,transcriber's ,notes4 ,page #aj -- changed ,shirrifs to ,sharifs4 ,page #ag -- ,the word ,tiara added to ,pope's ,ti 7,pope's ,tiara74 ,the positioning of the #ag illustrations has been changed slightly to accommodate each one between paragraphs1 on every second page4 ,illustration ,copyrighted1 #ahhe1 ,by ,r4 ,,dunlap ,,co4 ,,lockwood ,,press1 #abf #abh ,duane ,st41 ,new ,york4 ,illustration ,a ,,short ,,treatise ,,on 99 ,,head 99 ,,wear 99 ,,ancient ,,and ,,modern1 ,,illustrated ,,by ,walter ,h4 ,goater4 ,head ,wear1 ,ancient and ,modern4 ,tracing the history of man as far back as we can under civilized conditions of life1 we find that in one form or another he has made use of some artificial contrivance to protect his head4 ,nature1 in her bounty1 seems to have provided in part against the necessity of the hat1 by giving to the head a thick and abundant covering of hair1 but1 instead of considering this as an indication that the head required no other protection1 mankind seems rather to have regarded it as a hint to keep this most important part of the body well covered4 ,the hat being the most conspicuous article of dress1 and surmounting all the rest1 it is only natural to find that from the earliest times special care and attention has been given to its adornment--showy plumes1 rare jewels and rich bands of gold and silver being used at different periods to decorate it4 ,its form and frequently its color have also been made to designate the rank and character of the wearer3 ,as the ,monarch by his crown1 the ,cardinal by his red hat1 which betokens his readiness to spill his blood at any time for the sake of ,christ1 and the court fool by his cap with bells4 ,in one form it serves to designate the military officer1 in another the peaceful ,quaker or the quiet man of letters4 ,illustration3 ,fig #a4 ,fig #b4 ,fig #c4 ,fig #d4 ,fig #e4 ,fig #f4 ,fig #g4 ,the materials employed in the manufacture of hats have been various1 stuffs of every kind and color having entered into their composition4 ,the birds have been robbed of their brilliant plumage1 the beasts of the field of their wool and hair4 ,amphibious creatures have yielded their fur1 while the mines of the earth have given up precious metals and stones4 ,all these have been used by man to make a suitable covering for his august head4 ,felt hats are by far the most ancient1 silk hats being of quite recent introduction4 ,they were known in ,florence about a century ago1 but were not introduced into ,france until #ahbe4 ,tradition ascribes the discovery of felting to ,st4 ,clement4 ,it occurred in this manner3 ,while on one of his charity missions1 becoming weary and foot-sore1 he took off his sandals to ease his feet1 which were all bruised from long walking over rough roads4 ,while resting by the wayside an opportunity was afforded him of rescuing a little lamb from the cruel clutches of a wily fox that was pursuing it4 ,the grateful little creature jumped round him and licked his hand for joy1 and it was in fondling it that ,st4 ,clement observed some loose wool1 which he gathered4 ,while carelessly handling it the thought suddenly struck him that it would be good to bind up the wounds on his feet with4 ,no sooner was it thought than done1 and he found it so soothing that he immediately resumed his journey4 ,illustration3 ,fig #h4 ,fig #i4 ,fig #aj4 ,fig #aa4 ,fig #ab4 ,fig #ac4 ,fig #ad4 ,fig #ae4 ,at night when he came to remove his sandals he was surprised to find1 instead of fine1 soft wool1 a piece of cloth1 so firm and thick that he could not pull it apart4 ,this was called felt1 and ,st4 ,clement was made the patron saint of the craft4 7,however1 it is only fair to state that1 according to some authorities1 there is abundant evidence to show that felting was known to the ancients long before the time of ,st4 ,clement or the ,christian era47 99 99 99 99 99 ,the most ancient form of head wear we find to be the cap such as is seen on figures representing the goddess of liberty4 ,hoods1 also1 of various shapes1 date back long before hats appeared1 the latter for a long time only being employed as an article of extra clothing in winter1 worn over the hood or when going on a journey4 99 99 99 99 99 ,among the ancient ,egyptians very peculiar shaped caps were worn1 like from ,figures #a to #g4 ,some of them would rise to a great height above the head1 and then descend very low upon the chest in the shape of lappets4 ,those of the priests and of their attendants were often loaded with a profusion of symbolical decorations1 composed of feathers1 lotus leaves and other natural products4 ,in religious processions it was common to wear masks that covered the whole head and neck down to the shoulders4 ,these represented the heads and busts of various sacred animals1 such as the ibis1 hawk1 bull1 dog and ram4 99 99 99 99 99 ,illustration3 ,fig #af4 ,fig #ag4 ,fig #ah4 ,figs #ai #bj4 ,fig #ba4 ,fig #bb4 ,fig #bc4 ,our modern hat can be traced back to the pileus worn by the ancient ,greeks when on a journey4 ,hats with brims were also worn by them1 though some authorities claim that the ,greek citizen of mature years never wore a head-covering1 it being confined to youths1 workmen and slaves4 ,the pileus was a closely-fitting woolen skull-cap1 which was sometimes worn as a lining to the helmet4 ,it was adopted by the ,romans at their public games and festivals by those who had once been slaves1 and by the aged and infirm for sake of warmth4 ,from ancient coins and medals we find that the ,romans went bareheaded1 except at sacred rites1 games1 festivals1 and when at war4 ,baldness was looked upon by them as a great deformity1 and ,csar1 mighty conqueror though he was1 yet could not make nature add one single hair to his very scanty supply1 is said to have prized the honor of wearing a laurel crown above all the other dignities conferred upon him by the senate1 as it served to conceal his weakness4 ,in the city1 to screen themselves from the heat1 rain or wind1 the ,romans frequently threw the folds of their robe over their heads1 but if they met any one to whom they owed respect1 they immediately let the folds drop and remained bareheaded4 ,figs4 #aj and #ab are specimens of ancient ,greek helmets1 while ,fig4 #aa represents a young warrior equipped for battle4 ,fig4 #h shows the petasus1 not greatly unlike our tennis hat of to-day4 ,fig4 #ad is the ,phrygian bonnet1 which held its own for so many centuries4 99 99 99 99 99 ,illustration3 ,fig #bd4 ,fig #be4 ,fig #bf4 ,fig #bg4 ,fig #bh4 ,fig #bi4 ,fig #cj4 ,the inhabitants of ,eastern nations always have their heads covered4 ,in ,china the men wear hats in shape and size resembling large umbrellas1 like ,figs4 #ah and #bc1 or else small conical caps similar to ,fig4 #ag4 ,these are made of beautifully wrought cane-work and often have pictures of birds and flowers painted upon them4 ,they also have another cap1 which though richer in material is not so graceful4 ,it is similar in shape to ,fig4 #bb1 made of black velvet with a blue silk centre and a red tassel surmounting the top4 ,the distinctive mark of different ranks among the mandarins consists in the color and value of the button worn on the cap4 ,figs4 #ai and #bj show the peculiar head-dress worn by the ,japanese when going forth to battle4 ,in ,arabia1 notwithstanding the heat of the climate1 the men wear a most preposterous head-dress4 ,frequently fifteen cloth or linen caps are worn one over the other1 the upper one being gorgeously embroidered in gold with a sentence from the ,koran worked upon it4 ,not satisfied with this curious coiffure they add to it by wrapping around the outer cap a large piece of muslin ornamented at the ends with silk or golden fringe1 which stream loosely on the shoulders4 ,a plume of white heron's feathers is the distinctive badge of a chief among the ,uzbek ,tartars4 ,throughout the ,east the turban is generally worn1 its height being a mark to denote the rank of the wearer4 ,in color it is generally of the most brilliant hue1 and of richly embroidered materials4 ,great taste and ingenuity are exercised in the manner of twisting it around the head so as to make the folds appear as graceful as possible4 ,the different turbans on page #i give some idea of the various shapes they can be made to assume4 ,emirs or ,sharifs1 descendants of ,mohammed's daughter1 are alone allowed the high honor of adorning their heads with green turbans4 ,illustration3 ,fig #ca4 ,fig #cb4 ,fig #cc4 ,fig #cd4 ,fig #ce4 ,fig #cf4 ,on page #aa we have some types of ,african head-dress1 ,figs4 #ca1 #cb and #cd showing what the natives of that dark continent have done for themselves in the way of head adornment1 entirely unaided by fashion or the knowledge of what their brothers in other parts of the world were wearing4 ,fig4 #cc1 though of ,asiatic origin and finer workmanship1 is quite as grotesque in design as anything the wild tribes of ,africa could devise4 ,at one time the ,turks had a law by which none but themselves could wear turbans of rich texture4 ,their ,greek subjects were condemned to wear dark cotton caps as a mark of their servitude4 ,armenians were compelled to appear in ridiculous-looking balloon-shaped caps1 while the ,jews were only permitted to wear brimless caps resembling inverted flower-pots4 ,later on1 the ,sultan issued a decree that all of his subjects should wear a red fez instead of their turbans4 ,this law was received with the most determined and indignant opposition4 ,so obnoxious to their feelings was this change1 that the discontented party set fire to the houses of all those who favored it1 and though finally the ,sultan's wishes passed into a law1 it was years before many of his subjects became reconciled to it4 ,fig4 #dj shows a turban worn by one of the ,sultans2 ,fig4 #da1 the fez of the people4 ,figs4 #cg1 #ch1 #db and #dc on the same page are samples of ,russian hats4 ,in some parts of that country the head-covering of the people is made of birch bark and plaited grasses2 but fur is the material most commonly used4 ,the prevailing male head-dress of the inhabitants of ,asia ,minor appears to be the ,phrygian bonnet1 of which the characteristic features with them are its point on top1 bent forward1 and its long flaps descending on the shoulders4 ,this style of hat was worn for many centuries1 and traveled as far west as ,venice1 where the ,doge always wore one4 99 99 99 99 99 ,illustration3 ,fig #cg4 ,fig #ch4 ,fig #ci4 ,fig #dj4 ,fig #da4 ,fig #db4 ,fig #dc4 ,as a part of defensive armor the hat became the helmet1 which has changed but little in shape from the earliest times4 ,very elaborate and fantastic were some of the early forms1 with their double or two-story heads1 ,figs4 #df and #dg1 to give the impression of increased height4 ,the workmanship1 also1 was very beautiful1 some of the ancient helmets being entirely covered with chasing and designs of the most intricate character4 ,with the ,greeks and ,romans the subject of armor was one of importance1 and from their ancient monuments we can learn much of their form and beauty4 ,page #ae shows several kinds of helmets worn during the middle ages4 99 99 99 99 99 ,in ,spain serious disturbances took place in ,madrid in the eighteenth century over an attempt being made to banish the sombrero4 ,while in other countries the fashion of hats has been undergoing changes1 in ,spain the same shapes are worn year after year1 with but little modification4 ,page #ai1 with the exception of ,figs4 #eb and #ec1 which are ,mexican1 show several forms of ,spanish hats4 ,fig4 #ea is the style commonly worn by the priests when traveling about4 ,page #ba gives some ,german types2 ,fig4 #fa is the hat of a judge2 ,figs4 #eh1 #fj and #fb are military hats1 while ,fig4 #fc shows a ,teutonic fool's cap decorated with bells4 99 99 99 99 99 ,illustration3 ,fig #dd4 ,fig #de4 ,fig #df4 ,fig #dg4 ,fig #dh4 ,fig #di4 ,in ,france the clothing of the head has long been a subject of special consideration1 and many have been the styles that have emanated from there4 ,at first1 as in most of the other countries mentioned1 hoods were worn1 but when ,charles ,,vii4 made his triumphal entry into ,rouen1 in #addi1 he wore a hat lined with red velvet and surmounted with a rich plume of feathers4 ,from this date hats and caps became general throughout ,france4 ,a curious appendage that was worn with the hat for many years was like ,fig4 #ff1 consisting of a piece of black stuff which was fastened to one side of the hat1 the other end being thrown over the left shoulder4 ,this band was often held in the hand and the hat allowed to fall off from the head and rest on the back4 ,another peculiar head-dress was the ,capuchin hood1 ,fig4 #fh4 ,this had a long pointed tail that hung down the back1 and in front was buttoned close up to the chin4 ,some gallants twisted the tails into all sorts of fantastic forms and carelessly poised them on the top of the head4 ,with the shaven faces that were always worn with this hood1 the men all looked very much like monks4 ,it was fear of this appearance that induced ,francis ,i4 to set the fashion of velvet caps in his kingdom4 ,fig4 #fg represents a ,french military hat4 ,for the past fifty years the high silk hat has been the most popular style in ,france4 ,at one time there was a law in ,france which compelled all bankrupt ,jews to wear a green hat1 so that people might avoid losses by trading with them4 ,the slang expression 8,do you see anything green about me10 is said to have derived its origin from this circumstance4 99 99 99 99 99 ,illustration3 ,,russian4 ,,prince ,,of ,,wales4 9999 ,,french4 ,,pope',s ,,tiara4 9999 ,,english4 9999 ,,sultan',s ,,tiara4 ,,duke',s4 9999 ,,austria4 ,,german4 ,the early ,anglo-,saxons for years wore no other covering for their heads than their long flowing hair1 which they sedulously cultivated4 ,when they did take to a covering1 about the eighth century1 it was in the form of a cap made most likely from the undressed skin of animals4 ,the ,britons1 at the time of the invasion of ,csar1 wore on their heads a conical hat1 which derived its name from the cabin or hut in which they lived1 it strongly resembling it in shape4 ,helmets1 with a projecting piece in front called a nasal1 were worn by the early ,briton warriors4 ,the nasal was afterward discarded1 as it was found to afford too convenient a hold to the enemy of the wearer1 ,stephen1 at the siege of ,lincoln1 having been seized by the nasal of his helmet and held a prisoner4 ,it was not until after the ,norman conquest that the use of hats became general in ,england4 8,a hatte of bever0 was worn by some one of the nobles met at ,clarendon about the middle of the twelfth century1 and in the 8,canterbury ,tales0 we hear mention of the merchant wearing on his head a 8,flaunderish bever hat40 ,in the fourteenth century we find a very peculiar kind of head-gear popular in ,england1 ,figs4 #gj and #gb4 ,first1 on the head is a close-fitting skull-cap1 which is encircled by a roll of cloth1 flat like a band1 or twisted turban-wise4 ,above is another piece of cloth1 cut and clipped around the edges in all manner of queer shapes1 the whole falling around the head in a confused manner4 ,such hoods were worn by the ancient ,knights of the ,garter1 and are said to have been borrowed from ,italy4 ,it is in this same century that for the first time in ,england we find a feather in the hat1 ,fig4 #ge4 ,it was stuck in perfectly straight in front1 as they had not as yet acquired any grace in its adjustment4 ,illustration3 ,fig #ej4 ,fig #ea4 ,fig #eb4 ,fig #ec4 ,fig #ed4 ,fig #ee4 ,fig #ef4 ,during the reign of ,queen ,elizabeth a great variety of hats and caps were worn4 ,they were mostly made of velvet and richly decorated with jewels1 bands of gold or silver lace and feathers4 ,a writer of that time describes them thus3 8,they wear them sharpe on the crowne1 peaking up like the speare or shaft of a steeple1 standing a quarter of a yard above the crowne of the head4 ,some others are flatte and broade on the crowne like the battlements of a house4 ,another sort have round corners1 sometimes with one sort of band1 sometimes another2 now black1 now white1 now russet1 now red1 now green1 now yellow1 now this1 now that--never content with one color or fashion two days to an end2 and thus they spend the ,lord's treasure consuming their golden years and silver days in wickedness and sin40 ,those must have been glorious days for the hatter when the fashions changed so rapidly that men were obliged to buy a new hat every two or three days4 ,during this same reign laws were made compelling the lower classes to wear on the ,sabbath a cap of peculiar shape and make4 ,the escape of ,lord ,nithsdale from the ,tower1 in the early part of the eighteenth century1 was principally effected by the large riding-hoods worn at that time1 which he put on1 along with his wife's dress and cloak4 ,such hoods were ever after called ,nithsdales4 ,on page #be are pictures of some of the early forms of ,english hats4 ,figs4 #gf and #gh belonged to the clergy4 ,fig4 #gg is a ,scottish bonnet4 99 99 99 99 99 ,illustration3 ,fig #eg4 ,fig #eh4 ,fig #ei4 ,fig #fj4 ,fig #fa4 ,fig #fb4 ,fig #fc4 ,the ,puritans discarded all ornament of any kind from their dress and wore the steeple hat1 high and narrow in the crown1 with a broad brim 7,fig4 #hc74 ,the ,cavalier of the same era wore a low1 broad-crowned hat with a feather stuck on one side4 ,the principal changes that have taken place in hats from time to time have been in the height of the crown and in the width of the brim4 ,as this latter became wider it led to the device of looping it up1 and thus originated the cocked hat that was worn during the eighteenth century4 ,to all ,americans this hat brings patriotic recollections of revolutionary days--for ,washington and his generals all wore cocked hats4 ,on page #bg1 ,fig4 #he1 we have the hat of the 8,minute ,man40 ,also one worn1 ,fig4 #gi1 during the good old ,knickerbocker days4 ,fig4 #hd shows the style of hat worn by ,kossuth when on a visit to this country in #ahea4 ,previous to this time the only hat made for gentlemen was the high silk hat and cloth caps for boys1 but a few weeks after ,kossuth's appearance in the country thousands of hats similar to his were sold1 the demand for them being universal4 ,since then soft and stiff felt hats have been brought to perfection in quality and style in this country far superior to any made abroad4 ,this was shown in our ,centennial ,exhibition1 in #ahgf1 by ,dunlap ,co4 receiving the first prize for their productions over all competition of foreign and domestic manufactures4 ,figs4 #hf1 #hg1 #hh are three different styles of high hats worn about fifty years ago4 ,in the latter part of the eighteenth century the gaudy ornaments of lace1 jewels1 feathers1 c41 gradually began to disappear from hats1 giving place to the sober black band and simple buckle1 and when that1 too1 had its day and passed away1 the hats of men were left without any ornament1 but in much better taste and more in keeping with their use than were those of old4 ,illustration3 ,fig #fd4 ,fig #fe4 ,fig #ff4 ,fig #fg4 ,fig #fh4 ,fig #fi4 ,hats have not only been used for the practical purpose of covering the head1 but from remote time have played their part in many important actions in life4 ,among the ,romans the hat was the symbol of liberty1 and slaves were presented with one on receiving their freedom4 ,the ,quaker hat dates from the origin of the sect in the middle of the seventeenth century1 ,fig4 #hj4 ,after the assassination of ,csar coins were issued by ,brutus and ,cassius1 on which was represented a cap between two daggers4 ,even at a later period the hat or cap was identified with liberty as in the republic of the ,netherlands4 ,after the emancipation from ,spain a hat became their national emblem1 while we all know the part ,gessler's hat played in gaining for the ,swiss their freedom4 ,the common practice of doffing the hat when meeting a friend is thought to be a modification of the ancient custom of unclothing some part of the body when in the presence of one to whom respect was due4 ,many persons profess that from the dress alone they can give you a true estimate of the character of the man4 ,while this is1 perhaps1 expressing it rather strongly1 it is certainly true that the material and style of one's dress does1 to a large degree1 denote the wearer's character2 and especially is this so of hats and the manner in which they are worn4 ,illustration3 ,fig #gj4 ,fig #ga4 ,fig #gb4 ,fig #gc4 ,fig #gd4 ,fig #ge4 ,fig #gf4 ,fig #gg4 ,fig #gh4 ,the man of refined tastes will always be found to be very fastidious in regard to his head wear1 buying only the finest quality of hat1 while a coarse nature will be satisfied with a cheap slouch hat4 ,the prosperous business man also can generally be picked out by his hat1 it being something substantial and good of its kind1 while the man of mean and parsimonious habits will usually have a hat to correspond with his dwarfed nature4 8,have a good hat2 the secret of your looks ,lives with the beaver in ,canadian brooks2 ,virtue may flourish in an old cravat1 ,but man and nature scorn the shocking hat40 ,illustration3 ,fig #gi4 ,fig #hj4 ,fig #ha4 ,fig #hb4 ,fig #hc4 ,fig #hd4 ,fig #he4 ,fig #hf4 ,fig #hg4 ,fig #hh4 ,we have now followed a few of the changes that hats have undergone from the earliest times to the present1 and would bring our remarks to a close with a notice of the house of ,r4 ,dunlap ,co41 which was founded by ,mr4 ,robert ,dunlap in #aheg1 who opened a small store ,november #ad1 at #eeg ,broadway1 between ,spring and ,prince streets1 and by originality of designs and selling the finest class of hats1 he soon became the popular hatter of the city4 ,two years later1 in #ahei1 ,mr4 ,paran ,stevens1 the ,napoleon of hotel-keepers1 induced ,mr4 ,dunlap to occupy a store under the ,fifth ,avenue ,hotel1 which was just then completed1 and who desired only those as tenants who sold the best goods in their line4 ,at this time the hotel1 situated at the corner of ,twenty-third street and ,fifth avenue1 was considered very far up town1 and it was predicted that ,dunlap's venture would be a failure2 but the young and enterprising hatter soon became the leading hatter of the country4 ,the firm remained there for twelve years1 and then removed to their present location1 at #agh and #ahj ,fifth avenue4 ,finding the demand for their hats increasing from the residents of ,brooklyn1 ,jersey ,city and surrounding suburbs1 in #ahgf they moved their store from #eeg to #agi ,broadway1 near ,cortlandt street1 as their down-town store4 ,illustration3 ,,fall ,,styles1 #ahhe4 ,no #eb4 ,no #eb4 ,no #ec4 ,no #ec4 ,,price ,,of ,,silk ,,hats1 #h4jj4 ,in ,ordering give ,number4 ,illustration3 ,,fall ,,styles1 #ahhe4 ,no #ef4 ,no #ed4 ,no #ee4 ,no #ee4 ,,stiff ,,hats1 ,,in ,,black ,,and ,,brown1 #e4jj4 ,in ,ordering give ,number4 ,illustration3 ,,fall ,,styles1 #ahhe4 ,no #eg ,,stiff4 ,no #eh ,,soft4 ,no #ei ,,soft4 ,no #eh ,,soft4 ,,soft ,,hats1 ,,in ,,black ,,and ,,brown4 ,in ,ordering give ,number and state price of ,hat desired4 ,illustration3 ,,fall ,,styles1 #ahhe4 ,no #fc4 ,no #fj4 ,no #fa4 ,no #fb4 ,,soft ,,pocket-,,hats1 ,,in ,,black1 ,,brown ,,and ,,blue4 ,in ,ordering give ,number4 ,the popularity of the ,dunlap hat induced the firm to increase their manufacturing facilities by the erection of a large factory on ,seventh avenue1 ,new ,york1 where all the silk and opera hats are made1 and a straw-hat factory at #acb and #acd ,south ,fifth avenue1 ,new ,york1 and also the erection of one of the largest and most complete felt hat factories in this country at the corner of ,park and ,nostrand avenues1 ,brooklyn4 ,the growing demand for these hats in the ,west induced the firm to open a branch store under the ,palmer ,house1 ,chicago1 about three years ago1 which has proved a grand success2 also1 quite recently1 they have opened an elegant store on ,chestnut street1 ,philadelphia4 ,besides their own stores in ,new ,york1 ,chicago and ,philadelphia1 their celebrated hats are sold by authorized agents in all the principal cities of the ,united ,states1 where the patrons of the ,dunlap hat can purchase their hats of the same style1 quality and price as sold by them in their own stores4 ,illustration ,illustration