,illustration3 8,,drinks0 ,,drinks ,,of ,,the ,,world ,,by ,,james ,,mew1 ,author of 8,types from ,spanish ,story10 c41 c41 ,,and ,,john ,,ashton1 ,author of 8,social ,life in the ,reign of ,queen ,anne10 c41 c4 ,,one ,,hundred ,,illustrations4 #ahib4 ,,london3 ,the ,leadenhall ,press1 #ej1 ,leadenhall ,street1 ,e4,c4 ,simpkin1 ,marshall1 ,hamilton1 ,kent ,co41 ,ltd4 ,,new ,,york3 ,scribner ,welford4 99 99 99 99 99 8,ingeniosa ,sitis40--,martial1 ,epig4 xiv4 #aag4 8,j'y ai song comme un autre1 et je suis tent de mettre l'apptence des liqueurs fermentes1 qui n'est pas connue des animaux1 ct de l'inquitude de l'avenir1 qui leur est trangre1 et de les regarder l'une et l'autre comme des attributs distinctifs du chef-d'uvre de la dernire rvolution sublunaire40--,brillat-,savarin1 ,physiologie du ,got1 ,medit4 #i4 8,ac si quis diligenter reputet1 in nulla parte operosior vita est1 ceu non saluberrimum ad potum aqu liquorem natura dederit1 quo ctera omnia animantia utuntur40--,pliny1 ,nat4 ,hist4 xiv4 #bh4 8,wine that maketh glad the heart of man40--,ps4 civ4 #ae4 ,,index4 ,absinthe1 #afb-aff ,adulteration of ,beer1 #aii ,arated ,drinks1 #cbd ,waters1 ,introduction of1 #ccb ,african ,beers1 #bjj ,wines1 #eh ,aix-la-,chapelle ,council ,decree1 #aeh ,aizen1 #cee ,alcohol in ,wine1 #ec ,effects on different ,races1 #ea ,origin of the word1 #aaf ,alcoholic strength of ,gin1 #adj ,ale ,conners1 #bjj-bbj ,syllabub1 #cce and ,wine drinkers1 social difference in1 #ic ,early mention of1 #ci ,origin of the word1 #aif ,various1 #bbf ,american ,beers1 #bja ,drinks1 #ahj ,terms1 explanation of1 #ahj-aha ,wines1 #ei ,aminean ,wine1 #bf ,analysis of ,tea1 #bdf ,anglo-,saxon ,liquors1 #dd ,animals' ,blood1 #cee ,anisette1 #afe ,aqua ,vite ,composita recipe1 #abj ,early esteem of1 #aag ,arrack1 #aac1 #cdc ,araffer1 #cei ,artificial ,wines1 #aeg ,assur-ba-ni-pal's ,list of ,wines1 #ai ,assyrian ,wines1 #ah ,athenus on ,egyptian ,wines1 #ae ,athol-brose1 #adh ,auld ,man's ,milk1 #ahe ,augustus' favourite ,drink1 #cj ,australian ,wines1 #fj ,austrian ,beers1 #bjb ,bacon's value of ,cider1 #aaa ,baga ,wine1 #ag ,ballston ,waters1 #cec ,barbot's description of ,kola1 #bif ,barley ,wine1 #aih ,bastard ,wine1 #dh ,bavarian ,beers1 #bjb ,beer1 #di ,adulteration of1 #aii ,antiquity of1 #aig ,belgian1 #bjb ,english1 ,the ,metropolis of1 #bai ,english1 ,popularity of1 #bjg ,egyptian1 #af ,manufacture of1 #aie-aif ,origin of the word1 #aif ,the ,inventor of1 #aig ,various1 #bbf ,beowulf1 #cg1 #ch1 #de ,besdon1 #cfj ,biliousness1 ,liqueur ,specific for1 #agf ,black ,jack ,jug1 #bac ,bon ,gaultier ,ballads1 #adi ,bordeaux ,wines1 #fi ,borneo ,beers1 #bjc ,bottled ,beer1 origin of1 #bai ,bottling1 ,italian mode of1 #ig ,brandy1 #aae ,german ,legend1 #aae ,origin of the name1 #abc and ,port1 #cfa ,braket1 #ceb ,brewers' ,company1 #bbj ,brick ,tea1 #bdc ,bull1 #cei ,burgundy1 #hj ,burns1 ,robert1 #adh ,burton 7,robert7 and ,coffee1 #cjf ,burton-on-,trent1 #bai ,burton ,brewery1 early mention of1 #bji ,ccuban ,wine1 #cj ,caffeine1 #cag ,capnian ,wine1 #bf ,canaries ,wines1 #fb ,caravan ,tea1 #bdc ,cassis1 #aff1 #age ,catherine de ,medicis1 #afd ,cattia ,edulis1 #bih ,ceylon ,tea1 #bdc ,champagne ,country1 ,the1 #fd ,champagne ,cyder1 #cbh ,champagne ,manufacture1 #fe ,chemicals used in non-alcoholic ,drinks1 #cbi ,chinese ,beers1 #bjd ,tea1 ,substitutes for1 #bih ,tea ,trade1 #bdc ,natural ,beverage1 #bcg ,chocolate1 #cbc ,cider1 #de1 #aaj ,the finest1 where made1 #aac ,claret1 #fi ,clergy ,drinking1 #df ,cobbler1 ,the1 #ahj1 #aha ,coca1 #bgi ,cultivation of1 #bia ,early mention of1 #bhj ,leaf1 ,medicinal qualities1 #bid ,cocaine1 #bie ,cocks' ,wines of ,bordeaux1 #ge ,cocktail1 #aha ,cocoa1 #cbj ,substitute1 #cbc ,tax1 #cbb ,cocoa1 ,its ,manufacture1 #cba ,where grown1 #cbj ,coffee1 #cjc ,adulteration1 #cai ,legend about1 #cjd1 #cje ,species of1 #caf1 #cai ,prosecution for the ,sale of1 #cji ,value of different ,species1 #caf ,its ,growth1 #cjc1 #cjd ,its ,medicinal qualities1 #cjh ,how to make1 #cah ,where most drunk1 #cjc ,coffee-,leaf ,tea1 #cjj ,coffee and ,liqueur1 #aei ,coffee ,houses1 a ,poem on1 #cab ,rules and ,orders of1 #caa ,popularity of1 #cji ,the first1 #cjf ,columella's ,wine ,receipt1 #ca ,continental ,liqueurs1 #afe ,cooked ,wine1 #aeg ,cordial ,makers' ,guide1 #afg ,cordials 7,non-,alcoholic71 #cca ,cornish ,drink1 #abd ,corsican ,wines1 #hb ,cowley's ,poem on ,cuca1 #bhh ,cow's ,milk1 ,formula for ,fermenting1 #cda ,cream ,syrup1 #ccj ,crme de ,noyau1 #age ,croker's ,irishman and ,whiskey1 #add ,crusta1 ,the1 #aha ,cuca1 #bgi ,curaoa1 #afe1 #agg ,curious ,records1 #acb ,cuttach1 #bj ,danish ,drinking ,vessels1 #di ,dantzig ,liqueurs1 #aga ,date ,coffee1 #cai ,definition of ,wine1 #eb ,distilling ,brandy1 ,mode of1 #abf ,drinking ,cups1 #di ,mode of ,keeping1 #cd ,health1 ,origin of1 #cc ,horns1 #da ,vessels1 #bac-bad-baf ,drinks1 ,pliny's ,list of1 #cc ,drunkards1 ,punishment of1 #ea ,drunkenness1 ,common ,cause of1 #acb ,cure for1 #bih ,duty on ,gin1 #acc ,eau ,clairette de ,framboises1 #agf ,chamberri1 #agg de ,cerises1 #agf ,ecbolada1 #af ,egg-nogg1 #ahe ,egyptian ,process of ,wine ,making1 #ad ,egyptians' ,early ,use of ,wine1 #ac1 #af ,eichhoff1 #aef ,elixir1 ,derivation of1 #aff ,english ,national ,drink1 #bjg ,wines1 #fb ,falernian ,wine1 #ca ,fall of ,madame ,geneva1 #acd ,fathers of ,brandies1 #afj ,fenkl1 #cfa ,fermenting ,cow's ,milk1 #cda ,ferrintosh1 #adh ,flannel1 #ahb ,flip1 #aha 8,food of the ,gods01 #cbj ,francatelli's ,service of ,wine1 #ee on ,gin ,sling1 #ahh ,french ,beers1 #bbh ,liqueurs1 #agb ,wines1 #fd ,fruit ,syrups1 #ccj ,garapa1 #cfj ,garway's ,tea ,advertisement1 #bec ,garoe1 #cdi ,gartmore ,estate ,tea1 ,sale of1 #bdd ,galazyene1 #cdj ,gallebodde ,estate ,tea1 ,sale of1 #bdd ,ganges ,water1 #cej ,generous ,wines1 #eg ,geneva 7,gin71 #abh1 #acj ,gerard and the ,use of ,cider1 #aaa ,german ,beers1 #bbh ,liqueurs1 #gj ,wines1 #hc ,ghee1 #ced ,gill-house1 #acj ,gin1 #abh ,lane1 #ach ,sling1 #adj1 #ahh ,alcoholic ,strength of1 #adj ,ginger ,ale1 #cbg ,gingerade1 #cbf ,ginger ,beer1 #cbd ,recipes 7old new fashions71 #cbd-cbe ,glenlivet1 #adi ,goethe's ,opinion of ,wines1 #hi ,gongonha1 #bgg ,gout1 ,accredited ,agent1 #ajd ,grecian ,wines1 #bf1 #ij ,dessert ,wines1 #cb ,process of ,wine ,making1 #bg ,gregory of ,tours1 #aeg ,greybeard ,jug1 #baf ,grieve 7,dr4 ,j47 and ,koumiss1 #cci ,guru1 #big ,hanway's ,essay on ,tea1 #bff ,harrison's 7,gen47 ,favourite ,beverage1 #ahe ,haynau 7,gen47 ,brewer's ,draymen1 #bbe ,heather ,beer1 #bbg ,hebrews and ,wines1 #bb ,heidelberg ,tun1 #hc ,helbon1 ,the ,wine of1 #ah ,herb ,wine1 #aeg ,hervey 7,lord7 and ,drunkenness1 #acb ,hippocras1 #aeh ,hippocrates and the ,virtue of ,wines1 #cc ,hittites and ,wines1 #bj ,hock1 #he ,hogarth's ,gin ,lane1 #ach ,holy ,tree1 ,the1 #cdi-cej ,homer's ,wine of ,thrace1 c41 #be ,hunding1 ,king1 ,death of1 #dh ,hungarian ,wines1 #ic ,hydromel1 #dh1 #aeh ,hypoteques1 #agg ,indian ,beers1 #bca ,tea1 #bde ,irish ,whiskey1 #adf ,italian ,mode of ,bottling1 #ig ,wines1 #id ,japanese ,beers1 #bcb ,jekyll1 ,sir ,joseph1 #acc ,jerry ,thomas1 #ahj ,jewish ,prayers respecting ,wine1 #cde ,johnson 7,dr47 on ,tea1 #bfg ,the ,gin ,act1 #acg ,different ,liquors1 #abd-bfg ,julep1 #aha-ahb ,kef1 #cee ,kirsch1 #agh ,kola1 #bif ,koumiss1 #ccf-cee ,its ,curative ,properties1 #cci ,its ,manufacture1 #cda-cdb ,kmmel1 #afe-agd ,kvas1 #aab ,ladakh ,beer1 #cfj ,ladies' ,tippling1 #aba ,lamb ,wine1 #cef ,lapps1 ,the ,common ,drink of1 #cfj ,l',eau ,clairette de ,groseilles1 #agf ,grenade1 #agg ,coings1 #agg ,leather ,bottel1 ,the1 #bad ,leake's ,description of ,grecian ,wines1 #ic ,leban1 #cee ,lemonade1 #cbg ,liqueurs1 #aef 7,non-,alcoholic71 #cca ,liqueur ,makers' ,guide1 #afg ,lovage ,receipt1 #afh ,madeira ,wines1 #ig ,mahogany ,drink1 #abd ,maimonides1 #cdg ,makasso1 #big ,malmsey ,wine1 #ajj ,maraschino1 #age ,markham on the ,coca ,leaf1 #bia ,marryatt1 ,capt41 and ,mint ,julep1 #ahb ,mat1 #bgb ,production of1 #bgc ,maturing ,spirits1 ,new ,process1 #aea ,mead1 #da-dh ,mead-hall1 #dj ,mead-horns1 #da ,medicinal ,quality of ,tea1 #bee ,mdoc ,wines1 #gb ,melo-cacti1 #cea ,methylated ,spirits1 #cfb ,metropolis of ,english ,beer1 #bai ,milk1 #ccd1 #ced ,beer1 #cee ,as a ,beverage1 ,disadvantages of1 #ccd ,mineral ,waters1 #cca ,mint ,julep1 #ahc ,misson on ,coffee ,houses1 #caj ,monastical ,liqueurs1 #afj ,montaigne1 #aei ,moonshine on ,american ,drinks1 #aic ,morat1 #de-aeh ,morewood and ,birch ,wine1 #fc ,motteux's ,poem in praise of ,tea1 #bfd ,mulder1 ,professor1 #ed ,mulls1 #aha-ahc ,murrey1 #aeh ,murrhine ,cups1 #cd ,mushroom ,drink1 #cea ,nantz1 #abc ,negus1 #aha-ahe ,nile ,water1 #cej ,nogg1 #aha-ahe ,non-,alcoholic ,cordials ,liqueurs1 #cca ,northern ,love of ,drinking1 #dg-ej ,noyau1 #age ,olaus ,magnus1 #dg ,old ,falernian1 #aef ,old ,tom1 ,origin of1 #ada ,ombulbul1 #cei ,omeire1 #ceh ,oporto ,wine ,co41 #ii ,osiris1 #aig ,paraguay ,tea1 #bgb ,parfait ,amour1 #agg ,pepys1 #bji-bfj ,pereira1 #afi ,perry1 #aad ,persian ,wines1 #ig ,perlin's description of ,english society1 #bji ,peter's ,pence1 #afb ,pigment1 #de1 #aeh ,pliny's ,list of ,drinks1 #cc-aig-cdi-cec ,poem on ,tea1 #bfa ,polo 7,marco71 #cci-cee-cef-ceg ,pombe1 #cfa ,pomeranzen1 #agh ,pope1 #abi-acj ,popularity of ,tea1 #bcg-bch ,populo1 #afd ,port ,wines1 #ii-ajj ,portuguese ,wines1 #ii ,private ,brewing1 #bji ,procope1 #age ,psithian ,wine1 #bf ,ptisana1 #cea ,pulque1 #cei ,pulteney's ,duty on ,gin1 #acc ,punch1 #aha-ahe-ahg ,punishment of ,drunkards1 #ea ,pusey ,horn1 ,the1 #db ,raspail1 #agh ,ratafia1 #aff-age-agf ,recipes 7,drinks73-- ,a ,yard of ,flannel1 #aij ,archbishop1 #aib ,black ,stripe1 #aic ,blue ,blazer1 #aib ,bimbo ,punch1 #aia ,bishop1 #aib ,bottled ,velvet1 #aia ,champagne ,cyder1 #cbh ,cardinal1 #aib ,ginger ,ale1 #cbg ,gingerade1 #cbf ,ginger ,beer1 #cbd-cbe ,lemonade1 #cbg ,locomotive1 #aib ,pope1 #aib ,pousse l',amour1 #aib ,rumfustian1 #aia ,sleeper1 #aia ,stone ,fence1 #aia ,white ,tiger's ,milk1 #aij ,recipes 7,liqueurs73-- ,amiable ,vainqueur1 #agc ,eau ,aerienne1 #agb d',amour1 #agj de ,pucelle1 #aga de ,scubac1 #agc de ,sultane ,zoraide1 #agj de ,yalpa1 #agj ,divine1 #aga ,miraculeuse1 #aga ,nuptiale1 #agj ,elixir de ,garus1 #agc ,guignolet d',angers1 #agc ,huile des ,jeunes ,maris1 #agc ,vespetro1 #agb ,recipe for ,cream ,syrup1 #ccj ,fermenting ,cow's ,milk1 #cda ,redding1 ,cyrus1 #fj-hc-he-id-ajg ,redi's ,bacco in ,toscana1 #ie ,reis' ,classification of ,wines1 #ef ,reland1 #ee ,rhine ,wines1 #hc ,rhodes1 ,father1 on ,tay1 #bdi ,roman ,wines1 #cj-cb ,roots' ,cuca ,cocoa1 #bic ,rosee's ,handbill on ,coffee1 #cjg ,rossolio1 #afd ,roussillon1 #ha ,rubruquis and ,koumiss1 #cci and ,rice ,wine1 #ceg ,rice ,wine1 #ceg ,rules ,orders of the ,coffee ,house1 #caa ,rum1 #aec ,russian ,beers1 #bcc ,wines1 #ajd ,sabzi1 #cee ,sacred ,wine ,tree1 #cef ,st4 ,vincent and the ,holy ,tree1 #cdi1 #cej ,saguer1 #ceg ,samchou1 #cfa ,sangaree1 #aha1 #ahh ,saprian ,wine1 #bf ,saratoga ,water1 #ced ,sure1 #cee ,sbitena1 #ceh ,scandal and the ,tea ,table1 #bfc ,schiedam1 #aci ,scotch ,whiskey1 #adg ,earliest ,account of1 #adh ,sea ,water ,wine1 #cdi ,setine ,wine1 #cj ,shandy-gaff1 #cbd ,sherries1 #ajf ,shrub1 #aha1 #ahh ,sicilian ,wines1 #aje ,silent ,spirit1 #aea1 #aed ,sir ,john ,barleycorn1 #baj ,slemp1 #ccf ,sling1 #aha1 #ahh ,sloe ,poison1 #bga ,small ,still ,whiskey1 #aej ,smash1 #aha1 #ahi ,social difference in ,ale ,wine drinkers1 #ci ,soda ,water1 #ccb ,spanish ,wines1 #ajf ,sparkling ,wines1 #eg ,spirit ,beading1 #afg ,spruce ,beer1 #bcc 8,still ,room01 #aai ,strabo1 #ee ,substitutes for ,chinese ,tea1 #bih ,surrentine ,wine1 #ca ,swedish ,beers1 #bcc ,drinking ,vessels1 #di ,swiss ,wines1 #ajh ,syllabub1 #cce ,syra1 #cee ,syrups1 ,list of1 #ccj ,table ,wines1 #ef ,taidge1 #cfj ,tartary ,beers1 #bcd ,tatler1 ,the1 #bfb ,tay1 #bej ,tea ,advertisement1 ,garway's1 #bec ,tea1 #bcg ,duty1 #bch ,houses1 #bcg ,statistics1 #bde ,trade1 ,centre of1 #bch ,plant1 ,growth of1 #bda ,value in time of ,queen ,anne1 #bfb ,analysis of1 #bdf ,earliest mention of1 #bdh1 #bdi ,early ,duty on1 #bec ,high ,prices for1 #bdd1 #bde ,how to ,make1 #bfh ,introduction to ,england1 #bec1 #bfj ,largest ,consumers of1 #bci ,legendary ,origin of1 #bci ,medicinal ,qualities of1 #bee ,poems on1 #bfa-bfc-bfd-bfe ,the ,finest1 #bdc ,when ,first ,used1 #bdj ,where ,grown1 #bci ,teas1 ,various1 #bdb ,thales1 #cdh ,the ,brown ,jug1 #baf ,theine1 #bie1 #bif ,theobromine1 #cbb ,thudicum1 ,dr41 #aej ,toak1 #cei ,toast ,water1 #cea ,toby ,philpot1 #baf ,toddy1 #ahi ,tokay ,wine1 #id ,toupare1 #cei ,trade ,rum1 #aed ,transition ,wines1 #eg ,tree ,water1 #cdi ,tschudi on the ,cuca ,plant1 #bhi ,ulph's ,horn1 #dc ,usquebath1 ,recipe for1 #adf ,varieties of ,wines1 #ec ,vega's ,description of ,cuca1 #bhb ,vermuth1 #agh ,village ,ale-house1 ,the1 #bbe ,villeneuve1 #afa-afc-afd ,vine1 ,cultivation of1 #ci-ii ,vine's ,treatise on ,home-made ,wines1 #fb ,vinegar1 #cea ,vizitelly and ,white ,wines1 #gf ,vontaca1 #cei ,waller's ,poem on ,tea1 #bfa ,walnut ,liquor1 #ceg ,walpole1 ,sir ,robert1 #acc ,ward1 ,edward1 and ,ladies' ,drinking1 #abb ,ward's ,dialogue3 ,claret ,darby ,ale1 #bab ,warm ,water1 #ced ,wassail ,song1 #bjf ,water1 #cdh ,water ,melon ,drink1 #ceh ,water of ,life1 #add ,whiskey1 #add ,distillation1 #adf ,manufacture1 #ade ,maturing1 #aea ,duty on1 #adi ,whistling ,shop1 #adc ,white ,ratafias1 #agg ,white ,wines of the ,mdoc ,district1 #ge ,wine ,making by ,greeks ,romans1 #bg ,vessels1 #bd ,alcohol in1 #ec ,definition of1 #eb ,distinguishing ,qualities1 #eb ,origin of1 #ed ,oldest ,records of1 #ac ,egyptian ,process of1 #ad ,varieties of1 #ec and ,beer1 ,merits of1 #aig ,wines1 ,assyrian1 #ah ,francatelli's ,service of1 #ee ,goethe's ,opinion of1 #hi ,reis' ,classification of1 #ef ,wolff's ,description of ,kirsch1 #agh ,women's ,tears1 #cdg ,youourt1 #cee ,ywera1 #ceh ,zythum1 #af ,illustration3 8,,drinks0 ,dedicated to those who know how to use and thankfully enjoy the good things so bountifully provided by ,dame ,nature4 ,illustration ,introduction4 ,from the ,cradle to the ,grave we need ,,drink1 and we have not far to look for the reason1 when we consider that at least seventy per cent4 of the human body is composed of water1 to compensate the perpetual waste of which1 a fresh supply is1 of course1 absolutely necessary4 ,this is taken with our food 7all solid nutriment containing some water71 and by the drink we consume4 ,but1 as the largest constituent part of the body is fluid1 so1 naturally1 its waste is larger than that of the solid2 this fluid waste being enormous4 ,besides the natural losses1 every breath we exhale is heavily laden with moisture1 as breathing on a cold polished surface1 or a cold day by condensing the breath1 will show2 whilst the twenty-eight miles of tubing disposed over the surface of the human body will evaporate1 invisibly1 two or three pounds of water daily4 ,of course1 in very hot weather1 or after extreme exertion1 this perspiration is much more1 and is visible4 ,to remedy this loss we must ,,drink1 as a stoppage of the supply would kill sooner than if solid food were withheld1 for then the body would1 for a time1 live upon its own substance1 as in the cases of the fasting men of the last two years2 but few people can live longer than three days without drinking1 and death by thirst is looked upon as one of the most cruel forms of dissolution4 ,to palliate thirst1 however1 it is not absolutely necessary to drink1 as a moist atmosphere or copious bathing will do much towards allaying it1--the one by introducing moisture into the system by means of the lungs1 the other through the medium of the skin4 ,thirst is the notice given by ,nature that liquid aliment is required to repair the waste of the body2 and1 as in the case of ,hunger1 she has kindly provided that supplying the deficiency shall be a pleasant sensation1 and one calculated to call up a feeling of gratitude for the means of allaying the want4 ,indeed1 no man knows the real pleasures of eating and drinking1 until he has suffered both hunger and thirst4 ,water1 as a means of slaking man's thirst1 has been provided for him in abundance from the time of ,father ,adam1 whose 8,ale0 is so vaunted by abstainers from alcoholic liquors4 ,but ,water1 unless charged with ,carbonic ,acid gas1 or containing some mineral in solution1 is considered by some1 as a constant drink1 rather vapid2 and ,man1 as he became civilized1 has made himself other beverages1 more or less tasty1 and provocative of excess1 and also more or less deleterious to his internal economy4 ,the juice of luscious fruits was expressed1 the vine was made to give up its life blood2 and1 probably through accident1 alcoholic fermentation was discovered1 and a new zest was given to drinking4 ,a good servant1 ,alcohol is a bad master2 but that it satisfies a widely felt craving1 probably induced by civilization1 is certain1 for most savage tribes1 emerging from their primitive and natural state1 manufacture drinks from divers vegetable substances1 more or less alcoholic4 ,the present volume is intended for that class of the public which is known as 8the general reader02 and its object is to interest rather than to inform4 ,therefore it deals at no great length with what may be termed the caviare of the subject1 as1 for instance1 the varied opinions of the medical faculty with respect to the hygienic value of drinks1 their supposed uses in health and disease1 and their chemical constituents1 or analyses4 ,nor is the question of price discussed1 nor long lists of vineyard proprietors given1 nor the names of the brewers1 nor the number of casks of beer brewed4 ,in short1 as few statistics have been introduced as possible4 ,in deference to a maxim not always remembered in books on beverages1 8,de gustibus non est disputandum10 or its ,english equivalent1 abhorred of ,chesterfield1 8,what is one man's meat is another man's poison10 the verdicts of enthusiasts and vendors have been1 except in rare instances1 alike rejected4 ,nor has very much been said on the inviting topic of adulteration4 ,it would be almost cruel to disturb the credulity of the good people who drink and pay for gooseberry as ,champagne1 or ,val de peas as curious old ,port4 ,it is a pretty comedy to watch the soi-disant connoisseur drinking a wine fully accredited with crust1 out of a bottle ornamented with fungus and cobwebs of proper consistency--a wine flavoured with essence at so much a pound1 and stained with colour#a at so much per gallon4 ,there is no need to proclaim upon the housetops the constituents of ,hamburg sherry1 nor how the best rum is flavoured with 8,r4,e410 or brandy with 8,caramel0 or 8,cognacine40 ,we have generally avoided the profane use of trade or professional jargon1 too often the outcome of ignorance1 pretence1 and affectation1 such as 8full10 8fruity10 8smooth on palate10 8round in the mouth10 8full of body10 8wing10 8character10 etc42 nor have we touched1 or desired to touch1 on the influence of alcohol on man's social or other well-being4 ,peter the ,hermit is fully represented already1 and we have no mission to call upon our fellow-countrymen to 8rise to the dignity of manhood10 and never touch another glass of ,madeira4 ,the authors have followed the example of the illustrious ,molire in taking their matter wherever they could find it4 ,the information contained in this work is derived either from other books1 oral information1 or personal experience4 8,the sun robs the sea1 the moon robs the sun1 the sea robs the moon10 says ,timon of ,athens1 repeating ,anacreon1 who adds that the earth robs them all4 ,so preceding authors are indebted to one another1 and the present volume to them all4 ,it has been written1 it is hoped1 without bias or prejudice of any kind2 but1 as the drinks containing ,alcohol are many more than those in which it is absent1 more have been mentioned4 ,that a full record of all drinks should appear1 is impossible2 nor could any critic expect it2 but an attempt has been made to give a fairly full list1 and to render it as pleasant reading as the subject admits4 ,illustration ,illustration ,,the ,,drinks ,,of ,,antiquity4 ,,egypt3 ,method of ,wine-,making--,early ,wines--,names of ,wines--,ladies and ,wine--,beer1 etc4 ,,assyria3 ,list of ,assur-ba-ni-pal's ,wines--,method of ,drinking--,different ,sorts of ,wine4 ,,hittite3 ,two ,ladies ,drinking--,their ,appreciation of ,wine--,the ,hittite ,bacchus4 ,,judea3 ,mention of ,wines in the ,old ,testament--,wine as an ,article of ,commerce--,mixed ,wines--,wine ,vessels4 ,has any man been bold enough to attempt to fix upon the discoverer of ,wine8 ,not to our knowledge4 ,nor can a date be even hazarded as to its introduction4 ,it was so good a thing1 that we may be sure that men very soon came to know its revivifying effects4 ,we do know this3 that the oldest records of which we have any cognisance1 those of the ,egyptians 7who were in a high state of civilization and culture when the ,hebrews were semi-barbarous nomads71 show us that they had wine1 and used it in a most refined manner1 as we see by the headpiece to this chapter4 ,here a father is nursing his child1 who invites him to smell a lotus flower1 another blossom of which his mother is showing him4 ,an attendant proffers wine in bowls wreathed with flowers1 and another is at hand with a bowl possibly of water1 and a napkin4 ,this wreathing the bowls with flowers shows how highly they esteemed the 8good creature10 and1 also1 that they were then at least as civilized as the later ,greeks and ,romans1 who followed the same practice4 ,we have the ,egyptian pictures showing the whole process of wine-making4 ,we see their vines very carefully trained in bowers1 or in avenues1 formed by columns and rafters2 their vineyards were walled in1 and frequently had a reservoir of water within their precincts1 together with a building which contained a winepress2 whilst boys frightened the birds away with slings and stones1 and cries4 ,the grapes1 when gathered1 were put into deep wicker baskets1 which men carried either on their heads or shoulders1 or slung upon a yoke1 to the winepress1 where the wine was squeezed out of a bag by means of two poles turned in contrary directions1 an earthen pan receiving the juice4 ,but they also had large presses1 in which they trod the fruit with their naked feet1 supporting themselves by ropes suspended from the roof4 ,the grape juice having fermented1 it was put into earthen jars1 resembling the ,roman amphor1 which were closed with a lid covered with pitch1 clay1 mortar or gypsum1 and sealed1 after which they were removed to the storehouse1 and there placed upright4 ,the ,egyptians had a peculiar habit1 which used also to be general in ,italy and ,greece1 and now obtains in the islands of the ,archipelago1 of putting a certain quantity of resin or bitumen at the bottom of the amphora before pouring in the wine4 ,this was supposed to preserve it1 but it was also added to give it a flavour--a taste probably acquired from their having been used to wine skins1 instead of jars1 and having employed resins to preserve the skins4 ,the ,egyptians had several kinds of wine1 even as early as the fourth dynasty 7above #fjjj years ago1 according to ,mariette71 when four kinds of wine1 at least1 were known4 ,pliny and ,horace say that the wine of ,mareotis was most esteemed4 ,the soil1 which lay beyond the reach of the alluvial deposits1 suited the vine1 and extensive remains of vineyards near the ,qasr ,karon1 still found1 show whence the ancient ,egyptians obtained their wines4 ,athenus says1 8the ,mareotic grape was remarkable for its sweetness20 and he thus describes the wine made therefrom3 8,its colour is white1 its quality excellent1 and it is sweet and light1 with a fragrant bouquet2 it is by no means astringent1 nor does it affect the head4444 ,still1 however1 it is inferior to the ,teniotic1 a wine which receives its name from a place called ,tenia1 where it is produced4 ,its colour is pale and white1 and there is such a degree of richness in it1 that1 when mixed with water1 it seems gradually to be diluted1 much in the same way as ,attic honey when a liquid is poured into it2 and besides the agreeable flavour of the wine1 its fragrance is so delightful as to render it perfectly aromatic1 and it has the property of being slightly astringent4 ,there are many other vineyards in the valley of the ,nile1 whose wines are in great repute1 and these differ both in colour and taste2 but that which is produced about ,anthylla is preferred to all the rest40 ,he also commends some of the wines made in the ,thebad1 especially about ,coptos1 and says that they were 8so wholesome that invalids might take them without inconvenience1 even during a fever40 ,pliny cites the ,sebennytic wine as one of the choice ,egyptian crs1 and says it was made of three different sorts of grapes4 ,he also speaks of a curious wine called ,ecbolada4 ,wine took a large part in the ,egyptian ritual1 and was freely poured forth as libations to the different deities2 and in private life women were not restricted in its use4 ,in fact1 the ungallant ,egyptians have left behind them several delineations of ladies in a decided state of 8how came you so80 ,it was probably put down to the ,egyptian equivalent for ,salmon4#b ,but if they noticed the failings of their womankind1 they equally faithfully portrayed their own shortcomings1 for we see them being carried home from a feast limp and helpless1 or else standing on their heads1 and otherwise playing the fool4 ,still1 wine was the drink of the wealthy1 or at least of those1 as we should call them1 8well to do40 ,they had a beer1 which ,diodorus calls zythum1#c and which1 he says1 was scarcely inferior to the juice of the grape4 ,this beer was made from barley1 and1 hops being unknown1 it was flavoured with lupins and other vegetable substances4 ,this old beer was called hega1 and can be traced back as far as the #dth dynasty4 ,then they also had ,palm wine1 and another wine called baga1 supposed to be made from dates or figs2 and they also made wines from pomegranates and other fruits1 and from herbs1 such as rue1 hellebore1 absinthe1 etc41 which probably answered the purpose of our modern 8bitters40 ,illustration ,the ,assyrians1 who rank next in antiquity to the ,egyptians1 were no shunners of wine2 they could drink sociably1 and hob-nob together1 as we see by the accompanying illustration4 ,their wine cups were1 in keeping with all the dress and furniture of the royal palaces1 exceedingly ornate2 and it is curious to note the comparative barbarism of the wine skin1 and the nervous beauty of the wine cups being filled by the effeminate eunuch4 ,the numerous bas-reliefs which1 happily1 have been rescued1 to our great edification1 afford many examples of wine cups of very great beauty of form4 ,the inscriptions give us a list of many wines1 and among them was the wine of ,helbon1 which was grown near ,damascus1 at a village now called ,halbn4 ,it is alluded to in ,ezekiel xxvii4 #ah3 8,damascus was thy merchant1 by reason of the multitude of the wares of thy making1 for the multitude of all riches2 in the wine of ,helbon1 and white wool40 ,wm4 ,st4 ,chad ,boscawen1 ,esq41 the eminent ,assyriologist1 has kindly favoured us with the following illustration and note on the subject of ,assyrian wines3-- ,illustration 8,this list of wines is found engraved upon a terra-cotta tablet from the palace of ,assur-ba-ni-pal1 the ,sardanapalus of the ,greeks1 and evidently represents the wines supplied to the royal table4 ,it reads3 ,col4 ,i4 ,wine of the ,land of ,izalli4 ,wine1 the ,drink of the ,king 7,daniel i4 #e74 ,wine of the ,nazahrie4 ,wine of ,ra-h- 7,shepherds' ,wine74 ,wine of ,khabaru4 ,col4 ,,ii4 ,wine of ,khilbunn or ,helbon4 ,wine of ,arnabani 7,north ,syria74 ,wine of ,sibzu 7,sweet ,wine74 ,wine of ,sa-ta-ba-bi-ru-ri 7which ,i think means ,wines which from the ,vineyard come not74 ,wine of ,kharrubi 7,wine of the ,carrob or ,locust bean740 ,on ,phillips's ,cylinder 7col4 i4 l4 #ba-bf7 is a list of wines which ,nabuchodorossor is said to have offered3 8,the wine of the countries of ,izalla1 ,toimmon1 ,ssmmini1 ,helbon1 ,aranaban1 ,souha1 ,bit-,koubati1 and ,bigati1 as the waters of rivers without number40 ,and among the inscriptions deciphered appear a long list of wines which the ,assyrian monarchs are said to have carried into their country as booty1 or to have received as tribute4 ,we see the process of filling the wine cups at a feast4 ,they were dipped into a large vase instead of being filled from a small vessel4 ,nor were they alone contented with grape wine1 they had palm wine1 wine made from dates1 and beer even as the ,egyptians had4 ,illustration ,according to the ,abodah ,zarah1 a treatise on false worship1 there was a mixed drink used in ,babylon called ,cuttach1 which possessed marvellous properties4 8,it obstructs the heart1 blinds the eyes1 and emaciates the body4 ,it obstructs the heart1 because it contains whey of milk2 it blinds the eyes1 because it contains a peculiar salt which has this property2 and it emaciates the body1 because of the putrefied bread which is mixed with it4 ,if poured upon stones1 it breaks them2 and of it is a proverb1 #8,that it is better to eat a stinking fish than take ,cuttach4'0 ,the same treatise also mentions ,median beer and ,edomite vinegar4 ,illustration ,the ,hittites had been a powerful and civilized nation when the ,jews were in an exceedingly primitive condition1 and ,abraham found them the rightful possessors of ,hebron1 in ,southern ,palestine 7,gen4 xxiii471 and so far recognised their rights to the soil1 as to purchase from them the ,cave of ,machpelah for 8four hundred shekels of silver1 current money with the merchant40 ,their power afterwards waned1 as they had left ,hebron and taken to the mountains1 as was reported by the spies sent by ,moses1 four hundred years afterwards 7,num4 xiii471 but they have left behind them carvings which throw some light upon their social customs4 ,for instance1 here is one of two ladies partaking of a social glass together4 ,unfortunately1 we do not know at present the true meaning of their inscriptions1 for scholars are yet at variance as to the translation of them4 ,that they thoroughly cherished wine may be seen from the accompanying illustration1 which represents one of their deities1 who appears to be a compound of ,bacchus and ,ceres1 and aptly illustrative of the two good things of those countries1 corn and wine1 which1 with the olive and honey1 made an earthly ,paradise for the inhabitants thereof4 ,it shows how much they appreciated wine1 when they deified it4 ,illustration ,as to the ,hebrews1 they were well acquainted with wine1 and placed ,noah's beginning to be a husbandman1 and planting a vineyard1 as the earliest thing he did after the subsidence of the flood4 ,throughout their sacred writings1 wine is frequently mentioned1 and intoxication must have been very well known among them1 judging by the number of passages making mention of it4 ,a great variety of wines is not named--nay1 there are only two specifically mentioned3 the wine of ,helbon1 which1 as we have seen1 was an article of merchandise at ,damascus1 a fat1 luscious wine1 as its name signifies2 and the wine of ,lebanon1 which was celebrated for its bouquet4 8,the scent thereof shall be as the wine of ,lebanon0 7,hos4 xiv4 #g74 ,it is possible that this bouquet was natural1 or it might have been artificial1 for it was the custom to mix perfumes1 spices1 and aromatic herbs so as to enhance the flavour of the wine1 as we see in ,canticles viii4 #b3 8,i would cause thee to drink of spiced wine of the juice of my pomegranate20 by which illustration we also see that the ,hebrews made wines other than those from grapes4 ,illustration ,that it was commonly in use is proved1 if it needed proof1 by the miracle at the marriage at ,cana1 where the worldly-wise ruler of the feast says1 8,every man at the beginning doth set forth good wine2 and when men have well drunk1 then that which is worse3 but thou hast kept the good wine until now40 ,that they drank water mixed with wine may be inferred by the two verses 7,prov4 ix4 #b1 #e73 8,she hath mingled her wine02 8,drink of the wine that ,i have mingled40 ,their wine used to be trodden in the press1 the wine being put into bottles or wine skins1 specially mentioned in ,joshua ix4 #d1 #ac4 ,in later days they had vessels of earthenware and glass1 similar to those in the illustration1 which were found whilst excavating in ,jerusalem4 ,that the ancient ,jews knew of other intoxicating liquors1 such as palm and date wines1 there can be very little doubt4 ,j4 ,a4 ,illustration ,illustration ,,classical ,,wines4 ,,greek4#d ,homer's ,wine of the ,coast of ,thrace--,pramnian ,wine--,psithian1 ,capnian1 ,saprian1 and other ,wines--,the ,mixing of ,wines--,use of ,pitch and ,rosin--,undiluted ,wine--,wine ,making--,spiced ,wines--,a ,greek ,symposium4 ,the only wine upon which ,homer dilates1 in a tone of approval approaching to hyperbole1 is that produced on the coast of ,thrace1 the scene of several of the most remarkable exploits of ,bacchus4 ,this wine the minister of ,apollo1 ,maron1 gave to ,ulysses4 ,it was red and honey sweet1 so strong that it was mingled with twenty times its bulk of water1 so fragrant that it filled even when diluted the house with perfume 7,od4 ix4 #bjc74 ,homer's ,pramnian wine is variously interpreted by various writers4 ,the most important wines of later times are those of the islands ,chios1 ,thasos1 ,cos1 and ,lesbos1 and a few places on the opposite coast of ,asia4 ,the ,aminean wine1 so called from the vine which produced it1 was of great durability4 ,the ,psithian was particularly suitable for passum1 and the ,capnian1 or smoke-wine1 was so named from the colour of the grapes4 ,the ,saprian was a remarkably rich wine1 8toothless10 says ,athenus1 8and sere and wondrous old40 ,wine was the ordinary ,greek drink4 ,diodorus ,siculus says ,dionysus invented a drink from barley1 a mead-like drink called 2 but there is nothing to show that this was ever introduced into ,greece4 ,the ,greek wine was conducive to inebriety1 and ,musus and ,eumolpus 7,plato1 ,rep4 ii47 made the fairest reward of the virtuous an everlasting booze-- 4 ,different sorts of wine were sometimes mixed together2 sea water was added to some wines4 ,plutarch 7,qust4 ,nat4 #aj7 also relates that the casks were smeared with pitch1 and that resin was mixed with their wine by the ,eubans4 ,wine was mingled with hot water as well as with cold before drinking4 ,to drink wine undiluted was looked on as a barbarism4 ,straining1 usual among the ,romans1 seems to have been the reverse among the ,greeks4 ,it is seldom mentioned4 ,the ,roman wine was most likely filtered through wool4 ,the ,spartans 7,herodotus1 vi4 #hd7 fancied ,cleomenes had gone mad by drinking neat wine1 a habit he had learned from the ,scythians4 ,the proportions of the mixture varied1 but there was always more water1 and half and half was repudiated as disgraceful4 ,illustration ,the process of wine-making was essentially the same among the ,greeks and the ,romans4 ,the grapes were gathered1 trodden1 and submitted to the press4 ,the juice which flowed from the grapes before any force was applied was known as 1 and was reserved for the manufacture of a particular species of rich wine described by ,pliny 7,h4 ,n4 xiv4 ,,ii71 to which the inhabitants of ,mitylene gave the name of 4 ,the ,greeks recognised three colours in wines--black or red1 white or straw-colour1 and tawny brown 71 fulvus74 ,when wine was carried1 1 or bags of goat-skin1 were used1 pitched over to make them seam-tight4 ,the cut above1 from a bronze found at ,herculaneum 7,mus4 ,borbon4 iii4 #bh7 exhibits a ,silenus astride one of them4 ,the mode of drinking from the 1 bottle or amphora1 and from a wine skin1 is taken from a painting on an ,etruscan vase4 ,illustration ,a spiced wine is noticed by ,athenus under the name of 4 ,into the 1 or medical wines1 drugs1 such as horehound1 squills1 wormwood1 and myrtle-berries1 were introduced to produce hygienic effects4 ,essential oils were also mixed with wines4 ,of these the #e is mentioned by lian 7,v4 ,h4 xii4 #c ,i74 ,so in the early ages when ,hecamede prepares a drink for ,nestor1 she sprinkles her cup of ,pramnian wine with grated cheese1 perhaps a sort of ,gruyre1 and flour4 ,the most popular of these compound beverages was the #f 7mulsum71 or honey wine1 said by ,pliny 7xiv4 #d7 to have been invented by ,aristus4 ,greek wines required no long time to ripen4 ,the wine drank by ,nestor 7,odyss4 iii4 #cia7 of ten years old is an exception4 ,the sweet wines of the ,greeks 7the produce of various islands on the gean and ,ionian ,seas7 were probably something like modern ,cyprus and ,constantia1 while the dry wines1 such as the ,pramnian and ,corinthian1 were remarkable for their astringency1 and were indeed only drinkable after being preserved for many years4 ,of the former of these ,aristophanes says that it shrivelled the features and obstructed the digestion of all who drank it1 while to taste the latter was mere torture4 ,illustration ,,classical ,,wines4 ,,roman4 ,falernian1 ,ccuban1 and other ,wines--,galen's ,opinion--,columella's ,receipt--,the ,roman ,banquet--,dessert ,wines--,the ,supper of ,nasidienus--,dedication of ,cups--,wines mentioned by ,pliny made of ,figs1 ,medlars1 ,mulberries1 and other ,fruits4 ,of ,roman wines the ,campania ,felix boasted the most celebrated growths4 ,the ,falernian1 ,massican1 ,ccuban1 and ,surrentine wines were all the produce of this favoured soil4 ,the three first of these wines have been1 as the schoolboy 7not necessarily ,macaulay's7 is only too well aware1 immortalised by ,horace1 who doubtless had ample opportunities of forming a matured judgment about them4 ,the ,ccuban is described by ,galen as a generous wine1 ripening only after a long term of years4 ,the ,massican closely resembled the ,falernian4 ,the ,setine was a light wine1 and1 according to ,pliny1 the favourite drink of ,augustus1 who perhaps grounded his preference on his idea that it was the least injurious to the stomach4 ,possibly ,horace differed from his patron in taste4 ,he never mentions this wine1 which is however celebrated both by ,martial and by ,juvenal4 ,as for the ,surrentine1 the fiat of ,tiberias has dismissed it as generous vinegar4 ,dr4 ,henderson has no hesitation in fixing upon the wines of ,xeres and ,madeira as those to which the celebrated ,falernian bears the nearest resemblance4 ,both are straw-coloured1 assuming a deeper tint from age4 ,both present the varieties of dry and sweet4 ,both are strong and durable4 ,both require keeping4 ,the soil of ,madeira is more analogous to that of the ,campania ,felix1 whence we may conclude perhaps that the flavour and aroma of its wines are similar to those of the ,campania4 ,finally1 if ,madeira or sherry were kept in earthen jars till reduced to the consistence of honey1 the taste would become so bitter that1 to use the expression of ,cicero 7,brut4 #hc71 we should condemn it as intolerable4 ,the wines of antiquity present disagreeable features2 sea water1 for instance1 and resin already mentioned4 ,columella advises the addition of one pint of salt water for six gallons of wine4 ,the impregnation with resin has been still preserved1 with the result of making some modern ,greek wines unpalatable save to the modern ,greeks themselves4 ,columella 7,de ,re ,rustica1 xii4 #ai7 says that four ounces of crude pitch mingled with certain aromatic herbs should be mixed with two amphor1 or about thirteen gallons of wine4 ,ancient wines were also exposed in smoky garrets until reduced to a thick syrup1 when they had to be strained before they were drunk4 ,habit only it seems could have endeared these pickled and pitched and smoked wines to the ,greek and ,roman palates1 as it has endeared to some of our own caviare and putrescent game4 ,to drink wine unmixed was1 it has been said before1 held by the ,greeks to be disreputable4 ,those who did so were said to be like ,scythians4 ,the ,maronean wine of ,homer was mixed with twenty measures of water4 ,the common proportion in the more polished days of ,greece was three or four parts of water to one of wine4 ,but probably ,greece1 like ,rome1 had many a ,menenius who loved a cup of hot wine with not a drop of allaying ,tiber in it4 ,if the condition of ,alcibiades in the ,platonic symposium was the result of wine so diluted1 the wine must have been strong indeed4 ,the ,grecian and ,roman banquet began with the mulsum1 of mingled wine and honey4 ,the dessert wines among the ,greeks were the ,thasian and ,lesbian2 among the ,romans the ,alban1 ,ccuban1 and ,falernian1 and afterwards the ,chian and ,lesbian4 ,in the triumphal supper of ,csar in his dictatorship ,pliny says ,falernian flowed in hogsheads and ,chian in gallons4 ,at the well-known ,horatian supper of ,nasidienus1 the ,ccuban and indifferent ,chian were handed round before the host advised ,mcenas that ,alban and ,falernian were procurable if he preferred them4 ,juvenal and ,martial tell us of the complaint of clients1 that while the master and his friends drank the best wine out of costly cups1 they themselves had to put up with ropy liquors in coarse1 half-broken vessels4 ,human nature has changed little in this respect since those satirists wrote4 ,the old fashion of dedicating cups to divinities led perhaps to our modern system of drinking healths4 ,sometimes as many cups were drunk to a person as there were letters in the name of the person so honoured4 ,it was better then for the bibulous to toast the ancient ,sempronia or ,messalina than the modern ,meg or ,kate4 ,hydromeli1 made of honey and five-year-old rain-water2 oxymeli1 made of honey1 sea-salt1 and vinegar2 hydromelon1 made of honey and quinces2 hydrorosatum1 a similar compound with the addition of roses2 apomeli1 water in which honeycomb had been boiled2 omphacomeli1 a mixture of honey and verjuice2 myrtites1 a compound of honey and myrtle seed2 rhoites1 a drink in which the pomegranate took the place of the myrtle2 nanthinum1 made from the fruit of the wild vine2 silatum1 taken1 according to ,festus1 in the forenoon1 and made of ,saxifragia major 7,forcellini7 or ,tordylium officinale 7,liddell and ,scott72 sycites1 wine of figs2 phnicites1 wine of palms2 abrotonites1 wine of wormwood2 and adynamon1 a weak wine for the sick--are most of them mentioned as drinks in ,pliny4#g ,this author also mentions drinks made of sorbs1 medlars1 mulberries1 and other fruits1 of asparagus1 origanum1 thyme1 and other herbs4 ,hippocrates praises wine as a medical agent4 ,in his third book the father of medicine gives a description of the general qualities and virtues of wines1 and shows for what diseases they are in his opinion advantageous4 ,for more information on wines the reader may consult ,sir ,edward ,barry1 ,dr4 ,alexander ,henderson1 and ,cyrus ,redding4 ,henderson1 who was1 like ,barry1 a physician1 did not always agree with him4 ,barry's observations1 according to ,henderson1 are chiefly borrowed from ,bacci4 ,those not so borrowed are for the most part 8flimsy and tedious40 ,the vessels and other drinking cups were commonly ranged on an abacus of marble1 something like our sideboard4 ,it was large1 if ,philo ,judeus is to be believed4 ,pliny1 speaking of ,pompey's spoils in the matter of the pirates1 says the number of jewel-adorned drinking cups was enough to furnish nine abaci4 ,cicero charges ,verres with having plundered the abaci4 ,when ,rome was in the height of her luxury1 murrhine cups were introduced from the ,east4 ,what this substance was1 the ruins of ,pompeii have never revealed2 some maintain it was porcelain1 others think it was a species of spar4 ,dr4 ,henderson adopts the opinion of ,m4 de ,rozire that these cups were of fluor-spar2 but this article is not found in ,karamania1 from which district of ,parthia both ,pliny and ,propertius agree that they came1 though they differ with respect to their nature2 its geographic situation seems confined to ,europe4 ,the anecdote told by ,lampridius of ,heliogabalus 7#ejb7 proves1 not the similarity of material1 but only the equal rareness and value of vessels of onyx and murrhine4 ,illustration3 ,,amphor1 ,,rhytons1 ,,etc4 7,brit4 ,mus474 ,a writer in the ,westminster ,review for ,july1 #ahbe1 believes them to have been porcelain cups from ,china2 the expression of ,propertius1 8cocta focis10 proves that they were manufactured4 ,in the time of ,belon 7#aeee7 the ,greeks called them the myrrh of ,smyrna1 from murex1 a shell4 ,from this it seems that their name was given to the vases from a resemblance of colours to those of the murex4 ,stolberg 7,travels1 ix4 #bhj7 says he saw in a collection at ,catania a little blue vase1 believed to be a vas murrhinum4 ,the modern jars in any of the wine districts of ,italy1 such as ,asti ,montepulciano or ,montefiascone1 thin earthen two-handled vessels holding some twenty quarts1 are almost identical with the ancient amphor4 ,suetonius speaks of a candidate for the qustorship who drank the contents of a whole amphora at a dinner given by ,tiberius4 ,this amphora was probably of a smaller size4 ,wooden vessels for wine seem to have been unfamiliar to the ,greeks and ,romans2 they1 however1 occasionally employed glass4 ,bottles1 vases1 and cups of that material1 which may be seen often enough now in collections of antiquities1 show the great taste which in these and in other matters they possessed4 ,a few of these are given to illustrate our text4 ,skins of animals1 rendered impervious by oil or resinous gums1 were probably the most ancient receptacles for wine after it was taken from the vat4 ,to these there are frequent allusions in ,homer and ,isaiah4 ,vessels of clay1 with a coating of pitch1 were introduced subsequently4 ,illustration ,illustration ,,northern ,,drinking4 ,beowulf--,ale--,beer--,mead--,english ,wine--,the ,mead ,hall--,drinking ,horns--,tosti and ,harold--,pigment1 etc4--,the ,clergy1 etc41 drinking--,northern ,wine drinking--,king ,hunding--,brewing--,strange ,drinking ,vessels1 and their ,use--,punishment of ,drunkards4 ,sailing from the north1 being lured to the south with visions of plunder and luxury1 came the ,danish and ,norwegian ,vikings1 and1 as ,england was the nearest to them1 she received an early visit4 ,with them they brought their habit of deep drinking1 which was scarcely needed1 as on that score the then inhabitants of ,england could pretty well hold their own4 ,their liquors seem to have been ale1 ealu1 beer1 beor1 wine1 win1 and mead1 medo4 ,there was a difference between those that drank ale and those that drank beer1 as we find in ,beowulf#h3-- 8,full oft have promis'd1 with beer drunken1 ,over the ale cup1 sons of conflict1 that they in the beer-hall would await ,grendel's warfare with terrors of edges3 then was this mead-hall1 at morning tide1 this princely court1 stain'd with gore2 when the day dawn'd1 all the bench-floor with blood bestream'd1 the hall1 with horrid gore2 of faithful followers ,i own'd the less1 of dear nobles1 who then death destroyed4 ,sit now to the feast1 and unbind with mead thy valiant breast with my warriors as thy mind may excite4 ,then was for the sons of the ,goths altogether in the beer hall a bench clear'd2 there the strong of soul went to sit tumultuously rejoicing3 the thane observ'd his duty1 who in his hand bare the ornamented ale-cup1 he pour'd the bright1 sweet liquor3 the gleeman sang at times serene in ,heorot3 there was joy of warriors1 no few nobles of ,danes and ,weders40 ,in ,dugdale's ,monasticon 7ed4 #afhb1 p4 #abf71 in a ,charter of ,offa to the ,monastery of ,westbury1 three sorts of ale are mentioned4 ,two tuns full of hlutres aloth 7,clear ale71 a cumb full of lithes aloth 7mild ale71 and a cumb full of ,welisces aloth 7,welsh ale71 which is again mentioned as cervisia ,walli4 ,but though beer and ale were the drinks of the common folk1 yet they were not despised by their leaders4 #i8;,at times before the nobles ,hrothgar's daughter to the earls in order the ale cup bore40 ,we see the social difference between ale and wine drinkers in one of the ,cotton ,,mss4 7,tib4 ,a4 #c71 where a lad having been asked what he drank replied3 8,ale1 if ,i have it2 ,water1 if ,i have it not40 ,asked why he does not drink wine1 he says3 8,i am not so rich that ,i can buy me wine2 and wine is not the drink of children or the weak-minded1 but of the elders and the wise40 ,the ,english at that time grew the ,vine for wine-making purposes2 indeed1 very good wine can now be1 and is1 made from ,english grapes4 ,every monastery had its vineyard1 and to this day ,london has six ,vine ,streets and one ,vineyard ,walk4 ,the wine-hall seems to have been a different apartment to either the mead or ale-halls1 and of a superior order4 #aj8,the company all arose2 greeted then one man another ,hrothgar ,beowulf1 and bade him hail1 gave him command of the wine-hall40 444#aa 8,he strode under the clouds1 until he the wine-house1 the golden hall of men1 most readily perceiv'd1 richly variegated40 ,the mead-hall seems to have answered the purpose of a common hall1 as we see by the following4 ,speaking of ,hrothgar1 the poet says3-- #ab8;,it ran through his mind that he a hall-house would command1 a great mead-house1 men to make1 which the sons of men should ever hear of2 and there within all distribute to young and old1 as to him ,god had given1 except the people's share1 and the lives of men4 ,then ,i heard that widely the work was proclaim'd to many a tribe through this mid-earth that a public place was building40 ,mead was considered a glorified liquor fit for ,,men and is thus sung of by the bard ,taliesin3-- 8,that ,maelgwn of ,mona be inspired with mead and cheer us with it1 ,from the mead-horn's foaming1 pure1 and shining liquor1 ,which the bees provide1 but do not enjoy2 ,mead distilled1 ,i praise2 its eulogy is everywhere ,precious to the creature whom the earth maintains4 ,god made it to man for his happiness1 ,the fierce and the mute both enjoy it40 ,mead was made from honey and water1 fermented1 and in many languages its name has a striking similarity4 ,in ,greek1 honey is methu1 in ,sanskrit1 madhu1 and the drink made therefrom in ,danish1 is miod1 in ,anglo-,saxon1 medu1 in ,welsh1 medd1 whence metheglyn--medd1 mead1 and llyn1 liquor4 ,in ,beowulf we frequently find mention of the mead-horns1 and we see it vividly portrayed in the heading of this chapter1 which is taken from the ,bayeux ,tapestry4 ,these horns were generally those of oxen1 although some were made of ivory1 and were probably used because fictile ware was so easily broken in those drinking bouts in which they so frequently indulged4 ,another reason was doubtless that they promoted conviviality1 for1 like the classical ,rhyton1 they could not be set down like a bowl1 but must either be nursed1 or their contents quaffed4 ,many examples of drinking horns remain to us1 and illustrations of two are here given3 one that of ,ulph1 belonging to1 and now kept at1 ,york ,minster1 and the other the ,pusey horn4 ,these are veritable drinking horns2 but there are many other tenure horns in existence1 which are hunting horns4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,pusey ,,horn4 ,this horn is an old tenure horn4 ,it was once the custom1 when making a gift of land1 instead of making out a deed of gift1 to present some article of personal use1 such as a knife1 a drinking or hunting horn1 and with it the manor or land1 the recipient keeping the present1 as a proof that the land was given him4 ,this ,pusey horn is said to have been given by ,king ,knut to ,william ,pewse1 and on the silver-gilt band1 to which are appended dog's legs and feet1 is inscribed in ,gothic letters-- 8,kyng ,knowde geve ,wyllyam ,pewse ,this horne to holde by thy lond40 ,it is an ox horn1 dark brown1 and is #be inches long1 having a silver-gilt rim1 and at the small end a hound's head1 also of silver-gilt1 which unscrews1 thus enabling it to be used either as a drinking or hunting horn4 ,ulph's horn is considered of somewhat later date1 and is of ivory4 ,illustration3 ,,ulph',s ,,horn4 ,of this horn ,dugdale#ac says3 8,about this time also1 ,ulphe1 the son of ,thorald1 who ruled in the west of ,deira1#ad by reason of the difference which was like to rise between his sons1 about the sharing of his lands and lordships after his death1 resolved to make them all alike2 and thereupon1 coming to ,york1 with that horn wherewith he was used to drink1 filled it with wine1 and before the altar of ,god1 and ,saint ,peter1 ,prince of the ,apostles1 kneeling devoutly1 drank the wine1 and by that ceremony enfeoffed this church with all his lands and revenues4 ,the figure of which horn1 in memory thereof1 is cut in stone upon several parts of the choir1 but the horn itself1 when the ,reformation in ,king ,edward the ,v,ith's time began1 and swept away many costly ornaments belonging to this church1 was sold to a goldsmith1 who took away from it those tippings of gold wherewith it was adorned1 and the gold chain affixed thereto2 since which1 the horn itself1 being cut in ivory in an eight square form1 came to the hands of ,thomas1 late ,lord ,fairfax40 ,he1 dying in #afga1 it came into the possession of his next relation1 ,henry1 ,lord ,fairfax1 who restored its ornaments in silver-gilt1 and restored it to the cathedral authorities4 ,it bears the following inscription3-- 8,,cornv ,,hoc1 ,,vlphvs ,,in ,,occidentali ,,parte ,,deir ,,princeps1 ,,vna ,,cum ,,omnibvs ,,terris ,,et ,,redditibvs ,,suis ,,olim ,,donavit4 ,,amissvm ,,vel ,,abreptvm4 ,,henricvs ,,dom4 ,,fairfax ,,demvm ,,restitvit4 ,,dec4 ,,et ,,capit4 ,,de ,,novo ,,ornavit4 ,a4,d4 ,,mdc4 ,,lxxv40 ,most of us know ,longfellow's poem of ,king ,witlaf's drinking horn1 a story which may be found in ,ingulphus1 who says that ,witlaf1 ,king of ,mercia1 who lived in the reign of ,egbert1 gave to the ,abbey of ,croyland the horn used at his own table1 for the elder monks of the house to drink out of it on festivals and saints' days1 and that when they gave thanks1 they might remember the soul of ,witlaf the donor4 ,that they had some horn of the kind is probable1 for the same chronicler says that when the monastery was almost destroyed by fire1 this horn was saved4 ,besides the liquors above mentioned1 the ,anglo-,saxons had others1 as we see in a passage of ,henry of ,huntingdon 7lib4 vi471 which is probably an invention1 the same story being told by ,florence of ,worcester1 of ,caradoc1 the son of ,griffith1 ,a4,d4 #ajfe4 ,however1 he says that in #ajfc1 in the king's palace at ,winchester1 ,tosti seized his brother ,harold by the hair1 in the royal presence1 and while he was serving the king with wine2 for it had been a source of envy and hatred that the king showed a higher regard for ,harold1 though ,tosti was the elder brother4 ,wherefore1 in a sudden paroxysm of passion1 he could not refrain from this attack on his brother4 ,tosti departed from the king and his brother in great anger1 and went to ,hereford1 where ,harold had purveyed large supplies for the royal use4 ,there he butchered all his brother's servants1 and inclosed a head and an arm in each of the vessels containing wine1 mead1 ale1 pigment1#ae morat1#af and cider1 sending a message to the king that when he came to his farm he would find plenty of salt meat1 and that he would bring more with him4 ,for this horrible crime the king commanded him to be banished and outlawed4 ,there is no doubt but that the ,anglo-,saxons drank to excess1 and thought no shame of it4 ,many times in ,beowulf are we told of their being dragged from the mead-benches by their enemies and slaughtered1 and in a fragment of an ,anglo-,saxon poem on ,judith we read3-- 8,then was ,holofernes ,enchanted with the wine of men3 ,in the hall of the guests ,he laughed and shouted1 ,he roared and dinn'd1 ,that the children of men might hear afar1 ,how the sturdy one ,stormed and clamoured1 ,animated and elate with wine ,he admonished amply ,those sitting on the bench ,that they should bear it well4 ,so was the wicked one all day1 ,the lord and his men1 ,drunk with wine2 ,the stern dispenser of wealth2 ,till that they swimming lay ,over drunk4 ,all his nobility ,as they were death slain1 ,their property poured about4 ,so commanded the lord of men1 ,to fill to those sitting at the feast1 ,till the dark night ,approached the children of men40 ,illustration ,even the clergy and monks drank probably more than was good for them1 for a priest was forbidden by law to eat or drink at places where ale was sold4 ,but that did not prevent their drinking at home2 their benefactors provided well for that1 as one instance will show4 ,ethelwold allowed the ,monastery of ,abingdon a great bowl1 from which the drinking vessels of the brothers were filled twice a day4 ,at ,christmas1 ,easter1 ,pentecost1 the ,nativity and ,assumption of the ,virgin1 on the festivals of ,saints ,peter and ,paul1 and all the other saints1 they were to have wine1 as well as mead1 twice a day2 and taking the number of ,saints in the ,anglo-,saxon ,calendar1 it must have gone hard with them1 if this was not almost an every-day occurrence4 ,illustration ,the ,northern nations did not lose their love of drink as time rolled on1 as we may find in the pages of ,olaus ,magnus4 ,they drank wine1 but owing to the extreme cold it was not of native production1 but imported4 ,in this illustration we see the vessel that has brought it1 and the bush outside1 denoting that it was to be sold4 ,they got it from ,spain1 ,italy1 ,france1 and ,germany1 but he says that the wine most in repute was a ,spanish wine called ,bastard1 which ,shakspeare mentions more than once1 as 7#a ,henry ,,iv4 act ii4 sc4 #d7 ,prince ,henry relating his adventures with a drawer1 says1 8,anon1 anon1 sir6 ,score a pint of ,bastard in the ,half ,moon40 ,illustration ,he gives receipts for making ,hydromel1 or ,mead1 which was to be made of one part honey1 and four of boiling water1 to be well stirred1 boiled1 and skimmed4 ,hops were then to be added1 then casked1 and brewers' yeast added4 ,then to be strained1 and it was fit for drinking in eight days4 ,he tells a pathetic story of ,king ,hunding1 who being sorely grieved at the loss of his brother-in-law1 ,gutthorm1 called all his nobility around him to a great feast1 and had a large tun1 filled with hydromel1 placed in the middle of the hall4 ,when his guests were sufficiently inebriated1 he threw himself into the liquor1 and died sweetly4 ,illustration ,beer had they1 made of malt and hops1 and he gives various methods of brewing1 and also a list of divers beers and their medicinal qualities4 ,illustration ,he also gives an illustration of various drinking vessels then 7#afth cent47 in use among the ,danes and ,swedes1 where is here reproduced4 ,here we see some plain1 others ornamental with runes1 and some with very curious handles4 ,he says they were mostly of brass1 copper1 or iron1 because in that cold climate the liquor they held had to be warmed over the fire4 ,an old translation of a portion of his ,historia de ,gentibus ,septentrionalibus gives the following account 8,of the manner of drinking amongst the ,northern ,people40 ,illustration 8,it will not displease curious ,readers to hear how the custom is of drinking amongst the ,northern ,people4 ,first1 they hold it ,religion to drink the healths of ,kings and ,princes1 standing1 in reverence of them2 and here they will1 as it were1 sweat in the contention1 who shall at one or two1 or more draughts1 drink off a huge bowl4 ,wherefore they seem to sit at ,table as if they had ,crowns on their heads1 and to drink in a certain kind of vessel2 which1 it may be1 may cause men that know it not1 to admire it4 ,but that were more admirable to see the servants go in a long train1 in troops1 as ,pastours of ,harts with horns1 that they may drink up those ,cups full of beer to the ,ghests4 ,and1 not content with these ,ceremonies1 they will strive to shew their ,sobriety1 by setting such a high ,cup full of ,beer upon their naked heads1 and dance and turn round with it2 in like manner they deliver other ,cups which they bring in both hands to the ,ghests to drink off1 at equall draughts1 which are full of ,wine1 ,ale1 ,mede1 ,metheglin1 or new ,wine40 ,illustration ,he winds up with a moral dissertation on the punishment of drinkers1 and1 after detailing the various effects of alcohol on different races1 as rendering the ,gaul petulant1 the ,german quarrelsome1 the ,goth obstreperous1 and the ,finn lachrymose1 he suggests that drunkards should be seated on a sharp wedge1 compelled to drink a mighty horn of beer1 and then be hauled up and down by a rope4 ,j4 ,a4 ,illustration ,,wines4 ,definition--,various ,meanings of ,wine--,alcohol--,varieties of ,wine--,miller--,professor ,mulder--,origin of ,wine--,brook of ,eshcol--,strabo and ,reland--,francatelli's ,order of ,wines--,classification of ,m4 ,batalhai ,reis4 ,in the matter of wine1 as in that of beer1 it is perhaps as well to commence with a dictionary description or definition4 ,ogilvie declares it to be the 8fermented juice of the grape1 or fruit of the vine40 ,it is1 however1 also the juice of certain fruits1 prepared in imitation of wine obtained from grapes1 but distinguished by naming the source whence it is derived1 as currant wine1 gooseberry wine1 etc42 and a third meaning of wine--a meaning with which we have happily little to do--is the effect of drinking wine in excess1 or intoxication4#ag ,wines are practically distinguished by their colour1 flavour1 stillness or effervescence1 and what is known as hardness or softness4 ,the differences in quality depend on the vines1 the soils1 the exposure of the vineyards1 the treatment of the grapes1 and the mode of manufacture4 ,the alcohol#ah contained is the leading characteristic4 ,in strong ports and sherries this varies from about #af to #be per cent4 ,it is about #g per cent4 in claret1 hock1 and other so-called light wines4 ,wine containing about #ac per cent4 of alcohol may be assumed to be fortified1 as it is called1 with brandy or other spirit4 ,the varieties of wine produced are said to be 8almost endless40 ,this great number of wines is in some measure owing to an interesting fact mentioned by ,miller in his ,organic ,chemistry 7#crd ed4 p4 #ahg71 who tells us that a particular variety of grape1 when grown upon the ,rhine1 furnishes a species of hock2 the same grape1 when raised in the valley of the ,tagus1 yields ,bucellas1 in which the palate of a connoisseur may possibly detect the flavour of hock2 whilst in the island of ,madeira the same grape produces the wine known as ,sercial1 which1 though generally allowed to be a delicious wine1 has suggested1 it seems1 to no skilled palate the flavour either of ,bucellas or of hock4 ,it would therefore be more logical to commence an article on wines with an article on the grapes from which they are produced1 but we fear it would be far less interesting4 ,of the chemical composition of wine1 and of its uses in health and disease1 on which so many books from the days of old have been already written1 we shall1 in accordance with our preface1 say nothing at all1 or very little4 ,every person who feels himself or herself interested in this latter matter may learn as much as he or she will from the pages of the ,lancet1 while ,professor ,mulder has probably written enough about the former to satisfy the most anxious student4 ,the origin of most things is obscure4 ,treatises have been composed about that of wine4 ,we have no intention of reproducing aught of them in the present work4 ,let us be content to suppose that wine had its origin1 again like most things1 somewhere at some time in the ,east4 ,the date of its introduction into ,greece is no more known than that of its introduction into ,italy4 ,a traditional credit is due to ,saturn1 to ,noah1 and to ,bacchus as early wine manufacturers4 ,certainly in ,palestine they had the advantage of fine grapes4 ,on the well-known historic occasion of ,moses sending men to search the land of ,canaan1 in the time of the first ripe fruit1 we learn that when they came unto the brook of ,eshcol1 they cut down from thence a branch with one cluster of grapes and 8bare it between two upon a staff40 ,it has been perhaps somewhat hastily assumed that the fruit was therefore necessarily of a large size4 ,there may have been other reasons for this proceeding than an enormity of weight4 ,but if1 as is generally imagined1 these grapes were unusually fine and large1 wine makers would be clearly benefited thereby4 ,in support of this interpretation of the passage in ,numbers1 ,strabo has declared that some of the grapes in the ,holy ,land measured two feet in length2 and ,reland has not hesitated to declare1 as if unwilling to be outdone by ,strabo1 that some bunches are of ten pounds weight4 ,this prefatory matter could make no pretence to completeness if it omitted an instruction for the service of wines1 denoting the order in which they should be drank at the dinner table1 which has already been given by an adept4 ,whether the matter is more admirable1 or the style1 it is difficult to determine4 8,i would recommend10 says ,francatelli1 8all bon vivants desirous of testing and thoroughly enjoying a variety of delectable wines1 without being incommoded by the diversity of those introduced for their learned degustation1 to bear in mind that they should be drunk in the following order20 viz41 8,when it happens that oysters preface the dinner1 a glass of ,chablis or ,sauterne is their most proper accompaniment40 ,after soup of any kind1 genuine old ,madeira1 ,east ,india ,sherry1 or ,amontillado are recommended as 8welcome stomachics40 ,but you are to avoid1 as you value your health1 drinking punch after ,turtle soup1 especially ,roman punch4 ,with fish1 a large variety of wines1 such as ,pouilly1 ,meursault1 ,montrachet1 ,barsac1 and generally all dry white wines1 is allowed4 ,with the entres you are permitted to drink any variety of ,bordeaux or ,burgundy4 ,second course and dessert wines are given at too great a length to admit of reproduction4 ,about these a 8question of the highest importance0 arises as to which should be preferred4 ,but here ,francatelli remembers a fact which might have spared him his vast labour on this service of wines3 that 8it is difficult1 not to say impossible1 to lay down rules for the guidance of the palate40 ,the sanguine person1 we are told1 will prefer the genuine ,champagne2 the phlegmatic1 ,sherry or ,madeira4 ,the splenetic and melancholy man will be prone to select ,roussillon and ,burgundy4 ,the bilious will imbibe ,bordeaux4 ,in few words1 8,burgundy is aphrodisiac1 ,champagne is captious1 ,roussillon restorative1 and ,bordeaux stomachic40 ,by careful attention to the foregoing remarks1 the reader will happily be preserved from any serious mistake in the matter of his dinner4 ,but other meals must also be taken into consideration1 about which ,francatelli preserves a ,sibylline and mysterious silence4 ,for instance1 luncheon4 ,we learn1 however1 from another source that there are luncheon sherries and dessert sherries4 ,with lunch the brown1 rich1 and full-bodied ,raro may be suitably drunk2 but the pale ,solera and the soft yet nutty ,oloroso should make their appearance at dessert alone4 ,m4 ,batalhai ,reis1 ,consul for ,portugal at ,newcastle-on-,tyne1 in a report on the wine trade of ,england1 has troubled himself thus in the interests of posterity to classify the wines of the world4 ,,class ,i4--,,table ,,wines4 ,alcohol and sugar imperceptible4 ,taste acid and astringent4 ,division ,a4 ,red4 ,group #a4 ,acid4 ,examples3 ,inferior ,bordeaux and ,burgundies1 ,wines from ,north of ,portugal4 ,group #b4 ,astringent4 ,examples3 ,superior ,bordeaux and ,burgundies1 ,collares from ,portugal4 ,division ,b4 ,white4 ,group #a4 ,simple ,flavour4 ,example3 ,rhine ,wines4 ,group #b4 ,complex ,flavour4 ,example3 ,bucellas of ,portugal4 ,,class ,,ii4--,,transition ,,wines4 ,alcohol and sugar perceptible4 ,taste astringent4 ,flavour complex4 ,division ,a4 ,red4 ,examples3 ,many ,spanish and ,portuguese wines4 ,division ,b4 ,white4 ,examples3 ,many ,spanish and ,portuguese wines4 ,,class ,,iii4--,,generous ,,wines4 #ast ,family4 ,madeira type4 ,wines of the ,canaries1 ,azores1 ,lisbon2 ,carcanellas1 ,sherry1 ,marsala1 and ,cyprian wines4 #bnd ,family4 ,port type4 #crd ,family4 ,tokay1 ,malaga4 #dth ,family4 ,chteau ,yquem1 ,johannisberg1 ,steinberg4 ,,class ,,iv4--,,sparkling ,,wines4 ,group ,a4 ,natural4 ,group ,b4 ,artificial4 ,this division of the wines of the world is presented to the reader as a literary curiosity4 ,it is at once simple and scientific4 ,in a word1 no book on wines can be considered complete without it4 ,in the succeeding pages ,wines as ,beers are1 for convenience of reference1 arranged after the alphabetical order of their countries4 ,,africa3 ,constantias--,rota--,mascara4 ,,america3 ,catawbas--,muscatel--,chacoli--,mosto4 ,,australia3 ,carbinet--,kaludah--,verdeilho--,conatt o4 ,,canaries3 ,vidueo--,sack4 ,,england3 ,home-made ,wines4 ,,africa4 ,of this country the most important wines of the present are1 perhaps1 ,pontac1 ,hanepoot1 ,frontignac1 and ,drakenstein4 ,on the wines of the ,cape of ,good ,hope1 ,dr4 ,edward ,kretschmar is a great authority4 ,kokwyn1 made from ,muscat grapes1 resembles ,malaga4 ,the best dry white wines1 called ,cape ,hocks1 are produced in the village of ,paarl4 ,the ,constantias1 so called from the wife of the ,dutch governor1 ,van der ,stell1 are of three kinds4 ,these excellent sweet wines are too frequently falsified and adulterated before reaching the palate of the ,english consumer4 ,a red wine1 called ,rota1 is made at ,stellenbosch4 ,cape ,madeira is a boiled and mixed wine4 ,stein wine is excellent when old4 ,red ,cape1 when drunk in the country1 is a 8sound1 good wine10 says ,cyrus ,redding4#ai ,the wine of ,morocco is chiefly made by the ,jews2 it is light1 acid1 and will not keep4 ,in ,tetuan a wine is made nearly equal1 according to ,cyrus ,redding1 to the ,spanish wine of ,xeres4 ,palm wines are1 of course1 common4 ,the people of ,cacongo prepare a wine called ,embeth1 and those of ,benin ,pali and ,pardon4 ,the ,caffres make a wine called ,pombie1 from millet or ,guinea corn4#bj ,in ,congo they drink a wine called ,milaffo1 which will not keep beyond three days4 ,of the many wines produced at ,algiers1 the best is probably the white wine of ,mascara1 situated on a slope of the plane of ,egbris1 #a1hjj feet above the sea level4 ,the ,arabic name of the place is a corruption of ,umm-al-asakir1 or the ,mother of ,soldiers4 ,the wine is the principal industry of ,algiers4 ,it is eagerly bought up by agents of ,bordeaux houses4 ,wines of inferior quality are made at ,boue1 ,tlemcen1 ,medeah1 and ,milianah4 ,the wines of ,oran are said to resemble the small wines of ,languedoc4 ,in ancient times the valley of the ,nile produced the wines of ,mareotis1 ,mendes1 ,koptos1 and ,arsinoe1 and its ,delta the liqueur wine of ,sebenytus4 ,,america4 ,the first attempt to cultivate the vine in ,north ,america was made1 we are informed by ,drs4 ,thudichum and ,dupr1 in #aefd4 ,some of its best known wines at the present time are the ,catawbas#ba 7still and sparkling71 red ,aliso and ,angelico4 ,wine has been made from the vines on the ,ohio1 said to resemble ,bordeaux in quality4 ,in several parts of ,mexico1 as at ,passo del ,norte1 at ,zalaya1 and at ,st4 ,louis de la ,paz1 wines are made of tolerable flavour4 ,the red wine of ,california is agreeable4 ,in ,florida1 according to ,sir ,john ,hawkins1 wine was made from a grape like that of ,orleans1 as far back as #aefd4 ,the island of ,cuba possesses a 8light1 cool1 sharp wine10 according to ,redding4 ,in ,south ,america wine was made long ago in ,paraguay4 ,a sweet wine resembling ,malaga is made at ,mendoza1 at the foot of the ,andes1 and is found to improve by transportation some thousand miles across the ,pampas4 ,the wines made in ,chili and ,peru are white and red4 ,the ,muscatel of ,chili is considered to be especially good4#bb ,the white wine of ,nasca is inferior4 ,the wine of ,pisco is highly esteemed4 ,though the white is held by connoisseurs to be superior to the red wine of ,chili1 yet it is little drunk in the cradle of its production4 ,chacoli is a wine commonly patronised by labourers4 ,the ,mosto of ,concepcion differs from ,mosto asoleado by the grapes of the latter being sundried for some twenty days4 ,,australia4 ,australian wines are pretty well known from our tradesmen's circulars4 ,for instance1 there is the ,gouais1 the ,carbinet1 a soft wine like ,burgundy1 the ,mataro1 the ,sauvignon4 ,there is that 8elegant dinner wine10 ,kaludah1 the ,singleton ,red or ,white ,hermitage1 8noted for its refinement02 the ,tintara ,ferruginous1 of 8immense power and generous quality02 the ,tokay ,imperatrice2 and the ,alexandrian ,moscat1 both poetically described as 8abounding in memories of the sun which begot them10 and possessing the 8most beautiful bouquet that can be imagined10 with a flavour 8resembling the first crush in the mouth of three or four fine ripe ,muscatel grapes--the large white oval ones--covered with a light bloom1 and attached to a clean1 thin stalk40 ,drs4 ,thudichum and ,dupr1 who are themselves indebted to a publication by ,toovey1 have given an excellent description of these wines4 ,verdeilho is a wine1 like ,madeira1 of delicate aroma and a full body2 ,frontignac is described as a thin white wine with a slight taste of the ,muscat grape1 being a fictitious elderflower flavour2 ,malbee is described as made from 8claret0 grape2 ,tavoora is described as a pure 8port0 of #ahei2 ,tintara1 a red1 clear wine2 ,adelaide1 a pure white wine1 mainly from ,riessling grapes with a soupon of ,muscatel1 8a little too fiery for greatness40 ,wattlesville is an acidulous white wine4 ,the poor and acid ,chasselas1 the strong-scented ,highercombe1 said to resemble good ,sauterne1 with many varieties of so-called claret1 as ,emu1 ,st4 ,hubert1 and so-called ,hock1 as ,heron and ,royal ,reserve1 are also imported from ,australia4 ,the ,conatto is a rich liqueur with a flavour of ,curaoa and ,rum ,shrub combined4 ,,canaries4 ,the ,canary ,islands have long been celebrated for their wines4 ,the favourite ,teneriffe wine is ,vidueo or ,vidonia4 ,canary sack is supposed to have been made from the ,malvasia sweet grape1 whereas the modern sack is dry 7sec74 ,the best vineyards are at ,orotava1 ,s4 ,ursula1 ,ycod de los ,vinos1 ,buenavista1 and ,valle de ,guerra4 ,,england4 ,british made wines hold no very high rank4 ,a cheap foreign manufacture is1 according to some of their vendors1 gradually ousting them from the market4 ,but at one time they formed a part of the education of the good housewives of ,great ,britain4 ,home wines were chiefly made from plums1 apples1 gooseberries1 bilberries1 elderberries1 blackberries1 currants 7red and black71 raspberries1 cherries1 cowslips1 parsnips1 raisins1 greengages1 damsons1 ginger1 oranges1 and lemons4 ,less commonly and in former times we had wines from mulberries1 quinces1 peaches1 apricots1 and from the sap of the birch1 beech1 sycamore1 and other trees4 ,years ago 8sweets0 or home-made wines were sent from ,scotland and ,ireland1 such as ginger wine and so-called cherry and raspberry whiskies4 ,the flowers of meadow-sweet 7,spira ulmaria7 yield a fragrant distilled water1 which is said to be used by wine merchants to improve the flavour of their wines4 ,in a little work by ,mr4 ,g4 ,vine on ,home-made ,wines1 the reader will find numerous receipts how to make and keep these wines1 with observations on gathering and preparing the fruit1 fining1 bottling1 and storing4 ,a correspondent of the ,gardeners' ,chronicle gives a receipt for beer wine1 a beverage which has puzzled many connoisseurs4 ,the curious may find it also quoted in ,vine's brochure4 ,the manufacture of home-made wines is familiar4 ,an excellent wine is sometimes made from a mixture of the fruits above mentioned1 as1 for instance1 that from gooseberries and currants4 ,all home-made wines are prone to run into acetous fermentation without the addition of a due proportion of pure spirits4 ,plums or sloes1 with other ingredients1 can1 it is said1 be turned into excellent fruity port1 the 8very choice0 kind1 silky1 soft1 and full bodied4 ,a wine said to be agreeable is also made from the red berries of the mountain ash or service-tree 7pyrus aucuparia74 ,birch wine is still made in some parts of ,england4 ,morewood gives a long receipt for its manufacture4 ,like most other wines1 it improves greatly with age4 ,this is especially true of parsnip wine4 ,from potatoes which have suffered a sort of malting from frost1 a tolerable wine has been obtained4 ,it is said--but there are people who will say anything--that a great portion of the champagne drunk in this country is made from sugar and green gooseberries4 ,rhubarb wine has been affirmed to be synonymous with ,british champagne4 ,the reader anxious on this subject may consult ,dr4 ,shannon's elaborate ,treatise on ,brewing4 ,cowslip wine is all too like some of the ,muscatel wines of ,southern ,france1 and the wine of the ,sambucus nigra has been more than once1 through some unlucky accident1 confused with ,frontignac4 ,illustration ,,french ,,wines4 ,the ,great ,makers of ,champagne--,its ,manufacture--,bottling--,treatment--,bo rdeaux or ,claret--,its early ,use and ,name--,whence it comes--,the different ,growths--,white ,wines of the ,district--,burgundy--,different ,growths and ,qualities--,other ,wines4 ,,champagne4 ,reims and ,epernay are the two great centres of the ,champagne district2 but ,reims1 from its size and antiquity1 must be considered its capital4 ,here are the establishments of ,pommery ,greno1 ,ernest ,moy1 ,thophile ,roederer ,co41 ,louis ,roederer ,co41 ,henriot ,co41 ,permet ,fils1 ,de ,st4 ,marceaux ,co41 ,werl ,co4 7successors to the renowned ,veuve ,cliquot71 ,heidsieck ,co41 ,de ,lossy ,co41 ,g4 ,h4 ,mumm ,co41 ,jules ,mumm ,co41 ,piper ,co41 and many others of lesser note4 ,the wines of this district have1 for centuries1 been famous1 and especially beloved of kings and potentates4 ,our ,henry ,,viii4 had a vineyard at ,ay1 and1 in order to know that he got the genuine article1 he had a superintendent of his own on the spot4 ,francis ,i41 ,leo ,x41 and ,charles ,v4 of ,spain1 all had vineyards in the ,champagne district4 ,but the wine they obtained thence was not sparkling3 that was to come later1 and is said to have been the invention of ,dom ,petrus ,perignon1 who died in #agae1 monk of1 and cellarer to1 the ,royal ,monastery of ,st4 ,peter's at ,hautvilliers4 ,he was especially happy in his blends of wine1 and having found out the secret of highly charging the wine1 naturally1 with carbonic acid1 is said to have introduced the cork and string necessary to confine it in its bottles4 ,champagne ,wine owes its goodness1 in the first place1 to the soil on which it is grown1 which is unique in its mixture of chalk1 silica1 light clay1 and oxide of iron2 in the second1 to the very great care and delicate manipulation which the wine receives4 ,every doubtful grape is discarded1 and the carts conveying the grapes from the vineyard go at a most funereal pace1 so that none of their precious contents should get bruised2 for if these little grapes 7for they are little larger than currants7 get at all crushed1 or partly fermented1 in carriage1 the fruit is rendered absolutely worthless for ,champagne purposes4 ,very great care1 too1 is exercised in the pressing4 ,the grapes are laid in carefully stacked heaps upon the floor of the press1 where they are left for a time1 and then the first gentle1 but firm1 sustained squeeze is applied4 ,the juice thus extracted is the cream of the grape1 and is used only for the finest brands4 ,there are six of these squeezes made1 each more powerful than the last2 and the result of each is1 of course1 inferior in quality to its predecessor1 till the sixth1 called the rbche1#bc is reached1 which produces a coarse wine1 reckoned only fit to be given to the workmen4 ,the must begins to ferment more or less quickly1 according to the temperature1 in the casks1 at the end of ten or twelve hours1 and the process continues for a considerable time1 during which the colour changes from pale pink to a light straw tint4 ,about three months are allowed to elapse1 when the fermentation stops through repeated rackings and the cold of the season4 ,and now the real trouble of the ,champagne manufacturer begins4 ,first1 there is the blend1 which varies in the case of each manufacturer4 ,the produce of the different vineyards is mixed in enormous vats1 according to the recipe in vogue in the particular establishment1 and to this mixture is added1 if necessary1 a proportion of some old wine of a superior vintage4 ,a most subtle1 carefully educated1 and exquisite taste is required to discern when the wine1 in this crude state1 has acquired the proper flavour and bouquet4 ,then comes the important point of effervescence--a source of much anxiety to the manufacturer1 for the extremest care is required to regulate the quantity of carbonic acid gas1 so that there shall be neither too little nor too much4 ,for if there be too little1 the wine will be flat2 and if there be too much1 the bottles will burst by thousands4 ,an instrument1 called a glucometer1 or saccharometer1 is used to measure the amount of saccharine matter in the wine at this point2 and if the necessary standard be not reached1 the deficiency is supplied by the purest sugar candy4 ,to the ordinary palate1 at this stage it differs in no respect from still white wine1 of somewhat tart flavour1 and is now drawn off into other casks to undergo the next treatment in the process2 viz41 the fining1 to make it bright1 and remove what is known to connoisseurs of wine as 8ropiness40 ,the wine is now ready for bottling1 and the danger to be avoided is the bursting of the bottles1 for the pressure of the gas is tremendous2 hence it is that the champagne bottle is the most solid and massive in use4 ,the bottling takes place1 as a rule1 about eight months after the grapes have been first pressed1 and the precautions against breakage are of the most minute description4 ,the instant any symptoms of bursting display themselves1 the wine has to be removed to a cooler temperature2 but even with every precaution1 the loss sustained by the bursting of bottles is often very serious indeed1 sometimes to an almost ruinous extent4 ,the risk of breakage is generally almost past by the end of ,october1 and the bottles are then kept in the cellars for a period ranging from eighteen months to three years1 according to the custom of the establishment4 ,but even now all is not over1 for1 during this period1 a sediment1 resulting from the fermentation of the wine1 has been deposited1 which must be removed before the wine is ready for consumption2 and very troublesome work it is to get rid of this sediment4 ,the bottles are placed in a slanting direction with the necks downward1 and the angle of inclination is altered from time to time till they stand almost perpendicular1 whilst every time the position is changed1 the bottle is sharply twisted round1 so that the sediment may not cling to the sides4 ,finally1 the deposit collects in a ball in the neck of the bottle1 from whence it is 8disgorged0--literally blown out--when the original cork is removed4 ,a temporary stopper is then inserted until the liqueur1 which is to give the wine its distinctive character1 dry or sweet1 is introduced4 ,this liquor consists of a preparation of the very finest sugar candy1 the best ,champagne1 and the oldest and purest ,cognac4 ,the next process is corking1 and1 as we all know1 champagne corks are not as other corks4 ,they are made larger than the vent of the bottle1 and are soaked in water1 and very often steamed4 ,they are somewhat expensive1 the best corks used costing about threepence each2 but it is a very false economy to use common corks1 for the gas would escape4 ,the pliant cork is placed in a machine which pinches it and compresses it to the size of the aperture of the bottle1 and holds it there till a twenty-pound weight is let drop1 on the principle of a pile-driving hammer1 and drives the cork in firmly4 ,the powerful leverage used to bring down the edge of the cork for wiring and stringing1 imparts the round-shaped top peculiar to champagne corks4 ,the bottles1 after being corked and wired1 are allowed to rest for two or three months1 in order that the wine and the liqueur may properly amalgamate1 and are then tinselled and labelled1 ready for the consumer2 but some of the best wines are kept for years to mature1 and are1 of course1 of far higher value4 ,a sweet ,champagne may be made of any wine1 but a dry ,champagne must be a good wine1 as1 if it is not sound1 its acidity is detected at once2 but this defect would be hidden by the liqueur necessary to make it sweet4 ,at ,epernay1 the bulk of the wine is not so good as that coming from ,reims1 and sells at a lower price2 but there are firms there of world-wide note1 such as ,moet ,chandon1 ,perrier1 ,joet ,co41 ,meunier ,frres1 ,wachter ,co41 etc4 ,,bordeaux ,,or ,,claret4 ,in ,england we generally call the wines coming from ,bordeaux1 ,clarets1 the derivation of which cognomen is somewhat obscure2 but it seems almost universally accepted that it comes from the ,french word ,clairet1 which is used even at the present time as a generic term for the vins ordinaires of a light and thin quality1 grown in the south of ,france1 and was in use from a very early date4 ,the old ,french poet1 ,olivier ,basselin 7who died #adah or #adai71 sings3-- 8,beau nez1 dont les rubis ont cot mainte pipe ,de vin blanc et clairet 4440 ,there was1 however1 another ,claret1 a compounded wine1 resembling hypocras1 which ,giraldus ,cambrensis1 who lived in the twelfth century1 classes thus3 8,claretum1 mustum1 et medonem0 7,claret1 must1 and mead74 ,and the venerable ,franciscan1 ,bartholomew ,glanville1#bd says3 8,claretum1 ex vino et melle et speciebus aromaticis est confectum0 7,claret is made from wine1 honey1 and aromatic spices74 ,it makes a marked feature in a curious tenure4#be 8,john de ,roches holds the ,manor of ,winterslew1 in the county of ,wilts1 by the ,service1 that when our ,lord the ,king should abide at ,clarendon1 he should come to the ,palace of the ,king there1 and go into the ,butlery1 and draw out of any vessel he should find in the said ,butlery at his choice1 as much ,wine as should be needful for making 7pro factura7 a ,pitcher of ,claret 7unius ,picheri ,claretti71 which he should make at the ,king's charge1 and that he should serve the ,king with a ,cup1 and should have the vessel from whence he took the ,wine1 with all the ,remainder of the ,wine left in the ,vessel1 together with the ,cup from whence the ,king should drink that ,claret40 ,this refers to a roll of #ej ,ed4 ,,iii41 or #acgf4 ,illustration3 ,,from ,,the 8,,compost ,,et ,,kalendrier ,,des ,,bergeres10 #adii4 ,but this is not the ,claret of our days1 which is the wine produced in the countries watered by the rivers ,dordogne and ,garonne and the ,gironde1 at least it should be so2 but1 in truth1 owing to the good railway communication1 wine comes to ,bordeaux from every part of ,france1 large quantities owing their birth to the banks of the ,rhone1 from the ,hrault1 ,roussillon1 etc42 and a judicious blending at ,bordeaux1 and its being shipped thence1 is a very good title to its being grown in the ,mdoc2 but the quantity shipped to all parts of the world1 compared with the acreage of growth1 entirely precludes the supposition that it possibly could have been the production of that district4 ,the nobility of the ,mdoc wines is small4 ,there are only four premiers crs1 but they are magnificent4 ,they are ,chteau ,lafitte1 ,chteau ,latour1 ,chteau ,margaux1 and ,chteau ,haut-,brion2 and all these1 especially the ,latour1 have a flavour and seductive bouquet all their own1 which is believed to arise from an extremely volatile oil contained in the grape skins1 which1 like all ethers1 requires time to evolve and mature4 ,but the soil1 undoubtedly1 has most to do with it1 and this must be in a very large degree composed of fragments of rock1 small and large1 while the smooth round pebbles reflect the rays of the sun and throw them upwards1 so as almost to surround the grapes with light and heat4 ,again1 these stones absorbing the sun's rays during the day1 give out warmth after sunset1 whilst they keep the roots of the vines cool1 and prevent to a great degree the evaporation of the natural and necessary moisture of the earth4 ,but these premiers crs are not always good2 for instance1 in #ahfi1 ,messrs4 ,fulcher ,baines1 wine brokers1 sold by auction a very large parcel of ,chteau ,margaux for about #cjs4 per dozen4 ,there was no doubt but that it was genuine wine1 bottled at the ,chteau1 for the cases and corks were all properly branded2 but of such low quality was it1 or it deteriorated so rapidly1 that when sold again in #ahga the same wine only averaged #ahs4 per dozen4 ,the #bnd ,growths are3-- ,mouton1 coming from ,pauillac4 ,rauzan-,segla1 0 ,margaux4 ,rauzan-,gassies1 0 0 ,loville-,las ,cases1 0 ,st4 ,julien4 ,loville-,poyfr1 0 0 ,loville-,barton1 0 0 ,durfort-,vivens1 0 ,margaux4 ,lascombes1 0 0 ,gruard-,la rose-,sarg1 0 ,st4 ,julien4 ,gruard-,la rose1 0 0 ,braune-,cantenac1 0 ,cantenac4 ,pichon-,longueville1 0 ,pauillac4 ,pichon-,longueville-,lalande1 0 0 ,ducru-,beaucaillou1 0 ,st4 ,julien4 ,cos-,destournel1 0 ,st4 ,estphe4 ,montrose1 0 0 #crd ,growths4 ,kirwan1 coming from ,cantenac4 ,chteau-d',issau1 0 0 ,lagrange1 0 ,st4 ,julien4 ,langoa1 0 0 ,chteau-,giscours1 0 ,labarde4 ,malescot-,st4 ,exupry1 0 ,margaux4 ,cantenac-,brown1 0 ,cantenac4 ,palmer1 0 0 ,la ,lagune1 0 ,ludon4 ,desmirail1 0 ,margaux4 ,calon-,sgur1 0 ,st4 ,estphe4 ,ferrire1 0 ,margaux4 ,m4 d',alesmeis ,becker1 0 0 #dth ,growths4 ,st4 ,pierre1 coming from ,st4 ,julien4 ,branair-,duluc1 0 0 ,talbot1 0 0 ,duhart-,milon1 0 ,pauillac4 ,poujet1 0 ,cantenac4 ,la ,tour-,carnet1 0 ,st4 ,laurent4 ,rochet1 0 ,st4 ,estphe4 ,chteau-,beychevelle1 0 ,st4 ,julien4 ,la ,prieur1 0 ,cantenac4 ,marquis de ,therme1 0 ,margaux4 #eth ,growths4 ,pontet-,canet1 coming from ,pauillac4 ,batailley1 0 0 ,grand-,puy-,lacoste1 0 0 ,ducasse-,grand-,puy1 0 ,pauillac4 ,lynch-,bages1 0 0 ,lynch-,moussas1 0 0 ,dauzac1 0 ,labarde4 ,moulton d',armailhacq1 0 ,pauillac4 ,le ,tertre1 0 ,arsac4 ,haut-,bages1 0 ,pauillac4 ,pdesclaux1 0 0 ,belgrave1 0 ,st4 ,laurent4 ,camensac1 0 0 ,cos-,labory1 0 ,st4 ,estphe4 ,clerc-,milon1 0 ,pauillac4 ,croizet-,bages1 0 0 ,cantemerle1 0 ,macau4 ,these are only some of the wines of the ,mdoc1 so that ,i may be excused from recapitulating the names of the different growths of the ,graves1 the ,pays de ,sauternes1 the ,ctes1 the ,palus1 and those of ,entredeux ,mers--their name is legion1 and it would answer no good purpose4 ,cocks1 in his ,bordeaux and its ,wines1 gives a list of #a1ijj of the principal growths1 so that we can have a good choice of names from which to christen our 8,shilling ,gladstone40 ,the wines of ,bordeaux used to be greatly drank in ,england until the great wars with ,france--in the last century1 when1 of course1 their importation was prohibited--but1 even then1 large quantities were smuggled4 ,they must1 however1 have been of better quality than the cheap stuff now imported4 ,in ,scotland1 where an affinity with ,france always existed1 it was a common drink1 and very cheap2 for in ,campbell's ,life of ,lord ,loughborough 7vi4 #bi71 we find that excellent claret was drawn from the cask at eighteenpence a quart3 and its downfall as a beverage in ,scotland is thus sung by ,john ,home1 probably in allusion to the ,methuen ,treaty of #agjc4 8,firm and erect the ,caledonian stood1 ,prime was his mutton1 and his claret good3 ,let him drink port1 an ,english ,statesman cried2 ,he drank the poison1 and his spirit died40 ,the white wines of these districts are delicious1 and are not sufficiently appreciated in ,england1 where we know very little of the ,sauternes1 ,bommes1 ,barsac1 ,fargues1 ,st4 ,pierre de ,mons1 ,preignac1 and those of ,petits ,graves and the ,ctes4 ,chief of all is the wine of ,chteau d',yquem1 of which ,vizitelly#bf thus writes3-- 8,among the white wines of the ,gironde which obtained the higher class reward1 two require to be especially mentioned4 ,one1 the renowned ,chteau d',yquem of the ,marquis de ,lur ,saluces1 the most luscious and delicately aromatic of wines1 which1 for its resplendent colour1 resembling liquid gold1 its exquisite bouquet1 and rich1 delicious flavour1 due1 according to the chemists1 to the presence of ,mannite1 is regarded in ,france as unique1 and which1 at ,vienna1 naturally met with the recognition of a medal for progress4 8,mannite1 the distinguished ,french chemist ,berthelot informs us1 has the peculiar quality of not becoming transformed into alcohol and carbonic acid during the process of fermentation4 ,for a tonneau of this splendid wine twelve years old1 bought direct from the ,chteau1 the ,grand ,duke ,constantine paid1 some few years since1 #bj1jjj francs1 or #hjj4 ,the other wine calling for notice was ,la ,tour ,blance1 one of those magnificent1 liqueur-like ,sauternes1 ranking immediately after ,chteau d',yquem1 and to some fine samples of which1 of the vintages of #ahfd and #ahfe1 a medal for merit was awarded4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,dilettante ,,society4 ,in this illustration of 8the ,dilettante ,society0 we find that ,noblemen and ,gentlemen such as ,lord ,mulgrave1 ,lord ,seaforth1 ,hon4 ,chas4 ,greville1 ,charles ,crowle1 and the ,duke of ,leeds1 drank their claret out of the black bottle--dispensing with the decanter altogether4 8,the characteristic qualities of ,chteau d',yquem1 which certain soi-disant connoisseurs pretend to pooh-pooh1 as a mere ordinary vin de liqueur1 are due1 in no degree1 to simple accident4 ,on the contrary1 the vintaging of this wine is an extremely complicated and delicate affair4 ,in order to insure the excessive softness and rich liqueur character which are its distinguishing qualities1 the grapes1 naturally excessively sweet and juicy1 are allowed to dry on their stalks1 preserved1 as it were1 by the rays of the sun1 until they become covered with a kind of down1 which gives to them an almost mouldy appearance4 ,during this period1 the fruit1 under the influence of the sun1 ferments within its skin1 thereby attaining the requisite degree of ripeness1 akin to rottenness4 8,on the occasion of the vintage1 as it is absolutely essential that the grapes should be gathered1 not only when perfectly dry1 but also warm1 the cutters never commence work until the sun has attained a certain height1 and invariably suspend their labours when rain threatens1 or mists begin to rise4 ,at the first gathering they detach simply the graines rties1 or such grapes as have dried after arriving at proper maturity1 rejecting those which have shrivelled without thoroughly ripening1 and1 from the former1 a wine of extreme softness and density1 termed crme de tte1 is produced4 8,by the time the first gathering has terminated1 other grapes will have sufficiently ripened and rotted1 or dried1 and both sorts are now detached1 yielding the wine called vin de tte1 distinguished by equal softness with the crme de tte1 but combined with a larger amount of alcohol1 and greater delicacy of flavour4 ,at this point1 a delay generally ensues1 according to the state of the weather1 it being requisite1 towards the end of ,october1 to wait while the rays of the sun1 combined with the night dews1 bring the remainder of the grapes to maturity1 when the third gathering takes place1 from which the wine1 termed centre1 frequently very fine and spirituous1 is produced4 ,another delay now ensues1 and then commences the final gathering1 when all the grapes remaining on the stalks are picked1 which1 when the vintage has been properly conducted1 is usually only a very small quantity1 yielding what is termed the vin de queue40 ,however1 although it is not given to all of us to be able to afford ,chteau d',yquem1 yet there are many of the other white wines of ,france1 which are within ordinary limits1 and which compare more than favourably with the red wines4 ,,burgundy ,,and ,,other ,,wines4 ,verily there cannot be much amiss with wine that causes a holy man 7by profession7 to break forth into song as follows3-- 8,nous les boirons lentement1 ,nous les boirons tendrement1 ,ton ,clos ,vougeot1 ton ,romane3 ,par nous la sainte liqueur1 ,qui nous rechauffe le cur1 ,ne sera jamais profane40 ,more generous than the wines of ,bordeaux1 it has been the drink of ,kings and ,popes1 and perhaps no vineyard has a similar honour done it as that of ,clos-,vougeot 7,napoleon's favourite wine72 for when a ,french regiment marches past that celebrated vineyard1 it halts1 and presents arms4 ,on the golden slope--the ,cte d',or--is grown this wine of ,burgundy1 and the vignerons divide the district into two parts1 the ,cte de ,nuits and the ,cte de ,beaune1 the first of which produces the finest wines1 from ,vosne especially1 whence come ,romane-,conti1 ,la ,tche1 ,richebourg1 ,romane-,st4 ,vivant1 ,la ,grande ,rue1 ,gaudichat1 ,malconsort1 and others2 but of all these ,romane ,conti is king4 ,unfortunately the yield of this vineyard is very small1 and genuine ,romane is seldom to be met with4 ,but there are plenty of good wines to be bought at moderate prices1 those of ,chambertin1 ,volnay1 ,beaune1 ,mcon1 and ,beaujolais4 ,chief among the white ,burgundies is ,chablis2 but there are other sorts1 not half enough drank in ,england--,mcon1 ,pouilly1 ,meursault1 ,chevalier-,montrachet1 ,montrachet-,ain1 and many other fine white wines4 ,sparkling ,burgundy is not to be despised4 ,the ,ctes du ,rhone produce fine wines1 too1 such as ,hermitage1 ,cte ,rtie1 ,condrieu1 and ,st4 ,peray2 but of these1 perhaps1 ,hermitage red and white are best known to us4 ,much wine is made in the ,south of ,france1 in the departments of the ,hrault1 the ,gard1 the ,aude1 and the ,pyrenes-,orientales1 whilst ,languedoc has always been famous for its wines1 which are very similar to some ,spanish varieties4 ,roussillon is nearly as good as ,burgundy1 and1 after being manipulated at ,cette1 is often palmed off as 8,vintage ,port10 and the ,muscat wines of the ,hrault and the ,pyrenes-,orientales are particularly luscious1 especially those from ,lunel4 ,some wines come from ,corsica1 but they do not find their way1 as such1 into the ,english market2 no doubt1 though1 but we have them in some shape1 for the mystifications of the wine trade are stupendous1 and1 to an outsider1 unfathomable4 ,j4 ,a4 ,illustration ,,germany3 ,rhine ,wines--,heidelberg ,tun--,hock--,stein-wein--,asmannhuser-- ,straw ,wines--,goethe's ,opinion of ,wine ,,greece3 ,verdea--,vino ,santo--,the ,wine of ,night4 ,,hungary3 ,maszlacz--,tokay--,carlowitz--,erlauer4 ,,italy3 ,monte ,pulciano--,chianti--,barolo--,barbera-- ,montefiascone--,lacryma ,christi1 etc4 ,,madeira3 ,malvasia--,tinta--,bual1 etc4 ,,persia3 ,shiraz4 ,,germany4 ,the ,germans1 says ,cyrus ,redding1 like vain men of other nations1 have wasted a good deal of idle conjecture on the antiquity of the culture of the vine in their country2 and then1 as though to show by example that this waste of idle conjecture is not confined to the ,germans1 ,mr4 ,redding continues the investigation of this important matter himself4 ,in the opinion of an experienced merchant these wines have a 8distinct character and classification of their own40 ,their alcoholic strength is low1 averaging about #ah per cent4 ,illustration3 ,this illustration dates #afjh as 8,a ,sciographie or ,modell of that stupendous vessel which is at this day shewed in the ,pallace of the ,count ,palatine of ,rhene in the citie of ,heidelberg40 ,a model of this ,tun was shown at the ,german ,exhibition held in ,london1 #ahia4 ,its capacity was eclipsed by a famous tonneau1 elaborately ornamented with allegorical figures1 etc41 which was shown in the ,french ,exhibition of #ahhi4 ,it would hold #bjj1jjj bottles of ,champagne1 and came from ,epernay4 ,it had to be drawn by a large team1 by road1 and the ,french press was full of its imaginary adventures on its journey to ,paris4 ,to the north of ,coblentz the wines are of little comparative value1 though a ,rhenish wine has been produced at ,bodendorf1 near ,bonn4 ,on the ,rhine or its tributary rivers between ,coblentz and ,mayence1 all the most celebrated wines of ,germany are grown4 ,the grapes preferred for general cultivation are the ,riessling1 a small1 white1 harsh species4 ,the true ,hochheimer1 daily consumed in ,germany1 is grown to the eastward of ,mentz1 between there and ,frankfort4 ,the wines mellow best in large vessels1 an experience which has produced the celebrated ,heidelberg ,tun1 holding some six hundred hogsheads4 ,the distinguishing characteristics of ,german wine have been said to be generosity1 dryness1 fine flavour1 and endurance of age4 ,the dyspeptic will learn with delight that the strong wines of the ,rhine are extremely salutary1 and contain less acid than any other4 ,it is also averred that they are never saturated with brandy4 ,liebfrauenmilch#bg is grown at ,worms4 ,it is full bodied1 as is that of ,scharlachberg4 ,wines of ,nierstein1#bh ,laubenheim1 and ,oppenheim are good1 but ,deidesheimer is considered superior to them4 ,hock#bi is derived from ,hochheim2 but nearly every town on the banks of the ,rhine gives its name to some lauded vintage4 ,the flavour of ,hock is supposed to be improved by thin green glasses4 ,perhaps1 says the judicious ,redding1 this is mere fancy4 ,the ,palatinate wines are cheaper ,hocks4 ,moselles have a more delicate perfume4 ,the whole eastern bank of the ,rhine to ,lorich1 called the ,rheingau1 about fourteen miles in extent1 has been famous for its wines for ages4 ,naturally1 therefore1 it was once the property of the ,church4 ,here is ,schloss-,johannisberger1 once nearly destroyed by ,general ,hoche1 where a leading ,rhine wine is made4 ,steinberger takes the next rank to ,johannisberger4 ,grfenberg1 also once ecclesiastical property1 produces wine equal to ,rdesheimer1 which is a wine of the first ,rhine growths4 ,marcobrunner1 ,roth1 ,knigsbach are excellent drinks4 ,bacharach has lost its former celebrity4 ,the conclusion to which a celebrated connoisseur has arrived after an exhaustive examination of ,german wines is this3 8,on the whole1 the wines of ,bischeim1 ,asmannshuser1 and ,laubenheim are very pleasant wines2 those of rather more strength are ,marcobrunner1 ,rdesheimer and ,niersteiner1 while those of ,johannisberg1 ,geissenheim1 and ,hochheim give the most perfect delicacy and aroma40 ,the ,germans themselves say ,rhein-wein1 fein-wein2 ,necker-wein1 lecker-wein2 ,franken-wein1 tranken-wein2 ,mosel-wein1 unnosel-wein4#cj ,illustration ,the red wines of the ,rhine are considered inferior to the white4 ,red ,asmannshuser is perhaps the best4 ,near ,lintz ,blischert is made4 ,knigsbach and ,altenahr yield ordinary wines4 ,the most celebrated of ,moselle wines is the ,brauneberger1 of which the varieties are numerous4 ,a variety called ,gruenhuser was formerly styled the ,nectar of the ,moselle4 ,the wines of ,ahr1 of which some are red1 resemble ,moselles1 but will keep longer4 ,of the wines of the ,neckar the most celebrated is ,besigheimer4 ,baden1 ,wiesbaden1 ,wangen1 and ,wrtzberg1 all grow good wines4 ,of the last is ,stein-wein1 produced on a mountain so called1 and named by the ,hospital to which it belongs1 ,wine of the ,holy ,ghost4 ,leisten wines are grown on ,mt4 ,saint ,nicolas4 ,straw wines are made in ,franconia4 ,calmus1 a liqueur wine1 like the sweet wines of ,hungary1 is made in the territory of ,frankfurt4 ,the best vineyards are those of ,bischofsheim4 ,wines of ,saxony are of little worth4 ,meissen and ,guben produce the best4 ,naumburg makes some small wines1 like inferior ,burgundy4 ,the excellence of the ,rhine wines has seldom perhaps been proved more clearly than by one who loved them well4 ,goethe1 in his ,aus einer ,reise am ,rhein1 ,main und ,neckar1 says3 8,niemand schmt sich der ,weinlust1 sie rhmen sich einigermaassen des ,trinkens4 ,hbsche ,frauen gestehen dass ihre ,kinder mit der ,mutterbrust zugleich ,wein geniessen4 ,wir fragten ob denn wahr sey1 dass es geistlichen ,herren1 ja ,kurfrsten geglckt1 acht ,rheinische ,maass1 das heisst sechzehn unserer ,bouteillen1 in vierundzwanzig ,stunden zu sich zunehmen8 ,ein scheinbar ernsthafter ,gast bemerkte1 man drfe sich zu ,beantwortung dieser ,frage nur der ,fastenpredigt ihres ,weihbischofs erinnern1 welcher1 nachdem er das schreckliche ,laster der ,trunkenheit seiner ,gemeinde mit den strksten ,farben dargestellt1 also geschlossen habe--0 ,but for those who understand not the ,german tongue we will give some of the sermon of this ,church dignitary on the ,rochusberg in ,english4 8,those1 my pious brethren1 commit the greatest sin who misuse ,god's glorious gifts4 ,but the misuse excludes not the use4 ,wine1 it is written1 rejoices man's heart4 ,therefore we are clearly intended to enjoy it4 ,now perhaps1 beloved brethren1 there is not one of you who cannot drink two measures of wine without feeling any ill effects therefrom2 he1 however1 who with his third or fourth measure has so far forgotten himself as to abuse1 beat and kick his wife and children1 and to treat his dearest friend as his worst enemy1 let such a one discontinue to drink three or four measures1 which thus render him unpleasing to ,god and despicable to man4 ,but he who with the fourth measure1 nay1 with his fifth or his sixth1 still maintains his sense in such a manner that he can behave properly to his fellow-,christian1 attend to his domestic duties1 and obey his spiritual superiors as he ought1 let him be thankful in modesty for the gift accorded to him4 ,but let him not advance beyond the sixth measure1 for here commonly is the term set to human power and endurance4 ,rare indeed is the occasion in which the benevolent ,god has lent a man such especial grace that he may drink eight measures--a grace which ,he has1 however1 accorded to me ,his servant4 ,let1 therefore1 every one take only his allotted measure und auf dass ein solches geschehe1 alles ,ubermaass dagegen verbannt sey1 handelt smmtlich nach der ,vorschrift des heiligen ,apostels welcher spricht2 ,prfet alles und das ,beste behaltet60 ,illustration3 8,,tasting ,,the ,,vintage40--,after ,hasenclever4 ,,greece4 ,the vinification of ,greece is commonly imperfect4 ,most of its wines become vinegar in summer4 ,avoid1 says a well-known guide-book1 the wine of this country1 which is generally acid and always impure4#ca ,the best ,greek wines are those of the islands ,ithaca1 ,zante1 ,tenos1 ,samos1 ,thera 7,santorin71#cb and ,cyprus4 ,the white wine of ,zante1 called ,verdea1 resembles ,madeira in flavour4 ,the wine of ,naxos is of considerable strength1 and is greatly improved by age4 ,a quantity of it1 known as ,vino ,santo1 is exported4 ,andros was sacred to ,dionysus1 and a tradition 7,plin4 ii4 #ajc2 xxxi4 #ac2 ,paus4 vi4 #bf7 says that for seven days during a festival of this god the waters of a certain fountain were changed to wine4 ,the wine did no credit to the god1 if it resembled that which this island at present produces4 ,the 8,nectar0 of ,morta is bitter and astringent4 ,dr4 ,charnock has recommended the ,monthymet as a good mild wine1 and the conomos4 ,a white wine1 called 8the wine of night10 is supplied under the distinctive names of ,st4 ,elie and ,calliste2 the latter is the better4 ,,hungary4 ,the wines of ,hungary1 we are told1 8possess considerable body with a moderate astringency40 ,the varieties of wine known as ,ausbruch and ,maszlacs1 including the ,tokays1 ,rust1 ,menes1 and many more1 are of the most important character4 ,without the addition of dry berries the so-called natural wine or ,szamorodni is obtained4 ,the ,tokay essence1 a very sweet wine1 should be also very old4 ,when fifty years in bottle it costs some #ccc for a small flask4 ,ausbruch1 also sweet1 should be also old4 ,maszlacz is of four different kinds4 ,the ,mezes1 ,male or ,imperial1 does not get into trade4 ,meograd1 ,krasso1 and ,villany from the ,west of ,hungary are good strong wines of the second class4 ,wines of the third class are very numerous4 ,there is no space to mention more than the red wines3 ,baranya1 ,presburger1 ,somogy1 ,vagh-,ujhelyer1 ,paulitsch1 and ,erdd1 and the white ,miszla1 ,balaton1 ,fred1 ,hont1 ,pesth1 and ,weissenburger4 ,samlauer is one of the best white wines made at a place called ,samlau1 as ,erlauer another good wine at ,erlau4 ,the most commonly known ,hungarian wines of the present are ,oedenburger1 ,samlauer1 ,neszmely1 and ,carlowitz4 ,,italy4 ,that ,italy produces good wines is1 says ,cyrus ,redding1 undeniable4 ,she also produces wines that are very bad4 ,the best ,italian wines are believed to be of ,tuscany4 ,as ,hafiz is the authority for ,shiraz1 so ,redi's ,bacco in ,toscana should be consulted for the wines of ,italy4 ,monte ,pulciano is of a purple hue1 sweet and slightly astringent4 ,it is to this wine that ,redi gives the palm1 calling it la manna di ,monte ,pulciano4 ,the wine of ,chianti1 near ,sienna1 is well known4 ,artiminio1 ,poncino1 ,antella1 and ,carmignano1 though of less reputation1 are not greatly inferior4 ,the best ,verdea#cd comes from ,arcetri near ,florence4 ,trebbiano1 a gold-coloured syrup1 is produced1 according to ,drs4 ,thudichum and ,dupr1 from grapes1 8passulated on the vine by torsion of the stalk40 ,montelcino1 ,rimaneze1 and ,santo ,stefano are ,siennese wines4 ,of ,sardinia the chief wines are the so-called ,malvasias1 ,giro1 ,aleatico1 like the ,tinto of ,alicante1 and ,bosa1 ,ogliastra1 and ,sassari4 ,of ,piedmont the principal wines are ,barolo1 ,barbera1 ,nebbiolo1 ,braccheto4 ,asti1 ,chaumont1 ,alba1 and ,montferrat have had reputation thrust upon them4 ,grignolinos are made from a vine closely related to the ,kadarka of ,hungary1 and the ,carmenet of the ,gironde4 ,the wines of ,genoa are of small repute4 ,central ,italy furnishes ,montefiascone1#ce with a delicious aroma1 ,albano1 resembling ,lacryma ,christi1 and ,orvieto4 ,the principal wine of ,naples1 from the base of ,vesuvius1 is ,lacryma ,christi1 a rich1 red1 exquisite drink1 affirmed by some adventurous fancies to be the ,falernian of ,horace4 8,o ,christ60 said a ,dutchman who drank1 8why didst ,thou not weep in my country80 ,gallipoli1 ,tarento1 ,baia1 ,pausilippo1 yield good wines4 ,the islands in the ,bay of ,naples all produce wine2 that of ,caprea is of good ordinary quality1 both white and red4 ,calabria furnishes many good wines4 ,muscadenes and dry wines are made at ,reggio4 ,asprino1 a white foamy wine1 with a pleasant sharpness1 is a favourite of the ,campagna4 ,carigliano is a ,muscadine1 with a flavour of fennel4 ,dr4 ,charnock speaks highly of the wine of ,capri1 and of ,orvieto1 a delicate white wine of ,rome4 ,the disagreement of travellers about the merits of wines arises principally1 of course1 from a diversity of tastes1 but also in the matter of ,italian wines1 from the fact that different wines bear the same names in different countries4 ,there is1 for instance1 a vino santo and a vino greco in ,naples4 ,a ,veronese wine1 vino debolissimo e di niuna stima1 is also called vino santo1 and an excellently good wine at ,brescia4 ,it is the same with half a dozen of the most noted wines of ,italy4 ,modico1 a fine white wine from the place of that name near ,salerno1 was apparently a favourite of the noted ,school of ,salernum4 ,the best known wines out of ,italy are the ,barola1 ,barbera1 and the rest which may be found on the wine-list of every padrone of an ,italian restaurant2 the ,inferno of the ,valtellina2 the ,lambrusco of ,modena2 the ,chianti of ,tuscan--a wine grown on the estate of ,baron ,ricasoli1 not thought so much of in ,italy as in ,england2 and the ,lacryma ,christi of ,naples4 ,most ,italian wines are bottled in flasks1 in the old ,roman style1 with oil#cf on the top1 and wool over the oil4 ,,madeira4 ,wine is first mentioned as a product of ,funchal1 the capital of ,madeira1 in the fifteenth century4 ,in #affb1 when ,charles ,,ii4 married the ,infanta ,catherine of ,bragana1 ,english merchants began to settle in ,madeira4 ,the principal varieties of ,madeira are ,malvasia1 ,bual1 ,sercial1 ,tinta1 and ,verdelho 7the ,verdea of ,tuscany74 ,in ,england1 ,madeira is now within the reach of all4 ,at the beginning of this century1 it was known only to connoisseurs4 ,the 8fine rich old ,boal0 is fairly familiar1 and if we may trust the wine merchants1 the 8,very ,superior ,old10 variously described as full1 soft1 golden1 delicate1 and mellow1 is gradually winning its way into public favour1 since that same 8soft fulness10 added to a delicious and yet pungent flavour1 produces a drink 8altogether superior0 to the best ,sherry4 ,,persia4 ,the ancient1 most famous wines of this country were those of ,chorassan1 ,turan1 and ,mazanderan4 ,these places still produce wines2 but their characteristics and reputation have1 it is affirmed1 become blended in the wine of ,shiraz1 in the province of ,ferdistan1 on the ,persian ,gulf4 ,chardin1 the ,frenchman1 describes this wine as of excellent quality1 but of course not so fine as the ,french wines4 ,the ,german1 ,kmpfer1 puts ,shiraz on the same level with the best ,burgundy and ,champagne4 ,he who wishes to learn the nature of the wine of ,shiraz should consult the ,diwan of ,hafiz4 ,how far this poet speaks of wine literally understood1 and how far of spiritual delights1 is a matter for commentatorial investigation4 ,persian wine is frequently mixed with raki and saffron1 and the extract of hemp4 ,sherbet1 made of fruit juices and water1 is ,english rather than ,oriental4 ,illustration ,,portugal4 ,,portugal3 ,peso da ,regoa--,four ,methods of ,cultivation of ,vine--,white and ,black ,ports--,the ,quintas--,tarragona--,charneco4 ,,russia3 ,kahetia--,gumbrinsko4 ,,sicily3 ,marsala4 ,,spain3 ,malaga--,sherry--,amontillado4 ,,switzerland3 ,chiavenna--,st4 ,gall--,the ,canton of ,vaud4 ,,cider3 ,derivation--,ainsworth--,gerard--,bacon --,evelyn--,turberville--,macaulay--,phi llips4 ,,perry4 ,one hundred and fifty years ago1 in the small town of ,peso da ,regoa1 then called ,regua only1 near the confluence of the ,corgo with the ,douro1 lived a single fisherman1 in a hut which he had himself constructed4 ,when the ,oporto ,wine ,company was established1 their warehouses were erected here1 and an annual fair for the sale of wine was established4 ,peso da ,regoa--the ,peso comes from an adjoining village--is now a thriving town1 and may be considered the capital of the ,alto ,douro district 7,paiz ,vinhateiro do ,alto ,douro71 whence are sent to ,england and elsewhere those wines which are here known as ,port4 ,the wine district is bounded by ,villa ,real on the north1 ,lamego on the south1 ,s4 ,joo da ,pesqueira on the east1 and ,mezofrio on the west4 ,it is unwholesome1 and but thinly populated4 ,those who list may draw from this fact a divine prohibition of the bibbing of ,port4 ,the vine is cultivated in ,portugal in four ways4 7#a7 ,by being trained round oaks or poplars de enforcado1 as the ,romans ulmisque adjungere vites4 7#b7 ,by the terrace system1 the best as 7#a7 is the most picturesque4 7#c7 ,by bushes in rows1 with the intermediate ground ploughed4 7#d7 ,by the trellis or de ramada4 ,the first liquor drawn from the lagar1 or press1 the result of the weight of the grapes alone1 is called ,lacryma ,christi4 ,after that a gang of men jump into the lagar1 and dance to the sound of the fife or bagpipe4 ,the weather is warm1 the work is hard2 the result is better conceived than expressed4 ,of white ,ports the best are ,muscatel de ,jesus 7the testimony to religious influence in this and the ,lacryma ,christi is extremely touching71 considered the prince of all1 the ,dedo de ,dama1 the ,ferral ,branco1 ,malvazia 7our ,malmsey71#cg ,abelhal1 ,agudelho1 ,alvaraa1 ,donzellinho1 ,folgozo1 ,gonveio1 ,white ,mourisco1 ,rabo da ,ovelha1 and ,promisso4 ,of the black ,ports the finest is ,touriga1 and the sweetest ,bastardo4 ,other dark ,ports are ,souzo1 the darkest of all1 ,aragonez1 ,pegudo1 besides ,tintas1 whose names are legion4 ,other wines grown here1 or in the immediate vicinity1 are ,alvarilho1 a kind of ,claret1 ,alicante1 ,muscatel1 ,roxo1 and ,malvazia ,vermelha4 ,great quantities of wine are produced in the quintas outside the line of demarcation1 and some of these wines are equal to those made in the wine district of the ,alto ,douro itself4 ,red wines transformed into ,french ,clarets at ,bordeaux1 are exported in large quantities4 ,a wine from ,tarragona1 known as 8,spanish ,red10 or superb ,catalan1 is sent yearly to ,england1 and sold as very full1 rich1 fruity1 and tawny ,port4 ,port will not keep good in the cask for more than two years without the addition of alcohol4 ,the ,oporto merchants use a pure spirit distilled from the wine itself4 ,the old ,port which we prize so highly and pay for so dearly is seldom unaffected by brandy or other spirit4 ,illustration3 ,,introduction ,,of ,,the ,,gout4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,gout4 ,some of the best wines are produced by ,estremadura1 such as ,bucellas1 ,collares1 ,lavradio1 ,chamusca1 ,carcavellos1 ,barra a ,barra1 and many others of which not even the names are known in ,england4 ,the vines round ,torres ,vedras might1 it has been said1 produce the finest wines in the world1 if properly cultivated4 ,arinto and ,estremadura are comparatively new wines4 ,the white wines of ,tojal and the vintages of ,palmella and ,inglezinhos have only to be known to become popular4 ,the province of ,traz-os-,montes1 in spite of its climate of nove mezes de inverno1 e tres de inferno1 produces excellent wines in the ,piaz ,vinhateiro4 ,those in the vicinity of the river ,tua and the ,sabor are considered by connoisseurs to resemble the celebrated ,clos ,vougeot4 ,there is a remarkable red wine called ,cornifesto1 and the white wines of ,aras1 ,bragana1 ,moraes1 ,moncorvo1 and ,nosedo are excellent4 ,the cup of ,charneco 7#b ,hen4 ,,vi4 ii4 #c71 a wine mentioned by ,beaumont and ,fletcher and ,decker1 is said to have been made at ,charneco1 a village near ,lisbon 7,european ,magazine1 ,march1 #agid74 ,port-wine is accredited with producing gout1 and the two accompanying illustrations give the 8,introduction to the ,gout10 and the real fiend itself4 ,,russia4 ,kahetia is a wine produced in a district of that name1 east of ,tiflis4 ,it is of two descriptions1 red and white1 and is much esteemed throughout ,transcaucasia4 ,as it is kept in skins made tight with naphtha1 it has generally a slight taste of leather and petroleum4 ,gumbrinsko is a sweet wine grown in the ,gumbri district of the ,caucasus4 ,donsko ,champansko1 the champagne of the ,don1 is said by ,dr4 ,charnock to be a very good wine1 and better than many sorts drunk in ,britain4 ,russian wines generally1 as those of many other countries1 are largely diluted1 and1 like the majority of ,greek wines1 do not improve by keeping4 ,,sicily4 ,a thousand years before ,christ1 says ,mr4 ,simmonds1 districts of ,sicily were famous for wine4 ,the coins of ,naxos 7#ejj ,b4,c47 bear the head of ,bacchus on the obverse1 on the reverse ,pan1 or a bunch of grapes4 ,of ,sicilian wines1 the light amber or brown wine of ,marsala is best known4 ,there is ,ingham's ,l4,p41 and ,woodhouse's2 there is also the ,old ,brown4 ,the ,faro is perhaps the strongest wine of ,sicily4 ,the wine of ,terre ,forte is made near ,etna1 in some vineyards of ,benedictine monks4 ,marsala1 as we know it1 is generally adulterated1 or fortified1 to use a more technical term4 ,even the 8,virgin0 has not escaped this common lot of wines4 ,much ,marsala is indeed sold as ,marsala1 but much more is sold as ,sherry4 ,the wine of ,taormina has the classic taste of pitch4 ,augusta produces a wine with a strong flavour of violets4 ,this to some palates is the most agreeable wine drank in ,sicily or elsewhere4 ,the ,del ,bosco of ,catania1 and the ,borgetto have been both recommended by the subtle taste of ,dr4 ,charnock4 ,a dry wine called ,vin de ,succo is made about ten miles from ,palermo4 ,the wine of ,syracuse somewhat resembles ,chablis4 ,,spain4 ,as ,spain succeeds ,france geographically1 so it follows it in the excellence of its vinous productions4 ,throughout all ages this country has been distinguished for its wines4 ,but the ,spaniard's chief glory under heaven is in the preparation of white dry fortified wines such as ,sherries1 and sweet wines such as ,malagas4 ,in the province of ,andalusia is situated ,xeres de la ,frontera1 and the convent of ,paxarete1 which produces a rich sweet sparkling drink4 ,here1 too1 are the vines of the vino secco and the abocado1 and ,rota1#ch which produces ,andalusia's best red wines4 ,here are ,ranico1 ,moguro1 or ,moguer1 a cheap light wine1 ,negio1 and the capital ,seville4 ,catalonia yields a large quantity of red wine shipped to ,england mostly as a drink for the general4 ,the ,malaga of ,granada is well known4 ,sherry#ci wines are1 or ought to be1 the products of ,cadiz1 including ,xeres de la ,frontera1 ,san ,lucar de ,barrameda1--where ,tintilla1 an excellent ,muscadine red wine1 is manufactured1--,trebujena1 and ,puerto de ,santa ,maria4 ,the celebrated wine known as ,manzanilla#dj is made in ,san ,lucar de ,barrameda4 ,val de ,peas#da wines are commonly red4 ,after the perfection of age1 this celebrated product of ,la ,manche#db is1 in the opinion of ,redding1 equal to any red wine in the world4 ,much wine of ,catalonia is now imported into ,england as ,catalan ,port4 ,borja produces a luscious white wine4 ,the country about ,tarragona on the road to ,barcelona is almost wholly occupied with wine making4 ,beni-,carlos1 ,la ,torre1 ,segorbe1 and ,murviedro1 are all fair wines of ,valencia4 ,alicant produces an excellent red wine1 vino tinto1 strong and sweet2 when old1 this wine is called ,fondellol4 ,vinaroz1 ,santo ,domingo1 and ,perales1 offer red wines of moderate excellence4 ,the best wines of ,aragon are ,cariena and the ,hospital1 from the vine which the ,french call ,grenache4 ,in ,biscay1 at ,chacoli1 a vino brozno1 or austere wine1 is produced in large quantity4 ,the best is made at ,vittoria1 and called ,pedro ,ximenes4#dc ,fuenaral1 near ,madrid1 offers a good wine seldom exported4 ,the most famous wine-growing district of ,granada is that of ,malaga1 termed ,axarquia4 ,this produces ,malagas1 ,muscatels1 ,malvasies1 and ,tintos4 ,the red wines called ,tinto de ,rota and ,sacra are unfermented with only enough spirit for preservation1 and are commonly advertised in our wine circulars as 8suitable for sacramental purposes40 ,guindre is flavoured with cherries from which it derives its name4 ,into this wine1 as into some others1 the ,spaniards are wont to put roasted pears1 under the conceit that thereby it is much improved in taste and rendered more wholesome4 ,hence arose the proverb ,el vino de las peras dalo a quien bien quiras4 ,malaga ,xeres is often known in ,england as the pale1 gold1 dry ,sherry1#dd as the wines of ,alicant1 ,benicarlos1 and ,valencia are sold as a rich and fruity ,port4 ,the so-called ,amontillado ,sherry is very often the outcome of accident4 ,out of a hundred butts of ,sherry from the same vineyard1 some1 says a great authority1 will be ,amontillado1 without the manufacturers being able to account for it4 ,at ,cordova1 a dry wine called ,montilla is commonly drunk4 ,,switzerland4 ,swiss wines are commonly consumed only in ,switzerland4 ,the best is produced in the ,grisons1 called ,chiavenna1 aromatic and white from the red grape4 ,a white ,malvasia of good quality is made in the ,valais4 ,it is luscious1 as is ,chiavenna4 ,the ,valais also furnishes red wines1 made at ,la ,marque and ,coquempin in the district of ,martigny4 ,schaffhausen gives plenty of red wine4 ,the wine of blood#de is manufactured at ,basle4 ,these wines are also known as those of the ,hospital and ,st4 ,jaques4 ,the red wines of ,erlach1 in ,berne1 are of a good quality4 ,the red wine of ,neufchtel is equal to a third-class ,burgundy4 ,st4 ,gall produces tolerable wines4 ,in the ,valteline1 the red wines are both good and durable1 much resembling the aromatic wine of ,southern ,france4 ,these wines are remarkably luscious1 and will1 it is said1 keep for a century4 ,the largest amount of wine is produced by the ,canton of ,vaud4 ,the wines of ,cully and ,dsals1 near ,lausanne1 much resemble the dry wines of the ,rhine4 ,illustration ,illustration3 ,,apples ,,for ,,cider4 ,,cider4 ,the original meaning of the word cider#df appears to have been strong drink4 ,it was used to designate a liquor made of the juice of any fruit pressed1 and an example of the word in this use is to be found in ,wycliffe's ,bible1 in the speech of the angel to ,zacharias 7,luke i4 #ae71 in allusion to his promised progeny3 ,he schal not drynke wyn and syder4 ,the next meaning is that of a liquor made from the juice of apples expressed and fermented4 8,a flask of cider from his father's vats1 ,prime1 which ,i knew40 ,,tennyson3 ,audley ,court4 ,we have little information about cider either from the ,greeks or the ,latins4 ,it would seem that it was not known to them1 if we may trust ,ainsworth1 who translates cider by succus e pomis expressus1 and ,byzantius1 who gives 77 4 as the equivalent for cidre4#dg ,gerard1 in his ,historie of ,plants1 published in #aeig1 says that he saw in the pastures and hedgerows about the grounds of a 8worshipful gentleman10 dwelling two miles from ,hereford1 called ,m4 ,roger ,bodnome1 so many trees of all sorts that the servants drunk for the most part no other drink but that which is made from apples4 ,the quantity1 says ,gerard1 was such that by the report of the gentleman himself1 the parson 8hath for tithe many hogsheads of ,syder40 ,this reference to the servants and the parson drinking it1 but not to the 8gentleman10 seems to show that the liquor was not then held in much esteem4 ,bacon placed cider after wine1 and we have followed in our arrangement of the present volume his august example4 ,this great philosopher speaks of cider and perry as 8notable beverages on sea-voyages40 ,the cider of his day did not1 he says1 sour by crossing the line1 and was good against sea-sickness4 ,he also speaks of cider1 a 8wonderful pleasing and refreshing drink10 in his ,new ,atlantis4 ,john ,evelyn's ,french ,gardener gives much information on this subject1 and his ,pomona is1 says ,stopes1 the first monograph on the manufacture of cider in ,england4 ,cider is made in many parts of ,barbary1 and in ,canada4 ,in all the ,states1 apples are abundant1 particularly in ,new ,york and ,new ,england1 and cider is a common drink of the inhabitants4 ,and it is as excellent as it is common4 ,that of ,new ,jersey is generally considered the best4 ,it is curious that the least juicy apples afford the best liquor4 ,cider of a superior quality is abundant in ,cork1 ,waterford1 and other counties of ,ireland1 where it was introduced1 we are told1 in the reign of ,elizabeth4 ,it was first made at ,affane1 in the county of ,waterford4#dh ,worledge's ,vinetum ,britannicum1 #afgf1 and his ,most ,easy ,method for ,making the ,best ,cider1 #afhg1 have been considered at full length by ,mr4 ,stopes4 ,worledge's press is an improvement upon one shown in ,evelyn's ,pomona4 ,cider appears in ,russia under the name of ,kvas4 ,there is ,yblochni kvas1 made of apples2 ,grshevoi kvas1 of pears1 a perry2 and ,malinovoi kvas1 of raspberries4 ,george ,turberville1 secretary to the ,english ,embassy to ,moscow in the year #aefh1 mentions kvas in a description of the ,russians of his time as3-- 8,folk fit to be of ,bacchus' train1 so quaffing is their kind2 ,drink is their whole desire1 the pot is all their pride4 ,the soberest head doth once a day stand needful of a guide4 ,if he to banquet bid his friends1 he will not shrink ,on them at dinner to bestow a dozen kinds of drink1 ,such liquor as they have1 and as the country gives2 ,but chiefly two1 one called kwas1 whereby the ,moujike lives1 ,small ware and waterlike1 but somewhat tart in taste2 ,the rest is mead1 of honey made1 wherewith their lips they baste40 ,stopes is of opinion that the finest cider is made1 not in the west1 as has been commonly asserted1 but in the east of ,england4 ,this authority seems particularly to favour the ,ribston pippins of ,norfolk4 8,worcester10 says ,macaulay1 in his ,history of ,england1 ch4 iii41 8is the queen of the cider land20 but ,devon and ,somerset1 ,gloucester and ,norfolk1 might dispute the title4 ,to make good cider the apples should be quite ripe1 as the amount of sugar in ripe apples is #aaj2 in unripe apples1 #di2 in over-ripe apples1 #gie4 ,the fermentation should proceed slowly4 ,brande says that the strongest cider contains1 in #ajj volumes1 #ihg of alcohol of #ib per cent2 the weakest1 #eba4 ,by distillation1 cider produces a good spirit2 but it is seldom converted to that purpose in consequence of its acidity1 which1 however1 is greatly remedied by rectification4 ,much cider is distilled in ,normandy1 and sent to this country under the name of arrack1 or some other foreign spirit1 according to its flavour4 ,to the ,normans the invention of this liquor has been attributed4 ,they are also said to have received it from the ,moors4 ,whitaker 7,hist4 ,manchester1 i4 #cba7 says this drink was introduced into this country by the ,romans2 and ,simmonds 7p4 #be7 that it was first used in ,england about #abhd4 ,illustration3 ,,an ,,old ,,cider ,,mill4 ,cider has been immortalised by ,phillips in a classical poem1 in imitation of ,virgil's ,georgics1 which1 according to ,johnson1 8need not shun the presence of the original40 ,milton's nephew thought that cider-- 8far surmounts ,gallic or ,latin grapes40 ,,perry4 ,perry is prepared from pears1 as cider from apples4 ,it is capable of being used in the adulteration of champagne4#di ,the harsher1 redder1 and more tawny pears produce the best drink4 ,perry is less popular than cider1 but some consider it superior4#ej ,illustration ,,brandy4 ,the ,invention of ,brandy--,early ,alchemists--,aqua ,vit--,distillation--,the ,still-room--,ladies ,drinking--,nantes and ,charente--,johnson's ,idea of ,brandy--,the ,charente ,district--,manufacture of ,brandy--,the ,cognac ,firms4 ,who invented ,brandy8 is a question that cannot be authoritatively answered offhand2 but the good people of some parts of ,germany hold that it was the ,devil4 ,and their legend is1 at all events1 circumstantial4 ,every one who is at all acquainted with old legends is fully aware that the ,father of ,evil is extremely simple1 and has allowed himself1 many times1 to be outwitted by man4 ,once1 especially1 he was so guileless as to put trust in a ,steinbach man1 who cajoled him into entering an old beech tree1 and there he was imprisoned until the tree was cut down4 ,his first step1 on regaining his freedom1 was to revisit his own particular dominion1 which1 to his horror1 he found empty6 ,this1 naturally1 would not do1 and he set about re-peopling hell without delay4 ,he thought the quickest plan would be to start a distillery2 so he hurried off at once to ,nordhausen1 where his manufacture of ,brandy 7his own invention7 became so famous that people from all parts came to him to learn the new art1 and to become distillers4 ,from that time his ,satanic ,majesty has never had to complain of paucity of subjects4 ,it seems fairly established that the famous chemist ,geber1 who lived in the #gth or #hth century1 was acquainted with distillation1 and we know that it was practised by the ,arabian and ,saracenic alchemists1 but have no knowledge whether they made any practical use of the alcohol they produced4 ,they1 at all events1 gave us the word by which we now know the spirit1 or ethereal part1 of wine4 ,alcohol1 distilled from wine1 is first reliably mentioned by a celebrated ,french alchemist and physician1 ,arnaud de ,villeneuve1 who died in #acac1 who gave it the name of aqua vit1 or water of life1#ea and regarded it as a valuable adjunct in physic1 and as a boon to humanity4 ,raymond ,lully1 the famous alchemist1 who is said to have been his pupil1 declared it to be 8an emanation from the ,deity10 and on its introduction it was supposed to be the elixir of life1 capable of rejuvenating those who partook of it1 and1 as such1 was only purchasable at an extremely high price4 ,we may see1 by a book#eb written #bjj years after the death of ,arnaud de ,villeneuve1 the esteem in which ,aqua ,vit was held even after so great a lapse of time4 ,aqua ,vite is comonly called the mastresse of al medycynes1 for it easeth the dysseases comynge of colde4 ,it gyveth also yonge corage in a person1 and cawseth hym to have a good memorye and remembraunce4 ,it puryfyeth the fyve wittes of melancolye and of unclenes whan it is dronke by reason and measure4 ,that is to understande fyve or syx droppes in the mornynge lastyng with a sponefull of wyne1 usynge the same in the maner aforsayde the evyl humours can not hurte the body1 for it withdryveth them oute of the vaynes4 ,it conforteth the harte1 and causeth a body to be mery4 ,it heleth all olde and newe sores on the hede comynge of colde1 whan the hede is enoynted therwyth and a lytell of the same water holden in the mouthe1 and dronke of the same4 ,it causeth a good colour in a parson whan it is dronke and the hede enoynted therwyth the space of xx dayes2 it heleth ,alopicia1 or whan it is dronke lastyng with a lytell tryacle4 ,it causeth the here well to growe1 and kylleth the lyce and flees4 ,it cureth the ,reuma of the hede1 whan the temples and the fore hede therwith be rubbed4 ,it cureth ,litargiam1#ec and all yll humours of the hede4 ,it heleth the coloure in the face1 and all maner of pymples4 ,it heleth the fystule when it is put therein with the ,juce of ,celendyne4 ,cotton wet in the same and a lytell wronge out agayn and so put in the eares at nyght goynge to bedde1 and a lytell dronke thereof1 is good against all defnes4 ,it easeth the payn in the teethe1 when it is a longe tyme holden in the mouthe1 it causeth a swete brethe1 and theleth the rottyng tethe4 ,it heleth the canker in the mouthe1 in the teethe1 in the lyppes1 and in the tongue1 whan it is longe time holden in the mouthe4 ,it cawseth the hevy togue to become light and wel spekyng4 ,it heleth the shorte brethe whan it is droke with water wheras the figes be soden in1 and vanisheth al flemmes4 ,it causeth good dygestynge and appetyte for to eat1 and taketh away all bolkynge4#ed ,it dryveth the wyndes out of the body1 and is good agaynst the evyll stomake4 ,it easeth the fayntenes of the harte1 the payn of the mylte1 the yelowe ,jandis1 the dropsy1 the yll lymmes1 the goute1 in the handes and in the fete1 the payne in the brestes whan they be swollen1 and heleth al diseases in the bladder1 and breaketh the stone4 ,it withdryveth venym that hath been taken in meat or in drynke1 wh a lytell tryacle is put therto4 ,it heleth the flanckes#ee and all dyseases coming of colde4 ,it heleth the brennyng of the body1 and of al membres whan it is rubbed therewith by the fyre viii dayes contynnynge4 ,it is good to be dronke agaynst the sodeyn dede4 ,it heleth all scabbes of the body1 and all colde swellynges1 enoynted or washed therwith1 and also a lytell thereof dronke4 ,it heleth all shronke sinewes1 and causeth them to become softe and right4 ,it heleth the febres tertiana and quartana1 when it is dronke an houre before1 or the febres becometh on a body4 ,it heleth the venymous bytes1 and also of a madde dogge1 whan they be wasshed therwith4 ,it heleth all stynkyng woundes whan they be wasshed therwith40 ,from use in medicine1 ,aqua ,vit soon came into domestic use1 and here is given one of ,iherom ,bruynswyke's 8,styllatoryes10 which he says was the 8comon fornays0 which was 8well beknowen amonge the potters1 made of erthe leded or glased1 and it may be removed from the one place to the other40 ,illustration ,it was in a still of this sort that the old housewives of the sixteenth and succeeding centuries used to concoct their strong and cordial waters--a practice which has given1 and left to1 our own times1 the name of 8,still-room10 as the housekeeper's own particular domain4 ,they experimented on almost every herb that grew1 and some of their concoctions must have been exceedingly nasty4 ,yet some of their recipes read as if they were comforting1 and they were not deficient in variety4 ,heywood1 in his ,philocothonista1 or ,the ,drunkard1 ,opened1 ,dissected1 and ,anatomized1 #afce1 p4 #dh1 mentions some of them4 8,to add to these chiefe and multiplicitie of wines before named1 yet there be ,stills and ,limbecks going1 swetting out ,aqua ,vit and strong waters deriving their names from ,cynamon1 ,lemmons1 ,balme1 ,angelica1 ,aniseed1 ,stomach ,water1 ,hunni1 etc4 ,and to fill up the number1 we have plenty of ,vsque-ba'ha40 ,the old housewives' books of the latter end of the sixteenth century1 until much later1 are still in existence1 and from them we may learn many drinks of our forefathers1 how to make ,ipocras 7very good1 especially when taken in a 8,loving ,cup071 to clarify ,whey1 to make ,buttered ,beer1 ,sirrop of ,roses or ,violets1 ,rosa ,solis1 a ,caudle for an old ,man1 or to distil ,spirits of ,spices1 ,spirits of ,wine tasting of what ,vegetable you please1 ,balme ,water1 ,rosemary ,water1 ,sinamon ,water1 ,aqua ,rubea1 ,spirits of ,hony1 ,rose ,water1 ,vinegar1 very many scents1 and a distillation called ,aqua ,composita1 which entered into many receipts4 ,there are many formul for this1 but ,bruynswyke gives the following3-- 8,,aqua ,,vite ,,composita4 8,the same water is made some time of wyne with spyces onely1 sometyme with wyne and rotes of the herbes1 sometyme with the herbes1 some tyme with the rotes and herbes togyder1 for at all tymes thereto must be stronge wyne4 8,take a gallon of strong ,gascoigne wine1 and ,sage1 ,mints1 ,red ,roses1 ,time1 ,pellitorie1 ,rosemarie1 ,wild ,thime1 ,camomil1 ,lavender1 of eche an handfull4 ,these herbes shal be stamped all togyder in a ,morter1 and then putte it in a clene vessell and do herto a pynte of ,rose ,water1 and a quart of romney1#ef and then stoppe it close and let it stand so iii or iiii dayes4 ,whan ye have so done1 put all this togyder in a styllatory and dystyll water of the same2 than take your dystylled water1 and pore it upon the herbes agayne into the styllatory1 and strewe upon it these powders followynge4 ,fyrst cloves and cynamon1 of eche an halfe ounce1 ,oryous#eg an ounce1 and a few ,maces1 nutmeggs halfe an ounce1 a lytell saffran1 muscus1 spica nardi1 ambre1 and some put campher in it1 bycawse the materyals be so hote4 ,stere#eh all the same well togyder and dystylle it clene of1 tyll it come fat lyke oyle1 than set awaye your water1 and let it be wel kepte4 ,after that make a stronge fyre1 and dystyll oyle of it1 and receyve it in a fyole1#ei this oyle smelleth above all oyles1 and he that letteth one droppe fall on his hande1 it will perce through4 ,it is wonderfull good1 excellynge many other soveraygne oyles to dyvers dysseases40 ,although the ,still-room was serviceable for medicinal purposes1 yet1 as we have seen1 there were many comforting drinks made1 including ,vsquebath1 or ,irish aqua vit 7a recipe for which we will give in its proper place71 and doubtless this contributed much towards the tippling habit of some ladies in the #agth and #ahth centuries4 ,we hear somewhat of this in the reign of good ,queen ,anne 7who1 by the bye1 was irreverently termed 8,brandy-faced ,nan071 when they used to make1 and drink1 ,ratifia of ,apricocks1 ,fenouillette of ,rh1 ,millefleurs1 ,orangiat1 ,burgamot1 ,pesicot1 and ,citron ,water1 etc41 etc41 numerous allusions to which are made in the pages of 8,the ,spectator10 and other literature of the times4 ,edward ,ward1 who had no objection to call a spade1 a spade1 thus plainly speaks out4#fj 8,it would make a ,man smile to behold her ,figure in a front ,box1 where her twinkling ,eyes1 by her ,afternoon's ,drams of ,ratifee and cold ,tea1 sparkle more than her ,pendants4444 ,her closet is always as well stor'd with ,juleps1 ,restoratives1 and ,strong ,waters1 as an ,apothecary's ,shop1 or a ,distiller's ,laboratory2 and is1 herself1 so notable a ,housewife in the ,art of preparing them1 that she has a larger ,collection of ,chemical ,receipts than a ,dutch ,mountebank4444 ,as soon as she rises1 she must have a ,salutary ,dram to keep her ,stomach from the ,cholick2 a ,whet before she eats1 to procure ,appetite2 after eating1 a plentiful ,dose for ,concoction2 and to be sure a ,bottle of ,brandy under her ,bed side for fear of fainting in the ,night40 ,there is no necessity to multiply instances of the feminine liking for brandy1 for everyone finds numerous examples in his reading1 from ,juliet's nurse1#fa who1 after ,tybalt's death1 says1 8,give me some aqua vit10 to old ,lady ,clermont1 of whom ,grantley ,berkeley tells the following story#fb3-- 8,prominent among my earliest ,brighton reminiscences are those of old ,lady ,clermont1 who was a frequent guest at the ,pavilion4 ,her physician had recommended a moderate use of stimulants1 to supply that energy which was deficient in her system1 and brandy had been suggested in a prescribed quantity1 to be mixed with her tea4 ,i remember well having my curiosity excited by this1 to me1 novel form of taking medicine1 and holding on by the back of a chair to watch the modus operandi4 ,very much to my astonishment1 the patient held a liqueur bottle over a cup of tea1 and began to pour out its contents1 with a peculiar purblind look1 upon the back of a teaspoon4 ,presently1 she seemed suddenly to become aware of what she was about1 turned up the spoon the right way1 and carefully measured1 and added the quantity to which she had been restricted4 ,the ,tea1 so strongly #8laced1' she now drank with great apparent gusto40 ,we derive our name of ,brandy from the ,dutch brand-wijn1 or the ,german brannt-wein1 that is1 burnt or distilled wine2 and in the #agth and #ahth centuries it was generally spelt1 and spoken of as brandy wine4 ,but1 also1 in those centuries was it known by the name of 8,nantz10 from the town 7,nantes1 the capital of the ,loire ,inferieure7 whence it came4 ,but this name was changed early last century1 when the trade left ,nantes1 and got into the ,charente district1 of which ,cognac was the centre2 so what used to be 8right good ,nantz0 of the old smuggling days1 turned into the delicate1 many-starred 8,cognac0 of our times4 ,it was an eminently respectable spirit4 ,whiskey was practically unknown out of ,scotland and ,ireland4 ,gin was the drink of the common people1 and rum was considered only fit for sailors4 ,even ,dr4 ,johnson1 though so fond of his tea1 was also fond of brandy1 as ,boswell chronicles of him1 when in his #gjth year3 8,on ,wednesday1 ,april #g1 ,i dined with him at ,sir ,joshua ,reynolds's4 ,johnson harangued upon the qualities of different liquors2 and spoke with great contempt of claret1 as so weak1 that #8a man would be drowned by it1 before it made him drunk4' ,he was persuaded to drink one glass of it1 that he might judge1 not from recollection1 which might be dim1 but from immediate sensation4 ,he shook his head1 and said1 #8,poor stuff6 ,no1 sir1 claret is the liquor for boys2 port for men2 but he who aspires to be a hero' 7smiling7 #8must drink brandy4 ,in the first place the flavour of brandy is the most grateful to the palate1 and then brandy will do soonest for a man what drinking can do for him4 ,there are1 indeed1 few who are able to drink brandy4 ,that is a power rather to be wished for than attained4'0 ,and two years later on he gives another illustration of the doctor's liking for strong potations4 8,mr4 ,eliot mentioned a curious liquor peculiar to his country1 which the ,cornish fishermen drink4 ,they call it ,mahogany2 and it is made of two parts gin and one part treacle1 well beaten together4 ,i begged to have some of it made1 which was done with proper skill by ,mr4 ,eliot4 ,i thought it very good liquor1 and said it was a counterpart of what is called ,athol porridge#fc in the ,highlands of ,scotland1 which is a mixture of whiskey and honey4 ,johnson said #8,that must be a better liquor than the ,cornish1 for both its component parts are better4' ,he also observed1 #8,mahogany must be a modern name2 for it is not long since the wood called mahogany was known in this country4 ,i mentioned his scale of liquors3 ,claret for boys--port for men--brandy for heroes4 #8,then1' said ,mr4 ,burke1 #8let me have claret2 ,i love to be a boy2 to have the careless gaiety of boyish days1' ,johnson3 #8,i should drink claret too1 if it would give me that2 but it does not2 it neither makes boys men1 nor men boys4 ,you'll be drowned in it before it has any effect upon you4'0 ,but it was the spirit always drunk by gentlemen until well on in this century1 as we see by ,mr4 ,pickwick1 whose constant resource in all cases of difficulty1 was a glass of brandy4 ,pale brandy was not so much drank as brown1 which is now only taken1 when very old1 as a liqueur1 although a brown brandy of very dubious quality is to be met with in some country public houses4 ,brandy1 like every other spirit1 developes its ethers with age1 gets mellower1 and of exquisite flavour2 and its popularity would undoubtedly be revived if the drinker were only sure he could get such brandy as the many starred brands of ,hennessy and ,martell1 instead of that awful substitute so often given--,british brandy1 made of raw potato spirit4 ,the soil of the ,charente slope is particularly adapted to the growth of the vine1 although1 as in all vine-growing countries some districts1 and even small patches of land1 produce finer wine than others4 ,the grapes are white1 not much larger than good-sized currants1 and the vines seldom bear fruit until four or five years from their planting1 and are most vigorous at the age of from ten to thirty4 ,many bear well up to fifty and seventy1 and some are fruitful at one hundred years or more4 ,as a rule1 the large firms do not distil the brandy they sell1 but leave that operation to the small farmers round about1 and then blend their products2 as1 to produce the quantity they sell1 enormous distilling space would be necessary1 wine only producing one-eighth or one-tenth of alcohol to its bulk4 ,the farmer's distillery is very primitive2 merely a simple boiler with a head or receiver1 and a worm surrounded with cold water4 ,there are generally two of these stills at work1 and when once the farmer commences making his brandy1 he keeps on day and night1 bivouacking near the stills1 until he has converted all his wine into crude spirit1 as colourless as water1 which he carts off1 just as it is1 to the brandy factory for sale4 ,there it is tasted1 measured1 and put into new casks of oak1 hooped round with chestnut wood4 ,these casks are branded with the date1 together with the quality and place of growth of the wine from which the brandy was distilled1 and they remain some time in stock before their contents are blended in the proportions which the firm deem suitable4 ,this new spirit is housed on a floor over large vats1 which are filled from selected casks1 the spirit being filtered through flannel discs on its way4 ,this mixes the various growths pretty well1 but the spirit is run into other vats1 being forced through filters of a peculiar kind of paper1 almost like paste-board4 ,when it gets to the second series of vats1 it is kept well stirred1 to prevent the heavier spirit sinking to the bottom4 ,it is then drawn off into casks1 which are bunged up1 and stored for several years that the brandy may mature1 and that the fusel oil may develope into the ethyls1 which give such flavour and fragrance to the brandy4 ,perhaps the oldest house in the ,cognac district is ,hennessy's1 but it would be invidious to say that their brandy was superior either to ,martell's1 ,otard and ,dupuy's1 the ,socit ,vignicole1 ,courvoisier1 or many other firms4 ,that must be left to individual taste4 ,but from these firms we can rely on having pure unadulterated brandies1 the pure product of the vine1 without any admixture of grain or beet spirit4 ,at one time1 adulteration was rife among the farmers1 but in #aheg and #aheh several of them were prosecuted1 and they are now credited with having abjured their evil ways4 ,j4 ,a4 ,illustration ,illustration ,,gin4 ,massinger's ,duke of ,milan--,pope's ,epilogue to ,satires--,the ,dunciad--,william ,,iii4--,lord ,hervey--,sir ,r4 ,walpole--,the ,fall of ,madame ,geneva--,hogarth's ,gin ,lane--,schiedam ,adulteration--,gin ,sling--,captain ,dudley ,bradstreet--,tom and ,jerry ,hawthorn4 ,gin is an alcoholic drink distilled from malt or from unmalted barley or other grain1 and afterwards rectified and flavoured4 ,the word is ,french1 genivre1 juniper1 corrupted into ,geneva1 and subsequently into its present form4 ,it is to the berries of the juniper that the best ,hollands owes its flavour4 ,perhaps one of the earliest allusions to gin is in ,massinger's ,duke of ,milan 7#afbc71 ,act ,i41 scene i41 when ,graccho1 a creature of ,mariana1 says to the courtier ,julio1 of a chance drunkard1 8,bid him sleep2 ',tis a sign he has ta'en his liquor1 and if you meet ,an officer preaching of sobriety1 ,unless he read it in ,geneva print1 ,lay him by the heels40 ,in this extract the word is played upon1 ,geneva suggesting both the habit of spirit-drinking and ,calvinistic doctrine4 ,when ,pope wrote1 the corrupted word 8,gin0 had become common4 ,in the ,epilogue to the ,satires1 ,i4 #acj4 8,vice thus abused1 demands a nation's care2 ,this calls the ,church to deprecate our sin1 ,and hurls the thunder of our laws on gin40 ,pope has added a note to this passage1 to the effect that gin had almost destroyed the lowest rank of the people before it was restrained by ,parliament in #agcf4 ,another early allusion to ,geneva is to be found in ,carmina ,quadragesimalia1 ,oxford1 #agbc1 vol4 i41 p4 #g1 in a copy of verses contributed by ,salusbury ,cade1 elected from ,westminster to ,ch4 ,ch4 in #agad4 ,the thesis of which ,salusbury ,cade maintained the affirmative1 is whether life consists in heat1 or in the original ,an vita consistat in calore8 8,dum tremula hyberno ,dipsas superimminet igni ,et dextra cyathum sustinet1 ore tubum1 ,alternis vicibus fumos hauritque1 bibitque1 ,quam dat arundo sitim grata ,geneva levat4 ,languenti hic ingens stomacho est fultura1 nec alvus ,nunc ,hypochondriacis flatibus gra tumet4 ,liberior fluit in tepido nunc corpore sanguis1 ,hinc nova vis membris et novus inde calor4 ,si quando audieris vetulam hanc periisse3 ,genev ,dicas ampullam non renovasse suam40 ,which being ,englished1 is 8,dipsas1 who shivers by her wintry fire1 ,while her pipe's smoke ascends in spire on spire1 ,alternate puffs and drinks--,geneva lays ,that thirst the weed is wont in her to raise4 ,with this her belly propped1 its pain expels2 ,intestine wind no more her stomach swells2 ,a freer blood runs leaping through her frame1 ,new heat1 new strength recalls the ancient game4 ,and should you hear she's dead1 the cause you'll know ,was that ,geneva in her jug ran low40 ,in the ,dunciad1 which ,pope wrote in #agbf 7book iii41 l4 #adc71 we read1-- 8,a second see1 by meeker manners known1 ,and modest as the maid that sips alone2 ,from the strong fate of drams if thou get free1 ,another ,d',urfey1 ,ward6 shall sing in thee6 ,thee shall each ale-house1 thee each gill-house#fd mourn1 ,and answering gin-shops sourer sighs return40 ,an early allusion to ,geneva is in a poem by ,alexander ,blunt1 ,distiller1 #hvo1 #agbi1 price #f;d41 called 8,geneva10 addressed to the ,right ,honourable ,sir ,r ,w4 ,it commences1 8,thy virtues1 ,o ,geneva6 yet unsung ,by ancient or by modern bard1 the muse ,in verse sublime shall celebrate4 ,and thou ,o ,w statesman most profound6 vouchsafe ,to lend a gracious ear3 for fame reports ,that thou with zeal assiduous dost attempt ,superior to ,canary or ,champaigne ,geneva salutiferous to enhance2 ,to rescue it from hand of porter vile1 ,and basket woman1 and to the bouffet ,of lady delicate and courtier grand ,exalt it2 well from thee may it assume ,the glorious modern name of royal ,,bob60 ,though 8,brandy cognac1 ,jamaica ,rum1 and costly ,arrack0 are alluded to1 there is no mention of ,hollands in the poem1 which is a defence of ,geneva against ale4 ,in this poem a statement is contained that ,geneva was introduced by ,william ,,iii41 and that he himself drank it4 8,great ,nassau1 ,immortal name6 ,britain's deliverer ,from slavery1 from wooden shoes and chains1 ,dungeons and fire2 attendants on the sway ,of tyrants bigotted and zeal accurst1 ,of holy butchers1 prelates insolent1 ,despotic and bloodthirsty6 ,he who did ,expiring liberty revive 7who wrought ,salvation wondrous67 ,god-like hero6 ,he ,it was1 who to compleat our happiness ,with liberty1 restored ,geneva introduced4 ,o ,britons4 ,o my countrymen can you ,to glorious ,william now commence ingrates ,and spurn his ashes8 ,can you vilify ,the sovereign cordial he has pointed out1 ,which by your own misconduct only can ,prove detrimental8 ,martial ,william drank ,geneva1 yet no age could ever boast ,a braver prince than he4 ,within his breast ,glowed every royal virtue6 ,little sign1 ,o ,genius of malt liquor6 that ,geneva ,debilitates the limbs and health impairs ,and mind enervates4 ,men for learning famed ,and skill in medicine prescribed it then ,frequent in recipe1 nor did it want ,success to recommend its virtues vast ,to late posterity40 ,in #agcf ,lord ,hervey1 describing the state of ,england1 says3 ,the drunkenness of the common people was so universal by the retailing a liquor called ,gin1 with which they could get drunk for a groat1 that the whole town of ,london and many towns in the country swarmed with drunken people from morning till night1 and were more like a scene of a ,bacchanal than the residence of a civil society4 ,retailers exhibited placards in their windows1 intimating that people might get drunk for the sum of #a;d4 and that clean straw would be provided for customers in the most comfortable of cellars4 ,on ,feb4 #bj1 #agcf1 in the ninth year of ,george ,,ii41 a petition of the ,justices of the ,peace for ,middlesex against the excessive use of spirituous liquors was presented to the ,house of ,commons1 setting forth3 ,that the drinking of ,geneva and other distilled spirituous liquors had greatly increased1 especially among the people of inferior rank1 that the constant and excessive use thereof had destroyed thousands of his ,majesty's subjects1 debauching their morals1 etc41 that the 8pernicious liquor0 was then sold not only by the distillers and ,geneva shops1 but many other persons of inferior trades1 8by which means journeymen1 apprentices and servants were drawn in to taste1 and by degrees to like1 approve1 and immoderately to drink thereof10 and that the petitioners therefore prayed that the ,house would take the premises into their serious consideration1 etc4 ,the ,house having resolved itself into a committee on ,feb4 #bc1 ,sir ,joseph ,jekyll moved the following resolutions3 7#a7 ,that the low price of spirituous liquors is the principal inducement to the excessive and pernicious use thereof4 7#b7 ,that a discouragement should be given to their use by a duty4 7#c7 ,that the vending1 etc41 of such liquors be restrained to persons keeping public brandy-shops1 victualling houses1 coffee houses1 ale houses and inn-holders1 and to such apothecaries and surgeons as should make use of the same by way of medicine only2 and1 7#d7 ,that no person keeping a public brandy-shop1 etc41 should be permitted to vend1 etc41 such liquors1 but by licence with duty payable thereon4 ,these ,resolutions were agreed on without debate4 ,on ,march #h1 ,mr4 ,william ,pulteney affixed a duty of #bjs4 per gallon on gin1 on the grounds of ancient use and sanction1 and of its reducing many thousands of families at once to a state of despair4 ,sir ,robert ,walpole had no immediate concern in the laying of this tax on spirituous liquors1 but suffered therefrom much unmerited obloquy4 ,the bill was presented by ,jekyll from a spirit of philanthropy1 which led him to contemplate with horror the progress of vice that marked the popular attachment to this inflammatory poison4 ,the populace showed their disapprobation of this ,act in their usual fashion of riot and violence4 ,we are told in ,coxe's ,walpole that numerous desperados continued the clandestine sale of gin in defiance of every restriction4 ,the duty of #bjs4 per gallon was repealed #af ,geo4 ,,ii41 c4 #h4 ,on the #bhth of ,september1 #agcf1 it was deemed necessary to send a detachment of sixty soldiers from ,kensington to protect the house of ,sir ,joseph ,jekyll1 the ,master of the ,rolls1 in ,chancery ,lane1 from the violence threatened by the populace against this eminent lawyer4 ,two soldiers with their bayonets fixed were planted as sentinels at the little door next ,chancery ,lane1 and the great doors were shut up1 the rest of the soldiers kept garrison in the stables in the yard4 ,this agitation gave rise to many a ballad and broadside1 such as the 8,fall of ,bob10 or the 8,oracle of ,gin10 a tragedy2 and 8,desolation1 or the ,fall of ,gin10 a poem4 ,,the ,,lamentable ,,fall ,,of ,,madame ,,geneva4--#bi ,sept41 #agcf4fe ,the ,woman holds a song to y tune to y ,children in y ,wood4 8,good lack1 good lack1 and ,well-a-day1 ,that ,madame ,gin should fall3 ,superior ,powers she must obey4 ,this ,act will starve us all40 ,the ,man has the second part to y same tune4 8,th' ,afflicted she has caus'd to sing1 ,the ,cripple leap and dance2 ,all those who die for love of ,gin ,go to ,heaven in a ,trance40 ,illustration ,underneath are the following verses-- 8,the ,scene appears1 and ,madame's ,crew ,in deep ,despair1 ,exposed to view4 ,see ,tinkers1 ,cobblers1 and cold ,watchmen1 ,with ,bs and ,ws as drunk as ,dutchmen4 ,all mingling with the ,common ,throng1 ,resort to hear her ,passing ,song4 8,whilst ,mirth suppress'd by ,parliament1 ,in ,sober ,sadness all lament1 ,pursued by ,jekyl's indignation1 ,she's brought to utter desolation4 ,with ,oaths they storm their ,monarch's name1 ,and curse their ,hands that form'd the ,scheme4 8,all ,billingsgate their ,case ,bemoan1 ,and ,rag-fair ,change in ,mourning's hung2 ,queen ,gin1 for whom they'd sacrifice ,their ,shirts and ,smocks1 nay1 both their ,eyes4 ,rather than ,she want ,contribution1 ,they'd trudge the ,streets without their shoes on40 ,the following verses on the ,gin ,act1 in #agcf1 are supposed by ,john ,nichols to be the production of ,dr4 ,johnson4 8,pensilibus fusis cyatho comitata supremo1 ,terribili fremitu stridula mret anus4 ,o longum formosa vale mihi vita decusque1 ,fida comes mens fida comesque tori6 ,eheu quam longo tecum consumerer vo1 ,heu quam tristiti dulce lenimen eras4 ternum direpta mihi1 sed quid moror istis1 ,stat1 fixum est1 nequeunt jam revocare preces2 ,i1 quoniam sic fata vocant1 liceat mihi tantum1 ,vivere te viva te moriente mori40 ,a clever cento from the ,latin poets1 which may be thus represented in ,english3-- 8444 ,left with her last glass alone1 ,thus loud laments her lot1 the squeaking crone3 ,farewell1 my life and beauty1 thou art sped1 ,faithful companion of my board and bed6 ,my earthly term fain with thee would ,i live1 ,who to my sorrowing heart can'st solace give4 ,bereft of gin1 alas6 am ,i for aye6 ,the ,act is passed4 ',tis all in vain to pray4 ,go where the ,fates may call1 and know that ,i ,living1 with thee would live1 and dying1 die60 ,hogarth's ,gin ,lane was advertised in #agea1 with a note that1 as its subject was calculated to reform some reigning vices peculiar to the lower class of people1 in hopes to render them of more extensive use1 the author had published them in the cheapest manner possible4 8,the cheapest manner possible0 was one shilling which in those days was a fairly good price for a print4 ,the following lame and defamatory verse was composed for the occasion by the ,rev4 ,james ,townley3-- 8,,gin ,,lane4 ,gin1 cursed fiend1 with fury fraught1 ,makes human race a prey2 ,it enters by a deadly draught1 ,and steals our life away4 ,virtue and ,truth1 driven to despair1 ,its rage compels to fly2 ,but cherishes1 with hellish care1 ,theft1 murder1 perjury4 ,damned cup1 that on the vitals preys1 ,that liquid fire contains2 ,which madness to the heart conveys1 ,and rolls it through the veins40 ,hogarth tells us that in ,gin ,lane every circumstance of the horrid effects of gin drinking is brought to view in terrorem4 ,idleness1 poverty1 misery1 and distress1 which drives even to madness and death1 are the only objects that are to be seen2 and not a house in tolerable condition but the pawnbrokers and gin shop4 ,the same moral is taught by ,cruikshank1 but not before his conversion to teetotalism4 ,schiedam is the metropolis of gin1 and its numerous distilleries are omnivorous1 taking with equal relish cargoes of rye and buckwheat from ,russia1 and damaged rice or any cereal from other countries1 and sometimes also potato spirit from ,hamburg4 ,the distillery of ,de ,kuypers is probably that of the greatest note1 and that firm's black square bottles1 packed in cases filled with hemp husks1 are known all over the world4 ,in ,africa 8square face0 is king1 but he frequently holds some counterfeit liquor1 even sometimes the vilest of ,cape ,smoke4 ,schiedam is the ,mecca of the ,dutchman1 the birthplace of his beloved ,schnapps4 ,this drink is always acceptable1 and fifty good reasons exist for drinking it4 ,the chief varieties of the aromatised popular spirit called gin are now known as ,geneva1 ,hollands1 and ,schiedam4 ,it is current in some parts of ,africa as a species of coin4 ,since1 however1 every distiller varies his materials and their proportions1 the species of this beverage are practically unlimited4 ,generally1 however1 the distinction is clear between ,hollands or ,dutch and ,english gin4 ,the former is commonly purer than the highly flavoured and too frequently adulterated ,british product4 ,the matters employed in the adulteration are very many4 ,corianders1 crushed almond cake1 angelica root powdered1 liquorice1 cardamoms1 cassia1 cinnamon1 grains of paradise1 and cayenne pepper1 and many more substances take the place of the berries of the juniper tree4 ,as these substances frequently produce a cloudy appearance1 the liquid is subsequently refined by other adulterants1 such as alum1 sulphate of zinc1 and acetate of lead4 ,the variety of gin dear to ancient beldams1 which is known as ,cordial1 is more highly sweetened and aromatized than the ordinary quality4 ,the alcoholic strength of gin as commonly sold ranges from #bb to #dh degrees4 ,the amount of sugar varies between #b and #i per cent4 ,gin is a beneficial diuretic1 but the compounds sold under that name are too often detrimental in their effects4 ,a popular drink called gin-sling takes its name from ,john ,collins1 formerly a celebrated waiter in ,limmer's old house4 ,the old lines on this drink ran as follows3-- 8,my name is ,john ,collins1 head waiter at ,limmer's1 ,corner of ,conduit ,street1 ,hanover ,square4 ,my chief occupation is filling of brimmers ,for all the young gentlemen frequenters there40 ,the poetry is very far from bad1 and so was the liquor4 ,it was a composition of gin1 soda water1 lemon1 and sugar4 ,john was abbreviated to gin and ,collins to sling4 ,gin has had many popular names1 but why gin should be called ,old ,tom by the publicans and lower orders of ,london has sometimes puzzled those who are inquisitive enough to consider the subject etymologically4 ,the answer may1 perhaps1 be found in a curious book1 called 8,the ,life and ,uncommon ,adventures of ,captain ,dudley ,bradstreet1 ,dublin1 #agee40 ,captain ,dudley1 a government spy of the ,count ,fathom species1 after declaring that the selling of ,geneva in a less quantity than two gallons had been prohibited1 says3 8,most of the gaols were full1 on account of this ,act1 and it occurred to me to venture upon the trade4 ,i got an acquaintance to rent a house in ,blue ,anchor ,alley1 in ,st4 ,luke's parish1 who privately conveyed his bargain to me3 ,i then got it well secured1 and laid out in a bed and other furniture five pounds1 in provision and drink that would keep1 about two pounds1 and purchased in ,moorfields the sign of a cat and had it nailed to a street window4 ,i then caused a leaden pipe1 the small end out about an inch1 to be placed under the paw of the cat1 the end that was within had a funnel to it4 8,when my house was ready for business ,i inquired what distiller in ,london was most famous for good gin1 and was assured by several that it was ,mr4 ,ldale1 in ,holborn4#ff ,to him ,i went1 and laid out thirteen pounds4444 ,the cargo was sent to my house1 at the back of which there was a way to go in or out4 ,when the liquor was properly disposed1 ,i got a person to inform a few of the mob that gin would be sold by the cat at my window next day1 provided they put the money in his mouth1 from whence there was a hole which conveyed it to me40 ,this1 by the way1 is a rare anticipation of our automatic sweetstuff1 scent1 and other machines4 ,to continue3 8,at night ,i took possession of my den1 and got up early next morning to be ready for custom4 ,it was over three hours before anybody called1 which made me almost despair of the project2 at last ,i heard the chink of money and a comfortable voice say1 #8,puss1 give me two pennyworth of gin6' ,i instantly put my mouth to the tube and bid them receive it from the pipe under her paw0--the cat seems to have changed its sex in this short interval of time--8and then measured and poured it into the funnel1 from whence they soon received it4 ,before night ,i took six shillings1 the next day about thirty shillings1 and afterwards three or four pounds a day4 ,from all parts of ,london people used to resort to me in such numbers that my neighbours could scarcely get in and out of their houses4 ,after this manner ,i went on for a month1 in which time ,i cleared upwards of two-and-twenty pounds40 ,so far ,captain ,bradstreet1 8but10 says the ,editor of ,notes ,queries1 8the ghost of #8old ,tom ,hodges' will probably enter a protest against ,captain ,bradstreet's cat40 ,another popular name for gin was used when ,corinthian ,tom and ,jerry ,hawthorn visited ,bob ,logic in the ,fleet4 ,bob says1 8,let us spend the day comfortably1 and in the evening ,i will introduce you both to my friend the haberdasher4 ,he is a good whistler1#fg and his shop always abounds with some prime articles that you will like to look at44440 ,a glass or two of wine made them as gay as larks1 and a hint from ,jerry to ,logic about the whistler brought them into the shop of the latter in a twinkling4 ,hawthorne1 with great surprise1 said1 8,where are we8 ,this is no haberdasher's4 ,it's a 0 8,no nosing1 ,jerry10 replied ,logic1 with a grin2 8you're wrong1 the man is a dealer in tape40 ,illustration ,illustration ,,whiskey4 ,uisge-beatha--8,my ,stint0--,its ,manufacture--,good and ,bad--,early ,mentions of ,whiskey--,materials used in its ,manufacture--,st4 ,thorwald--,duncan ,forbes and ,ferrintosh--,duty on ,whiskey--,silent ,spirit--,artificial ,maturing4 ,no matter in what country1 wherever it was known1 alcohol has been hailed as the ,water of ,life1 even in the ,gaelic4 ,uisge-beatha1 or1 as we term it1 whiskey1 bears literally that interpretation4 ,this is 8the wine of the country10 both in ,ireland and ,scotland1 and the quantities drank1 without any apparently hurtful effect1 is astonishing to a southern ,englishman4 ,northwards1 on the border land1 it is a question whether more whiskey is not drunk1 pro rata1 than in ,scotland4 ,still1 even there1 every one is not gifted1 as was the ,irishman spoken of by ,john ,wilson ,croker4 ,he tells the story of a lawsuit1 in which a life insurance company disputed a claim1 on the ground that the death was caused by excessive drinking4 ,one witness for the plaintiff was called1 who deposed that1 for the last eighteen years of his life1 he had been in the nightly habit of imbibing twenty-four tumblers of whiskey punch4 ,the cross-examining counsel wished to know whether he would swear to that1 or whether he ever overstepped that limit4 ,the witness replied that he was upon his oath1 and would swear no farther2 8for ,i never kept count beyond the two dozen1 though there is no saying how many beyond ,i might drink to make myself comfortable2 but that's my stint40 ,good whiskey should be made solely from the finest barley malt1 and is so made by the largest and best distillers2 but the smaller ones1 and those who are in a hurry to get rich by any means1 use all kinds of refuse grain1 and produce a spirit which1 if drank new1 is neither more nor less than rank poison4 ,the fusel oil1 which is present in all distillations from grain1 requires time to resolve itself into those delicate ethers1 which1 while enhancing the flavour and bouquet of the spirit1 are harmless4 ,good whiskey1 properly matured1 mixed with a sufficient quantity of water1 and used in moderation1 is a good and a wholesome drink1 acting also in lieu of food4 ,when this life-giving liquor was discovered is uncertain4 ,edward ,campion1 in his ,history of ,ireland1 #afcc1 speaking of a famine which happened in #acaf1 says that it was caused by the soldiers eating flesh and drinking aqua vit in ,lent2 and1 in another place1 he states that a knight1 called ,savage1 who lived in #acej1 having prepared an army against the ,irish1 allowed to every soldier1 before he buckled with the enemy1 a mighty draught of aqua vit1 wine1 or old ale4 ,walter ,harris1 in his ,hibernica1 #ageg1 says that in the reign of ,henry ,,viii4 it was decreed that there be but one maker of aqua vit in every borough town1 upon pain of #fs4 #h;d42 and that no wheaten malt go to any ,irishman's country1 upon pain of forfeiture of the same in value1 except only bread1 ale1 or aqua vit4 ,in a little book1 ,delightes for ,ladies1 etc41 #afjb1 is the following recipe for ,usquebath1 or ,irish ,aqua ,vit3-- 8,to every gallon of good ,aqua ,composita1 put two ounces of chosen liquerice1 bruised and cut into small peeces1 but first clensed from all his filth1 and two ounces of ,annis seeds that are cleane and bruised4 ,let them macerate five or six daies in a wodden ,vessel1 stopping the same close1 and then draw off as much as will runne cleere1 dissolving in that cleare ,aqua ,vit five or six spoonfuls of the best ,malassoes you can get2 ,spanish cute1 if you can get it1 is thought better than ,malassoes2 then put this into another vessell2 and after three or foure daies 7the more the better71 when the liquor hath fined itself1 you may use the same2 some add ,dates and ,raisons of the ,sun to this receipt3 those groundes which remaine1 you may redistill1 and make more ,aqua ,composita of them1 and of that ,aqua ,composita you may make more ,usquebath40 ,the distillation of whiskey in ,ireland1 on a large scale1 is of comparatively modern date1 the poteen having been manufactured in illicit stills1 in inaccessible and unhandy places4 ,now1 ,roe's distillery turns out over two million gallons a year1 and ,jameson's more than a million and a half4 ,the whiskey made by these firms1 that of ,sir ,john ,power ,sons1 and some others1 is distilled from pure malt2 but there are many distilleries that send out a spirit made from molasses1 beet-root1 potatoes1 and other things1 which cannot possibly be called whiskey1 which has brought ,irish whiskey somewhat into disrepute1 to the great advantage of the ,scotch distillers4 ,again1 unmalted grain is used1 which gives a practically tasteless spirit1 which is almost entirely deficient in the grateful ethers1 and is only so much raw alcohol and water1 a very different article to that which occasioned the following verses3-- 8,oh1 ,whiskey ,punch1 ,i love you much1 for you're the very thing1 ,to level all distinctions 'twixt a beggar and a king4 ,you lift me up so aisy1 and so softly let me down1 ,that the devil a hair ,i care what ,i wear1 a caubeen or a crown4 8,while you're a-coorsin' through my veins ,i feel mighty pleasant1 ,that ,i cannot just exactly tell whether ,i'm a prince or peasant2 ,maybe ,i'm one1 maybe the other1 but that gives me small trouble1 ,by the ,powers6 ,i believe ,i'm both on 'em1 for ,i think ,i'm seein' double40 ,scotch whiskey is the same as ,irish1 and should be similarly made from pure malted barley4 ,no one knows when it was first made2 but1 until the time of the ,pretender1 it was hardly known in the ,lowlands1 being a drink strictly of the ,highlanders4 ,there is a tradition of a certain ,st4 ,thorwald1 whose name may be sought for in vain in the pages of ,alban ,butler1 who had a cell in the side of a hill looking upon the ,esk4 ,he is said to have possessed a wonderful elixir1 famous for curing all diseases1 and1 consequently1 he was resorted to by pilgrims both far and near4 ,could it be that he had a whiskey still8 ,we know not2 but to this day a spring on the site of his hermitage helps to supply the ,langholm distillery4 ,perhaps the earliest historical account of ,scotch whiskey is the grant1 in #afij1 to ,duncan ,forbes of ,culloden1 in consideration of his services to ,william ,,iii41 of the privilege of distilling whiskey1 duty free1 in the barony of ,ferrintosh4 ,naturally1 a number of distilleries were erected there1 and ,ferrintosh became the generic term for whiskey4 ,in #aghe this grant was annulled on payment of #bj1jjj to the representatives of ,duncan ,forbes1 a proceeding which ,robert ,burns thus wrote about1 in his 8,scotch ,drink03-- 8,thee1 ,ferrintosh6 ,o sadly lost6 ,scotland laments from coast to coast6 ,now colic-grips an' barkin' hoast ,may kill us a'2 ,for loyal ,forbes' chartered boast ,is ta'en awa'40 ,the ,highland risings made the ,lowlanders more familiar with this spirit2 but it was a long time before the drink became general1 and a far longer before it was generally introduced into ,england4 8,bonnie ,prince ,charlie0 got too fond of it1 and his affection for strong drinks was life-long4 ,george ,,iv41 on his visit to ,scotland1 thought the best way to popularise himself on his arrival was to call for1 and drink1 a glass of whiskey2 and even our good ,queen has tasted 8,athol-brose40 ,the manufacture of whiskey was encouraged for several reasons3 first1 that it gave employment2 secondly1 that it used up large quantities of grain1 to the benefit of the farmer2 and thirdly1 it was hoped that it would1 in many cases1 supersede the ,french brandy1 which was most extensively smuggled4 ,but ,government imposed so high a duty1 that illicit stills sprang up everywhere1 and contraband whiskey was universally drank1 the smugglers openly bringing their wares down south1 and in such force as to defy the ,excise1 and frequently the military4 ,a wise step was then taken1 and in #ahbc the excise duty was lowered from #fs4 #b;d4 to #bs4 #d;d4 per imperial gallon1 a proceeding which1 in a year1 doubled the output of exciseable spirits2 but1 by degrees1 fiscal exigencies have raised it to #ajs4 per proof gallon4 ,now1 the quantity of home-made spirits on which duty was paid for the year ending #cast ,march1 #ahij1 is as follows3-- ,england4 ,scotland4 ,ireland4 ,galls4 ,galls4 ,galls4 #ab1fcf1jfj #i1dfc1jab #g1eba1iih or in all1 #bi1fba1jgj gallons1 yielding a revenue of #ad1haj1ebb4 ,it would be invidious to particularize any of the large ,scotch distilleries1 which mostly owe their fame to the excellence of their malt and the extreme purity of their water1 together with the fact that peat is extensively used as fuel1 even to the drying of the malt2 but 8,glenlivet0 has a name as world-wide as 8,ferrintosh40 ,do we not read in the ,bon ,gaultier ,ballads that-- 8,fhairhson had a son ,who married ,noah's daughter1 ,and nearly spoiled ta flood1 ,by trinking up ta water2 ,which he would have done1 ,i at least pelieve it1 ,had ta mixture peen ,only half ,glenlivet08 ,it was such a famous place that1 according to the ,ordnance ,gazetteer of ,scotland1 there were as many as #bjj illicit stills there1 in brisk work1 at the beginning of the present century4 8,small still0 whiskey is undoubtedly the best1 for only good materials can be used1 as the distillation carries over the flavour of the malt4 ,hear what ,dr4 ,thudicum says#fh3-- 8,the product of the patent still derives its name from the fact that it is mere alcohol and water1 having no distinctive qualities1 telling no tales to nose or palate of the source from which it was obtained1 and hence1 in the almost poetic spirit of the trade1 it is commonly called #8silent spirit4' ,the owner of a patent still1 instead of being confined1 like a whiskey distiller1 to the use of the best materials1 is able to make his spirit from any1 even spoiled and waste1 materials1 and with little reference to any other quality than cheapness4 ,the worst of the spirit thus produced is fit only for methylation1 preparatory for being used for trade purposes1 exclusive of consumption as a beverage4 ,when intended for a beverage1 it must be rectified and flavoured4 ,it thus serves as a basis for the implanting of artificial flavours1 which may be those of sham whiskey1 sham brandy1 or sham rum4444 8,the presence of grain ethers is the condition of the genuineness of whiskey4 ,silent spirit1 on the other hand1 undergoes no change by keeping1 and must be flavoured to become drinkable4 ,for that purpose it is either made smoky1 to become like ,scotch1 or it is mixed with ,irish pot whiskey1 to become like ,irish whiskey40 ,there is yet another and a newer way of altering whiskey1 which was shown in the ,brewers' ,exhibition at ,islington1 ,october1 #ahij1 and described in an advertisement in a morning paper as 8,a ,transformation ,scene2 no ,pantomime40 ,this new process of maturing spirits is by subjecting them to the action of compressed air confined in a close chamber4 ,nothing but atmospheric air is used1 which is filtered through pure water before being compressed4 ,the air chamber shown was a cylindrical vessel1 which1 in practice1 would be some twelve feet high or more4 ,it is supplied with a finely perforated floor1 at a convenient distance below the top1 and it has1 besides1 one or two lower floors of metallic gauze4 ,the cylinder is charged with the liquor to be treated1 and the compressed air is then let into it4 ,the taps having been closed on the completion of this operation1 a rotary pump keeps the liquor in continuous circulation as it passes through the floors in the form of a fine shower4 ,as soon as it reaches the gauze floor it breaks up into spray1 and1 in this minute state of sub-division1 it is acted on by the condensed air4 ,this air1 rising through a pipe1 collects at the top of the cylinder1 and in that way it is prevented from interfering with the steady flow of the shower4 ,a slight circulation of the air is at the same time promoted4 ,on the process being completed1 the liquor is run into casks1 and the air which remains in the vessel is allowed to escape1 the quantity of alcohol in combination with it not being worth saving4 ,the object of this process is to bring about the oxidation of the essential oils contained in the whiskey or other spirit1 and to promote their conversion into ethers4 ,it is claimed that this transformation does take place1 and that the spirit is changed from a new spirit1 and has all the character1 mellowness1 and flavour of that matured by time4 ,this change is said to be effected in twenty-four hours1 and that the spirit has1 in that period1 put on a maturity of ten years4 ,j4 ,a4 ,illustration3 ,,wooden ,,cuagh ,,or ,,quaigh4 7,brit4 ,mus47 ,illustration ,,rum4 ,derivation of ,name--,whence ,procured--,its ,manufacture--,its ,price--,trade ,rum4 ,the etymon of the name of this spirit is somewhat dubious4 ,some have it that it was formerly spelt 7as it now is in ,french7 ,rhum1 and that it is derived from rheum1 or 1 a flowing1 on account of its manufacture from the juice of the sugar cane4 ,others say that1 as rum has the strongest odour of any distilled spirit1 it is a corruption of the word aroma4 ,rum is made from the refuse of sugar1 and can1 of course1 be produced wherever sugar is grown4 ,this is notably the case in the ,west ,indies1 and the best rum comes thence4 ,the finest1 and that commanding the highest price in the market1 is from ,jamaica2 ,martinique and ,guadaloupe perhaps come next2 and ,santa ,cruz has a very good name4 ,british ,guiana1 the ,brazils1 ,natal1 ,queensland1 and ,new ,south ,wales all produce it4 ,it is made from molasses and the skimmings of the boiling sugar4 ,molasses is the syrup remaining after the separation of all the saccharine matter which will crystallize1 and is a dense1 viscous liquid1 varying from light yellow to nearly black1 according to the source from which it is obtained2 but its distillation will not produce rum4 ,sugar or molasses1 if distilled1 will produce alcohol1 but it will have no character of rum4 ,this peculiar odour is imparted to it by the addition1 in distillation1 of 8skimmings10 which are the matters separated from the sugar in clarifying and evaporation2 that is to say1 the scum of the precipitators1 clarifiers and evaporators is mixed with the rinsing of the boiling pans1 and is thus called4 ,they contain all the necessaries of fermentation1 and when mixed with molasses and 8dunder10 which is the fermented wash left from distillation1 are distilled into rum4 ,the odour of rum is very volatile2 so much so1 that it should be casked immediately after distillation4 ,the raw spirit is extremely injurious2 but it improves so much by age that1 at a sale in ,carlisle in #ahfe1 rum1 known to be #adj years old1 sold at three guineas a bottle4 ,like all alcohol1 rum1 when distilled1 is white1 the colour being given to it1 as it used to be in brown brandy1 by caramel 7burnt sugar74 ,much of the rum sold in ,england is made from 8silent0 spirit1 flavoured with butyric ether2 and it is this stuff which is sold as 8trade rum0 for export to ,africa4 ,some years since an action was brought by an ,african merchant against the vendor of 8trade rum0 for damages caused by it to his trade4 ,all went merrily till the negroes drank the rum1 when it suddenly ceased1 owing to its colouring their excreta red1 probably owing to the colouring matter4 ,in the old days of punch drinking1 rum was the great ingredient in that beverage1 but its use has gradually died out1 except among sailors1 it still being served out in the navy1 on account of its supposed warming qualities4 ,rum and milk1 taken before breakfast1 is also a beverage used very extensively4 ,j4 ,a4 ,illustration ,illustration ,,liqueurs4 ,i4 ,derivation of ,term--,eichhoff--,gregory of ,tours--,liqueur ,wines--,herb ,wines--,scot's ,ivanhoe--,hydromel--,murrey--,delille-- ,montaigne--,monastical ,liqueurs--,arnold de ,villeneuve--,catherine de ,medicis--,elixir ,ratafia4 ,the word liqueur has been traced by ,eichhoff to a ,sanskrit root1 viz41 laks or lauc1 to see1 appear4 ,it is now commonly understood of a drink obtained by distillation1 a beverage of which alcohol is the base4 ,to the ancients liqueurs appear to have been unknown4 ,the art of distillation on which they depend was not apparently discovered till the middle ages4 ,fermented wines1 of which some description will be found in another part of this book1 occupied their place at dinner and dessert4 ,old ,falernian when mixed with honey probably bore some near resemblance to what is now understood by liqueur4 ,but this drink was found to have such disastrous effects by way of intoxication that it was forbidden to women to drink of it4 ,our ancestors1 perhaps in imitation of the ancients1 composed a sort of liqueur with the must of wine1 in which they had infused berries of the lentiscus1 or a portion of its tender wood4 ,the artificial wines made either with this lentiscus1 or with other aromatic herbs1 called by ,gregory of ,tours vina odoramentis immixta1 were the only approaches to the modern liqueurs1 even some time after the discovery of the process of distillation4 ,among these liqueur wines must be mentioned that species of cooked wine which was the result of a portion of must reduced to half or a third of its original bulk by boiling4 ,the capitularies of ,charlemagne speak of this drink as vinum coctum1 and the southern provinces called it ,sabe1 from the ,latin sapa1 which with the ,romans had the same signification4 ,both ,galen and ,hippocrates refer to a ,greek composition called ,sirum or ,hepsema1 which1 says ,pliny1 we call sapa4 ,the fashion in which this wine was cooked is shown in the ,pitture antiche d',ercolano1 t4 ,i41 tab4 #ce4 ,those artificial wines which consisted solely of infusions of aromatic or medicinal plants1 such as absinthe1 aloes1 anise1 rosemary1 hyssop1 and so on1 were called herb wines1 and were frequently employed as remedies and preventives4 ,with a herb wine1 the wine of a honied absinthe1 it was that ,fredegonda poisoned him who reproached her with the murder of the ,pretextate4 ,the most famous of these wines were those into which entered1 besides honey1 the spices and aromatic confections of ,asia1 to which were given the name of pigments4 ,the highly spiced and 8most odoriferous0 wine sweetened with honey is one of those drinks which ,cedric bids ,oswald1 in ,ivanhoe1#fi to place upon the board for the refreshment of the ,knight ,templar4 ,it is mentioned in company with the oldest wine1 the best mead1 the mightiest ale1 the richest morat1#gj and the most sparkling cider4 ,the poets of the thirteenth century speak of this decoction with transport4 ,they regarded it in the light of an exquisite delicacy4 ,as no gentleman's library is complete without the presence of some particular work of which a bookseller is anxious to dispose1 so no feast at which pigment was not present was held to be complete by the medieval gourmet4 ,indeed this drink seems to have been all too sweet1 and was1 in consequence of its inebriating property1 like the honied ,falernian1 partially prohibited4 ,the ,council of ,aix-la-,chapelle in #hag decreed that on festival days only might this voluptuous cup be introduced into conventual repasts4 ,hydromel and hippocras were allied to this category of fermented and almost alcoholic drinks1 but they were not liqueurs4 ,finally certain liqueurs were composed entirely of juices of fruits and held the rank and title of wines4 ,such were cherry1 gooseberry1 strawberry wine1 and others4 ,another liqueur wine often cited by the thirteenth-century poets is ,murrey1 a thin drink coloured or otherwise affected by mulberries4 ,the word liqueur appears to have had a considerable latitude of signification4 ,we talk now of coffee and liqueur1 but according to the ,french poet ,delille1 who lived at a time very near our own1 coffee itself was included under the latter category-- 8,cest toi1 divin caf1 dont l'aimable liqueur ,sans altrer la tte panouit le cur03 which presents us with a view of coffee akin to that held by ,cowper of tea1 when he talks in his ,task 7,book ,,iv47 of 8the cups ,that cheer but not inebriate40 ,liqueurs1 indeed1 properly so called were not known till long after the distillation of wine had been recognised1 probably about the fourteenth century4 ,many years elapsed before these preparations escaped from the domination of the alchemists4 ,those religious who employed distillation for the confection of balsams and panaceas seem to have been the first to discover them to the world4 ,montaigne1 in the strange account he has written of his travel in ,italy1 speaks of the ,jesuits of ,vicenza--the ,jesuates as he calls them--who had a liquor shop in their fair monastery1 in which were sold phials of scent for a crown4 ,the good fathers appear to have busied themselves in the intervals of their religious exercises with distilling waters of different herbs and flowers for the public use1 as well for medicine as for sensual delight4 ,speaking of ,verona1 ,montaigne says he saw also a religious of monks who call themselves ,jesuates of ,st4 ,jrosme4 ,they are dressed in white under a smoked robe with little white caps4 ,they are not priests1 neither do they say mass1 nor preach1#ga and they are for the most part ignorant4 ,but they make a boast to be excellent distillers of eau de naff#gb and other waters1 both in ,verona and elsewhere4 ,monastical liqueurs are worthy of a paragraph to themselves4 ,so long as monks have existed1 they seem to have manifested a taste for the concoction of these drinks4 ,we can scarcely pass the shop window of a liqueur-seller without having our attention attracted by what the ,french call a ,kyrielle or litany of flasks of diverse forms1 decorated with tickets bearing such titles as the following3--,liqueur des ,chartreux1 ,liqueur des ,benedictins1 ,liqueur des ,carmes1 ,liqueur des ,trappistes1 ,liqueur des ,pres de ,garaison1 ,liqueur du ,p4 ,kermann1 and so on4 ,a large volume might well be composed on these liqueurs alone4 ,about their supposed virtues1--aperient1 digestive1 antiapoplectic1 antispasmodic1 anticholeric1 tonic1 etc41 that book might be well supposed likely to stretch out as far as the list of ,banquo's issue to the diseased imagination of ,macbeth4 ,the search for the philosopher's stone and the powder of projection was by no means wholly fruitless4 ,it strengthened the hands of chemistry4 ,it was also the cradle of liqueurs4 ,in the early part of the middle ages the learned inhabitants of the convents devoted their leisure time1 of which they appear to have had no lack1 to the so-called magnum opus4 ,the magnum opus1 the quintessence1 the elixir of long life1 were three different denominations of one and the same thing4 ,monkish intellectual toil was chiefly connected at that time with the study of essences1 spirits1 alcohols1 and distillations4 ,the plants which they sought with the greatest eagerness were rosemary1 arnica1 elder1 camomile1 sweet trefoil1 rose1 borage1 balm mint1 snake weed1 iris1 etc4 ,in the thirteenth century1 ,arnold de ,villeneuve1 a celebrated physician1 possessed with this devil of a magnum opus1 formulated the question of the quintessence or elixir of long life in these terms1 which became afterwards a dogma for all his monastic successors4 8,this is the secret1 viz41 to find substances so homogeneous to our nature that they can increase it without inflaming it1 continue it without diminishing it 444 as our life continually loses somewhat1 until at last all is lost40 ,the outcome of the long and patient labours of the monkish alchemists was certain elixirs and liqueurs1 of which the secret composition was transmitted from generation to generation in convents and monasteries4 ,such liqueurs were in their origin simply a pharmaceutic product4 ,it is only within the last few years comparatively that they have been converted into delicacies after dinner4 ,our age bears the hall mark of positivism4 ,the monks labour no longer for the sole glory of ,god and comfort of the sick4 ,their object at the present day is to effect1 it is affirmed1 a ready and productive sale4 ,it may be so2 happily it is not our business to determine4 ,it is certain that a vast development has taken place in the manufacture of the majority of the monkish liqueurs4 ,the ,chartreux of ,l',isre now realize annual benefices of considerable value1 of which a portion is said to be contributed to the continually diminishing ,papal exchequer1 under the title of ,peter's pence4 ,of this medicinal liqueur the active and benevolent element is gathered from herbs scattered on the ,alpine mountains cold1 or on the slopes of the ,pyrenees1 or in the sombre forests of the north 7see the ,prospectus71 or in the shops of the apothecaries4 ,but they all assuredly depend upon cognac for their element of life4 ,benedictine1 with its four cabalistic letters1 ,a ,m ,d ,g1#gc is made by the monks of ,fcamp1 at the famous ,carthusian monastery of ,la ,grande ,chartreuse1 near ,grenoble4 ,the elixir of long life1 de ,sept-,fonds1 is made in a convent of the ,trappists of l',allier1 and ,trappistine is the work of the good fathers of the abbey of ,la ,grce-,dieu 7,doubs74 ,it is1 however1 affirmed that only ,chartreuse1 coloured yellow or green at will1 and ,trappistine1 are the works of religious hands1 while all other liqueurs are made by the laics4 ,the methods of fabrication employed in the convents are now well known4#gd ,benedictine is the only liqueur which has escaped analysis4 ,absinthe is not strictly a liqueur4 ,it substitutes bitter for sweet4 ,this strong spirituous liquor1 so prejudicial to ,french health and morality1 is1 however1 commonly called a liqueur4 ,its base is an alcoholate1 composed of anise1 coriander1 and fennel4 ,it is flavoured with wormwood1 a species of artemisia1 and other plants containing absinthin4 ,it is said to be commonly coloured with indigo and sulphate of copper4 ,it is prepared chiefly in ,switzerland1 but much of it is made at ,bordeaux4 ,arnold de ,villeneuve1 in his medical treatise1 written in ,latin1 ,on the preservation of youth and the retardation of age1 has a sermon upon ,golden water4 8,i have not10 he says1 8read the properties of this water in books of distinguished authority1 but it is to be presumed that1 if it exists1 it is so sublime a work that they have concealed the method of its preparation1 and have even refused to mention its name4 ,of gold1 however1 they have spoken1 and set it among cordial medicines4 ,they have praised it for the comforting of the heart and for the palliation of leprosy4 ,it is possible that since we every day find things diversified by alteration of substance1 acquiring the operations of those other things into which they have been transformed1 so out of wine may be made a water of life very different from wine both in colour and in substance1 in effect and in operation4 ,and the doubt here is1 not about the fact1 but how it is brought about4 ,that the bodies of all metals may be reduced into water by the ingenuity of mankind1 experience allows us not to question2 but the operation and nature of those things by which this end is obtained it is no easy matter to discover40 ,this golden water was originally nothing else than eau de vie in which had been macerated certain herbs and aromatic spices to give it taste and colour2 afterwards minute portions of metallic gold were added4 ,the ingredients mentioned by ,arnold de ,villeneuve are rosemary flowers1 from which1 he says1 the water obtains its golden colour1 cinnamon1 grains of paradise1 cloves1 cubebs1 liquorice1 and the like4 ,in the mind of the middle ages1 gold was held to be a remedy for every ill4 ,many people applied themselves to the task of dissolving this metal and rendering it potable4 ,it was put into drinks1 baths1 victuals1 pills1 and the pharmacopeia of the time abounds in elixirs of gold1 tinctures of gold1 drops of gold1 and so on4 ,to please the public eye1 those pieces of the precious metal were cast into the composition which we now know as ,eau de vie de ,dantzig4 ,catherine de ,medicis brought into ,france all the voluptuous discoveries and superfluities of ,italy1 and helped to augment considerably the number of new liqueurs and to popularize their usage4 ,henry ,,ii4 was especially fond of the anisette of ,marie ,brizard of ,bordeaux4 ,sully1 in #afjd1 examining the objects of luxury in ,france1 found ,populo and ,rossolio to have the chief share in the public estimation and expenditure4 ,of them ,populo is mentioned in the ,letters of ,gui-,patin4#ge ,it was composed of spirits of wine1 water1 sugar1 musk1 amber1 essence of anise1 and essence of cinnamon4 ,rossolis1 our ,rossolio1 or ,rossoli1 said to be derived1 in consequence of its extreme excellence1 from the dew of the sun1 ros solis1 was made of burnt brandy1 sugar1 and the juice of sweet fruits1 such as cherries or mulberries4 ,louis ,,xiv4 was much attached to this particular liqueur4 ,that prepared for him was said to differ a little from the ordinary compound4 ,a receipt is given of the king's drink4 ,equal quantities of eau de vie and ,spanish wine1 in which were infused anise1 coriander1 fennel1 citron1 angelica1 and sugar-candy dissolved in camomile water1 and boiled to a thick syrup1 were a distinctive feature in this royal liqueur4 ,owing to oblivion or ignorance of the anisette of ,henri ,,ii4 this monarchical recognition of rossolio has led to the supposition that liqueurs were invented to invigorate the senile decrepitude of ,louis ,,xiv41 but it has been shown that they existed long before his time4 ,george ,,iv4 is said to have been attached to liqueurs in much the same way as ,louis ,,xiv41 who may have supposed that they in some measure improved his health or arrested his decay4 ,the liqueur industry is chiefly continental1 and the liqueurs are very numerous4 ,holland is famous for its ,curaoa and ,russia for its ,kmmel1 and almost every large district of ,france has its own speciality of liqueur4 ,bordeaux#gf is remarkable for its ,anisette1 ,dijon for its ,cassis1 ,marseilles for its ,absinthe1 ,grenoble for its ,ratafias1 and ,paris and ,lyons are each noted for many different kinds4 ,the ,english have attained as yet no high rank as liqueur manufacturers4 ,the prosaic nature of the ,trade ,returns includes all liqueurs of foreign origin under the heading of 8,sweetened or mixed ,spirits40 ,it makes no distinction between ,eaux and ,crmes or between ,ratafias and ,elixirs4 ,we have been told that elixirs are yellow and aromatized1 and eaux or crmes white1 while ratafias are substantially infusions of fruit4 ,originally this may have been so4 ,it is not the case at present4 ,both ,elixir and ,ratafia are interesting from an etymological standpoint4 ,the latter word has excited considerable discussion4 ,menage1 writing it as it was commonly written in his time1 ratafiat1 says it is a term derived from the ,east ,indies4 ,leibnitz1 on the contrary1 holds it to be a corruption of rectifi applied to alcohol4 ,another etymology is rata fiat4 ,parties were supposed to enter into a contract1 and after drinking the liqueur to say1 8,let it be ratified40 ,elixir#gg is an ,arabic word derived from the ,greek1 by which the alchemists denoted their powder of projection or philosopher's stone4 ,illustration ,,liqueurs4 ,,ii4 ,liqueur ,maker's ,guide4 ,,german ,,liqueurs3 ,eau d',amour--,eau ,divine4 ,,dantzig ,,liqueurs3 ,eau ,miraculeuse--,eau ,aerienne4 ,,french ,,liqueurs3 ,vespetro--,scubac--,absinthe--,maraschi no1 etc4 ,du ,verger--,vermuth1 etc4 ,to a humble and unpretending volume1 little known by the world1 to the ,cordial and ,liqueur ,makers' ,guide1 and ,publicans' ,instructor1 we are indebted for a large part of the information in the present chapter4 ,this excellent and possibly unique volume of modern date contains some two hundred receipts for the manufacture of the most favourite drinks in their greatest perfection2 in addition to a variety of miscellaneous matter of much practical utility to the publicans' profession1 though of no immediate interest probably to the readers of the present book4 ,for instance1 we are taught therein the mysteries of ,spirit ,beading1 or1 in exoteric language1 the putting a head on weak spirits1 and the fining of sherry1 port1 gin1 ale1 and porter4 ,most of the receipts1 we are assured1 have never before appeared in print4 ,they are the result of an experience of some thirty years4 ,a warning is given in the preface about the common and extensive adulteration of liqueurs with essential oils1 turpentine1 and spirits of wine4 ,in the first chapter of the ,cordial and ,liqueur ,makers' ,guide1 we find receipts for those familiar beverages which are most common in our respectable public firms--public house is what ,bentham would call an emotional term--such as ,peppermint1 ,cloves1 ,rum ,shrub1 ,aniseed1 ,caraway1 ,noyeau1 ,raspberry1 ,gingerette1 ,orange ,bitters1 ,wormwood ,bitters1 ,lemonade1 ,capillaire1 ,cherry ,brandy1 ,cinnamon1 ,lovage1 and ,usquebaugh--of these the receipt for ,lovage may be taken as a sole representative4 ,this aromatic drink1 which is comparatively rare1 is perhaps not generally known to be prepared from a plant indigenous to ,liguria1 a country of ,cisalpine ,gaul--from which country its name is through sundry philological decadences derived4#gh ,after reading this1 the student of human nature and mercantile morality will be fully prepared to learn that the plant indigenous to ,liguria enters in no way into its composition4 ,mix1 says the receipt1 five drams of oil of nutmegs1 five drams of oil of cassia1 and three drams of oil of caraway in a quart of strong spirits of wine4 ,shake it well1 and put it into a ten gallon cask with two gallons more of spirits of wine4 ,dissolve twenty pounds of lump sugar in hot water1 add this to the spirit with a quarter of a pint of colouring1 and fill up the cask with water4 ,fine it down with two ounces of alum dissolved in boiling water1 and put into the goods#gi hot2 afterwards add one ounce of salts of tartar1 and stir the whole well together4 ,the receipts which follow of ,german1 ,dantzig1 and ,french liqueurs postulate a preliminary grinding of all dry substances1 such as cloves or cinnamon2 the cutting into the smallest pieces of leaves1 flowers1 peels2 and the reducing to a paste1 by means of a marble mortar1 of almonds and fruit kernels with a small quantity of spirits to prevent them oiling4#gi ,these ingredients should be allowed to soak in the spirit for a month with diurnal shakings in a warm place4 ,then the spirit must be poured off and the water added after the quantity in the receipt4 ,after standing a few days1 pour off1 press out all the liquid1 mix with the spirit1 add sugar and colouring matter1 and filter through a flannel bag4 ,in the matter of gold and silver leaf1 an attempt to break it when dry would reduce one half to dust1 and so spoil the appearance of the liqueur4 ,it must be spread on a plate which has a little thin syrup on it4 ,the leaf must also be covered with the syrup1 and then torn by means of two forks into small pieces about the size of a canary seed4 ,the leaf should not be added until the liqueur is in the bottle4 ,the reader will observe the common use of capillaire4#hj ,,german ,,liqueurs4 ,eau de ,sultane ,zoraide4 ,lemon peel1 #h ounces2 orange peel1 #h ounces2 figs1 #h ounces2 dates1 #d ounces2 jessamine flowers1 #d ounces2 cinnamon1 #c ounces2 spirits of wine1 #fj o4p41 #ai quarts2 orange-flower water1 #b quarts2 pure water1 #ab quarts2 capillaire1 #h quarts4 ,colour1#ha rose4 ,eau ,nuptiale4 ,parsley seed1 #f ounces2 carrot seed1 #e ounces2 aniseed1 orris root1 #b ounces each2 mace1 #a ounces2 spirit1 #fj o4p41 #ai quarts2 rose water1 #g pints2 water1 #aa quarts2 capillaire1 #i quarts4 ,colour1 yellow4 ,eau d' ,amour4 ,bitter almonds1 lemon peel1 #ab ounces each2 cinnamon1 #f ounces2 mace1 #a ounce2 cloves1 #a ounces2 lavender flowers1 #h ounces2 spirits of wine1 #fj o4p41 #ai quarts2 ,muscat wine1 #h quarts2 oil of amber1 #cf drops2 water #g quarts2 capillaire1 #g quarts4 ,colour1 rose4 ,eau de ,yalpa4 ,marjoram1 cinnamon1 #c ounces each2 fennel seed1 thyme1 sweet basil1 bitter almonds1 figs1 balm1 #b ounces each2 carrot seed1 sage1 #a ounce each2 cardamom1 cloves1 ounce each2 spirits of wine1 #fj o4p41 #ai quarts2 essence of vanilla1 #ej drops2 essence of amber1 #ej drams2 water1 #ad quarts2 capillaire #h quarts4 ,colour1 scarlet4 ,eau ,divine4 ,lemon peel1 #a pounds2 coriander1 #d ounces2 mace1 cardamom1 #a ounce each2 spirits of wine1 #fj o4p41 #ai quarts2 oil of bergamot1 #a drams2 oil of ,neroly1#hb #b drams2 water1 #ad quarts2 capillaire1 #h quarts4 ,eau de ,pucelle4 ,juniper berries1 #a pounds2 fennel seed1 #d ounces2 angelica seed1 cinnamon1 #c ounces each2 cloves1 #a ounce2 spirits of wine1 #fj o4p41 #ai quarts2 water1 #ac quarts2 capillaire1 #aj quarts4 ,colour1 yellow4 ,other ,german liqueurs1 according to our authority1 are ,eau de ,zelia1 de ,rebecca1 de ,fantaisie1 the ruby ,eau des ,epicuriens1 the ,elixir ,monfron1 the ,eau ,divine1 the ,eau d',orient de ,napoleon1 de ,didon1 du ,dauphin1 de ,sant1 ,royale1 ,amricaine1 de ,paix1 de ,j4 ,saint-,aure1 de ,mille-,fleurs1 d',argent1 de ,montpellier1 d',ardelle1 de ,turin1 de ,tubinge1 du ,sorcier-,comte1 de ,vertu1 de ,chypre1 de ,jacques1 ,romantique1 ,crme ,voizot1 ,aqua ,bianca1 and many others4 ,,dantzig ,,liqueurs4 ,eau ,miraculeuse4 ,orange peel1 lemon peel1 #a pound each2 cinnamon1 ginger1 #f ounces each2 rosemary leaves1 #b ounces2 galanga1#hc mace1 cloves1 #a ounce each2 orris root1 #a ounces2 spirits of wine1 #fj o4p41 #ai quarts2 capillaire1 #h quarts2 water1 #ad quarts4 ,colour1 red4 ,eau ,aerienne4#hd ,figs1 #ab ounces2 cumin1 #e ounces2 leaves of rosemary1 fennel seed1 #d ounces each2 cinnamon1 #e ounces2 sage1 sassafras1 #b ounces each2 lavender flowers1 camomile flowers1 orris root1 #d ounces each2 spirits of wine1 #fj o4p41 #ai quarts2 capillaire1 #h quarts2 water1 #ad quarts4 ,other ,dantzig liqueurs mentioned are the ,eau de vie de ,dantzig1 ,eau ,forcifre1 ,christophelet1 ,eau ,carminative1 de ,musettier1 de ,girofle1 ,persicot1 ,amer d',angleterre1 and ,eau des ,favorites1 the ruby gold sprinkled ,eau de ,lisette1 the yellow ,krambambuli1#he the ,eau de ,baal1 and the ,liqueur des vques4 ,,french ,,liqueurs4 ,vespetro4#hf ,angelica seed1 #c ounces2 coriander seed1 #b ounces2 fennel seed1 aniseed1 ounce each2 lemons sliced1 oranges sliced1 #f ounces each2 spirits of wine1 #fj o4p41 #ab quarts2 water1 #i pints2 capillaire1 #c pints4 ,eau de ,scubac4#hg ,lemon peel1 #f ounces2 coriander1 #d ounces2 aniseed1 juniper berries1 cinnamon1 #b ounces each2 angelica root1 #a ounces2 saffron1 #a ounce2 spirits of wine1 #fj o4p41 #aj quarts2 orange-flower water1 #b quarts2 capillaire1 #d quarts2 water1 #h quarts4 ,elixir de ,garus4#hh ,myrrh1 aloes1 #b drams each2 cloves1 nutmegs1 #c drams each2 saffron1 #a ounce2 cinnamon1 #e drams2 spirits of wine1 p41 #e quarts2 sugar1 #f pounds4 ,amiable#hi ,vainqueur4 ,spirits of wine1 p41 #be quarts2 essential oil of citron1 #a ounce2 of neroli1 of angelica1 ounce each2 tincture of vanilla1 #a dram2 sugar #ab pounds2 water1 #d quarts4 ,guignolet#ij d',angers4 ,spirits of wine1 p41 #ab quarts2 cherries with the stones1 raspberries1 gooseberries1 red currants1 #a pound each2 oil of cinnamon1 of cloves1 #aj drops each2 sugar1 #g pounds2 water1 #b quarts4 ,huile des ,jeunes ,maris4 ,aniseed1 fennel seed1 #b ounces each2 angelica seed1 cumin seed1 caraway seed1 #a ounce each2 coriander1 #c ounces2 spirits of wine1 p41 #d quarts2 distilled water1 #c quarts2 sugar1 #aj pounds4 ,colour1 yellow4 ,other ,french liqueurs worthy of notice are ,eau ,archiepiscopale1 des ,financiers1 de ,noyeau1 de ,phalsbourg1 de ,jasmin1 des chevaliers de ,saint ,louis1 des ,pacificateurs de la ,grce1 ,souvenir d'un ,brave1 ,gote ,nationale1 ,coquette ,flatteuse1 ,ratafias of different kinds1 such as ,absinthe1 ,angelique1 ,celery1 ,quatre ,graines1#ia ,cerises1 ,noyeau and ,carve1#ib ,amour sans ,fin1 ,gat ,franaise1 ,plaisir des ,dames1 ,citronelle1 ,elixir ,columbat1 ,eau des ,chevaliers de la ,legion d',honneur1 ,eau des ,amis1 ,crme de ,macaron1 and ,eau de ,pologne1 the crimson ,alkermes1 the emerald ,huile des ,venus1 the ,elixir des ,anges1 the pale straw-coloured ,eau de vie d',andaye1#ic the crimson ,nectar des ,dieux1 and ,missilimakinac4 ,the most important1 or rather the most popular in this country1 of the very numerous alcoholic preparations which are flavoured1 or perfumed1 or sweetened1 or more commonly treated in all these three ways to be agreeable to the taste are1 placing them as they suggest themselves3-- ,kmmel1 or ,kimmel1 as it is sometimes incorrectly written1 from the ,german name of the herb cumin1 is made with sweetened spirit1 generally brandy1 flavoured with coriander and caraway seeds4 ,it is chiefly produced at ,riga1 and is much esteemed in ,java and the ,eastern ,archipelago generally4 ,maraschino is distilled from bruised cherries4 ,the fruit and seed are crushed together4 ,it is commonly prepared in ,italy and ,dalmatia from a delicately flavoured variety called ,marazques or ,marascas1 a small1 black1 wild cherry1 so named1 it is said1 from its bitterness4 ,zara1 in ,dalmatia1 is the principal place of production of ,maraschino4 ,cassis#id 7or ,cacis7 is a sort of ratafia made with the fruit of the cassis1 the vulgar ,french name of a species of gooseberry with black berries4 ,noyau1 or ,crme de ,noyau1 derived from the ,french word for a kernel1 is commonly prepared from white brandy1 bitter almonds or amygdalin1 sugar candy1 mace1 and nutmeg4 ,its distinctive flavour comes from the amygdalin1 or the kernels of peaches1 plums1 cherries1 apricots1 and other fruit4 ,in ,dominica the bark of the noyau tree 7,cerasus occidentalis7 is used1 and in ,france the leaves of a small convolvulus-like tropical plant called ,ipoma dissectis4 ,it is coloured white and pink4 ,ratafias are called by du ,verger liqueurs de conversation1 and eau clairettes and hypoteques1 an old term of which ,menage expresses himself unable to find the derivation as applied to a liqueur4 ,the ,master ,distiller considers them preferable to spirituous liqueurs4 ,procope1 the ancient ,master of ,paris1 includes under this term liqueurs1 or syrups1 as we should say1 of cherries1 strawberries1 gooseberries1 apricots1 peaches1 and other fruits4 ,he it was who first proposed the pressure of the fruits1 without infusing them entire4 ,some years afterwards1 ,breard1 one of the chiefs of the fruitery of ,louis ,,xiv41 gave these liqueurs the name of ,hypoteques to distinguish them4 ,the products both of ,procope and ,breard were of the highest excellence4 8#8,i1' says du ,verger1 #8have always considered ,procope's ,ratafias as finer and more delicate1 those of ,breard softer and more flowing2 but1' he adds1 #8as tastes differ1 both their ,ratafias have their approvers and their critics4 ,it is difficult to equal them in cold countries1 either in taste or in smell4'0 ,they are called ,liqueurs of conversation1 because1 according to this authority1 in talking after meals1 you may drink of them three or four times as much as of other liqueurs without fear of any inconvenience4 ,nay1 they nourish and fortify the stomach1 and in addition to being pleasant to the palate1 are good friends of the liver4 ,the first ,ratafia was called ,eau de ,cerises1 or cherry water4 ,the kernels should be added to the juice of the fruit with cinnamon and mace in small quantities4 ,this renders the composition beneficent1 strengthens the brain1 and banishes the vapours4 ,the ,eau clairette de framboises is also composed of cherries1 though a few strawberries are added to give the dominant flavour4 ,it should1 therefore1 says the ,master ,distiller1 be rather called ,eau clairette framboise4 ,l'eau clairette de groseilles has a specific virtue against biliousness4 ,l'eau clairette de grenade is the most agreeable of ,ratafias1 but has an astringent property4 ,l'eau clairette de coings is still more estimable than the preceding1 and imparts a new activity to the limbs4 ,eau clairette de ,chamberri should be made of the ripest black grapes1 a small quantity of spirit of wine1 a little sugar1 and other ingredients4 ,in addition to giving an appetite1 it rejoices the heart4 ,the longer it is kept1 as in the case with all ,ratafias1 the better4 ,the white ,ratafias1 or ,hypoteques1 should be mixed with cinnamon1 mace1 cloves1 and coriander4 ,under these circumstances they render the blood balsamic4 ,the best fruits for white ,ratafias are oranges1 peaches1 and apricots4 ,curaoa derives its name from the group of small islands in the ,west ,indies1 situated near the north shore of ,venezuela1 in the ,caribbean ,sea4 ,the liqueur is made in these islands by the ,dutch4 ,it is also made at ,amsterdam from orange peel imported from the ,curaoas4 ,the bitter orange used is the ,citrus bigaradia4 ,it is commonly obtained by digesting orange peel in sweetened spirits1 and flavouring with cinnamon1 cloves1 or mace4 ,the spirits employed are usually reduced to nearly #ef under proof1 and each gallon contains about #c pounds of sugar4 ,curaoa varies in colour4 ,the darker is produced by powdered ,brazil wood1 mellowed by caramel4 ,parfait ,amour is a liqueur composed of several ingredients1 such as citron1 clove1 muscat1 and others4 ,kirsch1 ,kirschwasser1 or ,kirschenwasser1 or cherry water1 is the genuine drink of the ,black ,forest4 ,the head-quarters of this liqueur1 as ,griesbach and ,petersthal in the ,reuch valley1 are rich in cherry trees of the ,machaleb variety4 ,h4 ,w4 ,wolff1 in his ,rambles1 rises into an almost poetic description of its virtues4 8,it is10 he says1 referring to the ,black ,foresters1 8their general stimulant and comforter1 their consoler in grief1 their promoter of conviviality1 their safety valve in trouble or excitement40 ,after this1 little can be added without the danger1 or rather the certainty1 of bathos4 ,when genuine--for alas1 it shares the common fate of drinks1 adulteration--it is said to be ardent and slightly poisonous4 ,in other words1 it contains 8that excellent stomachic1 hydrocyanic acid40 ,of late the ,black ,foresters have rivalled the ,servians in a spirit distilled from wild plums4 ,stolberg thinks ,kirschenwasser in no way inferior to the spirit made from corn at ,dantzic1#ie and others hold it equal to the ,dalmatian ,maraschino4 ,the liqueur is also made in ,germany1 ,france1 and elsewhere4 ,pomeranzen1 or ,pomeranzen-,wasser1 somewhat resembling our orangeade1 is principally drunk in ,northern ,germany4 ,raspail was originally1 as many other liqueurs1 medicinal1 and was so called from the name of its inventor4 ,mariani has made an ,elixir la coca du ,prou4 ,this1 like ,raspail1 is an agreeable tonic4 ,vermuth#if is composed of white wine1 angelica1 absinthe1 and other aromatic herbs4 ,many sweet wines approach very nearly liqueurs4 ,of these are in ,austria some sweet wines of ,transylvania and ,dalmatia4 ,in ,spain1 the ,tinto d',alicante1 and the white ,muscats of ,malaga4 ,in ,france1 ,hermitage1 ,grenache1 ,colmar1 and the ,muscats of ,rivesaltes and of ,roquevaire4 ,in ,cyprus1 ,la ,commanderie4 ,in ,italy1 the ,muscats of ,vesuvius1 ,orvieto and ,montefiascone1 the holy wine of ,castiglione1 the white wines of ,albano1 and the aromatic wine of ,chiavenna4 ,in ,greece1 the ,malmseys of ,santorin and the ,ionian ,isles4 ,in ,russia1 the wines of ,koos and ,sudach in the ,crimea2 and in ,mexico1 those of ,passo del ,nocte1 ,paras1 ,san ,luiz de la ,paz1 and ,zelaya4 ,in the ,widdowes ,treasure1 ,london1 #aeie1 are receipts for ,sirrop of ,roses or ,violets1 and two receipts for ,rosa ,solis1 and in the ,good ,housewife's ,jewele1 ,london1 #aeif1 are receipts for distilling of ,rosemary water1 ,imperiall water1 ,sinamon water1 and the ,water of ,life4 ,illustration ,,american ,,drinks4 ,cobblers--,cocktails--,flips1 etc4--,punch--,varieties--,a ,bar ,tender--,anstey's ,pleader's ,guide--,a ,yard of ,flannel--,bottled ,velvet--,rumfustian1 etc4 ,the great authority1 probably the greatest authority1 on this interesting subject is a gentleman who1 with the true modesty of genius1 allows himself to be known only by the pseudonym of ,jerry ,thomas4 ,formerly a bar-tender at the ,metropolitan ,hotel1 ,new ,york1 and the ,planter's ,house1 ,st4 ,louis1 he is said to have travelled over ,europe and ,america in 8search of all that is recondite in this branch of the spirit art40 ,his very name1 says one of his admirers1 is synonymous in the lexicon of mixed drinks with all that is rare and original4 ,among the chief ,american drinks are1 being alphabetically arranged1 cobblers1 cocktails1 cups1 flips1 juleps1 mulls1 nectars1 neguses1 noggs1 punches--of which there are at least three score--sangarees1 shrubs1 slings1 smashes1 and toddies4#ig ,the cobbler is an ,american invention1 though now common in other countries4 ,it requires small skill in its composition1 but should be arranged to please the eye4 ,of this drink the straw is the leading characteristic4 ,the cocktail is a comparatively modern discovery4 ,in this drink ,bogart's ,bitters occupies invariably a prominent place4 ,the ,crusta is an improvement on the cocktail1 and is said to have been invented by ,santina1 a celebrated ,spanish caterer4 ,its differentia is a small quantity of lemon juice and a little lump of ice4 ,the paring of a lemon must also line the glass1 from which feature it probably derives its name4 ,flip has been immortalised by ,dibdin as the favourite beverage of sailors1 though it has been asserted that they seldom drink it2 a somewhat hazardous statement1 unless limited to the times in which there is none to be had4 ,the essential feature in a flip is repeated pouring between two vessels1 supposed to produce smoothness in the drink4 ,the ,slang ,dictionary holds flip to be synonymous with ,flannel1 the old term for gin and beer drunk hot with nutmeg1 sugar1 etc41 a play on the old name lamb's wool4 ,the anecdote of ,goldsmith drinking flannel in a night-house with ,george ,parker1 ,ned ,shuter1 and the demure1 grave-looking gentleman1 is well known4 ,illustration3 ,,mint ,,julep4 ,the julep is especially popular in the ,southern ,states1 and is said to have been introduced into ,england by ,captain ,marryatt4 ,that romance-writing seaman in his work on ,america1 says3 8,i must descant a little upon the mint julep1 as it is1 with the thermometer at #ajj1 one of the most delightful and insinuating potations that ever was invented1 and may be drunk with equal satisfaction when the thermometer is as low as #gj4 ,there are many varieties1 such as those composed of ,claret1 ,madeira1 etc41 but the ingredients of the real mint julep are as follows4 ,i learned how to make them1 and succeeded pretty well40 ,then follows the receipt3-- 8,put into a tumbler about a dozen sprigs of the tender shoots of mint1 upon them put a spoonful of white sugar1 and equal proportions of peach and common brandy so as to fill it up one-third1 or perhaps a little less4 ,then take rasped or pounded ice and fill up the tumbler4 ,epicures rub the lips of the tumbler with a piece of fresh pine apple1 and the tumbler itself is very often incrusted outside with stalactites of ice4 ,as the ice melts1 you drink40 8,i once10 says the marine author of this receipt1 of which the reader has ipsissima verba1 8,i once overheard two ladies talking in the next room to me1 and one of them said1 #8,well1 if ,i have a weakness for any one thing1 it is for a mint julep6'0 ,this weakness of the ,american lady was1 in the opinion of the ,metropolitan ,hotel barman in ,new ,york1 very amiable1 and proved1 not only her good taste1 but her good sense4 ,in mulls1 which may be made of any kind of wine1 the essential feature is the boiling4 ,sugar and spice1 of which the nursery song tells us little girls are manufactured1 are also invariably used in mulls4 ,we give a rhymed receipt for mulled wine1 not for the sake of the poetry1 which is indifferent1 but for that of the cookery1 which is not bad4 8,first1 my dear madam1 you must take ,nine eggs1 which carefully you'll break1 ,into a bowl you'll drop the white1 ,the yolks into another by it40 ,here the poet was evidently hard pressed for a rhyme4 8,let ,betsy beat the whites with switch1 ,till they appear quite frothed and rich2 ,another hand the yolks must beat ,with sugar1 which will make them sweet40 ,an ordinary effect of sugar4 ,poet probably hard pressed as before4 8,three or four spoonfuls maybe'll do1 ,though some perhaps would take but two4 ,into a skillet next you'll pour ,a bottle of good wine1 or more2 ,put half a pint of water1 too1 ,or it may prove too strong for you40 ,this is personal1 nay more1 it might to some good people be offensive1 as indicating deficiency of cerebral power or endurance4 8,and while the eggs by two are beating1 ,the wine and water may be heating2 ,but when it comes to boiling heat1 ,the yolks and whites together beat ,with half a pint of water more1 ,mixing them well1 then gently pour ,into the skillet with the wine1 ,and stir it briskly all the time40 ,poet again hard pressed4 8,then pour it off into a pitcher1 ,grate nutmeg in to make it richer1 ,then drink it hot1 for he's a fool ,who lets such precious liquor cool40 ,of nectar we have no information worth the reader's acceptance4 ,it appears to be applied indifferently to any dulcet drink4 ,negus may be made of any sweet wine1 but is commonly composed of ,port4 8,it is10 says ,jerry ,thomas1 8a most refreshing and elegant beverage1 particularly for those who do not take punch or grog after supper40 ,egg-nogg1 of which other noggs seem to be the lineal descendants1 though a beverage of ,american origin1 has 8a popularity that is cosmopolitan4 ,in the ,south of the ,united ,states it is almost indispensable at ,christmas time1 and at the ,north it is a favourite at all seasons40 ,in ,scotland the beverage is called 8auld man's milk40 ,the presence of the egg constitutes the differentia in this drink4 ,every well-ordered bar has a tin egg-nogg 8shaker10 which is a great aid in mixing4 ,the historian will be glad to learn that it was ,general ,harrison's favourite beverage1 and the consumptive and debilitated person that it is full of nourishment4 ,illustration3 8,a ,,crown ,,bowl ,,of ,,punch40 ,punch#ih is remarkable for its variety4 ,it is considered necessary by the adept to rub the sugar on the rind of the citron or lemon1 to extract properly what the experienced drinker calls 8the ambrosial essence40 ,the extraction of the ambrosial essence1 and the making the mixture sweet and strong1 using tea instead of water1 and thoroughly amalgamating all the compounds1 so that the taste of neither the bitter1 the sweet1 the spirit1 nor the element shall be perceptible one over the other1 is the grand secret of making punch4 ,and to this1 as to other learning1 there is no royal road4 ,it must1 alas6 be laboriously acquired by practice4 ,many are the mysteries of its concoction4 ,for instance1 it is essential in making hot punch that you put in the spirits before the water2 in cold punch the other way4 ,the precise portions of spirit and water1 or even of the acidity and sweetness1 can have no general rule4 ,to attempt offering one would only mislead4 ,a certain inspiration must animate the artist4 ,it has been asserted that no two persons make this drink alike4 ,this remark is admirable1 and might probably be applied not only to punch1 but to every drink that has yet been composed4 ,it has been said that of punches there are at least threescore4 ,here follow a few of the many varieties3 ,brandy1 ,sherry1 ,gin1 ,whiskey1 ,port1 ,sauterne1 ,claret1 ,missisippi1 ,vanilla1 ,pine ,apple1 ,orgeat1 ,curaoa1 ,roman1 ,glasgow1 ,milk1 and ,regent's1 brewed by ,george ,,iv42 ,st4 ,charles'1 ,louisiana1 ,sugar ,house1 ,la ,patria1 ,spread ,eagle1 ,imperial1 ,rochester1 and ,rocky ,mountain2 ,non-,such1 ,philadelphia1 ,fish-,house1 ,canadian1 ,tip-,top1 ,bimbo1 ,nuremburgh1 ,ruby1 ,royal1 ,century ,club1 ,duke of ,norfolk1 ,uncle ,toby1 and ,gothic4 ,people have immortalised themselves by the invention of punches to which a grateful country has attached their names4 ,of these famous ones are ,general ,ford1 for many years commanding engineer at ,dover2 ,dr4 ,shelton ,mackenzie1 of ,glasgow2 ,d',orsay2 and ,m4 ,grassot1 the eminent ,french comedian of the ,palais ,royal1 who communicated his receipt to ,mr4 ,howard ,paul1 the equally eminent entertainer1 when performing in ,paris4 ,last1 though not least1 the military have thus distinguished themselves by the ,national ,guard1 the #gth ,regiment ,punch1 the #fith ,regiment ,punch1 the #cbnd ,regiment or ,victoria ,punch1 and the ,light ,guard ,punch4 ,the sangaree1 originally a ,west ,indian drink1 is as unsatisfactory in its explanation as in its etymology4 ,it seems1 indeed1 to be little more than spirit and water1 with sugar and nutmeg to taste4 ,it very nearly approaches1 if it is not identical with1 toddy4#ii ,shrubs#ajj are unsatisfactory1 like sangarees4 ,they seem to have no distinctive or differentiating feature4 ,the most common kinds are ,rum1 ,brandy1 ,cherry1 and ,currant4 ,slings are very closely related to toddies4 ,their difference is1 indeed1 infinitesimal1 so far as we are able to learn4#aja ,of the smash1 even ,jerry ,thomas speaks slightingly4 ,he says1 8,this beverage is simply a julep on a small plan40 ,it1 however1 can boast of three species--gin1 brandy1 and whiskey1 and for all a small bar-glass must be used4 ,it is usual1 though not apparently essential1 to lay two small pieces of orange on the top1 and to ornament with the berries of the season4 ,toddy is the ,hindustani tri tdi1 or juice of the palmyra and cocoa-nut4 ,tar is the ,hindustani word for a palm4 ,it is the name given by ,europeans to the sweet liquors produced by puncturing the spathes or stems of certain palms4 ,in the ,west ,indies toddy is obtained from the trunk of the ,attalea cohune1 a native of the ,isthmus of ,panama4 ,in ,south-,eastern ,asia the palms from which it is collected are the gomuti1 cocoa-nut1 palmyra1 date1 and the kittul 7,caryota urens74 ,when newly drawn the liquor is clear1 and in taste resembles malt4 ,in a very short time it becomes turbid1 whitish1 and sub-acid1 quickly running into the various stages of fermentation1 and acquiring an intoxicating quality4 ,in our use of the word1 toddy seems to mean nothing more than spirit and water sweetened1 with the occasional addition of lemon peel4 ,whiskey toddy is the common and favourite species1 though there are also apple1 gin1 and brandy toddies4 ,toddy differs from grog in being always made with boiling water1 but this distinction is not universally maintained1 nor1 indeed1 used by the best authors4 ,whiskey is probably the 8vulgar0 kind alluded to by ,anstey in his ,pleader's ,guide1 ,lect4 #g4 8,first count's for that with divers jugs1 ,to wit1 twelve pots1 twelve cups1 twelve mugs1 ,of certain vulgar drink called toddy1 ,said ,gull did sluice said ,gudgeon's body40 ,the names of ,american drinks form an amusing study4 ,passing over the well known sleepers1 sifters1 flosters1 knickerbockers1 ching-chings1 ,alabama fog-cutters and thunderbolt cocktails1 the lightning smashes and eye-openers of ,connecticut1 the corpse revivers1 the ,mother ,shiptons and the ,maiden's ,prayers1 we propose to give a list of some of the most remarkable titles1 with receipts added1 to satisfy the appetite of any who care to compound them4 ,a ,yard of ,flannel4 ,a yard of flannel1 otherwise called egg flip4--,boil a quart of ale in a tinned saucepan4 ,beat up yolks of four with the whites of two eggs4 ,add four tablespoonfuls of brown sugar and a soupon of nutmeg4 ,pour on this by degrees the hot ale1 taking care to prevent mixture from curdling4 ,pour back and forward repeatedly1 raising the hand as high as possible4 ,this produces the frothing and smoothness essential to the goodness of the drink4 ,it is called a yard of flannel from its fleecy appearance4 ,white ,tiger's ,milk 7 la ,thomas ,dunn ,english1 ,esq474 ,half a gill apple jack1 gill peach brandy1 teaspoonful aromatic tincture1#ajb white of an egg well beaten4 ,sweeten with white sugar to taste4 ,pour the mixture into #a quart of milk1 stir well1 and sprinkle with nutmeg4 ,this receipt will make a quart of the compound4 ,bottled ,velvet 7 la ,sir ,john ,bayley74 ,a bottle of ,moselle1 a pint of sherry1 small quantity of lemon peel1 #b tablespoonfuls of sugar4 ,well mix1 add a sprig of verbena1 strain1 and ice4 ,stone ,fence4 ,one wine glass of whiskey 7,bourbon71 #b small lumps of ice4 ,use large bar-glass1 and fill up with sweet cider4 ,sleeper4 ,to a gill of old rum add #a ounce of sugar1 #b yolks of eggs1 and the juice of half a lemon4 ,boil a pint of water with #f cloves1 #f coriander seeds1 and a bit of cinnamon4 ,whisk all together1 and strain into a tumbler4 ,rumfustian4 ,whisk yolks of a dozen eggs1 and put into a quart of beer and a pint of gin4 ,put a bottle of sherry into a saucepan1 with a stick of cinnamon1 a grated nutmeg1 a dozen lumps of sugar1 and the thin rind of a lemon4 ,when the wine boils1 pour it on gin and beer1 and drink hot4 ,bimbo ,punch4 ,steep in #a quart cognac brandy #f lemons1 cut in thin slices1 for six hours4 ,then remove lemon without squeezing4 ,dissolve #a pound loaf sugar in #a quart boiling water1 and add this hot solution to the cognac4 ,let it cool4 ,bishop4 ,stick an orange full of cloves1 and roast it4 ,when brown1 cut it in quarters1 and pour over it #a quart of hot port4 ,add sugar to taste1 and let mixture simmer for half an hour4 ,archbishop4 ,the same as ,bishop1 with substitution of best claret for port4 ,cardinal4 ,the same as ,archbishop1 with substitution of champagne for claret4 ,pope4 ,the same as ,cardinal1 with substitution of ,burgundy for champagne4 ,locomotive4 ,put #b yolks of eggs into a goblet with #a oz4 of honey1 a little essence of cloves1 and a liqueur glass of ,curaoa2 add #a pint of high ,burgundy made hot1 whisk together1 and serve hot in glasses4 ,pousse l',amour4 ,fill a small wineglass half full of maraschino1 then put in yolk of #a egg2 in this pour vanilla cordial1 and dash the surface with cognac4 ,blue ,blazer 7use two large silver-plated mugs with handles74 ,one wine glass ,scotch whiskey1 #a ditto boiling water4 ,mix whiskey and water in one mug2 ignite1 and1 while blazing1 pour from one mug to the other4 ,sweeten to taste1 and serve in a bar tumbler1 with a piece of lemon peel4 ,blue ,blazer is really nothing more than ordinary whiskey and water4 ,black ,stripe4 ,into a small bar-glass pour #a wine glass of ,santa ,cruz rum and #a tablespoonful of molasses2 cool with shaved ice1 or fill up with boiling water1 according to season4 ,grate nutmeg on top4 ,this is ordinary rum and water4 ,the following appeared in ,moonshine1 and may fitly conclude our chapter on ,american drinks1 for which the verdant ,english youth has paid to the cunning dispenser so many nimble ninepences3-- 8,thou art thirsty1 ,amaryllis2 say to what dost thou incline8 ,wilt thou toy with amber bubbles at the ,fons ,burtonis brink8 ,shall ,i crown the crystal goblet with the flashing ,rhenish wine8 ,or it may be thou would'st wish for an ,american long drink8 ,shall ,i brew a ,flash of ,lightning or a ,bourbon ,whiskey-skin8 ,or a ,saratoga ,brace-up8 ,sweetest1 you have but to say4 ,nay1 perhaps a ,bottle ,cocktail would your kind approval win8 ,or a ,santa ,cruz ,rum ,daisy will be something in your way8 ,i can recommend a ,morning-,glory ,cocktail to your taste ,and a ,corker or a ,nerver there are few who will despise2 ,tom and ,jerry offers pleasures it were folly rank to waste2 ,in a ,nectar for the dog-days sweet ,elysian rapture lies4 ,be not silent1 ,amaryllis1 name your poison1 whatsoe'er ,you've a mind for1 be it ,thunder1 ,locomotive1 or ,egg ,nogg4 ,i have all ingredients handy1 and ,i reckon ,i'm all there ,when the question's on the tapis as to what shall be the grog40 ,illustration3 ,,an ,,american ,,bar-,,tender4 ,illustration ,,beers4 ,definition--,different ,modes of ,manufacture--,antiquity--,osiris1 the ,inventor--,adam's ,ale--,egyptian--,scandinavian--,adulter ations4 ,,africa3 ,pitto1 ,ballo1 ,bouza4 ,,america3 ,persimon1 ,chica1 ,vinho de ,batatas4 ,,bavaria3 ,schenk and ,lager4 ,,belgium3 ,lambic1 ,faro4 ,,borneo3 ,ava or ,cava4 ,,china3 ,samtchoo4 ,the dictionary definition1 or rather description1 of ,beer is 8an alcoholic liquor made from any farinaceous grain1 but generally from barley40 ,this barley clause is1 of course1 not true in all countries1 nor is beer always made from a farinaceous grain4 ,for the rest1 the description is all that could be desired4 ,after the barley is malted and grained1 its fermentable substance is extracted by hot water4 ,to this extract or infusion hops1 or some other plant of an agreeable bitterness1 are added1 and it is afterwards boiled for some time1 both to concentrate it and to obtain all the useful matters from the hops4 ,the liquor is subsequently allowed to ferment in vats4 ,the time allowed for fermentation depends upon the quality and kind of beer4 ,after it has become clear it is stored for drink4 ,this ordinary popular description of beer will be probably sufficient to satisfy the general reader4 ,but we must add to it a second explanation of beer1 which is applied to a fermented extract1 not from any farinaceous grain1 but from the roots and other parts of various plants1 as ginger1 spruce-sap1 beet1 molasses1 and many more4 ,the scientific inquirer may learn the mysteries of malting and brewing1 which are very nearly distinct trades1 in the many treatises on beer-making which have adorned the literature of this and other countries4 ,in these he may read as much as he wills of the steeping of the barley1 its extension1 its absorption of water1 and the time occupied in this process2 of the couching and sweating1 as it is called1 a result of the partial germination of the grain2 of the flooring1 or spreading out like hay over a field2 of the kiln-drying1 or the introduction of the half-germinated grain into a kiln with a perforated floor1 with the necessary and variable amount of heat beneath it4 ,and if all this is not enough1 he may continue to read at full length of cornings or cummings1 of pale and amber-coloured malt1 of grinding the malt1 of washing the malt thus ground1 of boiling the worts with hops1 of cooling the worts1 of fermenting the worts1 and1 finally1 of clearing and storing4 ,beer is probably a word of ,german1 as ale1 signifying the same thing1 is of ,scandinavian origin4 ,but the source of the ,german word is a moot question of comparative philology4 ,those interested in this matter may find abundant information in a note inserted by ,m4 ,a4 ,schleicher in the ,zeitschrift of ,kuhn4 ,we are led thereby to a ,gothic form1 pius1 which in its turn conducts us to the ,lithuanian pyvas4 ,pyvas or pivas--since etymology is a science dans laquelle les consonants font peu de chose1 et les voyelles rien de tout--may be easily attached to the secondary root piv found in the ,sanskrit pivmi4 ,in ,indo-,european tongues1 and in accordance with the dictum of ,voltaire1 p1 b1 v1 are interchangeable as labials4 ,and so we come to the conclusion that pivas1 or its descendant beer1 means nothing else but drink2 or1 in other words1 that this particular form of drink is the drink par excellence4 ,and so we might rest content1 were it not for the uneasy scruples of a certain ,m4 ,pictet1 who has introduced a ,slavic origin4 ,but of etymology this taste will suffice4 ,twenty centuries before the ,christian era1 ,osiris1 according to some authors1 invented beer1#ajc and according to others it has been at all times a drink of the ,hebrews4 ,we have1 indeed1 heard of ,adam's ale1 but that term has been generally applied to a species of drink which would hardly come under our present category4 ,it is perhaps more probable that the beverage of ,osiris and the early ,hebrews was a simple infusion of barley without more4 ,pliny1 however1 ,theophrastus1 and ,tacitus1 speak of beer as known from very early times to the people of the ,north1 who were prevented by their situation from the cultivation of wine4#ajd ,the ancient beer of ,egypt is compared by ,diodorus ,siculus to wine on account of its strength and flavour4 ,this ,egyptian beer is indeed spoken of by ,herodotus as barley wine1 a title which still survives in some of the windows of our public-houses4 ,at present beer is the habitual drink of the ,english1 ,german1 ,dutch1 and ,scandinavian races4 ,a drink1 better called barley water than beer1 appears to have been the favourite beverage of the ,danes and ,anglo-,saxons1 our ancestors in the remote past4 ,before ,christianity had enlightened and corrected their views about the delights of a future state1 these benighted folk supposed that the chief felicity enjoyed by the good--in those days synonymous with the brave--after their death and transplantation into ,odin's paradise1 would be to drink in large goblets large quantities of ale4 ,perpetual intoxication thus entered largely into their conception of celestial joy4 ,beer as we understand it--modified1 that is1 by the introduction of the hop--was probably little known in ,england before the beginning of the sixteenth century4 ,the varieties of beer at the present time are numerous4 ,some of them will be considered later on in detail4 ,there are1 however1 only three principal types of fabrication1--the ,belgian1 ,bavarian1 and ,english4 ,the beers of ,england1 as of ,france1 and for the most part of ,germany1 become sour by the contact of air4 ,this defect is absent from ,bavarian beers4 ,so favourite a drink has1 of course1 been largely adulterated4 ,taste1 colour1 and smell are frequently due to unscrupulous falsifications4 ,bitterness is produced by strychnine1 aloes1 nux vomica1 gentian1 quassia1 centaury1 pyrethrum1 absinthe1 and many other ingredients4 ,colour is obtained by liquorice1 chicory1 and caramel2 and flavour by other additions1 which perhaps it is better not to particularize4 ,water1 of course1 is added to beer1 as to most drinks1 to enlarge the quantity and therefore the price4 ,potatoes are frequently a substitute for grain4 ,potash is introduced to give the much-desired 8head10 chalk to diminish acidity1 and chloride of sodium1 or common salt1 for the sake of what is called a piquant flavour4 ,it were well if these little eccentricities of the beer vendors had here their confine2 but the sacred hunger for gold has added1 alas6 to these1 virulent and narcotic poisons1#aje such as belladonna and opium1 henbane and picric or carbazotic acid4 ,in the city of ,london this kind of adulteration was formerly1 it was fondly imagined1 to some extent prevented by some ancient guardians1 known as ale-conners1 who had the right of entering all public-houses and tasting their ales4 ,only the most important beers of different countries are given in the following list1 arranged alphabetically for convenience of reference3-- ,,africa4 ,captain ,clapperton 7,expedition to ,africa1 i41 #acc1 #ahg7 found at ,wow-wow1 the metropolis of ,borghoo1 a kind of ale bearing the name of pitto1 obtained from the same grain as that used for the same purpose in ,dahomey1 and by a process nearly similar to the brewing of beer in ,england from malt1 only that no hops were added1 a defect which prevented it keeping for any length of time4 ,the people of the countries from the ,gambia to the ,senegal use a kind of beer called ballo4 ,at a village called ,wezo there is a beer called ote1 a sort of ale made from millet1 of a very enlivening nature4 ,another sort of beer1 called gear1 is found at ,ragada4 ,at ,whidah an excellent beer is made from two sorts of maize4 ,the ,jews at ,taffilet use beer of their own brewing4 ,isaacs 7,travels in ,africa1 ii41 #cai7 says that the ,zoola nation1 between ,delagoa ,bay and the ,bay of ,natal1 has a description of beer1 with which the natives are wont to get drunk4 ,this beer is made from a seed called loopoco1 something in size and colour like rape4 ,it has powerful fermenting properties1 and forms a beverage of a light brown hue1 potent and stimulating4 ,in ,sofala a beer is made from rice and millet2 also in ,abyssinia is to be found a drink of many names--tallah1 or selleh1 or donqua1 or sona--commonly brewed from wheat1 millet or barley1 mixed with a bitter herb called geso4 ,according to ,bruce1 ,abyssinian beer of an inferior kind is made from tocusso4 ,this is really a variety of bouza1 which is also made from teff1 the poa abyssinica of botanists4 ,,america4 ,persimon beer1 from the fruit of the date plum 7,diospyros ,virginiana71 is drunk in ,north ,america4 ,in ,south ,america1 long before the ,spanish conquest1 the ,indians prepared and drank a beer obtained from ,indian corn1 called chica or maize beer4 ,the process followed in making chica is very similar to that of beer brewing in ,britain4 ,the maize is moistened with water1 allowed partially to germinate and dried in the sun4 ,the maize malt so prepared is bruised1 treated with warm water1 and allowed to ferment4 ,the liquor is yellow1 and has an acid taste something like cider4 ,it is in common demand on the west coast4 ,in the valleys of the ,sierra the maize malt is subjected to human mastication1 not invariably by the young and beautiful girls1 but by old ladies and gentlemen who still retain1 by the indulgence of nature1 the requisite dental arrangement4 ,the saliva mixed with the chewed morsel is supposed to produce a more excellent chica4 ,indeed1 the result is so choice that this kind is commonly called ,peruvian nectar4 ,chica can also be made from barley1 rice1 peas1 grapes1 pine-apples1 and manioc4 ,the ,brazilians have a beer called ,vinho de ,batatas1 from the ,batata#ajf root4 ,sora1 a ,peruvian beer1 was formerly forbidden by the ,incas because of its extremely intoxicating nature4 ,,austria4 ,the most famous beer is perhaps the ,pilsener1 or white beer1 from ,pilsen in ,bohemia1 the favourite drink in ,vienna4 ,gratzer is brewed from wheat malt4 ,,bavaria4 ,the peculiar flavour of the ,bavarian ale is perhaps a result of the very free use of pitch or resinous matters to protect the wood of the fermenting tun1 but it seems more probable that it is due to the commixture of pine tops4 ,schenk beer is draught beer1 in contradistinction to ,lager1 or store beer4 ,the one is drunk in summer1 the other in winter4 ,bock beer#ajg and ,salvator1 dark heavy kinds of stout1 are both well known4 ,kaiserslautern is the name of a famous brewage in ,rhenish ,bavaria4 ,,belgium4 ,white beers1 the result of a mixture of oats and wheat1 called ,walgbaert and ,happe1 were made in ,brussels in the fifteenth century4 ,roetbier and ,zwartbier were1 as their names tell us1 red and black beers4 ,cuyte was at one time a favourite and aristocratic drink4 ,it has since fallen from its high estate4 ,there are some forty kinds of beer1 at least1 now manufactured in ,brussels4 ,the white beer of ,louvain in ,south ,brabant is the most esteemed2 but an ,englishman has described it as having the flavour of pitch1 soapsuds and vinegar4 ,the winter brew is termed ,faro1 the summer ,lambic4 ,the ,faro is by some said to be prepared from the strong ,lambic and a small beer called ,mars4 ,all ,belgium beers1 according to the opinion of some experts1 have a certain stamp of vinosity4 ,in addition to the ,lambic and ,faro1 which are distinguished in this particular1 may be mentioned the ,uitzet of ,flanders1 the ,arge1 of ,antwerp1 and ,fortes-,saisons of the ,walloons4 ,the white sparkling beers of ,louvain are the best of summer beers1 they are succeeded by those of ,hougaerde and ,diest4 ,the brown beers of ,malines and the ,saison of ,liege possess good reports4 ,latterly the ,grisettes of ,gembloux1 the beer of ,dinant1 the blonde of ,buiche1 and the ale of ,oppuers have been creditably mentioned4 ,,borneo4 ,the aborigines#ajh of ,borneo1 if we are to believe ,commodore ,roggewein1#aji are the 8basest1 most cruel and perfidious people in the world40 ,they are 8honest1 industrious1 strongly affectionate and self-denying10 if we are to credit the account of the ,italian missionary1 ,antonio ,ventimiglia4 ,when such diversity of opinion is manifested about the people1 some discordance might naturally be supposed to exhibit itself in the matter of their potations4 ,but this is not thus4 ,the great drink of the ,beajus is allowed on all hands to be the ava or cava1 prepared from the piper methysticum1 or intoxicating pepper plant4 ,this is a shrub with thick roots1 long heart-shaped leaves1 and a clump or spike of berries4 ,the root is chewed only--it is satisfactory to learn--by young girls with good teeth and dainty mouths4#aaj ,water or cocoa-nut milk is poured on the masticated pulp1 fermentation ensues1 and the ,beajus drink and become drunken4 ,the mass of chewed matter is kneaded with considerable dexterity by practised professionals4 8,every tongue is mute10 says ,mariner--one of the crew of a vessel seized by the natives in the commencement of this century1--8while this operation is going on2 every eye is upon them1 watching every motion of their arms as they describe the various curvilinear turns essential to success40 ,ava is also drunk in ,otaheite1 in the ,feejee islands1 and those of the ,marquesas and of the ,south ,seas4 ,,china4 ,tar-asun1 extracted from barley or wheat1 is the beer of ,china4 ,it is sweet1 and commonly drunk warm1 before distillation4 ,the mixed liquor from which it is prepared is called tchoo1 or wine2 after that1 sam or san is prefixed1 to show its hot nature4 ,samtchoo--the word is spelt in many ways--may1 says ,barrow 7,travels1 p4 #cjd71 be considered the basis of the best arrack1 itself a mere rectification of the above spirit with the addition of molasses and the juice of the cocoa-nut tree4 ,bell's ,travels1 ii41 #i4 ,illustration ,illustration ,,england4 ,love of the ,english for ,beer--,a ,national ,drink--,private ,brewing--,a ,french ,view of ,english ,society--,sir ,john ,barleycorn--,the 8,black ,jack0 and 8,leather ,bottel0--8,toby ,philpot0--,burton-on-,trent--,bottled ,beer--,brewers--,the ,village ,ale-house--,various ,beers4 8,back and syde goo bare1 goo bare1 ,both hande and foote goo colde2 ,but1 ,bellie1 ,god send the good ale inowghe ,whether hyt be newe or old40 8,brynge us home good ale1 syr1 brynge us home good ale1 ,and for our der lady's love1 brynge us som good ale4 ,brynge us home no beff1 syr1 for that is full of bonys1 ,but brynge us home goode ale y-nough1 for that my love alone ys2 ,brynge us home no wetyn brede1 for y be ful of branne1 ,nothyr of no ry brede1 for y is of y same2 ,brynge us home no porke1 syr1 for y is verie fatt1 ,nothyr no barly brede1 for neythir love ,i that2 ,brynge us home no muton1 for that is tough and lene1 ,neyther no trypys1 for thei be seldyn clene2 ,brynge us home no veel1 syr1 that do ,i not desyr1 ,but brynge us home good ale y-nough to drynke by y fyer2 ,brynge us home no syder1 nor no palde#aaa wyne1 ,for1 and y do1 thow shalt have ,criste's curse and mine40 ,the foregoing verses epitomise the praise of good beer4 ,the first is from one of the earliest known drinking songs in the ,english language--the last is an old ,wassail song--the ,wassail bowl1 which was of hot spiced ale1 with roasted apples bobbing therein1--a kindly way of welcome on ,new ,year's ,eve1 of ,saxon derivation as its name 8,wes-hal10 be of health1 or your health1 testifies4 ,that the ,anglo-,saxon took kindly to his beer1 we have already seen2 and that that feeling exists at the present day is undoubted1 for what says the refrain of a comparatively modern drinking song8 8,i loves a drop of good beer--,i does-- ,i'se partickler fond of my beer--,i is-- ,and their eyes1 ,if ever they tries ,to rob a poor man of his beer40 ,its popularity has never waned--and it has reached to such a height that the brewing trade seems to be instituted for the propagation of ,peers of the realm--a fact which ,dr4 ,johnson even could not have foreseen1 although1 at the sale of ,thrale's brewery1 he did say that they had not met together to sell boilers and vats1 but 8the potentiality of growing rich beyond the dream of avarice40 ,it was the national drink--for tea and coffee were not introduced into ,england until the middle of the seventeenth century--and it is only of very modern times that the 8free breakfast table0 fad of statesmanship has made those beverages so popular1 by bringing them within the means of the very poorest4 ,beer was1 perforce1 drank morning1 noon and night by those1 and they were the vast majority1 who could not afford wine--and1 as a rule1 after the ,norman ,conquest1 when the ,anglo-,saxons copied the soberer customs of their conquerors1 the ,english were not drunkards as a nation2 in fact1 although almost all their jests hinge on drinking1 there is in most of them an underlying moral1 which in print are as telling as in this illustration1 which1 in deference to nasty ,mrs4 ,grundy1 has been slightly toned down4 ,here is very cleverly satirised for reprobation the phases of men under the influence of drink4 ,how it transforms them into beasts1 some like lions1 others like asses and calves1 sensual as hogs1 greedy as goats1 stupid as gulls4 ,illustration ,every man brewed his own beer up to the seventeenth century1 when we find ,pepys speaking of ,cobb's strong ales at ,margate2 and in the reign of ,queen ,elizabeth the public brewing had begun at ,burton1 for an inquiry was made by ,walsingham to ,sir ,ralph ,sadler1 the governor of ,tutbury ,castle1 as to 8,what place neere ,tutbury1 beere may be provided for her ,majesty's use80 and the answer was that it might be obtained at ,burton1 three miles off4 ,good ,queen ,bess would1 indeed1 have fared badly without her beer1 for her breakfast beverages were always beer and wine4 ,yet every one was fairly sober4 ,they were weaned on alcoholic liquors1 and1 consequently1 enjoyed them as foods1 as they undoubtedly are1 if properly used4 ,it is very well to 8see our sen as others see us10 but it is almost impossible to agree with ,estienne ,perlin1 who published his ,description des ,royaulmes d',angleterre et d',escosse1 at ,paris in #aeeh1 in which he says that the ,english 8sont fort grands yvrongnes40 ,his description is1 we feel1 as untrustworthy as his ,english4 8,car si un ,anglois vous veult traicter1 vous dira en son langage1 vis dring a quarta rim vim gasquim1 vim hespaignol1 vim malvoysi1 c'est a dire veulx tu venir boire une quarte de vin du gascoigne1 une autre d'espaigne1 une autre de malvoisie1 en beuvant en mengeant vous diront plus de cent fois drind iou1 c'est a dire je m'en vois boyre a toy1 vous leur responderes en leur langage iplaigiu1 qui est a dire1 je vous plege4 ,si vous les remarcies vous leurs dires en leurs langages1 god tanque artelay1 c'est a dire1 je vous remercie de bon cur4 ,eulx estans yvres1 vous jureront le sang et le mort que vous beures tout ce que vous tenes dedans vostre tace1 vous diront ainsi1 bigod sol drind iou agoud oin40 ,it is much to be feared that the worthy ,frenchman1 if his description is to be at all relied on1 mixed with rather a fast lot4 ,ale was looked upon as a kindly creature1 and our ancestors of the seventeenth century had several ballads in praise of the 8little ,barleycorn0 and the indictment1 as well as the 8,bloody ,murther10 of ,sir ,john ,barleycorn4 ,from this latter the peasant poet1 ,burns1 plagiarised right royally4 ,there was also a very curious ,chap book published in the early part of the eighteenth century1 entitled1 8,the whole ,,trial and ,,indictment of ,sir ,,john ,,barley-,,corn--,k4 ,a ,person of ,noble ,birth and ,extraction1 and well known by ,rich and ,poor throughout the ,kingdom of ,great ,britain3 ,being accused of several ,misdemeanours1 by him committed against ,his ,majesty's ,liege ,people2 by killing some1 wounding others1 and bringing ,thousands to ,beggary1 and ruins many a poor ,family4 ,here you have the ,substance of the ,evidence given in against him on his ,trial1 with the ,names of the ,judges1 ,jury1 and ,witnesses4 ,also the ,comical ,defence ,sir ,john makes for himself1 and the ,character given him by some of his ,neighbours1 namely1 ,hewson the ,cobbler1 an honest friend of ,sir ,john's1 who is entomb'd as a ,memorandum1 at the ,two ,brewers in ,east ,smithfield4 ,taken in ,short ,hand by ,thomas ,tosspott1 ,foreman of the ,jury40 ,illustration ,one of the witnesses1 hight ,mistress ,full-,pot1 the hostess1 called in his defence1 thus winds up her evidence1-- 8,nay1 ,i beseech you1 give me leave to speak to you2 if you put him to ,death1 all ,england is undone1 for there is not such another in the ,land that can do as he can do1 and hath done2 for he can make a ,cripple to go1 he can make a ,coward to fight with a valiant ,soldier1 nay1 he can make a good ,soldier feel neither ,hunger or ,cold4 ,besides1 for ,valour in himself1 there are few that can encounter with him1 for he can pull down the strongest ,man in the ,world1 and lay him fast asleep40 ,of course1 the jury found a verdict of ,not ,guilty4 ,beer has a large literature of its own1 principally metrical1 but this has pretty well been collected in two books--,the ,curiosities of ,ale and ,beer1 by ,john ,bickerdyke2 and ,in ,praise of ,ale1 by ,w4 ,t4 ,marchant--either of which would be a valuable addition to any one's library4 ,yet in neither of them is met with ,ned ,ward's 8,dialogue between ,claret and ,darby ,ale10 published #afia1 in which each of the drinks speak for themselves2 and1 of course1 the arguments of ale are all potent over his antagonist4 ,space will only allow of a very short extract4 8,darby4--,i'm glad to know you1 ,high and ,mighty ,sir2 ,think you your pompous empty ,name could stir ,my ,choler8 ,no1 your ,title makes me fear ,as much as if you'd been ,six ,shilling ,beer4 ,claret4--,thou ,son of ,earth1 thou dull insipid thing1 ,to level me1 who am of ,liquors ,king1 ,with lean ,small ,beer1 but that thou art not worth ,my ,anger1 else ,i'de frown thee into ,earth4 ,darby4--,i neither fear your ,frown1 nor court your ,smile2 ,but1 if ,i'm not mistaken all this while1 ,by other names than ,claret you are known-- ,claret4--,you do not hear me1 ,sir1 the ,fact disown1 ,some call me ,barcelona1 some ,navar1 ,some ,syracuse1 but at the ,vintner's ,bar ,my name's ,red ,port4 ,but call me what they will1 ,claret ,i am1 and will be ,claret still10 etc41 etc4 ,illustration ,not content with praising the liquor ale1 our ancestors fell to eulogising the vessels used for its consumption1 and the 8,black ,jack0 and 8,leather ,bottel0 both came in for their meed of praise4 ,sketches of a fine example of each are here given1 taken from the national collection in the ,british ,museum4 ,the ,black ,jack is a jug or pitcher1 made of leather1 which was sometimes ornamented with a silver rim and a silver plate with the owner's name or coat of arms engraved thereon4 ,here is a short lyric1 8,in praise of the ,black ,jack40#aab 8,be your liquor small1 or as thick as mudd1 ,the cheating bottle cryes1 good1 good1 good1 ,whereat the master begins to storme1 ,cause he said more than he could performe4 ,and ,i wish that his heires may never want ,sack1 ,that first devis'd the bonny black ,jack4 ,no ,tankerd1 ,flaggon1 ,bottle nor ,jugg ,are half so good1 or so well can hold ,tugg1 ,for when they are broke1 or full of cracks1 ,then they must fly to the brave black ,jacks4 ,and ,i wish1 etc4 ,when the ,bottle and ,jack stands together1 ,o fie on't1 ,the ,bottle looks just like a dwarfe to a ,gyant2 ,then had we not reason ,jacks to chuse ,for this'l make ,boots1 when the ,bottle mends shoes4 ,and ,i wish1 etc4 ,and as for the bottle you never can fill it ,without a ,tunnell1 but you must spill it1 ',tis as hard to get in1 as it is to get out1 ',tis not so with a ,jack1 for it runs like a ,spout ,and ,i wish1 etc4 ,and when we have drank out all our store1 ,the ,jack goes for ,barme to brew us some more2 ,and when our ,stomacks with hunger have bled1 ,then it marches for more to make us some bread4 ,and ,i wish1 etc4 ,i now will cease to speak of the ,jack1 ,but hope his assistance ,i never shall lack1 ,and ,i hope that now every honest man1 ,instead of ,jack will y'clip him ,john4 ,and ,i wish1 etc40 ,but the composer of 8,a ,song in praise of the ,leather ,bottel0 could rise to the magnitude of his subject in a far superior manner than the preceding poet1 the refrain of his song being of a higher type4 8,and ,i wish in ,heaven his ,soul may dwell1 ,that first devised the ,leather ,bottel40 ,illustration ,the uses of the ,bottel were so manifest1 and its material so superior to any other1 that it occupied a higher position4 ,it was better than wood1 for it would not run1 and was unbreakable4 ,when a man and his wife fell out1 as will occasionally happen even in the best matrimonial existence1 the bottel could be thrown at each other1 without great injury either to human1 or the bottel4 ,it held no temptation to steal1 as if it were of silver2 nor could it be broken1 as if it were of glass--because1 as the song justly says1-- 8,then what do you say to these ,glasses fine8 ,yes1 they shall have no ,praise of mine2 ,for when a ,company there are sat1 ,for to be merry1 as we are met2 ,then1 if you chance to touch the ,brim1 ,down falls your ,liquor1 and all therein2 ,if your ,table ,cloath be never so fine1 ,there lies your ,beer1 your ,ale or ,wine2 ,it may be for a small ,abuse1 ,a young ,man may his ,service lose2 ,but had it been in a ,leather ,bottel1 ,and the ,stopple in1 then all had been well40 ,the rhymester recapitulates the gratitude of all classes for this extremely handy and unbreakable convenience1 and winds up thus1 somewhat sadly-- 8,then when the ,bottel doth grow old1 ,and will good ,liquor no longer hold1 ,out of its side you may take a ,clout1 ,will mend your ,shooes when they'r worn out2 ,else take it1 and hang it upon a ,pin1 ,it will serve to put many ,trifles in1 ,as ,hinges1 ,awls1 and ,candle-ends1 ,for young ,beginners must have such things4 ,then ,i wish1 etc40 ,the next most popular ,english drinking vessel was the greybeard1 or as it was sometimes1 but seldom1 called the ,bellarmine1 from the ,cardinal of that name so famous for his controversial works4 ,these jugs were imported largely from the ,low ,countries1 where the ,cardinal's name was a reproach4 ,these greybeards are of very common occurrence1 being frequently found in excavating on the sites of old houses4 ,two centuries after the greybeard1 came the brown ,staffordshire ,toby ,philpot1 an enormously stout old gentleman1 whose arms and hands encircle his enormous paunch1 and his three-cornered hat forms a most convenient lip1 whence the ale can be poured4 ,it owes its origin to a once very popular drinking song1 entitled 8,the ,brown ,jug10 which is an imitation from the ,latin of ,hieronymus ,amaltheus1 by ,francis ,fawkes1 ,m4,a41 published in #agfa1 which is the date of the accompanying illustration4 ,illustration 8,dear ,tom1 this brown jug1 which now foams with mild ale1 ,out of which ,i now drink to sweet ,nan of the ,vale1 ,was once ,toby ,philpot1 a thirsty old soul1 ,as e'er cracked a bottle1 or fathom'd a bowl2 ,in bousing about1 'twas his pride to excel1 ,and amongst jolly topers he bore off the bell4 ,it chanced as in dog-days he sat at his ease1 ,in his flower-woven arbour1 as gay as you please1 ,with his friend and a pipe1 puffing sorrow away1 ,and with honest ,old ,stingo sat soaking his clay1 ,his breath-doors of life on a sudden were shut1 ,and he died full big as a ,dorchester ,butt4 ,his body1 when long in the ground it had lain1 ,and time into clay had dissolved it again1 ,a potter found out1 in its covert so snug1 ,and with part of ,fat ,toby he form'd this brown jug2 ,now sacred to friendship1 to mirth1 and mild ale-- ,so here's to my lovely sweet ,nan of the ,vale40 ,burton-on-,trent may be termed the ,metropolis of ,english ,beer1 and there1 veritably1 8,beer is ,king40 ,this pre-eminence is attributed to the quality of the water1 which seems peculiarly fitted for brewing purposes1 and the fact that the large brewers there located use none but the finest malt and hops procurable4 ,there is an old saying1 that wherever an ,englishman has trodden1 and where has he not8 there may be found an empty beer bottle4 ,and1 truly1 he does carry the taste for his natural beverage wherever he goes1 and the export trade is enormous1 every ship wanting freight1 filling up with bottled beer1 as a safe thing4 ,fuller1 in his ,worthies of ,england 7ed4 #affb1 p4 #aae71 gives his account of the origin of bottled beer4 ,speaking of ,alexander ,nowell1 who was made ,dean of ,st4 ,paul's as soon as ,queen ,elizabeth came to the throne1 he mentions his fondness for fishing1 and says1 8,without offence it may be remembred1 that leaving a ,bottle of ,ale 7when fishing7 in the ,grasse2 he found it some dayes after1 no ,bottle1 but a ,gun1 such the sound at the opening therof4 ,and this is believed 7,casualty is ,mother of more ,inventions than ,industry7 the original of bottled-ale in ,england40 ,the ,london brewer had to be content1 before ,sir ,hugh ,myddleton brought the ,new ,river to the ,metropolis1 with the water obtained from the ,thames1 for ,artesian wells were not1 and other well water must1 from the crowded state of the ,city1 have been highly charged with organic matter4 ,but their trade was so important that they were incorporated into a ,gild1 and the ,brewers' ,company is now in existence1 having their ,hall in ,addle ,street1 ,wood ,street4 ,the ,city still maintains the importance of beer as a beverage by keeping an ,ale ,conner1 whose duty is to taste ales1 and see that the price charged is not excessive4 ,their oath of office may be found in the ,liber ,albus1 published at the instance of the ,government4 ,illustration3 ,,village ,,inn4 ,illustration3 ,,village ,,inn4 ,the names of our great ,english brewers are too well known among the ,english people to need recapitulation--and space is too scarce to describe their premises4 ,the ,london draymen have always been noted as a race of tall stalwart men1 and brewers generally have taken a pride in getting the largest and strongest horses for their work4 ,these two draymen are of the time of ,george ,i41 and the weight they are carrying contrasts favourably with the satire of a huge dray horse dragging a four and a half gallon cask4 ,on one notable occasion brewers' draymen have gone beyond their last4 ,when ,general ,haynau visited ,barclay's ,brewery1 they rose in indignation against him and chased him from the place1 because it was alleged that the ,general had caused a lady to be flogged6 ,illustration ,the ,village ,ale-house is1 or was1 the village club1 and certainly is a welcome place of rest for the wayfarer4 ,they are always clean1 and frequently quaint1 although now-a-days it would be hard to find1 as ,rowlandson did1 a turnspit dog on duty4 ,illustration ,the names of ales are legion2 but some are worthy of a passing notice on account of their strength1 such as some of the ,college ,ales1 those brewed at the birth of an heir--to be drank at his coming of age1 ,ten ,guinea ,ale1 etc41 and there are any quantity of pseudo beers--i4e4 those not made from malt and hops1 ,china ,ale1 ,radish ,ale1 ale made from beet or mangel wurzel1 and heather beer1 which latter is of so great antiquity that its method of manufacture is said to have been lost with the extirpation of the ,picts1 although some say it was brewed by the ,danes4 ,it is probable that the flowers and tops of the heath were used as a substitute for hops1 as1 previous to the introduction of the latter plant1 broom1 wormwood and other bitter herbs were used4 ,j4 ,a4 ,illustration3 ,after ,rowlandson4 ,,france3 ,cerevisia2 ,double ,bire2 ,adulteration4 ,,germany3 ,mum2 ,beer ,factories2 ,faust4 ,,india3 ,pachwai1 ,piworree4 ,,japan3 ,saki2 ,kmpfer4 ,,russia3 ,kvas2 ,vodki2 ,pivo4 ,,sweden3 ,spruce4 ,,tartary3 ,baksoum4 ,,france4 ,in ,france beer was originally known as cervoise from the ,low ,latin cerevisia4 ,there are two sorts1 white and red2 the latter has more hops4 ,when much grain enters into the composition it is called double bire4 ,its qualities vary here as elsewhere1 according to the grain employed in its manufacture1 the malt1 and the fermentation4 ,it has been commonly adulterated with ledum palustre or wild rosemary1 a strong narcotic4 ,allusions to beer are comparatively infrequent in ,french works4 ,the details of its manufacture1 which present no remarkable points of variation1 may be found in any ,french work on brewing4 ,illustration3 ,after ,a4 ,l4 ,mayer4 ,,germany4 ,of the many beers of this country1 perhaps the most deserving of notice here is the ,mum of ,brunswick1 well known and appreciated for its excellence4 ,the process observed in its manufacture has been1 it is said1 always kept a mystery1#aac and to prevent discovery1 the men who brewed it were hired for life4 ,the origin of the word ,mum is obscure4 ,the ,german ,mumme1 a strong ale producing silence#aad from intoxication2 the ,danish word for a mask1 because it exhibits the parties drinking it with a new face2 and ,christian ,mummer of ,brunswick1 the supposed inventor of the drink1 have been by turns suggested4 ,the varied kinds of ,schenk1 or winter beer1 and ,lager1 or summer beer1 are fairly well known4 ,the ,leipzig ,goose and the ,berlin white beer are refreshing drinks in summer4 ,an excellent description of ,bierbrauerei apparatus is given in ,brockhaus' ,conversations ,lexikon1 ,band iii4 ,the most important beer factories are in ,munich1#aae ,erlangen1 ,zirndorf1 ,nrnberg1 and ,vienna4 ,german beer is far less potent than that of ,england1 but want of strength is made up by the quantity taken4 ,from the time of ,goethe1 and long before1 ,germans were great consumers of beer1 and the scene in his 8,faust10 of students in ,auerbach's ,cellar1 was typical of his time4 ,now-a-days there is no degeneracy in the ,german beer drinker1 and a ,viennese 8,saufender ,renommist0 will drink his thirty half-pints of ,mrzen at a sitting4 ,german beers are now readily attainable at any ,german restaurant in ,london4 ,,india4 ,the ,hill-tribes of ,india commonly consume ,pachwai1 prepared from rice and other grain in ,bengal4 ,in ,nepaul a beer named ,phaur1 made from rice or wheat1 is brewed much in the same manner as ,english ale1 which it is said strongly to resemble4 ,it is in considerable repute and1 according to ,hamilton1#aaf wheat and barley are in ,nepaul reared for the express purpose of making the beer and other drinks similar to it4 ,in the ,west ,indies the negroes make a fermented drink resembling beer from cassava1 which in ,barbadoes is termed piworree1#aag and in other places ouycou4 ,this plant1 the manioc or mandioc of ,america1 grows to the size of a small tree1 and produces roots like our parsnips4#aah ,ouycou is sometimes brewed very strong4 ,it is considered nourishing and refreshing1 as indeed most drinks which gratify the palate seem to be considered4 ,molasses and yams are used in its preparation4 ,the liquor is red4 ,piworree or paiwari is also made by the ,indians in ,honduras1 as in ,brazil1 from cassava4 ,cassava bread carbonised superficially is placed in hot water until fermentation arises4 ,to promote this1 feminine chewing is found efficacious4 ,the taste1 says ,simmonds1 is said to resemble that of ale1 but is not 8quite so agreeable--this may easily be believed40 ,cela dpend1 as in the case of the chica of the sierras of ,south ,america4 ,,japan4 ,kmpfer1 in his ,history of ,japan1 i41 #aba1 tells us that in the manufacture of ,sacke or ,saki1#aai a strong and wholesome beer produced from rice1 the ,japanese are not excelled by any other people4 ,this beer1 a very ancient drink1 is white when fresh1 but becomes brown1 if it remains long in the cask4 ,it is manufactured to the highest degree of excellence in ,osacca1 and thence exported to other countries4 ,the beer's name is said to be derived from that of this city1 being the genitive case of the word1 with the initial letter omitted4 ,it is wholesome and pleasant1 but should be drunk moderately warm4#abj ,there are many varieties of saki1 distinguished by different names4 ,,russia4 ,quass1 or ,kvas1 a word signifying sour1 an ancient ,scythian beverage1 is the ordinary household beer of ,russia4 ,a variety of it called ,kisslyschtschy is variably described as exceedingly pleasant1 and as an abominable small beer1 something like sweet wort or treacle beer1 almost as vile as the ,vodki or ,russian gin4 ,these matters of course depend on individual taste4 ,the ,russian pivo1 also in common use1 is said to resemble ,german beer1 but ,german beers are many and diverse4 ,,sweden4 ,swedish beer is made at ,stockholm4 ,spruce beer is much in use4 ,this drink is said to have originated from a decoction of the tops of the spruce fir4 ,in ,norway and ,denmark as well as in ,sweden this liquor is made from boiling the leaves1 rind and branches of pines4 ,but the ,spruce beer of ,great ,britain and ,ireland--either white or brown1 according as sugar or molasses is employed in the making--is an essence or fluid extract procured by boiling the shoots1 tops1 bark and cones of the ,scotch fir 7pinus sylvestris74 ,spruce beer is supposed to be of much medicinal value as an antiscorbutic4 ,samuel ,morewood presents us with a gratifying reflection on this matter4 ,while1 he says1 ,spruce is beneficial to the health of man1 it has not1 by its 8consequence depreciated his character1 or lowered him in his moral dignity40 ,,tartary4 ,the beer to be met with in ,tartary is for the most part of an indifferent quality4 ,that brewed from barley and millet by the ,turkestans1 termed baksoum1 more resembles water boiled with rice than beer4 ,they1 however1 admire it1 and affirm that it is an invaluable remedy for dysentery4 ,the reader will have already perceived that it is a cosmopolitan practice to pamper the appetite under the pretence of preserving the health4 ,baksoum is acid in taste1 of no scent1 a feeble intoxicant1 and cannot be kept for any length of time4 ,illustration ,non-,alcoholic ,drinks4 ,illustration ,,tea4 ,i4 ,popularity of ,tea as a ,drink--,consumption in ,england1 and comparative ,use all over the ,world--,legend of its ,origin--,date of its ,use--,growth of the ,plant--,different ,kinds of ,tea--,great ,falling off in the ,exports from ,china--,ceylon ,tea--,high ,prices of--,statistics--,analysis of ,tea4 ,of all non-alcoholic beverages1 ,tea claims the pre-eminence1 being drank by nearly1 if not quite1 half the population of the world1 and common alike to all climes and all nations4 ,in ,china it is the national beverage1 and it is used not only as an ordinary drink1 but it is the chief factor in visits of ceremony1 and in hospitality4 ,japan1 too1 is a large consumer1 and its houses of entertainment are 8,tea0 houses4 ,in the wilds of ,thibet its use is universal1 and so it is on the steppes of ,tartary1 where1 however1 it is made as nauseous and repulsive a drink as possible4 ,in ,russia1 it is the traveller's comfort1 and every post house is bound by law to have its samovar hot and boiling1 ready for the wayfarer4 ,in ,australia1 ,new ,zealand1 and ,tasmania1 the 8billy0 of tea is familiar1 and forms the only drink of the shepherd1 the stockman1 and the digger4 ,all the ,british colonies and possessions are devotees to the 8cup which cheers1 but not inebriates40 ,great ,britain herself is a great tea drinker1 whether it be the 8five o'clock tea10 which has developed into a cult1 with vestments peculiar thereto2 the poor seamstress1 stitching for hard life1 who takes it to keep herself awake for her task2 or the labourer1 who takes his tin bottle with him to the field4 ,in fact1 go where you will1 in every civilized portion of the world 7except ,greece1 where the consumption is merely nominal71 and you will find drinkers of tea4 ,great ,britain is the centre of the tea trade of the world1 and in #ahhi she imported a total quantity of #bbb1adg1ffa lbs41 the declared value of which was #i1ihg1ifg4 ,of this she took for her own consumption1 and paid duty thereon1 #ahe1fbh1dia lbs1 which1 at #f;d4 per lb4 duty1 produced a revenue of #d1fdj1gjd4 ,wisely or not1 ,mr4 ,goschen1 in the ,budget for #ahij1 reduced the duty to #d;d4 per lb4 ,in spite of this enormous quantity of tea drank in ,great ,britain1 she does not rank as the largest consumer per head1 which1 leaving out ,china1 ,japan1 ,thibet1 and ,tartary1 where statistics are unknown1 is as follows3--#aba ,australian ,colonies1 ,new ,zealand1 ,tasmania1 ,great ,britain1 ,newfoundland1 ,canada1 ,bermuda1 ,united ,states1 ,holland1 ,cape ,colony1 ,natal1 ,russia1 ,denmark1 ,uruguay1 ,argentine ,republic1 ,b4 ,honduras1 ,barbadoes1 ,trinidad1 ,antigua1 ,british ,guiana1 ,persia1 ,portugal1 ,bahamas1 ,switzerland1 ,norway1 ,germany1 ,grenada1 ,morocco1 ,st4 ,vincent1 ,jamaica1 ,belgium1 ,sweden1 ,france1 ,roumania1 ,austria-,hungary1 ,bulgaria1 ,spain1 ,turkey 7no returns71 ,italy 7ditto71 ,greece 7nominal71 ,mauritius1 #ahhh1 #ajf1ehi lbs4 ,sierra ,leone1 #ahhh1 #f1jjh lbs4 ,the tea shrub grows wild in ,assam1 and in other parts between the limits of ,n4 ,latitude #ae to #dj1 and this zone is most favourable to its growth in its cultivated form1 although of late years ,ceylon1 which is nearer the equator1 has made enormous strides in the production of tea4 ,up to the present time1 however1 ,china has furnished the largest quantity1 and for centuries has enjoyed the monopoly of its production2 a monopoly now broken down1 and every day vanishing1 mainly owing to the roguery of its manufacturers and the folly of its growers4 ,of course such a plant could have had no common origin1 and no reader need be surprised at its story4 ,the legend runs that ,prince ,darma1 or ,djarma1 the third son of ,king ,kosjusvo1 went1 very many centuries ago1 from ,india to ,china1 where he abode1 and became celebrated for his piety4 ,like the fakirs of ,india1 he showed his religious tendencies in a morbid manner--living only under heaven's canopy1 fasting for weeks together1 and eliminating sleep altogether from his daily wants4 ,tradition says that this state of things continued for years1 until1 one day1 weary nature asserted her pre-eminence1 and ,darma slept4 ,imagine his holy horror on his awakening6 ,something of the same kind must have possessed ,cranmer when he stretched forth his right hand in the flames of his funereal pyre1 with the heart-wrung exclamation1 8,this hand hath offended40 ,so with ,darma2 filled with pious horror1 his first thought was1 how to expiate his offence1 and his peccant eyelids were1 consequently1 cut off and thrown upon the ground4 ,next day1 returning to the spot where he had involuntarily sinned1 he saw two shrubs1 of a kind never before beheld in ,china4 ,he tasted them1 found them aromatic1 and1 moreover1 possessing the quality of imparting wakefulness to their consumer4 ,the discovery and miracle became noised abroad1 and hence the popularity of tea in ,china4 ,but1 apart from this legend1 the ,chinese themselves have no certain record of the introduction of tea into their country4 ,they believe that it was in use in the third century1 and in the latter end of the fourth century1 ,wangmung1 a minister of the ,tsin dynasty1 made it fashionable and much increased its consumption4 ,in all probability it was chewed at that time1 for a decoction of it does not appear to have been drank until the time of the ,suy dynasty1 when the ,emperor ,wass-te1 suffering from headache1 was cured by drinking an infusion of tea leaves1 by the advice of a ,buddhist priest4 ,in the early seventh century this manner of using the shrub was general1 and it has maintained its popularity unto the present time1 making itself friends wherever it is introduced4 ,the tea-plant somewhat resembles the ,camellia ,japonica1 and ,linnus1 imagining that the black and green teas came from different shrubs1 named them ,thea bohea and ,thea viridis4 ,fortune has definitely settled that both green and black tea are made off the same plants1 and it is now taken that there is but one tea-plant1 the ,thea ,sinensis1 of which1 however1 there are several varieties1 induced by climate1 soil1 etc4 ,tea-plants are grown from seeds1 and are made bushy by pinching off the leading shoots4 ,they are planted in rows1 each plant being three or four feet distant from the other1 and the leaves are stripped in the fourth or fifth year of its growth1 and are plucked until the tenth or twelfth1 when the plant is grubbed up4 ,may and ,june are the general months of picking1 which is done mostly by women2 but the time varies according to the district4 ,the young and early leaves give the finest and most delicate teas1 but the flavour very much depends upon the drying and roasting2 but still some soils and climates have a great deal to do with the taste1 the finest tea in ,china growing between the #bgth and #cast parallels of latitude4 ,illustration3 ,,thea ,,sinensis4 ,the ,trade names of teas imported from ,china to ,england are3 ,black--,congou1 ,souchong1 ,ning ,yong and ,oolong1 ,flowery and ,orange ,pekoe4 ,the latter1 and ,caper1 being artificially scented1 are1 therefore1 carefully eschewed by cognoscenti4 ,green--,twankay1 ,hyson ,skin1 ,hyson1 ,young ,hyson1 ,imperial1 and ,gunpowder4 ,black tea has the rougher taste1 and produces the darkest infusion4 ,green tea1 however1 has the greater effect upon the nerves1 and if taken strong1 acts as a narcotic1 producing1 with some people1 tremblings and headaches1 and on small animals even causing paralysis4 ,it is1 therefore1 generally mixed with black in small proportion1 say lb4 to #a lb4 black tea4 ,there is also what is called brick tea1 which is consumed in the ,north of ,china1 ,tartary1 and ,thibet1 but which we never see in ,england4 ,this choice tea is made from the stalks and refuse and decayed twigs1 mixed with the serum of sheep and ox blood1 which1 when it is pressed into moulds1 hardens it4 ,the ,russians are said to get the finest tea that comes out of ,china--called ,caravan ,tea--which is made into large bales1 covered with lead4 ,this goes to ,russia entirely overland1 and to this fact some attribute its superior and delicate flavour4 ,the tea trade of ,china is rapidly going from her1 and she has but herself1 and the shortsighted knavery of her growers and manufacturers1 to thank for it4 ,according to a ,tea ,circular1#abb the following are the imports and deliveries of ,china tea from #ast to #cjth ,june3-- #ahhh4 #ahhi4 #ahij4 #f1fig1jjj lbs4 #ejh1jjj lbs4 #deb1jjj lbs4 a truly fearful falling off4 ,english people got tired of the flavourless stuff sent from ,china1 and ,india and ,ceylon having perfected the manufacture 7which at first start of the industry of tea growing in those parts was not good71 send us delicious tea1 of a much higher market value than that of ,china4 ,ceylon tea1 especially1 has enormously won the favour of the ,english tea-drinking community in a very few years1 as the following short statistics1 taken from a ,tea ,circular1#abc will show1-- ,the total value of all the ,ceylon tea in bond in #ahhj was #e1jbd4 ,ditto ditto ditto #ahhh 0 #a1eee1jie4 ---------- ,the duty on above1 at #f;d4 per lb41 was respectively #b1hga4 #dfd1ffd4 ---------- showing that not only had the quantity imported enormously increased1 but so had the quality1 as shown by the enhanced market value4 ,one instance1 although an exceptional one1 will show what ,ceylon can produce in the way of tea4 ,on #acth ,january1 #ahij1 was sold at the ,london ,commercial ,tea ,sale ,rooms1 a consignment of tea from the ,gallebodde ,estate1 ,ceylon1 which experts described as the finest tea ever grown4 ,this unique tea was of the brightest gold colour1 resembling grains of gold4 ,its sale excited the keenest competition1 and it was eventually knocked down for #d #gs4 per lb41 but it was resold a few days afterwards to a wholesale firm at the enormous price of #e #ajs4 per lb4 8,much excitement prevailed yesterday in the ,london ,commercial ,tea ,sale ,rooms1 ,mincing ,lane1 on the offering of a small lot of ,ceylon tea1 from the ,gartmore ,estate4 ,this tea is composed almost entirely of small #8golden tips1' which are the extreme ends of the small succulent shoots of the plant4 ,competition was of a very keen description1 the tea being ultimately knocked down to the ,mazawattee ,ceylon ,tea ,company at the unprecedented price of #aj #bs4 #f;d4 per pound40--,standard1 ,march #aath1 #ahia4abd ,another circular of the same firm of tea brokers gives a list of #acb tea gardens in ,ceylon4 ,indian tea is fast helping to supersede ,china tea1 and another ,tea ,circular#abe points out that1 8,towards the #aij million lbs4 probably required for home use during the coming year1 ,india and ,ceylon together will contribute fully #aej millions40 ,it also gives the following3-- 8,,london ,,statistics ,,for ,,year ,,ending #ca,,st ,,may40 #ahhh4 #ahhi4 #ahij4 ,import1 ,indian #hf1cga1jjj #id1ied1jjj #aja1jeb1jjj ,ceylon #ad1gje1jjj #bf1cij1jjj #cd1bdf1jjj ,china #aag1ahe1jjj #ih1fie1jjj #ij1jig1jjj ,java #b1ihi1jjj #d1agj1jjj #c1ajg1jjj ------------ ---------- ----------- ,total #bba1bej1jjj #bbd1bji1jjj #bbh1ejb1jjj ,delivery1 ,indian #he1fai1jjj #ia1cfh1jjj #aja1afh1jjj ,ceylon #ab1egh1jjj #bc1hcj1jjj #ca1idg1jjj ,china #aaf1hgj1jjj #aje1ffh1jjj #hg1feb1ijj ,java #c1acc1ajj #c1hfb1jjj #c1bhj1jjj ----------- ----------- ----------- #bah1bjj1jjj #bbd1gbh1jjj #bbd1jdg1jjj ,of which-- ,home ,consumpt4 #ahc1jjj1jjj #ahe1bej1jjj #ahg1idj1jjj ,export #ce1bjj1jjj #ci1ejj1jjj #cf1ajg1jjj ,there are three active substances in tea1 which we should do well to notice3 ,volatile ,oil1 ,theine1 and ,tannin4 ,the volatile oil can be distilled by ordinary process1 and it contains the aroma and flavour of tea in perfection4 ,its action on the human body is not thoroughly known1 with the exception that it is injurious in a greater or less degree4 ,the ,chinese are well aware of the fact1 and will rarely use tea until it is a year old1 thus allowing some of it to evaporate1 and it is probably owing to this oil that tea-tasters 7who taste as much by smell as by palate7 are subject to attacks of headache and giddiness4 ,theine is the principle which gives to tea its power of lessening the waste of the tissues in the human body1 and1 when separated from the decoction1 it forms an alkaloid having no smell1 a slightly bitter taste1 and is composed of colourless crystals4 ,it is also an active agent in ,mat or ,paraguay tea1 in coffee 7when it is called caffeine1 although identical in substance71 in ,guarana1 which is used as coffee in ,brazil1 and in the ,kola ,nut of ,africa4 ,the third product1 tannin1 gives roughness of flavour to the tea1 and is particularly developed by allowing the infusion to stand a long time4 ,it is harmless2 at least1 its combination in tea has never been found to be hurtful2 ,its presence is at once shown by dropping some tea on the clean blade of a knife1 when it will produce a black stain--the tannin derived from oxgalls1 and a solution of iron1 forming the ink with which we write4 ,that ,chinese tea has been1 and is1 largely adulterated1 is an indisputable fact1 and in those bygone days1 when all our supply came from ,china1 it had to be borne4 ,now1 at all events1 the ,indian and ,ceylon teas are pure1 and can be taken without the slightest fear4 ,the green teas used to be most adulterated1 but the black teas could also tell their tale of fraud4 ,j4 ,a4 ,illustration ,illustration ,,tea4 ,,ii4 ,introduction of ,tea into ,europe--,early ,authorities thereon--8,tay0--,its ,introduction into ,england--,excise ,duty thereon--,thomas ,garway's ,advertisement4 ,when tea was first introduced into ,europe is still an unsettled question1 and the earliest mention that the writers can find 7that is1 to verify7 is in a volume of ,travels by ,father ,giovanni ,pietro ,maffei1#abf published #aehh 7book vi41 p4 #aji74 ,speaking of his travels in ,china1 he says3 8,quanquam vitibus more nostro non exprimunt merum1 uvas quodam condimenti genere in hyemem adservare1 mos est2 cterum ex herba quadam expressus liquor admodum salutaris1 nomine ,chia1 calidus hauritur1 ut apud ,japonios3 ,cujus maxime beneficio1 pituitam1 gravedinem1 lippitudinem nesciunt2 vitam bene longam1 sine ullo ferme languore traducunt1 oleis alicubi carent40 8,although they do not extract wine from the vines as we do1 but have a custom of preserving the grapes as a kind of condiment for the winter1 they yet press out of a certain herb1 a liquor which is very healthy1 which is called ,chia1 and they drink it hot1 as do the ,japanese4 ,and the use of this causes them not to know the meaning of phlegm1 heaviness of the head1 or running of the eyes1 but they live a long and happy life1 without pain1 or infirmity of any sort40 ,another early mention of it is in a book by ,giovanni ,botero1#abg which was translated into ,english by ,robert ,peterson1 8of ,lincolne's ,inne1 ,gent40 ,he says 7p4 #ge71 8,they haue also an herbe1 out of which they presse a delicate iuyce1 which serues them for drincke instead of wyne4 ,it also preserues their health1 and frees them from all those euills1 that the immoderat vse of wyne doth breed vnto us40 ,early in the seventeenth century tea was becoming known in ,europe1 mainly through the instrumentality of the ,dutch ,east ,india ,company1 and we learn much about it in the writings of ,father ,alexandre de ,rhodes1 who1 after thirty-five years' travel1 gave the benefit of his experiences to the public4 ,he left ,rome in ,october1 #afah1 and thus writes about 8,de l',vsage du ,tay1 qui est fort ordinaire en la ,chine40#abh ,he says1 8,one of the things which1 in my opinion1 contributes most to the great health of this people1 who often attain to extreme old age1 is ,tay1 the use of which is very common throughout the ,east1 and which is beginning to be known in ,france1 by means of the ,dutch1 who bring it from ,china1 and sell it at ,paris at #cj francs the pound1 which they have bought in that country for #h or #aj sols1 and yet ,i perceive that it is very old1 and spoilt4 ,thus it is that we brave ,frenchmen suffer strangers to enrich themselves in the ,east ,india trade1 whence they might draw the fairest treasures of the world1 if they had but the courage to undertake it as well as their neighbours1 who have less means of being successful than they have4 8,tay is a leaf as large as that of our pomegranate1 and it grows on shrubs similar to the myrtle3 it does not exist elsewhere throughout the world1 but in two provinces of ,china1 where it grows4 ,the chief is that of ,nanquin1 whence comes the best ,tay1 which they call ,ch2 the other is the province of ,chin ,chean4 ,the gathering of this leaf in both these provinces is made with as much care as we exercise in our vintage1 and its abundance is so great1 that they have enough to supply the rest of ,china1 ,japan1 ,tonquin1 ,cochin ,china1 and several other kingdoms1 where the use of tea is so common1 that those who drink it but three times a day are most moderate1 many taking it ten or twelve times1 or1 in other words1 at all hours of the day4 8,when the leaf is gathered1 it is well dried in an oven1 after which it is put in tin boxes1 which are tightly closed1 because if the air gets to it1 it is spoiled1 and has no strength1 the same as wine that is exposed to the air4 ,i leave you to judge if ,messieurs the ,hollanders take care of that when they sell it in ,france4 ,to know whether the ,tay is good1 you must see that it is very green1 bitter1 and so dry as to be easily broken with the fingers4 ,if it passes these tests1 it is good2 otherwise1 be assured it is not worth much4 8,this is how the ,chinese treat the ,tay when they take it4 ,some water is boiled in a very clean pot1 and when it boils it is taken off the fire1 and this leaf is put therein1 according to the quantity of water3 that is to say1 the weight of a crown of ,tay to a large glass of water4 ,they cover the pot well1 and1 when the leaves sink to the bottom of the water1 then is the time to drink it1 for then it is that the ,tay has communicated its virtue to the water1 and made it of a reddish colour4 ,they drink it as hot as they can1 for it is good for nothing if it gets cold4 ,the same leaves which remain at the bottom of the pot will serve a second time1 but then they boil them with the water4 8,the ,japanese take ,tay differently1 for they make it into powder1 which they throw into boiling water1 and swallow the whole4 ,i know not whether this method of making it is more wholesome than the former2 ,i always use it thus1 and find that it is common among the ,chinese4 ,both mix a little sugar with the ,tay to correct the bitterness1 which1 however1 does not seem disagreeable to me4 8,there are three chief virtues in ,tay4 ,the first is to cure and prevent headache2 for my part1 when ,i had a headache1 by taking ,tay1 ,i felt so comforted1 that it seemed to draw all my pain away1 for the principal force in ,tay is to expel those gross vapours that mount to the head1 and inconvenience us4 ,if it is taken after supper1 it generally hinders sleep2 yet there are some in whom it causes sleep1 because by only expelling the grossest vapours1 it leaves those which induce sleep4 ,for myself1 ,i have experienced it often enough1 when ,i have been obliged to sit up all night hearing the confessions of my native ,christians1 which frequently happened2 ,i had only to take ,tay at the hour when ,i should have been going to sleep1 and ,i could go all night without wishing for sleep1 and next morning ,i was as fresh as if ,i had had my usual slumber4 ,i could do this once a week without being incommoded4 ,once ,i tried to continue this wakefulness for six consecutive nights1 but on the sixth ,i was quite knocked up4 8,tay is not only good for the head2 it has a marvellous effect in comforting the stomach1 and aiding the digestion1 so that it is ordinarily drank after dinner1 but not generally after supper1 if sleep is required4 ,the third thing that ,tay does is to purge the reins of gout and gravel1 and it is1 perhaps1 the true reason why these maladies are unknown in these countries1 as ,i have said before40 ,one thing is very certain4 ,tea would not have been in use any length of time in ,france before it would be drank1 as a novelty1 in ,england1 and by the year #affj it had become in such general use that it was made a vehicle for taxation1 as we see by the #ab ,chas4 ,,ii41 c4 #bc3 8,for every gallon of ,chocolate1 ,sherbet1 and ,tea1 made and sold1 to be paid by the ,makers thereof1 ,eightpence10 and men were appointed to visit the coffee-houses twice daily to see the quantity brewed4 ,but this was so inconvenient1 that in #afhh1 after giving this scheme a good trial1 the ,act was repealed by #a ,will4 ,mary1 c4 #dj1 and the duties on coffee1 chocolate1 and tea 7for this latter #as4 per lb47 were charged and collected at the ,custom ,house1 because 8,it hath been found by experience1 that the collecting of the duty arising to your ,majesties by virtue of several ,acts of ,parliament1 by way of excise1 upon the liquors of ,coffee1 ,chocolate and ,tea1 is not only very troublesome and unequal upon the retailers of those liquors1 but requireth such attendance of officers1 as makes the neat receipt very inconsiderable40 ,in the ,british ,museum is a broadside folio advertisement1 supposed to be about ,a4,d4 #afjj1 of a tobacconist1 one ,thomas ,garway1 who kept a coffee-house in ,exchange ,alley1 known up till late years1 when it has disappeared in the universal rage for improvements1 as ,garraway's ,coffee ,house4 ,it is as follows3-- 8,an ,exact ,description of the ,growth1 ,quality1 and ,vertues of the ,leaf ,,tea1 by ,thomas ,garway in ,exchange ,alley1 near the ,royal ,exchange in ,london1 and ,seller and ,retailer of ,,tea and ,,coffee4 8,,tea is generally brought from ,china1 and groweth there upon little ,shrubs or ,bushes1 the ,branches whereof are well garnished with white ,flowers that are yellow within1 of the bigness and fashion of sweet ,brier1 but smell unlike1 bearing thin green leaves about the bigness of ,scordium1 ,mirtle1 or ,sumack1 and is judged to be a kind of ,sumack3 ,this ,plant hath been reported to grow wild only1 but doth not1 for they plant it in their ,gardens about four foot distance1 and it groweth about four foot high1 and of the ,seeds they maintain and increase their ,stock4 ,of all places in ,china this ,plant groweth in greatest plenty in the ,province of ,xemsi1 ,latitude #cf degrees1 bordering upon the ,west of the ,province of ,honam1 and in the ,province of ,namking1 near the ,city of ,lucheu2 there is likewise of the growth of ,sinam1 ,cochin ,china1 the ,island de ,ladrones and ,japan1 and is called ,cha4 ,of this famous ,leaf there are divers sorts 7though all of one shape7 some much better than the other1 the upper ,leaves excelling the other in fineness1 a property almost in all ,plants1 which ,leaves they gather every day1 and drying them in the shade1 or in ,iron pans over a gentle fire till the humidity be exhausted1 then put up close in ,leaden pots1 preserve them for their ,drink ,tea1 which is used at ,meals1 and upon all ,visits and ,entertainments in private ,families1 and in the ,palaces of ,grandees4 ,and it is averred by a ,padre of ,macao1 native of ,japan1 that the best ,tea ought not to be gathered but by ,virgins who are destined to this work1 and such ,qu non dum ,menstrua patiuntur2 gemm qu nascuntur in summitat arbuscula1 servantur ,imperitorie1 ac prcipuis ejus ,dynastis3 qu autem infra nascuntur1 ad latera1 populo conceduntur4 ,the said ,leaf is of such known vertues1 that those very ,nations so famous for ,antiquity1 ,knowledge1 and ,wisdom1 do frequently sell it amongst themselves for twice its weight in ,silver1 and the high estimation of the ,drink made therewith1 hath occasioned an inquiry into the nature thereof among the most intelligent persons of all ,nations that have travelled in those parts1 who1 after exact ,tryal and ,experience by all ,wayes imaginable1 have commended it to the use of their several ,countries1 for its ,vertues and ,operations1 particularly as followeth1 viz43-- 8,the ,quality is moderately hot1 proper for ,winter or ,summer4 8,the ,drink is declared to be most wholesome1 preserving in perfect health untill extreme ,old ,age4 8,the particular ,vertues are these3-- 8,it maketh the ,body clean and lusty4 8,it helpeth the ,head-ach1 giddiness and heaviness thereof4 8,it removeth the ,obstructions of the ,spleen4 8,it is very good against the ,stone and ,gravel1 cleansing the ,kidneys and ,vriters1 being drank with ,virgin's ,honey instead of ,sugar4 8,it taketh away the difficulty of breathing1 opening ,obstructions4 8,it is good against ,lipitude distillations1 and cleareth the ,sight4 8,it removeth ,lassitude1 and cleanseth and purifieth adult ,humors and a hot ,liver4 8,it is good against ,crudities1 strengthening the weakness of the ,ventricle or ,stomack1 causing good ,appetite and ,digestion1 and particularly for ,men of a ,corpulent ,body1 and such as are great eaters of ,flesh4 8,it vanquisheth heavy ,dreams1 easeth the ,brain1 and strengtheneth the ,memory4 8,it overcometh superfluous ,sleep1 and prevents ,sleepiness in general1 a draught of the ,infusion being taken1 so that1 without trouble1 whole nights may be spent in ,study without hurt to the ,body1 in that it moderately heateth and bindeth the mouth of the ,stomach4 8,it prevents and cures ,agues1 ,surfets and ,feavers1 by infusing a fit quantity of the ,leaf1 thereby provoking a most gentle ,vomit and breathing of the ,pores1 and hath been given with wonderful success4 8,it 7being prepared and drank with ,milk and ,water7 strengtheneth the inward parts1 and prevents ,consumptions1 and powerfully asswageth the pains of the ,bowels1 or griping of the ,guts1 or ,looseness4 8,it is good for ,colds1 ,dropsies1 and ,scurveys1 if properly infused1 purging the ,blood by ,sweat and ,urine1 and expelleth ,infection4 8,it drives away all pains in the ,collick proceeding from ,wind1 and purgeth safely the ,gall4 8,and that the ,vertues and ,excellencies of this ,leaf1 and ,drink1 are many and great1 it is evident and manifest by the high esteem and use of it 7especially of late years7 among the ,physitians and ,knowing men in ,france1 ,italy1 ,holland1 and other parts of ,christendom2 and in ,england it hath been sold in the ,leaf for six pounds1 and some times for ten pounds the pound weight1 and1 in respect of its former scarceness and dearness1 it hath been only used as a ,regalia in high ,treatments and ,entertainments1 and ,presents made thereof to ,princes and ,grandees till the year #afeg4 ,the said ,thomas ,garway did purchase a quantity thereof1 and first publickly sold the said ,tea in ,leaf and ,drink1 made according to the directions of the most knowing ,merchants and ,travellers into those ,eastern ,countries2 ,and upon knowledge and experience of the said ,garway's continued care and industry in obtaining the best ,tea1 and making ,drink thereof1 very many ,noblemen1 ,physitians1 ,merchants and ,gentlemen of ,quality have ever since sent to him for the said ,leaf1 and daily resort to his ,house in ,exchange ,alley aforesaid1 to drink the ,drink thereof4 8,and that ,ignorance nor ,envy have no ground or power to report or suggest that what is here asserted of the ,vertues and ,excellences of this pretious ,leaf and ,drink hath more of design than truth1 for the justification of himself and satisfaction of others1 he hath here innumerated several ,authors1 who1 in their ,learned ,works1 have expressly written and asserted the same1 and much more1 in honour of this noble ,leaf and ,drink1 viz41 ,bontius1 ,riccius1 ,jarricus1 ,almeyda1 ,horstius1 ,alvarez ,semeda1 ,martinious in his ,china ,atlas1 and ,alexander de ,rhodes in his ,voyage and ,missions1 in a large discourse of the ordering of this ,leaf1 and the many ,vertues of the ,drink1 printed at ,paris #afec part #aj4 ,chap4 #ac4 8,and to the end that all ,persons of ,eminency and ,quality1 ,gentlemen and others who have occasion for ,tea in ,leaf1 may be supplyed1 ,these are to give notice that the said ,thomas ,garway hath ,tea to sell from sixteen to fifty ,shillings the pound4 8,and whereas several ,persons using ,coffee1 have been accustomed to buy the powder thereof by the pound1 or in lesser1 or greater quantities1 which1 if kept two dayes looseth much of its first ,goodness4 ,and1 forasmuch as the ,berries after drying may be kept1 if need require for some ,moneths2 ,therefore all persons living remote from ,london1 and have occasion for the said powder1 are advised to buy the said ,coffee ,berries ready dryed1 which being in a ,morter beaten1 or in a ,mill ground to powder1 as they use it1 will so often be brisk1 fresh1 and fragrant1 and in its full vigour and strength as if new prepared1 to the great satisfaction of the ,drinkers thereof1 as hath been experienced by many in this ,city4 ,which ,commodity of the best sort1 the said ,thomas ,garway hath alwayes ready dryed to be sold at reasonable ,rates4 8,also such as will have ,coffee in powder1 or the ,berries undryed1 or ,chocolata1 may by the said ,thomas ,garway be supplied to their content3 ,with such further ,instructions and perfect ,directions how to use ,tea1 ,coffee and ,chocolata1 as is1 or may be needful1 and so as to be efficatious and operative1 according to their several ,vertues4 8,,finis4 8,,advertisement4 ,that ,nicholas ,brook1 living at the ,sign of the ,frying-pan in ,st4 ,tulies ,street against the ,church1 is the only known man for the making of ,mills for grinding of ,coffee powder2 which ,mills are by him sold from #dj to #de shillings the ,mill40 ,j4 ,a4 ,illustration ,illustration ,,tea4 ,,iii4 ,pepys and ,tea--,first ,english ,poem on ,tea--,price of ,tea temp4 ,queen ,anne--,scandal over the ,tea ,cup--,jonas ,hanway and ,dr4 ,johnson on ,tea--,love of the latter for this ,beverage--,how to make ,good ,tea4 ,by ,garway's ,advertisement we get at one fact1 that the use of tea had not been brought into popular use before #afeg3 a fact which is borne out by that old quid nunc ,pepys1 who would surely have noticed it1 as1 indeed1 he did as soon as it was brought under his ken4 ,he mentions it in his diary under date #beth ,sept41 #affa1 as being then a novelty1 at all events to him4 8,i did send for a ,cup of ,tee1 a ,china ,drink of which ,i never drank before40 ,and again1 #bhth ,june1 #affg1 8,home1 and there find my wife making of ,tee1 a drink which ,mr4 ,pelling the ,potticary tells her is good for her cold and defluxions40 ,so that even then it was not a common drink with people well to do1 as we know ,pepys was4 ,the old ,english custom of drinking beer at breakfast died very hard--nay1 it is not yet dead--surviving in farm houses in many places in the country1 notably in ,somersetshire2 and when tea became cheap enough to be drank by the middle classes1 those beneath them in the social scale indulged in sage tea1 and infusions of other home grown herbs4 ,as it increased in popularity1 the poets got hold of it1 and numerous were the laudatory verses in ,latin respecting its virtues4 ,but1 as far as can be found1 the earliest ,english poem about it was by ,waller1 as under3-- 8,,of ,,tea4 ,,commended ,,by ,,her ,,majesty4#abi 8,venus her ,myrtle1 ,phbus has his bays2 ,tea both excels1 which she vouchsafes to praise4 ,the best of queens1#acj and best of herbs1 we owe ,to that bold nation#acj which the way did shew ,to the fair region where the ,sun does rise1 ,whose rich productions we so justly prize4 ,the ,muses' friend1 ,tea does our fancy aid1 ,repress those vapours which the head invade1 ,and keeps that palace of the soul serene1 ,fit on her birthday to salute the ,queen40 ,as years went on1 its popularity became greater1 and it is satisfactory to find by the following extract from ,lord ,clarendon's diary1 #ajth ,feb41 #afhh1 that the tea imported was good1 and that it was treated properly4 8,le ,pre ,couplet supped with me2 he is a man of very good conversation4 ,after supper we had tea1 which he said was as good as any he had drank in ,china4 ,the ,chinese1 who came over with him and ,mr4 ,fraser1 supped likewise with us40 ,with time1 the consumption of tea increased1 and its price was much lower2 but still1 taking the money value in the time of ,queen ,anne1 in relation to our own it was excessively dear1 and its value fluctuated much4 ,black tea varied in #agjd from #abs4 to #afs4 per pound2 in #agjf1 #ads4 to #afs42 in #agjg1 which seems to have been an exceptionally dear year1 #afs41 #bjs41 #bbs41 #bds41 #cjs41 and #cbs4 ,in #agji it was from #ads4 to #bhs42 and in #agaj1 #abs4 to #bhs4 ,green tea in #agje was #acs4 #f;d42 in #agjg1 #bjs41 #bbs41 #bfs42 in #agji1 #ajs4 to #aes42 and in #agaj1 #ajs4 to #afs4 ,the difference between new and old is given once2 the new tea is #ads41 and the old #abs4 and #ajs4 ,the margins in price are not only accounted for by difference in age1 but it was well known that old leaves were re-dried and used in the cheaper sorts2 indeed1 there is a very curious advertisement in the advertising portion of the ,tatler1 ,aug4 #bfth1 #agaj3 8,bohea ,tea1 made of the same ,materials that ,foreign ,bohea is made of1 #afs4 a ,pound4 ,sold by ,r4 ,fary only1 at the ,bell in ,grace ,church ,street1 ,druggist4 ,note4 ,the ,natural ,pecko ,tea will remain1 after ,infusion1 of a light grey colour4 ,all other ,bohea ,tea1 tho' there be ,white in it will ,change ,colour1 and is artificial40 ,tea was now 8in ,society10 and was made the medium of pleasant little runions4 ,the accompanying illustration gives a ,tea-party1 temp4 ,queen ,anne1 by which it appears that the cups had no handles at that time1 and were of veritable oriental porcelain1 and that it was not considered a breach of good manners to drink tea out of saucers4 ,but even this ,eden had its serpent1 in the shape of scandal1 from which the tea table seemed no freer in the time of ,good ,queen ,anne than our own4#aca 8,thus they take a sip of ,tea1 then for a draught or two of ,scandal to digest it1 next let it be ,ratifia1 or any other ,favourite ,liquor1 ,scandal must be the after draught to make it sit easie on their ,stomach1 till the half hour's past1 and they have disburthen'd themselves of their ,secrets1 and take ,coach for some other place1 to collect new matter for ,defamation40 ,illustration ,an anonymous poet of that time sings thus of the tea table3-- 8,here we see ,scandal1 7for our sex too base71 ,seat in dread ,empire in the ,female ,race1 ',mong ,beaus and ,women1 ,fans and ,mechlin ,lace1 ,chief seat of ,slander1 ,ever there we see ,thick ,scandal circulate with right ,bohea4 ,there1 source of black'ning ,falsehood's ,mint of ,lies1 ,each ,dame th' ,improvement of her ,talent tries1 ,and at each ,sip a ,lady's ,honour dies2 ,truth rare as ,silence1 or a ,negro ,swan1 ,appears among those ,daughters of the ,fan40 ,peter ,motteux1 in the same reign 7#agab71 wrote 8,a ,poem in ,praise of ,tea20 but his theme may1 after all1 only have been taken to advertise his ,east ,india ,warehouse in ,leadenhall ,street4 ,he says3-- 8,from boist'rous ,wine ,i fled to gentle ,tea2 ,for1 ,calms compose us after ,storms at ,sea4 ,in vain wou'd ,coffee boast an equal ,good2 ,the ,chrystal ,stream transcends the flowing ,mud4 ,tea1 ev'n the ,ills from ,coffee sprung1 repairs1 ,disclaims its ,vices1 and its ,vertue shares4 ,to bless me with the ,juice two ,foes conspire1 ,the clearest ,water with the purest ,fire1 ,wine's ,essence in a ,lamp to ,fewel turns1 ,exhales its ,soul1 and for a ,rival burns4 ,the ,leaf is mov'd1 and the diffusive ,good1 ,thus urg'd1 resigns its ,spirits in the ,flood4 ,in curious ,cups the liquid ,blessing flows1 ,cups fit alone the ,nectar to enclose4 ,dissembled ,groves and ,nymphs by ,tables plac'd1 ,adorn the ,sides1 and tempt the ,sight and ,taste1 ,yet more the gay1 the lovely ,colour courts1 ,the ,flavour charms us1 but the ,taste transports10 etc41 etc4 ,as years went on1 the poets still sung its praises2 and the following portion of 8,tea ,drinking0 brings us down to #ageb1 by which time it was a necessity in polite society3-- ,illustration 8,sparkling with ,youth's gay ,pride1 like mirthful ,may ,in the ,sedan enclos'd1 by ,slaves up-born2 ,see the ,love-darting ,dame1 swing 'long the ,way1 ,or to present the ,visit1 or return4 ,the sleek-comb'd ,valet trimly trips before2 ,loud1 thro' the gazing ,croud1 commanding ,place2 ,with well-tim'd ,raps he strikes the sounding ,door1 ,thunders in ,taste1 and rattles with a ,grace4 ,along the ,pavement grates the swift-slop'd ,chair1 ,back on its well-oil'd ,hinges flies the ,gate2 ,behind the high held ,hoop1 up-springs the ,fair1 ,rustling in rich ,array1 and silken ,state4 ,the how d'ye ended1 the ,contest of ,place1 ,and all the fashionable flutt'ring ,toils1 ,down1 curtsying1 sink the ,laughter loving ,race1 ,and undisturb'd one ,moment1 ,silence smiles4 ,behold6 the ,beau-complexion'd ,porcelain1 ,as ,bell turn'd ,tulips variegated show1 ,in order set among the tittering ,train1 ,replete with ,spoils which from ,cathaya flow4 ,the leading ,fair the ,word harmonious gives1 ,betty around attends with bending ,knee2 ,each white-arm ,fair1 the painted ,cup receives ,pours the rich ,cream1 or stirs the sweetened ,tea10 etc41 etc4 ,but1 although some wrote in praise of it1 there was a class of people who were opposed to its use1 and one of them was the celebrated ,jonas ,hanway1 of umbrella fame4 ,possessed of a competence1 he had nothing particular to do1 so he turned philanthrope4 ,he took up the cause of the ,marine ,society1 he was a ,governor of the ,foundling ,hospital1 and he founded a ,magdalen ,hospital1 which is now at ,streatham4 ,these things1 however1 did not fully occupy his time1 and he scribbled de omnibus rebis3 among other things1 about ,tea1 against which he had a great aversion4 ,in #ageg he wrote 8,,an ,,essay ,,on ,,tea1 considered as pernicious to ,health1 obstructing ,industry1 and impoverishing the ,nation2 also an ,account of its ,growth1 and great ,consumption in these ,kingdoms40 ,judged from our present standpoint1 it was a farrago of rubbish and false arguments1 and he recommends 8,herbs of our own growth in lieu of ,tea40 ,he gives a list of plants which he thinks useful for the purpose3--,ground ,ivy1 plain1 or with a few drops of lemon ,balm1 or lemon ,balm alone1 or mixed with ,sage1 and ,lavender flowers2 ,lavender itself2 the fresh tops of ,thyme2 ,mint2 the flowery tops of ,rosemary1 by themselves1 or mixed with ,lavender2 ,penny royal and ,lavender2 ,horehound2 ,trefoil flowers2 ,sorrel2 ,angelica2 ,sage2 ,cowslips2 and recommends a drink1 which he occasionally used himself1 made of ,ground ,ivy and stick ,liquorice4 ,illustration3 ,a ,tea ,garden3 ,george ,morland4 ,this roused the ire of no less a person than ,dr4 ,samuel ,johnson1 who1 as 8a hardened and shameless tea drinker2 who has for many years diluted his meals with only the infusion of this fascinating plant2 whose kettle has scarcely time to cool2 who with tea amuses the evening1 with tea solaces the midnights1 and with tea welcomes the morning10#acb could not sit still1 and have his favourite beverage abused4 ,so he wrote a review of ,hanway's ,essay1 and demolished it4 ,johnson certainly was an immoderate and enthusiastic tea drinker1 and somewhat a tyrant over it1 as ,mrs4 ,piozzi rather ruefully relates4 8,by this pathetic manner1 which no one ever possessed in so eminent a degree1 he used to shock me from quitting his company1 till ,i hurt my own health not a little by sitting up with him1 when ,i was myself far from well2 nor was it an easy matter to oblige him even by compliance1 for he always maintained that no one forebore their own gratifications for the sake of pleasing another2 and if one did sit up1 it was1 probably1 to amuse one's self4 ,some right1 however1 he certainly had to say so1 as he made his company exceedingly entertaining1 when he had once forced one1 by his vehement lamentations and piercing reproofs1 not to leave the room1 but to sit quietly1 and make tea for him1 as ,i often did in ,london till four o'clock in the morning40 ,when dining one day with ,william ,scott 7afterwards ,lord ,stowell71 ,johnson told a little story of ,garrick and his tea drinking4 8,i remember drinking tea with him long ago1 when ,peg ,woffington made it1 and he grumbled at her for making it too strong40 ,but the names of worthy and eminent tea drinkers are legion1 and its virtues are so patent that even our ,legislators have a room set apart in the ,houses of ,parliament for the discussion of it and other matters4 ,one or two words only1 before concluding the subject of tea1 and those are to show how to make a good cup of tea4 ,illustration ,the teapot should be thoroughly warmed1 and the tea put into it before the addition of the water1 which should just have come to the boil1 and not have been boiling for any length of time4 ,after standing about three minutes it should be ready for drinking4 ,no second water should be used4 ,a sufficiently large teapot1 or teapots1 should be provided1 and if the quantity required exceeds the supply1 then fresh tea should be made4 ,tea drinking has been stigmatised by some as slow poisoning2 and in one of ,hood's works we are treated to a pictorial representation of 8,sloe poison40 ,j4 ,a4 ,illustration ,illustration ,,mat4 ,its ,use in ,south ,america--,districts where ,grown--,its ,manufacture--,early ,notice of--,the ,mat ,cup and ,bombilla--,method of ,drinking--,its ,rapid ,deterioration4 ,yerba ,mat1 or ,paraguay ,tea1 which is made from the leaves of the ,ilex ,paraguayensis1 or ,brazilian ,holly1 takes the place of ,thea ,sinensis in nearly the whole of ,south ,america1 where it has been used by the ,indians from time immemorial1 and by their conquerors and settlers since the seventeenth century4 ,it grows abundantly in ,paraguay1 ,corrientes1 ,chaco1 and the south of ,brazil1 forming woods called yerbales4 ,one of the principal centres of the ,mat industry is the ,villa ,real1 a small town above ,asuncion1 on the ,paraguay ,river2 another is the ,villa de ,san ,xavier in the district between the rivers ,uruguay and ,parana4 ,if let alone1 it grows into a tree some fifteen or twenty feet high2 but the plants from which the ,mat is collected are moderate-sized shrubs1 with numerous stems from one root4 ,the leaves are from four to five inches long1 and the finest ,mat is made from the smallest shrubs4 ,one bush will furnish three different kinds of tea1 which are called caa-cuys1 caa-miri1 and caa-guaza--caa meaning leaf4 ,caa-cuys is made from the half expanded buds2 but1 although fine in flavour1 it has the misfortune of not keeping1 and1 consequently1 is all consumed in ,paraguay4 ,caa-miri is prepared in the same way as the ,jesuit padres made it1 the leaves being carefully picked1 and the nerves stripped before roasting them2 and the ,caa-guaza1 which is the commonest1 is prepared as follows3-- ,illustration ,a ,mat yerbal1 or plantation1 having been found1 and a sum paid to ,government for the collection of its leaves1 a party of from twenty-five to thirty ,indians settle down there with the intention of passing some five or six months4 ,they make themselves as comfortable as circumstances will permit1 by building wigwams covered with palm or banana leaves4 ,their next care is to beat1 with mallets1 a good hard and smooth earthen floor1 about six feet square1 which is called a tatacua4 ,over this is built an arch of poles1 on which is spread the boughs of the ,ilex1 and under which a lively fire is kindled1 that the leaves may be thoroughly dried without being scorched4 ,this result being effected1 the fire is swept off the hearth1 and the dried branches being spread thereon1 the leaves are beaten off with sticks1 which operation reduces them to a coarse powder4 ,sometimes they are pounded in mortars1 made by digging holes in the ground1 well rammed2 but now-a-days the ,mat is generally treated in a more scientific and cleanly manner1 the leaves being heated1 as tea in ,china1 in large iron pans set in brick work4 ,the dried leaves are then taken to the ,mat mill1 which may be worked by water power1 or by mules1 the wooden stampers being worked by teeth placed spirally round the circumference of a revolving cylinder4 ,a good-sized mill will turn out three tons of ,mat in a day4 ,the crushed leaves are then tightly packed in bags of damp bullock's hide1 sewn up and left to dry1 when they become as hard as stones4 ,these sacks generally weigh from #bjj to #bbj lbs41 and this quantity is considered a good day's work for a peon4 ,the collectors suffer terribly during this six months of forest life1 and the severe labour of collecting1 in those tropical forests1 is especially fatal to the unfortunate peons4 ,its use is as universal as tea in ,china4 ,the method of taking it has not varied for centuries2 and a description of it in #agacacc is as good as if written to-day4 ,illustration 8,during the day1 they make much use of the ,herb of ,paraguay1 which some call ,st4 ,bartholomew's ,herb1 who1 they pretend1 came into that ,province1 where he made it wholesome and beneficial1 whereas1 before1 it was venomous4 ,being only brought dry1 and almost in ,powder1 ,i cannot describe it4 ,instead of drinking the ,tincture1 or ,infusion1 apart1 as we drink ,tea1 they put the ,herb into a cup or bowl1 made of a ,calabash or ,gourd1 tipped with silver1 which they call ,mat2 they add sugar1 and pour on it the hot water1 which they drink immediately1 without giving it time to infuse1 because it turns as black as ink4 ,to avoid drinking the ,herb which swims at the top1 they make use of a silver pipe1 at the end whereof is a bowl1 full of little holes1 so that the liquor sucked in at the other end is clear from the ,herb4 ,they drink round from the same pipe1 pouring hot water on the ,herb as it is drank off4 ,instead of a pipe1 which they call ,bombilla2 some part the ,herb with a silver separation1 called ,apartador1 full of little holes4 ,the reluctance which the ,french have shown to drink after all sorts of people1 in a country where so many are diseased1 has occasioned the inventing of the use of little glass pipes1 which they began to use at ,lima4 ,that liquor is1 in my opinion1 better than ,tea2 it has a flavour of the ,herb1 which is agreeable enough2 the people of the country are so used to it1 that even the poorest use it once a day1 when they rise in the morning40 ,illustration ,frezier gives us an illustration of ,mat drinking1 in which we see a lady using the bombilla1 although the ,mat cup has an apartador4 ,the silver kettle for supplying hot water is fed with charcoal at the side1 and somewhat resembles the ,russian ,samovar4 ,we give a modern ,mat cup and bombilla2 but this1 which is made wholly of silver1 is only intended for one person's use4 ,sometimes the ,mat cups are made of the gourds of the ,cuca 7,crescentia ,cujete7 or ,cabao 7,cucurbita lagenaria7 silver mounted4 ,indeed1 the cup itself is the ,mat1 which gives the name to the herb1 meaning1 in the language of the ,incas1 a calabash4 ,the decoction is drank with a little brown sugar or lemon added1 never with milk1 and if not drank very quickly will turn quite black4 ,it loses in flavour and aroma by keeping1 so that in ,england it cannot possibly be drunk in perfection1 which1 of course1 can only be done on the spot where it is produced4 ,its virtues are much vaunted4 ,it is supposed to give nervous vigour1 and to enable the system to resist fatigue2 but this can scarcely account for the enormous quantity drunk1 although to persons unused to it1 when taken in large doses it is both purgative and emetic4 ,like ,chinese tea1 it has a volatile oil1 which gives it its peculiar aroma2 it also contains nearly #b per cent4 of theine1 and about #af per cent4 of an astringent acid1 resembling tannin1 which causes the infusion to turn black after a slight exposure to the air4 ,there is another variety of ,mat1 called ,gongonha1 which is drunk in ,brazil1 which is prepared from two other species of holly1 the ,ilex ,gongonha and the ,ilex ,theezans4 ,in ,chili a tea is made from the leaves of the ,psoralea glandulosa1 and in ,central ,america an infusion of the leaves of the ,capraria bifolia is drunk4 ,j4 ,a4 ,illustration ,illustration ,,cuca4 ,where ,grown--,sustaining ,power of ,cuca--,early ,mention of it1 and ,methods of ,preparing and ,using it--,cowley on ,cuca--,its ,modern ,manufacture and ,cost--,its ,medicinal ,properties--,cocaine and its ,dangers4 ,cuca or ,coca 7,erythroxylon ,coca7 is now used as a drink1 the leaves1 hitherto1 having been masticated4 ,it has very valuable medicinal qualities1 one of the chief being the ability to sustain fatigue by those who use it4 ,it grows in the valleys of the eastern slope of the ,andes1 in ,bolivia1 and ,peru2 wild in many places1 but that in use is generally cultivated4 ,it has been known ever since the ,conquest of ,peru1 notices of it being very early2 and1 considering the length of time this knowledge has obtained1 it is marvellous that it is only of very late years that our scientific men have interested themselves in its medicinal properties1 and that an infusion of its leaves has not come into common use4 ,illustration ,the earliest mention to be found of it in ,english is in a#acd translation 7#aegg7 of a book written by ,dr4 ,monades of ,seville4 8,,of ,,the ,,coca4 8,i was desirous to see that hearbe so celebrated of the ,indians1 so many yeares past1 which they doe call the ,coca1 which they doe sow and till with muche care and diligence1 for because they doe use it for their pleasures1 which we will speake of4 ,the ,coca is an hearbe of the height of a yerd1 little more or lesse1 he carrieth his ,leaves like to ,arraihau1 somewhat greater1 and in that ,leafe there is marked another ,leafe of the like forme1 with a line very thinne1 they are softe1 and of ,coulour a light greene1 they carrie the seede in clusters1 and it commeth to be so redde when it is ripe1 as the ,seede of ,arraihau1 when it is ripe4 ,and it is of the same greatnesse1 when the hearbe is seasoned1 that it is to be gathered1 it is knowen in the seede1 that it is ripe1 and of some rednes like to a blackekishe coulour1 and the hearbe beyng gathered1 they put them into ,canes1 and other thinges1 that they may drie1 that it maie be kepte and caried to other partes4 ,for that they carrie them from some high ,mountaines1 to others1 as ,marchaundise to be soulde1 and they barter and chaunge them for ,mantelles1 and ,cattell1 and ,salte1 and other thinges whiche doe runne like to money amongest us1 they doe put the seede into ,almaciga1#ace and from that thei do take them up1 and set them in another place1 into ,earth that is wel laboured or tilled1 and made as it is convenient for to put them1 by their lines and order1 as we doe put here a ,garden of ,beanes1 or of ,peason4 8,the use of it amongest the ,indians is a thing generall1 for many thinges1 for when they doe travail by the waie1 for neede and for their content when they are in their houses1 thei use it in this forme4 ,thei take ,cokles or ,oisters in their shelles1 and they doe burne them and grinde them1 and after they are burned they remaine like ,lyme1 very small grounde1 and they take of the ,leves of the ,coca1 and they chawe them in their ,mouthes1 and1 as they go chawyng1 they goe mingling with it of that pouder made of the shelles in such sorte1 that they make it like to a ,paste taking lesse of the ,pouder then of the ,hearbe1 and of this ,paste they make certaine small ,bawles rounde1 and they put them to drie1 and when they will use of them1 they take a little ,ball in their mouthe1 and they chawe hym2 passing hym from one parte to another1 procuring to conserue him all that they can1 and that beyng doen1 they doe retaurne to take another1 and so they goe1 using of it all the tyme that they have neede1 whiche is when they travaill by the waie1 and especially if it be by waies where is no meate1 or lacke of water4 ,for the use of these little ,bawles doe take the hunger and thurste from them1 and they say that they dooe receive substaunce1 as though that they did eate4 ,at other times thei use of them for their pleasure1 although that they labour not by the waie1 and thei do use the same ,coca alone1 chawing it and bringing it in their mouthes1 from one side to another1 untill there be no vertue remainyng in it1 and then they take another40 ,garcia ,lasso de la ,vega1 who wrote his ,commentarios ,reales in #afji1 gives a fine description of ,cuca--which is taken from his translator1 ,sir ,paul ,rycaut4 8,of the pretious ,leafe called ,cuca40 8,but above all we must not omit to discourse at large of the ,herb which the ,indians call ,cuca1 and the ,spaniards1 ,coca1 being that which is1 and hath been a considerable part of the ,riches of ,peru1 and such as hath yielded great benefit to the ,merchants4 ,and1 indeed1 the ,indians did justly esteem it for the rare ,virtues and ,qualities of it1 which the ,spaniards have not onely approved1 but have also discovered several other specifick and medicinal ,qualities belonging to it4 ,blas ,valera1 who was a very curious ,person1 and one who had resided many years in ,peru1 and came from thence thirty years after my departure1 hath wrote ,very largely of the many ,virtues of this ,herb1 and such as he hath found out by his own experience4 ,his words are these1 #8,the ,cuca is a small1 tender ,tree or ,bind1 about the height and biggness of a ,vine2 it produceth not many ,branches1 but is full of delicate ,leaves1 of about the breadth and length of a ,man's ,thumb2 it is of an excellent smell1 and very fragrant2 the ,spaniards and ,indians do both give them the name of ,cuca2 the which is so much esteemed by the ,indians1 that they prefer it before ,gold1 or ,silver1 or ,pretious ,stones4 ,they plant and manure them with great art and diligence1 and gather them with great care1 pulling them leaf by leaf1 and then lay them to dry in the ,sun1 and so the ,indians eat them dry4 8#8,the ,virtue and ,benefit of this ,cuca is plainly observable in labouring ,men1 who1 having eaten it are much refreshed1 and often labour a whole day in the strength of it1 without any other nourishment4 ,the ,cuca moreover preserves the ,body from many infirmities2 and our ,physicians make use of it1 being dried and beaten to powder1 to ease and assuage the ,inflammation1 or swelling of any ,wound2 it is good to strengthen bones which have been broken1 and expell colds from the ,body1 and to prevent them2 it is good also to cleanse great ,wounds of ,worms1 and heal them2 nor is the ,virtue of it less1 being taken inwardly1 than it is by outward applications4 ,besides all which ,virtues1 it yields a great benefit to the ,bishop and ,canons and other ,dependents on the ,cathedral ,church of ,cozco1 the ,tithes of the ,leaves of ,cuca being their greatest ,revenue2 it is also a great commodity amongst the ,merchants2 notwithstanding all which good ,qualities of the ,cuca1 there are many1 who being ignorant of its ,virtues have wrote against it2 for no other reason1 than because the ,gentiles1 in ancient times1 did1 by their ,diviners and ,wizards offer this ,cuca to their ,gods in ,sacrifice2 and1 therefore1 having been abused to ,idolatry1 they conclude that it ought for ever to be esteemed abominable and prophane4 ,this ,argument might be available1 if it had been the custome to offer this ,herb onely to the ,devil1 but1 in regard that both ancient and modern ,idolaters have made their ,corn1 and ,fruits1 and whatsoever grows above or beneath the earth1 their ,drinks and ,water1 their ,wool and ,clothing1 their ,flocks and ,herds1 and all things else1 the matter and subject of their ,sacrifices2 we may argue from the same foundation1 that all those things are defiled and rendred as abominable and unclean as the ,cuca2 but to the clean1 all things being clean1 let us teach them to abhor and forsake their superstitious and idolatrous ,worships1 and let us1 using our ,christian ,liberty1 receive those ,blessings with moderation and thanksgiving4' 8,thus far are the ,words of ,blas ,valera4 ,to which we shall add thus much farther1 that this little ,tree is about the height of a ,man1 in the planting of which they cast the seed in its green shell1 and when it grows up1 they then hoa and open the ,earth for it1 as they do for ,vines1 supporting the tender twigs with stakes2 and in planting1 they take great care that the tender roots be laid streight in the ,earth1 for with the least doubling they dry and wither2 they take likewise the ,leaf of every sprig by itself1 and1 holding it between their fingers1 they cut it with great care till they come to the ,bud1 but do not touch it1 for then the whole branch will wither2 both the outside and inside of this ,leaf in the greenness and shape of it1 is like the ,arbuteus1 onely the ,leaves are so thin1 that three or four of them1 being doubled1 are not so thick as that of the ,arbuteus4444 8,when they gather the ,leaves they dry them in the ,sun2 but care is to be taken that they are not over-dried1 for then they lose much of their ,virtue1 and1 being very thin1 soon turn to powder2 nor will they bear much moisture2 for they soon grow musty and rotten2 but they lay them up in ,baskets of slit ,canes1 of which many fine ones are made in the ,antis4 ,with the ,leaves of those big ,canes1 which are about the third of a yard long1 they cover the top of the ,baskets1 to keep ,moisture from the ,leaves1 which is very prejudicial to them2 and to consider the great pains and care which is taken to nourish this ,cuca1 and the provisions of all things which are made for it1 we ought rather to render thanks to ,god for his abundant blessings in the variety of his ,creatures1 than to believe or conclude that what we write is fabulous or incredible2 if these fruits were to be planted or nourished in other ,countries1 the charge and labour of them would be more than the benefit4 8,the ,herb is gathered every four ,months1 that is three times a year1 and in the manuring of it care is taken to weed it often2 for the ,country being hot and moist1 the ,weeds grow apace1 and the ,herb sometimes increases so fast1 that the season for gathering of it advances fifteen days2 so that sometimes they have four ,harvests for it in a year2 the which1 a certain covetous ,tithe-gatherer observing1 in my time1 farmed the ,tithes of all the principal and rich ,inheritances and ,possessions about ,cozco1 and1 taking care to keep them clear and clean from ,weeds1 he so improved his ,revenue1 that the year following1 the ,farmer of the ,tithes made two thirds more than what had been made in the preceding years2 which caused a ,law ,suit between the ,farmer and the ,proprietor1 but what the ,issue was of it1 ,i that was then but a ,boy1 did not much remark4 8,amongst many other ,virtues of this ,cuca1 they say it corroborates the ,gums1 and fortifies the ,teeth1 and that it gives strength and vigour to any person that labours and toils1 onely by carrying it in his mouth4 ,i remember a ,story which ,i heard in my own ,countrey4 ,that a certain ,gentleman1 both by ,bloud and ,vertue1 called ,rodrigo ,pantoia1 journeying once from ,cozco to ,rimac1#acf met with a poor ,spaniard 7for there are some poor there1 as well as here71 travelling on foot1 carrying a little ,girl of about two years of age in his ,armes2 and being an acquaintance of this ,pantoia1 he asked him how he came to give himself the trouble of carrying that burthen2 to which the person that was on foot1 replied1 that he was poor1 and had not money to hire an ,indian to carry it4 8,in this discourse with him1 ,pantoia observed that his mouth was full of the ,cuca2 and it being1 at that time1 that the ,spaniards abhorred all things which the ,indians did eat or drink1 because they had been abused to ,idolatry1 and particularly they hated the ,cuca1 as a base and stinking ,weed1 which gave cause to ,pantoia to ask him farther1 why he1 being a ,spaniards1 did use those things which the ,spaniards hated2 for his necessities could never be so great as to compell him to ,meats or ,customs unlawfull4 ,to which the ,souldier replied1 that though he abhorred it as much as the ,spaniards1 yet necessity forced him to imitate the ,indians therein2 for that without it he could never be able to travell and carry his ,burthen1 for that holding it in his mouth1 he found such refreshment and strength1 that he was able to carry his ,load1 and perform his ,journey with chearfulness4 ,pantoia wondring at this ,report1 related to many others1 who1 afterwards1 making the same experiment thereof1 found that the ,indians made use of it rather for their refreshment and necessity1 than for any pleasure in the taste1 which in itself is not very pleasant or agreeable40 ,a plant having such manifold and beneficent properties must needs have a supernatural origin1 and the ,indians had a belief that the goddess ,varischa first introduced the ,cuca plant into ,peru1 and taught the inhabitants the use thereof4 ,abraham ,cowley sang thereof in his ,latin poems1 8,sex libri plantarum10 and use is made here of the translation by ,nahum ,tate1 of the fifth book1 published in #agjj4 ,the ,indian ,bacchus challenge the other deities to judge between the fruits of the two worlds4 444 8,but ,bacchus much more sportive than the rest1 ,fills up a ,bowl with ,juice from ,grapestones drein'd1 ,and puts it in ,omelichilus hand2 ,take off this ,draught1 said he1 if thou art wise1 ',twill purge thy ,cannibal ,stomach's ,crudities4 ,he1 unaccustomed to the acid ,juice ,storm'd1 and with blows had answer'd the ,abuse1 ,but fear'd t'engage the ,european ,guest1 ,whose ,strength and ,courage had subdu'd the ,east4 ,he therefore chooses a less dang'rous fray1 ,and summons all his ,country's ,plants away3 ,forthwith in decent ,order they appear1 ,and various ,fruits on various ,branches wear2 ,like ,amazons they stand in painted ,arms1 ,coca alone appears with little ,charms2 ,yet led the ,van1 our scoffing ,venus scorn'd ,the shrublike ,tree1 and with no ,fruit adorn'd4 ,the ,indian ,plants1 said she1 are like to speed ,in this ,dispute of the most sterile ,breed1 ,who choose a ,dwarf and ,eunuch for their ,head4 ,our ,gods laugh'd out aloud at what she said4 ,pachamama defends her darling ,tree1 ,and said the wanton ,goddess was too free1 ,you only know the fruitfulness of ,lust1 ,and therefore here your ,judgement is unjust1 ,your skill in other offsprings we may trust1 ,with those ,chast ,tribes that no distinction know ,of ,sex1 your ,province nothing has to do4 ,of all the ,plants that any ,soil does bear1 ,this ,tree in ,fruits the ,richest does appear1 ,it bears the best1 and bears 'em all the year4 ,ev'n now with ,fruits 'tis stor'd--why laugh you yet8 ,behold how thick with ,leaves it is beset1 ,each ,leaf is ,fruit1 and such substantial ,fare ,no ,fruit beside to ,rival it will dare4 ,mov'd with his ,countries ,roming ,fate 7whose ,coil ,must for her ,treasures be expos'd to toil7 ,our ,varicocha first this ,coca sent1 ,endow'd with ,leaves of wondrous ,nourishment1 ,whose ,juice succ'd in1 and to the ,stomach ta'en1 ,long ,hunger and long ,labour can sustain2 ,from which our faint and weary ,bodies find ,more ,succour1 more they cheat the drooping ,mind ,than can your ,bacchus and your ,ceres join'd4 ,three ,leaves supply for six days march afford1 ,the ,quitoita with this ,provision stor'd ,can pass the vast and cloudy ,andes o'er-- ,the dreadful ,andes plac'd 'twixt ,winter's store ,of ,winds1 ,rain1 ,snow1 and that more humble ,earth1 ,that gives the small but valiant ,coca ,birth2 ,this ,champion that makes war-like ,venus ,mirth4 ,nor ,coca only useful art at home1 ,a famous ,merchandize thou art become2 ,a thousand ,paci and ,vicugni groan ,yearly beneath thy ,loads1 and for thy sake alone ,the spacious ,world's to us by ,commerce known40 ,dr4 ,von ,tschudi says that the ,coca plant is regarded by the ,peruvian ,indian1 as something sacred and mysterious1 and it sustained an important part in religion of the ,incas4 ,in all ceremonies1 whether religious or warlike1 it was introduced1 for producing smoke at the great offerings1 or as the sacrifice itself4 ,during divine worship the priests chewed ,coca leaves1 and1 unless they were supplied with them1 it was believed that the favour of the gods could not be propitiated4 ,it was also deemed necessary that the supplicator for divine grace should approach the priests with an ,acullico in his mouth4 ,it was believed that any business undertaken without the benediction of ,coca leaves could not prosper2 and to the shrub itself worship was rendered4 ,during an interval of more than #cjj years1 ,christianity has not been able to subdue the deep-rooted idolatry2 for everywhere are found traces of belief in the mysterious power of this plant4 ,the excavators in the mines of ,cerro de ,pasco throw masticated ,coca on hard veins of metal1 in the belief that it softens the ore and renders it more easy to work4 ,the origin of this custom is easily explained1 when it is recollected that in the time of the ,incas it was believed that the ,coyas1 or deities of metals1 rendered the mountains impenetrable1 if they were not propitiated by the odour of ,coca4 ,the ,indians1 even at the present time1#acg put ,coca leaves into the mouths of dead persons1 to secure to them a favourable reception on their entrance into another world2 and when a ,peruvian ,indian1 on a journey1 falls in with a mummy1 he1 with timid reverence1 presents to it some ,coca leaves as his pious offering4 ,markham#ach also says1 8,the reliance on the extraordinary virtues of the ,coca leaf1 amongst the ,peruvian ,indians1 is so strong1 that1 in the ,huanaco province1 they believe that1 if a dying man can taste a leaf placed on his tongue1 it is a sure sign of his future happiness40 ,he also gives an account of the modern cultivation of the plant4 ,sowing is commenced in ,december and ,january1 when the rains begin1 which continue until ,april4 ,the seeds are spread on the surface of the soil in a small nursery or raising ground called almaciga1 over which there is generally a thatch roof 7huascichi74 ,at the end of about a fortnight they come up2 the young plants being continually watered1 and protected from the sun by the huascichi4 ,the following year they are transplanted to a soil specially prepared by thorough weeding1 and breaking up the clods very fine by hand2 often in terraces only affording room for a single row of plants1 up the side of the mountains1 which are kept up by small stone walls4 ,the plants are generally placed in square holes called aspi1 a foot deep1 with stones on the sides to prevent the earth from falling in4 ,three or four are planted in each hole1 and grow up together4 ,in ,caravaya and ,bolivia the soil in which the ,coca grows is composed of a blackish clay1 formed from the decomposition of the schists1 which form the principal geological features of the mountains4 ,on level ground the plants are placed in furrows called nachos1 separated by little walls of earth1 umachas1 at the foot of each of which a row of plants is placed2 but this is a modern innovation1 the terrace cultivation being the most ancient4 ,at the end of eighteen months the plants yield their first harvest1 and continue to yield for upwards of forty years4 ,the first harvest is called quita calzon1 and the leaves are then picked very carefully1 one by one1 to avoid disturbing the roots of the young tender plants4 ,the following harvests are called mitta 78time0 or 8season071 and take place three and even four times in the year4 ,the most abundant harvest takes place in ,march1 immediately after the rains2 the worst1 at the end of ,june1 called the ,mitta de ,san ,juan4 ,the third1 called ,mitta de ,santos1 is in ,october or ,november4 ,with plenty of watering1 forty days suffice to cover the plants with leaves afresh4 ,it is necessary to weed the ground very carefully1 especially while the plants are young1 and the harvest is gathered by women and children4 ,the green leaves1 called matu1 are deposited in a piece of cloth which each picker carries1 and are then spread out in the drying yard1 called matu-caucha1 and carefully dried in the sun4 ,the dried leaf is called ,coca4 ,the drying yard is formed of slate flags1 called pizarra2 and when the leaves are thoroughly dry1 they are sewn up in cestos1 or sacks1 made of banana leaves1 of #bj lbs4 each1 strengthened by an exterior covering of bayeta1 or cloth4#aci ,they are also packed in tambores of #ej lbs4 each1 pressed tightly down4 ,dr4 ,poeppig 7writing in #ahbg-cb7 reckoned the profits of a ,coca farm to be forty-five per cent4 ,the harvest is greatest in a hot moist situation2 but the leaf generally considered the best flavoured by consumers1 grows in drier parts1 on the sides of hills4 ,the greatest care is required in the drying2 for too much sun causes the leaves to dry up and lose their flavour1 while1 if packed up moist1 they become fetid4 ,they are generally exposed to the sun in thin layers4 ,the approximate annual produce of ,coca in ,peru is about #ae1jjj1jjj lbs41 the average yield being about #hjj lbs4 an acre4 ,more than #aj1jjj1jjj lbs4 are produced annually in ,bolivia1 according to ,dr4 ,booth of ,la ,paz2 so that the annual yield of ,coca throughout ,south ,america1 including ,peru1 ,bolivia1 ,ecuador1 and ,pasto1 may be estimated at more than #cj1jjj1jjj lbs4 ,at ,tacna1 the tambor of #ej lbs4 is worth #i to #ab dollars1 the fluctuations in price being caused by the perishable nature of the article1 which cannot be kept in stock for any length of time4 ,the average duration of ,coca in a sound state1 on the coast1 is about five months1 after which time it is said to lose flavour1 and is rejected by the ,indians as worthless4 ,cuca leaves can be bought in ,london1 but up to the present time it has not come into much use as a beverage1 yet it is supplied in ,roots' ,cuca ,cocoa1 which is a combination of ,cuca leaves1 and the ,cocoa bean4 ,there is no doubt whatever in ,cuca possessing the qualities ascribed to it1 and its application in medicine for many 8ills that man is heir to10 is being diligently pursued by physicians all over the civilized world1 with very beneficial results1 and it is a valuable addition to our pharmacopia4 ,johnston1 in ,the ,chemistry of ,common ,life1#adj speaking of the general effects of the ,coca leaf1 says that it 8acts differently according to the way in which it is used4 ,when infused1 and drunk like tea1 it produces a gentle excitement1 followed by wakefulness2 and1 if taken strong1 retards the approach of hunger1 prevents the usual breathlessness in climbing hills1 and1 in large doses1 dilates the pupil1 and renders the eye intolerant of light4 ,it is seldom used in this way1 however1 but is commonly chewed in the form of a ball or quid1 which is turned over and over in the mouth1 as is done with tobacco4 ,in this way its action is more gradual and prolonged than when the infusion only is taken4 ,it is also very different in its character1 because the constant chewing1 the continued action of the saliva1 and the influence of the lime or ashes chewed along with it1 extract from the leaf certain other active constituents which water alone does not dissolve1 when it is infused after the manner of tea40 ,it contains at least three different constituents2 an odoriferous substance1 a bitter principle1 and a kind of tannic acid4 ,when ,cuca is imported into this country the leaves are coated with a resinous substance1 like hops have1 slightly soluble in water1 but wholly in ether--which1 on evaporation1 leaves a brownish resin1 which is powerfully odorous4 ,this scent vanishes if it is exposed to the air for any length of time1 and thus is lost one of the most important ingredients of good ,cuca--rendering the leaf useless by keeping4 ,it contains a crystalline bitter principle which can be separated from it by alcohol4 ,like ,theine1 it is an alkaloid1 and is called ,cocaine2 but it is not harmless1 as1 in many particulars1 and in its physiological action upon the system1 it resembles ,atropine1 the alkaloid of the deadly nightshade4 ,it also has a tannic acid1 which gives a deep brownish green colour to the per salts of iron4 ,so we see in its constituents it closely resembles the ,thea ,sinensis1 only it is more powerful in its effects on the human frame1 and1 consequently1 ought not to be taken in the same quantity as we now take tea1 but it is invaluable in preventing1 or greatly diminishing1 the ordinary and natural waste which usually accompanies bodily exertion4 ,j4 ,a4 ,illustration ,illustration ,,kola4 ,whence ,kola comes--,early ,mention of--,early ,trade in--,cure for ,drunkenness--,the ,cattia edulis--,substitutes for ,tea4 ,kola can scarcely be called a tea1 because1 as a drink1 it is produced from a nut1 instead of a leaf1 but it is put here because it contains the alkaloid ,theine4 ,its botanical name is ,sterculia acuminata1 and it is a native of tropical ,west ,africa1 although now introduced into the ,west ,indies and ,brazils4 ,the earliest mention of it to be found1 is in 8the ,sieur ,bre's ,journey from ,albreda1 on the river ,gambia1 to ,kachao1 by land1 in the year #agjj40 ,shortly after his start from ,gambia1 he was entertained by a ,portuguese lady1 and 8after a short ,compliment1 one of her ,slaves1 a young1 handsome ,girl1 but very immodestly dressed1 presented the ,general a ,pewter ,basin full of ,kola1 a fruit much valued by the ,portugueze4 ,it is bitter1 and makes the ,teeth and ,spittle yellow40 ,barbot#ada gives a very bad illustration of the nut1 and the following description4 8,the ,cola is a sort of fruit1 somewhat resembling a large chestnut4 ,the tree is very tall and large1 on which this fruit grows1 in clusters1 ten or twelve of them together2 the outside of it is red1 with some mixture of blue2 and the inside1 when cut1 violet colour and brown4 ,it comes once a year1 is of a harsh1 sharp taste1 but quenches the thirst1 and makes water relish so well1 that most of the ,blacks carry it about them1 wheresoever they go1 frequently chewing1 and some eat it all day1 but forbear at night1 believing it hinders their sleeping4 ,the whole country abounds in this ,cola1 which yields the natives considerable profit1 selling it to their neighbours up in the inland2 who1 as some ,blacks told me1 sell it again to a sort of white men1 who repair to them at a certain time of the year1 and take off great quantities of it4 ,these white men are suppos'd to be of ,morocco or ,barbary1 for the ,english of ,bence island assur'd me1 there was a great quantity carry'd yearly by land to ,tunis and ,tripoli1 in ,barbary40 ,so we see that1 although a fair trade was done in ,kola over #aej years ago1 it is only beginning to be known in ,europe4 ,in ,congo it is called ,makasso1 and ,guru in ,soudan1 and the seeds or nuts are used in ,west and ,central ,africa to make a refreshing beverage1 which is somewhat allied to tea1 and which has the same active principle as cocoa1 without so much fatty matter4 ,it is refreshing1 invigorating1 and has digestive properties4 ,in the ,west ,indies it is sometimes used by the negroes to counteract the effects of intoxication4 ,it grows in pods1 which contains several seeds1 about the size of a horse chestnut4 ,at present it is only used as a tonic4 ,kola is said to be a cure for drunkenness1 and to sober an inebriate in an hour's time2 but woe be to him if he returns to his evil courses for three or four days--his punishment will be equal to sea-sickness4 ,there is a new product1 about which1 at present1 very little is known in ,europe4 ,this is the ,cattia edulis1 which is said to be similar in its properties to ,mat1 ,cuca1 and ,kola1 in maintaining animal strength for a time1 in the absence of food4 ,it has been used by the natives of ,arabia and ,abyssinia for centuries4 ,the plant is a shrub with lanceolate leaves of an olive-green colour1 and it flourishes in ,africa between #ae ,n4 and #cj ,s4 latitude1 but it is chiefly cultivated in ,arabia1 especially in the province of ,yemen4 ,from ,aden it is exported to the north-east of ,africa1 and the coasts of ,somali land4 ,the leaves are either chewed or infused like tea1 and their sustaining virtues have recently been tested by ,m4 ,leloups1 a ,french therapeutist4 ,he employed not only the infusion1 but the tincture1 and an extract of the leaves1 finding them all to produce wakefulness and banish fatigue4 ,no definite alkaloid has yet been obtained from the leaves4 ,in conclusion ,i may give the following list of substitutes for ,chinese ,tea and ,mat4 ,popular ,name4 ,where collected ,name of ,plant4 and used4 ,arabian ,tea4 ,arabia4 ,cattia edulis4 ,abyssinia4 ,cattia ,spinosa4 ,unnamed4 ,china4 ,sageretia theezans4 ,new ,jersey ,tea4 ,n4 ,america4 ,ceanothus ,americanus4 ,unnamed4 ,chili4 ,psoralea glandulosa4 ,boer ,tea4 ,cape of ,good ,hope4 ,cyclopia ,vogelii4 ,sloe and ,strawberry ,tea4 ,north ,europe4 ,prunus spinosa ,fragraria collina or ,f4 resca 4 ,long-life ,tea4 ,bencoolen4 ,glaphyria nitida 7flowers74 ,tea ,plants4 ,new ,holland4 ,leptospermum scoparium ,tasmanian ,tea4 and ,l4 ,thea4 ,melaleuca genistifolia1 and ,m4 scoparia4 ,unnamed4 ,chili4 ,myrtus ugni4 ,colony ,tea4 ,cape of ,good ,hope4 ,helichrysum serpyllifolium4 ,mountain ,tea4 ,n4 ,america4 ,gualtheria procumbens4 ,labrador ,tea4 ,n4 ,america4 ,ledum palustre and ,james's ,tea4 ,ledum latifolium4 ,toolsie ,tea4 ,india4 ,ocymum album4 ,oswego ,tea4 ,n4 ,america4 ,monarda didyma and ,m4 purpurea4 ,unnamed4 ,france4 ,micromeria thea sinensis4 ,sage ,tea4 ,north ,europe4 ,salvia officinalis4 ,ama tsja3 ,tea of ,heaven4 ,japan4 ,hydrangea thunbergii4 8,burr40 ,new ,holland4 ,acna sanguisorba4 ,santa ,f ,tea4 ,new ,granada4 ,styrax alstonia4 ,unnamed4 ,central ,america4 ,capraria bifolia4 ,cape ,barran ,tea4 ,new ,holland4 ,correa alba4 ,capito da matto4 ,brazil4 ,lautana pseudo thea4 ,faham or ,bourbon ,tea4 ,mauritius4 ,angrcum fragrans4 ,brazilian ,tea4 ,austria4 ,stachytarpheta jamaicensis4 ,mexican ,tea4 ,mexico and ,columbia4 ,chenopodium ambrosoides4 ,apalachian ,tea4 ,n4 ,america4 ,viburnum ,cassinoides1 and ,prinos glaber4 ,a tea is also made of coffee leaves1 and this infusion has been drunk for an unknown time in the ,eastern ,archipelago1 especially in the island of ,sumatra4 ,it is said to be an agreeable beverage1 and is preferred by the natives to the berry4 ,j4 ,a4 ,illustration ,illustration ,illustration ,,coffee4 ,its ,growth and ,birthplace--,where most ,drank--,legends as to its ,origin--,its ,gradual ,spread--,introduction into ,europe and ,england--,pasqua ,rosee's ,handbill--,the ,english ,coffee ,houses--,their ,rules--,a ,poem about ,coffee ,houses4 ,next to tea1 ,coffee is1 perhaps1 the infusion most drank1 its use being universal in ,turkey1 ,egypt1 ,persia1 and most ,mahometan countries2 and on the continent of ,europe1 with the exception of ,russia1 it is a greater favourite than tea4 ,in ,norway and ,sweden it is especially drank1 whilst tea is comparatively disused4 ,it is the seed of an evergreen shrub 7,coffea ,arabica7 which grows from six to twelve feet high1 with a stem of from six to fifteen inches in circumference4 ,when the blossom falls off1 there remains1 in its room1 or rather1 springs from each blossom1 a small fruit1 green at first1 but which becomes red when it ripens2 it is not unlike a cherry1 and is very good to eat4 ,under the flesh of this cherry1 instead of the stone1 is found the bean1 or berry1 which we call coffee1 wrapped round in a fine thin skin4 ,the berry is then very soft1 and of a disagreeable taste2 but as the cherry ripens1 the berry in the inside grows harder1 and the dried-up fruit being the flesh or the pulp of it1 which was before eatable1 becomes a shell or pod1 of a deep brown colour4 ,the berry is now solid1 and of a clear transparent green4 ,each shell contains one berry1 which splits into two equal parts4 ,in ,abyssinia coffee appears to have been used as a drink from time immemorial4 ,abd-,alkader1 a learned native of ,medina1 writing at the beginning of the seventeenth century1 gives us the history of its introduction into ,arabia4 ,a certain ,sheikh1 notorious for his piety and knowledge1 named ,jemal-,eddin1 brought it from ,persia to ,aden4 ,he was wont to take it as a medicine relieving the headache1 enlivening the heart1 and preventing drowsiness4 ,this last attribute at once recommended it to the various imams1 muftis1 and dervishes1 who wished to remain awake for the performance of religious exercises at night4 ,the examples of these holy persons had its usual influence upon the people1 and coffee drinking soon became a common custom4 ,not1 however1 without considerable opposition did this fashion come into vogue2 there were many long and animated disputes about the legitimacy of drinking coffee4 ,its defenders alleged its medicinal virtues1 its opponents declared it to be like wine1 of an inebriating nature--indeed1 a sort of wine itself2 and went so far1 in the heat of argument1 as to say that all who drank it would appear at the general resurrection with faces blacker than the bottoms of their coffee-pots4 ,an insult of this sort was surely sufficient to justify a prompt adoption of the severest rejoinder by the other side1 and1 in replying1 they became poetic4 ,said one3-- 8,it is a dear object of desire to the collector of knowledge2 ,it is the drink of the people of ,god1 and in it is health1 ,it's odour is ,musk1 it's colour ,ink3 ,the wise man and the good will sip it pure as milk in its innocence1 ,and differing from it but in blackness40 ,and another sang-- 8,courtesy is the coat of the customers in a ,coffee-house4 ,the ,coffee-house itself is as ,paradise in its carpets1 its company and its tender delights4 ,when the waiter comes with the ,coffee in its cup of porcelain1 sorrow disappears1 and all anguish sinks under its dominion4 ,in its water we wash away our impurities1 and burn out our solicitudes in its fire4 ,the man who has looked only on its chafing dish will say1 #8,fie upon the ,wine and the ,wine ,vats4'0 ,coffee won the day4 ,there is1 however1 another story of its introduction--how in the far-off past a poor dervish1 who lived in the deserts of ,arabia1 noticed that his goats came home every evening in a state of hilarity4 ,unable to account for this1 he watched them1 and found them feeding on the blossoms and berries of a tree which he had never before noticed4 ,he experimented upon himself by eating them1 and soon became as jocund as his goats1 so much so1 that he was accused of having partaken of the accursed juice of the grape4 ,but he soon convinced his maligners that the source of his high spirits was harmless1 and they1 tasting1 became converts1 and the berry became of general use4 ,from ,abyssinia1 the use of coffee spread to ,persia and ,arabia1 thence to ,aden1 ,mecca1 ,cairo1 ,damascus1 ,aleppo and ,constantinople1 whence it found its way to ,venice in #afae4 ,but it is hard to say exactly when its use was introduced into ,england4 ,robert ,burton mentions it in his ,anatomy of ,melancholy1 but not in the #afba edition4 ,he says1#adb 8,the ,turks have a drink called ,coffee 7for they use no wine71 so named of a berry1 as black as soot1 and as bitter 7like that black drink which was in use among the ,lacedmonians1 and perhaps the same71 which they sip still of1 and sup as warm as they can suffer2 they spend much time in those coffee houses1 which are somewhat like our alehouses or taverns1 and there they sit1 chatting and drinking1 to drive away the time1 and to be merry together1 because they find by experience that kind of drink1 so used1 helpeth digestion1 and procureth alacrity40 ,anthony ,wood says that the first coffee-house was kept in #afej in ,oxford1 by ,jacobs1 a ,jew2 and it seems generally recognised that the first coffee-house in ,london was opened in ,st4 ,michael's ,alley1 ,cornhill1 in #afeb1 by one ,pasqua ,rosee1 a ,greek1 servant to ,mr4 ,edwards1 a ,turkey merchant4 ,in 8,a ,broadside against ,,coffee1 or the ,marriage of the ,turk0 7#afgb71 he is thus mentioned3-- 8,a ,coachman was the first 7here7 ,coffee made1 ,and ever since the rest drive on the trade2 ,me no good ,engalash6 and sure enough1 ,he plaid the ,quack to salve his ,stygian stuff2 ,ver boon for de stomach1 de ,cough1 de ,ptisick1 ,and ,i believe him1 for it looks like ,physick40 ,here is ,rosee's handbill3-- 8,,the ,,vertue ,,of ,,the ,,coffee ,,drink4 8,first publiquely made and sold in ,england1 by ,pasqua ,rosee4 8,the grain or berry called ,coffee1 groweth upon little ,trees1 only in the ,deserts of ,arabia4 8,it is brought from thence1 and drunk generally throughout all the ,grand ,seignior's ,dominions4 8,it is a simple innocent thing1 composed into a ,drink1 by being dryed in an ,oven1 and ground to ,powder1 and boiled up with ,spring water1 and about half a pint of it to be drunk1 fasting an hour before1 and not ,eating an hour after1 and to be taken as hot as possibly can be endured2 the which will never fetch the skin off the mouth1 or raise any ,blisters1 by reason of that ,heat4 8,the ,turks drink at ,meals and other times1 is usually ,water1 and their ,dyet consists much of ,fruit2 the ,crudities whereof are very much corrected by this ,drink4 8,the quality of this ,drink is ,cold and ,dry2 and though it be a ,dryer1 yet it neither heats1 nor inflames more than hot ,posset4 8,it so closeth the ,orifice of the ,stomack1 and fortifies the heat within1 that it's very good to help digestion2 and therefore of great use to be taken about #c or #d o'clock afternoon1 as well as in the morning4 8,it much quickens the ,spirits1 and makes the ,heart ,lightsome4 8,it is good against sore ,eys1 and the better if you hold your ,head over it1 and take in the ,steem that way4 8,it suppresseth ,fumes exceedingly1 and therefore good against the ,head-ach1 and will very much stop any ,defluxion of ,rheums that distil from the ,head upon the ,stomack1 and so prevent and help ,consumptions1 and the ,cough of the ,lungs4 8,it is excellent to prevent and cure the ,dropsy1 ,gout and ,scurvy4 8,it is known by experience to be better than any other ,drying ,drink for ,people in years1 or ,children that have any running humors upon them1 as the ,king's ,evil1 etc4 8,it is very good to prevent ,mis-carryings in ,child-bearing ,women4 8,it is a most excellent remedy against the ,spleen1 ,hypocondriack ,winds1 or the like4 8,it will prevent ,drowsiness1 and make one fit for busines1 if one have occasion to ,watch2 and therefore you are not to drink of it after ,supper1 unless you intend to be watchful1 for it will hinder sleep for three or four hours4 8,it is observed that in ,turkey1 where this is generally drunk1 that they are not trobled with the ,stone1 ,gout1 ,dropsie1 or ,scurvey1 and that their ,skins are exceeding cleer and white4 8,it is neither ,laxative nor ,restringente4 8,made and ,sold in ,st4 ,michael's ,alley in ,cornhill1 by ,pasqua ,rosee1 at the ,signe of his own ,head40 ,that it met with opposition at its introduction1 we have already seen in 8,a ,broadside against ,coffee20 but ,hatton1 in his 8,new ,view of ,london10 #agjh1 gives a case of clear persecution4 8,i find it ,recorded that one ,james ,farr1 a barber1 who kept the ,coffee ,house which is now the ,rainbow1 was1 in the year #afeg1 presented by the ,inquest of ,st4 ,dunstan's in the ,w4 for ,making and ,selling a sort of ,liquor1 called ,coffee1 as a great ,nusance and ,prejudice of the neighbourhood1 etc4 ,and who would then have thought ,london would ever have had near #cjjj such ,nusances1 and that ,coffee should have been1 as now1 so much ,drank by the best of ,quality and ,physicians40#adc ,illustration ,the coffee houses soon became popular1 because they filled a social want4 ,there were no clubs1 as we know them1 although there were limited social gatherings1 under the name of club1 held at stated periods--and the coffee house provided a convenient place for gossip and news4 ,here were served alcoholic drinks as well as coffee2 here the newspapers might be seen2 here1 also1 men could indulge in a pipe1 and its advantages are well summed up by ,misson1#add who travelled in ,england in the reign of ,william and ,mary4 8,these ,houses1 which are very numerous in ,london1 are extreamly convenient4 ,you have all ,manner of ,news there2 ,you have a good ,fire1 which you may sit by as long as you please2 ,you have a dish of ,coffee1 you meet your ,friends for the ,transaction of ,business1 and all for a ,penny1 if you don't care to spend more40 8,,the ,,rules ,,and ,,orders ,,of ,,the ,,coffee-,,house4#ade 8,enter ,sirs1 freely1 ,but first1 if you please1 ,peruse our ,civil-,orders1 which are these4 8,first1 ,gentry1 ,tradesmen1 all are welcome hither1 ,and may1 without ,affront1 sit down ,together3 ,pre-eminence of ,place1 none here should ,mind1 ,but take the next fit ,seat that he can find3 ,nor need any1 if ,finer ,persons come1 ,rise up for to assigne to them his ,room2 ,to limit ,men's ,expence1 we think not fair1 ,but let him forfeit ,twelve pence that shall ,swear2 ,he that shall any ,quarrel here begin1 ,shall give each ,man a ,dish t' ,atone the ,sin2 ,and so shall he1 whose ,complements extend ,so far to drink in ,,coffee to his ,friend2 ,let ,noise of loud ,disputes be quite forborn1 ,no ,maudlin ,lovers here in ,corners ,mourn3 ,but all be ,brisk1 and ,talk1 but not too much2 ,on ,sacred things1 ,let none presume to touch1 ,nor ,profane ,scripture1 or sawcily wrong ,affairs of ,state with an ,irreverent ,tongue3 ,let mirth be ,innocent1 and each ,man see1 ,that all his ,jests without ,reflection be2 ,to keep the ,house more ,quiet1 and from ,blame1 ,we ,banish hence ,cards1 ,dice and every ,game3 ,nor can allow of ,wagers1 that ,exceed ,five ,shillings1 which1 oft-times1 much ,trouble ,breed2 ,let all that's ,lost or ,forfeited be spent ,in such ,good ,liquor as the ,house doth ,vent1 ,and ,customers endeavour to their ,powers1 ,for to observe still seasonable ,howers4 ,lastly1 ,let each ,man what he calls for ,pay1 ,and so you're welcome to come every ,day40 ,to know of coffee-houses in their prime1 we must turn to the pages of ,addison and ,steele1 to the ,guardian1 the ,spectator1 the ,tatler1 etc41 but they are well epitomised in the following poem1 which bears date #affg3-- 8,,news ,,from ,,the ,,coffee-,,house4 8,in which is shewn their several sorts of ,passions1 ,containing ,newes from all our ,neighbour ,nations4 8,a ,,poem4 8,you that delight in ,wit and ,mirth1 ,and long to hear such ,news1 ,as comes from all ,parts of the ,earth1 ,dutch1 ,danes1 and ,turks1 and ,jews1 ,i'le send yee to a ,rendezvouz1 ,where it is smoaking new2 ,go1 hear it at a ,coffee-house1 ,it cannot but be true4 ,there ,battles and ,sea-,fights are ,fought1 ,and bloudy ,plots display'd2 ,they know more things than 'ere was thought ,or ever was betray'd3 ,no ,money in the ,minting ,house ,is halfe so ,bright and ,new2 ,and1 comming from a ,coffee-,house ,it cannot but be true4 ,before the ,navyes fall to ,work1 ,they know who shall be ,winner2 ,they there can tell ye what the ,turk ,last ,sunday had to ,dinner2 ,who last did cut ,du ,ruitter's ,corns1 ,amongst his jovial ,crew2 ,or ,who first gave the ,devil ,horns4 ,which cannot but be true4 ,a ,fisherman did boldly tell1 ,and strongly did avouch1 ,he ,caught a ,shoal of ,mackarel1 ,that ,parley'd all in ,dutch1 ,and cry'd out1 ,yaw1 yaw1 yaw1 ,myne ,here2 ,but as the ,draught they ,drew1 ,they ,struck for fear that ,monck was there1 ,which cannot but be true4 ,another ,swears by both his ,ears1 ,mounsieur will cut our ,throats2 ,the ,french ,king will a ,girdle bring1 ,made of ,flat-bottom'd ,boats2 ,shall compas ,england round about1 ,which must not be a few1 ,to give our ,englishmen the ,rout2 ,this sounds as if 'twere true4 ,there's nothing done in all the ,world1 ,from ,monarch to the ,mouse1 ,but every ,day or ,night 'tis hurl'd ,into the ,coffee-house4 ,what ,lillie or what ,booker can ,by ,art1 not bring about ,at ,coffee-house you'l find a ,man1 ,can quickly find it out4 ,they'l tell ye there1 what ,lady-ware1 ,of late is grown too light2 ,what ,wise-man shall from ,favour ,fall1 ,what ,fool shall be a ,knight2 ,they'l tell ye when our ,fayling ,trade ,shall ,rise again1 and ,flourish1 ,or when ,jack ,adams shall be made ,church-,warden of the ,parish4 ,they know who shall in ,times to come1 ,be either made or undone1 ,from great ,st4 ,peter's-street in ,rome1 ,to ,turnbull-street in ,london4 ,and likewise tell1 in ,clerkenwell1 ,what w hath greatest ,gain1 ,and in that place1 what ,brazen-face ,doth wear a ,golden ,chain4 ,at ,sea their knowledge is so much1 ,they know all ,rocks and ,shelves1 ,they know all ,councils of the ,dutch1 ,more than they know ,themselves4 ,who 'tis shall get the best at last1 ,they perfectly can shew ,at ,coffee-house1 when they are plac'd ,you'd scarce believe it true4 ,they know all that is ,good1 or ,hurt1 ,to ,dam ye1 or to ,save ye2 ,there is the ,colledge and the ,court1 ,the ,country1 ,camp1 and ,navie2 ,so great a ,vniversitie ,i think there ne're was any2 ,in which you may a ,schoolar be ,for spending of a ,penny4 ,a ,merchant's ,prentice there shall show ,you all and every thing1 ,what hath been done1 and is to do1 ',twix ,holland and the ,king2 ,what ,articles of ,peace will bee ,he can precisely show1 ,what will be good for ,them or ,wee1 ,he perfectly doth know4 ,here ,men do talk of every ,thing1 ,with large and liberal ,lungs1 ,like ,women at a ,gossiping1 ,with double tyre of ,tongues2 ,they'l give a ,broad-side presently1 ,soon as you are in view1 ,with ,stories that you'l wonder at1 ,which they will swear are true4 ,the ,drinking there of ,chockolat1 ,can make a ,fool a ,sophie1 ',tis thought the ,turkish ,mahomet ,was first ,inspir'd with ,coffee3 ,by which his ,powers did ,over-flow ,the ,land of ,palestine2 ,then let us to the ,coffee-house go1 ',tis ,cheaper farr than ,wine4 ,you shall know there1 what ,fashions are2 ,how ,perrywiggs are ,curl'd2 ,and for a ,penny you shall heare ,all ,novells in the ,world4 ,both ,old and ,young1 and ,great and ,small1 ,and ,rich and ,poore1 you'll see2 ,therefore let's to the ,coffee all1 ,come ,all away with ,mee4 ,finis40 ,j4 ,a4 ,illustration ,different ,sorts of ,coffee--,its ,enemies--,its ,composition and ,treatment--,methods of ,making--,adulterations--,liberian ,coffee--,date ,coffee and other ,substitutes4 ,there are about twenty-two species of coffee1 seven of them belonging to ,asia1 and fifteen to ,africa1 where it grows in districts widely apart1 as in ,angola and on the shores of the ,victoria ,nyanza2 yet1 although it is so widely disseminated1 and comes from so many different places1 it is getting commercially dearer without any present prospect of any reduction4 ,its value in the market is as follows--the first being the highest1 and the last the lowest in price4 ,mocha1 ,jamaica1 ,ceylon1 ,honduras1 ,mysore1 ,costa ,rica1 ,guatemala1 ,brazil1 ,new ,grenada1 and divers ,east ,indian growths2 and its consumption per head in ,europe1 ranks thus3 ,holland1 ,denmark1 ,germany1 ,belgium1 ,norway1 ,switzerland1 ,sweden1 ,france1 ,austria1 ,greece1 ,great ,britain1 ,italy and ,russia4 ,unfortunately the coffee plant has its enemies1 in the shape of two fungi which have devastated the plantations of ,ceylon and ,mysore1 one the ,hemileia ,vastata1 and the other the ,pellicularia ,kolerota1 whilst an insect called the coffee bug 7,lecanium ,coffe7 causes great destruction1 as does also the coffee1 or ,golunda rat4 ,indeed1 these enemies so prevailed in ,ceylon as to render coffee growing not only unprofitable1 but almost impossible1 so the planters took to growing tea1 with the good results which we have seen4 ,raw coffee has very little scent1 and a bitter taste1 and no one would credit it with the delicious aroma which is developed--like the tea leaf--by roasting1 an operation which increases the bulk of the berry1 whilst diminishing its weight4 ,its commercial value is in proportion to its aroma2 and it is found that1 by keeping the raw berry1 a chemical change takes place1 which very much improves inferior qualities4 ,but this aroma is extremely volatile1 and ground coffee should be kept in scrupulously air-tight cases4 ,indeed1 so fugitive is it1 that coffee to be drank in perfection should be made from berries roasted freshly every day1 as is frequently done in ,france4 ,raw coffee contains an astringent acid1 which does not stain iron black1 like that of tea1 but green2 and it also embodies ,theine1 or1 as it is called when applied to coffee1 ,caffeine4 ,this alkaloid does not exist in large quantities as in tea1 i4e41 the drinker of an equal number of cups of both beverages would have less of the alkaloid if coffee was drunk4 ,the berries1 when roasted1 and their flavour developed1 are ground--coarse or fine according to taste1 and are then ready to be made into a drink4 ,it is here1 in conjunction with the use of stale1 and consequently1 tasteless coffee1 that we1 in ,england1 go to grief4 ,of coffee-making machines there are numbers2 but if pure coffee is used1 they might as well be dispensed with1 whilst they are almost necessary if the coffee is adulterated4 ,another thing that our ,english housekeepers do not understand is1 that coffee1 in order to be productive of a good result1 should be used large-handedly and generously1 and not according to the time-honoured1 grandmotherly1 but parsimonious method applied to tea1 of a teaspoonful for each person and one for the pot4 ,the allowance of freshly ground coffee should be from #a to #b oz4 per pint of water1 and any less does not make coffee1 but only 8water bewitched40 ,with this quantity excellent coffee can be made without the aid of any machine4 ,warm the coffee pot1 or jug1 put in the coffee1 and then add the water1 which1 as with tea1 should just have come to the boil1 and after standing a little time1 the coffee is fit to drink4 ,if the coffee is boiled1 the extremely volatile aroma is dissipated1 and its exquisite flavour lost4 ,but a good way of making coffee is to make it over night4 ,put the coffee in a jug1 and pour cold water on it4 ,the lighter particles soon get soaked and fall to the bottom4 ,in the morning it has only to be warmed until it just boils1 when it should be strained and served at once4 ,this only applies to pure coffee4 ,there are too many adulterants used1 and what 8,french ,coffee0 and 8,coffee as in ,france0 is made of1 the ,lord and their manufacturers only know4 ,the chief of these offenders in ,england is the root of the succory1 chicory1 or wild endive 7,cichorium ,intybus71 which1 originally wild1 is now extensively cultivated in ,england2 whilst on the ,continent it is very largely grown in ,france1 ,germany1 ,belgium1 and ,holland1 and both home-grown and foreign chicory are largely in our market1 the latter fetching the higher price4 ,it does not taste like coffee1 nor has it any aroma2 but1 when roasted1 it gives a dark colour to water1 and a bitter taste1 as if a great deal of coffee had been used2 and for this purpose it must have been first used in the old coffee-houses4 ,but it is a question whether you buy pure roasted and ground chicory4 ,in ,germany it is adulterated largely with turnips and carrots1 whilst ,venetian red is used to give it a colour4 ,notice has already been made of the different kinds of coffee1 but not the ,west ,african species--the ,liberian coffee 7,coffea ,liberica7--which has not1 as yet1 come into common use in ,england4 ,there are many substitutes for coffee1 one of which developed a few years since into a large commercial undertaking1 but eventually collapsed4 ,it was ,date ,coffee1 made out of date stones roasted and ground4 ,among other substances used in lieu of coffee1 are the roasted seeds of the yellow water-lily 7,iris pseudocorus72 the seeds of a ,goumelia1 called in ,turkey ,keuguel2 roasted acorns and beans1 chick peas1 rye and other grains1 nuts1 almonds1 and dandelion roots 7,leontodon taraxacum71 whilst in ,africa many berries are used in its stead4 ,j4 ,a4 ,illustration ,,cocoa4 ,where ,cocoa is ,grown--,its ,manufacture--,its ,use ,abroad and in ,england--,cocoa as a ,drink--,chocolate1 ,edible and ,otherwise--,substitutes for ,cocoa4 ,linnus was so fond of the drink made from the seeds of this plant that he gave it the name of ,cacao ,theobroma1 or 8,food of the ,gods40 ,as a drink it cannot be classed among the infusions1 like tea1 nor is it roasted and ground to powder like coffee2 but the seeds are crushed and mealed in a mill1 and from this oily meal is made the thin gruel which we drink as cocoa4 ,it seems to have been originally a native of ,mexico1 and is now cultivated there1 in ,honduras1 ,guatemala1 ,nicaragua1 ,brazil1 ,peru1 ,ecuador1 ,new ,granada1 ,venezuela1 ,guiana1 and most of the ,west ,india ,islands4 ,commercially the different sorts rank in value as follow3 ,trinidad1 ,caraccas1 ,grenada1 ,guayaquil1 ,surinam1 ,bahia1 ,ceylon1 and ,british ,west ,indies4 ,it grows1 as we see in the illustration1 somewhat like a melon1 which contains some fifty or more seeds1 in rows embedded in a spongy substance1 from which the seeds are cleansed and then dried in the sun1 when it becomes brittle and of a dark colour internally1 eating like an oily nut1 but with a decidedly bitter and somewhat astringent taste4 ,to render it fit for food1 it is gently roasted to develop the aroma1 allowed to cool1 deprived of its husk1 and then crushed into small fragments called cocoa nibs1 which is the purest form in which it is used1 but also the one which entails the greatest trouble in making a drink therefrom4 ,the granulated1 rock1 flake1 and soluble cocoas are made by the beans being ground into a paste in a rolling mill2 starch1 flour1 sugar1 and other ingredients being used1 according to the taste of different manufacturers4 ,it was used by the ,mexicans and ,peruvians before their conquest by the ,spaniards1 and formed an article of barter among them4 ,columbus brought a knowledge of it to ,europe2 but those were not the days of non-alcoholic drinks1 and it was some time before it came into vogue4 ,naturally1 first of all in ,spain1 and to this day ,spain is the greatest ,european consumer of cocoa in some shape or other4 ,it was introduced into ,england about the same time as tea and coffee1 but the chocolate houses1 pure and simple1 as such1 were very few compared to the coffee houses4 ,it was taxed as a drink by the same ,acts as tea1 and paid the same duty4 ,in the eighteenth century it became a fashionable morning drink1 especially for ladies1 and is perpetually alluded to by the essayists2 but it was so expensive as to be only a drink for the upper classes4 ,illustration3 ,,chocolate ,,drinking4 ,cocoa as a drink is far more nutritious than either tea or coffee1 and like those two substances it has a volatile oil which gives the delicious aroma1 and an active principle resembling ,theine or ,caffeine--but not identical with them--called ,theobromine4 ,it has no tannic acid1 but it has what the other two do not possess1 it has a peculiar fatty matter1 known as cocoa butter1 which sometimes amounts to half the contents of the seed4 ,it is this excess of fat which renders it liable to disagree with some susceptible stomachs1 but the mixture of farinaceous matter and sugar tend in a great measure to obviate this inconvenience4 ,in another method of manufacture it is known as ,chocolate1 which is simply the cocoa bean ground and flavoured with sugar1 vanilla1 almonds1 cinnamon1 or what not1 according to taste4 ,it is in a dry form the most popular of sweetmeats1 although the adulterations practised by low class firms1 in order to sell a cheap article1 are many1 owing to its high price2 yet the goods of first-rate firms like ,menier1 ,fry1 ,cadbury1 and others1 may be taken without suspicion1 and are--good666 ,there are pseudo cocoas1 as there are pseudo coffees and teas4 ,the ,guarana1 or ,brazilian ,cocoa 7,paullina sorbilis72 a ground nut1 the ,arachis hypogeia1 used in ,south ,carolina1 ,angola1 and elsewhere2 the ,cyperus esculentus1 or earth chestnut1 in ,spain1 are the chief substitutes2 but it is needless to say that none compare with the ,,theobroma4 ,alas6 that it should be adulterated4 ,j4 ,a4 ,illustration ,illustration ,a,,rated ,,drinks4 ,ginger ,beer--,old and ,new ,methods of ,manufacture--,lemonade--,chemicals in ,non-,alcoholic ,drinks--,fruit ,syrups--,non-,alcoholic ,cordials and ,liquors--,natural ,mineral ,waters--,their ,constituents--,artificial ,arated ,waters--,their ,introduction into ,england--,manufacture4 ,popular among non-intoxicant drinks is the homely ,ginger ,beer1 so dearly beloved of thirsty holiday makers and small children2 dear also to the boating man in connection with good ale1 as 8,shandy-gaff40 ,and the stone bottle1 in which it used generally to be encased1 is familiar to every reader4 ,we say1 advisedly1 used1 because now-a-days it is also put up in glass bottles2 nay1 it is sold in casks1 like beer1 to the publicans and others4 ,the probability is that1 in the old days1 its somewhat murky colour would not bear inspection through bright glass4 ,the old ginger beer1 whose flavour cannot be approached by the modern decoctions1 was made of ,jamaica ginger macerated in water1 with the addition of lemon juice and sugar4 ,it was allowed to ferment1 and possessed decided traces of alcohol4 ,it was made after this fashion3-- ,take #a ounce of best ,jamaica ginger1 and crush thoroughly with a hammer or suitable crushing machine2 boil gently for about an hour in about a quart of water1 then add #a lb4 of best loaf sugar1 and make up to a gallon with hot water2 stir until all is dissolved4 ,add a small quantity of the soluble essence of lemon1 and gum extract1 the quantity to be regulated to taste of the maker4 ,then stir in ounce of tartaric acid1 and1 if required for quick fermentation1 a very small quantity of yeast4 ,the beer should fine down perfectly clear1 and should then be bottled4 ,in from one to three weeks time it is ready for drinking1 and should keep good about six months4 ,this was the old fashion--now for the new4#adf ,plain ,syrup1 from #ef to #fj ,t4#adg #c quarts ,boiling ,water #a quart ,oil of ,lemon #bd minims ,acetic ,acid #d fluid ounces ,ginger ,tincture 7#ba1 #bb1 or #bc71 ,q4,s4#adh ,use #a to #a ounce of the flavoured spirit to each bottle4 ,first incorporate the lemon oil with #a quart of the thick syrup4 7,if the oil contains a large proportion of insoluble matter1 it may be well to use rather less than #a quart of syrup in the first place47 ,then add the boiling water1 and1 after that1 the remaining syrup2 taking care to keep the mixture constantly agitated during the process4 ,lastly1 add the acid1 and ginger tincture according to taste1 or the requirements of the public analyst4 ,by adding boiling syrup instead of boiling water to the mixture of plain syrup and oil of lemon1 and subsequently adding the required quantity of cold water1 the whole operation will be brought more thoroughly under control1 and a larger proportion of oil may be employed without waste4 ,with some samples of the oil1 it may be necessary to heat a larger portion of the syrup2 but the oil should always be mixed with cold1 thick syrup in the first place1 unless a perfectly close1 air-tight vessel is provided for mixing2 in this case1 hot1 thick syrup may be poured on the oil1 cold water being subsequently added to give the requisite density4 ,when it is required to incorporate a maximum quantity of lemon oil with the syrup1 it should first be whisked into the whole of the thick syrup cold2 the flavoured syrup should then be carefully heated by means of a steam jacket1 or other convenient arrangement1 until the suspended oil is reduced to a state of solution4 ,the syrup will then be transparent4 ,let it be cooled again as quickly as possible4 ,gingerade4 ,plain ,syrup1 #db ,t4#adi #a gallon ,ginger ,tincture 7,no4 #ba or #bb7 #d fluid ounces ,acetic ,acid #d 0 ,bitter ,orange ,tincture1 ,q4,s4 ,use #a to #a ounce of flavoured syrup to each bottle4 ,ginger ,ale is a beverage supposed to beguile the artless teetotaller into an idea that he is doing something naughty1 or at all events1 placing himself on the very verge of tampering with the accursed thing 8,beer40 ,hence its name1 but what a difference in the two drinks6 ,here are two receipts for making ,ginger ,ale4 ,plain ,syrup1 #db ,t4 #a gallon ,comp4 ,ginger ,tincture 7,no4 #bc7 #d fluid ounces ,acetic ,acid #d 0 ,sugar ,colouring 0 ,or ,plain ,syrup1 #db ,t4 #a gallon ,ginger ,tincture 7,no4 #ba or #bb7 #d fluid ounces ,capsicum ,tincture 7,no4 #bd7 #a 0 ,sugar ,colouring 0 ,use #a to #a ounce of flavoured syrup to each bottle4 ,if desired1 the bouquet may be enriched by the use of one or more of the following ingredients3-- ,essence of ,vanilla #c drams 7#ahj minims7 per gallon ,butyric ,ether #d minims 0 ,otto of ,roses 0 0 ,half an ounce of ,spanish liquorice to the gallon will considerably improve the flavour4 ,lemonade4 ,plain ,syrup1 #db ,t4 #a gallon ,lemon ,tincture 7,no4 #ai7 #d fluid ounces ,acetic ,acid #d to #e 0 ,use #a ounce of flavoured syrup to each bottle4 ,when lemonade is required specially for medicinal purposes1 and is sold expressly as a genuine fruit preparation1 citric acid should be employed instead of acetic4 ,in that case dissolve #a lb4 of citric acid in a pint of boiling water1 and use #d fluid ounces of the clear solution to each gallon of syrup4 ,some manufacturers have attained a high reputation for their lemonade by adding a small quantity of ,neroli#aej to the ordinary syrup4 ,this1 if judiciously used1 will doubtless be deemed an improvement by connoisseurs generally1 provided they are kept in ignorance of the substance employed2 but a still greater improvement is produced by adding about #a fluid ounce of good orange flower water to each gallon of syrup4 ,in the next beverage we are perilously tempting the fiend ,alcohol1 although it ranks as a ,temperance drink4 ,champagne ,cyder4 ,plain ,syrup1 #db ,t4 #a gallon ,butyrate of ,ethyl#aea #d minims ,acetate of ,amyl#aeb #d 0 ,nitrate of ,amyl #b 0 ,acetic ,acid #d or #e fluid ounces ,sugar ,colouring #a 0 ,use #a to #a fluid ounces of this syrup to each bottle4 ,but here is a direction which plainly shows the cloven hoof4 8,the ,ethyl and ,amyl compounds are conveniently used by mixing them separately in the first place with nine times their bulk of ,alcohol1 or strong rectified spirit1 adding these mixtures to the ,acetic ,acid1 and this in turn to the syrup40 ,at every turn1 in all these drinks1 are chemicals used4 ,do you want the flavour of the luscious ,jargonelle pear8 hey1 presto6 ,there it is for you in a spirituous solution of ,acetate of ,amyl1 made by distilling potato spirit with ,oil of ,vitrol and ,acetate of ,potash1 at least this gives a fine fruity flavour1 but to bring out the true ,jargonelle taste it must be mixed with six times its bulk of spirits of wine 7,mem4 for ,teetotallers74 ,the taste of apples can be counterfeited by mixing ,amylic ,ether 7potato ether7 and ,valerianic ,acid1 which latter is made by substituting ,bichromate of ,potash for ,acetate of ,potash1 and largely added ,alcohol4 ,the delicious aroma of the ,pine-apple is made from ,butyric ,acid1 mixed with ordinary ether1 and dissolved in ,alcohol4 ,indeed with compounds of the ,ethyls1 ,methyls1 and ,amyls1 all the bouquets contained in wines or spirits can be obtained4#aec ,does your chemical compound look flat and dull when poured out8 lo6 you can produce a 8head10 or froth1 made out of isinglass1 gum arabic1 gelatine1 white of egg1 ,irish moss1 or soapwort4 ,the latter gives an excellent head2 but as these frothing mixtures detract from the keeping of the chemical drink1 yet another chemical has to be used as an antiseptic1 and ,salicylic ,acid1 made from ,carbolic ,acid1 is recommended4 ,do you want to colour your decoctions8 ,there is a wide range of tints for you to choose from1 from the harmless burnt sugar to the ,acetate of ,rosaniline1 or ,aniline ,magenta1 of which #a_/cjth of a grain will colour a bottleful1 a beautiful red4 ,for the fruit syrups1 fruits are very often used1 but of course not necessarily4 ,even milk is not sacred from the chemist4 ,here are two recipes for making ,cream ,syrup3-- ,no4 #a4 ,fresh ,cream pint ,fresh ,milk 0 ,powdered ,sugar #a pound ,another formula3-- ,no4 #b4 ,oil of ,sweet ,almonds #b ounces ,powdered ,gum ,arabic #b 0 ,water #d 0 ,make an emulsion1 and add simple syrup to make up #b pints1 and there you are1 thoroughly independent of the cow6 ,in these syrupy mixtures the ,americans run riot1 and a few years since many shops1 notably druggists1 sold strange and curious frothing mixtures2 but there was no call for them in the winter1 and they died out as suddenly as they were introduced4 ,the following is a fair list of syrups1 some of which1 however1 are decidedly exciseable4 ,ambrosia1 ,apple1 ,apricot1 ,banana1 ,blackberry1 ,brandy1 ,capillaire1 ,cherry1 ,chocolate1 ,citron1 ,clove1 ,coffee1 ,cream1 ,curaoa1 ,currant 7black or red71 ,ginger1 ,grape1 ,groseille1 ,gum1 ,lemon1 ,limes1 ,mulberry1 ,nectar1 ,nectarine1 ,noyeau1 ,orange 7bitter71 ,orange 7sweet71 ,orange 7,tangerine71 ,orgeat1 ,peach1 ,pear1 ,peppermint1 ,pine-apple1 ,plum1 ,quince1 ,raspberry1 ,roses1 ,sarsaparilla1 ,sherbet1 ,strawberry1 ,vanilla1 ,violets4 ,and here is a list of ,non-,alcoholic ,cordials and ,liqueurs 7non-exciseable71 it is said2 but if so1 they must be fearfully and wonderfully made4 ,anisette1 ,bitters1 ,caraway1 ,cherry ,brandy1 ,clove1 ,curaoa1 ,elderette1 ,fettle1 ,ginger ,brandy1 ,ginger ,cordial1 ,ginger ,gin1 ,ginger ,punch1 ,gingerette1 ,lemon ,punch1 ,lime ,fruit1 ,nectar ,punch1 ,noyeau1 ,orange ,bitters1 ,orange ,gin1 ,peppermint1 ,pepper ,punch1 ,pick-me-up1 ,raspberry1 ,raspberry ,punch1 ,rum ,punch1 ,rum ,shrub1 ,sarsaparilla1 ,shrub1 ,spiced ,ale1 ,strawberry1 ,tangerine1 ,tonic1 ,winter ,punch4 ,but enough of these chemical concoctions of man2 let us go to ,nature1 and see what she turns out of her laboratory4 ,most marvellous combinations of ,minerals1 ,acids1 ,gases1 and ,water4 ,among the ,minerals may be named ,alumina1 ,arsenic1 ,barium1 ,boron1 ,bromine1 ,csium1 ,calcium1 ,copper1 ,fluorine1 ,iodine1 ,iron1 ,lithium1 ,magnesium1 ,manganese1 ,phosphorus1 ,potassium1 ,rubidium1 ,silicon1 ,sodium1 ,strontium1 ,sulphur1 ,zinc1 etc4 ,and of ,gases we have ,ammonia1 ,carbonic ,acid1 ,hydrogen1 ,hydro-,sulphuric1 ,nitrogen1 and ,oxygen4 ,these materials are mixed in very varying amounts1 and from very valuable medical agencies1 from the purgative ,friedrichshall1 to the nauseous ,harrogate4 ,but all are not nasty3 some are just sufficiently alkaline to be tasty1 and1 having a briskness imparted to them either naturally1 or otherwise1 by carbonic acid1 make pleasant drinks for table4 ,these simple waters are abundant on the ,continent4 ,in ,germany we have the well-known ,apollinaris1 ,selters1 ,landskro1 ,brckenau1 ,roisdorf1 ,gieshbel1 and ,heppingen1 whilst in ,france there are those of ,st4 ,galmier1 ,chateldon1 and ,pougues1 besides some in ,italy and many in ,america4 ,these1 especially the medical waters1 are imported into ,england2 but mineral waters are largely manufactured4 ,by mineral waters ,i do not mean the arated waters we drink under the names of ,soda1 and ,seltzer1 but the medicinal waters4 ,the effervescing1 or arated waters1 which are now so much used all over the civilized world1 were first made on a large commercial scale by the firm of ,j4 ,schweppe1 of ,geneva 7a name very well known in ,england1 in connection with the manufacture71 in #aghi2 and ten years afterwards1 his partner1 ,mr4 ,n4 ,paul 7whose name yet survives in the firm ,paul ,burrows1 ,st4 ,george's ,road1 ,s4,e471 established an ,arated ,water ,factory in ,england4 ,it is somewhat curious how the names last in this trade1 for in #agii a ,mr4 ,thwaites established a factory in ,dublin1 and the firm still remains as ,a4 ,r4 ,thwaites ,co4 ,since its introduction1 arated water has much improved1 especially the universal soda water1 which is simply ordinary water charged with carbonic acid gas4 ,vastly improved machinery has been introduced1 cleanliness and purity of materials are specially looked after1 and the bottles and vessels for holding it wonderfully improved4 ,we have not1 in ,england1 taken so kindly to the syphon as they have abroad2 but the cork in the bottle has been nearly entirely done away with1 and we are no longer compelled to pay for1 if we could not drink1 the large bottle1 which at one time bid fair to be perennial2 but which has almost succumbed to its younger brother the 8,small0 ,soda4 ,year by year1 through competition and vastly increased consumption1 arated waters are getting cheaper1 and consequently more used4 ,the ordinary soda water of commerce contains no soda1--it is made by the absorption1 under pressure1 of carbonic acid gas1 which is generally obtained from chalk or whitening1 and sulphuric acid1 which makes as good a gas for commercial purposes as if it were produced from the purest ,carrara marble4 ,the number of chemical teetotal drinks is legion4 ,they are all calculated according to their concocter's reports1 to make the drinker healthier and wiser2 nay1 even to provide him with extra brain power1 as did the vaunted ,zoedone1 which contained phosphates and iron4 ,they have their little day1 and another nostrum takes their place4 ,it has1 hitherto1 always been so1 and probably will continue1 only intensified1 to the end of time4 ,j4 ,a4 ,illustration ,illustration ,,milk4 ,first ,food of all ,mammals--,skim and ,butter ,milk--,chemicals used in its ,preservation--,condensed ,milk--,syllabubs--,koumiss--,its ,early ,use--,when first utilized in ,medical ,treatment--,koumiss from ,cows' ,milk--,methods of ,manufacture--,intoxicating ,drinks made from ,milk4 ,milk is the first liquid food taken by man1 in common with all mammals1 after his birth2 and this liquid is so happily ordered1 as to contain all the elements of food necessary for him1 at this period of his existence4 ,the new-born mammal naturally1 and directly after its birth1 seeks the fountain of its nourishment1 and even that most helpless of all created beings1 a baby1 is soon taught where to seek its food4 ,but we have to consider milk as a beverage1 more than as a food1 and1 as a drink1 it is comparatively a failure1 as to most people it is indigestible1 if taken in any quantity4 ,it may1 however1 be taken with comparative impunity as skim milk1 i4e4 when deprived to a very large extent of its fat1 and of a hot day1 for a perfect thirst quencher1 let us commend slightly acidulated butter milk4 ,milk has very great disadvantages as a beverage3 first1 that it will not keep good any time1 unless chemicalized by salicylic acid1 borax1 liquor potass1 or some other bedevilment1 except as condensed milk1 which is milk with much of its water evaporated1 and sugar added4 ,this1 however good it may be as a substitute for fresh cow's milk1 where such is not attainable1 can hardly be called a drink4 ,secondly1 milk1 in common with all fatty animal substances1 has a tendency to absorb any odour which may come in contact with it1 and is a ready vehicle for the seeds of disease1 especially the microbes of fever or cholera4 ,it is singular that milk has not been made into more drinks4 ,of modern times we have soda and milk1 or arated milk and water1 and in the pastoral times of the last century1 the times of ,corydon and ,phyllis1 ,chloe and ,strephon1 it was de rigueur to indulge in 8syllabubs0 whenever the nearest approach to rurality1 in the shape of a grass field1 and a cow1 presented itself4 ,whoever tastes a syllabub now8 ,ask fifty people--forty-nine at least1 will answer that they have never partaken of the delicacy1 and the vast majority will be totally ignorant even of its composition4 ,it was made of milk1 milked from the cow into a bowl containing mashed fruit1 such as gooseberries1 and sugar1 or else1 wine or beer4 ,the great thing was to make it froth1 as we may see in the following recipe for an ,ale ,syllabub1 which our forefathers considered as the ne plus ultra of a syllabub4 8,no ,syllabubs made at the milking pail1 ,but what are composed of a pot of good ale40 8,place in a large bowl1 a quart of strong ale or beer1 grate into this a little nutmeg1 and sweeten with sugar3 milk the cow rapidly into the bowl1 forcing the milk as strongly as possible into the ale1 and against the sides of the vessel1 to raise a good froth4 ,let it stand an hour1 and it will be fit for use4 ,the proportion of milk1 or of sugar1 will depend upon the taste of the drinker1 who will1 after a trial or two1 be able to make a delightful beverage4 ,cider may be used instead of malt liquor for those who object to the alcoholic strength of the ale1 or a bottle of wine40 ,the ,dutch1 who are naturally a pastoral people1 make a syllabub of milk1 sugar1 etc41 which they call ,slemp2 but this rustic delicacy has died out owing to the universal use of tea and coffee4 ,curds and whey used to be much drank1 and white wine whey is not to be despised when one has a very heavy cold--but1 of course1 it can only be drank by the wicked and intemperate2 good people confining themselves to hot milk1 or treacle posset1 either of which served the purpose nearly as well4 ,so1 also1 the unregenerate have the solace of rum and milk in the early morning4 ,we have now exhausted all the milk drinks we know of1 except 8,koumiss10 which1 although as old as the hills1 is of very modern introduction into civilization1 and comes to us heralded by a fanfare of medical trumpets as a panacea for many evils which the human body has to bear1 especially consumption2 but ,koumiss is decidedly alcoholic4 ,illustration ,as a drink made from mare's milk1 it has been known for centuries to the ,tartars1 ,khurgese1 and ,calmucks of the ,russian ,steppes1 and ,central and ,south ,western ,asia4 ,perhaps the first mention of it may be found in the ,ipatof ,annals1 published at ,st4 ,petersburg1 #ahga4 8,in #aahb1 ,prince ,igor ,seversky was taken prisoner by the ,polovtsky1 and the captors got so drunk upon ,koumiss that they allowed their prisoner to escape40 ,the old monk and traveller ,gulielmus de ,rubruquis1 who travelled in ,tartary in the middle of the thirteenth century1 says3 8,the same evening1 the guide who had conducted us1 gave us some ,cosmos4 ,after ,i had drunk thereof1 ,i sweat most extremely from the dread and novelty1 because ,i never drank of it before4 ,notwithstanding ,i thought it very savoury as indeed it was40 ,and in another place1 he thus refers to it3 8,then they taste it1 and being pretty sharp1 they drink it2 for it biteth a man's tongue like wine of raspes1#aed when it is drunk4 ,after a man has taken a draught thereof1 it leaveth behind it a taste like that of almond milk1 and maketh one's inside feel very comfortable2 and it also intoxicateth weak heads40 ,ser ,marco ,polo speaks of it4 8,their drink is mare's milk1 prepared in such a way1 you would take it for a white wine2 and a right good drink it is1 called by them ,kemiz40 ,it remained as a traveller's curiosity until #aghd1 when ,dr4 ,john ,grieve1 a surgeon1 one of the many ,scotchmen who have from time to time entered the ,russian service1 wrote to the ,royal ,society of ,edinburgh 7who published his communication in their 8,transactions10 ,vol4 ,i41 #aghh74 8,an account of the ,method of making a ,wine1 called by the ,tartars ,koumiss1 with observations on its use in ,medicine10 and1 especially1 he thought that1 8with the superaddition of a fermented spirit1 it might be of essential service in all those disorders where the body is defective either in nourishment or strength40 ,and he further proved the benefit of the milk-wine on three patients1 two consumptive1 and one syphilitic1 sending them to the ,steppes among the ,tartars1 whence they returned stout1 and in perfect health4 ,from time to time1 until the middle of this century1 phthisical patients were sent to ,tartary to undergo this milk cure2 but life among these nomad tribes1 with its filth and privations1 was hardly congenial to a sick man1 so that although some returned cured1 others came back only to die4 ,but1 in #aheh1 ,dr4 ,postnikof started an establishment for the cure of diseases by fermented mare's milk1 at ,samra1 in ,eastern ,russia1 and a similar establishment1 about forty-five miles distant1 was started by the late ,dr4 ,tchembulatof1 both of which have been extremely well patronised1 as their places were well ordered1 and the ,koumiss was prepared in a cleanly manner4 ,so successful were they1 that the ,russian ,government1 in #ahgj1 started a place of their own for the cure of sick soldiers belonging to the ,kazan district4 ,here are beds for #ajj soldiers and #bj officers4 ,the curative effect of fermented mare's milk set people thinking whether the milk of cows1 which is much more easy to procure1 would not answer the same purpose4 ,it was tried1 and a new drink was given to the civilized world1 as also a new name1 which was coined expressly for it--,,galazyene1 from 1 milk1 and 1 a ferment4 ,it can be obtained in ,london from the large dairies4 ,dr4 ,polubensky gives the following formula for fermenting cow's milk4 8,an oak churn1 such as is used for churning butter1 has a bottle of fermented cow's or mare's milk1 five days old1 poured into it in the morning4 ,a tumbler and a half of warm milk 7of a temperature of about #ij ,fahr471 in which half an ounce of cane1 still better milk1 sugar has been dissolved1 and a bottle of skimmed cow's milk1 are then added4 8,the addition of the sugar is made for the purpose of remedying the small amount of lactine in cow's milk2 the water is added to make the milk1 which is rich in casein1 thinner1 and thus to facilitate its agitation and emulsion4 ,skim milk is used because it contains less fat1 an excess of which interferes with fermentation4 ,the mixture is then beaten up during half an hour1 to prevent the curdling of the casein1 and is then laid aside for three hours4 7,this is effected at an ordinary room temperature of #fj ,fahr47 8,after the lapse of three hours1 when the surface of the mixture is covered with a film 7of casein and fat in a non-emulsioned condition71 it is again agitated for half an hour1 and another bottle of skim milk--with or without warm water1 according to the thickness of the milk--is added2 the whole mass is again churned for an hour and a half1 or longer1 until the casein is well divided1 and small bubbles appear on the surface of the fluid4 ,then the mixture1 having stood for half an hour1 has a fresh bottle of milk added to it1 and the stirring is again renewed1 with short intervals1 until the ,koumiss is ready1 which usually happens by #aj o'clock p4m41 if its preparation was commenced at #h a4m4 8,the approaching completion of the ,koumiss is known by a thick froth1 which sometimes rises very high1 forming on its surface2 while the full completion of fermentation is recognised by a falling of the froth1 and by certain signs detectable by the ear and hand2 the process of churning becomes easier1 and the splash of the drops during agitation presents a clearer and more metallic sound4 ,the ,koumiss is then poured into ,champagne bottles1 well corked1 and left for the night at a room temperature of from #fj to #gj ,fahr4 ,towards morning1 the ,koumiss is quite fit for use4 ,left in bottle till the next day1 it becomes stronger1 but is still drinkable2 while1 if placed in a cold room1 it may be used even on the fifth day4 8,in order that the preparation of ,koumiss may be carried on successfully1 it will be necessary to put aside two bottles of the ,koumiss first prepared1 and to keep them for three or four days1 so as always to have a bottle of four days old ,koumiss in store for fermenting new portions of milk1 and of replacing the used bottles by new ones40 ,this seems to be rather a long method of making ,koumiss1 compared to that given by ,dr4 ,wolff of ,philadelphia1 which is excessively simple4 8,take of grape sugar oz42 dissolve in #d ozs4 of water4 ,in about #b ozs4 of milk dissolve #bj grains of compressed yeast1 or else well washed and pressed out brewer's yeast4 ,mix the two in a quart ,champagne bottle1 which is to be filled with good cow's milk to within two inches of the top2 cork well1 and secure the cork with string or wire1 and place in an ice chest or cellar at a temperature of #ej ,fahr4 or less1 and agitate three times a day4 ,at the expiration of three or four days1 at the latest1 the ,koumiss is ready for use1 and ought not then to be kept longer than four or five days4 ,it should be drawn with a ,champagne syphon tap1 so that the carbonic acid may be retained1 and the contents will not entirely escape on opening the bottle40 ,be wary in opening a bottle of ,koumiss1 or you may be thoroughly drenched1 and have nothing left to drink1 for it generates a large quantity of carbonic acid gas1 so much so1 indeed1 that extra thick bottles should be used4 ,there is an interesting speculation abroad1 that the milk which ,jael gave ,sisera was fermented1 and highly intoxicating1 which rendered him in a condition favourable for her purpose4 ,the ,usbecks1 ,mongols1 ,kalmucks1 and other ,tartars not only make milk into ,koumiss1 but distil a very strong spirit from it1 which they call araka1 conjectured by some1 from its high antiquity1 to be the true source whence the ,indian ,arrack derives its name4 ,the distillation is generally effected by means of two earthen pots closely stopped1 from which the liquor slowly runs through a small wooden pipe into a receiver1 which is usually covered with a coating of wet clay4 ,the spirit1 at first1 is weak1 but after two or three times distilling1 it becomes exceedingly intoxicating4 ,dr4 ,edward ,clarke1 in his ,travels in ,russia1 ,turkey1 and ,asia1 saw this process performed by means of a still constructed of mud1 or very coarse clay1 having for the neck of the retort a piece of cane4 ,j4 ,a4 ,illustration ,illustration ,,additional ,,drinks4 ,jewish ,prayers respecting various ,drinks--,women's ,tears--,dew--,oil--,sea ,water--,blood--,vegetable ,water--,ganges ,water--,vinegar--,ptisana--,toast ,water--,bragget--,ballston ,water--,warm ,water--,asses' ,milk--,ghee--,milk ,beer--,kumyss--,syra--,lamb ,wine--,rice ,wine--,garapa--,fenkl--,brandy and ,port--,methylated ,spirit4 ,in the ,jewish prayers there is an especial1 exclusive and extensive blessing upon wine1 which runs in the following wise3-- 8,blessed art thou1 ,o ,lord our ,god1 universal ,king1 for the vine1 and for the fruit of the vine1 and for the produce of the field1 and for the land of delight and goodness and amplitude which ,thou hast been pleased to give as an inheritance to thy people ,israel1 to eat of its fruit1 and to be satisfied with its goodness40 ,then follow petitions for the divine mercy upon those who say the blessing1 upon ,israel1 ,god's people1 and upon ,god's city1 ,jerusalem1 and upon ,zion1 the dwelling-place of ,his glory1 and upon ,his altar1 and upon ,his temple4 ,the blessing concludes with a prayer for speedy transportation into the holy city3 8,bring us up into the midst thereof eftsoons1 even in these present days1 that we may bless ,thee in purity and holiness4 ,for ,thou art good1 and the ,giver of good to all4 ,blessed art ,thou1 ,o ,lord1 for the land and for the fruit of the vine40 ,this beautiful prayer1#aee of which only the roughest sketch has been given here1 has been said by pious ,hebrews at every meal in which wine has been drunk from time immemorial4 ,but upon wine alone has this honour been conferred4 ,those who drink ,shecar1 or water1 or any other beverage except wine1 say before their draught thus much only3 8,blessed art ,thou1 ,o ,lord our ,god1 universal ,king1 by whose word all things were made20 and after it1 8,blessed art ,thou1 ,o ,lord our ,god1 universal ,king1 the ,creator of many souls1 and their needs1 for all which ,thou hast created1 to keep alive the soul of every living thing4 ,blessed art ,thou who livest everlastingly40 ,but these two prayers have no especial and necessary relation to drinks4 ,they are also used where aught is eaten which has not grown originally and directly out of the earth1 as1 for example1 the flesh of some beasts1 and birds1 and fishes1 and cheese1 milk1 butter1 and honey4 ,in the present work particular attention has been given1 in the case of alcoholic drinks1 to wines1 spirits1 liqueurs1 and beers1 and in the case of non-alcoholic1 to mineral waters1 tea1 coffee1 and other beverages usually considered non-intoxicant2 but under both these widely extended categories a large number of drinks must enter of which no mention whatever has been made in the preceding pages4 ,it remains for us1 therefore1 to consider in the present chapter the most interesting and important of these drinks which have been hitherto excluded4 ,of the curious and1 in many cases1 repulsive liquids which have from time to time been taken1 either to assuage the pangs of human thirst1 or to gratify the taste of the human palate in health or in disease1 the reader who has not devoted some little time and attention to the investigation of this subject will probably have but a very faint conception4 ,to go no farther back on the pathway of time than to the age of ,john ,taylor1 the water poet1 we find so strange a drink as women's tears4 ,but at a date far earlier than that of the water poet1 the date of the ,babylonian ,talmud1 in ,machshirin1 vi4 #fd1 there are seven liquids comprehended under the generic term drink 7,lev4 xi4 #cd1 and therefore liable to ceremonial defilement71 dew1 water1 wine1 oil1 blood1 milk1 and honey4 ,upon every one of these seven liquids something curious and interesting might be written4 ,about these drinks a question arises in the ,talmud1 whether under water are included such beverages as mulberry water1 pomegranate water1 and other waters of fruits which have a shem livoui1 or compound name4 ,rambam the great ,eagle1 more commonly known as ,maimonides1 seems to exclude these drinks from the general category4 ,by honey is to be understood the honey of bees2 the honey of hornets is not to be numbered in the list4 ,in the ,tosephoth of ,shabbath it is asked1 ,how do we know that blood is a drink8 ,because it is said 7,num4 xxiii4 #bd71 ,and drink the blood of the slain4 ,how do we know that wine is a drink8 ,because it is said 7,deut4 xxxii4 #ad71 ,and thou didst drink the pure blood of the grape4 ,how do we know that honey is a drink8 ,because it is said 7,deut4 xxxii4 #ac71 ,but ,he made him to suck honey out of the rock4 ,how do we know that oil is a drink8 ,because it is said 7,isa4 xxv4 #f71 ,a feast of fat things4 ,how do we know that milk is a drink8 ,because it is said 7,judges iv4 #ai71 ,and she opened a bottle of milk and gave him drink4 ,how do we know that dew is a drink8 ,because it is said 7,judges vi4 #ch71 ,and wringed the dew out of the fleece1 a bowl full of water4 ,there is a curious addition1 reminding us of ,taylor1 the water poet4 ,how do we know that the tears of the eye are a drink8 ,because it is said 7,ps4 lxxx4 #e71 ,and givest them tears to drink in great measure4 ,how do we know that the water of the nose is a drink8 ,because--but the reader has had probably enough of the ,rabbinical lucubrations4 ,a chapter of this book might1 were not space a consideration1 be devoted to water1 which ,thales#aef declared to be the first principle of things1 and1 according to ,seneca1#aeg valentissimum elementum4 ,iced1 it was inveighed#aeh against by the ,stoic philosopher1 as injurious to the stomach4 ,the desire for it was said to proceed from a pampered appetite4 ,pliny#aei speaks of a wine made from sea water1 but considers it1 with ,celsus1 a bad stomachic4 ,in later times sea water has been converted into fresh4 ,bory de ,st4 ,vincent1#afj in his ,essais sur les ,isles ,fortunes1 an entertaining description of the archipelago of the ,canaries1 says that in ,fer1 one of the ,canary ,islands1 a nearly total privation of running water was compensated by an extraordinary tree4 ,bacon 7,nov4 ,scient4 ,org41 #dab71 the ,father ,taillandier 7,lettr4 ,edit41 vii41 #bhj71 ,corneille 7,grand ,dict41 under ,fer7 may be consulted about this tree1 called the holy one4 ,gonzalez d',oviedo 7ii41 #i7 says it distils water through its trunk1 branches1 and leaves1 which resemble so many fountains4 ,the 8exaggerator ,jakson10 says ,bory de ,st4 ,vincent1 being at ,fer in #afah1 saw this tree dried up during the day1 but at night yielding enough water to supply the thirst of #h1jjj inhabitants and #ajj1jjj other animals4 ,according to this authority1 it was distributed from time immemorial all over the island by pipes of lead4 ,it is nothing to 8,jakson0 that lead was not known from time immemorial4 ,viana 7,cant41 i47 speaks of the sacred tree as a sort of celestial pump4#afa ,another author says the holy tree was called ,garoe1 and that its fruit resembled an acorn1 that its leaves were evergreen1 and like those of a laurel4 ,during an east wind the water harvest was the most abundant4 ,this celebrated vegetable product was unfortunately destroyed by a hurricane in #afbe4 ,but even about this date authors disagree4 ,while ,nunez de la ,pena is an authority for that given1 ,nieremberg assures us the catastrophe occurred in #afbi4 ,another date mentioned is #afab4 ,the view of ,bory de ,st4 ,vincent is that this holy tree was nothing more than the ,laurus ,indica of ,linnus1 which is indigenous to the mountain summits of the ,canary ,islands4 ,his concluding remark is pregnant with common sense3 ,si les auteurs que nous ont parl du ,garo ont dit qu'il tait seul de son espce dans l'le1 c'est qu'ils n'taient pas botanistes1 et qu'ils n'avaient pas rflchi que cet arbre ayant un fruit1 devait se reproduire1 comme tous les autres vgtaux4 ,the water of rivers is often clarified in a peculiar manner before drinking4 ,for instance1 that of the ,ganges is said to be improved by rubbing certain nuts on the edges of the vessel in which it is kept1#afb though how this may be it is as difficult to understand1 as how the turtle is affected by a touch of his carapace1 or the ,dean and ,chapter--to borrow ,sydney ,smith's illustration--of ,st4 ,paul's by stroking the cupola of that cathedral4 ,the ,nile water is also said to be purified by treating the vessel which holds it in a similar manner to that which holds the water of the ,ganges1 with bitter almonds4 ,the bitter waters of ,marah were made sweet in a far different fashion4 ,the ,melo-cacti of ,south ,america have earned for themselves the name of 8springs of the desert10 owing to their liquor-preserving properties4 ,an ingenious drink is that of the natives of ,siberia1 a drink prepared of an intoxicating mushroom1#afc in a peculiar and economical manner1 by natural distillation4 ,vinegar appears as a beverage in a few countries only1 and then for special purposes4 ,the ,roman soldiers received it as a refreshing drink on their marches1 and even in the time of ,constantine their rations included vinegar on one day and wine on the other4 ,after all1 this vinegar may have been nothing more than what many of us drink at present under the title of wine4 ,that 8excellent claret10 for instance1 8fit for any gentleman's table10 which may be had at #as4 #f;d4 a bottle1 may be very like the vinegar of the ,roman soldier4 ,roman reapers used it mixed with water1 we are told by ,theocritus 7,idyl x471 and before that time ,ruth was directed to dip her morsel in the vinegar when she gleaned in the field of ,boaz4 ,ptisana1 mentioned by ,celsus 7iii41 #g71 appears to have been a mixture of rice or barley water and vinegar4 ,toast-water is a drink which may be held by some unworthy of mention1 but they may change their minds after reading what ,mr4 ,james ,sedgwick1 apothecary at ,stratford-le-,bow1 had to say on this subject in the year #agbe4 ,the burning of a crust and putting it hissing hot into water has1 according to this gentleman1 several good advantages4 ,by it1 the 8raw coldness from nitrous particles are 7sic7 taken off and moderated1 and it becomes more palatable1 besides which1 from the sudden hissing opposition of temperament1 an elevation is made of the heterogeal particles1 a motion1 an interchanging position is obtained3 ,these ,principles during their intercourses will be imbibed and sucked into the bread in order1 according to their respective distance and gravities1 whereby the liquor will become more pure and almost uncompounded1 less foreign than it was under its natural acception40 ,and yet though all these securities are taken to blunt the 8frigorific mischiefs0 of the water in general1 yet in many constitutions and at particular seasons it is not to be trusted without some 8substantial warmth to give and maintain a glowing1 e'er it dilutes and disperses40 ,he goes on to say that it is better to add wine to the water1 8to prevent the contingent hazards from the limpid element40 ,braket or ,bragget or ,bragwort1 was a drink made of the wort of ale1 honey1 and spices4#afd ,her mouth1 says ,chaucer1 speaking of ,alison1 the carpenter's pretty wife in the ,mother's ,tale1 8was swete as braket or the meth1 ,or hord of apples1 laid in hay or heth40 ,and in ,beaumont and ,fletcher's ,little ,thief1 or the ,night-,walker1 ,jack ,wildbrain speaks with contempt of 8,one that knows not neck-beef from a pheasant1 ,nor cannot relish braggat from ambrosia40 ,the opponents of alcoholic drinks are often met by the objection that some of the drinks recommended by themselves are alcoholic1 as indeed they often are4 ,even water appears to possess1 in some cases1 an intoxicating property4 ,pliny 7,nat4 ,hist41 ii41 cvi47 speaks of a ,lyncestis aqua1#afe of a certain acidity1 which makes men drunken4 ,the celebrated ,ballston waters in the ,state of ,new ,york1 are said to be affected with qualities 8highly exhilarating10 sometimes producing vertigo1 which has been followed by drowsiness2 in other words1 they who drink them exhibit the usual symptoms of drunkenness4 ,timothy ,dwight1 in his ,travels in ,new ,england and ,new ,york1 says that these waters are considered by the farmers of the neighbourhood as an excellent beverage1 and are sent for from a considerable distance for drink to labourers during haymaking and harvesting1 a time well known to be full of desire on the part of country people employed in these agricultural pursuits1 for alcoholic refreshment4 8,they supersede10 says ,dwight1 8in a great measure the use of any ardent spirits40 ,but since the result of drinking these waters seems precisely the same1 as far as regards inebriation1 as that of drinking beer or other alcoholic liquor1 it is questionable whether any advantage is gained by this supersession4 ,the properties of the ,saratoga water1 situated some seven miles from that of ,ballston1 are also of a very remarkable nature4 ,they abound to such an extent in a species of gas1 that we are told a very nice sort of breakfast bread is baked from them instead of yeast4 ,the ,romans considered warm water an agreeable drink at the conclusion of the chief repast of the day4 ,this may explain why ,julius ,csar was always taken ill after dinner4 ,many drinks are derived from animals1 either wholly as milk and blood1 or from animals and vegetables in common1 as oil4 ,it is said that there are people here in ,england who like--so strange is the diversity of tastes--a draught of oil from the liver of a cod as much as an ,esquimaux approves of a draught of the oil of a porpoise or a seal4 ,of milk a large catalogue of drinks can be reckoned4 ,first1 there are the different kinds of milk of different animals1 as the milk of asses1 of women1 of goats1 of cows1 of sheep1 of reindeer1 of camels1 of sows1 and of mares4 ,then it may be swallowed as it is drawn1 or in the form of whey1 or curdled4 ,ghee#aff is a common favourite throughout all ,india4 ,it is a stale butter clarified by boiling and straining1 and then set to cool1 when it remains in a semi-liquid or oily state1 and is used in cooking1 or is drunk by the natives4 ,in milk-beer1 milk is substituted for water4 ,kef is a kind of effervescing fermented milk1 much resembling ,koumiss 7or rather ,kumyss71 of which the best is probably to be obtained in ,samra4 ,youourt#afg is a favourite drink at ,constantinople1 made of milk curdled after a peculiar fashion4 ,syra1 a form allied with the ,german ,sure1 is a sour whey1 used for drink like small beer in ,norway and ,iceland4 ,aizen and ,leban are both sorts of ,kumyss1 one of the ,tartars1 the other of the ,arabs4 ,the latter have also an intoxicating liquor ,sabzi1 made of ,bhang1 a species of hemp4 ,the green leaf from which the drink derives its name is pounded and diluted with sugared water4 ,even the warm blood of living animals has been considered suitable for a drink4 ,in the book of ,ser ,marco ,polo the ,venetian1 concerning the marvels of the ,east1 we are told1 the ,tartar will sustain himself in an economical manner1 by opening a vein in the neck of the horse upon which he rides1 and having taken a sufficient drink will close the aperture1 and ride on as before4 ,carpini says much the same of the ,mongols4 ,this appears indeed to have been a time-honoured institution4 ,dionysius ,periegetes1 in the nineteenth chapter of his ,description of the ,world1 treating of ,scythia and other ancient nations situated in what is now known as ,great ,tartary1 says of the ,massaget that they have no eating of bread nor any native wine1 but 4 8,or with horses blood1 ,and white milk mingled set their banquets forth10 ,orbis ,desc41 #egh4 ,and ,sidonius1 to the same effect1 8solitosque cruentum ,lac potare ,getas1 et pocula tingere venas40 ,parag4 ad ,avitum4 ,another strange variety of drink is made by the ,peruvians4 ,the ordinary chica is mixed with the bloody garments of a slain warrior4 ,temple 7,travels1 ii41 #caa74 ,according to ,lobo1 the ,abyssinians esteem the gall one of the most delicious parts of a beast1 and drink glasses of it1 as epicures with us drink ,chteau ,lafitte4 ,pearce 7,adventures in ,abyssinia1 i41 #ie7 says that they also drink blood warm from the animal with an extraordinary relish4 ,the ,mantchoos1 the conquerors of ,china1 prepare a wine of a peculiar mixture from the flesh of lambs1 either by fermenting it reduced to a kind of paste with the milk of their domestic animals1 or by bruising it to a pulp with rice4 ,when properly matured1 it is put into jars and drawn as occasion requires4 ,it is said to be strong and nutritious1 and the most voluptuous orgies of the ,tartars are the result of an intoxication from lamb wine4 ,abb ,rickard1 ,history of ,tonquin4 ,the only wine in ,sumatra1 according to ,marco ,polo1 was derived from a certain tree1 the sacred wine-tree as it might be called1 in comparison with the sacred water-tree1 afterwards known as ,areng ,saccharifera1 from the ,javanese name1 called by the ,malays ,gomuti and by the ,portuguese ,saguer4 ,it has some resemblance to a date palm1 to which ,polo compares it1 but is much coarser and more ragged1 incompta et adspectu tristis1 dishevelled and of a melancholy aspect1 as it is described by ,rumphius4 ,a branch of this tree was cut1 a large pot attached1 and in a day and a night the pot was filled with excellent wine1 both white and red1 which1 says the ,venetian1 cures dropsy and tisick and spleen4 ,the ,chinese ,rice ,wine and its manufacture is described in ,amyot's ,memoires1 v41 #dfh4 ,a yeast is employed1 with which is often mixed a flour prepared from fragrant herbs1 almonds1 pine seeds1 dried fruits1 etc4 ,rubruquis says the liquor is not distinguishable1 except by smell1 from the best wine of ,auxerre1 a wine so famous in the middle ages that the historian friar ,salimbene went to that town for the express purpose of drinking it4 ,ysbrand ,ides compares it to ,rhenish1 ,john ,bell to ,canary1 and a modern traveller1 quoted by ,davis1 8in colour and a little in taste to ,madeira40 ,marco ,polo says1 8it is a very hot stuff10 making one drunk sooner than any other beverage4 ,from the walnut1 which is cultivated to great extent in the ,crimea1 a sweet clear liquor is extracted in the spring1 at the time the sap is rising in the tree4 ,the trunk of the walnut is pierced and a spigot placed in the incision4 ,the fluid obtained soon coagulates into a substance used as sugar4 ,it does not1 however1 appear that the juice has been converted to any inebriating purpose4 ,not only1 however1 from the walnut can a good drink be extracted1 but also from the birch1 the willow1 the poplar and the sycamore4 ,a sort of birch wine is made in ,normandy4 ,an excellent drink1 resembling brandy1 has been distilled1 it is said1 from water melons in the southern provinces of ,russia1 where consequently much attention is paid to the culture of this vegetable1 producing in some cases water melons of thirty pounds in weight4 ,in the ,sandwich ,islands a drink is distilled from the root of the ,dracna1 something like the beet of this country4 ,the root of the ,dracna gives a saccharine juice resembling molasses4 ,from this1 with the addition of some ginger1 a kind of tea is made1 also a spirit called by the natives ,ywera4 ,their manufacture of this drink is remarkable for its complexity1 involving certain mystic operations with an old pot1 a leaky canoe1 a calabash1 and a rusty gun-barrel4 ,it is unnecessary to give a detailed account of the process4 ,we yearn in vain for that absence of entanglement which distinguishes the religion of the ,iroquois1 who have no other worship than the annual sacrifice of a dog to ,taulonghyaawangooa1 which being interpreted is the 8supporter of the ,heavens40 ,at this sacrifice they eat the dog4 ,sbitena1 or ,sbetin1 is the name of a delightful drink sold in the streets of ,st4 ,petersburg to the populace4 ,in ,granville's ,st4 ,petersburg 7ii41 #dbb7 a mention is made of this beverage4 ,it is composed of honey and hot water and pepper and boiling milk4 ,a drink called ,omeire is prepared in the ,south-,west of ,africa by the aid of some dirty gourds and milk vigorously shaken therein at stated intervals4 ,in ,nubia the crumb of strongly leavened bread made from dhurra is mixed with water and set on the fire4 ,it is afterwards allowed to ferment for two days1 strained through a cloth1 a lady's garment by choice1 and drunk4 ,it is called ,ombulbul1 or the mother of the nightingale1 because it makes the drinker sing like that bird4 ,pulque is a vinous beverage made in ,mexico by fermenting the juice of the agave4 ,its distinctive peculiarity is its odour1 which has been compared by an experimentalist to that of putrid meat4 ,there are four drinks in ,madagascar3 ,toak1 made from honey and water2 ,araffer1 from a tree called ,sater1 resembling a small cocoa-nut2 ,toupare1 from boiled cane1 a liquid so corrosive as in a short time to penetrate an egg shell2 and ,vontaca1 from the juice of the so-called ,bengal quince4 ,the last soon produces intoxication1 against which another curious drink is mentioned as a remedy by ,ovalle1 to wit1 the sweat of a horse infused in wine4 ,the aborigines of ,australia 7,dawson's ,present ,state of ,australia1 p4 #fj7 are inordinately fond of a beverage known by them under the name of bull4 ,the recipe for this1 as given by ,mr4 ,dawson1 runs thus3 ,get an old sugar bag1 steal it if you cannot get it by any other means1 and cut it into small pieces4 ,prepare a large kettle of boiling water1 throw into it as many of these pieces of bag as it will hold1 and let it simmer for half a day4 ,an excellent bull will be the result4 ,this bull1 says ,dawson1 they are extremely fond of1 and will drink it till they are blown out like an ox with clover1 and can contain no more4 ,poncet speaks of booza as the usual liquor of the ,abyssinians1 8vastly thick and very ill tasted10 produced from a day's soaking of a roasted berry4 ,the negroes of ,brazil affect a mixture of black sugar and water without fermentation1 called ,garapa1 to which heat is sometimes added by the leaves of the ,acajou tree4 ,snow melted and impregnated with the flavour of smoke from the fire upon which it is placed is the common drink of the ,lapp4 ,occasionally he gets a decoction of the herb angelica in milk4 ,the maritime ,lapp drinks with gusto the oil squeezed from the entrails of fish4 ,women1 it is said1 will take a pint and a half of this so-called tran at a meal4 ,but the favourite drink is composed of water and meal flavoured with a quantity of tallow1 and1 if circumstances will permit1 the blood of the reindeer4 ,taidge or ,tedge or ,tedj is a kind of honey wine or hydromel1 said by ,father ,poncet#afh to be a delicious liquor1 pure1 clarified1 and of the colour of ,spanish white wine4 ,the process of its manufacture is simple4 ,wild honey is mixed with water1 and set in a jar1 with a little sprouted barley1 some biccalo or taddoo bark1 and a few geso or gucho leaves4 ,a superior kind is made by adding kuloh berries4 ,this is called barilla4 ,the taste of tedj has been described as that of small beer and musty lemonade4 ,the women commonly strain it through their shifts4 ,besdon is made like tedj1 with honey1 and is highly valued in some parts of ,africa4 ,ladakh beer has the merit of portability4 ,it is made of parched barley1 rice1 and the root of an aromatic plant1 and pressed into a cake4 ,a piece of this is broken off and cast into water4 ,it resembles in taste sour gruel4 ,pombe is a liquid brewed of fruit1 furnishing a common sort of cider known well in ,eastern ,africa4 ,in ,tonquin#afi on the annual renewal of allegiance1 they drink chicken's blood mixed with arrack4 ,they make a sort of cider from miengou1 a fruit like a pomegranate4 ,an extract of wheat1 rye1 or millet is mixed with peka1 consisting of rice flour1 garlic1 aniseed1 and liquorice4 ,after fermentation it is distilled and becomes the celebrated ,samchou4 ,in ,sweden1 with the smr-gs1 or fore taste#agj at a side-table a glass of fenkl1 sometimes very good1 sometimes very bad1 is given to him who is about to dine4 ,it is made from fennel--a form perhaps of fniculum--growing wild and abundant1 as at ,marathon#aga the celebrated deme on the east coast of ,attica1 the field of the famous battle4 ,in addition to strange compounds known in various parts of this country1 such as ,gin and ,lime ,juice1 ,whiskey or ,rum and ,milk1 ,brandy and ,port1 a drink said to have originated in ,lancashire1 ,dog's ,nose1 ,shandy ,gaff1 etc41 etc41 may be mentioned ,ethyl or ,methylated ,spirits1 a beverage which1 like ether in ,ireland1 has of late years advanced considerably in public estimation4 ,it has the two advantages of being cheap and heady4 ,an ,act of #ahhj imposed penalties on any retail tradesman selling it for the purpose of drink4 ,a better method perhaps to prevent its being poured down the throats of ,her ,majesty's liege subjects would be to take steps to ensure its being mixed before sold with a strong emetic4 ,the palate can be trained1 but the stomach is far less docile4 ,illustration ,,footnotes #a ,these essences and colours are no new thing4 ,addison spoke of them nearly two hundred years ago in his 8,trial of the ,wine ,brewers0 in the ,tatler4 ,tom ,tintoret and ,harry ,sippet have left a large family behind them4 #b ,see tailpiece1 where a servant is coming to the assistance of her mistress4 #c ,jablonski is our authority for supposing it primarily an ,egyptian drink4 ,a zythum and a dizythum seem to have existed1 corresponding1 let us say1 to our ,single and ,double ,x4 ,this zythum is nearly allied to the sacera of ,palestine1 the cesia of ,spain1 the cervisia of ,gaul1 the sebaia of ,dalmatia1 and the curmi or camum of ,germany4 ,according to ,rabbi ,joseph1 this beer was made barley1 ,crocus ,sylvestris1 salt4 ,he adds1 8,he that is bound1 it looseth2 and he who is loose1 it binds2 and it is dangerous for pregnant women40 #d ,information on this subject is given by ,sir ,edward ,barry1 ,observations on the ,wines of the ,ancients2 ,henderson1 ,history of ,ancient and ,modern ,wines2 and ,becker's ,charicles4 #e ,this is probably the murrhina of ,plautus 7,pseudol4 ii4 #d1 #ej7 #f ,this drink must not be confounded with 1 honey and water1 our mead1 or 1 our cider4 #g ,pliny1 ,nat4 ,hist4 xiv4 #ai1 etc4 #h ,line #ifd1 etc4 #i ,line #djdd1 etc4 #aj ,line #achg1 etc4 #aa ,line #adcb1 etc4 #ab ,line #ace1 etc4 #ac ,hist4 ,account of the ,cathedral ,church of ,york1 ,lond41 #agae1 p4 #g4 #ad ,that division of the ancient kingdom of ,northumberland1 which was bounded by the river ,humber southwards1 and to the north by the ,tyne4 #ae ,a liquor made of honey1 wine1 and spice4 #af ,honey1 diluted with the juice of mulberries4 #ag ,in this sense it is apparently used in ,gen4 ix4 #bd3 8,noah awoke from his wine40 #ah ,from an ,arabic word for antimony1 applied to the eyes1 the name is said to have been transferred to rectified spirits 7,c,h,o74 ,it is a liquid formed by fermentation of aqueous sugar solutions4 ,spirit of ,wine contains about #ij per cent4 of alcohol4 #ee parts of alcohol and #de of water form proof spirit4 ,of alcohol1 spirits contain #dj-ej per cent42 wines1 #g-be2 ale and porter1 #f-h2 small beer1 #a-b4 #ai ,who would believe this from the specimens tasted in ,england8 ,yet we are assured the statement is perfectly true4 #bj ,patterson's ,travels in ,caffraria1 p4 #ib4 #ba ,one of these inspired ,longfellow1 who thinks 7poetically7 the richest wine is that of the ,west1 which grows by the beautiful river1 whose sweet perfume fills the apartment1 with a benison on the giver3-- 8,very good in its way is the ,verzenay1 ,or the ,sillery1 soft and creamy2 ,but ,catawba wine has a taste more divine1 ,more dulcet1 delicious1 and dreamy40 ,a dreamy taste is something startling even in poetical description4 #bb ,chili has lately taken ,paris medals for its wines2 it also produces a light and wholesome beer4 #bc ,the rbche is principally sold to people manufacturing cheap ,champagnes2 by mixing with other wines of very light complexion1 they give them body1 and make a stuff which can be produced at a very low price4 #bd ,de ,proprietatibus ,rerum4 ,argent4 #adhe1 lib4 xix4 cap4 #ef4 #be ,blount's ,fragmenta ,antiquitatis4 ,sec4 8,grand ,serjeantry10 ,no4 ,,iv4 #bf ,the ,wines of the ,world1 ,characterized and ,classed1 #ahge1 pp4 #af1 #ag4 #bg ,this wine is said to profit much by a quiescent state of the air afforded by the town wall4 #bh ,a wine at ,homburg1 called ,erlacher1 at about one mark a bottle1 is1 says ,dr4 ,charnock1 frequently superior to the ordinary ,niersteiner4 #bi 8,hock10 says one of those wine circulars1 which weary alike the postman and the public1 8is the ,english name for the noble vintages of the ,rhine1 which afford models of what wine ought to be4 ,their purity is attested by their durability4 ,they are almost imperishable4 ,they increase appetite1 they exhilarate without producing languor1 and they purify the blood4 ,the ,germans say good ,hock keeps off the doctor4 ,southey says it deserves to be called the ,liquor of ,life4 ,and so ,pindar would have called it1 if he had ever tasted it40 ,nothing surely can be added to this description of its virtues4 #cj ,thus unfortunately translated1 8,rhine wine is good1 ,neckar pleasant1 ,frankfort bad1 ,moselle innocent40 ,but ,moselle1 we have been told1 is very far from 8innocent40 ,unnosel is without bouquet4 ,tranken means not bad but drinkable1 and lecker is rather lickerish than good4 ,a sample of the same carelessness occurs on the next page1 where ein weinfask von anderhalb ahm ein pipe is intended to express ein ,weinfass von anderthalb ,ohm1 eine ,pipe4 ,it is a pity that an excellent work1 to which we1 as many writers on wine like ourselves1 have been deeply indebted1 should be marred by these irregularities4 #ca ,colonel ,leake described the ordinary country wine as a villainous compound of lime1 resin1 spirits of wine1 and grapes1 without body or flavour4 ,nor were things better in the days of old4 ,dugald ,dalgetty1 a ,german ,ensign1 writing from ,athens in #afhg1 says1 8,would that ,i could exchange a cask of ,athenian wine for a cask of ,german beer60 ,the vin du pays is impregnated with resin or turpentine now as formerly1 whence1 according to ,plutarch1 the ,thyrsus of ,bacchus is adorned with a pine cone4 ,pliny says it favours the preservation of the drink4 #cb ,the island owes this name to its patron saint ,irene1 martyred here ,a4,d4 #cjd4 #cc ,the value attached to this wine is one example among many of the caprice of fashion4 ,the ,muscadine of ,syracuse or the ,lagrima of ,malaga is equal to it in richness1 and few people would prefer it to other wines1 did they dare to contradict the decision of fashion in its favour1 and to have a taste of their own4 #cd ,so called from its green colour4 ,it is said to have been a favourite wine of ,frederick the ,great4 ,it is held now in slighter esteem4 #ce ,called ,est ,est from the writing under the bust of the valet of the bibulous ,german bishop ,defoucris1 who drank himself to death1 upon which his valet composed his epitaph4 #8,est est1' propter minium #8est1'4 ,dominus meus mortuus est4 ,reverence for antiquity is our sole excuse for the reproduction of these wretched lines4 ,monte ,pulciano has also the credit of having killed a ,churchman4 ,other wines doubtless have had the same honour4 #cf 8,let no man10 says the ,talmud1 8send his neighbour wine with oil upon its surface40--,chulin1 fol4 #id1 col4 #a4 #cg ,malmsey wine is also a product of ,funchal1 in ,madeira4 ,the first so-called wine was shipped for ,francis ,i4 of ,france4 ,the word is probably a corruption of ,malvasia or ,monemvasia 7 1 or single entrance71 a ,greek island from which the grape may have been brought by the ,florentine ,acciajoli in #aeae4 #ch ,rota wines are mostly coloured1 or ,tintos1 whence our ,english sacramental drink4 ,they are all simmered--at their best in youth1 and their worst in age4 #ci ,supposed by some to be the old ,english ,sack4 ,the reader interested may consult ,hakluyt1 ,nicols1 ,hewell's ,dictionary1 and ,venner's ,via ,recta4 #dj ,the etymology is uncertain4 ,some derive it from the town near ,seville1 others from the ,spanish word for an apple1 and others again from that for a camomile flower4 #da ,valley of ,rocks1 indicating the soil on which it is grown4 #db ,it is frequently damaged by the carelessness of the vinatero1 or wine-seller1 to such an extent that the proverb ,pregonar vino y vender vinagre becomes1 like wisdom1 justified of her children4 #dc ,so called from the grape common in most parts of ,spain4 #dd ,the fine old ,amoroso1 of which a small stock is still remaining4 #de ,so called from the battle of ,birs1 in the reign of ,louis ,,xi41 in which #a1fjj ,swiss opposed #cj1jjj ,french1 and only sixteen of the former survived4 ,the fallen succumbed1 we are told1 less to the power of the foe than to the fatigue of the fighting4 #df ,it is supposed by the erudite divine1 ,adam ,clarke1 to be probably borrowed from the ,hebrew word 1 ,greek 1 which1 according to ,st4 ,jerome 7,epist4 ad ,nepotianum de vita ,clericorum1 et in ,isai4 xxvii4 #a71 means any intoxicating liquor1 whether of honey1 corn1 apples1 dates1 or other fruits4 #dg ,in a treatise of the ,talmud1 ,abodah ,zarah1 fol4 #dj1 col4 #b1 cider is called 8wine of apples40 #dh ,walker3 ,hist4 ,essay on ,gardening1 p4 #aff4 ,anthologia ,hibernica1 i4 #aid4 #di ,the extra dry old lauded or pale cremant1 or the extra reserve ,cuve1 #ahhd vintage4 #ej ,for further information1 see ,crocker1 ,marshall1 ,knight1 and especially ,stopes4 #ea ,the ,french name1 ,eau de ,vie1 having the same meaning4 #eb 8,the ,vertuose boke of ,distyllacyon of the ,waters of all maner of ,herbes1 with the fygures of the styllatoryes1 ,fyrst made and compyled by the thyrte yeres study and labour of the most conynge and famous master of phisyke1 ,master ,iherom bruynswyke4 ,and now newly ,translated out of ,duyche into ,englysshe10 etc4 ,lond41 #aegb4 #ec ,lethargy4 #ed ,belching4 #ee ,pleurisy4 #ef ,a ,spanish ,wine4 #eg 8 ,orrice4 #eh ,stir4 #ei ,phial4 #fj ,adam and ,eve stript of their furbelows1 #agaj 787 #fa ,act ,,iii41 s4 #c4 #fb ,my ,life and ,recollections1 ,vol4 ,i41 p4 #ei4 #fc ,now called ,athol brose4 #fd ,of the word gill-house a recent editor of ,pope observes that it is doubtful whether it is to be understood as a house where gill1 or beer impregnated with ground-ivy1 was sold1 or whether as an inferior tavern1 where beer was sold by the measure known as a gill4 #fe ,there are two other prints connected with this event1 all published at the same time4 ,one is 8,the ,funeral ,procession of ,madame ,geneva1 ,sept4 #bi1 #agcf40 ,the other is a ,memorial1 8,to the ,mortal ,memory of ,madame ,geneva1 who died ,sept4 #bi1 #agcf4 ,her weeping ,servants and loving ,friends1 consecrate this ,tomb40 #ff ,whose premises were burnt down during the ,lord ,george ,gordon riots4 ,dickens immortalized ,langdale in ,barnaby ,rudge4 ,the distillery is still in existence at the same place4 #fg ,a whistling shop was a sly grog-shop4 ,no spirits were allowed in the ,fleet prison1 but of course they were introduced1 and could be got at some places4 ,the method of telling who could be trusted1 was for the customers to whistle--hence the term4 #fh ,alcoholic ,drinks1 #ahhd1 p4 #fg4 #fi ,scott's ,ivanhoe1 cap4 iii4 #gj ,morat is a composition of honey and mulberries1 from which latter its name is derived4 #ga ,according to their first institution the ,jesuits were not priests4 ,this was conceded to them afterwards by ,paul ,v4 ,their primitive principal occupation was the assistance of the sick and the distillation of salutiferous waters1 whence they were known as 8padri dell' acquavite10 or ,fathers of brandies4 #gb ,a liqueur made with the flower of citron4 #gc ,ad majorem ,dei gloriam4 #gd ,roret's 8,manuel du distillateur-liquoriste40 #ge ,gui-,patin ,lettres1 ii4 #dbe4 #gf ,one of the most important liqueur manufactories is that of ,marie ,brizard and ,roger of ,bordeaux4 ,in #agee ,marie ,brizard1 in the ,quartier ,s4 ,pierre1 a lady of much devotion and charity1 devoted a large portion of her time1 in imitation of the monks1 to the concoction of medicinal cordials4 ,of these1 her ,anisette1 so called from its chief ingredient1 soon attained a wide reputation4 ,roger married the niece of this lady1 and the firm is now known under their joint names4 ,they manufacture many other liqueurs1 but are still chiefly famous for the old medicinal cordial4 #gg 1 alacsir1 from 1 dry4 #gh ,here is the etymological process for the linguistic student3 ,ligusticum2 ,lat41 levisticum2 ,fr41 luvesche1 leveshe1 livche2 ,o4 ,eng41 livish1 lovage4 ,the ,italian has the form libistico1 and the ,portuguese levistico4 #gi ,a technical term4 #hj ,so called because said to be prepared from the maidenhair fern1 ,adiantum capillus ,veneris2 8but10 says ,pereira1 7,materia ,medica71 8the liqueur sold in the shops under this name is nothing but clarified syrup flavoured with orange-flower water40 #ha ,these colours by which soi-disant connoisseurs profess to determine the excellence of the liqueur1 are in most cases merely adscititious4 ,rules are given for their manufacture4 ,rose1 for instance1 is the outcome of cochineal or sanders wood steeped for a fortnight in spirits of wine4 ,blue1 of indigo and sulphuric acid4 ,yellow1 of saffron4 ,pink1 of cudbear1 a corruption of the name of the chemist1 ,dr4 ,cuthbert ,gordon1 who first employed this lichen2 and green1 of blue and yellow mixed4 #hb ,a pharmaceutical term for volatile oil of orange flowers4 ,said to be derived from an ,italian princess1 ,nroli1 who invented it4 #hc ,from ,arabic ,khulanj1 8a tree from which wooden bowls are made10 ,richardson4 ,a dried rhizome brought from ,china1 an aromatic stimulant of the nature of ginger4 ,the drug is mostly produced by ,alpinia officinarum4 #hd ,also called ,luft-,wasser4 #he ,only an ,italian1 we are told1 can make this liqueur4 ,the composition is a dark secret1 but1 we are also told1 it originated in ,austria1 and is a mixture of tea1 wine and milk in unknown quantities4 #hf ,said1 on account of its carminative properties1 to be derived from the three words vesse1 pet1 and rot1 which it is not incumbent upon us to translate4 #hg ,merely a corruption of ,usquebaugh4 #hh ,so called from the inventor4 ,said to be useful in stomachic affections4 #hi ,sic1 aimable 787 #ij ,so called because made with guignes1 ,sp4 guindas2 dark red1 very sweet cherries1 smaller than the bigarreaux4 ,the ,guignolet d',angers is especially famous4 #ia ,this is composed of fennel1 celery1 coriander1 and angelica4 #ib ,sometimes written ,karoy4 ,carum carve1 ,l41 from the ,greek 1 an umbelliferous plant of which the root by culture becomes edible4 ,the fruit is analogous to that of anise4 #ic ,also written more correctly d',hendaye2 white1 yellow1 and green1 according to its alcoholic strength4 #id ,cassis would appear to be the name of a ville 7,bouches-du-,rhone7 which has a commerce of wine and fruit4 #ie ,stolberg's ,travels1 i41 #adf4 #if ,germ4 ,wermuth1 absinthe or wormwood1 plant of genus ,artemisia--perhaps originally connected with warm1 on account of the warmth it produces in the stomach4 ,this bitter1 though commonly quoted under liqueurs1 should be classed with ,quinine ,wine1 ,angostura1 ,khoosh1 etc41 ,juglandine1 made in ,france from the walnut1 ,malakoff made in ,silesia1 the ,shaddock and ,quassia bitters of the ,west ,indies1 and the ,schapps bitter of ,switzerland4 #ig ,the dictionary explanations of these terms are commonly unsatisfactory4 ,the experience of the bar-tender is more than the learning of the lexicographer4 ,cobbler1 indeed1 is well explained as compounded of wine1 sugar1 lemon1 and sucked up through a straw2 but of cocktail we only learn that it is a compounded drink much used in ,america4 ,the etymologies given are generally satisfactory4 ,julep is from rose water4 ,mull from mulled1 erroneously taken as a past participle4 ,according to ,wedgwood1 mulled is a form of mould1 and mulled ale is funeral ale1 potatio funerosa4 ,nogg is from noggin1 signifying a pot1 and then the strong beer which it contains4 ,negus is commonly known to have been the invention of ,col4 ,francis ,negus in the reign of ,anne4 ,punch is of course from the ,hindustani 1 signifying #e1 from its five original ingredients1 to wit1 aqua vit1 rose water1 sugar1 arrack1 and citron juice4 ,a very unsatisfactory derivation of ,sangaree is from the ,spanish sangria1 the incision of a vein4 ,shrub is clearly the ,arabic or syrup4 ,smash1 explained curtly as 8iced brandy and water40 7,slang7 is probably from the smashing of the ice2 while sling seems evidently to be from the ,german schlingen1 to swallow4 #ih ,the verdict of ,franois ,guislier du ,verger1 the master-distiller in the art of chemistry at ,paris1 in his ,trait des ,liqueurs1 in #agbh1 is altogether unfavourable to what he calls ,le ,ponge4 8,it is10 he says1 8an ,english liqueur1 and a man must be ,english to drink it2 for ,i think it cannot be to the taste of any other nation in the world4 ,it upsets the stomach1 provokes the bile1 and violently affects the head4 ,how1 indeed1 can it be otherwise1 seeing that it is composed of white wine1 ,eau de vie1 citrons1 a little sugar1 and bread crumbs40 ,and then follows the observation3 8,if water were put instead of ,eau de vie1 with an equal quantity of wine1 a citron1 and four ounces of sugar1 a liqueur suitable to every one would be the result1 a liqueur which would do as much good as the other does harm40 #ii ,such at least is the signification of sangaree as far as ,american drinks are concerned4 ,but ,sang-gris is said by ,bescherelle to be a mixture of tea in wine amongst the sailors of the ,north4 ,perhaps the name is taken from the colour4 ,it recalls ,david ,garrick's 8,why1 the tea is as red as blood40 ,in the ,west ,indies it is made of ,madeira1 water1 lime juice1 and sugar4 ,spices are sometimes added4 ,pinckard's 8,west ,indies10 i4 #dfi4 #ajj ,shrub is called santa in ,jamaica4 ,it is made in the ,west ,indies with rum1 syrup1 and orange-peel4 #aja ,the ,slang ,dictionary1 however1 defines ,sling as a drink peculiar to ,americans1 generally composed of gin1 soda-water1 ice1 and slices of lemon4 ,at some houses 7understand public7 in ,london gin slings may be obtained4 ,francatelli has an exquisite note on ,gin ,sling1 which he directs to be sucked through a straw4 8,i fear that very genteel persons will be exceedingly shocked at my words2 but when ,i tell them that the very act of imbibition through a straw prevents the gluttonous absorption of large and baneful quantities of drink1 they will1 ,i make no doubt1 accept the vulgar precept for the sake of its protection against sudden inebriety40 #ajb ,aromatic tincture3 ,ginger1 cinnamon1 orange peel1 each #a oz42 valerian1 oz42 alcohol1 #b quarts4 ,macerate for fourteen days and filter through unsized paper4 #ajc ,those who wish to investigate the antiquity of beer may find ample matter to supply their desire in a work commonly attributed to ,archdeacon ,rolleston1 entitled1 8 1 a dissertation concerning the origin and antiquity of barley wine40 ,oxford1 #agej4 #ajd ,much has been written on the comparative merits of wine and beer4 ,perhaps as good a remark as any on this subject was made by a modern tradesman who1 wishing to sell both1 explained that1 while strongly advocating the introduction of wine1 he did not at all intend to depreciate the merits of our national beverage1 beer4 ,where1 he continued1 plenty of out-door exercise is taken1 and little intellectual effort is demanded1 good beer is perhaps the most wholesome of all drinks2 and therefore he advised the 8labouring man10 who could not probably afford to buy wine1 to drink beer1 while others1 who might be supposed able to afford wine1 were warned that they could not drink beer with impunity4 #aje ,the world has little altered since the time of ,martial 7i4 #ai74 8scelus est jugulare ,falernum1 ,et dare ,campano toxica sva mero40 #ajf ,this is the sweet potato1 introduced into ,europe before the common potato4 #ajg ,for an interesting account of this1 vid41 ,dr41 ,charnock's ,verba ,nominalia4 #ajh ,beajus1 which in ,malay signifies a wild man4 #aji ,roggewein's ,voyage ,round the ,world4 #aaj ,according to ,kotzebue1 old women chew1 as in the ,south ,american chica--let us hope this cannot be correct--and little girls spit on it to thin the paste4 ,kotzebue's ,new ,voyage ,round the ,world1 vol4 ii41 p4 #agj4 #aaa ,from the old ,french ,pallir1 to become vapid1 lose spirit4 ,washy stuff4 #aab ,see second part of ,westminster ,drollery1 #afgb4 #aac ,general ,monk's receipt is given in the ,harleian ,miscellany1 i41 #ebd4 ,london1 #agdd4 #aad 8,mum's the word10 etc4 #aae ,der ,bierbrauer1 ,prag41 #ahgd4 #aaf ,hamilton's ,account of ,nepaul4 #aag ,pinckard's ,notes1 p4 #dbi4 #aah ,robertson's ,history of ,america1 ii41 #g4 #aai ,this is the beverage in general use4 ,titsingh's ,japan4 ,some writers have connected it with our 8sack40 #abj ,when cold1 it is said to produce serki1 a species of fatal colic4 #aba ,for this list we are indebted to the courtesy of ,messrs4 ,gow1 ,wilson ,stanton1 #ac1 ,rood ,lane1 ,london1 ,e4,c4 #abb ,messrs4 ,william1 ,james ,henry ,thompson1 #ch1 ,mincing ,lane ,london4 #abc ,messrs4 ,gow1 ,wilson ,stanton4 #abd ,in ,september1 #ahij1 a small parcel of ,flowering ,pekoe fetched1 at public sale1 #cfs4 per lb41 and this price has been largely exceeded on former occasions4 8,a parcel of tea from the ,oriental ,bank ,estates ,company's ,havilland ,estate in ,ceylon was sold at auction in ,mincing ,lane yesterday for #ag per lb41 or over one guinea an ounce40--,standard1 ,may #fth1 #ahia4 8,a small lot of ,golden ,tip ,ceylon tea from the ,gartmore ,estate was sold by auction in ,mincing ,lane yesterday to the ,mazawattee ,ceylon ,tea ,company at #be #ajs4 per lb40--,standard1 ,may #hth1 #ahia4 #abe ,messrs4 ,wm4 ,jas4 and ,hy4 ,thompson4 #abf ,joannis ,petri ,maffeii ,bergomatis1 e ,societate ,jesu1 ,historiarum ,indicarum1 etc4 ,florenti1 #aehh4 #abg ,delle ,cause della grandezza delle ,citt1 etc41 del ,giovanni ,botero4 ,milano1 ed4 #aeif1 p4 #fa4 #abh ,divers ,voyages et ,missions du ,p4 ,alexandre de ,rhodes1 en la ,chine1 autres ,royaumes de l',orient1 etc4 ,paris1 #afec1 p4 #di4 #abi ,catharine of ,braganza1 wife of ,charles ,,ii4 #acj ,portugal4 #aca ,the ,works of ,thomas ,brown1 ed4 #agjh1 vol4 iii41 p4 #hf4 #acb ,his friend ,tyers parodied the last phrase as 8te inviente die1 te decedente40 #acc ,relation du voyage de la ,mer du ,sud1 aux ctes du ,chily1 et du ,prou1 fait pendant les annes #agab1 #ac1 #ad1 par ,amde ,franois ,frezier4 ,paris1 #agaf1 #d4 #acd ,joyfull ,newes out of the newe founde ,worlde1 etc4 ,englished1 by ,jhon ,frampton1 ,marchaunt1 #aegg1 fol #aja b4 #ace ,garden beds in which seeds are planted4 #acf ,lima4 #acg ,tschudi travelled in ,peru1 #ahch-ahdb4 #ach ,travels in ,peru1 by ,c4 ,r4 ,markham1 #ahfb1 p4 #bcg4 #aci ,in #ahfa1 the cesto of ,coca sold at #h dollars in ,sandia4 ,in ,huanaco it was #e dollars the aroba of #be lbs4 #adj ,ed4 #ahgi1 p4 #cfc4 #ada ,a ,description of the ,coasts of ,north and ,south ,guinea1 etc41 by ,john ,barbot1 etc4 ,now first printed from his original ,,ms41 #agcb4 #adb ,part #b1 ,section #e4--,mem4 #a1 ,sub4 #e4 #adc ,for a list of #ejj ,coffee ,houses1 see ,appendix to ,social ,life in the ,reign of ,queen ,anne1 by ,john ,ashton4 #add ,memoirs and ,observations in his ,travels over ,england1 etc4 #ade ,a ,brief ,description of the excellent ,vertues of that ,sober and ,wholesome ,drink called ,coffee4 #afgd1 s4 sh4 fol4 #adf ,the ,mineral ,water ,maker's ,manual for #ahff1 from which many receipts are taken with thanks4 #adg ,twaddell's ,hydrometer4 ,from #aa to #ab lbs4 sugar to the gallon should give something near this specific gravity4 #adh ,a sufficient quantity4 #adi ,about #h lbs4 loaf sugar to the gallon of water should produce this ,s4 ,g4 #aej ,an extract made from orange flowers4 #aea ,or ,butyric ,ether1 known as ,essence of ,pine-apple4 #aeb ,jargonelle ,ether4 #aec ,beware1 however1 of one compound ether1 which gives the taste of cinnamon1 and is1 ,ethyl ,perchlorate4 ,this mixture is explosive666 #aed ,raspberries4 #aee ,the form of this thanksgiving is very nearly akin to that said on the occasion of eating any of the five kinds of cooked food from which the challah is due4 #aef ,arist41 ,metaph41 i41 #c4 #aeg ,seneca1 ,nat4 ,qust41 iii41 #ac4 #aeh ,ibid41 iv41 #ac4 #aei ,pliny1 ,nat4 ,hist41 xxiii41 #bd4 #afj p4 #bbj4 #afa ,other authorities concerning this remarkable drinking fountain are ,nieremberg 7,occult4 ,philos41 ii41 #cej71 ,clavijo1 ,cairasio1 and ,dapper4 #afb ,harper's ,new ,monthly ,magazine1 xi41 p4 #dii4 #afc ,the mushroom used by the ,chukchees is described by ,lansdell1 ,through ,siberia1 ii41 #bfi1 as 8spotted like a leopard1 and surmounted by a small hood--the fly agaric1 which here has the top scarlet1 flecked with white points4 ,it sells for three or four reindeer40 ,so powerful is the fungus that the native who eats it remains drunk for several days4 ,half a dozen persons may be successively intoxicated by a single mushroom1 but every one in a less degree than his predecessor4 ,goldsmith1 ,chinese ,philosopher4 #afd ,another description is1 8,ale mixed with pepper and honey40 #afe ,quem quicunque parum moderato gutture traxit1 ,haud aliter turbat quam si mera vina bibisset4 --,ovid1 ,metam41 xv41 #cbi4 #aff ,the ,hindustani 4 #afg ,a corruption of the ,turkish ,yughurt4 #afh ,lockman's ,travels of the ,jesuits1 i41 #bah4 #afi ,p4 ,alex4 de ,rhodes1 ,voyages et ,missions4 ,p4 de ,marini1 ,on the ,kingdom of ,tonquin4 #agj ,a word which1 according to the ,glossarium ,suiogothicum1 originally meant simply bread and butter4 ,it now comprehends anchovies and other antepasts4 #aga ,so called probably from its being overgrown with fennel 7 in ,strabo1 #afj74