,transcrib]'s ,notes4 ,page #aj -- *ang$ ,%irrifs to ,%>ifs4 ,page #ag -- ,! ^w ,ti>a add$ to ,pope's ,ti 7,pope's ,ti>a74 ,! position+ ( ! #ag illu/rations has be5 *ang$ slightly to accommodate ea* "o betwe5 p>agraphs1 on e second page4 ,illu/ration ,copyright$1 #ahhe1 ,by ,r4 ,,dunlap ,,co4 ,,lockwood ,,press1 #abf #abh ,duane ,/41 ,new ,york4 ,illu/ration ,a ,,%ort ,,treatise ,,on 99 ,,head 99 ,,we> 99 ,,anci5t ,,& ,,mod]n1 ,,illu/rat$ ,,by ,walt] ,h4 ,goat]4 ,head ,we>1 ,anci5t & ,mod]n4 ,trac+ ! hi/ory ( man z f> back z we c "u civiliz$ conditions ( life1 we f9d t 9 "o =m or ano!r he has made use ( "s artificial contrivance to protect 8 head4 ,nature1 9 h] b\nty1 seems to h provid$ 9 "p aga9/ ! necessity ( ! hat1 by giv+ to ! head a ?ick & abundant cov]+ ( hair1 b1 in/ead ( consid]+ ?is z an indication t ! head requir$ no o!r protection1 mank9d seems r to h reg>d$ x z a h9t to keep ?is mo/ important "p ( ! body well cov]$4 ,! hat be+ ! mo/ conspicu\s article ( dress1 & surm\nt+ all ! re/1 x is only natural to f9d t f ! e>lie/ times special c>e & att5tion has be5 giv5 to its adornm5t--%[y plumes1 r>e jewels & ri* b&s ( gold & silv] be+ us$ at diff]5t p]iods to decorate x4 ,its =m & frequ5tly its color h also be5 made to designate ! rank & "* ( ! we>]3 ,z ! ,mon>* by 8 cr[n1 ! ,c>d9al by 8 r$ hat1 :i* betok5s 8 read9ess to spill 8 blood at any "t = ! sake ( ,*ri/1 & ! c\rt fool by 8 cap ) bells4 ,9 "o =m x s]ves to designate ! milit>y (fic]1 9 ano!r ! peaceful ,quak] or ! quiet man ( lett]s4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig #a4 ,fig #b4 ,fig #c4 ,fig #d4 ,fig #e4 ,fig #f4 ,fig #g4 ,! mat]ials employ$ 9 ! manufacture ( hats h be5 v>i\s1 /uffs ( e k9d & color hav+ ent]$ into _! composition4 ,! birds h be5 robb$ ( _! brilliant plumage1 ! bea/s ( ! field ( _! wool & hair4 ,amphibi\s creatures h yield$ _! fur1 :ile ! m9es ( ! e>? h giv5 up preci\s metals & /ones4 ,all ^! h be5 us$ by man to make a suitable cov]+ = 8 augu/ head4 ,felt hats are by f> ! mo/ anci5t1 silk hats be+ ( q rec5t introduction4 ,!y 7 kn[n 9 ,flor5ce ab\t a c5tury ago1 b 7 n introduc$ into ,france until #ahbe4 ,tradition ascribes ! discov]y ( felt+ to ,/4 ,clem5t4 ,x occurr$ 9 ?is mann]3 ,:ile on "o ( 8 *>ity missions1 becom+ we>y & foot-sore1 he took (f 8 s&als to ease 8 feet1 :i* 7 all bruis$ f long walk+ ov] r\gh roads4 ,:ile re/+ by ! wayside an opportunity 0 af=d$ him ( rescu+ a little lamb f ! cruel clut*es ( a wily fox t 0 pursu+ x4 ,! grateful little creature jump$ r\nd him & lick$ 8 h& = joy1 & x 0 9 fondl+ x t ,/4 ,clem5t obs]v$ "s loose wool1 :i* he ga!r$4 ,:ile c>elessly h&l+ x ! ?\ght sudd5ly /ruck him t x w\ld be good to b9d up ! w\nds on 8 feet )4 ,no soon] 0 x ?\ght ?an done1 & he f\nd x s soo?+ t he imm$iately resum$ 8 j\rney4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig #h4 ,fig #i4 ,fig #aj4 ,fig #aa4 ,fig #ab4 ,fig #ac4 ,fig #ad4 ,fig #ae4 ,at night :5 he came to remove 8 s&als he 0 surpris$ to f9d1 in/ead ( f9e1 s(t wool1 a piece ( clo?1 s firm & ?ick t he c\ld n pull x ap>t4 ,?is 0 call$ felt1 & ,/4 ,clem5t 0 made ! patron sa9t ( ! craft4 7,h[ev]1 x is only fair to /ate t1 accord+ to "s au?orities1 !re is abundant evid5ce to %[ t felt+ 0 kn[n to ! anci5ts long be=e ! "t ( ,/4 ,clem5t or ! ,*ri/ian era47 99 99 99 99 99 ,! mo/ anci5t =m ( head we> we f9d to be ! cap su* z is se5 on figures repres5t+ ! goddess ( lib]ty4 ,hoods1 also1 ( v>i\s %apes1 date back long be=e hats appe>$1 ! latt] = a long "t only be+ employ$ z an article ( extra clo?+ 9 w9t]1 worn ov] ! hood or :5 go+ on a j\rney4 99 99 99 99 99 ,among ! anci5t ,egyptians v peculi> %ap$ caps 7 worn1 l f ,figures #a to #g4 ,"s ( !m w\ld rise to a great height above ! head1 & !n desc5d v l[ ^u ! *e/ 9 ! %ape ( lappets4 ,^? ( ! prie/s & ( _! att5dants 7 (t5 load$ ) a pr(usion ( symbolical decorations1 compos$ ( fea!rs1 lotus leaves & o!r natural products4 ,9 religi\s processions x 0 common to we> masks t cov]$ ! :ole head & neck d[n to ! %\ld]s4 ,^! repres5t$ ! heads & bu/s ( v>i\s sacr$ animals1 su* z ! ibis1 hawk1 bull1 dog & ram4 99 99 99 99 99 ,illu/ration3 ,fig #af4 ,fig #ag4 ,fig #ah4 ,figs #ai #bj4 ,fig #ba4 ,fig #bb4 ,fig #bc4 ,our mod]n hat c be trac$ back to ! pileus worn by ! anci5t ,greeks :5 on a j\rney4 ,hats ) brims 7 also worn by !m1 ?\gh "s au?orities claim t ! ,greek citiz5 ( mature ye>s nev] wore a head-cov]+1 x be+ conf9$ to y\?s1 workm5 & slaves4 ,! pileus 0 a closely-fitt+ wool5 skull-cap1 :i* 0 sometimes worn z a l9+ to ! helmet4 ,x 0 adopt$ by ! ,romans at _! public games & fe/ivals by ^? :o _h once be5 slaves1 & by ! ag$ & infirm = sake ( w>m?4 ,f anci5t co9s & m$als we f9d t ! ,romans w5t b>ehead$1 except at sacr$ rites1 games1 fe/ivals1 & :5 at w>4 ,baldness 0 look$ ^u by !m z a great de=mity1 & ,cs>1 mighty conqu]or ?\gh he 01 yet c\ld n make nature add "o s+le hair to 8 v scanty supply1 is said to h priz$ ! honor ( we>+ a laurel cr[n above all ! o!r dignities conf]r$ ^u him by ! s5ate1 z x s]v$ to conceal 8 weakness4 ,9 ! city1 to scre5 !mselves f ! heat1 ra9 or w9d1 ! ,romans frequ5tly ?rew ! folds ( _! robe ov] _! heads1 b if !y met any "o to :om !y ow$ respect1 !y imm$iately let ! folds drop & rema9$ b>ehead$4 ,figs4 #aj & #ab are specim5s ( anci5t ,greek helmets1 :ile ,fig4 #aa repres5ts a "y w>rior equipp$ = battle4 ,fig4 #h %[s ! petasus1 n greatly unlike our t5nis hat ( to-day4 ,fig4 #ad is ! ,phrygian bonnet1 :i* held its own = s _m c5turies4 99 99 99 99 99 ,illu/ration3 ,fig #bd4 ,fig #be4 ,fig #bf4 ,fig #bg4 ,fig #bh4 ,fig #bi4 ,fig #cj4 ,! inhabitants ( ,ea/]n nations always h _! heads cov]$4 ,9 ,*9a ! m5 we> hats 9 %ape & size resembl+ l>ge umbrellas1 l ,figs4 #ah & #bc1 or else small conical caps simil> to ,fig4 #ag4 ,^! are made ( beautifully wr\ght cane-"w & (t5 h pictures ( birds & fl[]s pa9t$ ^u !m4 ,!y also h ano!r cap1 :i* ?\gh ri*] 9 mat]ial is n s graceful4 ,x is simil> 9 %ape to ,fig4 #bb1 made ( black velvet ) a blue silk c5tre & a r$ tassel surm\nt+ ! top4 ,! di/9ctive m>k ( diff]5t ranks among ! m&>9s consi/s 9 ! color & value ( ! button worn on ! cap4 ,figs4 #ai & #bj %[ ! peculi> head-dress worn by ! ,japanese :5 go+ =? to battle4 ,9 ,arabia1 not)/&+ ! heat ( ! climate1 ! m5 we> a mo/ prepo/]\s head-dress4 ,frequ5tly fifte5 clo? or l95 caps are worn "o ov] ! o!r1 ! upp] "o be+ gorge\sly embroid]$ 9 gold ) a s5t5ce f ! ,koran work$ ^u x4 ,n satisfi$ ) ?is curi\s coiffure !y add to x by wrapp+ ar\nd ! out] cap a l>ge piece ( musl9 ornam5t$ at ! ends ) silk or gold5 fr+e1 :i* /ream loosely on ! %\ld]s4 ,a plume ( :ite h]on's fea!rs is ! di/9ctive badge ( a *ief among ! ,uzbek ,t>t>s4 ,?r\gh\t ! ,ea/ ! turban is g5]ally worn1 its height be+ a m>k to d5ote ! rank ( ! we>]4 ,9 color x is g5]ally ( ! mo/ brilliant hue1 & ( ri*ly embroid]$ mat]ials4 ,great ta/e & +5uity are ex]cis$ 9 ! mann] ( twi/+ x ar\nd ! head s z to make ! folds appe> z graceful z possible4 ,! diff]5t turbans on page #i give "s idea ( ! v>i\s %apes !y c be made to assume4 ,emirs or ,%>ifs1 desc5dants ( ,mohamm$'s daught]1 are alone all[$ ! high honor ( adorn+ _! heads ) gre5 turbans4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig #ca4 ,fig #cb4 ,fig #cc4 ,fig #cd4 ,fig #ce4 ,fig #cf4 ,on page #aa we h "s types ( ,african head-dress1 ,figs4 #ca1 #cb & #cd %[+ :at ! natives ( t d>k cont95t h done = !mselves 9 ! way ( head adornm5t1 entirely unaid$ by fa%ion or ! k ( :at _! bro!rs 9 o!r p>ts ( ! _w 7 we>+4 ,fig4 #cc1 ?\gh ( ,asiatic orig9 & f9] workman%ip1 is q z grotesque 9 design z any?+ ! wild tribes ( ,africa c\ld devise4 ,at "o "t ! ,turks _h a law by :i* none b !mselves c\ld we> turbans ( ri* texture4 ,_! ,greek subjects 7 condemn$ to we> d>k cotton caps z a m>k ( _! s]vitude4 ,arm5ians 7 compell$ to appe> 9 ridicul\s-look+ balloon-%ap$ caps1 :ile ! ,jews 7 only p]mitt$ to we> brimless caps resembl+ inv]t$ fl[]-pots4 ,lat] on1 ! ,sultan issu$ a decree t all ( 8 subjects %\ld we> a r$ fez in/ead ( _! turbans4 ,?is law 0 receiv$ ) ! mo/ det]m9$ & indignant opposition4 ,s obnoxi\s to _! feel+s 0 ?is *ange1 t ! discont5t$ p>ty set fire to ! h\ses ( all ^? :o favor$ x1 & ?\gh f9ally ! ,sultan's wi%es pass$ into a law1 x 0 ye>s be=e _m ( 8 subjects became reconcil$ to x4 ,fig4 #dj %[s a turban worn by "o ( ! ,sultans2 ,fig4 #da1 ! fez ( ! p4 ,figs4 #cg1 #ch1 #db & #dc on ! same page are samples ( ,russian hats4 ,9 "s p>ts ( t c\ntry ! head-cov]+ ( ! p is made ( bir* b>k & plait$ grasses2 b fur is ! mat]ial mo/ commonly us$4 ,! prevail+ male head-dress ( ! inhabitants ( ,asia ,m9or appe>s to be ! ,phrygian bonnet1 ( :i* ! *>act]i/ic features ) !m are its po9t on top1 b5t =w>d1 & its long flaps desc5d+ on ! %\ld]s4 ,?is /yle ( hat 0 worn = _m c5turies1 & travel$ z f> we/ z ,v5ice1 :]e ! ,doge always wore "o4 99 99 99 99 99 ,illu/ration3 ,fig #cg4 ,fig #ch4 ,fig #ci4 ,fig #dj4 ,fig #da4 ,fig #db4 ,fig #dc4 ,z a "p ( def5sive armor ! hat became ! helmet1 :i* has *ang$ b little 9 %ape f ! e>lie/ times4 ,v elaborate & fanta/ic 7 "s ( ! e>ly =ms1 ) _! d\ble or two-/ory heads1 ,figs4 #df & #dg1 to give ! impression ( increas$ height4 ,! workman%ip1 also1 0 v beautiful1 "s ( ! anci5t helmets be+ entirely cov]$ ) *as+ & designs ( ! mo/ intricate "*4 ,) ! ,greeks & ,romans ! subject ( armor 0 "o ( importance1 & f _! anci5t monum5ts we c le>n mu* ( _! =m & beauty4 ,page #ae %[s sev]al k9ds ( helmets worn dur+ ! middle ages4 99 99 99 99 99 ,9 ,spa9 s]i\s di/urbances took place 9 ,madrid 9 ! eighte5? c5tury ov] an attempt be+ made to bani% ! sombr]o4 ,:ile 9 o!r c\ntries ! fa%ion ( hats has be5 und]go+ *anges1 9 ,spa9 ! same %apes are worn ye> aft] ye>1 ) b little modification4 ,page #ai1 ) ! exception ( ,figs4 #eb & #ec1 :i* are ,mexican1 %[ sev]al =ms ( ,spani% hats4 ,fig4 #ea is ! /yle commonly worn by ! prie/s :5 travel+ ab\t4 ,page #ba gives "s ,g]man types2 ,fig4 #fa is ! hat ( a judge2 ,figs4 #eh1 #fj & #fb are milit>y hats1 :ile ,fig4 #fc %[s a ,teutonic fool's cap decorat$ ) bells4 99 99 99 99 99 ,illu/ration3 ,fig #dd4 ,fig #de4 ,fig #df4 ,fig #dg4 ,fig #dh4 ,fig #di4 ,9 ,france ! clo?+ ( ! head has long be5 a subject ( special consid]ation1 & _m h be5 ! /yles t h emanat$ f !re4 ,at fir/1 z 9 mo/ ( ! o!r c\ntries m5tion$1 hoods 7 worn1 b :5 ,*>les ,,vii4 made 8 triumphal entry into ,r\51 9 #addi1 he wore a hat l9$ ) r$ velvet & surm\nt$ ) a ri* plume ( fea!rs4 ,f ?is date hats & caps became g5]al ?r\gh\t ,france4 ,a curi\s app5dage t 0 worn ) ! hat = _m ye>s 0 l ,fig4 #ff1 consi/+ ( a piece ( black /uff :i* 0 fa/5$ to "o side ( ! hat1 ! o!r end be+ ?r[n ov] ! left %\ld]4 ,?is b& 0 (t5 held 9 ! h& & ! hat all[$ to fall (f f ! head & re/ on ! back4 ,ano!r peculi> head-dress 0 ! ,capu*9 hood1 ,fig4 #fh4 ,?is _h a long po9t$ tail t hung d[n ! back1 & 9 front 0 button$ close up to ! *94 ,"s gallants twi/$ ! tails into all sorts ( fanta/ic =ms & c>elessly pois$ !m on ! top ( ! head4 ,) ! %av5 faces t 7 always worn ) ?is hood1 ! m5 all look$ v mu* l monks4 ,x 0 fe> ( ?is appe>ance t induc$ ,francis ,i4 to set ! fa%ion ( velvet caps 9 8 k+dom4 ,fig4 #fg repres5ts a ,fr5* milit>y hat4 ,= ! pa/ fifty ye>s ! high silk hat has be5 ! mo/ popul> /yle 9 ,france4 ,at "o "t !re 0 a law 9 ,france :i* compell$ all bankrupt ,jews to we> a gre5 hat1 s t p might avoid losses by trad+ ) !m4 ,! slang expression 8,d y see any?+ gre5 ab\t me10 is said to h d]iv$ its orig9 f ?is circum/ance4 99 99 99 99 99 ,illu/ration3 ,,russian4 ,,pr9ce ,,( ,,wales4 9999 ,,fr5*4 ,,pope',s ,,ti>a4 9999 ,,engli%4 9999 ,,sultan',s ,,ti>a4 ,,duke',s4 9999 ,,au/ria4 ,,g]man4 ,! e>ly ,anglo-,saxons = ye>s wore no o!r cov]+ = _! heads ?an _! long fl[+ hair1 :i* !y s$ul\sly cultivat$4 ,:5 !y did take to a cov]+1 ab\t ! eigh? c5tury1 x 0 9 ! =m ( a cap made mo/ likely f ! undress$ sk9 ( animals4 ,! ,britons1 at ! "t ( ! invasion ( ,cs>1 wore on _! heads a conical hat1 :i* d]iv$ its "n f ! cab9 or hut 9 :i* !y liv$1 x /rongly resembl+ x 9 %ape4 ,helmets1 ) a project+ piece 9 front call$ a nasal1 7 worn by ! e>ly ,briton w>riors4 ,! nasal 0 aft]w>d disc>d$1 z x 0 f\nd to af=d too conv5i5t a hold to ! enemy ( ! we>]1 ,/eph51 at ! siege ( ,l9coln1 hav+ be5 seiz$ by ! nasal ( 8 helmet & held a prison]4 ,x 0 n until aft] ! ,norman conque/ t ! use ( hats became g5]al 9 ,engl&4 8,a hatte ( bev]0 0 worn by "s "o ( ! nobles met at ,cl>5don ab\t ! middle ( ! twelf? c5tury1 & 9 ! 8,cant]bury ,tales0 we he> m5tion ( ! m]*ant we>+ on 8 head a 8,flaund]i% bev] hat40 ,9 ! f\rte5? c5tury we f9d a v peculi> k9d ( head-ge> popul> 9 ,engl&1 ,figs4 #gj & #gb4 ,fir/1 on ! head is a close-fitt+ skull-cap1 :i* is encircl$ by a roll ( clo?1 flat l a b&1 or twi/$ turban-wise4 ,above is ano!r piece ( clo?1 cut & clipp$ ar\nd ! edges 9 all mann] ( que] %apes1 ! :ole fall+ ar\nd ! head 9 a confus$ mann]4 ,su* hoods 7 worn by ! anci5t ,knights ( ! ,g>t]1 & are said to h be5 borr[$ f ,italy4 ,x is 9 ?is same c5tury t = ! fir/ "t 9 ,engl& we f9d a fea!r 9 ! hat1 ,fig4 #ge4 ,x 0 /uck 9 p]fectly /raight 9 front1 z !y _h n z yet acquir$ any grace 9 its adju/m5t4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig #ej4 ,fig #ea4 ,fig #eb4 ,fig #ec4 ,fig #ed4 ,fig #ee4 ,fig #ef4 ,dur+ ! reign ( ,que5 ,elizabe? a great v>iety ( hats & caps 7 worn4 ,!y 7 mo/ly made ( velvet & ri*ly decorat$ ) jewels1 b&s ( gold or silv] lace & fea!rs4 ,a writ] ( t "t describes !m ?us3 8,!y we> !m %>pe on ! cr[ne1 peak+ up l ! spe>e or %aft ( a /eeple1 /&+ a qu>t] ( a y>d above ! cr[ne ( ! head4 ,"s o!rs are flatte & broade on ! cr[ne l ! battlem5ts ( a h\se4 ,ano!r sort h r\nd corn]s1 sometimes ) "o sort ( b&1 sometimes ano!r2 n[ black1 n[ :ite1 n[ russet1 n[ r$1 n[ gre51 n[ yell[1 n[ ?is1 n[ t--nev] cont5t ) "o color or fa%ion two days to an end2 & ?us !y sp5d ! ,"l's treasure consum+ _! gold5 ye>s & silv] days 9 wick$ness & s940 ,^? mu/ h be5 glori\s days = ! hatt] :5 ! fa%ions *ang$ s rapidly t m5 7 oblig$ to buy a new hat e two or ?ree days4 ,dur+ ?is same reign laws 7 made compell+ ! l[] classes to we> on ! ,sabba? a cap ( peculi> %ape & make4 ,! escape ( ,"l ,ni?sdale f ! ,t[]1 9 ! e>ly "p ( ! eighte5? c5tury1 0 pr9cipally effect$ by ! l>ge rid+-hoods worn at t "t1 :i* he put on1 along ) 8 wife's dress & cloak4 ,su* hoods 7 ev] aft] call$ ,ni?sdales4 ,on page #be are pictures ( "s ( ! e>ly =ms ( ,engli% hats4 ,figs4 #gf & #gh belong$ to ! cl]gy4 ,fig4 #gg is a ,scotti% bonnet4 99 99 99 99 99 ,illu/ration3 ,fig #eg4 ,fig #eh4 ,fig #ei4 ,fig #fj4 ,fig #fa4 ,fig #fb4 ,fig #fc4 ,! ,puritans disc>d$ all ornam5t ( any k9d f _! dress & wore ! /eeple hat1 high & n>r[ 9 ! cr[n1 ) a broad brim 7,fig4 #hc74 ,! ,cavali] ( ! same era wore a l[1 broad-cr[n$ hat ) a fea!r /uck on "o side4 ,! pr9cipal *anges t h tak5 place 9 hats f "t to "t h be5 9 ! height ( ! cr[n & 9 ! wid? ( ! brim4 ,z ?is latt] became wid] x l$ to ! device ( loop+ x up1 & ?us orig9at$ ! cock$ hat t 0 worn dur+ ! eighte5? c5tury4 ,to all ,am]icans ?is hat br+s patriotic recollections ( revolution>y days--= ,wa%+ton & 8 g5]als all wore cock$ hats4 ,on page #bg1 ,fig4 #he1 we h ! hat ( ! 8,m9ute ,man40 ,also "o worn1 ,fig4 #gi1 dur+ ! good old ,knick]bock] days4 ,fig4 #hd %[s ! /yle ( hat worn by ,kossu? :5 on a visit to ?is c\ntry 9 #ahea4 ,previ\s to ?is "t ! only hat made = g5tlem5 0 ! high silk hat & clo? caps = boys1 b a few weeks aft] ,kossu?'s appe>ance 9 ! c\ntry ?\s&s ( hats simil> to 8 7 sold1 ! dem& = !m be+ univ]sal4 ,s9ce !n s(t & /iff felt hats h be5 br\ght to p]fection 9 quality & /yle 9 ?is c\ntry f> sup]ior to any made abroad4 ,?is 0 %[n 9 our ,c5t5nial ,exhibition1 9 #ahgf1 by ,dunlap ,co4 receiv+ ! fir/ prize = _! productions ov] all competition ( =eign & dome/ic manufactures4 ,figs4 #hf1 #hg1 #hh are ?ree diff]5t /yles ( high hats worn ab\t fifty ye>s ago4 ,9 ! latt] "p ( ! eighte5? c5tury ! gaudy ornam5ts ( lace1 jewels1 fea!rs1 c41 gradually began to disappe> f hats1 giv+ place to ! sob] black b& & simple buckle1 & :5 t1 too1 _h its day & pass$ away1 ! hats ( m5 7 left )\t any ornam5t1 b 9 mu* bett] ta/e & m 9 keep+ ) _! use ?an 7 ^? ( old4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig #fd4 ,fig #fe4 ,fig #ff4 ,fig #fg4 ,fig #fh4 ,fig #fi4 ,hats h n only be5 us$ = ! practical purpose ( cov]+ ! head1 b f remote "t h play$ _! "p 9 _m important actions 9 life4 ,among ! ,romans ! hat 0 ! symbol ( lib]ty1 & slaves 7 pres5t$ ) "o on receiv+ _! fre$om4 ,! ,quak] hat dates f ! orig9 ( ! sect 9 ! middle ( ! sev5te5? c5tury1 ,fig4 #hj4 ,aft] ! assass9ation ( ,cs> co9s 7 issu$ by ,brutus & ,cassius1 on :i* 0 repres5t$ a cap betwe5 two dagg]s4 ,ev5 at a lat] p]iod ! hat or cap 0 id5tifi$ ) lib]ty z 9 ! republic ( ! ,ne!rl&s4 ,aft] ! emancipation f ,spa9 a hat became _! national emblem1 :ile we all "k ! "p ,gessl]'s hat play$ 9 ga9+ = ! ,swiss _! fre$om4 ,! common practice ( d(f+ ! hat :5 meet+ a fri5d is ?\ght to be a modification ( ! anci5t cu/om ( unclo?+ "s "p ( ! body :5 9 ! pres5ce ( "o to :om respect 0 due4 ,_m p]sons pr(ess t f ! dress alone !y c give y a true e/imate ( ! "* ( ! man4 ,:ile ?is is1 p]haps1 express+ x r /rongly1 x is c]ta9ly true t ! mat]ial & /yle ( "o's dress does1 to a l>ge degree1 d5ote ! we>]'s "*2 & especially is ?is s ( hats & ! mann] 9 :i* !y are worn4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig #gj4 ,fig #ga4 ,fig #gb4 ,fig #gc4 ,fig #gd4 ,fig #ge4 ,fig #gf4 ,fig #gg4 ,fig #gh4 ,! man ( ref9$ ta/es w always be f\nd to be v fa/idi\s 9 reg>d to 8 head we>1 buy+ only ! f9e/ quality ( hat1 :ile a co>se nature w be satisfi$ ) a *eap sl\* hat4 ,! prosp]\s bus9ess man also c g5]ally be pick$ out by 8 hat1 x be+ some?+ sub/antial & good ( its k9d1 :ile ! man ( mean & p>simoni\s habits w usually h a hat to correspond ) 8 dw>f$ nature4 8,h a good hat2 ! secret ( y\r looks ,lives ) ! beav] 9 ,canadian brooks2 ,virtue may fl\ri% 9 an old cravat1 ,b man & nature scorn ! %ock+ hat40 ,illu/ration3 ,fig #gi4 ,fig #hj4 ,fig #ha4 ,fig #hb4 ,fig #hc4 ,fig #hd4 ,fig #he4 ,fig #hf4 ,fig #hg4 ,fig #hh4 ,we h n[ foll[$ a few ( ! *anges t hats h und]gone f ! e>lie/ times to ! pres5t1 & w\ld br+ our rem>ks to a close ) a notice ( ! h\se ( ,r4 ,dunlap ,co41 :i* 0 f\nd$ by ,mr4 ,rob]t ,dunlap 9 #aheg1 :o op5$ a small /ore ,novemb] #ad1 at #eeg ,broadway1 betwe5 ,spr+ & ,pr9ce /reets1 & by orig9ality ( designs & sell+ ! f9e/ class ( hats1 he soon became ! popul> hatt] ( ! city4 ,two ye>s lat]1 9 #ahei1 ,mr4 ,p>an ,/ev5s1 ! ,napoleon ( hotel-keep]s1 induc$ ,mr4 ,dunlap to occupy a /ore "u ! ,fif? ,av5ue ,hotel1 :i* 0 j !n complet$1 & :o desir$ only ^? z t5ants :o sold ! be/ goods 9 _! l9e4 ,at ?is "t ! hotel1 situat$ at ! corn] ( ,tw5ty-?ird /reet & ,fif? av5ue1 0 consid]$ v f> up t[n1 & x 0 pr$ict$ t ,dunlap's v5ture w\ld be a failure2 b ! "y & ent]pris+ hatt] soon became ! lead+ hatt] ( ! c\ntry4 ,! firm rema9$ !re = twelve ye>s1 & !n remov$ to _! pres5t location1 at #agh & #ahj ,fif? av5ue4 ,f9d+ ! dem& = _! hats increas+ f ! resid5ts ( ,brooklyn1 ,j]sey ,city & surr\nd+ suburbs1 9 #ahgf !y mov$ _! /ore f #eeg to #agi ,broadway1 ne> ,cortl&t /reet1 z _! d[n-t[n /ore4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fall ,,/yles1 #ahhe4 ,no #eb4 ,no #eb4 ,no #ec4 ,no #ec4 ,,price ,,( ,,silk ,,hats1 #h4jj4 ,9 ,ord]+ give ,numb]4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fall ,,/yles1 #ahhe4 ,no #ef4 ,no #ed4 ,no #ee4 ,no #ee4 ,,/iff ,,hats1 ,,9 ,,black ,,& ,,br[n1 #e4jj4 ,9 ,ord]+ give ,numb]4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fall ,,/yles1 #ahhe4 ,no #eg ,,/iff4 ,no #eh ,,s(t4 ,no #ei ,,s(t4 ,no #eh ,,s(t4 ,,s(t ,,hats1 ,,9 ,,black ,,& ,,br[n4 ,9 ,ord]+ give ,numb] & /ate price ( ,hat desir$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fall ,,/yles1 #ahhe4 ,no #fc4 ,no #fj4 ,no #fa4 ,no #fb4 ,,s(t ,,pocket-,,hats1 ,,9 ,,black1 ,,br[n ,,& ,,blue4 ,9 ,ord]+ give ,numb]4 ,! popul>ity ( ! ,dunlap hat induc$ ! firm to increase _! manufactur+ facilities by ! erection ( a l>ge factory on ,sev5? av5ue1 ,new ,york1 :]e all ! silk & op]a hats are made1 & a /raw-hat factory at #acb & #acd ,s\? ,fif? av5ue1 ,new ,york1 & also ! erection ( "o ( ! l>ge/ & mo/ complete felt hat factories 9 ?is c\ntry at ! corn] ( ,p>k & ,no/r& av5ues1 ,brooklyn4 ,! gr[+ dem& = ^! hats 9 ! ,we/ induc$ ! firm to op5 a bran* /ore "u ! ,palm] ,h\se1 ,*icago1 ab\t ?ree ye>s ago1 :i* has prov$ a gr& success2 also1 q rec5tly1 !y h op5$ an elegant /ore on ,*e/nut /reet1 ,philadelphia4 ,besides _! own /ores 9 ,new ,york1 ,*icago & ,philadelphia1 _! celebrat$ hats are sold by au?oriz$ ag5ts 9 all ! pr9cipal cities ( ! ,unit$ ,/ates1 :]e ! patrons ( ! ,dunlap hat c pur*ase _! hats ( ! same /yle1 quality & price z sold by !m 9 _! own /ores4 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration