,illu/ration ,,textile ,,fabrics4 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration3 #hd4 ,,hood ,,( ,a ,,cope ,embroid]$ by h& 9 silks gold1 ) ! ,adoration ( ! ,magi1 bord]$ ) gre5 yell[ silk fr+e4,flemi% #af?4 c5tury4 ,,s\? ,,k5s+ton ,,museum4 ,illu/ration ,,textile ,,fabrics2 ,a ,,descriptive ,,catalogue ,( ! ,collection ( ,*ur*-ve/m5ts1 ,dresses1 ,silk ,/uffs1 ,ne$lework & ,tape/ries1 =m+ t ,section ( ! ,museum4 ,,by ,,! ,,v ,,rev4 ,,daniel ,,rock1 ,d4,d4 ,illu/ration ,publi%$ = ! ,sci5ce & ,art ,dep>tm5t ( ! ,committee ( ,c\ncil on ,education4 ,,london3 ,,*apman ,,& ,,hall1 #aic1 ,,piccadilly4 #ahgj4 ,illu/ration ,,cont5ts ,,( ,,! ,,introduction4 ,,section ,i4--,,textiles4 ,! ,geography ( ! ,raw ,mat]ials4 ,wool1 x4 ,cotton1 xiii4 ,hemp1 xiii4 ,flax1 xiii4 ,silk1 xvi4 ,gold1 xxv4 ,clo? ( ,gold1 xxv4 ,tissue1 xxxi4 ,silv]1 xxxiii4 ,wire-draw+1 xxxiii4 ,gold ?read1 xxxiv4 ,silks _h v>i\s ,names3 ,holos]icum1 xxxvii4 ,subs]icum1 xxxvii4 ,examitum1 xxxvii4 ,xamitum1 xxxvii4 ,samit1 xxxvii4 ,ciclat\n1 xxxix4 ,c5dal1 xl4 ,taffeta1 xli4 ,s>c5et1 xlii4 ,sat91 xlii4 ,cadas1 xliii4 ,camoca1 xliv4 ,clo? ( ,t>s1 xliv4 ,velvet1 xlv4 ,diap]1 xlvi4 ,*rysoclavus1 xlix4 ,/aurac91 l4 ,poly/auron1 l4 ,gammadion1 l4 ,de quadrapolo1 li4 ,de octapolo1 li4 ,de fundato1 liii4 ,/ragulatae1 liv4 ,imp]ial1 lv4 ,baudek91 lvi4 ,clo? ( ,pall1 lviii4 ,lett]$ silks1 lix4 ,! ,eagle1 lxi4 ,/yles ( ,silks4 ,*9ese1 lxiii4 ,p]sian1 lxiii4 ,byzant9e1 lxiv4 ,ori5tal1 lxv4 ,syrian1 lxv4 ,s>ac5ic1 lxvi4 ,moresco-,spani%1 lxvi4 ,places weav+ ,textiles4 ,sicily1 lxvii4 ,lucca1 lxxi4 ,g5oa1 lxxii4 ,v5ice1 lxxiii4 ,flor5ce1 lxxv4 ,milan1 lxxvi4 ,great ,brita91 lxxvi4 ,irel&1 lxxix4 ,fl&]s1 lxxix4 ,france1 lxxx4 ,cologne1 lxxxi4 ,acca or ,acre1 lxxxiii4 ,buckram1 lxxxv4 ,burdalisaund]1 lxxxv4 ,fu/ian1 lxxxvi4 ,musl91 lxxxvii4 ,clo? ( ,are/e1 lxxxvii4 ,silks di/+ui%$ ?r\gh _! ,col\rs & %ades ( ,col\r4 ,clo? ( ,t>s1 lxxxix4 ,indicus1 or sky-blue1 xc4 ,murrey1 xc4 ,*angeable1 or %ot1 xci4 ,m>ble1 xci4 ,,section ,,ii4--,,embroid]y4 ,( ! ,egyptians1 xcii4 ,( ! ,israelites1 xcii4 ,( ! ,greeks & ,lat9s1 or ,phrygionic1 xciii4 ,opus plum>ium1 or fea!r-/it*1 xcv4 ,opus pulv9>ium1 or cu%ion-/yle1 xcvi4 ,opus pect9eum1 or comb-drawn1 xcvi4 ,opus ,anglicum1 or ,engli% "w1 xcviii4 ,opus consutum1 or cut "w1 cii4 ,accessories ( gold & silv]1 civ2 glass1 cv2 enamel1 cv4 ,diap]+1 cviii4 ,?read embroid]y1 cix4 ,quilt+1 cx4 ,,section ,,iii4--,,tape/ry4 ,egyptian1 cx4 ,asiatic1 cxi4 ,engli%1 cxi4 ,flemi%1 cxii4 ,arras1 cxii4 ,s>ac5ic1 cxii4 ,imitat$ ,tape/ry--8/ayn$ clo?10 cxiv4 ,c>pets1 cxv4 ,,section ,,iv4 ,usefulness ( ! ,collection ,to ! ,hi/orian1 cxvi4 ,! miscall$ ,bayeux ,tape/ry1 cxvi4 ,,section ,v4--,,liturgy4 ,liturgical r>ities1 cxxiii4 ,,section ,,vi4 ,usefulness ( ! ,collection to ,arti/s1 cxxx4 ,manufactur]s1 cxxx4 ,,section ,,vii4 ,symbolism1 cxxxv4 ,! ,gammadion1 cxxxvii4 ,v[ ( ! ,swan1 ! ,peacock1 c41 cxli4 ,,section ,,viii4 ,usefulness ( ! ,collection ,to ,lit]ature & ,languages1 clii4 ,! ,cyrillian alphabet1 clii4 ,,section ,,ix4--,,h]aldry4 ,armorial be>+s work$ ^u ve/m5ts1 cliii4 ,! ,scrope & ,grosv5or claims = ! b5d or on a field azure1 cliii4 ,case ( ! ,c\ntess ( ,salisbury1 clv4 ,case ( ! ,e>l ( ,surrey1 clv4 ,,section ,x4--,,botany ,,& ,,zoology4 ,! giraffe1 clvi4 ,! pheasant1 clvi4 ,! *eetah1 clvi4 ,! hom1 clvii4 ,! p9e-apple1 clix4 ,! arti*oke1 clix4 ,! passion-fl[]1 clx4 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration ,,introduction4 ,l e o!r specific collection ( art lab\r among ! sev]al su* br\ght toge!r )9 ^! spl5did halls ( ! ,s\? ,k5s+ton ,museum1 ?is ext5sive "o made f wov5 /uffs1 tape/ry1 & ne$lework1 is meant to h1 l !m1 its own peculi> useful purposes4 ,"h1 at a glance1 may be read ! hi/ory ( ! loom ( v>i\s times & 9 _m l&s4 ,"h may be se5 a pro( ( ! onw>d m>* ( trade & its consequ5t civiliz+ influ5ces4 ,"h we take a peep at ! private female life 9 ages gone by1 & le>n h[ wom51 high-born & l[ly1 sp5t or r ennobl$ _m a day ( life 9 ne$lework1 n m]ely graceful b arti/ic4 ,"h1 9 f9e1 9 /rict accordance ) ! int5d$ indu/rial purposes ( ?is public in/itution1 artizans1 design]s1 & work]s 9 all k9ds ( embroid]y1 may ga!r _m an useful lesson = _! respective crafts1 9 ! r>e z well z beautiful samples set out be=e !m4 ,! mat]ials out ( :i* ! articles 9 ?is collection 7 wov51 are sev]ally wool1 hemp1 flax1 cotton1 silk1 gold1 & silv]4 ,! silk5 textures are 9 g5]al :olly s2 9 _m in/ances !y are wr\ght up along ) ei!r cotton1 or ) flax2 h5ce1 9 anci5t docum5ts1 ! di/9ction ( 8holos]icum10 all silk1 & 8subs]icum10 n all silk1 or ! w>p--t is1 ! longitud9al ?reads--( cotton or flax1 & ! wo(--t is ! cross-?reads ( silk4 ,v seldom is ! gold or ! gilt silv] wov5 into ^! textiles f\nd ^u !m 9 a solid wire-drawn =m1 b almo/ always1 aft] be+ flatt5$ v ?91 ! preci\s metal 0 w\nd ab\t a v small twi/ ( cotton1 or ( flax1 & ?us became :at we call gold ?read4 ,z a sub/itute = ?is1 ! ,moors ( ,granada1 & aft] !m ! ,spani>ds ( t k+dom1 employ$ /rips ( gild$ p>*m5t1 z we %all h to notice4 ,,section ,i4--,,textiles4 ,"u its wide/ acceptation1 ! ^w 8textile0 means e k9d ( /uff1 no matt] its mat]ial1 wr\ght 9 ! loom4 ,h5ce1 :e!r ! ?reads be spun f ! produce ( ! animal1 vegetable1 or ! m9]al k+dom--:e!r ( %eep's wool1 goats' hair1 camels' wool1 or camels' hair--:e!r ( flax1 hemp1 mall[1 ,spani% broom1 ! filam5ts drawn out ( ! leaves ( ! yucca--,adam's ne$le--& o!r plants ( ! lily & asphodel tribes ( fl[]s1 ! fibr\s coat+ ab\t pods1 or cotton2 :e!r ( ! m9]al amian?us1 ( gold1 silv]1 or ( any o!r metal1 x signifies no?+1 ! webs f su* mat]ials are textiles4 ,unlike to ^! are o!r appliances = g>m5t-mak+ 9 _m c\ntries2 & ( su* mat]ials1 n ! lea/ curi\s1 if n odd to our ideas1 is pap]1 :i* is s mu* employ$ = ! purpose by ! ,japanese4 ,at ! outset ( our subject a ^w or two may be ( good use1 ^u ,! ,geography ( ! ,raw ,mat]ials4 "o or o!r ( :i* we %all always f9d wr\ght up 9 ! textiles 9 ?is collection4 ,we w !n beg9 ) ,,wool4 ,aft] glean+ out ( ! writ+s ( ! anci5ts all !y h said ab\t ! physical geography ( ! e>?1 z f> z _! k ( x w5t1 & ca/+ our eyes ^u a map ( ! _w z kn[n ( old1 we %all see at once ! mat]ials :i* man _h at h&1 9 e clime1 = mak+ 8 articles ( dress4 ,9 all ! cold] regions ! well-furr$ sk9s ( sev]al families ( bea/s c\ld1 by ! ready help ( a ?orn = a ne$le1 & ! animal's own s9ews = ?read1 be fa%ion$1 aft] a mann]1 into ! requisites ( dress4 ,?r\gh\t by f> ! longe/ l5g? & ! wide/ bread? ( ! e>?1 %eep1 at an e>ly p]iod1 7 br$1 n s mu* = food z = raim5t4 ,at fir/1 ! locks ( wool torn away f ! animal's back by brambles1 7 ga!r$3 aft]w>ds %e>+ 0 ?\ght ( & foll[$ 9 "s c\ntries1 :ile 9 o!rs ! wool 0 n cut (f1 b pluck$ by ! h& away f ! liv+ creature1 z we le>n f ,pl9y3#a 8,oves non ubique tond5tur3 durat quibusdam 9 locis vell5di mos40 ,got 9 ei!r me?od ! fleeces 71 f ! e>lie/ times1 spun by wom5 f ! di/aff4 ,at la/ s wi%ful 7 ! gr[]s to improve ! coats ( _! lambs t !y clo!d !m 9 sk9s2 a process :i* n only f9$ ! /aple ( ! wool1 b kept x clean1 & bett] fitt$ x = be+ wa%$ & dy$1 z we are told by _m anci5t writ]s1 su* z ,horace & ! great agricultural au?ority ,v>ro4 ,9 utt]+ 8 wi% = a sweet peaceful home 9 8 old age1 ei!r at ,tibur1 or on ! banks ( ! pleasant ,gelsus1 ?us s+s ! poet3 ,dulce pellitis ovibus ,gelsi ,flum54#b ,& :at 7 ^! 8oves pellit10 or 8tect0 & 8molles10 z !y 7 call$1 9 contradi/9ction to 8hirt10 we und]/& f ,v>ro1 :o says1 8oves pellit2 qu propt] lan bonitatem1 ut sunt ,t>5-t9 et ,attic1 pellibus integuntur1 ne lana inqu9etur quo m9us vel infici rect possit1 vel lav>i ac p>>i40#c ,?is latt] v anci5t daily "w foll[$ by wom5 ( all degrees1 sp9n+ f (f ! di/aff1 0 taught to our ,anglo-,saxon si/]s among all ranks ( life1 f ! k+'s daught] d[nw>ds4 ,9 8 life ( ,eadw>d ! eld]1 ,a4,d4 #ija1 ,malmesbury writes3 8,filias suas ita in/itu]at ut lit]is omnes 9 infantia maxime vac>5t1 mox etiam colum et acum ex]c]e consuesc]5t1 ut 8 artibus pudice impubem virg9itatem transig]5t40#d ,! same occupation is ev5 n[ a female fav\rite 9 _m c\ntries on ! ,cont95t1 p>ticul>ly s all ?r\gh ,italy4 ,long ago x be/[$ ! "n ( sp9dle-tree on ! ,euonymus plant1 on acc\nt ( ! good sp9dles :i* its wood af=ds1 & orig9at$ ! t]m 8sp9/]10 yet to be f\nd 9 our law-books z mean+ an unm>ri$ woman ev5 ( ! g5tle/ blood1 :ile e n[ & !n f ! graves t held ! a%es ( our si/]s ( ! ,briti% & ! ,anglo-,saxon epo*s1 are pick$ up ! elaborately ornam5t$ lead5 :orls :i* !y fa/5$ at ! l[] end ( _! sp9dles to give !m a due weight & /ead9ess z !y twirl$ !m r\nd4 ,beg9n+ ) ! ,briti% isl&s on ! we/1 & go+ ea/w>d on a l9e runn+ ?r\gh ! ,m$it]ranean sea1 & /ret*+ itself out f> into ,asia1 we f9d t ! peoples :o dwelt to ! nor? ( su* a b\nd>y wr\ght sev]al ( _! g>m5ts out ( %eep's wool1 goats' hair1 & beav]s' fur1 :ile ^? liv+ to ! s\?1 includ+ ! inhabitants ( ,nor? ,africa1 ,arabia1 & ,p]sia1 besides ! above-nam$ animal produce1 employ$ = ^! purposes1 z well z t5t-mak+1 ! wool & hair :i* _! camels gave !m3 ! ,bapti/'s g>m5t 0 ( ! v co>se/ k9d4 ,( ! use ( wooll5 /uff1 n wov5 b plait$1 among ! old] /ock ( ! ,britons1 a curi\s in/ance 0 v lately br\ght to light :ile cutt+ ?r\gh an e>ly ,celtic grave-hill or b>r[ 9 ,york%ire3 ! dead body _h be5 wrapp$1 z 0 %[n by ! few unrott$ %r$s /ill cleav+ to its bones1 9 a wooll5 %r\d ( co>se & loose fabric wr\ght by ! plait+ process )\t a loom4#e ,z "t crept on1 x br\ght along ) x ! loom1 fa%ion$ ?\gh x 0 aft] its simple/ =m1 to ! f> we/1 & taught its use ?r\gh\t ! ,briti% isl&s4 ,! art ( dye+ v soon foll[$2 & s beautiful 7 ! t9ts :i* our ,britons knew h[ to give to _! wools1 t /rang]s1 :ile !y wond]$ at1 7 n a little jeal\s ( ! spl5d\r ( ^? tones4 ,f ! heavy /ress laid ^u ! rule :i* taught t ! (ficial col\r 9 _! dress assign$ to ea* ( ! ?ree ranks into :i* ! b>dic ord] 0 di/+ui%$1 mu/ be ( "o simple unbrok5 %ade1 :e!r spotless :ite1 symbolic ( sun-light & hol9ess1 = ! druid or prie/--:e!r sky-blue1 emblem ( peace1 = ! b>d or poet--or gre51 ! liv]y ( ! wood & field1 = ! ,ovydd or tea*] ( natural hi/ory & lee*-craft1 yet at ! same mom5t we "k t p>ty-col\r$ /uffs 7 wov5 "h1 & aft] two =ms3 ! po/ulants ask+ leave to be admitt$ into b>dism might be recogniz$ by ! robe b>r$ ) /ripes ( :ite1 blue1 & gre51 :i* !y _h to we> dur+ all ! t]m ( _! initiation4 ,) reg>d to ! bulk ( our p1 accord+ to ! ,greek hi/orian ( ,rome--,dion ,cassius1 born ,a4,d4 #aee--! g>m5ts worn by !m 7 made ( a texture wr\ght 9 a squ>e patt]n ( sev]al col\rs2 & speak+ ( our brave-he>t$ ,briti% que51 ,boadicea1 t same writ] tells u t %e usually _h on1 "u h] cloak1 a motley tunic1 1 t is1 *eck]$ all ov] ) _m col\rs4 ,?is g>m5t we are fairly w>rant$ 9 deem+ to h be5 a native /uff1 wov5 ( wor/$ aft] a patt]n 9 t9ts & design exactly l "o or o!r ( ! pres5t ,scot* plaids4 ,pl9y1 :o seems to h ga!r$ a great deal ( 8 natural hi/ory f scraps ( he>say1 mo/ likely includ$ ^! anci5t sorts ( ,briti% textiles along ) ^? f ,gaul1 :5 he wrote3--8,plurimis v]o liciis tex]e qu polymita appellant1 ,alex&ria in/ituit3 scutullis divid]e1 ,gallia40 ,b to weave ) a good numb] ( ?reads1 s z to "w ! clo?s call$ polymita1 0 fir/ taught 9 ,alex&ria2 to divide by *ecks1 9 ,gaul4#f #a ,lib4 viii4 c4 #dg4 #b ,lyric4 c4 vi4 vi4 #c ,de ,re ,ru/ica1 ii4 #b4 #d ,ge/a ,regum ,anglorum1 t4 #a4 lib4 ii4 p4 #aih1 ed4 ,h>dy4 #e ,j\rnal ( ! ,ar*ological ,in/itute1 t4 ,,xxii4 p4 #bed4 #f ,pl94 lib4 viii4 ,! native botanical home ( ,,cotton is 9 ! ,ea/4 ,india almo/ ev]y:]e ?r\gh\t h] wide-spread c\ntries1 & _m k+doms ( old1 array$1 z %e /ill arrays h]self1 9 cotton1 :i* %e ga!r$ f a plant ( ! mall[ family1 t _h its wild gr[? !re2 & 9 ?is same vegetable produce ! l[] ord]s ( ! p dwell+ /ill fur!r to ! ea/ 7 fa9 to clo! !mselves4 ,,hemp1 a plant ( ! nettle tribe1 & call$ by botani/s 8cannabis sativa10 0 ( old well kn[n 9 ! f> nor? ( ,g]many1 & all ov] ! anci5t ,sc&9avia4 ,full two ?\s& five hundr$ ye>s ago1 ,h]odotus#g ?us wrote ( x3 8,hemp gr[s 9 ! c\ntry ( ! ,scy?ians1 :i* except 9 ! ?ickness & height ( ! /alk1 v mu* resembles flax2 9 ! qualities m5tion$1 h[ev]1 ! hemp is mu* sup]ior4 ,x gr[s 9 a wild /ate1 & is also cultivat$4 ,! ,?racians make clo?+ ( x v l l95 clo?2 nor c\ld any p]son1 )\t be+ v well acqua9t$ ) ! sub/ance1 say :e!r ?is clo?+ is made ( hemp or flax40 ,f 8cannabis10 its "n 9 ,lat91 h we tak5 our own ^w 8canvas10 to mean any texture wov5 ( hemp5 ?read4 #g ,h]od4 book iv4 #gd4 ,,flax n[ foll[s4 ,:o t has ev] se5 gr[+ a pat* ( beautiless1 sad-look+ hemp1 & z he w&]$ a few /eps fur!r1 came ^u a field ( flax all 9 fl[]1 ) its gracefully-droop$ head1 /rew+ ! breeze1 z x /ray$ ov] x1 ) its frail1 light-blue petals1 c\ld at fir/ h ?\ght t bo? ^! plants 7 ab\t to yield su* k9dr$ helps = man 9 8 wide v>iety ( wants8 ,yet s x is4 ,besides _m o!r c\ntries1 all ov] ?is our native l& flax is to be f\nd gr[+ wild4 ,?\gh e summ] its h&some bloom mu/ h caught ! eye ( our ,celtic ,briti% =efa!rs1 !y 7 n aw>e = ages ( ! use ( ?is plant = clo?+ purposes1 else _h !y left beh9d !m "s %r$ ( l95 9 "o or o!r ( _! _m graves2 s9ce1 foll[+1 z !y did1 ! usage ( be+ buri$ 9 ! be/ ( ! g>m5ts !y 7 accu/om$ to1 or mo/ lov$ :5 alive1 _! bodies w\ld h be5 f\nd array$ 9 "s small article ( l95 texture1 _h !y ev] worn su*4 ,t at l5g? !y became acqua9t$ ) its usefulness1 & le>n$ to prep>e & sp9 x1 is c]ta92 & 9 all likelihood ! v "n 8l9-:ite ?read10 :i* ^? ,celts gave x 9 its wr\ght %ape1 furni%$ ! ,greeks ) _! ^w 1 & ! ,lat9s _! l9um1 = l954 ,! t]m 8flax10 :i* we /ill keep1 f ! ,anglo-,saxon tongue1 = ! plant itself & its raw mat]ial1 & ! ,celtic 8l9510 = ! same vegetable produce :5 spun & wov5 into clo?1 are words = ?+s ak9 9 our pres5t language1 :i*1 z 9 _m su* l in/ances1 %[ ! footpr9ts ( ^? races t1 "o aft] ano!r1 h trod ?is l&4 99 99 99 99 99 ,to ! valley ( ! ,nile mu/ we g if we wi% to le>n ! e>lie/ hi/ory ( ! f9e/ flax5 textiles4 ,"t out ( m9d 7 ! ,egyptians fam\s z well = ! gr[? ( flax1 z = ! beautiful v f9e l95 !y wove out ( x1 & :i* became to !m a mo/ pr(itable1 because s widely s\ght =1 article ( comm]ce4 ,_! own ^w1 8byssus10 = ! plant itself1 became among ! ,greeks1 & aft]w>ds among ! ,lat9 nations1 ! t]m = l95s wr\ght 9 ,egyptian looms4 ,long be=e ! olde/ book 9 ! _w 0 writt51 ! till]s ( ! gr\nd all ov] ,egypt _h be5 he$ful 9 s[+ _! flax1 & anxi\s ab\t its h>ve/4 ,x 0 "o ( _! /aple crops1 & h5ce 0 x t1 9 puni%m5t ( _! h>d-he>t$ ,ph>aoh1 ! hail plague :i*1 at ! bidd+ ( ,moses1 %[]$ d[n f heav51 hurt ?r\gh\t ! l& ! flax j z x 0 gett+ ripe4#h ,?\gh ! ,jordan grew flax ^u its banks1 & all ov] ! l& t w\ld soon belong to ,abraham's *ildr51 ! wom5 !re1 l ,rahab1 c>efully dri$ x :5 pull$1 & /ack$ x = future hackl+ ^u ! ro(s ( _! h\ses2#i /ill1 x 0 f ,egypt1 z ,solomon h9ts1#aj t ! ,jews _h to draw _! f9e l954 ,at a lat] p]iod1 among ! woes =etold to ,egypt1 ! prophet ,isaiah w>ns h] t !y %all be conf\nd$ :o wr\ght 7!re7 9 comb+ & weav+ f9e l954#aa #h ,exodus ix4 #ca4 #i ,jo%ua ii4 #f4 #aj ,prov]bs vii4 #af4 #aa ,isaiah xix4 #i4 ,h[ f> ! reputation ( ,egyptian workman%ip 9 ! craft ( ! loom _h spread abroad is %[n u by ! way 9 :i*1 beside sacr$1 hea!ni% antiquity has spok5 ( x4 ,h]odotus says3--8,amasis ,k+ ( ,egypt gave to ! ,m9]va ( ,l9dus1 a l95 corslet well wor?y ( inspection10#ab & fur!r on1#ac tell+ ( ano!r corslet :i* ,amasis _h s5t ! ,lac$monians1 obs]ves t x 0 ( l951 & _h a va/ numb] ( figures ( animals inwov5 into its fabric1 & 0 likewise embroid]$ ) gold & tree-wool4 ,:at is m wor?y ( admiration 9 x is t ea* ( ! twi/s1 al?\gh ( f9e texture1 conta9s )9 x #cfj ?reads1 all ( !m cle>ly visible4#ad ,by ^! tru/wor?y evid5ces we cle>ly see t 9 ^? e>ly times1 ,egypt 0 n only widely kn[n = its delicately wov5 byssus1 b x suppli$ all ! neighb\r+ nations ) ! f9e/ sort ( l95s4 #ab ,h]odotus1 b4 ii4 c4 #ahb1 ,rawl9son's ,translation1 t4 ii4 p4 #bge4 #ac ,ib4 b4 iii4 c4 #dg4 #ad ,h]odotus1 t4 ii4 pp4 #ddb-dc4 ,f writt5 let u n[ g to mat]ial pro(s at h&4 ,dur+ late ye>s _m mummies h be5 br\ght to ?is c\ntry f ,egypt1 & ! n>r[ b&ages ) :i* !y 7 f\nd to h be5 s admirably1 ev5 accord+ to our mod]n requirem5ts ( *irurgical fitness1 s arti/ically swa!d1 h be5 unwrapp$2 & always h !y be5 s f9e 9 _! texture z to fully v]ify ! praises ( old be/[$ ^u ! beauty ( ! ,egyptian loom-"w4 ,moreov]1 f ^? :o h tak5 a ne>] &1 s to say1 a trade-l insight into su* an article ( manufacture1 we le>n t1 8,! f9e/ piece ( mummy-clo?1 s5t to ,engl& by ,mr4 ,salt1 & n[ 9 ! ,briti% ,museum1 ( l951 appe>s to be made ( y>ns ( ne> #ajj hanks 9 ! p\nd1 ) #adj ?reads 9 an in* 9 ! w>p & ab\t #fd 9 ! wo(40#ae ,ano!r piece ( l95 :i* ! same di/+ui%$ travell] obta9$ at ,!bes1 has #aeb ?reads 9 ! w>p1 & #ga 9 ! wo(4#af #ae 8,anci5t ,egypt10 by ,sir ,g>d9] ,wilk9son1 t4 iii4 p4 #abb4 #af ,ib4 p4 #abe4 ,"h />ts up a curi\s "q4 ,?\gh1 f all antiquity upw>ds till )9 "s few ye>s back1 ! unbrok5 belief _h be5 t su* mummy-clo?+ 0 und\bt$ly made ( l95 wov5 out ( pure unmix$ flax1 "s writ]s l$1 or r misl$1 by a few /ray words 9 ,h]odotus ab\t tree-wool1 :ile speak+ ( ! corslet ( ,amasis1 quot$ j n[1 took at once ! expression ( t hi/orian to mean wool1 & !n skipp$ to ! conclusion t all ,egyptian textiles wr\ght a ?\s& ye>s be=e 7 mix$ ) cotton4 ,:51 h[ev]1 x be borne 9 m9d t ev5 sev]al hundr$ ye>s aft] ! ,greek hi/orian wrote1 ! common belief exi/$ t1 l cotton1 silk also 0 ! gr[? ( a tree1 z we are told by ,virgil3 ,quid nemora ?iopum1 molli can5tia lana ,vell]aque ut foliis depectant t5uia ,s]es8#ag ,s(t wool f d[ny groves ! ?iop weaves1 ,& ,s]es comb _! silk5 fleece f leaves-- ! ( ,h]odotus may be und]/ood to mean silk1 j z well z cotton2 nay1 ! r s1 z x seems v likely t1 at ! "t :5 ,amasis liv$1 silk1 9 ! %ape ( ?read1 _h f\nd1 ?r\gh trad]s' h&s1 its way to ! m>kets ( ,egypt1 & mu/ h be5 ?\ght a m fitt+ ?+1 f be+ a new z well z co/ly mat]ial1 to grace a royal gift to a religi\s sanctu>y ( high repute1 ?an ! less preci\s & m common cotton4 ,:ile ?is "q 0 agitat$1 specim5s ( mummy-clo? 7 submitt$ to ! judgm5t ( sev]al p]sons 9 ! weav+ trade deem$ mo/ compet5t to speak ^u ! matt]4 ,help$ only by ! f+]s' feel & ! nak$ eye1 "s among !m agre$ t su* textures 7 really wov5 ( cotton4 ,?is op9ion 0 b %ortliv$4 ,o!r individuals1 m philosophical1 w5t to "w on a bett] pa?4 ,9 ! fir/ place1 !y cle>ly le>n$1 ?r\gh ! microscope1 ! exact & nev]-v>y+ physical /ructure ( bo? ^! vegetable sub/ances4 ,t ( cotton !y f\nd 9 its ultimate fibre to be a transp>5t tube )\t jo9ts1 flatt5$ s t its inw>d surfaces are 9 contact along its axis1 & also twi/$ spirally r\nd its axis2 t ( flax1 a transp>5t tube1 jo9t$ l a cane1 & n flatt5$ or twi/$ spirally4#ah ,exam9$ 9 ! same way1 sev]al old samples ( byssus or mummy-b&ages f ,egypt 9 e "o in/ance 7 asc]ta9$ to be ( f9e unmix$ flax5 l954 ,ages be=e ,fr5* ,fl&]s _h dream$ ( weav+ f9e lawns1 ages be=e "o ( h] indu/rial cities--,cambray--_h s f> tak5 ! lead z to be all[$ to be/[ h] own "n1 9 ! %ape ( 8cambric10 on ! f9e/ k9d t mod]n ,european +5uity c\ld produce1 ,egypt _h kn[n h[ to give to ! _w ev5 a yet f9] sort1 & c5turies aft] %e _h fall5 away f h] place among ! k+doms ( ! e>?1 h] en?rall$ p /ill kept up _! anci5t sup]iority 9 sp9n+ & weav+ _! f9e1 sometimes transp>5t1 byssus1 ( :i* a specim5 or two may be se5 9 ?is collection4#ai #ag ,georg4 lib4 ii4 #abj-aba4 #ah ,?omson 9 ! ,philosophical ,magaz9e1 #crd s]ies1 t4 v4 num4 #bi1 ,nov4 #ahcd4 #ai ,no4 #aeb4 ,= _m reasons ! hi/ory ( ,,silk is n only curi\s1 b highly int]e/+4 ,9 ! e>ly ages1 its v exi/5ce 0 q unkn[n1 & :5 f\nd out1 ! k ( x /ole =? f ! f> ea/1 & /raggl$ we/w>d v v sl[ly4 ,= all t l5g!n$ p]iod dur+ :i* _! rem>kable civilization la/$1 ! old] ,egyptians nev] once beheld silk3 nei!r !y1 nor ! ,israelites1 nor any o!r ( ! mo/ anci5t k+doms ( ! e>?1 knew ( x 9 any %ape1 ei!r z a simple twi/1 or z a wov5 /uff4 ,n ! smalle/ %r$ ( silk has hi!rto be5 f\nd 9 ! tombs1 or amid ! ru9s ( ! ,ph>aonic p]iod4 ,no :]e does ,holy ,writ1 old or new1 tell any?+ ( silk b 9 "o s+le place1 ! ,apocalypse1 xviii4 #ab4 ,true x is t1 9 ! ,engli% au?oriz$ v]sion1 we read ( 8silk0 z if spok5 ( by ,ezekiel1 xvi4 #aj1 #ac2 & aga91 9 ,prov]bs1 xxxi4 #bb2 yet !re c be no d\bt1 b t 9 bo? ^! passages1 ! ^w silk is wrong ?r\gh ! translators misund]/&+ ! orig9al ,hebrew 7mes*i74 ,( ?is ^w1 ,p>khur/ says3 8,z a n\n1 1 accord+ to our translation 7is7 silk1 b n s r5d]$ 9 any ( ! anci5t v]sions4 ,silk w\ld inde$ well en\gh answ] ! ideal mean+ ( ! ,hebrew ^w1 f its be+ drawn =? f ! b[els ( ! silk-worm1 & t to a degree ( f95ess1 s z to =m v sl5d] ?reads4 ,b ,i meet ) no evid5ce t ! ,israelites 9 v e>ly times 7& to ^! ,ezekiel ref]s7 _h any k ( silk1 mu* less ( ! mann] 9 :i* x 0 =m$2 1 !re=e1 ,i ?9k1 means "s k9d ( f9e l95 or cotton clo?1 s d5om9at$ f ! f95ess ) :i* ! ?reads :]e( x consi/$ 7 drawn out4 ,! ,vulgate1 by r5d]+ x 9 ! =m] passage1 #8subtilibus' f9e1 z oppos$ to co>se1 has ne>ly pres]v$ ! true idea ( ! ,hebrew40#bj ,braunius1 too1 no mean au?ority1 aft] be/[+ a great deal ( /udy on ! matt]1 gives x z 8 well-weigh$ judgm5t t1 ?r\gh\t ! :ole ,hebrew ,bible1 no m5tion :atev] c be f\nd ( silk1 :i* 0 a mat]ial utt]ly unkn[n to ! *ildr5 ( ,israel4#ba ,once only is silk spok5 ( 9 ! ,new ,te/am5t1 & !n :ile ,/4 ,john#bb is reckon+ x up along ) ! gold1 & silv]1 & preci\s /ones1 & pe>ls1 & f9e l95--byssus--& purple :i*1 ) _m o!r co/ly freights m]*ants 7 wont to br+ 9 %ips to t mighty city :i*1 9 ! ,apo/le's days1 rul$ ov] ! k+s ( ! e>?4 #bj ,hebrew & ,engli% ,lexicon4 ,london1 #ahac1 p4 #dae4 #ba ,de ,ve/itu ,heb4 ,sac41 lib4 ,i4 cap4 viii4 #h4 #bb ,apoc4 xviii4 #ab4 ,long aft] ! days ( ,ezekiel 0 x t silk1 9 its raw =m only1 made up into hanks1 fir/ f\nd its way to ,egypt1 we/]n ,asia1 & ea/]n ,europe4 ,to ,ari/otle d we owe ! e>lie/ notice1 among ! anci5ts1 ( ! silk-worm1 & al?\gh 8 acc\nt be incorrect1 x has mu* value1 s9ce1 along ) 8 description1 ! celebrat$ ,greek philosoph] gives u in=mation ab\t ! orig9al importation ( raw silk into ! we/]n _w4 ,br\ght f ,*9a1 ?r\gh ,india1 till x rea*$ ! ,indus1 ! silk came by wat] across ! ,arabian ,ocean1 up ! ,r$ ,sea1 & !nce ov] ! ,i/hmus ( ,suez1 or1 p]haps1 r by ! ov]l& r\te1 ?r\gh ,p]sia1 to ! small b comm]cial isl& ( ,cos 7n[ ,koss71 ly+ (f ! coa/ ( ,asia ,m9or4 ,pamphile1 daught] ( ,plates1 is report$ to h fir/ wov5 x 7silk7 9 ,cos4#bc ,"h1 by female h&s1 7 wr\ght ^? light ?9 gauzes :i* became s fa%ionable among "s high dames1 b :ile s (t5 spok5 ( by ! poets ( ! ,augu/an p]iod1 7 /igmatiz$ by "s among !m1 z well z by ! hea!n morali/s ( aft] ages1 z any?+ b seemly = wom5's we>4 ,?us ,tibullus says ( ?is sort ( clo?+3 ,illa g]at ve/es t5ues1 quas fm9a ,coa ,texuit1 auratas disposuitque vias4#bd ,%e may ?9 g>m5ts we>1 :i* female ,coan h&s ,h wov51 & 9 /ripes dispos$ ! gold5 b&s4 ,ye>s aft]w>ds1 ?us lam5ts ,s5eca1 ! philosoph]3 8,video s]icas ve/es1 si ve/es voc& sunt1 9 quibus nihil e/1 quo def5di aut corpus aut d5ique pudor possit40 ,i behold silk5 g>m5ts1 if g>m5ts !y c be call$1 :i* are a protection nei!r = ! body nor = %ame4#be ,& lat] /ill1 & 9 ! ,*ri/ian era1 an e*o to ! rem>ks ( ,s5eca d we he> 9 ! words ( ,sol9us3 8,hoc illud e/ s]icum 9 quo o/5t>e potius corpora qum ve/ire1 prim fem9is1 nunc etiam viris p]suasit luxuri libido40#bf ,?is is silk1 9 :i* at fir/ wom5 b n[ ev5 m5 h be5 l$1 by _! crav+s aft] luxury1 to %[ r ?an to clo! _! bodies4 #bc ,hi/4 ,anim4 ,v4 c4 #ai1 p4 #hej1 ed4 ,duval4 #bd ,tibullus1 l4 ii4 #f4 #be ,de ,b5eficiis1 l4 vii4 c4 #bf ,sol9us1 c4 #a4 ,:ile look+ ov] "s preci\s e>ly m$ival ,,ms41 (t5 d we yet f9d t its beautifully limn$ & ri*ly gilt illum9ations1 to keep !m f h>m1 or be+ hurt ?r\gh ! rubb+s ( ! next leaf1 h fa/5$ beside !m a cov]+ ( ! ?9ne/ gauze1 j z we put 9 %eets ( silv] pap] = t purpose ov] engrav+s4 ,! likelihood is t "s at lea/ ( ^! may be %r$s f "s ( ^? ?9 transluc5t textiles :i* f\nd su* fav\r 9 ! fa%ionable _w = s long a "t dur+ ! classic p]iod4 ,to "s at lea/ ( our read]s1 ! curi\s example ( su* gauzy int]leaf+s 9 ! manuscript ( ,!odulph1 n[ at ,puy en ,velay1 w occur4 ,n only ^! transp>5t silk5 gauzes wr\ght 9 ,cos1 b f> m ta/y /uffs1 & fl[]$ too1 f ,*9ese looms1 f\nd _! way to ,asia ,m9or & ,italy4 ,9 tell+ ( ! b>b>\s nations !n call$ ! ,s]es1 ,dionysius ,p]iegetes writes t !y comb ! v>i\sly col\r$ fl[]s ( ! des]t l& to make preci\s figur$ g>m5ts1 resembl+ 9 col\r ! fl[]s ( ! mead[1 & rivall+ 79 f95ess7 ! "w ( spid]s4#bg ,z may be easily imag9$1 silk5 g>m5ts 7 br\ght1 at an e>ly p]iod1 to imp]ial ,rome4 ,su*1 h[ev]1 7 ! high prices ask$ = !m1 t few ei!r w\ld or c\ld af=d to buy ^! robes = _! wives & daught]s2 s9ce1 at fir/1 !y 7 look$ ^u z q unbecom+ = m5's we>2 h5ce1 by a law ( ! ,roman s5ate "u ,tib]ius1 x 0 enact$3 8,ne ve/is s]ica vicos fd>et40 ,:ile notic+ h[ womani% ,caligula became 9 8 dress1 ,suetonius rem>ks 8 silk5 attire3 8,aliqu&o s]icatus et cycladatus40#bh ,an exception 0 made by "s emp]ors = v great occasions1 & bo? ,titus & ,vespasian wore dresses ( silk :5 !y celebrat$ at ,rome _! triumph ov] ,juda4 ,( ! emp]ors :o adopt$ :ole silk = _! clo?+1 ,heliogabalus 0 ! fir/1 & s fond 0 he ( ! mat]ial1 t1 9 ! ev5t ( wi%+ to hang himself1 he _h got = ! occasion a rope1 "o /r& ( :i* 0 silk1 & ! o!r two dy$ ) purple & sc>let3 8,p>av]at sunes1 blatta et s]ico1 et cocco intortos1 quibus si necesse esset1 laqueo vitam f9iret40#bi ,! abnegation ( ano!r ,roman ,emp]or1 ,aurelian1 bo? 9 respect ( himself & 8 empress1 is1 h[ev]1 v rem>kable3 8,ve/em holos]icam neque ipse 9 ve/i>io suo habuit neque alt]i ut5dam d$it4 ,et cum ab eo uxor sua pet]et1 ut unico pallio blatteo s]ico ut]etur1 ille respondit absit1 ut auro fila p5s5tur4 ,libra enim auri tunc libra s]ici suit40#cj ,aurelian nei!r _h himself 9 8 w>drobe a g>m5t :olly silk1 nor gave "o to be worn by ano!r4 ,:5 8 own wife begg$ him to all[ h] to h a s+le mantle ( purple silk1 he repli$1 8,f> be x f u to all[ ?read to be reckon$ wor? its weight 9 gold40 ,= !n a p\nd ( gold 0 ! price ( a p\nd ( silk4 ,"h x ought to be m5tion$ t1 = "s "t be=e ?is p]iod a v broad di/9ction _h be5 drawn1 ev5 9 ! sumptu>y laws ( ! empire1 betwe5 g>m5ts made :olly1 & p>tially ( silk2 9 ! =m]1 all ! web1 bo? wo( & w>p1 is wov5 ( no?+ b silk2 9 ! latt]1 ! wo( is ( cotton or ( ?read1 ! w>p only ( silk4 ,?is diff]5ce 9 ! texture is ?us well set =? by ,lampridius1 9 8 life ( ,alex&] ,sev]us1 ( :om he says3 he _h few g>m5ts ( silk--he nev] wore a tunic wov5 :olly ( silk1 & he nev] gave away clo? made ( silk mix$ ) less valuable /uff4 8,ve/es s]icas ipse r>as habuit2 holos]icas nunquam induit subs]icam nunquam donavit40#ca #bg ,quot$ by ,yates1 ,textr9um ,antiquorum1 p4 #aha4 #bh ,suetonius1 c4 #eb4 #bi ,lampridius1 c4 #bf4 #cj ,vopiscus1 c4 #de4 #ca ,sev]us1 c4 #dj4 ,clo?+ made :olly or 9 "p out ( silk1 became e ye> m & m s\ght =4 ,s remun]ative 0 ! trade ( weav+ ! raw mat]ial into its v>i\s =ms1 t1 by ! ,ju/9ian p&ects1 ! revis$ code ( laws = ! ,roman ,empire1 drawn up & publi%$ ,a4,d4 #ecc--;a monopoly 9 x 0 giv5 to ! c\rt1 & looms work$ by wom5 7 set up 9 ! imp]ial palace4 ,?us ,byzantium became1 & long cont9u$ fam\s = ! beauty ( its silk5 /uffs4 ,/ill1 ! raw silk itself _h to be br\ght ?i!r f abroad2 b a rem$y 0 v ne> at h&4 ,two ,greek monks1 :ile sp5d+ _m ye>s among ! ,*9ese1 _h well le>n$ ! :ole process ( re>+ ! worm4 ,!y came home1 & br\ght back ) !m a goodly numb] ( eggs hidd5 9 _! walk+-/aves1 likely made ( t holl[ t\gh sort ( re$ or tall grass1 ! ,arundo ,donax2 &1 c>ry+ !m to ,con/ant9ople1 !y pres5t$ ^! eggs to ! ,emp]or1 :o gladly receiv$ !m4 ,:5 hat*$1 ! worms 7 di/ribut$ all ov] ,greece & ,asia ,m9or1 & v soon ! we/]n _w re>$ its own silk4 ,n long aft]w>ds1 ,p]sia & ,india also became silk-gr[+ c\ntries4 ,9 "s places1 at lea/ 9 ,greece1 ! weav+ n only ( ! f9] k9ds ( clo?1 b ( silk1 got at la/ into ! h&s ( ! ,jews4 ,writ+ ( 8 travels1 ,a4,d4 #aafa1 ,b5jam9 ( ,tudela tells u t ! great city ( ,!bes conta9$ ab\t two ?\s& ,jewi% inhabitants4 ,^! are ! mo/ em95t manufactur]s ( silk & purple clo? 9 all ,greece4#cb ,tell+ u h[ ! fleet ( our fir/ ,ri*>d coa/$ ! %ores ( ,spa9 on its voyage to ! ,holy ,l&1 ,hov$5 says ( ,alm]ia & its silk factory3 8,de9de p] nobilem civitatem qu dicitur ,alm>ia ubi fit nobile s]icum et delicatum quod dicitur s]icum de ,alm>ia40#cc ,s priz$ 7 ^! f9e delicate textiles t !y 7 paid z tribute to pr9ces3 8,insula de ,maiore r$dit ei 7regi ,arragoni7 trec5tos pannos s]icos de ,alm>ia p] annum de tributo10 c4#cd #cb ,e>ly ,travels 9 ,pale/9e1 ed4 ,t4 ,wright1 p4 #ga4 #cc ,rog4 ,hov$51 ,ann4 ed4 ,savile1 ,r]4 ,ang4 ,script41 p4 #chb4 #cd ,ib4 p4 #chb1 b4 ,s\? ,italy wr\ght ri* silk5 /uffs by ! end ( ! elev5? c5tury2 = we are told by our c\ntryman1 ,ord]icus ,vitalis1 :o di$ 9 ! fir/ half ( ! twelf? c5tury1 t ,ma9]ius1 ! abbot ( 8 mona/]y ( ,/4 ,evr\l1 at ,uzey1 9 ,norm&y1 on com+ home1 br\ght ) him f ,apulia sev]al l>ge pieces ( silk1 & gave to ! ,*ur* f\r ( ! f9e/ ones1 ) :i* f\r copes 7 made = ! *ant]s3 8,de pallis quas ipse de ,apulia detul]at quatuor de preciosioris ,s4 ,ebrulfo obtulit ex quibus quatuor capp cantorum 9 eadem fact sunt ecclesia40#ce #ce ,ord]icus ,vitalis1 ,ecc4 ,hi/41 l4 v4 p4 #ehd4 ,f a feel+ alive 9 e he>t ?r\gh\t ! l5g? & bread? ( ,*ri/5dom t ! be/ ( all ?+s ought to be giv5 = ! s]vice ( its religi\s rites1 ! g>m5ts ( its celebrat+ prie/hood1 f ! f> ea/ to ! utt]mo/ we/1 71 if n always1 at lea/ v (t5 :olly ( silk--holos]icus4 ,to ?is fact we h po9t$ = ! sake ( rememb]+ t 7 x n s1 we _h be51 at ?is day1 )\t ! p[] ( be+ able to see ?r\gh ! few b tatt]$ %r$s be=e u1 :at elegantly design$ & gorge\s /uffs ! =eign m$ival loom c\ld weave1 & :at beautiful embroid]y our own c\ntrywom5 knew s well h[ to "w4 ,^! specim5s help u also to rightly und]/& ! description ( ^? spl5did ve/m5ts & ritual appliances enum]at$ ) su* exactness 9 ! old inv5tories ( our v5]able ca!drals & p>i% *ur*es z well z ! e>ly w>drobe accompts ( our k+s1 ! wills & beque/s ( our dignifi$ ecclesia/ics & nobility1 to "s ( :i* docum5ts we %all h to ref] a little lat]4 ,9 com+ we/w>d among u1 all ^! s mu* covet$ /uffs br\ght along ) !m _! own sev]al names by :i* !y 7 commonly kn[n ?r\gh\t ! ea/1 :e!r ,greece1 ,asia ,m9or1 or ,p]sia4 ,h5ce :5 we read ( ,samit1 ciclat\n1 c5dal1 baudek91 & o!r su* t]ms q unkn[n to trade n[-a-day1 we %\ld be> 9 m9d t not)/&+ ! wide v>iety ( spell+1 or r misspell+1 ea* ( ^! appellations has run ?r\gh1 we rea* at la/ _! true d]ivations1 & s happily get to "k 9 :at c\ntry & by ^: h&s !y 7 wr\ght4 ,z trade grew up1 %e br\ght ^! f9e silk5 textiles to our m>kets1 & articles ( dress 7 made ( silk = m5's z well z wom5's we> among ! weal?y4 ,at :at p]iod ! raw mat]ial came to be import$ "h1 n s mu* = embroid]y z to be wr\ght 9 ! loom1 we d n exactly "k2 b f sev]al sides we le>n t our c\ntrywom5 ( all degrees busi$ !mselves 9 weav+4 ,among ! home occupations ( maid5s d$icat$ to ,god1 ,/4 ,aldhelm1 at ! end ( ! sev5? c5tury1 seems to numb]3 8,cort9>um sive /ragul>um textura40#cf ,9 ! c\ncil at ,clove%oo1 "u ,ar*bi%op ,cu?b]t1 ,a4,d4 #gdg1 nuns are exhort$ to sp5d _! "t 9 read+ or s++ psalms r ?an weav+ & knitt+ va+lori\s g>m5ts ( _m col\rs3 8,magisque leg5dis libris vel can5dis psalmis1 quam tex5dis et plect5dis v>io colore inanis glori ve/ibus /udeant op]am d>e40#cg ,by t curi\s old ,engli% book1 ! 8,ancr5 ,riwle10 writt5 t[>ds ! end ( ! twelf? c5tury1 ankresses are =bidd5 to make purses to ga9 fri5ds !re)1 or blodb5des4#ch ,7 x n t ! weav+ especially ( silk1 0 s g5]ally foll[$ 9 ! cloi/] by ,engli% wom51 x _h be5 useless to h s /rongly disc\nt5anc$ ! practice4 #cf ,de ,laudibus ,virg9itatis1 ,opp4 ed4 ,giles1 #ae4 #cg ,concil4 ,ecc4 ,brit4 ed4 ,spelman1 i4 #bef4 #ch ,p4 #dba4 ,^? 8blodb5des10 or n>r[ /rips = w9d+ r\nd ! arm aft] ble$+1 are curi\sly illu/rative ( an old national cu/om = heal?-sake kept up 9 ! remembrance ( "s old folks /ill liv+1 ( p]iodical blood-lett+4 ,to 8 practices ^u ! heads & *9s ( p ! b>b] at no remote p]iod1 add$ t ( ble$+ !m2 & ! old ,engli% b>b] surgeons held a high position among ! gilds ( ,london4 ,to %[ :]e he liv$ ea* memb] ( t bro!rhood _h hang+ out f ! walls ( 8 h\se a long ?9 pole pa9t$ spirally black & :ite1 ! :ite 9 tok5 ( ! blodb5de or b&age to be w9d$ & kept ab\t ! pati5t's arm4 ,b on silk weav+ by our wom5 9 small h&-looms1 a v important witness1 especially ab\t sev]al curi\s specim5s 9 ?is collection1 is ,john ,g>l&1 born at ! beg9n+ ( ! ?irte5? c5tury 9 ,london1 :]e 8 namesakes & likely ( 8 /ock1 7 & are kn[n4 ,fir/1 a ,john ,g>l&1 ,a4,d4 #aagj1 held a preb5d's /all 9 ,/4 ,paul's ,ca!dral4#ci ,ano!r1 ,a4,d4 #abaa1 0 %]iff1 at a lat] p]iod4#dj ,a ?ird1 a weal?y drap] ( ,london1 gave freely t[>ds ! build+ ( a *ur* 9 ,som]set%ire4#da ,a f\r?1 :o di$ ,a4,d4 #adfa1 lies buri$ 9 ,/4 ,sy!'s2#db &1 at ! pres5t day1 no few] ?an tw5ty-two trades-m5 ( t "n1 ( :om six are m]*ants ( high /&+ 9 ! city1 are m5tion$ 9 ! ,london ,po/ ,(fice ,directory = ?is ye> #ahfh4 ,we give ^! in/ances z "s h tri$ to rob u ( ,john ,g>l& by say+ he 0 n an ,engli%man1 ?\gh ( himself he _h said3 8,anglia cui mat] fu]at1 cui gallia nutrix10 c4 #ci ,dugdale's ,/4 ,paul's1 p4 #bfd4 #dj ,lib] de ,antiq4 ,legibus1 pp4 #c1 #bbc4 #da ,lel&'s ,it9]>y1 t4 #g1 p4 #ii4 #db ,/[e's ,survey1 ,b4 iii4 p4 #ca4 ,9 a sort ( v %ort diction>y1 drawn up by t writ]1 & pr9t$ at ! end ( 8,p>is s\s ,philippe ,le ,bel10 edit$ by ,m4 ,h4 ,g]aud1 our c\ntryman says3 8,textrices qu texunt s]ica texta projiciunt fila aurata (ficio cavill>um et p]cuciunt subtem9a cum l9ea 7lignea87 spata3 de textis v]o fiunt c+ula et cr9alia divitum muli]um et /ole sac]dotum40#dc ,?\gh %ort1 ?is passage is curi\s & valuable4 ,f x we le>n t1 besides ! usual homely textiles1 ^? m co/ly clo?-(-gold webs 7 wr\ght by our wom51 & v likely1 among _! o!r productions--c+ula--7 ^? 8blodb5des10 ! weav+ ( :i* _h be5 =bidd5 to ankresses & nuns2 p]haps1 too1 ( ^? n>r[ gold-wr\ght ribbons 9 ?is collection1 pp4 #bd1 #cc1 #ch1 #bag1 #bah1 #bai1 #bba1 c41 "s may h be5 s employ$ by our high-born dames on occasion ( _! be+ bl$1 s9ce z late z ! sixte5? c5tury "s seasons 7 deem$ fit1 o!rs q unfitt+ = ! op]ation4 ,h5ce1 9 8 ,ri*>d ,,ii4 act #a1 sc5e i4 ,%akespe>e makes ! k+ to w>n ^? wra?-k9dl$ g5tlem51 ,bol+broke & ,norfolk3 ,our doctors say ?is is no mon? to ble$4 #dc ,ib4 #fjg4 ,& our mo/ popul> books 9 old5 "t1 "o ! ,%eph]d's ,kal5d>1 speak+ ab\t ! signs ( ! zodiack1 tell u :i* ( ! twelve mon?s are ei!r good1 evil1 or indiff]5t = blood-lett+4 ,john ,g>l&'s 8c+ula0 may also mean ^? ri* girdles or sa%es worn by our wom5 r\nd ! wai/1 & ( :i* we h "o 9 ?is collection1 ,no4 #hega1 p4 #bah4 ,( ?is sort1 is t bord]--amb] col\r$ silk & diap]$--r\nd a ve/m5t f\nd 9 a grave at ,durham1 & l 8a ?ick lace1 "o in* & a qu>t] broad--evid5tly ow+ its orig91 n to ! ne$le1 b to ! loom10 c4#dd ,= ! arti/ wi%ful to be correct conc]n+ ! head-ge> ( ladies f ,anglo-,saxon times till ! end ( ! lat] ,plantag5ets1 ?is collection c furni% examples ( ^? b&s 9 ^? n>r[ textiles spok5 ( by our ,john ,g>l&4 ,= an aft]-p]iod ^? b&s are %[n on ! /atu>y1 & amid ! limn+ 9 illum9at$ ,,mss4 ( ! ?irte5? c5tury2 z in/ances ( ! n>r[ girdle1 may be view$ a lady's effigy1 9 ,romney *ur*1 ,hants2 & t ( ,ann ( ,bohemia1 9 ,we/m9/] ,abbey2 bo? to be f\nd 9 ,hollis's ,monum5tal ,effigies ( ,great ,brita92 = ! b& ab\t ! head1 ! examples 9 ! wood-cuts 9 ,plan*'s ,briti% ,co/umes1 p4 #aaf4 #dd ,ra9e's ,/4 ,cu?b]t1 p4 #aif4 ,( su* head-b&s we h "o at numb] #hefi1 p4 #bag1 & o!r ?ree m5tion$ ^u p4 #bba4 ,!y are1 no d\bt1 ! old snd ( ! ,anglo-,saxon p]iod4 ,= high-born dames !y 7 wr\ght ( silk & gold2 ^? ( l[] degree wore !m ( simpl] /uff4 ,! silk5 snood1 affect$ to ! pres5t h\r by "y unm>ri$ wom5 9 ,scotl&1 is a tru?ful witness to ! fa%ion 9 vogue dur+ ,anglo-,saxon & lat] times 9 ?is c\ntry4 ,) reg>d to :at ,john ,g>l& says ( /oles s made1 !re is "o "h1 ,no4 #abcc1 p4 #bd1 q entire4 ,f :at has be5 "h br\ght =w>d1 x w be se5 t ( silk1 :5ce x came or :at 0 its k9d1 no?+ 0 truly und]/ood1 ev5 by ! le>n$1 = _m ages4 ,:ile1 !n1 we smile at ,virgil & ! o!r anci5ts = ?9k+ t silk 0 a sort ( h]bace\s fleece gr[+ ^u trees1 let u n =get t n s _m ye>s ago our own ,royal ,society pr9t$ a pap] 9 :i* x is set =? t ! yet-call$ ,b>nacle ,goose comes f a mussel-l bivalve %ell1 kn[n z ! 8,anatifa10 or ,b>nacle1 an orig9 = ! bird /ill believ$ 9 by "s ( our seaf>+ folks1 & fo/]$ aft] a mann] by well-read p by ! sci5tific nom5clature ( ! %ell & ! v]nacul> epi!t = ! goose4 ,9 ! twelf? c5tury1 our c\ntryman1 ,alex&] ,neckham1 fo/]-bro!r to our ,ri*>d ,i41 wrote ( ?is m>vel ?us3 8,ex lignis abiegnis salo diuturno tempore madefactis orig9em sumit avis qu vulgo dicitur b]nekke10 c4#de ,su*1 h[ev]1 0 ! ,cir5ce/] ,augu/9ian fri>'s k ( natural hi/ory1 t1 at lea/ f\r hundr$ ye>s ere ! ,royal ,society _h a be+ among/ u1 he ?us spurns ! popul> belief ^u ! subject3-- ,ligna novas abiegna salo madefacta1 jub5te ,natura1 volucres ed]e fama ref]t4 ,id viscosus agit humor1 quod publica fama ,afs]it indignans philosophia negat4#df ,( a tru? ! ,record ,commission is do+ ,engl& good s]vice by draw+ out ( d>kness ! works ( our m$ival writ]s4 #de ,de ,natura ,r]um1 p4 #ii1 publi%$ "u ! direction ( ! ,ma/] ( ! ,rolls4 #df ,ib4 p4 #cjd4 ,! bre$+ ( ! worm & ! manufacture ( its silk bo? spread !mselves ) /eady ?\gh sl[ /eps ov] mo/ ( ^? c\ntries :i* skirt ! %ores ( ! ,m$it]ranean2 s t1 by ! t5? c5tury1 ^? processes _h rea*$ f ! f> ea/ to ! utt]mo/ we/]n limits ( t same sea4 ,ev5 !n1 & a long "t aft]1 ! natural hi/ory ( ! silkworm became kn[n b to a v few4 ,our a=esaid c\ntryman1 ,alex&] ,neckham1 made ,abbot ( ,cir5ce/]1 ,a4,d4 #abac1 01 x is likely1 ! fir/ :o1 :ile he _h le>n$1 tri$ 9 8 popul> "w1 8,de ,natura ,r]um10 to help o!rs to und]/& ! habits ( ! insect3 8,mat]iam ve/ium s]ic>um contexit v]mis qui bombex dicitur4 ,foliis celsi1 qu vulgo morus dicitur1 vescitur1 et mat]iam s]ici dig]it2 po/quam v]o op]>i cp]it1 escam r5uit1 labori delicioso dilig5tem op]am imp5d5s4 ,cala?i p>ietes indu/rius textor circuit1 lanam educ5s crocei coloris qu nivei c&oris efficitur p] ablutionem1 antequam t9ctura artificialis sup]9duitur4 ,consummato autem op]e nobilis textoris1 !cam 9 op]e proprio involutam c5tonis 9 modum sub9trat jamque similis papilioni1 c40#dg #dg ,ed4 ,t4 ,wright1 p4 #bgb4 ,( ^? sev]al raw mat]ials t h1 f ! e>lie/ p]iods1 be5 employ$ 9 weav+1 ?\gh n 9 su* frequ5cy z silk1 "o is ,,gold1 :i*1 :5 judici\sly br\ght 91 br+s ) x1 n a b>b>ic1 b arti/ical ri*ness4 ,! e>lie/ writt5 notice we h ab\t ! employm5t ( ?is preci\s metal 9 ! loom1 or ( ! way 9 :i* x 0 wr\ght = su* a purpose1 we f9d set =? 9 ! ,p5tateu*1 :]e ,moses tells u t he 7,beseleel7 made ( violet & purple1 sc>let & f9e l951 ! ve/m5ts = ,a>on to we> :5 he m9i/]$ 9 ! holy places4 ,s he made an ephod ( gold1 violet1 & purple1 & sc>let twice dy$1 & f9e twi/$ l951 ) embroid]$ "w2 & he cut ?9 plates ( gold & drew !m small into /rips1 t !y might be twi/$ ) ! wo( ( ! a=esaid col\rs4#dh ,in/ead ( 8/rip10 ! au?oriz$ v]sion says1 8wire10 ano!r translation reads 8?read20 b nei!r c be "r1 = bo? ( ^! ,engli% words mean a some?+ r\nd or twi/$ 9 ! %ape giv5 to ! gold be=e be+ wove1 :]eas ! metal mu/ h be5 work$ 9 q flat1 z we le>n f ! text4 #dh ,exodus xxxix4 #a1 #b1 #c4 ,?is br+s u to a %ort notice ( ,,clo? ,,( ,,gold1 ,,or ,,tissue4 ,! use ( gold = weav+1 bo? along ) l95 or q by itself1 exi/$1 x is likely1 among ! ,egyptians1 long be=e ! days ( ,moses4 ,9 ei!r way ( its be+ employ$1 ! preci\s metal 0 at fir/ wr\ght 9 a flatt5$1 nev] 9 a r\nd or wire %ape4 ,to ?is h\r ! ,*9ese & ! p ( ,india "w ! gold into _! /uffs aft] ! fir/ & anci5t =m4 ,9 ?is fa%ion1 to ev5 n[1 ! ,italians love to weave _! lama d'oro1 or ! m gli/5+ toca--^? clo?s ( gold :i*1 to all ,asiatic & _m ,european eyes1 d n gl>e ) too mu* g>i%ness1 b %9e ) a gl[ t befits ! raim5t ( p]sonages 9 high /ation4 ,among ! nations ( anci5t ,asia1 g>m5ts made ( webs dy$ ) ! co/ly purple t9t1 & int]wov5 ) gold1 7 on all gr& occasions worn by k+s & pr9ces4 ,s celebrat$ did ! ,m$es & ,p]sians become 9 su* works ( ! loom1 t clo?s ( extraord9>y beauty got _! sev]al names f ^? peoples1 & ,m$ean1 ,lydian1 & ,p]sian textiles came to be ev]y:]e s\ght = ) eag]ness4 ,writ+ ( ! w>s c>ri$ on 9 ,asia & ,india by ,alex&] ! ,great1 almo/ f\r c5turies be=e ! bir? ( ,*ri/1 ,qu9tus ,curtius (t5 speaks ab\t ! purple & gold g>m5ts worn by ! ,p]sians & m ea/]n ,asiatics4 ,among ! _m ?\s&s ( ^? :o came =? f ,damascus to ! ,greek g5]al1 ,p>m5io1 _m 7 s clad3 8,ve/es 444 auro et purpura insignes induunt40#di ,all ov] ,india ! same fa%ion 0 foll[$ 9 dress4 ,:5 an ,indian k+1 ) 8 two gr[n-up sons1 came to ,alex&]1 all ?ree 7 s array$3 8,ve/is erat auro purpuraque di/9cta1 c40#ej ,pr9ces & ! high nobility1 all ov] ! ,ea/1 are by ,qu9tus ,curtius call$1 8purpurati40#ea ,n only g>m5ts b hang+s 7 made ( ! same co/ly fabric4 ,:5 ,alex&] wi%$ to af=d "s ambassadors a spl5did reception1 ! gold5 c\*es ^u :i* !y lay to eat _! meat 7 scre5$ all ab\t ) clo?s ( gold & purple3 8,c5tum aurei lecti modicis int]vallis positi erant3 lectis circumd$]at 7rex ,alex&]7 la purpura auroque fulg5tia1 c40#eb ,b ^! ,indian gue/s !mselves 7 n less gorge\sly array$ 9 _! own national co/ume1 z !y came we>+ l95 7p]haps cotton7 g>m5ts respl5d5t ) gold & purple3 8,l9e ve/es intexto auro purpuraque di/9ct1 c40#ec ,! dress worn by ,d>ius1 z he w5t =? to d battle1 is ?us describ$ by ! same hi/orian3 ,! wai/ "p ( ! royal purple tunic 0 wove 9 :ite1 & ^u 8 mantle ( clo? ( gold 7 figur$ two gold5 hawks z if peck+ at "o ano!r ) _! beaks3 8,purpure tunic m$ium album intextum erat3 pallam auro di/9ctam aurei accipitres1 velut ro/ris int] se concurr]5t1 adornabant40#ed #di ,q4 ,curtii ,rufi1 lib4 iii4 cap4 xiii4 #cd1 p4 #bf1 ed ,foss4 #ej ,ib4 lib4 ix4 cap4 i4 p4 #bag4 #ea ,ib4 lib4 iii4 cap4 ii4 p4 #d1 cap4 viii4 p4 #af4 #eb ,ib4 lib4 ix4 cap4 vii4 p4 #bcc4 #ec ,ib4 cap4 vii4 p4 #bcc4 #ed ,ib4 lib4 iii4 cap4 iii4 p4 #g4 ,f ! ea/ ?is love = clo? ( gold rea*$ ! s\!rn end ( ,italy1 call$ ,magna ,grcia1 & !nce soon got to ,rome2 :]e1 ev5 "u its e>ly k+s & mu* lat] "u its emp]ors1 g>m5ts made ( x 7 worn4 ,pl9y1 speak+ ( ?is ri* textile1 says3--,gold may be spun or wov5 l wool1 )\t any wool be+ mix$ ) x4 ,we are in=m$ by ,v]rius1 t ,t>qu9ius ,priscus rode 9 triumph 9 a tunic ( gold2 & we h se5 ,agripp9a1 ! wife ( ! ,emp]or ,claudius1 :5 he exhibit$ ! spectacle ( a naval combat1 sitt+ by him1 cov]$ ) a robe made entirely ( wov5 gold )\t any o!r mat]ial4#ee ,9 fact1 ab\t ! ye> #ahdj1 ! ,m>quis ,campagna dug up1 ne> ,rome1 two old graves1 9 "o ( :i* _h be5 buri$ a ,roman lady ( high bir?1 inf]r$ f ! circum/ance t all ab\t h] rema9s 7 f\nd portions ( su* f9e gold flat ?read1 once =m+ ! burial g>m5t ) :i* %e _h be5 array$ = h] fun]al3 8,di due sepolcri ,romani1 del secolo di ,augu/o scov]ti tra la via ,lat9a e l',appia1 presso la tomba degli ,scipioni40 #ee ,book ,,xxxiii4 c4 #ai4 ,dr4 ,bo/ock's ,translation4 ,n[ we get to ! ,*ri/ian epo*4 ,:5 ,pope ,pas*al1 ,a4,d4 #hba1 s\ght = ! body ( ,/4 ,cecily1 :o und]w5t m>tyrdom ,a4,d4 #bcj1 ! pontiff f\nd1 9 ! catacombs1 ! maid5 bride :ole1 & dress$ 9 a g>m5t wr\ght all ( gold1 ) "s ( h] raim5t dr5*$ 9 blood ly+ at h] feet3 8,aureis illud 7corpus7 ve/itum indum5tis et l9team9a m>tyris ipsius sangu9e pl5a40#ef ,9 mak+ ! f\ndations = ! new ,/4 ,pet]'s at ,rome1 !y came ^u & look$ into ! m>ble s>cophagus 9 :i* _h be5 buri$ ,probus ,anicius1 prefect ( ! ,pretorian1 & 8 wife1 ,proba ,faltonia1 ea* ( ^: bodies 0 wrapp$ 9 a w9d+-%eet wov5 ( pure gold /rips4#eg ,m>ia ,/ili*o's daught]1 0 w$d$ to ! ,emp]or ,honorius1 & di$ sometime ab\t ,a4,d4 #djj4 ,:5 h] grave 0 op5$1 ,a4,d4 #aedd1 ! gold5 tissues 9 :i* h] body _h be5 %r\d$ 7 tak5 out & melt$1 :5 ! yield ( preci\s metal am\nt$ to ?irty-six p\nds4#eh ,! late ,fa!r ,m>*i f\nd1 among ! rema9s ( ,/4 ,hyac9?us1 m>tyr1 sev]al fragm5ts ( ! same k9d ( gold5 web1 w9d+ %eets ( :i* 7 (t5 giv5 by ! opul5t = wrapp+ up ! dead body ( "s poor m>tyr$ ,*ri/ian bro!r1 z is %[n by ! example specifi$ 9 ,boldetti's 8,cimit]i de' santi m>tiri di ,roma40#ei #ef ,lib] ,pontificalis1 t4 ii4 p4 #ccb1 ed4 ,vignolio1 ,rom1 #ageb2 ,hi]urgia1 #bnd ed4 p4 #bge4 #eg ,batelli1 de ,s>co4 ,m>m4 ,probi ,anicii et ,prob ,faltoni 9 ,temp4 ,vatic4 ,rom4 #agje4 #eh ,cancelli]i1 ,de ,secret>iis ,basil4 ,vatic4 ii4 #ajjj4 #ei ,t4 ,,ii4 p4 #bb4 ,*ild]ic1 ! second & p]haps ! mo/ r5[n$ k+ ( ! ,m]ov+ean dyna/y1 di$ & 0 buri$ ,a4,d4 #dhe1 at ,t\rnai4 ,9 ! ye> #afec 8 grave 0 f\nd out1 & amid ! e>? ab\t x s _m rema9s ( pure gold /rips 7 turn$ up1 t !re is e reason = ?9k+ t ! ,franki% k+ 0 wrapp$ 9 a mantle ( su* gold5 /uff = 8 burial4#fj ,t ! /rips ( pure gold out ( :i* ! burial cloak ( ,*ild]ic 0 wov5 7 n anywise r\nd1 b q flat1 we are w>rant$ 9 ?9k+1 f ! fact t1 :ile digg+ 9 a ,m]ov+ean burial gr\nd at ,env]meu1 ,a4,d4 #ahee1 ! di/+ui%$ ar*ologi/ l',abbe ,co*et came ^u ! grave once fill$1 z x seem$1 by a "y lady ^: head _h be5 wrea!d ) a fillet ( pure gold5 web1 ! tissue ( :i* is ?us describ$3 8,ces fils aussi brillants et aussi frais que s'ils sortai5t de la ma9 de l'ouvri]1 n'tai5t ni tirs ni cords4 ,ils tai5t plats et se composai5t t\t semplem5t de petites lanires d'or d'un millimtre de l>geur1 c\pe mme une feuille d'or paisse de mo9s d'un dixime de millimtre4 ,la longueur totale de quelques-uns atteignait p>fois jusqu' qu9ze ou dix-huit c5timtres40#fa #fj ,co*et1 ,le ,tombeau de ,*ild]ic ,ier1 p4 #agd4 #fa ,co*et1 ,le ,tombeau de ,*ild]ic ,ier p4 #age4 ,our own c\ntry c furni% an example ( ?is k9d ( gold5 textile4 ,at ,*essel ,d[n1 9 ! ,isle ( ,wight1 :5 ,mr4 ,hilli] 0 mak+ "s rese>*es 9 an old ,anglo-,saxon place ( burial1 ! digg]s f\nd pieces ( gold5 /rips1 ?91 & q flat1 :i* are figur$ 9 ,m4 l',abb ,co*et's le>n$ book j quot$4#fb ,( su* a ri* texture mu/ h be5 ! ve/m5t cov]$ ) preci\s /ones1 giv5 to ,/4 ,pet]'s ,*ur*1 at ,rome1 by ,*>les ( ,france1 9 ! middle ( ! n9? c5tury3 8,c>olus rex sancto ,apo/olo obtulit ex purissimo auro1 et gemmis con/ructam ve/em1 c40#fc ,9 ! work+ ( su* webs & embroid]y = use 9 ! ,*ur*1 a high-born ,anglo-,saxon lady1 l!ls)a1 ) h] wait+ maids1 sp5t h] life ne> ,ely1 :]e1 8aurifrixori et texturis secretius cum puellulis vacabat1 qu de proprio sumptu1 albam casulam suis manibus ipsa talis +5ii p]itissima fecit10 c4#fd #fb ,ib4 p4 #agf4 #fc ,lib] ,pontificalis1 l4 iii41 p4 #bja1 ed4 ,vignolia4 #fd ,lib] ,eli5sis1 ed4 ,/ew>t1 p4 #bjh4 ,su* a weav+ ( pure gold 01 "h 9 ,engl&1 foll[$ c]ta9ly z late z ! beg9n+ ( ! t5? c5tury2 v likely mu* lat]4 ,9 ! *apt] libr>y belong+ to ,durham ,ca!dral may be se51 along ) sev]al o!r v preci\s liturgical appliances1 a /ole & maniple1 :i* happily1 = m reasons ?an "o1 be> ^! inscriptions3 8lffla$ ,fi]i ,precepit4 ,pio ,episcopo ,fride/ano40 ,que5 to ,alfr$'s son & successor1 ,edw>d ! eld] 0 our lffla$ :o got ?is /ole & maniple made = a gift to ,fride/an1 consecrat$ bi%op ( ,w9*e/] ,a4,d4 #ije4 ,) ^! webs "u 8 eye1 ,mr4 ,ra9e1 9 8 8,sa9t ,cu?b]t10#fe writes ?us3 ,9 ! fir/1 ! gr\nd "w ( ! :ole is wov5 exclusively ) ?read ( gold4 ,i d n mean by ?read ( gold1 ! silv]-gilt wire frequ5tly us$ 9 su* matt]s1 b real gold ?read1 if ,i may s t]m x1 n r\nd1 b flat4 ,?is is ! "* ( ! :ole web1 ) ! exception ( ! figures1 ! undulat+ cl\d-%ap$ p$e/al ^u :i* !y /&1 ! inscriptions1 & ! foliage2 = all ( :i*1 h[ev] surpris+ x may appe>1 vacant spaces h be5 left by ! loom1 & !y !mselves aft]w>ds ins]t$ ) ! ne$le4 ,fur!r on1 9 8 description ( a girdle1 ! same writ] tells u3 ,its bread? is exactly sev5-eigh?s ( an in*4 ,x has evid5tly proce$$ f ! loom2 & its two compon5t p>ts are a flatti% ?read ( pure gold1 & a ?read ( sc>let silk1 c4#ff ,let x be borne 9 m9d t ,w9*e/] 0 !n a royal city1 & ab\nd$1 z x did aft]w>ds1 ) able ne$le-wom54 #fe ,p4 #bjb4 ,! employm5t1 till a late p]iod1 ( flatt5$ gold 9 silk textiles is well %[n by ^? fraudul5t imitations1 & sub/itution 9 its /ead ( gilt p>*m5t1 :i* we h po9t$ out among ! specim5s 9 ?is collection1 z may be se5 at ,nos4 #gjie1 p4 #adj2 #heij1 p4 #bbd2 #hfja1 p4 #bbi2 #hfci1 p4 #bdd1 c4 ,t ^! ,durham clo?-(-gold /uffs = ve/m5ts 7 home made--we mean wr\ght 9 ,anglo-,saxondom--is likely1 & by our wom5's h&s1 aft] ! way we %all h to speak ab\t fur!r on4 ,?is love = su* glitt]+ attire1 n only = liturgical use b secul> we>1 la/$ long 9 ,engl&4 ,su* gold5 webs w5t "h "u diff]5t names2 at fir/ !y 7 call$ 8ciclat\n10 8siglaton10 or 8siklat\n10 z ! writ]'s fancy l$ him to spell ! common ,p]sian ^w = !m at ! "t ?r\gh\t ! ea/4 ,by ! old ,engli% ritual1 pla9 clo? ( gold 0 all[$1 z n[1 to be tak5 = :ite1 & worn 9 ! ,*ur*'s c]emonials z su*1 :5 t col\r happ5$ to be nam$ = use by ! rubric4 ,?us 9 ! reign ( ,ri*>d ,,ii41 among ! ve/m5ts at ! ,*apel ( ,/4 ,george1 ,w9dsor ,ca/le1 !re 0 8unum ve/im5tum album bonum de panno adaurato pro pr9cipalibus fe/is ,b4 ,m>i10 c4#fg ,/4 ,paul's1 ,london1 _h1 at ! end ( ! ?irte5? c5tury1 two amices2 "o an old "o1 embroid]$ ) solid gold wire3 8,amictus breudatus de auro puro2 amictus vetus breudatus cum auro puro40#fh #ff ,mr4 ,ra9e1 ,/4 ,cu?b]t1 p4 #bji4 #fg ,dugdale's ,mon4 ,angl4 t4 viii41 p4 #acfc4 #fh ,dugdale1 p4 #cah4 ,! use ( gold5 /uffs n unlikely wov5 9 ,engl&1 b assur$ly worn by royalty "h1 is curi\sly %[n by ! contra/ betwe5 ! liv+ man clo!d 9 wov5 gold1 & ! dead body1 & its frightful /ate at burial1 ( ,h5ry ,i41 set =? by ,rog] ,hov$52 :o ?us writes ( t k+3 8vide 444 quomodo regis pot5tissimi corpus cujus c]vix diademite1 auro et gemmis electissimis quasi div9o spl5dore v]nav]at 444 cujus reliqua sup]ficies auro textile tota rutilav]at10 c4#fi ,(t5 0 ?is spl5did web wr\ght s ?ick & /rong1 t ea* /r+1 :e!r x happ5$ to be ( hemp or ( silk1 9 ! w>p1 _h 9 x six ?reads1 :ile ! weft 0 ( flat gold %r$s4 ,h5ce su* a texture 0 call$ 8samit10 a ^w %ort5$ f its fir/ & old ,byzant9e "n 8exsamit10 z we %all h to notice fur!r on4 ,among sev]al o!r pur*ases = ! w>drobe ( ,edw>d ,i41 9 ! ye> #acjj1 we f9d ?is entry3 8,pro samitis pannis ad aurum tam 9 canabo quam 9 s]ico10 c4#gj ,& su* 0 ! quantity kept !re ( ?is co/ly clo?1 t ! nobles ( t k+ 7 all[$ to buy x out ( ! royal /ores2 = in/ance1 f\r pieces at ?irty %ill+s ea* 7 sold to ! ,"l ,rob]t de ,clif=d1 & ano!r piece at ! same price to ,?omas de ,cammill4#ga ,n only ,asia ,m9or1 b ! ,isl& ( ,cyprus1 ! ,city ( ,lucca1 & ,moori% ,spa91 s5t u ^! ri* tissues4 ,! clo? ( gold f ,spa9 is incid5tally spok5 ( lat] 9 ! ,%]born beque/1 p4 lvi4 ,along ) o!r ?+s left beh9d him at ,hav]=d ca/le1 by ,ri*>d ,,ii41 7 tw5ty-five clo?s ( gold ( div]s suits1 ( :i* f\r came f ,cyprus1 ! o!rs f ,lucca3 8xxv4 draps d or de div]ses suytes d\nt iiii4 de ,cipres les autres de ,lukes40#gb ,h[ ,edw>d ,,iv4 lik$ clo?-(-gold = 8 p]sonal we>1 may be ga!r$ f 8 8,w>drobe ,acc\nts10 edit$ by ,nicolas2 & ! lavi% use ( ?is /uff ord]$ by ,ri*>d ,,iii4 = 8 own coronation1 is record$ 9 ! 8,antiqu>ian ,rep]tory40#gc ,! robes to be worn by ! un=tunate ,edw>d ,v4 at ?is same function 7 clo? ( gold tissue4 8,div]se peces ( clo? ( gold0 7 b\ght by ,h5ry ,,vii41 8( ,lomb>des40#gd #fi ,annalium1 c41 p4 #bgf1 ed4 ,savile4 #gj ,lib] ,quotidianus ,g>d]ob1 p4 #ced4 #ga ,ib41 p4 #f4 #gb ,anci5t ,kal5d>s1 c41 ed4 ,palgrave1 t4 iii41 #ceh4 #gc ,i4 p4 #dc1 c4 #gd ,exc]pta ,hi/orica1 p4 #ij4 ,a 8g[ne ( clo?-(-gold1 furr$ ) pawmpilyon1 ay5/ ,corpus ,xpi day10 0 br\ght f ,london to ,ri*mond1 to ,elizabe? ( ,york1 aft]w>ds ,h5ry ,,vii4's que51 = h] to we> z %e walk$ 9 ! procession on t great fe/ival4#ge ,! affection %[n by ,h5ry ,,viii41 & all our nobility1 m5 & wom51 ( ! "t1 = clo? ( gold 9 _! g>m5ts1 0 unmi/ak+ly set =? 9 s _m ( _! lik5esses br\ght toge!r 9 t v in/ructive ,exhibition ( ,national ,portraits 9 ! ye>1 ,a4,d4 #ahff1 9 ! ,s\? ,k5s+ton ,museum4 ,?is /uff seems to h be5 co/ly !n1 = ,pr9cess1 aft]w>ds ,que5 ,m>y1 ?irte5 ye>s be=e %e came to ! ?rone3 8pay$ to ,peycocke1 ( ,london1 = xix y]ds iii4 qrt ( clo! ( golde at xxxviij4s ! y]de1 xxxvijli4 xs4 vjd40#gf ,& = 8a y]de & dr qrt ( clo! ( silu] xls40#gg #ge ,privy ,purse ,exp5ses ( ,elizabe? ( ,york1 p4 #cc1 ed4 ,nicolas4 #gf ,privy ,purse ,exp5ses ( ,pr9cess ,m>y1 ed4 ,madd51 p4 #hg4 #gg ,ib4 p4 #hf4 ,clo? ( gold call$ ,,tissue4 ,z betwe5 common silk & sat91 !re runs a broad diff]5ce1 at lea/ 9 look1 "o be+ dull1 ! o!r smoo? & glossy1 s !re is a great di/9ction to be made among clo?s ( gold2 "s are1 s to say1 dead2 o!rs1 brilliant & sp>kl+4 ,:5 ! gold is twi/$ into its silk5 filam5t1 x takes ! dead5$ look2 :5 ! flatt5$1 filmy /rip ( metal is roll$ ab\t x s ev5ly z to br+ its edges close to "o ano!r1 x seems to be "o unbrok5 wire ( gold1 sp>kl+ & lu/r\s1 l :at is n[ kn[n z 8pass+10 &1 dur+ ! middle ages1 w5t by ! t]m ( ,cyprus gold2 & ri* samits wov5 ) x1 7 call$ damasks ( ,cyprus4 ,! v self-same ?+s get = !mselves o!r d5om9ations z "t goes on3 su* happ5$ to clo?s ( gold4 ,:at ! ?irte5? c5tury call$1 fir/1 8ciclat\n10 !n 8baudek910 aft]w>d 8nak10 p1 two hundr$ ye>s lat]1 *ose to "n 8tissue10 or ! bright %imm]+ gold5 textile affect$ s mu* by our k+s & que5s 9 _! dress1 = ! m solemn occasions ( /ately gr&eur1 z 0 j n[ m5tion$4 ,up to ?is "t1 ! v ?9 smoo? pap] made at fir/ on purpose to be1 :5 ?is ri* /uff lay by1 put betwe5 its folds to h9d] x f fray+ or t>ni%1 yet goes1 ?\gh its orig9al use is =gott51 by ! "n ( tissue-pap]4 ,! gorge\s & entire set ( ve/m5ts pres5t$ to ! alt> at ,/4 ,alban's ,abbey1 by ,m>g>et1 ,du*ess ( ,cl>5ce1 ,a4,d4 #adbi1 & made ( ! clo? ( gold commonly call$ 8tyssewys10 mu/ h be5 z rem>kable = ! abundance & purity ( ! gold 9 its texture1 z = ! spl5d\r ( ! preci\s /ones set on x1 z well z ! exquisite beauty ( its embroid]ies3 8,obtulit etiam unum ve/im5tum integrum cum tribus capis *oralibus de panno ,tyssewys vulg>it] nuncupato 9 quibus auri pretiosa nobilitas1 gemm>um pul*ritudo et curiosa manus artificis /uporem qu5dam inspectantium oculis reprs5tant40#gh ,! l>ge numb] ( ve/m5ts made out ( gold tissue1 & ( crimson1 light blue1 purple1 gre51 & black1 once belong+ to ,york ,ca!dral1 are all duly regi/]$ 9 ! valuable 8,fabric ,rolls0 ( t ,*ur* lately publi%$ by ! ,surtees ,society4#gi #gh ,mon4 ,anglic4 ,,ii4 #bbb4 #gi ,pp4 #bbi1 c4 ,among ^? _m ri* & co/ly ve/m5ts 9 ,l9coln ,ca!dral1 "s 7 made ( ?is sp>kl+ gold5 tissue contra-di/+ui%$ 9 its inv5tory1 f ! dull] clo? ( gold1 ?us3 8,f\r good copes ( blew ti%ew ) orphreys ( r$ clo? ( gold1 wr\ght ) bran*es & leaves ( velvet20#hj 8a *esable ) two tunacles ( blew ti%ew hav+ a preci\s orphrey ( clo? ( gold40#ha ,to ?is day1 9 "s c\ntries ! (ficial robes ( c]ta9 dignit>ies are wr\ght ( ?is ri* textile4 ,ev5 n[1 ^! ,roman pr9ces1 & ! s5ator ^: place on great fe/ivals :5 ! ,pope is pres5t1 is ab\t ! pontifical ?rone1 are all array$ 9 /ate g>m5ts made ( clo? ( gold4 #hj ,mona/icon ,anglicanum1 ed4 ,dugdale1 t4 viii4 p4 #abhb4 #ha ,ib4 ,silk5 textures ornam5t$ ) designs 9 copp] gilt ?read1 7 br\ght into m>ket & hone/ly sold = :at !y really 73 ( su* inf]ior w>es we f9d m5tion 9 ! inv5tory ( ve/m5ts at ,w9*e/] ,ca!dral1 drawn up by ord] ( ,h5ry ,,viii4 :]e we read ( 8tw5ty-eight copys ( :ite bawdkyne1 wov5 ) copp] gold40#hb ,! sub/itution ( gilt p>*m5t = metal w be notic$ fur!r on1 ,section vi4 ,to imitate clo? ( gold1 ! gild+ ( silk & f9e canvas1 l our gild+ ( wood & o!r sub/ances1 ?\gh n (t51 0 sometimes resort$ to = spl5d\r's sake on mom5t>y occasions2 su*1 = in/ance1 z "s /ately procession1 or a solemn burial s]vice4 ,mr4 ,ra9e tells u he got f a grave at ,durham1 among o!r textiles1 8a robe ( ?9ni% silk2 ! gr\nd col\r ( ! :ole is amb]2 & ! ornam5tal p>ts 7 lit]ally cov]$ ) leaf gold1 ( :i* !re rema9$ di/9ct & v num]\s portions40#hc ,9 ! *ur*y>d ( ,*eam1 ,surrey1 ,a4,d4 #ahfe1 0 f\nd ! skeleton ( a prie/ buri$ !re "s "t dur+ ! f\rte5? c5tury2 ar\nd ! wai/ 0 a flat girdle made ( br[n silk t _h be5 gilt1 & a %r$ ( x n[ lies be=e ! writ]4 ,9 ! 8,romaunt ( ! ,rose10 translat$ by ,*auc]1 ,dame ,gladnesse is ?us describ$3-- --9 an ov] gilt samite ,clad %e 04#hd ,on a piece ( ,g]man orphrey-web1 9 ?is collection1 ,no4 #acgc1 p4 #hj1 & likely done at ,cologne1 9 ! sixte5? c5tury1 ! gold is put by ! gild+ process4 #hb ,ib4 t4 i4 p4 #bjb1 new ed4 #hc ,sa9t ,cu?b]t1 by ,j4 ,ra9e1 p4 #aid4 #hd ,poems1 ed4 ,nicolas1 t4 iv4 p4 #bg4 ,9 ! ye> #abie1 ,/4 ,paul's1 ,london1 _h3 8,casula de panno inaurato sup] s]ico10 a *asuble ( gild$ silk2#he & x 0 l9$ ) r$ clo? made at ,aile%am1#hf or ,ele%am ,priory 9 ,l9coln%ire4 ,x _h1 too1 ano!r *asuble1 & alt> frontals ( gild$ canvas3 8casula de panno inaurato 9 canabo1 l9eata c>da ,indici coloris cum panno consimili de ,v5etiis ad p5d5dum ante alt>e40#hg ,v5ice seems to h be5 ! place :]e ^! gild$ silks & canvases1 l ! lea!r & pretty pap] ( a lat] epo*1 7 wr\ght4 #he ,dugdale's ,/4 ,paul's1 p4 #cce4 #hf ,ib4 #hg ,ib4 ,z gold1 s too ,,silv]1 0 hamm]$ out into v ?9 %eets1 :i* 7 cut into n>r[ long %r$s to be wov51 unmix$ ) any?+ else1 into a web = g>m5ts fitt+ = ! we> ( k+s4 ,( ?is we h a /rik+ illu/ration 9 ! 8,acts10 :]e ,/4 ,luke1 speak+ ( ,h]od ,agrippa1 tells u t he pres5t$ himself array$ 9 k+ly app>el1 to ! p1 :o to flatt] him1 %\t$ t 8 0 ! voice1 n ( a man1 b ( a god2 & =?) he 0 smitt5 by t loa?some disease--eat5 up by worms--:i* %ortly kill$ him4#hh ,?is royal robe1 z ,josephus in=ms u1 0 a tunic all made ( silv] & wond]ful 9 its texture4 ,appe>+ 9 ?is dress at break ( day 9 ! !atre1 ! silv]1 lit up by ! rays ( ! e>ly morn+'s sun1 gleam$ s brightly z to />tle ! behold]s 9 su* a mann] t "s among !m1 by way ( gloz+1 %\t$ out t ! k+ be=e !m 0 a god4#hi #hh ,acts4 c4 xii4 vv4 #ba-bc4 #hi ,ant4 l4 xix4 #h4 ,intimately connect$ ) ! raw mat]ials1 & h[ !y 7 wr\ght 9 ! loom1 is ! "q ab\t ! "t :5 ,,wire-,,draw+ 0 f\nd out4 ,at :at p]iod1 & among :at p ! art ( work+ up pure gold1 or gild$ silv]1 into a long1 r\nd1 hair-l ?read--into :at may be correctly call$ 8wire0--began1 is q unkn[n4 ,t ) _! me*anical +5uity ! anci5t ,egyptians be?\ght !mselves ( "s me?od = ! purpose1 is n unlikely4 ,f ,sir ,g>d9] ,wilk9son1 we le>n t at ,!bes !re 0 f\nd ! appe>ance ( gold wire4#ij ,( ^? rem>kable pieces ( ,egyptian h&icraft ! corslets s5t by ,k+ ,amasis--"o to ,l9dus1 ! second to ,lacdemon--( :i* we h already spok5 7p4 xiv471 we may fairly presume t ! "w ^u !m done by ! ne$le 9 gold1 requir$ by its m9ut5ess t ! preci\s metal %\ld be n flat1 b 9 ! %ape ( a real wire4 ,by ! delicate managem5t ( female f+]s1 ! usual n>r[ flat /rips might h be5 p9*$ or d\bl$ up1 s t ! two edges %\ld meet1 & !n rubb$ betwe5 m5's h>d] h&s1 or bett] /ill1 betwe5 two pieces ( smoo? highly-poli%$ granite1 w\ld produce a gold5 wire ( any requir$ f95ess4 ,belong+ to ! writ] is an ,egyptian gold r+1 :i* 0 tak5 f (f ! f+] ( a mummy by a fri5d4 ,! hoop is a pla91 some:at ?ick wire4 ,on ea* side ( its small gre5-dy$ ivory sc>abee1 to keep x 9 its place1 are w\nd sev]al r\nds ( r f9e wire4 ,9 ,etruscan & ,greek jewell]y1 wire is (t5 to be f\nd2 b 9 all in/ances x is s well %ap$ & s ev51 t no hamm] c\ld h h>dly wr\ght x1 & x mu/ h be5 fa%ion$ by "s roll+ process4 ,all ?r\gh ! m$ival times ! filigree "w is (t5 v f9e & delicate4 ,likely is x t ! embroid]y :i* we ?us read ( 9 ! descriptions ( ! ve/m5ts belong+ :ilom to our old *ur*es1 = in/ance3 8amictus breudatus cum auro puro0#ia--0 work$ ) gold wire4 ,to g back to ,anglo-,saxon times 9 ?is c\ntry1 su* gold wire w\ld seem to h be5 well kn[n & employ$1 s9ce 9 ,pet]bor\gh m9/] !re 7 two gold5 alt>-clo?s3 8ii4 gegylde e(ad sceatas20#ib & at ,ely ,ca!dral1 among its old ritual ornam5ts1 71 9 ! reign ( ,william ,rufus3 8,duo c+uli1 unus totus de auri filo1 alt] de pallio cujus p5d5tia0 7! tassels7 8sunt b5e ornata de auri filo40#ic ,! fir/ idea ( a wire-draw+ ma*9e dawn$ ^u a workman's m9d 9 ! ye> #acfj1 at ,nuremb]g2 & yet x 0 n until two hundr$ ye>s aft]1 ,a4,d4 #aefj1 t ! me?od 0 br\ght to ,engl&4 ,"o sample ( a /uff ) pure wire 9 x may be se51 p4 #bbj1 ,no4 #heha1 9 ?is collection1 z well z at ,no4 #hbbh1 p4 #aej4 #ij ,anci5t ,egyptians1 iii4 #acj4 #ia ,*ur* ( our ,fa!rs1 i4 #dfi4 #ib ,mon4 ,anglic4 t4 i4 p4 #chb4 #ic ,hi/4 ,eli54 lib4 ii41 c4 #aci1 p4 #bhc1 ed4 ,/eu>t4 ,equally int]e/+ to our pres5t subject is ! process ( tw9+ long n>r[ /rips ( gold1 or 9 its /ead gilt silv]1 r\nd a l9e ( silk or flax1 & ?us produc+ ,,gold ,,?read4 ,probably its orig91 z f> z flax & n silk is conc]n$1 z be+ ! und]ly+ sub/ance1 is mu* e>li] ?an has be5 suppos$2 & :5 ,attalus's "n 0 be/[$ ^u a new me?od ( int]weav+ gold ) wool or l951 x happ5$ s n because t ,p>gamanean k+ _h be5 ! fir/ to ?9k ( twi/+ gold ab\t a f> less co/ly mat]ial1 & ?us1 9 fact1 mak+ gold ?read su* z we n[ h1 b ?r\gh 8 hav+ sugge/$ to ! weav] ! long-kn[n gold5 ?read z a wo( into ! textiles f 8 loom4 ,f ?is po9t ( view1 we may easily believe :at ,pl9y says3 8,aurum intex]e 9 eadem ,asia inv5it ,attalus rex2 unde nom5 ,attalicis40#id ,9 t same ,asia ,k+ ,attalus inv5t$ ! me?od ( us+ a wo( ( gold2 f ?is circum/ance ! ,attalic clo?s got _! "n4 ,t1 at lea/ = work+ embroid]y1 ladies at an e>ly ,*ri/ian p]iod us$ to sp9 _! own gold ?read1 w\ld seem f a passage 9 ,claudian4 ,writ+ on ! elevation to ! consulate ( ! two bro!rs ,prob9us & ,olybrius1 at ! end ( ! f\r? c5tury1 ! poet ?us gracefully complim5ts _! ag$ "m1 ,proba1 :o ) h] own h&s _h work$ ! purple & gold-embroid]$ robes1 ! 8tog pict10 or 8trabe10 to be worn by h] sons 9 _! (fice3 ,ltatur v5]&a p>5s1 et pollice docto ,jam p>at auratas trabeas 444 99 99 99 99 99 ,et longum t5ues tractus producit 9 aurum ,filaque concreto cogit squal]e metallo4#ie ,! joyful "m plies h] le>n$ h&s1 ,& works all o'er ! trabea gold5 b&s1 ,draws ! ?9 /rips to all _! l5g? ( gold1 ,to make ! metal mean] ?reads enfold4 ,a consul> figure1 array$ 9 ! purple trabea1 pr(usely embroid]$ 9 gold1 is %[n 9 8,! ,*ur* ( our ,fa!rs40#if #id ,lib4 viii4 c4 #dg4 #ie ,9 ,prob9i et ,olybrii ,consulatum1 #agg-ahb4 #if ,t4 ii4 p4 #aca4 ,t1 9 ! ?irte5? c5tury our own ladies1 l ! ,roman ,proba1 !mselves us$ to make ! gold ?read ne$$ = _! own embroid]y is c]ta92 & ! process :i* !y foll[$ is set =? z "o ( ! items among ! o!r co/s = t magnific5t frontal wr\ght ,a4,d4 #abga1 = ! high alt> at ,we/m9/] ,abbey4 ,z t bill itself1 to be se5 on ! ,*ancellor's ,roll = ! ye> #ef ( ,h5ry ,,iii41 af=ds s _m curi\s & available p>ticul>s ab\t ! :ole subject 9 h&1 we w give x "h at full l5g? = ! sake ( com+ back h]eaft] to its sev]al p>ts3 8,9 xij4 ulnis de canabo ad frontale magni alt>is ecclesi 7,we/mona/]ii7 et c]a ad eundem pannum c]&a1 vs4 vid4 ,et 9 vj m>cis auri ad idem frontale1 liij m>cas4 ,et 9 op]acione dicti auri1 et sessura 7scissura87 et filatura ejusdem1 iiijl4 xiijs4 ,et 9 ij libris s]ici albi et 9 duobus s]ici crocei ad idem opus1 xxxvs4 ,et 9 p]lis albis pond]is v m>c>um1 et dimidi ad idem opus lxxli4 ,et pro grossis p]lis ad borduram ejusdem panni1 pond]is ij m>c>um1 xiijli4 dimidiam m>cam4 ,et 9 una libra s]ici grossi1 xs4 ,et 9 /ip5dio quatuor muli]um op]ancium 9 pr$icto panno p] iij annos et iij p>tes unius anni1 xxxvili4 ,et 9 ,dccciijxx vi e/malles pond]is liiis4 ad borduram pr$ictam4 ,et pro lxxvj asmallis grossis pond]is lxvs4 ad idem frontale iiijxxli4 xvjs4 ,et pro ,dl g]nectis positis 9 pr$ictis borduris1 lxvis4 ,et 9 ca/oniis auri ad dictas g]nectas impon5das pond]is xijs4 vjd41 cxijs4 vjd4 ,et 9 pictura arg5ti posita subtus pr$icta asmalla1 ij m>cas4 ,et 9 vj ulnis c>donis de viridi1 iijs40#ig ,z ! p\nd-weight n[ is widely diff]5t f ! p\nd /]l+1 s !n ! m>k-weight ( gold co/ n9e m>ks ( money4 ,! 8op]acio auri0 ( ! above docum5t consi/$ 9 flatt5+ out1 by a broad-fac$ hamm] l "o su* z our gold-beat]s /ill use1 ! preci\s metal into a %eet ?9 z our ?9ne/ pap]4 ,! 8scissura0 0 ! cutt+ ( x aft]w>ds into long n>r[ /rips1 ! w9d+ ( :i* ab\t ! filam5ts ( ! yell[ silk m5tion$1 is indicat$ by ! ^w 8filatura10 & ?us 0 made ! gold ?read ( t co/ly frontal fraught ) se$-pe>ls & o!r "s1 ( a mu* l>g] size1 & g>nets1 or r c>buncles1 & enamels1 & :i* took f\r wom5 ?ree ye>s & ?ree-qu>t]s to "w4 ,at ! back x 0 l9$ ) gre5 frieze or baize--8c>do de viridi40 ,su* 0 ! sup]ior quality ( "s gold ?read t x 0 kn[n to ! m$ival _w "u ! "n ( ! place :]e9 x _h be5 made4 ,?us we f9d a m5tion at "o "t ( ,cyprus gold ?read--8ve/im5tum embr[datum cum aquilis de auro de ,cipre20#ih lat]1 ( ,v5ice gold ?read--8= fr5ge ( gold ( ,v5ys at vjs4 ! ounce20#ii 8"o cope ( unwat]d camlet laid ) /rokes ( ,v5is gold40#ajj ,:at may h be5 _! diff]5ce _c n[ be po9t$ out3 p]haps ! ,cyprian ?read 0 s mu* e/eem$ because its some:at broad %r$ ( flat gold 0 w\nd ab\t ! hemp5 twi/ b5ea? x s nicely z to h ! smoo? unbrok5 look ( gold wire2 :ile ! article f ,v5ice %[$ ev]y:]e ! twi/+ ( common ?read4 #ig ,rot4 ,cancel4 #ef ,h5rici ,,iii4 ,compot4 ,w4 de ,gl\c4 #ih ,mon4 ,anglic4 ii4 #g4 #ii ,w>drobe ,acc\nts ( ,k+ ,edw>d ,,iv4 p4 #aag1 ed4 ,n4 ,h4 ,nicolas4 #ajj ,mon4 ,anglic4 ii4 #afg4 ,z n[1 s ( old1 ,,silks ,,_h ,,v>i\s ,,names giv5 !m1 mean+ ei!r _! k9d ( texture & dress+1 _! col\r & its sev]al t9ts1 ! sort ( design or patt]n wov5 on !m1 ! c\ntry f :i* !y 7 br\ght1 or ! use = :i*1 on p>ticul> occasions1 !y happ5$ to be especially set ap>t4 ,all ( ^! designations are ( =eign gr[?2 "s sprang up 9 ! sev5? & foll[+ c5turies at ,byzantium1 &1 n to be f\nd 9 classic writ]s1 rema9 unkn[n to mod]n ,greek s*ol>s2 "s are half ,greek1 half ,lat91 jumbl$ toge!r2 o!r "s1 borr[$ f ! ea/1 are s %ort5$1 s badly & v>i\sly spelt1 t _! ,arabic or ,p]sian d]ivation c be h>dly recogniz$ at pres5t4 ,yet1 )\t "s slight k ( !m1 we may n und]/& a great deal belong+ to trade1 & ! mann]s ( ! times glanc$ at by our old writ]s2 mu* less see ! true mean+ ( _m passages 9 our m$ival ,engli% poetry4 ,among ! t]ms significative ( ! k9d ( web1 or mode ( gett+ up "s sorts ( silk1 we h ,holos]icum1 ! :ole texture ( :i*1 z its ,greek-,lat9 comp\nd means to say1 is w>p & wo( :olly pure silk3 9 a passage f ,lampridius1 quot$ be=e1 p4 xix41 we le>n t s e>ly z ! reign ( ,alex&] ,sev]us1 ! diff]5ce betwe5 8ve/es holos]ic10 & 8subs]ic10 0 /rongly m>k$1 & f :i* we le>n t ,subs]icum impli$ t su* a texture 0 n entirely1 b 9 "p--likely its wo(--( silk4 ,al?\gh ! w>p only happ5$ to be ( silk1 :ile ! wo( 0 ( gold1 /ill ! tissue 0 (t5 call$ 8holos]icum20 ( ! ve/m5ts :i* ,b$a says#aja ,s4 ,gregory s5t ov] "h to ,s4 ,au/91 "o is m5tion$ by a m$ival writ] z 8una casula olos]ica purpurei coloris aurea textura0--a *asuble all silk1 ( a purple col\r1 wov5 ) gold4#ajb ,examples ( 8holos]icum0 & 8subs]icum0 ab\nd 9 ?is collection4 #aja ,hi/4 ,ecc4 lib4 i4 c4 #bi4 #ajb ,b$ ,hi/41 ed4 ,smi?1 p4 #fia4 ,examitum1 xamitum1 or1 z x is call$ 9 our old ,engli% docum5ts s (t51 samit1 is a ^w made up ( two ,greek ones1 1 8six10 & 1 8?reads10 ! numb] ( ! /r+s 9 ! w>p ( ! texture4 ,t /uffs wov5 s ?ick mu/ h be5 ( ! be/1 is evid5t4 ,h5ce1 to say ( any silk5 tissue t x 0 8examitum10 or 8samit10 meant t x 0 six-?read$1 9 consequ5ce co/ly & spl5did4 ,at ! end ( ! ?irte5? & beg9n+ ( ! f\rte5? c5turies1 8examitum10 z ! writ] /ill names ! silk1 0 mu* us$ = ve/m5ts 9 ,eve%am abbey1 z we ga!r f ! 8,*ronicon0 ( t h\se1 publi%$ lately = ! ,ma/] ( ! ,rolls4#ajc ,ab\t ! same p]iod1 among ! be/ copes1 *asubles1 & ve/m5ts 9 ,/4 ,paul's1 ,london1 _m 7 made ( 8sametum20 s ,ma/] ,radulph de ,baldock *ose to call x 9 8 visitation ( t *ur* z its dean1 ,a4,d4 #abie4ajd ,z we obs]v$ j n[1 ^! ri* silks1 :i* 7 9 all col\rs1 ) a w>p s /iff1 became ri*] /ill f hav+ a wo( ( gold5 ?read1 or1 z we %\ld n[ say1 be+ %ot ) gold4 ,b ye>s be=e1 8examitum0 0 %ort5$ into 8samet20 = among ! n9e gorge\s *asubles bequea!d to ,durham ca!dral by its bi%op1 ,hugh ,pudsey1 ,a4,d4 #aaie1 !re 0 ! 8prima de rubea samete nobilit] braudata cum lam9is aureis et bizanciis et multis magnis p]lis et lapidibus pretiosis40#aje ,ab\t a hundr$ ye>s aft]w>ds ! employm5t ( x1 aft] its ri*e/ =m1 9 our royal w>drobes1 has be5 po9t$ out j n[1 p4 xxviii41 c4 ,9 t valuable inv5tory1 lately publi%$1 ( ! ri* ve/m5ts belong+ to ,exet] ca!dral1 ,a4,d4 #abgg1 ( its num]\s *asubles1 dalmatics1 tunicles1 besides its sev5ty & m copes1 ! bett] "p 7 made ( ?is co/ly tissue "h call$ 8samitta20 = example3 8casula1 tunica1 dalmatica de samitta--p> 7ve/im5torum7 de rubea samitta cum avibus duo capita hab5tibus20 8una capa samitta cum leonibus deauratis40#ajf ,9 a lat] docum5t1 ,a4,d4 #acbg1 ?is preci\s silk is t]m$ 8samicta40#ajg ,our m9/rels did n =get to array _! knights & ladies 9 ?is gay attire4 ,:5 ,sir ,lancelot ( ! ,lake br\ght back ,gawa9 to ,k+ ,ar?ur3-- ,launcelot & ! que5 7 cl$de ,9 robes ( a ri* w$e1 ,( samyte :ite1 ) silv] %r$de3 99 99 99 99 99 ,! o!r knights ev]i*one1 ,9 samyte gre5 ( hea!n l&1 ,& _! kirtles1 ride alone4#ajh #ajc ,pp4 #bhb-hh4 #ajd ,dugdale's ,/4 ,paul's1 new ed4 pp4 #caf1 c4 #aje ,wills & ,inv5tories1 "p i4 p4 #c1 publi%$ by ! ,surtees ,society4 #ajf ,lives ( ! ,bi%ops ( ,exet]1 & a ,hi/ory ( ! ,ca!dral1 by ,oliv]1 pp4 #big1 #bih4 #ajg ,ibid4 #cac4 #ajh ,ellis's ,metrical ,romances1 i4 #cfj4 ,9 8 8,romaunt ( ! ,rose10 ,*auc] describes ! dress ( ,mir! ?us3-- ,full yong he 01 & m]ry ( ?\ght ,& 9 samette1 ) birdes wr\ght1 ,& ) gold beat5 full fet\sly1 ,8 bodie 0 clad full ri*ely4#aji ,_m ( ! beautifully figur$ damasks 9 ?is collection are :at anci5tly 7 kn[n z 8samits20 & if !y really be n 8six-?read10 accord+ to ! ,greek etymology ( _! "n1 x is because1 t at a v e>ly p]iod ! /uffs s call$ ceas$ to be wov5 ( su* a ?ickness4 ,^? /rong silks ( ! pres5t day ) ! ?ick ?read call$ 8organz9e0 = ! wo(1 & a slightly ?9n] ?read kn[n by ! te*nical "n ( 8tram0 = ! w>p1 may be tak5 to repres5t ! anci5t 8examits40 ,j z rem>kable = ! lightness ( its texture1 z happ5$ to be 8samit0 on acc\nt ( ! ?ick sub/ance ( its web1 yet q z mu* s\ght aft]1 0 ano!r k9d ( ?9 glossy silk5 /uff 8wr\ght 9 ! ori5t0 by ,paynim h&s1 & "h call$ fir/ by its ,p]sian "n :i* came ) x1 ciclat\n1 t is1 bright & %9+2 b aft]w>ds sicklat\n1 siglaton1 cyclas4 ,(t5 a wo( ( gold5 ?read l5t x m glitt] /ill2 & x 0 us$ equally = ecclesia/ical ve/m5ts z = secul> articles ( /ately dress4 ,9 ! 8,inv5tory ( ,/4 ,paul's ,ca!dral1 ,london10 ,a4,d4 #abie1 !re 0 a cope made ( clo? ( gold1 call$ 8ciclat\n30--8capa de panno aureo qui vocatur ciclat\n40#aaj ,among ! booty c>ri$ (f by ! ,engli% :5 !y sack$ ! camp ( ,salad91 9 ! ,holy ,l&1 ,k+ ,ri*>d took ! pavill\ns ,( s5dal1 & ( cyclat\n4 ,!y 7 %ape ( ca/els2 ,( gold & silv] ! p5cels4#aaa ,9 8 8,rime ( ,sire ,?opas10 ,*auc] says ( ! d\ghty swa91 ,( ,brugges 7 8 hos5 br\n ,8 robe 0 ( ciclat\n4#aab ,?\gh s light & ?91 ?is cloak ( 8ciclat\n0 0 (t5 embroid]$ 9 silk1 & _h sewn on x gold5 ornam5ts2 = we read ( a "y maid :o sat1 ,9 a robe ryght ryall b[ne ,( a r$ syclat[ne ,be hur fad] syde2 ,a coronell on hur h$d set1 ,hur clo?ys ) be/es & byrdes w] bete ,all ab[te = pryde4#aac #aji ,poems1 ed4 ,nicolas1 t4 iv4 p4 #bf4 #aaj ,dugdale's ,/4 ,paul's1 new ed4 p4 #cah4 #aaa ,ellis's ,metrical ,romances1 t4 ii4 p4 #bec4 #aab ,poems1 ed4 ,nicolas1 t4 iii4 p4 #hc4 #aac ,anci5t ,engli% ,met4 ,rom41 ed4 ,ritson1 t4 iii4 pp4 #h1 #i4 ,:5 9 ! field1 ov] _! arm\r1 :e!r ( mail or plate1 knights wore a long sleeveless g[n slit up almo/ to ! wai/ on bo? sides3 sometimes ( 8samit10 (t5 ( 8c5dal10 (t5] /ill ( 8ciclat\rn10 because ( its fl[+ %[y texture 0 ?is g>m5t made1 & f a new & contract$ way ( call+ x1 ! "n ( ! g[n1 l ! %ort5$ "o = its /uff1 became kn[n z 8cyclas10 no?+ ak9 to ! --! full r\nd article ( dress worn by ! wom5 ( ,greece & ,rome4 ,:51 ,a4,d4 #acjf1 be=e sett+ out to ,scotl&1 ,edw>d ,i4 gird$ 8 son1 ! pr9ce ( ,wales1 ) s mu* pomp1 a knight1 9 ,we/m9/] ,abbey2 to ! ?ree hundr$ sons ( ! nobility :om ! heir to ! ?rone 0 aft]w>d to dub knights 9 ! same *ur*1 ! k+ made a mo/ spl5did gift ( attire fitt+ = ! c]emony1 & among o!r textiles s5t !m 7 ^! 8clycases0 wove ( gold3--8,purpura1 bissus1 syndones1 cyclades auro text10 c4 z we le>n f ,mat!w ,we/m9/]1 8,flores ,hi/ori>um10 p4 #ded4 ,h[ v light & ?9 mu/ h be5 all su* g>m5ts1 we ga!r f ! quiet wit ( ,john ( ,salisbury :ile je]+ ! man :o affect$ to p]spire 9 ! dep? ( w9t]1 ?\gh clad 9 no?+ b 8 f9e 8cyclas30--8dum omnia gelu con/ricta rig5t1 t5ui sudat 9 cylade40#aad ,n s co/ly1 & ev5 some:at ?9n] 9 texture1 0 a silk5 /uff kn[n z c5dal1 c5dallus1 s&al1 s&al91 c5datus1 syndon1 syndonus1 z ! way ( writ+ ! ^w alt]$ z "t w5t on4 ,:5 ,sir ,guy ( ,w>wick 0 knight$1 ,& ) him tw5ty good gomes ,knightes' & b>ons' sons1 ,( clo? ( ,t>s & ri* c5dale ,0 ! dobb+ 9 ea* deal4#aae #aad ,polycraticus1 lib4 ,,viii4 c4 xii4 #aae ,ellis's ,met4 ,rom4 i4 #ae4 ,! ,roll ( ,ca]lav]ock tells u t among ! gr& array :i* met & jo9$ ,edw>d ,i4 at ,c>lisle1 ,a4,d4 #acjj1 on 8 road to invade ,scotl&1 !re 0 to be se5 _m a ri* cap>ison embroid]$ ^u c5dal & samit3-- ,la ot me9t ri*e gu>nem5t ,brod sur s5daus e samis4#aaf ,& ,lacy1 ,e>l ( ,l9coln1 lead+ ! fir/ squadron1 hoi/$ 8 bann] made ( yell[ c5dal blazon$ ) a lion rampant purpre4#aag ,ban] out de un c5dal safr91 ,o un li\n rampant purpr94 ,mo/1 if n all ! o!r flags 7 made ( ! same c5dal silk4 #aaf ,roll ( ,ca]lav]ock1 ed4 ,wright1 p4 #a4 #aag ,ibid4 p4 #b4 ,:5 ! /alwor? knight ( ,s\?ampton wi%$ to keep himself unkn[n at a t\rnam5t1 we ?us read ( him-- ,sir ,bevis disguis$ all 8 we$ ,( black c5dal & ( r$e1 ,fl\ri%$ ) roses ( silv] bright1 c4#aah ,( ! t5 beautiful silk5 albs :i* ,hugh ,pudsey left to ,durham1 two 7 made ( samit1 o!r two ( c5dal1 or z ! bi%op calls x1 s&al3 8,qu dicuntur s&ales40#aai ,exet] ca!dral _h a r$ cope ) a gre5 l9+ ( s&al3 8,capa rubea cum l9ura viridi s&alis20#abj & a cape ( s&al9e3 8,una capa de s&al940#aba ,*asubles1 too1 71 x is likely1 = poor] *ur*es1 made ( c5dal or s&el2 ,pi]s ,pl\ghman speaks ?us to ! high dames ( 8 day-- ,& ye lovely ladies ,) y\re long fyngres1 ,t ye h silk & s&al ,to s[e1 :an tyme is4 ,*esibles = *apeleyns1 ,*ir*es to hon\re1 c4#abb ,a /rong] k9d ( c5dal 0 wr\ght & call$1 9 ! ,lat9 inv5tories ( ! ?irte5? & f\rte5? c5turies1 c5datus af=ciatus1 & ( su* !re 0 a cope at ,/4 ,paul's2#abc :ile ano!r cope ( clo? ( gold 0 l9$ ) x1#abd z also a *asuble ( r$ samit giv5 by ,bi%op ,h5ry ( ,s&wi*4 #aah ,ellis's ,met4 ,rom4 ii4 #aef4 #aai ,wills & ,inv5tories1 p4 #c4 #abj ,oliv]1 p4 #bii4 #aba ,ib4 p4 #cae4 #abb ,! ,vision1 ,passus ,sextus1 t4 i4 p4 #aag1 ed4 ,wright4 #abc ,p4 #cag4 #abd ,p4 #cah4 ,syndonus or ,s9donis1 z x w\ld seem1 0 a bett]mo/ sort ( c5dal4 ,/4 ,paul's _h a *asuble z well z a cope ( ?is fabric3 8,casula de s9done purpurea1 l9ita c5data viridi2#abe 8capa de syndono ,hispanico40#abf #abe ,p4 #cbc4 #abf ,transcrib]'s note3 ,footnote1 orig9ally numb] #i on page xli1 n 9 orig9al text4 ,taffeta1 x is likely1 if n a ?9n]1 0 a less co/ly silk5 /uff ?an c5dal2 :i* ^w1 to ?is day1 is us$ 9 ! ,spani% language1 & is def9$ to be a ?9 transp>5t textile ( silk or l953 8,tela de s$a l9o muy delgada y trasp>5te40 ,z ! ,knights' flags3 ,!r gonfan5s & !r p5selles ,w] well wr\ght (f gr5e s5dels2 z _! long cyclases :i* !y wore ov] _! arm\r 7 ( c5dal1 s too 7 ( c5dal1 all blazon$ ) _! armorial be>+s1 ! h\s+ ( ! /e$s !y /rode4 ,( c5dal1 also1 0 ! l9+ ( ! *ur*'s ve/m5ts1 & ! peaceful citiz5's daily g>m5ts4 ,( 8 8,doct\r ( ,phisike10 ,*auc] tells u3-- ,9 sangu9 & 9 p]se he clad 0 alle ,l9$ ) taffata1 & ) s5dalle4#abg ,= ! weav+ ( c5dal1 among ! ,europeans1 ,sicily 0 once celebrat$1 & a good example f o!rs 9 ?is collection1 is ,no4 #hbee1 p4 #afc4 #abg ,prologue1 ,poems1 ed4 ,nicolas1 ii4 #ad4 ,s>c5et1 dur+ ! fifte5? c5tury took by degrees ! place ( c5dal1 at lea/ "h 9 ,engl&4 ,by "s improvem5t 9 _! weav+ ( c5dal1 ! ,s>ac5s1 x is likely 9 ! s\? ( ,spa91 e>n$ = ?is light web z !y made x1 or sold x1 a good "n 9 our m>kets1 & x became mu* s\ght = "h4 ,among o!r places1 ,york ,ca!dral _h sev]al sets ( curta9s = its high alt>1 8de s>cynet40#abh ,at fir/ we di/+ui%$ ?is /uff by call+ x1 f its mak]s1 8s>ac5icum40 ,b :ile ,anglicis+1 we %ort5$ t appellation into ! dim9utive 8s>c5et20 & ?is ^w we keep to ! pres5t day1 = ! ?9 silk :i* ( old 0 kn[n among u z 8c5dal40 #abh ,fabric ,rolls1 c4 p4 #bbg4 ,sat91 ?\gh f> f be+ s common z o!r silk5 textures1 0 n unkn[n to ,engl&1 9 ! middle ages2 & ( x ?us speaks ,*auc]1 9 8 8,man ( ,lawes ,tale30 ,9 ,surrie :ilom dwelt a compagnie ,( *apm5 ri*1 & !rto sad & trewe1 ,t wide 7 s5t5 hir spic]ie1 ,clo!s ( gold1 & sat9s ri*e ( hewe4#abi #abi ,poems1 ii4 #acg4 ,b z ,syria h]self nev] grew ! m preci\s k9ds ( spices1 s we d n believe t %e 0 ! fir/ to hit ^u ! happy me*anical exp$i5t ( gett+ up a silk5 texture s z to take1 by ! unit$ action at ! same mom5t ( /rong heat & heavy pressure ^u its face1 t lu/r\s metallic %9e :i* we h 9 sat94 ,no4 #gjb1 p4 #h1 is a good example ( late ,*9ese manufacture1 a process :i* ?is c\ntry is only n[ beg9n+ to und]/& & successfully employ4 ,:5 sat9 fir/ appe>$ 9 trade1 x 0 all ab\t ! %ores ( ! ,m$it]ranean call$ 8aceytuni40 ,?is t]m slipp$ ?r\gh e>ly ,italian lips into 8zetani20 com+ we/w>d ?is1 9 its turn1 dropp$ its 8i10 & smoo!d itself into 8sat910 a ^w = ?is silk among u ,engli% z well z our neighb\rs 9 ,france1 :ile 9 ,italy x n[ goes by ! "n ( 8raso10 & ! ,spani>ds keep up its fir/ designation 9 _! diction>y4 ,9 ! e>li] inv5tories ( *ur* ve/m5ts1 no m5tion c be f\nd ( sat92 & x is only among ! v>i\s ri* beque/s 7ed4 ,oliv]7 made to 8 ca!dral at ,exet] by ,bi%op ,gr&ison1 betwe5 ,a4,d4 #acbg-fi t ?is f9e silk is spok5 (2 ?\gh lat]1 & especially 9 ! royal w>drobe accompts 7ed4 ,nicolas71 x is p]petually specifi$4 ,h5ce we may fairly assume t till ! beg9n+ ( ! f\rte5? c5tury sat9 0 unkn[n 9 ,engl&2 aft]w>ds x met mu* fav\r4 ,flags 7 made ( x4 ,on bo>d ! /ately %ip 9 :i* ,beau*amp1 ,e>l ( ,w>wick1 9 ! reign ( ,h5ry ,,vi41 sail$ f ,engl& to ,france1 !re 7 fly+ 8?ree p5ons ( satt510 besides 8sixte5 /&>ds ( wor/$ entail$ ) a be> & a *a910 & a great /ream] ( =ty y>ds 9 l5g? & eight y>ds 9 bread?1 ) a great be> & griff9 hold+ a ragg$ /aff p\dr$ full ( ragg$ /affs4#acj ,l o!r silk5 textiles1 sat9 seems to h be51 9 "s few in/ances1 int]wov5 ) flat gold ?read1 s z to make x a tissue3 = example1 ,l9coln _h ( ! gift ( "o ( its bi%ops1 eighte5 copes ( r$ t9sel satt9 ) orphreys ( gold4#aca ,?\gh n (t51 yet sometimes d we read ( a silk5 /uff call$1 cadas1 c>da1 c>duus1 & us$ = inf]ior purposes4 ,! outside silk on ! cocoon is ( a poor quality comp>$ ) ! inn] filam5ts1 f :i* x is kept q ap>t 9 reel+1 & set aside = o!r uses2 ?is is cadas :i* ! ,promptorium ,p>vulorum def9es1 h[ev]1 z 8,bombic9ium10 or silk4 ,/4 ,paul's1 ,a4,d4 #abie1 _h 8pannus rubeus diasp]atus de ,l>et l9eatus de c>da ,inda20#acb & ,exet] possess$ ano!r clo? = ! purpose3 8,cum c>duis viridibus40#acc ,m frequ5tly1 in/ead ( be+ spun x s]v$ z wadd+ 9 dress2 on ! b>ons at ! siege ( ,ca]lav]ock1 might be se5 _m a ri* gambeson g>ni%$ ) silk1 cadas1 & cotton3-- ,me9t ri*e gamboison gu>ni ,de soi1 de cadas e coton4#acd ,"o ( ! ,l5t5 veils at ,/4 ,paul's1 9 ! *apel ( ,/4 ,fai?1 0 ( blue & yell[ c>de3 8velum quadragesimale de c>de croceo et indico40#ace ,! quantity ( c>d pur*as$ = ! royal w>drobe1 9 ! tw5ty-eigh? ye> ( ,edw>d ,i4's reign1 ,a4,d4 #abii1 is set =? 9 ! ,lib] ,quotidianus1 c4#acf ,*asubles made 9 ! ?irte5? c5tury1 & belong+ to ,h]e=d ,ca!dral1 7 l9$ ) c>da3 8,unam casulam de rubeo s9done l9ita de c>da crocea--t]tiam casulam de s]ico de ,india l9ita de c>da viridi10 c4#acg #acj ,b>onage ( ,engl&1 ,dugdale1 i4 #bdf4 #aca ,mon4 ,anglic4 viii4 #abhb4 #acb ,p4 #cce4 #acc ,ed4 ,oliv]1 p4 #cag4 #acd ,roll4 p4 #cj4 #ace ,/4 ,paul's ed4 ,dugdale1 p4 #ccf4 #acf ,p4 #ced4 #acg ,roll ( ! ,h\sehold ,exp5ses ( ,sw9=d1 ,bi%op ( ,h]e=d1 t4 ii4 p4 xxxvi4 ed4 ,web4 = ! ,camd5 ,society4 ,camoca1 camoka1 camak1 camora 7a misspell+71 z ! "n is diff]5tly writt51 0 a textile ( :i* 9 ,engl& we he> no?+ be=e ! latt] end ( ! f\rte5? c5tury4 ,no soon] did x make its appe>ance ?an ?is camoca rose into great repute2 ! ,*ur* us$ x = h] liturgical ve/m5ts1 & royalty employ$ x = dress on gr& occasions z well z 9 adorn+ palaces1 especially 9 drap+ b$s ( /ate4 ,9 ! ye> #ache1 besides "s small] articles1 ! royal *apel 9 ,w9dsor ,ca/le _h a :ole set ( ve/m5ts & o!r ornam5ts = ! alt>1 ( :ite camoca3 8,unum ve/im5tum album de camoca10 c4444 8,album de camoca1 cum casula40#ach444 8,duo quiss9i rubei de camoca40#aci ,to 8 ca!dral ( ,durham1 ! le>n$ ,ri*>d ,bury left a beautifully embroid]$ :ole set ( ve/m5ts1 ,a4,d4 #acde3 8,unum ve/im5tum de alma camica 7sic7 subtilit] brudata10 c4#adj ,our pr9ces mu/ h array$ !mselves1 on gr& occasions1 9 camoca2 = ?us ,h]od1 9 "o ( ! ,cov5try ,mi/]ies--! ,adoration ( ! ,magi--is made to boa/ ( himself3 8,9 kyrtyl ( cammaka kynge am ,i cladde40#ada ,b x 0 9 drap+ its /ate-b$s t our anci5t royalty %[$ its affection = camoca4 ,to 8 confessor1 ,edw>d ! ,black ,pr9ce bequea?s 8a l>ge b$ ( r$ camora 7sic7 ) our arms embroid]$ at ea* corn]10#adb & ! pr9ce's "m leaves to ano!r son ( h]s1 ,john ,holl&1 8a b$ ( r$ camak40#adc ,our nobles1 too1 _h ! same lik+s1 = ,edw>d ,"l ,desp5c]1 ,a4,d4 #acge1 wills to 8 wife1 8my great b$ ( blue camaka1 ) griff9s1 also ano!r b$ ( camaka1 /rip$ ) :ite & black40#add ,:at may h be5 ! real texture ( ?is /uff1 ?\ght s magnific5t1 we d n positively "k1 b haz>d+ a guess1 we ?9k x to h be5 wov5 ( f9e camel's hair & silk1 & ( ,asiatic workman%ip4 ,f ?is mix$ web pass we n[ to ano!r1 "o ev5 m preci\s1 t is ! ,clo? ( ,t>s1 :i* we presume to h1 9 a mann]1 be5 ! =]unn] ( ! n[ s celebrat$ ca%m]e1 & along ) silk made ( ! d[ny wool ( a family ( goats re>$ 9 sev]al p>ts ( ,asia1 b especially 9 ,tibet1 z we %all try to %[ a little fur!r on4 #ach ,mon4 ,anglic4 ed4 ,dugdale1 new edition1 p4 viii4 #acfc1 a4 #aci ,ib4 p4 #acff1 a4 #adj ,wills & ,inv5tories1 t4 i4 p4 #be1 publi%$ by ! ,surtees ,society4 #ada ,ed4 ,halliwell1 p4 #afc4 #adb ,nicolas's ,te/am5ta ,vetu/a1 t4 i4 p4 #ab4 #adc ,ib4 p4 #ad4 #add ,ib4 p4 #ii4 ,velvet is a silk5 textile1 ! hi/ory ( :i* has /ill to be writt54 ,( ! c\ntry :5ce x fir/ came1 or ! p :o 7 ! e>lie/ to hit ^u ! happy way ( weav+ x1 we "k no?+4 ,! olde/ piece we rememb] to h ev] se5 0 9 ! beautiful crimson cope embroid]$ by ,engli% h&s 9 ! f\rte5? c5tury1 n[ kept at ! college ( ,m\nt ,/4 ,m>y1 ,*e/]field1 & exhibit$ "h 9 ! ev] memorable ye> '#fb4 ,our belief is1 t to c5tral ,asia--p]haps ,*9a1--we are indebt$ = velvet z well z sat91 & we ?9k ! e>lie/ places 9 ,europe to weave x 01 fir/ ! s\? ( ,spa91 & !n ,lucca4 ,9 ! e>li] ( ^? olde/ inv5tories we h ( *ur* ve/m5ts1 t ( ,exet] ,ca!dral1 ,a4,d4 #abgg1 velvet is n spok5 (2 b 9 ,/4 ,paul's1 ,london1 ,a4,d4 #abie1 !re is "s notice ( velvet1#ade along ) its k9dr$ web1 8fu/ian10 = *asubles4#adf ,at ,exet]1 9 ! ye> #acbg1 velvet--& x 0 crimson--is = ! fir/ "t !re m5tion$1 b z 9 two pieces n made up1 ( :i* "s y>ds _h be5 !n sold = ve/m5t-mak+4#adg ,f ! middle ( ! f\rte5? c5tury1 velvet--mo/ly crimson--is ( common occurr5ce4 ,! "n itself ( velvet1 8velluto10 seems to po9t out ,italy z ! m>ket ?r\gh :i* we got x f ! ,ea/1 = ! ^w 9 ,italian indicates some?+ :i* is hairy or %aggy1 l an animal's sk94 ,fu/ian 0 kn[n at ! end ( ! ?irte5? c5tury4 ,/4 ,paul's ,ca!dral _h3 8,una casula alba de fu/ian40#adh ,b 9 an ,engli% s]mon prea*$ at ! beg9n+ ( ?is ?irte5? c5tury1 great blame is f\nd ) ! prie/ :o _h 8 *asuble made ( middl+ fu/ian3 8e me%akele ( m$eme fu/ian40#adi ,z !n wove1 fu/ian1 ab\t :i* we h to say m1 _h a %ort nap on x1 & "o ( ! dome/ic uses to :i*1 dur+ ! middle ages1 x _h be5 put1 0 = b$ clo!s1 z ?ick und]%eets4 ,lady ,b]gav5ny bequea?s ,a4,d4 #adcd1 8,a b$ ( gold ( swans1 two pair %eets ( ,raynes 7f9e l951 made at ,rheims71 a pair ( fu/ians1 six pair ( o!r %eets1 c40#aej ,t ?is /uff may h h9t$ to ! ,italians ! way ( weav+ silk 9 ! same mann]1 & s ( produc+ velvet1 is n unlikely4 ,_h ! ,egyptian ,arabs be5 ! fir/ to pu% =w>d _! own discov]y ( work+ cotton into fu/ian1 & *ang+ cotton = silk1 & s br\ght =? velvet1 x is probable "s "o w\ld h told u2 z x is1 we yield ! m]it to ,asia--may be ,*9a4 ,o!r nations took up ?is manufacture1 & ! weav+ ( velvet 0 wond]fully improv$4 ,x became diap]$1 & ^u a gr\nd ( silk or ( gold1 ! patt]n came out 9 a bold mann]1 ) a rais$ pile2 &1 at la/1 t difficult & mo/ beautiful ( all mann]s ( diap]+1 or mak+ ! patt]n to %[ itself 9 a d\ble pile1 "o pile high] ?an ! o!r & ( ! same t9t1 n[1 z =m]ly1 kn[n z velvet ^u velvet1 0 br\ght to its highe/ p]fection3 & velvets 9 ?is f9e /yle 7 wr\ght 9 greate/ excell5ce all ov] ,italy & 9 ,spa9 & ,fl&]s4 ,our old inv5tories (t5 specify ^! diff]5ces 9 ! mak+ ( ! web4 ,york ca!dral _h 8f\r copes ( crimson velvet pla9e1 ) orphreys ( clo! ( g\lde1 = /&]s20#aea & besides1 8a gre5e cu%ion ( rais$ velvet10#aeb possess$ 8a cope ( pur%$ velvet 7r$d70#aec 8pur%$0 mean+ ! velvet rais$ 9 a net-"w patt]n4 #ade ,p4 #cah4 #adf ,p4 #cbc4 #adg ,ed4 ,oliv]1 p4 #cag4 #adh ,ed4 ,dugdale1 p4 #cbc4 #adi ,reliqui ,antiqu1 i4 #abi4 #aej ,te/4 ,vet4 i4 #bbg4 #aea ,fabric ,rolls1 p4 #cji4 #aeb ,ib4 p4 #caa4 #aec ,ib4 p4 #caj4 ,diap] 0 a silk5 fabric1 held ev]y:]e 9 high e/imation dur+ _m hundr$ ye>s1 bo? abroad & "h 9 ,engl&4 ,?is we "k f docum5ts beg9n+ ) ! elev5? c5tury4 ,:at 0 its di/9ctive *>act]i/ic1 & :5ce x drew its "n1 we h n be5 hi!rto told1 ) any?+ l c]ta9ty4 ,sev]al em95t m5 h discuss$ ^! po9ts1 b :ile haz>d+ 8 own conjecture1 ea* ( ^! writ]s has diff]$ f ! o!rs4 ,till a bett] may be f\nd1 we submit our own solution4 ,! silk weav]s ( ,asia _h1 ( old1 f\nd out ! way s to ge> _! looms1 & dress _! silk1 or _! ?reads ( gold1 t ) a w>p & wo(1 bo? precisely ( ! same tone ( col\r !y c\ld give to ! web an elegant design1 ea* "p ( :i* be+ manag$ 9 ! weav+1 z ei!r to hide or to cat* ! light & %9e1 look$ to be sep>at$ f or /& well up above ! seem+ dusky gr\nd bel[ x3 at times ! design 0 dull$1 & ! gr\nd made glossy4 ,to indicate su* a "o-col\r$1 yet patt]n$ silk1 ! ,byzant9e ,greeks ( ! e>ly middle ages be?\ght !mselves ( ! t]m 1 diaspron1 a ^w ( _! own co9age1 & drawn f ! old ,greek v]b1 1 ,i sep>ate1 b meant by !m to signify 8:at di/+ui%es or sep>ates itself f ?+s ab\t x10 z e patt]n mu/ d on a "o-col\r$ silk4 ,along ) ?is textile1 ! ,lat9s took ! "n = x f ! ,greeks1 & call$ x 8diasp]10 :i* we ,engli% h m\ld$ into 8diap]40 ,9 ! ye> #ajff1 ! ,empress ,agnes gave to ,monte ,cass9o a diap]-*asuble ( clo? ( gold1 8optulit planetam diasp]am totam undique auro contextam40#aed ,h[ a gold5 web may be s wr\ght is exemplifi$1 amid sev]al o!r specim5s 9 ?is collection1 by ! "o "u ,no4 #abgj1 p4 #ch1 done mo/ likely by an ,engli% h&4 ,at ,york ,m9/]1 9 ! ye> #ahfb1 0 op5$ a tomb1 v likely t ( "s ar*bi%op2 & !re 0 f\nd1 along ) o!r textiles 9 silk1 a few %r$s ( :at _h be5 a *asuble made ( clo? ( gold diap]$ all ov] ) little crosses1 z we ourselves beheld4 ,x w\ld seem1 inde$1 t clo? ( gold 0 at mo/ times diap]$ ) a patt]n1 at lea/ 9 ,*auc]'s days1 s9ce he ?us po9ts to x on ! h\s+ ( 8 k+'s horse3-- -- -- trapp$ 9 /ele1 ,cov]$ ) clo? ( gold diapr$ wele4#aee #aed ,*ron4 ,s4 ,mona/4 ,cass94 ,lib4 iii4 cap4 #gc1 p4 #dej1 ed4 ,muratori4 #aee ,knight's ,tale1 l4 #baei-fj4 ,our olde/ ,*ur* inv5tories make frequ5t m5tion ( su* diap]$ silks = ve/m5ts4 ,9 #abgg1 ,exet] ,ca!dral _h3 8una 7capa7 de alba diapra cum noviluniis10#aef--;a cope ( :ite diap] ) half moons4 ,x 0 ! gift ( ,bi%op ,b>?olomew1 ,a4,d4 #aafa4 ,bi%op ,brew]1 ,a4,d4 #abbd1 be/[$ ^u ! ,*ur* a small pall ( r$ diap]3 8p>va palla de rubea diapra20 along ) a *asuble1 dalmatic & tunicle ( :ite diap]3 8casula1 c4 de alba diapra40#aeg ,among its va/ collection ( liturgical g>m5ts1 ,a4,d4 #abie1 old ,/4 ,paul's _h a l>ge numb] made ( diap]1 :i* 0 almo/ always :ite4 ,sometimes ! patt]n ( ! diap]+ is notic$2 = in/ance1 a *asuble ( :ite diap]1 ) c\pl$ p>rots 9 places1 among bran*es3 8casula de albo diaspro cum citaciis comb9atis p] loca 9 ramusculis40#aeh ,aga93 8tunica et dalmatica de albo diaspro cum citacis viridibus 9 ramunculis10#aei :]e we see ! :ite diap] hav+ ! p>rots done 9 gre54 ,probably ! mo/ rem>kable & elaborate specim5 ( diap]-weav+ on record1 is ! "o t ,edmund1 ,e>l ( ,cornwall gave1 made up 9 8a cope ( a c]ta9 diap] ( ,antio* col\r1 cov]$ ) trees & diap]$ birds1 ( :i* ! heads1 brea/s1 & feet1 z well z ! fl[]s on ! trees1 are wov5 9 gold ?read3 8,capa ,dom9i ,edmundi ,comitis ,cornubi de quodam diasp]o ,antio* coloris1 tegulata cum arboribus et avibus diasp]atis qu>um capita1 pectora et p$es1 et flores 9 m$io arborum sunt de aurifilo context4#afj #aef ,p4 #big4 #aeg ,p4 #bih4 #aeh ,/4 ,paul's1 ed4 ,dugdale1 p4 #cbc4 #aei ,ib4 p4 #cbb4 #afj ,ib4 p4 #cah4 ,by degrees ! ^w 8diap]0 became wid5$ 9 its mean+4 ,n only all sorts ( textile1 :e!r ( silk1 ( l951 or ( wor/$1 b ! walls ( a room 7 said to be diap]$ :5 ! self-same ornam5t 0 repeat$ & spr9kl$ well ov] x4 ,?us1 to soo! 8 daught]'s sorr[s1 ! ,k+ ( ,hung>y promises h] a *air or c>riage1 t-- ,%al be cov]d wy? velvette re$e ,& clo!s ( fyne golde al ab\t y\r he$e1 ,) damaske :yte & azure blewe ,well dyap]d ) lylles newe4#afa ,nay1 ! b[ = arr[s held by ,,sweet ,,look+ is1 9 ,*auc]'s 8,romaunt ( ! ,rose10 describ$ z-- pa9t$ well1 & ?witt5 ,& ov] all diapr$ & writt51 c4#afb ,ev5 n[1 our f9e table l95 we call 8diap]10 because x is figur$ ) fl[]s & fruits4 ,sometimes1 ) u1 silks diap]$ 7 call$ 8sygury30 una capa de sateyn sygury1 cum ymag9e ,b4 ,m4 ,v4 9 capucio4#afc #afa ,squire ( ,l[ ,degree1 ed4 ,ritson4 #afb 8,romaunt ( ! ,rose10 l4 #ijj4 #afc ,fabric ,rolls ( ,york ,ca!dral1 p4 #bcj4 ,9 _! etymology ( diap]1 mod]n writ]s try to draw ! ^w f ,yprs1 or d',ypris1 because t t[n 9 ,belgium 0 once celebrat$1 n = silk5 /uffs1 b = l954 ,betwe5 ! city & ! "n ( 8diap]0 a k9%ip ev5 ( ! v fur!/ sort _c be fairly set up4 ,f ! citations out ( ! ,*ronicle ( ,monte ,cass9o we le>n1 t at ! beg9n+ ( ! elev5? c5tury1 ! t]m 9 use !re = a c]ta9 silk5 textile1 br\ght ?i!r f ! ea/1 0 8diasp]on40 ,we f9d1 too1 h[ t great mona/]y 0 9 cont9ual communication ) ,con/ant9ople1 :i!r %e 0 9 ! habit ( s5d+ h] monks to buy art-works ( price1 & br+ back ) !m workm51 = ! purpose ( embelli%+ h] ,*ur* & its alt>s4 ,gett+ f ,s\? ,italy to ,engl&1 & our own records1 we discov] ?is same ,greece-born phrase1 diaspron1 diasp]1 giv5 to preci\s silks us$ z ve/m5ts dur+ ! twelf? & ?irte5? c5turies1 9 ,london & ,exet]4 ,by ! latt] end ( ! f\rte5? c5tury--,*auc]'s "t--! t]ms 8diasp]10 & 8diasp]atus10 among u1 _h slidd5 into 8diap]10 8diap]atus10 ,engli%$1 8diap]$40 ,n[1 9 ?is same f\rte5? c5tury1 d we1 = ! fir/ "t1 meet a m5tion ( ,yprs2 & n alone1 b along ) ,gh5t1 z fam\s = l951 if by t ^w we und]/& clo?2 & ev5 !n our own ,ba? seems to h /ood above ^? ,belgian cities 9 _! textiles4 ,among ,*auc]'s pilgrims-- ,a good wif 0 !r ( beside ,ba! 99 99 99 99 99 ,( clo? mak+ %e hadde swi*e an haunt ,%e pass$ hem ( ,ipres & ( ,gaunt4#afd #afd ,! ,prologue1 #ddg4 ,nei!r 9 ?is1 nor any o!r subsequ5t notice ( ,yprs weav+1 is !re any?+ :i* c be twi/$ into a w>rant = ?9k+ ! di/9ctive m>k to h be5 ! fir/ employm5t ( patt]n on its webs1 or ev5 its peculi> sup]iority 9 su* a /yle ( "w4 ,! important fact :i* we h j n[ v]ifi$ t sev]al ages _h gone by betwe5 ! p]iod :51 9 ,greece1 9 ,s\? ,italy1 & ,engl&1 ! common "n = a c]ta9 k9d ( preci\s silk 0 8diaspron10 8diasp]10 8diap]10 & ! day :51 = ! fir/ "t1 ,yprs1 n alone1 b 9 company ) o!r neighb\r+ cities1 />t$ up into notice = its l95s1 q ov]?r[s ! etymology ?\ght ( n[-a-days = ! ^w 8diap]10 & ha/5s u to ! conclusion t ?is almo/ ante-m$ival t]m came to u f ,greece1 & n f ,fl&]s4 ,( ! sev]al olde/ pieces 9 ?is collection1 !re are n a few :i* ^? good m5 :o wrote out ! valuable inv5tories ( ,exet] & ,/4 ,paul's1 ,london1 w\ld h jott$ d[n z 8diasp]10 or 8diap]40 ,! %r$s ( creamy1 :ite silk1 numb] #abci1 p4 #bf1 fully illu/rate ! mean+ ( ?is t]m1 & w repay m9ute inspection4 ,m anci5t /ill are o!r t]ms :i* we are ab\t to notice1 su* z 8*rysoclavus10 8/aurac910 8poly/aurium10 8gammadion10 or 8gammadi10 8de quadruplo10 8de octoplo10 & 8de fundato40 ,fir/1 textiles ( silk & gold are1 ov] & ov] aga91 enum]at$ z !n commonly kn[n "u su* names1 9 ! s-call$ ,ana/asius ,biblio!c>ius1 ,lib] ,pontificalis seu de ,ge/is ,romanorum ,pontificum1 ! good edition ( :i*1 9 ?ree volumes1 edit$ by ,vignolius1 ought to be 9 ! h&s ( e /ud5t ( e>ly ,*ri/ian art-"w1 & 9 p>ticul> ( textiles & embroid]y4 ,! ,*rysoclavus or gold5 nail-head1 0 a remnant1 :i* l+]$ a long "t among ! ornam5ts embroid]$ on ecclesia/ical ve/m5ts1 & robes = royal we>1 ( t once s covet$ 8latus clavus10 or broad nail-head-l purple r\nd pat* worn ^u ! outw>d g>m5t ( ! old ,roman dignit>ies1 z we le>n f ,horace1 :ile laugh+ at ! silly (ficial :om he saw at ,fondi-- ,insani rid5tes prmia scrib1 ,prtextam et latum clavum4#afe #afe ,s]m4 lib4 i4 satir4 v4 ,9 ! ,c\rt ( ,byzantium ?is device ( dignity 0 elevat$1 f be+ purple on :ite1 into gold ^u purple4 ,h5ce came x t all ri* purple silks1 wov5 or embroid]$1 ) ! 8clavus0 done 9 gold1 became kn[n f _! patt]n z gold nail-head$1 or *rysoclavus1 a half ,greek half ,lat9 ^w1 employ$ z (t5 z an adjective z a sub/antive2 & silk5 textiles ( ,tyrian dye1 spr9kl$ all ov] ) l>ge r\nd spots1 7 once 9 great dem&4 ,%ortly aft]1 ,a4,d4 #gie1 ,pope ,leo1 among 8 sev]al o!r gifts to ! *ur*es at ,rome1 be/[$ a great numb] ( alt> frontals made ( ?is purple & gold fabric1 z we are told by ,ana/asius4 ,to ! alt> ( ,/4 ,paul's ! pontiff s5t 8ve/em sup] alt>e albam *rysoclavam20#aff b to ano!r 8ve/em *rysoclavam ex blatt9 ,byzanteo40#afg ,sometimes ^! 8clavi0 7 made s l>ge t ^u _! gold5 gr\nd an ev5t 9 ! life ( a sa9t1 or ! sa9t's head1 0 embroid]$1 & !n ! :ole piece 0 call$ 8sigillata10 or seal$4 ,/aurac91 or 8/aurac9us10 tak+ its "n f 1 ! ,greek = 8cross10 0 a silk5 /uff figur$ ) small pla9 crosses1 & !re=e f _! numb] sometimes fur!r di/+ui%$ by ! ^w signify+ t mean+ 9 ,greek1 ,poly/auron4 ,( su* a textile ,/4 ,leo gave pres5ts to *ur*es1 z we le>n f ,ana/asius1 lib4 ,pont4 ii4 #bfe4 ,h[ mu* silk5 textiles figur$ ) ! cross 7 9 reque/ = *ur* adornm5t we le>n f ,=tunatus1 :o1 ab\t ! ye> #efe1 ?us describes ! hang+s ( an oratory 9 a *ur* at ,t\rs-- ,pallia nam m]uit1 sunt qu cruce textile pul*ra1 99 99 99 99 99 ,s]ica qua niveis sunt agnava blattea telis1 ,et textis crucibus magnificatur opus4#afh ,v (t5 ! crosses wov5 on ^! fabrics 7 ( ! simple/ %ape2 (t5] 7 !y design$ aft] an elaborate type ) a symbolic mean+ ab\t x t af=d$ an especial "n to ! /uffs ^u :i* !y 7 figur$1 ! fir/ ( :i* t claims our notice is d5om9at$ #aff ,lib4 ,pon4 ii4 #beg4 #afg ,ibid4 #beh4 #afh ,poematum1 ,lib] ,,ii4 iv4 ,gammadion1 or ,gammadi1 a ^w appli$ z (t5 to ! patt]n ^u silks z ! figures wr\ght ^u gold & silv] = use 9 *ur*es1 we s repeat$ly come ^u 9 ! 8,lib] ,pontificalis40 ,9 ! ,greek alphabet ! capital lett] ( gamma takes ! %ape ( an exact "r angle ?us1 4 ,be+ s1 _m writ]s h beheld 9 x an emblem ( our ,"l z our corn]-/one4 ,foll[+ ?is idea arti/s at a v e>ly p]iod /ruck out a way ( =m+ ! cross aft] sev]al %apes by v>i\s comb9ations ) x ( ?is lett] 4 ,f\r ( ^! gammas put s fall into ! %ape ( ! s-call$ ,greek cross2 & 9 ?is =m x 0 wov5 ^u ! textiles d5om9at$ 8/aurac920 or patt]n$ ) a cross4 ,be+ "o ( ! f\r same-%ap$ elem5ts ( ! cross's figure1 ! "p 0 significant ( ! :ole4 ,be+1 too1 ! emblem ( our corn]-/one--our ,"l1 ! gamma1 or 1 0 %[n at "o edge ( ! tunic on mo/ ( ! apo/les 9 anci5t mosaics2 :]e9 sometimes we f9d1 9 place ( ! gamma1 our pres5t capital = ! aspirate1 ) :i* = _! symbolic purpose ! e>ly ,*ri/ians *ose to utt]1 if n1 write ! sacr$ "n4 ,?is is1 h[ev]1 only ano!r comb9ation ( ! f\r gammas 9 ! cross4 ,:atsoev]1 !re=e1 :e!r ( silv] or ( silk1 0 f\nd to be m>k$ 9 ^! or o!r ways ( putt+ ! gammas toge!r1 or ) only a s+le "o1 su* articles 7 call$ 8gammadion10 or 8gammadi20 b z (t5 ! s-=m$ cross 0 designat$ z 8gamma$10 or 8gammadia40 ,/4 ,leo gave to ! ,*ur* ( ,s4 ,susanna1 at ,rome1 an alt>-frontal1 ^u :i* !re 7 f\r ( su* crosses made ( purple silk speckl$ ) gold spots2 8ve/em de blat?9 hab5tem 444 tabulas *rysoclavas iiii cum gemmis ornatas1 atque gammadias 9 ipsa ve/e *rysoclavas iiii40#afi ,anci5t +5uity = ?r[+ its fav\rite gamma into o!r comb9ations1 & ?us br++ =? o!r pretty b graceful patt]ns to be wr\ght on all sorts ( ecclesia/ical appliances1 did n /op "h4 ,9 ! 8,lib] ,pontificalis0 ( ,ana/asius1 we meet n unfrequ5tly ) su* passages z ^!3 8,cort9as mir magnitud9is de palliis /aurac9 seu quadrapolis20#agj 8vela 444 ex palliis quadrapolis seu /aurac920#aga 8vela de octapolo40#agb ,! explanation ( ^! two t]ms1 8de quadrapolo10 8de octapolo10 has hi!rto baffl$ all comm5tators ( ! text ?r\gh _! =getfulness ( comp>+ toge!r ! ?+s !mselves & ! writt5 description ( !m4 ,9 ^! texts !re is evid5tly meant a /rong contra/ betwe5 a some?+ am\nt+ to f\r1 & to eight1 9 or ^u ^! textiles4 ,x _c be to say t "o fabric 0 wov5 ) f\r1 ! o!r ) eight ?reads3 _h t be5 s meant1 !n ! fact w\ld h be5 ann\nc$ by words con/ruct$ l 8examitus10 p4 xxxvii4 ,z ! contra/ is n 9 ! texture1 x mu/ !n be se>*$ = 9 ! patt]n ( ^! two /uffs4 ,sure en\gh1 !re we f9d x1 z 8de quadrapolis0 & 8/aurac90 71 z we see above1 int]*angeable t]ms2 ! fir/1 l ! second sort ( textile1 0 figur$ ) crosses4 ,giv5 at ! end ( ,du ,cange's 8,gloss>y0 is an engrav+ ( a "w ( ,greek art1 plate ,,ix4 ,"h ,/4 ,john ,*ryso/om /&s betwe5 ,/4 ,ni*olas & ,/4 ,basil4 ,all ?ree are array$ 9 _! liturgical g>m5ts1 :i* be+ figur$ ) crosses1 are ( ! textile call$ ( old 8/aurac920 b a m>k$ diff]5ce 9 ! way 9 :i* ! crosses are put is disc]nible4 ,z a metropolitan ,/4 ,john we>s ! saccos ^u :i* ! crosses are arrang$ ?us ,illu/ration ,/4 ,ni*olas1 & ,/4 ,basil h *asubles :i*1 ?\gh work$ all ov] ) crosses1 made1 z on ,/4 ,john's saccos1 ) gammas1 are surr\nd$ ) o!r gammas jo9$ s z to edge 9 ! crosses1 ?us ,illu/ration ,z f\r gammas only are necess>y to =m all ! crosses ^u ,/4 ,john's ve/m5t1 !re9 we behold ! textile call$ by ,ana/asius1 8,/aurac9 de quadruplo10 or ! /uff figur$ ) a cross ( f\r 7gammas72 :ile z eight ( ^! ,greek lett]s are requir$ = ! patt]n on ! *asubles1 we h 9 !m an example ( ! o!r 8/aurac9 de octaplo10 or 8octapulo10 a fabric ) a patt]n compos$ ( eight gammas4 ,b ( all ! %apes fa%ion$ out ( ! repetition ( ! "o same elem5t1 ! ,greek lett] 1 by f> ! mo/ anci5t1 univ]sal1 & my/ic1 is t curi\s "o p>ticul>iz$ by _m z ! #afi ,lib4 ,pontif4 ii4 #bdc4 #agj ,ib4 ii4 #aif4 #aga ,ib4 ii4 #aih4 #agb ,ib4 ii4 #bji4 ,gammadion1 or ,filfot1 a "n by :i*1 at "o "t 9 ,engl&1 x 0 g5]ally kn[n4 ,sev]al pieces 9 ?is collection exhibit on !m "s modification ( x1 z ,nos4 #abfa1 p4 #cd2 #acbe1 p4 #fj2 #gjeb1 p4 #abg2 #hbgi;,a1 p4 #agd2 #hcje1 p4 #ahe2 #hfce1 p4 #bdb2 #hfeb1 p4 #bdi4 ,its figure is made out ( ! usual f\r gammas1 s t !y %\ld fall toge!r ?us 3 ( its high antiquity & symbolism1 we speak fur!r on1 section ,,vii4 ,silks figur$ ) a cross1 "s made ) f\r1 "s ) eight ,greek gammas1 rema9$ 9 ,ea/]n ,*ur* use all ?r\gh ! middle ages1 z we may ga!r f sev]al monum5ts ( t p]iod4 ,besides a good _m o!r books1 ,gori's f9e "o1 8,!saurus ,vet]um ,dipty*orum0 af=ds u sev]al in/ances4#agc ,! "n also rema9$ to su* textiles z we "k f ! ,greek canoni/ ,balsamon1 :o1 writ+ ab\t ! end ( ! twelf? c5tury on episcopal g>m5ts1 calls ! tunic1 or 7) a patt]n7 ( gammas--gammadion4 ,h[ to ?is day ! cross made by f\r gammas is wov5 on ,greek ve/m5ts1 may be obs]v$ 9 ! plates we h giv5 9 8,hi]urgia40#agd ,two late specim5s ( 8/aurac90 are 9 ?is collection "u ,nos4 #gjci1 p4 #abc2 #gjdh1 p4 #abf2 & #hbej;,a1 p4 #afa4 #agc ,t4 iii4 p4 #hd4 #agd ,pp4 #dde1 #ddh1 second edition4 ,( silks patt]n$ ) ! ,greek cross or 8/aurac910 !re are sev]al examples 9 ?is collection2 & ?\gh n ( ! remote/ p]iod1 are int]e/+2 ! "o ,no4 #hbcd1 p4 #aed1 wr\ght 9 ,sicily z x is probable by ! ,greeks br\ght z prison]s f ! ,morea1 9 ! twelf? c5tury1 is n )\t "s value4 ,9 ! ,*apt] ,libr>y at ,durham may be se5 a valuable sample ( ,byzant9e /aurac9 8col\rs purple & crimson2 ! only prom95t ornam5t a cross--(t5 repeat$1 ev5 ^u ! small portion :i* rema9s40#age ,^? :o h se5 9 ,/4 ,pet]'s sacri/y at ,rome1 t beautiful light-blue dalmatic said to h be5 worn by ,*>lemagne :5 he sang ! ,gospel at high mass1 at ! alt>1 ve/$ z a deacon1 ! day he 0 cr[n$ emp]or 9 t *ur* by ,pope ,leo ,,iii4 w rememb] h[ pl5tifully x is spr9kl$ ) crosses betwe5 its exquisite embroid]ies1 s z to make ! ve/m5t a real 8/aurac940 ,x has be5 well giv5 by ,sulpiz ,boiss]e 9 8 8,kais] ,dalmatika 9 d] ,/4 ,pet]skir*e20 b f> bett] by ,dr4 ,bock 9 8 spl5did "w on ! ,coronation ,robes ( ! ,g]man emp]ors4 ,silks1 f ! patt]n wov5 on !m call$ de fundato1 are frequ5tly spok5 ( by ,ana/asius4 ,f ! texts !mselves ( t writ]1 & passages 9 o!r au?ors ( 8 "t1 x w\ld seem t ! silks !mselves 7 dy$ ( ! ri*e/ purple1 & figur$ ) gold 9 ! patt]n ( nett+4 ,z "o ( ! mean+s = ! sub/antive 8funda0 is a fi%]man's net1 ri* textiles s figur$ 9 gold1 7 d5om9at$ f su* a patt]n 8de fundato0 or nett$4 ,to ,/4 ,pet]'s ,*ur* at ,rome ! pontiff1 ,leo ,,iii4 gave 8cort9am majorem ,alex&r9am holos]icam hab5tem 9 m$io adjunctum fundatum1 et 9 circuitu ornatum de fundato20#agf & = ! ,*ur* ( ,/4 ,paul's1 ,leo provid$ 8vela holos]ica majora sigillata hab5tia p]iclys9 et crucem tam de blatt9 seu de fundato40#agg ,f ,=tunatus we ga!r t ^? co/ly purple-dy$ silks call$ 8blatta10 7 always int]wov5 ) gold3-- ,s]ica purpureis /]nuntur vell]a velis1 ,inlita blatta toris1 aurumque int]micat o/ro4#agh ,?is net-patt]n l+]$ long1 &1 no d\bt1 we f9d x1 "u a new "n1 8laqueatus0--me%$--z id5tifi$ ^u a cope made ( baudek91 at ,/4 ,paul's1 ,london1 ,a4,d4 #abie3 8,capa de baudek9o cum p9eis 7fir-apples7 9 campis laqueatis40#agi ,modifications ( ?is v old patt]n may be se5 9 ?is catalogue 7pp4 #ce1 #cf1 #aed74 #age ,ra9e's ,/4 ,cu?b]t1 p4 #aif4 #agf ,lib4 ,pontif4 ii4 #bhb4 #agg ,ibid4 #bdj4 #agh ,de ,vita ,s4 ,m>t9i lib4 ii4 #agi ,dugdale's ,/4 ,paul's1 p4 #cah4 ,! ,lat9 t]m 8de fundato10 = ?is net-patt]n1 s unusual1 has = _m be5 q a puzzle4 ,"h1 too1 art-works are our be/ help to prop]ly und]/& ! mean+ ( ! ^w4 ,! p]son ( ,con/ant9e ! ,great1 giv5 by ,gori1#ahj z well z t ( a mu* lat] p]sonage1 %[n u by ,du ,cange1 at ! end ( 8 8,gloss>ium10#aha %[s ! front ( ! imp]ial tunic1 :i* 0 purple1 to h be5 figur$ 9 gold ) a nett+-patt]n1 m>k$ ) pe>ls4 ,gori1 moreov]1 pres5ts u ) a bi%op ^: *asuble is ( ! same design4#ahb ,fur!r /ill1 ,paciaudi1 9 8 8,de ,cultu ,s4 ,johannis ,bapti/10#ahc furni%es a bett] illu/ration1 if possible1 by an engrav+ ( a dipty* fir/ publi%$ by him4 ,"h ,/4 ,jacobus1 or ,james1 is array$ 9 *asuble & pall ( nett+-patt]n$ silk2 & ( ! same-figur$ /uff is mu* ( ! trimm+ or ornam5tation on ! robes ( ! ,b4 ,v4 ,m>y1 b on ^? m especially worn by ! ar*angels1 ,/4 ,mi*ael & ,gabriel4 ,9 ! diap]$ patt]n on "s ( ! clo? ( gold f\nd lately 9 ! grave ( "s ar*bi%op ( ,york1 buri$ !re ab\t ! end ( ! ?irte5? c5tury1 is ! same nett+ disc]nible4 #ahj ,t4 iii4 p4 xx4 #aha ,t4 viii4 plate #e4 #ahb ,ib4 p4 #hd4 #ahc ,p4 #chi4 ,/rip$ or b>r$ silks--/ragulat--got _! especial "n = su* a simple patt]n1 & at "o "t 7 9 mu* reque/4 ,frequ5t m5tion is made ( !m 9 ! ,exet] ,inv5tories1 ( :i* ! "o tak51 ,a4,d4 #abgg1 specifies1 8,due palle de baudekyno--una /ragulata20#ahd & ,a4,d4 #acbg1 ! same ca!dral _h1 8,unum filatorium de s]ico bonum /ragulatum cum s]ico div]si coloris10#ahe a veil or sc>f = ! sub-deacon1 made ( silk /rip$ 9 diff]5t col\rs4 ,! illum9ations on ! ,,ms4 among ! ,h>ley collection at ! ,briti% ,museum1 ( ! deposition ( ,ri*>d ,,ii4 publi%$ by ! ,society ( ,antiqu>ies1 af=d u in/ances ( ?is textile4 ,! "y nobleman to ! "r sitt+ on ! gr\nd at ! ar*bi%op's s]mon1 is entirely1 hood & all1 array$ 9 ?is /rip$ silk1#ahf & at ! alt>1 :]e ,nor?umb]l& is swe>+ on ! ,eu*>i/1 ! prie/ :o is say+ mass1 we>s a *asuble ( ! same /uff4#ahg ,old ,/4 ,paul's _h copes l x3 8,cap fact de uno panno s]ico vet]i pro p>te albi coloris1 pro p>te viridi20#ahh besides :i*1 x _h (f]tory-veils ( ! same patt]n1 "o ( !m ) its /ripes paly r$ & gre53--8,unum (f]torium /ragulatum1 de rubeo et viridi20 & two o!rs ) _! /ripes b5dy-wise3 8,duo (f]toria b5data de op]e ,s>ac5o40#ahi ,york ,ca!dral also _h two r$ palls pal$ ) gre5 & light blue3 8,du pall rubi palyd cum viridi et blodio10#aij s admirably edit$ = ! ,surtees ,society1 by ,rev4 ,jas4 ,ra9e1 jun4 ,"u ?is k9d ( patt]n$ silks mu/ be put "o ! "n = :i* has hi!rto n be5 expla9$ by our ,engli% antiqu>ies4 ,at ! end ( ! twelf? c5tury !re 0 br\ght to ,engl&1 f ,greece1 a sort ( preci\s silk nam$ !re ,imp]ial4 ,ralph1 dean ( ,/4 ,paul's ca!dral1 ,london1 tells u1 t ,william de ,magna ,villa1 on com+ home f 8 pilgrimage to ! ,holy ,l&1 made pres5ts to sev]al *ur*es1 ,a4,d4 #aagh1 ( clo?s :i* at ,con/ant9ople 7 call$ imp]ial3 8,pannos quos ,con/ant9opolis civitas vocat ,imp]iales1 c40#aia ,relat+ ! /ory ( ,john's app>ition1 ,a4,d4 #abbf1 ,rog] ,w5dov]1 & aft] him ,matt4 ,p>is1 tells u t ! ,k+ /ood =? dress$ 9 royal robes made ( ! /uff !y call ,imp]ial3 8,a/itit rex 9 ve/ibus regalibus de panno scilicet quem imp]ialem appellant40#aib ,9 ! ,inv5tory ( ,/4 ,paul's1 ,london1 drawn up ,a4,d4 #abie1 f\r tunicles1 ve/m5ts = subdeacons & l[] m9i/]s ab\t ! alt>1 are m5tion$ z made ( ?is imp]ial4 ,no col\r is specifi$1 except 9 ! "o in/ance ( ! silk be+ m>bl$2 & ! patt]ns are notic$ z ( r$ & gre51 ) lions wove 9 gold4#aic ,x seems n to h be5 ?\ght good en\gh = ! m important ve/m5ts1 su* z *asubles & copes4 ,7 x n spok5 ( ?us by ,w5dov] & ,p>is1 z well z by a dean ( ,/4 ,paul's1 & m5tion$ once z us$ 9 a few liturgical g>m5ts = t ca!dral1 we _h nev] he>d a ^w ab\t su* a textile any:]e 9 ,engl&4 ,our belief is t x got its "n nei!r f its col\r--suppos$ royal purple--nor its co/l9ess1 b ?r\gh q ano!r reason3 wov5 at a work%op kept up by ! ,byzant9e emp]ors1 j l ! ,gobel9s is to-day 9 ,p>is by ! ,fr5*1 & be>+ ab\t x "s small1 ?\gh noticeable m>k1 x took ! designation ( 8,imp]ial40 ,t x 0 p>tly wr\ght ) gold1 we "k2 b t its t9t 0 always "s %ade ( ! imp]ial purple--h5ce its appellation--is a purely gratuit\s assumption4 ,moreov]1 z ,s>ac5ic pr9ces 9 g5]al _h wr\ght 9 _! own palaces1 at ! tiraz !re1 ^? silks want$ by !mselves1 _! fri5ds1 & (fic]s1 & caus$ !m to be m>k$ ) "s adopt$ ^w or s5t5ce2 s1 too1 ! rul]s ( ,byzantium foll[$1 x is likely ! same usage1 & put "s royal device or ^w1 or "n 9 ,greek ^u !irs1 & h5ce su* textiles took ! "n ( ,imp]ial4 ,9 ,france1 ?is textile 0 9 use z late z ! second half ( ! fifte5? c5tury1 b look$ ^u z old4 ,"h1 at ,york1 z late z ! e>ly "p ( ! sixte5?1 "o ( its deans be/[$ on t ca!dral 8two 7blue7 copes ( clo! imp]ialle40#aid #ahd ,ed4 ,oliv]1 p4 #bih4 #ahe ,ib4 p4 #cab4 #ahf ,plate v4 p4 #ec4 #ahg ,plate xii4 p4 #ada4 #ahh ,dugdale's ,/4 ,paul's1 p4 #cah4 #ahi ,ib4 #aij ,york ,fabric ,rolls1 p4 #bcj4 #aia ,hi/4 ,anglic4 ,script4 ,x4 t4 i4 p4 #fjb1 ed4 ,twysd54 #aib ,rog4 de ,w5dov]1 ,*ronica1 t4 iv4 p4 #abg1 ed4 ,coxe4 #aic ,p4 #cbb4 #aid ,fabric ,rolls1 p4 #caj4 ,,baudek9 ,0 a co/ly /uff mu* employ$ & (t5 spok5 ( 9 our lit]ature dur+ _m ye>s ( ! m$ival p]iod4 ,ciclat\n1 z we h else:]e rem>k$1 0 ! usual t]m dur+ c5turies ?r\gh\t ,we/]n ,europe1 by :i* ^? %[y gold5 textiles 7 call$4 ,:51 h[ev]1 ,bagdad1 or ,baldak1 /&+ :]e once /ood ! ,babylon ( old1 took & held = no %ort l5g? ( "t ! lead all ov] ,asia 9 weav+1 e k9d ( f9e silks & 9 especial gold5 /uffs %ot1 z n[1 9 diff]5t col\rs1 clo?s ( gold s t9t$ became e :]e kn[n m p>ticul>ly among u ,engli% z 8baldak910 8baudek910 or 8baudkyn10 or silks f ,baldak4 ,at la/ ! e>li] t]m 8ciclat\n0 dropp$ q out ( use4 ,) ?is be=e him ! read] w h]eaft] m readily und]/& sev]al o!rwise puzzl+ passages 9 _m ( our old writ]s 9 poetry & prose1 z well z 9 ! inv5tories ( royal furniture & *ur* ve/m5ts4 ,our k+s & our nobility affect$ mu* ?is ri* /uff = ! g>m5ts worn by !m on high occasions4 ,:51 ,a4,d4 #abdg1 gird+ 9 ,we/m9/] ,abbey ,william de ,val5ce 8 ut]9e bro!r1 a knight1 our ,h5ry ,,iii4 _h on a robe ( baudek91 or clo?-(-gold1 likely %ot ) crimson silk3 8,dom9us ,rex ve/e deaurata facta de preciosissimo ,baldek9o et coronula aurea1 qu vulg>it] g>l&a dicitur r$imitus1 s$5s gloriose 9 solio regio1 fratrem suum ut]9um1 bal!o milit>i gaud5t] insignivit40#aie ,9 ! ye> #abei ! ma/] ( ,%]born ,hospital 9 ! nor?1 bequea!d to t h\se a cope made ( clo?-(-gold1 or 8baudek930--8,capam de panno ad aurum scilicet ,baudek9 cum ve/im5to pl5>io de panno ,yspani ad aurum40#aif ,b ^! ,bagdad or ,baldak silks1 ) a weft ( gold kn[n among u z 8baudek9s0 7 (t5 wove v l>ge 9 size1 & appli$ "h 9 ,engl& to especial ritual purposes4 ,z a ?anks-(f]+ aft] a safe return home f a j\rney1 !y 7 br\ght & giv5 to ! alt>2 at all ! solemn burials ( our k+s & que5s1 & o!r great ones1 ea* ( ! _m m\rn]s1 :5 (f]tory "t came1 w5t to ! illum9at$ he>se1--"o is figur$ 9 ! 8,*ur* ( ,our ,fa!rs10#aig--;& /rew$ a baudek9 ( co/ly texture ov] ! c(f94 ,arti/s or o!rs :o wi% to "k ! c]emonial = t occasion1 w f9d x set =? 9 ! descriptions ( _m ( our m$ival fun]als4 ,at ! obsequies ( ,h5ry ,,vii4 9 ,we/m9/] ,abbey3--8,twoe h]auds came to ! ,duke ( ,buck4 & to ! ,e>les & convey$ !m into ! ,reve/rie :]e !y did receive c]t5 ,palles :i* ev]ie ( !m did br+e solemply betw5e !ire h&s & comm+e 9 ord] "o be=e ano!r z !y 7 9 degree unto ! said h]se1 ?ay kiss$ !ire said palles & deliv]$ !m unto ! said h]audes :i* laide !m uppon ! kyngs corps1 9 ?is mann]3 ! palle :i* 0 fir/ (f]$ by ! ,duke ( ,buck4 0 laid on l5g? on ! said corps1 & ! residewe 7 laid acrosse1 z ?ick z !y might lie40#aih ,9 ! same *ur* at ! burial ( ,anne ( ,cleves1 ,a4,d4 #aeeg1 a l c]emonial ( c>ry+ clo?-(-gold palls to ! he>se 0 foll[$4#aii #aie ,matt4 ,p>is1 p4 #bdi4 #aif ,wills1 c4 ( ! ,nor!rn ,c\nties ( ,engl&1 ,surtees ,society1 p4 #f4 #aig ,tom4 ii4 p4 #eja4 #aih ,lel&i ,collectanea1 t4 iv4 p4 #cjh4 #aii ,exc]pta ,hi/orica1 p4 #cab4 ,among ! _m ri* textiles belong+ to ,/4 ,paul's1 ,london1 ,a4,d4 #abie1 are m5tion$3 8,baudekynus purpureus cum columpnis et arcubus et hom9ibus equitantibus infra1 de fun]e comitiss ,britanni4 ,item baudekynus purpureus cum columpnis et arcubus et ,sampson =tis infra arcus1 de dono ,dom9i ,h5rici ,regis4 ,duo baudekyni rubei cum sagitt>ijs infra rotas1 de dono ,e4 regis et reg9 v5i5tium de ,wallia1 ,unus ,baudekynus rubei campi cum griffonibus1 pro anima ,alianor reg9 junioris10#bjj c4 ,at times ^! ri* /uffs 7 cut up into *asubles3 8,casula de baudekyno de op]e ,s>ac5ico10#bja z 0 ! clo?-(-gold dress worn by "o ( our pr9cesses at h] betro?al3 8,unam ve/im5tum rubeum de panno adaurato div]sis avibus p\dratum1 9 quo dom9a pr9cipessa fuit desponsata40#bjb ,! ^w 8baudek90 itself became at la/ n>r[$ 9 its mean+4 ,s w>m1 s mell[1 s fa/ 7 all ! tones ( crimson :i* ! dy]s ( ,bagdad knew h[ to give _! silks1 t )\t a ?read ( gold 9 !m1 ! m]e gl[+ t9ts ( ^? pla9 crimson silk5 webs f ,bagdad won = !mselves ! "n ( baudek9s4 ,fur!rmore1 :5 !y q ceas$ to be p>tly wov5 9 gold1 & f _! consequ5t l[] price & *eapness got into use = clo?s ( e/ate ov] royal ?rones1 on common occasions1 ! %ort5$ =m ( su* a regal emblem1 ! canopy hung ov] ! high alt> ( a *ur*1 acquir$1 & yet keeps its appellation1 at lea/ 9 ,italy1 ( 8balda*9o40 #bjj ,dugdale's ,/4 ,paul's1 pp4 #cbh-i4 #bja ,ibid4 p4 #cca4 #bjb ,inv5tory ( ! ,*apel1 ,w9dsor ,ca/le1 ,mon4 ,ang4 viii4 #acfc4 ,h[ v full 9 size1 h[ co/ly 9 mat]ials & embroid]y1 mu/ h sometimes be5 ! clo? ( e/ate spread ov]head & beh9d ! ?rone ( our k+s1 may be ga!r$ f ! 8,privy ,purse ,exp5ses ( ,h5ry ! ,sev5?10 :]e9 ?is item comes3 8,to ,antony ,corsse = a clo? ( an e/ate conteyn+ #dg y]ds1 #aa ! y]d1 #ebb #ajs40#bjc ,ab\t ! feudal "r1 /ill kept up 9 ,rome1 to a clo? ( e/ate1 among ! cont95tal nobility1 we h spok51 p4 #ajg ( ?is catalogue1 :]e a fragm5t ( su* a hang+ is describ$4 ,! cu/om itself is ?us notic$ by ,*auc]3-- ,yet n]e & n]e =? 9 ,i gan me dress ,into an hall ( noble app>aile1 ,) arras spr$1 & clo? ( gold ,i gesse1 ,& o!r silke ( easi] availe3 ,"u ! clo? ( _! e/ate sauns faile ,! k+ & qu5e !re sat z ,i beheld4#bjd #bjc ,exc]pta ,hi/orica1 p4 #aba4 #bjd ,poems1 ed4 ,nicolas1 t4 vi4 p4 #acd4 ,?is same ri* gold5 /uff asks = our notice "u a ?ird & ev5 bett] kn[n "n1 to be f\nd all ?r\gh our e>ly lit]ature z ,,clo? ,,( ,,pall4 ,! cloak 79 ,lat9 pallium1 9 ,anglo-,saxon paell7 ( /ate = regal c]emonies & high occasions1 worn alike by m5 z well z wom51 0 always made ( ! mo/ gorge\s /uff t c\ld be f\nd4 ,f a v e>ly p]iod 9 ! m$ival ages1 gold5 webs %ot 9 silk ) "o or o!r ( ! v>i\s col\rs--occasionally blue1 (t5] crimson--7 s\ght out1 z may be easily imag9$1 = ! purpose1 ?r\gh s _m ye>s1 & ev]y:]e1 t at la/ ea* sort ( clo? ( gold _h giv5 to x ! "n ( 8pall10 no matt] ! imm$iate purpose to :i* x might h to be appli$1 & aft] s _m fa%ions4 ,ve/m5ts = *ur* use & g>m5ts = knights & ladies 7 made ( x4 ,old ,/4 ,paul's _h *asubles & copes ( clo? ( pall3 8,casula de pal1 capa *ori de pal1 c40#bje ,9 worldly use1 if ! k+'s daught] 0 to h a ,mantell ( ry*e degre ,purple palle & armyne fre4#bjf ,s 9 ! poem ( ,sir ,isumbras-- ,! ri* que5 9 hall 0 set2 ,knights h] s]v$1 at h& & feet ,9 ri* robes ( pall4#bjg #bje ,hi/4 ed4 ,dugdale1 p4 #ccf4 #bjf ,! ,squire ( ,l[ ,degree4 #bjg ,ellis's ,metrical ,romances1 t4 iii4 p4 #afg4 ,= /ate receptions1 our k+s us$ to s5d out an ord] t ! h\ses %\ld be 8curta9$0 all along ! /reets :i* ! procession w\ld h to take ?r\gh ,london1 8incort9>etur40#bjh ,h[ ?is 0 done we le>n f ,*auc] 9 ! 8,knight's ,tale10#bji ,by ord9ance1 ?urgh\t ! cite l>ge ,hang$ ) clo? ( gold1 & n ) s>ge2 z well z f ! 8,life ( ,alex&]30-- ,al !o city 0 by-hong ,( ri*e baudekyns & pellis 7palls7 among4#baj ,h5ce1 :5 ,elizabe?1 our ,h5ry ,,vii4's que51 8proce$$ f ! ,t[re ?r[ge ! ,citie ( ,london 7= h] coronation7 to ,we/m9/]1 al ! /rets !r wi* %e %ulde passe by1 7 cl5ly dress$ & bes5e ) clo!s ( ,tappe/reye & ,arras4 ,& "s /rets1 z ,*eepe1 hangg$ ) ri*e clo!s ( gold1 velvetts1 & silks1 c4#baa 8,z late z ,a4,d4 #aeee1 at ,b[ *yr*e 9 ,london 0 hangyd ) clo? ( gold & ) ry*e h>es 7arras740#bab ,^? same feel+s :i* quick5$ our d\ghty knights & high-born ladies to g & ov]spread ! bi] ( ea* dead noble fri5d1 ) co/ly baudek9s or clo?s ( gold1 s ! *ur* :isp]$ & %e :isp]s u /ill to d1 9 due degree1 ! same to ! c(f9 9 :i* ! poor man is be+ c>ri$ to ! grave b5ea? a mantle ( silk & velvet4 ,! bro!r or ! si/] belong+ to any ( our old ,london gilds _h ov] !m1 h[ev] l[ly !y might h be5 9 life1 "o or o!r ( ^? spl5did he>se-clo?s :i* we saw 9 ?is museum1 among ! loans1 9 ! ev] memorable ye> #ahfb4 ,?is silk5 textile int]wove ) gold1 fir/ kn[n z 8ciclat\n10 on acc\nt ( its glitt]1 !n z 8baudek910 f ! city :]e x 0 be/ made1 came at la/ to be call$ by ! "n ( 8pall40 ,:e!r employ$ on jubilant occasions1 = a joyful betro?al1 or a /ately coronation1 or = a sorr[+ fun]al1 x matt]$ n1 x got ! common t]m ( 8clo? ( pall10 :i* we yet keep up 9 t velvet cov]+ = a c(f91 a burial pall4 #bjh ,matt4 ,p>is1 p4 #ffa4 #bji ,v4 #befi-gj4 #baj ,w>ton's ,hi/4 ( ,engli% ,poetry1 t4 ii4 p4 #h4 #baa ,lel&'s ,collectanea1 t4 iv4 p4 #bbj4 #bab ,ma*yn's ,di>y1 p4 #ajb4 ,,lett]$ ,,silks are ( no uncommon occurr5ce1 & "s examples may be se5 9 ?is collection4 ,a celebrat$ ,mohamm$an writ]1 ,ebn-,khald\n1 :o di$ ab\t ! middle ( ! fifte5? c5tury1 :ile speak+ ( t spot 9 an ,arab palace1 ! 8,tiraz10 s designat$ f ! "n itself ( ! ri* silk5 /uffs !re9 wov51 tells u t ( ! attributes ( all ,s>ac5ic k+s & sultans1 & :i* became a p>ticul> usage = rul+ dyna/ies1 "o 0 to h wov5 ! "n ( ! actual pr9ce1 or t special ensign *os5 by 8 h\se1 into ! /uffs int5d$ = _! p]sonal we>1 :e!r wr\ght ( silk1 brocade1 or ev5 co>s] k9d ( silk4 ,:ile ge>+ 8 loom1 ! workman contriv$ t ! lett]s ( ! title %\ld come out ei!r 9 ?reads ( gold1 or 9 silk ( ano!r col\r f t ( ! gr\nd4 ,! royal app>el ?us bore ab\t x its own especial m>ks emblematic ( ! sultan's w>drobe1 & s became ! di/+ui%+ ensigne ( ! pr9ce himself1 z well z = ^? p]sonages ar\nd him1 :o 7 all[$1 by _! (ficial rank 9 8 c\rt1 to we> !m1 & ^? aga9 ^u :om he _h condesc5d$ to be/[ su* g>m5ts z especial tok5s ( ! imp]ial fav\r1 l ! mod]n pelisse ( hon\r4 ,be=e ! p]iod ( _! hav+ embrac$ ,islamism ! ,k+s ( ,p]sia us$ to h wov5 ^u ! /uffs wr\ght = _! p]sonal use1 or z gifts to o!rs1 _! own especial effigies or lik5ess1 or at times ! peculi> ensign ( _! royalty4 ,on becom+ ,mussulmans1 ! rul]s ( t k+dom *ang$ ! cu/om1 & in/ead ( portraiture sub/itut$ _! names1 to :i* !y add$ words s\nd+ to _! e>s z =ebod+ good1 or c]ta9 =mulas ( praise & b5$iction4#bac ,:]ev] ! ,moslem rul$1 !re did he set up ! same practice2 & ?us1 :e!r 9 ,asia1 9 ,egypt1 or o!r p>ts ( ,africa1 or 9 ,moori% ,spa91 ! silk5 g>m5ts = royalty & its fav\r$ ones1 %[$ wov5 9 !m ! pr9ce's "n1 or at lea/ 8 *os5 badge4 ,! silk5 g>m5ts wr\ght 9 ,egypt = ! f>-fam$ ,salad91 & worn by him z its ,kalif1 bore v conspicu\sly ^u !m ! "n ( t conqu]or4 ,9 our old li/s ( *ur* ornam5ts1 frequ5t m5tion is f\nd ( ve/m5ts inscrib$1 l pieces "h1 ) words 9 real or pret5d$ ,arabic2 & :5 ,/4 ,paul's inv5tory m ?an once speaks ( silk5 /uffs1 8de op]e ,s>ac5o10 we lean to ! belief t1 ?\gh n all1 "s at lea/ ( ^? textiles 7 s call$ f hav+ ,arabic *>act]s wov5 on !m4 ,su*1 too1 7 ! lett]s on ! r$ pall1 figur$ ) elephants & a bird1 belong+ to ,exet]3 8,palla rubea cum quibusdam lit]is et elephantis et quadam avi 9 sup]iori p>te40#bad ,lat]1 our trade ) ! ,s\? ( ,spa9 & ! ,moors !re1 l$ u to call su* words on wov5 /uffs ,moori%1 z we f9d 9 old docum5ts1 ?us ,joane ,lady ,b]gav5ny bequea?s 7,a4,d4 #adcd7 a 8hullyng 7hang+s = a hall7 ( black1 r$1 & gre51 ) morys lett]s1 c40#bae ,! weav+ ( lett]s 9 textiles is nei!r a ,moori%1 nor ,s>ac5ic inv5tion2 ages be=e1 ! anci5t ,p>?ians us$ to d s1 z we le>n f ,pl9y3 8,p>?i lit]as ve/ibus intexunt40 ,a curi\s illu/ration ( silk5 /uffs s frequ5tly be>+ lett]s1 borr[$ 9 g5]al f "s real or suppos$ ori5tal alphabet1 is ! cu/om :i* _m ( ! illum9ators _h ( figur+ v (t5 on frontals & alt> canopies1 made ( silk1 mean+less words2 & ! arti/s ( ,italy up to ! middle ( ! sixte5? c5tury did ! same on ! hems ( ! g>m5ts worn by great p]sonages1 9 _! pa9t+s4 ,on ! inscrib$ textiles "h1 ! real or pret5d$ ,arabic s5t5ce is writt5 twice on ! same l9e1 once =w>ds1 once backw>ds4 #bac ,silve/re ,de ,sacy1 ,*re/oma?ie ,arabe1 t4 ii4 p4 #bhg4 #bad ,oliv]1 p4 #bih4 #bae ,te/4 ,vet4 i4 p4 #bbh4 ,,! ,,eagle1 s+le & d\ble-head$1 may frequ5tly be f\nd 9 ! patt]ns ( old silks4 ,9 all ages c]ta9 birds ( prey h be5 look$ ^u by hea!ns z om9\s = good or evil4 ,( ?is our own c\ntry af=ds u a m\rnful example4 ,^u ! /&>d :i* 0 c>ri$ at ! head ( ! ,dani% ma/]s ( ,nor?umbria 0 figur$ ! rav51 ! bird ( ,od94 ,?is bann] _h be5 wov5 & work$ by ! daught]s ( ,regn> ,lodbrok1 9 "o noontide's :ile2 & ^? hea!ns believ$ t if victory 0 to foll[1 ! rav5 w\ld seem to /& erect1 & z if ab\t to so> be=e ! w>riors1 b if a defeat 0 imp5d+1 ! rav5 hung 8 head & droop$ 8 w+s2 z we are told by ,ass]3 8,pagani accep]unt illud vexillum quod ,reafan nom9ant3 dicunt enim quod tres sorores ,hung>i et ,habb fili videlicet ,lodebro*i illud vexillum texu]unt et totum p>av]unt illud uno m]idiano tempore3 dicunt etiam quod1 9 omni bello ubi prc$]et idem signum1 si victoriam adepturi ess5t1 app]]et 9 m$io signi quasi corvus viv5s volitans3 s9 v]o v9c5di 9 futuro fuiss5t1 p5d]et directe nihil mov5s40#baf ,ano!r & a m important flag1 t :i* ,h>old & 8 ,anglo-,saxons f\ght "u & lo/ at ,ha/+s1 is describ$ by ,malmesbury z hav+ be5 embroid]$ 9 gold1 ) ! figure ( a man 9 ! act ( fight+1 & /udd$ ) preci\s /ones1 all done 9 sumptu\s art3 8,quod 7vexillum7 erat 9 hom9is pugnantis figura auro et lapidibus arte sumptuosa intextum40#bag ,/ill f>!r d[n 9 pa/ ages1 kn[n = its d>+ & its l(ty flight1 ! eagle 0 held 9 high repute2 ?r\gh\t all ! ,ea/1 :]e x became ! emblem ( lordly p[] & victory1 (t5 x is to be se5 fly+ 9 triumph ov] ! head ( "s ,assyrian conqu]or1 z may be witness$ 9 ,lay>d's ,"w on ,n9eveh4#bah ,hom] calls x ! bird ( ,jove4 ,^u ! yoke 9 ! w> *>iot ( ! ,p]sian k+ ,d>ius sat p]*$ an eagle z if out/ret*+ 8 w+s wr\ght all 9 gold3 8,auream aquilam p9nas ext5d5ti similem40#bai ,! sight ( ?is bird 9 ! air :ile a battle rag$ 01 by ! hea!n look$ ^u z an om5 bod+ victory to ^? on ^: side x hov]$4 ,at ! battle ( ,granicus ^? ab\t ,alex&] saw or ?\ght !y saw flutt]+ j above 8 head1 q he$less ( ! d91 an eagle1 to :i* ,ari/&] call$ ! att5tion ( ! ,mac$onians z an unmi/akable e>ne/ ( success3 8,qui circa ,alex&rum erant1 vidisse se cr$id]unt1 paululum sup] caput regis placide volantem aquilam non gemitu mori5tium t]ritam ,ari/&] 444 militibus 9 pugnam int5tis avem mon/rabat1 haud dubium victori auspicium40#bbj ,! ,romans bore x on _! /&>ds2 ! ,byzant9e emp]ors kept x z _! own device1 & foll[+ ! anci5t traditions ( ! ea/1 & he$less ( _! law t =bids ! mak+ ( images1 ! ,s>ac5s1 especially :5 !y rul$ 9 ,egypt1 _h ! eagle figur$ on sev]al ?+s ab\t !m1 sometimes s+le at o!rs d\ble-head$1 :i* latt] 0 ! %ape adopt$ by ! emp]ors ( ,g]many z _! blazon2 & 9 ?is =m x is borne to ?is day by sev]al reign+ h\ses4 ,no wond] !n t eagles ( bo? fa%ions are s (t5 to be obs]v$ wov5 ^u anci5t & ea/]n textiles4 ,v likely1 z yet left to %[ itself ^u ! walls ( ! citadel at ,cairo1 & ^? curi\s old glass lamps hung up !re & else:]e 9 ! mosques1 ! d\ble-head$ eagle ) w+s display$1 :i* we f9d on royal ,s>ac5ic silks1 0 borr[$ by ! ,paynim f ! ,crusad]s1 z x w\ld seem1 & select$ = its ensign by ! gov]nm5t ( ,egypt 9 ! ?irte5? c5tury1 :i* w easily acc\nt = ! pres5ce ( t h]aldic bird ^u s _m specim5s f ,s>ac5ic looms1 to be f\nd 9 ?is collection4 ,! 8tiraz10 9 fact1 0 = silk l ! royal manufactory ( ,dresd5 & ,svres *9a1 or ,gobel9's looms = tape/ry1 & z ! c\rts ( ,france = its m>k or ensign fix$ ^u ! two ,l,ls int]lac$1 & ! h\se ( ,saxony ! two swords plac$ saltire wise1 s at lea/ = ,salad9 & ,egypt1 9 ! middle ages ! d\ble-head$ eagle ) its w+s out/ret*$1 0 ! especial badge or ensign4 ,9 ! same mann] ! sacr$ 8horm10 or tree ( life1 betwe5 ! two rampant lions or *eetahs may be ! m>k ( ,p]sia4 ,z e>ly z ,a4,d4 #abgg ,exet] ,ca!dral reckon$ among h] ve/m5ts sev]al su*2 = in/ance1 a cope ( baudek9 figur$ ) small two-head$ eagles3 8,capa baudekyn cum p>vis aquilis1 ij capita hab5tibus20#bba & our ,h5ry ,,iii4's bro!r1 ,ri*>d ! k+ ( ,g]many1 gave to ! same *ur* a cope ( black baudek91 ) eagles 9 gold figur$ on x3 8,una capa de baudek1 nigra cum aquilis deauratis40#bbb ,_m o!r in/ances might be notic$ all ?r\gh ,engl&4 #baf ,ass]ius1 ,de ,rebus ,ge/is lfr$i1 ed4 ,wise1 p4 #cc4 #bag ,w4 ,malmes4 ,ge/a ,regum ,anglorum1 t4 ii4 p4 #dae1 ed4 ,duffus ,h>dy4 #bah ,plates1 #ah1 #bj1 #bb4 #bai ,qu9tus ,curtius1 ,lib4 ,,iii4 cap4 iii4 p4 #g4 #bbj ,ibid4 ,lib4 ,,iv4 cap4 xv4 p4 #gb4 #bba ,oliv]1 p4 #bii4 #bbb ,ibid4 ,z 9 ar*itecture1 sculpture1 & pa9t+1 anci5t & mod]n1 s ,,9 ,,wov5 ,,/uffs ,,!re ,,are ,,/yles ,,nicely ,,def9$1 ,,& ,,epo*s ,,easily ,,disc]nible4 ,hi!rto no attempt has be5 any:]e made to di/ribute old5 silk5 textiles into v>i\s s*ools1 & z ! pres5t is ! fir/ & only collection :i* has 9 any c\ntry be5 ?r[n op5 z yet to ! public1 ! occasion seems a fitt+ "o to w>rant su* an endeav\r ( classification4 ,) no o!r ?an ! specim5s "h be=e u1 we ?9k we see !m fall into ^! sev]al gr\ps--,*9ese1 ,p]sian1 ,byzant9e1 ,ori5tal or ,indian1 ,syrian1 ,s>ac5ic1 ,moresco-,spani%1 ,sicilian1 ,italian1 ,flemi%1 ,briti%1 & ,fr5*4 ,*9ese examples "h are v few2 b :at !y are1 :e!r pla9 or figur$1 !y are beautiful 9 _! own way4 ,f all t we "k ( ! p1 we are l$ to believe _! own way two ?\s& ye>s ago is precisely !irs /ill1 s t ! web wr\ght by !m ?is ye> or two hundr$ ye>s ago1 l ,no4 #acfh1 p4 #ge1 w\ld n diff] h>dly 9 a l9e f _! textiles two ?\s& ye>s gone by1 :5 ,dionysius ,p]iegetes wrote t1 ! 8,s]es make preci\s figur$ g>m5ts1 resembl+ 9 col\r ! fl[]s ( ! field1 & rivall+ 9 f95ess ! "w ( spid]s40 ,9 ! /uffs1 w>p & wo( are ( silk1 & bo? ( ! be/ k9ds4 ,p]sian textiles1 ev5 z we see !m 9 ?is collection1 mu/ h be5 = _m c5turies j z !y 7 ev] figur$1 & may be1 ev5 n[1 describ$ by ! words ( ,qu9tus ,curtius1 ) "s little all[ance = ^? influ5ces ex]cis$ ^u ! m9d ( ! weav] by 8 peculi> religi\s belief1 :i* w\ld n let ! l[lie/ workman =get ! 8homa10 or tree ( life4 ,:5 ,m>co ,polo travell$ ?r\gh ^? p>ts1 9 ! ?irte5? c5tury1 & our c\ntryman1 ,sir ,john ,m&eville1 a hundr$ ye>s lat]1 ! old love = hunt+ wild bea/s /ill liv$1 & ! pr9ces ( ! c\ntry 7 z fond z ev] ( tra9+ ! *eetah1 a k9d ( small lion or leop>d1 = ! *ase1 z we h notic$1 p4 #agh4 ,:5 ! design is made up ( v>i\s k9ds ( bea/s & birds1 real or imag9>y1 ) ! sport+ *eetah nicely spott$ among !m2 & ! 8homa0 conspicu\sly set =? above all2 sure may we be t ! web 0 wr\ght by ,p]sians1 & on mo/ occasions ! textile w be f\nd 9 all its p>ts to be wov5 f ! ri*e/ mat]ials4 ,z an illu/ration ( ! ,p]sian type ( /yle1 ,no4 #hbcc1 p4 #aed1 may be tak5 z a specim54 ,= trade purposes1 & to make ! textile pass 9 ! ,european m>ket z f ,p]sia1 ! mann] ( its loom 0 (t5 copi$ by ! ,jewi% & ! ,*ri/ian weav]s 9 ,syria1 z we %all h to notice j n[4 ,! ,byzant9e ,greeks1 = _! textiles f ! "t :5 9 ! six? c5tury !y began to weave home-gr[n silk1 made = !mselves a s*ool ( design :i* kept up 9 _! draw+ n a little ( ! beauty1 bread?1 & fl[+ outl9e :i* _h outliv$ among !m ! days ( hea!ni% art4 ,along ) ?is a /rong feel+ ( _! ,*ri/ianity %[$ itself z well 9 _m ( ! subjects :i* !y took out ( holy writ1 z 9 ! small] elem5ts ( ornam5tation4 ,figures1 :e!r ( ! human =m or ( bea/s1 are giv5 9 a mu* l>g] & bold] size ?an on any o!r anci5t /uffs4 ,?\gh !re be v few kn[n specim5s f ! old looms ( ,con/ant9ople1 ! "o "h1 ,no4 #gjcf1 p4 #abb1 %[+ ,samson wre/l+ ) a lion1 may s]ve z a type4 ,9 ! ye> #abie old ,/4 ,paul's ,ca!dral1 "h 9 ,london1 w\ld seem to h possess$ sev]al spl5did ve/m5ts made ( ,byzant9e silk1 z we note 9 ! samples to be nam$ infra "u ! head ( ,damask4 ,! way 9 :i* ^? ,greeks gave a patt]n to ! /uff int5d$ m especially = liturgical purposes is po9t$ out :ile speak+ ab\t 8,/aurac90 & ! 8,gammadion10 a =m ( ! cross ) :i* !y p[d]$ _! silks2 p4 lii4 ,! _w-wide fame ( ! ,byzant9e purple t9t is atte/$ by our ,g]ald ,b>ry1 ^: words we quote fur!r on4 ,z a sample ( ! ,byzant9e loom 9 8diaspron10 or diap]+1 we w\ld ref] to ,no4 #abci1 p4 #bf4 ,! specim5s "h f ! ,byzant9e1 & lat] ,greek loom1 are n to be tak5 z by any means appropriate samples ( its g5]al production4 ,!y are poor 9 bo? respects--mat]ial &1 :5 figur$1 design--z may be se5 at pp4 #bg1 #bh1 #cc1 #cf1 #abc1 #abd1 #abf1 #bai1 c4 ,ori5tal anci5t silks & textiles h _! own di/9ctive m>ks4 ,f ,m>co ,polo1 :o w&]$ mu* ov] ! f> ea/1 "s "t dur+ ! ?irte5? c5tury1 we le>n t ! weav+ !re 0 done by wom5 :o wr\ght 9 silk & gold1 aft] a noble mann]1 bea/s & birds ^u _! webs3--8,le loro donne lavorano tutte cose a seta e ad oro e a uccelli e a be/ie nobilm5te e lavorano di cort9e ed altre cose molto ricam5te40#bbc ,out ( ! sev]al specim5s "h f ,t>t>y & ,india1 dur+ our m$ival p]iod1 we pick "o or two :i* %[ well ! mean+ ( ^? words utt]$ by t great ,v5etian travell]1 :ile speak+ ab\t ! textiles he saw 9 ^? c\ntries4 ,! d>k purple piece ( silk1 figur$ 9 gold ) birds & bea/s1 ( ! ?irte5? c5tury1 ,no4 #gjhf1 p4 #acg1 is good2 b bett] /ill = our purpose is ! %r$1 ,no4 #gjhg1 p4 #ach1 ( blue damask1 ) its birds1 its animals1 & fl[]s wr\ght 9 gold1 & diff]5t col\r$ silks4 ,:at ,india is1 x has ev] be51 fam\s = its cl\d-l transp>5t musl9s1 :i* s9ce ,m>co ,polo's days h kept till n[ ev5 t ori5tal "n1 ?r\gh be+ bett] ?an else:]e wov5 at ,mosul4 #bbc ,i ,viaggi di ,m>co ,polo1 ed4 ,a4 ,b>toli1 ,fir5ze1 #ahfe1 p4 #cde4 ,! ,syrian s*ool is well repres5t$ "h by sev]al f9e pieces4 ,! :ole sea-bo>d ( t "p ( ,asia ,m9or1 z well z f> inl&1 0 inhabit$ by a mixture ( ,jews1 ,*ri/ians1 & ,s>ac5s2 & ea* ( ^! p 7 work]s 9 silk4 ,! reputation ( ! neighb\r+ ,p]sia _h ( old /ood high = ! beauty & durability ( h] silk5 textiles1 :i* made !m to be s\ght = by ! ,european trad]s4 ,p]sia's outlet to ! we/ = h] goods1 lay ?r\gh ! great comm]cial ports on ! coa/ ( ,syria4 ,sett+1 l ,p]sia us$ to d1 z x 71 h] own peculi> seal ^u h] figur$ webs1 by m+l+ 9 h] designs ! my/ic 8homa10 to ! ,european m9d ?is "p ( ! patt]n became1 at fir/1 a sort ( assurance t ^? goods _h be5 ?r[n (f by ,p]sian looms4 ,by "o ( ^? tricks ( imitation foll[$ !n1 z well z n[1 ! ,syrian design]s = ! loom ?rew ?is 8homa0 into _! patt]ns4 ,?is symbol ( 8! tree ( life10 _h no d\bt be5 a borr[ by ,zoroa/] f ,holy ,writ4#bbd ,nei!r to ! ,*ri/ian's eye1 nor to ! ,jew's1 nor ,moslem's1 0 !re 9 x any?+ objectionable2 all ?ree1 !re=e1 took x & made x a lead+ portion ( design 9 ! patt]ns ( _! silks2 & h5ce is x t we meet x s (t54 ,?\gh done ) p]haps a fraudul5t int5tion ( palm+ on ! _w ,syrian = real ,p]sian silks1 ^? ,syrians usually put into _! own designs a some?+ :i* spoke ( _! peculi> selves & _! workman%ip4 ,?\gh !re be se5 ! 8homa10 ! 8*eetah10 & o!r elem5ts ( ,p]sian patt]ns1 /ill ! discordant two-h&l$ vase1 ! badly imitat$ ,arabic s5t5ce1 betray ! textile to be n ,p]sian1 b ,syrian4 ,no4 #hcei1 p4 #bac1 w readily exemplify our mean+4 ,fur!rmore1 p]haps q innoc5t ( any k ab\t ,p]sia's fir/ belief1 & h] use ( ! 8homa0 9 h] old religi\s s]vices1 ! ,*ri/ian weav]s ( ,syria1 along ) ! ,zora/]ian symbol1 put ! sign ( ! cross by ! side ( t 8tree ( life10 z we f9d ^u ! piece ( silk1 ,no4 #gjid1 p4 #adj4 ,ano!r rem>kable specim5 ( ! ,syrian loom is ,no4 #gjcd1 p4 #abb1 :]eon ! ,n9eveh lions come =? s conspicu\sly4 ,z a good example ( well-wr\ght 8diaspron0 or diap]1 ,no4 #hbcc1 p4 #aed1 may be m5tion$1 along ) ,no4 #gjeb1 p4 #abg4 #bbd ,g5esis ii4 #i4 ,s>ac5ic weav+1 z %[n by ! design ^u ! web1 is exemplifi$ 9 sev]al specim5s be=e u4 ,h[ev] mu* aga9/ :at looks l a he$lessness ( ! ,koran's tea*+s1 c]ta9 x is t ! ,s>ac5s1 ^? ( ! upp] classes 9 p>ticul>1 felt no difficulty 9 we>+ robes ^u :i* animals & ! lik5esses ( o!r creat$ ?+s 7 wov52 ) ! /ricte/ ( _! pr9ces1 a d\ble-head$ eagle 0 a royal h]aldic device1 z we h %[n1 p4 lxiii4 ,/uffs1 !n1 figur$ ) birds & bea/s1 ) trees & fl[]s1 7 n ! less ( ,s>ac5ic workman%ip1 & meant = ,moslem we>4 ,:at1 h[ev]1 may be look$ = ^u real ,s>ac5ic textures is a patt]n consi/+ ( longitud9al /ripes ( blue1 r$1 gre51 & o!r col\r2 "s ( !m *>g$ ) animals1 small 9 =m1 o!r "s writt51 9 l>ge ,arabic lett]s1 ) a ^w or s5t5ce1 (t5 a prov]b1 (t5 a good wi% or "s wise saw4 ,z examples we w\ld po9t to ,no4 #hbhh1 p4 #agh1 & #gjea1 p4 #abg4 ,= a fair specim5 ( diap]+1 ,no4 #gjej1 p4 #abg1 :ile ,no4 #hfci1 p4 #bdc1 pres5ts u ) a design hav+ 9 x1 besides ! cresc5t moon1 a pro( t ar*itectural =ms 7 n =gott5 by ! weav]-draughtsman1 9 8 sket*es = ! loom4 ,lat]1 9 our *apt] on ,tape/ry1 we %all h occasion to speak ab\t ano!r sort ( ,s>ac5ic "w or tape/ry1 ( ! k9d call$ abroad1 f ! position ( its frame1 ( ! basse lisse4 ,moresco-,spani%1 or ,s>ac5ic textiles1 wr\ght 9 ,spa91 ?\gh p>tak+ ( ! /rip$ patt]n1 & be>+ words 9 real or imitat$ ,arabic1 _h "s di/9ctions ( _! own4 ,! designs %[n ^u ^! /uffs are almo/ always drawn out ( /rap-"w1 reticulations1 or "s comb9ation or ano!r ( geometrical l9es1 amid :i* are occasionally to be f\nd diff]5t =ms ( conv5tional fl[]s4 ,specim5s are to be se5 "h at pp4 #ea1 #ee1 #aba1 #abd1 #abe1 #ahf1 #bdj1 c4 ,sometimes1 b v r>ely1 ! cresc5t moon is figur$ z 9 ! curi\s piece1 ,no4 #hfci1 p4 #bdc4 ,! col\rs ( ^! silks are usually ei!r a f9e crimson1 or a deep blue ) almo/ always a f9e ton$ yell[ z a gr\nd4 ,b "o rem>kable feature 9 ^! ,moresco-,spani% textiles is ! pres5ce1 :5 gold is br\ght 91 ( an +5i\s ?\gh fraudul5t imitation ( ! preci\s metal1 = :i* %r$s ( gild$ p>*m5t cut up into n>r[ flat /rips are sub/itut$1 & wov5 ) ! silk4 ,?is1 :5 fre%1 mu/ h look$ v bright1 & h giv5 ! web all ! appe>ance ( ^? fav\rite /uffs call$ "h 9 ,engl& 8tissues10 ( :i* we h already spok51 p4 xxiii4 ,we are n aw>e t ?is trick has ev] be5 f\nd out be=e1 & x 0 only by ! use ( a highly magnify+ glass t we p5etrat$ ! secret4 ,our suspicion 0 awak5$ by s (t5 obs]v+ t ! gold _h become q black4 ,examples ( ?is gilt vellum may be se5 "h1 at ,nos4 #gjie1 p4 #adj2 #heij1 p4 #bbd2 #hfci1 p4 #bdd2 c4 ,:5 ! ,*ri/ian ,spani% weav]s liv$ beyond ,s>ac5ic control1 !y fill$ _! designs ) bea/s1 birds1 & fl[]s2 b ev5 !n ! old ,spani% f9e tone ( crimson is r /rik+ 9 _! webs1 z is evid5c$ 9 ! beautiful piece ( diap]1 ,no4 #accf1 p4 #fd4 ,spani% velvets--& !y 7 mo/ly wr\ght 9 ,&alusia--are rem>kably f9e & conspicu\s bo? = _! deep s(t pile1 & _! gl[+ ruby tones2 b :5 wov5 aft] ! mann] ( velvet ^u velvet1 are v preci\s3 a good specim5 ( ri* texture1 & mell[ col\r+ is furni%$ by ! *asuble at ,no4 #acge1 p4 #ha4 ,! ,sicilian s*ool /rongly m>k$ ! wide diff]5ces betwe5 itself & all ! o!rs :i* _h liv$ be=e2 & ! hi/ory ( its loom is z int]e/+ z x is v>i$4 ,! fir/ to tea* ! natives ( ,sicily ! use ( cotton = _! g>m5ts1 & h[ to re> ! silkworm & sp9 its silk1 71 z x w\ld seem1 ! ,mahom$ans1 :o1 9 com+ ov] f ,africa1 br\ght along ) !m1 besides ! art ( weav+ silk5 textiles1 a k ( ! fauna ( t va/ cont95t--its giraffes1 its antelopes1 its gazelles1 its lions1 its elephants4 ,^! ,mussulmans told !m1 too1 ( ! p>rots ( ,india & ! hunt+ sort ( lion1--! *eetahs1 t 7 f\nd 9 ,asia2 & :5 ! /uff _h to be wr\ght = ,european we>1 imag$ bo? bea/ & bird ^u ! web1 at ! same "t t !y wove a ^w 9 ,arabic1 ( greet+ to be read among ! fl[]s4 ,l all o!r ,s>ac5s1 ^? 9 ,sicily lov$ to m+le gold 9 _! tissues2 &1 to sp>e ! silk1 cotton ?read 0 n unfrequ5tly work$ up 9 ! w>p4 ,:51 !re=e1 we meet ) bea/s tak5 f ! fauna ( ,africa1 su*1 especially1 z ! giraffe1 & ! sev]al classes ( ! antelope family--9 p>ticul> ! gazelle--)1 some:]e ab\t1 an ,arabic motto--& "p ( ! patt]n wr\ght 9 gold1 :i*1 at fir/ poor & ?91 is n[ become black1 z well z cotton 9 ! w>p1 we may fairly take ! specim5 z a piece ( ,sicily's "w 9 its fir/ p]iod ( weav+1 all s ,s>ac5ic to ! eye4 ,ev5 :5 t ,moslem nation _h be5 driv5 out by ! ,normans1 if _m ( its p did n /ay z workm5 9 silk at ,pal]mo1 yet !y left _! tea*+s 9 weav+ & design beh9d !m1 & _! practices 71 ye>s aft]w>ds1 /ill foll[$4 ,n[ we rea* ,sicily's second epo*4 ,:ile at w> ) ! ,byzant9es1 9 ! twelf? c5tury1 ,rog]1 ,k+ ( ,sicily1 took ,cor9?1 ,!bes1 & ,a!ns1 f ea* ( :i* cities he l$ away captives all ! m5 & wom5 he c\ld f9d :o knew h[ to weave silks1 & c>ri$ !m to ,pal]mo4 ,to ! ,norman tiraz !re1 ^! ,grecian new com]s br\ght fre% designs1 :i* 7 adopt$ sometimes :olly1 at o!rs b 9 "p & mix$ up ) ! old] ,s>ac5ic /yle1 = silks wr\ght "u ! ,normano-,sicilian dyna/y4 ,9 ?is second p]iod ( ! isl&'s loom we discov] :at traces ! ,byzant9e s*ool _h impress$ ^u ,sicilian silks1 & help$ s mu* to alt] ! type ( _! design4 ,on "o silk1 a grotesque mask amid ! graceful tw9+s ( luxuriant foliage1 su* z might h be5 !n f\nd by !m ^u _m a fragm5t ( old ,greek sculpture1 0 ! patt]n1 z we witness1 at ,no4 #hbda1 p4 #aeh2 on ano!r1 a sov]eign on horseback we>+ ! royal cr[n1 & c>ry+ z he rides a hawk ^u 8 wri/--tok5 bo? ( ! love = lordly sports at ! p]iod1 & ! feudalism all ov] ,italy & ,*ri/5dom1 %[n 9 ! piece1 ,no4 #hehi1 p4 #bbc2 on a ?ird1 ,no4 #hbcd1 p4 #aed1 is ! ,greek cross1 along ) a patt]n mu* l ! old nett$ or 8de fundato0 k9d :i* we h describ$1 p4 liii4 ,b ,sicily's ?ird is q h] own peculi> /yle4 ,at ! end ( ! ?irte5? & beg9n+ ( ! f\rte5? c5tury1 %e /ruck out ( h]self into q an unkn[n pa? = design4 ,)\t ?r[+ aside ! old elem5ts employ$ till !n especially1 all ov] ! ea/1 & among ! re/1 by ! ,mahom$ans1 ,sicily put along ) !m ! emblem ( ,*ri/ianity1 ! cross1 9 v>i\s =ms1 on "s occasions ) ! lett] ,v4 f\r times repeat$1 & s plac$ toge!r z to fall into ! %ape ( ?is symbol1 l :at we f9d at ,no4 #abde1 p4 #bh2 9 o!r in/ances ! cross is floriat$1 z at ,no4 #abic1 p4 #dg4 ,f ! f> ea/ to ! utt]mo/ we/]n bord]s ( ! ,m$it]ranean ! weav]s ( e c\ntry _h be5 9 ! habit ( figur+ ^u _! silks ^? bea/s & birds !y saw ar\nd !m3 ! ,t>t>1 ! ,indian1 & ! ,p]sian gave u ! p>rot & ! *eetah2 ! m5 ( ,africa ! giraffe & ! gazelle2 ! p ( ea* cont95t ! lions1 ! elephants1 ! eagles1 & ! o!r birds common to bo?4 ,f ! poetry & sculpture ( ! ,greeks & ,romans c\ld ! ,sicilians h easily le>n$ ab\t ! fabl$ griff9 & ! c5taur2 b x 0 left = _! own wild imag9+s to figure z !y h1 su* an odd comp\nd 9 "o be+ z ! animal--half elephant1 half griff9--:i* we see 9 ,no4 #abhh1 p4 #de4 ,_! d>+ flights ( fancy 9 c\pl+ ! difficult ) ! beautiful1 are curi\s2 9 "o place1 ,no4 #acjb1 p4 #ej1 l>ge eagles are p]*$ 9 pairs ) a radiat+ sun betwe5 !m1 & b5ea? dogs1 9 pairs1 runn+ ) heads turn$ back1 c42 9 ano!r1 ,no4 #acjd1 p4 #ea1 runn+ h>ts h caught "o ( _! h9d legs 9 a cord ti$ to _! coll>1 & an eagle swoops d[n ^u !m2 & ! same animal1 9 ano!r place1 on ! same piece has swit*$ its tail into ! la/ l9k ( a *a9 fa/5$ to its neck2 on a ?ird sample1 ,no4 #hehh1 p4 #bbb1 we behold figur$1 h>ts1 ! lett] ,m floriat$1 w+$ lions1 crosses floriat$1 crosses spr\t+ out on two sides ) fleurs-de-lis1 f\r-legg$ mon/]s1 "s l w+$ lions1 "s bit+ _! tails4 ,exet] ,ca!dral _h a clo? ( gold purple cope1 figur$ ) 8draconibus volantibus ac t55tibus caudas proprias 9 ore10#bbe doves 9 pairs uphold+ a cross1 c4 ,h>dly else:]e to be f\nd are c]ta9 elem5ts peculi> to ! patt]ns ^u silks f m$ival ,sicily2 su*1 = in/ance1 z h>ts1 & demi-dogs ) v l>ge w+s1 bo? animals hav+ rem>kably long manes /ream+ f> beh9d !m1 ,no4 #abgi1 p4 #da2 h>ts aga91 b lodg$ b5ea? gre5 trees1 9 a p>k ) pal+ ab\t x1 z 9 ,no4 #abhc1 p4 #dc1 & ,no4 #hgaj1 p4 #bfi2 t (t-recurr+ sun %$d+ its beams ) eagles peck+ at !m1 or gaz+ undazzl$ at ! lum9>y1 pp4 #dh1 #ej1 #acg1 b sometimes /ags1 z at pp4 #ed1 #bci1 c>ry+ _! well attir$ heads upturn$ to a l>ge p5cil ( ^? sunbeams z !y d>t d[n ^u !m amid a %[] ( ra9-drops4 ,( birds1 ! hawk1 ! eagle1 d\ble & s+le head$1 ! p>rot1 may be f\nd on /uffs all ov] ! ea/2 n s1 h[ev]1 ) ! swan1 yet ?is maje/ic creature 0 a fav\rite ) ,sicilians1 & may be se5 "h (t5 drawn ) great gracefulness1 z at ,nos4 #abgg1 p4 #da2 #abii1 p4 #di2 #hbfd1 p4 #aff2 #hfaj1 p4 #bcb1 c4 #bbe ,oliv]1 p4 #cde4 ,! ,sicilians %[$ _! /rong affection = c]ta9 plants & fl[]s4 ,on a great _m ( ! silks 9 ?is collection1 f ,pal]mitan looms1 we see figur$ ^u a tawny-col\r$ gr\nd+1 beautifully drawn foliage 9 gre52 :i*1 on a ne>] inspection1 be>s ! lik5ess ( p>sley1 s curl$1 crispy & s]rat$ are its leaves4 ,besides _! *]i%$ p>sley along ) ! v9e-leaf = foliage1 !y _h _! especial fav\rite among fl[]s2 & x is ! c5taurea cyanus1 our corn blue-bottle1 %[n among o!rs 9 ,no4 #abhc1 c4 p4 #dc1 ,no4 #abia1 p4 #dg1 ,no4 #acjh1 p4 #ec4 ,ano!r peculi>ity ( !irs is ! introduction ( ! lett] ,u1 repeat$ s z at times to m>k ! fea!r+ ^u ! tails ( birds2 at o!rs1 to fall into ! %ape ( an ,o1 z we po9t$ out at pp4 #dj1 #bbe1 #bbg1 #bbh4 ,:e!r x 0 t1 l our own ,ri*>d ,i41 crusad]s 9 aft] times (t5 made ,sicily ! halt+ spot on _! way to ! ,holy ,l&1 or t knights cr[d$ !re = o!r purposes1 & ?us dazzl$ ! eyes ( ! isl&]s ) ! brav]y ( _! armorial be>+s1 figur$ on _! cyclases & p5nons1 _! flags & %ields1 c]ta9 is x t ^! ,sicilians 7 p>ticul>ly giv5 to introduce a deal ( h]aldic *>ges--wyv]ns1 eagles1 lions rampant1 & griff9s--into _! designs2 & ! v num]\s occasions 9 :i* su* elem5ts ( blazon+ come 91 are v noticeable1 s t "o ( ! features belong+ to ! ,sicilian loom 9 its ?ird p]iod1 is t1 bat+ t9ctures1 x is s decid$ly h]aldic4 ,n ! la/ among ! peculi>ities ( ! ?ird p]iod 9 ! ,sicilian s*ool is ! use1 = _m ( its /uffs1 ( two c]ta9 col\rs--murrey1 = ! gr\nd1 & a bright gre5 = ! patt]n4 ,:5 ! fawn-col\r$ gr\nd is gracefully spr9kl$ ) p>sley leaves1 & nicely trail$ ) bran*es ( ! v9e1 & %[s bea/s & birds disport+ !mselves betwe5 ! b\ghs ( lively joy\s gre52 ! effect is *e]ful1 z may be witness$ 9 ^? specim5s ,no4 #heid1 p4 #bbf1 ,no4 #hfjb1 p4 #bbi1 ,no4 #hfjg1 p4 #bca1 ,nos4 #hfji1 #hfaj1 p4 #bcb1 all ( :i* s admirably exemplify ! /yle4 ,all _! beauty & happ9ess ( inv5tion1 set =? by bold1 free1 spirit$ draw+1 7 be/[$1 if n ?r[n away1 too (t5 ^u /uffs ( a v poor inf]ior quality1 9 :i* ! gold1 if n actually base1 0 always scanty1 & a good deal ( cotton 0 sure to be f\nd wr\ght up along ) ! silk4 ,?\gh ,pal]mo 01 )\t d\bt1 ! great work%op = weav+ ,sicilian silks1 t trade us$ to be c>ri$ on n only 9 o!r cities ( ! isl&1 b rea*$ t[ns l ,reggio & o!r su* 9 ,magna ,grcia1 nor?w>d up to ,naples4 ,we ?9k t1 z f> z ! two ,sicilies are conc]n$1 ! gr[? ( ! cotton plant always w5t along ) ! re>+ ( ! silkworm4 ,( ! ma9-l& loom we w\ld specify ,no4 #hbef1 p4 #afc1 ,no4 #hfcd1 p4 #bdb1 ,no4 #hfch1 p4 #bdc4 ,till )9 a few ye>s ! royal manufactory at ,/a4 ,leucia1 ne> ,naples1 produc$ silks ( rem>kable ri*ness2 & ! piece1 likely f t city itself1 ,no4 #gba1 p4 #ac1 does cr$it to its loom1 z x wove 9 ! sev5te5? c5tury4 ,nor!rn ,italy 0 n idle2 & ! looms :i* %e set up 9 sev]al ( h] great cities1 9 ,lucca1 ,flor5ce1 ,g5oa1 ,v5ice & ,milan1 e>n$ ap>t = !mselves a good repute 9 "s p>ticul>s1 & a wide trade = _! gold & silv] tissues1 _! velvets1 & _! figur$ silk5 textiles4 ,yet1 l z ea* ( ^! free /ates _h its own acc5t & prov9cialisms 9 spee*1 s too _h x a some?+ (t5 ?r[n into its designs & /yle ( draw+ :i* told ( ! place & prov9ce :5ce ! textiles came4 ,lucca at an e>ly p]iod made h]self kn[n 9 ,europe = h] textiles2 b h] draughtsm51 l ^? ( ,sicily1 seem to h ?\ght !mselves b\nd to foll[ ! /yle hi!rto 9 use1 br\ght by ! ,s>ac5s1 ( figur+ p>rots & peacocks1 gazelles1 & ev5 *eetahs1 z we behold 9 ! specim5s "h ,no4 #hbeh1 p4 #afc1 & ,no4 #hfaf1 p4 #bcd4 ,b1 at ! same "t1 along ) ^! ea/]n animals1 %e mix$ up emblems ( h] own1 su* z angels clo!d 9 :ite1 l 9 ! example ! la/ m5tion$4 ,%e soon dropp$ :at 0 ori5tal f h] patt]ns1 :i* %e began to draw 9 a l>g]1 bold] mann]1 z we obs]ve1 "u ,no4 #hfcg1 p4 #bdc1 ,no4 #hfdj1 p4 #bdd1 & %[+ an incl9ation = light blue1 z a col\r4 ,z 9 o!r places abroad1 s at ,lucca1 clo?s ( gold & ( silv] 7 (t5 wr\ght1 & ! ,luc*ese clo?s ( ?is co/ly sort 71 "h 9 ,engl&1 dur+ ! f\rte5? c5tury1 9 p>ticul> reque/4 ,9 all likelihood !y 71 bo? ( !m1 n ( ! dead5$ b sp>kl+ k9d1 aft]w>ds especially kn[n z 8tissue40 ,exet] ,ca!dral1 ,a4,d4 #acbg1 _h a cope ( silv] tissue1 or clo? ( ,lucca3--8una capa alba de panno de ,luk40#bbf ,at a lat] date1 belong+ to ! same *ur*1 7 two f9e *asubles--"o purple1 ! o!r r$--( ! same glitt]+ /uff1 8casula de purpyll panno10 c41#bbg :]e we f9d x specifi$ t n only 0 ! textile ( gold1 b ( t especial sort call$ tissue4 ,york ca!dral 0 p>ticul>ly furni%$ ) a great _m copes ( tissue %ot ) e col\r requir$ by its ritual1 & among !m 7--8a reade cope ( clo! ( ti%ewe ) orphry ( pe>l1 a cope ) orphrey1 a cope ( rais$ clo! ( g\lde10#bbh mak+ a di/9ction betwe5 tissue & ! ord9>y clo? ( gold4 ,b at ! c\rt ( our ,edw>d ,,ii4 its fav\r w\ld seem to h be5 ! highe/4 ,9 ! ,w>drobe ,acc\nts ( t k+1 we see ! gold5 tissue1 or ,lucca clo?1 sev]al times m5tion$4 ,:e!r ! c]emony happ5$ to be sad or gay1 ?is gli/5+ web 0 us$2 palls made ( ,lucca clo? 71 at masses = ! dead1 /rew$ ov] ! corpse2 at m>riages ! c>e-clo? 0 made ( ! same /uff2 ?us :5 ,ri*>d de ,arundell & ,isabella1 ,hugh le ,desp5s]'s daught]1 _h be5 w$d$ at ! door ( ! royal *apel1 ! veil held spread out ov] _! heads z !y knelt inside ! *ancel dur+ ! nuptial mass1 = ! bless+1 0 ( ,lucca clo?4#bbi ,ri*>d ,,ii4's fondness = ?is clo? ( gold 0 lately notic$1 p4 xxx4 ,j ab\t ,edw>d ,,ii4's "t 0 x t velvet became kn[n1 & got into use among/ our *ur*m5 = ve/m5ts1 & our nobles = p]sonal we>1 & ! likelihood is t ,lucca 0 among ! fir/ places 9 ,europe to weave x4 ,! specim5s "h ( ?is f9e textile f ,luc*ese looms1 ?\gh 9 comp>ison ) ^? f ,g5oa1 !y be few & mo/ly aft] "o mann]--! rais$ or cut--/ill h n[ a c]ta9 hi/orical value = ! ,engli% workman3 ,no4 #aceg1 p4 #gb1 ) its olive gre5 pla9 silk5 gr\nd1 & trail$ all ov] ) fl[]s & leaves 9 a some:at deep] tone1 & ! e>li] example1 ,no4 #hcbb1 p4 #aib1 ) its ovals & fea!r+ /opp$ ) graceful cusps & arti*okes1 af=d u good in/ances ( :at ,lucca c\ld produce 9 ! way ( arti/ic velvets4 #bbf ,oliv]1 p4 #cae4 #bbg ,p4 #cdd4 #bbh ,york ,fabric ,rolls1 p4 #cjh4 ,g5oa1 ?\gh 9 f> (f m$ival times n s conspicu\s z %e aft]w>ds became = h] textile indu/ry1 /ill mu/ h f a remote p]iod1 enc\rag$ )9 h] walls1 & ov] h] n>r[ t]ritory1 ! weav+ ( silk5 webs4 ,( ^! ! e>lie/ m5tion we any:]e f9d1 is to be se5 9 ! inv5tory ( ^? co/ly ve/m5ts once belong+ to our own ,/4 ,paul's ,ca!dral1 ,london1 9 ! ye> #abie3 besides a cope ( ,g5oa clo?1 t *ur* _h1 f ! same place1 a hang+ patt]n$ ) :eels & two-head$ birds4#bcj ,?\gh ?is fir/ description be scant1 we read 9 x q en\gh to ga!r t ^! ,g5oese clo?s mu/ h entirely resembl$ ! textiles wr\ght at ,lucca1 b1 9 p>ticul>1 9 ,sicily4 ,p]haps !y _h be5 c>ri$ by trade f ,pal]mo to ! nor?-we/ %ores ( ,italy1 :5ce !y 7 br\ght 9 ! same way to ,engl&1 s t !y may be deem$ to h rea*$ u n s mu* f ! looms !mselves ( ,g5oa1 z ^? ( "s o!r place1 b ?r\gh h] !n great port4 ,( ,g5oa's own weav+ ( beautiful velvets !re c be no d\bt1 a reputation %e keeps to ! pres5t day z f> z pla9 velvet is conc]n$4 ,9 ?is collection we h samples 9 e k9d ( ,g5oese velvets1 f ^? ) a smoo? unbrok5 surface to ! elaborately patt]n$ ones--art-wr\ght velvets 9 fact--%[+1 toge!r ) wond]ful skill 9 ! weav+1 mu* beauty ( design4 ,among ! pla9 velvets 9 :i* we h no?+ b great s(tness & dep? ( pile1 along ) cle> bright lum9\s tones ( col\r1 ,no4 #edj1 p4 #c1 is a v fair specim5 = its delici\s ri*ness ( pile2 & ,no4 #hccd1 p4 #aii1 n m]ely = ?is prop]ty1 b z well = its lightsome mell[ deep t9t ( crimson4 ,gett+ to :at may be truly call$ art-velvets1 we come to sev]al specim5s "h4 ,"s are rais$ or cut1 ! design be+ done 9 a pile /&+ well up by itself f out ( a flat gr\nd ( silk1 sometimes ( ! same1 sometimes ( ano!r col\r1 & n unfrequ5tly wr\ght 9 gold1 z at pp4 #ah1 #ij1 #ajg1 #aaj1 #bfc4 ,!n we h at ,no4 #ggie1 p4 #ade1 an example ( t preci\s k9d--velvet ^u velvet--9 :i* ! gr\nd is velvet1 & aga9 ( velvet is ! patt]n itself1 b rais$ "o pile high] & well above ! o!r1 s z to %[ its =m & %ape di/9ctly4 ,la/ ( all we "h f9d samples1 z 9 ,no4 #hcbc1 p4 #aib1 h[ ! design 0 done 9 v>i\s col\r$ velvet4 ,su* 0 a fav\rite 9 ,engl&1 & call$ motley2 9 8 w1 ,a4,d4 #adae1 ,h5ry ,"l ,scrope bequea!d two ve/m5ts1 "o1 motley velvet rubeo de auro2 ! o!r1 motley velvet nigro1 rubeo et viridi1 c4#bca #bbi ,ar*ologia1 t4 xxvi4 pp4 #ccg1 #cdd4 #bcj ,hi/4 ( ,/4 ,paul's1 ed4 ,dugdale1 pp4 #cah1 #cbi4 #bca ,rym]'s ,fd]a1 t4 #i1 p4 #bgd4 ,v5ice does n seem to h be5 at any "t1 l ,sicily & ,lucca1 smitt5 ) ! ta/e ( imitat+ 9 h] looms at home ! patt]ns :i* %e saw abroad ^u textile fabrics1 b appe>s to h borr[$ f ! ,ori5tals only "o k9d ( weav+ clo? ( gold3 ! yell[ *asuble at ,exet] ,ca!dral1 ,a4,d4 #acbg1 figur$ ) bea/s1 cum be/iis crocei coloris1#bcb is ! solit>y in/ance we "k1 ^u :i* %e wove1 l ! ea/1 animals ^u silks4 ,%e1 h[ev]1 set up = h]self a new bran* ( textiles1 & wr\ght = *ur* use c]ta9 squ>e webs ( a crimson gr\nd on :i* %e figur$1 9 gold1 or on yell[ silk1 subjects tak5 f ! ,new ,te/am5t1 or ! p]sons ( sa9ts & angels4 ,^! squ>e pieces 7 z !y yet are1 employ$1 :5 sew$ toge!r 9 squ>es z frontals to alt>s1 b :5 longwise mu* m g5]ally z orphreys to *asubles1 copes & o!r ve/m5ts4 ,( su* /uffs mu/ h be5 ^? l>ge orphreys ^u a dalmatic & tunicle1 at ,/4 ,paul's ,ca!dral1 ,london1 ,a4,d4 #abie4bcc ,?\gh n ( s e>ly a date z ! ?irte5? c5tury1 !re are 9 ?is collection specim5s ( ?is ,v5etian web belong+ to ! sixte5?1 :i* are v f9e1 ,no4 #eijj1 p4 #aab1 repres5ts ! resurrection ( our ,"l2 s does ,no4 #higf1 p4 #bga1 :ile ,no4 #high1 p4 #bgb1 pres5ts u ) ! coronation ( ! ,virg91 & ,no4 #higf1 ! ,virg9 & ! ,*ild1 z also ,no4 #acce1 p4 #ga4 ,f> bel[ 9 wor? are ! same k9d ( webs wr\ght at ,cologne1 z w be notic$ j n[4 ,any "o t has ev] look$ ^u ! woodcuts done at ,v5ice 9 ! sixte5? c5tury1 su* z illu/rate1 = in/ance1 ! ,roman ,pontifical1 publi%$ by ,giunta1 ! 8,ros>io della ,g4 ,v4 ,m>ia10 by ,v>isco1 & o!r su* religi\s books f ! ,v5etian press1 w1 at a glance1 f9d on ! webs be=e u f t /ate1 ! self-same /yle & mann] 9 draw+1 ! same broad1 nay1 maje/ic fold & fall ( drap]y1 & 9 ! human =m ! same plumpness1 & n unfrequ5tly ) ! facial l9e almo/ /raight2 & !re1 b m especially ab\t ! h&s & feet1 a some:at naturali/ic %ape2 s ne> is ! lik5ess 9 design t "o is l$ to ?9k t ! m5 :o cut ! blocks = ! pr9t]s also work$ = ! weav]s ( ,v5ice1 & sket*$ out ! draw+s = _! looms4 ,by ! fifte5? c5tury ,v5ice knew h[ to produce good damasks 9 silk & gold1 & ( an hi/oriat$ k9d3 if we _h no?+ m ?an ! specim51 ,no4 #acaa1 p4 #ed1 :]e ,/4 ,m>y ( ,egypt is s well repres5t$1 x w\ld be q en\gh = h] to claim = h]self su* a di/9ction4 ,t l h] neighb\rs1 ,v5ice wr\ght 9 velvet1 !re c be little or no d\bt1 & if %e x 0 :o made ^? deep pil$ /uffs1 sometimes rais$1 sometimes pile ^u pile1 9 :i* h] pa9t]s lov$ to dress ! p]sonages1 m5 especially1 9 _! pictures1 !n1 ( a tru?1 ,v5etian velvets 7 beautiful4 ,( ?is1 any "o may satisfy himself by "o visit to our ,national ,gall]y4 ,!re1 9 ! 8,adoration ( ! ,magi10 pa9t$ by ,paulo ,v]onese1 ,a4,d4 #aegc1 ! second ( ! wise m5 is clad 9 a robe all made ( crimson velvet1 cut or rais$ aft] a design q 9 keep+ ) ! /yle ( ! p]iod4 ,no insignificant article ( ,v5etian textile workman%ip 0 h] laces wr\ght 9 e v>iety--9 gold1 9 silk1 9 ?read4 ,! portrait ( a ,doge usually %[s u t dignit>y clo!d 9 8 dress ( /ate4 ,8 wide mantle1 hav+ su* l>ge gold5 buttons1 is made ( "s ri* dull silv] clo?2 & ^u 8 head is t curi\sly ,phrygian-%ap$ ducal cap b\nd r\nd ) broad gold lace diap]$ aft] "s nice patt]n1 z we see 9 ! bu/ portrait ( ,doge ,lor$ano1 pa9t$ by ,john ,bell9i1 & n[ 9 our ,national ,gall]y4 ,n only 0 ! gold 9 ! ?read p>ticul>ly good1 b ! lace itself 9 great fav\r at our c\rt dur+ "o "t1 :]e x us$ to be b\ght1 n by y>d measure1 b by weight2 a p\nde & a half ( gold ( ,v5ys 0 employ$ 8ab\tes ! mak+ ( a lace & botons = ! k+'s mantell ( ! g>t]40#bcd 8,fr5ge ( ,v5ys gold10 appe>s twice1 pp4 #acf1 #afc1 9 ! w>drobe acc\nts ( ,edw>d ,,iv4 ,laces 9 wor/$ or 9 l95 ?read wr\ght by ! bobb9 at ,v5ice2 b m especially h] po9t laces1 or su* z 7 done ) ! ne$le1 always _h1 z inde$ !y /ill h1 a great reputation3 sew$ to table-cov]s1 two specim5s are f\nd 9 ?is collection1 describ$ at p4 #ada4 ,v5etian l95s1 = f9e t[ell+ & nap]y 9 g5]al1 at "o "t 7 9 fav\rite use 9 ,france dur+ a "p ( ! fifte5? c5tury4 ,9 ! 8,ducs de ,b\rgogne10 by ,le ,comte de ,laborde1#bce m ?an once we meet ) su* an entry1 z 8une pice de nappes1 ouvraige de ,v5ise10 c4 #bcb ,oliv]1 p4 #cac4 #bcc ,ed4 ,dugdale1 p4 #cba4 #bcd ,privy ,purse ,exp5ses ( ,elizabe? ( ,york1 p4 #h4 #bce ,t4 ii4 ,preuves1 p4 #ajg4 ,flor5ce1 always s indu/ri\s & art-lov+1 got = its loom1 ab\t ! middle ( ! f\rte5? c5tury1 a place 9 ! =emo/ rank amid ! weav]s ( nor!rn ,italy4 ,specim5s ( h] e>lie/ h&icraft are yet few--only two--"h2 b "o sample ( ! able way 9 :i* %e knew h[ to diap]1 well %[s h] ability3 ,no4 #hefc1 p4 #bae1 wov5 9 ! fifte5? c5tury1 w prove ?is ) ref]5ce to h] secul> silks4 ,! pieces describ$ at pp4 #bjb1 #bfd1 witness ! boldness ( h] design dur+ ! sixte5? c5tury4 ,9 h] webs1 expressly wov5 = *ur*-use1 is x t %e displays h] great ta/e 9 design1 & wond]ful p[]--at lea/ = t "t1 ! f\rte5? c5tury--9 ge>+ ! loom3 ! violet silk damask1 ,no4 #abfe1 p4 #cf1 & ano!r l piece1 ,no4 #gjgb1 p4 #acc1 figur$ ) angels sw++ ?uribles1 or be>+ cr[ns ( ?orns 9 ! h&s1 or hold+ a cross1 w w>rant our rem>ks4 ,! /yle ( do+ ! face & h&s 9 :ite ( ^? o!rwise yell[ angels1 is a peculi>ity ( ! ,tuscan loom4 ,! orphrey-webs ( ,flor5ce are equally conspicu\s = draw+ & skill 9 weav+ z h] ve/m5t textiles1 & 9 beauty come up to ^? done at ,v5ice1 & f> surpass any?+ ( ! k9d ev] wr\ght at ,cologne2 specim5s ( ?is sort ( ,flor5t9e "w may be se5 at ,nos4 #djei1 p4 #hi2 #gjhj1 p4 #acf2 #gfgd1 p4 #adb2 #ggia1 p4 #adc2 #aig1 p4 #bia4 ,along ) ^! may be class$ ! hood ( a cope1 describ$ at ,no4 #hfib1 p4 #bfj1 z well z ! app>els to ! dalmatic & tunicle1 p4 #adc1 :]e ! *]ubic heads h :ite faces4 ,b x 0 ( h] velvets t ,flor5ce might be s w>rantably pr\d4 ,our ,h5ry ,,vii4 9 8 w1 8,te/am5ta ,vetu/a10#bcf bequea!d 8to ,god & ,/4 ,pet]1 & to ! abbot & prior & conv5t ( our mona/]y ( ,we/m9/]1 ! :ole suit ( ve/m5ts to be made at ,flor5ce 9 ,italy40 ,gorge\s & arti/ically design$ 0 ?is textile1 z we may yet see 9 "o ( ^! ,we/m9/] ,abbey copes /ill 9 exi/5ce1 & belong+ to ,/onyhur/ college4 ,! gold5 gr\nd is trail$ all ov] ) leaf-be>+ b\ghs ( a bold type1 9 rais$ or cut ruby-ton$ velvet ( a ri* s(t pile1 :i* is freckl$ ) gold ?read spr\t+ up l loops4 ,?\gh no?+ s ri* 9 mat]ial1 nor s beaute\s 9 patt]n1 !re are "h1 pp4 #add1 #ade1 two specim5s ( ,flor5t9e cut1 crimson velvet on a gold5 gr\nd1 q l 9 sort to ! royal ve/m5ts1 & hav+ too t /rong peculi>ity ^u !m--! little gold ?read loop %oot+ out ( ! velvet pile4 ,?\gh a full c5tury lat] ?an ! spl5did cope at ,/onyhur/1 & ! two pieces ,nos4 #ggib1 #ggii1 ^! illu/rate ! peculi> /yle ( ,tuscan velvets4 ,among ! truly pr9ce-l gifts ( ve/m5ts to ,l9coln ,ca!dral1 by ,john ( ,gaunt & 8 du*ess1 are _m made ( ! ri*e/ crimson velvet ( bo? sorts1 t is1 pla91 & cut or rais$ to a patt]n ^u a gr\nd ( gold1 z = in/ance3--two r$ copes1 ( ! :i* "o is r$ velvet set ) :ite h>ts ly+ 9 col\rs1 full ( ^! lett]s ,s4 ,s41 ) p5d5ts silv] & gilt1 ! h>ts hav+ cr[ns ^u _! necks ) *a9s silv] & gilt2 & ! o!r cope is ( crimson velvet ( preci\s clo? ( gold1 ) images 9 ! orphrey1 c4#bcg ,t peculi> sort ( ornam5tation--! little loop ( gold ?read /&+ well up1 & 9 s+le spots--^u "s velvets1 seems at times to h be5 replac$1 p]haps ) ! ne$le1 by small dots ( solid metal1 gold or silv] gilt1 ^u ! pile2 ( ! gift ( "o ( its bi%ops1 ,john ,gr&isson1 ,exet] ca!dral _h a crimson velvet cope1 ! purple velvet orphrey to :i* 0 s wr\ght3--,de purpyll velvete op]ata cum pyn%$s de puro auro4#bch #bcf ,ed4 ,nicolas1 t4 i4 p4 #cc4 #bcg ,mon4 ,anglic4 viii4 #abha4 #bch ,oliv]1 p4 #cde4 ,milan1 ?\gh n[-a-days %e /&s 9 su* high repute = ! ri*ness & beauty ( h] silks ( all sorts1 0 n1 we believe1 at any p]iod dur+ m$ival times1 z fam\s = h] velvets1 h] brocades1 or clo?s ( gold1 z = h] well wr\ght admirably fa%ion$ arm\r1 s /rong & tru/wor?y = ! field--s furbi%$ & exquisitely damasc5$ = c\rtly s]vice4 ,/ill1 9 ! sixte5? c5tury %e e>n$ a "n = h] ri* cut velvets1 z we may see 9 ! specim51 ,no4 #fih1 p4 #g2 h] silk5 net-"w1 ,no4 #hccf1 p4 #bjj1 :i* may h l$ ! way to weav+ silk /ock+s2 & h] laces ( ! op5 t9sel k9d once 9 su* vogue = liturgical1 z well z secul> attire1 z we h 9 ,no4 #hcca1 p4 #aig4 ,brita91 f h] e>lie/ p]iod1 _h textile fabrics v>y+ 9 design & mat]ial2 ( ! col\rs 9 ! wooll5 g>m5ts worn by ea* ( ! ?ree sev]al classes into :i* our ,b>dic ord] 0 apportion$4 ,( ! *eck]$ patt]n 9 ,boadicea's cloak we h spok5 j n[1 p4 xii4 ,( ! beauty & wide repute ( ,engli% ne$lework1 we %all h to speak :51 a little fur!r on1 we rea* ! subject ( embroid]y4 ,f ,john ,g>l&'s words1 :i* we gave at p4 xxii1 x w\ld seem t all ! light] & m ta/eful webs wr\ght "h came f wom5's h&s2 & ! loom1 "o ( :i* mu/ h be5 9 almo/ e ,engli% nunn]y & home/ead1 0 ( ! simple/ make4 ,9 old5 times1 ! ,egyptians wove 9 an upright loom1 & beg9n+ at top s z to weave d[nw>ds1 sat at _! "w4 ,9 ,pale/9e ! weav] _h an upright loom too1 b beg9n+ at bottom & work+ upw>ds1 0 oblig$ to /&4 ,dur+ ! m$ival p]iod ! loom1 "h at lea/1 0 horizontal1 z is %[n by ! "o figur$ 9 t gorge\sly illum9at$ ,b$=d ,book ( ,h\rs1 fol4 #cb1 at :i* ! ,bless$ ,virg9 ,m>y is seat$ weav+ curta9s = ! temple4 ,z samples ( "o ( ! sev]al k9ds ( "w wr\ght by our nuns & myn*5s1 z well z ,engli% ladies1 we ref] to ,nos4 #abcc1 p4 #bd1 #abef1 p4 #cc1 #abgj1 p4 #ch1 demon/rat+ ! ability ( _! h&icraft z well z elegance 9 design dur+ ! ?irte5? c5tury4 ,= specim5s ( ! common] sorts ( silk5 textiles & ( wid] bread?1 :i* began to be wov5 9 ?is c\ntry "u ,edw>d ,,iii41 x w\ld be z h>d z haz>d\s to direct ! read]4 ,v rec5t examples ( all sorts--velvets among ! re/--may be f\nd 9 ! ,brooke collection4 ,to "s /ud5ts ! piece ( ,old ,engli% pr9t$ *9tz1 ,no4 #afbb1 p4 #hd1 w n be )\t an int]e/4 ,= ! f9] sort ( l95 nap]y1 ,eyli%am or ,aile%am 9 ,l9coln%ire 0 fam\s dur+ ! f\rte5? c5tury4 ,exet] ca!dral1 ,a4,d4 #acbg1 _h 8unum manut]gium de ,eyli%am0--a h& t[el ( ,aile%am clo?4#bci ,our co>s] native textiles 9 wool1 9 ?read or 9 bo?1 wov5 toge!r1 =m+ a /uff call$ 8burel10 made ( :i* ,/4 ,paul's ,london1 ,a4,d4 #abie1 _h a light blue *asuble2#bdj & ,exet] ca!dral1 ,a4,d4 #abgg1 a long pall2#bda all sorts1 9 f9e1 ( heavi] "w1 7 wr\ght 9 our mona/]ies = m54 ,by _! rule ! ,b5$ict9e monks1 & all _! (fsets1 7 b\nd to give a c]ta9 numb] ( h\rs e week-day to h& "w1 ei!r at home or 9 ! field4#bdb ,weep+ ov] ! w>s & /rife 9 ,engl& dur+ ! ye> #abfe & ! woes ( ! p1 our ,mat!w ( ,we/m9/] sums up1 among our losses1 ! fall 9 our trade ( wooll5 /uffs1 ) :i* we us$ to supply ! _w4 ,o ,anglia olim gloriosa 444 licet m>is angu/ata littoribus 444 tibi tam5 p] orbem b5$ix]unt omnium lat]a nationum de tuis ovium vell]ibus calefacta4#bdc ,! weav+ 9 ?is c\ntry ( wooll5 clo?1 z a /aple bran* ( trade1 is old] ?an "s are will+ to believe4 ,( ! monks at ,ba? abbey we are told by a late writ]1 8! %uttle & ! loom employ$ _! att5tion1 7ab\t ! middle ( ! f\rte5? c5tury17 & "u _! active auspices ! weav+ ( wooll5 clo? 7:i* made its appe>ance 9 ,engl& ab\t ! ye> #accj1 & receiv$ ! sanction ( an ,act ( ,p>liam5t 9 #accg7 0 introduc$1 e/abli%$1 & br\ght to su* p]fection at ,ba? z r5d]$ ?is city "o ( ! mo/ consid]able 9 ! we/ ( ,engl& = ?is manufacture40#bdd ,worce/] clo?1 :i* 0 ( a f9e quality1 0 s good1 t by a *apt] ( ! ,b5$ict9e ,ord]1 held ,a4,d4 #adbb1 at ,we/m9/] ,abbey1 x 0 =bidd5 to be worn by ! monks1 & decl>$ sm>t en\gh = milit>y m54#bde ,norwi*1 too1 wove /uffs t 7 9 dem& = co/ly h\sehold furniture1 =1 ,a4,d4 #acid1 ,sir ,john ,cobham bequea!d to 8 fri5ds 8a b$ ( ,norwi* /uff embroid]$ ) butt]flies40#bdf ,9 "o ( ! *apels at ,durham ,priory !re 7 f\r blue cu%ions ( ,norwi* "w4#bdg ,wor/$1 a t[n 9 ,norfolk1 by a new me?od ( its own = ! c>d+ ( ! wool ) combs ( iron well heat$1 & !n twi/+ ! ?read h>d] ?an usual 9 ! sp9n+1 enabl$ our weav]s to produce a wooll5 /uff ( a f9e peculi> quality1 to :i* ! "n itself ( wor/$ 0 imm$iately giv54 ,unto su* a high repute did ! new web gr[ t liturgical raim5t & dome/ic furniture ( ! *oice/ sorts 7 made out ( x2 ,exet] ca!dral1 among its *asubles1 _h sev]al 8de nigro wor/$0 9 clo? ( gold4 ,elizabe? de ,bohun1 ,a4,d4 #acef1 bequea!d to h] daught] ! ,c\ntess ( ,arundel 8a b$ ( r$ wor/$ embroid]$20#bdh & ,joane ,lady ,b]gav5ny leaves to ,john ( ,ormond 8a b$ ( clo? ( gold ) leb>des1 ) ^? cu%ions & tapettes ( my be/ r$ wor/$10#bdi c4 ,( ! sixte5 /&>ds ( wor/$ entail$ ) ! be> & a *a9 :i* float$ al(t 9 ! %ip ( ,beau*amp ,e>l ( ,w>wick1 we h spok5 be=e 7p4 xliii47 ,9 ! 8,fabric ,rolls ( ,york ,m9/]0 ve/m5ts made ( wor/$--!re v>i\sly spelt 8worsett10#bej & 8wory/0#bea--;are enum]at$4 #bci ,oliv]1 p4 #cad4 #bdj ,dugdale's ,/4 ,paul's1 p4 #cbc4 #bda ,oliv]1 p4 #bih4 #bdb ,reg4 ,s4 ,b54 c4 xlviii4 ,de ,op]e ,manuum quotidiano1 p4 #abi2 c4 lvii4 ,de ,artificibus ,mona/]ii1 p4 #aca2 ed4 ,brockie1 t4 i4 8,l5a0 is ! m$ival ,lat9 = a b$ cov]let4 #bdc ,flores ,hi/or4 p4 #cif4 ,frank=t1 ,a4,d4 #afja4 #bdd ,mona/icon ,anglicanum1 t4 ii4 p4 #bei4 #bde ,b5$ict4 9 ,anglia1 ed4 ,reyn]1 ,app4 p4 #afe4 #bdf ,te/am5ta ,vetu/a1 ed4 ,nicolas1 t4 i4 p4 #acf4 #bdg ,hi/4 ,dunelm4 ,scriptores ,tres4 ,app5d4 p4 cclxxxvi4 #bdh ,te/am5ta ,vetu/a1 i4 #fa4 #bdi ,ibid4 p4 #bbg4 #bej ,pp4 #cja1 #cje4 #bea ,p4 #cjb4 ,iri% clo?1 :ite & r$1 9 ! reign ( ,john1 ,a4,d4 #abac1 0 mu* us$ 9 ,engl&2 & 9 ! h\sehold exp5ses ( ,sw9=d1 bi%op ( ,h]e=d1 ,a4,d4 #abij1 an item occurs ( ,iri% clo? = l9+4#beb ,b our weav]s knew h[ to ?r[ (f f _! looms1 arti/ically design$ & well-figur$ webs2 9 ! 8,w>drobe ,acc\nts0 ( our ,edw>d ,,ii4 we read ?is item3 8to a m]c] ( ,london = a gre5 hang+ ( wool wove ) figures ( k+s & e>ls ^u x1 = ! k+'s s]vice 9 8 hall on solemn fea/s at ,london40#bec ,su* 8salles10 z !y 7 call$ 9 ,france1 & 8hull+s10 or r 8hall+s10 ! "n !y w5t "u "h1 7 mu* valu$ abroad1 & 9 common use at home3 "u ! head ( 8,salles d',anglet]re10 among ! articles ( co/ly furniture belong+ to ,*>les ,v4 ( ,france1 ,a4,d4 #acfd1 :o began 8 reign "s =ty ye>s aft] our ,edw>d ,,ii4's dea?1 "o set ( su* hang+s is ?us put d[n3 8une salle d',anglet]re v]meille brode d'azur1 et e/ la bordeure vignettes et le d$5s de lyons1 d'aigles et de lyep>s10 quot$ f ! ,,ms4 ,no4 #hcef1 9 ! ,imp]ial ,libr>y1 ,p>is1 by ,mi*el2#bed :ile "h 9 ,engl&1 ,ri*>d ,e>l ( ,arundel1 ,a4,d4 #acib1 will$ to 8 de> wife 8! hang+s ( ! hall :i* 0 lately made 9 ,london1 ( blue tape/ry ) r$ roses ) ! arms ( my sons10#bee c42 & ,lady ,b]gav5ny1 aft] bequea?+ h] hully+ ( black1 r$1 & gre51 to "o fri5d1 to ano!r left h] be/ /a9$ hall4#bef #beb ,ed4 ,web4 = ! ,camd5 ,society1 p4 #aic1 t4 i4 #bec ,ar*ologia1 t4 xxvi4 p4 #cdd4 #bed ,tom4 i4 p4 #di4 #bee ,te/4 ,vetu/4 t4 i4 p4 #acj4 #bef ,ibid4 pp4 #bbh1 #bbi4 ,flemi% textiles1 at lea/ ( ! less ambiti\s k9ds1 su* z nap]y & wooll5s1 7 mu* e/eem$ c5turies ago1 & our c\ntryman1 ,mat!w ( ,we/m9/]1 says ( ,fl&]s1 t f ! mat]ial--p]haps wool--:i* we s5t h]1 %e s5t u back ^? preci\s g>m5ts %e wove4#beg ,?\gh indu/ri\s ev]y:]e )9 h] limits1 "s ( h] t[ns /ood =emo/ = c]ta9 k9ds ( /uff1 & ,bruges became 9 ! latt] end ( ! fifte5? c5tury conspicu\s = its silk5 textiles4 ,"h 9 ,engl&1 ! sat9s ( ,bruges 7 9 great use = *ur* g>m5ts2 9 ,haconbie *ur*1 ,a4,d4 #aeff1 0 8"o :ite ve/m5te ( ,bridges satt5 repte 9 peces & a clo! made !re( to hange be=e our pulpitt20#beh &1 ,a4,d4 #aebj1 ,york ca!dral _h 8a ve/m5t ( balkyn 7baudek97 ) a crosse ( gre5 satt5 9 bryges40#bei ,h] damask silks 7 equally 9 dem&2 & ! specim5s "h w int]e/ ! read]4 ,nos4 #hcah1 p4 #aij1 #hccb1 p4 #aig1 %[ ! ability ( ! ,bruges loom1 :ile ! !n fav\rite patt]n ) ! pomegranate 9 x1 betrays ! lik+s ( ! ,spani>ds1 at t "t ! rul]s ( ! c\ntry1 = ?is tok5 ( _! belov$ ,isabella's reconqu]$ ,granada4 ,no4 #hcai1 p4 #aia1 is ano!r sample ( ,flemi% weav+1 ri* 9 its gold1 & full ( beauty 9 design4 ,9 h] velvets1 ,fl&]s _h no ne$ to fe> a comp>ison ) any?+ ( ! k9d t ,italy ev] ?rew (f f h] looms1 :e!r at ,v5ice1 ,flor5ce1 or ,g5oa1 z ! samples we h "h "u ,nos4 #hfgc1 p4 #bed1 #hfgd1 p4 #bee1 #hgjd1 p4 #bfd1 w prove4 ,nay1 ?is la/ specim51 ) its clo? ( gold gr\nd1 & its patt]n 9 a d>k blue deep-pil$ velvet1 is n surpass$ 9 gorge\sness ev5 by t spl5did /uff f ,flor5ce yet to be se5 9 "o ( ! copes = ,we/m9/] ,abbey giv5 x by ,h5ry ,,vii4 ,block-pr9t$ l95 01 t[>d ! end ( ! f\rte5? c5tury1 ano!r production ( ,fl&]s1 ( :i* pieces may be se5 at ,nos4 #gjbb1 p4 #aah1 #gjbg1 p4 #abj1 #hcjc1 p4 #ahd1 #hfae1 p4 #bcd4 ,?\gh to ! eyes ( _m1 ^! may look s poor1 s mean2 to m5 l ! cotton-pr9t]s ( ,lanca%ire & o!r places !y w h a /rong attraction2 to ! s*ol> !y w be deeply int]e/+ z sugge/ive ( ! art ( pr9t+4 ,su* specim5s are r>e1 b x is likely t ,engl& c %[1 9 ! *apt] libr>y at ,durham1 ! e>lie/ sample ( ! k9d z yet kn[n1 9 a f9e %eet wrapp$ ab\t ! body ( "s old bi%op discov]$1 along ) sev]al pieces ( anci5t silks1 & /ill m anci5t ,engli% embroid]y1 9 a grave op5$ by ,mr4 ,ra9e1 ,a4,d4 #ahbg1 )9 t gr& nor!rn ca!dral4 ,:at ,bruges 0 9 silks & velvets ,yprs1 9 ! sixte5? c5tury1 became = l951 & = _m ye>s ,flemi% l95s _h be5 9 fav\rite use ?r\gh\t ,engl&4 ,h>dly a *ur* ( any size1 sc>cely a g5tleman's h\se 9 ?is c\ntry1 b us$ a quantity ( t[els & o!r nap]y t 0 made 9 ,fl&]s1 especially at ,yprs4#bfj ,( ?is textile in/ances may be se5 at pp4 #cd1 #gc1 #ge1 #abd1 #bjc1 #bje1 #bee1 #bfc4 #beg ,hi/4 p4 #cif1 ,frank=t1 ,a4,d4 #afja4 #beh ,*ur* ,furniture1 ed4 ,peacock1 p4 #id4 #bei ,fabric ,rolls1 p4 #cjb4 #bfj ,oliv]'s ,exet]1 p4 #cef4 ,fr5* silks1 n[ 9 su* ext5sive use1 7 until ! end ( ! sixte5? c5tury n mu* c>$ = 9 ,france itself1 & seldom he>d ( abroad4 ,! read]1 !n1 mu/ n be a/oni%$ at f9d+ s few examples ( ! ,fr5* loom1 9 a collection ( anci5t silk5 textiles4 ,france1 z ,engl&1 us$ ( old to behold h] wom51 old & "y1 ri* & poor1 :ile fill+ up _! leisure h\rs 9-doors1 at "w on a small loom1 & weav+ c]ta9 n>r[ webs1 (t5 ( gold1 & diap]$ ) col\r$ silks1 z we m5tion$ be=e 7p4 xxii47 ,( su* ,fr5* wr\ght /uffs belong+ to ! ?irte5? c5tury1 "s samples are describ$ at pp4 #bi1 #acj1 #aca4 ,9 damasks1 h] e>lie/ productions are ( ! sixte5? c5tury1 & are describ$ at pp4 #ac1 #bje1 #bjf2 & ! la/ is a fav\rable example ( :at ! loom !n 0 9 ,france2 ev]y?+ lat] is ( t type s well kn[n to ev]ybody4 ,9 sev]al ( h] textiles a lean+ t[>ds classicism 9 design is disc]nible4 ,?\gh s few1 h] clo?s ( gold1 pp4 #i1 #ae1 are good1 m especially ! f9e "o at p4 #ajd4 ,h] velvets1 too1 pp4 #ad1 #hi1 #ajf1 are satisfactory4 ,sat9s f ,france are n _m "h4 ,! curi\s & elaborately ornam5t$ gloves1 p4 #aje1 :i* got into fa%ion1 especially = ladies1 at ! end ( ! sixte5? c5tury1 w be a welcome object = su* z are curi\s 9 ! hi/ory ( wom5's dress1 9 ,france & ,engl&4 ,quilt+1 too1 on cov]lets1 %[n at pp4 #ac1 #ajd1 displays ! ta/e ( our neighb\rs 9 su* /it*]y1 s mu* 9 use among !m & ourselves f ! sixte5? c5tury4 ,l ,fl&]s1 ,france knew h[ to weave f9e l951 :i* "h 9 ,engl& 0 mu* 9 use = ecclesia/ical z well z h\sehold purposes4 ,?ree new clo?s ( ,ra9s 7,r5nes 9 ,brittany7 71 ,a4,d4 #acbg1 9 use = ! high alt> 9 ,exet] ca!dral1#bfa & _m alt>-clo?s ( ,p>is l954 ,9 ! poem ( ! 8,squi] ( ,l[ ,degree10 ! lady is told ,y\r blankettes %al be ( fu/yane1 ,y\r %etes %al be ( clo?s ( rayne2 &1 ,a4,d4 #adcd1 ,joane ,lady ,b]gav5ny devises 9 h] w1 8two pair %eets ( ,raynes1 a pair ( fu/ians10 c4#bfb ,= h] ,ea/] 8,sepul*re0 ,exet] _h a pair ( ?is ,r5nes %eet+2 8p> l9?iam9um de ,raynys pro sepul*ro40#bfc #bfa ,oliv]1 p4 #cad4 #bfb ,te/4 ,vet4 i4 #bbg4 #bfc ,oliv]1 p4 #cdj4 ,cologne1 ! que5 ( ! ,rh9e1 became fam\s dur+ ! :ole ( ! fifte5? & "p ( ! sixte5? c5tury = a c]ta9 k9d ( ecclesia/ical textile :i*1 f ! v g5]al use to :i* x has be5 appli$1 we h nam$ 8orphrey web40 ,s9ce by f> ! great] "p ( ?is collection1 z x n[ exi/s1 _h be5 made 9 ,g]many1 beg9n+ ) ,cologne1 x is1 z might be expect$1 well suppli$ ) specim5s ( a sort ( /uff1 if n peculi>1 at lea/ ab\nd+ 9 t c\ntry4 ,^? same liturgical ornam5ts :i* ,v5ice & ,flor5ce wove ) su* arti/ic ta/e = ,italian *ur* use1 ,cologne succe$$ 9 do+ = ,g]many4 ,h] productions1 h[ev]1 are e way f> bel[ 9 beauty ,italy's l works4 ,! ,italian orphrey-webs are g5]ally done 9 gold or yell[ silk1 ^u a crimson gr\nd ( silk4 ,flor5ce's are (t5 di/+ui%$ f ^? ( ,v5ice by ! introduction ( :ite = ! faces2 ,cologne's v>y f bo? by introduc+ blue1 :ile ! mat]ial is almo/ always v poor1 & ! weav+ co>se4 ,! e>lie/ specim5 "h ( ?is ,cologne orphrey-web is ,no4 #hbgi1 p4 #agd2 b x is f> surpass$ by _m o!rs1 su* z are1 = in/ance1 to be f\nd at pp4 #fa1 #fb1 #fc1 #fd1 #fi1 #hj1 #hb1 #aaf1 #aag1 #aah1 #aai1 #agd1 #age1 #beb1 #bec4 ,among ^! "s h noticeable peculi>ities2 ,no4 #acbi1 p4 #fa1 a good specim51 has ! p]sons ( ! sa9ts s wov5 t ! heads1 h&s1 & emblems are wr\ght ) ! ne$le2 ! same1 too1 9 ,nos4 #gjbc1 p4 #aah1 & #hffg1 p4 #beb2 9 ,no4 #acgc1 ?\gh ! gold5 gr\nd looks v fre% & brilliant1 ! gild+ process1 z on wood1 has be5 employ$4 ,"h 9 ,engl& ?is orphrey web 0 9 *ur* use & call$ 8rebayn de ,colayn40#bfd ,! piece ( ,g]man nap]y at ,no4 #hcag1 p4 #aij1 ( ! beg9n+ ( ! fifte5? c5tury w be to ^? curi\s ab\t h\sehold l951 an acceptable specim54 ,if by haz>d :ile read+ "s old inv5tory ( *ur* ve/m5ts ! read] %\ld /umble ^u "s entry m5tion+ a *asuble made ( clo? ( ,cologne1 let him und]/& x to mean n a c]ta9 broad textile wov5 !re1 b m]ely a ve/m5t compos$ ( sev]al pieces ( ?is k9d ( web sew$ toge!r1 j z 0 ! frontal made out ( pieces ( wov5 ,v5ice orphreys at ,no4 #higf1 p4 #bga4 #bfd ,te/am5ta ,eborac1 iii4 #ac4 ,! c\ntries :5ce silks came to u are num]\s2 ) confid5ce1 h[ev]1 we may say1 t till ! middle ( ! fifte5? c5tury1 :5 we began to weave "s ( !m = ourselves1 ! :ole geography ( silk5 textiles lay )9 ! bas9 ( ! ,m$it]ranean to ! we/1 & ! cont95t ( ,asia to ! ea/4 ,?\gh m5tion is (t5 made ( tissues com+ f v>i\s places1 ^? cities are always to be f\nd ^u ! map we h j m>k$ out4 ,among ^? spok5 ( ,antio*1 ,t>sus1 ,alex&ria1 ,damascus1 ,byzantium1 ,cyprus1 ,trip or ,tripoli1 & ,bagdad1 are easily recogniz$1 z well z ! lat] c5tres ( trade & manufacture1 ,v5ice1 ,g5oa & ,lucca4 ,to fix ! localities ( a few o!rs w\ld be b guess-"w4 ,at ! beg9n+ ( ! f\rte5? c5tury is m5tion$ occasionally a silk call$ 8,acca10 &1 f ! description ( x1 x mu/ h be5 a clo? ( gold %ot ) col\r$ silk1 figur$ ) animals3 ,william de ,cl9ton1 ,e>l ( ,hunt+don1 gave to ,/4 ,alban's mona/]y a :ole ve/m5t ( clo? ( gold %ot ) sky-blue1 & call$ clo? ( ,acca2 8unum ve/im5tum 444 de panno quem ,accam dicimus2 cujus campus e/ a]ius4 ,9 reliquis v]o p>tibus resultat auri fulgor40#bfe ,to "s x w\ld look z if ?is /uff took its "n f hav+ be5 br\ght to u ?r\gh ! port ( ,acre4 ,we lean t[>ds ?is belief on f9d+1 on ! au?ority ( ,macri1 9 8 valuable ,hi]olexicon1 ,v5ice1 #agce1 pp4 #e1 #edb1 t s us$ to be writt5 ! "n ( ! anci5t ,ptolemais 9 ,syria4 ,:at 9 "o age1 & at a p>ticul> place1 happ5$ to be s well made1 & h5ce became s eag]ly s\ght =1 at a lat] p]iod1 & 9 ano!r place1 got to be mu* bett] wr\ght & at a l[] price4 ,"t1 inde$1 *ang$ ! "n ( ! m>ket1 b did n alt] 9 any great degree ei!r ! quality ( ! mat]ial1 or ! /yle ( ! design wr\ght ^u x4 ,all ov] ! k+dom ( ! ,byzant9e ,greeks ! loom _h to *ange its ge>+ v little4 ,! ,s>ac5ic loom1 :e!r 9 ,asia1 ,africa1 or ,spa91 0 always ,arabic1 ?\gh ,p]sia c\ld n =get h] old5 ,zoroa/]ian traditions ab\t ! 8hom0 or tree ( life sep>at+ lions1 & hav+ all ab\t lion-hunt+ *eetahs1 & birds ( v>i\s sorts4 ,) reg>d to ! :ole ( ,asia1 we le>n t its _m peoples1 f ! e>lie/ times1 knew h[ n only to weave clo? ( gold1 b figure x too ) birds & bea/s4 ,almo/ two ?\s& ye>s aft]w>ds1 ,m>co ,polo1 9 ! ?irte5? c5tury1 f\nd exactly ! v same k9ds ( textile kn[n 9 ! days ( ,d>ius /ill ev]y:]e1 f ! %ores ( ! ,m$it]ranean to f> ,ca?ay1 9 dem& & wov54 ,:at he says ( ,bagdad1 he repeats 9 few] words ab\t _m o!r cities4#bff ,9 f9d+ _! way to ,engl& ^! fabrics _h giv5 !m n s (t5 ! names ( ! places :]e !y _h be5 wr\ght1 b1 if n 9 all1 at lea/ 9 mo/ in/ances1 ! names ( ! seaports 9 ! ,m$it]ranean :]e !y _h be5 %ipp$4 #bfe ,mon4 ,anglic4 ii4 #bba4 #bff ,i ,viaggi di ,m>co ,polo1 ed4 ,a4 ,b>toli1 ,fir5ze1 #ahfc4 ,= beautifully wr\ght & figur$ silk1 ( ! few t]ms t /ill outlive ! m$ival p]iod1 "o is ,damask4 ,*9a1 no d\bt1 0 ! fir/ c\ntry to ornam5t its silk5 webs ) a patt]n4 ,india1 ,p]sia & ,syria1 !n ,byzant9e ,greece1 foll[$1 b at long int]vals betwe51 9 ,*9a's foot/eps4 ,/uffs s figur$ br\ght ) !m to ! we/ ! "n 8diaspron0 or diap]1 be/[$ ^u !m at ,con/ant9ople4 ,b ab\t ! twelf? c5tury1 s v f> did ! city ( ,damascus1 ev5 !n long celebrat$ = its looms1 out/rip all o!r places = beauty ( design1 t h] silk5 textiles 7 eag]ly s\ght = ev]y:]e1 & ?us1 z (t5 happ5s1 trad]s fa/5$ ! "n ( ,damasc5 or ,damask ^u e silk5 fabric ri*ly wr\ght & curi\sly design$1 no matt] :e!r x came or n f ,damascus4 ,aft] hav+ be5 = ages ! epi!t betok5+ all t 0 ri* & good 9 silk1 8,samit0 _h to be =gott51 & ,diap]1 f be+ ! v ^w significant ( patt]n1 became a second>y t]m descriptive ( m]ely a "p 9 ! elaborate design on ,damask4 ,baudek91 t sort ( co/ly clo? ( gold spok5 ( s mu* dur+ s _m ye>s 9 ,engli% lit]ature1 took1 z we said be=e1 its fam\s "n f ,bagdad4 ,_m are ! specim5s 9 ?is collection furni%+ pro(s ( ! anci5t weav]s' dext]ity 9 _! managem5t ( ! loom1 b especially ( ! arti/s' ta/e 9 sett+ out s _m ( _! intricate & beautiful designs4 ,:at to "s w be happily curi\s is t we h ?is v day be=e our eyes pieces1 9 all likelihood1 f ! self-same web :i* furni%$ ! mat]ial1 c5turies ago1 = ve/m5ts & ornam5ts us$ ( old 9 ! ca!drals ( ,engl&4 ,let any "o turn to p4 #abb1 &1 aft] look+ at numb] #gjcf1 comp>e t silk ) ?is item 9 ! inv5tory ( ,/4 ,paul's1 ,london1 ,a4,d4 #abbe3 8,item1 ,baudekynus rubeus cum ,sampsone con/r+5te ora leonum10 c4#bfg ,see also numb] #hehi1 & numb] #hbce4 ,an id5tification betwe5 v _m samples1 br\ght toge!r "h1 ( anci5t textiles 9 silk1 & ! descriptions ( su* /uffs af=d$ u 9 ^? valuable records--our old *ur* inv5tories--might be c>ri$ on1 if necess>y1 to a v l5g!n$ ext5t4 #bfg ,dugdale's ,/4 ,paul's1 p4 #cbh4 ,dorneck 0 ! "n giv5 to an inf]ior k9d ( damask wr\ght ( silk1 wool1 l95 ?read & gold1 9 ,fl&]s4 ,t[>ds ! end ( ! fifte5? c5tury1 mo/ly at ,t\rnay1 :i* city1 9 ,flemi%1 0 (t5 call$ ,dorneck--a ^w v>i\sly spelt z ,d>nec1 ,d>nak1 ,d>nick1 & sometimes ev5 ,d>ness4 ,! gild ( ! ,bless$ ,virg9 ,m>y at ,bo/on _h a c>e clo? ( silke dornex & *ur* furniture4#bfh ,! 8c>e clo?0 0 a sort ( canopy held ov] ! bride & bridegroom z !y knelt = ! nuptial bless+1 accord+ to ! ,salisbury rite1 at ! m>riage mass4 ,at ,exet] x 0 us$ 9 *asubles = orphreys4#bfi ,a specim5 ( ,dornex may be se51 ,no4 #gjeh1 p4 #abi4 ,see also ,york ,fabric ,rolls1 pp4 #bia1 #big1 #bih1 #cjj1 #cje4 #bfh ,peacock1 p4 #bjd4 #bfi ,oliv]1 pp4 #cei1 #cfe4 ,buckram1 a cotton textile1 has a hi/ory & a reputation some:at v>i$4 ,9 our olde/ inv5tories m5tion is (t5 made ( a 8panus ,t>t>icus0 or ,t>t>y clo?1 :i* 01 if n always1 at lea/ (t5 purple4 ,asia1 especially 9 its ea/]n bord]s1 became fam\s = ! f9e textiles x wove out ( cotton1 & dy$ 9 e col\r4 ,cities got = !mselves a reputation = "s especial excell5ce 9 _! looms1 & z ,mosul _h ! "n ( ,musl9 f t place giv5 to ! f9e & delicate cotton webs x wr\ght1 s ! t]m ( buckram = ano!r sort ( cotton textile came f ! city ( ,bokh>a 9 ,t>t>y :]e ?is clo? 0 made4 ,all along ! middle ages buckram 0 mu* e/eem$ = be+ co/ly & v f9e1 & consequ5tly fit = use 9 *ur* ve/m5ts1 & = secul> p]sonal we>4 ,john ,gr&ison1 consecrat$ bi%op ( ,exet]1 ,a4,d4 #acbg1 gave to 8 ca!dral flags ( :ite & r$ buckram2#bgj & among ! five v ri* veils = cov]+ ! moveable lect]n 9 t *ur*1 ?ree 7 l9$ ) blue 8bok]am40#bga ,z late z ! beg9n+ ( ! sixte5? c5tury ?is /uff 0 held good en\gh = l9+ to a black velvet g[n = a que51 ,elizabe? ( ,york4#bgb ,! co>se ?ick fabric :i* n[ goes by ! "n 0 any?+ b ! old5 production kn[n z 8bok]am40 #bgj ,ib4 p4 #cai4 #bga ,ib4 p4 #cbi4 #bgb ,h] ,privy ,purse ,exp5ses1 ed4 ,nicolas1 p4 #bb1 c4 ,burdalisaund]1 ,bordalisaund]1 ,b\rde de ,elis&re1 ) o!r v>ieties 9 spell+1 is a t]m (t5 to be met ) 9 old wills & *ur* inv5tories4 ,9 ! ye> #acbg ,exet] _h a *asuble ( ,b\rde de ,elis&re ( div]s col\rs4#bgc ,x 0 wide en\gh = half a piece to =m ! adornm5t ( a high alt>4#bgd ,! difficulty ( und]/&+ :at ?is textile 0 w vani% :5 we rememb] t 9 ,arabic 8bord0 to ?is day means a /rip$ clo?2 & we "k1 bo? f travell]s & ! importation ( ! textile itself1 t _m tribes 9 ,nor? & ,ea/]n ,africa weave /uffs = p]sonal we> ( a patt]n consi/+ ( :ite & black longitud9al /ripes4 ,/4 ,augu/9 too1 liv+ 9 ,nor? ,africa ne> ! mod]n ,algi]s1 speaks ( a /uff = clo?+ call$ 8burda10 9 ! end ( ! f\r? & beg9n+ ( ! fif? c5tury4 ,burdalisaund] 0 a silk5 web 9 diff]5t col\r$ /ripes1 & specim5s ( ?is1 at "o "t kn[n z 8/ragulata0 may be f\nd "h at pp4 #ba1 #bg1 #cc1 #ef1 #eg1 #afa1 #bbe1 #bbf1 c4 ,?\gh made 9 s _m places r\nd ! ,m$it]ranean1 ?is silk took its "n1 at lea/ 9 ,engl&1 f ,alex&ria1 because x 0 to be _h 9 t ,egyptian city1 always celebrat$ = its silks1 ei!r bett] made or at a mu* l[] price ?an else:]e4 ,9 all likelihood ! curta9s = ! tab]nacle1 z well z ! girdles = ,a>on & 8 sons1 ( f9e l95 & violet & purple1 & sc>let twice dy$1 7 wr\ght ) ?is v patt]n1 s t 9 ! 8/ragulata0 or 8burd ,aliscaund]0 we behold ! olde/ kn[n design = any textile4 #bgc ,oliv]1 p4 #cab4 #bgd ,york%ire ,wills4 ,"p i4 p4 #agd4 ,fu/ian1 ( :i* two ( its =ms we /ill h 9 velvete5 & corduroy1 0 orig9ally wove at ,fu/at1 on ! ,nile1 ) a w>p ( l95 ?read & a wo( ( ?ick cotton1 :i* 0 s twill$ & cut t x %[$ on "o side a ?ick b l[ pile2 & ! web s manag$ took its "n ( ,fu/ian f t ,egyptian city4 ,at :at p]iod x 0 inv5t$ we d n rightly "k1 b we are well aw>e x mu/ h be5 br\ght to ?is c\ntry be=e ! ,normans com+ hi!r1 = our ,anglo-,saxon c\ntryman1 ,/4 ,/eph5 ,h>d+1 :5 a ,ci/]cian abbot & an old man1 circ4 ,a4,d4 #aaad1 =bade *asubles 9 8 *ur* to be made ( any?+ b fu/ian or pla9 l953 8neque casulas nisi de fu/aneo vel l9o s9e pallio aureo vel arg5teo10 c4#bge ,! au/]ity ( 8 rule rea*$ ev5 ! ornam5t ( ! *ur*4 ,f su* a prohibition we are n to draw z a conclusion t fu/ian 0 at ! "t a mean mat]ial2 q ! contr>y1 x 0 a seemly textile4 ,ye>s aft]w>ds1 9 ! f\rte5? c5tury1 ,*auc] tells u ( 8 knight3-- ,( fu/ian he w]$ a gepon4#bgf ,fu/ian1 s ne> ak9 to velvet1 is m especially notic$ along ) :at is said ^u t f9e textile4 ,9 ! fifte5? c5tury ,naples _h a repute = weav+ fu/ians1 b our ,engli% *ur*w>d5s1 n be+ le>n$ 9 geography1 made "s laughable bad spell+ ( ?is1 l "s o!r cont95tal /uffs3 8,fus*an 9 appules10 = fu/ian f ,naples1 is droll2 yet droll] /ill is 8mu/yrd devells10 = a clo? made 9 ,france at a t[n call$ ,mu/revilli]s4 #bge ,mon4 ,anglic4 ed4 ,dugdale1 v4 #bbe4 #bgf ,! ,prologue1 ,poems1 ed4 ,nicolas1 ii4 #c4 ,musl91 z x is n[ ?r\gh\t ! _w1 s f ! e>lie/ antiquity has be5 ev]y:]e 9 ,asia 9 fav\rite use1 bo? z an article ( dress & z furniture4 ,its cl\d-l ?9ness1 its lightness1 71 z !y /ill are to "s ,asiatics1 n ! only *>ms belong+ to ?is /uff3 x 0 e/eem$ equally z mu* = ! ta/e 9 :i* /ripes ( gold _h be5 wov5 9 its w>p4 ,z we le>n f ! travels ( ,m>co ,polo1 ! fur!r all wayf>]s 9 ,asia w&]$ among its ea/]n nations1 ! high] !y f\nd ! po9t ( excell5ce :i* _h be5 rea*$ by ^? p 9 weav+ silk & gold into spl5did fabrics4 ,if ! silkworm liv$1 nay1 ?riv$ !re1 ! cotton plant 0 9 its home1 its bir?-place1 9 ^? regions4 ,:]e /ood ,n9eveh ,mosul /&s n[4 ,l _m cities ( ,middle ,asia1 ,mosul _h e>n$ = itself a reputation ( old = ! beauty ( its gold-wr\ght silk5 textiles4 ,cotton grew all ar\nd 9 pl5ty2 ! inhabitants1 especially ! wom51 be+ gift$ ) su* quick feel+ ( f+]1 c\ld sp9 ?read f ?is cotton ( m ?an hair-l f95ess4 ,cotton !n took ) !m1 on _m occasions1 ! place ( silk 9 ! loom2 b gold 0 n =gott5 9 ! texture4 ,?is new fabric1 n only because x 0 s mu* *eap]1 b f its own peculi> beauty & comel9ess1 won = itself a high place 9 common e/imation4 ,at once1 & by ! _w's accord1 on x 0 be/[$ z its di/9ctive "n1 ! "n ( ! place :]e x 0 wr\ght 9 su* p]fection4 ,h5ce1 :e!r wove ) or )\t gold1 we call to ?is day ?is cotton web ,musl91 f ! ,asiatic city ( ,mosul4 ,clo? ( ,are/e is ano!r ( ^? t]ms = wov5 /uffs :i* /ud5ts ( textiles _h nev] he>d ( 7 x n to be f\nd 9 our old ,engli% de$s & inv5tories4 ,! fir/ "t we meet x is 9 an ord] giv51 ,a4,d4 #abdd1 by ,h5ry ,,iii4 = f9d+ two ( ^! clo?s ( ,are/e ) :i* two copes _h to be made = royal *apels3 8,duos pannos del ,are/e ad duas capas faci5das10 c4#bgg ,aga9 x comes a few ye>s lat] at ,/4 ,paul's1 :i* ca!dral1 ,a4,d4 #abie1 _h1 besides a dalmatic & tunicle ( ?is silk--8de s]ico albo diasp]ato de ,are/10#bgh--;z _m z ?irty & m hang+s ( ?is same texture4#bgi ,f ! description ( ^! pieces we ga!r t ?is s-call$ clo? ( ,are/e mu/ h be5 z beautiful z x 0 ri*1 be+ = ! mo/ "p clo? ( gold figur$ elaborately1 "s ) lions & d\ble-head$ eagles1 o!rs1 = example1 ) ! dea? & burial ( our ,"l--8campus aureus cum leonibus et aquilis bicapitibus de aurifilo contextis--campus rubeus cum hi/oria ,passionis ,dom9i et sepultur ejusdem40 ,^! designs speak ( ! looms at "w 9 ! middle ages on ! ea/]n %ore ( ! ,m$it]ranean1 & we are mu* /r5g!n$ 9 ?is ?\ght by behold+ h[ ! dea? & burial ( our ,"l1 l ! sample "h1 numb] #hbgh1 p4 #agj-a1 are %[n on a crimson gr\nd1 z we %all h to in/ance fur!r on "u ,symbolism1 ,,vii4 ,t ?is sort ( /uff1 wove ( silk & gold1 0 ( any k9d ( ,arras1 or made 9 t t[n1 to our seem+ is a v unhappy guess4 ,arras _h n won = itself a reputation = its tape/ry be=e ! f\rte5? c5tury4 ,tape/ry itself is too ?ick & heavy = use 9 ve/m5ts2 yet ?is clo? ( ,are/e 0 light en\gh = tunicles1 & :5 worn out 0 sometimes condemn$ at ,/4 ,paul's to be put aside = l9+ o!r ritual g>m5ts--8ad armaturam faci5dam40#bhj ,! t]m 8,are/e0 has little or no?+ 9 x common to ! ^w 8,arras10 z writt5 ei!r 9 ,fr5*1 or "u its ,lat9 appellation 8,atrebatum40 ,among ! ?ree mean+s = ! m$ival 8,are/a10 "o is1 any k9d ( cov]+4 ,to u1 !n1 x seems z if ^! clo?s ( ,are/e took _! "n n f ! place :]eat !y _h be5 wove1 b f ! use to :i*1 if n always1 = ! mo/ "p1 we put !m--t ( hang+s ab\t our *ur*es1 s9ce 9 ! ,/4 ,paul's inv5tory !y are usually spok5 ( z su*--8culcitr p5dules1 panni p5duli40#bha ,moreov]1 tape/ry1 or ,arras "w1 be+ ?ick & heavy1 c\ld nev] h be5 employ$ = su* light use z t ( app>els1 nor w\ld x h be5 diap]$ l silk1 yet we f9d x to h be5 s fa%ion$ & s us$--8manicul>iis app>atis quodam panno rubeo diasp]ato de ,l>et1 c40#bhb #bgg ,exc]pta ,hi/orica1 p4 #djd4 #bgh ,/4 ,paul's ,ca!dral1 ed4 ,dugdale1 p4 #cbb4 #bgi ,ibid4 p4 #cbi4 #bhj ,/4 ,paul's ,ca!dral1 ed4 ,dugdale1 p4 #cbi4 #bha ,ibid4 p4 #cbi4 #bhb ,ibid4 p4 #cce4 ,= n a few x w\ld be h>d to und]/& "s at lea/ among ^? epi!ts meant 9 by-gone days to tell h[ ,,silks ,,7 ,,di/+ui%$ ,,?r\gh ,,_! ,,col\rs ,,& ,,%ades ,,( ,,col\r4 ,to ! inv5tories ( ve/m5ts & *ur*-/uffs ( all sorts mu/ we g to ga!r ! in=mation :i* we want ab\t ! textiles 9 use 9 ?is c\ntry at any p>ticul> p]iod dur+ by-gone days4 ,! m5 :o _h1 9 ! ?irte5? c5tury1 ! draw+ up ( su* li/s1 seem to h be5 gift$ ) a ke5 eye = ! v>ieties ( %ade & t9ts 9 ! col\r ( silks !n be=e !m4 ,= in/ance1 a *asuble at ,/4 ,paul's1 ,london1 ,a4,d4 #abie1 is set d[n ?us3--8,de sameto purpureo aliquantulum sangu9eo0--t is1 made ( samit 7a ?ick silk7 dy$ 9 a purple some:at bord]+ on a blood-r$ tone4 ,su* language is unmi/akable2 n s1 h[ev]1 _m o!r t]ms at ! "t 9 common use1 & ?\gh well und]/ood !n1 are n[ n s intelligible4 ,we are told 9 ! same inv5tory#bhc sev]al times ( a 8pannus ,t>sicus10 a ,t>sus clo?1 & ( a 8pannus ,t>sici coloris10 a ,t>sus col\r$ clo?4 ,:at may h be5 ! di/9ctive qualities ( ! /uffs wov5 at ,t>sus1 :at ! peculi> beauty 9 t t9t to :i* t once s celebrat$ city _h giv5 its own "n1 we _c say4 ,we ?9k1 h[ev]1 ^? ,t>sus textiles 7 p>tly ( silk1 p>tly ( f9e goats' hair1 & = ?is reason ,v>ro tells#bhd--8,tond5tur 7capr7 quod magnis villis sunt1 9 magna p>te ,phrygi2 unde ,cilicia1 et ct]a ejus g5]is f]ri sol5t4 ,s$1 quod primum ea tonsura 9 ,cilicia sit in/ituta1 nom5 id ,cilicas adjecisse dicunt40 ,goats are %orn 9 a great "p ( ,phrygia1 because !re !y h long %aggy hair4 ,cilicia 7! ,lat9 = hair clo?s7 & o!r ?+s ( ! same sort1 are usually br\ght f t c\ntry4 ,= ! reason t 9 ,cilicia su* a %e>+ ( goats arose1 !y say t ! "n ( ,cilician 0 giv5 to su* /uffs wov5 ( goats' hair4 ,z ,t>sus is1 s always 0 x1 ! head city 9 all t "p ( ,asia ,m9or kn[n ( old z ,phrygia4 ,h5ce !n we ?9k t-- #bhc ,pp4 #cbb1 #cbc4 #bhd ,de ,re ,ru/ica1 lii4 cap4 xi4 ,clo? ( ,t>sus1 ( ,t>s1 c41 0 wov5 ( f9e goats' hair & silk4 ,b ?is web 0 9 sev]al col\rs1 & always look$ ^u z v co/ly4 ,! ,t>sus col\r itself 01 z we take x1 "s %ade ( purple diff]+ f1 & p]haps to "s eyes m beautiful ?an1 ! ,tyrian dye4 ,! p ( ,t>sus no d\bt got f _! murex1 a %ell-fi% ( ! class mollusca & purpurif]a family to be f\nd on _! coa/1 _! dye+ matt]2 & :5 x is borne 9 m9d :at *anges are wr\ght 9 ! animal itself by ! food x eats1 & :at /rong effects are made by slight v>iations 9 climate1 ev5 atmosph]e1 ^u mat]ials = col\r+ 9 ! mom5ts ( application1 we may easily und]/& h[ ! diff]5ce arose betwe5 ! two t9ts ( purple4 ,we are /r5g!n$ 9 our conjecture t n only 0 ! clo? ( ,t>sus ( a r>e & co/ly k9d1 b its t9t "s %ade ( royal purple1 f ! fact t :ile notic+ ! robes worn on a gr& public occasion by a k+1 ,*auc] ?us sket*es ! pr9ce3-- ,! gret ,emetrius1 ! k+ ( ,inde1 ,^u a /$e bay1 trapp$ 9 /ele1 ,cov]$ ) clo? ( gold diapr$ wele1 ,came rid+ l ! god ( armes ,m>s4 ,8 cote armure 0 ( a clo? ( ,t>s1 ,c\*$ ) p]les1 c4#bhe #bhe ,knightes ,tale1 ,poems1 ed4 ,nicolas1 ii4 #fd-e4 ,sky-blue 0 a liturgical col\r ev]y:]e 9 use = c]ta9 fe/ivals ?r\gh\t ,engl&1 z we h %[n 9 ano!r place4#bhf ,9 ! e>ly inv5tories ! "n = t t9t is 8,indicus10 8,indus10 rem9d+ u ( our pres5t indigo4 ,9 lat] li/s x is call$ 8,blodius10 n sangu9>y1 b blue4 #bhf ,*ur* ( our ,fa!rs1 t4 ii4 p4 #bei4 ,murrey1 or a r$di% br[n1 is (t5 specifi$2 & a good specim5 ( ! t9t is giv5 u1 ,no4 #gji1 p4 #i4 ,old ,/4 ,paul's1 ,london1 _h sev]al pieces ( baudek9 ( ?is col\r3 8baudekynus murretus cum griffonibus datus pro anima4 ,alphonsi filii regis ,e40#bhg ,go+ f> d[n1 & mu* bel[ ! middle ages1 ,purple1 9 all its tones1 & t9ts1 & %ades1 0 spok5 ( & look$ ^u z all[able to be worn 9 g>m5ts only to wor%ipful1 ennobl$1 or royal p]sonages4 ,:e!r x gl[$ ) ! brightness x seem$ to h /ol5 f ! rose1 or wore its d>ke/ tone x c\ld borr[ f ! violet1 :e!r x put on any "o ( ^? hundr$ %ades to be f\nd betwe5 ^? two extremes1 x matt]$ n2 x 0 gaz$ at ) an admir+1 a respectful eye4 ,eag]ly s\ght out1 & b\ght at high price1 7 ^? textiles t %[$ ?is col\r1 & _h be5 dy$ at ,tyre1 ,antio*1 ,t>sus1 ,alex&ria1 ,byzantium1 or ,naples4 ,all ^! places 7 at "o "t or ano!r1 9 days ( old1 fam\s = _! looms1 no less ?an _! ability 9 ! dye+1 especially ( purple1 among ! nations liv+ on ! %ores ( ! ,m$it]ranean2 & ea* ( !m _h 9 its own tone a %ade :i* di/+ui%$ x f t ( all ! o!rs4 ,:at ! t9t ( purple 0 :i* e/abli%$ ?is diff]5ce we _c at ?is di/ance ( "t1 & ) our means ( kn[+1 ju/ly say4 ,( ?is1 h[ev]1 we are p]fectly aw>e1 t silks ( purple usually bore _! specific "n f ^? above-nam$ cities1 z we p]ceive :ile read+ ! old inv5tories ( our *ur*es & ca!drals4 ,moreov]1 our native writ]s let u "k t1 if n always f ,greece1 x 0 ?r\gh t c\ntry t purple textiles 7 br\ght to ,engl&4 ,besides speak+ ( a conv]sation held ab\t1 beside o!r ?+s1 ! produce ( ,greece 9 purple silks--8,grcorum purpuris1 et pannis holos]icis0--,g]ald ,b>ry gives u to und]/& t 9 8 days n only 7 our *ur*es sumptu\sly hung ) co/ly palls & purple silks1 b t ^! textiles 7 ! "w ( ,grecian looms--8rex 7,willielmus ,rufus7 ecclesiam qu&am 79 nova =e/a7 intr>et quam adeo pul*ram et dec5tius ornatam auletis hi/oricis1 et pretiosis ,grcorum palliis1 pannis holos]icis et purpureis undique ve/itam10 c4#bhh ,silks wov5 ( two col\rs1 s t "o ( !m %[$ itself unmix$ & q di/9ct on "o side1 & ! second appe>$ equally clean on ! o!r--a ?+ sometimes n[ look$ ^u z a wond] 9 mod]n weav+--might occasionally be met ) "h at ! m$ival p]iod3 ,exet] ,ca!dral _h1 ,a4,d4 #acbg3--8,unus pannus s]icus curtus rubei coloris int]ius et crocei coloris ext]ius40#bhi #bhg ,/4 ,paul's1 ed4 ,dugdale1 p4 #cbh1 c4 #bhh ,giraldus ,cambr5sis1 ,de ,in/ructione ,pr9cipum1 pp4 #afh-agc4 #bhi ,oliv]1 p4 #caf4 ,%ot1 or1 z !y 7 !n call$1 *angeable silks1 7 fa%ionable 9 ,engl& dur+ ! sixte5? c5tury1 = :5 ! ,k+'s 7,edw>d ,,vi47 ,"l ( ,misrule rode =? ) great pageantry1 among o!r p]sonages !re came 8a= xx4 ( ys consell on horsbake 9 g[nes ( *anabulle lynyd ) blue taffata & capes ( ! sam1 l sage 7m572 !n cam my "l ) a g[ne ( gold furyd10 c4#bij ,at ,york ,ca!dral1 ,a4,d4 #aedc1 !re 0 8a ve/m5t ( *angeable silke10#bia 8besides "o ( *angeable taffety = ,good ,friday40#bib #bij ,di>y ( ,h5ry ,ma*yn1 ed4 ,ni*ols = ! ,camd5 ,society1 p4 #ac4 #bia ,fabric ,rolls1 p4 #cja4 #bib ,ibid4 p4 #caa4 ,m>ble silk _h a weft ( sev]al col\rs s put toge!r & wov5 z to make ! :ole web look l m>ble1 /a9$ ) a v>iety ( t9ts2 h5ce x got its "n4 ,9 ! ye> #abie ,/4 ,paul's _h 8p>uram de s]ico m>moreo0#bic--;an app>el ( m>ble silk2 8tunica de quodam panno m>moreo spisso0#g--;a tunicle ( a c]ta9 ?ick m>ble clo?2 8tunica de diaspro m>moreo spisso0#bid--;a tunicle ( ?ick diap] m>ble2 8casula m>morei coloris0#bie--;a *asuble ( m>ble col\r4 ,dur+ full ?ree c5turies ?is m>ble silk f\nd great fav\r among u s9ce ,h4 ,ma*yn1 9 8 v valuable & curi\s ,di>y tells 8 read]s h[ 8! old ,qwyne ( ,s*ottes rod ?rught ,london10 & h[ 8!n cam ! ,"l ,tresor] ) a ,c4 gret horsse & !r cotes ( m>bull10#i c41 to meet h] ! #f? ( ,novemb]1 ,a4,d4 #aeea4bif #bic ,ibid4 p4 #cbj4 #bid ,ibid4 p4 #cbb4 #bie ,ibid4 p4 #cbc4 #bif ,pp4 #aa1 #ab4 ,,section ,,ii4--,,embroid]y4 ,! art ( work+ ) ! ne$le fl[]s1 fruits1 human & animal =ms1 or any fanciful design1 ^u webs wov5 ( silk1 l951 cotton1 wool1 hemp1 besides o!r k9ds ( /uff1 is s old t x rea*es f> into ! prehi/oric ages4 ,^? patt]ns1 aft] s _m fa%ions1 :i* we see figur$ ^u ! g>m5ts worn by m5 & wom5 9 ,egyptian & ,assyrian monum5ts1 b especially on ! burn$-clay vases made & pa9t$ by ! ,greeks dur+ _! mo/ ar*aic z well z lat] times1 or we read ab\t 9 ! writ+s ( t p1 7 n wr\ght 9 ! loom1 b done by ! ne$le4 ,! old ,egyptian loom--& t ( ! ,jews mu/ h be5 l x--01 z we "k f pa9t+s1 ( ! simple/ %ape1 & seems to h nev] be5 able to d any?+ m div]sifi$ 9 ! designs ( its patt]ns ?an /raight l9es 9 diff]5t col\rs1 & at be/ no?+ high] 9 execution ?an *eck]-"w3 beyond ?is1 all else 0 put 9 by h& ) ! ne$le4 ,9 ,p>is1 at ! ,l\vre1 are sev]al pieces ( e>ly ,egyptian webs col\r$1 draw+s ( :i* h be5 publi%$ by ,sir ,g>dn] ,wilk9son 9 8 %ort "w 8,! ,egyptians 9 ! "t ( ! ,ph>aohs40#big ,!re are two pieces ( ! same textile sc>let1 ) "o br$e wov5 ( n>r[ r$ /ripes on a broad yell[ /ripe1 ! o!r bord] be+ a broad yell[ /ripe edg$ by a n>r[ sc>let "o1 bo? wr\ght up & d[n ) ne$lework2 ! second piece ( blue is figur$ all ov] 9 :ite embroid]y ) a patt]n ( nett+1 ! me%es ( :i* %ut 9 irregul> cubic %apes1 & 9 ! l9es ( ! reticulation ! my/ic 8gammadion0 or 8fylfot0 is se54 ,( !m ,sir ,j4 ,g4 ,wilk9son says3--8,!y are mo/ly cotton1 &1 ?\gh _! date is unc]ta91 !y suffice to %[ t ! manufacture 0 ,egyptian2 & ! _m dresses pa9t$ on ! monum5ts ( ! eighte5? dyna/y %[ t ! mo/ v>i$ patt]ns 7 us$ by ! ,egyptians m ?an #cjjj ye>s ago1 z !y 7 at a lat] p]iod by ! ,babylonians1 :o became not$ = _! ne$lework40#bih ,o!r specim5s ( ,egyptian embroid]y 7 on ^? corslets s5t to ,grecian temples by ,amasis1 ab\t :i* we h be=e spok5 7p4 xiv47 #big ,p4 #db4 #bih ,ibid4 p4 #da4 ,t ! ,israelites embroid]$ _! g>m5ts1 especially ^? worn 9 public wor%ip1 is cle> f sev]al passages 9 ! ,book ( ,exodus4 ,! words 8embroid]y0 & 8embroid]$0 t come !re s frequ5tly 9 our ,engli% v]sions are n to be und]/ood always to mean ne$lework1 b on occasions ! ta/eful weav+ 9 /ripes ( ! gold1 violet1 & purple1 & sc>let twice dy$1 & f9e twi/$ l952 ! pomegranates at ! bottom ( ,a>on's tunic betwe5 ! gold5 bells1 & wr\ght ( f\r ( ^! /uffs1 71 x is likely1 made out ( su* col\r$ %r$s1 & ( t k9d :i* is n[ call$ cut-"w4 ,pick+ up f ,greek & ,lat9 writ]s only1 z 0 8 wont1 ^? scraps ( :i* 8 ,natural ,hi/ory is made1 ,pl9y tells u1 ev5 9 ,hom]1 m5tion is made ( embroid]$ clo?s1 :i* orig9at$ su* z by ! ,romans are call$ 8triumphal40 ,to d ?is ) ! ne$le 0 f\nd out by ! ,phrygians1 h5ce su* g>m5ts took ! "n ,phrygionic3 8,pictas ve/es jam apud ,hom]um fuisse unde triumphales nat4 ,acu fac]e id1 ,phryges inv5]unt ideoque ,phrygioni appellat sunt40#bii ,he might h add$ t ! only ^w ! ,romans _h to mean an embroid]] 0 8,phrygio10 :i* arose f ! same cause4 ,_m passages 9 ,virgil %[ t f ,we/]n ,asia ! ,romans le>n$ _! k ( embroid]y1 & borr[$ ! employm5t ( x on _! g>m5ts ( ,/ate2 besides1 8^? art-wr\ght ve/s ( spl5did purple t9t30--8arte laborat ve/es o/roque sup]bo10#cjj br\ght =? = ! fea/ by ! ,sidonian ,dido1 ! ,phrygian ,&roma*e be/[s ^u ,ascanius1 z a tok5 ( h] own h&icraft1 g>m5ts %ot ) gold & pictur$1 z well z a ,phrygian cloak1 along ) o!r wov5 /uffs-- ,f]t picturatas auri subtem9e ve/es1 ,et ,phrygiam ,ascanio *lamydem1 c4#cja & neas veils 8 head = pray] ) ! embroid]$ hem ( 8 raim5t-- ,et capita ante aras ,phrygio velamur amictu4#cjb #bii ,lib4 viii4 c4 #dg4 #cjj neid i4 #fdc4 #cja ,ibid4 iii4 #dhb4 #cjb ,ibid4 iii4 #ede4 ,9 ,lat9 :ile an embroid]] 0 call$ a ,phrygian1 8,phrygio10 ne$lework 0 d5om9at$ 8,phrygium10 or ,phrygian /uff2 h5ce1 :51 z (t5 happ5$1 ! design 0 wr\ght 9 solid gold wire or gold5 ?read1 ! embroid]y s work$ got nam$ 8auriphrygium40 ,f ?is t]m comes our own old ,engli% ^w 8orphrey40 ,?\gh de=m$ aft] s _m guises by ! witless writ]s ( _m an inv5tory ( *ur* goods1 or by ! sorry cl]ic :o 9 a mom5t ( ne$ful ha/e _h be5 call$ ^u to draw up a w2 o!r m51 h[ev] small _! le>n+1 always spell$ ! ^w 8orphrey10 9 ,engli%1 & 8auriphrygium10 9 ,lat94 ,9 ! ,exet] inv5tory1 giv5 by ,oliv]1 8cum orphrey de panno aureo1 c4 cum orphrais1 c40#cjc are f\nd2 & ! cope bequea!d by ,h5ry ,"l de ,scrope1 ,a4,d4 #adae1 _h its 8orphreis0 8embraudata nobilit] cum imag9ibus10 c4#cjd ,! _m beautiful orphreys on ! ,l9coln ve/m5ts are fully describ$ 9 ! 8,mona/icon ,anglicanum30#cje no "o c\ld be m e>ne/ 9 comm&+ ! use on ve/m5ts ( ! auriphrygium1 or embroid]$ 8orphrey0 ?an ,/4 ,*>les ,borromeo4#cjf ,:ile ,phrygia 9 g5]al1 ,babylon 9 p>ticul> became celebrat$ = ! beauty ( its embroid]ies3 8colores div]sos pictur intex]e ,babylon maxime celebravit et nom5 imposuit20#cjg & ^? :o h se5 ! sculptures 9 ! ,briti% ,museum br\ght f ,n9eveh1 & describ$ & figur$ by ,lay>d1 mu/ h witness$ h[ lavi%ly ! ,assyrians mu/ h adorn$ _! dress ) t sort ( ne$lework = :i* "o ( _! greate/ cities 0 s fam\s4 ,up to ! fir/ c5tury ( our era1 ! reputation :i* ,babylon _h won = h] textiles & ne$lework /ill liv$4 ,josephus1 himself a ,jew1 :o _h (t5 be5 to wor%ip at ,j]usalem1 tells u t ! veils ( its ,temple giv5 by ,h]od 7 ,babylonian1 & ( ! out] "o t writ] says3--8!re 0 a veil ( equal l>g5ess ) ! door4 ,x 0 a ,babylonian curta91 embroid]$ ) blue & f9e l951 & sc>let & purple1 & ( a texture t 0 wond]ful40#cjh #cjc ,pp4 #ccj1 #cce-ccf4 #cjd ,rym]'s ,fd]a1 t4 ix4 p4 #bgb4 #cje ,t4 viii4 pp4 #abij1 new edition4 #cjf ,*ur* ( our ,fa!rs1 t4 i4 p4 #dec4 #cjg ,pl9y1 lib4 viii4 c4 #dg4 #cjh ,w>s ( ! ,jews1 b4 v4 c4 #e2 ,works translat$ by ,we/on1 t4 #d1 p4 #aba4 ,:at ! ,jews did = ! ,temple we may be sure 0 done by ,*ri/ians = ! ,*ur*4 ,! fai?ful1 h[ev]1 w5t ev5 fur!r1 & wore g>m5ts figur$ all ov] ) passages f ,holy ,writ wr\ght 9 embroid]y4 ,f a /irr+ s]mon prea*$ by ,/4 ,a/]ius1 bi%op ( ,amasia 9 ,pontus1 9 ! f\r? c5tury1 we le>n ?is4 ,tak+ = 8 text1 8a c]ta9 ri* man :o 0 clo!d 9 purple & f9e l9510 ?is fa!r ( ! ,*ur*1 :ile upbraid+ ! _w = its follies 9 dress1 lets u "k t "s p w5t ab\t array$ l pa9t$ walls1 ) bea/s & fl[]s all ov] !m2 :ile o!rs1 pret5d+ a m s]i\s tone ( ?\ght1 dress$ 9 clo!s figur$ ) a sket* ( all ! do+s & wond]s ( our ,"l4 8,/rive10 ?und]s =? ,/4 ,a/]ius1 8to foll[ 9 y\r lives ! tea*+s ( ! ,gospel1 r ?an h ! miracles ( our ,r$eem] embroid]$ ^u y\r outw>d dress40#cji ,to h _h s _m subjects %[n ^u "o g>m5t1 x is cle> t ea* mu/ h be5 done v small1 & all wr\ght 9 outl9e2 a /yle :i* is be+ br\ght back1 ) great effect1 into ecclesia/ical use4 ,( ! embroid]y done by ,*ri/ian ladies abroad dur+ ! ,l[] ,roman ,empire1 we h already spok51 p4 xxxv4 ,com+ to our own l&1 & its m$ival times1 we f9d h[ at ! beg9n+ ( t p]iod our ,anglo-,saxon si/]s knew s well to h&le _! ne$le4 ,! _m pro(s ( ?is we h br\ght =w>d 9 ano!r place4#caj ,! discrim9at+ accuracy ) :i* our old writ]s s\ght to foll[ :ile not+ d[n ! sev]al k9ds ( textile gifts be/[$ ^u a *ur* is z in/ructive z praisewor?y4 ,+ulph did n ?9k x en\gh to say t abbot ,egelric _h giv5 _m hang+s to ! ,*ur* ( ,croyl&1 ! great numb] ( :i* 7 silk51 b he mu/ tell u1 too1 t "s 7 ornam5t$ ) birds wr\ght 9 gold1 & sew$ on--9 fact1 ( cut-"w--o!r "s ) ^? birds wov5 into ! /uff1 o!r "s q pla93--8,d$it etiam multa pallia susp5d5da 9 p>ietibus ad alt>ia sanctorum 9 fe/is1 quorum plurima de s]ico erant1 aureis volucribus qudam insita1 qudam intexta1 qudam plana40#caa ,s also ! c>e (t5 tak5 by ! writ]s ( inv5tories1 l him :o wrote out ! ,exet] "o1 to m5tion h[ "s ( ! ve/m5ts _h no?+ ab\t !m b true ne$lework1 or1 z !y at times express x1 8op]ata p] totum op]e acuali10 may be witness$ 9 t useful "w1 8,! ,lives ( ! ,bi%ops ( ,exet]10 by ,oliv]4#cab ,by ! latt] end ( ! ?irte5? c5tury embroid]y1 z well z its imitation1 got = its sev]al /yles & v>i\s sorts ( ornam5tation mix$ up ) x a di/+ui%+ & te*nical nom5clature2 & ! e>lie/ docum5t 9 :i* we meet ) ?is set ( t]ms is ! inv5tory drawn up1 ,a4,d4 #abie1 ( ! ve/m5ts belong+ to our ,london ,/4 ,paul's ,ca!dral3 h]e91 ! 8opus plum>ium10#cac ! 8opus pect9eum10#cad ! 8opus pulv9>ium10#cae cut-"w1 8consutum de s]ico10#caf 8de s]ico consuto10#cag may be sev]ally f\nd 9 ,dugdale's 8,hi/ory ( ,/4 ,paul's40 #cji ,ceilli]1 ,hi/4 ,g54 des ,auteurs ,sacrs et ,ecclesia/iques1 t4 viii4 p4 #dhh4 #caj ,! ,*ur* ( our ,fa!rs1 t4 ii4 p4 #bfg1 c4 c4 #caa ,+ulphi ,hi/4 ed4 ,savile1 p4 #eje1 b4 #cab ,pp4 #ccf1 #cdd1 c4 #cac ,p4 #cbj4 #cad ,p4 #caf4 #cae ,p4 #cai4 #caf ,p4 #cbj4 #cag ,p4 #cai4 ,! 8opus plum>ium0 0 ! !n usual g5]al t]m = :at is n[ commonly call$ embroid]y2 & h5ce1 9 "s old inv5tories1 we meet ) su* notices z ?is3--8cap op]e plum>io fact id e/1 brudat40 ,?is t]m 0 giv5 to embroid]y ne$lework because ! /it*es 7 laid d[n nev] across b longwise1 & s put toge!r t !y seem$ to ov]lap "o ano!r l ! fea!rs 9 ! plumage ( a bird4 ,n inaptly !n 0 ?is /yle call$ 8fea!r-/it*0 "w1 9 contradi/9ction to t done 9 cross & t5t /it*1 or ! 8cu%ion-/yle10 z we %all1 a little fur!r on1 h occasion to notice next4 ,among ! _m specim5s "h done 9 fea!r-/it*1 9 all ages1 we w\ld especially in/ance ,no4 #hd1 p4 #c4 ,! 8opus pulv9>ium10 or 8cu%ion /yle10 0 t sort ( embroid]y l ! pres5t s-call$ ,b]l9-"w4 ,z n[1 s !n x 0 done 9 ! same /it*]y1 ) pretty mu* ! same mat]ials1 & put if n always1 at lea/ (t51 to ! same purpose ( be+ us$ = cu%ions1 ^u :i* to sit or to kneel 9 *ur*1 or uphold ! mass-book at ! alt>2 h5ce its "n ( 8cu%ion-/yle40 ,9 work+ x1 silk5 ?read is kn[n to h be5 (t5 us$4 ,among o!r specim5s1 & 9 silk1 ! r>e & beautiful liturgical cu%ion ( a date correspond+ to ! ,london inv5tory1 is to be se5 "h1 ,no4 #acbd1 p4 #ei4 ,be+ s well adapt$ = work+ h]aldry1 f an e>ly p]iod till n[1 ?is /it* has be5 mo/ly us$ = ! purpose2 & ! emblazon$ orphreys1 l ! n>r[ hem on ! ,syon cope1 are wr\ght 9 x4 ,! olde/1 ! mo/ elaborate1 ! be/ kn[n sample 9 ! _w1 & :at to u is m int]e/+ /ill f be+ 9 reality n ,fr5* b ,engli% ne$lework1 is ! s-call$1 b misnam$1 ,bayeux tape/ry1 a %r$ ( :i* is 9 ?is collection1 ,no4 #fge1 p4 #f4 ,( all ?is m anon1 ,,iv4 ,! 8opus pect9eum0 0 a k9d ( wov5-"w imitative ( embroid]y1 & us$ z su*1 9 tru?1 ab\t :i* we h a description 9 ! ,diction>y ( ! ,london]1 ,john ,g>l&1 :o ?us speaks ( ! process3 8,textrices ducunt pect9es cum trama qu trahitur a spola et pano10 c4#cah ,f ?is use ( a comb-l in/rum5t--8pect50--9 ! manufacture ! "w itself receiv$ ! di/9ctive appellation ( 8pect9eum10 or comb-wr\ght4 ,be=e ,john ,g>l& =sook ,engl& = ,france1 to tea* a s*ool !re1 he mu/ h (t5 se51 :ile at home1 8 c\ntrywom5 sitt+ d[n to su* an occupation2 & ! 8amictus de dono dom9 ,ka?r9 de ,lovell de op]e pect9eo10#cai may p]haps h be5 ! do+ ( t same lady's own h&s4 #cah ,ed4 ,h4 ,g]aud1 ,p>is s\s ,philippe le ,bel4 p4 #fjg4 #cai ,dugdale's ,hi/4 ( ,/4 ,paul's1 p4 #cai4 ,( su* "w z ?is 8opus pect9eum10 or comb-drawn1 wr\ght by ,engli% wom5 "h at home1 we h sev]al specim5s 9 ?is collection1 pp4 #bd1 #cc1 #ch1 c4 ,=eign ones are pl5tifully repres5t$ 9 ! _m samples ( su* webs f ,g]many1 especially f ,cologne1 pp4 #fa1 #fb1 #fc1 c4 ,likely is x t ,helis5d1 ! bold "y lady f ! s\? ( ,engl&1 & "o ( ! wait+ maids to ! ,engli% ,maud1 que5 ( ,david1 k+ ( ,scotl&1 circa ,a4,d4 #aaej1 got1 f h] cunn+ 9 su* "w1 ! reputation ( be+ s skilful 9 weav+ & *ur*-embroid]y3--8op]is textur sci5tia purpur>ia nobilis extit]at1 et aurifrixoria artificios compositionis p]optima sup] omnes ,angli muli]es tunc temporis pr9cipalit] enitu]at40#cbj ,our m$ival c\ntrywom5 7 s quick at ! ne$le t !y c\ld make _! embroid]y look z if x _h be5 done 9 ! loom--really wov54 ,n long ago1 a %r$ ( crimson c5dal1 figur$ 9 gold & silv] ?read ) a knight on horseback1 arm$ z ( ! latt] "t ( ,edw>d ,i41 0 %[n u4 ,at ! mom5t we took ! m\nt$ w>rior to h be51 n h&-work$1 b wov51 s flat1 s ev5 0 e ?read4 ,look+ at x h[ev] ?r\gh a glass & turn+ x ab\t1 we f\nd x to h be5 unmi/akably embroid]$ by ! f+] 9 su* a way t ! /it*es = lay+ d[n ^u ! surface1 & n draw+ ?r\gh ! gold ?reads & ?us sav+ exp5se1 7 c>ri$ "r into ! canvas l9+ at ! back ( ?is ?9 silk4 ,aft] ?is same mann] 0 really done1 to our ?9k+1 all ! design1 bo? be=e & beh9d ^u t f9e ,engli%-wr\ght *asuble1 ,no4 #fgc1 p4 #e4 ,at ! latt] end ( ! ?irte5? c5tury our wom5 /ruck out = !mselves a new way ( embroid]y4 ,)\t leav+ aside ! old & usual 8opus plum>ium10 or fea!r-/it*1 !y mix$ x ) a new /yle1 bo? ( ne$lework & me*anism4 ,s beautiful & tell+ 0 ! novel me?od deem$ abroad1 t x won = itself f admir+ ,*ri/5dom ! complim5t>y appellation ( 8opus ,anglicum10 or ,engli% "w4 ,9 :at its peculi>ity consi/$ has long be5 a "q & a puzzle among =eign ar*ological writ]s2 & a liv+ "o ( em95ce1 ! ,canon ,vois91 vic> g5]al to ! bi%op ( ,t\rnai1 :ile notic+ a cope ( ,engli% "w giv5 to t *ur*1 says3--8,il s]ait curieux de savoir quelle brod]ie ou quel tissu on designait s\s le nom de opus ,anglicum40#cba #cbj ,reg9aldi ,dunelm5sis ,libellus1 c4 ,ed4 ,surtees ,society1 p4 #aeb4 #cba ,notice sur les ,anci5nes ,tapiss]ies de la ,ca!dral de ,t\rnai1 p4 #af4 ,b ! read] may ask :at is ,,! ,,opus ,,anglicum1 ,,or ,,engli% ,,"w1 ab\t :i* "o he>d s mu* ( old8 ,happily1 we h be=e u 9 ! pres5t collection1 z well z else:]e 9 ?is c\ntry1 ! means ( help+ our cont95tal fri5ds ) an answ] to _! "q4 ,look+ well into t v f9e & invaluable piece ( ,engli% ne$lework1 ! ,syon cope1 ,no4 #iahb1 p4 #bge1 we f9d t = ! human face1 all ov] x1 ! fir/ /it*es 7 begun 9 ! c5tre ( ! *eek1 & work$ 9 circul>1 n /raight l9es1 into :i*1 h[ev]1 aft] ! fur!r side _h be5 made1 !y fell1 & 7 s c>ri$ on ?r\gh ! re/ ( ! fle%es2 9 "s in/ances1 too1 ev5 all ?r\gh ! figure1 drap]ies & all4 ,b ?is 0 done 9 a sort ( *a9 /it*1 & a newly practis$ me*anical appliance 0 br\ght into use4 ,aft] ! :ole figure _h ?us be5 wr\ght ) ?is k9d ( *a9 /it* 9 circles & /raight l9es1 !n ) a little ?9 iron rod end+ 9 a small bulb or smoo? knob slightly heat$1 7 press$ d[n ^? middle spots 9 ! faces t _h be5 work$ 9 circul> l9es2 z well1 too1 z t deep wide dimple 9 ! ?roat1 especially ( an ag$ p]son4 ,by ! holl[s ?us la/+ly sunk1 a play ( light & %ad[ is br\ght out1 t1 at a %ort di/ance1 l5ds to ! portion s treat$ a look ( be+ done 9 l[ relief4 ,*a9 /it*1 !n1 work$ 9 circul> l9es1 & relief giv5 to p>ts by holl[s sunk into ! faces1 & o!r portions ( ! p]sons1 con/itute ! elem5ts ( ! 8opus ,anglicum10 or embroid]y aft] ! ,engli% mann]4 ,h[ ! *a9-/it* 0 work$ into circles = ! faces1 & /raight l9es = ! re/ ( ! figures1 is well %[n by a wood-cut1 aft] a portion ( ! ,/eeple ,a/on embroid]ies1 giv5 9 ! ,ar*ological ,j\rnal1 t4 iv4 p4 #bhe4 ,?\gh1 inde$1 n m]ely ! faces & ! extremities1 b ! dress too ( ! p]sons figur$1 7 sometimes wr\ght 9 *a9-/it*1 & aft]w>ds treat$ z we h j describ$1 ! m g5]al practice 0 to "w ! drap]ies 9 our s-call$ fea!r-/it*1 :i* us$ to be also employ$ = ! gr\nd+1 b diap]$ aft] a pretty1 ?\gh simple1 zig-zag design1 z we f9d 9 ! ,syon cope4 ,ap>t f its /it*+ 9 circles1 & ^? holl[s1 !re are elem5ts 9 ! design = sacr$ art-"w almo/ peculi> to m$ival ,engl&4 ,^u ! rood l(t 9 old ,we/m9/] ,abbey1 /ood h>d by ! cross two six-w+$ s]aphim1 ea* ) 8 feet ^u a :eel2 s1 too1 9 ! ,syon cope1 z well z 9 ,engli% ne$lework on *asubles & copes1 wr\ght ev5 late 9 ! fifte5? c5tury4 ,:51 !re=e1 su* angel-figures are f\nd on embroid]ies1 /ill to be se5 9 =eign h&s1 a presumption exi/s t ! "w is ( ,engli% production4 ,h[ highly ,engli% embroid]ies 7 at "o p]iod appreciat$ by =eign]s may be ga!r$ f ! especial notice tak5 ( !m abroad2 & spok5 ( 9 cont95tal docum5ts4 ,matilda1 ! fir/ ,norman ,william's que51 /oop$ to ! meanness ( fil*+ f ! affright$ ,anglo-,saxon monks ( ,ab+don _! ri*e/ *ur* ve/m5ts1 & w\ld n be put (f ) inf]ior ones4#cbb ,o!r in/ances we h giv54#cbc ,9 8 w1 dat$ ,a4,d4 #acfj1 ,c>d9al ,talair&1 bi%op ( ,albano1 speaks ( ! ,engli% embroid]ies on a co/ly set ( :ite ve/m5ts4#cbd ,gh9i1 by bir? a ,flor5t9e1 b1 9 ! ye> #acdc1 bi%op ( ,t\rnai1 bequea!d to t ca!dral an old ,engli% cope1 z well z a beautiful corporal ( ,engli% "w--8cappam vet]em cum imag9ibus et frixio op]is ,anglicani4 ,item unum corporale de op]e ,anglicano pul*rum10 c4#cbe ,among ! copes res]v$ = prelates' use 9 ! *apel ( ,*>les1 ,duke ( ,b\rgogne1 bro!r-9-law to our ,john ,duke ( ,b$=d1 !re 0 "o ( ,engli% "w1 v elaborately fraught ) _m figures1 z appe>s f ?is description ( x3 8une *appe de brodeure d'or1 faon d',englet]re1 plusieurs hi/oires de ,n4,d4 et anges et autres ymages1 e/ans en laceures escriptes1 g>nie d'un orfroir d'icelle faon fait apo/res1 desquelles les manteulx sont t\s c\v]s de p]les1 et leur diadesmes p\rphil] de p]les1 e/ans en manire de tab]nacles1 faits de deux arbres1 dont les tiges sont t\tes c\v]tes de p]les et la dite *appe y a une bille des dites armes1 g>nie de p]les comme la dessus dicte40#cbf ,besides textiles1 lea!r 0 at "o "t ! mat]ial ^u :i* our embroid]]s ex]cis$ ! ne$le2 & ! ,exet] inv5tory1 drawn up ,a4,d4 #abgg1 m5tions1 = its bi]1 a l>ge pill[ cov]$ ) lea!r figur$ ) fl[]s3 8magnum c]vical co-op]tum coreo cum floribus40#cbg #cbb ,*ronicon ,mona/]ii de ,ab+don1 p4 #dia4 #cbc ,*ur* ( our ,fa!rs1 t4 iv4 p4 #bga1 c4 #cbd ,texi]1 ,dictionnaire1 d',orfev]ie1 p4 #aie4 #cbe ,vois91 ,notice sur les ,anci5nes ,tapiss]ies1 p4 #ag4 #cbf ,les ,ducs de ,b\rgogne1 t4 ii4 p4 #bdd1 ed4 ,le ,comte de ,laborde4 #cbg ,ed4 ,oliv]1 p4 #bih4 ,:ile s covet$ abroad1 our ,engli% embroid]y 0 highly priz$ & well paid = "h at home4 ,h5ry ,,iii4 _h a *asuble embroid]$ by ,mabilia ( ,bury ,/4 ,edmund's2#cbh & ,edw>d ,,ii4 paid a hundr$ m>ks--a good r\nd sum 9 ^? days--to ,rose1 ! wife ( ,john de ,bure=d1 a citiz5 & m]c] ( ,london1 = a *oir-cope ( h] embroid]+1 & :i* 0 to be s5t to ,rome = ! ,pope z an (f]+ f ! que54#cbi ,?\gh ,engli% embroid]y fell on a sudd5 f its high e/ate1 x nev] di$4 ,all along ?r\gh ^? ye>s1 wa/$ ) ! w>s ( ! ,roses1 ! "w ( ! ,engli% ne$le 0 v poor1 v co>se1 &1 s to say1 ragg$2 z1 = in/ance1 ! *asuble "h1 ,no4 #djde1 p4 #hh4 ,no?+ :atsoev] ( ! celebrat$ *a9-/it* ) dimpl$ faces 9 ! figures c be f\nd ab\t x4 ,e "p 0 done 9 ! fea!r-/it*1 slov5ly put d[n1 ) "s few exceptions1 among :i* may be enum]at$ ! ?ree ri* ,engli% copes ) po9t$ hoods runn+1 l "o "h1 p4 #bjg1 ?r\gh ! orphreys1 /ill to be se5 9 ! ,*apt] ,libr>y at ,durham1 & o!r ve/m5ts ( ! p]iod 9 private h&s4 ,dur+ ! e>ly "p ( ! sev5te5? c5tury our embroid]]s aga9 /ruck out = !mselves a new /yle1 :i* consi/$ 9 ?r[+ up _! figures a good height above ! gr\nd+4 ,( ?is rais$ "w !re is a f9e specim5 9 ! f\r? ( ^? ,durham copes4 ,x is said to h be5 wr\ght = & giv5 by ,*>les ,i4 to t ca!dral4 ,?is r$ silk ve/m5t is well spr9kl$ ) bodiless *]ubic heads cr[n$ ) rays & borne up by w+s2 :ile ^u ! hood is %[n ,david1 :o is hold+ 9 "o h& ,golia?'s sev]$ head2 & ! :ole is done 9 highly rais$ embroid]y4 ,belong+ to a few ( our ari/ocracy are bibles ( ! l>ge folio size1 cov]$ 9 ri* :ite silk or sat91 & embroid]$ ) ! royal arms done 9 bold rais$-"w4 ,ea* ( su* volumes is said to h be5 a gift f t pr9ce to a =efa!r ( ! man :o n[ owns x2 & a v f9e "o we lately saw at ,ham ,h\se4 ,?is /yle ( rais$ embroid]y rema9$ 9 use = _m ye>s2 & ev5 yet to be f\nd are c]ta9 qua9t old look+-glasses1 ! broad frames ( :i* are ov]laid ) ?is k9d ( rais$ embroid]y1 sometimes sett+ =?1 z 9 ! specim5 ,no4 #hib1 p4 #cai1 ( ! ,brooke collection "h1 ! /ory ( ,ahasu]us & ,e/h]1 or a passage 9 "s c\rt%ip c>ri$ on aft] ! mann]s ( ,arcadia4#ccj #cbh ,issue ,rolls1 p4 #bc4 #cbi ,issue ,rolls1 p4 #acc4 #ccj ,ar*ological ,j\rnal1 t4 xviii4 #aia4 ,occasionally on "w ( an e>li] p]iod1 "s elem5t or ano!r ( ?is rais$ /yle may be f\nd2 = in/ance1 9 t f9e ,rh5i% embroid]y1 ,nos4 #aaid-e1 p4 #ba1 ! bu%9ess ( hair on all ! angels' heads1 is /rik+1 b ?is is done ) little locks ( auburn col\r$ silk4 ,b a v few p1 at ! pres5t mom5t1 h ! fa9te/ idea ab\t ! lab\r1 ! money1 ! l5g? ( "t (t5 be/[$ ( old ^u embroid]ies :i* _h be5 sket*$ z well z wr\ght by ! h&s ( m51 ea* 9 8 own craft ! able/ & mo/ cunn+ ( t day4 ,9 behalf ( ?is our own l&1 we may ga!r evid5ces /rew$ all ov] ! pres5t ,introduction3 z a pro( ( ! self-same do+s else:]e1 may be set =? a rem>kable passage giv51 9 8 life ( ,antonio ,pollaiuolo1 by ,vas>i1 :]e he says3 8,= ,san ,giovanni 9 ,flor5ce !re 7 made c]ta9 v ri* ve/m5ts aft] ! design ( ?is ma/]1 namely1 two dalmatics1 a *asuble1 & a cope1 all ( gold-wove velvet ) pile ^u pile--di broccato riccio sopra riccio--ea* wov5 ( "o entire piece & )\t seam1 ! bord]+ & ornam5ts be+ /ories f ! life ( ,/4 ,john1 embroid]$ ) ! mo/ subtile ma/]y ( t art by ,paolo da ,v]ona1 a man mo/ em95t ( 8 call+1 & ( incomp>able +5uity3 ! figures are no less ably execut$ ) ! ne$le ?an !y w\ld h be5 if ,antonio _h pa9t$ !m ) ! p5cil2 & = ?is we are l>gely indebt$ to ! "o ma/] = 8 design1 z well z to ! o!r = 8 pati5ce 9 embroid]+ x4 ,?is "w took tw5ty-six ye>s = its completion1 be+ :olly 9 close /it*--que/i ricami fatti con punto s]rato--:i*1 to say no?+ ( its durability1 makes ! "w appe> z if x 7 a real picture limn$ ) ! p5cil2 b ! excell5t me?od ( :i* is n[ all b lo/1 ! cu/om be+ 9 ^! days to make ! /it*es mu* wid]--il punteggi>e piu l>go--:]eby ! "w is r5d]$ less durable & mu* less pleas+ to ! eye40#cca ,^! ve/m5ts may yet be se5 fram$ & glaz$ 9 presses ar\nd ! sacri/y ( ,san ,giovanni4#ccb ,antonio di$ ,a4,d4 #adih4 ,! magnific5t cope once belong+ to ,we/m9/] ,abbey1 & n[ at ,/onyhur/ & exhibit$ "h1 ,a4,d4 #ahfb1 is ( "o seamless piece ( gorge\s gold tissue figur$ ) bold wide-spread+ foliage 9 crimson velvet1 pile ^u pile1 & dott$ ) small gold spots2 x came1 x is likely1 f ! same loom t ?rew (f ^! ,san ,giovanni ve/m5ts1 at ,flor5ce40 #cca ,vite de' piu ,eccell5ti ,pittori1 c41 di ,g4 ,vas>i1 ,fir5ze1 ,f4 ,le ,monni]1 #ahdi4 t4 v4 pp4 #aja1 #ajb2 ,engli% translation1 by ,mrs4 ,fo/]1 t4 ii4 p4 #bbi4 #ccb ,ib4 ,,our ,,old ,,engli% ,,opus ,,consutum1 ,,or ,,cut ,,"w1 9 ,fr5*1 8appliqu10 is a t]m ( r wide mean+1 z x takes 9 sev]al sorts ( decorative accompanim5ts to ne$lework4 ,:5 any?+--fl[]1 fruit1 or figure--is wr\ght by itself ^u a sep>ate piece ( silk or canvas1 & aft]w>ds sew$ on to ! ve/m5t = *ur* use1 or article = dome/ic purpose1 x comes to be kn[n z 8cut-"w40 ,?\gh (t5 mix$ ) embroid]y1 & (t5] /ill employ$ by itself ^u liturgical g>m5ts2 (t5e/ ( all1 x is to be f\nd 9 b$-curta9s1 hang+s = rooms & halls1 h5ce call$ 8hall+s10 & o!r items 9 h\sehold furniture4 ,( cut-"w 9 embroid]y1 ^? pieces ( spl5did ,rh5i% ne$lework ) ! blazonm5t ( ,cleves1 all sew$ ^u a gr\nd ( crimson silk1 z we see1 ,nos4 #aaid-e1 p4 #ba4 ,! *asuble ( crimson d\ble-pile velvet1 ,no4 #gh1 p4 #a1 af=ds ano!r good example4 ,! ni*es 9 :i* ! sa9ts /& are loom-wr\ght1 b ^? p]sonages !mselves are exquisitely done on sep>ate pieces ( f9e canvass1 & aft]w>ds let into ! unwov5 spaces left op5 = !m4 ,a ,flor5t9e piece ( cut-"w1 ,no4 #eghh1 p4 #aaa1 is alike rem>kable = its great beauty1 & ! skill %[n 9 br++ toge!r s nicely1 weav+ & embroid]y4 ,mu* ( ! ar*itectural accessories is loom-wr\ght1 :ile ! extremities ( ! evangeli/s are all done by ! ne$le2 b ! head1 neck1 & long be>d are work$ by !mselves ^u v f9e l951 & aft]w>ds put toge!r aft] su* a way t ! full :ite be>d ov]laps ! tunic4 ,ano!r & a l>g] example1 f ,flor5ce1 ( ! same sort1 is furni%$ u at ,no4 #gh1 p4 #a4 ,q notewor?y too is ! old & valuable ve/m5t1 ,no4 #fgc1 p4 #e1 9 ?is reg>d1 = p>ts ( ! web 9 ! back orphrey 7 left op51 9 ! looms = ! heads1 & extremities ( ! figures !re1 to be done aft]w>ds 9 ne$lework4 ,su* a me?od ( weav+ 0 practis$ 9 p>ts ( ,g]many1 & ! web f ! looms ( ,cologne1 ,no4 #acbi1 p4 #fa1 exhibits an example4 ,o!r me?ods 7 bade to come & yield a quick] help 9 ?is cut-"w4 ,to be m exp$iti\s1 all ! figures 7 at once %ap$ out ( wov5 silk1 sat91 velvet1 l951 or wooll5 clo? z want$1 & sew$ ^u ! gr\nd+ ( ! article4 ,^u ! p]sonages ?us fa%ion$ 9 silk1 sat91 or l951 ! features ( ! face & ! cont\rs ( ! body 7 wr\ght by ! ne$le 9 v n>r[ l9es done 9 br[n silk ?read4 ,at times1 ev5 ?us mu* ( embroid]y 0 set aside = ! pa9t+ bru%1 & in/ances are to be f\nd 9 :i* ! spaces left uncov]$ by ! loom = ! heads & extremities ( ! human figures1 are fill$ 9 by l9es f ! bru%4 ,(t51 too1 ! cut-"w done 9 ^! ways is fram$1 z x 71 ) an edg+1 ei!r 9 pla9 or gilt lea!r1 hemp51 or silk5 cord1 exactly l ! lead+s ( a /a9$ glass w9d[4 ,belong+ to ourselves is an old ,engli% *asuble1 ! broad cross1 at ! back ( :i* is figur$ ) 8,! ,resurrection ( ! ,body40 ,! dead are aris+ f _! graves1 & ea* is wr\ght 9 sat91 ^u :i* ! features on ! face1 & ! l9eam5ts ( ! re/ ( ! body1 are %[n by ?9 l9es work$ ) ! ne$le 9 d>k br[n silk2 & ! edge1 :]e ea* figure is sew$ on ! gr\nd+1 is cov]$ ) a n>r[ black silk cord1 aft] mu* ! same fa%ion z ! lect]n-veil "h1 ,no4 #gdfh1 p4 #ada1 ( silk & gold cut "w4 ,in/ances !re are :]e91 in/ead ( ne$lework1 pa9t+ 0 resort$ to2 ,no4 #hcae1 p4 #ahi1 %[s u a f9e art-"w 9 its way1 ^u :i* we see ! folds ( ! :ite l95 g>m5t worn by our ,"l1 m>k$ by br[n l9es put 9 ) ! bru%1 :ile ! head & extremities1 & ! gr\nd /rew$ ) fl[]s1 are wr\ght ) ! ne$le4 ,no4 #hfhg1 p4 #beh1 gives u a figure :]e ! :ole ( ! p]son1 ! fle%es & clo?+1 are done 9 wov5 silk cut out1 %ad$ & featur$ 9 col\rs by ! bru% ) "s little ne$lework "h & !re ^u ! g>m5ts4 ,9 t old specim51 ,no4 #hgac1 p4 #bgj1 su* p>ts ( ! design z 7 meant to be :ite are left uncov]$ ^u ! l951 & ! %ad+ is indicat$ by br[n l9es4 ,p]haps 9 no collection op5 any:]e to public view c\ld be f\nd a piece ( cut-"w s full ( tea*+ ab\t ! process1 & its easy way ( execution1 z ! "o "h1 ,no4 #acgj1 p4 #gf2 to x we e>ne/ly recomm5d ! att5tion ( su* ( our read]s z may wi% to le>n all ab\t ?is me?od4 ,= ! inv5tion ( cut-"w or 8di commesso10 z ,vas>i calls x1 t writ] tells u we are indebt$ to "o ( 8 ,flor5t9e c\ntrym53 8,x 0 by ,s&ro ,botticelli t ! me?od ( prep>+ bann]s & /&>ds 9 :at is call$ cut-"w1 0 inv5t$2 & ?is he did t ! col\rs might n s9k ?r\gh1 %[+ ! t9t ( ! clo? on ea* side4 ,! balda*9o ( ,orsanmi*ele is by ?is ma/]1 & is s treat$10 c41 & ?is "w s]ves to %[ h[ mu* m effectually t mode ( proce$+ pres]ves ! clo? ?an d ^? mordants1 :i*1 corrod+ ! surface1 all[ b a %ort life to ! "w2 b z ! mordants co/ less1 !y are m frequ5tly us$ 9 our day ?an ! fir/-m5tion$ me?od4#ccc ,h[ev] accurate su* a /atem5t may be reg>d+ ,italy 9 g5]al1 & ,tuscany 9 p>ticul>1 x is1 nev]!less1 utt]ly untrue z applicable to ! re/ ( ! _w4 ,9 ?is collection may be se5 a valuable piece ( ?is same cut-"w--or z ,vas>i w\ld call x 8di commesso0--by ,fr5* h&s1 fraught ) a /ory out ( our ,engli% ,romance1 & done t[>ds ! end ( ! f\rte5? c5tury1 ,no4 #acgj1 p4 #gf4 ,n[1 z ,botticelli 0 born ,a4,d4 #adeg1 & di$ ,a4,d4 #aeae1 he came into be+ almo/ a :ole c5tury too late to h orig9at$ su* a process ( ornam5tal ne$lework1 :i* 0 well kn[n & practis$ 9 ^! p>ts s _m ye>s be=e ! bir? ( t ,flor5t9e pa9t]4 #ccc ,vite de' piu ,eccell5ti ,pittori1 c41 di ,g4 ,vas>i1 t4 v4 p4 #aba2 ,engli% translation1 t4 ii4 p4 #bci4 ,!re are "s accessories1 9 m$ival embroid]y1 :i* ought n to be ov]look$ "h4 ,9 "s few in/ances1 ,,gold1 ,,& ,,silv] ,,gilt1 9 v _m m1 wr\ght aft] ! smi?'s cunn+ into little />-l fl[]s--broad]1 bigg]1 & m craftily fa%ion$ ?an our mod]n spangles--are to be f\nd sew$ ^u ! silks or amid ! embroid]y 9 ! specim5s be=e u1 p>ticul>ly ^? f ,v5ice & its ma9-l& prov9ces 9 ,italy1 & f ,s\!rn ,g]many4 ,at ,no4 #hbgd1 pp4 #afh-i1 we h a "p ( an orphrey embroid]$ on p>*m5t1 & hav+ along ) its coral1 gold beads1 & se$ pe>ls1 small bosses & ornam5ts 9 gild$ silv] />s2 x is ,v5etian1 & ( ! second half ( ! twelf? c5tury4 ,no4 #hcjg1 pp4 #ahe-f is a l95 amice1 ! silk5 app>el ( :i* has sew$ to x l>ge spangle-l plates 9 gild$ silv] /ruck ) a v>iety ( patt]ns1 %[+ h[ ! goldsmi?'s h& _h be5 s\ght by ! ,g]mans ( ! fifte5? c5tury to give beauty to ?is silk5 /uff4 ,! f9e piece ( ruby-t9t$ ,g5oa velvet1 :i* 0 once ! app>el = ! l[] hem ( an alb1 is spr9kl$ some:at ?ickly ) six-ray$ />s ( gold & silv]2 b ^? made ( ! latt] metal h turn$ almo/ black3 "h we h a sample ( ,lomb>d ta/e 9 ?is matt]1 ( ! end+ ( ! fifte5? c5tury4 ,silv]-gilt spangles wr\ght to figure six-petall$ fl[]s on a f9e example ( gold tissue1 "u ,no4 #hehh1 pp4 #bbb-c1 pres5t u ) a ,g]man craftsman's "w1 9 ! f\rte5? c5tury4 ,no4 #hfab1 p4 #bcc1 is n )\t its value 9 ref]5ce to ,italian ta/e4 ,all ov]1 ?is curi\s n[ fragm5tal piece ( silk damask1 has at "o "t be5 ?ickly /rew$ ) trefoils cut out ( gilt metal1 b v ?91 & n sew$ b glu$ on to ! silk3 _m ( ^! leaves h fall5 (f1 & ^? rema9+ turn$ black4 ,f among ^! examples a few w %[ ! read] h[ ! goldsmi? _h be5 task$ to "w ^u !m z jewell] also1 & gem ! liturgical g>m5ts to :i* ^! %r$s belong1 ) real or imitat$ preci\s /ones4 ,9 ! orphrey ^u ! back ( t v ri* f9e crimson velvet *asuble1 ,no4 #acge1 pp4 #ha-b1 ! cross$ nimb ab\t our ,"l's head is gemm$ ) /ones set 9 silv] gilt2 & ! sockets /ill left on ! piece ( crimson velvet1 ,no4 #hccd1 p4 #aii1 unmi/akably speak = !mselves4 ,besides preci\s /ones1 coral1 & se$-pe>ls1 ,,glass1 col\r$ & wr\ght into small beads & bugles1 is ano!r ( ^? h>d mat]ials1 ! pres5ce ( :i* we f9d 9 ?is collection4 ,z n[1 s f> back dur+ ! m$ival p]iod1 ! ,v5etians1 at ! isl& ( ,murano1 wr\ght small glass beads & bugles ( all col\rs1 z well z pa/es--smalti--9 e t9t = mosaics1 & imitations ( jewels4 ,?is art1 :i* !y _h le>n$ f ! ,greeks1 !y foll[$ ) signal success2 & likely is x t f ,v5ice came ! sev]al specim5s ( glass--blue1 l lapis lazuli--:i* we /ill see on t beautiful frontal 9 ,we/m9/] ,abbey1#ccd--! "w ( our c\ntryman ,pet] de ,ispagna1#cce ! memb] ( an old ,essex family4 ,at ,no4 #hbgf1 pp4 #afh-i1 is a piece ( an orphrey = a *asuble1 pl5tifully embroid]$ ) glass beads & bugles1 :i* %[s h[ mu* su* a /yle ( ornam5t 0 us$ t[>ds ! latt] end ( ! twelf? c5tury1 at lea/ 9 ,l[] ,g]many1 & "s ( ! ,italian prov9ces4 ,belong+ to ,/4 ,paul's1 ,london1 ,a4,d4 #abie1 among _m o!r amices1 !re 0 "o hav+ glass /ones ^u x2 8amictus 444 ornatus lapidibus vitreis magnis et p>vis p] totum 9 capsis arg5teis deauratis1 c40#ccf #ccd ,*ur* ( our ,fa!rs1 #a1 p4 #bce4 #cce ,monum5ta ,vetu/a1 vi4 p4 #bf4 #ccf ,dugdale's ,/4 ,paul's1 p4 #cah4 ,,enamel4 ,ano!r =m ( glass fa/5$ by heat to gold & copp]--enamel1 ! inv5tion nei!r ( ,egypt1 ,greece1 nor ,italy1 b ( our own old ,britons1#ccg 0 ext5sively employ$ z an adornm5t ^u textiles4 ,besides ! examples we h giv51#cch t gorge\s 8*esable ( r$ clo? ( gold ) orphreys be=e & beh9d set ) pe>ls1 blue1 :ite & r$1 ) plates ( gold enamell$1 want+ fifte5 plates1 c40#cci be/[$ by ,john ( ,gaunt's du*ess ( ,lanca/]1 ^u ,l9coln ,ca!dral1 is ano!r in/ance to %[ h[ su* a k9d ( ri* ornam5tation 0 sew$ to g>m5ts1 especially = *ur* use1 9 su* l>ge quantities4 #ccg ,philo/ratus1 ,icon4 ,l4 #a4 cap4 #ebh4 #cch ,*ur* ( our ,fa!rs1 t4 i4 p4 #dfi4 #cci ,dugdale's ,mon4 ,anglic4 t4 ,,viii4 p4 #abha4 ,"h1 9 ,engl&1 ! old cu/om 0 to sew a great deal ( goldsmi?'s "w1 = enri*m5t1 ^u articles meant = p]sonal we>1 z well z on ritual g>m5ts4 ,:5 our fir/ ,edw>d's grave1 9 ,we/m9/] ,abbey1 0 op5$1 ,a4,d4 #aggd1 on ! body ( ! k+1 besides o!r silk5 robes1 0 se51 a /ole-l b& ( ri* :ite tissue put ab\t ! neck1 & cross$ ^u 8 brea/3 x 0 /udd$ ) gilt quatrefoils 9 filigree "w & embroid]$ ) pe>ls4 ,f ! knees d[nw>ds ! body 0 wrapp$ 9 a pall ( clo? ( gold4 ,conc]n+ attire = liturgical use1 ! fact may be v]ifi$ 9 ^? in/ances we h else:]e giv54#cdj ,:5 ,h5ry ,,iii41 9 ! latt] end ( 8 reign1 be/[$ a frontal on ! high alt> 9 ,we/m9/] ,abbey1 besides c>buncles 9 gold5 sett+s1 z we h j read1 p4 xxxvi1 we may h obs]v$ t along ) sev]al l>g] pieces ( enamel1 !re 7 z _m z #hff small] ones--! 8esmaux de plique0 ( ! ,fr5*--all fa/5$ on ?is liturgical embroid]y4 ,a good in/ance ( ! appliance ( figur$ solid gold or silv]1 ^u *ur* ve/m5ts1 is ! foll[+ "o ( a cope beat5 all ov] ) lions 9 silv]1 giv5 by a well-wi%] to ,gla/onbury ,abbey3--8d$]at unam capam rubeam cum leonibus lam9is arg5teis cap infixis1 c40#cda ,9 ! ,norman-,fr5*1 = s long a p]iod 9 use at our ,c\rt1 silk5 /uffs ?us ornam5t$ 7 said to be 8batuz10 or z we n[ say beat5 ) hamm]$-up gold4 ,among ! liturgical furniture provid$ by ,ri*>d ,,ii4 = ! *apel 9 ! ca/le ( ,hav]=d1 7 8ii rydell batuz0--two alt>-curta9s beat5 7no d\bt ) ornam5ts 9 gilt silv]47#cdb #cdj ,*ur* ( ,our ,fa!rs1 i4 #cfj1 #cfb1 #dfi1 c4 #cda ,johannes ,gla/oni5sis1 p4 #bjc4 #cdb ,kal5d>s ( ! ,treasury1 c4 ed4 ,palgrave1 t4 iii4 p4 #cei4 ,= ! secul> employm5t ( ?is same sort ( decoration1 we h sev]al curi\s examples4 ,our ladies' dresses = gr& occasions 7 s adorn$1 z we may see 9 ! v]ses foll[+3-- ,9 a robe ryght ryall b[ne1 ,( a r$d syclat[ne1 ,be hur fadur syde2 ,a coronell on hur h$d sett1 ,hur clo?ys wy? be/es & byrdes w] bete1 ,all ab[te = pryde4#cdc ,a4,d4 #abae our ,k+ ,john s5t an ord] to ,reg9ald de ,cornhull & ,william ,cook to h made = him1 besides five tunics1 five bann]s ) 8 arms ^u !m1 well beat5 9 gold3 8qu9que ban]ias de armis no/ris b5e auro bacuatas0 7sic74#cdd ,! c = t mu/ be a mispr9t 9 ! la/ ^w4 ,an amice at ,/4 ,paul's _h on x ! figures ( two bi%ops & a k+ hamm]$ up out ( gilt silv]3 8amictus ornatus cum duobus magnis episcopis et uno rege /antibus arg5teis deauratis40#cde ,f ! orig9al bill = fitt+ out "o ( ! %ips 9 :i* ,beau*amp1 ,e>l ( ,w>wick1 dur+ ! reign ( ,h5ry ,,vi41 w5t ov] to ,france1 :]e he _h be5 appo9t$ to a high comm&1 we ga!r h9ts :i* ?r[ light ^u ?is z well z sev]al matt]s belong+ to ?is ,introduction4 ,among o!r items = ! above-nam$ equipage are ^!3--8,f\r hundr$ p5cils 7long n>r[ /rips1 may be ( silk1 us$ z flags71 beat ) ! ,ragg$/aff 9 silv]2 ! o!r pavys 7"o ( two %ields1 likely ( wood1 & fa/5$ outside ! %ip at its b[s71 pa9t$ ) black1 & a ,ragg$/aff beat ) silv] occupy+ all ! field2 "o coat 7p]haps ( silk1 b no d\bt blazon$ ) ! ,beau*amp's arms17 = my ,"l's body1 beat ) f9e gold2 two coats 7l ! =ego+7 = h]alds1 beat ) demi gold2 a great /ream] = a %ip ( =ty ye>ds 9 l5g? & eight ye>ds 9 bread?1 ) a great ,be> & ,griff9 hold+ a ,ragg$/aff p\dr$ full ( ,ragg$/affs2 ?ree p5ons 7small flags7 ( satt52 sixte5 /&>ds ( wor/$ entail$ ) ! ,be> & a *a940#cdf ,! quatrefoils on ! robe ( our ,fir/ ,edw>d1 ! silv] lions on ! ,gla/onbury cope1 ! bea/s & birds on ! lady's g[n1 ! ,be>1 & ,griff91 & ,ragg$/aff belong+ to ! ,beau*amp's blazon+1 & all su* l enri*m5ts--mo/ly h]aldic--put ^u silk5 /uffs1 7 cut out ( v ?9 plates ( gold or silv]1 s z to hang ^u !m lightly1 & 7 hamm]$ up to %[ 9 l[ relief ! fa%ion ( ! fl[] & ! l9eam5ts ( ! bea/ or bird meant to be repres5t$4 ,9 fact1 su* a /yle ( ornam5tation done 9 gold or silv]1 /it*$ on silk5 /uffs made up into liturgical g>m5ts1 knights' coats ( arms1 ladies' dresses1 h]alds' tab>ds1 or flags & p5oncels1 0 f> m common once ?an is n[ ?\ght4 ,x _h /ruck out = itself a te*nical expression4 ,9 speak+ ( x m5 w\ld ei!r write or say1 8silk beat5 ) gold or silv]10 z ! case might be--a mean+1 by ! way1 = ! ^w 8beat10 q ov]look$ by our lexicograph]s2 yet1 mak+ h] w z late z ! ye> #aech1 ,b>b>a ,mason bequea!d to a *ur* 8a ve/m5t ( gr5e sylke betyn ) goold40#cdg #cdc ,anci5t ,engli% ,metrical ,romances1 t4 iii4 pp4 #h1 #i4 #cdd ,close ,rolls1 ed4 ,d4 ,h>dy1 p4 #aic4 #cde ,dugdale1 p4 #cah4 #cdf ,dugdale's ,b>onage ( ,engl&1 i4 #bdf4 #cdg ,bury ,wills1 p4 #acd4 ,! badge on ! arm ( ! liv]y coat once commonly worn1 & yet r[$ = by ! ,?ames wat]m51 z well z ! armorials figur$1 be=e & beh9d1 ^u ! f9e old picturesque frocks ( our buffeti]s--! yeom5 ( ! ,royal gu>d1 call$ 9 ,london 8beefeat]s10--help to keep up ! tradition ( su* a /yle ( ornam5t 9 dress4 ,spangles1 :5 !y happ5$ to be us$1 7 n l su* z are n[ employ$1 b fa%ion$ aft] ano!r & arti/ic %ape1 & put on 9 a diff]5t mann]4 ,be=e me lies a %r$ f ! *asuble belong+ to ! set ( ve/m5ts wr\ght1 x is said1 by ,isabella ( ,spa9 & h] maids ( hon\r1 & worn ! fir/ "t high mass 0 sung 9 ,granada1 aft] x _h be5 tak5 by ! ,spani>ds f ! ,moors4 ,^u ?is %r$ are fl[]s1 well ?r[n up 9 relief1 done 9 spangles on a crimson velvet gr\nd4 ,^! spangles--"s 9 gold1 "s 9 silv]--are1 ?\gh small1 9 sev]al sizes2 all are void$--t is1 holl[ 9 ! middle--) ! circumf]5ce n flat1 b convex1 & are sew$ on l tiles "o ov]lapp+ ! o!r1 & ?us produce a ri* & pleas+ effect4 ,our pres5t spangles1 9 ! flat %ape1 are q mod]n4 ,sadly ov]look$1 or b scantily employ$ on mod]n embroid]ies1 is ! process ( ,,diap]+1 aft] s _m graceful & ev]-v>y+ =ms to be f\nd almo/ always ^u m$ival works ( ! ne$le4 ,! g>m5ts worn by high p]sonages 9 ! embroid]y1 & meant to imitate a gold5 textile1 7 done 9 gold pass+ sometimes by itself1 sometimes ) col\r$ silk ?read laid d[n alt]nately aside x1 s z to l5d a t+e ( gre51 crimson1 p9k1 or blue1 to ! imag9$ tissue ( ! robe1 z if x 7 made ( a gold5 /uff %ot ) ! adopt$ t9t4 ,= putt+ on ?is gold pass+1 x 0 ( c\rse requir$ to sew x d[n4 ,n[1 f ?is v ne$ful & me*anical requirem5t1 ^? m$ival ne$lewom5 s\ght & got an admirable z well z +5i\s elem5t ( ornam5tation1 & s tru?ful too4 ,( ?is our ladies at ?is day1 seem1 f _! "w1 to h a v n>r[1 %ort idea4 ,tak+ ?9 7usually r$7 silk1 & :ile fa/5+ ! gold5 or silv] pass+1 !y dott$ x all ov] 9 small /it*es set exactly aft] a way t %[$ ! "o same patt]n4 ,s teem+ 7 _! bra9s 9 ?is matt] t h>dly ! same design 9 diap]+ is twice to be f\nd ^u ! same embroid]$ picture4 ,) no o!r appliance !y 7 ?us enabl$ to l5d to _! drap]ies ! appe>ance ( hav+ be51 n wr\ght by ! ne$le1 b actually cut out ( a piece ( textile1 & = :i* !y h be5 sometimes mi/ak54 ,( ! _m samples "h ( ?is k9d ( diap]+ we select "o or two--,nos4 #aaid-e1 p4 #ba1 :i* is s v f9e1 & ( itself q en\gh = %[+ :at we wi% to po9t out1 & to w>rant our praises ( ! me?od2 ,no4 #hhcg1 p4 #bjj1 is ano!r wor? att5tion4 ,,?read ,,embroid]y1 aft] sev]al ( its modes1 is repres5t$ "h2 & ?\gh ! specim5s are n _m1 "s ( !m are spl5did4 ,by our ,engli% wom51 hundr$s ( ye>s gone by1 among o!r applications ( ! ne$le1 "o 0 to d>n ^u l95 nett+ or "w !reon ) o!r k9ds ( /it*]y1 religi\s subjects = ,*ur*-use2 or fl[]s & animals = h\sehold furniture4 ,9 ?is c\ntry su* a sort ( embroid]+ 0 call$ net-"w--filatorium--z we le>n f ! ,exet] ,inv5tory1 :]e we read t its ca!dral possess$1 ,a4,d4 #acbg1 ?ree pieces ( x1 = use at ! alt>--"o 9 p>ticul> = ?r[+ ov] ! desk3 8tria filatoria l9ea1 unde unum pro desco40#cdh ,f _! liturgical use1 z we h notic$1 p4 #bab1 !y 7 m g5]ally nam$ lect]n-veils1 & z su* are spok5 (1 9 ! same ,devon%ire docum5t3 8i lectionale de panno l9eo op]ato de op]e acuali1 c40#cdi ,( ^? n>r[1 light1 & moveable lect]ns ov] :i* ^! l95 embroid]ies 7 ca/1 ,exet] _h ?ree--two ( wood1 ano!r :i* fold$ up 7see p4 #bab "h17 ( iron3 8i descus volubilis de f]ro1 pro ,evangelio supra leg5do2 ii alia lectr9a lignea40#cej ,almo/ e "o ( ^! ?read embroid]ies 7 wr\ght dur+ ! f\rte5? c5tury1 & sev]al ( !m = ! s]vice ( ! sanctu>y1 ei!r z r]$os1 frontal1 or lect]n-veil2 & :ile ^? describ$ at pp4 #ai1 #bj1 #ca1 #ec1 #fj1 #ga1 #ii1 #abj1 #bdb-c1 #bdi1 #bfa-g1 des]ve consid]ation1 a m complete & an especial notice is due to ^? two v f9e ones "u ,nos4 #hceh1 p4 #baj1 & #hfah1 p4 #bce4 ,z e>ly z ,a4,d4 #abie1 ,/4 ,paul's _h a cu%ion cov]$ ) knott$ ?read3 8pulv9> op]tum de albo filo nodato40#cea #cdh ,ed4 ,oliv]1 p4 #cab4 #cdi ,ib4 p4 #cef4 #cej ,ib4 p4 #cbi4 #cea ,dugdale1 p4 #caf4 ,,quilt+1 too1 mu/ n be =gott5 "h2 & a %ort look at ,nos4 #gbg1 p4 #ad1 & #ghf1 p4 #af1 w be suffici5t to make u und]/& h[1 9 h&s guid$ by ta/e1 a "w ( real1 ?\gh humble art1 may be br\ght out & %ewn ^u any article1 f a lady's skirt to a g5tleman's daily skull-cap1 by su* a use ( ! ne$le4 ,cro*et1 knitt+ done ) l95 ?read1 & 9 ! conv5ts ?r\gh\t ,fl&]s1 z well z ! ?ick k9ds ( lace wr\ght !re ^u ! cu%ion ) bobb9s1 came1 "u ! "n ( nun's lace1 to be ev]y:]e mu* employ$1 f ! sixte5? c5tury & upw>ds1 = bord]+ alt>-clo?s1 albs1 & e sort ( t[el requir$ 9 ! celebration ( ! liturgy4 ,no4 #aceh1 p4 #gb1 is a good example4 ,,section ,,iii4--,,tape/ry4 ,?\gh reg>d+ actual "t s v old1 /ill 9 comp>ison ) weav+ & embroid]y1 ! art ( tape/ry is1 x w\ld seem1 ! y\nge/ ( ! ?ree4 ,x is nei!r real weav+1 nor true embroid]y1 b unites 9 its work+ ^? two processes into "o4 ,?\gh wr\ght 9 a loom & ^u a w>p /ret*$ out along its frame1 x has no wo( ?r[n across ^? ?reads ) a %uttle or any l appliance1 b its weft is done ) _m %ort ?reads1 all v>i\sly col\r$1 & put 9 by a k9d ( ne$le4 ,x is n embroid]y1 ?\gh s v l x1 = tape/ry is n work$ ^u :at is really a web--hav+ bo? w>p & wo(--b ^u a s]ies ( closely set f9e /r+s4 ,f ! way 9 :i* tape/ry is spok5 ( 9 ,holy ,writ1 we are sure ! art mu/ be v old2 b if x did n take its fir/ rise 9 ,egypt1 we are l$ by ! same au?ority to conclude t x soon became mu* & successfully cultivat$ by ! p ( t l&4 ,! woman 9 ,prov]bs vii4 #af1 says3--8,i h wov5 my b$ ) cords4 ,i h cov]$ x ) pa9t$ tape/ry1 br\ght f ,egypt40 ,:ile1 !re=e1 9 ^? words we he> h[ x us$ to be employ$ z an article ( h\sehold furniture among ! ,israelites1 by !m are we also told t ! ,egyptians 7 ! mak]s4 ,l weav+ & f9e ne$lework1 ! art ( tape/ry came f ,egypt & ,asia1 we/w>d2 & 9 ! days ( ,virgil our old ,briti% sires 7 employ$ 9 ! !atres at ,rome z sc5e-%ift]s1 :]e !y _h to take away ^? tape/ries on :i* !y !mselves1 z examples ( imp]ial triumph1 _h be5 figur$3-- ,juvat 444 ,vel sc5a ut v]sis disc$at frontibus1 utque ,purpurea intexti tollant aula ,britanni4#ceb ,f ,egypt ?r\gh ,we/]n ,asia ! art ( tape/ry-mak+ f\nd its way to ,europe1 & at la/ to u2 & among ! o!r manual lab\rs foll[$ by _! rule 9 religi\s h\ses1 ?is h&icraft 0 "o1 & ! monks became "s ( its be/ workm54 ,! alt>s & ! walls ( _! *ur*es 7 hung ) su* an ornam5tation4 ,mat!w ,p>is tells u1 t among o!r ornam5ts :i*1 9 ! reign ( ,h5ry ,i1 ,abbot ,ge(frey _h made = 8 *ur* ( ,/4 ,alban's mona/]y1 7 ?ree r]$oses1 ! fir/ a l>ge "o wr\ght ) ! f9d+ ( ,engl&'s protom>tyr's body2 ! o!r two small]-ones figur$ ) ! gospel /ory ( ! man :o fell among ?ieves1 ! o!r ) t ( ! prodigal son3 8d$it quoque dossale magnum 9 quo intexitur inv5tio ,sancti ,albani1 cujus campus e/ a]ius1 et aliud m9us ubi effigiatur ,evangelium de sauciato qui incidit 9 latrones1 et t]tium ubi hi/oria de filio prodigo figuratur40#cec ,:ile 9 ,london1 ,a4,d4 #acaf1 ,simon ,abbot1 ( ,ramsey1 b\ght = 8 monks' use looms1 /aves1 %uttles & a slay3 8pro weblomes emptis xxs4 ,et pro /aves ad easdem vjd4 ,item pro iiij %ittles pro eodem op]e ijs vjd4 ,item 9 j4 slay pro textoribus viijd40#ced ,:at 0 done 9 "o mona/]y 0 b ! reflex ( e o!r2 h5ce1 ,giff>d1 "o ( ! commission]s = ! suppression ( ! small] h\ses1 9 ! reign ( ,h5ry ,,viii41 ?us writes to ,cromwell1 :ile speak+ ( ! mona/]y ( ,wol/rope1 9 ,l9coln%ire3--8,n "o religi\s p]son !re b t he c & do? use ei!r imbro!r+1 writ+ books ) v fair h&1 mak+ _! own g>m5ts1 c>v+1 pa9t+1 or grav+1 c40#cee #ceb ,georg4 ,l4 iii4 #bd1 c4 #cec ,vit ,s4 ,albani ,abbatum1 p4 #dj4 #ced ,mon4 ,anglic4 ii4 p4 #ehe4 #cee ,colli]1 ,ecclesia/ical ,hi/ory ( ,great ,brita91 ed4 ,la?bury1 t4 v4 p4 #c4 ,pieces ( ,engli%-made tape/ry /ill rema94 ,t f9e1 ?\gh mutilat$ specim5 at ,/4 ,m>y's ,hall1 ,cov5try1 is "o2 a second is ! curi\s r]$os = an alt>1 belong+ to ! ,london ,v9tn]s' ,company2 x is figur$ ) ,/4 ,m>t9 on horseback cutt+ ) 8 sword 8 cloak 9 two1 t he might give "o-half to a begg> man2 & ) ,/4 ,dun/an s++ mass1 & wr\ght by ! monks ( ,/4 ,alban's4 ,?\gh practis$ f> & wide1 ! art ( weav+ tape/ry became mo/ successfully foll[$ 9 _m p>ts ( ,france & ?r\gh\t anci5t ,fl&]s :]e secul> trade-gilds 7 =m$ = its especial manufacture1 9 _m ( its t[ns4 ,sev]al ( ^! cities won = !mselves an especial fame2 b s f>1 at la/1 did ,arras outrun !m all t arras-"w came1 9 ! end1 to be ! common ^w1 bo? "h & on ! ,cont95t1 to mean all sorts ( tape/ry1 :e!r wr\ght 9 ,engl& or abroad4 ,?us is x1 we ?9k1 t ^? f9e hang+s = ! *oir ( ,cant]bury ,ca!dral1 n[ at ,aix-en-,prov5ce1 ?\gh made at home1 p]haps too by 8 own monks1 & giv5 to t *ur* by ,prior ,gold/on1 ,a4,d4 #aeie1 are spok5 ( z1 n inde$ f ,arras1 b arras-"w--8pannos pul*]rimos op]e de arysse subtilit] intextos40#cef ,arras is b "o among sev]al o!r t]ms by :i*1 dur+ ! middle ages1 tape/ry 0 call$4 ,f ! ,s>ac5s1 x is likely ,we/]n ,europe le>n$ ! art3 at all ev5ts its e>lie/ "n 9 ,*ri/5dom 0 ,s>ac5ic "w--8opus ,s>ac5icum0--& z our tea*]s1 we too wr\ght 9 a l[ or horizontal loom4 ,! artizans ( ,france & ,fl&]s 7 ! fir/ to br+ =w>ds ! upright or v]tical frame1 aft]w>ds kn[n abroad z 8de haute lisse10 9 contradi/9ction to ! l[ or horizontal frame call$ 8de basse lisse40 ,^? :o w5t on ) ! latt] unimprov$ loom1 ?\gh ?or\gh good ,*ri/ians1 came to be kn[n1 9 ! trade1 z ,s>ac5s1 = keep+ to ! me?od ( _! paynim tea*]s2 & _! produce1 ,s>ac5ic4 ,9 ye> #acci ,john de ,croisettes1 a ,s>ac5-tape/ry work]1 liv+ at ,arras1 sells to ! ,duke ( ,t\ra9e a piece ( gold ,s>ac5ic tape/ry figur$ ) ! /ory ( ,*>lema9e3 8,jean de ,croisettes1 tapissi] ,s>raz9ois demeurant ,arras1 v5d au ,duc de ,t\ra9e un tapis ,s>raz9ois or de l'hi/oire de ,*>lema9e40#ceg ,soon h[ev] ! high frame put out ( use ! l[ "o2 & among ! _m pieces ( tape/ry belong+ to ,philippe ,duke ( ,b\rgogne & ,brabant1 v _m are especially ent]$ z ( ! high frame1 & "o ( !m is ?us describ$3--8ung grant tapiz de haulte lice1 sauz or1 de l'i/oire du duc ,guillaume de ,norm&ie comm5t il conqui/ ,englet]re40#ceh #cef ,anglia ,sacra1 t4 i4 p4 #adh4 #ceg ,vois91 p4 #d4 #ceh ,les ,ducs de ,b\rgogne1 p> le ,comte de ,lab\re1 t4 ii4 p4 #bgj4 ,) ! upright1 z ) ! flat frame1 ! workman w5t ! same road to 8 lab\rs2 b1 9 ei!r ( ^! ways1 _h to grope 9 ! d>k a great deal on 8 pa?4 ,9 bo?1 he 0 oblig$ to put 9 ! ?reads on ! back or wrong side ( ! piece foll[+ 8 sket* z be/ he c\ld beh9d ! fix+s or w>p4 ,z ! face 0 d[nw>d 9 ! flat frame he _h no means ( look+ at x to correct a fault4 ,9 ! upright frame he might g 9 front1 & ) 8 own do+s 9 op5 view on "o h&1 & ! orig9al design full be=e him on ! o!r1 he c\ld m5d z he w5t on1 /ep by /ep1 ! smalle/ mi/ake1 7 x b a s+le ?read4 ,put side by side1 :5 done1 ! pieces f ! upright frame 71 9 beauty & p]fection1 f> beyond ^? t _h come f ! flat "o4 ,9 :at t sup]iority consi/$ we d n "k ) c]titude1 = n "o s+le flat sample1 truly su*1 is recognizable f evid5ce )9 our rea*4 ,to u x seems t ! ,s>ac5ic "w 0 9 texture light & ?91 s t x might be1 z x (t5 01 employ$ = mak+ ve/m5ts !mselves1 or sew$ in/ead ( ne$lework embroid]$ on ^? liturgical appliances4 ,9 ! inv5tory ( ,/4 ,paul's1 ,london1 ,a4,d4 #abie1 m5tion is made ( x ?us3 8,duo amicti vet]es quorum unus de op]e ,s>ac5o40#cei 8,/ola de op]e ,s>ac5o40#cfj 8,ve/im5tum de op]e ,s>ac5o40#cfa 8,tunica et ,dalmatica de indico s5dato af=ciato cum bordura op]is ,s>ac5i40#cfb 8,quatuor (f]toria de rubeo s]ico quorum duo hab5t extremitates de op]e ,s>ac5o40#cfc #cei ,dugdale1 p4 #cai4 #cfj ,ib4 p4 #cai4 #cfa ,ib4 p4 #cbj4 #cfb ,ib4 p4 #cbb4 #cfc ,ib4 p4 #cbd4 ,( ! tape/ries 9 ?is collection1 p]haps ,nos4 #abif1 p4 #bif1 & #adfe1 p4 #bih1 may be ( ! s-call$ ,s>ac5ic k9d1 because wr\ght 9 ! l[ flat loom1 or1 8de basse lisse10 :ile all ! re/ are assur$ly ( ! 8dehaute lisse10 or done 9 ! upright frame4 ,:5 ! illum9ators ( ,,mss4 began--& x 0 mo/ly 9 ,fl&]s--to put 9 gold5 %ad+s all ov] _! pa9t+1 _! fell[-c\ntrym51 ! tape/ry-work]s1 did ! same4 ,su* a mann]1 9 consequ5ce1 _c be reli$ on z any crit]ion :]eby to judge ( ! exact place :]e any specim5 ( tape/ry _h be5 wr\ght1 or to tell its precise age4 ,to "w figures on a gold5 gr\nd1 & to %ade g>m5ts1 build+s1 & l&scapes ) gold1 are two diff]5t ?+s4 ,^u sev]al pieces "h gold ?read has be5 v pl5tifully us$1 b ! metal is ( s debas$ a quality t x has become almo/ black4 ,= ,*ur* decoration & h\sehold furniture ! use ( tape/ry1 bo? "h & abroad1 0--nay1 on ! ,cont95t /ill is--v great4 ,! _m l>ge pieces1 mo/ly ( a scriptural "*1 provid$ by ,c>d9al ,wolsey = 8 palace at ,hampton ,c\rt1 7 v f9e4 ,! mo/ beautiful collection 9 ! _w--! ,arazzi--n[ 9 ! ,vatican at ,rome1 may be judg$ ( by look+ at a few ( ! orig9al c>toons at pres5t 9 ! ,museum1 drawn & col\r$ by ,raffael's own h&4 ,duke ,cosimo tri$ to set up tape/ry "w at ,flor5ce1 b did n succe$4 ,lat]1 ,rome produc$ "s good ?+s2 among o!rs1 ! f9e copy ( ,da ,v9ci's ,la/ ,supp] /ill hung up on ,maundy ,?ursday4 ,engl& h]self made l attempts--fir/ at ,mortlake1 !n ye>s aft]w>ds 9 ,london1 at ,soho4 ,works f ^! two e/abli%m5ts may be met )4 ,at ,nor?umb]l& ,h\se !re is a room all hung ) l>ge pieces ( tape/ry wr\ght at ,soho1 & = t place1 9 ! ye> #ageh4 ,! designs 7 done by ,francesco ,zuc*]elli1 & consi/ ( l&scapes compos$ ( hills cr[n$ "h & !re ) ! /&+ ru9s ( temples1 or /rew$ ) brok5 columns1 among :i* are w&]+ & amus+ !mselves gr\ps ( c\ntry folks4 ,mortlake & ,soho 7 failures4 ,n s ! ,gobel9s at ,p>is1 z may be obs]v$ 9 ! beautifully execut$ specim5s 9 ! ,museum4 ,z n[1 s 9 ages gone by1 pieces ( tape/ry 7 laid d[n = c>pet+4 ,9 _m ( our old-fa%ion$ h\ses--9 ! c\ntry 9 p>ticul>--good samples ( ,flemi% tape/ry may be f\nd4 ,close to ,london1 ,holl& ,h\se is adorn$ ) "s curi\s specim5s1 especially 9 ! rais$ /yle4 ,imitat$ tape/ry--if pa9t+s on canvas may be s call$--exi/$ "h hundr$s ( ye>s ago "u ! "n ( 8/ayn$ clo?10 & ! work]s ( x 7 embodi$ into a ,london civic gild4 ,( ?is 8/ayn$ clo?0 we h lately f\nd hang+s ^u ! walls ( a d9+-room 9 "o mansion2 9 ano!r ornam5t+1 ) great effect1 ! top ( a /air-case4 ,at ! beg9n+ ( ! sixte5? c5tury ,exet] ,ca!dral _h sev]al pieces ( old pa9t$ or 8/ayn$0 clo?3 8i pannus vet]atus depictus cum ymag9ibus ,sancti ,&ree 9 m$io et ,petri et ,pauli ex lat]ibus2 i front /ayn$ cum crucifixo1 ,m>ia et ,johanne1 ,petro et ,paulo2 viij p>vi panni l9ei /ayn$1 c40#cfd ,! v great use at t "t ( su* articles 9 h\sehold furniture may be witness$ 9 ! w1 ,a4,d4 #aejc1 ( ,ka!r9e ,lady ,ha/+s1 :o bequea?s1 besides sev]al o!r su* pieces1 8an old hang9 ( c\nt]feit arres ( ,knollys1 :i* n[ hange? 9 ! hall1 & all su* hangy+s ( old bawdekyn1 or lyn5 paynt$ z n[ hang 9 ! *appell40#cfe #cfd ,ed4 ,oliv]1 p4 #cei4 #cfe ,te/am5ta ,vetu/a1 ii4 #dec4 ,,c>pets are some:at ak9 to tape/ry1 & ?\gh ! use ( !m may p]haps be n s anci5t1 yet is v old4 ,"h1 aga91 to ! p ( ,asia1 mu/ we look = ! f9e/ z well z e>lie/ examples ( ?is textile4 ,few are ! m$ival specim5s ( x any:]e1 & we are glad to recomm5d att5tion to two pieces ( t p]iod =tunately 9 ! collection1 ,no4 #hfdi1 p4 #bdh1 ( ! f\rte5? c5tury1 & ,no4 #hceg1 p4 #bji1 ( ! sixte5?1 bo? ( ,spani% make4 ,z ev5 ! ante*amb]s ( our royal palaces1 s ! *ancels 9 mo/ ( our c\ntry p>i% *ur*es us$ to be /rew$ ) ru%es4 ,:51 h[ev]1 !y c\ld af=d x1 ! au?orities ( our ca!drals1 ev5 9 ,anglo-,saxon times1 s\ght to spread ! sanctu>y ) c>pets2 & at la/ old tape/ry came to be s employ$1 z n[ 9 ,italy4 ,among su* cov]+s = ! floor be=e ! alt>1 ,exet] _h a l>ge piece ( ,arras clo? figur$ ) ! life ( ! ,duke ( ,burgundy1 ! gift ( "o ( its bi%ops1 ,edmund ,lacy1 ,a4,d4 #adbj1 besides two l>ge c>pets1 "o be/[$ by ,bi%op ,nevill1 ,a4,d4 #adef1 ! o!r1 ( a *equ]$ patt]n1 by ,lady ,elizabe? ,c\rtney3 8,c>pet et panni coram alt>i /]n5di--i pannus de ,arys de hi/oria ,ducis ,burgundie--i l>ga c>peta1 c40#cff ,9 an e>li] inv5tory1 we f9d t among ! 8banc>ia10 or b5*-cov]+s1 9 ! *oir ( ! same ca!dral1 ,a4,d4 #acbg1 "o 0 a l>ge piece ( ,engli%-made tape/ry1 ) a frett$ patt]n--8unum tapetum magnum ,anglicanum frettatum40#cfg ,& we ?9k t z ! ,record ,commission goes on "u ! ,ma/] ( ! ,rolls1 to pr9t our anci5t hi/orians1 evid5ces w turn up %[+ t ! looms at "w 9 all our great mona/]ies1 among o!r webs1 wr\ght c>pets4 ,f exi/+ pr9t$ te/imony we "k t1 9 all likelihood1 su* mu/ h be5 ! practice at ,croyl&1 :]e ,abbot ,egelric1 ! second ( ! "n be/[$ be=e ! ye> #iib1 :5 he di$1 ^u 8 *ur*3 8two l>ge foot-clo?s 7s c>pets 7 !n call$7 wov5 ) lions to be laid out be=e ! high alt> on great fe/ivals1 & two %ort] ones trail$ all ov] ) fl[]s1 = ! fea/ days ( ! ,apo/les3 8,d$it etiam duo magna p$alia leonibus intexta1 pon5da ante magnum alt>e 9 fe/is pr9cipalibus et duo breviora floribus resp]sa pro fe/is ,apo/olorum40#cfh ,! quantity ( c>pet+ 9 our palaces may be se5 by ! way 9 :i* 8my lady ! que5's rooms 7 /rew$ ) !m #8:5 %e took h] *amb]4'0#cfi #cff ,ed4 ,oliv]1 p4 #cb4 #cfg ,ib4 p4 #cag4 #cfh ,+ulphi ,hi/4 ed4 ,savile1 p4 #eje1 b4 #cfi ,lel&'s ,collectanea1 t4 iv4 pp4 #agi1 #ahf1 c4 ,,section ,,iv4 ,:ile tell+ ( a coronation1 a royal m>riage1 ! que5's #8tak+ h] *amb]1' h] aft]-*ur*+1 a baptism1 a progress1 or a fun]al1 ! hi/orian or ! pa9t] _c br+ be=e 8 own m9d1 mu* less set =? to ours1 a fit idea ( ! circum/ances 9 ! spl5d\r %[n on any "o ( ^! imp]ial occasions1 unless he c see old samples ( ^? clo?s ( gold1 figur$ velvets1 curi\s embroid]y1 & silk5 /uffs1 su* z are ga!r$ 9 ?is collection1 & us$ to be worn ( old = ^? functions4 ,( ! _m valuable1 ?\gh indirect uses to :i* ?is curi\s collection ( textiles may1 on occasions1 be turn$1 a few !re are to :i* we call p>ticul> att5tion1 = ! ready help x is likely to af=d4 ,9 ! fir/ place1 to ,,! ,,hi/orian1 9 "s at lea/ ( 8 rese>*es1 z he n only writes ( blood%$ & ( w>s1 t make or unmake k+s1 b foll[s 8 c\ntrym5 9 private life ?r\gh _! sev]al ways onw>d to civilization & ! cultivation ( ! arts ( peace4 ,besides a t9y %r$ 7,no4 #fge1 p4 #f7 ( ! v ne$lework itself1 we h "h a col\r$ pla/]-ca/ ( "o ( ! figures 9 ! s-call$ ,bayeux ,tape/ry1 :i*1 among "s1 x has ( late be5 a fa%ion to look ^u z a great hi/oric docum5t1 because x 01 !y say1 work$ by no less a p]sonage ?an ,william's own que51 ,matilda1 help$ by h] h&maids4 ,its pres5t & mod]n title is altoge!r a misnom]4 ,x is ne$lework1 & no tape/ry4 ,n ,norm&y1 b ,engl&1 is mo/ likely to h be5 ! c\ntry2 n ,bayeux1 b ,london1 ! place :]e9 x 0 wr\ght4 ,probabilities =bid u f believ+ t ei!r ,matilda h]self1 or h] wait+ ladies1 ev] did a /it* on ?is canvas2 nay1 x is likely %e nev] z mu* z saw x4 ,co>se :ite l95 & common wor/$ w\ld nev] h be5 ! mat]ials :i* any que5 w\ld h *os5 = su* a "w by :i* h] husb&'s great a*ievem5t 0 to be celebrat$4 ,b ?ree wom5 are se5 ^u ! "w1 & ,matilda is n "o ( !m4 ,surely ! dulle/ c\rti] w\ld nev] h =gott5 su* an opportunity = a complim5t to 8 royal mi/ress by putt+ 9 h] p]son4 ,a piece1 n9ete5 in*es broad & two hundr$ & tw5ty-six feet long1 cr[d$ ) fight+ m5--"s on foot1 "s on horseback--) build+s & ca/les1 mu/ h tak5 mu* "t & busi$ _m h&s = its work+4 ,yet ( all ?is1 n\ght has ev] turn$ up 9 any notice ( ,matilda's life4 ,%e 0 n1 l ! ,anglo-,saxon ,m>g>et que5 ( ,scotl&1 kn[n to fill up h] "t amid/ h] maids ) ne$lework1 nor ev] /ood out a p>allel to an old] ,anglo-,saxon high-born lady1 ! noble lfl$a1 ( :om we n[ speak4 ,h] husb& 0 ! fam\s ,nor?umbrian *iefta91 ,bri?no?1 :o _h s (t5 f\ght & s sorely wor/$ ! invad+ ,danes1 by :om he 0 at la/ sla94 ,8 lov+ wife & h] wom5 wr\ght 8 de$s ( d>+ 9 ne$lework ^u a curta9 :i* %e gave to ! m9/] *ur* at ,ely1 :]e9 ! headless body ( h] ,bri?no? lay buri$3 8cort9am ge/is viri sui 7,bri?no?i7 intextam atque depictam 9 memoriam probitatis ejus1 huic ecclesi 7,eli5si7 donavit 7lfl$a740#cgj ,surely :5 lfl$a's h&iwork f\nd a *ronicl]1 t ( a que5 w\ld nev] h gone )\t "o4 ,moreov]1 _h su* a piece any-wise or ev] belong$ to ,william's wife1 we mu/ ?9k t1 in/ead ( be+ let to /ray away to ,bayeux1 t[>ds :i* place %e bore no p>ticul> affection1 %e w\ld h bequea!d x1 l o!r ?+s1 to h] belov$ *ur* at ,ca54 ,yet 9 h] w no notice ( x comes1 & ! only m5tion ( any ne$lework is ( two ,engli% specim5s1 "o a *asuble b\ght ( ,ald>et's wife at ,w9*e/]1 & a ve/m5t !n be+ wr\ght = h] 9 ,engl&3 8casulam quam apud ,w9toniam op]atur uxor ,ald]eti 444 atque aliud ve/im5tum quod op]atur 9 ,anglia10 bo? ( :i* %e leaves to ! ,*ur* ( ! ,holy ,tr9ity at ,ca54 #cgj ,hi/oria ,eli5sis1 ,lib4 ,secund4 ed4 ,/ew>t1 p4 #ahc4 ,b !re is ! tradition t x is ,matilda's do+4 ,true1 b x is b>ely a hundr$ ye>s old1 & its fir/ appe>ance 0 9 ! ye> #agcj or s3 tradition s "y goes !n = no?+4 ,:o !n got x work$1 & :y did x f9d its way to ,bayeux8 ,odo1 bi%op ( ,bayeux1 & own bro!r to ,william came himself1 &1 l o!r ri* & p[]ful ,norman ,lords1 br\ght vassals :o f\ght at ,ha/+s4 ,( all ! great *iefs1 b "o1 at mo/ b two1 are po9t$ out by "n on ?is piece4 ,odo1 h[ev]1 is figur$ 9 no less ?an ?ree ( its comp>tm5ts2 fur!rmore1 ?ree m5 q unkn[n to fame1 ,turold1 ,vital1 & ,wad>d1 receive z _m times z ! bi%op ?is same hon\rable di/9ction4 ,ri* & influ5tial 9 ,norm&y1 ,odo1 aft] be+ made ,e>l ( ,k5t by 8 victori\s bro!r1 became ri*] & m influ5tial 9 ,engl&2 h5ce ! ?ree above-m5tion$ individuals1 ! prelate's feudatories1 by _! ma/]'s fav\r1 got possession ( wide l&$ e/ates 9 _m p>ts ( ,engl&1 z appe>s f ,domesday4 ,com+ f ,bayeux itself1 & ow+ s]vice to its bi%op1 ?r\gh :om !y _h become ri* lords 9 ,engl&1 ^! ?ree m5 may h v naturally wi%$ to make a jo9t (f]+ to ! ca!dral ( _! native city4 ,h5ce !y _h ?is piece ( ne$lework done 9 ,london1 & on x caus$1 nei!r ,matilda nor any ( ! great *iefs ( ! ,norman exp$ition1 b in/ead1 ! bi%op ( ,bayeux & !mselves its citiz5s to be s conspicu\sly set =? ^u :at 0 meant to be1 = ,bayeux itself1 a memorial ( ! "p t ! bi%op & ?ree m5 ( ,bayeux _h tak5 9 ! ,norman conque/ ( ,engl&4 ,on second ?\ghts1 we look ^u ?is curi\s piece z ! "w ( ! e>ly "p ( ! twelf? c5tury1 p]haps z an (f]+ to ! new *ur* 7! old "o hav+ be5 burn$ d[n by our ,h5ry ,i4 ,a4,d4 #aajf7 ( ,bayeux1 z 9 measurem5t x exactly fits = hang+ bo? sides ( ! pres5t nave1 its orig9al z well z rec5t purpose4 ,9 future1 !n1 our writ]s may be l$ to use ) caution ?is s-call$ ,bayeux ,tape/ry1 z a docum5t contemporane\s ) ! ,norman conque/4 ,?\gh1 9 ! reign ( our ,h5ry ,,ii4 ,london 0 ! head city ( ?is k+dom1 & ! *ief home ( royalty1 "s read] may p]haps be />tl$ on he>+ t :ile its *ur*es 7 #abj1 ! inhabitants am\nt$ only to ! numb] ( #dj1jjj1 z we le>n f ,pet]1 its !n ar*deacon3 8nam quum s9t 9 illa civitate 7,lond95si7 quadra-g9ta millia hom9um1 atque c5tum et vig9ti ecclesi10 c4#cga--yet1 at t v "t1 ! capital ( ,sicily--,pal]mo--by itself 0 yield+ to its k+ a ye>ly rev5ue q equal 9 am\nt to ! :ole income ( ,engl&'s sov]eign1 z we are told by ,g]ald ,b>ry ! le>n$ ,wel% writ] !n liv+3 8,urbs et5im una ,sicili1 ,pal]nica scilicet1 plus c]ti r$ditus regi ,siculo s+ulis annis r$d]e solet1 quam ,anglorum regi nunc r$dit ,anglia tota40#cgb ,?is great weal? 0 ga!r$ to ,sicily by h] trade 9 silk5 textiles1 fir/ ) ! ,byzant9es & ! coa/s ( ,asia ,m9or & ,alex&ria1 :]e ^? /uffs 7 at ! "t wr\ght2 & secondly1 ) ,europe1 & ! products ( h] own looms some:at lat]4 ,_m ( ! pieces 9 ?is collection 7 wov5 at ,pal]mo & o!r cities 9 t isl&4 ,%e h]self 0 n ! lea/ consum] ( h] own indu/ry1 & ( ! pr(use employm5t ( silk = royal awn+s1 dur+ ! twelf? c5tury 9 ! k+dom ( ! two ,sicilies4 ,we h an example 9 ! silk5 t5t1 made = que5 ,joan1 & giv5 h] by h] husb& k+ ,william1 l>ge en\gh to hold two hundr$ knights sitt+ d[n to d9n]2 & :i*1 along ) h] *air ( gold1 & gold5 table twelve feet long & a foot & a-half wide1 h] bro!r1 our ,ri*>d ,i4 got back = 8 si/] f ,tancr$3 8,ipse 7,ri*>dus rex7 enim a rege ,tancr$o exigebat--ca!dram auream ad opus ejusdem ,johann de consuetud9e reg9>um illius regni et ad opus sui ipsius m5sam auream de longitud9e duodecim p$um1 et de latitud9e unius p$is et semis et quoddam t5torium de s]ico magnum adeo quod duc5ti milites 9 eo poss9t simul m&uc>e40#cgc ,among ! old copes1 dalmatics & *asubles :i*1 "o aft] ! o!r1 f9d _! way at la/ to collections su* z ?is1 mu/ ! hi/orian seek = :at rema9s ( ^? gorge\s robes worn at "s int]e/+ c]emony1 or on "s /irr+ occasion1 by p]sonages celebrat$ 9 our national annals4 ,= example1 along ) ! sev]al gifts be/[$ ^u ! *ur* ( ,ely1 by k+ ,edg>1 we f9d m5tion$ 8 mantle ( co/ly purple & gold1 ( :i* 0 made a ve/m5t3 8,enimv]o *lamydem suam de insigni purpura ad modum loric auro undique contextam illuc 7ecclesi ,eli5si7 contulit rex dg>us40#cgd ,( a :ole set ( mass ve/m5ts at ,w9dsor made out ( ! crimson & gold clo? p[d]$ ) birds1 once ! array worn by a royal pr9cess :5 %e 0 m>ri$1 we h already spok54 #cga ,petri ,bles5sis ,op]a1 ed4 ,giles1 t4 ii4 p4 #he4 #cgb ,g]aldi ,cambr5sis ,de ,in/ructione ,pr9cipum1 ed4 ,j4 ,s4 ,brew]1 p4 #afh4 #cgc ,rog4 ,hov$5 ,annal4 ed4 ,savile1 p4 #chd1 b4 #cgd ,hi/4 ,eli54 ,lib4 ,secund4 ed4 ,/ew>t1 p4 #afj4 ,que5 ,philippa gave to ,symon1 bi%op ( ,ely1 ! g[n %e wore at h] *ur*+ aft] ! bir? ( h] elde/ son ! ,black ,pr9ce4 ,! g>m5t 0 ( murrey-col\r$ velvet1 p[d]$ ) gold5 squirrels1 & s ample t x furni%$ =? ?ree copes = *oir use3 8,contulit sibi 7,symoni de ,monte ,acuto7 ,dom9a reg9a qu&am robam preciosam cum omnibus g>niam5tis de velvet murreo squirrillis aureis pulv]izato2 qua induta erat 9 die ,purificationis su po/ p>tum ,pr9cipis excell5tissimi ,dom9i ,edw>di filii sui primog5iti4 ,de quibus g>niam5tis tres cap efficiuntur10 c4#cge ,to ,/4 ,alban's ,abbey 0 s5t by ,elizabe? ,lady ,beau*amp ! spl5did mantle made ( clo? ( gold l9$ ) crimson velvet :i* ,h5ry ,v4 _h on z he rode 9 /ate on horseback ?r\gh ,london1 ! day be=e 8 coronation4 ,also ano!r g[n ( gre5 & gold velvet out ( bo? ( :i* ve/m5ts 7 made3 8,elizabe? ,beau*amp muli] nobilis 444 contulit mona/]io ,s4 ,albani qu&am togam pretiosissimam auro textam duplicatam cum panno de velvetto rubeo resp]so cum rosis aureis qu quondam erat indum5tum regis ,h5rici qu9ti dum regalit] equit>et p] ,londonias pridie ante coronationem suam4 ,item d$it et aliam g\nam de viridi velvetto auro texto unde fi]i posset integrum ve/im5tum qu similit] fuit ejusdem regis40#cgf ,naturally wi%ful to "k some?+ ab\t su* co/ly /uffs1 ! hi/orian w h to come hi!r1 :]e he may f9d specim5s 9 ! gorge\s velvet & gold *asubles 9 ?is collection4 ,:il/ "h p]*ance 8 eye may w&] t[>d su* pieces z ^? ,nos4 #acaj1 p4 #ec1 & #hfbd1 p4 #bci1 :]eon he sees figur$1 /ags ) tall bran*+ horns1 c\*ant1 *a9$1 upturn+ _! antl]$ heads to sunbeams d>t+ d[n ^u !m amid a %[] ( ra92 & b5ea? ! /ags are eagles2 p4 #bci4 ,?is ,sicilian textile1 wov5 ab\t ! end ( ! f\rte5? c5tury1 br+s to 8 m9d t bronze cumb5t figure ( a k+ 9 ,we/m9/] ,abbey4 ,x is ( ,ri*>d ,,ii4 made = him be=e 8 d[nfal1 & by two copp]smi?s ( ,london1 ,ni*olas ,brok] & ,godfrey ,pre/4 ,?is effigy1 once f9ely gilt1 is z rem>kable = its beautiful workman%ip1 z = ! elaborate mann] 9 :i* ! cloak & kirtle worn by ! k+ are diap]$ all ov] ) ! patt]n 7n[ hid "u coats ( dirt7 on t silk5 /uff out ( :i* ^? g>m5ts mu/ h be5 cut = 8 p]sonal we> :ile liv+2 & x consi/s ( a sprig ( ! ,planta g5e/a1 ! humble broom plant--! haughty ,plantag5ets' device--along ) a c\*ant h>t *a9$ & gaz+ /raight =w>ds1 & above x a cl\d ) rays d>t+ up f beh9d4 ,) ,edw>d ,,iii4 ,ri*>d's gr&fa!r1 8sunbeams issu+ f a cl\d0 0 a fav\rite cognizance4 ,! :ite h>t he got f ! :ite h9d1 ! cognizance ( 8 "m ,joan1 ! fair maid ( ,k5t1 & r5d]$ rem>kable by ! unfl9*+ /eadfa/ness ( ! fai?ful ,j5ico 9 we>+ x z 8 royal ma/]'s badge aft] ,ri*>d's d[nfal4 ,sometimes1 did t k+ take z a device a :ite falcon1 =1 at a t\rnam5t held by him at ,w9dsor1 =ty ( 8 knights came clo!d 9 gre5 ) a :ite falcon on ! /uff4 ,dur+ a foppi% reign1 ,ri*>d 0 ! greate/ fop4 ,:5 he sat to ^? two ,london citiz5s = 8 monum5t1 :i* !y s ably wr\ght1 & :i* /ill is at ,we/m9/]1 our own belief is t he wore a dress ( silk :i* _h be5 expressly wov5 = him at ,pal]mo4 ,we ?9k1 too1 t ! c\ple ( specim5s "h1 ,nos4 #acaj1 p4 #ec1 & #hfbd1 p4 #bci1 7 orig9ally wr\ght 9 ,sicily1 aft] designs f ,engl&1 & = ! c\rt ( ,ri*>d3 !y q answ] ! p]iod1 & %[ ^? fav\rite devices1 ! *a9$ h>t1 sunbeams issu+ f a cl\d1 ! falcon or eagle--a gr\p 9 itself q peculi> to t mon>*4 ,= ! slight v>iations 9 ^! /uffs f ^? ^u ! ,we/m9/] monum5t1 we w acc\nt1 a little fur!r on1 :ile treat+ ! subject ( symbolism1 ,section ,,vii4 #cge ,anglia ,sacra1 ed4 ,:>ton1 t4 i4 p4 #fej4 #cgf ,mon4 ,anglic4 ed4 ,caley1 t4 ii4 p4 #bbc4 ,! seeml9ess1 n to say com=t1 ( private life1 0 improv$ by ! use1 aft] sev]al ways1 ( textiles4 ,let ! hi/orian contra/ ! mann]s1 ev5 9 a royal palace dur+ ! twelf? c5tury1 ) ^? t are n[ foll[$ 9 e tradesman's home4 ,!n1 ri* b>ons & titl$ c\rti]s w\ld sprawl amid ! /raw & ru%es1 /rew$ 9 ! h\ses ev5 ( ! k+1 ^u ! floor 9 e room1 :i*1 z ,w5dov] says3 8junco sol5t domorum are op]iri20#cgg &1 platt+ knots ) ! litt]1 fl+ !m ) a gibe at ! man :o _h be5 slight$ by ! pr9ce4#cgh ,n q a hundr$ ye>s lat]1 :5 ,eleanor ( ,ca/ile came to ,london = h] m>riage ) our fir/ ,edw>d1 %e f\nd h] lodg+s furni%$1 "u ! directions ( ! ,spani% c\rti]s :o _h arriv$ be=e h]1 ) hang+s & curta9s ( silk ar\nd ! walls1 & c>pets spread ^u ! gr\nd4 ,?is sorr[$ "s ( our p2 m ( !m giggl$ at ! ?\ght t "s ( ^! co/ly ?+s 7 laid d[n to be walk$ ^u1 z we le>n f ,mat!w ,p>is3 8,cum v5isset illa nurus nobilissima 7,ali5ora7 ad hospitium sibi assignatum inv5it illud 444 holos]icis palliis et tapetiis1 ad similitud9em templi app5sis2 etiam pavim5tum aulis r$imitum1 ,hispanis1 secundum patri su =te consuetud9em hoc procurantibus40#cgi ,n[1 our h\ses h a c>pet = e room z well z on its /air-case1 & n a few ( our %ops are c>pet$ ?r\gh\t4 #cgg ,t4 iii4 p4 #aji4 #cgh ,vita ,s4 ,?om1 auct4 ,edu>do ,grim4 ed4 ,giles1 p4 #dg4 #cgi ,hi/4 ,ang4 9 ,a4,d4 #abee1 p4 #fab1 col4 b4 ,! ,emp]or ,aurelian's wife once tri$ to coax out ( h] imp]ial husb& a silk cloak--only "o silk cloak4 8,no10 0 ! answ]2 8,i c\ld nev] ?9k10 said t "l ( ! e>?1 8( buy+ su* a ?+2 x sells = its weight 9 gold20 z we %[$ be=e1 p4 xix4 ,n[1 h[ev]1 little does ! woman ( ! n9ete5? c5tury suspect1 :5 %e goes =? prank$ out 9 all h] brav]y ( dress1 t an ,egyptian ,cleopatra equally ) a ,roman empress w\ld h look$ ) a grudg+ eye ^u h] gay silk g[n & sat9 ribbons2 or t1 z late z ?ree hundr$ ye>s ago1 ev5 h] silk5 hose w\ld h be5 an (f]+ wor?y ( an ,engli% que5's 7,elizabe?'s7 acceptance4 ,little1 too1 does t tall "y man :o1 z he /&s beh9d ! lady's *>iot go+ to a ,draw+-room1 ev] & anon lets drop a /eal?y b complaisant look ^u 8 own legs %9+ 9 s(t blu%+ silk--ah6 little does he dream t 9 t old palace be=e him !re once dwelt a k+ 7,james ,i47 ( ,great ,brita91 :o w\ld h envi$ him 8 bright new /ock+s2 & :o1 be=e he came to ! ?rone ( ,engl&1 0 fa9 to we> "s borr[$ ones1 :5 9 ,scotl& he _h to receive an ,engli% ambassador4 ,if we take ?is loan1 = ! nonce1 f ! ,e>l ( ,m> to 8 royal ma/]1 to h be5 z %apeless & befrill$ z are ! yell[ pair 7,blue ,coat ,s*ool boys' z yet7 once ,que5 ,elizabe?'s1 n[ among ! curiosities at ,hatfield2 !n 7 ^? /ock+s--! fir/ wov5 9 ,engl&1 & pres5t$ by ,"l ,hunsdon--funny ?+s1 inde$4 ,?\gh s small a ?+1 !re is 9 ?is collection a little cu%ion1 ,no4 #ijdg1 p4 #bgc1 :i* be>s 9 x mu* m ?an :at %[s itself at fir/1 & is likely to awak5 ! curiosity ( "s :o may h h]eaft] to write ab\t ! do+s ( our ,c\rt 9 ! e>ly "p ( ! sev5te5? c5tury4 ,?is cu%ion is ne$le-wr\ght & figur$ all ov] ) animals1 armorial be>+s1 fl[]s1 & love-knots1 toge!r ) ! lett]s ,i & ,r royally cr[n$ ) a /rawb]ry leaf1 & ! /rawb]ry fruit close by ea* ( ^? capitals1 z well z pl5tifully spr9kl$ all ov] ! "w4 ,9 ,scotl&1 sev]al noble families1 :e!r !y spell _! "n ,,fras] or ,,fraz]1 use z a cant+ *>ge--8arme *e cantano0--( ! ,italians2 ! ,fr5* 8frasi]10 or /rawb]ry1 leaf$1 fl[]$1 fruct$ prop]2 ! buck too1 figur$ "h1 comes 9 or ab\t _! armorial %ields4 ,h5ce !n we are fairly w>rant$ 9 ?9k+ t x 0 a ,fras]'s lady h& :i* wr\ght ?is small1 b elaborate cu%ion1 mo/ likely z a gift1 & ) a /rong mean+ ab\t x1 to our ,k+ ,james ,i41 ^: unicorn is n =gott5 "h2 &1 9 all probability1 :il/ %e also wi%$ to indicate t an ,s 0 ! fir/ lett] 9 h] own baptismal "n4 ,sir5 too is ano!r t]m = m]maid--t emblem s conspicu\sly figur$ by ! lady's side4 ,all ?is1 ) ! love-knot s pl5tifully broadca/ & int]wov5 aft] _m ways1 & spr9kl$ ev]y:]e z su* a fav\rite device1 p]haps may help "s future biograph] ( ,james to ?r[ a light ov] a few hidd5 passages 9 ! life ( t sov]eign4 ,human hair1 or some?+ v l x1 0 put into ! embroid]y on p>ts ( ?is small cu%ion4 ,on ! "u side1 to ! left1 /&s a lady ) h] hair ly+ 9 rolls ab\t h] =ehead4 ,aft] look+ well into !m1 ?r\gh a glass1 ^! rolls seem to be real human hair--may be ! lady's own--x is yell[4 ,pe]+ n>r[ly into ^? r$ roses close by1 se$$ & b>b$1 ! se$$ "p or middle is f\nd to be work$ ) two di/9ct sorts ( human hair--"o ! v same z ! gold5 hair on ! lady's br[1 ! o!r ( a light s&y %ade3 c\ld ?is h be5 k+ ,james's8 ,8 son1 ,*>les ,i41 us$1 z x w\ld seem1 to s5d f 8 prison locks ( 8 own hair to "s few ( ! g5try fav\rable to 8 cause1 s t ! ladies ( t h\se1 :ile work+ 8 royal portraiture 9 col\r$ silks1 might be able to d ! head ( hair on x1 9 ! v hair itself ( t sov]eign4 ,"o or two ( su* wr\ght lik5esses ( k+ ,*>les 71 n long ago1 %[n 9 ! exhibition ( m9iatures :i* took place 9 ?is ,museum4 ,= v]ify+ passages 9 e>ly z well z m$ival times1 little does ! hi/orian ?9k ( f9d+ 9 ^! specim5s su* a help = ! purpose4 ,qu9tus ,curtius tells u1 t1 rea*+ ,india1 ! ,greeks "u ,alex&] f\nd !re a fam\s bre$ ( dogs = lion-hunt+ m especially4 ,on behold+ a wild bea/ !y hu% _! yelp+s1 & hold _! prey by ! tee? ) s mu* /ubbornness t soon] ?an let g _! bite !y w\ld suff] "o ( _! own limbs to be cut (f3 8,nobiles ad v5&um canes 9 ea regione sunt3 latratu ab/9]e dicuntur1 quum vid]unt f]am1 leonibus maxime1 infe/i10 c4#chj ,su* is ! animal n[ kn[n z ! *eetah1 :i*1 z ( old s all ?r\gh ! middle ages1 up to ! pres5t "t1 has be5 tra9$ ev]y:]e 9 ,p]sia & ov] ,india = hunt+ purposes2 & call$ by our c\ntryman1 ,sir ,john ,m&eville1 a 8papyonn10 z we h notic$ 9 ?is catalogue1 p4 #agh4 ,?is f>-fam$ hunt+-dog ( ,qu9tus ,curtius1 n[ kn[n z ! *eetah or hunt+-lion1 may be (t5 met ) on silk5 textiles "h f ,asiatic looms1 especially 9 ,nos4 #gjhc1 p4 #acf2 #gjhf1 p4 #acg2 #hbcc1 p4 #aed2 #hbhh1 p4 #agh4 #chj ,lib4 ix4 cap4 i4 sect4 #f4 ,,section ,v4--,,liturgy4 ,= a sight ( "s liturgical appliances :i*1 ?\gh once s common & ev]y:]e employ$ h become r>e f hav+ "o by "o dropp$ into disuse1 rituali/s1 =eign ones among ! re/1 w h to come hi!r4 ,a few m ( su* articles1 ?\gh /ill 9 common use1 are rem>kable = ! antiquity or ! co/l9ess ( ^? /uffs out ( :i* !y happ5 to be made4 ,= its age1 & ! beauty ( its ne$lework1 ! ,syon cope is 9 itself a rem>kable treasure1 :ile its emblazon$ orphreys1 l ! ve/m5ts on ! p]son ( a ,p]cy 9 ,bev]ley m9/]1 make x1 at lea/ accord+ to pres5t cu/om1 s+ul>4 ,sev]al *asubles "h s notewor?y = _! gorge\sness1 h _! fell[s equal 9 spl5d\r1 else:]e2 b 9 ?is museum are a few articles :i* till n[ we might h s\ght = 9 va9 ?r\gh\t ,*ri/5dom 9 any o!r private or public collection4 ,su* liturgical boxes z ^? two--,no4 #eieh1 p4 #aab1 & ,no4 #hcbg1 p4 #aic--;are ( ! k9d kn[n ( old z ! 8capsella cum s]ico dec5t] ornata0--a little box beseem+ly fitt$ up ) silk--( ! m$ival writ]s2 or ! 8capsula corporalium0--! box 9 :i* are kept ! corporals or squ>e pieces ( f9e l951 a f9e m$ival specim5 ( :i* is "h1 ,no4 #hcbi1 p4 #aie1 ( ! rubrics :i*1 to ?is day1 require its employm5t = a p>ticul> s]vice1 dur+ holy week4 ,l its use ! "n ( ?is appliance is v old1 & bo? are spok5 ( 9 ^? anci5t 8,ord9es ,romani10 9 ! fir/ ( :i*1 drawn up n[ m ?an a ?\s& ye>s ago1 x is direct$3 8tunc duo acoly?i t55tes capsas cum ,sanctis ap]tas1 c420#cha & aga91 9 ano!r 8,ordo10 writt5 out "s little "t be=e ,a4,d4 #aadc1 a "p ( ! rubric = ,good ,friday requires ! ,pope to g b>efoot dur+ ! procession 9 :i* a c>d9al c>ries ! ,ho/ consecrat$ ! day be=e1 & pres]v$ 9 ! corporals' *e/ or box3 8discalceatus 7papa7 p]git cum processione4444 ,quidam c>d9alis honorifice portat corpus ,dom9i prt]iti diei cons]vatum1 9 capsula corporalium40#chb ,ab\t ! mass ( ! presanctifi$1 be=e ! beg9n+ ( :i* ?is procession took z x yet takes place1 we h said a few words at pp4 #aab1 #aac4 ,:at is meant by ! ^w 8corporal10 we h expla9$1 p4 #aid4 ,"h 9 ,engl&1 su* small wood5 boxes cov]$ ) silks & velvets ri*ly embroid]$1 7 once employ$ = ! same liturgical uses4 ,! ,exet] inv5tories specify !m ?us3 8unum repositorium ligneum pro corporalibus co-op]tum cum saccis de s]ico20#chc 8tria corporalia 9 casa lignea co-op]ta cum panno s]ico1 op]ata cum div]sis armis40#chd #cha ,ed4 ,mabillon1 ,museum ,italicum1 t4 ii4 p4 #h4 #chb ,ib4 p4 #acg4 #chc ,oliv]'s ,exet] ,ca!dral1 p4 #cad4 #chd ,ib4 p4 #cbg4 ,good ,friday br+s to m9d a religi\s practice foll[$ :]ev] ! ,greek ritual is obs]v$1 & ! appliance = :i*1 ,no4 #hbgh1 p4 #agj1 we h !re spok5 ( at su* l5g? z to save u "h any fur!r notice ( ?is int]e/+ k9d ( frontal1 ^u :i* is %[n our dead ,"l ly+ /ret*$ out ^u ! s9don or w9d+-%eet4 ,( ! ,cyrillian "* 9 :i* ! ,greek s5t5ces ^u x are writt51 we %all h a m fitt+ opportunity = speak+ a little fur!r on4 ,at ,rome1 9 ! ,pope's *apel1 ! frontal set be=e ! alt> = ! function ( ,maundy ,?ursday1 is ( gold clo? figur$1 amid o!r subjects suitable to ! "t1 ) our ,"l ly+ dead betwe5 two angels :o are uphold+ ,8 head1 z we le>n f ! indu/ri\s ,cancelli]i's description1 9 8 8,settimana ,santa nella cappella pontificia40#che ,9 ,greece may be /ill f\nd sev]al *ur*es built ) a dome1 all ar\nd :i* is figur$1 9 pa9t+ or 9 mosaics1 :at is !re kn[n z & call$ ! 8,div9e ,liturgy10 aft] ?is mann]4 ,on ! ea/]n side1 & be=e an alt>1 b fac+ ! we/1 /&s our ,"l1 rob$ z a patri>*1 ab\t to (f] up ! mass4 ,! re/ ( ! r\nd 9 ! cupola is fill$ ) a cr[d ( angels1--"s array$ 9 *asubles l prie/s1 "s z deacons1 b ea* be>+ 9 8 h&s ei!r "o ( ! sev]al ve/m5ts or "s liturgical vessel or appliance ne$$ at ! celebration ( ! sacr$ my/]ies1--all walk+1 z x 71 to ! spot :]e /&s ! div9e pontiff4 ,b amid ?is angel-?rong may be se5 six ( ^! w+$ m9i/]s :o are c>ry+ betwe5 !m a s9don exactly figur$ z is ! "o ( :i* we are n[ speak+4 ,h[1 accord+ to ! ,greek ritual1 ?is subject ought to be done1 is giv5 9 ! ,pa9t]'s ,guide1 edit$ by ,didron4#chf ,?\gh ( yore z n[ a some:at simil> c]emonial 0 always obs]v$ accord+ to ! ,lat9 rite1 9 c>ry+ 8 ve/m5ts to a bi%op :5 he pontificat$1 nev] 9 su* a procession "h1 9 ! we/1 0 any frontal or s9don borne1 z 9 ! ea/4 ,) reg>d to 8r$0 z ! m\rn+ col\r1 9 ! s9don1 our own old ,engli% use jo9$ x ) 8black0 ^u ve/m5ts especially int5d$ to be worn 9 s]vices = ! dead4 ,= especial use on ,good ,friday ,bi%op ,gr&ison gave to 8 ca!dral 7,exet]7 a black silk *asuble1 ! r$ orphrey at ! back ( :i* _h embroid]$ on x our ,"l hang+ ^u a gre5 cross3 8j casula de nigro s]ico1 pro ,die ,p>as*ive1 cum j orfrey quasi rubii coloris1 cum crucifixo p5d5te 9 viridi cruce1 ex dono ,johannis ,gr&issono20#chg & 9 ! same docum5t1 among ! black copes & *asubles1 we f9d t !y _h _! orphreys made ( r$3 8cape nigre cum casulis--j casula de nigro velvete cum rubeo velvete 9 le orfrey4 ij tuniculi ejusdem panni et secte4 iij cape ejusdem panni et secte40#chh #che ,p4 #eh4 #chf ,manuel d',iconographie ,*reti5ne1 pp4 xxxvi4 #bbi4 #chg ,oliv]1 p4 #cdd4 #chh ,ib4 p4 #cdi4 ,at ,l9coln ca!dral !re 7 8a *esable ( black clo? ( gold ( bawdk9 ) a r$ orphrey1 c42 a black cope ( clo? ( silv] ) an orphrey ( r$ velvet broid]$ ) fl[]s1 c42 a black cope ( camlet broid]$ ) fl[]s ( woodb9e ) an orphrey ( r$ clo? ( gold10 c42 two copes ( black sat9 ) orphreys ( r$ damask1 broid]$ ) fl[]s ( gold1 hav+1 9 ! back1 s\ls ris+ to _! doom1 c41 besides o!r ve/m5ts ( ! same k9d4#chi ,gre51 sometimes along ) r$1 sometimes tak+ ! latt]'s place 9 ! orphreys1 may be se5 on "s ( our old ve/m5ts4 ,^? two pyx-clo?s at ,no4 #hcdb1 p4 #bjb1 & ,no4 #hfia1 p4 #bfj1 w h an int]e/ = ! /ud5t ( m$ival liturgy z we h already po9t$ out1 p4 #bjb4 ,:ile 9 ,italy ! cu/om1 dur+ ! middle ages at lea/1 nev] prevail$1 "h 9 ,engl& z well z all ov] ,france1 & sev]al c\ntries on ! ,cont95t1 x did1 ( keep+ ! ,eu*>i/ "u "o =m1 hung up ov] ! high alt> b5ea? a beautiful canopy )9 a pyx ( gold1 silv]1 ivory1 or enamel1 & mantl$ ) a f9e l95 embroid]$ clo? or veil4 ,at pres5t ?is 8velum pyidis0 ov]spread+ ! ciborium or pyx 9 ! tab]nacle1 is ( silk4 ,9 old5 days ! veil = ! pyx 01 "h 9 ,engl&1 beautifully embroid]$ ) gold5 ?read & col\r$ silks1 & usually c>ri$ ?ree cr[ns ( gold or silv]1 z is %[n 9 ! woodcut1 8,*ur* ( our ,fa!rs10#cij & (t5 m5tion$ 9 _m ( our national docum5ts :i*1 )\t "s su* notice z ?is1 c\ld n be rightly und]/ood4 ,among ! ?+s once belong+ to ,ri*>d ,,ii4 9 ,hav]=d ca/le & s5t by ! %]iff ( ,h]e=d to ! ex*equ]1 at ! beg9n+ ( ,h5ry ,,iv4's reign1 are ?ree cr[ns ( gold1 a gold cup1 & "o ( ! pyx-veils l ^!3 8iij corones d'or p\r le ,corps ,ihu ,cry/4 i c\pe d'or p\r le ,corps ,ihu ,cry/4 i t[ayll ove 7avec7 i longe p>ure de mesure la suyte40#cia #chi ,mona/icon ,anglicanum1 t4 viii4 p4 #abhe1 ed4 ,caley4 #cij ,t4 iv4 p4 #bjf4 #cia ,! ,anci5t ,kal5d>s & ,inv5tories ( ,8 ,maje/y's ,ex*equ]1 t4 iii4 p4 #cfa4 ed4 ,palgrave4 ,by diff]5t p1 & at v>i\s p]iods1 a v>iety ( names 0 giv5 to ?is f9e l95 cov]+4 ,describ+ 9 8 w1 "o made 9 ?is c\ntry & s valuable = its ,engli% ne$lework1 a bi%op ( ,t\rnay 7see be=e p4 xcix7 calls x a corporal3 9 ! inv5tory ( ?+s tak5 f ,dr4 ,caius1 & 9 ! college ( 8 own f\nd+ at ,cambridge1 are3 8corporas clo!s1 ) ! pix & #8s9don' & canopie10 c4#cib ,?is v>iety 9 nom5clature d\btless l$ writ]s unacqua9t$ ) ritual matt]s to /ate t be=e ,m>y ,que5 ( ,scots b5t h] head ^u ! block1 %e _h a 8corporal10 prop]ly s call$1 b\nd ov] h] eyes4 ,:at to our seem+ ?is b&age really 01 mu/ h be5 a l>ge piece ( f9e l95 embroid]$ by h] own h&s--,m>y wr\ght mu* ) h] ne$le1 z specim5s ( h] do+ yet rema9 at ,*atswor?1 & at ,grey/ock %[--meant =1 p]haps too once us$ z a pyx-clo?1 & n an alt> corporal4 #cib ,munk's ,roll ( ! ,royal ,college ( ,physicians1 t4 i4 p4 #cg4 ,:il/ ^! pages 7 go+ ?r\gh ! press1 "o ( ^! old ,engli% pyx1 or ,corpus ,*ri/i clo?s1 0 f\nd at ! bottom ( a *e/ 9 ,hessett *ur*1 ,suffolk4 ,z x is a rem>kable & unique specim5 ( ! +5i\s h&icraft done by our m$ival c\ntrywom51 we notice x4 ,to make ?is pyx-clo?1 a piece ( ?ick l951 ab\t two feet squ>e1 0 *os51 & be+ m>k$ (f into small equal wid?s on all its f\r edges1 ! ?reads at e o!r space 71 bo? 9 ! w>p & wo(1 pull$ out4 ,! *ecqu]s or squ>es s produc$ all ov] x 7 !n drawn 9 by ?reads ti$ on ! "u side1 s z to h ! %ape ( />s1 s well & nicely giv5 t1 till ?is piece _h be5 n>r[ly look$ into1 x 0 ?\ght to be guipure lace4 ,( a textile s admirably wr\ght1 x is to be regrett$ t !re is1 z yet1 no sample 9 ?is collection4 ,?is curi\s liturgical appliance is figur$ 9 ! ,april numb]1 = ! ye> #ahfh1 ( ! 8,ecclesiologi/10 page #hf4 ,= ! sev]al v curi\s sorts ( ornam5tal ne$lework ab\t x1 & ! some:at intricate mann] aft] :i* x is cut out1 ! old alb1 ,no4 #hgaj1 p4 #bfh1 z well z ! amice1 ,no4 #hcjg1 p4 #ahe1 hav+ bo? ( !m ! app>els yet rema9+ sew$ on to ^! *ur* g>m5ts1 mu/ draw ! att5tion ( e inquir] aft] su* r>e exi/+ samples ( ! k9d4 ,"s v f9e ?read5 clo?s--n[ become r>e--= liturgical purposes1 des]ve att5tion4 ,9 ! old inv5tories ( *ur* furniture 9 ,engl&1 !y are kn[n "u ! "n ( 8filatoria10 ab\t :i* we h spok5 j n[1 p4 cix4 ,at ,no4 #ddeg1 p4 #ii1 is a t[el :i*1 x is likely1 0 spread "u ! tap]s = ,c&lemass-day1 & ! twigs ( ! sall[1 or will[ 7our s-call$ palm71 & slips ( ! box-tree1 = ,palm-,sunday1 :ile !y 7 be+ hall[$ be=e di/ribution4 ,= sev]al lect]n veils1 we %all h to g to ,no4 #gjbi1 p4 #abj2 ,no4 #hceh1 p4 #baj2 & ,no4 #hfic1 p4 #bfa4 ,^? two l95 napk9s1 =m]ly kept hang+ d[n f j bel[ ! crook on a pa/oral /aff or crozi] are become s excessively r>e1 t we unhesitat+ly believe t none ( our c\ntrym5 h ev] be5 able to f9d1 ei!r 9 ,engl& or abroad1 a s+le o!r sample2 !y are to be se51 ,no4 #hbgi;,a1 p4 #agd1 & ,no4 #hffb1 p4 #bej4 ,^? :o h ev] witness$ on a ,sunday morn+ 9 any ( ! great *ur*es at ,p>is1 ! bless+ ( ! ,fr5* 8pa9 b5i0--our old ,engli% 8holy loaf0--! 8eulogia0 ( antiquity--w call to m9d h[ a fair :ite l95 clo?1 l ! "o "h1 ,no4 #hfih1 p4 #bfc1 ov]spread1 & fell 9 graceful folds d[n f two sides ( ! bo>d ^u :i*1 borne on ! %\ld]s ( f\r y\?ful acolytes1 a l>ge r\nd cake g>ni%$ ) fl[]s & wax-tap]s 0 c>ri$ ?r\gh ! *ancel1 & halt+ at ! alt>'s foot got its bless+ f ! celebrant4 ,! ri* crimson velvet cope1 ,no4 #gi1 p4 #b1 has a f9e hood figur$ ) ! com+ d[n1 aft] ! usual mann]1 ( ! ,holy ,gho/ ^u ! infant *ur*4 ,no4 #heie1 p4 #bbf1 pres5ts u ) a %r$ m]ely ( :at mu/ h be5 once a l>ge hang+ = ! *ancel walls1 or p]haps "o ( ! two curta9s at ! alt>'s sides1 hav+ su* fragm5ts ( "s ,lat9 s5t5ces z ^!3--8et tui amoris 9 eis 444 tus4 ,re 444 le tuoru40 ,! subject on ! cope's hood tells ( ,p5teco/ ,sunday2 s too does ! second article1 = ^? brok5 s5t5ces are p>ts ( p>ticul> words3 8,v5i ,sancte ,spiritus1 reple tuorum corda fidelium3 et tui amoris 9 eis ignem acc5de10 to be f\nd bo? 9 our own old ,engli% ,salisbury missal1 & brevi>y1 b 9 e l s]vice-book 9 use dur+ ! m$ival p]iod ?r\gh\t we/]n ,*ri/5dom4 ,be x kept 9 m9d t bo? ^! liturgical appliances are r$ or crimson2 & z n[1 s h]et(ore1 z well 9 old ,engl&1 z else:]e ?is v col\r has be5 employ$ = ! *ur*'s ve/m5ts1 ?us to rem9d u ( ^? p>t$ tongues1 z x 71 ( fire t sat ^u e "o ( ! ,apo/les4#cic ,we m5tion all ?is ) a view to correct an error 9 lexicography4 ,9 our diction>ies we are told t 8,:itsuntide0 is a contract$ =m ( ,:ite ,sunday tide1 s call$ f ! :ite ve/m5ts worn on t day by ! c&idates = baptism4 ,no?+ ( ! sort2 b ! ^w 8wits10 our intellect or und]/&+1 is ! root ( ! t]m1 = a curi\s & valuable old ,engli% book ( s]mons call$ 8,! ,fe/ival10 tells u3--8,?is day is call$ ,wytsonday by cause ! ,holy ,ghoo/ br\ght wytte & wysdom 9 to ,cri/is dyscyples2 & s by h] prea*yng aft] 9 to all ,cri/5dom40#cid #cic ,acts ii4 #a-aa4 #cid ,9 die ,p5!co/es1 fol4 xlvi4 v]so4 ,some:at ak9 to ?is subject1 are ^? sev]al *ri/5+ cloaks "h1 pp4 #h1 #i1 #aj1 #aa4 ,n long ago ! cu/om 0 to c>ry to *ur* = baptism ! baby wrapp$ up 9 "s su* a silk5 cov]+ :i* 0 call$ a be>+-clo?4 ,( old1 t us$ to be a conspicu\s article 9 all royal *ri/5+s2 & among/ our g5try 0 look$ ^u z wor?y en\gh ( be+ made a te/am5t>y beque/4 ,at ! *ri/5+ ( ,ar?ur ,pr9ce ( ,wales1 elde/ son ( ,h5ry ,,vii4 8my ,lady ,cecill1 ! ,que5's elde/ si/]1 b>e ! pr9ce wrapp$ 9 a ,mantell ( ,cremesyn ,clo! ( ,golde furr$ ) ,ermyn10 c4#cie ,su* c]emonial g>m5ts v>i$1 accord+ to ! own]'s position ( life1 9 co/l9ess2 h5ce ,%akespe>e makes ! %eph]d1 9 ! 8,w9t]'s ,tale10 cry out1 8,"h's a sight = !e2 look !e1 a be>+ clo? = a squire's *ild60#cif ,a well-to-d tradesman bequea!d1 ,a4,d4 #afdh1 to 8 daught] ,rose 8 8be>e+ cloa? su* 444 l9n5 z is belong+e to infants at _! tyme ( baptisme40#cig ,v (t5 9 our old c\ntry h\ses are f\nd1 ?r[n aside 9 "s antique *e/1 c]ta9 small squ>e pieces ( nice embroid]y1 ! =m] use = :i* nobody n[ kn[s1 & ab\t :i* "o is ask$4 ,if _! own]s w\ld look at ^? sev]al cradle-quilts "h--pp4 #d1 #ac1 #ff1 #fg1 #ajj1 #ajc1 #ajd1 #aaj--!y might f9d out su* anci5t h\sehold /uff 0 wr\ght = _! =efa!rs' com=t & adornm5t1 :5 m]e babies4 ,! evangeli/s' emblems figur$ on sev]al among ^! cov]lets3 su* z ,no4 #acdd1 p4 #fg1 ,no4 #ddei1 p4 #ajj1 ,no4 #dfdd1 p4 #ajc1 w call to m9d ^? old nurs]y-rhymes we ref]r$ to at p4 #ajc4 ,( yore1 n only little *ildr51 b gr[n-up1 ay1 ag$ m5 too lov$ to ?9k ab\t ^? v]ses1 :5 !y w5t to sleep1 = ! inv5tory ( furniture tak51 ,a4,d4 #addf1 9 ! ,priory ( ,durham1 tells u t 9 ! upp] *amb] !re 0 a b$-quilt embroid]$ ) ! f\r ,evangeli/s--"o 9 ea* corn]3 8j culcitrum cum iiij or ,evangeli/is 9 corn]iis40#cih ,! bag or purse1 ,no4 #hcac1 p4 #ahh1 is ( a k9d :i* n only 7 us$ = ^? liturgical purposes :i* we h already enum]at$1 b s]v$ = private devotional practices4 ,9 t v int]e/+ w made by ,h5ry1 ,"l de ,scrope1 ,a4,d4 #adae1 among o!r pi\s beque/s1 is ! foll[+ "o1 ( ! little bag hav+ 9 x a piece ( our ,"l's cross1 :i* he always wore ab\t 8 neck2--8j bursa p>va qu semp] p5det circa collum meum cum cruce ,dom9i40#cii #cie ,lel&'s ,collectanea1 t4 iv4 pp4 #bje1 #ahj1 #aha1 #ahc4 #cif ,act iii4 sc5e iii4 #cig ,bury ,wills1 c4 p4 #ahf4 #cih ,hi/4 ,dunelm4 ,scriptores ,tres1 ed4 ,surtees ,society1 p4 cclxxxvii4 #cii ,rym]'s ,fd]a1 t4 ix4 p4 #bgh4 ,! crimson velvet mitre1--,no4 #djae1 p4 #he1--;= ! boy-bi%op1 bairn-bi%op1 or ,ni*olas-tide bi%op1 z ! little boy 0 sev]ally call$ 9 ,engl&1 is a liturgical curiosity1 z ! c]emonies 9 :i* x 0 =m]ly worn are ev]y:]e laid aside4 ,among ! ?+s giv5 = ! use ( ! *apel 9 ! college--,all ,s\ls--( 8 f\nd+ at ,ox=d by ,ar*bi%op ,*i*eley1 are a cope & mitre = ?is boy1 !re nam$ ! ,ni*olas-tide bi%ope3--8i cap4 et mitre pro episcopo ,ni*olao40#djj ,to make good 8 election to su* a dignity1 at ,eton ,college1 a boy _h to /udy h>d & %[ at ! exam9ation = x1 t he 0 ! able/ !re at 8 books3 8 success almo/ ennobl$ him among 8 s*oolfell[s3--8,9 die ,/i ,hugonis pontificis0 7#ag ,nov47 8solebat ton fi]i electio ,episcopi ,nihil5sis1 s$ consuetudo obsolevit4 ,olim episcopus ille pu]orum habebatur nobilis1 9 cujus electione1 et lit]ata et laudatissima ex]citatio1 ad +5iorum vires et motos ex]c5dos1 ton celebris erat40#dja ,! col\r1 crimson1 9 ?is boy's mitre1 0 to di/+ui% x f t ( bi%ops4 ,( ! episcopal bairn-clo?--! ,gremiale ( =eign liturgi/s--we h two specim5s "h1--,nos4 #ajca1 #ajcb1 pp4 #ai1 #bj4 ,! ri* "o ( crimson clo? ( gold1 once belong+ to ,b[et1 ,ar*bi%op ( ,york1 :o di$ ,a4,d4 #adbc1 br\ght m money ?an ev5 a *asuble ( ! same /uff3--8,et de xxvjs4 viijd4 receptis pro j4 bairneclo? de rubeo panno auri4 ,et de xxs4 receptis pro j casula de rubeo beaudkyn1 c4 ,inv5torium10 c4#djb ,old episcopal %oes are n[ become great liturgical r>ities1 b !re is "o "h1--,no4 #abij1 p4 #df4 ,at "o "t !y 7 call$ 8s&als20 & among ! episcopal ornam5ts t w5t by usage to ,durham ca!dral at ! dea? ( any ( its bi%ops1 7 8mitra et baculum et s&alia et ct]a episcopalia10 ( ,hugh ,pudsey1 ,a4,d4 #aaie4djc ,lat] 0 giv5 !m ! "n ( 8sabat9es20 & ,ar*bi%op ,b[et's inv5tory m5tions two pairs3--8pro j p>e de sabbatones1 br\ddird1 et c\*' cum p]ell'2 pro j p>e de sabbatones de albo panno auri10 c4#djd #djj ,collectanea ,curiosa1 ed4 ,gut*1 t4 ii4 p #bfe4 #dja ,k+'s ,college1 ,cambridge1 & ,eton ,college ,/atutes1 ed4 ,wright1 p4 #fcb4 #djb ,te/4 ,ebor4 t4 iii4 p4 #gf1 ed4 ,surtees ,society4 #djc ,wills ( ! ,nor!rn ,c\nties1 ed4 ,surtees ,society1 t4 i4 p4 #c4 #djd ,ib4 p4 #gf4 ,,section ,,vi4--,,arti/s ,,& ,,manufactur]s ,w1 on _m occasions1 he>tily rejoice to h1 )9 easy rea*1 su* an ext5sive1 v>i$1 & curi\s collection ( textiles ga!r$ f _m l&s1 & wr\ght 9 diff]5t ages4 ,= ! pa9t] & ! decorator x mu/ h a peculi> value4 ,until ?is collection ( silk5 & o!r k9ds ( wov5 /uffs _h be5 br\ght to ,engl&1 & op5$ = ! _w's inspection & /udy1 an arti/ _h n1 ei!r 9 ?is c\ntry or abroad1 any available means ( be+ correctly true 9 ! patt]ns ( ^? silks & velvets ) :i* he wi%$ to array 8 p]sonages1 or ( ! hang+s = g>ni%+ ! walls ( ! hall 9 :i* he laid ! sc5e ( 8 subject4 ,9 su* a ne$1 "r glad 0 he if he might g to any small collection ( scanty odds & ends belong+ to a fri5d1 or kept 9 private h&s4 ,s ke5ly 0 ?is want felt1 t1 b a few ye>s ago1 works ( beautiful execution1 b ( co/ly price1 7 und]tak5 ^u ! dress ( old5 times1 & m$ival furniture2 yet ^? :o got up su* books c\ld d no?+ bett] ?an set out 9 draw+s1 z _! au?orities = bo? ! bran*es ( _! subject1 su* few specim5s z !y c\ld pick up figur$ 9 illum9at$ ,,mss4 & ! works ( ! e>ly ma/]s4 ,"h1 h[ev]1 our own & =eign arti/s see be=e !m1 n copies1 b ^? v self-same /uffs4 ,if we g to our ,national ,gall]y & look at ! m$ival pictures !re1 tak+ note ( ! /uffs 9 :i* ^? old m5 :o did !m clo!d _! p]sonages2 if1 !n1 we /ep hi!r1 we %all be /ruck by ! fact ( see+ 9 ^! v textiles1 duplicates1 z f> z patt]n is s\ght1 ( ^? same pa9t$ g>m5ts4 ,= example1 9 ,orcagna's ,coronation ( ! ,bless$ ,virg9 ,m>y1 ! blue silk diap]$ 9 gold1 ) fl[]s & birds1 hung z a back gr\nd2 our ,"l's :ite tunic diap]$ 9 gold ) foliage2 ! mantle ( ,8 "m made ( ! same /uff2 ,/4 ,/eph5's dalmatic ( gre5 samit1 diap]$ ) gold5 foliage1 are all q ,sicilian 9 design1 & copi$ f ^? ri* silks :i* came1 at ! middle ( ! f\rte5? c5tury1 f ! looms ( ,pal]mo4 ,:ile /&+ be=e ,jacopo di ,cas5t9o's ,/4 ,john1 our eye is drawn1 on ! in/ant1 to ! orphrey on t evangeli/'s *asuble1 embroid]$1 aft] ! ,tuscan /yle1 ) b>b$ quatrefoils1 %utt+ 9 ! bu/s ( ,apo/les4 ,isotta da ,rim9i1 9 h] portrait by ,pietro della ,francesca1 we>s a g[n made ( velvet & gold1 mu* l "s cut velvets "h4 ,9 ! patt]ns foll[$ by ! ,sicilian looms1 & ^? ( ,italy 9 g5]al1 may almo/ always be f\nd ! same especial elem5ts4 ,( ^!1 "o is ! arti*oke 9 fl[]2 & 9 ,f4 ,francia's pa9t+ ( ! ,bless$ ,virg9 ,m>y ) our ,"l 9 h] arms1 & sa9ts /&+ ab\t !m1--,no4 #agi1--,/4 ,laur5ce's ri* clo? ( gold is diap]$ all ov] ) ! arti*oke m>k$ out 9 ?9 r$ l9es4 ,s1 too1 9 ! picture ( ,v4 ,cappaccio1 ,no4 #gej1 ! clo?-(-gold mantle worn by our ,"l's "m1 z well z ! dress ( ! ,doge1 are bo? diap]$ ) ?is fav\rite ,italian vegetable4 ,(t5 is ?is arti*oke %ut 9 by an oval1 made sometimes ( ogee ar*es1 ) _! f9ials %oot+ =w>ds outside3 ?us is diap]$ ! cloak ( ! ,madonna1 9 ,crivelli's ,in?ronem5t--,no4 #gbd4 ,mu* m frequ5tly1 h[ev]1 ?is oval is put toge!r out ( ar*itectural cusps--six or eight--turn$ inside1 & _! fea!r+s spr\t+ out into a trefoil1 z 9 our own ,e>ly ,engli% /yle4 ,su* ovals r\nd an arti*oke are well %[n 9 ea* ( ! f\r pictures by ,melozzo da ,=li1 on ! p$e-clo? ) :i* ! /eps 9 ea* ( !m are cov]$4 ,( su* a patt]n$ /uff "h we select f sev]al su*1 = ! read]1 ,nos4 #aceb1 p4 #gj2 #aceb;,a1 p4 #gj4 ,/a9$ & patt]n$ pap]s = wall-hang+ are ev5 yet unkn[n b 9 a v few places on ! ,cont95t4 ,! employm5t ( !m z furniture among ourselves is comp>atively v mod]n1 & came to ,engl&1 x is likely1 ?r\gh our trade ) ,*9a4 ,?\gh 9 ,italy ! /ate ap>tm5t & ! reception rooms ( a palace are hung always ) ri* damasks1 & (t5 ) f9e tape/ry1 :ile "s old examples ( gilt & beautifully-wr\ght lea!r trail$ all ov] ) col\r$ fl[]s & leaves are /ill to be f\nd1 ! rooms = dome/ic use h _! :itewa%$ walls adorn$ at be/ ) a col\r$ ornam5tation1 be/[$ ^u !m by ! *eap & ready process ( /5cill+4 ,f e>ly times up to ! middle ( ! sixte5? c5tury1 our ca!drals & p>i% *ur*es1 our ca/les1 manorial h\ses1 & granges1 ! dwell+s ( ! weal?y ev]y:]e1 us$ to be ornam5t$ ) wall-pa9t+ done1 n 9 8fresco10 b 9 8secco20 t is1 di/emp]4 ,^u high fe/ivals ! walls ( ! *ur*es 7 ov]spread ) tape/ry & ne$lework2 s1 too1 ^? 9 ! halls ( ! g5try1 = "s solemn c]emonial4 ,our high-born ladies us$ to sp5d _! leisure h\rs 9 work+ ^! 8hall+s10 z !y 7 call$2 & :ile ,brad%aw1 a monk ( ,/4 ,w]burgh's mona/]y at ,*e/]1 s+s ! praises ( ! patron-sa9t ( 8 *ur*1 he gives u a *>m+ picture ( h[ a l>ge hall 0 array$ "h 9 ,engl& ) ne$lework1 = a solemn fea/ "s "t ab\t ! latt] end ( ! fifte5? c5tury4 ,fir/ ( all1 accord+ to ! !n wont1 :5 great folks 7 bidd5 to a fea/3-- ,all h]bes & fl[]s1 fragraunt1 fayre & swete ,7 /raw$ 9 halles1 & layd "u !yr fete4 ,clo!s ( gold & arras 7 hang$ 9 ! hall ,depaynt$ ) pyctures & hy/oryes manyfolde1 ,well wr\ghte & craftely4 ,! /ory ( ,adam1 ,noe1 & 8 %yppe2 ! twelve sones ( ,jacob2 ! t5 plages ( ,egypt1 &-- ,duke ,josue 0 joyn$ aft] !m 9 pycture1 99 99 99 99 99 ,!yr noble actes & tryumphes m>cyall ,fres%ly 7 br[dr$ 9 ^! clo!s royall4 99 99 99 99 99 ,b ov] ! hye desse 9 pryncypall place ,:]e ! sayd ?re ,kynges sat cr[n$ all ,! be/ hallynge hang$ z reason 01 ,:]eon 7 wr\ght ! ix ord]s angelicall1 ,dyvyd$ 9 ?re i]>*yses1 n cessynge to call1 ,sanctus1 ,sanctus1 ,sanctus1 bless$ be ! ,trynite1 ,dom9us ,deus ,sabao?1 ?re p]sons 9 "o deyte4#dje ,! tape/ries "h w af=d mu* help to ! arti/ if he h to pa9t a d9+ room ) fe/ive do+s go+ on1 any "t dur+ ! latt] portion ( ! m$ival p]iod2 b su* 8hall+s0 are by no means sc>ce4 ,n s1 h[ev]1 su* pieces ( room hang+s z he may f9d "h at ,no4 #acgj1 p4 #gf2 ,no4 #abig1 p4 #bif2 ,no4 #adfe p4 #bih4 ,_! fell[s are n[h]e else to be met )4 ,at a c]ta9 p]iod1 gloves 7 a mu* m ornam5t$ & decorative article ( dress ?an n[2 &1 :5 meant = ladies' we>1 a some:at la/+ p]fume 0 be/[$ ^u !m4 ,among ! new ye>'s day pres5ts to ,tudor ,que5 ,m>y1 "s ye>s be=e %e came to ! ?rone1 0 8a payr ( gloves embrawret ) gold40#djf ,a ye> aft]w>ds1 8x payr ( ,spanyne%e gloves f a ,du*es 9 ,spayne10 came to h]2#djg & b a mon? be=e1 ,mrs4 ,:ell]s _h s5t to h] highness 8a pair ( swete gloves40 ,%akespe>e1 true to mann]s ( 8 days1 aft] mak+ ! pret5d$ p$l]1 ,autolycus1 ?us *ant ! praises ( 8-- ,laura1 z :ite z driv5 sn[2 ,cyprus1 black z e'er 0 cr[2 ,gloves1 z sweet z damask roses2 puts ?is into ,mopsa1 ! %eph]dess'1 m\?1 z %e speaks to h] swa93--8,come1 y promis$ me a tawdry lace1 & a pair ( sweet gloves40#djh ,"h1 9 ?is collection1 we may f9d a pair ( su* gloves1 ,no4 #dffe1 p4 #aje4 ,:at1 ?\gh ! fragrance t once1 no d\bt1 hung ab\t !m1 be all gone1 yet _! %ape & embroid]ies w r5d] !m a valuable item to ! arti/ = "s pa9t+4 #dje ,w>ton's ,hi/ory ( ,engli% ,poetry1 ed4 #ahdj1 t4 ii4 p4 #cge1 c4 #djf ,privy ,purse ,exp5ses ( ! ,pr9cess ,m>y1 ed4 ,madd51 p4 #add4 #djg ,ib4 p4 #afd4 #djh 8,a ,w9t]'s ,tale10 act iv4 sc5e iii4 ,manufactur]s & ma/]-weav]s ( e k9d ( textile1 z well z _! workm51 may ga!r "s useful h9ts = _! trade1 by a look at ! v>i\s specim5s set out "h be=e !m4 ,!y w1 no d\bt1 congratulate !mselves1 z !y fairly may1 t _! bett] k ( *emi/ry enables !m to give to silk1 wool1 & cotton1 t9ts & tones ( t9ts1 & %ades1 nay1 entire col\rs q unkn[n to ! old5 times1 ev5 to _! eld]s ( a few ye>s ago3 our new-f\nd *emicals are c>ry+ ! dye+ art to a high po9t ( beauty & p]fection4 ,among ! sev]al boa/s ( ! pres5t age "o is1 t ( mak+ ma*9]y1 z a work+ p[] 9 delicate op]ations1 s true1 z if x _h be5 quick5$ ) a life & w & p[] all its own3 me*anism appli$ to weav+ is1 at lea/ = ! spe$ ( pla9 "w1 mo/ m>vell\s2 & ! improvem5ts ( ! morr[ ov] ^? ( ye/]day make ! wond] gr[4 ,b1 ?\gh hav+ su* appliances at h&1 let an able well-taught design] = silk5 /uffs come hi!r1 along ) a skill$ weav]1 f ,cov5try1 ,glasg[1 or ,man*e/]1 & ! two w say1 t = tru?fulness & beauty 9 ! draw+ ( ! patt]ns1 & _! good r5d]+s 9 ! weav+1 no?+ ( ! pres5t day is bett]1 :ile mu* is (t5 n s good4 ,yet ^! old /uffs be=e our eyes 7 wr\ght 9 looms s clumsy1 & awkw>d1 & helpless1 t a weav] ( ! pres5t day laughs at !m 9 scorn4 ,! man1 h[ev]1 :o %\ld happ5 to be ask$ to make ! work+ draw+s = sev]al ( su* textiles1 w\ld fa9 ackn[l$ge t he _h be5 taught mu* by _! /udy1 & mu/ /rive h>d be=e he might surpass _m ( !m 9 ! (t5 cr[d$1 yet g5]ally cle> comb9ation ( p>ts borr[$ f bea/s1 birds1 & fl[]s1 all r5d]$ ) beauty & fitt+ness4 ,:at has be51 may be done aga94 ,we "k bett] h[ to dye2 we h m h&y me*anism4 ,let1 !n1 all ^? :o belong any-wise to ! weav+ trade & come hi!r1 g home resolv$ to /& = ! future beh9d no nation1 ei!r ( pa/ or pres5t "t1 9 ! ability ( weav+ n only useful1 b beautiful & arti/ic textiles4 ,be=e leav+ ! ,s\? ,k5s+ton ,museum ! ma/] weav] may1 if he wi%es1 conv9ce himself t ! s-call$ tricks ( ! trade are n evils ( ?is age's gr[?1 b1 x is likely1 old] ?an hi/ory h]self4 ,= m$ival in/ances ( fraud 9 8 own l9e ( bus9ess1 he w f9d n a few among ! silks f ,syria1 ,pal]mo1 & ! ,s\? ( ,spa94 ,:at we said j n[ ab\t ,lett]$ ,silks1 p4 lix4 %\ld be borne "h 9 m9d4 ,) ! ,s>ac5s1 :]ev] !y spread !mselves1 ! usage 0 to weave ^u _! textiles1 v (t51 ei!r ! title ( ! pr9ce :o 0 to we> !m or give !m away1 or "s %ort =m ( pray] or b5$iction4 ,by ,*ri/ian eyes1 su* ,arabic words 7 look$ ^u z ! true un]r+ sign t ! /uffs t %[$ !m came f ,s>ac5ic looms--! be/ ( ^? times--or1 9 o!r t]ms1 7 ! trade-m>k ( ! ,moslem4 ,! ,*ri/ian & ,jewi% weav]s 9 _m p>ts ( ! ,ea/1 to make _! own webs pass z ,s>ac5ic goods1 wr\ght ! ,paynim trade-m>k1 z !n und]/ood1 ^u !m4 ,! =g]y is clumsy3 ! lett]s are poor imitations ( ! ,arabic "*1 & ! pret5d$ ^w runs1 z x %\ld1 fir/ correctly1 or f "r to left1 !n wrong or backw>d f left to "r1 j z if ?is "p ( ! patt]n--& x is no?+ m--_h be5 int5d$1 l e o!r elem5t 9 x1 to confront itself by imm$iate repetition on ! self-same l9e4 ,our "y folks :o sometimes amuse !mselves by writ+ a "n on pap]1 & :ile ! ink is wet fold ! %eet s t ! ^w is %[n aga9 z if writt5 backw>ds1 get su* a k9d ( scroll4 ,9 _m ,ori5tal silk textiles ! w>p is ei!r ( hemp1 flax1 or cotton2 b ?is is s easily discov]able t x c\ld h>dly h be5 done = fraud' sake4 ,!re is h[ev] a ,s>ac5ic trick1 le>n$ f t p1 & aft]w>ds practis$ by ! ,spani>ds ( ! ,s\?1 = imitat+ a wo( ( gold4 ,x is r +5i\s1 & we presume unkn[n among collectors & writ]s until n[4 ,= ! purpose1 ! f9] sort ( p>*m5t 0 s\ght out1 sometimes z ?9 z t n[ r>e k9d ( vellum call$1 among manuscript collectors1 8ut]9e40 ,su* sk9s 7 well gilt & !n cut into v n>r[ %r$s1 :i* 7 aft]w>ds1 in/ead ( gold1 wov51 z ! wo( to ! silk5 w>p1 to %[ ^? portions ( ! patt]n :i* %\ld be wr\ght 9 gold5 ?read4 ,b z ^! /rips ( gild$ p>*m5t 7 flat1 !y necess>ily gave ! /uffs 9 :i* !y came all ! look ( be+ t co/ly & mu* us$ web call$ by u 9 ! fifte5? c5tury 8tyssewys10 z we h be=e notic$1 p4 xxxi4 ,specim5s ( su* a fraudul5t textile are to be se5 "h1 ,nos4 #gjfg1 p4 #acb2 #gjie1 p4 #adj2 #heij1 p4 #bbd2 #hfja1 p4 #bbi2 #hfci1 p4 #bdc1 c4 ,,section ,,vii4--,,symbolism4 ,a metaphor or figurative spee* is ! utt]ance to ! und]/&+ ?r\gh ! e> ( words :i* h o!r & fur!r mean+s 9 !m ?an _! fir/ "o4 ,symbolism is ! br++ to our ?\ghts1 ?r\gh ! eye1 "s natural object1 "s human p]sonage1 "s art-wr\ght figure1 :i* is meant to set =? a "s "o1 or a some?+ else besides itself4 ,! use ( bo? arose among m5 :5 !y fir/ began to dwell on e>? & live toge!r4 ,?r\gh symbolism1 & ! phonetic sy/em1 ,egypt /ruck out = h]self h] ?ree alphabets--! hi]oglyphic or picture writ+2 ! hi]atic or prie/ly *>act]s1 or %ort5$ =m ( ! hi]oglyphics2 & ! en*orial or p's alphabet1 a fur!r abridgm5t /ill4 ,! ,hebrew lett]s are ! conv5tional symbols ( ?+s 9 nature or art2 & ev5 yet1 ea* keeps ! "n ( ! object :i* at fir/ x repres5t$2 z 8aleph0 or 8ox10 8be?0 or 8h\se10 8gimel0 or 8camel10 c4 ,holy ,writ is full ( symbolism2 & f ! mom5t t we beg9 to read ^? words--8,i w set my b[ 9 ! cl\ds1 & x %all be ! sign ( a cov5ant10#dji till we rea* ! la/ *apt] 9 ! ,new ,te/am5t1 we %all1 all ?r\gh\t1 come ^u _m mo/ beautiful & appropriate examples4 ,! blood spr9kl$ ^u ! door-po/s ( ! ,israelites2 ! braz5 s]p5t 9 ! wild]ness2 t sign--t my/ic & sav+ sign 7,tau7 ( ,ezekiel1 71 ea* & e "o ( !m symbols4 #dji ,g54 ix4 #ac4 ,be+ giv5 to und]/& t ?+s :i* happ5$ to ! ,jews 7 s _m symbols = u1 ! e>ly ,*ri/ian ,*ur* figur$ on ! walls ( ! catacombs _m passages f anci5t ,jewi% hi/ory z applicable to itself1 :ile its writ]s be/[$ mu* att5tion on ! /udy ( symbolism4 ,s4 ,melito1 bi%op ( ,s>des1 ,a4,d4 #agj1 drew out ( scripture a great _m texts :i* w\ld be> a symbolical mean+1 & gave to 8 "w ! "n ( 8,! ,key40 ,almo/ q =gott51 & well nigh lo/1 ?is valuable book1 aft] long & unwe>i$ lab\r1 0 at la/ f\nd & pr9t$ by ,dom 7n[ ,c>d9al7 ,pitra 9 8 ,spicilegium ,solesm5se1 t4 ii4 ,among o!r works f ! p5 ( ,/4 ,epiphanius1 born ,a4,d4 #caj1 we h 8 annotations on a book1 !n old1 & call$ 8,! ,physiologi/10 & a "w ( 8 own--a treatise on ! twelve /ones worn by ,a>on1#daj 9 bo? ( :i*1 ! ,sa9t speaks mu* ab\t symbolism4 ,b ! f\r? c5tury witness$ ! production ( ! two great works on ,scriptural ,symbolism2 t ( ,/4 ,basil 9 8 homilies on ! six days' creation2#daa :i* s]mons 9 ,greek 7 /yl$ by _! writ] 8,hexm]on20 & ! o!r by ,/4 ,ambrose1 9 ,lat91 long] & m elaborat$1 on ! same subject & be>+ ! same title4 ,a love = su* a /udy grew up ) ! *ur*'s gr[? ev]y:]e1 f ! f> ea/ to ! utmo/ we/1 amid ,greeks z well z ,lat9s1 all ( :om beheld1 9 _! sev]al liturgies1 _m illu/rations ( ! sy/em4 ,x 0 n conf9$ to cl]ics1 b laym5 w>mly foll[$ x4 ,! arti/1 :e!r he _h to set =? 8 "w 9 pa9t+ or mosaic2 ! ar*itects1 :e!r !y 7 entru/$ ) ! rais+ ( a *ur*1 or build+ a royal palace1 nay a dwell+-h\se1 71 ea* ( !m1 b too glad to avail !mselves1 "u cl]ical guidance1 ( su* a p[]ful help = beautiful v>iety & happy illu/ration z 0 af=d$ !m by ,*ri/ian ,symbolism4 ,s sy/ematiz$ at la/ became ?is subject t by ! elev5? c5tury we f9d x sep>at$ into ?ree bran*es--bea/s1 birds1 & /ones--& works 7 writt5 ^u ea*4 ,^? ^u bea/s 71 z !y /ill are1 kn[n by ! title ( 8,be/i>ia10 or books on bea/s2 8,volucr>ia10 on birds1 & 8,lapid]ia10 on /ones4 ,ab\t ! same p]iod1 z an (fset f symbolism1 h]aldry sprang up2 :e!r ! crusad]s 7 ! fir/ to be?9k !mselves ( su* a me?od = p]sonal recognition & di/9ction2 or :e!r !y borr[$ ! idea f ! peoples 9 ! ea/1 & :ile adopt+1 mu* improv$ ^u x1 matt]s n2 h]aldry grew out ( symbolism4 ,v soon x 0 made to tell ab\t secul> z well z sacr$ ?+s2 & poets1 nay political p>tizans 7 quick 9 _! le>n+ ( its language4 ,! weav] too ( silk5 webs 0 (t5 bade1 :ile ge>+ 8 loom1 to be direct$ by its tea*+1 z sev]al specim5s 9 ?is collection w te/ify4 ,t "s ( ! patt]ns1 made up ( bea/s & birds1 ^u silk5 /uffs f ,sicilian1 or ,italian looms & "h be=e u1 7 sket*$ by a p>tizan p5cil & advis$ly meant to c>ry ab\t !m an hi/oric1 if n political signification1 we d n = a mom5t d\bt4 ,sev]al in/ances ( sacr$ symbolism "h1 h be5 specifi$1 & "s explanation ( x giv54 #daj ,exod4 xxviii4 #daa ,g54 i4 ,! 8gammadion10 or ! cross made ?us a figure :i*1 z we said be=e1 is to be se5 trac$ ^u ! e>lie/ hea!ni% art-works1 z well z ! late/ m$ival ones = ,*ri/ian use1 may be (t5 f\nd wr\ght on textiles "h4 ,kn[+1 z we d1 t ! fir/ "t ?is symbol %[s itself to our eyes1 is 9 ! patt]n figur$ on a web ( ! ,ph>aonic p]iod1 x is to ! e>ly hi/ory ( ,egypt we ought to g1 if we wi% to le>n its orig9 & mean+4 ,! mo/ a/\nd+ ev5t ( ! _w's annals 0 ! go+ out ( ,israel f ,egypt4 ,! blood ( ! lamb sla9 & sacrific$ ! ev5+ be=e1 & put ^u bo? ! door-po/s1 z well z spr9kl$ at ! ?re%old ( ! h\se :]e9 any ,hebrew dwelt--a sign ( safety f all h>m & dea? to man & bea/1 )9 its walls1 on t awful night :5 ?r\gh\t all ,egypt ! fir/-born ( ev]y?+ else 0 kill$--mu/ h caught ! sight ( e wond]-/rick5 ,egyptian fa!r & "m :o1 :ile weep+ ov] _! loss1 he>d t dea? _h n gone 9 to d ! "w ( slaught] :]e ! blood _h sign$ ! gates ( e ,israelite4 ,among ! ,hebrew traditions1 h&$ d[n to u by ! ,rabb9s1 "o is t ! m>k made by ! ,israelites ^u _! door-po/s ) ! blood ( ! sacrific$ lamb1 ! night be=e />t+ out ( ,egypt1 0 fa%ion$ l ! lett] ,tau made aft] its old5 =m1 t is1 9 ! %ape ( a cross1 ?us 4 ,:at is /ill m curi\s1 we are told t ! lamb itself 0 spitt$ z if x _h be5 meant to be> ab\t its body1 an unmi/akable lik5ess to a k9d ( crucifixion4 ,treat+ ( ! passov]1 ! ,talmud says3--,! ram or kid 0 roa/$ 9 an ov5 :ole1 ) two spits made ( pomegranate wood ?ru/ ?r\gh x1 ! "o l5g?wise1 ! o!r transv]sely 7cross+ ! longitud9al "o ne> ! =e-legs7 ?us =m+ a cross4#dab ,precisely ! same ?+ is said by ,/4 ,ju/91 m>tyr1 born ,a4,d4 #ajc1 9 8 ,dialogue ) ,tryphon ! ,jew4 ,?is v mode ( roa/+ is express$ 9 ,arabic by ! v]b 8to crucify20 accord+ to ,jahn1 9 8 8,biblical ,antiquities10 #adb1 z quot$ by ,kitto1 "u ! ^w ,passov]4#dac #dab ,pesa*im1 c4 #c4 #dac ,t4 ii4 p4 #dgg ( ! 8,cyclopdia ( ,biblical ,lit]ature40 ,f ! words ( ,/4 ,j]ome1 x w\ld seem t t le>n$ hebrai/1 well kn[+1 z he did1 ! traditions ( ! rabb9s ( 8 day1 _h und]/ood f !m t ! m>k ( ! lamb's blood spr9kl$ on ! doors ( ! ,israelites go+ out ( ,egypt1 _h be5 s made z to take ! %ape ( a cross4 ,deeply smitt5 z ! :ole ( ,egypt mu/ h be5 at ! woe t befel !m & !irs1 ! night be=e ! great exode ( ! ,israelites f among !m1 ^? ,egyptians c\ld n help see+ h[ all ! ,hebrews1 _! *ildr51 & _! flocks _h gone =? sca!less out ( t dea?-/rick5 l&4 ,at peep ( dawn1 ! blood ^u ! door-po/s ( e h\se :]e an ,israelite _h lately dwelt1 told ! secret2 = ! de/roy] _h n be5 !re4 ,f t h\r1 a ,tau 0 ?\ght by !m to be ! symbol ( heal? & safety1 ( happ9ess1 & future life4 ,/4 ,epiphanius1 born ,a4,d4 #caj1 9 ,pale/9e1 = _m ye>s ,ar*bi%op ( ,salamis 9 ,cyprus1 & a great travell] 9 ,egypt1 tells u1 t be+ m9dful ( t day on :i* ! ,israelites :o _h besme>$ ! door-po/s ( _! h\ses ) ! blood ( ! lamb1 _h be5 sp>$ ! angel's dea?-/roke1 ! ,egyptian p 7 accu/om$1 at e v]nal equ9ox--_! new ye>--to daub1 ) r$ pa9t1 _! doors1 _! trees1 & animals1 ! :ile !y cri$ out t1 8once at ?is "t fire blight$ e ?+20 aga9/ su* a plague1 !y ?9k t ! rem$y is a spell 9 ! col\r ( blood3 8,egyptios memores illius diei quo a cde angeli lib]ati sunt ,israelit qui agni sangu9e po/es domorum ill9i]ant1 solitos esse1 intrante qu9octio v]nanti1 accip]e rubricam et ill9]e omnes arbores domosque clamantes #8quia 9 tempore hoc ignis va/avit omnia' contra quam luem rem$ium putant ignis colorem sangu9eum rubric40#dad #dad ,hreses1 xviii4 ,:ile !y f\nd blood ^u ! dep>t$ & unh>m$ ,israelites' door-po/s1 ! sorr[+ ,egyptians mu/ h se5 t x _h be5 spr9kl$ !re1 n at haz>d1 b ) ! /udi$ purpose ( mak+ !re) ! ,egyptian lett] ,tau1 z x us$ to be fa%ion$ at ! "t4 ,b :at 0 !n its common %ape8 ,t ! old ,tau 0 a cross1 we are told by writt5 au?ority1 & le>n f monum5tal evid5ce4 ,le>n$ z he 0 9 all ! wisdom ( ! ,egyptians1 ,moses1 no d\bt1 wrote ) ! lett]s ( _! alphabet4 ,n[1 ! olde/ %ape ( ! ,tau 9 ! ,hebrew alphabet1 & /ill kept up among ! ,sam>itans 9 ,/4 ,j]ome's days1 0 9 ! =m ( a cross3 8,antiquis ,hebrorum lit]is1 quibus usque hodie ,sam>it utuntur1 extrema ,tau crucis habet similitud9em1 qu 9 ,*ri/ianorum frontibus p+itur et frequ5tius manus inscriptione signatur40#dae ,= monum5tal te/imony we ref] ! read] to ! pro(s we h giv51 at l>ge1 9 8,hi]urgia10 pp4 #ceb-cee1 second edition4 ,/r5g!n+ our idea t ! lamb's blood _h be5 put on ! door-po/ 9 ! %ape ( a cross1 & t h5ce ! old ,egyptians _h borr[$ x z a spell aga9/ evil hap1 & a symbol ( a life h]eaft]1 is a passage set =?1 fir/ by ,ruf9us1 ,a4,d4 #cig1 & !n by ,socrates1 ,a4,d4 #ddj3--8,on demoli%+ at ,alex&ria a temple d$icat$ to ,s]apis1 7 obs]v$ sev]al /ones sculptur$ ) lett]s call$ hi]oglyphics1 :i* %[$ ! figure ( a cross4 ,c]ta9 ,g5tile inhabitants ( ! city :o _h lately be5 conv]t$ to ! ,*ri/ian fai?1 initiat$ 9 ! me?od ( int]pret+ ^! enigmatic *>act]s1 decl>$ t ! figure ( ! cross 0 consid]$ z ! symbol ( future life40#daf ,we "k t1 :ile ! old ,tau kept ! %ape ( a cross1 x took at lea/ ?ree modifications ( t =m on ^? monum5ts :i*1 up to ?is "t1 h be5 br\ght to light3 o!rs may turn up ) t lett] trac$ exactly l ! s-call$ 8gammadion0 f\nd ^u an ,egyptian /uff ( su* an e>ly date4 ,mo/ probably ?is 0 ! v %ape1 b ) %ort] arms1 ( ! lett] f\nd trac$ ^u ! door-po/s4 #dae ,hi]4 9 cap4 ix4 ,eze*4 #daf ,hi/4 ,eccles4 lib4 v4 c4 #ag4 ,! recurr5ce ( ! gammadion ^u ,*ri/ian monum5ts is curi\s4 ,we f9d x %[n ^u ! tunic ( a grav$igg] 9 ! catacombs2 x comes 9 among ! ornam5tation wr\ght ^u ! gold & p>cel-gilt alt>-frontal dome by our ,anglo-,saxon c\ntryman ,walw9 = ! ,ambrosian basilican *ur* at ,milan2 x is se5 ^u ! n>r[ bord] r\nd "s embroid]y ( ! twelf? c5tury1 lately f\nd )9 a %r9e 9 ,belgium1 & figur$ by t untir+ ar*ologi/ ! ,canon ,vois9 ( ,t\rnay2 & ^u a piece ( ,engli% ne$lework ( ! latt] half ( ! same twelf? c5tury--! mitre ( our ,/4 ,?omas1 figur$ by ,%aw1 & /ill kept at ,s5s ca!dral4 ,z a fav\rite elem5t 9 ! patt]n work$ ^u our ecclesia/ical embroid]ies1 ?is 8gammadion0 is z conspicu\sly %[n ^u ! app>el r\nd ! %\ld]s1 & on ! "o 9 front ( 8 alb1 9 ! effigy ( ,bi%op ,ed+ton1 at ,w9*e/] ca!dral1 z ^u ! ve/m5ts ( a prie/ 9 a grave-brass at ,%ottesbrook *ur*1 ,b]ks1 giv5 by ,wall] 9 8 f9e "w4 ,always keep+ up its hea!ni% signification ( a 8future life10 ,*ri/ianity wid5$ ! mean+ ( ?is symbol1 & made x tea* ! doctr9e ( ! ,atonem5t ?r\gh ! dea? ( our ,"l ^u a cross4 ,fur!rmore1 x set =? t ,he is our corn]-/one4 ,ab\t ! ?irte5? c5tury1 x 0 tak5 to be an apt memorial ( ,8 five w\nds2 & rememb]+ ! /igmata or five impressions 9 ! h&s1 feet1 & side ( ,/4 ,francis ( ,assisi1 ?is gammadion became ! fav\rite device ( su* z bore t fam\s sa9t's "n1 & 0 call$ 9 ,engl&1 aft] its p>tial lik5ess to ! ensigne ( ! ,isle ( ,man--?ree feet--a fylfot4#dag #dag ,m4 ,s4 ,h>ley1 #hgd1 p4 #aij4 ,to ! symbolic mean+ affix$ unto "s animals1 we h po9t$ 9 ! catalogue1 :]e91 at p4 #aef1 ! read] w f9d t ,*ri/1 z ,god1 is typifi$ "u ! figure ( a lion1 "u t aga9 ( ! unicorn1 z ,god-man4 ,man's s\l1 at pp4 #bcg1 #caa1 is figur$ z ! h>e2 mis*ief & lubricity are1 at p4 #caa1 %ad[$ =? 9 ! lik5ess ( ! monkey4 ,birds (t5 come 9 "h z symbols2 & ( c\rse we behold ! lordly eagle v frequ5tly4 ,be>+ 9 m9d h[ /ruggl$ ! two great factions ( ! ,guelphs ^: armorial arms 7 8un' ,aquila con un ,drago sotto i pi$i0--an eagle ) a dragon "u its feet--& ! ,ghibell9i1 we d n wond] at f9d+ ! noble bird1 sometimes s+le1 sometimes d\ble-head$1 s frequ5tly figur$ on silks wov5 9 ,sicily1 or on ! ,italian p59sula1 triumph+ ov] 8 enemy1 ! dragon or ,ghibell9e /ret*$ d[n be=e him4 ,ab\t ! emblematic eagle ( classic times we h already spok54 ,if ! ,roman ,qu9tus ,curtius1 l ! ,greeks be=e him1 0 9 amazem5t at c]ta9 birds 9 ,india1 s quick 9 mimick+ ! human voice3 8aves ad imit&um human vocis sonum dociles10#dah we naturally expect to f9d ! p>rot figur$1 z we d "h1 ^u /uffs f ,asia1 or imitations ( su* webs4 ,fam\s1 9 ea/]n /ory1 are ^? kn[+ birds--& !y 7 p>rots--t1 on com+ home at ev5+1 us$ to :isp] unto ?iopia's que5 7:om ,engli%m5 n till ! sixte5? c5tury began to call ,%eba1 b all ! _w besides call$ & yet calls ,saba7 ea* ^w & do+1 t day1 ( ! f>-(f ,solomon1 or br\ght r\nd _! necks lett]s f him4 ,out ( ?is ,talmudic fable grew ! me?od ) arti/s dur+ ! fifte5? c5tury ( figur+ "o ( ! wise m5 z v sw>?y--an ?iopian--"u ! "n ( ,bal?as>1 tak+ z _! w>rant1 a "w call$ 8,collectane10 errone\sly assign$ to our own ,b$a2 & because our ,salisbury books = ! liturgy1 sang1 z all ! old liturgies yet s+1 on ! fea/ ( ! ,epiphany3--8,all %all come f ,saba0--! "n ( ! c\ntry z well z ( t que5 :o once gov]n$ x--8br++ gold & frank9c5se10 c4 ^? m$ival arti/s deem$ x prop] to %[ some:]e ab\t ! wise m51 p>rots1 z sure to h be5 br\ght among ! o!r gifts1 especially f ! l& ( ,saba4 ,^u a cope1 belong+ n[ to ,m\nt ,/4 ,m>y's1 ,*e/]field1 made ( v ri* crimson velvet1 !re is beautifully embroid]$ by ,engli% h&s1 ! arrival at ,be?lehem ( ! ?ree wise m54 ,9 ! orphrey1 on t "p j above ! hood1 are figur$ 9 _! prop] col\rs two p>rots1 z ^? may rememb] :o saw x 9 ! ,exhibition "h ( #ahfb2 on textiles be=e u ?is bird is (t5 %[n4 ,! appe>ance ( ! p>rot on ! ve/m5ts at old ,/4 ,paul's is v frequ5t4#dai #dah ,lib4 viii4 cap4 #i4 #dai ,dugdale1 p4 #cag4 ,b ( ! fea!r$ tribe :i* we meet ) figur$ on ^! textiles1 !re are ?ree t m]it an especial m5tion ?r\gh ! important "p !y 7 made to take1 :ilom 9 ,engl& at _m a high fe/ival & regal celebration--we mean ! s-call$ 8,v[ ( ! ,swan1 ! ,peacock & ! ,pheasant40 ,f ! graceful ease--! almo/ royal dignity ) :i* x walks ! wat]s1 ! swan ) its plumage spotless & :ite z driv5 sn[1 has ev]y:]e be5 look$ ^u ) admir+ eyes2 & its fle% :ile yet a cygnet us$ to be e/eem$ a da9ty = a royal bo>d1 on "s extraord9>y occasions4 ,to make x ! symbol ( maje/ic beauty 9 a woman1 x _h sometimes giv5 x a female's head4 ,among ! gifts be/[$ on 8 son1 ,ri*>d ,,ii4 by ! ,black ,pr9ce1 9 8 w 7 b$-hang+s embroid]$ ) :ite swans hav+ wom5's heads4 ,to raise ?is bird /ill high]1 9 ecclesia/ical symbolism1 x is put =? to indicate a /a9less1 m ?an royal purity2 & z su*1 is (t5 l9k$ ) & figur$ "u ! ,bless$ ,virg9 ,m>y1 z is %[n ^u an enamell$ morse giv5 9 ! 8,*ur* ( our ,fa!rs40#dbj ,besides all ?is1 ! swan owns a curi\s leg5d ( its own1 set =? by "s rav+ tr\bad\r 9 ! wilde/ dream t m9/rel ev] dream$4 8,! life & myracul\s hy/ory ( ! mo/ noble & illu/ry\s ,helyas1 knight ( ! swanne1 & ! bir? ( ye excell5t knight ,godfrey ( ,b\lyon10 c41 0 once a book 9 great fav\r ?r\gh\t ,europe2 & 0 8newly translat$ & pr9t$ by ,rob]t ,copl&1 out ( ,fr5s%e 9 to ,englis%e at ?9/igacion ( ye ,puyssaunt & ,illu/ry\s ,prynce ,lorde ,edw>de ,duke ( ,buckyngham--( :om lynyally is dysc5d$ my sayde lorde40#dba #dbj ,t4 ii4 p4 #da4 #dba ,typographical ,antiquities ( ,great ,brita91 ed4 ,dibd91 t4 iii4 pp4 #aeb-c4 ,:ile our noble c\ntryman boa/$ ( an (fspr+ f ?is fabl$ swan1 s did ! greate/ h\ses abroad4 ,9 private h&s 9 ,engl& is a preci\s ivory casket wr\ght on its five panels1 be=e u 9 photography1 ) ?is hi/ory ( ! swan4 ,helyas's %ield & flag are ensign$ ) ,/4 ,george's cross2 ! arm\r tells ( ,engl& & its milit>y appliances1 ab\t ! end ( ! f\rte5? c5tury2 & ! :ole seems ! "w ( ,engli% h&s4 ,at ! great exhibition ( loans 9 ?is museum1 ,a4,d4 #ahfb1 "o ( ! _m f9e textiles !n %[n 0 a f9e b cut-d[n *asuble ( blue ,sicilian silk1 ^u :i* 01 curi\sly en\gh = :at we h said ab\t ! birds be=e :i* ! 8,v[0 0 made1 figur$1 amid o!r f[ls ! pheasant4 ,! h&some orphreys ^u ?is ve/m5t 7 wr\ght 9 ?is c\ntry1 & good specim5s !y are ( ,engli% ne$lework dur+ ! f\rte5? c5tury4 ,^! orphreys1 be=e & beh9d1 are embroid]$ on a bright r$ silk gr\nd1 ) gold5 fl[] & leaf-be>+ bran*es1 s trail$ z1 9 _! tw9+s1 to =m ,/af=d knots 9 places1 & to emb[] %ields ( arms ea* support$ by gold swans all once ducally gorg$4 ,f ^! & o!r be>+s on x1 ?is *asuble w\ld seem to h be5 work$ = ! ,/af=ds1 ,dukes ( ,buck+ham4 ,at ,corby ,ca/le !re is an alt> frontal ( crimson velvet made = & figur$ ) ! great ,buck+ham & 8 ,du*ess bo? on _! knees at ! foot ( a crucifix4 ,amid a spr9kl+ ( ! ,/af=d knot1 = ! ,duke 7,h5ry ,,viii4 behead$ him7 0 ,e>l ( ,/af=d1 ! swan is %[n1 & ! ,"l ,/af=d ( ,cossey1 9 ^: ve9s ! blood ( ! old ,buck+ham /ill runs1 gives a silv] swan z "o ( 8 armorial support]s4 ,at ,l9coln ca!dral !re 73--,a cope ( r$ clo? ( gold ) swans ( gold2#dbb & a cope ( purple velvet hav+ a good orphrey set ) swans4#dbc ,9 m$ival symbolism1 z read by ,engli%m51 ! swan 0 deem$ n only a royal bird1 b1 m ?an t1 "o ( ! tok5s ( royal pr[ess4 ,h5ce we may easily und]/& :y our great w>rior k+1 ,edw>d ,i41 z he sat fea/+ 9 ,we/m9/] ,hall1 amid all ! *ivalry1 old & "y ( ! k+dom1 on su* a memorable day1 %\ld h _h br\ght be=e him ! two swans 9 _! gold5 cages3--8tunc allati sunt 9 pompatica gloria duo cygni vel olores1 ante regem1 phal]ati retibus aureis1 vel fi/ulis deauratis1 desid]abile spectaculum1 intu5tibus4 ,quibus visis1 rex votum vovit ,deo cli et cygnis1 se pr(icisci 9 ,scotiam10 c4#dbd ,& !n solemnly made ! 8,v[ ( ! ,swan10 z we describ$1 p4 #bhg ( ! ,catalogue4 #dbb ,mon4 ,anglic4 t4 viii4 p4 #abhb4 #dbc ,ibid4 #dbd ,flores ,hi/ori>um1 p] ,matt4 ,we/mona/4 ,collect1 p4 #ded4 ,9 ! pride ( place1 on su* occasions1 abrea/ ) ! swan /ood ! peacock1 8) 8 angel fe!rs bright20 & 0 at all times & ev]y:]e look$ ^u z ! emblem ( beauty4 ,n a =mal banquet 0 ev] giv51 at "o p]iod1 )\t ?is bird be+ among ! di%es2 9 fact1 ! pr9cipal "o4 ,to prep>e x = ! table1 x _h be5 kill$ & sk9n$ ) /udi\s c>e4 ,:5 roa/$1 x 0 sew$ up 9 its sk9 aft] su* an arti/ic way t its cre/$ head & azure neck 7 kept1 z 9 nature1 q upright2 & its fan-l tail outspread2 & !n1 put 9 a sitt+ position on a l>ge broad silv] di% p>cel gilt1 us$ to be br\ght into ! hall ) mu* solemnity4 ,on ! la/ day ( a t\rnam5t1 its gay fe/ivities end$ 9 a m ?an usual sumptu\s banquet+4 ,! l>ge b>onial hall 0 hung all ov] ) hang+s1 sometimes figur$ ) a romance1 sometimes ) sc5es su* z we read ( 9 8,! ,fl[] & ! ,leaf20 & because trees ab\nd$ on !m1 7 kn[n z tape/ry ( 8v]d40 ,at top ( & all along ! trav]s ran ! m9/rel-gall]y1 & ?i!r-- ,come fir/ all 9 _! clokes :ite1 ,a company1 t w>e = _! delite1 ,*apelets fre% ( okes s]iall1 ,newly sprong1 & trumpets !y 7 all4 ,on e trumpe hang+ a broad ban]e ,( f9e t>t>ium 7 full ri*ely bete1 ,e trumpet 8 lordes arms b>e1 ,ab\t _! neckes ) great pe>les sete ,coll]s brode1 = co/ !y w\ld n lete1 c4#dbe ,f among ^? high-born damosels :o _h cr[d$ ?i!r1 "o 0 *os5 z ! que5 ( beauty4 ,:5 all ! gue/s _h ga!r$ 9 t d9+-hall1 & be5 m>%all$ 9 _! places by ! h]ald1 & ! almon] _h said grace1 & set ! 8grete almes dis%e ( silv] & ov]gilt1 made 9 mann] ( a %ippe full ( m5 ( armes feyghtyng ^u ! %ippe syde weyng 9 all lxvii lb ix unc ( troye10#dbf at ! high bo>d "u ! dais1 a bold fanf> 0 fl\ri%$ ^u silv] trumpets1 f :i* droop$ silk5 flags embroid]$ ) ! blazon ( t ca/le's "l1 or-- ,( gold ful ri*e1 9 :i* !r 0 ybete "s qua9t device4 ,!n a bur/ ( music f ! m9/rel-gall]y arose z came 9 ! que5 ( beauty4 ,h] kirtle 0 ( ciclat\n1 clo? ( pall1 or sp>kl+ tissue3-- ,to don hon\r 7to t day7 ,yclo!d 0 %e fres%e = to devise4 ,hire yelwe "h 0 broid$ 9 a tresse1 ,beh9d hire back a y]de long ,i gesse2 ,& 9 ! g>d9 at ! sonne upri/1 ,%e walke? up & d\n :] z h] li/4 ,%e ga!re? fl\res1 p>tie :ite & r$1 ,to make a sotel g]lond = hire h$4#dbg ,"o at ea* side ( h]1 walk$ two ( ! y\nge/ ba*elors 9 *ivalry4 ,^! y\?s did n we> _! h>ness1 b came array$ 9 gay attire1 hav+ on :ite hoods1 p]haps embroid]$ ) danc+ m5 9 blue habits1 l ! "o giv5 by ,edw>d ,,iii4 to ! ,"l ,grey ( ,ro!rfield1 to be worn at a t\rnam5t2 or look+1#dbh ea* ( !m1 l ! 8yonge ,squi]10 ( :om ,*auc] said3-- ,embr\d$ 0 he1 z x 7 a m$e1 ,alle ful ( fres%e fl\res1 :ite & r$4#dbi #dbe ,*auc]1 ,! ,fl[] & ! ,leaf1 v4 #bjg1 c4 #dbf ,anti5t ,kal5d>s ( ! ,ex*equ]s1 ed4 ,palgrave1 ii4 p4 #ahd4 #dbg ,*auc]1 ,! ,knightes ,tale1 v4 #ajej4 #dbh ,dugdale's ,b>onage1 i4 #gbc4 #dbi ,! ,prologue1 v4 #gi4 ,tread+ out sweetness f ! bay leaves /rew$ among ! ru%es on ! floor1 & ) /ep z /ately z ! peacock's own1 ! que5 ( beauty = ! nonce1 be>+ 9 bo? h] h&s ! spl5did *>g] ) ! bird--! symbol ( h]self--sl[ly pac$ ! hall4 ,halt+ on a sudd51 %e set x d[n be=e ! knight :o1 by g5]al accord1 _h borne him be/ ?r\gh\t t t\rnam5t2 su* 0 ! ladies' tok5 ( _! praises4 ,to c>ve well at table 0 "o ( ! accompli%m5ts ( anci5t *ivalry2 & our own ,k+ ,ar?ur 0 s able 9 t g5tle craft1 t on "o occasion he is said to h cut up a peacock s clev]ly t e "o among ! "o hundr$ & fifty gue/s _h a morsel ( ! f[l4 ,to %[ himself z good a knight at a fea/ z at a passage ( arms1 ! lady bade him c>ve ! bird4 ,:at ! lances ( 8 antagoni/s c\ld n d1 ?is me$ ( praise f ! ladies did--x ov]came him4 ,) def]5ce1 he humbly plead$ t _m a d\ghty knight !re pres5t 0 m wor?y ( ! hon\r3 all 8 words 7 wa/$4 ,! que5 ( beauty w\ld brook no ga9say+ to h] behe/4 ,he !re=e b[$ ob$i5ce1 & %e w5t away4 ,ere apply+ himself to 8 devoir1 out/ret*+ 8 "r h& on high above ! di% be=e him1 amid ! deepe/ sil5ce1 & 9 a r++ voice1 s z to be well he>d by all t noble pres5ce1 ! knight v[$ 8 v[ ( ! peacock4 ,almo/ always ?is v[ 0 half religi\s1 half milit>y2 & he :o took x b\nd himself to g on pilgrimage to ! ,holy ,l&1 &1 on 8 road ?i!r or homew>d1 to jo91 z he might1 any crusade aga9/ ! ,paynim4 ,h>dly _h ! words ( su* a plight be5 utt]$1 :5 o!r knights />t$ up at e table1 & b\nd !mselves by 8 or "s l v[4 ,! d9n] done1 ! fea/ 0 n q ov]4 ,pluck+ f its tail ! be/ & brighte/ ( ! peacock's fea!rs1 ! beauty-que5 wove !m into a diadem2 ! m9/rel :o _h long di/+ui%$ himself1 0 summon$ by a pursuivant & br\ght be=e h]2 & %e cr[n$ him z he knelt l[ly d[n4 ,ev] aft]w>ds1 at fe/ival or t\rnam5t1 ?is music k+ wore ?is cr[n ab\t 8 hat z bli!ly z did ! knight 8 lady's glove or fav\r on 8 helmet1 at a j\/4 ,su* 0-- ,v[is ( ,pecok1 ) all !r pr\de *]e4 ,sometimes a pheasant1 on acc\nt ( its next beautiful plumage1 us$ to be employ$1 in/ead ( ! l>g]1 gr&] peacock4 ,) ^! facts set be=e him1 any visitor to ?is collection w take a mu* m lively int]e/ 9 s preci\s a piece ( ,engli% embroid]y z is ! ,syon cope1 = :ile look+ at x 9 admiration ( ! art-"w %[n 9 su* a spl5did *ur* ve/m5t1 he f9ds1 :]e he nev] ?\ght ( com+ on1 a curi\s record ( our anci5t national mann]s4 ,besides all t has be5 said 9 ref]5ce to ?is cope1 at pp4 #bhi-ij ( ! ,catalogue1 we w\ld rem9d our read] t at easy di/ances f ,cov5try might be f\nd su* lordly ca/les z ^? ( ,w>wick1 ,k5ilwor?1 ,*>tley1 ,m9/] ,lovel1 ,tamwor?4 ,! hold+ ( a t\rnam5t )9 _! spaci\s walls1 or 9 ! fields beside !m1 01 we may be c]ta91 ( frequ5t occurr5ce at "s "o or o!r ( !m4 ,! tilt+ 0 foll[$ by ! banquet & ! 8v[20 & ! v[ by its fulfilm5t f ^? b>ons bold1 :o bore 9 _! own day ! /irr+ names ( ,beau*amp1 ,w>wick1 ,f]r]s1 ,g5eville1 or ,mortim]4 ,( "o or o!r ( !m might be said3-- ,at ,alis&re he 0 :an x 0 wonne4 ,ful (t5 "t he hadde ! bord begonne ,no cri/5 man s (te ( 8 degre4 ,9 ,g]nade at ! siege eke hadde he be ,( ,algesir1 & ridd5 9 ,belm>ie4 ,at mortal batailles hadde he b5 fift5e1 ,& f\ght5 = our fai? at ,tramiss5e ,9 li/es ?ries1 & ay sla9 8 fo4#dcj #dcj ,*auc]1 ,! ,prologue1 vv4 #ea1 c4 ,at ,w>wick itself1 & aga9 at ,temple ,balsall1 n f> (f1 ! ,knights ,templ>s held a preceptory1 &1 z x is likely1 aggregat$ to ! ,cov5try gild1 _h _! badge--! ,holy ,lamb--figur$ on its ve/m5t4 ,pr\d ( all its bro!rhood1 pr\d ( ^? high lords :o _h gone on pilgrimage to ! ,holy ,l&1 figur$ by ! ,/> ( ,be?lehem1 & _h done battle ) ! ,moslem1 accord+ to ! v[ signifi$ by ! swan & peacock1 ! ,cov5try gild caus$ to be embroid]$ on ! orphrey ( _! f9e old cope1 ! sev]al armorial be>+s ( ^? among _! bro!rhood :o _h swell$ ! fame ( ,engl& abroad2 & by putt+ ^? symbols--! swan & ! peacock1 ! /> & cresc5t--close by _! blazons1 meant to rem9d ! _w ( ^? fe/ive do+s :i* l$ ea* ( !m to "w su* de$s ( h>dihood4 ,9 ! f\rte5? c5tury a fa%ion grew up "h 9 ,engl& ( figur+ symbolism--h]aldic & religi\s--^u ! articles ( dress1 z we ga!r f specim5s "h1 z well z f o!r s\rces4 ,! o/ri* fea!r1 fir/ assum$ by our ,black ,pr9ce1 0 a fav\rite device ) 8 son ,ri*>d ,,ii4 = 8 flags & p]sonal g>m5ts4 ,?is is well %[n 9 ! illum9ation giv51 p4 #ca1 ( ! 8,deposition ( ,ri*>d ,,ii410 publi%$ by ! ,antiqu>ian ,society4 ,t k+'s "m _h bequea!d to him a new b$ ( r$ velvet1 embroid]$ ) o/ri* fea!rs ( silv]1 & heads ( leop>ds ( gold1 ) b\ghs & leaves issu+ out ( _! m\?s4#dca ,?r\gh family feel+1 n m]ely ! :ite swan1 b ?is cognizance ( ! ,yorki/s--! o/ri* fea!r--0 sometimes figur$ on orphreys = *ur* copes & *asubles1 s9ce 9 ! ,exet]1 ,a4,d4 #aejf1 we f9d m5tion$ a cope1 8le orfrey de rubeo damasco op]ato de op]e acuali cum rosis aureis ac o/ryge fe!rs ins]tis 9 rosis10 c42#dcb & aga91 8le orfrey de blodio s]ico op]ata de op]e acuali cum cignis albis et o/ryge fe!rs--i casula de blodio s]ico op]ata op]e acuali cum o/ryge fe!rs s]icis1 le orfrey de rubeo s]ico op]ato cum o/ryge fe!rs aureis40#dcc ,l9coln ,ca!dral1 too1 _h a cope ( r$ damask1 ) o/riges fea!rs ( silv]4#dcd ,?is some:at odd elem5t ( design = a textile is to be f\nd on "o "h1 ,no4 #gjeh1 p4 #abi4 #dca ,te/am5ta ,vetu/a1 i4 #ad4 #dcb ,ed4 ,oliv]1 p4 #cdg4 #dcc ,ibid4 p4 #cfe4 #dcd ,mon4 ,anglic4 t4 viii4 p4 #abhb1 ed4 ,caley4 ,to eyes l our own1 accu/om$ to see n[h]e b 9 ,engli% h]aldry1 & ,engli% devices1 h>ts figur$ z lodg$ b5ea? gre5 trees 9 a p>k z 9 ,nos4 #abhc-d1 p4 #dc1 or /ags c\*ant1 ) a *a9 ab\t ! neck1 z at pp4 #ec1 #bci1 & 9 bo? samples gaz+ upw>d to ! sun beh9d a cl\d1 x w\ld appe> t !y 7 b v>ieties ( ! patt]n sket*$ = ! silk5 /uffs worn by ,ri*>d ,,ii41 & admirably %[n on t valuable1 yet hi!rto ov]look$ specim5 ( ,engli% m$ival workman%ip 9 copp] & engrav+ /ill to be f\nd 9 ,we/m9/] ,abbey1 z we be=e obs]v$1#dce & ! symbolism ( :i* we n[ expla94 ,! patt]n ( ! silk5 textile worn by ! k+ consi/s ( b ?ree elem5ts--! broom-pod1 ! sun's rays d>t+ upw>ds f beh9d a cl\d1 & a /ag ly+ d[n on ! grass1 look+ "r =w>d1 ) ab\t its neck a royal cr[n1 d[n f :i* falls a long *a94 ,! broom tells1 ( c\rse1 t ,ri*>d 0 a ,plantag5et4 ,8 gr&fa!r's fav\rite cognizance 0 t ( sunbeams issu+ f cl\ds2 8 "m's--,joan1 ! fair maid ( ,k5t--! :ite h>t4 ,! latt] two 7 evid5tly meant to br+ to m9d ! words ( ! ,psalmi/1 :o says3--8,! heav5s %[ =? ! glory ( ,god4 ,he ha? set ,8 tab]nacle 9 ! sun4 ,! ,"l is my light1 & ,8 ?rone z ! sun40 ,! :ite h9d br+s to our ?\ghts h[ ! h>t pant+ = ! wat]-f\nta9s1 is lik5$ to ! s\l t pants aft] ,god4 ,?is symbolism is unfold$ into a wid] bread? ^u ! design = ! /uffs "h1 ,no4 #acaj1 p4 #ec2 ,no4 #hfbd1 p4 #bci4 ,"h1 in/ead ( ! sunbeams %oot+ upw>ds1 z if to light ! :ole heav5s1 !y d>t d[nw>d1 z if = ! individual /ag ) upturn$ gaze1 amid a g5tle %[] ( ra92 z if to say t if man look heav5w>d by pray]1 light w be s5t d[n to him1 & help+ grace1 l ra91 l ! %[] ^u ! grass to slake 8 gho/ly ?ir/4 #dce ,p4 cxx4 ,ab\t ! "t ( ,ri*>d ,,ii4 ! :ite h>t seems to h be5 a fav\rite elem5t 9 ornam5tal ne$lework "h 9 ,engl&1 = ,l9coln ca!dral _h 8a r$ velvet cope set ) :ite h>ts ly+1 col\rs 7) coll>s87 full ( ^! lett]s ,s ,s 444 ! h>ts hav+ cr[ns ^u _! necks ) *a9s1 silv] & gilt10 c4#dcf ,s ?or\ghly national at ! "t 0 ?is emblem t we believe e piece ( silk5 textile to be f\nd "h or else:]e _h its design sket*$ 9 ?is c\ntry & s5t to ,pal]mo to be wov5 !re 9 /uffs = ! use ( ! ,engli% c\rt4 ,:5 8 ord] _h be5 done1 ! weav] hav+ 8 loom ge>$ at our k+'s exp5se1 ?rew (f a c]ta9 quantity ( ! same patt]n = home use or 8 trade ) ,g]many2 & h5ce we see su* a beautiful v>iation figur$ on ! app>els ^u ! old alb1 ,no4 #hgaj1 p4 #bfh ( ! catalogue4 ,! eagle %[n all 9 gold1 ) a cr[n n on b above its head1 may ref] to "o ( ,ri*>d's ance/ors1 ! ,k+ ( ! ,romans1 :o nev] reign$ z su*4 ,! h>t1 coll>$ & lodg$ 9 its p>k1 is ,ri*>d's own emblem4 ,t dog1 coll>$ & c\rant1 has a /ory ( its own 9 ,ri*>d's ev5tful life4 ,dogs :5 pett$ & great fav\rites1 7 always array$ 9 ornam5t$ coll>s2 h5ce we mu/ n be surpris$ to f9d put d[n among ! ?+s ( value kept 9 ! ,treasury ( ! ,ex*equ]3--8ii grehondes col]s ( silk enbr\d$ ) lettres ( gold & g>nyss$ ) silv] & ov]gilt40#dcg ,tell+ ( ,ri*>d's capture 9 ,fl9t ca/le by ! ,e>l ( ,d]by1 soon aft]w>ds ,h5ry ,,iv41 ,froiss>t says3--8,k+ ,ri*>d _h a greyh\nd call$ ,ma?1 beautiful beyond measure :o w\ld n notice nor foll[ any "o b ! k+4 ,:5ev] ! k+ rode abroad ! greyh\nd 0 loos$ by ! p]son :o _h him 9 *>ge1 & ran in/antly to c>ess him1 by plac+ 8 two =e feet on 8 %\ld]s4 ,x fell out t z ! k+ & ! ,duke ( ,lanca/] 7 conv]s+ 9 ! c\rt ( ! ca/le1 _! horses be+ ready = !m to m\nt1 ! greyh\nd 0 unti$1 b in/ead ( runn+ z usual to ! k+1 he left him1 & leap$ to ! ,duke ( ,lanca/]'s %\ld]s1 pay+ him e c\rt1 & c>ess+ him z he 0 =m]ly us$ to c>ess ! k+4 ,! duke ask$ ! k+1 #8,:at does ?is mean8' #8,c\s91' repli$ ! k+1 #8x means a great deal = y1 & v little = me4 ,?is greyh\nd fondles & pays 8 c\rt to y ?is day z ,k+ ( ,engl&4'0#dch ,t su* a pet z ,ma? once s giv5 to fawn ^u 8 royal ma/] %\ld1 ) o!r emblematic animals1 h be5 figur$ 9 ! patt]n on a textile meant = its ma/]'s we>1 or t ( 8 c\rt1 seems v likely3 & ?us ! piece be=e u possesses a m ?an ord9>y int]e/4 #dcf ,mon4 ,anglic4 t4 viii4 p4 #abha1 ed4 ,caley4 #dcg ,anti5t ,kal5d>s & ,inv5tories1 ed4 ,palgrave1 t4 ii4 p4 #beb4 #dch ,froiss>t's ,*ronicles1 by ,johnes1 t4 ii4 *ap4 cxiii4 p4 #fib4 ,respect+ ecclesia/ical symbolism1 we h to obs]ve t ) reg>d to ! subjects figur$ ^u ^! liturgical embroid]ies1 we may see at a glance1 t ! "o untir+ wi%1 bo? ( ! design] & ( ^? :o _h to we> ^? ve/m5ts1 0 to set be=e ! p's eyes & to br+ z (t5 z possible to _! m9d ! div9ity ( ,*ri/1 /rongly & unmi/akably1 along ) ! gr& doctr9e ( ! ,atonem5t4 ,:e!r x be cope1 or *asuble1 or r]$os1 or alt>-frontal su* a tea*+ is put =? ^u x4 ,beg9n+ ) ! div9ity ( our ,savi\r's manhood1 sometimes we h %[n u h[1 ) su* l[ly rev]5ce1 ,gabriel spoke 8 message to ! ,bless$ ,virg9 ,m>y ) ! my/ic ?ree-fl[]$ lily /&+ up betwe5 !m2 or ! ,nativity ) ! %eph]ds or ! wise m5 kneel+ 9 adoration to ackn[l$ge ! div9ity ( our ,"l ev5 z a *ild j born2 !n "s ev5t 9 ,8 life1 ,8 passion1 ,8 sc\rg+ at ! pill>1 ! be>+ ( ,8 cross1 ,8 be+ cr[n$ ) ?orns1 always ,8 crucifixion1 (t5 above t1 ,8 uprais$ p]son l a k+ en?ron$ & cr[n+ h] ( :om ,he _h tak5 fle%2 :ile ev]y:]e ab\t ! ve/m5t are repres5t$ apo/les1 m>tyrs1 & sa9ts all nimb$ ) glory1 & among !m1 w+$ s]aphim /&+ ^u :eels1 signify+ t heav5 is n[ ?r[n op5 to fall5 b r$eem$ man1 :o1 by ! atonem5t wr\ght = him by our ,div9e ,r$eem]1 is made to become ! fell[-companion ( angels & *]ubim4 ,to ?is same end1 ! black ve/m5ts worn at ! s]vices = ! dead 71 accord+ to ! old ,engli% rite1 m>k$2 ! *asubles on ! back ) a gre5 cross ^u a r$ gr\nd1 ! copes ) a r$ orphrey at _! sides1 to rem9d ^? pres5t t :ile !y m\rn$ _! dep>t$ fri5d1 !y mu/ believe t 8 s\l c\ld nev] ent] heav5 unless made clean & reg5]at$ by ! aton+ blood %$ = x on ! cross4 ,at 8 dubb+1 8unto a knight is giv5 a sword1 :i* is made 9 ! semblance ( ! cross1 = to signify h[ our ,"l ,god vanqui%$ 9 ! cross ! dea? ( human l9eage1 to ! :i* he 0 judg$ = ! s9 ( our fir/ fa!r ,adam40 ,?is we are told 9 ! 8,ord] ( ,*ivalry10 translat$ by ,caxton4#dci ,:ile /ret*$ w\nd$ & dy+ on ! battle-field1 "s fri5dly h& w\ld /ick a sword into ! gr\nd be=e ! expir+ knight1 t z 9 its h&le he beheld ?is symbol ( ! cross1 he might =give him :o _h /ruck him d[n1 z he hop$ =giv5ess = himself1 ?r\gh ! atonem5t paid = him on ! cross at ,calv>y4 #dci ,typographical ,antiquities1 ed4 ,dibd91 t4 i4 p4 #bcd4 ,! ages ( *ivalry 7 times ( poetry1 & we !re=e feel no surprise on f9d+ t ea* "y knight 0 taught to le>n t belong+ to e article ( 8 arm\r1 to e col\r ( 8 silk5 array1 !re 0 a symbolism :i* he ought to "k4 ,all ^! emblematic significations are set =? 9 ! 8,ord] ( ,*ivalry10 :i* we j n[ quot$4 ,! "w is v r>e1 b ! *apt] on ?is subject is giv5 by ,ames 9 8 8,typographical ,antiquities ( ,great ,brita920#ddj z well z 9 8,lancelot du ,lac0 mod]niz$ & pr9t$ 9 ! 8,biblio?que ,bleu10 pp4 #aa1 #ab4 ,9 t black silk *asuble ) a r$ orphrey ^u :i* our ,"l is figur$ hang+ ^u a gre5 cross--8cum crucifixo p5d5te 9 viridi cruce10#dda x 0 = a p>ticul> reason t ! col\r ( ?is wood = ! cross is specifi$3 z gre5 is ! t9t ( dress put on by ! new-born budd+ ye>1 :i* ?us =etells ( fl[]s & fruits 9 aft] mon?s1 s 0 ?is same col\r ! symbol ( reg5]ation = mank9d1 & ! promise ( p>adise h]eaft]4 ,= su* a symbolic reason is x t1 ^u ! wall pa9t+ lately br\ght aga9 to light 9 ,we/ ,som]ton ,*ur*1 ,norfolk1 our upris5 ,"l is %[n /epp+ out ( ! grave1 mantl$ 9 gre51 ) ! bann] ( ! resurrection 9 ,8 left h&1 & giv+ a bless+ ) ,8 uprais$ "r4 ,at all times1 & 9 e l&1 ! 8,language ( ,fl[]s0 has be5 cultivat$1 & ^? :o n[ make x _! /udy w f9d mu* to _! purpose 9 ,*auc]1 especially 9 8 8,fl[] & ! ,leaf40 ,!re speak+ ( 8,diane1 goddesse ( *a/ite10 ! poet says3-- ,& = because t %e a maid5 is1 ,9 h] hond ! braun* %e be>e? ?is1 ,t agnus ca/us m5 call prop]ly2 99 99 99 99 99 ,& ?o t we>e *apelets on _! h$e ,( fre% woodb9d1 be su* z nev] 7 ,( love untrue 9 ^w1 ?\ght ne d$e1 ,b aye /$fa/1 c4#ddb #ddj ,ibid4 #dda ,oliv]1 p4 #acd4 #ddb ,works1 ed4 ,nicolas1 t4 vi4 p4 #bei4 ,7 x n = ?is symbolism = ! woodb9e1 we _h be5 q unable to und]/& :y 9 our old te/am5t>y beque/s1 ! fl[] %\ld h be5 s especially m5tion$ z we f9d 9 ! w ( ,joan ,lady ,b]gav5ny :o1 ,a4,d4 #adcd1 leaves to "o ( h] fri5ds1 a 8b$ ( silk1 black & r$1 embroid]$ ) woodb9$ fl[]s ( silv]10 c4#ddc ,besides its symbolism ( ^? col\rs--black & r$--= :i* we h b ?is mom5t giv5 ! reasons1 p4 cxlix41 ! fun]al cope :i* we notic$ be=e1 p4 cxxvi41 %[$ a symbolism ( fl[]s 9 ! woodb9e wr\ght ^u x4 ,sure may we be t ! donor's wi%--p]haps ! f+]s ( a weep+ wid[ _h work$ x = ,l9coln ,ca!dral--0 to tell = h] 9 aft] days ! unfalt]+ love %e ev] bore t[>ds h] husb&1 & to say s e "t ?is ve/m5t happ5$ to be worn at ! s]vices s\nd$ = him4 ,may be t qua9t old lik5ess ( ,anne ,vavas\r1 exhibit$ "h ,a4,d4 #ahfh among ! 8,national ,portraits10 & numb]$ #fhj1 p4 #ach ( ! ,catalogue1 _h its backgr\nd trail$ all ov] ) bran*es ( ! woodb9e 9 leaf1 at ! p>ticul> behe/ ( a fond sp\se ,sir ,h4 ,lee1 & s manag$ t ! plant's only cyme ( fl[] %\ld hang j bel[ h] bosom4 ,by ,%akespe>e floral symbolism 0 well und]/ood2 & he (t5 %[s 8 k ( x 9 8,a ,w9t]'s ,tale10 act iv4 sc5e iii4 ,he gives u sev]al mean+s ( fl[]-spee*1 & :5 he makes 7,h5ry ,,viii4 act iv4 sc5e ii47 ,que5 ,ka!r9e say to ,griffi? 8,f>ewell--:5 ,i am dead--/rew me ov] ) maid5 fl[]s1 t all ! _w may "k ,i 0 a *a/e wife to my grave10 he tells ( an old5 cu/om /ill kept up among u1 & m fully c>ri$ out 9 ,wales & ! ,we/]n p>ts ( ,engl&1 :]e ! grave ( a de> dep>t$ "o is weekly dress$ by lov+ h&s ) ! prettie/ fl[]s t may be _h4 ,! symbolism ( col\rs is le>n$ly treat$ by ,portal 9 8 8,c\leurs ,symboliques40 ,! read]s ( ^? valuable inv5tories ( ! *asubles1 copes1 & o!r liturgical silk g>m5ts :i* belong$ to ,exet] ca!dral & t ( ,london1 ab\t ! middle ( ! ?irte5? c5tury1 w n fail to obs]ve t "s ( !m bore1 among/ o!r animals1 ! horse1 & fi% ( diff]5t sorts1 nay1 porpoises figur$ on !m3 8una capa de palla cum porphesiis et leonibus deauratis10#ddd 8due cape de palla cum equis et avibus10#dde 8unum pulv9> breudatum avibus1 piscibus et be/iis10#ddf 8capa de quodam panno ,t>sico1 viridis coloris cum pluribus piscibus et rosis aurifilo contextis40#ddg ,ev5 "h1 "u ,no4 #hbbi1 p4 #aea1 we h f ! ,ea/ a small %r$ ( crimson silk1 :i* %[s on x a flat-%ap$ fi%4 ,if to "s m9ds x be a subject ( wond]m5t t1 amid fl[]s & fruits1 n only birds & bea/s--elephants includ$--b su* odd ?+s z fi%1 ev5 ! porpoise1 are to be f\nd repres5t$ ^u textiles *os5 = ! s]vice ( ! alt>1 !y %\ld le>n t all su* /uffs 7 gladly put to ?is v use = ! symbolism !y c>ri$1 by accid5t1 ab\t !m4 ,!n1 z n[1 ! cl]gy _h to say1 & ! p to li/5 daily to t canticle3 8,o all ye works ( ! ,"l1 bless ye ! ,"l2 ,o ye angels ( ! ,"l1 ,o ye :ales1 & all t move 9 ! wat]s1 ,o ye f[ls ( ! air1 ,o all ye bea/s & cattle1 bless ye ! ,"l & magnify ,him = ev]60 ,n m]ely *ur*m51 b ! lay folks1 deem$ x b fitt+ t :ile ! pray] above 0 be+ (f]$ up1 an emphasis %\ld be giv5 to its words by ! v g>m5t worn by ! celebrant z he utt]$ !m4 #ddc ,te/4 ,vet4 i4 #bbh4 #ddd ,oliv]'s ,exet]1 p4 #bii4 #dde ,ibid4 #ddf ,/4 ,paul's1 p4 #caf4 #ddg ,ibid4 p4 #cah4 ,,section ,,viii4--,,lit]ature ,,& ,,languages4 ,= ^? :o be/[ _! att5tion ^u ,lit]ature & ,languages1 ?is collection mu/ h1 at times1 an especial value1 :i*ev] way _! *oice may lead !m1 :e!r t[>ds subjects ( biblical1 classic or m$ival /udy3 pro(s ( ?is1 we ?9k1 may be ga!r$1 up & d[n ! :ole ( ?is 8,introduction40 ,) reg>d to our own c\ntry1 we deem x q impossible = any "o among u to prop]ly "k ! do+s1 9 private & 9 public1 ?r\gh\t ?is l& 9 by-gone days1 or to take 9 all ! beauty ( _m a passage 9 our prose writ]s1 mu* less und]/& sev]al p>ticul>s 9 ! poetry ( ! middle ages1 )\t an acqua9tance1 su* z may be made "h1 ) ! textiles & ne$lework ( t p]iod4 ,to ! /ud5t ( languages1 x may seem1 at fir/ sight1 t he w h no?+ to le>n by com+ hi!r4 ,:5 he looks at ^? two v curi\s & int]e/+ pieces1 ,nos4 #abig1 p4 #bif2 #adfe1 p4 #bih1 & has read ! scrolls trac$ ^u !m1 he may p]haps1 if he be 9 se>* ( ! old] =ms ( ,g]man spee*1 h to *ange 8 m9d3 ( ! words1 s (t5 to be met ) "h1 9 real or pret5d$ ,arabic1 we say no?+4 ,to almo/ e "o among our ,engli% /ud5ts ( languages !re is "o inscription done 9 ne$lework q unreadable4 ,at ,no4 #hbgh1 p4 #agj1 go+ r\nd ! f\r sides ( ?is liturgical appliance1 are s5t5ces 9 ,greek1 borr[$ f ! ritual1 b hidd5 to ! ,greek s*ol>'s eye1 "u ! s-call$ ,cyrillian "*4 ,t[>d ! second half ( ! n9? c5tury1 a monk1 kn[n 9 8 cloi/] "u ! "n ( ,con/ant9e1 b aft]w>ds1 :5 a bi%op1 z ,cyrillus1 became e>ne/ly wi%ful ( br++ all ! _m tribes ( ! ,sclavonic race to a k ( ,*ri/ianity2 & w>m+ 9 ! he>t ( 8 bro!r ,me?odius a l hope1 !y bo? be?\ght !mselves1 ! soon] to succe$1 ( inv5t+ an alphabet :i* %\ld be bett] adapt$ = t purpose ?an ei!r ! ,greek or ! ,lat9 "o2 & because its inv5tion is ow+1 = ! great] "p1 to ,/4 ,cyril1 x imm$iately took1 & /ill keeps1 its "n f him1 & is n[ d5om9at$ ,cyrillian4 ,( ?is inv5tion we are told by ,pope ,john ,,viii4 to :om ! two bro!rs _h gone toge!r1 to ask au?ority & crave 8 bless+ = _! und]tak+3 8,lett]as ,sclavonicas1 a ,con/ant9o quodam philosopho rep]tas1 quibus ,deo laudes debit resonant4 ,ep4 ad ,svaplukum1 apud ,dobr[sky1 ,in/itutiones ,l+u ,slavic40 ,?is great & successful mission>y took n any ,go?ic1 b a ,greek model = 8 lett]s1 z is %[n by ,dobr[sky4 ,! ,sclaves :o foll[ ! ,greek rite1 use ! ,cyrillian lett]s 9 _! liturgical books1 :ile ^? ( ! same p :o use ! ,lat9 rite employ1 9 _! s]vice1 ! ,glagolitic alphabet1 :i* 0 drawn up 9 ! ?irte5? c5tury4 ,! probability is t ?is latt]--a modification ( ! ,cyrillian1 is no old] ?an t p]iod1 & is n f ! h&1 z suppos$ by "s1 ( ,/4 ,j]om4 ,a %ort "t ago1 ! ,sclaves celebrat$ ) great spl5d\r ! ?\s&? anniv]s>y ( ,/4 ,cyril1 to :om !y owe _! ,*ri/ianity & _! alphabet2 & among ! beautiful wall pa9t+s lately br\ght to light 9 ! l[] *ur* ( ,/4 ,clem5t at ,rome1 by ! zeal\s lab\rs ( ,fa!r ,malooly1 an ,iri% ,dom9ican1 ! translation ( ,/4 ,cyril's body f ! ,vatican1 to t *ur*1 is figur$4 ,,section ,,ix4--,,h]aldry1 ,& h[ ! appe>ance ( x1 real or imag9$1 "u any %ape1 & ^u ve/m5ts1 0 made available1 aft] diff]5t ways1 9 our law-c\rts1 ask = & %all h a pass+ notice4 ,at ! end ( ! f\rte5? c5tury1 !re arose1 betwe5 ! noble h\ses ( ,scrope & ,grosv5or1 a diff]5ce ab\t ! legal "r ( be>+ on _! respective %ields ! b5d or on a field azure2 & ! suit 0 c>ri$ to ! ,c\rt ( ,hon\r :i* sat at ,we/m9/]1 & commission]s 7 s5t ab\t ! c\ntry = ! purpose ( ga!r+ evid5ce4 ,besides a num]\s body ( ! nobility1 sev]al di/+ui%$ *ur*m5 7 exam9$2 & _! depositions are curi\s4 ,john1 ,abbot ( ,/4 ,aga?a1 9 ,ri*mond%ire1 said ! arms 7,azure1 a b5d or1 ! be>+ ( ! ,scrope family :o cont5d$ aga9/ its assumption by ! ,grosv5ors7 7 on a corporas case belong+ to ! *ur* ( 8 mona/]y1 ( :i* ! ,scropes 7 deem$ ! second f\nd]s4#ddh ,john de ,cl[or!1 sub-prior ( ,w>tre1 exhibit$ be=e ! commission]s an amice embroid]$ on r$ velvet ) leop>ds & griffons or1 betwe5 :i* are sewn 9 silk1 9 ?ree pieces1 ?ree esco*5s ) ! entire arms ( ,sir ,ri*>d ,scrope !re91 viz4--azure a b5d or4#ddi ,william1 ,prior ( ,lan]co/1 said !y _h 9 _! *ur* ! same arms embroid]$ on ! morse ( a cope4#dej ,sir ,simon1 p>son ( ,w5slay 7^: f9e grave brass may be se5 9 ! 8,*ur* ( ,our ,fa!rs10#dea7 plac$ be=e ! commission]s an albe ) flaps1 ^u :i* 7 embroid]$ ! arms ( ! ,scropes entire1 c4#deb ,! ,scropes 7 ! patrons ( t liv+4 ,?omas de ,cotyngham1 prior ( ! ,abbey ( ,/4 ,m>y1 ,york1 said t !y _h ve/m5ts ) ! ,scrope arms ^u !m4#dec ,sir ,john de ,manfeld1 p>son ( ! ,*ur* ( ,/4 ,m>y sur ,ry*ille1 9 ,york1 said t 9 ! *ur* 7 div]se ve/m5ts on :i* 7 sewn1 9 silk1 ! entire arms ( ,scrope4#ded ,sir ,b]tram ,m\ntb\*] said t ^! arms ( ! ,scropes 7 to be se5 on ve/m5ts1 c41 9 ! abbey & *ur*es :]e ,sir ,r4 ,scrope 0 born4#dee ,n ! lea/ rem>kable individual :o bore evid5ce on ! subject 0 ! poet ,*auc]1 :o 0 produc$ on behalf ( ,sir ,ri*>d ,scrope4 ,:5 ask$ :e!r ! arms azure1 a b5d or1 belong$1 or ought to belong to ! said ,sir ,ri*>d8 said yes1 = he saw him s arm$ 9 ,france1 c41 & t all 8 "t he _h se5 ! said arms 9 bann]s1 glass1 pa9t+s & ve/m5ts1 & commonly call$ ! ,arms ( ,scrope4#def ,= ! bett] und]/&+ ( all ^! evid5ces ! read] %\ld look at ,no4 #hcjg1 p4 #ahe1 an amice ) its old app>el /ill on x4 ,! 8flaps0 ( an alb are n[ call$ app>els2 & an old "o1 ) ^! ornam5ts ^u x1 bo? at ! cuffs z well z be=e & beh9d1 is 9 ?is collection1 ,no4 #hgaj1 p4 #bfh ( ! ,catalogue4 ,! two f9e old ,engli% app>els "h1 ,no4 #habh1 p4 #adf1 %[ h[ %ields ) h]aldry c\ld be put along ) ,scriptural subjects 9 ^! embroid]ies4 ,! monum5tal effigy ( a prie/ --a ,p]cy by bir?--9 ,bev]ley ,m9/]1 exhibits h[ ^! app>els1 on an amice1 7 sometimes wr\ght ) armorial be>+s4 ,( 8corporas cases10 !re are sev]al "h1 & po9t$ out at pp4 #aab1 #add1 #ade1 & #aid ( ! ,catalogue4 #ddh ,scrope & ,grosv5or ,rolls1 ed4 ,sir ,h4 ,nicolas1 t4 ii4 p4 #bge4 #ddi ,ibid4 p4 #bgh4 #dej ,ibid4 p4 #bgi4 #dea ,t4 i4 p4 #cbe4 #deb ,scrope & ,grosv5or ,rolls1 ed4 ,sir ,h4 ,nicolas1 t4 ii4 p #ccj4 #dec ,ibid4 p4 #cdd4 #ded ,ibid4 p4 #cdf4 #dee ,ibid4 p4 #chd4 #def ,ibid4 p4 #daa4 ,m>g>et1 ,c\ntess ( ,salisbury1 ! la/ ( ! ,plantag5ets1 & "m ( ,"l ,montague & ,c>d9al ,pole1 01 l h] son ! pe]1 behead$1 & at ! age ( sev5ty1 by _! k9sman ,h5ry ,,viii4 ,?is fact is record$ by ,colli]2#deg b ,miss ,a4 ,/rickl& m5tions x m at l5g? 9 ^! words3--,cromwell produc$ 9 ! ,h\se ( ,lords1 ,may #aj?1 by way ( evid5ce aga9/ ! ag$ ,c\ntess ( ,salisbury1 a ve/m5t 7a *asuble no d\bt7 ( :ite silk t _h be5 f\nd 9 h] w>drobe1 embroid]$ 9 front ) ! arms ( ,engl&1 surr\nd$ ) a wrea? ( pansies & m>igolds1 & on ! back ! repres5tation ( ! ho/ ) ! five w\nds ( our ,"l1 & ! "n ( ,jesus writt5 9 ! mid/4 ,! pe]s p]mitt$ ! unpr9cipl$ m9i/] to p]suade !m t ?is 0 a treasonable ensign1 & z ! ,c\ntess _h correspond$ ) h] abs5t son 7,c>d9al ,pole7 %e 0 = no o!r crime atta9t$ ( high treason1 & condemn$ to dea? )\t ! privilege ( be+ he>d 9 h] own def5ce4#deh ,! arms ( ,engl&1 amid ! qu>t]+s ( "s great families1 are ev5 n[ to be f\nd ^u ve/m5ts2 a beautiful "o 0 exhibit$ "h1 ,a4,d4 #ahfb1 & describ$ 9 ! ,loan ,catalogue1 p4 #bff2 ano!r f9e "o is at pres5t at ,ab]gav5ny4 ,) reg>d to ! repres5tation ( ! 8,ho/ ) ! five w\nds ( our ,"l10 c4 ?is is ( v common occurr5ce 9 ecclesia/ical embroid]y2 & 9 ?is v collection1 on ! back orphrey to ! spl5did *asuble1 ,no4 #hgjd1 p4 #bfd ( ?is ,catalogue1 we f9d embroid]$ ! crucifixion1 & a %ield gules1 ) a *alice or & a ho/ arg5t at top1 done 9 ,fl&]s full half a c5tury be=e ! 8,pilgrimage ( ,grace0 9 our nor!rn c\nties _h adopt$ su* a common device ^u _! bann] :5 ! p !re arose up aga9/ ,h5ry ,,viii4 #deg ,eccles4 ,hi/4 t4 v4 p4 #ea1 ed4 ,la?bury4 #deh ,que5s ( ,engl&1 iii4 p4 #fh4 ,to a ,surrey1 = w9n+ ! day at ,flodd5 ,field1 ,k+ ,h5ry ,,viii4 gave ! tressur$ lion ( ! royal arms ( ,scotl& to be borne ^u ! ,h[>d b5d z arms ( augm5tation4 ,9 aft] ye>s1 ! same ,h5ry ,,viii4 cut (f a ,surrey's head because he bore1 z 8 ,h\se _h borne f ! "t ( "o ( _! =efa!rs1 ,?omas de ,bro!rton1 ,edw>d ,i4's son1 ! arms ( ! ,confessor1 ! use ( :i* _h be5 confirm$ to x by ,ri*>d ,,ii4 ,if1 l ,scrope1 ,surrey _h be?\ght himself ( ve/m5ts1 ev5 ( ! few we h ) ! royal arms ^u !m1 & assum$ by o!r ,engli% noblem51 p]haps ^? liturgic embroid]ies might h /ood him 9 "s good /ead to save 8 life4 ,_h ! poor ag$ ,c\ntess ( ,salisbury be5 he>d1 %e might h %am$ h] k9sman ! k+ n to take h] life = us+ ^u h] *ur* furniture emblems1 !n z n[1 employ$ ^u su* appliances ?r\gh\t all ,*ri/5dom4 ,= ! g5ealogi/1 ! lawy]1 ! h]ald1 ! hi/orian1 su* ( ^! old liturgical g>m5ts z1 l ! ,syon cope1 be> armorial %ields embroid]$ ^u !m1 w h a peculi> value1 & a m ?an ord9>y int]e/4 ,^? emblazonries n only recall ! names ( m5 b\nd up = ev] ) ?is l&'s hi/ory1 b may aga9 s]ve1 z !y once be=e h s]v$1 to furni% ! lo/ l9k 9 a brok5 p$igree1 or unravel an entangl$ po9t be=e a law tribunal4 ,,section ,x4--,,botany ,,& ,,zoology4 ,by all ^? = :om1 among o!r allurem5ts draw+ !m on 9 _! /udies ( ,botany & ,zoology1 "o is ! gratification !y feel 9 le>n+ h[ _m ( ! subjects belong+ to ^! two sections ( ! natural sci5ces 7 kn[n1 & h[ !y us$ to be depict$ dur+ ! middle ages1 ?is l>ge collection ( textiles figur$ s (t5 ) birds1 bea/s & fl[]s1 w be he>tily welcom$4 ,our ,zoological ,society prides itself1 & 9 ju/ice1 ) treat+ ! ,london]s ) ! fir/ sight ( a live giraffe2 b "h its memb]s !mselves may behold1 ,nos4 #heia-ia;,a1 p4 #bbd2 #heii1 p4 #bbh1 ! e>lie/ kn[n portrait ( t curi\s quadrup$ sket*$ ^u ,sicilian silks ( ! f\rte5? c5tury4 ,we once li/5$ to a discussion betwe5 ,engli% sportsm5 ab\t ! travels ( ! pheasant f its native home by ! banks ( ! riv] ,phasis at ,col*is1 & ! "t :5 x rea*$ ?is isl&4 ,bo? p>ties agre$ 9 believ+ its com+ hi!r to h be5 some:at late4 ,be t z x may1 our c\ntry g5tlem5 w see _! fav\rite bird figur$ "h1 ,no4 #acbe1 p4 #fj4 ,ab\t ! f>-fam$ hunt+ *eetahs ( ,india1 we h he>d1 & /ill he> mu*2 & on pieces ( silk f ea/]n looms1 9 ?is collection1 !y are (t5 to be se5 figur$4 ,) reg>d to ! way 9 :i* all k9ds ( f[l1 z well z animals are repres5t$ on ^! /uffs1 !re is "o ?+ :i* we ?9k w /rike mo/ obs]v]s :o comp>e ! draw+ ( !m "h ) t ( ! same objects among ! illum9ations 9 old ,,mss4 ,! birds & bea/s on ! textiles are always v mu* bett] r5d]$ ?an 9 ! wood-cuts to be f\nd 9 our old black-lett] books1 f ,caxton's days upw>ds1 especially 9 su* works z t ( sop & ! re/4 ,figures ( animals & ( birds 9 manuscripts are h>dly bett]1 z we may see 9 ! pr9ts ( our own ,sir ,john ,maundevile's ,travels1 & ! ,fr5* 8,be/iaire d',am\r10 p> ,r4 de ,f\rnival1 lately edit$ by ,c4 ,hippeau4 ,sc>cely bett] does _! design f>e 9 illum9at$ ,,mss4 ,belong+ to ! ,duke ( ,nor?umb]l&1 & n[ 9 ! libr>y at ,alnwick ca/le is ! f9e/ ,salisbury missal we h ev] beheld4 ,?is tall ?ick folio volume 01 "s "t dur+ ! end ( ! f\rte5? c5tury1 begun to be writt5 & illum9at$ by a ,b5$ict9e monk--"o ,john ,:as--:o c>ri$ on ?is gorge\s book z f> z page #ffa4 ,f ! two ,leon9e v]ses :i* we read !re1 x w\ld seem t ?is lab\r ( love c>ri$ on = ye>s at e>ly morn 9 ! scriptorium belong+ to ,%]b\rne ,abbey1 ,dorset%ire1 _h brok51 z well x might1 ! heal? ( ! monk arti/1 ( :om x is said3-- 8,librum scrib5do ,ion ,:as mona*us laborabat2 ,et mane surg5do multum corpus mac]abat40 ,among 8 o!r ta/es1 ?is ,b5$ict9e _h t = ,natural ,hi/ory1 & 9 ! beautifully illum9at$ ,kal5d> at ! beg9n+ ( ?is full missal1 almo/ e mon? is po9t$ out by ! pres5ce ( "s bird1 or fi%1 or fl[]1 peculi> to t season1 ) its "n b5ea? x1--= in/ance1 8,ys is a ?ro/le10 c4 ,h[ev] mu* ! ?ru%'s song may h *e]$ him at 8 "w at ,spr+-tide peep ( day1 ,:as did n draw 8 bird ) half ! individuality & tru?fulness :i* we f9d 9 birds ( all sorts t are figur$ ^u ,sicilian /uffs wov5 at ! v p]iod :5 ! ,engli% ,b5$ict9e 0 at "w )9 ! cloi/]s ( 8 h\se 9 ,dorset%ire--a fact :i* may lead ! orni?ologi/ to look ) m complac5cy ^u ^? textiles "h patt]n$ ) ,italian birds4 ,= ,botany1 x has n gone s well2 yet1 not)/&+ ?is drawback1 !re are to be se5 figur$ ^u ^! textiles plants & trees :i*1 ?\gh /rang]s to ?is l& & to ,europe1 & _! =ms no d\bt1 oddly & clumsily repres5t$1 yet1 z !y keep ab\t !m ! same "*1 we may safely believe to h a true type 9 nature1 :i* at la/ by _! help we %all be able to f9d out4 ,su* is ! fam\s 8homa10 or 8hom10--! sacr$ tree--among ! anci5t foll[]s ( ,zoroa/]1 z well z ! lat] ,p]sians4 ,x is to be se5 figur$ on _m silks 9 ?is collection ( real or imitat$ ,p]sian textiles1 wov5 at v>i\s p]iods dur+ ! middle ages4 ,f ! e>lie/ antiquity a tradition came d[n ?r\gh\t middle ,asia1 ( "s holy tree--p]haps ! tree ( life spok5 ( z gr[+ 9 ,p>adise4--,g54 ii4 #i4 ,"s su* a tree is v (t5 to be se5 sculptur$ on ,assyrian monum5ts2 &1 by ! place :i* x holds !re1 mu/ h be5 held 9 peculi>1 nay religi\s v5]ation4 ,^u ^? important rema9s f ,n9eveh1 n[ 9 ! ,briti% ,museum1 & figur$ 9 ,mr4 ,lay>d's f9e "w1 x appe>s z ! object ( homage = ! two m5 symboliz$ z sac]dotal or z k+ly p]sonages1 betwe5 :om x inv>iably /&s4 ,x is to be f\nd equally figur$ ^u ! small bucket meant = religi\s rites1#dei z embroid]$ ^u ! upp] sleeve ( ! mon>*'s tunic4#dfj ,f ,f]gusson's 8,palaces ( ,n9eveh1 & ,p]sepolis re/or$10 we le>n t x 0 frequ5tly to be f\nd sculptur$ z an ar*itectural ornam5t4 ,:5 se5 done 9 ne$lework ^u dresses1 ! two animals--sometimes w+$ bulls1 sometimes gazelles--:i* its umbel ( sev5 fl[]s is sep>at+1 are %[n ) b5d$ knees1 z if 9 wor%ip ( x4 ,always ?is plant is repres5t$ z a %rub1 sometimes be>+ a s]ies ( umbels ) sev5 fl[]s spr\t+1 ea* at ! end ( a tangl$ b\gh2 sometimes z a /unt$ tree ) bran*es gr[+ all ! way up "r out ( a ?ick trunk ) ovat$ leaves2 b ! height nev] looks beyond t ( a good siz$ man4 ,nev] = "o mom5t c x be tak5 z any conv5tionalism = a tree1 s9ce x is z di/9ct an imitation ( a p>ticul> plant1 z is ! figure ( ! palm :i* occurs along ) x4 ,to u1 x has e look ( belong+ to ! family ( ,asclepiade1 or "o ( its ne> k9dr$4 ,! few ,p>sees /ill to be f\nd 9 ,ea/ ,india1 are ! only foll[]s ( ,p]sia's old5 religi\s practices2 & 9 8 8,essays on ! sacr$ writ+s1 language1 & religion ( ! ,p>sees10 ,haug tells u1#dfa t ^? p yet hold a c]ta9 plant--! ,homa1 or hom8--to be sacr$1 & f x squeeze a juice to be us$ by !m 9 _! religi\s s]vices4 ,to our seem+1 ^? buckets 9 ! left h& ( _m an ,assyrian figure 7 = hold+ ?is same liquor4 ,c ! 8hom0 ( ! old ,p]sians be ! same z ! fam\s ,sidral ,almuntaha :i* be>s z _m leaves inscrib$ ) names z !re are m5 liv+ on ! e>?8 ,at ea* bir? a fre% leaf be>+ ! "n ( ! newly born bur/s out1 &1 :5 any "o has rea*$ ! end ( 8 life1 ! leaf )]s & falls (f4#dfb ,?\gh unable to id5tify among ! plants ( ,asia1 :i* 0 ! 8hom0 or tree ( life1 held s sacr$ by ! ,assyrians & lat] ,p]sians1 we "k en\gh ab\t t k+ ( fruits--! 8p9e-apple0--z to correct a great mi/ake into :i* ^? h fall5 :o hi!rto h _h to write ab\t ! patt]ns figur$ on anci5t or m$ival textiles4 ,9 _! descriptions1 we are p]petually told ( ! p9e-apple appe>+ !re2 & at a p]iod :5 ! ,ananas1 s f> f hav+ be5 ev5 once beheld 9 ! old _w1 _h nev] be5 dream$ (4 ,among ! ,p]uvians our p9e-apple1 ! 8,nanas10 0 fir/ f\nd & se5 by ,europeans4 ,h>dly m ?an two hundr$ ye>s ago 0 a s+le fruit ( x br\ght to any place 9 ! old _w4 ,a little ov] a c5tury has x be5 cultivat$ "h 9 ,engl&2 &1 z f> z our memory goes1 a p9e-apple1 fifty ye>s ago1 _h nev] be5 plant$ 9 any "p ( ,italy or ,sicily1 nor s mu* z se54 ,writ+1 ,octob] #ag1 #agaf1 f ,blank5burg1 & tell+ h] fri5d all ab\t a royal d9n] at :i* %e _h j be51 ,lady ,m>y ,wortley ,montague says3--8,:at ,i ?\ght wor? all ! re/ 777 two ripe ,ananasses1 :i*1 to my ta/e1 are a fruit p]fectly delici\s4 ,y "k !y are naturally ! gr[? ( ,brazil1 & ,i c\ld n imag9e h[ !y came "h1 b by en*antm5t4 ,^u enquiry1 ,i le>n$ t !y h br\ght _! /oves to su* p]fection1 c4 ,i am surpris$ we d n practise 9 ,engl& s useful an inv5tion40#dfc ,z turnips gr[ 9 ,engl&1 s d arti*okes all ov] middle & s\? ,italy1 z well z ,sicily1 l>ge fields are full ( !m4 ,put side by side ) ! p9e-apple1 & its n>r[ /iff leaves1 ! arti*oke 9 bloom amid its graceful foliage1 %[s well2 & e arti/ic eye w see t ! ,sicilian weav]1 s fond ( fl[]s & nice foliage = 8 patt]ns1 mu/ h *os5 8 own vegetable1 unfold+ its beauties to him at e /ep he took1 & n a fruit ( :i* he _h nev] he>d1 & :i* he _h nev] look$ ^u4 ,9 8 description ( fruits or fl[]s wov5 on a textile1 let n ! y\?ful or unw>y writ] be l$ a/ray by old] m5 ) a reputation h[soev] high = le>n+ o!r ?an botanical4 ,"s ye>s ago we 7 read+ ) great delight a tale ab\t "s ?+s t happ5$ 9 ! ?ird c5tury1 & ne> ,c>?age4 ,?\gh av[$ly a fiction1 mo/ ( its incid5ts 7 facts1 s admirably put toge!r t !y seem$ to h be5 drawn by ! p5 ( "o :o _h liv$ ^u ! spot4 ,b tak+ "o ( 8 p]sonages to a walk amid ! hills runn+ d[n to ! %ores ( ,nor? ,africa1 ! writ] leads him ?r\gh a n>r[ gl5 tangl$ ov] head1 & %ad$ ) sweet smell+ creep]s & climb]s1 among :i* he sees ! passion-fl[] 9 full bloom4 ,n[1 z e species--save "o f ,*9a ( late introduction--t we h ( ?is g5us ( plants1 came to ! old _w f ! new "o1 to speak ( !m z gr[+ wild 9 ,africa1 q f\rte5 hundr$ ye>s be=e !y c\ld h be5 se5 !re1 & ,am]ica 0 kn[n1 is spoil+ a picture o!rwise beautifully sket*$4 #dei ,lay>d's ,discov]ies at ,n9eveh1 abridg$1 p4 #df4 #dfj ,ibid4 p4 #bde4 #dfa ,pp4 #acb1 #bci4 #dfb ,! ,bible1 ! ,koran1 & ! ,talmud1 or ,biblical ,leg5ds ( ,mussulmans compil$1 c41 by ,dr4 ,g4 ,weil1 pp4 #ahc1 #ahd4 #dfc ,lett]s1 t4 i4 p4 #aje1 ,london1 #agfc4 99 99 99 99 99 ,) "s1 !re p]haps may be a wi% to "k :at 0 ! orig9 ( ?is collection4 ,z is set =?1 9 ! 8,*ur* ( ,our ,fa!rs10#dfd "s ?irty ye>s ago !re began to gr[ up1 amid a few1 a /rong desire to behold a bett] ta/e 9 ! build+ ( *ur*es1 & ! design ( e ecclesia/ical accessory4 ,our common sympa?ies on all ^! po9ts br\ght toge!r ! late ,mr4 ,a4 ,welby ,pug91 & him :o writes ^! l9es1 & !y became w>m fri5ds4 ,:at 7 ! results to ,pug9 ?r\gh our int]c\rse he himself has ackn[l$g$ 9 8 8,pr9ciples ( ,po9t$ or ,*ri/ian ,ar*itecture10 p4 #fg4 ,to ?9k ( any?+ & d x1 71 ) ,pug91 two consecutive actions :i* foll[$ "o ano!r spe$ily4 ,:ile at ,birm+ham ,h>dman 0 work+ 9 metal1 aft] draw+s by ,pug91 & putt+ toge!r a /a9$-glass w9d[ f "o ( 8 c>toons1 a loom at ,man*e/]1 :i* _h be5 ge>$ aft] 8 idea1 0 ?r[+ (f textiles = *ur* use1 & orphreys1 broad & n>r[1 7 be+ wove 9 ,london3 ! m$ival c\rt at ,hyde ,p>k1 9 ! ye> #ahea1 0 ! gem ( our fir/ ,exhibition4 ,go+ back1 a ,g]man lady took f ,engl& a cope made ( ! textiles t _h be5 design$ by ,pug94 ,?is ve/m5t got into ! h&s ( ,dr4 ,bock1 ^: feel+s 71 z !y /ill are1 ak9 to our own 9 a love = all ! beauties ( ! m$ival p]iod4 ,:ile s glad ( 8 new gift1 x set ?is wor?y canon ( ,aix-la-,*apelle ?9k+ t o!r & bett] patt]ns 7 to be se5 ^u /uffs ( an old & good p]iod1 c\ld !y be b f\nd4 ,he gave himself to ! se>*1 & took along ) him1 ov] ! l5g? & bread? ( ,europe1 t en]gy & spe$ = :i* he is s conspicu\s2 & ! ga!r+s f 8 _m j\rneys1 put toge!r1 made up ! bulk ( a mo/ curi\s & valuable collection--! only "o ( its k9d--:i* has f\nd an abid+ home 9 ,engl&1 at ! ,s\? ,k5s+ton ,museum4 ,?us h ^! beautiful art-works ( ! loom become1 aft] a mann]1 a recomp5se mo/ gratefully receiv$1 to ! native l& ( ^? m5 ^: action1 "s ?irty ye>s ago1 indirectly orig9at$ _! be+ br\ght toge!r4 ,be=e lay+ d[n 8 p51 ! writ] ( ?is ,catalogue mu/ put on record 8 grateful remembrances ( ! k9dness %[n s readily by ,m4 ,octave ,delepi]re1 ,secret>y ( ,legation & ,consul-,g5]al = ,belgium1 9 r5d]+ ^? inscriptions ( old ,g]man ^u t curi\s piece ( hang+1 ,no4 #abig1 p4 #bif1 z well z ^u ano!r piece ( ! same k9d1 ,no4 #adfe1 p4 #bih4 ,= ! l help af=d$ ab\t ! same1 toge!r ) ^? sev]al long inscriptions ^u ,no4 #ddef1 p4 #ib1 ! writ] is equally indebt$ to ,dr4 ,appell2 &1 )\t ! ready c\rtesy ( ! ,rev4 ,eug5e ,pop(f1 ! writ] c\ld n h be5 able to h giv5 ! ,greek read+s1 hidd5 "u ,cyrillian *>act]s1 work$ by ! ne$le all ar\nd ! ,ru!nic ,s9don1 ,no4 #hbgh1 p4 #agj4 #ag1 ,essex ,villas1 ,k5s+ton4 #dfd ,t4 i4 pp4 #cdh1 c4 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration ,a ,,descriptive ,,catalogue ,,( ,,! ,,collection ,,( ,,*ur* ,,ve/m5ts1 ,,dresses1 ,,silk ,,/uffs1 ,,ne$lework1 ,,& ,,tape/ries ,,9 ,,! ,,s\? ,,k5s+ton ,,museum4 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration ,,cont5ts ,,( ,,! ,,book4 ,"p ! ,fir/4 ,page ,,*ur*-,,ve/m5ts1 ,,silk-,,/uffs1 ,,ne$lework ,,& ,,dresses #a ,"p ! ,second4 ,,tape/ry #bid ,! ,brooke ,collection4 ,,ne$lework ,,& ,,dresses #cab ,l5t by ,h] ,maje/y1 & by ! ,bo>d ( ,works4 ,,tape/ry #cbd ,,index ,i4 ,alphabetical #cci ,,index ,,ii4 ,geography ( ,textiles #cee ,illu/ration ,,illu/rations4 ,no4 ,page #hd4 ,,hood ,,( ,a ,,cope4 ,embroid]$ 7,col\r$ plate74 ,flemi%1 #af? c5tury ,frontispiece #c #abfi4 ,,silk ,,& ,,gold ,,damask4 ,sicilian1 #ad? c5tury #cg #acfb4 ,,silk ,,damask4 7,col\r$ plate47 ,nor? ,italian1 #af? c5tury #gd #acgf4 ,,"p ,,( ,,! ,,orphrey ,,( ,a ,,*asuble4 ,g]man1 #ae? c5tury #hb #acgf4 ,,"p ,,( ,,! ,,orphrey ,,( ,,! ,,same ,,*asuble4 ,g]man1 #ae? c5tury #hb #djfh4 ,,/rip ,,( ,,rais$ ,,velvet4 7,col\r$ plate47 ,nor? ,italian1 #af? c5tury #ij #gjjd4 ,,silk ,,damask4 ,italian1 late #af? c5tury #aac #gjci4 ,,silk ,,damask4 ,byzant9e1 #ad? c5tury #abc #gjdc4 ,,silk ,,damask4 ,sicilian1 #ae? c5tury #abe #ggie4 ,,silk ,,damask 7,,back ,,( ,a ,,burse74 ,italian1 #af? c5tury #ade #hbfd4 ,,silk ,,& ,,gold ,,tissue4 ,sicilian1 e>ly #ad? c5tury #aff #hbfe4 ,,l95 ,,& ,,silk ,,textile4 ,spani%1 late #ad? c5tury #aff #hcca4 ,,lace ,,embroid]y4 ,milanese1 late #af? c5tury #aig #hfje4 ,,silk ,,damask4 ,italian1 #ad? c5tury #bcj #hfjg4 ,,silk ,,damask4 ,sicilian1 #ad? c5tury #bca #hfbf4 ,,silk ,,damask4 ,italian1 end ( #ad? c5tury #bci #hffg4 ,,silk ,,& ,,gold ,,embroid]y4 ,,portion ,,( ,,an ,,orphrey4 7,col\r$ plate47 ,g]man1 #ae? c5tury #beb #hgjb4 ,,silk ,,& ,,l95 ,,damask4 ,flor5t9e1 #af? c5tury #bfd #hgjd4 ,,"p ,,( ,,! ,,orphrey ,,( ,a ,,*asuble4 ,flemi%1 v late #ae? c5tury #bfd #iahb4 ,,"p ,,( ,,! ,,orphrey ,,( ,,! ,,syon ,,mona/]y ,,cope4 ,engli%1 #ac? c5tury #bge ,illu/ration ,illu/ration ,,"p ,,! ,,fir/4 ,*ur*-ve/m5ts1 ,silk-/uffs1 ,ne$lework1 & ,dresses4 #fd4 ,*9ese ,m&>9's ,tunic ( ,c]emony embroid]$ 9 v>i\s col\r$ flos-silks & gold ^u an orange-r$ sat94 ,*9ese4 #d feet high by #f feet r\nd1 mod]n4 ,sprawl+ all 9 gold & lively col\rs1 bo? be=e & beh9d1 ^u ?is ri* g>m5t ( /ate1 is figur$1 ) all its hide\sness1 ! imp]ial five-claw$ dragon1 be=e :i*1 accord+ to ! royal fancies ( t l&1 ! lion turns pale & ! tig] is /ruck ) dumbness4 ,9 ! ornam5tation ! light blue quantity ( silk is v conspicu\s1 m especially ^u ! broad l[] hem ( ?is robe4 #gh4 ,*asuble ( crimson velvet1 ) bo? orphreys embroid]$2 ! velvet1 pile ^u pile1 & figur$ ) l>ge & small fl[]s 9 gold & col\r1 & o!r small] fl[]s 9 gre5 & :ite2 ! orphreys figur$ ) ! ,apo/les & ! ,annunciation4 ,flor5t9e1 late #ae? c5tury4 #d feet #c in*es by #b feet #e in*es4 ,l mo/ o!r *asubles1 ?is has be5 n>r[$1 at no late p]iod1 across ! %\ld]s4 ,! velvet is v s(t & ri*1 & ( t peculi> k9d t %[s a d\ble pile or ! patt]n 9 velvet ^u velvet1 n[ s seldom to be f\nd4 ,on ! back orphrey1 :i* is q /raight1 is %[n ,/4 ,pet] ) 8 keys2 ,/4 ,paul ) a sword2 ,/4 ,john bless+ ) "o h&1 & hold+ a *alice1 out ( :i* comes a s]p5t1 9 ! o!r2 ,/4 ,james ) a pilgrim's hat & /aff3 on ! front orphrey ! ,annunciation1 & ,/4 ,simon hold+ a club1 b 8 p]son s plac$1 t1 by sep>at+ ! ar*angel ,gabriel f ! ,bless$ ,virg9 ,m>y1 a tau-cross is made ^u ! brea/2 ,/4 ,b>?olomew ) a knife1 & ,/4 ,james ! ,less ) ! full]'s bat4 ,= _! great] "p1 ! ,go?ic ni*es 9 :i* ^! figures /&1 are loom-wr\ght2 b ^! p]sonages !mselves are done on sep>ate pieces ( f9e canvas & are appli$ ov] spaces left uncov]$ = !m4 ,ano!r curi\s ?+ is t 9 ^! appli$ figures ! gold5 p>ts ( ! drap]ies are wov51 & ! spaces = ! heads & h&s left b>e to be fill$ 9 by h&2 & mo/ exquisitely are !y wr\ght1 = "s ( !m are truly beautiful z works ( art4 #gi4 ,cope1 crimson velvet1 ) hood & orphrey embroid]$1 c4 ,flor5t9e1 late #ae? c5tury4 #i feet #e in*es by #d feet #f in*es4 ,?is f9e cope is ( ! same set a "p ( :i* 0 ! beautiful *asuble ,no4 #gh1 &1 :ile made ( precisely ! same co/ly mat]ials1 is wr\ght ) equal c>e & art4 ,its l>ge f9e hood is figur$ ) ! com+ d[n ( ! ,holy ,gho/ ^u ! infant ,*ur*1 repres5t$ by ! ,bless$ ,virg9 ,m>y amid ! ,apo/les1 & n m]ely ?is subject itself1 b ! crimson col\r ( ! velvet w\ld lead u to ?9k t ! :ole set ( ve/m5ts 0 int5d$ = use on ,witsunday4 ,on ! orphrey1 on ! "r h&1 ! fir/ sa9t is ,/4 ,john ! ,bapti/1 ) ! ,holy ,lamb2 !n1 ,pope ,/4 ,gregory ! ,great2 aft]w>ds1 an ar*bi%op1 may be ,/4 ,anton9us2 aft] him a layman-sa9t ) an arr[1 & seem+ly clad 9 arm\r1 p]haps ,/4 ,seba/ian2 on ! left side1 ,/4 ,george ) bann] & %ield2 "u him ,/4 ,j]ome1 bel[ :om1 a bi%op2 & l[]mo/ ( all ,/4 ,onuphrius1 h]mit1 hold+ 9 "o h& a cross on a /aff1 9 ! o!r a walk+/ick1 & q nak$1 sav+ 8 lo9s1 r\nd :i* he we>s a wrea? ( leaves4 ,all ^! subjects are admirably treat$1 & ! heads done ) ! delicacy & tru? ( m9iatures4 #hd4 ,hood ( a ,cope1 figur$ ) ! ,adoration ( ! ,wise ,m54 ,flemi%1 #af? c5tury4 #a foot #h in*es wide1 #a foot #d in*es deep4 ,?is is "o ( ! be/ pres]v$ & ! mo/ beautiful works ( ! p]iod 9 ! collection1 & is rem>kable = ! goodness ( ! gold1 :i* is s pl5tifully be/[$ ^u x4 ,x is some:at l>ge1 & ! ?ree long hooks by :i* x us$ to hang are /ill atta*$1 :ile its f9e gre5 & yell[ silk fr+e is a pleas+ specim5 ( su* a k9d ( decoration4 #edj4 ,purse 9 crimson velvet1 embroid]$ ) comic masks1 & m\nt$ 9 *as$ /eel damasc5$ 9 gold4 ,atta*$ is a crimson ,b& ) a ,buckle ( cut & gilt /eel4 ,milanese1 #af? c5tury4 #aa in*es by #aa in*es4 ,! ri* crimson velvet is ,g5oese2 ! frame1 an art-"w ( ! ,milan s*ool1 is figur$ ) two mon/]s' heads1 & two m$allions1 "o conta9+ a nak$ y\? seat$1 ! o!r a nude female figure /&+4 ,on ! front ( ! bag are appli$ two embroid]ies 9 gold & col\r$ silk1 "o an owl's head1 ! o!r t ( a full-fac$ grotesque satyr2 on ! back is ano!r satyr's side-face4 ,at "o "t1 su* bags or ornam5tal purses1 "u ! "n ( 8gibecires0 9 ,france & ,engl&1 b kn[n 9 ,italy z 8borsa10 7 articles ( dress worn by mo/ p2 & 8! v>let ) ! velvet p\*0 w n be =gott5 by ^? :o h read ,walt] ,scott's novel ( 8,qu5t9 ,durw>d40 ,! expressions1 9 ,engli% ( 8cut-purse10 9 ,italian 8taglia borse10 = a pickpocket1 are well illu/rat$ by ?is gay p]sonal app5dage4 #fbc4 ,piece ( ,edg+2 gr\nd1 purple ?read-net2 patt]n1 bun*es ( fl[]s1 ( two sorts alt]nat$1 9 v>i\s col\r$ flos-silks4 ,italian1 #ah? c5tury4 #e feet #e in*es by #e in*es4 ,int5d$ = a bord] to a dress or to a b$-quilt1 & no att5tion %[n to ! botanical exactness ( ! fl[]s1 mo/ ( :i* are seem+ly tulips4 ,a l>ge cov]let is edg$ ) a broad piece ( ne$lework1 aft] ?is mann]1 9 ! collection4 #fbd4 ,piece ( ,edg+2 gr\nd1 purple ?read-net2 patt]n1 l>ge fl[]s1 mo/ly ! same1 embroid]$ 9 v>i\s col\r$ flos-silks1 )9 scrolls & foliage4 ,italian1 #ah? c5tury4 #h feet #c in*es by #aa in*es4 ,probably by ! same h& z ! =ego+ piece1 & equally c>e-less ( botanical exactness 9 ! fl[]s4 #fbe4 ,cu%ion-cov]1 oblong1 c5tre 9 /rip$ *]ry-col\r$ silk1 ! bord] ( op5 "w embroid]$ 9 v>i\s col\r$ flos-silks ^u a net ( purple ?read4 ,italian1 #ah? c5tury4 #b feet #f in*es by #b feet4 ,! only diff]5ce 9 ! way ( ! /it*]y is t ! geometrical patt]n %[s ! same on bo? sides4 #fbf4 ,quilt = a ,b$2 gr\nd1 an amb]-col\r$ cotton1 figur$ ) a net-"w ( ovals & squ>es 9 diap]$ rais$ crimson velvet1 ! ovals fill$ 9 ) a floriation ( crimson & gre5 rais$ velvet2 ! squ>es1 ) a small vase hav+ a fl[]-be>+ tree1 crimson rais$ velvet4 ,?is is ! c5tre1 :i* is bord]$ by a l k9d ( /uff #aa in*es deep2 ! gr\nd1 primrose yell[2 ! patt]n1 ovals1 enclos+ a foliage be>+ crimson & amb]-t9t$ fl[]s1 & plac$ amid b\ghs be>+ ! same col\r$ fl[]s2 on bo? edges ?is bord] has ?ree /ripes--two crimson rais$ velvet1 ! ?ird & broad] "o a patt]n 9 %ades ( purple--all on a light yell[ gr\nd2 at ! ends ( ! quilt hangs a long p>ty-col\r$ fr+e ( l95 ?read2 ! l9+ ( x is f9e ,*9ese silk ( a bright amb]1 figur$ ) sprigs ( crimson fl[]s1 %ad$ yell[ & :ite4 ,g5oese1 #ag? c5tury4 #e feet #aa in*es by #c feet #aj in*es4 #fbg4 ,quilt = a ,b$2 gr\nd1 br[n canvas2 patt]n1 all embroid]$ scales or scollops jagg$ l a saw1 & ov]lapp+ ea* o!r 9 l9es1 "s blue & gre5 %ad$ :ite or yell[1 "s amb]4 ,! bord] is a broad scroll ( l>ge fl[]s1 among :i* "o at ea* corn]1 ! fleur-de-lis1 is conspicu\s4 ,?is aga9 has a scollop edg+ ( fl[]s sep>at$ by :at seem two ,cs int]lac$4 ,fr5*1 #ag? c5tury4 #g feet #h in*es by #e feet #h in*es4 #fgc4 ,*asuble ( gre5 silk1 figur$ ) animals & scrolls 9 gold1 ) an embroid]$ orphrey at back1 & a pla9 orphrey 9 front4 ,sicilian1 e>ly #ac? c5tury4 #c feet #i in*es by #b feet #b in*es4 ,?is v valuable *asuble is v important = ! beauty ( its /uff2 b by no means to be tak5 z a sample 9 wid? ( ! f9e old maje/ic g>m5t ( t "n1 z x has be5 sadly cut d[n f its =m] l>ge %ape1 & t1 too1 at no v di/ant p]iod4 ,?\gh n[ almo/ blue1 its orig9al col\r 0 gre54 ,! w>p is cotton1 ! wo( silk1 & t some:at sp>+ly put 92 ! design %[+ h]aldic animals1 amid gracefully tw9+ bran*es all 9 gold & wov51 is rem>kably good & free4 ,! front piece is closely resembl+ ! back1 b1 on a ne> & ke5 exam9ation1 may be f\nd to diff] 9 its design f ! "p beh9d2 on ?is we see t x mu/ h consi/$ ( a lioncel passant g>dant1 langu$1 & a griff92 on t on ! "p 9 front1 a lioncel passant1 & a lioncel passant reg>dant4 ,:5 ! *asuble 0 9 its fir/ old fulness1 ! design on bo? p>ts came out 9 all its m9ut5ess2 n[1 x is s brok5 z n to be disc]nible at fir/4 ,9 front ! orphrey is v n>r[1 & ( a sort ( op5 lace-"w 9 gre5 & gold2 on ! back ! orphrey is v broad1 #a foot #a in*es1 & figur$ ) ! ,crucifixion1 ! ,bless$ ,virg9 ,m>y /&+ on our ,"l's "r h&1 ,/4 ,john ! ,evangeli/ on ,8 left2 bel[1 ! ,bless$ ,virg9 ,m>y cr[n$ z a que5 & seat$ on a royal ?rone1 ) our ,"l z a *ild sitt+ on h] lap2 l[] /ill1 ,/4 ,pet] ) two keys--"o silv]1 ! o!r gold--9 8 left h&1 & a book 9 ! "r2 & ,/4 ,paul hold+ a drawn sword 9 8 "r1 & a book 9 8 left2 &1 la/ ( all1 ! /on+ ( ,/4 ,/eph54 ,all ! subjects are l>ge1 & )9 quatrefoils2 z mu* ( ! body ( our ,"l z is uncov]$ on ! ,cross1 & ! heads1 h&s1 & feet 9 ! o!r figures1 z well z ^? p>ts ( ! drap]ies n gold1 are wr\ght by ne$le1 :ile ! gold5 g>m5ts ( ! p]sonages are wov5 9 ! loom4 ,?is v int]e/+ *asuble has a hi/ory belong+ to x1 giv5 9 8,! ,g5tleman's ,magaz9e10 t4 lvi4 pp4 #bih1 #dgc1 #ehd1 by :i* we are taught to believe t x has always be5 9 ,engl&2 belong+ once to x 7 a /ole & maniple1 ^u :i* latt] appliance 7 f\r armorial %ields1 :i* w\ld lead to ! idea t x _h be5 expressly made = ! *apel ( ,m>g>et de ,cl>e1 ,c\ntess ( ,cornwall1 :o is kn[n to h be5 alive ,a4,d4 #abid4 ,t "t q tallies ) ! /yle ( ! /uff ( :i* ?is *asuble is made2 & ?\gh n[ s worn & cut away1 x is "o ( ! mo/ curi\s 9 ?is or any o!r c\ntry1 & p>ticul>ly valuable to an ,engli% collection4 #fge4 ,piece ( ! ,bayeux ,tape/ry2 gr\nd1 :ite l952 design1 two n>r[ b&s 9 gre5 edg$ ) crimson 7n[ mu* fad$7 ) a v ?9 undulat+ scroll 9 fad$ crimson1 & gre5 betwe5 !m4 ,engli%1 #aa? c5tury4 #c in*es by #b in*es4 ,?\gh done 9 wor/$1 & su* a t9y fragm5t ( t great b debat$ hi/orical "w1 x is s f> a valuable specim5 z x %[s ! sort ( mat]ial z well z /yle & =m ( /it* 9 :i* ! :ole 0 wr\ght4 ,9 ! 8,vetu/a ,monim5ta10 publi%$ by ! ,society ( ,antiqu>ies1 plate #ag1 %[s1 9 l>ge1 a portion ( ?is embroid]y :]e ! piece be=e u is figur$2 &1 f ! writ+ "u x1 we le>n t x 0 br\ght away f ,bayeux by ,mrs4 ,/o?>d1 :5 h] husb& 0 occupi$ 9 mak+ draw+s ( t int]e/+ record4 ,!re is n ! slighte/ reason = believ+ t ?is embroid]y 0 ! "w ( ,matilda1 or any ( h] ladies ( hon\r1 or wait+ maids2 b all ! probabilities are t x 0 done by ,engli% h&s1 may be 9 ,london by ord]1 & at ! co/1 ( "o or o!r ( ?ree knights f ,bayeux1 :o came ov] ) ,william1 on :om he be/[$ mu* l& 9 ,engl&1 z we h already %[n 9 ! ,introduction to ?is ,catalogue1 #d4 #fih4 ,door-curta91 gr\nd1 yell[ & gold2 patt]n1 9 ri* rais$ gre5 velvet1 two small eagles ) w+s display$1 & betwe5 !m a l>ge vase1 out ( :i* issues a conv5tional fl[] %[+ ! pomegranate1 surm\nt$ by a modification ( ! same fruit amid wide-spread+ foliations4 ,milanese1 #af? c5tury4 #h feet #h in*es by #f feet #f in*es4 ,?\gh ! gold5 ?reads ( ! gr\nd 9 ?is magnific5t /uff are mu* t>ni%$1 /ill ?is piece is v f9e1 & may h be5 "p ( "s h\sehold furniture wr\ght at ! ord] ( ! ,emp]or ,*>les ,v1 ^: ,g]man eagle is s conspicu\s 9 ! design1 :ile ! pomegranate br+s to m9d ,spa9 & ,granada4 #fii4 ,piece ( ,embroid]y2 gr\nd1 a br[n f9e l951 back$ ) /rong canvas2 patt]n1 female figures1 monkeys1 fl[]s1 %ells1 c4 9 col\r$ wor/$s4 ,fr5*1 late #ag? c5tury4 #h feet #i in*es by #h feet #c in*es4 ,?is l>ge "w is admirably done1 & a f9e specim5 bo? ( ! ta/e ) :i* ! col\rs are mat*$1 & ! /it*]y execut$2 & x may h be5 int5d$ z ! hang+ = ! wall ( a small room4 #gjj4 ,lady's dress1 :ite silk2 embroid]$ ) fl[]s 9 col\r$ silks & gold & silv] ?reads4 ,*9ese1 #ah? c5tury4 #d feet #b in*es4 ,work$ by ord]1 v probably ( "s ,european dame1 at ,macao or ,canton1 & exactly l ,no4 #gac 9 design & execution4 ,! gold & silv]1 z 9 t1 s 9 ?is specim51 are mu* t>ni%$4 #gja4 ,lady's ,dress1 sky-blue sat92 brocad$ ) :ite fl[]s1 9 small bun*es4 ,fr5*1 late #ah? c5tury4 #d feet #g in*es4 #gjb4 ,*ri/5+ ,cloak ( gre5 sat91 l9$ ) rose-col\r$ sat94 ,*9ese4 #e feet #h in*es by #c feet #f in*es4 ,a f9e specim51 9 e respect1 ( ,*9ese manufacture2 ! sat9 itself is ( ! f9e/1 s(te/ k9d2 :e!r we look at ! gre5 or ! light rose-col\r1 no?+ c surpass ei!r ( !m 9 tone & cle>ness4 ,few ,european dy]s c\ld give ^? t9ts4 ,9 its pres5t =m ?is piece con/itut$ an article to be f\nd1 & ev5 yet se51 9 v _m families 9 ,italy1 ,g]many1 & ,france1 & 0 employ$ = *ri/5+ occasions1 :5 ! nurse or midwife wore x ov] h] %\ld]s1 l a mantle1 = muffl+ up ! new-born babe1 z %e c>ri$ x1 9 /ate1 to *ur* = baptism4 ,9 ?is1 z 9 o!r specim5s ( ! ,museum1 !re 0 a runn+ /r+ at top by :i* x might be drawn tight to ! neck4 ,^? :o h liv$ abroad = ev5 a %ort "t mu/ h obs]v$ h[ ! nurse took c>e to let a little ( ?is sort ( sc>f hang out ( ! c>riage-w9d[ z %e rode ) baby to *ur*4 ,! *ri/5+ clo? or cloak 01 n long s9ce1 9 use among ourselves4 #gjc4 ,*ri/5+ ,cloak ( bright r$ sat94 ,italian1 #ah? c5tury4 #e feet by #e feet #aa in*es4 ,! mat]ial is ri*1 & ( a col\r r affect$ = ! purpose 9 ,italy4 #gjd4 ,*ri/5+ ,clo? or ,cloak ( murrey-col\r$ velvet4 ,italian1 #ag? c5tury4 #h feet by #e feet #e in*es4 ,! pile is s(t & ri*1 & its col\r1 once su* a fav\rite 9 ! by-gone days ( ,engl&1 ( a delici\s mell[ tone4 ,l ,nos4 #gjb & #gjc1 x rob$ ! nurse z %e w5t to ! baptismal font ) ! new-born *ild1 & has ! /r+ r\nd ! neck by :i* x c\ld be drawn1 l a mantle1 ab\t h] %\ld]s4 #gje4 ,lady's ,dress ( brocad$ sat92 gr\nd1 dull r$2 patt]n1 slips ( yell[ fl[]s & gre5 leaves4 ,italian1 late #ah? c5tury4 #d feet #aj in*es4 ,! sat9 is ri*1 b ! t9sel1 9 :ite silv]1 tawdry4 #gjf4 ,skirt ( a ,lady's ,dress ( brocad$ silk2 gr\nd1 :ite2 patt]n1 bun*es ( fl[]s 9 p9k1 blue1 yell[1 & purple1 amid a diap]+ ( int]lac$ /rap-design 9 :ite flos-silk4 ,fr5*1 #ah? c5tury4 #c feet #c in*es4 ,good 9 mat]ial1 b 9 patt]n l _m ( ! /uffs :i* came f ! looms ( ! p]iod at ,lyons4 #gjg4 ,*ri/5+ ,sc>f ( :ite brocad$ silk4 ,lucca1 #ag? c5tury4 #e feet squ>e4 ,( a f9e mat]ial & pleas+ design4 #gjh4 ,piece ( gre5 ,silk ,brocade2 patt]n1 lyres1 fl[]s1 ribbons ) tassels4 ,fr5*1 #ah? c5tury4 #e feet #f in*es by #a foot #h in*es4 #gji4 ,skirt ( a ,lady's ,dress2 gr\nd1 bright yell[1 b>r$ :ite2 patt]n1 a brocade 9 small fl[]s 9 gold1 gre51 & r$ sp>+ly spr9kl$ ab\t4 ,italian1 #ah? c5tury4 #g feet #h in*es by #c feet #d in*es4 ,a pleas+ specim5 ( ! "t4 #gaj4 ,piece ( ,:ite ,silk1 brocad$ ) fl[]s 9 :ite flos-silk1 & 9 silv]1 betwe5 b&s consi/+ ( ?ree n>r[ slips 9 :ite4 ,fr5*1 #ag? c5tury4 #e feet by #d feet #f in*es4 ,:5 ! silv] 0 bright & unt>ni%$1 ! patt]n1 s quiet 9 itself1 mu/ h _h a pleas+ effect4 #gaa4 ,*ri/5+ ,sc>f ( silk damask2 gr\nd1 light blue2 patt]n1 fl[]s 9 p9k1 :ite1 & yell[4 ,levant1 #ah? c5tury4 #e feet #e in*es by #e feet4 ,g>i% 9 look1 /ill x has a value z a specim5 ( ! loom 9 ! ea/]n p>ts ( ! ,m$it]ranean2 ! blue diap]+ on ! blue gr\nd %[s1 9 ! ar*itectural design1 a ,s>ac5ic influ5ce4 #gab4 ,piece ( ,damask ,silk2 gr\nd1 crimson2 patt]n1 fl[]s & vases 9 :ite & gre54 ,italian1 #ag? c5tury4 #h feet #i in*es by #a foot #i in*es4 ,ri* 9 sub/ance1 & int5d$ = hang+s 9 /ate rooms4 #gac4 ,skirt ( a ,lady's ,dress2 :ite silk embroid]$ ) fl[]s 9 col\r$ silks1 & gold & silv]4 ,*9ese1 #ah? c5tury4 #c feet4 ,?\gh well done1 & by a ,*9ese h&1 v likely at ,canton or ,macao1 = "s ,european lady1 x is f> beh9d1 9 beauty1 ! ,*9ese piece ,no4 #gib4 #gad4 ,*ri/5+ ,cloak ( yell[ silk damask2 patt]n1 bun*es ( fl[]s4 ,lucca1 #ag? c5tury4 #g feet #aj in*es by #e feet4 ,l o!r su* cloaks1 or sc>ves1 x has its runn+ /r+1 & is ( a f9e ri* texture4 #gae4 ,piece ( ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 dove-col\r$ :ite2 patt]n1 l>ge foliage 9 pale gre54 ,italian1 #ah? c5tury4 #d feet #h in*es by #c feet #h in*es4 ,a f9e mat]ial1 & ! bold design well br\ght out4 #gaf4 ,*ri/5+ ,cloak ( p9k sat9 damask4 ,italian1 #ah? c5tury4 #d feet #h in*es by #d feet #f in*es4 ,! little sprigs ( fruits & fl[]s are well arrang$2 & ! pomegranate is disc]nible among !m4 #gag4 ,piece ( ,silk ,brocade2 gr\nd1 /one-:ite *equ]$ silk2 patt]n1 deep blue g>l&s & bun*es ( fl[]s1 bo? dott$ ) small] fl[]s 9 silv]4 ,italian1 #ag? c5tury4 #c feet #h in*es by #c feet4 #gah4 ,piece ( ,embroid]$ ,silk2 gr\nd1 sky-blue2 patt]n1 leaves1 fl[]s1 & fruit1 9 :ite silk4 ,italian1 #ah? c5tury4 #c feet #h in*es by #c feet4 ,! embroid]y is admirably done1 & ! pomegranate is !re among ! fruit4 #gai4 ,door-curta91 crimson wor/$ velvet2 patt]n1 fl[]s & foliage4 ,italian1 #ag? c5tury4 #aj feet #c in*es by #d feet #c in*es4 ,a v f9e & ri* specim5 ( its k9d1 & mo/ likely wr\ght at ,g5oa4 #gbj4 ,piece ( ,silk2 gr\nd1 :ite2 patt]n1 fl[]s & foliage1 embroid]$ 9 gold ?read & col\r$ silks4 ,*9ese1 #ah? c5tury4 #c feet #b in*es by #a foot #f in*es4 ,ano!r specim5 ( ,*9ese "w done = ,europeans1 & mo/ likely aft] an ,european design2 9 "* resembl+ o!r examples 9 ?is collection f ! same "p ( ! _w4 #gba4 ,piece ( ,silk2 gr\nd1 :ite2 patt]n1 fl[]s & pomegranates embroid]$ 9 gold & col\r$ silks4 ,neapolitan1 #ag? c5tury4 #c feet #c in*es by #a foot #e in*es4 ,! design is ri*1 ! fl[]s well-rais$1 & ! gold unsp>+ly employ$4 #gbb4 ,cradle-cov]let2 :ite sat9 quilt$1 aft] a design ( fruits1 & bran*es ( leaves ^u a *equ] patt]n4 ,fr5*1 #ah? c5tury4 #c feet #b in*es by #c feet4 ,among ! fruits ! symbolic pomegranate is n =gott51 p]haps z expressive ( ! wi% t ! "y "m to :om ?is quilt may h be5 giv5 by a lady fri5d1 might h a num]\s (fspr+1 h9t$ at by ! _m pips 9 ! fruit4 #gbc4 ,door-curta9 ( silk damask2 gr\nd1 crimson2 patt]n1 scrolls 9 gold foliage1 & fl[]s 9 col\r$ silks4 ,italian1 e>ly #ag? c5tury4 #f feet #g in*es by #c feet #e in*es4 ,?is is a f9e ri* /uff2 x is l9$ ) purple sat91 & mu/ h be5 v effective :5 9 use4 #gbd4 ,*asuble ( wov5 silk2 gr\nd1 :ite2 patt]n1 floral scrolls 9 gre51 & l9$ p9k2 ! cross at ! back & ! two /ripes 9 front 9 gold lace ( an op5 design4 ,fr5*1 #ah? c5tury4 #d feet #b in*es by #b feet #e in*es4 ,! op5-work$ lace is good ( its k9d4 #gbe4 ,alt>-frontal ( crimson velvet1 ornam5t$ on ?ree sides ) a scroll ornam5tation 9 gold1 & appli$2 & ) sev5 armorial be>+s all ! same4 ,fr5*1 #ag? c5tury4 #f feet #a in* by #b feet #f in*es4 ,! armorial %ield1 z x /&s at pres5t1 is--azure a cross ankr$ sable betwe5 two fleur-de-lis arg5t4 ,on look+ n>r[ly at ! azure velvet on :i* ^! *>ges are work$1 x is evid5t t some?+ has be5 pick$ out1 &1 9 its place1 ! sable-cross has be5 aft]w>ds wr\ght 91 ?us expla9+ ! anomaly ( col\r ^u col\r n 9 ! orig9al be>+4 ,! appli$ ornam5ts 9 gold are 9 fl[]s & n>r[ gold lace1 & ( a ri* & effective mann]4 #gbf4 ,cradle-cov]let ( :ite sat92 embroid]$ 9 :ite1 ) a rov+ bord] ( fl[]s1 & fr+$4 ,fr5*1 #ah? c5tury4 #c feet #e in*es by #b feet #h in*es4 ,ri* 9 its mat]ial1 & nicely wr\ght4 #gbg4 ,skirt ( a ,lady's ,dress2 sky-blue sat91 quilt$ r\nd ! l[] bord] ) a scroll ( l>ge palmate leaves1 & bun*es ( fl[]s1 ) an edg+ ( fruits1 9 :i* ! pomegranate may be se54 ,italian1 #ah? c5tury4 #h feet #i in*es by #c feet4 ,! patt]n 9 :i* ! quilt+ comes out is v ta/eful2 & ! body ( ?is skirt has an ornam5tation 9 quilt+ ( a c9quefoil %ape1 & made to lap "o ov] ! o!r 9 ! mann] ( tiles4 #gbh4 ,piece ( ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 bright yell[ silk ribb$2 patt]n1 :ite plumes tw9$ ) br[n ribbons1 & bun*es ( :ite fl[]s4 ,lucca1 #ag? c5tury4 #h feet #aj in*es by #g feet4 ,( ri* mat]ial & wr\ght = h\sehold use4 #gbi4 ,door-curta9 ( yell[ silk damask2 patt]n1 /rap-"w & conv5tional foliage4 ,italian1 #ag? c5tury4 #g feet #b in*es by #e feet4 ,a bold design1 & wr\ght 9 a good mat]ial4 #gcj4 ,cope ( brocad$ silk2 gr\nd1 orange-r$2 patt]n1 foliage1 & bun*es ( fl[]s amid :ite g>l&s1 9 col\r$ silks4 ,fr5*1 #ah? c5tury4 #aj feet #aj in*es by #e feet #f in*es4 ,! hood & morse are ( ! same /uff1 :i* 0 evid5tly meant to be = secul>1 n liturgical1 use4 #gca4 ,door-curta9 ( crimson damask silk2 patt]n1 a l>ge broad conv5tional floriation4 ,italian1 #ag? c5tury4 #aj feet by #h feet #aj in*es4 #gcb4 ,curta9 ( pale sea-gre5 damask2 patt]n1 l>ge leaves & fl[]s4 ,italian4 #ag feet #h in*es by #ac feet #g in*es4 ,! sat9y gr\nd ?r[s up ! design 9 its dull tone extremely well2 & ! :ole is edg$ ) a bord] ( n>r[ pale yell[ lace1 figur$ ) small gre5 sprigs4 #gej4 ,table-cov]2 gr\nd1 f9e ribb$ cream-col\r$ l952 patt]n1 fl[]s1 butt]flies1 & birds1 embroid]$ 9 v>i\s-col\r$ flos-silks4 ,indian1 #ag? c5tury4 #g feet by #e feet #f in*es2 fr+e #c in*es deep4 ,! curiosity ( ?is piece is t1 l _m su* works ( ! ne$le f ,india1 ! embroid]y %[s ! same on bo? sides2 & !re is evid5tly a ,go?ic feel+ 9 ! edg+s on ! bord]s ( ! inn] squ>e4 #ghf4 ,scull-cap ( :ite sat92 quilt$ aft] an elaborate runn+ design4 ,engli%1 #ag? c5tury1 #aj in*es diamet]4 ,tradition tells u t ?is scull-cap belong$ to our ,k+ ,*>les ! ,fir/1 & says1 moreov]1 t1 at 8 behead+1 x 0 worn by t un=tunate ,k+4 ,! /yle ( design w\ld n1 z f> z art-wor? c speak1 invalidate su* a hi/ory ( ?is royal own]%ip4 ,its l9+ is n[ q gone4 #gib4 ,piece ( ,*9ese ,embroid]y2 gr\nd1 greyi% :ite sat92 patt]n1 girls1 fl[]s1 birds1 fruits1 & insects 9 v>i\s-col\r$ flos & ?read silks1 & gold4 #aa feet by #a foot #g in*es4 ,ju/ly may we look ^u ?is specim5 z "o among ! be/ & mo/ beautiful embroid]ies wr\ght by ! ,*9ese ne$le kn[n1 n m]ely 9 ?is c\ntry1 b 9 any "p ( ,europe4 ,putt+ aside ! utt] want ( p]spective1 & o!r ,*9ese defective notions ( art1 x is impossible n to admire ! skilful way 9 :i* ! :ole ( ! piece be=e u is execut$4 ,9 ! female figures !re seems to be mu* tru?fulness ) reg>d to ! co/ume & mann]s ( t c\ntry2 & ! %>p talon-l l5g? ( f+]-nails affect$ by ! ladies !re is conspicu\sly %[n 9 almo/ e h&4 ,! birds1 ! insects1 ! fl[]s are all admirably done2 & ! tones ( col\r are s s(t & well assort$1 & !re is su* a ?or\gh ,*9ese ta/e display$ 9 ! *oice ( t9ts--t9ts almo/ unkn[n to ,european dy]s--t ! eye is in/antly pleas$ ) ! production4 ,! embroid]y itself is almo/ entirely well rais$4 #hci4 ,piece ( ,velvet ,hang+2 gr\nd1 crimson velvet2 patt]n1 l>ge conv5tional fl[]s & bran*es 9 yell[ appli$ silk4 ,italian1 #ag? c5tury4 #f feet #d in*es by #a foot #h in*es4 ,?is piece is r a curiosity = ! way 9 :i* its design is done4 ,on ! pla9 l5g? ( velvet a patt]n 0 cut1 & ! void spaces 7 fill$ 9 ) yell[ silk1 & ! edges cov]$ ) a r broad & flat cord+1 & ! :ole--t is1 velvet & silk--gumm$ on to a l9+ ( /rong canvas1 hav+ ! cord only /it*$ to x4 #hdj4 ,piece ( ,appli$ ,"w2 gr\nd1 crimson velvet2 patt]n1 l>ge conv5tional fl[]s 9 yell[ sat94 ,italian1 #ag? c5tury4 #b feet #f in*es by #b feet #c in*es4 ,"h ! same sy/em is foll[$1 b ! gr\nd is yell[ sat9 uncut1 ! crimson velvet be+ cut out s z to make x look ! gr\nd1 & ! real gr\nd ! design1 bo? are1 z above1 gumm$ on co>se canvas4 #hda4 ,piece ( ,velvet ,hang+2 gr\nd1 yell[ silk2 patt]n1 scrolls & fl[]s 9 appli$ crimson velvet4 ,italian1 #ag? c5tury4 #f feet #d in*es by #a foot #i in*es4 ,execut$ exactly z ,no4 #hdj4 ,9 all likelihood ^! ?ree pieces s]v$ z hang+s to be put at op5 w9d[s on fe/ival days--a cu/om yet foll[$ 9 ,italy4 #hdb4 ,piece ( ,rais$ ,velvet2 gr\nd1 pale yell[ silk2 patt]n1 9 rais$ velvet1 a fan-l floriation 9 crimson & gre54 ,flor5t9e1 #af? c5tury4 #c feet #b in*es by #b feet #a in*4 ,a specim5 ( ri* h\sehold decoration4 #hdc4 ,rais$ ,velvet2 gr\nd1 creamy :ite sat92 patt]n1 ! arti*oke amid wide-spread+ ramifications 9 crimson rais$ velvet4 ,g5oese1 #ag? c5tury4 #b feet #a in* by #a foot #h in*es4 ,int5d$ = h\sehold furniture4 ,:5 hung ^u ! walls ( a l>ge room ?is /uff mu/ h _h a f9e effect4 #hhb4 ,skirt ( ,female ,attire2 gr\nd1 co>se :ite l952 patt]n1 a broad b& ( blue wor/$1 figur$ ) fl[]s & animals 9 :ite ?read1 & ! broad edg+ ( cro*et "w4 ,g]man1 #ag? c5tury4 #c feet #h in*es by #b feet #h in*es deep4 ,?is piece ( embroid]y mu/ h be5 = secul> p]sonal use1 & n = any ecclesia/ical employm5t1 & v likely 0 "p ( ! holyday dress ( "s c\ntry girl 9 ,g]many or ,switz]l&4 ,! blue embroid]y1 ?\gh ( a bold well-rais$ "*1 is co>se2 s1 too1 is ! lace bel[ x4 #ajbi4 ,an ,alg]9e ,embroid]$ ,sc>f2 gr\nd1 v ?9 canvas2 patt]n1 a modification ( ! arti*oke =m1 & ramifications 9 v>i\s-col\r$ flos-silks1 & p>t$ by %ort b&s ( brace-l "w 9 :ite flos-silk4 #b feet #c in*es by #a foot #c in*es4 ,nei!r old1 nor rem>kable z an art-"w4 #ajcj4 ,table-cov] ( l951 embroid]$ 9 :ite ?read1 ) fl[]s1 vases1 trophies1 & monograms4 ,fr5*1 #ah? c5tury4 #d feet #d in*es by #c feet #aj in*es4 ,?is beautifully-execut$ piece ( ne$lework is ri*ly des]v+ a notice f ^? :o admire well-f9i%$ /it*]y1 :i* is "h se5 to advantage4 ,9 ! c5tre is a basket ) wide-spread+ fl[]s1 ^u ea* side ( :i* is a milit>y trophy consi/+ ( cannon-balls1 kettle-drums1 o!r drums1 knights' tilt+-lances1 halb]ts1 swords1 cannon1 trumpets1 all gracefully heap$ toge!r & uphold+ a h]ald's tab>d blazon$ ) a leop>d rampant1 by ! side ( :i*1 & droop+ above1 are two flags1 "o %[+ ! ?ree fleurs-de-lis ( ,france1 & ! o!r ) a *>ge t is indi/9ct2 & ! :ole is surm\nt$ by a full-fac$ b>r$ helmet wrea!d ) a ducal coronet1 out ( :i* arises a plume ( o/ri* fea!rs2 on ! o!r sides are two elegantly-%ap$ vases full ( fl[]s4 ,at ea* ( ! f\r corn]s ( ?is inn] squ>e is ! monogram ,a4 ,m4 ,v4 ,p4 ,t4 betwe5 b\ghs1 & surm\nt$ by a ducal coronet2 & at e corn] ( ! bord] bel[ is a flam+ he>t pi]c$ by two arr[s1 :ile all ab\t are eagles ) w+s display$ & heads reg>dant1 seem+ly h]aldic4 #ajca4 ,piece ( ,silk ,brocade2 gr\nd1 :ite2 patt]n1 l>ge r$ fl[]s se$$ yell[1 & foliage mo/ly light gre54 ,lyons1 #ah? c5tury4 #b feet #aj in*es by #a foot #i in*es4 ,a specim5 ( "o ( ^? l>ge %[y fl[]$ tissues 9 su* fav\r all ov] ,europe dur+ ! la/ c5tury1 z well z 9 ! e>li] portion ( ! pres5t "o1 = *ur* use4 ,! example be=e u1 9 all probability1 s]v$ z a bi%op's lap-clo? at solemn high mass2 = :i* rite1 see 8,! ,*ur* ( our ,fa!rs10 i4 #dji4 #ajcb4 ,piece ( ,silk & ,silv] ,brocade2 gr\nd1 a br[n olive2 patt]n1 l>ge fl[]s1 "s lilac1 b mo/ly bright crimson1 int]mix$ ) mu* silv] ornam5tation4 ,lyons1 #ah? c5tury4 #b feet #h in*es1 by #a foot #h in*es4 ,ano!r specim5 ( ! same ta/e z ,no4 #ajca1 b ev5 m g>i%4 ,l x1 x seems to h s]v$ ! purpose ( a liturgical lap-clo?1 or1 z x us$ to be call$1 a b>m-clo?4 #ajcc4 ,lect]n-veil2 gr\nd1 yell[ sat92 patt]n1 conv5tional fl[]s 9 appli$ velvet 9 blue1 gre51 & crimson4 ,italian1 e>ly #ag? c5tury4 #f feet #f in*es by #a foot #h in*es4 ,9 fact ! :ole ( ?is liturgical veil = ! deacon's book-/& is ( ! s-call$ 8appli$ /yle20 t is1 ( pieces ( sat9 & ( velvet cut out to ! requir$ %ape1 & sew$ on ! canvas gr\nd1 & ! edges bord]$ ) a cord ( silk1 mo/ly :ite2 & altoge!r x has a ri* appe>ance4 #ajce4 ,b$-cov]let2 gr\nd1 :ite ?read net2 patt]n1 fl[]s 9 :ite ?read4 ,spani%1 #ag? c5tury4 #f feet #e in*es by #e feet #c in*es4 ,?is specim5 ( nett+ & cro*et ne$lework displays mu* ta/e 9 its design ( fl[]s1 among :i* ! rose & ! pomegranate are v conspicu\s4 ,x 0 wr\ght 9 f\r /rips jo9$ toge!r by n>r[ l95 b&s1 & ! :ole edg$ ) a %all[ fr+e4 #ajcg1 #ajcg;,a4 ,pieces ( ,/uff = ,silk ,sa%es2 patt]n1 p]p5dicul> b>s1 "s :ity-br[n figur$ ) gold & silv] fl[]s1 "s pla9 olive gre51 & bord]$ on bo? edges ( ! /uff ) b&s ( :ity-br[n ornam5t$ ) sprigs ( gold fl[]s4 ,ori5tal1 #af? c5tury4 #b feet #d in*es1 by #aa in*es4 ,! trimm+ & cross1 done 9 t9sel1 %[ t its la/ ,european use 0 = ! *ur*2 9 ! ,ea/1 su* silk5 /uffs1 9 long l5g?s1 are worn ab\t ! wai/ by m5 & wom5 z a sa% or girdle4 #ajch4 ,*asuble-back2 gr\nd1 gre5 sat92 design1 scrolls 9 rais$ r$ silk ?read4 #ah? c5tury4 ,sat91 ,fr5*4 #c feet #h in*es by #b feet #b in*es4 ,v likely ! sat9 =m$ "s "p ( a lady's g[n1 & = its ri*ness 0 giv5 to ! *ur* = mak+ ve/m5ts4 ,z a ritual g>m5t x c\ld n h look$ well1 nor is its gaudy r$ embroid]y 9 good ta/e = any ecclesia/ical purpose4 #ajci4 ,wai/coat-patt]n1 embroid]$ & spangl$4 ,second half ( ! #ah? c5tury4 ,fr5*4 #aj in*es by #g in*es4 ,( su* /uffs 7 g5tlem5's ve/s made 9 ,p>is "u ,l\is ,,xv41 & 9 ,london at ! beg9n+ ( ,george ,,iii4's reign4 #aaid1 #aaie4 ,orphreys = a ,*asuble2 gr\nd1 crimson silk2 design1 an angel-*oir 9 two r[s amid wrea?s1 ( :i* ! fl[]s are silv] & ! leaves gold1 "s %ad$ gre52 on ! back orphrey are two h]aldic be>+s4 ,g]man1 v late #ae? c5tury4 ,?is beautifully-wr\ght specim5 ( ,rh5i% ne$lework1 mo/ likely done at ,cologne1 consi/s ( tw5ty-six small figures ( w+$ angels rob$ 9 v>i\s liturgical ve/m5ts1 & play+ musical in/rum5ts ( all sorts--"s w9d1 "s /r+$4 ,( ^! cele/ial be+s sev]al we> copes ov] _! :ite albs2 o!rs h ov] _! albs n>r[ /oles1 9 "s in/ances cross$ ^u ! brea/ z prie/s1 b mo/ly belt-wise z deacons3 o!r "s are array$ 9 ! sub-deacon's tunicle1 & ! deacon's dalmatic3 ?us ve/$ !y hold ! in/rum5t :i* ea* is play+2 & no "o b a ,g]man w\ld h ?\ght ( putt+ into angels' h&s su* a ?+ z ! long co>se auro*s' horn :]e) to brea! out heav5ly music4 ,on ! front orphrey are t5 ( su* angels2 on ! "o made 9 ! %ape ( a cross1 = ! back ( ! *asuble1 !re are sixte54 ,at bo? ends ( ! %ort beam or transom ( ?is cross we f9d admirably-execut$ armorial be>+s4 ,! fir/ blazon--t to ! left--%[s a %ield gules an inescut*eon arg5t1 ov] all an esc>buncle ( eight rays or1 = ,,cleves2 dimidiat$ by1 or a fess *ecky arg5t & gules1 = ,,m>ck2 surm\nt$ by a helmet arg5t cre/$ ) a buffalo's head cabos$ gules1 hav+ ! %ut-d[n b>s ( ! helmet's vizor ?ru/ out ?r\gh ! m\? ( ! animal1 :i* is cr[n$ ducally or ! attire arg5t pass+ up )9 ! cr[n2 & ! mantl+s gules4 ,z if = support]s1 ?is %ield has hold+ x two angels1 "o 9 a tunicle1 ! o!r 9 a cope4 ,! second %ield--t on ! "r h&1--%[s gules an inescut*eon arg5t1 ov] all1 an esc>buncle ( eight rays or1 cre/$ & support$ z ! "o to ! left1 ?us giv+1 undimidiat$1 ! blazon ( ! !n sov]eign ducal h\se ( ,,cleves4 ,all ^! ornam5ts1 armorial be>+s1 angels1 fl[]s1 & foliage1 are n work$ into1 b wr\ght ea* piece sep>ately1 & aft]w>ds sew$ on ! crimson silk gr\nd1 :i* is ! orig9al "o2 !y are 8cut "w40 ,! angels' figures are beautifully done1 & _! liturgic g>m5ts ri*ly =m$ 9 gold1 z are ! leaves & /ems ( ! wrea?s be>+ l>ge silv] fl[]s4 ,f its h]aldry we may fairly assume t ! *asuble1 f :i* ^! h&some orphreys 7 /ripp$1 belong$ to ! dome/ic *apel 9 ! palace ( ! ,dukes ( ,cleves1 & _h be5 made = "o ( ^? sov]eigns ^: wife 0 ( ! !n pr9cely /irr+ h\se ( ,de la ,m>ck4 ,z 0 obs]v$1 :ile describ+ ! beautiful ,syon ,cope1 ,no4 #iahb1 ! n9e *oirs ( angels sep>at$ into ?ree hi]>*ies is indicat$ "h also2 & ! di/9ction m>k$ by ! g>m5ts :i* !y are made to we> 9 ^! embroid]ies2 "s are clo!d 9 copes1 o!rs 9 tunicles1 ! rema9d]1 besides _! n>r[ /oles1 9 long-fl[+ :ite albs only--t emblem ( spotless hol9ess 9 :i* all ( !m are g>m5t$1 z ) a robe ( light4 ,! bu%9ess ( ! auburn hair on all ( !m is rem>kable1 & done 9 little locks ( silk4 ,= a /ud5t ( m$ival music1 ?is angel-*oir w h an especial int]e/2 b1 to our ?9k+1 nei!r ?is1 nor any o!r production ( ! subject1 :e!r wr\ght 9 sculpture1 pa9t+1 or ne$lework1 hi!rto f\nd out on ! ,cont95t1 at all comes up 9 beauty1 gracefulness1 or value1 to our own lovely m9/rel-gall]y 9 ,exet] ,ca!dral1 or ! f> m spl5did & truly noble angel-*oir sculptur$ 9 ! sp&rils ( ! tri=ium ar*es 9 ! mat*less presbyt]y at ,l9coln ,m9/]4 ,a ca/ ( ! ,exet] m9/rel-gall]y is put up "h on ! we/]n wall ( ! nor? c\rt1 & among ! ca/s l5t by ! ,ar*itectural ,society are ^? ( ! angels 9 ,l9coln4 ,( ! musical in/rum5ts !mselves1 we see sev]al 9 ^! two pieces ( cut-"w4 ,beg9n+ ) ! back orphrey1 m>k$ ,no4 #aaid at top1 ! fir/ ( ! two angels is play+ ) ! f+]s ( bo? h&s an in/rum5t n[ indisc]nible2 ! second1 ! lute2 bel[ !m "o is beat+ a tab\r ) a /ick2 ! o!r is turn+ ! h&le ( ! gita1 our hurdy-gurdy4 ,aft] ^! we h an angel bl[+ a %ort horn1 :ile 8 fell[ angel /rikes ! psalt]y4 ,!n an angel rob$ z a deacon 9 alb1 & /ole worn l a belt fall+ f 8 "r %\ld] to "u 8 left arm1 s\nd+ ! si/rum or ,jew's h>p1 & 8 companion f+]s ) 8 "r h& a "o-/r+$ in/rum5t or anci5t mono*ord4 ,9 ! la/ c\ple1 "o ) a l>ge b[ is play+ ! viol1 a long n>r[ in/rum5t ) sev]al silv] /r+s4 ,on ! orphrey1--made 9 ! %ape ( a cross & worn on ! back ( ! *asuble1 ,no4 #aaie1--! fir/ angel plays ! pan-pipes2 ! second1 a gitt]n1 or ! mod]n guit>2 ! next two %[ "o angel1 z a deacon 9 dalmatic1 j+l+ an in/rum5t :i* he holds by two /raps1 hung all r\nd ) little r\nd ball-l bells2 & 8 companion1 rob$ 9 alb & /ole cross$ at ! brea/ l a prie/1 r++ two l>ge h&-bells2 l[] d[n1 ( ! two angels bo? ve/$ z deacons1 "o bl[+ a l>ge1 long curv$-horn1 l t ( ! auro*s1 ! o!r1 ! %almes or d\ble-re$$ pipe4 ,bel[ ^!1 "o 9 alb & /ole1 belt-wise z a deacon1 bl[s a cornamuse or bag-pipe2 ! o!r1 z deacon1 ! auro*s' horn4 ,!n a deacon angel has a trumpet2 8 fell[1 a prie/ 9 alb & cross$ /ole1 is play+ a triangle2 la/ ( all1 "o plays a tab\r1 ! o!r ! mono*ord4 ,s notewor?y are ^! admirable embroid]ies1 t !y m]it p>ticul> att5tion4 #abcc4 ,a /ole2 gr\nd1 v pale yell[ silk2 design1 an int]lac+ /rap-"w 9 ! great] "p2 = ! exp&+ ends1 a diamond 9 gold ?read1 ) a fr+e ( silk knots alt]nately crimson & gre52 ! l9+1 ?9 crimson silk4 ,engli% or ,fr5*1 #ac? c5tury4 #i feet #i in*es by #a in*es 9 ! n>r[ p>ts1 & #b in*es 9 ! exp&$ ends4 ,ano!r ( ^? specim5s ( weav+ 9 small looms work$ by "y wom5 9 ,london & ,p>is1 dur+ ! #ac? c5tury1 :i* we h met 9 ?is collection4 ,z ! exp&$ ends are =m$ ( small pieces ( gold web !y 7 wr\ght ap>t1 & aft]w>ds sew$ on to ! crimson silk gr\nd4 ,! design ( ! n>r[ "p has all along its l5g?1 at its two edges1 a pair ( v small l9es1 n[ br[n1 enclos+ a d5t$ ornam5t4 ,z a liturgical appliance1 ?is /ole1 = its p]fect /ate ( pres]vation1 is valuable2 ,dr4 ,bock says t a /ole call$ ,/4 ,b]nh>d's1 n[ 9 ! *ur* ( our ,lady at ,treves1 z well z ano!r curi\s "o 9 ! =m] ca!dral at ,as*aff5burg1 are 9 l5g? & bread?1 j l ?is4 #abcd4 ,tissue ( ,silk & ,cotton2 ! w>p1 cotton2 ! wo(1 silk2 gr\nd1 gre52 design1 s imp]fect t x c h>dly be made out1 b app>5tly a mon/] bird 9 yell[1 l9$ & dott$ 9 crimson2 /&+ on a bord] ( a yell[ gr\nd m>k$ ) crosses & mullets ( f\r po9ts4 ,syrian1 late #ab? c5tury4 #f in*es by #d in*es4 ,:5 p]fect ?is /uff mu/ h be5 some:at g>i%1 f its col\rs be+ s bright & n well contra/$4 #abce4 ,tissue ( ,silk & ,cotton2 ! w>p1 silks ( diff]5t col\rs2 ! wo(1 fawn-col\r$ f9e cotton2 design1 /ripes1 ! broad] ones *>g$ ) wild bea/s1 eagles1 & a mon/] animal hav+ a human head2 ! n>r[ b&s %[+ a pret5d$ ,arabic inscription4 ,syrian1 #ac? c5tury4 #ac in*es by #b in*es4 ,s v torn & worn away is ?is piece t ! :ole ( its elaborate design _c be made out2 b en\gh is disc]nible to prove an ,asiatic influ5ce4 ,! mon/]1 ) ! human face />+ at u1 calls to m9d ! ,n9eveh sculptures 9 ! ,briti% ,museum4 #abcf4 ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 crimson silk2 patt]n1 9 gold ?read1 two v l>ge lions1 & two pairs1 "o ( v small birds1 ! o!r ( equally small dragons1 & an ornam5t n unlike a h& look+-glass4 ,ori5tal1 #ad? c5tury4 #b feet #e in*es by #b feet in*4 ,a piece ( ?is same /uff is describ$ "u ,no4 #gjcd 9 ?is catalogue2 & ,dr4 ,bock1 9 8 useful "w1 8,ges*i*te d] ,liturgis*5 ,gewnd] des ,mittelalt]s10 t4 i4 plate iv4 has figur$ x4 #abcg4 ,tissue ( ,silk2 gr\nd1 dull r$di% deep purple2 design1 a loz5g$ diap]+4 ,s\? ,italian1 #ac? c5tury4 #f in*es by #e in*es4 ,s ?9 is ?is web t we may presume x 0 meant z a /uff = l9+ g>m5ts ( a ri*] texture4 #abch4 ,piece ( ,l951 or ! f9e/ byssus ( antiquity4 ,egyptian4 #e in*es by #c in*es4 ,:e!r ?is v curi\s example ( t r>e & f9e tissue kn[n 9 classic times1 & lat]1 z byssus1 0 ( m$ival production 9 ,egypt1 or f\nd 9 "o ( ! anci5t tombs ( t l&1 w\ld be h>d to det]m9e4 ,ano!r equally f9e & no less valuable specim5 may be se5 9 ?is collection1 ,no4 #hbcj4 ,f ,dr4 ,bock we le>n t ! sud>y ( our ,"l1 giv5 to ! ,abbey ( ,cornelimn/]1 ne> ,aix-la-,*apelle1 by ! ,emp]or ,l\is ! ,pi\s1 circa ,a4,d4 #hbj1 0 mu* l ! pres5t example4 #abci4 ,piece ( ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 creamy :ite2 design1 broad-b&$ loz5ges1 enclos+ a two-head$ display$ eagle1 & a pair ( birds addors$1 ea* )9 an oval4 ,greek1 #aa? c5tury4 #aj in*es by #g in*es4 ,x is said to h be5 a fragm5t ( ! imp]ial tunic belong+ to ,h5ry ,,ii1 ,emp]or ( ,g]many2 & n unlikely4 ,if wr\ght = ! occasion1 & a gift f 8 imp]ial bro!r-,emp]ors ( ,con/ant9ople1 ,basil & ,con/ant9e1 wor?y 0 x = _! s5d+ & ( 8 acceptance1 s9ce ! silk is ri*1 ! texture ?ick1 & ! design 9 accordance ) ! ensigns ( ,g]man royalty4 ,9 %r$s1 & ragg$ z x is1 we may prize x z a valuable piece4 #abdj4 ,piece ( ,silk & ,cotton ,damask2 gr\nd1 a yell[i% gre52 design1 l>ge elliptical spaces fill$ 9 ) ,s>ac5ic figurations4 ,! w>p is ( gre5 cotton1 ! wo(1 ( pale yell[ silk4 ,s\? ( ,spa91 #ad? c5tury4 #af in*es by #d in*es4 ,?is /rong /uff mo/ likely came f ! looms ( ,granada4 #abdj;,a4 ,piece ( ,silk & ,cotton4 ,ano!r piece ( ! same texture4 #abda4 ,silk & ,cotton ,damask2 gr\nd1 blue2 design1 circles fill$ 9 ) conv5tional ornam5tation 9 crimson 7n[ fad$74 ,greek1 #ac? c5tury4 #ae in*es by #g in*es4 ,9 "s v small p>ts ( ! patt]n1 at fir/ sight1 indications appe> ( f\r-foot$ animals1 b ! outl9es are a =tuit\s comb9ation4 ,?is /uff is poor 9 mat]ial1 & ! design n v arti/ic4 #abdb4 ,silk & ,cotton ,damask2 gr\nd1 light gre52 design1 a ,s>ac5ic patt]n =m$ by l9es 9 long loz5ges4 ,s\? ( ,spa91 #ad? c5tury4 #i in*es by #g in*es4 ,mu* l 9 t9t & /yle ( patt]n ! f9e specim5 at ,no4 #abdj4 ,9 bo? ! ,moslem's sacr$ col\r ( gre5 may be notic$1 & ! two pieces may h be5 wov5 at ,granada4 #abdc4 ,damask1 silk & l952 gr\nd1 crimson & yell[ /ripes2 design1 on ! crimson /ripes1 circles enclos+ a lion rampant1 & six-petal$ fl[]s1 9 yell[2 on ! yell[1 "o /ripe ) fl[]s 9 :ite silk1 ! o!r ) fl[]s 9 gold1 n[ fad$ black4 ,syrian1 #ad? c5tury4 #g in*es by #f in*es4 ,! quality ( ?is damask is co>se1 f ! great quantity ( ?read ( a ?ick size wr\ght up 9 x4 ,! design has no p>ticul> m]it4 #abdd-abdd;,c4 ,pieces ( ,damask2 gr\nd1 gold2 design1 9 crimson silk1 broad r\nd hoops1 m>k$ ) a gold5 floriation1 & enclos+ a lion passant1 ! spaces betwe5 ! hoops fill$ 9 ) a floriat$ squ>e topp$ by fleur-de-lis4 ,sicilian1 #ad? c5tury4 ,ea* piece ab\t #d in*es squ>e4 ,:5 :ole ! design ( ?is ri* /uff mu/ h be5 effective1 & ! fragm5ts we "h h prove x to h be5 sket*$ 9 a bold free /yle4 ,un=tunately1 s bad 0 ! gold t1 9 places1 x has turn$ gre54 ,! w>p is ( a ?ick l95 ?read1 b1 ?\gh x gives a /r5g? to ! texture1 is n to be p]ceiv$ ^u its face4 #abde4 ,piece ( ,silk & ,gold ,damask2 gr\nd1 crimson silk2 design1 a net-"w =m$ by cords tw9$ into circles enclos+ f\r ,v's1 put s z to =m a cross1 & ! me%es fill$ 9 alt]nately ) a fl[] & a leaf1 ea* surr\nd$ by a l9e l an eight-petal$ floriation1 all 9 gold ?ick ?read4 ,sicilian1 #ad? c5tury4 #e in*es by #d in*es4 ,! way 9 :i* ! patt]n affects ! =m ( a cross 9 its design is rem>kable4 #abdf4 ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 brick-r$2 design1 )9 broad-b&$ squ>es1 ornam5t$ ) />s & fl[]s1 a l>ge d\ble-head$ eagle ) w+s display$4 ,greek1 #ac? c5tury4 #ab in*es by #h in*es4 ,be+ s v ?9 9 texture1 x is n surpris+ t ?is /uff is 9 su* a tatt]$ condition4 ,:5 new1 x mu/ h be5 meant1 n = p]sonal we>1 b r = *ur* purposes1 or h\sehold use1 z ! hang+ ( walls4 ,its design is n happy1 & ! ornam5tation ab\t ! eagle ?ick & heavy4 #abdg4 ,n>r[ ,web = ,orphreys2 gr\nd1 a broad /ripe ( crimson silk betwe5 two n>r[ ones ( gre52 design1 a succession ( oblong six-sid$ spaces 9 gold1 fill$ 9 ) a sort ( floriat$ cross hav+ spr\t+ f bo? ends ( ! upright beam1 /alks b5d+ inw>ds & end+ 9 a fleur-de-lis1 all 9 r$ silk4 ,fr5*1 #ac? c5tury4 #c in*es by #a- in*es4 ,( ?is k9d ( textile1 wr\ght by wom5 9 a small loom1 we h be=e u 9 ?is collection sev]al specim5s2 & :at 0 done by poor females at ! "t 9 ,engl& & ,france1 x is likely 0 p]=m$ by indu/ri\s wom5 else:]e4 ,! fleur-de-lis ^u ?is fragm5t leads u to ?9k ( ,france2 b ,dr4 ,bock in=ms u t laces mu* l ?is 9 patt]n 7 obs]v$ ^u ! royal robes 9 :i* two pr9ces ( ! imp]ial h\se ( ! ,hoh5/auf5 7 clad = _! burial1 :5 _! graves 7 op5$ 9 ! ca!dral ( ,pal]mo4 #abdh4 ,piece ( ,silk & ,gold ,brocade2 gr\nd1 blue silk2 design1 a broad bord] ) l>ge pret5d$ ,arabic lett]s1 & a griff9787 segreant1 bo? 9 gold4 ,sicilian1 e>ly #ac? c5tury4 #h in*es by #d- in*es4 ,! h]aldic mon/]-bird "h1 suppos$ to be a griff91 is drawn & execut$ 9 a v spirit$ mann]4 #abdi4 ,l951 embroid]$1 9 gold & silk1 ) ! figure ( a k+4 ,g]man1 late #ab? c5tury4 ,diamet] #f in*es4 ,! figure ( ?is grim-be>d$ p]sonage is c>efully work$1 & ! gold employ$ is good ?\gh ?94 ,^u 8 head he we>s a cr[n1 su* z are figur$ ^u ! monum5ts ( ! "t2 ! face is badly drawn1 b ! erm9e l9+ ( 8 mantle is c>efully repres5t$4 #abej4 ,an ,orphrey2 gr\nd1 gold2 design1 v>i\s subjects f ,holy ,writ1 ) bord]s2 ! :ole l5g? figur$ ) mon/]s1 floriations1 & an inscription4 ,fr5*1 #ac? c5tury4 #d feet #b in*es by #g in*es4 ,9 all probability ?is orphrey belong$ to ! back ( a *asuble1 &1 z su*1 ! subjects figur$ 9 x w\ld f9d an appropriate place !re2 b x ought to be obs]v$ t1 9 reality1 x is made up ( f\r portions1 ! two n>r[ b&s1 besides ! long & ! %ort l5g?s ( ! middle or broad p>ts :i* !y bord]4 ,at top we h ! ,crucifixion1 :]e9 ea* ( our ,"l's feet is fa/5$ by its own sep>ate nail4 ,on "o side ( ,8 head is ! sun1 on ! o!r ! moon2 ,/4 ,m>y & ,/4 ,john are /&+ on ! gr\nd beside ,him2 &1 at ! cross's foot1 looks out a head1 t ( ,adam1 :i*1 :e!r f accid5t or design1 has v mu* ! %ape ( a lion's ) a %aggy mane2 "o ( ! symbols belong+ to our ,"l is a lion1 9 tok5 ( ! resurrection4 ,"s way d[n a female1 cr[n$ & wimpl$1 be>s 9 bo? h] h&s1 :i* are muffl$ 9 a veil1 a gold5-cov]$ cup1--v likely ,m>y ,magdal51 ) h] vessel full ( co/ly spik5>d = ano9t+ our ,savi\r's feet aga9/ ! day ( ,8 bury+4 ,opposite to h] is ,/4 ,mi*ael1 spe>+ ,satan1 an emblem ( ! great atonem5t1 z is %[n "u ,no4 #iahb1 :ile describ+ ! ,syon ,cope4 ,l[] d[n we h ! ?ree wom5 or1 z !y are sometimes call$1 ,m>ies1 ) _! sweet spices1 & ! angel tell+ !m ( ! upris+ ( our ,r$eem]4 ,l[] yet1 our ,"l's ,asc5sion is repres5t$ by %[+ ,him seat$ 9 maje/y ) bo? ,8 arms out/ret*$1 )9 an almond-%ap$ glory4 ,on ! second or %ort] l5g?1 &1 z f> z ! ,gospel hi/ory is conc]n$1 out ( its due place1 we behold ! ,annunciation1 & a little "u t subject a r[ ( f\r nimb$ & seem+ly w+$ heads1 l ^? ( ! *]ubim1 may be symbols ( ! f\r evangeli/s4 ,at ea* side ( ^! subjects runs a bord] ( gold wr\ght ) lions cr[n$1 & imag9>y w+$ mon/]-animals sep>at$ by graceful floriations2 & on "o ( ^! bord]s1 at ! l[] end1 is work$ ?is inscription--8,odilia me fecit10 9 nicely %ap$ lett]s4 ,?is female "n 0 common 9 ,auv]gne1 :]e ,/4 ,odilo1 ! six? abbot ( ,cluni1 0 born1 a son ( ! noble h\se ( ,m]cur1 &1 to our ?9k+1 x is v likely ?is ,odilia 0 a daught] ( "o ( ! lords ( t once great family 9 ! ,s\? ( ,france4 ,s worn away is ?is curi\s orphrey t (t5 ! sev]al subjects figur$ on 9 ! loom1 & n by ! ne$le1 c be h>dly made out till held 9 v>i\s lights4 #abea4 ,pr9t$ ,silk ,taffeta2 gr\nd1 v light purple2 design1 a scroll1 block-pr9t$ 9 deep] purple1 & edg$ black4 ,sicilian1 #ac? c5tury4 #h in*es by #f in*es4 ,! b\ghs1 spr\t+ into a sort ( trefoil1 are gracefully tw9$ ) a bold free h&2 & ! scroll rem9ds u ( mu* ( ! l sort ( ornam5t f\nd1 9 ?is c\ntry1 on v>i\s art-works ( its "t4 ,z an e>ly specim5 ( block-pr9t+ ^u silk1 x is valuable & r>e4 #abeb4 ,"p ( an ,alt>-,frontal1 embroid]$1 9 col\r$ ?reads1 ^u co>se canvas2 design1 )9 a m$allion1 ! gr\nd1 light blue & broad bord]1 fawn-col\r1 a figure1 seat$1 hold+ 9 8 left-h& a /aff1 & hav+ on 8 knee an op5 book inscrib$1--8,ego sum ,lib] ,vite40 ,! figure is clo!d 9 a gird$ :ite tunic1 & a mantle n[ fawn-col\r$2 b ! head is s damag$ t ! p]sonage _c be recogniz$2 ! probability is t x repres5ts our ,"l 9 maje/y1 hav+ ! /aff ( a cross 9 "o h& & giv+ ,8 bless+ ) ! o!r4 ,g]man1 e>ly #ab? c5tury1 #ab in*es by #aj in*es4 #abeb;,a4 ,"p ( an ,alt>-,frontal2 design1 ! bu/s ( two w+$ & nimb$ angels1 )9 r\nd ar*es1 be>+ betwe5 !m a :ite scroll ) ^! words--8,deus ,sabao?40 ,?is 0 a portion ( ! frontal m5tion$ above4 ,g]man1 e>ly #ab? c5tury4 #ag in*es by #g in*es4 ,9 bo? pieces ! p>ts n[ fawn-col\r$ h fad$ into su* f crimson4 #abec4 ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 fawn-col\r2 design1 9 light gre51 a spr9kl+ ( fleur-de-lis amid griff9s1 9 pairs1 rampant1 reg>dant4 ,sicilian1 #ad? c5tury4 #aj in*es by #h in*es4 ,! patt]n is n ( t spirit$ "* f\nd on _m ( ! e>li] specim5s ( ! ,sicilian loom2 ! griff9s1 especially1 are weakly drawn4 ,! fleur-de-lis w\ld signify t x 0 wr\ght = "s ,fr5* family or foll[] ( ! h\se ( ,anj\4 #abed4 ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 crimson2 design1 a diap]+ ( birds peck+ at a cone-l ornam5t end+ 9 a fleur-de-lis1 all 9 yell[4 ,sicilian1 #ad? c5tury4 #e in*es by #d in*es4 ,a v ?9 /uff ) a patt]n ( a small b pretty design4 ,:at ! birds are ) _! long squ>e tails is h>d to guess2 s1 too1 ) respect to ! ornam5t betwe5 !m1 l a fir-cone purfl$ at its sides ) crockets1 & made to end 9 a fl[]1 :i* may h "s ref]5ce to ! ,fr5* family ( ,anj\1 once reign+ 9 ,sicily4 ,! /uff itself is poor & may h be5 wov5 = l9+s to ri*] silks4 #abee4 ,%r$ ( ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd crimson2 design1 seem+ly horsem5 sep>at$ by a l>ge circul> ornam5t 9 "o r[1 & ! gable ( a build+ 9 ! o!r1 9 yell[ & blue4 ,greek1 #ab? c5tury4 #h in*es by #f in*es4 ,?\gh ?is /uff be ?9 & poor1 ! design1 c\ld x be well se51 w\ld be curi\s4 ,! circle seems a leafless b bran*y tree1 ) a l[ wall r\nd x2 & ! gable is full ( l[ pill>$ ar*es ) voids = w9d[s 9 !m4 #abef4 ,fragm5ts ( ,n>r[ ,orphrey ,web2 gr\nd1 crimson2 design1 9 gold ramifi$ scrolls1 ) bea/s & birds4 ,engli% or ,fr5*1 #ac? c5tury1 #aj in*es by #c in*es4 ,?is v h&some piece is ano!r specim5 ( ! small loom work$ by "y wom51 z be=e notic$2 & may h s]v$ ei!r = sacr$ or secul> use4 ,! b& is p>t$ into spaces by a ?9 *evron1 & ea* division s made is fill$ 9 ) t9y b gracefully-tw9$ b\ghs1 among :i* "s times we h a pair ( birds1 at o!rs a pair ( coll>$ dogs2 at top ano!r arrangem5t took place1 b no m ( x rema9s ?an ! body ( a lion4 #abeg4 ,silk & ,?read ,tissue2 gr\nd1 /ripes ( r$1 gre51 & yell[2 design1 r[s ( circles1 l>ge & small1 ) a conv5tional fl[] betwe51 ! l>ge circles r$1 ! small ones m]ely outl9$ 9 :ite4 ,greek1 #ac? c5tury4 #h in*es by #f in*es4 ,ev5 :5 new x mu/ h be5 flimsy1 & c\ld h s]v$ b = a l9+4 ,( exactly ! same design1 b done 9 o!r & few] col\rs1 a specim5 n[ at ,p>is is figur$ 9 ! 8,mlanges d',ar*ologie10 tome iii4 plate #ae4 #abeh4 ,silk & ,cotton ,damask2 gr\nd1 yell[2 design1 a net-"w ) six-sid$ me%es1 ea* fill$ 9 ) fl[]s & foliage 9 deep dull purple4 ,italian1 late #ac? c5tury4 #ad in*es by #aj in*es4 ,! well-turn$ & graceful foliation to be se5 9 ar*itectural scroll-"w1 on monum5ts rais$ at ! p]iod1 ent]s l>gely into ! design2 & = its patt]n1 ?\gh poor = ! quantity ( its silk1 ?is specim5 is v good4 #abei4 ,piece ( a ,napk92 gr\nd1 nicely diap]$ 9 loz5ges1 all :ite2 design1 horizontal d>k br[n /ripes1 ) a l9$ patt]n 9 :ite ^u !m4 ,flemi%1 #af? c5tury4 #bd in*es by #ac in*es4 ,mo/ likely ,yprs s5t =? ?is pleas+ example ( f9e t[el l954 #abfj4 ,embroid]y = liturgical use2 gr\nd1 d>k blue silk2 design1 our ,"l1 z ! 8,man ( ,sorr[s10 )9 a quatrefoil fl[]$ at ! b>bs 9 gold ?read sew$ on ) crimson silk4 ,italian1 #ae? c5tury4 #f in*es squ>e4 ,! figure ( our ,r$eem]1 wr\ght ^u l95 ) :ite silk1 mu* ( :i* is worn away1 is hold+ ,8 w\nd$ h&s cross-wise1 & a sc\rge "u ea* arm4 ,f ,8 br[s1 wrea!d ) ?orns1 trickle long drops ( blood2 & ! :ole1 ) ! l>ge ble$+ gap+ w\nd 9 ,8 side1 /rik+ly rem9ds u ( ! wood-cut to be f\nd at ! beg9n+ ( our ,salisbury ,grails1 or *oir-books1 ) ^? an!ms sung at high mass1 call$ graduals4 ,9 ,engl& su* repres5tations 7 usually kn[n "u ! "n ( 8,s4 ,gregory's ,pity10 z may be se5 9 8,! ,*ur* ( our ,fa!rs10 t4 i4 p4 #ec4 ,?is embroid]y is figur$ by ,dr4 ,bock1 9 8 8,ges*i*te d] ,liturgis*5 ,gewnd] des ,mittelalt]s10 ,i4 ,b&1 #aa4 ,lief]ung1 pl4 #ad4 #abfa4 ,! ,embroid]$ ,app>el = an ,amice2 gr\nd1 crimson flos-silk1 n[ fad$2 design1 l>ge & small squ>es1 gre51 blue1 & purple1 fill$ 9 ) gold1 & modifications ( ! gammadion1 9 :ite or crimson silks4 ,g]man1 #ad? c5tury4 #ad in*es by #e in*es4 ,?is app>el is made out ( ?ree pieces1 & /iff5$ ) p>*m5t2 & is bord]$ by a n>r[ b effective lace ( a gre5 gr\nd1 be>+ circles ( :ite & r$1 p>t$ by yell[4 ,! br[n canvas ^u :i* x is work$ is v f9e ( its k9d2 & ! gold1 :i* is ( a good quality1 is ( n>r[ t9sel /rips4 ,f age1 or use1 ! design is worn away f a great portion ( ! gr\nd1 & ! patt]n 0 a fav\rite "o = liturgical appliances up to ! #af? c5tury4 #abfb4 ,maniple2 embroid]$1 9 v>i\s-col\r$ silk1 ^u br[n canvas2 design1 a net-"w 9 bright crimson1 ! loz5ge-%ap$ me%es ( :i*1 brac$ toge!r by a fret1 are fill$ 9 ) a gr\nd alt]nately yell[ *>g$ ) modifications ( ! gammadion 9 blue1 & gre51 ) ! same figure 9 :ite void$ crimson4 ,! extremities are clo? ( gold1 bo? edg$ ) a p>ti-col\r$ fr+e1 & "o figur$ ) a lion 9 gold on a crimson field4 ,g]man1 #ad? c5tury4 #c feet #aa in*es by #c in*es4 #abfc4 ,napk9 ( l95 embroid]$ 9 :ite ?read2 gr\nd1 pla9 :ite l952 design1 a conv5tional rectangul> floriation1 fill$ 9 ) o!r floriations1 & 9 ! middle an eight-petal$ fl[]1 & 9 ! squ>e int]v5+ spaces outside a fleur-de-lis %oot+ out ( ea* corn]1 all 9 :ite broad ?read4 ,g]man1 late #ad? c5tury4 #bc in*es by #ac in*es4 ,l _m o!r examples ( ! k9d1 ! pres5t "o c %[ its elaborate & beautifully-execut$ design only by be+ held up to ! light1 :5 x comes =? 9 p]fection4 #abfd4 ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 crimson2 design1 a net-"w 9 broad b&s ( yell[ silk & gold wr\ght l twi/$ cords1 & ! me%es1 :i* are wrea!d inside ) a gre5 g>l& be>+ gre5 & :ite fl[]s1 fill$ 9 ) a conv5tional arti*oke 9 yell[ silk mix$ ) gold ?read1 & edg$ ) a gre5 & :ite bord]4 ,spani%1 e>ly #af? c5tury4 #ag in*es by #ae in*es4 ,z a furniture-/uff1 ?is mu/ h be5 v effective2 & f ! "u side be+ ?ickly pla/]$ ) /rong glue1 ! la/ s]vice ( ! pres5t piece w\ld seem to h be5 = ! decoration ( ! wall ( "s room4 #abfe4 ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 deep blue1 or violet2 design1 a spr9kl+ ( small />s & r[s ( l>ge angels1 "s issu+ f cl\ds & sw++ ?uribles 9 ! left h&1 o!rs kneel+ 9 wor%ip ) uplift$ h&s1 be>+ cr[ns ( ?orns1 & ! la/ r[ kneel+ & hold+ up be=e !m a cross ( ! ,lat9 %ape4 ,flor5t9e1 late #ad? c5tury4 #ba in*es by #ac in*es4 ,f its =m ?is piece seems to h be5 cut (f f a *asuble2 & ! /uff itself1 x is likely1 0 wov5 expressly = ! purple ve/m5ts worn 9 ,l5t1 & m p>ticul>ly dur+ ,passion "t4 ,at ,no4 #gjgb ano!r portion ( ! same damask is describ$4 #abff4 ,triangul> ,piece ( ,yell[ ,silk2 gr\nd1 light yell[2 design1 a nett+ fill$ 9 ) eight-petal$ roses & circles enclos+ o!r fl[]s1 all 9 :ite4 ,greek1 #ad? c5tury4 #i in*es4 ,l9$ z x is ) /\t blue canvas1 ?is piece may h be5 9 liturgical use1 &1 9 all likelihood1 s]v$ z ! hood to "s boy-bi%op's cope4 ,ab\t ! boy-bi%op himself & 8 functions1 accord+ to our old ,salisbury ,rite1 see 8,*ur* ( ,our ,fa!rs10 t4 iv4 p4 #bae4 #abfg4 ,tissue1 silk ^u l952 gr\nd1 :ite2 design1 broad circles fill$ 9 ) floriat$ ornam5tation1 be>+ 9 ! middle a five-petal$ purple fl[]4 ,italian1 e>ly #ad? c5tury4 #g in*es by #c in*es4 #abfg;,a4 ,ano!r ,piece ( ! same ,tissue4 #ab in*es by #b in*es4 ,! ?read 9 ! w>p ( ?is /uff is m ?an usually ?ick2 & s sp>+ly is ! silk employ$ on its patt]n1 t 9 its be/ days x c\ld h look$ b poor4 #abfh4 ,silk & ,cotton ,damask2 gr\nd1 yell[ silk mix$ ) cotton2 design1 a spr9kl+ ( eight-ray$ void$ />s1 9 dusky purple4 ,italian1 #ad? c5tury4 #e in*es by #b in*es4 ,a ?9 /uff = l9+s4 #abfi4 ,silk & ,gold ,damask2 gr\nd1 light fawn-col\r 9 silk2 design1 a l>ge conv5tional fl[] enclos+ ano!r fl[] ( ! same "*1 :i* is fill$ 9 ) a d\ble-head$ eagle display$1 & ! spaces betwe5 ! l>ge fl[]s diap]$ ) foliage %oot+ f a sort ( fir-cone1 at ! top ( :i* are birds 9 pairs hov]+ ov] ! plant & hav+ a long fea!r droop+ f ! head1 all 9 gold ?read4 ,sicilian1 e>ly #ad? c5tury4 #aj in*es by #i in*es4 ,illu/ration3 #abfi4 ,,silk ,,& ,,gold ,,damask4 ,sicilian1 #ad? c5tury4 ,v9c5t ,brooks ,day ,son1 ,li?4 ,?\gh n s spirit$ 9 ! draw+ ( its patt]n1 & ! gold s poor & bad t x has become almo/ lo/ to ! eye1 ?is /uff is a valuable item 9 ! collection4 ,! eagle1 ) its d\ble head1 & w+s display$1 w\ld lead to ! belief t x _h be5 wr\ght to ! ord] ( "s emp]or ( ,g]many1 or = "s ,sicilian nobleman :o *]i%$ a love = ! h\se ( ,hoh5/auf54 #abgj4 ,"p ( a ,maniple2 gr\nd1 clo? ( gold2 design1 9 ne$lework1 ,/4 ,blase & ,/4 ,/eph54 ,engli% or ,fr5*1 #ac? c5tury4 #ab in*es by #f in*es4 ,bo? ) reg>d to its gold5 clo?1 & ! figures ^u x1 ?is piece is v valuable4 ,! /uff is ( t k9d :i* our c\ntryman1 ,john ,g>l&1 tells u 0 wr\ght by "y wom5 at 8 "t1 & %[s1 9 its gr\nd+1 a pretty zig-zag patt]n4 ,! two kneel+ figures1 ?\gh done 9 m]e outl9e ( ! scantie/ sort1 display an ease & gracefulness peculi> to ! sculpture & illum9ations 9 ,engl& & ,france ( t p]iod4 ,/4 ,blase is %[n u ve/$ 9 8 *asuble & mitre--l[ 9 =m--) a v long grey be>d1 & hold+ a comb 9 "o h&--! in/rum5t ( 8 m>tyrdom2 ,/4 ,/eph5 is rob$ z a deacon1 & kneel+ amid a %[] ( l>ge r\nd /ones1 pelt$ at him on all sides4 #abga4 ,silk & ,gold ,damask2 gr\nd1 light gre5 silk2 design1 griff9s passant & fleur-de-lis 9 "o r[1 fleur-de-lis & slipp$ v9e-leaves aris+ f two t5drils =m$ l ! lett] ,c1 & put back to back1 all 9 gold4 ,sicilian1 #ad? c5tury4 #ab in*es by #g in*es4 ,! :ole ( ?is patt]n is ?r[n (f ) great fre$om1 & an h]aldic eye w see ! boldness ( ! griff9s4 ,! v9e-leaves are z crispy z any ev] se5 ^u su* /uffs1 & ! :ole does cr$it to ! royal looms ( ,pal]mo1 :]e x 0 probably wr\ght at ! comm& ( ! pr9ce1 = himself1 or z a gift to "s ,fr5* royalty4 ,an exactly simil> /uff to ?is may be f\nd at ,no4 #gjfa2 & x is said t ! robes n[ %[n at ,neuburg1 ne> ,vi5na1 are traditionally believ$ to h be5 worn1 at 8 m>riage1 by ,leopold ! ,holy4 #abgb4 ,silk & ,cotton ,/uff2 gr\nd1 light purple cotton2 design1 small b ?ick foliage1 int]sp]s$ ) birds ( v>i\s k9ds1 9 pairs & face to face1 9 amb]-col\r$ silk4 ,sicilian1 #ad? c5tury4 #i in*es by #g in*es4 ,?\gh s small 9 its elem5ts1 ?is is a pleas+ design1 & extremely well drawn1 l all ^? f ,pal]mo4 #abgc4 ,silk & ,cotton ,damask2 gr\nd1 ( cotton1 a light orange2 design1 )9 a t5-cusp$ circle1 & divid$ by ! ?9 trunk ( a tree1 two cocks1 face to face1 all 9 gold ?read1 ^u a purpli% crimson gr\nd1 & betwe5 ! circles an ornam5tation 9 :i* a small cr[n tipp$ ) fleur-de-lis1 ov] a lion passant g>dant1 is v frequ5t 9 gold4 ,sicilian1 late #ad? c5tury1 #aj in*es by #c in*es4 ,?\gh su* a m]e rag1 ?is piece is s f> valuable1 z x %[s t ,france !n got h] silk5 /uffs f ,sicily1 &1 9 ?is in/ance1 p]haps s5t h] own design ) h] ,gallic cock1 & h] fleur-de-lis m+l$ s pl5tifully 9 x4 ,h[ or :y ! lion is !re _c be expla9$4 #abgd4 ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 fawn-col\r2 design1 p>rots1 & giraffes 9 pairs1 amid floriat$ ornam5tation1 all1 except+ ! p>ts done 9 gold1 ( ! t9t ( ! gr\nd4 ,sicilian1 #ac? c5tury4 #bj in*es by #aj in*es4 ,^u an egg-%ap$ figure1 nicely fill$ 9 ) graceful floriat$ ornam5ts1 /& two p>rots1 brea/ to brea/1 b ) heads av]t$1 :i* 7z well z _! p9ion-jo9ts1 m>k$ by a broad circle cr[d$ ) little r+s on _! w+s1 & legs & claws7 are wr\ght 9 ?reads ( gold1 all n[ s t>ni%$ z to look z if fir/ work$ 9 "s dull purple silk4 ,_! long broad p]p5dicul> tails h ! fea!rs %[n by ,u %ap$ l9es1 look+ mu* l ! k9d ( ornam5tation notic$ "u ,nos4 #heia1 #heif1 #heii4 ,bel[1 & back to back1 or--z "s may *oose to see !m--affront$1 & bit+ ! /ems ( ! foliage1 are two giraffes1 ) "o leg rais$--may be bett] describ$ z tripp+4 ,!y are speck$ all ov] ) quatrefoil spots1 & h head & ho(s done 9 gold1 n[ fad$ to black4 ,?is /uff is z beautiful 9 design z sub/antial 9 its mat]ial1 be+ all ( good f9e silk2 ?\gh s poor & sp>+ 0 ! gold ^u ! ?read1 t x has q fad$4 ,f ! curve at ! upp] end1 ?is piece seems to h be5 cut out ( an old *asuble4 #abge4 ,silk ,damask 7made up ( f\r pieces72 gr\nd1 br[n1 once purple2 design1 9 gold ?read & col\r$ silks1 griff9s1 eagles1 & fl[]s4 ,sicilian1 e>ly #ac? c5tury4 #ai in*es by #ai in*es4 ,at top we h a r[ ( griff9s look+ to ! ea/1 mo/ly wr\ght 9 gold1 b reliev$ on col\r$ silks1 & hav+ at ! p9ion-jo9ts ( ! w+ t s+ul> circle1 fill$ 9 ) a small design2 !n a r[ ( conv5tional fl[]s 9 r$1 crimson1 gre51 & :ite1 &1 la/ ( all1 a r[ ( eagles at re/1 done mo/ly 9 gold1 slightly %ad$ ) gre51 & look+ we/4 ,! bea/s & birds are admirably drawn1 & :5 ! /uff 0 new x mu/ h be5 v f9e & effective1 ?\gh n[ ! gold looks %abby4 #abgf4 ,/ole1 ( silk & gold damask2 gr\nd1 purple silk2 design1 mo/ly 9 gold1 prick$ out ) gre5 silk1 a floriat$ oval1 fill$ 9 ) a pair ( "y p>d$ leop>ds1 addors$ reg>dant1 & wyv]ns reg>dant 9 c\ples4 ,sicilian1 late #ac? c5tury4 #h feet #d in*es by #c in*es1 n includ+ ! exp&$ ends4 ,?is is a magnific5t /uff2 b ! /ole itself c\ld h be5 made out ( x only 9 ! middle ( ! #ag? c5tury4 #abgg4 ,! ,hood ( a ,cope2 silk & gold2 gr\nd1 fawn-col\r$ silk2 design1 b&s1 9 gold ?read1 alt]nately broad1 figur$ ) h>ts c\*ant1 & fl[]s ) an oblique p5cil ( rays d>t+ d[n2 & n>r[1 m>k$ ) rayless fl[]s4 ,und]ly+ ! latt] gold b& is a v broad "o ( silk1 figur$ 9 gre51 ) coll>$ dogs runn+ at spe$ t[>ds a small swan1 ) sprigs ( fl[]s1 gre5 & :ite1 betwe5 !m4 ,sicilian1 late #ac? c5tury4 #ad in*es by #ac in*es4 ,! v po9t$ %ape ( ?is hood is some:at unusual 9 ! =m ( ?is "p ( a cope1 z made dur+ m$ival times1 9 ,engl&4 ,! /uff is ( a spirit$ design1 & %[s a curi\s elem5t 9 its patt]n1 9 ^? gold5 fl[]s ) _! p5cils ( rays4 #abgh4 ,silk & ,cotton ,damask2 gr\nd1 black2 design1 a lion rampant amid trees1 all 9 light gre54 ,sicilian1 #ad? c5tury4 #ae in*es by #g in*es4 ,v few examples occur ) gr\nd col\r$ black1 yet ! bright gre5 ( ! design goes well ^u its sombre gr\nd+4 ,! animal & also ! leaves & trees ar\nd him are all admirably & spirit$ly drawn1 & "o regrets t a patt]n ( su* m]it %\ld h be5 lo/ ^u su* poor mat]ials4 #abgi4 ,silk & ,gold ,damask2 gr\nd1 bright gre5 silk2 design1 9 gold1 conv5tional arti*okes1 l>ge & small1 & h>ts1 & demi-dogs ) v l>ge w+s1 bo? animals hav+ rem>kably long manes /ream+ f> beh9d !m4 ,sicilian1 #ad? c5tury4 #bg in*es by #ad in*es4 ,?is beautifully & ri*ly wr\ght /uff1 ) its fanta/ic design drawn ) su* _s1 mu/ h be51 :5 se5 9 a l>ge piece1 v pleas+4 ,its la/ use 0 9 a *asuble ( r mod]n cut1 to judge f its pres5t %ape4 #abhj4 ,small ,bag to hold relics2 gr\nd1 gold2 design1 all embroid]$ by ne$le1 :ite rabbits787 segreant1 peacocks 9 c\ples1 face to face1 ) ! rabbits betwe5 !m1 two he>ts & r[s ( black or purple spots1 l wom5's heads1 "o 9 ! middle surr\nd$ by a wrea? ( eight crimson />s1 ) small gre5 fl[]-be>+ trees1 & ! :ole field spr9kl$ ) lett]s1 n[1 f ! ill condition ( ! embroid]y1 n to be read4 ,g]man1 #af? c5tury4 #d in*es squ>e4 #abha4 ,"p ( a ,liturgical ,ornam5t2 silk ^u l952 gr\nd1 crimson1 fad$2 design1 9 yell[ flos-silk1 bea/s & birds4 ,syrian1 late #ac? c5tury4 #b feet #f in*es by #g in*es4 ,x does n seem to h la/ s]v$ z ei!r /ole or maniple1 b1 app>5tly1 0 "p ( an alt> curta9 ( :i* two 7 hung1 "o at ea* side ( ! sacr$ table4 ,lions & dogs seat$ & eagles p]*$ amid fl[]s & foliage =m ! patt]n1 :i* is n z well figur$ z ^? usually are :i* came f ! ea/]n %ores ( ! ,m$it]ranean4 #abhb4 ,silk & ,cotton ,damask2 gr\nd1 gre52 design1 l>ge ovals fill$ 9 ) foliation1 enclos$ ) a net-"w ( g>l&s1 ! fruits ( :i* might be mi/ak5 = half-moons4 ,nor? ,italy1 #ad? c5tury4 #ac in*es by #g in*es4 ,on bett] mat]ial1 = ! quantity ( its silk is small1 & 9 happi] col\rs1 ?is /uff might h be5 v pretty4 #abhc4 ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 amb] yell[2 design1 a h>t1 9 gold1 lodg$ b5ea? gre5 trees 9 a p>k1 ! pal+ ( :i* is light gre51 ) a bun* ( ! corn-fl[]1 c5taurea1 be=e x4 ,sicilian1 #ad? c5tury4 #g in*es by #e in*es4 #abhc;,a4 ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 amb] yell[2 design1 ! sun 9 its spl5d\r1 an eagle 9 gold1 a gre5 tree4 ,sicilian1 #ad? c5tury4 #g in*es by #e in*es4 #abhd4 ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 amb] yell[2 design1 a h>t1 9 gold1 lodg$ b5ea? gre5 trees 9 a p>k1 ! pal+ ( :i* is light gre51 ) a bun* ( ! corn-fl[] be=e x4 ,sicilian1 #ad? c5tury4 #g in*es by #f in*es4 #abhd;,a4 ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 amb] yell[2 design1 a runn+ h>t1 9 gold1 amid foliage4 ,sicilian1 #ad? c5tury4 #h in*es by #d in*es4 ,! la/ f\r pieces are1 9 fact1 b fragm5ts ( ! same /uff1 & :5 put toge!r make up its orig9al patt]n1 & beautiful x mu/ h seem$ :5 beheld z a :ole2 ! bird & animals are done ) mu* fre$om & _s2 s likewise ! foliage3 b two ( ! portions1 by be+ m expos$ to ! light1 are mu* fad$1 9 su* a mann] t ! gre5 9 !m has almo/ fl$4 ,z usual1 s poor 0 ! gold5 ?read t ! bird & animals n[ look almo/ black1 b "h & !re1 ) a good glass1 %imm]+s ( gold may be f\nd ^u !m4 ,to "s eyes ! sun may look l a rose surr\nd$ by rays4 ,at "o "t or ano!r an unfeel+ h& has mo/ pl5tifully spr9kl$ all ^! f\r pieces ) fl[]s made f gilt pap] /amp$ out1 & pa/$ on ! /aff ) /iff glue4 ,! silk1 especially ! yell[1 ( ?is tissue 0 mix$ ) v f9e ?reads ( cotton4 #abhe4 ,"o ( ! ,ends ( a ,/ole1 embroid]$ 9 beads2 gr\nd1 d>k blue2 design1 v likely ! head ( an apo/le1 9 v>i\s col\r$ & gold beads4 ,v5etian1 late #ab? c5tury4 ,s l bo? 9 design1 execution1 & mat]ials to ! portion ( an orphrey1 ,no4 #hbgd1 t x w\ld seem ?is piece 0 n only work$ by ! self-same h&1 b =m$ a "p ( ! self-same set ( ve/m5ts4 ,! places1 n[ b>e1 9 ! nimb & neck1 71 no d\bt1 once fill$ 9 ) f9e se$-pe>ls t h be5 wantonly pick$ out4 ,! o!r end ( ! same /ole to :i* ?is belong$ is ! foll[+4 #abhf4 ,exactly l ! =ego+2 b if 9 its fell[ piece se$-pe>ls are n to be se51 "h !y are left 9 "p ( ! nimb1 b especially ov] ! left eye4 ,( ! l>ge piece ) ! head ( ! ,bless$ ,virg9 ,m>y1 we h spok5 at l5g?1 ,no4 #hbgd4 #abhg4 ,silk & ,cotton ,damask2 gr\nd1 light yell[ silk2 design1 a reticulation ( v9e-bran*es be>+ grapes & leaves1 & enclos+ butt]flies1 an armorial %ield hav+ a royal cr[n ov] x1 all 9 light purple cotton4 ,sicilian1 e>ly #ad? c5tury4 #ag in*es by #ae in*es4 ,! design 9 all its elem5ts is s l _m o!r specim5s wr\ght by ! looms ( ,pal]mo at ! p]iod1 t we are w>rant$ to presume x came f t great m>t ( silk5 /uffs dur+ ! middle ages4 ,s ?9 9 its texture1 x mu/ h be5 meant = ! l9+ ( a heavi] mat]ial4 ,pre ,m>t9 has figur$1 9 8 v valuable 8,mlanges d',ar*ologie10 t4 iv4 plate xxii1 a piece ( silk1 n[ 9 ! ,museum ( ! ,l\vre1 almo/ ! same 9 patt]n1 b diff]+ mu* 9 col\r1 f ! specim5 be=e u4 ,9 ! specim5 at ,p>is little dogs & dragons1 bo? 9 pairs1 come 91 b "h !y are want+2 s t we may le>n t1 to give v>iety to ! patt]n1 p>ts 7 *ang$4 ,^u ! %ield !re is a *>ge n unlike a />1 r oblong1 ( six po9ts4 #abhh4 ,damask1 silk & cotton2 gr\nd1 deep blui% gre52 design1 pairs ( mon/]s1 half griff91 half elephant1 9 gold1 a conv5tional fl[] 9 light gre51 enclos+ a pair ( w+s 9 gold1 & pairs ( birds amid foliation1 ) %ort s5t5ces ( imitat$ ,arabic "h & !re4 ,sicilian1 e>ly #ad? c5tury4 #ad in*es by #aa in*es4 ,?is is a f9e & notewor?y production ( ! ,pal]mitan loom1 & %[s 9 its patt]n mu* fancy & great fre$om ( draw+2 = :e!r we look at ^? v s+ul> griff9 elephants1 sitt+ 9 pairs--& gaz+ at "o ano!r1 or ! two birds ( ! hoopoe family1 ) a long fea!r on ! head1 or ! two gold w+s conjo9$ & erect1 s h]aldically trick$1 ) t well-devis$ fl[] end+ 9 a honeysuckle scroll1 an ornam5t spr9kl$ all ab\t1 we _c b be pleas$ ) ! :ole arrangem5t4 ,! comb9ation ( elephant & griff9 9 ornam5tation is almo/1 p]haps q1 unique4 ,! pret5d$ ,arabic po9ts to a locality :]e once ,s>ac5ic workm5 lab\r$1 & left beh9d !m _! traditions ( excell5cy ( h&icraft4 ,9 ,dr4 ,bock's 8,ges*i*te d] ,liturgis*5 ,gewnd] des ,mittelalt]s10 #d ,lief]ung1 pl4 ix4 may be se5 ?is curi\s /uff figur$4 #abhi4 ,"p ( a ,maniple1 silk damask2 gr\nd1 fawn-col\r$2 design1 an ovate foliation amid mon/] bea/s & birds1 all 9 light blue silk1 except+ ! heads ( ! birds2 ! feet & heads ( ! animals done 9 gold4 ,sicilian1 late #ac? c5tury4 #ac in*es by #g in*es4 #abhi;,a4 ,"p ( a ,maniple1 silk damask2 gr\nd1 fawn-col\r$2 design1 an ovate foliation amid small lions & l>ge mon/] bea/s & birds1 9 light blue silk1 except+ ! small lions all 9 gold1 & ! heads & claws ( ! o!rs 9 ! same metal4 ,sicilian1 late #ac? c5tury4 #ba in*es by #f in*es4 ,! two articles 7 evid5tly p>ts ( ! same maniple2 a liturgical appliance ( su* n>r[ dim5sions t we _c make out ! entire composition ( ! v f9e & admirably drawn design ^u ! /uff1 out ( :i* x 0 cut orig9ally4 ,f :at is be=e u we p]ceive t !re 7 a pair ( small lions1 face to face1 all 9 gold1 a pair ( wyv]ns segreant 9 gre51 a pair ( griff9s passant1 ) heads ( gold1 & a pair ( o!r l>ge animals1 antelopes1 ) _! horn$ heads & clov5 ho(s 9 ! same metal2 slight indications ( ! fleur-de-lis "h & !re occur4 #abij4 ,a bi%op's ,liturgical ,%oe1 ( silk & gold damask2 gr\nd1 crimson silk2 design1 eagles1 9 c\ples1 at re/1 9 gold1 amid foliations 9 gre5 silk2 a small piece on ! left side ( ! heel is ( ano!r ri* /uff 9 gold & light gre54 ,italian /uff1 #ad? c5tury4 #aa in*es4 ,su* old episcopal liturgic %oes are n[ great r>ities2 & a specim5 once belong+ to "o ( our ,engli% wor?ies1 ,waneflete1 is giv5 9 ! 8,*ur* ( our ,fa!rs10 t4 ii4 p4 #bej2 x is ( ri* silk velvet1 wr\ght ) fl[]s1 & /ill kept at ,magdal5 ,college1 ,ox=d1 built & end[$ by t good bi%op ( ,w9*e/]4 ,9 ! pres5t example we h1 9 its ?9 lea!r sole = ! "r foot1 a pro( t mak+ %oes "r & left 0 well kn[n !n4 #abia4 ,silk & ,gold ,damask2 gr\nd 7n[ v fad$71 crimson silk2 design1 animals1 all 9 gold1 & fl[]s 9 gold1 prick$ out1 "s 9 gre51 o!rs 9 purple silk4 ,sicilian1 #ad? c5tury4 #ad in*es by #h in*es4 ,! animals are l>ge antelopes c\*ant1 & small] ones 9 ! l po/ure1 )9 fl[]s1 along ) l>ge oddly-%ap$ wyv]ns ) ! head b5t d[n2 ! fl[]s are roses1 & a modification ( ! c5taurea1 or corn-fl[]4 ,?\gh ! gold be t>ni%$1 ! patt]n is /ill ri*4 #abib4 ,taffeta1 silk & cotton2 gr\nd1 dull crimson cotton2 design1 reticulat$ foliage ) a conv5tional arti*oke 9 ! me%es1 all 9 pale blue4 ,spani%1 #ae? c5tury4 #g in*es by #f in*es4 #abib;,a4 ,taffeta1 silk & cotton2 gr\nd1 dull crimson cotton2 design1 reticulat$ foliage ) a conv5tional arti*oke 9 ! me%es1 all 9 pale blue4 ,spani%1 #ae? c5tury4 #e in*es by #e in*es4 ,z poor 9 mat]ial z 9 design1 & evid5tly manufactur$ = l9+s to silks ( ri*] sub/ances4 #abic4 ,silk & ,cotton ,damask2 gr\nd1 bright crimson silk2 design1 floriat$ circles fill$ 9 ) a pair ( griff9s rampant1 addors$1 reg>dant1 & ! spaces betwe5 ! circles ornam5t$ ) a floriat$ cross1 all 9 yell[ cotton4 ,sicilian1 #ad? c5tury4 #i in*es by #g in*es4 ,a good design be/[$ ^u some:at poor mat]ials4 ,at fir/ ! yell[ p>ts ( ! patt]n _h _! cotton ?read cov]$ ) gold1 b ( su* a debas$ quality & s sp>+ly1 too1 t x has almo/ all disappe>$1 &1 :]e se51 has t>ni%$ to a dusky black4 #abid4 ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 purple2 design1 l>ge fan-l leaves1 betwe5 small fruits ( ! pomegranate1 9 dead purple4 ,spani%1 late #ae? c5tury4 ,^u ?is specim5 !re 0 sew$ an inscription1 n[ s brok5 z n to make s5se1 & f ! /yle ( lett]1 ( ! floriat$ =m1 done 9 r$ & gold ?read ^u purple canvas1 z is all ! scroll-"w ab\t x1 "s ,g]man h& mu/ h wr\ght x4 #abie4 ,tissue ( ,cotton ,w>p & ,silk & ,gold ,wo(2 gr\nd1 n[ yell[2 design1 eagles 9 pairs1 divid$ by ray$ orbs1 amid foliage all 9 gold4 ,sicilian1 middle #ad? c5tury4 #f in*es by #e in*es4 ,! eagles are ab\t to take w+1 & are peck+ at ! rays (1 seem+ly1 ! sun :i* sep>ates !m4 ,! foliage is mu* l1 9 =m1 t :i* s (t5 occurs on works f ! looms ( ,pal]mo2 &1 9 all likelihood1 ! gr\nd1 n[ yell[1 0 once ( a fawn-col\r4 ,?\gh good 9 design1 ?is /uff is made ( poor mat]ials1 ! silk 9 x is small1 & ! gold ( su* a base quality t x has become a dusky br[n4 #abif4 ,tissue ( ,flax5 ,?read ,w>p & ,silk & ,gold ,wo(2 gr\nd1 fawn-col\r$2 design1 eagles 9 pairs affront$1 ) a p5cil ( sun-rays d>t+ d[n ^u _! heads1 & re/+ amid fl[]s all 9 gold4 ,sicilian1 middle #ad? c5tury4 #h in*es by #d in*es4 ,:at we said ( ,no4 #abie is equally applicable to ?is specim51 9 :i*1 h[ev]1 may be se51 ! corn-fl[]1 c5taurea1 s (t5 met ) 9 ,pal]mitan textures ( ! "t4 #abig4 ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 light gre52 design1 )9 a he>t-%ap$ figure1 a l>ge v9e-leaf1 at :i* two v small hoopoes1 "o at ea* side1 are peck+2 outside ! ovals1 f :i* l>ge bun*es ( small-fruit$ grapes are hang+1 runs a scroll ) little v9e-leaves1 all n[ ( a fawn-col\r1 b at fir/ 9 a rosy crimson hue4 ,italian1 late #ad? c5tury4 #ae in*es by #e in*es4 ,! design = ?is ta/eful /uff 0 ?r[n (f by an easy fl[+ h&2 & ,dr4 ,bock has giv5 a good plate1 9 8 8,dess9ateur des ,et(fes10 #c ,livraison1 ( a silk almo/ ! v same1 ! diff]5ces be+ "s v slight v>iations 9 p>ts ( its col\rs4 #abih1 #abih;,a4 ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 purple2 design1 amid foliage & small geometrical figures1 birds 9 pairs1 all 9 rosy r$1 & bea/s 9 gold4 ,sicilian1 #ad? c5tury4 #i in*es by #c in*es1 & #d in*es by #d in*es4 ,putt+ ^! two pieces toge!r we make out ?is beautiful1 elaborate1 ?\gh small patt]n4 ,:at ! birds may be is h>d to guess1 b ! bea/s seem lionesses1 ) bu%y tails1 & bold spirit$ griff9s4 ,dr4 ,bock has figur$ ?is /uff 9 ! be=e-m5tion$ l>ge "w4 #abii4 ,damask1 gold1 silk1 & ?read2 gr\nd1 dull purple2 design1 two broad horizontal b&s1 ! fir/ *>g$ ) a h\nd1 gre51 coll>$1 arm$1 & langu$ :ite1 ly+ d[n ) head upturn$ to a l>ge swan 9 gold1 ) foliage all ab\t !m2 on ! second1 a dog *as+ a h>t1 bo? 9 gold1 & betwe5 two cable ornam5ts 9 gold1 & two scrolls ( rov+ foliage1 9 light gre5 prick$ ) :ite4 ,sicilian1 late #ad? c5tury4 #ah in*es by #ab in*es4 ,! beautiful & boldly-drawn patt]n ( ^! bea/s & birds 9 pairs1 & succe$+ ea* o!r1 is n duly hon\r$ by ! mat]ials us$ 9 x2 ! quantity ( ?read is l>ge1 & ! gold ( ! poore/ sort4 #acjj4 ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 blue2 design1 9 yell[1 a net-"w done 9 ovate geometrical scrolls1 & ! me%es fill$ 9 ) geometrical loz5ges1 & o!rs %[+ an ornam5tation ( s+ul> occurr5ce1 some:at l ! h]aldic nebule4 ,lucca1 e>ly #ae? c5tury1 #aj in*es by #g in*es4 ,aft] a patt]n t seldom is to be f\nd on m$ival /uffs4 #acja4 ,silk & ,gold ,damask2 gr\nd1 bright crimson silk2 design1 9 gold1 fruit ( ! pomegranate1 m+l$ ) fl[]s & leaves ( ano!r plant4 ,s\? ( ,spa91 #ae? c5tury4 #i in*es by #h in*es4 ,at a di/ance ?is /uff mu/ h %[n well1 b its mat]ials are n ( ! fir/ class2 ?\gh lively 9 tone1 ! silk is poor1 & its gold made ( t ?9 gilt p>*m5t cut into flat %r$s1 l o!r examples "h--,nos4 #heij1 #hfja1 #hfci1 c4 #acjb4 ,silk & ,gold ,damask2 gr\nd1 fawn-col\r$ fad$ f crimson1 9 silk2 design1 l>ge eagles p]*$ 9 pairs1 ) a radiat+ sun betwe5 !m1 & b5ea? ! rays dogs 9 pairs1 runn+ ) heads turn$ back & look+ on ! foliage sep>at+ !m1 all 9 gold4 ,sicilian1 #ad? c5tury4 #ag in*es by #h in*es4 ,! f9e & spirit$ patt]n ( ?is piece is n[ v indi/9ct1 ow+ to ! bad col\r ( ! gr\nd1 :i* has s mu* fad$1 & ! inf]ior quality ( ! gold ^u ! ?read4 #acjc4 ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 a rose-col\r$ t9t2 patt]n1 9 a dull tone ( ! same1 broad /rap-"w1 9 reticulations enclos+ a circul> conv5tional floriation4 ,moresco-,spani%1 #ad? c5tury4 #f in*es by #e in*es4 ,! tone ( ! col\r has *ang$ f its fir/ brightness1 & ! /uff is ( a v ?9 texture4 #acjd4 ,silk & ,gold ,damask2 gr\nd1 crimson silk mu* fad$2 design1 h>ts coll>$ & fly+ eagles amid foliage1 all 9 gold4 ,sicilian1 #ad? c5tury4 #b feet #h in*es by #a foot4 ,9 ?is spirit$ patt]n ! runn+ h>ts 9 ! upp] r[ h caught "o ( _! h9d-legs 9 ! cord ti$ to _! coll>1 & an eagle swoops d[n ^u !m2 9 ! second r[1 ! same animal has swit*$ its tail into ! la/ l9k ( ! *a9 fa/5$ to its coll>1 & an eagle seems fly+ at its head1 z x screams ) gap+ beak4 ,! la/ use ( ?is specim5 ( s magnific5t a /uff appe>s to h be5 z "p ( a curta9 7) its #ae? c5tury poor p>ti-col\r$ ?read fr+e7 = hang+ at ! sides ( an alt>4 #acje4 ,embroid]$ ,lappet ( a ,mitre2 gr\nd1 l952 design1 b5ea? a tall ni*e1 a female 9 v>i\s col\r$ silks & gold2 & "u h]1 )9 a l[]-head$ ni*e1 a male figure aft] ! same /yle4 ,g]man1 late #ad? c5tury4 #ag in*es by #c in*es4 ,! high-peak$ canopy1 ) its crocket+ & f9ial well =m$ & once all cov]$ ) gold1 holds a female figure1 cr[n$ l a que51 ) ! bann] ( ! ,resurrection 9 "o h& & a *alice1 hav+ on x ! sacr$ ho/1 9 ! o!r1 :i* may be tak5 = ! p]son ( ! ,*ur*1 :ile ! maje/ic prophet b5ea? h] seems to be ,mala*i hold+ a long unfold$ scroll significative ( ^? words ( 8 relat+ to ! sacrifice 9 ! ,new ,law4 ,9 ! embroid]y ( ! figures ?is piece v mu* resembles ! /yle ( ne$lework 9 ! "p ( an orphrey1 ,no4 #acac4 ,9 8 8,ges*i*te d] ,liturgis*5 ,gewnd] des ,mittelalt]s10 #b ,lief]ung1 pl4 xii4 ,dr4 ,bock has giv5 figures ( ?is curi\s lappet4 #acjf1 #acjf;,a4 ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 fawn-col\r$2 design1 amid sunbeams1 ra9drops1 & foliage1 l>ge birds clut*+ 9 _! talons a scroll *>g$ ) a capital lett] ,r ?rice repeat$1 all 9 light gre54 ,sicilian1 late #ad? c5tury4 #ac in*es by #f in*es2 & #h in*es by #c in*es4 ,! design ( ?is /uff is r curi\s f ! inscrib$ scroll1 ! lett] ,r ( :i* is v ,italian4 #acjg4 ,silk & ,gold ,damask2 gr\nd1 fawn-col\r2 design1 amid a conv5tional foliation %oot+ out 9 places ) l>ge fan-l fl[]s 9 gold1 braces ( small birds on ! w+ & pairs ( runn+ dogs ) two antelopes1 c\*ant1 bit+ a b\gh1 bo? 9 gold4 ,sicilian1 #ad? c5tury4 #ab in*es by #h in*es4 ,a v good design well drawn1 b un=tunately n q p]fect 9 ! specim51 ! gold5 p>ts ( :i* are mu* t>ni%$4 #acjh4 ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 rosy fawn-col\r$2 design1 )9 a wrea? made up mo/ly ( myrtle-leaves & trefoils1 a lion's head cabos$1 above :i* is a bun* ( v9e-leaves %utt+ 9 a blue corn-fl[]1 & at ea* side1 9 :ite1 a ^w 9 imitat$ ,arabic2 except+ ! blue c5taurea & two :ite fl[]s 9 ! wrea?1 all ! re/ is 9 light gre54 ,sicilian1 #ad? c5tury4 #bb in*es by #aj in*es4 ,?is well-v>i$ patt]n is nicely drawn1 & %[s ! traditions ( ! ,s>ac5ic workm5 :o once fl\ri%$ at ,pal]mo4 #acji4 ,embroid]y ( ,?read ^u ,l952 design1 9 rais$ /it*]y1 ! hunt+ ( ! unicorn4 ,g]man1 late #ad? c5tury4 #bf in*es by #ac in*es4 ,?is f9e piece ( ne$lework %[s u a =e/ :]e a groom is hold+ ?ree horses1 on two ( :i* ! high-peak$ saddles are well giv52 runn+ t[>ds him are two hunt+ dogs1 coll>$4 ,9 ! mid/ ( ! wood sits a virg9 ) h] long hair fall+ d[n h] back1 & on h] lap an unicorn is re/+ 8 =e-feet2 beh9d ?is gr\p is com+ a man ) a /ick ^u 8 %\ld]1 f :i* hangs1 by its c\pl$ h9d-legs1 a dead h>e4 ,n only ! lady1 b ! m5 we> %oes ) rem>kably long toes1 & ! gracefulness ) :i* ! foliage is ev]y:]e tw9$ speaks ( ! p]iod z m>k$ 9 ! ar*itectural decoration ( ! p]iod "h 9 ,engl&4 ,9 ano!r numb] 7#hfah7 ! same subject is notic$ z significative ( ! ,inc>nation1 & fully expla9$4 ,no d\bt1 l ! o!r piece ( f9e ,rh5i% ne$lework1 ?is also =m$ b a "p ( a l>ge clo? to hang beh9d an alt> z a r]$os4 ,^? v long-to$ %oes br\ght into fa%ion "h by ,ann ( ,bohemia1 our ,ri*>d ,,ii4's que51 7 call$ 8crac[es40 #acaj4 ,maniple ( ,crimson & ,gold ,damask2 gr\nd1 bright crimson2 design1 /ags & sunbeams4 ,sicilian1 late #ad? c5tury4 #c feet #g in*es by #d in*es4 ,"u ,no4 #hfbd !re is a specim5 ( silk damask1 )\t gold 9 x1 ( a patt]n s l ?is t1 7 ! pres5t piece p]fect 9 its design1 we might presume bo? _h come f ! same loom1 & diff]$ only 9 mat]ials4 ,9 t1 z 9 ?is1 we h a c\ple ( /ags well attir$1 ) _! heads upturn$ to a l>ge p5cil ( sunbeams d>t+ d[n ^u !m amid a %[] ( ra9drops4 #acaa4 ,silk & ,gold ,damask2 gr\nd1 deep violet2 design1 ,/4 ,m>y ( ,egypt1 ) h] own hair fall+ all ov] h]1 z h] only g>m5t1 on h] knees be=e an alt> on :i* /&s a cross2 beh9d h]1 a tree1 ^u :i* hov]s a bird ) a long b\gh 9 its beak2 & high up ov] aga9/ h] an arm com+ f a cl\d ) ! h& 9 b5$iction1 & rays d>t+ f ! f+]s1 betwe5 two />s1 "o ( eight1 ! o!r ( six po9ts1 all mo/ly 9 gold4 ,v5etian1 #ae? c5tury4 #ab in*es by #aa in*es4 ,! mat]ials & ! weav+ ( ?is valuable tissue are bo? good1 & figure a sa9t once 9 great repute 9 ,ori5tal ,*ri/5dom z well z among ^? ,europeans :o trad$ ) ! ,ea/1 z an example ( true rep5tance4 ,a "p ( ! design is1 s to say1 ante-dat$1 & to und]/& ! :ole ( x we ought to "k some?+ ( ! life ( ?is second ,magdal54 ,9 ! latt] half ( ! f\r? c5tury ,/4 ,m>y ( ,egypt1 !n a girl ( twelve1 fl$ to ,alex&ria1 :]e %e l$ an ab&on$ life4 ,x *anc$ t %e w5t 9 a c]ta9 %ip full ( pilgrims to ,j]usalem1 :]e1 on ! fea/ ( ! ,elevation ( ! ,cross1 %e 0 h9d]$ by a miracle f ent]+ ! *ur*4 ,!n1 com+ to h]self1 %e made a v[ ( p5ance1 & )drew to ! des]t beyond ! ,jordan4 ,!re %e liv$ unse5 = =ty ye>s1 till all h] g>m5ts fell away & %e _h no?+ :]e) to clo! h]self b h] own long hair4 ,on ! /uff be=e u ! ana*ronism ( its design w be soon p]ceiv$ f ?is rapid sket* ( ,/4 ,m>y's life4 ,in/ead ( be+1 z %e mu/ h be51 array$ 9 ! female fa%ion ( ! "t :5 %e w5t to ,j]usalem1 ! great p5it5t is repres5t$ s f> q nak$ t h] own long tresses1 fall+ all ar\nd h]1 are h] only mantle--j z %e us$ to be m ?an =ty ye>s aft]w>ds4 ,b yet ! design well unfolds h] /ory2 ! h& d>t+ rays ( light signifies ! revelation giv5 h] f heav51 & ! bless+ t foll[$ x2 :ile ! two />s tell ( ,j]usalem1 z also does ! elaborately-fa%ion$ cross t is /&+ on ! alt>1 ! frontal to :i*1 9 ! upp] bord]1 seems ornam5t$ 9 purple1 ) an inscription1 n[ unreadable1 b ! la/ lett]s ( :i* look z if !y are ,r ,l ,i4 ,! bird1 p]haps a dove1 has no "p 9 ! sa9t's hi/ory1 b is a fancy ( ! arti/4 ,9 ,dr4 ,bock's 8,ges*i*te d] ,liturgis*5 ,gewnd] des ,mittelalt]s10 #a ,b&1 #a ,lief]ung1 pl4 xi4 is a figure ( ?is /uff4 #acab4 ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 crimson2 design1 a complication ( geometric l9es & figures 9 yell[1 blue1 gre5 & :ite4 ,moresque1 #ae? c5tury4 #bb in*es by #ah in*es4 ,^? :o "k ! ornam5tation on ! burn$ clay tiles & ! gilt pla/] ceil+s 9 ! ,alhambra at ,granada w recognize ! same feel+ & /yle 9 ?is %[y /uff1 ! silk ( :i* is s good1 & ! col\rs1 p>ticul>ly ! crimson1 s w>m4 #acac4 ,"p ( an ,orphrey2 gr\nd1 deep crimson sat91 edg$ ) a n>r[ gre5 b&2 design1 ?ree apo/olic figures b5ea? ,go?ic canopies1 all wr\ght 9 gold ?read & col\r$ silks ^u canvas & appli$4 ,g]man1 e>ly #ae? c5tury4 #cj in*es by #g in*es4 ,ea* figure is nicely work$2 & ! fir/1 beg9n+ at ! top1 hold+ a sword erect 9 8 "r h&1 is ,/4 ,james ! ,great]2 b5ea? him1 ) a halb]t1 ,/4 ,mat!w2 & la/ ( all1 hold+ 9 "o h& a book1 9 ! o!r a sword1 ,/4 ,paul4 ,! fl[]y crocket+ runn+ up ! ar*es ( ! ni*es is p>ticul>ly good4 #acad4 ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 crimson 7n[ fad$72 design1 two gold5 lions ) _! =e-paws re/+ on a :ite scroll1 look+ d[n ^u an orb d>t+ /raight d[n its rays ^u ! heads ( two p]*$ eagles1 amid foliation1 all 9 gre54 ,italian1 late #ad? c5tury4 #bf in*es by #i in*es4 ,a f9e design1 & sket*$ ) great fre$om2 b ! silk & gold employ$ 9 x are n ( ! be/4 #acae4 ,silk ,taffeta2 gr\nd1 br[n2 design1 broad b&s made up ( eight r$-edg$ orange /ripes )9 two :ite ones4 ,egyptian1 #aj? c5tury4 #bf in*es by #i in*es4 #acaf4 ,silk ,taffeta2 gr\nd1 purple2 design1 n>r[ /ripes made up ( :ite purple & gre5 l9es4 ,egyptian1 #aj? c5tury4 #bd in*es by #c in*es4 ,^! sc>ce examples ( ,ori5tal ability 9 ! production ( v ?9 sub/ances = p]sonal adornm5t & dress1 "u su* a sun z ev5 ! nor? ( ,africa has1 7 orig9ally wr\ght = ord9>y1 n religi\s use4 ,!y 7 br\ght to ,europe z preci\s /uffs1 & giv5 z su* to ! ,*ur* & us$ = ca/+ ov] ! tombs ( ! sa9ts1 z palls1 or z l9+s = ?ick] silk5 ve/m5ts4 ,t ^! or any ( ! foll[+ specim5s ( gauze or taffeta 7 ev] put to ! purpose ( mak+ /ock+s1 or r legg+s l boots1 /ill worn by bi%ops on solemn occasions dur+ ! celebrations ( ! liturgy1 _c = a mom5t be ?\ght (4 ,su* appliances are1 & always 71 made ei!r ( velvet or /rong clo? ( gold or silv]4 #acag4 ,silk ,gauze2 gr\nd1 light gre52 design1 broad b&s compos$ ( :ite1 black1 & orange /ripes4 ,egyptian1 #aj? c5tury4 #ac in*es by #d in*es4 #acah4 ,taffeta1 ,silk & ,cotton2 gr\nd & design1 broad /ripes ( crimson1 gre51 crimson & orange1 sep>at$ by n>r[ l9es ( :ite2 ! w>p is ( br[n f9e cotton4 ,egyptian1 #aj? c5tury4 #ab in*es by #b in*es4 ,( su* /uffs ! ,ori5tals make _! girdles to ?is day2 & = su* a purpose we presume ?is taffeta 0 wov5 at ,cairo & = ,moslem use1 z ! gre5 ( ! s-call$ prophet is "o among its col\rs4 #acai4 ,silk ,gauze2 gr\nd1 a light gre54 ,egyptian1 #aj? c5tury4 #aj in*es by #c in*es4 ,?\gh )\t any patt]n1 su* a specim5 is v valuable = lett+ u see ! delicate texture :i* ! ,s>ac5s1 l ! anci5t ,egyptians1 knew h[ to give to ! works ( ! loom4 ,?is1 l ,no4 #acag1 if ev] us$ = *ur* purposes1 c\ld only h be5 employ$ = spread+ ov] %r9es1 or ! l9+ ( ve/m5ts2 specim5s l ^! are sometimes f\nd betwe5 ! leaves 9 illum9at$ ,,mss1 to protect ! pa9t+s4 #acbj4 ,silk & ,gold ,damask2 gr\nd1 crimson 7n[ fad$7 silk2 design1 lions 9 pairs addors$1 reg>dant1 ea* ) a swan swung ^u its back1 & held by ! neck 9 its m\?1 b\nd+ f out a small space surr\nd$ by a l[ circul> pal+1 & amid two l>ge conv5tional floriations2 at ! top ( "o ( ^! are two squirrels sitt+ upright1 or sejant1 all 9 gold4 ,italian1 late #ad? c5tury4 #ag in*es by #aj in*es4 ,un=tunately ?is curi\s well-figur$ & int]e/+ design is some:at wa/$ ^u mat]ials s fad$1 z sc>cely to %[ x n[4 ,! foliation is r ?ick & heavy4 ,9 ,dr4 ,bock's "w1 8,ges*i*te d] ,liturgis*5 ,gewnd] des ,mittelalt]s10 #a ,b&1 #a ,lief]ung1 pl4 xiv4 may be f\nd ?is /uff1 nicely figur$4 #acba4 ,small ,piece ( ,embroid]y2 backgr\nd1 canvas diap]$ ) loz5ges 9 br[n ?read2 =egr\nd1 once p>tly /rew$ ) /reaks ( gold2 design1 two m5 be>d$ & clad 9 long g>m5ts1 seem+ly p]sonages ( ! ,old ,law1 talk+ to ea* o!r4 ,flor5t9e1 #ae? c5tury4 ,) q an ,italian & ,flor5t9e "* ab\t !m1 ^! two figures1 bo? work$ 9 silk1 h no great m]it2 ?\gh !re are "s good folds 9 ! br[n mantle1 %ot ) gre51 ( ! hood$ individual /&+ on ! left-h&4 ,t x has be5 cut away f "s l>g] piece is evid5t1 b :at ! orig9al s]v$ =1 :e!r a sacr$ or secul> purpose1 x is impossible n[ to say4 #acbb4 ,/ole2 gr\nd1 light blue silk2 design1 a ?9 b\gh rov+ along ! /ole's :ole l5g? 9 an undulat+ l9e1 & spr\t+ out into fan-l leaves1 & small fl[]s1 & 9 a :ite rais$ cord1 n>r[ly edg$ ) crimson silk & gold ?read4 ,at "o exp&$ end is ! ,holy ,lamb ^u a gold5 gr\nd2 at ! o!r1 ! dove1 emblem ( ! ,holy ,gho/1 alight+ ^u fl[]s4 ,g]man1 #ae? c5tury4 #h feet #f in*es by #c in*es4 ,?\gh ! "w ^u ?is /ole is r co>se1 /ill f its rais$ /yle x mu/ h be5 effective2 b its *ief value is f hav+ be5 a liturgic ornam5t4 ,! diap]+ at ! end figur$ ) ! ,holy ,lamb1 done ^u a yell[ canvas gr\nd1 ) its ?9 gold5 ?reads work$ into ?ree circles1 ) _! radiations n /raight b wavy1 is rem>kable1 & may be f\nd ^u ano!r "w wr\ght by a ,g]man ne$le 9 ?is collection4 ,n only ! ,lamb & ! ,dove1 b ! floriation1 are ?r[n up into a sort ( l[ relief4 #acbc4 ,embroid]$ ,l952 design1 b>b$ quatrefoils fill$ 9 ) armorial birds & bea/s1 & ! spaces betwe5 wr\ght ) v9e-leaves4 ,g]man1 #ae? c5tury4 #af in*es by #aa in*es4 ,?is is b a piece ( a mu* l>g] "w1 ! patt]n ( :i*1 9 its entire =m1 c only be guess$ at f a few rema9s4 ,"o quatrefoil is occupi$ by a pair ( eagles 7z !y seem to be7 addors$ reg>dant2 & ! two legs ( ano!r ?ree-to$ creature rema9+ ne> !m prove t o!r ?+s besides ! eagles 7 figur$4 ,! :ole is co>sely done 9 co>se mat]ials1 &1 9 workman%ip1 f> bel[ v _m specim5s "h4 ,x appe>s to h s]v$ = h\sehold n = *ur* use4 #acbd4 ,embroid]$ ,cu%ion = ! missal at ! alt>2 gr\nd1 crimson silk2 design1 our ,infant ,"l 9 ! arms ( ! ,bless$ ,virg9 ,m>y1 ) ,/4 ,joseph & f\r angels wor%ipp+1 on ! upp] side1 9 v>i\s-col\r$ silk2 on ! "u side1 a reticulation fill$ 9 ) a pair ( birds & a fl[]+ plant alt]nately4 ,g]man1 late #ac? c5tury4 #ai in*es by #ac in*es4 ,su* cu%ions1 & ( s remote a p]iod1 are great liturgical curiosities1 &1 =tunately1 ! pres5t "o is 9 v good pres]vation1 & q a "w ( art4 ,?ron$ )9 a ,go?ic build+1 r ?an b5ea? a canopy1 sits ! "m ( ! ,div9e ,babe1 :o is out/ret*+ ,8 little h&s t[>ds ! lily-bran* :i* ! approa*+ ,/4 ,joseph is hold+ 9 "o h&1 :ile 9 ! o!r he c>ries a basket ( doves4 ,outside1 & on ! gre5 sw>d1 are kneel+ f\r angels rob$ z deacons1 ?ree ( :om be> lily fl[]s1 a f\r? ! liturgical fan2 ! :ole is encircl$ by a g>l& ( lilies4 ,! "u-side is work$ ) :ite doves 9 pairs1 & a gre5 tree bloom+ ) r$ fl[]s2 & ?\gh mu* ( ! ne$lework is gone1 ?is cu%ion is a good example = su* an appliance4 ,dr4 ,bock has figur$ x 9 8 8,ges*i*te d] ,liturgis*5 ,gewnd] des ,mittelalt]s10 #a ,b&1 #b ,lief]ung1 p4 xiii4 #acbe4 ,"p ( an ,alt>-clo?2 gr\nd1 l952 design1 amid foliage sp>+ly height5$ ) yell[ silk1 birds1 & bea/s1 & "o end figur$ ) ! gammadion4 ,g]man1 #ad? c5tury4 #f feet #d in*es by #b feet #b in*es4 ,?is alt>-clo?1 n[ %ort5$ & )\t "o ( its ends figur$ ) ! gammadion1 is made up ( two diff]5t pieces1 ( :i* "o %[+ two l>ge-head$ pheasants1 put "o above ! o!r1 amid foliage pl5tifully fl[]$ ) ! fleur-de-lis & roses1 is q p]fect 9 its patt]n2 b ! o!r1 m>k$ ) alt]nate griff9s & lions1 has be5 cut 9 two s z to give u b ! h9d] half ( ea* animal1 amid a foliage ( oak-leaves4 ,! :ole design1 h[ev]1 is boldly drawn & spirit$ly execut$4 #acbf4 ,damask1 silk & cotton2 gr\nd1 gre52 design1 l>ge & small conv5tional arti*okes1 9 gold & yell[ silk1 amid g>l&s 9 :ite silk4 ,italian1 #ae? c5tury4 #b feet #aj in*es by #a foot #c in*es4 ,?\gh mu* cotton is mix$ up ) ! silk1 & its gold 0 ( an inf]ior quality1 /ill ! cr[d$ & elaborate design ( its patt]n makes ?is /uff v pleas+4 #acbg4 ,silk ,net2 gre54 ,turki%1 #af? c5tury 7874 #aa in*es by #d in*es4 ,su* productions ( ! loom are us$ among ! ,moslem inhabitants ( ! ,ea/ 9 v>i\s ways1 = conceal+ _! females :5 !y g abroad 9 c>riages1 c4 #acbh4 ,l95 ,diap]4 ,flemi%1 #ae? c5tury4 #b in*es squ>e4 ,v likely f ! looms ( ,yprs1 !n fam\s = its nap]y1 & :i* gave its "n1 8d'ypres10 to ?is sort ( wr\ght l954 #acbi4 ,"p ( an ,orphrey ,web2 gr\nd1 crimson silk2 design1 /raight bran*es be>+ fl[]s & b\ghs1 9 gold ?read2 & amid !m ,/4 ,doro?y & ,/4 ,/eph54 ,g]man1 #ae? c5tury4 #bc in*es by #b in*es4 ,/4 ,doro?y is figur$ hold+ 9 h] "r h& a gold5 *alice-l cup fill$ ) fl[]s1 & 9 h] left1 a tall gre5 bran* bloom+ ) :ite roses2 ,/4 ,/eph5 c>ries a palm-bran*1 emblem ( 8 m>tyrdom4 ,bo? sa9ts are /&+ ^u gre5 turf spr9kl$ ) crimson daisies1 & b5ea? ea* is ! sa9t's "n1 writt5 9 gold4 ,?\gh ! p]sons ( ! sa9ts are wov51 ! heads1 h&s1 & emblems are wr\ght ) ! ne$le4 ,! dalmatic ( ! proto-m>tyr is nicely %[n1 9 light gre51 ) its orphreys 9 gold4 ,?is piece is a fav\rable specim5 ( its k9d1 & v likely 0 produc$ at ,cologne4 #accj4 ,frontlet to an ,alt>-clo?2 gr\nd1 diap]$ :ite l952 design1 embroid]y ( two l>ge fl[]-be>+ trees1 ) an un*>g$ %ield betwe5 !m1 & "u !m inscriptions4 ,g]man1 #af? c5tury4 #ae in*es by #e in*es4 ,s v l ! piece ,no4 #hhfd t x w\ld seem to h be5 wr\ght by ! same h&4 ,to ! left we read--8,spes unica1 /abat mat]20 to ! "r--8,mat] dolorosa juxta crucem10 c4 #acca4 ,web = ,orphreys2 gr\nd1 crimson silk2 design1 two b\ghs ) leaves & fl[]s tw9$ 9 an oval =m1 all 9 gold ?read4 ,g]man1 late #ae? c5tury4 #aj in*es by #d in*es4 ,graceful 9 its design1 b poor 9 bo? its silk & gold1 ! latt] hav+ become almo/ black4 #accb4 ,piece ( ,rais$ ,velvet1 brocad$ 9 gold2 gr\nd1 d>k blue2 design1 a diap]+ 9 cut velvet on ! blue gr\nd1 & l>ge leaves & small arti*okes 9 gold4 ,italian1 e>ly #af? c5tury4 #af in*es by #ae in*es4 ,?is nicely diap]$ velvet1 ( a good pile & spr9kl$ ) a gold brocade1 may h be5 wr\ght ei!r at ,lucca or ,g5oa4 ,un=tunately1 ! gold ?read 0 ( an inf]ior quality4 #accc4 ,silk & ,gold ,damask2 gr\nd1 crimson silk2 design1 broad g>l&s tw9$ into a net-"w1 ! almo/ r\nd me%es ( :i* are fill$ 9 ) a conv5tional arti*oke wrea!d ) corn-fl[]s1 all 9 pure good gold1 ^u a gr\nd speck$ ) gold4 ,spani%1 late #ae? c5tury4 #bb in*es by #i in*es4 ,?is is a f9e ri* specim5 ( an article ( ! ,spani% loom1 v likely f ,alm]ia2 its crimson tone is fre% & w>m1 :ile its gold is z bright n[ z :5 fir/ wov5 into its pres5t graceful patt]n4 #accd4 ,web = ,orphreys2 gr\nd1 gold ?read2 design1 two bran*es tw9$ into l>ge oval spaces1 & be>+ leaves & r$ & :ite fl[]s1 hav+1 9 "o space1 ! "n ,gumpre*t & a %ield1 appli$1 or1 a spread-eagle sable1 langu$ & arm$ gules1 7may be = ,br&5burg72 & "u ?is1 9 ! web itself1 ano!r %ield or1 a lion rampant gules1 arm$ langu$ & cr[n$ or1 & d\ble tail$1 seem+ly = ,bohemia4 ,g]man1 #ae? c5tury4 #af in*es by #e in*es4 ,?\gh ( poor mat]ials1 ?is piece is int]e/+ f %[+ a "n & armorial be>+s4 #acce4 ,web = ,orphreys2 gr\nd1 fawn-col\r$ silk2 design1 almo/ all 9 gold1 sitt+ on a ?rone b5ea? a ,go?ic canopy ! ,bless$ ,virg9 ,m>y1 cr[n$ & nimb$1 ) our ,"l z a *ild ^u h] lap1 alt]nat+ ) a circle be>+ )9 x ! sacr$ monogram 7work$ ! wrong way7 done 9 blue silk1 surr\nd$ by gold5 rays4 ,g]man1 middle ( #ae? c5tury4 #aa in*es by #d in*es4 ,! design ( ?is orphrey-web is good1 b ! gold s amalgamat$ ) copp] t x has become q br[n4 ,?\gh ! monogram is t usually se5 9 ! h&s ( ,/4 ,b]n>d9us ( ,si5na1 & ! draw+ ( ! gr\p ( ! ,bless$ ,virg9 ,m>y & ! sacr$ ,*ild is some:at ,italian1 ?is 0 n ! "w ( any ,italians loom2 = 9 no "p ( ,italy w\ld ! monogram h _h giv5 x lett]s ( su* a ,g]man type4 #accf4 ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd & patt]n 9 ri* crimson2 design1 eight-cusp$ ovals1 ea* cusp tipp$ n ) a fl[]1 b t5drils2 ! ovals enclose a conv5tional arti*oke purfl$ ) fl[]s2 & ! spaces betwe5 ! ovals are fill$ 9 ) small arti*okes 9 bloom4 ,spani%1 #ae? c5tury4 #bj in*es by #ad in*es4 ,?is is a f9e specim5 bo? = ! ri*ness ( its silk & ! w>m & mell[ t9t ( its gr\nd1 ^u :i* ! patt]n comes out 9 a dull] tone4 ,fur!r on we %all meet ) ano!r /uff1 ,no4 #acde1 :i* mu/ h proce$$ f ! same loom1 & %[s 9 its design _m elem5ts ( ! "o 9 ?is4 ,ei!r ,granada or ,alm]ia produc$ ?is f9e piece1 :i* af=ds u1 9 ! brilliancy ( its col\r1 an apt sample ( our old poet ,*auc]'s dress = "o ( 8 *>act]s1 ( :om he tells u1-- 8,9 sangu9 & 9 p]se he clad 0 alle20 & helps u to und]/& ,sp5s]'s allusion to ! "y maid5's blu%es3-- 8,h[ ! r$ roses flu% up 9 h] *eekes 444 ) goodly v]mill /ayne1 ,l crimson dyde 9 grayne40 #accg4 ,web = ,orphreys2 gr\nd1 crimson silk2 design1 9 gold ?read1 a /raight bran* ( a tree be>+ pairs ( b\ghs ) fl[]s1 alt]nat+ ) o!r b\ghs ) sprigs ( leaves4 ,g]man1 e>ly #af? c5tury4 #ad in*es by #b in*es4 ,! w>p ( ?is web is ?ick l95 ?read1 & :]e ! wo( ( crimson silk is worn away1 ?is ?read1 z if "p ( ! design1 %[s itself2 &1 z ! gold is poor & sp>+ly put on1 ! specim5 n[ looks %abby4 ,l _m o!r samples ( ! k9d1 wov51 probably1 at ,cologne1 ?is 0 int5d$ z ! n>r[ orphrey on liturgical g>m5ts4 #acch4 ,an ,app>el to an ,alb2 gr\nd1 /rong l952 design1 )9 tw9+ b\ghs be>+ fl[]s & leaves1 a dove & a lamb1 all 9 v>i\s-col\r$ silks & outl9$ 9 n>r[ /rips ( lea!r4 ,spani%1 e>ly #ae? c5tury4 #ac in*es squ>e4 ,t ! la/ liturgic use ( ?is piece 0 z an app>el to an alb !re c be little d\bt1 ?\gh1 9 all likelihood1 x may h be5 cut (f a l>g] piece ( ne$lework wr\ght = ! front bord] ( an alt>-clo?4 ,! outl9e 9 lea!r is r s+ul>2 ?\gh n[ black1 x 0 once gilt1 l ^? /rips we see cut into v n>r[ %r$s1 & work$ up1 in/ead ( gold ?read1 into silk5 /uffs f ! looms ( ,alm]ia or ,granada1 specim5s ( :i* are 9 ?is collection4 ,z an art-production ( ! ne$le1 ?is is b a poor "o4 #acci4 ,rais$ ,gold ,brocad$ ,velvet2 gr\nd1 gre5 silk2 design1 )9 an oval 9 crimson rais$ velvet ( a floriat$ patt]n1 dott$ ) fl[]s & grapes 9 :ite1 a l>ge trefoil on rais$ crimson velvet1 be>+ inside an arti*oke 9 gre5 & gold1 spr++ f a :ite fl[]4 ,italian1 #af? c5tury1 #aa in*es by #h in*es4 ,?is ta/eful & pleas+ design is wr\ght 9 ri* mat]ials2 & l>ge /ate-*airs are yet to be se5 9 ! palaces ( ,rome cov]$ ) su* beautiful & co/ly velvets4 #acdj4 ,silk & ,gold ,damask2 gr\nd1 blue silk2 design1 ogee ar*es1 ov] ! f9ial ( ea* a l>ge conv5tional fl[]1 & )9 & )\t ! ar*es a slip ( ! mulb]ry-leaf & fruit1 all 9 bright gold4 ,lucca1 #af? c5tury4 #c feet #e in*es by #b feet #d in*es4 ,?is f9e ri* /uff mu/ h be5 mo/ effective = wall-hang+s4 ,! blue silk gr\nd is ta/efully diap]$ 9 bright & dull %ades ( ! silk itself2 & 9 ! f9e gold design ! arti*oke is judici\sly br\ght 9 ^u ! ogee ar*es4 ,:5 nicely manag$1 no?+ is bett] ?an a gr\nd 9 "o %ade & a design 9 a deep] tone ( ! same col\r4 #acda4 ,silk & ,gold ,damask2 gr\nd1 fawn-col\r$ silk2 design1 pomegranates pil$ toge!r 9 ?rees1 all gold1 & fl[]s 9 silk alt]nately crimson & gre54 ,spani%1 #af? c5tury4 #af in*es by #ab in*es4 ,! ri* gr\nd ( ?is f9e /uff has a well-design$ & r rais$ diap]+ ( geometrical scroll-"w2 ! pomegranates are wr\ght 9 pure gold ?read1 & ! tones ( ! fl[]s are bright4 #acdb4 ,wor/$ ,"w2 gr\nd1 black2 design1 fl[]s4 ,g]man1 #af? c5tury4 #ba in*es squ>e4 ,v likely ?is 0 "p ( a c>pet1 embroid]$ by h&1 = cov]+ ! top ( ! high] /ep at ! alt>1 call$ by "s a p$e-clo?2 ! gr\nd is ( a black wor/$ w>p1 ) a wo( ( ?ick br[n ?read4 ,! fl[]s are mo/ly crimson-%ad$ p9k1 "s are1 or 71 p>tly :ite1 & seem to be made = sorts ( ! p5t/emon1 digitalis1 & fritill>ia2 a butt]fly1 too1 is n =gott54 #acdc4 ,cradle-quilt1 l951 embroid]$ 9 col\r$ silks ) fl[]s & names4 ,g]man1 late #ae? c5tury4 #c feet #d in*es by #a foot #h in*es4 ,at ea* ( its f\r corn]s1 z well z 9 ! middle1 is wr\ght a l>ge bun* ( our 8mead[ p9k20 betwe5 ! fl[]s are work$ ^! names1--8,jhesus1 ,m>ia1 ,johanes1 ,jasp>1 ,baltas>1 ,m>ia1 ,mel*ior1 ,johanes40 ,f ! names assign$ to ! ?ree wise m51 ^: relics are en%r9$ 9 ! ca!dral at ,cologne1 be+ s conspicu\sly wr\ght ^u ?is piece1 we may presume t ! ne$lework 0 done 9 t great ,g]man city4 ,by we>1 ! gre5s ( ! leaves h turn$ br[n1 & ! p9k ( ! fl[]s become pale4 ,^? pieces ( pr9t$ l95 ) :i* ! holes 9 two places are m5d$ w n be )\t an int]e/ = ^? :o are curi\s 9 trac+ out ! orig9 ( su* manufactures4 ,o!r examples ( ^! cradle-quilts are 9 ?is collection4 #acdd4 ,cradle-quilt1 l951 embroid]$ 9 col\r$ silks2 design1 )9 a broad bord] ( scroll-"w 9 simple l9es1 ! emblems ( ! f\r ,evangeli/s1 "o at ea* corn]2 ( ! ,crucifixion1 ) ! ,bless$ ,virg9 ,m>y on ! "r1 & ,/4 ,john to ! left1 only a small "p ( ! "y apo/le's figure is to be f\nd at pres5t4 ,g]man1 e>ly #af? c5tury1 #b feet #f in*es by #b feet #b in*es4 ,?\gh 9 m]e outl9e1 ! :ole design 0 well drawn1 & ! emblems at ! corn]s h great fre$om ab\t !m4 ,on ! popul> use ( ! evangeli/s' emblems ^u su* baby's furniture1 "s obs]vations are giv5 on ano!r good sample1 ,no4 #dfdd1 9 ?is collection4 ,a cradle-quilt l ! pres5t "o occurs at ,no4 #ddei4 #acde4 ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd & patt]n 9 r$di% crimson2 design1 eight-cusp$ ovals1--ea* cusp tipp$ ) a fl[]1 end+ 9 a fleur-de-lis above a cr[n1 at top1 & enclos+ a conv5tional arti*oke purfl$ ) fl[]s4 ,spani%1 #ae? c5tury4 #ad in*es by #ac in*es4 ,f its pres5t %ape1 ?is piece 0 evid5tly la/ 9 use z ! hood to a liturgical cope4 #acdf4 ,"p ( an ,embroid]$ ,orphrey2 gr\nd 7n[ fad$71 crimson silk2 design1 a gre5 silk b\gh s tw9$ z to end 9 a long p9natifi$ leaf or fl[]1 n[ :ite b once gold1 ) little r\nds ( gold spr\t+ f p>ts ( ! outside bran*es4 ,g]man1 #af? c5tury4 #af in*es by #c in*es4 ,a specim5 z meagre 9 design z x is poor 9 mat]ials4 #acdg4 ,"p ( an ,embroid]$ ,orphrey2 gr\nd1 crimson silk2 design1 a gre5 silk b\gh1 c4 ,g]man1 #af? c5tury4 #ag in*es by #e in*es4 ,9 all likelihood a "p ( ! broad] orphrey wr\ght = ! same ve/m5t z ! "o j be=e m5tion$4 #acdh4 ,web = ,orphreys2 gr\nd1 gold ?read2 design1 ! fleur-de-lis compos$ into a geometric patt]n1 outl9$ 9 d>k br[n silk4 ,g]man1 late #ae? c5tury4 #ad in*es by #d in*es4 ,bo? ! br[n col\r & ! design are some:at r>e1 z f\nd ^u ecclesia/ical appliances4 ,"h1 z else:]e1 ! gold is s poor t x is h>dly disc]nible4 ,"u ! canvas l9+ is a piece ( p>*m5t1 on :i* is writt5 "s !ological matt]4 #acdi4 ,web = ,orphreys2 gr\nd1 clo? ( gold prick$ ) crimson2 design1 ! names--8,jhesus10 8,m>ia10 done 9 blue silk1 betwe5 two trees1 "o be>+ heads ( crimson fruit1 ! o!r lilies1 p>ti-col\r$ :ite ) crimson2 & ! gre5 sw>d1 f :i* bo? spr+1 cov]$ ) full-bl[n daisies 9 "o in/ance1 ) unexp&$ daisies 9 ! o!r4 ,g]man1 late #ae? c5tury4 #ag in*es by #d in*es4 ,l sev]al o!r specim5s 9 ! collection1 & mo/ probably wov5 to be ! orphreys sew$1 be=e & beh9d1 9 a horizontal /ripe1 ^u ! dalmatics & tunicles = high mass4 ,! /ud5t ( symbolism w n fail to see 9 ! tree to ! "r h& ! my/ic v9e1 be>+ bun*es ( crimson grapes2 :ile1 to ! left1 ! tree cov]$ ) p>ti-col\r$ lilies--:ite = purity1 r$ = a ble$+-he>t--is ref]rible to ! ,bless$ ,virg9 ,m>y1 ^: he>t1 z %e /ood at ! foot ( ! cross1 und]w5t all ! pa9s ( m>tyrdom =etold h] by ,simeon :5 he said1--8,& ?9e own s\l a sword %all pi]ce10 ,luke ii4 #ce4 #acej4 ,web = ,orphreys2 gr\nd1 n>r[ blue spaces alt]nat+ ) wid] crimson ones2 design1 ! "n ( 8,jhesus10 9 gold ^u ! blue1 betwe5 two bord]s *eck]$ crimson blue & yell[1 ! crimson spaces *>g$ ) a floriation1 alt]nately gold & yell[2 ! next blue space inscrib$ ) ! "n 8,m>ia0 9 gold4 ,9 ! names1 z well z ! floriation1 ! metal has become t>ni%$ s z to look a dull br[n4 ,g]man1 late #ae? c5tury4 #ai in*es by #b in*es4 ,( su* webs !re are sev]al specim5s 9 ! collection2 & _! use 0 to ornam5t liturgical ve/m5ts1 9 ^? long p]p5dicul> l9es f\nd ^u tunicles & dalmatics4 #acea4 ,piece ( ,rais$ ,velvet2 gr\nd1 crimson2 design1 a conv5tional arti*oke1 wrea!d ) small fl[]s 9 gre5 & yell[ )9 a g>l& ( ! same col\rs4 ,italian1 #af? c5tury4 #aa in*es by #aa in*es4 #acea;,a4 ,piece ( ,rais$ ,velvet4 ,a "p ( ! same /uff4 ,italian1 #af? c5tury4 #i in*es by #a by in*es4 #acea;,b4 ,piece ( ,rais$ ,velvet4 ,a "p ( ! same /uff4 ,italian1 #af? c5tury4 #ab in*es by #a in*es4 ,^! ?ree pieces are portions ( a mat]ial made ( excell5t ri* silk1 & ( good tones 9 col\r4 #aceb4 ,piece ( ,rais$ ,velvet1 brocad$ 9 gold2 gr\nd1 crimson2 design1 an oval ) cusps inside & enclos+ a l>ge arti*oke1 ! :ole wrea!d ) a g>l&1 & 9 gold4 ,italian1 #af? c5tury4 #b feet #c in*es by #h in*es4 ,?is magnific5t /uff is r5d]$ /ill m valuable1 z a specim51 f hav+ mu* ( its design ( t r>e k9d ( velvet ^u velvet1 or "o pile put ov]1 9 design1 ano!r b l[] pile4 ,! /ate-rooms ( a palace c\ld alone h be5 hung ) su* sumptu\s wall-cov]+s4 ,p]haps *ur* ve/m5ts & hang+s ab\t ! alt> may h be5 sometimes made ( su* a heavy mat]ial4 #aceb;,a4 ,piece ( ,rais$ ,velvet1 brocad$ 9 gold2 gr\nd1 crimson2 design1 a cusp$ oval enclos+ a conv5tional arti*oke1 & ! :ole wrea!d ) a broad g>l&1 all 9 gold4 ,italian1 #af? c5tury4 #ah in*es by #g in*es4 ,?is diff]s bo? 9 design & quality f ! =m]1 hav+ no pile ^u pile 9 x4 #aceb;,b4 ,piece ( ,rais$ ,velvet1 brocad$ 9 gold2 gr\nd1 crimson2 design1 n v cle>3 ?\gh1 f :at c be obs]v$1 x is ! same ) ,no4 #aceb4 #acec4 ,web = ,orphreys2 gr\nd1 crimson silk2 design1 9 yell[ silk & gold ?read1 betwe5 two floriat$ bord]s1 a s]ies ( foliat$ scrolls1 ) ! op5 r\nd spaces fill$ 9 ) ! ,bless$ ,virg9 hold+ our ,"l z a nak$ *ild 9 h] arms1 & a sa9t-bi%op we>+ 8 mitre & cope1 giv+ 8 bless+ ) "o h&1 & hold+ 8 pa/oral /aff 9 ! o!r4 ,v5etian1 #af? c5tury4 #be in*es by #h in*es4 ,! mat]ials are good1 except+ ! gold ?read1 :i* has turn$ black1 ?\gh ! l>ge quantity ( ri* yell[ silk us$ along ) x some:at hides its t>ni%4 ,9 ge>+ 8 loom ! weav] has made ! mi/ake ( %[+ ! bi%op z be/[+ 8 b5$iction ) 8 left1 in/ead ( 8 "r h&4 #aced4 ,embroid]$ ,l952 gr\nd1 v f9e l952 design1 sep>at$ by a saltire or ,/4 ,&rew's cross1 loz5ges fill$ 9 ) a ,greek cross1 & half loz5ges1 ! :ole ornam5t$ ) circles enclos+ o!r small crosses4 ,italian1 #af? c5tury4 #aj in*es by #c in*es4 ,?is elaborate design is z delicately work$ z x is beautiful 9 patt]n4 #acee4 ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 sea-gre52 design1 9 ! same t9t1 a conv5tional foliation ( ! pomegranate1 surr\nd+ a wide broad-b&$ oval fill$ 9 ) a l>ge fruit ( ! same k9d4 ,spani%1 e>ly #af? c5tury4 #cc in*es by #ab in*es4 ,9 ! beauty ( its design1 ! ri* s(tness ( its silk1 & its grateful tone1 ?is is a pleas+ specim5 ( ! loom f ! s\? ( ,spa94 #acef4 ,piece ( ,rais$ ,velvet2 black2 design1 foliat$ bran*es jo9$ at int]vals by royal cr[ns alt]nat+ ) vases1 & l>ge arti*okes 9 ! int]v5+ spaces4 ,italian1 late #ae? c5tury4 #be in*es by #ba in*es4 ,?is truly beautiful velvet 01 no d\bt1 meant = p]sonal attire4 #aceg4 ,rais$ ,velvet2 gr\nd1 olive-gre5 silk2 design1 slips ) fl[]s & leaves ( a some:at deep] tone1 & outl9$ 9 a light] col\r$ rais$ velvet4 ,lucca1 #af? c5tury4 #h- in*es by #h in*es4 ,?is nicely-wr\ght /uff ( pleas+ patt]n mu/ h be5 made = p]sonal attire4 #aceh4 ,l95 ,cro*et ,"w2 design1 saltires1 betwe5 crosses =m$ ( leaves1 & a modification ( ! ,greek me&]4 ,flemi%1 #af? c5tury4 #ba in*es by #g in*es4 ,! conv5ts 9 ,france1 b m p>ticul>ly 9 ,fl&]s1 7 at all times fam\s = ?is k9d ( "w2 h5ce x is (t5 call$ nun's lace1 because wr\ght by !m = trimm+ alt>-clo?s & albs4 ,! pres5t "o is a good specim5 ( a geometrical patt]n1 & ! two bord]s are neatly done by ! ne$le ^u l954 ,9 all likelihood ?is piece 0 ! hem ( an alt>-clo?4 #acei4 ,l95 ,damask2 design1 scrolls & foliage1 ) a deep bord] %[+ ducal coronets1 armorial %ields1 & ! lett]s ,l & ,k4 ,flemi%1 e>ly #ag? c5tury4 #bh in*es by #aa in*es4 ,an elaborate specim5 ( ! way !y ge>$ _! looms 9 ,fl&]s1 & m especially at ,yprs1 :]e mo/ likely1 ?is f9e damask 0 wov54 ,! %ield is p>ty p] pale1 #a/1 two *evronels embattl$2 #bnd1 ?ree turret$ t[]s1 two & "o4 ,seem+ly ?is piece ( ,flemi% nap]y 0 made = "s nobleman ^: wife 01 or claim$ to be1 ( ! anci5t blood ( ! royal h\se ( ,ca/ile4 #acfj4 ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 crimson2 design1 bun*es ( fl[]s1 arti*okes1 & pomegranates1 9 yell[4 ,spani%1 #af? c5tury4 #bj in*es by #aa in*es4 ,a ri* /uff1 :e!r col\r or mat]ial be consid]$2 & q agree+ ) o!r specim5s 9 ! love ( ! s\!rn ,spani% loom = ! pomegranate1 ! emblem ( ,granada1 :]e probably x 0 wr\ght4 #acfa4 ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 dull violet2 design1 )9 reticulat$ squ>es1 a conv5tional bun* ( fl[]s mu* 9 ! honeysuckle %ape1 9 :ite & yell[4 ,italian1 #af? c5tury4 #f in*es by #g in*es4 ,?\gh ! silk is good1 ! weav+ is r co>se & r\gh4 #acfb4 ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 bright crimson2 design1 a conv5tional floriation 9 v>i\s-col\r$ silks4 ,nor? ,italian1 #af? c5tury4 #i in*es by #f in*es4 ,illu/ration3 #acfb4 ,,silk ,,damask ,crimson gr\nd ) l>ge bran*+ patt]n 9 col\r$ silk4 ,italian1 #af? c5tury4 ,v9c5t ,brooks ,day ,son1 ,li?4 ,s ?ick is ?is some:at %[y /uff1 t x mu/ h be5 meant = furniture purposes4 #acfc4 ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 r$di% purple2 design1 slips ( ?ree k9ds ( fl[]-be>+ plants1 "o ( :i* is ! pomegranate4 ,spani%1 late #ae? c5tury4 #aj in*es by #f- in*es4 ,f ! s\? ( ,spa91 & be>+ a tok51 if n ( ! city1 at lea/ ( ! k+dom ( ,granada4 #acfd4 ,damask1 l95 wo(1 silk5 w>p2 gr\nd1 yell[2 design1 a conv5tional floriation1 %[+ a /rong lik5ess to ! :ole plant ( ! arti*oke1 9 :ite l954 ,italian1 #af? c5tury4 #aj in*es by #i in*es4 ,a poor /uff 9 respect to mat]ials1 col\r1 & design2 :i* latt] is ! be/ elem5t 9 x4 ,int5d$ = h\sehold decorative purposes4 #acfe4 ,damask1 silk wo(1 l95 w>p2 gr\nd1 light r$1 n[ fad$2 design1 vases fill$ ) fl[]s1 9 yell[ silk4 ,italian1 late #af? c5tury4 #bd in*es by #bb in*es4 ,no d\bt ?is /uff 0 meant = hang+s 9 a palace or dwell+-h\se2 & among ! fl[]s may be se5 ! bignonia or trumpet-fl[]1 & ! pomegranate op5+ & ab\t to %$ its se$4 #acff4 ,l95 ,diap]2 design1 squ>e made out ( f\r leaves4 ,flemi%1 late #af? c5tury4 #bj in*es by #i in*es4 ,! patt]n1 ?\gh s simple1 is v pleas+1 & ! /uff itself speaks ( ,yprs z be+ ! place ( its orig94 #acfg4 ,silk ,taffeta2 gr\nd1 purple2 design1 amid b\ghs1 a pair ( birds1 ) an arti*oke betwe5 !m1 all 9 orange-yell[4 ,sicilian1 #ad? c5tury4 #i in*es squ>e4 ,?is light ?9 /uff1 quiet 9 its tones & simple 9 its patt]n1 mu/ h be5 wr\ght = l9+ robes ( ri* /uffs4 #acfh4 ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 :ite sat92 design1 amid fl[]s1 among :i* ! *rysan!mum is v conspicu\s1 a gr\p1 consi/+ ( a man inside a l[ f5ce look+ upw>ds ^u a blue lion & a gold5 tig]1 seem+ly at play1 side by side1 "o ( :i* is ab\t to be /ruck by a long spe> held by a man /&+ above1 )9 a wall$ build+4 ,j ov] him /&s ano!r man ) a %ort mace 9 "o h&1 9 ! o!r a small bottle1 out ( :i* comes a l>ge b\gh ( ! pomegranate tree 9 leaf1 fl[]1 & fruit4 ,*9ese1 #af? c5tury4 #b feet #f in*es by #aj in*es4 ,= ! s(t w>m t9ts ( its sev]al col\r$ flos-silks1 ! pur5ess ( ! gold ?read ^u ! human faces1 ! animals & ! fl[]s1 ! correctness ( ! draw+1 & ! well-arrang$ fre$om ( ! :ole patt]n1 !re are few pieces t come up to ?is 9 ! :ole collection4 ,9 all likelihood x 0 br\ght f ,*9a1 p]haps made up z a liturgical *asuble1 by "s ,portuguese mission>y prie/1 9 ! latt] portion ( ! #af? or beg9n+ ( ! #ag? c5tury4 #acfi4 ,dalmatic2 gr\nd1 blue silk2 design1 n>r[ b&s *>g$ ) circles enclos+ a ^w 9 imitat$ ,arabic1 & conv5tional fl[]s sep>at+ two h\nds c\*ant1 g>dant1 ea* )9 8 own circle1 all 9 gold1 & a l>ge conv5tional floriation1 at ! foot ( :i* are two *eetahs coll>$1 c\rant1 face to face1 all 9 :ite silk1 slightly speck$ ) crimson1 & betwe5 ?is gr\p two eagles1 9 :ite silk1 fly+ d[n ^u two small h\nds1 sejant1 g>dant1 bo? 9 gold4 ,! orphreys1 broad & n>r[1 are embroid]$ ) h]aldic %ields set ^u a gold5 gr\nd4 ,sicilian1 #ad? c5tury4 #c feet #e in*es by 7across ! sleeves7 #d feet #b in*es4 ,"s ru?less h& has cut away f ! back a l>ge squ>e piece ( ?is ve/m5t2 &1 to adopt x to mod]n fa%ion1 its sleeves h be5 slit up at ! "u side4 ,! armorial be>+s are1 on "o %ield1 a *ief or1 gules1 ?ree />s1 two1 & "o arg5t2 on ! o!r1 purpure1 two arr[s 9 saltire or4 ,! *eetahs are well m>k$ by ! r\nd spots ^u !m2 & :5 new1 ?is /uff1 ) its patt]n s boldly figur$1 mu/ h be5 pleas+4 #acgj4 ,piece ( ,cut-"w1 = wall-hang+2 gr\nd1 squ>e ( blue & r$1 ) ! upp] bord] blue1 ! side "o r$2 design1 at top1 knights & ladies talk+1 & ea* )9 a sep>ate ar*2 9 ! body ( ! piece1 ! hi/ory ( "s dragon-slay]1 figur$ 9 two horizontal r[s ( comp>tm5ts1 e "o ( :i* is conta9$ )9 an ar*way ) a head compos$ ( ?ree trefoil ar*es 9 a /raight l9e1 & re/+ on trefoil-brackets1 & hav+1 all ?r\gh1 birds & fl[]s 9 ! sp&rils4 ,fr5*1 late #ad? c5tury4 #g feet #aa in*es by #c feet #d in*es4 ,?\gh n[ s r\gh & tatt]$ ?is almo/ unique piece ( 8cut-"w0 7:i* ,fr5* p w\ld call appliqu1 b bett] describ$ by ! ,engli% words71 ( s l>ge a size1 is valuable = its use 9 %[+ h[1 ) *eap mat]ials & a little k ( draw+1 a v pleas+1 n to say useful1 article ( decoration may be made1 ei!r = *ur* appliance or h\sehold furniture4 ,un=tunately ! heads ( ! p]sonages 9 ! upp] r[ are all cut away1 b l[] d[n we pla9ly see ! hi/ory meant to be repres5t$4 ,^u ! fir/ pane1 to ! left1 we h a regal ?rone1 ^u :i* are sitt+1 evid5tly 9 e>ne/ talk1 a k+1 cr[n$ & sceptr$1 & a knight1 ea* belt$ ) a spl5did milit>y girdle fall+ l[ d[n ar\nd ! hips4 ,beh9d ! knight /&s 8 'squire4 ,9 ! next pane ! en?ron$ k+ is giv+ 8 ord]s to ! /&+ knight1 t[>d :om 8 'squire is br++ 8 sword1 8 %ield1 7arg5t a fess azure1 surm\nt$ by a demi-ox azure17 & a basc9et mantl$ & cre/$ ) ! head ( ! same demi-ox or auro*s & its tall horns4 ,aft] ?is we behold ! knight ) lance & %ield1 & 8 'squire on horseback rid+ =? f ! ca/le1 at ! gate ( :i* /&s ! k+1 out/ret*+ 8 h& & bidd+ f>ewell to ! knight1 :o is turn+ ab\t to ackn[l$ge ! good-bye4 ,go+ fir/ ^u ! road1 ! knight1 foll[$ by ! 'squire1 seems ask+ ! way to ! dragon's lair1 f a g5tleman :om !y meet4 ,! mon/] is !n f\nd 9 a wood1 & ! knight is tilt+ 8 spe> into its fire-r$ maw4 ,! next pane c>ry+ on ! romance is ! fir/ to ! left 9 ! second or l[] s]ies4 ,"h ! knight is unhors$1 & 8 good grey /e$ is ly+ on ! field2 b ! knight himself1 wield+ 8 sword 9 bo? h&s1 is ab\t to smite ! dragon brea?+ long flames ( fire t[>ds him4 ,aft]w>ds he cat*es hold ( 8 fi]y tongue1 & is cutt+ x (f4 ,x w\ld look z if ! dragon1 ?\gh w\nd$ to ! loss ( its tongue1 _h n be5 wor/$2 = 9 ! foll[+ comp>tm5t we behold ! same knight all un>m$1 b well m\nt$1 gallop+ =? f a ca/le gate ) a h\nd & "s sort ( bird1 bo? ) /r+s to !m1 by 8 horse's side1 & hav+ f\nd ! dragon aga91 appe>s hold+ an argum5t ) ! bea/ t1 = answ]1 %[s ! fi]y /ump ( 8 tongue 9 8 gap+ m\?4 ,b ! dragon w n give himself up & be l$ away captive4 ,n[1 h[ev]1 comes ! gr& fight4 ,9 a =e/1 ) a bird p]*$ on high ^u "o ( ! trees1 ! knight1 dism\nt$ f 8 horse1 cuts (f ! head ( ! dragon1 :i*1 to ! la/1 is c>eful to %[ 8 mu* %ort5$ yet /ill fi]y tongue to 8 victor4 ,n[ h we ! la/ passage b "o 9 ! /ory4 ,^u 8 b5d$ knee ! triumphant knight is pres5t+ ! op5-m\!d1 tongueless1 cut-(f dragon's head to ! k+ & que51 bo? ?ron$ & royally array$1 ! pr9cess1 _! daught]1 /&+ by h] "m's side4 ,! "y maid51 no d\bt1 is ! victor's prize2 b n[--& x is ! la/ *apt]--! knight & lady1 dress$ 9 ! we$s ( daily life & walk+ =? ^u ! fl[]y turf1 seem happy ) "o ano!r z man & wife4 ,! two panes at ?is "p1 & s]v+ z a bord]1 seem out ( place1 & nei!r has a connection ) ! o!r2 9 ! fir/1 j outside a ca/le wall1 rides a cr[n$ k+ foll[$ by a horseman1 evid5tly ( l[ degree2 & a column sep>ates him f a l>ge b$1 ly+ ^u :i* we obs]ve ! upp] "p ( a female figure1 ! head re/+ ^u a ri* cu%ion2 next to ?is1 b put 9 anglewise to fill up ! space1 we h a cr[n$ lady & a girdl$ knight1 sitt+ b5ea? a tree1 ea* ) a little dog beside !m4 ,! co/ume ( bo? m5 & wom5 9 ?is curi\s piece ( cut-"w is t ( ! end ( ! #ad? c5tury4 ,! p>ti-col\r$ dress ( ! m51 _! long po9t$ %oes1 & ! broad girdles1 worn s l[ ^u _! hips by ! k+ & knight1 z well z ! basc9et & helmet ( ! latt]1 ) ! horses' trapp+s1 all speak ( t p]iod2 nor %\ld we =get ! sort ( peak$ head-dress1 z well z ! way 9 :i* ! front hair ( ! ladies is ?r[n up into ?ick %ort curls4 ,all ! human figures1 all ! bea/s1 z well z ! ar*itecture1 are outl9$ 9 ?9 lea!r or p>*m5t once gilt1 b n[ turn$ q black4 ,) ! same lea!r1 too1 7 /udd$ ! belts ( ! k+ & knight1 & ! spangles & gold5 enri*m5ts ( ! ladies' dress 7 ( ! same mat]ial4 ,sav+ "h & !re a few /it*es ( silk1 ev]y?+ else 0 ( wor/$1 & t none ( ! f9e/ texture4 ,) su* small means a good art-"w 0 produc$1 z we see be=e u4 ,! way 9 :i* ea* figure ov] ! :ole ( ?is curi\s piece ( cut-"w is outl9$ by ! lea!r edg+ /rongly rem9ds u ( ! lead+s 9 /a9$ glass2 9 fact1 bo? ! "o & ! o!r are wr\ght aft] ! same mann]1 & ! pr9cipal diff]5ce betwe5 ! w9d[ & ! wooll5 hang+ is ! employm5t ( an opaque in/ead ( a transp>5t mat]ial4 ,if ! p]sonages are dress$ sometimes 9 blue1 at o!rs 9 crimson1 x w be f\nd t ^! col\rs alt]nate ) ! alt]nat+ t9ts ( ! panes ^u :i* !y are sew$4 ,s (t5 d ! passages 9 ! romance "h figur$ correspond ) c]ta9 p>ts 9 ! wild leg5d ( our own f>-fam$ 8,sir ,guy ( ,w>wick10 t1 at fir/ sight1 "o might be l$ to ?9k t z 8 r5[n$ /ory 0 c>ri$ all ?r\gh ,*ri/5dom1 we _h be=e u 8 mighty feats & triumph ov] ! dragon 9 ,nor?umb]l&1 set =? 9 ?is h&iwork ( "s lady-read] ( 8 /ory4 #acga4 ,wor/$ ,"w2 gr\nd1 gre52 design1 conv5tional fl[]s 9 yell[1 )1 at "o end1 a bord] ( foliat$ b\ghs1 ! leaves ( :i* are p>tly gre51 p>tly r$1 & an edg+ ( a b& made up ( :ite1 gre51 yell[1 sc>let /raight l9es on ! inn] side2 on ?ree sides !re is a n>r[ li/+ ( blui%-gre5 lace4 ,g]man1 #ae? c5tury4 #d feet #c in*es by #a foot #aj in*es4 ,9 all probability ?is 0 int5d$ & us$ z a c>pet = "s small alt>-/ep4 ,x is work$ ^u co>se canvas4 #acgb4 ,piece ( ,ne$lework2 patt]n1 ^u bell-%ap$ spaces ( silv] ?read1 fl[]s mo/ly :ite & %ad$ yell[1 divid$ by a sort ( imp]ial high-peak$ cap ( blue %ad$ :ite1 aris+ out ( a royal cr[n4 #ag? c5tury4 #ab in*es by #g in*es4 #acgb;,a4 ,bord] to an ,alt>-clo?1 embroid]$2 gr\nd1 crimson silk2 design1 animals & birds amid bran*+ foliage & fleurs-de-lis1 well rais$ 9 :ite & gold2 ! upp] "p l951 wr\ght into loz5ges alt]nately crimson & yell[1 brac$ toge!r by a fret1 & fill$ 9 ) n>r[ b>s saltire wise4 ,g]man1 #ae? c5tury4 #c feet #aj in*es by #aa in*es4 ,among ! animals is ! symbolic lamb & flag1 ) a *alice und]nea? its head4 ,f ! exact simil>ity ( /yle 9 ! ornam5tation & ne$lework1 !re c be no d\bt b ! same h& :i* wr\ght ! /ole1 ,no4 #acbb1 work$ ?is piece1 & probably bo? =m$ a portion ( ! same set ( ornam5ts = ! *antry *apel ( "s small family4 #acgc4 ,cope2 gr\nd1 gre5 rais$-velvet2 design1 amid leaves ( a he>t-%ape or cordate1 freckl$ ) a k9d ( *eck1 l>ge conv5tional arti*okes4 ,! orphreys are ( web1 figur$1 on a gold5 gr\nd1 ) sa9ts1 inscription1 & fl[]-be>+ trees2 ! hood is ornam5t$ ) appli$ cut-"w & ne$le embroid]y1 & ! morse is ( pla9 velvet4 ,! rais$ velvet is ,italian1 #af? c5tury2 ! orphrey web1 ,g]man1 #af? c5tury2 ! embroid]y ( ! hood1 #af? c5tury4 #i feet #b in*es by #c feet #aa in*es4 ,! rais$ velvet1 ?\gh n[ s torn & /it*$ toge!r1 is ( a v f9e pile1 & pleas+ elaborate design4 ,! hood is figur$ ) ! ,annunciation1 & ! faces are appli$ pieces ( :ite silk ) ! features & hair br\ght out by ! ne$le 9 col\r$ silks2 ! o!r p>ts ( ! embroid]y are co>se b effective4 ,on ! orphreys are %[n1 on "o side1 ,/4 ,pet] & ,/4 ,ka!r9e1 on ! o!r1 ,/4 ,paul & ,/4 ,b>b>a4 ,! gr\nd = ! "n ( ! la/ sa9t looks v bright & fre% 9 its gold2 b ! gold is1 s to say1 a fraud4 ,x is put1 by ! common gild+ process1 ^u ! web aft] be+ wov51 & n tw9$ ab\t ! ?read itself4 ,! fr+e all r\nd ! l[] "p is r unusual4 #acgd4 ,appli$ ,embroid]y2 gr\nd1 gre5 silk2 patt]n1 a fl[]-vase betwe5 two horns ( pl5ty ) fl[]s com+ out ( !m1 & sep>at$ by a conv5tional floral ornam5t1 mo/ly done 9 amb]-col\r$ cord4 ,fr5*1 late #ag? c5tury4 #b feet #c in*es by #f in*es4 ,tame 9 its design1 & easy 9 its execution4 #acgd;,a4 '#fd4 ,*asuble ( ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 purple2 design1 a quatrefoil )9 ano!r *>g$ ) a cross-l floriation1 hav+ a squ>e :ite-l9$ c5tre1 surm\nt$ by two eagles ) w+s display$ & uphold+ 9 _! beaks a royal cr[n1 all 9 gre54 ,italian1 e>ly #ae? c5tury4 #d feet #f in*es by #b feet #g in*es4 ,by "s unfeel+ h& a l>ge piece 01 n long ago1 cut out f ! front ( ?is f9e old ample *asuble2 &1 v likely1 ! specim5 ( ! same /uff1 ,no4 #gjeg1 is t v portion4 #acge4 '#fd4 ,*asuble2 gr\nd1 v ri* velvet2 design1 9 ! middle ( a l>ge five-petal$ fl[]1 a pomegranate1 & ano!r pomegranate 9 ! spaces betwe5 ^! fl[]s4 ,! orphreys are1 be=e & beh9d1 ( ri* diap]$ clo? ( gold1 ! "o beh9d ( ! ,y =m1 figur$ 9 embroid]y ) ! ,crucifixion2 ! "o be=e on a piece ( velvet ( a diff]5t diap]+ f ! back1 ) ! ,bless$ ,virg9 ,m>y & our ,"l1 z a *ild1 9 h] arms2 & bel[1 ! figure ( ,religion4 ,spani%1 late #ae? c5tury4 #c feet #b in*es by #b feet #d in*es4 ,?is *asuble mu/ h be5 truly gr& & maje/ic :5 new1 & se5 9 all its sumptu\s fulness1 = x has be5 sadly cut away ab\t ! %\ld]s4 ,x mu/1 orig9ally1 h measur$1 on t "p1 at lea/ "s in*es beyond f\r feet4 ,! ,y cross orphrey on ! back is figur$ ) ! crucifixion1 done aft] a l>ge & effective mann]1 = ! p]son ( our ,r$eem] measures m ?an #a foot #i in*es 9 l5g?1 & ,81 z well z all ! o!r faces are ?r[n up 9 l[ relief4 ,at ! ends ( ! transom ( ! cross are f\r w+$ angels--two at ea* side1 ( :om "o is cat*+1 9 a gold5 *alice1 ! sacr$ blood spirt+ f ! w\nds 9 ! h&s1 ! o!r fly+ d[n 9 sorr[ f ! cl\ds4 ,high above ! cross are two angels ) peacock-fea!r w+s1 sw++ two gold5 ?uribles1 :i* are 9 l[ relief2 & betwe5 ^! angelic spirits1 a gold5 eagle 9 high relief1 ) w+s display$1 arm$ & beak$ gules & hold+ 9 8 once crimson talons a scroll :i*1 f ! lett]s obs]vable1 may h be5 inscrib$ ) ! motto1 87,respice7 9 fi7nem740 ,! front ( ! *asuble is made ( a piece ( velvet ( ano!r & mu* broad] design--a l>ge fl[] ( five petals & two /ipul--b equally rem>kable = its deep mell[ ruby tone & s(t deep pile4 ,its orphrey ( f9e diap]$ gold-?read embroid]y1 b mu* worn away ?r\gh be+ long rubb$ by its we>]s aga9/ ! alt>1 is work$ ) ! ,bless$ ,virg9 ,m>y c>ry+ 9 h] arms our ,savi\r1 z a nak$ *ild1 c>ess+ ,8 "m's face2 &1 l[] d[n1 ) a female figure cr[n$ & nimb$1 be>+ 9 h] "r h& a gold5 *alice1 at ! top ( :i* is a l>ge eu*>i/ic p>ticle m>k$ ) a cross-crosslet2 ?is is ! emblem ( ! ,*ur*4 ,bo? figures are l>ge & ( a tell+ effect2 &1 l ! o!r figures1 h m ( a naturali/ic ?an ideal type ( beauty ab\t !m4 #acgf4 ,*asuble2 gr\nd1 rais$ crimson velvet ) conc5tric circles 9 clo? ( gold1 )9 g>l&s ( :i* ! leaves are gre51 ! fl[]s gold4 ,! orphreys are wov5 9 col\r$ silks on clo? ( gold1 ) inscriptions4 ,! velvet1 ,flor5t9e1 late #ae? c5tury2 ! orphrey web1 ,g]man1 late #ae? c5tury4 #c feet #aj in*es by #b feet #aj in*es4 ,illu/ration3 #acgf4 ,,"p ,,( ,,! ,,orphrey ,,( ,a ,,*asuble4 ,g]man #ae? c5tury4 ,v9c5t ,brooks ,day ,son1 ,li?4 ,illu/ration3 #acgf4 ,,"p ,,( ,,! ,,orphrey ,,( ,a ,,*asuble4 ,g]man #ae? c5tury4 ,v9c5t ,brooks ,day ,son1 ,li?4 ,! v ri* /uff ( ?is ve/m5t f> surpasses 9 spl5d\r ! orphreys1 :i* ought to h be5 bett]4 ,on ! "o beh9d1 we h ! ,crucifixion ) ! words bel[1 9 blue silk1 8,o ,crux ,ave40 ,fur!r d[n an angel is hold+ a %eet figur$ ) all ! in/rum5ts ( ! ,passion4 ,aft] ! ^w ,m>ia1 a second angel is %[n ) ano!r %eet fall+ f 8 h&s & figur$ ) ! ,holy ,lamb1 hav+1 b5ea? x1 ! words 8,ecce ,agnus ,dei20 !n a ?ird angel1 ) ! ^w1 b belong+ to ano!r piece1 8,johan40 ,on ! orphrey 9 front a f\r? angel is display+ a *alice surm\nt$ by a cross & /&+ )9 a f5c$ g>d51 & b5ea? ! %eet ! ^w 8,m>ia40 ,l[] d[n a fif? angel is %[+ ! column & two bundles ( rods1 ) 8,jhesus40 ,la/ ( all !re is an angel ) a napk9 m>k$ ) ! cr[n ( gre5 ?orns & two re$s plac$ saltire-wise1 & ! ^w 8,m>ia40 #acge4 ,saddle-bag ( ,p]sian c>pet+2 gr\nd1 deep crimson2 patt]n1 /ripes 9 v>i\s col\rs runn+ up ! w>p4 ,p]sian4 #c feet #d in*es by #a foot #e in*es4 ,! w>p & weft are ( a /rong co>se texture1 & n only at ! corn]s b ^u ea* p\* !re are tassels4 #acgf4 ,travell+-bag1 ( ! same /uff1 b v>y+ 9 patt]n4 ,p]sian4 #a foot #h in*es by #a foot #g in*es4 #acgh4 ,bag ( wov5 wor/$2 gr\nd1 deep crimson2 patt]n1 n>r[ /ripes figur$ ) div]sifi$ squ>es 9 diff]5t col\rs4 ,p]sian4 #a foot #c in*es by #a foot #b in*es4 ,f ! /r+ ( wor/$ lace atta*$ to ! side x w\ld seem t ?is bag 0 meant to be slung across ! p]son ( ! we>]4 ,none ( ^! ?ree articles are v old4 #acgi4 ,bag ( wov5 silk & wor/$2 gr\nd1 deep crimson wor/$2 patt]n1 horizontal b&s 9 silk figur$1 9 places1 ) f\r-legg$ bea/s1 :ite1 yell[1 r$1 & gre51 & ) v]tical b&s figur$ ) a gre5 net-"w fill$ 9 ) :at look l birds1 crimson1 sep>at$ by a tree4 ,p]sian4 #aa in*es by #aj in*es4 ,mo/ ,p]sian 9 look is ?is bag1 :i*1 f ! ?ick cord atta*$ to x1 seems to h be5 = c>ry+ 9 ! h&4 ,x is l9$ ) br[n l951 & has two /r+s = draw+ ! m\? close up4 ,! two birds repeat$ s (t5 on ! l[] "p1 & sep>at$ by :at looks l a tree1 may be an ornam5t traditionally h&$ d[n f ! times :5 ! ,p]sian sacr$ 8hom0 0 usual 9 ! patt]ns ( t c\ntry4 ,no great antiquity c be claim$ by ! textile be=e u4 #aedg1 #aedh4 ,two ,escut*eons ( ! ,arms ( ,france1 surm\nt$ by a royal cr[n1 & encircl$ ) ! coll>s ( two ord]s--"o ,/4 ,mi*ael1 ! o!r ! ,holy ,gho/--embroid]$ ^u a black gr\nd1 9 gold & silv]1 & ! prop] blazon col\rs4 ,fr5*1 #ag? c5tury4 ,all well & h]aldically done4 #afbb4 ,piece ( ,pr9t$ ,*9tz4 ,old ,engli%1 pres5t$ by ,f4 ,fell+ham1 ,esq4 #bhfd;,a4 ,frame = enamels2 gr\nd1 purple velvet2 patt]n1 scrolls 9 rais$ gold embroid]y4 ,fr5*1 late #ag? c5tury4 #h in*es by #g in*es4 ,! velvet is put on pa/ebo>d4 ,9 ! c5tre1 left uncov]$1 a l>g] enamel mu/ h be5 let 92 ^u ! f\r small circul> & unembroid]$ spaces ( ! velvet1 less] enamels1 or preci\s /ones1 7 sew$4 #bhfe4 ,frame = enamels2 gr\nd1 crimson velvet2 patt]n1 scrolls 9 rais$ gold embroid]y4 ,fr5*1 late #ag? c5tury4 #h in*es by #g in*es4 ,?\gh diff]+ 9 its col\r1 ?is is evid5tly ! fell[ to ! "o j m5tion$4 #djae4 ,mitre2 crimson & gold velvet4 ,flor5t9e1 #ae? c5tury4 #a foot #aj in*es by #aa in*es4 ,?is liturgical curiosity is ( t l[ graceful %ape :i* we f9d 9 mo/ mitres be=e ! #af? c5tury2 9 all probability ?is "o 0 made n = real episcopal use1 b to be employ$ 9 ! s]vice ( ! s-call$ boy-bi%op :o us$1 = c5turies1 to be *os5 e ye> f among ! boys :o s]v$ 9 ! ca!dral1 or ! great *ur*es ( t[ns1 at ,*ri/mas-tide1 z well 9 ,engl& z all ov] ,*ri/5dom2 7see 8,*ur* ( our ,fa!rs10 t4 iv4 p4 #bae74 ,z ! rubrical col\r = episcopal mitres is :ite1 or ( clo? ( gold1 a crimson mitre is ( great r>ity4 ,! "o be=e u is made ( ^? ri* /uffs = :i* ,flor5ce 0 s fam\s1 z may be in/anc$ 9 ! gorge\s ve/m5ts giv5 to ,we/m9/] ,abbey by our ,h5ry ,,vii4 ,! mitre itself is ( crimson velvet1 freckl$ ) gold ?reads1 rais$ 9 a ri* pile ^u a gold5 gr\nd1 ) gre5 fr+$ lappets2 b ! 8titulus10 or upright /ripe be=e & beh9d1 along ) ! 8corona10 or circul> b&1 are all ( a k9d ( lace or wov5 texture ( rais$ velvet1 gre51 :ite1 & crimson1 aft] a pretty design1 ^u a gold5 gr\nd4 ,! mitre is l9$ ?r\gh\t ) light-blue silk4 #djaf4 ,b$-quilt2 gr\nd1 *]ry-col\r$ sat92 patt]n1 birds amid fl[]s & foliage1 9 ! c5tre a d\ble-head$ eagle1 display$4 ,ea/ ,indian 7871 e>ly #ag? c5tury4 #h feet #f in*es by #f feet #aj in*es4 ,! sat9 is poor1 & its col\r fad$2 b ! embroid]y1 ) :i* x is pl5tifully ov]spread1 is ( a ri*1 ?\gh n ta/y1 k9d4 ,birds ( extraord9>y1 &1 no d\bt1 fanciful plumage are ev]y:]e flitt+ ab\t x1 among fl[]s z unusual z !mselves2 b ! gl[+ tones ( ! _m-col\r$ silks 9 :i* !y are wr\ght mu/ /rike e "o's eye4 ,f ! d\ble-head$ eagle1 done 9 gold1 ) w+s blue1 yell[1 & gre51 display$1 x w\ld appe> t ?is quilt 0 wr\ght = "s 7p]haps imp]ial7 h\se 9 ,europe4 #djah4 ,/ate-cap1 ( crimson velvet turn$ up ) :ite sat91 :i* is fac$ ) crimson velvet1 & all embroid]$ 9 gold & silv] ?reads4 ,g]man 7871 late #ag? c5tury4 #ad in*es by #aj in*es4 ,by a v mod]n h& ! words 8,k+ ,*>les0 are writt5 ^u ! gre5 silk l9+2 :at ,*>les1 h[ev]1 is n m5tion$4 ,!re is mu* ab\t ! %ape ( ! cap itself1 & especially 9 ! design ( its embroid]y1 to induce ! belief t x 0 wr\ght & fa%ion$ by a ,g]man h&1 & = ,g]man & n ,engli% use4 ,9 a piece ( tape/ry once belong+ to ! fam\s ,bay>d1 & n[ 9 ! ,imp]ial ,libr>y at ,p>is1 ! same =m ( high-cr[n$ crimson velvet cap is worn by ,pyrrhus :ile he is be+ knight$1 z may be se51 plate #db1 9 ,%aw's 8,dresses & ,decorations ( ! ,middle ,ages10 t4 ii1 borr[$ f ,jub9al's f9e "w on 8,e>ly ,tape/ries40 #djbd4 ,alt>-frontal2 gr\nd1 crimson sat92 subjects1 five apo/les1 ea* "u a ,go?ic canopy1 ) bun*es ( fl[]s betwe5 !m wr\ght 9 col\r$ silks & gold ?read4 ,italian1 late #ae? c5tury4 #g feet #c in*es by #b feet4 ,beg9n+ at ! left-h& we h ,/4 ,paul hold+ a sword1 !n ,/4 ,james ! ,great] ) ! pilgrim-/aff2 9 ! middle1 ,/4 ,?omas hold+ 9 "o h& a spe>1 & giv+ 8 bless+ ) ! "r1 ,/4 ,&rew ) a cross ( l>ge size lean+ aga9/ 8 %\ld]2 &1 la/ ( all1 ,/4 ,john ) an eagle at 8 feet4 ,! figures are bett] done ?an ! ni*es ab\t !m1 :i* are v heavy & bad 9 ta/e1 z are ! bun*es ( fl[]s4 ,! :ole is appli$1 & ^u a m mod]n piece ( crimson sat94 ,! back is l9$ ) leaves ( a pr9t$ book relat+ to ! ,abbey ( ,vallombrosa1 ne> ,flor5ce4 ,hang+ beh9d ?is frontal1 & put toge!r z a backgr\nd to x1 are ,numb]s3-- #deac-deaf4 ,fr+$ ,panels ( ,dome/ic ,furniture2 gr\nd1 deep m>oon velvet2 patt]n1 a small arabesque )9 a squ>e ( ! same design1 9 clo? ( gold edg$ ) gold cord4 ,italian1 #af? c5tury4 ,nos4 #deac & #deae1 ea* #d feet #f in*es by #a foot #d in*es2 ,nos4 #dead & #deaf1 ea* #c feet #g in*es by #a foot #d in*es4 ,b$/eads 9 ,italy are s l>ge t ^! pieces look f> too small to h ev] be5 appli$ to su* a purpose z b$-furniture4 ,!y 71 probably1 ! hang+s = ! head ( a canopy 9 ! ?rone-room ( a palace dur+ ! ye> ( m\rn+ = ! dea? ( its pr9ce4 #djde4 ,*asuble2 ! gr\nd1 tawny-col\r$ velvet2 patt]n1 angels & fl[]s 9 col\r$ flos-silks & gold ?read1 ! orphreys be=e & beh9d figur$ ) sa9ts4 ,engli%1 #ae? c5tury4 #g feet by #c feet4 ,?\gh ! ne$lework ^u ?is *asuble is effective at a di/ance1 l mu* ( ! embroid]y ( ! "t1 bo? 9 ?is c\ntry & abroad1 x is f\nd to be v rude & co>se :5 se5 ne>4 ,! /yle ( ! :ole ornam5tation is s v ,engli% t !re is no mi/ak+ x4 ,! back orphrey is 9 ! %ape ( a cross2 & on x1 & figur$ at top1 ,mel*is$ek ) ?ree loaves 9 8 h&2 b5ea? him1 ! prophet ,mala*i1 on ! left ( :om we h ,abraham ) a l>ge broad sacrificial knife 9 8 h&1 on ! "r1 ,k+ ,david & 8 h>p2 ^! ?ree =m ! transom ( ! cross4 ,go+ d[nw>d1 we see ,/4 ,john ! ,evangeli/ ) ! *alice2 bel[ ?is apo/le1 ,david aga92 &1 la/ ( all1 half ! p]son ( "s sa9t4 ,on ! front orphrey are giv5 ,/4 ,james ! ,great]1 & two prophets ( ! ,old ,law4 ,?is *asuble1 ) its /ole & maniple1 is said to h be5 f\nd at ,ba?1 hidd5 beh9d ! wa9scot ( a h\se !re4 ,c]ta9 x is t ! *asuble has be5 mu* cut d[n4 ,! orig9al size 0 f> l>g]4 #djdf1 #djdf;,a4 ,/ole & ,maniple2 gr\nd1 tawny-col\r$ velvet1 embroid]$ ) fl[]s 9 gold & col\r$ silks4 ,engli%1 #ae? c5tury4 ,/ole1 #h feet #f in*es by #b in*es2 maniple1 #c feet #c in*es by #b in*es4 ,! embroid]y is q ( ! /yle ( ! p]iod1 & 9 "* ) t usually f\nd ^u ! common] class ( ,engli% ve/m5ts1 done 9 flos-silk & gold ?read1 aft] a l>ge design4 ,! velvet is ,italian1 & ?is tone ( col\r seems to h be5 !n 9 fav\r4 #djei4 ,piece ( ,wov5 ,orphrey2 gr\nd1 crimson silk2 subject1 ! ,assumption ( ! ,bless$ ,virg9 ,m>y1 9 yell[ silk4 ,flor5t9e1 #ae? c5tury4 #b feet #i in*es by #h in*es4 ,?is fav\rite subject ( all art-s*ools 9 ! m$ival p]iod is treat$ "h mu* aft] o!r examples 9 ?is collection1 z ,no4 #higg1 c41 b ) "s v>iations1 & bett] design & draw+4 ,! ,et]nal ,fa!r1 ) glory r\nd ,him1 & two *]ubim1 is putt+ a cr[n ^u ! head ( ,/4 ,m>y1 :o is seat$ ^u sunbeams surr\nd$ by angels1 :ile %e drops h] girdle to ,/4 ,?omas z he kneels at h] late grave1 n[ fill$ ) new-bl[n lilies1 & be>+ on its front ! words 8,assunta e/40 8,assunta0 = 8,assumpta0 is ! weav]'s own blund]4 ,dr4 ,bock gives a plate ( x 9 8 8,ges*i*te d] ,liturgis*5 ,gewnd] des ,mittelalt]s10 #a ,b&1 #b ,lief]ung1 pl4 xvi4 #djfa4 ,piece ( ,rais$ ,velvet2 gr\nd1 pale yell[ silk2 patt]n1 9 rais$ velvet1 a l>ge oblong squ>e1 hav+ )9 a bord] ( corn-fl[]s a l>ge />-l infloresc5ce1 & ea* squ>e sep>at$ by a bord] or b& *>g$ ) liliace\s fl[]s1 9 crimson rais$ velvet1 9 "p ^u a silv] gr\nd1 n[ black5$1 surr\nd$ by an ornam5t 9 amb]-/reak$ gre5 9 rais$ velvet4 ,italian1 late #af? c5tury4 #d feet by #a foot #a in*4 ,ano!r ( ! sev]al specim5s ( ! ri* rais$ velvet = furni%+ purposes4 #djfb4 ,purse 9 ,gre5 ,velvet1 embroid]$ ) gold & silv] ?reads1 & at bottom emblazon$ ) a ducal cr[n & two %ields ( arms4 ,fr5*1 #ah? c5tury4 #d in*es 9 diamet]1 #c in*es high4 ,?\gh s small1 ?is little purse is ta/efully & ri*ly wr\ght1 & has nicely work$ d\ble /r+s1 ) gold-cov]$ knobs at _! ends = draw+ its m\? close1 & two o!r l knobs = op5+ x4 ,at bottom x is v ri*ly ornam5t$ ) a gold5 mantle1 ^u :i* are two %ields1 ! "o on ! man's side is azure two lions passant g>dant1 royally cr[n$ or2 t on ! woman's side1 azure a *evron or1 betwe5 two f\r-petal$ & b>b$ fl[]s1 9 *ief1 & a d\ble transom$ cross 9 base arg5t2 ov] bo? %ields is a ducal coronet4 ,no d\bt ?is purse1 :i* is l9$ ) :ite kid-lea!r1 0 "o ( ^? /ill us$ by ladies 9 ,france1 & held 9 _! h&s z !y /& at ! doors or g ab\t ! *ur* at s]vice-"t to collect ! alms ( ! congregation1 = ! poor or o!r pi\s purposes2 ?is "o may h belong$ to an heiress m>ri$ to a duke4 #djfh4 ,/rip ( ,rais$ ,velvet2 gr\nd1 silv] & :ite silk2 patt]n1 a l>ge crimson & gre5 fl[] se$$ gold1 alt]nat+ ) a floriation hav+ fl[]s ( crimson1 tawny1 & purple on gre5 /ems4 ,nor? ,italy1 #af? c5tury4 ,illu/ration3 #djfh4 ,,velvet ,silv] gr\nd1 rais$ floriat$ patt]n1 9 v>i\s col\rs4 ,g5oese1 #af? c5tury4 ,?is f9e specim5 ( rais$ velvet is ( a deep pile & ri* mell[ col\r+4 ,! silv] ?reads ( ! gr\nd h become q dimm$1 :ile ! gold 9 ! fl[] is fre% & gl[+4 ,seem+ly1 ?is piece la/ s]v$ z ! hang+ ( a b$4 #djfi4 ,piece ( ,rais$ ,velvet on a gold gr\nd2 patt]n1 l>ge conv5tional fl[]s & e>s ( corn issu+ out ( a ducal coronet4 ,g5oese1 e>ly #ag? c5tury4 #h feet by #d feet4 ,! gold ( ! gr\nd is n[ s t>ni%$1 & 01 at fir/1 s sp>+ly us$ t n[ x is almo/ invisible2 b ! pile ( ! velvet is deep & ! patt]n bold4 ,d\btless ?is /uff 0 = h\sehold decoration4 #djgj4 ,piece ( ,silk ,brocade2 purple2 patt]n1 9 gold & silv]1 a l>ge vase out ( :i* spr+ two ramifications & two eagles1 "o on ea* side1 alt]nat+ ) a floriation be>+ at top a pomegranate se$$2 9 ! n>r[ bord] at top & bottom ! fleur-de-lis is ! *ief ornam5t1 :ile ! tassel$ fr+e1 design$ at bottom1 %[s t ?is texture mu/ h be5 int5d$ z a hang+ = a frieze4 ,lyons1 late #af? c5tury4 #ab feet by #a foot #aj in*es4 ,! occurr5ce ( birds or animals ( any sort 9 /uffs ( ! p]iod is unusual2 &1 9 all likelihood1 ! la/ use ( ?is piece 0 z a hang+ 9 "s l>ge hall4 #dbji1 #dbaj4 ,pieces ( ,:ite ,brocad$ ,silk4 ,lyons1 #ah? c5tury1 #a foot #d in*es by #aa in*es4 ,! manufacture ( ?is /uff is r rem>kable1 n s mu* = t sat9 look1 produc$ by flos-silk1 9 "s p>ts ( its design ( fl[]-be>+ bran*es1 z by ! way 9 :i* portions ( x are ?r[n up 9 little se$-pe>ls4 #dbaf4 ,piece ( ,ne$lework figur$ ) a female sa9t at h] pray]s be=e a picture ( our ,savi\r1 & a cr[d ( m5 /&+ beh9d h] ne> a belfry1 9 :i* are sw++ two bells4 ,italian1 e>ly #ae? c5tury4 #a foot #d in*es by #aa in*es4 ,by ! co/ume ?is "w w\ld seem to h be5 done 9 ,tuscany1 & x %[s ! b$-room ( "s sa9tly noble dame1 wimpl$ & clad 9 a crimson mantle embroid]$ ) gold4 ,at ! foot ( h] b$ !re is1 wr\ght & diap]$ 9 gold1 a pray+ desk on :i* lies op5 a book 9 silv] hav+ a l>ge ,m 9 r$ m>k$ on its fir/ page2 above is a picture ( our ,r$eem]1 kn[n by ,8 cross$ glory1 9 ! act ( giv+ ,8 bless+1 be=e :om ! sa9t is pray+4 ,at h] knees are two gre5 snakes1 & above h] two angels are c>ry+ h] s\l1 "u h] human =m1 up to heav54 ,beh9d h]1 & close to a belfry1 :]e ! bells are sw++ & ! ropes ( :i* are hang+ d[n1 is a gr\p ( m51 "o a tonsur$ cl]ic1 seem+ly1 f 8 dalmatic1 a deacon1 ) bo? h&s uprais$ 9 surprise2 ne> him o!r cl]ics tonsur$1 two ( :om are read+ ) amazem5t out ( a book held by a noble layman4 ,?is "w conta9s allusions to sev]al ev5ts 9 ! life ( ,/4 ,frances1 wid[1 kn[n 9 ,italy1 z ,santa ,francesca ,romana2 b a v rem>kable "o is "h especially sket*$ =?4 ,%e is said to h (t5 beheld ! pres5ce ( h] gu>dian angel1 clo!d z a deacon1 wat*+ ov] h]4 ,su* 0 ! ob$i5ce & condesc5sion yield$ by h] to h] husb& t1 ?\gh wrapp$ 9 pray]1 or busi$ 9 any spiritual ex]cise1 if call$ by him or anywise ne$$ by ! l[lie/ s]vant 9 h] family1 %e ha/5$ to obey at ! mom5t4 ,x is told ( h]1 t "o day1 be+ ask$ = z _m z f\r times 9 succession1 j z %e 01 ea* "t1 beg9n+ ! same v]se aga91 ( a psalm 9 ! ,(fice ( ! ,bless$ ,virg91 on com+ back = ! fif? "t %e f\nd t v]se writt5 all 9 gold4 ,"h !n we h ! lov+ husb& %[+ ?is pray]-book1 ) its gold5 lett]s1 to a cr[d ( fri5ds1 among :om is 8 wife's angel hidd5 "u a deacon's dalmatic2 :ile ! sa9t h]self is at h] devotions1 =esee+ 9 vision ! evils t are to befall ,italy1 ?r\gh civil /rife1 %[n by ^? s]p5ts & ! sw++ bells betok5+ al>m & fright4 #ddef4 ,table-cov]2 gr\nd1 co>se canvas2 design1 armorial be>+s1 symbolical subjects1 fruits1 & animals1 besides five long inscriptions 9 ,g]man1 dat$ ,a4,d4 #aehe4 ,g]man4 #f feet by #f feet #f in*es4 ,! :ole ( ?is l>ge und]tak+ 0 work$ by "s well-born ,g]man "m z an heirloom to h] (fspr+4 ,at ! "r h& corn]1 done ^u a sep>ate piece ( f9] canvas & aft]w>ds appli$ to ! gr\nd1 is a %ield ( arms1 sable1 ?ree lions rampant or arm$ & langu$ gules two & "o betwe5 a fess arg5t2 at ano!r corn]1 b work$ ^u ! canvas gr\nd itself1 a %ield1 gules ?ree b>s dancett arg5t2 ^u a ?ird %ield1 arg5t1 a fess dancett sable2 on ! la/ corn] %ield1 qu>t]ly or & gules1 a fess arg5t2 ^u a small] %ield 9 ! middle ( ! bord]1 sable a pair ( w+s exp&$ arg5t2 on ! bord] opposite1 p>ty p] fess sable & or1 two cresc5ts arg5t2 9 ! c5tre ( ! next bord]1 gules two b>s 7p]haps7 sable *>g$1 ! upp] "o ) ?ree1 ! l[] ) "o1 bezants or plates2 & la/ ( all1 ^u ! o!r bord]1 or1 a lion rampant1 gules ) *ief vair1 sable1 & or4 ,repeat$ at v>i\s places are a vase surm\nt$ by a cross ) two birds1 half-s]p5t1 half-dove1 sipp+ out ( ! vessel2 & bel[ ?is gr\p ano!r1 consi/+ ( two /ags well 8attir$10 ea* ) "o ho( ^u ! brim ( a f\nta9 out ( :i* !y are ab\t to dr9k4 ,?is latt] symbol is evid5tly a ref]5ce to ! ,psalmi/'s h>t t pante? aft] ! f\nta9s ( wat]1 :ile ! =m] "o is a repres5tation ( ! union ( ! s]p5t's wisdom ) ! simplicity ( ! dove4 ,9 _m anci5t monum5ts ! upp] half ( ! bird is t ( a dove1 ! l[] ends 9 a snake-l %ape ) an eye %[n at ! extremity ( ! tail4 ,!re are five long rhy?mical inscriptions on ?is clo?1 9 ,g]man1 "o at e corn]1 & ! longe/ ( all 9 ! middle2 consid]+ ! p]iod at :i* !y 7 writt51 ^! dogg]el v]ses are v poor1 & run ne>ly z foll[s3-- 8,,als 4 ,,man 4 ,,zalt 4 ,,funfzehn 4 ,,hund]t 4 ,,jahr4 ,,d>zu 4 ,,no* 4 ,,a*tzig 4 ,,und 4 ,,funf 4 ,,zw>4 ,,hat 4 ,,d] 4 ,,edel 4 ,,und 4 ,,ve/ 4 ,,he9ri*4 ,,von 4 ,,geispitzheim 4 ,,die 4 ,,tug5trei*4 ,,anna 4 ,,blick9 4 ,,zum 4 ,,gmal 4 ,,erkorn4 ,,wel*e 4 ,,von 4 ,,ligt5b]g 4 ,,geborn4 ,,beid 4 ,,altes 4 ,,adeli*s 4 ,,ges*le*t4 ,,zusamm5 4 ,,si* 4 ,,v]mehlt 4 ,,re*t4 ,,damit 4 ,,nuhn 4 ,,9 4 ,,ihrem 4 ,,ehe/&t4 ,,vleisig 4 ,,hau%altung 4 ,,wurdt 4 ,,erk&t4 ,,hat 4 ,,sie 4 ,,ihrem 4 ,,tunck]n 4 ,,zu 4 ,,ehrn4 ,,d5 4 ,,hausraht 4 ,,woll5 4 ,,zirn 4 ,,und 4 ,,mehrn4 ,,d>umb 4 ,,mit 4 ,,ihr] 4 ,,eign5 4 ,,h&t4 ,,dies 4 ,,und 4 ,,no* 4 ,,viel 4 ,,zi]li*s 4 ,,gew&t4 ,,zu 4 ,,ihr] 4 ,,g$a*tnis 4 ,,gema*t4 ,,mit 4 ,,beid] 4 ,,ne*/5 4 ,,angh5 4 ,,a*t4 ,,mit 4 ,,gott 4 ,,ihrh 4 ,,tunck]n 4 ,d 4 ,,k9d] 4 ,,z>t4 ,,au* 4 ,,sie 4 ,,erhalte 4 ,,bei 4 ,,wohlfahr?4 ,,d>neb5 4 ,,v]leih5 4 ,,g$ult4 ,,das 4 ,,wir 4 ,,bezahln 4 ,,d] 4 ,,natur 4 ,,s*ult4 ,,na* 4 ,,vollpra*tem 4 ,,lang5 4 ,,leb54 ,,uns 4 ,,all5 4 ,,die 4 ,,ewig 4 ,,freud 4 ,,geb54 ,,am54 ,,obgmelt] 4 ,,he9ri* 4 ,,di*tet 4 ,,mi*4 8,:5 "o wrote ! ye> ,fifte5 hundr$ & ,eighty five1 ! noble & true ,h5ry von ,geispitzheim _h *os5 = 8 sp\se ! virtu\s ,anna ,blick9 von ,li*t5b]g4 ,bo? ( !m 7 ( anci5t noble desc5t4 ,& %e1 to hon\r ! esquire1 h] husb&1 wi%$ to adorn & increase ! h\se furniture1 & !re has work$ ) h] own h& ?is & /ill _m o!r pretty clo?s1 to h] memory4 ,pray+ t ,god may pres]ve ! esquire1 & ! t5d] *ildr51 & h]self also1 & t !y may pay ! debt ( nature at ! end ( a long life1 & et]nal joy may be grant$ !m4 ,am54 ,! a=esaid ,h5ry has compos$ me 7i4e4 ! dogg]el v]ses740 8,,nun 4 ,,folget 4 ,,au* 4 ,,bei 4 ,,die 4 ,,zeit 4 ,,und 4 ,,jahr4 ,,d>9 4 ,,i* 4 ,,zur 4 ,,welt 4 ,,gepohr5 4 ,,w>4 ,,des 4 ,,w5 4 ,,me9 4 ,,drei 4 ,,do*t]le94 ,,au* 4 ,,sonn 4 ,,zur 4 ,,welt 4 ,,gepohr5 4 ,,se94 ,,als 4 ,,man 4 ,,zaltt 4 ,,funff 4 ,,zeh5 4 ,,hund]t 4 ,,lii4 ,,erfreuwet 4 ,,me9 4 ,,mutt] 4 ,,me9 4 ,,ges*rei4 ,,an 4 ,,dem 4 ,,j> 4 ,,a*tzig 4 ,,funff 4 ,,h] 4 ,,na*4 ,,i* 4 ,,me9em 4 ,,junck]n 4 ,,e9 4 ,,do*t] 4 ,,pra*t4 ,,emilia 4 ,,ca?>i5a 4 ,,i/ 4 ,,ihr 4 ,,nahm4 ,,von 4 ,,jug5t 4 ,,g]e*t 4 ,,und 4 ,,lobesam4 ,,zwei 4 ,,jh> 4 ,,d> 4 ,,na* 4 ,,im 4 ,,jann] 4 ,,h>t4 ,,mi* 4 ,,got 4 ,,wi$]um 4 ,,erfreuet 4 ,,hat4 ,,mit 4 ,,e9] 4 ,,do*t] 4 ,,z>t 4 ,,und 4 ,,fe94 ,,sie 4 ,,dr9ckt 4 ,,was] 4 ,,und 4 ,,ke95 4 ,,we94 ,,magdal5a 4 ,,elisabe? 4 ,,g5nant4 ,,jhrem 4 ,,vat] 4 ,,w]? 4 ,,g> 4 ,,wohl 4 ,,bekannt4 ,,na* 4 ,,geh5ts 4 ,,jahr 4 ,,a*tzig 4 ,,a*t4 ,,me95 4 ,,son 4 ,,rei*>t 4 ,,an 4 ,,das 4 ,,li*t 4 ,,gepra*t ,,das 4 ,,w> 4 ,,dem 4 ,,vat] 4 ,,grosse 4 ,,freuwdt4 ,,got 4 ,,sei 4 ,,gelobt 4 ,,9 4 ,,ewigkeit4 ,,das 4 ,,volgt 4 ,,jahr 4 ,,a*tzig 4 ,,und 4 ,,neun4 ,,bra*t 4 ,,i* 4 ,,zur 4 ,,welt 4 ,,die 4 ,,zwil+ 4 ,,me94 ,,hans 4 ,,casp>n 4 ,,er/ 4 ,,drauff 4 ,,emi*5 4 ,,baldt4 ,,das 4 ,,si* 4 ,,erfreudt 4 ,,d] 4 ,,vat] 4 ,,alt4 ,,das 4 ,,ges*a* 4 ,,d5 4 ,,iz 4 ,,hornungs 4 ,,dag4 ,,gots 4 ,,allma*t 4 ,,no* 4 ,,viel 4 ,,mehr 4 ,,v]mag4 ,,zu 4 ,,letz 4 ,,im 4 ,,jahr 4 ,,neuntzig 4 ,,und 4 ,,drei4 ,,anna 4 ,,m>g>e?a 4 ,,kam 4 ,,au* 4 ,,h]bei4 ,,d5 4 ,,zwolfft5 4 ,,febru>ius4 ,,damit 4 ,,i* 4 ,,disse 4 ,,sa* 4 ,,bes*lusz4 ,o 4 ,,ihr 4 ,,h]tz 4 ,,liebe 4 ,,k9dt] 4 ,,me94 ,,i* 4 ,,lasz 4 ,,eu* 4 ,,mir 4 ,,befohl5 4 ,,se94 ,,behtet 4 ,,all5s 4 ,,morg5s 4 ,,ohn 4 ,,"u 4 ,,lasz4 ,,9 4 ,,froligkeit 4 ,,halt 4 ,,gnae 4 ,,masz4 ,,a* 4 ,,ihr 4 ,,h]tz 4 ,,liebe 4 ,,k9dt] 4 ,,me94 ,,ma*t 4 ,,eu* 4 ,,mit 4 ,,gottes 4 ,,wort 4 ,,geme94 ,,s 4 ,,wirt 4 ,,eu* 4 ,,got 4 ,,d] 4 ,,h] 4 ,,erhalt54 ,,das 4 ,,ihr 4 ,,ew]em 4 ,,vat] 4 ,,no* 4 ,,mit 4 ,,ehrn 4 "s lett]s want+ ,,dis5 4 ,,spru* 4 ,,m]ckt 4 ,,eb54 ,,s 4 ,,wirt 4 ,,eu* 4 ,,got 4 ,,glick 4 ,,und 4 ,,sg5 4 ,,gebn4 8,n[ foll[s "h my own bir?day4 ,:5 "o wrote #aeeb my "m's he>t 0 gladd5$ by my fir/ cry4 ,9 ! ye> #aehe ,i gave bir? myself to a daught]4 ,h] "n is ,emilia ,ca?>9a1 & %e has be5 a prop] & praisewor?y *ild4 ,two ye>s lat]1 9 a cold ,janu>y1 has ,god aga9 gratifi$ me ) a daught] t5d] & f9e1 %e dr9ks wat] & no w9e1 h] "n is ,magdal5a ,elizabe?4 ,9 #aehh my son ,ri*>d came into ?is _w1 ^: bir? gave great pleasure to 8 fa!r4 ,9 ! foll[+ ye>1 9 ,febru>y1 ,i gave bir? to my tw9s1 ,hans ,casp> & ,emi* 7,eri*874 ,at la/1 9 #aeic1 on ! #ab? ( ,febru>y1 my daught] ,anna ,m>g>e?a 0 born4--,o y truly belov$ *ildr51 ,i comm5d myself to y\r memory4 ,d n =get y\r pray]s 9 ! morn+4 ,& be temp]ate 9 y\r pleasures4 ,& make y\rselves acqua9t$ ) ! ,^w ( ,god4 ,!n ,god w pres]ve y1 & w grant y happ9ess & bliss40 8,,disz 4 ,,hab 4 ,,i* 4 ,,eu* 4 ,,liebe 4 ,,k9d] 4 ,,me94 ,,9 4 ,,reim5 4 ,,br+5 4 ,,lasz5 4 ,,fe94 ,,auff 4 ,,das 4 ,,ir 4 ,,wu/ 4 ,,euw]s 4 ,,alt]s 4 ,,zeit4 ,,dur* 4 ,,diese 4 ,,me9] 4 ,,h&t 4 ,,arbeit4 ,,wel*s 4 ,,i* 4 ,,eu* 4 ,,zur 4 ,,g$e*tnis 4 ,,las4 ,,und 4 ,,bitt 4 ,,eu* 4 ,,freundli* 4 ,,all] 4 ,,mass4 ,,seidt 4 ,,uffri*tig 4 ,,9 4 ,,all5 4 ,,sa*54 ,,das 4 ,,wirt 4 ,,eu* 4 ,,gosz 4 ,,und 4 ,,h]li* 4 ,,ma*n4 ,,?ut 4 ,,i$em 4 ,,ehr 4 ,,na* 4 ,,se9em 4 ,,/&t4 ,,das 4 ,,wirt 4 ,,eu* 4 ,,rumli* 4 ,,ma*5 4 ,,bek&t4 ,,und 4 ,,ihr 4 ,,h]tz 4 ,,liebe 4 ,,sone 4 ,,me94 ,,wolt 4 ,,eu* 4 ,,hut5 4 ,,vor 4 ,,v]igem 7feurigem7 4 ,,we94 ,,dr9ckt 4 ,,d5 4 ,,we9 4 ,,mit 4 ,,bes*eid5heit4 ,,da 4 ,,si*s 4 ,,geburtt 4 ,,das 4 ,,pehut 4 ,,vor 4 ,,leidt4 ,,und 4 ,,ihr 4 ,,h]tz 4 ,,liebe 4 ,,do*t] 4 ,,me94 ,,la/ 4 ,,eu* 4 ,,alle 4 ,,tug5t 4 ,,betol5 4 ,,se94 ,,bew>t 4 ,,euh] 4 ,,ehr 4 ,,hapt 4 ,,euhr 4 ,,gut 4 ,,a*t4 ,,b$5ckt 4 ,,zu 4 ,,vor 4 ,,jde 4 ,,sa*4 ,,dan 4 ,,vor 4 ,,ge?an 4 ,,und 4 ,,na* 4 ,,b$ra*t4 ,,hat 4 ,,man*5 4 ,,weit 4 ,,zuruck 4 ,,gebra*t4 ,,das 4 ,,mitell 4 ,,dis 4 ,,alles 4 ,,zu 4 ,,gep54 ,,i/ 4 ,,die 4 ,,=*t 4 ,,gottes 4 ,,m]ckt 4 ,,mi* 4 ,,eb54 ,,gotts 4 ,,=*t 4 ,,br+t 4 ,,wei%eit 4 ,,und 4 ,,v]/ant4 ,,d> 4 ,,dor* 4 ,,gesegnet 4 ,,wirdt 4 ,,das 4 ,,l&t4 ,,gots 4 ,,=*t 4 ,,ma*t 4 ,,rei* 4 ,,br+t 4 ,,fr$ 4 ,u 4 ,,muht4 ,,erfris*t 4 ,,das 4 ,,leb5 4 ,,und 4 ,,das 4 ,,blut4 ,,gotes 4 ,,=*t 4 ,,behutt 4 ,,vor 4 ,,allem 4 ,,leidt4 ,,und 4 ,,i/ 4 ,,e9 4 ,,weg 4 ,,zur 4 ,,seligkeit4 ,,gottes 4 ,,=*t 4 ,,i/ 4 ,,das 4 ,,re*t 4 ,,fundam5t4 ,,d>uff 4 ,,des 4 ,,m5s*5 4 ,,glick 4 ,,bew5dt4 ,,und 4 ,,i/ 4 ,,e9 4 ,,hauptmittel 4 ,,all] 4 ,,dug5t4 ,,w] 4 ,,si* 4 ,,d] 4 ,,animpt 4 ,,9 4 ,,d] 4 ,,jug5t4 ,,dem 4 ,,geht 4 ,,se9 4 ,,alt] 4 ,,an 4 ,,mit 4 ,,ehr54 ,,und 4 ,,se9 4 ,,glick 4 ,,wird 4 ,,si* 4 ,,tagli* 4 ,,mehr54 ,,d> 4 ,,dur* 4 ,,d] 4 ,,m5s* 4 ,,zum 4 ,,selig 4 ,,endt4 ,,letzli* 4 ,,gelangt 4 ,,a* 4 ,,h] 4 ,,uns 4 ,,s5dt4 ,,de9 4 ,,heilig] 4 ,,gei/ 4 ,,d] 4 ,,uns 4 ,,?ut 4 ,,e9fr54 ,,zu 4 ,,sol*] 4 ,,=*t 4 ,,die 4 ,,wol 4 ,,eu* 4 ,,rihr54 ,,ew] 4 ,,h]tz 4 ,,und 4 ,,s9 4 ,,ihr 4 ,,soli* 4 ,,=*t4 ,,ergreiff5 4 ,,kont 4 ,,und 4 ,,got 4 ,,gehr*t4 ,,am5 4 ,,das 4 ,,w]dt 4 ,,w>h 4 ,g 4 ,,gott 4 ,,die 4 ,,erh4 8,?is1 ,o my de> *ildr51 has at my wi% be5 put into rhymes1 9 ord] t y may "k y\r age by ?is "w ( my own h&1 :i* ,i leave to y z a memorial4 ,i besee* y to be s9c]e 9 all matt]s2 t w make y great & glori\s4 ,hon\r ev]ybody accord+ to 8 /ation2 x w make y hon\rably kn[n4 ,y1 my truly belov$ sons1 bew>e ( fi]y w9e1 & dr9k ) mod]ation2 t w pres]ve y f evil4 ,& y1 my truly belov$ daught]s1 let me recomm5d y to be virtu\s4 ,pres]ve & gu>d y\r hon\r2 & reflect be=e y d any?+2 = _m h be5 l$ into evil by act+ fir/ & reflect+ aft]w>ds4 ,! way to get to ?is end is ! fe> ( ,god1 m>k me well6 ,! fe> ( ,god br+s wisdom & und]/&+4 ,! fe> ( ,god makes ri*1 & gives joy & c\rage1 refre%es life & blood4 ,! fe> ( ,god protects u f all evil2 & is ! way to ! /ate ( bliss4 ,! fe> ( ,god is ! f\ndation on :i* ! happ9ess ( man re/s2 & is ! *ief way to all virtues4 ,he :o seeks x 9 8 y\? w live ) hon\r till 8 old age2 & 8 happ9ess w daily increase4 8,am54 ,give to ,god all hon\r40 8,,als 4 ,,man 4 ,,zalt 4 ,,fufzehn 4 ,,hund]t 4 ,,jahr4 ,,und 4 ,,neuntzig 4 ,,neun 4 ,,d>zu 4 ,,j/ 4 ,,w>4 ,,d5 4 ,,er/5 4 ,,april 4 ,,na* 4 ,,mitna*t4 ,,glei* 4 ,,umb 4 ,,e9 4 ,,uhr 4 ,,(ft 4 ,,i*s 4 ,,betra*t4 ,,d] 4 ,,all]lieb/e 4 ,,junck] 4 ,,me94 ,,g5&t 4 ,,he9ri* 4 ,,von 4 ,,geispitzheim4 ,,zu 4 ,,dir 4 ,o 4 ,,gott 4 ,,aus 4 ,,dies] 4 ,,welt4 ,,er=d]t 4 ,,wirt 4 ,,als 4 ,,dirs 4 ,,gefellt4 ,,se9 4 ,,alt] 4 ,,w> 4 ,,se*zig 4 ,,und 4 ,,a*t4 ,,die 4 ,,wass] 4 ,,su*t 4 ,,ihn 4 ,,umgepra*t4 ,,d5 4 ,,wolle/ 4 ,o 4 ,,gott 4 ,,gn$ 4 ,,geb54 ,,se9 4 ,,pfleg5 4 ,,na* 4 ,,dem 4 ,,will5 4 ,,de94 ,,j* 4 ,,se9 4 ,,betruebte 4 ,,na*gelass5 4 ,,ann4 ,,blick9 4 ,,von 4 ,,lie*t5p]g 4 ,,g5&t4 ,,hab 4 ,,mit 4 ,,ni*t 4 ,,"u 4 ,,lass5 4 ,,woll54 ,,sond]n 4 ,,e9 4 ,,soli*es 4 ,,hie 4 ,,meld5 4 ,,soll54 ,,9 4 ,,diesem 4 ,,tu* 4 ,,mit 4 ,,me9] 4 ,,h&t4 ,,damit 4 ,,es 4 ,,w]d 4 ,,me95 4 ,,k9d]n 4 ,,bek&t4 ,,dieses 4 ,,me9 4 ,,grosses 4 ,,leid4 ,,wel*es 4 ,,mir 4 ,,von 4 ,,gott 4 ,,w>d 4 ,,b]eit4 8,:5 "o wrote ! ye> ,fifte5 hundr$ & n9ety-n9e1 on ! fir/ ( ,april aft] midnight1 j at "o o'clock--(t5 ,i ?9k ( x--my truly belov$ husb&1 ! ,squire ,h5ry von ,geispitzheim1 0 call$ to ,!e1 ,o ,god6 f ?is _w1 accord+ to ,?y w4 ,8 age 0 sixty & eight ye>s4 ,! dropsy has kill$ him4 ,to him grant1 ,o ,god6 ,?y m]cy1 aft] ,?y w4 ,i1 8 afflict$ ,anna ,blick9 von ,lie*t5p]g :o 0 left beh9d1 h relat$ x ) my h& 9 ?is clo?1 t x might be kn[n to my *ildr5--?is my great sorr[1 :i* ,god has s5t me40 8,,d5 4 ,,funfft5 4 ,,augu/ 4 ,,baldt 4 ,,h]na*4 ,,wi$]um 4 ,,si* 4 ,,fugt 4 ,,e9 4 ,,leidig 4 ,,sa*4 ,,me9 4 ,,jung/] 4 ,,son 4 ,,eim* 4 ,,e9 4 ,,zwill+4 ,,von 4 ,,dies] 4 ,,welt 4 ,,abs*i$t 4 ,,gab 4 ,,gehl+s4 ,,d>dur* 4 ,,w>dt 4 ,,mir 4 ,,me9 4 ,,leid 4 ,,gem]t4 ,,und 4 ,,alle 4 ,,h(fnung 4 ,,umbgek]?4 ,,a* 4 ,,gott 4 ,,las 4 ,,di*s 4 ,,mi5] 4 ,,erb>m54 ,,und 4 ,,kom 4 ,,zu 4 ,,tro/ 4 ,,und 4 ,,hilff 4 ,,mir 4 ,,arm54 ,,hilf 4 ,,treuw] 4 ,,got 4 ,,und 4 ,,/eh 4 ,,bei 4 ,,mi*4 ,,tro/ 4 ,,mi* 4 ,,mit 4 ,,de9em 4 ,,gei/ 4 ,,gn$iggli*4 ,,und 4 ,,behut 4 ,,mir 4 ,,me9 4 ,,liebe 4 ,,k9dt4 ,,s 4 ,,bisz 4 ,,no* 4 ,,gesund 4 ,,uebrig 4 ,,s9t4 ,,und 4 ,,s*aff 4 ,o 4 ,,got 4 ,,das 4 ,,wir 4 ,,zugli*4 ,,di* 4 ,,s*au 4 ,,d5 4 ,,im 4 ,,himmel 4 ,,ewigli*4 ,,d>zu 4 ,,hilff 4 ,,uns 4 ,,gn$igkli*4 ,,a* 4 ,,h] 4 ,,v] 4 ,,gieb 4 ,,all 4 ,,uns] 4 ,,s*ult4 ,,hilff 4 ,,das 4 ,,w>t5 4 ,,mit 4 ,,g$ult4 ,,bies 4 ,,uns] 4 ,,/untl9 4 ,,na*t 4 ,,h]bei4 ,,au* 4 ,,uns] 4 ,,glaube 4 ,,/etz 4 ,,wack] 4 ,,sei4 ,,de9 4 ,,wort 4 ,,zu 4 ,,drauw5 4 ,,te/igkli*4 ,,bis 4 ,,wir 4 ,,endt 4 ,,s*laff5 4 ,,seligkli*4 8,on ! fif? ( ,augu/ soon aft]w>ds ano!r sorr[ful ev5t happ5$4 ,my y\nge/ son ,eimah 7,eri*871 "o ( my tw9s1 sudd5ly dep>t$ f ?is _w2 & !re=e my sorr[ 0 increas$1 & all hope ov]?r[n4 ,o ,god6 h m]cy ^u me1 & come to com=t & help me1 poor "o4 ,help1 true ,god6 & assi/ me1 com=t me ) ,?y ,_s1 & protect me & my de> *ildr5 :o are /ill left 9 good heal?4 ,& grant1 ,o ,god6 t we !n may behold ,!e 9 ,heav5 et]nally4 ,o ,"l6 =give u our trespasses1 help t we may wait ) pati5ce until our la/ h\r may come2 & also t our fai? may be true1 to believe 9 ,?y ,^w /eadfa/ly until we s9k into ! slumb] ( dea?40 #ddeg4 ,table-cov] ( :ite l951 figur$ 9 ?read1 ) ! 8,agnus ,dei10 or 8,holy ,lamb10 9 ! middle1 & ! symbolic animals ( ! f\r ,evangeli/s1 "o at ea* corn]4 ,g]man1 late #af? c5tury4 #f feet #c in*es by #e feet #h in*es4 ,= its sort & "t !re is no?+ sup]ior to ?is f9e piece ( ne$lework4 ,ab\t ! evangelic emblems1 z well z ! ,lamb 9 ! c5tre1 !re is a fre$om & boldness ( design only equall$ by ! beauty & nicety ( execution1 mak+ ! piece altoge!r q an art-"w4 ,! little dogs *as+ ! "y h>ts1 z well z ! rampant unicorns1 b especially ! bird ( ! /ork-k9d pre5+ its fea!rs1 & ! /ag look+ back at ! h\nd beh9d1 all s admirably plac$ amid ! bran*es s gracefully tw9+ ov] ! :ole field1 %[ a ma/]'s spirit$ h& 9 _! design4 ,un=tunately1 h[ev]1 none ( its beauty c be se5 unless1 l a piece ( /a9$ glass1 x be hung up to ! light4 ,its use 0 mo/ likely liturgic1 & occasions = x n unfrequ5tly occur 9 ! ye>'s ritual r\nd2 & on ,c&lemas-day & ,palm ,sunday x might becom+ly h be5 spread ov] ! tempor>y table on ! s\? side ( ! alt>1 ^u :i* 7 put1 = ! especial occasion1 ! tap]s = ! "o s]vice1 & ! palm-bran*es = ! o!r1 dur+ ! c]emony ( bless+ !m be=e _! di/ribution4 #ddeh4 ,l95 ,napk92 ! f\r corn]s embroid]$ 9 crimson ?read4 ,g]man1 #ag? c5tury4 #c feet by #b feet #f in*es4 ,! design consi/s ( a /ag at re/ c\*ant1 & an imag9>y figure1 half a w+$ human =m1 half a two-legg$ s]p5t1 sep>at$ by a fl[] ( ! c5taurea k9d4 ,?is is repeat$ on ! o!r side ( ! squ>e1 up ! middle ( :i* runs an ornam5tation made out ( a love-knot1 surm\nt$ by a he>t1 spr\t+ out ( :i* is a /alk be>+ a f\r-petal$ fl[]1 & !n a /em ) ! usual corn-fl[] at ! end ( x4 ,to all appe>ance1 ?is l95 napk9 0 = h\sehold use4 #ddei4 ,l95 ,cradle-,cov]let2 gr\nd1 f9e :ite l952 patt]n1 ! ,crucifixion1 ) ,sa9ts & ! ,evangeli/s' emblems1 all outl9$ 9 v>i\s-col\r$ silk ?read2 dat$ #aeij4 ,g]man4 #f feet by #f feet #f in*es4 ,?is piece ( ne$lework is figur$ ) ! ,crucifixion 9 ! middle1 & %[s u1 on "o side1 ! ,bless$ ,virg9 ,m>y & ,/4 ,*ri/oph]2 on ! o!r1 ,/4 ,john & ! ,bless$ ,virg9 ,m>y hold+ our ,"l 9 h] arms1 &1 at h] feet1 a y\?ful virg9-sa9t1 mo/ likely ,/4 ,ca!r9e ( ,si5na4 ,f ! cross itself fl[]s are 9 "s places spr\t+ out1 & ?ree angels are cat*+1 9 *alices1 ! sacr$ blood t is gu%+ f ! w\nds on ! body ( our ,"l4 ,at ea* corn] is an evangeli/'s symbol1 & ! :ole is fram$ 9 a broad bord] 9 crimson & :ite silk1 edg$ by cro*et-"w1 & at ! corn]s are ! lett]s ,a4 ,h4 ,a4 ,r4 ,?\gh ! figures are 9 m]e outl9e !y are well design$1 b poorly1 feebly execut$ by ! ne$le4 ,ano!r specim5 ( a cradle-quilt1 mu* l ?is1 is ,no4 #acdd1 & "u ,no4 #dfdd notice is tak5 ( feel+ = ! employm5t ( ! f\r ,evangeli/s' symbols at ! corn]s ( ?is nurs]y furniture4 #ddfj4 ,l95 ,napk92 embroid]$ at "o end ) two wrea?s ( fl[]s above a n>r[ floral bord]2 x is edg$ ) lace1 & be>s ! date #afgb1 & ! initials ,a4 ,m4 ,w4 ,g]man1 #c feet #f in*es by #a foot #f in*es4 ,probably meant to hang 9 ! sacri/y = ! prie/ to wipe 8 f+]s on aft] wa%+ ! tips ( !m1 be=e ve/+ = mass4 #ddfa4 ,l95 ,table-,cov]2 patt]n1 a wide floriation done 9 :ite & yell[ ?reads2 9 ! c5tre1 a flag c\*ant )9 a wrea?4 ,g]man1 late #af? c5tury4 #e feet #d in*es by #d in*es4 ,free 9 design & easy ( execution4 #ddfb4 ,embroid]y on ,silk ,net2 gr\nd1 crimson2 patt]n1 bran*es tw9$ into ovals1 & be>+ fl[]s & foliage1 9 v>i\s-col\r$ silks1 & height5$1 9 places1 ) gold & silv] ?read4 ,italian1 late #ag? c5tury4 #b feet #h in*es by #i in*es4 ,a v pleas+ & exce$+ly well-wr\ght specim5 ( its /yle4 ,l 9 mann]1 b mu* bett] done ?an ! examples at ,nos4 #fbc1 #fbd4 ,no d\bt x 0 meant = female adornm5t4 #debb4 ,alt>-frontal2 embroid]$ 9 ! middle ) n9e repres5tations ( ! bir?1 c4 ( our ,"l2 & f\r passages f ! ,sa9ts' lives on ea* side1 all 9 gold & v>i\s-col\r$ silks1 ^u f9e l954 ,italian1 #ad? c5tury4 #d feet #c in*es by #a foot #h in*es4 ,?is frontal is said to h be5 br\ght f ,orvieto2 b 9 x !re is no?+ ab\t ! celebrat$ relic kept 9 ! v beautiful & spl5did %r9e 9 t f9e ca!dral4 ,s v worn is ?is piece ( embroid]y1 t sev]al panels ( x are q indi/9ct4 ,x may be1 h[ev]1 di/+ui%$ into ?ree p>ts--! c5tre & ! two sides4 ,9 ! fir/ we h1 9 n9e comp>tm5ts1 ! ,annunciation1 ! ,nativity1 ! com+ ( ! ,wise ,m51 ! ,bless$ ,virg9 ,m>y1 ) ,/4 ,joseph1 go+ to ! temple & c>ry+ 9 a basket h] pair ( turtle-doves1 :i* %e is giv+ to ,simeon2 ! ,la/ ,supp]2 our ,"l be+ tak5 9 ! g>d52 ! ,crucifixion2 ! burial2 ! ,resurrection ( our ,savi\r2 on ! "r side1 ! leg5d ( ,/4 ,*ri/oph]1 mix$ up ) t ( ,/4 ,julian ,hospital]2 on ! left are passages f ! life ( ,/4 ,ubaldo1 bi%op ( ,gubbio 9 ! middle ( ! #ab? c5tury4 ,9 ! fir/ squ>e is ! sa9t mildly =giv+ ! ma/]-mason :o c>ri$ ! new walls ( ! city across a v9ey>d belong+ to ,/4 ,ubaldo1 &1 :5 reprov$ ab\t ! wrong ?us done to private prop]ty1 knock$ d[n ! sa9t2 9 ! second we behold ! sa9t at ! b$side ( a conv]t$ s9n]1 ^: s\l1 j brea!d =?1 an angel is ab\t to waft to heav52 9 ! ?ird we h be=e u ! sa9t himself1 ^u 8 dy+ b$1 surr\nd$ by fri5ds1 "o ( :om--a lady--is ?r[+ up bo? h] arms 9 great affright at ! sudd5 appe>ance ( a possess$ man :o has ca/ himself ^u 8 knees at ! b$foot1 &1 ) "o h& out/ret*$ ^u ! b$1 is fre$ f ! evil _s1 :i* is fly+ (f ov] head 9 %ape ( a devil-imp2 9 ! la/ ! sa9t is be+ drawn 9 an op5 bi]1 by two ox51 to *ur* = burial1 foll[$ by a cr[d1 among :om is 8 deacon4 ,f ! subjects on ?is mu*-decay$ frontal1 figur$1 z x is1 ) ! life ( ,/4 ,ubaldo1 kn[n = 8 love ( ! poor1 8 k9dness to wayf>]s & pilgrims1 & 8 heal+ ( ! sick1 z well z ) ! leg5ds ( ,/4 ,julian & ,/4 ,*ri/oph]1 rem>kable = ! same virtues1 we may inf] t ?is ecclesia/ical appliance hung at ! alt> ( "s poor h\se or hospital1 9 by-gone days1 at ,orvieto4 #dfdc4 ,b& ( ,gimp ,op5work1 crimson & gold ?read4 ,g]man 7871 #ah? c5tury4 #a foot #aj in*es by #a in*4 ,evid5tly = ladies' use1 b h[ employ$ is n s cle>2 f a little /eel r+ sew$ to x1 p]haps x may h be5 worn hang+ f ! hair beh9d ! neck4 #dfdd4 ,cradle-quilt2 gr\nd1 gre5 sat91 embroid]$ ) armorial be>+s1 ! f\r ,evangeli/s1 & fl[]s1 all 9 col\r$ silks1 & dat$ #afab4 ,g]man4 #b feet #e in*es by #a foot #i in*es4 ,)9 a n>r[ wrea? ( leaves & fl[]s !re are two %ields1 ( :i* ! fir/ be>s gules a :eel or1 surm\nt$ by a clos$ helmet1 hav+ its mantl+s ( or & gules1 & on a wrea? gules a :eel or z a cre/2 ! second1 azure1 a cross c\p$ arg5t betwe5 a fac$ cresc5t & a ducal coronet1 bo? or1 & all plac$ 9 pile1 surm\nt$ by a clos$ helmet hav+ its mantl+s ( or & azure1 & on a wrea? or1 a demy be> prop] ) a cross arg5t on its brea/1 cr[n$ ) a ducal coronet or1 & hold+ 9 its paws a fac$ cresc5t or4 ,at ea* ( ! f\r corn]s is ! emblem ( an evangeli/ ) 8 "n1 & %[n z a human p]sonage nimb$ & com+ out ( a fl[]1 ) 8 appropriate emblem uphold+ an op5 volume :i* he has 9 8 h&s1 ?us call+ to m9d ^? nurs]y rhymes3-- 8,mat!w1 ,m>k1 ,luke1 & ,john1 ,gu>d ! b$ ,i lie ^u10 c42 :i* seem to be z well kn[n 9 ,g]many z !y 71 & yet are1 9 ,engl&4 ,see 8,*ur* ( ,our ,fa!rs10 t4 iii4 p4 #bcj4 #dfde4 ,cradle-quilt2 c5tre1 crimson silk1 embroid]$ ) fl[]s 9 col\r$ silk1 mo/ly outl9$ ) gold ?read1 & "h & !re spr9kl$ ) gold ornam5tations1 & surr\nd$ by a broad sat9 quilt+ edg$ ) a gold lace-l bord]4 ,g]man1 late #ag? c5tury4 #b feet #g in*es by #b feet #b in*es4 ,! cradle-clo?s1 or quilts1 are ( common occurr5ce1 & af=d occasions = mu* elegance ( design4 #dfdf4 ,cradle-quilt2 gr\nd1 br[n silk2 patt]n1 a wrea? ( gre5 leaves encircl+ two armorial %ields1 & fill$ 9 ) fl[]s outside ! sp&rils2 ! :ole surr\nd$ by a bord] ( fl[]s1 all 9 v>i\s-col\r$ flos-silk4 ,g]man1 late #af? c5tury4 #c feet by #b feet #e in*es4 ,( ! two %ields ! fir/ is p>ty p] fess azure & sable1 a griff9 rampant or hold+ ?ree e>s ( :eat2 ! %ield itself surm\nt$ by a helmet clos$1 hav+ gre5 mantl+s & cre/$ ) a ducal coronet out ( :i* issues a demi-griff9 rampant hold+ ?ree e>s ( :eat or4 ,! second %ield is p>ty p] fess sable & or1 a lion rampant or n\$1 & langu$ gules1 c\nt]*ang$ or & sable1 surm\nt$ by a clos$ helmet ) gre5 mantl+s1 & cre/$ ) a demy-lion rampant or1 langu$ gules issu+ f a wrea? sable & or 7n[ fad$74 ,by means ( a long slit ) hooks & eyes to x a blanket might be introduc$ to make ?is cov]let w>m]4 #dfdg4 ,sat9 ,b$-quilt2 ! middle a silk brocade diap]$ ) a l>ge floriation )9 a broad wrea?-l b&1 all bright amb] ^u a crimson gr\nd2 ! broad bord] is ( crimson sat91 quilt$1 aft] an elaborate patt]n %[n by a cord+ ( blue & gold4 ,fr5*1 #ag? c5tury4 #f feet by #e feet #f in*es4 #dfdh4 ,sat9 ,b$-quilt2 ! middle1 silk brocade diap]$ ) a some:at small floriation1 9 bright amb] & :ite ^u a crimson gr\nd4 ,! wide bord]1 9 crimson sat9 ( ri* mat]ial & brilliant tone1 is quilt$ aft] an agreeable design ) yell[ cord4 ,fr5*1 #ag? c5tury4 #g feet #aj in*es by #e feet #d in*es4 #dfdi4 ,liturgical ,sc>f2 gr\nd1 :ite silk2 patt]n1 bun*es ( leaves & fl[]s1 9 v>i\s-col\r$ silk ?read4 ,fr5*1 #ah? c5tury4 #aa feet #e in*es by #a foot #d in*es4 ,su* sc>ves are us$ = ?r[+ on ! lect]n1 & to be worn by ! sub-deacon at high mass2 &1 f its appe>ance1 ?is "o mu/ h se5 mu* s]vice4 ,all its fl[]s1 z well z its two edg+s1 are work$ 9 braid1 nicely sew$ on & admirably done4 #dffa4 ,long ,piece ( ,silk ,brocade2 gr\nd1 light m>oon2 patt]n1 creamy :ite scrolls1 dott$ ) blue fl[]ets1 & plac$ s z to =m a wavy l9e all up ! w>p amid bun*es ( r$ & blue fl[]s & leaves4 ,lyons1 late #ag? c5tury4 #h feet #f in*es by #a foot #g in*es4 ,! col\rs are fad$ some:at1 & ?\gh %[y1 ?is /uff is n s gl>+ 9 its design z 7 ! silks t came1 at a lat] p]iod1 f ! same looms4 ,if us$ 9 ! liturgy1 x mu/ h be5 = cov]+ ! moveable lect]n = hold+ ! ,book ( ! ,gospels1 out ( :i* ! deacon at high mass *ants ! gospel ( ! day4 ,x might1 too1 h s]v$ z a veil = ! sub-deacon = muffl+ 8 h&s :ile he held ! pat5 aft] ! (f]tory4 #dffe4 ,pair ( ,lady's ,gloves ( kid lea!r1 ) ri*ly embroid]$ cuffs4 ,fr5*1 late #ag? c5tury4 #ac in*es by #g in*es4 ,! h&s are ( a light olive tone1 & embroid]$ on ! "u seams 9 gold2 ! cuffs are deep1 & embroid]$ 9 gold & silv] aft] a ri* design ^u crimson silk1 & are unit$ by ! novelty ( a gusset =m$ ( ?ree pieces ( broad crimson ribbon4 #dfff4 ,purse 9 gold tissue1 embroid]$ ) fl[]s 9 pots1 & b\nd ) ribbons 9 silv] & col\rs4 ,fr5*1 #ah? c5tury4 #e in*es by #d in*es4 ,"s ( ! fl[]s are spr++ up f silv] baskets2 o!rs are ti$ up ) silv] ribbons1 & ! :ole pleas+ly done4 #dffg4 ,purse 9 gold & silv] embroid]y1 ) gilt clasp4 ,engli%1 #ai? c5tury4 #d in*es by #d in*es4 ,! design ( ?is is pretty1 & consi/s ( small gold & silv] disks wr\ght 9 ?read1 & l9k$ toge!r by a /rong gre5 silk nett+4 #dhid4 ,velvet ,hang+2 gr\nd1 black2 patt]n1 a frieze made up ( a fl[]-be>+ vase betwe5 two broad horns ( pl5ty1 full ( fruits1 & two imag9>y h]aldic mon/]s1 "o on ea* side1 l support]s1 fa%ion$ z r$-tongu$ eagles1 ) w+s display$ 9 ! head1 b hav+ a tailless haun*1 & clov5-foot$ legs ( an ox2 ! fimbriations are edg$ ) gre5 fr+e1 & ! spaces fill$ ) a conv5tional floriation2 & ! great] p>ts done 9 yell[ sat91 small] p>ts 9 o!r col\r$ sat9s1 all edg$ ) gold cord+ & silv] ?read1 & appli$ to ! gr\nd ( black velvet4 ,fr5*1 e>ly #ag? c5tury4 #be in*es by #ab in*es4 ,! :ole ( ?is curi\s piece is design$ ) great boldness & _s1 & mo/ accurately wr\ght4 #effb4 ,f\r ,pieces ( ,rais$ ,velvet1 sew$ into "o l>ge squ>e2 gr\nd1 yell[ & crimson silk2 patt]n1 a bold floriation 9 rais$ crimson velvet4 ,g5oese1 #af? c5tury4 ,a f9e specim5 ( ! ,g5oese loom1 %[+ a well-manag$ design compos$ ( a modification ( ! arti*oke1 mix$ ) pomegranates1 e>s ( corn 7r an unusual ornam5t71 roses1 & l>ge liliaci\s fl[]s4 ,n unlikely ?is /uff 0 ord]$ by "s ,spani% nobleman = hang+s 9 ! /ate halls ( 8 palace4 ,su* /uffs are sometimes to be se5 on ! canopy 9 ! ?rone-room ( "s ,roman pr9cely h\se1 ^: own]s h ! old feudal "r to ! clo? ( e/ate4 #effc4 ,set ( ,b$ ,hang+s complete1 9 gre5 cut velvet rais$ ^u a yell[ sat9 gr\nd1 diap]$ 9 gold4 ,g5oese1 #af? c5tury4 ,! foliat$ scroll patt]n ( ?is truly ri* /uff is execut$ 9 a bold & tell+ mann]2 & ! amb] sat9 gr\nd is m>k$ ) a small b pleas+ k9d ( diap]1 :i* is done 9 gold ?read4 ,to give a great] effect to ! velvet1 :i* is deep 9 its pile1 a cord ( gre5 & gold /&s /it*$ to x z an edg+4 #effd1 #effd;,a4 ,two ,pieces ( ,embroid]y2 gr\nd1 light purple1 ?9 net l9$ ) blue canvas2 patt]n1 nosegays ( :ite & r$ fl[]s & l>ge gre5 bran*es ti$ up 9 bun*es1 ) :ite & ) yell[ ribbons alt]nately2 ! n>r[ bord]s1 :i* are slightly scollop$1 are figur$ ) sprigs ( roses2 & ! :ole is done 9 bright-col\r$ untwi/$ silks1 & has ?r\gh\t a l9+ ( ?9 :ite silk4 ,fr5*1 late #af? c5tury4 #aj feet #i in*es by #b feet #i in*es4 ,ea* piece consi/s ( two l5g?s ( ! same embroid]y sew$ toge!r all along ! middle2 & s]v$ = "s h\sehold decoration4 #effe4 ,embroid]$ ,table-cov]2 gr\nd1 gre5 clo?2 patt]n1 )9 a l>ge g>l& ( fruits & fl[]s1 sep>at$ into f\r p>ts by z _m *]ubic heads1 two armorial %ields & a scroll be>+ ! date #aeih1 & ! f\r sides bord]$ ) an entablature fill$ 9 ) animals1 fruits1 fl[]s1 & ar*itectural tablets hav+ ab\t !m ornam5ts ( ! /rap-l =m1 & ea* *>g$ ) a female face4 ,s\? ,g]many1 #af? c5tury4 #e feet #g in*es by #e feet #c in*es4 ,! design ( ! embroid]y1 done 9 v>i\s-col\r$ wor/$s1 is admirable1 & q 9 accordance ) ! be/ types ( t p]iod2 nor ought we to ov]look ! arti/ic mann] 9 :i* ! col\rs are ev]y:]e ab\t x s well contra/$4 ,! animals are sev]al1 n =gett+ ! unicorn & monkey2 ?\gh1 f ! frequ5cy ( ! ,alp9e de] k9d1 x looks z if ?is f9e piece ( "w _h be5 sket*$ & execut$ by ^? famili> ) ! ,alps4 ,! %ields are1 fir/1 b>ry ( six arg5t & azure1 ) mantl+s ab\t a helmet clos$ & cre/$ ) a demi-bloodh\nd coll>$ & langu$1 &1 f ! neck d[nw>d1 b>ry l ! %ield2 second1 qu>t]ly #a & #d or *>g$ ) a pair ( p9c]s sable2 #b & #c sable1 a lion rampant or1 & mantl+s ab\t a helmet clos$ & cre/$ ) a demi-lion rampant or1 ^u a wrea? sable & arg5t4 ,! silv] has n[ become q black4 #efff4 ,table-cov]2 gr\nd1 d>k gre5 s]ge2 patt]n1 embroid]$ 9 silk & ?read1 ! f\r seasons & _! occupations1 c41 & 9 ! c5tre ! ,annunciation4 ,g]man1 e>ly #ag? c5tury4 #e feet #c in*es by #d feet #f in*es4 ,?is piece1 ?\gh mu* resembl+ ! =ego+1 ,no4 #effe1 is f> bel[ x z an art-"w1 &1 by its /yle1 betrays itself z ! production ( ano!r p]iod4 ,)9 a wrea?1 ! ,annunciation is figur$1 aft] ! usual mann]1 b )\t gracefulness1 9 ! middle ( ! clo?2 at "o corn] ,w9t] is %[n1 by m5 9 a y>d *opp+ up & /ack+ wood2 !n1 by ! inside ( a room :]e a woman is w>m+ h]self be=e "o ( ^? l>ge bl9d /oves /ill f\nd 9 ,g]many1 & a be>d$ man1 seat$ 9 a l>ge *air1 do+ ! same at a brazi] ne> 8 feet1 :ile outside ! h\se a c\ple are rid+ on a sl$ge drawn by a gaily cap>ison$ horse4 ,at ! corn] opposite we h ,spr+--a f>m-h\se1 ) its beehives1 & a dame com+ out ) a jug ( milk to a woman :o is *urn+1 ne> :om is a h$g] at 8 "w1 & o!r m5 prun+1 graft+1 & s[+4 ,= ,summ]1 two g5tlem5 are sn>+ birds ) a net2 a woman & a man1 ea* ) a sickle 9 h&1 are 9 a cornfield2 two p are ba?+ 9 a duck-pond be=e a f>m-h\se1 on ! ro( ( :i* is a ne/ ) two /orks sitt+1 "o ( :i* has caught a snake2 & 9 a mead[ h>d by a man is m[+ & a woman mak+ hay4 ,= ,autumn1 we see a v9ey>d :]e "o man is ga!r+ grapes & ano!r c>ry+ !m 9 a long basket on 8 %\ld]s2 & ne>1 a man ) a nimb1 or glory1 ab\t 8 head1 & ly+ on ! gr\nd ) "o leg out/ret*$1 :i* a dog is lick+ above ! ?igh--p]haps ! %eph]d ,/4 ,rock1 &1 :ile a g5tleman is walk+ pa/ beh9d him1 a girl1 ) a basket ( fruit ^u h] head1 is com+ t[>ds ! spot4 ,betwe5 ! seasons1 & )9 circul> g>l&s1 are subjects ak9 to ^! p>ts ( ! ye>2 9 a boat1 ^u ! wat]1 a "y c\ple are beg9n+ ! voyage ( life toge!r2 a lady on a grey horse is1 ) hawk on h&1 disport+ h]self 9 ! fl[]y fields2 a "y lady is c>ess+ a lamb ) "o h& & c>ries a basket ( "y birds 9 ! o!r2 la/ ( all1 ano!r lady is kneel+ at h] pray]s1 ) a book op5 be=e h] on a table ov]-spread ) a nicely work$ clo?4 ,a deep gold fr+e runs all r\nd ! f\r sides ( ?is table-cov]4 #efgj-efgf4 ,sev5 ,*air-seat ,cov]s2 gr\nd1 yell[ sat92 patt]n1 birds1 fl[]s1 & a mask ( an animal1 all embroid]$ 9 v>i\s-col\r$ flos-silk4 ,fr5*1 late #ag? c5tury4 #b feet #f in*es by #b feet4 ,! sat9 is ri*1 & all ! embroid]ies done 9 a bold effective mann]2 9 "s ( ^! pieces ! beak ( ea* gre5 p>rot holds a /rawb]ry or arbutus-fruit2 & ! lily & fleur-de-lis "h & !re betray a ,fr5* feel+4 ,x %\ld be notic$1 too1 t mu* botanical k is %[n 9 ! figuration ( ! fl[]s1 :i* are m pleas+ & effective f be+ ?us done correctly4 #efgg4 ,two ,pieces ( ,rais$ ,silk ,brocade2 gr\nd1 yell[2 patt]n1 ! arti*oke amid /rap-"w ornam5tation1 all ( a l>ge bold "*1 9 rais$ crimson4 ,italian1 #af? c5tury4 #aj feet #a in* by #d feet #b in*es4 ,a ri* /uff1 & made up = h\sehold decoration1 p]haps = ! ?rone-room ( "s palace4 #efgh4 ,cradle-cov]let1 gre5 silk1 brocad$ 9 gold & silv]2 patt]n1 imitation ( ,ori5tal design 9 gold & silv] fl[]s1 aft] a l>ge =m1 l9$ 9 r$4 ,fr5*1 #ah? c5tury4 #c feet #f in*es squ>e4 ,a specim5 ( a ri* & tell+1 ?\gh n arti/ic1 /uff4 #egbc4 ,piece ( ,rais$ ,velvet2 gre51 on a light amb]-col\r$ gr\nd4 ,g5oese1 late #af? c5tury4 #g feet #aj in*es by #a foot #h in*es4 ,! patt]n1 ri* 9 its texture & pleas+ 9 its col\rs1 consi/s ( l>ge /alks ( fl[]s spr++ out ( royal op5 cr[ns1 all 9 a f9e pile ( gre5 velvet1 &1 no d\bt1 0 meant = palatial furniture4 #egbh4 ,a ,missal-,cu%ion2 gr\nd1 :ite sat92 patt]n1 fl[]s & fruit embroid]$ 9 col\r$ silks1 amid an ornam5tation ( net-"w1 p>tly 9 gold2 x has f\r tassels ( gre5 silk & gold ?read4 ,fr5*1 #ag? c5tury4 #a foot #e in*es by #aj in*es4 ,"o ( ^? cu%ions once s g5]ally us$ = support+ ! ,missal at ! alt>4 ,x is figur$ only on ! upp] side1 & und]nea? is l9$ ) a silk diap]$ 9 a pleas+ patt]n1 9 amb]-col\r4 ,its tassels are r l>ge & made ( sev]al col\r$ silk ?reads & gold4 #eghh4 ,a figure ( ,/4 ,m>k1 seat$2 embroid]$1 9 "p by ! h&1 9 "p wov54 ,flor5t9e1 e>ly #af? c5tury4 #a foot #c in*es by #h in*es4 ,b5ea? a circul>-head$ ni*e1 ) all its accessories 9 ! /yle ( ! revival ( classic ar*itecture1 sits ,/4 ,m>k1 kn[n z su* by ! lions at 8 side4 ,)9 8 "r arm ! ,evangeli/ holds a l>ge cross2 & on 8 lap lies an op5 book1 bo? pages ( :i* are writt5 ) ! words3--8,gloria 9 excelsis ,deo1 et 9 ta40 ,mu* ( ! ar*itecture1 z well z ( ! drap]y ( ?is p]sonage1 is loom-wr\ght1 assi/$ 9 places by ne$le-embroid]y4 ,! head1 ! h&s1 ! feet1 are all done by ! ne$le2 b ! head1 neck1 & be>d are work$ ^u v f9e l95 by !mselves1 & aft]w>ds appli$1 & 9 su* a mann] t ! long :ite be>d ov]laps ! tunic4 ,8 *air1 in/ead ( legs1 is upheld ^u ! backs ( two lions ly+ on ! gr\nd4 ,! head is done ) all ! f95ess & delicacy ( a m9iature on ivory1 & ! way 9 :i* ! massive folds ( 8 full wide g>m5ts are ?r[n ov] 8 knees is notewor?y & maje/ic4 #eijj4 ,silk ,damask ,orphrey ,web2 gr\nd1 crimson2 patt]n1 ! ,resurrection4 ,v5etian1 #af? c5tury4 #a foot #d in*es by #h in*es4 ,"o ( ^? num]\s examples ( wov5 orphrey-"w = ve/m5ts su* z copes & *asubles4 ,our ,"l is figur$ z upris+ f ! grave1 tread+ ^u cl\ds1 giv+1 ) ,8 "r h&1 a bless+ to ! _w1 & hold+ ! triumphal bann] 9 ! left4 ,glory /reams f ,8 p]son1 & a wrea? ( ,*]ubim surr\nds ,him2 :ile1 f ! top "p ( ?is piece1 we "k t two ,roman soldi]s 7 sitt+ on ! gr\nd by ! side ( ! sepul*re1 :i* !y 7 *>g$ to gu>d4 #eieh4 ,box = keep+ ! l95 corporals us$ at mass1 9 ! ve/ry4 ,x is cov]$ ) f9e l951 ( a creamy br[n t9t1 embroid]$ ) crimson silk & gold4 ,inside x is l9$1 9 "p gre51 on ! lid crimson1 :]e a v rude pr9t ( ! ,crucifixion1 daub$ ) col\r1 has be5 let 94 ,g]man1 #ag? c5tury4 #h in*es by #g in*es1 #a in*es deep4 ,su* boxes seem to h be5 mu* us$1 at "o "t1 ?r\gh\t ,g]many1 = keep+1 aft] s]vice1 ! bless$ pieces ( squ>e f9e l95 call$ corporals1 & ^u :i*1 at mass1 ! ho/ & *alice are plac$4 ,be=e be+ employ$ all ! ye> r\nd z ! daily repository = lay+ up ! corporals aft] ! morn+'s masses1 ?is sacr$ appliance1 ov]laid ) su* ri* embroid]y1 & fitly ornam5t$ ) ! illum9ation ( ! ,crucifixion inside its lid1 w\ld seem to h be5 orig9ally made & especially set aside = an use assign$ x by ^? anci5t rubrics1 :i* we h notic$ 9 our ,introduction1 #e4 ,z su*1 x is1 l ,no4 #hcbg fur!r on1 a great liturgical r>ity1 n[ seldom to be f\nd any:]e1 & m]its a place among o!r su* curi\s objects :i* give a value to ?is collection4 ,at ! mass on ,maundy ,?ursday1 besides ! ho/ receiv$ by ! (ficiat+ prie/1 ano!r ho/ is & always has be5 consecrat$ by him = ! morr['s 7,good ,friday's7 celebration2 & because no consecration ( ! ,holy ,eu*>i/1 ei!r 9 ! ,lat9 or 9 ! ,greek "p ( ! ,*ur*1 ev] did nor does take place on ,good ,friday1 ! s]vice on t day is by ! ,we/ call$ ! 8,mass ( ! ,pre-sanctifi$10 by ! ,ea/1 8 40 ,fold$ up 9 a corporal 7a squ>e piece ( f9e l9571 ! additional ho/ consecrat$ on ,maunday ,?ursday 0 put into ?is receptacle or 8capsula corporalium0 ( ! old rubrics1 & aft]w>ds c>ri$ 9 solemn procession to its tempor>y re/+-place1 kn[n 9 ,engl& z ! sepul*re1 & !re1 amid _m lights1 fl[]s1 & co/ly hang+s ( silk & palls ( gold & silv] tissue1 0 wat*$ by ! p ! re/ ( t aft]noon1 & all ! foll[+ night1 till ! morn+ ( ! next day1 :51 ) ano!r solemn procession1 x 0 borne back to ! high alt> = ! ,good ,friday's celebration4 #fiih4 ,piece ( ,gre5 ,sat92 patt]n1 an arabesque /5cil$ 9 light yell[1 & f9i%$ by t\*es done by h&4 ,italian1 v late #ah? c5tury4 #c feet #a in*es by #a foot #f in*es4 7,pres5t$ by ,mr4 ,j4 ,webb74 ,?is piece may h be5 "p ( a frieze1 r\nd ! head ( a b$2 & h _h a good effect at t height1 ?\gh1 9 a mann]1 an arti/ic *eat1 pret5d+ to be ei!r wr\ght 9 ! loom or done by ! ne$le4 ,! design1 9 its imitative classicism1 is bold & free1 & ! t\*es ( ! p5cil effective4 ,to ?is day /5cil ornam5tation ^u h\se-walls is v mu* employ$ 9 ,italy1 :]e pap]+ = rooms is seldom us$ ev5 z yet1 & n long ago 0 9 _m places almo/ unkn[n4 #gjjd4 ,piece ( ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 crimson2 patt]n1 :eat-e>s1 fl[]s1 & conv5tional foliage 9 gold1 %ad$ :ite4 ,italian1 late #af? c5tury4 #aa in*es by #aj in*es4 ,illu/ration3 #gjjd4 ,,silk ,,damask1 ,italian1 #af? c5tury4 ,v9c5t ,brooks ,day ,son1 ,li?4 ,a pleas+ design1 b ! gold is v scant4 #gjje4 ,wooll5 & ,?read ,/uff2 gr\nd1 :ite2 patt]n1 sprigs ( arti*okes & pomegranates4 ,spani%1 #af? c5tury4 #aa in*es by #g in*es4 ,! w>p is :ite l95 ?read1 r f9e2 & ! weft ( ?ick blue wool2 &1 altoge!r1 x is a pleas+ production1 & ! design nicely manag$4 #gjjf4 ,sat9 ,brocade2 gr\nd1 bright gre5 sat92 patt]n1 sprigs ( gold fl[]s4 ,g5oese1 late #af? c5tury4 #g in*es by #f in*es4 ,! fl[]s ^u ?is ri* & %[y /uff are ! lily1 ! pomegranate1 & ! arti*oke 9 sprigs1 ea* aft] a conv5tional =m2 & ! gold 9 ! ?read is ( ! be/1 z x %[s z bright n[ z almo/ on ! fir/ day ( its be+ wov5 9 ! sat91 :i* s seldom happ5s4 #gjjg4 ,silk ,diap]2 gr\nd1 creamy :ite2 patt]n1 small bun*es ( leaves1 fl[]s1 & fruit1 9 :ite1 gre51 & br[n silk4 ,spani%1 #af? c5tury4 #d in*es by #c in*es4 ,?\gh ! w>p is wooll51 ! silk 9 ! weft is ri* & ! patt]n aft] a pretty design1 :]e ! pomegranate comes 9 (t54 #gjjh4 ,piece ( ,silk ,damask ( ! v lighte/ olive-gre52 patt]n1 a diap] ( l>ge sprigs ( fl[]s4 ,italian1 late #af? c5tury4 #a foot #b in*es by #i in*es4 ,pleas+ 9 its quiet tone1 & good design4 #gjji4 ,damask$ ,silk2 gr\nd1 light r$1 ) l9es ( gold2 patt]n1 leaves & fl[]s 9 deep] r$4 ,sicilian1 late #ad? c5tury4 #aj in*es by #f in*es4 ,v l sev]al o!r specim5s 9 ?is collection f ! looms ( ,sicily1 ,pal]mo especially1 9 ! patt]n ( its diap]+1 usually 9 gre5 ^u a tawny gr\nd4 #gjaj4 ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 crimson2 patt]n1 bun*es ( fl[]s ( ! p9k & lily k9ds1 m+l$ ) slips ( ! pomegranate4 ,spani%1 #ae? c5tury4 #ab in*es by #aj in*es4 ,! col\r has mu* fad$2 b ! design ( ! patt]n1 :i* is a cr[d$ "o1 is v pretty2 & ! /uff seems to h be5 = p]sonal we>4 #gjaa4 ,sat9 ,damask2 gr\nd1 gre52 patt]n1 an acorn & an arti*oke unit$ ^u "o small sprig1 9 yell[ silk4 ,g5oese1 #af? c5tury4 #h in*es by #c in*es4 ,?\gh small1 ?is is a pretty design2 &1 p]haps1 ! great family ( ,della ,rov]e belong+ to ! ,g5oese republic may h sugge/$ ! acorn1 8rov]e0 be+ ! ,italian ^w = "o ( ! k9ds ( oak4 #gjab4 ,sat9 ,damask2 ! diap]+ is a sprig fa%ion$ l ! arti*oke1 &1 9 all likelihood1 0 outl9$ 9 pale p9k4 ,italian1 late #af? c5tury4 #a foot #d in*es by #i in*es4 ,a texture = p]sonal attire :i* mu/ h look$ well4 #gjac4 ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 crimson2 patt]n1 a l>ge arti*oke fl[] be>+1 9 ! middle1 a fleur-de-lis4 ,g5oese1 late #af? c5tury4 ,! design 9 ! patt]n is r s+ul>2 & may h be5 meant = "s noble1 if n royal ,fr5* family1 connect$ ) a h\se ( ! same pret5sions 9 ,spa94 #gjad4 ,silk ,brocade2 gr\nd1 dull purple silk2 patt]n1 fl[]s 9 gold1 p>tially reliev$ 9 :ite silk4 ,spani%1 late #af? c5tury4 #aj in*es by #f in*es4 ,! fl[]s are mo/ly aft] a conv5tional =m1 ?\gh traces ( ! pomegranate may be se52 ! gold ?read is ?9 & scantily employ$1 & always along ) broad yell[ silk4 ,) some:at poor mat]ials1 a /uff r effective 9 design is br\ght out4 #gjae4 ,silk ,web1 on l95 w>p2 gr\nd1 deep crimson2 patt]n1 a quatrefoil ) fl[]s at ! tips ( ! b>bs or angles at ! corn]s1 9 gold ?read1 & fill$ 9 ) a f\r-petal$ fl[] 9 gold ^u a gre5 gr\nd4 ,g]man1 #ae? c5tury4 #ad in*es by #d in*es4 ,int5d$ z orphreys ( a n>r[ =m2 b made ( poor mat]ials1 = ! gold is s scant t x has almo/ entirely disappe>$4 #gjaf4 ,end ( a ,maniple2 patt]n1 loz5ges1 gre5 *>g$ ) a yell[ cross1 & r$ *>g$ ) a :ite cross ( web2 ! end1 l95 embroid]$ ) a sa9t hold+ a scroll1 & fr+$ ) long /rips ( flos-silk1 gre5 blue :ite & crimson4 ,g]man1 e>ly #ae? c5tury4 #ae in*es by #c in*es4 ,z ?is piece is put ! wrong side out 9 ! frame1 ! figure ( ! sa9t _c be id5tifi$1 nor ! ^w on ! scroll read4 #gjag4 ,l95 ,web2 gr\nd1 crimson & gre52 patt]n1 on ! crimson squ>e1 a device 9 :ite2 on ! gre51 two n>r[ b&s *equ]$ crimson1 :ite1 & gre51 ) an inscription 7n[ illegible7 betwe5 !m4 ,g]man1 #ae? c5tury4 #af in*es by #b in*es4 ,poor 9 e respect1 & ! small b& ( gold is almo/ black4 #gjah4 ,orphrey ,web2 gr\nd1 gold2 patt]n1 a fl[]-be>+ tree 9 gre51 r$1 & :ite2 & ! sacr$ ,"n 9 blue silk4 ,g]man1 #ae? c5tury4 #ac in*es by #c in*es4 ,! same /uff occurs at o!r numb]s 9 ?is collection4 #gjai4 ,orphrey ,b&2 gr\nd1 gold ?read2 patt]n1 fl[]s 9 v>i\s-col\r$ silks4 ,flemi%1 #af? c5tury4 #ai in*es by #b in*es4 ,! :ole ( ?is pretty piece is done ) ! ne$le1 ^u co>se canvas1 &1 no d\bt1 ornam5t$ ei!r a *asuble1 dalmatic1 or "s liturgical ve/m5t4 #gjbj4 ,crimson & ,gold ,damask2 gr\nd1 crimson2 patt]n1 a diap] ( animals 9 gold4 ,italian1 #ae? c5tury4 #ad in*es by #d in*es4 ,exactly l ano!r piece 9 ?is collection2 a w+$ gap+ s]p5t1 ) a royal cr[n j above b n ^u its head1 occupies ! l[e/ "p ( ! design2 ov] x is ! h]aldic nebule or cl\ds d>t+ =? rays all ab\t !m1 & above all1 a h>t1 coll>$1 & ) head reg>dant lies lodg$ )9 a palisade or pal$ p>k4 #gjba4 ,n>r[ ,orphrey ( ,web2 gr\nd1 r$ & gold diap]$2 patt]n1 armorial %ields ) words betwe5 !m4 ,g]man1 #ae? c5tury4 #a foot #aj in*es by #b in*es4 ,"o ( ! %ields is azure1 two arr[s arg5t 9 saltire2 ! o!r %ield is arg5t1 ?ree e/oils1 two & "o1 azure2 & on a *ief or1 two animals 7indisc]nible7 sable3 ! words betwe5 ! %ields are s worn away z n to be readable4 #gjbb4 ,l951 block-pr9t$2 gr\nd1 :ite2 patt]n1 two eagles or hawks cre/$1 amid floriations ( ! arti*oke =m1 & a bord] ( rov+ foliage2 all 9 deep dull purple4 ,flemi%1 late #ad? c5tury4 #a foot #h in*es by #f in*es4 ,! design is good1 & evid5tly sugge/$ by ! patt]ns on silks f ! s\? ( ,europe4 ,fur!r on1 we h ano!r piece1 ,no4 #hcjc4 #gjbc4 ,orphrey ( ,web2 gr\nd1 r$ & gold1 figur$ ) a bi%op-sa9t4 ,g]man1 #ae? c5tury4 #e in*es by #d in*es4 ,! spaces = ! head & h&s are left uncov]$ by ! loom1 s t !y may be1 z !y are "h1 fill$ 9 by ! ne$le4 ,9 "o h& ! bi%op1 :o we>s a r$ mitre--an anomaly--& a cope ) a quatrefoil morse to x1 holds a *ur*1 9 ! o!r a pa/oral /aff4 #gjbd4 ,embroid]y1 9 col\r$ silks ^u f9e l95 damask4 ,flemi%1 #af? c5tury4 #aj in*es by #b in*es4 ,! f9e l95 ^u :i* ! embroid]y is done1 is diap]$ ) a loz5ge patt]n3 on "o side ( a l>ge fl[]-be>+ tree are ! words3--8,jhesu ,xpi10 & ! o!r1 8,o crux ,ave10 on ea* side ( ! tree is a %ield unemblazon$ b surr\nd$ by a g>l& ( fl[]s4 ,mo/ likely ?is piece s]v$ to cov] ! top ( ! devotional table 9 a lady's b$-room4 #gjbe4 ,embroid]y1 9 col\r$ silks ^u :ite l952 patt]n1 symbols ( ! ,passion1 fl[]s1 & birds1 ) sa9ts' names4 ,g]man1 #ag? c5tury4 #bj in*es by #f in*es4 ,)9 a gre5 circle1 ov]%ad[$ on f\r sides by /ems be>+ fl[]s1 /&s a l[ column ) ropes ab\t x & a sc\rge at "o side1 & divid$ by x is ! ^w ,m>t9us1 9 r$ silk2 amid ! fl[]-be>+ wide-spread bran*es ( a tree are ! names ,ursula1 ,augu/9us2 )9 ano!r circle l ! fir/ we see ! cross ) ! sponge at ! end ( a re$1 & ! lance1 hav+ ! "n ( ,b>b>a 9 blue & crimson2 &1 la/ ( all1 ano!r tree ) ! names ,laur5tius--,kat]9a4 ,x is edg$ ) a bord] ( roses & daisies1 & has a p>ti-col\r$ silk fr+e4 ,no d\bt ?is piece s]v$ z ! ornam5t ( a lady's pray+-desk 9 h] private room1 & bore ! names ( ^? = :om %e wi%$ m especially to pray4 #gjbf4 ,orphrey ( ,web2 gr\nd1 gold2 patt]n1 two /ems int]tw9$ & be>+ leaves & fl[]s1 9 crimson silk4 ,g]man1 #ae? c5tury4 #i in*es by #b in*es4 #gjbg4 ,l951 block-pr9t$2 gr\nd1 :ite2 patt]n1 cre/$ birds & foliage1 j l ano!r piece1 ,no4 #hfae1 9 ?is collection4 ,flemi%1 late #ad? c5tury4 #ad in*es by #b in*es4 #gjbh4 ,small ,piece ( ,orphrey2 gr\nd1 yell[ silk /it*]y ^u canvas1 embroid]$1 )9 b>b$ quatrefoils 9 cords ( gold1 & ^u a gold diap]$ gr\nd1 ) ! bu/s ( two ,evangeli/s 9 col\r$ silks1 & ! :ole bord]$ by an edg+ ( gold /alks1 ) trefoils4 ,italian1 ! middle ( ! #ae? c5tury4 #aj in*es by #e in*es4 ,! quatrefoils are l9k$ toge!r by a k9d ( fretty knot1 z well z ! l5g?s 9 ! two n>r[ edg+s on ! bord] by a less intricate "o1 all ( :i* looks v l ,flor5t9e "w4 ,mo/ likely ?is orphrey s]v$ = ! side ( a cope4 #gjbi4 ,piece ( a ,liturgical ,clo?1 embroid]$ 9 :ite ?read1 v slightly %ad$ "h & !re 9 crimson silk1 ^u l951 ) a quatrefoil at top enclos+ ! ,annunciation & f\r angels1 "o at ea* corn] sw++ a ?urible1 & l[] d[n1 ) ,/4 ,pet] & ,/4 ,paul1 ,/4 ,james ! ,less & ,/4 ,mat?ias1 ,/4 ,james ! ,great] & ,/4 ,&rew2 amid ! leaf-be>+ b\ghs1 rov+ all ov] ! clo?1 may be se5 an occasional lion's head caboss$ & langu$ gules4 ,g]man1 late #ad? c5tury4 #b feet #i in*es by #a foot #aj in*es4 ,?is is b a small piece ( "o ( ^? long cov]+s or veils = ! lect]n1 ( :i* su* f9e examples are 9 ?is collection4 ,! lion's head caboss$ w\ld seem to be an armorial ensign ( ! family to :i* ! lady :o work$ ! clo? belong$1 al?\gh su* an ornam5t does sometimes appe>1 )\t any h]aldic mean+1 ^u monum5ts ( ! p]iod4 ,9 ! execution ( its /it*]y ! specim5 be=e u is f> bel[ o!rs ( ! same class4 #gjcj4 ,piece ( a ,/ole or ,maniple2 gr\nd1 crimson silk 7mu* fad$72 & embroid]$ ) gre5 /ems tw9+ up & be>+ small r\nd fl[]s 9 gold1 & l>ge oak leaves 9 :ite4 ,italian1 #af? c5tury4 #ac in*es by #c in*es4 ,! leaves1 n[ s :ite1 7 orig9ally ( gold1 b ( s poor a quality t ! metal is almo/ worn (f ! ?reads4 #gjca4 ,silk ,ribbon2 gr\nd1 gre5 & gold2 patt]n1 squ>es & loz5ges on "o b>1 spiral n>r[ b&s on ano!r1 ! b>s alt]nat+4 ,italian1 e>ly #ag? c5tury4 #h in*es by #h in*es4 ,bo? silk & gold are good 9 ?is simple patt]n4 #gjcb4 ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 crimson2 patt]n1 a squ>e enclos+ a floriation2 bo? 9 bright yell[4 ,spani%1 #ae? c5tury4 #h in*es by #d in*es4 ,design$ on ,moori% pr9ciples1 & co>se 9 its workman%ip4 #gjcc4 ,silk ,texture2 gr\nd1 yell[2 patt]n1 net-"w1 ) fl[]s & mullets1 all 9 d>k blue4 ,sicilian1 late #ad? c5tury4 #aj in*es by #c in*es4 ,( a simple design & poor 9 texture1 & probably meant z ! l9+ = a ri*] k9d ( /uff4 #gjcd4 ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 crimson silk2 patt]n1 9 gold ?read1 two v l>ge lions1 & two pairs1 "o ( v small birds1 ! o!r ( equally small dragons1 & an ornam5t l a h& look+-glass4 ,ori5tal1 #ad? c5tury4 #b feet #d in*es by #b feet4 ,! l>ge lions1 :i* /rongly resemble1 9 _! =e-legs1 ! ,n9eveh ones 9 ! ,briti% ,museum1 are plac$ addors$ reg>dant & look+ ^u two v small birds1 :ile betwe5 _! heads /&s :at seems l a look+-glass1 ^u a /em or h&le2 at ! feet ( ^! huge bea/s are two little long-tail$1 op5-m\!d1 two-legg$ dragons4 ,! :ole ( ?is design n[ appe>s to be 9 co>se yell[ ?read1 :i* once 0 cov]$ ) gold1 b s sp>+ly & ) su* poor metal t n a speck ( x c n[ be detect$ any:]e 9 ?is l>ge specim54 ,! probability is t ?is /uff 0 wr\ght 9 "s "p ( ,syria1 = ! ,european m>ket2 at ! lions' necks are broad coll>s be>+ two l9es or s5t5ces 9 imitat$ ,arabic *>act]s4 ,copes & *asubles = *ur* use dur+ ! ,middle ,ages 7 (t5 made ( silks l ?is4 ,dr4 ,bock has figur$ ?is v piece 9 8 8,ges*i*te d] ,liturgis*5 ,gewnd] des ,mittelalt]s10 t4 i4 pl4 iv4 #gjce4 ,silk & ,l95 ,texture2 gr\nd1 crimson2 patt]n1 />-l fl[]s4 ,spani%1 #ae? c5tury4 #e in*es by #b in*es4 ,poor 9 design z well z mat]ial4 #gjcf4 ,silk ,diap]$1 ) a man wre/l+ ) a lion repeat$2 gr\nd1 crimson1 ! diap] 9 v>i\s col\rs1 & ! wav+ bord]s 9 creamy :ite1 edg$ black1 & *>g$ ) crimson squ>es1 & fruits crimson & deep gre54 ,byzant9e1 #ab? c5tury4 #ae in*es by #ab in*es4 ,?is is "o among ! kn[n e>ly productions ( ! loom1 & !re=e v valuable4 ,! lion & man seem to be meant = ,samson's victory ov] t animal1 ?\gh1 = ! sake ( a patt]n1 ! same two figures are repeat$ 9 su* a way t !y are 9 pairs & confront$4 ,samson's dress is aft] ! classic =m1 & he we>s s&als1 :ile a long n>r[ gre5 sc>f1 fr+$ yell[1 flutt]s f (f 8 %\ld] beh9d him2 & ! tawny lion's mane is %[n to fall 9 :ite & black locks1 b 9 su* a way t1 at fir/ sight1 ! black %ad+ might be mi/ak5 = ! lett]s ( "s ^w4 ,?is /uff is figur$ by ,dr4 ,bock 9 8 8,ges*i*te d] ,liturgis*5 ,gewnd] des ,mittelalt]s10 t4 i4 pl4 ii4 #gjcg4 ,silk & ,l95 ,damask2 gr\nd1 pale dull yell[-col\r$ l952 patt]n1 circles enclos+ tawny foliation1 9 ! mid/ ( :i* is a purple c9quefoil1 & ! sp&rils outside fill$ 9 ) o!r foliations 9 ! same tawny tone4 ,byzant9e1 #ad? c5tury4 #ac in*es by #ac in*es4 ,( poor /uff1 b ( a r pleas+ design4 #gjch4 ,silk ,texture2 gr\nd1 crimson2 patt]n1 geometrical figures1 mo/ly 9 bright yell[1 fill$ 9 ) small] l figures 9 blue1 gre51 & :ite4 ,moori%1 #ae? c5tury4 #a foot #aj in*es by #a foot #b in*es4 ,mo/ likely ?is g>i% & r />+ silk 0 wov5 ei!r at ,tangi] or ,tetuan1 & f\nd its way to ,europe ?r\gh "s ( ! ports on ! s\!rn coa/ ( ,spa94 #gjci4 ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 purple2 patt]n1 loz5ges1 ) s-call$ love-knots1 "o on ea* side1 enclos+ a fl[] & a loz5ge *equ]$ ) ,greek crosses alt]nately1 all 9 yell[4 ,byzant9e1 #ad? c5tury4 #h in*es by #d in*es4 ,illu/ration3 #gjci ,,silk ,,fabric1 ,byzant9e---- #ad? c5tury4 ,v9c5t ,brooks ,day ,son1 ,li?4 ,?\gh poor 9 mat]ial ?is silk is s f> int]e/+ z x gives a l9k 9 t long *a9 ( traditional feel+ = %[+ ! cross ab\t /uffs1 meant1 z mo/ likely ?is 01 = ritual uses1 & kn[n among bo? ! ,lat9s & ! ,greeks z 8/aurac9a40 ,to ?is day ! same cu/om is foll[$ 9 ! ,ea/ ( hav+ ! cross m>k$ ^u ! textiles employ$ 9 liturgical g>m5ts4 #gjdj4 ,:ite ,l951 diap]$ ) a small loz5ge patt]n1 & a bord] ( "o broad & two n>r[ b&s 9 black ?read4 ,flemi%1 #ae? c5tury4 #ab in*es by #aa in*es4 ,a good example ( ,flemi% nap]y ) ! diap] well %[n4 #gjda4 ,silk & ,l95 ,texture2 gr\nd1 blue2 patt]n1 a l>ge petal$ fl[] )9 a p>k f5c+1 ^u ! pal+s ( :i* are p]*$ two birds1 & ano!r some:at l fl[] enclos$ 9 ! same way ) two quadrup$s rampant on ! pal+s4 ,italian1 #ae? c5tury4 #af in*es by #ab in*es4 ,! birds seem to be meant = doves2 & ! animals = dogs4 ,9 design1 b n 9 ri*ness ( mat]ial1 ?is specim5 is mu* l ,no4 #gjbj4 #gjdb4 ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 deep blue2 patt]n1 floriat$ loz5ges1 enclos+ *equ]$ loz5ges 9 deep yell[4 ,s\? ( ,spa91 #ad? c5tury4 #ab in*es by #g in*es4 ,a tissue %[+ a ,s>ac5ic feel+4 #gjdc4 ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 tawny2 patt]n1 a cone-%ap$ floriation amid foliage & fl[]s4 ,sicilian1 #ae? c5tury4 #ac in*es by #ac in*es4 ,illu/ration3 #gjdc4 ,,silk ,,damask1 ,sicilian--#ae? c5tury4 ,v9c5t ,brooks ,day ,son1 ,li?4 ,bo? ar\nd ! cone1 z well z a?w>t ! fl[]s1 !re are attempts at ,arabic s5t5ces1 b 9 lett]s s badly done z easily to %[ ! attempt$ *eat4 #gjdd4 ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 deep blue2 patt]n1 six-sid$ panels fill$ 9 ) conv5tional floriations1 all 9 orange yell[4 ,spani% moresque1 #ae? c5tury4 #g in*es by #c in*es4 ,if n design$ & wr\ght by ,moori% h&s1 its ,spani% weav] work$ aft] ,s>ac5ic feel+s 9 ! =ms ( its ornam5tation4 #gjde4 ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 amb]1 diap]$ 9 small loz5ges2 patt]n1 p>rots 9 pairs outl9$ 9 blue & crimson1 bo? :i* col\rs are almo/ fad$1 & hav+ a bord] consi/+ ( n>r[ p>allel l9es1 "s d>k blue ) :ite scrolls1 o!rs ( gold ?read1 ) deep blue scrolls4 ,ori5tal1 late #ab? c5tury4 #i in*es by #e in*es4 #gjde;,a4 ,silk ,bord]1 torn (f f ! =ego+ numb]4 ,bo? ! "o & ! o!r are valuable pro(s ( ! c>e tak5 by ! ,greek weav]s1 9 ! ,greek isl&s1 ,greece prop]1 & 9 ,syria1 to give an elaborate design to ! gr\nds ( _! silks4 #gjdf4 ,silk ,brocade2 gr\nd1 deep crimson2 patt]n1 a diap]+1 9 ! same col\r1 ( he>t-%ap$ %ields *>g$ ) a fanciful floriation1 amid wavy scrolls be>+ fl[]s ^u !m4 ,s\? ( ,spa91 #ad? c5tury4 #f in*es by #d in*es4 ,! f9e ri* tone ( col\r1 s fix$ t x is yet unfad$1 is rem>kable4 #gjdg4 ,silk ,crape1 deep crimson1 ?ickly diap]$ ) leaves ^u ! items4 ,syrian4 #h in*es by #e in*es4 ,n only ! mell[ tone1 b ! pretty ?\gh small patt]n is v pleas+4 #gjdh4 ,silk & ,cotton ,texture2 gr\nd1 :ite cotton2 patt]n1 loz5ges fill$ up ) a brok5 fret ( ,t-%ap$ l9es & dots1 & a cross 9 ! middle2 & ) simil> m>k+s 9 ! int]v5+ spaces4 ,byzant9e1 #ad? c5tury4 #ad in*es by #e in*es4 ,?\gh ( su* poor mat]ials ?is specim5 is r int]e/+ f its design :]e ! n>r[-l9$ loz5ges ) _! ,t's & %ort int]v5+ l9es are all 9 gre5 silk1 n[ mu* fad$2 & ! cross1 kn[n z ( ! ,greek =m1 ) ^? little dots are 9 crimson silk4 ,mo/ likely x 0 wov5 9 "o ( ! isl&s ( ! ,ar*ipelago1 & = liturgical use1 su* z ! broad flat girdle /ill employ$ 9 ! ,ori5tal rituals4 #gjdi4 ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 fawn-col\r2 design1 p>rots & giraffes 9 pairs amid floriat$ ornam5tation1 all1 except+ ! portions done 9 gold1 ( ! same t9t ) ! gr\nd4 ,sicilian1 #ac? c5tury4 #ae in*es by #h in*es4 ,l ! specim5 "u ,no4 #abgd1 :]e x is fully describ$4 #gjej4 ,silk ,damask2 all creamy :ite2 patt]n1 net-"w1 ! oval me%es ( :i* %[ floriations 9 ?9 l9es ^u a sat9y gr\nd4 ,syrian1 #ac? c5tury4 #aa in*es by #f in*es4 ,?is f9e ri* textile is1 9 all probability1 ! production ( a ,s>ac5ic loom1 & f ! ea/]n "p ( ! ,m$it]ranean4 #gjea4 ,silk ,tissue2 gr\nd1 amb]2 patt]n1 a reticulation1 ea* six-sid$ me% fill$ 9 ) alt]nate fl[]s & leaves1 ) "h & !re a circle enclos+ a pair ( p>rots1 addors$1 reg>dant2 & betwe5 !m a lace sort ( column hav+1 at top1 a cresc5t all 9 d>k blue4 ,ori5tal1 late #ab? c5tury4 #ab in*es by #f in*es4 ,a good specim51 :5 fre% & new1 ( ! ea/]n loom4 #gjeb4 ,:ite ,silk ,damask1 diap]$ ) a *equ] *>g$ ) loz5ges1 be>+ ! ,greek gammadion1 & spr9kl$ ) l>g] fl[]s4 ,ori5tal1 #ad? c5tury4 #g in*es by #e in*es4 ,! patt]n ( ?is curi\s /uff is v small2 & f ! pres5ce ( ! gammadion ^u x1 we may presume x 0 orig9ally wr\ght = ,greek liturgical use1 some:]e on ! coa/ ( ,syria4 #gjec4 ,silk ,damask2 gre52 ! patt]n1 an oval1 enclos+ an arti*oke1 & ! spaces betwe5 fill$ 9 ) foliations & pomegranates4 ,spani%1 #af? c5tury4 #bc in*es by #ab in*es4 ,beautiful 9 tone ( col\r1 & ( a pleas+ design1 well %[n by a %9+ sat9y look ( ! silk2 ?is is a specim5 ( a ri* /uff4 #gjed4 ,diap]$ ,silk2 gr\nd1 yell[2 patt]n1 a l>ge conv5tional foliation1 9 r[s1 alt]nat+ ) r[s ( armorial %ields1 all 9 blue4 ,spani%1 e>ly #ag? c5tury4 #bj in*es by #ag in*es4 ,a v effective design = h\sehold use3 ! %ield is a pale1 ! cre/ a b>r$ clos$ helmet topp$ by a demy wyv]n4 #gjee4 ,silk ,diap]2 gr\nd1 gold2 patt]n1 fl[]s & fruits 9 crimson1 slightly %ad$ 9 blue & gre5 silk4 ,spani%1 #af? c5tury4 #ab in*es by #h in*es4 ,?\gh ! gold on ! gr\nd be s sp>+ly put 91 ?is /uff has a ri* look1 & ! occurr5ce ( ! pomegranate po9ts to ,granada z ! place ( manufacture ( ?is & o!r tissues ( su* patt]ns4 #gjef4 ,silk ,tissue1 n[ deep amb]1 once bright crimson1 diap]$ ) a modification ( ! me&]1 & ov] t sprigs ( fl[]s4 ,ori5tal1 #ac? c5tury4 #h in*es by #d in*es4 ,to see ! rais$ diap]+ ( ?is piece requires a ne> inspection1 b :5 detect$1 x is f\nd to be ( a pleas+ type4 #gjeg4 ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 purple2 patt]n1 a quatrefoil1 )9 ano!r1 *>g$ ) a cross-l floriation1 ) a squ>e :ite c5tre1 surm\nt$ by two eagles ) w+s display$1 uphold+ 9 _! beaks a royal cr[n1 all 9 gre54 ,italian1 e>ly #ae? c5tury4 #ad in*es by #aa in*es4 ,?\gh ! silk be poor ! design is 9 good "*1 & ! /uff w\ld seem to h be5 wr\ght ei!r at ,flor5ce or ,lucca1 = "s pr9cely ,g]man h\se4 #gjeh4 ,piece ( ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 r$ & gold2 patt]n1 a pair ( o/ri* fea!rs1 spr++ f a conv5tional fl[]1 & droop+ ov] an arti*oke-l floriation1 ( a t9t once light gre51 & %ad$ dull :ite4 ,spani%1 #ae? c5tury4 #ad in*es by #g in*es4 ,a curi\s mixture ( silk1 wool1 l95 ?read & gold v sp>+ly employ$4 ,! o/ri* fea!r is s unusual an elem5t ( ornam5tal design1 especially 9 wov5 /uffs1 t we may deem x a k9d ( remembrance ( ! ,black ,pr9ce :o f\ght = a ,spani% k+1 ,don ,p$ro ! ,cruel1 at ! battle ( ,nav>etta1 or ,naj>ra1 if n hav+ a significance ( ! m>riage ( ,ca!r9e ( ,arragon1 fir/ ) our ,pr9ce ,ar?ur1 elde/ son ( ,h5ry ,,vii1 & aft] 8 dea?1 ) 8 y\ng] bro!r1 ,h5ry ,,viii1 ea* ( :om 0 9 8 "t ,pr9ce ( ,wales1 ^: badge became "o or m o/ri* fea!rs4 ,9 old ,engli% *ur* inv5tories drawn up t[>ds ! middle & ! end ( ! #ae? c5tury1 m5tion is (t5 f\nd ( ve/m5ts made ( a ,flemi% /uff1 call$ ,dorneck1 f ! "n 9 ,fl&]s = ! city ( ,t\rnay1 :]e x 0 made1 b spelt 9 ,engli% v>i\s ways1 z ,d>nec1 ,d>nak1 ,d>nick1 & ev5 ,d>nep4 ,su* an inf]ior k9d ( tissue wov5 ( ?9 silk mix$ ) wool & l95 ?read1 0 9 great dem&1 = e-day we> 9 poor *ur*es 9 ?is c\ntry4 ,?\gh n wr\ght at ,t\rnay1 ! pres5t specim5 af=ds a good example ( t sort ( /uff call$ ,dorneck1 :i*1 v probably1 0 introduc$ into ,fl&]s f ,spa94 ,besides ! pres5t textile1 ano!r1 figur$ 9 ! 8,mlanges d',ar*ologie10 t4 iii4 pt4 xxxiii1 furni%es an additional in/ance 9 :i* ! o/ri* fea!r is br\ght into ! design4 #gjei4 ,gre5 ,silk ,damask2 patt]n1 floriations & %ort l5g?s ( n>r[ b&s arrang$ zig-zag4 ,italian1 #ag? c5tury4 #h in*es by #f in*es4 ,an extraord9>y b n pleas+ patt]n4 #gjfj4 ,silk & ,l95 ,damask2 gr\nd1 creamy :ite2 patt]n1 9 light br[n1 once p9k1 a conv5tional arti*oke4 ,italian1 #af? c5tury4 #a foot #e in*es by #i in*es4 ,! w>p is ?read1 b /ill ! texture looks well4 #gjfa4 ,silk & ,gold ,damask2 gr\nd1 light gre5 silk2 patt]n1 l>ge v9e-leaves & />s1 ) a bord] ( griff9s & fleur-de-lis1 9 gold4 ,sicilian1 #ad? c5tury4 #aj in*es squ>e4 ,?is beautiful /uff 01 9 all likelihood1 wov5 at ! royal manufactory at ,pal]mo1 & meant z a gift to "s high p]sonage :o came f ! blood royal ( ,france4 ,! griff9s1 affront$ or combatant1 are drawn ) mu* fre$om & _s1 & ?\gh ! gold be dull1 ! patt]n /ill looks ri*4 #gjfb4 ,gold ,web1 diap]$ ) animals 9 gre5 silk4 ,fr5*1 late #ac? c5tury4 #ad in*es by #b in*es4 ,probably wr\ght 9 a small frame1 at home1 by "s "y woman1 & = p]sonal adornm5t4 ,s mu* is x worn away1 t ! gre5 be>dless lion1 ) a circle ( crimson1 c be well se5 only 9 "o in/ance4 ,a n>r[ %ort piece ( edg+ lace1 ( ! same make & "t1 b ( a simple int]lac+ /rap-patt]n1 is p9n$ to ?is specim54 #gjfc4 ,gre5 & ,fawn-col\r$ ,silk ,diap]2 patt]n1 squ>es1 gre51 fill$ 9 ) leaves fawn-col\r$1 & bea/s & birds1 gre54 ,sicilian1 late #ac? c5tury4 #h in*es by #c in*es4 ,ano!r ( ^? specim5s1 p]haps ( ! ,pal]mitan loom3 all ! animals look h]aldic1 & are lions1 griff9s1 wyv]ns1 & p>rots4 ,! /uff itself is n ( ! ri*e/4 #gjfd4 ,gold ,lace1 s worn by use t ! floriation on ! oblong diap] is oblit]at$4 ,fr5*1 #ac? c5tury4 #i in*es by #a in*es4 #gjfd;,a4 ,gold ,lace2 patt]n1 int]lac+ /rap-"w4 ,fr5*1 #ac? c5tury4 #g in*es by #a in*es4 ,equally s]viceable = p]sonal or ecclesia/ical use4 #gjfe4 ,black ,silk ,damask2 figur$ ) a t[] surr\nd$ by wat]1 ov] :i* are two bridges2 9 ! l[] c\rt are two m51 ea* ) an eagle p]*$ ^u 8 h&2 f out ! ?ird /ory ( ! t[] spr+s a tree1 be>+ arti*oke floriations4 ,italian1 #ae? c5tury4 #aa in*es by #h in*es4 ,ano!r piece ( ?is id5tical damask occurs at ,no4 #hfab1 b !re ! design is by no means s cle> z 9 ! piece be=e u4 #gjff4 ,gre5 ,silk2 patt]n1 a loz5ge reticulation1 ea* me% fill$ 9 ) f\r v small void$ loz5ges plac$ crosswise1 9 pale yell[4 ,ori5tal1 #ad? c5tury4 #e in*es by #d- in*es4 #gjfg4 ,silk & ,gold ,damask2 gr\nd1 gre5 silk2 patt]n1 conv5tional floriation1 ) a circul> =m ( ! arti*oke4 ,spani%1 e>ly #ae? c5tury4 #a foot #c in*es by #d in*es4 ,"o ( ^? samples ( t poor texture :i* came f ! ,spani% loom1 ) ! %am gold1 :i* we h be=e obs]v$ 9 o!r examples1 ( ?9 p>*m5t gilt ) a mu* debas$ gold4 #gjfh4 ,silk ,damask2 /raw-col\r2 patt]n1 loz5ge-%ap$ net-"w1 ea* me% enclos+ a fl[]4 ,spani%1 #ae? c5tury4 #ac in*es by #ab in*es4 ,s worn is ?is piece t x is ) difficulty t its simple design c be made out4 #gjfi4 ,silk ,damask2 /raw-col\r2 patt]n1 an imag9>y eagle-l bird1 enclos$ by a g>l& full ( ivy leaves4 ,sicilian1 #ad? c5tury4 #g in*es by #f in*es4 ,! gr\nd is completely fill$ 9 ) ! well-design$ & pretty diap]+2 b damp has sadly spoil$ ! specim54 #gjgj4 ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 purple2 patt]n1 h]aldic figures1 birds1 & oval floriations1 9 gold ?read4 ,ori5tal1 #ad? c5tury4 #af in*es by #i in*es4 ,on an oval1 floriat$ all r\nd1 & enclos+ two lionesses addors$ rampant reg>dant1 are two wyv]n-l eagles ) curi\s fea!r$ tails1 reg>dant2 bel[1 are two cockatoos addors$ reg>dant1 all 9 gold4 ,! oval floriation is outl9$ ) gre54 ,:5 new1 ?is /uff mu/ h _h a brave appe>ance1 & %[s a ,p]sian tradition ab\t x4 #gjga4 ,l951 embroid]$ 9 silk2 gr\nd1 f9e l952 patt]n1 a zigzag1 alt]nat+ 9 light blue & br[n4 ,g]man1 #ae? c5tury4 #ad in*es by #c in*es4 ,! zigzag may be t]m$ dancette1 & all ov] is p>t$ into loz5ges1 ea* loz5ge *>g$ ) a cross made ( mascles1 & ! spaces betwe5 ! br[n & ! blue zigzags1 fill$ 9 ) o!rs ( a light br[n col\r$ diap]+4 #gjgb4 ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 violet or deep purple2 patt]n1 angels ) ?uribles1 & emblems ( ! ,passion1 9 yell[ & :ite4 ,flor5t9e1 late #ad? c5tury4 #ah in*es by #ae in*es4 ,?is truly arti/ic & well-execut$ /uff displays a r[ ( angels 9 gird$ albs1 all fly+ "o way1 z ) ! left h& !y sw+ ?uribles1 & ano!r r[ kneel+1 ea* ) a cr[n ( ?orns 9 8 h&s1 alt]nat+1 ) a second set ( angels1 9 ano!r r[1 ea* be>+ be=e him a cross4 ,all ! angels are done 9 yell[1 b ) face & h&s :ite1 & ! :ole gr\nd is /rew$ ) />s4 ,x is likely t ?is f9e /uff 0 wov5 expressly = ! purple ve/m5ts worn 9 ,passion "t1 at ! end ( ,l5t4 #gjgc4 ,crimson ,silk & ,gold ,brocade2 gr\nd1 a diap] ( crimson2 patt]n1 an oval reticulation1 9 ! me%es ( :i* is an arti*oke fl[]1 all 9 gold4 ,g5oese1 #af? c5tury4 #af in*es by #i in*es4 ,! design ( ?is ri* /uff is well manag$1 & ! diap]+ 9 dull silk ^u a sat9 gr\nd ?r[s out ! gold brocad+ admirably2 ! me%es :i* enclose ! fl[]s are !mselves =m$ ( g>l&s4 #gjgd4 ,rais$ ,crimson ,velvet1 damask$ 9 gold2 patt]n1 ! arti*oke & small floriations 9 gold4 ,g5oese1 #af? c5tury4 #ae in*es by #aa in*es4 ,a specim5 ( :at1 9 its prime1 mu/ h be5 a f9e /uff = h\sehold decoration1 ?\gh ( su* a nature z to h freely all[$ x to be employ$ = ecclesia/ical purposes4 ,x has se5 r\gh s]vice1 s t its pile is 9 places ?read-b>e1 & its gold almo/ worn away4 #gjge4 ,rais$ ,velvet on ,gold ,gr\nd2 patt]n1 a v l>ge rose ) broad bord] 9 rais$ crimson velvet1 fill$ 9 ) a bu% ( pomegranates1 9 v ?9 l9es ( rais$ crimson velvet2 ! re/ ( ! gr\nd is diap]$ all ov] ) ! pomegranate tree 9 v ?9 outl9e4 ,g5oese1 e>ly #af? c5tury4 #b feet #i in*es by #b feet4 ,! gold ?read 0 s poor t ! preci\s metal has almo/ entirely disappe>$2 b :5 all 0 new1 ?is /uff mu/ h look$ p>ticul>ly gr&4 ,! l>ge r$ rose1 & ! pomegranate1 make x seem z if x _h be5 wr\ght1 9 ! fir/ in/ance1 = ei!r our ,h5ry ! ,sev5?1 or ,h5ry ! ,eigh?1 aft] ! ,engli% m>riage ( ,ca!r9e ( ,arragon4 #gjgf4 ,rais$ ,velvet & ,gold2 patt]n1 conv5tional fl[]s 9 gold1 ^u tawny-col\r$ velvet4 ,g5oese1 late #ae? c5tury4 #ab in*es by #h in*es4 ,! gold ( ! design is1 9 p>ts1 nicely diap]$2 & ! gold ?read itself ?91 & n[ r t>ni%$4 #gjgg4 ,rais$ ,crimson ,velvet2 patt]n1 an arti*oke amid fl[]s4 ,g5oese1 late #ae? c5tury4 #af in*es by #aa in*es4 ,! pile is ri*2 & :5 x is borne 9 m9d h[ ! ,emp]or ,*>les ,v4 hon\r$ ,&rea ,dorea1 x is n surpris+ t 8 c\ntrym5 _h a p>tiality = ! ,spani% emblem ( _! great capta9's admir]4 #gjgh4 ,rais$ ,blue ,velvet2 gr\nd1 deep blue2 patt]n1 )9 an outl9$ sev5-petal$ floriation 9 silk1 an arti*oke1 ) sprigs ( fl[]s %oot+ out ( x4 ,g5oese1 late #ae? c5tury4 #ag in*es by #aj in*es4 ,?\gh mu* worn by h>d usage1 ?is /uff is ( a pleas+ effect1 ow+ to its agreeable design1 :i* n unfrequ5tly occurs p]fect1 & consi/s ( a k9d ( circle 9 n>r[ l9es1 some:at 9 ! %ape ( a fl[]1 b hav+ at ! tips ( its prom95t fea!r+ cusps ( florets4 #gjgi4 ,figur$ ,blue ,velvet2 embroid]$ 9 gold ?read1 ) c9quefoils1 enclos+ a floriation ( ! arti*oke =m1 ) small] ones ar\nd x4 ,spani%1 #ae? c5tury4 #ae in*es by #i in*es4 ,by ! %ape ( ?is piece x mu/ h be5 cut (f f ! end ( a *asuble4 ,?\gh ! velvet is ri*1 ! embroid]y is poor1 done z x is 9 ?9 outl9e1 b /ill ( a good =m4 #gjhj4 ,orphrey ,web1 silk & gold2 gr\nd1 crimson2 patt]n1 on a gold diap]+1 conv5tional floriations & scrolls1 9 "o ( :i* is ! bu/ ( ,/4 ,pet]1 ) 8 key 9 "o h& & a book 9 ! o!r4 ,flor5t9e1 late #ae? c5tury4 #ba in*es by #h in*es4 ,l _m o!r samples1 ?is ri* web ( crimson silk & f9e gold ?read 0 wr\ght = ^? k9ds ( broad orphreys ne$$ = *asubles & copes2 & sometimes work$ up into alt>-frontals4 #gjha4 ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 yell[2 patt]n1 net-"w1 ! me%es1 :i* are loop$ to ea* o!r1 fill$ 9 ) a conv5tional floriat$ ornam5t1 all 9 gre54 ,italian1 #af? c5tury4 #af in*es by #aj in*es4 ,int5d$ = h\sehold adornm5t4 ,?is /uff mu/ h _h an agreeable effect1 ?\gh ! gre5 has some:at fad$4 #gjhb4 ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 yell[i% pale gre52 patt]n1 a diap]+ ( v small leaves & fl[]s4 ,ori5tal1 #ac? c5tury4 #f in*es by #e in*es4 ,j l ,no4 #gjef1 & ne$+ ! same ne> inspection to f9d out its small b well-manag$ delicate design4 #gjhc4 ,silk & ,l95 ,texture2 gr\nd1 yell[2 patt]n1 amid foliage1 two *eetahs1 face to face1 all blue1 b spott$ yell[4 ,syrian1 #ad? c5tury4 #g in*es by #f in*es4 ,at ! same "t t ! w>p is ( l951 ! wo( ( silk is ?92 & a bold design is almo/ wa/$ ^u poor mat]ials4 ,! specim51 h[ev]1 is s f> valuable1 z x %[s u h[1 = ages1 a ,p]sian feel+ w5t along ) ! workm5 on ! ea/]n %ores ( ! ,levant4 #gjhd4 ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 tawny2 patt]n1 birds1 fl[]s1 & he>t-%ap$ figures1 encircl$ ) imitat$ ,arabic lett]s1 all mo/ly 9 gre51 v p>tially %ad$ :ite4 ,sicilian1 #ad? c5tury4 #ai in*es by #e in*es4 ,above a he>t-%ap$ ornam5t1 bord]$ by a %am inscription 9 ,arabic1 & surr\nd$ by a wrea?1 are two birds ( ! hoopoe k9d1 & b5ea?1 two o!r birds1 l eagles2 & ?is design is plac$ amid ! oval spaces made by g>l&s ( fl[]s4 ,all ! compon5t elem5ts ( ! patt]n are 9 small1 ?\gh well-drawn figures4 #gjhe4 ,silk & ,gold ,damask2 gr\nd1 tawny2 patt]n1 fruit1 bea/s1 & birds4 ,sicilian1 #ad? c5tury4 #bb in*es by #aj in*es4 ,?is ri* /uff has an elaborate patt]n1 consi/+ ( ?ree pieces ( fruit1 l oranges or apples1 ) a small p5cil ( sun-rays d>t+ f !m above1 out ( :i* spr+s a little bun* ( trefoils1 :i* sep>ate two lions1 9 gold1 t are look+ d[n1 & ) op5 langu$ m\?s2 bel[ is ano!r & l>g] p5cil ( beams1 %9+ ^u two p]*$ eagles1 ) w+s half spread out = flight4 ,betwe5 su* gr\ps is a l>ge fl[] l an arti*oke1 ) two blue fl[]s1 l ! c5taurea1 at ! /alk itself2 above :i* is1 z x 71 ! fea!r+ ( an ar* ) a bun* ( ?ree :ite fl[]s1 = its cusp4 ,) ! exception ( ! lions & fl[]s1 ! re/ ( ! patt]n is 9 gre54 #gjhf4 ,silk & ,gold ,brocade2 gr\nd1 d>k purple2 patt]n1 all 9 gold1 floriations1 birds & bea/s4 ,ori5tal1 #ac? c5tury4 #ah in*es by #g in*es4 ,:5 new1 ?is ri* /uff mu/ h be5 v effective1 ei!r = liturgical use or p]sonal we>4 ,!re is a broad bord]1 =m$ by ! %all[ sections ( circles1 inscrib$ ) imitat$ ,arabic *>act]s4 ,out ( ! po9ts or fea!r+s made by ! junctions ( ! circul> sections spr+ =? bun*es ( :eat-e>s1 sep>at+ two coll>$ *eetahs ) heads rev]s$2 & f o!r fea!r+s1 a l>ge oval well-fill$ floriation1 ^u ! bran*es ( :i* are p]*$ two cre/$ birds1 may be hoopoes1 at :i* ! *eetahs seem to be gaz+4 ,ov] ! :eat-e>s1 drops are fall+ f a p5cil ( sunbeams above !m2 bel[ are two fl[]s 9 silk1 once crimson4 #gjhg4 ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 blue2 patt]n1 birds1 animals1 & fl[]s1 9 gold1 & diff]5t col\r$ silks4 ,ori5tal1 late #ac? c5tury4 #ag in*es by #g in*es4 ,s fragm5t>y is ?is specim51 t x is r h>d to f9d out ! :ole ( ! design1 :i* 0 seem+ly compos$ ( :ite *eetahs coll>$ r$1 9 pairs2 above :i* sit two little dogs1 9 gold1 look+ at "o ano!r2 & j ov] !m a pair ( :ite eagles1 small too1 on ! w+1 & hold+ a :ite fl[] betwe5 !m4 ,runn+ across ! patt]n 0 a b&1 9 gold1 *>g$ ) circles enclos+ a sitt+ dog1 a rosette1 a circle hav+ an imitat$ ,arabic s5t5ce ov] x4 #gjhh4 ,"p ( a ,/ole1 or ( a ,maniple2 silk brocade2 gr\nd1 light crimson2 patt]n1 floriations 9 gre51 ) lions rampant 9 gold4 ,sicilian1 late #ad? c5tury4 #bj in*es by #c in*es4 ,! p>ti-col\r$ fr+e to ?is liturgical appliance is ( poor l95 ?read n correspond+ to ! ri*ness ( ! /uff4 #gjhi4 ,silk & ,gold ,damask2 gr\nd1 gold2 patt]n1 bran*es ( foliation1 9 yell[ silk4 ,ori5tal1 #ae? c5tury4 #ag in*es by #c in*es4 ,?\gh r ri* 9 mat]ial1 ! design is s obscure z h>dly to be obs]vable4 #gjij4 ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 purple2 patt]n1 a diap] ( p>rots1 & floriations1 9 bright gre5i% yell[4 ,ori5tal1 #ad? c5tury4 #aa in*es by #d in*es4 ,?\gh ( a poor silk1 ! design is pretty1 & tells ( ! coa/ ( ,syria1 :]e _m ( ! looms 7 kept at "w = ,european use4 #gjia4 ,silk & ,gold ,damask2 gr\nd1 purple2 patt]n1 fleurs-de-lis 9 gold4 ,sicilian1 late #ad? c5tury4 #d in*es squ>e4 ,done1 z 0 (t5 ! case1 = ,fr5* royalty1 or "s "o ( ,fr5* pr9cely blood1 at ,pal]mo1 & s5t to ,france4 ,! /uff is ri*1 & well spr9kl$ ) ! royal gold5 fl[]4 #gjib4 ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 amb] 7once crimson72 patt]n1 a diap] ( fl[]s & leaves1 9 yell[4 ,sicilian1 late #ad? c5tury4 #i in*es by #e in*es broad4 ,( a quiet & pleas+ k9d ( design1 %[+ some?+ l a c\ple ( lett]s 9 ! he>ts ( two ( its fl[]s4 #gjic4 ,embroid]y 9 silk ^u l952 patt]n1 m5 blue1 wom5 :ite1 /&+ 9 a r[ h& 9 h&2 ! spaces fill$ up ) loz5ges 9 :ite4 ,! wom5 ^u a gre51 ! m5 ^u a :ite gr\nd4 ,g]man1 #af? c5tury4 #h in*es by #f in*es4 ,s v worn away is ! ne$lework1 t x is v h>d to see ! design1 :i*1 :5 discov]$1 looks to be v /iff1 poor1 & angul>4 #gjid4 ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 /raw-col\r2 patt]n1 net-"w ( loz5ges & quatrefoils1 fill$ 9 ea* ) a cross pomme1 amid :i* are l>ge circles conta9+ a pair ( p>rots1 all 9 rais$ sat94 ,ori5tal1 #ac? c5tury4 #h in*es by #g in*es4 ,?is f9e textile 01 9 all likelihood1 wov5 by ,*ri/ian h&s some:]e ^u ! ,syrian coa/1 & :ile a religi\s "* 0 giv5 x bo? by ! crosses & ! emblematic p>rots1 a ,p]sian influ5ce by ! use ( ! old5 tradition>y tree betwe5 ! p>rots1 or ! ,p]sians' sacr$ 8hom10 0 all[$ to rema9 ^u ! design]'s m9d )\t 8 own k ( its be+ !re1 or ( its symbolic mean+ 9 ref]5ce to ,p]sia's anci5t hea!n wor%ip4 #gjie4 ,blue ,l951 wr\ght ) gilt ?9 p>*m5t2 patt]n1 an oval1 fill$ 9 ) ano!r oval1 surr\nd$ by six-petal$ fl[]s1 all 9 outl9e2 ?is piece is put ^u ano!r ( a diff]5t design1 ( :i* ! patt]n is an eagle on ! w+4 ,spani%1 #ad? c5tury4 #g in*es by #d- in*es4 ,?is is ano!r specim5 ( gilt p>*m5t be+ us$ in/ead ( gold ?read4 #gjii4 ,foot-clo?2 gr\nd1 gre5 wor/$2 patt]n1 birds & fl[]s4 ,g]man1 #af? c5tury4 #d feet #g in*es by #b feet #g in*es4 ,9 all likelihood1 ?is piece ( ne$lework s]v$ ! purpose ( a rug or foot-clo?1 or1 may be1 z ! clo? cov]+ = ! seat ( a c>riage4 ,x is work$ 9 ?ick wor/$ ^u a wide-me%$ ?read net1 & aft] a some:at /iff design4 #gbah4 ,table-cov]1 9 gre5 silk1 ) wide bord] ( ,italian po9t lace4 ,v5etian1 late #af? c5tury4 #e feet #f in*es by #c feet #b in*es4 ,! patt]n ( ! lace is v bold & well execut$1 & consi/s ( a l>ge foliage-scroll ( ! classic type1 end+ 9 a lion's head1 s *]i%$ by ! ,v5etians1 z ! emblem ( ! ,republic's patron-sa9t1 ,/4 ,m>k4 ,! poor ?9 silk is n wor?y ( its f9e trimm+4 #gbai4 ,table-cov]1 9 light blue silk1 ) wide bord] ( ,italian po9t lace4 ,v5etian1 late #af? c5tury4 #f feet #e in*es by #d feet4 ,! patt]n ( ! lace1 l ! =ego+ specim51 is aft] a classic =m1 consi/+ ( two horns ( pl5ty amid foliage & scroll-"w2 9 bo? pieces we see ! effect ( t s*ool :i* br\ght =? a ,palladio4 #gdfh4 ,a ,lect]n ,veil ( silk & gold cut-"w2 gr\nd1 crimson silk2 design1 ( cut-"w 9 clo? ( gold & :ite & blue silk1 ramifications end+ 9 bun*es ( :ite grapes1 horns ( pl5ty hold+ fruit1 & e>s ( :eat4 ,fr5*1 #ag? c5tury4 #i feet by #a foot #i in*es4 ,su* veils are ?r[n ov] a light moveable /& ^u :i* ! book ( ! ,gospels & ,epi/les is put at high mass1 = ! deacon's use z he s+s ! ,gospel ( ! day4 ,! cut-"w is well-design$1 & sew$ on ) an edg+ ( blue cord 9 "s places1 ( yell[ 9 o!rs4 ,! clo? ( gold 0 s poor t n[ x looks at a %ort di/ance l m]e yell[ silk4 #gfgd4 ,missal ,cu%ion2 gr\nd1 r$ silk2 patt]n1 two angels /&+ face to face & hold+ betwe5 !m a cross1 all 9 gold1 except+ ! angels' faces & h&s1 :i* are :ite2 !re are f\r tassels1 "o at ea* corn]1 crimson & gold4 ,flor5t9e1 e>ly #ae? c5tury4 #a foot #c in*es by #a foot4 ,! cov]+ = ?is cu%ion is made ( orphrey web1 ! gold ( :i* is v mu* fad$2 &1 l o!r specim5s f ! same looms1 %[s ! nudes ( ! figures 9 a p9ki% :ite4 ,! use ( su* cu%ions = uphold+ ! missal ^u ! alt> is ev5 n[ kept up 9 "s places4 ,accord+ to ! rubric ( ! ,roman ,missal1 :]e91 at ! beg9n+ among ! 8rubric g5]ales10 cap4 xx4 x is direct$ t !re %\ld be 89 cornu epi/ol 7alt>is7 cuss9us suppon5dus missali40 #gghh4 ,*asuble1 9 crimson velvet1 ) orphreys embroid]$ 9 gold & col\r$ silks4 ,flor5t9e1 #ae? c5tury4 #d feet long by #b feet #e in*es broad4 ,?is g>m5t has be5 mu* cut d[n1 & s worn t1 9 p>ts1 its ri* & curi\s orphreys are s damag$ z to be un9telligible4 ,ov] ! brea/ & on ! front orphrey is embroid]$ ! ,crucifixion1 b aft] a some:at unusual mann]1 inasmu* z1 besides our ,"l on ! ,cross1 ) ,8 "m & ,/4 ,john ! ,evangeli/ /&+ by2 two o!r sa9ts are introduc$1 ,/4 ,j]ome on "o side1 ,/4 ,lucy on ! o!r1 kneel+ on ! gr\nd at ! foot ( ! ,cross1 possibly ! patrons1 "o ( ! lady1 ! o!r ( ! g5tleman1 at ^: co/ ?is ve/m5t 0 wr\ght4 ,"u ?is is ,/4 ,*ri/9a def5d+ ,*ri/ianity aga9/ ! hea!ns2 h] arraignm5t1 = h] belief1 be=e "o ( ,dioclesian's (ficials2 h] body b\nd nak$1 & sc\rg$ at a pill>4 ,on ! back orphrey1 ! same m>tyr on h] knees by ! side ( ano!r gov]nor1 h] own pagan fa!r1 & pray+ t ! idol1 held to h] = wor%ip by him1 may be brok52 ! sa9t ma9ta9+ h] fai? to ^? :o came to argue ) h] be=e ! w9d[ ( ! prison1 :]e9 %e is %ut up nak$ 9 a cauldron1 ) flames "u x1 & pray+ ) "o ( ! m5 :o are fe$+ ! fire ) bundles ( wood1 on 8 knees1 z if conv]t$ by h] words2 !n1 ! sa9t /&+ at a table1 ar\nd :i* are ?ree m52 & bel[ all1 a piece s worn & cut1 z to be un9telligible4 ,^u ! la/ squ>e b "o is a %ield arg5t1 a b5d azure1 *>g$ ) a cresc5t or1 two />s or1 & ano!r cresc5t or1 probably ! blazon ( ! ,p&olf9i family1 to ^: dome/ic *apel at ,flor5ce ?is ve/m5t is said to h belong$4 #gghi1 #ggij4 ,dalmatic1 & ,tunicle1 9 crimson velvet1 ) app>els ( wov5 /uff 9 gold & crimson silk1 figur$ ) *]ubic heads4 ,flor5t9e1 #ae? c5tury4 ,! velvet is ( a ri* pile1 & ! tone ( col\r w>m4 ,! orphreys1 or r app>els1 are all ( ! same texture1 wov5 ( a r$ gr\nd1 & figur$ 9 gold ) *]ubic heads1 hav+ :ite faces2 ! lace also is r$1 & gold2 b 9 bo? ! gold is q fad$4 ,! sleeves are some:at %ort1 b ! g>m5t itself is full & maje/ic4 ,d\btless ! dalmatic & tunicle =m$ a "p ( a full set ( ve/m5ts1 to :i* ! f9e & curi\sly embroid]$ *asuble1 ,no4 #gghh1 belong$2 & _! app>els1 or squ>e orphreys1 above & bel[1 be=e & beh9d1 are 9 design & execution alike to sev]al o!rs f ! looms ( ,flor5ce1 :i* we h f\nd among v>i\s o!r rema9s ( liturgic g>m5ts 9 ?is collection4 #ggia4 ,piece ( ,wov5 ,orphrey2 gr\nd1 crimson silk2 design1 9 gold1 an alt>1 ) an angel on ea* side clasp+ a column1 & above1 o!r two angels wor%ipp+2 & ^u ! /ep lead+ to ! alt>1 ! words 8sanctus1 sanctus40 ,flor5t9e1 e>ly #af? c5tury4 #i feet #g in*es by #i in*es4 ,! design is evid5tly meant to express ! tab]nacle at ! alt>1 :]e ! bless$ sacram5t is kept 9 *ur*1 = adm9i/ration to ! sick1 c41 &1 l all simil> textiles1 0 made ( su* a l5g? z to be applicable to copes1 *asubles1 & o!r ritual uses4 #ggib4 ,veil = ! subdeacon1 ( rais$ velvet & gold2 gr\nd1 gold2 patt]n1 a broad scroll1 %[+1 amid foliation1 a conv5tional arti*oke 9 rais$ crimson velvet4 ,flor5t9e1 late #af? c5tury4 #ad feet #d in*es by #a foot #aj in*es4 ,! bright yell[ gr\nd is m ( silk ?an gold ?read1 & ! velvet design1 deep 9 its ri* pile & gl[+ 9 its ruby t9t1 is dott$ ) ! usual gold ?read loops2 at ea* end is a gold5 fr+e2 bo? edges are bord]$ ) poor gold op5 lace2 & /ill atta*$ to x are ! two %ort yell[ silk /r+s = ty+ x 9 front1 :5 put ab\t ! %\ld]s ( ! subdeacon at ! (f]tory1 :5 ! pat5 is giv5 him to hold at high mass4 #ggic4 ,hood ( a ,cope2 gr\nd1 mo/ly gold1 & a small "p1 silv]2 figur$ ) two ador+ angels2 ! c5tre piece gone1 & 9 its place a sa9t /&+1 & done 9 wov5 "w4 ,flemi%1 #ae? c5tury2 ! ins]t$ sa9t1 ,flor5t9e1 #ae? c5tury4 #a foot #d in*es by #a foot #d in*es4 ,! figures ( ! angels 9 wor%ip are nicely done 9 flos-silk2 & p]haps ! orig9al lo/ figure 0 t ( our ,"l1 or ( ! ,b4 ,v4 ,m>y4 ,! lay sa9t n[ ins]t$1 b>e-head$1 & lean+ on 8 sword1 we>+ a gre5 tunic1 & a blue mantle spr9kl$ ) trefoils 9 r$ & gold1 p]haps meant = fleurs-de-lis1 seems to be int5d$ = ,/4 ,l\is ( ,france4 ,! broad gre5 silk fr+e1 & ! po9t$ %ape ( ! hood w n escape notice2 & beh9d may yet be se5 ! eyes by :i* ?is hood 0 hung ^u ! cope4 ,! poor %abby silv] t9sel r\nd ?is k+ is an addition q mod]n4 #ggid4 ,burse = ,corporals2 gr\nd1 crimson sat92 patt]n1 foliations & fl[]s 9 col\r$ silks & gold1 ) a phnix ris+ f ! flames 9 ! middle4 ,g]man1 late #ag? c5tury4 #aa in*es by #aj in*es4 #ggie4 ,burse = ,corporals2 gr\nd1 crimson velvet2 patt]n1 velvet ^u velvet1 l9$ at back ) silk2 gr\nd1 amb]1 figur$ ) a modification ( ! arti*oke1 9 deep crimson4 ,italian1 #af? c5tury4 #aj in*es by #aj in*es4 ,illu/ration3 #ggie4 ,,silk ,,damask1 ,italian---- #af? c5tury4 ,?\gh probably ?is burse1 l ! "o above1 may h come f a *ur* 9 ,g]many1 its beautiful mat]ials are ( ,italian manufacture2 ! f9e deep pil$ velvet ^u velvet1 f ,g5oa1 ! well-design$ & pleas+ silk at back1 f ,lucca1 & _m ye>s1 may be a half c5tury1 old] ?an ! velvet1 make ?is small liturgical article v notewor?y on acc\nt ( its mat]ials4 #ggii4 ,veil ( rais$ crimson velvet2 gr\nd1 yell[ silk & gold ?read2 patt]n1 l>ge floriations all 9 crimson velvet1 freckl$ ) little gold5 loops4 ,flor5t9e1 #ag? c5tury4 #aa feet #b in*es by #a foot #aj in*es4 ,"o ( ^? magnific5t textures ( cut velvet1 ) a f9e ri* pile1 s5t =? by ! looms ( ,tuscany4 ,its use may h be5 bo? = a veil to ! lect]n = ! ,gospel1 & to be worn by ! subdeacon at high mass2 ! two /r+s1 atta*$ to x /ill1 evid5tly %[ its application to ! latt] purpose4 ,a heavy gold fr+e bord]s its two ends1 ! scollop$ %ape ( :i* is r unusual4 #ghac4 ,front ,orphrey ( a ,*asuble1 embroid]$ ) figures 9 ni*es4 ,italian1 late #ae? c5tury4 #c feet #a in* by #g in*es2 at ! cross1 #a in*es4 ,! fir/ figure is t ( our ,"l giv+ ,8 bless+1 & ( a v y\?ful c\nt5ance2 next1 seem+ly ! figure ( ,/4 ,pet]2 !n ,/4 ,john ! ,evangeli/4 ,all ^! are done 9 col\r$ silks1 ^u a gr\nd ( gold1 & )9 ni*es2 b are sadly worn4 ,! two angels at our ,"l's head are ! be/ 9 pres]vation2 b ! :ole is r poor 9 execution4 ,z a bord]1 !re are two /rips figur$ ) silv] crosses ^u gr\nds ( diff]5t col\r$ silks4 #ghac;,a4 ,"p ( an ,orphrey1 embroid]$ ) figures ( ! ,apo/les4 ,italian1 late #ae? c5tury4 #d feet by #g in*es4 ,( ! five p]sonages1 only ! second1 ,/4 ,paul1 c be id5tifi$ by 8 symbol ( a sword4 ,all are wr\ght ^u a gold5 diap]1 & /&+ )9 ni*es2 b ?\gh ! features are /rongly m>k$ 9 br[n silk l9es1 z a specim5 x is n rem>kably good2 &1 mo/ likely1 s]v$ z ! orphrey to "s ve/m5t1 a *asuble1 ! orphrey ( :i* = ! front 0 ! piece numb]$ #ghac4 #ghcc4 ,piece ( ,appli$ ,embroid]y1 ^u silk ( a creamy :ite1 an ornam5tation 9 crimson velvet & clo? ( gold1 scollop$ & tassel$4 ,italian1 e>ly #ag? c5tury4 ,ri* ( its k9d1 & probably a "p ( h\sehold furniture4 #gijj4 ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 blue2 patt]n1 diap] ( /alks1 be>+ a broad foliation 9 :iti% blue1 & lions1 & birds l hoopoes1 all 9 gold1 betwe5 horizontal b&s inscrib$ ) imitat$ ,s>ac5ic lett]s4 ,sicilian1 #ad? c5tury1 #aj in*es squ>e4 ,a beautiful design2 & 9 ! b&s1 at ea* end ( ! imitat$ ^w 9 ,s>ac5ic *>act]s1 are ^? knots t are f\nd on ,italian textiles4 ,s poor 0 ! gold on ! ?read1 t x is sadly t>ni%$4 #habh4 ,app>els to an ,alb2 figur$ ) ! bir? ( ! ,b4 ,v4 ,m>y1 9 ! upp] "o2 & 9 ! l[]1 ! bir? ( our ,"l2 ) two armorial %ields alt]nat+ betwe5 ! sp&rils ( ! canopies4 ,engli% ne$lework1 on crimson velvet1 & 9 col\r$ silks & gold ?read1 done 9 ! latt] half ( ! #ad? c5tury4 ,ea* piece #b feet #h in*es by #aj in*es4 ,pres5t$ by ,ralf ,oakd51 ,esq4 ,9 _m respects ^! two app>els1 seem+ly = ! l[] adornm5t ( ! liturgical alb1 "o be=e1 ! o!r beh9d1 are v valuable2 besides ! subjects !y repres5t1 !y af=d illu/rations ( ! /yle ( ne$lework1 ar*itecture1 co/ume1 & h]aldry ( _! "t4 ,9 ! upp] app>el1 we h ! bir? & *ildhood ( ! "m ( our ,"l1 z x is f\nd 9 "o ( ! apocryphal books ( ! ,new ,te/am5t1 entitl$1--8,evangelium de ,nativitate ,s4 ,m>iae10 :i* ! ,lat9s got f ! ,greeks1 z e>ly1 x w\ld seem1 z ! second or ?ird age ( ! ,*ur*4 ,?\gh ( no au?ority1 ?is book 0 9 especial fav\r ) our c\ntrym51 & x 0 n unfrequ5tly notic$ 9 _! writ+s2 h5ce1 no d\bt1 ! upp] app>el 0 sugge/$ by t pseudo-gospel4 ,9 its fir/ comp>tm5t1 we behold a middle-ag$ lady1 ri*ly clad1 hav+ a mantle ( gold1 l9$ ) vair or co/ly fur1 ab\t h] %\ld]s1 seat$ on a cu%ion$ /ool ) a lect]n1 or read+-desk be=e h]1 & ^u x an op5 book ( ! ,psalms1 ) ! beg9n+ ( ! fiftie? writt5 on its silv] pages1--8,mis]]e mei1 ,deus10 c41 & out/ret*+ h] h&s t[>ds an angel com+ d[n f ! cl\ds1 & z he hails h] ) "o h&1 holds1 unroll$1 be=e h] eyes1 a scroll be>+ ^! words3--8,occurre viro ad portam40 ,?is female is ,ann1 wife ( ,joa*im1 & "m ( ,m>y2 & ! :ole is ?us set =? 9 ! ,codex ,apocryphus ,novi ,te/am5ti2 :]e ! angel1 :o appe>$ to h] :ile %e 0 at pray]1 is said to h spok5 ^! words3--8,ne timeas1 ,anna1 neque phantasma esse putes4444 ,itaque surge1 asc5de ,hi]usalem1 et cum p]v5]is ad portam qu aurea1 pro eo quod deaurata e/1 vocatur1 ibi pro signo virum tuum obvium habebis10 c4--,evangelium de ,nativitate ,s4 ,m>iae1 c4 iv4 9 ,,cod4 ,,apocry4 ed4 ,?ilo1 pp4 #cbd1 #cbe4 ,?is passage is ?us r5d]$ 9 t r>e old ,engli% black-lett] book ( s]mons call$ 8,! ,fe/ival10 :i* 0 s (t5 pr9t$ by ,caxton1 ,wynkyn de ,worde1 & o!r e>ly pr9t]s 9 ,london3--8,anne 0 sory & pray$ to ,god & sayde1 ,lorde1 t me is woo4 ,i am b>eyne1 & ,i may h noo frute 444 & ,i kn[e n :y!r he 7,joa*im my husb&7 is gone4 ,lorde h m]cy on me4 ,:5e z %e pray$ ?us an angell come d[ne & com=t$ h]1 & sayd3 ,anne1 be ( gode com=t1 = ?\ %alt h a *ilde 9 ?yne olde age1 !re 0 nev] none lyke1 ne nev] %all be 444 & :an he 7,joa*im7 come nye home1 ! angell come to ,anne1 & bade h] goo to ! gate t 0 call$ ! gold5 gate1 & abide h] husbonde !re tyll he come4 ,!ne 0 %e glad 444 & w5t to ! gate & !re %e mete ) ,joa*im1 & sayd1 ,"l1 ,i ?anke !e1 = ,i 0 a w$[ & n[ ,i am a wyfe1 ,i 0 b>eyne & n[ ,i %all be> a *ilde 444 & :an %e 7! *ild7 0 borne1 %e 0 call$ ,m>y40--,! ,fe/ival1 fol4 lxvi4 ,9 ! second comp>tm5t we h a fur!r illu/ration ( ! =ego+ text 9 ! repres5tation ( ! gold5 gate at ,j]usalem1 & ,anna & ,joa*im greet+ "o ano!r z !y meet !re4 ,9 ! ?ird1 !re is ! ly+-9 ( ,anna1 :o f h] own b$ is swa?+ h] new-born *ild1 :om ! ,almighty's "r h& com+ f heav5 is bless+4 ,9 ! f\r? is ,anna br++ h] little girl ,m>y1 :5 ?ree ye>s old1 z an (f]+ to ,god1 9 ! temple1 be=e ! ,high ,prie/4 ,9 ! fif? & la/ comp>tm5t ( ?is upp] r[ ( ni*es1 we see ,anna tea*+ h] daught]1 ! ,b4 ,v4 ,m>y1 to read ! ,psalt]4 ,9 ! fir/ comp>tm5t 9 ! l[] app>el1 or on ! second r[1 ! angel ,gabriel1 w+$ & b>efoot1 is repres5t$ /&+ be=e ! ,b4 ,v4 ,m>y1 :om ) 8 "r he is bless+1 :ile 9 8 left he holds out be=e h] a scroll on :i* are ! words3--8,ave ,m>ia gracia40 ,%e out/ret*es h] h&s1 & g5tly b5d+ h] head =w>ds1 seems to b[ ass5t2 betwe5 !m is ! lily-pot1 &1 z x %\ld1 holds b "o fl[]-/em1 ) ?ree1 & only ?ree1 full-bl[n lilies 78,*ur* ( our ,fa!rs10 t4 iii4 p4 #bdg72 above1 is ! ,holy ,gho/1 figur$ z a :ite dove1 com+ d[n ^u ! ,virg94 ,to ?is foll[s ,/4 ,elizabe?'s visit to ! ,b4 ,v4 ,m>y1 or ! ,salutation1 z x is (t5 call$ 9 ?is c\ntry4 ,!n we h ! ,nativity1 aft] ! usual mann]1 ) ! ox & ass wor%ipp+ at ! crib :]e9 our ,"l is ly+ 9 swaddl+ clo!s2 & ,/4 ,joseph is figur$ we>+ gloves4 ,fill+ ! next ni*e1 we behold ! angel com+ f ! skies1 ) a scroll 9 8 h&s inscrib$1--8,gloria 9 excelsis ,deo10 to ! %eph]ds1 "o ( :om is play+ on a bag-pipe ) "o h&1 z ) ! o!r he is r++ a bell1 :i* draws ! att5tion ( 8 dog t sits be=e him ) upturn$ head & gap+ m\?4 ,9 ! la/ comp>tm5t we h ! ?ree wise m51 clo!d & cr[n$ z k+s1 go+ to ,be?lehem ) _! gifts1 b none ( !m is a negro4 ,( ! two %ields hung alt]nately betwe5 e sp&ril1 "o is1--b>ry ( t5 arg5t & gules1 :i* 0 ! blazon ( ,?ornell de ,suffolk2 & ! o!r1--azure ?ree c9que-foils arg5t1 t ( ! family ( ,fitton1 accord+ to a ,,ms4 ord9>y ( arms1 drawn up by ,rob]t ,glov]1 "s "t ,som]set h]ald4 ,9 ! subject ( ! %eph]ds1 ! gr\nd is s pl5tifully spr9kl$ ) gr[+ daisies1 t x seems z if x 7 done on purpose to tell u t %e ^: h&s _h wr\ght ! "w 0 call$ ,m>g>et2 z ! fl[] 0 9 ,fr5* designat$ 8,la ,m>gu]ite10 x became ! symbol ( t sa9t's "n1 & n unfrequ5tly 0 ! *os5 emblem ( ! females :o bore x4 #hbbf4 ,gold ,embroid]y on purple silk ov] a :ite cotton gr\nd1 ) figures ( our ,savi\r & ( ! apo/les ,/4 ,pet]1 ,/4 ,simon1 & ,/4 ,philip4 ,sicilian "w1 done ab\t ! end ( ! #ab? c5tury4 #ad in*es by #g in*es4 ,?is piece ( ne$lework ) its figures1 z well z its ar*itectural accessories1 wr\ght 9 gold ?read1 ?\gh rude 9 its execution1 is n )\t an int]e/4 ,9 x ! liturgical /ud5t w f9d ! half ( an app>el 7= x has be5 unfeel+ly cut 9 half at "s remote "t7 = ! l[] hem 9 front ( ! l95 g>m5t kn[n z ! alb4 ,orig9ally x mu/ h consi/$ ( sev5 figures2 "o ( our ,"l1 9 ! middle1 sitt+ ^u a ?rone 9 maje/y ) ! on ! "o side & ! on ! o!r side ( ,8 nimb$ head1 & ,8 "r h& uplift$ 9 ! act ( be/[+ ,8 b5$iction4 ,to ! left mu/ h be5 ?ree apo/les2 to ! "r are /ill to be se5 ! o!r ?ree1 ne>e/ our ,savi\r1 ,/4 ,pet]1 hold+ 9 8 left h& a d\ble-w>d$ key1 next to him ,/4 ,simon1 ) 8 "r h& 9 ! act ( bless+1 & hold+ 9 8 left a saw fa%ion$ n l ours1 b z t in/rum5t is /ill made 9 ,italy1 & la/ ( all ,/4 ,philip1 b )\t any symbol4 ,:at look l half-moons ) a little dot 9 ! inside1 & hav+ a cross betwe5 !m1 are no?+ m ?an ! ^w 8,sanctus10 ?us contract$ ) ! lett] ,s writt5 z ! ,greek sigma =m$ l our ,c1 a common practice 9 ,italy dur+ ! middle ages1 z may be se5 9 ! inscriptions giv5 by writ]s on ,palography4 ,our ,"l is seat$ )9 an elongat$ trefoil1 &1 at ea* corn] at ! outw>d sides1 is %[n "o ( ,8 emblems1 bett] kn[n z ! ,evangeli/s' symbols h9t$ at by ! prophet ,ezekiel1 i4 #aj3 ( ^!1 two are v disc]nible1 ! w+$ human bu/1 commonly call$ ,/4 ,mat!w's emblem1 at top1 & ! nimb$ & w+$ horn$ ox or calf = ,/4 ,luke4 ,! ,apo/les all /& )9 r\nd-head$ ar*es1 ! sp&rils ( :i* are fill$ 9 ) a k9d ( diap] ornam5tation4 #hbbg4 ,piece ( ,crimson ,silk1 ) patt]n wov5 9 gold ?read4 ,sicilian1 e>ly #ac? c5tury4 #aj in*es by #g in*es4 ,?is ri* sample ( ! looms ( ,pal]mo betrays ! ar*itectural influ5ces1 :i* act$ ^u ! design]s ( su* /uffs1 by ! introduction ( t ramifi$ ornam5tation ) its graceful b5d+s1 t is s m>k$ a "* 9 ! build+s ( ,engl& & ,france at ! close ( ! #ab? & op5+ ( ! #ac? c5tury4 ,! fleur-de-lis is r an accid5tal ?an int5tional adaptation1 ye>s be=e ! ,fr5* occupation ( ,sicily4 #hbbh4 ,piece ( ,purple ,silk ,embroid]y 9 gold & silv]2 patt]n ( int]lac$ dragons1 human figures1 & birds4 ,nor? ,g]man1 #ab? c5tury4 #h in*es by #g in*es4 ,?is small sample ( ne$lework is z rem>kable = ! way 9 :i* x is wr\ght1 z = ! wild ,sc&9avian my?ology :i* is figur$ on x4 ,! usual process = ! application ( gold & silv] 9 textiles & embroid]y is to tw9e ! preci\s metal ab\t cotton ?read1 & ?us weave x 9 ) ! %uttle or /it* x on by ! ne$le4 ,"h1 h[ev]1 ! silv]1 9 "p :ite 9 its orig9al condition1 9 "p gilt1 is laid on 9 ! =m ( a v ?9 b solid wire1 unmix$ ) cotton1 & ! effect is v ri* & brilliant4 ,9 ! middle ( ?is piece are %[n two mon/]s int]lac+ "o ano!r2 )9 ! upp] coil :i* !y make ) _! snake-l l5g?s1 /&s a human figure :i*1 f its dress1 looks t ( a man :o ) ea* out/ret*$ h&1 seems fondl+ ! s]p5t-heads ( ^! two mon/]s2 t at ! o!r end t]m9ates 9 ! upp] portion ( an imag9>y dragon ) w+s on its %\ld]s1 its paws well arm$ ) claws1 & a wolfi% head l>gely horn$1 & jaws widely yawn+1 z eag] to swall[ its prey4 ,to our ?9k+1 we h %[n to u "h ! ,sc&9avian p]sonification ( evil 9 ! human figure ( ! bad god ,loki 7! embroid]y ( ^: face is worn away7 & 8 wick$ (fspr+1 ! ,midg>d s]p5t1 ! wolf ,f5rir1 & ,hela or ,dea?1 :o may be id5tifi$ 9 t female figure seat$ )9 ! small] l[] coil made by ! tw9+ s]p5ts4 ,amid "s leaf-be>+ bran*es to ! "r is p]ceiv$ a man z if runn+ away affright$2 to ! left we behold ,?or himself1 mallet 9 h&1 ab\t to deal a heavy bl[ ^u ! scaly l5g? ( ?is ,midg>d s]p5t4 ,ab\t ! same "t ?is embroid]y 0 work$ ! bi%op's crozi] began to end 9 ! s]p5t's head4 ,a good figure ( ?is piece is giv5 by ,dr4 ,bock1 9 8 8,ges*i*te d] ,liturgis*5 ,gewnd] des ,mittelalt]s10 #a ,b&1 #b ,lief]ung1 pt4 vi4 #hbbi4 ,piece ( ,crimson ,silk1 ) int]lac+ patt]n wov5 9 gold2 ! c5tre occupi$ ) repres5tations ( flat-%ap$ fi%1 &1 z we le>n f ,dr4 ,bock1 l to an imp]ial robe at ,vi5na1 made ,a4,d4 #aacc4 ,ori5tal4 #aa in*es by #e in*es4 ,?\gh ( a v tame design & r /rik+ = ! sp>+ way 9 :i* ! dim gold is roll$ ab\t its ?read1 /ill x is n fair to judge ( :at ?is /uff might h once be5 :5 new1 fre% f ! loom & unfad$4 ,if1 9 ! fir/ half ( ! #ab? c5tury1 silks s wr\ght ) ! repres5tation ( fi%es 7 deem$ wor?y ( be+ put into use = /ate g>m5ts ( a ,g]man ,emp]or2 a %ort hundr$ ye>s lat]1 !y 7 = _! symbolism ?\ght ev5 m fitt+ to be employ$ = mak+ ! *asubles & copes worn at div9e s]vice 9 ! ca!dral ( ,london4 ,f ! inv5tory drawn up1 ,a4,d4 #abie1 ( ! alt> ve/m5ts belong+ to old ,/ ,paul's1 we le>n t among !m !re 73--8,capa magi/ri ,johannis de ,s4 ,cl>o1 de quodam panno ,t>sico1 viridis coloris1 cum plurimis piscibus et rosis de aurifilo1 contextis40 ,dugdale's 8,hi/ory ( ,/4 ,paul's10 new ed4 p4 #cah4 8,item casula de panno ,t>sico indici coloris cum pisculis et rosulis aureis1 c40 ,ib4 p4 #cbc4 ,9 all likelihood1 ! fi% "h %[n 0 meant = :at we oddly call 8,john ,dory10 a corruption ( ! ,italian 8,gianitore10 or gate-keep]1 ! "n ( ?is fi% 9 "s p>ts ( ,italy1 9 ref]5ce to ,/4 ,pet]1 :o is deem$ to h f\nd ! tribute-money 9 ! m\? ( ?is fi%1 h5ce d5om9at$ ,/4 ,pet]'s fi%4 #hbcj4 ,piece ( s-call$ ,bissus1 ( a yell[i% :ite1 ) squ>es =m$ by int]sect+ b>s ( d>k br[n4 #aa in*es by #h in*es4 ,?\gh s unattractive to ! eye1 ?is fragm5t ( "o ( ! mo/ delicate sorts ( textile manufacture is "o among ! mo/ curi\s & int]e/+ specim5s ( ?is valuable collection4 ,un=tunately1 ,dr4 ,bock does n furni% u ) any clue to its hi/ory1 nor tell u :]e he f\nd x4 ,! l>ge :iti% squ>es measure #d in*es by #c in*es1 & ^? deep br[n b>s t enclose !m are a qu>t] ( an in* broad1 & meant evid5tly to h n a /raight b wavy =m4 ,ano!r piece ( ?is curi\s textile may be se5 "u ,no4 #abch4 #hbca4 ,piece ( ,yell[ ,silk1 ) a diap]+ ( an arti*oke %ape m>k$ ) l9es l lett]s4 ,moresco-,spani%1 #ad? c5tury4 #f in*es by #c in*es4 ,! texture ( ?is silk is r ?ick2 & ?\gh resembl+ ,arabic lett]s1 ! m>ks 9 ! diap]+ are n alphabetical *>act]s1 b attempts to imitate !m4 #hbca;,a4 ,piece ( ,d>k ,blue ,purple ,/uff1 p>tly silk1 p>tly cotton1 d\ble-dy$1 ) a diap]+ ( small hexagons4 ,ori5tal4 #e in*es by #b in*es4 ,?is some:at /rong texture seems to h come f ,syria & to be ( ! #ad? c5tury4 #hbcb4 ,piece ( ,silk & ,gold ,embroid]y4 ,g]man1 #h in*es by #c in*es4 ,x is said t an imp]ial tunic1 n[ kept 9 ! ,maximilian ,museum at ,muni*1 once belong$ to ! ,emp]or ,h5ry ,,ii41 & 0 spok5 ( z su* 9 a li/ ( ! treasures ( ,bamb]g ,ca!dral 9 ! #ab? c5tury4 ,f ! bord] ( ?is tunic ! piece be=e u is report$ to h be5 cut (f4 ,t 9 ! #ab? c5tury ,bamb]g ,ca!dral _h ! imp]ial 7probably ! coronation7 tunic ( its build] & great b5efactor1 & z su* reckon$ x among its preci\s ?+s1 0 b natural2 x1 h[ev]1 by no means foll[s t ?is is ! g>m5t n[ at ,muni* & br\ght f ,bamb]g six hundr$ ye>s aft] its reput$ own]'s dea?1 & put into ! museum 9 8 palace by ! ,elector ,maximilian1 ,a4,d4 #afjg4 ,keep+ 9 m9d t ! ,emp]or ,h5ry ,,ii4 0 cr[n$ at ! v beg9n+ ( ! #aa? c5tury1 ab\t ! ye> #ajjb1 & see+ 9 ! piece be=e u ! /yle ( ! end ( ! #ab? c5tury--) ?us a p]iod ( almo/ two hundr$ ye>s betwe5 ! two epo*s--we _c recognize ?is specim5 to h ev] =m$ a portion ( ! real tunic ( ! above-nam$ ,g]man emp]or4 ,besides its /yle1 its mat]ials =bid u to accept x z su*4 ,its design is set =? 9 cord+ ( a co>se ?read r\ghly put toge!r2 ! spaces betwe5 are fill$ 9 ) %r$s ( r$ silk5 gold tissue1 & ( gold /uff sew$ on to v co>se canvas4 ,t1 9 ?is condition1 x _h be5 mu* us$1 & ne$$ m5d+ ?r\gh long we>1 is evid5t f o!r pieces ( a gold & velvet texture ( ! #ad? c5tury be+ let 9 "h & !re ov] ! fray$ portions1 ?us %[+ a second example ( :at is call$ 8appli$40 ,l ,g]many1 ,engl&1 too1 has made its mi/akes on su* matt]s1 = we are told t 8z ! k+s ( ,engl& are inve/$ ) ! cr[n ( ,/4 ,edw>d1 _! que5s are cr[n$ ) t ( ,/4 ,edgi?a1 :i* is nam$ 9 hon\r ( ! ,confessor's consort40--,taylor's 8,glory ( ,regality10 p4 #fc4 ,9 ! inv5tory1 drawn up 9 ! ye> #afdi1 8( t "p ( ! ,regalia :i* are n[ remov$ f ,we/m9/] to ! ,t[] ,jewel ,h\se10 we f9d ent]$ 8,que5 ,edi?'s cr[ne1 ,k+ ,alfr$'s cr[ne10 c4--,taylor's 8,glory ( ,regality10 p4 #cac4 ,! likelihood is t1 9 ! #ag? c5tury1 ^! suppos$ ,anglo-,saxon cr[ns 7 n #bjj ye>s old4 #hbcc4 ,piece ( ,:ite ,silk1 ) ri* patt]n ( circles enclos+ leop>ds & griff9s1 & a diap] ( scrolls & birds4 ,ori5tal1 #ac? c5tury4 #a foot #aa in*es by #i in*es4 ,l ! piece imm$iately prec$+1 ?is too comes to u ) an acc\nt t x once =m$ a "p ( ! :ite silk imp]ial tunic belong+ to ! same holy ,emp]or ,h5ry ,,ii41 & 0 cut (f f t g>m5t n[ pres]v$ 9 ! ,maximilian ,museum 9 ! royal palace at ,muni*4 ,t x c\ld h be5 wr\ght s e>ly z ! beg9n+ ( ! #aa? c5tury1 t is1 ab\t ! ye> #ajjb1 we are h9d]$ f believ+ by ! /yle ( ! ornam5tation ( ?is v ri* /uff4 ,z a specim5 ( ! ,arabic loom 9 ! #ac? c5tury x is mo/ valuable1 & looks z if its design] _h 9 8 m9d ,p]sian traditions controll$ by ,arabic ideas :ile he drew its patt]n4 ,a remembrance ( ! celebrat$ ,p]sian ,hom1 or sacr$ tree1 :i* sep>ates bo? ! griff9s1 ! leop>ds1 & ! birds--seem+ly peacocks 9 "o place1 long-tail$ p>rots 9 ano!r--0 cle>ly be=e him4 ,! griff9s are addors$ reg>dant & sket*$ ) _s2 s too are ! leop>ds1 :i* are coll>$1 & l ! 8papyonns10 or pres5t ,ea/ ,indian 8*eetahs10 ( :i* m5tion is made at ,no4 #hbhh4 ,altoge!r ?is patt]n1 :i* is ?r[n (f ) s mu* fre$om1 is among ! mo/ pleas+ & effective 9 ! collection1 & ! ?ickness ( its silk5 texture r5d]s x rem>kable4 #hbcd4 ,piece ( ,purple ,silk1 d\ble-dy$1 ! patt]n =m$ ( squ>es fill$ 9 ) a ,greek cross amid conv5tional ornam5ts4 ,sicilian1 #ab? c5tury4 #g in*es by #i in*es4 ,! w>p is ( l95 ?read1 ! wo( ( silk1 & z ! two mat]ials h n tak5 ! dye 9 ! same degree1 ! gr\nd is ( q ano!r tone f ! patt]n1 :i* is1 9 a mann]1 =tunate1 z ?us a bett] effect is produc$4 ,n = a mom5t c we look ^u ?is piece z a specim5 ( real imp]ial purple wr\ght at ,byzantium = royal use1 & s highly spok5 ( by ,ana/asius ,biblio!c>ius1 & call$ by him 8blat?910 ) ! di/+ui%+ adjunct ( 8holos]icus10 or made entirely ( silk1 & sometimes notic+ x z 8porphyreticum10 :ile enum]at+ ! gifts ( ri* silks be/[$ ^u ! *ur*es at ,rome by pontifical & imp]ial b5efactors4 #hbce4 ,piece ( ,yell[ ,silk1 ) patt]n ( circles enclos+ griff9s1 ! int]spaces fill$ 9 ) hawks4 ,byzant9e1 #aa? c5tury4 #ab in*es by #aj in*es4 ,?is well wov5 & ?ickly bodi$ /uff %[s its ,byzant9e orig9 9 t /yle ( ornam5tation se5 9 ! circles s *>act]i/ic ( a ,greek h&1 z may be f\nd 9 ! ,byzant9e ,,mss4 ( ! p]iod4 ,:at makes ?is specim5 some:at rem>kable1 is ! r>e occurr5ce ( f9d+ ! birds & animals figur$ 9 l9es ( silv] ?read4 ,dr4 ,bock tells u t ! *asuble ( ,bi%op ,b]nw>d1 :o di$ 9 ! #aa? c5tury1 is decorat$ ) a simil> design4 #hbcf4 ,piece ( ,silk1 ,tyrian purple1 diap]$ ) palmette patt]n4 ,ori5tal1 #aa? c5tury4 #a foot #d in*es by #h in*es4 ,! hundr$s ( ye>s t h pass$ ov] ?is remnant ( ! ,ea/]n looms h /ol5 f x t brightness ( tone :i* once1 no d\bt1 %one ab\t its surface4 #hbcg4 ,portion ( ,silk ,bord]1 crimson wr\ght 9 gold1 ) circles conta9+ grotesque animals4 ,italian 7871 middle ( ! #ac? c5tury4 #a foot #e in*es by #c in*es4 ,?is well fill$ piece conta9s birds & bea/s1 among ! latt] two dogs addors$1 embroid]$ ) circles1 ^u pla9 r$ silk4 ,by ! ornam5tation1 ! embroid]y mu/ be ab\t ! middle ( ! #ac? c5tury1 & is ( t g5]al "* :i* h9d]s national id5tification1 ?\gh !re c be no d\bt x mu/ h be5 wr\ght by "s h& 9 ,we/]n ,europe4 #hbch4 ,?ree ,pieces ( ,silk1 discol\r$ to dull olive1 diap]$ ) a closely foliat$ patt]n4 ,sicilian1 #ac? c5tury4 ,respectively #f in*es by #d in*es1 #d in*es by #d in*es1 & #f in*es by #c in*es4 ,! design ( ! patt]n is v elaborate & wor?y ( att5tion = ! ta/eful way 9 :i* x is arrang$4 #hbch;,a4 ,piece ( ,silk1 ) lilac patt]n1 enclos+ grotesque animals4 ,sicilian1 #ac? c5tury4 #c in*es by #a in*es4 ,!re is no reason = assum+ t ?is piece ( wov5 /uff =m$ ! orphrey ( a /ole or any o!r liturgical ornam5t4 ,x is1 h[ev]1 a f9e specim5 9 its k9d1 & is "o ( ! v _m pro(s to be f\nd among ! textiles & embroid]ies 9 ! ,museum1 ( ! influ5ce ex]cis$ by h]aldry ^u ! looms ( ,we/]n ,europe4 ,! bea/s & birds are evid5tly h]aldic1 & are h]aldically plac$1 especially ! bea/s1 :i* are /atant reg>dant4 #hbci4 ,maniple 9 ,crimson ,silk1 embroid]$ 9 col\rs & gold ) emblematical animals4 ,! ends conta9 )9 circles1 "o ! lion1 symbolical ( ,*ri/1 ! o!r ! initial ,m1 b ( mu* lat] "w4 ,! silk1 ,ori5tal2 ! embroid]y1 ,g]man1 e>ly #ad? c5tury4 #c feet #h in*es by #g in*es4 ,?is valuable specim5 ( m$ival *ur*-embroid]y is v curi\s1 inasmu* z x conta9s ?ree di/9ct p]iods ( "w2 ! middle "p ( ! e>lie/ portion ( ! #ad? c5tury1 embroid]$ ) s _m fanta/ic figures2 ! lion passant ) ! human head1 at ! left end1 ( ! beg9n+ ( ! #ac?2 & ! gre5 lett] ,m1 poorly work$ on ! r$ g>m5t laid b>e at ! "r end by ! loss ( ! circul> piece ( embroid]y once sew$ on !re1 no d\bt 9 ! /yle & ( ! same p]iod ( ! human-fac$ lion1 ( ! latt] "p ( ! #ae? c5tury4 ,! :ole ( ! middle piece is ( ne$lework1 & figur$ ) sixte5 figures1 f\r-legg$ bea/s 9 ! body1 & human 9 ! heads1 all ( :i* are se51 by ! hair1 to be female4 ,all are /atant g>dant or /&+ & look+ full 9 ! face ( ! spectator4 ,eight ( !m are play+ musical in/rum5ts1 mo/ ( :i* are /r+$ & h>p-%ap$1 "o a cl>ionet-l pipe1 ano!r ca/anets1 & two cymbals1 & are human d[n to ! wai/2 ! o!r eight seem meant = que5s we>+ cr[ns1 & hav+ ! hair v full1 b rea*+ no fur!r ?an ! %\ld]s1 :ile ! m9/rel females %[ a long braid ( d>k br[n hair fall+ all d[n ! back4 ,! que5s h w+s1 & are human only 9 head & neck2 ! musical figures are w+less1 & human z f> z ! wai/4 ,all ^! mon/]s display l>ge tails1 :i* end 9 an op5-m\!d head l t ( a fox1 & are all n\$4 ,ea* ( ^! figures /&s )9 a squ>e1 :i* is /udd$ at ea* corn] ) ! curi\s f\r-po9t$ love-knot1 & 9 ! ornam5tation ( its sides ! cresc5t is v conspicu\s2 besides :i*1 ^u ! bodies ( ^! figures !mselves num]\s r+-l spots are /udi\sly m>k$1 z if to %[ t ! f\r-legg$ animal 0 a leop>d4 ,grotesques l ^? 9 ?is curi\s piece ( embroid]y ab\nd 9 ! ,,mss4 ( ! #ad? c5tury2 & ^? cut 9 /one on ! nor? & s\? walls outside ,add]bury ,*ur*1 ,oxon1 be> a /rong lik5ess to !m4 ,^! fictiti\s creatures1 made up ( a woman1 a leop>d--! bea/ ( prey1 a fox--! emblem ( craft9ess & sly cunn+1 wield+ too ! p[] ( weal? & au?ority1 %[n 9 ^? regal heads1 & br++ ^? sir5 influ5ces ( music1 love1 & revelry into action1 lead to ! belief t "u su* imag]y !re 0 once hidd5 a symbolic mean+1 :i* /ill rema9s to be f\nd out1 & ?is embroid]y may yield "s help 9 su* an int]e/+ /udy4 ,all ! figures are wr\ght on f9e canvas 9 gold ?read1 & %ad$ ) silk ?read 9 v>i\s col\rs1 ! gr\nd be+ fill$ 91 9 %ort /it*1 ) a bright-ton$ crimson silk t has kept its col\r admirably4 ,! n>r[ tape ) a gold ornam5t ^u a crimson gr\nd1 t encloses ! squ>e at ea* end ( ?is liturgical appliance1 is v good1 & p]haps ( ! #ac? c5tury1 z well z ! _m-col\r$ fr+e ( ! #ae?4 ,!re is no d\bt ?is maniple1 = su* x is1 0 made out ( scraps ( secul> adornm5ts ( v>i\s dates2 & gives u rem>kable examples ( embroid]y & weav+ at v>i\s p]iods4 ,"o end ( x is figur$ 9 ,dr4 ,bock's 8,ges*i*te d] ,liturgis*5 ,gewnd] des ,mittelalt]s10 #a ,b&1 #b ,lief]ung1 "p vi4 #hbdj1 #hbdj;,a4 ,two ,pieces ( ,silk ,bord]2 r$ purple1 embroid]$ ) mon/]s1 birds1 & scroll patt]ns4 ,to ,no4 #hbdj is atta*$ a portion ( edg+1 embroid]$ 9 gold1 ) ! rude figure ( a sa9t1 on a blue-purple gr\nd4 ,sicilian1 #ac? c5tury4 #hbdj1 #a foot #c in*es by #e in*es2 #hbdj;,a1 #a foot #aa in*es by #b in*es4 ,among ! animals figur$ on ^! pieces may be disc]n$ a wolf passant1 ! fabul\s h]aldic wyv]n1 an eagle display$1 & a /ag4 ,! figure1 h[ev]1 ( ! sa9t1 done 9 gold n[ mu* fad$1 is ( ! #ab? c5tury4 #hbda4 ,piece ( ,tape/ry1 ! w>p cotton1 ! wo( p>tly wool1 p>tly silk2 9 ! c5tre1 a grotesque mask1 connect+ scroll-patt]ns 9 blue1 bord]$ ) ,tyrian purple4 ,sicilian1 late #ab? c5tury4 #a foot #b in*es by #f in*es4 ,?is is a r>e z well z valuable specim5 ( its k9d1 & des]ves att5tion1 n only = ! graceful tw9+s ( its foliage1 b ! happy contra/ ( its col\rs4 #hbdb4 ,portion ( ,gold ,embroid]y1 on r$-purple silk1 ov] a d>k blue cotton gr\nd1 figure ( ,/4 ,&rew )9 an ar*4 ,g]man "w1 #ab? c5tury4 #i in*es by #e in*es4 #hbdc4 ,piece ( ,silk1 d>k ,tyrian purple gr\nd1 ) d>k olive patt]n ( angul> figures1 & circles enclos+ crosses1 compos$ ( f\r he>t-%ap$ ornam5ts4 ,byzant9e1 beg9n+ ( ! #ab? c5tury4 #f in*es by #f in*es4 #hbdc;,a4 ,piece ( ,silk ,bord]1 gr\nd alt]nately lilac1 purple1 & yell[i%1 ) figures ( animals )9 ! spaces ( ! patt]ns2 edg+1 gre54 ,sicilian1 #ac? c5tury4 #c in*es by #a in*4 ,?\gh small1 ?is is a beautiful sample ( textile excell5ce2 on x v>i\s animals are figur$1 ( :i* "o is ! h]aldic wyv]n4 #hbdd1 #hbdd;,a4 ,two ,pieces ( ,crimson1 embroid]$1 9 gold1 ) a scroll-patt]n4 ,sicilian1 #ac? c5tury4 #hbdd1 #f in*es by #b in*es2 #hbdd;,a1 #f in*es by #b in*es4 #hbde4 ,piece ( ,silk ,tissue2 ! gr\nd ( pale purple1 wov5 9 a diap] ) /ripes ( yell[ & blue2 ! patt]n =m$ ( p>rots p]*$ 9 pairs4 ,sicilian1 #ab? c5tury4 #a foot #f in*es by #aj in*es4 ,x is said t ,/4 ,b]n>d1 abbot ( ,clairvaux1 :5 8 grave 0 op5$1 0 f\nd ve/$ 9 a *asuble made ( a /uff mu* l ?is4 #hbde;,a4 ,piece ( ,tissue1 l ! =ego+ 7,no4 #hbde71 ) a c5tre /ripe wov5 ) gold ?read & d>k blue1 & two side-/ripes ) figures ( p>rots4 ,sicilian1 e>ly #ac? c5tury4 ,?\gh seem+ly s slight & insignificant1 ^! two pieces w ri*ly repay a close exam9ation1 exhibit+1 z !y d1 great beauty ( design4 #hbdf4 ,piece ( ,bord]1 ( silk & gold ?read1 pale purple gr\nd1 ) patt]n ( animals & fl[] 787 ornam5t4 ,sicilian 7874 #aj in*es by #a in*es4 ,f age1 ! design ( ! patt]n is s v indi/9ct t x becomes almo/ a puzzle to make x out4 #hbdg4 ,?ree ,pieces ( ,silk1 orange-r$ gr\nd1 ) yell[ patt]n1 app>5tly compos$ 9 "p ( grotesque animals4 ,ori5tal1 #ac? c5tury4 #f in*es by #d in*es2 #c in*es by #b in*es2 #d in*es by #b in*es4 ,?is la/ piece %[s signs ( hav+ be5 wax$1 & probably is ! fragm5t ( a c]e-clo? = ! alt>1 to be plac$ imm$iately on ! /one table1 & "u ! l95 clo?s4 #hbdh4 ,piece ( ,tissue1 wov5 ( silk & l952 gr\nd1 ,tyrian purple1 ) a ,romanesque patt]n 9 :ite4 ,moresco-,spani%1 #ac? c5tury4 ,! design ( ?is specim5 is v effective2 &1 z ! mat]ials ( ?is /uff are poor & some:at co>se1 we may p]ceive t1 ev5 ^u ?+s meant = ord9>y use1 ! m$ival artisans be/[$ mu* c>e 9 ! arrangem5t & sket*+ ( _! patt]ns4 #hbdi4 ,piece ( ,silk2 purple gr\nd1 & yell[i% patt]n 9 loz5ge =ms1 int]sect$ by int]lac$ knots4 ,byzant9e1 end ( ! #ab? c5tury4 #f in*es by #e in*es4 ,! knots 9 ?is piece are some:at l ^? to be f\nd ^u ,anglo-,saxon "w1 9 /one1 & 9 silv] & o!r metals2 & ! loz5ges p[d]$ ) ,greek crosses1 & /opp$ at ea* ( ! f\r corn]s ( ! loz5ge by a ?ree-petal$ fl[] ornam5t--n1 h[ev]1 a fleur-de-lis1--make ?is piece ( /uff rem>kable4 #hbej4 ,piece ( ,broad ,bord] ( ,gold ,tissue1 portion ( a ve/m5t4 ,sicilian1 #ac? c5tury4 #f in*es by #e in*es4 ,?is 0 once "p ( ! orphrey ( "s liturgical g>m5t1 & is figur$ ) lions rampant combatant1 & foliage 9 :i* a cross flory may be discov]$4 #hbej;,a4 ,piece ( ,silk2 gre5 gr\nd1 ) a /ripe diap]$ 9 silv]4 ,byzant9e1 end ( #ab? c5tury4 #d in*es by #b in*es4 ,! design ( ! /ripe n only %[s ! ,/4 ,&rew's cross1 or saltire1 b1 9 its v>iety ( comb9ation1 displays o!r =ms ( ! cross1 t make ?is /uff "o ( ! k9d kn[n among ,greek writ]s z 8/aurac9us0 & 8poly/auria10 & spok5 ( z su* by ,ana/asius ,biblio!c>ius 9 v _m p>ts ( 8 valuable "w4 #hbea4 ,portion ( a ,maniple1 l95 web ) an int]lac$ diamond-%ap$ diap]+1 9 silk4 #ab? c5tury4 ,byzant9e4 #a foot #i in*es by #b in*es4 ,?is curi\s remnant ( textiles1 wr\ght on purpose = liturgical use1 %[s 9 places ano!r comb9ation ( l9es1 or r ( a digamma1 s z to =m a sort ( cross3 & /uffs s diap]$ 7 call$ by ,greek1 & aft] !m by ,lat91 ,*ri/ian writ]s1 8gammadia40 ,x 0 a patt]n tak5 up by ! ,sicilian & ,s\? ,italian looms1 :5ce x spread s f> nor? z ,engl&1 :]e x may be f\nd m>k$ amid ! ornam5ts design$ ^u *ur* ve/m5ts figur$ 9 _m grav5 brasses4 ,f u x got ! new "n ( 8filfod0 ?r\gh ! idea ( 8full foot10 :i* by "s ,engli% m$ival writ]s 0 look$ ^u z an h]aldic *>ge1 & is n[ call$ 8cramponne40 ,dur+ ! #ac? c5tury1 9 ?is c\ntry1 ribbon-l textiles1 = ! express purpose ( mak+ /oles & maniples to be worn at ! alt>1 7 ext5sively wr\ght1 & con/itut$ "o ( ! articles ( trade 9 ,london1 = a di/+ui%$ citiz5 ( h]s1 ,john de ,g>l&ia1 or ,g>l&1 tells u3--8,de textis v]o fiunt c+ula1 et cr9alia divitum muli]um et /ole7ae7 sac]dotum40 ,^! 8prie/s' /oles10 9 all likelihood1 7 figur$ ) ! gammadion or filfod patt]n2 &1 p]haps1 _m ( !m :i* are to be f\nd 9 =eign sacri/ies to ?is day came f ,london4 ,! piece be=e u is figur$ 9 ,dr4 ,bock's 8,ges*i*te d] ,liturgis*5 ,gewnd] des ,mittelalt]s10 #d ,lief]ung1 pt4 iii4 fig4 #c4 #hbeb4 ,piece ( ,silk & ,gold ,tissue1 lilac-purple ) fleur-de-lis diap]+ 9 gold4 ,s\? ,italian1 end ( #ad? c5tury4 #e in*es by #d in*es4 ,?is /uff seems to h be5 made expressly = ,fr5* royalty1 p]haps "s memb] ( ! h\se ( ,anj\4 #hbec4 ,piece ( ,d>k ,blue ,silk1 ) patt]n 9 yell[1 consi/+ ( c5tre ornam5ts surr\nd$ by f\r cr[n$ birds l p>rots4 ,s\? ,italian1 #ad? c5tury4 #i in*es by #g in*es4 #hbed4 ,piece ( ,silk ,net1 embroid]$ ) crosslets & triangul> ornam5ts *>g$ ) *evrons 9 lilac & gre54 ,nor? ,italian1 #ad? c5tury4 #g in*es by #e in*es4 ,?is is a good specim5 ( a k9d ( cobweb weav+1 or 8opus araneum10 = :i* ,lomb>dy1 especially its capital1 ,milan1 e>n$ su* a reputation at "o "t4 #hbee4 ,piece ( ,silk1 crimson gr\nd1 ) patt]n 9 violet & gre51 consi/+ p>tly ( wyv]ns4 ,sicilian1 end ( #ac? c5tury4 #aj in*es by #e in*es4 ,ano!r good specim5 ( ! ,sicilian loom1 & v likely "o ( ^? 8c5dals0 = :i* ,pal]mo 0 once s fam\s4 #hbef4 ,piece ( ,silk1 p9k-buff col\r1 ) patt]n1 9 gre51 ( v9e-leaves & grapes4 ,s\? ,italian1 middle ( #ad? c5tury4 #h in*es by #e in*es4 ,! design ( ?is silk is rem>kably elegant1 & exemplifies ! ability ( ! weav]-draughtsm5 ( ^? times4 #hbeg4 ,piece ( ,crimson ,silk1 damask$ ) a patt]n 9 :i* occur leop>ds & eagles p\nc+ ^u antelopes4 ,sicilian1 end ( #ac? c5tury4 ,! design ( ?is piece ( :at mu/ h be5 su* a beautiful /uff is v skilfully imag9$1 & ! :ole c>ri$ out 9 a spirit$ mann]4 ,! leop>ds are coll>$1 & f ! pres5ce (1 z well z mode ( action 91 ! eagles /oop+ on _! prey1 a ?\ght may cross ! m9d t "s political or p>tisan mean+ is hidd5 "u ^! h]aldic animals4 #hbeh4 ,piece ( ,silk2 gr\nd1 lilac-purple2 patt]n1 9 bright yell[1 compos$ ( /ags1 p>rots1 & peacocks1 amid foliage4 ,italian1 #ad? c5tury4 #aj in*es by #d in*es4 ,a pretty design1 9 *e]ful col\rs1 & a pleas+ example probably ( ! ,lucca loom t[>ds ! close ( ! #ad? c5tury4 #hbei4 ,piece ( ,tissue1 ) hemp w>p & silk wo(2 gr\nd1 d>k blue2 patt]n1 yell[i%1 repres5t+ a tree imp>k$1 ) eagles1 & leop>ds hav+ tails n\$ or ti$ 9 a knot4 ,italian1 e>ly #ae? c5tury4 #a foot #g in*es by #a foot4 ,?\gh some:at elaborate1 ! design ( ?is piece is r heavy4 #hbfj4 ,piece ( ,silk & ,gold ,tissue1 lilac-purple gr\nd1 ) a gre5 patt]n1 %[+ eagles /atant reg>dant1 ) w+s display$4 ,sicilian1 #ad? c5tury4 #g in*es by #d in*es4 ,! design is v good4 #hbfj;,a4 ,piece ( ,silk1 lilac-purple gr\nd ) gre5 patt]n1 & gold wov5 bord]1 exhibit+ an antelope c\rant reg>dant4 ,sicilian1 e>ly #ad? c5tury4 #f in*es by #c in*es4 ,good 9 design4 #hbfj;,b1 ,c4 ,two ,pieces ( ,silk1 gre5 gr\nd & lilac-purple patt]n1 ) dragons & cranes4 ,sicilian1 e>ly #ad? c5tury4 #d in*es by #d in*es2 & #d in*es by #b in*es4 ,a pleas+ design4 #hbfa4 ,portion ( an ,orphrey embroid]$ 9 silk & gold1 ) figures ( two ,apo/les b5ea? crocket$ canopies4 ,g]man1 e>ly #ad? c5tury4 #hbfb4 ,piece ( ,silk1 rose-col\r$ gr\nd1 ) patt]n ( eagles ris+ f trees1 bo? gre51 & wild bea/s spott$ 7p]haps leop>ds7 9 gold1 & lodg$ 9 a p>k1 pal$ gre54 ,s\? ,italian1 #ad? c5tury4 #b feet by #aj in*es4 #hbfc4 ,piece ( ,silk1 rose-col\r$ gr\nd1 patt]n 9 gre5 & gold1 ( two female demi-figures addors$1 ga!r+ date-fruit ) "o h&1 ) ! o!r patt+ a dog rampant & coll>$ ) bells1 & o!r two female demi-figures hold+1 ) "o h&1 a frond ( ! palm-tree out ( :i* !y are issu+1 & ) ! o!r h& clut*+ ! manes ( lions rampant reg>dant & tails n\$4 ,sicilian1 #ad? c5tury4 #a foot #i in*es by #a foot #b in*es4 ,?is valuable & important piece displays an intricate yet well-manag$ & ta/efully arrang$ patt]n4 ,"o mu/ be /ruck ) ! peculi> /yle ( assortm5t ( p9k & gre5 9 its col\rs1 ! some:at sam5ess 9 ! subjects1 & ! arti/ic & h]aldic way 9 :i* ^! silks 7v likely wr\ght at ,pal]mo7 are wov54 ,dr4 ,bock has giv5 a f9e l>ge plate ( ?is /uff 9 8 8,dess9ateur p\r ,et(fes10 c4 ,p>is1 ,morel4 #hbfd4 ,piece ( ,silk & ,gold ,tissue2 ! gr\nd black1 ) patt]n1 9 gold1 ( a ray$ />1 ) eagles /atant & swans naiant 7swimm+7 ^u wat] on a foliat$ scroll4 ,sicilian1 e>ly #ad? c5tury4 #a foot #b in*es by #a foot #a in*es4 ,illu/ration3 #hbfd ,,silk ,,& ,,gold ,,tissue1 ,sicilian1 #ad? c5tury4 ,v9c5t ,brooks ,day ,son1 ,li?4 ,! design ( ?is piece is z easy & fl[+ z x is bold2 & ! specim5 af=ds u a v *oice example ( f9e manufacture4 #hbfe4 ,piece ( ,l95 & ,silk ,textile2 ! gr\nd1 d>k blue2 ! patt]n1 yell[1 consi/+ ( arcades b5ea? :i* are r[s ( p>rots & hawks alt]nately1 bo? g>dant1 & p]*$ ^u a v9e2 ! initial ,m surm\nt$ by a cr[n or fleur-de-lis 9 gold ?read is ins]t$ 9 ! alt]nate range ( ar*es4 ,s\!rn ,spani%1 late #ad? c5tury4 #a foot #f in*es by #aj in*es4 ,illu/ration3 #hbfe ,,l95 ,,& ,,silk ,,textile1 ,spani%1 #ad? c5tury4 ,v9c5t ,brooks ,day ,son1 ,li?4 ,z a specim5 ( ! ,&alusian loom1 & wr\ght by ,*ri/ian h&s1 p]haps at ,granada1 :ile t "p ( ,spa9 0 "u ,moori% rule1 ?is piece has a peculi> int]e/ ab\t x4 #hbff4 ,maniple1 embroid]$ 9 silk1 inscrib$ 9 ,go?ic lett]s ) 8,gratia pl5a ,dom 4440 ,g]man1 end ( #ad? c5tury4 #c feet #aj in*es by #b in*es4 #hbfg4 ,piece ( ,tissue1 ( cotton w>p1 ( silk & gold wo(1 ) patt]n ( birds & /ags amid foliat$ ornam5tation4 ,spani%1 #ad? c5tury4 #hbfh4 ,piece ( ,silk & ,gold ,tissue2 ! gr\nd1 lilac-purple2 ! patt]n 9 gold1 symmetrically arrang$ & p>tly compos$ ( birds1 ^u :i* h\nds are spr++4 ,sicilian1 #ad? c5tury4 #b feet #c in*es by #aa in*es4 ,a v effective & well-execut$ design4 #hbfi4 ,piece ( ,silk2 gr\nd1 blue1 diap]$ 9 yell[ ) mullets ( eight po9ts & eight-petal$ fl[]s1 )9 loz5ges4 ,sicilian1 e>ly #ae? c5tury4 #f in*es by #d in*es4 #hbfi;,a4 ,piece ( ,silk & ,cotton ,bord]2 gr\nd1 crimson1 n[ mu* fad$2 patt]n1 a diap] ( ! fleur-de-lis )9 a loz5ge1 bo? yell[2 ! /uff :i* x edg$ has a deep blue gr\nd p[d]$ ) fleurs-de-lis1 & eight-petal$ fl[]s )9 loz5ges1 bo? yell[4 ,s\? ,italian1 late #ac? c5tury4 #d in*es by #b in*es4 ,?\gh f its patt]n we may assume t ?is /uff 0 made = ! requirem5t ( ! ,sicilian ,anj\ family or "o ( its adh]5ts1 ! poorness ( its mat]ials =bids u f ?9k+ x c\ld h s]v$ = any o!r ?an common use4 #hbgj4 ,piece ( ,silk & ,gold ,tissue2 patt]n1 consi/+ ( diap] & leaves int]sp]s$ ) small circles1 )9 ea* ( :i* is a conv5tional fl[] exp&$4 ,s\? ,italian1 #ad? c5tury4 #aa in*es by #aj in*es4 #hbga4 ,piece ( ,silk1 ) portions ( ! patt]n 9 gold2 gr\nd1 gre51 on :i* are p>rots 787 & little dogs1 amid a spr9kl+ ( quatrefoils4 ,sicilian1 beg9n+ ( #ad? c5tury4 #aj in*es by #d in*es4 #hbgb4 ,piece ( ,silk & ,gold ,tissue2 gr\nd1 gre52 ! patt]n 9 gold seems to h be5 divid$ by b>s1 & consi/s ( an int]lac$ knot1 on :i* re/ birds4 ,s\!rn ,spani%1 e>ly #ad? c5tury4 #h in*es by #d in*es4 ,! knots 9 ?is piece are some:at l our own ,b\*i] "o2 b ! f\r ends ( ! ,engli% badge are n %[n 9 ?is ,&alusian ornam5t1 p]haps meant to be really an h]aldic *>ge peculi> to ,spani% blazon4 #hbgc4 ,piece ( ,silk2 gr\nd1 lilac-purple2 patt]n1 yell[1 diap]$ ) cresc5ts1 )9 ! horns ( :i* are two v small wyv]ns addors$4 ,sicilian1 late #ac? c5tury4 #g in*es by #d in*es4 ,! design is s indi/9ct t x requires "t to unpuzzle x4 #hbgd4 ,portion ( an ,orphrey1 embroid]$ on p>*m5t ) glass1 coral1 gold beads1 & se$ pe>ls1 hav+ also small bosses & ornam5ts 9 silv]-gilt4 ,! gr\nd is d>k blue1 on :i* is figur$ ! ,b4 ,v4 ,m>y nimb$ & cr[n$ )9 an oblong aureole t]m9at$ by scrolls end+ 9 trefoils & c9quefoils4 ,v5etian1 late #ab? c5tury4 ,t ?is curi\s & elaborate piece ( bead embroid]y mu/ h be5 "p ( an orphrey = a *asuble1 & n a maniple1 is evid5t f ! po9t$ %ape 9 :i* x ends4 ,f its /yle1 & ! quantity ( v small beads & bugles :i* we see ^u x1 x w\ld seem to h be5 wr\ght ei!r at ,v5ice itself1 9 "s ( its ma9l& dep5d5cies1 or 9 ,l[] ,/yria4 ,!n1 z n[1 ! ,v5etian isl& ( ,murano wr\ght & c>ri$ on a l>ge trade 9 beads ( all k9ds2 & ! silv]smi?'s craft 0 9 high repute at ,v5ice4 ,f9d+1 !n1 ?is remnant ( a liturgical ve/m5t s pl5tifully adorn$ ) beads1 bugles1 & coral1 besides be+ s dott$ ) little specks ( gold1 & spr9kl$ ) s _m small b nicely work$ silv]-gilt />s1 we are w>rant$ 9 tak+ ?is embroid]y to h be5 wr\ght some:]e 9 ,nor? ,ea/ ,italy or ,s\? ,we/ ,g]many1 ^u ! bord]s ( ! ,adriatic4 ,^? fond ( ecclesia/ical symbolism w look ^u ?is old piece ( ne$lework ) no small int]e/1 & obs]ve t x 0 by int5tion t ! gr\nd 0 blue4 ,x is figur$ 9 ,dr4 ,bock's 8,ges*i*te d] ,liturgis*5 ,gewnd] ,mittelalt]s10 #a ,b&1 #b ,lief]ung1 pt4 x4 s4 #bge4 #hbge4 ,piece ( ,l95 ,tissue1 ) patt]n wov5 9 gold2 ! design consi/s ( b&s curv+ to a some:at loz5ge =m & inclos+ an ornam5t compos$ ( int]sect+ circles ) a ?ree-po9t$ or petal$ k9d ( conv5tional fl[] 7n a fleur-de-lis7 radiat+ f ! c5tre4 ,sicilian1 #ad? c5tury4 #e in*es by #d in*es4 #hbgf4 ,piece ( ,silk2 gr\nd1 p9ki% purple2 patt]n 9 d>k blue1 or r gre51 divid$ by f\r-sid$ comp>tm5ts & =m$ ( conv5tional fl[]s & salam&]s1 ! bord]s ( a runn+ design4 ,sicilian1 #ad? c5tury4 #aj in*es by #f in*es4 ,mo/ likely wov5 at ,pal]mo1 b no good sample ( dye+1 z ! col\rs h evid5tly *ang$2 :at is n[ a p9ki% purple hue 0 ( a light *e]ful crimson tone1 & ! d>k blue patt]n mu/ h orig9ally be5 a w>m gre54 #hbgg4 ,piece ( ,crimson ,silk & ,gold ,tissue2 ! patt]n1 9 gold1 ( conv5tional ornam5ts & circles conta9+ birds & animals2 ! bord] consi/s ( a repetition ( a wyv]n1 an eagle display$1 & an elephant & ca/le4 ,italian1 e>ly #ad? c5tury4 #aa in*es by #d in*es4 ,?is f9e co/ly specim5 ( old silk5 /uff _c fail 9 draw+ to itself a p>ticul> att5tion f ! he$ful obs]v]1 by its gracefully elaborate design1 s well c>ri$ out & done 9 su* ri* mat]ials1 b m especially by ! symbols figur$ on x4 ,?\gh n[ unable to read or und]/& ! mean+ ( all ^? emblematic h9ts s indi/9ctly utt]$ 9 its curi\s bord]1 made up1 z x is1 ( a wyv]n1 a /ork emb[$ & /atant on an elephant & ca/le1 & a display$ eagle1 we hopefully ?9k t1 at no f>-(f day1 ! key to x all w be f\nd2 !n1 p]haps1 ! piece be=e u1 & _m o!r su* textiles 9 ?is v collection1 may turn out to be no little help to "s future writ] :ile unravell+ sev]al entanglem5ts 9 m$ival hi/ory4 ,n = a s+le mom5t c we admit t ?r\gh ^! h]aldic bea/s & birds ! slighte/ ref]5ce 0 int5d$ to be made to ! f\r elem5ts2 heav5 or ! air1 e>? or its productions1 fire & wat]1 7 q o!rwise symboliz$ by arti/s dur+ ! middle ages1 z we may see 9 ! nielli on a sup]-alt> describ$ & figur$ 9 ! 8,*ur* ( ,our ,fa!rs10 t4 i4 p4 #beg4 #hbgh4 ,a ,,s9don or k9d ( ,frontal1 ( ,crimson ,silk1 on a l95 or canvas l9+1 embroid]$ 9 silk & silv] ?read1 ) a l>ge figure ( our ,"l dead1 two /&+ angels1 &1 at ea* ( its f\r corn]s1 a half-l5g? figure ( an evangeli/2 ! :ole enclos$ 9 a bord] inscrib$ ) ,sclavonic *>act]s4 ,ru!nic "w1 middle ( #ag? c5tury4 #d feet #f in*es by #b feet #aj in*es4 ,9 ! c5tre ( ?is curi\s ecclesia/ical embroid]y 7= spread+ outside ! *ancel1 at ! end ( ,holy ,week1 among ! ,greek17 our dead ,"l1 ) ! usual inscription1 ,,ic1 ,,xc1 ov] ,him1 is figur$ ly+ full l5g?1 /ret*$ out1 z x 71 ^u a slab ( /one :i* a %eet ov]spreads4 ,8 arms are at ,8 sides z f> z ! elb[s1 :]e !y b5d s t ,8 h&s may be fold$ d[nw>d cross-wise ^u ,8 /oma*1 f :i*1 to ,8 knees1 ,8 lo9s are wrapp$ 9 a v full-fold$ clo? done 9 silv] ?read1 b n[ ne>ly black f age4 ,8 sk9 is q :ite1 ,8 hair & be>d ( a light br[n col\r1 & ,8 "r side1 ,8 h&s & feet are m>k$ ea* ) a blood-r$ w\nd2 & ! embroid]y ( ,8 p]son is s manag$ z to display1 9 some:at high relief1 ! holl[s & elevations ( ! body's surface2 all ar\nd & b5ea? ,8 head goes a nimbus m>k$ inside ) a cross v slightly pattee1 ! :ole nicely diap]$ & once bright silv]1 b n[ q black4 ,two nimb$ angels1 be>dless &1 9 look1 q y\?ful1 are /&+1 "o at ,8 head1 ! o!r at ,8 feet1 ea*1 l ! o!r1 ve/$1 z is ! deacon at ! pres5t day1 = mass1 accord+ to ! ,greek & ,ori5tal rites2 !y we> ! 8*itonion0 or alb1 ov] t ! 8/oi*>ion0 or dalmatic1 & f ! "r--?\gh x %\ld h be5 f ! left--%\ld] falls ! 8or>ion0 or /ole1 ^u :i* ! ,greek ^w 8agios10 or holy1 is repeat$1 j z a ,greek deacon is %[n 9 8,hi]urgia10 p4 #cde2 9 8 "r h& ea* holds ext5d$ ov] our ,"l1 exactly z ,greek deacons n[ d1 at ! alt>1 aft] ! consecration ( ! ,holy ,eu*>i/1 a long w&1 at ! end ( :i* is a l>ge r\nd six-petal$ fl[]-l ornam5t1 hav+ )9 x a *]ub's six-w+$ face2 ?is is ! holy fan1 conc]n+ :i* see ! 8,*ur* ( our ,fa!rs10 iv4 #aig2 & ea* has 8 left h& s rais$ up "u 8 *9 z to seem+ly af=d a re/ = x4 ,at ea* ( ! f\r corn]s ( ! frontal is ! bu/ ( an evangeli/ ) a nimb ab\t 8 head2 9 ! upp] left1 8,agios o ,!ologos10 = s ! ,greeks /ill call ,/4 ,john ! ,evangeli/3 9 ! l[] left1 ,/4 ,luke2 9 ! upp] "r1 ,/4 ,mat!w2 9 ! l[] "r1 ,/4 ,m>k2 ea* is be>d$1 & ! hair1 :e!r on ! head or *91 is %[n 9 blue & :ite z ( an ag$ man4 ,:ile ! heads & faces ( all f\r evangeli/s are r$1 ) ! features di/+ui%$ by :ite l9es1 ! angels h :ite faces & _! hair is deep r$ ) /rokes 9 :ite to indicate ! curly wav+s ( _! locks4 ,!re are two crosses1 r pattee1 done 9 silv] ?read1 measur+ #b in*es1 "o above1 ! o!r bel[ our ,"l1 9 ! middle ( ! gr\nd1 :i* is crimson1 & wr\ght all ov] ) gracefully tw9$ fl[]-be>+ bran*es2 & ea* evangeli/ is %ut 9 by a qu>t]-circle bord] *>m+ly work$ ) a wrea? ( leaves q *>act]i/ic ( our #ac? c5tury "w4 ,all ! drap]ies1 inscriptions1 & ornam5tation1 n[ look+ s black1 7 orig9ally wr\ght 9 silv] ?read t is ?us t>ni%$ by age4 ,among ! liturgical r>ities 9 ?is ext5sive & preci\s collection ( ne$lework1 n ! lea/ is ! pres5t ,russo-,greek 8s9don10 or ritual w9d+-%eet1 us$ 9 a portion ( ! ,ea/]n ,*ur* s]vice on ! ,great ,friday & ,great ,saturday1 z ! ,ori5tals call our ,good ,friday & ,holy ,saturday4 ,! col\r itself--purpli% crimson--( ! silk gr\nd ^u :i* our ,"l's dead body lies1 z x 71 out/ret*$ ^u ! w9d+-%eet 9 ! grave1 is n )\t a symbolic mean+1 = among/ ! ,greeks1 up to a late p]iod1 ( su* a t9t 7 inv>iably ! g>m5ts & ! /uffs employ$ on e occasion any wise connect$ ) ! dead1 ?\gh n[1 l ! ,lat9s1 ! ,muscovites at lea/ use black = all su* functions4 ,all ar\nd ! f\r bord]s ( ?is s9don are wr\ght 9 gold5 ?read1 n[ mu* t>ni%$1 s5t5ces ( ,greek1 b writt51 z ! practice is among ! ,sclaves1 9 ! ,cyrillian "*1 ?us nam$ f ,/4 ,cyrill1 ! monk1 :o inv5t$ t alphabet a ?\s& ye>s ago1 z "o ( ! helps = himself & 8 bro!r ,/4 ,me?odius1 9 tea*+ ,*ri/ianity to ! _m tribes ( ! widely-spread ,sclavonian p1 z we notic$ 9 our ,introduction1 #e4 ,beg9n+ at ! "r-h& side1 f t portion ( ! silk be+ some:at torn1 ! words are n q :ole1 b ^? t c be read1 say ?us3--8,pray = ! s]vant ( ,god1 ,nicolaus4444& 8 *ildr54 ,am520 "h1 no d\bt1 we h ! donor's "n1 & ! exact "t itself ( ?is pi\s gift 0 put d[n1 b ow+ to ! /uff be+1 at ?is place too1 worn away1 ! date is some:at oblit]at$1 b seems to be ! ye> #afde4 ,all ! o!r s5t5ces are borr[$ f ! ,greek ritual-book kn[n z ! or ,horologium1 9 ! s]vice = ! aft]noon on ,good ,friday & ,holy ,saturday4 ,along ! l[] bord] runs ?is 8trop>ion10 or v]sicle3-- 1 4 8,! comely ,joseph 7( ,arima!a7 hav+ tak5 d[n f ! wood 7( ! cross7 ! spotless body ( ,!e 7,o ,jesus71 & hav+ wrapp$ x up 9 a clean w9d+-%eet toge!r ) aromatics1 tak+ ^u himself to af=d x a becom+ burial1 laid x 9 a new grave40 ,^u ! left h& side comes ?is v]sicle3-- 1 3 1 -- 4 4 8,see+ at ! grave ! wom5 :o 7 c>ry+ p]fumes1 ! ,angel cri$ out1 #8,! o9tm5ts fitt+ 7to be us$ 9 ! burial7 = mortal be+s are ly+ "h1 b ,*ri/1 hav+ und]gone dea?1 has %[n ,himself 7aga97 aft] ano!r =m4'0 ,accord+ to ! rite foll[$ by ! ,russians & ,greeks1 on ! aft]noon ( ,good ,friday1 z well z t ( ,holy ,saturday1 a s9don or liturgical w9d+-%eet1 figur$ j l ! "o be=e u1 is br\ght into ! middle ( ! *ur*1 & plac$ outside ! sanctu>y1 s t x may be easily v5]at$ by all ! p 9 turn4 ,fir/ come ! cl]gy1 mak+1 z !y sl[ly advance1 _m l[ & solemn b[s1 & b5d+s ( ! :ole p]son4 ,rea*+ ! s9don1 ea* "o kisses ) great devotion ! =ehead ( our ,"l1 & ! place ( ! w\nds 9 ,8 side1 ,8 h&s1 & feet4 ,!n foll[ ! congregation1 e "o approa*+ 9 ! same rev]5tial mann]1 & go+ ?r\gh ! same c]emonial l ! cl]gy2 all ?is :ile are be+ sung1 along ) o!r v]sicles1 ! ones embroid]$ r\nd ?is piece ( ne$lework4 ,b ?is is n all1 at lea/ 9 "s prov9ces :]e ! ,greek ritual obta9s4 ,z soon z x is d>k on ,good ,friday ev5+1 ^u a fun]al bi] is laid ! figure ( our ,"l1 ei!r wr\ght 9 l[ relief1 pa9t$ on wood or canvas1 or %[n 9 ne$lework l ?is s9don4 ,lift$ up & borne =w>ds1 x is surr\nd$ by a cr[d c>ry+ lights4 ,!n foll[ ! prie/s ve/$ 9 *asubles & ! re/ ( ! g>m5ts prop] = mass2 aft] !m walk ! l[] cl]gy1 & ! lay-folks ( ! place come la/4 ,!n ! procession goes all ?r\gh & ab\t ! /reets ( ! t[n1 s++ ! cxviii? ,psalm1 ! 8,beati immaculati 9 via10 c4 ( ! ,vulgate1 or cxix? ( ! au?oriz$ v]sion1 betwe5 ea* v]se ( :i* is *ant$ a v]sicle f ! ,horologium4 ,ev]y:]e ! populace b[ d[n z ! bi] comes by1 & _m times x halts t !y may kiss ! figure ( our dead ,savi\r1 ^: image is ov]spread by ! fl[]s spr9kl$ ^u x z x is c>ri$ pa/1 & aft]w>ds ^! same fl[]s are eag]ly s\ght = by ! cr[d1 :o set mu* /ore by !m z ! br+]s ( heal? to _! bodies & a bless+ on _! home/eads all ! aft] ye>4 ,n[ x %\ld be obs]v$ t1 ev5 9 ! pres5t piece1 :at is ! real s9don or :ite l95 w9d+-%eet %[n op5 & spread out q flat b5ea? our ,"l's body1 is put ^u a m\rn+ pall ( r$ silk1 :i* is work$ all ov] ) fl[]s1 d\btless 9 allusion to ?is v cu/om ( %[]+ d[n ^u x fl[]s z x is c>ri$ by4 ,v l1 9 "p1 to ! ,greek c]emony1 is ! ,lat9 rite /ill foll[$ on ,good ,friday ( kiss+ ! crucifix z x lies ^u a cu%ion on ! /eps go+ up to ! alt>1 & kn[n ( old 9 ,engl& z creep+ to ! cross1 ! ritual = :i* among ! ,anglo-,saxons1 z well z lat]1 accord+ to ! use ( ,salisbury1 may be se5 9 ! 8,*ur* ( ,our ,fa!rs10 t4 iv4 pp4 #hh1 #bda4 ,^? :o h travell$ 9 ! ,ea/1 or 9 c\ntries :]e ! ,greek rite is foll[$1 may h obs]v$ t1 almo/ always1 ! cupola ( ! l>g] *ur*es is pa9t$ ) ! celebration ( ! ,div9e ,liturgy2 & among ! cr[d ( p]sonages !re9 %[n are usually six angels rev]5tly be>+ "o ( ^! s-figur$ s9dons1 z 0 notic$ 9 ! ,introduction1 #e4 #hbgi4 ,portion ( an ,orphrey = a ,*asuble2 bord] wov5 9 silk1 ) a v>i\s-col\r$ diap]+4 ,g]man1 late #ad? c5tury4 #c feet4 ,su* textiles 7= !y are n embroid]ies7 z ^! 7 evid5tly wr\ght to s]ve z ! orphreys = liturgical g>m5ts ( a less co/ly "*1 & made1 z ?is example is1 out ( ?read z well z silk1 fa%ion$ aft] a simple type ( patt]n4 #hbgi;,a4 ,l95 ,napk91 = a ,crozi]2 ( v f9e l951 & v>i\s embroid]ies4 ,g]man1 late #ad? c5tury4 #b feet #aj in*es by #f feet4 ,su* napk9s are v great liturgical curiosities1 z ! pres5t "o1 & ano!r 9 ?is collection1 are ! only specim5s kn[n 9 ?is c\ntry2 & p]haps su* ano!r c\ld n be f\nd on any "p ( ! ,cont95t1 ! employm5t ( !m hav+ be5 = a v long "t ev]y:]e left (f4 ,its top1 l a high circul>-head$ cap1 #d in*es by #d in*es1 is m>k$ ) a diap]+1 on "o side loz5gy1 on ! o!r *ecky1 gr\nd crimson1 & fill$ 9 ) ! gammadion or filfot 9 "o =m or ano!r4 ,on ! loz5ges ?is gammadion is p>ti-col\r$1 gre51 yell[1 :ite1 purple2 9 ! *ecks1 all gre51 yell[1 :ite1 & purple4 ,curi\sly en\gh1 ! piece ( vellum us$ z a /iff5+ = ?is cap is a piece ( an old manuscript ab\t "s loan1 & be>s ! date ( ! ye> #abef4 ,! slit up ! middle ( ! l951 #aa in*es long1 is bord]$ on bo? edges ) a l95 wov5 lace1 #a in*es broad1 embroid]$ on "o side ( ! slit ) ,l1 "o ( ! =ms ( ! gammadion2 on ! o!r ) ! saltire1 or ,/4 ,&rew's cross2 ! gammadion & saltire are wr\ght 9 purple1 gre51 crimson 7fad$71 or yell[1 ea* ( "o col\r1 & n mix$1 z 9 "o "p ( ! cap4 ,^! two edg+s br\ght toge!r1 & ?us runn+ up = ! space ( #f in*es1 are /opp$ by a piece ( wov5 silk lace1 #c in*es by #b in*es1 & figur$ ) ! filfot or gammadion4 ,! l95 is v f9e1 & ( t k9d :i*1 9 ! middle ages1 0 call$ 8bissus20 t5t-l 9 %ape1 & clos$1 x hung 9 full folds4 ,its gold & silk5 cords1 ( v>i\s col\rs1 z well z ^? l>ge well-platt$ knobs ( silk & gold by :i* x 0 /rung to ! upp] "p ( ! crozi]1 are all q p]fect2 & an acc\nt ( ?is ornam5t is giv5 9 ! 8,*ur* ( ,our ,fa!rs10 t4 ii4 p4 #baj4 ,dr4 ,bock has giv5 a figure ( ! pres5t "o 9 8 8,ges*i*te d] ,liturgis*5 ,gewnd] des ,mittelalt]s10 #d ,lief]ung1 pl4 xiv4 fig4 i2 & ano!r specim5 w be f\nd "h1 ,no4 #hffb4 #hbhj4 ,piece ( ,net1 ( co>se l95 ?read1 ) an int]lac$ loz5ge patt]n1 & a bord]4 ,v likely ,g]man1 #af? c5tury4 #c feet #aj in*es by #c feet #h in*es4 ,^? :o amuse !mselves by nett+ w f9d 9 ?is specim5 a good example to foll[1 bo? 9 design & accurate execution4 ,x mu/ h be5 wr\ght = dome/ic1 & n = ,*ur* use4 #hbha4 ,portion ( an ,orphrey1 9 r$ & purple silk1 figur$ 9 gold1 ) a fleur-de-lis1 inscriptions1 & armorial be>+s4 ,g]man1 late #ae? c5tury4 #ab in*es by #b in*es4 ,?is piece is wov5 ?r\gh\t1 & ! lett]s1 z well z ! h]aldry1 are ! "w1 n ( ! ne$le1 b ( ! %uttle4 ,on a field gules is %[n a fleur-de-lis arg5t1 :i* device1 n be+ ^u a %ield1 may h be5 meant = a badge4 ,on a field or is a cross purpure1 & ov] x1 ano!r cross ( ! field4 ,?\gh ! words giv5 may possibly be int5d$ to read 8,pete allia 7alia710 !re are difficulties 9 s tak+ !m4 ,x is imag9$ t ^! h]aldic be>+s ref] to ! ar*iepiscopal sees & *apt]s ( ,cologne & ,treves4 #hbhb4 ,piece ( ,silk5 & ,l95 ,texture4 ,^u a yell[ ?read gr\nd are figur$1 9 gre5 silk1 trees1 f ! l[] "r side ( :i* d>ts d[n a p5cil ( sunbeams1 & j ov] ^! rays /& birds l cockatoos or hoopoes1 & six-petal$ fl[]s & eagles /oop+1 bo? once 9 gold1 n[ dimm$2 ! fl[]s & eagles well rais$ above ! re/ ( ! design4 ,made 9 ,nor? ,italy1 dur+ ! middle ( ! #ad? c5tury4 ,:5 bright & fre%1 ?is /uff mu/ h be5 v effective2 & a play ( light c\ld n fail 9 well %[+ (f its gold5 eagles & fl[]s1 t are made to /& out some:at boldly amid ! gre5 foliage ( ! trees4 #hbhc4 ,piece ( ,lilac-purple ,silk1 ) a delicate diap]+ ( v9e-bran*es & birds4 ,italian1 late #ad? c5tury4 ,?\gh ev]y?+ is small 9 ! design ( ?is piece1 x is rem>kably pleas+4 ,! way 9 :i* ! b\ghs are tw9$ is q graceful1 & ! foliage v good4 #hbhd4 ,piece ( ,light ,crimson ,silk & ,gold ,tissue4 ,?is small bit ( a l>ge patt]n %[s a cre/$ bird pluck+ a bell-%ap$ fl[]4 ,italian1 e>ly #ae? c5tury4 ,un=tunately ?is scrap is s small z n to exhibit en\gh ( ! orig9al design to let u "k :at x 02 b1 to judge by ! ends ( "s w+s1 we h be=e u suffici5t to see t1 :5 entire1 x mu/ h consi/$ ( l>ge birds1 & h be5 bold & tell+4 #hbhe4 ,piece ( ,light ,crimson ,silk & ,gold ,tissue2 ! patt]n is a diap]+1 all 9 gold1 =m$ ( a tree ) a lioness sejant reg>dant b5ea? x1 & a bird alight+ on a fl[]1 ! c5tre ( :i* is spott$ ) /am5s ( blue silk4 ,nor? ,italian1 beg9n+ ( ! #ae? c5tury4 ,?is specim5 is valuable bo? = its ri* mat]ials & ! effective way 9 :i* ! design is br\ght out4 #hbhf4 ,piece ( ,d>k ,purple ,silk & ,silv] ,tissue1 reliev$ ) crimson ?r[n up 9 v small portions4 ,! patt]n is a bold diap]+ ( grotesque animals & birds1 toge!r ) inscriptions affect+ to be 9 ,arabic4 ,v likely f ! ,s\? ( ,spa91 at ! beg9n+ ( ! #ae? c5tury4 #bd in*es by #ai in*es4 ,alike conspicu\s = ! ri*ness ( mat]ials1 z = ! exub]ance 9 its design1 ?is specim5 des]ves p>ticul> att5tion4 ,spott$ leop>ds & %aggy-hair$ dogs1 all coll>$1 & sep>at$ by bundles ( :eat-e>s2 birds ( prey look+ f out ! foliage1 hoopoes peck+ at a human face1 dragon-l snakes gracefully convolut$ amid a ,moori% k9d ( ornam5tation1 & imitat$ ,arabic lett]s /rung toge!r )\t a mean+1 %[ t ! h& ( ! ,*ri/ian workman 0 guid$ some:at by ,s>ac5ic tea*+s1 or wr\ght "u ! set purpose ( pass+ (f 8 "w z ( ,ori5tal produce4 ,b 9 ?is1 z 9 s _m o!r examples1 a /rong lik+ = h]aldry is display$ by ^? pairs ( w+s conjo9$ & elevat$1 9 ! "o in/ance eagle's1 9 ! o!r wyv]n's4 #hbhg4 ,piece ( ,silk & ,gold ,tissue1 on a r$ gr\nd2 a design 9 gre51 reliev$ by b&s ( scroll-patt]n1 ) an eagle's head & neck 9 gold & fl[]s 9 :ite & d>k purple4 ,sicilian1 #ae? c5tury4 #ab in*es by #ab in*es4 ,:5 new ?is tissue mu/ h be5 v %[y1 b n[ ! :ole ( its patt]n is some:at difficult to trace out4 ,! way 9 :i* ! l>ge eagle's head & neck are giv51 re/+ ^u a broad-scroll$ b>1 is r s+ul>2 s1 too1 is ! li/+ or bord]1 on "o side *>g$ ) a small b ri* ornam5tation1 amid :i* may be detect$ "s eaglets4 #hbhh4 ,piece ( ,silk & ,gold ,tissue1 ! gr\nd ( :i* is gold b&$ ) patt]ns 9 blue1 r$1 & gre51 divid$ by n>r[$ /ripes ( black2 on "o gold5 b& is an ,arabic ^w repeat$ all ?r\gh ! design4 ,syrian4 #af in*es by #af in*es4 ,! value ( ?is f9e ri* specim5 w be in/antly appreciat$ :5 x is borne 9 m9d t x is "o ( ! few kn[n examples ( real ,s>ac5ic weav+ :i* we h4 ,its ornam5tation has ab\t x1 9 ! *eck]$ & circul> portions ( its design1 mu* ( t feel+ :i* %[s itself 9 ,s>ac5ic ar*itecture2 & ^? :o rememb] ! c\rt ( lions1 9 ! ,alhambra at ,granada1 w n be surpris$ at see+ animals figur$ ^u ?is piece ( /uff s freely4 ,! broad b&s are sep>at$ by v n>r[ black ones1 on :i* are %[n1 9 gold1 %ort l5g?s ( ?ick foliage l /rawb]ry-leaves1 & an animal1 :i*1 f ! tuft ( hair on its e>s1 seems a lynx1 *as$ by ! hunt+-leop>d1 ( :i* our celebrat$ travell+ c\ntryman1 ,sir ,john ,m&eville1 9 8 8,voiage10 writt5 9 ! reign ( ,edw>d ,,iii1 speaks ?us3 8,9 ,cipre m5 hunt5 ) ,papyonns t b5 ly*e ,lep>des1 & !i tak5 wylde be/es righte welle & !i b5 som$elle m ?an ,lyonns2 & !i tak5 m s*>pely ! be/es & m delyv]ly ?an don h\ndes40 ,ed4 ,halliwell1 p4 #bi4 ,?is sort ( leop>d1 ! claws ( :i* are n1 l ! re/ ( its k9d1 retractile1 is1 to ?is day1 employ$ 9 ,asia1 m especially 9 ! ,ea/ ,indies1 l dogs = hunt+1 & kn[n by ! "n ( 8,*eetah40 ,ea* ( ^! l5g?s is /udd$ ) ^? knots1 f\nd s (t5 ^u ea/]n w>es ( all sorts1 & =m$ by n>r[ ribbons int]lac+ "o ano!r at "r angles s z to produce squ>es or *ecks2 ^! knots are alt]nately l>ge--( ?ree r[s ( *ecks1 & small--( two r[s4 ,^u "o ( ! l>ge b&s1 gold 9 its gr\nd1 is1 all along x1 wov5 a s5t5ce 9 ,arabic lett]s 9 dusky :ite1 ( :i* t9t is ! circul> ornam5t :i* ev]y:]e /&s betwe5 ?is writ+2 v likely ^! *>act]s1 z well z ! divid+ fl[]1 7 once ( a crimson col\r1 :i* is n[ fad$4 ,! inscrib$ s5t5ce itself be+ figur$ )\t ! di/9ctive po9ts1 may be und]/ood v>i\s ways4 ,t x is "s well-kn[n ,ori5tal say+ or prov]b is v likely1 &1 to haz>d a guess1 reads ?us3 8,injury1 hurt1 reception10--mean+1 p]haps1 t ! individual :o has done y1 beh9d y\r back1 all ! h>m he c1 may1 :5 next he meets y1 utt] ! greet+s & put on all ! looks ( fri5d%ip4 ,su* 0 its mean+1 z read by ! late lam5t$ ,ori5tal s*ol>1 ,dr4 ,cureton4 ,^u ! next broad b&1 on a gr\nd once crimson1 are figur$1 9 gold1 ! be=e-m5tion$ 8papyonns10 or hunt+-leop>ds1 coll>$ & 9 a sitt+ position "u foliage1 swans swimm+1 & an animal ( ! gazelle or antelope g5us1 h]aldically lodg$ reg>dant1 ) a fl[]-be>+ /em 9 its m\?1 & ano!r animal n easily id5tifi$4 ,! rema9+ two broad b&s1 "o blue1 ! o!r gre51 are figur$1 9 gold1 ) squ>es fill$ up by *ecks ( an ,ori5tal "*1 alt]nat+ ) quatrefoils spr\t+ all ov] into fl[]s4 #hbhi4 ,piece ( ,silk & ,gold ,tissue2 ! gr\nd1 lilac2 ! patt]n1 gre5 & :ite1 ( fl[]s1 b5ea? :i* c\* two animals1 & "u !m /& two eagles4 ,italian or ,sicilian1 late #ad? c5tury4 #ae in*es by #ae in*es4 ,"o ( ^? well-balanc$ designs ?r[n (f s freely by ! looms ( ,italy & ,sicily dur+ ! :ole ( ! #ad? c5tury4 ,:at ^? two animals coll>$1 c\*ant & addors$ reg>dant1 may be meant = x is h>d to imag9e4 ,rays1 l ^? f ! sun1 d>t d[n b5ea? ^! dog-l creatures1 & look+ upw>d to ^? beams /& two eagles4 ,"s ( ! fl[]s & ! two animals are wr\ght 9 gold4 #hbij4 ,piece ( ,silk2 gr\nd1 d>k blue2 patt]n1 yell[1 9 zigzag arabesque4 ,moori% "w ( ! ,s\? ( ,spa91 #ad? c5tury4 #ab in*es by #h in*es4 ,?\gh ( su* simple elem5ts 9 its design1 ?is ,moresco /uff is n unpleas+4 #hbia1 #hbia;,a4 ,two ,pieces ( ,silk & ,gold ,tissue1 hav+ a patt]n 9 b&s diap]$ ) arabesques1 birds1 & animals4 ,syrian1 #ad? c5tury4 #e in*es by #d in*es1 & #e in*es by #c in*es4 ,al?\gh b m]e rags1 ^! two specim5s are int]e/+4 ,!y tell1 ( _! c\ntry & "t1 by ! managem5t ( _! design1 & h a ne> relation%ip to ! specim5 ,no4 #hbhh4 #hbib4 ,piece ( ,silk2 gr\nd1 r$ ) patt]n1 9 violet1 ( v9e-leaves1 conv5tional foliage1 & animals4 ,sicilian1 e>ly #ad? c5tury4 #ab in*es by #f in*es4 ,?is v pretty produce ( ! ,italian loom1 l ,no4 #hbhc1 comm5ds itself to our admiration by ! graceful mann] 9 :i* ! design is c>ri$ out4 ,?\gh small 9 its p>ts1 ! patt]n is attractive4 ,^? /ags1 tripp+ & %[+ heads well attir$1 are n uncommon1 ab\t ! p]iod1 ^u /uffs1 b ^? wild bo>s--l ! de]1 9 pairs--segeant face to face1 are some:at new4 #hbic4 ,piece ( ,l95 embroid]$ 9 r$ silk1 ) an op5 diap] ( crosslets leav+ circul> & loz5ge spaces1 ! =m] n[ empty1 ! latt] ornam5t$ ) cross-crosslets 9 yell[1 purple1 & gre5 silk4 ,late #ad? c5tury4 #ae in*es by #ab in*es4 ,9 all likelihood ! r\nd spaces 7 fill$ 9 ) h]aldic animals1 & ! piece s]v$ z ! app>el to an alb1 resembl+ ! "o %[n on ! f9e ,w5sley brass1 figur$ by ! bro!rs ,wall]1 & also giv5 9 ! 8,*ur* ( our ,fa!rs10 t4 i4 p4 #cbe4 #hbid4 ,piece ( ,silk & ,gold ,tissue1 ! gr\nd r$ ) a patt]n 9 gre5 & :ite1 =m+ a l>ge loz5ge1 enclos+1 9 "o in/ance1 a bun* ( foliage & two eagles1 9 ! o!r1 a b\gh & two dogs4 ,s\? ,italian1 late #ad? c5tury4 #ba in*es by #aa in*es4 ,9 ?is ri* patt]n !re are c]ta9 portions t1 at fir/ sight1 might be tak5 = attempts to repres5t ,ori5tal lett]s2 !y are1 h[ev]1 no =ms ( any alphabet1 &1 lea/ ( all1 be> any lik5ess to ! ,cufic4 #hbie4 ,piece ( ,silk & ,cotton ,tissue2 gr\nd1 deep r$ mix$ ) gre51 blue1 :ite1 & gold2 ! patt]n consi/s ( loosely bran*$ /ems ) l>ge fl[]-heads1 & mon/]s alt]nately blue & gold1 be>+ 9 _! h&s a :ite fl[]4 ,italian1 late #ad? c5tury4 #bg in*es by #i in*es4 ,! s-call$ sph9xes 9 ?is piece are ^? mon/] figures (t5 f\nd 9 art-"w dur+ ! middle ages1 & are =m$ ( a female head & wai/ jo9$ on to ! body ( a lioness passant c[$1 t is1 ) its tail hang+ d[n betwe5 its legs4 ,9 ?is specim5 may be detect$ an e>ly =m ( ! arti*oke patt]n1 :i* aft]w>ds became su* a fav\rite4 #hbif4 ,piece ( ,silk2 gr\nd1 d>k r$2 patt]n1 a yell[ diap]+ ( some:at f\r-sid$ figures enclos+ an ornam5t ( a d\ble ellipsis4 ,s\? ,spani%1 #ae? c5tury4 #aj in*es by #g in*es4 #hbig4 ,piece ( ,crimson ,silk2 patt]n1 9 gre51 ( op5 arabesque spread 9 wide divisions4 ,s\!rn ,spa91 late #ad? c5tury4 #ah in*es by #g in*es4 ,! design ( ?is valuable piece is v good1 & mu/ h _h a pleas+ effect4 ,f ! way 9 :i* ! cross is introduc$ by comb9ations ( ! ornam5tation & slight attempts at %[+ ! lett] ,m = ,m>ia--! ,bless$ ,virg9 ,m>y1 x w\ld seem t x 0 ! "w ( a ,*ri/ian h& well practis$ 9 ! ,s>ac5ic /yle ( patt]n-draw+4 #hbih4 ,piece ( ,silk2 gr\nd1 crimson2 patt]n1 a yell[ diap]+ ( a r peculi> =m4 ,spani%1 late #ad? c5tury4 #ah in*es by #ab in*es4 ,ri* 9 its tones1 ?is specim5 may h be5 design$ "u ! influ5ce ( ,moori% tea*+s2 x is1 h[ev]1 v agreeable4 #hbii4 ,piece ( ,silk ,tissue2 ! patt]n1 a l>ge rais$ diap]1 :i* consi/s ( a c5tre1 9 r$ silk1 repres5t+ ! web ( ! geometric spid]1 ) ! insect re/+ 9 ! middle1 enclos$ )9 ! bran*es ( a conv5tional tree1 9 silv] ?read4 ,italian1 e>ly #ae? c5tury4 #ab in*es by #f in*es4 ,?\gh ! silk gr\nd ( ?is elegant /uff mu/ h be5 once ( a bright crimson t+e1 almo/ ! :ole ( ! col\r has fl[n2 & ! silv] ?read1 ( :i* ! beautifully arrang$ tree is =m$1 has become s t>ni%$ z to look z if x _h be5 f fir/ a dull olive-gre54 ,su* ev5ts give a w>n+ to manufactur]s ab\t ! quality ( _! dyes1 & ! purity z well z sort ( ! metals !y may *oose to employ4 ,! mann] 9 :i* ! tree & its graceful bran*es are made to /& well out & above ! r$ gr\nd+ is rem>kably good2 &1 altoge!r1 ! patt]n1 compos$ z x is ( a spid] 9 its web1 hang+ s nicely betwe5 ! outspread limbs ( ! tree1 is z s+ul> z x is pleas+4 ,( old1 a ,lomb>d family bore1 z its blazon1 a spid] 9 its web4 #hcjj4 ,piece ( v ri* ,crimson ,silk & gold ,tissue2 ! l>ge patt]n repres5ts a palm-tree ris+ f a close palisade1 )9 :i* is a lion seat$2 f "o side %oots a sl5d] bran*1 to :i* cl+s a bird4 ,italian1 late #ad? c5tury4 #ca in*es by #ad in*es4 ,a f9e bold patt]n1 b ! gold s t>ni%$ t x looks z if ! ?reads _h always be5 br[n4 ,! d[n-b5t eagles1 & ! %aggy-man$ lion c\*ant reg>dant at ! foot ( a palm-tree 9 a p>k palisad$1 make ?is h]aldic design v pleas+4 #hcja4 ,portion ( ,l952 bord]1 probably ( an alt>-clo?1 /amp$ 9 r$ & yell[ ) a geometric patt]n compos$ ( circles & leaves4 ,flemi%1 #ae? c5tury4 ,! design & col\r+ ( ?is old piece ( pr9t$ clo? are s v l ^? employ$ ^u ! glaz$ pav+ tiles ( ! m$ival p]iod1 t ! idea ( ! pott]'s "w imm$iately sugge/s itself2 ?\gh ( su* poor mat]ial1 x is a valuable l9k 9 ! hi/ory ( textiles4 #hcjb4 ,piece ( ,purple ,silk & ,gold ,tissue2 ! patt]n is =m$ ( angels hold+ a mon/rance1 b5ea? :i* is a six-w+$ *]ub's head4 ,flor5t9e1 #ad? c5tury4 #ah in*es by #af in*es4 ,?is is "o ( ! mo/ elaborate & rem>kable specim5s ( ! m$ival weav]s' works1 & %[s h[ well1 ev5 ) _! appliances1 !y c\ld ge> _! looms4 ,! faces ( ! six-w+$ *]ubic heads1 z well z ! h&s & faces ( ! s]aphim1 ve/$ 9 long albs1 7 orig9ally %ad$ by ne$lework1 mo/ ( :i* is n[ gone4 ,! ,umbrian s*ool ( design to be se5 9 ! gracefully float+ =ms ( ! angels1 is v disc]nible4 ,?is ri* /uff mu/ h be5 purposely design$ & wov5 = especial liturgical use at ! great ,fe/ival ( ,corpus ,*ri/i1 & its solemn processions4 ,x may h be5 employ$ = hang+ ! *ancel walls1 or = alt>-curta9s2 b mo/ likely x ov]spread ! long wood5 frame-"w or portable table ^u :i* /ood1 & 0 ?us c>ri$ all ab\t ! t[n by two or f\r deacons1 ! ,bless$ ,sacram5t enclos$ 9 a tall heavy gold or silv] vessel l ! "o %[n 9 ?is textile1 & call$ a 8mon/rance10 because1 in/ead ( %utt+ up f public gaze1 x display$ ! consecrat$ ho/ z x 0 borne ab\t among ! p4 ,dr4 ,bock has figur$ ?is /uff 9 8 8,ges*i*te d] ,liturgis*5 ,gewnd] des ,mittelalt]s40 #hcjc4 ,piece ( ,l952 patt]n1 /amp$ 9 black ) a c5tral /em ( conv5tional bran*es & fl[]s1 at ei!r side ( :i* are hawks cre/$1 reg>dant2 at "o side is a runn+ bord] ( deta*$ portions ( scroll-foliage4 ,flemi%1 v late #ad? c5tury4 #ac in*es by #f in*es4 ,any specim5 ( su* pr9t$ l95 has n[ become some:at a r>ity1 ?\gh !re are o!r pieces "h1 ,nos4 #gjbb1 #hfae4 #hcjd4 ,l95 ,t[el1 = use at ! alt>1 ) deep bord] embroid]$ 9 v>i\s col\r$ silk1 ) a geometrical patt]n int]sp]s$ ) small figures ( birds4 ,beg9n+ ( #ae? c5tury4 #c feet by #a foot #a in*4 #hcje4 ,a ,diaconal ,/ole1 embroid]$ 9 l95 ?read & v>i\s-col\r$ silk1 ) a patt]n some:at l ! 8gammadion0 ornam5ts1 ! ends ( gold tissue1 fr+$ ) silk & l954 ,g]man1 #ad? c5tury4 #h feet #h in*es by #b in*es4 ,= ! di/9ction ( ! prie/'s & ! deacon's /ole1 & ! mann] 9 :i* ei!r we>s x 9 ! celebration ( ! liturgy1 see ,hi]urgia1 p4 #dcd1 #bnd edition4 #hcjf4 ,piece ( ,d>k br[n rais$ ,velvet & ,gold ,tissue2 portion ( ! robe 9 :i* ! ,emp]or ,*>les ,,iv4 0 buri$ at ,prague1 z x is said4 ,italian1 #ad? c5tury4 #g in*es by #f in*es4 #hcjg4 ,l95 ,amice1 ) its 8app>el0 ( crimson silk1 to :i* are sew$ small ornam5ts 9 silv] & silv]-gilt4 ,g]man1 #ae? c5tury4 #d feet #b in*es by #a foot #aa in*es4 ,! example ( l95 9 ?is amice w1 = ! /ud5t ( m$ival antiquities & manufactures1 be ( great s]vice1 %[+1 z x does1 :at we are to und]/& 0 ! k9d ( /uff meant by canvas 9 old acc\nts :i* speak ( t mat]ial s (t5 z b\ght = mak+ albs1 surplices1 & o!r l95 g>m5ts us$ 9 ! c]emonial ( ! ,*ur*4 ,! crimson ornam5t ( silk spr9kl$ ) l>ge spangle-l plates ( silv] gilt1 & /ruck ) a v>iety ( patt]ns1 is ano!r ( v>i\s in/ances to %[ h[ ! goldsmi?'s craft 9 ! middle ages 0 br\ght into play = ornam5ts ^u silk & o!r textiles2 & ! liturgical /ud5t w be glad to see 9 ?is specim5 an in/ance1 n[ s v r>e1 ( an old amice1 ) its /r+s1 b m especially its app>el1 9 its place2 ab\t :i* see 8,*ur* ( our ,fa!rs10 t4 i4 #dfc4 #hcjh4 ,piece ( ,embroid]y 9 ,silk1 on l95 gr\nd2 ! subject1 p>tly ne$lework1 & p>tly sket*$ 91 repres5ts ! ,adoration ( ! ?ree ,k+s4 ,g]man1 #ad? c5tury4 #ab in*es squ>e4 ,?\gh 9 ! /yle ( t p]iod1 x is r\ghly done1 & by no means a good example4 #hcji4 ,piece ( ,silk & ,gold ,tissue2 ! gr\nd1 lilac-blue2 ! patt]n1 9 gold1 repres5ts ! ,annunciation4 ,flor5t9e1 late #ad? c5tury4 #ag in*es by #ab in*es4 ,?is is ano!r ( ^? _m beautiful & arti/ic exempl>s ( ! loom giv5 to ! _w1 b m especially = ! use ( ! ,*ur*1 by ,nor? ,italy1 dur+ ! #ad? & #ae? c5turies4 ,! treatm5t ( ! subject figur$ on ?is fragm5t--! ,annunciation--is q typical1 9 its draw+ & inv5tion1 ( ! feel+s :i* spread !mselves all ov] ! sweet g5tle ,umbrian s*ool ( pa9t+1 f ! days ( its great tea*] ! graceful ,giotto4 ,! lov]1 too1 ( ecclesia/ical symbolism w1 9 ?is small piece1 f9d mu* to draw 8 att5tion to x3 ! dove1 emblem ( ! ,holy ,gho/1 is 9 "o place fly+ d[n f heav5 ) an olive-bran*1 & hov]s ov] ! head ( ! ,bless$ ,virg9 ,m>y2 9 ano!r place1 x /&s at re/ beh9d h]1 & be>+ 9 its beak a lily-l fl[]2 ! angel ,gabriel1 clo!d 9 a full1 wide-fl[+ alb1 c>ry+ 9 8 left h& a w&--! h]ald's sign--tipp$ ) a fleur-de-lis1 to %[ n only t he 0 s5t f ,god1 b = an especial purpose1 is on 8 b5d$ knee be=e ! "m ( our ,"l1 :ile1 ) 8 "r h& uplift$ 9 ! act ( bless+ accord+ to ! ,lat9 rite1 he utt]s ! words ( 8 cele/ial message4 ,! col\r1 too1 ( ! gr\nd--lilac-blue1 emblematic ( :at is heav5ly--mu/ n be ov]look$4 #hcaj4 ,fragm5t ( a ,ve/m5t = ,*ur* use2 embroid]$ 9 silk & gold1 on a d>k blue l95 gr\nd1 ) figures ( ! ,bless$ ,virg9 ,m>y1 & ,infant1 our ,savi\r1 & ,/4 ,john4 ,g]man1 #ae? c5tury4 #c feet #f in*es by #aj in*es4 ,?is f9e example ( ! ,g]man ne$le1 9 its design & treatm5t1 calls to m9d ! rem>kably pa9t$ fold+ alt>-piece by ,ma/] ,/eph5 ,so!n]1 ,a4,d4 #adaj1 9 ! *apel ( ,/4 ,agnes1 at ! ea/ end ( ,cologne ,ca!dral4 #hcaa4 ,! ,app>el = an ,amice2 ! gr\nd1 crimson1 embroid]$ 9 silk2 ! c5tre patt]n is edg$ at bo? sides ) inscriptions done 9 lett]s ( ! m$ival =m4 ,g]man1 #ae? c5tury4 #ae in*es by #c in*es4 ,?is app>el = an amice is embroid]$ 9 sampl]-/it* & /yle ) ! names ( ,/4 ,odilia & ,/4 ,kylianus1 & ! fir/ l9e ( ! hymn 9 hon\r ( ! ,bless$ ,virg9 ,m>y1 8,ave ,reg9a celorum10 z well z ! inscription 8,mat] ,regis10 hav+1 except 9 "o in/ance1 a cr[n$ head betwe5 ea* ^w 9 ! lett]+4 ,/4 ,kilian or ,kuln 0 an ,iri%man born ( a noble h\se3 ) two companions1 he w5t to ,g]many to prea* to ! unbeliev+ ,franconians1 & be+ made bi%op by ,pope ,conon1 he fix$ 8 see at ,wurtzburg1 :]e he 0 m>tyr$1 ,a4,d4 #fhh4 ,dr4 ,bock has figur$ x 9 8 8,ges*i*te d] ,liturgis*5 ,gewnd] des ,mittelalt]s10 iv ,lief]ung1 pl4 iii4 fig4 #d4 #hcab4 ,piece ( ,rais$ ,velvet2 gr\nd1 crimson2 patt]n1 fl[]s & foliage 9 gre51 :ite1 & purple4 ,nor? ,italian1 middle ( #ae? c5tury4 ,atta*$ is a piece ( d>k blue plu% l9+ ( ! same date & c\ntry4 #ad in*es by #ac in*es4 ,z a specim5 ( a patt]n 9 rais$ velvet ^u a pla9 silk gr\nd1 ?is fragm5t is valuable2 & ! occurr5ce ( roses1 bo? :ite & r$1 se$$ & b>b$1 w\ld1 at fir/ sight1 lead to ! ?\ght t its design] _h 9 8 m9d "s recollection ( ! ,engli% ,yorki/ & ,lanca/rian /rife-/irr+ & direful badges2 b x mu/ h be5 wov5 "s ye>s be=e ! w> ( ! ,roses rag$ 9 all its wildness ?r\gh ! l5g? & bread? ( ?is l&4 #hcac4 ,purse ) cords2 :ite lattice-"w on crimson gr\nd1 ) crimson & yell[ patt]n 9 ! spaces1 f\r ( :i* on ea* side are ornam5t$ ) gold ?read4 ,g]man1 latt] half ( ! #ad? c5tury4 #e in*es by #e in*es4 ,n only is ?is little bag nicely embroid]$1 b x has a l9+ ( crimson s>c5et1 & is suppli$ ) platt$ silk5 /r+s ( sev]al col\rs = draw+ its m\? close1 z well z ano!r silk /r+ made aft] ! same fa%ion1 = c>ry+ x 9 ! h&4 ,9 *ur* inv5tories ( ! p]iod m5tion is (t5 f\nd ( silk bags hold+ relics1 & f ,dr4 ,bock we le>n t 9 ! sacri/y ( ,/4 ,g]eon's1 at ,cologne1 may yet be se5 j su* ano!r bag1 :i* s]v$1 if x does n /ill s]ve1 z a sort ( reliqu>y4 ,= tak+ to ! sick & dy+1 ! holy ,eu*>i/ %ut up 9 a small silv] or ivory box1 su* little bags 7 & yet are employ$1 b !n !y 7 borne slung r\nd ! neck ( ! prie/1 :i* 9 ?is in/ance c\ld n be done1 z ! cord is too %ort4 ,bags = pray]-books are (t5 figur$1 b ?is "o is too small = su* a purpose2 its mo/ probable use 0 t ( a reliqu>y4 #hcad4 ,piece ( ,velvet2 gr\nd ( crimson1 bord]$ ) gre51 br[n1 :ite1 & purple1 & /rip$ ) b&s ( gold ?read1 probably = secul> use4 ,spani%1 beg9n+ ( ! #af? c5tury4 #ac in*es by #e in*es4 ,! pile ( ?is velvet is good1 b s bad 0 ! gold1 t x has turn$ black4 #hcae4 ,two ,pieces ( ,embroid]y1 9 silk & gold ?read ^u :ite l952 ! "o %[s our ,savi\r be>+ ,8 cross2 ! o!r1 an inscription ) ! date #addb4 ,^! pieces h be5 m\nt$ on a piece ( crimson damask ( a mu* lat] date4 ,! embroid]ies1 ,g]man1 middle ( #ae? c5tury2 ! crimson silk1 ,lyons1 late #ag? c5tury4 #f in*es squ>e4 ,to all appe>ance1 ?is figure ( our ,"l c>ry+ ,8 cross to ,calv>y1 z well z ! inscription above x1 =m$ "p ( ! orphrey ( a *asuble1 & to pres]ve x1 0 m\nt$ ^u ! crimson silk :i* is /iff5$ by a ?9 bo>d2 & f ! black loop at top x seems x 0 hung z a devotional picture ^u ! wall1 mo/ likely1 ( a private oratory or b$-room4 ,z a "w ( art1 ! figure ( our ,"l is beautiful4 ,! head1 h&s1 & feet1 z well z ! cross$ nimbus 9 gold1 ! cross1 & ! gr\nd /rew$ ) fl[]s1 are work$ ) ! ne$le2 :ile ! folds ( ! :ite l95 g>m5t are all1 ) b a v few /rokes1 m>k$ by br[n l9es put 9 ) ! bru%4 ,! inscription1 q a sep>ate piece1 done 9 gold ^u ?9 br[n silk l9$ ) canvas1 reads ?us3--,wyd]oyd ,pa/or ,s4 ,jac7obi7 ,colon7i5sis74 #addb4 ,9 its orig9al /ate x mu/ h be51 z n[1 8appli$10 & n wr\ght ^u ! ve/m5t itself1 & af=ds a good h9t to ^? :o are /riv+ to br+ back ! use ( su* a mode ( embroid]y 9 cut "w4 #hcaf4 ,piece ( ,silk ,embroid]y on gre5 silk gr\nd4 ,! patt]n is 9 bran*es decorat$ ) glass beads1 & gilt spangles1 fl[]s 9 :ite & r$ silk1 & leaves 9 r$ & yell[4 ,g]man1 middle ( #ae? c5tury4 #f in*es squ>e4 ,rem>kable = ! fre$om ( its design & beautiful regul>ity ( its /it*es4 ,! ?9 gre5 s>c5et ^u :i* ! embroid]y 0 orig9ally made is ne>ly all gone1 & sc>cely any?+ l a gr\nd+ is to be se5 beside ! ?ick blue canvass1 :i* is back$ by a l9+ ( ! same mat]ial1 b :ite4 ,^? small opaque :ite beads1 9 all likelihood1 came f ,v5ice1 :]e ,murano1 to ?is day1 is ! great manufactory = ,africa ( ! same sort ( ornam5t4 #hcag4 ,napk91 or ,t[el1 9 ,:ite ,l95 ,diap]1 ) patt]ns wov5 9 blue & br[n4 ,g]man1 beg9n+ ( ! #ae? c5tury4 #ai in*es by #i in*es4 ,?\gh n conspicu\s = ! ri*ness ( its mat]ial1 ?is l95 textile is some:at a curiosity1 z su* specim5s h n[ become r>e2 & x %[s h[1 ev5 9 t[els1 ! ornam5tation ( col\r1 z well z ! patt]n 9 w>p & weft1 7 att5d$ to 9 ! m$ival p]iod4 #hcah4 ,piece ( ,silk ,damask1 gre51 ) patt]n ( pomegranates1 cr[ns1 & wrea?s ( fl[]s4 ,flemi%1 middle ( #af? c5tury4 ,! ta/efully-arrang$ design ( ?is silk w\ld seem to h be5 a fav\rite1 z we %all aga9 meet x 9 o!r specim5s1 especially at ,no4 #hccb4 #hcai4 ,piece ( ,silk ,damask1 slate blue gr\nd1 ) w9d+ bord]s ( c9namon col\r1 enclos+ pomegranates wr\ght 9 gold ?read & :ite silk4 ,flemi%1 middle ( #af? c5tury1 #b feet #f in*es by #b feet4 ,?\gh elaborate 9 design & ri* 9 gold1 ?is piece is n happy 9 its col\rs4 ,its use mu/ h be5 = ! c\rt & palace1 b n = ! *ur*1 & ! :ole is loom-wr\ght1 & no?+ ab\t x done by ! ne$le4 #hcbj4 ,orphrey1 wov5 ( crimson wool & :ite l95 ?read4 ,! patt]n is ( fl[]s & leaves on a trellis ( bran*es1 9 :i* appe> ! names ( 8,jhesus10 8,m>ia40 ,g]man1 end ( #ae? c5tury4 #b feet #h in*es by #b in*es4 ,9 ?is textile ! w>p is ( :ite /rong l95 ?read1 ! wo( ( crimson wool2 & /uffs ( su* *eap mat]ials 7 wr\ght to s]ve z orphreys to tunicles & dalmatics worn by deacon & sub-deacon at high mass1 & 9 processions1 z well z = trimm+ o!r adornm5ts = *ur* use2 ! liturgical girdle nei!r is1 nor ev] 0 made1 accord+ to ! ,lat9 rite1 ( s broad a wid?1 nor aft] su* a fa%ion2 9 ! ,greek ritual1 broad girdles are 9 use4 ,! weav]s ( laces = c>riage-trimm+1 or ! adornm5t ( /ate liv]ies1 w 9 ?is specim5 see t1 m ?an ?ree hundr$ ye>s ago1 _! craft 0 practis$ 9 ,g]many2 & ,cologne appe>s to h be5 ! c5tre ( su* a loom production4 #hcba4 ,piece ( ,sat9 ,damask1 gr\nd ( gold5 yell[1 cov]$ ) a ri* patt]n 9 rose-col\r4 ,fr5* 7871 middle ( ! #af? c5tury4 #b feet #aj in*es by #aa in*es4 ,9 ?is specim5 we obs]ve h[ ! designs = textiles 7 gradually los+ ! conv5tional =ms ( ! m$ival p]iod4 #hcbb4 ,piece ( ,velvet1 d>k blue1 figur$ ) a pomegranate k9d ( patt]n4 ,italian1 end ( ! #ae? c5tury4 #ag in*es by #ad in*es4 ,lucca seems to be ! place :]e ?is specim5 ( a deep-pil$ & prettily design$ velvet 0 produc$2 & a m$ival conv5tionality hung ab\t ! p5cil ( its design]1 z we may obs]ve 9 ! scrolls or fea!r+s /opp$ ) graceful cusps :i* g r\nd & %ut 9 ^? modifications ( ! s-call$ p9e1 really an arti*oke1 & ! pomegranate patt]n4 ,?\gh equally employ$ = secul> z well z sacr$ purposes1 su* velvets1 9 _! latt] use1 are (t5 f\nd 9 ! rema9s ( copes1 *asubles1 c4 & alt>-frontals4 #hcbc4 ,portion ( a ,*asuble1 9 figur$ velvet2 ! gr\nd1 purple1 ) a pomegranate patt]n 9 yell[1 gre51 & :ite1 ) a broad yell[ scroll4 ,g5oese1 middle ( #af? c5tury4 #b feet #c in*es by #a foot #i in*es4 ,g5oa _h e>n$ = itself a notoriety1 ab\t ?is p]iod1 = its velvets1 wr\ght 9 sev]al col\rs1 & ! pres5t piece seems no bad specim5 ( ! /yle4 ,by ! w>p ( cotton & ! ?9 l[ pile ( its silk5 wo( we le>n t ,g5oese velvets v>i$ mu* 9 ! ri*ness ( _! mat]ials1 &1 9 consequ5ce1 9 _! co/4 ,?is piece 0 once 9 a *asuble1 z we may see by ! b5d1 to fit ! neck1 9 ! upp] "p4 #hcbd4 ,piece ( ,silk & ,l95 ,tissue2 patt]n1 :ite crosses on gr\nd ( crimson1 b>r$ ) purple1 yell[1 & gre54 ,g]man1 #af? c5tury4 #d in*es squ>e4 ,?is specim5 ( ,g]man trimm+1 l ! "o ,no4 #hcbj1 seems to h be5 made at ,cologne1 & = ! same ecclesia/ical uses4 #hcbe4 ,piece ( ,silk-,velvet ,damask2 gre51 ) patt]n ( l>ge & small pomegranates 9 gold4 ,lucca1 latt] half ( ! #ae? c5tury4 #c feet #aj in*es by #aa in*es4 ,among ! rem>kable specim5s ( velvet 9 ?is collection1 n ! lea/ conspicu\s is ! pres5t "o1 be+ velvet ^u velvet1 t is1 hav+1 9 a portion ( x1 a patt]n 9 a high] pile ?an ! pile ( ! gr\nd4 ,by look+ n>r[ly at ! l>g] pomegranate 9 gold5 ?read )9 its he>t-%ap$ oval1 ) fea!r+s b\nd$ by trefoil$ cusps1 ! eye w cat* an undulat+ patt]n ris+ slightly above ! re/ ( ! pile2 su* examples1 z di/+ui%$ f :at is call$ cut or rais$ velvet1 are v r>e4 ,! tone1 too1 ( ! f9e gre51 z well z ! goodness ( ! gold1 9 ! ornam5tation1 enhance ! value ( ?is piece1 :i* 0 once ! back "p ( a *asuble4 #hcbf4 ,piece ( ,silk ,damask2 :ite1 ) ! rose & pomegranate patt]n wov5 9 gold ?read4 ,spani%1 latt] half ( ! #ae? c5tury4 ,?is piece1 f ! looms ( ,spa91 = ! beauty ( design & ! ?ick ri*ness ( its silk1 is some:at rem>kable4 #hcbg4 ,box cov]$ ) crimson rais$ velvet1 hav+1 r\nd ! lid1 a _m-col\r$ cotton fr+e4 ,x holds two liturgical pall1 bo? ( f9e l95 & figur$--"o m\nt$ on pa/ebo>d & measur+ #g in*es by #g in*es1 ) an alt> & two figures2 ! o!r1 ) ! ,crucifixion & ,/4 ,m>y & ,/4 ,john1 measur+ #i in*es by #i in*es4 ,inside ! lid ( ?is box is an illum9at$ bord] ( fl[]s1 & ! c5tral design is effac$4 ,velvet1 ,italian1 #af? c5tury1 all ! pa9t+s v late #ae? c5tury1 & ,g]man4 ,box1 #aj in*es by #i in*es4 ,z a case = hold+ 8corporals0 & 8palls10 ?is box is a curiosity1 9 its way1 ( r>e occurr5ce4 ,x mu/ be c>efully di/+ui%$ f a squ>e sort ( case = ! 8corporal10 & call$ ! 8burse40 ,! corporal is a l>ge squ>e piece ( f9e l952 & at "o "t ! *alice at mass n only /ood ^u x b 0 cov]$ too by its inw>d bord]2 b = a long p]iod1 ! usage has be5 & is to put ^u ! *alice1 in/ead ( any "p ( ! corporal1 a mu* small] sep>ate squ>e piece ( f9e l951 (t5 /iff5$1 ! bett] to s]ve its purpose1 ) c>d-bo>d1 l ?is example2 su* is a pall1 & ! "o be=e u is figur$1 we may say illum9at$1 ) :at us$ to be call$1 9 ,engl&1 ,/4 ,gregory's ,pity2 8,*ur* ( our ,fa!rs10 i4 #ec4 ,^u an alt>1 ar\nd :i* are ! in/rum5ts ( ! ,passion1 & on "o side ,/4 ,pet]1 kn[n by ! key 9 8 h&1 & on ! o!r ! cock on ! column1 cr[+1 /&s our ,"l all ble$+1 ) ! blood trickl+ into a *alice betwe5 ,8 feet4 ,at ! foot ( ! alt> kneels1 veil$ = mass1 ,/4 ,gregory ! ,great1 beh9d :om we see1 hold+ a book 9 bo? h&s1 ,/4 ,j]ome1 rob$ z a c>d9al2 ! :ole is fram$ 9 a floriat$ bord]4 ,! o!r1 & un/iff5$ 8pall10 is illum9at$ ) ! ,crucifixion aft] ! usual conv5tional mann]1 9 all respects1 t prevail$ at ! "t x 0 done1 t is1 some:]e ab\t ! ye> #adij4 ,z specim5s on l95 ^! two palls are r r>e4 ,! bord] ( fl[]s1 on vellum1 atta*$ to ! inside ( ! lid1 is a free1 well-col\r$1 & pleas+ example ( ! ,flemi% s*ool late 9 ! #ae? c5tury4 ,! rais$ velvet is ( a ri* crimson tone1 & f ,lucca or ,g5oa4 ,?\gh1 9 lat] times1 employ$ z an ord9>y case = ! cleanly keep+ aft] s]vice ( ! corporals or pieces ( f9e l951 always spread out 9 ! middle ( ! alt>-/one = ! ho/ & *alice to re/ ^u1 at mass1 its fir/ use seems to h be5 = res]vation ( ! ,bless$ ,sacram5t consecrat$ on ,maundy ,?ursday to s]ve at ! celebration ( ! div9e (fice on ,good ,friday morn+1 z we h fully set =? 9 ! ,introduction #e1 & aga9 :ile describ+ a simil> box1 ,no4 #eieh4 ,9 ! pres5t specim5 all t rema9s ( ! vellum illum9ation1 once ^u ! inside ( ! lid1 is a wrea? ( pa9t$ fl[]s1 )9 :i* /ood ! miss+ ,crucifixion4 ,! abs5ce ( t sc5e is1 h[ev]1 well suppli$ by ! o!r k9d ( art-"w wr\ght 9 col\rs ( ! same subject2 done1 too1 aft] a broad bold mann]1 ^u a squ>e piece ( v f9e l951 :i*1 z x is moveable1 s]ves n[ z a l9+ = ! l[] inside ( ?is case4 ,su* ecclesia/ical appliances are r>e1 s mu* s1 t1 besides ! two 9 ?is collection1 none is kn[n to be 9 ?is c\ntry2 :ile v few1 ev5 on ! ,cont95t1 are to be se5 at ! pres5t day4 #hcbh4 ,amice ( ,l952 ) its app>el ( crimson velvet1 on :i* are ?ree hexagonal roses wov5 9 gold4 ,spani%1 middle ( ! #ae? c5tury4 #c feet #i in*es by #a foot #i in*es4 ,! velvet ( ! app>el is ( a f9e ri* pile1 & ! tone ( col\r light ruby4 ,! fl[]s1 se$$ & b>b$1 are n put 9 by ! ne$le b wov54 ,su* a liturgical appliance is n n[ (t5 to be met ) 9 its orig9al /ate2 b1 9 ?is in/ance1 x ought to be notic$1 t :ile ! amice itself--t is1 ! l95 portion ( ?is ve/m5t--is rem>kable = its l>ge size1 ! velvet app>el sew$ on x is broad] & %ort] ?an ^? :i* we f9d figur$ on ,engli% ecclesia/ical monum5ts dur+ ! m$ival p]iod4 ,! n>r[ gre5 f]ret :i* hems ! app>el is usually f\nd employ$ z a b9d+ 9 crimson liturgical g>m5ts anci5tly made 9 ,fl&]s4 ,?\gh ! velvet 0 wov5 9 ,spa91 ?is l95 amice seems to h once belong$ to "s ,flemi% sacri/y3 at "o p]iod ! connection betwe5 ! two c\ntries 0 drawn v close4 #hcbi4 ,l95 ,clo? or ,corporal1 ) an edge on all its f\r sides2 #b in*es broad1 embroid]$ 9 blue1 :ite1 & yell[ silks4 ,g]man1 late #ae? c5tury4 #bb in*es by #ba in*es4 ,to ! /ud5t ( ecclesia/ical antiquities ?is liturgical appliance w be a great curiosity1 f its be+ s mu* l>g] ?an ! corporals n[ 9 use2 b its size may be easily acc\nt$ =4 ,f be+ put ov] ! alt>-clo?1 on ! middle ( ! table ( ! alt>1 s t ! prie/1 at mass1 might place ! ho/ & *alice imm$iately ^u x be=e & aft] ! consecration ( ! ,eu*>i/1 x got1 & /ill keeps ! "n ( 8corporale10 ab\t :i* ! read] may consult 8,hi]urgia10 p4 #gd1 #bnd edition4 ,! embroid]y1 seem+ly ( a v9e1 is some:at rem>kable f be+1 l ,indian ne$lework1 ! same on bo? sides1 & 0 s done = a purpose to be notic$ bel[4 ,its great] size may be easily expla9$4 ,dur+ ! middle ages1 z 9 ,engl&1 s 9 ,g]many1 ! usage 0 to cov] ! *alice on ! alt>1 n ) a little squ>e piece ( l95 call$ a 8palla10 two specim5s ( :i* are m5tion$1 ,no4 #hcbg1 b ) ! corporal itself1 z %[n 9 ^? illum9ations copi$ & giv5 z a frontispiece to ! f\r? volume ( ! 8,*ur* ( our ,fa!rs40 ,to draw up = ?is purpose ! inn] edge ( ! corporal1 x 0 made1 z ne$$1 l>g] ?an ! "o n[ 9 use4 ,moreov]1 z ! "u side ( ! embroid]y w\ld ?us be turn$ upw>ds & conspicu\sly %[n1 ev5 on ! consecrat$ *alice1 to a great ext5t2 & z any?+ fray$ & ragg$--& ?is s+le embroid]y always is on ! "u side--w\ld1 at su* a "t1 9 su* a place1 h be5 mo/ unseemly2 to h9d] ?is disrespect ! embroid]y 0 made d\ble1 t is1 z p]fect on ! "o side z on ! o!r1 giv+ ! design cle> & accurate on bo?1 s t :i*ev] "p happ5$ to be turn$ upw>ds x look$ becom+4 #hccj4 ,piece ( ,silk ,damask2 gre51 ) patt]n ( cr[ns connect$ by wavy ribbons1 9 ea* space is a rose4 ,nor? ,italian1 #ae? c5tury4 #bb in*es by #ba in*es4 ,?is f9e & valuable piece ( damask exhibits a v effective design1 :i* is ?or\ghly h]aldic 9 all its elem5ts4 ,( ^!1 ! fir/ are roselettes--s+le roses hav+ five petals ea*--se$$ & b>b$1 & e petal folds inw>d v appropriately2 all ab\t ea* roselette roves a bordure nebul1 significative 9 h]aldry ( a cl\d-wrea?1 above :i* & j ov] ! fl[] re/s an op5 cr[n1 ! hoop ( :i* is /udd$ ) jewels1 & be>s on ! upp] rim two balls--pe>ls--on pyramidal po9ts1 & ?ree fleurs-de-lis4 ,to take ^! roselettes = ! ,tudor fl[] w\ld be a great mi/ake1 z x 0 n ?\ght ( at ! p]iod :5 ?is /uff 0 manufactur$1 besides :i*1 x is nev] %[n z a roselette or s+le rose1 b z a v d\ble "o4 ,x is n unlikely t ?is damask 01 9 ! fir/ in/ance1 ord]$ f ,italy1 if n by our ,edw>d ,,iv1 at lea/ by "o ( ! ,yorki/ p>ty aft] ! ,lanca/rian defeat at ,mortim]'s ,cross3 ! cr[n ) its fr+e ( cl\ds seems to po9t to ! curi\s appe>ance 9 ! heav5s t day4 ,:5 once 8 loom 0 ge>$ ! ,lomb>d weav] w\ld n hesitate to "w (f /uffs aft] ! same patt]n ord]$ by 8 ,engli% cu/om] & sell !m 9 ! ,italian m>kets4 #hcca4 ,piece ( ,lace 9 ,op5 ,"w4 ,! patt]n1 oblong & octagonal spaces fram$ 9 gold ?read1 & conta9+ />s 9 silv] & fl[]s 9 gold1 ^u a black silk gr\nd4 ,milanese1 end ( ! #af? c5tury4 #ad in*es by #d in*es4 ,illu/ration3 #hcca4 ,,lace ,,embroid]y1 ,milanese---- #af? c5tury4 ,dur+ a long "t ,milan1 ! capital ( ri* & manufactur+ ,lomb>dy1 /ood conspicu\s among its neighb\r+ cities = ! production ( its gold ?read1 & beautifully wr\ght laces 9 t mat]ial2 & ! specim5 be=e u is a pleas+ example ( ?is f>-fam$ ,milanese h&icraft4 ,to all appe>ance1 x once s]v$ z ! app>el to an amice to be us$ 9 religi\s s]vices = ! dead4 ,x seems ! "w ( ! loom2 & ! piece ( /\t black silk "u x 0 meant1 ?\gh q ap>t f x1 to be1 z x 71 a gr\nd+ to ?r[ up m effectively its gold & silv] ornam5tation4 #hccb4 ,piece ( ,silk1 =m]ly crimson1 b mu* fad$1 ) elaborate patt]n ( pomegranates1 cr[ns & wrea?s ( fl[]s4 ,flemi%1 middle ( ! #af? c5tury4 #ai in*es by #ag in*es4 ,9 ?is piece1 ?\gh s fad$1 we h a good specim5 ( ! ,bruges loom ab\t ! second half ( ! #af? c5tury1 & seem+ly f ! same work%op :i* s5t =? ,no4 #hcah4 #hccc4 ,hood ( a ,cope1 ) figures embroid]$ on a v ri* gr\nd ( r$ & gold velvet4 ,velvet1 ,flor5t9e2 ! embroid]y ,flemi%1 late #ae? c5tury4 #af in*es by #ae in*es4 ,ab\t ?is p]iod1 ,flor5ce 0 not$ = its truly ri* & beautiful crimson velvets ( a deep pile & arti/ically fl[]$ 9 gold1 & pr(usely sprigg$1 or r dott$1 ) small loops ( gold5 ?read /&+ well up f ! velvet gr\nd2 & 9 ?is production ( ,flor5t9e contrivance we h a good example ( its speciality4 ,! ne$lework is a v fav\rable specim5 ( ,flemi% embroid]y1 & ! managem5t ( ! ?ree subjects %[s t ! h& t wr\ght !m 0 quick5$ ) a feel+ love = ! s*ool ( ,hans ,meml+1 :o has made ,bruges to be ! pilgrimage ( _m an admir] ( ! beautiful 9 ,*ri/ian art4 ,! holy woman1 :o1 accord+ to ! old tradition1 gave a napk9 to our ,"l on ,8 way to ,calv>y1 is figur$1 at top1 hold+1 out/ret*$ be=e h] to our view1 ?is l95 clo? %[+ %ad[$ on x ! head ( our ,r$eem] cr[n$ ) ?orns & trickl+ ) blood3 ! ,sa9t became kn[n z ,/4 ,v]onica1 & ! h&k]*ief itself z ! 8,v>nicle40 ,j bel[1 we h ! ,bless$ ,virg9 ,m>y seat$ & hold+ on h] knees ! infant ,savi\r1 be=e :om kneels ,/4 ,b]n>d1 ! fam\s abbot ( ,clairvaux1 9 ! :ite ,ci/]cian habit :i* he _h receiv$ f our fell[-c\ntryman1 ,/4 ,/eph5 ,h>d+1 ! f\nd] ( ! ,ci/]cian ,ord]1 ab\t ! ye> #aaad4 ,! gr\p itself is an e>ly example ( a once fav\rite subject 9 ,/4 ,b]n>d's life1 ?us ref]r$ to by ,mrs4 ,jameson1 9 "o ( h] *>m+ books3--8,x 0 said ( him 7,/4 ,b]n>d7 t :5 he 0 writ+ 8 fam\s homilies on #8,! ,song ( ,songs :i* is ,solomon's1' ! ,holy ,virg9 h]self condesc5d$ to appe> to him1 & moi/5$ 8 lips ) ! milk f h] bosom2 s t ev] aft]w>ds 8 eloqu5ce1 :e!r 9 speak+ or 9 writ+1 0 p]suasive1 irresi/ible1 sup]-natural40 7,leg5ds ( ! ,mona/ic ,ord]s1 p4 #adb74 ,l[] /ill1 ,/4 ,b]n>d1 ) 8 abbot's pa/oral /aff1 ca/ ^u ! gr\nd by 8 side1 is pray+1 on b5d$ knees1 be=e a crucifix1 f (f ( :i* our ,r$eem] has loos5$ ,himself to fall into ! arms ( ! sa9t1 :o 0 s fond ( m$itat+ on all ! ?roes ( our ,"l ^u ! cross4 #hccd4 ,piece ( ,crimson ,velvet1 spangl$ ) gold & silv] />s1 & embroid]$ ) leaves & fl[]s 9 gold ?read1 once dott$ ) preci\s /ones4 ,nor? ,italian1 end ( ! #ae? c5tury4 #ad in*es by #e in*es4 ,! ,g5oese velvet ( ?is piece is ( a v deep ruby tone1 deep] ?an usual2 b ! way 9 :i* x is ornam5t$ %\ld n be pass$ ov] by ^? :o wi% to le>n "o among ! v effective /yles ( embroid]+4 ,! design consi/s *iefly ( bran*es gracefully b5t 9 all directions & spr\t+ out1 "h & !re1 ) leaves & v>i\sly fa%ion$ fl[]s :i*1 f "o example t /ill holds its t9y r\nd-head$ piece ( col\r$ glass set 9 a silv] gilt socket1 bore 9 !m mock preci\s /ones1 & p]haps se$-pe>ls4 ,^! bran*es !mselves are made ( common hemp5 /r+1 edg$ on bo? sides ) a ?read ( gold ( a small] bulk1 & ! fl[]s are height5$ to good effect by ! bright r$ /it*es ( ! crimson silk ) :i* ! gold t =ms !m is sew$ 92 & ! :ole ( ! design appe>s to h be5 work$1 fir/ ^u a /rong canvas1 f :i* x 0 aft]w>ds cut & appliqu ^u its velvet gr\nd4 ,all ! space betwe5 ! b\ghs is spr9kl$ r ?ickly ) six-ray$ />s ( gold & silv]1 b ! latt] ones h turn$ almo/ black4 ,?is piece 0 once ! app>el = ! l[] bord] ( an alb4 #hcce4 ,piece ( ,silk ,damask2 ^u a light blue gr\nd1 an elaborate patt]n ( pomegranates & fl[]s 9 pale yell[4 ,flemi%1 end ( ! #af? c5tury4 #bd in*es by #ba in*es4 ,l1 9 _m respects1 to ano!r piece ( ! looms ( anci5t ,bruges1 x %[s t ! ,flem+s 7 un=tunate 9 _! mode ( dye+1 = ?is1 z well z ,no4 #hccb1 has fad$ mu* 9 col\r1 b ! patt]n is v ri* & graceful4 ,?is textile is figur$ by ,dr4 ,bock1 9 8 8,hi/ory ( ,liturgical ,robes10 vol4 i4 #hccf4 ,piece ( ,silk ,net-,"w1 =m]ly crimson4 ,! design is evid5tly circul>1 & consi/s ( a loz5ge fill$ 9 ) two o!r v mu* small] loz5ges t\*+ ea* o!r l5g?wise4 ,milanese1 end ( ! #af? c5tury4 ,?is curi\s little piece ( frame-"w seems to be ano!r specim5 ( ! lace ( ,milan1 conc]n+ :i* a notice has be5 giv5 "u ,no4 #hcca4 ,"s w\ld take x to be cro*et1 b x looks z if x came f a loom4 ,to our ?9k+1 x 0 ei!r ! heel or ! toe "p ( a silk /ock+4 ,?\gh ( a mu* f9] texture1 x mu* resembles1 9 patt]n1 ! yell[ silk pair ( /ock+s belong+ n[ to ! ,m>quis ( ,salisbury1 b once pres5t$ by ,"l ,hunsdon to ,que5 ,elizabe?1 & said to be ! fir/ ev] made 9 ,engl&4 #hhcg4 ,piece ( ,crimson ,rais$ ,velvet1 ) patt]n ( pomegranates1 fl[]s & scrolls embroid]$ 9 gold ?read & col\r$ silks4 ,g5oese1 beg9n+ ( ! #af? c5tury4 ,?is piece af=ds a v in/ructive in/ance ( h[ velvet textiles 7 n unfrequ5tly treat$4 ,! patt]n 0 fir/ wr\ght 9 ! weav+1 & made ! fabric :at is n[ kn[n z cut or rais$ velvet4 ,!n ^? p>ts left b>e ( ! silk5 pile 7 fill$ 9 by h&-embroid]y1 done 9 gold1 silv]1 & silks ( v>i\s col\rs1 z ! fancy ( ! individual might l1 & produc$ a mix$ "w simil> to ! "o be=e u4 ,! velvet itself ( ?is specim5 is poor 9 col\r & ?9 9 sub/ance1 b ! gold ?read is ( ! f9e/1 & admirably put toge!r2 & ^? little specks ( ! crimson silk employ$ 9 sew+ x on1 help1 9 no small mann]1 to height5 its brilliancy & effect4 #hcch4 ,"p ( an ,orphrey2 gr\nd1 gold ?read1 ) ornam5tation1 9 silk1 ( a rosette1 a tree ) fl[]s1 & ! inscriptions--8,ave ,reg9a ,celorum10 & 8,jhesus40 ,cologne "w1 late #ae? c5tury4 #bb in*es by #c in*es4 ,mu*1 9 /yle1 l ,no4 #hcbj4 #hcch;,a4 ,"p ( an ,orphrey1 wov5 9 silk ^u l952 gr\nd1 r$2 patt]n1 9 gold ?read ^u blue silk4 ,cologne "w1 #ae? c5tury4 #ae in*es by #d in*es4 ,?is & ! piece imm$iately prec$+ af=d u "o ( ! peculi>ities ( ! ,g]man loom1 &1 9 all likelihood1 7 wov5 at ,cologne1 ! great manufactur+ c5tre ( ,g]many 9 ! middle ages4 ,su* webs 7 wr\ght = ! orphreys ( *asubles1 copes1 & dalmatics1 c4 ,! design is /iff1 & want+ 9 mu* ( ! elegance to be f\nd 9 e>li] works ( ! loom1 &1 f its sampl]-l look1 might1 at fir/ sight1 be tak5 = ne$lework4 #hcci4 ,piece ( ,silk & ,l95 ,damask2 patt]n1 ri*1 broad & fl[+1 9 crimson1 on a gold gr\nd4 ,g5oese1 late #af? c5tury4 #b feet #d in*es by #a foot #aa in*es4 ,?is gives u a f9e specim5 ( ,italian weav+ 9 ! middle or latt] portion ( ! #af? c5tury4 ,s ri*1 & s solid 9 mat]ials1 x is z bold z x is1 at fir/ sight1 attractive 9 its design1 & %[s indications ( t /rap-%ap$ ornam5tation :i* soon aft]w>ds became s conspicu\s 9 all cut-"w1 especially s 9 bookb9d+s1 all ov] ,we/]n ,europe4 ,su* /uffs 7 mo/ly us$ = hang+s on ! walls ( /ate-rooms & ! backs ( ! /alls 9 *ur*es1 z well z = curta9s at ! sides ( alt>s4 #hcdj4 ,piece ( ,silk ,damask2 patt]n1 ( ! #af? c5tury revival "*1 9 crimson ^u a yell[ gr\nd2 probably a bord] to "s o!r /uff4 ,flor5t9e1 end ( ! #af? c5tury1 #aj in*es by #e in*es4 #hcda4 ,piece ( ,l95 & ,wooll5 ,damask1 :ite & gre52 ! patt]n1 birds1 oak-leaves1 & acorns4 ,nor? ,italian1 end ( ! #af? c5tury4 #g in*es by #e in*es4 ,?\gh made out ( su* humble mat]ials z l95-?read & wor/$1 ?is *>m+ little piece ( /uff _c fail 9 draw+ ^u itself ! eye ( ! obs]v]1 by ! beauty & elegance :i* x has ab\t x4 #hcdb4 ,l95 ,napk91 or r ,s9don or ,pyx-clo?1 ! bord]s embroid]$ ) col\r$ silks & silv]-?read4 ,p]haps ,flemi%1 #af? c5tury4 #ah in*es by #af in*es4 ,9 m s5ses ?an "o ?is small l95 clo? is ( great value1 be+1 9 ! fir/ place1 a liturgical appliance ( ! m$ival p]iod1 n[ unus$ 9 ?is =m1 c]ta9ly unique 9 ?is c\ntry1 & h>dly ev] to be met ) on ! cont95t1 ei!r 9 private h&s or public collections4 ,accord+ to anci5t ,engli% cu/om1 ! pyx conta9+ p>ticles ( ! ,bless$ ,eu*>i/ = giv+1 at all h\rs ( day or night1 ! ,holy ,communion to ! dy+1 & kept hang+ up ov] ! high alt> ( e *ur* 9 ?is l&1 0 ov]spread ) "o ( su* f9e l95 & embroid]$ veils1 z may be se5 9 an illum9ation f ! 8,life ( ,/4 ,edmund1 ,k+ & ,m>tyr10 9 ! ,h>ley ,collection1 ,briti% ,museum1 & engrav$ 9 ! 8,*ur* ( our ,fa!rs10 t4 iv4 p4 #bjf4 ,! read]s ( ,engli% hi/ory w1 no d\bt1 feel an int]e/ 9 ?is specim51 :5 !y le>n t1 ) su* a l95 napk91 ,m>y ,que5 ( ,scots _h h] face muffl$ j be=e %e laid h] head ^u ! block3 8,!n ! maid1 ,k5n$y1 took a h&k]*ief1 edg$ ) gold1 9 :i* ! ,eu*>i/ _h =m]ly be5 enclos$1 & fa/5$ x ov] h] eyes40 8,pict4 ,hi/4 ( ,engl&1 ed4 ,knight10 t4 ii4 p4 #fga4 ,knight is wrong 9 say+ t ! ,holy ,eu*>i/ _h ev] be5 imm$iately enclos$ 9 ?is clo?1 :i* is only ! veil t us$ to be ca/ ov] ! pyx or small vessel 9 :i* ! consecrat$ ho/s 7 kept1 z we obs]v$ 9 ! introduction1 #e4 #hcdc4 ,piece ( ,l95 ,damask2 patt]n1 ( ! pomegranate type1 ) a bord] ( an armorial %ield repeat$1 & ! initials ,c4 ,l4 ,an edg+ ( lace is atta*$ to "o end4 ,flemi%1 middle ( ! #af? c5tury4 #ag in*es by #ac in*es4 ,! %ield is p>ty p] pale2 9 ! fir/1 two b>s c\nt]-embattl$2 9 ! second1 a *evron *>g$ ) ?ree escallop %ells4 ,mo/ likely ?is small piece ( ,flemi% nap]y s]v$ z ! f+]-clo? or little napk9 ) :i*1 :5 say+ mass1 ! prie/ dri$ ! tips ( 8 f+]s aft] wa%+ !m1 ! :ile he said t pray]1 8,munda me1 ,dom9e10 c4 9 ! ,salisbury ,missal2 8,*ur* ( our ,fa!rs10 t4 iv4 p4 #aej4 ,by ! rubrics ( ! ,roman ,missal1 ! prie/ 01 & yet is1 direct$ to say1 at ! ritual wa%+ ( 8 h&s1 t portion ( ! #be? ,psalm1 :i* beg9s1 v]se #f1 8,lavabo manus meas10 c4 8,hi]urgia10 p4 #ba2 h5ce ^! small liturgical t[els got1 & /ill keep1 ! "n ( ,lavabo clo?s or ,lavaboes1 especially 9 all ^? c\ntries :]e ! ,roman ,missal is 9 use4 #hcdd4 ,piece ( ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 blue & yell[2 patt]n1 a l>ge conv5tional fl[]1 ) h]aldic %ields1 helmets1 & cre/s4 ,italian1 late #af? c5tury4 #a foot #h in*es by #ac in*es4 ,! %ields %[ a pale2 ! helmets are giv5 sidewise ) ! beav] clos$2 & ! cre/s1 a demi-wyv]n segeant1 b ) no wrea? "u x1 d\btless to %[ ! armorial be>+s ( ! esquire or g5tleman ( blood1 z1 accord+ to ! read+s ( ,engli% blasonry1 he c\ld h be5 ( no high] degree1 = :om ?is /uff _h be5 wov54 #hcde4 ,fragm5t ( an ,ecclesia/ical ,ve/m5t2 gr\nd1 clo? ( gold1 diap]$ ) an elaborate fl[]-patt]n4 ,fr5*1 middle ( ! #af? c5tury4 #b feet #a in*es by #a foot #i in*es4 ,?is valuable specim5 ( clo? ( gold is figur$1 9 small r$ l9es1 ) a free & well-design$ patt]n1 & %[s u h[ mu* above mod]n ,fr5* & ,italian toca & lama d'oro 7 ^? f9e old clo? ( gold /uffs :i*1 9 ! #af? c5tury1 became s v>i\sly employ$ = secul> purposes4 ,let ! read] imag9e a va/ r\nd royal t5t ( su* a textile ) ! bann] ( a k+ flutt]+ ov] x1 & !n he may well conceive :y ! mead[ ^u :i* x /ood 0 call$ 8! field ( ! clo? ( gold40 #hcdf4 ,piece ( ,silk & ,l95 ,damask1 gre5 & yell[2 patt]n1 a small conv5tional fl[]1 probably a furniture /uff4 ,italian1 late #af? c5tury4 #aj in*es by #g in*es4 #hcdg4 ,piece ( ,silk ,damask1 blue & yell[2 patt]n ( fl[]s4 ,fr5*1 late #af? c5tury4 #h in*es squ>e4 ,9 ! design ( ! patt]n !re is evid5tly a wi% to indicate ! national fleur-de-lis4 #hcdh4 ,portion ( a ,h\s+ or ,saddle-clo?1 grey velvet1 embroid]$ ) int]lac$ patt]ns 9 silv] & gold ?read4 ,9 "o corn] is an armorial %ield 9 silv] & col\r$ silks4 ,spani%1 middle ( ! #af? c5tury4 #a foot #h in*es by #f in*es4 ,v probably ! blazon ( ! %ield on ?is curi\s horse-furniture may be ! cant+ arms ( its primitive own]2 & x is arg5t1 a hoopoe gules on a m\nt v]t4 #hcdi4 ,piece ( ,silk ,damask2 gre51 ) ! pomegranate patt]n4 ,fr5*1 end ( ! #af? c5tury4 #b feet #g in*es by #a foot #g in*es4 #hcej4 ,embroid]$ ,girdle2 patt]n1 rectangul>1 9 gold & silv] ?reads & crimson silk2 !re are long gold tassels at ! ends4 ,fr5*1 late #af? c5tury4 #f feet #c in*es by in*4 ,mo/ likely a liturgical girdle1 = ! use ( :i* see 8,hi]urgia10 p4 #dbf1 #bnd edition1 & 8,*ur* ( our ,fa!rs10 t4 i4 p4 #ddh4 ,su* ecclesia/ical appliances are n[ become great r>ities1 & ?\gh ?is "o is v mod]n1 x is n less valuable on t acc\nt4 ,! only o!r good example kn[n 9 ,engl& is ! v f9e & anci5t "o kept1 9 ,durham ,ca!dral ,libr>y1 among ! rema9s ( ^? ri* old ve/m5ts f\nd ^u ! body ( a bi%op mi/ak51 by ,mr4 ,ra9e1 = t ( ,/4 ,cu?b]t4 ,flat girdles1 :5ev] us$ 9 ! ,lat9 rite1 7 n>r[2 :ile ^? ( ! ,greek & ,ori5tal liturgies are mu* broad]4 #hcea4 ,l95 ,clo?2 patt]n1 a :ite diap] loz5ge4 ,flemi%1 end ( ! #af? c5tury4 ,%ape1 oval1 diamet]s #bb in*es & #ag in*es4 ,?\gh ( s simple a patt]n ! design is pleas+1 & well br\ght out4 #hceb4 ,piece ( ,silk ,damask1 sky-blue & :ite2 patt]n1 int]sect+ ribbons ) fl[]s 9 ! spaces4 ,fr5*1 late #af? c5tury4 #i in*es by #d in*es4 ,a v agreeable specim5 ( ! ta/e ( ! p]iod & c\ntry1 z well z grateful to ! eye = ! comb9ation & managem5t ( its two col\rs 9 su* a way t nei!r ov]mat*es ! o!r--a beauty (t5 =gott5 by ! design]s ( textiles1 b to be f\nd 9 sev]al o!r examples ( ! m$ival loom 9 ?is collection4 #hcec4 ,dalmatic ( ,yell[ ,silk1 damask$ ) a patt]n ( ! pomegranate =m1 9 rais$ velvet1 ( a lighti% gre5 t9t4 ,! tissue1 ,italian1 late #ae? c5tury2 ! embroid]y & inscriptions1 ,g]man1 late #ae? c5tury4 #g feet #h in*es by #d feet #c in*es4 ,?is f9e dalmatic--= ! liturgical use ( :i* ! read] may consult ! 8,*ur* ( our ,fa!rs10 t4 i4 p4 #cge--;is r curi\s = ! way 9 :i* ! two v s+ul> tassels hang+ on ! back f ! %\ld]s are ornam5t$4 ,^! usual app5dages are 9 ?is in/ance made ( rem>kably long 7#ae in*es7 flakes ( :ite1 r$1 & deep-br[n silk5 ?read1 &1 in/ead ( silk nobs at ! end ( ! cords1 h l>ge r\nd balls ( rock cry/al4 ,! orphreys1 or /ripes1 d[n bo? sides1 be=e & beh9d1 are #b in*es broad1 wov5 9 gold & *>g$ ) squ>es ( fl[]-be>+ trees1 & inscrib$ 9 blue ) 8,jhesus10 8,m>ia40 ,! fr+es on ! two l[] bord]s ( ! dalmatic1 #c in*es deep1 are alt]nately r$1 gre51 :ite1 & blue1 & ^? on ! sides & ar\nd ! sleeves are mu* n>r[]4 ,! sleeves !mselves f be+ #ah in*es wide at ! %\ld] become z n>r[ z #ab in*es t[>ds ! wri/4 ,! two app>els on ! upp] "p1 be=e & beh9d1 are wov5 9 gold1 & measure #af in*es 9 l5g?1 & #e in*es 9 bread?2 ! "o on ! back j "u ! neck is figur$ ) ?ree gold5-gr\nd$ squ>es1 ! c5tre "o ornam5t$ ) a crimson quatrefoil1 b>b$1 & enclos+ a v>i\s-col\r$ conv5tional fl[]2 ! o!r two1 ) a gre5 tree blossom$ ) r$ fl[]s3 ! app>el across ! brea/ is inscrib$ ) ! names1 9 l>ge blue lett]s1 ( 8,jhesus10 8,m>ia40 ,half way d[n ! back hangs1 transv]sely1 a %ield ( arms qu>t]ly1 "o & f\r gules1 two b>s arg5t1 betwe5 sev5 fleurs-de-lis1 or1 ?ree1 two1 & two2 two & ?ree1 sable two b>s1 arg5t3 z a cre/1 a full-=w>d op5-fac$ helmet1 ) six b>s all gold1 surm\nt$ by a pair ( horns b>r$ sable & arg5t1 ) mantl+s ( ! same4 ,?is blazon1 accord+ to ,engli% h]aldry1 w\ld indicate t ! giv] ( ?is spl5did ve/m5t--& v likely x 0 only "o ( a l>ge set--c\ld boa/1 by %[+ ! gold5 five-b>r$ full-=w>d helmet1 ( royal blood 9 8 p$igree1 & 0 n l[] ?an a ,duke 9 title4 ,dr4 ,bock has figur$ ?is f9ely-pres]v$ dalmatic 9 8 8,ges*i*te d] ,liturgis*5 ,gewnd] des ,mittelalt]s10 #d ,lief]ung1 pt4 vii4 fig4 #a4 #hced4 ,a ,cope ( ,crimson ,rais$ ,velvet2 patt]n ( ! s-call$ pomegranate design4 ,! orphreys & hood embroid]$ on a gold5 gr\nd2 ! latt] ) ! dea? ( ! ,bless$ ,virg9 ,m>y2 ! =m]1 ) v>i\s sa9ts4 ,velvet1 ,spani%1 ! embroid]y1 ,g]man1 bo? ( ! end ( ! #ae? c5tury4 #aj feet #h in*es by #e feet #h in*es4 ,! velvet1 bo? = its ruby tone & ri*ness ( pile1 is rem>kable1 :ile its design ( ! patt]n is effici5tly %[n4 ,! hood :i*1 x %\ld be obs]v$ by ^? curi\s 9 liturgical g>m5ts1 runs "r ?r\gh ! orphreys q up to ! neck1 is an elaborate & well-wr\ght piece ( ne$lework2 & /rongly rem9ds "o ( ! picture ( ! same subject--! dea?-b$ ( ! ,"m ( our ,"l--by ,m>t9 ,s*n1 n[ 9 ! ,national ,gall]y4 ,all ! ,apo/les are suppos$ to be ga!r$ r\nd h]2 to ! "r ( ! spectator /&s ,/4 ,pet] spr9kl+ h] ) holy wat] f ! silv] spr9kle 9 8 "r h&2 next to ?is *ief celebrant is ,/4 ,john1 ! acolyte1 ) ! holy wat] /oop 9 8 left h&1 & 9 8 "r ! light$ tap]1 :i* he is ab\t to put into ! h& ( 8 adopt$ "m--an emblem ( ! light$ lamp ) :i* ea* wise virg9 9 ! ,gospel await$ ! com+ ( ! bridegroom4 ,beh9d him aga91 & ) 8 back turn$1 is ano!r apo/le1 bl[+ into ! half-ext+ui%$ ?urible1 :i* he is rais+ to 8 m\?2 ! re/ ( ! ,apo/les are nicely gr\p$ ar\nd4 ,! gr\nd ( ?is hood is ( ri* gold ?read1 & ! figures ( ! sc5e are sep>ately wr\ght & aft]w>ds 8appli$40 ,! orphreys1 t are r n>r[1 measur+ only #e in*es 9 bread?1 are ( a gold5 web & figur$1 on ! "r h& side1 ) ,/4 ,m>y ,magdal51 c>ry+ a box ( o9tm5t 9 h] h&s2 ,/4 ,b]nad9 ( ,si5a1 hold+ a circul> radiat$ disc inscrib$ ) ,i4,h4,s4 9 8 "r h&1 & 9 8 left a ,lat9 cross2 ,/4 ,bicta--= s ! inscription seems to read--be>+ ! m>tyr's bran* ( palm 9 h] "r h&1 & a sword ?ru/ ?r\gh h] ?roat2 & ,/4 ,kymb]tus 9 a cope1 ) a crozi] 9 8 "r h&1 & 9 8 left a clos$ book3 on ! left h& orphrey1 ,/4 ,elizabe?1 ! ,que5 ( ,hung>y1 ) a *ild's article ( dress 9 "o h&1 & a royal cr[n ^u h] head2 ,/4 ,sev]9us1 we>+ a mitre & cope1 & hold+ 9 8 "r h& a crozi]1 9 8 left a *ur*2 ,/4 ,ursula1 ) ! m>tyr's palm 9 "o h&2 9 ! o!r a long l>ge silv] arr[1 & hav+ six ( h] m>tyr$ virg9s at h] sides2 & ,/4 ,john ,bapti/1 ) ! 8,lamb ( ,god0 on ! palm ( 8 left h&1 & ! =ef+] ( ! "r out/ret*$ z po9t+ to x4 ,! heads ( all ^! figures are done 9 silk & 8appli$10 b ! h&s & diap]+ ( ! g>m5ts1 z well z ! emblems1 are wr\ght by ! ne$le1 9 gold or 9 silk1 ^u ! gold5 web-gr\nd ( ^! orphreys4 ,at ! l[] "p ( ! hood is 8appli$0 a %ield--no d\bt ! armorials ( ! giv] ( ?is f9e cope--p>ty p] pale--gules two *evronels arg5t1 a *ief or--azure ?ree g>bs 7"o lo/71 arg5t1 two & "o4 #hcee4 ,*asuble ( ,damask ,clo? ( ,gold2 ! orphreys figur$ ) arabesques 9 col\r$ silk ^u a gold5 gr\nd1 & bu/s ( sa9ts embroid]$ 9 col\r$ silks )9 circles ( gold4 ,!re is a %ield ( arms on ! body ( ! ve/m5t1 on ! left side4 ,fr5*1 #ag? c5tury4 #g feet #c in*es by #b feet #d in*es4 ,! clo? ( gold is none ( ! ri*e/1 & may h be5 wov5 at ,lyons2 b ! orphreys are good specim5s ( _! "t3 t on ! back ( ?is ve/m5t1 #d in*es 9 wid?1 & made 9 a cross1 %[s a female sa9t hold+ a sword 9 h] "r h&1 & 9 h] left a two-ma/$ boat--p]haps ,/4 ,m>y ,magdal51 9 ref]5ce to h] p5it5ce & voyage to ,france2 ,/4 ,john ) a cup1 & ! demon s]p5t com+ up out ( x2 ! ,empress ,hel5 c>ry+ a cross 7874 ,! orphrey 9 front1 ?ree in*es broad1 gives u1 9 small] circles1 ,/4 ,simon ! apo/le ) 8 saw2 a female sa9t 7,h$wiges87 hold+ a cross2 & two prophets1 ea* ) a roll$-up scroll 9 8 h&4 ,on ! back1 & f> ap>t f ! orphrey1 is a %ield arg5t 7nicely diap]$71 a *evron sable betwe5 ?ree leaves slipp$ v]t1 hang+ z x does on ! left h&1 x may be presum$ !re 0 ano!r %ield on ! "r1 b x is gone4 ,?is *asuble1 small z x is n[1 mu/ h be5 sadly r$uc$ across ! %\ld]s1 f its orig9al bread?4 #hcef4 ,piece ( ,c>pet1 ( wool & hemp2 gr\nd1 r$2 patt]n1 b\ghs1 & fl[]s1 9 blue1 & ! s-call$ pomegranate1 blue ) a l>ge yell[ fl[] 9 ! middle2 bord]1 two /ripes blue b>r$ ) yell[1 "o /ripe yell[ b>r$ r$4 ,spani%1 #af? c5tury4 #c feet #aj in*es by #c feet #g in*es4 ,9 e way l ! foll[+ specim5 ( c>pet+1 ) its w>p ( hemp5 ?read2 & orig9ally employ$ = ! same purpose ( be+ spread up ! /eps lead+ to ! alt>1 b m especially ^u ! upp]mo/ or la/ "o = ! celebrant to /& on4 #hceg4 ,piece ( ,c>pet2 gr\nd1 d>k blue2 patt]n1 a l>ge s-call$ pomegranate design 9 light blue1 spott$ ) fl[]-l circles1 :ite & crimson 7n[ fad$74 ,at ea* end x has a bord] 9 r$1 blue1 gre51 :ite1 & yell[ l9es4 ,spani%1 #af? c5tury4 #i feet #c in*es by #h feet #f in*es4 ,! w>p1 z 9 ! =ego+ example1 is ( hemp5 ?read1 ! wo( ( wor/$2 & ?is textile 0 wov5 9 bread?s #d feet #c in*es wide4 ,9 all likelihood ?is piece ( c>pet+1 valuable because v r>e n[1 s]v$ z ! cov]+ = ! /eps t l$ up to ! alt>1 & correspond$ to :at 9 "s old ,engli% *ur* inv5tories 7 call$ p$alia1 or p$e-clo?s3--8,*ur* ( our ,fa!rs10 i4 #bfh4 ,f9] sorts 7 spread on high fea/ days ^u ! long =m :]e sat ! prec5tor ) 8 assi/ant rul]s ( ! *oir1 or ^u ! /ools :i* !y sep>ately occupi$4 ,ib4 ii4 #bjb4 #hceh4 ,liturgical ,clo? ( grey l95 ?read1 figur$ all ov] ) subjects f ! ,new ,te/am5t1 angels1 apo/les1 fl[]s1 & mon/]s4 ,rh5i%1 end ( ! #ad? c5tury4 #aj feet by #c feet4 ,?is curi\s & valuable piece1 ( ! k9d d5om9at$ 8opus araneum10 or spid]-web1 is v likely ! olde/ z well z "o among ! v f9e/ specim5s yet kn[n ( t peculi> sort ( ne$lework4 ,! design is divid$ into two l5g?s1 "o mu* %ort] ?an ! o!r1 & rev]s$2 ?us evid5tly prov+ t its orig9al use 0 to cov]1 n ! alt>1 b ! lect]n1 ^u :i* ! ,evangeli>ium1 or ,book ( ! ,gospels1 is put at high mass = ! deacon to s+ ! gospel f3 judg+ by ! subjects wr\ght ^u x1 & 9 :ite1 x appe>s to h be5 int5d$ m especially = ! daily high mass1 *aunt$ 9 _m places e morn+ 9 hon\r ( ! ,bless$ ,virg9 ,m>y4 ,beg9n+ at ! l[] "p ( ! long] l5g?1 we see an angel1 ve/$ l a deacon1 9 an app>el$ & gird$ alb1 play+ ! viol91 !n six apo/les--,/4 ,simon ) ! full]'s bat 9 8 h&1 ,/4 ,mat?ias ) sword & book1 ,/4 ,james ! ,great] ) pilgrim's b\rdon or /aff1 ,/4 ,jude1 or ,?addeus1 ) club & book1 ,/4 ,&rew ) book & saltire cross1 ,/4 ,?omas ) spe>2 !n ano!r l ve/$ angel s\nd+ a guit>--all ( :i* figures are /&+ 9 a r[ amid oak b\ghs & fl[]y bran*es4 ,high] up1 & )9 a l>ge quatrefoil encircl$ by ! words3-- 8,magnificat3 ,anima3 mea3 ,dom9um20 ! ,visitation1 or ! ,bless$ ,virg9 ,m>y & ,/4 ,elizabe?1 bo? ) out/ret*$ h&s1 "o t[>ds ! o!r1 ! fir/ z a virg9 ) h] hair hang+ d[n ^u h] %\ld]s1 ! second hav+ h] head %r\d$ 9 a hood l a m>ri$ woman2 !y /& amid lily-be>+ /ems 7sugge/$ by ! lesson read on t fe/ival f ,canticles ii472 9 ea* ( ! nor? & s\? petals ( ! quatrefoil is a kneel+ angel1 deacon-ve/$1 hold+ 9 ea* h& a bell1 :i* he is r++1 :ile 9 ! ea/ & we/ petals are o!r l-rob$ angels1 bo? inc5s+ ) a ?urible4 ,outside ! quatrefoil are repres5t$ )9 circles at ! s\?-we/ corn] ! ,briti% ,/4 ,ursula--"o ( ! patron sa9ts ( ,cologne--/&+ ) a book 9 "o h&1 & an arr[ 9 ! o!r2 at ! s\?-ea/ corn] ,/4 ,hel5 7871 ) cross & book2 at ! nor?-we/1 ,/4 ,lucy ) book & p9c]s2 at ! nor?-ea/1 a virg9 m>tyr1 ) a book & a bran* ( palm4 ,at ea* ( ! angles1 9 ! corn]s betwe5 ! petals1 is an op5 cr[n4 ,above /&s 9 ! middle a d\ble-h&l$ vase1 betwe5 two wyv]ns1 jessant oak bran*es4 ,ov] ?is species ( h]aldic bord] is ano!r l>ge quatrefoil arrang$ 9 precisely ! same mann]3 ! angels--two ) bells1 two ) ?uribles--are !re1 s too are ! corn] cr[ns1 )9 & encircl$ by ! words ,gloria3 93 exc7e7l7s7is3 ,deo3 et3 93 t]r7a71 we h ! ,assumption ( ! ,bless$ ,virg9 ,m>y1 aft] ?is mann]3 seat$ ^u a ?rone is our ,"l 9 maje/y1 t is1 cr[n$ & hold+ ! mund or ball surm\nt$ by a cross 9 ,8 left h&2 ) ,8 "r ,he is giv+ ,8 bless+ to ,8 "m1 :o is seat$ also on ! same ?rone1 cr[n$1 ) h] hair ab\t h] %\ld]s1 & ) h&s uprais$ to ,him z 9 ! act ( pray]4 ,at ! top1 to ! left1 is ,/4 ,ca!r9e1 ) a sword 9 "o h&1 a :eel arm$ ) spikes 9 ! o!r2 to ! "r1 ,/4 ,doro?y1 ) a bloom+ bran* 9 "o h& & 9 ! o!r a basket--made l a cup ) foot & /em--full ( fl[]s2 bel[1 ,/4 ,b>b>a1 ) t[] & palm-bran*1 9 ! left side2 on ! o!r1 ,/4 ,m>y ,magdal51 ) an o9tm5t box & palm4 ,"h ! design is rev]s$1 & v prop]ly s1 z o!rwise x w\ld be1 :5 ?r[n ov] ! lect]n1 upside d[n2 & curi\sly en\gh1 j at ?is place !re is a l>ge hole1 caus$1 z is cle>1 by ?is "p ( ! ne$lework be+ worn away f ! cont9ual rubb+ ( "s boss or ornam5t at ! top ( ! fold+ lect]n1 :i* mo/ likely 0 wr\ght 9 iron4 ,?is %ort] l5g? ( ! design--t portion :i* hung beh9d--beg9s ) ! d\ble-h&l$ vase & two wyv]ns1 & has b "o quatrefoil arrang$ l ! o!r two 9 ! front "p3 )9 ! circle inscrib$ ,ecce3 ancilla3 ,dom9i3 fiat3 mi*i--we see ! ,annunciation2 kneel+ be=e a l[ read+ desk1 ) an op5 book ^u x1 is ! ,bless$ ,virg9 ,m>y1 ) ! ,holy ,gho/ "u ! =m ( a nimb$ dove com+ d[n f heav51 signifi$ by ! nebul or cl\ds1 ^u h]2 & turn+ ab\t ) arms wide ap>t1 z if 9 wond]m5t1 %e is li/5+ to ,gabriel on 8 knees & speak+ 8 message 9 ^? words3--ave3 gracia3 ple7na71 trac$ ^u ! scroll1 :i*1 ) bo? 8 h&s1 he holds be=e him4 ,9 ! corn]s ( ! petals are1 at top1 to ! left1 a female sa9t1 ) a cross 9 "o h&1 a clos$ book 9 ! o!r2 to ! "r1 a female sa9t ) palm-bran* & book2 bel[1 to ! left1 a female sa9t--,/4 ,m>t9a1 ,v4 ,m4--) book & a two-prong$ & b>b$ =k2 on ! "r1 a female sa9t ) a book1 & cup ) a lid4 ,z ! o!r end began1 s ?is ends1 ) a r[ ( eight figures1 ( :i* two are angels rob$ z deacons1 "o play+ ! viol91 ! o!r ! guit>2 !n come six apo/les--,/4 ,john ! ,evangeli/ exorcis+ ! poison$ cup2 ,/4 ,b>?olomew1 ) book 9 "o h& & flay+ knife 9 ! o!r2 ,/4 ,pet]1 ) book & key2 ,/4 ,paul1 ) book & sword held upw>ds2 ,/4 ,mat!w1 ) sword held d[nw>ds1 & book2 ,/4 ,philip1 ) book & cross4 ,! figures )9 ! quatrefoils & ( ! apo/les are ab\t sev5 in*es high2 ^? ( ! female sa9ts--all virg9s1 z is %[n by ! hair hang+ 9 long tresses ab\t _! %\ld]s--measure six in*es4 ,! spaces betwe5 are fill$ 9 ) bran*es ( five-petal$ & b>b$ roses1 & at bo? ends !re orig9ally hung a prettily knott$ long fr+e4 ,all ! female sa9ts are dress$ 9 g[ns ) v long rem>kable sleeves--a fa%ion 9 woman's attire :i* prevail$ at ! end ( ! #ad? & beg9n+ ( ! #ae? c5turies4 ,! exact way 9 :i* ^! n[ v r>e specim5s ( m$ival ne$lework us$ to be employ$ 9 ! celebration ( ! liturgy1 may be se51 by a glance1 on look+ at any ( ^? engrav+s 9 :i* are figur$ a few ( ^? old lect]ns2 made ei!r ( light ?9 wood1 or iron1 or ( bronze1 s z !y c\ld be easily fold$ up3 !y 7 ?us ) read9ess c>ri$ ab\t f "o "p to ano!r ( ! *oir1 or *ancel1 ev5 by a boy4 ,:5 set d[n ! veil 0 ca/ ov] !m4 ,"s ( our own ar*ological works af=d u good examples ( su* lect]ns2 z f9e1 if n f9]1 are ^? two :i* ,m4 ,viollet ,le ,duc has giv5 9 8 in/ructive 8,dictionnaire du ,mobili] ,franais10 t4 i4 pp4 #afb1 #afc1 especially t f ! ,hotel de ,cluny4 ,speak+ ( ! cov]+s = su* lect]ns1 he tells t 9 ! treasury ( ,s5s ,ca!dral !re yet may be f\nd "o :i* is1 h[ev]1 accord+ to 8 admeasurem5ts1 mu* small] e way ?an ?is piece ( curi\s ne$lework be=e u4 ,:e!r ! "o n[ at ,s5s be ( ! #aj? or #aa? c5tury assign$ x1 f> too e>ly date to our ?9k+1 x _c1 to judge f ! col\r$ plate giv5 by ,m4 ,viollet ,le ,duc1 be put = a mom5t 9 competition ) ! pres5t "o1 z an art-"w done by ! ne$le4 ,9 our own m$ival records notices ( su* lect]ns may be sometimes f\nd2 9 ! *oir ( ,cobham ,college1 ,k5t1 ,a4,d4 #adgi1 !re 0 su* an article ( *ur* furniture1 8,*ur* ( our ,fa!rs10 ii4 #bja1 & d\btless x 0 usually cov]$ ) a veil4 #hcei4 ,*asuble ( ,silk ,damask1 gre5 & fawn-col\r$1 freckl$ 9 :ite ) small fl[]s1 inscriptions1 & o!r ornam5ts2 ! patt]n1 9 b&s1 consi/s ( a l>ge fan-l fl[]-be>+ plant1 & a d\ble-h&l$ vase1 f :i* %oots up ! ?9 /em ( a tree betwe5 two hunt+ leop>ds coll>$1 & addors$1 ) an ,arabic inscription b5ea? ! vase1 bo? plant & vase occurr+ alt]nately2 ^! b&s are sep>at$ by a n>r[] set ( b&s divid$ into squ>es enclos+ birds ( prey alt]nately g>dant segeant4 ,syrian1 late #ac? c5tury4 #i feet #e in*es by #d feet4 ,?is /uff betrays a few l+]+ traditions ( ! ,p]sian /yle ( design1 & "s p w see 9 ! little tree betwe5 ^? hunt+ leop>ds ! 8hom10 or sacr$ tree ( ! old5 belief ( t c\ntry4 ,! mat]ial ( x is ?9 & poor1 & 9 wid? x measures tw5ty-"o in*es4 ,! *>act]s "u ! vase hold+ ! leop>ds & 8hom10 are b an imitation ( ,arabic1 & h5ce we may presume t x 0 wov5 by ,jewi% or ,*ri/ian workm5 = ! ,european m>ket1 & to make x pass bett]1 z if com+ f ,p]sia1 inscrib$ z be/ !y knew h[1 ) ,arabic lett]s1 or imitations ( t alphabet4 #hcfj4 ,back ( a ,*asuble1 blue silk wr\ght all ov] ) bea/s & birds 9 gold b5ea? trees4 ,! orphrey ( crimson silk is embroid]$ ) fl[]s & armorial %ields4 ,! blue silk1 ,italian1 #ad? c5tury2 ! orphrey1 ,g]man1 #ae? c5tury4 #c feet #h in*es by #b feet #e in*es4 ,! birds t are %[n on ?is blue-gr\nd$ piece ( r %9+ silk are peah5s1 /&+ on gre5 turf spr9kl$ ) :ite fl[]s1 & ?ree v mu* l>g] fl[]s /& high above _! heads2 ! bea/s are leop>ds1 ) _! sk9 well spott$1 & !y seem to be1 z x 71 sc5t+ & scrat*+ ! gr\nd4 ,! orphrey1 cross-%ap$1 & #e in*es wide1 is ov]spread ) gracefully int]tw9$ rose-bran*es1 ! leaves ( :i* are ( gold %ad$ gre51 & ! fl[]s 9 silv]1 se$$ & b>b$4 ,x is blazon$ all ov] ) armorial be>+s1 seem+ly ( two h\ses1 ( :i* ! fir/ is a %ield1 t9cture gone1 *>g$ ) a lion rampant or1 langu$ & arm$ gules2 ! second1 a %ield1 b>ry ( twelve1 gules & or1 ) a lion rampant1 arg5t1 langu$ & arm$ azure1 9 ! dext] canton4 ,!re are ?ree ( ea* ( ^! %ields1 & all six are work$ on canvas1 & aft]w>ds sew$ on4 ,on ! upright /em ( ! cross may be read 9 places ! "n ( 8,lodewi* ,fretie10 ! individual :o bore ^? arms & gave ! *asuble4 #hcfa4 ,dalmatic ( blue silk damask$ ) gold2 ! patt]n consi/s ( alt]nate r[s ( ox51 & pelican-l birds amid fl[]s & foliage4 ,nor? ,italian1 late #ad? c5tury4 #g feet #g in*es by #d feet4 ,a r %[y piece1 & v effective 9 its patt]n1 ?\gh ! gold ab\t ! ?read ) :i* ! design is br\ght out is sp>+ly employ$1 s t x looks m yell[ ?an metallic4 ,! sleeves n[ b elev5 in*es long1 are slit q up1 & 7 v likely %ort5$ :5 ! slitt+ 0 inflict$ on !m1 & t1 )9 ! la/ hundr$ ye>s1 9 compliance ) ! some:at mod]n practice t took its rise 9 ,france4 #hchh4 ,piece ( ,embroid]y ( our ,"l ^u ,8 "m's lap4 ,flor5t9e1 #ae? c5tury4 #h in*es by #e in*es4 ,! ,bless$ ,virg9 ,m>y is rob$ 9 ! usual crimson tunic1 & sky-blue fl[+ mantle1 & be>+1 z is cu/om>y 9 ! ,italian s*ools ( art1 a gold5 /> figur$ on h] left %\ld]4 ,sitt+ ^u a tassel$ cu%ion1 & hold+ a little bird 9 ,8 left h&1 we h our ,"l q nak$1 ) ,8 cross$ nimb ab\t ,8 head4 ,^? :o br+ to m9d t lovely picture ( ,raphael's1 ! s-call$ 8,madonna del ,c>dell9o10 or our ,lady ( ! gold-f9*1 w see t su* an idea 0 an old "o :5 t pr9ce ( pa9t]s liv$4 ,?is piece ( ne$lework 0 orig9ally wr\ght = ! purpose ( be+ appli$1 & %[s on ! back pro(s t1 9 its la/ use1 x _h be5 pa/$ on to "s ve/m5t or alt>-frontal4 #hefa4 ,small ,piece ( ,silk2 gr\nd1 purple2 patt]n1 b\ghs ( gre5 leaves tw9+ amid rosettes1 gre51 "s ) crimson1 "s ) yell[ c5tres4 ,sicilian1 late #ad? c5tury4 #f in*es by #c in*es4 ,good 9 mat]ial & pretty 9 design1 ?\gh ! col\rs are n happily contra/$4 #hefb4 ,piece ( ,silk2 gr\nd1 purple2 patt]n1 circles inclos+1 "s a tree :i* sep>ates bea/s & birds1 "s a long /ripe :i* seem+ly sep>ates birds1 all 9 yell[4 ,syrian1 #ad? c5tury4 #a foot #a in*es by #g in*es4 ,! piece is s fad$ t ) mu* difficulty its design c be trac$1 b en\gh is disc]nible to %[ ! ,p]sian feel+s 9 x4 ,no d\bt ! bea/s are ! *eetah or spott$ hunt+ leop>d addors$ & sep>at$ by ! traditional 8hom10 & ! birds ov] !m1 put face to face1 b p>t$ by ! 8hom10 are eagles4 #hefc4 ,piece ( ,yell[ ,silk2 patt]n1 a broad oval1 fill$ 9 & surr\nd$ ) floriations4 ,flor5t9e1 #ae? c5tury4 #aa in*es by #g in*es4 ,! once elaborate design1 n[ indisc]nible1 0 br\ght out n by ano!r col\r$ silk b by ! ge>+ ( ! loom2 "s "o1 v rec5tly1 has tri$ to %[ x by trac+ x out 9 lead-p5cil4 #hefd4 ,piece ( ,:ite ,silk2 patt]n1 )9 circles1 two birds addors$1 reg>dant1 & sep>at$ by a tree4 ,syrian1 #ad? c5tury4 #ab in*es by #i in*es4 ,! sat9-l appe>ance & ! creamy tone ( ?is piece make x v pleas+1 & 9 x we f9d1 z 9 ,no4 #hefb1 ! same ,p]sian influ5ces2 "h1 too1 we h ! my/ic 8hom10 put 91 no d\bt1 by ,*ri/ian h&s4 #hefe4 ,piece ( ,silk ,tissue2 gr\nd1 r$2 patt]n1 embroid]y 9 v>i\s-col\r$ silks1 gold ?read1 & col\r$ small beads4 ,g]man1 #ad? c5tury4 #c- in*es by #c in*es4 ,9 mo/ ( its *>act]s ?is end ( a /ole is j l ^? atta*$ to ! f9e specim5 notic$ "u ,no4 #hehh4 #heff4 ,piece ( ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 r$2 patt]n1 squ>es fill$ 9 alt]nately ) a pair ( animals & fl[]-l ornam5ts4 ,syrian1 #ac? c5tury4 #g in*es by #b in*es4 ,! old ,p]sian tradition ( ! 8hom0 may be se5 "h divid+ ! two addors$ reg>dant lionesses1 & ! :ole design is done ) neatness4 #hefg4 ,piece ( ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 r$2 patt]n1 two pop9jays divid$ by a b[l or cup look+ mu* l a cresc5t moon1 9 an octagonal frame-"w1 all yell[4 ,spani%1 #ac? c5tury4 #h in*es by #f in*es4 ,?is /uff is ( v light mat]ial1 :i* has1 h[ev]1 kept its col\r v well4 #hefh4 ,piece ( ,gold ,tissue1 embroid]$ ) ! ne$le2 gr\nd1 gold2 patt]n1 ! ,ar*angel ,gabriel1 ) 8 head1 h&s1 folds ( 8 dress1 & l9es 9 8 w+s done by ne$le 9 diff]5t col\r$ silks4 ,italian1 #ad? c5tury4 #h in*es by #e in*es4 ,?is beautiful & r>e k9d ( textile1 comb9$ ) ne$lework1 m]its ! p>ticul> att5tion ( ^? occupi$ ) embroid]y4 ,! loom has done its "p well2 n s well1 h[ev]1 he or %e :o _h to fill 9 ! l9es1 especially ! spaces = ! h&s & head1 on :i* ! features ( ! face are r poorly m>k$4 #hefi4 ,two ,portions 7jo9$ toge!r7 ( ,gold ,tissue2 gr\nd1 gold2 patt]n1 9 v>i\s-col\r$ silks1 ( birds1 bea/s1 mon/]s1 & foliage4 ,engli% or ,fr5*1 #ac? c5tury4 #ac in*es by #b in*es4 ,among ! mon/]s1 we h ! usual h]aldic ones t s (t5 occur ^u ! textiles ( t p]iod2 b ! recurr5ce ( ! unmi/akable =m ( ! fleurs-de-lis1 ?\gh sometimes col\r$ gre51 p]suades u t ?is piece1 entirely ! produce ( ! loom1 came f ,fr5*1 v likely ,p>isian h&s1 & 0 wr\ght = female use1 z a b& or fillet to conf9e ! hair ab\t ! =ehead1 j z we see mu/ h be5 ! fa%ion 9 ,engl& at ! "t f ! m>k$ way 9 :i* t attire is %[n 9 ! illum9ations ( ,,mss4 & sepul*ral effigies ( our ,plantag5et epo*4 ,our c\ntryman1 ,john ,g>l&1 tells u1 z we notic$ 9 our ,introduction1 t wom5-weav]s1 9 _! "t1 wove su* gold5 tissues1 n only = ecclesia/ical1 b secul> uses2 & ^! two pieces seem to belong to ! latt] class4 #hegj4 ,portion ( an ,orphrey2 gr\nd1 crimson silk2 patt]n1 foliage ) fruit & fl[]s 9 gold4 ,g]man1 #ad? c5tury4 #i in*es by #c in*es4 ,s sp>+ly 0 ! gold tw9$ ab\t ! yell[ ?read1 & ( su* a debas$ amalgamation t x has almo/ entirely disappe>$1 or :]e x rema9s has turn$ black4 #hega4 ,portion ( ,gold ,tissue1 figur$ ) birds & bea/s 9 gold ^u a crimson gr\nd4 ,fr5* or ,engli%1 late #ab? c5tury4 #i in*es by #b in*es4 ,:5 new ?is textile mu/ h be5 v pretty2 b s fugitive 0 its orig9al crimson1 t n[ x looks a lighti% br[n4 ,)9 circles1 divid$ by a tree made to look l a floriat$ cross1 /&s a lion reg>dant1 & ^u ! transv]se limbs ( ! cross1 z ^u ! b\ghs ( a tree1 are p]*$ two doves2 :ile ! sp&rils or spaces betwe5 ! circles are fill$ 9 ) fleurs-de-lis gr[+ out ( leaf$ /alks4 ,?\gh1 9 aft] times1 x may h be5 appli$ to *ur* use1 x seems1 l ! specim5 "u ,no4 #hefi1 to h be5 at fir/ int5d$ = female dress1 ei!r z a girdle or head attire4 #hegb4 ,two ,portions ( ,embroid]y 7jo9$ toge!r71 ! "o %[+1 on a r$di% purple silk gr\nd1 figures ( birds & animals )9 circles1 all embroid]$ 9 gold2 ! o!r1 a simil> gr\nd & patt]n )9 loz5ges4 ,g]man1 #ad? c5tury4 #b feet #a in*es by #b in*es4 ,! figures are h]aldic mon/]s ) ! exception ( ! ?ree birds1 & are all done ) great fre$om & _s2 l ! prec$+ piece1 ?is looks z if x _h orig9ally be5 wr\ght = a lady's girdle4 ,! pres5t two portions seem f ! fir/ to h =m$ p>ts ( ! same ornam5t1 & to h be5 work$ by ! same ne$le4 #hegc4 ,small ,fragm5t ( ,r$ ,silk1 hav+ a n>r[ bord] ( purple ) loz5ge patt]n1 9 gold4 ,engli% or ,fr5*1 #ac? c5tury4 #b in*es by in*4 ,alike1 9 its orig9al use1 to ! =ego+ pieces4 #hegd4 ,two ,fragm5ts 7jo9$ toge!r7 ( ,purple ,silk1 mu* fad$1 ) a cotton wo(4 ,byzant9e1 #ab? c5tury4 #b in*es by #a in*es4 #hege4 ,two ,fragm5ts 7jo9$ toge!r7 ( ,silk & ,gold ,tissue2 gr\nd1 light crimson1 n[ q fad$1 bord]$ gre52 patt]n1 an int]lac+ /rap-"w1 9 gold4 ,engli% or ,fr5*1 #ac? c5tury4 #b in*es by #b in*es4 ,l1 = use1 to ! o!r simil> specim5s4 #hegf4 ,v small ,fragm5t ( ,gold ,tissue on a r$ gr\nd4 #ac? c5tury4 #a in*es by in*4 ,?is clo? ( gold mu/ h be5 %[y f its ri*ness4 #hegg1 #hegg;,a4 ,two small ,pieces ( ,silk1 ,tyrian purple4 ,byzant9e1 #ab? c5tury4 ,ea* #a in*es squ>e4 #hegh1 #hegh;,a4 ,two ,rosettes1 9 small gold ?read on deep purple silk1 bord]$ by an edg+ ( mu* light] purple4 #ad? c5tury4 #a in*es squ>e2 #a in* squ>e4 #hegi4 ,piece ( ,silk & ,l95 ,damask2 gr\nd1 gre52 patt]n1 a mon/] animal )9 a circle /udd$ ) full moons1 & a small] circle hold+ a cresc5t-moon /udd$ 9 l mann]4 ,syrian1 #ac? c5tury4 #a foot #h in*es by #a foot #b in*es4 ,?is bold & effective design is some:at curi\s1 exhibit+1 z x does1 a novel sort ( mon/] :i* is made up ( a dog's head & =e-paws1 w+s erect1 & a broad turn$-up bu%y tail freckl$ ) squ>es1 9 ea* ( :i* is an ornam5t affect+ sometimes ! %ape ( an ,l1 sometimes ( an ,f1 at o!rs ( an ,a4 ,ar\nd ! neck ( ?is imag9>y bea/ is a coll> :i*1 z well z ! root ( ! w+1 %[s imitations ( ,arabic *>act]s4 #hehj4 ,portion ( ,gold ,embroid]y2 gr\nd1 d>k blue silk2 patt]n1 l>ge griff9s 9 gold4 ,e>ly #ac? c5tury4 #a foot #d in*es by #ab in*es4 ,pity x is t we h su* a small "p1 & t s mutilat$1 ( :at mu/ h be5 su* a f9e specim5 ( ! ne$le4 ,?\gh ! :ole patt]n may n be made out1 en\gh rema9s to %[ t ! griff9s1 :i* 7 langu$ gules1 /ood 9 pairs & rampant1 bo? figur$ ) two-=k$ tails end+ 9 trefoils1 all work$ 9 ri* gold ?read4 #heha4 ,portion ( an ,orphrey2 gr\nd1 crimson silk2 patt]n1 />s ( eight po9ts1 )9 squ>es1 bo? embroid]$ 9 gold4 #ad? c5tury4 #e in*es by #b in*es4 ,?is is "o ( ! v few specim5s :i* h pure gold1 or p]haps only silv]-gilt wire1 )\t any admixture ( ?read 9 x1 employ$ 9 ! />s & n>r[ oblong ornam5ts 9 ! embroid]y1 ! wire itself be+ /it*$ to its gr\nd+ by ?9 l95 ?read4 ,! l>ge & small squ>es1 z well z ! bord]s1 are execut$ 9 gold-twi/$ ?read1 v poor ( its k9d4 ,! glitt]+ effect ( ! pure metal-wire is v tell+4 #hehb4 ,piece ( ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 crimson2 patt]n1 conv5tional peacocks & foliage1 9 yell[4 ,syrian1 #ac? c5tury4 #ac in*es by #i in*es4 ,a good design be/[$ ^u v ?9 mat]ials4 #hehc4 ,portion ( ,gold ,tissue2 gr\nd1 light crimson1 n[ q fad$1 edg$ gre52 patt]n1 a diap] ( int]lac+ /rap-"w4 ,engli% or ,fr5*1 #ac? c5tury4 #b in*es by #a in*es4 #hehd4 ,portion ( ,gold ,tissue2 gr\nd1 gre51 edg$ crimson2 patt]n1 loz5ge-%ap$ diap] 9 gold4 ,engli% or ,fr5*1 #ac? c5tury4 #g in*es by #a in*4 #hehe4 ,portion ( ,gold ,tissue2 gr\nd1 gre51 n[ q fad$2 patt]n1 9 gold1 almo/ all worn away1 a loz5ge diap]4 ,engli% or ,fr5*1 #ac? c5tury4 #e in*es by #a in*es4 ,?is1 z well z ! o!r two pieces imm$iately prec$+1 7 wov5 by female h&s = ! b9d+ ( ! hair4 #hehf4 ,fragm5t ( ,silk ,tissue2 gr\nd1 purple2 patt]n1 small squ>es1 gre5 & black1 enclos+ a black disk void$ 9 ! middle4 ,byzant9e 7871 #ab? c5tury4 #g in*es by #b in*es4 ,?is /uff1 :i* 0 ?9 9 its new /ate1 is n[ v tatt]$ & its col\rs dimm$4 #hehg4 ,fragm5t ( ,silk ,tissue2 gr\nd1 purple2 patt]n1 a rosette )9 a loz5ge1 ) a floral bord]4 ,italian1 #ad? c5tury4 #d in*es by #b in*es4 #hehh4 ,/ole ( ,gold ,tissue1 figur$ ) small bea/s1 birds1 & floriat$ ornam5ts1 bord]$ on "o side by a blue /ripe edg$ ) :ite & *>g$ ) ornam5tation 9 gold1 on ! o!r1 by a gre5 "o ( a l "*1 z well z by two ,lat9 inscriptions4 ,! ends1 f\r in*es long1 are ( crimson silk1 ornam5t$ ) se$-pe>ls1 small r$1 blue1 gold1 yell[1 & gre5 beads1 pieces ( gilt-silv]1 & h a fr+e ?ree in*es long1 r$ & gre54 ,sicilian1 #ac? c5tury4 #f feet by #c in*es4 ,z a piece ( textile %[+ h[ ! weav]s ( ! middle ages c\ld1 :5 !y ne$$1 ge> ! loom = an intricacy ( patt]n 9 animals z well z inscriptions1 ?is ri* clo? ( gold is a valuable specim54 ,among ! ornam5ts on ! middle b& we f9d doves1 h>ts1 ! lett] ,m floriat$1 w+$ lions1 crosses floriat$1 crosses spr\t+ out on two sides ) fleurs-de-lis1 f\r-legg$ mon/]s1 "s l w+$ lions1 "s bit+ _! tails1 doves 9 pairs uphold+ a cross1 c42 & above & bel[ ^!1 divid$ f !m by gracefully ornam5t$ b>s1 "o blue ! o!r gre51 may be read ?is inscription1--8,o spes div9a1 via tuta1 pot5s m$ic9a ,porrige subsidium1 ,o ,sancta ,m>ia1 corp4 7sic7 consortem sancte sortis patrone m9i/ram4 ,effice ,corneli me]itis 7sic7 prece regna m]i4 ,o celi porta1 nova spes mor4 7sic7 protege1 salva1 b5$ic1 sanctifica famulum tuum ,aleb]tum crucis p] s9naculum 7sic7 morbos av]te corporis et anime4 ,hoc contra signum nullum /et p]iculum4 ,o clem54 7sic7 ,dom9a spes dese'erantibus una40 ,! ends ( ?is /ole1 ,g]man "w ( ! #ad? c5tury1 wid5 l mo/ o!rs ( ! p]iod1 & 9 _! orig9al /ate seem to h be5 /udd$ ) small preci\s /ones1 ! sockets = :i* are v disc]nible amid ! beads2 & 9 ea* c5tre mu/ h be5 let 9 a t9y illum9ation1 z "o /ill is !re %[+ ! ,bless$ ,virg9 ,m>y ) our ,"l1 z a *ild1 9 h] arms2 & ?is appe>s to h be5 cov]$ ) glass4 ,amid ! beads are yet a few ?ick silv]-gilt spangles wr\ght l six-petal$ fl[]s4 ,z a /ole1 ! pres5t "o is v %ort1 ow+1 no d\bt1 to a scanty l5g? ( ! gold tissue2 9 fact1 x might easily be tak5 = a long maniple4 ,:5 x is rememb]$ t ! ,suabian h\se ( ,hoh5/auf5 reign$ 9 ,sicily = _m ye>s1 till ov]?r[n 9 ! p]son ( ! "y ,conrad91 at ! battle ( ,tagliacozzo1 by ! ,fr5* ,*>les ( ,anj\1 ,a4,d4 #abfh1 we c easily acc\nt = ,sicilian textiles ( all sorts f9d+ _! way1 dur+ ! p]iod1 into ,g]many4 ,9 8 8,ges*i*te d] ,liturgis*5 ,gewnd] des ,mittelalt]s10 #d ,lief]ung1 pt4 xviii4 fig4 #c1 ,dr4 ,bock has giv5 a figure ( ?is /ole4 #hehi4 ,piece ( ,silk & ,l95 ,tissue2 gr\nd1 yell[1 ) a b& ( crimson2 patt]n1 cr[n$ k+s on horseback amid foliage1 ea* hold+ on 8 wri/ a hawk1 & hav+ a small dog on ! crupp] ( 8 saddle4 ,sicilian1 e>ly #ac? c5tury4 #a foot #d in*es by #g in*es4 ,f a small piece to ! left1 figur$ ) :at looks l an ,engli% bloodh\nd or talbot1 x w\ld seem t we h n ! full design 9 ! patt]n ( ?is curi\s /uff1 :i* speaks s l\dly ( ! feudalism ( m$ival ,italy & o!r cont95tal c\ntries4 ,seldom 0 a k+ !n figur$ )\t 8 cr[n1 besides c>ry+ 8 hawk on h& & be+ foll[$ by 8 dogs1 l any o!r "l ( ! l&4 ,! little h\nd beh9d him is some:at s+ul>4 ,to u x appe>s curi\s t su* an elaborate & pr9cely design1 meant evid5tly = ! hang+s ( "s palace1 %\ld h be5 done 9 ! r mean mat]ials :i* we f9d4 ,p>ts seem to h be5 wov5 9 gold ?read2 b s ?9 & debas$ 0 ! metal t x is n[ q black1 & ! l95 w>p f> outweighs ! ?9 silk5 wo(4 #heij4 ,piece ( ,silk ,tissue2 gr\nd1 gre52 patt]n1 a s-call$ pomegranate ( elaborate =m1 amid fl[]s ( :ite & light purple1 n[ fad$1 bo? l>gely wr\ght 9 gold4 ,spani%1 #ae? c5tury4 #a foot #aa in*es by #a foot #b in*es4 ,n only is ! design ( ! patt]n v effective1 b ! gold1 9 :i* ! f> l>g] "p ( x is done1 looks bright & r ri*2 yet1 by exam9+ x ) a p[]ful glass1 we may discov] an +5i\s1 n to say tricki%1 way = imitat+ gold-cov]$ ?read4 ,sk9s ( ?9 vellum 7 gilt1 & n v ?ickly2 ^! 7 cut into v n>r[ filam5t-l %r$s1 & 9 ?is =m--t is1 flat ) ! %9+ side fac+ ! eye--aft]w>ds wov5 into ! patt]n z if !y 7 ?read1 a trick 9 trade :i* ! ,spani>ds le>n$ f ! ,moors4 ,! w>p is ( a poor k9d ( silk n unlike jute1 & ! wo( is p>tly ( cotton1 p>tly l95 ?read1 s t ) its mock gold filam5ts we h a %[y textile out ( *eap mat]ials2 a valuable specim5 ( ! same sort ( /uff f a ,s>ac5ic loom w be f\nd "u ,no4 #hfci1 c4 #heia1 #heia;,a4 ,two ,pieces ( ,silk ,tissue2 gr\nd1 a bright gre52 patt]n1 n complete1 b %[+ a well-manag$ ornam5tation1 consi/+ ( ! s-call$ pomegranate ) two giraffes bel[1 ! heads ( :i* are 9 gold1 n[ s fad$ z to look a purpli% black4 ,sicilian1 e>ly #ad? c5tury4 #g in*es by #d in*es2 #d in*es by #d in*es4 ,?is is a specim5 int]e/+ = sev]al reasons4 ,:5 new & fre%1 ?is /uff mu/ h be5 v pleas+2 ! elaborate design ( its patt]n1 done 9 a *e]ful spr+-l tone ( gre5 ^u a gr\nd ( a mu* light] %ade ( ! same col\r1 makes x welcome to ! eye4 ,! giraffes1 tripp+ & addors$1 ) _! long necks & p>d$ sk9s1 h some?+ l a h\s+ on _! backs4 ,f su* a quadrup$ be+ figur$ on ?is /uff1 he :o drew ! design mu/ h liv$ 9 ,africa1 or h he>d ( ! animal f ! ,moors2 he mu/ h be5 a ,*ri/ian1 too1 = gre5 be+ ,mohamm$'s own col\r1 & ev5 /ill limit$1 9 its use1 to 8 desc5dants1 no ,s>ac5ic loom w\ld h figur$ ?is /uff ) a =bidd5 =m ( an animal4 ,yet1 )al1 !re may be se5 ^u x /rong traces ( ,s>ac5ic feel+ 9 its patt]n4 ,t s+ul> ornam5t1 made up ( long z]o-l =ms plac$ f\r toge!r 9 ?ree r[s1 :i* we f9d ^u o!r examples 9 ?is curi\s collection 7,no4 #heif1 c471 seems di/9ctive ( "s p>ticul> locality2 s t we may presume ?is f9e textile to h be5 wr\ght at ! royal manufactory ( ,pal]mo1 :]e ! giraffe might h be5 well kn[n1 :]e ,s>ac5ic art-traditions a long "t l+]$2 & p c>$ no?+ = ! prohibition ( figur+ any creat$ =m1 or ( we>+ gre5 9 _! g>m5ts1 or hang+ _! walls ) silks dy$ gre52 9 "s specim5s ! z]o-l ornam5tation takes ! %ape ( our lett] ,u2 moreov] ! l>ge fea!rs 9 ! bird's long tail are sometimes s figur$4 #heib4 ,piece ( ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 r$2 patt]n1 ! ca/le ( ,ca/ile & fleur-de-lis1 bo? 9 yell[4 ,spani%1 #ac? c5tury4 #aj in*es by #f in*es4 ,?\gh ( poor & some:at flimsy silk1 ?is /uff is n )\t "s m]it1 z x %[s h[ exact 7 ! workm5 ( ^? days to be guid$ by rule 9 ! *oice ( col\r2 = in/ance1 ! t9ctures "h are correct1 s f> t metal or is put ^u col\r gules4 ,x 0 wov5 9 /ripes m>k$ by n>r[ blue l9es4 #heic4 ,portion ( "s ,liturgic ,ornam5t 7872 gr\nd1 deep blue2 patt]n1 fleurs-de-lis embroid]$ 9 gold4 ,fr5*1 #ad? c5tury4 #g in*es by #c in*es4 ,:e!r ?is fragm5t once =m$ a "p ( maniple1 /ole1 or orphrey = *asuble1 cope1 dalmatic1 or tunicle1 x is impossible to say2 h]aldically x is q correct 9 its t9cture1 & t is its only m]it4 #heid4 ,piece ( ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 fawn-col\r2 patt]n1 birds & bea/s amid foliage1 all 9 gre54 ,sicilian1 e>ly #ad? c5tury4 #aj in*es by #d in*es4 ,?\gh e "p ( ! design 9 ! patt]n ( ?is *>m+ /uff is r small1 ! :ole is admirably cle> & well r5d]$1 & we see a pair ( hawks p]*$1 a pair ( lions passant1 a pair ( flags tripp+1 a pair ( birds 7heads rev]s$71 a pair ( mon/]-birds 7p]haps wyv]ns71 & a pair ( eagles 7mu* defac$7 ) w+s display$4 ,! lions are p>ticul>ly well drawn4 #heie4 ,fragm5t ( ,silk ,tissue2 gr\nd1 crimson & gold1 ) ?ree :ite & gre5 n>r[ /ripes runn+ d[n ! middle1 & an inscription on ea* side ! /ripes4 ,spani%1 #ad? c5tury4 #g in*es by #f in*es4 ,! w>p is ( ?ick cotton ?read1 ! wo( ( silk & gold4 ,?\gh v mu* brok51 ! inscription is ,lat91 & gives b a v few entire words1 su* z 8et tui amoris 9 eis10 ) ^! fragm5ts1 8--tus4 ,re---- le tuoru--40 ,f ?is1 h[ev]1 we are w>rant$ 9 ?9k+ ?is textile to h be5 wr\ght1 n = any ve/m5t--= x is too ?ick1 except = an orphrey--b r = hang+s ab\t ! *ancel at ,:itsuntide4 ,see ,introduction1 #e4 #heif4 ,piece ( ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 light crimson2 patt]n1 9 deep br[n1 v9e-leaves )9 an ellipsis :i* has on ! out] edge a crocket-l ornam5tation1 & on bo? sides a clu/] z if ( ! lett] ,u1 arrang$ f\r 9 a r[1 "o r[ above ! o!r4 ,sicilian1 #ad? c5tury4 #h in*es by #f in*es4 ,z we saw 9 ,nos4 #heia1 #heia;,a1 s "h we see t v curi\s & n usual ornam5tation1 9 ! =m] in/ances l an ,o or z]o1 9 ! pres5t "o l ano!r lett]1 ,u4 ,! same crisp9ess 9 ! foliage may be obs]v$ "h z !re2 & 9 all likelihood bo? silks issu$ f ! same city1 p]haps f ! same loom1 b at diff]5t p]iods1 z ! "o be=e u does n come up1 by any means1 9 beauty ) ^? fragm5ts at ,nos4 #heia1 #heia;,a4 ,9 "s in/ances ! fea!rs 9 a bird's tail are made 9 ! %ape ( our capital lett] ,u4 #heig4 ,piece ( ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 blacki% purple2 patt]n1 conv5tional foliage 9 greyi% purple4 ,italian1 #ad? c5tury4 #a foot #h in*es by #a foot #f in*es4 ,! foliage1 s free & bold1 is q ( an ar*itectural "*1 & %[s a lean+ to t peculi> scroll-=m s g5]ally to be se5 on ,greek fictile vases4 ,p]haps ?is /uff 0 wr\ght at ,reggio 9 ,s\? ,italy2 b evid5tly = secul>1 n ecclesia/ical use4 #heih4 ,piece ( ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 purple2 patt]n1 l>ge mon/] birds1 &1 )9 ovals1 small] bea/s1 all 9 gold ?read1 reliev$ ) gre5 silk4 ,sicilian1 #ad? c5tury4 #b feet #d in*es by #aj in*es4 ,! design is bold & v effective1 & consi/s ( an oval bord]$ v mu* 9 ! ,s>ac5ic /yle1 )9 :i* are two leop>ds addors$ rampant reg>dant4 ,above ?is oval /& two wyv]ns ) heads av]t$ & langu$ gre5 or v]t4 ,?is alt]nates ) ano!r oval enclos+ two dog-l creatures rampant addors$ reg>dant2 above ?is two imag9>y birds1 well cre/$1 langu$ v]t1 ) heads av]t$1 & seem to be ( ! cockatoo family4 ,f ! %ape ( ?is piece1 z we n[ h x1 no d\bt its la/ use 0 = a *asuble1 b ( a v rec5t make & p]iod2 & sadly cut away at its sides4 #heii4 ,piece ( ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 gre52 patt]n1 9 light purple or violet1 an ellipsis fill$ 9 ) ,s>ac5ic ornam5tation1 hav+ bel[ two split pomegranates 9 gold1 & above1 two giraffes1 :i* alt]nate ) a pair ( long-neck$ gold-head$ birds t are flank$ by an ornam5t made up ( lett]s l ,u4 ,sicilian1 #ad? c5tury4 #a foot #aj in*es by #b feet #b in*es4 ,?\gh ?is specim5 has be5 sadly ill-us$ by "t1 & made out ( sev]al %r$s1 x evid5tly came f ! h&s t design$ & wr\ght o!r pieces 7,nos4 #heia1 #heia;,a1 #heif7 9 ?is collection4 ,^u ?is1 z ^u !m1 we h ! same elem5ts 9 ! patt]n--! ellipsis1 ! giraffes1 & t s+ul> k9d ( ornam5tation1 a sort ( lett] ,u or flatt5$ ,o1 n put 9 = any imag9>y beauty ( =m1 b to indicate ei!r place or manufactur]1 be+ a symbol :i* we h yet to le>n h[ to read & und]/&4 ,t 9 "t we %all be able to f9d out its mean+s !re c be little or no d\bt4 ,?\gh ( s pleas+ & elaborate a design1 ! /uff1 9 its mat]ials1 is none ( ! ri*e/4 #hfjj4 ,piece ( ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 yell[2 ! patt]n1 9 violet1 an ellipsis fill$ 9 ) ,s>ac5ic ornam5tation4 ,sicilian1 #ad? c5tury4 #aj in*es by #b in*es4 ,!re c be little d\bt t ?is inf]ior textile1 %[+1 z x does1 ! same feel+s 9 its patt]n1 came f ,pal]mo4 #hfja4 ,piece ( ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 yell[2 patt]n1 a broad /ripe ( gold ) n>r[ /ripes1 two 9 gre51 two 9 blue1 & yell[ b&s *>g$ ) birds & fl[]s 9 gold4 ,spani%1 late #ad? c5tury4 #ac in*es by #h in*es4 ,! n>r[ /ripes runn+ d[n ! broad "o1 & con/itut+ its design1 are ornam5t$ ) squ>e knots ( ?ree int]lac+s & a saltire ( ,/4 ,&rew's cross alt]nat+ly4 ,! b&s display birds ( ! wat]f[l g5us--a k9d ( cre/$ wild-duck--v gracefully figur$ z peck+ at fl[]s1 "o ( :i* seems ( ! wat]-lily tribe4 ,"h1 z at ,no4 #heij1 we h ! same sub/itution = gold ?read1 ( gilt vellum cut into ?read-l filam5ts1 & s wov5 up ) ! silk & cotton ( :i* ! w>p & wo( are compos$4 ,?is1 l its si/] specim51 s %[y1 is j z poor 9 mat]ial2 &1 f its ?9ness1 if may h s]v$ n s mu* = an article ( dress z = hang+s 9 *ur*es & /ate ap>tm5ts4 #hfjb1 #hfjb;,a1 ,b1 ,c1 ,d1 ,e4 ,six ,fragm5ts ( ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 fawn-col\r2 patt]n1 a floriat$ ellipsis enclos+ a pair ( eagles1 ) foliage betwe5 ! elliptical figures4 ,sicilian1 #ad? c5tury4 ,dim5sions1 all small & v>i\s4 ,9 _m respects ^! fragm5ts ( ! same piece ( tissue closely resemble ! f9e /uff "u ,no4 #heid2 ! gr\nd1 fawn-col\r1 is ! same2 ! same too--gre51 & ( ! same pleas+ tone--is ! col\r ( its patt]n1 :i*1 h[ev]1 gives u ! peculi>ity ( a knot ( two int]lac+s pl5tifully /rew$ amid ! foliage4 ,x is slightly freckl$1 too1 ) :ite4 #hfjc4 ,piece ( ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 fawn-col\r2 patt]n1 birds 9 pairs amid foliage 7all gre57 & fl[]s1 "s blue1 "s gold1 n[ fad$ black4 ,italian1 #ad? c5tury4 #ah in*es by #ab in*es4 ,n a satisfactory design1 z ! birds are 9 gre5 & h>d to be di/+ui%$ f ! heavy foliage 9 :i* !y are plac$4 ,! mat]ials1 too1 are poor & ?91 ! w>p be+ cotton4 #hfjd4 ,fragm5t ( ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 deep fawn-col\r2 patt]n1 birds peck+ at a fl[]-/em amid foliage1 all yell[1 occasionally %ad$ deep gre54 ,sicilian1 #ad? c5tury4 #f in*es by #d in*es4 ,z f> z x goes1 ! design is neat & fl[+1 ) ! peculi>ity ( ! deep gre51 n[ almo/ blue1 %ad+s bo? 9 ! birds & foliage4 ,! w>p is f9e cotton1 & ! :ole speaks ( a ,sicilian orig94 #hfje4 ,piece ( ,damask2 gr\nd1 light purple2 patt]n1 9 yell[1 a net-l broad ribbon1 )9 ! me%es ( :i* are eight-petal$ conv5tional fl[]s4 ,italian1 #ad? c5tury4 ,illu/ration3 #hfje ,,silk ,,damask4 ,italian1 #ad? c5tury4 ,v9c5t ,brooks ,day ,son1 ,li?4 ,! texture ( ! specim5 is some:at ?91 b ! tones ( its two h>moni\s col\rs are good1 & its patt]n1 9 all its p>ts1 extremely agreeable2 ^u ^? broad ribbon l9es ( ! net1 ! bran*es1 spr\t+ out into trefoils1 are gracefully made to tw9e2 & an incl9ation to figure a cr[n$ ,m on e petal ( ! fl[] inside ! me%es is v disc]nible4 ,possibly ,reggio1 s\? ( ,naples1 is ! t[n :]e ?is %[y /uff 0 wr\ght1 s]viceable alike = sacr$ & secul> employm5t4 #hfjf4 ,piece ( ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 black2 patt]n1 n easily disc]nible1 ?\gh evid5tly elaborate4 ,italian1 #ad? c5tury4 #aj in*es by #f in*es4 ,s mu* has damp injur$ ?is piece t its orig9al black has become almo/ br[n1 & its patt]n is well nigh gone4 ,9 its fre% /ate1 h[ev]1 ! design1 traces ( :i* %[ x to h be5 sket*$ 9 ! c\ntry & ab\t ! "t m5tion$1 0 ?r[n up satisfactorily1 = x 0 wov5 9 cotton f ! silk5 gr\nd ( ! piece4 #hfjg4 ,piece ( ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 fawn-col\r2 patt]n1 trefoils & v9e-leaves1 9 gre54 ,sicilian1 #ad? c5tury4 #h in*es by #d in*es4 ,illu/ration3 #hfjg4 ,,silk ,,damask4 ,sicilian1 #ad? c5tury4 ,v9c5t ,brooks ,day ,son1 ,li?4 ,l all ! o!r specim5s ( ?is k9d1 ! pres5t "o is pleas+ 9 its comb9ation ( ^? fav\rite col\rs--fawn & light gre5--z well z be+ rem>kable = ! elegance ) :i* ! foliage is made to tw9e ab\t its surface2 ! mat]ials1 too1 are ?ick & la/+4 #hfjh4 ,fragm5t ( ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 d>k blue2 patt]n 7v imp]fect 9 ! specim571 an ellipsis fill$ 9 ) ornam5tation & topp$ by a floriation1 out ( :i* issue birds' necks & heads1 all 9 light] blue1 edg$ ) :ite1 & two conv5tional wild animals 9 gold1 b n[ black ) t>ni%4 ,sicilian1 #ad? c5tury4 #f in*es by #f in*es4 #hfji4 ,piece ( ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 fawn-col\r2 patt]n1 wrea?s ( :ite fl[]s1 gre5 b\ghs be>+ :ite fl[]s1 =m+ "p ( a design 9 :i* an ellipsis 9 gre5 con/itutes a lead+ portion2 & a broad b& figur$ ) scroll-"w & an ,arabic s5t5ce1 all 9 gold4 ,sicilian1 #ac? c5tury4 #a foot #e in*es by #e in*es4 ,probably 9 ! sample be=e u we behold a "w f ! royal looms or 8tiraz0--silk-h\se--( ,pal]mo1 :5 ,sicily 0 "u ! sway ( ,france1 9 ! p]son ( a pr9ce belong+ to ! h\se ( ,anj\4 ,9 ! fir/ place1 we h ! fawn--a tone ( ! murrey col\r ( our old ,engli% writ]s--& ! light joy\s gre52 9 ! second place1 ! ellipsis 0 !re1 ?\gh our specim5 is too small to %[ x all4 ,^? n>r[ bord]s t edge ! l>ge gold5 lett]$ b& pres5t u ) a r[ ( gold5 half-moons & blue fleurs-de-lis on "o side2 on ! o!r1 a r[ ( gold5 half-moons & blue cross-crosslets3 on ! b& itself we f9d1 alt]nat+ ) foliage1 an oblong squ>e1 )9 :i* is writt5 a %ort s5t5ce 9 ,arabic--a k9dly ^w1 a wi% ( heal? & happ9ess to ! we>]--su* z 01 & /ill is1 ! cu/om among ! ,arabs4 ,sure is x t ?is textile1 if wr\ght by ,s>ac5ic h&s1 0 done "u a ,*ri/ian pr9ce1 & t pr9ce a ,fr5*man4 #hfaj4 ,piece ( ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 fawn-col\r2 patt]n1 birds & dogs 9 gre54 ,sicilian1 #ad? c5tury4 #a foot #d in*es by #aj in*es4 ,l s _m o!r specim5s ( ! ,pal]mitan loom1 bo? 9 col\rs & design1 ?is piece is r poor 9 its silk1 :i* is h>% & some:at ?94 ,! birds are a swan ruffl+ up its fea!rs at ! pres5ce ( an eagle p]*$ j ov]head1 amid bran*es & foliage 9 :i* ! trefoil ab\nds4 #hfaa4 ,piece ( ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 r$2 patt]n1 foliage 9 gre51 wild dogs 9 blue1 gold1 & :ite4 ,s\? ,italian1 #ad? c5tury4 #ae in*es by #ab in*es4 ,! wild dogs are segeant face to face1 9 pairs2 "o blue1 ! o!r gold2 "o :ite1 ! o!r gold3 & bel[ are fl[]s blue1 gold1 & :ite1 alt]nat+ l ! animals4 ,! w>p is cotton1 ! wo( silk1 & altoge!r ! /uff is co>se4 #hfab4 ,fragm5ts ( ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 black2 patt]n1 a t[] surr\nd$ by wat] & a figure hold+ a hawk1 & hawks p]*$1 9 pairs1 on trees4 ,italian1 #ae? c5tury4 #i in*es by #e in*es2 #i in*es by #d in*es4 ,pity t ?is curi\s piece is s fragm5tal & decay$ t its s+ul> design _c1 z 9 ano!r specim5 ( ! v same tissue1 all be made out4 ,:e!r x be man or woman /&+ on high outside ! t[] ) a bird at re/ on ! wri/ is "h h>d to say4 ,! ca/le is well %[n1 ) its moat1 & its draw-bridges--= x has m ?an "o--all d[n4 ,l ,no4 #hfjf1 x %[s its patt]n by ! diff]5ce ( mat]ial 9 ! w>p & wo(4 ,all ov] x has be5 ?ickly spr9kl$ ) ?9 gilt trefoils t 7 n sew$ b glu$ on2 _m h fall5 (f1 & ^? rema9+ h turn$ black4 ,see ,no4 #gjfe4 #hfac4 ,piece ( ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 black2 patt]n1 9 gold ?read1 birds amid foliage4 ,italian1 #ad? c5tury4 #ad in*es by #g in*es4 ,! bold & facile patt]n ( ?is piece is v conspicu\s1 ) its eagles /oop+ ^u long-neck$ birds p]*$ on wav+ b\ghs2 to mu* beauty 9 design x adds1 moreov]1 ri*ness 9 mat]ial4 #hfad4 ,piece ( ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 light br[n2 patt]n1 ! same col\r1 palmettes & rosettes1 ) ,arabic s5t5ces repeat$4 ,atta*$ is a piece ( gre5 silk wr\ght ) gold4 ,sicilian1 #ad? c5tury4 #af in*es by #ae in*es4 ,a quiet b ri* /uff1 & especially noticeable = its ,arabic or imitat$ ,arabic inscriptions1 "o )9 ! rosettes1 ! o!r all r\nd ! inn] bord] ( ! palmettes or elliptical ornam5tations4 ,! clo? ( gold is pla94 #hfae4 ,piece ( ,l951 block-pr9t$ 9 a patt]n compos$ ( birds & foliage4 ,flemi%1 late #ad? c5tury4 #a foot #i in*es by #c in*es4 ,( ?is k9d ( block-pr9t$ l951 ) its graceful design 9 black ^u a :ite gr\nd1 !re are o!r good examples 7,nos4 #gjbg & #hcjc7 9 ?is collection4 ,f ! m>ks ( use ^u its canvas l9+1 ?is long n>r[ /rip w\ld seem to h once s]v$ z an app>el to an amice 9 "s poor *ur*4 #hfaf4 ,portions ( ,crimson ,silk1 brocad$ 9 gold2 ! patt]n1 angels hold+ cresc5ts b5ea? cr[ns1 f :i* come rays ( glory1 & hunt+ leop>ds seiz+ on gazelles4 ,italian1 end ( #ad? c5tury4 #b feet #h in*es by #b feet4 ,?is ri* /uff betrays 9 its design an odd mixture ( ,asiatic & ,european feel+2 we h ! ea/]n hunt+ lion spott$ & coll>$ blue1 p\nc+ on ! gazelle or antelope1 :i* is coll>$ too2 s f> we h ! imitation1 b )\t lett]+1 ( a ,p]sian or ,asiatic patt]n4 ,) ?is we f9d ,european1 or at lea/ ,*ri/ian1 angels1 clo!d 9 :ite1 b ) su* curi\s nebule-nimbs ab\t _! heads z to make _! br[s look horn$1 m l spirits ( evil ?an ( good4 ,! op5 cr[ns are ?or\ghly aft] a we/]n design2 & ! head & %\ld]s ( a w+$ figure1 to ! left1 %[ t we h n ! entire design be=e u4 ,f ! graceful way 9 :i* ! figures are made to float1 z well z f sev]al little ?+s ab\t ! scrolls1 we may safely conclude t ! design] ( ! patt]n liv$ 9 upp] ,italy1 & t ?is co/ly & elegant brocade 0 wr\ght at ,lucca4 ,( ! ,ori5tal elem5ts ( ?is patt]n we h said a few words at ,no4 #hbhh4 #hfag4 ,/ole ( deep purple silk1 brocad$ 9 gold & crimson2 patt]n1 a long fl[]-be>+ /em1 & l>ge fl[]s4 ,italian1 e>ly #ae? c5tury4 #i feet #f in*es by #d in*es4 ,l all ! old /oles1 ?is is s long z almo/ to rea* d[n to ! feet1 & is r broad] ?an usual1 b does n wid5 at ! ends1 :i* h a long gre5 fr+e4 ,! /uff is ( a ri* texture1 & ! patt]n good4 #hfah4 ,"p ( a ,l95 ,clo?1 embroid]$ ) sacr$ subjects1 & inscrib$ ) ! names1 9 ,lat91 ( ! ,evangeli/s4 ,g]man1 end ( ! #ad? c5tury4 #f feet by #d feet4 ,un=tunately1 ?is curi\s & v valuable sample ( ,rh5i% ne$lework is f> f be+ complete1 & has lo/ a good "p ( its orig9al composition on its edges1 b mu* m lam5tably on ! "r h& side4 ,n = a mom5t c we ?9k x to h be5 an alt>-clo? prop]ly s-call$1 t is1 = spread+ out ov] ! table itself ( ! alt>2 b1 9 all likelihood1 x 0 us$ z a r]$os or ornam5t ov] b beh9d ! alt>1 z a cov]+ = ! wall4 ,ano!r beautiful specim5 ( ! same k9d has be5 already notic$ "u ,no4 #hceh1 = ?r[+ ov] ! deacon's & subdeacon's lect]n at high mass2 &1 f ! fact t1 9 bo? in/ances1 ! subjects figur$ are 9 especial hon\r ( ! ,b4 ,v4 ,m>y1 x w\ld seem t1 9 _m ,g]man *ur*es1 & foll[+ a v anci5t tradition t ! ,bless$ ,virg9 wr\ght dur+ all h] girlhood days ornam5ts = ! ,temple ( ,j]usalem ) h] ne$le1 ! cu/om 0 to h = ! 8,m>y ,mass10 & = alt>s d$icat$ "u h] "n1 z _m liturgical appliances z might be ( ?is sort ( :ite ne$lework1 & done by maid5s' h&s4 ,9 ! c5tre we h ! coronation ( ! ,b4 ,v4 ,m>y1 execut$ aft] ! ord9>y fa%ion1 ) h] hair fall+ d[n h] %\ld]s1 & a cr[n ^u h] head2 %e is sitt+ ) arms uplift$ 9 pray]1 ^u a ,go?ic ?rone1 by h] ,div9e ,son1 :o1 :ile hold+ ! mund 9 ,8 left1 is bless+ ,8 "m ) rais$ "r h&2 ov]-head is hov]+ an angel ) a ?urible2 at ea* ( ! f\r corn]s is an ,evangeli/ repres5t$1 n only by 8 usual emblem1 b ann\nc$ by 8 "n 9 ,lat94 ,at fir/ sight ! angel1 ! emblem ( ,/4 ,mat!w might be tak5 = ,gabriel ann\nc+ ! ,inc>nation to ! ,b4 ,v4 ,m>y4 ,above & ar\nd are circles =m$ ( ! ,nor!rn ,krak51 f\r 9 numb]1 put 9 orb1 & runn+ r\nd an elaborately floriat$ ,greek cross1 symboliz+ ! victory ( ,*ri/ianity ov] hea!nism4 ,9 _m places1 )9 a gracefully tw9+ wrea? ( trefoil leaves & roses b>b$1 is ! lett] ,g1 v probably ! initial ( ! fair h& :o wr\ght & gave ?is beautiful "w to our ,lady's alt>2 & ! spaces betwe5 ! subjects are fill$ 9 ) well-manag$ bran*es ( ! oak be>+ acorns4 ,to ! left is se5 a h9d or c\ntryman hood$1 c>ry+1 hung d[n f a long club borne on 8 %\ld]1 a dead h>e2 & fur!r on1 /ill to ! left1 an old man :o ) a lance is try+ to slay an unicorn t is runn+ at full spe$ to a maid5 :o is sitt+ ) h] hair hang+ ab\t h] %\ld]s1 & /rok+ ! =ehead ( ! animal ) h] left h&4 ,! symbolism ( ?is curi\s gr\p1 n (t5 to be met )1 significative ( ! my/]y ( ! ,inc>nation1 is ?us expla9$ by ! ,anglo-,norman poet1 ,phillippe de ,?aun1 :o wrote 8 valuable 8,be/i>y0 9 ,engl& = ! in/ruction ( 8 patroness1 ,adelaide ( ,l\va9e1 ,que5 to our ,h5ry ,i3--8,monoc]os is an animal :i* has "o horn on its head2 x is caught by means ( a virg93 n[ he> 9 :at mann]4 ,:5 a man int5ds to hunt x & to take & ensn>e x1 he goes to ! =e/ :]e is its repair1 !re he places a virg9 ) h] brea/ uncov]$1 & by its smell ! monoc]os p]ceives x2 !n x comes to ! virg9 & kisses h] brea/1 falls asleep on h] lap1 & s comes to its dea?3 ! man arrives imm$iately1 & kills x 9 its sleep1 or takes x alive & does z he likes ) x4444 ,a bea/ ( ?is description signifies ,jesus ,*ri/2 "o ,god he is & %all be1 & 0 & w cont9ue s2 he plac$ himself 9 ! virg91 & took fle% = man's sake3 a virg9 %e is & w be1 & w always rema94 ,?is animal 9 tru? signifies ,god2 "k t ! virg9 signifies ,/4 ,m>ye2 by h] brea/ we und]/& simil>ly ,holy ,*ur*2 & !n by ! kiss x ought to signify t a man :5 he sleeps is 9 semblance ( dea?2 ,god slept z a man1 :o suff]$ dea? on ! cross1 & ,8 de/ruction 0 our r$emption1 & ,8 lab\r our repose10 c4--8,popul> ,treatises on ,sci5ce writt5 dur+ ! ,middle ,ages1 c41 & edit$ = ! ,hi/orical ,society ( ,sci5ce by ,t4 ,wright10 pp4 #ha1 #hb4 ,! figure ( ! c\ntryman c>ry+ (f ! h>e is br\ght =w>d 9 illu/ration4 ,z ! r\gh co>se cl[n1 pr[l+ ab\t ! l&s ( 8 "l1 wilily entraps ! h>e 9 8 hidd5 sn>es1 s does ! devil1 by allurem5ts to s91 /rive to cat* ! s\l ( man4 ,^! int]e/+ symbolisms end ! left-h& portion ( ! r]$os4 ,go+ to ! "r1 we f9d t "p torn & injur$ 9 su* a way t x is evid5tly %orn ( its due portions1 & mu* ( ! orig9al s completely gone t we are unable to haz>d a conjecture ab\t ! subject :i* 0 figur$ !re4 #hfai4 ,piece ( ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 rose-col\r$2 patt]n1 peacocks1 eagles1 a small nondescript animal1 & a lyre-%ap$ ornam5t1 all 9 gre51 t\*$ ) :ite4 ,italian1 late #ad? c5tury4 #aa in*es by #aj in*es4 ,a curi\s design1 9 :i* ! birds are boldly & freely drawn4 ,ea* horn ( ! lyre-%ap$ ornam5t ends1 b5d+ outw>dly ) :at to h]ald's eyes seems to be two w+s conjo9$ erect4 #hfbj4 ,piece ( ,silk & ,gold ,damask2 gr\nd1 d>k blue1 9 "s places fad$2 patt]n1 a b& *>g$ ) squ>es 9 gold1 e alt]nate "o inscrib$ ) ! same %ort ,arabic ^w1 lions 9 gold b5ea? a tree 9 light blue %ad$ :ite1 & cockatoos 9 gold4 ,syrian1 #ad? c5tury4 #ai in*es by #ac in*es4 ,s /rong is ! lik5ess betwe5 ?is & ! /uff at ,no4 #hcei1 bo? 9 ! texture ( ! silk & ! treatm5t ( ! bea/s & birds1 t we are l$ to suppose !m to h come f ! same id5tical work%op4 ,t tree-l ornam5t1 "u :i* ! %aggy long-tail$ lion ) d[n-b5t head is creep+1 seems ! tradition>y =m ( ! ,p]sians' 8hom40 ,! gold is1 9 mo/ p>ts1 v brilliant1 ow+ to ! broadness ( ! metal wrapp$ r\nd ! l95 ?read t holds x2 &1 altoge!r1 ?is is a ri* specim5 ( ! ,syrian loom4 #hfba4 ,piece ( ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 fawn-col\r2 patt]n1 foliage 9 gre51 fl[]s1 "s :ite1 "s 9 gold1 & lions 9 gold4 ,sicilian1 late #ad? c5tury4 #bb in*es by #aj in*es4 ,! w>p is ( l951 & ! silk5 wo( is ?92 s sp>+ly 0 ! gold be/[$1 t x has almo/ entirely fad$2 altoge!r1 ?is specim5 %[s a good design wa/$ ^u v poor mat]ials4 ,9 ! exp&+ "p ( ! foliage !re seems to be a slight remembrance ( ! fleur-de-lis patt]n1 & ! lions are sejant addors$ reg>dant4 #hfbb1 #hfbc4 ,two ,portions ( ,silk ,damask2 9 bo?1 ! gr\nd1 fawn-col\r2 ! patt]n1 9 ! "o1 ramifi$ foliage1 amid :i* two lions sejant reg>dant1 9 gold2 9 ! o!r1 two eagles at re/ reg>dant1 9 gre51 divid$ by a l>ge gre5 conv5tional fl[]1 includ+ ano!r su* fl[] 9 gold4 ,sicilian1 #ad? c5tury4 #aa in*es by #e in*es2 #i in*es by #d in*es4 ,v likely f ! same loom z ,no4 #hfba1 & e way correspond+ to x4 #hfbd4 ,piece ( ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 pale br[n2 patt]n1 9 a light] tone1 /ags & sunbeams1 & bel[ eagles )9 hexagonal comp>tm5ts4 ,sicilian1 late #ad? c5tury4 #ah in*es by #ad in*es4 ,! /ags1 well attir$1 are 9 pairs1 c\*ant1 *a9$1 ) heads upturn$ to sunbeams d>t+ d[n on !m1 ) spots l ra9 com+ amid ^! rays2 b5ea? ^! /ags are eagles4 ,! mat]ial is v ?9 & poor = su* a pleas+ design4 ,9 a mu* ri*] mat]ial "p ( ?is same patt]n is to be se5 at ,no4 #acaj4 #hfbe4 ,piece ( v f9e ,l954 ,ori5tal4 #b feet #d in*es by #a foot #e in*es4 ,?is is ano!r ( ^? rem>kably delicate textiles = :i* ,egypt ( old 01 & ,india = ages has be51 s celebrat$4 ,a f9e specim5 has be5 already notic$ at ,no4 #hbcj2 b to indicate ! c\ntry or ! p]iod ( ei!r w\ld be b haz>d+ a conjecture4 ,surplices 7 (t5 made ( su* f9e transp>5t l951 z is %[n by illum9at$ ,,mss4 ,see 8,*ur* ( our ,fa!rs10 t4 ii4 p4 #bj4 #hfbf4 ,piece ( ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 fawn-col\r2 patt]n1 fl[]s & birds1 bo? 9 gre54 ,italian1 end ( #ad? c5tury4 #aa in*es by #h in*es4 ,illu/ration3 #hfbf ,,silk ,,damask4 ,italian1 #ad? c5tury4 ,v9c5t ,brooks ,day ,son1 ,li?4 ,! birds are 9 two pairs1 "o at re/1 ! o!r on ! w+ d>t+ d[n2 betwe5 !m is an ornam5t some:at he>t-%ap$1 ar\nd :i* runs an inscription ( imitat$ ,arabic4 ,mo/ likely ?is silk is ( ,sicilian "w4 #hfbg4 ,piece ( ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 d>k blue2 patt]n1 loz5ge-%ap$ comp>tm5ts1 fill$ 9 ) quadrangul> designs v>y+ alt]nately4 ,spani%1 late #ad? c5tury4 #aj in*es by #h in*es4 ,!re is a ,moori% influ5ce 9 ! design1 :i* leads to ! supposition t ?is /uff 0 wr\ght some:]e 9 ! ,s\? ( ,spa94 #hfbh1 #hfbh;,a4 ,two ,fragm5ts ( ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 light yell[2 patt]n1 fl[]s & birds1 ) ! lett]s ,a & ,m cr[n$1 all 9 pale r$4 ,italian1 late #ad? c5tury4 #f in*es by #e in*es2 #f in*es by #c in*es4 ,a v pleas+ design1 9 nicely ton$ col\rs1 & evid5tly wr\ght = hang+s1 or p]haps curta9s1 ab\t ! alt> ( ! ,b4 ,v4 ,m>y1 z we h ! :ole spr9kl$ ) ! cr[n$ lett]s ,a ,m1 significative ( 8,ave ,m>ia40 #hfbi4 ,fragm5t ( ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 purple2 patt]n1 f\r gre5 h>es 9 a p>k wall$1 ) conv5tional fl[]s1 yell[4 ,italian1 late #ad? c5tury4 #e in*es by #d in*es4 ,! col\rs1 bo? ( ! gr\nd & design1 ( ?is piece are mu* fad$1 s t x becomes h>d1 at fir/ sight1 to make out ! patt]n1 especially ! f\r gre5 h>es tripp+ )9 a p>k1 :i*1 in/ead ( be+ %[n ) pales1 has a wall r\nd x4 #hfcj4 ,fragm5t ( ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 r$2 patt]n1 foliage & fl[]s 9 gre51 ) animals1 alt]nately 9 gold & d>k blue4 ,italian1 late #ad? c5tury4 #e in*es by #d in*es4 ,?\gh ! mat]ials be ?91 ! design is int]e/+ & displays ta/e4 ,! animals1 seem+ly fawns1 are lodg$1 b s sp>+ly 0 ! gold be/[$ ^u its cotton ?read t x has almo/ entirely disappe>$ f ! w\ld-be gold5 de]4 #hfca4 ,fragm5t ( ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 deep purple2 patt]n1 a circle inclos+ a he>t-%ap$ floral ornam5t1 9 r$1 ) an indi/9ct ornam5t1 once gold4 ,s\? ( ,spa91 #ad? c5tury4 #f in*es by #e in*es4 ,! col\rs ( :at may h be5 a ri* /uff1 z well z ! brightness ( ! gold1 are mu* dull$4 #hfcb4 ,piece ( ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 pale yell[2 patt]n1 v9e-leaves & grapes1 ) ! lett] ,a1 all 9 light purple4 ,italian1 late #ad? c5tury4 #aa in*es by #c in*es4 ,"o ( ^? *e]ful designs :i* are to be f\nd 9 ?is collection2 & _h ! specim5 be5 l>g]1 v likely an ,m w\ld h be5 %[n "u ! ,a4 #hfcc4 ,piece ( ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 purple2 patt]n1 )9 int]lac+ /rapwork =m+ a squ>e1 two p>rots addors$ alt]nat+ ) two dogs addors$1 all yell[1 ) ornam5tations ( small circles & fl[]s1 once gold1 b n[ s t>ni%$ t !y look black4 ,sicilian1 #ad? c5tury4 #e in*es by #e in*es4 ,"o ( ^? specim5s :i* w be s\ght by ^? :o want examples ( /uffs figur$ ) animals4 ,?is /uff is %ewn 9 ,dr4 ,bock's 8,dess9ateur p\r ,et(fes10 c4 #c ,livraison4 #hfcd4 ,piece ( ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 fawn & gre52 patt]n1 small squ>es enclos+ leaves1 birds1 & bea/s alt]nately4 ,italian1 #ad? c5tury4 #g in*es by #c in*es4 ,?\gh small1 ! patt]n is good & comes f ei!r a ,sicilian or a ,reggio loom4 ,lions1 & /ags ) bran*+ horns1 eagles1 p>rots1 & undeciph]able birds1 9 braces ) necks cross+ "o ano!r1 are to be f\nd ^u x2 among ! foliage ! v9e-leaf prevails4 #hfce4 ,alt> ,frontal ( ,l951 embroid]$ ) ! filfot 9 :ite ?read freckl$ ) spots 9 blue & gre5 silk1 & loz5ge-%ap$ ornam5ts 9 blue1 gre51 & crimson silk4 ,g]man1 #ad? c5tury4 #c feet #aj in*es squ>e4 ,!re c be little d\bt b ?is piece ( ne$lework 0 orig9ally meant = an alt> frontal1 & its curi\s b co>s] l9+1 may h be5 wr\ght = ! same sep>ate b di/9ct purpose4 ,! filfot or gammadion1 a fav\rite object ^u ve/m5ts1 is its *ief adornm5t1 :ile its l9+1 a "w ( a c5tury lat]1 is work$ ) a palm-l design 9 ?ick l95 ?read4 ,at a lat] "t1 x seems to h be5 employ$ z a cov]+ to ! table itself ( ! alt>1 & is pl5tifully spr9kl$ ) spots ( wax-dropp+s4 #hfcf4 ,piece ( ,l95 ,clo?1 embroid]$ ) filfots1 "s 9 :ite1 "s 9 blue silk4 ,g]man1 #ad? c5tury4 #a foot #aa in*es by #i in*es4 ,?is h&some piece ( nap]y 0 evid5tly wov5 = ! s]vice ( ! *ur*1 & may h be5 int5d$ ei!r = frontals to hang 9 front ( ! alt>1 or z curta9s to be susp5d$ away f1 b yet close to1 ! alt>-table on ! nor? & s\? sides4 ,! fav\rite gammadion appe>s bo? 9 ! patt]n ( ! loom-"w & 9 ! embroid]ies wr\ght by h&1 sometimes 9 blue1 sometimes 9 :ite silk1 ^u x4 #hfcg4 ,piece ( ,silk & ,gold ,damask2 gr\nd1 gre52 patt]n1 fl[]-be>+ /ems1 9 gold1 amid foliat$ trac]y ( a deep gre5 tone1 all enclos$ by a gold5 elliptical bord]4 ,italian1 e>ly #ae? c5tury1 #aa in*es by #g in*es4 ,?is ri* & pleas+ /uff is mo/ likely f ! loom ( "s work%op 9 ,lucca & 0 manufactur$ = secul> purposes1 & des]ves att5tion n only = ! goodness ( its mat]ials1 b = ! beauty ( its design4 #hfch4 ,,piece ( ,?read & ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 purple slightly mix$ ) crimson2 patt]n1 v9e-bran*es be>+ grapes & t5drils all 9 gre51 amid :i* are wyv]ns 9 gold1 langu$ gre54 ,s\? ,italian1 #ae? c5tury1 #a foot #a in* by #i in*es4 ,! w>p is ( ?read1 & ! wo( ( silk4 ,su* 0 ! pov]ty ( ! gold ?read 9 ! wyv]ns1 t x has almo/ entirely dropp$ (f or turn$ black4 ,?is specim5 %[s h[1 sometimes1 a ri* patt]n 0 ?r[n away ^u mean mat]ials4 ,its uses seem to h be5 secul>4 #hfci4 ,piece ( ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 gold2 patt]n1 a circle %[+1 9 its l[] half1 a cresc5t moon & an eight-petal$ fl[]1 9 ! r\nd c5tre ( :i* is an ,arabic inscription1 all 9 black1 & ! spaces fill$ 9 ) a ,s>ac5ic scroll 9 light blue1 light gre51 & crimson 7n[ fad$74 ,moresco-,spani%1 #ad? c5tury4 #a foot #a in*es by #e in*es4 ,?is unmi/akeable specim5 ( a ,s>ac5ic loom w\ld seem to h be5 wr\ght some:]e 9 ! s\? ( ,spa91 may be at ,granada1 ,seville1 or ,cordova4 ,z a sample ( its k9d x is valuable1 %[+1 z x does1 t ! same feel+s :i* manife/$ !mselves ^u ,moori% ornam5tation = ar*itecture 7 display$ 9 ! patt]ns ( textiles among t p4 ,! fraud1 s to say1 ( gilt %r$s ( p>*m5t = ?reads cov]$ ) gold is exemplifi$ "h2 & h5ce we may ga!r t ! ,spani>ds ( ! m$ival p]iod le>n$ ?is trick f _! ,s>ac5ic tea*]s 9 ! arts ( ! loom4 ,z 9 ,no4 #heij1 c41 s "h1 ! gold gr\nd is wr\ght1 n 9 ?read tw9$ ) gold foil1 b ) gilt vellum cut into v n>r[ filam5ts1 & work$ into ! w>p s z to lie q flat4 #hfdj4 ,piece ( ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 light blue2 patt]n1 a circle elaborately fill$ 9 ) a wrea? ( leaves edg$ ) a hoop ( fleur-de-lis1 & enclos$ 9 an oblong g>l& made up ( b\ghs & fl[]s1 9 a slightly deep] tone ( ! same blue4 ,italian1 e>ly #ae? c5tury4 #a foot by #h in*es4 ,s v l 9 design to ,no4 #hfcg1 t we may presume x to h be5 wr\ght at ,lucca4 #hfda4 ,"p ( an ,orphrey2 gr\nd1 once crimson1 b n[ fad$ to a light br[n col\r2 patt]n1 quatrefoils1 ) angles betwe5 ! leaves1 embroid]$ ) male sa9ts 9 v>i\s col\rs ^u a gold5 gr\nd4 ,ea* quatrefoil is sep>at$ by a knot ( ?ree int]lac+s1 & ! sides fill$ 9 ) a pair ( pop9jays1 gold & gre51 & two b\ghs ( ! oak be>+ acorns1 alt]nately4 ,on bo? sides runs a bord] =m$ ( a scroll ( v9e-leaves1 done alt]nately 9 gold & silv]1 ^u a gre5 silk gr\nd4 ,nor? ,italian1 #ae? c5tury4 #b feet #g in*es by #e in*es4 ,! :ole ( ?is elaborate piece ( ne$lework has be5 done ) mu* c>e1 & 9 ri* mat]ials2 b z ! sa9ts h no peculi> emblems giv5 !m1 _! id5tification is beyond hope4 ,:e!r = cope or *asuble--= x might h s]v$ = ei!r ve/m5t--?is embroid]y mu/ h be5 v effective1 f ! bold rais$ nature ( mu* ( its ornam5tation4 #hfdb1 #hfdb;,a4 ,two ,pieces ( ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 gre5 & fawn2 patt]n1 int]tw9+ bran*es ( ! v9e1 ) bun*es ( grapes4 ,sicilian1 #ad? c5tury4 #i in*es by #d in*es2 #f in*es by #d in*es4 ,ano!r ( ^? graceful gre5 & fawn-col\r$ silks almo/ id5tical 9 patt]n ) o!rs we h se5 f ! same c\ntry4 #hfdc4 ,piece ( ,net-"w2 gr\nd1 reticulat$ pale br[n silk2 patt]n1 a sort ( loz5ge1 9 gre5 & 9 br[n silk1 h&-embroid]$4 ,g]man1 #ad? c5tury4 #g in*es by #e in*es4 ,f ! circul> %ape ( ?is piece x seems to h be5 a portion ( female attire1 mo/ likely = ! %\ld]s4 ,"o ( its ornam5ts looks v l a modification ( "o =m ( ! h]aldic mill-r9d1 ) ! angul> /ructure4 #hfdd4 ,portion ( an ,orphrey2 gr\nd1 gold2 patt]n1 a %ield ( arms1 & an inscription 9 purple lett]s1 repeat$4 ,g]man1 #ae? c5tury4 #a foot #i in*es by #b in*es4 ,?is specim5 ( ! ,g]man loom may h be5 wov5 at ,cologne1 probably = ! n>r[ orphreys ( a :ole set ( ve/m5ts giv5 to ! *ur* by "s ,du*ess ( ,cleves1 ( ! "n ( ,elizabe? ,vancleve1 s9ce1 to su* a lady1 ! blazon & ! inscription po9t4 ,! %ield is p>ty p] pale gules1 an esc>buncle or2 & purpure1 a lion rampant arg5t1 b>r$ gules1 ducally cr[n$ & arm$ or4 #hfde4 ,piece ( ,l952 gr\nd1 light br[n2 patt]n1 small blue squ>es or loz5ges1 sep>at$ into broad b&s by n>r[ /ripes1 once ornam5t$ ) gre5 loz5ges & bord]$ all along by r$ l9es4 ,g]man1 #ae? c5tury4 #a foot by #g in*es4 ,! w>p & wo( are l95 ?read2 ! gre5 ( ! n>r[ /ripes1 f ! small rema9s1 appe>s to h be5 wooll54 #hfdf4 ,fragm5t ( a ,piece ( ,silk & ,gold ,embroid]y on ,l952 gr\nd1 z x n[ looks1 yell[2 patt]n1 int]lac+ /rapwork1 =m+ spaces *>g$ ) ! armorial be>+s ( ,engl&1 & o!r blazons1 rudely work$4 #ad? c5tury4 #e in*es by #c in*es4 ,s fad$ are ! silks1 & s t>ni%$ ! gold ?read us$ = ! embroid]y ( ?is piece1 t1 at fir/ sight1 ! t9ctures ( ! blazon are n disc]nible4 ,9 ! c5tre we h ! ?ree gold5 lib>ds or lions ( ,engl&1 & ! silk ( ! gr\nd or field1 on n>r[ exam9ation1 we f9d to h be5 sc>let or gules2 imm$iately bel[ is a %ield qu>t]ly1 #a & #d or1 a lion rampant gules1 #b & #c sable1 a lion rampant or2 imm$iately above1 a %ield gules1 ) ?ree pales azure 7871 ea* *>g$ ) :at are seem+ly tall crosses 7,/4 ,an?ony's7 or2 above1 ! %ield ( ,engl&2 b to ! "r h&1 on a field b>ry ( twelve azure & or1 a lion rampant gules2 bel[ ?is %ield1 ano!r1 on a field or1 two b>s sable2 ^! two %ields alt]nate on ! o!r side4 ,! /rapwork all ab\t is fretty or1 on a field gules4 #hfdg4 ,piece ( ,silk & ,gold ,damask2 gr\nd1 crimson1 spr9kl$ ) gold />s2 patt]n1 ! ,annunciation4 ,italian1 #ad? c5tury4 #a foot #a in*es by #h in*es4 ,9 ?is admirable specim5 ( ! ,flor5t9e loom we h %[n u ! ,b4 ,v4 ,m>y n q b>e-head$1 b p>tly hood$ & nimb$1 z que5-l %e sits on a ?rone1 ) h] arms meetly fold$ on h] brea/1 ! :ile %e li/5s to ! words ( ! angel :o is on 8 knees be=e h]1 & uplift+ 8 h& 9 ! act ( speak+ a b5$iction1 :ile 9 8 left he holds ! lily-bran*1 correctly--:i* is n always s 9 artworks--bloom+ ) ?ree1 & only ?ree1 full-bl[n fl[]s4 ,above ! ar*angel ! ,holy ,gho/ is com+ d[n f heav5 9 %ape ( a dove1 f ^: beak d>t =? long rays ( light t[>d ! head ( ,/4 ,m>y4 ,! great] "p ( ! subject is wr\ght 9 gold2 ! faces1 ! h&s1 & fl[]s are :ite1 & a v small portion ( ! drap]ies blue4 ,! draw+ ( ! figures is q aft] ! ,umbrian s*ool1 &1 !re=e1 n m]ely good1 b beautiful4 ,9 8 8,ges*i*te d] ,liturgis*5 ,gewnd] des ,mittelalt]s10 #a ,lief]ung1 pl4 xiii4 ,dr4 ,bock has figur$ x4 #hfdh4 ,an ,embroid]$ ,figure ( ,/4 ,ursula1 )9 a ,go?ic ni*e1 :i* ) mu* ( ! drap]y1 0 done 9 gold1 on a gr\nd n[ br[n4 ,rh5i%1 #ad? c5tury4 #h in*es by #c in*es4 ,s sadly has ! :ole ( ?is embroid]y suff]$1 app>5tly f damp1 t ! t9ts ( its silk are gone1 & ! gold ab\t x all become black4 ,t ?is is b "o ( sev]al figures 9 an orphrey is v likely2 x gives u ! sa9t ) ! palm-bran* ( m>tyrdom 9 "o h&1 a book 9 ! o!r1 & an arr[ slick+ 9 h] neck1 ! in/rum5t ( h] dea?2 be+ ( blood royal1 %e we>s a cr[n2 emblem ( heav5 & p>adise1 ! gr\nd %e treads is all fl[]y4 #hfdi4 ,piece ( ,wooll5 ,c>pet2 gr\nd1 r$2 patt]n1 a gre5 quatrefoil be>+ ?ree :ite animals4 ,spani%1 late #ad? c5tury4 #a foot #aa in*es by #a foot #a in*4 ,a mo/ unmi/akeable piece ( m$ival c>pet+2 ! lively tone ( its r$ is yet bright4 ,! quatrefoils are q ( ! p]iod1 & look l f\r-petal$ roses b>b$1 t is1 ) ! angul> projection betwe5 ! petals4 ,s unlion-l are ! animals1 t we may n take !m z ! blazon ( ! ,k+dom ( ,leon4 #hfej4 ,piece ( ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 crimson2 patt]n1 ! s-call$ arti*oke 9 yell[ & gre51 l9$ :ite1 & foliage ( gre5 l9$ :ite4 ,spani%1 #ae? c5tury4 #a foot #i in*es by #a foot #d in*es4 ,a good example ( ?is %[y patt]n1 once s mu* 9 fav\r1 & ( :i* ! mat]ials are v good & sub/antial2 mu* ( ! yell[ portions ( ! design 0 9 gold ?read1 ! metal ( :i* has1 h[ev]1 almo/ all gone4 ,f ! quantity ( glue /ill /ick+ to ! h9d "p ( ?is silk1 its la/ de/9ation w\ld seem to h be5 ! cov]+ ( "s /ate room4 #hfea4 ,! 8,v]nicle10 embroid]$ 9 silk1 & n[ sew$ on a l>ge piece ( l954 ,flemi%1 middle ( #ae? c5tury4 #i in*es by #g in*es2 ! l951 #b feet #aj in*es by #b feet #i in*es4 ,to ! read]s ( old ,engli% lit]ature1 especially ( ,*auc]1 ! t]m ( 8,v]nicle0 w n be unkn[n1 z express+ ! repres5tation ( our ,savi\r's face1 :i* ,he is said to h left ^u a napk9 h&$ ,him to wipe ,8 br[s1 by "o ( ^? pi\s wom5 :o cr[d$ aft] ,him on ,8 road to ,calv>y4 ,x is notic$1 too1 9 ! 8,*ur* ( our ,fa!rs10 t4 iii4 p4 #dch4 ,?is piece ( ne$lework seems to h be5 cut (f f ano!r1 & sew$1 at a v mu* lat] p]iod1 to ! l>ge piece ( l95 to :i* x is n[ atta*$2 = ! purpose ( be+ put up ei!r 9 a private *apel1 or ov] "s v small alt> 9 a *ur*1 z a sort ( r]$os2 or1 p]haps1 x may h orig9ally be5 "o ( ! app>els on an alb3 nev]1 h[ev]1 on an amice1 be+ mu* too l>ge = su* a purpose4 ,"o s+ul>ity 9 ! subject is ! appe>ance ( crimson tassels1 "o at ea* corn] ( ! napk9 figur$ ) our ,"l's lik5ess1 :i* is kept ) great c>e /ill1 at ,rome1 among ! pr9cipal relics 9 ,/4 ,pet]'s1 :]e x is %[n 9 a solemn mann] on ,ea/] ,monday4 ,x is "o ( ^? repres5tations ( a sacr$ subject call$ by ! ,greeks 1 t is1 8n made by h&s10 or1 n ! "w ( man1 z 0 notic$ 9 ! ,introduction to ! pres5t ,catalogue4 #hfeb4 ,l95 ,t[el1 ) ?read embroid]y2 patt]n1 loz5ges1 "s enclos+ fl[]s1 o!rs1 loz5ges4 ,g]man1 #ae? c5tury4 #c feet #aa in*es by #a foot #f in*es4 ,mo/ likely ?is small piece ( l95 0 meant to be a cov]+ = a table1 or may be ! *e/ ( draw]s 9 ! ve/ry1 & ^u :i* ! ve/m5ts = ! day 7 laid out = ! celebrat+ prie/ to put on4 ,9 ! patt]n !re is evid5tly a /rong lik+ = ! gammadion--a k9d ( figuration con/ruct$ out ( modifications ( ! ,greek lett] gamma4 ,9 ,engl& ! gammadion became kn[n z ! 8filfot10 & seems to h be5 look$ ^u z a symbol = ! "n ,francis or ,frances1 & is ( frequ5t occurr5ce 9 our national monum5ts--especially 9 ne$lework--belong+ to ! #ad? & #ae? c5turies4 ,f ! pres5ce ( t l>ge eight-petal$ fl[] 9 ?is clo? we are some:at w>rant$ 9 ?9k+ t ! same h& t wr\ght ! f9e & curi\s frontal1 ,no4 #hgji1 work$ ?is1 & t h] baptismal "n 0 ,frances4 #hfec-hffa;,a4 ,t5 ,fragm5ts ( ,n>r[ ,laces = edg+s to liturgical g>m5ts1 wov51 "s 9 gold1 "s 9 silk1 & "s 9 wor/$4 #hfeh is a specim5 ( p>ti-col\r$ fr+e2 #hfei %[s a two-legg$ mon/] z "p ( its design2 & 9 #hffa & #hffa ,a we f9d a knot mu* l ! "o to :i* ,montagu gives ! names ( ,wake & ,ormond1 9 8 8,guide to ! ,/udy ( ,h]aldry10 p4 #eb4 #hffb4 ,! ,napk9 = a ,crozi]1 ( f9e l95 ornam5t$ ) two n>r[ p]p5dicul> /rips ( embroid]y ( a loz5ge patt]n 9 v>i\s-col\r$ wor/$s1 & hav+1 at top1 a cap-%ap$ f9i%+ made ( a piece ( gre5 rais$ velvet1 :i* is figur$ ) a bird1 l a peacock1 p]*$ j by a well1 into :i* x is look+4 ,at ea* corn] ( ?is cap is a small p>ti-col\r$ tassel1 &1 at ! top1 ! %ort n>r[ loop by :i* x hung f ! upp] "p ( ! crozi]-/aff4 ,g]man1 #ae? c5tury4 #b feet #b in*es by #a foot #h in*es4 ,?is is ano!r ( ^? liturgical ornam5ts1 valuable1 because s r>e1 ( :i* we h spok5 "u ,no4 #hbgi;,a4 ,b 9 ! specim5 be=e u we f9d x 9 mu* dim9i%$ =m--half only ( its usual size4 ,! design ( ! rais$ velvet1 9 its cap1 is z unusual z curi\s4 #hffc4 ,l95 ,clo?1 embroid]$ 9 col\r$ silks ) sacr$ emblems & hagiological subjects1 & inscrib$ ) names amid trees & fl[]s4 ,g]man1 #ae? c5tury4 #a foot #a in*es by #d in*es4 ,9 all likelihood ?is ne$lework 0 meant z ! cov]+ = a table 9 ! ve/ry ( "s *ur*1 or oratory 9 "s lady's room4 ,on ! left is figur$ ,/4 ,george slay+ ! dragon2 next1 ! pelican 9 its piety1 above :i* is ! 8v]nicle10 & ov] ?is ! ^w 8,emont10 ) a ducal coronet above x4 ,!n ! names 8,ihs10 8,m>ia10 &1 above !m1 ! ^w 8,eva0 cr[n$4 ,9 ! middle ( ! clo? is a cross ) all ! emblems ( ! ,passion ar\nd x1 z well z a /> & cresc5t4 ,!n an animal spott$ l a pan!r & *a9$ to a tree2 ?is is foll[$ by ! "n 8,melt9i*20 la/ ( all we f9d ! "n 8,amelia10 & b5ea?1 a half-figure ( a woman hav+ long hair ) a l>ge comb 9 h] "r h&1 altoge!r resembl+ a m]maid4 ,at bottom runs a n>r[ p>ti-col\r$ ?read fr+e4 #hffd4 ,frontlet to an ,alt>-,clo?1 embroid]$ 9 col\r$ silks ^u f9e l951 ) fl[]-be>+ trees & a %ield ( ! ,passion1 along ) sa9ts' names1 c4 ,g]man1 #af? c5tury4 #a foot #a in*es by #d in*es4 ,! %ield 9 ! middle is *>g$ ) a *alice & consecrat$ ho/1 & f\r w\nds 7h&s & feet7 ( our ,"l4 ,"u "o tree occur ! names 8,jhesus10 8,m>ia20 "u ano!r1 8,&reas10 8,anna40 ,f amid ! grass on ! gr\nd spr+ up tufts ( daisies4 #hffe4 ,piece ( ,embroid]y1 done ^u f9e l95 9 col\r$ silks & gold ?read4 ,g]man1 middle ( ! #ae? c5tury4 #g in*es squ>e4 ,! subject ( ?is piece is ! dea? ( ! ,bless$ ,virg9 ,m>y1 figur$ accord+ to ! traditional mann] mu* foll[$ by ! m$ival s*ools ( art 9 mo/ p>ts ( ,*ri/5dom4 ,x is1 h[ev]1 to be regrett$ t ?is embroid]y has be5 at "s "t mutilat$2 9 its orig9al /ate x may h1 p]haps1 s]v$ z an app>el to an alb1 & occupi$ ! place ( "o ( ^? to be se5 at ,no4 #hgaj4 #hfff4 ,fragm5t ( ?9 ,silk ,damask2 patt]n1 a loz5ge-%ap$ diap]2 col\r1 a mu* fad$ crimson4 ,ori5tal1 #ac? c5tury4 #h in*es by #d in*es4 ,?\gh small1 ! patt]n is pretty1 & mu* resembles a /uff ( silk & gold v lately f\nd 9 ! tomb ( "o ( ! ,ar*bi%ops ( ,york1 9 t ca!dral4 #hffg4 ,portion ( an ,orphrey1 wr\ght p>tly 9 ! loom1 p>tly by ! ne$le1 & figur$ ) an angel-l y\? hold+ be=e him an armorial %ield1 z he /&s )9 a ,go?ic ni*e1 ) an inscription bel[ 8 feet4 ,g]man1 v late #ae? c5tury4 #aj in*es by #e in*es4 ,illu/ration3 #hffg4 ,,embroid]y1 ,,silk ,,gold ,"u a ,go?ic canopy c4 ,g]man1 late #ae? c5tury4 ,?is in/ructive piece des]ves ! att5tion ( ^? :o /udy embroid]y4 ,! loom 0 ge>$ 9 su* a mann] t ! spaces = ! head1 face1 neck1 & h&s 7 left q empty1 s t !y might be fill$ 9 by ! ne$le4 ,b ?is 0 n all ! h& _h to d2 ! ar*itectural features ( ! canopy1 its %ad+ 9 r$1 ! nimb1 & nicely floriat$ diap]+ all ov] ! angel's gold5 alb1 7 put 9 by ! ne$le4 ,! inscription1 wov5 91 reads 8,joh v gey10 & ! piece is figur$ 9 ,dr4 ,bock's 8,ges*i*te d] ,liturgis*5 ,gewnd] des ,mittelalt]s10 #b ,lief]ung1 pl4 xv4 #hffh4 ,"p ( an ,orphrey1 mo/ly loom-wov51 & figur$ ) ! ,crucifixion1 on "o side ( :i* /&s ! ,bless$ ,virg9 ,m>y1 on ! o!r1 ,/4 ,john ! ,evangeli/1 ,g]man1 late #ae? c5tury4 #ab in*es by #e in*es4 ,l ! prec$+ piece1 ! great] "p is wov51 ev5 ! body itself ( our ,"l1 s t 9 ,8 figure1 z 9 ^? ( ,8 "m & ! belov$ disciple1 ! only embroid]$ portions are ! head & face1 besides ^? blood-spots all ov] ,8 p]son1 ! trickl+s f ,8 five w\nds1 & ! cross$ nimb ab\t ,8 head4 #hffi4 ,portion ( a ,maniple1 9 mu* fad$ tawny silk2 patt]n1 a rose-l floriation4 ,flemi%1 #af? c5tury4 #a foot #aj in*es by #c in*es4 ,?\gh peculi>1 ! patt]n 9 ! design ( ?is silk5 /uff is v pretty2 ! piece ( p>ti-col\r$ silk5 fr+e t edges ! end ( ?is maniple is old] ?an ! textile to :i* x is sew$4 #hfgj4 ,! h9d ,orphrey = a ,*asuble1 ) embroid]$ figures appli$ ^u a gr\nd r$ & gold4 ,! figures are a knight b>ehead$ & kneel+ 9 pray]1 ) 8 helmet & %ield be=e him1 ,/4 ,ca!r9e ( ,alex&ria1 & ,/4 ,an?ony ( ,egypt read+ a book4 ,g]man1 middle ( ! #ae? c5tury4 #b feet #aa in*es by #e in*es4 ,! figures are well done1 & all %[ ! v>ieties ( process !n br\ght into use2 !y 7 work$ on canvas1 ( :i* ! portions = ! face & h&s 7 left unt\*$1 sav+ by ! few slight /it*es requir$ = indicat+ ! hair & features ( ! c\nt5ance & indications ( ! f+]s4 ,"s ( ! dress 0 cut out ( wov5 clo? ( gold & sew$ on2 o!r p>ts work$ ) ! ne$le1 z 7 su* accessories z books1 in/rum5ts ( m>tyrdom1 & o!r su* emblems4 ,! knight1 probably ! giv] ( ! *asuble1 is meant to be indicat$ by 8 blazon1 :i* is a %ield or *>g$ ) eight torteaux 9 orle1 & ?is is surm\nt$ by a gold5 helmet ) mantl+1 & a cre/1 consi/+ ( gold5 horns fr+$ ) f\r torteaux ea*4 ,! gr\nd ^u :i* ! embroid]ies are set is ri*1 & wov5 ) gold5 :eel-l circles ) wavy1 n /raight1 spokes ^u a bright r$ field4 #hfga4 ,fragm5t ( an ,orphrey1 wov5 9 gold & col\r$ silks2 patt]n1 int]tw9+ brambles ( ! wild rose1 be>+ fl[]s se$$ & b>b$4 ,g]man1 beg9n+ ( ! #af? c5tury4 #g in*es by #d in*es4 ,?\gh ! gr\nd is1 or r 01 ( gold1 s sp>+ly 0 ! preci\s metal be/[$ ^u ! ?read1 t x has be5 almo/ entirely worn away4 ,! same may be said ( ! v n>r[ tape ) :i*1 on "o ( its edges1 x is /ill bord]$4 #hfgb4 ,"p ( an ,orphrey1 embroid]$ ^u l951 9 col\r$ silks1 & figur$ ) ,/4 ,an?ony & a virg9 m>tyr-sa9t1 bo? /&+ b5ea? ,go?ic canopies4 ,rh5i%1 late #ae? c5tury4 #a foot #i in*es by #c in*es4 ,not)/&+ ! embroid]y be some:at co>se1 l mu* ( ! same k9d ( "w at ! p]iod1 x is s f> valuable z x in/ructs u h[ ?ree me?ods 7 practis$ toge!r on "o piece4 ,! canvas gr\nd 0 left b>e at ! faces & h&s1 s t ! features ( ! "o & ! jo9ts ( ! o!r might be %[n by appropriate /it*es 9 silk4 ,pieces ( gold5 web1 cut to ! "r size1 7 appli$ = ! upp] g>m5ts ( ! figures1 & ! folds %ad$ by h& 9 r$ silk1 & ! bord]s ( ! robe edg$ ) a small cord+1 :ile all ! re/ ( ! "w 0 fill$ 9 ) ne$lework4 ,! closely fitt+ scull-cap1 b m especially ! /aff end+ 9 a tau-cross1 indicate ,/4 ,an?ony1 b ! female sa9t _c be id5tifi$2 h] long hair fl[+ ab\t h] %\ld]s signifies t %e 0 a virg91 & ! gre5 palm-bran* 9 h] "r h& indicates t %e und]w5t m>tyrdom4 #hfgc4 ,piece ( ,rais$ ,velvet2 gr\nd1 yell[i% p9k1 ! rais$ velvet1 bright crimson2 patt]n1 a l>ge comp\nd floriation )9 a circle =m$ by small hook$ l9es hav+ fl[]s at ! cusps1 & ! r\nd itself spr++ out ( a some:at small] floriation4 ,flemi%1 #af? c5tury4 #b feet #c in*es by #a foot #a in*es4 #hfgd4 ,piece ( ,rais$ ,velvet2 ! gr\nd1 orange1 ! rais$ velvet1 gre52 ! patt]n1 ( pomegranate =m1 )9 crocket$ circles1 & alt]nat+ ) a l>ge floriation4 ,flemi%1 #af? c5tury4 #b feet #d in*es by #aa in*es4 ,! rais$ patt]n1 f its ri* pile1 /&s up well1 & 0 hung ^u walls1 or employ$ = curta9s & o!r h\sehold appliances1 = :i* su* /uffs 7 g5]ally produc$4 #hfge4 ,piece ( ,wor/$ ,ne$lework2 patt]n1 loz5ges aft] sev]al =ms1 & done 9 v>i\s col\rs4 ,flemi%1 #af? c5tury4 #ah in*es by #ab in*es4 ,work$ aft] ! same fa%ion1 & ) ! same mat]ials1 t our ladies at ?is day employ ^u _! ,b]l9 wool "w4 #hfgf4 ,piece ( ,l95 ,damask2 patt]n1 arti*oke & pomegranate =ms4 ,flemi%1 #af? c5tury4 #a foot #c in*es by #a foot #a in*es4 ,! design is c>efully elaborat$2 & ! piece itself is evid5ce ( ! beauty ( old ,flemi% nap]y4 #hfgg4 ,a ,small ,clo? = an ,oratory1 ( f9e l951 embroid]$ ) sprigs ( fl[]s 9 _! prop] col\rs1 9 silk1 & ) ,i4 ,h4 ,s4 9 r$ go?ic lett]s1 )9 a ?orn-l wrea? 9 gre54 ,flemi%1 #af? c5tury4 #b feet #f in*es by #a foot #aj in*es4 ,t ?is clo? has be5 cut d[n is evid5t2 ! sacr$ monogram is n 9 ! middle1 & ! high] r[ ( fl[]s is %ort5$4 ,?\gh hemm$ ) tape on "o side1 & edg$ on two sides by v n>r[ /rong lace1 & on ! f\r? or front bord] by a broad] lace1 its la/ use 0 z a cov]+ = "s sort ( table1 n an alt> prop]ly s call$2 x is by f> v mu* too small = any su* purpose4 ,9 all likelihood1 ?is clo? 0 made to ov]spread ! top ( a pray+ desk1 or "s little table /rew$ ) devotional objects 9 a b$-room or private oratory4 #hfgh4 ,portion ( ,wor/$ ,embroid]y ^u light br[n l952 ! patt]n1 a scroll ( fl[]s & foliage 9 col\rs ,g]man1 late #af? c5tury4 #a foot #e in*es by #d in*es4 ,! design is made to run along well1 & ! col\rs are nicely contra/$4 #hfgi4 ,piece ( ,silk ,damask1 ( a light r$ & /raw col\r2 patt]n1 two v>ieties ( ! pomegranate mix$ ) l>ge arti*okes & small cr[ns1 & sep>at$ by ?ick bran*es1 :i* are purpl$ ) broad ivy-l leaves4 ,italian1 #af? c5tury4 #b feet #aj in*es by #a foot #aa in*es4 ,a bold patt]n1 rem>kable = ! orig9ality ( "s p>ts ( its design4 #hfhj1 #hfhj;,a4 ,two ,pieces ( ,rais$ ,velvet1 gre5 & gold2 patt]n1 a modification ( ! fav\rite pomegranate & its accompany+ int]tw9+ foliage2 v l>ge & incomplete4 ,flor5t9e1 e>ly #af? c5tury4 #b feet #a in* by #i in*es2 #a foot #c in*es by #aj in*es4 ,^! two pieces give u specim5s ( ^? gorge\s /uffs s (t5 s5t =? to ! _w f ! looms ( ,tuscany1 & af=d1 9 portions ( ! design1 samples ( velvet rais$ ^u velvet s v r>ely to be f\nd4 ,! little %ort loops1 or spots1 ( gold ?read1 ) :i* ! velvet is 9 "s p>ts freckl$1 ought n to g unnotic$4 #hfha4 ,piece ( ,embroid]y1 wr\ght ) a runn+ patt]n ( leaves & fl[]s 9 col\r$ ?reads ^u a gold5 gr\nd1 n[ mu* t>ni%$4 ,g]man1 #af? c5tury1 #a foot #f in*es by #d in*es4 ,embroid]y 9 ?read is ( some:at r>e occurr5ce4 #hfhb4 ,"p ( a ,web = *ur* use1 wr\ght 9 ?read & silk ^u a gold5 gr\nd1 n[ mu* fad$4 ,! patt]n1 trees be>+ :ite fl[]s1 bun*es ( :ite lilies1 :eels ) />s1 & ! words 8,jhesus1 ,m>ia40 ,cologne1 late #ae? c5tury4 #f feet by #e in*es4 ,t x once =m$ a frontlet or bord] to ! front edge ( an alt>-clo? is v likely1 n only f ! spots ( wax ) :i* x is 9 "s p>ts spr9kl$1 b m especially f ! way 9 :i* its patt]n is wr\ght1 s z to be prop]ly se5 :5 /ret*$ out horizontally4 #hfhc1 #hfhd4 ,two ,specim5s ( ,web = *ur* use2 wov5 9 silks1 ^u a gold5 gr\nd2 ! fir/ ) ! sacr$ "n 8,jhesus10 & a tree be>+ :ite & r$ fl[]s1 ) daisies at its foot1 & ! "n 8,m>ia10 b5ea? :i* is a g>l& ( :ite & r$ fl[]s tw9$ ab\t ! lett] ,m2 ! second1 ) a r\nd ornam5t1 hav+ r$ & gold />s ^u a tawny :ite gr\nd betwe5 ea* ( its eight radii1 & und]nea? ! sacr$ "n1 9 d>k blue silk4 ,g]man1 late #ae? c5tury4 #a foot #g in*es by #b in*es2 #g in*es by #c in*es4 ,l sev]al o!r examples ( ! same k9d to be f\nd 9 ?is collection1 & wr\ght = ! same liturgical purposes4 #hfhe4 ,piece ( ,rais$ ,velvet1 d>k blue2 patt]n1 "o ( ! sev]al v>ieties ( ! pomegranate4 ,italian1 #af? c5tury4 #a foot #c in*es by #a foot #c in*es4 ,ri* nei!r 9 mat]ial nor design1 ?is velvet may h be5 wr\ght n = ecclesia/ical b p]sonal use4 #hfhf4 ,piece ( ,silk ,damask1 purple2 patt]n1 ! pomegranate4 ,italian4 #b feet #e in*es by #aa in*es4 ,l ! prec$+1 meant = p]sonal use1 b exhibit+ a mu* m elaborate design1 & ! v>iety ( ! corn-fl[] 7c5taurea7 spr++ =? all r\nd ! pomegranate1 :i* itself gr[s out ( a fleur-de-lis cr[n4 #hfhg4 ,piece ( ,embroid]y1 on canvas2 gr\nd1 figur$ ) ,/4 ,john ! ,bapti/ & ,/4 ,john ! ,evangeli/4 ,rh5i%1 #af? c5tury4 #a foot #d in*es squ>e4 ,to ! left is se5 ,/4 ,john ! ,bapti/1 clo!d 9 a long g>m5t ( camel-hair & 8 lo9s girt ) a light-blue girdle1 prea*+ 9 ! wild]ness on ! banks ( ! ,jordan4 ,9 8 left h& he holds a clasp$ book1 ^u :i* re/s ! 8,lamb ( ,god10 & j ov]1 a flag1 ! :ite field ( :i* is ensign$ ) a r$ cross2 8 uprais$ "r h&1 ) ! fir/ two f+]s elevat$ z 9 ! act ( bless+1 is po9t$ to ! lamb4 ,to ! "r we h ,/4 ,john ! ,evangeli/1 hold+ a cup 9 "o h&1 :ile ) ! o!r he makes ! poison\s drug 9 x h>mless by a bless+4 ,! gr\nd+ has be5 fill$ 9 mo/ly ) gold5 ?read1 b ( s poor a quality t ! ?9 metal on x is sc>cely disc]nible4 ,9 bo? figures ! :ole ( ! p]son1 ! fle%es1 z well z clo?+1 are all done 9 wov5 :ite silk cut out1 %ad$1 & featur$ 9 col\rs by ! bru%1 ) "s little ne$lework "h & !re ^u ! g>m5ts & accessories4 ,! figures ( ! sa9ts are 8appli$20 & "o _c b admire ! effect :i* a few /it*es ( ri* gre5 silk produce ^u ! canvas gr\nd1 :ile a piece ( appli$ silk1 slightly %ad$ by ! bru%1 is an admirable imitation ( a rocky cliff4 ,! two tall trees & gre5 g>l&s betwe5 !m are tell+ 9 _! w>m tones4 ,altoge!r ?is is a preci\s specim5 ( appli$ "w1 & m]its att5tion4 ,x seems to h be5 ! middle piece ( a bann] us$ = processions1 & may h once belong$ to "s *ur* at ,cologne d$icat$ to ! two ,,ss4 ,john4 #hfhh4 ,portion ( an ,orphrey1 crimson sat91 embroid]$ ) fl[]s 9 col\r$ silk & gold ?read4 #ag? c5tury4 #a foot #c in*es by #b in*es4 ,f :at liturgical ve/m5t ?is 0 tak5 x w\ld be h>d to guess1 b !re is no likelihood t x ev] ornam5t$ a mitre4 ,! yell[ fl[]s1 ( ! composite k9d1 & he>t's-eases are v nicely done1 :e!r ! "w ( an ,italian1 ,fr5*1 or ,g]man h&4 ,!y h mu* ab\t !m t speaks ( ,france4 #hfhi4 ,piece ( ,rais$ ,velvet1 br[n1 ) floriat$ patt]n 9 gold ?read4 ,nor? ,italy1 e>ly #af? c5tury4 #a foot #a in*es by #f in*es4 ,mo/ likely f ! looms ( ,lucca1 & ) a pretty diap]+ 9 ! gold gr\nd :]e x is b>e ( ! velvet pile4 #hfij4 ,piece ( ,gre5 ,velvet1 spangl$ ) gold1 & embroid]$ ) ?ree armorial %ields 9 gold ?read & col\r$ silks4 ,g]man1 #ag? c5tury4 #aj in*es by #i in*es4 ,all ! %ields are v ,g]man1 especially 9 _! cre/s4 ,! %ield on ! "r h& w attract notice by its anomaly2 on a field azure x gives a rose gules b>b$ gre51 or col\r ^u col\r2 ! cre/1 too1 is a curiosity1 at lea/ 9 ,engli% blazon1 display+ an ,elector's cap ) v tall bullru%es1 five 9 numb]1 & col\r$ prop]1 issu+ f betwe5 ! erm9e & ! crimson velvet4 #hfia4 ,l95 ,napk91 = liturgic use1 embroid]$1 9 col\r$ silks1 ) conv5tional fl[]s4 ,g]man1 end ( ! #af? c5tury4 #b feet in* by #a foot #aa in*es4 ,?is is ano!r ( ^? liturgical r>ities--,corpus ,*ri/i clo?s--( :i* we h spok5 at ,no4 #hcdb1 "u ! "n ( ,s9dons1 or ,pyx-clo?s4 ,su* appliances 7 employ$ = mantl+ ! pyx or ciborium :5 %ut up 9 ! tab]nacle--t little temple-l erection on ! table1 or r /ep1 on ! wall-side ( ! alt>--:5 ! cu/om ceas$ ( keep+ ! pyx hang+ up b5ea? a canopy4 #hfib4 ,hood ( a ,cope1 silk damask1 r$ & yell[1 ) ! subject ( ! ,assumption ( ! ,bless$ ,virg9 ,m>y wov5 9 x4 ,flor5t9e1 late #ae? c5tury4 #a foot #e in*es by #a foot #d in*es4 ,upris+ f h] grave1 & amid rays ( glory & an oblong or elliptic aureole1 ! ,virg9 ,m>y is be+ waft$ to heav5 by f\r angels1 :o are n1 z ( yore1 ve/$ 9 long close albs l deacons1 b 9 fl[+ g>m5ts s slit up z to %[ _! nak$ arms1 b>e legs1 & l[] ?ighs4 ,^u ! empty tomb1 f out ( :i* are spr++ up lilies1 is writt5 8,assunta e/20 & at "o corn] kneels ! apo/le ,/4 ,?omas :o1 ) head uplift$ & bo? 8 arms out/ret*$1 is receiv+ f ! "m ( our ,"l h] girdle1 :i* %e is hold+ 9 h] h&s & ab\t to let drop d[n to him4 8,la ,madonna della c9tola0--?is subject--may (t5 be met ) 9 ,italian1 m especially ,flor5t9e1 art ( ! middle ages1 & is closely l9k$ ) ! hi/ory ( ! f9e old *ur* ( ,prato1 z we ga!r f ,vas>i1 9 8 8,vite dei ,pittori10 t4 i4 p4 #bgi1 ,fir5ze1 #ahdf2 & ! ,engli% translation1 t4 ii4 p4 #ge4 #hfic4 ,l95 ,napk91 = liturgic use1 embroid]$ 9 :ite1 br[n1 & blue ?read1 ) figures ( our ,"l & ! twelve ,apo/les4 ,g]man1 #d feet #h in*es by #a foot #d in*es4 ,l ! valuable specim5 ( ! ne$le describ$ at ,no4 #hceh1 ! example be=e u s]v$ ! purpose ( cov]+ ! lect]n 9 ! *ancel at ! celebration ( ! liturgy4 ,z 9 ! usual repres5tations ( ! ,jesse-tree1 ! bu/ ( ea* ( ! ?irte5 figures is made to re/ )9 a circul> bran* ^u its tip1 :]e x spr\ts out l a wide fl[]4 ,at ! top ( ?is tree we behold our ,"l ) ,8 "r h& uplift$ 9 ! act ( b5$iction1 ,8 left re/$ ^u a mund1 &1 ab\t ,8 head a scroll inscrib$ 8,pax ,f7,v7obis40 ,to ! "r is ,/4 ,pet]--s inscrib$--hold+ a key2 to ! left1 ,/4 ,john1 z a be>dless y\?--inscrib$ 8,s4 ,johnis20 !n ,/4 ,&]us 7,&rew71 ) a cross saltire-wise2 & ,/4 ,jacob 7,james71 ) 8 pilgrim's /aff 9 h&1 & on 8 l>ge sl\*$ hat turn$ up 9 front he has two pilgrim-/aves 9 saltire2 ,/4 ,jacobi 7,james ! ,less71 ) full]'s bat2 ,/4 ,simonus 7,simon71 be>dless1 ) a long knife or sword jagg$ or too!d l a saw2 ,/4 ,?omas1 ) 8 spe>2 ,/4 ,b>tlyme 7,b>?olomew71 ) ! flay+ knife2 ,/4 ,judas ,tadvs 7,jude or ,?addeus71 ) a knott$ club2 ,/4 ,ma!us 7,mat!w71 ) a hat*et1 & be>dless2 ,/4 ,philippe1 ) a cross bottony1 & be>dless2 ,/4 ,ma?ias1 ) a halb]t4 ,at bottom is m>k$1 9 blue ink1 #aegd2 b x may be fairly d\bt$ if ?is date be ! true "o = ?is embroid]y1 ( :i* ! /yle looks at lea/ fifty ye>s old]4 #hfid4 ,fragm5t ( ,silk & ,cotton ,tissue1 gre51 ) small fl[] patt]n4 ,italian1 late #af? c5tury4 #f in*es by #d in*es4 ,a pleas+ specim51 ri* 9 mat]ial1 & bright 9 its tones1 v likely f ! ,s\? ( ,italy4 #hfie4 ,piece ( ,silk ,damask1 crimson & yell[2 patt]n1 scroll & foliage4 ,fr5*1 end ( #af? c5tury4 #a foot #g in*es by #a foot #i in*es4 ,?is piece1 int5d$ = h\sehold use1 is n )\t effect 9 its design4 ,?\gh ! w>p is silk1 9 ! wo( !re is l95 ?read1 ?\gh n easily p]ceiv$4 #hfif4 ,piece ( ,f9e ,l951 ) broad bord] ( fl[]s 9 col\r$ silks4 ,syrian 7871 #ae? c5tury4 #ab in*es by #a foot #g in*es4 ,?is v f9e l95 has all ! appe>ance ( hav+ be5 wr\ght 9 "s c\ntry on ! ea/]n %ores ( ! ,m$it]ranean1 & rem9ds u ( ^? ?9 textures = :i* ,india 01 & yet is1 s celebrat$4 ,! embroid]y1 too1 is b a timid imitation ( fl[]s1 & is s work$ z to be equally good on bo? sides4 ,to all appe>ance x is %e end ( a woman's sc>f4 #hfig4 ,piece ( ,ne$lework 9 col\r$ wor/$s1 ^u a canvas gr\nd2 patt]n1 zig-zag loz5ges1 conta9+ tulips & o!r liliaci\s fl[]s4 ,g]man1 middle ( #af? c5tury4 #a foot #d in*es by #a foot #a in*4 ,seem+ly1 ?is is b a small piece ( a foot-clo? = ! upp] /ep ( an alt>4 #hfih4 ,l95 ,damask ,napk92 patt]n1 scrolls enclos+ a pomegranate ornam5tation2 bord]1 at two sides1 ri* lace4 ,flemi%1 #af? c5tury4 #d feet #c in*es by #b feet #c in*es4 ,?is napk9 probably s]v$ = c>ry+ to ! alt> ! ,sunday 8holy loaf10 z x 0 call$ 9 ,engl&1 ! use ( :i* is /ill kept up 9 ,france1 & kn[n !re z ! 8pa9 b5it40 ,= an acc\nt ( ?is anci5t rite1 see ! 8,*ur* ( our ,fa!rs10 i4 #ace4 #hfii4 ,small ,bag1 silk & l95 ?read1 embroid]$ 9 quadrangul> patt]n4 ,g]man1 #ae? c5tury4 #c in*es squ>e4 ,v l ! "o "u ,no4 #hcac4 ,x may h be5 us$ z a reliqu>y1 or1 :at is m probable1 = c>ry+ ! ros>y-beads ( "s lady4 ,conc]n+ ! =m ( pray] itself1 see ! 8,*ur* ( our ,fa!rs10 t4 iii4 p4 #cbj4 #hgjj4 ,piece ( ,embroid]y1 ^u an old] piece ( :ite silk1 brocad$ 9 gold1 ?ree armorial %ields 9 _! prop] t9ctures1 all )9 a gold5 wrea?4 ,g]man1 late #af? c5tury4 #d in*es squ>e4 #hgja4 ,piece ( ,black ,rais$ ,velvet1 ) small fl[] patt]n4 ,italian1 #af? c5tury4 #a foot by #g in*es4 ,a pleas+ example ( ! ,g5oese loom4 #hgjb4 ,piece ( ,damask1 silk & l951 tawny & yell[2 patt]n1 a modification ( ! pomegranate )9 oblong curves1 & o!r floriations4 ,flor5t9e1 #af? c5tury4 #b feet #aa in*es by #a foot #a in*es4 ,illu/ration3 #hgjb ,,damask1 ,,silk ,,& ,,l951 ,flor5t9e1 #af? c5tury4 ,v9c5t ,brooks ,day ,son1 ,li?4 ,( a l>ge bold design1 ?\gh n ri* 9 mat]ial4 #hgjc4 ,piece ( ,damask1 silk & l951 tawny & yell[2 patt]n1 a slight v>iation ( ! =ego+1 ,no4 #hgjb4 ,flor5t9e1 #af? c5tury4 #c feet #d in*es by #i in*es4 ,s mu* alike are ^! two specim5s1 t at fir/ sight !y look p>ts ( ! same /uff2 a ne> & close inspection %[s1 h[ev]1 t = "o or o!r !re 0 a slight alt]ation 9 ! ge>+ ( ! loom4 ,bo? may h orig9ally be5 crimson & yell[3 if s1 ! fir/ col\r has sadly fad$4 ,f ! %ape ( ?is piece1 its la/ use mu/ h be5 = a *asuble1 b ( a v rec5t p]iod1 judg+ f its actual %ape4 #hgjd4 ,*asuble1 clo? ( gold1 diap]$ ) a deep-pil$ blue velvet1 s z to %[ ! fav\rite arti*oke patt]n aft] two =ms1 ) embroid]$ orphreys & armorial %ields4 ,flemi%1 v late #ae? c5tury4 #d feet #d in*es by #c feet #aj in*es4 ,illu/ration3 #hgjd4 ,,"p ,,( ,,! ,,orphrey ,,( ,a ,,*asuble4 ,flemi%1 #ae? c5tury4 ,v9c5t ,brooks ,day ,son1 ,li?4 ,?is *asuble1 r>e1 because n cut-d[n1 has be5 lately b prop]ly repair$4 ,! back orphrey1 9 ! =m ( a cross1 is figur$ ) ! ,crucifixion1 ! ,b4 ,v4 ,m>y fa9t+ & upheld by ,/4 ,john2 a %ield gules1 ) *alice or1 & ho/ arg5t1 at top2 ano!r %ield at bottom1 gules1 a column arg5t1 tw9$ ) cords or2 ! front orphrey is figur$ ) ! ,b4 ,v4 ,m>y cr[n$1 & c>ry+ our infant ,"l 9 h] arms2 b5ea? h]1 ! words inscrib$ 9 blue1 8,salve ,reg9a20 l[] d[n1 ,/4 ,john ! ,evangeli/ bless+ a gold5 *alice1 out ( :i* is com+ a dragon1 & hav+ ! inscription at 8 feet1 8,sanctus ,iohannes40 ,l[] /ill1 ,/4 ,ca!r9e ) a book 9 h] "r h&1 & 9 ! left a sword re/+ on a :eel4 ,! front orphrey is done 9 appli$ "w2 ! back orphrey consi/s ( a web ) a gr\nd ( gold1 figur$ ) gre5 fl[]-be>+ b\ghs1 & hav+ spaces left = ! heads & h&s to be fill$ 9 ) ne$lework4 ,! %ield ( arms or1 ) a *ief azure1 *>g$ ) ?ree squ>e buckles arg5t1 we may presume to be ! blazon ( ! giv] ( ?is gorge\s ve/m5t4 #hgje4 ,frontlet to an ,alt>-,clo? ( diap]$ l954 ,! frontlet itself is ! broad bord] ( purple clo? on :i* is figur$ a ,lat9 inscription )9 wrea?s ( fl[]s done 9 :ite l954 ,g]man1 late #ae? c5tury4 #aj feet #i in*es by #f in*es2 ! l951 #i in*es4 ,?is is ano!r liturgical appliance1 once s common ev]y:]e1 & s (t5 m5tion$ 9 ,engli% ecclesia/ical docum5ts1 :i* has n[ become a v great r>ity4 ,f ! %r$ ( ! alt>-clo? itself to :i* x is sew$1 t l951 ) its f9e diap]+ & its two blue /ripes1 diap]$1 too1 & v]tically wov5 91 mu/ h be5 ( a co/ly k9d1 & l>ge en\gh to ov]spread ! :ole table ( ! alt>1 s t ?is blue frontlet fell d[n 9 front4 ,! ,lat9 inscription1 ea* ^w p>t$ by a wrea?1 f f\r p>ts ( :i* %oot sprigs ( fl[]s1 reads ?us3--8,o ,gloriosum lum5 ec7c7lesi>um funde preces pro salute populorum40 ,! lett]s1 z well z all ! floral ornam5tation ( ?is %ort pray]1 are wr\ght 9 pieces ( l95 /it*$ on ) r$ ?read2 & bel[ is a wor/$ p>ti-col\r$ fr+e1 #a in*es deep4 ,= ! use ( ! frontlet 9 ,engl&1 dur+ ! m$ival p]iod1 ! read] may consult ! 8,*ur* ( our ,fa!rs10 i4 #bch4 #hgjf4 ,an ,alt>-,frontal 9 v d>k br[n co>se clo?1 on :i* are appli$ armorial %ields1 & ! gr\nd is fill$ 9 ) fl[]-be>+ bran*es1 9 wor/$ & silk4 ,g]man1 beg9n+ ( #af? c5tury4 #g feet #h in*es by #d feet #a in*4 ,?\gh ( s late a p]iod1 ?is alt>-frontal c tea* ^? /udi\s ( su* appliances h[ readily & effectively su* works may be wr\ght4 ,! :ole is divid$ into eight squ>es2 9 ! middle ( ea* is put a %ield alt]nat+ ) ano!r 9 its blazon1 ! fir/ be+ or1 ?ree he>ts gules1 two & "o1 betwe5 ?ree b5dlets sable2 ! second1 arg5t1 an eagle sable on an ar*$ b\gh raguly azure 9 ! dext] base4 ,! ramifications tw9+ all ov] ! gr\nd are done 9 light br[n broad wor/$ ?reads /it*$ on ) :ite ?read2 & ! fl[]s1 all se$$ & b>b$1 "s :ite1 "s yell[1 z if 9 accordance ) ! t9ts ( ! two %ields1 are done 9 silk4 ,at bottom ?is frontal has be5 edg$ ) a deep fr+e1 p>ti-col\r$ :ite & black4 #hgjg4 ,*asuble1 blue cut velvet2 patt]n1 "o ( ! pomegranate =ms1 ) orphreys4 ,g]man1 late #ae? c5tury4 #i feet #e in*es by #d feet #i in*es4 ,to ! liturgical /ud5t fond ( ve/m5ts 9 _! l>ge/1 mo/ maje/ic %apes1 ?is *asuble w af=d great satisfaction1 z x is "o ( ! few kn[n t h n be5 cut d[n4 ,! front orphrey is a piece ( n>r[ poor web1 once ( gold1 b n mu* worn2 ! h9d orphrey is a long cross1 raguly or knott$1 ) our ,"l nail$ to x2 above is ! ,et]nal ,fa!r we>+ an imp]ial cr[n ( gold l9$ crimson1 & 9 ! act ( bless+1 betwe5 :om & our ,savi\r is ! ,holy ,gho/ 9 %ape ( a silv] dove ) outspread w+s4 ,at foot is ! gr\p ( ! ,bless$ ,virg9 ,m>y fa9t+1 & h9d]$ f fall+ by ,/4 ,john4 #hgjh4 ,! ,blue ,l95 ,l9+ ( a ,dalmatic1 ) ! p>ti-col\r$ fr+e bord]+ ! front ( ! ve/m5t1 & "s o!r fragm5ts4 #d feet #a in*es by #e feet #g in*es4 ,! silk ,sicilian1 #ad? c5tury4 ,! silk is mu* l ! specim5 fully describ$ "u ,no4 #hbfc4 #hgji4 ,alt>-,frontal ( grey l951 figur$ 9 ne$lework1 ) fl[]s1 />s1 & h]aldic animals1 on alt]nat+ squ>es ( pla9 l95 & net-"w4 ,g]man1 #ae? c5tury4 #i feet #e in*es by #d feet #b in*es4 ,?is important piece ( /it*]y 0 nev] meant = a cov]+ to ! table or upp] "p ( ! alt>2 x s]v$ z a frontal to x1 & 0 hung be=e1 & at ea* corn] ( ! alt> s z to cov] x & its two sides d[n to ! gr\nd4 ,f all its ornam5ts hav+ an armorial feel+ ab\t !m1 ?is elaborate piece ( ne$lework w\ld seem to h be5 wr\ght by ! h&s ( "s noble lady1 :o took ! blazon ( h] h\se = its adornm5t4 ,at ! l[] "p1 9 ! middle1 is a %ield ( arms arg5t1 *>g$ ) two b>s once gules2 high above1 a /> ( eight po9ts void$ gules2 bel[1 a fleur-de-lis b>r$ arg5t & gules2 at ea* ( ! f\r corn]s ( ! squ>e a maneless lion rampant b>r$ arg5t & gules4 ,to ! "r1 on ! same level1 a squ>e fill$ 9 ) fleurs-de-lis2 !n a squ>e ) birds & bea/s unkn[n to ,engli% h]aldry3 ! birds1 natant1 h heads ( ! de] k9d1 horn$1 & ! bea/s a beak$ head ) a s+le ar*$ horn com+ out ( ! =ehead ) ! po9t ( ! b[ 9 front2 bo? birds & bea/s are pal$ arg5t & gules4 ,on ! next squ>e are />s ( eight po9ts1 & fl[]s ) eight petals1 )9 quatrefoils all arg5t1 ^u a field 7! nett+7 gules4 ,! la/ squ>e is sep>at$ into ?ree pales ea* *>g$ ) a fl[]-l ornam5t alt]nately arg5t & gules4 ,above ?is squ>e is ano!r ( net gules1 *>g$ ) f\r fl[]s arg5t2 &1 go+ to ! left1 we h a squ>e %[+ two be>s combatant b>r$ arg5t & gules2 /ill to ! left1 birds at re/1 & />s alt]nat+ arg5t ^u a squ>e ( net gules4 ,next to ?is a l>ge antelope tripp+ pal$ arg5t & gules2 !n a squ>e hav+ lions rampant )9 loz5ges ) a f\r-petal$ fl[] at e po9t1 all arg5t1 on a field 7( net7 gules4 ,foll[+ ?is is a l>ge dog1 man$ & rampant b>r$ arg5t & gules2 to ?is succe$s a squ>e ( net gules *>g$ ) loz5ges1 hav+ ov] ea* po9t a mascle1 & )9 !m />s ( eight po9ts all arg5t4 ,! la/ squ>e to ! left on ?is middle r[ is *>g$ ) a he>t-%ap$ ornam5t void$ 9 ! =m ( a fleur-de-lis1 & put 9 ?ree piles ( f\r ) fl[]s betwe54 ,! only o!r squ>e diff]+ f ^? j notic$ are ! two *>g$ ) an animal ( ! de] k9d1 ) antl]s q /raight4 ,! n>r[ bord]s at ! sides are n ! lea/ curi\s p>ts ( ?is int]e/+ specim52 t on ! left h& is made up ( a dog runn+ aft] a be>d$ antelope1 :i* is confront$ by a griff9 s repeat$ z to fill up ! :ole l9e4 ,! bord] on ! "r h& is made up ( ! bea/ ) ! "o horn4 #hgaj4 ,alb ( ,:ite ,l95 app>el$ at ! cuffs1 & be=e & beh9d at ! feet1 ) crimson & gold /uff figur$ ) animals & floriations ( ! looms ( ,pal]mo4 ,sicilian1 #ad? c5tury4 #e feet #g in*es long1 #d feet across ! %\ld]s1 )\t ! sleeves4 ,= ^? curi\s 9 liturgical appliances ?is f9e alb ( ! m$ival p]iod w be a valuable object ( /udy1 ?\gh p]haps n = imitation 9 ! way 9 :i* x is wid5$ at ! wai/4 ,its l>ge op5+ at ! neck--#a foot #d in*es--is some:at scallop$1 b )\t any slit d[n ! front1 or ga!r+s1 or b&4 ,on ea* %\ld]1 runn+ d[n #a foot #c in*es1 is a n>r[ piece ( cro*et-"w inscrib$ 9 r$ lett]s ) ! names 8,,jesus10 8,,m>ia40 ,! full sleeves1 f #a foot #f in*es wide1 are gradually n>r[$ to #f in*es at ! end ( ! app>els at ! cuffs1 :i* are #d in*es deep & edg$ ) gre5 l95 tape4 ,at ! wai/1 :]e x is #c feet #aj in*es1 x is made1 by means ( ga!r+s ^u a gusset embroid]$ ) a cross-crosslet 9 r$ ?read1 to wid5 itself into #f feet1 or #ab feet all r\nd4 ,d[n ! middle1 be=e & beh9d1 z f> z ! app>els1 is let 9 a n>r[ piece ( cro*et-"w l t ^u ! %\ld]s1 b un9scrib$4 ,! two app>els at ! feet--"o be=e1 ! o!r beh9d--v>y 9 _! dim5sions1 "o measur+ #a foot #a in* by #a foot #a in*es1 ! o!r1 :i* is made up ( fragm5ts1 #a foot by #aa in*es4 ,v elaborate & freely design$ is ! h]aldic patt]n on ! ri* /uff :i* =ms ! app>els4 ,! gr\nd is ( silk1 n[ fad$1 b once a bright crimson2 ! figures1 all 9 gold1 are an eagle 9 demi-vol1 langu$1 ) a ducal cr[n1 n ^u1 b ov] its head2 above ?is is a mass ( cl\ds ) p5cils ( sun-rays d>t+ f b5ea? !m all ar\nd2 high] up aga91 a coll>$ h>t lodg$1 ) its p>k set betwe5 two l>ge bell-%ap$ se$$ droop+ fl[]s1 b5ea? ea* ( :i* is a dog coll>$ & c\rant4 ,= ,engli% antiqu>ies1 x may be int]e/+ to "k t ^u ! mantle & kirtle 9 ! monum5tal effigy ( ,k+ ,ri*>d ,,ii1 9 ,we/m9/] ,abbey1 ! h>t z well z ! cl\d ) rays =m ! patt]n on ^? royal g>m5ts1 & are well %[n 9 ! valuable b unf9i%$ 8,monum5tal ,effigies ( ,great ,brita910 by ! late bro!rs ,hollis4 ,?is alb is figur$1 b n well ) reg>d to ! app>els1 by ,dr4 ,bock1 9 8 8,ges*i*te d] ,liturgis*5 ,gewnd] des ,mittelalt]s10 #d ,lief]ung1 pl4 iii1 fig4 #a4 #hgaa4 ,*asuble1 ,clo? (1 n[ tawny1 once crimson1 silk2 patt]n1 animals amid floriations4 ,sicilian1 #ad? c5tury4 #d feet #e in*es by #c feet #f in*es4 ,made ( precisely ! same ri* & beautiful /uff employ$ 9 ! app>els ( ! alb j notic$1 ,no4 #hgaj1 ! elaborate design ( :i* is "h se5 9 all its p]fectness4 ,! *asuble itself has be5 mu* cut away f its fir/ l>ge %ape4 #hgab4 ,"p ( a l>ge ,piece ( ,ne$lework1 done ^u l95 9 col\r$ wor/$s1 figur$ ) a k+ & que5 seat$ toge!r on a ,go?ic ?rone1 & a "y pr9cess sitt+ at ! que5's feet4 ,all ab\t are inscriptions4 ,g]man 7871 #ae? c5tury4 #e feet #f in*es by #c feet #aj in*es4 ,w(ully cut z ?is l>ge "w has be51 en\gh rema9s to make x v int]e/+4 ,! k+1--^: broad-to$ %oes1 z well z ! v little dog at 8 feet1 w n escape notice1--holds a royal sceptre 9 8 left h&1 & ar\nd 8 head runs a scroll be>+ ?is inscription1 8,inclitus ,rex ,alfridus ex ytalia ,pacis amator40 ,ab\t ! head ( ! que51 :i* is wimpl$1 ! scroll is writt5 )1 8,pia ,hildeswit ,fundatrix ,p5it5 7871 ,ao4 ,mo4 ,,xiio40 ,bel[ ! pr9cess1 ^: hair1 z t ( a maid51 falls all ab\t h] %\ld]s1 & ^: diadem is n a royal "o1 nor jewell$ l ^? worn by ! k+ & que51 runs a scroll be>+ ^! words1 8,alb]gissa ,abbatissa40 ,j "u ! k+1 on a broad b&1 comes--8o4 dpnacionis 7damnationis7 9 40 ,at top1 on a broad bright crimson gr\nd1 9 l>ge yell[ lett]s1 we read--8v 7ex voto87 hoc opus completum 7e/740 ,f dropp+s ( wax /ill ^u x1 ?is curi\s piece ( ne$lework mu/ h be5 us$ some:]e ab\t an alt>--v likely z a sort ( r]$os2 & f ! inscription1 x w\ld seem to h be5 wr\ght z an ex voto (f]+4 #hgac4 ,piece ( ,ne$lework1 9 silk1 ^u l951 figur$ ) ,/4 ,b>?olomew & ,/4 ,paul1 ea* /&+ b5ea? a r\nd ar*4 ,g]man1 e>ly #ab? c5tury4 #b feet #h in*es by #a foot #f in*es4 ,! l95 ^u :i* ?is v5]able specim5 ( embroid]y is done %[s a v f9e texture2 b ! silk 9 :i* ! :ole is wr\ght is ( su* an inf]ior quality t1 at fir/ sight1 ?\gh s(t to ! t\*1 x looks l ! bett] sort ( untwi/$ cotton ?read4 ,su* p>ts ( ! design z 7 meant to be :ite are left uncov]$ ^u ! l951 & ! %ad+ is indicat$ by br[n l9es4 ,z su* e>ly examples are sc>ce1 ?is is a great curiosity4 ,dr4 ,bock has figur$ x 9 8 8,ges*i*te d] ,liturgis*5 ,gewnd] des ,mittelalt]s10 #b ,lief]ung1 pl4 viii4 #hidb4 ,p]sian ,tunic1 crimson sat91 embroid]$ 9 v>i\s-col\r$ silks aft] %awl-patt]ns1 ) a d\ble-m\!d long pocket 9 front4 #d feet by #c feet4 #higc4 ,piece ( ,embroid]$ ,silk2 gr\nd1 blue silk2 patt]n1 fl[]s 9 col\r$ flos-silks & gold ?read1 & broad b& figur$ ) wood-nymphs1 syr5s1 boys1 & an animal half a fi% & half a lion4 ,italian1 #ag? c5tury4 #f feet in* by #c feet #a in*es4 ,no d\bt ?is embroid]y s]v$ z dome/ic decoration4 ,x may h be5 employ$ z ! front to a lady's dress+-table4 #hige4 ,c\nt]pane2 gr\nd1 ?read net1 embroid]$ ) foliage & fl[]s 9 v>i\s silks4 ,italian1 #af? c5tury4 #h feet by #g feet #aj in*es4 ,! flos-silks us$ are ( a bright col\r1 & ! :ole 0 work$ 9 n>r[ slips sew$ toge!r 9 places ) yell[ silk2 9 o!r p>ts ! jo9+s 7 cov]$ by a n>r[ silk lace ( a pleas+ design4 #higf4 ,frontal to an ,alt>2 gr\nd1 crimson2 patt]n1 sacr$ subjects & sa9ts1 "s 9 gold1 "s 9 yell[ silk4 ,v5etian1 e>ly #af? c5tury4 #f feet #f in*es by #b feet #c in*es4 ,?is frontal is made out ( pieces ( wov5 orphreys1 & by ! way 9 :i* ^? pieces are put toge!r we "k t !y mu/ h be5 tak5 f old ve/m5ts1 "s ( :i* _h be5 mu* us$4 ,x is compos$ ( n9e /ripes or pales ( broad orphrey-web2 & all[+ = ! two end pales be+ br\ght r\nd ! ends ( ! alt> :5 hung !re1 x w\ld !n pres5t sev5 /ripes or pales to ! eye4 ,look+ at x ?us1 we f9d ! fir/ pale ( crimson silk1 figur$ 9 yell[ silk1 ) ! ,b4 ,v4 ,m>y hold+ our ,"l z an infant on h] lap1 ) ! mund or t]raque\s globe surm\nt$ by a cross 9 ,8 "r h&1 amid a /rap-l foliation2 ! next pale ( crimson silk is figur$ 9 gold1 ) a sa9t-bi%op ve/$ 9 alb1 /ole cross$ ov] 8 brea/1 & cope1 & we>+ jewell$ gloves1 ) 8 pa/oral /aff 9 8 "r h&4 ,! ?ird pale1 9 yell[ silk ^u a crimson gr\nd1 pres5ts u our ,"l's tomb1 ) soldi]s wat*+ x1 & our ,"l ,himself upris+1 ) ,8 "r h& giv+ a bless+1 & 9 ,8 left a bann]1 & by ,8 side *]ubic heads4 ,! f\r? pale at top gives u ! ,b4 ,v4 ,m>y & our infant ,savi\r 9 h] arms1 v mu* worn away1 & b5ea?1 ,/4 ,pet] ) 8 keys1 9 gold ^u crimson4 ,! o!r pales are b repetitions ( ! =ego+4 ,altoge!r1 ?is frontal1 ?read-b>e z x is 9 places1 is well wor? ! att5tion ( ^? :o int]e/ !mselves 9 ! hi/ory ( ,v5etian design1 & ! art ( weav+4 #higg4 ,hood to a ,cope2 gr\nd1 two %ades ( yell[ silk2 subject1 ! ,assumption ( ! ,bless$ ,virg9 ,m>y4 ,v5etian1 #af? c5tury4 #a foot #d in*es by #a foot #c in*es4 ,)9 an oval1 upheld by f\r angels1 & radiant ) glory1 & hav+ a *]ubic head b5ea? h]1 ! ,b4 ,v4 ,m>y is ris+ heav5w>d f h] tomb1 out ( :i* lilies are spr++1 & by x ,/4 ,?omas on 8 knees is rea*+ out 8 h& to cat* ! girdle dropp$ d[n to him4 ,on an oval ^u ! face ( ! tomb is writt5 8,assunta e/10 l :at is %[n 9 o!r pieces 9 ?is collection4 #high4 ,piece ( ,silk ,orphrey ,web2 gr\nd1 crimson2 patt]n1 ! ,coronation1 9 heav51 ( ! ,bless$ ,virg9 ,m>y1 9 yell[4 ,v5etian1 #af? c5tury4 #a foot #g in*es by #aj in*es4 ,?is design1 ?\gh treat$ aft] ! tradition ( ! ,italian s*ools1 has "o peculi>ity4 ,on ! royal diadem :i* our ,"l1 :o we>s1 z ,great ,high ,prie/ ( ! new law1 a triple-cr[n$ ti>a1 is putt+ on ! head ( ,8 "m a l>ge /> is conspicu\sly %[n2 "o ( ! titles ( ,/4 ,m>y is 8/ella m>is10 /> ( ! sea1 :i* w\ld n be =gott5 by a seaf>+ p l ! ,v5etians4 #higi4 ,tissue ( ,crimson ,silk & ,gold ,?read2 patt]n1 ! ,bless$ ,virg9 ,m>y 9 glory1 amid *]ubic heads1 & hav+ two angels1 "o on ea* side1 /&+ on cl\ds4 ,v5etian1 #af? c5tury4 #a foot #d in*es by #a foot4 ,! subject1 a fav\rite "o ( ! "t1 is ! ,assumption ( ! ,b4 ,v4 ,m>y1 & ! tissue 0 wov5 entirely = ! adornm5t ( liturgical furniture4 #ijdg4 ,cu%ion1 elaborately wr\ght by ! ne$le on f9e canvas1 & figur$ ) animals1 armorial be>+s1 fl[]s1 & love-knots1 z well z ) ! lett]s ,i & ,r royally cr[n$4 ,scot*1 #ag? c5tury4 #aa in*es by #h in*es4 ,we h on ! fir/ l>ge pane a rose tree1 be>+ "o r$ rose se$$ or1 b>b$ v]t1 & at its foot1 b sep>at+ !m1 two unicorns arg5t1 outl9$ & horn$ 9 silv] ?read2 above !m1 & sep>at$ by ! r$ rose1 two lions passant1 face to face1 langu$ & outl9$ 9 gold ?read2 above ! fl[] a royal cr[n or1 & two small knots or1 & at ea* side a :ite rose slipp$2 ov] ea* unicorn a gold knot1 & a /rawb]ry prop]4 ,b5ea? ?is l>g] %ield are ?ree small ones3 ! fir/1 fretty or1 & v]t 7b s manag$ t ! field takes ! %ape ( /rawb]ry leaves71 *>g$ ) f\r true-love-knots or1 & 9 *ief v]t1 a /rawb]ry bran* or wire or1 be>+ "o fruit prop]1 & "o fl[] arg5t2 ! second %ield gives u1 on a field azure1 & )9 an orle ( circles l9k$ toge!r on f\r sides by gold5 b&s1 & *>g$ ) /rawb]ry fruit1 & leaf1 & fl[] prop]1 & alt]nat+1 a plume ( ,pr9ce ( ,wales's fea!rs arg5t1 ) ! quill ( ! middle fea!r m>k$ r$ or gules1 at ea* ( ! f\r corn]s !re is a true-love-knot 9 gold2 ! ?ird small %ield is a s]ies ( circles outl9$ 9 gold1 & fill$ 9 ) quatrefoils outl9$ gre52 bel[1 on a l>ge gre5 pane1 a :ite rose slipp$1 ) grapes & acorns2 by its side1 ! capital lett]s1 9 gold1 ,i & ,r1 ) a /rawb]ry & leaf close by ea* lett]1 & above all1 & betwe5 two love-knots1 a regal cr[n4 ,by ! sides ( ?is device are sev]al small panes1 exhibit+ fanciful patt]ns ( fl[]s1 c43 b 9 mo/ ( !m ! true-love-knot z well z ! /rawb]ry plant1 9 "o comb9ation or ano!r1 are ! pr9cipal elem5ts2 & 9 "o ( ! squ>es or panes ! ornam5tation evid5tly affects ! %ape ( ! capital lett] ,s2 ^u ! o!r side1 ) an orle ( knots ( diff]5t k9ds1 is figur$ a m]maid on ! sea1 ) a comb 9 "o h&1 & on "o side ( ?is pane is %[n a high-born dame1 ^: fan1 seem+ly ( fea!rs1 is v conspicu\s4 ,und]nea? ! m]maid are %[n1 ^u a field v]t1 a man ) a /aff1 amid f\r rabbits1 ea* ) a /rawb]ry-leaf 9 its m\?1 & at ea* f> corn] a /ag4 ,z on ! o!r side1 s "h ! l>g] squ>es are surr\nd$ by small] ones display+ 9 _! design true-love-knots1 /rawb]ries1 acorns1 roses1 :ite & r$1 & 9 "o pane ! comb9ation1 9 a sort ( net-"w1 ( ! true-love-knot ) ! lett] ,s1 is v /rik+4 ,9 ,scotl& sev]al noble families1 :e!r !y spell _! "n ,fras] or ,fraz]1 use1 z a cant+ *>ge 9 _! blazon1 ! frasi] or /rawb]ry1 leaf$1 fl[]$1 & fruct$ prop]2 ! buck1 too1 comes 9 ^u or ab\t _! armorial %ields4 ,& ?is may h be5 work$ by a memb] ( t family4 #ijdg;,a4 ,silk ,damask2 gr\nd1 :ite2 patt]n1 wrea?s ( fl[]s & fruits1 9 net-"w1 ea* me% fill$ 9 ) two peacocks b5ea? a l>ge bun* ( r$ c5taurea1 or corn-fl[]s4 ,sicilian1 late #ae? c5tury4 #b feet #c in*es by #a foot #h in*es4 ,! g>l&s ( ! me%es1 made out ( b\ghs ( oak be>+ r$ & blue acorns1 h1 at foot1 two eagles r$ & blue2 at top1 two gre5 p>rots b5ea? a bun* ( pomegranates1 ! fruit ( :i* is r$ & crack$1 %[+ its blue se$ ready to fall out4 ,! corn-fl[] is spread =? l a fan4 ,?is /uff %[s ! m>k ( ,spani% rule ov] ! two ,sicilies4 #iahb4 ,! ,syon ,mona/]y ,cope2 gr\nd1 gre51 ) crimson int]lac+ b>b$ quatrefoils enclos+ figures ( our ,"l1 ! ,bless$ ,virg9 ,m>y1 ! ,apo/les1 ) w+$ *]ubim /&+ on :eels 9 ! int]v5+ spaces1 & ! orphrey1 morse1 & hem wr\ght ) armorial be>+s1 ! :ole done 9 gold1 silv]1 & v>i\s-col\r$ silks4 ,engli% ne$lework1 #ac? c5tury4 #i feet #g in*es by #d feet #h in*es4 ,illu/ration3 #iahb4 ,,"p ,,( ,,! ,,orphrey ,,( ,,! ,,syon ,,cope4 ,engli%1 #ac? c5tury4 ,v9c5t ,brooks ,day ,son1 ,li?4 ,?is h&some cope1 s v rem>kable on acc\nt ( its comp>ative p]fect pres]vation1 is "o ( ! mo/ beautiful among ! sev]al liturgic ve/m5ts ( ! old5 p]iod any:]e to be n[ f\nd 9 *ri/5dom4 ,if by all lov]s ( m$ival antiquity x w be look$ ^u z s valuable a specim5 9 art ( its k9d & "t1 = e ,engli%man x ought to h a d\ble int]e/1 %[+1 z x does1 su* a spl5did & in/ructive example ( ! 8,opus ,anglicum10 or ,engli% "w1 :i* won = itself s wide a fame1 & 0 s eag]ly s\ght aft] ?r\gh\t ! :ole ( ,europe dur+ ! middle ages4 ,beg9n+ ) ! middle ( ?is cope1 we h1 at ! l[]mo/ "p1 ,/4 ,mi*ael ov]com+ ,satan2 sugge/$ by ^? v]ses ( ,/4 ,john1 8,& !re 0 a great battle 9 heav51 ,mi*ael & 8 angels f\ght ) ! dragon1 & ! dragon f\ght & 8 angels2 444 & t great dragon 0 ca/ out1 t old s]p5t1 :o is call$ ! ,devil & ,satan10 c4--,rev4 xii4 #g1 #i1 to :i* may be add$ ! words ( ! ,engli% ,gold5 ,leg5d3 8,! f\r? victorye is t t ?>*aungell ,my*aell %al h ( ,antecry/ :an he %all flee hym4 ,?an ,mi*aell ! grete prynce %all aryse1 z x is sayd ,danielis xii1 ,he %all aryse = !m t b5 *os5 z an help] & a protect\r & %all /rongely /&e ay5/ ,antecry/ 444 & at ! la/ he 7,anti*ri/7 %all m\nt ^u ! m\nt ( ,olyvete1 & :an he %all be 444 entr$ 9 to t place :]e our ,lorde asc5d$ ,my*aell %all come & %all flee hym1 ( :i*e victorye is und]/ond5 aft] saynt ,gregorye t :y*e is sayd 9 ?apocalipsis1 ! batayll is made 9 hev510 7fol4 cclxx4 b474 ,z he tramples ^u ! wri?+ demon1 ! ar*angel1 b>efoot1 & clad 9 gold5 g>m5ts1 & we>+ w+s ( gold & silv] fea!rs1 ?ru/s d[n 8 ?roat & out ?r\gh 8 neck a lance1 ! %aft ( :i* is tipp$ ) a gold5 cross crosslet1 :ile f 8 left arm he lets d[n an azure %ield blazon$ ) a silv] cross4 ,! next quatrefoil above ?is "o is fill$ 9 ) ! ,crucifixion4 ,"h ! ,bless$ ,virg9 ,m>y is array$ 9 a gre5 tunic1 & a gold5 mantle l9$ ) vair or co/ly :ite fur1 & h] head is k]*ief$1 & h] uplift$ h&s are sorr[fully clasp$2 ,/4 ,john--^: dress is all ( gold--) a m\rnful look1 is on ! left1 at ! foot ( ! cross ^u :i* ! ,savi\r1 wr\ght all 9 silv]--a mo/ unusual ?+1--) a clo? ( gold wrapp$ ab\t ,8 lo9s1 is fa/5$ by ?ree1 n f\r1 nails4 ,! way 9 :i* ! ribs are %[n & ! *e/ ?r[n up 9 ! p]son ( our ,"l is q aft] old ,engli% feel+s on ! subject4 ,9 ! book ( s]mons call$ ! 8,fe/ival0 x is said1 ) /rong emphasis1 h[ 8,cri/es body 0 draw5 on ! crosse z a skyn ( p>*em5t on a h>[1 s t all hys bonys myght be tolde10 fol4 xxxiii4 ,9 ! highe/ quatrefoil ( all is figur$ ! ,r$eem] upris51 cr[n$ z a k+ & seat$ on a cu%ion$ ?rone4 ,re/+ ^u ,8 knee1 & /eadi$ by ,8 left h&1 is ! mund or ball repres5t+ ! e>?--! _w4 ,curi\sly en\gh1 ?is mund is di/+ui%$ into ?ree p>ts1 ( :i* ! l>g] "o--an upp] horizontal hemicycle--is col\r$ crimson 7n[ fad$ to a br[ni% t9t71 b ! l[] hemicycle is divid$ v]tically 9 two1 ( :i* "o portion is col\r$ gre51 ! o!r :ite or silv]$4 ,! likelihood is1 t su* m>k+s 7 meant to %[ ! !n only kn[n ?ree p>ts ( our globe2 = if ! elem5ts 7 h]eon int5d$1 !re w\ld h be5 f\r qu>t]s--fire1 wat]1 e>?1 & heav52 in/ead1 too1 ( ! upp] half be+ crimson$1 x w\ld h be5 t9t$1 l ! heav5s1 blue4 ,fur!rmore1 ! symbolism ( ^? days w\ld put1 z we "h see1 ?is mund "u ! sov]eign h& ( ! ,savi\r1 z sett+ =? ! ,psalmi/'s words1 8,! e>? is ! ,"l's1 & ! fulness !re(1 ! _w & all t dwell !re920 :ile its r\nd %ape--itself ! emblem ( endlessness--mu/ naturally br+ to m9d t ev]la/+ ,be+--! ,alpha & ! ,omega spok5 ( 9 ! ,apocalypse--! beg9n+ & ! end1 ,:o is & ,:o 01 & ,:o is to come--! ,almighty4 ,/ret*+ =? ,8 "r arm1 ) ,8 ?umb & fir/ two f+]s uprais$--emblem ( "o ,god 9 ?ree p]sons--,he is giv+ ,8 bless+ to ,8 "m4 ,clo!d 9 a gre5 tunic1 ov] :i* falls a gold5 mantle l9$ ) vair or :ite fur1 %e is seat$ on ! ?rone beside ,him1 ) h&s uprais$ 9 pray]4 ,x ought n to be ov]look$1 t :ile ! ,bless$ ,virg9 ,m>y we>s ornam5t$ %oes1 our ,"l1 l ,8 mess5g]s1 ! angels & apo/les1 is b>efoot4 ,to %[ t z ,he _h said to ^? :om ,he s5t be=e ,8 face1 t !y 7 to c>ry nei!r purse1 nor scrip1 nor %oes1 s !re=e1 is ,he ,himself "h & else:]e figur$ %oeless4 ,?\gh already 9 heav51 /ill1 out ( rev]5ce t[>ds ,him1 ! head ( ,8 "m is k]*ief$1 z x w\ld h be5 7 %e yet on e>? & pres5t at ! sacr$ liturgy4 ,john ,bele?1 an ,engli%man1 :o1 9 ,a4,d4 #aafb1 a %ort c5tury be=e ?is cope 0 work$1 wrote a book ^u ! ,*ur* ,ritual1 lays x d[n z an unb5d+ rule t1 :ile m5 are to he> ! ,gospel b>e-head$1 all wom51 :atev] be _! age1 rank1 or condition1 mu/ nev] be uncov]$1 & if a "y maid5 be s h] "m or any o!r female ought to ca/ a clo? ( "s sort ov] h] head2--8,viri1 itaque 444 ap]to capite ,evangelium audire deb5t4444 ,muli]es v]o deb5t audire ,evangelium tecto et velato capite etiamsi sit virgo1 propt] pomum vetitum4 ,et si ev5iat ut virgo capite sit ap]to1 ut velam5 non habeat1 necesse e/1 ut mat]1 aut quvis alia muli] capiti ejus pannum vel simile quippiam imponat40 ,div94 ,(fic4 ,explic4 c4 xxxix4 p4 #ejg4 ,! next two subjects n[ to be describ$ are--"o1 t on ! "r h&1 ! dea? ( ! ,bless$ ,virg9 ,m>y2 ! o!r1 to ! left1 h] burial4 ,to fully und]/& ! tradition>y treatm5t ( bo?1 x w\ld be well to give ! words ( ,caxton's ,engli% translation ( ! 8,gold5 ,leg5d10 f ! edition 8emprynt$ at ,london1 9 ,flete/rete at ye sygne ( ye ,sonne1 by ,wynkyn de ,worde1 9 ye y]e ( our ,lorde ,m4,,ccccxvii10 a sc>ce & co/ly "w n )9 easy rea*4 8,we fynde 9 a booke s5te to saynt ,johan ! evangelys1 or elles ! boke :i*e is sayd to be apocryphum 444 9 :at man] ! ,assumpcyon ( ! blessyd vyrgyn saynt ,m>ye 0 made 444 ^u a daye :an all ! apo/les 7 spradde ?r\gh ! worlde 9 pre*ynge1 ! glory\s vyrgyne 0 gretely esprys$ & enbrac$ wy? desyre to be wy? h] sone ,ihesu ,cry/e 444 & an aungell came t(ore h] ) grete lyghte & salew$ h] hon\rably z ! "m ( 8 ,lorde1 say5ge1 ,all hayle blessyd ,m>ie4444 ,loo "h is a b[e ( palme ( p>adyse1 lady1 444 :i*e ?\ %alte commaunde to be borne t(ore ?y b]e1 = ?y s\le %all be tak5 f ?y body ! ?yrde daye nexte fol[ynge2 & ?y ,sone abyde? !e ,8 hon\rable mod]4444 ,all ! apo/les %all assemble ?is daye to !e & %all make to !e noble exequyes at ?y passynge1 & 9 ! pres5ce ( !ym all ?\ %alte gyve up ?y spyryte4 ,= he t br\ghte ! prophete 7,habacuc7 by an he] f ,judee to ,babylon 7,daniel xiv4 #ce1 accord+ to ! ,vulgate7 may )\t d\bte sodeynly 9 an h\re brynge ! apo/les to !e4444 ,& x happ5$ z ,saynt ,johan ! euangely/ pre*$ 9 ,ephesym ! hev5 sodeynly ?ondr$ & a :yte cl\de toke hym up & br\ght hym t(ore ! gate ( ! blessyd vyrgyne ,m>ye at ,j]usalem 7:o7 sayd to hym1 444 ,loo ,i am call$ ( ?y may/] & my ,god1 444 ,i h h]de saye t ! ,jewes h made a c\nseyll & sayd1 let u abyde bre?r5 unto ! tyme t %e t b>e ,jhesu ,cri/ be de$1 & !nne incontyn5te we %all take h] body & %all ca/e x 9 to ! fyre & br5ne x4 ,?\ !re=e take ?is palme & b]e x t(ore ! b]e :an ye %all b]e my body to ! sepulcre4 ,?an sayd ,johan1 ,o wolde ,god t all my bre?r5 ! apo/les 7 "h t we myght make ?yn exequyes cov5able z x hove? & is dygne & wor?y4 ,& z he sayd t1 all ! apo/les 7 ravys%$ ) cl\des f ! places :]e !y pre*$ & 7 br\ght t(ore ! dore ( ! blessyd vyrgyn ,m>y4444 ,& ab\te ! ?yrde h\re ( ! nyght ,jhesu ,cri/ came ) swete melodye & songe ) ! ordre ( aungelles4444 ,fyr/ ,jhesu ,cri/ began to saye1 ,come my *os5 & ,i %all set !e 9 my sete 444 come fro ,lybane my sp\se4 ,come f ,lybane4 ,come ?\ %alte be cr[n$4 ,& %e sayd ,i come1 = 9 ! begynnynge ( ! booke x is wryt5 ( me t ,i %olde doo ?y wyll1 = my spyryte ha? joy$ 9 !e ! ,god ( hel?2 & ?us 9 ! mornynge ! s\le yssu$ out ( ! body & fl$de up 9 ! armes ( h] sone4444 ,& ?an ! apo/les toke ! body hon\rably & layde x on ! b]e4--,& ?an ,pet] & ,paule lyfte up ! b]e1 & ,pet] began to synge & saye ,israhell is yssu$ out ( ,egypt1 & ! o!r apo/les fol[$ hym 9 ! same songe1 & our ,lorde cov]$ ! b]e & ! apo/les ) a cl[de1 s t !y 7 n se5 b ! voyce ( !m 0 onely h]de1 & ! aungelles 7 ) ! apo/les syngynge1 & ?an all ! p 0 mov$ ) t swete melodye1 & yssu$ out ( ! cyte & enquyr$ :at x 04--,& ?an !re 7 "s t sayd t ,m>ye su*e a woman 0 de$1 & ! dyscyples ( h] sone ,jhesu ,cri/ b>e h]1 & made su*e melodye4 ,& !nne ranne !y to armes & !y w>n$ e*e o!r say5ge1 ,come & let u slee all ! dysciples & let u br5ne ! body ( h] t b>e ?is trayt\re4 ,& :an ! prynce ( pre/es sawe t he 0 all aba%$ &1 full ( angre & wra? sayd1 ,loo1 "h ! tab]nacle ( hym t ha? tr\bl$ u1 & our lygnage1 beholde :at glorye he n[ receyve?1 & 9 ! saynge s he layde 8 hondes on ! b]e wyllynge to turne x & ov]?r[e x to ! gr\nde4 ,?an sodeynly bo! 8 hondes wex$ drye & clev$ to ! b]e s t he h5ge by ! hondes on ! b]e & 0 sore torm5t$ & wepte & bray$4 ,& ! aungelles 444 blynd$ all ! o!r p t !y sawe no ?ynge4 ,& ! prynce ( pre/es sayd1 saynt ,pet] despyse n me 9 ?is trybulacyon1 & ,i praye !e to praye = me to our ,lorde4--,& saynt ,pet] sayd to hym--,kysse ! b]e & saye ,i byleve 9 ,god ,jhesu ,cri/4 ,& :an he _h s sayd he 0 anone all hole p]fyghtly4--,& !nne ! apo/les b>e ,m>y unto ! monum5t 79 ! ,vale ( ,josaphat outside ,j]usalem7 & satte by x lyke z oure ,"l _h commaund$4 ,& at ! ?yrde daye 444 ! s\le came agayne to ! body ( ,m>ye & yssu$ glory\sly out ( ! tombe1 & ?us 0 receyv$ 9 ! hev5ly *aumbre1 & a grete company ( aungelles ) h]2 & saynt ,?omas 0 n !re2 & :an he came he wolde n byleve ?is2 & anone ! gyrdell ) :i*e h] body 0 gyrde came to hym fro ! ayre1 :i*e he receyv$1 & !rby he und]/ode t %e 0 assumpte into hev52 & all ?is x "h to =e is sayd & call$ apocryphum10 c4 ff4 ccxvi1 c4 ,) ?is key we may easily unlock :at1 o!rwise1 w\ld lie hidd51 n only ab\t ! coronation1 b1 9 an especial mann]1 ! dea? & burial1 z "h figur$1 ( ! ,bless$ ,virg9 ,m>y2 ! =m] ( ^! two is ?us repres5t$ on ! "r h& side4 ,9 h] own small h\se by ! foot ( ,m\nt ,sion1 at ,j]usalem1 is ,*ri/'s "m on h] dy+ b$4 ,f\r only ( ! apo/les--!re w\ld n h be5 room en\gh = %[+ m 9 ! quatrefoil--are /&+ by ! c\* ^u :i* %e lies1 dress$ 9 a silv] tunic almo/ :olly ov]spread ) a cov]let ( gold2 %e is bol/]$ up by a deep purple gold5 frett$ pill[4 ,/4 ,pet] is hold+ up h] head1 :ile by h] side /&s ,/4 ,paul1 clad1 l ,/4 ,pet]1 9 a gre5 tunic & a gold5 mantle2 !n ,/4 ,mat!w1 9 a blue tunic & a mantle ( gold1 hold+ 9 ! left h& 8 ,gospel1 :i* beg9s ) ! g5]ation ( our ,"l z man1 & ! p$igree ( ,m>y ,8 "m2 :ile1 9 front ( !m1 /&s ,john1 array$ 9 a %ad$ light-purple tunic1 y\?ful 9 look1 & ^: auburn hair is 9 s /rong a contra/ to ! ho>y locks ( 8 bre?r54 ,on ! left-h& side we h h] burial4 ,/ret*$ full-l5g? ^u a bi]1 ov] :i* is ?r[n a pall ( gre5 %ot ) yell[1 lies ! ,virg9 ,m>y1 h] hair hang+ loose f h] head4 ,/4 ,pet]1 kn[n by 8 keys1 ,/4 ,paul1 by 8 uplift$ sword1 are c>ry+ on _! %\ld]s "o end ( ! bi]1 9 front2 beh9d1 9 ! same (fice1 are ,/4 ,&rew br++ 8 cross ) him1 & "s o!r apo/le z 8 fell[4 ,aft] !m walks ,/4 ,?omas1 :o1 ) bo? 8 uplift$ h&s1 is cat*+ ! girdle z x drops to him f above1 :]e1 9 ! skies1 h] s\l1 9 ! %ape ( a little *ild1 is se5 /&+ upright ) clasp$ h&s1 )9 a l>ge fl[+ %eet held by two angels :o h come f heav5 to fet* x ?i!r4 ,"r be=e ! fun]al procession is a small ,jew1 :o holds 9 "o h& a scabb>d1 & ) ! o!r is un%ea?+ 8 weapon4 ,by ! side ( ! bi] /& two o!r ,jews also small 9 size--"o1 ! high prie/4 ,"o ( !m has bo? 8 arms1 ! prie/ b "o1 all twi/$ & %runk51 /ret*$ =w>d on ! bi]1 z if !y want$ to upset x2 :ile ! latt] holds 9 "o ( 8 wa/$ h&s ! gre5 b\gh ( ! palm-tree1 put into x by ,/4 ,john4 ,) reg>d to ,/4 ,?omas & ! girdle1 ?is cope1 if n ! e>lie/1 is among ! e>li] works ^u :i* t "p ( ! leg5d is figur$1 ?\gh aft] a some:at diff]5t mann] to ! "o foll[$ 9 ,italy1 :]e1 z is evid5t f sev]al specim5s1 9 ?is collection1 x f\nd su* fav\r4 ,bel[ ! burial1 we h our ,"l 9 ! g>d51 signifi$ by ! two trees 7,john xx4 #ag74 ,/ill we>+ a gre5 cr[n ( ?orns1 & array$ 9 a gold5 mantle1 our ,"l 9 ,8 left h& holds ! bann] ( ! resurrection1 & ) ,8 "r be/[s ,8 b5$iction on ! kneel+ ,magdal5e1 :o is wimpl$1 & we>s a mantle ( gre5 %ot yell[1 ov] a light purple tunic4 ,bel[1 b outside ! quatrefoil1 is a layman clad 9 gold ^u 8 knees1 & hold+ a long n>r[ scroll1 be>+ words :i* _c n[ be satisfactorily read4 ,l[]mo/ ( all we see ! apo/le ,/4 ,philip ) a book 9 ! left h&1 b ^u ! "r1 muffl$ 9 a l>ge t[el wr\ght 9 silv]1 ?ree loaves ( bread1 done p>tially 9 gold1 pil$ up "o on ! o!r1 9 ref]5ce to our ,"l's words 7,john vi4 #e71 be=e ! miracle ( fe$+ ! five ?\s&4 ,at ! left is ,/4 ,b>?olomew hold+ a book 9 "o h&1 9 ! o!r ! flay+ knife4 ,a little above him1 ,/4 ,pet] ) 8 two keys1 "o gold1 ! o!r silv]2 & some:at "u him1 to ! "r1 is ,/4 ,&rew ) 8 cross4 ,on ! o!r side ( ,/4 ,mi*ael & ! dragon is ,/4 ,james ! ,great]--sometimes call$ ( ,compo/ella1 because he lies buri$ 9 t ,spani% city--) a book 9 "o h&1 & 9 ! o!r a /aff1 & slung f 8 wri/ a wallet1 bo? emblems ( pilgrimage to 8 %r9e 9 ,galicia4 ,9 ! next quatrefoil above /&s ,/4 ,paul ) 8 usual sword1 emblem alike ( 8 m>tyrdom1 & ( ! ,_s1 :i* is ! ^w ( ,god 7,ephes4 vi4 #ag71 & a book2 l[]1 to ! "r1 ,/4 ,?omas ) 8 lance ( m>tyrdom & a book2 & /ill fur!r to ! "r1 ,/4 ,james ! ,less ) a book & ! club f :i* he receiv$ 8 dea?-/roke 7,eusebius1 book ii4 c4 #bc74 ,j above is our ,savi\r clad 9 a gold5 tunic1 & c>ry+ a /aff ov]com+ ! unbelief ( ,/4 ,?omas4 ,^u 8 knees t apo/le feels1 ) 8 "r h& held by ! ,r$eem]1 ! spe>-w\nd 9 ,8 side 7,john xx4 #bg74 ,z at ! left h&1 s "h1 q outside ! sacr$ hi/ory on ! cope1 we h ! figure ( an individual probably liv+ at ! "t ! ve/m5t 0 wr\ght4 ,! dress ( ! o!r %[s him to be a layman2 by ! %av5 cr[n ^u 8 head1 ?is p]son mu/ h be5 a cl]ic ( "s sort3 b :e!r monk1 fri>1 or secul> we _c tell1 z 8 g[n has become q b>e1 s t we see no?+ n[ b ! l[] canvas ) ! l9es drawn 9 black = ! %ad+ ( ! folds4 ,l 8 fell[ ov] aga9/ him1 ?is *ur*man holds up a scroll be>+ words :i* c no long] be read4 ,:5 new ?is cope c\ld %[1 writt5 9 tall gold lett]s m ?an an in* high1 an inscription n[ cut up & lo/1 z ! unbrok5 ^w 8,ne0 on "o ( its %r$s1 & a solit>y 8,v0 on ano!r1 are all t rema9s ( x1 ! fir/ on ! l[] "r side2 ! second1 9 ! l place1 to ! left4 ,?\gh s %ort1 ! ,lat9 ^w leads u to ?9k t x 0 ! beg9n+ ( ! an!m to ! sev5 p5it5tial psalms1 8,ne rem9isc>is1 ,dom9e1 delicta no/ra1 vel p>5tum no/rorum2 neque vindictam sumas de peccatis no/ris10 a suitable pray] = a liturgical g>m5t1 ^u :i* ! m]cies ( ! ,great ,atonem5t are s well set =? 9 ! ,crucifixion1 ! ov]?r[ ( ,anti*ri/1 & ! cr[n+ ( ! sa9ts 9 heav54 ,9 its orig9al /ate x c\ld give u1 n1 z n[1 only eight apo/les1 b _! :ole numb]4 ,ev5 z yet ! pat*es on ! "r-h& side af=d u ?ree ( ! miss+ heads1 :ile ano!r pat* to ! left %[s u ! h& ) a book1 belong+ to ! f\r?4 ,! l[] "p ( ?is ve/m5t has be5 sadly cut away1 & re%ap$ ) %r$s f itself2 & p]haps at su* a "t 7 add$ its pres5t h]aldic orphrey1 morse1 & bord]1 p]haps "s fifty ye>s aft] ! embroid]+ ( ! o!r portions ( ?is invaluable & mat*less specim5 ( ! f>-fam$ 8,opus ,anglicum10 or ,engli% ne$lework4 ,! e>ly writ]s ?r\gh\t ,*ri/5dom1 ,greek z well z ,lat91 di/+ui%$ 8n9e *oirs0 ( angels1 or ?ree great hi]>*ies1 9 ! upp] ( :i* 7 ! 8*]ubim1 or s]aphim1 & ?rones20 9 ! middle "o1 ! 8dom9ations1 virtues1 & p[]s20 9 ! l[] hi]>*y1 ! 8pr9cipalities1 angels1 & ar*angels40 ,n[1 :ile look+ at ! r l>ge numb] ( angels figur$ "h1 we %all f9d t ?is division into ?ree p>ts1 ea* "p aga9 conta9+ o!r ?ree1 has be5 accurately obs]v$4 ,l$ a good way by ,ezekiel 7i471 b n foll[+ t prophet /ep by /ep1 our m$ival draughtsm5 f\nd out = !mselves a c]ta9 angel =m4 ,to ?is !y gave a human %ape hav+ b "o head1 & t ( a comely y\?1 clo?+ him ) six w+s1 z ,isaias told 7vi4 #b7 ( ! s]aphim1 & 9 place ( ! calf's clov5 ho(s1 !y made x ) ! feet ( man2 in/ead ( its body be+ full ( eyes1 ?is feature is n un(t5 to be p]ceiv$ ^u ! w+s1 b (t5e/ ^? w+s !mselves are compos$ ( ! bright-ey$ fea!rs borr[$ f ! peacock's tail4 ,^? eight angels /&+ ^u :eels1 & s plac$ t !y are ev]y:]e by ^? quatrefoils :]e9 our ,"l's p]son comes1 may be tak5 to repres5t ! upp] hi]>*y ( ! angelic ho/2 ^? o!r angels--& two ( !m only are entire--n ^u :eels1 & f> away f our ,"l1 "o ( ! p]fect ones "u ,/4 ,pet]1 ! o!r "u ,/4 ,paul1 no d\bt belong to ! second hi]>*y2 :ile ^? two hav+ b "o1 n ?ree1 pair ( w+s1 ! fir/ "u ! dea?1 ! o!r "u ! burial ( ! ,virg91 bo? ( !m hold+ up gold5 cr[ns1 "o 9 ea* h&1 repres5t1 we may presume1 ! l[e/ ( ! ?ree hi]>*ies4 ,all ( !m1 l our ,"l & ,8 apo/les1 are b>efoot4 ,all ( !m h _! h&s uplift$ 9 pray]4 ,= e lov] ( ,engli% h]aldic /udies ?is cope1 s pl5tifully blazon$ ) armorial be>+s1 w h an especial value1 equal to t belong+ to _m an anci5t roll ( arms4 ,to beg9 ) its orphrey3 t broad b& may1 9 reg>d to its %ields1 be di/+ui%$ into ?ree p>ts1 "o t falls imm$iately ab\t ! neck ( ! cl]ic we>+ ?is ve/m5t1 & ! o!r two portions "r & left4 ,9 ?is fir/ or middle piece ! %ields1 f\r 9 numb]1 are ( a r\nd %ape1 b1 unlike ! squ>e ones1 ?r\gh bo? ! o!r two side portions1 are n set ^u squ>es alt]nately gre5 & crimson 7fad$ to br[n7 z are ! quatrefoils on ! body ( ! cope4 ,tak+ ?is c5tre-piece fir/1 to ! left we h-- #f4 ,*ecky azure & or1 a *evron erm9e4 ,,w>wick4 #g4 ,qu>t]ly #a & #d gules1 a ?ree-t[]$ ca/le or2 #b & #c arg5t1 a lion rampant azure4 ,,ca/ile ,,& ,,leon4 #h4 ,vair or & gules1 )9 a bordure azure1 *>g$ ) sixte5 horse-%oes arg5t4 ,,f]r]s4 #i4 ,azure1 ?ree b>nacles or1 on a *ief erm9e a demi-lion rampant gules4 ,,g5eville4 ,^! f\r %ields are r\nd1 z 0 said be=e1 & ^u a gre5 gr\nd1 hav+ no?+ besides ^u x4 ,all ! re/ compos+ ?is orphrey are squ>es ( ! diamond =m1 & put ^u a gr\nd+ alt]nately crimson & gre52 on ! crimson are two peacocks & two swans 9 gold2 on ! gre51 f\r />s ( eight rays 9 gold void$ crimson4 ,n[1 beg9n+ at ! fur!rmo/ left side1 we see ^! blazons3-- #a4 ,erm9e1 a cross gules *>g$ ) five lioncels /atant g>dant or4 ,,ev]>d4 #b4 ,same z #h4 ,,f]r]s4 #c4 ,gules1 ! ,holy ,lamb arg5t ) flag or1 betwe5 two />s & a cresc5t or4 ,,badge ,,( ,,! ,,knights ,,templ>s4 #d4 ,same z #b4 ,,f]r]s4 #e4 ,same z #a4 ,,ev]>d4 #aj4 ,*ecky azure & or1 a b5d gules *>g$ ) ?ree lioncels passant arg5t4 ,,clif=d4 #aa4 ,qu>t]ly arg5t & gules2 #b & #c fretty or1 ov] all a b5d sable4 ,,sp5c]4 #ab4 ,! same z #c1 b ! ,lamb is or1 ! flag arg5t4 ,,badge ,,( ,,! ,,knights ,,templ>s4 #ac4 ,same z #aa4 ,,sp5c]4 #ad4 ,same z #aj4 ,,clif=d4 ,j bel[ ! two middle %ields are f\r nicely-=m$ loops1 ?r\gh :i* might be button$ on to ! cope ! moveable hood--or diff]5t hoods1 accord+ to ! fe/ival1 & figur$ ) ! subject ( ! fea/--n[ lo/4 ,on ! o!r edge ( ! orphrey1 to ! left1 are se5 o!r ?ree loops1 l ! =m]1 made ( ?ick gold cord1 by :i* 0 made fa/ ! morse t is also blazon$ ) t5 coats1 z foll[s3-- #a4 ,gules1 a l>ge six-po9t$ /> arg5t void$ ) ano!r /> azure void$ arg5t void$ gules1 betwe5 f\r cross-crosslets or4 #b4 ,gules1 an eagle display$ or4 ,,limesi or ,,l9dsey4 #c4 ,,ca/ile ,,& ,,leon4 #d4 ,gules1 a fess arg5t betwe5 ?ree cov]$ cups or4 ,,le ,,botil]4 #e4 ,,ca/ile ,,& ,,leon4 #f4 ,,f]r]s4 #g4 ,azure1 a cross arg5t betwe5 f\r eagles 787 display$ arg5t 7874 #h4 ,,sp5c]4 #i4 ,same z #b4 ,,l9dsey4 #aj4 ,,g5eville4 ,! gr\nd is *ecky azure & or ^u :i* ^! small %ields 9 ! morse are plac$4 ,on ! n>r[ b&1 at ! hem1 ! same alt]nation ( gre5 & crimson squ>es1 z a gr\nd = ! small diamond-%ap$ %ields1 is obs]v$1 z 9 ! orphrey2 & ! blazons are1 beg9n+ at ! left-h& side3-- #a4 ,b>ry ( t5 azure & or imbattl$1 a fess gules spr9kl$ ) f\r-petal$ fl[]s se$$ azure4 #b4 ,or1 *>g$ ) m>tlets gules1 & a pair ( b>s gemelles azure4 #c4 ,,f]r]s4 #d4 ,,ca/ile ,,& ,,leon4 #e4 ,azure1 a cross or4 ,,%eldon4 #f4 ,azure1 a lion rampant or1 )9 a bordure gules *>g$ ) eight wat]-b\gets arg5t4 #g4 ,,w>wick4 #h4 ,,sp5c]4 #i4 ,azure1 a b5d betwe5 six birds or4 ,,mont5ey ( ,essex4 #aj4 ,gules1 spr9kl$ ) cross-crosslets or1 & a saltire v]ry pot5t arg5t & azure4 ,,*amp]n\n4 #aa4 ,,g5eville4 #ab4 ,,engl&4 #ac4 ,*ecky arg5t & azure1 on a b5d gules1 ?ree g>bs 787 or escallop-%ells 787 or4 #ad4 ,or1 on a fess gules betwe5 six fleurs-de-lis ?ree & ?ree gules1 ?ree fleurs-de-lis or4 #ae4 ,gules1 a lion rampant arg5t1 )9 a bordure azure1 *>g$ ) eight wat]-b\gets or4 #af4 ,*ecky or & gules1 on a b5d azure1 five horse-%oes arg5t4 #ag4 ,same z #a4 #ah4 ,same z #b4 #ai4 ,same z #c4 ,,f]r]s4 #bj4 ,same z #aj4 ,,*amp]n\n4 #ba4 ,same z #aj 9 ! orphrey4 ,,clif=d4 #bb4 ,same z #h4 ,,sp5c]4 #bc4 ,azure1 betwe5 six escallop-%ells 787 ?ree & ?ree1 a b5d or4 ,,tyddeswall4 #bd4 ,same z #f4 #be4 ,paly ( t5 arg5t & azure1 on a b5d gules1 ?ree escallop-%ells 787 or4 ,a coat ( ,,gr&ison4 #bf4 ,gules1 a lion rampant or4 ,,fitz ,,alan4 #bg4 ,b>ry arg5t & azure1 a *ief *ecky or & gules4 #bh4 ,,g5eville4 #bi4 ,p>ty p] fess azure & or1 a cross fusil c\nt]*ang$4 #cj4 ,arg5t1 f\r birds gules1 betwe5 a saltire gules1 *>g$ ) n9e bezants4 ,,hampd5 7874 #ca4 ,azure1 five fusils 9 fesse or4 ,,p]cy4 #cb4 ,same z #a1 on ! orphrey4 ,,ev]>d4 #cc4 ,same z #f1 on ! orphrey4 ,,w>wick4 #cd4 ,gules1 ?ree lucies hauriant 9 fess betwe5 six cross-crosslets or4 ,,lucy4 #ce4 ,paly ( t5 or & azure1 on a fess gules1 ?ree mullets ( six po9ts arg5t1 void$ ) a cross azure4 ,,*amb[e 7874 #cf4 ,p>ty p] fess gules1 frett$ or1 & erm9e4 ,,ribbes=d 7874 #cg4 ,same z #i4 #ch4 ,or1 on a cross gules1 five escallop-%ells arg5t4 ,,bygod4 #ci4 ,b>ry1 a *ief paly & ! corn]s gyronny1 or & azure1 an inescut*eon erm9e4 ,,rog] ,,de ,,mortim]4 #dj4 ,same z #f4 #da4 ,p>ty p] fess1 arg5t ?ree eight-petal$ fl[]s =m$ z x 7 out ( a knot made cross-wise1 ) two fl[]s at ! end ( ea* limb1 & azure ) a /r+ ( loz5ges l a fess arg5t1 & ?ree fleurs-de-lis 787 two & "o or4 #db4 ,gules1 a fess *ecky arg5t & azure1 betwe5 twelve cross crosslets or4 ,possibly "o ( ! _m coats tak5 by ,,le ,,botil]4 #dc4 ,azure1 ?ree lucies hauriant 9 fess betwe5 six cross-crosslets or4 ,,lucy4 #dd4 ,erm9e1 on a *evron gules1 ?ree escallop-%ells or4 ,,golbore or ,,grove4 #de4 ,gyronny ( twelve or & azure4 ,,de ,,bass+burn4 ,besides _! h]aldry1 squ>es ^u :i* are %[n swans & peacocks wr\ght at ea* corn]1 af=d1 9 ^? birds1 objects ( mu* curi\s int]e/ = e lov] ( m$ival symbolism "u its v>i\s phases4 ,9 ! symbolism ( ^? times1 ! /> & ! cresc5t1 ! peacock & ! swan1 _h1 ea* ( !m1 its own sev]al figurative mean+s4 ,by ! fir/ ( ^! emblems 0 to be und]/ood1 accord+ to ! words1 9 ,numb]s xxiv4 #ag1 ( ,balaam's prophecy1--8a /> %all arise out ( ,jacob10--our ,savi\r1 :o says ( ,8 div9e self1 ,apocalypse xxii4 #af1 8,i am ! bright & morn+ />40 ,by inf]5ce1 ! /> n only symboliz$ our ,"l ,himself1 b ,8 ,gospel--,*ri/ianity--9 contradi/9ction to ,mahometanism1 aga9/ :i* ! crusades _h be5 b lately c>ri$ on4 ,! /> ( ,be?lehem1 too1 0 ?us also br\ght be=e ! m9d ) all its associat$ ideas ( ! ,holy ,l&4 ,! cresc5t moon1 on ! %ields ) ! ,holy ,lamb1 repres5ts ! ,*ur*1 = ! reason t small at fir/1 b gett+ h] light f ! true ,sun ( ju/ice1 our ,"l1 %e e day gr[s l>g]1 & at ! end ( "t1 :5 all %all believe 9 h]1 w at la/ be 9 h] full brightness4 ,?is symbolism is set =?1 at "s l5g?1 by ,petrus ,capuanus z quot$ by ,dom 7n[ ,c>d9al7 ,pitra 9 8 valuable 8,spicilegium ,solesm5se10 t4 ii4 #ff4 ,b = an ,engli% m$ival au?ority on ! po9t1 we may cite our own ,alex&] ,neckam1 born ,a4,d4 #aaeg at ,/4 ,albans1 & :o _h z a fo/]-bro!r ,k+ ,ri*>d ( ! ,lion-,he>t4 ,9 8 curi\s "w1 8,de ,naturis ,r]um10 n long s9ce pr9t$ = ! fir/ "t1 & publi%$ by ! au?ority ( ,h] ,maje/y's treasury1 "u ! direction ( ! ,ma/] ( ! ,rolls1 ,neckam ?us writes3--8,p] solem item ,*ri/us1 v]us sol ju/ici pl]umque intelligitur2 p] lunam autem ecclesia1 vel qucunque fidelis anima4 ,sicut autem luna b5eficium lucis a sole m5dicat1 ita et fidelis anima a ,*ri/o qui e/ lux v]a40 ,p4 #ec4 ,n always 0 ! peacock tak5 to be ! unmitigat$ emblem ( pride & fooli% vanity4 ,osmont ! cl]ic1 9 8 8,volucraire1 or ,book ( ,birds10 aft] notic+ its scream in/ead ( song1 its s]p5t-l %ape ( head t x c>ries s haughtily1 b l[]s q aba%$ z x cat*es a glimpse at its ugly feet1 & its g>i% plumage ) ! _m bright-ey$ freckles on its fan-l tail :i* x loves to unfold = admiration1 draws ^! comp>isons4 ,z ! peacock affrights u by its cry1 s does ! prea*]1 :5 he ?und]s aga9/ s9 />tle u into a hatr$ ( x2 if ! /ep ( ! bird be s full ( maje/y1 ) :at /ead9ess ought a true ,*ri/ian fe>lessly tread 8 n>r[ pa?4 ,a man may p]haps f9d a happ9ess1 nay1 %[ a pride 9 ! conviction ( hav+ done a good de$1 p]haps may sometimes !re=e c>ry 8 head a trifle high1 &1 /rutt+ l ! peacock1 p>ade 8 pi\s works to cat* ! _w's applause2 z soon z he looks into ,holy ,writ & !re le>ns ! weakness1 l[l9ess1 ( 8 own orig91 he too droops 8 head 9 all humility4 ,^? eye-speckl$ fea!rs 9 its plumage w>n him t nev] too (t5 c he h 8 eyes wide op51 & gaze inw>dly ^u 8 own he>t & "k its secret work+s4 ,?us spoke an ,anglo-,norman writ]4 ,ab\t ! swan an ,engli%man1 our ,alex&] ,neckam1 says3--8,quid quod cygnus 9 tate t5ella fusco colore ve/itus esse videtur1 qui po/modum 9 int5tissimum c&orem mutatur8 ,sic nonnulli calig9e peccatorum prius obfuscati1 po/ea c&oris innoc5ti ve/e spirituali decorantur40--,de ,naturis ,r]um1 p4 #aja4 ,"h our c\ntryman h&s u ! key to ! symbolic appe>ance ( ! swan ^u ?is liturgical g>m5t2 =1 z :ile a cygnet1 its fea!rs are always ( a dusky hue1 b :5 ! bird has gr[n up its plumage *anges into ! mo/ int5sely :ite1 j s1 "s p :o are at fir/ d>k5$ ) ! blackness ( s91 9 aft] days become adorn$ ) ! g>b ( :ite innoc5ce4 ,besides _! ecclesia/ical mean+s ^! same symbols _h belong+ to !m a secul> significance4 ,f\nd ^u a piece ( /uff q ap>t f t ( ! cope itself1 & work$ = ! adornm5t ( t f9e ve/m5t aft] a lapse ( _m ye>s1 made up too ( an ornam5tation ! :ole ( :i* is h]aldic & ?us br++ to m9d worldly knights & _! blazons & its age's *ivalry1 x is easy to f9d out = x an adaptation to ! *ivalric notions & cu/oms ( ^? times4 ,! ,be?lehem /> ov]topp+ ! ,islam badge ( ! cresc5t moon %[$ =? ! wi%es ( e "o :o _h be5 or meant to be a crusad]1 or r m1 n m]ely ( our m5 at arms b ( e true believ] ?r\gh\t ,*ri/5dom ^: untir+ pray]s 7 t ! ,holy ,l& might be wre/$ f ! iron h& ( ! ,mahometan4 ,at great national fe/ivities & solemn ga!r+s ( ! ari/ocracy1 n ! "y knight alone !n newly girt1 b ! grey-hair$ w>rior w\ld (t51 9 t noble pres5ce1 b9d himself by v[ to d "s de$ ( d>+1 & swore x to heav51 & ! swan1 ! pheasant1 or ! peacock z ! bird ( 8 *oice1 0 br\ght ) a fl\ri% ( trumpets1 & amid a cr[d ( /ately knights wait+ on a bevy ( fair "y ladies1 & set be=e him4 ,?is s\nds odd at ?is "t ( day2 n s did x 9 m$ival times1 :5 ^? birds 7 look$ ^u ) fav\r on acc\nt ( ! maje/ic gracefulness ( _! %ape1 or ! sp>kl+ beauty ( _! plumage4 ,x mu/ n be =gott5 t ?is orphrey 0 blazon$ by ,engli% h&s 9 ,engl&1 & :ile all ! /irr+ do+s ( our fir/ ,edw>d 7 yet fre% 9 our p's remembrance4 ,t k+ _h be5 & f\ght 9 ! ,holy ,l& aga9/ ! ,s>ac5s4 ,at 8 bidd+1 t[>ds ! end ( life1 a sc5e rem>kable ev5 9 t p]iod ( royal fe/ive magnific5ce1 took place1 :5 he himself1 9 ! ye> #acjf1 gird$ 8 son1 aft]w>ds ,edw>d ,,ii1 ) ! milit>y belt 9 ! palace ( ,we/m9/]1 & !n s5t him to be/[ ! same knightly hon\r1 9 ! *ur* ( t abbey1 ^u ! ?ree hundr$ "y sons ( ! nobility1 :o _h be5 ga!r$ f all p>ts ( ! k+dom to be 8 companions 9 ! spl5d\rs ( ! day4 ,b t gr& function 0 br\ght to an end by a mo/ curi\s yet int]e/+ act2 to ! joy\s s\nds ( m9/relsy came =w>ds a procession1 be>+ along a pair ( swans conf9$ 9 a net1 ! me%es ( :i* 7 made ( cords fa%ion$ l re$s & wr\ght ( gold4 ,^! birds 7 set 9 solemn pomp be=e ! k+2 & !re & !n ,edw>d swore by ! ,god 9 heav5 & ! swans t he w\ld g =? & wage w> aga9/ ! ,scots3 ,mat!w ,we/m9/]1 p4 #ded4 ,no wond]1 !n1 t along ) ! /> & cresc5t we f9d ! knightly swan & peacock m+l$ 9 ! h]aldry ( ! highe/ families 9 ,engl&1 wr\ght ^u a "w f ,engli% h&s1 dur+ ! f\rte5? c5tury4 ,a long hundr$ ye>s aft] ?is elaborate orphrey 0 work$ we f9d t ,dan ,john ,lydgate1 monk ( ,bury ,/4 ,edmund's1 9 8 poem call$ 8,all /ant 9 *aunge l a mydsom] ,rose10 ^u ! fickl5ess ( all e>?ly ?+s1 :ile s++ ( ?is life's fad+ vanities1 c\nts among !m-- 8,v[is ( pecok1 ) all !r pr\de *]e40 ,,m9or ,,poems1 ed4 ,halliwell = ,p]cy ,society1 p4 #be4 ,to ! wild b poetic leg5d ( ! swan & 8 desc5dants1 we h already allud$ 9 our ,introduction4 ,a ^w or two n[ ^u ! ne$lework1 h[ x 0 done1 & a c]ta9 at pres5t unus$ me*anical appliance to x aft] x 0 wr\ght1 s obs]vable ^u ?is ve/m5t1 l5d+ its figures m effect1 & giv+ x1 z a tea*+ example ( embroid]y1 mu* m value ?an any =eign piece 9 ?is num]\s collection4 ,look+ well into ?is f9e specim5 ( ! ,engli% ne$le1 we f9d t1 = ! human face1 all ov] x1 ! fir/ /it*es 7 begun 9 ! c5tre ( ! *eek1 & work$ 9 circul>1 n /raight l9es1 into :i*1 h[ev]1 aft] ! middle _h be5 made1 !y fell1 & 7 s c>ri$ on ?r\gh ! re/ ( ! fle%es4 ,aft] ! :ole figure _h ?us be5 wr\ght2 !n ) a little ?9 iron rod end+ 9 a small bulb or smoo? knob slightly heat$1 7 press$ d[n ^? spots ^u ! faces work$ 9 circul> l9es1 z well z t deep wide dimple 9 ! ?roat especially ( an ag$ p]son4 ,by ! holl[s ?us la/+ly sunk1 a play ( light & %ad[ is br\ght out t1 at a %ort di/ance1 l5ds to ! portion s treat$ a look ( be+ done 9 l[ relief4 ,^u ! slightly-clo!d p]son ( our ,"l ?is same process is foll[$ 9 a way t tells rem>kably well2 & ! *e/ ) ! upp] "p ( ! pelvis 9 ! figure ( our ,savi\r ov]com+ ,?omas's unbelief1 %[s a notewor?y example ( ! m$ival k ( ext]nal anatomy4 ,we mu/ n1 h[ev]1 hide f ourselves ! fact t ! edges1 ?\gh s broad & blunt1 giv5 by su* a use ( ! hot iron to p>ts ( an embroid]y1 expose x some:at to ! dang] ( be+ worn out m 9 ^? ?an o!r portions :i* soon betray ! damage by _! ?read-b>e d+y look1 z is ! case 9 ! example j cit$4 ,! me?od = fill+ 9 ! quatrefoils1 z well z work+ mu* ( ! drap]y on ! figures1 is rem>kable = be+ done 9 a long zigzag diap]-patt]n1 & aft] ! mann] call$ 9 anci5t inv5tories1 8opus plum>ium10 f ! way ! /it*es ov]lie ea* o!r l ! fea!rs on a bird4 ,! /it*]y on ! armorial be>+s is ! same z t n[ foll[$ 9 s _m trifl+ ?+s work$ 9 wool4 ,! canvas = e "p ( ?is cope is ( ! v f9e/ sort2 b oddly en\gh1 its crimson canvas l9+ is ?ick & co>se4 ,:at con/itut$1 !n1 ! *>act]i/ics ( ! 8opus ,anglicum10 or ,engli% "w1 9 m$ival embroid]y 71 fir/1 ! beg9n+ ( ! /it*]y 9 c]ta9 p>ts ( ! human figure--! face especially--9 circul> l9es w9d+ close toge!r r\nd & r\nd2 &1 9 ! second place1 ! s9k+ ( ^? same portions into p]man5t holl[s by ! use ( a hot iron4 ,a ^w or two n[ ab\t ! hi/ory ( ?is f9e cope4 ,9 old5 days n a t[n1 h>dly a s+le p>i%1 ?r\gh\t ,engl&1 b _h 9 x "o or m pi\s associations call$ 8gilds10 "s ( :i* c\ld %[ ! noble/ among/ ! layfolks1 m5 & wom51 & ! mo/ di/+ui%$ ( ! cl]gy 9 ! k+dom1 set d[n ^u ! roll ( its bro!rhood1 :i* (t5 grew up into great weal?4 ,ea* ( ^! gilds _h1 usually 9 its p>i% *ur*1 a *apel1 or at lea/ an alt> ( its own1 :]e1 = its peculi> s]vice1 x kept "o if n sev]al prie/s & cl]ics1 provid$1 too1 ) e ne$ful liturgical appliance1 articles ( :i* 7 frequ5tly ! spontane\s (f]+ ( individual bro!rs1 :o sometimes clubb$ toge!r = ! purpose ( ?us mak+ _! jo9t gift m spl5did4 ,n[ x is mo/ rem>kable t ^u ?is cope1 & q ap>t f ! sacr$ /ory on x1 we h two figures1 t to ! left1 prank$ out 9 ! gay attire ( "s ri* layman2 on ! "r1 ! o!r1 :o mu/ be an ecclesia/ic f ! tonsure on 8 head2 ea* be>s an inscrib$ scroll 9 8 h&1 & bo? are 9 ! po/ure ( suppliants mak+ (f]+s4 ,?is cl]ic & ?is layman may h be5 ak9 to "o ano!r1 bro!rs1 too1 ( ! same gild = :i* !y at _! jo9t co/ got ?is cope work$ & gave to x4 ,b :]e 0 ?is gild itself8 ,among ! =emo/ ( our prov9cial cities once 0 reckon$ ,cov5try4 ,its ,corpus ,*ri/i plays or my/]ies1 illu/rat$ by ?is embroid]y1 enjoy$ su* a wide-spread fame t = ! :ole eight days ( _! p]=mance1 e ye>1 !y drew cr[ds ( ! highe/ & ! g5tle/ ( ! l& f> & ne>1 z ! 8,pa/on ,lett]s0 te/ify1 to see !m2 its gild 0 ( su* repute t our nobility--lords & ladies--our k+s & que5s1 did n ?9k x anywise b5ea? _! high e/ate to be enroll$ among its bro!rhood4 ,besides _m o!r au?orities1 we h "o 9 t spl5did piece ( ,engli% tape/ry--figur$ ) ,h5ry ,,vi1 ,c>d9al ,beau=t1 ,humphrey1 ,duke ( ,gl\ce/]1 & o!r c\rti]s1 on ! left or m5's side1 & on ! wom5's1 ,que5 ,m>g>et1 ! ,du*ess ( ,buck+ham1 & o!r ladies1 mo/ ( !m on _! knees1 & all he>+ mass--/ill hang+ on ! wall ( ! d9+ hall ( ,/4 ,m>y's gild1 ( :i* t k+1 ) 8 que5 & all 8 c\rt became memb]s2 & at ^: alt>1 z bre?r51 !y he>d _! s]vice1 on "s ,sunday1 or high fe/ival1 :i* !y sp5t at ,cov5try4 ,tak+ ?is old city z a c5tre1 ) a radius ( no great l5g?1 we may draw a circle on ! map :i* w enclose ,tamwor?1 t[] & t[n1 ,*>tly ,ca/le1 ,w>wick1 ,*>lcote1 ,al?orp1 c4 :]e ! once great h\ses ( ,f]r]s1 ,beau*amp1 ,lucy1 & ,sp5c] held1 & "s ( !m yet hold1 l>ge e/ates2 & f be+ ! own]s ( broad l&s 9 its neighb\rhood1 _! lords w\ld1 9 accordance ) ! religi\s feel+ ( ^? times1 become bro!rs ( ! fam\s gild ( ,cov5try2 & on acc\nt ( _! high rank1 f9d _! arms emblazon$ ^u ! ve/m5ts belong+ to _! frat]nity4 ,t su* a pi\s que5 z ! g5tle ,eleanor1 our ,fir/ ,edw>d's fir/ wife1 :o di$ ,a4,d4 #abij1 %\ld h1 9 h] lifetime1 become a si/]1 & by h] b\nties made h]self to be gratefully rememb]$ aft] dea?1 is v likely1 s t we may ) ease acc\nt = h] %ield--,ca/ile & ,leon--z well z = ! %ields ( ! o!r great families we see ^u ! orphrey1 be+ wr\ght !re z a te/imonial t1 :ile1 l _m o!rs1 !y 7 memb]s1 !y also _h be5 munific5t b5efactors to ! association4 ,a remembrance ( bro!rhood = ^? o!rs equally noble1 b less g5]\s 9 _! b5efactions1 may be read 9 ^? small] %ields ^u ! n>r[ hem go+ along ! l[] bord] ( ?is ve/m5t4 ,! :ole ( x mu/ h tak5 a long1 long "t 9 ! do+2 & ! probability is t x 0 work$ by ! nuns ( "s conv5t :i* /ood 9 or ne> ,cov5try4 ,^u ! banks ( ! ,?ames1 at ,islewor?1 ne> ,london1 9 ! ye> #adad1 ,h5ry ,v4 built1 & munific5tly end[$1 a mona/]y to be call$ 8,syon10 = nuns ( ,/4 ,bridget's ord]4 ,among ! e>lie/ fri5ds ( ?is new h\se 0 a ,ma/] ,?omas ,graunt1 an (ficial 9 "o ( ! ecclesia/ical c\rts ( ! k+dom4 ,9 ! ,syon nuns' m>tyrologium--a valuable ,,ms4 lately b\ght by ! ,briti% ,museum--?is *ur*man is gratefully record$ z ! giv] to _! conv5t ( sev]al preci\s ornam5ts1 ( :i* ?is v cope seem+ly is "o4 ,x 0 ! cu/om = a gild1 or religi\s body1 to be/[ "s ri* *ur* ve/m5t ^u an ecclesia/ical advocate :o _h befri5d$ x by 8 plead+s be=e ! tribunals1 & ?us to convey _! ?anks to him along ) 8 fee4 ,aft] su* a fa%ion ?is cope c\ld h easily f\nd its way1 ?r\gh ,dr4 ,graunt1 f ,w>wick%ire to ,middlesex4 ,at ! beg9n+ ( ,elizabe?'s reign x w5t along ) ! nuns z !y w&]$ 9 an unbrok5 body ?r\gh ,fl&]s1 ,france1 & ,portugal1 :]e !y halt$4 ,ab\t sixty ye>s ago x came back aga9 f ,lisbon to ,engl&1 & has f\nd a la/+ home 9 ! ,s\? ,k5s+ton ,museum4 #aig4 ,web = ,orphreys2 gr\nd1 crimson silk2 design1 ! ,assumption1 9 yell[ silk & gold ?read4 ,flor5t9e1 #ae? c5tury4 #b feet #b in*es by #a foot #b in*es4 ,! same sort ( /uff frequ5tly occurs 9 ?is collection1 & ! pres5t specim51 :i* consi/s ( two bread?s sew$ toge!r1 is ! same z ! "o fully describ$ 9 ,no4 #djei4 ,9 its pres5t %ape x may h s]v$ z a back hang+ to a little pray+-desk 9 a b$-room4 #aih4 ,a ,crimson ,velvet ,/ole1 ) crosses & fr+es ( gre5 silk4 ,spani%1 #af? c5tury4 #f feet #h in*es by #b in*es1 & #e in*es4 ,! pieces ( crimson velvet out ( :i* ?is /ole 0 made1 n s _m ye>s ago1 are ( a deep w>m tone ( col\r1 & s(t ri* pile2 bo? s peculi> to ! looms ( ,spa94 ,! velvet mu/ h be5 9 use = *ur* purposes be=e ?is /ole 0 made out ( x4 #abjg4 ,a ,crimson ,velvet ,/ole1 ) crosses ( poor gold lace1 & fr+es ( crimson silk4 ,spani%1 #af? c5tury4 #g feet #g in*es by #c in*es1 & #h in*es4 ,l ! =ego+ /ole 9 quality ( velvet4 #bed-ee4 ,two ,crimson ,velvet ,maniples1 ) crosses & fr+es ( gre54 ,spani%1 #af? c5tury4 #a foot #f in*es by #c in*es1 & #e in*es4 ,^! 7 to mat* ! l k9d ( /ole4 #ebd4 ,a ,crimson ,velvet ,maniple1 ) crosses ( gold & fr+es ( crimson silk4 ,spani%1 #af? c5tury4 #a foot #e in*es by #c in*es1 & #f in*es4 #gcc4 ,a ,piece ( ,rais$ ,velvet2 gr\nd1 yell[ silk2 design1 9 velvet pile1 pomegranates1 & conv5tional floriations1 enclos+ an oval ) a quatrefoil 9 ! middle4 ,spani%1 late #af? c5tury4 #a foot #f in*es by #g in*es1 & by #a foot #b in*es4 ,?is rais$ velvet mu/ h be5 = h\sehold decoration1 & may h be5 wr\ght at ,alm]ia4 #ijb4 ,cut-,"w = furniture purposes2 gr\nd1 yell[ silk2 design1 vases ( fl[]s =m$ 9 gre5 velvet2 ! fl[]s 9 places embroid]$ 9 :ite & light blue floss-silk4 ,fr5*1 #ag? c5tury4 #i feet #i in*es by #a foot #i in*es4 ,?is specim5 well %[s ! way 9 :i* su* /rips = pila/]s 7 wr\ght4 ,at fir/ ! gre5 velvet seems ! gr\nd1 :i*1 h[ev]1 is ( amb] yell[ silk1 b ! velvet is s cut out & sew$ on z to give ! vases & _! fl[]s ! "r =m1 & sometimes is made to come 9 z foliage4 ,! fl[]s1 mo/ly fleurs-de-lis & tulips1 are well f9i%$ 9 :ite silk1 %ad$ ei!r by light blue 9 ! fir/1 or p9k 9 ! second in/ance1 :]e1 h[ev]1 !re are only five in/ead ( six petals2 & ! :ole is edg$ 9 its design ) yell[ silk cord4 #iaj4 ,an ,alt> ,frontal1 silk & ?read2 gr\nd1 yell[2 design1 vases & conv5tional arti*okes1 amid floriations1 all 9 crimson silk1 & trimm$ at ! l[] side ) cut-"w1 9 a fl[] patt]n1 ( v>i\s-col\r$ silks1 edg$ ) yell[ cord4 ,italian1 e>ly #ag? c5tury4 #f feet by #b feet #h in*es4 ,! silk 9 ?is /uff is small 9 comp>ison ) ! ?read1 :i*1 h[ev]1 is s well cov]$ z to be kept q out ( sight 9 ! patt]n4 ,! fr+e1 six in*es 9 dep?1 is left q op54 #iaa4 ,a ,b$-,quilt2 gr\nd1 gre5 silk2 design1 9 ! middle ! goddess ,flora1 ar\nd h] l>ge fl[]s & bran*es1 amid :i* are birds 7doves871 & h>es climb+ up ! b\ghs1 all 9 floss-silk ( v %[y col\rs1 ) a deep bord] ( fl[]s1 work$ ^u d>k net4 ,italian1 #ah? c5tury4 #h feet #c in*es by #f feet4 ,su* cov]lets 71 z !y /ill are1 us$ = ?r[+ ov] b$s 9 ! day-"t4 ,! fl[]s1 bo? on ! silk & ! nett+1 are s embroid]$ z to %[ ! same1 l ,ea/ ,indian ne$lework1 on bo? sides4 ,! love = lively col\r1 n to say g>i%ness1 0 su* z to lead ! h& t wr\ght ?is piece to r5d] ! bran*es ( "s ( ! p>ts p>ti-col\r$ 9 :ite & crimson4 ,o!r specim5s ( embroid]$ net may be se5 at ,nos4 #fbc1 #fbd1 #ddfb4 ,illu/ration ,,"p ,,! ,,second4 ,tape/ry4 #abif4 ,pieces ( ,tape/ry ,hang+1 figur$ ) poetic pa/oral sc5es4 ,flemi%1 p]haps wr\ght at ,aud5a]de1 9 ! fir/ half ( ! #af? c5tury4 #bi feet #d in*es by #aa feet4 ,soon aft] ! e>ly "p ( ! #af? c5tury1 !re sprang up ?r\gh\t ,europe a lik+ = pa/oral lit]ature z se5 9 ,virgil's eclogues3 poets sung _! dreams ( ! bliss to be f\nd 9 ru/ic life1 9 :i* sports & pa/imes1 amid well-dress$ revelry & music1 ) n\ght ( toil or drudg]y belong+ to x1 =m$ ! ye>ly r\nd2 & 9 summ] tide1 nobles & _! ladies lov$ to rove ! woods & fields1 & play at g5tle %eph]dism4 ,h[ su* frolics 7 c>ri$ out we le>n f ! tape/ry be=e u1 :i*1 9 _m ( its features1 is ne> ak9 to ^? l[ reliefs ( ! same subject t adorn ! walls 9 ! c\rt-y>d ( ! curi\s & elaborately ornam5t$ ,hotel de ,b\rg!r\d1 at ,r\54 ,at ! left-h& side1 ly+ on a fl[]y bank1 is a g5tleman %eph]d1 ^: broad-to$ %oes & ?ick clo? legg+s1 fa/5$ r\nd ! knees & ab\t ! ancles1 are r conspicu\s4 ,on ! brim ( 8 l>ge r\nd :ite hat is a sort ( squ>e ticket1 col\r$4 ,f 8 wai/ hangs a :ite sat*el1 be>+ outside v>i\s appliances1 su* z c\ntrym5 want4 ,ov] him /&s1 ) a tall spud 9 h] h&s1 a y\?ful lady dress$ 9 a sc>let robe1 & we>+ h] sat*el by h] side1 a ?9 gauze cap1 n a hat1 is on h] head1 & ) h] h& uprais$ %e seems to be giv+ emphasis to :at %e says to h] fri5d ^u ! gr\nd4 ,9 ! middle ( ?is piece is a gr\p1 consi/+ ( f\r *>act]s1 all ( :om are play+ at "s game ( =feits4 ,a "y lady clad 9 blue sat91 ) ! usual ru/ic p\* slung at h] side1 is sitt+ on ! fl[]y grass1 ) h] h&s on ! %\ld]s ( a y\? at h] feet1 & hid+ 8 face 9 h] lap4 ,/&+ ov] him & ab\t to /rike 8 op5 palm is ano!r y\? 9 a blue tunic turn$ up ) r$1 & hold+ a spud4 ,beh9d ! bl9dfold$ y\? /&s a "y lady1 ^: flax5 locks fall f "u a broad-brimm$ crimson hat1 ^u h] %\ld]s ov] h] spl5did robe1 ! crimson gr\nd ( :i* is ne>ly hidd5 by ! broad diap]+ ( gold mo/ admirably %[n ^u x4 ,9 ! o!r corn]1 to ! "r1 is a lady1 k]*ief$ & gird$ ) h] ru/ic wallet1 ) bo? h&s grasp+ a man1 :o seems z if he ask$ =giv5ess4 ,ov]head is a sw9eh]d lead+ a pig1 & go+ t[>ds a f>m-lab\r] :o is mak+ faggots2 fur!r on is ano!r cl[n1 h>d at "w1 ) 8 coat ?r[n d[n by him on ! gr\nd1 lopp+ trees2 & la/ ( all1 a g5tleman & lady1 bo? clad 9 ! co/ume ( ! fir/ half ( ! sixte5? c5tury4 ,^! gr\ps on ! high "p ( ! canvas are evid5tly outside ! subject ( ! games bel[1 & are m]ely pass]s by4 ,all ab\t ! field are se5 graz+ %eep2 & to ! "r1 a gold5 pheasant on ! =egr\nd is s conspicu\s z to lead to ! ?\ght t x 0 plac$ !re to tell1 ei!r ! "n ( ! noble h\se = :i* ?is beautifully-wr\ght & nicely-design$ tape/ry 0 made1 or ( ! arti/ :o work$ x4 ,9 a second1 b mu* small] pane ( tape/ry1 ! same subject is cont9u$4 ,^u ! fl[]y banks ( a n>r[ /reamlet sit a lady & a little boy1 ba?+ _! feet 9 its wat]s4 ,a g5tleman--a swa9 = ! nonce--on 8 b5d$ knee1 holds up triumphantly "o ( ! lady's /ock+s ov] ! boy's head4 ,j above & /rid+ t[>ds h] comes ano!r g5tleman-%eph]d1 ) bo? 8 h&s out/ret*$ z if 9 wond]m5t1 ov] :om we f9d a real *url 9 ! p]son ( a %eph]d play+ a set ( d\ble pipes--! old ,fr5* 8flahut] deux dois0--to ! no small delight ( a little dog by 8 side4 ,s]v+ z a backgr\nd to ?is gr\p1 we h a com=table home/ead amid trees4 ,some:at to ! "r & l[] d[n1 ov] a brick ar* leans a lady1 to :om a gaily-dress$ man is (f]+ money or a tr9ket1 :i* he has j drawn =? f 8 op5 gipcire hang+ at 8 girdle4 ,bel[ sits a lady array$ 9 a :ite robe1 ! skirts ( :i* %e has drawn & fold$ back ^u h] lap to %[ h] sc>let petticoat4 ,%e is li/5+ to a huntsman prank$ out ) a belt /rung ) little bells2 fall+ f 8 girdle hangs 9 front a buglehorn1 & 8 left h& holds ! lea% ( 8 dog ) a f9e coll> on4 ,ov] ?is spruce y\? is an unmi/akable real field lab\r] ) a ,flemi% hotte81 or wood5 cradle1 fill$ ) *umps & /icks1 ^u 8 back2 & be=e him walk two dogs1 "o ( :i* c>ries a pack or clo? ov] 8 %\ld]s4 ,/ill high] up is a w9d-mill1 t[>d :i* a man be>+ a sack is walk+4 ,9 bo? ^! pieces1 :i* are fell[s1 & wr\ght = ! hang+s ( ! same *amb]1 ! draw+ ( ! figures1 ) ! accessories ( dress1 silks1 & ev5 field-fl[]s1 is admirable1 & ! gr\p+ well manag$3 altoge!r1 !y are valuable l9ks 9 ! *a9 = ! /udy & illu/ration ( ! anci5t art ( tape/ry4 #abig4 ,piece ( ,tape/ry ,hang+2 gr\nd1 gre5 spr9kl$ ) fl[]s1 & s5t5ce-be>+ scrolls2 design1 /eps 9 a religi\s life1 figur$ 9 five comp>tm5ts4 ,we/ ,g]man1 late #ae? c5tury4 #ab feet by #b feet #aj in*es4 #a4 ,a "y well-born maid51 ) a n>r[ wrea? ab\t h] unveil$ head1 & dress$ 9 p9k1 is say+ h] pray]s kneel+ on ! fl[]y gre5 gr\nd1 ) ^! words trac$ on ! scrolls tw9$ gracefully above h]1--8,das wir ,m>ia k9dt 9 trew mage w]d5 s 444 t i* myn gnade 444 n af erd520 8,let u become l to ,m>y's *ild1 7s7 we %all des]ve m]cy on e>?40 #b4 ,seat$ on a *air1 ) a book ^u 8 lap1 is an ecclesia/ic1 9 a :ite habit & black scapul>4 ,to ?is prie/ ! same "y lady is mak+ confession ( h] s9s2 & ! scrolls ab\t ?is gr\p say1--8,vi*t di sunde mit ern/ sond] spot s f9de/ic ,godez trew gnadt20 8,fight aga9/ s9 ) e>ne/ness & )\t feign+2 y w f9d ! true m]cy ( ,god40--8,h] myn sunde vil i* a* dag5 uff das mir ,gots trew moge behag520 8,"l1 ,i w m\rn ov] my s91 9 ord] t ! tru? ( ,god may com=t me40 #c4 ,! same y\?ful maid5 is b5d+ ov] a wood5 table1 ^u :i* lies a human he>t t %e is h&l+2 & ! inscriptions ab\t h] tell u ! mean+ ( ?is action ( h]s1 ?us1--8,sol i* myn sund hi les*5 s musz i* i* m h]tz im blude wes*e20 8,to cleanse away my s9 "h1 ,i mu/ wa% my he>t 9 ! blood40 #d4 ,we "h see an alt>2 ^u its table are a small rood or crucifix ) ,s4 ,m>y & ,s4 ,john1 two c&le/icks1 hav+ prickets = ! wax-lights1 ! outspread corporal clo?1 ^u :i* /&s ! *alice1 & "u :i*1 9 front & n at ! "r side1 lies ! pat5 some:at hidd54 ,at ! foot ( ?is alt> kneels ! maid51 clad 9 blue1 & we>+ on h] head a pla91 closely-fitt+ l95 cap1 l t yet occasionally worn at *ur* 9 ,belgium1 by females ( ! middle classes1--& ! prie/ :o is say+ mass !re is giv+ h] ,communion4 ,! prie/'s alb is ornam5t$ ) crimson app>els on its cuffs & l[] front hem1 inscrib$ ) ! ^w 8haus10 h\se1 is well r5d]$4 ,! inscriptions above are1 z else:]e1 mutilat$1 s t mu* ( _! mean+ is lo/2 b !y run ?us1--8,w] he 444 v]sorget mi* mit ,gottes trew das bitt5 i*20 8,if 444 n procure me ! love ( ,god t ,i pray =40--8,emphang 9 trew5 d5 w>5 ,cri/ dmit dyn20 8,receive ) fidelity ! v ,*ri/ 9 ord]44440 #e4 ,a nunn]y1 j outside ( :i* /&s its lady-abbess1 clo!d 9 a :ite habit1 black hood1 & :ite l95 wimple ab\t h] ?roat4 ,9 h] "r h& %e be>s a gold crozi]1 f :i* hangs t peculi> napk91 two ( :i* are 9 ?is collection1 ,nos4 #hbgi;,a1 & #hffb4 ,beh9d /&s an ag$ nun1 &1 z if 9 ! passage & se5 ?r\gh ! cloi/] w9d[s1 are two lay si/]s1 kn[n z su* by ! black scapul>4 ,9 front ( ! abbess /&s ! "y maid5 dress$ 9 p9k1 ) h] wait+ woman all 9 :ite1 9 att5dance on h]4 ,^u ! scrolls are ^! s5t5ces1--8,dez hymels ey port ,godez vor 7m7eyn husz disz i/20 8,a gate ( heav5--,god's & m9e h\se ?is is40--8,kom trew ,*ri/ wol4 p44 eidt nym dy ,kron dy dir ,got hat b]eit40--8,come1 true ,*ri/ian well 444 take ! cr[n :i* ,god has prep>$ = !e40 ,?\gh b a poor specim5 ( ! loom1 ?is piece gives u scraps ( an obsolete dialect ( ! m$ival ,g]man1 n ,flemi%1 language4 #adfe4 ,piece ( ,tape/ry ,hang+2 gr\nd1 grass & fl[]s2 design1 a ,g]man romance1 divid$ into six comp>tm5ts1 ea* hav+ its own inscrib$ scrolls1 meant to describe ! subject4 ,s\? ,g]man1 middle ( ! #ae? c5tury4 #ab feet by #b feet #f in*es4 ,9 ! fir/ comp>tm5t we see a gr\p ( horsem51 ( :om ! fir/ is a royal y\? we>+ a ri*ly-jewell$ cr[n & array$ 9 all ! fa%ion ( ^? days4 ,foll[+ him are two grooms1 ov] "o ( ^: heads1 b high up 9 ! heav5s1 flies an eagle2 & p]haps ! bird may be !re to indicate ! "n ( ! l>ge wall$ city close by4 ,pac+ on ! fl[]y turf1 ! cavalcade is ne>+ a ca/le1 at ! ?re%old ( :i* /& an ag$ k+ & 8 y\?ful daught]4 ,on a scroll are ! words1--8,bisg god wilkum dusig /unt787 gross] frayd w>t uns nie kunt20 8,be "r welcome = a ?\s& h\rs2 a great] joy we nev] knew40 ,( c\rse ! com+ gue/ utt]s 8 ackn[l$gm5ts2 b ! words on ! scroll _c be made out ) ! exception ( ?is brok5 s5t5ce1--8,heute i* unt 44420 8,to day ,i & 4440 ,9 ! second comp>tm5t1 9 a room ( ! ca/le we behold ! same royal y\?1 we>+1 z be=e1 8 cr[n ^u 8 long yell[ locks1 along ) 8 ?ree v>lets4 ,on a scroll are ! words1--8,from] dieur be/elle mir die ros e9 wagge i/ nun lieb]20 8,pi\s s]vant1 ord] me ! horses1 a c>riage is pref]r$40 ,9 ! ?ird comp>tm5t is %[n1 & v likely 9 8 own home1 ! same "y woo] talk+1 z x w\ld seem by ! scrolls1 to 8 ?ree wait+-m52 & aft] "o ( !m _h said1--8,wage un rosz s9t b]eit als 44420 8,c>riage & horses are ready z44440 he says1--8,wo s*i5 gluck zu dis] v>t nie ke9 reise20 8,if luck has %one on ?is j\rney1 ,i nev] lik$ travell+ bett]40 ,( ! ?ree s]vants1 "o holds ?ree horses1 :ile ! upp] groom is pres5t+1 ) bo? h&s1 to 8 royal "y ma/] a l>ge some?+1 app>5tly ornam5t$ ) fl[]s2 ! *url we>s1 hang+ d[n f 8 girdle 9 front1 an anelace or dagg]1 ! g5tleman a gay gipcire1 b ! %oes ( bo? are v long & po9t$4 ,9 ! f\r? comp>tm5t ! same cr[n$ y\? aga9 is se5 rid+ t[>ds ! ca/le-gate1 ?\gh ?is "t no lady fair /&s at its ?re%old = ! greet+2 b in/ead1 !re /&s ) ! old k+ a noble y\? :o1 to all appe>ances1 seems to h be5 be=eh&1 9 ! bus9ess ( woo+ & w9n+ ! "y pr9cess's he>t1 ) ! la/ com]4 ,!re are ^! words ^u ! scroll1--8,i* hab vor e9em 444 g]i*t e9] tub5 und mi* yr v]pfli*t20 8,i h be=e a 444 tribunal ( a dove1 & h myself engag$ to h]20 mean+ t already _h he himself betro!d ! k+'s daught]1 by swe>+ to h] 8 love & tru? be=e a dove--a ?+ q m$ival1 l ! v[s ( ! swan1 ! peacock1 & ! pheasant1 z we h notic$ 9 ! ,introduction1 & aga9 :ile treat+ ( ! ,syon ,cope1 at p4 #bh4 ,on 8 side1 ! old k+ ?us addresses him1--8,mi* dunckt du kom/ ub] l& 444 zu d] ho*zeit20 8,me?9ks ?\ come/ ov]-l& 444 to see ! w$d+40 ,9 ?is1 z 9 o!r inscriptions1 ! :ole ( ! words _c be made out4 ,! fif? comp>tm5t %[s u ! second & successful woo]1 dress$ out 9 ! same attire z be=e1 b n[ rid+ a well-appo9t$ /e$1 & boot$ 9 ! mann] ( ^? times4 ,he is wait$ on by a m\nt$ page4 ,on a scroll are ! words1--8,umb sehnli*/ i* nun kme 444 i/ die ewige 44420 8,t ,i mo/ passionately n[ c 444 is ! et]nal10 c4 ,9 ! la/ comp>tm5t ! reject$ woo] is se5 rid+ away z he came--)\t a bride--foll[$ by two grooms4 ,?\gh r\gh 9 its execution1 ?is piece ( tape/ry is valuable n only = its specim5s ( co/ume1 l our own at ! p]iod1 b especially = its inscriptions1 :i* betray ! prov9cialisms belong+ to ! s\? ( ,g]many2 & "s ( _! expressions are said to be ev5 yet 9 daily use ab\t ! neighb\rhood ( ,nuremb]g1 to :i* locality we are w>rant$1 = sev]al reasons1 9 ascrib+ ! production ( ?is e>ly example ( ! ,g]man loom4 #adhj4 ,tape/ry ,hang+2 )9 a n>r[ bord] ( a d>k gre5 gr\nd1 ornam5t$ ) fl[]s mo/ly p9k1 & fruit-be>+ bran*es ( ! v9e1 is figur$ a subject j outside ! gates ( a l>ge wall$ city1 & ^u ! fl[]y turf4 ,flemi%1 beg9n+ ( ! #af? c5tury1 #ac feet by #aa feet #f in*es4 ,to all appe>ance ! subject is tak5 f ! ,gospel ( ,/4 ,john1 *ap4 #i1 :]e ! miracle is relat$ ( our ,"l giv+ sight to ! man born bl9d1 :o has j come back f wa%+ 9 ! pool ( ,siloam1 & is answ]+ 8 neighb\rs :o _h hi!rto kn[n him z ! bl9d begg>4 ,9 front /&s an important p]sonage 9 a tunic ( clo? ( gold %ot light blue1 ov] :i* he we>s a %ort] "o ( f9e crimson diap]$ 9 gold1 hav+ a broad jewell$ hem2 ( a ri* gold /uff is 8 l(ty turban4 ,9 8 left h& he holds a long w&1 end+ 9 an arr[-%ap$ head4 ,at ! feet ( ?is high function>y kneels ! poor man bless$ ) sight1 :ile he is tak+ f him a some?+ l a squ>e glass bottle1 & holds 8 co>se hat 9 8 h&4 ,ne> b above him /&s a lady we>+ a mo/ curi\s head-dress1 :i* is blue1 ) two r$ w+s bri/l+ at its sides4 ,! re/ ( h] array is exactly l1 9 %ape & /uffs1 to ! magnific5t app>el ( ! fir/ portly male figure1 s z to lead u to believe t %e mu/ be 8 wife1 himself be+ "o ( ! ,jewi% *ief prie/s4 ,talk+ ) h] is ano!r ,jew spl5didly dress$1 & be>+ a w& 9 "o h&2 & beh9d h] we see a man we>+ e>r+s1 & a woman belong+ to ! l[] class--probably ! cur$ man's fa!r & "m4 ,n f> away f ! prie/1 & at 8 back1 are soldi]s ) lances1 & "o ) a halb]t1 be=e :om /&s a well-dress$1 mantl$ & hood$ ,ph>isee1 ) a roll$-up volume 9 8 h&1 & look+ ) a some:at haughty sc[l ^u ! man kneel+ on ! gr\nd4 ,above ! walls are se5 ! domes ( sev]al l>ge build+s1 ( :i* "o looks z if x 7 ! temple ( ,j]usalem2 & all ab\t ! battlem5ts are p gaz+ d[n ^u ! sc5e b5ea? !m4 ,s ,flemi% is ! ,go?ic /yle ( ar*itecture on ! gates1 ar\nd :i* are mock inscriptions1 & on ! walls ( ! city1 t we f9d at once t ! tape/ry mu/ h be5 design$ & wr\ght 9 ,fl&]s4 ,?\gh ! %apes ( ! dresses be = ! mo/ "p q imag9>y1 /ill ! diap]+ on ! gorge\s clo?s ( gold is aft] ! /yle !n 9 vogue & well r5d]$4 #adha4 ,tape/ry ,wall-hang+2 subject1 ,neptune /ill+ ! w9d-/orm rais$ at ,juno's reque/ by olus aga9/ ! ,trojan fleet on ! ,sicilian coa/4 ,flemi%1 #ag? c5tury4 ,evid5tly ! design] ( ?is tape/ry meant to illu/rate ,virgil at ! beg9n+ ( 8 fir/ book ( ! neid4 ,to ! left h& is se5 ,boreas ) a lance1 :i* he is aim+ aga9/ ,neptune1 9 "o h&1 :ile 9 ! o!r he holds by a cord a r\gh wood5 yoke1 to :i* are ti$ two boys float+ 9 ! wat]1 & ea* ) a pair ( bell[s1 :i* he is bl[+4 ,drawn by two /e$s comes ,neptune ) uplift$ trid5t1 to /ill ! w9ds rais$ by ! two boys2 & ov] 8 head are ,eurus & ! we/]n w9d 9 ! %ape ( females fly+ 9 ! air1 "o snapp+ ! tall ma/ ( "o ( neas's %ips1 & ! o!r p\r+ out broad /reams ( wat] f f\r vases1 "o 9 ea* h&4 ,! bell[s are v l ^? elaborately-c>v$ ones 9 ! ,museum1 out ( ,s\lages collection4 #adhc4 ,tape/ry ,wall-hang+2 subject1 neas & ,a*ates be=e ,dido1 at ,c>?age4 ,flemi%1 #ag? c5tury4 ,! passage1 9 ,virgil's fir/ book ( ! neid1 descriptive ( neas1 ) ! fai?ful ,a*ates at 8 side1 relat+ 8 adv5tures to ,dido1 ! ,c>?ag9ian que51 is "h illu/rat$4 ,! y\?ful pr9cess1 en?ron$ b5ea? a clo? ( e/ate1 is li/5+ to ! ,trojan pr9ce be=e h]1 & ar\nd are h] ladies 9 gay co/ume1 h] own be+ ( light blue silk damask$ ) a l>ge gold5 fl[]4 ,z a backgr\nd we see ! port fill$ ) neas's %ips1 to :i* c\ntrym5 are driv+ %eep & ox5 = _! crews4 ,! wom5 are q ( ! ,flemi% type ( fat beauty1 & ! odd head-dress = a man on ,a*ates is rem>kable4 #aehb4 ,tape/ry ,hang+2 subject1 ! dep>ture ( neas f ,c>?age4 ,flemi%1 #ag? c5tury4 ,9 ! =egr\nd is neas tak+ leave ( ,dido1 :o is fa9t+ into ! arms ( h] wait+ ladies4 ,beh9d1 is a y\? work+ z a mason & build+ a wall3 fur!r back1 are se5 horses ri*ly cap>ison$1 ^u "o ( :i* rides ,dido1 :ile ,m]cury comes fly+ d[n bidd+ neas to ha/e him away4 #afhc4 ,tape/ry ,wall-hang+2 subject1 ,v5us appe>+ to neas 9 a wood4 ,! second book ( ! neid has furni%$ ! design] ) ! mat]ials = ?is piece4 ,j z neas _h uplift$ 8 h& to slay ,hel51 ,v5us appe>s1 /ays 8 arms1 & reasons ) him4 ,s says ,virgil2 b "h we m]ely see ,m]cury com+ d[n f ! cl\ds1 & ,v5us reveal+ h]self to h] son4 ,! admir]s ( ! beautiful 9 =m & face w n f9d mu* to please !m 9 ! lady's p]son4 ,?is piece closes ! hi/ory ( neas z giv5 9 ^! tape/ries1 :i* came f ! palace1 or1 z x us$ to be call$1 ! ,k+'s ,h\se at ,newm>ket4 ,all ?r\gh1 ,dido is made to appe> 9 ! same k9d ( co/ume2 b ! dresses 9 g5]al are purely imag9$ by ! arti/1 )\t ! slighte/ au?ority f ! monum5ts ( ei!r ,greek or ,roman antiquity3 & ! ar*itectural p>ts are q 9 ! debas$ classic /yle ( ! #ag? c5tury1 z foll[$ 9 ,fl&]s4 ,all ^! tape/ries are fram$ 9 a r$ bord]1 wr\ght at ! sides ) scrolls & %ields1 & bel[1 ) w+$ boys hold+ labels once %[+ inscriptions 7n[ fad$7 all %ot ) gold1 b t>ni%$ black4 ,_m ( ! female figures are slip-%od1 l ,/4 ,m>y ,magdal5 9 ,rub5s's 8,tak+ d[n f ! ,cross10 at ,antw]p4 #fgcc4 ,tape/ry ,hang+2 subject1 ! /ory ( ,arria & ,paetus1 copi$ f a pa9t+ by ,francois ,&r ,v9c5t1 & dat$ #aghe4 ,! bord] 0 add$ aft]w>ds4 ,fr5*1 done at ! ,gobel9s4 #ab feet by #aj feet #f in*es4 ,pres5t$ by ,8 ,imp]ial ,highness ,pr9ce ,napoleon4 ,! subject is a />tl+ "o2 be+ condemn$ to die1 by ! ,emp]or ,claudius1 & put an end to 8 life ) 8 own h&1 ,paetus hesitat$4 ,see+ ?is1 8 wife ,arria snat*$ up ! weapon & plung$ x to ! hilt 9 h] own bosom1 & !n h&+ ! dagg] to h] husb&1 said1 8,x does n pa9 me1 ,paetus40 ,at top1 on a blue gr\nd1 is a l>ge ,n 9 yell[1 indicative ( ! fir/ ,napoleon1 :o1 9 ! ye> #ahjg pres5t$ ?is f9e specim5 ( ! f>-fam$ ,gobel9 tape/ry to 8 bro!r ,j]ome1 at ! "t ,k+ ( ,we/phalia1 z a m>riage gift4 ,by ! late ,pr9ce ,j]ome x 0 s5t1 ?r\gh 8 son1 ! pres5t ,pr9ce ,napoleon1 = pres5tation to ?is ,museum4 #bddb4 ,tape/ry ,wall-hang+2 design1 gr\ps ( ri*ly-dress$ ladies & g5tlem5 ar\nd a que54 ,flemi%1 e>ly #af? c5tury4 ,app>5tly ! cr[d$ sc5e be=e u is meant to illu/rate "s symbolic subject4 ,9 ! mid/ ( !m all /&s a que51 ^: h&s are clasp$4 ,be=e h] kneels a man :o respectfully b>es 8 head ! :ile he out/ret*es to ! pr9cess a writt5 pap]4 ,beh9d /&s a magnific5t *air4 ,fur!r back is a nicely-%[n int]ior ( a room hav+ its cupbo>d load$ ) vases /&+ on ! %elves2 !re sit ?ree ladies 9 e>ne/ talk4 ,all ab\t are gr\ps ( ri*ly-clo!d m5 & wom51 ea* ( ^: dresses is wor?y ( notice4 #bddc4 ,tape/ry2 subject1 a l&scape1 ! =egr\nd /rew$ ) human & animals' bones1 & a liv+ figure sitt+ among rocks4 ,fr5*1 e>ly #ag? c5tury4 ,?is is "o ( a %ort s]ies ( tape/ries sett+ =?1 b sometimes laugh+ at1 ! ideas ( ! anci5t cynics4 ,be=e u "h we h a wild dell clo!d 9 trees on "o side1 on ! o!r pil$ ) rocks capp$1 9 "s places1 by ru9s4 ,seat$ on a /one1 ) a book held 9 8 h&1 is ,diog5es 9 m$itation1 ) human bones1 animal skulls1 & mon/] ?+s ab\t him4 ,! "w is well done1 & %[s h[ p]fect 0 ! loom t wr\ght x4 ,on a blue tablet at top runs ?is inscription1--8,diog5es d]isor omnium 9 f9e defigitur40 #bhjg4 ,tape/ry2 subject1 ! visit ( ,alex&] ! ,great to ,diog5es 9 8 tub4 ,fr5*1 e>ly #ag? c5tury4 ,! sc5e is well laid out1 peopl$ ) _m figures1 & its /ory neatly told4 ,above1 9 ! usual place1 is ?is inscription1--8,s5sit ,alex&] te/ quum vidit 9 ill magnum habitatorem1 quanto felicior hic1 qui nil cup]et 7qum7 qui totum sibi posc]et orbem40 #chah4 ,tape/ry2 subject1 a beautifully-wood$ sc5e ) a /ream runn+ d[n ! middle ( x1 & across :i* two m51 "o on ea* side1 are talk+4 ,fr5*1 e>ly #ag? c5tury4 ,on "o side /&s ,dionysius2 on ! o!r1 & hold+ a bun* ( vegetables1 :i* he is ab\t to wa% 9 ! brook1 is ,diog5es1 :o 0 n rem>kable = 8 p]sonal cleanl9ess4 ,dionysius1 x w\ld seem1 has be5 twitt+ him ^u t subject1 & gets = answ] t 8 v pres5ce ta9ts ) dirt ,diog5es himself1 & ! wat]s 9 :i* he is ab\t to wa% 8 pot-h]bs3 8,sordet mihi ,dionysius lavanti ol]a10 z ! ,lat9 inscription reads above4 #dcca4 ,tape/ry ,wall-hang+2 design1 a wood$ sc5e 9 ! backgr\nd2 9 ! =egr\nd1 ,diog5es & a man4 ,fr5*1 e>ly #ag? c5tury4 ,be=e a l>ge tub1 ly+ on its side1 is /ret*$ out ,diog5es1 po9t+ 8 f+] to 8 curi\s dwell+1 ) 8 head look+ t[>ds a wayf>]1 to :om he seems to say ^? words trac$ on ! blue label at ! top1--8,qui domum ambit hanc 7anne87 me sepeliat40 ,?is appe>s to h be5 drawn f 8 lips by ! man go+ by1 :o is po9t+ t[>ds ! gap+ m\? ( ! tub4 #dfej4 ,tape/ry2 subject1 a gate-way built ( r\gh /one1 ov] :i* a female is trac+ an inscription1 ( :i* are writt5 9 l>ge capital lett]s ^! words3-- 8,nihil hic +r$iatur mali40 ,besides ?is1 we f9d ^! s5t5ces also3-- 8,diog5es ,cynicus subscribit20 &1 8,spado scel]atus scripsit40 ,9 ^! five pieces ( tape/ry1 :i* 7 evid5tly employ$ = hang+ ! walls 9 "s especial hall1 we _c b admire ! ease & fre$om ( _! :ole design1 & be /ruck especially by ! beauty ( _! wild1 yet *>m+ l&scapes1 :i* are s well br\ght out by ! weav]-arti/ :o wr\ght !m4 #gibf4 ,tape/ry2 subject1 ! holy family1 aft] ,raphael4 ,pres5t$ by ,8 ,imp]ial ,maje/y ! ,emp]or ,napoleon ,,iii4 ,no words are necess>y to call ! obs]v]'s att5tion to ?is admirable specim5 ( ! ,fr5* loom4 ,( ! _m f9e pieces s5t =? by ! manufactory ( ! ,gobel9s1 ?is may easily take a place among ! v f9e/2 &1 at fir/ sight1 _m p might be l$ to ?9k t x 0 ! "w ( ! p5cil1 & n ( ma*9]y4 ,ab\t x !re is a w>m? & dep? ( mell[ col\r+ :i* has p>tly fl$ f ! orig9al1 ?r\gh "t &1 may be1 want ( c>e4 ,^? :o h se5 ! pictures at ! ,l\vre mu/ well rememb] ! gr& & preci\s orig9al ( :i* ?is is su* a successful copy4 #ahi4 ,tape/ry ,wall-hang+2 design1 our ,"l giv+ ! p[] ( ! keys to ,/4 ,pet]1 aft] ,raphael's c>toon4 ,engli% 7probably f ,soho71 #ag? c5tury4 #ag feet #a in* by #ab feet4 ,! po9t ( "t *os5 by ! great ,roman pa9t] is t indicat$ by ,/4 ,mat!w1 xvi4 #ah1 #ai2 = ,/4 ,pet] holds ! keys promis$ him by 8 div9e ,ma/]1 at ^: feet he alone1 ( all ! apo/les1 is kneel+4 ,beh9d our ,"l is a l>ge flock ( %eep1 z explanatory ( ! pa/oral p[] be/[$1 aft] ,8 upris+ f ! grave1 by our ,savi\r ^u ,/4 ,pet] m especially1 to fe$ ! %eep z well z lambs 9 ,8 flock1 z we read 9 ,/4 ,john1 xxi4 #af1 #ag3 bo? subjects are naturally connect$4 ,by ! _m engrav+s1 b1 m p>ticul>ly1 ! f9e photographs ( ! orig9al c>toon1 once at ,hampton ,c\rt1 n[ 9 ?is ,museum1 ?is subject is well kn[n4 ,9 ?is especial piece1 ! col\r+1 be+ s badly graduat$ & g>i%1 is by no means z good z 9 ! e>li] "o1 /ill to be se5 9 ! ,gall]y ( ! ,tape/ries at ! ,vatican4 ,"h1 ! tone ( our ,"l's drap]y is n di/+ui%able f ! /ony hue ( ! wool ^u ! %eep beh9d ,him4 #hbbe4 ,panel ( ,tape/ry2 gr\nd1 light blue2 design1 bun*es ( fl[]s ^u a :ite panel4 #b feet #aa in*es by #b feet #c in*es4 ,aubusson1 pres5t c5tury4 ,pres5t$ by ,messrs4 ,requill>t1 ,r\ssel1 & ,*ocqueel4 ,aft] ,p>is ) ! ,gobel9s1 & ! city ( ,beauvais1 !re is no t[n 9 ,france :i* produces su* f9e tape/ries z ,aubusson1 ! c>pets ( :i* are mu* admir$4 #gibg to #gicj4 ,f\r ,pieces ( ,tape/ry2 gr\nd1 light blue2 design1 fl[]s4 ,fr5*1 pres5t c5tury4 ,pres5t$ by ,8 ,imp]ial ,maje/y ! ,emp]or ,napoleon ,,iii4 ,beauvais1 :i* produc$ ^! beautiful specim5s1 has long be5 fam\s = ! works ( ! loom2 & ! pres5t lovely figures ( su* well-drawn1 nicely-col\r$ fl[]s are wor?y ( t city's reputation4 #eid4 ,tape/ry ,wall-hang+2 subject1 ,e/h] ab\t to v5ture into ! pres5ce ( ,ahasu]us4 ,f ! ,s\lages ,collection4 ,flemi%1 fir/ half ( ! #af? c5tury4 ,height #ac feet1 bread? #aa feet #f in*es4 ,! hi/ory1 z "h %[n u1 ( a mo/ ev5tful a*ievem5t1 is at top di/ribut$ into f\r gr\ps1 ea* made up ( figures r small 9 /ature2 & at bottom1 into o!r five clu/]s1 9 :i* all ! p]sonages assume a proportion little %ort ( life-size4 ,beg9n+ ) ^? high] comp>tm5ts on ! piece1 we f9d 9 ! two at ! left-h& side ! comm5cem5t ( ?is ,scriptural record4 ,! mighty ,ahasu]us is pres5t$ to u 9 ! second ( ^? two gr\ps !re1 z seat$ amid trees1 & rob$ z w\ld h be5 a sov]eign pr9ce dur+ ! fir/ half ( ! sixte5? c5tury4 ,all ab\t 8 head & neck ! ,p]sian k+ we>s1 wrapp$ 9 loose folds1 a l95 clo?1 ov] :i* he has a l>ge sc>let hat ) an ornam5t = a cr[n1 made up ( small silv] %ield-%ap$ plates1 m>k$ ) w$ge-l /ripes ( a light blue col\r1 or h]aldically1 arg5t1 five piles azure meet+ at ! base2 ov] 8 %\ld]s falls an unspott$ erm9e cape jagg$ all ab\t its edge s z to look z if meant = a nebule bord]4 ,^u ! left brea/ ( ?is sort ( mantle is sew$ a little crimson %ield-%ap$ badge m>k$ 9 :ite seem+ly ) ! lett] ,a1 n hav+1 h[ev]1 ! /roke ?r\gh x1 b above1 ! sign ( contraction da%$4 ,he we>s a blue tab>d1 is girt ) a sword1 & holds 9 8 left h& a tall w&1 t gold5 sceptre :i*1 if n out/ret*$ 9 tok5 ( clem5cy t[>ds ! man or woman :o _h ! h>dihood to come unbidd5 to 8 pres5ce1 signifi$ t su* a bold intrud]1 7 %e ! que5 h]self1 mu/ be put to dea?4 ,hav+ nobles & gu>ds ab\t him1 ?is mon>* ( "o hundr$ & tw5ty-sev5 prov9ces is h&+ to ,haman1 "o ( ^? ?ree pr9ces be=e him1 a writt5 docum5t f :i* hang two royal seals3 ?is is t t]rible decree1 :i*1 out ( spite t[>ds ,mordecai1 & hatr$ = ! ,jewi% race1 ,haman _h won f 8 p>tial ma/] ,ahasu]us1 = ! slaught]1 on a c]ta9 day1 ( e ,hebrew )9 ! ,p]sian empire4 ,yet fur!r to ! left is ano!r gr\p1 :]e9 we obs]ve "s ( ! ri*ly-attir$ function>ies ( ! empire4 ,a b>ehead$ old man1 a royal mess5g]1 :o holds up 8 left h& z if to indicate he _h come f ! c\rt ( ,ahasu]us1 deliv]s to "o ( ! nobles !re ?is orig9al decree to be copi$ out & s5t 9 all directions ?r\gh ! k+dom4 ,look+ /ill at top1 b to ! f> "r1 we h 9 ! backgr\nd1 amid ! trees1 a l>ge h\se1 f out ( ! mid/ ( :i* /&s up a tall r$ beam1 ! gibbet1 fifty cubits high1 got ready by ,haman at 8 wife's & fri5ds' sugge/ion = hang+ on x ,mordecai4 ,9 ?is =egr\nd we behold ,haman clad 9 a blue mantle & a ri* gold5 *a9 ab\t 8 neck3 to ! man /&+ respectfully be=e him1 cap 9 h&1 ,haman gives ! writt5 ord] duly au!nticat$ by ! two imp]ial seals ^u x1 = ! execution ( ,mordecai4 ,imm$iately to ! left ( ?is sc5e we are pres5t$ ) ! inside view ( a f9e *amb] hung ) tape/ry1 & ornam5t$ ) tall vases1 two ( :i* are on a %elf close by a lattice-w9d[4 ,9 ! middle ( ?is room is a gr\p ( ?ree wom53 "o ( !m1 ,e/h]1 ri*ly clad1 is seat$ & wr++ h] h&s 9 great grief1 z if %e _h le>n$ ! fell dea? await+ h] uncle1 & ! slaught] already decre$ ( all h] nation3 two ( h] g5tlewom5 are ) h]1 wail+1 l _! que5-mi/ress1 ! com+ cata/rophe4 ,"r 9 ! c5tre ( ! piece1 & occupy+ its mo/ conspicu\s position1 we behold ! tall /ately figure ( a beautiful "y que51 spl5didly array$1 & we>+ ov] ! ri* caul ^u h] head a royal diadem4 ,%e seems to h j aris5 f ! magnific5t ?rone or r fald/ool close beh9d h]4 ,) bo? h] h&s clasp$ 9 supplication1 %e is foll[$ 9 h] upw>d c\rse by h] tra9 ( att5dants--two ladies & a nobleman--all gaily dress$1 ?read+ _! way ?r\gh z !y asc5d f ! hall bel[ cr[d$ ) c\rti]s1 m5 & wom5 gossip+ toge!r 9 little knots1 & set (f 9 fa%ionable dress4 ,:ile b5d+ h] /eps1 ,e/h] looks t[>ds ! spot :]e ,ahasu]us is sitt+4 ,at ?is mom5t an oldi% man /eps =w>d1 clad aft] a beseem+ fa%ion3 9 "o h& he holds 8 r$ cap1 :ile ) ! o!r h& he is /ret*+ out1 = ,e/h]'s acceptance1 8 inscrib$ roll4 ,?is p]son mu/ be ,mordecai1 ?us %[n z in/ruct+ & enc\rag+ 8 niece-que5 ,e/h] 9 ! haz>d\s "w ( sav+ h] p's lives1 at ! same "t t he furni%es h] ) a copy ( ! decree = _! utt] annihilation4 ,?is inn] c\rt ( ! ,k+'s h\se :]e ,e/h] is n[ /&+ ov] aga9/ ! hall 9 :i* ,ahasu]us sits ^u 8 ?rone is cr[d$ ) c\rti]s1 all rem>kable = ! elegance & co/l9ess ( _! dress4 ,9 a circle ( ?ree great p]sonages to ! "r1 "o ( ^? high-born dames has br\ght ) h] h] guit>1 made 9 ! =m ( ! calaba%1 to help on by h] music ! expect$ mir? & revelry ( ! day4 ,9 ^? sev]al in/ances 9 :i* ! royal decree is figur$ ) ! imp]ial seals hang+ f x1 ! impression /amp$ ^u ! wax seems1 no d\bt1 to be tak5 z ! ciph] ( ,ahasu]us1 a l>ge ,a1 b )\t ! /roke ?r\gh x4 ,"o rem>kable feature among ! ornam5ts ( dress assum$ by almo/ all ! great p]sonages 9 ?is piece ( tape/ry is ! l>ge-l9k$1 heavy gold5 *a9 ab\t ! neck1 worn z mu* by ladies z by g5tlem54 ,! caps ( ! m5 are mo/ly squ>e4 ,! elaborately-adorn$1 closely-fitt+1 r\nd-%ap$ caul worn by ! wom5 9 ?is c\rt ( ,ahasu]us is 9 /rict accordance ) ! female fa%ion abroad at ! beg9n+ ( ! sixte5? c5tury2 :ile "h1 9 ,engl&1 ! gable-head$ coif f\nd m fav\r ?an ! r\nd ) our c\ntrywom54 ,!n1 h[ev]1 z n[1 ladies lov$ long tra9s to _! g[ns2 & ! m5's %oes _h t peculi> broad toe s conspicu\sly m>k$ 9 ,hans ,holbe9's c>toon = a picture ( our ,h5ry ,,viii4 belong+ to ! ,duke ( ,devon%ire1 & exhibit$ among ! ,national ,portraits on loan to ! ,s\? ,k5s+ton ,museum1 ,a4,d4 #ahff4 #higi4 ,tape/ry ,hang+2 subject1 ! ?ree ,fates ) a "y lady ly+ dead at _! feet4 ,flemi%1 e>ly #af? c5tury4 ,) a grove ( bloom+ trees beh9d !m1 & ^u a lawn1 ev]y:]e spr9kl$ ) _m k9ds ( fl[]s1 /& ! ,fates4 ,ea* ( ! weird si/]s may be individually kn[n by h] prop] "n writt5 9 :ite lett]s ne> h] head4 ,beg9n+ f ! "r side ( ! piece1 we h ! sp9/] ,clo?o1 :o is figur$ z a y\?ful maid52 amid ! b\ghs ( a tree j above h] is se5 a long-bill$ bird ( ! snipe-k9d2 %e is gaily dress$ 9 a yell[ kirtle1 elaborately diap]$ aft] a fl[]y patt]n done 9 gre51 ov] :i* %e we>s a g[n ( deep crimson velvet1 :ile f h] girdl$ wai/ falls a l>ge gold5 *a9 end+ 9 a gold pom&]4 ,9 h] left h& %e holds a di/aff1 keep+ at ! same "t betwe5 h] f+]s ! ?read :i* %e has b j done sp9n+4 ,next to ,clo?o /&s ,la*esis1 almo/ z "y 9 look2 %e is n q s sprightly b yet z elegantly clad z h] si/] ) ! di/aff2 bill+ & coo+ above ?is feign$ manag] ( individual de/9y we behold a pair ( turtle-doves2 ?is second ( ! ,fates is clad 9 robes ( a light p9k tone nicely & arti/ically diap]$1 & ) h] left h& %e takes f ,clo?o ! ?read j spun & ) h] "r passes x on to ,atropos4 ,?is ! la/1 & ! mo/ dread$ ( ! fatal ?ree1 looks old] ?an ! o!r two1 & is array$ m matronly4 ,clo!d 9 deep blue1 ,atropos we>s a l>ge full :ite k]*ief1 :i*1 z its "n implies1 n only cov]s h] head1 b falls well d[n f h] %\ld]s half-way to h] broad girdle1 ^u :i* is slung a /r+ ( beads = pray]--a ros>y4 ,atropos1 ^: imag9>y (fice 0 to cut ) knife1 or scissors1 or a pair ( %e>s1 ! ?read ( life1 uses no su* an in/rum5t "h2 = ) h] h&s %e has brok5 ! life-cord1 & ! sp9dle1 ar\nd :i* x _h be5 w\nd1 lies ?r[n ^u ! fl[]y turf close by ! head ( ! victim ( ! ,fates4 ,at ! feet ( ^! ?ree si/]s lies1 /ret*$ out 9 all h] fulle/ l5g?1 a y\?ful lady dead4 ,%e we>s a k]*ief on h] head1 & ov] h] ri*ly-diap]$ p9k g[n %e has a light crimson mantle ?ickly p[d]$ ) small gold5 cresc5ts4 ,h] b$ seems made ( e>ly summ] fl[]s2 & alongside ( h]1 & z if j fall5 f h] out/ret*$ "r h&1 lies ! tall /alk1 snapp$ %ort (f ne> ! l[] end1 ( a bloom+ :ite lily4 ,at "o side1 b l[] d[n1 is ! half-figure ( a monkey2 "s way to ! "r1 b on ! same level1 sits 9 quiet security a l>ge br[n h>e2 :ile betwe5 ^! two animals1 f out a hole 9 ! gr\nd1 z if !y snuff$ _! future prey 9 ! dead body1 are creep+ a weasel & a /oat1 j aft] a l>ge toad t has crawl$ out be=e !m4 ,?is piece ( tape/ry1 valuable alike = its arti/ic excell5ce & its good pres]vation1 has a m ?an common int]e/ ab\t x4 ,9 all likelihood x gives u ! hi/ory1 nay1 p]haps af=ds u ! v portraiture ( "s high-born1 beautiful "y lady1 well kn[n & admir$ 9 h] day4 ,a little some?+ at lea/ may be ga!r$ f its symbolism4 ,by ! hea!n my?ological di/ribution ( functions among ! poetic ,p>c1 or ,fates1 to ! second ( ^! ?ree si/]s1 to ,la*esis1 0 x giv5 to decide ! especial de/9y ( ea* mortal ! h\r t %e or he 0 born4 ,n[ 9 ! in/ance be=e u a pair ( turtle-doves1 love's emblem1 is conspicu\sly %[n above ! head ( ,la*esis4 ,z ?is "y lady's life-?read slipp$ ?r\gh h] f+]s ,la*esis has t\*$ x1 quick5$ x s t ! *ild = :om x is be+ spun %all h a he>t all maid5ly1 b s(t to ! impressions ( ! g5tle passion--love4 ,%e has be5 woo$ & made a bride1 = %e has on ! m>ri$ woman's k]*ief4 ,t lily-/em ) its op5+ buds & full-bl[n fl[]s at top is ! emblem ( a spotless :it5ess1 an un/a9$ innoc5ce2 ! /alk is brok51 b ! fl[]s on x are un)]$4 ,:at fitt] tok5s ( a bride's unlook$-= dea?1 ! v morn+ ( h] m>riage8 ,b t monkey-emblem ( mis*ief1 evil1 moral ugl9ess1 & 9 p>ticul> ( lubricity--p]haps may mean u to und]/& ! wor?lessness ( wanton1 pr(ligate m54 ,z ! h>mless unsuspect+ h>e is easily sn>$ & tak5 9 a toil1 s %e might h be5 caught1 b may h be5 sp>$1 by e>ly dea?1 a life ( mis]y4 ,^? loa?some ?+s com+ f out ! gr\nd w>n m5 t all ( u mu/ "o day or ano!r become ! prey ( ! grave1 & t y\?1 & innoc5ce1 & beauty w be its food4 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration ,,! ,,brooke ,,collection4 #edb4 '#fd4 ,*ri/5+ ,ribbon1 :ite silk ) silv] gimp edge4 ,engli%1 #ah? c5tury4 ,l5g? #f feet #i in*es1 wid? #b in*es4 ,pres5t$ by ! ,rev4 ,r4 ,brooke4 #heh1 #heh;,b4 '#fd4 ,c\rt suit1 coat & knee-bree*es1 ( *]ry-col\r$ ,g5oa velvet1 :ite sat9 l9+1 wai/coat :ite sat9 embroid]$ 9 col\r$ silks & silv]4 ,engli%1 dat$ #aggb4 ,l5g? ( coat #c feet #b in*es1 l5g? ( bree*es #b feet1 l5g? ( wai/coat #b feet #e in*es4 ,pres5t$ by ! ,rev4 ,r4 ,brooke4 #hei1 #hei;,b4 '#fd4 ,dress suit1 coat1 wai/coat1 & knee-bree*es1 ( p9k silk brocade ) a diap]$ fl[] patt]n4 ,engli%1 date ab\t #aggj4 ,l5g? ( coat #c feet #b in*es1 l5g? ( wai/coat #b feet #f in*es1 l5g? ( bree*es #b feet #d in*es4 ,pres5t$ by ! ,rev4 ,r4 ,brooke4 #hfj4 '#fd4 ,apron1 :ite silk1 ) rais$ floral embroid]y4 ,engli%1 date ab\t #agbj4 ,l5g? #b feet #j in*1 wid? #b feet #i in*es4 ,pres5t$ by ! ,rev4 ,r4 ,brooke4 #hfa4 '#fd4 ,apron1 yell[ silk1 ) rais$ floral embroid]y1 9 col\rs1 bord]$ ) silk lace4 ,engli%1 date ab\t #agbj4 ,l5g? #b feet #a in*1 wid? #b feet #aj in*es4 ,pres5t$ by ! ,rev4 ,r4 ,brooke4 #hfb4 '#fd4 ,apron1 :ite silk1 ) col\r$ floral embroid]y & silv] cord4 ,engli%1 date ab\t #agbj4 ,l5g? #a foot #g in*es1 wid? #c feet4 ,pres5t$ by ! ,rev4 ,r4 ,brooke4 #hfc4 '#fd4 ,apron1 :ite silk1 ) purple floral embroid]y & gold cord4 ,engli%1 date ab\t #agbj4 ,l5g? #a foot #i in*es1 wid? #c feet #b in*es4 ,pres5t$ by ! ,rev4 ,r4 ,brooke4 #hfd4 '#fd4 ,portion ( ,embroid]y1 fl[]s 9 col\r$ silks 7*iefly orange7 on l95 gr\nd cov]$ ) /it*$ scroll patt]n4 ,engli%1 #ah? c5tury4 ,l5g? #a foot #aj in*es1 wid? #a foot #f in*es4 ,pres5t$ by ! ,rev4 ,r4 ,brooke4 #hfe4 '#fd4 ,portion ( ,embroid]y1 fl[]s 9 col\r$ silks 7*iefly orange7 on l95 gr\nd cov]$ ) /it*$ scroll patt]n4 ,engli%1 #ah? c5tury4 ,l5g? #a foot #a in*es1 wid? #a foot #f in*es4 ,pres5t$ by ! ,rev4 ,r4 ,brooke4 #hff4 '#fd4 ,portion ( ,embroid]y1 fl[]s 9 col\r$ silks 7*iefly orange7 on l95 gr\nd cov]$ ) /it*$ scroll patt]n4 ,engli%1 #ah? c5tury4 ,l5g? #b feet #b in*es1 wid? #b feet4 ,pres5t$ by ! ,rev4 ,r4 ,brooke4 #hfg4 '#fd4 ,piece ( ,brocade1 crimson sat9 ) cut velvet floral patt]n2 bord]$ ) silv] gimp & spangles4 ,fr5*1 date ab\t #aggj4 ,l5g? #c feet #e in*es1 wid? #c feet #b in*es4 ,pres5t$ by ! ,rev4 ,r4 ,brooke4 #hfh4 '#fd4 ,piece ( ,brocade1 crimson sat9 ) cut velvet floral patt]n2 bord]$ ) silv] gimp & spangles4 ,fr5*1 date ab\t #aggj4 ,l5g? #f feet1 wid? #c feet #b in*es4 ,pres5t$ by ! ,rev4 ,r4 ,brooke4 #hfi4 '#fd4 ,mantilla1 yell[ silk & black lace4 ,engli%1 date ab\t #aggj4 ,l5g?1 z worn1 #e feet1 wid? ( skirt #c feet4 ,pres5t$ by ! ,rev4 ,r4 ,brooke4 #hgj4 '#fd4 ,boddice1 yell[ silk4 ,engli%1 date ab\t #aggj4 ,height #ab in*es1 wid? #b feet #d in*es4 ,pres5t$ by ! ,rev4 ,r4 ,brooke4 #hga4 '#fd4 ,table-cov]1 p9k silk edg$ ) silv] gimp4 ,engli%1 #ah? c5tury4 ,l5g? #c feet #e in*es1 wid? #c feet4 ,pres5t$ by ! ,rev4 ,r4 ,brooke4 #hgb4 '#fd4 ,piece ( ,silk1 p9k ribb$1 l9$ ) p9k s>snet4 ,engli%1 #ah? c5tury4 ,l5g? #c feet #d in*es1 wid? #d feet4 ,pres5t$ by ! ,rev4 ,r4 ,brooke4 #hgc4 '#fd4 ,silk ,fr+e1 gre5 & yell[4 ,engli%1 date ab\t #agdj4 ,l5g? #h feet #a in*1 dep? #c in*es4 ,pres5t$ by ! ,rev4 ,r4 ,brooke4 #hgd4 '#fd4 ,c\nt]pane1 :ite l95 embroid]$ ) runn+ patt]n2 9 c5tre a scroll ornam5t ) ciph] & scroll bord]1 all 9 yell[ silk4 ,engli%1 #ag? c5tury4 ,l5g? #g feet #h in*es1 wid? #f feet #aa in*es4 ,pres5t$ by ! ,rev4 ,r4 ,brooke4 #hge4 '#fd4 ,cu%ion-cov]1 :ite l95 embroid]$ ) runn+ patt]n & scroll ornam5t1 yell[ silk2 ciph] 9 c5tre4 ,engli%1 #ag? c5tury4 ,l5g? #b feet #a in*1 wid? #a foot #e in*es4 ,pres5t$ by ! ,rev4 ,r4 ,brooke4 #hgf4 '#fd4 ,cu%ion-cov]1 :ite l95 embroid]$ ) runn+ patt]n & scroll ornam5t1 yell[ silk2 ciph] 9 c5tre4 ,engli%1 #ag? c5tury4 ,l5g? #a foot #h in*es1 wid? #a foot #c in*es4 ,pres5t$ by ! ,rev4 ,r4 ,brooke4 #hgg4 '#fd4 ,cu%ion-cov]1 :ite l95 embroid]$ ) runn+ patt]n & scroll ornam5t1 yell[ silk2 ciph] 9 c5tre4 ,engli%1 #ag? c5tury4 ,l5g? #a foot #e in*es1 wid? #a foot #b in*es4 ,pres5t$ by ! ,rev4 ,r4 ,brooke4 #hgh4 '#fd4 ,piece ( ,brocade1 :ite silk & gold 9 n>r[ /ripes4 ,fr5* 7871 #ah? c5tury4 ,l5g? #aj feet #d in*es1 wid? #b feet #b in*es4 ,pres5t$ by ! ,rev4 ,r4 ,brooke4 #hgi4 '#fd4 ,table-cov]1 crimson ,g5oa velvet ) broad bord] ( silv] gimp1 ,indian 7,delhi7 "w4 ,l5g? #e feet #b in*es1 wid? #e feet #b in*es4 ,pres5t$ by ! ,rev4 ,r4 ,brooke4 #hhj4 '#fd4 ,saddle-clo?1 d>k blue ,g5oa velvet1 ornam5t$ ) broad b&s ( fl[]$ gold lace2 trapp+s = ! horse ( ,h4 ,osbalde/on1 ,esq41 ,high ,%]iff ( ,york%ire1 ,a4,d4 #aggb-c4 ,l5g? #d feet #e in*es1 wid? #a foot #h in*es4 ,pres5t$ by ! ,rev4 ,r4 ,brooke4 #hha1 #hha;,a4 '#fd4 ,pair ( ,hol/]s = ,pi/ols1 d>k blue ,g5oa velvet1 ornam5t$ ) broad b&s ( fl[]$ gold lace2 trapp+s = ! horse ( ,h4 ,osbalde/on1 ,esq41 ,high ,%]iff ( ,york%ire1 ,a4,d4 #aggb-c4 ,l5g? #a foot #i in*es1 wid? #a foot #f in*es4 ,pres5t$ by ! ,rev4 ,r4 ,brooke4 #hhb4 '#fd4 ,saddle-clo?1 sc>let clo? ) bord] ( gold lace1 us$ by ! att5dants ( ! ,high ,%]iff ( ,york%ire1 ,a4,d4 #aggb-c4 ,l5g? #c feet #h in*es1 wid? #a foot #f in*es4 ,pres5t$ by ! ,rev4 ,r4 ,brooke4 #hhc4 '#fd4 ,saddle-clo?1 sc>let clo? ) bord] ( gold lace1 us$ by ! att5dants ( ! ,high ,%]iff ( ,york%ire1 ,a4,d4 #aggb-c4 ,l5g? #c feet #aj in*es1 wid? #a foot #f in*es4 ,pres5t$ by ! ,rev4 ,r4 ,brooke4 #hhd4 '#fd4 ,saddle-clo?1 sc>let clo?1 ) bord] ( gold lace1 us$ by ! att5dants ( ! ,high ,%]iff ( ,york%ire1 ,a4,d4 #aggb-c4 ,l5g? #c feet #aj in*es1 wid? #a foot #f in*es4 ,pres5t$ by ! ,rev4 ,r4 ,brooke4 #hhe4 '#fd4 ,pair ( ,pi/ol ,hol/]s1 sc>let clo? bord]$ ) gold lace1 us$ by ! att5dants ( ! ,high ,%]iff ( ,york%ire1 ,a4,d4 #aggb-c4 ,l5g? #ab in*es4 ,pres5t$ by ! ,rev4 ,r4 ,brooke4 #hhf1 #hhf;,a4 '#fd4 ,pair ( ,pi/ol ,hol/]s1 sc>let clo? bord]$ ) gold lace1 us$ by ! att5dants ( ! ,high ,%]iff ( ,york%ire1 ,a4,d4 #aggb-c4 ,l5g? #ab in*es4 ,pres5t$ by ! ,rev4 ,r4 ,brooke4 #hhg1 #hhg;,a4 '#fd4 ,pair ( ,pi/ol ,hol/]s1 sc>let clo? bord]$ ) gold lace1 us$ by ! att5dants ( ! ,high ,%]iff ( ,york%ire1 ,a4,d4 #aggb-c4 ,l5g? #ab in*es4 ,pres5t$ by ! ,rev4 ,r4 ,brooke4 #hhh4 '#fd4 ,dress ,silk ,brocade1 :ite gr\nd ) patt]n ( fl[]s 9 v>i\s col\rs4 ,fr5*7871 e>ly #ah? c5tury4 ,l5g? #d feet #g in*es1 wid? #h feet #d in*es4 ,pres5t$ by ! ,rev4 ,r4 ,brooke4 #hhi4 '#fd4 ,lady's ,%oe1 p9k prunella1 ) high heel4 ,engli%1 date ab\t #agfe4 ,l5g? #i in*es4 ,pres5t$ by ! ,rev4 ,r4 ,brooke4 #hij '#fd4 ,gr5adi]'s ,cap1 sc>let & :ite clo? & crimson velvet1 ) silv] & gold embroid]y1 & gold spangles4 ,engli%1 date ab\t #aggj4 ,height #ad in*es4 ,pres5t$ by ! ,rev4 ,r4 ,brooke4 #hia4 '#fd4 ,lady's ,workbag1 made f ! b>k ( a tree1 bord]$ ) gre5 & :ite4 ,engli%7871 #ah? c5tury4 ,l5g? #b feet1 wid? #a foot #a in*4 ,pres5t$ by ! ,rev4 ,r4 ,brooke4 #hib4 '#fd4 ,piece ( ,silk ,embroid]y 9 frame1 :ite sat9 gr\nd1 on :i* are work$ 9 high relief ,k+ ,ahasu]us1 ,que5 ,e/h]1 v>i\s animals1 fruits1 & o!r objects1 9 col\r$ silk & gold cord4 ,engli%1 e>ly #ah? c5tury4 ,height #a foot #a in*1 wid? #a foot #g in*es4 ,pres5t$ by ! ,rev4 ,r4 ,brooke4 #hic4 '#fd4 ,wai/coat1 :ite ribb$ silk embroid]$ ) fl[]s 9 v>i\s col\rs1 silv] cord1 & spangles4 ,engli%1 date ab\t #aggj4 ,l5g? #b feet #c in*es4 ,pres5t$ by ! ,rev4 ,r4 ,brooke4 #hid4 '#fd4 ,wai/coat1 crimson sat91 ) floral brocade bord] 9 v>i\s col\rs4 ,engli%1 date ab\t #aggj4 ,l5g? #b feet #g in*es4 ,pres5t$ by ! ,rev4 ,r4 ,brooke4 #hie4 '#fd4 ,wai/coat1 blue & :ite /rip$ silk brocade ) fl[] spot patt]n4 ,engli%1 date ab\t #aggj4 ,l5g? #b feet #b in*es4 ,pres5t$ by ! ,rev4 ,r4 ,brooke4 #hif4 '#fd4 ,skirt ( a ,lady's ,dress1 :ite silk pr9t$ ) fl[]s 9 v>i\s col\rs4 ,fr5*7871 #ah? c5tury4 ,height #c feet #f in*es1 wid? #i feet #h in*es4 ,pres5t$ by ! ,rev4 ,r4 ,brooke4 #hig4 '#fd4 ,piece ( ,silk1 :ite silk pr9t$ ) fl[]s 9 v>i\s col\rs4 ,fr5*7871 #ah? c5tury4 ,height #c feet1 wid? #b feet4 ,pres5t$ by ! ,rev4 ,r4 ,brooke4 #hih4 '#fd4 ,k]*ief1 yell[ silk gauze ) floral patt]n1 bord] ( p9k & yell[ silk lace4 ,fr5*7871 #ah? c5tury4 ,l5g? #d feet #c in*es1 wid? #c feet4 ,pres5t$ by ! ,rev4 ,r4 ,brooke4 #hii4 '#fd4 ,trimm+ ( a ,dress1 *ocolate silk gauze1 embroid]$ ) fl[]s 9 v>i\s col\rs4 ,engli%1 #ah? c5tury4 ,l5g? #e feet1 wid? #ab in*es4 ,pres5t$ by ! ,rev4 ,r4 ,brooke4 #ijj4 '#fd4 ,*ri/5+ ,suit1 viz4 cap1 bib1 mitt5s1 & dress 79 two pieces71 old po9t lace4 ,flemi%7871 #ah? c5tury2 worn 9 #aggc4 ,l5g? ( dress #a foot #aa in*es1 wid? #a foot #c in*es4 ,pres5t$ by ! ,rev4 ,r4 ,brooke4 #iai4 '#fd4 ,reticule1 silk embroid]y ( v>i\s col\rs1 ) yell[ sat9 neck4 ,engli%1 #ah? c5tury4 ,l5g? #i in*es1 wid? #f in*es4 ,pres5t$ by ! ,rev4 ,r4 ,brooke4 #icb4 '#fd4 ,sword-,belt1 black silk web2 "p ( a ,volunte] uni=m4 ,engli%1 e>ly pres5t c5tury4 ,l5g? #c feet #e in*es4 ,pres5t$ by ! ,rev4 ,r4 ,brooke4 #icc4 '#fd4 ,sword-belt1 pale blue silk web1 ) /eel clasps2 "p ( a ,volunte] uni=m4 ,engli%1 e>ly #ah? c5tury4 ,l5g? #c feet #h in*es4 ,pres5t$ by ! ,rev4 ,r4 ,brooke4 #icd4 '#fd4 ,sword-belt1 black lea!r1 gilt metal m\nts2 "p ( a ,volunte] uni=m4 ,engli%1 #ah? c5tury4 ,l5g? #b feet #aa in*es4 ,pres5t$ by ! ,rev4 ,r4 ,brooke4 #ice4 '#fd4 ,badge = a ,cap ,front1 cr[n1 ciph]1 & motto 9 /eel on sc>let clo?2 "p ( a ,volunte] uni=m4 ,engli%1 #ah? c5tury4 ,height #d- in*es1 wid? #e in*es4 ,pres5t$ by ! ,rev4 ,r4 ,brooke4 #iff4 '#fd4 ,bag1 or ,purse1 l9ks ( silv] filagree4 ,mod]n ,g5oese4 ,l5g? #e in*es4 ,pres5t$ by ! ,rev4 ,r4 ,brooke4 #igh4 '#fd4 ,scre51 :ite silk gauze pa9t$ ) fl[]s & birds ) a vase 9 c5tre4 ,mod]n ,*9ese4 ,l5g? #ab feet #h in*es1 height #b feet #f in*es4 ,pres5t$ by ! ,rev4 ,r4 ,brooke4 #igi4 '#fd4 ,scre51 :ite silk gauze1 pa9t$ ) fl[]-sprigs1 insects1 & a basket hang+ f a tree4 ,mod]n ,*9ese4 ,l5g? #ab feet #aj in*es1 wid? #b feet #e in*es4 ,pres5t$ by ! ,rev4 ,r4 ,brooke4 #ihj4 '#fd4 ,scre51 :ite silk gauze1 pa9t$ ) fl[]s & birds4 ,mod]n ,*9ese4 ,height #c feet #f in*es1 wid? #d feet #h in*es4 ,pres5t$ by ! ,rev4 ,r4 ,brooke4 #iha4 '#fd4 ,piece ( ,embroid]y1 :ite sat9 gr\nd ) patt]n ( leaves & fl[]s highly reliev$ 9 col\r$ silks & gold cord4 ,engli%1 #ah? c5tury4 ,l5g? #a foot #aj in*es1 wid? #a foot #a in*es4 ,pres5t$ by ! ,rev4 ,r4 ,brooke4 #ihb1 #ihb;,d4 '#fd4 ,five ,fun]al ,bann]s1 silk1 emblazon$ ) armorial %ields4 ,engli%1 #ah? c5tury4 ,l5g? #a foot #i- in*es1 wid? #a foot #d- in*es4 ,pres5t$ by ! ,rev4 ,r4 ,brooke4 #ihc4 '#fd4 ,fun]al ,bann]1 calico1 emblazon$ ) armorial %ields4 ,engli%1 #ah? c5tury4 ,l5g? #a foot #b in*es1 wid? #a foot #d in*es4 ,pres5t$ by ! ,rev4 ,r4 ,brooke4 #ihc;,a4 '#fd4 ,fun]al ,bann]1 calico4 ,engli%1 #ah? c5tury4 ,l5g? #a foot #b in*es1 wid? #a foot #a in*4 ,pres5t$ by ! ,rev4 ,r4 ,brooke4 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration ,,l5t ,,by ,,h] ,,maje/y ,,& ,,! ,,bo>d ,,( ,,works4 ,tape/ry2 gr\nd crimson1 diap]$ ) foliage2 design1 )9 a broad ar*1 a :ite panel1 figur$ ) ,diana1 & ab\t h] fl[]s1 birds1 & animals1 dead & alive4 ,at ! "r corn]1 on ! l[] hem1 is inscrib$1 8,neilson1 ex4 #aghf40 ,fr5*1 f ! ,gobel9 factory4 ,diana holds by a long blue ribbon a greyh\nd2 bel[1 are o!r two h\nds & two little nak$ boys1 ( :om "o is ab\t to d>t an arr[2 ! o!r1 to %oot "o f a b[ at ,diana h]self1 :o1 ) h] %ad[ ca/ ^u a cl\d1 is hold+ h] fav\rite dog by its blue /r+3 at h] feet lie h] own b[ & arr[s4 ,?is piece is graci\sly l5t by ,h] ,maje/y1 & is a fav\rable specim5 ( ! ,gobel9s royal manufactory1 ov] :i* ! ,neilsons1 fa!r & son1 presid$1 f ,a4,d4 #agdi till #aghh4 ,mo/ likely ?is piece 0 wr\ght by ! eld] ,neilson1 :o1 z well z 8 son1 work$ ) ! 8basse lisse10 or l[ horizontal frame1 z di/+ui%$ f ! 8haute lisse10 or high v]tical "o4 ,tape/ry ,wall-hang+2 design1 a l&scape ) ! figure ( a man4 ,fr5*1 #ag? c5tury4 ,! l&scape is some:at wild1 b nicely r5d]$4 ,9 ! =egr\nd1 sitt+ on a /one1 we h a y\? ) bo? 8 h&s ^u a classic-%ap$ vase1 /&+ betwe5 8 feet4 ,9 ! backgr\nd are se5 a few goats2 & fur!r on /ill1 a build+ ) pill>s1 v likely a well4 ,?is fancy piece is surr\nd$ by a bord] figur$ ) ornam5tation1 & ?\gh x be small & made to fit "s panel 9 a room1 is a good specim5 ( its "t1 & seems to h come f ! same h&s t design$ & wr\ght ! ,diog5es pieces4 ,tape/ry2 design1 )9 a crimson bord] ornam5t$1 9 :ite1 ) scroll-"w aft] a classic "*1 a l>ge my?ologic1 p]haps ,bac*anal subject4 ,fr5*1 #ag? c5tury4 ,upheld by pila/]s & columns wrea!d ) bran*es ( ! v9e1 we see a wide entablature col\r$ crimson & blue1 figur$ ) tripods1 vases1 & o!r fanciful arabesque ornam5tation1 & amid ^!1 hea!n gods & goddesses1 c5taurs1 birds1 & gr\ps ( satyrs4 ,bel[1 & betwe5 ! pila/]s & columns1 a male figure is play+ ! d\ble pipe1 wom5 are c>ry+ fruits 9 di%es1 ano!r is danc+1 & "s high p]sonages fea/+ at a table1 ) "s m5 look+ on4 ,l[]mo/ ( all is ano!r sc5e1 9 :i* we h little nak$ boys1 satyrs c>ry+ grapes1 & an ass lad5 ) !m1 & o!r satyrs p\r+ into vases ! r$ w9e :i* !y are gett+ f a f\nta9 brim full ( x4 ,a bord] ( a crimson gr\nd figur$ 9 places ) full-fac$ heads1 & all ov] ) small figures1 ! drap]ies ( :i* are %ad$ 9 gold n[ q black1 & arabesques aft] a classic =m1 goes r\nd ! :ole piece1 :i* is fell[ to ano!r %[+ ! lab\rs ( ,h]cules1 9 ?is collection4 ,9 ! tape/ry be=e u1 all ! subjects are s ,bac*analian t we mu/ suppose t ! design] meant to set =? ! ways ( ! god ( w9e4 ,l ! draw+ 9 ! ,h]cules piece1 ! draw+ "h is good2 b ! piece itself is 9 a some:at bad condition4 ,tape/ry ,wall-hang+2 subject1 ! lab\rs ( ,h]cules4 ,flemi%1 late #ag? c5tury4 #ba feet #f in*es by #af feet4 ,?is l>ge piece is divid$ into ?ree broad horizontal b&s2 on ! fir/ ( ^!1 ^u a d>k blue gr\nd1 amid arabesques & mon/]s aft] classic models1 are obs]vable ! infant ,h]cules /rangl+ ! two s]p5ts2 9 ! middle1 a female hold+ two ropes1 & ab\t h] little boys c>ry+ tall re$s1 :i* at top exp& into a cup full ( fire1 z %e /&s upright ^u a p$e/al ov] a doorway1 9 ! tympanum ( :i*1 )9 a r\nd holl[1 is ! bu/ ( a man hav+ a w9e-jug on "o side1 & a di% fill$ ) fire on ! o!r2 /ill fur!r to ! "r1 !re is1 )9 an oval1 a *ild read+ at a ?ree-legg$ desk1 & seat$ on ! b5d+ b\gh ( a tree1 at ! foot ( :i* is a book1 & a comic mask4 ,on ! second b&1 ! gr\nd ( :i* is light blue1 )9 ! doorway1 col\r$ gre51 /&s ,h]cules cross-legg$1 be>+ 9 8 "r h& 8 club1 & ) ! left uphold+ ! lion-sk9 mantle4 ,to ! "r1 ,h]cules is se5 wre/l+2 next1 ,h]cules fight+ ! ,nemean lion ) 8 club2 & !n ! h]o %oot+ ) 8 b[ & arr[s ! ,/ymphalian birds1 half human 9 _! %ape3 to ! left1 ,h]cules is beheld /rangl+ ) 8 own h&s ! ,nemean lion2 !n he is se5 ) ?is dead bea/ ^u 8 %\ld]s z he c>ries x to ,eury/heus2 & la/ly1 he is %[n load$ ) a blue globe1 m>k$ ) ! signs ( ! zodiac1 ^u 8 back4 ,on ! ?ird b&1 :i* is crimson1 we f9d ,h]cules1 lead+ by a *a9 ! _m-head$ ,c]b]us f ! l[] _w1 hav+ along ) him ,a!na1 :o is se5 ) clasp$ h&s1 & ,!seus1 :o is clad 9 arm\r ) a rev]s$ d>t 9 8 h&2 9 front lies a dead man4 ,! middle ( ?is b& is fill$ 9 ) ar*itectural scroll-"w1 ^u :i* are seat$ two half-bu/ w+$ figures1 "o male1 ! o!r female1 & hang+ betwe5 !m a %ield figur$ ) ! rape ( ,europa4 ,aft] ?is c5tral piece we come to ! sc5e on ! j\rney into exile ( ,h]cules & 8 wife ,deianira3 ! c5taur ,nessus is c>ry+ ! lady 9 8 arms ov] ! riv] ,ev5us1 & :ile do+ s insults h]1 :]eupon ,h]cules lets fly an arr[1 on he>+ 8 wife's screams1 & %oots ,nessus to ! he>t4 ,! :ole is enclos$ )9 a bord] ( a crimson gr\nd1 figur$ ) arabesques & heads ( a classic "*4 ,! ?ird b& has a h]mes or t]m9al po/ at ea* end2 &1 curi\sly en\gh1 9 ! top b&1 & re/+ on ! foliations1 are f\r ne/s ( ! pelican1 bill+ its brea/ & fe$+ its "y ones ) its blood2 besides ?is we see 9 places two lions rampant1 & regul>ly langu$ gules1 be+ c>ess$ by a sort ( h>py3 all ( :i* w\ld lead u to ?9k t 9 ! bird & ! animals we h ! armorial *>ge ^u ! %ield1 & its support]s1 ( ! noble1 b n[ unkn[n1 own] = :om ?is piece ( tape/ry 0 orig9ally wr\ght4 ,its fell[-piece1 figur$ n s mu* ) ! triumphs z ! fe/ive joys ( ,bac*us1 is 9 ?is collection4 ,tape/ry ,wall-hang+2 gr\nd1 :ite2 subject1 ! "y ,bac*us on a cl\d1 ) a cup ( w9e 9 "o h&1 & ! ?yrsus-/aff 9 ! o!r2 & all ab\t1 8 symbols4 ,fr5*1 or ,gobel91 #ah? c5tury4 ,)9 a r broad panell$ ar*1 w9e-r$ 9 its tone1 is figur$ ! "y ,bac*us ) a c\ple ( ?yrsus-/aves1 cross$ saltire-wise above him3 bel[1 is a f\nta9 ) an animal's face1 f ! m\? ( :i* runs r$ w9e1 & by x two little satyrs play+ ) tig]s1 into ^: op5 maws !y are squeez+ ! juice ( ! purple grape4 ,)9 a tablet 9 ! high] "p are figur$ two lett]s ,m4 ,m4 seem+ly ! ciph]s ( ! individual = :om ?is piece 0 wov54 ,tape/ry ,wall-hang+2 gr\nd1 :ite2 subject1 ,v5us surr\nd$ by h] emblems4 ,fr5*1 or ,gobel91 #ah? c5tury4 ,?is is a fell[-piece to ! =ego+ "o1 & arrang$ 9 ! same mann]4 ,rid+ on a cl\d1 ,v5us holds a small d>t1 & leans ^u a swan1 ) a ,cupid by h] feet4 ,l ! o!r piece1 x has ! ciph] ,m4 ,m4 ,tape/ry ,wall-hang+2 gr\nd1 mo/ly :ite2 subject1 %eph]ds & %eph]desses sacrific+ to ,pan4 ,fr5*1 or ,gobel91 #ah? c5tury4 ,?is l>ge f9e piece has a v *e]ful tone1 & ! backgr\nd is s manag$ z to be v lightsome 9 its skies1 & hills1 & wat]4 ,9 _m p>ts ( ! co/umes1 & ! vegetation1 ! col\r+ is w>m )\t be+ dauby or g>i%4 ,tape/ry ,wall-hang+2 subject1 ,mel*iz$ek br++ bread & w9e to ,abram aft] 8 victory4 ,flemi%1 late #ag? c5tury4 ,on a tablet at ! top ( ! piece is ?is inscription3--8,sodom expugnat ,lot capitur4 ,abram illum recepit4 ,rex ,mel*iz$ek victori ,abram (f]t panem et v9um40 ,z ! read] w easily br+ to m9d1 ! subject z well z ! inscription are borr[$ f ! f\rte5? *apt] ( ,g5esis4 ,suppos+ t ,sodom1 aft] ! ov]?r[ by ,abram's night attack ( ! f\r k+s1 _h be5 retak51 & 8 nephew ,lot & 8 sub/ance fre$ f ! h&s ( ! f\r conqu]$ pr9ces1 ! arti/ has *os5 t po9t ( "t 9 ! /ory1 :5 ,mel*iz$ek1 ! ,k+ ( ,salem & ! ,prie/ ( ! ,mo/ ,high1 w5t out to meet ,abram z he 0 com+ f ! slaught]2 & br++ =? bread & w9e1 bless$ him4 ,! two pr9cipal p]sonages occupy ! c5tre ( ! =egr\nd4 ,cr[n$ z a k+ & we>+ a co/ly sword1 ,mel*iz$ek comes =? ) out/ret*$ "r h& to welcome ,abram1 f :om he is sep>at$ by a highly ornam5t$ tall vase full ( w9e4 ,beh9d ?is ,k+ ( ,salem "o ( 8 own s]v+ m51 :o c>ries on 8 %\ld]s a basket full ( food1 is com+ d[n ! wide /aircase f :i* 8 royal ma/] has j issu$1 :ile outside a doorway1 "u an upp] portico 9 ! same palace1 /& two m5 gaz+ on ! sc5e bel[ !m4 ,on ! o!r side ( ! vase1 ,abram1 hold+ a long /aff 9 8 "r h&1 is /epp+ =w>ds t[>d ,mel*iz$ek1 :om he salutes ) 8 l[]$ left h&1 & beh9d him a second s]vant ( ,mel*iz$ek has j set ^u ! gr\nd a l>ge hamp] full ( flat loaves ( bread4 ,a little high] 9 ! piece1 & some:at to ! left ( ?is dome/ic1 a gr\p ( soldi]s are qu5*+ _! ?ir/ ga!r$ ab\t an op5 tun ( w9e1 :i* !y dr9k out ( a wide b[l2 ha/5+ t[>ds ! same spot1 z if f an ar*way1 fl[s a /ream ( o!r milit>y m54 ,amid ! f>-(f l&scape may be se5 bann]s fly+1 & b5ea? !m all ! turmoils ( a battle rag+ at its height4 ,to ! "r1 ! /&>d-be>]s & "s ( ! vanqui%$ are se5 9 headlong flight4 ,! deep gold5-gr\nd$ bord] is p>t$ at bottom by classic mon/r\s h]m1 male & female1 ea* we>+ a pair ( w+s by its e>s4 ,! spaces betwe5 ^! grotesques are fill$ 9 ) female figures1 mo/ly symboliz+ vices4 8,viol5tia0 is figur$ by a y\?ful woman1 :o1 ) a %ea!d sword by h] side1 is driv+ be=e h] a captive "y man1 :om %e holds by ! cords :i* tie 8 h&s beh9d him1 & :om %e hurries onw>ds by ! bl[s f a ?ick /aff t %e wields 9 h] uplift$ "r h&4 8,depr$atio10 ) h] f+]s end+ at _! tips 9 long %>p rav5\s nails1 is rid+ a/ride a lion4 8,gratitudo0 is a g5tle "y maid51 :o is seat$ ) a bird 9 h] lap1 a /ork1 :i* %e seems to be fondl+4 8,pugna10 or brawl+1 is %[n by two middle-ag$ wom5 ( ! l[] class4 ,) _! di%evell$ hair hang+ all ab\t _! %\ld]s1 !y are 9 ! height ( a fight1 & ! woman ) a bun* ( keys hang+ f h] girdle has ov]come ! o!r1 & is tugg+ at "o ( h] long locks4 8,tyrannis0 is an old haggi% female ) dog-l feet1 & %e br&i%es a sword2 almo/ e "o ( ! o!r wom5 on ! bord] has1 curi\sly en\gh1 "o foot resembl+ t ( an animal4 ,9 sev]al p>ts ( ! composition besides ! bord]1 9 ! w>p & = %ad+1 gold5 ?read has be5 wov5 91 b s scantily employ$1 & ! gold itself ( su* a debas$ bad quality1 t ! metal f be+ t>ni%$ to q a dull black tone is h>dly disc]nible4 ,! co/ume1 l ! sc5]y & build+s1 has no?+ ( an ori5tal "* ab\t x1 b is fa%ion$ aft] an imag9$ classic model4 ,tape/ry ,wall-hang+2 subject1 ! ,progress ( ,av>ice4 ,flemi%1 middle ( ! #ag? c5tury4 ,up above )9 ! bord] ( ?is l>ge piece is a tablet be>+ ?is inscription3-- 8,semp] eget siti5s m$iis ceu ,tantalus undis ,int] anhelatas semp] av>us opes40 ,beg9n+ at ! top left h& ( ! subject repres5t$1 we see a murky sort ( vap\r /reak$ by a fla% ( r$ lightn+4 ,amid ?is br[ni% d>kness1 peopl$ ) horrid little phantoms & small fanta/ic sprites1 we discov] a dim9utive figure ( ,dea? wield+ a long-h&l$ curi\sly-head$ scy!4 ,j bel[ is a man po9t+ ) 8 "r h& up to ,dea?1 & ) 8 left h& to a little h>py be=e him2 beh9d him /&s a figure ) two heads1 "o a woman's1 ! o!r a man's1 set toge!r ,januswise4 ,l[] d[n1 & ( a mu* l>g] size1 are ?ree male figures1 "o a y\? well clad1 7 x n = 8 ragg$ pantaloons1 ! next an old man we>+ s&als & be>+ 9 8 "r h& :at looks l a reliqu>y glaz$ & col\r$ r$1 :ile 9 8 left he holds two unfold$ scrolls1 ! upp] "o ( :i* is illum9at$ ) a build+ l a ca/le1 by ! side ( :i* /&s a man1 ov] ^: head is ! tau or ,t1 ) a bell hang+ "u x--! symbols ( ,/4 ,an?ony ( ,egypt4 ,beside ! la/ p]sonage /&s ! figure ( a monk-l =m1 clasp+ 9 bo? h&s a pair ( beads or ros>y4 ,next we h1 half lean+ f out h] seat plac$ ^u a c>1 & b5d+ ov] an op5 *e/1 into :i* %e is dropp+ gold5 pieces ( money f h] claw-l f+]s1 a female =m ) hide\s w+s & vulture feet1 su* z h>pies h4 ,! *>iot drawn by a wyv]n-l animal1 ) its fi]y long tongue ?ru/ out1 has knock$ d[n an eld]ly man1 :o1 f ! tonsure on 8 grey head1 w\ld seem to be a prie/1 & its :eel is go+ to cru% a y\? ^u ! gr\nd1 :ile ! wyv]n's out/ret*$ claws are ab\t to gripe a gha/ly cut-(f head4 ,hang+ on ! m\ld+s ( ?is c> are empty money-bags1 crumpl$-up de$s1 & a wide-op5 acc\nt book4 ,alongside ( ?is fi5di% hag trips a flaunt+ c\rti]2 be=e h] rides ,midas ) ass's e>s to 8 bloat$ face1 unkempt locks fall+ d[n its sides1 a royal diadem ^u 8 head1 & a )]$ bran* 9 8 h&2 &1 z if b\nd to h] *>iot1 walks a k+1 hav+ ) him 8 que54 ,be=e1 b on "o side1 paces ano!r cr[n$ pr9ce on horseback1 :ile full 9 front rides a ?ird k+ c>ry+ 9 8 arms a nak$ woman4 ,la/ ( all & head+1 z x 71 ?is progress ( ,av>ice1 sits a female figure sidewise on a horse1 :i* %e has j re9$ up4 ,9 h] "r h& %e be>s a r$ /&>d emblazon$ ) a monkey on all f\rs1 %>p claw$1 & some?+ :i* may be meant = gold pieces4 ,fly+ d[n f ! skies comes an angel1 :o1 ) 8 out/ret*$ "r h&1 seems to /ay ! m>* ( ! frightful woman 9 ! *>iot ) h] k+ly r\t1 & =bid its onw>d progress4 ,9 ! f>-(f l&scape we discov] a gr\p ( soldi]s1 ne> :om lies /ret*$ out on ! gr\nd a dead body1 ^u :i* an angel gazes4 ,f> to ! "r we f9d an op5 build+1 int5d$1 may be1 = a *ur*2 ne> x are two milit>y m5 9 arm\r2 inside1 a ?ird seems hold+ out 8 h& z if he 7 leav+ 8 (f]+s on ! alt> !re4 ,outside1 & n f> f ?is same build+1 may be se5 o!r f\r m51 two ( !m pilgrims1 ( :om "o kneel+ be=e ano!r looks z if he 7 mak+ 8 confession4 ,! broad bord] to ?is l>ge piece is design$ ) elaborate c>e4 ,at ea* ( ! two l[] corn]s x is figur$ ) ! "o same subject1 :i* consi/s 9 a gr\p ( ?ree nak$ w+$ boys or angels2 ( ^! "o holds a %ort-/emm$ cup or *alice1 f out ( :i* rises a ho/ or l>ge r\nd alt> bread1 %[+ m>k$ on x our ,"l hang+ ^u ! cross1 betwe5 ! ,b4 ,v4 ,m>y & ,/4 ,john ,evangeli/2 a second angel kneel+ has 9 8 h&s an uplift$ cr[n ( ?orns1 :ile ly+ beh9d him are two books2 & ! ?ird angel %[s u a tablet writt5 ) ! ,greek lett]s 4 ,all ! re/ ( ?is frame-"w is fill$ 9 ) fl[]s1 fruits1 birds1 & snakes4 ,( ! fl[]s ! mo/ frequ5t are ! fritill>y1 ! rose1 ! lily1 ! am>yllis1 poppies1 :ite campanulas1 l>ge daisies1 fleurs-de-lis1 & corn-fl[]s4 ,among ! fruits we see ! pomegranate1 ( :i* "s are split1 pe>s1 ,indian corn1 apples1 plums1 & figs4 ,! birds are mo/ly p>rots1 woodpeck]s1 /orks1 cocks1 doves1 & "s o!r birds ( ! small] k9ds4 ,9 places may be discov]$ a knot ( snakes coil$ ab\t a g>l& made ( yell[ leaves4 ,! allegory ( ! piece is read ) ease4 ,! progress ( ,av>ice is head$ by ,wick$ness1 :o c>ries al(t h] blood-/a9$ flag1 emblazon$ ) ! monkey1 ! emblem ( moral ugl9ess & mis*ief4 ,h>d ^u ! heels ( ,wick$ness comes a le*]\s pot5tate1 ! type ( immorality4 ,! cr[n$ heads1 :e!r m\nt$ or on foot1 t come next h = _! bro!r-companion ,midas1 ! emblem ( ! s5sual mis]'s gre$ ( gold1 to rem9d u h[ k+s1 nay que5s too1 sometimes ?ir/ = _! subjects' weal? to gratify _! evil wi%es2 & ! gay "y man beh9d !m1 com+ by ! *>iot's side1 p]sonates ^? c\rti]s :o are reckless ( :at !y d to help _! royal ma/]s 9 _! love = lucre4 ,next we are told :at h>py-av>ice w n wav] to execute :ile l$ on by wick$ sov]eigns4 ,look at ^? ab\t & b5ea? h] *>iot3 f !m we le>n t %e begg>s ! nobility1 & leaves !m to walk ?r\gh ! _w 9 rags2 %e de/roys *ur*es1 &1 :5 lack+ o!r means = h] fell purpose1 w %$ innoc5t blood & behead h] oppon5ts4 ,b "h bel[1 ,av>ice & ^? :o lead h] on1 ?\gh !y be k+s & que5s1 w h _! day3 ,"t w br+ !m to a /&4 ,! rifl$ alt> w be ornam5t$ aga91 ! rites ( wor%ip re/or$1 & hospitals reop5$4 ,:ile an angel f heav5 /ops ! progress ( ,av>ice1 high up 9 ! ea/]n sky a ?und]-/orm is ga!r+2 & on e>? a man1 :il/ po9t+ ) "o h& to grim ,dea?1 arm$ ) 8 scy!1 amid a cl\d ( loa?some w+$ ?+s flitt+ ar\nd him1 ) ! o!r t same p]son w>ns a h>py t h] si/] h>py ,av>ice w soon be ov]tak52 & j z ! hea!n ,januslike figure close by--emblem ( ! pa/1 & ( a c]ta9 future--he also tells h] ( t j retribution :i*1 by ! h&s ( ,dea? & 9 ano!r _w1 w be dealt out to h]self & all ?is miscreant company4 ,x w\ld seem t ?is piece 0 wr\ght to /igmatize ! memory ( "s ( ^? _m wanton acts ( spoliation p]petrat$ 9 ,france & ,belgium dur+ ! latt] ye>s ( ! #af? & ! beg9n+ ( ! #ag? c5turies4 ,p]haps ! clue to ! hi/ory & import ( ?is f9e specim5 ( ! ,flemi% loom may be f\nd all ab\t ! p]son ( t old man1 :o c>ries 9 "o h& a reliqu>y s conspicu\sly pa9t$ r$1 & 9 ! o!r two p>*m5t scrolls1 ^u "o ( :i* we f9d a sort ( sket* ( "s p>ticul> spot1 ) an important edifice on x4 ,by its size & look x seems to be "s great hospital1 & f ! pres5ce !re ( a man hav+ above 8 head ! lett] tau or ,t & a bell hang+ to x1 we are giv5 to und]/& t ?is build+ belong$ to "s bro!rhood ( ,/4 ,an?ony1 9 ! s]vice ( ! sick2 & t its suff]+ inmates 7 pr9cipally ^? afflict$ ) erysipelas1 a disease !n1 & ev5 yet1 call$ abroad ,/4 ,an?ony's fire1 once s pe/il5tial t x (t5 swept away ?\s&s ev]y:]e4 ,ne> ,vi5ne1 9 ! ,s\? ( ,france1 /ood a ri*ly-end[$ hospital1 f\nd$ ,a4,d4 #ajie1 *iefly = ^? suff]+ "u ?is direful malady4 ,?is h\se belong$ to & 0 adm9i/]$ by ,canons ,regul> ( ,/4 ,an?ony4 ,! t[n :]e x /ood 0 ,didi]-la-,mo!1 bett] kn[n z ,b\rg ,s4 ,anto9e4 ,dur+ ! tr\bl$ times 9 ,france ?is great weal?y hospital1 "h fitly repres5t$ l a t[n ( itself1 by ^? l(ty walls & t tall wide gateway1 _h be5 plund]$3 h5ce1 "o ( its bro!rs is %[n upbraid+ ,av>ice = h] evil do+s1 ( :i* ^? sad tok5s ( moneyless purses1 well-se>*$ r5t-books1 & ransack$ title-de$s are /ill dangl+ on h] c>4 ,if n all1 mo/1 at lea/1 ( ! p]sons "h figur$ are meant1 z is probable1 to be *>act]iz$ z ! lik5esses ( ! v individual victims & ! victimiz]s portray$ ^u ?is tape/ry4 ,tape/ry ,wall-hang+2 subject1 ,abraham's upp] s]vant meet+ ,rebecca at ! spr+ ( wat]4 ,flemi%1 late #ag? c5tury4 ,at top1 9 ! middle ( ! broad bord]1 a tablet gives u ! foll[+ inscription3--,cumque p]v5isset 7s]vus87 ad fontem et sibi 7aquam87 petiisset et ,batuelis filia ,rebecca ex hydria potum d$isset et camelis hau/is et filio ,abrahe eam =e conjugem oraculo cognovit4 ,9 ! tw5ty-f\r? *apt] ( ,g5esis we read h[ ,abraham 9 8 old age s5t 8 elde/ s]vant unto 8 own c\ntry & k9dr$1 !nce to br+ back a wife = 8 son ,isaac2 & h[ t man1 at 8 ma/]'s behe/1 imm$iately took t5 camels1 c>ry+ some?+ ( all 8 "l's goods ) him1 & w5t on to ,mesopotamia1 to ! city ( ,nahor2 & h[1 :5 he _h rea*$ t place1 & _h made a halt )\t ! t[n ne> a well ( wat]1 9 ! ev5+1 at ! "t t wom5 7 wont to come out to draw wat]1 he bes\ght ,heav5 t ! maid to :om he %\ld say1 8,let d[n ?y pit*]1 ,i pray !e1 t ,i may dr9k1 & %e %all say1 ,dr9k1 & ,i w give ?y camels dr9k also--let ! same be %e t ,?\ ha/ appo9t$ = ?y s]vant ,isaac40 ,?is fai?ful /ew>d _h n yet end$ ^! words )9 himself1 & behold ,rebecca came out1 ! daught] ( ,ba?uel ! son ( ,mil*a1 wife to ,nahor1 ! bro!r ( ,abraham1 & spoke & did z ?is s]vant _h wi%$3 & !n he gave h] gold5 e>r+s & bracelets4 ,z 0 fitt+1 ! :ole sc5e is laid 9 ! op5 air1 amid a *>m+ l&scape scatt]$ all ov] ) build+s4 ,to ! left1 9 ! =egr\nd1 we behold a maid ) a pit*] gett+ wat] out ( a l>ge squ>e tank1 ready1 z x seems1 = a second s]v+-woman to c>ry (f1 & :o is com+ back ) ano!r pit*] empty to be aga9 refill$4 ,9 ! middle gr\nd a "y woman1 :o c>ries a l>ge pot ( wat] on h] head1 is clamb]+ ov] a wood5 f5ce1 & go+ t[>ds an ar* or bridge lead+ to a h\se4 ,"r 9 ! c5tre ( ! piece /&s ,rebecca1 ) "o foot re/+ on a slab ( ve9$ m>ble1 on :i* is plac$ a ri*ly ornam5t$ vase2 & f out ano!r l vessel1 :i* %e holds up 9 bo? h] h&s1 %e is giv+ dr9k to ! /ew>d ,eliez]1 :o is respectfully b5d+ =w>ds :ile c>ry+ to 8 lips ?is same pit*] to slake 8 ?ir/4 ,a k9d ( %ort sword1 or anelace1 dangles f 8 girdle1 & a long /\t /aff lies by 8 feet ^u ! gr\nd4 ,two tall trees ) v9es tw9+ ab\t !m ov]%ad[ ! spot4 ,9 ! di/ance /& sev]al camels burd5$2 b beh9d him1 "s ( 8 m51 hav+ unload$ "o or two ( ^? bea/s1 are op5+ c]ta9 gaily ornam5t$ trunks1 & look+ out1 no d\bt1 ! bracelets & e>r+s to be aft]w>ds giv5 to ,rebecca4 ,9 ! backgr\nd are f9e l>ge build+s1 =tifications1 a ca/le1 & a palace-l erection conspicu\s = its tall t[] & cupola1 besides ! walls ( a little t[n4 ,! piece is fram$ ) a v elaborately design$ broad bord]1 conta9+ accessories :i* %[ a /rong lean+ t[>ds ! ornam5tation t grew out ( ! classicism t bur/ =? at ! end ( ! fifte5? c5tury all ov] ,europe4 ,on ! l[] b&1 /&+ "o at ea* side ( a %ort p$e/al1 or r l[ dado1 are1 back to back1 two be>d$ grotesques1 ea* ( :i* is made up ( a human head & face hav+ ?ree goats' horns gr[+ out ( ! =ehead1 & ( a wyv]n's body1 hold+ al(t 9 "o ( its claws a tall tap]+ tor*4 ,fur!r on comes a s]ies ( spaces peopl$ ) emblematic p]sonages1 & sep>at$ f "o ano!r by two little nak$ w+$ boys /&+ on a highly elaborate zocle1 & ) ! left h& sw++ by a cord1 at ea* end ( :i* hang f a r+1 & done up 9 bun*es1 fruits & fl[]s4 ,9 ! fir/ space is 8,prud5tia10 be>+ 9 h] "r h& a long-h&l$ convex mirror1 9 h] left1 a human skull2 9 ! second space1 ^u a sort ( ?rone1 sits 8,sollicitudo10 uphold+ 9 h] "r h& an oblong squ>e "t-piece1 :ile on h] left1 ) h] elb[ propp$ up by "o arm ( h] *air1 %e leans h] head z if buri$ 9 deep ?\ght2 9 ! ?ird space sits 8,animi-7,probitas70 ) bo? h] arms out/ret*$1 z if reprov+ly2 9 ! f\r? space we h 8,c]es10 ! hea!n goddess ( corn3 cr[n$ ) a wrea? ( ! c5taurea fl[]s1 %e c>ries e>s ( :eat 9 h] "r h&1 9 h] left1 a r\nd flat loaf ( bread2 9 ! fif? space1 8,lib]alitas10 :o1 f ! emblems 9 h] h&s1 mu/ h be5 meant to p]sonify n g5]osity b fre$om1 = 9 h] "r h& %e %[s u a hawk's jesses1 ) ! bells & _! bewits1 & on h] left wri/1 or1 z x %\ld be phras$1 ! 8fi/10 ! hawk itself )\t jesses1 bells1 lunes1 or tyrrits on--9 fact q free4 ,at ! left side ( ! upright portion ( ! bord]1 /&s fir/1 )9 an ar*itectural ni*e1 8,circumspectio10 or ,w>9ess1 :o1 :ile %e ga!rs up ) h] "r h& h] fl[+ g>m5ts f h9d]+ h] foot/eps1 ) h] left1 holds an an*or upright1 & c>ries on h] wri/ a hawk ) two heads1 "o look+ beh9d1 ! o!r be=e1 fit tok5 ( ke5-sight$ness1 :i*1 f a k ( ! pa/1 /rives to le>n wisdom = ! future4 ,high] up 8,adjuratio0 is /&+1 ) h] "r h& out/ret*$ af>1 z if 9 w>n+ ( ! awfulness ( ! act1 & h] left h& held ^u h] bosom 9 e>ne/ ( ! tru? ( :at %e utt]s1 :il/ all ab\t h] head1 z if enlight5$ f heav51 %9es a nimb ( glory4 ,la/ ( all on ?is side1 we h 8,bonus zelus10 or ,"r-,e>ne/ness1 9 ! figure ( a /\t1 hale husb&man1 :o is ab\t clasp+ )9 8 "r arm two /raight uproot$ sapl+s1 evid5tly apple-trees1 by ! fruit hang+ f ! wisp :i* b9ds !m at _! middle height4 ,go+ to ! "r-h& /rip1 we f9d1 at ! l[] end1 occupy+ h] ni*e1 8,pudicitias10 7sic71 figur$ z a "y maid51 :o holds ^u h] brea/ ) h] left arm a little lamb1 :i*1 ) h] uplift$ "r h&1 & ! fir/ two f+]s put out accord+ to ! ,lat9 rite1 %e seems to be bless+4 ,9 8 own ni*e1 & j ov]head1 we see 8,requisicio10 or ,hot-wi%fulness1 :o is %[n to u "u ! guise ( a "y knight1 girt ) an anelace1 :i* hangs 9 front ( him3 9 ! holl[ ( 8 left out/ret*$ h& he c>ries a he>t--v likely z 8 own--all on fire4 ,! la/ ( ?is v curi\s s]ies is 8,dilig5tia10 z a matronly woman1 :o1 ) "o h& keep+ ! ample folds ( h] g[n f fall+ ab\t h] feet1 c>ries ! bran* ( a v9e 9 ! o!r h&4 ,f ! quantities ( dull$ & blacki% spaces all ov] ! bord]-gr\nd1 & amid ! drap]ies ^u ! figures 9 ?is tape/ry1 x is evid5t t mu* gold ?read 0 wov5 into x1 s t :5 fre% f ! loom x mu/ h _h a spl5d\r & a ri*ness ( :i* at pres5t we c image to ourselves b a v fa9t idea4 ,?\gh ! glitt] ( its gold5 mat]ial is gone = ev]1 its arti/ic beauty _c ev] fade4 ,mu* gracefulness 9 ! attitudes1 sev]al happy =e%ort5+s1 & a great deal ( good draw+ all ab\t ?is design1 %[ t ! man :o made ! c>toon mu/ h deeply /udi$ ! great ma/]s ( ,italy1 &1 9 an especial mann]1 ^? belong+ to ! ,roman s*ool3 un=tunately1 l all ( !m1 he too _h =got to le>n :at 0 ! real ,ori5tal co/ume1 & foll[$ a classic /yle 9 dress1 :i*1 z he has giv5 x1 is (t5 v incorrect4 ,tape/ry ,wall-hang+2 subject1 ,tobit1 ! fa!r1 s5d+ 8 son to ! city ( ,rages = ! recov]y ( ! moneys l5t to ,gabael4 ,flemi%1 late #ag? c5tury4 ,sitt+ 9 ! op5 air1 we see fir/ ! eld] ,tobit4 ,well /rick5 9 ye>s1 & bl9d1 he is lean+ 8 "r h& ^u a /aff2 9 8 left h& he holds a fold$ docum5t--! note-(-h& sign$ by ,gabael4 ,?9k+ t he mu/ die 9 a %ort "t1 he has call$ to 8 side 8 well-belov$ *ild ! "y ,tobias1 & aft] hav+ giv5 him ! mo/ :olesome c\nsel = 8 religi\s & moral behavi\r ?r\gh life1 speaks ( 8 own burial1 & h[ he wi%es t :5 8 wife ,s>ah's days are done1 ! boy %\ld lay 8 "m's body by 8 fa!r's 9 ! grave4 ,z an end+ to ?is disc\rse1 ! eld] ,tobias said1 8#8,i signify ?is to !e1 t ,i committ$ t5 tal5ts to ,gabael--at ,rages 9 ,m$ia4 ,seek !e a man :i* may g ) !e1 :iles ,i yet live--& g & receive ! money40 ,!n ,tobias go+ =?1 f\nd a beautiful "y man1 /&+ gird$1 & z x 7 ready to walk2 & n kn[+ t he 0 an angel ( ,god1 he salut$ him & said3 8,can/ ?\ g ) me to ,rages1 & kn[e/ ?\ ^? places well80 ,to :om ! angel said3 8,i w g ) !e1 & ,i "k ! way well40 ,!n ,tobias go+ 9 told all ^! ?+s to 8 fa!r2 & all ?+s be+ ready1 ,tobias bade 8 fa!r & 8 "m f>ewell1 & he & ! angel set out bo? toge!r2 & :5 !y 7 dep>t$1 8 "m began to weep2 & ,tobias w5t =w>d1 & ! dog foll[$ him4--,book ( ,tobit1 *apt]s iv4 v4 ,seat$1 & lean+ 8 "r h& ^u 8 /aff1 ! old man is out/ret*+ ) 8 left to 8 />t+ son ! note-(-h& to ,gabael1 beh9d him /&s 8 wife ,s>ah weep+2 be=e him is 8 son1 :o1 lean+ 8 long travell+ /aff aga9/ 8 %\ld]1 ) 8 left h& is ab\t to take ! important docum5t f 8 fa!r1 at ! same "t t he turns himself half r\nd & po9ts ) 8 "r h& to ! angel beh9d him1 z if to com=t 8 fa!r 9 ! k t he is to h su* a good companion = 8 guide4 ,! angel1 :o c>ries a travell]'s /aff 9 8 left h&1 holds out 8 "r t[>ds ! "y man1 z tell+ 8 fa!r & "m h[ c>efully he w\ld lead him to ,rages1 & br+ him safely home aga94 ,la/ ( all1 & /&+ b5ea? a tree we f9d a saddl$ ass ) a l>ge gaily ornam5t$ pilgrim's wood5 bottle = wat] hang+ by its side1 & ! ass's head is turn$ r\nd z if look+ on ! fai?ful dog t is ly+ on ! gr\nd ready to foll[ 8 "y ma/] on ! way4 ,magnific5t build+s arise z a backgr\nd to ! spot :]e we see old ,tobit seat$1 & /&+ beh9d him 8 weep+ wife ,s>ah4 ,on ! ?re%old ( _! own f9e h\se beh9d !m !re /&s 9 a ni*e ! /atue ( ,moses1 :o is figur$ ) ! two horns ^u 8 =ehead1 z repres5t+ ! light t %one ab\t 8 face1 & d>t$ all ar\nd x 9 rays l horns1 z he came f ,s9ai a second "t ) tables ( ! law3 8 left h& leans ^u ^? two tables t /& beside him2 & on 8 "r arm lies a long scroll4 ,! bord]s all ab\t ! piece are made up ( wrea!d b\ghs ( foliage1 f out ( :i* peep =? fruits & fl[]s4 ,! left-h& /rip %[s a peacock p]*$ ^u ! /em ( a v9e1 & little boys are %oot+ blunt-head$ arr[s at x3 on ! /rip to ! "r1 o!r little boys are disport+ !mselves amid ! bran*es1 play+ music1 "o beat+ a drum1 a second bl[+ ! flute1 o!rs clamb]+ up amid ! roses1 fruits & fl[]s2 "o little fell[1 conspicu\s = 8 dress1 is wav+ a flag 9 great delight3 on ! l[] bord] *ildr5 are at _! gambols ) equally graceful en]gy4 ,at e "o ( ! f\r corn]s is a l>ge circle1 wr\ght 9 imitation ( bronze1 all 9 gold1 b n[ s fad$ t ! smalle/ lu/re f ! metal is lack+4 ,!y 7 figur$ by ! means ( outl9es done 9 br[n silk1 ea* ) a subject drawn f ! ,book ( ,tobit4 ,9 ! circle1 at ! upp] left-h& corn]1 we obs]ve ! "y ,tobias go+ out f 8 fa!r to seek1 z he _h bidd5 him1 = "s tru/y guide to ,gabael's h\se2 9 ! l[] r\nd ( ! same side ! wi%$-= companion1 ,raphael 9 8 angel %ape1 has be5 br\ght 91 & is speak+ ) ! bl9d old man4 ,look+ at ! circle on ! upp] "r-h& ( ! bord] we see ! same ,tobit giv+ com=t to 8 sorr[+ wife ,s>ah1 j z bo? h be5 left by _! son gone on 8 j\rney4 ,gold-cov]$ ?read has be5 mu* employ$ all ab\t ?is f9e specim5 ( tape/ry2 b1 l too _m o!r in/ances ( misappli$ economy 9 mat]ial1 ?is exhibits no?+ b blot*es ( dirty br[ni% black 9 ^? laces :i* %\ld h %one ) gold4 ,tape/ry ,wall-hang+2 gr\nd1 r :ite2 subject1 a fea/4 ,fr5*1 or ,gobel91 #ah? c5tury4 ,l5t by ! ,bo>d ( ,works4 ,)9 a l>ge /one hall1 r\ghly built & fe/oon$1 is spread a long well-provid$ table1 at :i* ! gue/s1 male & female1 are sitt+3 9 ! =egr\nd are ! s]vants1 "s ( :om are %[n 9 v d>+ b successful =e%ort5+s1 rem9d+ u some:at1 on ! :ole1 ( "o ( ,paolo ,v]onese's banquets1 ?\gh "h we behold a ru/ic build+ 9 a g>d51 n an ar*itectural hall 9 a ,v5etian palace4 ,tape/ry ,wall-hang+2 gr\nd1 mo/ly :ite2 subject1 ,cupid among ! ru/ics4 ,fr5*1 or ,gobel91 #ah? c5tury4 ,l5t by ! ,bo>d ( ,works4 ,amid ! ru9s ( an ,ionic temple 9 ! =egr\nd we h a %eph]d & 8 dog fa/ asleep1 :ile a w+$ y\?ful g5ius is hov]+ j above1 & scatt]+ v pl5tifully poppy-fl[]s all ab\t ! spot4 ,beh9d1 a "y little ,cupid1 seat$ on a cl\d1 is surr\nd$ by a cr[d ( ru/ics1 m5 & wom51 ?rong+1 z x 71 to he> him4 ,z 9 ! o!r fell[-piece to ?is1 ! col\r+ is *e]ful & v pleas+1 9 p>ts s s(t & well graduat$ 9 _! tones1 & s rem>kable = _! =e%ort5+s4 ,f _! l>ge size !y mu/ h be5 int5d$ = "s great hall1 & seem+ly 7 all wr\ght = ! same spaci\s room4 ,tape/ry ,hang+s = ,pila/]s2 gr\nd1 br[n2 design1 arabesques done 9 r$1 blue1 & yell[4 ,fr5*1 e>ly #ah? c5tury4 ,l5t by ! ,bo>d ( ,works4 ,^! two pieces seem to h be5 especially wr\ght to cov] "s pila/]s 9 a hall1 & n to bord] any l>g] production ( ! loom4 ,illu/ration ,,index ,i4 ,,abram & ,,mel*is$e* figur$1 #hh1 #cbh4 ,,abraham's s]vant meet+ ,rebecca at ! well1 #ccc4 ,add]bury ,*ur*1 ,oxon1 mon/] sculptures outside (1 #aeg4 ,,ahasu]us & ,,e/h]1 figur$1 #cjg4 ,alhambra1 #ee4 ,alb1 app>els =1 #fe1 #adf1 #aii4 ---- f9e m$ival "o1 #bfh4 ,alg]9e embroid]y1 #ah4 ,alm]ia1 its f9e silks1 #fc4 ,alt>1 c]e-clo? =1 #afj4 ,alt>-clo?s1 #fj1 #fb1 #gc1 #gi1 #bfe4 ,alt>-curta9s1 #ea1 #bja4 ,alt>-frontals1 #ad1 #ca1 #hg1 #aja1 #bfe1 #bff1 #bfg4 ,alt>-frontlets1 #fb1 #bfe4 ,amices1 #ahe1 #aie4 ,amice1 app>el =1 #cd1 #ahf1 c4 ,,ana/asius ,,biblio!c>ius1 quot$1 #aee1 #afa4 ,angels1 n9e *oirs (1 #bb1 #bha4 ,animals1 see ,zoology4 ,anj\1 ,royal ,h\se (1 #cb4 ,,ann ( ,bohemia1 ,ri*>d ,,ii4's que51 #ec4 ,annunciation ( ! ,b4 ,v4 ,m>y1 figur$1 #b1 #ahf1 #bdg4 ,,an?ony1 ,s41 figur$1 #bec1 #bed4 ---- ,canons ,regul> (1 #ccb4 ---- fire (1 or erysipelas1 #ccb2 hospital = ! cure ( x at ,b\rg ,s4 ,anto9e 9 ! s\? ( ,france1 #ccb4 ,app>els = ,albs1 #fe1 #adf1 #adi1 #aha1 #aii1 #bfh4 ---- = amices1 #cd1 #ahe1 #ahg1 #aie1 #bcd4 ,app>els = dalmatics & tunicles1 #bjf4 ,apocalypse quot$1 #bhh4 ,appli$ or cut-"w1 #b1 #ag1 #bj1 #ba1 #gg1 #ha1 #adf1 #aii1 #bae1 #bfe4 ,arabic inscriptions1 real1 #agi1 #bcb1 #bch1 #bdc4 ---- pret5d$1 #be1 #bi1 #de1 #ec1 #gf1 #abb1 #abe1 #acg1 #ach1 #adf1 #agg1 #aha1 #bac1 #bbj1 #bcd4 ,araneum opus1 #afb4 ,ar*itectural design on /uffs1 #aj1 #cb1 #cc1 #ajh1 #aca1 #aej1 #bcc1 #beb4 ,armorial be>+s (-- ,,br&5burg1 #fc4 ,,bass+burn1 ,,de1 #bhe4 ,bohemia1 #fc4 ,,botil]1 ,le1 #bhc1 #bhe4 ,,bygod1 #bhe4 ,,*amb[e7871 #bhe4 ,,*amp]n\n1 #bhd4 ,ca/ile & ,leon1 #bhb4 ,cleves1 #bb1 #bdf4 ,,clif=d1 #bhc4 ,engl&1 #bdf1 #bhd4 ,,ev]>d1 #bhc4 ,france1 #hd4 ,,f]r]s1 #bhb4 ,,fretie1 #bad4 ,,fitton1 #adh4 ,,fitz ,,alan1 #bhd4 ,,gr&ison1 "o ( ! coats1 #bhd4 ,,g5eville1 #bhb4 ,,golbore or ,,grove1 #bhe4 ,,hampd57871 #bhd4 ,knights ,templ>'s badge1 #bhc4 ,,limesi or ,,l9dsey1 #bhc4 ,,lucy1 #bhe4 ,,m>ck1 ,,de ,,la1 #bb4 ,,mont5ey ( ,essex1 #bhd4 ,,mortim]1 ,,rog] ,,de1 #bhe4 ,,p&olf9i1 #adc4 ,,p]cy1 #bhd4 ,,ribbes=d 7871 #bhe4 ,,%eldon1 #bhd4 ,,sp5c]1 #bhc4 ,,?ornell ( ,suffolk1 #adh4 ,,tydeswall1 #bhd4 ,,w>wick1 #bhb4 ,assumption ( ! ,b4 ,v4 ,m>y figur$1 #hi1 #bgb1 #bgc1 #bgf1 #bgh4 ,atonem5t1 symbol (1 #cj4 ,aubusson tape/ry & c>pets1 #cjf4 ,aud5a]de fam\s = its tape/ry1 #bid4 ,av>ice p]sonifi$1 & progress (1 figur$1 #cbi4 1 :at1 #bdi4 ,bags1 liturgical1 #ahh1 #bfc2 ,p]sian travell+1 #hc4 ,balaam's prophecy quot$ f ,numb]s1 xxiv4 #ag1 #bhe4 ,balm clo?1 #ai1 #bj4 ,bamb]g ca!dral1 /uffs !re1 #aec4 ,bann]s = *ur* processions1 #bei4 ,ba?1 old ,engli% ve/m5ts f\nd hidd5 9 a h\se at1 #hh4 ,bayeux1 s-call$ tape/ry1 piece (1 #f4 ,beads1 embroid]y 91 #afi4 ---- mak+ (1 at ,v5ice1 #afi4 ---- or ros>y1 = pray]s1 #bfc4 ,bea/s1 see ,zoology4 ,beauvais tape/ry1 #cjg4 ,b$-quilts1 #bj1 #hf1 #ajd1 #bic2 hang+s1 #ajg4 ,,bele?1 ,,john1 quot$1 #bgg4 ,,b]n>d1 ,,/41 *asuble (1 #aei4 ,birds1 see ,zoology4 ,bi%ops' liturgical /ock+s1 #ef4 ,bissus or ,byssus1 :at1 #be1 #aeb1 #age1 #bci4 ,,black ,,pr9ce1 #abi4 ,bless+1 ! liturgical1 h[ giv5 9 ! ,lat9 rite1 #ahg2 figur$ z giv5 ) ! left or wrong h&1 #ga4 ,,blick9 ,,von ,,li*t5b]g1 ,,anna1 #id4 ,block pr9t+ on l951 #aah1 #abj1 #ahc1 #ahd1 #bcd4 ---- on diap]1 #fa4 ---- on silk1 #ca4 ,,bock1 ,rev4 ,dr41 quot$1 #be1 #bf1 #bi1 #cd1 #de1 #di1 #eb1 #ee1 #eh1 #fj1 #hi1 #abb1 #abc1 #aea1 #aeb1 #aee1 #aeh1 #afb1 #afe1 #afi1 #age1 #ahd1 #ahg1 #bjg1 #bbc1 #bdb1 #bdg1 #beb1 #bfd1 #bgj4 ,bohemia1 arms (1 #fc2 ,,ann (1 #fc4 ,bord]+1 or ,lace1 #afj4 ,borsa1 ! ,italian1 gibeci]e or p\*1 #c4 ,boots or legg+1 l /ock+s1 worn by bi%ops :ile pontificat+1 #ef4 ,botany-- ,fl[]s3 ,arti*oke1 bloom (1 #fd1 #acg4 ,bignonia1 or trumpet fl[]1 #ge4 ,c5taurea1 or corn-fl[]1 #dg1 #di1 #ec1 #fb1 #hi1 #ii1 #beh4 ,fleur-de-lis1 #e1 #bg1 #bi1 #cb1 #ce1 #ei1 #ia1 #aaj1 #aaf1 #acj1 #ach1 #afb1 #afg1 #aif1 #bbf4 ,frittil>y1 #ff4 ,foxglove1 or digitalis1 #ff4 ,honeysuckle1 #gc4 ,he>tsease1 or pansey1 #bei4 ,ivy1 #acb4 ,lily1 #fi1 #hi1 #aaj1 #aae1 #beg1 #caj4 ,p5/emon1 #ff4 ,p9ks1 #aae4 ,pomegranate1 #aa1 #ab1 #ac1 #ad1 #bj1 #ff4 ,rose1 #bj1 #cd1 #dg1 #ei1 #fa1 #ajg1 #ahh1 #aic1 #aie4 ,trefoil1 #acg4 ,tulips1 #db1 #fb4 ,fruits1 c43 ,acorns1 #aae1 #bjb1 #bde4 ,apples 7871 #acg4 ,arbutus un$o1 or /rawb]ry tree1 #aaj4 ,arti*oke1 #cf1 #dg1 #fj1 #fb1 #fd1 #fe1 #ff1 #fi1 #gj1 #gb1 #gc1 #hj1 #aad1 #aae1 #aaf1 #aah1 #abi1 #acj1 #acd1 #ade1 #aeb1 #aib1 #bef4 ,grapes1 #di1 #fi1 #gd1 #ge1 #afc1 #bda1 #bde4 ,mulb]ry1 #fe4 ,oranges 7871 #acg4 ,pomegranate1 #g1 #dh1 #ej1 #ff1 #gc1 #ia1 #aad1 #aae1 #abh1 #acd1 #aia1 #aib1 #aic1 #aig1 #aii1 #bbh1 #bef1 #beh4 ,/rawb]ry1 #aaj4 ,:eat-e>s1 #ij1 #aac1 #acg1 #agg4 ,trees3 ,! ,homa1 hom1 or sacr$ tree ( ! ,p]sians1 #hd1 #adj1 #aed1 #bac1 #bae1 #baf1 #bch4 ,oak-leaves1 #bjb1 #bde4 ,v9e1 #afc1 #bde4 ,box = corporals1 #aab1 #aic1 #aid4 ---- = res]vation ( ! consecrat$ ,ho/1 f ,maundy ,?ursday till ,good ,friday1 #aab4 ,br&5burg1 arms (1 #fc4 ,brocades1 #h1 #i1 #aj1 #ab1 #ae1 #ai1 #bj1 #bi1 #aad1 #aaf1 #aag1 #abb1 #abf1 c4 ,,brooke1 ! ,collection1 #cab4 ,b\*i] ,knot1 #afh4 ,b\rg!r\d1 ,hotel de1 at ,r\51 #bid4 ,boy-bi%op1 #he4 ,bugles1 #afi4 ,burse1 or corporal-case1 #add1 #ade1 #aid4 ,byssus1 see ,bissus4 ,byzant9e /uffs1 #aee1 #aei1 #afj1 #afa1 #bai1 #bbb4 ,c1 ! lett]1 int]lac$1 #e1 #ch4 ,cairo1 #eg4 ,canvas1 :at k9d ( /uff meant by ! ^w 9 old inv5tories1 #ahe4 ,cap1 scull1 #af2 ( e/ate or /ate1 #hf4 ,,capuanus1 ,,petrus1 quot$1 #bhf4 ,c>pet1 #ff1 #hc1 #bji1 #bdh2 see ,p$alia1 or ,p$e-clo?4 ,,caxton1 8 translation ( ! 8,leg5da ,aurea10 quot$1 #bge1 #bgg4 ,c5dal1 #afc4 ,c]e-clo?1 = lay+ imm$iately ov] ! alt>-/one1 #afj4 ,*airs1 seat-cov]s =1 #aaj4 ,*>les ,i4's scull-cap1 #af4 ,*asubles1 #a1 #e1 #ac1 #ba1 #gf1 #ha1 #hb1 #hh1 #adb1 #bjh1 #bac1 #bfd1 #bff1 #bfi4 ,*auc] quot$1 #fd4 ,*eetahs1 see ,zoology4 ,*9ese silks1 c4 #a1 #h1 #aa1 #ab1 #af1 #ge4 ,*oirs1 n9e1 ( angels1 #bb1 #bha4 8,*ur* ( our ,fa!rs10 quot$1 #ai1 #cd1 #cf1 #df1 #he1 #ajc1 #agj1 #agd1 #aha1 #ahf1 #aid1 #aif1 #bjb1 #bjc1 #bje1 #bjf1 #baj1 #bci1 #bdh1 #bfe4 ,cl>e1 ,m>g>et de1 ,c\ntess ( ,cornwall1 #f4 ,,cleves1 pr9cely h\se (1 #bdf4 ,,cleves1 its armorial be>+s1 #bb4 ,clo?1 ,corpus ,*ri/i1 :at1 #bjb1 #bfj4 ---- = crozi]1 #agd1 #bej4 ---- = lect]n1 #baj1 c4 ---- = pyx1 #bjb1 #bfj4 ---- ( e/ate1 #ajg4 ---- ( gold or lama d'oro1 #bjd1 #bjh4 ,cluny1 ,hotel de1 at ,p>is1 #bab4 ,cobham college & *ur*1 ,k5t1 iron lect]n once at1 #bac4 ,cobweb /uff1 s-call$1 #afb4 ,coll>s ( ,ord]s-- ,/4 ,mi*ael1 #hd2 ,! ,holy ,gho/1 #hd4 ,cologne1 #fa1 #ahg2 pa9t+ 9 ca!dral1 #ahg2 wov5 /uffs = *ur* use1 see orphreys ( web4 ---- embroid]y1 #fa1 #ff1 #fg1 #bdf4 ,col\rs1 murrey1 once su* a fav\rite 9 ,engl&1 #i4 ---- p9k or gules1 & gre51 some:at peculi> to ,p>l]mitan looms1 #afe1 #agj1 #agh1 c4 ---- ^? us$ 9 ! ,lat9 z well z ! ,greek rite1 #agb2 black 9 s]vices = ! dead1 #aig4 ,copes1 #b1 #ae1 #hj1 #bjg1 #bge4 ---- hoods (1 #fg1 #add1 #aih2 9 ,engl&1 h[ %ap$1 #da4 ,coral beads1 #afi4 ,cornelimn/]1 abbey (1 #bf2 sud>y ( our ,"l !re1 #bf4 ,coronation ( ! ,b4 ,v4 ,m>y figur$1 #bcf1 #bgb1 #bhj4 ,corporals or squ>e pieces ( alt> l951 #add1 #ade1 #aid1 #aie4 ---- cases = keep+1 #aab1 #add1 #ade1 #aid2 see ,burse4 ,corpus ,*ri/i clo?s1 #bjb1 #bfj4 ,co/ume1 m$ival1 #gh4 ,c\nt]pane1 #bga4 ,cov5try1 its fam\s gild1 #bhi1 c4 ,cov]lets1 #bj1 c4 ,crac[es or po9t$ %oes1 s call$1 #ec4 ,cradle-cov]lets1 #d1 #ac1 #ff1 #fg1 #ajj1 #ajc1 #ajd1 #aaj4 ,crape1 #abf4 ,creep+ to ! cross1 c]emony (1 on ,good ,friday1 #agd4 ,cresc5t moon & />1 symbolical ( our ,"l & ,8 *ur*1 #bhe4 ,cro*et "w1 #ah1 #gb4 ,cross1 ,/4 ,&rew's1 #afa1 #bbi2 ! s-call$ ,y cross1 #hb4 ---- cramponne1 #afa2 flory1 #afa2 foliat$1 #bah2 pomme1 #adj4 ---- filfod1 #afa4 ---- gammadion1 #afa4 ---- ,greek1 figur$ on /uffs1 #afj4 ---- creep+ to1 c]emony (1 #agd4 ,cr[n1 suppos$1 ( ,k+ ,edw>d ! ,confessor1 #aec4 ---- ( ,/4 ,edgi?a1 #aec4 ,crozi]1 napk9 =1 #agd1 #bej4 ,crucifixion figur$1 #f1 #cj1 #hb1 #hc1 #adb1 #bgf4 ---- ) f\r nails1 #cj4 ---- old ,engli% mann] ( figur+1 #bgf4 ,cry/al balls1 #bjf4 ,,curet,n1 ,dr41 quot$1 #agi4 ,curta9s1 #g1 #ab1 #ac1 #ae4 ---- = ! alt>1 #ea1 #bja4 ,cu%ions1 #d1 #ei1 #aaa1 #adb1 #agd1 #bgc4 ---- us$ 9 ! liturgy1 #ei1 #agd4 ,cut-purse1 :at meant by ! expression1 #c4 ,cut-"w1 #bb1 #gf1 #ada1 #ahi1 #aii1 #bei1 #bib2 see ,appli$ "w4 ,cyrillian alphabet1 !1 #agb4 ,daisies1 ! symbolism (1 #adi1 see ,botany--,fl[]s4 ,dalmaticks1 #gf1 #adc1 #bjf1 #bad1 #bff4 ,dalmatics1 app>els on1 #bjf4 ,damask1 ,*9ese1 #ge4 ,damasks1 figur$ ) pictorial subjects1 #afe1 #ahd1 c41 see 8,/uffs hi/oriat$40 ,damask 9 l951 #gc1 #bja1 #bjc1 #bch4 ---- 9 l95 & wooll51 #bjb4 ---- 9 silk1 #aj1 #aa1 #ac1 #ae1 #be1 #da1 #db1 #dc1 #dg1 #dh1 #di1 #ej1 #eb1 #ee1 #ef1 #eg1 #fb1 #fg1 #gb1 #gc1 #gd1 #ha1 #aac1 #aad1 #aae1 #aaf1 #aba1 #abd1 #abe1 #abf1 #abg1 #abh1 #abi1 #acj1 #aca1 #acc1 #acf1 #acg1 #ach1 #aci1 #adj1 #aeb1 #aed1 #aee1 #aef1 #aei1 #afj1 #afb1 #afc1 #afh1 #aij1 #aia1 #aif1 #aig1 #bjb1 #bjc1 #bjd1 #bje1 #bjf1 #bac1 #bae1 #baf1 #bba1 #bbd1 #bbe1 #bbf1 #bbg1 #bbh1 #bbi1 #bcc1 #bcd1 #bcg1 #bch1 #bci1 #bdj1 #bda1 #bdd1 #bde1 #bea1 #bef1 #bgd4 ,damask 9 silk & cotton1 #fj1 #aff1 #afg1 #bcj1 #bca1 #bfb4 ---- 9 silk & gold1 #df1 #dg1 #eb1 #ec1 #ed1 #ef1 #eg1 #fj1 #fc1 #fd1 #fe1 #ff1 #aac1 #abi1 #acj1 #acb1 #acd1 #acg1 #ach1 #aci1 #adf1 #aea1 #aei1 #afb1 #afd1 #afe1 #aff1 #afg1 #afh1 #agj1 #agg1 #agh1 #agi1 #ahj1 #aha1 #ahc1 #ahd1 #aia1 #aic1 #bja1 #bac1 #bbd1 #bbe1 #bbg1 #bbh1 #bcc1 #bcd1 #bce1 #bcg1 #bch1 #bda1 #bdc1 #bdg1 #bgc4 ---- 9 silk & hemp1 #afd4 ---- 9 silk & l951 #gd1 #acj1 #acf1 #aed1 #aff1 #bjd1 #bdc1 #bfb1 #bfd4 ---- 9 silk & silv]1 #afa1 #agg1 #ahc4 ---- 9 silk1 wool1 l951 ?read1 & gold1 #abi4 ,,daniel1 ! book (1 quot$1 #bbg4 ,design1 ar*itectural1 ^u /uffs1 #aj1 #cb1 #cc1 #ajh1 #aca1 #aej1 #bcc1 #beb4 ,didi]-la-,mo! or ,b\rg ,s4 ,anto9e hospital at = ^? /ruck ) ,s4 ,an?ony's fire or erysipelas1 #ccb4 ,,diog5es1 subjects1 9 tape/ry1 f ! life (1 #cjc1 c4 ,door-curta9s1 #g1 #ab1 #ac1 #ae4 ,dorneck1 a co>s] k9d ( damask s call$1 #abi4 ,dory1 ,john1 ! fi% s call$1 #aea4 ,dove1 emblem ( ! ,holy ,gho/1 #eh4 ,dragon1 ! five-claw$ ,*9ese1 #a4 ,dress1 ,lady's1 #ad1 #ah2 & ! ,brooke ,collection1 #cac1 c4 ,,duc1 ,m4 ,,viollet ,,le1 quot$1 #bab4 ,,dugdale's ,/4 ,paul's1 quot$1 #aea4 ,durham1 ,anglo-,saxon embroid]$ ve/m5ts kept 9 ! ca!dral libr>y at1 #bje4 ,eagle1 d\ble-head$1 #bf1 #bh1 #cg1 #hf4 ---- ,g]man1 ( ,*>les ,v4 ( ,spa91 #g4 ,edw>d ,i41 h[ he knight$ 8 son1 #bhg2 & swore by ! swans t he w\ld wage w> aga9/ ,scotl&1 ,ib4 ,egyptian gauze1 #eg2 l951 #be2 silk1 #ef2 taffeta1 #eg4 ,elephant1 #de4 ---- & ,ca/le1 #agj4 ,embroid]y1 ,*9ese1 #g1 #ab1 #af4 ---- ,engli%1 #e1 #f1 #af1 #hh1 #adg1 #bge1 #bhc4 ---- ,flemi%1 #aai1 #add1 #aih1 #bdh4 ---- ,flor5t9e1 #eh1 #ia1 #aaa1 #abj1 #adb1 #bad4 ---- ,fr5*1 #he1 #aaj1 #bai1 #bbf4 ---- ,g]man1 #ea1 #ec1 #eh1 #ei1 #fj1 #ff1 #ajc1 #ajh1 #aai1 #abj1 #aci1 #adj1 #aej1 #aec1 #aef1 #aeh1 #afe1 #aff1 #ahf1 #ahg1 #ahi1 #aij1 #aif1 #bjf1 #bjg1 #baf1 #bah1 #bdi1 #bej1 #beb1 #bec1 #bed1 #beg1 #beh1 #bfi4 ---- ,indian1 #hf1 #bfb4 ---- ,italian1 #ga1 #ade1 #aii1 #bga4 ---- ,p]sian1 #bgj4 ---- ,sicilian1 #adi4 ---- ,spani%1 #fe1 #hb1 #bjd4 ---- ,syrian1 #bfb4 ---- ,v5etian1 #afh4 ---- 9 quilt+1 #ad1 #af1 c4 ---- 9 wav+ l9es1 #ei4 ---- done 9 beads1 #dd1 #afi1 #aij4 ---- z cut-"w & appli$1 #adf1 #ahi1 #aii1 #bdh4 ---- 9 gold wire1 #bbj4 ---- 9 gold & silv] wire1 #aej4 ---- done 9 solid silv] gilt wire1 #aej1 #bbj4 ---- 9 pe>ls & preci\s /ones1 #aii4 ---- ) goldsmi?'s "w amid x1 #afh1 #afi1 #ahf1 #aii1 #bbc1 #bcc4 ---- 9 silk1 #b1 #c1 #d1 #e1 #f1 #g1 #ab1 #ac1 #af1 #cd1 #ajc1 #aag1 #abj1 #acc1 #add1 #aec1 #aee1 #aef1 #aff1 #afh1 #aha1 #bag1 #beb1 #bga1 #bgc1 #bge4 ---- on l95 9 silk1 #bi1 #eh1 #fj1 #fe1 #aai1 #ahf1 #ahg1 #ahi1 #beh1 #bfb4 ---- on l95 9 ?read1 #ca1 #ea1 #abj4 ---- done 9 ?read1 #ai1 #bj1 #ec1 #eh4 ---- done 9 wor/$1 #adj1 #bef1 #bfb1 #bfi4 ---- figur$ ) birds1 #af1 #aeh4 ---- hi/oric1 #g1 #ia1 #adg1 #aej1 #bfi1 #bgc4 ---- fl[]s1 #d1 #e1 #aa1 #ab1 #ac1 #af1 #aba1 #aii1 #bac4 ---- figur$ ) sa9ts1 #b1 #f1 #ef1 #eh1 #hh1 #aaa1 #aaf1 #add1 #ade1 #adf1 #adg1 #adi1 #aea1 #afe1 #ahf1 #ahg1 #ahi1 #aij1 #aih1 #bjg1 #bag1 #bdd1 #bdh1 #bej1 #bed1 #beh4 ,engli% *9tz1 #hd4 ---- conv5tional fl[]s 9 embroid]y1 #hh4 ---- purse1 #ajf4 ---- quilt+1 #af1 c4 ---- tape/ry1 #cjf4 ---- textiles 9 a ribbon-l %ape1 #bd1 #cc1 #ch1 #afa1 #bag1 #bah1 #bai1 #bba4 ---- embroid]y1 #e1 #f1 #af1 #hh1 #adg1 #bge1 #bhc2 & 8,! ,brooke ,collection10 #cab1 c41 passim4 ---- silks1 8,! ,brooke ,collection10 passim1 #cab4 ---- velvet1 8,! ,brooke ,collection10 passim1 #cab4 ---- small h&-loom wov5 /rips = /oles1 c41 #bd1 #cc1 #ch1 #bag1 #bah1 #bai1 #bba4 ,erysipelas1 or ,/4 ,an?ony's fire1 hospital =1 9 ,france1 #ccb4 ,,e/h] & ,,ahasu]us1 figur$ 9 tape/ry1 #cjg4 ,eu*>i/1 h[ borne to ! sick & dy+1 #ahh4 ---- res]vation (1 #aid1 #bjc4 ,,eusebius1 quot$1 #bhj4 ,evangeli/s' symbols1 #adi4 ,,eze*iel1 quot$1 #bha4 ,fan1 ! liturgic1 #fj4 ,fates1 ! ?ree1 figur$1 #cji4 ,f5rir1 ! ,sc&9avian fabl$ wat]-wolf1 #aea4 ,fe/ival1 ! old ,engli% s-call$ book1 quot$1 #adg1 #bgf4 ,filfod1 or ,full-foot1 #afa1 #agd1 #bdb1 #bdi4 ,fi%1 figur$1 #aea4 ,,fitton1 arms ( ! family (1 #adh4 ,flemi% embroid]y1 #c1 #aag1 #bdh1 #bee4 ---- l951 damask1 or nap]y1 #cd1 #fa1 #gc1 #ge1 #abd1 #bjc1 #bje1 #bee1 #bfc4 ---- l951 block-pr9t$1 #aah1 #abj1 #bcd4 ---- nap]y1 #cd1 #ge1 #abd1 #bee4 ---- silk damask1 #aij1 #aia1 #aig1 #beb4 ---- tape/ry1 #bid1 #bii1 #cjj1 #cja1 #cjb1 #cjc1 #cjg1 #cbh1 #cbi1 #ccj1 #cce4 ,flemi% velvet1 #bed1 #bee1 #bfd4 ,flor5t9e embroid]y1 #eh1 #ia1 #aaa1 #abj1 #adb1 #bad4 ---- silk1 damask$1 #bjb1 #bae2 figur$ ) angels1 #cf1 #acc4 ---- silk & l951 #bfd4 ---- velvets1 pla91 #ab1 #adb4 ---- velvets1 ) gold1 #he1 #add1 #ade4 ---- velvets1 rais$1 #ah1 #hb1 #add1 #ade4 ---- web = orphreys1 #hi1 #acf1 #adb1 #bfj1 #bia4 ,fl[]s1 see ,botany4 ----1 ! ,engli% conv5tional1 9 embroid]y1 #hh4 ,foot-clo?s1 #adj1 #bfc4 ,frames = enamels1 #cd1 #he4 ,,fras]1 or ,,fraz]1 ,scot* family (1 #bgd4 ,fr5* clo? ( gold1 #bjd1 #bjh4 ---- cut-"w1 #ha1 #bib4 ---- embroid]y1 #e1 #g1 #ad1 #ai1 #ba1 #bi1 #ajg1 #bje1 #bbf4 ---- gloves1 #aje4 ---- h]aldry1 #ad1 #bi1 #acj4 ---- lace 7gold71 #aca4 ---- lect]n-veil1 #ada4 ---- purses1 #hi1 #ajf4 ---- quilt+1 #ac1 #ajd4 ---- sat91 #h1 #ad1 #ba1 #ajd4 ---- silk1 brocad$1 #i1 #ae1 #aje4 ---- silk1 damask$1 #ac1 #bjd1 #bje1 #bjf4 ---- tape/ry1 #cjb1 #cjc1 #cjd4 ---- velvet1 #ad1 #ajf4 ---- webs1 #bi1 #acj4 ,,fretie1 ,,lodewi*1 #bad4 ,fr+e ( gold1 #ade2 ( silk1 #beb1 #bff4 ,frontals to alt>s1 #ad1 #ca1 #hg1 #aja1 #bfe1 #bff1 #bfg1 #bic4 ,frontlets1 #fb1 #bea1 #beg1 #bfe4 ,g1 ! lett] z an initial 7= ,gabriela871 #bcf4 ,gabriel ! ar*angel1 h[ figur$1 #ahf1 #bag4 ,gammadion1 #cd1 #fj1 #abg1 #agd1 #age1 #ahe1 #bdb1 #bdi4 ,,g>l&1 ,,john1 notic$1 #ch1 #afb1 #bag4 ,gauze1 #eg4 ,,geispitzheim1 ,,h5ry ,,von1 #id2 8 armorials1 #ic4 ,g5oa brocade1 #aad1 #acd4 ,g5oa damask1 #aae1 #aaf1 #bja4 ---- silk1 #ab4 ---- velvet1 #c1 #ah1 #fb1 #ij1 #ajg1 #aaj1 #ade1 #aib1 #aii1 #bjj1 #bfc4 ---- velvet rais$1 #ah1 #fb1 #ajg1 #acd4 ,geography ( textiles1 c42 see ,index ,,ii4 ,g]man embroid]y1 #ah1 #ba1 #cd1 #ce1 #db1 #ea1 #eh1 #fa1 #ib1 #ii1 #ajj1 #aja1 #ajc1 #ajd1 #aaf1 #acc1 #add1 #aec1 #aeh1 #afe1 #ahe1 #ahg1 #bjg1 #bdf1 #bdi1 #beb1 #bec1 #bfa1 #bfc4 ---- embroid]y on l95 9 silk1 #bi1 #ee1 #ei1 #fj1 #fb1 #aji1 #acc1 #aci1 #agd1 #ahf1 #ahg1 #aif1 #bdb1 #bej1 #bfa1 #bff1 #bfg1 #bgj4 ---- embroid]y on l95 9 ?read1 #ca1 #ce1 #fj1 #gi1 #bce1 #bfg4 ---- embroid]y 9 ?read1 #ah1 #ca1 #db1 #ib1 #ii4 ---- embroid]y 9 wor/$1 #ff1 #gi1 #ajh1 #bdf1 #bff1 #bfi4 ---- nap]y1 #aij4 ---- nett+1 #age1 #bde1 #bfg4 ---- silk & l951 #aib1 #bgj4 ---- tape/ry1 #bif1 #bih4 ---- velvet1 #bfj4 ---- webs1 #fa1 #fb1 #fc1 #fd1 #fi1 #hj1 #hb1 #aaf1 #aag1 #aah1 #aai1 #agd1 #age1 #beb1 #bec4 ,gianitore1 a fi%1 & :at1 #aea4 ,gibeci]e1 #c4 ,gilds1 ,engli%1 #bhi4 ---- _! ,corpus ,*ri/i plays1 #bhi4 ---- at ,cov5try1 #bhi4 ---- _! memb]s1 #bhi4 ---- _! ve/m5ts1 #bhi4 ,gilt p>*m5t1 #adj1 #bbd1 #bbi1 #bdd4 ---- vellum2 see gilt p>*m5t4 ,gimp1 #ajb4 ,,giotto1 #ahf4 ---- & 8 s*ool ( pa9t+1 #ahf4 ,girdles1 #eg1 #abf1 #bje1 #bah1 #bai4 ,girdle at ,prato1 ( ! ,b4 ,v4 ,m>y1 #bfa1 #bgb1 #bhj1 #bhb4 ,,glov]1 ,,rob]t1 ,som]set h]ald1 quot$1 #adh4 ,gloves1 ladies'1 #aje4 ,gobel9s tape/ry1 #cjb1 #cje4 ,gold5 ,leg5d1 ,caxton's ,engli% translation quot$1 #bge1 #bgg4 ,goldsmi?'s "w f\nd ^u embroid]y & textiles2 see ,silv]smi?'s "w4 ,good ,friday's celebration1 #aac4 ,good ,friday rite among ! ,greeks1 #aac1 #agc4 ---- rite among ! ,lat9s1 #aac1 #agd4 ,grail1 or ,grayle1 ! liturgic book1 :at1 #cd4 ,granada textiles1 #bf1 #bg1 #fj1 #fe1 #gc1 #abh1 #afa1 #aff4 ,,graunt1 ,ma/] ,?omas1 #bhi4 ,greek1 alb1 *itonion1 #aga4 ---- dalmatic or /oi*>ion1 #aga4 ---- ritual notic$1 #aac1 #abd1 #abf1 #aga1 #aia1 #bje4 ---- /oi*>ion or dalmatic1 #aga4 ---- textiles1 #bg1 #bh1 #cc1 #cf1 #abc1 #abd1 #abf1 #abg4 ---- mix$ ) cotton1 #bg1 #abf1 #bai4 ----1 ?read1 #cc1 #abc4 ,gre51 col\r (1 #eg1 #bha4 ,gregory's 7,/471 8,pity10 :at1 #cd4 ,,habacuc1 #bgg4 ,,haman1 fall (1 figur$1 #cjh4 ,,hampd51 arms ( 787 #bhg4 ,h&1 9 b5$iction1 #ed4 ,hang+s ( velvet1 #ag1 #ah1 #ajg4 ---- = walls1 wr\ght ( cut-"w1 & figur$ ) ! romance ( ,sir ,guy1 ( ,w>wick1 & ! ,nor?umbrian 8worm0 or dragon1 #gg4 ,h>e1 its symbolic mean+1 #bcg4 ,h>ts1 lodg$1 #dc4 ,,h5ry ,,ii1 emp]or ( ,g]many1 #aec2 tunic (1 #aec1 #aed4 ,h]aldry1 #ad1 #ai1 #bb1 #bh1 #cb1 #cg1 #ch1 #ci1 #dj1 #fc1 #gc1 #gf1 #hd1 #ic1 #ajc1 #ajd1 #ajh1 #abh1 #acj1 #adc1 #adh1 #age1 #agg1 #aha1 #ahc1 #aif1 #bjc1 #bjd1 #bje1 #bjg1 #bji1 #bad1 #bdf1 #bec1 #bfj1 #bfc1 #bfd1 #bff1 #bfg1 #bfi1 #bgc1 #bhb1 #bhc1 c4 8,hi]urgia10 ! "w s entitl$1 quot$1 #aga1 #ahe1 #aif1 #bjc1 #bje4 ,,hollis1 ! bro!rs'1 8,monum5tal ,effigies ( ,great ,brita910 quot$1 #bfi4 ,holos]icus1 :at1 #aee4 ,holy loaf1 :at1 #bfc4 ,hom1 or ,homa1 ! ,p]sian sacr$ tree1 #hd1 #adj1 #aed1 #bac1 #baf1 #bch4 ,hood1 !1 ^u ,engli% copes1 h[ %ap$1 #da4 ,hoods ( copes1 #b1 #c1 #da1 #add1 #aih1 #bfj1 #bgb4 1 or ,horologion1 "o ( ! ,greek ritual books quot$1 #agb4 ,hotel de ,b\rg!r\d at ,r\51 #bid4 ,,hoh5/auf51 ,h\se (1 #bi1 #ch4 ,h\s+1 #bjd4 ,,hunsdon1 ,"l1 gave silk /ock+s to ,que5 ,elizabe?1 #bjj4 ,illum9at$ ,,mss41 gauze betwe5 leaves (1 #eg4 ,inc>nation1 my/]y (1 h[ symboliz$1 #bcf4 ,indian embroid]y1 #ad4 ,initials-- ,two ,c's int]lac$1 #e1 #ch4 ,g1 #bcf4 ,l & ,k1 #gc4 ,r1 #eb4 ,v1 f\r ,v's put crosswise1 #bh4 ,inscriptions1 #bjf1 #bad1 #bbc1 #bbf1 #bej1 #beg1 #bfe1 #bfi1 #bgj1 #bgc4 ,inscriptions 9 ,arabic1 see ,arabic4 ---- 9 ,g]man1 #ic1 #bef1 #bif4 ---- 9 ,greek 7,cyrillian lett]s71 #agb4 ---- 9 ,lat91 #ca1 #fb1 #ff1 #hj1 #hb1 #hi1 #aaa1 #aai1 #adh1 #aff1 #agf1 #ahg1 #bja1 #bjf1 #baj1 #baa1 #bbc1 #bbf1 #beg1 #bfd1 #bfe1 #bfi1 #cje1 #cbi4 ----1 m$ival1 ,g]man1 #bif1 #bih4 ,,isaias quot$1 #bha4 ,italian alt>-frontals1 #hg1 #aja1 #bic4 ---- b$-quilt1 #bic4 ---- cut-"w appli$1 #ag1 #bj1 #bic4 ---- silk damask1 #aa1 #ac1 #ae1 #be1 #cc1 #df1 #ef1 #eh1 #fj1 #gc1 #gd1 #ha1 #aae1 #abi1 #acj1 #acf1 #afb1 #afc1 #afe1 #aif1 #bjf1 #bbg1 #bcj1 #bcc1 #bci1 #bdj1 #bdb1 #bef1 #beh4 ---- damask1 9 silk brocad$ ) gold1 #ac1 #df1 #ef1 #eh1 #fj1 #aag1 #afb1 #afe1 #agj1 #agf1 #bac1 #bcc1 #bce4 ---- silk1 damask$ 9 gold1 #agg1 #aha1 #ahc1 #bda4 ---- 9 silv]1 #ahc4 ,italian silk1 damask$ 9 silk & cotton1 #cg1 #fj1 #aha1 #bcj1 #bfb4 ---- 9 silk & hemp1 #afd4 ---- 9 silk & l951 #cg1 #abd1 #acj1 #agf1 #bjd1 #bdc4 ---- embroid]y1 #d1 #ab1 #cd1 #eh1 #hg1 #ia1 #aja1 #abj1 #aba1 #bdd1 #bic4 ---- fr+e1 #bic4 ---- lace1 7silk71 #bga4 ---- net-"w1 #c1 #d1 #aja1 #afb4 ---- quilt+1 #ad4 ---- sat91 #ad4 ---- velvet 9 silk1 #i1 #ag1 #fb1 #gj1 #gb1 #hh4 ---- velvet 9 silk1 rais$1 #fb1 #hj1 #hg1 #hi1 #ahe1 #aid1 #beh4 ---- velvet 9 wor/$1 #ab4 ---- web1 #bba4 ,,james ,i1 #bgc4 ,,jameson1 ,mrs4 quot$1 #aih4 ,j]usalem1 ! two />s1 symbols (1 #ee4 ,john ,dory1 fi% s call$1 #aea4 ,jub9al's "w on tape/ry notic$1 #hf4 ,,k5n$y1 ,m>g>et1 "o ( ! ladies 9 wait+ on ,m>y ,que5 ( ,scots at h] behead+1 #bjc4 ,keys1 ,/4 ,pet]'s1 "o gold1 ! o!r silv]1 #f4 ,,knight's ,hi/ory ( ,engl& quot$1 #bjc4 ,knot1 ! ,b\*i]1 #afh4 ---- ! ,wake & ,ormonde1 #bej4 ,knots1 #afj1 #bbi1 #bdd4 ---- petty1 #abj1 #adf4 ----1 love1 #abc1 #aeg4 ,krak51 ! ,sc&9avian fabl$ sea-mon/]1 #bcf4 ,lace1 old ,engli%1 #f4 ---- gold1 #f1 #aca1 #afj1 #aig1 #bdi4 ---- nuns'1 s call$1 #gc4 ---- op5-work$1 #ac4 ---- silk1 #bda1 #bga4 ---- silk1 & velvet1 #he4 ----1 wor/$1 #bdi4 ----1 wooll5 & l951 = c>riage-trimm+s1 #aia4 ,lama d'oro1 or clo? ( gold1 #bjd4 ,lamb1 ,holy1 #eh4 ,languages1 see 8,inscriptions40 ,languages-- ,g]man m$ival1 #bif1 #bih4 ,lat9 rite1 #ahg4 ,lappet ( a mitre1 #ea4 ,lap-clo?s1 bi%op's1 #ai1 #bj4 ,lavabo clo?s1 #bjc4 ,lea!r gilt1 & us$ z edg+1 #fe1 #gh4 ,lect]n clo?s or veils1 #bj1 #ada1 #ade1 #baj1 #bfa4 ,leg5d1 ! ,engli% ,gold51 quot$1 #bge1 #bgg4 ----1 ! ,gold51 translat$ by ,caxton1 quot$1 #bgh1 #bhd1 #bhe4 1 #aac4 ,l5t1 & ,passion-tide1 liturgic col\rs =1 #cf1 #acc4 ,l5t5 ve/m5ts1 #acc4 8,lett]s10 ! 8,pa/on10 notic$1 #bhi4 ,l951 or byssus1 #be1 #aeb1 #age1 #bci4 ---- diap]1 #fa4 ----1 embroid]$1 #bi1 #fe1 #ga1 #aha1 #ahe1 #aij1 #bce1 #bdb1 #bdf1 #bdi1 #bej1 #bea1 #bee1 #bef4 ---- & gold tissue1 #afi4 ----1 pr9t$1 #aah1 #abj1 #ahc1 #ahd1 #bcd4 ---- & wooll51 #bdf4 ,lion1 ! symbol ( ,*ri/1 #aef4 ,liturgical appliances1 ( r>e occurr5ce 9 public collections1 #ii1 #aab1 #abj1 #adb1 #aga1 #agd1 #ahd1 #ahf1 #ahh1 #aif1 #bjb1 #bje1 #baj1 #bdb1 #bdc1 #bej1 #bfc4 ,loaf1 see ,holy ,loaf4 ---- holy1 :at1 #bfc4 ,,loke1 ! ,sc&9avian god1 #aea4 ,lomb>dy1 once fam\s = its opus araneum1 or cobweb weav+1 #afb4 ,london wr\ght /uffs1 #afa4 ,"l1 our1 h[ figur$ on ! cross1 #bgf4 ,l\vre1 museum (1 silks 91 #dd4 ,love knots1 #aeg4 ,lucca damask$ silks1 #ae1 #ej1 #fe1 #ade1 #afc1 #bce1 #bdd4 ---- damask$ silk1 brocad$ 9 gold1 #bdc4 ---- velvets1 #fb1 #gb1 #aib1 #bei4 ,,lydgate quot$1 #bhh4 ,lyons1 damask$ silk1 #ai1 #bj1 #ia1 #aje4 ----1 brocad$ 9 gold & silv]1 #ia4 ----1 9 silv]1 #ai4 ,m1 ! lett] figur$ on /uffs1 #aef1 #aff1 #ahb1 #bbb1 #bcj1 #bda4 ,madonna del ,c>dell9o1 #bae4 ---- della ,c9tola1 subject (1 h[ treat$ 9 ! ,italian s*ools1 #bfg4 ,magdal5 ,college1 ,ox=d1 & its build] ,waneflete's f9e liturgical %oes1 #df4 8,man ( ,sorr[s10 our ,"l z !1 #cd4 ,,m&eville1 ,sir ,john's1 travels1 quot$1 #agh4 ,maniples1 #ce1 #ch1 #de1 #df1 #ec1 #hh1 #aaf1 #aba1 #ach1 #aef1 #beb1 #bib4 ,,m>ck1 ,,de ,,la1 armorial be>+s ( ! ,h\se (1 #bb4 ,m>gu]ite1 ,la1 :at ! fl[] signifies1 #adi4 ,,m>t9's 7,p]e71 le>n$ & valuable "w--8,mlanges d',ar*ologie10 quot$1 #dd1 #acj4 ,m>y1 ! ,b4 ,v41 h] assumption1 h[ figur$ on ! ,syon cope1 #bgf4 ---- on ,flor5t9e textiles1 #bia4 ,see 8,assumption40 ----1 ,b4 ,v41 ! dea? & burial (1 h[ figur$ on ! ,syon cope1 #bgg4 ----1 ,/41 ( ,egypt1 h] leg5d figur$1 #ed4 ---- ,que5 ( ,scots1 & ! clo? ov] h] face :5 %e 0 behead$1 #bjc4 ,mass ( ! ,presanctifi$1 #aac4 ,matilda1 ! ,norman ,william's que51 & ! ,bayeux s-call$ tape/ry1 #g4 ,maundy ,?ursday1 mass on1 #aab1 #aid4 ,mel*iz$ek & ,abram1 figur$1 #hh1 #cbh4 ,meml+ & 8 s*ool ( pa9t+1 #aih4 ,,m]c,,ur1 ,h\se (1 #cj4 ,mi*ael ! ar*angel1 h[ figur$1 ov]com+ ,satan1 #cj1 #bge4 ,midg>d1 ! ,sc&9avian fabl$ s]p5t1 #aea4 ,milan1 fam$ = its looms1 #afb4 ,milanese embroid]y1 #c4 ---- lace1 #aig4 ---- net-"w1 #bjj4 ---- /eel-"w1 #c4 ---- velvet rais$1 #g4 ,missal-cu%ion1 #adb4 ,missal1 ! ,roman1 quot$1 #adb4 ---- ! ,salisbury1 quot$1 #bhd4 ,mitre1 lappets (1 #ea1 #he4 ,mon/rance = liturgical use1 :at1 #ahd4 ,moon1 cresc5t1 #bbj1 #bdc4 ---- cresc5t1 symbolism (1 #bhh4 ---- figur$ 9 pictures ( ! ,crucifixion1 #cj4 ,moori% tissue1 #abc4 ,moresque1 ,spani%1 #ea1 #ee1 #aba1 #abd1 #abe1 #aeb1 #afj1 #ahj1 #bdj1 #bdd4 ,moslem use1 /uffs =1 #eg1 #fa4 ,mund or ball1 s call$1 #bgf4 ---- h[ anci5tly divid$1 #bgf4 ,muni*1 ! ,maximilian museum at1 #aec1 #aed4 ,murano & its manufacture ( beads1 #afi4 ,murrey-col\r lik$ 9 ! m$ival p]iod by ! ,engli%1 #i4 ,musical in/rum5ts1 m$ival1 #bc1 #aeg4 ,my?ology1 ,sc&9avian1 #aej4 ,nap]y-- ,flemi%1 #cd1 #fa1 #gc1 #ge1 #abd1 #bjc1 #bje1 #bee1 #bfc4 ,g]man1 #fb4 ,napk9s = crozi]1 #agd1 #bej4 ---- embroid]$1 #ii1 #ajj1 #aja1 #bfa4 ,napk9 ( l951 #ce4 ---- = pyx1 #bjb1 #bfj4 ,neapolitan embroid]y1 #ac4 ---- silk1 #ac4 ,,neckam1 ,,alex&]1 quot$1 #bhf4 ,ne$lework1 #gi1 #ii1 #ajj1 #aja1 #bfb4 ---- old ,engli%1 ! admir$ 8opus ,anglicum10 #adg1 #bge1 #bha1 #bhh4 ---- old ,engli%1 h[ to be kn[n1 #bhh4 ,net-"w1 #c1 #d1 #fa1 #aja1 #ajg1 #age1 #bjj1 #bde4 ,newburg1 ne> ,vi5na1 robes at1 #ch4 ,newm>ket1 k+'s h\se at1 #cjb2 tape/ries f1 #cjb4 ,n9eveh sculptures1 #be1 #abb4 ,numb]s1 ,book (1 quot$1 #bhh4 ,nuns' lace1 #gc4 ,nuremb]g1 old tape/ry wr\ght at1 #bih4 ,nurs]y rhymes1 old ,engli%1 #ajc4 ,o1 !1 or z]o =m ( ornam5tation1 #bbe1 #bbg1 #bbh4 ,,oakd51 ,,ralf1 ,esq41 gift ( old ,engli% embroid]$ app>els1 #adg4 ,odilia1 a ,fr5* lady-embroid]ess1 #cj4 ,opus ,anglicum1 #bge1 #bha1 #bhh4 ---- ,araneum1 #afb1 #baj4 ---- ,plum>ium1 #bhh1 #bhi4 ,ori5tal damask$ silk1 #be1 #abh1 #acb1 #acf1 #adj1 #aed1 #aee1 #afj1 #bea4 ---- brocad$ 9 gold1 #be1 #acc1 #acg1 #ach1 #aea1 #aef4 ---- mod]n damask$ silk1 #ba4 ---- brocad$ 9 gold & silv]1 #ba4 ---- v f9e l951 or byssus1 #bci4 ,orphreys1 embroid]$1 #a1 #f1 #ba1 #bi1 #ee1 #fh1 #gf1 #hb1 #aag1 #abj1 #adc1 #ade1 #afh1 #ahi1 #bdd1 #bde1 #bdg1 #beb1 #bec1 #bed1 #bei1 #bfe4 ---- ( web1 or wov5 /uff = ! purpose1 #bh1 #cc1 #fa1 #fb1 #fh1 #hj1 #hc1 #hi1 #aab1 #aaf1 #aah1 #aai1 #acf1 #adc1 #afa1 #agd1 #age1 #aia1 #bja1 #bjg1 #bjh1 #beb1 #bec1 #bfe1 #bia4 ,orphrey web1 ,v5etian1 #ga1 #aab1 #bga1 #bgb4 ,orvieto1 alt>-frontal f1 #aja4 ,,osmont's 8,volucraire10 or ,book on ,birds1 #bhf4 ,o/ri*-fea!rs figur$1 #ai1 #abi4 ,pal]mo1 /uffs wov5 at1 #ch1 #dd1 #de1 #ec1 #acj1 #aca1 #aci1 #aej1 #afc1 #afe1 #agj1 #bbh1 #bcb4 ---- its 8,tiraz10 or silk-h\se1 #bcb4 ,pall or palls1 :at1 #aid1 #aif4 ---- or liturgical palls1 #aif4 ,palls = ca/+ ov] tombs 9 *ur*es1 #ef4 ,palm-bran* c>ri$ by ,/4 ,john ,evangeli/ at ! burial ( ! ,b4 ,v4 ,m>y1 #bgh4 ---- held by ! ,jew z figur$ on ! ,syon cope1 #bhj4 ,,p&olf9i1 armorials ( ! family (1 #adc4 ,pap]1 gilt & /amp$ out l fl[]s pa/$ on silk5 /uffs1 #dc4 ,papyonns1 or *eetahs1 #aed1 #agh4 ,p>*m5t1 gilt1 #adj1 #bbd1 #bbi1 #bdd4 ---- gilt & wov5 into silk5 /uffs1 #acb1 #adj1 #bbd1 #bbi1 #bdd2 ! trade trick le>n$ f ! ,moors by ! s\!rn ,spani>ds1 #bdd4 ,p>rots2 see ,zoology--,birds4 8,pa/on ,lett]s0 notic$1 #bhi4 ,pa/oral amusem5ts1 #bie1 c4 ---- lit]ature1 #bid4 ,paul's1 ,s4 ca!dral1 ,london1 ve/m5ts once belong+ to1 #aea4 ,peacock1 oa?s sworn by !1 #bhg4 ---- symbolism ( !1 #bhf1 c4 ,p$alia or ,p$e-clo?s1 #bji1 #baj1 #bfc4 ,p]sian c>pet+1 #hc4 ---- damask1 silk brocad$ 9 gold1 #acc4 ---- damask1 silk & wor/$1 #hd4 ---- embroid]y1 #bgj4 ---- sat91 #bgj4 ---- tunic1 #bgj4 ,pet]'s1 ,/41 fi%1 #aea4 ,p91 an old "o 7871 #bed4 ,,pitra1 ,dom1 n[ ,c>d9al1 quot$1 #bhf4 ,pity1 ! s-call$1 ( ,/4 ,gregory1 :at1 #cd1 #aid4 ,plum>ium ,opus1 :at1 #bhh1 #bhi4 ,pomegranate2 see ,botany--,fruits4 ---- ensign ( ,que5 ,ca!r9e ( ,arragon1 #acd4 ---- ensign ( ,spa91 especially ( ,granada1 #g4 ---- symbolic mean+ (1 #ac4 ,poly/auria or /uffs figur$ all ov] ) ! sign ( ! cross1 #afa4 ,porphyreticum1 :at1 #aee4 ,p\*1 #c4 ,prato1 *ur* (1 #bfa4 ,presanctifi$1 mass (1 #aac4 ,pr9t+ by block1 on silk1 #ca1 c42 see ,block pr9t+4 ,psalms1 ,book (1 quot$1 #bha4 ,purses1 #c1 #hi1 #ajf4 ---- liturgical1 #ahh1 #bfc4 ,pyx clo?1 #bjb1 #bfj4 ,quilt+1 #ad1 #af4 ---- ,engli%1 #af4 ,quilts1 #d1 #e1 #ac1 #ad1 #af1 #hf1 #ajd1 #bic4 ,r1 ! lett]1 wr\ght ^u a silk5 /uff1 #eb4 ,ra9-drops1 %[] (1 #eb1 #ed1 #bci1 c4 ,,ra9e1 ,mr41 8 ,/4 ,cu?b]t1 notic$1 #bje4 ,,raphael's ,madonna del ,c>dell9o1 #bae4 ,,rebecca meet+ ,,abraham's s]vant at ! well1 figur$ 9 tape/ry1 #ccc4 ,relics1 bag =1 #db4 ,r]$os ( embroid]$ l951 #ec1 #bce4 ,resurrection1 h[ figur$ on wov5 /uffs1 #aac1 #bgb4 ---- ( our ,"l1 h[ embroid]$ ^u ! ,syon cope1 #bgf4 ,rh5i% cut or appli$ "w1 #ba1 #beh4 ---- embroid]y1 #b1 #eb1 #bdg1 #beh4 ,ribbon1 gre5 silk & gold ?read1 #aba4 ,,ri*>d ,,ii4's monum5tal effigy 9 ,we/m9/] ,abbey1 #bfi4 ,rite1 ,greek1 notic$1 #aac1 #abd1 #abf1 #aga1 #aia1 #bje4 ---- ,lat91 #aac1 #abd1 #agb1 #ahg1 #ahh1 #aia1 #aid1 #bje4 ,rock cry/al1 balls (1 us$ on ve/m5ts1 #bjf4 ,romance1 !1 ( ,sir ,guy ( ,w>wick1 figur$1 #gg4 ,ros>y-beads1 #bfc4 ,rose ( ,engl&1 #acd4 ---- r$ & :ite1 #ahh4 ,,rov]e ,,della1 family (1 #aae4 ,ru!nic "w1 #aga4 ,saddle-bags1 #hd4 ,saddle-clo?1 #bjd4 ---- ,sa9ts1 figur$ ,s4 ,&rew1 ,apo/le1 #aeh1 #bgi4 ,s4 ,ann1 "m ( ! ,b4 ,v4 ,m>y1 #adg1 c4 ,s4 ,an?ony ( ,egypt1 #bec1 #bed4 ,s4 ,b>?olomew1 ,apo/le1 #bgj4 ,s4 ,b]n>d1 #aih4 ,s4 ,b]n>d's life1 #aih4 ,/4 ,blase1 #ch4 ,s4 ,ca!r9e ( ,alex&ria1 #bec4 ,s4 ,*ri/9a1 & h] life1 #adb4 ,s4 ,doro?y1 #baa4 ,santa ,francesca ,romana1 & h] life1 #ib4 ,s4 ,james1 ,apo/le1 call$ ( ,compo/ella1 #bhj4 ,s4 ,james ! ,less1 ,apo/le1 #bhj4 ,s4 ,j]ome1 #adb4 ,s4 ,john1 ,evangeli/1 #adb1 #ade1 #bgf1 c4 ,s4 ,kilian or ,kuln1 #ahg4 ,s4 ,l\is1 ,k+ ( ,france1 #add4 ,s4 ,lucy1 #adb1 #baa4 ,s4 ,m>k1 ,evangeli/1 #aaa4 ,s4 ,m>y1 ,b4 ,v41 #adh1 #baj1 #baa1 #bcf1 #bea1 #bfj1 #bgb1 #bgc1 #bgf1 #bgi4 ,/4 ,m>y ( ,egypt1 #ed4 ,s4 ,m>y ,magdal51 #cj1 #bji1 #baa1 #bhj4 ,s4 ,mi*ael1 ,ar*angel1 #cj1 #bge4 ,s4 ,odilia1 #ahg4 ,s4 ,onuphrius1 h]mit1 #b4 ,s4 ,paul1 ,apo/le1 #adf1 #bgh1 #bgi4 ,s4 ,pet]1 ,apo/le1 #ade1 #adi1 #bgh1 #bgi4 ,s4 ,philip1 ,apo/le1 #adi1 #bhj4 ,s4 ,simon1 ,apo/le1 #adi1 #baj4 ,s4 ,/eph51 /on+ (1 #f1 #ch4 ,s4 ,?omas1 ,apo/le1 #bgi1 #bhj2 see 8,girdle at ,prato40 ,s4 ,ubaldo1 #ajb4 ,s4 ,ursula1 #baa1 #bdg4 ,sa9ts' tombs1 #ef4 ,salisbury rite1 notic$1 #cd1 #cf4 ,,sampson slay+ ! lion1 figur$1 #abc4 ,s>ac5ic damask1 #abg1 #agh1 #bdd4 ,sa%es1 #ba4 ,sat91 #h1 #i1 #ac1 #ad1 #af1 #bj1 #aaj1 #aac4 ----,fr5*1 #aaj4 ---- ,italian1 #aac4 ,sc&9avian my?ology1 #aej4 ,sc>f1 #ah4 ---- liturgical1 #aje4 ,,s*,n ,,m>t91 #bjg4 ,s*ool1 ,umbrian1 ( pa9t+1 #ahd1 #ahf4 ---- ( ,umbria = pa9t+1 #bdg2 & its beauty1 #bdg4 ,sclaves1 #agb4 ,scot* embroid]y1 #bgc4 ,,scott1 ,,sir ,,walt]1 quot$1 #c4 ,scull-cap1 #af4 ,,%aw's 8,dresses & ,decorations ( ! ,middle ,ages10 quot$1 #hf4 ,%oe1 liturgical1 #df4 ,%[] ( ra9-drops1 figur$1 #ed1 #bci4 ,sicilian /uffs1 #bh1 #bi1 #cb1 #cg1 #ch1 #ci1 #dj1 #da1 #dc1 #dd1 #de1 #df1 #dg1 #dh1 #di1 #ej1 #ea1 #eb1 #ec1 #gf1 #aae1 #abg1 #acj1 #acb1 #acg1 #aci1 #adf1 #aej1 #aed1 #aef1 #aeh1 #aei1 #afc1 #afd1 #afe1 #afg1 #afh1 #afi1 #agh1 #agi1 #ahj1 #bae1 #bbb1 #bbc1 #bbd1 #bbe1 #bbf1 #bbg1 #bbh1 #bbi1 #bcj1 #bca1 #bcd1 #bch1 #bci1 #bdb1 #bde1 #bff1 #bfh1 #bfi1 #bgd4 ,sicilian c5dal1 #afc4 ---- damasks1 figur$ ) bea/s & fl[]s1 #dg1 #ej1 #ea1 #eb1 #ec1 #abg1 #acj1 #acg1 #aci1 #adf1 #aej1 #afd1 #aff1 #agh1 #agi1 #bfi4 ---- damasks 9 silk1 #cb1 #ec1 #gf1 #aae1 #acb1 #acg1 #aef1 #aei1 #afc1 #afh1 #afi1 #ahj1 #bae1 #bbf1 #bbg1 #bci1 #bde1 #bgd4 ---- damasks 9 silk1 brocad$ 9 gold1 #bh1 #bi1 #cg1 #ch1 #ci1 #dj1 #da1 #dc1 #de1 #df1 #dg1 #ej1 #ea1 #eb1 #ec1 #abf1 #acj1 #aci1 #adf1 #aej1 #aei1 #afd1 #afe1 #afg1 #afh1 #bbd1 #bbg1 #bbh1 #bca1 #bcb1 #bcd1 #bch1 #bdb1 #bff1 #bfh1 #bfi4 ---- damasks1 silk & cotton1 #da1 #dd1 #bcj4 ---- damasks1 silk & cotton1 brocad$ 9 gold1 #ci1 #de1 #dh4 ---- damasks1 9 silk & ?read1 #aed1 #bbc4 ---- damasks1 silk & ?read1 brocad$ 9 gold1 #dh1 #di1 #bch4 ---- damasks 9 l95 ?read1 brocad$ 9 gold1 #afi4 ---- damask or tape/ry1 silk1 cotton1 & wool1 #aeh4 ---- embroid]y1 #adi1 #aeh1 #aei4 ---- lace1 silk1 & gold1 #afj1 #afa4 ---- taffeta1 #ge1 #aba4 ---- tissue or web1 #bbb4 ,silk-h\se1 or ,tiraz1 at ,pal]mo1 #bcb4 ,silk gauze1 #eg4 ,silks1 block-pr9t$1 #ca4 ,silk mix$ ) cotton1 #e1 #bd1 #bf1 #bg1 #cc1 #cg1 #ci1 #da1 #db1 #dc1 #dd1 #dg1 #fj1 #abf1 #aeb1 #aha1 #bai1 #bbf4 ---- mix$ ) l951 #bg1 #cc1 #cg1 #abb1 #abc1 #abd1 #agf1 #aib1 #bbj1 #bbc4 ---- wor/$1 #hd1 #aad2 see ,damask4 ---- net-"w1 #bjj4 ,silv]smi?'s "w amid embroid]y1 #afh1 #afi1 #ahf1 #aii1 #bbc1 #bcc4 ,s9don1 ! ,greek liturgical embroid]y1 s-call$1 #agj4 ---- or pyx-clo? ( ! old ,engli% ritual1 #bjb1 #bfj4 ,sorr[s1 ,man (1 our ,"l figur$ z1 #cd4 ---- ! ,b4 ,v4 ,m>y1 (1 #fi4 ,,so!n]1 ,,ma/] ,,/eph51 & 8 f9e picture 9 ,cologne ca!dral1 #ahg4 ,spangles1 #ahf1 #aij1 #bbc4 ,spani% c>pet+1 #bji1 #bdh4 ---- cro*et "w1 #bj4 ---- damask$ silk1 #cf1 #dh1 #fg1 #gb1 #gc1 #gd1 #aae1 #aba1 #abf1 #abh1 #abi1 #afh1 #ahb1 #baf1 #bbd1 #bbe1 #bdj1 #bdh4 ,spani% damasks1 brocad$ 9 gold1 #ej1 #fb1 #ff1 #aaf1 #acb1 #aic1 #bbi4 ----1 9 silv]1 #agg4 ---- embroid]y1 #fe1 #ha1 #bjd4 ,spani%-,moresco /uffs1 #ea1 #aba1 #abd1 #abe1 #aeb1 #afj1 #ahj1 #bda1 #bdd4 ---- net-"w1 #bj4 ---- /uffs1 cotton & l951 #bbd4 ----1 l951 & gilt p>*m5t1 #adj1 #bbd4 ----1 silk & cotton1 #bf1 #dg1 #aff4 ----1 l951 #abb1 #aff4 ---- ( wool & hemp1 #bji4 ---- ( wool & ?read1 #aad4 ---- taffetas1 #dg4 ---- velvets1 #ha1 #ace1 #ahi1 #bjg1 #bia1 #bib4 ,,sp5s] quot$1 #fd4 ,spicilegium ,solesm5se quot$1 #bhf4 ,spid]1 figur$1 #ahb4 ,/> & ,cresc5t1 _! symbolism1 #bhe4 ,/>1 symbolism (1 #ee1 #bgb1 #bhe4 ,/aurac91 #abd1 #abg1 #afj1 #afa4 8,/ella ,m>is10 or 8,/> ( ! ,sea10 "o ( ! old symbolical attributes ( ! ,b4 ,v4 ,m>y1 #bgb4 ,/ate cap1 #hf4 ,/aurac9a1 :at1 #abd1 #afa4 ,/5cil$ sat91 #aac4 ,/it*]y ( a f9e k9d1 #d1 #g1 #ai4 ,/ock+s1 silk1 "o ( ! fir/ pair made 9 ,engl&1 giv5 to ,que5 ,elizabe?1 & n[ belong+ to ! ,m>quis ( ,salisbury1 #bjj4 ,/oles1 #bd1 #dd1 #eh1 #ach1 #ahe1 #bbb1 #bce4 ----1 #eh1 #aba1 #aia4 ,/ones1 preci\s1 us$1 #ha1 #hb1 #aii4 ,,/o?>d1 ,,mrs41 #g4 ,/rap-%ap$ ornam5tation on textiles1 z well z 9 bookb9d+s1 #bja4 ,/uffs1 loom-wr\ght1 ) hi/ory-pieces1 #bga1 #bgb4 ,/uffs1 c41 ,( ! ,adoration ( ! ,magi or ?ree ,k+s1 #ahf4 ,( ,angels1 #adb1 #adc4 ---- hold+ cresc5ts1 #bcd4 ---- a mon/rance1 #ahd4 ,( ,angels sw++ ?uribles1 & c>ry+ cr[ns ( ?orns & crosses 9 _! h&s1 #cf4 ,( ! ,annunciation1 #bdg4 ,( ! ,assumption ( ! ,b4 ,v4 ,m>y1 #bgb1 #bgc4 ,/uffs figur$ )-- ,bea/s1 #e1 #be1 #cb1 #da1 #db1 #dc1 c4 ,birds1 #bf1 #bh1 #bi1 #cb1 #cg1 #da1 #db4 ,m5 & bea/s1 #abb4 ,) a ,*9ese subject1 #ge4 ,( ! coronation 9 heav5 ( ! ,b4 ,v4 ,m>y1 #bgb4 ,( ,emblems ( ! ,passion1 #acc4 ,figur$ ) fl[]s & fruits1 #aa1 #ac1 #ae1 #da1 #db4 ,( a k+ on horseback1 ) hawk on h&1 c41 #bbc4 ,( a man or woman ) hawk on wri/1 #bcc4 ,( ! ,b4 ,v4 ,m>y1 ) our ,"l z a *ild 9 h] arms1 or on h] lap1 #fc1 #ga1 #bga1 #bgb4 ,( ,/4 ,m>y ( ,egypt1 #ed4 ,( ,/4 ,pet]1 apo/le1 #acf4 ,( ! resurrection4 ,( ,sampson ov]com+ ! lion1 #abb4 ,( wom5 ga!r+ dates1 #afe4 ,subdeacon's liturgical veil worn ov] ! %\ld]s1 #add4 ,sud>y ( our ,"l1 #bf4 ,sun-beams & ra9-drops figur$1 #ed1 #bci4 ,sun & moon figur$ 9 art-works ( ! ,crucifixion1 #cj4 ,surplices1 #bci4 ---- ( transp>5t l951 #bci4 ,symbolism1 #adi1 #bcf1 #bcg1 #bgb1 #bgf1 #bhe1 #caa1 #cbi1 #ccj1 #cca1 #ccb4 ,syon ,nunn]y1 beautiful cope once belong+ to1 #bge4 ,syrian crape drap]$ ) a patt]n1 #abf4 ---- /uffs1 #abe1 #abg1 #aci1 #bac1 #bae1 #baf1 #bba4 ---- damask 9 silk & cotton1 #bd1 #aeb4 ---- damask1 silk & gold1 #abb1 #agh1 #ahj1 #bch4 ---- damask1 silk & l95 ?read1 #db1 #acf1 #bbj4 ,table-cov]s1 #af1 #ai1 #ib1 #ajh1 #ada4 ,taffeta1 #dg4 ---- ,egyptian1 #ef1 #eg4 ---- ,sicilian1 #ge1 #aba4 ,tangi] /uff1 #abc4 ,tape/ry1 #f1 #aeh1 #bid1 c4 ,tape/ry-- ,engli%1 #cjf4 ,flemi%1 #bid1 #bii1 #cjj1 #cja1 #cjb1 #cjc1 #cjg1 #cbh1 #cbi1 #ccc4 ,fr5*1 #cjb1 #cjc1 #cjd1 #cje1 #cjf1 #cjg1 #cji4 ,g]man1 #bif1 #bih4 ,tassels on dalmatics1 #bjf4 ,,taylor's 8,glory ( ,regality10 quot$1 #aec4 ,tetuan /uff1 #abc4 ,,?aun1 ,,phillippe ,,de1 quot$1 #bcf4 ,! ,?ree ,wise ,m51 clo!d & cr[n$ z k+s go+ to ,be?lehem1 #adh4 ,,?ornell ( ,suffolk1 arms (1 #adh4 ,?read embroid]y1 #ai1 #bj1 #ec1 #eh4 ,?rone-room 9 ,roman pr9cely h\ses1 #hg1 #ajg4 ,tiles1 glaz$ = pav+1 #ahc4 ,tiraz or silk-h\se at ,pal]mo1 #bcb4 ,,tobit1 ! eld]1 s5d+ 8 son to ,rages1 figur$1 #cce4 ,toca1 :at1 #bjd4 ,tombs 9 *ur*es1 palls = ?r[+ ov]1 #ef4 ,trimm+ = c>riages1 #aia4 ---- ve/m5ts1 #aic4 ,tunicle1 #adc4 ,turki% net1 #fa4 ,tyrian purple1 s call$1 #aee1 #aei1 #afj1 #bai4 ,! ,u =m ( ornam5tation1 #bbg1 #bbh4 ,unicorn1 hunt+ ( !1 #ec1 #bcf4 ,umbrian s*ool ( pa9t+1 #ahd1 #ahf1 #bdg4 ,v1 ! lett]1 put cross-wise1 #bh4 ,vallombrosa1 book f ! mona/]y at1 #hg4 ,v>nicle or ,v]nicle1 #aih1 #bdh4 ,vas>i1 quot$1 #bfa4 ,veil = lect]n1 #bj1 #ada1 #ade1 #bab1 #bfa4 ,veil or sc>f worn ov] 8 %\ld]s by ! subdeacon1 #add1 #ade4 ,velvet1 brocad$ 9 gold1 #fb1 #fe1 #he1 #ajg1 #acd1 #ace1 #add1 #ahe1 #ahi1 #aic1 #aih1 #bei4 ,velvet1 cut & appli$1 #ag1 #bj4 ---- embroid]$1 #aih1 #bjj1 #bjd4 ---- figur$1 #ag1 #fb1 #ace1 #aib1 #aic1 #bjg4 ---- freckl$ ) gold5 loops1 #beg4 ----1 pile ^u pile1 #a1 #beg4 ----1 pla91 #b1 #c1 #i1 #ad1 #adc1 #aii1 #bjd1 #bjf4 ----1 rais$1 #d1 #ah1 #fb1 #fe1 #fi1 #gj1 #gb1 #hj1 #hb1 #hg1 #hi1 #ij1 #ajg1 #aaj1 #acd1 #ace1 #add1 #ade1 #ahe1 #aic1 #bjj1 #bed1 #bef1 #beg1 #beh1 #bfc4 ----1 ,engli%1 see ,brooke ,collection1 #cab1 c4 ---- ,flemi%1 #bed1 #bee1 #bfd4 ---- ,flor5t9e1 #a1 #ah1 #hb1 #he1 #adb1 #add1 #ade1 #aih1 #bef1 #beg4 ---- ,fr5*1 #ad1 #hi1 #ajf4 ---- ,g5oa1 #c1 #ah1 #fb1 #ij1 #ajg1 #aaj1 #acd1 #ade1 #aib1 #aii1 #bjj1 #bfc4 ---- ,italian1 #fe1 #hi1 #ij1 #aii4 ---- ,lucca1 #fb1 #gb1 #aib1 #aih1 #bei4 ---- ,spani%1 #ha1 #ace1 #ahi4 ,v5etian beads1 #afi4 ---- damask1 #ed1 c4 ---- embroid]y1 #dd1 #afh4 ---- embroid]y 9 beads1 #afi4 ---- lace1 #ada4 ---- table-cov]s1 #ada4 ---- webs1 #ga1 #aab1 #bga1 #bgb4 ,ve/m5ts (t5 blazon$ ) armorial be>+ ( ^? :o gave !m1 #bb1 #adh1 #bad1 #bhb4 ----1 ,engli%1 #da1 #adf1 #bge4 ,,v9c5t1 ,,francois ,,&re1 #cjb4 ,,viollet1 ,,le ,,duc1 quot$1 #bab4 ,,virgilius1 subjects f1 figur$ 9 tape/ry1 #cjj1 #cja1 #cjb4 ,,wall]'s brasses1 notic$1 #aha4 ,,waneflete',s1 ,,bp41 liturgical %oes1 #df4 ,w>wick1 ,sir ,guy (1 & ! ,nor?umbrian dragon1 figur$1 #gi4 ,webs1 #bh1 #cc1 #fa1 #fb1 #fc1 #fd1 #ga1 #hj1 #aab1 #aaf1 #aag1 #aah1 #aai1 #acf1 #adc1 #afa1 #agd1 #age1 #aia1 #bja1 #bag1 #bba1 #bbb1 #bbc1 #beg1 #bfa1 #bga1 #bgb1 #bia4 ,wire ( pure metal gold1 or silv]1 #bbj4 ,wise m5 or ,magi1 adoration (1 figur$1 #c4 ,wire1 pure metal1 #bbj4 ,witsuntide1 /uff =1 9 ! ritual1 #bbf4 ,witsunday1 h[ signifi$1 #b4 ,worsley1 ,!1 sepul*ral brass1 #aha4 ,wor/$ & ?read1 #aad4 ---- "w1 #fa1 #gi4 ,,wyd]oyd1 ,pa/or ,s4 ,jacobi ,colon1 #ahi4 ,y1 ! cross s call$1 #ha1 #hb4 ,york1 clo? ( gold1 f\nd 9 a grave at ! ca!dral (1 #bea4 ,yprs1 #cd1 #fa1 #gc1 #ge4 ,zoology-- ,bea/s3 ,antelopes1 #df1 #dg1 #eb1 #bcd4 ,bo>s1 wild1 #ahj4 ,*eetahs1 or papyonns1 #gd1 #acf1 #acg1 #aed1 #agh1 #bae1 #bcd4 ,de]1 #ajh1 #bbf1 #bdb4 ,dogs1 #cc1 #db1 #de1 #ej1 #eb1 #abd1 #ach1 #aee1 #afe1 #afh1 #ahj1 #bbc1 #bcc1 #bda1 #ccf4 ,elephant1 #de2 & ca/le1 #agj4 ,gazelles1 #agi1 #bcd4 ,giraffes1 #bbe1 #bbh4 ,h>es1 #bdj1 #caj4 ,h>ts1 #da1 #db1 #dc1 #ea1 #aah4 ,h\nds1 #di1 #gf1 #afg4 ,leop>ds1 #aed1 #afc1 #afd1 #bad4 ,lions1 #bg1 #cj1 #cc1 #db1 #di1 #eg1 #aaa1 #abb1 #aca1 #acg1 #ach1 #adf1 #afe1 #agg1 #ahc1 #bah4 ,monkey1 #ajh1 #caj4 ,ox51 #bad4 ,pan!r1 #bej4 ,papyonns2 see *eetah4 ,squirrels1 #eh4 ,/ags1 #ec1 #ii1 #aff1 #ahj4 ,talbot1 or ,engli% blood-h\nd1 #bbc4 ,toad1 #caj4 ,weasel1 or /oat1 #caj4 ,wolf1 #aeh4 ,bea/s1 emblematic1 #adj1 #aef1 #afc1 #caa4 ,bea/s1 h]aldic1 #e1 #dj1 #da1 #df1 #dg1 #eb1 #ec1 #eh1 #ei1 #fj1 #aef1 #afa1 #bag1 #bah1 #bbh1 #bdf1 #bfg4 ,elephant & ,ca/le1 #agj4 ,griff9s1 #e1 #bi1 #cb1 #dj1 #dg1 #di1 #acj1 #aca1 #aed1 #aee4 ,leop>d1 n\$1 #afd4 ,libb>ds1 #bdj4 ,lion1 n\$1 #afe4 ,lioncels1 #e4 ,wyv]ns1 #dj1 #dg1 #aca1 #acc1 #aeh1 #aei1 #afc1 #afh1 #bbh4 ,bea/s1 mon/]s1 #c1 #be1 #cj1 #dj1 #da1 #db1 #ii1 #ajf1 #aej1 #aee1 #aeg1 #aeh1 #afj1 #agg1 #aha1 #bag1 #bah1 #bbb1 #bbf1 #bea4 ,krak51 #bcf4 ,m]maid1 #bea4 ,midg>d ,s]p5t1 #aea4 ,satyr1 #c4 ,sph9xes1 #aha4 ,! ,wolf ,f5rir1 #aea4 ,bea/s1 symbolical3 ,h>e1 ( man's s\l1 #bcg1 #caa4 ,lion1 ( ,*ri/1 #aef4 ,monkey1 ( mis*ief & lubricity1 #caa4 ,monoc]os or unicorn1 ( ,*ri/ z ,god-man1 #bcg4 ,birds3 ,cocks1 #ci4 ,cockatoos1 #acc1 #bbh4 ,cranes1 #afd4 ,doves1 #abd1 #bah1 #caj2 symbol ( love1 #caa4 ,ducks1 wild1 #bbi4 ,eagles1 #g1 #be1 #bf1 #dj1 #dc1 #ej1 #ea1 #gf1 #ha1 #abi1 #acg1 #ach1 #aeh1 #afc1 #afd1 #agh1 #ahj1 #ahc1 #bbi1 #bcb1 #bcc4 ,hawks1 #aee1 #aff1 #bbc1 #bbf1 #bcc4 ,hoopoes1 #de1 #acg1 #adf4 ,owls1 #c4 ,p>rots1 #aai1 #aca1 #aci1 #adj1 #aed1 #aei1 #aff1 #afh1 #bda1 #bdb1 #bdd4 ,peacocks1 #aed1 #bej4 ,pelican1 #bad4 ,pheasants1 #fj4 ,swans1 #di1 #aff1 #agi1 #bcb4 ,wild ducks1 #bbi4 ,birds1 h]aldic1 or mon/] ?+s ) w+s3 ,dragon1 #a4 ,eagle1 d\ble-head$1 #g1 #cg1 #hf4 ,griff9s1 #e1 #bi1 #cb1 #dj1 #dg1 #di1 #aca4 ,h>pies1 #cbi1 #ccj4 ,wyv]ns1 #dj1 #dg1 #aca1 #aeh1 #aei1 #afc1 #afh1 #bbh1 #ccj4 ,fi%1 #aea4 ----1 ,sr4 ,pet]'s1 ! ,italian ,gianitore1 or our ,john ,dory1 #aea4 ,insects3 ,butt]flies1 #af1 #dd1 #ff4 ,spid]1 #ahb4 ,%ells1 #g4 ,snakes1 #agg4 ,illu/ration ,,index ,,ii4 ,,geography ,,( ,,textiles4 ,,europe4 ,,engl&3 ,*9tz4 ,embroid]y4 ,quilt+4 ,sat9s4 ,silks4 ,tape/ry4 ,velvets4 ,webs1 ribbon-l4 ,,fl&]s3 ,embroid]y4 ,lace4 ,l951 block-pr9t$4 ,l951 damask$4 ,nap]y4 ,silk1 damask$4 ,tape/ry4 ,velvets4 ,,france3 ,clo? ( gold4 ,embroid]y4 ,lace 9 gold4 ,quilt+4 ,silks1 brocad$4 ,silks1 damask$4 ,tape/ry4 ,velvets4 ,webs4 ,,g]many3 ,cologne1 & o!r ,rh5i% t[ns3 ,embroid]y 9 silk1 9 ?read1 9 wor/$4 ,nap]y4 ,silk & l954 ,tape/ry4 ,velvet4 ,webs 9 silk1 9 silk & l954 ,,greece3 ,silks4 ,silks mix$ ) cotton4 ,silks mix$ ) l95 ?read4 ,byzant9e /uffs hi/ori$4 ,,italy3 ,flor5ce3 ,embroid]y4 ,silks1 damask$4 ,silks1 hi/ori$4 ,silks mix$ ) l954 ,velvets1 pile ^u pile4 ,velvets1 pla94 ,velvets wr\ght ) gold4 ,velvets rais$4 ,webs1 hi/ori$4 ,g5oa3 ,silks1 brocad$ 9 gold4 ,silks1 damask$4 ,velvets1 pla94 ,italian ,textiles1 c43 ,appli$ or cut-"w4 ,embroid]y4 ,fr+e4 ,lace4 ,quilt+4 ,sat9s4 ,sat9s1 brocad$ 9 gold & silv]4 ,silks1 brocad$ 9 gold4 ,silks1 damask$4 ,silks mix$ ) cotton4 ---- ) hemp4 ---- ) flax4 ,velvets rais$4 ,velvets ( silk4 ,velvets ( wor/$4 ,webs4 ,lomb>dy3 ,cob-web weav+4 ,lace4 ,lucca3 ,silks1 brocad$ 9 gold4 ,silks1 damask$4 ,velvets4 ,milan3 ,embroid]y4 ,lace4 ,velvets4 ,velvets1 rais$4 ,naples3 ,embroid]y4 ,silks4 ,reggio3 ,silks1 damask$4 ,sicily3 ,c5dal4 ,damasks 9 l951 brocad$ 9 gold4 ,embroid]y4 ,lace 9 silk & gold4 ,silks1 brocad$ 9 gold4 ,silks1 damask$4 ,silks mix$ ) cotton4 ,silks mix$ ) cotton & wool4 ,silks mix$ ) flax5 ?read4 ,silk taffeta4 ,silk webs4 ,v5ice3 ,embroid]y4 ,embroid]y 9 beads4 ,laces 9 gold4 ,silks1 damask$4 ,,spa93 ,c>pet+4 ,cro*et-"w4 ,embroid]y4 ,silks1 brocad$ 9 gold & silv]4 ,silks1 damask$4 ,silks mix$ ) gilt p>*m5t4 ,silks mix$ ) cotton & l95 ?read4 ,silks mix$ ) l95 ?read4 ,silks mix$ ) l95 ?read1 & gilt p>*m5ts4 ,/uffs ( wool & hemp4 ,/uffs ( wool & ?read4 ,taffetas4 ,velvets4 ,,asia4 ,,*9a3 ,embroid]y4 ,sat9s4 ,silks4 ,silks1 damask$4 ,,india3 ,embroid]y4 ,l954 ,,p]sia3 ,c>pet+4 ,embroid]y4 ,sat9s4 ,silks4 ,silks1 brocad$ 9 gold4 ,silks1 damask$4 ,silks mix$ ) wool4 ,,syria3 ,crape4 ,silks1 brocad$ 9 gold4 ,silks1 damask$4 ,silks mix$ ) cotton4 ,silks mix$ ) l954 ,,africa4 ,,algi]s3 ,embroid]y4 ,f9e l954 ,,egypt3 ,byssus or v f9e l954 ,gauze4 ,silks4 ,silks mix$ ) cotton4 ,taffetas4 ,,morocco3 ,tangi]3 ,silks4 ,tetuan3 ,silks4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,*iswick ,,press3--,,pr9t$ ,,by ,,:itt+ham ,,& ,,wilk9s1 ,,tooks ,,c\rt1 ,,*anc]y ,,lane4 ,transcrib]'s ,notes ,a numb] ( typographical errors 7 correct$ sil5tly4 ,cov] image 0 creat$ by ! transcrib] & is donat$ to ! public doma94 ,two small illu/rations 7 recreat$ by ! transcrib] & are donat$ to ! public doma94 ,fir/ index entry = emblematic bea/s correct$ to page #adj f page #aih4 ,!re are two items numb]$ #acgf4 ,! fir/ is probably correct z x ref]5ces a mat*+ image4