5d ( ! knees1 & is practically upright4 ,?is is ! mo/ delightful ( all positions3 !re is no t5sion ^u any ( ! body muscles1 & ! s5sation is t ( a w+$ swoop4 ,to br&i% ! axe at arm's l5g? ov] ! head1 a fa%ion affect$ by p]=m]s ( a !atrical type m famili> 9 illu/rations ?an on ! m\nta9s1 adds no?+ to ! pleasure & dim9i%es ! security4 ,! balance above ! feet is prejudic$1 & ! axe recov]y 9 case ( ne$ is sl[]4 ,sid5ote3 ,/e]+4 ,! /e]+ is done1 z 9 skat+ or ski-+1 fir/ly1 by cant+ ! feet & twi/+ ! toes 9 ! requir$ direction2 & secondly1 by sw++ ! weight ( ! body into ! new position above !m1 ei!r by means ( ! sway ( balance if we are glissad+ free1 or by ! ?ru/ f ! axe po9t if we are axe rid+4 ,= in/ance1 if we wi% to turn to ! "r1 9 ord] to avoid an ob/acle or make a zigzag on a slope too /eep = com=table direct desc5t1 we twi/ ! toes to ! "r1 & at ! same "t cant ! feet 9 ! same direction2 t is1 we press d[n ! "r-h& edge ( bo? boots into ! sn[1 g5tly or h>d accord+ z we wi% to make a %>p or an easy turn4 ,if we wi% to accel]ate ! turn1 we br+ ! axe into use1 press+ back ^u ! po9t1 :i* we ?ru/ into ! sn[ slightly on our "r4 ,simil>ly1 to make a turn to ! left1 we twi/ ! toes & cant ! feet to ! left1 &1 if requir$1 press on ! axe transf]r$ to our left side4 ,by mak+ all ?ree movem5ts en]getically at ! same mom5t x is possible to execute v %>p turns4 ,! /eep] ! slope ! high] ! spe$1 & ! high] ! spe$ ! m acute ! angle ( turn possible4 ,if a glissad] is exp]t en\gh to be able to desc5d /eep slopes 9 balance on 8 feet alone1 )\t ! axe z brake1 & has ma/]$ ! f9] art ( travell+ ^u alt]nat+ feet1 he c /e] 8 turns also )\t ! axe1 & c desc5d on a succession ( %>p zigzags )\t ! small awkw>dness involv$ 9 transf]r+ ! axe f "o side to ! o!r ( 8 body4 ,:5 he wi%es to turn to ! "r out ( a direct desc5t1 he sways 8 balance on to 8 "r foot1 directs & cants x1 & z he turns br+s across 8 less weight$ left foot into l9e aga9 bel[ x4 ,:5 he wi%es to turn back aga9 to ! left out ( a zig to ! "r1 he ?r[s 8 weight on to 8 heels1 z 9 a ski-+ turn1 directs & cants 8 feet to ! left1 sways 8 weight ov] on to ! left foot aga91 & s cont9ues on ! new zag4 ,9 travell+ on ! "o-foot me?od1 %>p turns are made by ?r[+ ! weight on to bo? heels2 gradual turns c be made on ! "o foot4 ,slight *anges ( direction1 n big en\gh to be turns1 are m quickly made by br++ up ! re> & less weight$ foot1 slid+ x 9 front into ! new direction requir$1 & !n sway+ ! weight across on to x4 ,an exp]t c ?us sw+ quickly & safely d[n a slope or c\loir too /eep = direct desc5t1 zigzagg+ f side to side almo/ )\t help f ! axe4 ,8 turns are less crisp ?an ^? ( ski or skates2 b he c desc5d on a sn[ ribbon or 9 a n>r[ c\loir1 :]e only %ort boots c\ld f9d room to travel or turn4 ,ev5 if a glissad] has only accu/om$ himself to desc5d travell+ on 8 two feet p>allel1 ) 8 weight ev5ly di/ribut$ betwe5 !m1 he c /ill make slight *anges ( direction1 )\t help f ! axe1 by slid+ "o foot 9 front ( ! o!r4 ,?is w deflect 8 c\rse correspond+ly 9 ! opposite direction3 t is1 to turn to ! "r1 he br+s =w>d ! left foot2 to turn to ! left1 he advances ! "r4 ,b 8 turns )\t ! axe w nev] be effective or %>p until he has le>n$ to glissade ma9ly on "o foot4 ,! second foot1 = a "o-foot glissad]1 acts z a free auxili>y to indicate ! new direction & to support ! turn+ movem5t1 :ile ! body sw+s 9 easy support f "o foot to ! o!r1 z ! turn sugge/s4 ,sid5ote3 ,jump+4 ,! h&s alone %\ld nev] be us$ z rudd]s4 ,suppos+ we wi% completely & sudd5ly to *ange ! l9e ( desc5t1 because we see "s ob/ruction bel[1 or discov] bett] sn[ f>!r (f1 ?is is be/ done by a half-turn1 & a spr+ on to ! free leg4 ,= in/ance1 to get across to our left we sw+ our free "r foot across u to ! left until x t\*es ! sn[ aga9 at its utmo/ rea*4 ,! weight is !n flung across on to x by means ( ! axe1 or by a rub ) ! outside ( our left arm aga9/ ! sn[4 ,! left leg foll[s 7all )\t *eck+ ! desc5t71 & we desc5d on ! new l9e1 or sw+ ! "r leg aga9 if a second spr+ is ne$$4 ,to make ^! *anges ( l9e1 a sideways jump across1 (f ! "o travell+ foot & alight+ on ! two feet held sideways & slightly ap>t1 is a neat] me?od1 b x requires m practice4 ,jump+1 sideways or d[nw>d1 is z pleasant a ref9em5t 9 glissad+ z x is on ski1 & v g5]ally useful4 ,x is (t5 m conv5i5t to jump int]ruptions1 ( ice blocks1 rock b&s & sn[ humps1 ?an to /e] r\nd !m4 ,a good glissad] jumps (f ei!r foot1 & alights on bo?4 ,ev5 l>ge crevasses c be safely jump$ by a skilful man1 ) a great sav+ ( ! "t usually sp5t 9 circumv5t+ !m4 ,b ?is requires consid]able skill & a discreet eye 9 select+ ! take-(f4 ,! edges ( b]gs*runds are g5]ally hidd5 or rott51 & ! cr\* & spr+ h to be made well ahead ( possible breakages4 ,! glissad] has no h&-made wall to guide him & to dispat* him on 8 jump at ! "r in/ant1 angle & velocity2 & ! angle ( ! slope bel[ has n be5 *os5 to accord ) 8 curve ( desc5t on to x1 & d[n x4 ,if we fall1 aft] a jump or /umble1 ! fir/ ?+1 on a /eep slope1 is to /op any t5d5cy to roll1 :i* is ! %orte/ road to unconsci\sness4 ,! next is to get ! head up4 ,!n1 if we h held on to ! axe1 we get x by ! head & beg9 to brake1 z describ$ above4 ,if ! axe is lo/1 we d ! same ) elb[s & heels1 slid+ on our back2 b nev] ) f+]s & toes1 face d[nw>ds4 ,sid5ote3 ,brakes4 ,!re are two me?ods ( /opp+ or brak+1 ! axe brake & ! foot brake1 :i* are us$ 9 conjunction = purposes ( sudd5 arre/4 ,! axe brake is made by pull+ ! head ( ! axe upw>d ) ! "o h&1 & =c+ ! %aft po9t d[n1 & into ! sn[1 ) ! o!r4 ,! weight ( ! body is ?r[n on to ! l[] arm1 & ! ?ighs are br\ght close aga9/ ! axe %aft4 ,if x is necess>y to make a sudd5 /op on a h>d sn[ surface :]e "o is be+ #8run away )1' ! mo/ p[]ful brake ( all is to br+ ! %aft ( ! axe "u ! "r arm-pit1 grip ! left h& on ! head1 ) ! "r h& close to x1 & turn ! body slightly sideways1 s t ! :ole edge ( ea* boot1 heel & toe1 scrapes aga9/ ! surface4 ,! foot brake is made by turn+ ! toes up & %ov+ ! heels 9 & d[n into ! sn[1 at ! same "t /raight5+ ! legs4 ,if ! surface is too h>d to admit ! heels easily1 or ! pace & h>d surface comb9$ ?reat5 t an attempt to *eck ) ! /raight heels w mean "o or bo? legs be+ torn up und]nea? ! body1 s fl++ u out & (f our balance1 ! feet mu/ be turn$ sideways to ! slope4 ,! heels at ! same in/ant are ?ru/ d[nw>ds1 ! legs are /raight5$1 & ! weight is ?r[n equally ^u ! axe %aft & ^u ! feet4 ,on any surface :]e a glissade is ju/ifiable x is possible to /op ) ^! comb9$ brakes )9 a di/ance ( a few feet1 provid$ t1 z ) a motor-c>1 !y are n jamm$ on s sudd5ly z to upset ! equilibrium & deta* ! po9ts ( contact f ! surface4 ,= g5tle *ecks to pace1 t\*+ at int]vals ) ! axe po9t1 or press+ on "o or bo? heels mom5t>ily1 is suffici5t4 ,sid5ote3 ,sitt+4 ,practically no sn[ slope ( "r consi/5cy & t]m9ation is too /eep to glissade d[n2 b _m incl9e at too l[ an angle1 or are ( too s(t a surface1 to glissade d[n 9 a /&+ position4 ,s long z we are "y & ?\ghtless1 & place ! en?usia/ic memories ( y\?ful toboggan+ be=e ! aft]-discom=t ( wet clo?+1--a y\? :i* 9 ! case ( m\nta9e]s appe>s to ext5d well on into ! sixties1--we hail su* s(t slopes z ! recov]$ opportunity ( recall+ a lo/ ideal2 & we desc5d !m sitt+-wise4 ,= sitt+1 ! me?ods ( guid+ & brak+ ) ! axe & ! feet are mu* ! same z = /&+2 only !y are m clumsy & proportionately less effective1 z ! slope also is less exact+4 ,! axe is held "u ! arm1 9 ! same mann]1 to brake1 & is transf]r$ f side to side to /e]4 ,! foot /e]+ is p]=m$ by ob/ruct+ ) "o heel or ! o!r4 ,= a %>p] turn1 ! legs are lift$ & swung across 9 ! desir$ direction4 ,to avoid roll+ ov] 9 a quick turn l ?is1 ! body leans ov] on ! side t[>ds :i* ! turn is made1 & ! weight is ?r[n inw>d & back ^u ! axe4 ,! :ole l5g? ( ! outside ( ! leg & ?igh contributes to ! /e]+ action1 z an equival5t = ! cant+ ( ! feet 9 a /&+ turn4 ,leg & ?igh ?us supplem5t ! ineffective guidance ( ! heels4 ,! movem5t *ecks ! pace usefully1 = ! sn[ w beg9 to hummock "u ! ?ighs & up "u ! jacket1 :]eas be=e x 0 m]ely p]colat+ ?r\gh ! bree*es4 ,9 desc5d+ direct ! legs are kept toge!r1 & ! body is conv]t$ into z rigid a reproduction ( a torp$o z ! incid5ts ( desc5t p]mit4 ,to accel]ate ! pace ! body c be ?r[n back & held /iff1 :i* takes (f ! brake made by ! curves ( ! back & di/ributes ! weight1 z on a sleigh or ski4 ,?is movem5t adds ! neck to ! o!r pot5tial sn[ orifices4 ,on unwill+ slopes1 punt+ ) ! axe & a swimm+ motion ( ! legs c be resort$ to1 = propulsion2 b ! ef=t is n dignifi$4 ,%oot+1 or #8*ut+1' head-=emo/ has an exub]ant appe>ance1 b does n add mat]ially to ! *ances ( pace4 ,brak+ is done ^u easy slopes by op5+ ! legs1 & all[+ a triangle ( travell+ sn[ to pack betwe5 !m4 ,to brake %>ply1 ! axe po9t is driv5 into ! sn[ "u ! arm1 ! body is ar*$ /iffly upw>d cle> ( ! slope on ! support ( ! axe1 & ! heels are driv5 d[n & 91 close toge!r4 ,= /&+ glissad+1 if ! surface is good1 we g5]ally ea* *oose a l9e ( virg9 sn[4 ,pace w come ( itself1 & is n s important z uni=mity ( surface4 ,b 9 sitt+ glissad+ ! fir/ to desc5d has ! wor/ place4 ,he has to make a cle>] & h>d] track = ! re/4 ,if a tr\gh ( ?is k9d is once =m$1 x w be mo/ poli%$ 9 its exact c5tre2 & m5 are well advis$ to turn slightly ^u "o ?igh & %oot d[n ^u _! longe/ b n>r[e/ available body-surface4 ,a v pleasant me?od ( desc5d+1 z a p>ty1 is to =m a fa%ion ( bob-sleigh1 ea* man sitt+ close beh9d ! man 9 front & hav+ 8 legs held up by him cle> ( ! slope4 ,! mo/ is ?us made ( ! collective weight & ! lea/ ( ! collective body-surface necess>ily 9 contact ) ! sn[4 ,! be/ situation is t[>ds ! re> ( ! human sleigh4 ,! man at ! head w collect mo/ ( ! sn[ pack1 & !re w be only ! usual moi/ p]meations to be enjoy$ by ! tail4 ,! fir/ man desc5d+ on an unkn[n slope aft] fre% sn[1 or on ! occasional sn[ pat* f\nd at l[] levels1 %\ld always make c>eful exam9ation to see t !re are n rock or /ones ne> en\gh to ! surface to inconv5i5ce1 if n injure1 8 desc5t4 ,sitt+ glissad+ is useful n only on sn[ too s(t or too easily incl9$ = /&+1 b also ^u surfaces :]e a cru/ has =m$ ov] s(t sn[1 ?r\gh :i* ! feet break "u any attempt to glissade /&+4 ,on sn[ ( ?is "* bo? /e]+ & /opp+ are ev5 m difficult ?an !y are 9 ord9>y sitt+ glissad+1 s9ce any attempt to drive 9 ! heels sudd5ly may result 9 a head-ov]-heels fl+4 ,on su* a surface x is be/ to lie z flat & /iff z possible1 & avoid mak+ any abrupt local movem5ts4 ,! sitt+ glissade has be5 already m5tion$ z ( use 9 cross+ s*runds ) awkw>d-angl$ or dubitable bridges4 ,ea* man be=e he %oots = ! bridge %\ld make c]ta9 t he leaves en\gh free rope & good s5se beh9d him to all[ him to come to re/ on ! f> side )\t a disruptive or a premature j]k4 ,sid5ote3 ,/one ,te/s4 ,x is always wise1 be=e glissad+ on a slope ( unc]ta9 consi/5cy1 to ?r[ a few l>ge /ones on to ! sn[ to te/ ! surface4 ,!y %\ld be z heavy z possible1 s z to asc]ta9 ! weight at :i* ! sn[ w avalan*e4 ,! practice has ! fur!r advantage1 on a slope ^: t]m9ation we c see1 & :]e1 !re=e1 a slight avalan*e quality 9 ! sn[ ne$ n det] u f glissad+1 ( cle>+ away all ! decidu\s sn[ f at lea/ "o l9e ( desc5t4 ,!re is left a smoo?1 h>d] track :]eon a human be+ c desc5d comp>atively dry4 ,at ! be/1 ! /ones may />t a g5]al avalan*e1 & s leave a safe & clean slope :]e we c *oose our l9e4 ,incid5tally1 ! /one track s]ves to discov] ! pres5ce or abs5ce ( conceal$ /ones or ( rock po9ts uncom=tably ne> ! surface4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,rope4 ,to rema9 rop$ is impossible 9 ice-glissad+1 & is a nuisance 9 sn[-glissad+4 ,! rope %\ld nev] be necess>y :]e !re is any long & com=table glissade 9 safe prospect4 ,pace & real foot-runn+ are impossible on ! rope4 ,its use en=ces axe brak+ & sl[-coa* runn+ at ev5 di/ances1 s t ! rope %all nei!r tight5 ^u ! front man & upset 8 balance nor entangle 9 loose coils ab\t 8 feet4 ,e "o 9 a rop$ p>ty1 h[ev] exp]t1 mu/ be axe brak+1 & we>y+ 8 %9 muscles1 if no m1 9 ! va9 ef=t to keep an ev5 di/ance ov] surfaces ( quickly v>y+ quality & angle4 ,= ! m5 9 ! middle ( a rope1 to be ?us glissad+ is simple we>9ess ( ! fle%4 ,on %ort glissades1 dur+ long climbs1 ! rope may h to be reta9$ to save "t1 b on slopes ( any l5g? x is always wor? :ile to unrope4 ,if ! rope has to be reta9$ on su* slopes = precaution>y reasons1 because ! end ( ! slope is n 9 sight or because !re are beg9n]s tak+ "p1 ! p>ty %\ld rope 9 pairs4 ,two exp]ts c glissade fairly freely on a rope by desc5d+ on adjac5t p>allel l9es ) ! rope loosely across betwe5 !m4 ,!y h only !n to see t x does n cat* on excresc5ces :i* !y !mselves are avoid+4 ,9 ! same *oric fa%ion an exp]t c glissade alone ) a beg9n]1 protect+ him & accommodat+ himself to 8 unev5 desc5t4 ,he foll[s beside or slightly beh9d1 & is at lib]ty to quick5 up1 ov]take1 & ev5 get secure an*orage 9 "t1 if he sees 8 companion beg9n+ to desc5d ! slope 9 o!r fa%ion ?an on 8 feet4 ,9 glissad+ ) a beg9n] on a rope ! pace %\ld nev] be all[$ to become great] ?an "o is absolutely c]ta9 ( be+ able to regulate1 n only = oneself b = "o's companion1 ) pl5ty ( m>g9 = accid5ts4 ,once a man has be5 j]k$ (f 8 balance1 x is f> h>d] = him to /op himself & 8 companion by ! travell+ axe brake1 on a /eep slope1 ?an :5 he is /ation>y & upright ) 8 heels well 94 ,he mu/ !re=e keep ! pace well )9 ! spe$ limits4 ,! high] ref9em5ts ( glissad+1 ! zigzag & ! free sail+ on "o or bo? feet1 are ( c\rse out ( ! "q = m ?an two on ! rope2 & b>ely feasible = !m4 ,sid5ote3 ,"s ,v>iations4 ,!re are a few occasions :]e exceptional v>ieties ( glissad+ may be f\nd ( use4 ,sid5ote3 ,alt]nate ,glissad+4 ,9 desc5d+ sn[ slopes ( d\btful consi/5cy1 or slopes or c\loirs ^: l[] end is conceal$1 & !re=e an object ( suspicion = free glissad+1 an alt]nate slide & an*or me?od c (t5 be adopt$4 ,x is especially good = protect+ beg9n]s :o _c be reli$ ^u to arre/ _! glissade at any giv5 in/ant4 ,! exp]i5c$ man an*ors firmly 9 ! sn[ ) ! rope r\nd 8 driv5 axe4 ,! front man !n glissades d[n until he is arre/$ by ! rope or a call f ! re>4 ,! re> man foll[s1 & glissades ei!r d[n to him or pa/ him1 /opp+ himself 9 ! latt] case1 if he is wise1 be=e ! rope runs out4 ,if he is wise1 because no inexp]i5c$ man c be reli$ ^u to "k :at security ( an*orage is requir$ to resi/ ! j]k ( a man runn+ out a d\ble l5g? ( rope on /eep sn[4 ,! fir/ man !n1 9 turn1 glissades pa/1 & is /opp$ by ! exp]t ) ! rope4 ,! process c be repeat$ until ! bottom ( ! slope is rea*$1 or ! secure t]m9ation ( a fre] glissade is asc]ta9$4 ,! me?od is a good "t-sav]1 especially 9 /eep c\loirs1 b x mu/ be work$ ) all caution4 ,i tri$ x on "o occasion ) a m\nta9e] ( confid5t self-security1 & aft] sail+ pa/ him1 & becom+ c]ta9 t my rope mu/ h run out1 ,i turn$ r\nd1 to see him head-=emo/ aft] me d[n ! slope4 ,he _h be5 twit*$ f 8 /ance )\t s mu* z a p]ceptible *eck to my rope4 ,s9ce !n ,i always1 9 alt]nate glissad+1 turn face inw>d :5 ,i feel ! rope is ne> its end1 & /op myself1--= ! fir/ few #8runs-out' at lea/1 until ,i "k ,i c dep5d on my second4 ,) a beg9n] x is be/ to /op1 z la/ man1 :5 "o rea*es him4 ,) a good second x is en\gh to arrange ) him t ea* %all call out %>ply to ! man glissad+ "s ?ree y>ds or s be=e ! rope runs out1 leav+ him "t to /op himself4 ,sid5ote3 ,face ,inw>d4 ,any man :o wants to get all he c out ( ! opportunities to glissade mu/ be able to travel 9 e reasonable attitude1 & to *ange f "o position to ano!r at any in/ant )\t *eck or loss ( control 9 ! movem5t4 ,! axe is ! transitional support dur+ all movem5ts involv+ sudd5 or m>k$ alt]ation ( balance4 ,z a conv5i5t v>iety x is useful to be able to glissade face inw>d t[>d ! sn[4 ,on slopes ( d\btful t]m9ation1 & 9 c\loirs m especially1 :]e x proves impossible to discov] if !re may n be "s #8cut-(f' bel[1 or :]e ! quality ( ! sn[1 & p]haps ! pres5ce ( ice b5ea? x1 make caution imp]ative1 a m controll$1 wat*ful & re/ful desc5t c be made ) ! face t[>ds ! slope4 ,! axe head is !n gripp$ "u ! arm ) ! pick caught beh9d ! %\ld]4 ,! two h&s are firm on ! %aft 9 front1 ready to %ove ! po9t into ! sn[4 ,! legs are slightly ap>t1 ) ! feet p>allel & ! toes incl9$ upw>d4 ,! desc5t c be /opp$ 9 an in/ant by press+ on ! axe %aft1 & by =c+ ! toes outw>d & d[nw>d1 s t ! inside edges ( ! boots scrape d[nw>d aga9/ ! surface4 ,on r\gh icy surfaces1 9 ord] to all[ u to look r\nd1 & also to prev5t ! toes cat*+ & ?r[+ ! body outw>d1 x is sometimes ev5 saf] to b5d "o leg up1 s t ! flat ( ! "o sole re/s aga9/ ! slope at ab\t ! level ( ! knee ( ! l[] /raight] leg4 ,! body !n lies =w>d ov] ?is b5t leg z on a firm spr+1 ) ! c5tre ( gravity l[ & ! balance secure4 ,! head is fre] to turn & prospect above or bel[4 ,a foot brake ( extra p[] & rapidity c be made by scrap+ ! upp]1 rais$ foot d[nw>d along ! slope ) ! :ole =ce ( ! body--a sort ( /opp+ kick4 ,= hurry+ ! desc5t ( awkw>d c\loirs :]e ! glissade ( %ort /ret*es may h to be /opp$ )9 in*es1 ,i h usually pref]r$ ?is face-inw>d glissade4 ,9 ?is position we n only c /op1 b /e] ) great precision & p[]2 & 9 a v conf9$ space1 z 9 a n>r[ c\loir1 we c side-/ep or side-jump easily4 ,to jump ob/acles or crevasses :5 glissad+ face inw>d1 we mu/ ( c\rse turn r\nd fir/2 b a good glissad] %\ld f9d no difficulty 9 twi/+ r\nd1 especially out ( ! la/ position describ$1 ) ! "o leg rais$1 :i* is 9 itself already a half-turn attitude4 ,! position has ! additional advantage ( all[+ u to wat* companions above2 &1 9 suspici\s c\loirs1 to keep a look out = _! loos5$ /ones or small foll[+ avalan*es4 ,/ones c be dodg$ once !y are se52 & a f9e face-inw>d glissad]1 :5ev] he sees ! small1 wav]+1 pursu+ avalan*e1 looks r\nd & ahead = "s l[] bay ( %elt] 9 ! walls ( ! c\loir1 &1 if ne$ be quick5+ 8 pace1 /e]s out ( its way into safety at ! edge4 ,sid5ote3 ,plung+4 ,9 c\loirs or on slopes fac$ ) s(t /icky sn[1 too s(t or too gradual = a free glissade1 x is (t5 possible to save a long trudge ( desc5t by us+ ! #8plung+' /ep4 ,a few long spr++ /eps1 driv+ ! heels h>d along ! surface1 w />t a small surface sn[ slide1 & ^u ?is we c ride d[n1 until x aga9 packs1 :5 ! plunges are aga9 repeat$4 ,if ! sn[ jo9s 9 ! game too he>tily1 & !re is a risk ( los+ control & ( be+ swept d[n 9 a cumulative avalan*e1 we use ! sw++ cross-/ep to ! edge ( ! wave1 & jump cle>4 ,:5 ! avalan*e has pass$ !re may be a f9e surface left = normal glissad+4 ,on e slope :]e we beg9 to feel t ! travell+ mass ( accompany+ sn[ is gett+ beyond control1 ! glissad] mu/ be ready to sw+-/ep or to jump cle> ( x on "o side or ! o!r4 ,:5 x is pa/1 he has also to look out = ! n infrequ5t *ance ( ! furtive slides :i* w pursue ! fir/4 ,if two m5 are glissad+ on a rope1 ! upp] w be 9 ! be/ position to decide :5 ! mass is gr[+ too big1 & he mu/ give timely w>n+ to 8 companion be=e he jumps cle> himself4 ,sid5ote3 ,on ,claws4 ,9 c\loirs ( a c]ta9 type1 :]e !re is a ?9 cov]+ ( fre% sn[ ov] ice1 or :]e sn[ has p>tially melt$ into ice glaze ov] rock1 ,i h occasionally f\nd light claws a great help to safe glissad+4 ,! angle may be too /eep1 & ! sn[ ^u ice too bad to all[ ( a prospect ( desc5t )\t prolong$1 deep /ep-cutt+ or sl[ ambl+ on our preh5sile claws4 ,a pair ( light claws t "o has no fe> ( blunt+ may !n be f\nd ( great s]vice to save "t & lab\r4 ,glissad+ lightly & sl[ly on ! feet1 side-cr\*+ z ^u ice1 or /ill bett] face inw>d1 ! claws slip d[n ) ! surface sn[4 ,:]e ! sn[ is ?91 !y scrape ?r\gh on to ! ice & ret>d ! pace2 :]e x ?ick5s1 !y c /ill be =c$ ?r\gh by ?r[+ m ( ! weight (f ! axe on to ! feet2 & ! desc5t1 ) ! fitful brake ( ! axe1 rema9s p]fectly controll$4 ,z be=e not$1 claws ( ! long-po9t$ patt]n c be us$ 9 ! same fa%ion on rott5 ice4 ,on h>d1 smoo? ice at high angles1 claws ( ! light type are (t5 saf] ?an nail$ boots4 ,a good position = su* claw-glissad+ is "o ( ^? famili> 9 ski-+4 ,we sit a/ride ( ! axe %aft ) ! po9t aga9/ ! ice4 ,we c !n ?r[ ! weight back ^u ! %aft1 & brake1 :ile we release ! feet to /e]1 or we c let ! weight =w>d on to ! feet & increase ! pace4 ,ei!r or bo? feet c be reliev$ ( ! %>e ( weight if any?+ ?reat5s to cat* !m & upset ! balance4 ,?is axe-rid+ position is occasionally conv5i5t 9 icy c\loirs1 or on fre% sn[1 :]e only an absolutely sl[ & controll$ glissade w\ld be safe4 ,x c also be made use ( on v r\gh surfaces1 on dry glaci]s or practice ice slopes1 )\t ! extra security ( claws & tru/+ to ! boot-nails alone4 ,b on nails alone ! glissade is proportionately less regulat$1 & we are m dep5d5t ^u ! axe = control & brak+4 ,,on ,,o!r ,,gr\nds ,_m surfaces o!r ?an ice or sn[ give u good practice & pleasurable mom5ts4 ,volcanic a% is said to provide ! f9e/ conceivable fly+ foot+4 ,s& ( sea-cliffs or qu>ries1 & ev5 ! mud %oots ( ! ea/-coa/ cliffs1 give excell5t fun2 b ! mo/ common1 & p]haps ! mo/ admirable sub-alp9e surface is a light1 /eep scree slope4 ,sid5ote3 ,on ,scree4 ,our me?od ( desc5d+ ^! %oots is dictat$ by ! size ( ! /ones compos+ !m4 ,:5 !y are ( %ale1 or light en\gh to slide away "u our weight1 we ne$ only /raight5 ! leg1 /iff5 ! ankle1 incl9e ! body slightly =w>d f ! hips1 & />t ) a long leap+ /ride1 =c+ ! heels well d[n & 94 ,small scree1 at a good angle1 w c>ry u on & d[n ( itself4 ,! axe is held 9 ! same way z on sn[1 & is only us$ = balance t\*es4 ,on scree at a l[] angle we %all h to cont9ue ! plung+ /rides1 leap+ f heel to heel & travell+ z f> z possible on ! /ones set mov+ by ea* foot4 ,! /rong] ! leg ! long] may be ! /ride4 ,! mass+ ( ! /ones "u ! foot w /op ea* /ep ) ! s(tness ( a sl[ spr+1 & if we are ?r[n out ( balance by "o too abrupt foot *eck1 we c g5]ally recov] x on ! next /ride4 ,t[>ds ! end ( ! slope ! scree gr[s l>g]1 & :e!r slid+ or plung+1 we h to look out = knee & ankle twi/+4 ,we g cauti\sly1 b driv+ always h>d] ) ! heel1 until ! /ones refuse to yield to ! ?ru/2 & !n we call 9 our loose legs "u control1 & proce$ to /umble or dance d[n ! re/ accord+ to ! p]fection ( our ankles & balance4 ,a man light ( foot & supple ( jo9t c let 8 feet drift1 z x 71 ov] ev5 l>ge roll+ /ones1 lett+ !m adju/ !mselves to ! v>y+ resi/ances )\t *eck+ 8 pace4 ,a man :o judges 8 scree n by its size b by its angle1 its %ape & ! way x sits on ! surface1 c cont9ue 8 glissade (t5 well beyond ! po9t :]e ! less exp]t beg9 to fall or crawl4 ,once ! blocks gr[ too big to be kick$ into h>mless motion1 & ! drift+ feet beg9 to slip ov] !m into ! int]/ices1 ! wise man beg9s to look = o!r %oots to c>ry him f>!r4 ,by us+ ! sw++ cross-/ep describ$ already1 we c make diagonal desc5ts ( slopes on a succession ( connect$ p>allel glissades4 ,by *oos+ a l9e well ahead1 & cross+ f %oot to %oot1 _m hillside desc5ts ( we>y prospect c be *>m$ into a few mom5ts ( /imulat+ rac+4 ,x is well to rememb] t up-runn+ spits ( light scree (t5 conceal !mselves 9 depressions betwe5 ribs ( rock or 9 holl[s betwe5 slopes ( heavi] scree1 especially ne> ! bottom ( ! slopes4 ,! light screes t lie 9 ^! l[] furr[s on hillsides are among ! deepe/ & pleasante/4 ,our zagg+ f furr[ to furr[ w div]t our ?\ghts if n our feet f ! la/ tiresome /eep grass drop4 ,:]e ! l[] spits ( light %illa ?9 out1 g5]ally at _! l[] ends1 x is wise to look out = ! cat* to ! ankle ( rocks or wet e>? or grass1 /ripp$ ( _! scree v>ni% by ! driv+ heel4 ,x is be/ = ea* memb] ( a p>ty to *oose a diff]5t l9e1 o!rwise ! l>g] /ones dislodg$1 (t5 accumulat+ a torr5t1 may surprise a spe$i] =]unn]4 ,simil>ly1 x is saf] to leap sideways occasionally ourselves1 & wait :ile our own att5dant torr5t passes4 ,! angle ( incl9ation at :i* small scree lies is inv>iably ! angle ( dis9cl9ation = big scree4 ,big scree1 :5 we _c avoid x1 is an unqualifi$ worry1 & we worry out ( x z we c4 ,! me?od1 traditionally recomm5d$1 ( sitt+ or /&+ on "o l>ge /one & toboggan+ d[n on x ov] ! o!rs1 w\ld seem to be only successful = di/ances n yet asc]ta9$4 ,sid5ote3 ,9 ,w9t] ,gullies4 ,except 9 ! ,nor?1 :]e w9t] sn[ gives mu* ! same conditions = glissad+ z ! summ] ,alps1 w9t] glissad+ 9 ,brita9 is usually ^u sn[-cov]$ scree or mix$ sn[ & scree4 ,! end ( our glissades 9 ?is case has a special risk3 :]e ! sn[ ?9s & weak5s among ! l>g] blocks1 :i* x yet cont9ues to cov]--to our d[nfall4 ,to glissade ne> em]g+ rocks is risky1 on acc\nt ( ! probable holes & hidd5 pockets 9 ! sn[ r\nd !m4 ,9 gullies alone we f9d sn[ ov] rock4 ,"h !re is ano!r special risk 9 ! rock /eps or pit*es1 :i* may be only p>tially cov]$ ) sn[4 ,! drop is (t5 invisible f above1 & an inexp]i5c$ glissad] may be unable to /op himself 9 "t1 :5 he is close en\gh to recognize a break 9 ! cont9uity ( ! sn[ slope4 ,sometimes !re is a frail lid ( sn[ m deceptive ?an an op5 break2 & ,i h se5 a man %oot ov] a pit* ( ?is sort ?r\gh ! sn[ lid & d[n ! wet rock *annel "u ! l[] sn[4 ,:]e ! rock ( su* pit*es is visible1 we h /ill to look out = ano!r trap4 ,we may c\nt ^u /opp+ z we rea* ! rock2 b ! v end ( ! slope1 :]e ! melt+ sn[ has run d[n & refroz5 ov] rock1 is usually ( h>d] surface1 if n ( ice4 ,h5ce we h to all[ = a sudd5 & surpris+ accel]ation j :]e we int5d$ to sl[ up4 ,no man %\ld />t glissad+ d[n a gully or slope t he does n "k2 or t he _c see ?r\gh\t its :ole l5g?2 or until he is exp]t en\gh to "k :at ! sn[1 z he f9ds x1 w d ) 8 feet4 ,sid5ote3 ,on ,grass & ,hea!r4 ,glissad+ is also possible & pleasant on slopes ( grass1 hea!r or :ortleb]ry gr[?1 if ! angle ( ! hill is /eep & ! conditions "r4 ,"u sn[1 ev5 9 small quantity or half melt$1 any h]bage w s]ve2 b ! dry1 poli%$1 almo/ glassy surface ( grass or %ort gr[?1 produc$ by dr\ght or hot sun1 is almo/ z slipp]y z sn[4 ,on firm cov]+ sn[ ov] hill grass1 ( c\rse a /&+ glissade is indicat$4 ,if ! sn[ is s(t or ?91 s t ! feet w\ld cat* ?r\gh x ^u ! grass or hea!r /ems1 sitt+ is be/4 ,on /eep slopes sitt+ means rapid go+1 :ile !re is any sn[ at all %[+ betwe5 ! /alks4 ,if ! sn[ is m]ely a wet skim1 or if we are glissad+ ^u dry glassy h]bage1 x is bett] = clo!s & com=t to use ! feet4 ,! correct me?od is to sit or squat "r d[n on ! heels4 ,if we h an axe or /ick1 we lean back ^u x1 or pu% ) x1 z balance or our rel5t+ pace sugge/s4 ,if we h no /ick1 we clasp ! h&s r\nd ! knees & %oot d[n 9 a honeypot attitude4 ,at a *eck1 ! legs are %ot out1 & a rak+ action ( ! heels />ts ! slide aga94 ,?is fa%ion ( slid+ cr\*$ ^u ! feet is feasible ^u ne>ly all /eep slopes ( smoo?1 ?ick1 fatigu+ h]bage1 :]e ! walk+ desc5t w\ld be slipp]y & labori\s2 b x mu/ be us$ ) caution4 ,/ones1 roots & hummocks intrude2 & n[h]e is a human be+ m helpless1 once he has lo/ control1 ?an on /eep1 slipp]y grass4 ,if he once />ts to roll1 a brok5 arm or a bad %ak+ may be ! lea/ disagreeable consequ5ce4 ,!re h be5 m s]i\s accid5ts due to slips on grass ?an on all ! sn[ m\nta9s ( ! _w put toge!r4 ,,footnotes3 #ac ,climb4 ,club ,ann41 #aiab4 ,also1 :]e !re is dang] ( fro/-bite to ! feet1 z 9 ! ,himalaya1 ! risk ( a nail$ boot is avoid$ by we>+ claws ov] s(t hide boots or /rong wrapp+s4 ,= ! same reason x is bett] to we> w>m ski-boots1 ) removable claws1 r ?an nail$ boots 9 w9t] m\nta9e]+ 9 ! ,alps1 :]e ! ski-+ alt]nates ) ! climb+ & a s(t boot w\ld be insuffici5t4 #ad ,see 8,equipm5t10 p4 #ic4 #ae ,see 8,rock ,climb+10 p4 #aea4 #af ,see 8,norway10 p4 #edf4 #ag ,see 8,m\nta9e]+ on ,ski10 p4 #dbd4 ,?is *apt] %\ld be consult$ = ! m detail$ /udy ( sn[ ph5om5a requir$ = w9t] & spr+ ski-+4 ,9 8,sn[ ,craft0 ,i h limit$ myself to ! conditions t a climb] may meet ) 9 ! ord9>y alp9e summ] season4 ,,*apt] ,,viii ,,reconnoitr+ ,reconnoitr+ prec$es 9 action ! ex]cise ( m\nta9 craft4 ,b z an art x is ! gold cup 9 ! sack m\? ( a m\nta9e]'s equipm5t4 ,its effective ma/]y mu/ re/ ^u 8 previ\s accumulations ( practical exp]i5ce4 ,x may !re=e1 fitt+ly1 be put 9 la/4 ,9 ! ,alps & ne>] ,european ranges1 maps & guide-books relieve ! m\nta9e] ( almo/ all occasion to apply 8 p[]s ( obs]vation to ! int]pretation ( ! ,se5 or ! recon/ruction ( ! ,unse54 ,! majority ( m5 :o climb 9 ! ,alps or ,brita9 get no practice 9 mak+ ev5 elem5t>y d$uctions f sc5ic details )9 sight2 & a numb] m1 ^: exp]i5ce & obs]vation h be5 suffici5t to enri* !m ) :at !y w\ld call an in/9ctive feel+ ab\t ! mean+ ( topographical details :i* !y c see1 or ab\t ! probabilities ( ^? :i* are out ( _! sight1 h nev]1 = lack ( opportunity1 be5 =c$ to resolve ?is feel+ into precise conclusions4 ,no?+ b actual necessity1 ! ne$ ( provid+ = safe progress or com=t1 w induce mo/ m5 on a holiday to ex]cise or educate _! obs]vation4 ,! loss is consid]able2 n only because a develop$ faculty ( obs]v+1 & ( reason+ f ! obs]vations1 is 9 itself a valuable p]man5t possession1 b because ! neglect involves ! failure to see mu* t is beautiful4 ,if we are accu/om$ to wait until beauty imposes itself ^u ! eye1 z 9 ! end x w1 & almo/ flaunt+ly1 9 l>ge m\nta9 sc5]y1 we %all h already miss$ ! discov]y ( ! relations ( l9e & col\r & mass to :i* ! beautiful effect is due1 & we are fat$ to ov]look mu* t is lovely & mu* t is int]e/+ 9 regions :]e !re is grace & int]e/ 9 ! smalle/ detail1 b :]e detail escapes unp]ceiv$ among ! broad & sali5t features ( famili> magnific5ce4 ,illu/ration3 ,,m\nta9 ,,ar*itecture ,c4 ,f4 ,,meade ,on a m mat]ial plane1 a man :o aspires to lead a p>ty mu/ be able to #8see1' 9 ! s5se 9 :i* an arti/ or natural sci5ti/ #8sees1' & he mu/ be able to make ! necess>y m\nta9e]+ d$uctions f 8 sights4 ,a m\nta9e] :o wi%es to conduct an exp$ition effici5tly 9 unexplor$ ranges mu/ be able to d m3 he mu/ be practis$ 9 ! art ( confirm+ conjecture z to :at is beyond 8 sight f #8signs' )9 view4 ,= an exp]t ( ?is sort x is =tunately suffici5t to indicate :at he c discov] & h[ to set ab\t x2 =tunately1 because #8signs' 9 practice are s modifi$ by place1 climate & season t no rules c\ld be laid d[n )\t a page ( exceptions to prove ea* "o4 ,"o day ( practical demon/ration "u guidance w reveal m ( :at we ought to see & h[ to see x ?an mu* tabulation4 ,we may write ( a #8sn[ sky' & an #8ice sky1' & a m\nta9e] :o _h !m po9t$ out to him w\ld recognize ! diff]5ce2 b we _c ) tru? say 8a sn[ sky is a :iti%-blue1 or %[s z a :ite und]side on a cl\d10 or 8an ice sky is a greyi%-blue1 & reflects 9 a %ade ( grey f a cl\d10 because a diff]5t climate or region might any:]e contradict our col\r def9itions4 ,b ! di/9ction betwe5 ! two w\ld rema9 z a con/ant diff]5ce ( tone "u all id5tical conditions1 & x w\ld be p]ceptible to a tra9$ eye4 ,some:at ! same difficulty int]f]es ) any accurate summ>y ( m elem5t>y signs to be look$ = 9 reconnoitr+1--signs ^: discov]y is1 or %\ld be1 "p ( our daily alp9e r\t9e4 ,e m\nta9e] %\ld "k at a glance1 9 ! "r conditions ( light1 new sn[ f old sn[1 ice f cru/$ sn[ surface1 op5 glaci] f firn or nv4 ,b :o c\ld le>n to recognize ! diff]5ces1 "u cont9ually *ang+ conditions ( light1 f 8 recollections ( a writt5 classification8 ,! sugge/ions "h made mu/ be und]/ood1 !re=e1 only to affirm t betwe5 c]ta9 gr\ps ( surface appe>ances !re are c]ta9 con/ant relative diff]5ces1 ^: pres5ce1 or abs5ce1 c always be asc]ta9$ 9 ! "r wea!r & light4 ,!y are int5d$ to indicate a few l9es ( less obvi\s inve/igation1 :i* ! tra9$ eye c pursue 9 exam9+ aspects & details ( m\nta9s t are visible to ev]ybody b n equally intelligible to ev]ybody2 & fur!r1 to outl9e a prov9ce ( yet m difficult discov]y--! collection ( in=mation z to aspects & details :i* are n ev5 9 sight4 ,x may n[ be assum$ t until a m\nta9e] kn[s some?+ ( 8 craft by actual exp]i5ce1 ! *oice ( a r\te up a peak ne$ n be left to 8 unaid$ attempts at reconnoitr+4 ,elem5t>y m\nta9e]+ in=mation is f> m widely diffus$1 & practical climb+ ability has become almo/ an inh]it$ in/9ct4 ,! me?od adopt$ by ! ,badm9ton on ,m\nta9e]+1 & by v>i\s excell5t manuals 9 imitation ( x1 fir/ syn!siz$ = u a sample peak or climb1 resolv$ ! attribut$ features into _! simple elem5ts aga91 & !n direct$ u1 ) natural confid5ce1 precisely h[ to deal ) !m4 ,a me?od advisable = purposes ( picturesque propag&a 9 e>li]1 d>k] days is ( less s]vice to a climb+ g5]ation ^: acquir$ craft c be m g5]ally tru/$ to "k h[ to attack its peak1 if x c once atta9 to only a small "p ( ! c]ta9ty ab\t ! real "* & ! mom5t>y condition ( di/ant detail :i* ^! illum9at+ /udies c\ld happily assume4 ,! pa? s well prep>$ by our pr$ecessors = ! /ray+ or reluctant feet ( ! pot5tial climb]1 & s ent]ta9+ly bord]$ ) composite examples1 ne$ n be retrodd54 ,guidance 9 reconnoitr+1 to be ( lat] use1 mu/ n[ wait = its opportunity fur!r along ! way1 & be ready to pe/] ! progressive compet5ce & self-assurance ( zeal\s m\nta9e]s ) ! well-mean+ b aggravat+ importunity ( an eld] walk+ companion3 8,c't y see t80 &1 8,:at does x mean80 &1 f9ally1 8,well1 !n1 ,i'll tell y60 ,sn[ & rock & ice1 z a triune elem5t1 alone conc]n u4 ,:at we ne$ to f9d out ab\t !m is _! respective angles1 to "k if we c get up at all2 _! sev]al conditions1 to asc]ta9 if we c d s ) or )\t dang] or difficulty2 & ! degree ( modification :i* _! comb9ation may be introduc+1 9 ord] to decide if we c d s )9 ! appo9t$ "t4 ,= in/ance1 our agreeable op9ion ( ! angle ( a rock rib w c\nt]balance our unfav\rable view ( ! /ate ( a sn[ face1 :i* x relieves2 or our optimi/ic impression ( ! sn[ 9 a c\loir w free u f ! gloom creat$ by our sight ( ! angle & "* ( a rock wall1 :i* x bisects4 ,) a peak z su* we are only conc]n$ 9 s f> z x pres5ts to u a great] or less] mass ( fav\rable or unfav\rable angles & sup]ficial conditions4 ,we take x t our climb+ craft c get u up any m\nta9 by any way visible or invisible4 ,x is = our reconnoitr+ craft1 fir/1 to reject ^? alt]natives :i* are int]rupt$ by ! angle ( ! impossible2 secondly1 to condemn ! l9es :]e x detects surface conditions or direct m5aces :i* w introduce too l>ge an elem5t ( dang]2 ?irdly1 to except ! r\tes :]e x decides t h>% angle & poor condition 9 unrel5t+ succession comb9e to =m too great a volume ( difficulty to be humanly v9cible 9 a s+le exp$ition2 & la/ly1 if no agreeable or int]e/+ rema9d] be left ov]1 to use its utmo/ skill to det]m9e :e!r "s unse5 aspect may n reveal suffici5t ( its "* to enc\rage a hope t x w (f] a m helpful l9e ( attack4 ,! sum ( ! results ( ^! inve/igations w ( c\rse add up diff]5tly ) e peak1 & any discussion ( x 9 ! ab/ract c\ld only be hypo!tical4 ,! decision z to :e!r ?is sum 9 any concrete case repres5ts a feasible or ju/ifiable m\nta9e]+ attempt mu/ take into fur!r acc\nt ! /r5g? ( ! p>ty propos+ to make x1 & mu/ be !re=e1 = u1 equally hypo!tical4 ,all t ! gramm> ( reconnoitr+ c usefully def9e are ! l9es :i* inve/igation %\ld foll[ 9 ord] to secure exact in=mation ab\t ! elem5ts :i* are ! mat]ial = our calculations1 & !re=e ! *ief factors 9 our decisions4 ,sn[1 rock & ice are ^! elem5ts2 & _! /ate1 angle & influ5ce ^u ea* o!r 9 c]ta9 comb9ations =m ! only matt] t ne$ conc]n our exam9ation on ! spot1--or "h4 ,,?+s ,,se5 ,to discov] :e!r a di/ant slope is sn[ or ice1 if ! "* ( ! surface is n app>5t at once1 or d$ucible f its position1 aspect or angle1 we mu/ wait = sun or /rong daylight4 ,sid5ote3 ,sn[ ,surface ,condition4 ,ice surfaces--t is1 ! smoo? ice surfaces f\nd 9 ! ,alps--reflect light z an ev51 /eely glimm]1 l elongat$ pools ( wat]4 ,black ice1 n s (t5 f\nd 9 ! ,alps1 has a diff]5t quality 9 reflection4 ,granul> ice is di/+ui%able by its reflection ( light 9 facets or prisms4 ,x w be not$ t ^! t5d to increase 9 size z our inspection desc5ds ! l5g? ( a glacial slope4 ,! honeycomb$ ice f\nd 9 tropical ranges is q di/9ct 9 "*2 x c be recogniz$ f a di/ance1 & 9 a photograph1 by its surface =ms4 ,sn[ surfaces %[ pla9 :ite or grey 9 comp>ison4 ,an ice cru/ ^u sn[ has an appe>ance mu* l t ( ice1 b ! reflect$ light is #8pockl$' & unev54 ,new sn[1 :i* is be/ left alone1 has a brilliant fre% surface4 ,se5 ev5 f great di/ances1 & especially ^u rock1 x %[s a filmy1 gossam]1 veil-l quality4 ,?is endures until ! a]ation has escap$ & ! fea!ry surfaces h subsid$ into h>d] cont\rs4 ,old p[d]y sn[1 z contra/$ ) new sn[1 has a grey] t9t :5 se5 f a di/ance1 p>ticul>ly if n se5 9 direct sunlight4 ,old wet sn[1 labori\s to cross1 & decidu\s accord+ to its angle1 %[s a blui%1 lum9\s surface light1 especially 9 its depressions4 ,x is (t5 transect$ by visible l9es ( /ra9 or cleavage4 ,a ?aw+ sn[ surface1 se5 f ne>1 is dull & dr5*$ look+1 or pitt$ ) small holes4 ,surface h>d-cru/s1 or plates1 produc$ alike by w9d & sun1 :i* af=d pleasant go+ b possess ! avalan*e pot5tiality if ! angle is /eep & _! atta*m5t to ! surface bel[ is slight1 g5]ally m>k !mselves (f f ! surr\nd+ sn[ slopes by a l[]1 dull] tone2 sometimes !y are t+$ ) a yell[ %ade4 ,! plates v>y 9 ?ickness1 deep5+ t[>ds ! middle1 & !y c (t5 be recogniz$ by _! edges1 :i* run out on ! neighb\r+ sn[ 9 d>k] wavelets1 sometimes ) eyebr[-m>k+s r\nd _! curves4 ,old h>d sn[1 ( deep atta*m5t & s\nd progress1 lies 9 alt]nat+ wave & holl[ ( diff]5t tones ( light & %ade1 :]e ! sun has be5 at "w on ! surface4 ,x is (t5 du/-speckl$1 or %[s blui% f+]-pr9ts4 ,granulat$ sn[1 9 /rong light1 may %[ bright or prismatic reflections f its facets1 simil> to1 b easily di/+ui%able f1 granul> ice prisms4 ,z confirmation1 or correction1 ( :at di/ant obs]vation may h reveal$ ab\t ! "* ( ice or sn[ surfaces1 g5]al consid]ations mu/ also be tak5 into acc\nt3 ! rec5cy ( ! sn[fall1 ! subsequ5t wea!r1 etc4 ,!re is also ! f9al te/ ( t\*1 :i* is made on ! spot1 be=e any sn[ slope is trav]s$4 ,! *ange 9 ! condition ( ! sn[1 :i* may be produc$ by a day ( sun be=e we c return d[n ! slope1 mu/ n be left out ( ! calculation4 ,_m slopes ^: surface may be adjudg$ & f\nd safe = passage 9 ! e>ly morn+ _c be tru/$ by nightfall4 ,sid5ote3 ,angle on ,sn[4 ,x is ess5tial to be able to judge ( ! incl9ation ( a slope2 = "s h>mless conditions may become dang]\s if ! sn[ is ly+ at above a c]ta9 angle4 ,new sn[1 = in/ance1 has be5 kn[n to slide at z l[ an angle z tw5ty degrees4 ,h>d old sn[1 melt$ & refroz51 may be support$ 9 small pat*es1 & rema9 reliable1 at z high an angle z sixty degrees4 ,! p[] to e/imate ! angle ( a slope by ! eye only comes ) practice4 ,mo/ slopes look precipit\s 9 face4 ,b a m\nta9e] :o has tra9$ 8 eye by fir/ go+ r\nd to see a numb] ( su* slopes 9 pr(ile1 & by !n return+ to see !m 9 face1 has le>n$ :at he mu/ d$uct f an app>5t angle4 ,he is !n qualifi$ to make a tru] e/imate ( ! real angle ( slopes :i* he may be able to exam9e 9 face alone4 ,sn[ _c lie at any?+ l ! angle at :i* x (t5 appe>s to lie :5 se5 9 face4 ,f ! pres5ce ( sn[1 9 fact1 mu* c be argu$ z to ! g5]ally mild angle ( ! m\nta9 face on :i* x lies4 ,except 9 n>r[ c\loirs1 :]e x is support$ by ! walls1 sn[ does n lie p]man5tly above or ev5 up to an angle ( fifty degrees4 ,mo/ big sn[ slopes are consid]ably less4 ,! broad] ! face on :i* x lies1 usually ! less ! real angle ( ! sn[4 ,! fact t a big sn[ peak pres5ts a cont9u\s slope ( sn[ to its summit is evid5ce t ! mean angle ( ! asc5t is n great1 o!rwise ! ev5 accumulation c\ld n h proce$$4 ,9 prospect+ a new m\nta91 !re=e1 h[ev] tempt+ its rock face or ridge may be to a mod]n climb]1 its sn[ side1 if x has "o1 may be assum$ to (f] ! incl9ation ( easi] asc5t4 ,& ?is m p>ticul>ly if ! sn[ slopes face t[>ds ! s\?1 :]e ! sn[ w\ld naturally adh]e lea/ to ! face4 ,int]ruptions to climb+ on su* sn[ faces1 :e!r z /eep] slopes ( sn[ or z ice walls 7su* z x is well to note be=eh&71 are at once app>5t f _! diff]5t %ad+ if ! sn[ slopes are inspect$ :5 ! sun is ov]head4 ,! incl9ation ( a hang+ slope ( sn[ always appe>s /ill m exagg]at$ z se5 f 9 front if x lies on ! face ( :at is ma9ly a rock peak4 ,we h 9 su* case to discov] if ! sn[ is ly+ on ice1 or only =ms a coat+ to ! rock4 ,if x is on ice1 ! l[] edge ( ! slopes1 :]e ! sn[ runs out on to ! rock1 w g5]ally betray a rim or brok5 wall ( ice4 ,to judge ( ! quality ( su* a sn[ surface1 & ( ! /r5g? ( its atta*m5t to its ice or rock sub-surface1 ! slopes bel[ x mu/ be exam9$1 & sn[1 /one or wat] furr[s look$ =4 ,by ! crumpl$ or ! clean appe>ance ( ! edges ( ! slope itself1 :]e x t\*es ! rock walls on ei!r side ( its desc5d+ fan1 mu* c be le>n$ ( its pa/ transmutations & pres5t condition4 ,long or %ort spits ( light] sn[1 runn+ up aga9/ d>k] sn[ or ice1 are ! ret5tions ( lat] falls1 & are indications ( unev5 angles ( surface4 ,!y betray ! pres5ce ( bulges or ribs bel[1 &1 besides _! promise ( easi] progress on slopes :]e ! g5]al surface may be froz5 h>d or ov]-/eep1 !y give u by _! contra/ a fur!r basis = our e/imate ( ! actual incl9ation4 ,! pres5ce1 ! %ape1 & ! numb] ( cleavages or crevasses 9 a slope ( ice or sn[ are a fur!r guide to our e/imate4 ,a c]ta9 type ( crevasse is only f\nd on slopes ly+ at an angle ( ab\t =ty-five degrees4 ,we may get additional evid5ce1 9 cases ( d\bt1 by wait+ = ! sun to ?r[ ! %ad[ ( ano!r peak or %\ld] ^u ! slope4 ,:5 ! sun & ! int]ruption are locat$1 ! di/ortion ( ! reflection w all[ ( an approximate e/imate ( ! angle ( ! sn[ slope4 ,faces or ridges ( m+l$ rock & sn[1 & surfaces int]rupt$ by ! intrusion ( any detail1 be x only ( a %ad[ or t9t1 are always easi] = ! exp]i5c$ eye to e/imate1 9 angle & "*4 ,:]e we h rock & sn[ or light & %ad[ 9 contra/1 practice 9 ! read+ ( sn[ & ice surfaces1 & 9 ! rules t gov]n _! angles ( incl9ation & atta*m5t1 & practice 9 ! int]pretation ( ! details ( rock /ructure1 become mutually & com=tably corrective4 ,sid5ote3 ,sn[ ,cornices4 ,cornices =m aga9/ ! w9d1 n ) x4 ,! contr>y is sometimes /at$2 b ! error is possibly due to ! fact t irregul>ities 9 ! configuration ( a ridge (t5 produce back eddies 9 a cross-w9d4 ,if ! prevail+ w9d is sn[-be>+1 & across1 a sn[-be>+ back swirl may build a small cornice on ! %elt]$ side ( a ridge4 ,su* a small cornice w\ld appe> to h be5 =m$ ) ! prevail+ w9d3 actually x w\ld h gr[n aga9/ its return eddy4 ,a w9d bl[+ along 7n across7 a s]rat$ ridge may simil>ly produce v small cornices fac+ ei!r way on ! ridge1 & app>5tly at "r angles to ! prevail+ curr5t1 ow+ to "s t[] or curve on "o side or ! o!r hav+ creat$ an inw>d & upw>d cross-eddy1 & a %elt] f ! ma9-curr5t 9 :i* ! sn[-lad5 eddy c "w4 ,l>ge cornices fac+ ei!r way on ! same ridge1 & ! d\ble cornices1 are produc$ by a %ift 9 a sn[-be>+ cross-w9d to ! directly opposite qu>t]4 ,if we f9d ourselves on a cornic$ ridge :5 a /rong w9d1 & especially a /rong w9d f a w>m qu>t] or ) ,fhn 9 x1 is bl[+ aga9/ ! back ( big cornices1 i4e4 f ! opposite direction to t f :i* ! sn[-be>+ w9d 0 bl[+ :i* =m$ ! cornices1 we h to be ev5 m c>eful1 if t be possible1 9 deal+ ) !m1 z su* a w9d w loos5 _! atta*m5t & magnify ! sudd5ness & ! size ( _! collapse4 ,a cornice w always =m m easily on ! summit ( a %e] or abrupt wall1 :i* creates a /rong upw>d eddy 9 a w9d bl[+ aga9/ x1 ?an ^u a m gradual or sn[-r\nd$ incl9ation :i* (f]s less resi/ance to ! curr5t & less #8cat*' to its sn[ burd54 ,= ?is reason1 ^u a summit or a ridge :i* has1 z s (t5 is ! case1 "o m gradual sn[ side & "o rock side inevitably /eep]1 we mu/ be prep>$ to f9d cornices ov]hang+ ! rock face1 l>g] if produc$ by a w9d-%ift1 less] if by a back eddy1 ev5 ?\gh ! prevail+ w9d has bl[n regul>ly ^u ! opposite sn[y face1 & %\ld h reliev$ u ( ! necessity ( caution by its failure to develop cornices on t side4 ,9 g5]al1 !re=e1 ! direction ( ! prevail+ w9d c give u no c]ta9 guidance z to :e!r or n to expect ! exi/5ce ( cornices4 ,if a sn[-be>+ w9d has bl[n aga9/ ! visible side ( our ridge or summit1 we %all see !m4 ,if ^u ! invisible side1 we mu/ assume _! pres5ce until we c disprove x4 ,b a w9d-%ift or v>iable curr5t may always contradict our calculations4 ,a cornice is v quickly built4 ,if we h n be5 foll[+ ! p]=mances ( ! prevail+ w9d1 or if we mi/ru/ its port5t 9 any case1 we h to rely ^u visual evid5ces :5 we are prospect+ ! approa* to any sn[ summit or ! trav]se ( any sn[-cr[n$ ridge4 ,9 ! case ( a s+le summit x is less tr\ble to assume ! pres5ce ( a cornice1 until we fail to f9d x4 ,9 ! case ( a cont9u\s ridge x may save u mu* tribulation to asc]ta9 its condition 9 ?is respect be=e we />t out = a long day ^u x4 ,if !re are cornices1 & !y project t[>ds u1 !y w at once be recognizable2 if away1 x is n always easy to make c]ta91 )\t gett+ a sight ( "s "p ( ! ridge 9 pr(ile4 ,_! detection at "o po9t ( a ridge w dictate ! necessity ( precaution along ! re/4 ,a telescopic exam9ation c (t5 discov] ! ?9 d>k l9e ( junction or /ra91 runn+ p>allel to ! cre/ 9 ! sn[ on ! ne> side1 :]e ! projection ( a cornice t[>ds ! f> side />ts its incl9ation4 7,9 m consid]able sn[ ranges1 su* z ! ,&es1 ?is crack has1 ,i am told1 on occasion be5 prov$ to be due to a longitud9al crevasse on ! ridge4 ,9 ! ,alps1 h[ev]1 ,i "k ( no case ( ?is hav+ be5 obs]v$47 ,an alt]native & r>] indication w be ! discov]y ( a b& ( %ad[ or dull] t9t1 se5 9 ! "r light1 runn+ along ! sn[ wall j bel[ "s "p ( ! cre/4 ,?is w be due to a relative /eep5+ ( ! sn[ wall1 sometimes ev5 tak+ ! =m ( a concavity1 :]e ! back ( a high1 /eep cornice1 fac+ t[>ds ! f> side1 hummocks up (f its support+ ridge4 ,! appe>ance ,i believe to be occasion$ by a fall or a %ift 9 ! prevail+ w9d1--a fall p]mitt+ ! sn[ to accumulate ^u ! head ( ! cornice & =m a sort ( bulb\s :ale-back ov] x1 or a %ift ( w9d to ! ne> side beg9n+ a projection :i* may ultimately gr[ into a #8d\ble' cornice1 ) ! high] ( ! two fac+ t[>ds u4 ,fail+ ei!r ( ^! signs1 any two project+ po9ts ( rock or sn[1 ne> toge!r on ! suspect$ ridge1 %\ld be exam9$4 ,if ! connect+ l9e ( sn[ betwe5 !m %[s %>p & cont9u\s aga9/ ! sky1 & asc5ds at its ei!r end 9 a cont9u\s s+le curve to ! po9ts select$1 ! cornice on ! f> side1 if any1 w be slight & local4 ,if1 h[ev]1 ! sn[ rim seems to m]ge indef9itely on ! skyl9e1 & its curve asc5ds to ! po9ts at ei!r end 9 a v>iable arc ( diff]5t c5tres1 s t we seem to see1 z x 71 r\nd ! edge ( a fold :]e ! sn[-curve hangs to ! rock po9ts1 a cornice is indicat$4 ,if ! bread? ( ! po9ts or t[]s is suffici5tly asc]ta9able to enable u to e/imate ! av]age ?ickness ( ! connect+ rock ridge hidd5 bel[ ! sn[ betwe5 !m 7z x usually is unless ! t[]s are se5 absolutely flat 9 face71 !n ! look1 almo/ a reflection1 9 ! sky imm$iately above ! sn[ curve1 & ! "* ( ! sn[ curve :]e x wav]s ov] aga9/ ! sky1 w indicate to an exp]t eye :e!r ! cornice is l>ge or small4 ,:]e1 aga91 suffici5t rock po9ts project+ f a sn[ ridge are visible1 z we see x 9 face1 to sugge/ :at mu/ be ! actual l9e ( ! sn[-cov]$ rock connect+ !m1 any wayw>d sweep away f u 9 ! visible l9e ( ! sn[ betwe5 !m is an indication t ! sn[ rim1 :]e ! skyl9e ?us unacc\ntably retreats f ! eye1 is sup]9t5d+ a cornice on ! f> side4 ,! pres5ce ( a d\ble cornice--! fatal cornices t face two ways1 "o built up above ! o!r--is n difficult to e/abli%4 ,a b& ( %ad[ or l[ light on ! ne> side ( a sn[ cre/1 bel[ a b& ( high] light1 means a l[] cornice fac+ t[>ds u "u an upp] cornice curv+ away4 ,a b& ( m>k$ly high] light1 bel[ a b& ( %ad[ or obvi\s concavity1 means an upp] cornice fac+ t[>ds u above a l[] cornice fac+ away4 ,= all su* obs]vations on sn[1 :i* f9d _! opportunity 9 ! relative positions ( light & %ad[1 x is app>5t t a "t mu/ be *os5 :5 ! sun %9es f ! "r qu>t]4 ,_! accuracy dep5ds ^u _! be+ cont9u$ ov] a "t suffici5t = ! sun to travel pa/1 & s indicate to u dim5sion1 by ! *ange 91 or ! disappe>ance (1 ! %ad[s ca/4 ,sid5ote3 ,w9d & ,sn[ ,signs4 ,w9d is n #8se51' b its imm$iate effects ^u sn[ are1 m especially on high ridges1 cornic$ or o!rwise4 ,! quality & quantity ( ! surface sn[ on a ridge1 :i* x is important to "k be=eh&1 c be discov]$ 9 times ( w9d f ! am\nt & direction ( ! sn[ p>ticles1 :i* are se5 to be bl[+ (f ! ridge1 & appe> z a film or puff ( vap\r ^u ! sky j above4 ,! abs5ce ( any halo to ! ridge1 9 spite ( ! manife/ action ( w9d ^u adjac5t cl\ds1 is equally valuable evid5ce ( ! /able quality ( ! sn[4 ,! direction & =ce ( ! w9d w (t5 sugge/ ! side ( ! ridge to :i* we %all pref] to limit our passage on ! morr[4 ,on ! w9dy side1 if ! ridge be sn[-cov]$1 accord+ to ! qu>t] & "* ( ! w9d1 ! sn[ w be cru/$ or h>d1 or we may h to enc\nt] a b>e %eet ( ice4 ,if x be rock1 aga9 accord+ to ! w9d1 we %all f9d ! holds ei!r cle>$ or ice glaz$ 9 ! morn+4 ,on ! side %elt]$ f ! w9d1 on a high expos$ ridge ! sn[ %\ld be j ( good quality4 ,b ev5 on su* ridges x may be spongy & cantank]\s if ! w9d has _h ,fhn 9 x4 ,9 a bad season1 or aft] a /orm ( #8dry' sn[1 x is wor? :ile exam9+ high ridges t h be5 expos$ to ! w9d1 on ! *ance t !y may n h be5 clos$ by sn[ = ! usual ?ree days1 l o!r peaks4 ,a fri5d & ,i ow$ our own la/ great climb to hav+ obs]v$ t ! ,zmutt ridge ( ! ,matt]horn _h be5 bl[n black & bravely sn[-cle> by ! same /orm t %eet$ all ! o!r ridges & summits ( ,z]matt 9 :ite1 untimely m\rn+4 ,ap>t f ! indirect evid5ces x br+s1 w9d1 ke5 or w>m1 gu/y or cont9u\s1 has its direct be>+ ^u ! com=t1 ! safety & ev5 ! possibility ( our climb+4 ,( its effects on sn[ surface1 on rock falls & ^u morale ,i h writt5 else:]e4 ,sid5ote3 ,ice4 ,ice %eets on sn[ peaks are locat$ f a di/ance by _! reflect$ light2 b x is well to memorize or sket* _! position & ext5t be=eh&1 especially if we expect to h to cross !m ^u our desc5t1 s9ce !y w be usually invisible f above4 ,if !re is prospect ( our glissad+1 ! exact positions ( int]ruptions1 ice %ields1 bosses1 etc41 mu/ be kn[n 9 advance4 ,ice ^u rock is app>5t1 ei!r z a grey-blue1 bottle-glass bord]+ to ! /ippl+ & ne/l+ ( old sn[1 or 9 ! refroz5 fe/oons ( new ice1 exquisite & evil1 t complete ! ,go?ic "* ( granite p9nacles4 ,lazy1 ma9 glaci]s reveal !mselves frankly4 ,! solution ( _! complexity is ! bus9ess ( ice craft2 b di/ant inspection is conc]n$ to discov] ! easie/ l9e ( asc5t or desc5t1 if ! glaci] is to =m "p ( ! exp$ition4 ,! mo/ difficult hang+ glaci]s--t is1 ^? ) ! l>ge/ sy/ems ( crevasses--w be z a rule ! mo/ /eeply incl9$4 ,!y w be !re=e ! easie/ to prospect1 ev5 9 detail1 z se5 9 face f f> (f4 ,v few hang+ glaci]s desc5d ev5ly or /raight4 ,ei!r side or ! c5tre w be mov+ ! fa/]1 & receiv+ ! full] re9=cem5t4 ,! l9e ( ! great crevasses w slant upw>d or across1 f "o side to ! o!r1 or f bo? sides to ! c5tre4 ,& along ! edges :]e ! l9es ( v>y+ pace & pressure adjo9 & desc5d 9 conflict w be f\nd1 if !re are no abrupt ice falls due to unev5 b$d+1 ! lea/ int]rupt$ r\te4 ,contr>y pressures (t5 t5d to squeeze up ! ends ( successive cross-l9es ( crevasses1 creat+ a tortu\s b consecutive eddy ( passage4 ,?\gh ! crevasses may /ill exi/1 z walls1 sracs1 etc41 !y w be m compress$ & negotiable on ?is l9e4 ,frequ5tly ! cleavages w "h survive only z p>tial splits1 & across & d[n ! edges ( ! unsev]$ spl9t]s or flakes a cont9u\s desc5t w be possible4 ,b climb]s may skirt r\nd ! mazes ( glaci] causation1 if !y h b eyes = ! visible surface clues4 ,x is en\gh = !m to note f af> & rememb] by m>g9al m>ks :]e ! be/ l9e ( trav]se f side to side1 or f side to c5tre1 %\ld be />t$1 9 ord] to keep or recov] ! mobile ?or\ghf>e4 ,on l>ge glaci]s ?is is (t5 v difficult to r$iscov] once we are on ! ice1 :5 our view is re/rict$ by its irregul>ities ( surface4 ,simil>ly1 to enable u to get on or (f any glaci]1 we %\ld note be=eh& ! position ( conv5i5t side-bays1 :]e ! ice runs out on to ! rock 9 smoo!r1 sp5t waves4 ,sid5ote3 ,c\loirs4 ,ev5 z ! passage ( c\loirs might be consid]$ z belong+ to sn[ & ice craft or to rock craft1 s also _! consid]ation is transitional to rock reconnoitr+4 ,on l>ge m\nta9s ! important ?+ to "k ab\t a c\loir be=eh&1 if we int5d to use x1 is :e!r x is fill$ ) ice or ) sn[1 & :e!r x is subject to /one fall4 ,to in=mation on ! fir/ po9t1 ! /udy ( ! angle ( ! c\loir is ! fir/ help4 ,a /eep angle g5]ally implies t ! l9+ w be ice & n sn[4 ,b z sn[1 support$ by reta9+ rock1 may rema9 at a v high angle1 we look to see if !re are any furr[s 9 ! :ite surface4 ,if !re are furr[s & !y are 9 ice1 !y w %[ u ice reflections 9 sunlight4 ,if !re are no ice reflections & !y are !re=e 9 sn[1 or if !y are only ice-back$ & !re=e 9 sn[-cov]$ ice1 ! dep? ( ! furr[s w tell u :at dep? ( sn[ we may expect ^u ! ice4 ,if !re are no furr[s1 ! edges ( ! suppos$ sn[ mu/ be inspect$ = fur!r in=mation4 ,:]e ! sn[ runs out on to ! rock at ! side 9 ice webs1 ! surface tone w appe> ( diff]5t qualities if x be sn[ on ice1 or if x be ice ?r\gh\t4 ,& aft] all our exam9ation1 we may be agreeably surpris$ to be able to asc5d on h>d sn[ 9 ! e>ly h\rs :]e we _h calculat$ f ! angle t we %\ld be hack+ 9 sn[-ice2 or z disagreeably disappo9t$ to f9d sn[ ( avalan*e quality1 on a late return or aft] w>m w9d1 :]e we _h locat$ sn[ ( ! be/ be>+ v>iety dur+ a morn+ inspection4 ,! base ( ! c\loir %\ld be inspect$ = traces ( previ\s sn[ avalan*es1 & = ! "* ( its b]gs*rund4 ,we see if we c :e!r ! summit ( ! c\loir is comm&$ by glaci] or slope likely to use x = ! dis*>ge ( sn[ or /ones4 ,if s1 we note dur+ :at h\rs ! pres5ce ( sun w increase ! risk1 & :5 %ade to dim9i% x may be look$ =4 ,9 a big c\loir we m>k d[n isl&s ( rock :i*1 9 case we are deta9$ 9 ! recesses until /one fall "t1 w provide u ) scre5s bel[ :i* to /e] our l9e4 ,we /udy ! lie ( ! /rata & ! conta9+ walls = possible exits f ! c\loir4 ,on big peaks ! top ( a c\loir (t5 op5s ^u an amphi!atre ( slabs1 too ?9ly ice coat$ = /eps4 ,x is !n important to m>k d[n a l9e = escape 9 "t4 ,if ! base ( ! c\loir select$ c be se51 ! pres5ce !re ( fall5 /ones is evid5ce t !y h fall52 b _! abs5ce !re is n conclusive t !y h n4 ,!y may h be5 swall[$ by ! b]gs*rund1 disappe>$ into "s crevasse1 or lodg$ 9 s(t conceal+ sn[4 ,= ?is end we mu/ exam9e ! edges ( ! s*rund & ( any cleavages = traces1 & ! surface ( ! l[] sn[ = pockl+4 ,if !re are *annels worn 9 ! sn[ or ice at ! base or back ( ! c\loir1 we %all get fur!r evid5ce t some?+ is accu/om$ to fall4 ,^! *annels may h be5 made by /ones1 by ice tra% or by wat]4 ,9 sun%9e ! diff]5ce is di/+ui%able4 ,if ! runnels are #8silv]-back$' 9 sunlight1 & !re are no /ones app>5t1 !y h be5 made by wat] & are h>mless4 ,if ! c\loir to be visit$ desc5ds on to a visible glaci]1 b is itself invisible1 ! pres5ce1 abs5ce or sc>city ( fall5 /ones discov]able at ! bottom end ( ! glaci]1 subject always to ! possibility ( ! consumption by rift or crevasse1 w demon/rate ! c\loir1 or c\loirs1 comm&+ ! visible glaci] to be proportionately infect$ )1 free f1 or only 9 "s cases liable to1 ! fall+ sickness4 ,sid5ote3 ,rock4 ,9 prospect+ rock r\tes we h m to help u2 = rock1 unlike sn[1 does n *ange its sk91 & :5 x hides itself1 "u ice or sn[ or wat] or glaze1 ! *ange f ! black ,e?iopian is obvi\s & calculable4 ,we h also prelim9>y in=mation1 if n 9 books yet 9 ! outl9es ( ! m\nta9s !mselves1 z to :at is ! "* ( ! p>ticul> rock be=e u4 ,e climb]1 if he c assume ! pres5ce ( lime/one or granite or dolomite1 s&/one1 trap1 *alk1 or a few o!r ( ! elem5t>y & lay classifications1 has a cle> picture 9 8 own m9d ( ! k9d ( climb+ & ( rock holds t he may expect4 ,sid5ote3 ,faces4 ,! slopes ( ! hills w tell him 9 g5]al2 good glasses w tell him m ( 8 p>ticul> r\te or ( local modifications 9 ! *>act]i/ics3--su* z h[ ! rock is wea!r+2 9 :i* direction ! /rata are dipp+2 & :at is ! fa%ion ( ! jo9t+4 ,putt+ ?is in=mation & 8 k ( ! type ( rock toge!r1 he w "k ^u :i* side to attack 8 peak4 ,= in/ance1 if ! /rata dip ?r\gh ! peak1 ! aspect ( ! m\nta9 ^u :i* ! upp] ends ( ! /rata em]ge w give him holds slop$ upw>ds to 8 advantage4 ,?is side1 ) its retr\ss l$ges1 w also hold fre% sn[ longe/ aft] a fall1 & at su* a "t af=d him a fur!r *ance ( locat+ ! lie ( trav]se & %elf4 ,if ! ma9 cleavages1 aga91 are v]tical1 he w select ! mo/ wea!r$ face1 :]e ! jo9t+ w give him plat=m & %elf4 ,if !y are 9 ! ma9 horizontal1 he has to seek ! side t pres5ts ! mo/ sequ5t l9e ( wea!r+ rifts or fractures1 9 ord] to connect up ! natural horizontal l$ges4 ,j z a sunny day is ( mo/ help 9 prospect+ an unkn[n sn[ climb1 s is ! day aft] a sn[fall invaluable = ! exam9ation ( rock r\tes4 ,i owe sev]al f9e new rock climbs to sn[falls4 ,n only does ! lodg+ sn[ indicate p>ticul> l$ges & _! int]vals 9 detail1 b x discov]s to ! eye g5]al connect+ l9es ( trav]se or slope1 :i* may be too int]rupt$ or too =e%ort5$ to be p]ceptible ^u a di/ant inspection ( ! b>e & brok5 rock face4 ,"u sn[ ! ma9 l9es ( rock /ructure leap into sight4 ,by a conv5i5t law ( rock =mation1 ! little apes ! great4 ,?us1 if we c discov] ! g5]al incl9ation ( trav]ses across a face1 h[ev] l>ge 9 scale1 brok5 or int]rupt$ _! l9es may be1 x is safe to assume t ! small details :i* make up ^! l9es1 ! l$ges1 etc41 w be reproduc+ ! same fa%ion ( /ructure 9 little4 ,:]e !re are big t]races1 !re w be small l$ges copy+ _! =m & direction4 ,if !re are big visible gaps1 giant slabs1 or t]races int]rupt$ & cont9u+ at a high] level z a result ( unev5 upheaval1 9 ! same or simil> places1 al?\gh too small to be visible1 ! climb] has to look out = expos$ passages on slabs1 or he w h to se>* = cracks to connect up 8 int]rupt$ l$ges4 ,x is all b impossible to inspect a di/ant climb ) suffici5t m9ut5ess to be absolutely c]ta9 t a fifte5-foot wall or a brok5 l$ge may n /op all progress at "s po9t4 ,v r>ely we c say1 8,x is impossible20 occasionally we c say1 8,x w g = c]ta920 b g5]ally we h to leave "s portion to ! #8r\nd ! corn]' *ance4 ,9 su* case we c reason ) advantage f ! big to ! small1 int]pret+ ! ma9 features ( a face or ridge into t]ms ( detail suitable = our less] ne$s1 & ju/ify+ x by our exp]i5ce ( simil> rock4 ,=tunately1 rocks g5]ally prove u "r4 ,!y seldom *eat u1 by a petty exception1 ( ! fruits ( g5]al conclusions :i* we h bas$ ^u obs]vation ( _! pr9cipal t5d5cies4 ,on ! contr>y1 we are con/antly help$ by k9dly accid5ts & flaws1 :]e we might expect no m]cy4 ,! ,grpon trav]se is a delightful in/ance ( unreasonable progress j made possible by a s]ies (1 app>5tly1 gorge\s accid5ts4 ,! flukes are s brilliant & s timely t ! layman *e]fully assumes !m to be a rule 9 attack+ simil> ,aiguilles2 & he is r>ely disappo9t$4 ,:5 ! expect$ & ! unexpect$ alike fail u1 on su* rock we c /ill c\nt ^u a k9dly r\ghness ( surface & ^u homely me?ods ( friction to jo9 up connections :i* /ructure & luck w\ld h1 = once1 d5i$ to u4 ,9 reconnoitr+ all rock faces1 especially = new r\tes1 we are al]t ab\t ! matt] ( fall+ /ones4 ,on boldly sculptur$ faces ! edges ( ! ribs w be ! safe/ l9e4 ,on faces ( %all[ relief or mu* int]rupt$ modell+1 we may assume t no?+ b ! angle or our =tune w secure u aga9/ cross-fire4 ,we us$ to be told t we %\ld avoid /ones by select+ aspects :]e ! up-lie ( /rata em]g$ 9 sky-w>d & /one-cat*+ l$ges4 ,b p]sonally1 ,i h be5 seldom s badly bomb>d$ z ^u ! ,z]matt face ( ! ,matt]horn1 :]e e s*oolboy kn[s :at happ5s to ! /rata4 ,if ! rock is kn[n to be good rock1 or if we c design a r\te :i* by reason ( its angle or its sali5ce on ! face %\ld be safe1 we may *ance a few expos$ connect+ l9ks4 ,b if ! rock is notori\sly bad1 or ! disconnections 9 ! safe r\te look to be num]\s1 & ?is especially if !y occur high up :]e ! sun w h _h long "t to act be=e we rea* !m1 we mu/ n risk ! attempt4 ,ye>s ago our p>ty turn$ back f complet+ ! asc5t ( ! ,furgg5 ridge ( ! ,matt]horn on ! gr\nd ( risk f /one fall4 ,lat] x 0 climb$2 & ! /ory ( ! success might be read z a comm5t>y on ! m\nta9e]+ value ( ! virtue ( r5unciation4 ,sid5ote3 ,ridges4 ,! same reason+ f ! big to ! little helps u 9 prospect+ ridge climbs4 ,if ! succe$+ edges1 t[]s & l>ge int]ruptions on a great ridge %[ a disposition t[>ds ma9ta9+ a /eady family connection1 ea* ) its neighb\r1 9 spite ( _! bold skyl9e accid5tation--7,i _c put ?is m intelligibly1 b any /ud5t ( natural outl9e w "k :at is meant7--!n !re is e reason to hope t ! #8cuts-(f' betwe5 !m w also prove m rel5t+ ?an !y look4 ,9 _! small] detail ! same indulg5ces1 ( l$ge & flake & fluke 9 fav\r ( ! climb]1 w manife/ !mselves4 ,a ridge se5 end-on is v deceptive4 ,if x rises /eeply1 x may appe> to be a cont9u\s incl9e1 :]eas x consi/s really ( sep>at$1 asc5d+ #8/eps4' ,if a side view is n obta9able1 ! look ( ! walls fall+ on ei!r side f ! ridge cre/ mu/ be our guide4 ,! dep?1 ext5t & numb] ( depressions indicat$ 9 ^! side walls1 se5 9 pr(ile1 w tell u t !re are c\loirs bel[1 & !re=e probably syncopations 9 ! seem+ly cont9u\s cre/-l9e above4 ,! projection ( bulges or articulat$ ribs on ei!r side wall may1 simil>ly1 be id5tifi$ z ! edges or support+ buttresses ( isolat$ t[]s1 ^: dep? ( sep>ation f ea* o!r is conceal$ f u 9 ! =e%ort5+ ( ! ridge4 ,t[]s on a ridge1 se5 9 flat f "o side1 are equally mislead+4 ,!y are m (t5 ! ends ( %ort ridges :i* run crosswise to ! l9e ( ! ma9 ridge ?an ! ne$les :i* !y appe> to ! eye4 ,an inspection ( ! g5]al lie ( ! /rata w (t5 tell u :e!r we may assume ?is to be ! case4 ,if we c get bo? an end-on view & "s oblique view ( ! ridge1 or ( any t[] ^u x1 we c reason fairly closely :at ! two unse5 sides ( any spire w be l1 & ev5 :e!r !y c be expect$ to (f] trav]ses conv5i5tly slop+1 or wea!r$ surfaces1 su* z ! dip ( ! /rata & ! jo9t+ d5y to u ^u ! visible sides4 ,all[ance mu/ always be made = ! deceptive outl9es t are introduc$ by =e%ort5+4 ,a view f "s second po9t is (t5 necess>y to c\nt]act _! false impression4 ,9 prospect+ a ridge = purpose ( trav]se 9 ! e>ly morn+1 x is well also to note :i* side gets ! sun soone/ & keeps x longe/4 ,on ?is side we %all f9d ! holds mo/ cle> ( sn[ or morn+ glaz+1 & be able to escape ! *ill to ! muscles ( %ad[ on cold rock4 ,! rock on ?is side also w1 = ! same reason1 be probably ! m sup]ficially dis9tegrat$1 & s (f] a great] *oice ( holds1 ?\gh n necess>ily holds ( su* good quality4 ,sid5ote3 ,slabs4 ,9 reconnoitr+ slabs1 on faces or on ! side walls ( ridges1 we f9d t _! app>5t angle z se5 9 face is z mislead+ z t ( sn[ slopes4 ,9 _! case we h n ! presumptive k t !y _c be z /eep z !y seem1 s9ce rock may be z p]p5dicul> z x looks4 ,nor h we ! subtle v>iations 9 light & %ad[ :i* help u1 on sn[1 to correct ! eye4 ,rock faces are s brok5 t x is seldom possible to get ! assi/ance ( sun %ad[s 9 e/imat+ ! angle ( portions ( _! surface4 ,on ! o!r h&1 acqua9tance ) ! *>act]i/ics ( ! p>ticul> type ( rock1 & ! visible g5]al incl9ation ( its /rata1 give u a gr\ndwork = a prelim9>y e/imate ( its slabif]\s sections4 ,new sn[ c aga9 come to our assi/ance4 ,sn[ w reveal to u an easy angle by ly+ ov] our slabs z an ev5 cloak2 or x may display a v]tical section by miss+ x altoge!r4 ,x w also indicate ! surface 9 "s detail1 by ! fa%ion ( its di/ribution on l$ge or pocket4 ,o!rwise we mu/ try to secure a side view ( b>e slabs1 or at lea/ a second1 oblique view4 ,if ?is is n to be manag$1 x is ( use to inspect any ne> & m approa*able slab ( simil> =mation4 ,by an exam9ation ( ! pr(ile ( a #8sample' slab we are (t5 able to revise our e/imate ( ! angle & pot5tial holds ( its bigg]1 remot] neighb\rs4 ,b on rock ! f9al judgm5t ( d\btful passages mu/ be left 9 ! end to ! practical te/ ( attempt4 ,! only infallible crit]ion is its tactile value4 ,:5 we h r$uc$ ! #8impossible' sections ( a r\te to a few isolat$ passages1 x is always wor? :ile go+ to see4 ,! accid5ts ( rock1 its r\ghness1 its :imsicality & its retic5ces are ne>ly always 9 ! end 9 our fav\r4 ,if we c only make sure t ! rock is s\nd1 & fix a g5]al l9e ( asc5t1 ! ov]com+ ( ! #8impossibles' or ! #8improbables' 9 detail c well be left to ! mom5t4 ,if we c\ld map out a :ole climb be=e we did x1 mu* ( ! pleasure w\ld be lo/4 ,to ! res\rces ( rock te*nique no rock t is s\nd1 & n obvi\sly absurd1 is impossible1 ei!r by attack or turn+ movem5t4 ,& we may assume ?is to be s until we h asc]ta9$ by #8rubb+ our noses aga9/ x' t we h light$ on ! r>e & unhappy exception4 ,sid5ote3 ,rocks 9 ,brita94 ,9 prospect+ rock climbs 9 our own c\ntry1 reconnoitr+ is practically conf9$ to scrut9iz+ famili> faces = alt]native r\tes or to ori5t+ our own climb+ 9 an unfamili> di/rict4 ,! fir/ is a simple matt] ( good glasses1 good s5se & direct assault4 ,9 ! second1 !re is /ill "s room = g5]al discretion4 ,we h to all[ = a great diff]5ce 9 atmosph]e z betwe5 ,brita9 & ! ,alps4 ,all alp9e measures h to be r$uc$ by ab\t two-?irds4 ,we c g5]ally assume t ! nor? or nor?w>d incl9$ aspects ( ,briti% hills w give u ! be/ climb+4 ,?is judgm5t is subject to p>tial revision1 accord+ z we come to "k bett] ! local *>act]i/ics or ! rock =mation ( ! p>ticul> hill be=e u4 ,if ! rock wall faces to ! s\?1 our prospect ( good cont9u\s climb+ is r$uc$4 ,rocks fac+ s\? w be m dis9tegrat$1 z !y w h be5 less protect$ f ! sun & m subject to /rong v>iations 9 temp]ature4 ,if brok5 up or incl9$ on ?is side1 !y w be cov]$ ) v]dure1 :i* is (f5sive 9 itself & ha/5s ! action ( wat] on all ! rocks x comm&s4 ,we h also to make sure ( ! lie ( ! /rata1 n only = conv5i5ce ( hold1 b also because on ! side t[>ds :i* ! /ratification dips ! moi/ure fall5 on ! m\nta9 w dra91 & we %all h to look out = our pr9cipal enemies--wet rock1 rock corrupt$ by moi/ure1 &1 9 w9t]1 an ic+ or glaze4 ,our isl&s provide u ) a great v>iety ( rock /ructure & hill =ms1 &1 accord+ z we get to "k ! aspects ( "o hill ( any local type1 x is int]e/+ to recon/ruct ! unse5 aspects ( its neighb\rs4 ,sev]al good climb+ cliffs 7 fir/ f\nd 9 ?is way4 ,! look ( ! outl9e w sugge/ ! sort ( climb+ we %all f9d on ! faces4 ,we get fur!r in=mation f ! nature & size ( any scree slopes bel[ a cliff4 ,! pres5ce or abs5ce ( v]dure1 & ! sight ( ! belts1 knots & surface m9uti1 tell u ! re/4 ,all ! local rock ( ! same aspect & 9 ! same /ructural l9e w be simil>1 & may be bad2 b if we c get at ano!r aspect ( x1 on an opposite hillside1 x may be ( good hold+ "*4 ,= :i* reason rickety ridgelets may be fac$ across ! valley by sob] & admirable slabs4 ,mi/ & cl\d 9 ,brita9 are our frequ5t companions4 ,mi/ may d u good s]vice by ?r[+ an unsuspect$ ridge or p9nacle into relief4 ,b z a rule ! alt]ations :i* cl\d & fog effect 9 m\nta9 details falsify r ?an reveal4 ,_! use is to place a great] value ^u ! fidelity ) :i* previ\s reconnoitr+ has be5 conduct$1 & its result rememb]$1 if we wi%1 9 mi/1 to arrive at an int5d$ climb at all1 or to make desc5t into ! "r valley on our return4 ,n impossibly !y are s5t by nature to complicate :at is o!rwise ! ov]-easy m\nta9e]+ tra9+ ( our hills2 to h&icap ! specializ+ gymna/1 & to en=ce ! practices ( obs]v+ detail1 us+ ! compass & map1 & ex]cis+ judgm5t1 memory1 & ! preci\s s5se ( direction4 ,,! ,,half-,,se5 ,9 ! ,alps or unfamili> regions1 to discov] ! tru? ab\t :at may be t]m$ ! half-se51--t is1 ab\t =mation or detail :i* %\ld be visible b = =e%ort5+1 di/ance1 angle or light1--new sn[ is aga9 our be/ auxili>y4 ,its pres5ce sugge/s1 ev5 emphasizes1 mu* t is unsuspect$4 ,seem+ly /raight ridges are %[n to be crook$1 & pla9 faces r\gh4 ,x helps u ) light 9 hidd5 corn]s1 & annihilates di/ance4 ,o!rwise we h to use days ( driv+ cl\d1 or wait = ! morn+ or ev5+ mom5ts ( ?9 mi/1 :5 ! drift lies across ! face or ?r\gh ! ridge1 & picks out its angles1 features & p]spective4 ,mi/s w (t5 reveal ! exi/5ce ( ridges & p9nacles1 ^: sep>ation f ! face beh9d is undiscov]able z se5 9 front or 9 cle> light4 ,( m frequ5t s]vice are ! h\rs :5 ! sunlight falls across ! face f ! side1 & ! protub]ances & holl[s jump into /]eoscopic cle>ness 9 %ad[ & ! modifications ( light4 ,invisible sn[ depressions1 bosses & =e%ort5$ angles ( rock slab or l$ge are *e]fully betray$ by ! v]acity ( cross-%ad[s2 & po9ts & l9es ( ob/9ate sunlight1 :i* rema9 sali5t & surpris+ aft] ! sun has des]t$ all ! re/ ( ! seem+ly ev5 surface ( sn[ or rock1 proclaim to u unexpect$ inequalities & !re=e possibilities ( passage4 ,9 cases ( outside difficulty ^u rock1 :]e we are reconnoitr+ "s great rock wall1 ( a granite or dolomitic type1 we c g5]ally make sure ( ! v]tical rifts & clefts f bel[2 b ! pres5ce or size ( transv]se fractures or belts is hidd5 f u4 ,9 ?is case assurance z to :at has be5 only half-se5 c be complet$ if a d[nw>d view ( ! rock1 or ( its local type1 is also obta9able4 ,! in=mation is be/ secur$ f ! summit ( ! peak itself1 rea*$ by ano!r r\te1 & _m great fir/ asc5ts h ow$ _! discov]y & safe accompli%m5t to su* complem5t>y inspection4 ,only a %ort section ne$ be 9 sight f above 9 ord] to indicate ! g5]al "* ( ! cross belts1 & ! la/ section on su* peaks is always ! m important to exam9e1 z x w g5]ally be ! sev]e/ 9 its details4 ,b ev5 )\t ?is local visitation a d[nw>d or oblique view ( any section ( ! face1 or ( an alli$ or neighb\r+ wall ( simil> /ructure1 w give adequate in=mation1 & conv]t ! half-se5 into ! two-?irds made c]ta94 ,a famili> in/ance ( ! use ( su* inspection w\ld be almo/ any great ,wel% cliff or ,iri% sea cliff4 ,se5 f bel[1 x appe>s to be cont9u\s /eep slabs1 ) only v]tical cracks = ! climb]2 se5 f above1 x looks a jumble ( vague cross-t]races ( grass1 sn[ or rock1 h>dly (f]+ a *ance ( good articulat$ climbs4 ,bo? e/imates w\ld be false4 ,only by collat+ ! two po9ts ( view c a fair judgm5t ( ! "* ( ! climb+ be =m$4 ,a numb] ( delightful climbs1 ( late discov]y1 h ow$ _! neglect to ! fact t !y 7 only easily visible f a s+le aspect1 & t ?is produc$ an abid+ false e/imate ( _! quality4 ,! importance ( secur+ corrective views1 f diff]5t angles1 be x only ( a section ( a propos$ r\te1 or ( a passage ( simil> "* m conv5i5tly situat$1 atta*es also to our inspection ( ! half-se5 on big ridges4 ,) po9ts to rememb] 9 su* inspection ,i h already dealt4 ,x does1 9 fact1 belong n a little to ! reason+ f ! se5 to ! unse52 to :i* m metaphysical division ( reconnoitr+ x leads ov]4 ,,! ,,unse5 ,! inve/igation ( ! unse5 is a *ief conc]n ( m\nta9e]s 9 new regions4 ,b x c also be ( s]vice to ! exp]t1 9 exam9+ ev5 a peak he kn[s well1 to asc]ta9 = him ! condition ( its invisible side on a p>ticul> day4 ,z ,i h said be=e1 x is possible only to indicate :]e signs may be s\ght1 & :at relative diff]5ces ! exp]t eye may discov] & conv]t into in=mation4 ,! m\nta9e]1 aft] inspection ( ! ne> side ( a ridge or summit 9 a big range1 wi%es to supplem5t ?is k by ! discov]y ( ! "* or g5]al =mation ( ! unse5 side4 ,he wi%es to "k :e!r x w give him sn[ ( easi] progress1 or a subord9ate ridge = bett] assault or desc5t2 also :e!r he c look = cle> rock on ! f> side1 to assi/ 8 asc5t ( a ridge unfav\rable 9 its visible aspects1 or :e!r he mu/ be prep>$ = ice slopes4 ,! fir/ conditions = ! inspection are exp]i5ce1 good glasses1 cle> sunlight & no rec5t sn[fall4 ,also1 if he wi%es to confirm or increase ! detail ( 8 obs]vations1 he mu/ be prep>$ to sp5d a :ole day ( good light1 ) ! sun aid+ him f diff]5t po9ts 9 ! sky4 ,z he looks ov] & across 8 high ridges f "s di/ant view-po9t1 9 good sunlight1 ! m\nta9e] is able to di/+ui% sev]al diff]5t k9ds ( sky1 accord+ to ! diff]5t "* ( ! unse5 surfaces f :i* ! sunlight is be+ reflect$ upw>d on to cle> atmosph]e or on to l[ cl\ds4 ,! ,sn[ ,sky4--,?is he w f9d has a di/+ui%able t9t1 id5tifiable by ! practis$ eye1 z diff]5t on a giv5 day f ! normal coloration ( ! sky above z is ! light reflect$ f diff]5t qualities ( /eel1 or f silv] z comp>$ ) electroplate4 ,if ! sky se5 ov] 8 ridge is purely a sn[ sky1 ( uni=m appe>ance1 x is j to assume t ! unse5 side ( ! ridge consi/s ( l>ge sn[ slopes1 & rises at a comp>atively g5tle angle1 s9ce we "k already t ^u broad surfaces1 at a /eep angle1 sn[ c only re/ :ile x rema9s new & adhesive4 ,if1 aga91 ! sky above is purely a sn[ sky1 b is trav]s$ by a b& ( slightly modifi$ quality or tone1 lead+ away f ! eye1 !re w exi/ on ! f> side a correspond+ly incl9$ great sn[ ridge1 f "o side ( :i* ! sun1 9 a giv5 position1 w be reflect+ high light1 b f ! o!r1 l[]4 ,by repeat+ ! obs]vation at diff]5t times ( day1 s t ! light w h fall5 & be5 reflect$ f diff]5t directions1 we c confirm ! exi/5ce ( su* a ridge1 & may be able to locate its position & det]m9e its magnitude ) "s accuracy4 ,a second & *>act]i/ic appe>ance is visible on ! sky above ! unse5 side1 if ?is f> side consi/s ( two l>ge sn[ fields divid$ by a long rocky ridge ext5d+ away f u4 ,we !n h a sn[ sky divid$ by a b& ( sky :i* is n cat*+ any reflect$ high] light1 & :i* we may assume to be a #8rock' sky4 ,! ,rock ,sky4--,if ! :ole expanse ( ! sky above is se5 to h a uni=m & normal tone ) no local alt]ations1 su* z w\ld be produc$ by p>tial sn[ reflection1 !n ! unse5 side w consi/ ( a l>ge wall ( rock--probably1 9 su* case1 /eep rock4 ,"u fav\rable conditions1 a v practis$ obs]v] may detect 9 a uni=m rock sky a b& ( slightly modifi$ tone go+ away f ! eye on ! f> side4 ,?is w be produc$ by ano!r great rock ridge ext5d+ 9 ! correspond+ direction4 ,by wat*+ ! sky above ?is ridge1 & obs]v+ ! diff]5ces produc$ by ! reflections ( light at diff]5t h\rs f its diff]5t aspects1 we may ev5 be able to discov] to our satisfaction :e!r ! invisible ridge is all rock or has "o side cov]$ ) sn[4 ,! ,ice ,sky4--,dry glaci] or l>ge fields ( ice betray !mselves ^u ! sky 9 a slightly grey] t+e1 di/+ui%able m by contra/ ?an by an absolute tone f a sn[ sky "u ! same conditions4 ,!re is also a #8wat]' sky--! unmi/akable look 9 a sky :i* is reflect+ great unse5 %eets ( wat]2 b its id5tification is m famili> & ( m s]vice to arctic or des]t travell]s ?an to m\nta9e]s4 ,ap>t f ^! l>g] sky signs !re are "s m local indications t are ( p>ticul> value to ! climb]4 ,! appe>ance ( ! sky z se5 across ! ridge w 9 mo/ cases give u evid5ce ( a mix$ "*--t ! unse5 side is p>tly rock1 p>tly sn[4 ,x is ?us ess5tial to "k1 if we propose to use ! ridge we are prospect+ = our asc5t1 :e!r ! rock j ov] or on ! ridge is b>e or ice glaz$1 & :e!r ! sn[ discov]$ on ! f> side rises up to ! edge ( ! ridge or leaves a cre/ ( cle> rock4 ,if !re are b>e rocks close up to ! edge on ! unse5 side1 ^! w be at c]ta9 h\rs heat$ by ! sun1 & a hot curr5t ( air w be asc5d+4 ,! skyl9e above w h a wav]+ appe>ance1 %[+ a b& ( d>k] t9t betwe5 ! ridge & ! normal sky4 ,if !re is sn[ close up on ! f> side1 ! air w n be di/urb$1 & ! skyl9e w be /eady & clean4 ,if ! rocks beyond are free f sn[ b glaz$ ) ice1 ! skyl9e w rema9 undi/urb$1 b x w h a brilliant gli/5+ appe>ance 9 /rong sunlight1 l a /rip ( poli%$ blue /eel4 ,?is la/ indication1 if ! eye c le>n its significance1 may (t5 be ( s]vice on climbs :]e ! unse5 m\nta9 /ructure is already kn[n1 b :5 !re is unc]ta9ty z to ! actual condition ( ! rocks on ! day4 ,_m fruitless asc5ts might h be5 sav$ if ! ice glaz+ on su* unse5 sections ( a ridge c\ld h be5 detect$ 9 "t4 ,"s ( ^! appe>ances may ev5 be recogniz$ 9 photographs1 if !y h be5 tak5 "u ! "r conditions & left unt\*$4 ,by wat*+ a giv5 section ( ridge1 :ile ! sun is mov+ across ! sky1 all a sunny day1 & by us+ a map at fir/ to discov] :at ! diff]5t sky signs z !y become visible actually mean1 & also h[ mu* !y reveal ( ! unse5 topography z display$ 9 ! map1 x is possible = "s m5 to tra9 _! sight to discrim9ate fairly closely betwe5 a numb] ( ev5 m complex signs1 & to asc]ta9 actual details z to ! "* & direction ( unse5 walls & cre/s1 ! location ( unse5 sn[ summits1 & ! l5g? ( f> ridges4 ,! process1 9 practical application1 is ( c\rse ?r\gh\t assi/$1 correct$1 & its l9es ( obs]vation sugge/$ by ! ne>] features :i* ! exp]t reconnoitr] already has 9 sight4 ,= an obs]v] :o kn[s ! =ms usual 9 ! type ( m\nta9 be=e him1 & :o has ! local features1 on ! side visible to him1 to indicate /ill m closely :at he may look out =1 ! int]pretation ( ! mean+ ( sky signs pres5ts few] alt]natives1 & ! conclusions drawn f !m c be f> m detail$ ?an w\ld seem possible 7 8 reason+ ab\t ! unse5 bas$ only ^u "o gr\p ( evid5ces4 ,f9al success 9 reconnoitr+ dep5ds ^u our ability to put toge!r1 9 ord] ( _! relative importance1 all our assembly ( l>ge & small evid5ces4 ,exp]i5ce is able to d$uce ! small f ! l>ge & to recon/ruct ! l>ge f ! small2 & confirmation ( ! tru? ( our d$uctions1 f ! se5 or ! unse51 comes :5 two su* l9es ( evid5ce meet3 :5 ! detail :i* we discov] 9 a s+le qu>t] confirms ! speculations t we h bas$ ^u our exp]i5ce or on our int]pretation ( l>g] evid5ces1 or :5 our induction f a numb] ( small visible indications is prov$ correct by "s revelation 9 a great] sky sign4 ,= a m\nta9e] :o has to conv]t 8 obs]vation ( di/ant objects & signs1 ( a size altoge!r incomm5surate ) 8 own1 into t]ms ( a possible advance = 8 eight-foot rea* or f\r-foot /ride1 no evid5ce is too big or too small2--& ?is especially because ! big1 9 m\nta9s1 repeats itself 9 ! small ) timely consi/5cy4 ,a good m\nta9e] might almo/ claim to be able to con/rue a s+le fav\rable sky sign1 "u c]ta9 conditions1 into ! assurance ( 8 atom-l advance up ! inf9ite invisible detail ( an unpromis+-look+ m\nta9 giant4 ,sunny days1 pati5ce & good glasses are fir/ conditions = 8 task4 ,! same glasses %\ld always be us$4 ,a type %\ld be select$ t gives enhanc$ /]eoscopic effect4 ,above all1 ! sight ( ! eyes mu/ be equal1 or corrective glasses %\ld be worn4 ,_m m5 nev] discov] ev5 :at !y ought to be able to see1 until !y le>n t _! eyesight is1 if only slightly1 a/igmatic1 & use spectacles = _! reconnoitr+4 ,reconnoitr+ is n m]ely ! prep>ation = a s+le day or = a p>ticul> climb4 ,a m\nta9e] has to le>n to see & to record all day & e day1 n only di/ant signs = future use1 b ea* & e detail ( 8 surr\nd+s4 ,! detail may be =gott51 b its accumulation w gradually =m 9 8 m9d a mass ( g5]al prec$5ts & ( k ( ! *>act]i/ics ( p>ticul> %apes & /ructures4 ,?is w rema9 ) him1 & w return in/9ctively to aid 8 judgm5t :5 "s cognate detail pres5ts itself to be int]pret$ z a piece ( solit>y evid5ce4 ,z a la/ p]sonal illu/ration1 ,i may recall t "o ( ! pleasante/ new asc5ts 9 my recollection 0 ! outcome ( a simple reason+ f a detail 9 ! se5 to ! memory ( ! unse53 ! sight ( a lay] ( excell5t sn[1 cov]+ = ! "t ! usually b>e slabs ( "o wall ( a peak f :i* we 7 desc5d+1 reviv$ ! recollection t on a fam\s peak 9 ano!r valley 0 a simil> wall ( id5tical aspect & "*1 z yet unasc5d$ on acc\nt ( its normal impracticability4 ,)\t fur!r exam9ation we made ! attempt ^u x1 & ! speculation 0 confirm$ 9 ! *e]ie/ mann]4 ,if c>e s con/ant t x dom9ates alike ! exhau/ion ( failure & ! m dang]\s en]vation ( triumph is ess5tial = our safe climb+1 obs]vation s cont9u\s t x becomes unconsci\s is z necess>y = our =tunate design+4 ,its habit may pr(it u by m ev5 ?an by mom5t>y success4 ,= a m\nta9e] may read a sky sign only = ! promise t x br+s him ( ! morr['s ex]cise2 b he has le>n$ to see x1 & ) ! p[] ( sight he has op5$ a new _w ( pleasure4 ,x 0 ! fir/ sci5tific /ud5t ( ! =m & reflection ( cl\ds1 ( ! /ructure & relation ( hills1 :o 0 ! fir/ und]/&+ prophet ( _! significance = art & imag9ation4 ,! m we c le>n to see or to recon/ruct ( ! m\nta9 =ms visible or invisible ab\t u z we climb1 ! m vividly w memory int]pret _! mean+ = our lives :5 we are no long] among !m4 ,if we are ( a mood to use bo? sight & its int]pretation z s]vants ( our _s z mu* z ( our p]=mance1 we may discov] a reflection f ! m\nta9s t w p]man5tly col\r our ?\ght4 ,!re is a reassurance no less = our j\rney ?r\gh ! ye>s ?an = our m>* ( a day 9 ! p]ception t oncom+ %ad[1 by its v quality ( d>k] relief1 c reveal to u "s unsuspect$ & rel5t+ aspect 9 ! daunt+ precipice across our pa?2 & a tw(old message1 = our m9d ev5 m ?an = our m\nta9e]+1 9 8! light ( ! unse5 sn[-field1 ly+ level beh9d ! visible peaks1 s5t up ) /range reflections ^u ! cl\ds2 an ev]la/+ light ( calm aurora 9 ! nor?40 ,,*apt] ,,ix ,,m\nta9e]+ ,,on ,,ski ,,by ,,arnold ,,lunn ,w9t] m\nta9e]+ may be said to date f ,mr4 ,moore's cross+ ( ! ,/rahlegg & ,f9/]a>jo* ,passes 9 ,janu>y #ahfe4 ,! fir/ big peak to be climb$ 9 w9t] 0 ! ,wett]horn1 :i* 0 asc5d$ 9 #ahgd by ! ,rev4 ,w4 ,a4 ,b4 ,coolidge & ,miss ,brevort2 a few days lat] ?is p>ty climb$ ! ,jungfrau4 ,^! brilliant exp$itions set a fa%ion :i* 01 h[ev]1 only foll[$ by a select company ( m\nta9e]s1 among :om a place ( hon\r mu/ be giv5 to ,mrs4 ,le ,blonde4 ,x 0 n until ,paulcke cross$ ! ,ob]l& at ! end ( #ahig on ! ski t w9t] m\nta9e]+ began to be a popul> sport4 ,to wade up a big peak 9 deep sn[ on sn[-%oes or on foot only appeal$ to a m9ority1 b ! numb] ( ^? :o 7 attract$ by ! *ance ( comb9+ m\nta9e]+ ) ski-+ /eadily increas$4 ,! ,engli% 7 sl[ to foll[ ! new fa%ion2 ! numb] ( ,briti% ski-runn]s :o h a long li/ ( glaci] ski t\rs to _! cr$it is /ill small1 b abroad hundr$s ( exp]i5c$ m\nta9e]s h explor$ ! ,high ,alps on ski1 & abroad ! advisability ( us+ ! ski 9 ! ,high ,alps has pass$ beyond ! limits ( discussion4 ,! "t is com+ :5 mo/ alp9e huts w be provid$ ) ski4 ,a /eadily increas+ numb] ( m\nta9e]s realize t su* peaks z ,monte ,rosa or ! ,z]matt ,brei?orn provide excell5t ski-+ at all mon?s ( ! ye>1 & t ! tr\ble ( dragg+ a light pair ( summ] ski to ! summit is well repaid by a magnific5t run d[n to ! hut4 ,!re is no mon? 9 ! ye> 9 :i* ! writ] has n enjoy$ fir/-class ski-+1 & !re is no season 9 ! :ole alp9e cal5d> 9 :i* ski _c be us$ on ! l(ti] sn[ peaks 9 ! ,alps4 ,ski h come to /ay z an indisp5sable adjunct to m\nta9e]+4 ,to ! rock climb] ! ski are p]haps ma9ly useful 9 bad seasons2 if ! wea!r 9 summ] 7 uni=mly good ! en?usia/ic rock climb] w\ld h little use = ! ski4 ,b long spells ( bad wea!r are n unkn[n1 & _m a climb] :o has engag$ a guide or a c\ple ( guides = a mon? has sp5t a week1 a =tnight1 or 9 "s cases ev5 long] )\t climb+ a peak4 ,i v5ture to ass]t t if he took himself & 8 ski to a club hut he w\ld at lea/ h ! satisfaction ( mak+ good use ev5 ( an aft]noon's f9e wea!r4 ,i rememb] once f9d+ myself at ! ,egon von ,/eig] hut dur+ bad wea!r4 ,x sn[$ all day & all night1 & cle>$ at t5 o'clock ! next morn+4 ,two p>ties on foot attempt$ ! easy ,ebnefluh4 ,bo? 7 driv5 back aft] a v brief /ruggle ) deep s(t sn[4 ,myself & a fri5d rea*$ ! summit on ski 9 m or less normal "t1 & enjoy$ a wond]ful run back to ! hut1 :]e ! disgruntl$ foot-slogg]s _h sp5t ! day4 ,let ! rock climb] le>n to ski1 & :5 ! big rock peaks are deep 9 sn[ he w be able to snat* a ,monte ,rosa or ,brei?orn f ! fir/ f9e day4 ,9 bad seasons individual f9e days are (t5 s&wi*$ betwe5 two or ?ree days ( bad wea!r4 ,su* isolat$ days are useless to ! foot-climb] b invaluable to ! ski-runn]4 ,sid5ote3 ,te*nique4 ,i _c sp>e ! space to expla9 ! te*nique ( ski-+4#ah ,"h ,i ne$ only attempt to dispel a l+]+ belief1 t dies h>d1 to ! effect t !re is "o te*nique = ord9>y ski-runn]s & ano!r = m\nta9e]s4 ,?is curi\s sup]/ition is ! la/ relic ( an explod$ sy/em ( ski-+ taught by an ,au/rian call$ ,zd>sky1 ! ma9 effect ( :i* 0 to enc\rage timid1 sl[ & clumsy ski-+4 ,! #8,lilli5feld' ski 7 %ort1 & made /raight runn+ v difficult & turn+ v easy4 ,! ,lilli5feld sy/em taught p to ski v quickly by dodg+ all difficulties & enc\rag$ a free use ( ! /ick4 ,x 0 a bad sy/em1 & is n[ q discr$it$2 b !re /ill l+]s a curi\s belief t ! ,norwegian /yle may be all v well = small m\nta9s b is too da%+ & insecure = ! ,high ,alps4 ,z a rule1 glaci] ski-+ is f> easi] ?an ski-+ among ! l[] m\nta9s2 ! mo/ difficult ( all ski-+ c\ntry is wood$ c\ntry1 su* z ext5ds = miles r\nd ,*ri/iania1 ! home ( ! #8,norwegian /yle4' ,let me !re=e urge ! read] to ma/] ! free ,norwegian /yle1 to make all 8 turns & sw+s )\t ! aid ( ! /ick1 & to acquire a free & da%+ /yle4 ,! m\nta9e] ev5 m ?an ! l[-level ski-runn] %\ld h complete control ( 8 ski1 & complete control is impossible unless y h le>n$ to control y\r ski n by means ( ! /ick1 b by means ( ! ski !mselves4 ,illu/ration3 ,,sn[ ,,ways ,,jean ,,gab]ell ,!re are a few occasions on :i* ! use ( ! /ick is p]missible on t\r2 b x is s dang]\s to beg9 by us+ ! /ick z a brake1 t ,i w\ld advise ! beg9n] ,,nev] to use ! /ick until he has at lea/ pass$ ! #8,,?ird-,,class ,,te/' :i* is held f "t to "t 9 all ski-+ c5tres patroniz$ by ,briti% runn]s4 ,fur!rmore1 ?\gh ( c\rse x is absurd to take risks 9 ! ,high ,alps1 occasions (t5 arise :]e spe$ means safety4 ,) bad wea!r or night approa*+1 ! man :o c run fa/ /&s m *ance ?an ! man :o c n1 &1 consequ5tly1 ! high] y\r spe$ consi/5t ) safety ! bett] y\r *ances4 ,n[1 a high spe$ consi/5t ) safety c only be ma9ta9$ by ^? :o h lo/ no *ance on small exp$itions ( rais+ ! spe$ at :i* !y feel com=table1 & ?is1 aga91 c only be a*iev$ by runn+ j a little fa/] ?an is q com=table4 ,9 ! ,high ,alps a reckless runn]1 :o is always fall+1 is a dang] to 8 companions & himself1 b a man :o is q incapable ( a fair spe$ is always a nuisance on t\r1 & may sometimes prove a dang]4 ,/ead9ess is ! fir/ requisite 9 ! ,high ,alps1 b spe$ is by no means unimportant4 ,any man ) av]age balance & n]ve1 if he is prop]ly taught1 c le>n to run /eadily & to make sl[ turns on av]age sn[ at ! end ( a =tnight4 ,to become a really exp]t ski-runn] is1 ( c\rse1 ano!r matt]1 b "s ( ! f9e/ ski-turns 9 ! ,high ,alps h be5 c>ri$ ?r\gh ) success by m5 :o 7 n ev5 ?ird-class runn]s4 ,let ! m\nta9e] le>n to ski & take su* *ances z a sn[y summ] may af=d4 ,9 a few h\rs he w beg9 to enjoy ski-+1 & 8 enjoym5t w /eadily increase ) 8 exp]i5ce4 ,x is easy to become a ?ird-class ski-runn]1 & v well wor? :ile tak+ suffici5t tr\ble to become a second-class runn]4 ,fir/-class ski-+ is1 ( c\rse1 n )9 ! rea* ( all4 ,9 ord] to make mu* t foll[s compreh5sible to ! read]1 :o1 ?\gh a m\nta9e]1 has yet to become a ski-runn]1 a %ort def9ition ( ! ski-+ turns & sw+s is necess>y4 ,! object ( e ski-runn] is to approximate z ne>ly z possible 9 8 c\rse to a /raight l9e betwe5 ! po9t ( dep>ture & ! goal4 ,obvi\sly ?is ideal is impossible ( atta9m5t save on comp>atively %ort op5 slopes1 :i* c be tak5 /raight4 ,h5ce ! regrettable necessity ( turns & sw+s :i*1 unlike skat+ turns & sw+s1 are n an end 9 !mselves1 & are only incid5tally beautiful & graceful to execute & to wat*4 ,!re are ?ree pr9cipal turns or sw+s3 ! ,/emm+ turn1 ! ,telem>k1 ! ,*ri/iania4 ,ea* ( ^! turns c be us$ ei!r z a /op turn 7i4e4 9 ord] to /op m or less sudd5ly71 or z a means ( l9k+ "o tack to ano!r4 ,= in/ance1 a slope may be too /eep to take /raight2 9 ?is case ! good runn] desc5ds 9 a s]ies ( l9k$ curves4 ,accord+ to ! condition ( ! sn[1 he w make ^! l9k$ curves ei!r by means ( ! ,/emm+1 ! ,telem>k1 or ! ,*ri/iania turns4 ,! ,/emm+ turn is ! easie/ & sl[e/ turn4 ,x is ! key to alp9e ski-+1 & c be employ$ on sn[ on :i* a ,telem>k or l9k$ ,*ri/iania w\ld be ei!r difficult or impossible4 ,! beg9n] %\ld try to comb9e ,/emm+ ) ,*ri/ianias1 to beg9 8 turn z a ,/em & to f9i% ) a ,*ri/iania4 ,?is sw+1 :i* is sometimes call$ a ,/em-,*ri/iania or a #8,clos$ ,*ri/iania' 7z oppos$ to #8,op5 ,*ri/ianias'71 or by a natural abbreviation a #8,clo/i1' is ! mo/ g5]ally useful ( ski-+ sw+s4 ,! ,lilli5feld sy/em plac$ exclusive reliance on ! ,/emm+ turn & dismiss$ ! o!r two z fancy tricks4 ,?is 0 absurd1 = 9 _m k9ds ( sn[ ! ,telem>k or ,*ri/iania is mu* ! m useful manuvre4 ,ei!r ( ^! latt] turns c be execut$ at a v high spe$1 :]eas ! ,/emm+ turn _c be done at a high spe$4 ,! ,telem>k is ma9ly useful 9 deep s(t sn[ or 9 s(t breakable cru/2 9 ei!r ( :i* ! ,/emm+ turn & ! l9k$ ,*ri/iania is difficult or impossible4 ,! ,*ri/iania1 z a /op turn1 is ! safe/ me?od ( /opp+ at high spe$4 ,l9k$ op5 ,*ri/ianias are n easy to ma/]1 b are v satisfactory :5 ma/]$4 ,:]ev] a l9k$ s]ies ( ,*ri/ianias c be execut$1 l9k$ ,/em-,*ri/ianias are easi]1 & saf]4 ,! p[] to make a s]ies ( cont9u\s non-/op turns ) ! ,*ri/iania m>ks out ! exp]t2 no?+ is m beautiful ?an fa/ desc5t on glaci] sn[1 film cru/ or cru/ slightly s(t5$ by means ( a s]ies ( swift-runn+ ,*ri/ianias4 ,= ! ,high ,alps ,i consid] t ! ,/emm+ turn & ! ,*ri/iania %\ld always be us$ 9 pref]5ce to ! ,telem>k1 except+ 9 v deep s(t sn[--r>e 9 ! ,high ,alps--or 9 s(t breakable cru/4 ,! ,telem>k is a "o-foot turn2 all ! weight is on ! lead+ foot2 consequ5tly ! ,telem>k is less p[]ful & less sure ?an ! ,*ri/iania1 :i* is a two-foot turn4 ,fur!rmore1 ! falls result+ f a ,telem>k :i* has gone wrong are m dang]\s ?an f any o!r turn4 ,f a faulty ,*ri/iania or ,/emm+ turn "o is usually ?r[n backw>ds or sideways aga9/ ! slope2 f a faulty ,telem>k "o is (t5 ?r[n on to "o's head or outw>ds f ! slope4 ,fur!r1 ! ski h a na/y habit ( cross+ beh9d 9 a badly tim$ ,telem>k4 ,to sum up3 ,use ! /ick z little z possible4 ,make all y\r l9k$ turns by ,/em-,*ri/ianias1 except 9 deep s(t sn[ or breakable cru/1 :]e ! ,telem>k %\ld be us$4 ,= a sudd5 /op use ! ,*ri/iania 9 pref]5ce to ! ,telem>k4 ,sid5ote3 ,equipm5t4 ,9 addition to ! ord9>y m\nta9e]'s equipm5t1 ! ski-runn] mu/ h ski1 sealsk9s1 ski-/icks & repair outfit = ski4 ,i h no space to advise on ! *oice ( ski1 b ,i might w>n ! read] aga9/ ! common illusion t ski = m\nta9e]+ %\ld be m>k$ly %ort] ?an ski = %ort t\rs4 ,!y %\ld be a c\ple ( in*es %ort]1 b v %ort ski %\ld n be us$ save 9 ! summ]4 ,i h us$ ! longe/ size obta9able 7#bcf 947 = q long t\rs1 & ! next longe/ size 7#bca 947 9 ! ,high ,alps4 ,sealsk9 are deta*able1 & are fix$ on to ! ski to prev5t ! ski side-slipp+ :ile climb+ a /eep slope4 ,ski-+ boots are bigg] ?an m\nta9e]+ boots4 ,!y %\ld be nail$--lightly nail$1 ( c\rse1 b on no acc\nt entirely nailless4 ,! nailless ski-+ boot is a sup]/ition import$ f ,norway1 :]e ! hills are mild] 9 gradi5t ?an 9 ! ,alps4 ,= all glaci] t\rs crampons1 or1 to use ano!r ^w1 #8ice-claws1' %\ld be tak54 ,eight-po9t]s are be/1 ?\gh good "w c be done ) six-po9t]s4 ,! small f\r po9t]s are mo/ insecure & uncom=table4 ,= all fur!r details z to equipm5t ! read] may consult my book ,cross ,c\ntry ,ski-+4 ,,! ,,alp9e ,,cal5d> ,! fir/ w9t] sn[s usually fall 9 ,octob]3 excell5t ski-+ is (t5 obta9$ at ! ord9>y w9t] sports c5tres 9 ,octob]4 ,glaci] t\rs %\ld c]ta9ly n be attempt$ be=e ,decemb]1 z ! dang] f crevasses is at its maximum 9 ,octob] & ,novemb]4 ,janu>y & ,febru>y are ! be/ mon?s = ski t\rs up to ab\t t5 ?\s& feet4 ,! w9t] prop] is ,,n ! be/ season = glaci] ski t\rs1 ?\gh mo/ ( ! classic ski t\rs 9 ! ,high ,alps h be5 c>ri$ out betwe5 ,decemb] & ! end ( ,febru>y4 ,good ski-+ c be obta9$ at l[ levels well on to ! end ( ,april1 & sometimes ev5 lat]4 ,z a rule1 ! sn[ lies d[n to ab\t five ?\s& feet on nor? slopes well on into ! middle ( ,may4 ,,may ,,& ,,june ,,are ,,! ,,be/ ,,mon?s ,,= ,,glaci] ,,ski-,,+1 ?\gh excell5t ski-+ may be obta9$ ?r\gh\t ! summ]4 ,!re is no mon? 9 ! ye> 9 :i* ! ,high ,alps d n yield good sn[1 b ! be/ all-r\nd mon?s = m\nta9e]+ on ski are und\bt$ly ,may & ,june4 ,,sn[ ,,craft ,! exp]t cross-c\ntry ski-runn] mu/ n only be a fa/ & safe runn] on all k9ds ( sn[ & gr\nd1 b he mu/ also possess a ?or\gh k ( sn[ craft4 ,un=tunately1 !re are n9e ski-runn]s ^: ,telem>ks are p]fect = "o ^: k ( sn[ is ev5 adequate1 & ! numb] ( ^? ^: und]/&+ ( sn[ 9 all seasons ( ! ye> is really exp]t is inde$ small4 ,sn[ craft 9 w9t] & 9 spr+ is ev5 m complex ?an 9 summ]1 & requires a special /udy ( its own4 ,ev5 ! mo/ exp]t guides ^: k ( summ] sn[ leaves no?+ to be desir$ require consid]able w9t] exp]i5ce be=e !y are ?or\ghly compet5t to lead a p>ty among ! ,high ,alps 9 w9t]4 ,! same is true ( spr+2 ea* season1 9 fact1 requires a sep>ate /udy4 ,! ski-runn] ne$s to possess a m exact k ( sn[ ?an t :i* ! foot-m\nta9e] requires4 ,a m\nta9e] on foot is ma9ly int]e/+ to discov] :e!r ! sn[ is h>d en\gh to walk uphill )\t s9k+ 91 & :e!r ! sn[ is likely to avalan*e4 ,h>d sn[1 s(t sn[ & avalan*e sn[ are ! ?ree ma9 categories 9 :i* ! foot-m\nta9e] divides sn[4 ,he ne$ n bo!r ) all ! delicate gradations ( value t di/+ui% sn[ :i* is s h>d t x w n take a ,/emm+ turn1 & sn[ :i*1 ?\gh h>d en\gh to be> a foot1 w yet take a ,*ri/iania or ev5 a ,telem>k4 ,! ski-runn] :o neglects sn[ craft is sev]ely puni%$ = 8 c>elessness4 ,he runs into fa/ & /icky sn[ & pit*es heavily on 8 face1 or f s(t sn[ on to h>d sn[ & falls heavily backw>ds4 ,ev5 ! lea/ obs]vant ski-runn] soon realizes t an elem5t>y k ( sn[ is ess5tial to 8 com=t & 8 safety4 ,8 k ( sn[ ne$s to be in/9ctive4 ,on foot a man has "t to probe & to exam9e1 b on ski he has to diagnose ! sn[ :ile travell+ at a high spe$4 ,he has to possess an accurate s5se ( direction s t he c =etell ! *anges ( sn[ t occur :5 travell+ f1 say1 a nor?-ea/ slope on to an ea/]n slope1 or an ea/]n slope on to a s\?-ea/]n slope4 ,q z _m bad ski-+ falls are caus$ by defici5t sn[ craft z by defici5t balance4 ,precisely because ev5 ! mo/ casual ski-runn] is b\nd to le>n f ! pa/ exp]i5ce ( na/y falls1 ski-+ inevitably tea*es ev5 ! mo/ unobs]vant "s k ( sn[ craft4 ,a ski-runn] _c h& ov] ! :ole /rategy ( ! day's campaign to a guide4 ,he mu/ ?9k = himself & /udy = himself4 ,9 summ] ! real bus9ess ( climb+ usually beg9s :5 ! glaci] or ! summ] sn[l9e is rea*$1 b 9 w9t] a ski-runn] c kill himself 9 an avalan*e )9 an h\r ( ! hotel4 ,sn[ craft beg9s 9 w9t] at ! hotel door4 ,! c>eful /udy ( sn[ is a fasc9at+ bran* ( nature /udy4 ,m c be le>n$ f books ?an ! read] might imag9e4 ,once a ski-runn] has grasp$ h[ sn[ is affect$ by altitude1 ori5tation1 w9d & sun1 he is 9 a bett] position to pr(it by 8 k 9 practice ?an if he 0 =c$ pa9fully to unravel ! laws ( sn[ by p]sonal obs]vation4 ,9 ! e>ly days ( ski-+ 9 ! ,alps ! guides !mselves 7 completely ignorant ( ! ma9 laws ( sn[ 9 w9t]4 ,!y are /ill1 = ! mo/ "p1 ignorant ( ! subtleties ( spr+ ski-+1 :i* is mu* m difficult to und]/& ?an w9t] ski-+4 ,9 w9t]1 if a sn[ slope holds good sn[ 9 ! morn+ x w probably hold good sn[ ?r\gh\t ! day1 b 9 spr+ ! same slope goes ?r\gh a regul> cycle ( *anges4 ,x may be unskiable at dawn1 yield p]fect ski-+ at midday1 prove absolutely unsafe at ?ree 9 ! aft]noon1 & yield good runn+ aga9 9 ! ev5+4 ,to "t a desc5t accurately1 to =eca/ f a k ( ! ori5tation & altitude ( a giv5 m\nta9 t x w yield p]fect ski-+ at a giv5 h\r1 is to "k "o ( ! mo/ satisfactory intellectual pleasures t ! m\nta9s af=d4 ,,w9t] ,,sn[ ,!re are c]ta9 =ms ( sn[ :i* are *>act]i/ic ( c]ta9 seasons4 #8,p[d] sn[1' = in/ance1 is normal 9 w9t] & uncommon 9 ! late spr+2 none ! less p[d] sn[ is (t5 f\nd ev5 9 summ]1 j z c]ta9 =ms ( sn[ :i* are *>act]i/ic ( spr+ or e>ly summ] are occasionally f\nd ev5 9 midw9t]4 #8,w9t] sn[' mu/ !n be tak5 to mean ! k9d ( sn[ :i* is common & *>act]i/ic (1 b n limit$ to1 w9t]4 ,sid5ote3 ,p[d] sn[4 ,9 w9t] a normal sn[fall is accompani$ by a temp]ature bel[ freez+2 sn[ t falls ) ! temp]ature j above freez+ usually desc5ds 9 ! =m ( sleet4 ,=tunately1 su* conditions are n common4 ,sn[ w ev5 fall :5 ! temp]ature regi/]s a degree or two ( ?aw4 ,i h kn[n dry sn[ fall ) a temp]ature ( two degrees above z]o--c5tigrade1 at a height ( #eejj feet above ! sea4 ,simil>ly1 z icemak]s "k1 wat] w freeze on a r9k ev5 :5 ! temp]ature is above freez+-po9t4 ,! explanation = ?is anomaly may be s\ght 9 ! well-kn[n law t pressure l[]s ! freez+-po9t4#ai ,x seems a natural d$uction t dim9i%$ pressure w raise ! freez+-po9t4 #j c5tigrade is ! freez+-po9t ( wat] at sea-level4 ,"u a pressure great] ?an t ( ! air at sea-level1 ! freez+-po9t is l[]$ s t ! bottom ( a glaci] w be 9 a condition ( liquefaction at a temp]ature bel[ freez+4 ,x %\ld foll[ t an air pressure less ?an t ( ! air at sea-level %\ld raise ! freez+-po9t2 or1 9 o!r words1 t at any po9t above sea-level ! freez+-po9t %\ld be high] ?an z]o4 ,f my own obs]vations ,i believe t wat] w freeze & ra9 turn to sn[ :5 ! temp]ature is #b degrees c5tigrade above z]o at a height ( #ejjj feet4 ,=tunately1 ! normal sn[fall is accompani$ by a temp]ature bel[ freez+1 = if ! sn[ is on ! po9t ( turn+ to ra91 x =ms a cru/ :5 ! temp]ature falls4 ,a normal dry sn[fall takes ! =m ( small hexagonal cry/als4 ,newly fall5 sn[ is n compact1 & conta9s a great deal ( air1 :i* sl[ly escapes z ! sn[ settles1 s t aft] a day or two ! new sn[ has lo/ ne>ly a half ( its app>5t dep?4 ,new sn[ is v s(t & sl[1 b gives good runn+ on /eep slopes2 ?\gh1 ( c\rse1 long /eep slopes are liable to avalan*e4 ,good runn+ is also (t5 obta9$ dur+ a sn[fall by *oos+ s\? slopes1 previ\sly cov]$ by a h>d cru/2 = !re is no?+ pleasant] ?an two or ?ree in*es ( sn[ on h>d cru/1 & dur+ a g5tle sn[fall x is possible to enjoy q good sport on su* slopes4 ,9 g5]al1 exp$itions--ev5 q %ort ones--are impossible till ! sn[ /ops1 & unsafe = a day or two aft] a heavy fall4 ,newly fall5 sn[ /icks badly 9 ! sun ev5 if ! temp]ature is well bel[ freez+4 ,once1 h[ev]1 t ! sn[ has settl$ x soon gives p]fect runn+4 ,"o night's really h>d fro/ is suffici5t to produce excell5t sn[4 ,p[d] sn[ rema9s good almo/ indef9itely 9 w9t] on nor!rn slopes1 provid$ x is n spoil$ by w9d4 ,x /eadily improves4 ,9 %elt]$ places ! cry/als gradually gr[ 9 size s t sometimes y f9d l>ge leaf-l =mations1 :i* ru/le "u ! ski l autumn leaves4 ,su* sn[ is a dream ( p>adise4 ,p[d] sn[ is ! ideal runn+ surface4 ,x is equally good = /raight runn+ & = sw+s4 ,9 deep s(t p[d] ! ,telem>k is ! be/ sw+1 b 9 fairly compact p[d] any turn or sw+ is easy & safe4 ,! ski-runn] :o visits ! ,alps 9 w9t]1 & has good luck1 may run = day aft] day on p]fect p[d]4 ,he is 9 dang] ( ?9k+ himself a bett] runn] ?an he is4 ,if he conc5trates on ,telem>ks1 ! fir/ t\r 9 ! ,high ,alps1 :]e he w meet v>ieties ( h>d & s(t cru/1 w f9d him out badly4 ,he %\ld !re=e make a po9t ( sp5d+ a day or two on s\? slopes s z to ma/] ! ,/emm+ turn on h>d sn[4 ,if he is gett+ pleas$ ) 8 ,telem>ks1 let him try a ,telem>k on ! s(t breakable cru/ to be f\nd on s\? slopes at midday1 & if he c d a s]ies ( fa/-l9k$ ,telem>ks 9 su* cru/1 he may !n return to 8 p[d] sn[ ) a good consci5ce4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,effect ( ,w9d on ,p[d] ,sn[4 ,sn[ :i* is spoil$ by ! sun is nev] q impossible1 & is always curable by a hair ( ! dog t bit x2 9 o!r words1 by ano!r & /rong] dose ( sun4 ,b sn[ :i* has be5 wreck$ by ! w9d is ! despair ( ! ski-runn]4 ,! w9d does n affect sn[ t has once be5 cru/$1 s t w9d-swept sn[ is almo/ unkn[n 9 spr+4 ,! fav\rite victim ( w9d is precisely t light1 dry p[d]y sn[ :i* is s common 9 w9t]4 ,! effect ( w9d dep5ds on ?ree factors1 ! /r5g? ( ! w9d1 ! "t dur+ :i* ! sn[ is expos$ to ! w9d1 & la/ly ! type ( sn[ expos$ to ! w9d4 ,p[d] sn[ is ! mo/ s5sitive1 ! quicke/ to spoil & ! mo/ try+ :5 spoil$4 ,h>d cru/ is entirely unaffect$2 heavy wet sn[ is v little affect$4 ,a light w9d produces on p[d] sn[ ! m>k+s :i* are kn[n z ripplem>k1 a t]m :i* has be5 appli$ by sci5ti/s to ! rippl$ effects :i* c be trac$1 n only 9 sn[1 b also 9 s&1 & ev5 9 cl\ds :i* h be5 influ5c$ by w9d4 ,s& & sn[ behave v simil>ly "u ! influ5ce ( w9d4 ,a slightly /rong] w9d1 or a w9d bl[+ = a long] spell1 produces cak$ p[d]1 :i* is d5se & compact1 b has n q lo/ its p[d]y quality4 ,! ski s9k 9 to a dep? ( an in* or m1 & ?\gh fa/ runn+ is dang]\s & apt to produce brok5 ski po9ts1 a good runn] c d]ive mu* pleasure f cak$ p[d]1 & c =ce l9k$ ,telem>ks )\t mu* tr\ble4 ,! ?ird /age 9 ! det]ioration ( sn[ occurs :5 ! w9d produces a h>d cru/4 ,w9dbo>d is h>d & slipp]y1 b s long z x is n v>i$ ) s(t pat*es ( /icky sn[ or ( breakable cru/1 w9dbo>d yields a surface :i* may annoy ! novice b :i* %\ld n prove1 at any rate on slopes ( mod]ate gradi5t1 too tr\blesome to an exp]t :o has ma/]$ 8 h>d sn[ turns4 ,w9dbo>d is common dur+ ! w9t] mon?s 9 ! ,high ,alps2 9 appe>ance & texture x is n unlike ! h>d m>ble cru/1 :i* is f\nd on s\? slopes aft] a long spell ( f9e wea!r1 b x is vital to discrim9ate betwe5 w9dbo>d & m>ble cru/1 because ! =m] may sometimes break away 9 slab avalan*es :]eas ! latt] nev] avalan*es4 ,w9dbo>d betrays its orig9 by ripple m>k+s1 sometimes fa9t b seldom invisible to ! practis$ eye4 ,w9dbo>d is (t5 v>i$ by pockets ( /icky sn[4 ,if w9d produc$ no?+ worse ?an cak$ p[d] or w9dbo>d1 ! ski-runn] w\ld h less cause = compla9t4 ,un=tunately ! w9d (t5 produces horrible surfaces :i* resemble ea* o!r only 9 _! g5]al unsuitability = ski-+4 ,skavla is ! g5]ic ,norwegian "n = w9d-swept sn[1 & skavla is common on ! expos$ fjords ( ,norway & ,sw$51 :]e x atta9s a degree ( unpleasantness seldom mat*$ 9 ! ,alps4 ,skavla v>ies4 ,sometimes skavla consi/s ( pat*es ( glitt]+ ice v>i$ by trea*]\s pockets ( /icky sn[2 sometimes a breakable trap cru/ int]sp]s$ ) w9dbo>d2 sometimes waves ( h>d1 icy sn[ :i* occasionally atta9 a height ( two feet or m4 ,! prevail+ w9d det]m9es ! direction ( ! waves & acts 9 precisely a contr>y fa%ion to t ( w9d on wat]2 = w9d on sn[ has a burr[+ effect1 & =ms ^! waves by excavat+ & erod+ a slope1 gradually =m+ a s]ies ( /eps4 ,9 o!r words1 :]eas on ! sea ! w9d w be f\nd to be bl[+ up ! long] slope ( a wave1 on sn[ ! w9d w h be5 bl[+ aga9/ ! %ort /eep side ( ! sn[y waves4 ,to sum up3 ,! effect ( w9d on p[d] sn[ is always bad4 ,! /rong] ! w9d & ! long] t x bl[s1 ! worse ! sn[4 ,h5ce 9 w9t] avoid expos$ slopes & seek out %elt]$ valleys4 ,! summit slopes ( w9t] m\nta9s w usually be spoil$ by ! w9d1 :i* is "o ( _m reasons :y spr+ is s sup]ior to w9t] z f> z ski-+ 9 ! ,high ,alps is conc]n$4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,effect ( ,sun on ,p[d] ,sn[4 ,p[d] sn[ acquires a cru/ if x is expos$ to w9d1 to sun %9+ at a suffici5tly direct angle1 & to an air temp]ature above freez+4 ,w9d alone has ! p[] ( =m+ cru/ )\t a prelim9>y melt+ ( ! surface4 ,i d n "k :y ?is %\ld be s1 b no d\bt ! reason is to be f\nd 9 ! law t pressure l[]s ! freez+-po9t1 s t ! increas$ pressure caus$ by w9d l[]s ! freez+-po9t1 or1 9 o!r words1 produces ! effects ( a ?aw at ! po9t :]e ! w9d acts ev5 ?\gh ! g5]al air temp]ature may be well bel[ z]o c5tigrade4 ,at any rate1 sun1 w9d & ?aw are alike 9 produc+ a surface cru/4 ,! effect ( ! sun dep5ds ma9ly ^u ! angle ( incl9ation4 ,9 midw9t]1 sn[ w rema9 unaffect$ by ! sun on nor!rly slopes ev5 ?\gh !y receive sev]al h\rs ( sun%9e 9 ! c\rse ( ! day4 ,9 fact1 9 midw9t] ea/]n & we/]n slopes reta9 p[d] sn[ = a v consid]able "t1 :ile a slope t is a few degrees nor? ( we/ or a few degrees nor? ( ea/ reta9s p[d] sn[ ?r\gh\t ! w9t]1 always provid+ t x is n expos$ to w9d or to ?aw4#bj ,i use ! t]m #8?aw' to d5ote a g5]al air temp]ature above freez+ z oppos$ to ! purely local melt+ caus$ by ! sun's rays1 :i* may be1 & 9 fact normally is1 accompani$ by an air temp]ature 9 ! %ade ( sev]al degrees bel[ freez+4 ,! !rmomet] w (t5 be regi/]+ m ?an t5 degrees ( fro/ 9 ! %ade & tw5ty or m degrees ( w>m?--c5tigrade--9 ! sun4 ,x is1 z icemak]s "k1 q common to f9d a belt ( cold air1 two feet 9 height1 j above ! sn[ & j bel[ a /rata ( w>m air sev]al degrees above freez+-po9t4 ,9 normal w9t] wea!r y may be uncom=tably w>m 9 ! sun%9e1 & yet ! sun has no p[] to affect p[d] sn[ on any slope :i* has n a t\* ( s\? 9 x4 ,! /eepe/ s\? slopes are ! fir/ to lose _! p[d] sn[4 ,aft]w>ds1 ! g5tl] s\? slopes foll[ suit4 ,t[>ds ! end ( ,febru>y we/]n & ea/]n slopes beg9 to cru/4 ,9 ,m>* due nor? slopes /ill hold p[d]1--at any rate above #ejjj or #fjjj feet1--b slopes :i* are only a few degrees nor? ( ea/ or ( we/ beg9 to cru/4 ,f9ally1 ! level outruns get cru/$1 !n ! g5tle due nor? slopes1 & la/ ( all /eep nor? slopes4 ,( c\rse at high altitudes w9t] conditions prevail until well on into ,april4 ,9 midw9t] good ski-+ is usually to be _h on s\? slopes = ?ree or f\r days aft] a sn[fall1 ?\gh /eep due s\? slopes soon cru/4 ,! "t dur+ :i* g5tle s\? slopes or slopes :i* are j s\? ( we/ or ea/ w hold p[d] dep5ds on ! g5]al air temp]ature & on ! altitude4 ,i h kn[n pretty /eep due s\? slopes hold p[d] bel[ #djjj feet = ?ree days ( cl\dless wea!r1 b ! temp]ature 0 ab\t #ae degrees c5tigrade bel[ freez+4 ,?is is1 h[ev]1 unusual1 & s\? slopes soon cru/ up ev5 9 midw9t]4 ,! sun melts ! sn[ by day1 & ! melt$ sn[ refreezes at night1 produc+ a cru/4 ,su* a cru/ w1 at fir/1 be s(t & breakable4 ,s(t breakable cru/ is n a bad runn+ surface4 ,x is q true1 i4e4 does n v>y 9 pace f "o place to ano!r1 & is usually s(t en\gh to enable ! ski-runn] to make ,telem>k sw+s1 ei!r /op or l9k$1 )\t mu* difficulty4 ,sometimes ! cru/ is h>d]1 & 9 ?is case ! jump-r\nd or qu]sprung is ! only possible manuvre4 ,a peculi>ly villa9\s =m ( cru/1 =tunately r r>e1 is kn[n by ! appropriate "n ( ,trap cru/4 ,?is cru/ is p]fectly solid at "o spot1 & be>s ! weight ( ! ski )\t break+1 only to crack a few y>ds l[] d[n4 ,! ski-runn] skids ) great spe$ ov] ! h>d cru/1 only to be pull$ up sudd5ly z 8 ski break ?r\gh ! s(t cru/ bel[4 ,trap cru/ is m usual 9 spr+ ?an 9 w9t]1 especially on slopes :i* *ange 9 direction1 s t ! ski-runn] passes f sn[ :i* has be5 suffici5tly ?aw$ to =m a h>d solid cru/ at night to slopes :i* h only be5 sup]ficially melt$4 ,trap cru/ is only f\nd aft] fairly heavy falls ( sn[ :i* require consid]able "t to =m a solid cru/4 ,z a rule1 trap cru/ cov]s a foot or m ( p[d] sn[4 ,to return1 h[ev]1 to m normal w9t] conditions4 ,"u normal conditions ! sn[ on s\? slopes 9 w9t] is gradually trans=m$ into cru/4 ,?is cru/ is at fir/ s(t & breakable1 b ! cont9u\s process ( melt+ & refreez+ gradually produces a solid unbreakable cru/4 ,unbreakable cru/1 z ! ski-runn] soon discov]s1 v>ies greatly 9 quality f h>d cru/ :i* is s h>d t ! ski slip sideways )\t obta9+ ! lea/ grip1 cru/ :i* on any slope b ! mo/ g5tle is almo/ unskiable1 to ! o!r extreme1 cru/ :i* ?\gh q h>d & unbreakable is r\gh en\gh to p]mit ev5 a ,telem>k & to make ,*ri/ianias & ,/emm+ turns delightfully easy4 ,! solid cru/ =m$ 9 w9t] is usually v h>d & slipp]y be=e ! sun /rikes x4 ,?is cru/ is kn[n z ,m>ble ,cru/4 ,y f9d m>ble cru/ on s\!rn slopes 9 w9t]1 & at high altitudes 9 spr+4 ,x is common 9 ! ,high ,alps4 ,ev5 at ! v end ( ,april ,i h kn[n a slope at a height ( #ab1jjj feet rema9 h>d1 slipp]y & uns(t5$ = "s little "t aft] ! sun _h /ruck x because a bitt] nor? w9d _h l[]$ ! temp]ature sev]al degrees bel[ freez+4 ,9 mid-w9t] a slope ( m>ble cru/ w yield good ski-+ aft] ! sun has /ruck x1 unless ! air temp]ature is sev]al degrees bel[ freez+4 ,m>ble cru/1 t\*$ by ! sun1 yields a surface :i* w puzzle ! beg9n] b :i* is pure delight to ! man :o has ma/]$ ,/emm+ turns & ,*ri/ianias4 ,! excell5t runn+ t may be obta9$ on s\? slopes is too little exploit$1 = w9t] ski-runn]s are firmly conv9c$ t good ski-+ c only be f\nd on nor? slopes :]e p[d] lies4 ,mid-w9t] may be said to la/ till ! end ( ,janu>y4 ,9 ,febru>y y (t5 f9d p]fect spr+ sn[1 ,telem>k cru/1 etc41 on s\? slopes1 & 9 ,febru>y1 z (t5 z n1 ! be/ runn+ is obta9$ on s\!rn slopes4 ,?is type ( runn+ w be dealt ) lat]4 ,sid5ote3 ,summ>y ( ,w9t] ,sn[4 ,w9t] sn[ may !re=e be summ>iz$ z foll[s4 ,! normal w9t] sn[ :i* is f\nd ?r\gh\t ! w9t] on nor!rn slopes & occasionally on s\!rn slopes is p[d] sn[ :i* is p]haps ! ideal ski-+ sn[4 ,p[d] sn[ det]iorates "u ! influ5ce ( w9d & sun4 ,w9d is ! m mis*iev\s4 ,a little w9d does no great h>m1 & ! exp]t c ev5 ski ) pleasure on ! h>d cru/ =m$ by w9d1 b ! extreme action ( w9d (t5 produces v>ieties ( sn[ :i* are all b unskiable4 ,! ,high ,alps & l(ty summits 9 g5]al be+ mo/ expos$ to w9d w usually yield inf]ior ski-+ to %elt]$ slopes4 ,! be/ ski-+ 9 w9t] w !re=e seldom be f\nd on ! glaci]s4 ,sn[ also det]iorates "u ! influ5ce ( sun1 :i* =ms a cru/4 ,?is cru/1 h[ev]1 once =m$ is (t5 improv$ by a fur!r dose ( sun4 ,?\gh ! be/ ski-+ is usually obta9$ on nor? slopes1 excell5t ski-+ is (t5 obta9$ on s\? slopes by ^? ^: k ( sn[ craft is suffici5t to "t _! desc5t & to *oose _! r\te accurately4 ,abnormal conditions produc$ by ,fhn & ?aw are dealt ) on pp4 #dag-dbb4 ,,spr+ ,,sn[ ,we h se5 t good ski-+ 9 w9t] dep5ds l>gely on ! abs5ce ( w9d4 ,a sudd5 ?aw may also produce a disa/r\s result1 = sn[ :i* has once be5 ra9$ on & refroz5 w rema9 cov]$ ) cru/ until !re is a new sn[fall4 ,! be/ w9t] sn[ is )\t rival1 b spr+ sn[ is1 on ! :ole1 saf] & less caprici\s4 ,9 normal spr+ wea!r all sn[ is cru/$ 9 ! e>ly morn+1 = ! sun is p[]ful en\gh to melt sn[ ev5 on nor!rn slopes4 ,b ?is spr+ cru/1 z we %all soon %[1 is mu* less tr\blesome ?an cru/ 9 w9t] & yields v f9e ski-+ inde$4 ,w9d1 ! great enemy 9 w9t]1 has no effect 9 spr+1 = w9d _c affect h>d cru/1 & if w9d bl[s :ile ! sn[ is fall+ a few days ( /rong sun w melt any w9d-=m$ cru/ & produce exactly ! same surface z if ! sn[ _h nev] be5 t\*$ by w9d4 ,x %\ld1 h[ev]1 be add$ t1 9 ! e>ly spr+1 w9d1 ?\gh p[]less on sn[ :i* has once be5 melt$ & cru/$1 is a great nuisance if x bl[s on sn[ :i* is /ill p[d]y1 z is usually ! case = tw5ty-f\r h\rs or s aft] a sn[fall2 sn[ :i* has once be5 cru/$ by ! w9d has a v /rong resi/+ p[] to ! action ( ! sun2 ,i h kn[n s\? sn[ 9 ,m>* reta9 irritat+ effects ( w9d action aft] sev]al days ( /rong sun t w\ld h be5 suffici5tly pot5t to melt any ord9>y cru/4 ,spr+ ski-+ is1 z a rule1 delightful4 ,sn[ is tr\blesome 9 ! int]m$iate /age betwe5 p[d] & cru/4 ,once a cru/ is =m$1 ! m (t5 t cru/ is remelt$ & refroz5 ! bett]1 z !re is no?+ bett] ?an old cry/all9e sn[ :i* has be5 ?r\gh ! mill ( melt+ & refreez+ aga9 & aga94 ,unless wet ,fhn bl[s su* sn[ w always reta9 its cry/all9e "*1 ev5 :5 remelt$ by ! sun1 & w always yield good ski-+4 ,( c\rse 9 ! late spr+ at l[ altitudes ! sun is p[]ful en\gh ?or\ghly to ?aw & dr5* ! sn[1 & 9 ! middle ( ,may bel[ #gjjj feet wet sn[ 9 ! middle ( ! day is unpleasant4 ,b 9 ,m>* & ,april ski-+ on melt$ cru/ is :olly delightful4 ,incid5tally ! be/ #8,spr+ sn[' is (t5 f\nd at ! end ( or 9 ! middle ( ,febru>y on s\!rn slopes4 ,f ! beg9n+ ( ,m>* onw>ds all slopes1 save ^? at v high altitudes1 beg9 to cru/ ov]4 ,! process is gradual on nor!rn slopes4 ,!re is a p]iod :5 ! nor!rn slopes no long] hold ! dry loose p[d] ( w9t] b h n yet begun to cru/4 ,spr+ p[d] is common on nor? slopes 9 ,m>*4 ,x is d5s] ?an w9t] p[d]1 & is n s dry4 ,x is slightly moi/ on ! surface1 & mu* heavi]4 ,x yields1 h[ev]1 a fir/-class runn+ surface1 & w take any turn or sw+4 ,its ma9 objection is ! fact t x is peculi>ly liable to avalan*e4 ,gradually1 h[ev]1 ,spr+ p[d] disappe>s1 save at great heights1 & all slopes are cov]$ by cru/4 ,9 ! aft]noon ! cru/ is melt$1 & ! sn[ is s(t & wet on all slopes4 ,at night ! sn[ is refroz54 ,! normal cycle1 !n1 ( a normal spr+ 7say ,april1 at altitudes betwe5 #cjjj & #ijjj feet7 is z foll[s3 ,h>d cru/ at dawn2 cru/ sup]ficially s(t5$ betwe5 sunrise & midday2 s(t melt$ sn[ 9 ! aft]noon2 s(t breakable cru/ z ! sun loses 9 /r5g?2 & solid h>d cru/ aft] ! sunset4 ,fir/ let u consid] ! h>d cru/ usually f\nd at dawn4 ,?is diff]s mat]ially f ! m>ble cru/ ( w9t]1 & f any ( ! cru/s =m$ by w9d action4 ,x is1 z a rule1 slightly s(t]4 ,:at is m to ! po9t1 x is r\gh]4 ,! surface ( normal spr+ cru/ is p]=at$ by numb]less little holes4 ,sometimes ^! holes are q small1 m]e pockm>ks1 sometimes !y are z l>ge z half-cr[n pieces4 ,x is ! pres5ce ( ^! holes & ! r\ghness ( ! cru/ t makes /e]+ easy1 s t control is n difficult1 & l9k$ ,*ri/ianias or ,/emm+ turns are )9 ! p[] ( ! good runn]4 ,p]=at$ cru/1 9 fact1 is a delightful runn+ surface4 ,x is common at l[ altitudes 9 ,m>*1 at mod]ate altitudes 9 ,april1 & is normal 9 ! ,high ,alps 9 ,may1 ,june1 ,july & ev5 ,augu/4 ,film cru/ is f\nd 9 ,may & ,june on ! glaci]s1 & occasionally at l[ altitudes 9 ,april4 ,x =ms a delightful runn+ surface4 ,unlike m>ble & p]=at$ cru/1 x is n q homog5e\s4 ,x is compos$ ( a h>d "u-surface ( solid cru/1 cov]$ by a v ?91 s(t1 & transp>5t film ( ice1 :i* gli/5s 9 ! sun l burni%$ silv]4 ,?is film ( s(t ice is %orn away z ! ski beg9 to come r\nd on a turn4 ,x provides a spl5did pur*ase1 prev5t+ effectually all side-slip1 & yet n suffici5tly /rong to make turns difficult4 ,film cru/ is admirable = fa/ /raight runn+1 because at any mom5t ! pace c be regulat$ by a swift turn4 ,!re is no?+ f9] ?an a run d[n ! glaci]s 9 ! e>ly morn+ on film cru/4 ,we h se5 t ! cold nights ( w9t] produce m>ble cru/1 :i* is h>d & slipp]y4 ,m>ble cru/ is ! k9d ( surface :i* ne$s crampons or a *ip ) ! axe if x is climb$ on foot4 ,fur!r1 m>ble cru/1 & all =ms ( cru/ produc$ by w9t] w9ds1 yield a v unsatisfactory surface1 too slipp]y to give good pur*ase4 ,we h se5 t ! mild] nights ( ,april produce p]=at$ cru/ :i* is mu* r\gh] & gives good ski-+1 :ile ! ev5 w>m] nights ( ,may & ,june produce film cru/ 9 :i* ,*ri/ianias & ,/emm+ turns are easy & safe4 ,9 fact film cru/ gives su* a wond]ful grip t ev5 ,telem>ks are possible4 ,f ?is we d$uce ! foll[+ law3 ,provid$ ! night's fro/ is suffici5t to produce a solid unbreakable cru/1 ! cru/ w give ! be/ ski-+ :5 ! fro/ has be5 lea/ sev]e4 ,9 o!r words1 8,,! ,,mild] ,,! ,,fro/ ,,! ,,bett] ,,! ,,cru/40 ,?is rule is important4 ,x (t5 happ5s 9 spr+ t "o has to />t d[n be=e ! sun has produc$ a surface melt+4 ,aga9 & aga9 ! fir/ ?\s& feet or s ( desc5t h be5 spoil$ because ! cru/ 0 too h>d & slipp]y4 ,b ! l[] "o ran d[n ! bett] ! ski-+4 ,! h>d m>ble cru/ ( w9t] gave way to ! p]=at$ or film cru/ ( spr+4 ,9 ,april1 9 ! ,high ,alps1 w9t] conditions (t5 prevail at high altitudes to give way to spr+ conditions l[] d[n4 ,y />t a run on m>ble cru/ & end on p]=at$ or film cru/4 ,! l[] ! altitude ! mild] ! night fro/1 & h5ce ! bett] ! cru/4 ,b ( c\rse ! h>d cru/ ( dawn is soon *ang$ "u ! influ5ce ( ! sun4 ,at fir/ ! sun produces a slight surface s(t5+ :i* is1 h[ev]1 q suffici5t to make a great deal ( diff]5ce4 ,ev5 m>ble cru/1 if sup]ficially s(t5$1 yields excell5t runn+4 ,gradually ! melt+ process becomes m pron\nc$4 ,sun-t\*$ cru/ ) a slight surface moi/5+--q suffici5t to make ,*ri/ianias & ,/emm+ turns a joy--yields to cru/ cov]$ by an in* or two ( melt$ sn[4 ,su* cru/ is kn[n z ,telem>k cru/--n because ,*ri/ianias are n easy1 b because ,telem>ks are v simple1 :]eas ,telem>ks are difficult1 if n impossible1 on h>d cru/4 ,telem>k cru/ is a normal /age 9 ! passage ( h>d cru/ to melt$ sn[4 ,x is ! practical c]ta9ty ( f9d+ ,telem>k cru/ at c]ta9 h\rs 9 spr+ t makes spr+ ski-+ 9 f9e wea!r su* a delight4#ba ,z ! sun increases 9 /r5g? all trace ( ! und]ly+ cru/ disappe>s4 ,! sn[ is melt$ ?r\gh & ?r\gh1 & becomes dang]\s on /eep slopes4 ,?is wet sn[ is (t5 sl[1 b x nev] /icks l ! wet sn[ ( w9t]4 ,on /eep slopes x gives good runn+--if unsafe4 ,sn[ /icks 9 ! int]m$iate /age betwe5 freez+ & ?aw+4 ,?us p[d] sn[ :i* is beg9n+ to ?aw /icks abom9ably1 b sn[ :i* is melt$ ?r\gh & ?r\gh does n /ick4 ,sn[ :i* has once be5 ?or\ghly melt$ & !n refroz5 w nev] /ick badly aga94 ,a surface ( wet sn[ ov]ly+ p[d] w1 ( c\rse1 /ick1 b melt+ sn[ :i* re/s ei!r on h>d cru/ or on ! h>d gr\nd does n /ick4 ,x may be sl[1 b x does n adh]e 9 /icky lumps to ! runn+ surface4 ,?us two in*es ( melt$ sn[ on top ( cru/ 7,telem>k cru/7 gives a f9e runn+ surface1 & an in* or ev5 less ( wet sn[ on grass also gives excell5t sport4 ,sn[ t has be5 melt$ & refroz5 night aft] night soon acquires a cry/all9e "*4 ,:5 ! cru/ beg9s to melt aft] ! sun has /ruck x1 ! melt+ surface is compos$ ( num]\s wet cry/als1 sometimes ab\t ! size ( salt cry/als1 sometimes mu* l>g]4 ,?is granul> sn[ is famili> to all spr+ runn]s1 & gives an excell5t ski-+ surface4 ,occasionally t[>ds sunset1 z ! wet heavy sn[ t is usually f\nd 9 ! aft]noon dur+ ! wet spr+ beg9s to freeze aga91 y w f9d ! sn[ assum+ a v m>k$ cry/all9e =mation1 :i* resembles ! wet hypo cry/als ) :i* photograph]s are famili>4 ,9 g5]al1 s long z sn[ reta9s a cry/all9e =mation x gives good runn+4 ,salt sn[ or hypo sn[ yields excell5t sport4 ,9 ,may at l[ altitudes ! sun1 h[ev]1 is s p[]ful t x dissolves ! cry/als & r$uces all ! sn[ to "o consi/5t heavy wet slu%4 ,su* sn[ does n /ick--t is to say1 x does n adh]e to ! runn+ surface--b x is v sl[4 ,fur!rmore x is dang]\s1 because if y run sudd5ly on to a pat* ( ?is v heavy sn[ y are liable to be pit*$ on to y\r face4 ,(t5 ! sn[ is n only melt$ d[nw>ds b upw>ds1 = ! gr\nd is v w>m 9 spr+1 & ?aws ! sn[ f bel[1 s t y w (t5 f9d a pat* ( s(t heavy sn[ re/+ 9 ! =m ( a %all[ bridge on an empty space4 ,! ski break d[n ! bridge ( sn[1 & ! ski-runn] pit*es heavily =w>d4 ,su* holl[ sn[ is seldom f\nd 9 ,april1 b is common 9 ,may at l[i% altitudes4 ,9 ,may ! be/ ski-+ at l[ altitudes 7#ejjj-gjjj feet7 is obta9$ be=e #aj a4m4 & aft] #g p4m4 ,9 ! e>ly morn+ & j aft] sunset ,i h (t5 enjoy$ fir/-class ski-+ "r d[n to #ejjj feet & l[]1 well on into ! middle ( ,may4 ,we may !re=e sum up ! normal cycle ( a spr+ day z foll[s3 ,at dawn e slope w be cov]$ by a h>d homog5e\s cru/4 ,?is cru/ w be ei!r m>ble cru/1 9 :i* case x w yield v difficult & unpleasant ski-+1 or p]=at$ cru/ or film cru/4 ,p]=at$ & film cru/s give excell5t ski-+ ev5 be=e ! sun has begun to s(t5 ! cru/4 ,:5 ! sun beg9s to ga9 9 /r5g? ! h>d cru/ is sup]ficially s(t5$1 & gives good runn+ ev5 9 ! case ( m>ble cru/4 ,a lat] /age is rea*$ :5 ! h>d cru/ is s(t5$ to a dep? ( ab\t two or ?ree in*es 7,telem>k cru/74 ,?is aga9 gives good runn+4 ,ei!r be=e or aft] midday1 accord+ to altitude & incl9ation1 all traces ( cru/ disappe>1 & all slopes at mod]ate altitudes are r$uc$ to wet1 heavy & m or less wat]-logg$ sn[4 ,9 ! e>ly spr+ ?is /age is p]haps only rea*$ on s\!rn slopes4 ,9 ! late spr+ x is rea*$ on all slopes at l[ altitudes & on nor? slopes1 save1 p]haps1 at v high altitudes4 ,9 g5]al1 ! ski-runn] %\ld n be abroad at su* h\rs4 ,t[>ds ev5+ ! slopes beg9 to refreeze4 ,!re may be an int]val ( hypo sn[--s(t hypo-l cry/als 9 :i* fa/ runn+ & e k9d ( sw+ is p]fectly safe & easy4 ,?is is soon foll[$ by ! =mation ( a s(t breakable cru/1 :i* gradually h>d5s until at la/ ! cycle is complete by ! =mation ( a h>d solid cru/4 ,,?us ,,9 ,,g5]al ,,!re ,,are ,,two ,,p]iods ,,( ,a ,,spr+ ,,day ,,:5 ,,ski-,,+ ,,is ,,easy1 ,,fa/ ,,& ,,safe4 ,,! ,,fir/ ,,p]iod ,,is ,,:5 ,,! ,,h>d ,,cru/ ,,beg9s ,,to ,,s(t51 ,,& ,,! ,,second ,,p]iod ,,is ,,:5 ,,! ,,wet ,,melt$ ,,sn[ ,,beg9s ,,to ,,freeze4 ,,! ,,ski-,,+ ,,is ,,lea/ ,,pleasant ,,& ,,mo/ ,,dang]\s ,,betwe5 ,,midday ,,& ,,sunset4 ,,! ,,effect ,,( ,f,,hn ,,& ,,?aw ,s f> we h discuss$ normal w9t] & spr+ conditions4 ,fhn is1 un=tunately1 associat$ n only ) spr+ b ) w9t]4 ,! conditions t are produc$ by ,fhn are1 h[ev]1 spr+ conditions r ?an w9t] conditions2 = ,fhn1 ?\gh by no means uncommon 9 w9t]1 is at lea/ abnormal1 :]eas p]iods1 m or less prolong$1 ( ,fhn wea!r may be reg>d$ z normal 9 spr+4 ,! peasants h a say+ t1 if ! ,fhn did n bl[1 ! good ,god & ! w>m sun c\ld d little ) ! sn[4 ,c]ta9ly b = ,fhn ,switz]l& w\ld /ill be cov]$ ) glaci]s4 ,fhn1 /rictly speak+1 %\ld be us$ only = ! w>m dry w9d t bl[s f ! s\?1 & :i* has be5 ! cause ( s _m fires4 ,! fire ( ,gr9delwald 0 caus$ by ?is type ( ,fhn4 ,! w9d dries up ! wood5 *alets1 & a sp>k f a cig> or a kit*5 fire1 c>ri$ on ! w9d1 is en\gh to k9dle wood5 build+s f :i* ! w9d has absorb$ e trace ( moi/ure4 ,b ! ^w ,fhn is also us$ = ! w>m1 damp s\?-we/ w9d1 :i* is 9 e way utt]ly diff]5t f dry ,fhn4 ,!y are alike only 9 t bo? dry & wet ,fhn raise ! temp]ature & melt ! sn[4 ,i propose to call ! true ,fhn ,,dry ,f,,hn & ! wet1 w>m s\?-we/ w9d ,,wet ,f,,hn4 ,dry ,fhn is (t5 associat$ ) long spells ( w>m dry wea!r4 ,! skies are cl\dless1 & !re is no h9t ( ra9 to be se54 ,y "k t !re is ,fhn 9 ! air by a peculi> w>m dryness1 a m>k$ abs5ce ( coolness & moi/ure 9 ! atmosph]e4 ,! wet ,fhn always br+s ra94 ,sometimes dry & wet ,fhn w fight = ! ma/]y4 ,sometimes dry ,fhn w em]ge into wet ,fhn & br+ d[n ! ra91 only to recov] its ma/]y a day or two lat]4 ,sid5ote3 ,fhn 9 ,w9t]4 ,let u consid] ! effect ( wet ,fhn 9 w9t] prop]4 ,! ski-runn] is b\nd to detect ! fir/ h9t ( wet ,fhn 9 ! air by a slight /ick9ess 9 any p[d] sn[ t he may *ance to be ski-+ on4 ,if ! wet ,fhn is slight1 copi\s wax+ w elim9ate its effects2 b if x is pron\nc$1 ! sn[ w ball & /ick atroci\sly4 ,%\ld ! ,fhn disappe>1 x leaves its legacy beh9d4 ,all slopes ( p[d] sn[ :i* h be5 affect$ are cov]$ ) a cru/1 :i* w be m or less ?ick accord+ z ! ?aw has be5 m or less sev]e4 ,i assume1 ( c\rse1 t ! ?aw _h be5 foll[$ by ! fro/ at night1 )\t :i* cru/ _c be produc$4 ,only a new sn[fall c re/ore a slope ( p[d] sn[ :i* has once be5 melt$ by ,fhn to its pri/9e conditions4 ,sometimes ! ,fhn is s slight t ! surface ( ! p[d] sn[ is b>ely t\*$4 ,x is n cov]$ by cru/1 b !re is a suspicion ( resi/ance z ! ski drive ?r\gh due to an embryo cru/4 ,telem>ks are n q s easy1 & a v fa/ sw+ is apt to ?r[ ! ski-runn] outw>ds1 ow+ to ! fact t ! side-slip is less pron\nc$2 = ! sn[ gives less easily :5 cov]$ by ! fir/ h9t ( cru/4 ,m usually ! ,fhn1 if x once beg9s1 is accompani$ by ra94 ,(t5 ev5 9 ,decemb] heavy ra9 w fall on all slopes bel[ #ab1jjj feet4 ,directly ! ,fhn disappe>s ! usual w9t] fro/s w conv]t su* slopes into solid icy cru/ :i* is h>d] & m slipp]y ?an any m>ble cru/ produc$ by sun or w9d4 ,i h se5 cru/1 =m$ by ,fhn foll[$ by fro/1 s h>d t nei!r ski nor hobnail$ boots left any p]ceptible trace2 & on an easy slope :i* a beg9n] c\ld take /raight ,i h slid d[n helplessly on my back "s hundr$ y>ds1 only to be sav$ f a fur!r & probably fatal fall by a guide1 :o ?\ghtfully receiv$ my head 9 ! pit ( 8 /oma*1 break+ a ?umb 9 ! ef=t to arre/ me4 ,t 0 an extreme case ( ice cru/ produc$ by ,fhn1 b x is n uncommon to f9d e slope bel[ #aj1jjj feet cov]$ by an icy cru/1 on :i* ski-+ is impossible4 ,! wise ski-runn] climbs on crampons1 & selects a due s\? slope = ! desc5t1 & times 8 desc5t = midday4 ,! slight surface s(t5+ produc$ by ! sun is usually en\gh to produce sup]ficial /ick9ess1 :i* gives capital runn+1 provid$ t y h ma/]$ ! ,/emm+ turn & ,*ri/iania4 ,b1 except at or ne> midday1 & except on s\? slopes1 ski-+ is impossible dur+ su* p]iods4 ,sometimes good ski-+ is obta9$ ne> /ream b$s :5 all o!r slopes are cov]$ by h>d cru/4 ,! mi/ t rises f ! /ream b$ desc5ds 9 ho> fro/ & cov]s ! cru/ ) a lay] ( cry/als deep en\gh to take a turn4 ,b su* slopes are sc>ce4 ,occasionally ! wet ,fhn is foll[$ by a p]iod ( dry ,fhn4 ,9 ?is case ! fro/ at night is mu* mild]1 & y w (t5 f9d in/ead ( m>ble or icy cru/ typical spr+ =mations4 ,i h f\nd p]=at$ cru/ & ev5 film cru/ 9 ,janu>y1 :5 a p]iod ( dry ,fhn ) high temp]atures by day & mild fro/s by night _h foll[$ two or ?ree days ( ra94 ,= weeks toge!r ,i h kn[n ! cru/ =m$ by dry ,fhn to resemble p]=at$ cru/1 b =m$ ( a mu* smoo!r & m slipp]y texture4 ,imag9e a h>d surface pitt$ by numb]less smoo? little r\nd holl[s ab\t ! size ( half-cr[n pieces4 ,?is type ( h>d p]=at$ cru/ gives good runn+1 b calls = a ?or\gh ma/]y ( h>d sn[ turns4 ,(t5 ! dry ,fhn produc$ a surface-melt+ to a dep? ( two or ?ree in*es--typical spr+ conditions 9 midw9t]4 ,?is aga9 is an illu/ration ( ! law /at$ on p4 #dad3 8,! mild] ! fro/ ! bett] ! cru/40 ,9 o!r words1 once ! sn[ 9 midw9t] has be5 ?or\ghly spoil$ by ?aw foll[$ by fro/1 ! ski-+ w be be/ :5 ! conditions approximate z ne>ly z possible to ^? *>act]i/ic ( spr+4 ,spr+ sn[ is q common 9 w9t] :5 dry ,fhn foll[s wet ,fhn1 & ! wise ski-runn] w seize e *ance ( secur+ spr+ conditions once he has despair$ ( prop] w9t] conditions4 ,he w *oose s\? slopes in/ead ( nor? slopes1 l[ altitudes in/ead ( high altitudes1 & "t 8 desc5t = ! sunny r ?an ! %ady h\rs4 8,! mild] ! fro/ ! bett] ! cru/40 ,f :i* x foll[s t ! l[] ! altitude & ! dri] ! ,fhn ! bett] ! ski-+--once normal w9t] conditions h be5 int]rupt$4 ,x is mo/ int]e/+ to obs]ve h[ ! same slope w be compos$ ( typical spr+ cru/ "o day & ( impossible slipp]y w9t] m>ble cru/ ! next day4 ,! diff]5ce is solely due to ! fact t1 9 ! fir/ case1 ! night's fro/ _h be5 mild1 & 9 ! second case sev]e4 ,aft] ,fhn y w (t51 = in/ance1 f9d a que] k9d ( surface1 call$ ,foam cru/1 compos$ ( innum]able ov]lapp+ edges1 m9iature cornices =m$ by a little trickle ( wat]1 a m]e drop1 :i* has run (f a ?9 small eave ( sn[4 ,n[ h>d froz5 foam cru/ is v unpleasant1 b directly ! dry ,fhn ga9s ! ma/]y1 & directly ! h>d foam cru/ is expos$ to a hot sun & a hot dry ,fhn atmosph]e1 x imm$iately s(t5s1 & yields v f9e ski-+ n unlike ! be/ ,telem>k cru/4 ,to summ>ize ! effect ( ,fhn 9 ,,w9t]3 ,wet ,fhn foll[$ by fro/s produces a cru/ on all slopes :i* h be5 expos$ to ?aw4 ,if ! ,fhn is v pron\nc$1 & is accompani$ by ra91 :i* is foll[$ by fro/1 all slopes w be cov]$ by a h>d solid cru/4 ,if a p]iod ( normal cold w9t] wea!r sets 91 ?is cru/ w be v h>d & v slipp]y1 & w only yield good ski-+ on s\? slopes expos$ to ! sun4 ,if ! wet ,fhn is foll[$ by dry ,fhn1 y w get spr+ conditions at any rate at l[ altitudes--a h>d cru/1 smoo!r b n unlike p]=at$ cru/1 9 ! e>ly morn+1 & a s(t cru/1 n unlike ,telem>k cru/1 on s\? slopes :5 ! sun is %9+ on !m4 ,sid5ote3 ,fhn 9 ,spr+4 ,! ,fhn is less deadly 9 spr+1 because sn[ :i* has be5 cru/$ by ,fhn & fro/ is remelt$ by ! sun1 & ! sun & fro/ toge!r w always produce ! same surface1 :atev] has gone be=e4 ,a w9d-swept slope or a ,fhn-cru/$ slope are affect$ 9 precisely ! same way4 ,9 w9t] ,fhn spoils all sn[ t x has affect$1 &1 save = ! lucky accid5t ( dry ,fhn1 "o has to wait = a new fall till normal w9t] conditions are re/or$4 ,b 9 spr+1 once ! ,fhn has ceas$1 a s+le sunny day foll[$ by a s+le cold night's fro/ is suffici5t to produce ! normal spr+ conditions1 h>d cru/ 9 ! morn+ pass+ ?r\gh ! normal trans=mations ( ! spr+ day4 ,wet ,fhn is1 h[ev]1 mo/ unpleasant 9 spr+ :ile x la/s4 ,if y are caught by wet ,fhn 9 a club hut y are imprison$ till ! ,fhn passes1 = ! wet ,fhn br+s d[n ! avalan*es on e slope above #bc degrees 7see p4 #dcj74 ,ski-+1 :ile !re is a t\* ( wet ,fhn 9 ! air1 is always unpleasant4 ,sn[ :i* has be5 melt$ by ! sun 9 a dry atmosph]e nev] entirely loses its cry/all9e =mation1 except+ at l[ altitudes 9 ! v late spr+4 ,& ev5 !n sun-melt$ sn[ is nev] s unpleasant z sn[ melt$ by ! ,fhn4 ,! ,fhn dis9tegrates ! sn[1 de/roys ! cry/all9e =mation1 r$uces ! sn[ to "o uni=m heavy mass4 ,su* sn[ does n /ick 9 spr+1 provid$ x has be5 ?r\gh ! usual process ( melt+ & refreez+ on previ\s days4 ,b ?\gh ! spr+ ,fhn does n produce /ick9ess1 x gives ! sn[ a dragg+1 clogg+ grip4 ,x may n #8ball' "u ! ski l /icky sn[ 9 w9t]1 b on all b /eep slopes x makes ski-+ desp]ately sl[4 ,uphill "w is mo/ try+1 = ! friction betwe5 wet ,fhn sn[ & ! ski is v m>k$4 ,! ski h to be ?ru/ ?r\gh ! cl++ surface1 & ! wet ,fhn n only affects ! sn[1 x affects "o's :ole body & produces a g5]al s5se ( lassitude4 ,,summ] ,,sn[ ,betwe5 ,july & ! end ( ,septemb] ! sn[l9e climbs ev] high]4 ,! sn[ above ?is sn[l9e obeys ! laws t we h tri$ to expla9 9 ! prec$+ pages4 ,sn[ is trans=m$ into cru/ by ! action ( sun or ?aw or w9d1 & ! cru/ itself af=ds good or bad ski-+1 accord+ to ! conditions "u :i* x has be5 produc$ & ! conditions t affect x :5 once x has be5 =m$4 ,9 ! summ] y w meet ) e type ( sn[ 9 ! ,high ,alps4 ,aft] a fre% sn[fall ! sn[ w (t5 rema9 p[d]y = days on nor!rn slopes at great altitudes4 ,betwe5 ,july & ! beg9n+ ( ! w9t] y w f9d typical w9t] sn[1 p[d] sn[ or w9d-driv5 sn[3 y w f9d typical spr+ sn[1 su* z film cru/ or p]=at$ cru/1 b y w n f9d any type ( sn[ :i* c fairly be describ$ z ma9ly *>act]i/ic ( ! summ]4 ,! conditions 9 ,july & ! fir/ half ( ,augu/ w approximate to ^? ( ,june1 ?\gh ( c\rse !re w be f> less sn[ 9 ,augu/ ?an 9 ,june4 ,t[>ds ! end ( ,septemb] ! sn[ conditions w approximate to ^? ( ! w9t] prop]1 ) ! important diff]5ce t ! sn[ at ! end ( ,septemb] approa*es a m9imum4 ,once ! ski are left beh9d & ! f9al climb begun on foot1 !re w be _m complex & difficult problems ( sn[ craft to solve :i*1 h[ev]1 h>dly come )9 ! scope ( pure ski-+4 ,( ^! ! mo/ important is ! problem ( safety4 ,once ! ski are left beh9d1 ! climb]'s int]e/ 9 ! sn[ is r$uc$ to two ma9 problems3 ,is ! sn[ h>d en\gh to make go+ easy & yet n s h>d z to ne$ /ep-cutt+8 ,is ! sn[ safe or w x avalan*e8 ,! avalan*e "q w be treat$ 9 its prop] place4 ,summ] ,ski-+ w be dealt ) on pp4 #dfh-dgj4 ,i h tri$ to cond5se ?is section1 &1 l all cond5s$ & !oretic writ+1 x w no d\bt prove r dull read+4 ,9 ! lat] sections ,i %all try to provide concrete illu/rations ( ! pr9ciples "h expla9$1 & to %[ h[ ! laws ( sn[ craft may be appli$ 9 ord] to get good ski-+ 9 ! mon?s ( ! alp9e cal5d>4 ,,sn[ ,,avalan*es ,sn[ avalan*es may be classifi$ ei!r z ,gr\nd avalan*es or z ,sup]ficial avalan*es4 ,,gr\nd ,,avalan*es--! #8,grundlaw95' ( ,cont95tal writ]s--may be def9$ z avalan*es 9 :i* ! entire sn[ surface is /ripp$ (f a slope1 reveal+ ! und]ly+ e>?1 grass or rock4 ,,sup]ficial ,,avalan*es may be def9$ z avalan*es 9 :i* a lay] ( sn[1 m or less deep1 slides (f an und]ly+ lay] ( sn[ or ice4 ,be=e proce$+ to discuss avalan*es 9 g5]al1 & to analyse m exactly ! v>i\s subdivisions ( ^! two pr9cipal categories1 x is ess5tial to analyse ! prim>y conditions t produce avalan*es4 ,prim>y conditions may be def9$ z ^? :i* exi/ be=e ! sn[ has cov]$ a slope1 orig9ally b>e ( sn[4 ,^! prim>y conditions are ! cont\r & gradi5t ( ! slope & ! nature ( ! surface t und]lies ! sn[4 ,no avalan*e has yet be5 obs]v$ on slopes ^: gradi5t is less ?an #bc degrees1 ?\gh1 ( c\rse1 ev5 level slopes h (t5 be5 ov]:elm$ by avalan*es fall+ f /eep slopes above4 ,o!r ?+s be+ equal1 ! /ability ( a sn[ slope dep5ds n only on its gradi5t1 b also on ! gradi5t ( ! slopes j bel[ & ! slopes j above4 ,a concave slope1 = in/ance1 :i* has an ev5 outfl[ s t !re is no sudd5 *ange ( gradi5t & s t ! /eep] slopes m]ge gradually into g5tle slopes & ^! g5tle slopes into a level outrun1 is inf9itely saf] ?an a convex slope ! high] portions ( :i* are m gradual ?an ! l[] portions bel[4 ,slopes t /eep5 sudd5ly bel[ a comp>atively safe gradi5t %\ld always be treat$ ) great respect4 ,a slope1 ^: gradi5t w\ld be p]fectly safe if ! slope pet]$ out gradually1 may be highly dang]\s if ! g5tl] slope ends sudd5ly 9 a /eep slope1 = ! sn[ on ! g5tle slope is1 s to speak1 #89 ! air4' ,x has lo/ ! natural support :i* is af=d$ by a gradual concave base lead+ out on to ! level1 & !re is a reasonable *ance ( ! weight ( ! sn[ on ! saf] slope prov+ j too mu* to /& ! /ra9 at ! po9t :]e ! slope /eep5s4 ,9 g5]al concave slopes are saf] ?an convex slopes1 & slopes :]e ! gradi5t /eadily dim9i%es t[>ds ! base are saf] ?an ^? 9 :i* ! gradi5t increases be=e ! base is rea*$4 ,( c\rse1 any slope ov]hang+ a cliff is always to be treat$ ) v great c>e1 z ev5 a sup]ficial sn[ slide :i* w\ld be q innocu\s if ! slope end$ on easy safe gr\nd may prove fatal if x c>ries ! ski-runn] to ! edge ( a cliff bel[4 ,! *ance ( surviv+ an avalan*e dep5ds greatly on ! nature ( ! gr\nd :]e ! avalan*e comes to re/4 ,_m ski-runn]s h escap$ unhurt aft] be+ c>ri$ d[n sev]al hundr$ feet because !y h manag$ to keep on ! surface ( ! avalan*e & because ! avalan*e has gradually spread out fan-%ap$ on op51 g5tle slopes4 ,b an avalan*e fall+ into ! b$ ( a n>r[ ,v-%ap$ valley ) /eep sides is almo/ c]ta9 to prove fatal1 = ! victim ( ?is avalan*e w be buri$ by ! sn[ fall+ above1 & ?is sn[ w fill up ! n>r[ b$ ( ! valley & freeze solid in/antane\sly by pressure4 ,?us all n>r[ valleys su* z ! ,urba*?al1 or ! upp] ,rhone valley betwe5 ,glets* & ,ob]wald1 %\ld only be asc5d$ :5 ! sn[ is ?or\ghly safe4 ,an analog\s case is :]e a tribut>y ridge runs across a hillside4 ,an avalan*e fall+ d[n ?is hillside w pile itself up aga9/ ! tribut>y ridge & a ski-runn] w probably be cru%$ bel[ ! avalan*e1 squeez$ 9 betwe5 ! tribut>y ridge & ! ma9 slope4 ,(t5 a l>ge mora9e fulfils ^! conditions1 s t an avalan*e fall+ f a neighb\r+ slope is arre/$ at ! mora9e & pil$ up aga9/ x4 ,simil>ly1 if y are caught by an avalan*e :ile asc5d+ a gully1 y\r *ance ( escape is mu* great] if ! gully wid5s bel[ ! po9t :]e ! avalan*e ov]:elms y4 ,if x contracts1 ! pressure ( ! sn[ =c+ its way ?r\gh a n>r[ space may cru% y to dea?4 ,comp>e ! acc\nt ( ! avalan*e t kill$ ,b5n5 quot$ 9 ,scrambles 9 ! ,alps4 ,! bottom ( a valley is n only dang]\s = reasons j /at$1 b also because ! /ream at ! bottom ( a valley (t5 ex]cises1 especially 9 spr+1 an und]cutt+ effect on ! sn[ slopes t end 9 ! /ream b$4 ,! nature ( ! und]ly+ surface1 ap>t f its cont\r & gradi5t1 is a factor ( vital importance1 especially 9 ! e>ly w9t] & 9 ! spr+4 ,at int]v5+ p]iods mo/ avalan*es are sup]ficial1 & slide f an und]ly+ surface ( h>d sn[2 b 9 ! e>ly w9t] & 9 ! late spr+ ! :ole sn[ slope slides away1 s t ! nature ( ! und]ly+ surface & ! probable support t x af=ds is ( great importance4 ,/eep grass-slopes =m a dang]\s "u-surface1 especially :]e x is nev] or seldom m[n2 = long unm[n grass g5]ally lies fac+ d[nw>ds1 & (f]s a mo/ slipp]y surface4 ,grass :i* is regul>ly m[n is usually %ort & /ubby 9 w9t]1 & gives bett] pur*ase to ! sn[4 ,a slope cov]$ by /ony b\ld]s1 bu%es or trees is usually fairly safe1 ?\gh a big avalan*e1 once x is fairly "u weigh1 w sweep ov] %rubs & ev5 ov] small trees4 ,fairly d5se wood may usually be consid]$ z safe1 provid$ "o avoids ! long op5 cle>+s made by old avalan*es1 :i* s (t5 run d[n ! middle ( a =e/4 ,an elem5t>y k ( geology is useful2 ! excell5t geological maps publi%$ by ! ,swiss ,survey c (t5 be consult$ ) b5efit4 ,rocks :i* suff] mu* surface dis9tegration provide a bett] pur*ase = sn[ ?an v h>d & consequ5tly v smoo? rocks4 ,! h>d #8,ho*gebirgskalk1' an alp9e v>iety ( lime/one1 :i* is v common1 especially 9 high regions1 is slipp]y1 & in/ead ( dis9tegrat+ gradually1 z gneiss or granite dis9tegrates1 has a habit ( break+ away along v]tical & horizontal jo9ts4 ,! common rock kn[n z #8,flys*1' common 9 ! l[] ,alps1 provides a mu* saf] surface4 ,glaci]-poli%$ rocks are1 ( c\rse1 especially dang]\s1 & ! :ole ,grimsel region is consequ5tly swept by avalan*es ?r\gh\t ! w9t]4 ,! lie ( ! /rata is an important factor4 ,:]e1 z is usually ! case1 ! /rata are incl9$1 "o slope ( a m\nta9 w usually be saf] ?an ! o!r4 ,diagrams ,i & ,,ii repres5t ! nor? & s\? slopes ( a ridge runn+ m or less ea/ & we/4 ,! ridge is =m$ by p>allel b incl9$ b&s ( /rata4 ,rock climb]s "k t ! slope 9 ,diagram ,i1 ?\gh ( ! same gradi5t z ! slope 9 ,diagram ,,ii1 is v mu* m difficult to climb4 ,x is also mu* m liable to avalan*e1 z ! outcrop ( ! /rata provide a natural *eck to avalan*es 9 ,diagram ,,ii2 :]eas 9 ,diagram ,i ea* outcrop =ms a small /eep sn[ slope q unsupport$4 ,if ! outcrops are ( reasonable bread?1 !re w be belts runn+ across ! face ( ! slope at ,a'1 ,b'1 ,c'1 ,d' :i* w be incl9$ into ! slope1 & provide a safe l9e ( trav]se2 :]eas !re is no safe l9e = a ski-runn] desir+ to trav]se or asc5d ! slope ,a1 ,b1 ,c1 ,d4 ,illu/ration3 ,,diagram ,i4 ,illu/ration3 ,,diagram ,,ii4 ,geological maps indicate ! #8/rike' ( ! /rata1 & !re=e provide useful clues z to ! v>y+ liability ( slopes to avalan*e4 ,loose scree gu>antees ! ski-runn] aga9/ gr\nd avalan*es1 b1 z ! w9t] advances1 loose scree is soon cov]$ ) deep sn[1 f :i* lat] lay]s ( sn[ c slide un9flu5c$ by ! und]ly+ scree4 ,9 fact1 z ! w9t] advances1 ! orig9al und]ly+ surface plays a small] "p 9 ! problem ( avalan*es4 ,h>d-cru/$ sn[ cov]$ by s(t sn[ is especially dang]\s1 & ( c\rse ice1 z is s (t5 met ) 9 ! ,high ,alps1 is ! wor/ "u-surface ( all4 ,=tunately1 sn[ (t5 atta*es itself firmly to ice1 trans=m+ an ice slope into a sn[ slope4 ,! conditions necess>y = ?is trans=mation w be expla9$ on pp4 #dbf-dbg4 ,s f> we h dealt ) prim>y conditions1 ! nature ( ! gr\nd be=e ! sn[ has begun to fall & ! gradi5t ( ! slope f :i* ! avalan*e slides4 ,an important factor is ! quantity ( sn[ on ! slope4 ,x (t5 happ5s t a %all[ sup]ficial lay] deta*es itself & c>ries a ski-runn] d[n ! slope4 ,if ! slope ends on g5tle gr\nd1 no damage is done beyond ! loss ( height & ! consequ5t wa/e ( "t & ef=t 9 reasc5d+ to ! spot f :i* ! avalan*e />t$4 ,b if ! sn[ slide c>ries ! ski-runn] ov] a cliff or into a b]gs*rund or crevasse1 x is cle>ly immat]ial to ! ski-runn] :e!r 8 orig9al sn[ slide 0 #a in* or #f feet 9 ?ickness4 ,i propose to use ! ^w ,,sn[ ,,slide = su* small avalan*es z are only dang]\s :]e !y c>ry ! ski-runn] on to dang]\s gr\nd1 su* z ! edge ( a precipice1 & to res]ve ! ^w ,,avalan*e = avalan*es deep en\gh 9 !mselves to ov]:elm & possibly to kill a ski-runn]4 ,?\gh a v small lay] ( sn[--an in* or ev5 less--is en\gh to produce a sn[ slide1 especially if ! %all[ lay] re/s on ice1 ! am\nt ( sn[ necess>y to produce a real avalan*e is mu* great]1 & v>ies v mu* ) ! quality ( ! sn[4 ,,classification ,,( ,,avalan*es ,! old writ]s divid$ avalan*es into #8,grundlaw95' 7gr\nd avalan*es7 & #8,/aublaw95' 7du/ avalan*es7--a mislead+ classification1 = a gr\nd avalan*e may be compos$ ( dry p[d] sn[1 & produce all ! appe>ance ( a #8,/aublaw95'3 ! cl\ds ( :ite sn[ du/1 once suppos$ to be peculi> to avalan*es ( p[d] sn[1 are really common 9 almo/ e type ( big avalan*e1 especially :]e ! avalan*e falls ov] /eep cliffs4 ,i pref] to divide sn[ avalan*es into f\r ma9 classes3 ,i4 ,dry p[d] avalan*es4 ,,ii4 ,wet new sn[ avalan*es 7i4e4 p[d] sn[ :i* has begun to ?aw z diff]5tiat$ f old wet sn[ :i* is =m$ by cru/ :i* has be5 ?or\ghly melt$74 ,,iii4 ,sn[-slabs4 ,,iv4 ,wet old sn[ avalan*es--! ,grundlaw95 ( ! old] au?ors4 ,i4 ,,dry ,,p[d] ,,avalan*es4--,newly fall5 sn[1 :i* has n be5 subject to ?aw or sun1 conta9s a great deal ( air until x settles1 & ev5 :5 x has settl$ x /ill imprisons a consid]able quantity ( air4 ,?is makes = /ability1 = sn[ is less likely to avalan*e :5 x lacks cohesion4 ,i h (t5 exp]im5t$ on newly fall5 sn[ at a l[ temp]ature1 & ,i h f\nd x almo/ impossible to />t an avalan*e on any slope bel[ ab\t #ce degrees & less ?an ab\t #bjj feet 9 height4 ,small sn[ slides are common en\gh if ! und]ly+ surface is h>d2 b z a rule ev5 sn[ slides come to a /&/ill aft] a few y>ds4 ,! really dang]\s dry p[d] avalan*es only occur on v long & /eep slopes1 :]e ! am\nt & mass ( ! sn[ is suffici5t to produce ! necess>y mom5tum = a big avalan*e4 ,dry p[d] has a /rong int]nal friction1 &1 z a rule1 "s p[]ful ext]nal impact is necess>y to />t an avalan*e4 ,( su* impacts w9d is ! mo/ dang]\s4 ,a sudd5 blizz>d may conv]t a valley1 safe :5 ! ski-runn] ent]$ x1 into a v]itable dea?-trap4 ,fur!r1 ! fall ( an avalan*e on "o side ( a valley may precipitate o!r avalan*es on ! opposite side4 ,p>tly ow+ to ! air imprison$ 9 dry p[d]1 & p>tly ow+ to ! mom5tum ( ! avalan*e itself1 ! w9d caus$ by a big fall ( sn[ is extremely p[]ful & de/ructive4 ,h\ses & trees are torn away by ! bla/1 ev5 ?\gh !y may be beyond ! track ( ! avalan*e4 ,! =ce ( ! w9d is multipli$ manifold :5 ! avalan*e falls into a con/rict$ space1 su* z ! floor ( a n>r[ valley4 ,i h se5 a bridge j bel[ ,glets* de/roy$ by a spr+ avalan*e1 or r by ! w9d caus$ by an avalan*e on ! opposite side ( ?is v n>r[ valley4 ,a l>ge "p ( ! bridge1 weigh+ sev]al tons1 _h be5 ?r[n upw>ds to a height ( ab\t #aej feet6 ,aft] a heavy sn[fall ! dang] ( dry p[d] avalan*es may la/ = a day or two1 or ev5 m2 b z a rule two or ?ree days ( settl$ wea!r & ke5 fro/s r5d] mo/ nor!rn slopes--9 w9t]1 ?\gh n 9 spr+--safe en\gh4 ,:5 ! p[d] sn[ has pass$ into ! /age kn[n z ,cry/al p[d]--i4e4 :5 ! small light dry p[d] has be5 conv]t$ into cry/als ( an appreciable size--! dang] ( avalan*es is v remote4 ,on a w9dless day ) a temp]ature 9 ! %ade bel[ freez+1 ,i %\ld n hesitate to cross almo/ any slope up to #ce degrees :i* 0 cov]$ by g5u9e cry/al p[d] sn[1 provid$ t ! slope pet]$ out gradually on to ! level & did n ov]hang a cliff4 ,,ii4 ,,wet ,,new ,,sn[ ,,avalan*es4--,directly ! p[d] sn[ is expos$ to surface ?aw1 ei!r ow+ to a rise ( temp]ature or to ! sun1 its weight & cohesiv5ess increase1 & ! dang] ( avalan*es is consequ5tly mu* great]4 ,sometimes ! sn[ falls ) a temp]ature above freez+4 ,?is wet new sn[ is dang]\s1 b z x is also extremely unpleasant = ski-+1 few ski-runn]s are likely to be abroad4 ,on ! o!r h&1 ski-runn]s are (t5 tempt$ to cross a s\!rn slope :]e ! p[d] is beg9n+ to melt4 ,sn[ on a /eep s\!rn slope soon gets ?aw$ ?r\gh ! bottom1 s t gr\nd avalan*es are q normal 9 w9t] on s\? slopes4 ,z a rule1 s\? slopes 9 w9t] get rid ( _! sup]flu\s sn[ 9 ! fir/ two or ?ree days ( f9e wea!r4 ,! sn[ t rema9s is ?aw$ by day & froz5 by night1 s t at ! end ( f\r or five days ! s\? slopes h got rid ( _! avalan*es1 & ! sn[ t rema9s is a cru/ m or less h>d & slipp]y4 ,?is cru/ by day may become s(t breakable cru/1 b once x has cru/$1 a slope 9 ! w9t] is n likely to avalan*e until !re is a new sn[fall4 ,a v m>k$ rise 9 temp]ature may make a s\? slope t has be5 cru/$ dang]\s aga92 b su* sudd5 & m>k$ rises ( temp]ature are r>e 9 w9t]4 ,9 g5]al1 !re=e1 s\? slopes 9 w9t] are saf] ?an nor? slopes4 ,!y give rise to m avalan*es1 b su* avalan*es z fall (f s\? slopes g5]ally fall )9 two or ?ree days aft] a sn[fall1 aft] :i* a s\? slope is cru/$ & safe 9 w9t]2 & ?\gh aft] a few days ( settl$ wea!r mo/ nor? slopes are absolutely safe1 v /eep & v long nor? slopes1 or %ort /eep slopes ov]hang+ a cliff1 are always dang]\s4 ,( c\rse1 :5ev] ! wet ,fhn is bl[+1 or :5ev] !re is a g5]al ?aw1 all /eep slopes1 & a great _m mod]ate slopes1 become v dang]\s inde$4 ,! effect ( ! ?aw is to give ! sn[ ! cohesiv5ess & weight :i* x lacks 9 its pri/9e dry condition4 ,! dampness 9 ! air saturates ! sn[ ) moi/ure & increases its weight4 ,dur+ a sev]e ,fhn y w (t5 see huge gr\nd avalan*es almo/ z de/ructive z ^? t fall 9 spr+4 ,:5 ! ,fhn is bl[+ ski-+ is always extremely dang]\s4 ,=tunately1 x is also extremely unpleasant1 or fatal avalan*e accid5ts w\ld be m frequ5t4 ,! dry ,fhn 7see p4 #dah7 is mu* less dang]\s4 ,unless x is v pron\nc$1 x w h>dly affect nor!rn slopes 9 w9t]1 ?\gh x may conv]t a s\? slope1 usually cov]$ by h>d cru/1 & !re=e safe1 into s(t wet & dang]\s sn[4 ,9 spr+ nor!rn slopes usually hold p[d] sn[ = a few days at high altitudes1 & ev5 at mod]ate altitudes 9 ! e>ly spr+1 su* z ,m>*4 ,?is p[d] sn[ soon loses ! dry1 light1 p[d]y *>act]i/ics ( w9t] p[d]4 ,?\gh x cont9ues to yield excell5t runn+1 spr+ p[d] is v liable to avalan*e4 ,x is damp] & m cohesive ?an dry p[d]1 & !re=e m dang]\s4 ,dry p[d] (t5 re/s on ! gr\nd bel[4 ,a nor!rn slope w (t5 be cov]$ ) a homog5e\s lay] ( p[d] "s feet 9 dep?1 b spr+ p[d] 7see p4 #dac7 inv>iably re/s on a h>d-cru/$ slope bel[4 ,x !re=e t5ds to slide away dur+ ! w>m h\rs ( ! day1 & %\ld be treat$ ) v great caution4 ,avalan*es compos$ ( spr+ p[d] are1 prop]ly speak+1 new wet sn[ avalan*es4 ,!y mu/ be c>efully di/+ui%$ f old wet sn[ avalan*es1 = old wet sn[ is =m$ by ! melt+ ( cru/1 :]eas spr+ p[d] is =m$ by ! melt+ ( p[d] sn[1 i4e4 #8new sn[4' ,sn[ may be def9$ z #8new' be=e x has be5 cru/$1 & z #8old' :5 x has be5 ?r\gh ! cru/+ process4 ,?us p[d] sn[ is always #8new1' h[ev] long x may be s9ce x fell4 ,on ! o!r h&1 a sn[fall 9 ,june may be turn$ into cru/ )9 tw5ty-f\r h\rs1 & !reby become #8old sn[4' ,cru/ & s(t sn[ =m$ by ! melt+ ( cru/ are bo? #8old' sn[4 ,spr+ p[d] is all ! m dang]\s1 because x yields wond]ful ski-+ at a "t :5 o!r slopes h be5 spoil$ by ! sun4 ,fur!rmore1 z spr+ p[d] is f\nd on nor? slopes1 ignorant ski-runn]s und]e/imate its dang]2 = x is a common fallacy among ! inexp]i5c$ t s\? slopes are m dang]\s ?an nor?4 ,9 spr+ ! rev]se is usually ! case1 = avalan*es 9 spr+ are occasion$ by ! g5]al air temp]ature j z mu* z by ! sun4 7,see also bel[1 p4 #dch7 ,,iii4 ,,! ,,w9d-,,slab4--,! w9d-slab is ! mo/ trea*]\s ( all avalan*es1 ! mo/ difficult to =esee1 & ! mo/ incalculable 9 effect4 ,fall+ sn[ is usually accompani$ 9 ! ,high ,alps1 & (t5 accompani$ 9 ! l[] regions1 by w9d4 ,if ! w9d is p[]ful1 ! fall+ sn[ is driv5 ov] expos$ ridges 9 :irlw9ds1 & comes to re/ on ! lee-side & 9 %elt]$ holl[s4 ,9 ?is way ! sn[y av5ues lead+ to glaci] passes & ! m %elt]$ sn[-fields receive m ?an a fair %>e ( sn[4 ,?is action ( ! w9d1 d5ud+ ! expos$ ridges & fe$+ ! holl[s & lee-sides1 takes place on bo? a l>ge & a small scale3 on a l>ge scale1 :5 sn[y valleys are f$ f ! sn[ bl[n (f ! expos$ ridges t rise out ( !m1 & on a small scale on any slope expos$ to w9d :i* is divid$ by ridges1 h[ev] small4 ,any tribut>y ridge on a slope across :i* a w9d is bl[+ w h a w9d-side & a lee-side1 & w accumulate sn[ on ! lee-side & give (f sn[ on ! w9d-side4 ,a /one wall or ev5 a h$ge provides an example ( ?is on a small scale4 ,sn[ driv5 by w9d & settl$ on lee-sides may ei!r be m or less p[d]y1 a d5s]1 heavi] p[d] ?an normal p[d]1 or x may assume "o ( ! _m =ms ( w9d-caus$ cru/4 ,we h describ$ on p4 #djg ! v>i\s =ms ( w9d$ p[d]1 su* z ripplem>k1 cak$ p[d]1 etc41 & on p4 #djh ! v>i\s =ms ( w9d-=m$ cru/1 su* z w9dbo>d & ,skavla4 ,9 g5]al1 ! greate/ caution %\ld be ex]cis$ :5 cross+ any slope :i* has accumulat$ mu* w9d-driv5 sn[4 ,w9d-driv5 p[d] sn[ is heavi] & m adhesive ?an ord9>y p[d]4 ,x is m deta*$ f ! und]ly+ surface1 & is mu* m conducive to avalan*es4 ,! ski-runn] %\ld keep 8 eyes op5 = traces ( w9d action1 & :5 he f9ds sn[ :i* has obvi\sly be5 expos$ to sev]e w9d1 he %\ld ex]cise ! greate/ possible caution on cross+ ov] to ! lee-side ( a ridge divid+ slopes1 :5ce ! sn[ has obvi\sly be5 bl[n away1 f slopes :]e ! w9d-driv5 sn[ may h fall5 back to e>?4 ,w9d-driv5 p[d] may 9 turn be cov]$ by a new sn[fall1 :i* adds to ! difficulties ( diagnos+ ! avalan*e risk4 ,s f> we h be5 deal+ ) w9d-driv5 sn[ :i* /ill reta9s "s sugge/ion ( p[d]1 :i* is s(t & d5se & caky4 ,a /ill m trea*]\s & dang]\s w9d =mation is ! w9d-slab1 or #8,s*neebrett1' ( ,cont95tal au?ors4 ,w9dbo>d1 z already expla9$ 7p4 #djg71 is a h>d1 slipp]y cru/ =m$ by w9d4 ,w9dbo>d is common on glaci]s 9 ! w9t] mon?s1 & ?\gh disagreeable to ski on1 x is safe en\gh 9 mo/ cases4 ,sometimes1 h[ev]1 ?is w9dbo>d1 in/ead ( be+ homog5e\s ) ! und]ly+ sn[1 is loosely atta*$1 & 9 places =ms a vault ) a holl[ space betwe5 ! w9dbo>d & ! sn[ b5ea?4 ,! w9dbo>d is1 !n1 prop]ly speak+1 a w9d-slab4 ,! w9d-slab1 or1 z "s writ]s pref] to call x1 ! sn[-slab1 is =m$ by w9d-driv5 sn[1 :i* ev5tually settles into a h>d cru/4 ,z ! w9d-drift$ sn[ is ( a diff]5t d5sity to ! sn[ on :i* x settles1 x t5ds to =m a di/9ct /ratum f ! und]ly+ sn[4 ,9 w9t] ! temp]ature is usually consid]ably bel[ freez+1 s t sn[ :i* falls1 or sn[ :i* is drift$ by ! w9d1 _c b9d ) ! sn[ bel[4 ,9 ord] = two /rata ( sn[ ( v diff]5t d5sity to =m a homog5e\s :ole1 !re mu/ be a p]iod :5 ! temp]ature is j above freez+ 9 ord] to produce ! melt+ foll[$ by fro/1 :i* is a necess>y factor 9 ! fus+ toge!r ( two successive lay]s ( diff]5t types ( sn[4 ,! w9d-drift$ sn[1 ultimately trans=m$ into a h>d cru/1 is !n ( a diff]5t d5sity to ! sn[ bel[1 to :i* x is loosely atta*$4 ,?is und]ly+ sn[ may be ei!r s(t sn[ or h>d cru/2 9 ei!r case ! w9d-slab =ms a cov]+ lay] insecurely atta*$ to ! f\ndation sn[4 ,?is sup]ficial lay] is subject to diff]5t /ra9s f ^? :i* affect ! und]ly+ sn[2 = ! t5sion due to ! expansion & contraction :i* foll[s *anges ( temp]ature affects ! lay]s =m$ ( sn[s ( diff]5t d5sity & "* 9 v>y+ ways4 ,! surface lay]1 or w9d-slab1 may contract m obvi\sly ?an ! sn[ bel[1 s t if ! slope is concave 9 %ape1 ! w9d-slab1 9 contract+1 t5ds to =m an ar* above a m or less %all[ vault4 ,!re is little if any surface indication to betray ! fact t ! w9d-slab is n homog5e\s ) ! und]ly+ sn[2 ! ski-runn] may cross "s su* slope )\t ! lea/ suspicion t ! h>d1 slipp]y cru/ is n q s solid z x appe>s4 ,sudd5ly he w he> a %>p crack+ noise2 ! h>d cru/ w settle "u him & cave 92 ! cru/ cracks along ! l9e made by 8 ski1 & ! :ole slope comes d[n on top ( him 9 a cat>act ( tumbl+ blocks4 ,! /rata =m$ by ! w9d comes away1 te>+ ) x mu* ( ! s(t und]ly+ sn[1 & p\rs d[n 9 a floor ( h>d1 icy blocks ( sn[4 ,! w9d-slab is ! mo/ dang]\s & deceptive =m ( avalan*e4 ,its h>d poli%$ surface gives a false s5se ( security4 ,! temp]ature is no guide1 = w9d-slabs c avalan*e at any temp]ature4 ,inde$1 extreme fro/ t5ds to make ! w9d-slab m brittle4 ,x c avalan*e aft] days or weeks ( f9e wea!r :5 all ! m obvi\s avalan*es h fall54 ,la/ly1 ?is w9d-slab is to be f\nd 9 ! natural l9e ( approa* to glaci] passes1 9 ! long %elt]$ av5ues t collect ! sn[ bl[n (f ! expos$ ridges4 ,x is ( prim>y importance to di/+ui% mo/ c>efully betwe5 ! cru/ =m$ by sun action & ! cru/ =m$ by w9d4 ,a s\? slope cru/$ by sun foll[$ by fro/ w nev] avalan*e s long z ! cru/ rema9s unmelt$4 ,sun-=m$ cru/s nev] avalan*e4 ,a c>eful /udy ( s\? slopes w soon tea* ! ski-runn] to recognize cru/ =m$ by sun & to di/+ui% x f cru/ =m$ by w9d4 ,! w9d-slab is usually pat*y1 granulat$1 & (t5 betrays ! action ( w9d by a slight rippl$ appe>ance4 ,! exp]t c detect w9d-=m$ cru/ & c di/+ui% x f sun-=m$ cru/4 ,! contra/ betwe5 cru/ =m$ by sun 7or by any process ( alt]nate melt+ & fro/7 & cru/ =m$ by w9d is in/ructive4 ,! fact t ! =m] is safe & ! latt] (t5 dang]\s is due n to any surface diff]5ces b to ! diff]5ce 9 ! nature ( ! connection betwe5 ! "u-surface ( ! cru/ & ! und]ly+ sn[4 ,sun-=m$ cru/ always m]ges gradually into ! und]ly+ sn[4 ,!re is no %>p plane ( cleavage4 ,! h>d cru/ m]ges into s(t] cru/2 ! s(t] cru/ into s(t sn[4 ,!re is (t51 ( c\rse1 a plane ( cleavage betwe5 two successive falls ( sn[--! upp] lay] may be s(t sn[ re/+ on cru/2 or x may be sn[ :i* is sup]ficially cru/$ re/+ on cru/4 ,& directly ! sun melts ! sup]ficial cru/ !re may be dang]4 ,b s long z cru/ =m$ by alt]nate melt+ & fro/ rema9s uns(t5$ by ! sun1 x may be deem$ to be absolutely safe s f> z avalan*es are conc]n$1 = ?is sun-=m$ cru/ w m]ge gradually into ! sn[ imm$iately bel[ x4 ,w9d-=m$ cru/ is1 h[ev]1 (t5 %>ply sep>at$ f ! sn[ und]nea? x4 ,w9d-swept cru/ may ov]lie p[d] sn[ ) no int]v5+ & s(t] cru/ to act z a b9d+ influ5ce4 ,! cru/ may be absolutely sep>ate1 susceptible to diff]5t /ra9s & t5sions1 & =m+ ! %all[ vault describ$ above4 ,%\ld y suspect a w9d-slab1 s\nd ) ! ice-axe1 & try to discov] :e!r ! sn[ is homog5e\s or re/s on a s(t /reak ( sn[ bel[4 ,if1 at ! bord] ( ! dang]\s slope1 a %>p /amp+ ) y\r ski produces a settl+ noise1 foll[$ by ! break+ away ( deta*$ fragm5ts ( sn[-slab1 y w "k t ! slab is probably insecurely pois$ on a %all[ vault bel[4 ,w9d-slabs are1 =tunately1 n v common4 ,!y c only exi/ "u w9t] conditions1 heavy sn[falls1 sev]e w9d & comp>atively weak sun action4 ,aft] ,april1 = in/ance1 ! =mation ( a w9d-slab w\ld be impossible1 = ! ,may sun is /rong en\gh to melt any cru/ =m$ by w9d or by any o!r action4 ,9 summ] !y are uncommon except+ "u unusual conditions4 ,!y sometimes occur 9 late summ]1 :5 ! sun has lo/ mu* ( its /r5g? & is no long] p[]ful en\gh to ?aw sn[ :i* has be5 conv]t$ by w9d into a w9d-slab4 ,,iv4 ,,old ,,wet ,,sn[ ,,avalan*es4--,= ! di/9ction betwe5 old wet sn[ & new wet sn[1 see p4 #dbg4 ,old wet sn[ avalan*es are v common 9 spr+4 ,! sn[1 :i* has be5 melt$ & froz51 & remelt$ aga9 & aga91 gradually becomes d5s] & heavi]4 ,z ! spr+ advances ! p[] ( ! sun becomes v great4 ,9 ! aft]noon1 & at l[] altitudes long be=e midday1 mo/ sn[ slopes are saturat$ to a great] or a less] dep? by ! melt+ p[] ( ! sun4 ,su* old wet sn[ is ( c\rse extremely dang]\s4 ,! great spr+ avalan*es1 ! #8,grundlaw95' ( ,cont95tal writ]s1 usually select well-kn[n tracks4 ,"s ( !m h local names1 & _! annual occurr5ce is z regul> z ! return ( spr+4 ,! long tongues ( b>e spaces betwe5 =e/s m>k _! track4 ,incr$ible quantities ( sn[ are torn f ! m\nta9 side2 trees are uproot$ & b\ld]s c>ri$ d[nw>ds4 ,! avalan*e comes to re/ f> bel[1 & spreads out a discol\r$ tongue ( sn[-blocks1 d>k ) ! e>? root$ f ! m\nta9 side1 & /rewn ) small trees & %rubs4 ,sometimes1 aft] an unusually sev]e w9t]1 ^! big spr+ avalan*es ext5d _! doma91 & de/roy *alets1 & bridges1 & ev5 villages4 ,roads t cross ! l9e ( ^! spr+ avalan*es mu/ be ensur$ aga9/ de/ruction by tunnels4 ,sup]ficial avalan*es ( old wet sn[ are m common ?an ^! big gr\nd avalan*es4 ,^! sup]ficial avalan*es occur daily 9 spr+ wea!r4 ,! sn[ is saturat$ ) wat]1 :i* acts z a lubricant betwe5 "o lay] ( sn[ & ! h>d] cru/ b5ea?4 ,sometimes avalan*es are />t$ by ! sn[ ?aw+ f ! gr\nd upw>ds1 = ! gr\nd 9 ! late spr+ is w>m en\gh to ?aw ! sn[ imm$iately above x4 ,i h se5 a vault "o foot 9 height betwe5 ! gr\nd & ! ov]ly+ sn[4 ,! p[] ( avalan*es is be/ appreciat$ by ^? :o h visit$ ! ,alps 9 ,may4 ,x is an int]e/+1 if annoy+1 exp]i5ce to be conf9$ to "s high alp9e club hut 9 ,may by a sudd5 invasion ( ,fhn4 ,if ! club hut c only be approa*$ ov] /eep gr\nd or up a /eep & n>r[ valley1 !re is no?+ to be done b to wait till ! ,fhn disappe>s4 ,h>dly a m9ute passes )\t an avalan*e fall+ (f "s ne> or di/ant slope4 ,! ro> ( big avalan*es is v>i$ by ! hiss ( ! small] sn[-slides4 ,?\s&s ( tons ( sn[ are remov$ f ! /eep] slopes e h\r4 ,old wet sn[ avalan*es are mu* m deadly ?an avalan*es =m$ ( new sn[4 ,newly fall5 sn[ weighs ab\t #a cwt4 ! cubic y>d4 ,old wet spr+ sn[ weighs ab\t #ae cwt4 or ( a ton ! cubic y>d--9 o!r words1 t5 times z mu* z newly fall5 sn[4 ,fur!rmore1 if y are ov]:elm$ by old wet sn[1 y w f9d ! v greate/ difficulty 9 free+ y\rself1 ev5 if y are only cov]$ by a lay] a foot or s 9 dep?4 ,p[d] sn[ conta9s a great deal ( air1 s t y c live = "s "t ev5 if buri$ 9 a p[d] avalan*e1 b ! wet spr+ sn[ conta9s no?+ b wat]1 & suffocation is a matt] ( m9utes4 ,:5ev] ! ,fhn bl[s 9 spr+1 all slopes above a v mod]ate degree ( /eepness imm$iately become extremely dang]\s4 ,9 normal cle> wea!r !re is a fro/ at night1 s t any slope1 h[ev] /eep1 c be cross$ )\t fe> ( avalan*es betwe5 sunset & dawn4 ,z soon z ! sup]ficial s(t cru/ beg9s to =m on ! wet sn[ all dang] ( avalan*es disappe>s4 ,on ! l[] slopes 9 ,may1 ! int]val aft] ! dawn dur+ :i* a /eep slope may be cross$ ) safety v>ies greatly4 ,9 ,may h>d cru/ s(t5s ) surpris+ spe$1 & aft] #i a4m41 or ev5 e>li]1 ! risk ( avalan*es bel[ ! glaci] level soon becomes =midable4 ,a vital di/9ction mu/ be drawn betwe5 ! k9d ( s(t5+ t is produc$ :5 a solid homog5e\s cru/ s(t5s sup]ficially1 & ! melt+ ( a sup]ficial lay] or cru/ re/+ on an old] cru/ bel[4 ,! second case occurs :5 a lay] ( s(t sn[1 or ( cru/1 re/s on ! old] /rata ( cru/4 ,once ?is new lay] has melt$ x is v liable to slide (f f ! old] lay] bel[4 ,on ! o!r h&1 a homog5e\s cru/ s(t5+ sup]ficially is usually safe en\gh s long z ! und]ly+ cru/ rema9s h>d4 ,telem>k cru/1 :i* is cru/ s(t5$ sup]ficially s t ,telem>ks are easy 7p4 #dae71 is usually safe4 ,! great dang] is ! exi/5ce ( a lay] ( cru/ =m$ by a rec5t sn[fall re/+ on an old] lay]4 ,i 0 once climb+ ! /eep slopes t lead f ,z9al to ! ,m\ntet glaci]4 ,x 0 on ! la/ day ( ,april1 & ! sun _h j /ruck ! slope4 ,! local guide 0 lead+1 & ,i v5tur$ to sugge/ a det\r to avoid a trav]se across a slope t _h begun to s(t54 ,he ignor$ ! risk1 & proce$$4 ,i rema9$ beh9d & wat*$ him4 ,sudd5ly a lay] ( sn[ ab\t six in*es 9 ?ickness1 :i* _h s(t5$ d[n to ! old h>d cru/ b5ea?1 slid away ) />tl+ rapidity4 ,! guide gave a small jump1 & got 8 ski into ! old lay]1 :ile ! s(t5$ sn[ slid away & disappe>$ ov] ! cliff bel[4 ,! guide's top ski _h cut ?r\gh to ! old lay] be=e ! sn[ slipp$1 o!rwise he w\ld h be5 kill$4 ,9 ,may 9 ! ,high ,alps ! risks ( su* avalan*es is small on all save v /eep slopes4 ,mo/ ( ! big spr+ avalan*es fall bel[ ! limits ( ! summ] sn[l9e4 ,!y slide (f slopes :i* are b>e ( sn[ 9 summ]4 ,once ! region ( ! nvs is rea*$ ! dang] is v mu* less1 ?\gh ( c\rse by no means non-exi/5t1 especially :5 ! ,fhn is bl[+4 ,! ,may ski-runn] mu/ (t5 "t 8 asc5t to a club hut to arrive 9 ! e>ly h\rs ( ! morn+1 & wait = 8 desc5t f ! glaci]s to ! l[] valleys = ! h\r aft] sunset4 ,z ! w9t] advances ! dang] f avalan*es increases1 n only because ! quantity ( sn[ increases & because ! sun is m p[]ful & ! temp]ature high]1 b also because ! inequalities on ! und]ly+ surface gradually disappe>4 ,scree1 small b\ld]s1 %rubs & o!r natural *ecks to ! fl[ ( an avalan*e vani% 9 ! ev]-deep5+ sn[4 ,roads & small %elv+ plateaus1 :i* break up a /eep slope1 get buri$4 ,ea* succe$+ avalan*e leaves "s ( its burd5 on all protrud+ %elves1 & !reby t5ds to smoo? out ! m\nta9 side1 creat+1 9 place ( a slope brok5 by inequalities1 "o long1 ev5 fl[ :i* pres5ts no h9drance to ! avalan*e4 ,?us big avalan*es t5d to take ! place ( ! small] avalan*es :i* fell d[n "p ( ! slope1 only to be arre/$ at "s conv5i5t t]race1 su* z a road or small plateau4 ,9 ! spr+ avalan*es (t5 fall "r across riv]s1 :i* v soon =m a tunnel b5ea? ! sn[-bridge ( ! avalan*e4 ,su* sn[-bridges %\ld be cross$ ) caution4 ,m ?an "o ski-runn] has be5 kill$ by break+ ?r\gh ! rema9s ( an avalan*e into a riv]4 ,x is a common illusion among ! inexp]i5c$ t nor? slopes are saf] ?an s\? slopes 9 spr+4 ,!y are n--9 fact1 nor? slopes are m dang]\s ?an s\? slopes4 ,9 spr+ x is ! g5]al air temp]ature :i* det]m9es ! fall ( avalan*es4 ,true1 ! s\? slopes avalan*e fir/1 & = ?is reason nor? slopes hold mu* m sn[1 s t :5 !y f9ally get rid ( _! sup]flu\s sn[ !y produce f> & away ! mo/ de/ructive avalan*es4 ,( c\rse 9 spr+ ! sun %9es on all slopes1 & x %9es ) q suffici5t =ce ev5 on due nor? slopes to produce an avalan*e4 ,9 fact1 ! really great spr+ avalan*es are ^? :i* fall f nor!rly slopes4 ,,summ] ,,sn[ ,,avalan*es ,dur+ ! summ] mon?s1 z already expla9$1 e type ( sn[ c be f\nd 9 ! ,high ,alps f pure w9t] p[d] to ! numb]less v>ieties ( spr+ cru/s & spr+ s(t sn[4 ,x foll[s t avalan*es 9 summ] obey ! same laws z 9 spr+4 ,!re are f> few] avalan*es 9 summ] ?an 9 spr+1 = !re is f> less sn[ to fall4 ,q en\gh1 h[ev]1 is left to make ! avalan*e problem ( vital importance = ! ski-runn] & ! summ] climb]4 ,! v>i\s types ( avalan*es describ$ 9 ?is *apt] are n conf9$ to w9t] or spr+1 ) ! possible exception ( ! w9d-slab avalan*e4 ,i %\ld h said1 a priori1 t w9d-slab avalan*es 7 peculi> to w9t] & ! e>ly spr+1 = !y dep5d = _! exi/5ce on sn[ fall+ at a v l[ temp]ature1 & on ! sn[fall be+ foll[$ by /rong & cold w9ds be=e ! sun has "t to melt ! sn[ & to b9d x into ! und]ly+ surface4 ,i am told by ,mr4 ,"y t he has se5 w9d-slab avalan*es 9 summ]--probably1 ,i %\ld imag9e1 9 ! v late summ] or e>ly autumn1 :5 ! conditions beg9 to approximate to w9t] conditions4 ,ap>t1 !n1 f w9d-slab avalan*es1 :i* mu/ be v uncommon 9 summ]1 all ! o!r types are by no means unusual4 ,avalan*es ( p[d] sn[1 ( old wet sn[ & new wet sn[ c occur at any mon? ( ! ye>4 ,x is n necess>y to give sep>ate rules = summ] & = spr+4 ,! important factors 9 ! problem are n s mu* ! season z ! am\nt ( sn[ t has fall51 ! temp]ature1 ! angle ( ! sun1 etc4 etc4 ,if ! read] ?or\ghly und]/&s avalan*e craft 9 w9t] & 9 spr+1 he %\ld be able to cope ) ! same or ) simil> problems 9 summ]4 ,! majority ( fatal avalan*e accid5ts 9 summ] are due to sn[ slides4 ,i h = conv5i5ce' sake adopt$ ! arbitr>y di/9ction ( avalan*es into avalan*es prop]--^? :i* are dang]\s ow+ to ! weight & quantity ( ! sn[ t falls--& sn[-slides1 :i* are only dang]\s 9 s f> z !y c>ry ! climb] or ski-runn] ) !m ov] a cliff or into a crevasse4 ,mo/ summ] avalan*e accid5ts are due to sn[ slides1 & occur 9 places :i* ! ski-runn] c\ld n rea* on ski4 ,sn[ re/+ on ice 9 gullies1 or sn[ re/+ on smoo? slabs1 etc41 are frequ5t causes ( fatal accid5ts4 ,su* avalan*es or sn[-slides h be5 describ$ by ,mr4 ,"y4 ,! classical device = te/+ :e!r sn[ is re/+ on ice--i4e4 ?r[+ a big rock d[n ! suspici\s slope--is (t5 ( use to a ski-runn] :o is 9 d\bt :e!r to desc5d a d\btful slope on ski or on foot4 ,,tactics ,,on ,,avalan*e ,,gr\nd ,! simple/ rule is to avoid avalan*e gr\nd4 ,un=tunately1 ?is is n always possible4 ,! limits ( dang] are s wide t "o may occasionally f9d oneself on a slope :i* might conceivably avalan*e4 ,su* a slope may provide ! only possible means ( gett+ d[n to ! valley1 s t ! *oice is n m]ely betwe5 giv+ up an exp$ition or risk+ an avalan*e1 b betwe5 ! c]ta9ty ( a night out if "o recrosses ! pass & ! possibility ( an avalan*e4 ,x has sometimes be5 ass]t$ t a ski-runn] c\ld escape an avalan*e by turn+ 8 ski d[nhill & mak+ a sudd5 dive d[nw>d4 ,( c\rse ?is is wildly absurd4 ,i h only once be5 caught 9 an avalan*e1 &1 long be=e ,i c\ld h turn$ my ski d[nhill1 ! avalan*e _h c>ri$ me "s tw5ty y>ds d[nhill4 ,an avalan*e does n />t by a k9d ( sn[ball action4 ,x />ts ) a %>p crack1 & ! sudd5 slid+ away ( a deep lay] ( sn[4 ,wat* sn[ slid+ (f a ro( & y w und]/& t an avalan*e is v sudd5 & ov]:elm+4 ,almo/ e avalan*e leaves a clean l9e ( cleavage beh9d--a wall ( sn[ :i* is exactly z deep z ! avalan*e at its bir?4 ,! *ance ( escap+ an avalan*e by flight is inf9itesimal if y are ne> ! po9t :]e ! avalan*e />ts4 ,y are lucky if y h "t en\gh to kick y\r ski (f1 & y w only be able to d ?is if y h unloos5$ ! b9d+s previ\s to cross+ ! dang]\s slope4 ,!re w be no *ance ( un/rapp+ !m once ! avalan*e is ^u y4 ,if y _c kick !m (f in/antane\sly1 !y w rema9 atta*$ to y4 ,y\r *ance ( surviv+ is v mu* great] if y c get rid ( y\r ski1 = ! ski drag y "u1 & prev5t all hope ( fight+ y\r way to ! surface ( ! avalan*e4 ,once y are ov]:elm$ y %\ld adopt a swimm+ motion4 ,above all1 try to keep y\r head upp]mo/4 ,a vigor\s swimm+ motion ) ! h&s is said to be useful by p :o h surviv$4 ,dang]\s slopes %\ld always be cross$ z high z possible4 ,an avalan*e is mu* m dang]\s if x ov]:elms y f above ?an if x />ts f ! imm$iate neighb\rhood ( y\r ski4 ,/eep slopes bel[ a cliff usually yield a fairly safe passage j bel[ ! rocks1 = !re is (t5 a little gap betwe5 ! edge ( ! sn[ & ! rocks :i* af=ds a secure r\te4 ,take advantage ( e belt or %elf ( g5tl] gr\nd t may run across a /eep slope4 ,traces ( old roads or ev5 ( footpa?s are bett] ?an no?+4 ,cle>ly a man on ski is mu* m likely to />t an avalan*e ?an a man on foot4 ,i h (t5 be5 surpris$ to see *amois-tracks d[n slopes #dj-ej degrees /eep4 ,x is true *amois occasionally get kill$ by avalan*es1 b !y c]ta9ly possess a great immunity4 ,! reason is obvi\s4 ,! *amois' sl5d] ho(s s9k 9 v deeply4 ,!y p5etrate "r ?r\gh ! sn[ to any h>d und]ly+ cru/ t !re may be b5ea?4 ,fur!r1 ! *amois does n1 l ! ski-runn]1 cut ! sn[ by a cont9u\s l9e :i* divides ! slope 9 two1 & deprives ! sn[ above ! ski-tracks ( mu* ( its support4 ,*amois-tracks =m a r[ ( small holes1 & !re=e h a mu* less unsettl+ effect4 ,a man on foot has "s ( ! advantages ( ! *amois4 ,he is at lea/ mu* saf] ?an on ski4 ,8 feet get d[n to ! old cru/ bel[ unless ! s(t sn[ is v deep4 ,on ski x is extremely easy to />t a small sup]ficial avalan*e or sn[-slide2 & on ski x is v difficult to *eck su* a small or big avalan*e once x is />t$4 ,! ski may s9k j into ! sup]ficial lay] & help to deta* x4 ,on dang]\s gr\nd y %\ld !re=e remove ! ski & proce$ on foot4 ,if possible1 tackle su* slopes by a direct asc5t or desc5t 9 s+le file4 ,trav]s+ is mu* m likely to cut ! sn[ slope & />t an avalan*e4 ,nev] rope on avalan*e gr\nd unless "o memb] ( ! p>ty c rema9 on safe gr\nd1 i4e4 a clu/] ( rocks1 & secure ! man :o is trav]s+ a %ort /ret* ( dang]\s sn[4 ,if two or ?ree ski-runn]s are caught by an avalan*e :ile rop$ toge!r1 _! *ance ( escape is slight1 z ! rope t5ds to get caught1 to drag !m "u ! sn[ & to suffocate !m4 ,dang]\s gr\nd %\ld1 ( c\rse1 be cross$ by only "o man at a "t4 ,x has be5 sugge/$ by an exp]i5c$ m\nta9e] t ea* memb] ( ! p>ty %\ld drag beh9d him a long ?9 r$ cord1 :i* w\ld provide a clue to ! :]eab\ts ( a man :o _h be5 buri$ by an avalan*e4 ,! ski-+ m\nta9e]'s kit is already s ov]*>g$ t few p w\ld be likely to add to x = ?is purpose4 ,= ! desc5t ( dang]\s slopes1 if ! p>ty d n proce$ on foot1 !y %\ld put on _! sealsk9s1 s z to run ! slopes z /eeply & directly z possible4 ,! ice-axe %\ld always be driv5 9 z f> z possible1 s z to f9d pur*ase 9 ! und]ly+ sn[4 ,ski-/icks t are provid$ ) removable disks are v useful1 z !y c be driv5 9 mu* deep] ?an ord9>y ski-/icks4 ,:5 9 d\bt1 s\nd ) an axe or /ick & try to discov] :e!r ! sn[ is homog5e\s1 & if n1 :at lies bel[ ! surface lay] & :at lies bel[ ! sn[ itself4 ,:5 9 d\bt1 turn back if possible4 ,if x is necess>y to proce$1 take (f y\r ski4 ,if spe$ is important1 keep on y\r ski2 & if y are desc5d+1 put on sealsk9s4 ,if y _c sp>e ! "t to put on sealsk9s1 sit on y\r ski & desc5d by a sitt+ ski-glissade1 :i* is1 by ! way1 a knack 9 itself4 ,,! ,,high ,,alps ,,9 ,,w9t] ,sid5ote3 ,wea!r ,conditions4 ,! wea!r aft] ! ,new ,ye> is usually m settl$ ?an 9 ! summ]4 ,a spell ( absolutely unbrok5 wea!r la/+ f ?ree weeks to a mon? or m is almo/ inevitable "s "t 9 ,janu>y or ,febru>y4 ,z a rule1 ,febru>y is ! f9e/ mon? 9 ! w9t]4 ,^! typical f9e-wea!r p]iods are (t5 accompani$ by mild wea!r4 ,! temp]ature ev5 by night is (t5 surpris+ly high on ! glaci]s1 ev5 :5 !re is no t\* ( ,fhn 9 ! air4 ,?is has l$ "s obs]v]s to claim t ! temp]ature 9 w9t]--ev5 9 ! %ade--is (t5 l[] 9 ! valleys ?an on ! m\nta9s4 ,i h nev] se5 any evid5ce produc$ = ! ph5om5on :i* has be5 romantically describ$ z #8inv]t$ temp]ature1' & h no reason to believe t any su* violation ( ! laws ( temp]ature really exi/s4 ,x is (t51 ( c\rse1 cold] 9 ! pla9s :5 ! pla9s are cov]$ by nebelme] ?an 9 sunny alp9e /ations1 b ?is is v diff]5t to any g5]al inv]sion ( temp]ature4 ,i h1 x is true1 sat on ! summit ( ! ,f9/]a>horn 9 midw9t] /ripp$ to ! wai/1 & ,i h (t5 be5 uncom=tably hot at great altitudes 9 ! sun4 ,b x is dang]\s to g5]alize f su* exp]i5ces1 & ?\gh on a w9dless day1 w9t] m\nta9e]+ may be z w>m & com=table z summ] climb+1 ! ski-runn] mu/ always be prep>$ = sudd5 dang] ( temp]ature1 & sev]e cold4 ,! v>iations 9 temp]ature are surpris+4 ,a cu%ion ( cold air1 sev]al degrees bel[ freez+1 may exi/ ne> ! surface ( ! sn[1 & ?ree feet above ! surface ( ! sn[ ! air may be q mild4 ,?is is a ph5om5on well kn[n to r9k-mak]s4 ,9 ! sun ! heat may be q int5se1 & yet1 a few y>ds (f1 9 ! %ade ! temp]ature may be sev]al degrees bel[ freez+4 ,a suspicion ( w9d may trans=m a mild & equable into an unpleasantly cold atmosph]e4 ,! *anges ( temp]ature are v sudd54 ,y may be bask+ 9 %irt-sleeves on "o side ( a ridge1 & be fro/-bitt5 )9 a few m9utes on turn+ a corn] into ! w9d4 ,! great dang] ( w9t] m\nta9e]+ is ! risk ( a sudd5 *ange ( wea!r4 ,/orms seem to bl[ up out ( cle> skies ) a sudd5ness to :i* summ] af=ds no p>allel4 ,! man :o is caught 9 a big w9t] /orm is lucky if he escapes )\t casualty4 ,a driv+ w9d makes ski-+ almo/ impossible4 ,! sn[ is bl[n into "o's face1 & 9 a few m9utes "o's eyela%es are gumm$ up ) m9iature icicles4 ,! big /orms t sometimes prevail = m ?an a week at a "t may imprison ! climb] 9 a club hut until all 8 provisions are exhau/$4 ,f mo/ club huts escape is completely impossible till ! /orm drops4 ,ev5 :5 ! /orm has giv5 place to f9e wea!r1 retreat may be v dang]\s ow+ to ! avalan*e p]il4 ,"u fair conditions w9t] m\nta9e]+ is (t5 surpris+ly easy4 ,m5 :o h enjoy$ unbrok5 good luck ) _! wea!r are tempt$ to disc\nt ! v real dang]s ( m\nta9e]+ 9 w9t]1 & to adopt a p>adoxical attitude t[>ds ! ,alps 9 w9t]1 imply+ t ! only dang] to be fe>$ is sun/roke & sn[-bl9dness4 ,^? :o h n be5 s uni=mly lucky realize t w9t] m\nta9e]+ on a big scale is a sport f :i* ! elem5t ( dang] w nev] be lack+2 t a sudd5 /orm may trans=m ev5 an easy exp$ition into a desp]ate /ruggle = safety4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,approa*es to ! ,high ,alps4 ,(t5 ! mo/ difficult1 & sometimes ! mo/ dang]\s1 "p ( a w9t] exp$ition 9 ! ,high ,alps is ! fir/ day's m>* to ! club hut4 ,once ! upp] regions are atta9$1 progress is usually fairly /raight=w>d4 ,x is q normal = ski-runn]s to make ne>ly z good "t on ! asc5t ( a sn[-peak z summ] climb]s1 b x is v r>e inde$ t ! club hut is rea*$ 9 any?+ approa*+ summ] "t4 ,f "o & a half to twice z long mu/ be all[$ = ! asc5t to mo/ club huts4 ,! long1 n>r[ valleys t s (t5 lead to huts are usually v deep 9 s(t p[d]y sn[1 s t progress mu/ be sl[1 :]eas 9 ! upp] regions ! sn[ is usually m or less pack$ by ! w9d1 :i* makes = easi] go+ on ! asc5t1 ev5 ?\gh ! desc5t may be f> f pleasant4 ,moreov]1 ! dang] f avalan*es is usually mu* m s]i\s 9 ! l[] regions1 :]e ! slopes are mu* /eep] & ! valleys n>r[]4 ,on ! fir/ day's m>* ! guides w be heavily load$1 = ! full equipm5t = a s]i\s exp$ition 9 ! ,high ,alps is v mu* m bulky & weighty ?an t necess>y 9 summ]4 ,9 ! fir/ place1 no prud5t ski-runn] commits himself to a ,high ,alp t\r )\t ample res]ves ( food4 ,he mu/ all[ = ! dang] ( f9d+ himself /ormb\nd 9 a hut = a p]iod :i* may be any?+ f a day to a =tnight4 ,pl5ty ( compress$ res]ve food is ess5tial until ! club huts beg9 to /ore em]g5cy rations4 ,fur!r1 z a brok5 ski may involve s]i\s consequ5ces1 he mu/ burd5 himself ) sp>e ski-tips & all ! app>atus = m5d+ ski4 ,extra clo!s1 pl5ty ( gloves1 &1 ( c\rse1 crampons add to ! ov]burd5$ rucksacks4 ,unless "o is prep>$ to c>ry v heavy sacks x does n pay to economize 9 port]s4 ,z a rule1 y %\ld reckon two guides or port]s = e memb] ( ! p>ty if y contemplate an exp$ition ( "s five to six days 9 l5g?1 unless1 ( c\rse1 y are prep>$ to c>ry "s ?irty p\nds or s 9 y\r own sack = ! fir/ day4 ,( c\rse1 if y take two port]s to ! hut1 !y may be s5t back f ! hut2 b x is obvi\sly unfair to expect a solit>y port] to make ! desc5t alone4 ,ev]y?+ %\ld be done to make matt]s easy4 ,if ! fir/ "p ( ! asc5t lies up a pa? or a wood-track1 a boy %\ld be hir$ to c>ry y\r ski4 ,if ! asc5t beg9s f "s out-(-!-way alp9e valley1 x w (t5 pay to s5d a guide on ahead ! day be=e to make tracks = "p ( ! di/ance 9 s(t sn[4 ,?is is especially useful if y are attempt+ a v big climb f "o ( ! r high] alp9e valleys or m\nta9 inns )\t us+ a club hut4 ,x is unwise to reckon on climb+ m ?an an av]age ( #ejj feet p] h\r = ! fir/ day4 ,an e>ly />t is ess5tial4 ,! longe/ days pass fairly com=tably if y break !m up ) frequ5t %ort halts & %ort fe$s4 ,x is (t5 impossible 9 w9t] to make a prolong$ halt ow+ to ! cold4 ,a few c>amels or "s *ocolate1 :i* c be easily got at1 %\ld be kept 9 "o's pocket1 & mun*$ dur+ %ort halts4 ,napoleon's rule ( a %ort re/ & some?+ to eat e h\r is a good rule = climb]s1 especially w9t] climb]s :o are heavily lad54 ,! huts z a rule are com=table en\gh 9 w9t]1 ?\gh ! /oves (t5 prove tr\blesome4 ,wood is usually kept 9 l>ge quantities1 br\ght up at ! end ( ! autumn1 ?\gh x is z well to make inquiries on ?is po9t be=e />t+4 ,on rea*+ ! hut1 set ! an]oid b>omet] usually f\nd 9 mo/ huts4 ,a pocket-b>omet] is n s reliable1 =1 z ,:ymp] po9t$ out & conclusively prov$1 ! usual an]oid t5ds to lose on ! m]curial4 ,9 o!r words1 if y c>ry a pocket-an]oid up "s ?\s&s ( feet & !n set x at ! hut1 x w usually fall a po9t dur+ ! night1 :]e a m]curial b>omet] w\ld h rema9$ /ation>y4 ,s1 too1 if y desc5d f a peak to a hut1 ! pocket-an]oid w rise :]e a m]curial w\ld rema9 /ation>y1 !reby (t5 convey+ v dang]\s & mislead+ in=mation4 ,x is mo/ important to set ! hut an]oid1 s z to h "s w>n+ ( ! approa* ( a sudd5 /orm4 ,if y are unlucky en\gh to be caught by bad wea!r 9 a hut1 & if y\r provisions run %ort1 y %\ld sp5d z mu* ( y\r "t z possible ly+ d[n & keep+ w>m1 = ! less ex]cise y take ! less food y w ne$4 ,p :o practise ! #8fa/ cure' h prov$ t a man c g )\t any food = a week & c>ry on 8 ord9>y bus9ess )\t feel+ unduly weak5$4 ,x is !re=e 9 e way bett] to /ay at ! hut fa/+--ev5 = ?ree or f\r days--?an to attempt to desc5d 9 a bad /orm4 ,if ! wor/ comes to ! wor/1 & ! p>ty is ?or\ghly weak5$ by lack ( food1 !y c always /ay at ! hut & await ! se>* p>ty4 ,if a sally is attempt$ 9 bad wea!r f a hut :i* is situat$ among glaci] sn[-fields1 x is advisable to cut up a numb] ( small /akes f ! firewood4 ,^! c be plant$ 9 ! sn[ at int]vals ( a hundr$ y>ds or s 9 ord] t a retreat c always be made back to ! hut if fur!r advance is impossible4 ,sid5ote3 ,sn[ ,conditions 9 ! ,high ,alps4 ,if ! ,alps 7 w9dless1 ! sn[ t falls betwe5 ,novemb] & ! end ( ,febru>y w\ld rema9 p[d]y & unspoil$ on all save v /eep s\? slopes4 ,at high altitudes ! sun is p[]less to affect ! sn[ 9 midw9t] on g5tle s\? slopes4 ,! sn[ w\ld rema9 p[d]y on nor!rn slopes till ! middle ( ,april b = w9d4 ,un=tunately1 ! ,high ,alps are swept by w9d1 m especially dur+ long spells ( f9e cl\dless wea!r1 dur+ :i* ! #8bise1' or nor? w9d1 sweeps across all expos$ ridges & faces4 ,consequ5tly1 ! sn[ seldom rema9s long unspoil$4 ,9 %elt]$ glaci] valleys x may reta9 its p[d]y condition1 b on all m or less expos$ slopes x soon h>d5s4 ,( c\rse1 if an exp$ition is plann$ )9 two or ?ree days ( a fre% sn[fall1 ! p>ty may h p]fect p[d] sn[2 b su* sn[ is ! exception 9 w9t] 9 ! ,high ,alps1 :]eas x is ! rule 9 spr+4 ,sid5ote3 ,rock ,ridges & ,ice ,slopes4 ,rock climb+ does n prop]ly come )9 ! scope ( m\nta9e]+ on ski2 b s _m ski-runn]s comb9e a ski t\r ) a f9al scramble up a rock ridge1 su* z ! la/ arte ( ,monte ,rosa or ! ,z9al ,ro?horn1 t "s discussion ( ! condition ( rocks & ice slopes 9 w9t] is ess5tial4 ,z a rule1 rock ridges are z dry1 or dri]1 9 w9t] ?an 9 summ]4 ,sn[ t falls 9 summ] (t5 falls at a temp]ature little bel[ freez+4 ,x is (t5 mo/ adhesive /uff4 ,! /rong summ] sun foll[$ by fro/s at night turns ?is sn[ into cru/1 or at lea/ into sn[ ) a consid]able p[] ( /ick+ to ! rocks4 ,9 summ] x is (t5 sev]al days be=e ! big rock peaks w g aft] a heavy sn[fall4 ,b 9 w9t] ! sn[ t falls 9 ! ,high ,alps is light & p[d]y4 ,! l[ temp]atures & ! r$uc$ p[] ( ! sun prev5t ! sn[ melt+2 x reta9s its light p[d]y "*1 & is swept away f expos$ ridges by ! w9d4 ,x (f]s no resi/ance to ! w9d1 = x is compos$ ( light dry cry/als ) no cohesive or adhesive p[]4 ,consequ5tly1 ! rock ridges 9 ! w9t] are (t5 fre] f sn[ ?an 9 av]age summ] wea!r1 :i* is a mixture ( good & bad4 ,9 w9t]1 cornices h little *ance ( =m+4 ,9 fact1 if ! wea!r is mild & ! ridge w9dless on ! day ( ! asc5t1 x is sc>cely m difficult to climb a rock ridge ( av]age difficulty 9 w9t] ?an 9 summ]4 ,s\? ridges are1 ( c\rse1 mu* w>m] ?an nor? ridges1 b !y are n necess>ily m free ( sn[2 = ! ag5t t r$uces ! sn[ on ! rock ridges is n ! sun--p[]less z a melt+ ag5t at ^! altitudes 9 w9t]--b ! w9d2 & 9 f9e wea!r ! w9d1 z (t5 z n1 bl[s f ! nor?4 ,( c\rse1 if ! nor? w9d is bl[+1 a nor? ridge may be impossible1 = ! rocks promptly become extremely cold to t\*1 s t 9 g5]al x is wise/ to select s\? rock ridges 9 pref]5ce to nor?4 ,none ! less1 rock ridges fac+ nor?1 su* z ! nor? ridge ( ! ,z9al ,ro?horn or ! nor? ridge ( ! ,gspalt5horn1 h be5 climb$ )\t difficulty 9 midw9t]4#bb ,! same causes :i* keep ! rock ridges comp>atively free f sn[ t5d to remove any sn[ t may fall on to /eep ice slopes4 ,inexp]i5c$ w9t] m\nta9e]s are (t5 surpris$ to f9d z mu* or m ice on summit slopes 9 w9t] ?an 9 summ]4 ,z a matt] ( fact1 !re is (t5 q z mu* ice on /eep expos$ slopes 9 w9t] z 9 summ]4 ,an ice slope is trans=m$ into a sn[ slope :5 fall+ sn[ is accompani$ by a temp]ature j above freez+-po9t--9 o!r words1 :5 ! sn[ is v ne>ly sleet4 ,su* sn[ adh]es to ! und]ly+ ice1 & by ! normal process ( alt]nate ?aw & fro/ becomes m & m firmly atta*$4 ,! next sn[fall t occurs atta*es itself to ! und]ly+ ?9 /ratum ( sn[ cru/ ly+ on ice1 s t 9 ! c\rse ( "t ! ice slope is cov]$ by a compact & reliable lay] ( cru/$ sn[4 ,b ! dry p[d] ( midw9t] has no *ance ( f9d+ a p]man5t re/+-place on /eep ice4 ,! fir/ /rong w9d t bl[s w remove x4 ,_m slopes v>y f season to season & f mon? to mon?4 ,sometimes !y are ice1 sometimes sn[4 ,su* slopes1 if !y are ice 9 ,octob]1 w rema9 ice until ! foll[+ spr+4 ,may & ,june are ! mon?s 9 :i* ! conv]sion ( ice slopes into sn[ slopes usually takes place4 ,,glaci]s ,,9 ,,w9t] ,! light p[d] sn[ :i* is swept f rock & ice ridges is deposit$ on ! broad glaci] sn[-fields1 :i* !re=e receive m ?an _! fair %>e ( sn[4 ,9 midw9t] !re are few op5 crevasses to be se51 save at ! icefalls1 & mo/ traces ( conceal$ crevasses disappe> f ! upp] nvs4 ,none ! less1 ! dang] f conceal$ crevasses is by no means trivial4 ,! dry p[d] sn[ =ms ! mo/ brittle ( sn[-bridges4 ,9 ! ,gr5z glaci] accid5t a sn[-bridge f\rte5 feet ?ick collaps$ b5ea? a p>ty ( ski-runn]s4 ,( c\rse1 soon] or lat]1 mo/ crevasses are bridg$1 n only by p[d] sn[1 b v>i\s =ms ( w9d-driv5 sn[ & w9d-=m$ cru/4 ,su* cru/ is1 ( c\rse1 less brittle ?an p[d] sn[-bridges1 b x is q brittle en\gh4 ,! l[ temp]ature t5ds to increase ! brittl5ess ( sn[-bridges4 ,9 ! e>ly h\rs ( a summ] morn+ a sn[-bridge two or ?ree in*es ?ick w usually be safe en\gh2 = su* bridges are g5]ally =m$ ( a mixture ( ice & h>d sn[ :i* is due to alt]nate melt+ & freez+4 ,su* cru/ is mu* m compact1 m solid1 & f> less brittle ?an cru/ =m$ by w9d4 ,glaci]s are1 9 fact1 saf] 9 summ] ?an 9 w9t]2 = ?\gh !re are _m m crevasses op51 !re are f> few] dang]\s crevasses ^: exi/5ce _c easily be detect$4 ,! droop on ! sn[ & o!r unmi/akable signs 9 ord9>y seasons betray mo/ conceal$ crevasses to ! exp]i5c$ eye4 ,9 w9t] ! w9ds are s p[]ful1 & _! effect is s mu* great] 7= reasons expla9$ on pp4 #ddf-ddg71 t !y oblit]ate all traces ( und]ly+ crevasses4 ,! surface ( ! sn[ is app>5tly "o uni=m field ( w9d-driv5 sn[1 & ev5 ! mo/ exp]t _c possibly detect ! pres5ce ( conceal$ crevasses4 ,?is raises ! v vex$ "q ( ski-+ on a rope4 ,x is q easy ) a little practice to ski at a reasonably high spe$ on a rope1 & to make comb9$ sw+s4 ,rop$ runn+ is1 9 fact1 q enjoyable1 b x is n1 & nev] c be1 z enjoyable or z easy z free ski-+4 ,consequ5tly1 _m ski-runn]s w nev] cons5t to rope on ! desc5t1 save on glaci]s1 :i* are kn[n to be badly crevass$4 ,!re are ?ree me?ods ( ski-+ on a glaci]3 #a4 ,a ,rop$ ,desc5t4--,= ! te*nique ( ski-+ on a rope1 see pp4 #deb-def4 #b4 ,a ,desc5t 9 exactly ! same ,tracks z 7 us$ = ! ,asc5t4--,?is me?od is bas$ on ! presumption t a sn[-bridge :i* held 9 ! morn+ dur+ ! asc5t w hold dur+ ! desc5t4 ,obvi\sly ! /ra9 is mu* less dur+ ! fa/ desc5t ?an dur+ ! climb4 ,also1 z ! v>iations ( temp]ature 9 w9t] are ( no great importance1 provid$ t ! temp]ature rema9s bel[ freez+1 a sn[-bridge :i* holds 9 ! morn+ %\ld hold 9 ! aft]noon1 ?\gh ! same _c1 ( c\rse1 be said 9 summ]4 ,z ! tracks ( ! asc5t 7 presumably made on sealsk9s1 ! desc5t mu/ also be made on sealsk9s if x be desir$ to foll[ ) any accuracy ! l9e ( ! asc5t & to avoid rapid sw+s & turns :i* are liable to te/ sev]ely a sn[-bridge /rong en\gh to resi/ ! ord9>y uphill track4 ,= my "p1 ?\gh ?is me?od is sometimes us$1 ,i consid] t ! necessity to we> sk9s & to keep exactly along "o l9e is j z tr\blesome & n ne>ly s safe z ! rope4 ,:at usually happ5s :5 p />t a desc5t )\t sk9s1 b ) ! pi\s int5tion ( keep+ to ! uphill tracks1 is t !y v soon f9d !mselves curv+ & sw++ "s consid]able di/ance f _! old tracks4 #c4 ,a ,free ,desc5t ,unrop$4--,if y disc>d ! rope1 y %\ld be d\bly c>eful to r$uce risk to a m9imum by pay+ att5tion to ! g5]al laws ( crevasse =mation4 ,! middle ( a glaci] is usually ! safe/ "p ( ! glaci] 9 w9t]4 ,lat]al crevasses1 i4e4 crevasses at ! side ( ! glaci]1 are wid]1 m num]\s1 & m complicat$ ?an transv]se crevasses4 ,! crevasses 9 ! middle ( a glaci] are usually at "r angles to ! l9e ( fl[1 s t a ski-runn] :o is runn+ /raight w cross !m at _! n>r[e/ bread?4 ,lat]al crevasses usually run at an angle ( #cj-de degrees to ! l9e ( fl[1#bc s t !y w usually be cross$ by a ski-runn] at a m or less wide angle1 & ! dang] ( runn+ along ! :ole l5g? in/ead ( across a sn[-bridge is !re=e great4 ,! pr9cipal rules = glaci] ski-+ 9 ord] ( importance are z foll[s3 7#a7 ,don't fall4 7#b7 ,don't make sudd5 sw+s4 7#c7 ,run /raight4 7#d7 ,don't use y\r /ick4 7#e7 ,keep to ! middle ( ! glaci]4 ,9 o!r words1 run z /raight z y c consi/5t ) n fall+4 ,x is bett] to run /raight & to use y\r /ick to r$uce y\r spe$ ?an to *eck y\r spe$ by sw+s & turns1 = a sw+ to a /&/ill above a crevasse is m likely ?an any o!r ski-+ manuvre to break a sn[-bridge4 ,keep close toge!r on ! desc5t1 b n too close4 ,above all ?+s1 avoid cross+ ! same sn[-bridge :ile ano!r memb] ( ! p>ty is cross+ x4 ,9 ! ,gr5z glaci] accid5t ?ree memb]s ( ! p>ty fell into ! same crevasse4 ,avoid %ort %>p turns1 & cultivate long g5tle turns if y _c run /raight4 ,x is (t5 advisable to foll[ ! lead]'s tracks1 = if ! lead] has pass$ ov] a crevasse )\t fall+ 91 ! *ances are t y w be equally =tunate4 ,!re %\ld be two ropes 9 ! p>ty1 s t if "o rope disappe>s ) its be>] into a crevasse ! second rope may be available to pull him out4 ,at lea/ "o rope1 &1 9 addition1 ! fir/-aid case & m5d+ app>atus = ski1 %\ld be 9 ! re> ( ! p>ty1 z no?+ is m annoy+ ?an to see ! lead] disappe>+ f> bel[ ) ! sp>e ski-tip j z y\r ski-po9t has snapp$ (f4 8,always rope on sn[-cov]$ glaci]s40 ,?is is ! law1 & 9 !ory ! law admits ( no exceptions4 ,b 9 w9t]1 z 9 summ]1 ?is law is (t5 brok54 ,few climb]s h a cle> record on ?is po9t4 ,! temptation to break ! law is1 ( c\rse1 mu* /rong] = ! ski-runn] ?an = ! foot-climb]4 ,!re h be5 comp>atively few accid5ts 9 :i* ski-runn]s h fall5 into crevasses4 ,on glaci]s t are kn[n to be little1 if at all1 crevass$ 9 summ]1 only a p$ant w\ld rope 9 w9t]4 ,local k is !re=e v useful inde$1 & if a local guide c be tak51 s mu* ! bett]4 ,su* accid5ts z h happ5$ h be5 ei!r on ! asc5t1 or dur+ a m or less level trav]se1 or z ! result ( a sudd5 sw+ or /em :i* has di/urb$ ! sn[4 ,i "k ( no case 9 :i* a ski-runn] has fall5 into a crevasse dur+ a fa/1 free1 un*eck$ desc5t4 ,inde$1 ,i %\ld d\bt if x w\ld be possible to break ?r\gh a sn[-bridge :ile mov+ fa/ & runn+ /raight4 ,i h myself %ot an op5 crevasse ab\t t5 feet or m 9 bread? :ile travell+ at a fairly high spe$4 ,mo/ ski-runn]s w\ld rope 9 w9t] on a glaci] t 0 kn[n to be v crevass$ 9 summ]4 ,_m ski-runn]s always rope 9 w9t]1 b f> m only rope :5 !y "k ! glaci] to be v crevass$4 ,9 ,may or ,june !re is no reason to rope = ! desc5t1 save "u v exceptional circum/ances4 ,! risk ( fall+ into a crevasse 9 ,may or ,june is s slight t ! rope may usually be disc>d$4 ,sid5ote3 ,ski-+ on a ,rope4 ,ski-+ on a rope is n s difficult z ! inexp]i5c$ might suppose4 ,exp]ts :o h practis$ toge!r c atta9 high spe$s1 & p]=m all ! turns :ile rop$ toge!r4 ,a c\ple ( good runn]s ) a little practice %\ld be able to run safely at a fair spe$4 ,b practice is necess>y1 & an h\r or two ( rop$ runn+ 9 ! valley is well wor? :ile4 ,two is ! mo/ manageable numb] on a rope1 & ( c\rse1 !re ne$ nev] be m ?an ?ree1 = l>g] p>ties c divide up into two twos1 a two & a ?ree1 etc4 ,fir/ a ^w z to rop+4 ,mo/ guides make a loop at ! v end ( ! rope4 ,?is is q uns\nd4 ,! loop %\ld be made ab\t f\r feet f ! end ( ! rope1 & ?is f\r feet ( sp>e rope %\ld aga9 be ti$ r\nd ! wai/4 ,o!rwise1 if y fall into a crevasse1 ! pressure on y\r wai/ may almo/ suffocate y be=e y are )drawn2 :]eas1 if y h f\r feet ( sp>e rope1 y c uncoil ?is1 make a new loop into :i* y c place a foot1 !reby at once reliev+ ! pressure on y\r body4 ,) a little ef=t y %\ld be able to wriggle out ( ! ma9 noose1 /&+ 9 :at may be call$ ! /irrup noose4 ,if y are n exhau/$1 y might !n be able to sw>m up ! rope1 :i* w\ld ( c\rse be q impossible if1 z w\ld o!rwise be ! case1 ! end ( ! rope 0 orig9ally ti$ r\nd y\r body4 ,two m5 on a glaci] alone sometimes adopt ,mumm]y's plan ( we>+ a second rope1 :i*1 9 ! ev5t ( a fall into a crevasse1 is unti$ by ! man above & w\nd r\nd ! head ( an axe driv5 into ! sn[4 ,! man bel[ pulls on to ! rope w\nd r\nd ! axe4 ,! man above pulls on to ! rope r\nd ! fall5 man's body4 ,?us !re are virtually two m5 pull+ "o4 ,!re is ano!r me?od ( rop+ sometimes us$ :5 ?ree ski-runn]s are ti$ to ! same rope1 :i*--?\gh x has be5 employ$ by exp]i5c$ guides--seems to me mo/ uns\nd4 ,9 ?is me?od two ski-runn]s are ti$ to "o rope1 along :i* runs a small iron r+4 ,to ?is r+ a second rope is fa/5$1 & to ?is second rope ! ?ird ski-runn] atta*es himself4 ,! !ory is t ! ?ird ski-runn]1 be+ atta*$ to a rope :i* 9 turn is atta*$ to a movable r+ free to slide on ! ma9 rope1 is f> less con/ra9$ 9 8 movem5ts ?an if all ?ree 7 on ! same rope4 ,?is is true1 b ,i %\ld be sorry to be ! ?ird ski-runn] if ,i 0 to fall into a crevasse4 ,suppose ! o!r two ski-runn]s are on opposite sides ( ?is crevasse4 ,! man 9 ! crevasse is !n atta*$ to a rope :i* slides helplessly ) ! r+ along ! ma9 rope4 ,! iron r+ probably buries itself 9 ! l[] lip ( ! crevasse4 ,i d n q see h[ any t5sion is to be ex]t$ on ! second>y rope4 ,x is simpl] to beg9 by consid]+ ! case ( two ski-runn]s1 ,a & ,b1 runn+ on a rope4 ,if !re is a m>k$ diff]5ce 9 ! ability ( ,a & ,b1 ! poor] ski-runn] %\ld lead1 = x is mu* easi] to lead on a rope ?an to be ! la/ man4 ,! la/ man on ! rope has to mod]ate 8 pace & 8 direction 9 accordance ) ! movem5ts ( ! lead]4 ,if1 h[ev]1 ,a & ,b are equally good runn]s1 !n ! lead] %\ld be ! "o ^: ski are ! fa/]3 ,i d n mean ! fa/] ski-runn]1 b ! "o ^: ski are runn+ bett]1 ei!r because ! ski !mselves are fa/] & m slipp]y1 or because _! own] is ! heavi] ( ! two1 & !re=e1 o!r ?+s be+ equal1 t5ds to get d[nhill quick]4 ,= if1 on a gradual slope :i* is to be tak5 /raight )\t brak+ or /emm+1 ,a 7^: ski are fa/]7 is con/antly ov]runn+ ,b1 ! rope w get mix$ up ) ! ski1 & ,a w h to regulate 8 pace by /emm+ or brak+ 9 ord] to keep ! prop] di/ance4 ,on ! o!r h&1 if ,a leads1 8 extra spe$ w keep ! rope taut1 & ! t5sion ( ! rope w enable ,b to keep a uni=m di/ance4 ,on easy gr\nd ,a & ,b c ski 9 s+le file4 ,b1 ^: ski are sl[]1 w be kept 9 l9e by ! t5sion ( ! rope4 ,x is n necess>y nor desirable = ,b to foll[ exactly ! same spoor z ,a3 8 spoor %\ld be an in* or two to ! side (1 & p>allel to1 ,a's spoor4 ,b mu/ be on ! look out = sudd5 increases 9 pace on ! "p ( ,a3 ,a may1 = in/ance1 come to a /eep] gradi5t1 & ,b1 if he is n on ! look out1 is liable to be pull$ ov] & pit*$ on to 8 head4 ,simil>ly ,b1 if ,a runs on to a g5tl] gradi5t1 w h to gu>d aga9/ ov]runn+ ,a1 & !reby r5d]+ ! rope useless2 = if ,a & ,b are on ! same sn[-bridge !y may bo? fall 94 ,at lea/ #ge feet ( rope %\ld be all[$ betwe5 ,a & ,b4 ,on easy gr\nd ?is rope may be all[$ to be taut2 on m difficult gr\nd ,b %\ld keep a coil ( rope 9 8 h& to all[ a m>g9 9 ! ev5t ( ,a sudd5ly increas+ 8 spe$4 ,! normal position = /raight runn+ %\ld be modifi$4 ,9 free runn+ lat]al /ra9s may usually be disreg>d$2 ! ma9 risk ( a fall lies 9 =e & aft *anges ( spe$4 ,consequ5tly1 = normal runn+ ! n>r[ groove & ! l5g!n$ base1 z 9 ! ,telem>k position1 are usually pref]able to a broad track4 ,b a ski-runn] on a rope is always liable to lat]al /ra9s4 ,x is r>e t "o runs exactly 9 l9e2 :5ev] "o's track is p>allel r ?an co9cid5t ) ! track ( ! lead]1 & :5ev] ! lead] *anges 8 direction1 h[ev] slightly1 ! rope ex]cises a c]ta9 am\nt ( sideways pull4 ,! great] ! di/ance betwe5 ! p>allel tracks1 ! great] ! lat]al t5sion ( ! rope4 ,consequ5tly1 ! ski-runn] on a rope mu/ be prep>$1 n only = =w>d &1 9 ! case ( ! lead]1 = backw>d j]ks1 b also = sideway /ra9s4 ,! be/ position = rop$ runn+ is to hold ! ski ab\t #h in*es ap>t4 ,"o ski %\ld be a few in*es ahead ( ! o!r1 & ! knees %\ld be loose4 ,! body %\ld be slightly b5t bel[ ! wai/4 ,! ,telem>k position is1 ( c\rse1 mo/ uns\nd4 ,on av]age gr\nd ! ski-/icks %\ld be held toge!r 9 ! left h&1 leav+ ! "r h& free to hold a sp>e coil ( rope4 ,if x is necess>y to brake or to control y\r spe$1 y %\ld d s by /emm+ & n by ! /ick4 ,on difficult gr\nd y %\ld use ! /ick to control y\r spe$--a rec\rse :i* is seldom1 if ev]1 ju/ifi$1 except :5 runn+ on ! rope4 ,x is q easy to hold bo? ! /icks & also a sp>e coil ( rope 9 y\r two h&s2 & if y int5d to brake ) y\r /icks1 y mu/1 ( c\rse1 put y\r /icks toge!r & get bo? y\r h&s on to !m4 ,! mo/ effici5t /op turn on a rope is ! ,*ri/iania help$ out ) ! /icks4 ,if y are unrop$1 a y>d or two ( sideslip aft] a sudd5 /op is q a good ?+1 b if y are rop$1 y ne$ to /op 9 ! smalle/ possible compass1 especially if y are lead+ & ! man beh9d falls4 ,= ?is purpose !re is no?+ to beat ! /op ,*ri/iania help$ out ) ! /icks4 ,z a rule1 h[ev]1 /emm+ is suffici5t )\t us+ ! /icks4 ,good runn]s c1 ( c\rse1 make a s]ies ( l9k$ turns on ski1 & !re are few pretti] sights ?an a skilful p>ty on a rope desc5d+ 9 a s]ies ( ,/emm+ turns4 ,:e!r lead+ or go+ la/1 always keep y\r p>tn] fully in=m$ z to y\r *anges ( spe$ or direction4 ,if ! back man feels t he is go+ to fall1 he mu/ %\t out at once1 s z to give ! lead] "t to /op by a /ick ,*ri/iania4 ,simil>ly ! lead]1 if he comes to a /eep] gradi5t1 %\ld w>n 8 p>tn] t ! spe$ is likely to increase4 ,be prep>$ to fall neatly & ) ! maximum ( effect4 ,%\ld ! lead] fall into a crevasse1 don't all[ y\rself to be dragg$ aft] him4 ,?r[ y\rself on ! gr\nd1 & br+ y\r ski r\nd1 z y fall1 at "r angles to ! track & bel[ y4 ,?is is m difficult ?an might be imag9$4 ,an indiff]5t runn]1 or ev5 a good runn] :o _h n tra9$ himself to expect a fall1 w\ld run a big risk ( be+ pull$ into ! crevasse by ! fir/ man4 ,! #8fall+ ,*ri/iania' is ! be/ me?od ( avoid+ be+ pull$ aft] ! lead] into a crevasse4 ,on fairly /eep slopes x is be/ n to run 9 l9e4 ,a & ,b %\ld run side by side4 ,provid$ ! rope is long en\gh 7& at lea/ #ge feet %\ld be all[$ betwe5 ea* p>tn]71 !re is no dang] t ,a & ,b w fall into ! same crevasse4 ,a & ,b w probably n be exactly side by side4 ,b w be j a little beh9d ,a4 ,9 o!r words1 ! l9e ( ! rope w n be exactly at "r angles to ! p>allel l9es ( ! two tracks cut by ,a & ,b4 ,?is side-by-side me?od is mu* easi] ?an runn+ 9 l9e2 if ,a sudd5ly quick5s 9 spe$1 ! only result is t ,a1 in/ead ( be+ side by side ) ,b1 t5ds to run on ahead1 & ! two tracks t5d to close up toge!r until ! spe$ is readju/$4 ,s1 too1 if ,b falls sudd5ly1 ,a has mu* m *ance & m room 9 :i* to make a /op ,*ri/iania ?an if !y 7 runn+ exactly 9 l9e4 ,also x is n necess>y = ei!r ,a or ,b to hold a coil ( rope 9 8 h&s4 ,if ! sn[ is smoo?1 ! rope ne$ n be taut betwe5 ! runn]s if !y are runn+ side by side4 ,x _c be all[$ to hang loose & to sweep ! sn[4 ,all t has be5 said above applies equally to ?ree m5 on a rope3 ?ree on a rope is1 h[ev]1 a m difficult comb9ation2 ! position ( ! middle man liable to bo? =e & aft j]ks is f> f enviable4 ,! be/ man %\ld be plac$ 9 ! middle4 ,x is1 h[ev]1 surpris+ h[ easily a p>ty ( ?ree practis$ rop$ runn]s c execute /raight runn+ & ev5 comb9$ turns on a rope4 ,ropes t are employ$ 9 w9t] %\ld be new4 ,old summ] ropes %\ld n be us$ up 9 w9t]4 ,ropes break mu* m easily 9 w9t] ?an 9 summ]1 & ! /ra9 is mu* great] 9 ! ev5t ( a fall into a crevasse ow+ to ! great] spe$ on ski ?an on foot4 ,,! ,,high ,,alps ,,9 ,,spr+ ,!re is a fasc9ation ab\t ! ,high ,alps 9 w9t] t is unique4 ,nev] are ! great peaks s icily alo(1 ! sil5ces ( ! glaci]s s inviolate4 ,no moon comp>es ) ! full moon ( ,janu>y %9+ on "s great glaci] causeway2 no views are cle>] ?an ! summit panorama ( ,febru>y4 ,none ! less1 w9t] is n ! prop] season = ski t\rs 9 ! ,high ,alps4 ,x is true t ! rock ridges are usually free f sn[ 9 ! w9t] & cornic$ 9 spr+1 s t = exp$itions :i* comb9e ski-+ ) m or less difficult rock climb+1 w9t] is pref]able to spr+4 ,at ! same "t1 x is possible to exagg]ate ?is po9t4 ,an ard5t *ampion ( w9t] m\nta9e]+ once cit$ to me ! ,lyskamm z a m\nta9 t c\ld n be climb$ 9 ,may ow+ to cornices4 ,un=tunately = 8 case1 ! ,lyskamm _h be5 climb$ 9 ,may4 ,i h kn[n ! cornice on ! ,wett]horn almo/ invisible 9 ,may1 :]eas 9 _m w9t]s x is q =midable4 ,/ill we may conc$e t rock ridges are c]ta9ly f> easi] 9 ,febru>y ?an 9 ,may1 & cornices 9 g5]al mu* l>g] 9 spr+ ?an 9 w9t]4 ,& ( c\rse ! sn[l9e is l[] 9 w9t] ?an 9 spr+2 b1 z we %all try to prove1 ?is is n ( v great importance4 ,! w9t] is ! season = ski t\rs ( mode/ l5g?4 ,x is ! season = :at may be call$ sub-alp9e ski-+4 7,we ne$ "s h&y expression 9 ,engli% = ! mo/ useful ,g]man ^w ,mittelgebirge47 ,spr+1 on ! o!r h&1 is em95tly suitable = ski t\rs 9 ! ,high ,alps4 ,! be/ mon? = glaci] ski-+ is ,may4 ,june is also excell5t4 ,inde$1 f ab\t ! middle ( ,may to ! middle ( ,june is1 on ! av]age1 z good a mon? z any 9 ! ye> = glaci] ski-+4 ,febru>y is usually ! be/ ( ! w9t] mon?s1 & ,may is ! be/ mon? = spr+ ski-+4 ,may is1 among o!r ?+s1 usually f9e4 ,april is almo/ always /ormy2 b ! wea!r usually m5ds at ! end ( ,april1 & a long spell ( p]fect wea!r is z common 9 ,may z 9 ,febru>y4 ,let u !n comp>e ski-+ among ! glaci]s 9 ,may & 9 ,febru>y f ! po9t ( view ( 7#a7 ,safety2 7#b7 ,quality ( ski-+2 7#c7 ,ef=t2 7#d7 ,sc5]y4 7#a7 ,safety4--,! %ortness ( ! days & ! great v>iations ( temp]ature1 f mild & equable to bitt]ly cold1 all add an elem5t ( dang] to ! ,high ,alps 9 ,febru>y4 ,a small mi%ap may h v s]i\s consequ5ces4 ,a brok5 leg half-way d[n ,monte ,rosa or ! ,wett]horn probably means a night 9 ! op51 & a night 9 ! op5 may mean a fatal end+4 ,! sudd5 *anges ( wea!r1 ! /orms t rise 9 a night & la/ = days1 all make ,febru>y ski-+ among ! glaci]s a sport ) its own dang]s4 ,9 ,may all ^! risks are r$uc$ almo/ to vani%+-po9t4 ,a brok5 leg is a brok5 leg 9 ,febru>y or 9 ,may1 b a night 9 ! op5 9 ,may %\ld h no p]man5t effect on any b a v badly w\nd$ climb]4 ,we h already dealt ) avalan*es4 ,"h we ne$ only repeat t ?\gh avalan*es are ( daily occurr5ce 9 ,may1 an exp]i5c$ p>ty has no difficulty 9 avoid+ !m4 ,!y h a regul> "t-table1 &1 provid$ "o times "o's asc5t or desc5t s z to avoid cross+ c]ta9 slopes at c]ta9 h\rs1 "o is absolutely safe4 ,9 w9t]1 avalan*es c fall at any h\r ( ! day1 "u c]ta9 circum/ances1 & at any temp]ature4 ,to take a concrete example3 ! ,gauli hut4 ,?is hut lies at ! head ( a v /eep & n>r[ valley1 ! ,urba*?al4 ,9 w9t] "o w\ld nev] be q safe 9 ?is valley4 ,a sudd5 w9d might rise & br+ d[n a p[d] avalan*e2 & ev5 9 /eady wea!r ! risk ( a p[d] avalan*e f ! v /eep sides ( ?is valley is nev] entirely abs5t4 ,9 spr+ "o leaves ,meir+5 be=e midnight1 climbs ?is valley at night1 &1 provid$ ! wea!r is f9e1 "o is absolutely safe2 = 9 spr+1 avalan*es fall 9 ! aft]noon & nev] fall at night1 save :5 ! ,fhn is bl[+4 ,& :5 ! ,fhn is bl[+ ! ski-runn] /ays at home1 or rema9s 9 a club hut4 ,f9ally1 ! glaci]s are n ov]safe 9 w9t]1 = reasons expla9$ on pp4 #ddh-ddi4 ,9 ,may all save v badly crevass$ glaci]s c be desc5d$ on ski by an unrop$ p>ty1 )\t great] risks ?an ^? :i* mu/ be fac$ by e bold p$e/rian t crosses ,piccadilly ,circus4 ,! crevasses are nev] s securely bridg$ z 9 spr+4 7#b7 ,quality ( ! ,ski-+4--,9 w9t] x is ! exception to f9d good sn[ 9 ! ,high ,alps4 ,! w9d1 z has already be5 expla9$1 spoils ! sn[ on all expos$ slopes4 ,b 9 ,may ! w9d is p[]less1 = ! fir/ f9e day & hot sun w melt ! sn[ s ?or\ghly t all traces ( w9d action dur+ ! sn[fall w entirely disappe>4 ,!nce=w>d ! w9d is p[]less1 = ! w9d _c *urn up ! heavy melt$ sn[ ( spr+1 /ill less ! h>d cru/ :i* is f\nd 9 ! e>ly morn+4 ,sn[ 9 spr+ is h>d cru/ 9 ! e>ly morn+1 ,telem>k cru/ up to midday or lat] on high nor? slopes4 ,9 ! aft]noon x is usually s(t & heavy1 b 9 ! ev5+ x once aga9 yields f9e ski-+4 ,! ski-runn] :o visits ! ,high ,alps 9 w9t] c =m no =eca/ z to ! possible conditions ( ! sn[1 = ! sn[ is dep5d5t on ! direction & on ! /r5g? ( ! w9ds t h bl[n s9ce ! sn[ fell4 ,x is !re=e a matt] ( *ance :e!r ! sn[ is good or bad1 = nobody c =etell ! conditions :i* dep5d on su* a fickle elem5t z ! w9d4 ,! long] f9e wea!r endures 9 w9t]1 ! great] ! *ance t ! sn[ w be spoil$4 ,9 spr+ ! rev]se is ! case4 ,! m (t5 sn[ is melt$ & refroz5 ! bett] x becomes4 ,9 g5]al1 provid$ ! wea!r rema9s f9e1 ! spr+ ski-runn] c c\nt almo/ ) c]ta9ty on p]fect ski-+ & p]fect sn[4 ,an important po9t 9 fav\r ( spr+ is ! fact t "o usually gets good ski-+ = e foot t "o climbs on sn[4 ,9 w9t] ! summit sn[ slopes are (t5 s w9dswept1 t ! ski are left "s di/ance bel[ ! actual top & ! f9al asc5t is made on foot4 ,9 spr+ ! sn[ is j z good on ! mo/ expos$ summit slope z l[] d[n4 ,i h />t$ spr+ or summ] ski desc5ts f ! actual summits ( su* peaks z ! ,dom1 ,ebnefluh1 ,galmihorn1 etc4 ,?is is an important advantage1 & m ?an c\nt]balances ! fact t ! sn[l9e is high] 9 ,may ?an 9 ,febru>y2 = ?\gh "o may lose a ?\s& feet ( ski-+ on ! la/ day1 "o m ?an balances ?is loss by ! fact t good ski-+ is obta9$ f ! highe/ limit ( ! sn[4 ,! sn[l9e 9 ,may usually ext5ds d[n to #ejjj feet4 ,i h sp5t ?ree ,may mon?s 9 ! ,alps1 & ,i h always be5 able to get good ski-+ well on to ! middle ( ,may d[n to ab\t #eejj feet1 & sometimes l[]4 ,9 n>r[ valleys ! rema9s ( spr+ avalan*es survive into ! summ]4 ,i h ski$ 9 ! middle ( ,june bel[ #fjjj feet 9 ! ,gr$ets*?al1 & ,i h (t51 9 ! middle or end ( ,june1 obta9$ fir/-class ski-+ bel[ #gjjj feet4 ,( c\rse ! height ( ! sn[l9e is ( no v great importance if1 z is usually ! case1 "o sp5ds f\r or five days on ! glaci]s4 ,"o c sacrifice a ?\s& or two ?\s& feet ( ski-+ on ! la/ day ) complete composure if "o is c]ta91 z "o is nev] c]ta9 9 w9t]1 t "o w get really good ski-+ = e foot ( sn[ slope t "o climbs4 7#c7 ,ef=t4--,mu* less en]gy is exp5d$ on a spr+ ?an on a w9t] ski t\r4 ,9 w9t] mo/ ( ! climb+ is done on ski4 ,tracks h to be made 9 ! s(t sn[2 a gradual zigzag c\rse has to be tak52 "t is wa/$ ov] #8kick turns4' ,9 spr+ "o climbs on foot or on crampons4 ,! ski are dragg$ beh9d on /r+4 ,on level or g5tle slopes ! weight ( ! ski is almo/ imp]ceptible if !y are pull$ along on /r+4 ,on /eep slopes !y are by no means a great h9drance4 ,x is surpris+ :at c be accompli%$ by a man :o is dragg+ in/ead ( c>ry+ ski4 ,i h se5 ,knubel climb a %ort b v /eep sn[ & ice wall 9 :i* he _h to cut half a doz5 h&holds1 & on :i* he _h to /eady himself ) "o h& :ile he cut h& & foot holes ) ! axe held 9 8 "r h&4 ,mean:ile 8 ski 7 dangl+ on /r+--atta*$ to 8 wai/--ov] ! b]gs*rund bel[4 ,! ski %\ld1 ( c\rse1 always be secur$ by two /r+s 9 case "o breaks4 ,9 spr+ on h>d sn[ "o climbs v ne>ly z fa/ dragg+ "o's ski z "o w\ld climb )\t ski1 & f #ej-ajj p] c5t fa/] ?an "o w\ld climb if "o 0 =c$ to asc5d ! same slope on ski ) s(t w9t] sn[4 ,! sav+ ( ef=t is z rem>kable z ! sav+ ( "t1 = x is mu* easi] to climb direct on foot ?an to zigzag up s(t sn[ on ski4 ,ap>t f ! upp] sn[s1 ! approa*es to ! ,high ,alps are easi] 9 spr+ ?an 9 w9t]4 ,! sn[ at night is ne>ly always h>d 9 ,may4 ,! n>r[ valleys1 fill$ ) s(t p[d] sn[1 are cov]$ ) a firm gr\ndwork ( h>d cru/ 9 spr+4 ,! climb to ! club hut is usually done at night or 9 ! e>ly morn+4 ,?\gh ! sn[ lies d[n to five ?\s& feet well on into ! middle or end ( ,may1 s t ! ski desc5t c be prolong$ d[n to v l[ levels1 x is usually possible to pick a r\te up sn[-free slopes 7ei!r on s\!rn or s\?-we/]ly or s\?-ea/]ly slopes7 f> high] ?an ! l[e/ levels ( ! sn[l9e4 ,pa?s c be utiliz$ in/ead ( sn[ slopes1 m especially if ! peasants h begun to tramp out ! pa?s = _! own purposes4 ,! long det\rs1 (t5 necess>y 9 w9t]1 to avoid dang]\s avalan*e slopes are ne$less 9 spr+1 = su* slopes c always be cross$ ) safety at night :5 ! sn[ is cru/$4 7#d7 ,sc5]y4--,i h tri$ to %[ t ! ,high ,alps yield bett] & saf] ski-+ 9 ,may ?an 9 w9t]4 ,ev5 if ?is 7 n s1 ,may w\ld possess a *>m = ! m\nta9e] t no o!r mon? af=ds4 ,x is p]haps idle to comp>e ! rival beauties ( ! f\r great alp9e seasons1 =1 ev5 if "o season c\ld be prov$ p>am\nt1 ! true m\nta9e] w\ld wi% to /udy ! m\nta9s 9 all _! moods4 ,! icy virg9ity ( ! ,high ,alps 9 w9t] reveals secrets t are hidd5 9 spr+ & 9 summ]4 ,none ! less1 if x be p]mitt$ to /ate a pref]5ce1 ,i = "o %\ld give my vote to ,may mon?s4 ,contra/ is ! great] tea*]1 & ,may is ! mon? ( contra/s4 ,i ?9k ( mom5ts :5 "o /epp$ on to a high ridge aft] h\rs among ! burn+ sn[-fields ( ,may1 & look$ d[n1 ) a %ock ( surprise1 on to ! valleys dress$ 9 a gre5 t 0 diff]5t1 transfigur$1 miracul\s--a gre5 t ! valley-dwell] has nev] se54 ,i ?9k ( quiet ev5+s aft] long days among ! sn[s1 :5 "o /roll$ d[n ?r\gh ! sc5t$ p9es ) "o's ski on "o's back & ! music ( a p]fect run /ill e*o+ 9 "o's he>t--( ! ,dollfuss 9 ,may1 a little oasis ( gre5 "y turf cov]$ ) g5tian & anemone 9 a wild]ness ( burn+ sn[ & granite ridges4 ,i ?9k ( a sunset h\r j above ,ros5laui1 foll[+ f\r p]fect days among ! ,may glaci]s1 ! =egr\nd ( m>%-m>igolds a %eet ( flame1 & ! :ole valley "o full-?roat$ *orus ( spr+4 ,runn+ wat] is always beautiful1 b !re is no music 9 all ! h>monies ( ,nature to comp>e ) m\nta9 torr5ts 9 spr+ aft] days among ! dead sil5ce ( ! upp] sn[s4 ,su* are ! contra/s t rew>d ! m\nta9e] 9 ,may4 ,)9 ! compass ( dawn & sunset he c live ?r\gh ! cycle ( ! seasons1 c pass f w9t] to spr+1 c enjoy ! be/ t sn[ yields to ! ski-runn]1 & ! *iefe/ rew>ds t ! hills yield to ^? t explore !m :5 ! great rebir? ( col\r & music has f9ally prevail$ ov] ! /ubborn ob/9acy ( ! retreat+ sn[s4 ,9 ord] to und]/& ! conditions t prevail 9 ! ,high ,alps 9 spr+1 ! effect ( sun on sn[ & ! v>i\s habits ( sun-=m$ & sun-melt$ cru/ mu/ be grasp$4 ,^! are dealt ) on pp4 #dab-dag4 ,avalan*es are analys$ on pp4 #dbc-dch4 ,all t n[ rema9s is to consid] ! application ( ! pr9ciples laid d[n to ! v>i\s mon?s ( spr+4 ,sid5ote3 ,m>*4 ,! w9t] ( ! cal5d> ends (ficially on #bc ,m>*1 & ! cal5d> spr+ la/s f #bd ,m>* to #bc ,june4 ,none ! less ,m>*1 :atev] ! cal5d> may say1 is w9t] 9 ! ,high ,alps4 ,! sn[1 unless di/urb$ by w9d1 rema9s p[d]y on all nor? slopes & g5tle s\? slopes4 ,m>* is (t5 a mon? ( sn[/orms1 ?\gh occasionally x is di/+ui%$ by really f9e wea!r4 ,on ! :ole1 h[ev]1 x _c be said to be a good mon? = glaci] ski-+1 ?\gh1 on ! o!r h&1 ! days are long] ?an 9 ,febru>y4 ,! sun is /rong] & ! crevasses m securely bridg$4 ,sid5ote3 ,april4 ,april m>ks ! transition f w9t] to spr+4 ,z a rule1 ,april is m>k$ 9 ! ,alps by frequ5t /orms1 v>i$ by p]iods ( wet ,fhn4 ,occasionally "o gets a week ( really good wea!r & f9e ski-+1 ev5 at v l[ altitudes1 & x (t5 happ5s t ! la/ week 9 ,april is p]fect succe$+ to a long p]iod ( sn[/orms4 ,b z a rule good wea!r is less common 9 ,april ?an 9 any mon? ( ! alp9e ye>4 ,! sn[ itself v>ies4 ,p[d] sn[ is f\nd on nor? slopes at high altitudes4 ,s\? slopes are usually cru/$4 ,! cru/ v>ies a great deal1 & resembles1 9 g5]al1 ! cru/ f\nd 9 w9t] at l[ altitudes4 ,9 o!r words1 ,april cru/ on ! glaci]s is usually m>ble cru/ 9 ! e>ly morn+s4 ,! law1 expla9$ on p4 #dad1 8,! mild] ! fro/ ! bett] ! cru/10 (t5 gives ! clue to tim+ a successful desc5t4 ,z "o desc5ds on an e>ly morn+ 9 ,april ! cru/ usually improves4 ,z a rule1 ! sun is /rong en\gh to melt ! cru/ j be=e or j aft] midday1 & 9 ?is case y get p]fect runn+ on ,telem>k cru/4 ,ow+ to ! l[] temp]ature ! sn[ rema9s good mu* long] ?an 9 ,may4 ,9 fact1 at high altitudes x seldom becomes completely ?aw$1 s t ! ski-+ on ,april aft]noons is usually bett] ?an on ,may aft]noons4 ,x is important to notice t :51 z 9 spr+ & summ]1 ! sun rema9s above ! horizon aft] #f p4m41 ! nor!rn slopes w be 9 ! sun aft] ! s\!rn slopes h lo/ ! sun1 = ! sun at #f p4m4 is due we/ & aft] #f p4m4 is nor? ( we/4 ,( c\rse1 z ! sun is l[ 9 ! sky only nor? slopes t are n %ut 9 by neighb\r+ slopes w keep ! sun4 ,if a nor? w9d is bl[+1 ! sn[ on nor? slopes1 previ\sly cru/$ by sun & fro/1 may rema9 q unmelt$ ?r\gh\t ! day4 ,i h f\nd h>d slipp]y cru/ 9 ! late aft]noon at ! end ( ,april j bel[ ! rocks ( ! ,z9al ,ro?horn1 ) ! result t ! ski-+ 0 mo/ unpleasant4 ,a bitt] nor? w9d 0 bl[+ at ! "t4 ,s1 too1 s\? slopes :5 ! nor? w9d is bl[+ may resi/ ! sun1 & ?\gh !y w n1 l nor? slopes1 rema9 really h>d1 !y w n be ?or\ghly melt$4 ,if y are lucky en\gh to get f9e wea!r1 ,april ski-+ is (t5 delightful4 ,aft] a few days ( sun traces ( w9d action disappe> f all slopes1 save p]haps nor? slopes at v high altitudes4 ,telem>k cru/ t[>ds midday1 & ev5 lat]1 & salt sn[ or hypo sn[ 7p4 #dag7 z y desc5d f ! glaci]s to ! l[] regions1 are *>act]i/ic ( ,april ski-+4 ,x may be necess>y to "t y\r desc5t to ! valley s z to pass a dang]\s slope be=e ! sun has /ruck x4 ,) ord9>y caution an exp]i5c$ p>ty %\ld run no risk :atev] ( be+ caught by an avalan*e2 b x is und5iable t inexp]i5c$ p>ties come to grief m frequ5tly 9 ,april ?an 9 any o!r mon?4 ,?is does n prove t ! avalan*e dang] is really great]1 b only t x is great] = ! inexp]i5c$4 ,sid5ote3 ,may4 ,9 ,may newly fall5 sn[ usually rema9s p[d]y = "o or two days on nor? slopes1 & ev5 long] at high altitudes4 ,b1 9 g5]al1 p[d] sn[ is ! exception 9 ,may4 ,at high altitudes y w f9d h>d m>ble cru/ 9 ! e>ly morn+4 ,at l[] altitudes y w usually f9d #8film cru/' & #8p]=at$ cru/4' ,= ! =mation ( ^! excell5t runn+ surfaces1 see p4 #dad4 ,! ma9 diff]5ce betwe5 m>ble cru/ on ! "o h&1 & ei!r film cru/ or p]=at$ cru/ on ! o!r h&1 is t ! =m] is too slipp]y to give ! ski pur*ase1 :]eas film or p]=at$ cru/ is a spl5did surface = ,/emm+ turns or ,*ri/ianias4 ,z a rule1 9 spr+ "o desc5ds aft] ! sun has s(t5$ ! cru/4 ,:e!r ! orig9al morn+ cru/ 0 h>d & slipp]y1 or cov]$ by a film or p]=at$ cru/1 does n matt] once ! sun has melt$ its surface4#bd ,9 any case1 !re w be a p]iod ( ski-+ on ,telem>k cru/ 7p4 #dae74 ,! ma9 importance ( film or p]=at$ cru/ is its value :5 y h to beg9 a desc5t be=e ! sun has s(t5$ ! sn[4 ,i rememb] />t+ "o morn+ j aft] ! dawn f ! ,ob]a>jo*4 ,i int5d$ to ski d[n to ! ,grimsel & !nce to climb ! ,gal5/ock1 & ,i hop$ to g f ! ,ob]a>jo* hut to ! ,furka betwe5 dawn & sunset1 tak+ ! ,gal5/ock en r\te4 ,x 0 obvi\s t an e>ly />t 0 necess>y4 ,at t date ,i _h done little ski-+ 9 ,june1 & ,i fully expect$ t ! top slopes ( ! ,ob]a>jo* w\ld be cov]$ by v h>d & slipp]y m>ble cru/4 ,to my great surprise ! cru/1 ?\gh h>d1 0 cov]$ by a beautiful film ( s(t1 transp>5t brittle ice4 ,z ! ski swung r\nd on a turn1 ?is s(t film peel$ away & ru/l$ d[n ! slope ) a s(t spla%+ s\nd4 ,no surface c\ld be f9]4 ,/raight runn+ 0 absolutely safe on ! ev51 un*ang+ gradi5ts ( ^? summit slopes4 ,!re 7 no hidd5 rocks or hidd5 crevasses to fe>4 ,! film cru/ 0 absolutely true4 ,!re 0 no risk ( runn+ into a s(t /icky pat* or a w9dswept pocket4 ,"o c\ld run z fa/ z "o lik$1 secure 9 ! k t at any mom5t "o c\ld /op by a long-drawn-out ,*ri/iania4 ,on really /eep slopes "o c\ld l9k a succession ( sweep+ ,*ri/ianias1 ! lovelie/ ( all conceivable turns1 & on g5tle slopes "o c\ld run /raight4 ,! s(t film gave an excell5t pur*ase & prev5t$ ! ski side-slipp+ helplessly z "o began to turn1 = ! ski cut 9 "u ! film & peel$ x away4 ,until a man has ski$ d[n f "s glaci] pass at dawn on film cru/ he has yet to le>n ! be/ t ski-+ c yield4 ,t run f ! ,ob]a>jo* /&s out z "o ( ! f9e/ runs ( my life4 ,! great *>m ( film cru/ is t fa/ runn+ c be comb9$ ) absolute safety1 = a dang]\s fall is almo/ impossible on ?is surface4 ,i rememb] t we took tw5ty m9utes f ! pass to ! sn\t ( ! glaci]1 & duly arriv$ at ,glets* aft] tak+ ! ,gal5/ock en r\te be=e sunset4 ,p]=at$ cru/ is h>d] & firm] ?an film cru/4 ,on v /eep slopes x is a little too slipp]y1 b on any?+ bel[ #be degrees x gives p]fect runn+4 ,9 ,may film cru/ & p]=at$ cru/ are common 9 ! e>ly morn+1 & m>ble cru/ is unusual4 ,aft] fre% sn[ "o f9ds all sorts ( %ades ( sn[ f pure w9t] sn[ to film cru/1 b a few days ( cl\dless wea!r is usually suffici5t to *ange p[d] into cru/ on all b v high nor? slopes4 ,sid5ote3 ,june4 ,june diff]s ma9ly f ,may 9 t ! sn[l9e is high] & t w9t] sn[ is ev5 m uncommon4 ,film cru/ & p]=at$ cru/ is ! rule at all save high altitudes & j aft] fre% sn[4 ,z a rule ! sn[ is ev5 bett] 9 ,june ?an 9 ,may4 ,! m frequ5tly spr+ sn[ is melt$ & refroz5 ! bett] x becomes4 ,old sn[ t has pass$ ?r\gh ?is process aga9 & aga9 acquires a granul> & cry/all9e "*4 ,x does n melt s ?or\ghly4 ,provid$ !re is no t\* ( ,fhn 9 ! air1 x reta9s ?is cry/all9e =m ev5 :5 x is melt$4 ,9 ,june ! sn[ rema9s good = ski-+ mu* lat] 9 ! day ?an 9 ,may1 ev5 ?\gh ! sun is high] 9 ! sky4 ,9 ,may ! p]iod ( transition f wet sn[ to cru/ is v sudd54 ,"o mom5t ! sn[ is wet & heavy1 & half an h\r lat] ! fir/ cru/ has =m$4 ,9 ,june !re is (t5 a well-m>k$ int]m$iate p]iod :5 ! sn[ gradually gets cold] & m cry/all9e4 ,?is granul> sn[ is v fa/ & v true1 & suitable = e k9d ( turn & sw+ at high spe$4 ,on ,may ev5+s ! s(t cru/ is v pleasant1 b x is a little too s(t & ! sn[ und]nea? ! cru/ is a little too woolly2 b 9 ,june :5 ! sun goes (f ! slopes ! sn[ becomes cry/all9e1 cold1 fa/ & j compact en\gh to prev5t ! ski s9k+ 9 too deep4 ,9 ,june ! l[] limits ( ! nv (t5 %[ signs ( furr[+4 ,! action ( ! sun =ms ridges & furr[s produc+ a wavy effect4 ,^! ridges are unpleasant to ski on or to ski ov] :5 ! sn[ is h>d1 b q h>mless :5 ! sn[ has begun to s(t54 ,on /eep slopes ! ridges run r\ghly p>allel ) ! fall ( ! slope4 ,on ! level ! sn[ is divid$ into numb]less little hillocks ) correspond+ holes4 ,! action is simil> on a small scale to ! erosive action ( wat] on a l>ge scale4 ,wat] furr[s an ev5 m\nta9 side ) gullies & a m or less level pla9 ) int]sect+ rav9es t produce a s]ies ( hills4 ,& j z 9 ! geological cycle ! la/ /age ( a m\nta9\s c\ntry is a p5eplane1 s on sn[ ! action ( ! sun acts on ! ridges & hillocks =m$ by previ\s action ( ! sun & once aga9 r$uces ! surface to a pla94 ,i h se5 9 w9t] "o heavy ra9/orm furr[ ! hillsides ) m9iature ridges & a level sn[ slope ) m9iature hillocks1 & ,i h se5 ! next ra9/orm--:i* foll[$ two days lat]--erode ! ridges & hillocks =m$ by ! fir/ /orm & once aga9 produce slopes ( ev5 cont\r & levels unbrok5 by hillocks4 ,,! ,,spr+ ,,"t-,,table ,! spr+ ski-runn] has1 9 g5]al1 ! *oice ( two p]iods ( ! day = 8 desc5t4 ,he c desc5d 9 ! morn+ j aft] ! sun has begun to s(t5 ! surface ( ! h>d cru/1 or 9 ! ev5+ :5 ! s(t melt$ sn[ is beg9n+ to freeze aga94 ,if ! day's run ends at "s club hut situat$ at a reasonable height1 say #ijjj-aj1jjj feet1 he c usually leave ! hut ab\t dawn & return ab\t midday1 = ! sn[ at ?is height is usually p]fect j be=e midday2 or he c "t 8 desc5t = j be=e or j aft] sunset4 ,if he is desc5d+ to ! valley1 x is usually be/ to "t 8 desc5t a great deal e>li]4 ,9 ,may ! sn[ bel[ #hjjj feet s(t5s v quickly directly ! sun t\*es x1 & becomes dang]\s on /eep slopes4 ,9 ?is case1 %\ld ! sn[ on ! glaci]s be film or p]=at$ cru/1 he c />t 8 desc5t be=e ! sun has s(t5$ ! cru/1 s z to rea* ! l[e/ limits ( ! sn[ be=e !y h be5 s(t5$ by ! sun4 ,z ?is is (t5 impossible1 x is be/ to "t ! desc5t f ! peak to ! club hut = midday1 or r be=e midday1 & !n to wait 9 ! hut till sunset1 & cont9ue ! run d[n to ! valley aft] ! sun has set & ! sn[ begun to freeze aga94 ,guides are (t5 dreadfully impati5t1 & h ! greate/ objection to sp5d+ a long "t on ! summit ( a peak4 ,_m guides seem to reg>d summit views ) /udi$ malevol5ce1 & v few guides really und]/& spr+ sn[4 ,if1 z (t5 happ5s1 ! arrival on ! summit occurs aft] midday1 x is absurd to spoil a p]fect desc5t by runn+ d[n 9 ! aft]noon4 ,! amateur mu/ ex]cise reasonable re/ra9t & insi/ on wait+4 ,!re are _m ?+s m unpleasant ?an to lie ab\t on ! summit ( "s great peak = ?ree or f\r h\rs /udy+ ! *ang+ effect ( a ,may aft]noon on di/ant hills & valleys1 :at "t ! sn[ gradually improves4 ,great judgm5t is requir$ 9 spr+ to get ! be/ value out ( ! desc5t2 x w (t5 pay a p>ty to wait ?ree or f\r h\rs = ! sn[ to improve4 ,summ] climb]s seldom l+] on ! summit1 = 9 summ] ! w9d usually makes itself felt1 b 9 ,may or ,june "o c bask on ! top ( a peak 9 %irt sleeves ev5 aft] ! sun has set4 ,ea/]n slopes1 ( c\rse1 are ! fir/ to s(t5 9 ! morn+ & ! fir/ to freeze at night4 ,! be/ mom5t to desc5d v>ies ) ! ori5tation ( a slope4 ,x is (t5 possible to *oose "o ( two alt]natives1--an ea/]n or a we/]n r\te1--& ! wise ski-runn] c (t5 improve ! quality ( ! desc5t by a clev] *oice ( l9e & slope4 ,consid]able exp]i5ce is ne$$ aft] a fre% fall ( sn[4 ,sn[ usually rema9s p[d]y = a day or two on nor? slopes 9 ,may or ,june4 ,p]fect p[d] sn[ is by no means ! exception 9 spr+2 an in* or two ( w9t] p[d] on spr+ cru/ provides a surface :i* is absolutely unrivall$4 ,:51 h[ev]1 ! p[d] beg9s to turn into cru/ ! ski-+ may (t5 be difficult4 ,aft] a sn[fall y %\ld try ei!r to f9d slopes hold+ w9t] sn[ or slopes hold+ spr+ sn[1 b n slopes on :i* ! sn[ is j *ang+ f p[d] to cru/4 ,y may1 = in/ance1 h sp5t ! night at a club hut at a height ( #ijjj feet above ! sea4 ,y h arriv$ 9 ! middle ( ,june on ! fir/ f9e day aft] a sn[/orm4 ,! sn[ ne> ! hut has be5 ?or\ghly melt$ by ! sun be=e y\r arrival4 ,! wea!r is cle>1 & !re is a nor? w9d bl[+4 ,y may reasonably expect p[d] sn[ on nor? slopes d[n to ab\t #aj1jjj feet1 s t if y h a *oice ( an exp$ition on nor? sn[1 say a peak #ac1jjj feet high1 y %\ld attempt x1 & y w probably f9d p[d] sn[ mo/ ( ! way4 ,on ! o!r h&1 a peak ( ! same height t fac$ s\? might be an unpleasant condition1 p[d] turn+ into /icky sn[ or cru/4 ,x might !re=e be be/ to *oose a small peak1 say #aa1jjj feet1 fac+ s\?1 & run d[n bel[ ! hut1 rem\nt+ 9 ! ev5+4 ,su* an exp$ition might yield bett] ski-+ ?an a high peak4 ,aft] a day or two ( f9e wea!r all sn[1 except+ sn[ on nor? slopes at a v great height1 is trans=m$ into ord9>y spr+ sn[4 ,!nce=w>d ! ski-runn] may c\nt on p]fect sn[1 provid$ he times 8 desc5t "r4 ,x is only ) =ty-eight h\rs ( a sn[fall t !re is any real difficulty4 ,dur+ su* %ort p]iods ! exp]i5c$ spr+ ski-runn] w "k :e!r to g = nor? slopes 9 ! hope ( w9t] sn[ or = s\!rn slopes1 or nor? slopes at l[] altitudes1 9 se>* ( spr+ sn[4 ,,summ] ,,& ,,autumn ,,ski-,,+ ,9 summ] ! sn[l9e climbs ev] high]1 & ! scope ( ! ski-runn] is accord+ly limit$4 ,climb]s :o g /raight up a peak & d[n aga9 to ! valley w !re=e be unwill+ to burd5 !mselves ) ski2 b = a man :o sp5ds sev]al days 9 club huts )\t ev] desc5d+ f> bel[ ! summ] sn[l9e1 ! use ( ski = sn[-peaks is z valuable z at any o!r season ( ! ye>4 ,monte ,rosa1 ,ebnefluh1 ,fies*]horn1 etc41 yield q z good ski-+ d[n to ! club-hut levels 9 ,augu/ z 9 ,janu>y--bett]1 9 fact1 = ! sn[ is usually bett] 9 ,augu/ ?an 9 ,janu>y4 ,( c\rse ! crevasses are m op5 ?an 9 spr+1 & ! greate/ c>e is ne$$ aft] a fre% fall ( sn[4 ,! sn[ conditions z ! summ] advances gradually *ange4 ,july is n unlike ,june1 except+ t !re is less sn[ on ! m\nta9s & t ! sn[l9e is high]4 ,o!rwise "o f9ds 9 ,july all ! v>ieties ( spr+ sn[ f film cru/ to granul> sn[4 ,on #bj ,augu/ ! sun is at ! same altitude z on #bj ,april1 & on #bj ,septemb] x is at ! same altitude z on #bj ,m>*4 ,s t t[>ds ! end ( ,septemb] we %\ld expect t ! sun w\ld be p[]less to affect p[d] sn[ on nor? slopes j z x is p[]less at ! end ( ,m>* to trans=m p[d] into cru/ on nor? slopes at reasonably high altitudes4 ,9 ,augu/ p[d] sn[ on nor? slopes usually rema9s uncru/$ = two or ?ree days aft] a fall4 ,! w9d1 :i* 0 p[]less 9 ,may or ,june1 beg9s to rega9 its asc5dancy4 ,9 ,augu/ "o f9ds at high altitudes on nor? slopes all ! usual effects ( w9d action t "o may obs]ve 9 ,april4 ,"o does n see ! same traces ( w9d t "o obs]ves 9 ,janu>y1 = ! sn[falls are light] & ! sun is /rong]1 b w9dbo>d & rippl$ sn[ are common en\gh 9 ,augu/4 ,9 ,septemb] & ,octob] sn[ rema9s p[d]y unless affect$ by ,fhn on nor? slopes above #ijjj feet4 ,9 ,octob] ! sn[falls usually beg9 at ! ord9>y alp9e c5tres4 ,i h enjoy$ p]fect ski-+ at ,mrr5 by ! middle ( ,octob]2 ski exp$itions 9 ! ,high ,alps h also be5 c>ri$ out at ?is date1 ?\gh ! practice is to be disc\rag$2 =1 ( c\rse1 ! glaci]s are nev] s dang]\s z 9 ,octob] or ,novemb]1 :5 ! maximum numb] ( crevasses are op5 & ! sn[ bridges m insecure ?an at any o!r p]iod ( ! ye>4 ,9 a few ye>s' "t _m club huts w be provid$ ) ski1 s t ! tr\ble ( c>ry+ ski to ! summ] sn[l9e w no long] exi/4 ,:5 once ?is ob/acle to summ] ski-+ is remov$1 ,i confid5tly expect t x w be ! exception r ?an ! rule to see climb]s asc5d+ ,monte ,rosa or simil> peaks )\t ski at any p]iod ( ! ye>4 ,,summ] ,,ski ,%ort summ] ski are v useful4 ,a h&y size is ab\t #e feet 9 l5g?4 ,su* ski are v light & easily c>ri$1 & c be ti$ on betwe5 ! rucksack & ! back4 ,!y are becom+ v popul>1 & h a great future4 ,on h>d sn[ %ort ski are ne>ly z fa/ & z /eady z long ski4 ,on s(t sn[ !y are1 ( c\rse1 no?+ l s fa/1 & are apt to be j]ky & unpleasant if ! sn[ v>ies 9 d5sity or 9 spe$4 ,on /eep slopes ( s(t sn[ !y are q z good z long ski1 = !y are v easy to turn2 & s long z ! slope is /eep en\gh to desc5d ) cont9u\s turns1 %ort ski are z good or bett] ?an long ski4 ,x is on gradual slopes ( s(t sn[ or cru/ t _! disadvantage is m>k$4 ,!y are amaz+ly h&y = really /eep n>r[ slopes1 su* z gullies4 ,on %ort summ] ski "o c desc5d a gully #dj degrees /eep & ab\t #ab feet wide ) %>p cont9u\s turns4 ,/emm+ turns & ,*ri/ianias are ridicul\sly easy4 ,m\nta9e]s :o h nev] be5 on ski w f9d %ort ski q easy to manage4 ,a man :o c glissade ) safety d[n a /eep gully w be able to ski almo/ at once on good sn[ & on easy slopes )\t too _m falls1 & %\ld be able to make sl[ turns on %ort ski aft] a day or two's practice4 ,provid$ ! sn[ is good1 ! av]age nv is an ideal practice-gr\nd = beg9n]s ow+ to ! abs5ce ( ob/acles4 ,ev5 v %ort ski1 #c feet or #d feet 9 l5g?1 are a great deal bett] ?an no ski4 ,on /eep slopes !y are mo/ useful1 & ev5 on g5tle slopes1 provid$ ! sn[ is h>d1 "o c get a really f9e run on a pair ( ski no m ?an a y>d 9 l5g?4 ,,footnotes3 #ah ,i may p]haps ref] ! read] to my own book ,cross ,c\ntry ,ski-+ 7,me?u57 or to ,v4 ,caulfeild's book ,h[ to ,ski = ! te*nique ( ski-+4 #ai ,i am ignorant ( physics & %\ld be glad to h ?is guess corroborat$ by a physici/4 #bj ,ea/]n slopes reta9 p[d] sn[ r long] ?an we/]n slopes1 possibly because ! morn+ sun is less p[]ful ?an ! ev5+ sun1 z ! atmosph]e w>ms up z ! day proce$s4 ,fur!r1 z ! prevail+ alp9e w9ds bl[ f ! we/1 slopes t face ea/ are less (t5 spoil$ by w9d ?an ^? :i* face we/4 #ba ,sometimes :5 ! night is unusually mild ! cru/ is n suffici5tly firm1 & at ! fir/ t\* ( sun1 x does n m]ely melt sup]ficially produc+ ,telem>k cru/1 b gives "u ! ski & yields v na/y runn+4 ,?is is usually ! case at l[ altitudes 9 ,may4 #bb ,z ! prevail+ alp9e w9ds bl[ f ! we/1 we/]n rock ridges & rock faces are usually m free f sn[ ?an ea/]n ridges4 ,see footnote1 p4 #dji4 #bc ,z ! middle ( ! glaci] moves fa/] ?an ! sides1 & z ! l9e ( cleavage is at "r angles to ! l9e ( t5sion1 lat]al crevasses1 contr>y to :at casual d$uction might suppose1 run backw>ds f ! side ( ! glaci] to ! c5tre4 #bd ,provid$ t ! night has be5 cl\dless4 ,an ov]ca/ sky1 or ,fhn1 w only produce a v weak cru/ :i* gives at once :5 ! sun rises4 ,see footnote on p4 #dae4 ,a c\ple ( h\rs ( a cl\dless sky is1 h[ev]1 q en\gh to produce a good firm cru/ at night4 ,,*apt] ,x ,,m\nta9 ,,photography ,,by ,,sydney ,,sp5c] ,x is some:at sup]flu\s to draw att5tion to ! imm5se popul>ity atta9$ by photography 9 ! m\nta9s4 ,among climb]s v few are cont5t to supply _! requirem5ts f ! "w ( o!rs1 & x may safely be ass]t$ t a cam]a is almo/ c]ta9 ( its place 9 ! outfit ( at lea/ ?ree-f\r?s ( ! climb+ p>ties ( ! pres5t day4 ,x is true t ! majority ( ^! conf9e !mselves to snap%ot photography4 ,?is _c be reg>d$ z a s]i\s =m ( ! art1 see+ t x is practically impossible to compose a picture on ! dim9utive scale ( ! usual view-f9d]1 & t ! films g5]ally us$ are too unc]ta9 9 results4 ,photograph]s1 also1 ( ?is class v r>ely tr\ble to d _! own develop+4 ,excell5t "w c1 h[ev]1 be done ) a h& cam]a4 ,x has "o drawback3 ! l5s is usually a fixture1 & provides only "o fix$ focus1 a v important consid]ation 9 s]i\s photography4 ,b if ! climb] decides to use su* a h& cam]a1 ! foll[+ rem>ks may be ( s]vice4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,cam]a4 ,! be/ =m = m\nta9 "w is ! fold+ v>iety4 ,!re are innum]able good makes f :i* to *oose4 ,reflex cam]as are too bulky = m\nta9 "w4 ,! adju/m5ts %\ld be z simple z possible2 & = good "w a focuss+ glass is ess5tial4 ,! l5s1 by f> ! mo/ important portion ( ! cam]a1 %\ld be ! v be/ obta9able4 ,x %\ld be fitt$ ) automatic %utt] = in/antane\s & "t exposures1 & also ) a l5s cap4 ,?is latt] ,i h always pref]r$ to use = long exposures 9 pref]5ce to an automatic %utt]4 ,x is mu* easi] to avoid %ak+ ! cam]a 9 remov+ a l5s cap ?an x is 9 press+ ! lev] ( an automatic %utt]4 ,! use ( a wood5 fold+ tripod ) a triangle top ,i /rongly recomm5d 9 pref]5ce to ! brass or alum9ium tripod ) telescop+ legs1 s9ce su* legs are n suffici5tly rigid4 ,i advocate ! use ( glass plates2 & ?ree d>k slides1 or bett] /ill1 a *ang+ box to hold six plates or twelve cut films1 complete ! app>atus4 ,s f>1 ! mo/ satisfactory *ang+ box ,i h come across is "o #8made 9 ,g]many'2 ( :i* ! description is giv5 on ano!r page ( ?is *apt]4 ,an adapt] = a film-pack adds v little to ! weight1 & is a useful addition to ! outfit4 ,a h& cam]a su* z ,i h describ$ is ( great s]vice on rock climbs ( difficulty1 :]e x is n exp$i5t to emb>rass ! p>ty by tak+ ! m complicat$ p>aph]nalia ( a /& cam]a4 ,!re is a type ( climb] to :om ! m]ely gymna/ic or1 we w say1 a?letic side ( climb+ is n ! sole aim & object ( ! sport4 ,he is an en?usia/ic lov] ( ! m>vell\s beauties ( ! m\nta9 recesses1 & wi%es to take home impressions ( ! peaks & glaci]s z he himself has se5 !m2 = climb]s "k well t ! m\nta9s are ev] *ang+ 9 aspect f "o ye> to ano!r1 or ev5 f season to season4 ,he sees & desires to record atmosph]ic effects :i* may nev] be repeat$ dur+ 8 climb+ exp]i5ce4 ,he takes 8 photography s]i\sly1 & he is consequ5tly prep>$ to put himself to a consid]able am\nt ( tr\ble to obta9 really arti/ic records ( ! sc5]y among/ :i* he climbs4 ,= su* a type ( climb] ,i decid$ly recomm5d ! /& cam]a 9 pref]5ce to ! h& cam]a4 ,x entails r m tr\ble1 b ?is is c]ta9 to be ju/ifi$ by ! sup]ior results4 ,! compon5t p>ts ( a /& cam]a outfit may be enum]at$ %ortly z foll[s3 #a4 ,body ( ! ,cam]a4--,?is %\ld be ( ! be/ possible make1 ) metal-b\nd corn]s1 & fitt$ ) a metal turn-table4 ,all ! metal p>ts %\ld be ( alum9ium1 = ! sake ( lightness4 ,x %\ld h ! usual ris+ front & sw+-back1 & an adju/able focuss+ glass = horizontal or v]tical pictures4 ,! body mu/1 ( c\rse1 fold up1 & x is mo/ important t all ! adju/m5ts %\ld be z simple z possible1 s z n to wa/e valuable "t 9 a climb+ day4 #b4 ,! ,l5s4--,?is1 z ,i h already rem>k$1 is ! mo/ vital feature ( a cam]a4 ,= /& cam]a "w ,i w\ld urge ! adoption ( a set ( ?ree or f\r int]*angeable l5ses1 z ?is gives ! photograph] a wide range ( focal angles to *oose f1 & practically enables him to include 9 8 pictures j z mu* z he desires4 ,= a half-plate cam]a1 two #ad-;in*1 "o #aa-;in* & "o #i-;in* l5s make a good set1 giv+ a s]ies ( focal l5g?s rang+ f #e in*es to #ad in*es4 ,= a qu>t]-plate cam]a1 two #aa-;in*1 "o #i-;in* & "o #g-;in* l5s w give a range ( focal l5g?s f #d in*es to #aa in*es4 ,! l5s m\nt is fitt$ ) an iris diaphragm & a deta*able r+ m>k$ ) ! ap]tures suitable = ea* l5s comb9ation4 ,a yell[ scre51 ( su* a %ade z to increase ! exposure by ?ree times1 is useful :]e !re are trees or grass 9 ! =egr\nd1 & s]ves also to s(t5 ! %ad[s4 ,its use ensures cl\ds n be+ lo/ 9 developm5t ?r\gh ov]-exposure1 al?\gh x _c be claim$ t successful results may n be obta9$ )\t x4 ,x is also ( di/9ct advantage 9 a hazy atmosph]e4 ,a ,?ornton ,pick>d %utt] w be f\nd useful1 b = "t exposures ! l5s cap is really all t is necess>y4 #c4 ,?ree ord9>y d\ble-back slides are usually tak52 b !y may be replac$ by a *ang+ box--a m conv5i5t & compact way ( c>ry+ ! plates4 ,mo/ ( ! *ang+ boxes on ! m>ket are made ) a fold+ lea!r bag at "o end1 & ! *ang+ ( ! plates f front to back is effect$ by h&2 b ! writ] has always us$ a *ang+ box 9 :i* an inn] %ell pulls out l a draw]1 tak+ ) x1 by means ( a clip1 ! expos$ plate 9 its %ea?4 ,z soon z ! inn] %ell is drawn out to its full l5g? ! %ea? drops to ! bottom ( ! %ell4 ,?is is !n pu%$ back aga91 & ! us$ plate slides 9 at ! back ( ! unexpos$ plates1 :i* h mean:ile be5 pu%$ up by a spr+4 ,! metal %ea?s are numb]$ on ! back4 ,! photograph] c see :i* numb] has be5 tak5 by turn+ ov] ! box :5 he has p>tly pu%$ back ! inn] %ell aft] ! expos$ plate has dropp$ to ! bottom4 ,he w !n see ! numb] ?r\gh a r$ glass-cov]$ op5+4 ,z ?is appe>s to be ! only box ( ! k9d :i* is made1 x may be advisable to /ate t x is kn[n z ! #8,grundmann' *ang+ box4 ,"s ent]pris+ ,briti% firm %\ld be induc$ to br+ out some?+ simil>4 ,! movem5ts are s simple t x c h>dly fail to "w prop]ly4 ,six plates are g5]ally suffici5t = "o day's "w1 & a *ang+ box made = t numb] w n weigh m ?an ?ree d>k slides ) ! same numb] ( plates4 ,if desir$1 ! six plates c be replac$ by twelve cut films 9 suitable ?9 %ea?s4 #d4 ,! ,tripod4--,! ord9>y cam]a legs on ! m>ket are1 ev5 :5 fold$1 inconv5i5tly long = m\nta9 "w1 & = rock climb+ may prove a real s\rce ( dang]4 ,= com=t1 legs :5 fold$ %\ld n measure m ?an #ab in*es at ! utmo/4 ,x is be/ to h a set specially made1 & ,i "k ( no?+ bett] ?an a set made 9 ! foll[+ mann]4 ,! bottom section ( ea* leg is a solid squ>e-sid$ alum9ium b> ) a v %>p po9t4 ,?is slides into a squ>e wood5 frame4 ,ov] ! frame ! two next sections are fold$2 ! top "o folds inside ! second1 s z to unfold 9 ! same direction4 ,made 9 ?is way1 ! tops ne$ only to be press$ toge!r 9 ord] to fit !m1 ) a slight spr+1 on to ! pegs ( ! turn-table4 ,a cross /rut makes ! fit tight & immovable4 ,! total l5g? ( ! legs op5$ out is ab\t #db in*es1 :i* is q z long z is necess>y = m\nta9 "w4 ,a set ( legs made 9 ?is way /&s p]fectly rigid2 x w also g easily into ! side pocket ( ! rucksack1 or x c be c>ri$ on ! top ( ! sack )\t ! slighte/ inconv5i5ce to ! climb]4 #e4 ,! outfit is complet$ by a focuss+ clo?1 ) a runn+ tape along "o side1 :i* prev5ts ! clo? f bl[+ ab\t 9 ! w9d4 ,z reg>ds ! comp>ative m]its ( glass plates & films1 ! latt] h ! "o great advantage ( lightness1 b !y are notori\sly unc]ta9 & mu* m difficult to control 9 developm5t4 ,! mo/ satisfactory results are obta9$ ) sl[ plates1 ( :i* six are en\gh = any ord9>y exp$ition4 ,x is n a bad plan to take 9 addition an adapt] ) a film-pack1 = snap%ots ( climb+ incid5ts4 ,! be/ size ( cam]a to take is a debatable po9t4 ,half plate is ! l>ge/ :i* c be c>ri$ ) conv5i5ce2 & = ! be/ results !re is no "q :atev] t ! l>g] size is ! bett] to "w )4 ,a half-plate cam]a1 z describ$1 c be c>ri$ on mo/ asc5ts ( av]age difficulty2 ) ! possible exception1 p]haps1 ( /r5u\s rock climbs1 su* z ! ,dru or ! ,grpon1 :]e any?+ b a h& cam]a is liable to be a di/9ct incumbrance4 ,b on ! :ole1 = all-r\nd utility ,i am incl9$ to recomm5d ! qu>t]-plate size4 ,9 addition to ! economy 9 weight & bulk ( ! :ole app>atus1 ! qu>t]-plate negatives are a m conv5i5t size f :i* to make lant]n slides1 & excell5t enl>gem5ts c always be made f good negatives ( ?is dim5sion4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,*oice ( ,subject4 ,we come n[ to ! all-important "q ( *oice ( subject2 "o on :i* x is mo/ difficult to give def9ite advice1 see+ t s mu* dep5ds on ! arti/ic p]ceptions ( ! photograph]4 ,photography to a c]ta9 ext5t is a me*anical art1 b good photograph]s inve/ _! "w ) a decid$ individuality2 & x is ?is at :i* ! novice %\ld aim4 ,! fir/ ?+ to be> 9 m9d is ! prop] balance ( proportions4 ,to a*ieve ?is ! set ( int]*angeable l5ses already recomm5d$ are indisp5sable4 ,)\t !m a photograph] mu/ f9d consid]able difficulty 9 convey+ ! true impressions ( ! m\nta9 l&scape z se5 f ! po9t at :i* ! photograph is tak54 ,panoramic views ( di/ant ranges w ( c\rse always cont9ue to be tak52 b z pictures !y are ( small value unless !y are assi/$ by atmosph]ic effects ( cl\d or mi/4 ,9 photograph+ peaks close at h&1 x is usually be/ n to include m ?an "o summit 9 ! picture1 or at any rate to make "o peak ! c5tral po9t ( int]e/4 ,o!rs may only be includ$ if !y c be made to enhance ! value ( ! ma9 feature 9 ! composition4 ,! majority ( views ( ?is type look be/ if !y are tak5 on plates plac$ v]tically2 b ?is is by no means a rule to be rigidly foll[$4 ,broad m\nta9 masses1 su* z ,mont ,blanc & ! ,gr&es ,jorasses1 or composite peaks1 ( ! type ( ,monte ,rosa1 %\ld always be tak5 horizontally4 ,! *ief feature 9 ! picture %\ld nev] be plac$ 9 ! c5tre1 b r to "o side ( ! view2 & ! l9es ( int]v5+ ridges & glaci]s %\ld be includ$1 s z to lead ! eye t[>ds ! ma9 object4 ,?is produces ! necess>y impression ( di/ance & dep?2 an easy effect g5]ally1 if ! photo is tak5 f bel[1 b n always feasible if ! view is f a summit4 ,! effect ( di/ance & dep? is always mu* help$ by a good =egr\nd1 b ! =egr\nd mu/ n on any acc\nt draw ! att5tion f ! ma9 feature4 ,su* a =egr\nd is ( special value 9 ! case ( views ( peaks z se5 f a summit1 :]e x is n possible to include ! base ( ! peaks 9 ! picture4 ,a few rocks intrud+ 9 ! imm$iate =egr\nd1 or a ridge runn+ s z to connect ! di/ant view ) ! /&po9t ( ! photograph]1 removes ! feel+ ( blankness & ( lack ( di/ance :i* ! abs5ce ( any =egr\nd is apt to produce4 ,! am\nt ( sky :i* may be prop]ly includ$ %\ld occupy f ab\t a qu>t] to a ?ird ( ! plate4 ,too mu* sky produces a v bad effect2 :il/1 on ! o!r h&1 _m photograph]s make ! mi/ake ( br++ ! peaks too ne> ! top ( ! picture1 giv+ !m an unnaturally att5uat$ appe>ance4 ,ice-falls & mu*-brok5 glaci]s compose v easily4 ,on ! o!r h&1 broad expanses ( sn[-field are ab\t ! mo/ difficult subject ! m\nta9 photograph] c tackle4 ,! texture ( ! sn[ is ! "o ?+ to aim at4 ,if ?is is n br\ght out1 ! picture is valueless4 ,slight "u-exposure is ! secret ( success4 ,= ^! subjects x is bett] to h ! sun well 9 front1 z ! light on ! sn[y surface is !n well brok5 by %ad[s4 ,= ! o!r k9ds ( m\nta9 subjects ,i %\ld recomm5d ! novice1 :]e sl[ plates are us$1 to err on ! side ( ov]-exposure1 & to develop sl[ly4 ,by ?is me?od he w f9d x is easi] to get atmosph]e into 8 pictures4 ,a c]ta9 am\nt ( detail may be lo/ 9 ! di/ant objects1 b he w secure a mu* tru] gradation betwe5 8 di/ances4 ,z reg>ds ! developm5t ( sl[ plates1 x %\ld be not$ t ?is c be c>ri$ out ) comp>ative /rong light1 provid$ x is suitably %ad$4 ,! develop] %\ld be gradually increas$ 9 /r5g?4 ,! photograph] c !n see easily :at he is do+1 &1 by means ( bru%work1 c control ! developm5t ( any portion ( ! negative4 ,brok5 light is ess5tial to ! success ( mo/ m\nta9 photographs1 & = ?is reason ! be/ "t = tak+ !m is usually e>ly & late 9 ! day4 ,?is is ( c\rse n an inv>iable rule1 & ! photograph] mu/ be guid$ by ! subject he has 9 front ( him4 ,moreov]1 ! climb] is n always able to *oose ! "t ( day = 8 "w4 ,if ! midday light is v brilliant1 ! yell[ scre5 c be utiliz$4 ,p]sonally1 ,i h us$ x v seldom1 b h made a practice ( us+ a v small /op1 & h tru/$ to sl[ developm5t = ! re/4 ,sid5ote3 ,col\r ,photography4 ,i %\ld l also to draw att5tion to two o!r =ms ( photography :i* h be5 introduc$ 9 rec5t ye>s1 & h prov$ v attractive to climb]s4 ,col\r photography ex]cises an extraord9>y fasc9ation1 & x w\ld d\btless become /ill m popul> if ! plates 7 less co/ly4 ,!re are sev]al =ms ( plates & processes1 & ) all ( !m "s rem>kable results h be5 obta9$4 ,! diff]5t processes v>y some:at 9 simplicity ( manipulation4 ,"o ( ! simple/ is ! ,lumire ,auto*rome4 ,! photograph is tak5 9 ! ord9>y way1 b ) ! prop] light filt]1 z prescrib$1 fix$ on ! l5s front4 ,x is to be rememb]$ t ! focuss+ glass mu/ be rev]s$ ow+ to ! fact t ! plate is plac$ 9 ! d>k slide ) ! film turn$ inside4 ,! ess5tial po9t is to le>n to judge ( ! correct exposure4 ,ov]-exposure c be correct$ by int5sification1 b x is a tr\blesome process4 ,! developm5t is p]fectly simple if ! in/ructions giv5 are c>efully foll[$4 ,x is v important to see t ! solutions us$ are cold en\gh1 o!rwise ! unhappy photograph] runs ! risk ( wat*+ a p]fectly successful col\r picture melt away 9 front ( 8 eyes4 ,sid5ote3 ,/]eoscopic ,photography4 ,! o!r =m ref]r$ to is /]eoscopic photography1 :i* is m p>ticul>ly adapt$ to snap%ots ( climb+ incid5ts & to /udies ( rock & glaci] sc5]y ne> at h&1 s9ce ! pictures c be tak5 ) ! cam]a held at any angle1 ev5 po9t+ directly above ! head or bel[ ! feet1 & ! sc5es are aft]w>ds reproduc$ 9 m>vell\sly lifelike mann] 9 ! /]eoscope4 ,to secure ! full /]eoscopic effect ! #8l9es' ( ! picture %\ld />t f ! imm$iate =egr\nd & c>ry ! eye away to ! ma9 object1 i4e4 ! cam]a %\ld be held close d[n to ! surface ( wat] or glaci]1 or ) "o side close aga9/ a wall ( rock z =egr\nd4 ,a rock cre/ runn+ imm$iately away f ! cam]a1 or two1 conta9+ walls ( ice or rock on ei!r h&1 give ! be/ results1 & provide ! framework ( illusion = ! m di/ant sc5e4 ,! /]eoscopic effect is lo/ 9 di/ant views4 ,! h&ie/ size 9 ?is cam]a1 ! #8,v]ascope1' is #ajg cm4 by #de cm4 ,x is made ( metal ?r\gh\t4 ,x c>ries a deta*able magaz9e ( twelve plates1 & weighs r m ?an a pair ( field-glasses4 ,films c be sub/itut$ = plates = lightness1 b ! results are on ! :ole inf]ior4 ,if x is c>ri$ 9 a /rong lea!r case1 ! cam]a w /& an extraord9>y am\nt ( r\gh treatm5t on rocks & imm]sion 9 riv]s4 ,x is especially suit$ = difficult climb+ & exploration1 :]e x is desir$ to record special passages & incid5ts1 at angles1 & 9 circum/ances & climates1 9 :i* ! ord9>y cam]a is useless4 99 99 99 99 99 ,my f9al piece ( advice is1 nev] leave ! cam]a beh9d1 & nev] wa/e plates or "t unless ! result is likely to be successful4 ,,*apt] ,,xi ,,m\nta9e]+ ,,9 ,,tropical ,,c\ntries ,,by ,a4 ,f4 ,r4 ,,wolla/on 7,! sugge/ions conta9$ 9 ?is *apt] are bas$ on "s exp]i5ce ( travel 9 ! m\nta9s ( ,africa & ,new ,gu9ea1 & x is assum$ t ! conditions are n mat]ially diff]5t 9 ! m\nta9s ( tropical ,s\? ,am]ica4 ,x is tak5 = grant$ t ! transport animal is man1 & t aft] ent]+ ! m\nta9s ! travell] mu/ dep5d entirely on ! provisions he c>ries ) him4 ,! m$ical sugge/ions are int5d$ only = ^? :o h no special k ( ! subject1 & = conditions 9 :i* only ! simple/ treatm5t is possible47 ,,heal? ,! fir/ ess5tial to ! success ( an exp$ition lies 9 ! good heal? ( ! v>i\s memb]s ( ! p>ty4 ,h>d "w 9 ! try+ conditions ( tropical m\nta9s soon saps ! en]gy ( ! mo/ robu/1 b by tak+ prop] precautions a man may cont9ue 9 good heal? = six mon?s or ev5 long]4 ,sid5ote3 ,prev5tion ( ,sickness4 ,:5 ! body is = _m h\rs daily ba!d 9 sweat & sme>$ ) mud1 p]sonal cleanl9ess becomes ( ! fir/ importance4 ,a ba?1 if x c be manag$1 or a sponge-d[n1 %\ld be ! rule e ev5+1 & all cuts & scrat*es mu/ be c>efully att5d$ to & protect$ f infection4 ,! "q ( hot or cold wat] may be left to ! pref]5ce ( ! individual1 ) ?is res]vation1 t no man %\ld ev] take a cold ba? :5 he has cool$ d[n aft] freely p]spir+4 ,! tee? are liable 9 hot climates to become loose & ev5 to fall out4 ,!y %\ld be kept scrupul\sly clean1 & ! m\? may be wa%$ out ) a weak solution ( ,condy's fluid4 ,! hair %\ld at all times be cropp$ %ort bo? = com=t & cleanl9ess1 & p>aff9 or "s o!r oil %\ld be rubb$ into ! scalp4 ,a regul> action ( ! b[els is ev5 m necess>y 9 tropical ?an 9 temp]ate climates4 ,!re may be "s difficulty ab\t ?is on a diet ( t9n$ foods1 b x c g5]ally be ensur$ by a daily plate ( porridge 7see bel[1 ,con/ipation74 ,to avoid mal>ia e ef=t mu/ be made to escape ! attacks ( ! anopheles mosquito4 ,x w n be possible = ! travell] to c>ry ) him a mosquito-pro( t5t1 b fail+ ?is1 he mu/ use a well-con/ruct$ mosquito net1 made 9 "o piece1 )\t an op5+ at ! side4 ,! l[] edge ( ! net %\ld n hang loosely1 b %\ld be tuck$ "u ! edge ( ! mattress if "o be us$1 or o!rwise /ret*$ tightly r\nd ! edge ( ! b$4 ,! me%es ( ! musl9 %\ld n be less ?an twelve to ! in*4 ,x is good economy1 z well z be+ m humane1 to provide y\r #8boys' & o!r s]vants ) mosquito nets4 ,mosquito boots1 i4e4 light boots ) long loose upp]s ( canvas or ?9 lea!r1 into :i* ! tr\s]s c be tuck$1 are conv5i5tly worn 9 ! ev5+ to prev5t mosquitoes bit+ ! ankles4 ,if a camp be occupi$ = sev]al days1 x is advisable to see t /agnant pools ne> by are fill$ up1 & t no disc>d$ t9s are ly+ ab\t to become fill$ ) ra9-wat]1 9 :i* mosquitoes may bre$4 ,"h x may be conv5i5t to /ate t v _m diseases ( ! ,tropics--*ol]a1 dys5t]y1 typhoid1 bilh>zia1 etc4--are spread *iefly by means ( wat]4 ,x is !re=e ( ! greate/ importance to make sure ( a supply ( pure wat]4 ,filt]s w remove mud & o!r susp5d$ matt] f wat]1 & a good filt] 9 p]fect condition may provide a /]ile wat]2 b x is seldom possible to keep a filt] p]fectly clean1 & x is bett] to d )\t x altoge!r4 ,if ! wat] is /agnant1 or if !re is any possibility ( its hav+ be5 contam9at$ 9 any way1 x is always advisable to boil x & make tea1 or if x is pref]r$1 to a]ate x ) sp>klets4 8,:5 9 d\bt1 boil10 is a gold5 rule4 ,z a m$ic9al prev5tion ( mal>ia !re is no?+ m effectual ?an to take a daily dose ( #e gra9s ( qu99e bihydro*loride4 ,z ?is is a some:at exp5sive drug1 ! native memb]s ( ! exp$ition1 if !y are num]\s1 may be giv5 ! less co/ly 7b less soluble7 qu99e bisulphate1 #e gra9s4 ,if x is n conv5i5t to give qu99e to ! natives e day1 x may be giv5 to !m 9 #aj-;gra9 doses twice a week on consecutive days4 ,! tabloids may be sug>-coat$ = ! natives1 :o may o!rwise surreptiti\sly reject !m4 7,! foll[+ sugge/ions are int5d$ = ! necess>ily limit$ possibilities ( a m\nta9 camp47 ,sid5ote3 ,treatm5t4 ,mal>ia4--,s long z 8 temp]ature is above normal1 ! sick man %\ld1 if possible1 be kept 9 b$4 ,give #c gra9s ( calomel foll[$ by a dose ( ,epsom salts to cle> ! liv] & b[els4 ,cont9ue to give ?ree doses ( #e gra9s ea* ( qu99e bihydro*loride e day t ! fev] la/s2 b d n give ! qu99e :ile ! temp]ature is rais$4 ,:5 ! attack has ceas$ give #aj gra9s daily = a week1 & aft]w>ds cont9ue ) ! regul> daily dose ( #e gra9s4 ,at ! same "t x is v important to make sure ( a regul> action ( ! b[els4 ,if1 :ile ! attack la/s1 heada*e is v sev]e & p]si/5t1 #e or #aj gra9s ( ph5acet9 may be giv52 b ?is drug is greatly abus$ & is (t5 ( little or no use4 ,sweat+ may be /imulat$ by giv+ copi\s draughts ( hot tea2 :5 ! sweat+ /age is at an end1 ! pyjamas %\ld be imm$iately *ang$4 ,di>rha is a v common tr\ble1 p>ticul>ly :5 no fre% food is obta9able4 ,x is usually suffici5t to take a dose ( ca/or oil & to eat z little z possible = #bd h\rs4 ,if ?is treatm5t is n effective1 give #aj gra9s ( bismu? subnitrate ?ree times daily1 & a diet ( milk & arr[root or ,horlick's malt$ milk4 ,if ! di>rha ceases1 b !re is /ill discom=t 9 ! b[els1 #aj drops ( *lorodyne may be giv51 b 9 mo/ cases x is bett] to avoid ! use ( ?is drug4 ,dys5t]y4--,re/ 9 b$1 w>m?1 a diet ( milk & wat] & arr[root1 & a prelim9>y dose ( ca/or oil are ! fir/ ess5tials ( ! treatm5t4 ,sev]e cases may be well treat$ by ! use ( emet9e hydro*loride1 9 k]at9-coat$ ca*ets1 conta9+ "o -gra9 dose4 ,"o dose %\ld be tak5 ea* day1 & ! treatm5t %\ld be cont9u$ until he has tak5 altoge!r #h gra9s4 ,z an aft]-treatm5t x may be good practice to take #b drams ( liquid p>aff9 e night4 ,!re are "s :o advocate ! regul> use ( ?is e day z a prev5tative ( inte/9al disease1 b su* a ?+ w be h>dly practicable on a m\nta9 exp$ition ) limit$ transport4 ,! treatm5t by ipecacuanha _c be recomm5d$ = camp use4 ,less sev]e types ( dys5t]y may be treat$ by giv+ small doses 7#a dram7 ( sulphate ( magnesia e two or ?ree h\rs to ensure a free wat]y purgation1 :i* may be cont9u$ until ! pa9 has ceas$4 ,if ! disease proves to be intractable1 ! sick man %\ld be remov$ to ! ne>e/ place ( civilization z soon z possible4 ,con/ipation is n a v common tr\ble 9 tropical m\nta9 exp$itions4 ,x may g5]ally be avoid$ by eat+ a daily plate ( porridge &1 if !y c be c>ri$1 by eat+ prunes & figs4 ,if ! camp arrangem5ts make bread-mak+ possible1 x is a good plan to mix ) ! :ite fl\r "s :ole meal1 or1 9 c\ntries :]e x is gr[n1 ! meal made f millet4 ,if none ( ^! measures ensures a daily action ( ! b[els1 a dose ( sulphate ( magnesia 7 to #a ounce7 may be tak5 e>ly 9 ! morn+1 or "o #8,liv+/one ,r\s]' or casc>a sagrada or two vegetable laxatives 7,burr\ghs ,wellcome7 may be tak5 ov]-night4 ,sun/roke is n at all likely to occur1 b if a s]i\s case %\ld happ51 & ! temp]ature rise to #aje or #ajf1 ! pati5t %\ld be /ripp$ & wrapp$ 9 cold wet blankets until ! temp]ature falls to #ajc1 aft] :i* he %\ld be plac$ 9 b$ 9 ! d>ke/ & coole/ place possible2 ! b[els mu/ be kept op5 & a liquid diet giv5 = "s days4 ,c\ghs & ,colds are sometimes exce$+ly tr\blesome4 ,!y may (t5 be cur$ at ! outset by tak+ a hot ba? 7if t be practicable7 ) mu/>d 9 x1 foll[$ by b$ ) _m blankets & a dose 7#aj to #ae gra9s7 ( ,dov]'s p[d]4 ,a sore ?roat may be treat$ by frequ5t g>gles ( weak solution ( potassium p]manganate 7,condy's fluid7 & by suck+ tabloids ( *lorate ( pota%4 ,nasal cat>rh may sometimes be cur$ by sniff+ ! vap\r aris+ f ! op5 m\? ( a bottle ( =mal94 ,too?a*e is "o ( ! mo/ frequ5t & mo/ di/ress+ tr\bles ( a m\nta9 exp$ition1 & x ought1 z f> z possible1 to be avoid$ by visit+ a d5ti/ be=e leav+ civilization4 ,if ! pa9 is 9 a decay$ too?1 x is sometimes suffici5t1 aft] cle>+ away ! debris1 to put into ! cavity "s p[d]$ c>bonate ( soda2 x is m efficaci\s to put 9 v c>efully a small drop ( pure c>bolic acid on a plug ( cotton wool4 ,pa9 at ! root ( a too? may be reliev$ by pa9t+ ! gum ) t9cture ( iod9e1 b ! *eek %\ld be held away f ! jaw until ! t9cture has dri$4 ,"s =ms ( too?a*e c only be treat$ by extraction1 & no exp$ition ought to make a long j\rney )\t ?ree or f\r =ceps4 ,! suff]] w probably pref] extraction at ! h&s ( an amateur to ! horrors ( prolong$ too?a*e4 ,sleeplessness is (t5 a v s]i\s tr\ble1 n less at high altitudes ?an 9 ! swelt]+ heat ( ! foo?ills4 ,sleep may sometimes be induc$ by dr9k+ a cup ( hot cocoa %ortly be=e go+ to b$2 x is also a good plan to h biscuits )9 rea* dur+ ! night4 ,if ! insomnia is v p]si/5t1 x may become necess>y to give up smok+ & to r$uce z f> z possible ! consumption ( tea4 ,! use ( p[]ful sleep+-draughts is /rongly to be deprecat$1 except 9 extreme cases4 ,conjunctivitis is c]ta9 to occur to "o or m memb]s ( ! exp$ition4 ,x is easily treat$ by a weak solution ( boric acid1 or an a/r+5t solution ( z9c sulphate 7#a gra9 9 #a ounce ( wat]74 ,an eye-ba? is easily c>ri$1 & is v useful4 ,sk9 ,diseases4--,! mo/ common t is likely to be met ) is #8prickly heat1' :i* is due to ext5sive sweat+4 ,! am\nt ( fluids drunk %\ld be cut d[n z mu* z possible1 & "s relief may be obta9$ by ! use ( a weak solution ( c>bolic acid 7#a 9 #ej74 ,x is a good plan to use a du/+ p[d] be=e go+ to b$4 #8,scrub ,it*' & #8,dhobie ,it*' are names giv5 to a v irritat+ & inflam$ condition ( ! sk91 m especially ( ! moi/] p>ts1 su* z ! arm-pits & ! inside ( ! ?ighs4 ,x is 9 _m cases p>ticul>ly tr\blesome at night1 & x is n at all easy to cure4 ,! "p %\ld be kept scrupul\sly clean1 & a sulphur o9tm5t 7#aj p] c5t7 may be appli$4 ,a du/+ p[d] ( z9c & boric acid (t5 gives tempor>y relief f ! irritation4 ,r+worm ( "o k9d or ano!r is almo/ c]ta9 to occur among a l>ge numb] ( m54 ,x is hopeless to expect to cure a case dur+ ! c\rse ( an exp$ition1 b ! spread ( x may be *eck$ by ! use ( a sulphur o9tm5t or by pa9t+ ! "p ) l9im5t ( iod9e4 ,body ,p>asites4--,9 places :]e #8jigg]s' are f\nd1 x is c]ta9 t ! m5 are adepts at _! extraction2 b a ,european1 :o takes prop] c>e ( 8 feet & we>s long boots 9 camp1 ne$ n be tr\bl$ by !m4 ,if ! body is invad$ by lice1 !y c be got rid ( by ! use ( a m]cury o9tm5t4 ,snake ,bite requires ! mo/ prompt treatm5t4 ,)\t loss ( "t a /rong ligature mu/ be ti$ ab\t ! limb above ! bite3 ?us1 = a bite on ! f+] ! ligature may be at ! base ( ! f+]s1 = a bite on ! h& or =e>m x mu/ be above ! elb[1 & = a bite on ! foot or leg ! ligature mu/ be above ! knee4 ,! ligature mu/ be twi/$ tightly by means ( a /ick1 & at int]vals ( ab\t half an h\r x %\ld be relax$ = a few seconds to prev5t ! risk ( gangr5e4 ,) a %>p knife ! :ole ( ! area ab\t ! puncture %\ld be freely cut away1 & ! w\nd %\ld be wa%$ ) a /rong solution ( p]manganate ( pota%4 ,a less h]oic1 b less reliable1 treatm5t is to make two or ?ree incisions into ! fle% ab\t ! puncture1 & to rub into ! cuts cry/als ( p]manganate ( pota%4 ,a small quantity ( alcohol may be giv51 & ! pati5t may be put to b$ & kept w>m4 ,! popul> rem$ies ( l>ge quantities ( br&y1 walk+ ab\t1 & suck+ ! w\nd are ( no value4 ,lee*es1 by reason ( _! delicate gait1 (t5 f9d _! way into ! mo/ intimate & unexpect$ places1 & may be gorg$ ) blood be=e !y are detect$4 ,!y %\ld nev] be pull$ (f3 a t\* ) ! juice out ( a well-smok$ pipe w cause !m to %rivel & drop (f4 ,9 ! e>ly morn+s1 :5 lee*es /ret* !mselves expectant on e twig1 a wise man w walk 9 ! re> ( 8 c>avan4 ,cuts & ,scrat*es1 if n att5d$ to at once1 may lead to abscesses & #8veldt-sores' & an inf9ity ( tr\ble4 ,ev5 ! smalle/ scrat* %\ld be treat$ at once ) ! iod9e bottle1 :i* may be easily c>ri$ 9 a pocket1 or if necess>y1 ) a b&age4 ,boils are be/ treat$ by du/+ ) boric acid p[d] & protect+ !m ) a gauze dress+4 ,:5 !y come to a head1 ! top may be cut (f & a drop ( pure c>bolic acid appli$1 aft] :i* a gauze dress+ mu/ be us$ until x is completely heal$4 ,abscesses may be op5$ ) a %>p knife1 :5 !y #8po9t1' & dress$ ) a wet gauze dress+1 frequ5tly *ang$1 until ! dis*>ge has ceas$4 ,! smalle/ abscesses & boils %\ld be treat$ ) extreme c>e1 z !y are v liable 9 ! ,tropics to develop into ulc]s if neglect$4 ,! treatm5t ( ,spra9s & ,fractures mu/ be le>nt f "o ( ! _m small h&books ( ,fir/-aid4 ,sid5ote3 ,m$ic9e ,cases & ,drugs4 ,= use 9 ,africa no bett] case has be5 devis$ ?an ! #8,congo ,*e/' 7,no4 #bej7 ( ,messrs4 ,burr\ghs1 ,wellcome ,co41 & 9 o!r c\ntries1 :]e x _c be c>ri$ f>1 x is useful z a /ore to be kept at ! base camp4 ,a small] case1 :i* w fulfil mo/ ( ! ord9>y requirem5ts1 is ! ,no4 #bca case1 weight ab\t #g lb4 ,= ! high] asc5ts1 :]e only ! b>e/ necessities c be c>ri$1 a lea!rn pocket-case 7su* z ,no4 #aad1 ,b4 ,w4 ,co47 %\ld be tak54 ,9 all circum/ances x w be advisable to take an additional supply ( b&ages & dress+s1 :i* _c be conta9$ 9 ! case itself4 ,x is important t all drugs %\ld be obta9$ fre% f ! mak]s %ortly be=e ! dep>ture ( ! exp$ition4 ,! foll[+ is a li/ ( drugs1 etc41 :i* may be f\nd useful 9 a tropical exp$ition3 ,qu99e bihydro*loride gr4 v4 ,qu99e bisulphate gr4 v4 ,blaud pill gr4 iv4 ,potassium *lorate gr4 v4 ,dov] p[d] gr4 v4 ,iron & ars5ic comp\nd4 ,bismu? subnitrate gr4 v4 ,g+] ess5ce m94 x4 ,potassium p]manganate gr4 ii4 ,calomel gr4 i4 ,salol gr4 v4 ,salic9 gr4 v4 ,laxative vegetable4 #8,liv+/one ,r\s]4' ,z9c sulphate gr4 i4 ,opium gr4 i4 ,aspir9 gr4 v4 ,ph5acet9 gr4 v4 ,soda m9t4 ,ea/on syrup dr4 ,casc>a sagrada gr4 ii4 ,ipecacuanha 7s9e emet9e7 gr4 v4 ,9 addition to ! above1 :i* are tak5 9 tabloid =m1 a supply %\ld be tak5 ( ! foll[+3 ,pure c>bolic acid4 ,boric acid4 ,ca/or oil4 ,sulphate ( magnesia4 ,iod(orm4 ,lanol94 ,vasel94 ,sulphur o9tm5t 7#a 9 #aj74 ,ammoniat$ m]cury o9tm5t 7#a 9 #aj74 ,iod9e l9im5t4 ,& ! foll[+ v>i\s articles3 ,metal-h&l$ lancet4 ,dress+ scissors4 ,dissect+ =ceps4 ,probe4 ,cl9ical !rmomet]s4 ,cau/ic hold] & po9ts4 ,suture ne$les & silk4 ,safety p9s4 ,mu/>d leaves4 ,adhesive pla/]1 #a in* & #b in*4 ,c\rt pla/]4 ,oil$ silk4 ,l>ge supply ( b&ages ( #a-;in* & #b-;in* wid?4 ,supply ( l9t4 ,gauze4 ,,equipm5t 7,^! notes are m]ely int5d$ to supplem5t1 ) special ref]5ce to ! ,tropics1 ! in=mation on ?is subject conta9$ 9 o!r *apt]s47 ,sid5ote3 ,food4 ,! ma9/ay ( ! #8,sahib' or #8,bwana' or #8,tuan' mu/ be ! same z ! food ( 8 m53 ?us1 9 a :eat c\ntry 8 food is fl\r1 9 a millet c\ntry1 millet1 & 9 a rice c\ntry1 rice2 & to ! ord9>y ,engli%man ! wor/ ( ^! is rice4 ,an important po9t to arrive at 9 select+ t9n$ provisions is to take z great a v>iety z possible4 ,?\gh x is true t aft] a few mon?s all t9s1 meat or fi% or fruit1 seem to h "o & ! same flav\r1 x is possible t a /oma* jad$ by a long c\rse ( beef or mutton may welcome jugg$ h>e or curri$ prawns4 ,x is wor? :ile1 too1 to take a few t9s de luxe = special fe/ivals4 ,9 hot places !re is (t5 a crav+ = /rong flav\rs1 & a palate :i* %uns su* ?+s at home cries out = pickles & sauces4 ,!re is p]haps little ne$ to say t all t9n$ foods %\ld be obta9$ f ! be/ manufactur]s1 & t any t9 :i* %[s a suspicion ( #8bulg+' %\ld be at once disc>d$4 ,x is probable t no fre% vegetables w be available1 & x is un=tunate t ( ^? 9 t9s ! wet vegetables are too heavy = limit$ transport1 :ile ! dri$ v>iety are ta/eless & require a long "t = cook+3 an exception mu/ be made 9 fav\r ( ,murray ,cooksley's dri$ potatoes :i* c be /rongly recomm5d$4 ,fail+ vegetables1 x is v important to eat fruit3 dri$ apple *ips1 pe>s1 prunes1 pea*es & apricots1 m p>ticul>ly ! latt]1 %\ld be eat5 daily4 ,rais9s & figs are good food1 & are conv5i5tly c>ri$ 9 ! pocket ) biscuits = lun*4 ,g+] is useful 9 c\nt]act+ ! prevail+ flav\r ( t94 ,"s ( ! *eeses1 notably ! flat ,dut* v>iety1 are a useful food1 & %\ld c]ta9ly be tak52 nor %\ld an*ovies & olives be =gott54 ,9 ! high] regions !re w be a /rong desire--ev5 /rong] ?an 9 ! ,alps1 possibly on acc\nt ( ! di/a/e = x 9 ! hot c\ntry bel[--= butt]1 & ?is %\ld be ( ! be/ k9d3 x is a good plan to take two v>ieties1 z ! flav\r ( t9n$ butt]s v>ies consid]ably4 ,! usual dr9k w probably be tea1 z c(fee is heavy to c>ry1 & is usually undr9kable z made by ! native cook4 ,a cup ( cocoa be=e b$time is an easily c>ri$ luxury4 ,cond5s$ milk %\ld c]ta9ly be tak5 9 consid]able quantities = use 9 sickness2 ! #8,ideal' br& ( unsweet5$ milk mixes well ) porridge or /ew$ fruit4 ,a great sav+ 9 transport may be effect$ by ! use ( sac*>9e 7or pref]ably sax97 tabloids4 ,! use ( alcohol is a "q ab\t :i* no "o w d>e to dogmatize4 ,x %\ld c]ta9ly n be tak5 dur+ ! day1 b1 9 ! op9ion ( ! writ]1 a small glass ( :isky or1 9 ! ,dut* fa%ion1 ( g9 at or be=e ! ev5+ meal adds to ! enjoym5t ( monoton\s food & assi/s dige/ion4 ,a bottle or two ( br&y %\ld be tak5 = em]g5cies1 & *ampagne is ( great value 9 ! convalesc5t /age ( mal>ia or o!r fev]s3 ?is latt] %\ld be tak5 9 p9t bottles1 :i* may be left at ! base camp1 :i!r sick m5 w necess>ily be s5t4 ,sid5ote3 ,cante54 ,a great deal ( +5uity has be5 devot$ to ! inv5tion ( cante5s1 b mo/ ( !m are useless to ! m\nta9 explor]1 :o c only af=d to c>ry ! fewe/ & mo/ necess>y articles4 ,weight may be sav$ by us+ plates ( alum9ium1 & cook+-pots may be ( ! same metal if x is possible to ensure _! ?or\gh clean+4 ,kettles %\ld be made ( iron1 & cups or mugs ( enamell$ iron2 cups c be made to pack m conv5i5tly "o inside ! o!r if ! l[] half ( ! h&le is cut (f4 ,9 ^? ,ea/]n c\ntries1 :]e k]os5e t9s are us$ = ! transport ( provisions1 an excell5t fire-place c be made by us+ disc>d$ t9s laid on _! side--a few holes are knock$ 9 ! top & ! fire plac$ inside4 ,t9s ( ! same k9d c be easily adapt$ to ! purpose ( bak+ bread2 & 9 ?is connection x may be m5tion$ t 9 c\ntries :]e banana w9e _c be obta9$1 a v good sub/itute is yea/ cakes1 "o t9 ( :i* 7price ab\t #as4 #f;d47 makes bread en\gh = "o man = six mon?s3 bread made ) bak+ p[d] v quickly becomes dry & uneatable4 ,t9-op5]s are v liable to be lo/ or brok51 & a quantity ( !m %\ld be tak54 ,sid5ote3 ,clo?+4 ,! mo/ important p>ts ( ! clo?+ 9 tropical m\nta9e]+ are ! head-ge> & foot-ge>4 ,9 ! l[] hills & 9 ! e>ly "p ( ! day :5 ! sun is really hot1 a wide-brimm$ hat or a helmet ) a good protection = ! back ( ! neck %\ld be us$2 if ! helmet is made ( #8pi?' x %\ld be cov]$ on ! outside ) ! ?9ne/ wat]pro( mat]ial1 o!rwise x becomes sodd5 & heavy ) ! fir/ ra94 ,hats & helmets %\ld be l9$ ) ?9 r$ clo?2 ! latt] are m *eaply b\ght 9 tropical t[ns ?an 9 ?is c\ntry4 ,! mo/ c>eful att5tion %\ld be devot$ to ! "q ( boots1 & x is 9 all cases wise to take m pairs ?an are ?\ght to be necess>y4 ,mo/ p w f9d x impossible to we> 9 ! ,tropics ! heavy boots to :i* _m are accu/om$ 9 ! ,alps2 ! excessive p]spiration makes ! feet s(t & m easily bli/]$1 & e extra ounce ( weight is a s]i\s consid]ation4 ,! mo/ suitable are ord9>y nail$ %oot+ boots1 ) a pl5tiful supply ( sp>e nails or #8saccorb' screws = ! high] asc5ts4 ,x is a good plan to h ! upp]s made 9 "o piece1 i4e4 ) no seam d[n ! back4 ,9 ! ,tropics all lea!rn objects become coat$ ) m\ld 9 a few h\rs1 & rot ) a/oni%+ rapidity1 s t x is advisable to expose sp>e boots to ! sun :5ev] ! opportunity occurs4 ,dubb91 or "s o!r prep>ation ( ! k9d1 %\ld be freely us$4#be ,at ! end ( a h>d day x is ! greate/ com=t to be able to *ange into a pair ( light & s(t %oes or boots2 :5 transport is v limit$ x w /ill be possible to c>ry a pair ( ,canadian moccas9s4 ,9 ! l[] c\ntry & at ! base camp x is advisable 9 ! ev5+ to we> mosquito boots 7see above1 ,mal>ia74 ,khaki or drill suits are m *eaply made locally ?an 9 ?is c\ntry2 !y %\ld be made v amply1 & l>ge pockets provid$4 ,sleeves are an almo/ intol]able nuisance 9 ! l[] gr\nd1 & !y may be cut v %ort or disp5s$ ) altoge!r4 ,%orts are cool & com=table1 b !y %\ld n be worn 9 places :]e lee*es are f\nd1 & !y _c be recomm5d$ 9 any case1 z ! bruises & scrat*es on ! knees are v liable to suppurate 9 hot climates4 ,tr\s]s are pref]able to bree*es or knick]bock]s1 & light canvas anklets hold+ ! ends ( ! tr\s]s ov] ! boots are cool] ?an putties4 ,= und]clo?+ e man mu/ decide = himself4 ,!re are ^? :o c we> wooll5 ve/s & flannel %irts 9 ! ,tropics2 b bo? ( ^? g>m5ts quickly become #8felt$' ) pr(use sweat+1 & no am\nt ( wa%+ w re/ore _! s(tness4 ,l95 or cotton ve/s are easily wa%$1 & are usually f\nd to be ! mo/ com=table4 ,a flannel %irt & s(t wooll5 sweat] %\ld be tak5 to we> at night 9 ! m\nta9s4 ,?ick wooll5 socks1 sev]al sizes too l>ge1 w (t5 help y to sleep on a cold night3 a w>m wooll5 cap is useful 9 ! same way4 ,*ol]a belts h be5 /rongly recomm5d$ by "s travell]s1 b !y are (t5 a s\rce ( dang] r ?an o!rwise4 ,! important ?+ to aim at is to protect ! vital organs ( ! abdom5 f *ill dur+ ! night1 & ?is may be effect$ by fa/5+ a wide t[el ab\t ! middle ( ! body2 ev5 9 ! hotte/ night ?is w n be f\nd oppressive3 ! same purpose w be answ]$ by a fold$ blanket1 :i* may be pull$ up & d[n ov] ! %\ld]s & feet :5 ! night becomes *illy4 ,a light mack9to% cape or pon*o rea*+ to ! knees is ( great use = we>+ ab\t ! camp1 :5 a dry *ange ( clo!s has be5 put on aft] a day's m>*4 ,sid5ote3 ,furniture4 ,( b$s none has yet be5 f\nd bett] ?an ! ord9>y ,x-patt]n1 b z ?is is some:at heavy to c>ry1 x w probably h to be left beh9d :5 ! m\nta9s are rea*$4 ,9 c\ntries :]e bulky loads c be c>ri$1 ! #8,wolseley' valise is ( ! greate/ value4 ,"o load c>ries a man's b$d+1 sp>e boots1 clo?+ & a v>iety ( odds & ends1 & ! valise itself is us$ z a b$1 :i* c be made tol]ably com=table by putt+ leaves & moss und]nea? x2 if ! flaps are suffici5tly wide1 ! valise c also be us$ z a sort ( make%ift t5t4 ,blankets %\ld be ( l>ge size 7#if by #fj in*es71 & x w be f\nd t two or ?ree light blankets are bett] ?an a s+le heavy "o2 by sew+ tapes at ! edges ( "o ( ! blankets x c be conv]t$ into a sleep+-bag :5 requir$4 ,clo!s %\ld be c>ri$1 n haphaz>d ) ! blankets1 b 9 ?9 cotton bags 7ab\t #cj by #bj in*es73 "o ( ^! bags1 fill$ ) s(t clo!s1 may be us$ z a pill[2 b ! extra lab\r ( c>ry+ a well-made hair or fea!r pill[ is m ?an balanc$ by ! com=t x ensures4 ,9 m\nta9 regions1 :]e vegetation is luxuriant1 a m com=table b$ c be made 9 ?is fa%ion3 f\r ,y-%ap$ pieces ( wood are driv5 into ! gr\nd at int]vals correspond+ to ! f\r corn]s ( a b$2 two %ort pieces ( /iff wood are laid across ! =ks ( ! ,y's at ! head & foot ( ! b$1 & on !m are laid long sapl+s f "o end to ano!r--^! are easily secur$ 9 _! place by rattans or o!r creep]s or fibres1 :i* are sure to be f\nd gr[+ 9 su* places1 or by /r+4 ,on ! top ( ! b$/ead ?us made leaves or grass may be laid1 & on ! top ( ?is ! b$d+4 ,9 places :]e !re is no vegetation1 & :]e ! ,wolseley valise _c be c>ri$1 ! b$d+ mu/ be laid on a ?9 wat]pro( %eet1 :i* %\ld measure n less ?an #if by #fj in*es4 ,su* a wat]pro( %eet may be ( use 9 o!r places also3 x is n g5]ally kn[n t fleas h a /rong dislike to india-rubb]1 & 9 places :]e ^! little creatures ab\nd a complete immunity f !m may be enjoy$ by sleep+ on a mack9to% %eet4 ,a camp-*air is a necessity :i* mu/ be c>ri$ z f> z circum/ances w all[4 ,! be/ is ! #8,rhoorkee' *air1 :i* accommodates itself to ! mo/ unev5 gr\nd1 & c be tak5 to pieces & pack$ ) ! b$d+2 sp>e canvas %\ld be tak5 = m5d+4 ,a useful b less /rong type is ! ,x-patt]n fold+ *air4 ,wa%+ ,app>atus4--,an alum9ium bas9 ) a canvas cov] w hold all ! necess>y ge>4 ,duplicates %\ld be tak5 ( ev]y?+1 p>ticul>ly sponges1 :i* are v liable to be attack$ & dev\r$ by crickets4 ,a pair ( b>b]'s clipp]s is indisp5sable4 ,sid5ote3 ,t5ts4 ,t5ts are among ! mo/ important "p ( ! equipm5t1 & at ! same "t !y pres5t ! greate/ difficulty4 ,9 an exp$ition to high m\nta9s 9 ! ,tropics e v>iety ( climate w be exp]i5c$1 f ! swelt]+ heat ( ! pla9s to ! alp9e cold ( ! heights1 & x w n be possible to c>ry t5ts suitable to all ^! conditions4 ,! only ?+ to d is to effect a compromise by tak+ t5ts :i* w n be unbe>ably hot 9 ! l[ c\ntry1 & :i* at ! same "t are n too heavy to be c>ri$ into ! m\nta9s4 ,! fir/ ( ^! requirem5ts is met by us+ a t5t provid$ ) an out] fly--an absolute ess5tial 9 a hot c\ntry2 ! second is a*iev$ by mak+ ! t5t su* t ! fly & ! t5t itself c be us$ sep>ately :5 transport is /rictly limit$4 ,"o condition is c]ta9 to be met ) at all altitudes1 & t is ! frequ5t & abundant ra9fall2 ?is makes x imp]ative t bo? ! out] fly & ! ro( ( ! t5t %\ld be made ( ra9-pro( canvas4 ,9 ! l[] c\ntry x is advisable to aim at ! ideal ( "o man "o t5t1 z ! close proximity ( p]sons 9 a small1 hot t5t is likely to lead to friction ( ano!r k9d4 ,! smalle/ compatible ) com=t = "o man is a #8,:ymp]' patt]n t5t1 #f by #f feet on ! gr\nd1 & #f feet high at ! ridge4 ,a t5t ( ?is size may be occupi$ by two p 9 ! m\nta9s1 b a t5t ( #g by #g feet w\ld be pref]able1 ?\gh heavi]4 ,! inn] t5t is slung f ! ridge pole by loops ab\t #f in*es long2 ! out] fly is /ret*$ ov] ! ridge pole1 & %\ld project beyond ! inn] t5t n less ?an #a foot at ea* end & #b feet at ! sides4 ,! out] fly & ! ro( ( ! t5t %\ld be made ( "s =m ( ,willesd5 canvas capable ( )/&+ a heavy d[np\r ( ra92 to ensure lightness1 ! ends & side walls ( ! t5t may be made ( a light] mat]ial1 su* z wat]pro( duck4 ,bo? ends %\ld be made to op51 & also to be lac$ up tightly 9 ! ev5t ( heavy ra9 or /rong w9d or cold4 ,l>ge pockets sewn on to ! side walls1 & a light cord /ret*$ f end to end "u ! ridge1 w be f\nd useful4 ,9 heavily timb]$ c\ntries a consid]able am\nt ( transport may be sav$ by disc>d+ t5t-poles & cutt+ wood = ! purpose f ! neighb\r+ jungle4 ,if a belt ( bamboos is met )1 "s ( ^! may be cut & c>ri$ on f camp to camp4 ,at ! base or o!r long-occupi$ camp x w g5]ally be f\nd possible to build a h\se ?at*$ ) grass or leaves1 :i* w be always cool] ?an a t5t1 z well z m commodi\s = ! ,europeans4 ,"o or m #8,mumm]y' t5ts = ! ,europeans may be tak5 = ! f9al asc5ts ( m\nta9s4 ,a great disadvantage ( ^! t5ts1 if made ( "s light wat]pro( mat]ial1 is ! excessive cond5sation t takes place inside !m 9 places :]e ! atmosph]e is saturat$ ) moi/ure4 ,special att5tion mu/ be devot$ to ! t5ts ( ! #8boys' & c>ri]s1 :o1 if !y want less #8head-room' & less protection f ! sun ?an _! ma/]s1 require an equal am\nt ( protection f ! cold & ra94 ,_! t5ts may be made )\t an out] fly1 ( ! same mat]ial z above describ$1 & x may be calculat$ t a t5t ( #aj by #f feet ) a height ( #d feet is suffici5t = six m54 ,a light rope %\ld be sewn firmly along ! outside ( ! ridge1 t]m9at+ at ei!r end 9 a free loop1 :i* c be atta*$ to a tree or to a po/ driv5 into ! gr\nd4 ,! ro( may be made slop+ to rea* ! gr\nd2 m room1 ) a little extra weight & co/1 is provid$ by br++ ! ro( to )9 #a foot ( ! gr\nd & sew+ to ! edge ( x a hang+ wall or val5ce #a foot wide4 ,to accommodate a l>ge numb] ( m51 a good plan is t practis$ by ! ,dut* army 9 ! ,ea/ ,indies4 ,two upright poles are driv5 into ! gr\nd1 & a horizontal pole ti$ f "o to ! o!r at a height ( ab\t #g feet4 ,_m poles #ab to #ae feet long are !n laid ab\t #a foot ap>t1 ) "o end on ! gr\nd & ! o!r re/+ on ! horizontal1 to :i* !y may be ti$ by rattan or cord2 ! angle at :i* ^! poles are laid %\ld be z l[ z is consi/5t ) ! wat]pro(ness ( ! ro(+ mat]ial1 & !y may be /r5g!n$ by ty+ horizontal poles across !m at int]vals ( #b to #c feet4 ,on ! /ructure ?us made1 :i* resembles ! framework ( half ! ro( ( a h\se1 is laid a light ,willesd5 canvas #aj feet wide1 & ( a l5g? calculat$ accord+ to ! weight ( ! mat]ial & ! av]age loads c>ri$1 & to ! numb] ( m5 to be accommodat$4 ,x is obvi\s t su* a %elt]1 :i* gives pl5ty ( room & has _m advantages 9 a hot climate1 c only be made 9 di/ricts :]e timb] is pl5tiful1 & is n suit$ to cold wea!r1 nor to places :]e /rong w9ds are frequ5t4 ,x is advisable to provide ea* man ) a wat]pro( gr\nd %eet measur+ #gb by #cj in*es2 an ev5 bett] plan1 :i* w cause mu* gratification & good-w1 is to give to ea* man a wat]pro( canvas sack ( ! same dim5sions1 :i* he c use z a gr\nd %eet or z a sleep+-bag1 & at all times z a #8hold-all' = 8 clo!s & p]sonal belong+s4 ,,managem5t ,sid5ote3 ,loads & ,pack+4 ,! conditions ( transport v>y s mu* 9 diff]5t places--9 "o place m5 c>ry loads on _! heads1 & 9 ano!r on _! backs3 "h !y c>ry a #fj-lb4 load1 !re only #dj lb41 & s on--t x is impossible to specify 9 detail "h ! size & %ape ( ! loads1 & only a few g5]al pr9ciples c be sugge/$4 ,aft] f9d+ out ! local conditions1 x is important1 s f> z x is possible1 to pack provisions 9 loads z !y w be requir$1 s t x w n be necess>y to op5 "o box = salt1 ano!r = meat1 ano!r = jam1 & s on4 ,by a c>eful calculation x w be possible to pack ! boxes ) all 7or mo/ (7 ! food requir$ = a c]ta9 numb] ( days4 ,! #8,vane/a' case ( ?ree-ply wood 7made by ! ,vane/a ,company7 is by f> ! lighte/ & /ronge/ box = pack+ provisions & o!r ge>4 ,! boxes %\ld be made ( ! size suit$ to ! local conditions ( port]age1 & ea* "o %\ld be fully address$ on ! lid1 & a numb] atta*$ ) ref]5ce to a li/ ( its cont5ts2 x is advisable also to put ! numb]s on ! ends ( ! boxes1 s t :5 !y are all pil$ up on bo>d %ip or at ! base camp or else:]e1 a s\ght-= box may be f\nd ) ! m9imum ( tr\ble4 ,:5 _! cont5ts h be5 us$1 ^! boxes %\ld n be ?r[n away1 b %\ld be kept = ! use ( natural hi/ory specim5s or o!r curi\s objects f\nd dur+ ! c\rse ( ! exp$ition4 ,all loads %\ld be z ne>ly z possible ( ! same weight1 b "s w necess>ily be heavi] ?an o!rs1 & a few days' exp]i5ce ( ! m5 w suffice = _! prop] di/ribution4 ,mu* "t w be sav$ at ! beg9n+ ( ! day if ! same man always c>ries ! same load4 ,d\ble loads are to be avoid$ at all co/4 ,p]sonal loads1 i4e4 b$d+1 t5ts1 kit*5 app>atus1 & o!r ?+s t may be want$ on ! m>* or z soon z camp is rea*$1 %\ld be giv5 to /rong m5 :o are n likely to dawdle beh9d ! c>avan4 ,if x c be arrang$1 x is wise to h "o or two sp>e or lightly load$ m5 to take up ! burd5s ( any :o fall out by sickness or any o!r accid5t4 ,sid5ote3 ,trade ,goods1 ,natives1 etc4 ,9 ,africa1 :]e ! manufactur$ products ( civilization h p5etrat$ ev5 to ! remote/ di/ricts1 ! "q ( trade goods is a con/ant worry4 ,e inquiry1 !re=e1 mu/ be made be=eh& z to ! k9d ( goods requir$ 9 ! di/rict to be visit$ & 9 ! regions to be pass$ ?r\gh on ! way4 ,b fa%ions are con/antly *ang+2 on "o side ( a riv] y c get no?+ )\t brass wire1 & on ! o!r glass beads are ! only curr5cy3 if ! p ask = small :ite beads no?+ w induce !m to take y\r l>ge r$ ones2 s x is necess>y 9 ^? places to g provid$ ) _m diff]5t k9ds ( goods to suit ! local ta/es4 ,salt is 9 "s places ( ! greate/ value = b>t]1 & 9 places :]e ! p und]/& _! use1 fi%-hooks are greatly appreciat$4 ,9 unexplor$ regions1 su* z p>ts ( ,new ,gu9ea1 :]e ! natives h receiv$ no?+ f ! outside _w1 ! "q is simpl]1 & x is only necess>y to take ^? ?+s :i* ! p are c]ta9 to appreciate1 su* z glass beads1 r$ clo? 7turkey twill7 & /raight knives4 ,ev5 ! mo/ uncultur$ ( 8savages0 are exp]t b>t]]s1 & x is advisable to e/abli% a def9ite scale ( paym5t--su* z1 = example1 "o bead = "o sweet potato1 a piece ( clo? = a spe> or club1 & s on4 ,!y are quick to appreciate ju/ice & hone/y1 & attempts on ! "p ( ! c>ri]s ( ! exp$ition to defraud !m mu/ be *eck$4 ,on fir/ com+ into contact ) a new tribe x is necess>y1 )\t mak+ a display ( =ce1 to be on ! wat* aga9/ a trea*]\s attack4 ,pres5ts %\ld be giv5 to ! head-m5 & 7if !y are se57 to ! old wom54 ,x is well to le>n & practise ! native =m ( greet+1 & to submit to any c]emony ( blood-bro!rhood or ! l4 ,if x is possible to le>n ! names ( individuals & to s address !m1 x w always be appreciat$ z a complim5t4 ,undue famili>ity betwe5 ! c>ri]s ( ! exp$ition & ! native wom5 w inevitably lead to tr\ble1 & %\ld be sev]ely puni%$4 ,x is unwise to po9t at native p1 & 79 "s cases7 to laugh at !m4 ,unless !y are travell+ ) ! exp$ition1 natives %\ld nev] be all[$ to rema9 9 ! camp aft] nightfall4 ,m$ical treatm5t is "o ( ! sure/ ways to w9 ! affection & respect ( ! #8savage1' & ca/or oil or b&ages w (t5 make a way easi] :]e words or rifles w\ld be ( no avail4 ,sid5ote3 ,c>ri]s1 etc4 ,! managem5t ( ! c>ri]s !mselves is a matt] :i* c be le>nt by exp]i5ce alone4 ,g5]ally speak+1 x may be said t a j & /rict imp>tiality to all m5 is a f\ndation ( _! good s]vices2 m5 ( all col\rs are quick to notice & to take advantage ( ! smalle/ sign ( weakness or ( fav\ritism on ! "p ( _! ma/]4 ,cases ( insubord9ation or o!r faults mu/ be puni%$ 9 "s way2 b1 un=tunately1 ! use ( ! /ick1 :i* alone among c]ta9 races appeals to ! del9qu5t 7& is inde$ expect$ by him71 is =bidd5 by ! con/itut$ au?ority1 & an infr+em5t ( ! rule leads to tr\ble aft] return+ to civilization3 ! appeal to ! pocket by cutt+ (f a "p ( ! man's wages is ! mo/ effectual puni%m5t t rema9s4 ,"o ( ! mo/ annoy+ tr\bles t ! lead] ( an exp$ition has to cont5d ) is mal+]+4 ,?is does n (t5 pres5t mu* difficulty to anyone ) a k ( m$ic9e1 & o!rs may (t5 detect x by means ( ! cl9ical !rmomet]2 ! mo/ appropriate puni%m5t = x is ! adm9i/ration ( a p[]ful purgative4 ,f9ally1 x may be said t v little tr\ble w be exp]i5c$ if ! m5 h h>d "w1 adequate food1 tobacco1 & days ( re/ at /at$ int]vals4 ,sid5ote3 ,camps1 & ,?+s 9 ,g5]al4 ,:5 a camp is made on ! banks ( a riv]1 ! t5ts ( ! ,europeans %\ld be pit*$ up/ream ( ^? ( ! m54 ,a c>eful exam9ation ( ! high-wat] m>k %\ld be made be=e ! t5ts are pit*$4 ,! cook-h\se %\ld be made )9 a v %ort di/ance ( ! ,europeans' t5ts1 z x ra9s m (t5 ?an n at ! "t ( ! ev5+ meal4 ,a good #8boy' is "o :o has a fire go+ to make tea :ile ! camp is be+ pit*$4 ,at a base camp latr9es %\ld be con/ruct$1 & at a tempor>y camp ! m5 %\ld be in/ruct$ to g to a c]ta9 def9ite di/ance4 ,tr5*es to c>ry (f wat] %\ld be made r\nd ! t5ts1 ev5 if !re seems to be no probability ( ra94 ,9 *oos+ a site = a camp1 avoid z f> z possible ! proximity ( a native village2 & if /rong w9ds are frequ5t1 avoid ! neighb\rhood ( l>ge & decay+ trees4 ,! lead] ( an exp$ition %\ld (t5 p]sonally sup]vise ! di/ribution ( rations to ! m52 &1 except 9 ! case ( v l>ge exp$itions1 he %\ld always sup]vise ! apportionm5t ( loads at ! beg9n+ ( a j\rney4 ,flies are (t5 an intol]able nuisance 9 a camp2 !y may be driv5 out ( ! t5t at dusk by putt+ a lamp outside & !n %ak+ ! ro( ( ! t5t1 s t !y are unable to settle3 aft] a few m9utes !y w h settl$ else:]e & ! lamp may be br\ght inside4 ,! foll[+ is a li/ ( articles :i* might be ov]look$ 9 prep>+ ! equipm5t = an exp$ition3 ,a spr+ balance = weigh+ loads2 a /eel measur+-tape2 a cold *isel2 wire = m5d+2 assort$ nails & screws2 a h\sewife ) ne$les & cottons1 etc42 /5cil & ink = m>k+ boxes2 a small electric tor*2 _m bootlaces2 sp>e wat*-glasses2 a fl9t & /eel2 pocket-books 9 :i* notes c be writt5 9 duplicate4 ,f9ally1 x may be appropriate to quote ! advice giv5 by a di/+ui%$ travell]1 ! late ,mrs4 ,bi%op3 8,nev] take any?+ y c possibly d )\t40 ,to ?is we might add ano!r c\nsel3 ,take ev]y?+ y are likely to require1 & leave ?+s beh9d :5 !y c no long] be c>ri$4 ,,footnotes3 #be ,see also 8,equipm5t10 p4 #hb4 ,,*apt] ,,xii ,,m\nta9e]+ ,,9 ,,! ,,arctic 7,,spitsb]g57 ,,by ,,sir ,w4 ,,m>t9 ,,conway ,s9ce ! exp$ition :i* ,i took to ,spitsb]g5 9 ! ye>s #ahif & #ahig1 ,i h n he>d ( any p>ties ( m\nta9e]s go+ to t c\ntry4 ,m\nta9s 7 incid5tally climb$ by ! ,russian-,sw$i% surveyors1 :o w5t up !re 9 sev]al successive ye>s to measure an arc ( ! ,m]idian4 ,inde$1 !y discov]$ & climb$ ! highe/ po9t 9 ! ma9 isl&1 :i* ,g>wood & ,i _h beheld af> (f 9 #ahig b 7 unable to rea*4 ,m\nta9e]+1 h[ev]1 0 m]ely an incid5t 9 ! "w ( ^? p>ties4 ,x has always seem$ to me /range t ,engli% climb]s h nev] foll[$ our example 9 ! ,f> ,nor?1 & x is !re=e ) little hope ( be+ v s]viceable t ,i n[ acc$e to ! reque/ ( ! editor ( ?is "w to contribute a *apt] on 8,arctic ,m\nta9e]+10 & h[ to set to "w ab\t x4 ,tru? to tell1 my own memory ( details has become feeble2 b su* z x is1 x %all be plac$ at ! read]'s s]vice4 ,sid5ote3 ,modes ( ,access4 ,! fir/ "q1 ( c\rse1 is h[ to get to ,spitsb]g51 & hav+ got !re1 h[ to get away f x2 = ?\gh t\ri/ /eam]s n infrequ5tly visit ! we/]n coa/ ( ! ma9 isl&1 !y /op s %ort a "t z to be useless = ev5 ! briefe/ m\nta9e]+ exp$itions4 ,! climb] :o wi%es to h ! be/ ( ! season %\ld arrive n e>li] ?an ! end ( ,june1 & />t away at late/ t[>ds ! end ( ,augu/1 :5 ! sun has already begun to set4 ,n[adays a good _m indu/rial ent]prises1 su* z m9es &1 ,i believe1 qu>ries1 are be+ prosecut$ 9 ,spitsb]g51 s t !re mu/ really be pl5ty ( opportunities ( be+ c>ri$ ?i!r f ,troms & br\ght back aga92 b x is impossible to pr$ict be=eh& :at !y w be4 ,probably ! easie/ way w\ld be to make arrangem5ts ) ! own] ( "o ( ! ,troms or ,hamm]fe/ fi%+ sloops to convey ! p>ty up to its select$ base & call = x aga9 on a day fix$ 9 advance4 ,! price t %\ld be *>g$ = su* accommodation ought to be mod]ate2 b my exp]i5ce ( ! ,nor? ,norwegians 0 t !y are liable to op5 _! m\?s pretty wide :5 !y ?9k !y h a travell] 9 _! p[]4 ,9 any case1 su* arrangem5ts are be/ made by an ag5t long 9 advance & ) all legal exactitude4 ,sid5ote3 ,equipm5t & ,outfit4 ,! equipm5t necess>y = ,spitsb]g5 m\nta9e]+ ne$ n be v elaborate4 ,! temp]atures to be fac$ w n exce$ ^? ( an ord9>y ,engli% w9t]1 & clo!s w !re=e n require to be ( ! ,arctic "* we associate ) ,pol> exp$itions4 ,b a man does ne$ to be really w>mly clad ) pl5ty ( ?ick und]clo?+ & ?or\ghly /rong g>m5ts4 ,= :5 ! w9d bl[s & ! sn[ drives on ! high] levels x is cold en\gh ev5 at ,midsumm]1 ?\gh on r>e occasions 9 /ill air ! w>m? ( ! sun may be felt to a q surpris+ degree4 ,ne> ! sea-level & on ! mora9es & rocks ! /ronge/ m\nta9e]+ boots are none too /rong4 ,i d\bt :e!r ! ski-+ boots commonly worn = w9t] sport w\ld adapt !mselves = use 9 su* places4 ,once ! upp] levels ( ! glaci]s h be5 ga9$1 :i* g5]ally involves two or ?ree days' "w ) sl$ges f sea-level1 travell+ becomes easi] & m agreeable1 & is done almo/ entirely on ski4 ,sl$ges1 ski1 w>m sleep+-bags1 goat-hair /ock+s & w>m clo?+ g5]ally c be b\ght v well at ,b]g5 or ,trondhjem on ! way out2 b x w\ld be well1 z f> z ! sl$ges are conc]n$1 to write be=eh& & make sure t !y w\ld be available4 ,briti% consuls at ^? places or ! ,norwegian ,consul-,g5]al 9 ,london w\ld d\btless in=m inquir]s z to ! names ( ! be/ %ops to deal )4 ,re9de] sleep+-bags are delightfully com=table & w>m1 b !y are di/9ctly heavy & bulky4 ,good eid]d[n sleep+-bags ) a rug or two w\ld1 ,i ?9k1 be q w>m en\gh till ! #bj? ( ,augu/ at any rate4 ,! be/ t5ts to take are relatively l>ge t5ts ( ! #8,mumm]y' type1 made ( /rong ,willesd5 canvas ) rubb] %eet+ floor sewn 94 ,x is absolutely ess5tial t ! floor %\ld be sewn 91 o!rwise ! t5t c\ld be easily bl[n away 9 a gale4 ,i d n rememb] ! exact arrangem5ts ( ! t5ts ( ?is k9d made = me by ,edg+ton's4 ,! floor space 0 probably ab\t #f feet or #f feet #f in*es by #d feet4 ,! height may be judg$ by ! fact t = poles we us$ ice-axes1 ) extra pieces ab\t #ah in*es long to fit ov] ! po9ts ) a socket to l5g!n !m4 ,?ree or ev5 f\r p might be cr[d$ into su* a t5t1 b no "o w\ld wi% to %>e su* a t5t ) m ?an "o companion on a pleasure j\rney ( a few weeks' duration4 ,! rema9d] ( ! kit w\ld consi/ ( cook+ app>atus & supplies1 to wit1 a primus /ove1 "s alum9ium plates & pans1 alum9ium spoons & =ks2 & = provisions ! usual t9n$ goods1 conc5trat$ s\ps & pots ( jam1 & a suffici5t quantity ( highly nutriti\s biscuits to take ! place ( bread4 ,f> ! be/ biscuits = ?is purpose we f\nd 7 nam$ #8,triticum9a1' :i* conta9$ plasmon2 b ! biscuits :i* h currants s&wi*$ into !m =m a v welcome *ange4 ,a lib]al supply ( br[n sug> 9 t9s %\ld on no acc\nt be =gott51 ?\gh jam is almo/ z good4 ,if ! p>ty contemplate sp5d+ _! "t 9 "o di/rict ( ! isl&1 !y w probably make = !mselves a heavy & com=table base camp1 :i* may be z well /or$ z !y please1 z x w1 ( c\rse1 be situat$ close to ! %ore ( "s bay or h>b\r1 & ev]y?+ belong+ to x w be l&$ direct f ! boat1 s t ! "q ( port]age w n arise4 ,?is base camp ought to be equipp$ ) a r[+ boat ( ! type call$ a :ale boat1 su* z c be readily hir$ f any ,nor? ,norwegian port4 ,x w\ld be well to h "o or two able-bodi$ ,norwegian sailors to man ! boat & help drag ! sl$ges1 & no difficulty w\ld be exp]i5c$ 9 f9d+ 9 or ab\t ! ,l(ot5 ,isl&s suitable m51 skilful also 9 go+ on ski4 ,our exp]i5ce 0 t "y unm>ri$ m5 7 to be pref]r$4 ,! o!rs got home-sick4 ,sid5ote3 ,plans ( ,campaign4 ,a m\nta9e]+ exp$ition to ,spitsb]g5 might lay out its plans on _m diff]5t l9es1 b1 broadly speak+1 !re are two ma9 *oices betwe5 :i* to select4 ,9 "o1 ! m\nta9s ( ! coa/ region accessible directly 9 "o day1 or at mo/ 9 two days1 f ! sea w\ld be ! pr9cipal object ( att5tion4 ,9 ! o!r1 ! high int]ior regions ( inl& ice remote f ! %ore1 & ! m\nta9s ris+ out ( !m1 w\ld be ! goal4 ,!re is mu* to be said = ei!r plan4 ,! =m] w\ld be ! less labori\s & ! m com=table2 ! latt] h>d] "w1 m adv5tur\s1 & op5+ up a /rang] & m wond]ful _w4 ,!re is also a ?ird region1 t ( ! unglaciat$1 boggy valleys ar\nd ,adv5t ,bay & ,bell ,s\nd2 b ?is1 aft] a season's exp]i5ce1 ,i _c hone/ly recomm5d z pleasant travell+ c\ntry4 ,sid5ote3 ,f ! ,coa/4 ,let u !n take ! o!r two alt]natives "o by "o4 ,climb]s :o w\ld hug ! coa/ may g up ) a fairly l>ge p>ty prep>$ to subdivide on arrival1 & pit* base camps 9 diff]5t bays if s !y please4 ,b a l>ge p>ty is1 ( c\rse1 n ess5tial1 & a c\ple ( good fri5ds1 ) "o or two ,norwegian sailors at _! disposal1 w\ld h a v good "t on %ore or afloat 9 _! :ale boat4 ,hav+ *os5 a well-protect$ l&+-place ) a %elv+ bea* up :i* to haul _! boat1 & hav+ pit*$ _! t5ts well out ( rea* ( ! highe/ tides & /orms1 !y c\ld ei!r climb ! m\nta9s close at h&1 or !y c\ld r[ (f or sail away 9 _! boat to any o!rs accessible f _! fjord1 tak+ ) !m a light camp & provisions only = two or ?ree days4 ,or1 aga91 !y c make %ort trips ( "o or two days' duration m]ely into ! int]ior1 n cumb]+ !mselves ) a sl$ge1 b c>ry+ on _! backs a v light camp+ equipm5t ( a k9d br\ght to mu* p]fection by ! ,amateur ,camp+ ,club4 ,on ?is sy/em ! same base camp ne$ n be adh]$ to = ! :ole season1 b 9 suitable wea!r x c\ld be mov$1 by help ( ! :ale boat1 ev5 f "o ( ! we/]n fiords to ano!r4 ,! great "q :i* naturally arises is :at sites by ! sea%ore are be/ suit$ = climb+ c5tres4 ,broadly speak+1 ! nor? half & ! s\? toe ( ! ma9 isl& alone come into consid]ation1 = ! ea/ isl&s are n practically accessible1 nor w\ld x (t5 be wise to make a sea-base at all f> to ! ea/w>d on ! nor? coa/4 ,practically1 !re=e1 we may take ! coa/-l9e r\nd f ,wijde ,bay we/w>d & !n s\?w>d d[n ! coa/ to ,k+'s ,bay1 !n all along ei!r coa/ to ,=el& ,s\nd to ! m\? ( ,ice ,s\nd1 :il/ at ! s\? end ( ! isl& only ,horn ,s\nd ne$ be consid]$4 ,com+ n[ to detail1 9 ! high summ] ( a v op5 season1 :5 ! ice-pack has )drawn to some:]e 9 ! neighb\rhood ( #hj #cj81 x might be safe to make a base camp = a week or two 9 ,wijde ,bay itself1 pref]ably on its ea/]n %ore1 f :i* ! high peaks ( #gjjj feet & !reab\ts1 :i* range d[n ! we/ side ( ,new ,friesl&1 c be climb$ 9 a two-day exp$ition4 ,^! peaks are v indiff]5tly explor$2 only ! highe/ ( !m has ev] be5 climb$2 !y /& 9 ! mid/ ( a region ( extraord9>y int]e/1 & mu/ comm& wond]ful views to ! ea/w>d ov] ! little-kn[n nor?-ea/ l& & away (f to ! romantic ,wy*es ,isl&s4 ,probably !re is no di/rict 9 ! :ole ,ar*ipelago :i* w\ld s well rew>d ! season's "w2 :il/ if ! ice-pack 7 to come d[n & seal ! m\? ( ,wijde ,bay1 retreat is always op5 ov]l& to ,cape ,?ords5 9 ,ice ,s\nd by "o or o!r ( two obvi\s r\tes4 ,a less h]oic base c\ld be f\nd at a doz5 po9ts ne> ! nor?-ea/ angle ( ! isl&1 & ?is is probably ! be/ & mo/ practical region to *oose2 = "h x w\ld be possible to %ift ! base camp e few days1 :il/ !re are any numb] ( m\nta9s ris+ f ! coa/ built ( ! h>d prim>y rocks & app>5tly (f]+ delectable scrambles4 ,! ma9 bay1 call$ ,mauritius ,bay by ! ,dut* 9 ! old days1 & 9 p>ticul> ! s\?-ea/ corn]1 w\ld probably be ! be/ place to beg94 ,! labyr9? ( glaci]s t empty into ,r$cliff ,s\nd mu/ be well wor? a visit1 & ! same is true ( ! peaks & glaci]s ( ,magdal5a ,bay4 ,! fact t ! :ole ( ?is region has be5 admirably mapp$ by ! ,pr9ce ( ,monaco is a fur!r advantage = ! prospective climb]4 ,betwe5 ,magdal5a ,bay & ,close ,cove 7n[ wrongly call$ ,cross ,bay7 !re is no place = a base camp2 b ,close ,cove1 ,k+'s ,bay1 ,cove ,com=tless & ! nor? "p ( ,pr9ce ,*>les's ,=el& =m toge!r an enclos$ area conta9+ innum]able excell5t coa/-l9e bases4 ,probably "o ( ! n>r[ bays at ! head ( ,close ,cove w\ld provide an attractive situation1 besides giv+ access to an intimately glaciat$ & b]idg$ int]ior4 ,b ! s\?-ea/ extremity ( ,k+'s ,bay1 z we f\nd1 is a delightful situation1 & f x ! ,?ree ,cr[ns & c\ntless o!r peaks c be rea*$4 ,pr9ce ,*>les's ,=el& has be5 excell5tly mapp$ by ,dr4 ,bruce1 & seems to h "s good climb+ peaks1 mo/ ( :i*1 & all ( ^? along ! opposite side ( ,=el& ,s\nd1 await _! fir/ exp]i5ce ( a human foot4 ,x mu/ be admitt$ t ! region ne>e/ ! we/ coa/ suff]s f ! wor/ wea!r1 = x cont9ually happ5s t ! cl\ds lie l[1 :il/ above ! level ( #ajjj or #abjj feet !re is brilliant sun%9e = days & p]haps weeks toge!r1 & ( c\rse no night at all4 ,f ,horn ,s\nd 9 ! s\? "s spl5did peaks are accessible1 only "o ( :i* has ev] be5 climb$4 ,?is is p]haps ! be/ place = a week or two at ! close ( ! season1 ?\gh x might be r difficult to get !re 9 an op5 boat f ! nor!rn p>ts4 ,! hospitality ( "s pass+ /eam]1 h[ev]1 might be available = su* transf]4 ,sid5ote3 ,into ! ,int]ior4 ,f> m int]e/+ & delightful1 h[ev]1 ?an m]ely climb+ peaks f a sea-base is a bold v5ture into ! f> int]ior4 ,inde$1 a climb] /&+ on ! summit ( any peak & look+ inl& ov] ! va/ glaci]s & at ! c\ntless ranges & beautiful m\nta9s spread abroad be=e him on a cle> day w1 ,i ?9k1 be irresi/ibly drawn into t :ite labyr9?4 ,( c\rse ! mo/ delightful exp]i5ce is a trav]se ( "s "p ( ! isl& f sea to sea4 ,?is requires a good deal ( organization1 because x is necess>y to h a boat to meet ! p>ty arriv+ f ! o!r side at "s po9t arrang$ 9 advance4 ,f ,magdal5a ,bay to ,cross ,bay ! trav]se has be5 made1 & leads ?r\gh spl5did sc5]y4 ,m int]e/+1 because new1 w\ld be ! trav]se f ,wood ,bay to ,k+'s ,bay1 or f ,k+'s ,bay along ! ,k+'s ,highway & d[n to ,nor? ,fjord2 or aga91 f ! head ( ,sass5 ,bay ov] to ! ea/ coa/ & back4 ,x w\ld sc>cely be possible to h a boat prep>$ to meet a p>ty on ! ea/ coa/1 s t ei!r f ,ice ,s\nd or ,bell ,s\nd j\rneys to ! ea/ coa/ mu/ be made to & fro by ! same r\te4 ,9 ! nature ( ?+s little g5]al advice c be giv5 = su* exp$itions2 ea* mu/ be organiz$ accord+ to its own special circum/ances4 ,x is obvi\s1 9 any case1 a l>ge m>g9 w\ld h to be provid$ = ! unexpect$4 ,a sl$ge may break d[n1 or delays may be caus$ 9 a ?\s& ways1 s t a consid]able res]ve /ock ( provisions mu/ be tak54 ,! fir/ day f ! coa/1 sometimes ! fir/ two days1 w be v labori\s4 ,a sl$ge & its load w h to be c>ri$ by repeat$ j\rneys ov] r\gh gr\nd & g5]ally ov] broad mora9es be=e ! camp c be pit*$ at ! edge ( ! cle> ice4 ,!n1 g5]ally speak+1 !re w be a crevass$ region to trav]se1 :]e progress mu/ be sl[2 b aft] two or ?ree days at ! outside easi] conditions w be met )4 ,soon1 h[ev]1 ! sn[-cov]$ belt ( ! glaci] w be rea*$1 & z at ?is "t ( ye> a slight b cont9u\s ?aw is proce$+1 x necess>ily foll[s t1 :]e !re are no crevasses to dra9 (f ! wat]1 !re w be a wild belt cov]$ ) wat]-logg$ sn[ & int]sect$ by wide & ru%+ /reams :i* x is (t5 v difficult to cross4 ,! wat]-logg$ sn[ is m]ely unpleasant & labori\s1 z ! ski & ! sl$ge w s9k into x1 & e holl[ ?us made is in/antly fill$ ) ice-cold wat]4 ,! only way to deal ) ! big /reams is to foll[ up alongside ( !m till !y divide into small] brooks :i* c be cross$ 9 detail4 ,yet high] up1 h[ev]1 ! ?aw is left beh9d & a spl5did h>d surface is f\nd1 ov] :i* ski-+ & sl$g+ are a pleasant pa/ime1 & long] di/ances c be cov]$ 9 a day's m>*4 ,out ( ?is high] region peaks1 ( no great absolute height inde$1 b ( f9e =m1 arise 9 all directions1 & f a suitably *os5 high camp x w be possible 9 a few days to make _m asc5ts1 ei!r ( summits 9 ! ranges bord]+ "o's own glaci] on ei!r h&1 or 9 o!r ranges beh9d !m :i* c be readily rea*$ ov] undulat+ passes4 ,sid5ote3 ,exceptional & ,beautiful ,ph5om5a4 ,a travell] :o has made "o su* exp$ition into ! int]ior ( ,spitsb]g5 w h become acqua9t$ ) glaci] ph5om5a su* z no ord9>y alp9e region c display4 ,! pools & ice cav]ns ( ,arctic glaci]s1 ! /range blue riv]-tunnels ?r\gh ! ice1 ! bur/ lakes scatt]+ huge ice-blocks af>1 ! curi\s %eaves ( cry/all9e ice-rods1 ! riv]s ( wat] /a9$ crimson by dis9tegrat+ dolomite rock & fl[+ ov] ! :ite ice-l ve9s ( jasp] 9 m>ble1 ! froz5 heaps ( ice1 9 %ape l volcanoes1 :i* rise :]e spr+s =ce !mselves out ( ! gr\nd--^! & _m o!r /range & beautiful sights await ! /ud5t ( glaci]s 9 ! ,arctic regions4 ,moreov]1 ! glaci]s !mselves h q a diff]5t look f alp9e glaci]s4 ,!y appe> to be f> m visc\s1 z 9 fact !y are1 s t if !y end on a piece ( flat gr\nd & d n rea* ! sea1 ! end spreads out into a great r\nd mass1 z a /ream ( honey might if x em]g$ f "s n>r[ gap on to a flat area4 ,b :]e a glaci] rea*es ! sea1 & especially a great glaci] p]haps sev5 miles 9 wid?1 x has to t]m9ate1 ( c\rse1 9 a spl5did cliff1 & ?is cliff is1 z x 71 made ( t[]+ sracs1 blue 9 ! holl[s & :ite on ! cr[n1 9 height p]haps #ajj feet above ! wat]-level1 & ^! sracs are cont9ually fall+ into ! sea & break+ up into little iceb]gs1 caus+ a great commotion 9 ! wat]s z !y plunge 9 _! fall & jo/le aga9/ "o ano!r till !y come to re/4 ,nor mu/ ,i =get to m5tion ano!r ( ! great glories ( ?is m\nta9 region1 to wit1 ! long sunset4 ,t[>ds ! middle ( ,augu/ ! sun1 9 ! h\rs correspond+ to midnight1 approa*es close to ! horizon1 & pres5tly actually dips b5ea? x4 ,x foll[s t a sunset col\r+1 pal] & m delicate b n less beautiful ?an t we "k 9 ! ,alps1 illum9es ! sky1 ! cl\ds1 ! m\nta9s & ! glaci]s at ?is "t1 & t n m]ely = a few m9utes b = f\r or five h\rs on end1 accord+ to ! atmosph]ic conditions4 ,i "k ( no?+ m wond]ful ?an to climb a m\nta9 :i* comm&s a wide view ov] ! flat1 fog-cov]$ ocean & ! cle>1 sn[-cov]$ int]ior :5 ! :ole ( ?is enorm\s expanse %9es p9k 9 ! lights & blue 9 ! %ad[s1 & ! effect la/s on = f\r or five h\rs sp5t amid su* surr\nd+s4 ,sid5ote3 ,summ>y1 ,co/1 etc4 ,b x is n my bus9ess to describe ! beauties ( ,arctic sc5]y 9 ?is place1 b only to indicate z be/ ,i may h[ ! int5d+ m\nta9 travell] 9 ^? regions may set to "w4 ,conditions1 ( c\rse1 ( accessibility & ! l *ange f ye> to ye>1 especially n[adays :5 ,spitsb]g5 has become ! sc5e ( indu/rial und]tak+s2 x w be necess>y = any int5d+ travell] to make inquiries well ahead z to ! circum/ances att5d+ 8 own case4 ,i feel conv9c$1 h[ev]1 t an ent]pris+ p>ty ( ?ree or f\r climb]s c\ld sp5d a season 9 ,spitsb]g5 & h an excell5t "t at n m ?an twice ! co/ ( a correspond+ season 9 ! ,alps1 & possibly = a good deal less4 ,+5uity1 adaptability & ent]prise w be ess5tial4 ,aft] all1 = :at k9d ( travel t is wor? :ile are !y n8 ,note4--,! =ego+ 0 writt5 be=e ! w>4 ,rec5t comm]cial developm5ts h made ,spitsb]g5 mu* m easy ( access4 ,,*apt] ,,xiii ,,! ,,caucasus ,,by ,,h>old ,,raeburn ,! ,caucasus ( ! m\nta9e] is t m or less cont9u\s *a9 ( great glaciat$ peaks :i* ext5ds = ne>ly #fjj miles betwe5 ! ,caspian & ,black ,seas4 ,sid5ote3 ,g5]al ,topography & ,/ructure4 ,geographically1 ! wat]-p>t+ ( ! ridge =ms ! b\nd>y betwe5 ,europe & ,asia4 ,politically speak+ ! m\nta9s run1 ) a g5]al s\?-ea/ to nor?-we/ direction1 ?r\gh almo/ ! c5tre ( ! ,russian prov9ce ( ! ,caucasus1 divid+ x into ! two di/ricts ( ,cis-,caucasia1 ) ! *ief city ( ,vladikavkaz1 & ,trans-,caucasia1 ) ,tiflis z ! c5tre ( gov]nm5t4 ,situat$ 9 ab\t ! same latitude z ! ,pyr5ees1 ) a m cont95tal climate1 ! ranges ( temp]ature are mu* great] ?an 9 ! ,alps4 ,9 su* an ext5sive tract ( elevat$ c\ntry great v>iation ( conditions mu/ naturally occur4 ,speak+ g5]ally1 & ) m special ref]5ce to ! c5tral gr\p ( summits1 ! glaciation is some:at less ?an 9 ! ,alps 9 proportion to ! elevation1 ab\t #bjjj feet great] ?an t ( ! c5tral ,p5n9es4 ,! av]age level to :i* ! glaci]s desc5d is r high]4 ,z ! av]age slope ( ! m\nta9s is m abrupt1 ! glaci]s are /eep]4 ,9 consequ5ce1 ! ,caucasian glaci]s are z a rule m difficult & brok51 & ! ice-falls m cont9u\s4 ,! prevail+ w9d is w>m & moi/ure-lad51 bl[+ f ! s\?-we/1 (f ! almo/ sub-tropical %ores ( ! ,black ,sea2 cond5s$ by ! cold peaks1 ! moi/ure is !reon deposit$ 9 ! =m ( sn[4 ,?us1 9 spite ( its nor!rn aspect1 ! glaciation ( ! ,european slope is little great] ?an t ( ! s\!rn4 ,illu/ration3 ,,map ,,( ,,"p ,,( ,,cis ,,& ,,trans ,,caucasia ,%[+ approa*es to ! ,m\nta9s ,! height at :i* trees cease is v mu* ! same on bo? sides 7#gjjj-hjjj feet74 ,a feature ( ! c\ntry is ! great =e/s :i* cov] ! upp] bas9s ( _m valleys1 p>ticul>ly on ! s\? side4 ,9 _m ( ! s\!rn valleys ^! =e/s are compos$ ( decidu\s trees ( v>i\s species1 su* z bir*1 bee*1 oak1 maple & *e/nut1 giv+ a v>iety & *>m :i* ! m sombre p9e =e/s ( ! nor? d n provide4 ,"s ( ! nor!rn valleys are de/itute ( timb]1 & ! fuel difficulty is "o :i* confronts ! climb+ explor]4 ,! :ole m\nta9 sy/em may = pres5t purposes be divid$ into ?ree pr9cipal gr\ps4 #a4 ,all ! peaks s\? & ea/ ( ! l9e ( ! ,d>iel1 m correctly ! ,kre/ovaya ,gora1 ,pass2 9 :i* ?\gh _m peaks exi/ z high z ! ,ob]l& ,m\nta9s1 yet ! glaciation is n cont9u\s = long di/ances4 #b4 ,! great c5tral gr\p4 ,?is is ! mo/ important & be/ kn[n4 ,x ext5ds f ,kasbek1 imm$iately we/ ( ! above pass1 to ! ,klukhor ,pass1 we/ ( ,elbrus1 a di/ance ( ab\t #acj miles4 ,9 ! :ole ( ?is di/ance !re is only "o driv+ road1 t ( ! ,mamison ,pass 7#ibhj feet71 ! highe/ road 9 ,europe4 ,all o!r r\tes across ! range1 except "o or two grass passes1 mu/ be made ov] glaci] passes1 ! l[e/ ab\t #aj1ejj feet above sea-level4 #c4 ,we/ & nor? ( ! ,klukhor ,pass lies a tangl$ gr\p ( some:at l[] glaciat$ summits1 "s ( :i* are /ill unasc5d$4 ,sid5ote3 ,records & ,lit]ature4 ,if we pass ov] ! anci5t traditions & tales ( ! ,arabians1 ,greeks & ,jews1 m\nta9e]+ 9 ! ,caucasus is ( v mod]n gr[?4 ,! ,arabian ,kaf1 ! ,jewi% ,ar>at & ! great m\nta9 celebrat$ by s*ylus z ! prison ( ,prome!us1 are all situat$ 9 or ne> ! ,caucasus range2 :e!r x be true or n t ! ,t[] ( ,babel 0 built n f> f ! bord]s1 ?is m\nta9 l& rema9s a ,t[] ( ,babel to ?is day4 ,9 ! city ( ,baku !re are ev5 n[ said to be "o hundr$ diff]5t languages & dialects spok54 ,! ,caucasus ,m\nta9s !mselves give homes to z _m tribes & dialects z !re are riv]s4 ,^! tribes 7 almo/ always m or less at enmity among/ !mselves4 ,?is lack ( nationality r5d]$ ! task ( absorption by ,russia an easy "o4 ,x %\ld n be =gott5 t a good "p ( ! ,caucasus prop] 0 n conqu]$ by ,russia4 ,! nom9al sov]eignty possess$ by ! k+s ( ,georgia ov] _m ( ! m\nta9 tribes only began to be made real :5 ! la/ k+ plac$ himself "u ,russian protection4 ,?is great div]sity ( peoples1 languages1 religions & cu/oms r5d]s travel 9 ! ,caucasus1 if m int]e/+1 mu* m difficult4 ,mo/ ( ! p "k no?+ ( ,russian1 & x is !re=e necess>y = a climb+ p>ty to h an int]pret] ) !m :o has k ( z _m ( ! diff]5t languages z possible4 ,ap>t f ! fabul\s1 ! e>lie/ ef=t ( m\nta9e]+ 9 ! ,caucasus appe>s to h be5 an attempt to asc5d ,elbrus by a p>ty ( f\r savants1 atta*$ to ! politico-geographical exp$ition ( ,g5]al ,emanuel1 9 #ahbi4 ,! fir/ writ] to draw att5tion to ! ,caucasus z a field = m\nta9 exploration 0 ! ,rev4 ,h4 ,b4 ,george1 9 a pap] read be=e ! ,alp9e ,club on #b ,may #ahfe4 ,! pione] exp$ition 0 t ( ,messrs4 ,fre%field1 ,moore & ,tuck]1 ) ,franois ,dev\ass\d1 9 #ahfh4 ,mr4 ,grove's p>ty foll[$1 9 #ahgd1 & 8 book1 ,! ,fro/y ,caucasus1 is n[ a valuable alp9e classic4 ,dur+ ! '#hj's ,briti% m\nta9e]s1 ) ,swiss guides1 conqu]$ ! majority ( ! highe/ peaks4 ,mr4 ,cock9 0 ! mo/ successful3 ?ree ( ! greate/ peaks fell to him & 8 guides 9 "o season4 ,messrs4 ,d5t1 ,woolley & ,hold] 7 also v successful4 ,my ,climbs 9 ! ,alps & ,caucasus1 by ,mr4 ,a4 ,f4 ,mumm]y1 describes 8 exp$ition 9 #ahhh1 :5 ! great peak ( ,dykh-,tau 0 asc5d$4 ,9 ! '#ij's a numb] ( ,briti% guideless p>ties w5t out1 b f v>i\s causes _h little success4 ,s9ce !n1 9 spite ( ?ree spl5didly illu/rat$ volumes1 ,! ,exploration ( ! ,caucasus1 by ,fre%field & ,sella1 9 #ahif1 ,aus d5 ,ho*region5 des ,kaukasus1 by ,m]zba*]1 9 #aija1 & ,kaukasus ,reis5 und ,=s*ung51 by de ,d*y1 9 #aijd1 ,briti% int]e/ 9 ! di/rict has be5 slight4 ,messrs4 ,long/aff & ,rolle/on _h1 h[ev]1 a v successful guideless campaign 9 ,suanetia1 9 #aijc4 ,a ,russian au?or1 ,afanasief1 publi%$ 9 ,g]man1 9 #aiac1 a v useful little comp5dium ( ! asc5ts made up to date1 #ajj ,kaukasus ,gipfel4 ,z a pro( t ! ,caucasus z a new m\nta9e]+ c5tre is /ill v f> f be+ exhau/$1 ,briti% exp$itions 9 #aiac & #aiad succe$$ 9 effect+ ! asc5ts ( t5 new summits1 none ( :i* 0 bel[ #ac1ejj feet 9 height4 ,sid5ote3 ,r\tes ( ,access4 ,! easie/1 *eape/ & quicke/ way to ! c5tral gr\p f ,london is t to ! nor? side1 ov]l&4 ,! r\te is via ,b]l91 ,w>saw & ,ro/(f on ! ,don4 ,!nce ei!r by ! ,baku tra9 to ,beslan1 = ,vladikavkaz1 or by ! ,russian ,spas express to ,m9]alnia ,vod1 = ,piatigorsk4 ,an ev5 bett] />t+-po9t = ! m\nta9s is ,nalt%ik1 to :i* a bran* railway1 op5$ 9 ,july #aiab1 %\ld run 9 two h\rs f ! junction on ! ma9 ,ro/(f-,baku l9e ( ,kotli>efskaia4 ,! s\? side may be rea*$ by driv+ f ,vladikavkaz or f ,d>kop on ! ma9 l9e ov] ! ,mamison ,pass4 ,ano!r excell5t way ( rea*+ ! s\? side ( ! range f ! nor? side w\ld be by tak+ ! motor s]vice 7(fice 9 ! annex ( ! ,gr& ,hotel7 f ,vladikavkaz ov] ! ,d>iel--correctly ! ,kre/ovaya ,gora--,pass to ,tiflis1 & r\nd by ! ,tiflis-,batum railway4 ,! motor l9e passes close "u ! huge mass ( ,kasbek 7#af1edf feet71 & its glaci]s c be rea*$ 9 a few h\rs f ,vladikavkaz4 ,! old r\te to ! s\? side ( ! range foll[$ by mo/ ( ! e>li] ,engli% p>ties is t by ,vi5na & ,odessa1 !nce by /eam]1 9 f two to f\r days1 across ! ,black ,sea--call+ at ,seva/opol--to ,batum4 ,f ,batum a %ort bran*-l9e connects ) ,kutais4 ,f "h ! ,mamison road leads up to ,oni on ! ,upp] ,rion1 & c be utiliz$ = driv+ = "p or ! :ole ( ! di/ance1 accord+ to :i* valley or gr\p ( peaks x is desir$ to visit4 ,= ! mo/ we/]ly gr\p1 t ly+ we/ ( ,elbrus1 ! port ( ,sukhum ,kal on ! ,black ,sea w probably be f\nd mo/ conv5i5t4 ,= ! extreme ea/]n gr\ps ,tiflis w prove ! be/ />t+-po9t4 ,sid5ote3 ,modes ( ,travel4 ,! usual1 & ! be/ mode ( travel 9 ! m\nta9s is on foot4 ,all ! railhead t[ns m5tion$ are m ?an a day's m>* di/ant f ! hills4 ,kasbek alone is closely approa*$ by a motorable road4 ,at ! t[ns elect$ = approa*--,tiflis1 ,kutais1 ,vladikavkaz1 ,piatigorsk or ,nalt%ik--x is necess>y to engage vehicles or horses1 & a cook-int]pret]4 ,:e!r x is advisable to buy horses = ! :ole j\rney dep5ds ^u :e!r mu* travell+1 & 9 consequ5ce little climb+1 is to be done4 ,! pur*ase ( horses sets ! p>ty free f ! endless haggl+1 delay & annoyance :i* seem insep>able f hir+4 ,on ! o!r h&1 ! pur*ase necessitates engag+ at lea/ "o man = e two horses1 & ?is adds greatly to ! exp5se & to ! commiss>iat difficulties4 ,?\gh consid]ably improv$ ( late ye>s1 ! v>i\s roads up ,caucasian valleys1 :]e !y exi/ at all1 are n ( ! be/4 ,a ,russian road on ! /eppe is n a road 9 ! usual s5se ( ! ^w2 x is m]ely a "p ( ! gr\nd ov] :i* "o drives1 & is n made 9 any way except by ! :eels ( pass+ traffic4 ,! road ( ! ,mamison ,pass is a built road2 b x is exce$+ly r\gh 9 places1 & is frequ5tly int]rupt$ by l&slides1 tree-falls & avalan*es4 ,! mo/ com=table vehicle to obta9 is ! troika or phaeton1 a light1 l[ c>riage some?+ l ! alp9e *>4 ,a r\gh] & m usual c>riage is ! l9eika1 seat$ l a l[-set ,iri% jaunt+-c> on f\r :eels4 ,x is wond]fully ela/ic1 its light1 loose me?od ( con/ruction all[+ x to adapt itself to ! po?oles1 b\ld]s & tree-trunks ( ! r\gh] p>ts ( ! road4 ,mo/ ( ^! vehicles w be f\nd to suff] f ! g5]al debility consequ5t ^u extreme old age4 ,x is advisable to h ea* "o c>efully inspect$ be=e ! />t4 ,9 ! m out-(-!-way p>ts1 :]e su* luxuri\s modes ( travel _c be indulg$ 91 an arba c (t5 be obta9$4 ,?is is a light1 spr+less two-:eel$ c>t4 ,x is (t5 drawn by a pair ( small b /rong ox51 & ?\gh ! pace is v sl[1 a l>ge quantity ( baggage c be convey$ 9 "o4 ,! horses--almo/ inv>iably m>es--are small1 light animals %[+ evid5t trace ( ,arab blood4 ,!y are docile1 free f vice1 & m>vell\sly sure-foot$4 ,inde$1 9 ?is la/ respect !y f> surpass an av]age mule4 ,"s ( ! #8horse passes' on ! s\? side ( ! range w\ld be consid]$ by mo/ p impossible = horses & m fitt$ = goats4 ,! saddles are ,turki%1 i4e4 ) a high pommel 9 front & beh9d4 ,"s travell]s h recomm5d$ tak+ out an ,engli% saddle4 ,few rid]s1 h[ev]1 w\ld be able to reta9 _! seat on an ,engli% saddle :ile _! m\nts 7 scrambl+ d[n or up ! precipit\s brok5 bank ( "s rav9e or b$ ( a glaci] /ream4 ,sid5ote3 ,c5tres4 ,z 9 ! ,alps1 s 9 ! ,caucasus1 m climb+ w be got by settl+ at a c5tre ?an by travell+ ab\t f "o place to ano!r4 ,on ?is me?od ! necessity ( c>ry+ heavy t5ts1 l>ge supplies ( /ores1 etc41 is avoid$4 ,a c\ple ( light t5ts1 to accommodate two or ?ree m5 ea*1 are all t is necess>y4 ,good c5tres = ! v>i\s di/ricts are1 on ! nor? side1 ,urusbieh1 ,*egem1 ,balk>1 ,bez+i1 ,/irdigor & ,ds9ago2 9 ! ,tsaya valley1 ! sanatorium kept by ,m4 ,sanghiev 9 ! p9e =e/ ne> ,rekom2 ! inn at ,s>amag on ! ,upp] ,ardon2 ! ,russian road-h\ses ( ,kalaki on ! nor? & ,t%ant%akhi on ! s\? side ( ! ,mamison ,pass2 ,gebi on ! ,we/ ,rion ,riv]2 ,u%kul on ! headwat]s ( ! ,+ur2 ,me/ia or ,mulakh on ! ,mulkhora2 & ,bet%o j bel[ ! giant precipices ( ,u%ba4 ,to ,gebi & ,t%ant%akhi ,kas>ma on ! s\?1 & to mo/ places on ! ,european side ( ! range1 driv+ %\ld be possible n[adays4 ,sid5ote3 ,equipm5t & ,commiss>iat4 ,m\nta9e]+ 9 ! ,caucasus is /ill v mu* on explor+ l9es4 ,save 9 ! case ( ,kasbek or1 9 a m9or degree1 ( ,elbrus1 no huts1 guides or organization = climb+ exi/s4 ,! success ( an exp$ition mu/ !re=e l>gely dep5d ^u ! c>e & =e?\ght be/[$ ^u ! equipm5t & organization ( ! p>ty be=e x leaves railhead4 ,! climb+ equipm5t %\ld be exactly simil> to t ( ! ,alps2 b z any?+ lo/ _c be replac$1 ev]y?+ mu/ be at lea/ 9 duplicate4 ,inde$1 x is advisable to take out ?ree pairs ( climb+ boots--! odd pair = ! purpose ( l5d+ to port]s if x is f\nd necess>y to take !m ov] a glaci]1 s9ce x is n fair or safe to take heavily load$ m5 ) #8glov$' feet up /eep & slipp]y ice & sn[4 ,two ice-axes are ess5tial3 "o may easily get brok51 lo/ or /ol54 ,t5ts1 ( any ( ! light] ,engli% makes1 are be/ tak5 out4 ,ea/]n bags1 ) padlock & key1 are ! mo/ conv5i5t me?od ( c>ry+ sp>e clo!s4 ,among ^!1 two or ?ree complete *anges ( und]clo?+--( c\rse all wool--are necess>y4 ,pl5ty ( sp>e flannel coll>s & abundance ( /ock+s1 &1 ( c\rse1 und]socks1 are well wor? _! slight extra weight4 ,crampons are almo/ a necessity1 ?\gh cumbr\s & annoy+ to c>ry4 ,x is advisable to h a t9 case = ^!4 ,!y are ( imm5se s]vice 9 levell+ up ! good & ! inf]ior icem5 ( a p>ty1 & 9 cons]v+ ! en]gies ( ! /ep-cutt]1 or /ep-cutt]s1 = really difficult "w on rocks or ice slopes high] up4 ,) two pairs ( new--b brok5-9--mod]n m\nta9e]+ boots x ought to be q unnecess>y to take out nails1 iron boot anvil or hamm] = a two mon?s' campaign4 ,! g5]al /ores--cook+ ut5sils1 plates or b[ls1 cups 7mugs are pref]able71 table cutl]y1 travell+ /oves 7primus & alp9e71 c&les1 etc4--are be/ obta9$ 9 ! c\ntry4 ,! mo/ conv5i5t packages are /rong baskets4 ,^! %\ld be made at home1 & cov]$ ) /rong wat]pro( mat]ial4 ,size #be in*es by #ae in*es by #aa in*es is conv5i5t = horse c>riage1 & %\ld be furni%$ ) a /rong lock4 ,!y c also s]ve z seats 9 or outside ! t5ts4 ,! p]sonal equipm5t %\ld include a roll-up mattress--hair is ! be/--#f feet #f in*es by #b feet #d in*es1 a d[n quilt or sleep+-bag & a small pill[4 ,if ! t5t has a gr\nd %eet1 a wat]pro( cov] = ! mattress is n requir$4 ,to save tr\ble & exp5se on ! j\rney & at ! ,cu/oms1 x is mu* ! be/ plan to br+ z little z possible into ! c\ntry 9 ! way ( consumable /ores4 ,jam is p]haps ! "o exception4 ,= high "w jam is ( great importance1 & ! little -lb4 t9s to be obta9$ 9 ,london are extremely conv5i5t4 ,a few s\ps--p[d] or tabloid--are also useful = em]g5cies4 ,excell5t %ops are to be f\nd at all ! *ief railhead t[ns1 su* z ,tiflis1 ,vladikavkaz1 ,piatigorsk & ,nalt%ik2 also at ,kutais & ,oni on ! ,mamison road4 ,9 !m almo/ ev]y?+ obta9able 9 we/]n ,europe may be got4 ,_m diff]5t k9ds ( t9n$ meats1 fruits & fi% are to be _h1 b ! p>ty w\ld d well to h z little to d ) ^! z possible1 except p]haps a few boxes ( s>d9es4 ,9 ! c\ntry1 mutton1 f[ls & eggs are always to be obta9$1 & ^! are saf] & m palatable ?an ! t9n$ foods1 :i* %\ld be kept = em]g5cies & giv5 away at ! end ( ! trip4 ,! great weakness ( ! ,caucasian commiss>iat is 9 ! all-important item ( bread4 ,away f ! t[ns ?is is inv>iably v bad4 ,x is made ( maize or :eat fl\r mix$ ) rye1 or ( rye alone2 no yea/ or bak+ p[d] is us$1 & x is nev] prop]ly cook$4 ,naturally x is exce$+ly try+ to a we/]n /oma*4 ,:5 =c$ to use x1 "o %\ld h x well toa/$4 ,v good bread c be b\ght 9 ! t[ns1 & z l>ge a supply ( ?is z possible %\ld be tak54 ,!re is also an excell5t =m ( bread to be got 9 "s ( ! small dukhans or %ops up c\ntry4 ,x is 9 h>d glaz$ small r+s1 & is ?read$ on /r+s & hung up l onions to ! ro(4 ,x keeps well1 & is q palatable & dige/ible4 ,"o way ( ov]com+ ! bread difficulty w\ld be to engage a cook-int]pret]1 :o c\ld bake1 & to c>ry fl\r & a small portable ov5 ) ! p>ty4 ,sid5ote3 ,organization4 ,int]pret]-c\ri]s are to be f\nd at ,tiflis & ,vladikavkaz4 ,^!1 h[ev]1 w\ld n c>e to atta* !mselves to a climb+ p>ty1 or1 9 fact1 to leave ! roads at all2 walk+ = ev5 a few miles is n 9 _! l9e4 ,!re are guides & t>iffs--fairly reasonable--= bo? ,kasbek & ,elbrus4 ,good mat]ial und\bt$ly exi/s = ! developm5t ( a s*ool ( real m\nta9 guides1 b _! "t is n yet4 ,a climb+ p>ty mu/ br+ its own guides1 or1 bett] /ill1 h "s "o 9 ! p>ty :o1 by previ\s exp]i5ce or k ( guideless climb+ 9 ! ,alps1 is qualifi$ to act z guide & lead] on high asc5ts4 ,aft] bread & horses1 port]s are ! pr9cipal worry = ! lead] ( a p>ty 9 ! ,caucasus4 ,! m\nta9 tribes are indep5d5t & #8huffy1' & great tact & pati5ce are ne$$ 9 deal+ ) ^! semi-civiliz$ *ildr5 ( nature4 ,! m5 are n1 l ! ,swiss1 accu/om$ to c>ry heavy burd5s1 & are q ready to ?r[ up _! job & ?r[ d[n _! loads at or )\t a mom5t's notice4 ,! cook is a v important memb] ( ! p>ty4 ,he /&s = creature com=ts1 & ! p>ty is =tunate :i* succe$s 9 engag+ a capable man at ! t[n f :i* ! exp$ition />ts4 ,x is v necess>y = all purposes t "o at lea/ ( ! p>ty %\ld "k "s ,russian4 ,! cook-int]pret]1 if only "o man is engag$1 mu/ speak1 besides ,russian1 at lea/ "o we/]n ,european language1 & he mu/ h a good k ( z _m ( ! ,caucasian languages z possible4 ,sid5ote3 ,maps4 ,! g5]al map ( ! c\ntry is t kn[n z ! #e-v]/ map1 :i* is to be obta9$ 9 ,tiflis or f ! pr9cipal ,london map-sell]s4 ,x is on ! scale ( #e v]/s #c miles #a 9 #baj1jjj1 to ! in*4 ,?is1 ?\gh q accurate z f> z ! l[ c\ntry is conc]n$1 is ( little use 9 ! m\nta9s4 ,! be/ kn[n map is t issu$ ) ,messrs4 ,fre%field ,sellas's ,! ,exploration ( ! ,caucasus 7,edw>d ,arnold1 ,london1 #ahif74 ,x is on ! #e-v]/ scale1 & is a useful g5]al map1 ?\gh ! scale is too small to %[ ! m\nta9s prop]ly4 ,h]r ,m]zba*] issu$ ) 8 weighty "w1 ,aus d5 ,ho*region5 des ,kaukasus 7,leipzig1 #aija71 a v conv5i5t map on ! scale ( #c v]/s #a 9 #adj1jjj4 ,?is map is to be obta9$ f ! publi%]s4 ,x endeav\rs to give m names1 heights & details ( m\nta9s ?an ,mr4 ,fre%field's2 b ?is1 9 "s cases1 has l$ to a multiplication ( errors4 ,m\nta9s h be5 ins]t$ :i* explor]s ( ! locality h fail$ to f9d1 & 9 ! s\?-ea/]n portion ( ! c5tral gr\p ! nom5clature & heights giv5 are (t5 v mislead+4 ,by f> ! mo/ useful map1 & ! map :i* is practically indisp5sable = ! m\nta9 explor] :o is n prep>$ to make 8 own1 is ! ,russian #a-v]/ map4 ,?is is on a l>ge scale 7#a_/dbjjj74 ,x gives ) v consid]able accuracy ! =ms ( su* glaci]s & m\nta9s z are visible f positions reasonably accessible to ! surveyors4 ,x seldom commits itself by giv+ any names at all to ! peaks1 except to ! pr9cipal ones--al?\gh ! m important glaci]s are g5]ally nam$4 ,! pr9t+ ( ! names & figures--( c\rse 9 ,russian *>act]s--is (t5 exce$+ly bad4 ,! maps are on ! h*ure sy/em4 ,) ! exception ( ! %eet cov]+ ,kasbek1 :i* is on sale at ,vladikavkaz1 !y c only be obta9$ ?r\gh ! milit>y au?orities 9 ,tiflis4 ,sid5ote3 ,exp5se4 ,?is w1 ( c\rse1 greatly dep5d ^u ! /yle 9 :i* ! exp$ition is conduct$4 ,if a c\ri]-int]pret] is engag$1 & ,swiss guides are br\ght1 ! exp5se mu/ be expect$ to be consid]able4 ,9 spite ( ! g5]al rise 9 ! co/ ( liv+ & 9 ! price ( lab\r1 :i* ( late ye>s has increas$ 9 ! ,caucasus--betwe5 #ej & a #ajj p] c5t--an eight or n9e weeks' j\rney out f ,london & back c be done com=tably at a co/ n exce$+ #ajj = ea* memb] ( a p>ty ( f\r1 five or six4 ,bel[ are giv5 a few prices1 bas$ on ! exp]i5ce ( ! exp$itions made 9 ! ye>s #aijd1 #aiaa & #aiac4 ,!y are1 ( c\rse1 only approximate4 ,food/uffs w be f\nd n to v>y s mu* 9 co/ z ! hire ( horses & port]s4 #aijd4 #aiaa4 #aiac4 ,horse1 p] day #a-c ,r4 #a-b ,r4 #c-d ,r4 ,port]1 p] day -- #a ,r4 #a-d ,r4 ,%eep 7small7 #d-f ,r4 -- #c-e ,r4 ,h5s 7small7 #bj-dj ,k4 -- #ce-ej ,k4 ,eggs 7small7 #a-b ,k4 -- #a-b ,k4 ,bread 7ab\t #b lb47 #h ,k4 -- #aj ,k4 ,*eese #ae ,k4 -- #aj-bj ,k4 ,w9e 7,kakhet9skoe71 litre -- -- #a ,r4 ,be] -- -- #ae-bj ,k ,suck+-pig 7v small7 #b-c ,r4 -- #b ,r4 ,r\ble #bs4 #a;d4 ,kopeck d4 ,note4--,all prices giv5 are pre-w>4 ,,*apt] ,,xiv ,,! ,,m\nta9s ,,( ,,corsica ,,by ,,george ,,f9* ,sid5ote3 ,season4 ,! be/ "t ( ! ye> = climb+ 9 ,corsica is ! spr+4 ,! wea!r is f9e dur+ ! mon?s ( ,april1 ,may1 ,june & ,july2 b 9 ! latt] half ( ,june & 9 ,july ! midday heat is (t5 oppressive4 ,?is is seldom ! case 9 ,april or ,may4 ,dur+ ^! two mon?s ! melt+ sn[s ensure a supply ( wat]1 :i* is (t5 defici5t 9 ! hot summ] mon?s4 ,9 ,april1 also1 ! sn[l9e is /ill v l[2 f ! m\nta9e]'s po9t ( view ?is is an advantage1 z ! approa* to ! climbs (t5 lies ov] long slopes cov]$ ) d5se und]gr[?1 kn[n z #8maquis1' & mo/ tr\blesome = walk+ :5 n sn[-cov]$4 ,z e>ly z t[>ds ! end ( ,m>* ! /eep] rocks are already suffici5tly free f sn[ = climb+1 :ile ! sn[ on ! g5tl] slopes rema9s to facilitate ! cross+ ( ! #8maquis4' ,ano!r po9t 9 fav\r ( an e>ly season is ! great] cle>ness ( ! atmosph]e4 ,9 ,m>* & ,april ( #aiji f e summit we _h a cle> view ( ! ,ap5n9es & ( ! ,m>itime ,alps ev5 late 9 ! day4 ,9 ! summ] mon?s mi/s ris+ f ! ,m$it]ranean p>tially obscure ! view %ortly aft] sunrise4 ,sid5ote3 ,equipm5t4 ,a light t5t & sleep+-bags %\ld be tak51 z ! nights are (t5 cold4 ,a primus oil-/ove 7petroleum us$ to be obta9$ almo/ any:]e1 b me?ylat$ spirits 7 difficult to procure71 & t9n$ milk1 meats1 vegetables1 fruit & jam mu/ all be import$1 z !y are n procurable 9 ,corsica4 ,su* provisions are dutiable1 b my p]sonal exp]i5ce has be5 t ! ,cu/oms are indulg5t if in=m$ ( ! m\nta9e]+ object4 ,= port]age1 mules c be procur$4 ,"o mule w c>ry #bej lb41 & co/s1 toge!r ) ! s]vices ( ! mule-driv]1 accord+ to ! locality1 f f\r to eight francs a day4 ,bo? driv] & mule ent]ta9 a dislike to sn[1 & w %y at ! prospect ( cross+ ev5 ! mo/ dim9utive sn[-pat*es4 ,o!rwise !y w g almo/ any:]e4 ,i h cov]$ z mu* z #ch miles ( road1 scrub & m\nta9-track 9 a day ) "o mule c>ry+ r ov] #bjj lb4 ,! "* ( ! usual hotel accommodation 9 ! int]ior w be f\nd to bias ! climb] 9 fav\r ( camp+ out4 ,he c ?us also move at once ne>] to ! base ( 8 climbs4 ,wood = fires is pl5tiful1 & _m /reams provide tr\t-fi%+ 7?ree to ! p\nd74#bf ,! two mo/ important m\nta9 gr\ps are ^? ( ! ,rotondo & ! ,c9to4 ,sid5ote3 ,c5tres1 ,modes ( ,access1 & ,topography4 ,! g>rison t[n ( ,corte w act z a c5tre to bo? ^! di/ricts4 ,x is rea*$ by a f\r h\rs' rail j\rney f ei!r ,ba/ia or ,ajaccio4 ,a /eam%ip s]vice connects ,ba/ia ) ,leghorn ?ree times a week 7five h\rs' cross+74 ,fairly frequ5t s]vices likewise connect ,ajaccio ) ,nice 7twelve h\rs7 & ) ,m>seilles 7sixte5 h\rs74 ,! approa* to ,corsica by all ?ree r\tes is magnific5t1 especially t ( ,nice to ,ajaccio4 ,x is well wor? :ile to make ?is cross+ by a day s]vice4 ,f ,corte a good camp+ c5tre at ! head ( ! ,re/onica valley1 9 ! he>t ( ! ,rotondo gr\p1 c be rea*$ 9 f\r h\rs 7mule-track mo/ ( ! way74 ,! true c5tre ( ! ,c9to gr\p is ,calacuccia4 ,?is village c be rea*$ f ,corte 9 six h\rs1 walk+ ov] ! ,col de la ,r9ella2 b !re is no mule-track4 ,! view f ?is ,col embraces practically ! :ole ,c9to gr\p4 ,an alt]native r\te1 advisable :5 x is necess>y to transport baggage1 is f ,corte to ,franc>do 7half an h\r's rail71 & !nce 9 ?ree h\rs by c>riage 7po/al s]vice1 or hir$ conveyance1 #ae francs7 to ,calacuccia4 ,conv5i5t camp+ c5tres 9 ! ,rodda1 ,erco1 ,viro & ,golo valleys c !nce be rea*$ 9 f ?ree to five h\rs4 ,= ! nor!rn slopes ( ! ,c9to gr\p ,asco is ! be/ c5tre 7?ree h\rs by road f ! railway /ation1 ,ponte ,leggia74 ,?is village also s]ves z a base = ! magnific5t *a9 ( m\nta9s runn+ ea/w>ds f ,monte ,padro 7#bdjj metres7 to ,monte ,corona 7#badc metres71 & !nce 9 a s\!rly direction to ,punta ,m9uta 7#bedg metres7 9 ! ,c9to gr\p4 ,to ! nor? ( ,monte ,padro lies ! ,t>tag9e valley1 at ! head ( :i* is ! ,capo al ,d5te 7#bjcb metres71 "o ( ! mo/ sport+ peaks 9 ! isl&4 ,a numb] ( unclimb$ peaks close 9 ! valley to ! nor?4 ,! approa* to ! ,t>tag9e valley is r tr\blesome4 ,f ,palasca 7on ! ,ba/ia-,calvi railway l9e7 via ,mausolo to ! maison =e/ire1 ! be/ c5tre1 takes eight to t5 h\rs by a good road4 ,o!r gr\ps (f]+ good climb+ & an abundance ( #8fir/ asc5ts' & #8new r\tes' are ! ,monte d',oro & ,monte ,r5oso gr\ps4 ,vizzavona1 ! c5tre = bo? ^! ranges1 boa/s ( good hotel accommodation1 & c be rea*$ 9 ?ree h\rs by rail f ,ajaccio & 9 "o h\r f ,corte4 ,! above-m5tion$ m\nta9 gr\ps are ^? :i* w attract ! climb] mo/ ( all4 ,!y (f] almo/ endless possibilities = fir/-rate climb+ ov] bo? kn[n & virg9 gr\nd4 ,) ! exception ( ,monte ,r5osa1 ! ma9 m\nta9 gr\ps lie to ! ea/ ( ! ,ajaccio-,ba/ia railway1 & = ?is reason mo/ climb]s pref] to approa* ! m\nta9s f ! ea/1 f ,corte1 ! half-way /ation on ! l9e4 ,!re is1 h[ev]1 little to *oose betwe5 ! ea/]n & we/]n slopes--bo? (f] high-class climb+1 & pref]5ce might n[ well be giv5 to ! we/]n slopes1 z "h mu* m rema9s to be accompli%$ 9 ! way ( pione] "w4 ,z a g5]al rule1 camp c5tres = climb+ on ! we/]n slopes ( ! d',oro1 ,rotondo1 ,c9to & ,corona gr\ps are be/ rea*$ by cross+ ! ma9 *a9s f ,corte4 ,9 ^! cases ! m\nta9e] w h to act z 8 own bea/ ( burd5 unless ! r\te be entirely free f sn[1 :i* is v unlikely 9 ! spr+4 ,!re are a great numb] ( m\nta9 gr\ps ei!r ( m9or importance or difficult ( access 7! ,incud9e1 #bacf metres2 ,punta di ,capella1 #bjdd2 etc471 b z a rule f ! climb+ po9t ( view !y are ( little int]e/4 ,m5tion %\ld be made ( ! *a9 ( hills1 atta9+ heights ( ov] #acjj metres1 :i* =ms ! backbone ( ! promontory ( ,cap ,corse4 ,! ma9 ridge c be trav]s$ ?r\gh\t its l5g? 9 "o long day f ,ba/ia1 & ! spl5d\r ( ! views d[n on to ! ,m$it]ranean & t[>ds ! ranges ( ! int]ior is beyond all description4#bg ,sid5ote3 ,nature ( ! ,climb+4 ,!re are no glaci]s 9 ,corsica1 ?\gh 9 ! ,c9to & ,rotondo gr\ps sn[-pat*es occasionally survive ! summ]'s heat4 ,bo? ^! gr\ps %[ m>k$ traces ( glaci] action4 ,! ice "w is limit$ to cutt+ 9 ice-*ok$ *imneys & to cle>+ rocks4 ,long1 /eep1 h>d-froz5 sn[ slopes necessitat+ a su/a9$ use ( ! axe are seldom enc\nt]$1 & ice-claws may safely be disp5s$ )4 ,on ! o!r h&1 ski might prove to be ( great value1 z ! return on foot f a climb ov] ! long slopes ( s(t sn[ ly+ on ! #8maquis' is (t5 v try+4 ,devotees ( ski-+ w f9d pl5ty ( spl5did gr\nd1 especially on ! ea/]n & s\!rn slopes ( ! ,c9to gr\p4 ,! rock is s\nd1 & h&holds are only too abundant4 ,z a g5]al rule1 only ^? climbs are difficult :i* lead up ov] app>5tly p]p5dicul> rock walls or ridges1 rocks :i* f ! di/ance look hopelessly impossible4 ,?is deceptive appe>ance may acc\nt = ! fact t until #aiji no climb ( exceptional difficulty 0 accompli%$ 9 ! isl&4 ,paglia ,orba 7#bejj metres71 ! ,matt]horn ( ,corsica & ! mo/ conspicu\s m\nta9 ( ! ,c9to gr\p1 may be tak5 z an in/ance4 ,! ea/ wall 0 fir/ climb$ 9 ! ,spr+ ( #aiji4 ,! f9al #ajjj feet ( ?is wall appe> to ov]hang1 & actually d s = consid]able sections ( ! asc5t4 ,! unique "* ( ?is climb w\ld alone ju/ify a visit to ! isl&4 ,! possibilities ( new climbs--bo? new r\tes & fir/ asc5ts--are /ill num]\s4 ,no?+ ne$ be decl>$ impossible on ! /r5g? ( an inspection f a di/ance2 ! *ances are t a r\te ( ! mo/ hopeless appe>ance w #8g1' & also provide ! be/ ( climb+4 ,! view f almo/ any summit embraces great] or less] portions ( ! sunny coa/-l9e1 :i* adds ! *>m ( contra/ to ! alp9e surr\nd+s4 ,,footnotes3 #bf ,f ! po9t ( view ( exp5se1 ! m\nta9e] w f9d m\nta9e]+ 9 ,corsica exceptionally *eap4 ,hotel prices av]age five to six francs p] diem1 b ! climb] :o sp5ds mo/ ( 8 "t 9 t5ts w incur ev5 ?is mod]ate exp5se only = comp>atively brief p]iods4 ,! return f>e to ,ajaccio is ab\t #h1 &1 provid$ ! climb] imports 8 own /ock ( t9n$ provisions1 a fur!r sum ( #ae to #bj %\ld be m ?an ample = a mon?'s soj\rn 9 ! isl&1 on a pre-w> e/imate4 #bg ,:5 "o consid]s ! proximity ( ! m\nta9s to ! coa/1 _! height 7,monte ,c9to1 #bgaj metres7 is consid]able2 & _m magnific5t walls ( well ov] #bjjj or ev5 #cjjj feet are to be met )4 ,joanne's guide-book1 ,la ,corse 7,ha*ette et ,cie1 ,p>is71 & ,ba$ek]1 conta9 v full in=mation z reg>ds accommodation1 etc4 ,ba$ek] supplies mu* useful in=mation on ! m\nta9s !mselves4 ,! be/ maps are ^? ( ! ,corps d'tat-,major1 on a scale ( #a to #hj1jjj4 ,!y are some:at unreliable1 & ! rev]se ( cle>4 ,^! & o!r maps are procurable at ! /ation]s' %ops 9 ,ajaccio & ,ba/ia4 ,,*apt] ,,xv ,,! ,,himalaya ,,by ,t4 ,g4 ,,long/aff ,al?\gh ! natural & physical conditions 9 ^? ranges loosely call$ ! ,himalaya are probably m div]se ?an 9 any o!r m\nta9 region 9 ! _w1 /ill a c]ta9 am\nt ( g5]alization is possible4 ,,g5]al ,,consid]ations ,sid5ote3 ,configuration4 ,ess5tially1 we f9d two m or less p>allel ranges4 ,! s\!rn & highe/ is visible f ! pla9s4 ,on ?is /& ! great peaks ^: names are famili> to u4 ,?is out] range is pi]c$ by num]\s riv]s :i* bur/ ?r\gh a s]ies ( deep1 n>r[ gorges4 ,! l[ elevation ( ^! riv] valleys br+s an almo/ tropical fauna & flora up to ! foot ( ! ,sn[s4 ,! sn[l9e on ?is range1 ow+ to great] precipitation1 rea*es d[n l[] ?an on ! second range1 t to ! nor?4 ,?is second1 or nor!rn1 range con/itutes ! local wat]-p>t+ betwe5 ,india & ! c\ntries to ! nor?4 ,x is rea*$ by broad1 op51 treeless valleys almo/ ,tibetan 9 "* z 9 fauna4 ,its sn[l9e is high ow+ to ! dri] climate4 ,! peaks seldom atta9 #be1jjj feet1 &1 9 g5]al1 are n s precipit\s z ! great l9e ( peaks to ! s\?4 ,ev5 9 ,ka%mir ?is arrangem5t ( two p>allel ranges may be trac$2 b ?\gh !re is pl5ty ( f9e climb+ on ! ranges :i* enclose betwe5 !m ! ,vale ( ,ka%mir1 mo/ ( :i* h already fall5 to ! attacks ( resid5ts & ,briti% (fic]s1 yet ! eyes ( ! m\nta9e] f ,engl& w be fix$ on ! va/ range ( ! ,k>akoram beyond ! ,indus4 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,himalaya ,c4 ,f4 ,,meade ,?is gr& *a9 has a "* ( its own1 ?\gh !re are po9ts ( resemblance to bo? ranges ( ! ,himalaya4 ,! glaci]s are ! l>ge/ outside ! ,pol> regions4 ,! peaks are v high & v precipit\s4 ,x is ! c\ntry p> excell5ce = ! m\nta9 explor]2 b = ! m\nta9 climb] ! greate/ drawback is ! j\rney ( f\r to six weeks f ,engl& to ! sc5e ( op]ations4 ,sid5ote3 ,climb+ ,conditions4 ,rock climb+ is ! same all ! _w ov] 9 t ! conditions v>y on e m\nta9 9 any range4 ,also1 a rock peak _c be really reconnoitr$ f a di/ance2 we mu/ come to grips ) ! rocks be=e we c "k ! practicability ( a r\te4 ,z to sn[ & ice1 ,i ?9k conditions are worse 9 ! ,himalaya ?an 9 ! ,alps or ,caucasus1 *iefly ow+ to great] v>iations ( temp]ature4 ,avalan*es ( all k9ds are bigg]1 & great caution mu/ be ex]cis$ 9 ! *oice ( camps & biv\acs4 ,sn[ & ice slopes 9 ! ,alps appe> to me to look /eep] ?an !y ev5tually turn out to be4 ,9 ! ,caucasus !y are ab\t z /eep z !y look4 ,9 ! ,himalaya ,i h usually f\nd !m m>k$ly /eep] ?an _! di/ant appe>ance l$ me to expect4 ,sid5ote3 ,managem5t4 ,div]se z are ! physical conditions ( ! ,himalayan regions1 ! inhabitants !re( %[ an ev5 great] v>iety ( "*4 ,"s g5]al rules ( conduct may1 h[ev]1 be indicat$1 ?\gh mo/ ( !m may be consid]$ by m\nta9e]s z truisms n wor? ! /at+4 ,! fir/ object to keep 9 view is to create su* an impression among/ ! natives z w make ! pa? ( subsequ5t visitors easi] & n h>d]4 ,almo/ all hill m5 are sup]/iti\s4 ,y mu/ expect timidity at fir/4 ,rememb] p>ticul>ly t native s]vants are v prone to abuse ! au?ority :i* 9 ! eyes ( ! villag]s is acquir$ by ! m]e fact ( _! be+ 9 y\r s]vice4 ,! hill man is usually in>ticulate2 he kn[s y _c speak 8 dialect1 & probably y\r s]vants are ! only int]pret]s4 ,y\r wat*fulness is 8 only *ance ( a squ>e deal4 ,pay = ev]y?+ ) y\r own h&1 if x be only an anna = a few eggs4 ,( c\rse always pay y\r day-to-day coolies y\rself1 &1 if !y desire x1 give ea* 8 f\r or eight annas sep>ately1 only pay+ ov] a :ole rupee to a gr\p f ! same hamlet4 ,religi\s beliefs are v mix$ 9 ! hills1 & x is a good rule to keep well away :5 y\r coolies1 :atev] _! race1 are cook+ or eat+4 ,( c\rse y mu/ nev] (f] !m cook$ food4 ,away f ! villages1 & if only two or ?ree m5 are ) y1 su* ?+s z biscuits & jam--be+ assum$ n to be made by h&--may be (f]$ if necess>y4 ,?is applies m especially to ,h9dus2 b ?\gh ,moslems %\ld eat ) ,*ri/ians1 ! same rules _h bett] be appli$4 ,) ,gurkhas 7?\gh nom9al ,h9dus7 or o!rs ) ! /ra9 ( ,mongolian blood 9 !m--:o are or h till lately be5 ,buddhi/s--! code ne$ n be q s /rict4 ,^! rem>ks might seem unnecess>y to anyone hav+ exp]i5ce only ( sport or travel 9 ,high ,asia2 b = ! m\nta9e] :o essays to take coolies or %ik>is to high biv\acs x is obvi\sly ( great advantage to get !m to adopt ,european foods & me?ods ( cook+4 ,?is 0 successfully done by ! ,italian exp$ition to ! ,k>akoram 9 #aiji4 ,tea 7native gre5 is be/7 & ! vile/ cig>ettes may be (f]$ to any coolie )\t fe> ( (f5ce z a rew>d aft] an extra h>d day4 ,! gift ( a %eep or goat on suitable occasions produces a gl[ ( cont5tm5t all ?r\gh ! camp4 ,z to m g5]al conduct3 ,refra9 f :i/l+4 ,d n ba! nak$ be=e natives4 ,nev] lose y\r temp] except on purpose & ) a def9ite object4 ,nev] all[ y\r s]vants to be famili> or to ent] y\r t5t ) _! %oes on4 ,d n laugh or joke ) y\r m5 unless y are ma/] ( ! language4 ,if y d1 y may be z broad z possible1 especially ) ,gurkhas4 ,exact prop] respect f all village (ficials ) :om y come 9 contact4 ,conv]sely1 treat a native g5tleman ) ! same c\rtesy t y expect y\rself4 ,h9du religi\s m5dicants & devotees are easily irritat$1 & are be/ left sev]ely alone4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,campaign4 ,x is absolutely ess5tial t ! climb] plann+ a visit to ! ,himalaya %\ld make up 8 m9d exactly :at he wants to d4 ,leav+ aside exploration1 ! mo/ dang]\s lure on ! pa? ( ! m\nta9e]1 we may = conv5i5ce conf9e ourselves to two c\rses--! attack on "s p>ticul> & probably v high peak2 or a less ambiti\s & m g5]al campaign 9 "s select$ di/rict 9 :i* climb+ = its own sake1 ap>t f any design ( rais+ #8! record1' is ! object aim$ at4 ,hav+ settl$ ! /rategic idea1 we mu/ next consid] tactics4 ,9 ! case ( a s+le big m\nta91 ! me?od ( attack w be 9 ! nature ( siege op]ations2 & 9 ?is case a siege tra91 9 ! =m ( ,pi$montese guides1 makes = success4 ,/ill1 a siege is dull1 & to get ! full pleasure out ( a trip 9 ! ,himalaya1 amateurs & n guides are ! be/ companions4 ,! difficulty is to get !m = an abs5ce ( sev]al mon?s f ,engl&4 ,z a matt] ( tactics1 ! writ] pref]s1 ) or )\t guides1 to try & #8ru%' peaks2 = by ?is means f> ! mo/ climb+ is secur$4 ,on ! o!r h&1 m frequ5t failure is risk$ by su* direct attacks4 ,unless ! wea!r is fav\rable1 a successful high asc5t is q impossible2 & if a climb] is mov+ ab\t & cont9ually attack+ diff]5t peaks1 he loses *ances on p>ticul> peaks :i* ! besieg]1 wait+ ^u _! fav\rable mom5ts1 c take in/ant advantage (4 ,!re is1 fur!r1 ! vex$ "q ( ! actual f9al assault4 ,%\ld x be a gradual pu%+ ( biv\acs high] & high]1 9 ! hope ( acclimatiz+ ourselves to ! want ( oxyg52 or %\ld we make ! la/ biv\ac z l[ d[n z possible1 9 ! hope t bett] conditions = dige/ion & sleep w enable u to put =? "o trem5d\s ef=t on ! f9al day ( ! adv5ture8 ,subjection to l[ pressures1 or want ( oxyg51 = days or weeks w f9d out our weake/ spots4 ,) "s ! belly1 ) o!rs ! m9d4 ,= myself1 ,i "k t aft] sev]al nights at v high altitudes my m9d is dull & my c\rage r$uc$ to vani%+-po9t4 ,9 all cases1 s f> z ,i "k1 !re is consid]able loss ( weight4 ,to actual m\nta9 sickness we c acclimatize ourselves by go+ z frequ5tly z possible above #bj1jjj feet4 ,b we _c /ay = long at v high altitudes & pres]ve all our /r5g?4 ,we mu/ come d[n aga9 soon to #ae1jjj feet1 or l[] if we c4 ,x is easi] to d5y ?an to prove ! exi/5ce ( m\nta9 sickness2 b al?\gh we d n ble$ f ! e>s1 or ev5 ! nose1 n[adays1 mo/ ( u suff] "s dim9ution ( our p[]s4 ,?is be+ s1 x appe>s t ! be/ *ance ( success on a v high m\nta9 is to s5d "s "o else to exam9e ! f9al r\te & to lay ! la/ biv\ac = ! /orm+ p>ty2 j high en\gh = !m1 suppos+ !y are 9 good condition1 to rea* ! summit well on 9 ! foll[+ aft]noon4 ,?is may seem a s\lless way to we> a m\nta9 d[n2 b x is m]ely ! application ( ,pol> me?ods to slightly *ang$ conditions4 ,z 9 ! ,pol> regions1 also1 ! wea!r decides betwe5 success & failure1 betwe5 return & no return4 ,because ( ! cold1 x is unwise to />t be=e sunrise4#bh ,! risk is less 9 desc5d+ easy gr\nd at night--p]haps because movem5t is !n quick]4 ,a concrete example puts ! case %ortly4 ,trisul is only "s #bc1djj feet high1 b x appe>s to be ! highe/ peak ( :i* ! complete asc5t is univ]sally admitt$4 ,aft] two nights1 at ab\t #bj1jjj feet1 9 bad wea!r1 ! p>ty retreat$ to #ad1jjj feet4 ,?ree days lat]1 aft] "o biv\ac at ab\t #ah1jjj feet1 ! summit 0 rea*$ at #d p4m4 7#aj h\rs71 & ! night 0 sp5t on ! return at ab\t #af1ejj feet4 ,sid5ote3 ,season4 ,g5]ally speak+1 ! regul> ra9y season 7#8monsoon'7 comm5ces 9 ,july & ends 9 ,septemb]2 b all ! _w ov] m ra9 falls1 & falls m frequ5tly1 on m\nta9s ?an on ! c\ntry imm$iately surr\nd+ !m4 ,h5ce1 ?\gh probably ,june is ! be/ mon? = ! high peaks1 we _c ev5 !n c\nt on cont9u\s f9e wea!r4 ,x is always easy to avoid ! monsoon by pu%+ nor? into ! second range2 b "h aga9 x mu/ n be expect$ t ! highe/ peaks w completely con=m to ! ra9less "* ( ! re/ ( ?is region4 ,:5 ! ra9s are ov]1 9 ,septemb] & ,octob] spells ( glori\sly f9e & cle> wea!r are ! rule2 b ! nights are !n bitt]ly cold above ! tree-l9e4 ,,! ,,*ief ,,di/ricts ,?\gh ! ,himalaya1 9 ! wide/ s5se ( ! t]m1 ext5d beyond ! ,brahmapootra on ! ea/ & beyond ! ,indus on ! we/1 we may impose ^! limits ^u !m = pres5t purposes4 ,fur!rmore1 only sections ( ^! ranges are at pres5t politically accessible to ! m\nta9e]4 ,practically ! :ole ( ! ,himalayan region is cov]$ by ! ,great ,trigonometrical ,survey ( ,india on a scale ( "o in* to f\r miles4 ,! %eets are obta9able 9 ,london4 ,x w\ld be easy to criticize ?is map 9 detail4 ,= reasons ( f9ance & policy1 ! surveyors 7 ord]$ to cov] a v l>ge area ea* season & n to attempt detail$ surveys ( un9habit$ areas4 ,x w\ld be1 !re=e1 manife/ly unfair to set up claims :i* 7 nev] made by ! au?ors & !n to demoli% !m4#bi ,sid5ote3 ,! ,ea/]n ,himalaya4 ,= ,bhutan1 x is be/ to consult ,claude ,:ite's ,sikkim & ,bhutan 7,arnold1 #aiji74 ,x w\ld be necess>y to obta9 special leave f ! ,gov]nm5t ( ,india to travel "h2 & ! c\ntry is n v promis+ f our po9t ( view4 ,sid5ote3 ,sikkim4 ,= ,sikkim1 consult ,mr4 ,fre%field's ,r\nd ,kang*5junga1 & sev]al pap]s by ,dr4 ,kellas 9 ! ,alp9e & ,geographical ,j\rnals4 ,sikkim is a region ( tropical contra/s1 m]g+ on ! nor? into ,tibetan conditions4 ,! vegetation is magnific5t4 ,! great peaks 9 ! s\? are difficult2 9 ! nor? mu* easi]1 :]e ! isolat$ peak ( ,*umolh>i 7#bc1icj feet7 has long *all5g$ att5tion4 ,! />t+-po9t is ,d>jeel+1 rea*$ by rail 9 a day & night f ,calcutta1 or 9 ?ree days f ,bombay4 ,a call %\ld be made on ! ,deputy ,commission]1 especially if ! climb] int5ds to ent] native ,sikkim4 ,at pres5t p]mission w\ld n be giv5 to ent] ,nepal or ,tibet1 & probably n = ,bhutan4 ,/ores c be b\ght be=eh& at ,d>jeel+1 & a ,buddhi/ cook %\ld be1 if possible1 secur$4 ,! semi-,tibetan natives ( ,upp] ,sikkim1 & simil> immigrants f nor?-ea/]n ,nepal1 are spl5did mat]ial = glaci] "w4 ,dr4 ,kellas ) ^! p f\nd himself q able to disp5se ) alp9e guides4 ,!y are *e]ful1 smil+ & easy = ,europeans to get on )1 fond ( a joke1 &1 if h&l$ well1 hone/ & reliable4 ,= ! fir/ "p ( ! j\rney 9 ! l[] c\ntry tempor>y coolies c well be us$4 ,sid5ote3 ,nepal4 ,9 ,nepal1 ?\gh 9 c]ta9 circum/ances ! fronti] is n inviolable1 yet = a v>iety ( reasons1 n all political1 an ,engli%man is n likely to be able to p5etrate to any ( ! great peaks4 ,at ! same "t1 = ! m\nta9e] z well z = ! explor]1 few j\rneys are bett] wor? mak+ ?an t up ! valley ( ! ,g&ak1 or ! ,kosi1 into ! he>t ( ! gr&e/ ( all m\nta9 ranges4 ,sid5ote3 ,kumaon & ,g>hwal4 ,to my m9d ?is is ! f9e/ "p ( ! ,himalaya at pres5t accessible4 ,x is ! mo/ #8alp9e' portion ( ! ,himalaya1 possess+ peaks ov] #be1jjj feet4 ,! sc5]y1 flora & fauna are exce$+ly beautiful & v>i$4 ,x conta9s mu* difficult gr\nd1 ev5 bel[ ! tree-l9e4 ,mo/ ( ! highe/ peaks are v sev]e4 ,t[>ds ,tibet ! c\ntry op5s out & ! m\nta9s are easi]4#cj ,! approa* is by rail to ,ka?godam4 ,!re foll[s a %ort drive to ,na9i ,tal1 :]e all ord9>y supplies may be obta9$4 ,!nce a driv+ road to ,ranikhet & a pony road to ,almora1 :]e fair supplies are also obta9able4 ,a =mal p]mit mu/ be obta9$ f ! ,deputy ,commission] ( ,almora1 & two *uprassis w be told (f to engage coolies f village to village4 ,= ,g>hwal x w probably be necess>y to get a sep>ate p]mit & *uprassis f ! ,deputy ,commission] at ,pawri4 ,:5 ! base ( op]ations is rea*$ 9 ,g>hwal or ,kumaon1 x is advisable to engage a few local m5 z p]man5t coolies4 ,! ord9>y /ages are work$ by relays ( coolies f village to village4 ,9 ^!1 native fl\r 7ata71 rice1 f[ls1 goats &1 high] up1 %eep c usually be obta9$4 ,a ,mussulman cook c be obta9$ 9 ,na9i ,tal4 ,an army res]vi/--,g>hwali or ,gurkha--w\ld be f\nd ( assi/ance4 ,he %\ld be provid$ ) an extra broad pair ( good nail$ boots4 ,gurla ,m&hata 7#be1cej feet7 is j ov] ! fronti] 9 ,tibet4 ,access to x is at pres5t b>r$ by our own ,gov]nm5t4 ,x c be rea*$ ?r\gh ,kumaon 9 a =tnight f ,almora1 & is probably easily climbable f ! ,gurla ,glaci]4#ca ,9 ,g>hwal ! ,ri%i ,nali ) ,n&a ,devi 7#be1ffj feet7 is ! c5tre ( attraction4#cb ,"u pres5t conditions x is n likely to be climb$4 ,dunagiri 7#bc1ahd feet71 an outli] ( ?is gr\p1 is pretty c]ta9ly climbable by ,graham's r\te--! s\?-we/ ridge--f a biv\ac at ! head ( ! ,tolma valley4 ,f>!r nor?1 ,kamet 7#be1ddc feet71 alli$ ) bad wea!r1 has s f> defi$ repeat$ attacks4 ,e v>iety ( climb+ is to be f\nd on ^! m\nta9s1 & x is a region t seems to ex]t an extraord9>y fasc9ation on e "o :o has visit$ x4 ,9 ! matt] ( secur+ coolies = climb+ purposes1 x is well to rememb] t ! ,kumaonis are a poor lot2 ! ,danpurias & ,g>hwalis are bett]2 ! p>tially ,h9duiz$ ,bhotias ( ,badr9a? ,niti & ,milam are good2 ! /ill m ,mongolian p ( ,gh>byang1 & ( ! nor?-we/ corn] ( ,nepal1 are spl5did1 & c be tak5 on into ,tibet4 ,sid5ote3 ,tehri ,g>hwal4 ,?is small native hill /ate1 we/ ( ,briti% ,g>hwal1 conta9s "s v f9e peaks ar\nd ,gangotri4 ,x is rea*$ f ,lansd[ne or ,mussoori4 ,to facilitate travel1 an introduction %\ld be obta9$ to ! ,rajah4 ,! m\nta9s pres5t a mo/ promis+ & practically unt\*$ field = ! m\nta9e]4 ,z coolies1 ! local m5 9 ! nor? are probably pretty good4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,simla ,hill ,/ates4 ,kangra1 ,kulu1 ,spiti1 ,lahaol & ,bu%ahr embrace a v l>ge m\nta9 area1 & (f] unlimit$ scope to ! less ambiti\s m\nta9e]4 ,x is an #8alp9e' region1 b /ill on ! ,himalayan scale4 ,! peaks r>ely atta9 #bc1jjj feet4 ,b probably m actual climb+ c be obta9$ 9 "o season "h ?an 9 any o!r section ( ! ,himalaya4 ,g5]al ,bruce's book1 ,kulu & ,lah\l1 %\ld be consult$4 ,! entry is f ,dh>msala or ,simla4 ,! latt]1 probably1 w be easie/ = new-com]s to ,india1 s9ce !re is a railway to ,simla2 & at ,simla supplies & s]vants c be obta9$4 ,h9dus1 ,buddhi/s1 & nom9al ,moslems are met )1 & = coolies1 x w\ld seem t ! quality ( ! natives improves z we move nor?4 ,*amba is a semi-indep5d5t hill /ate4 ,! arrangem5ts = travell+ mu/ be made ) ! ,rajah4 ,x is a difficult c\ntry1 & n v promis+4 ,manimais 7or ,mani ,mahais71 h[ev]1 looks magnific5t4 ,sid5ote3 ,ka%mir & ,k>akoram4 ,! m\nta9e]+ lit]ature on ! ,k>akoram is volum9\s1 & x w\ld be out ( place to ent] into details4 ,a drawback to ?is region is ! "t x takes to rea* ! m\nta9s4 ,! railway runs to ,rawal ,p9di2 !nce by c>riage or motor to ,sr9ag>1 two to t5 days1 accord+ to ! /ate ( ! road4 ,f !re x is a matt] ( coolie or pony transport1 accord+ to ! "t ( ye> & ! r\te *os54 ,! "t tak5 f ,sr9ag> to ,a/or 7= ! ,nanga ,p>bat gr\p7 w be aga9 ab\t t5 days2 or f ,sr9ag> to ,sk>du 7= ! we/]n ,k>akoram7 ab\t a =tnight4 ,f ,sr9ag> to ,leh takes ab\t ?ree weeks4 ,! r\tes !mselves v>y consid]ably accord+ to ! "t ( ye>4 ,x may be rem>k$ t !re is a v promis+ #be1jjj-;foot gr\p1 :i* c be easily rea*$ f ,panamik 9 ! ,upp] ,nubra ,valley4#cc ,un=tunately1 our p>ty 0 prev5t$ by bad wea!r f mak+ any?+ l a ?or\gh reconnaissance4 ,x w\ld probably take two mon?s to rea* ! foot ( ! peak f ,engl&4 ,! ,ka%miris 7ma9ly ,moslems7 on ! :ole are a poor lot1 & z s]vants & foll[]s !y are apt to ill-treat & rob ! up-c\ntry villag]s4 ,b bo? ,baltis 7,moslems7 & ,ladakhis 7,buddhi/s7 are spl5did z coolies if !y are h&l$ prop]ly4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,h9du ,khu%1 etc4 ,) reg>d to ! ,gilgit ,ag5cy1 ( :i* ! native /ates ( ,hunza & ,nag> =m "p1 x mu/ be borne 9 m9d t p]mission to travel is difficult to obta94 ,! c\ntry is poor1 & transport & supplies are h>dly suffici5t = ! use ( ! g>rison & ! fronti] (fic]s1 :o h to be con/antly on t\r4 ,! sev5 di/9ct tribes inhabit+ ! ,ag5cy v>y 9 quality f ! po9t ( view ( ! m\nta9e]4 ,mo/ ( ! %ik>is are spl5did cragsm51 & "s ( ! ,hunza m5 are acqua9t$ ) axe & rope4 ,! ,h9du ,khu%1 ext5d+ f ,hunza ?r\gh ,i%koman1 ,punyal1 ,yas91 ,ghizr & ,*itral to ! ,afghan bord]1 conta9s _m1 almo/ unt\*$1 f9e m\nta9s & glaci]s1 culm9at+ 9 ! wond]ful gr\p ( ,tiri* ,mir 7#be1dbf feet74 ,b ! conditions ( transport & fronti] policy w r5d] access difficult = "s ye>s to come4 ,yet ! region is a mo/ int]e/+ "o & ! sc5]y v v>i$1 = x includes ! wat]-p>t+ betwe5 ! ,indus & ! ,oxus4 ,_m aspects ( ! c\ntry1 bo? physical & human1 vividly recall$ to me memories ( ! ,caucasus4 ,,p]sonal ,,matt]s ,sid5ote3 ,exp5se4 ,! co/ ( a climb+ exp$ition 9 ! ,himalaya entirely dep5ds on ! scale ( prep>ation4 ,if guides are tak51 _! f>es1 outfit & pay w be a heavy item--n less ?an #bej ea*4 ,x is obvi\s t ! fur!r ,engli% /ores h to be transport$ ! m !y w co/ by ! "t ! m\nta9s are rea*$4 ,x is *eap] 9 ! end to get mo/ ( ! /ores at ! la/ hill /ation1 & to pay a little m = !m4 ,! equipm5t = ! high biv\acs1 h[ev]1 mu/ be br\ght out f home4 ,?is w co/1 say #ej4 ,a fir/-class return by ,p4 ,o41 plus f>e to ! end ( ! railway transport1 may be put at #ajj4 ,if ! exp$ition is on a mode/ scale1 & ! climb] has "s k ( ! language & cu/oms ( ! c\ntry1 & c limit himself & 8 s]vants to a doz5 loads1 ! actual exp5se ( travel 9 ! hills is n great4 ,tw5ty p\nds a mon? is a lib]al e/imate = ea* ,european4 ,?is includes ev]y?+3 food1 s]vants & coolies' wages4 ,two amateurs1 contribut+ #ejj 9 all betwe5 !m1 & ) f\r mon?s to sp>e1 ought to be able to put 9 t5 weeks 9 ! hills )\t any difficulty4 ,9 ,ka%mir1 ) ! same all[ance ( "t & money1 !y w\ld only get eight or n9e weeks 9 ! m\nta9s1 & 9 ! ,k>akoram n m ?an a mon?4 7,all e/imates are pre-w>47 ,obvi\sly a big exp$ition ) guides mu/ co/ a great deal m ?an ?is1 b ! am\nt c be calculat$ on ! basis ( ! figures giv5 above4 ,= a l>ge p>ty x w\ld be advisable to br+ out all ! supplies = ! m\nta9s pack$ 9 numb]$ ,vane/a cases4 ,a numb] mu/ be put on e side ( ea* package1 & li/s ( cont5ts to correspond prep>$4 ,^! cases also s]ve z good sub/itutes = *airs & tables4 ,sid5ote3 ,outfit4 ,! days or weeks ( travel to ! foot ( ! ,sn[s require an outfit di/9ct f t requir$ = high m\nta9e]+4 ,! ext5t ( ! travell+ outfit dep5ds prim>ily ^u ! "t & money at ! disposal ( ! individual4 ,a camp-b$ & an #hj-lb4 ,kabul t5t1 ord]$ be=eh& f ! ,elg9 ,mills at ,cawnpore or ?r\gh ! ,a4 ,n4 ,/ores at ,bombay1 is wor? s]i\s consid]ation4 ,p]sonally1 ,i pref] a ,:ymp] t5t1 ) an extra fly to keep ! sun (f & ) ! floor-clo? sewn 94 ,a ,:ymp] t5t c also be us$ by ! cook & foll[]s1 )\t ! d\ble fly & ) a loose floor-clo?2 if ?is is sewn 91 x is apt to get burn$ :5 fires are light$ inside ! t5t on wet ev5+s4 ,on all railway j\rneys1 9 mo/ bungal[s--public & private--& ev5 9 "s hotels1 b$d+ mu/ be c>ri$4 ,a v ?9 cork or hair mattress is a luxury2 ! sleep+-bag does ne>ly z well4 ,two ,jaeg] %eets1 two ,jaeg] blankets1 a pill[ & a c\ple ( pill[-cases1 aid$ by a ba? t[el1 really suffice4 ,! :ole is wrapp$ up & /rapp$ 9 a /rong gr\nd %eet lac$ d[n ! middle1 or 9 a m complicat$ valise sold 9 ,india4 ,?is bundle con/itutes ! bi/ra1 "o coolie-load2 x %\ld be z ra9- & v]m9-pro( z possible4 ,a fold+ ,x-table & *air are almo/ necess>y concessions to ca/e4 ,a sp>e *air %\ld be available if natives ( *air rank are likely to be met4 ,an india-rubb] or canvas ba? is also necess>y = o!r purposes4 ,:5 ba?+ 9 ! op51 z be=e said1 draw]s at lea/ %\ld always be worn out ( respect = native s5tim5t4 ,toilet kit is c>ri$ 9 an enamell$ iron bas9 ) a lea!r cov]1 call$ a *ilam*i4 ,cook+ vessels 7deg*is7 %\ld be ( alum9ium1 b cups & plates & teapot may be enamel-w>e4 ,ei!r hurricane lant]ns 7k]os5e71 or c&le-lant]ns t c /& on a table1 are necess>y 9 camp4 ,all ^! %\ld be obta9$ f ! ,a4 ,n4 or o!r /ores 9 ,india4 ,sid5ote3 ,food4 ,z to food1 ! necess>y t9n$ butt]1 biscuits1 jam & o!r groc]ies c be b\ght at ! la/ hill /ation4 ,9 mo/ places 9 ! hills %eep or goats c be b\ght z requir$4 ,f>!r on y mu/ br+ y\r own live /ock along ) y2 ?is %\ld ensure milk ( sorts4 ,*ick5s & eggs1 rice & native fl\r 7ata71 c be pur*as$ 9 mo/ villages4 ,on ! glaci]s1 cocoa1 *ocolate or tea1 ) plasmon1 are ne$$ = breakfa/1 &1 = ! ev5+1 maggi 7vegetable7 s\ps ) rice4 ,at ! highe/ camps by f> ! be/ dr9k is "s sort ( dri$ malt$ milk prep>ation1 l ,horlick's or ,all5 ,hanbury's diet4 ,! above mu/ be br\ght out f ,engl&1 unless x is f\nd to be obta9able f ! ,a4 ,n4 ,/ores 9 ,bombay4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,high ,camp ,outfit4 ,! t5t %\ld be ! ,mumm]y patt]n if c>ri$ by y\rself1 b may be ,:ymp] patt]n if coolies are /ill available4 ,ice-axes c be l5g!n$ to s]ve z t5t poles1 if desir$1 by means ( a piece ( holl[ bamboo #aj or #ab in*es long :i* is slipp$ ov] ! po9t4 ,! bamboo mu/ be b\nd r\nd ) wire at ! end to prev5t splitt+4 ,9 bad wea!r a small v5tilator to ! t5t is necess>y1 z x may be f\nd impossible to op5 ! door4 ,sleep+-bags c be made ( any ?ickness & w>m? ( goose-d[n4 ,balloon-silk %\ld be sewn und]nea? ! bag1 & br\ght up = at lea/ #ah in*es ov] ! feet4 ,at high altitudes only a primus /ove1 burn+ k]os5e1 w s]ve4 ,absolute alcohol %\ld be c>ri$ to />t ! app>atus1 & a flat /rip ( p]=at$ brass z a w9d-%ield is necess>y4 ,! primus /ove & res]ve ( k]os5e1 9 old petrol t9s1 mu/ n be c>ri$ 9 ! same load ) any food4 ,?is mu/ be specially rememb]$ dur+ ! :ole ( ! exp$ition4 ,x is a good plan to camp n lat] ?an #c p4m41 & to />t melt+ sn[ at once4 ,! fir/ melt+ w probably be drunk tepid4 ,!n ! ev5+ meal1 or r dr9k1 ( s\p or cocoa or malt$ milk mu/ be tak52 foll[+ ?is1 :ile ! /ove is /ill alive1 m sn[ %\ld be melt$ & ! morn+'s dr9k prep>$4 ,if ?is is plac$ 9 l>ge !rmos-bottles inside ! sleep+-bags x w la/1 if unt\*$1 till ! foll[+ aft]noon4 ,x is worse ?an useless to invite fro/-bite by a v e>ly />t4 ,b 9 any case ! "t _c be sp>$ to melt sn[ 9 ! morn+4 ,sid5ote3 ,clo?+4 ,s long z y we> a good #8,cawnpore' pi? helmet 7topi7 no?+ else matt]s mu*4 ,sunburn w prev5t y we>+ too little4 ,"s p pref] a turban4 ,?is consi/s ( ! pug>i or loonghi & ! koolla or conical cap affect$ by ,mohamm$ans & ,europeans1 & r\nd :i* ! pug>ee is worn4 ,on a cold morn+ ! tail ( ! pug>ee c be wrapp$ r\nd ! neck4 ,x is easy to tie--9 a fa%ion4 ,x is 9 "s ways bett] ?an a pi? helmet1 b does n protect ! eyes f gl>e4 ,%orts are v cool = m>*+2 b bew>e ( bli/]s at ! back ( ! knees4 ,a sp9e pad is necess>y 9 ! valleys1 & pleasant at ev5 ! greate/ altitudes4 ,footge> = high climb+ is /ill a vex$ problem4 ,y mu/ h v heavily nail$ boots = ! mora9es4 ,on sn[ ,i h worn a cov]+ ( raw c[hide1 hair outside ov] ! front half ( ! boot4 ,! half sole is made ( /\te/ canvas4 ,! :ole may be g>ni%$ ) a common pair ( ,swiss ice-claws4 ,boots %\ld be l>ge en\gh = two pairs ( socks to be worn4 ,s9ce putties w be inv>iably us$1 /ock+s w only be ne$$ = a *ange 9 ! ev5+4 ,no d\bt = v high "w "s ,pol> footge> w\ld be bett] ?an climb+ boots4#cd ,possibly ski-boots may meet ! difficulty4 ,b a piece ( blanket wrapp$ ov] ! :ole boot & held 9 place ) a l>ge pair ( claws1 or by ! boot-nails z !y we> ?r\gh1 ought to be an effici5t sub/itute4 ,swiss sn[-%oes are h>dly wor? c>ry+1 b on easy slopes at high altitudes !y c be v useful1 & ,i h be5 glad ( !m4 ,ski are probably useless1 = our purpose1 ow+ to transport difficulties4 ,smok$ glasses are only bett] ?an no?+2 ! prop] col\r is some?+ betwe5 yell[ & gre51 su* z ,s9clair's #8,n4,w4,v4' glasses1 or _! l4 ,sid5ote3 ,in/rum5ts4 ,y _c produce a good map )\t sacrific+ mu* "t & en]gy4 ,b ap>t f ?is1 x is useful to "k ! heights ( camps1 etc4 ,= ?is purpose use at y\r camps a boil+-po9t !rmomet] 7hypsomet]71 specially con/ruct$ = high altitudes3 y mu/ obs]ve ! air temp]ature ) a sw+ !rmomet] at ! same "t4 ,also take a l>ge 7#d in*7 ,watk9 m\nta9 an]oid 7,j4 ,hicks1 ,hatton ,g>d571 graduat$ f #ca to #aj in*es4 ,keep x p]man5tly out ( action z soon z y g above #ejjj feet1 & only ?r[ x into ge> :5 tak+ a read+--all[+ n m ?an a few m9utes = x to settle4 ,put x out ( ge> z soon z ! read+ has be5 made4 ,a read+ %\ld be tak5 ) ! ,watk9 :5ev] ! hypsomet] is us$1 z a *eck on bo? in/rum5ts4 ,:5 climb+1 & at ! highe/ camp1 probably only ! ,watk9 w be us$1 s9ce1 ev5 ) absolute alcohol1 an h\r may be sp5t ov] an hypsomet] obs]vation at great heights4 ,! ,watk9 mu/ be read bo? on leav+ camp & on return+4 ,! air temp]ature ought to be tak5 at ea* obs]vation2 b ?is is a ref9em5t4 ,all obs]vations mu/ be imm$iately ent]$ 9 a special notebook ) h\r1 date & place4 ,^! %\ld be work$ out by "s "o else on a return to civilization4 ,! ,indian ,meteorological ,dep>tm5t or ! ,survey at ,dehra ,dun or ! ,royal ,geographical ,society w\ld be ! natural ref]ees4 ,,footnotes3 #bh ,alp9e ,j\rnal1 vol4 xxiii4 p4 #bbc4 #bi ,alp9e ,j\rnal1 vol4 xxv4 p4 #chi4 #cj ,consult ,a4 ,l4 ,mumm's ,five ,mon?s 9 ! ,himalaya 7,arnold74 #ca ,alp9e ,j\rnal1 vol4 xxiii4 p4 #bag et seq41 & map4 #cb ,consult ,alp9e ,j\rnal1 vol4 xxiii4 p4 #bjb1 & maps1 & vol4 xxiv4 p4 #ajg1 & map4 #cc ,alp9e ,j\rnal1 vol4 xxv4 p4 #dhg1 ) map1 & ,neve's ,picturesque ,ka%mir1 *ap4 xii4 #cd ,consult ,appala*ia1 ,oct4 #aiad1 vol4 xiii4 p4 #afj4 ,,*apt] ,,xvi ,,! ,,m\nta9s ,,( ,,norway ,,by ,w4 ,,cecil ,,sl+sby ,conc]n+ ! m\nta9s ( ,norway1 _! geography & ! hi/ory ( _! exploration1 a consid]able am\nt ( publi%$ in=mation is already available = m\nta9e]s3 x is1 !re=e1 unnecess>y to d m ?an give a g5]al idea ( ! m\nta9e]+ pot5tialities ( ! c\ntry1 & ( ! facilities ( travel & provision+4 ,sid5ote3 ,guide-books & ,lit]ature4 ,ba$ek] is excell5t z a g5]al guide1 & a copy %\ld be 9 ! h&s1 & to "s ext5t also 9 ! head1 ( at lea/ "o memb] ( e m\nta9e]+ p>ty4 ,9 addition1 maps %\ld be obta9$ ( ea* di/rict :i* ! climb]s int5d to visit4 ,! ,amts ,k>t]1 price #a krone ea*1 w answ] ?is purpose4 ,!re are no #8,climb]s' ,guides' = ,norway1 ?\gh _m books deal m or less ) its m\nta9s4 ,! great m\nta9 classic is ,norway & its ,glaci]s1 by ,pr(essor ,j4 ,d4 ,=bes4 ,mrs4 ,aubrey le ,blond has dealt solely ) "o gr\p1 ! m\nta9s ( ,lyng5 ,fjord1 9 ,m\nta9e]+ 9 ! ,l& ( ! ,midnight ,sun4 ,?is is ( use to ^? :o wi% to climb betwe5 lat4 #fi & #gj1 b is n ( s]vice 9 ,c5tral ,norway4 ,new ,climbs 9 ,norway1 by ,mr4 ,e4 ,c4 ,opp5heim1 deals also ) c]ta9 individual peaks4 ,!re is an excell5t book 9 ,norsk on ! ,sndmre ,alps1 ne> ,aalesund4 ,norway1 ! ,nor!rn ,playgr\nd1 is ! result ( _m ye>s' exp]i5ce on my own "p1 b b>ely t\*es ! romantic regions ( ,arctic ,norway4 ,! ,alp9e ,j\rnal has _m pap]s by _m au?ors on all p>ts ( ! c\ntry4 ,illu/ration3 ,,norwegian ,,peaks ,,norman ,,collie ,( late ye>s ,norsk m\nta9e]s h be5 v active1 n only 9 ,norway & 9 ! ,alps1 b also 9 f>-(f ,himalaya & ! ,s\!rn ,&es4 ,! ,a>bog ( 8,d5 ,norske ,turi/ ,=5+0 virtually resembles an alp9e j\rnal1 & its illu/rations ( glaci]s & aiguilles are valuable4 ,x has _h = _m ye>s m\nta9e]+ pap]s bo? 9 ,engli% & ,norsk4 ,e "o :o int5ds to climb 9 ,norway %\ld become a memb] ( ?is mo/ useful club4 ,he w h consid]able privileges1 connect$ ) m\nta9 huts1 etc4 ,no m\nta9e]+ qualification is requir$2 m]ely a small subscription4 ,t4 ,b5nett ,sons1 or ,f4 ,bey] 7,t\ri/ ,ag5ts at ,b]g571 z well z ! keep]s ( ! t\ri/ huts1 w enrol memb]s4 ,!re is also an inn] circle1 ! 8,norske ,t9d] ,klub10 ^: m\nta9e]+ qualification is at lea/ z high z t ( ! ,alp9e ,club4 ,a slight k ( ! language is ess5tial4 ,norsk is easi] = nor?-c\ntry folk to acquire ?an = s\!rn]s1 z mu* ( our nor!rn dialect is almo/ id5tical ) ,norsk4 ,z an outcome ( p]haps laudable ultra-patriotism1 great *anges1 :i* 9 ! ma9 lead to a simplification ( ! language1 are be+ made4 ,! natives !mselves dur+ ?is p]iod ( transition app>5tly h no fix$ rules ( spell+1 & a =eign] ne$ n feel uneasy on ! subject4 ,! greate/ difficulty 9 connection ) ?is phase is t--s f> z ,i am aw>e--!re is no ,norsk-,engli% diction>y :i* has adopt$1 or at pres5t c adopt1 ! spell+ mo/ly 9 use4 ,sid5ote3 ,season4 ,z 9 ,switz]l&1 ,july & ,augu/ are ! be/ mon?s = m\nta9e]+ 9 ,norway1 ?\gh1 speak+ g5]ally1 !re is m (t5 settl$ wea!r 9 ,june & ,septemb]4 ,9 "s ye>s1 ! two la/ weeks 9 ,june are p]fect = climb+1 b z 9 ! ,alps aga91 !re is (t5 too mu* sn[ = pleasant m\nta9e]+ be=e ,july4 ,simil>ly1 !re is (t5 ideal wea!r 9 ,septemb]1 & ?\gh ! days are gett+ %ort1 gr& climb+ may be done dur+ ! :ole ( ! mon?4 ,once ! wea!r breaks1 & heavy sn[s fall1 no good climb+ c be done4 ,! pres5ce ( ! ,gulf ,/ream causes a r l>g] ra9fall 9 ,norway ?an 9 ! ,alps4 ,(t5 bad wea!r 9 ! ,alps means excell5t wea!r 9 ,norway1 & vice v]sa4 ,sid5ote3 ,r\tes ( ,access1 ,travel1 etc4 ,travell+ facilities h mu* improv$ dur+ ! la/ few ye>s4 ,! /eamboat s]vice f ,engl& is bett]1 b m rema9s yet to be done 9 ?is respect4 ,! ,nor? ,sea has n improv$1 & nev] w4 ,a quick5$ tra9 s]vice f ,*ri/iania to ,?rondhjem %ort5s ! j\rney up to ! romantic nor? by a good day4 ,! completion ( ! picturesque ,b]g5 to ,*ri/iania railway has revolutioniz$ travel 9 _m ways1 bo? good & bad4 ,! usual r\tes to ,norway are by ,hull or ,newca/le to ,b]g51 ,*ri/iania or ,?rondhjem4 ,doz5s ( public /eam-ya*ts1 "s />t+ f ,london1 run e summ]4 ,"s are ocean l9]s ( a l>ge tonnage1 & !y may occasionally be us$4 ,to #8consult ,cook' is good advice4 ,b]g5 is ! be/ />t+-place4 ,f !nce m\nta9e]s may proce$ direct by /eam] to ,skjold5 at ! head ( ! ,sogne ,fjord1 & f !nce may n[ drive up to ,turtegr1 ! fav\rite c5tre = ! ,horungt9d]--"o ( ! f9e/ ranges 9 ,norway2 or1 & bett] /ill1 !y may g by rail to ,vossevang51 drive to ,gudvang5 & !n take /eam]4 ,or fur!r1 by rail to ,myrdal1 & drive to ,aurl& & take /eam] !re4 ,b]g5 is rea*$ 9 ab\t ?irty-six h\rs f ,hull or ,newca/le4 ,num]\s /eam]s leave !re = e m\nta9e]+ di/rict4 ,?ree days mu/ be all[$ by /eam] f ,b]g5 to ,svolva]1 ! c5tre ( ! ,l(ot5s4 ,ano!r day to ,troms & ,lyng5 ,fjord4 ,x is always advisable to book b]?s on ! nor?-go+ boats a =tnight be=e leav+4 ,?os4 ,cook ,son c d ?is4 ,*ri/iania is a good />t+-po9t1 & ! railway to ,?rondhjem mu* %ort5s ! "t to get to ,arctic ,norway4 ,! m9]al railway1 t]m9at+ at ,n>vik1 ne> ! m\? ( ! ,(ot5 ,fjord1 close to lat4 #fi1 is 9 direct communication ) ,/ockholm1 f :i* a #8,lapl& ,express' runs two or ?ree times a week4 ,by means ( ?is1 ,arctic ,norway c readily be rea*$ by ^? :o pref] railway travell+ to /eamboats--mo/ly )9 ! ,skja]ga>d 7or ,sk]ries74 ,sid5ote3 ,exp5se ,! return f>e1 ,newca/le to ,b]g51 food includ$1 is #f fir/ class4 ,r m by ,wilsons4 ,! co/ ( two m5 = a ?ree weeks' t\r 9 ,c5tral ,norway1 includ+ go+ & return+1 %\ld be f #bj to #be ea*4 ,i h done x = consid]ably less4 ,x may also easily be increas$ to #cj or #ce if ! travell]s are ultra-luxuri\s 9 _! ways & habits4 ,x %\ld nev] be =gott5 t a krone 7#a kr47 is wor? #as4 #a;d4 ,_m novices1 us$ to francs & lire1 =get ?is fact4 ,"o p\nd only produces ab\t #ah krone1 & n #be4 ,a l>ge numb] ( p]sons :o take ya*t+ cruises 9 huge /eamboats1 & :o only l& "h & !re1 ?r[ ab\t _! money 9 a wick$ mann]1 & h mu* spoil$ ! v few natives ) :om !y h come 9 contact4 ,away f ! haunts ( ! t\ri/ horde1 on ! we/ coa/1 prices are /ill v reasonable4 ,tips mu/ n be giv5 on q s g5]\s a scale z 9 ! ,alps4 7,^! prices are pre-w>47 ,sid5ote3 ,equipm5t4 ,= camp life excell5t provisions are obta9able 9 ,*ri/iania1 ,?rondhjem & ,b]g51 & by gett+ !m 9 ! c\ntry ! worry ( pass+ ! ,cu/oms1 :i* is n v s]i\s1 is avoid$4 ,exp]i5ce %[s t bacon & porridge =m a great /&-by = a camp breakfa/4 ,fir/-rate sides ( ,york%ire bacon & good oatmeal c be b\ght 9 ! ?ree above-nam$ cities4 ,z t9n$ meats1 useful z !y are1 h _! limitations1 x is well to pur*ase a leg or two ( mutton :5ev] possible4 ,!re is no d\bt at all t "o c climb inf9itely bett] :5 =tifi$ by fre%1 r ?an by t9n$1 meats4 ,a tr\t-rod1 & ! ability to use x effici5tly1 is (t5 mo/ s]viceable any:]e 9 ,norway1 & 9 ! ,l(ot5s a few sea-fi%+ appliances frequ5tly add a welcome *ange to camp meals4 ,"o result ( ! great cod fi%]y 9 ! ,f> ,nor? is t excell5t ,fr5* & ,spani% w9es are procurable at ! po/+ /ations at reasonable prices 9 ,arctic ,norway4 ,speak+ g5]ally1 ! f>!r nor? "o goes ! m com=table are ! /eam]s1 & c]ta9ly ! m int]e/+ is ! company met )4 ,a%ore1 ! hospitality :i* _m ( u h met ) leaves beh9d mo/ happy memories4 ,) reg>d to ! equipm5t requisite1 g5]ally speak+ :at is suitable = ,switz]l& is fit = ,norway4 ,x mu/1 h[ev]1 be tak5 = grant$ t1 except 9 ,*ri/iania1 & possibly to "s ext5t n[ 9 ,b]g51 no alp9e nails1 ice-axes1 goggles1 alp9e rope1 etc41 are procurable4 ,if extra boots are n tak51 x is also v desirable to take an ample supply ( sp>e nails or screws4 ,) ^! mu* c be add$ to ! security ( a p>ty1 by fitt+ up a casual port] or two ) nails ( a k9d :i* he has probably nev] se5 be=e4 ,he may at fir/ object1 b 9 ! c\rse ( ! fir/ day on ! sn[s he w he>tily approve1 unless he may happ5 to come ^u !--n uncommon--highly poli%$ ro*es m\tonnes ( gneiss4 ,no long] is x necess>y to take t5ts into ,jotunheim or else:]e 9 ,c5tral ,norway1 z com=table inns & m\nta9 huts are to be f\nd "h1 !re & ev]y:]e4 ,9 ,arctic ,norway x is o!rwise4 ,9 _m places n only are t5ts a luxury b also a necessity1 unless m\nta9e]s h ! use ( a ya*t :]e !y c sleep1 or unless !y *>t] a small /eamboat4 ,ev5 !n x is advisable to h t5ts1 z n[ & !n ! "q ( safe an*orage is a difficult "o4 ,n[adays ! well-to-d m]*ants 9 ,l(ot51 & also on ! ma9l&1 v (t5 possess motor-boats1 :i* c be hir$ to take m\nta9e]s to remote fjords toge!r ) _! t5ts4 ,9 ,sc&9avia x is a safe maxim to hold t ! f>!r nor? "o goes ! m num]\s are ! mosquitoes4 ,h5ce mosquito nets %\ld always be tak5 nor? ( ,?rondhjem4 ,mosquitoes1 =tunately1 are n always 9 evid5ce ev5 9 hot summ]s4 ,sid5ote3 ,guides4 ,! "q ( guides is a difficult "o4 ,at lea/ #ij p] c5t ( ! be/ climb+ 9 ,norway has be5 done )\t !m1 solely because !y 7 non-exi/5t :5 mo/ ne$$4 ,!re are a few excell5t m51 exp]i5c$ alike on difficult glaci]s1 on /eep sn[ slopes & on rocks ( ! ,*amonix ,aiguille type1 b _! numb] is v limit$4 ,sev]al are to be met ) 9 v>i\s places 9 ! ,jotun ,fjelde1 :i* include ! ,horungt9d]4 ,9 ! neighb\rhood ( ! ,ju/$als-brae1 :i* is by f> ! l>ge/ sn[ field 9 ,cont95tal ,europe1 & ov] #djj squ>e miles 9 ext5t1 !re are naturally a few good icem5 able & will+ to tackle ! v complex glaci] problems4 ,!y c be f\nd at ,fja]l&1 9 ! valley ( ,ju/$al1 at ,/ryn1 ,old5 & ,lo51 & probably also by n[ 9 ,/>dal & ,jl/]4 ,at or ne> ie on ! ,hjrund ,fjord1 two or ?ree v fair guides may be f\nd = ! ,sndmre ,alps4 ,^! m5 h be5 tra9$ m or less by ,briti% m\nta9e]s4 ,! same may be said = ,romsdal1 ,eikisdal1 z well z = ,sundal 9 ,nordmre1 :]e 9 ! adjac5t ,troldheim are a few f9e glaci]s & int]e/+ peaks ( gneiss4 ,at ! same "t1 x is true t 9 e m\nta9 valley 9 ,c5tral ,norway !re is at lea/ "o excell5t cragsman to be f\nd1 :o is inv>iably call$ to rescue crag-fa/ %eep or goats4 ,^! m51 %od 9 snaukopp]1 or s(t-sol$ %oes1 climb fe>lessly on ! smoo? glaciat$ crags ( gneiss1 & make excell5t guides s f> z rock climb+ is conc]n$4 ,9 ,norway1 :i* is at ! same "t ! mo/ democratic & ! mo/ cons]vative c\ntry 9 ,europe1 ! guides & port]s are (t5 mu* bett] educat$ ?an _! fell[s 9 ,switz]l&1 & "k h[ to read a map intellig5tly4 ,!y are frequ5tly l&[n]s on a mod]ate scale1 & consid] t !y conf] a fav\r by act+ z guides4 ,!y w n use ! prefix #8,mr4' or #8,h]r'2 & :y %\ld !y8 ,frequ5tly !y c trace _! ance/ry back to ! ,vik+ ,age1 & ev5 occasionally to ! 8,e>ly ,k+s ( ,norway40 ,?\gh g5]ally v nice fell[s1 !y are fully consci\s ( ! monet>y value ( _! s]vices1 i4e4 :5 !y are really capable m54 ,!y h n yet le>n$ to c>ry z mu* z ! ,swiss4 ,z ! summ] is %ort1 !re is m ?an en\gh "w to occupy ! :ole manhood ( any p>ticul> di/rict on ! l& )\t "q ( m\nta9s4 ,?is condition has become ( late ye>s mu* aggravat$ by ! enorm\s emigration to ,canada & ! ,unit$ ,/ates4 ,)9 ! ,arctic circle1 among/ ! hundr$ & tw5ty miles ( aiguilles ( gabbro & granite 9 ! ,l(ot5 ,isl&s1 !re are no real m\nta9 guides4 ,?is is ! case1 too1 on ! :ole ma9l& ( ,norway )9 ! magic circle1 :e!r x be among/ ! aiguilles ( ,lyng5 ,fjord or ! weird truncat$ pyramids ( gneiss along ! coa/1 ?\gh ev5 "h a few good cragsm5 are to be f\nd4 ,we mu/ to "s ext5t make an exception 9 ! case ( ! nomad ,lapps :o w&] ) _! re9de] across ! glaci]s4 ,! gallant ,fr5* explor] ( ! sn[ fields & glaci]s along ! ,sw$i% bord]1 ,monsieur ,*>les ,rabot1 made use ( "s ( ^! m51 & 9 8 int]e/+ book1 ,au ,cap ,nord1 has record$ 8 exp]i5ces4 ,sid5ote3 ,g5]al ,topography & ,/ructure4 ,?\gh ,norway is #aajj miles 9 l5g?1 ! m\nta9s :i* af=d scope = indulg+ 9 ! sport ( m\nta9e]+ are conf9$ betwe5 lat4 #fj & #gj1 i4e4 f ! glaci]s ( ! ,folgefond to ! nor? po9t ( ! p59sula ( ,lyng5 ,fjord4 ,m or less !y are gr\ps :]e gabbro has be5 upheav$ ?r\gh ! surr\nd+ silurian /rata1 granite or gneiss4 ,^! gr\ps are unconnect$ save by relatively un9t]e/+ roll+ fjelde1 ! haunt ( ! wild re9de] & its enemy ! lynx4 ,?\gh !re is z good climb+ to be f\nd 9 ,norway z 9 ! ,alps1 no m\nta9 atta9s ! height ( #ijjj feet1 & consequ5tly !re is no cont9u\s ice /ream fall+ s f> z t f ! summit ( ,mont ,blanc to ! sn\t ( ! ,glaci] des ,bossons4 ,b !re are _m cont9u\s icefalls ( ov] #ejjj feet1 & "s glaci]s :i* desc5d ov] #fjjj feet ne>ly to ! fjords bel[4 ,9 _m cases1 z ^! ice /reams are exceptionally /eep & are hemm$ 9 by /raight-cut m\nta9 walls ( gneiss1 ! ice is m compress$1 h>d] & ( a deep] blue col\r ?an :at "o sees 9 ,switz]l&4 ,notably is ?is ! case 9 ! glaci]s ( ! ,ju/$als-brae4 ,!re are also simil> conditions 9 ,lyng5 ,fjord 9 ,arctic ,norway1 e4g4 9 ! case ( ! noble ,=nsbrae1 desc5d+ f ,gjkkev>re--! ,mont ,blanc ( ! ,nor?4 ,! f9e/ range 9 ,c5tral ,norway is t ( ! ,horungt9d] & portion ( ! ,jotun ,fjelde4 ,its dom9at+ po9t is ,skaga/l/9d4 ,?is range has ! advantages1 & likewise possibly ! disadvantages1 ( possess+ a well-recogniz$ c5tre at ,turtegr1 :i*1 f a picturesque po9t ( view1 is at ! wrong side ( ! range4 ,! _m f9e peaks are n[adays be+ work$ out ) a p]si/5cy wor?y ( ,wasdale ,head or ,p5-y-,pass4 ,^? ( u :o "k ! ,cool9 9 ,skye well1 "k :at gr& climb+ is sugge/$ by ! ^w #8gabbro1' ! =mation ( ! ,horungt9d]4 ,9 sev]al o!r di/ricts gabbro spires give ! tone to ! picture & af=d magnific5t climb+ to ! m\nta9e]4 ,notably is ?is ! case 9 ,sndmre1 on ea* side ( ! ,hjrund ,fjord1 :]e "s lovely m\nta9s1 su* z ,slog51 ba! _! feet 9 ! sea4 ,un=tunately1 !y frequ5tly h _! heads b\nd up ) fleecy cl\ds1 ow+ to _! proximity to ! ,gulf ,/ream & to nature's cond5s]s 9 ! =m ( huge sn[ fields4 ,! #abj miles' l5g? ( ! ,l(ot5 ,isl&s are also built up ( granite & gabbro4 ,! fir/ view ( ^! isl&s gives a s5sation ( exaltation & joy4 ,& _! col\r6 ,x is ! same =mation z ! ,cool91 & ! same influ5ces are at "w4 ,! ,gulf ,/ream1 t r>e & subtle pa9t]1 simply t\*es ! m\nta9s ) its moi/ure-lad5 breezes1 &1 help$ by ! sun1 a ri*ness & delicacy ( t9t appe>s :i* is unkn[n else:]e 9 ,europe4 ,x lacks only ! contra/ :i* ! ,cool9 possess ( ! *ang+ col\r ( hea!r4 ,! m\nta9s ( ! ,lyng5 ,p59sula1 a gr& region ( rugg$ aiguilles & huge glaci]s1 :i* /ream d[n seaw>ds f1 9 "s cases1 a height ( ov] #fjjj feet1 all consi/ ( gabbro4 ,b x mu/ n be conclud$ t ! only good climb+ is conf9$ to m\nta9s ( ?is ord]4 ,z 9 ! ,alps1 granite & gneiss hold _! own1 & v _m beautiful m\nta9s af=d arte & face climb+ ( exceptional int]e/4 ,9 ,romsdal1 ,eikisdal & ,troldheim1 ! latt] until rec5tly a mu* neglect$ di/rict1 !re is gr& sport to be _h1 n only on rocks b on /eep & difficult glaci]s z well4 ,nor? ( ,?rondhjem are ! ,oxt9d]4 ,?\gh high & girt ab\t _! lo9s ) glaci]s1 !y are1 x is said1 disappo9t+4 ,! glaci] region ( ,sv>tis5 & a few rock peaks s\? ( ,bod1 b yet )9 ! ,arctic circle1 des]ve m detail$ att5tion f our c\ntrym5 ?an !y h yet met )4 ,on ! ma9l&1 nor? ( ,bod & ! ,salt5 ,fjord b s\? ( ! ,(ot5 ,fjord1 are "s ( ! mo/ beautiful & "s ( ! mo/ fi5di%-look+ rock m\nta9s conceivable 9 a m\nta9e]'s nightm>e4 ,9 ! fir/ category is ! ,/r&aat9d1 :i* has a mo/ lovely outl9e1 & is also a difficult m\nta9 to asc5d4 ,n f> away are two hide\s & truncat$ obelisks4 ,^! are 9 ,s\? ,fold5 ,fjord4 ,at ! head ( ?is fjord1 & on & )9 ! ,sw$i% fronti]1 !re is a gr& glaci] region4 ,sixty-five miles f>!r nor? ! ,/$t9d1 or ,anvil peak1 a monoli? ) "o diagonal crack across ! face1 rises #ebjj feet out ( ! sea4 ,probably x is ! mo/ hide\s m\nta9 mon/] on our planet4 ,yet !re are only #ae feet ( especial difficulty to be cross$ :5 ! asc5t is made f ! back4 ,true1 b ^! #ae feet are highly s5sational6 ,!re are /ill left unclimb$ 9 ?is region o!r gruesome peaks :i* await m\nta9e]s capable ( tak+ ! initiative4 ,! glaci]s ( ,fro/is5 & a few ( ! high peaks ris+ out ( ?is sn[ field h be5 fairly well explor$1 b z yet little in=mation has be5 giv5 u on ! subject4 ,up to comp>atively rec5t ye>s !re 0 a /range ignorance ab\t ! high] m\nta9s 9 ,norway1 & great unc]ta9ty z to :i* 0 ! highe/4 ,once ^u a "t ,sulitelma held ! hon\r4 ,snehaettan also _h a %ort reign4 ,9 an old atlas ( m9e1 ,skaga/l/9d is t]m$ 8! culm9at+ po9t ( ,sc&9avia40 ,!n came ! plea = ,galdhpigg52 & n _m ye>s ago a claim 0 put 9 = ,knut%ult9d1 :i* 0 nev] look$ ^u s]i\sly4 ,= a good _m ye>s1 h[ev]1 ,galdhpigg5 has be5 recogniz$ z ! k+1 ?\gh its neighb\r1 ,glitt]t9d1 0 only tw5ty odd feet l[]4 ,! summit ( ! =m] consi/s ( a n>r[ rock ridge t]m9at+ abruptly 9 a precipice at "o end1 :i* !re=e _c hold mu* sn[4 ,! latt] is a sn[ dome4 ,i po9t$ out _m ye>s ago ! probability t aft] two or ?ree ye>s ( unusually heavy sn[s ! sn[ dome w\ld rise1 t ,glitt]t9d w\ld be rais$ to ! ?rone1 & ,galdhpigg5 be depos$4 ,?is has come to pass1 & n[ ,glitt]t9d--a mu* dull] m\nta9 ?an its rival--is 8! culm9at+ po9t ( ,sc&9avia40 ,x may & ought to be depos$ ere long4 ,sid5ote3 ,local ,conditions4 ,9 bo? ,c5tral & ,arctic ,norway !re are "s conditions :i* d n prevail 9 ! ,alps4 ,! long nightless days h bo? _! advantages & _! disadvantages4 ,9 ,arctic ,norway !re is a topsy-turvyness to :i* we are unaccu/om$4 ,"o nev] kn[s :5 to g to b$1 &1 z ! sn[ does n get s s(t z 9 ,c5tral ,norway1 !re is a great temptation to delay dep>ture & wa/e mu* "t on ! way4 ,!re is naturally a feel+ ( romance 9 arriv+ on ! summit ( a difficult m\nta9 a few m9utes be=e midnight1 & ( wat*+ ! sun roll along sev]al degrees above ! m\nta9 horizon4 ,/ill1 = ! sake ( ! sub-consci\s ma*9]y ( ! body1 x is be/ to obs]ve ! usual h\rs = "w & = sleep4 ,9 ,c5tral ,norway ,i h se5 ! sun bo? set & rise aga9 a c\ple ( h\rs lat] :ile ,i 0 trav]s+ a difficult m\nta9 ridge4 ,b !re is an enorm\s diff]5ce betwe5 ! l5g? ( days 9 ! end ( ,june or ,july & t 9 ! middle ( ,augu/4 ,occasionally m\nta9e]s :o d n recognize ?is fact get b5ight$4 ,9 ,c5tral ,norway ! sn[s become s(t by #i a4m41 ?\gh n to ! same ext5t z 9 ! ,alps4 ,/ill1 an e>ly />t is desirable :5 a f9e exp$ition is contemplat$4 ,especially is ?is ! case :5 cross+ ! ,ju/$als-brae or o!r huge sn[ fields4 ,avalan*es fall z !y d 9 ! ,alps1 b r>ely betwe5 ! end ( ,june & ! beg9n+ ( ,septemb]1 & /ones1 iceb\nd at night1 are loos5$ by ! sun 9 ! morn+1 & come toppl+ d[n 9 ! or?odox mann]1 & may1 p]*ance1 be a dang] to ! unw>y4 ,9 fact1 ! ord9>y dang]s associat$ ) high m\nta9s exi/ equally 9 ,norway4 ,9 "s regions magnetic rocks occur1 & !n ! compass is ( no use4 ,:]e ?is is ! case1 & mi/s come on1 & !re is no w9d to indicate ! c>d9al po9ts1 ! int]e/ ( ! exp$ition may unexpect$ly be increas$4 ,ice1 h>d blue ice1 is mu* m (t5 enc\nt]$ on ! ,norwegian glaci]s & gullies ?an 9 ! ,alps4 ,on v /eep sn[ slopes & glaci]s 9 ! ,f> ,nor? "o frequ5tly comes ^u a deep squ>e-sid$ groove 9 ! sn[2 at ! top ( ! slope x may be #ab feet wide & #d feet deep4 ,?is imp]ceptibly wid5s1 dur+ a desc5t ( betwe5 #aejj & #bjjj feet1 to a groove1 /ill squ>e-sid$ b n[ #bj to #be feet 9 wid? & #g or #h feet deep4 ,su* grooves are mo/ difficult to cross1 & on "o memorable exp$ition on ,rult51 :5 victory 0 almo/ assur$1 ! p>ty 0 driv5 back by ! app>5t dang] ( mak+ su* a cross+4 ,^! grooves %[ no sign ( ! "w ( fall+ /ones or rocks1 b are probably1 at an e>li] p]iod ( ! ye>1 caus$ by wat]4 ,i h nev] met simil> grooves 9 ,c5tral ,norway1 nor yet 9 ! ,alps4 ,aft] a long spell ( f9e wea!r dur+ ! nightless days ( ! summ] mon?s1 ! glaci]s may become v dang]\s by reason ( a peculi>ity 9 ! "* ( _! crevasses4 ,! l>g] & ! flatt] ! glaci]1 ! great] ! dang]4 ,?is is especially ! case on ! ,ju/$als-brae1 ?\gh by no means conf9$ to t region4 ,! condition is caus$1 9 my belief1 pr9cipally by ! comp>atively l[ altitude ( ! sun above ! horizon4 ,! rays ( ! sun are direct$ m horizontally ^u ! sn[1 & = a consid]ably l>g] numb] ( h\rs dur+ ! long days 9 ,norway ?an is ! case 9 ! ,alps4 ,?is approximation to horizontality causes an abnormal melt+ p[] to be direct$ to ! "u side ( ! sn[ eaves & ( ! bridges ( op5 crevasses4 ,especially is ?is ! case :5 ^! eaves are atta*$ & froz5 to ! nor? or nor!rly walls ( ! crevasses4 ,"u ^! conditions crevasses ( #be or #cj feet 9 wid? may only h ! appe>ance ( a wid? ( #b or #c feet4 ,n only ?is1 b !y (t5 h cle>-cut & well-def9$ edges & n jagg$ l9es4 ,on ! surface !re may be little or no indication ( ! hidd5 dang]s :i* are %ield$ f view4 ,! int]e/ 9 hot seasons may be mu* increas$ by ! pres5ce ( #8p9k sn[1' ,protococcus nivalis1 :i* has be5 kn[n to lie 9 pat*es cov]+ sev]al acres4 ,9 ,norway !re are sev]al great sn[ fields1 ,gre5l&s 9 m9iature4 ,hill & dale on ^! sn[y upl&s are alike cov]$ ) glaci]1 & only "h & !re rocky islets or nunataks appe>1 & usually z alp9e g>d5s4 ,9 ne>ly all cases ! rock bel[ ! ice %eet is gneiss1 & if ! glaci]s 7 to disappe>1 roll+ fjelde1 or r\nd$ hog-back$ peakless m\nta9s #ejjj to ne>ly #gjjj feet 9 height1 w\ld appe>4 ,su* sn[ fields are r>e 9 ! ,alps2 consequ5tly ,briti% m\nta9e]s h little exp]i5ce1 on a l>ge scale1 ( glaci]s :i* re/ on broad1 g5tly slop+ ridges1 & :i* sl[ly desc5d1 ma9ta9+ connection at ! same "t ) glaci]s on ei!r side mov+ ne>ly 9 ! same direction4 ,! process is natural en\gh4 ,! results are m or less novel & appall+4 ,on ! ridges gravitation is at "w1 & ! ice moves onw>ds 9 ?ree directions3 d[n ! ma9 axis ( ! ridge & d[nw>ds on ea* side4 ,9 ye>s ( little sn[1 consequ5tly1 scores ( quadrangul> masses ( nv & ice are left1 on e side ( :i* are deep squ>e-wall$ crevasses4 ,woe betide ! p>ty :i* desc5ds su* a ridge )\t us+ ! greate/ c>e4 ,few m5 may h exp]i5c$ ^! conditions1 b ^? :o h w always reta9 a lively memory ( !m4 ,x is n necess>y to repeat1 to m\nta9e]s1 t mo/ ,engli%m5 :o h climb$ 9 ,norway return aga9 & aga91 to a c\ntry :i* has /ill mu* ( ! romance ( exploration1 &1 = !m1 ! sympa!tic int]e/ ( an hi/orical connection ) _! racial consci\sness4 ,i myself l to believe t we1 :o take our pleasures on ! m\nta9s--& ! m grisly ^! m\nta9s are ! bett] we l !m6--h inh]it$ ! passion f our #8,norsk ance/ry1' :o1 z we ga!r f an old ,saga1 indulg$ 9 ! sport ( cliff climb+ ne>ly "o ?\s& ye>s ago4 ,,*apt] ,,xvii ,,! ,,s\!rn ,,alps ,,( ,,new ,,zeal& ,,by ,,malcolm ,,ross ,:ile di/ance l5ds en*antm5t1 x also1 n infrequ5tly1 pres5ts difficulties4 ,! m\nta9e]1 probably m ?an mo/ p1 realizes ?is z1 beside 8 w9t] fire 9 ,engl&1 he sees ?r\gh ! smoke-r+s ( ev5+ pipes allur+ visions ( ! p9e-clad ,rockies1 ( ! lonely ,caucasus1 ( ! giant ,himalaya1 ( ! high ,&es & ( ! f>-di/ant ,s\!rn ,alps4 ,mo/ climb]s are also work]s1 & x is ! "t tak5 & ! exp5se ( ! j\rney t no d\bt give !m pause :5 !y ?9k ( ! di/ant ranges2 b m p>ticul>ly ( ! ,himalaya or ! ,new ,zeal& ,alps4 ,9 reg>d to ! latt]1 h[ev]1 ! exp$ition ne$ n be an exp5sive "o4 ,! return passage f ,london to ,new ,zeal& by ! big direct l9]s is n co/ly4 ,sid5ote3 ,r\tes1 etc4 ,a good s]vice is run by ! ,new ,zeal& ,%ipp+ ,company & ! ,%aw ,savill ,albion ,company4 ,! voyage out is by ! ,cape ( ,good ,hope & ! return by ,cape ,horn4 ,! return passages by ! alt]native & m int]e/+ r\te betwe5 ,london & ,lyttelton co/ #acb fir/ class & #ge1 #ajs4 second class4 ,! ,briti% /eam]s on ?is r\te belong to ! ,p4 ,o4 ,company & ! ,ori5t ,company4 ,! passage occupies ab\t six weeks1 b x c be %ort5$ by a week by cross+ ! ,engli% ,*annel1 tak+ tra9 across ,france & jo9+ ! /eam] at ,m>seilles4 ,! advantage ( ?is r\te is t we are (t5 )9 sight ( int]e/+ l&s & call at q a numb] ( ports--,gibralt>1 ,m>seilles1 ,port ,said1 ,suez1 ,ad51 ,ceylon1 ,p]?1 ,adelaide1 ,melb\rne & ,sydney4 ,at ! s\!rn end ( ! j\rney "t c be sav$ by tak+ tra9 f ,adelaide to ,melb\rne1 & !nce a ,union ,company's /eam] to ! ,bluff1 :i* is ! s\!rnmo/ port 9 ,new ,zeal&4 ,! ,new ,zeal& /eam]s on ?is r\te may n1 h[ev]1 be consid]$ s good z ^? runn+ f ,sydney to ,auckl& or ,well+ton1 & ! passage to ! ,bluff is g5]ally a cold] & m /ormy "o ?an t f ,sydney 9 ! m nor!rn latitude4 ,besides1 ,sydney1 ) its *>m+ h>b\r1 is well wor? see+1 & "t c /ill be sav$ by tak+ tra9 "r ?r\gh f ,adelaide to ,sydney4 ,/ill quick] ?\gh slightly m exp5sive r\tes are ^? across ! ,atlantic via ,san ,francisco or ,vanc\v]4 ,a *ange ( sc5e is provid$ by ei!r ( ^! r\tes1 :i* avoid ! heat ( ! ,r$ ,sea & ! cold ( ! m s\!rn r\te tak5 by ! direct /eam]s4 ,ano!r alt]native w\ld be to g ,ea/ & return by ! ,we/]n l9e1 ?us circumnavigat+ ! globe2 & v>iations 9 ! latt] r\te c be made by :i* ,java1 ,*9a & ,japan c be visit$4 ,yet a fur!r *oice w be op5$ up ) ! completion ( ! ,panama ,canal4 ,my own pref]5ce w\ld be to take a return ticket by ,p4 ,o4 /eam] betwe5 ,m>seilles & ,adelaide1 travel by tra9 f ! latt] port to ,sydney1 & f ,sydney proce$ direct to ,well+ton1 ,new ,zeal&1 by "o ( ! ,union ,company's /eam]s4 ,at ,well+ton full p>ticul>s reg>d+ ! *>ges en r\te to ,m\nt ,cook & ! co/ ( guides & accommodation c be obta9$ f ! ,t\ri/ ,dep>tm5t or f ! writ] ( ?is *apt]1 :o w will+ly place at ! disposal ( any climb] any in=mation & advice t he c give4 ,sid5ote3 ,local ,conditions1 ,guides1 etc4 ,at ,m\nt ,cook !re is an accommodation h\se1 "u ,gov]nm5t control1 & all *>ges are reasonable4 ,! be/ guides are s]vants ( ! ,gov]nm5t4 ,_! s]vices1 h[ev]1 may n always be available :5 mo/ want$1 & a man w d bett]1 if he c af=d x & desires x1 to br+ ) him 8 own guide4 ,! ideal p>ty w\ld be "o ( ?ree fir/-rate amateurs1 or two amateurs & a good guide1 us$ to bo? rock & ice "w4 ,x w\ld be practically indep5d5t ( local assi/ance1 & ready to seize all opportunities ( f9e wea!r to d fir/-class climbs or new exp$itions4 ,! local guides w\ld will+ly co-op]ate ) or advise su* a p>ty reg>d+ local conditions1 wea!r1 r\tes1 etc4 ,! wea!r 9 ,new ,zeal&1 z 9 all m\nta9\s c\ntries1 plays an important "p 9 su* exp$itions1 & ! climb] ( high peaks w be well advis$ to keep 8 eye on ! dread$ nor?-we/]1 :i* sweeps across ! ,pacific ,ocean & assails ! beetl+ crags & sn[y summits ( ! great range ) a =ce & fury :i* x is difficult successfully to combat4 ,our m\nta9s1 ?\gh n s high z ^? ( ! ,european ,alps1 are practically ! same height f a m\nta9e]+ po9t ( view1 because 9 ,new ,zeal& ! sn[l9e is s mu* l[] & ! ranges rise directly f l[] elevations ?an !y d 9 ,switz]l&4 ,our alp9e *a9 seems to be m heavily glaciat$ & ! rocks m friable ?an is ! case 9 ,europe4 ,our glaci]s are c]ta9ly l>g]1 & ! mora9es ^u & beside !m su* z to tax ! pati5ce if n ! endurance ( ! climb] unus$ to !m4 ,! sc5]y is gr& f ! purely alp9e po9t ( view1 b "o us$ to ,swiss m\nta9s w miss ! well-=m$ road1 ! f9e hotels & ! high m\nta9 hut1 to say no?+ ( ! m\nta9 railway1 :i* we mu/ hope may nev] become ! vogue 9 ,new ,zeal&4 ,on ! we/ coa/ ! sc5]y is m v>i$ ?an on ! ea/1 because ( ! =e/ t clo!s ! l[] ,alps2 b ! wea!r is wett]1 & ! d5se vegetation (t5 a b> or at lea/ a h9drance to ! atta9m5t ( a high biv\ac4 ,! difficulty is acc5tuat$ :5 "o has to c>ry "o's own t5t & provisions on "o's own back1 al?\gh !re is n n[adays ! same difficulty 9 obta9+ port]s :i* ! pione]s _h to put up )4 ,su* huts z !re are1 are l[ d[n 9 ! valleys2 & if new gr\nd is to be brok51 ! exp$ition %\ld come provid$ ) its own t5ts & sleep+-bags1 & be prep>$ (t5 to sp5d ! night "u ! m or less fri5dly %elt] ( "s deta*$ rock4 ,to ! m\nta9e]1 h[ev]1 ! disp5s+ ) su* luxuries w only add to ! joy ( 8 new climbs & t5d to make him m fully appreciate ! luxuries ( civilization :51 ) 8 peak 9 8 pocket1 he returns aga9 to ! l[] altitudes4 ,f ! te*nical po9t ( view ! climb+ is v mu* l :at x is 9 ,switz]l&2 b ! /range climb] w\ld always d well to rememb] t ! dang]s f avalan*es & fall+ rocks are n s accurately mapp$ out z !y are 9 ranges t h be5 climb$ by sev]al g5]ations ( exp]i5c$ m\nta9e]s4 ,:ile ! new field w c]ta9ly prove fasc9at+ f ! climb]'s po9t ( view1 x is also wor? rememb]+ t x ab\nds 9 objects ( int]e/ to ! geologi/1 ! botani/ & ! zoologi/4 ,! glaci]s are among ! l>ge/ & mo/ int]e/+ 9 ! _w2 ! flora is ( ! mo/ div]sifi$ "*2 & ! fauna1 ?\gh limit$1 is curi\s4 ,sid5ote3 ,topography & ,/ructure4 ,l>ge z ! glaci] sy/em is at ! pres5t day1 x is small z comp>$ ) ! ext5t ( ! glaci]s :i* desc5d$ f> d[n ! pla9s 9 ! ,plei/oc5e p]iod4 ,! greate/ accumulation ( ice & sn[ lies at ! head ( ! ,tasman & ,mur*ison glaci]s1 on ! ea/]n side ( ! ma9 range ( ! ,alps4 ,! ,muell]1 ! ,hook] & ! ,godley glaci]s1 on ! same side1 are1 h[ev]1 likewise ( l>ge ext5t2 :ile on ! we/]n side ( ! ,m\nt ,cook ,range !re are o!r glaci]s ( l>ge size1 "o ( :i*--! ,franz ,josef glaci]--desc5ds to )9 ab\t #fjj feet ( ! sea1 & has beautiful tree-f]ns1 & a vegetation :i* appe>s almo/ semi-tropical1 gr[+ )9 a few y>ds ( its t]m9al face4 ,"o peculi> feature ( ! ,s\!rn ,alps is ! abs5ce ( any numb] ( l[ sub-alp9e passes ov] ! ma9 range4 ,! pr9cipal l[ passes are ! ,haa/ ,pass1 lead+ f ,lake ,wanaka to ! we/ coa/2 ! ,hurunui ,pass1 divid+ ! s\rces ( ! riv] ( t "n2 & ,ar?ur's ,pass1 ov] #cjjj feet high1 across :i* ! coa* runs ?r\gh ! wond]ful sc5]y ( ! ,otira ,gorge to ,hokitika & ,greym\?4 ,! fir/ po9t to be notic$ 9 reg>d to ! c5tral *a9 is t x does n pres5t an unbrok5 l9e ( wat]%$1 b r a s]ies ( peaks & brok5 ridges1 sep>at$ f ea* o!r by deep rav9es1 & = ! mo/ "p n easy ( access4 ,! clue to ?is sy/em ( rav9es & ridges is to be f\nd 9 ! fact t ! ,palozoic rocks =m+ ! ma9 range h be5 at a v e>ly p]iod subject$ to ext5sive pressure1 ! effect ( :i* has be5 to crumple !m up into huge folds1 ! upp] portions ( :i* h be5 remov$1 leav+ ! rema9+ portions ( ! /rata /&+ up on edge1 ei!r 9 a v]tical position or at v /eep incl9ations4 ,! /rike ( ! b$s diff]s f ! g5]al direction ( ! divid+ range by #cc4 ,! rule :i* has be5 f\nd to prevail 9 o!r m\nta9 *a9s ( simil> =mation appe>s also to hold good 9 ! c5tral *a9--viz41 t ! greate/ am\nt ( d5udation has tak5 place along ! orig9al ridges1 :i* are n[ occupi$ by valleys1 :il/ ! exi/+ peaks & ridges are on ! sites ( =m] depressions4 ,! next feature to be notic$ is ! jo9t$ /ructure ( ! rocks4 ,al?\gh ! jo9ts cross ea* o!r 9 all directions1 app>5tly )\t ord]1 !re are two prevail+ sy/ems ( jo9ts :i* h an important influ5ce on ! configuration ( ! surface4 ,^! are3 ,fir/1 a sy/em ( v]tical cross-jo9ts at "r angles to ! /ratification1 & runn+ 9 unbrok5 l9es = great di/ances1 ) su* regul>ity t !y might easily be mi/ak5 = planes ( /ratification 7 x n = ! frequ5t occurr5ce ( b$s ( trap-rock1 ! outcrop ( :i* m>ks unmi/akably ! true b$d+2 secondly1 a sy/em ( jo9ts1 m or less incl9$ to ! horizon1 n runn+ 9 p>allel planes1 b arrang$ 9 a s]ies ( curves radiat+ f a common c5tre4 ,! effect ( ?is sy/em ( jo9t+1 comb9$ ) ! /rike ( ! b$s1 or ! direction ( ! axis ( fold+1 is to produce two di/9ct sy/ems ( valleys 9 ! c5tral *a91 ! direction ( :i* is v rem>kable4 ,! "o radiates f a common c5tre1 situat$ ab\t fifty miles nor? ( ,m\nt ,d>i51 9 ! sea ne> ,cliffy ,head4 ,?is sy/em includes all ! pr9cipal valleys f ! ,t]emakau on ! nor? to ! ,mak>ora on ! s\?1 _! direction v>y+ f ,n4 #hb ,e4 to ,s4 #cj ,w41 giv+ ! idea t ! c\ntry has be5 />r$1 j z a mirror is />r$ by a viol5t bl[4 ,to ! o!r sy/em belong ! valleys ( riv]s & wat]c\rses1 runn+ ei!r on ! /rike ( ! b$s1 or 9 ! direction ( ! cross-jo9ts1 or 9 a zigzag c\rse1 foll[+ alt]nately ^! two directions & giv+ to ! cliffs :i* b\nd ^! valleys a peculi> rectangul> appe>ance1 resembl+ ru9$ masonry on a gigantic scale4 ,! we/]n slope & "p ( ! c5tral *a9 consi/ ( cry/all9e rocks & metamorphic s*i/s re/+ on a basis ( granite1 t pres5ts itself "h & !re to ! view 9 ! rugg$ bluffs & declivities on ! we/ coa/4 ,to ! ea/w>d ( ! cry/all9e zone /ratifi$ s$im5t>y rocks appe>1 su* z slates1 s&/ones1 conglom]ates & indurat$ %ales4 ,^! compose ! great] "p ( ! ea/]n side ( ! c5tral *a91 exhibit+ ev]y:]e huge fold+s4 ,! ext5sive developm5t ( lime/ones su* z are peculi> to ! ,european ,alps is totally lack+1 & x is easily se5 t only ! ea/]n half ( a complete m\nta9 sy/em has be5 pres]v$1 :ile ! we/]n half is buri$ 9 ! dep? ( ! ma94 ,sid5ote3 ,flora & ,fauna4 ,at ,m\nt ,cook ! botani/ has a spl5did field be=e him4 ,! alp9e & sub-alp9e flora is ( ! mo/ beautiful & div]sifi$ "*1 & to ! travell] mak+ 8 fir/ visit f ,au/ralia or ! ,nor!rn ,hemisph]e x w also h ! *>m ( novelty4 ,among ! %rubs !re is consid]able v>iety1 & _m ( ! bu%es are dur+ ! autumn lad5 ) prettily col\r$ b]ries4 ,among ! l>g] trees a v>iety ( bee* is mo/ prom95t4 ,! pretty gre5 foliage ( ! broadleaf is also conspicu\s1 & a numb] ( ! ,conif]4 ,b x is probably among ! h]bace\s plants t ! botani/ w delight mo/ to l+]4 ,on ,m\nt ,torlesse1 9 ! l[] & m ea/]n range1 ,dr4 von ,haa/1 dur+ 8 e>ly explorations1 collect$ ov] two hundr$ fl[]+ plants1 ov] ?irty ( :i* 7 new to sci5ce1 & ev5 9 ^! lat] ye>s new discov]ies are /ill be+ made4 ,spl5did h]ds ( r$ de] inhabit ! heights & vales ( ! less] ,alps1 s t aft] ! m\nta9e] has bagg$ 8 peaks he c *ange 8 ice-axe = 8 rifle & bag a few f9e heads z well4 ,rec5tly *amois h be5 successfully acclimatiz$ 9 ! ,m\nt ,cook region1 :ile elk & moose h be5 lib]at$ 9 o!r localities4 ,9 ! riv]s ( bo? ! ,nor? & ! ,s\? ,isl& !re are fi% t w make ! rods b5d & ! reels give to "s purpose4 ,! birds ( ! alp9e & sub-alp9e regions are especially int]e/+4 ,! kiwi & ! kakapo1 ^? /range flightless birds ( ! ,s\? & ,we/1 w prove a novelty to ! explor] f nor!rn climes2 :ile ! inquisitive fri5dly weka1 ) 8 rudim5t>y w+s1 & ! curi\s kea1 :o digs into ! lo9s ( ! liv+ %eep ) 8 p[]ful hook$ beak to make a meal ( ! kidney fat1 w be a nev]-fail+ s\rce ( int]e/ to ! travell]1 :o w f9d ! =m] a ?ief & ! latt] r a noisy companion :il/ he is endeav\r+ to seek repose 9 "o or o!r ( ! iron-ro($ m\nta9 huts4 ,wood-pigeons & a bu% p>rot kn[n z ! kaka are also to be f\nd1 &1 9 unexplor$ c\ntry1 may make a welcome addition to ! l>d]4 ,a native ?ru%1 two species ( cuckoo t come d[n f ! equatorial isl&s1 wr5s & fly-cat*]s are also met )2 :ile ! tui & ! bell bird sometimes fill ! woods ) glori\s song4 ,9 a *apt] on m\nta9s !re is n space to d !m all ju/ice2 b anyone :o is specially int]e/$ 9 t /range bird1 ! kea1 w f9d 8 habits & 8 "* m fully describ$ 9 my rec5tly publi%$ book1 ,a ,climb] 9 ,new ,zeal&4 ,sid5ote3 ,glaci]s4 ,! foll[+ table1 %[+ comp>ative sizes ( ! ,cant]bury or ea/ coa/ glaci]s compil$ by ,mr4 ,t4 ,n4 ,brodrick ( ! ,new ,zeal& ,gov]nm5t ,survey ,dep>tm5t1 w give "s idea ( ! ext5t ( ! glaciation & prove int]e/+ to anyone contemplat+ a m\nta9e]+ exp$ition to ! ,s\!rn ,alps3 ,,table ,,%[+ ,,comp>ative ,,sizes ,,( ,,! ,,cant]bury ,,glaci]s ---------------------------------------- -------------------------- ,"n4 ,area ( ,area ( ,l5g? ( ,av]age ,greate/,n>r[e/ ,glaci]4,c\ntry f ,glaci]4 ,wid?4 ,wid?4 ,wid?4 :i* ,supply ( ,ice is drawn4#ce ---------------------------------------- -------------------------- ,acres4 ,acres4 ,mls4 ,cs4,mls4 ,cs4 ,mls4 ,cs4,mls4 ,cs4 ,tasman #ac1ffd #be1jjj #ah #j #a #ae #b #ad #j #fj ,mur*ison #e1hjj #ad1jjj #aj #gj #j #ff-g_/aj #a #e #j #db ,godley #e1cab #aj1efj #h #j #a #c #a #ee #j #eh ,muell] #c1bjj #g1gdj #h #j #j #ej #j #fa #j #cg ,hook] #b1daf #d1aab #g #be #j #da-c_/aj #j #ed #j #cj ,class5 #a1gjg #c1igb #d #gj #j #dc #j #gc #j #ba ---------------------------------------- -------------------------- ,fir/-class m\nta9s 9 ! ,new ,zeal& ,alps may be said to range 9 height f #aj1jjj feet to #ab1cdg feet1 :i* latt] is ! height ( ,m\nt ,cook4 ,all ! m\nta9s ( #aj1jjj feet & ov] h n[ be5 climb$2 b !re is mu* int]e/+ "w yet to be done 9 connection ) new r\tes & high p9nacles & passes on ! ma9 range1 :ile !re are /ill _m untrodd5 peaks ( ! second class scatt]$ ov] a wide ext5t ( explor$ & unexplor$ c\ntry4 ,9 %ort1 !re is 9 ,new ,zeal& "w = g5]ations ( climb]s yet to d4 ,,footnotes3 #ce ,?is is n ! :ole wat]%$1 b only t portion on :i* ! nv sn[ lies4 ,,*apt] ,,xviii ,,! ,,pyr5ees ,,by ,,claude ,,elliott ,! claims ( ! ,pyr5ees on ! alp9e climb] h be5 set =? ) *>m & vig\r by ,c\nt ,h5ry ,russell & ,mr4 ,packe1 & yet !y rema9 s+ul>ly neglect$4 ,possibly x is ! v ard\r ( _! advocates t has betray$ _! cause4 ,= x is n z ! rival ( ! ,alps1 b z a prep>atory tra9+-gr\nd = ! ,alps or z a refuge f ! cosmopolitan t\ri/1 t ! ,pyr5ees %\ld be reg>d$4 ,let x be said at once t z a climb+-gr\nd pure & simple !re c be no comp>ison betwe5 ! ranges4 ,! bigge/ peak 9 ! ,pyr5ees has a height ( #aa1afj feet2 _! glaci]s are small--_! total area is ab\t #ac squ>e miles--!y d n fl[ d[n into ! valleys1 b z a rule are z broad z !y are long2 & ! sn[l9e is ab\t #ajjj feet high] ?an x is 9 ,switz]l&4 ,! v lack ( sn[ & ice at once r5d]s ! ord9>y r\tes up ! l>g] ,pyr5ean peaks inf9itely m easy ?an ! ord9>y fir/-class alp9e asc5t4 ,( c\rse rock climbs ( great difficulty c be f\nd if se>* is made = !m1 b ! normal r\tes up ! rock peaks ( reputation1 su* z ! ,f\rcanade or ! ,pic du ,midi d',ossau1 d n pres5t difficulties approa*+ ^?1 say1 ( ! ,*amonix ,aiguilles4 ,! climb+ on ! :ole resembles t ( ! we/]n end ( ! ,ob]l& or ( ,tyrol4 ,) "s exceptions ! angles are n /eep1 ! rock is incl9$ to be rott51 & ! sn[ & ice "w is easy4 ,! m\nta9s possess1 h[ev]1 a peculi> *>m ( _! own1 :i* is n n[adays to be f\nd 9 ! ,alps1 & is due to _! solitude1 _! wildness1 _! fre$om f ! works ( man4 ,& ?is v desolation provides ! ,pyr5ees ) peculi> difficulties3 !re ! m\nta9e] w f9d himself almo/ completely alone2 !re are few guides1 few climb+ p>ties1 few huts1 no good climb+ c5tres1 no good maps1 & seldom any detail$ descriptions ( r\tes4 ,he w h to be dep5d5t on himself & himself only1 & x is 9 ?is t _! appeal & _! value lie4 ,sid5ote3 ,g5]al ,topography & ,/ructure4 ,! portion ( ! ,pyr5ees :i* w mo/ int]e/ ! m\nta9e] is t :i* lies betwe5 ! ,valle d',aspe imm$iately to ! s\? ( ,pau1 on ! we/1 & ! ,val d',aran1 imm$iately beyond ,lu*on1 on ! ea/--a di/ance ( "s #gj miles4 ,! /ructure is m complicat$ ?an appe>s at fir/ sight1 because ! bigge/ peaks d n lie on ! c5tral fronti] range1 b on "o side or ! o!r1 & because ! subsidi>y ridges (t5 jo9 ! ma9 range at v acute angles4 ,! reason = ?is is t ! l9es ( orig9al fold+ lie at an acute angle to ! g5]al direction ( ! *a92 ,m4 ,s*rad] has po9t$ out t 8:ile ! *a9 z a :ole lies 9 ! direction ,e4 #i ,s41 ?is p>ticul> direction is n produc$ by a cont9u\s l9e1 b by a s]ies ( oblique folds ^: direction is ab\t ,e4 #cj ,s40 ,! folds are ( granite1 s*i/ or lime/one1 & ?us provide a great v>iety ( rock "w4 ,! sket* ov]leaf only indicates g5]al topography4 ,/>t+ at ! ,valle d',aspe & proce$+ ea/w>ds1 we f9d t ! ma9 fronti] range is comp>atively l[1 :ile ! high] peaks are ?r[n out to ! nor?1 ! *ief be+ ! ,pic du ,midi d',ossau 7#idfj feet7 above ! village ( ,gabas1 a f9e d\ble-peak$ m\nta9 ( rott5 granite & s*i/1 ! trav]se ( :i* makes an excell5t climb4 ,! ma9 range1 h[ev]1 /ill keep+ its s*i/\s "*1 soon rises to ov] #aj1jjj feet 9 ! ,balait\s1 :i* lies at ! head ( ! ,val d',azun & provides good climb+4 ,aft] ?is x ma9ta9s its high level1 b x is ov]topp$ by ! ,pic d',enf] 7#aj1bjj feet71 a granite mass imm$iately to ! s\? & above ! ,ba?s ( ,panticosa 9 ,spa94 ,! fronti] *a9 aft] pass+ ! ,pic d',enf] culm9ates 9 ! ,vignemale 7#aj1hjj feet71 a s*i/\s peak ) a f9e glaci]1 & !n b5ds s\? to ! ice-cov]$ lime/one massif above ! ,cirque de ,gav>nie1 compris+ ! ,taillon 7#aj1cjj feet7 & ! ,m>bor 7#aj1fjj feet71 on ! fronti]1 & ,m\nt ,p]du 7#aj1ijj feet7 imm$iately to ! s\?4 ,a little f>!r ea/w>ds x ?r[s out a high rib1 runn+ into ,france & culm9at+ 9 ! ,pic ,long 7#aj1djj feet74 ,cont9u+ along ! ma9 range we f9d t x ma9ta9s its height1 & ?\gh x nev] rises mu* above #aj1jjj feet x only twice falls bel[ #hjjj1 & !n only by a few feet1 till x rea*es ! ,val d',aran4 ,! =mation ( ?is ea/]ly portion is ( granite1 & provides a quantity ( good rock climb+4 ,! highe/ m\nta9s1 h[ev]1 lie 9 two massifs on ! ,spani% side ( ?is "p ( ! range4 ,! mo/ we/]ly ( ^! conta9s ! ,pic des ,posets 7#aa1jdj feet71 an int]e/+ peak ( granite & s*i/ ris+ f an easy glaci]1 & ! o!r is ! massif ( ! ,maladetta1 culm9at+ 9 ! ,pic de ,n?\ 7#aa1afj feet71 ! highe/ summit ( ! ,pyr5ees1 on ^: flank lies ! l>ge/ glaci] ( ! range4 ,! two massifs are sep>at$ f "o ano!r by ! deep valley ( ! ,es]a1 :]e ,v5asque is situat$1 :i* c be rea*$ easily f ,lu*on1 9 ,france1 by ! mule-track ov] ! ,port de ,v5asque4 ,beyond ! ,port ! ma9 range is cut across by ! ,val d',aran1 runn+ r\ghly we/-nor?-we/1 :i* m>ks a l9e ( geological fold+4 ,s\? ( ! ,val d',aran & ea/ ( ! ,maladetta gr\p lies ! ,mont>to massif 7n to be confus$ ) ! ,pic de ,mont>to d',aran71 a rocky ridge1 ris+ out ( a sn[ field on ! ea/ resembl+ a small glaci]1 ( :i* ! highe/ po9t is ! ,comolo ,=no 7c4 #aj1ajj feet7 & ! mo/ /rik+ ! ,pic de ,bcibri1 "s #ajj feet l[]4 ,f>!r ea/w>d & /ill s\? & ea/ ( ! ,val d',aran1 is an unusually wild & complex region ( granite peaks1 av]ag+ #iejj feet1 & innum]able small lakes1 compris+ ! ,cirques ( ,coloms1 ,sab\r$o & ! ,si]ra de los ,encantados4 ,! ma9 fronti] *a9 />ts aga9 beyond ! ,val d',aran "s miles to ! nor?w>d1 & ?\gh x /ill rema9s high & /ill =ms "o ( ! mo/ rem>kable m\nta9 b>ri]s 9 ,europe1 x conta9s no glaci] & little p]petual sn[1 & on ! :ole ! m\nta9s are less /eep4 ,s f a purely te*nical po9t ( view x is ( comp>atively small int]e/ to ! climb]4 ,b !re are few p :o w\ld n enjoy visit+ x1 bo? because ( ! wildness & desolation ( ! c\ntry1 & because hidd5 away 9 its recesses is ! pr9cipality ( ,&orra1 :i* lies imm$iately to ! s\? ( ! wat]%$1 "s #dj miles beyond ! ,val d',aran1 & accessible )\t great difficulty f ! railway at ,ax 9 ,france4 ,illu/ration3 ,,map ,,( ,,pyr5ees ,x w be se5 f ?is brief description t ! range is an ext5d$ "o1 & t ! l>g] peaks are f> ap>t f "o ano!r4 ,moreov]1 !re are few t[ns among ! m\nta9s1 & ! high] summits are sep>at$ f "o ano!r by difficult c\ntry4 ,on ! ,fr5* side !re are a c]ta9 numb] ( good roads connect+ ! nor?w>d runn+ valleys1 b on ! ,spani% side !re is (t5 n ev5 ! fa9te/ ( pa?s4 ,also f ! ,val d',ossau to ,ax1 #aej miles to ! ea/1 no l>ge road actually crosses ! ma9 range1 & ev5 footpa?s across are surpris+ly r>e4 ,x foll[s1 !n1 t ! ,pyr5ees are n m\nta9s = ! climb] :o is fond ( ! com=ts ( life4 ,a t5t or sleep+-bag is absolutely necess>y = _! real appreciation4 ,sid5ote3 ,c5tres4 ,! only c5tres are ,lu*on & ,gav>nie1 b ^! are n good2 ! climb+ r\nd !m is limit$1 & w\ld soon be exhau/$ by a compet5t p>ty1 unless x 7 cont5t ) inf9ite small v>iations4 ,gav>nie 7#ejjj feet7 is easily rea*$ f ,p>is via ,bordeaux1 ,dax & ,l\rdes to ,pi]refitte 9 "u #bd h\rs2 !nce by a %ort electric railway to ,luz1 & f9ally by #ab miles ( excell5t road4 ,x conta9s sev]al good hotels1 & 9 summ] x is cr[d$ ) t\ri/s4 ,f "h a numb] ( int]e/+ peaks c be climb$ direct4 ,imm$iately to ! s\? is ! magnific5t ,cirque de ,gav>nie1 above :i* lies ! fronti] ridge ris+ to ! po9ts ( ! ,gabit\ 7#aj1jjj feet71 ! ,taillon 7#aj1cbj feet71 ! ,casque1 ! ,t\r de ,m>bor 7#aj1fgj feet7 & ! ,pic d',a/az\4 ,f ! ,m>bor a /ill high] ridge runs s\?-ea/1 on :i* lie ! ,cyl9dre 7#aj1ijj feet71 ,mont ,p]du 7#aj1iij feet7 & ! ,s\m de ,ramond 7#aj1gfj feet74 ,! fronti] peaks may all be climb$ 9 a day f ,gav>nie1 & ! en]getic may trav]se two or ev5 ?ree ( !m 9 ! day4 ,! o!rs also are n too f> = a day's excursion2 b x may be f\nd pref]able to sleep 9 ! ,cabane de ,gaulis1 on ! flank ( ! ,p]du1 or bett] /ill1 to biv\ac4 ,hang+ on ^! peaks is a mass ( nv & brok5 glaci]1 all[+ difficult v>iations to be made on ! usual r\tes1 :i* are easy2 "h alone1 inde$1 c glaci] "w ( any difficulty be f\nd4 ,= in/ance1 a r\te has be5 made up ! ,p]du f ! nor?1 :i* involves ! asc5t ( an ice-fall4 ,! rock "w is n s satisfactory1 b "s really h>d & int]e/+ asc5ts h be5 made /raight up ^! fronti] peaks f ! ,cirque de ,gav>nie4 ,f>!r to ! ea/ we f9d fir/ ! ,cirque d',e/aub1 & !n ! ,cirque de ,tr\m\se1 fac+ nor?1 & cut (f f ,gav>nie & f ea* o!r by subsidi>y ridges4 ,surr\nd+ ! ,cirque d',e/aub are rang$ 9 ord] ! ,tuqu]oye1 ! ,pic de ,p9de & o!r peaks1 provid+ "s difficult rock r\tes1 & accessible 9 a day f ,gav>nie4 ,above ! ,cirque de ,tr\m\se is an int]e/+ rock ridge1 ( :i* ! *ief po9t is ! ,pic de la ,munia 7#aj1cjj feet74 ,x is1 h[ev]1 r f> f ,gav>nie1 & _m p w pref] to sp5d ! night at ! small b exp5sive inn at ,hz be=e attack+ x4 ,f ne> ! ,munia a ridge runs due nor? to ! ,pic ,long4 ,?is m\nta9 c be climb$ by its glaci] or by its s\nd granite rocks 9 a long day f ,gav>nie1 or ! night c fir/ be sp5t at ,gdre1 :]e also ! inn is de>4 ,to ! we/ ( ,gav>nie lies ! ,vignemale1 :i* is asc5d$ by a crevass$1 b easy1 glaci]4 ,"h aga9 difficult climb+ c be f\nd if se>* is made2 = in/ance1 x has be5 asc5d$ by a v difficult c\loir on ! nor? side4 ,lu*on 7#bjjj feet7 is ev5 m easily rea*$ ?an ,gav>nie4 ,tra9s run direct f ,p>is via ,t\l\se & ,montrejeau1 & ! :ole j\rney f ,london %\ld take j ov] #bd h\rs4 ,x is altoge!r a l>g] t[n ?an ,gav>nie1 & is "o ( ! fa%ionable wat]+-places ( ! ,pyr5ees4 ,x has "s good if exp5sive %ops4 ,f "h x is easy to attack ! int]e/+ granite peaks on ! ma9 range4 ,runn+ s\?w>d1 a little to ! we/ ( ,lu*on1 is ! ,val d',oo or d',a/au1 enclos$ by ! ,pic du ,port d',oo 7#aj1cjj feet71 ! ,p]digh]o 7#aj1ejj feet71 ! ,crabi\les 7#aj1bjj feet7 & ! ,quairat 7#aj1jjj feet74 ,! ord9>y r\tes up ^! c be accompli%$ 9 a longi% day f ,lu*on1 & are q easy accord+ to alp9e /&>ds4 ,!y may also be visit$ on ! way to ! ,posets1 :i* lie imm$iately to ! s\?4 ,imm$iately to ! ea/ ( ! ,val d',oo & ne>] ,lu*on is ! ,valle de ,lys1 :i* is dom9at$ by ! ,pic de ,quairat1 ! ,crabi\les1 ! ,maupas 7#aj1bjj feet7 & ! ,b\m 7#aj1jjj feet71 & ! small glaci]s on _! flanks4 ,! asc5ts ( ^! are aga9 r long f ,lu*on1 b !re is an inn "s #c h\rs up ! valley :]e ! night may be sp5t4 ,f>!r to ! ea/1 & runn+ s\?-ea/ f ,lu*on1 is ! ,valle de la ,pique1 :i* leads up to ! ,port de ,v5asque4 ,! m\nta9s r\nd ?is valley are n s f9e1 & are mo/ly too easy to dem& att5tion4 ,"o exception is ! ,pic de la ,pique 7c4 #hjjj feet71 a small1 %>p rock peak 9 ! valley1 ) a great local reputation1 b n really ( s]i\s difficulty4 ,^! are ! only peaks ( int]e/ 9 ! imm$iate neighb\rhood ( ,lu*on4 ,b by cross+ ! ,port de ,v5asque 7#gijj feet71 or pref]ably "s m int]e/+ col to ! we/1 & sleep+ out1 ! ,maladetta gr\p c easily be climb$4 ,?is massif faces ! ,port de ,v5asque1 & consi/s ( a some:at amorph\s base f :i* rise sev]al granite ridges & summits--! ,pic d',albe 7#aj1gjj feet7 on ! we/1 !n ! ,maladetta 7#aj1hjj feet7 & ! ,n?\ 7#aa1afj feet71 f :i* fl[ two l>ge glaci]s1 !n ! ,pic de ,sal5ques1 ! ,pic ,m\lires1 & f9ally also ! ,f\rcanade 7#idjj feet74 ,at ! foot ( ! ,glaci] du ,n?\ is a hut call$ ! ,r5cluse4 ,mo/ p w\ld h pref]r$ a biv\ac to ! old refuge !re1 b a new build+ has j be5 op5$1 & ! track !reto f ! ,port de ,v5asque 0 9 #aiai be+ m>k$ ) blazes ( gre5 pa9t 7a unique ph5om5on 9 ! ,pyr5ees1 at all ev5ts on ! ,spani% side74 ,! climb+ on ! ,maladetta gr\p is v easy on ! :ole4 ,! glaci]s are simple1 & ! rock1 ?\gh rott51 is easy4 ,! ,f\rcanade1 a bold granite peak1 m easily approa*$ f ,las ,bordas or ,viella 9 ! ,val d',aran ?an f ,lu*on1 pres5ts no difficulty by ! ord9>y r\te f ! s\?1 b might af=d "s v int]e/+ fancy r\tes on ! precipit\s nor!rn side4 ,! be/ climb+ f ,lu*on lies on ! ma9 range1 & ! peaks "h h n be5 s ?or\ghly explor$ z ^? r\nd ,gav>nie2 inde$ !re is room = "s mo/ int]e/+ new rock r\tes to be made4 ,! rock aga9 is granite1 & is mu* s\nd] ?an ! lime/one ( ! ,gav>nie peaks2 & ! ma9 range provides "s beautifully s\nd rock artes4 ,! m\nta9s r\nd ,gav>nie & ,lu*on are n big1 are gr\p$ closely toge!r1 & ! asc5t ( m ?an "o c (t5 be made 9 a mod]ately long day4 ,!re=e a p>ty :i* cl+s to civilization w soon exhau/ ! m important r\tes & be driv5 back on mak+ m9or v>iations4 ,yet !re are no o!r c5tres wor?y ( ! "n4 ,( c\rse !re are places su* z ,caut]ets1 or ! ,ba?s ( ,panticosa 9 ,spa91 f :i* a few peaks c be asc5d$1 b ^! c h>dly be call$ c5tres4 ,x foll[s1 !n1 t a p>ty :i* wi%es = any quantity or v>iety ( m\nta9e]+ prop] mu/ sleep ei!r 9 inns or huts or mu/ camp out1 & inns are s r>e & huts are s dirty t x w be =c$ to camp out if x is to see ! mo/ attractive p>ts ( ! range4 ,= x is precisely ! wildness & solitude ( ^! p>ts1 f> f human habitation1--( ! ,posets1 = in/ance1 or ! ,balait\s1 or ! region ea/ ( ! ,maladetta gr\p1--t m>k (f ! ,pyr5ees f ! ,alps & give !m a *>m t is all _! own4 ,! wise climb] w ab&on c5tres & inns & move along ! ma9 range1 sleep+ out1 climb+ su* peaks z attract him1 & occasionally visit+ "s high village = ! sake ( r5ew+ 8 food supplies4 ,?is is ! only way 9 :i* to see & appreciate ! ,pyr5ees1 & if ! climb] adopts x he w h to face problems v diff]5t f ^? ( ! ,alps4 ,?\gh ! asc5ts w be f> easi] ?an ^? ( fir/-class alp9e peaks1 yet ! ext]nal help w be inf9itely small]4 ,he w f9d ! c\ntry a primitive "o1 & if he is to a*ieve success he mu/ dep5d ma9ly on himself & little on pr(essional or artificial aid4 ,sid5ote3 ,guides4 ,9 ! fir/ place1 little help c be obta9$ locally4 ,at ,gav>nie & ,lu*on !re are a few capable m52 b ! majority ( ! class call$ guides 9 ! ,pyr5ees are guides r 9 ! old s5se ( ! ^w ?an 9 ! new] s5se ( pr(essional climb]s4 ,!y are1 ( c\rse1 compet5t to %[ ! way ov] ! m\nta9s f "o place to ano!r1 & (t5 ev5 ! easy r\tes up ! peaks2 sometimes !y are good rock climb]s4 ,b ( actual m\nta9e]+1 z a rule !y "k no?+4 ,mo/ ( !m h little k ( sn[ craft or ( ! use ( ! rope--:i* !y are apt to reg>d z a dang] to !mselves r ?an z a safegu>d to _! p>ty2 & above all1 !y h no?+ ( ! high tradition ( ! alp9e guide4 ,a guid$ p>ty 9 ! ,pyr5ees w\ld save "t bel[ ! sn[l9e 9 gett+ across c\ntry2 b1 provid$ !y _h a little exp]i5ce ( ! ,alps & ( ,engli% climb+1 above ! sn[l9e !y w\ld usually be saf] alone4 ,!re is also 9 ! m remote di/ricts a class ( m5 :o (f] !mselves z guides1 b 9 :om x w\ld be unwise to put any tru/ = any purpose :atev]1 especially 9 ! (f season :5 ! m\nta9s are m ?an usually desolate4 ,?\gh brig&age is n[ ext9ct 9 ! ,pyr5ees1 !re are /ill p]sons :o w seize any *ance ( return+ to a modifi$ =m ( x4 ,b ev5 if we all[ t "s guides are bett] ?an o!rs1 ! ,pyr5ees rema9 ess5tially m\nta9s = ! guideless1 & if ! climb] takes a guide1 he w lose half _! *>m :ile add+ little to 8 own safety or a*ievem5ts4 ,sid5ote3 ,maps4 ,aga91 9 ,switz]l&1 ! climb] rightly puts implicit confid5ce 9 ! accuracy ( 8 maps ev5 = m9ute detail4 ,9 ! ,pyr5ees he is unable to d s4 ,!re are ?ree maps ( importance1 & none ( !m approa*es ! excell5ce ( ! ,siegfri$ map4 ,! fir/ is t issu$ by ! ,fr5* ,m9i/re de l',intrieur1 & publi%$ by ,ha*ette et ,cie1 9 pla9 pap] %eet4 ,its scale is small 7#a_/ajjjjj71 x has no cont\r l9es1 x is r indi/9ctly pr9t$1 x makes little attempt to del9eate accurately ! high] m\nta9s1 & on ! ,spani% side x gives no m ?an a g5]al indication ( ! geography ( ! c\ntry4 ,! map ( ! tat-,major de la ,gu]re1 :i* is on a l>g] scale 7#a_/hjjjj71 =m]ly sold at #a fr4 #bj c4 a %eet1 is ev5 worse2 ?is also is n a cont\r map1 & x /ops entirely at ! fronti]1 & leaves ! ,spani% side a complete blank4 ,its pr9t+1 moreov]1 is blurr$ & indi/9ct4 ,! ?ird map is ! mo/ useful2 x is drawn by ,m4 ,s*rad]1 & issu$ by ! ,club ,alp9 ,franais1 9 #f %eets1 & cov]s only ! ,high ,pyr5ees4 ,x is absolutely ess5tial = ! ,spani% side1 & x is be/ = ! ,fr5* side also4 ,its scale is only #a_/ajjjjj1 & x is n q s detail$ z we might wi%4 ,b x gives ! cont\rs1 & x is cle>ly pr9t$4 ,un=tunately mo/1 if n all1 ( ! %eets are out ( pr9t & difficult to obta94 ,f9ally1 !re is said to be a ,spani% milit>y map ( ! ,high ,pyr5ees2 :e!r x exi/s or n1 x is unobta9able by ! public4 ,! defects ( ^! maps are felt ev5 m 9 ! valleys ?an 9 ! high m\nta9s4 ,9 climb+ a peak 9 good wea!r comp>atively little help is ne$$ f a map2 b ! configuration ( ! high] valleys & gorges is su* t = !m a really good detail$ map w\ld be invaluable4 ,!y are (t5 n>r[1 /eep & heavily wood$2 pa?s are few & v h>d to f9d1 or to keep to :5 f\nd1 & ! exi/+ maps give little accurate indication ( !m4 ,9 consequ5ce1 x is "h t a guideless p>ty has special difficulties1 & ^! are increas$ by ! preval5ce ( ! cirque =mation4 ,! upp] valleys are (t5 cut into two p>ts by a horse%oe wall ( rock1 ext5d+ "r across !m f "o side to ! o!r1 & ?us consi/ ( an upp] & l[] plane ) a precipice betwe54 ,9 asc5d+ a valley x is usually n difficult to see an easy way up ^! cirques1 b 9 desc5d+1 :5 no?+ c be se5 betwe5 ! imm$iate =egr\nd & ! valley bel[1 x is (t5 h>d to tell :]e ! l9e ( lea/ resi/ance lies4 ,! map z a rule gives no clue1 & a guideless p>ty may h to make sev]al attempts to f9d a feasible r\te4 ,?us x is really 9 ! valleys1 & especially 9 ! ,spani% valleys1 :]e all difficulties seem to be acc5tuat$1 t ! lack ( a good map is mo/ felt4 ,!re is1 h[ev]1 a prospect t soon we %all be bett] equipp$ 9 ?is respect1 z ! publication ( ! ,pyr5ean %eets ( ! new ,fr5* #a_/ejjjj map is expect$ 9 ! c\rse ( ! next few ye>s1 & !re is also talk ( ! issue ( a #a_/bjjjj map ( ! ,gav>nie peaks4 ,! reproduction ( ! #a_/djjjj manuscript map1 :i* =ms ! basis ( ! #a_/hjjjj tat-,major map 7,france only71 has also be5 discuss$4 ,sid5ote3 ,huts & ,inns4 ,ano!r respect 9 :i* ! ,pyr5ees w be f\nd m primitive ?an ! ,alps is 9 ! abs5ce ( climb+ huts4 ,!re are1 inde$1 huts 9 ! ,pyr5ees 9 c]ta9 numb]s1 b !y are %eph]ds' huts1 built ( uncem5t$ /ones ) no floor+1 & z a rule s fil?y t no civiliz$ p]son w\ld use !m unless driv5 to x by great /ress ( wea!r4 ,! majority ( ! huts m>k$ on ! maps are ( ?is nature1 & z !y are liable to fall to pieces f "t to "t1 "h also ! maps may become untru/wor?y4 7,a special in/ance ( ?is is ! ,cabane de ,turmes1 "u ! ,pic des ,posets2 ?is is m>k$ 9 ! ,s*rad] map1 b has = "s "t ceas$ to exi/47 ,!re are1 h[ev]1 a v few climb+ huts prop]1 especially ne> ,lu*on & ,gav>nie1 ei!r kept by private individuals = pr(it1 or erect$ by ! ,c4,a4,f4 on alp9e l9es4 ,inns also are r>ely to be f\nd high up 9 ! m\nta9s2 on ! ,fr5* side !y are m common ?an on ! ,spani%1 & !y are also m likely to be good2 9 ,spa9 !y are sometimes fairly clean1 b always v primitive1 ) a peculi> /yle ( cook+1 involv+ a lavi% use ( oil1 :i* is extremely unpalatable to mo/ ,engli%m54 ,probably ! be/ inn 9 ! high valleys on ! ,spani% side1 except at ! ,ba?s ( ,panticosa1 :i* are on a high road1 is at ! !rmal e/abli%m5t & %r9e ( ,caldas de ,bolis4 ,x may be useful to m5tion ?is = ^? :o wi% to explore ! region ea/ ( ! ,maladetta1 z x f9ds no place 9 ,joanne's guide4 ,sid5ote3 ,equipm5t4 ,9 ^! circum/ances1 huts & inns be+ bo? few & bad1 a t5t or a sleep+-bag is an absolute necessity 9 ! ,pyr5ees4 ,! latt] is pref]able = a p>ty :i* wi%es to be z free z possible2 a t5t is1 ( c\rse1 m com=table1 b x almo/ necess>ily involves ! tak+ ( a mule1 & ! p>ty w be at once re/rict$ 9 its movem5ts2 ! mule w be unable to trav]se peaks1 & m especially x w be unable to cross a l>ge numb] ( l[ cols :i* involve no s]i\s climb+1 b :i* w\ld be too difficult = f\r legs4 ,?is means t ! p>ty w\ld be able to cross ! ma9 range only at a few po9ts1 & 9 mov+ along ! range x w\ld (t5 be =c$ d[n into ! l[] valleys4 ,aga91 9 bad wea!r sleep+-bags are n su* a disadvantage 9 ! ,pyr5ees z else:]e1 = _! lime/one & s*i/ t5d to wea!r into caves1 & if a biv\ac is made ne> a cave or an ov]hang or a %eph]ds' hut 7& !re w g5]ally be little difficulty ab\t f9d+ "o ( ^!71 %elt] c at once be f\nd 9 ! ev5t ( /orm4 ,on ! o!r h&1 a p>ty travell+ )\t port]s or mules & sleep+ out w f9d t x has a great weight to c>ry4 ,! sleep+-bags ought to be ?ick1 z x w (t5 be necess>y to biv\ac at ab\t #gjjj feet1 :i* is occasionally above ! tree-level1 & w>m? at night is wor? a few extra p\nds4 ,bel[ ! tree-level x is easy to make a fire1 b a l>ge supply ( wood mu/ be collect$1 & "s wakefulness is requir$ to prev5t ! fire f go+ out 9 ! small h\rs ( ! morn+ :5 ! cold is greate/4 ,= cook+ x is usually be/ to use an alum9ium cook] ) me?ylat$ spirits4 ,a l>ge quantity ( food mu/ also be c>ri$1 especially on ! ,spani% side1 :]e a human habitation may n be met ) = f\r days on end4 ,occasionally a %eph]d may be able to provide "s *eese1 or a limb ( an izz>d1 ! ,pyr5ean *amois2 b a climb+ p>ty w h to rely ma9ly on ! high villages = supplies1 & ^! are few & f> betwe54 ,! ,fr5* villages are m civiliz$1 & w provide m luxuri\s food2 b ! ,spani% villages are m wor? visit+1 ! p are k9dly1 & at lea/ ! necess>ies ( life are obta9able4 ,usually !y c provide c(fee1 *ick5s1 s>d9es1 eggs &1 ( c\rse1 bread4 ,b jam1 pott$ meats1 compress$ s\ps1 etc41 are bett] br\ght /raight f ,engl&1 ?\gh !y c be b\ght z a rule at ! l>g] t[ns on ! ,fr5* side4 ,*ocolate is bett] b\ght on ! ,fr5* side1 ?\gh g5]ally obta9able on ! ,spani%4 ,x is curi\s t c[s are r>ely kept 9 ! high villages1 & milk & butt] are (t5 unobta9able4 ,on ! ,spani% side mo/ p w pref] to dr9k wat]1 z ! w9e has a peculi> ta/e2 9 ,france x is good1 b r\gh4 ,/reams1 ( c\rse1 are pl5tiful 9 ! m\nta9s4 ,! natives c>ry _! liquor 9 bags ( goatsk91 smoo? on ! outside & hairy inside2 ! hair imp>ts a v goaty ta/e to ! cont5ts1 s x is wise to add an ord9>y ,engli% metal wat]-bottle to "o's equipm5t4 ,if "o ( ! p>ty is a fi%]man1 x w\ld probably pay to take a rod & l9e1 z _m ( ! small lakes ab\nd ) tr\t4 ,"s p c>ry ) !m rope-sol$ %oes1 alp>gatas1 :i* are us$ by ! natives = walk+ on ! r\gh mule-pa?s & ov] grass4 ,!y are c]ta9ly light & re/ful = "o's feet1 b x is d\btful :e!r !y are wor? _! weight & bulk 9 "o's rucksack2 = rock climb+ !y w\ld be "h ( d\btful use4 ,! usual alp9e clo?+ %\ld be worn4 ,! valleys are v hot 9 summ]1 b ! temp]ature & wea!r 9 ! m\nta9s are simil> to ^? ( ,switz]l&4 ,x is important to rememb] t (t5 civilization is sev]al days di/ant1 & 9 consequ5ce _m extras mu/ be tak54 ,mo/ ( ^! mu/ be br\ght f ,engl&1 z x is impossible to obta9 real climb+ equipm5t on ! spot4 ,x is q ess5tial to c>ry a fir/-aid case1 includ+ a few simple m$ic9es1 extra pairs ( sn[-glasses1 an extra fold+ lant]n1 pl5ty ( c&les & mat*es1 /r+1 wat]pro( bags--sponge-bags d v well--to protect mat*es1 maps1 etc4 ,a prismatic compass ) a protractor & an an]oid w be f\nd v useful = asc]ta9+ ! exact position ( ! p>ty4 ,a passport %\ld on no acc\nt be =gott53 ! ,cu/oms (fic]s & fronti] police give little s]i\s tr\ble1 b occasionally !y are apt to ass]t !mselves1 & 9 ?is case a passport has a mo/ soo?+ influ5ce ^u !m4 ,if no memb] ( ! p>ty kn[s ,spani%1 a conv]sation book w\ld be ( use4 ,a small k ( ,fr5* is ess5tial1 & 9 ea* ,spani% village !re is usually "s "o :o kn[s ,fr5* & w act z int]pret]4 ,/ill1 x w\ld save "s tr\ble to be able to talk a little ,spani%2 s9ce ! w> especially k ( ,fr5* seems to h become r>] at "s ( ! m remote ,spani% inns4 ,engli%1 ( c\rse1 is unkn[n except 9 ! l>g] ,fr5* t[ns4 ,basque w\ld only be ( use 9 ! c\ntry we/ ( ! ,valle d',aspe1 :]e ! range is l[]4 ,x is cle>1 !n1 t ea* memb] ( a p>ty ought to h a rucksack ( ! l>ge/ size4 ,8 sleep+-bag1 if he takes "o1 w fill mo/ ( x1 & ! re/ w be tak5 up by 8 extra clo!s or 8 %>e ( food & equipm5t4 ,9 all1 he w be c>ry+ m ?an is usual 9 ! ,alps 7probably betwe5 #bj & #be lb471 b n too mu* to affect 8 enjoym5t4 ,x is possibly a wise precaution = a p>ty1 />t+ out ( condition1 to hire a mule to convey _! rucksacks--:i* w be at _! heavie/ at ! />t--z f> z ! fir/ biv\ac4 ,sid5ote3 ,exp5se4 ,"o great advantage ( a holiday sp5t 9 ! ,pyr5ees is its *eapness4 ,?is is p>tially due to ! fact t ! climb] w sp5d mu* ( 8 "t ei!r 9 camp or else 9 small m\nta9 inns1 :]e ! *>ges are q mod]ate z a rule1 ! *ief exceptions be+ ! inns r\nd ! t\ri/ c5tres1 :i* t5d to be extortionate4 ,on ! ,spani% side ! /rang] ought to make a b>ga9 ) 8 ho/1 :o expects x ( him z a matt] ( c\rse4 ,?is is p>ticul>ly necess>y if ! hire ( a mule is 9 "q4 ,9 addition1 ! j\rney f ,engl& is n exp5sive2 ! pre-w> return f>e to any ( ! m\nta9 t]m9i rang$ f #i to #aj or #aa fir/ class1 & f #g to #h second class4 ,exi/+ rates are p]haps #cj p] c5t or #dj p] c5t high]4 ,guides1 if !y are us$1 are also *eap1 #aj to #ae francs a day ) food 0 a normal wage be=e ! w>1 ?\gh !y w\ld (t5 dem& m4 ,mo/ m\nta9s ne> any civilization h a fix$ t>iff2 ! bigg] peaks z a rule run f #bj to #cj francs1 ) a few runn+ to #dj francs 7pre-w> prices74 ,?us a p>ty accu/om$ to ! ,alps w be surpris$ at ! *eapness ( a holiday sp5t 9 ! ,pyr5ees1 unless1 inde$1 x sp5ds mu* "t 9 ! c5tres on ! ,fr5* side4 ,x is necess>y to provide oneself ) ,spani% money = ,spa94 ,fr5* money is n accept$ z a rule4 ,if consid]able loss ov] ex*ange is to be avoid$1 x is desirable to obta9 bo? ,fr5* & ,spani% notes be=e leav+ ,engl&4 ,engli% money c be *ang$1 at a price1 9 ! bigg] ,fr5* t[ns4 ,sid5ote3 ,lit]ature4 ,"s k ( ! lit]ature ( our m\nta9s is almo/ ess5tial to ! success ( a climb+ t\r1 & !re is no lack ( books & articles on ! subject4 ,ba$ek]'s ,s\?-,we/]n ,france is1 ( c\rse1 good = ! m civiliz$ region1 b makes no pret5ce at be+ a m\nta9e]'s guide4 ,joanne's ,pyrnes 7,ha*ette et ,cie1 #aiab1 revis$ to #aiad7 is bett]1 z x gives fairly detail$ acc\nts ( ! pr9cipal climbs1 & conta9s a good g5]al introduction4 ,c\nt ,h5ry ,russell's ,gr&es ,asc5sions des ,pyrnes 7,ha*ette1 #ahff7 & ,s\v5irs d'un ,montagn>d 7,pau1 #ahhh7 are bo? ( value2 !y describe all ! m important r\tes1 b ! /yle is emotional r ?an practical4 ,probably ! climb] w f9d ,packe's ,guide to ! ,pyr5ees 7,longmans1 #ahfg7 ( ! greate/ use2 x is ess5tially a m\nta9e]'s guide1 & re/ricts itself to ! region betwe5 ! ,valle d',aspe & ! ,val d',aran2 its directions = climb+ ! peaks are ( a practical nature1 & (t5 give z mu* detail z is necess>y4 ,un=tunately x is out ( pr9t1 & difficult to f9d4 ,9 addition to ^! guides we h an acc\nt ( two climb+ holidays1 call$ ,?r\gh ! ,high ,pyr5ees 7,innes1 #ahih71 by ,h4 ,sp5d] & ,h4 ,llewellyn ,smi?4 ,?is book gives a good picture ( ! c\ntry & ( ! type ( climb+1 & x conta9s an excell5t app5dix on ! 8,pyr5ees z a ,climb+ ,c5tre10 & an extremely useful bibliography1 includ+ a full li/ ( ! _m pap]s on ,pyr5ean climb+ to be f\nd 9 pa/ numb]s ( ! ,alp9e ,j\rnal & ! ,annuaire ( ! ,c4,a4,f4 ,x is 9 ^! j\rnals1 & especially 9 ! latt]1 t ! m difficult mod]n r\tes1 accompli%$ s9ce ! publication ( ,packe's guide1 are record$1 & "h we h a ready means ( kn[+ 9 :i* volume to f9d !m4 ,f9ally1 ,belloc's ,pyr5ees makes int]e/+ read+1 b x is ( m value to ! walk] ?an to ! climb]1 & x conta9s "s imag9ative detail4 99 99 99 99 99 ,f ?is %ort acc\nt x w be se5 t ! ,pyr5ees make no appeal to climb]s :o are only cont5t ) long & ardu\s peaks & difficult ice-"w1 or to ^? :o pref] to climb f a com=table hotel or a clean hut & :o dislike att5d+ 9 p]son to ! tr\blesome details ( biv\ack+ & cook+4 ,b to ! climb] ( mod]ate ambitions1 :o is we>y ( ! clatt] ( ,swiss hotels or ! picnic-p>ties on ,swiss peaks1 !re are no ne> m\nta9s :i* (f] s attractive a refuge4 ,! novice1 also1 :o has sp5t a few summ]s beh9d guides 9 ! ,alps w discov] t "o season ( guideless climb+ 9 ! ,pyr5ees w inf9itely increase 8 k ( m\nta9e]+ 9 ! l>g] s5se ( ! ^w2 he w h exp]i5ce ( r\te-f9d+ bo? 9 ! valleys & on rock & glaci]1 ( /ep-cutt+1 ( us+ an]oid & compass & ( camp+1 & he w return to ! great] peaks ) a height5$ capacity = appreciat+ ! m\nta9s & _! craft4 ,,*apt] ,,xix ,,! ,,rocky ,,m\nta9s ,,by ,a4 ,l4 ,,mumm ,sid5ote3 ,g5]al ,topography4 ,! ,rocky ,m\nta9s =m ! backbone ( ! ,nor?-,am]ican ,cont95t1 & ! ,canadian ,rockies ext5d f ! ,unit$ ,/ates fronti] 9 a nor?-we/]ly direction = "s hundr$s ( miles4 ,( ! regions :i* are ( int]e/ to m\nta9e]s1 ! nor!rn limit is m>k$ by ,m\nt ,sir ,alex&]1 a peak :i* rises a few miles to ! we/ ( ! cont95tal divide or wat]%$1 a little ov] #djj miles1 z ! cr[ flies 7v r\ghly speak+71 f ! fronti]1 & f #fj to #hj miles beyond ,m\nt ,robson4 ,! c\ntry situat$ betwe5 ^! two m\nta9s is full ( int]e/ = explor]s & climb]s1 b is at pres5t v imp]fectly kn[n & mapp$4 ,f ,m\nt ,robson s\?w>d we possess m\nta9e]+ k :i* is ext5sive1 b n q cont9u\s & f> f complete1 z f> z ,m\nt ,ass9ibo9e1 a di/ance 9 a direct l9e ( ab\t #bjj miles 7ano!r r\gh e/imate74 ,till q rec5tly no?+ ( alp9e or m\nta9e]+ int]e/ 0 kn[n to exi/ 9 ! ma9 *a9 ( ! ,canadian ,rockies s\? ( ,m\nt ,ass9ibo9e1 b1 9 ! c\rse ( an (ficial survey ( ! wat]%$ betwe5 ,kick+ ,horse ,pass & ! fronti] 7#aiac-af71 no less ?an f\r gr\ps ( m\nta9s1 clad 9 sn[ fields & glaci]s1 & conta9+ ?ree peaks ( ov] #aa1jjj feet1 7 discov]$4 ,no climb+ has z yet be5 attempt$ on any ( !m4 ,!y ext5d = ab\t #dj miles beyond ! ,ass9ibo9e gr\p4#cf ,! cont95tal wat]%$ pursues a v tortu\s & irregul> c\rse1 & is probably at lea/ half z long aga9 z ! #8air-l9e' l5g? ( ! range4 ,ea/ ( ! wat]%$ ! m\nta9 region ext5ds = a comp>atively %ort di/ance & ends ) rem>kable abruptness4 ,?r\gh mu* ( its l5g? !re is a succession ( m9or gr\ps & ranges situat$ close to ! ma9 *a91 b sep>at$ f x by ! upp] valleys ( ! great riv]s1 :i* %[ a /rik+ t5d5cy to run p>allel to x4 ,^! possess "s ext5sive sn[ fields & consid]able glaci]s1 & w probably receive att5tion f climb]s 9 ! ne> future1 b v little is kn[n ( !m at pres5t4 ,beyond !m is a belt ( m\nta9s1 n atta9+ to ! sn[-level b (t5 rocky & bold 9 outl9e1 :i* rea*es to ! edge ( ! great c5tral pla91 & pres5ts to ! travell] approa*+ x by ! railway ! appe>ance ( a solid imp5etrable wall4 ,!re are no sn[ fields or glaci]s 9 ?is out] belt s f> z ,i am aw>e4 7,x may be z well to say "h once = all t ?is qualification is (t5 unavoidable 9 deal+ ) an area s ext5sive & little kn[n z ! m\nta9 region ( ,canada2 x is impossible to give any in=mation at all )\t putt+ =w>d z probable /atem5ts :i* may turn out to be errone\s47 ,to ! we/ ( ! wat]%$1 on ! o!r h&1 ! c\ntry is cont9u\sly m\nta9\s all ! way to ! ,pacific ,coa/1 ?ree hundr$ miles away1 & !re are sev]al ranges1 alp9e 9 size & "*1 /&+ q ap>t f & indep5d5t ( ! ma9 *a94 ,( ^! ! ,selkirks1 an imm5se m\nta9 sy/em1 enclos$ by ! great loops ( ! ,columbia & ,koot5ay ,riv]s1 are by f> ! l>ge/ & mo/ important4 ,! out/&+ feature ( all ?is region is t till q mod]n times x 0 entirely un9habit$1 & = ! mo/ "p /ill rema9s s4 ,indians 9 old days came up into ! m\nta9s to hunt1 & to "s ext5t = purposes ( trade1 b !y did n live among !m4 ,two or ?ree outpo/s ( ! ,hudson ,bay ,company1 long s9ce ab&on$1 7 ! only p]man5t human habitations4 ,?is diff]5tiates m\nta9 travel 9 ,canada 9 _m ways--z soon z ! imm$iate neighb\rhood ( ! railway is left--f m\nta9 travel 9 ! ,caucasus or ! ,himalaya1 p>ticul>ly ) respect to food supplies1 roads & me?ods ( transport4 ,9 ! high m\nta9 region ! railways h _h little or no effect on ! "* ( ! c\ntry1 except )9 a few miles ( ! l9e4 ,! ,rockies are n[ accessible by two l9es ( railway4 ,( ^! ! ,gr& ,trunk ,pacific 0 complet$ e>ly 9 #aiad4 ,x ent]s ! m\nta9s by ! valley ( ! ,a?abasca ,riv]1 & at ! po9t :]e x leaves ! ,a?abasca to asc5d to ! ,yell[head ,pass 7#ag miles away7 /&s ,jasp]1 de/9$ to become a t\ri/ c5tre1 to :i* we %all return lat]4 ,! o!r l9e1 ! ,canadian ,pacific1 :i* has be5 9 exi/5ce m ?an ?irty ye>s1 crosses ! ma9 *a9 at ! ,kick+ ,horse ,pass1 & !n1 aft] desc5d+ into ! deep tr5* ( ! ,columbia ,riv]1 passes ?r\gh ! v he>t ( ! ,selkirk ,range4 ,climb+ has n[ be5 c>ri$ on cont9u\sly & sy/ematically = ne>ly ?irty ye>s among ! m\nta9s adjac5t to ?is railway bo? 9 ! ma9 *a9 & 9 ! ,selkirks4 ,x w be conv5i5t to deal at once ) ! region "h indicat$1 :i* w be ref]r$ to z ! ,c4,p4,r4 di/rict4 ,x is ! only region :]e at ! pres5t mom5t conditions prevail at all resembl+ ^? ( ! ,european ,alps1 & climb+ )9 its limits is q a diff]5t affair f climb+ else:]e 9 ,canada4 ,a climb] wi%+ to see some?+ ( ! m\nta9s ( ,canada1 :o has n ample "t at 8 disposal aft] arriv+ among !m--,i %\ld be incl9$ to say at ! v lea/ a mon?--w\ld be well advis$ to conf9e himself to ! ,c4,p4,r4 di/rict1 mak+1 p]haps1 "o %ort trip ( ! k9d m5tion$ bel[4 ,he w\ld f9d en\gh1 & m ?an en\gh1 to occupy him4 ,sid5ote3 ,! #8,c4,p4,r4' ,di/rict4 ,tak+ ! ma9 *a9 fir/1 ! ext5t ( ! ,c4,p4,r4 di/rict may be tak5 to be ! area dealt ) 9 ,ba$ek]'s ,canada 7#aijg71 :i* conta9s ab\t t5 pages pack$ ) accurate & highly cond5s$ in=mation4 ,! alp9e p>ticul>s giv5 are ma9ly bas$ on *apt]s i4 to ix4 ( ,9 ! ,he>t ( ! ,canadian ,rockies1 by ! ,rev4 ,sir ,james ,outram1 :o has be5 ov] almo/ ! :ole di/rict & has supplem5t$ 8 own exp]i5ces by copi\s extracts f ! orig9al n>ratives ( ,dr4 ,collie1 ,mr4 ,wilcox1 & ! memb]s ( ! ,appala*ian ,m\nta9 ,club4#cg ,! railway ent]s ! m\nta9s f ! ea/ by ! valley ( ! ,b[ ,riv]1 ! pr9cipal con/itu5t ( ! ,s\? ,saskat*ewan1 & soon aft]w>ds arrives at ,banff4 ,! excell5t ,c4,p4,r4 ,banff ,spr+s ,hotel is ! mo/ frequ5t$ place 9 ! ,rockies2 b ,banff itself is n a m\nta9e]+ c5tre1 ?\gh ,dr4 ,collie discov]$ a good rock climb 9 ! neighb\rhood on ,m\nt ,edi?1 & d\btless o!rs might be f\nd4#ch ,x is1 h[ev]1 ( int]e/ to climb]s z ! site ( ! ,club ,h\se ( ! ,alp9e ,club ( ,canada 7( :i* m anon71 & z ! />t+-po9t = ,m\nt ,ass9ibo9e4 ,?is peak is ! highe/ to ! s\? ( ! railway1 & its asc5t is a v f9e exp$ition4 ,giv5 fav\rable conditions x c be rea*$ & climb$1 & ! return j\rney to ,banff complet$1 )9 six days4 ,?is involves travell+ ) a camp outfit & pack-horses2 b x w\ld be well wor? :ile = a climb] visit+ ,canada = ! fir/ "t to make "o su* trip 7& ?is "o is probably ! mo/ repay+71 =1 besides be+ pleasant & int]e/+ 9 itself1 x w\ld give him mu* useful exp]i5ce 9 case he contemplat$ return+ ano!r ye>1 & mak+ a m ext5d$ j\rney (f ! beat5 track4 ,soon aft] leav+ ,banff1 ! valley ( ! ,b[ ,riv] runs p>allel ) ! ma9 *a91 pass+ ,/orm ,m\nta9 & ,m\nt ,ball1 :i* c be rea*$ via ! ,v]milion ,pass 9 two days f ,banff4#ci ,?irty-five miles beyond ,banff is ,laggan1 :]e ! railway leaves ! ,b[ ,riv]1 & asc5ds by ,ba? ,creek to ! ,kick+ ,horse ,pass4 ,laggan#dj is ! /ation = ,lake ,l\ise1 :]e !re is ano!r fir/-class ,c4,p4,r4 hotel 7#c miles f ! railway71 ! pr9cipal c5tre = ! m\nta9s on ! s\? side ( ! l9e4 ,sev]al ( ^! c be climb$ f ! hotel itself2 & !re may be a p]man5t summ] camp = ! use ( climb]s 9 ! valley ( ! ,t5 ,peaks4 ,if n1 x is easy to h a t5t1 provisions1 etc41 s5t !re f ! hotel4#da ,a simil> arrangem5t c\ld be made ei!r at ,lake ,l\ise or ,field = a camp at ,lake ,o',h>a1 & ?is w\ld br+ )9 easy rea* all ! o!r peaks :i* des]ve att5tion1 except ^? ( ! ,ott]tail ,range4 ,! la/-m5tion$ gr\p is be/ attack$ f ,field1 #af miles beyond ,laggan & #h miles to ! we/ ( ! ,kick+ ,horse ,pass1 :]e !re is ano!r ,c4,p4,r4 hotel1 ! ,m\nt ,/eph5 ,h\se1 ! be/ c5tre = visit+ ! m\nta9s on ! nor? side ( ! railway4 ,besides ! hotel at ,field !re are a *alet hotel on ,em]ald ,lake & two p]man5t summ] camps1 "o at ! ,takakkaw ,falls2 ! o!r1 ,camp ,w>r51 ,i h n be5 able to locate4 ,x is1 ( c\rse1 also possible to approa* ! m\nta9s ( ! ,waputik ,range by mak+ a %ort trip up ! ,b[ ,riv]1 b ! ,yoho & ,em]ald ,valleys seem to be m attractive4 ,f ! climb]'s po9t ( view ^! m\nta9s are di/9ctly inf]ior 9 int]e/ to ^? on ! s\? side ( ! l9e1 & ! same may be said ( ,m\nt ,hector1 ! highe/ summit betwe5 ! ,b[ & ,pipe/one ,valleys4 ,ea/ ( ! ,pipe/one ! m\nta9s ( ! ,pt>migan ,lake di/rict1 j opposite ,laggan1 %\ld be wor? a visit4#db ,! be/ g5]al map t ,i c discov] ( ?is "p ( ! ,c4,p4,r4 di/rict is ! s\!rn %eet ( a map ( 8,! ,rocky ,m\nta9s betwe5 lat4 #ea & lat4 #ec10 publi%$ by ! ,dep>tm5t ( ! ,int]ior4 ,un=tunately1 x comes to an end f\r or five miles %ort ( ,m\nt ,ass9ibo9e4 ,! "p ( x :i* is mat]ial = pres5t purposes is giv5 9 a pamphlet issu$ by ! ,c4,p4,r4 ,company1 entitl$ ,! ,*all5ge ( ! ,m\nta9s4 ,! scale is #d miles to an in*4 ,! l>ge-scale maps accompany+ ! ,report m5tion$ on p4 #egb %[ ! m\nta9s actually =m+ ! wat]%$ 7& ?is includes ! ,ass9ibo9e gr\p7 s\?w>d f ,vulture ,col & ,m\nt ,gordon 9 ! ,waputik ,range4 ,com+ n[ to ! ,selkirks1 ,glaci] ,h\se 7ab\t #ij miles by rail beyond ,field & #c miles beyond ,rog]s ,pass1 :]e ! l9e crosses ! cre/ ( ! range71 is probably ! be/ ( ! c5tres ( ! ,c4,p4,r4 di/rict1 9 s f> t ! l>ge/ numb] ( exp$itions c be c>ri$ out f ! hotel itself1 or ) only "o night out4 ,9 ?is respect ,glaci] ,h\se has v few rivals ev5 9 ,switz]l&4 ,ba$ek] gives a %ort summ>y ( ^! exp$itions & an excell5t little map ( ! m\nta9s1 :i* lit]ally surr\nd ! hotel4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,selkirks4 ,b mu* m ?an ,ba$ek] is available4 ,besides ,mr4 ,palm]'s exhau/ive book 7( :i* m pres5tly71 no visitor to ! ,selkirks %\ld omit to secure a copy ( ,mr4 ,a4 ,o4 ,:eel]'s ,selkirk ,range & ! accompany+ map 9 f\r l>ge %eets1 :i* cov]s a l>ge portion ( ! range on a scale ( practically #a mile to an in*4 ,! topographical in=mation secur$ by ,mr4 ,:eel] dur+ 8 survey is embodi$ 9 ! =m ( a ,climb]s' ,guide 9 *apt] ii4 ( ,! ,selkirk ,m\nta9s1 a ,guide = ,m\nta9 ,pilgrims & ,climb]s1 :]e v full p>ticul>s are giv5 z to ! numb] ( days & nights requir$ = ea* exp$ition1 :e!r pack-horses are available1 etc4 ,huts or cab9s are m5tion$ at ,rog]s ,pass & ! ,caves ( ,*eops4 ,!re seem to be no huts or summ] camps s\? ( ! railway1 & x mu/ be borne 9 m9d t pack-horses _c be tak5 s\?w>d into ! m\nta9s direct f ,glaci] ,h\se4#dc ,! limits 9 ! ,selkirks ( ! ,c4,p4,r4 di/rict c be easily grasp$ by exam9+ toge!r ! map 9 ,ba$ek] & t 9 ! ,climb]s' ,guide 7difficult to read1 b useful z %[+ at a glance ! area compris$ 9 ,mr4 ,:eel]'s l>ge maps74 ,x w be se5 at once t ! latt] cov]s a wid] area1 & 9 p>ticul> has a l>ge ext5sion to ! we/ & s\?-we/1 rea*+ ev5 beyond ! ,columbia ,riv] to ! ,gold ,range--a q indep5d5t gr\p4 ,?is ext5sion seems to come well )9 ! ,c4,p4,r4 di/rict3 "o or two ( ! exp$itions 9 x c be tak5 f ,glaci] ,h\se2 ! rema9d] are treat$ 9 *apt] vi4 ( ! ,guide 9 connection ) ,revel/oke1 :i* accord+ly mu/ be add$ to ! li/ ( ,c4,p4,r4 c5tres4 ,s9ce ! publication ( ! ,guide f9e climb+ has be5 accompli%$ on ,m\nt ,molo* & o!r peaks rea*$ by ! nor? bran* ( ! ,illecillewaet ,riv]4#dd ,! ext5sion ( ,mr4 ,:eel]'s map to ! nor? is unimportant2 ! notices 9 ! ,guide ( ,m\nta9 ,creek & ,m\nt ,pe>ce are n enc\rag+1 &1 s f> z ,glaci] ,h\se is conc]n$1 ! cre/ ( ! ,h]mit ,range =ms ! limit ( ord9>y m\nta9e]+ 9 ?is direction4 ,to ! s\?1 on ! o!r h&1 bo? maps ext5d to regions :i* c only be rea*$ by a j\rney ( "s days1 & sev]al ( ! exp$itions describ$ 9 ! ,guide cle>ly lie outside ! category n[ "u consid]ation4 ,no h>d-&-fa/ l9e c be drawn1 & ! travell] mu/ use 8 own judgm5t2 only1 if he is at all ti$ z to "t1 let him be> 9 m9d t e/imates ( a j\rney's l5g? by little-trodd5 trails are necess>ily v r\gh1 & t :at is call$ a week's trip may easily turn out to require two or ?ree days less or m4 ,sid5ote3 ,guides & ,equipm5t4 ,swiss guides1 to ! numb] ( six or eight1 are import$ e summ] by ! ,c4,p4,r4 ,company1 & endeav\rs are be+ made to induce "s ( !m to settle p]man5tly at ,edelweiss1 ne> ,gold51 on ! ,columbia4 ,!y are di/ribut$ dur+ ! season among ! f\r or five c5tres :i* h be5 m5tion$4 ,anyone desir+ _! s]vices1 ! *>ge = :i* is 7or us$ to be7 #e p] day1 %\ld communicate z e>ly z possible ) ! hotel f :i* he int5ds to climb4 ,a m\nta9e] arriv+ 9 ! ,c4,p4,r4 di/rict ) 8 ord9>y ,swiss outfit c\ld ?us enjoy pl5ty ( climb+ )\t any special prep>ations4 ,ev5 ropes & ice-axes are suppli$ at ,glaci] ,h\se1 &1 probably1 at ! o!r c5tres also4 ,! ,hudson ,bay ,company's excell5t blankets c be procur$ at ,banff1 & = a s+le odd night out b$d+ c\ld probably be borr[$4 ,!re is also pl5ty ( scope = guideless climb+4 ,"s ( ! exp$itions are und\bt$ly difficult1 & only suitable = an exceptionally /rong unguid$ p>ty2 b ?ree reasonably exp]i5c$ amateurs c\ld accompli% a great deal4 ,z comp>$ ) ! ma9 *a91 ! ,selkirks (f] m sn[ & ice "w & less rock "w1 & !re seem to be m climbs ( only mod]ate difficulty ?an 9 ! ,rockies on ! s\? side ( ! railway4 7,= a g5]al comp>ison ( ! ,selkirks ) ! ,rockies1 see ,palm]1 op4 cit4 pp4 #c-aj47 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,nor!rn ,selkirks4 ,turn+ n[ to remot] & less kn[n gr\nd 9 ! ,selkirks1 to ! nor? ( ! railway1 beyond ! ,h]mit & ,cla* na ,cood5 ,ranges1 a v consid]able m\nta9 area is enclos$ 9 ! ,great ,b5d ( ! ,columbia ,riv]4 ,pack-horses _c be us$ 9 x effectively1 & ! conditions ( travel are exceptional & extremely difficult2 b a l>ge "p ( x1 probably ! mo/ int]e/+ "p1 0 explor$ ) extraord9>y p]sev]ance by ,mr4 ,h[>d ,palm]'s p>ty f #aijh to #aiab4 ,only 9 ! latt] ye>1 on _! fif? visit1 did !y succe$ 9 atta9+ ! summit ( ,m\nt ,sir ,s&=d1 ! mon>* ( ! region4 ,= fur!r in=mation ! read] is ref]r$ to "p iii4 ( ,mr4 ,palm]'s ,m\nta9e]+ & ,exploration 9 ! ,selkirks4 ,"p ii4 ( ?is fasc9at+ book is equally valuable z a guide to ! m\nta9s imm$iately s\? ( ,glaci] ,h\se1 :i* h already be5 notic$4 ,beyond ^! a /ill m ext5sive region rema9s to be dealt )4 ,x w h be5 notic$ t ,mr4 ,:eel]'s map1 break+ (f abruptly along mo/ ( its s\!rn m>g9 9 ! v middle ( untrodd5 sn[ fields1 is itself a *all5ge to fur!r exploration4 ,8 "w has be5 c>ri$ a %ort di/ance fur!r by ! asc5ts ( ,m\nt ,beav] & ,m\nt ,duncan1 & "s climbs 9 ! ,battle ,range1 b ! regions beyond are /ill1 s f> z ,i am aw>e1 a t]ra incognita1 & ,i am q unable to say h[ mu* fur!r ! s\!rn portion ( ! ,selkirks prop] cont9ues its alp9e "*4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,purcell ,range4 ,betwe5 ?is s\!rn portion & ! ma9 *a9 ( ! ,rockies is ano!r l>ge m\nta9\s tract =m+ "p ( ! ,selkirks sy/em & kn[n z ! ,purcell ,range1 compris+ ! ,dogtoo?1 ,spillima*e5 & ,s\? ,purcell ,ranges4 ,a r\gh idea ( its ext5t & situation may be obta9$ f ! sket* map accompany+ ,dr4 ,long/aff's pap] 9 ! ,canadian ,alp9e ,j\rnal1#de be>+ 9 m9d t ,m\nts ,beav] & ,duncan rise close to ! wat]%$ betwe5 ! two riv]s :i* also be> ^? names4 ,! ,dogtoo? ,range appe>s to be sub-alp9e1 & is dispos$ ( 9 *apt] v4 ( ! ,guide2 b f ! ,beav]-,duncan divide to ! neighb\rhood ( ,wells ,pass !re is a cont9u\s /ret* ( alp9e c\ntry1 :i* rivals 9 height1 beauty & g5]al int]e/ ! ma9 ,selkirk ,range itself4 ,! ,spillima*e5 ,range has z yet h>dly be5 t\*$1 b s\? ( ,bugaboo ,pass a s]ies ( en]getic campaigns h1 s9ce #aiaj1 be5 c>ri$ on f ! ,upp] ,columbia ,valley4 ,! di/rict is f> f be+ an #8exhau/$' "o1 b ! rem>kable gr\p ( m\nta9s situat$ betwe5 ,horse ,?ief ,creek & ,toby ,creek has be5 ?or\ghly explor$ & mapp$4#df ,sid5ote3 ,"s ,m9or ,ranges4 ,x has be5 said t ! range rapidly loses its int]e/ to ! s\? ( ,wells ,pass1 b x is ra% to make su* a /atem5t 9 ,canada1 :]e ! alp9e area is be+ cont9ually enl>g$ by fre% discov]ies s rapidly t x is difficult to keep pace ) !m4 ,9 illu/ration ( ?is1 ref]5ce may "h be made to an entirely unexpect$ alp9e region f\nd 9 #aiab 9 ,vanc\v] ,isl&1 & to ,dr4 ,a4 ,p4 ,coleman's rec5t explorations 9 ! ,torngats 7,labrador7 on ! o!r side ( ! cont95t4#dg ,ano!r outly+ di/rict :i* des]ves m5tion1 ?\gh n s rec5t a discov]y1 is ! ,g>ibaldi ,range1 ne> ,vanc\v] ,city4#dh ,sid5ote3 ,! ,ma9 ,*a9 f ,laggan to ,jasp]4 ,return+ n[ to ! ma9 *a91 !re is no?+ to be add$1 s f> z ! s\? side ( ! ,c4,p4,r4 is conc]n$1 to :at has be5 already said4 ,!re rema9s ! ma9 *a9 to ! nor?1 :i* falls naturally into two sections--t ly+ beyond ! ,g4,t4,p4 railway1 & t situat$ betwe5 ! two railways1 ! l>ge/1 & 9 _m respects ! mo/ int]e/+1 ( all ! areas ) :i* we h to deal4 ,?is section1 or r t "p ( x ly+ s\? ( ! ,a?abasca ,pass1 0 divid$ by ,dr4 ,norman ,collie#di into f\r ma9 gr\ps3 7#a7 ,! ,balf\r 7or ,waputik7 gr\p1 betwe5 ! ,kick+ ,horse ,pass & ,h[se ,pass2 7#b7 ! ,=bes gr\p1 betwe5 ,h[se ,pass & ,?ompson ,pass1 #cj miles f>!r nor?2 7#c7 ! ,columbia gr\p1 ext5d+ ov] ! #ce miles f ,?ompson ,pass to ,=tress ,lake ,pass2 7#d7 ! ,m\nt ,hook] gr\p1 betwe5 ! ,=tress ,lake ,pass & ! ,a?abasca ,pass1 #be miles f>!r4 ,sir ,j4 ,outram's divisions & subdivisions1#ej s f> z !y are c>ri$1 practically co9cide ) ^? ( ,dr4 ,collie4 ,to ^! mu/ n[ be add$ a fif? gr\p1 ! m\nta9s betwe5 ! ,a?abasca & ,yell[head ,passes1 :i* may be call$ ! ,edi? ,cavell gr\p4 ,z f> z ! ,a?abasca ,pass ! range has a v def9ite we/]n b\nd>y consi/+ ( ! great tr5* ( ! ,columbia ,riv]1 & x is ?is portion ( x :i* ,sir ,j4 ,outram ref]s to :5 he says ! ,rockies are #fj miles 9 bread?4 ,at ! ,a?abasca ,pass ! range connects ) ! mass ( m\nta9s t sep>ate ! ,columbia & ,fras] ,riv] bas9s1 & f ?is po9t nor?w>d no precise /atem5t z to ! bread? ( ! *a9 is possible4 ,( ! gr\ps above m5tion$ ! fir/ falls )9 ! ,c4,p4,r4 di/rict1 & has be5 already dealt )2 ! second & ?ird 7 ! sc5e ( mu* climb+ & exploration f #ahih to #aijb1 9 :i* ! lead+ "p 0 play$ by ,dr4 ,collie4 ,he & ,mr4 ,/utfield h describ$ 8 ?ree exp$itions 9 ,climbs & ,exploration 9 ! ,canadian ,rockies1 "o ( ! ,alp9e classics ( ,canada4 ,! :ole ( ?is exploratory "w is well summ>iz$ 9 ! second half 7*apt]s x4-xv47 ( ,sir ,j4 ,outram's book4 ,s9ce t "t ! en]gies ( pione]s h be5 div]t$ 9 o!r directions1 & few1 if any1 additions h be5 made to our k ( ! region4#ea ,! cr$it ( hav+ mapp$ x belongs to ,dr4 ,collie2 all subsequ5t maps are bas$ on 82 ! only ext5sions ( importance are due to ,dr4 ,a4 ,p4 ,coleman4#eb ,a /udy ( ! records w %[ t !re is /ill pl5ty ( scope = exploration 9 gr\ps #c & #d1 & if fir/ asc5ts are n ! pr9cipal object1 gr\ps #b1 #c & #d probably (f] z f9e a field = climb+ z any di/rict 9 ,canada4 ,attempts h be5 made to approa* ! cre/ ( ! range f ! we/ by ! lat]al valleys desc5d+ to ! ,columbia ,riv]1 b ! travell+ prov$ to be exceptionally bad ev5 = ! ,rockies1 & ?is l9e ( attack is only m5tion$ to be dismiss$4 ,! explorations above m5tion$ 7 c>ri$ on :olly on ! ea/]n side ( ! range1 & ! r\te g5]ally foll[$ holds s important a place 9 m\nta9e]+ geography t x mu/ be describ$ 9 "s detail4 ,/>t+ f ,laggan1 x asc5ds ! valley ( ! ,b[ ,riv]1 runn+ p>allel to ! ,waputik ,range1 to ! ,b[ ,pass4 ,!nce x desc5ds into ! bas9 ( ! ,nor? ,saskat*ewan by ! s\? bran* ( t riv] 7also call$ ,be> ,creek1 &1 m r>ely1 ! ,mi/aya ,riv]71 & leaves x aga9 by ! nor? bran*4 ,bo? ^! /reams1 z _! names sugge/1 also run p>allel to ! ma9 *a94 ,at ! head ( ! nor? bran* ! ,wilcox ,pass leads to ! valley ( ! ,a?abasca1 :i* also runs ne>ly due nor?1 & is foll[$ till ! ,g4,t4,p4 ,railway is rea*$ at ,jasp]4 ,! #8air l9e' f ,laggan to ,jasp] is j #acj miles1 & a good idea ( ! scale & "* ( ! j\rney may be =m$ by comp>+ x ) t f ,*ur to ,m>tigny1 :i* are almo/ precisely ! same di/ance ap>t4 ,/>t+ f ,*ur1 ! ,vord]rhe9 repres5ts ! ,upp] ,b[1 & ! ,ob]alp ! ,b[ ,pass4 ,! ,reuss corresponds to ! ,nor? ,saskat*ewan1 ! ,furca to ,wilcox ,pass1 & ! ,rhone to ! ,a?abasca4 ,9 ea* case ! ma9 *a9 is on ! travell]'s left h&1 :ile o!r ranges ( v>y+ size & importance rise on 8 "r1 ?\gh1 un=tunately1 ! ,rockies h no?+ comp>able to ! ,b]nese ,ob]l&4 ,( c\rse !re is no correspond5ce1 9 po9t ( di/ance1 betwe5 ! int]v5+ po9ts4 ,v r\ghly speak+1 x is #gj miles to ,wilcox ,pass1 ! valleys ( ! ,upp] ,b[ & ! two bran*es ( ! ,saskat*ewan be+ ea* a little ov] #bj miles 9 l5g?1 :ile x is ab\t #fj miles f ,wilcox ,pass to ,jasp]4 ,! e>ly explor]s all />t$ f ,laggan1 & only "o ( !m1 ,dr4 ,coleman1#ec foll[$ ! r\te "h describ$ ?r\gh\t its :ole l5g?4 ,x is sc>cely necess>y to po9t out h[ enorm\sly its importance & value h be5 enhanc$ by ! con/ruction ( ! second l9e ( railway4 ,! gr\ps m5tion$ above are progressively m imp]fectly kn[n z "o moves f>!r nor?1 ma9ly ow+ to ! difficulty ( "t & ! necessity :i* =m]ly exi/$ ( a long return j\rney4 ,! m\nta9s nor? ( ,wilcox ,pass c n[ be mu* m rapidly & easily rea*$ f ,jasp]4 ,^? :i* enclose ! ,:irlpool ,riv] are /ill almo/ unt\*$1 & w\ld well repay a prolong$ visit4 ,! be/ l9e ( attack = ^? on ! left bank 7! fif? or ,edi? ,cavell gr\p7 w\ld probably be f\nd by go+ ?r\gh ! depression to ! we/ ( ,m\nt ,edi? ,cavell4 ,! asc5t f ! ,:irlpool trail to x is /eep1 b a good pack] c\ld get horses up x4 ,m\nt ,edi? ,cavell 0 approa*$ by ?is r\te & climb$ by ,mr4 ,e4 ,d4 ,holway 9 #aiae4 ,"s ( ! m\nta9s to ! we/ ( ! depression look difficult4#ed ,on ! opposite side ( ! ,:irlpool1 :i* 9 its ord9>y condition is =dable "h1 a l>ge valley runn+ deeply into ! m\nta9s on ! "r bank looks well adapt$ to facilitate ! exploration ( ! blank space on ,dr4 ,coleman's map betwe5 ! ,:irlpool & ,wood ,riv]s2 horses c\ld probably be tak5 up x4 ,! />t+-po9t = ?is valley or = ! ,edi? ,cavell depression c be rea*$ 9 ?ree days f ,jasp]4#ee ,close to ! ,yell[head ,pass1 ,m\nt ,fitzwilliam1 a prom95t rock peak1 mu/ be ( exceptional int]e/ z a view-po9t1 & may be a good climb z well4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,gr\ps ,ea/ ( ! ,ma9 ,*a94 ,( ! gr\ps situat$ to ! ea/ ( ! ma9 *a91 ! "o betwe5 ! ,b[ & ,saskat*ewan ,riv]s c be trav]s$ by ! ,pipe/one ,creek & ,pass & ,siffleur ,creek4 ,?is r\te1 :i* rea*es ! ,saskat*ewan a few miles bel[ ! conflu5ce ( its nor? & s\? bran*es1 0 sev]al times us$ z an alt]native to t by ! ,b[ ,pass2 & !re are transv]se passes f ! ,upp] ,b[ ,valley to bo? ! ,pipe/one & ! ,siffleur ,creeks1 b ! e>ly explor]s seem to h f\nd no great inducem5ts to l+] 9 ?is region4#ef ,a mu* l>g] block ( m\nta9s is t :i* sep>ates ! ,saskat*ewan f ! ,a?abasca1 & gives rise to its important tribut>y1 ! ,brazeau2 its s\!rn portion 0 cross$ 9 ?ree or f\r directions by ,dr4 ,coleman1#eg :o is ! only au?ority on x t ,i h come across4 ,9 ! nor!rn portion1 betwe5 ,m\nt ,brazeau & ! ,a?abasca1 is ,maligne ,lake1 rea*$ 9 #aijh by ,mrs4 ,s*ff]'s p>ty1#eh ! fir/ :ite visitors1 via ,poboktan ,creek1 & probably also accessible by a pass ne>ly opposite ! m\? ( ! ,:irlpool ,valley4 ,! few p :o h visit$ ,maligne ,lake are rem>kably en?usia/ic ab\t x1 &1 judg+ f photographs1 ! peaks r\nd its head %\ld prove v int]e/+ to climb]s4 ,mu* m is likely to be he>d ( !m 9 ! ne> future1 z ! l[] end ( ! lake is only fifte5 miles f ,jasp] by ! valley--hi!rto impassable = horses--( ! ,maligne ,riv]1 up :i* a trail w c]ta9ly be made v %ortly1 if x has n be5 already complet$1 & ! results ( fur!r inve/igation w h an important effect on ! reputation ( ,jasp] z a c5tre4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,ma9 ,*a9 ,nor? ( ! ,g4,t4,p4 ,we n[ come to ! m\nta9s nor? ( ! ,g4,t4,p4 ,railway1 :i* spread ov] an ext5sive & indef9ite area1 ( :i* our pres5t k may be describ$ z consid]able b pat*y4 ,m\nt ,robson1 ! magnet :i* fir/ drew explor]s "h 9 ! pre-railway days1 is1 & mu/ rema91 ! pr9cipal c5tre ( int]e/4 ,x is ! great alp9e asset ( ! ,g4,t4,p41 & an hotel w probably soon arise some:]e ne> ,m\nt ,robson ,/ation1 opposite ! m\? ( ! ,gr& ,=ks ,riv]1 a tribut>y ( ! ,fras]4 ,up ! ,gr& ,=ks ,valley ! base ( its we/]n face--! be/ l9e ( asc5t--c n[ be rea*$ 9 a long half-day1 by rail & trail1 f ,jasp]4 ,v full in=mation ) reg>d to ?is great peak1 ! highe/ 9 ! ,canadian ,rockies1 & its satellites & surr\nd+s1 is n[ available1 b x w\ld take too long to deal ) x "h4#ei ,swift ,curr5t ,creek & two or ?ree o!r valleys desc5d+ into ! ,fras] bel[ ! ,gr& ,=ks 7 visit$ by ,mr4 ,holway 9 #aiae & #aiaf2 he reports3 8,a wond]ful field = exploration1 especially 9 ! big b5d ( ! ,fras]40 ,! same en]getic explor] paid a brief visit 9 #aiaf to ! ,c>iboo ,range1 on ! o!r side ( ! ,fras]1 probably ! mo/ important ( ! indep5d5t m9or ranges4#fj ,! ma9 wat]%$ imm$iately to ! nor? ( ,m\nt ,robson 7,robson ,pass7 consi/s ( a long flat pla91 s level t ! wat] issu+ f ! ,robson ,glaci] fl[s bo? ways4 ,all climb+ hi!rto has be5 done f camps on ?is pla91 :i* 0 =m]ly inaccessible1 except by actual climb+1 f ! mu* l[] ,gr& ,=ks ,valley1 & atta9able only by a r\ndab\t r\te f ! ea/ via ! ,moose ,riv] & ,pass4 ,x c n[ be rea*$ via ! ,gr& ,=ks by a trail eng9e]$ 9 #aiac1 9 sev5 or eight h\rs f ,m\nt ,robson ,/ation4 ,if an asc5t ( ,m\nt ,robson itself be ! sole object1 x w\ld probably be ! quicke/ way--z above sugge/$--to g up to a biv\ac direct f ! ,gr& ,=ks ,valley2 b ! high] camp+-gr\nd on ! divide is mu* ! be/ c5tre = explor+ ! neighb\rhood g5]ally4 ,! r\nd trip by ! ,moose ,riv] r\te is also wor? mak+ = its own sake1 especially if "t p]mits ( "s climb+ be+ done on ! way4 ,!re are int]e/+ exp$itions to be made ne> ! ,moose ,pass3 ,respl5d5t ,valley1 at ! head ( ! ,we/ ,=k ( ! ,moose ,riv]1 is well wor? a visit1 &1 ?\gh ! actual l9e ( ! divide has be5 laid d[n by ,mr4 ,:eel]1 !re is /ill exploratory "w to be done among ! m\nta9s betwe5 ! ,ea/ ,=k & ,grant ,creek4 ,= ! :ole ( ?is region ,mr4 ,:eel]'s map#fa is indisp5sable4 ,! m\nta9s fac+ ,m\nt ,robson imm$iately on ! o!r side ( ! level pla9 above m5tion$ h all be5 climb$1 b beh9d ^! !re is a rem>kable region :i* is /ill v little kn[n4 ,! range duplicates itself 9 a curi\s way difficult to expla9 on pap]1 enclos+ a l[ plateau1 along :i*1 /range to say1 ! ma9 divide seems to run4 ,on ! ea/]n side ( ! plateau is ! ,*[n gr\p1 fir/ visit$ by ,dr4 ,collie's p>ty 9 #aiaa4fb ,our fur!r k ( ! c\ntry 9 ?is direction is ma9ly due to ,donald ,phillips1 :o has made a r\gh sket*-map ext5d+ consid]ably f>!r nor?1#fc & conduct$ ?ree exp$itions f>!r /ill1 ?r\gh v difficult c\ntry1 to ,m\nt ,sir ,alex&]#fd & ,j>vis ,pass4 ,?is is ! f>!/ nor? yet rea*$ by climb]s4 ,:e!r !re are any alp9e regions beyond x is1 ,i believe1 q unc]ta94 ,nor? ( ! ,yell[head ,pass !re are no blocks ( m\nta9s to ! ea/ ( ! ma9 *a91 & def9itely sep>at$ f x1 ( a "* at all comp>able to ^? f\nd betwe5 ! ,g4,t4,p4 & ! ,c4,p4,r42 b !re is a consid]able area ly+ j outside ! limits ( ,mr4 ,:eel]'s map1 & %[n z a blank on ,dr4 ,collie's map1 closely connect$ ) ! divide itself1 :i* w\ld c]ta9ly repay f>!r exploration1 & is )9 fairly easy rea* ( ,jasp]4 ,!re are ?ree possible l9es ( attack3 ,fir/ x may be possible to approa* x f ! we/1 by ! ,miette ,riv]2 secondly1 !re is ! valley ( ! ,sn>+ ,riv]1 :i* jo9s ! ,a?abasca a few miles bel[ ,jasp]3 :atev] else he may f9d !re1 all ! *>m ( ! unexpect$ awaits ! fir/ visitor to its my/]i\s upp] bas94 ,x is said to be v difficult1 if n impossible1 ( access1 b ! attempt w\ld be well wor? mak+4 ,anyone contemplat+ x %\ld1 be=e />t+1 make ! asc5t ( ,pyramid ,peak at ! head ( ,jasp] ,lake1 & c>efully note :at he sees f !re4 ,la/ly1 !re is ! mu* l>g] ,/ony ,riv]1#fe :i* ent]s ! ,a?abasca bel[ ,jasp] ,lake1 & %\ld provide a happy hunt+-gr\nd to a climb] ) topographical incl9ations4 ,! s\!rn bran* already ref]r$ to calls mo/ urg5tly = att5tion1 b high] up ! ma9 valley sev]al f9e glaci]s (f] tempt+ roads to ! skyl9e4 ,a pass at ! head ( ! ma9 ,/ony leads to ! ,smoky ,riv]1 :i* x /rikes j opposite ! ,*[n gr\p1 & ?us supplies an attractive ?\gh l5g?y alt]native r\te to ! ,robson region4 ,!re are "s wild & /rik+ rock peaks on ! "r h& ( ! travell] cross+ ?is pass f ,jasp]1 b ap>t f ^!1 !re is no?+ beyond ! ,/ony ,riv] ( any int]e/ to a climb]4 ,an attempt on t rem>kable m\nta91 ! ,ro*e ,miette1 is record$ 9 ! ,canadian ,alp9e ,j\rnal1 ix4 #ada4 ,sid5ote3 ,modes & ,mann]s ( ,travel4 ,travel away f ! railway1 z has already be5 indicat$1 means travell+ ) a camp outfit & a pack-tra94 ,! bus9ess ( #8pack+' is a highly organiz$ "o1 & x is a vocation :i*1 9 untrodd5 c\ntry at lea/1 makes z sev]e dem&s z t ( a guide1 & m v>i$ 9 "*1 on ! c\rage & res\rcefulness ( ^? :o foll[ x4 ,! pack]s1 inde$1 hold a position :i* pres5ts _m analogies to t ( guides 9 ! ,alps1 & a fir/-rate pack]1 l a fir/-rate guide1 is a treasure beyond all price4 ,x may be z well to m5tion "h1 = ! b5efit ( ^? :o h n visit$ ! ,rockies1 t !y are a v indep5d5t set ( m51 & t ! social di/9ctions :i* are univ]sally tak5 = grant$ 9 ,europe simply d n exi/ = !m4 ,! soon] & m completely ! travell] c get himself into ! same m5tal attitude on ?is po9t1 ! m pleasantly w he f>e4 ,he w also discov]1 if he keeps 8 eyes & e>s op51 t !re is a v well-def9$1 unwritt5 code ( camp mann]s1 ( :i* ! out/&+ rules are3 ,nev] grumble2 nev] be impati5t2 nev] tell anybody to d any?+1 always ask him4 ,! usual way ( mak+ arrangem5ts ) a pack] is to in=m him1 z long z possible be=eh&1 ( ! numb] ( ! p>ty & ! propos$ duration ( ! trip4 ,he !n takes *>ge ( ev]y?+1 provid+ saddle-horses1 pack-horses1 t5ts1 cook+ equipm5t1 provisions1 etc41 = a fix$ sum p] day3 ! only ?+ :i* ! travell] is expect$ to provide is 8 b$d+4 ,9 ! ,c4,p4,r4 di/rict pack+ is n[ almo/ :olly 9 ! h&s ( ! ,brew/] ,transf] ,co4 ,ltd41 ^: head-qu>t]s are at ,lake ,l\ise4 ,!y h a good reputation1 & are said to provide good m54 ,_! usual rates are--= "o p]son #ae p] day2 = two p]sons #ab4ej = ea* p]son2 & #aj p] day = ?ree p]sons1 8) lib]al r$uction = l>g] p>ties40 ,outside ! ,c4,p4,r4 di/rict pack+ is /ill a matt] ( individual private ent]prise2 "s ( ! pack]s :o =m]ly work$ 9 ! ,c4,p4,r4 di/rict h migrat$ to ,jasp]1 & probably o!rs w make x _! head-qu>t]s z "t goes on2 b at pres5t ! pr9cipal c5tre ( ! pack]s ( ,nor!rn ,alb]ta is at ,lac ,/4 ,anne1 ne> ,edmonton4 ,_! ord9>y *>ges are ab\t ! same z ^? ( ! ,brew/] ,company4 7,n4,b4--,writt5 9 #aiac2 *>ges may n[ be high]47 ,sid5ote3 ,outfit4 ,a few sugge/ions ) reg>d to "s ( ! above-m5tion$ items may be useful4 #a4 ,hav+ once tri$ ! exp]im5t ( disp5s+ ) saddle-horses1 p>tly on g5]al ascetic pr9ciples1 p>tly ) a view to gett+ into tra9+1 ,i h no hesitation 9 say+ t x is a great mi/ake4 ,if "o keeps ) ! re/ ( ! outfit1#ff x is dre>y "w2 if "o goes at "o's own "t & pace1 tr\ble arises :5 riv]s h to be cross$--ei!r ! travell] has to wait = ! outfit or ! outfit = ! travell] 7& to *eck a lot ( pack-horses :5 on ! move is a tiresome matt]72 :ile x is surpris+ly easy = ! unw>y p$e/rian to lose t\* ) ! outfit altoge!r1 ev5 on su* a well-trodd5 trail z ! ,jasp] trail 9 pre-railway days4 #b4 ,! travell] %\ld make sure t "o ( ! t5ts is a teepee4#fg ,dur+ a spell ( cold1 wet wea!r 7& ev5 sn[ is sometimes enc\nt]$ 9 ,augu/ at q l[ levels7 a teepee makes ?+s mu* less intol]able4 ,a pack] ) a l>ge & v>i$ exp]i5ce ( bo? summ] & w9t] travel told me he pref]r$ a l>ge ord9>y t5t ) a /ove4 ,i h no p]sonal exp]i5ce ( ?is1 b "o or ! o!r is ess5tial4 ,! o!r t5ts provid$ by ! pack]s satisfy all ord9>y requirem5ts1 b are sometimes inadequate "u /ress ( prolong$ wet wea!r4 ,i once took a ,:ymp] t5t made ( extra light mat]ial1 :i*1 besides be+ absolutely wat]tight1 possess$ two great advantages3 fir/1 x _h a floor2 secondly1 x c\ld be put up imm$iately on arriv+ 9 camp3 o!r t5ts h to wait till ! necess>y poles c be cut d[n1 & a good _m o!r ?+s h to be att5d$ to be=e ?is c be done4 ,! drawback to x--a s]i\s "o--0 t ! poles 7 inconv5i5tly long = pack+ purposes3 ?is might p]haps be got ov] by mak+ ! poles ) two jo9ts in/ead ( "o4 ,a small ,mumm]y t5t = mak+ a fly+ camp is n requir$ s (t5 z alp9e exp]i5ce w\ld lead "o to expect1 b on ! :ole x is wor? tak+4 #c4 ,z to clo?+1 ! same sort is requir$ z 9 ! ,alps4 ,x is well to be> 9 m9d t "o sp5ds m "t--g5]ally mu* m "t--#8on ! trail' ?an 9 climb+1 & heavily nail$ climb+ boots are n v suitable = rid+2 !y are apt to /ick 9 ! /irrups1 :i* might easily be a s\rce ( great dang] 9 case ( a fall4 ,%oot+ boots ) ord9>y 7n project+7 nails are mu* bett] = an ord9>y day's travel4 ,gloves are useful 9 rid+ ?r\gh ?ick =e/1 & a silk neck]*ief is "s protection aga9/ mosquitoes4 ,=tnum ,mason1 ,j]myn ,/reet1 ,london1 h a good camp boot :i* is also useful = ?is purpose4 ,ei!r a mack9to% or a suit ( #8oilies' is indisp5sable = rid+ 9 wet wea!r4 #8,oilies' are a m complete protection aga9/ ra91 b difficult to get 9 & out ( quickly1 & appall+ly hot :5 ! "* ( ! trail makes x necess>y to dism\nt & walk4 ,on ! :ole1 a mack9to% is to be pref]r$4 ,= b$d+1 a c\ple ( blankets are all t is requir$ 9 f9e wea!r2 spruce b\ghs make a p]fect mattress4 ,b !re is mu* to be said 9 fav\r ( a camp-b$1 especially if ! t5t has no floor to x4 ,) an ,x-b$1 a sleep+-bag & a blanket any wea!r c be fac$ ) equanimity1 & ! extra weight ( ! b$ is n a matt] ( importance4 ,x is mu* m necess>y t ! packages conta9+ "o's p]sonal baggage %\ld be tightly pack$1 compact & easy to h&le1 ?an t !y %\ld be light4 ,a c\ple ( suit-cases 7pref]ably ( cru%$ cane7 n m ?an #bf in*es long1 hold all t is want$ = a two mon?s' trip1 & g well on ea* side ( a pack-saddle4 ,a *ilam*i#fh ( ! ,indian type is useful1 b r unwieldy2 x is easy to get a r small] bas9 7pref]ably n enamell$7 at ! ,army & ,navy ,/ores1 & h a lea!r case specially made = x4 #d4 ,camp+ out is v ext5sively practis$ 9 ,canada1 & x is q unnecess>y to ?9k ( tak+ out any special luxuries f ,engl& 9 ! way ( provisions4 ,any?+ ( t nature1 also :isky ( excell5t quality1 & cig>s 7good & *eap71 c be obta9$ at ! ,hudson ,bay ,company's ,/ores at ,edmonton or ,calg>y4 ,z to provisions g5]ally1 pack]s usually h a v good idea ( :at is want$2 b if "o has any special pref]5ces--e4g4 = cocoa or c(fee ov] tea--x is z well to m5tion !m4 ,sid5ote3 ,season4 ,! season = climb+ 9 ,canada & wea!r conditions g5]ally are1 r\ghly speak+1 simil> to ^? 9 ! ,alps2 b ! season closes r e>li]1 & ! spell ( f9e wea!r :i* is s (t5 met ) 9 ! ,alps e>ly 9 ,septemb] does n seem to occur !re4 ,:5 well-trodd5 gr\nd is left1 x mu/ be borne 9 m9d t riv]s are m likely to be tr\blesome e>ly 9 ! summ] 7i4e4 till t[>ds ! end ( ,july7 ?an lat] on2 b q insignificant creeks may sudd5ly become impassable ob/acles = a day or two at any "t4 ,trails1 moreov]1 :i* are n regul>ly us$ (t5 det]iorate1 &1 z 0 rem>k$ above1 sn[/orms sometimes make travel tempor>ily impossible ev5 9 ,augu/4 ,! moral ( all :i* is1 t x is ra% to try & "w out cut-&-dri$ plans be=eh&1 s f> z dates & times are conc]n$4 ,sid5ote3 ,! ,annual ,camps4 ,no acc\nt ( m\nta9e]+ 9 ,canada w\ld be complete :i* omitt$ to make m5tion ( ! ,alp9e ,club ( ,canada1 & ! annual camps ( its memb]s 9 ! m\nta9s1 :i* inde$ h become ! out/&+ feature ( m\nta9e]+ z practis$ by ,canadians !mselves4 ,!y are usually held t[>ds ! end ( ,july1 & la/ = eight or t5 days4 ,!y are necess>ily situat$ ne> "o or o!r ( ! railways1 b _! area is sometimes ext5d$ by ! =mation ( subsidi>y camps1 & p>ties = m di/ant exp$itions are frequ5tly =m$ :5 ! camp breaks up4 ,a climb] int5d+ to make a fir/ acqua9tance ) ! ,rockies c\ld n d s 9 a pleasant] & m pr(itable mann] ?an by pay+ a visit to "o ( ^! camps1 & = ?is & _m o!r reasons he w\ld be well advis$ to become a memb] ( ! club4 ,! cordial welcome (f]$ to ,engli% m\nta9e]s g5]ally1 & to memb]s ( ! ,alp9e ,club 9 p>ticul>1 mu/ be exp]i5c$ 9 ord] to be prop]ly appreciat$1 & x is h>dly necess>y to po9t out t ! camps give an unequall$ opportunity ( obta9+ fir/-h& in=mation f ! mo/ au?oritative s\rces ) reg>d to topography1 new exp$itions1 me?ods ( travel & simil> matt]s4 ,if a visit to ! camp 0 n practicable1 ! travell]1 z a memb] ( ! club1 c\ld procure advice & assi/ance f its (ficials & o!r memb]s :i* w\ld o!rwise be unatta9able4 ,sid5ote3 ,access1 ,co/1 etc4 ,) reg>d to ! j\rney f ,engl&1 ! foll[+ p>ticul>s 7 giv5 9 ! invitation issu$ to memb]s ( ! 7,engli%7 ,alp9e ,club 9 #aiac3 8,! /eam] f>e1 fir/ class1 f ,liv]pool to ,montreal is #ah1 #ajs4 ea* way 7#aa by "o-class boats74 8,! co/ ( return ticket1 fir/ class1 f ,montreal to ,laggan 7,c4,p4,r47 is #ac4 ,! extra *>ge = a b]? 9 a sleep+-c> is #f = ! d\ble j\rney4 8,! co/ ( return ticket1 fir/ class1 f ,montreal to ,m\nt ,robson ,/ation 7,g4,t4,p47 is #ad4 ,! extra *>ge = a b]? 9 a sleep+-c> is ab\t #f1 #ajs4 = ! d\ble j\rney4 8,! "t occupi$ by ! j\rney f ,liv]pool to ,m\nt ,robson or ,laggan ,/ations is t5 to elev5 days40 ,n4,b4--,! voyage 9 "o-class boats takes "s days long]4 ,a b]? 9 ! sleep+-c> is practically indisp5sable4 ,two p]sons tak+ a #8comp>tm5t' c make ! j\rney 9 f> great] com=t at an additional exp5se ( #b1 #cs4 ea*4 ,! "t & f>es to ,jasp] w\ld be r less ?an to ,m\nt ,robson4 ,! times f ,liv]pool to ,laggan or ,m\nt ,robson ,/ations are %ort1 & involve h>d & cont9u\s travell+4 ,full p>ticul>s1 toge!r ) pamphlets1 descriptive "t-tables1 etc41 c be obta9$ at ! ,london (fices ( ! ,c4,p4,r4 & ! ,g4,t4,p41 bo? 9 ,cockspur ,/reet1 ,london1 )9 "o hundr$ y>ds ( ea* o!r4 ,! only alt]native r\te to ,montreal ( any importance is t via ,new ,york1 z to :i* see ,ba$ek]'s ,canada4 ,,footnotes3 #cf ,see ,report ( ! ,commission appo9t$ to det]m9e ! ,b\nd>y betwe5 ! ,prov9ces ( ,alb]ta & ,briti% ,columbia1 "p i4 7#aiag74 ,x is illu/rat$ by num]\s photographs & accompani$ by _m l>ge-scale maps4 ,a summ>y ( x is giv5 9 ! ,alp9e ,j\rnal1 xxxii4 #cg ,climbs & ,exploration 9 ! ,canadian ,rockies1 by ,h4 ,e4 ,m4 ,/utfield & ,j4 ,norman ,collie2 ,camp+ 9 ! ,canadian ,rockies1 by ,w4 ,d4 ,wilcox2 ,appala*ia1 vols4 viii4 to xi4 #ch ,e4g4 ,m\nt ,l\is1 see ,canadian ,alp9e ,j\rnal1 viii4 #gi1 ix4 #cb2 & ,alp9e ,j\rnal1 xxxii4 #fh2 ,m\nt ,norquay1 ibid4 viii4 #acd4 #ci ,canadian ,alp9e ,j\rnal1 i4 ,no4 #a1 p4 #he1 v4 #abb4 #dj ,! "n ( ! /ation has be5 alt]$ to ,lake ,l\ise1 b x is kn[n z ,laggan 9 all ! books4 #da ,cf4 8,a ,glimpse ( ! ,rockies10 ,alp9e ,j\rnal1 xxiv4 #bbi2 ,canadian ,alp9e ,j\rnal1 x4 #f4 #db ,canadian ,alp9e ,j\rnal1 iv4 #aaj1 #adb1 vii4 #eh1 #abd4 #dc ,see1 on ?is po9t1 ,alp9e ,j\rnal1 xxix4 #ie4 #dd ,canadian ,alp9e ,j\rnal1 v4 #cd1 vii4 #cc1 #dh1 ix4 #ag2 ,palm]1 ,m\nta9e]+ & ,exploration 9 ! ,selkirks1 *4 xx4 #de ,canadian ,alp9e ,j\rnal1 iii4 #bf4 ,see also ,geographical ,j\rnal1 xxxvii4 #ehi1 #fja4 ,mr4 ,:eel]'s promis$ map does n seem to h mat]ializ$4 #df ,canadian ,alp9e ,j\rnal1 iii4 #ad1 #bf1 #adg1 iv4 #ih1 vi4 #ajc1 #aab1 vii4 #ab1 viii4 #ag1 #dc4 #dg ,ibid4 vii4 #e1 #fg1 viii4 #cd4 #dh ,ibid4 iv4 #adj1 viii4 #aba4 #di ,climb+ 9 ! ,himalaya & o!r ,m\nta9 ,ranges1 p4 #add4 ,! :ole ( ?is *apt] on ! ,rockies is /ill well wor? read+4 #ej ,op4 cit4 pp4 #ae-af4 #ea ,mr4 ,eaton made "s new asc5ts 9 ! ,fre%field ,range1 a subdivision ( gr\p #b1 9 #aiaj4 ,canadian ,alp9e ,j\rnal1 iii4 #a4 #eb ,! ,canadian ,rockies1 ,new & ,old ,trails4 ,a delightful book4 #ec ,op4 cit41 *apt]s xxvii4-xxix4 ,see ,canadian ,alp9e ,j\rnal1 v4 #hd1 #hg4 #ed ,alp9e ,j\rnal1 xxviii4 #cee2 ,canadian ,alp9e ,j\rnal1 vi4 #gd1 #hd1 vii4 #fc4 #ee ,mu* new in=mation z to ! c\ntry r\nd ,jasp] is conta9$ 9 an article by ,mr4 ,m4 ,p4 ,bridgl& 9 ! ,canadian ,alp9e ,j\rnal1 x4 #gj2 & ! rec5tly publi%$ ,guide to ,jasp] ,p>k 7see ibid4 #aje7 w\ld probably be f\nd v useful4 #ef ,z to ,m\nt ,hector1 see p4 #egf4 #eg ,see 8 map & book1 *apt]s xvii41 xxi4 & xxvi4 #eh ,canadian ,alp9e ,j\rnal1 iv4 #ib2 ,old ,indian ,trails1 by ,mrs4 ,s*ff]4 #ei ,coleman1 op4 cit41 *apt]s xxx4-xli42 ,geographical ,j\rnal1 xxxvi4 #eg1 xxxix4 #bbc2 ,alp9e ,j\rnal1 xxv4 #bic1 xxvi4 #e1 #chb1 xxvii4 #cbi1 xxx4 #ceh 7summ>y ( ! exp$itions ( #aiac72 ,canadian ,alp9e ,j\rnal1 ii4 "p i4 #a1 "p ii4 #a1 #ba 7asc5t ( ,g4 ,b4 ,k9ney & ,d4 ,phillips71 iv4 #a1 vi4 #aa-gc 7! exp$itions ( #aiac74 #fj ,canadian ,alp9e ,j\rnal1 vii4 #fc1 viii4 #cj1 #acc4 #fa ,alp9e ,j\rnal1 xxvi4 #djd2 ,canadian ,alp9e ,j\rnal1 iv4 #fb ,see 8 map1 ,geographical ,j\rnal1 xxxix4 #cab4 #fc ,canadian ,alp9e ,j\rnal1 vi4 #agh1 #ahf4 #fd ,ibid4 vi4 #agj1 #ahh1 vii4 #hb1 ix4 #gi4 #fe ,see ,dr4 ,collie's map & pap]s1 ,alp9e ,j\rnal1 xxvi1 #e2 ,geographical ,j\rnal1 xxxix4 #bbc4 #ff ,! :ole c>avan--m51 horses1 baggage1 etc4--is g5]ally comp5di\sly ref]r$ to z an #8outfit4' #fg ,a l>ge ,indian t5t 9 :i* a fire c be kept go+4 #fh ,metal bas9 9 a lea!r case4 ,,index ,accid5ts1 m\nta9e]+1 causes (1 #adi1 #bef -- -- h[ to deal )1 #bfd-g -- -- prev5tion (1 #bef-gh -- -- _! effect on o!rs1 #bfd ,afanasief's #ajj ,kaukasus ,gipfel cit$1 #eji1 #eaj ,ailm5ts1 #i ,alp9e ,club ( ,canada1 annual camps ( !1 #eij -- ,ski-+1 ,cal5d> =1 #djb1 #djc1 #def-gj ,alps1 ! ,dolomites ( ! ,ea/]n1 #dg -- ! ,ea/]n1 #bja -- ! ,high1 h9ts = w9t] equipm5t =1 #ddd-f -- -- 9 spr+1 #def-fh -- -- 9 w9t]1 #ddb-ef -- -- sn[ conditions 9 !1 #ddf -- ! ,s\!rn1 #dg ,amateur m\nta9e]1 !1 #ajh1 #aji1 #acd1 #ace1 #acf -- -- improvem5t 9 8 skill1 #aje1 #ajf ,an*or1 !1 #bbj1 #bbc ,an*or+ on a desc5t1 #aia1 #aib ,&orra1 #eei1 #efj ,an]oid1 #ih1 #dde -- ! ,watk91 #ece ,angle ( lie ( sn[1 !1 #cbe1 #cbf1 #cbh1 #cbi -- -- reconnoitr+1 #cge1 #cgf -- ( rock1 #chg1 #chh ,ankle1 "p play$ by !1 9 climb+1 #aeh1 #aei1 #bhi1 #cjc ,anticipation 9 climb+1 importance (1 #aeg1 #aeh ,arctic m\nta9e]+1 #dig-eje ,arms1 use ( !1 9 climb+1 #afa1 #afb ,association among climb]s1 #aej ,automatic actions & adju/m5ts 9 climb+1 #fi1 #gj ,autumn ski-+1 #dfh1 #dfi ,avalan*e gr\nd1 tactics on1 #dci-db ,avalan*e1 liability ( sn[ to1 #cbh ,avalan*es1 #bgc-e -- classification (1 #dbg1 #dbh -- conditions = _! production1 #bgc1 #dbc-g -- dang]s (1 #dbd1 #dbe1 #dbf1 #dcj1 #dcb1 #dcc-h -- dry p[d]1 #dbh1 #dbi -- gr\nd1 #dbc1 #dbg1 #dce -- 9 ,norway1 #ede -- new wet sn[1 #dbi-ca -- old wet sn[1 #dce-h -- p[] (1 #bgd1 #dbh1 #dce1 #dcf -- rock1 #bga -- summ] sn[1 #dch1 #dci -- w9d slab1 #dca-d ,axe1 !1 #ia1 #ib -- z an extra h&1 #bjf1 #bjg -- z a ?ird leg1 #agh1 #bjg1 #bib -- 9 desc5t1 #bjh -- on rocks1 #bjd-h -- on sn[1 #ccf1 #ccg ,ba$ek]'s ,canada cit$1 #egd1 #egg -- ,norway cit$1 #ecf -- ,s4 ,w4 ,france cit$1 #egj ,balait\s1 !1 #eeg ,balance climb+1 #add-h1 #aef1 #aeg -- factors involv$ 91 #bh-cb1 #adj1 #adi1 #aef1 #aeg ,b>omet]4 ,see ,an]oid ,ba?1 ! hot1 #e -- 9 tropics1 #dgi -- morn+1 cold1 #d ,ba?+1 #ab1 #ac1 #ebd1 #ecb ,b$1 portable1 #ii ,beg9n]1 !1 #aac-f1 #aah -- 8 *oice ( tra9]1 #aad1 #aae ,beg9n]s1 initial practice =1 #adh1 #aeb1 #aec2 & see "u ,rope ,beh9d1 ! rope1 #bae ,belay1 ! direct1 #bbj1 #bba -- ! indirect1 #bba1 #bbb ,belays1 #bai-be ,belloc's ,pyr5ees cit$1 #egj ,b5ightm5t1 #eb1 #ec1 #gd1 #ge ,b]gs*rund1 #cag1 #ccg ,bhutan1 #ebg ,bise1 !1 #ddf ,biv\ac1 outfit =1 #ii -- selection ( a1 #ec ,bl9dness1 sn[1 #aa1 #cdc ,bli/]+ f sun1 #aa1 #ab1 #ij1 #ig ,blizz>ds1 dang] (1 #bgf ,body brake1 !1 #aif ,boils1 #dhd1 #dhe ,boots1 #d1 #hj1 #ha1 #hb1 #aec-e -- canvas1 #aee -- c>e (1 #ha1 #hb -- = ! ,himalaya1 #ecd -- = ski-+1 #djb -- nail+1 #hb1 #hc1 #aed1 #aee -- rubb]1 #hi ,boracic p[d] = ! feet1 #e ,bor$om1 #ae1 #af -- ( tramps ov] sn[1 #ccb ,b\ld]+1 #aec1 #aga1 #ahc ,b\m1 !1 #efb ,brakes1 #aie1 #aif -- = glissad+1 #ceh1 #cei ,bree*es1 #hg1 #hh ,brei?orn1 ski-+ on ! ,z]matt1 #cig ,bridges1 ice1 #ccg1 #cch ,bridgl&'s ,guide to ,jasp] ,p>k1 etc41 cit$1 #ehc n4 ,brita91 mi/ & cl\d 91 #chi1 #cij -- rocks 91 #chh1 #chi -- sn[ 91 #cdb ,bruce's ,kulu & ,lah\l cit$1 #ebi ,bucket /eps1 #big ,cal5d> = ,alp9e ,ski-+1 #djb1 #djc1 #def-gj ,cam]a1 ! fold+1 #dga -- ! h&1 #dga1 #dgb -- ! ,v]ascope1 #dgh ,canadian ,pacific ,railway ,di/rict1 !1 #egd-ha ,cante5 = tropics1 #dhg1 #dhh ,canvas boots1 #aee ,capo al ,d5te1 !1 #eai ,c>ri]s 9 tropics1 #die ,casque1 !1 #efj ,caucasus1 !1 climate (1 #ejf -- =e/s (1 #ejh -- lit]ature (1 #eji1 #eaj -- maps (1 #eae1 #eaf -- modes ( travel 91 #eaa1 #eab1 #ead1 #eae -- m\nta9 sy/em (1 #ejh -- m\nta9e]+ 91 #ejf-af -- -- c5tres =1 #eab ,caucasus1 m\nta9e]+ 91 commiss>iat =1 #eac1 #ead -- -- co/ (1 #eaf -- -- equipm5t =1 #eab1 #eac -- records (1 #ejh -- r\tes ( access to1 #eaj -- topography & /ructure (1 #ejf-i ,caulfield's ,h[ to ,ski cit$1 #cih n4 #8,*air1' !1 #aif1 #aig ,*alk1 its peculi>ities & risks1 #ahj ,*amois1 z a dang]1 #bga -- 9 relation to avalan*es1 #dda ,*amonix ,aiguilles1 !1 #df1 #dg1 #bgg -- granite1 #adf ,*eck1 eas+ ( a1 #beh-fj ,*eck+ on ! rope1 #bei1 #bfj ,*ill1 avoidance (1 #he -- risk (1 #e1 #f1 #g1 #ac ,*imney climb+1 #afg-i ,*imneys1 desc5t (1 #aia ,*ocolate1 #f1 #dde ,*ri/iania turn1 !1 #dja ,claws1 #if1 #ig1 #bhg-id -- 9 glissad+1 #cfe1 #cff -- 9 m\nta9 ski-+1 #djb1 #dai -- _! value1 #bhf1 #bid1 #eac -- !ory ( _! use1 #bhh1 #bhi -- types (1 #bhg1 #bhh ,cliffs1 sea1 #aha1 #ahb ,climb+ d[n1 #ahd-ii -- 9 comb9ation1 #bji-ee ,clo/i turn1 !1 #dja ,clo?+1 #e1 #aa1 #hd-ij -- = ! tropics1 #dhh1 #dhi -- = wom51 #hi1 #ij -- = ! ,himalaya1 #ecd ,cl\ds z wea!r port5ts1 #eg-i -- cirrus1 #eh -- cumulus1 #eh -- #8fi%'1 #ei -- #8m>e's-tails1' #eh -- /ratus1 #eh -- ?und]1 #ei ,coat1 !1 #hd1 #he1 #hf1 #hg1 #ij ,col du ,lion1 !1 #eg -- ,!odule1 !1 #eg ,cold1 effect (1 on endurance1 #aj1 #aa ,coleman's ,! ,canadian ,rockies1 ,new & ,old ,trails1 etc41 cit$1 #eha n41 #ehb1 #ehc1 #ehd1 #ehf ,collective confid5ce ( p>ty1 #ag1 #ah1 #bdj -- rhy?m1 #bji1 #baa ,col\r photography1 #dgg ,comb9ation1 climb+ 91 #bji-ee -- ! secret ( "t-sav+1 #gf ,comolo ,=no1 !1 #eei ,compass1 #ih -- ! radium1 #eb ,confid5ce1 dang] ( ov]-1 #bd1 #be -- necessity ( self-1 = lead]1 #ag1 #bch ,confus+ effects ( wea!r :5 on sn[1 #cdb-e ,conjunctivitis1 #dhc ,con/ipation1 #dhj1 #dha1 #dhb ,cont9u\s go+1 #gf-h ,cook+ app>atus1 #ih ,cornices1 sn[1 #cch-dj -- -- d\ble1 #chj -- -- reconnoitr+1 #cgg-hj ,cornwall1 cliff climb+ 91 #aha ,corsica1 lit]ature (1 #ebj -- modes ( access to1 #eah -- m\nta9e]+ 91 #eag-ba -- -- c5tres =1 #eah1 #eai -- -- co/ (1 #eah n4 -- -- equipm5t =1 #eag1 #eah -- -- season =1 #eag -- nature ( climb+ 91 #ebj -- topography & maps (1 #eah-ba ,c\ghs & colds1 #dhb ,c\loirs1 #bfh1 #bgb -- glissad+ on claws 91 #cfe -- reconnoitr+1 #chb-d -- sn[ 91 #cdj-b -- ! plung+ /ep 91 #cfd1 #cfe ,c\rage1 ! measure (1 #bfa1 #bfb ,c\rmayeur1 wea!r 91 #ef ,cov] = ! axe1 use ( a1 #cdi ,crabi\les1 !1 #efa ,cracks1 climb+1 #afe1 #aff -- desc5t (1 #aia ,crampons4 ,see ,claws ,crevasses1 #caf-ba1 #deb1 #dee -- hidd51 #cae-bb1 #ddi -- m>g9al1 #cji1 #dej -- reconnoitr+1 #cha1 #chb -- scimit>1 #caj -- sy/ems (1 #cji-aa ,cru/1 sn[1 #cja1 #cca -- effect ( ,fhn on1 #dac -- -- -- fro/ on1 #dad -- -- -- sun on1 #dae -- -- film1 #dad -- -- =ms (1 #daj1 #daa -- -- m>ble1 #daa1 #dad -- -- p]=at$1 #dad -- -- s(t breakable1 #daj -- -- trap1 #daj -- -- unbreakable1 #daj1 #daa ,cups1 dr9k+1 #ih ,cu%ion1 rubb]1 #ii ,cuts & scrat*es1 #dhe ,cutt+4 ,see "u ,/eps ,cyl9dre1 !1 #efj ,damp1 risks (1 #e ,danc+1 z tra9+1 #d1 #ff1 #aef -- movem5ts analog\s to ^? ( climb+1 #aef1 #aeg1 #bjh ,dang]1 #bf1 #bg1 #gb1 #adi1 #aeb1 #bcg1 #bfj1 #bfa ,de ,d*y's ,kaukasus ,reis5 und ,=s*ung5 cit$1 #eji ,desc5t1 #db1 #ahd-ii ,deta*$ rock1 #agf1 #agg ,di>rha1 #dha ,direction1 ! s5se (1 #cde-g ,disappo9tm5t1 #bd ,discipl9e ( p>ties1 #b1 #c ,di/rict1 ! *oice (1 #dc-h ,dogtoo? ,range1 !1 #ehj ,dollfuss 9 ,may1 #dfa ,dom1 !1 #dei ,d\bl$ rope1 !1 9 desc5t1 #aib-e -- on glaci]s1 #cag-ba ,d[n1 climb+1 #ahd-ii ,dr9ks1 #g1 #h ,dru1 !1 #dg1 #aeb ,dunagiri1 #ebi ,dys5t]y1 #dha1 #dhb ,e>? glissade1 #ahb ,e>?quakes1 #bgg1 #bgh ,ebnefluh1 ski-"w on !1 #cih1 #dei1 #dfh ,eck5/e91 ,mr41 crampons design$ by1 #ib1 #if1 #bhh -- ice-axe design$ by1 #ib -- on knots = ,alp9e ropes1 #id1 #ie -- on nails = boots1 #hc -- on ropes = ,alp9e "w1 #ic1 #id1 #ie ,elbrus1 #eji ,end man1 dang]s ( 8 fall1 #bfj ,equipm5t1 = ,alps1 #hj-h -- = ,arctic m\nta9e]+1 #dih1 #dii -- = ,caucasus1 #eab-d -- = ,corsica1 #eag1 #eah -- = ,himalaya1 #ecb-e -- = m\nta9 ski-+1 #djb -- = ,norway1 #eci1 #edj -- = ,pyr5ees1 #eff-i -- = rock climb+ 9 ,brita91 #hh1 #hi -- = ,rocky ,m\nta9s1 #ehh-ij ,ewige ,s*nee1 #ccj ,exceptional asc5ts1 #abj-b1 #adi ,excitem5t1 dang]s ( ov]-1 #af ,ex]cise1 =ms ( prelim9>y1 #d1 #aef1 #aeh1 #aei1 #aha ,exhau/ion1 #bf1 #bg ,exp]ts1 guide & amateur z1 #aaa1 #aab1 #aah1 #aai ,eyes1 "r use ( !1 9 climb+1 #adf1 #adg1 #aff1 #ahd1 #ahe1 #ahf1 #ahg1 #aib1 #cab1 #cac1 #cba1 #cgj-cif ,face-inw>d position 9 desc5t1 #aij1 #aia ---- 9 glissad+1 #cfc1 #cfd ,face-outw>d position 9 desc5t1 #ahh1 #ahi ,face-sideways position 9 desc5t1 #ahi1 #aij ,fall1 #bef -- aft] a1 #bfb-d ,fallibility1 human1 #bef1 #beg ,fatigue1 temp] z a sign (1 #bj ,fe>1 #bf1 #bg ,feet1 c>e ( !1 #d1 #e1 #hc ,fell climb]s1 #adb ,fell[%ip1 necessity ( good1 #c ,f5c+ z tra9+1 #d1 #ff ,fies*]horn1 !1 #dfh ,f9/]a>horn1 !1 #ddb ,f9/]a>jo* ,pass1 9 w9t]1 #cig ,firn1 #bhe1 #ccj ,fir/ man on ! rope1 duty ( !1 #bcg-i ,flys*1 #dbe ,fog4 ,see ,mi/ ,fhn1 !1 #ei1 #fj1 #fa1 #dag-bb -- effects (1 on sn[1 #cbf1 #cbh1 #cgg1 #chj1 #dab1 #dac -- 9 spr+1 #dba1 #dbb1 #dcf -- 9 w9t]1 #dah-ba -- ! dry1 #dah1 #dcj -- ! wet1 #dac1 #dah1 #dbi1 #dcj ,folgefond1 !1 #edb ,foll[+ & lead+1 #bag1 #bah ,food1 ! *oice (1 #f -- -- = tropics1 #dhf1 #dhg ,foot brake1 !1 #aie ,foot+1 ! "r1 = guide & climb]1 #abe-i ,footwork1 #adj1 #ada1 #aec-h1 #afa1 #agf -- = balance climb+1 #bhb-d ,=bes1 ,pr(4 ,j4 ,d41 8 ,norway & its ,glaci]s cit$1 #ecf ,f\rcanade1 !1 #eef1 #efb1 #efc ,freak climbs1 #ahb1 #ahc ,fre%field's ,r\nd ,kang*5junga cit$1 #ebg ,fre%field & ,sella's ,! ,exploration ( ! ,caucasus cit$1 #eji1 #eae ,front1 ! rope 91 #bad1 #bae ,fro/-bite1 precautions aga9/1 #e1 #bhh n4 -- rem$ies =1 #aj ,fro/is51 #edd ,fruit ice1 #h ,funicula1 #bed1 #bee ,furka1 !1 #dfd ,gabbro1 #edb1 #edc ,gabit\1 !1 #efj ,gait]s1 #hd ,galdhpigg51 #edd ,gal5/ock1 !1 #dfc1 #dfd ,galmihorn1 !1 #dei ,g>hwal1 #ebh ,gauli ,hut1 !1 #deg ,gant1 ! ,d5t du1 #aeb1 #bja1 #bgh ,geology1 value ( k (1 #dbe1 #dbf ,gidd9ess1 #i1 #bh-ca1 #ahb ,gjkkev>re1 !1 #edb ,glaci] falls1 #caa1 #cad -- mills1 #caj ,glaci]s1 #bgi-ha1 #bhe1 #cjh-bd -- 9 ! ,himalaya1 #eca -- 9 ,new ,zeal&1 #eed -- 9 ,norway1 #ede1 #edf -- 9 ! ,pyr5ees1 #eef-fb -- 9 ! ,rocky ,m\nta9s1 #ehf -- 9 ,spitsb]g51 #ejc1 #ejd -- practice 9 ice "w on1 #bhe1 #bhf -- ski-+ on1 9 w9t]1 #ddh-ef -- sn[-cov]$1 #cad-bb ,glaci] "w1 #cjh-bd ,glasses1 field1 #ig1 #ih -- = prev5tion ( sn[-bl9dness1 #aa1 #ig1 #cba1 #cbb1 #ecd -- = reconnoitr+1 #cie ,glaz$ rock1 risks (1 #agj1 #aga1 #aic ,glissad+1 #cdh-fi -- alt]nate1 #cfb1 #cfc -- arre/ (1 #ceb -- face-inw>d1 #cfc1 #cfd -- jump+ :ile1 #ceg1 #ceh -- on claws1 #cfe1 #cff -- -- 9 c\loirs1 #cfe -- on e>?1 #ahb -- on grass1 #cfh1 #cfi -- on hea!r1 #cfh1 #cfi -- on ice1 #cdi-eb -- -- position =1 #cdi-eb -- on s&1 #cff -- on scree1 #cff-h -- on sn[1 #cec-ff -- on volcanic a%1 #cff -- -- brak+1 #ced1 #cee1 #ceh1 #cei1 #cfj -- positions =1 #cec-fa -- -- /e]+1 #cee-g -- /one te/s =1 #cfa -- ! axe brake =1 #ced1 #ceh1 #cei -- ! foot brake =1 #ceh1 #cei -- ! rope 91 #cfa1 #cfb ,glitt]t9d1 #edd ,gloves1 #aj1 #hf1 #hi1 #aie1 #beh ,goats z a dang]1 #bga ,gr& ,trunk ,pacific ,railway1 !1 #ehb-d ,grease on ! face1 #aa1 #ij1 #ig ,gr$ets*?al1 !1 #dei ,grpon1 !1 #dg1 #aeb1 #che ,grimsel region1 !1 #dbe1 #dfc ,grip climb+1 #adb1 #adc1 #ade1 #agd1 #agf ,grit/one1 #ahj ,grove's ,! ,fro/y ,caucasus cit$1 #eji ,grundlaw954 ,see ,avalan*es1 gr\nd ,gspalt5horn1 !1 #ddg ,guide z m\nta9e]1 ! ideal1 #ajg1 #ajh -- companion%ip ( amateur &1 #abh1 #abi1 #acf1 #acg -- nature1 #abc-cg ,guides1 ,alp9e1 *ang$ conditions (1 #ajc1 #ajd -- z exp]ts1 #aaa1 #aab1 #aai -- c>e = _! com=t1 #abf1 #abg -- e/imation ( _! qualities1 #ec-e -- managem5t (1 #abc-cg -- misconceptions ( _! function1 #aja-c -- "q ( engag+1 #aah-bb -- traditional idea (1 #ajb ,guides' books1 h9ts z to writ+ up1 #ec-e ,gullies1 #ada1 #adb1 #bfh -- glissad+ 9 w9t]1 #cfh ,gurla ,m&hata1 #ebh1 #ebi #8,half /ep' trick1 !1 #cg ,halts1 #dj1 #gg1 #gh1 #ccb -- ! rope dur+1 #bea1 #beb ,h&holds1 to cut1 9 ice1 #bih ,h&s1 use ( !1 #afa-g ,hat1 !1 #he1 #hi ,heada*es1 #i ,heal?1 importance (1 #c1 #d ,he>t1 tra9+ & developm5t ( !1 #fg1 #fh ,height1 advantages (1 #ga -- ! psy*ological effect (1 #ca1 #cb1 #bic ,helmet1 wooll51 #hf ,hill-%ock4 ,see ,hy/]ia ,himalaya1 !1 climb+ conditions 91 #ebc1 #ebe1 #ebf -- configuration (1 #ebb1 #ebc -- glaci]s (1 #ebi -- managem5t ( exp$ition to1 #ebc-ebe -- m\nta9e]+ 91 #ebb-ce -- -- clo?+ =1 #ecd -- -- co/ (1 #eca1 #ecb -- -- equipm5t =1 #ebh1 #ecb1 #ecc1 #ece -- -- food =1 #ecc -- -- h9ts =1 #ecc1 #ecd -- -- in/rum5ts =1 #ece -- -- season =1 #ebf -- -- use ( claws 91 #bhh n4 -- topography (1 #ebg-i ,h9du ,khu%1 !1 #ecj1 #eca ,ho*gebirgskalk1 #dbe ,hold+ ! rope1 #bbe-g ,holds1 anatomical1 #bdd -- cl+1 #afa-b -- f+]1 #afa -- friction1 #afj1 #afa1 #afi -- on rock & ice1 practice (1 #fi -- ov]1 #afb -- press1 #afc1 #afd1 #agi -- pull1 #agd1 #agg1 #agi -- pu%1 #afc -- side1 #afb -- "u1 #afb ,hum\rs1 prev5table1 #ad-g ,hurry1 ! blund] (1 #ch1 #ci1 #dj1 #gf1 #gg1 #ccb ,hut usages1 #dh-ej ,hy/]ia1 or hill-%ock1 #bf-h ,ice1 black1 #bhe1 #bhh1 #bid1 #cgd -- blue1 #bhd -- glaci]1 #bhd -- gra9y1 #bhd -- -- h>d1 #bij1 #bia1 #ede -- honeycomb$1 #cgd -- -- rott51 #bij1 #bid -- -- s(t1 #bij -- sn[1 #bhe ,ice axe4 ,see ,axe ,ice claws4 ,see "u ,claws -- climb+ 9 relation to rock climb+1 #bhb-d -- craft1 #bhb-cbd -- fragm5ts1 dang] f fall+1 #bge1 #bgf -- sky1 !1 #cic1 #cid ,imitation1 9 collective climb+1 #baa-c ,incud9e1 !1 #ebj ,infection ( lead] by p>ty1 #be1 #bf ,injur$ man1 a dang] to 8 p>ty1 #bfj1 #bfa ,in/rum5ts1 #eg1 #ece ,irel&1 cliff climb+ 91 #aha1 #ahb1 #cia ,joanne's ,pyrnes cit$1 #egj ,jungfrau1 fir/ w9t] asc5t (1 #cig ,ju/$als-brae1 !1 #ede1 #edf ,kamet1 #ebi ,kasbek1 #eab ,ka%mir & ,k>akoram1 #ecj ,kellas1 ,dr41 on ,sikkim1 cit$1 #ebg1 #ebh ,klett]s*uhe1 #if1 & see ,soles ,knee1 "r use ( !1 9 climb+1 #adf1 #afj ,knick]bock]s1 #he ,knots = ropes = m\nta9e]+1 #id1 #ie1 #if1 #bee -- te/s (1 #if ,knut%ult9d1 #edd ,kumaon1 #ebh ,lakes1 !1 #adj1 #aeb -- sn[craft 91 #cdb ,lant]n1 fold+1 #eb1 #ih ,lava1 old1 #ahj ,lead]1 duties ( !1 #a1 #f1 #h1 #i1 #aj1 #ac1 #ah1 #bc1 #ci1 #dc1 #dd1 #dh-ee1 #abe1 #aej1 #aea1 #bcg-i1 #cbc1 #ccb -- guide or amateur z1 #aji1 #aaa -- qualifications =1 #a1 #b1 #c1 #d1 #i1 #ad1 #ae1 #af1 #ai1 #bj1 #ba1 #be1 #cc1 #ef1 #aej1 #aea1 #bcg1 #bch1 #bci1 #cba -- responsibilities (1 #b1 #f1 #i1 #aj1 #af1 #ag1 #bg1 #cb1 #cd1 #ce1 #cf1 #ch1 #ci1 #aaa1 #acc1 #acd1 #aej1 #aea1 #aec1 #bbg1 #bcg-i1 #bfj1 #bfa1 #bfc ,le ,blonde's1 ,mrs41 ,m\nta9e]+ 9 ! ,l& ( ! ,midnight ,sun cit$1 #ecf ,lee*es1 #dhd ,l5s1 #dga1 #dgc ,light1 to procure a1 #eb ,lilli5feld ski1 #cih -- sy/em1 #cii1 #dja ,lime/one1 #ahj1 #aha ,loads1 risks ( unnecess>y1 #bb1 #ge1 #gf ,long rope1 !1 #aih1 #aii ,long/aff1 ,dr41 on ! ,purcell ,range1 cit$1 #egi ,loops 9 ropes = glaci] "w1 #cbj ,lumire auto*rome1 !1 #dgg ,lungs1 tra9+ & developm5t ( !1 #fg1 #fh ,lunn's ,cross ,c\ntry ,ski-+ cit$1 #cih n41 #djb ,lyskamm1 !1 #d ,mal>ia1 #dhj ,maps1 #ih ,m>ble1 #ahj -- cru/1 #daa1 #dad ,m>bor1 !1 #eeg ,mascot1 uses ( a1 #cd ,matt]horn1 !1 #eg1 #aab1 #aac1 #bja1 #bga1 #bgb1 #cha1 #chf ,maupas1 !1 #efb ,may 9 ! ,high ,alps1 #def-fa1 #dfc1 #dfd ,m$ic9e *e/ = tropics1 #dhe1 #dhf ,m$ic9es1 #ajj ,m]zba*]'s ,aus d5 ,ho*region5 des ,kaukasus cit$1 #eji1 #eae ,m9d1 influ5ce (1 on ! body1 #ad1 #abi1 #bdj ,mi/ & cl\d1 uses (1 #chi1 #cij -- dang]s (1 #bgg1 #cdc1 #cdf ,mo9e1 !1 #aeb ,mont ,p]du1 !1 #eei1 #efj1 #efa ,monte ,c9to1 #ebj -- ,corona1 #eai -- d',oro1 #eai -- ,padro1 #eai -- ,r5osa1 #eai -- ,rosa1 #ddf1 #deg1 #dfh1 #dfi -- -- ski-+ on1 #cig ,mora9es1 #agh1 #bjh1 #bib ,mosquitoes1 #dhj1 #edj ,moods1 abnormal1 #bc-h ,m\nt ,ass9ibo9e1 #ege -- ,ball1 #ege -- ,beav]1 #egi -- ,cook1 #eea1 #eec -- ,duncan1 #egi -- ,edi? ,cavell1 #ege1 #ehc -- ,fitzwilliam1 #ehc -- ,hector1 #egf -- ,molo*1 #egg -- ,robson1 #ehd1 #ehe -- ,sir ,s&=d1 #egi -- ,torlesse1 #eec ,m\nta9 photography1 #dga-h -- sickness1 #i1 #aj ,m\nta9e]1 ! amateur1 contra/$ ) ! guide1 #ajc-h -- ! composite1 #ajf -- ! mod]ate1 #aaf-h -- ! true1 #bhj ,m\nta9e]+ 9 w9t]1 #cig ,muffl]1 #hf ,mumm's ,five ,mon?s 9 ! ,himalaya cit$1 #ebh n4 ,mumm]y's ,my ,climbs 9 ! ,alps & ,caucasus cit$1 #eji ,mrr51 #dfi ,muscul> fitness1 #i1 #fe1 #ff ,nails1 special1 = climb+ boots1 #hb1 #hc1 #aed ,n&a ,devi1 #ebi ,napes ridges1 !1 #aeb ,natives1 managem5t (1 #did1 #die ,nepal1 #ebh ,n]ve1 #gj -- exhau/ion1 #i1 #bf1 #bg ,n]ves1 #fh1 #fi ,nv1 #bhe1 #ccj1 #cce1 #ddh1 #dfe1 #dgj ,neve's ,picturesque ,ka%mir cit$1 #ecj n4 ,new ,zeal&1 flora & fauna (1 #eec1 #eed -- glaci]s 91 #eed -- guides = ! ,alps (1 #edi -- m\nta9s (1 #eej1 #eea1 #eee -- r\tes to1 #edh1 #edi -- ! ,s\!rn ,alps (1 #edh-ee -- topography & /ructure (1 #eea-c -- wea!r (1 #eej ,night dang]s4 ,see ,b5ightm5t ,night1 h9ts = walk+ at1 #ea-c ,norway1 glaci]s (1 #edj1 #eda1 #edb1 #edc -- guide books & lit]ature1 #ecf1 #ecg -- local conditions 91 #edd-g -- m\nta9e]+ 91 #ecf-dg -- -- equipm5t =1 #eci1 #edj -- -- exp5se (1 #ech1 #eci -- -- guides =1 #edj1 #eda1 #edb -- -- season =1 #ecg -- m\nta9s (1 #edb-d -- r\tes ( access to1 #ech -- topography & /ructure (1 #edb-d ,norway & ,sw$51 w9d-swept sn[ 91 #djh ,numb]s suitable = p>ties1 #cd1 #ce ,ob]a>jo*1 !1 #dfc1 #dfd ,ob]l&1 !1 cross$ on ski1 #cig -- its opportunities & *>act]i/ics1 #de1 #df -- wea!r 9 !1 #eg ,ob/9acy1 hy/]ical1 #bh ,old age1 climb+ 91 #gc ,opp5heim's ,new ,climbs 9 ,norway cit$1 #ecf ,ord]1 !1 on ! rope1 #bbg-cf -- ( mov+ on ! rope1 !1 #bcf1 #bcg2 & see "u ,rope ,outfit = ! ,alps1 #ia-ajj ,outram's ,9 ! ,he>t ( ! ,canadian ,rockies cit$1 #egd1 #eha ,ov]hang1 9 desc5t1 #aid1 #aie ,pace1 adju/m5t (1 to ! task1 #gd-i -- sett+ !1 #cg ,packe's ,guide to ! ,pyrnes cit$1 #egj ,paglia ,orba1 #eba ,palm]'s ,m\nta9e]+ & ,exploration 9 ! ,selkirks cit$1 #egh n41 #egi ,panic1 #bg1 #bgb ,p>asites1 body1 #dhd ,pass+ ahead1 #cg1 #ch ,paulcke1 #cig ,pegs & aids1 #if1 #bjj-c ,p5n9es1 *>act]i/ics ( !1 #df ,p]digh]o1 #efa ,p]si/5ce 9 unc]ta9 wea!r1 #fc1 #fd ,p]v]sity1 m\nta91 #bfg-gb ,photography1 m\nta91 #dga-h -- -- *oice ( subjects1 #dge-g -- -- equipm5t =1 #dga-e -- -- 9 col\r1 #dgg -- -- /]eoscopic1 #dgg-h ,pic d',albe1 #efb -- d',a/az\1 #efj -- de ,bcibri1 #eei -- d',enf]1 #eeg -- ,long1 #eei1 #efa -- du ,midi d',ossau1 #eef1 #eeg -- ,m\lires1 #efb -- du ,munia1 #efa -- de ,n?\1 #eei1 #efb -- de la ,pique1 #efb -- de ,p9de1 #efa -- du ,port d',oo1 #efa -- des ,posets1 #eei1 #efb -- de ,sal5ques1 #efb ,pitons4 ,see "u ,pegs ,port de ,v5asque1 #efb ,positions 9 desc5t1 #ahg-ia ,p[d] sn[1 #cbf1 #cbg1 #dje-aa -- -- effect ( sun on1 #djh-aa -- -- -- w9d on1 #djg1 #djh -- -- ! ideal ski-+ surface1 #djf -- -- reconnoitr+1 #cgd -- -- 9 spr+1 #dab-g1 #dcj -- -- 9 w9t]1 #daa1 #dab ,prep>ations1 psy*ological1 = asc5t1 #abi1 #acj ,punta di ,capella1 #ebj ,purcell ,range1 !1 #egi-hj ,putties1 #hi1 #abe1 #bhi ,pyramid ,peak1 #ehf ,pyr5ees1 !1 #eef-ga -- c5tres = climb+1 #efj -- huts & inns1 #eff -- lit]ature ( !1 #egj -- maps (1 #efd-f -- m\nta9e]+ 91 #eef1 #eeg1 #efc -- -- co/ (1 #efi -- -- equipm5t =1 #eff-i -- -- guides =1 #efc1 #efd -- topography & /ructure (1 #eeg-efc ,quairat1 !1 #efa ,qu>ries1 scrambl+ 91 = practice1 #aha ,qu>tz1 its peculi>ities & risks1 #agi1 #ahj ,rabot's ,au ,cap ,nord cit$1 #edb ,rea*1 advantages (1 9 climb+1 #ga ,reconnoitr+1 #cgj-if -- angle on sn[1 #cge-g -- c\loirs1 #chb-d -- glaci]s1 #caa-d1 #cha1 #chb -- ! half-se51 #cij1 #cia -- ice1 #cgd1 #cha1 #chb -- importance (1 #cgj-c -- ridges1 #chf1 #chg -- rock1 #chd -- rock faces1 #chd-f -- rocks 9 ,brita91 #chh-ij -- slabs1 #chg1 #chh -- sn[ cornices1 #cgg-hj -- sn[ surface conditions1 #cgd1 #cge -- ! unse51 #cia-f -- w9d & sn[ signs1 #chj1 #cha ,rqu91 !1 #aeb ,rescue p>ties1 #bff1 #bfg ,rhone ,valley1 ! upp]1 #dbd ,rhy?m1 balance1 #add1 #aef1 #aeg -- collective1 #bji-aa -- ( movem5t1 importance (1 #adj1 #ada1 #adc1 #ade1 #adh1 #aef1 #aeg -- ( /ep1 importance (1 #ci1 #dj1 #da1 #gf1 #gg1 #gh1 #gi1 #ade1 #adh ,rib rid+1 #afi ,r+1 use ( !1 #aic -- risks ( !1 #aid1 #aih ,r+worm1 #dhd ,ripple m>k1 #djg ,ro*e ,miette1 !1 #ehg ,rock avalan*e1 #bga ,rock climb]1 ! good1 #ach1 #adf-i1 #aga ,rock climb+1 #ach-bjh -- -- 9 relation to ice climb+1 #bhb-d -- -- developm5t (1 #ach-dd ,rock sky1 !1 #cic ,rocks1 k ( /ructure (1 #ach -- 9 ,brita91 #chh1 #chi ,rocky ,m\nta9s1 access to !1 #egd1 #eia -- -- lit]ature ( !1 #egd1 #ehf -- -- maps ( !1 #egf1 #egi1 #eha1 #ehe1 #ehf -- -- m9or ranges ( !1 #ehj -- -- modes & co/ ( travel 9 !1 #ehg-h -- -- m\nta9e]+ 9 !1 #egb-ia -- -- -- guides & equipm5t =1 #egh1 #ehh-ij -- -- topography ( !1 #egb-hg ,rope1 be/ h&grip on !1 #bbe -- c>ry+ !1 #bec -- *oice ( !1 #ic-d -- coil+ !1 #bdf1 #beb1 #bec -- 9 collective climb+1 #bac-g -- dang] ( abuse ( !1 #baf1 #bag -- dry+ !1 #bec -- fir/ man on !1 #bcg-i -- frequ5t exam9ation ( !1 necessity =1 #bec -- on ice1 #cje-h -- k9ks 9 !1 #bec -- l5g? ( !1 #bec1 #bed -- managem5t ( !1 #bdf-ee -- ord] ( mov+ on !1 #bcf-g -- ord] on !1 #bbg-cf -- -- on difficult or new asc5ts & desc5ts1 #bbh -- -- on direct asc5ts & desc5ts1 #bbg1 #bbh -- -- on easy asc5ts & desc5ts1 #bbh -- -- on trav]ses1 #bbi-cb -- -- ) beg9n]s1 #bcc-f -- "r use ( !1 9 desc5t1 #aia-i -- -- on sn[1 #cce-g -- second man on !1 #bci-de -- ?ird man on !1 #bde-f2 & see "u ,d\bl$1 ,knots1 ,long1 ,funicula1 & ,halts 8,rope-rid+10 #bag ,ros5laui1 #dfa ,ross's ,a ,climb] 9 ,new ,zeal& cit$1 #eed ,rubb] soles1 #aee1 #ahb ,rucksack1 !1 #e1 #ia ,rult51 #ede ,runn+ z tra9+1 #d ,russell's ,gr&es ,asc5sions des ,pyrnes cit$1 #egj -- ,s\v5irs d'un ,montagn>d cit$1 #egj ,safety-p9s1 #he1 #hf ,s&/one1 risks & peculi>ities (1 #ahj ,s>k1 ! isl& (1 cliff climb+ on1 #aha ,s*aeff]1 ,mrs41 h] ,old ,indian ,trails cit$1 #ehd n4 ,s*neebrett4 ,see ,w9d slab ,s*rad]1 ,m41 on ! ,pyr5ees1 quot$1 #eeg ,scotl&1 cliff climb+ 91 #aha1 #ahb ,scotti% m\nta9s1 sn[ craft on1 #cdb ,scree1 #agh1 #agi -- glissad+ on1 #cff1 #cfh -- 9 relation to ski-+1 #dbf ,sea cliffs1 #aha1 #ahb ,sealsk9s = ski-+1 #djb1 #ddi ,season1 habit ( !1 #fb1 #fc ,second man on ! rope1 !1 duty ( !1 #bci-de -- -- -- 9 case ( accid5t1 #bfb1 #bfc ,selkirk m\nta9s1 !1 #egg-i ,sracs1 #bge1 #cja1 #cac1 #cce ,%irts1 #he1 #hh ,signals1 code ( rescue1 #ea1 #bff ,sikkim1 #ebg ,sil5ce1 dang]s (1 #ah1 #bj1 #ea1 #bch -- uses (1 #bc1 #bdj ,simla ,hill ,/ates1 !1 #ebi ,sitt+ glissad+1 #cfj1 #cfa ,skaga/l/9d1 #edb1 #edd ,skat+ movem5ts1 analog\s to ^? ( climb+1 #aef ,skavla1 #djh ,ski1 m\nta9e]+ on1 #cig-dgj -- ,lilli5feld1 #cih -- = m\nta9 "w1 #djb -- = summ] "w1 #fd1 #cig1 #dfi1 #dgj ,ski-+ 9 ! ,high ,alps1 #cii1 #djj -- ,lilli5feld sy/em (1 #cii1 #dja -- ,norwegian /yle (1 #cii -- te*nique (1 #cih-dja -- turns1 #djj1 #dja -- ,zd>sky's sy/em (1 #cih ,sk9 diseases1 #dhc ,skipp+ z tra9+1 #d1 #ff ,sky1 ice z affect+ its t9t1 #cic1 #cid -- rock z affect+ its t9t1 #cic -- sn[ z affect+ its t9t1 #cib1 #cic ,skye1 climb+ 91 #aeb ,slab climb+1 #adb1 #adc1 #aff1 #afg1 #chg1 #chh ,slate1 its peculi>ities & risks1 #agi ,sleep+ sack1 #ii1 #dih1 #dii1 #eac1 #ecb1 #efg1 #ehi ,sleeplessness1 #dhc ,slides1 photographic1 #dgc1 #dgd ,sl+ = axe1 #ic1 #bih ,sl+s1 rope1 #aic1 #aid ,sl+sby's ,norway ! ,nor!rn ,playgr\nd cit$1 #ecf ,slips1 h[ to accept1 #da1 #db ,smok+1 #hi ,snake-bite1 #dhd ,sn[ a b> to />t+1 #fc1 #fd -- avalan*es1 #dbc-db -- bridges1 #ccg -- cornices1 #cch -- craft1 #af1 #cbe-df -- -- = ski-+1 #djc1 #djd -- cru/$1 #cca -- -- reconnoitr+1 #cgd -- granul>1 #daf -- 9 c\loirs1 #cdj-b -- new1 risks (1 #cbg -- p9k1 #edf -- p[d]y1 #cbf1 #cbg2 & see "u ,p[d] sn[ -- ! rope & axe on1 #cce-g -- sky1 !1 #cib1 #cic -- slides1 dang] (1 #bgc-e -- slopes1 reconnoitr+1 #cge-g -- -- security (1 #cbi1 #ccc-e -- s(t1 its risks & difficulties1 #ccj-ccb -- spr+1 = ski-+1 #dab-g -- /eps1 #ccc1 #ccd -- summ]1 = ski-+1 #dbb1 #dbc -- travail1 #ccj-c -- w9t]1 = ski-+1 #daa1 #dab ,sn[-bl9dness1 #aa1 #cdc ,sn[-l9e1 !1 #dei ,sn[-wat]1 its suppos$ dang]1 #h ,social composition ( a p>ty1 #cb-f1 #aji1 #aaj1 #aej ,socks1 #d1 #e1 #aj1 #hc1 #hg1 #hh1 #hi1 #aee1 #aef ,soles1 h>d1 #aec1 #aed -- rubb]1 #aee1 #ahb -- s(t1 #aed1 #aee1 #aga1 #agi1 #bhd ,solit>y climb+1 #aea1 #aeb -- -- unju/ifiable on sn[ or ice1 #cae ,s\m de ,raymond1 #efj ,spectacles4 ,see "u ,glasses ,sp5d] & ,llewellyn ,smi?'s ,?r\gh ! ,high ,pyr5ees cit$1 #egj ,spitsb]g51 coa/ (1 #ejj-b -- glaci]s (1 #eja1 #ejb1 #ejc1 #ejd -- int]ior (1 #ejb-d -- modes ( access to1 #dig1 #dih -- m\nta9e]+ 91 #dig-eje -- -- co/ (1 #eje -- m\nta9s (1 #ejb-d ,spr+ 9 ! ,high ,alps1 #def-fh -- sn[ = ski-+1 #dab-g -- ,"t-table = ski-+1 !1 #dff-h ,spr++ ! rope1 #aig1 #aih ,/ances1 on rock1 #bah1 #bai1 #bbc-g1 #bdf1 #bdg -- on sn[1 #ccf1 #ccg -- on ice1 #bih1 #cjf1 #cjg ,/$t9d1 #edd ,/emm+ turn1 !1 #djj1 #dja ,/ep-cutt+ practice1 #ahb ,/eps1 cutt+1 #bid-cjb -- us+1 #cjb-e ,/]eoscopic photography1 #dgg1 #dgh ,/ick1 use ( !1 9 ski-+1 #cii1 #djj1 #dja1 #ddb1 #dej1 #ded ,/imulants1 _! use1 #g1 #h -- -- 9 ! tropics1 #dhg ,/ock+s1 #hc1 #hf1 #aee ,/oma*1 c>e ( !1 #d1 #e1 #hf1 #dgi1 #dhj1 #dhb ,/ones1 dang]s ( fall+1 #bej1 #bea1 #bfh-gc -- reconnoitr+ c\loirs =1 #chb-d -- -- faces =1 #chf ,/orm ,m\nta91 #ege ,/rahlegg ,pass1 cross+ 9 w9t]1 #cig ,/r&aat9d1 #edc ,/rata1 rock1 importance ( acqua9tance )1 #chc-e1 #chh1 #dbe1 #dbf ,/utfield & ,collie's ,climbs & ,explorations 9 ! ,canadian ,rockies1 cit$1 #ege n41 #ehj n41 #eha ,subconsci\sness1 sph]e (1 9 m\nta9e]+1 #fi ,sulitelma1 #edd ,summ] ski4 ,see "u ,ski ,sun1 dang]s (1 #aa ,sunburn1 #ij1 #ig ,sun/roke1 #ab1 #dhb ,su!rl&%ire1 cliff climb+ 91 #aha ,sweat]1 #hf1 #hh ,sweet-/uffs1 value (1 #f1 #g ,swimm+ z tra9+1 #ff ,taillon1 !1 #eeg1 #efj ,tee?1 c>e ( !1 #dgi1 #dhj1 #dhb1 #dhc ,tehri ,g>hwal1 #ebi ,telem>k turn1 !1 #djj1 #dja ,temp] ( m\nta9e]+ p>ty1 !1 #ai-bc ,t5nis z tra9+1 #d ,t5ts1 #ii1 #eac2 & see ,equipm5t -- = tropics1 #dia-c -- ,mumm]y1 #dib1 #dii1 #ecc -- teepee1 #ehh -- ,:ymp]1 #dia1 #ecb ,?aw+ ( sn[1 !1 #dji1 #dae1 #daf ,?igh brake1 !1 #aie1 #aif ,?ird man on ! rope1 duty ( !1 #bde-f ,?ir/1 #g1 #h ,?und]/orms1 dang] (1 #bgf ,tiri* ,mir1 #eca ,t\r de ,m>bor1 #efj ,t\ri/1 ! m\nta9e]1 #aab1 #aac1 #aah ,trade goods = tropics1 #did1 #die ,tra9+1 #fe-gc ,trap cru/1 #daj ,tric\ni nails = boots1 #hb1 #hc ,tripod = cam]a1 #dgb1 #dgd ,tropical diseases1 #dhj1 #dha -- m\nta9e]+1 #dgi-if -- -- equipm5t =1 #dhf-ic -- -- heal? 91 #dgi-hf -- -- managem5t ( exp$ition =1 #dic-f ,tryfan1 ! buttresses (1 #aeb ,u4,h4,u4 ,/oll5 nails = boots1 #hb ,und]we>1 #hh1 & see ,equipm5t ,uns\nd rock1 #agc-i ,unusual rock #agi-hc ,urba*?al1 #dbd1 #deg ,val d',evolna1 #df ,vane/a pack+-case1 !1 #dic1 #did1 #ecb ,v]ascope cam]a1 !1 #dgh ,v]tigo1 #bh-ca ,vignemale1 !1 #eeg1 #efa ,wai/coat1 !1 #he ,wales1 cliffs 91 #adb1 #aeb1 #aha1 #ahb1 #cia -- ,nor?1 sn[craft 91 #cdb ,walk+ z tra9+1 #d -- mann]s1 #cf-da -- notes on hill-1 #da-c ,w>m?1 ! cons]vation (1 #e ,w>n+1 to give1 #beg1 #beh ,wat]-bottles1 #ih ,wat]pro( cape1 #hf ,wea!r1 !1 #ef-fd -- alt]nat+1 #dd1 #de -- confus+1 #cdb-e -- evil1 #bgf1 #bgg -- signs1 #fj-b ,weight h&icaps1 #ge1 #gf ,wet rock1 risks (1 #afi1 #agj ,wett]horn1 !1 #def1 #deg -- -- fir/ w9t] asc5t (1 #cig ,:eel]'s ,selkirk ,range1 etc41 cit$1 #egg ,:ite's ,sikkim & ,bhutan cit$1 #ebg ,wilcox's ,camp+ 9 ! ,canadian ,rockies cit$1 #ege n4 ,w1 function (1 9 climb+1 #fh ,w9d1 an enemy1 #aa1 #beh1 #bgf1 #cdc -- a fri5d1 #bgg1 #chj1 #cha -- z wea!r port5t1 #ei-fj -- effect (1 on sn[1 #cbf -- protection aga9/1 #e ,w9dbo>d1 #djg1 #djh1 #dcb ,w9d #8signs1' #chj1 #cha ,w9d slab1 #dcb1 #dcc ,w9e1 #g ,w9t] conditions 9 ! ,high ,alps1 #ddb-ef -- m\nta9e]+1 #cig -- sn[ = ski-+1 #daa1 #dab ,woman m\nta9e]s1 dress =1 #hi1 #ij ,wood-*opp+ z tra9+1 #d ,"y climb]s1 c>e (1 #ac1 #ad ,z]matt1 wea!r at1 #ef1 #cha ,z9al ,ro?horn1 #ddf1 #ddg1 #dfb ,,pr9t$ ,,by ,,morrison ,,& ,,gibb ,,limit$ ,,ed9burgh ,transcrib]'s ,notes ,obvi\s errors or omissions 9 punctuation h be5 correct$4 ,page #gh3 8:5 ! det]ioriation0 *ang$ to 8:5 ! det]ioration0 ,page #aei3 8*ang+ b /eelly ar*0 *ang$ to 8*ang+ b /eely ar*0 ,page #ccc-ccd3 8possibility ( ! i consumption0 *ang$ to 8possibility ( ! consumption0 ,page #dbe3 8,! h>d #8,ho*gebirgsalk1'0 *ang$ to 8,! h>d #8,ho*gebirgskalk1'0 ,page #efd3 8,m9i/re de l',int]ieur0 *ang$ to 8,m9i/re de l',intrieur0 ,page #ehj3 ,! footnote #b ,ibid4 v4 #bj1 #dd1 #hb4 0 remov$ f ! page because x has no correspond+ m>k] 9 ! text4 ,page #ehi3 8ord9>y's day's travel0 *ang$ to 8ord9>y day's travel0 ,9 ! index1 8d',a/azon0 *ang$ to 8d',a/az\0