,transcriber's ,notes3-- ,italic text is clothed with underscores4 ,bold text is clothed with equal signs4 ,the spelling1 hyphenation1 punctuation and accentuation are as the original1 except for apparent typographical errors which have been corrected4 ,illustration3 ,courtesy of ,allen ,motor ,co4 ,,sectional ,,view ,,of ,a ,,modern ,,automobile ,,with ,,four-,,cylinder ,,engine ,putnam's ,automobile ,handbook ,the ,care and ,management of the ,modern ,motor-,car ,by ,h4 ,clifford ,brokaw ,principal ,and ,charles ,a4 ,starr ,of the ,staff of the ,automobile ,school of the ,west ,side ,young ,men's ,christian ,association of ,new ,york ,city ,illustrated ,g4 ,p4 ,putnam's ,sons ,new ,york and ,london ,the ,knickerbocker ,press #aiah ,,copyright1 #aiah ,,by ,g4 ,p4 ,,putnam',s ,,sons ,the ,knickerbocker ,press1 ,new ,york ,,foreword ,much of the material1 here assembled for the first time1 has been printed in the automobile section of ,new ,york ,city newspapers4 ,it has stood the scrutiny of the wisest men in the automobile trade and has been read eagerly by owners within the sphere of the newspapers' limited circulation2 some of it has been reprinted in papers all over the country1 which is evidence enough of its practical value4 ,the publication1 however1 has been without sequence and all of it has not appeared in any one paper4 ,moreover it has been reassembled and rewritten and much has been added to round out the story of the automobile and to adapt the material to the use of everyday men who do not understand or care for the more technical works4 ,it should not be taken as the last word concerning the auto4 ,that will not be written until after the automobile has been driven out of business by the airplane or something else and is as obsolete as the oxcart of a century or two ago4 ,there is nothing new in the principle of the gas engine1 but new appliances and new methods are constantly being invented and discovered4 ,all that is herein contained is the result of years of experience at the ,automobile ,school of the ,west ,side ,young ,men's ,christian ,association1 ,new ,york ,city4 ,this was one of the pioneer schools and for fourteen years has turned out more than #ajjj trained drivers each year who know their engine and working parts thoroughly4 ,last year the number was nearly #bejj4 ,naturally in handling these thousands of bright men the instructors were stimulated and themselves learned as they taught4 ,the consensus of this ripe experience is given here4 ,lest there be misunderstanding1 it were better said at once that if the reader has come to this book to learn how to be a garage mechanic1 how to qualify as an expert in automotive technique1 or how to learn common sense1 he should at once seek another source of information4 ,this book makes no pretensions of teaching the last word in automobile repair4 ,but if the automobile owner desires to have a working knowledge of his car1 to know how to find and overcome the ordinary ills and troubles to which it is subject1 and how to diagnose and prescribe for it when it begins to wheeze or squeak or groan or knock1 let him read on4 ,the book is for him4 ,in other words this is not a sine qua non1 but a friend in need2 it is not a know-it-all1 but a first-aid treatise4 ,it is a leaf--several in fact--from the book of experience1 relating not to the engineering problems of the automobile1 but to the things which the engineer overlooked or could not solve1 and which the ingenuity of men who lay no claim to the title of engineer1 has enabled them to learn so that they may take a bucking auto and make it feed out of their hands and stand without hitching4 ,one of the first essentials of an automobile is that it shall go1 and that no amount of perversity shall prevent the owner from 8driving it back home under its own power40 ,anyone may be towed in1 if there is a horse or another automobile handy2 the wise owner will prepare himself to avoid this4 ,except for serious breaks of parts1 or forgetfulness which permits oil or gas supply to run out1 there is seldom reason why the average owner should not 8get out and get under0 to find out what the trouble is and1 having found it1 to remove the cause and start the engine4 ,it usually should take only a few minutes4 ,system in locating trouble and knowledge of what to do to remove the trouble are within the compass of all2 if there also reside within the individual a few grains of common sense1 his problem is simplified1 his troubles are lightened4 ,let it be said also that this book does not in any way pretend to supersede an automobile school for the owner who desires to make all his ordinary repairs1 and do more puttering about the car than the average owner cares for4 ,all owners would save the cost of instruction many times over and repay the lost time by taking a course of instruction in a reputable school4 ,many ,y4 ,m4 ,c4 ,a4 branches all over the land have well equipped schools1 and there are many others in the cities2 there are also many where time spent would be wasted4 ,there are several in one of our large cities where the expense is very small1 but it is dear at any price4 ,the 8course0 consists largely in putting the student to work in a garage as an apprentice1 where his instruction is confined to verbal orders of how to repair a car which comes in4 ,in time1 of course1 the student comes across a large variety of troubles1 depending upon the character of the garage trade4 ,meanwhile the garage-auto-school proprietor permits the student to pay for the privilege of doing the repair work at the institution4 ,no wonder the course is advertised as unlimited6 ,it should be understood that this book does not pretend to tell all the troubles attaching to automobiles and how to end them2 but it covers the general run of difficulties experienced on the road and a close study of its pages and an application of its advice will make an owner who has the least mechanical genius independent of the garage man1 with his delay and extravagant charges2 at least it will enable him to get to the home garage in most cases1 where repairs may be effected with a minimum of expense and annoyance4 ,upon this basis and with this understanding1 the automobile owner may safely pin his faith to what follows and plunge at once into its depths without fear4 ,h4 ,c4 ,b4 ,c4 ,a4 ,s4 ,,contents ,,chapter ,,page ,i4--,,what ,,to ,,do ,,on ,,purchasing ,a ,,car #a ,,ii4--,,some ,,things ,,to ,,avoid #g ,,iii4--,,what ,,an ,,automobile ,,is #ab ,,iv4--,,what ,,makes ,,the ,,engine ,,go #ba ,v4--,,equipment ,,and ,,accessories #bf ,,vi4--,,if ,,well 8,,slicked0 ,,the ,,engine ,,runs #cc ,,vii4--,,where ,,lubrication ,,is ,,neglected #ci ,,viii4--,,sometimes ,,the ,,car ,,smokes #df ,,ix4--,,the ,,carburetor ,,and ,,its ,,failings #ea ,x4--,,getting ,,the ,,most ,,out ,,of ,a ,,gallon ,,of ,,gas #eh ,,xi4--,,things ,,which ,,make ,,gas ,,bills ,,high #fc ,,xii4--,,care ,,of ,,the ,,tires #fi ,,xiii4--,,skidding ,,may ,,be ,,minimized #gf ,,xiv4--8,,can',t-,,slip ,,heels0 ,,lessen ,,skidding #hd ,,xv4--,,avoid ,,newly ,,oiled ,,roads #ij ,,xvi4--,,watch ,,your ,,brakes #ic ,,xvii4--,,why ,,the ,,auto ,,steers ,,easily #aja ,,xviii4--,,the ,,elusive 8,,juice0 #ajh ,,xix4--,,putting ,,the ,,kick ,,in ,,the ,,spark #aaf ,,xx4--,,what',s ,,the ,,trouble ,,with ,,my ,,battery8 #abc ,,xxi4--,,why ,,gears ,,strip #acj ,,xxii4--,,the ,,gear-,,shifting ,,bugaboo #acg ,,xxiii4--,,the ,,muffler #adc ,,xxiv4--,,your ,,bearings #adi ,,xxv4--,,driving ,,the ,,car #aef ,,xxvi4--,,where ,,extra ,,caution ,,is ,,necessary #agh ,,xxvii4--,,an ,,auto ,,furnace ,,for ,,winter #ahd ,,xxviii4--,,the ,,cooling ,,system ,,in ,,winter #aia ,,xxix4--,,overheating ,,the ,,engine ,,in ,,summer #aig ,,xxx4--,,some ,,other ,,hot-,,weather ,,tips #bjc ,,xxxi4--,,hot-,,weather ,,tire ,,expansion #bji ,,xxxii4--,,guarding ,,against ,,fire #bad ,,xxxiii4--,,don',t ,,run ,,away ,,from ,a ,,fire #bbj ,,xxxiv4--,,death ,,in ,,the ,,gasoline #bbd ,,xxxv4--,,shifting ,,gears ,,on ,,hills #bbi ,,xxxvi4--,,keeping ,,the ,,car ,,sleek #bcf ,,xxxvii4--,,some ,,things ,a ,,tourist ,,should ,,know #bdd ,,xxxviii4--,,little ,,knocks ,,are ,,hardly ,,boosts #bea ,,xxxix4--,,some ,,other ,,causes ,,of ,,knocking #bee ,,xl4--,,chassis ,,knocks #bfb ,,xli4--,,keeping ,,down ,,the ,,auto ,,upkeep #bfg ,,xlii4--,,hunting ,,trouble #bgb ,,xliii4--,,more ,,trouble #bhj ,,xliv4--,,don',t ,,take ,,things ,,for ,,granted #bhe ,,xlv4--,,blowing ,,your ,,own ,,horn #bid ,,xlvi4--,,women ,,as ,,drivers #cjj ,,xlvii4--,,miscellaneous ,,rules #cjh ,,xlviii4--,,the ,,golden ,,rule ,,of ,,motoring #cag ,,index #cca ,,illustrations ,,page ,,sectional ,,view ,,of ,a ,,modern ,,automobile ,,with ,,four-,,cylinder ,,engine ,frontispiece ,,chassis ,,plan ,,of ,,the ,,same ,,automobile #ad ,,sectional ,,view ,,of ,a ,,four-,,cylinder ,,engine ,,with ,,special ,,reference ,,to ,,parts ,,connected ,,with ,,lubrication #cd ,,rear ,,wheel ,,and ,,brake ,,drum ,,removed1 ,,showing ,,external ,,and ,,internal ,,brake ,,bands ,,and ,,mechanism #ih ,,then ,,he ,,went ,,to ,,school ,,to ,,learn ,,some ,,more ,,about ,,his ,,car #abe ,,diagram ,,of ,,three ,,speed ,,and ,,reverse ,,gear #acb ,,block ,,of ,,steel1 ,,and ,,the ,,gear ,,wheel ,,which ,,was ,,hammered ,,from ,,it #ach ,,brake ,,levers ,,and ,,linkage1 ,,showing ,,equalizing ,,rod ,,and ,,springs #bdf ,,she ,,is ,,accumulating ,,knowledge ,,of ,,an ,,intricate ,,machine--,,and ,,she ,,is ,,fascinated #cje ,putnam's ,automobile ,handbook ,,chapter ,i ,,what ,,to ,,do ,,upon ,,purchasing ,a ,,car ,the man who buys a car will receive from the salesman a certain amount of instruction as to running it4 ,he will be taught how to manipulate the pedals and levers1 switches and other devices of the equipment and1 if necessary1 how to run the car4 ,he will be given1 also1 certain books of instructions4 ,it is presumable that almost any man will remember enough of the salesman's patter to enable him to get home with the car1 and that some bits of memory as to the instruction books will remain4 ,but will the owner get out those books and go to school awhile with them8 ,not if he is the average owner4 ,probably he looks upon them as mere catalogues for ordering repair parts--well enough when needed4 ,do not make that mistake4 ,there is no other book printed1 no matter how complete1 which supersedes or which can be substituted for the manufacturer's book concerning his own car4 ,it was not printed just to consume paper and ink2 the manufacturer had no idea you would cut out the pictures and paste them about the garage4 ,he and his assistants spent a large amount of time and a larger amount of gray matter in preparing those books so that you1 ,mr4 ,owner1 would know how your car is built1 what it ought to do1 and why it won't unless you do certain things4 ,the books contain in a small compass practically everything about your particular car4 ,the owner should master the contents first of all4 ,nothing can take its place4 ,if the owner has not read the instructions1 lay down this volume right now1 go to the garage1 and get the books and read them over4 ,if you haven't read them they are still in the car4 ,the manufacturer made certain that the owner could not claim the books were not received1 by tacking them fast under the seat or elsewhere so that they could not get away and so that a forgetful salesman would not overlook this important matter4 ,get them out and lay the basis of what is to follow4 ,doubtless the owner will find that the manufacturer has1 for instance1 given certain instructions concerning lubrication1 perhaps has specified certain kinds of lubricants4 ,now1 no matter how much you may know about the subject of lubrication1 rest assured that the manufacturer has had an engineer study out the lubrication of his car and what he writes concerning it is the last word and it should be followed implicitly4 ,all that is contained in these pages upon the subject of lubrication is explanatory and corrective and in no way can take the place of the manufacturer's advice for the particular car4 ,the same thing is true as to tires1 or brakes1 or steering gear1 or any other part of the mechanism4 ,read his book first and then turn to the appropriate chapter here and you will find no divergence1 only interpretation1 clarification1 supplementary advice4 ,probably it would be well to remind the owner that nine-tenths of the complaints which reach the manufacturer or his service stations1 show that the owners making the 8holler0 confess that they had not read the books given them with the car4 ,it has become such a serious thing that at least one manufacturer has started schools for purchasers of the make1 where1 at a nominal compensation1 they may be made to read the instructions and be given a visualization of what they mean4 ,all owners cannot visit the centers where such schools are maintained1 and all manufacturers do not maintain them now1 though it may be necessary in the near future4 ,the fact that it is necessary1 however1 should leave the impress upon the reader's mind of the importance of the subject4 ,the owner1 whether he possess a 8flivver10 or an edition de luxe1 has about as much money tied up in his car as he feels he can devote to that form of pleasure or to business4 ,it is an investment which will1 or will not1 bring commensurate returns in money1 or moments1 well spent2 it can be made an indispensable aid to both business and pleasure1 or it may become an unsufferable nuisance in either4 ,the value of a car depends not upon the amount of the purchase price1 but upon what can be gotten out of it3 its service1 its dependability and general reliability2 that and the low cost of upkeep and operation4 ,would it not seem reasonable1 therefore1 for the owner to give as much thought and study to the machine which propels him and his merchandise as to the machine in the factory which produces the merchandise2 ought he not to understand how and why and wherefore it propels him--or why not8 ,few men there be who would consign their bodies to the mercy of wind and waves if they did not believe that a competent captain and engineer were aboard the craft1 or to a railway train were there not an engineer and conductor at hand to look to his safety4 ,why should he place himself and loved ones in a motor car and start off on a trip with an uncertain hand at the steering wheel1 with no one aboard competent to rule the engine1 or to know if all other parts of the mechanism are properly adjusted1 when a maladjustment may mean danger and even death8 ,one would not waste sympathy upon the owner himself in case of an accident through ignorance1 but the fate of others in his keeping prompts the sounding of a warning4 ,years ago traveling sign painters decorated trees and rail fences and barns along the railways with injunctions of a religious nature1 such as 8,prepare to ,meet ,thy ,god40 ,the last time the writer was back 8at the farm0 this identical message confronted him from a big rock alongside the railway crossing1 as it did thirty or more years ago4 ,only this time it seemed appropriate1 for there was more recklessness shown than one cares to witness regularly--it is too nerve-racking4 ,when one considers that a defective brake1 a worn-through steering knuckle1 or any one of a number of broken parts--broken because neglected--may be the particular weapon selected by the fool-killer1 the owner who cares for his bones1 or for the lives of his passengers1 would better spend a few hours occasionally in looking after his car and in finding out all that is possible about it4 ,even though the owner can afford a chauffeur who 8knows all about an auto10 it is noticeable that chauffeurs have a way of forgetting1 that they loaf on the job shamefully1 that they conspire with the supply dealer to run the cost of upkeep to skyline altitudes1 and are little more immune from road troubles than the common or garden variety of owner4 ,the owner who knows can detect all these lapses from strict rectitude1 to the comfort of his person and the safety of his bank balance4 ,so1 now1 having turned to the manufacturer's books of instructions and pondered over the warnings here given1 the reader may safely pass on to the chapters dealing with the beast he is called upon to tame4 ,,chapter ,,ii ,,some ,,things ,,to ,,avoid ,when a certain character of history1 long touted as 8the wisest guy ever10 uttered his famous 8,wisdom crieth aloud in the street10 and along with it1 8,fools hate knowledge10 he must have had a vision of the present day1 when there is so much and so little known about the chief mode of transportation1 the automobile2 so much by those who really have studied its mechanical principles1 and so little by those who are running them about the highways4 ,yet in this day of automobile schools and service stations there is no need of a single individual being ignorant1 nor of his coming under the condemnation of the same wise one3 8,the careless ease of fools shall destroy them40 ,give me an individual of average intelligence in overalls and jumper and a mind devoid of the 8,i know it0 error and #ii4ii per cent4 of such can be taught to 8make the auto auto as it really ought to auto40 ,the chief obstacle is the half knowledge--half error--which some possess4 ,josh ,billings once said3 8,i'd rather not know so much than know a lot that is not so40 ,the reader will get the idea4 ,one of the hardest things for the average man to learn is not to do useless things4 ,over and over folks will do things contrary to all rules and instructions and make extra work for themselves4 ,in a school it is a good thing1 perhaps1 for it enables the instructor to point out the futility of going at the thing wrong end first4 ,there was one class at the ,west ,side ,y4 ,m4 ,c4 ,a4 school particularly stupid in this respect4 ,they were set to locating engine troubles1 forgot all about the rules and took turns cranking the engine1 expecting in that way to find out why the engine would not run4 ,the instructor1 looking into the classroom1 found how things were going4 ,all but one student were intent upon turning over the engine2 that one man stood in one corner grinning1 apparently having a good time with himself4 ,the instructor in feigned amazement called out to him3 8,here1 why are you not cranking the engine1 too80 ,with a grin perfectly idiotic the fellow drawled out3 8,what's the use of cranking if she ain't goin' to run80 ,the reader can figure out for himself the relative degrees of idiocy or stupidity in that class4 ,the instructor quickly set them to work by rule and they all knew in a few minutes that troubles are not located by cranking alone4 ,the reader who will give careful attention to the instructions herein contained1 and who will follow closely the rules1 will not be cranking the engine when he should be cleaning a spark plug1 or adjusting the carburetor1 or mending a broken wire4 ,he will learn that there is a sequence in every little job about the auto which tends to lessen the labor and to produce the best result1 just as there is in keeping a set of books1 or in running a farm4 ,the carpenter who does his work without plans usually is dubbed a 8wood butcher40 ,the inference is that the man who would care for his automobile should learn to do it in a systematic way1 according to rule1 doing everything always the same way and in the same order4 ,thus the labor becomes a habit and is performed quickly and easily4 ,at the same time habit must not be allowed to become a rut2 the owner must preserve originality and initiative1 and native ingenuity is invaluable4 ,particularly it is wise to avoid the idea that at the first sign of something wrong one knows just what the trouble is4 ,probably no one thing has caused more unnecessary work and unnecessary expletive than jumping at a conclusion4 ,have a rule and go by it4 ,under the chapter relating to troubles there will be found a rule for locating them4 ,it does not matter so much where one starts if it is followed through when started4 ,experience will lead one in time to select the starting point1 either under the heading ignition1 or gasoline1 or other heading1 the symptoms indicating generally to the experienced ear what is the matter2 but there is so much chance of error in this guess that the rule must be remembered and closely followed4 ,it takes three things to start a gas engine running3 gasoline in the proper mixture1 compression1 and ignition4 ,to keep it running we must add a lubricating and a cooling system4 ,there must also be free exhaust for burned gases4 ,while there are many phases of each1 it is necessary for the owner to get these things fixed in his1 mind first4 ,everything else is extraneous4 ,there is something else to avoid4 ,avoid giving offense to the policeman on the street1 and avoid running away if you have had an accident or are hailed by the traffic man4 ,it does not pay1 and will make added trouble1 unless you are as fortunate in explanations as was a fellow who was caught by the officer in front of the ,automobile ,school4 ,he had hit someone and instead of stopping as the law provided1 he gave a hasty look1 saw no policeman1 and shot ahead1 turning the next corner4 ,he dodged in and out of several streets1 not seeing the motorcycle policeman chasing him4 ,when caught and stopped he was asked why he was running away4 8,me running away80 he asked4 8,i was not running away1 ,i was just trying to find a cop to report the accident40 ,it worked that time1 but it is not safe to trust the expedient under other circumstances4 ,,chapter ,,iii ,,what ,,an ,,automobile ,,is ,it matters not whether one call it an automobile1 a tin lizzie1 a gas wagon1 or what not1 it consists of a steel frame upon which are mounted wheels1 an engine1 appliances for connecting the engine to the driving wheels1 a fuel supply tank1 a system for producing ignition at the right moment1 and appliances for regulating the speed of the engine and the direction of the car4 ,a seat for the driver and sundry pedals and levers are needed to accomplish speed and steering control1 and sundry other parts have their place1 but the above covers in a general way the necessities of an automobile4 ,an automobile1 as the name suggests1 is a car which contains its own propelling force and to which it is not necessary to hitch a horse1 or steam engine1 or something else to make it go4 ,this in spite of the fact that occasionally it is necessary to hitch something else to an auto to make it go4 ,the assembly1 generally speaking1 consists of the chassis1 corresponding to the running gear of a wagon2 the engine1 mounted on the chassis2 and the body4 ,the chassis usually is made of angle iron riveted together in form convenient for supporting the other parts4 ,this rests upon the springs which take up the road shocks in part1 and the springs rest upon the axles4 ,the rear axles--there is a separate axle for each rear wheel--are fixed1 that is1 they keep the wheels from oscillating1 and they are joined in the center by the differential1 a device driving the axle shafts by which one wheel is permitted to revolve at a differing speed as compared with the other1 in turning a corner4 ,since1 in turning1 the outer wheel must travel a much longer distance than the inside wheel1 if no device were installed to take up this difference1 the outer wheel would scrape over the ground on every curve1 or the inner wheel would spin without forward motion4 ,in either event it would be disastrous to tires4 ,to keep the differential housing from twisting1 a torque rod or tube connects it to the frame2 to keep the rear axles at right angles to the frame and to transmit the driving thrust to the load1 radius rods connect the axles to the frame forward4 ,the forward axle1 unlike in an ordinary wagon1 is fastened to the chassis frame1 through springs1 and does not turn4 ,on either end is a yoke from which is suspended a steering knuckle1 the wheel turning on a tapered spindle forged with the knuckle4 ,the two knuckles are fastened together by a tie rod1 which has some form of a turn buckle by which the wheels may be made to run parallel1 or practically so4 ,as a matter of fact the wheels are not parallel4 ,they foregather slightly1 so that the lines1 projected forward far enough1 would meet and make a pointed effect1 like the bow of a boat4 ,its effect is to bring a slight but constant pressure upon both wheels and makes them less likely to swerve through contact with road unevenness4 ,also the wheels undergather1 so that the load is brought over the center of knuckle support1 minimizing the strain4 ,this deviation of the wheels from true produces a very slight wear on the tires1 but it is more than compensated for by the other advantages noted4 ,the deviation is worked out scientifically and the owner need not trouble himself about it4 ,his only concern is that the tie rod be not bent so that the foregather is increased1 when there would be excess wear of tires4 ,illustration3 ,courtesy of ,allen ,motor ,co4 ,,chassis ,,of ,a ,,modern ,,automobile ,,with ,,four-,,cylinder ,,engine ,the brake drums are attached to the rear wheels and have inside and outside bands with mechanism to tighten them against the drum providing the necessary friction4 ,the levers which connect the bands to the brake pedal or emergency lever are termed the brake linkage4 ,the motor1 or engine1 rests upon the chassis frame forward1 being fastened thereto by bolts4 ,forward of it is a radiator1 if it is a water-cooled motor1 to which it is connected by pipes2 the cooling system may be either pump or thermo-syphon type4 ,some few motors are air-cooled4 ,the principle of cooling is that the motor should be kept just cool enough to prevent the lubricating oil from burning off the cylinder walls4 ,attached to the motor are the carburetor1 in which air and gasoline are mixed properly for rapid combustion1 wires to supply ignition to the mixture at the proper time1 a device for giving lubrication1 and exhaust pipes leading to the muffler1 the latter designed to stifle the noise of rapid explosions1 which otherwise would be deafening4 ,the ignition system may be either battery and coil1 or high-tension magneto which has its own coil and distributor1 or a combination of both these systems4 ,where there is a self-starter there is a storage battery1 which supplies current to the starting motor1 and from which the ignition current is drawn1 and a generator to keep the battery charged1 and the generator may be provided with a circuit breaker and distributor1 or a separate magneto or coil may be used4 ,the lubricating device may either be a gravity or force-feed oiler system with pipes leading to the various bearings1 or the chief lubrication may be by the splash system1 where a reservoir of oil is kept under the crank case from which it is pumped to oil pans under the cranks1 being splashed by projections which dip into the oil and throw it all over the inside mechanism4 ,also attached to the carburetor is the pipe from the fuel supply tank4 ,this supply may come by gravity or under pressure1 and a late device which is furnished with many cars is a vacuum gravity system1 the gasoline being drawn from the main tank1 by a vacuum created in the intake manifold1 into a small container attached under the hood1 whence it flows by gravity to the carburetor1 maintaining a uniform supply4 ,the motor consists of one or more cylinders1 inside of each being a piston which fits tight1 the escape of gas being further prevented by piston rings which seal the cylinder with the aid of the lubricating oil4 ,the pistons are attached to a connecting rod by a wrist pin1 the connecting rod being attached at the other end to the crank which rests in bearings4 ,the action of the engine is that by drawing down the piston a vacuum is created in the upper part of the cylinder called the combustion chamber4 ,at the right moment an inlet valve is opened and a charge of gas and air1 called mixture1 is sucked in4 ,the valve closes and the piston rising compresses the charge4 ,when the piston reaches its highest point a spark is introduced through spark plug or igniter4 ,this fires the mixture1 bringing a rapid expansion1 and this drives the piston downward1 producing force4 ,this revolves the crank shaft1 which turns the force into rotary motion4 ,this operation repeated rapidly furnishes the motion which drives the car4 ,the fly wheel carries the crank over the strokes which do not produce power4 ,there are four strokes to each motor cycle4 ,the first1 which takes in the mixture1 is called the suction stroke2 the next is the compression stroke1 the third is the power stroke1 and the last is the exhaust stroke when the burned gases are expelled from the combustion chamber4 ,these four strokes take two complete revolutions of the crank shaft1 so that the four cycle is really two circles4 ,power having been created and turned into motion1 the next step is to connect it to the propelling or drive wheels4 ,the first device for controlling the power is the clutch1 which provides means of applying or cutting off the power or motion quickly without stopping the engine4 ,this is done by friction in some form4 ,the most common are the cone clutch1 where male and female cones are engaged by pressure1 the friction transmitting the power to the driving shaft2 and the multiple disc clutch1 where numerous thin discs of metal or metal and textile material are compressed together by a lever and transmit the power4 ,to provide for varying speeds and for reversing1 also extra power to the rear wheels for hill climbing1 sandy roads1 etc41 gears are necessary4 ,in a general way this is a set of cog wheels of varying sizes1 so arranged on parallel shafts that by engaging different size gears on the shafts a certain speed will be transmitted1 other gear sets producing another speed or a reverse motion4 ,the diagram in ,chapter ,,xxi4 shows the usual form of construction4 ,three speeds and reverse usually are provided1 though some cars have four speeds4 ,these gear sets are engaged successively until the desired speed is reached4 ,from the gear case the power is transmitted by the drive shaft1 which has one or two universal joints to take up any misalignment and to enable installing the engine level and yet transmit the power to the driving axles1 through the differential1 at another level or angle1 or at varying angles due to spring action4 ,upon each of the wheels is a tire consisting of a rubber and fabric casing1 enclosing a soft rubber tube with a valve by which it may be inflated4 ,the purpose of the tires is to absorb road shocks and make riding easy1 as well as to keep the car from jolting to pieces4 ,the tires are of varying composition and form and are attached to the rims in differing ways4 ,many auto trucks use solid rubber tires4 ,without going into detail1 the foregoing gives the makeup of the car and the simple principles of its operation4 ,to control the car requires various other parts4 ,the first is the steering wheel and its mechanism4 ,the wheel is mounted on a shaft running within a tube1 and to the lower end of this shaft is a worm controlling a gear1 and by levers and ball joints operating the steering knuckle on one of the front wheels1 the other being operated simultaneously by the tie rod connection4 ,on the steering wheel or steering column are mounted the spark-timing lever and the throttle lever4 ,the spark lever regulates the time of the spark within the combustion chamber and the throttle the amount of mixture admitted to the combustion chamber4 ,at the feet of the driver are the pedal for engaging the clutch1 that for applying the brake1 and the accelerator pedal1 which operates the throttle as well as the lever before mentioned4 ,the throttle lever on the steering column is for the regular running adjustment1 while the accelerator pedal is for temporary increase of the mixture in starting or in speeding up4 ,there may also be a pedal for the self-starter1 though the switch often is upon the dash4 ,on the ,ford and some other cars the gear shift is controlled by pedals1 but usually the shift is made by a lever placed convenient to the right hand of the driver4 ,with it is installed also the emergency brake lever1 which is used for locking the car when standing and for alternating with the foot brake on long hills4 ,on the dashboard may be mounted the ignition and lighting switch1 the speedometer1 sight oil feed1 and sundry other dials and switches1 depending upon the fastidiousness of the owner4 ,where there is a self-starter there is a charge and discharge dial1 the ammeter1 which tells whether the generator is working1 and how4 ,,chapter ,,iv ,,what ,,makes ,,the ,,engine ,,go ,as has been stated on a previous page1 it takes three things to start an engine and three more to keep it going4 ,the first three essentials are a proper mixture of gasoline and air1 ignition at the right moment1 and compression4 ,gasoline will continue to burn after ignition1 but1 contrary to the common idea1 it will not explode unless confined1 and not even then unless it has vaporized and the vapor is mixed with air4 ,it takes about two hundred cubic feet of air to a pint of gasoline vaporized to produce good combustion1 though the air supply is usually much more than this to insure carrying off the unburned nitrogen from the air4 ,for starting and speeding up1 more gasoline is admitted to the vaporizing chamber as the rich mixture ignites more quickly1 but for running1 a leaner mixture produces better results4 ,but whatever the mixture which is burned1 there would be little or no power produced if the mixture were not confined under pressure4 ,it is1 of course1 a fact that a tank filled with gasoline vapor and air will explode with great force if ignited1 though there be only the ordinary atmospheric pressure upon the tank4 ,but it must be remembered that if the pressure were sixty or seventy pounds to the square inch the explosion would destroy everything in the vicinity4 ,taking advantage of this fact the designers of the gasoline engine provided for compressing the gas before ignition1 to produce the greatest amount of power for driving the car4 ,valves are provided which admit the charge of mixture to the combustion chamber1 closing tight after the charge is received4 ,then the piston rises1 compressing the contents of the combustion chamber until a pressure of between forty and seventy-five pounds per square inch is reached4 ,it is upon the principle of the muzzle-loading rifle or shotgun1 or in blasting1 where the charge is tamped down1 or confined by wads1 and the exploding powder is held until the pressure sends the bullet on its errand1 or rends the rock4 ,just as the piston reaches the highest point1 and the compression is at the maximum1 a spark is introduced into the combustion chamber4 ,under the pressure the gases burn much more rapidly and the explosive force is greater4 ,the gas does not burn instantaneously1 however4 ,it takes a distinct interval of time for all the gas mixture to ignite2 for this reason1 when the engine is running under its own power1 the spark comes just before the time of greatest pressure1 and before the piston reaches top center1 so that by the time the piston starts the downward stroke the highest efficiency of power will have been reached4 ,for this reason the spark-timing control lever is advanced after the engine is started to give the best results4 ,but the engine is always cranked with the spark fully retarded4 ,the carburetor1 meanwhile1 has been called upon to send into the combustion chamber through the intake manifold and intake valves a charge of gas mixture2 the quantity is regulated by the throttle4 ,for starting1 a lever is manipulated which depresses the float in the fuel chamber of the carburetor1 permitting an extra supply to be drawn into the mixing chamber1 thus making the mixture richer and more readily fired4 ,when the engine has started running1 the throttle is closed to a point where the motor does not race4 ,the correct running position is given by the manufacturer and experience will soon determine where the best results are obtained4 ,the ignition system must deliver to the combustion chamber at the right instant a spark of sufficient intensity to fire the charge4 ,whether the electric current is obtained from battery or magneto1 it must be hot enough to do its work and there must be a timing device which will send the spark into each cylinder when it is needed4 ,these come in several forms and are described in detail in the manufacturer's instruction books1 in connection with the ignition and wiring diagrams4 ,the compression is maintained when the piston rings and grooves are free from gummed oil or carbon and move freely2 when the cylinder walls are not worn oval by a slapping piston1 or creased by carbon1 and when a film of lubricating oil is constant on the side walls and when valves are properly seated4 ,loss of compression means loss of power and the cylinders should be tested every little while to make sure that no cylinder is failing to do its duty4 ,more will be said concerning this later1 as well as of minor things which may affect the compression4 ,as has been mentioned1 to keep the engine running for any length of time there must be a cooling system1 a system of lubrication1 and a free exhaust4 ,once the owner comprehends the simplicity of gas-engine operation1 he can begin to trace each part of the operation1 learning all there is to know concerning the several steps in his own motor1 and absorbing the specific knowledge which will enable him to care for his car efficiently and economically4 ,,chapter ,v ,,equipment ,,and ,,accessories ,with every car are furnished all the things required for operation1 including lamps1 tire pump1 jack1 tire-repair kit1 a variety of wrenches to fit all nuts and bolts1 oil can1 set of spark plugs and generally an extra one2 hammer1 screw driver1 cold chisel1 magneto-adjusting wrench1 and some other things1 varying with the car4 ,there are any number of additions which may be made in the way of tools1 or of devices which some motorists deem desirable4 ,some of these things are a speedometer1 a clock1 trouble lamp attachable to a socket on the dash1 a mirror to enable the driver to see what is going on back of him 7compulsory in ,new ,jersey and some other ,states71 cigar lighters1 foot warmers1 and elaborate lights for the limousine4 ,the owner is cautioned1 however1 against loading up his battery with a lot of electrical devices which use up current very fast4 ,not so as to tools2 one may err in having too few rather than too many4 ,while it is true that a woman with a hairpin and a piece of string can fix almost anything under the sun1 the autoist would better not trust to his wife's ingenuity1 but be a little better prepared for the emergencies of the road4 ,it does not do any good to know what the matter is when the car balks unless one has the tools and material to do the necessary repair work or adjustment4 ,every new car is equipped with certain tools1 but some owners have no interest in these tools and lose most of them in a short time1 so that when needed they are missing1 while other owners add sufficient tools to equip a good-sized machine shop4 ,a wise selection of tools for the car will provide everything at all likely to be needed on tour1 and yet capable of being packed in such a compact space that it does not become an annoyance through the room occupied1 nor weigh down the car4 ,the special tools furnished should be preserved with great care1 because nothing else fills the bill quite so well4 ,to these might be added some few tools and parts not needed often1 but when they are1 their absence is a source of delay and is temper-provoking4 ,recently the author was asked to go about fifty miles into the country to bring in a machine which had refused to run and had been stored in a barn over night4 ,he found that the interrupter points had become glazed so that no spark was being procured4 ,a special file is manufactured for the particular purpose of cleaning off these points4 ,as one of these was not in the car1 it was necessary to disassemble the spark timer completely1 take out the points1 and then find a piece of flat hard stone upon which the points could be cleaned4 ,this did the work all right1 but much time could have been saved if the interrupter point file had been carried in the car4 ,likewise no wrench was available for adjusting the points and it was necessary to go to a nearby blacksmith shop and saw out a temporary wrench for the purpose4 ,word has come from ,france to the ,national ,war ,work ,council of the ,y4 ,m4 ,c4 ,a4 that one of their supply cars serving the huts in the trenches was laid up nine days for the lack of a small magneto wrench4 ,many an owner has had the experience of being caught out on the road by a storm and having to put on non-skid chains4 ,how often have they found that1 though these chains were in good condition when leaving the garage and when they were put on1 after running awhile over rough roads at a fair speed1 some of the links wore through and began to thrash against the mud guards4 ,this is not only annoying1 but often does real damage to the guards4 ,most owners have stopped more than once to wire the loose ends to the side chains to stop the banging1 and it certainly would be more satisfactory to carry a supply of links and a chain tool so that the broken ends could be removed and new links inserted4 ,of course1 the loose ends can be pried off with a screw driver and new links pounded fast with a hammer1 but you will have to remove the chain to do it and it takes time1 and much exasperation can be saved by using the proper tool4 ,a folding pail is very useful1 especially when one has to go up very long hills and finds that the water in the radiator has boiled away4 ,the cooling systems for automobile engines to-day are very efficient and it is only in exceptional cases that the water will boil out of the radiator1 and that is just the reason why an occurrence of that sort is disastrous1 because one is not expecting it and is not prepared for it4 ,in sandy country and on dirt roads one often will have occasion to jack up a wheel to change a tire1 and will find that the jack sinks into the loose sand or dust instead of lifting the car4 ,a block of wood an inch thick and about six inches wide and a foot long will be found a big help under such circumstances4 ,many drivers also have had to use a fence rail to jack up a car because some one borrowed the jack from the car and neglected to return it4 ,even though tire trouble is not expected1 it is well to make sure there is a jack in the car and also a handle for the jack4 ,the jack is more often found than the handle4 ,working about an automobile means a lot of grease and grime on the hands1 and possibly oil or grease upon parts of the car1 so that it is well to carry a small bag of waste or rags4 ,if the grease or dirt prove obstinate1 a little gasoline1 drawn from the drain cock at the bottom of the carburetor1 will cut it and enable you to clean the hands fairly well4 ,it is a good idea to have a three-in-one or similar tire-valve tool with which it is possible to remove the valve plunger1 cut threads in the valve stem so that the plunger may be properly seated1 and cut threads on the outside of the stem so that the cap will screw down tight4 ,in some cases where the valve stem is battered in changing a tire1 air cannot be gotten into the tire if these threads are damaged4 ,many persons object to carrying a tow rope for fear it will be understood that they have doubts of their ability to get home under their own power2 but in addition to affording a connection to some other source of power1 a tow rope may be used to help a brother in distress and is superior to chains in very sandy or muddy places1 when wrapped about the tire4 ,an extra set of electric-light bulbs may save considerable trouble and annoyance1 because the traffic policemen to-day will accept no excuse when at least one light is not burning4 ,if you do not take your wife's first-aid kit--the shoestring and hairpin--you had better be provided with a spool of soft iron wire1 the ordinary stovepipe wire4 ,it is wonderful how many little temporary repair jobs may be done with its aid4 ,some drivers like to have a small hank of strong twine also4 ,there are many other things which might be added to the list of useful things to have along for emergency1 all of which may be stowed in the tool box or under a seat4 ,they may not be needed once a year--perhaps never--but like the insurance policy1 when you do need a tool you need it pretty badly4 ,,automobile ,,first-,,aid ,,kit4 #a4 ,wrench for adjusting ignition interrupter points4 #b4 ,file for cleaning above points4 #c4 ,one set of ignition brushes4 7,in box labeled47 #d4 ,several extra spark plugs1 cleaned and adjusted ready to use4 #e4 ,tow rope4 #f4 ,half-dozen valve plungers for inner tubes4 #g4 ,three-in-one tire-valve tool4 #h4 ,tire pressure gauge4 #i4 ,jack and handle4 7,be sure about the handle47 #aj4 ,squirt can full of oil4 #aa4 ,voltmeter1 or hydrometer1 for testing battery4 #ab4 ,box of assorted nuts4 #ac4 ,box of assorted cotter pins4 #ad4 ,box of assorted cap screws4 #ae4 ,box of assorted washers4 #af4 ,spool of copper wire and one of soft iron wire4 #ag4 ,full set of electric-light bulbs4 #ah4 ,bag of clean waste or rags4 #ai4 ,two blocks of wood1 #f #ab #a4 #bj4 ,full set of fuses--if fuses are used4 #ba4 ,folding pail4 #bb4 ,chain tool and several cross links4 ,the nuts1 cap screws1 washers1 and cotter pins of regular assortment and packed in boxes are carried by supply stores4 ,these and several of the other articles may be packed in a cigar box for stowing away4 ,,chapter ,,vi ,,if ,,well 8,,slicked0 ,,the ,,engine ,,runs ,if we scuff our feet on the bare pavement we wear out our shoes1 develop a lot of heat1 and notice considerable resistance2 but if we step on a banana peel1 a piece of ice1 or a patch of oil or grease1 our passage is facilitated1 and our feet are likely to slide out from under us and we sit down with little effort4 ,now this is just like the auto engine4 ,if the parts were all made perfect and fitted together properly and the engine started without lubrication1 there would be so much friction that the parts would very quickly wear out4 ,as a matter of fact an engine could be wrecked in less than half an hour's running1 unless there were something introduced to prevent friction4 ,the lubrication of the modern auto engine is so simple that most owners do not realize its importance4 ,it is the things which normally take care of themselves that are most likely to be neglected2 the things about which we know the least1 when they do go wrong1 cause the greatest damage1 not the things with which we have become familiar through frequent tinkering4 ,the instruction books issued by the manufacturers say to inspect the oil reservoir of the engine each time before leaving the garage to see if the required amount of oil is there2 and this inspection should not be neglected2 with most owners it is 8by guess and begorry40 ,the most usual scheme of engine lubrication used to-day is to carry a certain amount of oil in a compartment in the bottom of the crank case1 called the sump4 ,there is a pump which operates whenever the engine is running and which pumps the oil to some sort of an indicator on the dash1 so that the driver can see if it is circulating4 ,from this point it flows by gravity to the splash pans located under the connecting rods1 and above the sump4 ,here the oil is held at such a level that when the crank shaft revolves the ends of the connecting rods dip into the oil and splash it over practically all the working parts of the engine4 ,this splashing and agitation of the oil creates a fog of oil in the crank case1 and the rapid motion of the piston and other parts circulates the vaporized oil over the moving members1 so that a film of oil is deposited even on those parts where the splash itself does not reach4 ,illustration3 ,courtesy of ,tide ,water ,oil ,co4 ,,sectional ,,views ,,of ,a ,,four-,,cylinder ,,engine ,,with ,,special ,,reference ,,to ,,parts ,,connected ,,with ,,lubrication ,a ,sump ,b ,oil ,pump ,c ,crank-case ,d ,troughs for ,oil ,e ,connecting ,rods ,f ,oil ,cups ,g ,main ,bearings ,h ,crank ,pin ,bearings ,i ,cylinders ,k ,pistons ,l ,wrist ,pins ,m ,basin in which ,crank ,shaft ,gear ,runs ,n ,piston ,rings ,o ,oil ,pockets ,s ,drain ,cock or ,oil ,gauge ,t ,push ,rods ,the pump circulates more oil than is used and the splash pans are arranged with overflow openings so that the excess simply drops back into the sump and again is passed through the system by the pump4 ,it is this oil which enables the engine to move without friction4 ,it is the effect of the banana peel under your heel in that it makes the parts slip over each other easily4 ,in addition to this the oil between the piston and the cylinder wall makes a seal which prevents gas from leaking by on compression and explosion strokes4 ,if too much oil is fed a great deal will be drawn past the piston on the suction stroke and get in the cylinder where it will burn1 forming carbon and giving out smoke from the exhaust4 ,in this type of system the principal causes of trouble are too much oil in the sump1 so that the level reaches above the splash pans1 and projections upon the connecting rods that are so large that too much oil is splashed when the level is normal4 ,in the latter case the trouble often may be remedied by narrowing the projections of the connecting rod which dip into the oil4 ,it is not wise to shorten these projections1 because it is very difficult to get an even graduation that will insure sufficient oil without giving too much4 ,if the oil should run out while the car is in use1 the engine will get stiff1 lose its power1 and the friction of the unlubricated parts will generate sufficient heat to melt out the lining of the bearings1 and if the engine runs for any length of time in this condition it may be wrecked beyond repair4 ,this means that although the oiling system needs very little or no attention1 it should be inspected each time before leaving the garage and on the road occasionally if long trips are taken1 to make sure that oil is present in sufficient quantity and is circulating4 ,oil in a sense does wear out and in this sort of a system it should be replaced with new oil occasionally4 ,some of it will work up past the piston and be burned up and some will work out around the different parts of the engine and be lost1 but most of it will remain in the sump longer than it is advisable to use it4 ,all of the gasoline that is taken into the cylinder is usually not consumed4 ,some of it is forced past the piston on the compression stroke into the crank case1 where it condenses and mixes with the oil4 ,this thins the oil sometimes to a point where it has little or no lubricating value4 ,also the oil on the inside of the piston head burns and drops down into the crank case1 and there is some wear of the moving parts which causes a deposit of metal in the oil4 ,these things1 together with the small amount of road dust sucked in through the breather pipe1 make the oil in a short time unfit for use4 ,in this circulating splash system1 where the oil is used over and over again1 the oil should be drained out entirely about every #ajjj miles1 more or less1 depending upon the grade of the oil and fit of the piston4 ,the following things all enter into the lubricating value of the oil after #ajjj miles' performance3 ,grade of the oil ,fit of the pistons ,temperature at which the engine is run ,grade of the gasoline ,adjustment of the carburetor4 ,there are some other things1 but the above are the chief factors4 ,it would be well to acquire the habit of examining the oil every few days to determine just how it stands up in the particular engine4 ,after the oil is drained out1 a half gallon or so of kerosene should be poured into the sump and the engine run for about one minute or less1 the idea being to get a complete circulation of kerosene through the lubricating system4 ,the kerosene should then be drained off and the splash pans under the connecting rods be wiped out if possible4 ,the screen of the oil pump also should be removed and washed carefully in kerosene and replaced4 ,then the sump should be filled to the proper level with fresh oil4 ,aside from getting under the car to remove the drain plug1 this is not a dirty job4 ,still one would better put on old clothes and overalls to prevent the possibility of getting grease on a perfectly good suit4 ,while oil is expensive1 it is poor economy to use it beyond its useful stage1 because damage may be done to the machinery which will cost much more than a year's supply of good oil4 ,,chapter ,,vii ,,where ,,lubrication ,,is ,,neglected ,in some of the minor and oftentimes hidden parts of an automobile are found frequent sources of trouble4 ,there are places to be lubricated of which many an auto owner has no knowledge4 ,they wear slowly but constantly1 and unless given proper attention will erelong give trouble4 ,there are a number of these lesser bearings which tell the expert whether the car has had proper care4 ,in fact1 in looking over a used car the man who knows naturally turns to these first to find out how well the car has been taken care of4 ,experience shows that even where other parts show normal1 or practically no wear1 these lesser bearings show absolute neglect1 and these are 8the little foxes that spoil the vineyards0 in the auto world4 ,practically every owner will fill up the oiler to insure engine lubrication1 because that is a regular task2 most men will remember to keep oil in the transmission case and the differential housing2 probably a lesser number will put grease in the wheel bearings when needed4 ,as the latter is not required very often1 it is frequently forgotten4 ,what are the neglected parts8 ,well1 when the expert looks into the condition of a car1 one of the first places he inspects for wear is at the steering knuckles4 ,one must realize that they are under a pretty heavy load1 and that1 while the motion is not great1 there is a continual motion there1 even when the car is driving straight ahead4 ,very few have learned that it needs a constant supply of good1 heavy grease to prevent wear at this point4 ,it is worth while to screw down on the grease cups on the steering knuckles every time oil is put in the engine4 ,when the grease cup is screwed down so that it cannot be turned further1 it should be filled immediately4 ,there should be enough grease there to keep forcing it out1 so that grit cannot get into the bearing4 ,underneath the floor boards there are a number of parts which need attention1 but being out of sight they are often out of mind4 ,they are a little inconvenient to get at1 also4 ,under there we have the universal joint4 ,this is another joint in which the motion is not great1 but the load is heavy and continuous4 ,that is the next place that usually shows hard wear4 ,there are one or two modern designs which have housings covering this joint which may be filled with heavy oil and it then takes care of itself for a month4 ,it should be inspected and the oil replaced once a month4 ,certain universal joints1 not generally used1 however1 are supplied with grease cups1 which need attention every time the car is used1 just as much as the oiler in the engine4 ,also underneath the floor boards are the levers and arms used for controlling the clutch and brake1 the self-starter and the accelerator4 ,all have bearings1 used occasionally1 but enough so that they should be kept lubricated or they will wear4 ,this is especially true of the clutch and brake linkage1 particularly in city running1 where the clutch and brake are in constant use4 ,usually this linkage has no means of lubrication other than oil holes1 into which a drop or two of oil only may be placed4 ,naturally it will not last long and oil should be dropped in the holes at least once a week4 ,this is also true of the brake linkage on the rear axle4 ,often at that point no provision whatever is made for oiling4 ,it is simply a matter of flowing oil around the joint and letting it work in4 ,if the brake linkage wears and weakens and it becomes necessary to apply the brake with extra force in an emergency1 it will give way4 ,the spring shackle bolts usually are equipped with grease cups and they do not suffer quite as much as other points1 but often the passages become clogged and one may screw down on the cup and only force the grease out of the thread of the cup1 instead of into the bearing1 for the grease-cup cap fits loosely upon the thread4 ,many cars come from the factory with the grease holes clogged with enamel1 or hardened grease1 so that no great amount of grease could be forced through in turning down the cap4 ,cars are allowed to run so long sometimes in this condition that the shackles have worn through1 allowing the body to drop down on the axle4 ,very often complaint is made that a new car will develop a squeak very soon after it is tried out--an elusive sort of a squeak that seems to be first one place and then another4 ,the owner who has this experience will probably find upon examination that the spring shackles have not been lubricated1 either because the hole was clogged1 or for some other reason4 ,it is recommended that in such cases the car be jacked up and all the shackle pins be driven out and all the grease passages inspected and cleaned thoroughly2 also that heavy grease be applied directly to the bolt when it is put back in place4 ,this will take a little time1 but it pays1 for it is a matter of experience that if the pins are not driven out and the holes opened up for inspection it will take a solid month to force the grease through by screwing down the grease cup1 and until this passage is open there can be no lubrication of the joint4 ,wheel bearings ought to run for six months if properly packed1 but there is no way of telling when the bearing needs attention except by inspection and it is well to look them over regularly4 ,when inspecting the rear-wheel bearings1 if the construction is of the type where the wheel hub is keyed on to the shaft1 it is well to inspect the key to determine whether it is tight4 ,out of four cars recently inspected three were found with a loose key4 ,there are two dangers when the key is loose4 ,one is that the key way becomes rocked out of shape and the key cannot be fitted tight again4 ,the other is that shaft and hub may become so worn that the taper is destroyed and a tight fit is made impossible1 and of course the only remedy is to replace both4 ,this condition will often account for a knocking or rattling1 which will be felt throughout the car and the cause often be supposed to be located far from the real place4 ,for instance1 in one case the driver thought the knocking was in the gear case1 until shown the loose hub4 ,the spring leaves need lubrication once a season4 ,tools are sold for separating the leaves enough to apply a lubricant made especially for that purpose4 ,another part which shows hard wear quickly is the valve push-rod guide1 especially in overhead valve construction the ones on the forward end of the motor4 ,dust blowing over the radiator collects on these forward guides and wears them rapidly4 ,this condition is indicated usually when the crank case becomes covered with oil blown up from the loose joint4 ,modern designs have taken care of this to a large extent by enclosing the push rods in a casing1 and many owners have put in housings themselves when they discovered the difficulty4 ,overhead valves1 worked by a rocker arm1 must be lubricated every time the car is taken out4 ,the lubrication is not included in the ordinary lubrication scheme of the engine1 but must be done separately4 ,careful attention to these minor points will result in greatly lengthened life for the car1 and in a much higher value when it is traded in for another car4 ,the man who buys a used car would better inspect closely along these lines if he desires to buy something better than a bunch of junk4 ,the owner should not trust to his chauffeur the care of these parts1 unless he has found out that the man knows of the importance of lubrication1 nor should it be taken for granted that the garage man is attending to them4 ,make sure yourself is the best rule4 ,it is well to remember that 8many a mickle makes a muckle0 in wearing of auto parts1 and look after the little things4 ,,chapter ,,viii ,,sometimes ,,the ,,car ,,smokes ,the officer will get you if you don't watch out1 if you leave a trail of smoke behind you2 then it will be3 8,good morning1 ,jedge1 your ,honor40 8,guilty8 ,two dollars1 please40 8,cheap10 you say4 ,yes1 if it were only the two dollars2 but there is the time lost in appearing in court and then1 really1 you know1 to make that smoke you were burning money4 ,such smoke comes from two sources3 ,burning too much gasoline and using too much lubricating oil2 usually the latter4 ,excessive use of gasoline comes from faulty carburetor adjustment1 or poor design of carburetor or intake manifold1 or keeping the engine cylinder at too low a temperature1 because of the water being too cold in the cooling system4 ,in the latter case the carburetor may vaporize the gasoline properly1 but it condenses in the cylinder and does not burn well and the part which is not consumed passes off as black smoke1 which issues from the exhaust pipe4 ,we must have a certain amount of oxygen to consume the gasoline entirely4 ,the size of the cylinder limits the amount of air 7from which the oxygen is taken7 which may be taken in and if the carburetor is adjusted to feed too much gasoline1 there may not be enough oxygen present to consume it all4 ,practically speaking1 what is not consumed forms carbon or smoke4 ,the obvious remedy is to adjust the carburetor so that no more gasoline will be fed to the engine than is required for running4 ,in cold weather it is necessary1 usually1 to supply heat to the ingoing air at the mixing chamber of the carburetor1 so that the vaporization will be complete4 ,a light blue smoke coming from the exhaust pipe indicates too much lubricating oil4 ,this may be due to feeding too much oil or to running the engine a great deal with the throttle nearly closed4 ,in order to draw a charge of gas into the cylinder the piston travels partly out of the cylinder and forms a vacuum4 ,with the throttle wide open a high vacuum is not obtained because a large amount of gasoline and air is allowed to come in and fill the cylinder4 ,when the engine is throttled down by closing the throttle1 the air cannot enter in such a large quantity1 and in consequence there is a decided vacuum in the cylinder on each intake stroke of the piston4 ,this vacuum has a tendency to draw oil up past the piston into the combustion chamber1 where it burns and forms smoke4 ,this is why1 when the machine is left at the curb with the engine running for any length of time1 it will often be found to start away with clouds of smoke issuing from the exhaust4 ,in the same way1 when the engine is running slowly1 air passes through the carburetor so slowly that the gasoline is not broken up into very fine particles1 consequently it does not fully vaporize and is very easily condensed4 ,it forms liquid gasoline in the intake pipe or cylinder4 ,this is called 8loading up0 and is responsible for black smoke when the machine is started4 ,one way of overcoming this is to supply a larger amount of heat than usual to the mixing chamber4 ,most carburetors are not designed to take care of this condition and the only remedy would be to stop the engine instead of allowing it to run while standing at the curb4 ,to overcome smoke from the oil which is drawn up past the piston1 it is customary to have a groove turned in the piston under the lower piston ring1 with five or six holes drilled in the groove through the piston4 ,the piston ring then scrapes the oil from the cylinder wall into the groove and it is led back into the crank case through the piston walls4 ,this prevents it from working up into the combustion chamber4 ,many manufacturers have this scheme on the very new models and repair men are using it on older models which were not turned out with it4 ,sometimes the oil level will be found too high4 ,this may be corrected often by lowering the oil troughs1 or by filing off the dip on the bottom of the connecting rod so that it touches the oil with a narrowed surface4 ,in addition to the smoke resulting from too much gasoline or oil there is a large amount of carbon deposited in the cylinder which takes up space in the combustion chamber and raises the compression so high that pre-ignition occurs and the engine knocks4 ,the car must then be taken to a repair shop to have the carbon burned or scraped out4 ,this is expensive work and besides the car is laid up and one loses its use while the scraping is being done4 ,the owner will see that he has been spending a lot of money to supply gasoline and oil that he didn't need to use just to make smoke and carbon and expense and that he has lost from every point of view4 ,smoke should not be confused with steam which issues from the exhaust pipe in cold weather4 ,one of the products of combustion in the gas engine is water1 a natural result of the breaking up of a hydro-carbon4 ,this usually passes off at a high temperature as an invisible vapor4 ,in cold weather it condenses immediately it strikes the air and is visible in the form that we call steam4 ,really it is a fog that we create4 ,therefore do not let the policeman summons you for having a smoking engine1 when it is only steam issuing from the exhaust pipe4 ,if he doesn't know which it is you probably can convince him1 by the color4 ,if it is white it is steam1 if it is black it is gasoline smoke1 and if it is light blue it is the smoke from the lubricating oil4 ,therefore watch your exhaust for there are many eyes watching you just now in parks and city streets4 ,,chapter ,,ix ,,the ,,carburetor ,,and ,,its ,,failings ,one of the frequent and most annoying troubles to which automobile engines are subject has to do with the carburetor4 ,with one of the standard carburetors or vaporizers which is properly adjusted there should be1 and usually is1 no serious difficulty in ordinary conditions1 but if there is one part of the engine which seems possessed to kick up its heels it is the carburetor4 ,particularly is this so in the frosty months1 when the gasoline and air do not mix properly and do not vaporize when they do mix4 ,this is of easy solution1 however4 ,simply warm the intake a few minutes and it will take care of itself thereafter4 ,in these days of indifferent gasoline automobile drivers are complaining constantly that the carburetors are giving unusual troubles4 ,the carburetor is the lungs of the engine4 ,well1 did you ever breathe in a crumb of cake and then for a while have all your faculties suspend operation while the lungs sought to expel the intruding substance8 ,that is just what happens when you get a crumb of something in the needle valve1 or in the intake valve of the vaporizer4 ,one little1 good-for-nothing1 insignificant speck of dirt1 so small as to be almost invisible1 will put the best carburetor literally out of business1 and the only thing to do is to remove the speck4 ,there are several good makes of gasoline strainers which reduce this trouble to a minimum1 provided one will drain off the strainer occasionally to let the dirt run off4 ,straining the gasoline supply through wire gauze or chamois does not obviate the difficulty1 for gasoline tanks are prone to acquire a slight sediment4 ,a few drops of water in the gasoline which reaches the carburetor will make trouble likewise1 for it will not vaporize1 and1 what is more1 it will not let anything else vaporize4 ,probably no one is trying to dilute the gasoline with water and sell you such a mixture1 but there are some mighty careless men in the gasoline trade4 ,it reminds one of the farmer caught selling watered milk1 who pleaded that there was a pump in the milking yard and some of his men must be careless in passing by it4 ,the chamois skin will remove this impediment1 for water will not pass through it4 ,another trouble which afflicts motor-boat engines more than the automobile motor has to do with the weather4 ,the motor-boat carburetor requires frequent adjustment1 due to changes of the weather4 ,on a dry1 warm day the gasoline vaporizes easily and the maximum charge is readily exploded in the cylinder1 giving a maximum of power4 ,on a wet1 cold1 heavy day1 one must slightly decrease the supply1 or the cylinders will clog1 the engine will knock1 and one will think harsh things if they are not audibly expressed4 ,the automobile engine1 not being so constantly over the water1 will not have this trouble so much1 but it is probable that most drivers fail to take this into consideration and perhaps do not know that it is a cause of trouble4 ,a very slight leak in the intake manifold gaskets likewise makes all sorts of trouble1 since the supply of mixture to the cylinders will vary according as the vibration opens up the gasket and stops the suction by which the cylinders are supplied4 ,a leaky piston ring will do this for one of the cylinders4 ,if worn1 or frozen fast by carbon1 it will fail to keep the piston tight1 the mixture passes by the leak1 if sucked in1 and there is no compression and no explosion or irregular firing4 ,this will make one think sometimes that the carburetor is at fault1 whereas the engine really needs an overhauling4 ,in fact1 if one is having engine trouble which is hard to diagnose1 one should try out the piston rings to see if they are doing their duty4 ,this is very simple1 for all practical-test needs4 ,crank the cylinder up to high pressure and let it stand a couple of minutes4 ,then open pet or priming cock and see if there is any pressure left4 ,on the two-cycle engine this is a good test1 and by trying the cylinders in turn piston ring trouble may be located4 ,on the four-cycle engine the valves must be considered also1 for they may leak and the pistons be perfectly tight1 but in such an event it will be found almost impossible to get good pressure on the cylinder1 since it leaks through the valves while the piston is making the compression stroke4 ,don't condemn the carburetor until you have determined whether either of these things is occurring4 ,the carburetor should be drained occasionally to prevent the accumulation of sediment1 which will later clog the needle valve1 and at least once a season should be taken apart and cleaned4 ,time spent in this way well repays the owner4 ,in all that has been said thus far no account has been taken of poor gasoline4 ,by this is not meant gasoline with water or dirt in it1 but a poor quality4 ,nowadays there is such a demand for gasoline for automobiles and motor boats1 that the producers have had to market much of a low grade1 or1 as is generally the case1 have mixed the first quality with the cheaper grades1 producing a medium quality4 ,the seeming necessity of utilizing these low grades of gasoline makes it necessary to change the carburetor forms1 and one sees now a tendency to do away with the old1 long intake1 either by raising the carburetor to the cylinder level1 with a horizontal intake only1 or with an internal intake manifold1 the carburetor being attached to the cylinder block4 ,several makes of carburetors using one of these methods are said to vaporize even the low grades of gasoline1 while some later models are claimed to handle kerosene successfully4 ,for the motor boat there are several makes of vaporizers which will handle either gasoline or kerosene1 and all intermediate grades1 by slight adjustment4 ,it is possible that some ingenious builder will devise a similar vaporizer for the automobile engine1 if gasoline continues to decline in quality1 and to be short in supply as well4 ,an easy test to see whether the carburetor is working right is to run several blocks with the throttle practically closed1 then1 when the road is clear1 press sharply upon the accelerator pedal1 which opens the throttle wide and should make the engine speed up and the car jump forward4 ,if it is sluggish it will denote a too rich mixture1 and if it sputters and perhaps backfires1 it is too lean4 ,but if1 with smooth yet rapid action1 it makes the car speed up1 that is 8pep40 ,the amount of pep which a car is said to possess is gauged by the quickness with which it responds to the acceleration1 either by the pedal or by throttle lever1 changing the car from slow or moderate speed to full speed4 ,that1 too1 without jerky action or tearing the motor apart4 ,while this test1 showing the presence of pep1 will denote that the mixture passing through the carburetor is correct1 absence of pep does not always mean that it is wrong4 ,therefore it is not wise to jump to the conclusion that the adjustment is wrong4 ,in fact the adjustment should not be changed unless it is fully certain that it is wrong4 ,if the car has been running with the carburetor working properly and no one has changed the adjustment1 it may safely be assumed that the carburetor adjustment is correct4 ,adjustments are not changed except by someone's fingers4 ,do not be like the new chauffeur who1 having trouble1 at once descended upon the carburetor4 ,another chauffeur whose car was standing near advised3 8,i wouldn't touch that1 boss40 8,well1 there's something the matter and ,i guess it's here10 said the troubled one4 8,i wouldn't touch it1 boss2 try somewhere else40 8,oh2 let's see what's on the inside of it10 impatiently exclaimed the new chauffeur1 and he proceeded to unscrew and unbolt the parts4 ,of course1 he had to send to the garage for a repair man and finally was towed in for complete reassembly and readjustment of the part4 ,the lesson in all this for the owner is that he should learn the make-up and peculiarities of his carburetor1 understand its common and uncommon ills and thus be able to remedy a trouble which would mar a trip or the general serviceability of the car4 ,it is unnecessary to go into the detail of any make of carburetor1 because if the manufacturer's instruction book does not contain full information and sketches of the make used1 a special carburetor book may be obtained from the maker4 ,but there is no excuse for failure to master the lungs of the engine and to learn how to keep them breathing properly4 ,,chapter ,x ,,getting ,,the ,,most ,,out ,,of ,a ,,gallon ,,of ,,gas ,with the price of gasoline constantly mounting skyward and tires following when not leading the rise1 while everything else needed for automobile upkeep is ascendant1 it is timely to assert the need that the owner consider his expense and renewal costs4 ,and when it is considered that labor and repair parts have pirouetted along with the other things1 it behooves the owner to devise ways of decreasing his running expenses and to learn how to get as much as possible out of a gallon of gas1 and every mile out of his tires they can be coaxed to give4 ,there are many little expenses about running a car which total a considerable sum4 ,a nickel1 a dime1 a quarter1 a dollar1 do not seem much at the time1 but they pile up the cost per mile frightfully4 ,not everyone can be like a friend1 who1 when cautioned about the way his chauffeur was running up the cost of his several cars1 replied3 8,i don't want to know what my cars cost4 ,if ,i did1 my business instinct would doubtless make me dispose of them all1 and ,i do not want to do this4 ,the cars are a luxury and ,i don't want to know what they cost40 ,a car which lasts with ordinary care one or two years1 if given intelligent care by the owner might be made to last three to five years4 ,this means taking unusual precaution and having a thorough knowledge of the working parts and of how to keep them in condition1 and it means doing faithfully and persistently the things necessary to keep everything in order4 ,when it is considered that under prevailing conditions it may not be possible to get a new car as often as it has been in the past1 it might be as well to take care of the cars we have rather than let them go to rack and ruin for lack of care4 ,a good many automobiles are wasted more than they are used4 ,in some cases this is due to carelessness and in others by lack of knowledge of what to do and how to do it4 ,take tires1 for instance4 ,the cost due to neglect is often greater than the cost of actual wear4 ,some of the things which cause excessive wear and deterioration of tires are driving into holes in the street1 or in deep ruts1 turning corners at too high speed1 stopping the car so quickly with the brake that the wheels slide on the pavement1 and a harsh clutch which jerks the car suddenly from a standstill1 causing needless wear4 ,then there are such things as letting the front wheels get out of alignment so that they do not run parallel1 or nearly so1 the action being that the tire is slid1 instead of being rolled1 over the road4 ,there should be a slight toe in1 for mechanical reasons1 as explained elsewhere1 but if this is allowed to go beyond the proper limit it costs money4 ,adjusters tell us that a very large percentage of tire failures is caused by under-inflation1 which allows the tires to flatten and breaks the side walls4 ,every tire should be tested with a gauge and not with the eye or hand and kept to the pressure named by the tire maker4 ,to get the greatest life out of a tire it should be watched continually for small cuts through the rubber to the fabric4 ,most tires will be found after a short service to have from two to a dozen such cuts4 ,these will allow sand to work in and loosen the rubber and then moisture gets in and rots the fabric4 ,there are preparations with which these cuts may be healed in a few minutes2 serious cuts1 especially where the rubber is loosened from the fabric1 should be taken at once to the vulcanizer4 ,while oil and grease of good quality cost money1 their proper use will save many times their price in replacement of parts4 ,on the other hand1 a waste of lubricant makes unnecessary expense4 ,especially with a new car1 oil and grease should be carefully watched until the bearings have had time to work in4 ,that is the time when expense for replacement of bearings is most likely4 ,it is not generally realized that a large number of things enter into the economical use of gasoline4 ,to get the most out of a gallon of gasoline all moving parts must work properly4 ,this means proper lubrication4 ,the brakes should not drag2 each cylinder of the engine should fire properly2 the clutch should not slip1 and the carburetor should be in proper adjustment4 ,it is not well to adjust the carburetor unless you are sure it is at fault4 ,excessive carbon in the cylinder causes a decided loss of power1 due to back pressure on the piston1 and the partial clogging of the muffler indirectly consumes extra gasoline4 ,the importance of keeping the muffler free is not usually understood4 ,to insure each cylinder getting its proper power without waste1 the engine should be driven with the spark lever advanced as far as possible without causing back pressure4 ,the spark-plug gaps should be properly adjusted to insure a thorough ignition of the charge2 the spark plugs should be kept clean to prevent the loss of a charge of gas through non-ignition1 likewise the interrupter points1 and the distributor should be kept clean and properly adjusted4 ,to use all the gas that is taken into the cylinder there should be no loss of compression through leaky valves1 or weak valve springs1 or poor gaskets on spark plugs or valve caps2 and it is equally important that pet cocks1 cylinder head1 where there is one1 and piston rings are tight1 so that gas will not be wasted4 ,it is not safe to leave these things to the chauffeur and the garage man4 ,the owner should learn himself how to make all these adjustments4 ,if he does so he will find that his propelling machine will work better1 and that he will not only have more use and pleasure out of it1 but he will save a very appreciable part of the cost of up-keep4 ,,chapter ,,xi ,,things ,,which ,,make ,,gas ,,bills ,,high ,there are other things which affect the amount of gas consumed which need the attention of the automobile owner4 ,one of the common things1 mentioned in the preceding chapter1 concerns the intake manifold1 which has to do with the distribution of the gas mixture from the carburetor to the several cylinders4 ,a leak at the carburetor side would prevent drawing into the manifold a sufficient supply of the mixture1 so that the cylinders would be scantily supplied--perhaps one or more not supplied at all4 ,likewise air would be drawn into the manifold through the leak1 and this would thin the mixture coming from the carburetor4 ,as the mixture in the cylinders would be thin it would not compress properly1 the firing pressure would be poor1 the mixture would fire badly or not at all1 and the power would be lessened4 ,the natural thing to do when the misfiring is noticed is to open the spray or needle valve1 admitting more gasoline to the mixing chamber and making a higher consumption with no gain in power4 ,the proper thing to do1 however1 is to look for a leak in the manifold4 ,if the leak is on the cylinder side of the manifold1 it might be at one or all of the cylinders4 ,the result would be the same as in the case just cited1 a poor supply of the mixture1 or some of the cylinders might be properly supplied and work all right1 while others might be short of the mixture and might not fire at all4 ,the loss might be sufficient to affect seriously the power and lessen the speed of the car4 ,the manifold ought not to become loosened in the ordinary use of the car4 ,there have been cases where vibration has done it1 but the usual trouble is where the manifold has been removed for some purpose and improperly replaced4 ,copper and asbestos gaskets ordinarily are used1 and these may be dented or jammed out of shape so that the joint is not tight1 or there might have been no shellac handy1 or the bolts may not have been tightened enough4 ,whatever the reason1 the leak makes a weak mixture1 and the first thought of the chauffeur or the average garage man is to increase the gasoline at the spray nozzle of the carburetor to make the mixture of the right proportion to fire4 ,on account of the mixture being made in the intake manifold1 instead of the carburetor1 as it should be1 the work is not efficiently done and gasoline is wasted1 the result being the increase of the expense account4 ,one of the most common causes of gas loss is from leaky supply pipes4 ,where there is a solid pipe from tank to carburetor the only leak1 barring a break or perforation of the pipe1 would be at the connection with the tank or the carburetor4 ,vibration might cause the joints to loosen1 though if they are put together properly with shellac1 soap or some equivalent1 and are thoroughly tightened1 there ought not to be any loosening4 ,it is needless1 but how often we see a car dripping gasoline at considerable loss4 ,it is also dangerous1 for a stray flame or spark may ignite the gas4 ,there is another leak of the same nature which is quite as expensive1 and that is of lubricating oil4 ,if you do not believe it to be prevalent or serious in extent1 you have only to watch places where automobiles stand frequently along the curb and notice the pools of oil on the pavement4 ,these come from leaky crank cases1 transmission gear cases1 rear-axle gear 7differential7 cases1 or from a faulty distributor4 ,in most cases it is only a matter of tightening a few bolts or connections occasionally2 but with oil at present prices it is a serious matter4 ,another leak which needs to be corrected frequently is at the valves4 ,so much has been written about the care of valves that it would seem superfluous to refer to it1 but regrinding and proper care pay big dividends in efficiency and should be on the regular program4 ,there is a leak at the valve1 however1 seldom mentioned1 though quite as serious as the others1 which is due to worn valve stems4 ,the valve stems should fit snugly in the guides2 if they do not1 air will be drawn past the stem into the cylinder on the suction stroke and thin down the mixture so that the engine runs irregularly1 unless more gasoline is supplied at the spray nozzle1 and throttling down to a reasonable idling speed is impossible4 ,if the exhaust valve guide is worn there will be a hissing sound that is objectionable4 ,the purpose of repeating this caution as to mixture thinning is to make it plain that wherever there is a leak between the carburetor and the cylinder it lets in air and thins the mixture so that it is necessary to feed in more gasoline to get a mixture that will fire and that is wasteful1 for a mixture made anywhere else than in the carburetor is less efficiently accomplished4 ,the burned gases pass out through the exhaust valve side and in so doing often deposit small pieces of carbon1 which keep the valve from seating properly and let perfectly good mixture escape4 ,if not cleaned often1 the heat and constant tapping of the valve against the seat will hammer the carbon fast to the valve or seat as though it had been fused there4 ,carbon must be scraped off frequently and as often as necessary the valve should be reground into the seat4 ,piston rings which are not pinned often work around until the slots are in line and the mixture will blow through4 ,if the rings will not stay in place a pin should be put in the ring groove on the piston to prevent the ring from working around and the slots should be staggered1 so that no two are in line4 ,naturally the rings must be kept free from carbon or gum from the oil or they will freeze to the groove and leak mixture4 ,in older cars the cylinder may be worn oval1 so that the piston and its rings do not fit4 ,when the cylinder is oval the piston will not pump in the mixture properly1 and when the explosion occurs much of the burned gas will be forced down into the crank case4 ,one of the products of combustion is water1 which is exhausted in the form of vapor4 ,when it gets into the crank case and condenses1 forming water1 it collects under the oil4 ,in cleaning out and replacing the oil1 if water is found1 it always indicates a tendency to oval in the cylinder4 ,this is caused by the thrust of the connecting rod being against one side on the up stroke and against the other on the down stroke4 ,with everything else there may be a loss of gasoline by reason of poor adjustment of the carburetor4 ,the adjustment should be such as to make the mixture as lean as possible and have it fire readily1 and to have the float not too high4 ,one sure indication that the mixture is too rich is when black smoke is given off4 ,black smoke always indicates excess gasoline--burning money4 ,as has been told in another chapter1 there is another kind of smoke to guard against1 but if the owner will make sure that he is not exhausting black smoke he need not worry about the price of gasoline1 and a little judgment and care will eliminate many of the items of upkeep expense4 ,,chapter ,,xii ,,care ,,of ,,the ,,tires ,when a tire buyer is told by the dealer that a tire is guaranteed for so many miles1 the manufacturer expects to make good--he expects if the tire falls down on performance to replace it1 or at least make an allowance for the mileage short4 ,as a matter of fact they do not have to do this on thousands of tires which are defective1 for the reason that the auto owner has not kept his part of the bargain4 ,nine times out of ten this is because the user of the tire does not know how it ought to be treated and doctored and cajoled into doing all that it is expected to do4 ,tires are a great deal like human beings2 are just as finicky and contrary2 and it takes a great insight into their make-up if one would get the most out of them4 ,one of the chief causes of tire deterioration is lack of care--absolute neglect4 ,drivers send their machines over all kinds of roads1 regardless of ruts1 and stones1 and glass or junk in the roadway1 and then cannot understand why the tires are all cut up about it4 ,worse than that1 they do not seem to understand that a cut tire needs as much and as prompt attention as a cut finger--perhaps more1 for nature will mend the one2 the other has no such luck4 ,the first thing to do when one discovers a cut is to clean it out and jiffy in one of the good solutions sold1 which will cement the edges together or press in the putty-like repair material4 ,if the cut is not too large or too deep it will mend easily and give little trouble1 if care is taken4 ,if it is a large cut the vulcanizer should be visited4 ,the cement should hold long enough for that4 ,it will keep out water1 which rots the fabric easily1 and sand1 which makes blisters along the tread4 ,only a slight patch is needed if done promptly1 but if water and sand get in it is almost impossible to vulcanize in a patch1 and when it is done it probably will not last4 ,tires should be inspected regularly and often and attended to intelligently4 ,this will save the automobile owner much annoyance and cut down one of the big items of maintenance4 ,some drivers1 too1 never seem to think of favoring an auto tire at times of greatest strain4 ,they will whirl around a corner as fast as their nerve and the traffic policeman will allow and then wonder why it is that the tread wears away so quickly4 ,they do not seem to understand that under such circumstances there is a steady grind of tire upon pavement1 and grind means wear4 ,another set of drivers will run along for weeks without noticing that the steering gear is out of true4 ,perhaps the machine has hit something and the equalizing rod is bent just a trifle1 making the front wheels far from parallel4 ,it may not be enough to see with the eye1 but it is off true and one or both of the tires grinds with every revolution4 ,the speed with which the tread will wear away depends upon the character of the roadway4 ,on gravel or macadam roads it is fast4 ,the manufacturer will not replace a tire worn out that way if he can detect the cause1 and experience has taught him where to look for it4 ,one man wore a pair of front tires through to the fabric in a very short run and raised a fuss because the replacement man disclaimed responsibility after testing the wheels4 ,the roll and slide motion combined will work havoc with the best tire and should be corrected4 ,a harsh clutch does the same thing in a little different way4 ,a clutch which grips too hard will cause the wheels to slide and wear4 ,the brake1 also1 should not be too positive1 but be adjusted to work easily1 so that the wheel will stop turning just as the momentum is spent1 to prevent sliding4 ,both brakes should be adjusted alike1 or one will grip the wheel fast and the other turn4 ,the gripped tire will scrape along and the pavement cuts the tire like a rasp4 ,another set of men forgets that oil and grease and gasoline are the natural enemies of tires4 ,they allow the machine to stand in the garage where there are pools of oil or gas4 ,gasoline will dissolve gum rubber4 ,it will disintegrate the tire1 which is a combination of rubber1 soapstone1 and other things1 so that it wears out quickly4 ,lubricating oil and grease hasten the decay of rubber and shorten the life of the tire4 ,besides there is no sense in wasting oil and gas1 and if someone else allows it to spill on the pavement the wise man will keep out of the mess4 ,in wet seasons there is especial need for care of the tire4 ,rubber cuts easily when the sharp edge of the cutting agent is wet4 ,tire workers dip their knives in water to facilitate the work4 ,go out on a road where there is glass1 or sharp stones dripping from a rain1 and the tire is an easy mark4 ,a wet day on a sharp gravel road will fill the tires full of small cuts4 ,tubes should be kept in the shoes where possible4 ,if folded up they are likely to harden on the creases and crack on the surface1 blowing out easily4 ,tubes in excess of shoes carried should be rolled up carefully and be kept in a bag to prevent chafing on tools or box4 ,tires cost the owner about the same as the car if he does much running4 ,in a general sense the set of four tires used on any car bears a certain proportion to the selling price of the car4 ,on the cheaper makes of cars the tires cost new approximately #fj per set4 ,they increase in price in direct ratio to the price of the car4 ,they are usually guaranteed for five thousand miles1 and as the average owner makes at least ten thousand miles per year1 he uses up two sets of tires4 ,taking three years as the average time the owner will keep the car before trading it in1 would mean six sets of tires4 ,taking the car which uses the #fj set and we find that six sets of tires would cost #cfj1 or pretty near the first cost of the car4 ,few owners give consideration to this fact4 ,another way of figuring the cost of tires is that in upkeep expense tires figure for one-third of the total1 gasoline and oil for another third1 and wear and tear on the car the remainder4 ,upon this basis the owner should give one-third of the total care to the tires4 ,but few1 if any1 do4 ,when the car is stored for the winter1 or for any length of time at any other season1 the car should be jacked up and the tires deflated until the pressure is less than half the normal4 ,where the car cannot be left jacked up the tires should be removed from the car and hung up high and dry where there will be neither extremes of heat nor cold1 though heat is more injurious than cold4 ,it is good practice1 if1 on coming to the garage1 it is found that one or more tires are deflated below normal and there is no time to pump them up1 to lift the weight off the tire with jack or otherwise1 so that the strain will be removed from the walls of the tire between the rim and the floor or ground4 ,do not put tires where they will be subject to strong sunlight1 which decomposes the rubber4 ,oil and grease left on the surface do the same thing4 ,clean the tires of mud and grease after every trip4 ,keep the small cuts healed and the big blisters will not occur4 ,make friends with the vulcanizer and take his advice as to repair of your tires4 ,that's his business4 ,if too far from a vulcanizer1 buy a small outfit and spoil a few casings and tubes learning how to do the small jobs1 and send the big ones to the shop by express4 ,remember in mending tubes and casings that cleanliness is before godliness4 ,you may be a perfect church member1 but if you do not observe perfect cleanliness the mend will not stick and in the end may lose you your church membership by provoking you to violent words4 ,throw away the valve insides every once in a while on general principles and put in new ones4 ,learn how to test the tubes by dipping them under water when inflated and looking for air bubbles4 ,test the valve the same way1 at the same time4 ,bubbles may indicate why the tire will not keep pumped hard4 ,rubber is porous to a slight degree and you must expect loss of air from that cause both in the tires on the wheels and that held in reserve4 ,make sure of the pressure by the tire gauge4 ,,chapter ,,xiii ,,skidding ,,may ,,be ,,minimized ,when you are out driving next time watch the cars ahead of you and notice how many of them have wobbly rear wheels4 ,you can by this means tell fairly well who is a careful driver and whose car has been skidding about the streets and has brought up sharply against the curb1 or car track1 or rut1 or some other obstruction over which the wheels would not slide1 and which was sufficiently solid to give them a hard knock4 ,no man can appreciate what a skid means until he has had one and then1 perhaps1 he will not live to appreciate it4 ,no amount of preaching seems to do any good4 ,he must sow his wild auto-driving oats and learn from experience4 ,because of this1 it is recommended that each driver who has not had a real skid yet1 pick out a very broad and wet street paved with asphalt where there is no traffic in sight4 ,let him drive the car fifteen miles an hour up the middle of the street1 then give the steering wheel a sharp turn to the left1 at the same time applying the brakes4 ,the resulting sensation of absolute helplessness will be remembered for an hour or two--at least4 ,for those who wish to continue the lesson1 try allowing some other driver to repeat the operation1 while the experience seeker occupies the back seat4 ,now the skid against the curb or other obstruction may not have demolished the wheel1 but it left its mark in cracked spokes1 or bent rim1 or if the car was of a certain type of construction it may have bent the axle shaft itself4 ,if the wobble is due to a bend in the rim1 it wears the tires excessively and if the spokes have been a little cracked it weakens the wheel2 if the axle shaft has been bent1 it is causing undue wear in the bearing2 and under all of these conditions there is too much wear of the tires4 ,during the winter skidding is prevalent1 much more so than at other seasons4 ,this is due to the fact that snow and ice keep the pavements wet or icy1 according to the temperature4 ,there is another element entering into the situation1 however2 most folks who travel at this time of the year1 because of the cold and discomforts of motoring1 desire to get there and so travel faster--the very fact that they are uncomfortable causes them to pay less attention to driving with care4 ,the result is that they run up close behind some other vehicle1 which stops quickly2 then they jam on the brakes hard and skid4 ,or1 a car comes out of a side street suddenly1 making it necessary to swerve quickly to one side1 or stop1 and the result is a skid in either case4 ,a rather unusual case of skidding is thus related by a driver3 ,i was driving up ,broadway1 in ,new ,york ,city1 and to make the hill north of #aegth ,street had put on a little more speed1 for the car was not a good hill climber4 ,a block or two above the subway station a boy on a sled darted out of a side street and swung to continue down the ,broadway hill4 ,to avoid hitting him ,i jammed on the brake hard1 and began to skid4 ,there was a wagon at the curb and on the other side of me an auto going in the same direction and there was not room to turn out4 ,i saw that if my car continued to skid it would swing in front of the sled4 ,it is unusual to skid going up hill1 but there was so much loose snow1 with ice underneath1 that the skid chains did not take hold4 ,there was but an instant to act1 much less time than it takes to tell it1 and ,i released the brake and let in the clutch4 ,this stopped the skidding and the car shot forward just in time to let the boy go by4 ,probably the greatest cause of skidding is turning the corner at too high speed4 ,this often causes a skidding of the front wheels as well as the rear wheels--that is1 the car is going so fast that the front wheels do not get traction enough to change their direction and when they attempt to make the turn they skid and the car goes for the curb4 ,applying the brake usually will overcome this skid4 ,in a rear-wheel skid the worst thing one can do is to apply the brake4 ,it is best to let the car coast1 turning the front wheels in the direction in which the rear end of the car is skidding2 if it is trying to go to the left1 turn the front wheels that way4 ,if there is something in the way1 so that it is necessary to stop1 the brake may be applied a little as the wheels take hold1 leaving the clutch engaged1 which prevents locking the wheels1 as the engine is pulling against the brake and there is not so much danger of locking the wheels4 ,it keeps the wheels revolving slowly1 so that you get a better traction for stopping4 ,it takes a greater pressure applied laterally to start the wheel sliding than to keep it skidding once it is started1 and you can bring the car to a standstill much quicker if you can keep the wheels from sliding4 ,a little practice will teach the driver just how much he can apply the brake without causing the wheels to skid4 ,the bent axle has been mentioned as a result of skidding4 ,it may also be a cause for skidding1 for it sometimes happens that by hitting the curb hard1 or the wheel of another car1 or a street car1 the rear axle gets out of true--perhaps the spring-seat bolt will shear off--and the wheels will not track with the front wheels4 ,this will cause skidding4 ,when there is not snow during the cold months1 often water is used to sweep or flush the streets4 ,wet asphalt is always slippery1 whether it is warm or cold1 but in cold weather it often freezes and the pavement is dangerous and skidding is almost certain unless care be taken4 ,the street-car tracks are another cause of skidding4 ,often it is necessary to give the front wheels a considerable turn to get out of the track when necessary1 and1 especially if they are wet--and they are wet when other parts of the pavement are dry--the rear wheels will continue in the tracks1 causing a bad skid4 ,under no circumstances should one habitually drive in the car tracks when the streets are wet4 ,if the brakes are adjusted unevenly1 so that there is a little more pressure on the one wheel than the other and therefore stops it a little more1 it will cause skidding4 ,another case may come from giving the steering wheel a little twist just as the brake is applied4 ,occasionally in an emergency stop the driver will give a hasty glance behind to see if a car is close upon him4 ,the hands follow the eye1 it is said1 and this will often give the slight twist that causes the wheels to slide4 ,some cars skid because the weight is not balanced on the wheels--that is1 there is too much weight on front or rear wheels4 ,there is a remarkable difference in cars in this respect and it might be well before buying a car to try it out on its likelihood to skid4 ,there are numerous designs of non-skid tires and they do prevent1 or decrease1 skidding to a very large degree on some cars4 ,while they help in some cases1 it is not well to depend upon them entirely4 ,it is the general practice now to use non-skid chains4 ,on muddy roads they are a necessity and on wet asphalt are almost as essential and chains should be used under such circumstances2 but as they cause excessive wear on the tires1 they should only be used when needed4 ,the driver should not allow himself to be either too hurried or too lazy to put them on and take them off according to the condition of the pavement4 ,better to do this a dozen times a day rather than wear out a set of tires or skid into the curb or a street car4 ,they should be adjusted loosely1 so they can creep around and wear the entire circumference of the tire slightly but evenly2 if they are so tight they cannot creep1 the cross chains will cut away the outer rubber right down to the fabric4 ,a great many tires are ruined in that way4 ,tires cut this way cannot be turned back to the manufacturer for replacement1 for the adjuster will know at once what caused the wear4 ,be sure there are a sufficient number of cross chains so that it will not be possible for the brakes to stop the wheel between the cross links1 for in that event it will slide just as badly as though no chains were used4 ,as a car is more likely to skid going down grade than on the level1 it follows that extra care should be exercised1 and that the driver should slow speed for a stop farther away than would ordinarily be necessary1 and that the stop should be gradual4 ,one should watch closely on a hill1 for there is a greater coasting momentum and a greater tendency for the rear wheels to slew around1 because of the weight upon them4 ,after all1 the greatest preventive of skidding is care4 ,the driver who keeps his eyes and wits about him will have his car under control in situations which might possibly cause skidding4 ,it is an essential of economy in tires and wheels and some other parts of the mechanism1 and it is an essential in safety1 for some very bad1 even fatal1 accidents have come from skidding at an unfortunate moment1 when care would have prevented it4 ,it is no fun to incur injury to person or car1 or to pay for repairs or excessive renewals2 he who would avoid causes for much of this should beware of skidding4 ,,chapter ,,xiv 8,,can',t-,,slip ,,heels0 ,,lessen ,,skidding ,if your auto is not equipped with 8,can't-,slip ,heels10 the green or pink plugged shock absorbers1 the same as you wear on your own heels to keep from skidding over the sidewalk1 perhaps it were well to look into it a little4 ,autos as well as men take to skidding quite easily1 and not infrequently come to grief4 ,we use rubber heels to absorb shocks and jars just as we use rubber tires on the auto to absorb road shocks4 ,we find in both instances that in wet weather the pavement becomes lubricated and a slip or skid is likely to result in damage to person or car4 ,in the case of rubber heels it was found desirable to provide some means to prevent slipping1 and plugs were inserted which grip the ice or slippery surface and hold fast4 ,tire manufacturers have developed all sorts of devices1 such as projections and recesses1 vacuum cups1 etc41 in the tread of the tire1 to keep them from slipping4 ,in one case the device has been very successful1 where the manufacturer has inserted strips of cotton fabric in the tread of the tire1 on the same principle as the plug in the rubber heels4 ,the fabric1 really a thick canvas1 projects a very little beyond the rubber surface1 and gives the tire a better traction than plain rubber would have on a slippery pavement1 and makes one of the best non-skid combinations4 ,you doubtless will remember that rubbers worn smooth are more slippery than the leather heels with their nails2 or that the rubber heels which have no plugs get very 8slick0 and are worse than nothing4 ,it is exactly the same with rubber tires4 ,no matter with what non-skid device tires are equipped1 there is always the danger of slipping when the pavements are wet or slushy1 and the fact that such equipment is used should not make the driver think that he can drive at high speed with safety4 ,on ordinary wet pavements very satisfactory results are obtained with most of the regular non-skid types of tires4 ,where ice or packed snow or surface mud is encountered1 chains are better4 ,in very deep mud1 loose sand1 or loose snow1 heavy rope wrapped around the tire between the spokes will probably be found best4 ,in an emergency1 when caught out in the country1 it might be necessary to cut up a blanket or find some other substitute for the rope4 ,when there is a telephone pole or post near at hand when the car becomes stuck in loose snow1 sand1 or deep mud1 often the car may be pulled out if a tow rope long enough is handy4 ,fasten one end of the rope to the pole and the other to the forward part of the rear wheel4 ,then start the engine and if the rope is strong enough and it is stretched tight enough1 as the wheel revolves it will start the car forward4 ,take a fresh hitch on the pole and try it again4 ,a few inches at a time it will pull the car forward1 a distance equal to about the diameter of the wheel1 and in time get the wheel out of the rut or hole so that it may grip the solid earth again4 ,the flat steel stud tires are absolutely worthless on ice2 they are good skates1 but for gripping the ice they are failures4 ,the great majority of skids are due to excessive speed4 ,the author has been told by a driver who drifted into another car and broke both headlights that he was only going ten miles an hour4 ,this was probably true1 but unquestionably he was going too fast for the condition of the streets and his tires4 ,it is quite necessary that the driver should know how his car is going to behave under all conditions and drive accordingly4 ,occasionally the crown of the road will cause a slip of front or rear wheels to the side that cannot be prevented by a reduction in speed2 but the careful driver will at least drive slow enough under such conditions to make whatever damage might occur from this cause as light as possible4 ,wherever a road has a crown there is always increased danger of skidding1 but often these roads that have a hard slippery section in the middle have a narrow strip of gravel or dirt on each side4 ,where this is the case it would be better to drive with one pair of wheels in the dirt rather than to keep in the middle1 where slipping is almost unavoidable4 ,in other cases1 where there is no dirt strip1 it is perhaps better to keep right in the middle of the road and to use great caution in turning out for other vehicles4 ,rounding a corner at high speed is1 of course1 a direct invitation for a very serious skid4 ,making sharp turns of the steering wheel on straightaway is also dangerous4 ,when driving in traffic on slippery pavements1 care should be taken not to follow another vehicle too close and to judge stops far enough in advance so that the car may be brought to a standstill1 if necessary1 several feet before the desired point is reached4 ,in other words1 the brakes should be applied very carefully4 ,in extreme cases it may be found impossible to apply the brakes at all without skidding1 and it will be necessary to practically allow the car to drift to a standstill4 ,brakes which are adjusted so that one takes hold a little stronger than the other will also cause a skid1 by permitting one wheel to turn and twist the car about4 ,when skidding does occur1 about the only thing the driver can do is to turn the steering wheel in the direction of the skidding1 with no pressure on the brake4 ,this will correct the skid before damage is done1 provided the speed is not too great4 ,another help in preventing skidding is to leave the clutch engaged and the engine pulling slightly when the brake is applied4 ,of course1 before the car is actually brought to a standstill the clutch must be released1 or the engine will stall4 ,the slight pull of the engine when the brake is applied prevents the locking of the rear wheels1 and in that way prevents skidding in a large measure4 ,on any stormy day a short tour of any of the much used avenues in any city will disclose a variety of machines which have had their skid and are against the curb with broken wheels1 if nothing worse4 ,it seems as though no amount of advice will teach the driver to use care on slippery pavements4 ,he must have his own skid before he learns his lesson4 ,the season for skidding is always with us1 however1 and every patch of ice1 or a frozen or wet street surface1 or a muddy country road gives the warning 8,drive ,carefully40 ,it behooves the owner1 therefore1 to provide his car with the best safety devices to be had1 whether it be chains1 rope1 tires with plugs which encircle the tread1 or whatever may be necessary4 ,he will do this if he has had his skid2 if he hasn't1 probably no amount of advice will have the slightest effect upon him4 ,,chapter ,,xv ,,avoid ,,newly ,,oiled ,,roads ,tourists going out on week-end trips into the country1 and country owners who go into strange sections1 should pay strict attention to signs which say in effect3 8,danger1 ,road ,being ,oiled40 ,it does not matter in the least whether you believe in signs or not1 pay attention to all such2 it may save an upset1 or at least skidding into the ditch4 ,an oily macadam road is more slippery even than a wet asphalt pavement4 ,the danger is greater from the fact that the road is crowned--that is1 it rises in the center and slopes off on either side to a ditch4 ,if you get off the crown on an oily road the machine is pretty sure to slide toward the ditch4 ,in running over an oily road it is necessary to keep on the crown as much as possible and when one has to pass another vehicle1 if he cares much for his safety1 he had better slow down1 or come to a stop1 and let the other fellow worry about getting by4 ,an ounce of caution before is worth several horse-power of energy in getting the car back after it goes in the ditch or tries to climb a telegraph pole4 ,recently the author had occasion to visit ,orange ,county1 ,new ,york1 and struck a piece of very heavily oiled road near ,goshen4 ,it apparently had been oiled the night before and the workmen had not finished putting on the binder4 ,it was thick with oil4 ,the road makers knew it was dangerous and put up a sign similar to that quoted above1 but a big car ahead went down a little slope leading to the oil and the driver failed to heed the sign quickly enough1 and when we caught up with him he was in the ditch4 ,coming up were half a dozen other cars sliding all around but trying to get to the ditched car to give assistance4 ,the big car had slowed down somewhat1 else it would have gone over into the field1 but it had turned completely around and was headed in the direction whence it had come4 ,the other cars were sliding in every direction4 ,when he found his car beginning to slide1 the author very cautiously stopped1 for his car was just moving4 ,on inquiring of the driver of the skidded car1 he was told that when the latter had found himself skidding around he had jammed on the brake1 and1 of course1 just as might have been expected1 the rear of the car went right around4 ,in going up the slight rise of ground1 the author met other cars and had to leave the crown of the road4 ,immediately the rear tires began to slide and he went for some distance with the rear pair of wheels trying to slide down into the ditch while the front pair were holding fairly well to the road4 ,as soon as he could get back on the crown of the road again1 of course the car straightened out all right4 ,any car which struck the oiled road on high speed would have turned over or smashed against a telephone pole and probably everybody aboard would have been hurt1 if not killed2 so it is wise not to be so absorbed in entertaining one's friends that warning signs are missed4 ,,chapter ,,xvi ,,watch ,,your ,,brakes ,look well to the condition of the brakes on your car before starting on a trip4 ,see that they are in good shape even if you do not have time to look over the engine4 ,the brakes are more important than the engine4 ,it needs an engine in at least fair condition to get anywhere1 but if you do not have brakes you may get too far--too eternally far4 ,manufacturers of cars have recognized the importance of the brake appliances and have given considerable attention to the improvement of the brake1 designing more efficient operating mechanism1 increasing the size of the braking surface and improving the quality of the friction materials1 and also in protecting the brakes from excessive wear due to grit and dragging of bands when not in use4 ,the brakes1 moreover1 on the average car of modern design1 are sufficient for all general use1 if used intelligently and if they are given a moderate amount of care4 ,but like most other parts of cars1 some owners give them no attention whatever1 and consequently there is frequent failure and often it is a matter of life and death when the brakes refuse to work properly4 ,first of all1 owners should understand that there are two sets of brakes on the car1 which operate independently of each other1 and each brake should be capable of holding the car at a standstill on practically any grade1 or1 as the chauffeur usually puts it1 8sliding the wheels40 ,a recent experience with a ,ford car illustrates the need of the owner thoroughly understanding his braking system4 ,this was a case of a new car where the owner had not yet become very familiar with the mechanism4 ,he came to a very long and fairly steep hill4 ,he released the clutch and applied the brake as he had been taught1 and got about two-thirds of the way down the hill when the brake lining burned out and the brake no longer held the car4 ,then1 because he forgot what he ought to do 7or else did not know71 the owner lost his head and thought he was going to smash1 and of course did4 ,the car ran into the ditch and upset1 bent the front axle1 broke the mud guards and top bows1 and mixed things up generally1 but fortunately no one was hurt4 ,this was all unnecessary1 for on this particular car he had three other means of braking4 ,he could have pushed the pedal which engages the low-speed gear and kept the car at low enough speed to negotiate the hill in safety4 ,or1 he could have pushed the reverse pedal1 which on this particular car would have acted as a very efficient brake4 ,and1 also1 he might have applied the emergency brake1 as on any other car4 ,as every car is equipped with two distinct sets of brakes1 drivers should learn to use first one and then the other on long grades1 and this may be helped out considerably by using the motor as a brake--that is1 by cutting off the ignition and allowing the machine to push the engine under compression1 and even more by engaging a lower gear before cutting off the ignition1 so that there is a greater leverage obtained to retard the car4 ,likewise1 long grades should be descended at a comparatively slow speed in cases where the brake is at all necessary1 because the higher speed develops more heat and the brake lining is more likely to burn out4 ,of course the brake lining has been improved so that it does not actually burn out very readily1 but under extreme conditions it will become charred and lose its frictional qualities4 ,perhaps one of the greatest causes of brake failure is oil4 ,now the oil which gets on the brakes usually works through the rear-axle housing from the differential gear4 ,the owner may be a little too enthusiastic about lubrication and may put too much oil in the differential and it travels along the inside of the axle tube4 ,the wheels are so placed on the axle that this oil can get out only by working over the wheel bearing and into the brake drum4 ,it will often be noticed that the oil collects mostly on the right-hand brake4 ,this is because the crown of the road1 and perhaps the ditch alongside of the road which is used in passing other cars1 tilts the car so that the right-hand wheel is lower than that on the left-hand side4 ,even where too much lubricant is not used1 it seems that some cars have a tendency to leak oil from the right-hand wheel housing4 ,usually this trouble may be overcome by taking a long1 thin strip of hard felt of the proper thickness to fill the space between the axle shaft and the axle housing1 and winding around the shaft in helical form1 so that the action1 when the shaft is turned1 is to force the oil back toward the differential4 ,of course1 if the felt is not wound in the right way it would have the opposite tendency and draw the oil out into the wheel bearing4 ,for this reason the felt should be wound1 starting from the wheel end1 in a direction opposite to the forward motion of the wheel1 covering the axle for a distance of six or eight inches4 ,the felt should be fastened to the shaft with shellac and bound in three or four places with cord4 ,while oil on the brake bands is not desirable1 oil on all of the bearing points of the brake mechanism is highly desirable4 ,some time1 when driving in a city1 take notice of the number of times the brake is applied4 ,then stop to think how each action is taking place in the brake mechanism4 ,this ought to bring one to realize the necessity of lubricating the bearing parts4 ,these need more frequent oiling because they are placed where they pick up more than the usual amount of dust and grit4 ,if the lubrication of these parts is neglected they are likely to wear unduly and become so weakened that a sudden emergent strain would mean a break2 and this might happen at a time when failure means death to the occupants of the car4 ,brakes of modern design are so arranged that the bands clear the drum entirely when they are disengaged4 ,this is done by means of springs and other devices placed around the drum at different points4 ,these springs should be inspected occasionally to make sure that they have not become broken or otherwise fail in the performance of their functions4 ,another cause of brake failure is due to the lining wearing thin and allowing the copper rivets1 with which it is fastened to the band1 to come in contact with the brake drum4 ,this in time scores grooves in the drum and greatly reduces the braking effect4 ,it is not economy1 therefore1 to wear the brake linings entirely through4 ,when they become thin the linings should be inspected1 and be replaced as soon as the rivets begin to show wear4 ,the usual practice is to have four brakes1 one on each rear wheel operated by the service-brake pedal and one on each rear wheel operated by the emergency lever4 ,the emergency brake is designed more for holding the car at standstill after it has been stopped1 but may be used alternately with the service brake on long grades4 ,the service brake should be kept in such condition that it will bring the car to a stop within a reasonable distance at any car speed1 and it should be understood by the driver that the emergency brake is not intended to be used to help out the service brake which holds poorly when a quick stop is desired4 ,illustration3 ,,rear ,,wheel ,,and ,,brake ,,drum ,,removed1 ,,showing ,,external ,,and ,,internal ,,brake ,,bands ,,and ,,mechanism ,many manufacturers term the second brake the hand brake1 rather than the emergency brake1 to discourage the idea that it is to be used to help out when an extra quick stop is desired4 ,too many owners go upon the assumption that one good brake is all that is necessary1 and allow one to get into such condition as to be useless when the other fails unexpectedly1 or when it is desirable to use the two sets alternately4 ,as to the adjustment of brakes1 it is very important1 in order to get the best braking effect--and to save wear on the tires as well--to have both brakes of a set give about the same friction4 ,there are two places where adjustments may be made1 one at each brake and one on the brake linkage1 usually on each side1 but possibly on the single rod connected to the pedal4 ,by means of these two adjustments it is possible to have the bands clear the drums when the brakes are released and at the same time have each brake start to take hold at the same time and with equal force4 ,the equalizing bar helps out in small variations1 but cannot be expected to take care of the entire adjustment4 ,when one considers the multitude of accidents because the 8brake gave way0 and of the risk taken by others who fail to care for this important bit of mechanism1 it would surely suggest to the careful man that he study the construction of the brake upon which he depends on a down grade and that he give it enough attention to know that it is in working order4 ,if he does not value his own neck enough for that1 he should at least have a care for those who share the danger4 ,,chapter ,,xvii ,,why ,,the ,,auto ,,steers ,,easily ,visions of disaster come to the automobile driver at the thought of running without the steering tie rod4 ,one thinks of wheels trying to go in divergent directions and of ultimate destination in the ditch4 ,as a matter of fact1 it is possible to run along quite a while at moderate speed with only one wheel connected to the steering apparatus1 and experiments have demonstrated that this can be done at quite a lively gait1 on a speed track1 whether straightaway or oval4 ,there are several other peculiarities about the front wheels of an automobile which are not fully understood by automobile men1 unless they have had technical training4 ,most people think the front wheels of an automobile should be perfectly true in every way2 that is that they should run parallel1 but as a matter of fact they do not run parallel from any viewpoint4 ,the front wheels actually toe in to a slight degrees--that is1 the distance between the front part of the wheels should be one-quarter to three-eighths of an inch smaller than the distance measured between the back parts4 ,the tire manufacturer will tell one that the wheels must be in perfect alignment if full service is to be gotten out of the tires4 ,this is true in a degree1 but auto manufacturers understand that there must be a slight foregather4 ,theoretically there would be a wear on the tires if they were at all out of true1 but when it comes to the practical consideration of an automobile there are certain variations of this which are necessary to make the operation of the car safe and a matter of ease4 ,of course there cannot be too great a difference in the alignment1 but a very slight difference is necessary to enable the steering to be a matter of certainty4 ,there will be1 of course1 an intangible amount of wear1 but it does not cut any particular figure in the life of the tire and it gives a stability in the steering which cannot be neglected4 ,perhaps it can best be illustrated by referring to two types of boats which are familiar to most persons4 ,one is the scow with the square nose1 which is very hard to steer either with or against the tide2 it is pushing flat against the water and there is no lateral pressure to keep it steady4 ,the pointed-bow boat1 the ordinary type1 has a pressure upon each bow so that there is a constant resistance against any extraordinary pressure from either direction4 ,this makes it necessary in steering to exert a certain pressure to turn the boat about4 ,in actual practice it keeps the boat from wobbling4 ,the same is true when applied to the front wheels4 ,if they are perfectly aligned there will be no tendency to give one way more than another and very little pressure would tend to turn the wheels aside and make the car wobble4 ,experience teaches that this actually occurs4 ,at the automobile school1 of course1 there are many novices learning to steer a car1 and they are taken out by experts4 ,where the wheels are actually aligned perfectly the wobbling effect1 especially where the mechanism is a little worn1 is very disconcerting to the student4 ,now1 if the wheels toe in there is exactly the same pressure effect working from opposite directions4 ,each seeks to go slightly out of true and each offsets that tendency in the other4 ,this naturally keeps the car steady and the wheels pass over slight obstructions without turning them in the slightest degree2 only a rut or some large obstruction would cause them to turn and this would be the case under all circumstances4 ,in case there is wear due to neglected lubrication or otherwise1 the wobbling tendency is especially noticeable4 ,with the wheels toeing in slightly this is overcome1 because pressure is exerted on the knuckle pins1 keeping them firmly in place1 even though there be considerable wear4 ,the pressure being from both sides1 it naturally takes up the play in both knuckles the same as with a chain when it is drawn tight4 ,nor do the front wheels run in an absolutely vertical position1 for they are set to undergather4 ,this is done to save the tremendous strain upon the knuckles and make it possible to have these much lighter than would otherwise be the case4 ,the fact of the undergather1 of course1 takes the strain off the steering knuckle pins4 ,were the wheels absolutely vertical they would set two or perhaps three inches outside the knuckle4 ,the weight line being directly through the knuckle to the ground1 there would be a leverage of two or three inches which would put a tremendous strain directly upon the knuckle2 where the wheels are undergathered1 the line of weight intersects both the knuckle and the tread contact1 removing the item of leverage completely1 and the wheel necessarily bears its full proportion of the load without undue strain upon the knuckle or pin4 ,sometimes the pins are inclined fore and aft1 that is1 the bottom is farther forward than the top4 ,this is to help in keeping the wheels pointed straight ahead by making the wheels into sort of a caster1 so that they trail easily4 ,the knuckles are directly over the center of the wheels and the line of weight would be directly downward1 but the pins point forward4 ,in this way1 as engineers readily understand1 the line of weight is moved forward and the weight is carried ahead of the contact point of the tire with the ground4 ,anyone who has ever ridden a bicycle understands the principle of this4 ,in the old velocipedes where the wheel fork was vertical1 it was very difficult to steer4 ,bicycle manufacturers discovered that by projecting the fork forward and transferring the weight line in advance of the wheel1 they were able to make a machine which would naturally go straight ahead4 ,the principle is exactly that of the caster4 ,the roller trails along after the weight and so moves freely1 even over obstructions1 where it would be hard going if the roller were directly under the weight4 ,now1 as a matter of fact1 wheels which are set in the manner described may run for a considerable distance without the tie rod1 which fastens the knuckles together4 ,it is usually understood that when the tie rod breaks there is bound to be a smash at high speed1 and under most circumstances this might be true1 but at moderate speeds it often happens that the car runs a considerable distance1 steering perfectly1 after the tie rod has been broken4 ,the author had an experience of this kind4 ,he was going up ,riverside ,drive in ,new ,york ,city1 toward the viaduct4 ,after he had gone almost across the viaduct he was startled to see what looked like the tie rod protruding out in front of the car1 although the car was moving along with no sign of trouble4 ,the car was stopped and it was found that the bolt had jumped out of the knuckle on one side and that the tie rod had actually swung out in front1 and not until then had it been discovered that there was any trouble4 ,going back over the route across the viaduct and some distance beyond did not disclose the missing pin1 but the conclusion was reached that it must have come out on the hill leading to the viaduct4 ,yet the wheels remained perfectly straight and the car steered properly1 although there were no very sharp turns1 and the car did not go to smash as it ought to have done in theory4 ,it was the caster effect which saved the car from an accident4 ,the trailing effect described kept the wheels running straight even after the tie rod was out of commission4 ,some time later it was learned that the same thing actually had occurred in one of the big auto races4 ,it so mystified the driver and his mechanician that they decided to experiment4 ,they fixed up a car without a tie rod and started to speed up on the track4 ,they attained quite a high speed without mishap and slowed down and drove to the shed as though the steering gear were regularly equipped4 ,however1 it is not recommended that any automobile owner neglect to have his steering apparatus regularly inspected and to see that the pins are kept tight and that the wheels do not get too much out of alignment4 ,the pin might drop out when going down a steep hill or when running at high speed1 and tires do wear out when the wheels are too much out of alignment2 but the instances cited show that sometimes strict theory and actual practice do not always meet4 ,,chapter ,,xviii ,,the ,,elusive 8,,juice0 ,it takes good 8juice0 and lots of it to run a modern auto2 not the kind that ,uncle ,sam has put a ban upon1 for that ran the auto into the ditch oftener than most anything else2 but something quite as hot and with at least an equal amount of 8kick0 in it--the electric 8juice40 ,probably this is the least understood element in running a car1 if one may judge by the troubles reported4 ,large numbers of autoists have no idea of the functions of the batteries and wires and switches and other parts of the electrical equipment1 and when anything goes wrong they are helpless4 ,in dealing with the electrical equipment of a machine the owner should understand that a complete circuit is necessary in order to have the current do its work2 that is1 starting with the battery as the source1 a wire leads the current from the battery through the switch to the device to be operated1 and then the current must be led back to the battery before it will do any work4 ,it is not sufficient simply to lead the current to the device2 if there is no way back to the battery it will not get even as far as the switch4 ,it won't travel except on a round-trip ticket4 ,in looking for trouble electrically the first thing to inspect is the battery4 ,see that it is charged--has current in it4 ,that can be determined by using a voltmeter 7for dry cells an ammeter7 or a hydrometer4 ,then each successive terminal from the battery should be tested4 ,for instance1 there is a wire to the lighting switch4 ,it is insulated and the first place to test after making sure that the battery is ,o4 ,k4 is at the switch4 ,if there is no current there the wire may be broken or the terminal connections poor2 but whatever the trouble may be1 you have narrowed it down to one small stretch of wire4 ,the next step would be to test where the wire leaves the switch to go to the device to be operated4 ,if the current gets to the switch and does not get out of it1 it is apparent that the trouble is in the switch1 or if it gets to the switch but not through the fuse1 the fuse is at fault4 ,if the current leaves the fuse and does not get to the lamp which the switch controls1 then we know that the trouble is in that wire somewhere2 if it gets to the lamp but the lamp will not light1 we know it is in the lamp2 if we can trace it through the lamp1 but it does not reach the battery1 we know that it is the wire leading back to the battery which is at fault4 ,if the current is carried back through the frame of the car1 as is very often the case1 frequently the ground connections are poor or there is a break in the ground4 ,thus1 we might attach a ground wire to a piece of iron on the dash1 and if this is of wood that piece of iron might be insulated from the remainder of the metal work of the car and the ground connection would not be complete4 ,recently the author came across some electrical troubles which were rather mysterious to the owners of the cars1 but proved to be simple under systematic search4 ,one man worked all of one ,sunday morning1 with the help of several sympathetic owner friends trying to find out where an extra wire on his switch should be connected4 ,he could not get the engine started1 the horn would not blow1 the headlights would not light1 the starting motor would not turn over1 but the dash and tail lights1 which were in series1 did light4 ,a little experiment developed the fact that when the starting pedal was depressed the dash light grew very dim4 ,this1 of course1 indicated that it was not possible to draw a very large amount of current from the battery1 or that the battery was either in a discharged condition1 or that the connections leading from it were poor4 ,it was found that when the wire connected to the battery terminal was moved1 the light would brighten up4 ,this wire was disconnected and cleaned carefully to make sure that the contact was good4 ,when it was assembled again no improvement was shown1 so it was taken apart again and a careful inspection showed that one end of the taper on the inside of the terminal had a slight shoulder1 which prevented the taper end of the wire from being drawn into place snugly4 ,therefore a very light contact was made and sufficient current could not pass to operate the starting motor4 ,this shoulder was removed with a penknife and the engine started without difficulty4 ,several hours' time would have been saved if the owner had started to look for the trouble at the source of the current instead of puzzling over the end of a wire that was not intended to be connected to anything and had nothing to do with the trouble4 ,it was simply an extra wire for use if some new device should be installed4 ,a week later this same man was unable to start his engine and again worked over it several hours before calling for help4 ,this time the lights were all right1 but the engine would not start4 ,to determine the condition of the battery1 he turned on a light and depressed the starter pedal as before1 to see if the light would dim very much under the heavy load2 as it did not1 it was decided that the battery was all right this time4 ,the hood was open and it was observed that when the starter pedal was depressed the fan did not revolve and therefore the engine was not being turned over1 though one could hear the starting motor buzzing plainly4 ,this showed that the overrunning clutch of the starting motor was slipping4 ,as correcting this trouble was a shop job1 they cranked the engine over by hand1 but still it did not start4 ,to make sure that a spark was being delivered1 the wire leading from the ignition coil to the high tension distributor was disconnected and given about #a_/af inch gap4 ,as soon as this was done it was plain to see that a spark was being delivered1 and the engine started immediately also4 ,making a slight gap in the secondary circuit increases the intensity of the spark at the plug and often aids in starting a balky motor4 ,this was an occasion when an outside spark gap was of value4 ,after the engine was warmed up1 it was started several times without difficulty4 ,another fellow who was in trouble had a 8sick0 horn4 ,it sounded like a man who has a cold clogging his vocal organs--that is1 it gave a cracking or rattling sound instead of a musical note1 if the sound of a horn can be called musical4 ,this type of horn has a notched wheel which revolves and strikes against an iron pin riveted into a disc4 ,the disc in this way is made to vibrate1 giving the desired sound4 ,an examination showed that the pin had become loose and rattled4 ,it was explained to the owner what the trouble was and he was told that the pin was of hardened steel and as it was rather difficult to rivet it1 it might loosen up again4 ,he replied that he would not worry about that1 because now that he knew what the trouble was he could easily get it fixed again or replace it if necessary4 ,another fellow had a horn which would not play because it had become grounded and blown the fuse4 ,the ground was removed1 but as no fuse could be obtained1 a single strand of very fine wire from an ignition cable was substituted in place of the fuse4 ,this wire was small enough to burn up before other short circuits could do damage to battery or wiring4 ,still another fellow had his car laid up for a week while he tried to find out what was the matter with it4 ,he had sent magneto and coil to the factory for repairs and when they were returned to him a new type of coil was provided4 ,he wired it up the best he knew how1 but the engine would not start4 ,checking the wires over very carefully1 they seemed to be placed properly1 but a spark could not be obtained4 ,going to the source of the current1 a test of the dry cells with an ammeter showed that they were dead4 ,the fellow had lost a week's use of the car because1 having decided that the trouble was at the magneto or coil1 he did not look anywhere else4 ,he should have started at the battery to trace the current4 ,another case which came under notice was where one of the headlights failed to light4 ,a test showed that the current came to the lamp4 ,to make sure the lamp was not at fault the one from the opposite side was substituted1 but it would not light4 ,the lamp was grounded by an extra length of wire and it worked all right4 ,then it was found that the ground wire1 which was located back of the reflector inside the lamp1 had become loose4 ,most of these troubles point to the fact that a complete circuit is necessary to have an electrical current do its work4 ,therefore1 when trouble occurs1 the source of the current should be examined first and then the current should be traced through its entire path leading from and returning to the battery4 ,it might be a good idea for the owner on winter evenings to get out the wiring diagram of his car and trace the current from the battery through each light1 through the ignition system1 through the horn1 and through every other electrical device used on the car1 including the generator and starting motor4 ,also it might be good practice for the owner to carry his wiring diagram with him when touring1 so that the garage man1 if there be trouble1 may be helped to quickly locate it4 ,but if the winter evenings be spent wisely in studying the electrical equipment1 or even the entire car1 or perhaps invested in a course of instruction at a good school1 the owner might be independent of the garage man for the most part and besides have the satisfaction of knowing that when anything does go wrong he can find it and in most cases fix the trouble4 ,the release from worry ought to be worth the time spent in learning how4 ,,chapter ,,xix ,,putting ,,the ,,kick ,,in ,,the ,,spark ,motors are a good deal like men4 ,very many of them1 when everything is wide open and they are hitting it up at top speed1 have excellent performance1 but spit and sputter and knock a bit when compelled to travel at a lesser pace4 ,this is not moralizing1 but the natural deduction from the complaints which are constantly received4 ,a great many drivers want to know why it is they cannot throttle down the engine2 they say it will pull well at medium or high speed1 but skips at the lower speeds4 ,where magneto ignition is used1 this often may be overcome by adjusting the interrupter points for a little wider gap4 ,that makes the interrupter points open a little earlier and causes the spark to occur when the magneto armature is in a more favorable position1 and the spark therefore has more kick in it4 ,the interrupter points usually are adjusted for normal running speed1 or a little higher than medium speed4 ,increasing the number of revolutions per minute of the armature causes a distortion of the magnetic field1 which tends to follow the armature4 ,this distortion is not so great at lower speeds4 ,to overcome the distortion1 which in effect twists the field around so that the points do not open at the period of greatest current potency1 we must change the time when the points open and cause the spark2 therefore1 to get the best spark it is necessary to have the points open earlier4 ,widening the gap between the points accomplishes this4 ,if the engine misses at high speed1 close the points a little to make the opening come later and when in better armature position1 the action being just the reverse of the foregoing paragraph4 ,widening the gap of the spark plug also will help to overcome skipping at low speeds4 ,at low speeds a full charge of gas is not drawn in and compression is low and temperature low in consequence2 the mixture is not so near the self-ignition point when the spark occurs as it is at higher speeds4 ,therefore a better spark is needed to ignite it4 ,by widening the gap in the plugs the secondary current is held back until it acquires high enough potentiality to jump the greater gap2 so that when it does occur an exceptionally powerful spark is obtained4 ,this may be demonstrated with the use of a vibrating coil4 ,set one of the cylinders on top of compression ready to ignite4 ,turn on the current and while the vibrator will buzz the spark inside the cylinder is not strong enough to ignite the charge4 ,now detach the spark-plug wire and hold it close to the outer plug terminal and turn on the current4 ,the extra gap will increase the strength of the spark in that cylinder and it will ignite the charge1 starting the engine4 ,this has led to the use in some cases1 of outside spark gap attachments4 ,widening the gap and getting a longer spark is not what ignites the charge4 ,it is simply that the greater gap causes the current to build up to a higher pressure1 or voltage1 before it will jump the gap1 so that when it does occur it is of greater intensity4 ,there are several other things about sparking not generally understood by the novice4 ,the general opinion is that the greater insulating surface of a plug there is inside the cylinder the less likelihood there is of short circuiting and consequently the more certain will be the spark occurrence4 ,this is only partly true2 it is true so far as short-circuiting is concerned2 but where the surface is too great and soot or carbon is deposited upon the insulator surface1 the carbon acts as a condenser and absorbs the secondary current4 ,the effect is that it will not build up a sufficiently high voltage to jump the gap4 ,very heavy insulation on the secondary wires absorbs current in the same way4 ,the fact that the spark jumps across the points of the plug when it is in the open air does not necessarily mean that it jumps when the points are under compression in running conditions4 ,a current which will cause a spark to jump a half-inch gap in the open air1 will cause it to jump a gap of only #a_/cb inch under normal running compression4 ,failure to appreciate this often results in a man thinking his ignition is all right when there may be a crack in the insulation so small that it scarcely can be seen with the naked eye when cleaning the plug1 or there may be a porous spot in the porcelain1 either of which would leak current under compression4 ,many manufacturers test the porcelains to see if they leak1 using a spark gap of #c_/d inch under a very high voltage4 ,if there is carbon on the porcelain1 the current very often will travel through this under high compression1 because there is less resistance offered by the carbon than by the spark gap4 ,it short-circuits the plug and there is no ignition4 ,yet1 when this same plug is removed and tested in the open air1 there will be a good spark2 the resistance of the gap in the open air would be less than the resistance offered by a path through the carbon coating4 ,if on testing a plug in this way there seems to be a good spark1 yet the cylinder will not fire1 clean the plug thoroughly and try it out in the cylinder4 ,if it still does not fire1 try a plug which you know is all right and see if it fires4 ,if it does1 you may know that the old plug leaks current somehow and probably needs a new porcelain4 ,it is a common error with motorists when cleaning a spark plug to polish up the points and call it a job4 ,what really is required is to remove all of the carbon1 which is a fair conductor of electricity1 from the porcelain or mica and get these back into the insulator class again4 ,the conditions which allow the adjustment of the interrupter points in magneto ignition to accommodate certain speeds1 do not arise when battery ignition is used4 ,battery interrupter points are usually adjusted for an opening of #a_/fd inch and the gap at the spark-plug points must be greater usually than when magneto ignition is used1 because the spark given by battery systems is naturally of less volume than that given by the magneto4 ,therefore the gap must be greater to intensify the current as before described4 ,the interrupter points sometimes become coated with an insulating glaze1 composed of oxides and dirt hammered by the action of the movable interrupter point1 or hammer4 ,the points will have the appearance of being all right2 there will be no pits or points2 nevertheless there may be enough insulating material there to keep the current from flowing and no spark will occur in consequence4 ,the points may be cleaned by inserting a very thin file between the points when they are open and then allowing them to close on the file1 being held together with no more pressure than the spring exerts1 and working the file back and forth until the glaze is removed4 ,it is necessary to have a flat surface1 so that care in using the file is needed1 and1 as platinum is more valuable than gold at present1 it will be apparent that as little filing as possible should be done4 ,the condenser is another point of possible trouble4 ,the condenser increases the volume of the spark about twenty-five times4 ,we often find that a very weak spark may be caused by a partial breaking down of the condenser1 or occasionally to the fact that it is disconnected at the terminal4 ,condensers are usually hidden away so that the novice cannot locate troubles of this nature1 but an excessive sparking at the interrupter or vibrator points1 with a very weak spark at the plug points1 indicates that the condenser is not working properly4 ,when this sparking occurs have an expert examine the condenser for trouble4 ,,chapter ,,xx ,,what',s ,,the ,,trouble ,,with ,,my ,,battery8 ,with the coming of the shorter days in the year a frequent complaint to garage man and battery or electric-system expert has to do with the battery1 though in nine times out of ten the man with the kick does not know that it is the battery4 ,he will talk about the lights failing every once in a while1 or the horn refusing to honk on demand4 ,but in the majority of cases it is the battery which is at fault4 ,it is more difficult to keep the battery charged at that time of the year than it is in the summer4 ,the reason is that the sun sets earlier1 and just as our electric light and gas bills mount at home1 because we light the lamps earlier1 so it is with the auto4 ,the driver who obeys the law uses more current4 ,one complaint came from an owner who was experiencing trouble with his electric plant4 ,the lights would not work right when he was running4 ,starting out there was light1 but after running a short time there was trouble4 ,the lamps were fitted with dimmers and these would not work at all times2 sometimes one would light and the other fail4 ,he went to the garage repair man and then the dimmers would not work at all4 ,he went to an expert electrician1 who looked over the battery and declared it to be all right1 but on the ground that he was a battery expert and not a wiring expert he could not say why the lights would not shine and the owner had visions of stern policemen and the possibility of having to face a traffic judge1 and he sought advice elsewhere4 ,in the meantime his troubles multiplied4 ,the horn--electric--refused to honk at times and got so that it worked only after the car had been running half an hour or so4 ,this was the case the writer was asked to diagnose4 ,while trying to determine the cause1 questions asked developed that the owner was employed during most of the day and only ran his car nights1 except that he was making long trips on ,saturday and ,sunday1 and ran quite late into the night both days4 ,during the week nights his trips were short1 with numerous stops4 ,this caused frequent use of the self-starter4 ,he found it took longer to start the car1 a natural result of the cooler weather4 ,illustration3 ,,then ,,he ,,went ,,to ,,school ,,to ,,learn ,,some ,,more ,,about ,,his ,,car ,these facts suggested that the battery was being starved2 that is1 that it was not getting enough charge to keep it at its best4 ,there seemed to be no trouble with the wiring and the owner was told he had better have the battery charged and see if his troubles did not end4 ,they did4 ,then he went to school to learn some more about his car4 ,his trouble was that he did most of his running at night and as he carefully observed the speed laws1 consequently the generator did not generate very much extra current and the battery was being recharged at a very low rate and being discharged at a rather high rate4 ,in other words1 he was chopping off both ends--burning both ends of his candle4 ,he was using an excessive amount of current and generating less than usual because of running at night1 starting often1 and running slow to observe the speed laws4 ,up to a certain point1 the amount of current which goes into the battery is increased in proportion to the speed of the car4 ,generators are constructed so that they will deliver a normal charge to the battery for normal running2 they must not be constructed so they will send out excessive current1 or they will overcharge the battery1 and that is harmful4 ,the sun sets much earlier in winter and the cool weather makes it necessary to use the starter more4 ,in warm weather one little kick will start the car off2 in cold weather it takes often from half a minute to a minute4 ,most engines now are equipped with carburetor check and priming devices to facilitate starting when the engine is cold1 but even with these more current is consumed in starting the engine than when it is warm4 ,then1 too1 the storage battery drops off in efficiency as the temperature is lowered and will not deliver so much current on a full charge as at a higher temperature4 ,this comes at a time when there is a greater call on the battery1 and where a battery fails under such circumstances1 it is wise to get an occasional charge to help out the generator4 ,it is becoming the practice to take all current for lights1 ignition1 and other purposes direct from the battery1 using a generator to recharge it4 ,inside of a year at the most the bottom of the battery will become filled with a sediment from the plates4 ,this causes an internal short circuit and the battery will discharge itself inside instead of outside4 ,at least once a year a battery should be taken apart and the sediment be cleaned out4 ,some generators are constructed so that they can be adjusted to deliver more current on demand2 that is1 there is one adjustment for summer and one for winter running4 ,wherever it is possible to do this it should be done4 ,otherwise1 when a battery loses voltage1 it can be taken off the car and be charged4 ,it need not be necessary to leave it for a twenty-hour charging period2 if taken soon enough it can be charged in six to ten hours1 or1 when the car is laid up over night4 ,two nights would be enough at any rate4 ,as a matter of fact1 in self-starter practice1 everything is done to the storage battery that formerly was included in the list of battery 8don'ts40 ,on account of the exceptional demands of self-starters1 batteries have been improved so that they stand this to some extent2 but the improvement has not kept pace with the extra demand put upon the battery4 ,some of the old 8don'ts0 are3 ,you should not charge the battery at a high rate when completely discharged4 ,it should not be charged at a high rate when almost fully charged4 ,it should not be overcharged too often2 occasional overcharge is good1 but not too often4 ,it should not be discharged at a very high rate4 ,most self-starters are of the two-unit type2 they have a generator for recharging the battery and a motor for cranking the engine4 ,in other self-starters the two units are combined2 the same instrument1 when current is fed to it from the battery1 kicks off the motor and when driven by the engine acts as a generator4 ,when self-starters were first introduced they had all sorts of devices to offset the high-current demand and regulators and cutouts to comply with the battery-makers' directions in recharging4 ,these devices were complicated and could not be depended upon1 and consequently were discontinued1 and it was put up to the battery to stand the abnormal conditions4 ,the battery makers have been trying to offset this and to a certain extent have succeeded1 but as it is directly against former practice--for every one of the 8don'ts0 is disregarded in self-starter systems--the makers have not been able to rectify conditions entirely4 ,on account of these conditions the life of a storage battery may be considered to be about one and a half years1 and if it lasts as long as that it is considered to have done its work and to be entitled to be retired4 ,but if your battery seems to fail with the coming of short and cool days1 do not discard it until you have tried having it recharged1 for possibly you have simply been overworking it and not feeding it enough current to keep it in condition4 ,,chapter ,,xxi ,,why ,,gears ,,strip ,some of the most unnecessary and expensive repairs to an automobile are those connected with its transmission4 ,it is not only exasperating1 but unnecessary to be told that the gears of your car are stripped1 or that the teeth are broken so that smooth running is impossible1 if indeed the car can be run at all4 ,it is not in the permanent mesh gears1 where shaft motion is turned into axle motion1 that the trouble comes4 ,properly set and packed the rear axle gears never should make trouble4 ,but it is in the shifting gears of the transmission1 where gears come to mesh at varying rates of speed1 and with the number of revolutions1 load1 and several other things to complicate the situation1 that there is wear and tear--largely tear4 ,if an automobile could run at an unvarying rate of speed1 if there were no hills which require the translation of speed into power1 or if the engine controls alone could give sufficient speed regulation to cover the emergencies constantly arising1 the transmission might be simplified into a mere coupling and reverse4 ,but simplify as you will1 there must be provision for varying speeds and these must be attained while the car is in motion1 and this means the meshing together of finely built gears revolving so fast the teeth cannot be seen4 ,it is no novelty to hear a grinding or clashing within the car when a careless chauffeur starts1 or when he changes from one speed to another4 ,if the owner knew what was going on inside to make all that noise1 a new chauffeur would have a job quickly and there would be laid down starting1 speeding1 slowing down1 and stopping rules as stringent as those of the traffic policeman4 ,the illustration gives the mechanism of a simple transmission gear case4 ,the engine shaft ,j has on the end a gear wheel ,a1 and on the face of the gear are four engaging teeth ,i4 ,the end of the shaft ,j is hollow and in this revolves one end of the transmission shaft ,k1 which is square4 ,on it are two gear wheels of varying size1 ,d and ,e1 one having1 say1 thirty teeth and the other forty4 ,the smaller is yoked to the larger and both slide along the square shaft when moved by a lever4 ,the gear ,d has on its face engaging teeth ,i1 corresponding to those on the engine shaft gear ,a1 and when the two are engaged the transmission shaft revolves at the same speed as the engine shaft1 giving the highest speed of which the car is capable4 ,illustration ,to provide for varying speeds1 another shaft is suspended in the transmission case1 on which are other gears4 ,if gear ,a has twenty teeth1 ,b will have1 say1 forty4 ,this reduces the motion of the gear shaft to one-half that of the engine shaft4 ,farther along the gear shaft1 gear ,f1 with twenty teeth1 engages gear ,e with forty1 further reducing the speed1 so that the transmission shaft revolves one-fourth as fast as the engine shaft1 making the low gear1 or slowest speed4 ,when the car is standing1 of course1 gears ,e and ,f are not engaged1 but the engine is running in neutral--that is1 no gear on the transmission shaft is engaged1 gear ,e being shifted just far enough to miss gear ,f4 ,to start1 it is customary to disconnect the engine and move the lever so that gears ,e and ,f engage4 ,if the speed of the engine shaft be #fjj r4p4m4 that of gear ,f would be #cjj r4p4m41 or #fjjj teeth pass a given point per minute 7#cjj #bj7--something of a buzz-saw motion4 ,into this revolving mass of teeth the forty teeth of gear ,e1 which is at rest1 must penetrate and mesh4 ,it does not require much of a mechanic to see that the meshing must be quite perfect or there would be a clash and grind that does no good to delicate machinery4 ,so it is good practice to allow enough time after the clutch is released for the moving shaft to come to rest4 ,once the car is under way and it is desired to increase the speed1 the lever is shoved forward1 moving the transmission gears forward until gear ,d engages gear ,c4 ,these are the same size and have1 say1 thirty teeth each4 ,but they are not moving at the same speed4 ,gear ,c1 revolving at #cjj r4p4m4 puts #ijjj teeth per minute past the engaging point1 while gear ,d1 moving at #aej r4p4m4 puts just #dejj around per minute4 ,the difference of #dejj represents the possibilities of clashing and breaking or stripping the gear4 ,the wise chauffeur just at the instant of shifting the gear1 would throttle down his engine one-half and bring the number of revolutions of the gear shaft to approximately that of the transmission shaft1 which is kept in motion by the momentum of the car4 ,he also will hesitate in the shift--that is1 stop for an instant in neutral before completing the shift1 to allow for adjustment4 ,it is possible in this way to lessen the difference in teeth speed4 ,if it were possible to make both gears revolve at exactly the same speed the shift would be noiseless and frictionless4 ,this is practically impossible in actual running1 though in theory it can be done4 ,but they may be brought near enough to minimize the clash4 ,in shifting to high speed from medium1 the engine should be throttled more closely and the shift lever should hesitate again1 if one would avoid the thump and jerk commonly felt when the high gear is thrown in4 ,the engaging teeth of gears ,a and ,d will stand a sledge-hammer blow1 but 8constant tapping wears away the hardest rock10 you know1 and the best gears made wear and break4 ,besides there is the jar to engine and car to consider4 ,constant jerking and jumping rack the mechanism1 chassis1 and body and shorten the life of each1 so that economy1 if not comfort1 would seem to dictate care by the driver4 ,in reversing the operation--that is1 going from high to medium and medium to low1 one needs to reverse the directions given for increasing speed4 ,still assuming the engine shaft to be running #fjj r4p4m41 gear ,d would have that speed and would throw #ah1jjj teeth per minute 7#fjj #cj71 while gear ,c1 as before1 would be going at #ijjj teeth per minute 7#cjj #cj74 ,it would therefore be wise to stop in neutral1 engaging the clutch to speed the engine up1 and then release the clutch before engaging the lower gear1 bringing gear ,c to somewhere near the speed of gear ,d4 ,in practice it is approximated by not releasing the clutch fully when changing to lower gear1 thus preventing the clutch from reducing its speed4 ,to accomplish this speedily1 however1 the car speed must be reduced considerably before attempting to make the shift4 ,going on to lowest speed1 gear ,e would now be moving at #cjj r4p4m4 and gear ,f at #cjj r4p4m41 but gear ,e's forty teeth move at #ab1jjj per minute and gear ,f's twenty teeth at #fjjj p4m41 to correct which one should speed up the engine1 or check the car1 in the same manner as just described4 ,in reversing1 to back the car1 the gear operation intensifies the problem4 ,in the illustration1 gear ,g operates gear ,h constantly1 the action being to reverse the motion in the latter1 and when gear ,e engages gear ,h to reverse the motion of the transmission shaft and thus back the car4 ,in addition to the difference in speed and variance of teeth revolutions1 there is added the contrary direction of the two gears which are to engage4 ,to throw back on reverse even at moderate speed menaces the gears and shakes things up uncomfortably4 ,fortunately it is almost invariably necessary to fully stop the car before reversing1 and necessity of caution in backing prompts very low speed throughout the operation4 ,care in operating the gears will add much to the life of the car and to the pleasure of the owner1 and chauffeurs should be instructed in the proper handling of the speed and reverse levers4 ,it racks one's nerves when riding to hear gears clash and grind on a passing car1 and many of the taxis seem to have this trouble4 ,the chauffeurs run the cars on a slap-dash method and disregard of the gears is a part of it all1 but it costs the owner much in upkeep and renewals4 ,,chapter ,,xxii ,,the ,,gear-,,shifting ,,bugaboo ,probably the chief bugaboo of the new owner is gear shifting4 ,this is evident from the fact that the average motor-driving novice will leave the gear in high when the car is slowed down practically to a standstill1 and make the engine labor in order to pick up speed again1 rather than run the risk of making a noisy shift4 ,he has learned from his brief experience that1 in addition to the noise he creates1 he does not mesh the gears anyway1 and has to start off from a standstill4 ,consequently he does not shift gears1 but makes the engine start on high-speed gear4 ,this1 no doubt1 is the cause in a large measure of the great popularity of six-1 eight-1 and twelve-cylinder engines1 since with motors of this type the gear shift is not so necessary4 ,there is a greater range of speed2 a greater flexibility and power may be delivered at lower speed4 ,even the manufacturers of four-cylinder engines have designed their motors for higher speed with greater gear reduction1 which makes it easier for the engine to pick up the load from the very lowest speed1 consequently making the car more popular with the prospective owner4 ,inventors are continually at work trying to devise simple methods of bringing about an adjustment of load to speed without actually sliding the gears into mesh1 and one very popular type of car is arranged so that no sliding of gears is necessary1 and another one or two leave out the gears entirely4 ,however1 the three-speed sliding-gear transmission seems to be the most satisfactory1 considered from all standpoints1 including cost of manufacture1 ease of repair and care required1 consequently the owner should learn at once how to manipulate the gear lever with a minimum of noise1 which is largely a matter of practice4 ,if a man should get into a strange car he could hardly be expected to shift the gears noiselessly under all conditions2 but a man who owns a car and drives it should very quickly learn the peculiarities of that particular car and be able to make the required gear shifts with ease and confidence4 ,illustration3 ,,cylinder ,,of ,,steel1 ,,and ,,the ,,gear ,,wheel ,,which ,,was ,,hammered ,,from ,,it ,shifting gears at the proper time saves racking the entire mechanism of the car4 ,it usually is not very difficult in the average car to shift to a higher gear1 although some car owners manage to stir up considerable noise in doing this4 ,one of the sources of trouble in this respect is a dragging clutch4 ,but most cars now are equipped with a clutch brake1 and by depressing the pedal far enough this brake is brought into play and overcomes the tendency to drag4 ,usually the best results can be obtained in shifting from first to second gear by speeding the car up a very little on first1 shifting out of first and hesitating an instant in neutral and then shifting into second4 ,unless the clutch-brake action is harsh the clutch pedal should be depressed all the way in making this shift4 ,the procedure is the same in shifting from second to third4 ,care should be exercised1 however1 not to speed the car up too much before shifting1 and the throttle should be in closed position and the accelerator pedal released during the time of the shift4 ,changing from high to a lower gear is where the most of the trouble is experienced and this is usually due to the fact that the car is being driven at perhaps twenty-five to thirty miles an hour and the driver for some reason or other thinks he is going to have use for the second speed4 ,immediately he proceeds to shift2 the result is audible for half a mile4 ,usually no difficulty would be experienced in shifting to a lower gear if the car speed is diminished sufficiently4 ,as a general rule1 when shifting to a lower gear the speed of the car should be a little less than when shifting to a higher1 between the same relative gears4 ,in ordinary driving the gear need not be shifted to first speed except when the car is brought to a standstill and on a level road the second-speed gear need not be employed until a speed as low as five to ten miles an hour is reached4 ,the gear should be shifted when the car speed has been decreased to this extent1 and the driver should guard against shifting before slowing down simply because his judgment tells him he is going to have to use a lower gear1 if he desires to make a silent shift4 ,there is a tendency to anticipate the necessity and then to do it immediately and before it is required2 the consequence is noise4 ,when climbing steep hills it is desirable to make the shift at a little higher car speed than on the level1 otherwise the car may lose so much momentum during the operation that the engine will be unable to pick up the load and will stall4 ,this is a rather difficult situation which needs special handling4 ,in a great many cases a silent shift may be made on a hill by leaving the throttle slightly open so that the engine speed will increase when the clutch is released and make a very quick shift with the clutch but partly released4 ,after the driver becomes a little experienced he may shift from third to second without sound at practically any car speed that the engine is able to deliver on second gear4 ,this may even be found of value when climbing steep hills and in anticipating necessary shifts4 ,to make this shift at high speed1 release the clutch1 shift gear lever to neutral notch1 engage clutch1 and accelerate engine speed to a point which experience tells you is the correct engine speed for second gear at that car speed1 disengage clutch and shift into second4 ,this is a matter for experiment and experience4 ,in starting the car grinding of the gears occurs because the owner has not patience to wait the five seconds that may be necessary for the clutch to stop spinning before meshing the gears4 ,another source of annoyance which often leads up to a noisy gear change1 comes from the fact that occasionally it is not possible to bring the first-speed gears into mesh when about to start the car4 ,this is due to the fact that the gear teeth line up so that the gears cannot be slid into mesh4 ,this may be overcome by leaving the lever in neutral1 engaging the clutch so that one gear will spin1 and then disengage the clutch again before shifting the lever4 ,it may need one or two repetitions of this before accomplishing the desired result1 but a little patience will save strain on the gear and a minimum of noise in shifting4 ,a noiseless shift cannot be made from first to reverse or reverse to first unless the car is at a standstill4 ,,chapter ,,xxiii ,,the ,,muffler ,much despised1 detested by many automobile operators and neglected by almost every chauffeur1 and even 8cut out0 altogether when the traffic policeman is not around1 the muffler plainly ought not to be so treated4 ,it is deserving of careful consideration every once in a while1 if the owner cares much for efficiency and economy in operation4 ,the muffler is located under the car1 and being out of sight is usually out of mind4 ,it is therefore often neglected or misused4 ,and yet it ought not to be4 ,the muffler is placed on the end of the exhaust pipe1 and its sole purpose is to silence the exhaust of the engine so that the driver of an automobile while taking pleasure himself does not wholly deprive others of it4 ,let us consider the use of the muffler4 ,the exhaust valve opens while the burned gas is still under a pressure of from twenty-five to thirty pounds per square inch4 ,if this were exhausted directly into the air the resulting noise would stifle conversation in the car1 annoy everybody along the street1 and quickly get the driver into trouble with the police4 ,the muffler prevents all this4 ,it provides a chamber in which these exhaust gases may expand and cool somewhat and at the same time breaks up the pressure by allowing it to leak out slowly through a number of very small holes1 instead of letting it loose in one 8big noise40 ,in the early history of the automobile1 mufflers were not used and everybody for blocks around knew when an auto was coming4 ,as the automobiles increased in number this became a nuisance and was stopped by law4 ,then they sought--indeed had been seeking--a means of stifling the sound4 ,in the early muffler there was trouble because the gas would back up in the cylinder and decrease the power of the motor4 ,it was thought there was no way to decrease the sound without decreasing the power2 therefore the manufacturers devised a valve to 8cut out0 the muffler on the car whenever extra power was desired4 ,sometimes the back pressure was so great as to interfere when driving through heavy roads or up hills4 ,the 8cut-out0 let the gas exhaust directly into the air instead of going through the muffler4 ,at the present time nearly every city has a law prohibiting the use of 8cut-outs40 ,as a matter of fact those well posted on automobile engines understand to-day that the 8cut-out0 is absolutely unnecessary on a modern car if the muffler is kept in proper condition4 ,muffler manufacturers have been able to produce a design with which there is no back pressure at all4 ,for this reason manufacturers discourage the use of the 8cut-out0 on their cars and some of them will no longer install one except as an 8extra40 ,the average driver1 however1 does not know that his muffler needs as careful attention as any other part of the mechanism and so he neglects it4 ,in these days of noiseless cars it requires a great number of very small holes inside the muffler4 ,these become clogged with soot or carbon from the exhaust4 ,the deposit collects very rapidly1 especially when the grade of oil used is poor or too much oil is used4 ,it also results when the carburetor is adjusted to give too rich a mixture4 ,when these small openings become clogged1 the exhaust gases cannot escape readily and naturally the cylinder of the engine is not cleaned at the exhaust stroke4 ,result3 ,it is impossible to bring in a full cylinder of new gas on the next intake stroke4 ,there is not a full charge to explode and this means a loss of power to the engine4 ,cases are known where the throttle was opened wide without any increase in power4 ,trying to find out what the matter was the driver opened the 8cut-out0 and this caused the machine to accelerate very rapidly4 ,in other cases when the engine was cranked1 there would be a few explosions1 a sputter and a stop1 and the reason was that the muffler was so clogged that it was impossible to exhaust the gas from these few explosions1 the cylinder remained full of burned gas1 and1 of course1 could not take in a further supply4 ,these1 of course1 are extreme cases1 but the writer had this experience not long ago3 ,he was riding in a car that could hardly make headway against a strong wind blowing4 ,this meant frequent use of the second-speed gear1 which in itself causes an undue use of gasoline4 ,he found on experimenting that the muffler 8cut-out0 pedal could be used in place of the accelerator pedal2 that is1 when the muffler 8cut-out0 was open the engine had considerable more power and immediately speeded up4 ,in fact1 he kept the 8cut-out0 open most of the way home and had no more trouble in bucking the headwind4 ,the experience led to the discovery that the muffler was almost totally clogged with carbon4 ,of course1 where the engine is stopped or there is a decided decrease in power1 the owner will hunt for the trouble1 and find it1 perhaps1 in the muffler4 ,he might not notice less serious cases where1 while the muffler is somewhat clogged1 it does not decrease the power strikingly2 but even in these less serious cases it will often be found that the power of the motor may be materially increased by having the muffler cleaned4 ,yet it is seldom done1 even when the car is supposed to be overhauled completely4 ,many drivers seem to think the muffler can take care of itself4 ,in looking over the inspection card of a well-known make of car it was found that no provision was made for even looking at the muffler4 ,the service-station inspection orders contain no mention of the muffler4 ,there is still another cause of the clogging of the muffler with carbon1 and that is the practice of putting kerosene in the cylinders to clean them4 ,the kerosene cleans the carbon from the cylinder walls and that is what makes the trouble1 for it is exhausted right into the muffler4 ,some drivers understand this and when using kerosene for this purpose open the muffler 8cut-out02 this allows the discharge of the greater part of the carbon into the air1 but even then some of it finds its way into the muffler and in time makes trouble4 ,a muffler of modern design1 if kept clean1 needs no 8cut-out0 arrangement1 but if it becomes clogged it is necessary to use a 8cut-out0 when the full power of the engine is needed4 ,the consequence may be a trip to the police station and then to the court and then a fine to be paid4 ,it is evident1 therefore1 that if one wishes to get power out of his car on an economical basis and wishes to escape fines1 he should look after his muffler4 ,since instruction books1 and even service-station inspection charts do not say much about the muffler1 and since it is evident that it has an important part in the operation of the car1 where the owner does not find sufficient information concerning it from the instruction books furnished him1 he would better ask the agency to furnish him a special muffler pamphlet1 which will show its construction and care4 ,,chapter ,,xxiv ,,your ,,bearings ,ever stop to count up how many bearings there are about your car8 ,if you haven't1 you are likely to lose your bearings while you hunt for the several hundred bearing points of the modern automobile4 ,a bearing is a support for a moving member1 so designed as to minimize friction and receive wear1 and to permit of fine adjustment4 ,there are many types of bearings1 some in which the metals are selected with the idea of obtaining strength rather than non-friction qualities2 others have strong metal shells lined with a comparatively soft non-friction metal4 ,in these bearings moving members slide over each other4 ,in addition to this we have the so-called anti-friction bearings1 in which balls1 or straight1 taper1 or helical rollers are used1 giving a rolling rather than a sliding contact4 ,on the engine alone there are #ajb bearings4 ,this is figured on the average six-cylinder motor2 some of them have more than double the number4 ,there are1 for instance1 the following3 ,six cylinders1 #f wrist-pin bearings1 #f crank-pin bearings1 #d main1 #c cam shaft1 #ab cam1 #ab push rod1 #ab valve stem1 #b fan1 #b water pump1 #h ignition1 #f spark control1 #f carburetor control1 #f carburetor1 #c oil pump1 #d self-starter1 and #d self-starter linkage bearings2 total1 #ajb4 ,the first named1 cylinder and piston1 not generally termed bearings1 are usually of cast iron1 which gives comparatively long wear and in which the friction is not great if well lubricated4 ,when wear does occur at this point it is necessary to rebore and have larger pistons fitted4 ,the wrist-pin bearings usually are in the form of a bronze shell1 called a bushing1 surrounding the wrist pin2 when wear occurs it is necessary to drive out the bushing and replace with a new one which fits4 ,the crank-pin bearings are usually in halves1 the metal babbitt or bronze1 surrounded by a steel strap or casing4 ,when wear occurs1 the adjustment is made by taking out thin sheets of metal1 called shims1 which allow the halves to be brought closer together4 ,the main crank-shaft bearings are of the same type4 ,the cam-shaft bearings are usually in bushing form1 which must be replaced with new ones when they become worn4 ,the cam-follower bearings may be just flat plates resting directly upon the cam1 or rollers running on a pin in the valve push rod4 ,wear in these parts would usually be compensated for by adjusting screws on the valve push rods4 ,the push-rod guides are sometimes made of cast iron or other metal1 with babbitt or bronze shell in bushing form1 and would require replacement when worn4 ,the oil-pump bearings consist of a plunger working in a small cylinder1 with one end bearing against a cam1 or a pair of gears driven from the cam shaft4 ,these bearings1 being perfectly lubricated1 seldom or never require adjustment4 ,all of the bearings considered so far are cared for by the lubricating system of the engine1 which starts when the engine starts to run1 and as long as oil is kept in the engine they are quite certain to be taken care of1 barring accidental stoppage of the oil lead4 ,the fan usually runs on ball bearings which are lubricated with a squirt can2 being usually of the cup and cone type1 they are adjusted by tightening the cone4 ,the water-pump bearings are lubricated by compression grease cups2 when the bearings become badly worn it is necessary to drive out the bushings and replace them2 generally the shaft also will need replacing4 ,when this shaft becomes worn out of round1 no amount of tightening of the stuffing box will prevent water from leaking out4 ,the valve-stem guides are sometimes bushings1 but more usually are holes bored through the cylinder casting4 ,in the former case1 when wear occurs the bushing may be driven out and a new one1 with new valve1 installed2 in the latter case1 the holes must be reamed true and larger1 and valves with larger stems be inserted4 ,in the ignition system ball bearings usually are employed1 with or without means of adjustment4 ,these are lubricated with an oil can or packed in grease4 ,there is one bearing of the ignition system which is unique in that some manufacturers advise keeping it free of lubricating substance of any kind4 ,this is the rocker arm of the interrupter on certain makes of magnetos4 ,other forms of interrupters are so constructed that lubrication is advisable4 ,the carburetor air-valve bearing operates better if not lubricated1 but does wear and need replacing at times4 ,the throttle bearings may be lubricated and would certainly wear longer if this were done4 ,when they do wear air is admitted which is noticeable at low engine speed1 causing skipping and irregular running4 ,then the holes in the casting must be enlarged and larger shaft inserted4 ,the throttle and spark-control linkage have a number of bearings1 which may be of the steel ball and socket type1 or a wire bent to fit in an eye4 ,these pins should be frequently lubricated with a squirt can4 ,usually they are not adjustable1 so that parts must be replaced when they become badly worn4 ,the self-starter motor and generator are usually equipped with ball bearings and are lubricated with a squirt can4 ,both the motor and generator have a copper commutator on which carbon brushes bear4 ,these are not bearings1 strictly speaking1 but they do require a very slight trace of oil if the brushes have not been soaked in oil4 ,the commutator becomes worn occasionally and must be smoothed up with fine sand paper1 or1 if badly worn1 must be removed and trued in a lathe4 ,the other principal bearings throughout the car are usually of ball or roller type1 which may or may not be adjustable4 ,usually the directions for the care and replacement are given in the manufacturer's instruction book4 ,in the steering gear there is a plain bronze bearing or bushing in which the shaft is set out of center1 so that when wear occurs by twisting the bushing1 the sector of the steering gear may be thrown deeper into mesh with the worm and take up the play4 ,in the transmission gear1 in which all other bearings are of the ball or roller type1 there will be found often a plain bearing on the forward end of the square or fluted shaft called the pilot-shaft bearing4 ,this is one weak point in many otherwise satisfactory transmissions4 ,when this bearing wears1 the operation becomes noisy and the gears are difficult to shift4 ,the transmission must be disassembled1 the bushing withdrawn and a new one pressed in4 ,the steering-gear linkage bearings are usually of the ball and socket type1 self-adjusting by means of springs4 ,steering knuckle bearings are usually bushings which may be driven out and replaced when wear occurs4 ,it usually is necessary to replace the pins at the same time4 ,the universal joints of the propeller shaft become very noisy when the bearings are worn4 ,in modern construction these bearings are in the form of bushings which may be replaced at small expense4 ,the brake linkage has many bearings1 which are clevis and pin4 ,these are non-adjustable1 and unfortunately are not often lubricated4 ,when wear occurs the holes may be drilled larger and larger pins be inserted1 or the parts may be replaced entirely4 ,of course there are scores of other bearings in other parts of the chassis1 that with ordinary care last the life of the car4 ,the lubrication and adjustment are usually given in detail in the manufacturer's book of instructions and need no special caution other than to advise following what is there printed4 ,,chapter ,,xxv ,,driving ,,the ,,car ,it takes more than a knowledge of certain small levers and pedals and a deftness in manipulating clutch and brakes and gear shifts and steering wheel1 to make an automobile driver4 ,because of this fact the ,automobile ,school of the ,west ,side ,young ,men's ,christian ,association1 in ,new ,york ,city1 has formulated a set of instructions to its students for the road lessons1 which are about the most complete1 yet concise1 so far published4 ,they are copyrighted and published by permission4 ,it may emphasize the foregoing chapter to first quote the introductory paragraph which otherwise would have been omitted4 ,the following applies particularly to the cars used in the school4 ,slight variations may be found on other machines1 so it is well to get an instruction book from the manufacturers of the car you expect to operate and follow their instructions closely4 ,before ,leaving the ,garage--,see that there is sufficient gasoline and oil in the tanks to carry you the distance you wish to go4 ,examine the radiator or tank to see that it is full of water4 ,have sufficient air in the tires4 ,all grease cups should be filled and turned down properly4 ,if batteries only are used1 two should be carried1 and one of them fully charged4 ,if you are carrying only one battery1 be sure that it is sufficiently charged to make the desired run4 ,have on the car at least one extra shoe and three extra tubes1 with the ordinary equipment of tire pump1 jack1 oil gun1 tire tools1 tire patches and cement1 and the regular kit of other tools4 ,a set of non-skid chains will be found very useful on wet days2 in fact it is not safe to run without them on wet asphalt4 ,they should not be used however any more than is necessary1 as they wear the tires excessively4 ,a couple of extra spark plugs should be carried to save the trouble of cleaning a short circuited one on the road4 ,starting ,crank--,in a gasoline automobile1 it is found that the motor must draw a supply of gas into the cylinder and compress it before this charge can be ignited to expand and give power4 ,it is therefore necessary to have some means of turning the engine over to accomplish this4 ,the starting crank placed usually on the front of the machine1 just in front of the radiator and between the front spring horns1 is for this purpose4 ,it is operated1 as a rule1 with the right hand1 and is rotated clockwise 7the direction the hands of a clock travel74 ,when there is a self-starter provided1 the starting crank is carried in the tool box1 and is used only when the starter will not operate4 ,starting ,pedal--,the starting pedal or button may generally be found somewhere on the floor board4 ,pressing on it connects an electric motor to the crank shaft of the engine and closes a switch that allows current from the storage battery to flow to the motor and crank the engine4 ,this takes the place of the hand-starting crank4 ,clutch ,pedal--,it is quite often desirable to run the engine without moving the car1 and it will also be found necessary at times to bring into mesh different gears so that more power or speed may be obtained4 ,a clutch is1 therefore1 placed between the engine and the rear wheels4 ,it is controlled by means of a pedal placed just back of the dash4 ,the clutch is released by pressing on this pedal with the left foot1 and when released the engine will continue to run1 but will not deliver power to the driving wheels4 ,when the pressure of the left foot is released from the pedal1 the clutch will become engaged automatically by means of a stiff spring and the car will move forward or backward1 according to which gears are in mesh4 ,if the gears are in the neutral position1 however1 power will not be applied to the car when the clutch is engaged4 ,the clutch must be released every time the gear-shifting lever is moved and whenever the brake is applied4 ,remember1 it is depressing or pushing this pedal that overcomes the tension of the spring and releases the clutch1 and when no pressure is applied to the pedal1 the clutch is engaged4 ,the ,running-,brake ,pedal--,the running brake is used for bringing the car to a standstill4 ,it is operated by means of a pedal placed just back of the dash and to the right of the clutch pedal4 ,to apply the brake1 first release the clutch by pushing on the clutch pedal1 then push down or forward on the brake pedal with the right foot gently but firmly until the car is stopped4 ,after removing the foot from the brake pedal the brake will be released automatically by means of a spring4 ,use the brake gently to save discomfort to the passengers1 wear on tires and the machine in general4 ,do not run close to the point where the stop is to be made and then jam the brake on hard1 but begin to apply it early and bring the car to a standstill gradually4 ,the ,emergency-,brake ,lever--,the emergency brakes are used chiefly after the car has been stopped and the operator wishes to leave it4 ,they are applied by means of a lever operated by the right hand4 ,this lever is usually placed just forward and to the right of the driver's seat4 ,it is fitted with a spring latch and when applied will lock on1 and so is very convenient in stopping on a hill or when the car is left standing at the curb4 ,the brake is applied by pulling back the lever4 ,this brake can be used alone or in connection with the running brake for quick stops when necessary1 but it should not be used for ordinary stopping as it is usually not designed for such work4 ,gear-,shifting ,lever--,this lever is usually placed forward and to the right of the operator's seat1 and to the left of the emergency-brake lever4 ,it is operated with the right hand4 ,by shifting this lever which engages different sets of gears1 the machine may be made to go forward at different speeds while the engine turns at a practically uniform speed4 ,it also controls the reverse gear4 ,when the car is standing1 the lever should be left in neutral position4 ,when in this position1 even if the clutch is engaged1 the machine will not move4 ,to start the car1 release emergency brake1 release the clutch with left foot1 grasp the gear-shifting lever with the right hand and shift from the neutral position to the first speed notch1 accelerate slightly1 then allow the clutch to engage slowly and the car will start4 ,after the car has started1 release the clutch again and shift the gear lever to the second speed notch and engage the clutch quickly but gently4 ,repeat this operation for third and fourth speeds4 ,always release clutch when shifting this lever4 ,whenever the car is brought to a standstill1 put the lever in the neutral position before applying emergency brake4 ,accelerator ,pedal--,this pedal operates the throttle on the carburetor and regulates the amount of gas going to the engine and thus controls the power which the motor develops4 ,it is sometimes placed between the clutch and brake pedals1 but usually to the right of the brake pedal and is operated by the right foot4 ,more gas is permitted to enter the cylinders and therefore more power is obtained by pressing on it1 and when released the throttle will be returned to its minimum position by means of a spring4 ,push on the pedal very slowly1 for a slight movement greatly increases the power developed by the motor and a too sudden application of power will strain the whole machine4 ,it should be pushed slightly when the clutch is engaged to increase the power of the motor1 and should be released when the clutch is disengaged1 so that the engine will not race4 ,the ,throttle ,lever--,this lever controls the throttle on the carburetor the same as the accelerator pedal but it has a spring latch1 and when it is desirable to run the machine for some distance at a nearly constant speed1 this lever may be used as it will stay where placed1 thus relieving the right foot which would become tired of holding the accelerator pedal in one position for a long time4 ,it is usually placed on the steering post above the steering wheel and is operated with the right hand4 ,do not advance throttle lever too quickly4 ,the ,spark-,control ,lever--,it takes some time after the spark occurs for the gas to get thoroughly ignited and give power4 ,it is therefore desirable to have the spark occur earlier when the engine is running fast1 so that the gas may be thoroughly ignited at the beginning and deliver power for full length of the working stroke4 ,this means that the spark when advanced actually occurs when the piston is still traveling up on the compression stroke and so gets the gas in the cylinder at its maximum pressure when the crank passes top dead center4 ,when the motor is cranked in starting it is turned so slowly that to avoid a kick back the spark must be retarded so that it occurs after the crank has passed top dead center4 ,the spark-control lever is connected with the spark-timing device1 and so controls the time at which the spark occurs in the cylinder4 ,it is usually placed on the steering column above the steering wheel1 and is operated with the right hand4 ,on some cars it is moved forward and on others backward to advance the spark4 ,when the engine is cranked in starting1 the spark should be fully retarded4 ,after the motor has started it can usually be advanced about two-thirds1 but there is no set rule for this4 ,in general1 advance as the motor 7not the car7 gains speed and retard as it slackens speed4 ,keep the spark advanced as far as possible at all times but retard it if the engine labors or knocks4 ,ignition ,switch--,usually placed on the dash4 ,it is for the purpose of closing and opening the electric circuit and thus stopping the motor or allowing it to be started4 ,it is generally provided with a removable plug or a key so that the car may be safely left at the curb4 ,be sure that switch is in 8,off0 position when the motor is stopped4 ,steering ,wheel--,the steering wheel is usually placed on the left-hand side of the car directly in front of the operator's seat4 ,by its means the direction of the car is controlled4 ,when moving forward1 turning the wheel counter clockwise will cause the car to go to the left and turning it clockwise will cause the car to go to the right4 ,it should be operated with the left hand only unless steering is very hard1 when both hands may be used4 ,grasp the wheel firmly with one or both hands but not with a strong1 nervous grip1 as this becomes very tiresome4 ,if the hand is kept always in one position on the wheel when only slight turns are desired1 there will be no difficulty in knowing by its position when the front wheels are pointing straight ahead4 ,when turning corners the position of the hand on the wheel may be changed and both hands should be used4 ,do not attempt to turn the steering wheel when the car is not moving as this throws a very great and entirely needless strain on the whole steering mechanism4 ,priming ,device or 8,choke0--,when the engine is cranked in starting1 it is turned so slowly that the air going in through the carburetor has not sufficient velocity to draw the required amount of gasoline from the spray nozzle4 ,the mixture that goes into the cylinder is therefore weak and cannot be exploded easily4 ,to enrich the mixture1 a valve is placed in the carburetor air passage1 to choke off the air and feed more gasoline to the motor4 ,this valve is operated by a lever or button usually found on the dash or attached to the steering column under the steering wheel4 ,it is often combined with a device for making the mixture richer or leaner to take care of different weather conditions4 ,some engines will start nearly every time without priming the carburetor2 others must be primed every time the engine is started4 ,do not prime to excess2 as soon as the engine starts1 return the lever or button to the running position4 ,the ,gasoline ,tank--,the gasoline tank carries the fuel that is to be fed to the engine4 ,it will sometimes be found under the front seats1 and may be filled by removing the cushion4 ,in this system the gasoline flows by gravity to the carburetor and a small hole about the size of a pin will be found in the filler cap to allow the air to enter as the gasoline leaves4 ,this hole should be kept clean1 because if the air cannot enter the gasoline will stop flowing to the carburetor and the engine will stop running4 ,some cars carry the gasoline tank on the rear of the chassis under the body and air pressure is kept on the gasoline to force it to the carburetor4 ,this pressure is obtained by a hand pump placed on the dash1 and is kept constant automatically4 ,this system differs from all others in that there should be no hole in the filler cap of the tank and the gasket on the cap should be kept in good condition to prevent air leakage4 ,a gauge will be found on the dash and by this means the pressure on the tank can be determined4 ,other cars with the tank under the rear end of the chassis have a system of drawing the gasoline by means of a vacuum1 to a small tank located by the carburetor under the hood1 from which it flows into the carburetor by gravity4 ,still other cars have a gasoline tank in the cowl of the dash from which the gasoline flows to the carburetor by gravity4 ,the ,lubricator--,the lubricating system is generally built into the crank case of the engine4 ,the oil is supplied through a pipe or other opening found on the engine and a gauge or pet cock is provided to indicate the amount of oil in the motor4 ,the system should be kept filled with a light to medium high-grade gas-engine oil4 ,the lubricating system usually oils all internal parts of the engine only1 the transmission1 steering and differential gears being lubricated by heavy oil or grease placed in their respective housings1 and all other parts of the car are taken care of by oil or grease cups4 ,any oil put into the engine should be carefully strained to remove dirt or grit4 ,the ,water ,tank--,the water tank or radiator is placed on the front of the car and should be kept filled with clear water4 ,any sediment that is allowed to enter the radiator will clog it and the engine will then overheat4 ,during the winter it is well to fill the radiator with some anti-freezing solution4 ,alcohol is good for this purpose1 mixed with water in the following proportions as desired4 #b pints wood alcohol to #a gallon water freezes at #j ,fahr4 #b-a_/b pints wood alcohol to #a gallon water freezes at #aj below #c pints wood alcohol to #a gallon water freezes at #bj below #d pints wood alcohol to #a gallon water freezes at #ch below ,if steam is discharged from the radiator1 examine the fan directly back of it and the water pump1 and see that there is no clog in the pipes leading to and from it4 ,tires--,keep the tires free from oil and grease as they rot the rubber4 ,drive very carefully in wet weather because rubber cuts very easily when wet4 ,drive slowly around corners and start and stop without jerks2 also be very careful not to rub the tires against the curb4 ,have all small cuts vulcanized so that moisture cannot get in and rot the fabric4 ,do not run on a flat tire unless it has been damaged beyond repair4 ,run slowly on the rim or wrap rope around it if no other tire is to be had4 ,it is very important to keep the tires fully inflated at all times4 ,if tires do not give satisfactory wear report it to the manufacturer at once4 ,when the car is to be laid up for some time1 place jacks under it to keep the weight off the tires4 ,to ,start the ,motor--,place the gear-shifting lever in the neutral position1 put the emergency brake on1 retard the spark fully or if well acquainted with the motor1 to a point where the spark will surely occur after the crank has passed top center4 ,open throttle about one-third4 7,after getting acquainted with the machine you will find a position for the throttle where the motor starts best47 ,put the switch in 8,on0 position4 ,if the motor habitually starts hard1 prime the carburetor with choking or enriching lever4 ,if car is equipped with electric self-starter1 press hard on starting button or pedal4 ,when the engine starts1 remove foot from pedal immediately1 then close throttle and advance spark lever two-thirds4 ,in cranking the motor by hand1 grasp some part of the car with the left hand to steady yourself1 place the feet wide apart1 and stand close to the front of the machine4 ,grasp the starting crank with the right hand having it at its lowest position1 or a little to the right of this point4 ,push the crank in as far as it will go and turn slowly clockwise until it engages the crank shaft4 ,it will usually catch when about at its lowest position4 ,when engaged1 brace yourself firmly and pull up quickly on crank1 turning it about one-half revolution4 ,if after repeating this operation several times the engine does not start1 it may be found necessary to spin the motor4 ,this means cranking for a full revolution or more4 ,in spinning the motor1 care should be taken to always start with an up pull so as to gain momentum for the down thrust and so reduce the danger of a kick back to a minimum4 ,after the engine starts1 advance the spark about two-thirds and close the throttle4 ,if the engine has been started on the battery and a magneto is used1 switch immediately from the battery to magneto4 ,do not allow the motor to race4 ,when running idle1 it should turn over at its slowest speed4 ,to ,start the ,car--,take your place in the driver's seat1 place left foot on clutch pedal1 and press hard to release the clutch4 ,keep it disengaged while with the right hand the emergency brake is released and gear lever is shifted from neutral to the first speed notch4 ,then with the right foot press the accelerator pedal gently until the motor speed is increased a little and at the same time with the left foot allow the clutch pedal to come back1 until the clutch starts to engage and the car begins to move4 ,from this point decrease the pressure on the clutch pedal very gradually until the clutch is fully engaged1 at the same time listening to the engine to see that it doesn't slow down sufficiently to stall4 ,if it shows signs of stalling1 press accelerator pedal a little more to increase its speed1 at the same time keeping a slightly greater pressure on the clutch pedal4 ,stalling the motor is the result of feeding too little gas with the accelerator1 or of not keeping pressure on the clutch pedal during the time the clutch is engaging4 ,the jerking of the car comes from feeding too much gas and engaging the clutch too suddenly4 ,both of these faults may be overcome by listening to the speed of the engine and keeping it right through the proper use of the accelerator pedal1 and by releasing the pressure of the foot from the clutch pedal very gradually from the time it starts to engage until it is fully engaged4 ,it is impossible to become a good driver until the ear learns to judge the speed of the motor by its sound and the left foot learns to engage the clutch gradually4 ,when the clutch has become fully engaged1 press accelerator pedal slightly to speed up the machine4 ,as soon as it has attained fair momentum1 release the clutch and at the same time let up on the accelerator pedal4 ,change gear lever immediately from first speed notch to second speed notch and let in the clutch quickly until you feel it take hold and then gradually1 at the same time pressing slightly on the accelerator pedal4 ,when the clutch pedal is pushed out1 the accelerator pedal should be released2 when the clutch is let in1 the accelerator pedal should be pressed slightly4 ,change from second to third and from third to fourth if four speeds are employed1 always releasing clutch when gear is shifted1 and always accelerating slightly while the clutch is being engaged4 ,do not forget that the clutch is released when the clutch pedal is pushed out1 and that it is engaged when the pedal is allowed to come back4 ,run on the high-speed gear as much as possible1 and when it is necessary to drive more slowly release the clutch and apply the brake gently until the car is brought to the desired speed4 ,then if the speed of the machine is low enough to warrant it1 release the brake and1 with the clutch still disengaged1 change from the high to the next lower speed notch and let in the clutch4 ,if the car has lost much momentum it may be necessary to change to the lowest gear before letting in the clutch1 otherwise the engine may be stalled4 ,do not drive too close to other vehicles or objects before releasing the clutch and applying the brakes as the brakes may not hold as well as you think and you may not be able to operate them correctly when in close quarters4 ,if while the machine is standing it is found impossible to move the gear lever from neutral to first or reverse1 leave the lever in neutral1 allow the clutch to engage slightly1 then release it quickly and shift lever to desired notch4 ,to ,stop the ,car--,select a lamp-post1 tree1 or other object along the curb1 and when still some distance from it1 disengage the clutch and apply the brake gently and get the car under control so that you can1 if you wish1 stop ten feet before the object is reached4 ,then1 releasing the brake pressure slightly1 allow the car to drift to the object1 stopping with the rear door directly opposite the object and the car close enough to the curb to allow passengers to alight on the sidewalk4 ,shift gears to neutral1 apply emergency brake1 and allow clutch to engage4 ,be careful that the tires do not scrape along the curb as this is very damaging4 ,the brake should be applied so that the car is not brought up with a jerk4 ,this can be accomplished easily with a little practice1 as can also starting of the car4 ,remember that you are driving for the comfort of the passengers1 and they can feel the jerks and jar much more than you4 ,to ,reverse the ,car--,bring it to a standstill first1 then with the clutch released place the gear lever in the reverse notch4 ,allow the clutch to engage gently with the left hand only on the steering wheel1 look backward and gauge the direction by the rear end of the car4 ,do not attempt to steer by watching the front wheels2 always look to the rear when going backward1 to make sure the way is clear4 ,turning in ,narrow ,streets--,with the car moving slowly1 first look back to see that there is no other vehicle coming and then turn the wheels sharply to the left as far as possible4 ,when within five feet more or less1 depending upon the speed of the car1 of the left-hand curb1 release the clutch and apply the brake gently1 at the same time turning the steering wheel quickly to the right4 ,stop turning the wheel when the car is brought to a standstill4 ,with the clutch still released and the brake on1 shift to the reverse gear4 ,then release the brake2 accelerate slightly1 let the clutch in carefully1 and when the car starts to move continue turning the wheel to the right or clockwise4 ,this will point the car in the opposite direction4 ,when going backward look toward the back of the car and also up and down the street to see that no other vehicle is approaching4 ,after the car has traveled back a sufficient distance1 release the clutch1 take foot off of accelerator pedal and apply brake1 at the same time turning steering wheel to the left until the car stops4 ,then with the clutch still released and the brake still on1 shift from reverse gear to first speed gear4 ,take right foot from brake pedal and accelerate slightly1 allowing clutch to engage gradually1 and as soon as the car starts to move1 continue turning steering wheel to the left until the car goes straight ahead4 ,do not turn the steering wheel while the car is standing4 ,start to turn when the car begins to move4 ,do not allow tires to strike curb4 ,turning ,corners--,before turning a corner hold out the hand so that any driver behind you may see it1 and also look back to make sure that he does see it4 ,if another vehicle is close behind you or if there is one in front coming toward you1 slow up your car and wait until it has passed before turning4 ,when turning a corner to the right keep as close to the curb as possible so that the car will be on the right-hand side when you get into the side street4 ,when turning to the left go past the center of the street into which you are traveling and then turn sharply1 so that you will be on the right-hand side of the road4 ,do not cut close to the left curb4 ,always go around a corner at a low enough speed to make the use of the second speed gear necessary1 and reduce speed so that the gear shifting must be done before starting to turn1 not after1 as this gives better control of the car4 ,turning corners at a high rate of speed puts a great strain on the tires and causes them to wear excessively4 ,it is also uncomfortable for the passengers4 ,use both hands on the steering wheel1 and if the car is found to be going too fast check it by releasing the clutch and applying the brake slightly4 ,do not shift gears before slowing the car4 ,the idea is to slow the car sufficiently to make shifting to a lower gear necessary4 ,climbing ,hills--,when approaching a hill accelerate and advance the spark1 as speeding up the motor makes it more powerful and adding momentum to the car will often carry it over hills that would need an intermediate speed gear if an attempt is made to climb them slowly4 ,as the hill is reached1 open the throttle fully4 ,if the engine begins to feel the grade and labors or knocks1 retard the spark until the knocking or laboring ceases4 ,if the hill is a very steep one1 as soon as the engine begins to lose speed1 release the clutch1 remove pressure from accelerator and1 without applying the brake1 shift to a lower speed gear4 ,let clutch in quickly and at the same time open accelerator wide4 ,it will then probably be found that the spark can be advanced without causing the engine to knock4 ,on some hills it may be found necessary to shift to the first speed gear1 but this should not be done unless the engine will not pull the car on a higher gear4 ,when gears are shifted on a hill the change must be made quickly and the clutch let in immediately1 as slow work will allow the car to lose momentum1 and then when the clutch is engaged the engine will stall4 ,if the engine stalls1 put on the emergency brake and put gear lever in neutral notch4 ,it will be well to place a stone or block back of the rear wheels before cranking the motor as the vibration of the engine may jar the emergency lever loose4 ,in starting again1 release the clutch1 put lever in first speed gear1 accelerate strongly1 release the emergency brake and at the same time let the clutch engage4 ,this must be done quickly1 otherwise the car will start to back down the hill4 ,with some cars it may be found easier when starting from a standstill on a steep hill1 to apply the foot brake1 release the emergency brake1 engage the clutch while the foot brake is released gradually1 at the same time feeding gas to the engine with the hand throttle4 ,do not attempt to climb steep hills until you have thoroughly mastered shifting gears on the level4 ,descending ,hills--,when descending slight grades throw off the ignition switch and leave the gear lever in high speed with the clutch engaged4 ,this will cause the engine to act as a slight brake and if necessary the running brake may be operated in connection with it4 ,there is no harm in applying the brake under these conditions with the clutch engaged1 because switching off the ignition causes the engine to stop giving power4 ,when a very steep grade is encountered1 before attempting to descend it1 stop the car and shift to second or first speed gear4 ,the lower the gear used the greater will be the braking power1 and when first speed is used it is almost impossible for the car to get beyond control4 ,the ignition may be switched off or on as the occasion requires4 ,switching it off gives greater braking power4 ,the clutch must be left engaged1 and the brakes may be used to help4 ,it is well to use first one brake and then the other in descending long grades1 as too long an application of one will cause it to heat and burn the friction material4 ,do not wait until you are half way down the hill before finding out that it is too steep for the brakes to hold the car4 ,make up your mind before starting to descend and shift to first gear if necessary4 ,do not allow the brakes to get in such condition that they will not hold to the best of their ability4 ,never descend the hill at a high rate of speed no matter how safe it looks4 ,brakes do not hold as well when the car is going fast as they do when it is moving slowly1 nor will they stop a car as quickly going down a grade as they will going up4 ,driving in ,congested ,streets--,procure a copy of the rules of the road of the city in which you are driving and obey them4 ,keep to the right-hand curb unless it is lined with standing vehicles1 in which case keep close to them4 ,in overtaking another vehicle1 pass it on its left4 ,in passing a vehicle coming in the opposite direction go to the right of it4 ,when stopping1 the wheels must be within six inches of the curb4 ,before stopping1 hold your hand out at the side of the car to warn the man who may be behind you4 ,do not at any time slow down or stop without holding out your hand and looking back to make sure that it is seen4 ,pedestrians have the right of way at crossings1 but you may warn them of your approach by blowing the horn4 ,however1 do not make a nuisance of yourself by using it more than necessary4 ,when traveling in a side street1 upon coming to a main thoroughfare slow up so that you can stop quickly1 as vehicles on these streets have the right of way4 ,when on a main thoroughfare it is not necessary to slow up at every cross street4 ,watch the traffic policeman1 and when one holds up his hand1 stop2 first holding out your hand to warn anyone behind you4 ,remain standing until the policeman motions you to proceed4 ,in some places the policemen use whistles instead of motions1 and the signals used by them should be learned4 ,whenever it is necessary to reduce the speed of the car considerably1 release the clutch and apply the brake4 ,when the car is going slow enough1 shift to a lower speed gear to prevent stalling the motor when the clutch is let in4 ,when it is found necessary to keep behind a slow moving vehicle1 shift to a speed so low that it will not be necessary to slip the clutch4 ,if it is desirable to go slower than first speed gear1 however1 the clutch may be slipped by keeping a slight pressure on that clutch pedal4 ,a great variation in speed may be obtained when in any gear by the proper manipulation of the spark and throttle levers4 ,do not attempt to keep pace with other vehicles until you are an experienced driver4 ,when in close quarters1 perform every operation slowly as a move made slowly but surely will probably take less time than a move made incorrectly4 ,there is no occasion for getting excited1 as it is safe to assume that every other vehicle is under perfect control4 ,learn to shift gears without looking at the lever1 because you will need your eyes to watch the road4 ,sit straight in the seat3 do not get hunched over the steering wheel as this indicates a novice4 ,always drive into the garage on the first speed gear4 ,washing the ,car--,the car should be washed immediately upon coming into the garage1 before the mud has had time to dry4 ,do not scour off the mud as this scratches the varnish4 ,use the hose with a slow stream until the mud is well loosened1 and then finish by soaking 7not rubbing7 off with a sponge well wet with water4 ,where a hose is not procurable the mud may be loosened with a wet sponge and then washed off entirely by throwing pails of water on it4 ,be careful that water does not go through the radiator or any other opening and get on the engine1 as this is likely to short circuit the magneto or spark plugs and prevent the motor from running4 ,if there is grease on the car1 soap must be used to remove it4 ,castile soap is the best for this purpose4 ,however1 do not apply the soap itself to the car1 but make suds in lukewarm water4 ,after all mud and grease has been removed1 wipe dry with a chamois skin4 ,wash and dry the body before the running gear1 and be careful that no grease is collected on chamois from wheel bearings and steering-arm joints4 ,cautions--,don't twist the steering wheel when the car is standing4 ,corners should be turned at slow speed to save wear on tires4 ,the brakes should not be applied with too much force except in an emergency1 as it is hard on tires and the machine in general4 ,don't let the motor labor or knock when ascending hills4 ,when going down long hills use one set of brakes and then the other4 ,shift to first speed gear before descending steep hills4 ,change from first speed to reverse and from reverse to first only when the car is standing4 ,be very careful of skidding on wet pavements4 ,put non-skid chains on for wet or icy roads4 ,always start and stop the car without a jerk4 ,this constitutes good driving4 ,don't forget to see that the license pad is attached before leaving the garage4 ,inspect oil1 gasoline1 and water tanks before making a trip and see that the necessary tools and extra tires are in the car4 ,don't let the car stand with the motor stopped in the winter time1 unless the radiator is filled with anti-freezing solution4 ,look the car over thoroughly after each run4 ,the records of the examinations held at the school show that there are a few points of driving which a large majority of the students do not entirely master4 ,this is not due to lack of instruction in the subjects1 but is rather the result of poor memory or insufficient practice4 ,failure to perform these operations perfectly does not necessarily mean that the student is not a safe driver1 but it does show that he needs more practice before being rated as an expert4 ,if you want to be a little better than the average driver1 keep in mind the following points1 go back and read them over again in this booklet1 think about them when driving the car and try your best to master them4 ,when about to turn a corner1 or turn in a street1 or in fact whenever swerving from a straight line1 look back to see if it is safe to make the turn1 and hold out your hand to signal what you intend to do4 ,make sure that the spark is retarded1 the gear lever is in neutral1 switch on1 and other levers in their proper positions before cranking the engine4 ,when the car has been slowed down to a very low speed for any reason1 shift to a lower gear2 don't try to pick up speed on high gear4 ,don't shift to a lower gear until the car speed has been reduced sufficiently4 ,in ,new ,york ,city1 traffic traveling north and south has the right of way1 therefore when crossing an avenue go slowly and make sure you will not cut off vehicles on the avenue4 ,when starting the car1 allow the clutch pedal to come back until the clutch begins to engage1 then keep enough pressure on the pedal to allow it to become fully engaged very gradually4 ,letting the clutch engage all at once makes the car jump or the engine stall1 and observers smile knowingly4 ,in this connection you should listen to the engine and operate the clutch and accelerator so that the engine is not raced or stalled4 ,,chapter ,,xxvi ,,where ,,extra ,,caution ,,is ,,necessary ,it would seem unnecessary to give caution to the motorist where there is an element of safety involved2 it ought to be understood that everyone entrusted with the wheel of a motor car would be interested in his personal safety and in the safety of those in his keeping1 and that he would take all ordinary and even extraordinary precautions to keep skin unscratched and bones unbroken and existence preserved4 ,but it is a fact that for a large proportion of motorists there is no such word as 8,danger10 and no such word as 8,care40 ,why is it8 ,for some reason there is abroad the spirit of 8take a chance10 and it has entirely superseded the cautious foresight which was once the ,american nature4 ,perhaps it is the changed conditions of our land which is responsible for this4 ,in pioneer days caution was necessary1 for one did not know behind what tree or rock lurked death in the form of a savage1 and there were wild animals to avoid in the forests1 and even along traveled highways2 so that to look ahead1 to watch for signs of danger1 and to approach points of peril with every sense alert1 was second nature4 ,boys who were brought up to tramp the woods or prairies were alert also1 because of hiding snakes and prowling wolves1 and because of the need for keeping track of distances and locations to prevent being lost4 ,we are only a generation or two from these things even at the crowded centers of population2 but the last two generations which have grown up in the city1 and millions who have come from other lands in the same period have not this inbred caution4 ,men who are in peril daily from one cause and another incident to city life1 and 8nothing happens10 cannot be expected to get excited about possibilities1 which in time become so familiar as to breed contempt4 ,the man who is in constant fear lest something fall from a tall building upon him1 or there be an explosion from beneath1 or a crash of trolley1 subway1 or elevated cars1 with a generous complement of fire and flood and gale added1 would go crazed if he thought much on these things4 ,therefore it is hard to get him to think of 8safety first40 ,it is rather 8,i should worry10 and it actually prolongs life1 so long as it is applied to familiar things--it keeps nerve systems from breaking4 ,this is why it is so hard to get the city driver accustomed to caution in places of real peril4 ,one of the worst of these is driving over railway tracks4 ,out on the ,huckleberry division1 where there is but one train a day each way if luck favors the intending passengers1 there is not so much danger2 but in the vicinity of all the large cities where suburban trains run often and through trains are numerous1 it behooves the autoist to acquire speedily a belief in signs4 ,the usual sign at a railroad crossing is a post with two arms in the form of an ,x to warn highway travelers4 ,it matters not that there is a flagman or gates1 a due sense of caution is necessary for the driver of an auto4 ,the railway near the writer's old home had signs reading3 8,stop1 ,look1 ,listen02 and this should be the slogan of the driver nearing a railway crossing today4 ,in spite of the ringing of engine bells and blowing of locomotive whistles and of other precautions of the railway company1 it is incumbent upon the motorist to be careful1 to know that there is no train approaching4 ,an automobile may be stopped within a few feet and the train sometimes takes a quarter of a mile for a stop2 therefore the motorist should not trust to the stopping of the locomotive1 for by that time it might be everlastingly too late4 ,better stop the auto at every crossing if the noise of the motor prevents hearing whistle or bell signals from the train4 ,but there is a worse dereliction than failing to make sure that a train is not at hand1 and that is the devil-may-care spirit which prompts driver to spurt up the engine and dash for the crossing to get over ahead of the train that is in plain sight4 ,there are few persons who can estimate the speed of a railway train with any degree of accuracy1 even the railway employes having to check the time between known points to estimate the speed1 unless there is a speedometer4 ,the autoist1 looking at a coming train1 sees it at an angle which prevents his comparing it with fixed objects and cannot tell if it is running ten or sixty miles an hour as a rule4 ,it does not do any good to talk about rights and failure to hear a warning after the final ceremonies are over and the cemetery has another monument1 and the writer would much prefer to be a live snail than a dead hare1 and would agree to make his destination first1 as well4 ,neither will it do to talk about the fool-killer and his good work2 sometimes others than the foolish driver are imperiled and suffer4 ,there is only one way to regard it and that is to resolve to observe the ordinary rules of caution and to make sure that one is not trying to occupy the same space as a railway train at the same time4 ,the train has might1 if not right1 you know4 ,equally important are the crossings of trolley lines1 in these days of high-speed trains and cars1 and quite as many accidents occur at street intersections where two main lines of travel cross1 even though there be no trolley lines4 ,it takes so little effort and so little loss of time to slow down until one can see the way clear1 when there is no traffic man at the crossing4 ,but if one needs be careful of his own hide1 it is quite as important that he be careful of the other fellow's anatomy4 ,it is easy to say of the pedestrian1 or the man in another vehicle1 let him keep out of the way1 or keep to his own side of the road2 well1 if he don't1 you can keep out of his way and you will be a great deal happier at the end of your trip than if you disregard him and there is an accident4 ,one hardly likes to contemplate even an unavoidable injury to another4 ,it must be remembered1 also1 that the pedestrian has rights upon the highway greater than the auto driver4 ,it is popular to talk about the 8jay-hawker0 and to assume that the man on foot has few rights in the road1 whereas he has the first right1 according to the ,united ,states ,supreme ,court1 and no amount of traffic rules and ordinances and laws can affect his right4 ,without respect to the wisdom of his doing it1 the man afoot has the right to travel in the middle of the road if he cares to1 and it is the duty of the driver to keep out of his way4 ,remembrance of this may save the driver damages in large amount1 for the courts will assess the careless driver1 or the careful driver for that matter1 if the pedestrian is hurt and asks damages4 ,,chapter ,,xxvii ,,an ,,auto ,,furnace ,,for ,,winter ,have you a little hot air furnace on your car8 ,you need one on frosty mornings unless you want the engine to act as though it had an acute attack of bronchitis for half or three-quarters of an hour4 ,maybe you'll also need to get out the teakettle and some more extras to get started in proper shape4 ,a lot of men borrow their wives' dishrags also to help start the cars4 ,great help1 too4 ,there is not a bit of foolishness about this as the man who has a car will appreciate1 if he has tried to start it with the temperature down at the freezing point and a wind blowing that would carry off the engine heat so fast the metal would remain cold4 ,probably most other folks have noticed that a lot of cars sputter and cough and spit and pop as though all kinds of trouble were going on inside1 and the experienced ear can detect many a six-cylinder hitting only on two of the cylinders1 while many a flivver is chug-chugging away like one of the old one-lungers of ancient auto days4 ,not only is this at the start1 but for blocks and even miles4 ,now to a novice1 the new owner1 the first inclination would be to cuss the manufacturer and the engine4 ,it isn't the fault of the engine at all2 it is because 8the gasoline doesn't gas40 ,however there is a solution of the problem1 at least enough of a remedy to make life a little happier for the owner4 ,this condition of gas was absent for several years4 ,in the early days of automobile construction1 before the manufacturers were able to devise a carburetor for vaporizing gasoline under all conditions1 we had this same trouble as soon as the weather turned cold4 ,persistent experiments produced a carburetor which overcame the trouble4 ,then almost as soon as a carburetor was developed which would vaporize the gasoline under adverse conditions1 somehow the volatility of the gasoline was found to have decreased4 ,you will remember the contest between armor plate and big guns--as soon as an impenetrable armor plate was invented1 some genius would go ahead and find a powder or gun which would shatter the impenetrable plate4 ,then the armor factory would try to find something to outwit the gun maker4 ,that is the way with carburetor and gasoline4 ,it is time for the carburetor maker to devise a scheme to volatilize the heavy gasoline now supplied under all conditions--particularly in cold weather4 ,there are signs that he is matching up to the emergency4 ,it is true that the gasoline now sold has a greater heat-producing quality1 if only we can get it properly mixed and volatilized4 ,it may be that the gasoline producers1 by putting heavier gasoline on the market1 have been of a real service to auto men1 once we have learned to utilize it economically and efficiently4 ,they may have had in mind the higher power1 but they have given us a gas which is very hard to vaporize on a frosty morning4 ,sometime soon1 probably the carburetor man will catch up and give us a vaporizer which will handle it4 ,until they do1 we will have to look for means of overcoming the difficulties now experienced1 and it is largely a question of warming up the air4 ,in changing gasoline from liquid to vapor1 considerable heat must be supplied4 ,when the atmospheric temperature is too low1 there is not sufficient heat in it to vaporize the gasoline sprayed into the carburetor4 ,when the engine is warm1 the process of vaporization goes on from the needle valve to the moment of ignition1 but if the engine is cold1 the process is retarded more or less1 and under some conditions it is possible for thoroughly vaporized gasoline to be again condensed4 ,the man who does not understand is inclined to say uncomplimentary things about the engine and talk about 8fireproof gasoline40 ,the only trouble is that the temperature is so low that we must heat the air before we send it into the carburetor4 ,practically all the carburetor manufacturers put out a 8stove0 to heat the air supply1 which is attached around the exhaust pipe1 so that the hot air surrounding the pipe is conveyed to the carburetor1 which warms the air entering the intake1 thus supplying the heat necessary to effect vaporization4 ,this 8stove0 or gas warmer1 the chauffeurs are beginning to call a 8hot-air furnace40 ,the process of vaporization absorbs a large amount of heat4 ,to raise the temperature of the liquid one degree takes a certain amount of heat4 ,the amount required per degree remains the same until the point of vaporization is reached1 when two hundred times that amount of heat is required to effect vaporization4 ,the 8hot-air furnace0 supplies the extra amount of heat4 ,a great many carburetors have the mixing chamber water-jacketed and the water from the cooling system is circulated through it1 supplying some heat in that way4 ,sometimes that in itself is sufficient1 but at present it seems advisable to use both4 ,neither one of these is in operation when the engine is started2 the 8hot-air furnace0 depends upon the exhaust pipe being heated1 and the water-jacket upon the engine itself being heated long enough to warm up the circulating water4 ,so that it becomes necessary to find some means to supply heat until these warm up4 ,when the car is started in a warm garage the gasoline will vaporize properly and the engine will run in good shape1 but as soon as the car goes out into the cold air it will cool the engine so that some of the gasoline will be condensed4 ,therefore we close the radiator cover partly or wholly until the engine is thoroughly warmed4 ,if the car is started in a cold garage1 the teakettle and dishrag method must be resorted to4 ,wrap the cloth around the carburetor so that it does not cover the air intake1 and pour the boiling water on the rag1 taking care that none gets in the air intake4 ,the hot water will heat the carburetor and intake pipe and raise the temperature of the mixture so that the engine will run4 ,in some cases it may be necessary even to drain out the cooling system and fill it with hot water1 so that the combustion chamber becomes heated up4 ,as the weather becomes colder it will be found necessary1 no doubt1 to close up the radiator more and more in order to keep the engine at the required temperature4 ,high engine temperature1 up to the point where the water in the cooling system begins to boil1 is desirable from the standpoint of efficiency1 and if no trouble is experienced with irregular running1 the hotter the engine is1 the larger amount of power is developed4 ,one manufacturer has incorporated in the radiator a shutter-like device1 by means of which the amount of air admitted may be regulated from the driver's seat4 ,doubtless others will follow1 or find an equally good substitute4 ,radiator covers to fit almost any car now made may be procured at trifling expense2 one may simply put a piece of cardboard over it4 ,being out without a cover recently when the engine did not work right1 the author stopped when he came to a newsboy and bought a paper and tied it over the radiator1 getting home all right with this substitute4 ,one man complained that his car would start out well and run all right as long as he was going away from home1 but as soon as he turned homeward it would begin to act up4 ,he wanted to know if the car had the wanderlust4 ,inquiry developed the fact that the trips he spoke of on the going trip were with the wind and returning against it4 ,the added force of the wind over the engine cooled the engine too much1 and he was advised to cover the radiator under such circumstances4 ,he reported no trouble after trying it4 ,of course1 sometimes1 the skipping can be overcome by enriching the mixture by the dash control1 but with the present heavy gasoline the enriched mixture does not seem to do much good and is simply adding to the supply of gasoline which already is refusing to vaporize4 ,therefore it seems to be the stove and the dishrag for the cold engine4 ,,chapter ,,xxviii ,,the ,,cooling ,,system ,,in ,,winter ,while there are many sections of the country where it is necessary to put the car away for that portion of the year when the ground is covered with snow and ice1 and for that reason many cars are put in storage1 yet there are sections where this is not necessary4 ,and likewise1 in the ,northern cities1 where the snow is cleared from the streets after every storm1 the improvement in carburetors and the adoption of heating devices have made it possible to keep the car in commission where formerly it was thought impossible4 ,there are two things necessary if the car is to be operated in winter1 the first of which is some anti-freezing solution for the cooling system2 the second is a device for warming the mixture before admission to the cylinders4 ,many things have been tried for making the cooling system freeze-proof4 ,the most common are salt1 glycerin1 and alcohol4 ,any one of these in the proper proportion will insure against freezing4 ,they are not equally desirable1 however4 ,salt has a tendency to set up electrolitic action where iron and brass parts are combined in the cooling system1 but four pounds of salt to the gallon will give a solution which will not freeze until seventeen degrees below zero1 ,fahrenheit1 is reached4 ,glycerin will keep the water from freezing1 but it is expensive and if rubber hose is used to connect radiator and the cylinder pipes1 glycerin will cause it to decompose rapidly4 ,denatured alcohol probably is the best to use1 mixed with water in proportion as the cold to be expected may demand4 ,twenty per cent4 of alcohol will give protection to five degrees above zero2 thirty per cent4 to nine degrees below zero1 and thirty-five per cent4 to sixteen degrees below4 ,the owner must not make the error of using a mixture which will protect him only for the average low temperature of his locality4 ,for thirty years the average minimum for the vicinity of ,new ,york ,city was twelve degrees above zero4 ,the man who thought he was playing safe with a twenty-per-cent4 solution would have ruined his engine on one of the days while this material was being prepared1 for the temperature went to twenty below in the suburbs and to seventeen below in the city4 ,unless the owner had foresight enough to drain out the cooling solution there would have been burst radiator and pipes1 and perhaps a cracked cylinder1 or at least the water-jacket1 to be replaced4 ,even a thirty-five per cent4 solution would not have saved the damage4 ,probably a combination of alcohol and glycerin will suit the particular owner a little better than alcohol alone1 since there is less evaporation1 and a single dose of glycerin will last the entire season1 only alcohol and water needing to be added to replace that boiled away or evaporated4 ,half alcohol and half glycerin is the proper proportion to be added to the water4 ,it has one advantage1 that it freezes quite a bit lower than the alcohol alone4 ,while there are many kinds of solutions sold which are 8guaranteed10 the owner can make his own at less expense1 even considering prices of alcohol and glycerin4 ,the same treatment must be given to an acetylene gas producer1 since the water will freeze in that and burst the tank4 ,another thing which must be taken into account in winter is the warming of the mixture for starting so that it does not condense the moment it strikes the cold cylinder walls4 ,modern cars are provided with means for accomplishing this when the engine has started1 but the hot-water jacket and hot-air furnace depend upon a warmed-up engine for their availability1 and for starting other means must be devised4 ,it may often be wise to drain off the anti-freeze solution from the cooling system and substitute hot water until the engine is well warmed up1 then replacing the anti-freeze mixture4 ,there also are various devices for heating the carburetor and intake manifold while the engine is warming up4 ,there is an electric heater1 where one has current in the garage and other ways of accomplishing the same thing4 ,if no better means is at hand a hot-water bottle about half full1 so that it can be wrapped about the manifold1 may do it all right2 or a cloth wrapped about the manifold and carburetor without covering the air intake1 and a kettle of hot water1 may do it satisfactorily4 ,these methods are considered more at length in the preceding chapter4 ,it will doubtless be found necessary to prime the engine in starting in cold weather1 and it is wise to carry a squirt can for this purpose1 though a piece of waste saturated from the carburetor drip cock and squeezed over the priming cup will do the trick4 ,if there are no priming cups it means taking out the spark plugs4 ,for running at low temperatures it will be found desirable1 if indeed not necessary1 to keep the anti-freeze solution from cooling too rapidly and thus retarding combustion in the cylinders4 ,most engines run better in the winter when the fan is disconnected by removing the belt4 ,when it becomes very cold1 however1 other means must be provided in the way of radiator covers4 ,these may be procured at any supply house1 fitted to any car4 ,they are in various forms1 usually with a curtain which may be lifted for moderate temperatures and closed when extremes are reached4 ,anything which will cover the air spaces of the radiator may be used in an emergency1 if one is caught by a sudden drop in the temperature4 ,a blanket1 a bag1 even a newspaper or wrapping paper tied on will work properly until better provision can be made4 ,care of the lubrication system is needed also in cold weather1 since oil does not flow the same when cold as when warm4 ,most manufacturers give a schedule of oils for different seasons and this should be followed explicitly for best results4 ,the owner should make sure that the oil is feeding through the system4 ,if there is a dash sight feed it should be watched1 for while oil does not freeze1 it does get very viscid and1 like molasses1 flows stiff at low temperatures4 ,however1 winter lubrication has been studied by engineers for a quarter of a century and oils which are suited to all climes and all extremes are no novelty4 ,the manufacturer is the best judge of the oil which will work most satisfactorily in the machine he turns out2 besides1 general advice could not be given which would apply to all cars4 ,as a rule the man who sells oil should not be taken as an adviser in lubrication4 ,in case of doubt go to the service station1 if within reach1 for advice4 ,this does not mean that an owner should not substitute a different brand of oil when he cannot get the one the manufacturer specifies2 but he should get a corresponding quality and then watch results closely until a supply of the right kind is available4 ,experience and study will be a sufficient guide for the careful owner4 ,,chapter ,,xxix ,,overheating ,,the ,,engine ,,in ,,summer ,the automobile engine will heat up too quickly in hot weather1 just as an individual will4 ,no1 we did not say overeat2 though if you let the engine gorge itself too long on motor fodder1 it will help to overheat as well as overeat4 ,there are a variety of reasons for the overheating1 which it is well for the novice to understand4 ,those who have found it necessary during the winter to cover the radiator and take off the fan belt and do other things to keep the engine hot enough to run smoothly and with the proper vaporization and firing1 may find in summer that they are having as much or more trouble in keeping the engine cool enough to run properly4 ,generally speaking1 the nearer to the boiling point we can run the engine without actually having the water boil and steam away1 the more efficient it will be4 ,some engines1 in fact1 develop much less than the maximum horse-power because they are too well cooled1 and yet we hear a great many complaints about the water boiling in the radiator and the engine overheating4 ,this would not occur if everything were working as the designer intended it should4 ,during cold weather the man who drives with a retarded spark uses up more gasoline than necessary1 but he is not bothered with overheating4 ,when the mercury goes up he finds that his engine overheats and gives him trouble4 ,he has not changed his manner of driving1 and cannot understand why there should be trouble4 ,driving the engine at high speed with the spark retarded is one very good way of overheating the engine4 ,as a matter of fact1 the battery ignition systems which are now coming more into use require considerable manipulation of the spark-control lever1 and the tendency is1 because the engine knocks at low speed1 to leave the lever partly retarded1 instead of advancing it1 when a higher speed is reached4 ,with the magneto1 it is the general practice to advance the lever to three-fourths or seven-eighths of the full range right after the engine is started and leave it there for practically all work1 except very high speeds4 ,this may be done largely with such a system1 because the nature of the spark given by the magneto changes somewhat with the speed of the engine1 and the equivalent of an automatic advance and retard of the spark occurs with the variation of speed of the motor4 ,with the battery system1 however1 there is very little change in the nature of the spark effected by the engine speed4 ,a frequent cause of chronic overheating may be traced to sediment in the radiator which cuts off free radiation of the heat4 ,this usually may be removed by the use of a saturated solution of washing soda and water4 ,with the advent of summer each year it would be well to fill the cooling system with a solution of this sort and run the engine for several hours and then drain it off and refill the system with clean water4 ,if in the system used a pump is employed1 one should disconnect the upper hose from the radiator and run the engine to pump the solution out of the system4 ,at the same time water from a hose or other source should be fed into the top of the radiator as fast as it is pumped out1 and thus flush the entire system1 before connecting up the hose again4 ,where the thermo-syphon system is used1 which does not employ a pump1 this1 of course1 cannot be done1 but one should remove both upper and lower hose connections after running the engine with the solution and wash it out with fresh water as well as possible4 ,a hose inserted in the upper connection probably would force all the solution out with any collection of sediment1 and the same process with the radiator ought to clean it out4 ,fan belts are more likely to get out of order in hot weather than in cold weather2 perhaps this is because the engine throws oil or grease more readily when it is warm4 ,belts should have grease enough to keep them soft and pliable1 of course1 but too much causes slipping4 ,they should be wiped free of all oil occasionally4 ,there is always a belt adjustment and this should be tightened so that there is sufficient tension to drive the fan at all engine speeds4 ,some engines have the spokes of the fly-wheel shaped to form a fan1 and where this is the case the oil pan and hood should be kept tight so that air will be drawn through the radiator rather than through other openings4 ,if the radiator is not kept free from oil the outside passages will very quickly collect dust1 which will prevent a free flow of air and cut off radiating surface1 which also occurs when the front of the radiator is smeared too thickly with paint4 ,pumps do wear out1 but this is one of the last places to look for trouble4 ,the action of the pump may be determined usually by removing the radiator filler cap when the engine is running and noting whether the water is circulating1 but if a baffle plate is placed in the filler opening1 it cannot be seen1 and a test may be made in the same manner in which the cleaning solution is washed out1 namely1 by removing the top hose from the radiator and running the engine1 while supplying water through the filler opening4 ,with the thermo-syphon system there is very little pressure generated and a slight obstruction will stop the flow of water4 ,therefore it is more necessary to keep the system free from sediment and to see that the gaskets at the joints are made with circular openings of the right sizes so as not to obstruct the flow of water4 ,likewise water must be kept above the top hose of the radiator in order to have any circulation in this type of cooling system4 ,another cause of overheating1 which it has been found very difficult to locate1 comes from carelessness in stretching the hose over the pipe4 ,in doing this sometimes the inner lining of the hose is loosened and folds back1 covering the opening of the pipe1 so that water does not flow freely4 ,it looks all right from the outside1 but an examination of the inside will show that it is almost entirely clogged at the end4 ,also1 the lining of the hose will often loosen up and pieces will lodge where they cut off the circulation4 ,keep the engine free from carbon and keep the valve push rods adjusted close1 have the mixture as lean as possible and be sure the exhaust from the muffler is free4 ,taking care of these things and seeing that the other things mentioned are all right1 will prevent most of the overheating which troubles the novice1 if1 indeed1 not all of it4 ,they are things which should not be trusted entirely to chauffeur or garage man1 but the owner should learn how to take care of them himself2 then if he wants to hire it done he will know if it is being done according to his orders and will recognize the symptoms when anything goes wrong4 ,it may take a little time and get one's hands somewhat soiled1 but it pays in the long run1 not alone in the saving of labor but in the absence of annoyance when out on a trip4 ,it is far from pleasant to have to stop along a hot roadside to make repairs which should have been done in the garage1 with probable delay and consequent upsetting of the schedule4 ,therefore1 it behooves the owner to look after these things before starting out and to learn his car so well that he will anticipate troubles and by removing causes save time and money4 ,,chapter ,,xxx ,,some ,,other ,,hot-,,weather ,,tips ,there are a number of other points which should be borne in mind by auto owners with the coming of hot weather1 if the most efficient service is to be had from the car4 ,one of the ,y4 ,m4 ,c4 ,a4 secretaries excitedly called the school to ask why a seemingly good tire should blow out after a short run4 ,a few minutes later another secretary put the same inquiry with variations4 ,that is1 he had a tire which was rather old1 but it had been inflated for two weeks and had been running every day since inflation1 when it tested eighty pounds' pressure4 ,it had blown out4 ,the first secretary had been invited by a friend to take a ride4 ,he had watched the tires inflated and all other bits of preparedness and saw that nothing was overlooked1 and settled down for a fine ride4 ,the blow-out came about five miles away4 ,the trouble with both was that they had not taken into account the fact that summer was at hand4 ,experienced drivers know that in hot weather1 whether it is according to rules or not1 it is better not to keep the tire pressure so high as during the cold months1 even though it means more wear on the tires4 ,considerable heat is generated by rolling a tire over the ground4 ,this heat expands the air in the tire and increases the pressure4 ,in the winter this heat is absorbed to a large extent by the cold atmosphere and the cold and wet pavements1 and therefore the pressure does not vary so much4 ,in the summer the roads are very hot1 the air temperature is high1 and the heat generated by friction is not carried off to any appreciable extent4 ,on a recent summer trip the writer noticed that the car was riding harder than usual and a test of the pressure on the tires developed the fact that it was above normal4 ,to find out just what the difference in pressure would be1 the pressure for each tire was taken before leaving the garage next morning4 ,after rolling about forty miles at an average speed of thirty miles an hour1 the pressure was again tested4 ,it had increased about twelve pounds on each tire4 ,several tire manufacturers insist that owners shall not carry less pressure on tires in hot weather1 saying that the increased pressure due to heat is not sufficient to materially affect their make4 ,this probably is true for new tires1 or for about two-thirds of their guaranteed life1 but if the tire has been weakened1 through having been run under-inflated1 or from fabric deterioration through cuts in the tread1 there is danger from the increase in pressure due to heat4 ,more tires are damaged by under-inflation than by over-inflation1 because the former breaks down the side walls through running flat1 in practically every case1 while the over-inflation causes a blow-out only when the tire is weak at some point4 ,it would be good practice1 however1 on hot summer days1 to leave the garage with the tire pressure about ten pounds less than that specified by the manufacturer as being correct for his make4 ,any driver ought to test out his tires after running at a good clip on a hot day and find out just what they do4 ,a little persistence would enable him to understand how much his tires heat up and he could regulate the pressure accordingly4 ,manufacturers of high-pressure tires resent the above advice and declare that it is wrong4 ,the succeeding chapter tells of definite tests made and the owner can draw his own inferences and decide for himself whether he wants high tire mileage1 or comfort with pretty good tire mileage4 ,there are some other hot-weather points which it might be well to keep in mind if one would get the best results from the car4 ,one of these is the care of the carburetor4 ,it will be found usually that not quite so much gasoline is required as in cold weather1 and therefore the dash adjustment may be carried a little nearer the lean1 or air1 side4 ,this not only saves gasoline1 but increases the power of the motor1 for a too heavy mixture makes it run logy4 ,it will be found also that in most cases the hot-air stove of the carburetor may be dispensed with or adjusted4 ,usually provision is made on the hot-air stoves for allowing some cold air to enter1 or to take cold air entirely4 ,where the carburetor is water-jacketed1 there usually is a valve that may be closed to prevent the flow of hot water4 ,experiment will determine whether it is advisable to cut out the heat entirely on the individual carburetor1 since all are not benefited by the change4 ,the water in the storage battery will evaporate more quickly in hot weather and where it has been necessary to replenish it once in two weeks in the winter1 it will need to be done every week in hot weather4 ,this is not entirely due to evaporation from heat but is accounted for in part by the fact that the engine starts easier and therefore less current is used for starting2 also there is more daylight and the lamps are used less4 ,therefore the battery is more often in a fully charged condition1 and in this condition the charging current causes more gas than when the battery is lower4 ,this is due to the chemical action which decomposes the water1 the hydrogen and oxygen gases passing off through the vent holes2 the water escapes from this cause as gas and not as vapor1 as it does when there is evaporation4 ,in hot weather city streets are generally sprinkled regularly and the country roads are oiled some time during the season4 ,the novice going behind a street sprinkler1 or reaching an oiled stretch of road1 should exercise particular care to prevent skidding1 as he would be unlikely to realize the danger unless he has experienced it once4 ,this is explained fully in the part of this book devoted to skidding4 ,hot weather softens grease1 so that trouble may be experienced through grease or oil seeping out of transmission or differential cases1 or from the grease cups4 ,many manufacturers recommend a heavier grease for summer than for winter to give the greatest efficiency4 ,this softening of the grease is likely to make a little ring of grease around each cup1 which will collect dust and give the car an unkempt appearance1 besides there is the possibility of some of the dust working into the bearing4 ,grease cups must be kept turned down so that the dust is forced out1 and then it should be carefully wiped off4 ,every bearing needs additional care to keep dust out and lubricant in1 but every moment spent in this way pays dividends in expense saved and comfort and freedom from annoyance on the road1 so that the owner will do well to take note that hot weather calls for added care and precautions4 ,,chapter ,,xxxi ,,hot-,,weather ,,tire ,,expansion ,there is considerable question whether the pressure on tires should be decreased during the hot summer days4 ,tire manufacturers claim1 as a rule1 that tires heat more on low pressure than when run at the full pressure given by them4 ,they claim that even a slight decrease to offset any increase from heating1 because of warmer temperature of the air1 friction1 and the hot pavements1 will injure the tires4 ,on the other hand1 drivers of long experience insist that the car should be started out with the tires softer than in cold weather4 ,still others insist that the tire pressure demanded by the manufacturer makes the tire too hard for comfort and that when the pressure is increased by heat it makes the tire as hard as one of solid rubber4 ,there is some truth on both sides4 ,there has been considerable criticism of the conclusions drawn from the writer's experience with tires while on a summer tour1 related in the previous chapter4 ,he stated that there was a twelve-pound increase in a forty-mile run4 ,this was disputed4 ,tests prove that he was right and that in city driving tires ordinarily heat up even when the conditions are not extreme4 ,to determine what effect the hot weather has on tires in the city1 the author drove a #cbjj-pound ,model ,l ,locomobile1 equipped all around with #cd #d-a_/b inch tires1 through the park and on ,riverside ,drive for fifteen miles at ordinary city-traffic speed1 which always is under twenty miles an hour4 ,the thermometer registered #hf degrees and the day was partly overcast1 so that the full effect of the sun on the pavements was not obtained4 ,the tires were inflated to full #ij pounds1 which is the pressure recommended by many manufacturers4 ,at the end of the run1 one tire registered #aja pounds1 two were #ajj pounds1 and one was #ii pounds4 ,the conditions were not excessive in any way and the weather was not abnormal1 the road was smooth except for very short stretches1 the speed was low1 and the tires were of ample size for the weight of car and load4 ,after the test run1 a gauge was made to test the flattening effect on the tire from a lowered pressure4 ,with the car loaded it was necessary to decrease the pressure in the tire to #fe pounds to have #a_/af inch bulge of the side of the tire4 ,at #gj pounds pressure there was no flattening perceptible by the use of the gauge4 ,it is certain that more tires are damaged by under-inflation than by over-inflation1 also that perfect new tires will stand more than #bj pounds over-inflation without damage to them4 ,but it is reasonable to believe that1 if a tire has become weakened from any cause1 it will blow out quicker under increased pressure4 ,it is also a fact that a tire inflated to the pressure recommended by many manufacturers has very little resiliency1 and the riding qualities of the car are very greatly impaired1 and when the pressure rises slightly higher the tire loses its chief function1 that of absorbing the small road shocks4 ,anyone who has had the experience of riding on hard tires knows the discomfort of it2 one might about as well ride on solid tires4 ,but all this comes back to the question3 ,what is under-inflation8 ,a tire with ten pounds less pressure than recommended probably will heat more than when carrying a full pressure2 but it will very quickly come up to the required pressure when the car is run4 ,as the pressure recommended by many manufacturers is the extreme so far as comfort in riding is concerned1 the car owner must take his choice between comfort and tire mileage1 assuming that a slightly less pressure does decrease the life of the tire4 ,presumably the average owner would rather have comfortable riding1 even at the expense of tire mileage1 and we are not prepared to admit that decreased mileage would be an inevitable result with ten pounds less pressure4 ,beyond question the average man would not use a substitute for gasoline which gave him all sorts of discomfort because it did not run the engine smoothly1 even if it gave a slightly greater mileage to the gallon4 ,one manufacturer of fabric tires recommends #ef pounds pressure for a #d-;inch tire and guarantees #ejjj miles1 and makes the claim that this pressure makes riding much more comfortable4 ,another well-known manufacturer advises inflating the tire only to the point where there is no bulge or flattening1 and another type of pneumatic tire has become very popular because it requires still less pressure and makes riding that much more pleasurable4 ,where tires are hard and roads are rough1 the machine jumps around so that it is more likely to jump off the road1 therefore there is an element of safety as well as comfort involved4 ,for all around comfort1 though possibly with lessened tire mileage1 the conclusion is reached that a ten-pound decrease in pressure in hot summer weather is desirable4 ,the tire cannot be damaged much1 because after a very few minutes on really hot pavements the pressure will equal that recommended by the most exacting manufacturer and any overheating due to this cause would be a matter of very short duration4 ,as was said in the previous chapter1 the wise owner will test out his car and tires and find out just the proper amount of decrease the tires will stand4 ,he will then have to decide whether he wants the highest amount of tire mileage or the highest amount of comfort and act accordingly4 ,it is beside the argument1 but a matter of fact1 that a certain tire salesman1 a fellow who is quite insistent upon a certain pressure being maintained1 makes it his invariable practice to deflate his tires ten pounds in hot weather2 he wants tire mileage1 too4 ,all of which goes to show that some people do not always practice what they preach1 or take the medicine they give to others4 ,,chapter ,,xxxii ,,guarding ,,against ,,fire ,the education of automobile owners and chauffeurs is decreasing the number of cars which go up in smoke1 but there still are cases enough to require a word of warning as to causes and prevention4 ,automobile fires sometimes come from causes not ordinarily considered under the control of the driver4 ,however1 a little extra caution in a few matters will render the motorist practically free from danger4 ,of course1 the principal cause of automobile fires is from back-firing4 ,without going into all the causes of back-firing1 the chief one is too lean a mixture fed to the cylinders4 ,this will almost invariably cause back-fire in starting4 ,really1 the chief trouble comes in starting when the engine is cold1 and naturally this is most frequent in the winter4 ,when there is a back-fire a sheet of flame comes from the air intake of the carburetor2 if there is anything inflammable in that vicinity1 it is quite likely to take fire4 ,gasoline vaporizes so rapidly that if there is gasoline in the drip pan there is almost sure to be a sufficient mixture around the carburetor to make trouble4 ,as a matter of fact1 the drip pan under the carburetor should be so arranged as to allow any gasoline to be drained off before it has had time to vaporize4 ,indeed1 there ought not to be very much gasoline in the drip pan at any time4 ,if it comes from a leak in the supply pipe or the connection to the carburetor1 the leak should be repaired4 ,if it comes from an overflow of the carburetor due to poor seating of the float valve1 that should be taken apart and cleaned so that the float valve will seat properly4 ,these two things are practically the only occasion for gasoline in the drip pan4 ,another cause of fire may be in running for some time at extreme speed4 ,this usually will cause the exhaust pipe to become very hot1 sometimes to glow4 ,the exhaust pipe in some cases is placed close to the woodwork of the car1 which may be set on fire4 ,particularly is this true if the woodwork has an accumulation of grease and oil1 and here is where caution will have a beneficial effect4 ,the owner who keeps the woodwork free from oil and grease--cleans it off regularly and thoroughly--minimizes the danger at this point4 ,the pipe also heats up when the engine is run with a greatly retarded spark4 ,sometimes the pipe gets red-hot and it is an easy matter to ignite the woodwork4 ,here again oil or grease would increase the danger4 ,the economical operator will not allow grease and oil to be wasted in this way1 aside from the fact that grease1 oil1 and gasoline in drip pan or carburetor form a menace hard to overestimate4 ,fires have been started occasionally by opening the muffler 8cut-out0 in starting up4 ,this is particularly dangerous when the car is in a garage1 where usually there are grease and gasoline spilled around on the floor1 giving off fumes and creating a danger zone4 ,occasionally when the car is standing in the garage the supply line will drip a little4 ,it may be all right when the gasoline is flowing into the carburetor regularly1 but when it stands1 a tiny drip will make a considerable mixture under the car4 ,a leak1 so small as to be unnoticed ordinarily1 when continued over night will cause enough mixture to be dangerous4 ,if1 to aid the engine1 the operator opens up the 8cut-out10 there are quite likely to be some sparks flying out4 ,sparks and gas mixture are a very perilous combination and there is pretty sure to be a blazing car in a moment4 ,sometimes in filling the gasoline tank it overflows and drips down4 ,perhaps the driver1 delayed by taking on gasoline1 is in a hurry1 so he opens the 8cut-out0 and finds that making haste is often dangerous4 ,another cause of fires comes from short-circuiting of the ignition or lighting systems when a storage battery is used4 ,occasionally a short-circuit will heat one of the wires red-hot and burn off the insulation4 ,then1 if there be an accumulation of grease1 oil1 or gasoline1 there will be trouble4 ,to obviate vibration1 some chauffeurs pack around the battery with used waste1 which is more or less greasy4 ,it is possible for a tool to drop down on the battery and give off a spark1 or1 under vibration1 a series of sparks1 sufficient to set fire to the waste4 ,it is on record1 in one of the old-style cars1 that a cushion spring wore through and dropped down on the battery1 making a spark every time the spring touched the terminals1 and eventually setting fire to the car4 ,the remedy for all these instances is very obvious4 ,another cause of fire1 which has been written about a great deal1 is static electricity1 which is generated when gasoline is filtered through chamois under certain conditions4 ,very many funnels have a chamois strainer4 ,gasoline poured upon chamois creates static electricity4 ,it is all right if the funnel touches the gas tank1 but if it does not1 a static spark is very likely to cross the gap and set fire to the volatilizing gasoline4 ,the remedy1 of course1 is either not to use chamois or to see that there is a perfect connection between the funnel and the tank4 ,since one of the chief troubles is the back-firing when the car is started1 it would be well for the owner1 when starting the car in cold weather1 to enrich the mixture slightly2 this will prevent the back-firing1 and when the engine is well started the mixture may be adjusted to the proper proportion4 ,most cars now have a means of enriching the mixture on the dash4 ,it ought not to be necessary to suggest the wisdom of carrying along one of the approved fire extinguishers1 but it is a fact that very many owners 8take a chance40 ,the insurance companies make a reduction in the premium when a fire extinguisher is carried1 which is a pretty good indication that they consider it a valuable accessory on the car4 ,some companies insist that one be carried4 ,inasmuch as fires may occur even with the most careful operator1 from causes beyond his control1 such as the accidental short-circuit1 or the carelessness of others1 it may be out of place to suggest that the owner of a valuable car1 or one who really cares1 insure his car4 ,rates are fairly reasonable1 and if insurance ever is good it surely ought to be in the case of an automobile1 where several thousands of dollars are often centered in a very small compass4 ,,chapter ,,xxxiii ,,don',t ,,run ,,away ,,from ,a ,,fire ,whatever may be the cause of a fire in your automobile1 do not run away from it4 ,stay and fight the fire4 ,often the utmost haste is needed in getting out of the car when a fire starts1 but on the way out grab the fire extinguisher and turn to use it4 ,do not be afraid that there will be an explosion and run4 ,there will be none1 and if you work fast you may save serious damage to the car4 ,keep your head and fight4 ,the presumption is that you will have a good extinguisher on the car4 ,two would be better and more in keeping with a high-priced car1 both placed where they can be gotten at instantly1 for gasoline fires spread mighty fast4 ,the causes of fires have been pretty well discussed in the preceding chapter1 and the fact that care will prevent all but a negligible percentage of fires4 ,back-fire1 for instance1 may be made harmless by placing over the air intake a screen of wire gauze1 such as is used in a miner's safety lamp4 ,to prevent shutting off some of the air and deranging the carburetor1 the screen should be much larger than the opening of the intake4 ,it can be made in bulb shape and clamped1 soldered1 or wired in position1 and it ought not to require more than average gumption to fit such a device on any carburetor4 ,make sure it is safety gauze4 ,there are several forms of gaskets advertised for this purpose1 but all so far noticed were to go between the carburetor and intake and are too likely to cause condensation of the gasoline to be recommended for use4 ,particularly in cold weather would there be a likelihood of condensation of vaporized or partly vaporized gasoline4 ,but with the wire-gauze screen above described the sting of back-fire will be gone1 as no blaze could pass through it and so reach the gasoline fumes which might be in the drip pan4 ,one cause of fire not often mentioned because of its rarity1 would be from sparks from the magneto or generator brushes1 or from the breaker points which might be hot enough to ignite gasoline fumes and therefore are to be guarded against4 ,since gasoline fumes are heavier than air usually the magneto and generator are set high enough to be above the danger point2 and where the magneto is between the cylinders on the ,v-shaped installation1 there would be no danger4 ,on marine engines1 however1 high installation is being featured lately to offset this very danger4 ,if1 after all precautions are taken1 you are visited by fire1 stay to fight it4 ,get only far enough away to escape being burned1 and then fight and fight hard4 ,work the fire extinguisher for all it is worth1 for in less time than it takes to read this page the fate of your car will have been decided4 ,get out of your head1 first of all1 the idea that there is to be an explosion4 ,it doesn't happen4 ,the first puff from the burning gasoline is the nearest thing to an explosion you will see4 ,after this first puff1 it is fire1 not explosion1 you need fear and fight4 ,tanks will not explode unless empty of gasoline1 or nearly so1 and filled with gasoline fumes--that is1 vapor and air mixed4 ,water is little good in fighting an automobile fire where gasoline and oil are burning4 ,there are several things1 however1 which will quench the flames1 and which should be at hand4 ,if you could get sand and salt in sufficient quantity on the flames it would be effectual1 but of course one could hardly carry a sufficient quantity along4 ,there are also tube extinguishers filled with a dry compound1 which under favorable circumstances will do the trick4 ,but the trouble is to get the compound at the seat of the fire1 and to throw it violently upon the flame is impossible4 ,there is one thing1 however1 which will actually put out a gasoline fire1 and it is such a safeguard that no owner can afford to be without it4 ,that is the carbon tetra-chloride compound1 which is the basis of all liquid extinguishers on the market4 ,this1 discharged close to the seat of the flames1 forms a dense smoke-like gas which has no oxygen to feed the fire1 which therefore goes out for lack of fuel4 ,there are many good extinguishers on the market which use the carbon tetra-chloride mixture with other ingredients to keep it from corroding the pump1 or to add some other quality to the compound4 ,these extinguishers cost more than the dry compound tubes1 but the man who can afford to own a car can afford to have the necessary appliances for its protection4 ,one may never have occasion to use the fire extinguishers1 but it is nice to know that they are ready if the emergency does come1 for there isn't always a fire department handy1 and if there is1 generally the firemen arrive after the car is doomed4 ,,chapter ,,xxxiv ,,death ,,in ,,the ,,gasoline ,most persons understand the danger of getting gasoline and fire in close proximity1 but there is another peril in gasoline which is not so well comprehended--indeed has only come to the attention of scientists in recent months4 ,it is death1 called petromortis1 or gasoline death1 which lurks in the fumes of the burned gases from the exhaust pipe4 ,that which comes from the exhaust is no longer inflammable4 ,it has served its purpose in the combustion chamber by burning with rapid expansion1 furnishing power4 ,it has undergone chemical changes1 has been split up1 the hydro-carbon uniting for the most part with the oxygen of the air in the mixture and forming carbon monoxide and carbon dioxide4 ,the latter is carbonic acid gas1 in which no living thing can live4 ,the carbon monoxide is no less deadly1 and besides there is the nitrogen from the air1 which will suffocate as well1 unless it mingles with the air freely4 ,these three gases exuding from the exhaust pipe into a confined space1 such as a small garage1 would quickly vitiate the atmosphere to a point where1 close to the floor1 asphyxiation would result1 and sooner or later would fill the garage up to the point of the air intake4 ,then1 as oxygen-filled air could not enter the intake to form mixture1 the engine would slow down and stop4 ,there is little danger1 since the deadly gases are heavier than air1 when one is working about the garage in a standing posture1 where the breathing apparatus would be above the strata of gases and taking in the normal air4 ,but where one is working at the tires1 or any part of the car below the level of the gases1 or under the car1 he might be overcome and die of suffocation in a few minutes4 ,it was not until such accidents really had occurred that the attention of the public was directed to this danger4 ,just recently a notable case of death from gasoline fumes was that of a popular actor4 ,he was working in his garage1 and because of the cold had the doors tightly closed4 ,getting under the car to adjust and oil the mechanism while the engine was running to warm it up1 he was overcome by the gases which could not escape from the garage1 and died before being discovered4 ,the chemical composition of the exhaust gases1 according to an expert1 is as follows3 ,,per ,,cent4 ,carbonic acid gas #h4gj ,oxygen #b4ge ,carbon monoxide 4#cj ,hydrocarbons #f4ee ,nitrogen #ha4gj ------ #ajj4jj ,there is much disagreement as to the quantity of carbon monoxide necessary to be fatal4 ,a well-known automobile trade journal recently said that #be per cent4 would produce death in half an hour and #ae per cent4 would produce a violent headache in several hours4 ,other authorities claim that as little as 4#e per cent4 would be fatal4 ,it is more probable that the large amount of suffocating gases1 nitrogen and carbonic acid gas1 produces unconsciousness1 and then the carbon monoxide1 attacking the blood particles1 affects them so that they are unable to take in oxygen2 hence death is certain4 ,there are several ways in which the danger may be obviated4 ,the first and most natural one is to open the garage doors when the engine is being run1 or have an opening on the level with the floor through which the heavy fumes may escape--roll out of the garage4 ,another way is to provide a pipe1 with flexible hose to attach it to the exhaust pipe and leading to the outer air1 so that the exhaust would virtually be out-of-doors4 ,this would not be expensive nor difficult for any ingenious man to arrange4 ,the pipe should be larger than the exhaust nozzle and flexible metal hose of convenient length should be attached by the use of a reducer1 the other end to be forced over the end of the exhaust1 to which a short length of pipe might be added if necessary4 ,three or four inches would be long enough for the hose to attach easily4 ,if necessary a clamp with wing nut on the bolt could be used to hold it in place4 ,gasoline fumes which are not burned also have a peculiar effect when one inhales them profusely4 ,years ago when on a visit to ,oil ,city1 ,pa41 the writer was invited to inspect the old ,imperial ,refinery1 one of the plants which helped found the ,rockefeller millions4 ,one phase of refining kerosene is to wash out the volatile elements which make it dangerous4 ,this is done in an agitator1 where streams of water literally wash the kerosene1 keeping it eddying and boiling as though a fire were under it4 ,the top is open and around it runs a gallery from which the process is watched4 ,it was a favorite trick of the employes to conduct a stranger to this gallery and steer him to the lee side where he gets the full effect of the fumes which pass off4 ,most men not used to it began to feel light-headed in a few minutes and to act as though they had been imbibing strong waters4 ,it is an exact simile of the alcoholic condition1 though without the after effects the next day4 ,to a limited degree one may acquire the same effects from gasoline in the garage if there are large open gasoline receptacles to send off fumes sufficient to affect one4 ,of course1 if there were enough to do this1 a spark from any source would start a fire4 ,,chapter ,,xxxv ,,shifting ,,gears ,,on ,,hills ,one of the most humiliating experiences which can come to an owner is to have to ask his guests1 even if it be only friend wife1 to get out and walk when a long and steep hill is partly ascended4 ,while there are conditions of engine which would make hill climbing hard1 if not impossible1 they are due to neglect or poor adjustment1 so that the engine has not power enough to negotiate stiff grades4 ,the owner who keeps the motor in proper condition1 in practically any make of car on the market today1 should have no trouble in making the worst hills4 ,yet how often we find cars stalled on mountain roads and even on steep city streets1 and see owner and guests walking or pushing the car4 ,recently the writer1 going from ,greenwood ,lake to ,tuxedo1 in ,orange ,county1 ,new ,york1 in a well-known make of touring car1 passed six cars of different kinds stalled at the very start of the climb over ,sterling ,mountain4 ,the first one met was a ,ford4 ,now there is no reason whatever for stalling a car of this make on any hill4 ,it is a matter of comment that the ,ford--much despised by the owner of the big car--will take hills that some multi-cylindered and high-powered cars make much fuss over1 and do it handily4 ,the trouble was that the driver started at high speed and then did not know how to shift the gears properly and the car stalled4 ,when we reached it the ,ford was stalled across the roadway and we had to stop until the driver started the engine and backed the car to one side4 ,not being familiar with the hill-climbing abilities of the car in which he was seated1 the writer inquired of our driver if it were not better to walk awhile4 8,no one will ever walk while ,i am driving10 was the reply1 8unless something breaks4 ,i do not go out riding to walk2 besides the car will carry us all right40 ,and it did4 ,although we had stopped at the very foot of a steep grade fifty feet long1 the car on low gear took it without a stutter1 and then coming to a lesser grade1 a shift was made to second gear4 ,we did not use first speed more than once or twice1 and then only to keep from stalling on the grade when it was necessary to slow down in passing other cars at narrow points in the road4 ,occasionally high speed was possible for short stretches4 ,when well over the top of the mountain we stopped to let the engine cool off for probably ten minutes and then coasted nearly all the way down the mountain side4 ,there was no need of any of the cars stalling on this grade1 though it is long and has many very steep places2 there was no sign that any of the cars was deficient in power4 ,the deficiency was in knowledge on the part of the drivers4 ,where the driver understands gear shifting well enough to do it on a grade1 the proper way to approach a hill is on high1 with the accelerator opened enough1 and spark advanced1 to speed up the car4 ,then when the car begins to lose speed and before it has slowed down too much1 the shift should be made to second-speed gear1 which should carry the car up any ordinary hill4 ,if an extra steep gradient be encountered1 first speed may be necessary for that stretch4 ,it is well just as the foot of a hill is reached to open the throttle wide4 ,if the engine begins to knock or otherwise labor1 retard the spark enough to overcome this4 ,in the chapter on 8,driving the ,car10 detailed instructions for the operation of the gears in hill climbing and descending are given4 ,study these rules closely and try out your car on short grades before attempting long and steep hills4 ,make sure that you know how to operate the levers for gear shifting and then take things easy4 ,do not be in a hurry4 ,haste makes waste4 ,while many high-powered cars1 and sometimes those of less pretentious build1 will take almost any hill on high gear1 it is not always policy to do this4 ,some modern motors are designed with a view to make the climbing of hills easy1 but even so1 the climb made on second-speed gear will take but a trifle longer and the car will not be submitted to the tremendous strain of operation on high speed4 ,it is all very well to boast that one's car will 8take the worst hill on high10 but a better boast would be that the car has stood up for two or three years longer than ordinary1 and care in the operation will produce that result4 ,the driver whose engine is not in the best of condition and which is not delivering its full power1 and especially if he is not fully versed in shifting the gears1 would better not try to take a hill of any length or of any considerable grade on high4 ,indeed it is wise to shift into second gear before starting up the grade1 for nothing is more unpleasant than stalling the engine half way up4 ,and he ought not to despise low speed if necessary to negotiate the hill without straining the engine unduly4 ,motoring is not just piling up mileage records or speeding across the country as though the devil were at one's heels4 ,there are a few things more desirable than miles per hour1 even though the ,american 8,get ,there0 spirit be abroad4 ,generally speaking there is a direct relation between cost per mile and miles per hour1 and while some owners may be able to afford twenty cents and upwards per mile1 the average owner does not care to indulge regularly in such a cost figure4 ,when it comes to descending steep hills1 the cost does not figure so much as safety4 ,how often one sees cars tearing down a hill with the engine running1 gear in high speed1 and devil-may-care at the wheel4 ,if the drivers realized the slight things upon which their fate hangs at such a time there would be more care4 ,ninety per cent4 of all the accidents to automobiles are the result of sheer carelessness of the drivers2 nine per cent4 are from the carelessness of some other driver2 only about one per cent4 can be set down to breaks of parts1 blow-outs1 or other things not to be prevented by ordinary precautions4 ,on a slight and straight hill it is all right to go down on high speed1 simply shutting off the ignition so that the engine will act as a brake1 the foot brake being used if necessary2 but on a steep hill it is far wiser to shift into second-speed or even first-speed gear before attempting to descend4 ,the engine will exert a powerful braking force in low-speed gear4 ,besides1 the running and emergency brakes are to be used alternately1 so that on a long hill the brake linings will not be burned up4 ,of course the clutch must be left engaged to secure the braking effect of the engine4 ,it is a mighty bad thing to start down a hill in high gear and then1 half way down1 find that brakes will not hold1 or that something has gone wrong suddenly4 ,long and steep hills rarely are wide or smooth2 there are ditches and humps and rocks1 sometimes1 and narrow places where there is scarce room for two cars to pass1 and less than perfect control of the car is perilous4 8,better be safe than sorry0 is a homely old saw1 but it is pertinent4 ,another thing is that the hill speedster is one of the greatest menaces to other drivers so far found4 ,if one cares not for his own car or neck1 at least he should have a care for the others on the hill2 and whether it is on the ascent or descent the speedster endangers every one else going in either direction at the same time1 except perhaps the fellow who is following him at a safe pace4 ,it is no comfort to know that the mortality is highest among the speed fiends of motordom2 occasionally they raise the mortality figure of the drivers who practice safety first4 ,,chapter ,,xxxvi ,,keeping ,,the ,,car ,,sleek ,of course1 if one does not care for appearances1 and has no pride in the bright and shiny varnish of the body and in the absence of rustiness of the top1 and thinks because the engine is under the hood no one will see that it has been neglected1 this section will not particularly interest the reader4 ,but1 on the other hand1 if these things count1 and the owner understands that true economy consists in keeping not only the running parts in condition1 but everything else at the top notch of perfection1 then he will heed the advice herein4 ,just because it does not show to the passer-by1 many think that the appearance of the engine does not count2 that it is not essential that it be kept free of oil1 grease1 dust1 and corrosion of iron and brass4 ,get this idea out of the head instanter4 ,it is false and has much to do with breakdown and wear-out of the motor4 ,the cleaner it is kept the longer will it run satisfactorily1 both as to troubles and to length of life4 ,one may well err on the side of cleanliness rather than be somewhat slovenly4 ,the motor ought to be cleaned off on the outside after any lengthy trip1 or after any run when roads are dusty1 or oily1 or sandy4 ,one may be as particular as possible1 yet there will be some oil or grease on the motor exterior4 ,probably that which lodges upon the cylinders will1 if there is much hill climbing to heat the motor unduly1 make itself visible and smellable--visible in a thin streak of smoke coming from the hood1 and smellable to the point of offensiveness when that streak of smoke strikes the olfactory nerves4 ,but in most instances it will remain upon the engine1 gradually becoming a gum from the drying up of the substance and the accretion of dust from the road4 ,the longer it remains the harder it is to remove it2 hence when the work is done in the garage every time the car comes in1 it will take but a few minutes and slight labor2 while if allowed to accumulate1 it may mean hours' work to get rid of the hard deposit4 ,sufficient instruction has been given as to the care of the working parts of the motor1 so that only the exterior need be considered at this time4 ,begin at the top4 ,first of all see that the wire terminals at the spark plugs are free from corrosion and grease4 ,they should be dry and clean if they are to transmit the current to the plugs4 ,usually the wires are carried in a tube to protect them from heat and grease1 but not always4 ,in any event1 trace along the wires to see that oil or grease is not present upon them4 ,either will rot the rubber insulation and cause a leak which will affect the ignition4 ,examine all the terminals under the hood for the same purpose1 and every once in a while disconnect the wires one by one and scrape the terminals bright1 also the contact point where terminal is fastened4 ,replace the wires one by one as you clean them so they will not become disarranged4 ,see also that there is no oil1 grease1 or dirt on the spark plugs1 for it might form a sufficient path for current to practically short-circuit the plug4 ,wipe off the top of the cylinders and blow out accumulations of dust from any recesses where it has collected4 ,if there is thickened or gummy oil upon the metal1 which will not wipe off readily1 saturate the waste or cloth in gasoline at the carburetor drip cock1 and it will loosen up quickly4 ,gasoline is more convenient1 but kerosene will do the work better1 leaving a surface less likely to rust4 ,in the same way clean the exterior of all the parts of the motor and everything attached to it4 ,where the brass shows corrosion1 use a cleaning compound to remove it4 ,brass may be kept from corroding in wet weather by coating it with whiting4 ,several good compounds also are sold for this purpose4 ,bright iron parts may be kept from rusting by wiping them with a rag dampened with a thin oil1 which should be wiped off regularly1 and there never should be enough to show4 ,the fan1 fan belt1 pulleys1 gear casings1 and other parts at the front end collect much dust and should be kept clean4 ,the air holes through the radiator1 also1 must be kept free of dust1 oil1 and asphalt from oiled roads4 ,in fact every part under the hood needs frequent cleaning4 ,there are some parts of the chassis and undergear which will not be readily reached by the hose and water when cleaning the body2 therefore they should first be rubbed off and cleaned of dirt1 grease1 and accumulations of asphalt from oiled roads1 or mud4 ,do this while the space under the car is dry1 and if it is done regularly it will not be difficult to keep this part of the car in order4 ,the parts of the various rods and rocker shafts1 and particularly near the bearings1 should be kept clean4 ,if one will make a 8creeper0 from which to work when getting under the car1 it will remove most of the objections which drivers have to 8getting under40 ,take a board of twelve inches wide and five feet long and mount casters which move freely under it4 ,at one end place an inclined head or shoulder rest a foot long and with four or five inches' rise4 ,then cover the upper side with carpet1 padded to make it comfortable4 ,lying down upon this1 one may move about under the car in ease and get at all the mechanism readily4 ,it is not only good for cleaning time1 but when inspecting or oiling1 or tightening up the bolts and nuts and bearings which may be reached only from beneath the car4 ,it also keeps one off a wet floor or ground4 ,next take a hose1 if one be available1 and play it freely all over the body and running gear1 fenders1 mud guards1 wheels1 with care1 of course1 that the upholstery be not sprinkled too much4 ,do a thorough job with the hose but do not use a powerful stream upon the highly polished surfaces4 ,it will not only take off dust but loosen up mud1 and the force of the spray will take off fresh accumulations of asphalt from mud guards and chassis4 ,then with the hose playing ahead1 use a soft sponge to go over all the parts to remove any remaining dirt and rinse down with water alone4 ,next1 with cloth and chamois dry the woodwork and other painted surfaces until they shine4 ,where mud and asphalt are dried and refractory1 other means must be taken to remove them before rinsing and drying4 ,mud may be softened by holding a saturated sponge over it for a few moments4 ,if the mud be mixed with oil or grease so that water does not soften it1 kerosene will1 and it does not take much of it4 ,kerosene also will soften the asphalt which clings to the car4 ,grease and oil also yield to kerosene1 which should be wiped off and the painted parts polished with a cloth dampened with linseed oil4 ,naturally this should be wiped off completely so that it would not become a dust catcher4 ,do not use soap on the highly polished surfaces of the body4 ,most soaps have free alkali--lye--in their composition1 and while this makes them cut dirt and grease fast1 it injures the varnished surface1 in a short time wearing off the gloss4 ,washing is the better done when the hose only is used4 ,in the country1 where a hose is not available1 the washing will be slower1 since the water in a pail must be renewed frequently and the sponge rinsed practically every stroke to rid it of grit4 ,where it is possible to run a line from tank to the garage1 or1 if there is no tank1 from an elevated barrel1 which can be filled with a force pump1 it should be done4 ,there are various preparations sold for renewing the surface of auto bodies after it begins to dull4 ,good gloss should last a year with care1 especially if it be wiped over occasionally with a soft cloth dampened with a mixture of linseed oil and a little high-grade carriage varnish--a half pint to the gallon of oil4 ,as there is a wide variation in both ingredients1 if the mixture seems sticky when rubbed between the fingers or when applied to the car surface1 add considerably more oil1 as it is not intended as a new covering for the paint1 but to freshen up the varnish4 ,mohair tops need to be dusted with a moist sponge1 using also soapsuds if spotted with oil or grease4 ,leather and its imitations may be kept in good condition if oiled occasionally or treated with one of the good preparations sold4 ,the top should be dried before folding down4 ,after driving through a shower let the top stay up until sun and wind have dried it thoroughly4 ,care in folding will lengthen the life of the top4 ,freedom from cracks and creases will mean a dry top1 to insure which is worth any amount of trouble4 ,keeping the car covered when in the garage pays1 for dust will blow in and settle over all parts4 ,the upholstery also may be protected by slip covers1 which should be kept on during dusty trips1 and be washed when dirty4 ,leather cushions should be freshened the same as the top4 ,the man who has cared for a fine carriage will know what to do with similar parts of the automobile2 others should learn how to care for them1 and understand that varnished and polished surfaces will become dulled if the car is stored in a stable1 or adjacent to stable or barnyard4 ,if a barn is converted into a garage1 it should be thoroughly renovated and fitted with a cement floor sloping to the center1 with a drain leading outside1 so that the car may be washed there and the water run off through the drain4 ,in fact the owner of a car may find something to do all the time for convenience and comfort4 ,if he arranges things conveniently he will not only save time but will be able to do better work1 and will have the satisfaction of knowing that he is keeping down expense and getting the most out of his machine for the expenditure4 ,,chapter ,,xxxvii ,,some ,,things ,a ,,tourist ,,should ,,know ,these are the days of the tour and to thousands more each year it means a trip by automobile to lake or mountain1 or the more pretentious visit to the old home1 or to some new1 and to the tourist1 undiscovered1 country4 ,the tourist who goes by auto fully prepared for the emergencies which may arise1 unhampered by railway schedule1 and who will take time to enjoy himself1 will get untold pleasure out of the trip4 ,the speedster knows nothing of the pleasure of touring1 and the fellow who is always worrying lest he shall not make ,squedunk ,corners in time to eat and get to ,possum ,crossing for the night will be watching the road map and the clock on the dash so closely that the beauties nature has lavishly scattered about will be lost upon him1 and his memory of the trip will be a procession of eating and sleeping houses1 with trouble between them all4 ,the man who is starting out for the tour with a new car1 which has been tried out enough to be sure that it is in condition1 need only know that he has with him the things most likely to be needed for an emergency1 but if the car has been in service for several months or more1 he ought to give it a 8once over0 at least before starting4 ,one of the things to attend to is refilling the gear cases4 ,both the transmission and differential cases should be drained of all oil and washed out carefully with kerosene4 ,at the same time the gears should be examined closely to see if they are in good shape4 ,one may find one or two teeth chipped1 though not broken enough to make the condition known by sound4 ,it probably was too hard originally and the break is not the fault of the driver1 but it should be replaced1 for it is likely to give trouble at any time4 ,when cleaned1 the cases should be refilled with the proper amount of new lubricant1 but not too much1 because then it will work out and scatter over the car and probably get on the brake drums and make them slip4 ,the crank case of the engine should be drained and cleaned out with kerosene and fresh oil be put in4 ,if the oiling system is working properly1 it is best to let it alone and see that it is kept filled with the proper quality of lubricant while on the road4 ,of course the grease cups should be filled and all points which are lubricated by oil from a squirt can should be taken care of4 ,the wheel bearings all should be examined to determine their condition and to see that they are properly lubricated4 ,if very dirty they should be cleaned and fresh grease be applied4 ,it is well to carry an extra gallon of engine oil in the car1 also a small can of grease4 ,garages are plenty1 but sometimes an accident occurs which causes a loss of the main supply of oil and makes it impossible to drive even a mile without an extra supply4 ,likewise if the gasoline tank is not provided with an emergency tank or chamber1 an extra gallon of gasoline should be carried4 ,convenient emergency tanks for this purpose may be purchased at any accessory store4 ,both sets of brakes should be carefully examined to see that the lining is not worn too thin and that the different pins and clevises of the brake linkage are not worn so as to be weak and likely to give away in touring under extraordinary pressure4 ,often in touring one comes upon unexpected grades1 some of them miles long1 and the tourist should be prepared for prolonged and extraordinary service4 ,illustration3 ,,brake ,,levers ,,and ,,linkage1 ,,showing ,,equalizing ,,rod ,,and ,,springs ,where prolonged service is required it should be possible to use the two sets of brakes alternately4 ,in this connection it is well to keep in mind that on long grades considerable braking may be done by cutting off the ignition and allowing the car to turn the engine over in high or intermediate gear4 ,keeping the car down to a rather low speed in this manner will also be found to save burning up the brake linings4 ,it is of the utmost necessity to keep the brake drums free from oil4 ,when the car is driven out into the country the crown of the road tilts the car over1 so that if there is too much oil in the differential case it will work through the axle housing to the brake drum on the right side4 ,of course this is taken care of largely as previously advised1 by winding felt around the axle1 or by not having too much lubricant in the differential1 although enough is very necessary4 ,if the engine shows any tendency to knock on the hill it would be well to have the carbon removed before starting4 ,it is very disagreeable to have to take a hill on second speed that could be taken on high if the throttle could be kept open without causing knocking4 ,trips may be practically spoiled by the fact that the engine is full of carbon and does not have sufficient power to negotiate the hills4 ,of course the car should be gone over systematically to see that all nuts are tight and properly supplied with cotter pins or lock washers4 ,all parts should be scrutinized carefully to see that there are no cracked or badly worn parts likely to give out under the severe strain of touring4 ,the compression of the engine should be tested and if found weak in any cylinder the valves should be ground in4 ,spark plugs should be made perfectly clean1 magneto interrupter points cleaned and adjusted to gauge and high-tension distributor cleaned out1 and the battery should be tested to make sure it is in normal condition4 ,if almost discharged1 a charge should be given it from some external source4 ,the commutators of the generator and starting motor should be examined and if badly scored they will need to be trued up4 ,if the storage battery is depended upon entirely for ignition1 a set of dry cells should be carried so that in case of entire failure of the storage battery1 ignition and lights may be had for a short time1 even though the engine has to be cranked by hand4 ,some annoyance may be saved by examining the springs to see if there is a cracked leaf to be replaced4 ,spring repair attachments are sold1 but it depends upon the ingenuity of the individual whether repairs of this sort can be made upon the road4 ,in addition to tools and the other things previously recommended to be carried1 the tourist should take at least one set of electric bulbs for the car4 ,spark plugs may be cleaned with very little trouble1 but it is handier to carry two or three extra ones for quick exchange1 cleaning the ones removed at the end of the day1 or at the noon stop4 ,one or two extra tires carried inflated and on the rims are usual1 and it is wise to have two or three extra inner tubes4 ,if one does have tire trouble it seems to come in bunches and it is just as well to be prepared for the worst4 ,the tourist who is traveling very far from garages should carry also patches and cement4 ,of course each car will carry a real fire extinguisher and a tow rope4 ,if you do not need to be towed out of a mud hole yourself someone else will4 ,be prepared4 ,most drivers like to have along a spool of annealed wire1 a pair of side-cutting pliers1 and a roll of tire tape4 ,it is really wonderful what an ingenious man can do with these things4 ,the tools to be carried should be sufficient to do ordinary road repairs and the outfit suggested in a previous chapter is recommended4 ,as previously stated1 it is not the man who rushes around and plans maximum distances for each day's run who gets the most out of the tour2 he makes work out of pleasure keeping up with a schedule4 ,it is better to allow more time for the runs1 and then if one gets ahead of schedule to lay off a half day and see the sights and keep the car in condition4 ,,chapter ,,xxxviii ,,little ,,knocks ,,are ,,hardly ,,boosts ,one of the worst things with which the autoist has to contend mechanically is the accumulation of carbon in the cylinders1 clogging the piston rings1 filling and short-circuiting the spark plugs and causing a knock which is not only annoying1 but productive of trouble sooner or later4 ,there are various reasons for the accumulation of carbon1 such as poor gas1 defective ignition1 insufficient pressure1 but few have assigned as a cause of carbon trouble and knocking a too high cylinder compression4 ,too high compression occasions much of the knock ordinarily assigned to other causes4 ,engines are designed with a certain size combustion chamber1 and with a chamber of that size to get a certain compression in pounds per square inch4 ,the nearer we get to the point of pre-ignition without actually reaching pre-ignition1 the more efficiently will the engine operate4 ,pre-ignition1 of course1 would make a knock4 ,a good many manufacturers make the compression figure just as high as they dare1 with the result that1 when the carbon forms1 the size of the combustion chamber is reduced and the pressure is raised to such a degree that it will cause pre-ignition and its resultant knock4 ,when a manufacturer tells the buyer that his engine is proof against carbon and the knocking occasioned thereby1 he probably is trying to offset more serious 8knocks0 the car is receiving from disgruntled users4 ,this is an instance which illustrates the point3 ,a friend of mine has a four-cylinder engine in one of the later models of a well-known car of high speed and power4 ,on several occasions we have been driving in and near the city and1 after about #abe miles1 we seemed always to have trouble with knocking in climbing hills4 ,on one trip my friend had the carbon burned out carefully before starting4 ,about the time we reached the end of the trip the engine began to knock on the hills from the collection of carbon4 ,on our return he had the carbon burned out again and the knock ceased4 ,i advised him to raise the cylinders one-fourth of an inch by a fiber gasket under each cylinder casting1 thus increasing the size of the combustion chamber and naturally lessening the compression4 ,he also had to adjust the water connection and raise the valve push rods1 and a few things of that sort4 ,he ran the car upwards of #bjjj miles after that before it began to show any signs of knocking under severe conditions1 indicating that the cylinders needed to have the carbon removed4 ,where the knock is caused in this way by a slight compression increase1 it indicates that the manufacturer has put the pressure as high as the engine will stand1 and the only way to cure it is by raising the cylinders or lowering the pistons4 ,the gasket is the simpler method4 ,this trouble was very obvious in one model of car used for road instruction at the ,automobile ,school4 ,no amount of ordinary adjustment and cleaning out of the carbon would keep the car from knocking after very short service4 ,it was taken to the service station several times and returned with the remark that it would 8be all right now40 ,it was not all right4 ,finally the request was made to let the car remain at the station several days and the experts would see what could be done4 ,when it was returned the trouble was cured4 ,but when the expert was asked what had been done he replied3 8,nothing much40 ,he admitted cleaning out the carbon and adjusting the carburetor4 ,but a still hunt was made for the corrective cause and it was discovered that fiber gaskets had been put under the cylinders4 ,they were camouflaged with enamel to conceal their presence1 their existence was denied1 and they were like the man without a country1 8unhonored and unsung10 but they did the trick1 and until the car was retired because of old age and decrepitude the gaskets stood between the engine and the knock4 ,perhaps if that agent picks up this volume one day he will be surprised to find that his subterfuge was discovered4 ,it may have been his little secret4 ,the owner who learns this remedy for knocking due to carbon and high compression will be saved a lot of worry and be enabled to cure the engine's ills1 or have it done at the shop4 ,but take it from the writer that carbon accumulation will cause any of the high compression engines to knock1 and the only way to cure it is to lessen the compression or continually clean out carbon4 ,also the only simple way to lower the compression is to raise the cylinder with a fiber gasket4 ,,chapter ,,xxxix ,,some ,,other ,,causes ,,of ,,knocking ,the motorist must not imagine that all knocks come from too great compression1 however1 for there are 8fifty-seven other varieties0 of knock to be taken into consideration4 ,he must not take it for granted that the cylinders are filling up with carbon if the engine starts knocking while out on the road1 nor is it a foregone conclusion that the main bearings are loose4 ,the knock may be from a totally different source4 ,in fact there are so many different kinds of knocks that even an expert cannot always tell just where one comes from without totally dis-assembling the engine4 ,even then it sometimes puzzles him a lot by its elusiveness4 ,most engines have a knock of some sort which annoys the driver1 which might vary from a barely perceptible click to a blow that may be heard by persons standing on the sidewalk4 ,a great many of the knocks do not do any harm2 that is1 they are not causing any damage to the engine parts2 but there are some knocks which require immediate attention to prevent the demolition of the engine or seriously damaging it4 ,some of these are loose connecting-rod bearing2 cylinder loose on its base2 lack of lubrication and consequent overheating2 and a broken revolving or reciprocating member1 which might tear things up if allowed to run4 ,the spark advanced too far puts an excessive strain on the crank shaft1 and a short circuit in the ignition does the same4 ,on the other hand there is no immediate danger if there is a piston slap1 though pretty noisy2 nor is there when the oil pump gives a thump or loud click at the valve seating4 ,but on general principles when there is a knock its cause should be ascertained at once and expert advice be obtained as to whether it is dangerous4 ,if so1 it must be fixed before running further4 ,if it is only a minor knock the repair can be left to a more convenient time4 ,so many of the knocks are only a matter of annoyance2 that is1 they do no more harm than to cause the driver unnecessary nerve jars and to spoil the pleasure of riding4 ,but he will bother the various garage men and everybody else he can get to listen and then will not accept the assurance that the knock is not doing the car any harm4 ,as a matter of fact there are knocks peculiar to certain makes of engines that the manufacturers have not seen fit to eliminate because they are not harmful4 ,among these is the so-called 8gas knock40 ,now the writers do not know what a 8gas knock0 is1 and doubt if anybody else does4 ,but it is a common term for the kind of a knock which cannot be located anywhere and it is laid to some action of the gas4 ,sometimes the knocks are hard to locate4 ,one of the school cars needed a new cam-shaft gear to replace a worn one which produced a knock4 ,it was put on1 but when the engine was started it was found that there was a worse knock than before4 ,it took a long time to find that it was the new gear4 ,it fitted very tight on the shaft and had to be forced on4 ,without being noticeable the forcing had cracked the hub1 the crack extending through the rim1 so that two of the teeth were out of true and had spread enough to pound when that portion of the gear came into mesh4 ,another knock difficult to locate is caused by sticking exhaust valves4 ,one of the valve stems has been oiled1 say1 and this has been allowed to burn to a nice sticky paste4 ,now1 when the push rod opens the valve and starts down the valve does not follow closely4 ,the spring brings it down1 of course1 but more slowly than it should1 because of the sticky stem1 and when the stem and push rod meet there is a thump4 ,it is ordinarily said that a lean mixture or an over advanced spark will cause knocking4 ,as a matter of fact they do not do anything of the kind2 but it is true that these things bring to our notice other faults1 such as a worn piston or cylinder wall and consequent side slap1 or they magnify some other worn part so that it becomes audible4 ,as a matter of fact it is possible to advance the spark so far that it will try to reverse the engine and not have a particle of knock4 ,and it is possible to have a mixture so lean that it will hardly run the engine yet have no knock2 but if there is something else wrong it will bring that out4 ,some of the causes of knocking discovered at the school have been collated and are given for the instruction of the novice3 ,mechanical ,looseness1 ,due to ,improper ,adjustment1 or ,wear3 ,loose connecting-rod bearing1 crank-pin end4 ,crank-pin bearing out of round4 ,main bearings of crank shaft loose4 ,bearings too tight4 ,wrist pin loose in piston4 ,wrist pin loose in upper end of connecting rod4 ,wrist pin not in line with crank shaft1 causing side slap4 ,piston ring loose in slot or broken4 ,cam follower guide won4 ,cam loose on shaft4 ,worn cams 7,flat spot74 ,fly-wheel loose on crank shaft 7old models with keyed-on wheel74 ,fly-wheel out of balance4 ,worn or broken timing-gear teeth4 ,cylinder loose at its base4 ,timing gears loose on shaft4 ,engine loose from frame4 ,piston too small for cylinder1 causing side slap4 ,poor push-rod adjustment--gap too great4 ,exhaust or inlet valve sticking in guide4 ,spark plug touching valve4 ,magneto coupling loose4 ,fan-belt coupling striking pulley4 ,fan blades striking something4 ,worn cylinder1 causing side slap4 ,bent crank shaft4 ,faulty ,ignition3 ,spark advanced too far4 ,spark too late1 causing overheating4 ,short circuits in ignition system causing irregular spark4 ,spark-plug points constructed wrong1 causing them to overheat4 ,spark plug in poor position4 ,wrong timing of ignition system2 too early1 too late1 or wrong order4 ,dirty distributor1 misdirecting the current4 ,faulty ,carburetion3 ,pre-ignition1 due to excessive carbon deposits4 ,rich mixture1 causing overheating4 ,lean mixture1 in conjunction with worn parts4 ,faulty ,lubrication3 ,lack of oil4 ,lubricants of poor quality4 ,excess of oil causing carbon deposit4 ,overheating of ,engine3 ,fan not working4 ,pump parts not revolving4 ,radiator clogged4 ,pipe lines clogged4 ,rubber hose defective inside1 blocking flow of water4 ,ignition timed too late4 ,faulty ,compression3 ,engine designed with too high compression1 causing pre-ignition when throttle is wide open4 99 99 99 99 99 ,there are1 of course1 many other causes which contribute to the little noises which accompany the car along the road1 but the novice will find here the most common ones1 and by a process of elimination may arrive at his particular bane2 to find it naturally suggests the cure4 ,therefore1 stop that knocking4 ,,chapter ,,xl ,,chassis ,,knocks ,does your car chatter8 ,does it talk to you and protest against running over holes and bumps in the road8 ,if it does1 it is a sign to which you should pay attention1 a hint that you should do away with the knocks and clicks and chattering which annoy you and everybody else within hearing as you run along4 ,that is1 if you can find them1 for there are some noises so obscure as to defy detection even by the expert4 ,such was the car which developed a sharp click whenever it was started forward or backward4 ,it ran quite a long time before it was possible to discover just what and where it was4 ,it was somewhere in the back1 but so hidden as to defy detection4 ,the rear axle was of the floating type1 the construction in which the driving shaft is connected to the hub of the wheel by a number of flutings on the shaft1 into which corresponding projections of the flange fitted4 ,these had become worn and allowed sufficient play to cause a noise4 ,by walking alongside of the rear wheel while the car was being started and stopped1 it was decided that the sound came from the hub of the wheel4 ,the hub cap was removed and by placing the finger on the hub flange and end of shaft at the same time the play was detected by the sense of feeling1 though it was hardly visible to the eye4 ,the trouble was overcome by having the shaft welded to the flange4 ,a few days later the owner happened to be at the agency and told what he had found4 8,so glad you came10 was the response1 8for we have been looking for the same kind of a click a long time ourselves and the service-station mechanics have not been able to locate it4 ,they thought it was in the brake1 but upon examination could see no reason for a click40 ,there have been cases where the wheel was keyed on1 and where the keys had acquired sufficient play to cause a continuous knocking1 especially when the machine was being driven at low speed4 ,this sort of knocking is more likely to occur with the four-cylinder1 slow-speed engine than with the high-speed1 many-cylindered type4 ,a mysterious knock may sometimes be traced to the torque rod1 when it becomes loose at the forward end1 or to worn torque-tube bearings1 and in some cases the bolts fastening the torque rods to the rear axle become loosened1 or worn1 causing a knock1 especially when going over bumps or dropping into holes4 ,the brake rods become worn and set up a continuous clattering on rough roads and this noise is accentuated if the tires are kept inflated at too high a pressure4 ,as a matter of fact the car owner has the choice between the greatest life for his tires and accompanying rattles and discomforts1 and riding at a sufficiently low pressure to subdue these noises and make life in a car worth living2 of course there will be an attendant higher wear of tires4 ,where the wear cannot be taken up by adjustments or using new bolts or pins1 often the rattle may be ended by wiring a spiral spring to the frame and rattling part4 ,this keeps it taut4 ,worn spring-shackle bolts will not ordinarily cause knocking or rattling1 but when going over bumps or holes the rebound of the body is sufficient to make the looseness audible4 ,it can be overcome by having a new bolt put in1 and prevented by keeping the bolts well lubricated4 ,worn steering-knuckle pins and tie-rod bolts will sometimes be found responsible for knocks and rattles in the front end of the car4 ,the remedy is obvious and the location of the noise is not so hard to find4 ,in addition to these we have rattles due to tools being thrown loosely into the tool box1 and sometimes from the body bolts having become loosened4 ,the lamps occasionally jolt loose and the license-plate bracket is sometimes so loose that it is audible as well as visible4 ,there are other knocks due to broken gear teeth and other broken parts1 and sometimes these broken teeth1 loose nuts1 bolts1 or pins in gear or differential case become wedged between the gear teeth and cause a knocking that is not hard to locate1 albeit rather expensive to repair4 ,and then there are the knocks and rattles from the hundred or more accessories which are attached to the chassis of many cars and which sooner or later develop defects and noise4 ,the up-to-date1 well-designed car in perfect shape is practically noiseless1 and if a knock or rattle develops it indicates that something is worn or out of adjustment1 and needs attention4 ,the owner who takes care to have all parts properly lubricated and kept tight need fear none of these annoyances1 and proper attention means lack of annoyance when out touring1 while slovenly habits will advertise themselves to everyone along the road4 ,,chapter ,,xli ,,keeping ,,down ,,the ,,auto ,,upkeep ,if the general run of auto owners and chauffeurs do not mend their ways city streets will be paved with a mixture of asphalt and auto parts and country roads will be lucrative fields for the junkman4 ,anyone who doubts this need but inspect the pavement at busy corners and see what a collection of junk is strewn along1 particularly at the places where many cars make sudden stops4 ,to illustrate3 ,the other day a car stopped and the driver pondered what was the matter that the engine had no power4 ,failing to get a solution1 as he was near a garage1 he called for a mechanic to look it over4 8,a few minutes ago10 he said1 8the engine had so much power ,i couldn't stop it when ,i wanted to2 now ,i can't make it pull at all40 8,open your throttle10 the mechanic said4 8,the throttle is open10 was the response4 8,oh1 ,i see10 said the workman1 and he disappeared into the garage4 ,in a few minutes he reappeared with a small bolt and proceeded to connect the throttle linkage so that the lever and accelerator pedal would open the throttle when moved4 ,what had happened was that through neglect the bolt had worked loose and dropped out so that the lever did not move the throttle arm1 and advancing the lever had no effect4 ,this bolt probably is one of those to be found imbedded in the pavement somewhere about the city4 ,an examination of the pavement of any of the automobile thoroughfares will reveal nearly all the fifty-seven varieties of auto accessory parts in the asphalt4 ,a great many of the bits of metal found there will be broken skid-chain links1 but the writer counted twenty-six different species of other lost parts in crossing ,fifty-seventh ,street at ,eighth ,avenue1 ,new ,york ,city4 ,while counting them a driver came along and was unable to stop his car properly--the brake did not work and he had to use the emergency brake after nearly running over a pedestrian4 ,he got out and found that a pin was gone in the brake linkage4 ,a spring cotter had worked out or sheared off and the pin had rattled loose and dropped out4 ,many of the stray parts are of a similar nature2 nuts1 bolts1 washers1 screws1 cotter pins and the like which have worked loose because of neglect4 ,their absence will doubtless account for a good many of the rattles and squeaks which their former owner is now complaining of1 and to replace which he will pay the garage man several times their value4 ,the average instruction book given with a car will advise the owner to go over the car every so often and tighten up the bolts and nuts as a precautionary measure1 but usually no attention is paid to this until the car stops or develops some unusual sound4 ,then a mechanic is called in and it takes him a couple of hours to find the cause of the trouble1 while the owner stands around cursing the maker of the car4 ,probably a good many of these parts along the road are due to careless mechanics who drop small parts in the dust pan and will not take the trouble to fish them out1 or leave them on the running board and after a time they jar off to the roadway2 but it shows there is a lot of carelessness among drivers when they even lose number plates and hub caps4 ,a pair of brass hub caps picked up along the road and which have been turned into ash trays are among the writer's trophies4 ,the loss of the hub caps allows grit to get into the bearings and to prevent this as far as possible by making the driver take care of them1 the prices of extra caps have been made entirely out of proportion to their real value by some manufacturers4 ,some of the lost parts are of such shape that they would very readily puncture a tire1 so that they are not only a loss to the owner of the car from which they dropped1 but to the fellow who follows and picks them up for a punctured tire4 ,the writer has seen the pin holding in place the tie rod1 which keeps the wheels in alignment1 drop out1 and in another case1 hunting a knock1 found the cylinder loose on the base because the nuts had been without lock washers1 or cotter pins1 and had worked loose4 ,they might in time have worked off entirely and there would have been a 8cylinder missing40 ,he has also seen the entire engine loose on the frame so that it was doing a fox trot while running4 ,drivers should keep watch of the non-skid chains1 for they wear and drop cross links often4 ,the driver who wishes to avoid personal annoyance and annoyance to everybody else within hearing distance1 will take pains to see that the cross links are never so loose that they hit the mud guards1 nor have broken ends which hit4 ,a spool of wire will enable one to fasten broken or loose cross links to the side chains and repair links can be put in when the garage is reached4 ,the owner should become well acquainted with his car1 so that he knows where the different bolts and nuts are4 ,many will tighten up all they know about1 but do not bend their backs to get underneath where they can see the dust-pan bolts and brake-linkage bolts4 ,if the owner knows where these parts are he should make it his business to see that every bolt and pin is locked with a lock washer or cotter pin4 ,then he should go over them at least once a month and tighten them up4 ,he may be sure he will pay several times their value and a mechanic's time if they are lost1 so that economy is involved as well as the inconvenience of having the car stopped on the road4 ,,chapter ,,xlii ,,hunting ,,trouble ,ordinarily the fellow who starts to hunt trouble finds it quicker than he expected1 but not so with the automobilist2 when he starts to hunt trouble--in the car--it seems to be a very demon for eluding the searcher4 ,trouble will hide in a tiny piece of carbon lodged under a valve or between spark-plug points1 in a wire that has jarred loose1 in an interrupter point1 a piston ring1 a gas pipe--oh1 in the most secret and insignificant place--in size--and just defy one to ferret out the demon4 ,one learns that the insignificant things are really the most important at times4 ,yet most troubles incident to the operation of a motor car may be located very quickly if one will but go after them in a systematic way1 and not wander aimlessly about the engine and other parts4 ,the hardest thing a driver has to do when the engine stops or acts up is to divest himself of the idea that he knows just what the trouble is4 ,he is sure he can fix it in a minute and he putters around a long time before he makes up his mind that it is something else and it takes a lot of time to prove that to some persons4 ,the best way to go about it is to start without preconceived ideas as to what the trouble may be1 and follow a system1 which is really a process of elimination4 ,remember that to start a gasoline engine three things are necessary--gasoline1 compression1 and a spark at the right time1 and that to keep it running it is necessary to have water for cooling1 unless it be an air-cooled engine1 and oil for lubrication4 ,if the engine stops on the road and pressing the starter pedal fails to start it1 or if one or two cylinders miss fire1 the first thing to do is to get the crank out of the tool kit and crank over the engine4 ,if1 with the gears in neutral1 the engine cranks over hard1 it indicates a lack of lubricating oil1 or a lack of water1 which has allowed the engine to reach a temperature where the lubricant fails to perform its work4 ,if the engine turns over fairly easy1 it is not necessary to look for oil or water trouble4 ,the next test is for compression4 ,if the driver is not experienced and is unable to tell simply by the resistance to the starting crank whether each cylinder has compression1 he should open all petcocks except on one cylinder and turn the crank two revolutions1 noting if there is a resistance for one-quarter of a revolution in the two complete turns4 ,compression occurs only on one stroke of the piston in the four-stroke cycle4 ,each cylinder should be tested in a similar manner1 opening all petcocks except on the cylinder being tested2 see if the compression is practically equal in all cylinders4 ,if one cylinder has very weak or no compression1 the trouble will be found usually in the exhaust valve4 ,first examine the push rod to see if there is clearance between it and the valve when the valve is supposed to be closed2 if there is1 the valve must be lifted out and the valve and seat inspected for carbon4 ,sometimes a piece of carbon will lodge on the valve seat and1 due to the hammering of the valve1 will become fastened to valve or seat4 ,for temporary repair generally it can be scraped off with a knife1 and the valve be ground in upon reaching the garage4 ,if the trouble is not in the exhaust valve1 it might be in the inlet valve4 ,in some types of engines the valve head may break off and get into the cylinder and when the piston comes up punch a hole in the piston head4 ,a petcock may be loose so that it will jar open sufficiently to affect the compression and so cause the cylinder to miss fire4 ,these troubles usually are confined to one cylinder and not to the whole engine4 ,the gasoline is the next to be inspected4 ,is there any gasoline in the bowl of the carburetor8 ,this may be determined by inspection1 opening the drain cock1 or 8tickling0--flooding4 ,if not1 examine the gasoline tank and see if there is a supply2 then see if the shut-off valve in the line leading to the carburetor is open2 if so1 drain the bowl of the carburetor to get rid of water or possible dirt4 ,to check the possible clogging of the gasoline pipe1 or carburetor screen1 notice if the bowl fills up again in a reasonable time4 ,do not adjust the carburetor4 ,if the engine has been running1 it is practically certain that the carburetor has not gotten out of adjustment4 ,inspect the intake pipe1 or manifold1 to see if it has been loosened by vibration4 ,if the engine still refuses to run1 put about a tablespoonful of gasoline in each cylinder and crank over the engine4 ,if this runs the engine for a few revolutions1 it indicates that the trouble is in the gasoline system and leaves but the spray nozzle1 which may have dirt lodged in it1 or the auxiliary air valve stuck1 as the remaining causes of trouble4 ,sometimes turning the needle valve a full turn and then turning it back exactly where it was will remove an obstruction at that point4 ,care should be taken in this to get the needle valve set as it originally was4 ,next inspect the ignition system4 ,the first thing to do is to loosen one of the wires from a spark plug and lay it so the bare end will be #a_/h inch from the base of the plug1 and have someone crank the engine by hand or with the starter4 ,if a spark does not occur1 go first to the interrupter points and short circuit the fixed point with a screw driver or other metal tool and see if there is a spark when the engine is cranked4 ,examine the points for dirt and see if they come together and open properly4 ,then examine the condition of the battery1 testing it4 ,examine the connectors on the battery1 which sometimes jar loose2 examine the wires leading to the interrupter and switch2 see if they are loose or broken or short-circuited4 ,this need not be done if a spark shows at the interrupter4 ,examine the distributor for moisture or dirt and see if the wires have become loose4 ,if a magneto only is used1 it is a simple matter to see if the interrupter points are making and breaking properly and if the distributor is clean and dry4 ,if these appear to be all right the trouble doubtless is in the armature winding or the condenser and cannot be repaired upon the road4 ,the wires to the plugs may be burned or short-circuited4 ,if1 with an apparently good spark1 you have compression and there is mixture passing into the cylinders1 the trouble may be in the spark plug4 ,to test a spark plug it is necessary to remove it4 ,widen the gap to #a_/h inch and lay the plug with wire attached upon the cylinder2 crank the engine and see if a spark jumps the gap4 ,widening the gap is necessary because the spark will not jump so far under compression as in the open air4 ,if it does not jump1 the plug may have a broken insulator porcelain or need cleaning4 ,if uncertain about the condition of the plug1 exchange it with one in another cylinder which is working properly4 ,an extra set of plugs should be carried to replace those which become dirty2 cleaning should be done in the garage4 ,this covers most of the usual troubles experienced on the road4 ,there are1 of course1 a great many other possibilities1 but if these tests1 carefully made1 do not disclose the cause of the trouble1 the novice had better send for a garage man4 ,if one or two cylinders miss fire1 the trouble is most likely to be caused through lack of compression or a short-circuited spark plug4 ,if the engine refuses to run1 the trouble is most likely to be due to lack of gasoline1 or failure of battery or magneto4 ,the general rule given herewith should be copied and pasted under the hood1 or carried in an envelope in the tool box for ready reference4 ,it may save much time and trouble when far from a garage4 ,carefully followed1 it should locate almost any trouble likely to be experienced1 and it is the locating1 not the fixing1 which takes time4 ,the chart on the next page was evolved out of the experience of years at the school and elsewhere4 ,it will be found a guide in hunting trouble3 ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- ,,the ,y4 ,m4 ,c4 ,a4 ,,general ,,trouble ,,chart ,above all remove nothing from the engine except as directed to test rules4 #a4 ,is tank full8 ,,are ,,pipes ,,clean8 ,needed ,,gasoline ,is ,carburetor clean8 ,if ,carburetor needs adjusting1 do it1 otherwise ,,leave to ,,it ,,alone4 ,does ,manifold leak8 ---------------------------------------- ------------- ,make #b4 ,to test--,open all petcocks except ,,compres- the one on cylinder to be tested2 an ,,sion crank engine1 noticing how strong the compression is in each cylinder1 ,engine in turn4 ---------------------------------------- ------------- ,run #c4 ,a4 ,test for a spark by taking the ,,ignition wire off any plug2 hold wire about #a_/h from plug2 crank engine with switch at on4 ,spark should jump to plug4 ---------------------------------------- ---- the ,b4 ,are the ,batteries run down8 ,does the vibrator 7if any7 buzz8 ,is right timer clean8 ,does timer rotor make good contact8 time ---------------------------------------- ---- ,c4 ,are any ,,wires loose1 burnt1 wet1 broken1 or short-circuited8 ,are spark plugs clean and are points #a_/ej apart8 ---------------------------------------- ---- ,d4 ,does ,,magneto armature revolve8 ,is safety spark gap clean4 ,are ,interrupter points clean and adjusted good contact8 ,is ,distributor clean8 ,is ,distributor ,rotor loose1 broken1 or making poor contact8 ---------------------------------------- ---- ,e4 ,check ,magneto wires as per 8,c40 ,,note--,loose wires and terminals1 neglected batteries1 and dirty gasoline cause much trouble4 ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- ,,to ,,keep ,a ,,gas ,,engine ,,running1 cooling and lubrication and a free exhaust are necessary4 ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- ,,chapter ,,xliii ,,more ,,trouble 8,you may have your self-starting #f-1 #h-1 or #ab-;cylinder cars if you want them1 but give me a four-cylinder motor with a crank on the front end for mine4 ,i'll get there ahead of you nine times out of ten40 ,this was the boast of a chauffeur of a big car1 who called at the school to inquire about some action of the motor which he did not understand4 ,his self-starter would not start4 ,a few simple tests narrowed the trouble to the self-starter control1 and it was found in the switch1 which had become dirty4 ,from repeated arcing the spring had become heated and lost its temper and finally no contact was made1 or so little that it would not supply current to start the starter4 ,which shows that it is a good thing to keep the temper1 even in a self-starter switch spring4 ,this is only one instance where added conveniences have brought new troubles to the motorist4 ,the self-starter has made it possible for many1 notably women1 to drive cars1 who before could not because they were not able to crank the engine4 ,adding cylinders has made smoother riding cars1 which drive easier as well4 ,the greater number of cylinders permits of a much quicker getaway in traffic4 ,it allows the motor to be run at a much lower speed without shifting the gears4 ,the motor has more power and the cars are better hill climbers2 there is a better distribution of the same amount of power4 ,but this has made more work and worry for the chauffeur and mechanic1 in that1 instead of having eight valves to grind in1 he may have as many as twenty-four1 and if the double-valve idea is carried far enough he might have as many as forty-eight4 ,in arranging the cylinders to procure a more even torque1 in some instances it has been found necessary to locate the valves in positions where they are not readily accessible4 ,in some types it is necessary almost to dismantle the engine1 and in others the valves may be reached to remove them only by removing the mudguard4 ,the self-starter1 while undoubtedly a great convenience1 has made it necessary to take care of the battery regularly1 and to keep the generator and motor commutators in condition2 has multiplied the wiring--has added hundreds of wires to the car--and its numerous regulators and other instruments are bound to need adjusting occasionally4 ,the extra care and the unusual troubles give the chauffeur a lot more to worry about4 ,the electric lights are undoubtedly brighter and better than kerosene or acetylene installation1 but they will give trouble occasionally and the average man understands more about filling a lamp with oil than he does about locating troubles in electric circuits4 ,then there are electric warmers1 electric heaters for passenger and driver1 electric cigar lighter1 limousine lights1 and electric horns1 which make additional wires until the traditional ,philadelphia lawyer would be totally inadequate to unravel the tangle4 ,suppose the ignition goes wrong and the battery seems to be all right and no cause of trouble can be found in the magneto and its wires1 and the chauffeur is in a pickle4 ,along comes ,mr4 ,man-,who-,knows and finds that the trouble is a short circuit in a lighting installation which impaired the ignition so that the cylinders would not fire1 or fired irregularly4 ,the old cars did not have generators and motors2 but the driver now must know how to sandpaper commutators and undercut the insulation of commutators1 which is an electrical engineer's job2 and he must be wise enough to know that these things are necessary because there is sparking at the commutator1 and the generator is not charging the battery as it should1 and the motor is not starting the engine as it ought4 ,this1 of course1 is because the brushes are overriding the commutators when the insulation is not undercut1 and the contact period is shortened1 and perhaps some of the contacts are skipped altogether because the high speed carries the brushes over without touching the commutator4 ,then1 he must know1 for instance1 that when the lights dim while the engine is going at low speed1 it is because the reverse current cut-out is out of adjustment and it requires a considerable discharge from the battery into the generator in order to make the cut-out operate1 when the lights will become bright again4 ,also1 he must know1 when the volt or ammeter needle becomes erratic1 sometimes showing a big charge or a little charge or no charge at all and then comes to normal again1 that he has a loose connection somewhere or the voltage regulator is not working properly4 ,when he presses the button of the electric horn and it does not sound1 but does work right after he has kicked or pounded it1 he ought to know why his rage started it working4 ,it was simply that the brush stuck upon a dead contact point of the commutator1 due to a dead armature coil1 and when he jammed the horn it moved the commutator until a live contact point was against the brush and the motor started to work4 ,there was a time when the manufacturer pointed with pride to the fact that there were no complications on his car4 ,there was nothing on the dash but the ignition switch1 with one wire leading to the magneto4 ,this followed a period when the dash had been filled up gradually with all sorts of devices4 ,ways were found to do away with them4 ,now there are hundreds of wires and pipes tacked on to the dash1 and the other side of the dash fronting the driver is filled with dials and gauges and switches almost without number4 ,these all add to the comfort of the motorist1 but in the same proportion they add to the worries of the driver4 ,he pays the price of the comforts in added worries4 ,owners also find that these added conveniences have given demand for added technical knowledge4 ,,chapter ,,xliv ,,don',t ,,take ,,things ,,for ,,granted ,don't take anything for granted with your car4 ,don't expect that there is water1 or gasoline1 or oil1 or current in the battery1 unless you have first inspected to find out4 ,inspect1 don't expect4 ,there are many bad habits in car practice1 and one of them is the evil of absent-mindedness in locating troubles in your car4 ,the man who spent half an hour looking for his glasses1 and then discovered they were on his nose1 should not be laughed at by anyone who runs a motor car4 ,it is only natural that this man should take it for granted they were not on his nose1 yet taking things for granted1 writes ,harold ,f4 ,blanchard1 in ,motor ,life1 is the greatest difficulty that the man who has to locate trouble has to face1 whether he is an amateur or an expert4 ,a number of cases are cited to prove the point4 ,everyone knows better than to crank the engine with the switch off1 yet recently we saw an average motorist waste twenty minutes this way4 ,the ignition switch was set in the center of the lighting switch handle4 ,therefore the absolute position of the ignition switch key varied according to what lights were on--hence the error2 yet this motorist looked all over his engine before he discovered his trouble4 ,probably being absent-minded had something to do with it2 he had just left his office for the day and was on his way home1 which demonstrates that the thoughtless or preoccupied man is much more likely to make unrightful assumptions than the alert man4 ,recently an old automobile mechanic was riding on an interurban car when the latter was held up by a motor car stalled across the tracks4 ,there was a big crowd around the machine trying frantically to push it out of the way4 ,for some reason the rear wheels were locked4 ,no amount of effort would budge the car and it was too large to lift and carry4 ,the mechanic got off and watched the proceedings4 ,he found that the gear lever was stuck in low gear1 and inquiry as to whether the trouble was due to jammed gears or some other serious defect could not be answered by the owner or any of his helpers4 ,he began to wonder where the trouble was while the others struggled1 but being old in the game1 the thought flashed across his mind3 8,take nothing for granted40 ,therefore the first question to determine was whether the whole difficulty might not be solved by pushing out the clutch4 ,this seemed too easy--too good to be true4 ,he hesitated to suggest it1 but the more he thought about it the more he became convinced1 and finally he mustered up enough courage to slip behind the wheel and command the resting crowd to push4 ,the car glided off1 to the astonishment of everyone4 ,it developed that the owner of the car had become excited when he stalled the engine on the crossing with the lever stuck in low4 ,in his feverish haste he tried to push the car off instead of shoving out his clutch and starting the motor1 and as the crowd collected they accepted the locked condition of the rear wheels as something which could not be remedied4 ,a motorist of ten years' experience bought a used car4 ,he took delivery of it late one rainy afternoon4 ,the former owner told him the car was complete1 the only thing missing being the key to the tool box1 which he promised to mail him early the next day4 ,the motorist got a couple of friends and started for a ride4 ,finally they stopped for dinner4 ,when they came out the owner put his foot on the starter pedal1 but it stuck4 ,he pulled up the floor boards but could not reach the mechanism4 ,the only way was to crawl under the car and this was out of the question because of the mud4 ,they looked for the crank under the rear-seat cushion and under the front-seat cushion1 but could not find it4 ,quite naturally they concluded it must be in the locked tool box or else the former owner had neglected to include this very important item4 ,they tried to locate a car of the same make in some neighboring garages without success4 ,they jacked the car up and tried to crank it by turning a rear wheel1 but the compression was too great1 so they tossed the jack into the tonneau and started in search of someone who would tow the car to start it4 ,eventually they got the engine going4 ,when they reached the garage the owner slipped his hand into the tonneau and he pulled out--not the jack--but the crank6 ,the worst is to come4 ,the next morning a mechanic who had been in the business long enough to know better than to make unwarranted assumptions was called in4 ,he pressed down the pedal without success1 then for no logical reason but simply because automobiles were second nature to him he pulled up and the pedal came4 ,then he pushed and the starter worked4 ,the owner was nonplussed4 ,later he admitted that he had thought of pulling up on the pedal but assumed it would do no good4 ,a few years ago1 when expanding clutches were more popular1 a motorist found one day that his clutch was slipping4 ,he had a vague idea that there must be some means for adjusting the clutch to cure this trouble1 but he looked in vain for a nut or a screw or a bolt which might do the trick4 ,true1 there was a small screw in the fly-wheel rim1 set almost flush with the edge of the rim and locked by a tiny spring wire which rested in the milled slot in the screw4 ,but he limped to a garage on low gear and held consultation with the entire force4 ,they examined the car carefully and decided there was no way to adjust the clutch4 ,they suggested a new lining or strips of metal under the old lining to swell it out so that it would grip4 ,the former was out of the question because of the time it would take1 so the latter was tried4 ,the makeshift worked all right for a few miles1 and then the clutch slipped more than ever4 ,in desperation he called the agent up on the long distance1 and was informed that his troubles would be over if he would give that innocent-looking screw a couple of turns4 ,it sounded like black magic1 but he went back and tried it1 and his troubles ended4 ,an owner who was very particular about having his car in the best of condition found that the compression in the first cylinder was weak although the valves had just been ground4 ,he removed the exhaust valve and found it in perfect condition4 ,then he took out the intake valve1 although he felt foolish while doing it4 ,it was in excellent shape but1 just to be on the safe side and because he did not know what else to do1 he ground it anyhow4 ,the trouble was no better4 ,neither did the difficulty seem to be due to too small a clearance between valve stems and push rods1 because the clearance was the prescribed amount on both intake and exhaust valves4 ,he concluded that it must be the rings4 ,either they were gummed or broken4 ,flooding the cylinder with kerosene did not improve the condition1 so a pint of very heavy oil was put in with the idea that this would temporarily stop any leaks between cylinder and piston1 but the compression was no better4 ,several times during the hunt he was tempted to increase the clearance between valve stems and push rods1 not for any sensible reason1 because the clearance was correct1 but simply in desperation4 ,it seemed about the only thing left to do--it was the only thing he had not tried4 ,but his 8common sense0 said no1 so he took his car to the service station4 ,the first thing they did was to increase the clearance on the intake valve1 and the trouble was cured4 ,the reason for doing this was that there was a high spot on the back of the intake cam which would open the valve a slight amount on the compression stroke4 ,the clearance was increased to a point where the high spot had no effect4 ,one day a motorist had serious magneto trouble4 ,the engine missed and finally stopped4 ,it was necessary to take the magneto to an expert to have it repaired4 ,the very day the magneto was replaced the car started missing again and it looked as if the work had not been properly done4 ,finally the engine refused to go further4 ,a passing farm wagon was hailed and the car brought home--seven miles4 ,the magneto was returned to the shop1 but nothing wrong was found4 ,yet when it was replaced the car still refused to run4 ,a telephone talk with the nearest agent1 forty miles away1 showed that the trouble might be in the carburetor and a search showed that it was--the low speed jet was clogged4 ,to prove the truth of this suspicion the engine was primed and ran perfectly except at low speed4 ,when the car first stalled1 it occurred to the owner that it might be a good idea to prime the engine1 but he dismissed the thought because he was so certain the trouble was in the magneto1 and without a better reason than it was too much work to prime the engine because there were no priming cups4 ,a similar trouble in that it was of a dual nature was experienced with a car which had just had the valves ground and the carbon removed4 ,after the work was done the engine could not be started4 ,investigation showed there was no spark4 ,no short-circuits could be found in the wiring4 ,the breaker points were examined and after filing and adjusting them the engine started on the first turn4 ,fortunately the man who did this job knew how to proceed--he made no guesses or assumptions4 ,in this he was different from the owner whose experience was related elsewhere4 ,the last two instances show something it is very important for everyone to realize1 although this is a diversion1 namely1 that repair men are often blamed for tampering with cars without cause4 ,the preceding incident was pure coincidence4 ,the breaker points gave out entirely when the engine was shut off prior to grinding the valves4 ,the various incidents which have been related prove that it is not wise to take anything for granted4 ,it seems like a simple rule1 but only those who have tried to follow it will find out how hard it is4 ,it is also important to bear in mind that it is not wise to use too much logic in hunting trouble1 for the solution is often far from logical4 ,it is well to reason as carefully as possible1 but if the solution is still to be found it often happens that it is obtained by some illogical act4 ,follow the general-trouble rule in an orderly way1 therefore1 and do not take anything for granted4 ,,chapter ,,xlv ,,blowing ,,your ,,own ,,horn ,of course it is your horn and you have a right to do anything you want to do with it--except make a nuisance of yourself to others--and you can toot it to your heart's content when off in some wilderness2 but if you desire to live in peace and harmony with your neighbors and with your fellow travelers in this vale of tears1 you will have a care when and where you toot your toots4 ,in olden days it was compulsory to have bells on the horse when drawing a sleigh1 which was supposed to be noiseless4 ,the bells were to give warning of the sleigh's approach around a curve or over the hill4 ,this was the only vehicle to have a warning tone1 except the fishman or the junk cart1 and their noise was inviting--ostensibly--rather than warning1 though often it ought to have been the latter4 ,soon after the coming of the bicycle it became apparent that some means of signalling its approach must be had4 ,now singularly enough in the light of present-day understanding1 the bicycle bell or horn was not to warn people to get out of the way4 ,it was to warn folks that you were looking out for them and that1 unless they stepped suddenly in your path1 they might feel assured that you would not run into them4 ,everybody understood that the pedestrian had first right to the road4 ,bicycle riders practiced strenuously the ways to avoid the man afoot--most of them4 ,with the coming of the automobile the use of horns was continued1 early electrics and some others using a bell4 ,they were the continuance of the bicycle warning1 and when the automobile was popularizing itself it was understood that the bell or horn was merely to prevent others from walking into danger4 ,the autoist saw to it1 so far as he could1 that the man1 woman1 or child went safe4 ,came another generation and the universal use of the automobile for pleasure1 business1 and transportation uses1 and all of a sudden people began to talk about the rights of the autoist1 and the horn began to peremptorily order folks to get out of the way or get run over4 ,there is not the slightest doubt in the mind of the writer that the present attitude of autoists in general is due to the mistaken notion that they have rights in the roadway part of the street and the pedestrian's rights are confined to the sidewalks and crossing walks2 nor that this notion was bred by the police regulations of traffic which sought to protect the pedestrian by herding him off the road to the side walks and permitting him at intervals to cross the road4 ,it is noticeable1 however1 that not one arrest for refusing to keep off the roadway has ever been made--or at least sustained by court4 ,the policeman may frown at the man who tries to go contrary to the traffic rule1 but that is all4 ,out of this misunderstanding there has come such a constant use of horns as to make it a continual nuisance on thickly traveled streets and even on much traveled highways in the country4 ,and the nuisance is not from the necessary signaling to other cars or vehicles1 but the unnecessary tooting the driver does because he wants everybody to know that he is coming and to understand that they must get out of the way for him4 ,now a certain amount of signaling is needed in driving1 but it is possible to drive through the thick traffic of ,new ,york ,city from the ,battery to ,harlem without tooting the horn half a dozen times--that is if one is a careful and well-instructed driver4 ,watch other drivers and pedestrians and do not blow the horn after they have seen you1 or if their direction and speed of travel is such that they will be out of your way before you get to them4 ,if not seen1 sound the horn once and be ready to stop4 ,as a matter of fact the foot should instinctively go to the brake pedal each time the hand goes to the horn4 ,but if you are seen by the other person why blow the horn at all8 ,if one is driving along a country road and desires to pass another car going in the same direction1 it is customary to sound the horn once that the driver ahead may not turn his car in front of you1 and so that1 if needed1 he may turn to the right to let you pass on the left4 ,he is the judge as to when and where he will turn1 since he can see ahead better and knows what obstructions are to be avoided4 ,with few exceptions he will1 when signaled1 immediately give way2 if he does not1 and it is fair to presume that he heard the signal1 it is polite to wait a moment before again signaling your desire4 ,one also should signal just before reaching the top of a hill1 particularly if the road be a narrow one1 that anyone coming up on the other side may know of your presence and be guided accordingly2 likewise the signal should be given before coming to a cross-roads1 unless there is a plain view of both roads for a sufficient distance to make sure that a collision is not likely4 ,occasionally one will catch up to a farmer's load of hay1 and the signal will not be heard1 and it becomes necessary to toot a number of times1 but this is rare4 ,in meeting a wagon or another auto it is not necessary to sound the horn unless it is apparent that the other driver does not see you1 or is keeping to the crown of the road1 expecting you to do all the turning out4 ,well1 even then1 sometimes1 it is better to do it1 at that4 ,as a rule1 it is easier on one's temperament1 and safer in the long run1 to let the fellow who wants all the road have it2 therefore when you hear a speed fiend coming1 his presence announced by vociferous tooting of the horn and perhaps punctuated by shouting1 or oaths1 draw to one side and slow up4 ,it costs little either in time or effort1 and if it happens to be a load of drunken1 irresponsible loafers you will be safe4 ,at the same time1 if you have influence with the police and other officials1 call their attention to persons who thus disregard others and see that they are fined and their licenses taken4 ,for the meekness advised1 in letting them have their own way1 is but that you may survive to do a piece of good work for the country at large by bringing before the law those who violate all principles of courtesy and rules of the road4 ,blow your own horn1 if you want to1 but blow it discreetly2 let others blow1 too1 and heed the warning1 lest you come to grief with them4 ,,chapter ,,xlvi ,,women ,,as ,,drivers ,the #e4ai had stopped at ,lonesomehurst1 and the grating sound of the ,klaxon had caused more than one commuter to wish there were a law against harsh noises4 ,to ,cholly ,subbubs1 however1 it had a welcome tone1 and he grabbed for his bundles and umbrella1 saying while he dashed to the door and swung off the train as it pulled out3 8,sorry1 boys2 finish the game tomorrow4 ,wife's here with the car for me40 ,his partners at whist saw him step into a smart car driven by ,mrs4 ,subbubs1 who turned it about and took the road parallel with the track and for several miles gave race to the train1 while sundry passengers uttered wise sayings as to the folly of a woman trying to run an auto4 ,a woman can run a car as well as a man one of the commuters finally averred1 as an answer to the criticism of the wiseacres4 ,i expect my wife will be at the next station and we will have a twenty-five-mile spin before dinner4 ,it will blow off all the grouch1 and blow out of my lungs all the bad air ,i have had to breathe today1 and give me an appetite that would do credit to a man who has been toting bricks up a ladder rather than selling bonds4 ,he had told the story of the new era of automobiling which has come to the metropolis4 ,wife1 the chauffeur6 ,now what is happening about ,new ,york ,city is an old story in some parts of the country1 but the latest wrinkle in suburban travel about these parts is for friend wife to meet the train two or three stations up the line and take tired hubby for a ride on the way home4 ,having learned to run the car1 she had been taking him to the station and meeting him at night4 ,one night he was startled to hear her familiar signal on the horn--he knows his master's voice--some distance from the home station1 looked out of the window and just had time to swing off on the station platform4 ,now he is keen for that sound4 ,probably every commuter train which leaves the city each evening in pleasant weather has several such scenes4 ,it is not a fad1 either1 but the solution of the fresh-air problem for pent-up business men2 the relaxation from the daily cares and just the most delightful visit with each other that devoted ones can have4 ,in the summer evenings there is time for a long ride before dining2 in the cooler evenings of fall and winter1 when dark comes before hubby is due1 good roads still are inviting and the crisp air rejuvenates one and creates an appetite which is alarming1 the high cost of living considered4 ,women in the ,east began to take an interest in running an automobile about the time the self-starter was put on the market1 three or four years ago4 ,cranking is not a feminine job and old models of cars bore no semblance in convenience and ease of handling to those now on the market2 they are more reliable and dependable than the ancient makes4 ,then1 too1 women in ,new ,york are used to being waited upon4 ,they are not of the aggressive type1 and do not care for man's work2 while in the ,west they are more self-reliant4 ,that is only natural1 since the western women have been thrown more upon their own resources2 having helped the men subdue prairie and forest and desert1 the younger generation has not departed from their footsteps4 ,there are self-reliant women in ,new ,york1 of course1 but of a different type1 and one would hardly expect them to want to own or operate a car themselves2 but they are beginning to1 by the thousands4 ,another reason for the slowness of women to take up auto driving is that ,new ,york ,city is not a place for pleasure driving2 but in the suburbs they are taking it up rapidly1 as the increasing daytime honk-honk indicates4 ,in the city it is unnecessary1 for there is every convenience for shopping or calling at beck and call--taxis1 buses1 and rent cars4 ,these things are not to be had so largely in the suburbs1 and when hubby is at business and the chauffeur is at his grandmother's funeral1 or has too heavy a load of 8,oh1 be joyful10 for safety or pleasure1 it is a case of stay at home1 or learn to run the thing for herself4 ,she learns1 and then does not have to worry about the chauffeur going around the corner for a highball while she is calling4 ,so far as mastering the mechanical and technical details of a car1 women seem to be just as apt as most men1 if they take it seriously enough4 ,the fact that mechanical talent is not limited to the male sex is indicated by the numerous automobile developments which are the product of the feminine brain4 ,the ,y4 ,m4 ,c4 ,a4 ,automobile ,school has been taking women pupils for three years and among the four hundred graduates have been every type1 from the society debutante to the mature matron1 chorus girl1 actress1 and a few who desired to become professional chauffeurs--8,jit ,chicks0 they call them in ,philadelphia--with a lot of applications from school teachers4 ,it does not appear why so many of that class have taken the course1 but one of the instructors says that most of them are learning so that at vacation time they can take their car instead of the ocean steamer or railroad train and spend two months 8seeing ,america40 ,one of them1 however1 declares that she intends to become a professional chauffeur during vacation1 so that she can make money while enjoying a full relaxation from her ordinary labor4 ,she teaches at an exclusive club-colony center and will run her car there4 ,when the first woman applicant came1 it caused some of the instructors to gasp3 8,why1 a woman cannot understand an engine40 8,only because they never have tried10 was the response4 8,give me a chance--,i'll show you40 8,but you would get all dirty4 ,the men have to crawl under the cars and get covered with grease and grime10 was objected4 8,if they get any dirtier than ,i did this morning when ,i had to clean out the kitchen stovepipe10 was the comeback1 8then ,i'll give up2 grease has no fearsomeness for a housewife40 ,illustration3 ,,she ,,is ,,accumulating ,,knowledge ,,of ,,an ,,intricate ,,machine--,,and ,,she ,,is ,,fascinated ,of course the director gave in1 as man ever has yielded to woman1 and today the women's department of the school is a fixture1 for woman has demonstrated that she can understand machinery and wires and things and learn how to pilot a car and do all sorts of other stunts with it4 ,it is no child's play to which the woman student is ushered when beginning the course4 ,she goes right at a machine and first of all has to learn what the array of bolts and valves and belts and wires is for4 ,the women put on big aprons--or overalls--and gloves1 and with sleeves rolled up start to dissect one of the cars as a doctor does a cadaver4 ,from starting crank to differential and from spark plug to oil sump it all has to come down1 and1 worse yet1 has to be put together again4 ,the dainty young thing in dimity--under the jumper--gets her arms greasy and a splotch on her nose1 but she doesn't care a bit1 for it all washes off and she knows that back of the nose she is accumulating something that won't wash off--a knowledge of an intricate machine--and she is fascinated4 ,she has to learn about tires1 too2 how to take them off and repair and replace them4 ,it is just a bit odd to see a woman patching an inner tube as handily and as daintily as though she were embroidering a bit of ,christmas frumpery2 but really she handles the shears to cut the patch a lot more readily than most men1 and she puts the patch in place as carefully as though she were mending the seat of her young hopeful's rompers4 ,when the student has mastered the mechanical part and has overcome all the 8queering0 the instructor can devise1 she is taken out for road experience4 ,when she has the car ready1 supplied with gasoline1 lubricating oil1 water for the radiator1 and all the other things which make for safety and successful operation1 and has cranked the engine1 unless there is a self-starter1 then1 with hands and feet engaging the steering wheel1 levers1 and pedals1 the momentous hour has come when the machine is to be under her control4 ,the instructor is provided with a duplicate set of levers for an emergency4 ,lessons begin in the quiet streets1 gradually emerging into those busier1 until at last ,fifth ,avenue and ,forty-second ,street1 the busiest intersection in the metropolis1 is reached4 ,the women always enjoy that4 ,never one but shows she is having the time of her life at that corner4 ,they are expected to lose their heads and 8go up in the air10 but they do not4 ,they are not so reckless as men1 are quicker to grasp a situation1 and do not 8take a chance0 as men do4 ,alertness is an attribute of most women1 also intuition1 and these are qualities needed by an auto driver4 ,the era of low-priced cars undoubtedly has had something to do with the influx of women into auto driving4 ,thousands to whom a high-priced car with liveried chauffeur must ever be a dream1 are able to have a moderate or low-priced car for the whole family4 ,mother will not let her sons and daughters distance her in anything1 so she learns too4 ,whatever may be the cause1 it is a fact that the women of the country are taking up the auto seriously4 ,there already are too many in the city streets to excite even casual notice1 but in the suburbs1 where there is an almost total absence of men during the daytime1 every car you meet has a woman at the wheel4 ,there is no indication1 however1 that man has been relegated to the care of the nursery4 ,he still is too valuable as a producer for that--producer of gasoline and tires and what not4 ,but the chauffeur who drives for a living must take account of the woman at the wheel1 for it means lessened opportunity2 still1 the use of trucks is increasing1 and woman is not likely to be a competitor there--not yet4 ,,chapter ,,xlvii ,,miscellaneous ,,rules ,below are given a number of rules for doing things about an automobile1 which may help the novice remember the instructions heretofore given by the agent from whom he bought the car1 or obtained at the service station1 in the manufacturer's book of instructions1 or elsewhere4 ,,four ,,things ,,to ,,do ,,before ,,leaving ,,the ,,garage ,be sure there is plenty of water4 ,be sure there is plenty of gasoline4 ,be sure there is plenty of oil4 ,be sure there is plenty of air in the tires4 ,,five ,,things ,,to ,,do ,,before ,,cranking ,,the ,,engine ,be sure the emergency brake is set4 ,be sure the gear-shift lever is in neutral position4 ,retard the spark fully4 ,open the gas hand throttle about one-third4 ,throw switch to battery position4 ,,three ,,things ,,to ,,do ,,after ,,cranking ,close the throttle until the engine idles4 ,advance the spark about two-thirds4 ,switch from battery to magneto4 ,,to ,,adjust ,a ,,carburetor ,adjust the needle valve at low speed--engine idling4 ,for high speeds adjust the auxiliary air valve4 7,owners should learn the make-up of their carburetor before attempting to adjust it1 and should first watch someone who knows how to do it47 ,,to ,,adjust ,,cam ,,shafts ,,which ,,time ,,valve ,,opening ,,and ,,closing ,make sure that push-rod adjustment is right--that a thin card will pass between push rod and valve stem when valve is closed4 ,determine direction of rotation of cam shafts4 ,set fly wheel so that the mark #a ,t4 ,c4 7top center7 registers with pointer4 ,turn fly wheel until mark #aj ,p4 ,t4 ,c4 7past top center7 registers with pointer4 ,rotate exhaust cam shaft in proper direction until the exhaust valve of ,no4 #a cylinder has just closed4 ,rotate inlet cam shaft until inlet valve of ,no4 #a cylinder is just about to open4 ,mesh the gears and lock them in place4 ,if ,no4 #a cylinder is right the others must be4 ,,rule ,,for ,,timing ,,the ,,magneto ,find the firing order of the engine4 ,turn crank shaft of engine and note directions in which armature and distributor of magneto should revolve4 ,set ,no4 #a cylinder on beginning of power stroke by watching exhaust valve just close and then turning crank one complete revolution4 ,set fly wheel so that mark ,no4 #a4 ,t4 ,c4 registers with pointer4 ,retard spark fully--by moving breaker box in same direction as arrow points or armature rotates1 as far as it will go4 ,rotate armature in proper direction until interrupter points are just about to open4 ,in this position mesh gears and lock magneto to base4 ,at this point prove your work by advancing spark4 ,if points are right they will open4 ,notice what point in distributor the rotor is touching4 ,this goes to ,no4 #a cylinder4 ,wire distributor in firing order of the engine4 7,the distributor always rotates in opposite direction to the armature47 ,,rules ,,for ,,care ,,of ,,clutch ,to remedy a harsh gripping leather-faced cone clutch1 apply neatsfoot oil or castor oil to leather face4 ,to remedy a slipping leather-faced cone clutch1 apply fuller's earth or ,french talc to leather facing4 ,in rare cases a little gasoline may be used4 ,to remedy a harsh gripping multiple disc clutch that runs in oil1 add engine oil to the mixture4 ,to remedy a slipping multiple disk clutch running in oil1 add kerosene to the mixture4 ,too little spring tension will cause slipping4 ,once every #ajj miles turn down all grease cups on the clutch4 ,once every #ejj miles apply neatsfoot oil to a leather-faced clutch4 ,once every #ajjj miles drain a multiple disc clutch and clean thoroughly with kerosene and renew the oil4 ,,rules ,,for ,,care ,,of ,,transmission ,,and ,,differential ,it must be kept half filled with very heavy oil4 7,consult manufacturer's instructions47 ,once every #ejj miles inspect and replenish lubricant if need be4 ,once every #ejjj miles drain case1 clean thoroughly with kerosene1 and renew lubricant4 ,,rules ,,for ,,care ,,of ,,other ,,parts ,once every #ajjj miles pack universal joint with very heavy grease4 ,once every #bej miles use oil can freely and turn down all grease cups on torsion and radius rods4 ,pack the wheel hubs with grease every #ajjj miles4 ,pack the steering worm housing with medium grease every #ejj miles4 ,oil the steering mechanism every #ajj miles and turn down all grease cups4 ,,lubrication ,,time-,,table ,lubricate as often as is necessary4 ,the safest rule always is to follow the manufacturer's instructions4 ,every #ajj miles3 ,use oil can freely2 turn all grease cups down two or three turns4 ,be sure that these parts are well lubricated3 ,steering apparatus1 clutch1 spring-shackle bolts1 crank handle1 fan1 valve-rocker arms1 wheel hubs4 ,every #bej miles3 ,give same care to braking apparatus1 emergency brake1 and gear-shift levers1 and rocker shafts1 water pump1 torsion and radius rods4 ,clean force-feed oil system4 ,every #ejj miles3 ,inspect transmission and differential cases and refill if necessary2 pack steering worm housing2 apply neatsfoot oil to cone clutch facing2 clean gravity and circulating splash systems4 ,every #ajjj miles3 ,pack universal joints1 ball and socket boots1 hub caps2 oil magneto1 electric motor1 electric generator2 clean disc clutch2 clean splash system2 lubricate spring leaves by jacking up frame of car1 spreading leaves apart1 and putting graphite mixed with gasoline between leaves4 ,every #ejjj miles3 ,drain transmission and differential cases and clean with kerosene and renew lubricant2 clean wheel bearings and repack hubs with grease4 ,give all bearings a careful inspection and take up all play4 ,,care ,,of ,,storage ,,battery ,keep electrolite over top of plates by adding distilled water4 ,keep top of battery clean and metal parts covered with vaseline to prevent corrosion4 ,keep holes in vent plugs open4 ,never leave battery standing in a discharged condition4 ,make sure it is tightly fastened on car4 ,examine battery once a week in summer2 every two weeks in winter4 ,take hydrometer readings at these times2 never take hydrometer reading immediately after adding water2 wait fifteen minutes for water to mix with electrolite4 ,if one cell always needs water examine for leaky container4 ,,indications ,,of ,a ,,discharged ,,battery ,starting motor cranks engine slowly or not at all4 ,lamps burn dimly or not at all4 ,lamps burn brightly when first turned on but soon dim4 ,electric horn weak4 ,low specific gravity of electrolite4 ,,causes ,,of ,,discharged ,,battery ,generator not charging battery4 ,generator belt slipping4 ,wires short-circuited or grounded4 ,plates not covered with electrolite4 ,defective or leaky cell4 ,excessive lamp load4 ,excessive use of lamps when engine is stopped4 ,car not being run fast enough to charge at sufficient rate4 ,using starter too much4 ,cut-out not working properly4 ,broken or loose connection between generator and battery4 7,storage battery efficiency in winter is half that of summer47 ,,locating ,,troubles ,,in ,,lighting ,,and ,,ignition ,,system ,if no charge shows on dash meter when engine is running at speed equal to #ae m4 p4 h41 connect good ammeter in series with dash meter2 if this meter shows proper charging rate1 trouble is with dash meter2 if it also shows no charge1 connect voltmeter with generator terminals4 ,if it indicates a very high voltage1 generator is ,o4 ,k4 and trouble is between generator and battery4 ,test cut-out and examine all connections and wires4 ,if lights light when engine is stopped1 trouble is between generator and ammeter4 ,if lights do not light1 trouble is between ammeter and battery4 ,if no1 or low1 voltage is indicated1 trouble is with the generator1 regulator1 or wire between generator and regulator4 ,if starting motor will not crank engine1 make sure battery is ,o4 ,k41 connections bright and clean1 commutator and brushes in good condition1 and that starting switch makes good contact4 ,crank engine by hand to make sure some mechanical defect is not preventing engine from turning4 ,if starting motor spins but does not crank engine1 pinion or drive gear may be loose1 chain broken1 or overrunning clutch slipping4 ,if a ,bendix drive1 pinion may stick in worm due to dirt in threads4 ,if none of the bulbs light1 examine connection at battery1 ammeter1 lighting switch1 and wires between those units for breaks2 also all the bulbs may be burned out4 ,if a grounded system1 examine ground connection at frame4 ,if only one bulb fails to light1 trouble must be in its own circuit4 ,take trouble lamp or voltmeter and test at contacts of connector at lamp4 ,if you get current at this point1 trouble is with bulb or contact pins sticking1 or not long enough4 ,if you do not get current at this point1 examine fuses1 connections at lighting switch and connectors2 also wire for breaks4 ,as a short circuit on the car generally shows its presence by its effect on battery1 preventing it from holding a charge1 if meter shows discharge all the time1 remove wire from meter or battery4 ,if needle remains on discharge1 needle is stuck2 if it drops to zero1 there is a short circuit or cut-out does not open4 ,a short circuit beyond the lighting switch will not show on the meter until switch is turned to circuit in which short circuit is located4 ,this will cause lights to dim and show a heavy discharge on meter4 ,as there are other circuits whose current does not pass through meter1 a short circuit in them would not be indicated on meter1 but would be indicated by running down of battery4 ,to locate1 remove all bulbs1 also all wires from one of the battery terminals4 ,connect one side of the trouble lamp to battery terminal and the other side of lamp to wires removed4 ,any current leaving the battery must now pass through the trouble lamp causing it to light4 #a--;,if trouble lamp lights when lighting switch is turned off1 short circuit is either in starting motor-circuit1 generator circuit 7or cut-out does not open71 horn circuit1 or in wires between lighting switch and battery1 or in ignition circuit4 ,eliminate one circuit after another until trouble lamp goes out4 ,then examine circuit on which it goes out for short4 #b--;,if trouble lamp lights only when lighting switch is on1 short circuit is in circuit beyond lighting switch4 ,examine circuit indicated on face of switch when in position that trouble lamp lights1 as switch can be divided into sections4 ,eliminate one section after another until trouble lamp goes out2 then examine this circuit for short4 ,,chapter ,,xlviii ,,the ,,golden ,,rule ,,of ,,motoring ,this volume does not pretend to set a standard of manners for owners of automobiles1 nor does it profess to be a first-aid course in courtesy1 much less suggest lessons in gentlemanliness1 which might as well be called gentleness at once2 yet there is sad need of instruction in all these things1 if one may judge by the experiences of the road and of the inn and garage stops along the way4 ,now the writer believes that the ,american citizen is a gentleman to the manor born1 of natural right and disposition1 and that he does not leave his manners at home1 as he is supposed to leave his religion at the church door4 ,a gentleman in the drawing-room will be a gentleman on the highway4 ,he will not be a boor because the man he happens to meet is one1 not even if the majority are4 ,why is it1 then1 that there is an utter absence of courtesy1 or if there be an occasional display of good nature it but emphasizes the lack of it in general8 ,undoubtedly this is a fair statement of conditions in and about the metropolis4 ,it is not true to anywhere near the same extent in the ,western country1 and 8,western0 ought to be understood in this connection as anything west of the ,alleghany range4 ,the writer has been astounded on several occasions in ,denver and other ,western cities at the really human spirit of the drivers4 ,they actually stopped of their own accord to let the writer1 a pedestrian at the time1 cross the street1 and did it in so gracious a way as to make it seem a real pleasure4 ,picture that on ,fifth ,avenue1 ,new ,york ,city1 or upon any of the highways out of the metropolis on a ,sunday or holiday in warm weather4 ,but it is not alone in the attitude of the driver toward the pedestrian that there is remissness1 but in the behavior toward other drivers that there is need for improvement4 ,what is easier than to cheerfully make way for the man who wishes to pass by1 or to turn aside as much as may be necessary for the other car we meet2 to slow up at the intersection1 instead of spurting to get ahead of the other fellow1 and making him jam on the brakes to avoid a collision8 ,why is it necessary to try to get the best of the other fellow1 as though driving were a contest of wits and that skill on the road consisted in 8beating the other fellow to it80 ,perhaps the answer to all this criticism is that in and about ,new ,york1 where there is a dense population1 there are thousands of drivers who are not from the ranks of the well-bred1 by which is not meant the wealthy4 ,the low price of cars and the thousands of used cars on the market has put them at the disposal of the butcher boy and the hod carrier and bell hop1 and they seem to have the idea that the driver of a car possesses superior rights over others and must assert it4 ,out in the land where folks have a chance to open their lungs and breathe1 a broader view of life is held4 ,it is a fact1 however1 that the well-to-do families of the ,east are more and more requiring of their drivers that they follow the golden rule and not the ,eben ,holden brand4 ,you remember ,eben's version3 8,do unto others what they are trying to do unto you1 and do it fust40 ,secretary of ,state ,francis ,m4 ,hugo1 of ,new ,york1 recently delivered an address to a group of students in which he said a number of pertinent things concerning the operation of cars1 based upon his own experiences4 ,it is so good that it is reprinted here3 ,it is not too much to say that the future of motoring largely depends upon the behavior of motorists and their drivers toward the public4 ,as fewer owners of large touring machines drive their own cars nowadays in proportion to the number driven than used to be the case1 it is1 therefore1 mainly the behavior of their drivers on the road that is important4 ,the subject of the training of the motor man is consequently worth much attention1 and that the automobile community as a whole realizes this is evident not only by the establishment of various schools1 where the mechanical side of the profession is taught to the future driver1 but by the efforts of various clubs and associations1 notably of the ,y4 ,m4 ,c4 ,a41 who have started schools all over the country to help in this training4 ,for the past few years1 those who drive motor cars for wages have been called 8chauffeurs10 a word against which a protest should always be made on the double ground of etymology and nationality4 ,to begin with1 the word in reality means 8stoker40 ,on the foot plate of a ,french locomotive the driver is called 8mechanicien10 while the fireman is designated as the 8chauffeur40 ,in the case of motor cars propelled by steam1 the word 8chauffeur0 may thus be held to be remotely correct1 but on the ordinary car propelled by the internal combustion engine or by electric power1 there is no sense in the term4 ,in the best ,french circles also1 the word 8mechanicien0 is always used to designate the driver of a car and the word 8chauffeur0 even in ,france is said to be becoming obsolete4 ,the motorman1 as he will1 therefore1 be called1 is very often the subject of much discussion and sometimes of irrational abuse4 ,of course1 there are black sheep in this profession1 as in every other1 but one is glad to place on record that black sheep were far more numerous five years ago than they are now4 ,no one who observes without prejudice the behavior of motor-car drivers in ,new ,york ,city and elsewhere can help being struck with the careful way in which private motor cars are now driven1 the neatness and cleanliness of the men themselves1 and the vast improvement which has taken place in their general manners4 ,formerly1 it was thought to be the highest mark of the profession that a motorman should be dirty in every respect1 and a greasy cap1 black hands and face1 oily clothes and1 as a rule1 a half-smoked dirty cigarette in the side of his mouth1 combined with a contemptuous scowl at every passer-by1 was not an uncommon sight4 ,this state of things1 however1 has changed for the better4 ,occasionally a specimen of the primeval driver is met with1 and even now the habit of cigarette smoking when in charge of a car is supposed1 by the younger and less intelligent men of the profession1 to confer an air of knowledge coupled with disdain4 ,in course of time this form of swagger will die out also4 ,the manners1 moreover1 of many motormen to their employers and to their fellow servants have not in the past been all that could be desired1 but as stated before1 their general behavior is markedly improving1 and it must be remembered that1 motormen are greatly superior in intelligence to most of their predecessors4 ,it need hardly be noted here that much depends upon the way the motorman has been trained4 ,when automobiling was just beginning the only person available who even half knew the somewhat complicated machine of the early days was the mechanic trained for a few months in the shop where the car had been manufactured4 ,he was master of the situation because he alone had working knowledge of its parts4 ,no one in those days thought for one moment of a motorman from the viewpoint of good driving4 ,the owner of the car1 above all1 desired to possess a good mechanic1 for breakdowns were numerous and varied and half of the expenses of motoring were necessitated by renewals of parts or adjustments due to ordinary wear and tear4 ,nowadays serious or even insignificant breakdowns are rare1 and there is hardly a first-class make of car in the market which will not run many thousands of miles without anything being necessary in the way of repairs and adjustments4 ,those which are necessary are1 moreover1 of the simplest kind4 ,there is no longer1 therefore1 the same necessity for the motorman to be what is called a really good mechanic1 so long as he understands the general principle on which the engine works and the arrangement of the gears4 ,the majority of motor-car owners have1 therefore1 changed in their requirements4 ,they do not want a man who is primarily a skilled mechanic1 but they do ask for a skillful driver1 and on this wise alternative in the chief qualifications demanded lies a good deal of the reason for the great change which has taken place in the behavior of the motorman in the city and out of it4 ,it may be remarked that an excellent mechanic is not necessarily a good driver1 though he may be so in certain cases4 ,what is required in the driver besides the general knowledge of the machinery is a knowledge of the customs and courtesies of the road and the habits of traffic1 the possession of the qualities of alertness1 foresight1 and consideration for others4 ,above all1 he should have a temperate frame of mind1 an abstinence not only from drunkenness1 but drinking in any but a most moderate sense4 ,the driver of an ordinary wagon is conspicuous by his ignorance of the way to drive and his want of consideration of other traffic4 ,he is the most persistent moving obstruction which exists4 ,the motor-car driver1 on the other hand1 has to be the best driver on the highway if he is to drive without offense to the public and danger to them and himself1 for he has to conduct a vehicle which is more valuable than any other and far and away more speedy though more handy1 and1 therefore1 whose meeting with and overtaking of other vehicles is many times more rapid4 ,in addition to these1 he has to consider other dangers of the road to which other vehicles are not so liable and which come from the construction of its surface4 ,the complete motorman should have a working knowledge of the different materials of which roads are made1 of their comparative tendency to cause skidding1 and of the perils which arise from excessive and badly laid street-car tracks4 ,he must know and continually practice the courtesies of the road and learn its manners and customs4 ,he must be observant and realize that children hanging on the rear of wagons are liable to drop off suddenly and run across his path4 ,he must be on the look-out for pedestrians1 stupid1 drunk1 or deaf1 for wagons on the wrong side of dangerous corners1 and to be prepared to find vehicles in charge of sleepy drivers who will often do the wrong act on awakening4 ,it will1 therefore1 be seen that the motorman to be really good has to be the best driver on the road and that the standard demanded must necessarily be high4 ,he must possess exceptional qualities as compared with the horse driver4 ,the question is1 therefore1 all important--,what are the best methods of training such a man8 ,there is no doubt that many of the schools which are teaching elementary mechanics to the would-be motorman are excellent in their way4 ,but there are many which are nothing but frauds4 ,reports have frequently been made to the ,state where a man has complained bitterly of having put down #be or #ej in return for which nothing but most elementary instruction has been given and this often in the worst possible way4 ,there has been no teaching in traffic rules or on the road1 or1 if given1 so little as to be of no use4 ,but at other places pains are taken1 and1 by diagrams in the class-room and practical teaching on the road much has been taught4 ,there are also nowadays hand-books galore which teach the construction1 repair1 the common faults and likely failings of the gasoline engine from ,a to ,z4 ,the mechanical side may1 therefore1 be said to have been amply provided for4 ,but this is only the less important1 though necessary1 part of the training of the modern motorman4 ,what is really needed is that some school should teach manners on the road and the habits of traffic1--in short1 train its men for the road4 ,there should also be problems of difficult but ordinary situations in traffic set in a written examination1 the correct solution of which should be obligatory before the motorman could be said to be property trained4 ,it is not1 perhaps1 easy to see at first how this sort of instruction can be given on the present scale of fees1 but the schools in the future1 which devote a large part of their attention to teaching the rules of the road and its customs and courtesies will assuredly turn out the best class of drivers1 who will be in the greatest demand4 ,to begin with1 the habits of horse-drawn vehicles should be studied4 ,it is a liberal education to take a journey1 for instance1 on the top of a ,fifth ,avenue motor bus and watch the way in which the driver drives his unwieldly vehicle through the streets of ,new ,york4 ,other bus drivers also are rapidly becoming his equal1 and let it be acknowledged that nothing but the hard school of practical1 every-day experience in ,new ,york ,city streets1 assisted by police supervision and the fear of dismissal for carelessness or accident1 could produce such able drivers4 ,again1 the expert taxicab driver might be taken as an example of a faster class of motor traffic4 ,the would-be first-class motorman when being trained would thus have the experience of horse vehicles and pedestrians1 and have noted carefully what usually happens and have tried to understand their point of view4 ,this is one of the first steps which should be taken in training the driver of the swift mechanical vehicle4 ,then example might be given of the proper way to drive cars around corners1 both right-handed and left-handed1 and the best manner of the ascending and surmounting steep gradients or negotiating high bridges4 ,driving at night should also be practiced1 and prospective drivers should learn to distinguish the faint glow on the road ahead which designates the presence of a motorcycle and other signs denoting persons or vehicles4 ,map reading should also be a part of his instruction4 ,and there is yet one other thing which the motor-driving school should inculcate1 though it could not technically teach the motorman--that is1 good manners to his employer and his employer's friends4 ,to be rough and rude is a disgrace to any class1 and it is the mark of a man who is either not certain of himself or is afflicted with an innate bad temper4 ,it is not1 and never can be1 a sign of superiority4 ,a respectful and civil attitude not only makes the path of life easier1 but is in itself a strong recommendation4 ,little things which do not at first seem to matter1 and are merely more in the nature of courtesy than servile attentions1 should be observed4 ,a civil salute when the owner first addresses the motorman1 the readiness to help in any little matter1 such as carrying a bag to the station1 or the thought of a rug to cover the lap1 and similar little courtesies1 are the sign of the man who1 if considerate in these little matters1 is likely to be considerate in others more important4 ,it also establishes him firmly in the estimation of his employer4 ,to sum up1 the perfect motorman1 though he should possess as much knowledge of mechanics as possible1 should1 above all1 be a considerate driver1 well versed in the manners and courtesies of the road and the habits of traffic4 ,and in addition1 he should try to be well mannered1 as more and more motor-car owners are becoming convinced that1 besides knowledge1 8,manners maketh the ,motorman40 ,,index ,a ,accelerate while clutch is being engaged1 #afh ,accelerator1 lubrication of1 #da ,accelerator pedal1 #bj2 what it does1 where placed1 #afj ,accessories1 electric1 cause trouble1 #bhb ,air in tires1 plenty of1 before leaving garage1 #cjh ,alcohol1 in freeze-proof solution1 how much to use1 #aib ,alignment1 why wheels are not set in perfect1 #aja1 #ajb1 #ajc ,ammeter1 #bj1 #aji2 needle erratic1 cause of1 #bhc ,anti-freezing solution1 #afd1 #afe2 necessary in winter1 #aia2 best to use1 #aic2 home-made1 cheapest and just as efficient1 #aic2 composition of1 depends on temperature1 #aic2 sometimes wise to replace with hot water to start engine1 #aid ,armature1 increasing speed of1 #aag ,armature winding1 trouble in1 #bgg ,asphalt1 dried1 how to remove from car1 #bda ,asphyxiation from gasoline fumes1 #bbe2 how to avoid1 #bbf ,automobile1 value of1 what it depends on1 #d2 schools1 #g2 half knowledge of1 an obstacle1 #h2 description and essentials of1 #ab2 how to pull out when stuck1 #hf2 steering compared with steering of boats of different types1 #ajb2 setting of wheels compared with bicycle1 #aje2 will steer with broken tie rod1 #ajf2 how to start with engine running1 #aff2 how to stop1 #afh2 how to reverse1 #afi2 cleaning of1 #age1 #bcf2 may be kept in commission in many cold places the year round1 #aia2 any modern make1 if kept in good condition will climb worst hill1 #bbi2 to prepare for a tour1 #bdd2 trouble hunting must be systematic1 #bgb2 trouble1 best way to find1 #bgc2 not a fad1 #cja ,automobile body1 how to care for gloss of1 #bdb ,automobile fires1 causes of1 #bad ,auxiliary air valve1 adjust for high speeds1 #cji ,axle1 rear1 description1 #ac2 forward1 description and location1 #ad ,axle shaft1 rear1 wind felt around1 to keep oil away from brake lining1 #if ,b ,back-firing1 cause of fires1 #bad2 how to prevent1 #bbj ,bands1 brake1 how arranged1 #ig ,batteries1 two should be carried1 #aeg ,battery1 #ae2 source of current1 #aj2 necessity of first testing1 #aji1 #aad2 ignition1 #abj2 be sure it is sufficiently charged before leaving garage1 #aeg2 must be filled oftener in hot weather1 #bjf2 packed around with waste1 sometimes causes fire1 #bag2 test before touring1 #bdh2 inspect1 in case of trouble1 #bgf2 rules for care of1 #cab2 indications and causes of a discharged1 #cac ,battery and coil ignition system1 #ae ,battery to magneto1 switch from1 #cji ,battery trouble1 #abc2 more difficult to keep charged in winter1 #abc2 instance of starving battery1 #abd1 #abe2 must not be overcharged1 #abe2 less efficiency in cold weather1 #abf2 now furnishes all current used1 #abf2 sediment in1 #abf2 can be charged overnight1 #abg2 former battery 8don'ts10 #abg2 average life of battery1 #abh ,bearings1 crank1 #ag2 lubrication of wheel1 #dc2 definition1 different types1 #adi2 of engine1 form and construction1 how oiled1 #aej2 of ignition system1 form and lubrication1 #aeb2 carburetor and throttle1 #aeb1 #aec2 spark-control1 starter1 #aec2 steering-gear1 transmission propeller shaft1 #aed2 other1 #aee2 need additional care in summer1 #bjh2 loose1 cause knocking1 #beh2 tight1 cause knocking1 #bei2 grit in1 due to loss of hub cap1 #bgj ,belts fan1 troubles1 how to care for1 #bjj ,bicycle1 setting of wheel compared with automobile1 #aje ,boats of different types1 steering of1 compared with steering of automobile1 #ajb ,bolts1 dropped from cars1 #bfh2 absence of1 cause squeaks1 #bfi2 examination of1 #bfi2 brake-linkage1 #bga2 dust-pan1 #bga2 must know location of1 #bga2 tighten1 once a month1 #bga ,bottle1 rubber hot-water1 for heating carburetor1 #aid ,brake1 use of engine as a1 #ie1 #bcd1 #bdg2 running1 when needed1 how operated1 #aeh2 emergency1 its use1 how operated1 #aei1 #cjh ,brake bands1 how arranged1 #ig ,brake drums1 description and location1 #ad1 #ae2 how injured1 #ih2 keep free from oil1 #bdg ,brake-lever1 emergency1 #bj1 #aei2 lubrication of1 #da ,brake lining1 can be ruined1 #ie2 oil on1 its cause1 the results1 how to prevent1 #if2 wears thin1 #ih2 when necessary to replace1 #ih2 rivets of1 #ih2 how to save1 #bdg ,brake linkage1 #ae1 #ig2 bolts1 #bga ,brake mechanism1 oiling of1 important1 #ig ,brake pedal1 #bj ,brake rods1 worn1 cause clattering1 #bfd ,brakes1 affect tires1 #gb2 badly or unevenly adjusted1 cause skidding1 #hj1 #hh2 more important than the engine1 manufacturers constantly improving1 #ic2 must be continually watched1 #id2 other means of braking1 #ie2 use of1 on hills1 #ie1 #agb1 #agc2 oil in lining1 what causes it1 how to prevent it1 #if1 #ig2 lubrication necessary1 #ig2 failure of lining1 #ih2 hand and foot1 #ih1 #ii2 adjustment of both1 for best effect1 #ii2 inspect both sets before touring1 #bdf2 use two sets alternately1 #bdg ,brass1 remove corrosion from1 with cleaning compound1 #bci2 how to keep from corrosion1 #bci ,breaker points cause trouble1 #bib ,bulbs1 electric light1 extra set1 #ca ,bursting of radiator1 pipes1 and water-jacket prevented by proper freeze-proof solution1 #aic ,c ,cam1 loose1 causes knocking1 #bei2 follower guide causes knocking1 #bei2 shafts to adjust1 #cji ,cams1 worm1 cause knocking1 #bei ,carbon1 on valves1 #fg2 secondary current absorbed by1 #aai2 acts as a condenser1 #aai2 short circuits spark plug1 #abj2 in engine causes over-heating1 #bjb2 remove1 before touring1 #bdg2 causes knocking1 #bea2 reduces size of combustion chamber1 #beb2 bits of1 in unusual places1 cause trouble1 #bgb2 on valve seats1 #bgd ,carbon dioxide1 in gasoline fumes1 #bbd2 monoxide1 in gasoline fumes1 #bbd ,carbonic acid gas1 in gasoline fumes1 #bbd ,carburetor1 location1 #ae2 what it does1 #bc2 float1 #bc2 adjustment to limit gasoline supply1 #dg2 affected by weather1 #ec2 varieties of1 #ee2 test for1 #ef2 adjustment of1 #ef1 #eg2 poor adjustment of1 #fh2 bearings1 #aeb2 priming1 #aff2 works worst in cold weather1 #ahe2 manufacturers constantly improving efficiency of1 #ahe1 #ahf2 desired which will vaporize heavy gasoline in cold weather1 #ahf2 stove and water-jacket both needed for cold weather1 #ahf2 will work better if hot air is first introduced1 #ahg2 8stove0 put out by many manufacturers1 #ahg2 with water-jacketed mixing chamber1 #ahg2 devices for heating1 #aid2 hot weather treatment1 #bjf2 inspect in case of trouble1 #bge2 how to adjust a1 #cji2 learn construction before attempting to adjust1 #cji ,caster effect of inclined knuckle pins1 #aje ,castor oil for harsh-gripping clutch1 #caj ,cautions1 miscellaneous important1 #agf ,chains1 cross1 #hb2 non-skid1 how to adjust1 #ha1 #hb2 often drop links1 #bgj ,chain tool1 convenience of1 #bi ,chamber1 combustion1 #ag ,chamois skin1 #eb1 #bda ,charge1 of gasoline and air1 #ag2 in combustion chamber1 how fired and when1 #bb ,chart1 ,y4 ,m4 ,c4 ,a41 general trouble1 #bgi ,chassis1 construction of1 #ac2 position of1 #ac2 how to clean1 #bci 8,chauffeur10 real meaning 8stoker10 #cbj ,chauffeurs1 faults of1 #f2 must now have technical electrical knowledge1 #bhb1 #bhc1 #bhd2 show generally an increase in neatness and cleanliness and improvement in manners1 #cba ,choke1 or priming device1 #afb ,circuit1 breaker1 #af2 complete necessary1 #ajh2 secondary1 gap in1 #aab2 secondary1 heavy insulation absorbs current1 #aai ,clattering caused by worn brake rods1 #bfd ,cleaning car1 #age1 #bcf2 cleaner it is kept1 longer it will run satisfactorily1 #bcf2 oil and grease should be removed from outside of engine1 #bcg1 #bch2 from wire terminals and spark plugs1 #bch2 from cylinders1 remove corrosion from brass1 #bci2 keep iron parts from rusting1 #bci2 fan1 fan belt1 pulleys1 and casings1 #bci2 chassis and parts under car1 #bci2 how to make a 8creeper0 to lie on while working under car1 #bdj2 cleaning the body with hose and water1 #bdj2 drying with chamois and cloth1 #bda2 how to remove dried mud and asphalt1 #bda2 do not use soap1 #bda2 use running water if possible1 #bdb2 preparations for renewing varnished surface1 #bdb2 cleaning and treatment of the top1 #bdb2 keep car covered in garage1 #bdb2 slip covers1 #bdc2 fumes from stable or barnyard will dull varnish1 #bdc2 barn used for garage should be renovated1 #bdc ,clearance between valve stems1 and push rods causes trouble1 #bij ,click caused by rear driving shaft1 instance of1 #bfb ,climbing hills1 #aga ,clogging of muffler1 #ade1 #adf ,cloth1 use of1 in cleaning car1 #bda ,clutch1 cone1 #ah2 multiple disc1 #ah2 location of1 #ah2 pedal1 #bj2 lever lubrication of1 #da2 affects tires1 #ga2 where placed1 its purpose1 how it works1 #aeh2 how to use with accelerator pedal1 #afh2 use in hill-climbing1 #agb2 engage gradually1 #agg2 expanding1 instance connected with1 #bhi2 rules for care of1 #caj ,clutch pedal1 where placed1 #aeh ,cold weather1 starting1 in1 #ahd ,combustion1 #fg ,combustion chamber1 #ag2 charge in1 how fired and when1 #bb2 oil in1 #dh1 #di2 reduced in size by carbon1 #beb ,commutators1 driver must know how to sandpaper1 #bhb2 and to undercut the insulation of1 #bhc2 sparking at the1 #bhc ,complications on car1 increase comfort1 but add to worries1 #bhd ,compression1 how maintained1 #bd2 absence of1 #ec2 test before touring1 #bdh2 too high1 causes knocking1 #bea1 #bfj2 necessary to start engine1 #bgc2 tests in case of trouble1 #bgc2 when it occurs1 #bgd ,compression chamber1 instance of stopping knocking by increasing size1 #beb ,compression stroke1 #ag ,condenser1 may need examination1 #aba ,cone clutch1 #ah ,congested streets1 driving in1 #agc ,connecting rod1 #ag1 #fh2 bearing1 causes knock1 #bef1 #beh ,connection1 loose1 results of1 #bhc ,connector1 battery1 #bgf ,conveniences1 added1 have made more trouble1 #bhj1 #bha ,cooling1 principle of1 #ae2 different system1 #ae ,corners1 how to turn1 #agj ,cotter pins1 supply to all nuts before touring1 #bdh2 lost in street1 #bfh2 absence of1 causes squeaks1 #bfi ,courtesy in motoring1 #cag2 more noticeable in the ,west than in the ,east1 #cah2 absence of1 in ill-bred drivers1 #cai2 speech by ,hon4 ,francis ,m4 ,hugo1 general requirements and desirable qualities of men who are trusted to run automobiles on the public roads1 #cai ,covers for radiator1 #aie ,crank1 #ag2 where placed and carried1 #aeg2 missing1 instance of1 #bhg ,crank bearings1 #ag ,crank case1 #af2 water in1 #fh2 to be drained1 cleaned1 and refilled before touring1 #bde ,crank-pin bearings cause knocking1 #beh ,crank shaft1 revolutions in complete cycle1 #ag2 bearing causes knocking1 #beh2 bent1 causes knocking1 #bei ,crank the engine1 how to1 #aff ,cranking engine1 no use when switch is off1 #bhe2 five things to do before1 #cjh2 three things to do after1 #cji ,creeper1 to lie on in working under car1 how to make1 #bdj ,crossings1 railway1 extra care necessary1 #ahj ,crown of the road causes slipping1 #ij ,current1 electric1 course of1 #ajh2 break in1 order of tests to find1 #aji2 more used in starting in winter1 #abf ,cut-out1 object1 #add2 now prohibited and unnecessary1 #ade2 sometimes causes fires when opened in garage1 #baf ,cut-out1 reverse current1 #bhc ,cuts in tires1 #gj ,cycle of the engine1 number of strokes1 #ag ,cylinders1 #af2 importance of testing1 #bd2 size of1 in relation to air taken in1 #dg2 proper power from each1 #fa2 worn oval1 #fg2 water in1 #fh2 outside kept free from oil and grease1 #bch2 raised by fiber gasket1 #beb2 loose on base1 causes knock1 #bef2 worn causes knocking1 #bei2 loose due to lost washers or pins1 #bgj2 test for compression1 #bgd ,d ,dashboard1 wires and pipes1 dials and gauges and switches on1 #bhd ,death from gasoline fumes1 #bbd2 how to avoid1 #bbf ,descending hills1 use of engine as a brake1 #agb ,differential1 location and purpose of1 #ac2 housing1 #ac2 rules for care of1 #caa ,disc clutch1 multiple1 #ah ,distance between cars1 necessary to keep enough1 #hg ,distributor1 #af2 dirty1 causes knocking1 #bfj2 examine in case of trouble1 #bgf ,doors of garage left open when engine is running1 #bbg ,drivers must look out for pedestrians1 #bif ,drive shaft1 #ai ,driving1 #aef2 in congested streets1 #agc ,drums1 brake1 description and location1 #ad1 #ae2 how injured1 #ih2 keep free from oil1 #bdg ,dry cells may be carried while touring1 #bdh ,dust pan1 parts drop into1 #bfi ,e ,electric1 bulbs1 extra set needed while touring1 #bdi2 lights and accessories cause trouble1 #bhb ,electrical1 equipment1 #ajh2 trouble1 tests for1 #aji2 systems1 knowledge of1 necessary to operate and care for a modern car1 #bhb1 #bhc1 #bhd ,electricity1 static1 causes fires1 #bag ,electrolite1 replenish with water1 #cab ,electrolitic action set up by salt in freeze-proof solution1 #aib ,emergencies1 be prepared for1 with proper tools1 #bg ,emergency brake1 lever1 #bj1 #aei2 to be set1 #cjh ,engine1 three things necessary to start1 #aj1 #bgc2 three things necessary to keep running1 #aj1 #ba2 location of1 #ae2 description of1 #af2 cycle1 number of strokes in1 #ag2 power in1 how secured1 #bb2 use of1 as a brake1 #ie1 #agb1 #bcd2 gap in secondary circuit helps to start1 #aab2 skips at low speeds1 #aaf2 missing at high and low speeds1 how to overcome1 #aaf1 #aag2 bearings1 #aej2 how to start1 #afe2 to prevent stalling1 #afg2 speed of1 learn to judge by sound1 #afg2 stalls on a hill1 what to do if1 #agb2 missing due to cold weather1 #ahd2 higher temperature to the boiling point of water1 best for efficiency1 #ahi1 #aig2 efficiency of1 improved by covering radiator when running against the wind1 #aij2 two things necessary to operate in winter1 #aia2 freeze-proof solution1 what to use1 #aia2 priming in cold weather1 #aid2 to start1 sometimes necessary to substitute hot water for anti-freezing solution1 #aid2 runs better in winter when fan is disconnected1 #aie2 radiator cover necessary in cold weather1 #aie2 overheating in summer causes trouble1 #aig2 knocking at high speed1 #aih2 overheats when driven at high speed with spark retarded1 #aih2 overheating caused by sediment in radiator1 #aii2 overheating caused by careless stretching of hose1 #bja2 overheating rarely caused by pump1 #bja2 keep free from carbon to prevent overheating1 #bjb2 will climb worst hills1 if kept in good condition1 #bbi2 remove oil and grease from outside1 #bcg1 #bch2 remove carbon before touring1 #bdg2 knocks from too high compression caused by carbon1 #bea2 knocking stopped by raising cylinder1 #beb2 loose on frame1 causes knocking1 #bei2 loose1 due to lost washers or pins1 #bgj2 oil and water necessary to keep running1 #bgc2 conditions existing in case of trouble1 #bgc2 stalled on crossing1 instance of1 #bhg2 five things to do before cranking1 #cjh ,engine oil1 for multiple disc clutch1 #caa ,equipment1 which may be purchased separately1 #bd2 electrical1 #ajh2 extra1 to be carried on car1 #aeg ,exhaust1 steam from1 in cold weather1 #ej ,exhaust pipe1 #ae2 may set fire to car1 #bae1 #baf2 fumes from1 cause death1 #bbd2 how to prevent1 #bbf2 composition of fumes1 #bbf ,exhaust stroke1 #ag ,exhaust valves1 sticking1 cause knock1 #beg2 carbon in1 #bgd ,expansion of charge1 #ag ,expense of upkeep1 #gc ,explosion1 none1 from gasoline1 #bbb ,extinguisher1 fire1 necessary1 #bah2 dry and liquid1 #bbc2 carry while touring1 #bdi ,f ,fan1 disconnect in cold weather1 #aie2 formed by spokes of fly-wheel1 #bjj2 collects dust1 #bci2 causes knocking1 #bfj ,fan belts1 troubles of1 how to care for1 #bjj2 collects dust1 #bci2 coupling1 causes knocking1 #bei ,fan blades cause knocking1 #bei ,feed systems1 gravity1 pressure1 and vacuum1 #afc ,felt1 use of1 to prevent oil on brake linings1 #if ,fence rail as jack1 #cj ,file1 interrupter point1 #bh ,fire1 causes of1 #bad1 #bae1 #baf1 #bag1 #bah1 #bba2 extinguisher necessary1 #bah2 don't run away from1 stay and fight hard1 #bbj2 to put out1 use sand1 salt1 or patent extinguisher1 #bbb2 carry extinguisher while touring1 #bdi ,first-aid kit1 #cb ,five things to do before cranking engine1 #cjh ,float in carburetor1 #bc ,fly wheel1 #ag2 spokes of1 forming fan1 #bjj2 loose1 causes knocking1 #bei2 out of balance1 causes knocking1 #bei ,force1 how produced in a gasoline engine1 #ag ,force-feed lubrication1 #af ,four things to do before leaving garage1 #cjh ,freeze-proof solution1 for engine1 #aia2 composition of1 depends on temperature1 #aib2 best to use1 #aic2 home-made1 cheapest and just as efficient1 #aic2 sometimes wise to replace1 with hot water to start engine1 #aid ,fresh-air problem1 solution of1 #cja ,fuel supply systems1 #af2 tank1 #af ,fuller's earth for slipping clutch1 #caj ,fumes of gasoline cause death1 #bbd2 chemical changes1 composition of1 #bbd1 #bbf2 heavier than air1 #bbe2 how to avoid1 #bbf2 intoxication from1 #bbg1 #bbh ,fumes from stable or barnyard affect polished auto bodies1 #bdc 8,furnace10 hot-air for warming air before it enters carburetor1 #ahg ,fuse1 #aji2 substitute for1 in horn1 #aac ,g ,gap in secondary circuit1 #aab ,garage doors1 leave open while engine is running1 #bbg ,garage1 what to do before leaving1 #aeg1 #cjh2 opening near floor for escape of gasoline fumes1 #bbg ,gaskets1 intake manifold1 #ec2 dented or jammed1 #fd2 under cylinders increase size of compression chamber1 and stop knocking1 #bec1 #bed ,gas knock1 #beg ,gasoline1 and air1 charge of1 #ag2 under what conditions it explodes1 #ba2 proportion of vapor to air to produce good combustion1 #ba2 causes of excessive use of1 #df2 adjustment of carburetor to limit supply of1 #dg2 needs oxygen for complete consumption1 #dg2 water in1 #eb2 strainer for1 #eb2 different qualities of1 #ee2 cost of1 #eh2 economy of1 #fa1 #fb1 #fc2 loss through leaking1 #fe2 excess of1 indicated by black smoke1 #fh2 affects tires1 #gb2 examine supply before leaving garage1 #aeg2 feed systems1 #afc2 teakettle and dishrag method of vaporizing1 #ahd1 #ahh1 #aid2 volatility of1 decreasing1 #ahe2 present supply has higher heat-producing quality when vaporized1 but heavier1 harder to vaporize in cold weather1 #ahf2 heat necessary to change from liquid to vapor1 #ahf1 #ahg2 stove makes vaporization easier1 #ahg2 when vaporized1 sometimes condenses again in cold engine1 #ahg2 stove and water jacket both needed in cold weather1 #ahh2 vaporizes properly in a warm garage1 some condenses in cold air1 #ahh2 unnecessary amount used by retarded spark1 #aih2 less required in hot weather than in cold1 #bjf2 in drip-pan1 cause of fire1 #bae2 burns1 does not explode under normal conditions1 #bba2 will not explode unless vaporized1 #bbb2 fire1 how to put out1 #bbb2 fumes1 of1 cause death1 #bbd2 chemical changes1 composition of fumes of1 #bbd-bbf2 fumes of1 heavier than air1 #bbe2 how to avoid fumes of1 #bbf2 intoxication from fumes of1 #bbg1 #bbh2 loosens up grease and oil in cleaning car1 #bch2 carry extra supply when touring1 #bdf2 necessary to start engine1 #bgc2 inspect1 in case of trouble1 #bge2 used for slipping clutch1 #caj ,gasoline tank1 where placed1 how gasoline supply is maintained1 #afb2 examine in case of trouble1 #bge ,gas-pipe1 carbon in1 #bgb ,gear1 low-speed1 as a brake1 #ie2 high-speed1 run on as much as possible1 #afh2 always turn corners on second speed1 #aga ,gear casings1 collect dust1 #bci2 refill before touring1 #bde ,gear shifting1 #acg2 necessary for proper adjustment of load to speed1 #ach2 noiseless shifting desirable1 #ach2 how best to shift from first to second1 and second to third1 #aci2 how best to shift from third to second1 and second to first1 #aci1 #adj2 when to go back to second1 to first1 #adj2 don't shift too soon1 #adj2 in hill climbing1 #adj2 how to make a silent shift on a hill1 #ada2 what makes gears grind1 #ada2 how to avoid a noisy shift to first on starting1 #ada2 on hills1 #bbi2 on an up grade1 #bca2 starting up hill1 #bca2 which gear is best to use1 #bcb2 avoid straining car by careful choice of gears1 #bcb1 #bcc2 gears to use descending hills1 #bcc1 #bcd2 no speeding on hills1 perfect control of car necessary1 #bcd ,gear-shifting lever1 where placed1 how operated1 #aei2 how to move1 when stuck in neutral1 #afh2 place in neutral1 #cjh ,gear-shifting pedals1 #bj ,gears1 purpose of1 #ah1 #aca2 trouble comes in the shifting gears1 not in the transmission1 #acj2 grinding or clashing detrimental1 #aca1 #ada2 diagram and explanation of three-speed gears1 #aca2 to start1 #acc2 to increase speed1 #acc1 #acd2 to decrease speed1 #ace2 to reverse1 #acf2 care necessary1 #acf2 use of1 in hill-climbing1 #aga2 examine before touring1 #bde ,generator1 #af2 must not overcharge battery1 #abe2 adjustable for summer and winter1 #abg ,glycerin in freeze-proof solution1 #aib ,gravity fuel supply1 #af1 #afc ,grease1 #fa2 affects tires1 #gb2 heavier quality needed in summer1 #bjg2 carry extra supply when touring1 #bdf ,grease cups1 turn down1 before leaving garage1 #aeg1 #caa1 #cab ,greasing car1 rules for1 #caa1 #cab ,grinding and clashing of gears1 #aca1 #ada ,ground connections1 #aaj ,ground wire1 loose1 #aad ,guides1 valve push-rod1 enclosed in housings1 #dd2 lubrication of1 #dd ,h ,headlight trouble1 #aad ,heat1 much1 necessary for vaporization of gasoline1 #ahf1 #ahi ,high-speed gear1 run on1 as much as possible1 #afh ,high-tension magneto system1 #ae ,hill-climbing1 how to shift gears1 #adj1 #ada2 use of throttle1 spark1 and gears1 #aga2 what to do if engine stalls1 #agb2 use of clutch1 #agb2 blowing horn when1 #big ,hills1 descending1 use of engine as a brake1 #agb2 use of brakes on1 #agc2 the steepest can be made by any modern car which is in good condition1 #bbi ,horn blowing1 #bib2 how it has arisen1 #bie2 much of it unnecessary1 #bif2 blowing not necessary after others have seen you1 #big2 while passing and turning1 #big2 on hills1 #big2 when others are passing1 #bih ,horn trouble1 #aac1 #bhd ,hose1 careless stretching of1 causes overheating1 #bja2 defective1 causes knocking1 #bfj ,hose and water1 how to use in cleaning car1 #bdj ,hot weather1 over-inflation of tire1 instance of1 #bjc2 expands air in tires1 giving greater pressure1 #bjd ,housings1 differential1 #ac2 for valve push-rod guides1 #dd ,hub of rear wheel needs inspection when keyed to shaft1 #dc ,hub caps1 loss of1 allows grit to get into bearings1 #bgj ,hugo1 ,hon4 ,francis ,m41 speech by1 #cai ,hydro-carbon in burning gasoline1 #bbd ,hydrometer1 #aji2 rules for readings1 #cac ,i ,ignition1 switch1 #bj2 magneto1 #aaf2 battery1 #abj2 prevented by short-circuiting due to carbon1 #abj2 switch1 where placed1 its use1 how operated #afb2 use of1 when braking with engine1 on hills1 #agc2 wrongly timed1 causes knocking1 #bfj2 inspect in case of trouble1 #bgf ,ignition system1 kinds1 #ae2 work of1 #bd2 bearings1 #aeb2 requires many changes of spark lever1 #aih2 test before touring1 #bdh2 rules for locating trouble in1 #cad ,inflation1 tire1 under1 #fj2 increased by hot weather1 #bjd2 lower pressure needed in hot weather1 #bje2 proper degree of1 #baa1 #bab ,inlet valve1 #ag2 trouble in1 #bgd ,inspect1 don't expect1 #bhe ,instruction book1 manufacturer's1 importance of fully mastering1 #a1 #bfi ,instructions1 importance of following1 #h1 #i ,insulation1 heavy1 on secondary wires absorbs current1 #aai ,insurance premium lower when extinguisher is carried1 #bah ,intake manifold1 #af2 gaskets1 #ec2 leaky1 #fc2 loose1 #fd ,intake valve1 #eb ,interrupter point file1 #bh ,interrupter points1 adjusting1 to overcome engine missing at high or low speed1 #aaf2 cleaning of1 #aba2 carbon in1 #bgb2 inspect in case of trouble1 #bgf ,iron1 angle1 used in chassis1 #ac ,iron parts1 how to keep from rusting1 #bci ,j ,jack1 importance of handle1 #cj2 use of fence-rail as a1 #cj ,jerking1 how to overcome1 #afg ,jet1 low speed1 clogged1 #bia ,joints1 universal1 #ai1 #dj ,k ,kerosene1 can be used for cleaning out the sump1 #cg2 loosens up grease and oil1 #bch2 for cleaning car1 #bda2 for multiple disc clutch1 #caa ,kit1 first-aid1 #cb ,knocking1 of engine1 #aih2 prevented by removal of carbon1 #bdg2 too high compression1 #bea2 caused by cam-shaft gear1 sticking exhaust valves1 #beg2 stopped by increasing size of compression chamber1 #beb2 many causes for1 #bee2 some need immediate attention1 some do not1 #bef2 loose connecting rod bearing1 loose cylinder1 lack of lubrication1 spark advanced too far1 short circuit1 #bef2 not caused by lean mixture1 or over-advanced spark1 #beh2 caused by mechanical looseness due to improper adjustment or wear1 #beh2 by faulty ignition1 #bei2 by faulty carburetion1 #bfj2 by faulty lubrication1 #bfj2 by overheating of engine1 #bfj2 by faulty compression1 #bfj ,knocks in the chassis1 #bfb ,knuckle-pins1 how kept in place and relieved of weight1 #ajd2 inclined fore and aft1 #aje ,knuckles1 steering1 #ad1 #dj ,l ,lamps1 #aji1 #aaj ,leaks of oil and gasoline1 sources of1 #fe ,lever1 spark timing1 #ai2 emergency brake1 #bj2 throttle1 #ai1 #bj1 #afa2 clutch1 lubrication of1 #da2 gear shifting1 #aei2 emergency brake1 #aei2 spark control1 #afa1 #aih ,lighting switch1 #bj1 #aji ,lighting system1 rules for locating troubles in1 #cad ,lights dim1 what makes the1 #bhc ,linings1 brake1 can be ruined1 #ie2 oil on1 #if2 wear thin1 #ih2 when necessary to replace1 #ih ,linkage1 brake1 #ae1 #ig ,links1 loose cross1 how to fasten1 #bga ,linseed oil1 use of1 in cleaning car1 #bda ,lubrication1 systems1 #af2 why needed1 #cc2 most common system1 #cd2 troubles1 #ce2 necessity of frequent inspection1 #cf2 needed in many minor places1 #ci2 steering knuckles1 #dj2 universal joint1 #dj2 clutch and brake levers1 self-starter and accelerator1 #da2 spring shackles1 #db2 wheel bearings1 #dc2 spring leaves1 valve push-rod guides1 overhead valves1 #dd2 of brakes important1 #ig2 system how made and supplied1 its care1 #afd2 in cold weather1 #aie2 proper oil necessary1 #aie2 heavier grease needed in summer1 #bjg2 inspect before touring1 #bdf2 time table1 #cab ,lubricants1 poor1 cause knocking1 #bfj ,m ,magnetic field1 distortion of1 #aag ,magneto1 high-tension1 systems1 #ae2 ignition1 #aaf2 manipulation of spark lever when using1 #aih2 coupling causes knocking1 #bei2 trouble1 instance of1 #bia2 rules for timing1 #caj ,manifold1 intake1 #af2 leaky1 #fc2 loose1 #fd 8,mechanicien0 ,french term for driver of a car1 #cba ,mechanics1 careless1 #bfi ,misfiring1 #fc ,mixing chamber1 #bc ,mixture1 #ag2 rich and lean1 #ba2 proper1 #ef2 thin1 #fc1 #ff2 weak1 #fd2 anti-freezing1 #afd1 #afe2 warming device1 necessary in winter1 #ahf2 too rich or too lean calls attention to other parts which are causing knocking1 #beh ,motor1 see ,engine ,motor1 starting1 see ,self-starter ,motorist1 absent-mindedness in--bad habit1 #bhe1 #bhf1 #bhg ,motoring1 future of1 depends upon behavior of motorists toward the public1 #cbj 8,motorman0 best term for driver of an automobile1 #cba ,mud1 dried1 how to remove from car1 #bda ,muffler1 purpose of1 #ae2 often neglected or misused1 #adc2 its uses1 and advantages1 #adc1 #add2 original object of the cut-out1 #add2 cut-out now prohibited and unnecessary1 #ade2 needs careful attention1 #ade2 clogging prevents escape of gases1 and brings loss of power1 #ade1 #adf2 instance of bad effect of clogging1 #adf2 usually no provision made for inspection1 #adg2 kerosene clogs1 #adg2 special information sometimes necessary1 #adh ,multiple disc clutch1 #ah ,n ,neatsfoot oil for harsh gripping clutch1 #caj1 #caa1 #cab ,needle valve1 #eb1 #fc1 #bgf2 adjust at low speed1 #cji ,nitrogen in gasoline fumes1 #bbd ,noise1 in the chassis1 #bfb2 from torque rod1 from worn brake rods1 from worn spring-shackle bolts1 #bfd2 from worn steering knuckle-pins1 #bfe2 from tools and accessories1 #bfe2 from broken gear teeth and other parts1 #bfe ,non-skid1 tires1 #ha1 #hd1 #he2 chains1 #ha1 #hb2 devices1 which to use under various conditions1 #he2 chains often drop links1 #bgj ,nuts1 tighten before touring1 #bdh2 absence of1 cause squeaks1 #bfi2 examination of1 #bfi2 must know location of1 #bga ,o ,oil1 effect of absence of1 in lubrication1 #cf2 things which wear it out and make necessary to replace1 #cf1 #cg2 how often to drain out1 #cg2 things which affect its lubricating value1 #cg2 in the combustion chamber1 #dh2 how to prevent1 #di2 waste of1 through leakage1 #fe2 affects tires1 #gb1 #afe2 on the brake lining1 cause1 results1 how to prevent1 #if2 examine supply of1 before leaving garage1 #aeg1 #cjh2 proper1 necessary for cold weather1 #aie2 take car maker's advice1 #aif2 on fan belts1 #bjj2 remove from exterior of engine1 #bch2 carry reserve supply when touring1 #bdf2 lack of1 causes knocking1 #bfj2 excess of1 causes knocking1 #bfj2 necessary to keep engine running1 #bgc ,oil feed sight1 #bj ,oil level1 how to correct when too high1 #di ,oil pump1 #cd1 #ce ,oil the car1 when to1 #caa1 #cab ,oiled roads dangerous1 #ij2 necessary to take at low speed1 #ib2 during summer season1 #bjg ,outlet valves1 #bb ,overheating1 caused by sediment in radiator1 #aii2 rarely caused by pump1 #bja2 caused by careless stretching of hose1 #bja2 caused by carbon in engine1 #bjb ,over-inflation of tire1 in hot weather1 instance of1 #bjc2 makes riding uncomfortable1 #baa ,owner1 originality1 initiative1 and ingenuity of1 important1 #i2 should learn how to do many things himself1 #bjb ,p ,pail1 folding1 #bi ,parts dropped in streets1 #bfh1 #bfi2 lost1 puncture tires1 #bgj ,passengers1 drive for the comfort of1 #afi ,passing others1 blowing horn while1 #big1 #bih ,pedals1 gear-shifting1 #bj2 starting1 #bj1 #aeh1 #bhh2 brake1 #bj1 #aeh2 clutch1 #bj1 #aeh2 accelerator1 #bj1 #afj1 #afh2 reverse1 #ie ,pedestrians have right of way everywhere1 #bif 8,pep10 #ef ,petcocks1 #bgd ,pin1 tie rod1 #bgj ,pipe1 exhaust1 #ae2 exhaust1 may set fire to car1 #bae1 #baf2 attach to exhaust in garage1 to lead fumes to outer air1 #bbg ,pipe lines1 clogged1 cause knocking1 #bfj ,pipes1 leaky supply1 #fe2 to prevent bursting of1 #aic ,piston head1 hole punched in1 by valve head1 #bgd ,piston rings1 #af2 grooving and drilling to release surplus oil1 #di2 leaky1 #ec1 #ed2 to prevent working around1 #fg2 loose1 cause knocking1 #bei2 carbon in1 #bgb ,pistons1 #af2 too small1 cause knocking1 #bei ,pliers1 carry while touring1 #bdi ,plug1 spark1 #ag2 cracks or porosity in1 #aai2 carry extra set while touring1 #bdi2 to test in case of trouble1 #bgg ,policemen1 don't run away from1 #aj ,power1 stroke1 #ag2 how connected to wheels1 #ah2 how secured in engine1 #bb2 necessity of pressure to get1 #bb2 proper1 from each cylinder1 #fa ,pre-ignition1 caused by increase of pressure in combustion chamber1 #beb2 causes knocking1 #bfj ,premium on fire insurance lower when extinguishers carried1 #bah ,pressure1 necessity of1 for power1 #bb2 on tires increases in hot weather1 #bjd2 on tires test for increase in1 in hot weather1 #baj2 proper for tires1 #baa1 #bab2 in combustion chamber1 #bea ,pressure fuel system1 #af1 #afc ,priming1 how done1 #afc2 in cold weather1 #aid ,propeller-shaft bearings1 #aed ,pump1 oil1 #cd1 #ce2 overheating rarely caused by1 #bjj2 parts of1 cause knocking1 #bfj ,pump type of cooling system1 #ae ,puncture caused by lost parts1 #bgj ,push-rod adjustment causes knocking1 #bei ,push-rods1 clearance between valve stems and1 causes trouble1 #bij ,r ,radiator1 location of1 #ae2 examine1 before leaving garage1 #aeg2 sediment in1 #afd1 #aii2 to remedy discharge of steam from1 #afe2 adjustable device to regulate admittance of air1 #ahi2 covers1 #ahi1 #aie2 cover partly or wholly in cold weather1 #ahh1 #ahi2 if covered1 improved efficiency of engine1 #aij2 bursting of1 to prevent1 #aic2 water boiling in1 #aih2 clogged1 causes knocking1 #bfj ,radius rods1 #ac ,railway crossings1 extra care necessary1 #ahj ,rattles1 causes of1 #bfi ,reverse the car1 how to1 #afi ,reverse pedal1 use of1 as a brake1 #ie ,reversing1 shifting of gears in1 #acf ,rings1 piston1 #af1 #di1 #ec1 #ed1 #fg ,rivets of brake lining1 #ih ,road rules1 of ,y4 ,m4 ,c4 ,a41 #aef2 local1 must be obeyed1 #agc ,roads1 oiled1 dangerous1 #ij2 necessary to take at low speed1 #ib2 generally sprinkled or oiled during summer season1 #bjg ,roads1 signs along1 importance of1 #ij2 parts found along1 #bfi ,roadway1 crown of the1 causes slipping1 #hg1 #ij ,rod1 radius1 #ac2 torque1 #ac1 #bfd2 tie1 #ad1 #aja1 #ajf1 #ajg2 connecting1 #ag1 #fh ,rotary motion1 how obtained1 #ag ,rubber hose decomposed by glycerin in freeze-proof solution1 #aib ,rules1 importance of following1 #h1 #i1 #aj2 miscellaneous1 #cjh ,running brake1 #aeh ,s ,safety devices1 best necessary1 #hi ,salt in freeze-proof solution1 #aib ,schools1 automobile1 manufacturers' for purchasers1 #c1 #g2 danger of being taught at inefficient or fraudulent institutions1 #cbd ,screws1 absence of1 causes squeaks1 #bfi ,secondary current absorbed by carbon1 #aai ,sediment1 in battery causing short-circuit1 #abf2 in radiator1 #afd1 #aii ,self-starter1 pedal1 #bj2 lubrication of1 #da2 types of1 #abh2 bearings1 #aec ,service stations1 #g ,shaft1 crank1 #ag2 drive1 #ai2 rear1 in driving causes click1 #bfb ,shifting gears1 #acc2 on hills1 #bbi2 on an up grade1 #bca2 starting uphill1 #bca2 choice of gears1 #bcb2 avoid straining car1 #bcb1 #bcc2 descending hills1 #bcc1 #bcd ,short circuiting1 causes fires1 #bag2 causes knocking1 #bei ,shut-off valve1 #bge ,sight oil feed1 #bj ,signs along the road1 importance of1 #ij ,skidding1 #gf2 effects of1 on car1 #gg2 in winter1 #gg2 turning corners1 #gh2 rear wheel1 how to stop1 #gi2 street-car tracks1 #hj2 uneven brakes1 #hf1 #hh2 unequal distribution of weight1 #ha2 best prevented by care1 #hb1 #hc2 due mostly to excessive speed1 #hf2 caused by crown of road1 #hg2 by turning corners at high speed1 by sharp turn of steering-wheel1 #hg2 stopped by turning steering-wheel1 #hh ,skipping sometimes overcome by enriching the mixture1 #aij ,smoke1 its sources1 #df2 remedies1 #dg1 #dh1 #di2 how to tell from what it comes1 #ej2 black1 #fh ,soap1 not to be used on polished surfaces of car1 #bda ,spark1 #ag2 why advanced and retarded and how1 #bc2 intensity of1 increased by gap in secondary circuit1 #aab2 has more kick1 #aaf2 very weak1 perhaps caused by condenser1 #aba2 use of1 in hill-climbing1 #aga2 retarded1 uses unnecessary gasoline1 and overheats engine1 #aih2 greatly retarded indirectly causes fires1 #baf2 retard to prevent knocking on hills1 #bca2 over advanced does not cause knocking1 #beh2 too late causes knocking1 #bei2 at right time1 necessary to start engine1 #bgc2 test for in case of trouble1 #bgf2 fully retarded1 #cjh2 advance two-thirds1 #cji ,spark-control bearings1 #aec ,spark lever1 #ai1 #afa1 #aih ,spark plugs1 #ag2 widening gaps of1 to prevent engine missing1 #aag2 insulating surface inside cylinder1 #aah2 cracks in1 insulation1 #aai2 testing of1 #abj2 short-circuited by carbon1 #abj2 keep free from oil and grease1 #bch2 carry when touring1 #bdi2 points of1 cause knocking1 #bei1 #bfj2 carbon between points of1 #bgb2 how to test in case of trouble1 #bgg ,sparking at commutator1 #bhc ,sparks from commutators cause fires1 #bba ,speed1 how to shift gears in increasing or decreasing1 #acc1 #acd1 #ace2 of engine1 learn to judge by sound1 #afg2 running at extreme1 cause of fires1 #bae ,speeds1 number of1 in gears1 #ah ,spindles1 #ad ,splash lubrication1 #af2 pan1 #cd ,sponge1 use of1 in cleaning car1 #bdj ,spray nozzle1 #bge ,spray valve1 #fc ,spring leaves1 lubrication of1 #dd ,spring repair attachments1 #bdh ,spring-shackle bolts sometimes make noise1 #bfd ,spring shackles1 lubrication of1 #db ,springs1 examine before touring1 #bdh ,squeaks1 causes of1 #bfi ,stalling engine1 how caused1 #afg2 what to do1 on a hill1 #agb ,starter1 switch1 trouble in1 #bhj2 a great convenience1 but a source of trouble1 #bha1 #bhb2 pedal sticking1 instance of1 #bhh2 makes automobile available to women1 #cjb ,starting1 motor1 #af2 pedal1 #bj1 #aeh2 systems1 types1 #abh2 crank1 #aeg2 engine1 three things necessary1 #bgc ,steam1 from exhaust in cold weather1 #ej2 to remedy discharge from radiator1 #afe ,steering1 of automobile compared with steering of different type of boats1 #ajb2 with broken tie rod1 #ajf1 #ajg ,steering gear1 out of true1 #ga2 bearings1 #aed ,steering knuckles1 #ad2 lubrication in1 #dj ,steering-shaft1 worm on1 #ai ,steering tie rod1 #aja ,steering wheel1 #ai1 #afb ,stop1 how to1 #afh ,storage battery1 #ae ,stove1 supplied by many manufacturers to heat air before it enters carburetor1 #ahg2 may be dispensed with in hot weather1 #bjf ,strain1 how taken off knuckle pins1 #ajd ,streets1 how to turn in narrow1 #afi2 driving in congested1 #agc ,strokes1 suction1 compression1 power1 and exhaust1 #ag ,suburbs of any city1 the place for automobiling1 #cjc ,suction stroke of engine1 #ag ,sump1 #cd ,supply pipes1 leaky1 #fe ,switch1 lighting1 #bj1 #aji2 ignition1 #bj1 #afb2 self-starter1 trouble in1 #bhj2 thrown to battery position1 #cjh ,system1 importance of1 in locating trouble1 #i2 a process of elimination1 #bgc ,systems1 cooling1 kinds1 #ae2 ignition1 kinds1 #ae2 lubrication1 kinds1 #af2 fuel supply1 kinds1 #af1 #afc ,t ,talc ,french1 for slipping clutch1 #caj ,tank1 fuel supply1 #af2 gasoline1 #afb2 water1 #afd ,tape1 tire1 carry1 while touring1 #bdi ,temperature1 high1 to the boiling point of water1 but for efficiency of engine1 #ahi ,terminals1 electric1 testing of1 #aji ,tests for electrical troubles1 examples of1 #aji ,thermo-syphon type of cooling system1 #ae ,things to do1 four before leaving garage1 #cjh2 five1 before cranking engine1 #cjh2 three after cranking1 #cji ,throttle1 purpose1 #bc2 use of1 in hill-climbing1 #aga2 open1 in starting1 #cjh2 close1 till engine idles1 #cji ,throttle bearings1 #aec ,throttle lever1 its use1 where placed1 how operated1 #ai1 #bj1 #afa ,tie rod1 must not be bent1 #ad1 #aja2 broken1 #ajf1 #ajg ,tie rod pin1 #bgj ,timing1 correct1 #bd ,timing gears1 to adjust1 #cji ,timing gear teeth cause knocking1 #bei ,timing1 ignition1 wrong1 causes knocking1 #bfj ,tire pressure1 tests of increase due to running in hot weather1 #baj ,tire repair materials1 carry1 while touring1 #bdi ,tire-valve tool1 #cj ,tires1 purpose and location1 #ai2 abuse of1 #ei1 #fj2 deterioration of1 #fi2 cuts in1 #gj2 affected by steering gear1 #ga2 by clutch1 #ga2 by brakes1 #gb2 by oil1 grease1 gasoline1 and wet weather1 #gb2 general cost of1 #gc2 storing1 in winter1 #gd2 porosity of1 #ge2 keep clean1 #ge2 non-skid1 #ha1 #hd1 #he1 #hf2 examine1 before leaving garage1 #aeg2 how to care for1 #afe2 expand in hot weather1 #bjd2 pressure test of1 after hot weather running1 #bje2 under-inflation and over-inflation1 #bje2 inflated too hard make riding uncomfortable1 #baa2 weakened from any cause blow-out quicker1 #baa2 proper pressure for1 #baa1 #bab2 extra1 carry on car1 #bdi2 puncture caused by lost parts1 #bgj ,tool for tire valves1 #cj ,tools1 furnished with car1 #bf2 for emergencies1 #bg2 too many better than too few1 #bg2 additional1 desirable1 #bh2 to be carried on car1 #aeg ,tops1 how to clean and care for1 #bdb ,torque rod1 #ac2 causes knocks1 #bfd ,touring1 what to do before1 #bdd2 refill gear case1 #bde2 examine gears1 #bde2 drain1 clean1 and refill crank case1 #bde2 attend to lubrication1 #bdf2 carry extra oil1 grease and gasoline on car1 #bdf2 examine brakes1 #bdf2 keep brake drums free from oil1 #bdg2 have carbon removed1 #bdg2 tighten nuts and inspect all parts1 #bdh2 test compression1 grind in valves1 inspect ignition system1 recharge battery1 dry cells should be carried1 examine springs1 #bdh2 things which should be carried1 #bdi ,tow rope1 #ca2 fastened to post and rear wheel1 #hf2 carry while touring1 #bdi ,traffic1 driving in1 #agc2 rules give pedestrian right of way1 #bif2 rules should be taught by auto schools1 #cbe ,transmission1 #acj2 rules for care of1 #caa ,transmission gear bearings1 #aed ,trolley crossings1 extra care necessary1 #ahb ,trouble1 hunting must be systematic1 #bgb2 a process of elimination1 #bgc2 the first thing to do1 #bgc2 indications when engine turns over easily or hard1 #bgc2 compression tests1 #bgc1 #bgd2 exhaust valves1 #bgd2 inlet valve1 #bgd2 inspect gasoline1 #bge2 inspect carburetor1 #bge2 inspect ignition system1 #bgf2 #bgg1 #cad2 chart1 ,y4 ,m4 ,c4 ,a41 #bgi2 in the self-starter switch1 #bhj2 caused by added conveniences1 #bhj1 #bha2 necessary to almost dismantle complex types of engines1 #bha2 made by starter1 #bha1 #bhb2 made by electric lights and accessories1 #bhb2 by complicated electric systems and wiring1 #bhb1 #bhc1 #bhd ,tubes1 how to keep1 #gc2 carry extra while touring1 #bdi ,turn buckle1 #ad ,turn1 in narrow streets1 how to1 #afi2 corners1 how to1 #agj ,turning1 blowing horn when1 #big ,u ,universal joints1 #ai1 #dj ,upholstery1 protect with slip covers1 #bdc ,v ,vacuum fuel supply1 #af1 #afd ,valve head1 punches hole in piston head1 #bgd ,valve push-rod guides enclosed in housings1 #dd2 lubrication of1 #dd ,valve-stems1 clearance between push rods and1 causes trouble1 #bij ,valve1 needle1 #eb1 #fc1 #bgf1 #cji2 spray1 #fc2 sticking causes knocking1 #bei2 auxiliary air1 #bge1 #cji2 shut off1 #bge ,valves inlet1 #ag1 #bb2 outlet1 #bb2 overhead1 lubrication of1 #dd2 leaky1 #ed1 #ff2 carbonized1 #fg1 #bgb1 #bgd2 exhaust1 #beg2 inlet1 #bgd ,vaporization of gasoline absorbs much heat1 #ahg2 best in cold weather when stove and water jacket are both used1 #ahh ,velocipede1 setting of wheel compared with automobile1 #aje ,vibration1 effects of1 #fe ,voltmeter1 #aji ,w ,washers1 supply to all nuts before touring1 #bdh2 absence of1 causes squeaks1 #bfi2 lock1 #bgj ,washing automobile1 what to use1 how to do it1 #age ,waste1 carry on car1 #cj2 packed around battery has caused fires1 #bag ,water1 in cylinder and crank case1 #fh2 where placed1 its care1 #afd2 boiling in radiator1 #aih2 evaporates from battery quicker in hot weather1 #bjf2 of no use in fighting gasoline fires1 #bbb2 running1 should be used in cleaning car whenever possible1 #bdb2 needed1 #bgc2 take on before leaving garage1 #cjh ,water jacket1 on mixing chamber of gasoline1 #ahg2 to prevent bursting of1 #aic ,wet weather affects tires1 #gb ,wheel1 fly1 #ag2 steering1 #ai1 #afb ,wheels1 how front are made to converge and undergather1 #ad2 how power is connected to1 #ah2 why not parallel1 #aja1 #ajb1 #ajc2 set to undergather1 #ajd2 setting of1 compared with bicycle1 #aje ,wheel bearings1 lubrication of1 #dc ,wind sometimes cools the engine too much when traveling against1 #aij ,wire1 spool of1 #ca2 extra wire for additional device1 #aaa2 carry while touring1 #bdi2 to fasten cross link1 #bga ,wire gauze1 #eb ,wire terminals1 keep free from oil and grease1 #bch ,wires to plugs1 inspect1 in case of trouble1 #bgg ,wiring diagram1 knowledge of1 important1 #aae ,wobbling1 tendency to overcome by converging of wheels1 #ajc ,women as drivers1 #cjj2 ,eastern and ,western compared1 #cjb2 as apt as men at mastering details1 #cjc2 at ,y4 ,m4 ,c4 ,a4 ,auto ,school1 #cjc2 all types1 pupils1 #cjd2 take cars apart and assemble them1 #cje2 road instruction for1 #cjf2 have the main qualities needed for drivers1 #cjg2 taking up the auto seriously1 #cjg ,wood1 block of1 to put under jack1 #cj ,worm on steering shaft1 #ai ,wrist pin1 out of line or loose1 causes knocking1 #bei ,y ,yokes1 #ad ,y4 ,m4 ,c4 ,a4 ,automobile ,school1 road rules1 #ef2 general trouble chart1 #bgi2 women as pupils1 #cjc