,dress and ,look ,slender ,,by ,,jane ,,warren ,,wells ,,personal ,,arts ,,company ,,scranton1 ,,pennsylvania ,,copyright1 #aibd ,,by ,,the ,,personal ,,arts ,,company ,,all ,,rights ,,reserved ,,international ,,textbook ,,press ,,scranton1 ,,pa4 ,,foreword ,the desire to be attractive1 to feel the assurance that one is correctly if not beautifully dressed is inherent in every woman4 ,with the advent of the 8slim silhouette0 the full proportioned woman or girl has had a problem4 ,it is unfashionable to appear over large--and one cannot help feeling conspicuous when out of ,fashion's range4 ,but1 fortunately1 there is a plan by which the proper selection of dress can actually aid you in overcoming the handicap of weight4 ,there is magic in the principles of 8optical illusion0 and rightly applied it is a kind of magic that one can make a permanent reality4 ,but magic is subtle4 ,it requires skill1 watchfulness1 and a close abiding to the rules if every 8trick0 is to be a success4 ,in reading this book you will find many things that you are advised not to do1 but always you will find substantial instructions as to what to do4 ,and always principles are provided which you can use and adapt to a great variety of personal needs4 ,one of the first essentials of teaching is to start a definite line of thinking1 and if the rules in this book will arouse in you the desire to compare the points made with illustrations you see of line and color1 both in pictures and on people1 and to test their correctness or incorrectness for yourself1 it will indeed be worth while4 ,you1 who have started diets and failed with them1 who have tried exercises and become discouraged1 hold to this--read every page of this book1 find the reason back of every rule and apply the principles laid down4 ,i guarantee that it will be interesting and that the results will bring you a renewed assurance1 confidence and satisfaction with your personal appearance and with yourself4 ,is that not enough to commend the book in its entirety8 ,,jane ,,warren ,,wells ,,contents ,,page ,,chapter ,i ,,why ,,women ,,want ,,to ,,look ,,slender #a ,when ,fashion ,demands ,slenderness and ,youthfulness #e ,business and ,social ,life ,make ,slenderness and ,youthfulness a ,necessity #g ,making the ,most of ,your ,good ,points #h ,,chapter ,,ii ,,the ,,real ,,secret ,,of ,,dressing ,,to ,,look ,,slender #ae ,optical ,illusions--,seeing ,is ,believing #ag ,lines ,that ,slenderize and ,lines ,that ,don't #ba ,a ,simple ,trick ,that ,takes ,off ,twenty ,pounds #bh ,making ,yourself ,taller ,than ,you ,are #cb ,lines ,that ,slenderize ,tunics #cc ,apply ,these ,rules to ,every ,item of ,your ,attire #cf ,secrets ,that ,even the ,slender ,woman ,must ,know #cg ,,chapter ,,iii ,,the ,,little ,,things ,,that ,,make ,,the ,,big ,,differences #ci ,watch ,your ,step #ci ,what ,your ,posture ,can ,do ,for ,you #da ,shoes and ,stockings ,must ,be ,selected ,with ,care #dc ,necklines ,are ,slenderized by ,correct ,jewelry and ,collars #df ,purses1 ,fans1 and ,other ,accessories #dg ,neatness and ,cleanliness ,are ,essential #dh ,cosmetics ,either ,add or ,detract #di ,think of ,these ,little ,things ,beforehand #ea ,,chapter ,,iv ,,foundations ,,that ,,slenderize #ee ,the ,art of ,selecting ,your ,corset #ee ,how to ,know ,when ,your ,corset ,fits ,exactly #ef ,which is ,your ,type of ,corset8 #fj ,the ,best ,kind of ,brassiere for ,you #fa ,the ,importance of ,smooth1 ,perfect ,fitting ,underthings #fe ,,chapter ,v ,,cardinal ,,rules ,,for ,,dresses ,,that ,,camouflage ,,size #ga ,remodeling ,your ,present ,wardrobe #ga ,selecting ,new ,clothes ,that ,will ,slenderize ,you #gf ,the ,truth ,about ,surplice ,fronts #hc ,sleeves for ,large ,arms #he ,slenderizing ,fleshy ,shoulders #ia ,disguising ,weight ,from the ,waistline ,down #ib ,necklines ,make a ,tremendous ,difference #if ,the ,importance of ,these ,slenderizing ,trimmings #ih ,helpful ,hints from a ,leading ,new ,york ,designer #ajj ,,chapter ,,vi ,,essential ,,points ,,in ,,cutting ,,and ,,fitting #ajc ,the ,helpfulness of ,darts in ,certain ,places #ajc ,how to ,hold the ,dress ,up on the ,shoulders #ajf ,what the ,long ,underarm ,does #ajf ,the ,bias ,center ,front #ajg ,how to ,add ,fullness ,without ,flare #ajg ,,chapter ,,vii ,,fabrics ,,that ,,slenderize #aae ,facts to ,know ,about ,materials #aaf ,why ,average 8,bargains0 ,are ,not an ,economy for ,you #abj ,choose ,these ,slenderizing ,fabrics #abj ,materials ,you ,can ,wear #abc ,how to ,look ,smart at ,all ,times #abd ,if ,you ,must ,practice ,economy #abe ,,chapter ,,viii ,,colors ,,that ,,slenderize #abi ,what ,colors ,not to ,wear #acj ,study ,color 8,families0 #acb ,choose ,subtle ,shades #acd ,a ,color ,guide to ,aid ,you in ,attaining a ,slenderizing ,appearance #acf ,rules to ,remember #aci ,,chapter ,,ix ,,the ,,line ,,of ,,youth ,,and ,,grace #adc ,when ,tailored ,clothes ,are ,smart #adc ,youthful ,styles ,you ,can ,wear #adf ,youthful ,styles to ,avoid #adi ,trimness ,is ,your ,goal #aea ,,chapter ,x ,,the ,,smart ,,line ,,of ,,dignity #aee ,dress ,smartly1 ,no ,matter ,how ,old ,you ,are #aef ,if ,you ,are ,short and ,stout #aei ,for the ,tall ,stout ,figure #afa ,skirts for ,dignity #afa ,sleeves for ,grace #afb ,trimmings to ,avoid #afc ,how the ,mature ,woman ,can ,appear ,smart1 ,attractive and ,charming #aff ,,chapter ,,xi ,,hats ,,and ,,wraps ,,that ,,slenderize #aga ,hat ,shapes to ,wear and ,not to ,wear #agb ,hat ,colors to ,wear and ,not to ,wear #agf ,wraps ,that ,slenderize and ,those ,that ,do ,not #agg ,,chapter ,,xii ,,looking ,,slender ,,is ,,an ,,art1 ,a ,,necessity1 ,,and ,a ,,pleasure #agi ,harmonious ,proportions--,the ,aim of ,every ,woman #ahj ,simplicity is the ,first ,essential #ahb ,here ,are the #aj ,chief ,rules in a ,nutshell #ahc ,,dress ,,and ,,look ,,slender ,,chapter ,i ,,why ,,women ,,want ,,to ,,look ,,slender ,if there is any one thing in the world that is not wanted it is too much fat on a woman4 ,in my whole lifetime ,i have heard only one overweight woman say she would not be thin if she could4 ,i have always regretted that ,i did not ask her why4 ,before ,i tipped the scales so definitely myself1 ,i paid little attention to the problems of the big woman1 for of course ,i was not vitally interested in weight reduction or size concealment4 ,but when ,i found my own clothes not meeting and the children in the family saying ,i was getting fat1 ,i began to take notice4 ,i must have read fifty-odd advertisements on 8,how ,to ,get ,thin10 and ,i was hopeful of some of the methods4 ,we almost had to move from a duplex house because ,i did exercises to music and the neighbors could not sleep4 ,i ate 8woe-be-gone0 bread4 ,i even tried to melt away in reducing corsets but almost took the skin with them when ,i tried to get them off4 ,i read every book ,i could find on 8,what ,to ,eat0 and 8,what ,not ,to ,eat10 and ,i lost three good cooks in my efforts to reduce the menu to a get-thin basis4 ,a prominent actress gave me a prescription for reducing4 ,her husband1 on finding it out1 came rushing to see me to tell me that the prescription was for a drug and that his wife in her eagerness to keep within bounds demanded by the stage had indulged only to become a hopeless addict4 ,then ,i went to my physician and told him ,i was tired of bruising myself with rolling1 my fear would not allow me to take drugs and ,i would have to leave home if ,i persisted in the diet4 ,i begged him to give me something to remove the excess of thirty pounds and he promptly refused1 pointing out to me the illnesses and other bad effects that could come from abnormal or unnatural reduction4 ,he explained that he could give me something that would take off the fat but that it would age the tissues of the body ten to fifteen years4 ,and youth is something that every woman wants to keep1 no matter what her weight4 ,he explained the thyroid theory but refused to give me an ounce of the preparation for my relief and very frankly told me to forget my weight and enjoy the good health that ,i evidenced4 ,i left his office crestfallen and disappointed1 thinking that if he only knew how much the heavy woman wants to appear thin enough to wear smart clothes1 if he could only know how she actually longs for the lovely things that fashion creates for the slender types1 he would be more sympathetic4 ,but he is a very sane and sensible man and all my appeals had no effect4 ,however1 when my friends continued to say1 8,my1 ,i believe you're getting fat0 instead of 8,how stunning you look10 ,i realized how necessary it was for me to persist in my determination to dispose of the thirty extra pounds and at the same time indulge my appreciation for pretty things which is the right of every woman1 fat or thin4 ,i found my clothes problem daily growing more serious4 ,several times ,i purchased a new dress and after one wearing ,i would discard it because ,i looked heavier and older than ,i wanted to look4 ,the problem was becoming increasingly difficult because each time ,i stepped upon the scales1 ,i would invariably see recorded two or three pounds more than last time4 ,i am sure that many of you have meekly slipped off the scales1 as ,i have1 scarcely waiting long enough to see what weight was actually registered1 praying meanwhile that no one saw where the arrow pointed4 ,i simply could not believe the scales were right1 because before each weighing ,i was certain within myself that ,i had climbed enough stairs1 done without enough candy1 and touched my hands to the floor often enough to be at least three pounds lighter4 ,about this time an inspiration came to me4 ,i would 8get even0 with my slender friends4 ,if ,i could not safely reduce1 ,i would at least give the appearance of having reduced4 ,if ,i could not actually take off thirty pounds1 ,i would make myself look thirty pounds lighter in the eyes of others4 ,and1 after all1 is that not what we are most concerned about8 ,plumpness is more often a sign of good health than bad4 ,we could be supremely happy with our extra weight if only we could look slender4 ,i recalled the advice of my physician to 8go home and enjoy my good health40 ,so ,i started on my campaign to lose thirty pounds in appearance4 ,i did it and so quickly that my friends were amazed at the sudden change4 ,i was congratulated on my success in reducing4 ,i was told ,i had never looked so well4 ,friends persistently asked me what method of reducing ,i had followed4 ,in fact the success of my plans has been so remarkable that ,i do want every overweight woman to know about them4 ,and so into this book ,i am putting the whole story4 ,,when ,,fashion ,,demands ,,slenderness ,,and ,,youthfulness ,we are all slaves to fashion4 ,for many1 many years it was the fashion to be plump4 ,venus herself was not slender1 but well rounded and full of figure4 ,our mothers wore bustles1 and bust ruffles if they needed them1 but as for us1 well1 it is the fashion to look slender1 and since it is1 we must strive to keep within the dictates of the mode4 ,my own work is fashion work4 ,i meet hundreds of fashion folks4 ,the slender silhouette has been promoted1 applauded1 appreciated for years1 and as the days and months went by and the youthful outline grew more important1 more prominent1 ,i began to realize what a handicap the stout woman was under in trying to find attractive clothes4 ,i felt like an ,eskimo on a summer's day on ,fifth ,avenue4 ,to go into a smart shop to buy a new dress only to be looked over and directed to the matron's department or that of the stylish stouts was too much for my pride4 ,i wasn't willing to put myself in the out-of-fashion class and appear heavy and elderly wearing fronts and vests that had written all over them1 8built especially for a stout40 ,frequently fashion magazines show suggestions for 8length lines0--but they seem to assume that all overweight women must look matronly4 ,two1 in particular1 that ,i remember showed the effect of incorrect crosswise lines and of correct lengthwise lines4 ,i studied them carefully for information and decided that ,i would prefer to look round and thirty1 than straight up and down and sixty4 ,every one of the models1 though satisfactory in design1 added #bj to #cj years to the apparent age of the wearer1 doing nothing to overcome one of the most dangerous things with which the stout has to contend4 ,for although no dignified woman wants to look like a sixteen-year-old overgrown ,susie1 still she does want to look young1 modish1 and correctly dressed1 and no woman is rightly dressed who by her clothes adds even one year to her age4 ,however1 ,i now know that it is possible for every woman1 whether she is only slightly too plump in certain places1 or decidedly overweight1 to make herself look smart1 slender1 and many years younger by studying certain vital rules of dress and adhering to them in planning her wardrobe4 ,,business ,,and ,,social ,,life ,,make ,,slenderness ,,and ,,youthfulness ,a ,,necessity ,women1 young1 mature1 or elderly1 at home or in business1 must always try to look their best4 ,they must be so pleasingly and so correctly dressed as always to evidence good taste1 for good taste1 after all1 is the only real authority in dress4 ,without it1 dress loses all its power of charm or influence4 ,especially is this true for women in public life4 ,the solo singer in the church1 the leader of the club or mothers' meeting1 the social worker or politician1 all must give evidence of good taste and be modestly and correctly attired if they are to gain favorable criticism4 ,no woman who sings should ever allow it to be said of her1 8,i adored the song1 but the singer's hat annoyed me so that ,i could not listen40 ,a woman's clothes should be beautifully alluring and complimentary4 ,this is woman's heritage1 and any woman who allows her lack of knowledge to make her unhappy or unpleasing to see has only herself to blame1 for it doesn't take money4 ,it does take information1 ingenuity1 and a little energy4 ,but oh1 how worth while the result will be6 ,,making ,,the ,,most ,,of ,,your ,,good ,,points ,sometimes we women of over #cf bust become discouraged4 ,there is really no reason for this because most of us have a great many good points that we simply do not use to the best of our advantage4 ,we worry so unnecessarily about our bad points that we forget about the good ones1 but there is much that we can do with little or no effort and the improvement in our appearance is its own reward4 ,for instance1 most big people have nice hair1 and they should keep it4 ,any big woman who bobs her hair and leaves it that way hasn't eyed herself sufficiently in her mirror4 ,from her neck up she may look ten years younger1 but from the neck down she probably looks ridiculous4 ,for one of the chief rules for good looks is right balance1 poise1 and dignity4 ,so why do anything to hinder these8 ,you have one handicap--too many pounds4 ,you must do everything you can1 therefore1 to retain every possible attraction1 and your hair is one of them for it suggests womanliness4 ,we don't want our friends to say that we have a great 8mother lap0 or a shoulder of ,gibraltar to weep on1 but we must set out to be substantial in thought1 act1 and deed to be attractive4 ,a little slim girl can giggle and be silly if she wants to--she can even wear mussed up dresses--but a big girl must be modest1 and always immaculate in every particular4 ,and why not8 ,it's an effort1 yes1 to be always striving for perfection1 but it can be made a real hobby4 ,study the attractive slender girl who looks well and dresses well4 ,adapt what you can of her attire4 ,oftentimes1 you can learn more of the 8trick0 from the slim looking girl than from the stout4 ,as you go through fashion books1 don't discredit all the styles and say they are planned only for the slim4 ,study them carefully1 find a collar from one and waist line from another1 fabric suggestions from another4 ,dress to be fashionable1 but learn to discriminate so that you can find the best for you in the new4 ,sometimes ,i have thought what fun it would be if we big folks could dress up and reach a point of perfection--so much so that the artist would have to get a more flexible pencil to express the varying grace of line that would be manifest4 ,and why not8 ,isn't it our own fault if fashion forgets us8 ,we deserve to be dowdy if we haven't enough pride1 ingenuity1 and perseverance to conceal intelligently and comfortably a few extra pounds4 ,if you are tall and large but not fat1 consider yourself a full well-proportioned figure and dress correctly but in plain good quality fabrics so that neither height nor width will be accentuated4 ,don't try to fool yourself by wearing clothes that are too small for you4 ,it is said that fat men need the best tailors1 and surely all large women should strive to have perfect fitting clothes4 ,when ,i was fourteen ,i wore on a special ,sunday a long skirt and a bustle1 thinking that it was better to look eighteen and 8ladylike0 than fourteen and overgrown4 ,don't look overgrown in your clothes1 but don't ever make yourself any older than you are4 ,if your ankles are large1 have your dresses a wee bit longer than fashion calls for4 ,if your ankles are small and the legs large above the ankle1 have your dress slightly long for the same reason4 ,if the legs and ankles are correctly proportioned for the rest of the body1 remember that even you need to have the skirt just a little bit longer because when you sit down you take up some of the skirt length4 ,a fat woman sitting down with a dress that is too short is not pleasing to see--and we big women do love to sit down4 ,and in speaking of sitting down1 a sanitary apron is a real protection to the backs of big folks' dresses as it prevents wrinkling4 ,buy one1 try it1 and you will realize that the back of your dress looks much better after you get up from a two-hour sitting4 ,and1 besides1 you can console yourself with the fact that if perspiration really reduces1 your apron is serving you twofold--melting the fat and preventing skirt wrinkles all at the same time4 ,don't ever be tempted to wear frills1 ruffles1 tassels1 or ornaments that go forward or wave about as you walk4 ,they double your size every time and must be avoided4 ,a good plan for those of us who like ruffles1 frills1 and bright colors is to put them on our night clothes where no one but our very own selves can see4 ,the house1 too1 lends opportunity for our color appetites and there we may use color freely and safely4 ,but because we love red1 orange1 or ,king's blue is no sign we must wear it on our backs for all to see4 ,buy a little piece of fabric with just the colors you revel in2 put it in the dresser drawer1 or let it ornament a chair back1 look at it every day1 and thus satisfy your longing for color4 ,then wear those very simple things that you know will be becoming4 ,one woman whom ,i know and who looks like a fashion plate in the day time and like a dream lady at night1 always gets everything together on the bed before she starts to dress4 ,she insists that it takes only a little longer to do this1 that it saves time when she does get ready to dress1 and that she is always better satisfied with the results4 ,she says1 8,i know then that ,i have the right slip1 the right stockings1 that my gloves are suitable1 and that there are no holes that need attention4 ,in putting them on the bed1 ,i always make all the little repairs that are necessary and do all the brushing or freshening that is needed2 then when ,i am ready to dress ,i feel a sense of satisfaction that ,i can find in no other way40 ,and so1 why don't you1 who are striving to express yourself more beautifully1 to dress with more satisfaction and peace of mind1 try this simple little plan of thinking about what you are going to wear and getting it ready before you start to dress8 ,then1 watching always what you see in your mirror1 your fashion books1 on the streets1 and in the shops1 you will find that which is appropriate1 becoming1 and wholly lovely for you4 ,and to these material fundamentals1 add your own wholesome pride4 ,don't cheat yourself or those who must see you4 ,don't be dowdy4 ,life is too short and too real for that4 ,learn to be proud of yourself and dress so that even you will feel a sense of security and assurance4 ,after all1 we can be rather selfish about just looking right4 ,other folks are glad to see us in pretty clothes--looking our best4 ,a right hat1 a right dress1 correctly worn1 can really do wonders as a tonic4 ,try it4 ,it really is a good prescription4 ,,chapter ,,ii ,,the ,,real ,,secret ,,of ,,dressing ,,to ,,look ,,slender 8,reducing0--by no matter what method--is too often a snare and a delusion2 for even if1 after all your efforts1 you do lose some weight1 a little indiscretion in your clothes will make you look as stout as ever4 ,how to select clothes that are certain to make you look slender is the most important knowledge a modern woman can have4 ,surely it is the most important art in the whole field of fashion4 ,and yet1 many designers of clothes for stout women do not understand its very cardinal principles4 ,of course1 they do design so-called 8slenderizing stouts0--but you know1 perhaps all too well1 what they look like4 ,their long surplice effects and drab colors say as plainly as words1 8,i am designed for a stout0 and nine times out of ten they simply call attention to your stoutness4 ,besides they are for matronly women--not for those who want to look young and smart4 ,it seems practically impossible to get youthful and appropriate clothes for women who wear sizes over #ch4 ,yet it may be only necessary to change a neckline or remove an ornament or alter the line of a sleeve in order to transform a 8dumpy fat woman's dress0 into a model of slender grace and youthful charm4 ,the whole art rests upon a certain scientific principle known to artists and a few expert designers4 ,it is called the ,principle of ,optical ,illusion1 by which things appear to the eye to be different than they really are4 ,by understanding and properly using this principle1 objects may be made to appear larger or smaller1 taller or shorter4 ,and by employing this principle in dress any woman can be made to look older or younger1 shorter or taller1 stouter or slenderer than she actually is4 ,for example1 just as white shoes make large feet look much larger1 so do certain lines and colors make a large figure look a great deal larger1 while correct lines and colors and subtle touches give the effect of slenderness1 youth and grace4 ,every stout woman has1 some time in her experience1 come by chance upon a dress which seemed to make her look more slender and younger1 and she has worn and worn that dress almost to shreds1 hating to part with it because there was no telling when she would find another one to give that same effect4 ,but there is no reason why you should trust to chance in selecting becoming clothes4 ,for if you know this simple yet all important principle of optical illusion1 you can plan or make or select every item of your wardrobe with the certain knowledge that it will have a slenderizing effect on your appearance4 ,you can know beforehand that every dress1 every coat1 every hat1 every garment you wear will be designed to give you height instead of width1 youth instead of matronliness1 slenderness and grace instead of heaviness4 ,it doesn't matter whether you buy your clothes ready made1 have them made by a dressmaker1 or make them yourself--you can always know just what to select to make your particular type of figure look as slim and well proportioned as possible4 ,illustration3 ,the two vertical lines are exactly the same length--measure them and see4 ,short lines turned back at either end make one seem short2 extended lines make the other seem longer4 ,illustration3 ,these two illusions are almost duplicated in the dresses above4 ,as a result one woman looks shorter and heavier1 the other taller and slenderer than she really is4 ,,optical ,,illusions--,,seeing ,,is ,,believing ,you yourself are familiar with many optical illusions1 although you may never have thought of them as such4 ,when you look down the railroad tracks the rails appear to come together in the distance4 ,no matter how much you tell yourself that the rails do not actually come together1 the fact remains that they appear to do so4 ,if you put the end of a stick in water it appears broken1 although you know that in fact it is not broken4 ,the eyes in a certain portrait seem to follow you1 no matter where you may go in the room in which it is hung4 ,this illusion persists1 no matter how much you may tell yourself that the eyes do not actually move4 ,when you are on a moving train it is only by the constant succession of passing trees1 posts1 and landscape that you realize you are going forward4 ,when these objects are shut off from your view by a train going in the opposite direction1 you seem to be going backward4 ,or if you look at a moving picture taken from the front of a rapidly moving train or motor launch1 it is difficult not to get the impression that you are rushing forward4 ,all of these are optical illusions1 yet we do not think of them as illusions4 ,they represent the natural and the normal and we make allowances for them4 ,the laws of illusion are more easily understood1 perhaps1 by means of simple lines than any other way4 ,you will grasp them quickly by studying the various figures which illustrate this chapter4 ,let us take a simple example to begin with having directly to do with the use of straight lines in dress4 ,you have probably read a thousand times and heard a hundred times more that stout people must work for straight line effects and the straight line silhouette4 ,but it is one thing to know this fact and another actually to accomplish it in your clothes4 ,you can't just hang a straight line down from the shoulder like a carpenter's plumb on a door sill4 ,you must know just where and just how to apply the straight line4 ,you must learn to use straight lines so that they blend in with your costume--so that they give the desired effect without calling attention to the means by which it is achieved4 ,illustration3 ,these unbroken parallel vertical lines give the definite impression of height4 ,this principle1 used in the design of the dress above1 lends it a pleasing slender appearance because no other lines interfere with the straight line effect4 ,illustration3 ,here1 also1 are two vertical parallel lines4 ,they are straight--test them--but the other lines radiating from the center1 make them appear 8bowed40 ,in the dress above a similar design makes the wearer appear stouter and heavier than she really is4 ,,lines ,,that ,,slenderize ,,and ,,lines ,,that ,,don',t ,it is a popular theory among folks who would dress to look slender that stripes running up-and-down are the thing to wear1 while stripes running across are to be avoided4 ,this belief1 like many another old-fashioned one1 is only half true4 ,for instance1 it is true that if the up-and-down stripes in your material are very fine and unobtrusive they will have the effect of making you look taller and slimmer4 ,this1 however1 is not at all true of broad stripes or of stripes in a definitely contrasting color--quite the contrary1 in fact4 ,pronounced stripes merely call attention to themselves and do not create the illusion of slenderness which is desired4 ,but this is only one of many points to be taken into consideration when you plan a dress with stripes or with straight up-and-down lines of any kind4 ,for instance1 the illustrations on pages #ah and #ai show two up-and-down lines of exactly the same length4 ,take your ruler and measure them to convince yourself4 ,now note the effect on these lines of the shorter lines added to each end4 ,the inverted arrows added to the line at the left make it appear shorter than it really is4 ,the extended lines added to the one at the right make it appear longer than it really is4 ,now note the two costumes on these same pages in which these principles have been applied4 ,in the one shown on the left the figure looks shorter and stouter than it really is1 while in designing the dress on the right the correct use of the optical illusion has been observed and the result is a slender1 graceful appearance4 ,you can readily see from these pictures how a straight line effect can be either accentuated or shortened by the lines that run out from it4 ,there are many ways in which a stout woman who does not know this principle can easily ruin the effect of a costume4 ,for instance1 a woman who wears a perfectly straight up-and-down dress of quite correct lines may put a large mushroom shape hat on her head and perhaps a band of fur around the bottom of her skirt4 ,this has precisely the same effect as the arrows which are turned the wrong way and therefore shorten and widen the straight line4 8,i cannot understand why ,i look so short and dumpy10 she wails despairingly4 8,my dress is made on perfectly straight up-and-down lines and yet ,i look fatter than ever40 ,of course she does1 because instead of extending the straight up-and-down line by a small upturned hat of some sort and an unobtrusive skirt hem1 she has broken the line at the top and bottom and thereby shortened and widened her appearance4 ,illustration3 ,these two diamond-shaped figures are exactly the same size4 ,the crosswise line makes one seem wider1 the vertical line makes the other seem narrower4 ,illustration3 ,now note how these same principles used in the dresses above effect the apparent size and weight of those wearing them1 making one seem much stouter than the other4 ,a ,,simple ,,trick ,,that ,,takes ,,off ,,twenty ,,pounds ,another point to be very careful about is the matter of uninterrupted straight lines4 ,for instance1 the small diagrams on pages #bb and #bc show two pairs of perfectly straight up-and-down parallel lines4 ,this is probably hard for you to believe1 since the lines in the right-hand figure seem to definitely bulge outwards4 ,however1 careful measurement with your ruler or a pencil will prove to you that the lines actually are as straight as those in the figure on the left4 ,these latter1 however1 appear straight because they are uninterrupted and unbroken4 ,those at the right appear to bulge outwards merely because there are so many radiating lines running through them4 ,applying this principle to clothes1 you can easily see that the tall1 slender effect you hoped to gain by the straight up-and-down lines of your costume may be entirely ruined if you apply trimmings of any kind which radiate outwards toward these lines4 ,the dresses shown on pages #bb and #bc will prove this to you4 ,the woman at the left with her uninterrupted1 harmonious1 gracefully flowing up-and-down lines looks taller1 slenderer1 more dignified and in every way more pleasing than the woman at the right1 the radiating lines of whose gown make her figure seem to bulge outwards in a most discouraging manner4 ,another striking example of optical illusion showing one reason why some look stouter than they really are is shown in the illustrations on pages #bf and #bg4 ,as in the previous examples1 the two figures 7diamond shape figures in this case7 are1 by actual measurement1 exactly the same size4 ,the horizontal line across the one at the left1 however1 makes it appear much wider than the one at the right with the vertical line through the center4 ,now study the clothes of the two women which illustrate these illusions4 ,both women are holding their arms so as to give their figures a sort of diamond shape4 ,the one at the left1 however1 by her broad1 drooping hat1 her large1 bulky fur stole1 the large-figured material of her tunic1 and especially by the horizontal1 or nearly horizontal lines of her neck1 her girdle1 and the band of fur on her skirt1 gives herself the appearance of conspicuous stoutness4 ,illustration3 ,the middle lines in the two small diagrams are the same length4 ,but on the left1 shorter accompanying lines seem to shorten the one between4 ,on the right longer accompanying lines seem to lengthen the one between4 ,illustration3 ,now see how the woman at the left has unknowingly emphasized her stoutness while the one at the right has properly gained a slender effect by using trimming in accordance with the principles of these optical illusions4 ,on the other hand1 the woman at the right has designed her costume entirely on the principles of vertical lines4 ,the tall hat with its appropriate trimming1 the long1 simple lines of her collar1 her neck-piece1 the row of tiny buttons down the front of her dress1 and indeed the lines of the dress itself all conspire to give her the appearance of height1 smartness1 and slenderness4 ,,making ,,yourself ,,taller ,,than ,,you ,,are ,by the illustrations on pages #cj and #ca you may learn the value of emphasizing a long line by the trick of placing it between two longer lines rather than between two shorter ones4 ,as in the previous examples1 the middle line in each figure is identically the same length4 ,the one at the left1 however1 appears much shorter than the one at the right1 because of a suggestion contained in the parallel lines which surround it4 ,in the dresses illustrated here1 this principle is strikingly applied4 ,the short vertical bands of trimming in the figure at the left make the center band seem shorter than it really is1 whereas1 the long vertical bands in the figure at the right make the center band seem longer than it really is4 ,thus1 by the application of this seemingly unimportant trifle1 the woman at the right seems slenderer1 taller1 and smarter than the one at the left4 ,,lines ,,that ,,slenderize ,,tunics ,just one more example4 ,the figures on pages #cd and #ce show how a longer1 slimmer effect may be created by parallel lines emphasizing an oblique or slanting line4 ,in the figure on the left the plain oblique line seems much more horizontal and wider than it does in the figure on the right where the same line1 actually on the same slant1 seems much longer and more graceful because of the parallel lines which break it and thereby emphasize its length4 ,this effect is gained by using the simple principle of optical illusion shown in the small diagram on page #ce4 ,the line running down from upper left to lower right is actually straight--test it and see4 ,but the two perpendicular lines which break it cause it to seem to drop faster than it really does4 ,this gives the effect of greater height and less width to the entire figure4 ,illustration3 ,note the diagonal line in the opposite diagram4 ,it is actually straight1 but the vertical lines which break it give it a 8going-down-steps0 appearance4 ,this principle is used in the dress at the right--the two vertical panels of trimming break the line of the tunic and give the whole figure a more slender appearance than in the figure above4 ,illustration ,dresses planned with this principle in mind will surely be more successful in their slenderizing effect1 as you will see by these contrasting illustrations4 ,the oblique line at the bottom of the tunic in the dress at the left seems almost horizontal and much wider than the same line in the figure at the right which is made to seem longer and more graceful by the parallel vertical lines of embroidery which intersect it and so emphasize its appearance of length and grace4 ,,apply ,,these ,,rules ,,to ,,every ,,item ,,of ,,your ,,attire ,there are dozens of other tricks which our eyes play on us which must be taken into account by women who want to look slender4 ,a very careful study1 therefore1 of the optical illusions in this chapter will repay you many times in the matter of line1 cut and pattern of every dress1 wrap1 hat1 and pair of shoes that you buy4 ,you must see that the facts of illusion may either work to produce an appearance of bigness or one of smallness4 ,every suggestion in this book is written with the idea of applying these essential principles of optical illusion to your dress--of producing in every case the slenderest possible effects4 ,,secrets ,,even ,,the ,,slender ,,woman ,,must ,,know ,not only very stout women1 but moderately stout women1 and even slender women should also bear these principles in mind1 for even the slender woman can lose all the advantage of her slender silhouette and may actually appear stout by failing to dress in accordance with these optical illusions4 ,an ill-chosen or badly-designed gown or wrap may easily give her the appearance of being many pounds heavier than she really is4 ,when you yourself begin planning your clothes according to these simple1 though magically effective rules1 you will very soon begin to find real artistic pleasure in your clothes1 to say nothing of the improvement in your appearance4 ,i am certain that you will feel about it as ,i did1 that here at last is the only real and permanent way to look slender4 ,for even though by strenuous efforts you are able actually to reduce your weight1 it is not pounds1 but appearance1 that counts4 ,you may know what the scales say1 but other people will weigh you with the eye4 ,dress so you look slender and you can stop worrying about your size and weight and be as healthy1 happy1 and attractive as any of your slender friends4 ,,chapter ,,iii ,,the ,,little ,,things ,,that ,,make ,,the ,,big ,,differences ,as ,i told you in ,chapter ,i1 the stout woman has a great many good points which she sometimes neglects in worrying about her main problem4 ,this is a great mistake because after all the little things do make the big differences and there are so many little things that you can do with scarcely any effort at all which help so tremendously in gaining the effect that you want4 ,,watch ,,your ,,step ,for instance1 there is the matter of walking4 ,i am not going to give you any definite exercises1 but it is a very easy and splendid practice to try to walk with a 8slipping up0 step1 that is1 practice walking easily so that you won't appear to weigh a thousand pounds4 ,if you are light on your feet people will forget to guess your weight4 ,don't let your body slump down1 if you have this tendency4 ,find some exercises that you can do happily and comfortably1 not to reduce1 but to cultivate grace and ease of motion4 ,when you are all alone in the house and nobody is looking1 trip around lightly and exaggerate a light1 easy step4 ,turn on the victrola and do your dusting to music4 ,it will help you wonderfully in gaining that ease of motion which is attractive and pleasing and encourages youth4 ,always endeavor to overcome heaviness in step and movement1 for it adds years both to your appearance and to your feelings4 ,remember that your attitude has so much to do with your good looks4 ,don't ever stand with your feet apart or your hands limp at your sides4 ,one foot a little in front of the other gives an easier appearance and makes you seem less weighty4 ,make a practice of keeping your hands comfortably in front of you1 never rest them on your hips wash woman fashion4 ,such positions broaden the silhouette and give a 8set0 look that is most unbecoming4 ,a large woman with her feet spread apart and arms hanging like burdens always at her sides makes a very heavy and unattractive picture4 ,don't cross your arms4 ,two fat arms can look like four1 if you are not careful4 ,stretch and keep yourself limber4 ,bend so that you are continually used to it1 then your face won't get red every time you drop your handkerchief4 ,and right here it may be well to say that most women use up more energy than they need to and look much more undignified than they need to when they stoop to pick things up4 ,it is neither necessary nor graceful to bend so that your back almost breaks in the middle4 ,it is a much easier and pleasanter gesture to bend at the knees and go straight down until you can reach the object you want to pick up4 ,in doing this you can keep your head straight up all the while and need not get red in the face at all4 ,,what ,,your ,,posture ,,can ,,do ,,for ,,you ,learn to stand up straight like a soldier4 ,most fat women seem to have the idea that they ought to 8scrooch0 down and disguise their size in that way4 ,but in this campaign to dress and be thin the back-bone must be definitely straight4 ,don't hunch yourself up and look like a pillow tied in the middle4 ,sit straight on your chair and stand straight when you are up4 ,hold your head high4 ,a constant practice of chin up makes you appear taller and erases in the easiest possible way any tendency towards a double chin4 ,dressing up to your weight is good psychology for it keeps you alert4 ,you hold your head a little higher and grow naturally to observe that essential rule of standing always just as tall as you possibly can4 ,also1 your mental alertness is a safeguard against additional fat4 ,i never knew it to fail--a definite interest in clothes1 in looking one's best1 keeps the fat away4 ,it has a sort of a rabbit-foot charm about it that really does work4 ,remember continually that it isn't the dress alone that you need watch1 but every detail1 for the little things can destroy the big1 you know1 and the principles of optical illusion must be adhered to as strictly in the little things as in the big4 ,for instance1 eyeglasses can accentuate a round face or slenderize it1 depending upon their prominence and shape4 ,buttons can stick out and look bulky2 shirtwaists when worn with different color skirts can cut you in two2 and belts of different color than skirt or blouse can prove even more treacherous4 ,gloves or shoes that are too small give your size away4 ,lacy stockings emphasize where they shouldn't and are as faulty as they are expensive4 ,before we get through with this book ,i hope that ,i can restore your pride and self-assurance and that by making the most of these little pointers you will find your back-bone right where it ought to be4 ,you will then be able to meet the world with a smile1 knowing that at last you not only feel but look better than you ever have before4 ,,shoes ,,and ,,stockings ,,must ,,be ,,selected ,,with ,,care ,what kind of shoes and stockings do you wear8 ,not pumps1 ,i hope1 because your ,illustration3 ,above--,neatly shod feet4 ,left--,low cut pumps and single strap emphasize fat4 ,heavy shoes have too much decoration4 ,stockings must always be on straight and well held up1 and shoes must fit4 ,straps that hold firmly are more effective than those that are narrow and less restraining4 ,heavy shoes should be plain in design4 ,skirts should always be long enough to cover the largest part of the leg below the knee4 weight is too great to be comfortable in them1 and besides if you have studied the principles of optical illusion as carefully as you should have1 you will realize that pumps will not give you the harmonious effect that you want to achieve in your costume4 ,a bulge is sure to show at the top which is not only uncomfortable for you but shows in itself that you are fat4 ,wear a strap or laced slipper--any kind that is in good taste1 big enough1 and not too heavy4 ,heavy shoes on a stout woman interfere with lightness of movement which is something for which you must continually strive4 ,unless you have very attractive1 well-proportioned feet1 do not attempt to decorate the bottom of your dress1 for it will not only shorten you but will call attention to your feet4 ,if they are very small they make the body appear larger and if the ankles are large they give an undesirable heaviness1 so that the very best way1 in any event1 is not to call attention to them4 ,many authorities say that a black sheer stocking is the very best that a stout woman can wear1 that a heavy black or dark colored stocking is conspicuous1 and a light stocking is 8taboo0 because it breaks the height and interferes with the straight line effect4 ,so choose sheer stockings1 but don't hesitate to buy 8out0 sizes if you need them4 ,if they are big enough over the knees they will fit better around the ankles4 ,i know some big women who refuse to buy 8out0 size stockings because they are ashamed to go in and ask for them1 and ,i know some medium slender women who buy them because they think they last longer4 ,so pretend that you are medium slender and buy them if they are more comfortable4 ,illustration3 ,round necklines emphasize width4 ,even though tempting1 they are taboo for those who would slenderize4 ,long necklines are always pleasing and are of many variations4 ,a close study of current fashion books will give ideas that can always be accentuated in length without outstepping ,fashion dictation4 ,,necklines ,,are ,,slenderized ,,by ,,correct ,,jewelry ,,and ,,collars ,we big women usually have some one who loves us enough to give us jewelry and we in turn love them enough to want to wear it on every occasion4 ,if it doesn't express slenderness--if it's a big cameo or a heavy pair of earrings or a string of round marble beads1 especially in dog collar arrangement--put it away and forget where you put it4 ,wear such jewelry some morning when no one is looking2 have your own little 8revelry0 and have it over with1 for such jewelry puts on more pounds than entire boxes of candy and makes us look like jeweled couch cushions1 which we can never afford to do4 ,a necklace that is slender1 well made1 and with a tendency to plainness is a real asset to a stout woman as it helps the collar line1 slenderizes the face1 and gives the appearance of length over the front that is pleasing1 but avoid by all means heavy crystals and don't ever wear beads unless they give a definitely desirable lengthening effect4 ,watch your collars closely4 ,work for slenderness and becomingness4 ,avoid all neck lines that go around or that are conspicuously colored4 ,a cream collar is always better than a snow white one and a soft piqu or linen collar is better than a starched one4 ,remember that long string ribbon ties can be real friends if you will let them4 ,tailor your collars or use soft lace that is not baby looking4 ,we big folks must always keep away from babyishness1 must learn to stand on our own two feet and look straight ahead toward the goal of slenderness4 ,illustration3 ,gloves1 purses and necklaces need to be chosen with infinite care to aid in slenderizing4 ,link chains1 cords1 fine pearls or small oblong beads are best as necklaces4 ,slender flat purses are desirable and neat1 well-fitting gloves necessary4 ,,purses1 ,,fans ,,and ,,other ,,accessories ,pocketbooks and purse bags must be slender1 never round or bulky looking1 and must always harmonize with the dress and never be conspicuously colored4 ,remember too1 not to let your bag dangle awkwardly from your hand or add to your width by the way you carry it4 ,let it be a part of the line of your costume just as it is in harmony with the color4 ,graceful fans of subdued colors often aid in a pleasing gracefulness1 but little fans allow of an uncomplimentary comparison1 just as do small1 gay parasols4 ,fat fingers are shortened and made more fat by heavy rings4 ,earrings widen the face4 ,sometimes a slender face accompanies a broad body4 ,in such a case1 earrings are an advantage if they are appropriate and graceful4 ,jeweled belts1 conspicuous in ornamentation1 must all be given away to willowy friends1 because they could prove helpful to them and a menace to you4 ,,neatness ,,and ,,cleanliness ,,are ,,essential ,once when ,i was writing a book on dress1 a fashion authority and personal friend insisted that ,i should not put in a chapter on cleanliness1 which ,i wanted very much to use1 saying that it 8put an ugly frame on an otherwise beautiful picture40 ,but personal cleanliness and careful grooming to my mind are so necessary that no book on dress would be complete without them4 ,we may not have beautiful clothes1 and may grieve that we are not willowy enough to wear the smart extremes in dress1 but our grieving is totally unnecessary4 ,we can learn truly to be as attractive1 as admirable as our slender sisters if we set out with the will and determination to express perfection so far as our ability and intelligence will allow4 ,a fresh bath1 some bath talcum1 clean1 well-fitting underthings1 neat1 good-looking shoes1 and modest stockings can give an enhancing foundation for the dress we have so carefully planned4 ,and when we are spic and span from the inside out we are sure to dress with more dignity1 more poise1 than we possibly could otherwise4 ,,cosmetics ,,either ,,add ,,or ,,detract ,thick lips should never wear rouge1 and black eyebrows should never be blackened2 neither should a pale1 grayed face be surrounded by a dull gray or black hat4 ,this is all out of key and attracts unnecessary attention4 ,we must express some color tone1 just as we do personality1 but it must be subtle or vivacious1 discreet or bold1 and in both cases must be individually becoming4 ,if the eyes are dull in color1 do not wear bright colors on your hats for the eyes lose in comparison1 and eyes can always express friendly happiness and individuality if we surround them properly4 ,avoid a shiny nose as you would the ,plague4 ,beware of oily creams4 ,remember an astringent reduces and controls and that #ii cases out of a hundred need oilless creams rather than oily ones4 ,beware of rouge4 ,your face usually will have color enough4 ,if it hasn't1 use it1 oh1 so wisely4 ,study your face carefully1 experiment with color in front of an honest mirror that is placed in full day light4 ,rouge and powder rightly applied can narrow the face and prove very advantageous1 so experiment and put the color just where you need it1 but don't put on any until you have picked up a couple of things from the floor and walked around the room quickly at least twice4 ,work to look immaculate4 ,it is so much more becoming4 ,baby faces and full proportioned bodies don't go well together1 and harmony we must have throughout this program4 ,if your forehead is low1 powder the forehead generously and comb the hair back as much as becomingness will allow4 ,this will tend to add height to the body and length to the face4 ,it is said that a large woman is usually very dainty in her habits just as a large man invariably has a very tiny1 neat signature1 so let it be an asset1 and be dainty about your use of cosmetics4 ,it is so much more pleasing than an extravagant use could ever be4 ,,think ,,of ,,these ,,little ,,things ,,beforehand ,buy a few things and have everything right4 ,think of all of your wardrobe at one time4 ,be sure that everything goes together agreeably4 ,take care to keep every part of your clothing in good repair and immaculately clean4 ,every woman can gain a reputation for being well dressed if she remembers not to be haphazard in buying1 wearing1 and caring for her clothes4 ,if you have any of these habits1 come1 let us talk them over confidentially1 because ,i1 too1 have had to learn by sheer necessity to overcome1 one by one1 these very expensive1 annoying tendencies1 and the only way ,i succeeded was to learn1 as a matter of habit1 to hang things up carefully when ,i took them off1 to make sure that dress shields were in place1 and to take special care to have everything in right shape when it was time to dress4 ,take very special pains to have all supporters securely fastened1 stockings on straight1 and each garment rightly in place1 for neatness in dress is more essential for us than almost any other thing4 ,in fact1 fastidious care of person and clothes is one feature which requires constant vigilance4 ,avoid every tendency toward over dress4 ,don't trim yourself too much4 ,modesty1 simplicity--intricate simplicity perhaps1 but a beautiful simplicity--is a definite part of our program and must be followed out religiously to conceal at all times an extra #cj or #dj pounds4 ,be sure that the brassiere and corset overlap at their joining4 ,the brassiere should come over the corset a good #b inches to insure its holding4 ,if the abdomen is full or stomach high1 supporters fastened to the brassiere at the front are an advantage4 ,never allow your shoes to squeak or your gloves to pinch in their tightness4 ,never allow a spot to show on any garment4 ,be immaculate1 work at it1 keep at it1 for you1 you know1 have a definite purpose that must be achieved4 ,,chapter ,,iv ,,foundations ,,that ,,slenderize ,although this is termed the corsetless era1 the best dressed women are still wearing corsets and will continue to wear them because they realize the necessity of retaining lovely curves and lines4 ,when the slender woman is careful about her corset1 what must the responsibility be of the large woman8 ,it is just this--that she must wear a corset--that she must select it with such care and have it fitted with such perfection that even she can forget it once it is on4 ,no evidence of a corset is ever seen on a correctly dressed woman4 ,,the ,,art ,,of ,,selecting ,,your ,,corset ,wear corsets for comfort and perfection in dress1 not with the thought that they will reduce4 ,remember that you always need your wits and all the alacrity of thought you can master and a too tight corset paralyzes both4 ,read with me through this section because here you will get some real help and be able to apparently reduce your hip measure two inches and your bust possibly six4 ,do you know that when your corset is a #bh waist or over you are counted by the corset manufacturers in the stout class8 ,that seems absurd4 ,one would think they would wait at least until the measurement was #cj or #cb before calling one stout1 but since this is so1 no one need be sensitive about ordering a size that is right4 ,that means large enough usually1 for you have a long range--#bf to #df waist measurement--so buy a corset that is big enough1 that allows the flesh to rest comfortably yet be properly controlled4 ,tight corsets are a menace as are tight brassieres1 and by packing the flesh in a fixed position1 grace of movement is destroyed and you are made to appear actually larger than you are4 ,,how ,,to ,,know ,,when ,,your ,,corset ,,fits ,,exactly ,don't ever let your modesty or your pride keep you from being fitted properly4 ,all merchants and corsetieres expect to fit the corsets they sell4 ,they know their stock better than you do1 and realize that a proper corset can definitely and permanently help in correcting line1 moulding it easily and gracefully1 making a satisfied customer for them4 ,a full proportioned figure is ugly only when it runs over4 ,graceful1 even curves are pleasing to see1 and we big folk can make our own curves graceful if we will4 ,illustration3 ,your corset should be long enough to hold the flesh securely and evenly4 ,but the front stays must be short enough to allow you to sit and bend comfortably4 ,always sit down in your corset when it is being fitted to make sure that the stays in the front are not too long4 ,they may be shortened easily and are much better1 because you cannot comfortably sit rared back as you must when the stays are too long4 ,illustration3 8,a0 illustrates a corset long over the hips and with elastic inserts at the waistline1 suitable for a medium figure4 8,b0 shows a heavier type suitable for short figures that require considerable support4 8,c0 shows a very comfortable and practical corset suitable to medium large figures4 8,d0 shows the front and back of a girdle corset with elastic inserts4 ,this gives a youthful line1 particularly suited to the athletic type4 ,illustration3 ,rubber1 or silk and rubber corsets or combination corsets and brassieres give a smooth outline and often are graceful and becoming4 ,when new they reduce the hips two to three inches4 ,be sure to have them fitted properly4 ,if too small1 they are very uncomfortable2 if too large1 useless4 ,corsets that lace or fasten in the front give a smoother back and are more easy to adjust than are back lace corsets4 ,their height1 length1 elasticity and weight must be considered in buying and fitting1 so that your corset when on is in nowise evident to you in feeling or to the eye4 ,a corset does not fit correctly if the line of either top or bottom is visible when the dress is on4 ,corsets should be kept in perfect repair and discarded when their line is lost4 ,,which ,,is ,,your ,,type ,,of ,,corset8 ,some corset folks say there are eleven types of women to fit1 others nine1 others six4 ,but1 in general1 these are the usual types3 ,mrs4 ,brown is big in the hips and small in the bust4 ,for her type of figure a corset low above the waist1 long in the hips--front laced1 is best4 ,supple corsets1 long in the back1 are a preventative against a large back and help to slenderize4 ,they should1 therefore1 be worn as long as grace and comfort will allow4 ,if they are too short1 a roll of fat will form around where they terminate and cause you to lose the easy curve that even big folks can be proud of4 ,mrs4 ,brown should also have a slip to wear over the corset in preference to a brassiere4 ,the slip should be semifitted1 shaped over the hips so that not a wrinkle or line will show4 ,mrs4 ,jones--another stout type--is normal size but large in the abdomen4 ,she should have a corset fitted close over the hips1 but not tight in the waist1 allowing the fat to drop down in the top of the corset and find a comfortable resting place4 ,a brassiere that is long in the front should be worn4 ,a square shoulder1 broad hip type of figure needs a deep girdle--an elastic one is best--one that is low in the waist1 snug and straight over the hips with an easy fitting boyish form brassiere4 ,,the ,,best ,,kind ,,of ,,brassiere ,,for ,,you 8,and what is a boyish form brassiere80 you ask4 ,a straight piece of material with the darts coming down from the top in the front4 ,you can make one for yourself in a few minutes4 ,for a fashionable line across the bust don't ever dart from the waistline up1 as we have been doing in the past4 ,for when you do1 the fullness is pushed up under the chin1 as it were1 and actually will add six inches to the bust measure4 ,if you are small in the waist and large in the hips1 you can1 by right corseting and 8brassiering0 cause some of the fat of the hips and abdomen to come up slightly1 thus acquiring a more slender and better balanced effect4 ,but as a general rule1 let your watchword be3 ,distribute the fat comfortably and correctly4 ,don't crowd it or push it here and there4 ,your face1 your disposition1 and your figure as well will show it if you do4 ,you can't be uncomfortable and be well poised4 ,illustration3 ,brassieres are as necessary as corsets4 ,they should never be so tight as to bind1 but always close enough to give a smooth outer line4 ,they must always be high enough to confine the bust perfectly and long enough to come down well over the corset so that an unbroken waistline is attained4 ,darts at the tops of brassieres give good bust control and hold the garment in correct position on the figure4 ,hunt for the 8large above the waist0 figure4 ,if the bust is very low1 be sure to wear a brassiere that lifts up slightly and confines comfortably4 ,youth in its greatest perfection can have unconfined busts2 older women1 especially large women1 should take care that no shaping of the bust is discernible4 ,if ,v necks are becoming and the bust is full1 provide a band of ribbon or a double fold of ,georgette and wear it over the brassiere1 pinning it tight and high around the figure4 ,this will conceal the crease between the busts4 ,finally1 don't fail1 when you are being fitted in your corset1 to stand up in front of a mirror1 walk right up and 8shoulder arms0 and survey yourself4 ,the corsetiere is sure to be stout4 ,who ever saw a thin one8 ,she will sympathize with you and be patient4 ,try on her best models--not her silkiest ones1 but her best designed ones4 ,sit down1 stand up1 bend over4 ,buy the one that shows the least red in your face when you bend4 ,be sure it has plenty of supporters4 ,illustration3 ,left--,corselettes may be worn by large women having firm flesh1 the 8athletic type10 but exercise must go with them to prevent an accumulation of flesh that is sure to occur when the body is unconfined4 ,right--,brassieres for evening wear may have a firm band of ribbon sewed tight to the top and this brought around and pinned securely at the center back4 ,drawing this close will insure the garments staying up properly4 ,,the ,,importance ,,of ,,smooth1 ,,perfect ,,fitting ,,underthings ,put your corset under your arm1 stop and buy #b yards of #dj-;inch nainsook or crpe de ,chine1 go home and make yourself a combination slip4 ,this is to be worn over your corset and brassiere and will give a perfectly smooth foundation for your dresses4 ,remember that your corset1 brassiere1 and slip must be so well fitted that no bumps or hangovers will be evident4 ,we fat women--and ,i don't know why--have a natural hankering for lacy underwear1 and that hankering is just as uncontrollable as our appetite for luscious bonbons4 ,i do not intend to tell you that you can't have lovely undergarments1 but you must make sure that the lace or trimming is put where it cannot bulge out4 ,knitted underwear fits best1 but you needn't wear just the most ordinary kind1 because with a little ingenuity a plain1 inexpensive piece can be bought and trimmed attractively with bands or strips of lace1 straight line fashion1 so that they will have a dainty1 handmade look and yet be as smooth and straight on the body as can be4 ,combination suits similar to those illustrated are suggested for slenderness4 ,if you have ruffles on any that you have in the dresser drawer1 take them off4 ,press out the ruffles and stitch the bands on plain4 ,don't indulge in ruffles6 ,illustration3 ,a variety of slips are shown4 ,the one at the left has a #b-;inch band of fine net at top and bottom4 ,this as a substitute for lace is quite as dainty and less bulky4 ,for a full bust1 the diagonal darts at the right are advantageous1 as they make possible a straight slim skirt4 ,illustration3 ,for your slips remember that stripes partially concealed are effective yet unobtrusive1 as for example1 a striped slip under a plain voile or georgette dress4 ,if you are broad through the shoulders1 shape the slip to reduce the width4 ,deep hems make extra petticoats unnecessary4 ,fulness in a slip is essential1 otherwise the garment will pull up when you sit down1 making you seem stouter than you are4 ,an inverted plait at the center back or at the sides is the best way to add fulness4 ,illustration3 ,in selecting underwear1 choose light-weight1 smooth1 close-fitting garments--fine knitted ones or those of softest muslin4 ,a shirt and bloomers are preferred by some--others1 the straight combination4 ,select that which suits you best1 but keep in mind the essentials of slenderness4 ,omit all draw ribbons at the top of lingerie4 ,use tiny lengthwise darts to fit the garments close and smooth4 ,for the same reasons1 omit all gathers at the waistline4 ,fit the garment so smooth that not a wrinkle or line is visible when the dress is on4 ,by following these really simple rules in regard to your underthings you are ready to give your attention to the part of your costume which shows2 namely1 dress1 wrap1 and hat1 but don't make the mistake of thinking that these are the only things that show4 ,for without smooth1 perfectly fitting underwear1 corset1 brassiere and slip1 your outer garments cannot possibly give you that appearance of sylph-like slenderness which is your goal4 ,,chapter ,v ,,cardinal ,,rules ,,for ,,dresses ,,that ,,camouflage ,,size ,we will now assume that right corsets and slips have been acquired1 that you see and realize the possibilities of optical illusions and that a keen desire is evident to avoid1 overcome1 and correct every fault that hinders a right expression of clothes4 ,i use the word 8right0 in a broad sense1 because in working to look slender in dress you will necessarily achieve a happy degree of perfection that will prove quite as much of an asset as the appearance of slenderness4 ,i know you are eager for the start to actual rules and formulas1 but first we must acquire enough 8feeling0 for line1 color1 and fabric to use the three wisely4 ,the most economical way to do this is to start with what you have on hand4 ,,remodeling ,,your ,,present ,,wardrobe ,to the closet now4 ,take out your big-figured dress4 ,every large woman owns a figured dress of some kind4 ,there is something different about you if you haven't one4 ,i don't know why1 but evidently we all have felt that we might get lost in the expanse of the pattern and become less conspicuous4 ,take time to put this figured dress on so that you won't get red in the face doing it4 ,yes1 you will find it is too short waisted2 the sleeves are too short1 the neck is too high1 the skirt too full4 ,you hated to admit that you needed a #dd pattern so used a #db and allowed a little extra room across the hips4 7,i know just how you felt1 for ,i have done the same thing myself74 ,now survey yourself in front of the mirror4 ,you haven't any goods like the dress1 so you must add something to it4 ,for a figured dress of ,georgette or silk1 plain color ,georgette is suggested4 ,see on page #gc how the sleeves are lengthened by a deep cuff1 the collar effect lowered by a scarf1 the waist let down and made looser by means of the excess material in the skirt4 ,illustration3 ,here is a large-figured dress remodeled to give it length lines and a more slender appearance4 ,the neckline has been changed1 the heavy prominent girdle removed and a narrow belt substituted1 the waistline dropped1 the sleeves lengthened and a scarf of plain material added4 ,next1 try on that plain tailored dress that you have been planning to rip up or give away4 ,if it has an out of style waistline or heavily braided revers1 make up your mind to sacrifice them now--to rip apart and to take off the revers4 ,consider some black satin if the dress is dark blue1 or some white piqu if white is becoming1 and think of the improvement some long1 slim revers and some dainty turn-back cuffs will make4 ,take the belts or waistlines off the separate skirts that you own and visualize how some plain boyish form brassieres as camisole tops for these skirts will improve them1 joined as shown on page #ge in either one of the ways suggested4 ,your blouses may be worn over these4 ,by this method you may not be able to camouflage the size so readily but you can decrease the appearance of years by a considerable amount4 ,isn't it easy to see that on page #gg the silhouette on the right is years younger than that on the left8 ,try on all the dresses you have4 ,consider the tightness of the waist and the length of it4 ,look once again at the little figures in ,chapter ,,ii that illustrate so well the laws of optical illusion4 ,remember that if you are fat in the back your dress must have some kind of a neckline trimming or scarf collar1 long and slim as on page #gi4 ,this makes a lovely addition to any dress4 ,illustration3 ,camisole tops are advantageous and will allow a skirt to appear easy on the figure4 ,for wrap-around skirts always allow fulness by panels or concealed plaits so that your skirt will not stretch unshapely when you sit4 ,after you have had this little seance with yourself in the fittings1 get out your dress form1 wrap it with cotton1 cloth or soft tissue paper until it is as big as you are1 put a straight line lining over it that fits you easily and yet perfectly1 then put your dresses on it4 ,loosen them at the waist1 ease the sleeves if necessary and work to add a little youth1 a little smartness1 a little trimness by means of additional materials used in a wholly intelligent way4 ,,selecting ,,new ,,clothes ,,that ,,will ,,slenderize ,,you ,now that we have improved the clothes on hand1 let us think about the purchase or making of new ones4 ,if you make your own clothes you can work out the points for yourself as you adopt them4 ,if you have a dressmaker1 gain her cooperation4 ,she may not understand the principles of 8optical illusion10 but she will be delighted to have suggestions that tend to slenderize1 and ,i am sure she will work with you happily in carrying out the ideas and instructions given4 ,illustration3 ,a shirt waist dress1 when all of one color1 is often becoming1 but the lines must all point downward and the waist line must be straight and easy4 ,in remodeling1 as you see1 a new collar has been provided1 the shoulder shortened1 fulness cut out at the shoulder1 cuff narrowed to allow the sleeves to be lifted1 the belt opened and lined to give ease and width4 ,the skirt was shortened at the top and attached to a camisole brassiere4 ,the fulness of the skirt was brought around and tucked to give desired length line4 ,before buying a new dress1 suit1 or wrap1 study fashion pictures1 dozens of them1 and try to determine how your type should express the 8new0 in fashions4 ,choose what you like best in the new mode1 cut out the pictures from the magazines and fashion publications1 go over them carefully again and again1 and determine by study and elimination what dress and wrap will give the best result for the money spent4 ,as an aid in obtaining other valuable pointers1 when you go into the shops to try on new dresses1 observe the saleswoman very closely4 ,she may not understand either what you mean by 8optical illusion10 but if you understand the principles you can get a great deal of help from her for she will let you know at once what is out of proportion in your figure1 what there is about your shape that doesn't correspond to their models4 ,she will invariably say1 8,i am afraid your hips are too big for that dress10 or 8,we have only a few dresses that will fit you4 ,you are too large in the bust for that10 etc4 ,now1 keep your disposition and listen1 then determine to go home and concentrate upon making less conspicuous the part that strikes her as being out of proportion4 ,remarkable improvements may be made in this way and the 8hardened0 saleswoman can truly be of service1 for she1 unlike your friends1 is not inclined to flattery unless she has visions of a sale4 ,illustration3 ,even in a surplice waist1 length can be attained1 as the illustration shows4 ,sleeve trimmings should be avoided that come even with the waist line4 ,as you see1 they give width where length is needed4 ,heavy stiff trimmings are difficult and must be very smart to be attractive4 ,the softer1 more slender the trimming1 the better usually4 ,skirts should be designed to be free of flare4 ,illustration3 ,current fashions are always whimsical but back of every dress or underneath it is a foundation that makes the skeleton of the dress4 ,this you must observe in every pattern you use or dress you buy4 ,the trimming you can vary to suit your needs in slenderness1 but your foundation lines must be suitable if you use trimming4 ,a variety of dresses are given1 shown on the opposite page--the waist line dress1 the narrow panel front1 the wide panel front1 the draped side line1 and the tunic line4 ,these represent good foundations and are in themselves slenderizing1 providing you adhere to the code of long lines and simplicity in decoration and ornament4 ,only careless persons can afford to buy clothes haphazardly4 ,even the slender woman thinks about them and plans about them4 ,and just consider what a corps of helpers she has6 ,a thousand hands to work to make modish clothes for the perfect #cf1 while only a dozen in proportion are working for us big folk6 ,so it is easy to see why we must learn for ourselves what we can and cannot wear1 what to emphasize and subdue4 8,we cannot eat our cake and have it too10 is a line familiar to us all4 ,we can't enjoy our pounds unless we work to dress them so that their number is not even surmised1 let alone accurately guessed4 ,one clever woman ,i know1 capable of making her own frocks and coats as well1 visits the exclusive shops1 buys the most becoming1 simple dress that she finds1 often paying as much as #bjj for it4 ,this she copies in other shades and materials1 developing three or four distinctly becoming dresses at far less cost than the original gown4 ,by averaging up she has modestly priced frocks1 all smart1 in good taste1 and wearable4 ,i have always said that if ,i should ever go into the dress business1 it would be to make slender dresses for big folks1 and ,i would employ all big women to sell them1 because1 as ,i said about our jolly big friend1 the corsetiere1 she has an understanding heart1 knows how difficult it is to find dresses that have enough youth1 enough value in line1 and are sufficiently becoming to us who tip the scales to any great degree4 ,and she would lend aid to the discouraged soul that needs to seek and try1 experiment and insist until she finds that which is becoming4 ,,the ,,truth ,,about ,,surplice ,,fronts ,when the bust is full and the skirt length is short it is wise to use a panel effect in the front and let the belt or waistline finish extend around from side to side across the back1 thus leaving an unbroken front line4 ,as a rule1 the large figure looks best in a very long waistline1 but this does not apply to such proportions as these4 ,it is always wise for this type to beware of surplice front dresses4 ,the mature figure1 flat in front1 can wear a surplice very well and often it serves to relieve an undesirable plainness4 ,many fashion artists1 when they draw full bust figures1 take special pains to put in surplice fronts1 but experience will teach that it is very difficult to duplicate in fabric the easy1 smooth curve indicated by the pencil4 ,illustration3 ,a panel front is always more desirable than a surplice for figures full in the bust4 ,the seams provide a good fitting line and make darts unnecessary4 ,surplice fronts are as difficult for a very full bust as are plain backs on fat shoulders4 ,if your back is full and round1 remember to use tucks1 bands1 folds1 plaits1 or something that will definitely break the width4 ,panels also help1 so don't be afraid to use them4 ,big backs broken in width are far more pleasing than broad expanses that know no termination4 ,remember the panel can befriend you1 so keep it close but only when it can compliment you4 ,if your back is fat and wide looking after you finish with this book1 it is your own fault1 for on page #hg you can see six simple ways of creating an optical illusion by lines that make the back less wide in appearance4 ,,sleeves ,,for ,,large ,,arms ,if your arms are fat1 don't wear long shoulder dresses or kimono sleeves4 ,they just aren't meant for you4 ,from point of style1 becomingness1 service1 they will fail you all the way4 ,on the other hand1 don't overdo narrow shoulders4 ,strike a happy medium4 ,upper arms that are larger than the armhole are quite common1 and the mistake is often made of fitting the armhole to the sleeve rather than the sleeve to the armhole4 ,have the armhole comfortable and smooth and set a gusset in the sleeves or increase the seams in cutting from the armhole to the elbow4 ,illustration3 ,we can smile and aid our front1 our back must always protect us by being at least inoffensive and pleasing4 ,here are six ways to slenderize backs of dresses4 ,study them1 find that which becomes you best4 ,once you have found your line1 hold to it1 but trim or effect it differently so that there is interest and variety4 ,observe ,fashion illustrations carefully for backs with interesting length lines1 and don't allow yourself to forget that they are just as important as the front in achieving slenderness4 ,remember that fulness at the hips is advisable1 both as a protection to the dress and to insure more grace in sitting4 ,a dress that draws up on the figure is always to be avoided4 ,i know a woman who was wearing size #dd dresses that hung on her unattractively and heavily4 ,she said that she couldn't get her arms into the sleeves of size #dj or #db models4 ,a wise saleswoman ripped the sleeve seams1 inserted gussets and moulded her beautifully into a tailored frock size #dj4 ,since then she looks #bj pounds lighter1 all because of this little adjustment4 ,a bias sleeve is sometimes a distinct advantage for a stout arm4 ,take flannel or the heavy crpes4 ,a 8tight as the skin0 sleeve may be fitted that has 8give0 enough for comfort1 yet not a quarter of an inch surplus4 ,this type of sleeve is not suitable to flimsy materials1 but very good for the firmer fabrics and is sometimes economical for cutting1 as often the sleeve pattern can be placed on a true bias grain to advantage4 ,there are many details in sleeves to consider when you want to appear smaller than you actually are4 ,your success is due largely to your knowledge and its right application4 ,so watch1 look1 and listen for every hint that will aid you in expressing perfection4 ,it is attainable1 and every achievement will stimulate greater desire and effort4 ,years ago1 in fitting a well-to-do woman1 who was very 8heavy set0 in mind as well as in body1 ,i remember that she would insist upon drawing her arms up1 crossing them over her ample bosom and saying that the armhole was too tight and that more and more must be trimmed out until her waist was unbalanced--narrower across the front than it should be1 wholly deforming the dress4 ,no dress can be beautiful if it is out of balance2 it is contrary to every rule of right design4 ,illustration3 7,left7--,a gusset at the under arm 7left7 is advisable when the arm is larger than the armhole4 7,center7--,sleeves cut on the true bias1 as shown1 are often advantageous when very close-fitting sleeves are desired4 7,right7--,beware of dresses that are too narrow across the chest4 ,they always make the bust appear larger4 ,i know one clever designer who makes for her larger customers a very firm net foundation waist with low square neck in front and back and close-fitting sleeves that extend almost to the elbow4 ,in this she puts the dress shields4 ,this net foundation1 especially the sleeve part1 protects the dress1 makes it last a third longer1 and has the advantage of confining the arms slightly4 ,illustration3 ,measure and find out if it is your arms or your body you 8need to treat0 in slenderizing4 ,sometimes very large arms accompany medium bust measurements and vice versa4 ,knowing this makes for a wiser use of line4 ,if your arms are small in proportion to the bust1 as in 8,a10 use a normal shoulder line4 ,if they are large in proportion to your bust1 as in 8,b10 cut the shoulder high4 ,if arms and bust are large1 use a length line on the sleeves1 as in 8,c40 ,illustration3 ,a foundation lining of net that holds the sleeve is often advisable for sheer dresses4 ,elastic should hold it at the waist4 ,the bottom of the sleeves and the neck may be bound or picoted4 ,,slenderizing ,,fleshy ,,shoulders ,large shoulders are a problem because they can appear quite as full as the bust and by the roundness add years1 which1 of course1 nobody wants4 ,a collar that is just right in depth1 not too deep or too short in the back1 is the first essential4 ,for your individual type1 you must make experiments4 ,take a piece of muslin or paper and cut out modish collars that you think would be becoming to you4 ,then try them on with two mirrors and view the back1 front1 and sides1 examining well down past the waistline1 because the collar line and belt line must always agree4 ,turn under the collar edge1 add to it1 and after careful observation1 do what your eye tells you is best4 ,never let your collar be so long as to look like a cape unless it is a cape2 and don't let it be of a length or size to lie up on your back like a doily on a table4 ,attach it--have it there for a purpose1 that of giving a correct and becoming line4 ,illustration3 ,let your collar aid you4 ,beware of collars 7like those at the left7 that widen the shoulders or that cushion the back4 ,fashion often allows of back collar trimmings that are both slenderizing and becoming1 such as those at the right4 ,hunt for them1 then use them wisely4 ,if you are full in the back1 don't wear shoulder capes or bertha collars4 ,never wear heavy collars or babyish lace or ribbon1 and avoid collars of vivid color that contrast definitely in color with that of your dress4 ,,disguising ,,weight ,,from ,,the ,,waistline ,,down ,the first importance for a figure with most of the weight below the waist is the design and trimming of the sleeves4 ,it is a weakness in which we must never indulge to plan for what should be graceful flowing sleeves1 but which usually turn out to be a tragedy of adding pounds to pounds4 ,in summer time and for evening wear1 the sleeve may fit easily but without flare and reach to a point just above the elbow1 provided there is no trimming feature or cuff4 ,for all other types of dresses the long1 close-fitting sleeve is wisest4 ,by adding to or taking from the length of sleeves1 emphasis may be given to any part of the body from the hip line up1 as the bottom of a sleeve is naturally a line which will attract the eye1 so that if this is in the wrong position it is easy to imagine the result4 ,experiment with this feature1 and convince yourself of the truth of the statement4 ,some big women have a full abdomen like a man1 which causes their skirts to hike out at the bottom like ill-fitting maternity clothes4 ,for this type1 correct maternity line dresses are best4 ,a bodice waist that is long in the front should be used4 ,the skirt is attached to this quite low in front1 then side panels are applied to give a correct balance and to widen the figure at the side4 ,a variation of this figure has the full diaphragm but a flat appearance just at the front of the hip bones4 ,this type is recognized as difficult to fit1 although it is easily possible to conceal both points satisfactorily4 ,first1 the full front figure must mask its size by long collars1 panels1 plaits1 or some flat trimming1 bringing these down so that1 if possible1 they may aid the hollow sides4 ,here again a thorough knowledge of the laws of optical illusion will stand you in good stead4 ,if your skirt still pokes out at the hem in the center front1 follow the suggestion given previously and provide a corset that laces in front and that laces up so that the abdomen is held in1 also one that is loose enough at the waist line to allow the flesh to rest up in it4 ,a few suggestions are illustrated that may be applied in making a new dress or in correcting one that you have--or in perfecting a plain dress that you might purchase4 ,oftentimes1 a full abdomen has as an accomplice a sway back4 ,for this1 a panel in the back that hangs from the shoulder and that is caught at or below the belt line in the back is advantageous4 ,a slightly low belt line is also desirable4 ,illustration3 ,when the bust is large and the hips are small1 lines as shown at the left are becoming4 ,a ,v-line in the vest may also be used if the bust is not too high4 ,if the figure is large and evenly proportioned1 a definite centered lengthwise line1 as shown in the second design1 will break the width4 ,if the waist is short and the skirt long1 length lines1 as at the right1 carried down on the skirt will balance better and detract from the short waist4 ,the neck line of this dress allows for a small brooch or bar pin4 ,frequently1 large figures--though this is also common to slender folk--find that the back skirt length measure is shorter than the front4 ,elderly folk1 especially1 find this trouble where the bust has shrunken or is small in proportion to the hips4 ,for such types straight line dresses with a belt line across the back1 or a narrow sash belt that ties at the side1 are advisable4 ,long collars are also efficacious1 and scarf collars particularly so4 ,,necklines ,,make ,a ,,tremendous ,,difference ,in order to counteract the roundness of the face1 and provide some contrast for its fullness1 it is usually best to decide upon a neckline emphasizing angles1 not curves4 ,always have the dress cut well up at the back but dropping down with straight lines to a deep ,v or square4 ,it is wise to have the neckline cut low and fill in the opening with sheer ,georgette1 batiste or lace in an inconspicuous color1 such as delicate flesh or deep cream4 ,the short stout figure with a short neck and medium small head is one type of stout that can wear a ,u neck or a slightly rounding neck line becomingly4 ,such a neck makes the head and neck appear larger and gives a good balance4 ,illustration3 ,for sway backs or figures that curve in definitely at the back waistline1 a broken panel1 as at left1 is often advisable4 ,it is especially desirable if the figure is tall or very large4 ,an interesting lengthwise trimming is shown in the central figure4 ,such a line can be attained in contrasting or harmonizing fabric or with embroidery tucking or plain stitching1 and is adaptable to tailored or sports clothes4 ,full front figures will find this line especially advantageous4 ,very wide or large figures will see merit in side panels that divide the front in three1 as shown at the right4 ,such a design allows for a close-fitting foundation dress and is especially suited to older women4 ,,the ,,importance ,,of ,,these ,,slenderizing ,,trimmings ,think long and carefully about trimmings because a misuse of decoration can mar the lines of an otherwise becoming gown4 ,trimming1 judiciously placed1 will add to the appearance of smartness and may by its position break a wide plain surface into two or perhaps three spaces1 adding with each line another point to our illusion of slenderness4 ,it is essential that trimming be placed so as to emphasize length1 but do not make the mistake of applying it indiscriminately1 but rather1 to draw attention to a closing1 or to finish the edge of a panel or for some similar useful purpose4 ,never use a large figured trimming or a bright colored banding4 ,plaids1 big polka dots1 pronounced stripes1 heavily embroidered fabrics or 8gew gaws0 are not for the big woman4 ,strive for distinctive line which is1 in itself1 simple4 ,wear as good quality fabric as your purse can buy1 but be modest about your size and any decoration you employ4 ,quantities of string beads are to be avoided1 too1 as should anything which will make the wearer conspicuous4 ,self fabrics1 that is1 the material of which the dress is made1 is always good4 ,it may be tucked or plaited and inserted between cut edges1 applied as a band1 or it may be used to form a cord1 which in turn forms ornament of various sizes and shapes4 ,small patterned laces in the wider widths are appropriate too1 and add richness and dignity to clothes intended for dress up occasions4 ,lace should never be shirred because1 as ,i have already told you1 the stout woman can never afford to be frivolous in her dress1 and ruffled lace would certainly make her so4 ,plaited panels are good1 but these should always be held close to the dress by the use of a ,french tuck from two to three inches long4 ,the groups of vertical lines are always an effective means of increasing height while the long tab will help to keep the panel from flying out as one walks4 ,ribbon banding is effective both when stretched flat and when used to form sash ends or ties4 ,such finishes must be generous in length1 otherwise they will add to1 rather than detract from width4 ,illustration3 ,if foundation linings are used1 plan them as carefully as the dress itself4 ,they must be easy yet fitted to perfection4 ,they must also be designed especially for the dress so that they will support but not hinder the outer line at any point4 ,,helpful ,,hints ,,from ,a ,,leading ,,new ,,york ,,designer ,a designer in one of the big ,new ,york houses when asked as to her success in designing becoming dresses for large women gave these few valuable rules3 8,i never use sheer flimsy material4 ,if ,i must use lace1 ,i weight it so that it is as heavy as any fabric4 8,i never use coarse stiff material--the softer and weightier the better4 8,i rarely use fabrics with luster or with big design4 8,i never use pure colors4 ,i use shades chiefly1 very seldom a tint1 unless it is a cream tint4 ,i avoid all white for my large customers4 ,we see enough big men dressed up in white to know how much it increases size4 8,i always make a foundation slip1 smooth1 sleek and close fitting4 ,in this ,i sew the sleeves4 ,my dress is made separate and hangs easier and straighter than it possibly could if it had the sleeves to hamper it4 ,then1 too1 the dress lasts longer1 which is a distinct advantage4 8,i give special attention to my customer's hats1 shoes and corsets4 ,all must be right for her or my dress cannot be a success4 8,often if ,i find a model that is definitely becoming1 ,i vary it in different materials and colors1 often making madam a half dozen beautiful gowns from the one block4 ,why not1 if it is most becoming to her80 ,,chapter ,,vi ,,essential ,,points ,,in ,,cutting ,,and ,,fitting ,there are many skilful tricks in dressmaking that are advantageous to the overweight figure4 ,for instance1 the shoulder dart allows ease over the bust1 makes a more comfortable shoulder1 and permits of a close fitting sleeve4 ,it also prevents sagging of the dress at the underarm1 giving a neat good fitting effect4 ,don't avoid or 8detest0 darts2 learn to use them so that you get the greatest possible advantage from them4 ,watch an adept dressmaker smooth the material around and slip out the dart in a line over the bust that fits smoothly and easily4 ,only carelessly fitted and stitched darts are unattractive4 ,,the ,,helpfulness ,,of ,,darts ,,in ,,certain ,,places ,the crosswise armhole dart1 too1 has its advantages but is not good for a broad shouldered or short figure as it widens the shoulder and cuts the height1 unless it is wisely made on a bias grain to slant down so that a crosswise line is avoided4 ,illustration3 ,darts are necessary for round figures1 especially the underarm dart as shown at the right center above4 ,they are often advantageous for flat figures1 as at the left4 ,they can1 when wisely used1 add much to the attractiveness of a garment4 ,don't use them1 however1 unless for a specific purpose and slant them so that they give length rather than breadth4 ,diagonal or bias lines such as shown at the right often are employed for smart effect4 ,they can slenderize1 are distinctive and youthful1 especially if subdued stripes or twilled fabric is used4 ,rounding shoulders often need a few gathers at the neck line in the back1 as shown in the lower figure4 ,such gathers eased in insure a better fitting1 more comfortable collar line4 ,the underarm dart is often used with a shoulder dart1 especially for very full busts4 ,this helps to shape the material over the bust easily and to give a smooth1 straight underarm seam4 ,sometimes a dart is used on the back seam as well as the front in cases where the back is fat and round4 ,in any event1 fit your dress so that the underarm seam does not drag1 and so that the crosswise grain of the material is parallel with the belt line4 ,the hip dart helps to fit the skirt by providing a means of lifting the fabric at the sides4 ,if the hips are straight and not curving to any extent1 only a slight dart1 if any1 is necessary4 ,but for large figures a hip dart is desirable1 especially for one-piece dresses4 ,it should be brought up so that the skirt hangs evenly all the way at the bottom4 ,arrange the dart so that it comes directly over the hip or under the narrow belt or waistline trimming4 ,remember that the larger the hip1 the longer the dart1 and the greater the necessity for accurate fitting4 ,illustration3 ,plaits rightly employed can give length and are often quite necessary in ,fashion's catalog4 ,but make them a part of the dress1 surround them1 make them give length where length is needed4 ,for instance1 in ,a you find three forms of decoration1 each with a purpose4 ,the plaits for length1 the embroidery for interest1 the tie for color4 ,in ,b plaits for length1 buttons for finish1 necklace for interest4 ,in ,c the tucks must suffice for length1 trimming and interest4 ,often embroidery is desired and it can serve to give length if rightly used4 ,for instance ,d1 a simple dress1 is made pleasing with embroidery that helps rather than hinders4 ,draped skirts1 as in ,e1 need not be taboo entirely1 if the draping is used for line emphasis and is soft enough to cling rather than extend4 ,large figures often find a dress broken in line advantageous1 as in ,f4 ,if the bust is large and hips small1 the skirt should be favored with the trimming4 ,the upper waist line should be omitted if the figure is in the least short4 ,,how ,,to ,,hold ,,the ,,dress ,,up ,,on ,,the ,,shoulders ,if the back is fat and rounding and the neck fairly small1 it is advisable1 in order to hold the dress well up on the shoulders1 to run a gathering thread across the back neck line4 ,the fullness thus retained may be eased in and shrunken out1 if wool is used1 so that no gathers are visible but a comfortable neck is secured4 ,such fullness is not at all objectionable in silk or cotton fabrics4 ,,what ,,the ,,long ,,underarm ,,does ,in our quest for becoming clothes1 we are fascinated by the long underarm line and feel sure that if we could evidence such a constructive detail1 we could look #bj pounds lighter right away4 ,to achieve this1 consider again what ,i have said about the corset1 its size and fit4 ,be sure that your corset has enough supporters to hold it securely down4 ,a corset that 8rides up0 or a brassiere that is too short will definitely prevent a long1 easy underarm4 ,be sure when your dresses are fitted that the crosswise grain of the cloth is parallel with the waist line4 ,be sure that your waistline trim or belt is placed as low as your dress length will allow--not low enough to make you look top heavy1 but low enough for your own height1 size and type4 ,to find what this is1 parade up and down in front of your mirror with belts1 bands1 and sashes strung around your waist1 one at a time1 of course1 until you know which one is placed best for you4 ,don't be faddish1 don't be extreme1 but be modish4 ,there is a difference4 ,work for becomingness so that the line you finally decide upon will surely be right4 ,,the ,,bias ,,center ,,front ,cutting the center front on the bias may give a 8silent0 or a pronounced line1 depending on whether plain or striped material is used4 ,it takes a third more material to cut a dress on the bias1 but since it is possible to develop a very smart dress this way it is often worth considering4 ,it should be worn only by the type that can wear extreme things well1 however1 because a dress cut on the bias is in no wise conservative4 ,illustration3 ,when styles call for plaits1 plaits may be used1 but not in widening flares as shown above1 rather in slenderizing length lines as shown on the opposite page4 ,illustration3 ,hats and shoes in these two pictures also illustrate incorrect and correct choice4 ,the wide hat and prominent straps opposite emphasize width and weight2 the neat hat and cross-strap slippers above help to slenderize4 ,,how ,,to ,,add ,,fullness ,,without ,,flare ,to allow fullness in walking1 two plaits may be placed in the skirt at the left side seam1 one directly over the other1 the right side of the skirt being finished plain4 ,this does not interfere with the slim line effect1 yet gives the desired freedom4 ,plaitings or panels of self color that are #e inches or less in width soften the line of a dress and1 if effectively used1 can improve the garment both in line and attractiveness1 especially for the figure that is large above the waist4 ,an effective use of skirt plaiting can aid greatly in balancing the proportion4 ,if the waist measure is large1 keep the skirt as straight and narrow as fashion will allow1 and watch your sleeves to fit them close and plain4 ,short1 full sleeves and a full skirt must have a small1 short waist line to be effective2 they are totally 8out of the picture0 where the waist and hips are large4 ,plaits aid in line and are youthful1 but if fashion decrees straight skirts we must stitch or press them down straight and slim1 for flared-out plaits are treacherous for us who would be slender4 ,for the same reason1 we must avoid panels that flirt out as we walk4 ,a corded girdle1 sash1 or string sash that is long and limp is becoming4 ,tunics1 if not too full1 and if not definitely trimmed at the bottom edge1 are advantageous4 ,they slenderize by making it possible to draw the skirt in at the bottom1 thus giving an appearance of height4 ,this1 of course1 is lost if the tunic or the lower skirt is too full4 ,large figures should always have tunics and foundations of the same color and material so as not to break the height4 ,,chapter ,,vii ,,fabrics ,,that ,,slenderize ,first of all1 buy your clothes with deliberation so that they will look as though they belonged to you1 not as though they were bought in a hurry4 ,deliberate buying is the economical way4 ,emergency buying in clothes is like food from the delicatessen--it's a 8make shift0 and an expensive one4 ,buy for suitability1 for smartness1 and think of all the uses you can make of a garment before you buy4 ,if it's a dress1 what wrap or hat will you wear with it8 ,does it mean new shoes1 new hat1 and gloves8 ,if so1 then consider the advisability of purchasing another style which would look well with the accessories you have and are wearing with another costume4 ,buy few clothes if you must1 but buy the best quality fabrics your purse will allow4 ,and buy carefully4 ,being well-dressed is not so much a matter of money as it is information1 for the well-dressed woman gives evidence of discriminate deliberation1 of knowledge applied to selection1 and of a wise choice of accessories as well as essentials4 ,so take heed and take your time about every purchase so that everything harmonizes perfectly with what you have and so that every article1 from shoes to hat1 has its part in aiding slenderness rather than in emphasizing stoutness4 ,,facts ,,to ,,know ,,about ,,materials ,acquaint yourself with materials1 their wearing qualities1 their clinging proclivities1 and their color quality4 ,by this latter1 ,i mean their ability to 8take the dye0 and be soft and rich in their shades1 because certain shades we must wear1 and we don't want to have them dull and lifeless1 like brownish black or grayish drab4 ,we want them to be deep and soft like those of beautiful old fabrics that have been ripened to an inimitable softness by age4 ,the most becoming colors for us come in good fabrics1 so for the average woman there must be economy in the number of dresses rather than in their quality4 ,a garment made in good style and of good material is more of a credit to you when half worn out than a cheap new garment could possibly be4 ,it is necessary to remember1 too1 that materials with a glossy1 brilliant surface or finish1 no matter what the color of the fabric may be1 are difficult to wear and are not generally becoming1 because the sheen and1 in some instances1 the stiffness tend to make the figure appear larger4 ,materials of soft finish or dull colors1 on the other hand1 will make the figure appear smaller and will attract less attention4 ,every fat woman loves pastry and taffeta4 ,we know that before we start4 ,pastry you can eat if you study hard to dress correctly1 but taffeta you cannot wear because it sticks out where it shouldn't and does not cling as it should4 ,the surest way to have you avoid it is for me to tell you that it adds #bj pounds1 and it truly does4 ,the luster of satin eliminates it from our list while the conspicuousness of large-figured fabrics makes them equally inappropriate4 ,when you see lengths of large figured fabrics in the shops1 you may be tempted1 but do not buy4 ,they will thwart your whole purpose of putting into the clothes you wear the lines that make for slenderness and grace4 ,illustration3 ,these two pictures illustrate improper and proper choice of fabrics for a stout figure4 ,above1 the large-figured material adds size1 the fur trim shortens1 the round beads shorten the neck4 ,all conspire to emphasize weight4 ,illustration3 ,here a small all-over pattern minimizes size1 the plaits and tassels lengthen1 the necklace adds a slenderizing touch4 ,the appearance as a whole is graceful and youthful4 ,,why ,,average 8,,bargains0 ,,are ,,not ,,an ,,economy ,,for ,,you ,shun bargains of miscellaneous materials4 ,unless you are offered a type of material that will slenderize1 don't buy it4 ,and never stint your dresses by using remnants4 ,your dresses should never have an extra inch visible but likewise they should never in the least appear as though they were stinted in cutting4 ,and that means that you must always have plenty of hems and facings and bias sleeves or bands if you want them4 ,stingy1 scrimpy hems on big folks' skirts are a 8give away40 ,always buy enough material for at least a #c-;inch hem1 and more if fashion allows4 ,it is pitiable to see a big man humiliated and equally so to see a large woman in cheap flimsy fabric4 ,save up your pennies and look out for remnants if you must1 but don't buy cheap materials4 ,the better materials1 too1 are an incentive for more careful planning1 and as a result you have a more likeable1 wearable dress4 ,,choose ,,these ,,slenderizing ,,fabrics ,what can you wear to create the illusion of slenderness8 ,in woolens1 everything except firm hard finished weaves1 or those in big or definite designs or colors4 ,if silk is to be purchased1 consider the closely woven heavy ones4 ,they may cost a little more1 yes1 but they wear longer1 and when you give thought and time to making a perfect dress you are happy to have it last as long as it will4 ,some big women delight in chiffon and ,georgette and lace dresses1 but these fabrics must not be used unless a substantial foundation dress is worn under them4 ,no one needs to use so much care about the foundation of her dress as a stout woman4 ,it must be wholly non-transparent4 ,it must fit perfectly1 and any dress of lace or sheer material fitted over it must follow the slip silhouette easily but perfectly4 ,some designers use two and three thicknesses as though they were one4 ,they say this softens the line1 weights the fabric1 and proves altogether advantageous where grace and line are desired4 ,materials like faille or bengaline1 with a definite crosswise grain1 are smart and becoming and are best when cut and made crosswise4 ,they hang more limply and1 therefore1 are more graceful and entirely desirable for slenderizing4 ,often the mistake is made of choosing a material with wide stripes1 due to the prevalent belief that stripes tend to make a person look slender4 ,this is generally untrue4 ,the stout woman can wear striped material1 but the stripes1 as a rule1 must be fine and without definite color or line when viewed from a short distance4 ,in other words1 stripes should be felt1 not seen1 except at very close range4 ,stout women1 and1 in fact1 most women look better in materials of plain or indistinct design in harmonizing colors than in those of bold design and of decided color combinations4 ,the heavy silks1 striped by means of the weave1 and in self color1 are the best for tailored dresses4 ,the heavy crpe weaves are more appropriate for draped dresses planned for occasional wear4 ,and the best quality means the best wear1 appearance and general satisfaction4 ,it is better to have one very good1 smart dress and take care of it than two cheap dresses that you are never quite satisfied with4 ,in selecting material for skirts1 stout women should choose either plain fabric or fabric with a narrow or indistinct stripe or small figure and of a texture that is as soft and pliable as ,dame ,fashion permits4 ,for summer wear1 good quality voiles are better than linens1 and the crpe de ,chines are better than the tub silks1 because they cling1 and that1 after all is a vital consideration4 ,swiss1 organdie1 and ratin1 like taffeta1 are too stiff or bulgy to give slenderness1 so these fabrics must be admired always from a safe distance4 ,allover lace is permissible if of small design and heavy enough to hang rather than bulge4 ,for quick and easy reference ,i have made a complete list of fabrics that are certain to create a line of slenderness--materials that you can safely wear with the assurance that if properly used they will do much toward giving you the slender1 fashionable lines for which you are striving4 ,when all is said and done there is really quite a varied range of fabrics for you after all4 ,,materials ,,you ,,can ,,wear ,wool for ,dresses ,charmeen 7if not too lustrous7 ,challis ,covert ,cloth ,flannel ,poiret ,twill ,poplin ,serge ,wool crpe ,wool velour 7light weight7 ,wool for ,coats ,bolivia ,morvilla ,wool ,velour 7heavy7 ,also fabrics listed for dresses which are suitable for light weight wraps ,silks ,bengaline1 ,poplin or ,faille ,canton crpe ,canton satin 7dull side7 ,crpe de ,chine 7heavy7 ,crpe ,romaine ,crpe ,roshanara 7plain and self-striped7 ,faille ,georgette 7heavy7 ,wash ,goods ,batiste ,crpe ,gingham 7soft quality7 ,poplin ,voile ,handkerchief and plain non-crushable linen1 provided the latter is not stiff ,,how ,,to ,,look ,,smart ,,at ,,all ,,times ,never hesitate about navy blue in fine wool or heavy silk4 ,when beautifully made1 either of these may be irresistibly youthful1 and if care is used in selecting rightly balanced designs1 such dresses can be so interestingly varied as never to be monotonous4 ,for instance1 a change of collars is allowable4 ,one day smart turn cuffs may be worn1 and the next day omitted1 all giving variety without deviating from the path of good taste and slender emphasis4 ,and navy blue is always smart1 no matter what the prevailing fashion may be4 ,watch for values4 ,know the kind of wool you want2 avoid stiff satins and taffetas4 ,remember when buying or planning dresses that wools that fuzz up and satins that have a stiffness back of their shininess1 taffetas that stick out1 and voiles and ,georgettes that are over-sheer are to be avoided4 ,fortunately1 the better grades of these fabrics eliminate these tendencies by the very quality of the fabric1 and to say that shiny satin is not possible for the large woman is unnecessary1 although there are some qualities of satins soft enough to be wearable1 provided the sheen is not too decided4 ,but the heavy crpes are always more desirable because of their weight and lack of luster4 ,,if ,,you ,,must ,,practice ,,economy ,if ,i could have but one dress1 ,i should choose soft1 brown ,canton crpe with a satin side to use as trimming4 ,if ,i could have just two dresses1 one would be blue cloth and the other brown crpe because both are becoming4 ,i say they are becoming despite the fact that a prominent color specialist says that black1 blue1 and brown are heavy colors and not the best for large figures4 ,but the use of such a simple accessory as a scarf of lace or chiffon can lift out of the ordinary a brown crpe dress and can in the quality of its beautiful1 smart lines1 prove doubly effective4 ,and fine white linen or piqu collars and cuffs can do wonders to a simple1 correct-fitting one-piece dress of blue cloth4 ,i know of a certain manufacturer of a very excellent line of dresses for stouts4 ,expensive8 ,certainly1 but worth the price1 for following the rules of optical illusion is practically a religion with him4 ,he uses only navy blue--the darkest navy--in heavy faille1 crpe silks1 ,poiret twill1 and charmeen4 ,some are trimmed in white linen or piqu1 a few with net1 but the majority are untrimmed1 tailored1 and pressed 8to a turn10 even when made of silk4 ,dresses of this type are of a quality which will permit of one remodeling at least1 so that the maximum of wear may be had from them4 ,when this is possible the material can be really 8worn out0 because it was conservative in the first place and did not lose its style value too rapidly4 ,the feeling of satisfaction you get from such a costume1 even when you discard the outfit1 is much to be preferred to an attempt to wring the last drop of usefulness from your clothes by wearing them in the home4 ,never do this4 ,rip up1 renovate1 and make over1 but don't be shabby at home4 ,there is too much to lose if you do4 ,the stout woman just must get into the habit of looking smart at all times4 ,once acquired1 it is a habit that brings with it a sense of pride1 pleasure1 and self-reliance very much worth cultivating4 ,,chapter ,,viii ,,colors ,,that ,,slenderize ,in ,chapter ,,ii we found that certain uses of lines cause objects to appear larger or smaller than they really are4 ,this same principle of optical illusion applies to colors4 ,whether you realize it or not1 the color of an object always seems to affect its size4 ,in general1 dark colors make objects appear to be smaller2 light colors make them seem larger4 ,this is often demonstrated by a woman with large feet4 ,if she dresses those feet in a pair of white shoes they appear to be much larger than they really are1 whereas shod in a pair of well-made dull black or dark brown pumps or oxfords1 they appear much smaller than they really are4 ,take equal amounts of black crpe and yellow satin as examples4 ,the black recedes1 while the yellow stands out1 fills the eye more completely1 and as a result seems larger4 ,look at blue cornflowers and orange poppies in a field4 ,it takes twice as many of the blue flowers to attract your attention as it does of the orange1 because the latter make a more definite impression on the eye4 ,if you intend to take your rightful place among well-dressed women you must watch carefully the color of your dress and hold1 in the main1 to the quiet colors or shades1 such as seal brown1 midnight blue1 bottle green1 dull black1 blackberry purple1 the grays1 and the deep tans4 ,these make outline less definite1 help your observers to lose sight of bulk and thereby make your size inconspicuous4 ,besides1 they are always smarter than the more conspicuous colors4 ,and this isn't such a sacrifice1 after all1 when you realize how few women there are who are vivacious1 alert1 agile enough or clear enough of skin to compete with active color4 ,bright colors are suitable chiefly to the great outdoors1 for gala decoration1 or for trimming--and the latter you may use if you do it wisely and discreetly4 ,,what ,,colors ,,not ,,to ,,wear ,king's blue and scarlet1 and any colors of their quality1 must be 8off your list0 completely1 for they definitely create the illusion of huge bulk4 ,refuse acquaintance with them right now and whatever you do1 don't yield to their entreaties4 ,you have heard1 no doubt1 the famous story about the lecturer1 who1 when asked by a big woman dressed in red what color she should wear1 said1 8,gray1 ,madam1 gray4 ,nature makes humming birds red and elephants gray4 ,follow ,nature1 ,madam40 ,don't force people to see you bigger than you are by wearing gaudy designs or colors4 ,brilliant1 hard1 cold colors1 or what might be fittingly termed unrelenting or non-retiring colors should be avoided once a woman is past her first youth2 in fact1 not every young woman or young girl can afford to wear such tones1 especially when she is a bit too stout1 for the purer the color the more definite it is to the eye and1 therefore1 the larger it makes the wearer seem4 ,many of the colors that are launched forth each season as the latest thing are so strong that they add a third to one's size and rob the wearer of all the natural color of skin1 hair1 and eyes1 making even a young1 vigorous girl appear devoid of animation and charm4 ,the use of such colors even as trimming is a mistake commonly made by women lacking in the fresh1 natural color of skin1 hair1 and eyes4 ,,study ,,color 8,,families0 ,it is well to consider that gray eyes reflect blue or green1 and sometimes brown tints1 and that the right shade of blue--usually old blue--will emphasize the color and brilliancy of blue eyes4 ,it is said that a girl with hazel eyes and chestnut hair can wear any color becomingly4 ,yet one must realize that some colors would naturally be much more emphatic or subduing than others2 therefore1 more becoming or less complimentary4 ,the best rule is to keep to one family of color shades1 as brown1 blue1 gray1 or black4 ,you will find this scheme more becoming and more economical4 ,of course1 if you wish1 you may choose to use one or two shades lighter of the same color shade1 as dark brown and tan1 or perhaps the pleasing combination of midnight blue and gray4 ,gray or tan is good with black2 white with black only in the very smallest quantity and then discreetly placed4 ,but gray1 used for an entire costume1 is good only for the very young or the old4 ,once the hair is white1 gray is much better than black for it will not emphasize face lines2 but a woman of forty1 big or little1 unless she has white hair and clear skin should choose navy blue or black in preference to gray4 ,however1 we need not wear either monotonously4 ,many designers insist that 8color tone0 evidenced somewhere is essential for every well-dressed woman1 maintaining that if the individual does not have it herself it must be provided by means of her dress or complexion1 assuming1 of course1 that it will always be discreetly and smartly done4 ,if the hair or eyes are colorless1 avoid brown and wear blue1 and use definite color--a bit of braid1 an ornamental buckle1 a strap on a purse1 a hat trimming--something that has a smart color note4 ,we look smallest in dull black1 but we can look almost as slender in black that has brightness either in the fabric or the dye1 and at the same time not look so old as with the dull black4 ,for example1 observe the next dear elderly lady you see in dull black4 ,see how it makes every wrinkle show and gives her a shriveled1 meek appearance that is in every way depressing4 ,we must look young1 as well as slender1 and1 of course1 fashionable too1 so we must keep away from any colors that will hamper us4 ,,choose ,,these ,,subtle ,,shades ,it has always seemed to me that we women who have the opportunity of making either a pleasing1 indifferent1 or offending picture of ourselves in our dress should realize our opportunity1 sense fully that we are in competition with real artists and work to achieve a degree of perfection that at least would be pleasing to our very own selves and that could not offend any who might see us4 ,those valuable laws of optical illusion teach us always to select colors that have a tendency to recede1 that is1 those that are indefinite and difficult to classify4 ,for instance1 the moment rose is added to gray1 or yellow to tan1 it takes on light and tends to intensify size rather than to reduce it1 while we can add white to gray1 or brown to tan with the opposite result4 ,so often we see someone who has achieved a beautiful color plan1 change it to satisfy her own desire for variety and in the changing lose all that she has worked to gain4 ,and so ,i insist that once you find the color or combination of colors that is becoming1 that is flattering1 as to size and complexion1 hair and eyes1 hold to it as a valued possession and have your color variety in other things rather than your dress4 ,i have not yet considered white1 or rather cream1 or old blue1 or pastel green in discussing shades4 ,these many of us can wear4 ,the wearing of white is a luxurious habit once acquired4 ,the charm of immaculateness may balance in some minds its tendency to increase size1 but if you wish to look as small as possible1 avoid it4 ,of old blue this is not true4 ,it can be worn by old and young1 is becoming generally1 and is almost as effective as gray in its size reducing propensities4 ,it blends well and is soft enough not to be distinguished at long range1 always a point of consideration when we are working to look slender4 ,however1 neither gray nor old blue must be worn if the skin is definitely sallow4 ,pastel green that has a gray1 rather than a yellow cast is often becoming1 especially for summer wear1 for in addition to its advantages regarding size1 it is cool looking4 ,a ,,color ,,guide ,,to ,,aid ,,you ,,in ,,attaining ,a ,,slenderizing ,,appearance ,type of ,woman ,black ,brown ,blue ,green ,pink ,blonde ,fair hair2 ,very good in ,bronze and warm,excellent4 ,gray-green blue1 gray1 dull surfaced tans1 very ,greenish and good2 also or brown fabrics4 good4 ,dark navy blue soft eyes2 white tones very good2 blue-green skin1 permissible4 also medium both medium moderate tones to and dark4 color4 repeat color of blue eyes4 ,pale ,blonde ,fair hair2 ,may be worn ,dark red-brown ,excellent in ,very pale green blue1 gray1 with white or permissible4 dark shades good4 or brown cream collar4 and old blue4 eyes2 white skin with little or no color4 ,titian ,blonde ,fair hair1 ,excellent4 ,dark tones and ,dark tones ,almond and bordering on bronze good excellent2 or reseda good2 red2 blue1 if eyes are medium blue avoid bright brown1 or brown4 if eyes are tones4 gray eyes2 blue4 fair skin1 moderate color4 ,medium ,blonde ,light brown ,best relieved ,bronze and ,very good in ,dark green and hair2 blue1 by cream medium tan dark and reseda good4 brown1 or color4 good4 medium tones4 gray eyes2 medium complexion4 ,olive ,blonde ,light brown ,good1 if used ,very dark tones,dark tones ,bottle-green hair2 brown1 with may be worn4 excellent4 good4 blue1 or gray contrasting eyes2 skin color4 inclined to sallowness4 ,clear ,brunette ,dark or medium ,excellent1 ,very good for ,dark tones good,dark green brown hair2 especially brown-eyed with bright good4 dark blue1 with white4 type2 tan trimming4 ,blue-green gray1 or good4 ,medium blue for blue-eyed brown eyes2 fair4 type2 fair1 clear bronze-green skin1 with for brown some color4 eyes4 ,pale ,brunette ,medium1 dark ,do not use ,excellent with ,dark tones very,dark green brown or except with brown eyes2 good2 excellent4 black hair2 bright color warm tan green-blues ,blue-green brown1 gray1 for trimming4 good4 good4 for blue eyes or dark blue and eyes2 pale bronze-green skin4 for brown eyes4 ,colorful ,brunette ,medium brown or,very good4 ,most browns ,dark blue ,very good in dark hair2 excellent for excellent2 dark tones4 blue1 brown1 brown-eyed green-blue ,bronze-green or gray eyes2 type4 good4 excellent medium skin1 with brown high color4 eyes4 ,auburn ,brunette ,brown hair1 ,transparent ,all pure browns,navy blue and ,bronze-green tinged with black good4 that blend green-blues excellent2 red2 brown1 with hair and very good4 also1 medium blue or gray eyes good4 reseda4 eyes2 medium skin4 ,olive ,brunette ,dark brown or ,permissible if ,mahogany and ,good in darkest,bronze-green black hair2 worn with deepest tones4 permissible4 brown or cream collar4 browns black eyes2 moderately olive skin1 good4 some color4 ,gray and ,gray ,gray hair2 ,permissible if ,good in dark ,permissible in brown1 gray1 worn with and medium darkest or blue eyes2 cream collar4 tones4 ,delft tones4 medium skin4 blue good for blue eyes4 ,brown and ,gray ,grayish1 brown ,permissible ,seal and ,dull blue1 very,dark tones hair2 brown1 with cream chestnut good2 moderately blue1 or gray collar4 good4 ,avoid brighter good4 ,avoid eyes2 medium all tans4 blues good gray-green4 skin4 for trimming4 ,type of ,woman ,gray ,purple ,pink ,pink ,blonde ,fair hair2 ,dark1 blue-gray,orchid fair2 ,flesh and dull blue1 gray1 very good4 also1 old rose or brown blue-violet permissible4 eyes2 white in sheer soft skin1 fabrics4 ,red moderate purple may be color4 used in small quantities4 ,pale ,blonde ,fair hair2 ,dark1 blue-gray,orchid good2 ,flesh1 good2 blue1 gray1 good4 fuchsia1 good also dull old or brown for trimming4 rose4 eyes2 white skin with little or no color4 ,titian ,blonde ,fair hair1 ,stone-gray and ,very dull ,pastel tones in bordering on taupe good4 orchid good4 sheer red2 blue1 ,blue-gray material1 brown1 or good4 good4 gray eyes2 fair skin1 moderate color4 ,medium ,blonde ,light brown ,silver-gray ,moderately good,flesh and peach hair2 blue1 permissible4 for trimming may be worn4 brown1 or if skin is gray eyes2 clear4 medium complexion4 ,olive ,blonde ,light brown ,very dark taupe,pinkish tones ,creamy flesh hair2 brown1 good4 in sheer and peach blue1 or gray material color fair4 eyes2 skin permissible4 inclined to sallowness4 ,clear ,brunette ,dark or medium ,permissible for,orchid good2 ,rose brown hair2 a dress that fuchsia may permissible dark blue1 is smartly be used in as trimming4 gray1 or designed and small brown eyes2 trimmed4 quantities4 fair1 clear skin1 with some color4 ,pale ,brunette ,medium1 dark ,warm taupe ,dull orchid2 ,flesh1 dull brown or permissible4 also1 pink rose and black hair2 tones of peach good4 brown1 gray1 violet4 or dark blue eyes2 pale skin4 ,colorful ,brunette ,medium brown or,blue-gray and ,avoid all dark hair2 taupe good4 except bluish blue1 brown1 hues4 or gray eyes2 medium skin1 high color4 ,auburn ,brunette ,brown hair1 ,good1 if skin ,plum color and ,flesh and pale tinged with is clear4 palest pink good4 red2 brown1 lavender blue or gray permissible4 eyes2 medium skin4 ,olive ,brunette ,dark brown or ,taupe may be ,pink lavender ,dull pink and black hair2 worn in rare in sheer apricot tones brown or cases4 fabric or good4 black eyes2 dahlia in olive skin1 small some color4 quantities fair4 ,gray and ,gray ,gray hair2 ,silver-gray ,soft ,flesh and old brown1 gray1 good4 pink-lavender rose very or blue eyes2 good2 also good4 medium skin4 dark tones4 ,brown and ,gray ,grayish1 brown ,dark grays ,avoid unless ,creamy-flesh hair2 brown1 brightened by skin is very good4 ,avoid blue1 or gray trimming1 clear and rose hues4 eyes2 medium permissible4 hair almost skin4 white4 ,all rules may be individually varied and should be for distinctive effects1 so to know the rule of color is to respect it and adeptly apply it to express yourself beautifully and harmoniously4 ,play with colors as you would with a fan4 ,remember that usually every woman can look better than she does4 ,it is the age of good-looking women and the right shade or tone of color has a very great deal to do with the right emphasis of individual attractiveness4 ,color has so much to do with the final appearance of any costume1 that you must find your particular color pace4 ,remember that if you are stout you cannot stray from the less colorful byways to the brilliant main road trodden by your slim sisters4 ,never lose sight of the fact that true artistry may be expressed in the subtle shades to a much greater degree than by the use of brilliant colors4 ,as civilization advances1 it is gradually drawing away from pure color4 ,you will find that practically all of the fabrics shown in the shops are variations of the foundation or primary colors4 ,why not carry this to its farthest point1 emphasizing your appreciation of the subtlety of the 8between0 shades which can do so much toward making you look smart and slender8 ,in the selection of shades for becomingness1 your size is the first consideration2 your skin the second4 ,consider carefully both the color and the texture of your skin1 and work to have the shades of your dresses enhance1 harmonize1 or subdue1 according to the need or opportunity4 ,the color of your hair and eyes comes third in color consideration1 while your age comes fourth4 ,in making use of the table ,i have given you1 locate your type in the first column4 ,if you are a blonde read descriptions of all the blonde types and decide to which you belong4 ,if you are a brunette1 classify yourself under this heading4 ,do not feel hampered by the colors allowable for your particular type1 because it very often happens that a variation of a shade you like will make it becoming to you even though it would be unsuited to another individual whose description would correspond with yours4 ,,rules ,,to ,,remember ,large figures require subdued colors4 ,the dominant color in your costume must harmonize with the color and the texture of your skin4 ,a contrasting or emphasizing color may be used to enhance the coloring of your eyes and hair4 ,because it is not entirely necessary or desirable to exclude the lighter1 brighter shades from the wardrobe1 a few of these have been listed in the accompanying table4 ,as a general thing1 you will look best in dark colors2 but in the warm weather1 and for home wear1 light colors are permissible and suitable1 too4 ,if the type requires the use of such shades in the evening1 gowns made from them may be worn becomingly1 provided they are properly chosen as to material1 design1 and trimming4 ,with the advent of each season's new colors1 search carefully for your colors1 the ones that you know are becoming1 bearing in mind all the while that tones1 hues1 or tints 7light colors7 emphasize1 and that shades 7dark colors7 alone subdue1 and then remember that both fabric and design definitely affect the color2 so decide on all three simultaneously and thereby be wholly safe4 ,the extent of your attractiveness rests with you and don't forget ever how very much a right color can help you4 ,haunt the shops for the beautiful1 the flattering1 the becoming thing4 ,don't be satisfied to buy green1 blue1 or gray simply because it's the season's color--find the tone or shade of that color that is lovely for you--then you can be fashionably dressed and becomingly so4 ,,chapter ,,ix ,,the ,,line ,,of ,,youth ,,and ,,grace ,there is a distinct difference between the appropriate clothes for the young stout girl and those for the elderly stout woman4 ,the first must work to emphasize trim smartness2 the second simplicity and becomingness4 ,not so much difference in the two1 you will say1 but think carefully about it and you will realize that there is a difference4 ,the whole idea of dress is different at #bj1 let us say1 than it is at #ej4 ,if you are #bj1 you may wear #bj-year clothes1 but if you are #ej1 you may wear #dj-year clothes4 ,and you can truly look #dj if you learn to blend the lines suited to youth and maturity and to do it skilfully4 ,,when ,,tailored ,,clothes ,,are ,,smart ,work to achieve one of two types--tailored smartness or supple dignity4 ,neither need emphasize age and both can reduce the appearance of size4 ,if you are best as a tailored girl1 be one morning and evening4 ,remember that the soft wools1 charmeen and poiret1 are best1 and often smart in stripe effect4 ,one-piece wool frocks are a boon to slenderness and every season brings smart1 simple straight lines especially adaptable to soft1 clinging materials4 ,watch the length of your suit coat if you are young4 ,long ,eton effects are often good1 and don't forget the beauty and long line possibilities in the very long suit coat4 ,tend a little to the vampish black in the evenings1 if you wish1 but tailor the lines so that they are severely smart4 ,of course1 if you are #ah you may not want to use black and look vampish1 but you can1 as far as size goes1 wear cream1 sky or old blue1 or watery green effectively4 ,in fact1 any of these colors are wearable if you choose supple fabrics and wear them unadorned4 ,if you choose boat necks1 be sure to wear a scarf or necklace to break the line4 ,but here we are going to talk about the girl who is young1 good-looking1 and stout4 ,you needn't say that you are not good-looking4 ,it's your own fault if you aren't1 that's certain4 ,read the women's magazines4 ,every month they carry excellent articles on the care of the face1 hands1 hair and body1 and if you are delightfully clean and follow even the simplest rules1 you can be good to look at even if you weigh more than you would like to4 ,illustration3 ,straight lines can be artistically used in lingerie or negligee1 and such garments need not be monotonous or unattractive4 ,beautiful simplicity or distinctive smartness should be your aim with such garments4 ,at the left is a night dress with pleasing length lines4 ,ribbon trimmings or contrasting bands are desirable in finishing dressing gowns1 such as shown in the center above1 especially if the color harmonizes with the predominating color of the fabric4 ,soft crpe1 as at the right1 in subdued color1 is becoming and inexpensive4 ,effective length line trimmings can be added by decorative stitches or bindings4 ,fortunately1 the flesh on a young stout girl is usually evenly distributed1 thus making the chief consideration in dress one of choosing line and fabric that are becoming to youth4 ,it is very easy for a young stout to be well corseted and that is an important essential1 for correct corseting will go a long way toward avoiding additional fat4 ,,youthful ,,styles ,,you ,,can ,,wear ,if you are young1 don't be indifferent about any phase of your dress1 and don't ever show any humiliation because of it4 ,women who are continually conscious of their size seem to look fatter than those who plan to make the least of it and to enjoy it4 ,emerson says1 8,never go to a man to tell him that you can't pay a debt when you haven't any money4 ,your whole attitude will cause him to lose confidence in you40 ,so it is with stout women4 ,if you yourself tell about it1 pity yourself1 evidence it by word as well as by your appearance1 then you deserve to be classed as 8that fat ,brown girl0 instead of 8the good-looking ,brown girl40 ,if you prefer short dresses1 and short skirts are the vogue1 be extremely careful about your feet4 ,have them perfectly shod4 ,wear hose of a neutral or dress-matching shade so that the height will not be broken4 ,severe lines for modish1 clear-skinned girls with neat coiffures are often very effective and they have the additional advantage of youthfulness which older women must strive for4 ,try to learn about your dress from study and observation rather than from experience4 ,the latter is discouraging and expensive4 ,visit shops that specialize in tailored things4 ,study fashion pictures for line1 not color or trimming1 for you know you can vary these to suit your special slenderizing emphasis4 ,ice cream1 like candy1 is tempting to young folks1 as are bright colors and new fads4 ,so eat sparingly1 but of the best1 choose the choicest of the fads1 the smartest of the new colors4 ,invariably they will be in good taste and created of a color and material or design that you can with discretion adopt4 ,illustration3 ,youthfulness is entirely possible with slenderizing lines4 ,these illustrations1 for instance1 are simple to the extreme1 yet allow of individuality and becomingness4 ,the plaited frill held in place by a definite length band is allowable4 ,the ,tuxedo panels of the black dress are designed as part of the collar1 in scarf effect1 thus giving a youthful line rather than a heavy1 collar trim and one that can be worn by all but full bust figures4 ,,youthful ,,styles ,,to ,,avoid ,don't be tempted to buy a bright colored cheviot suit when a navy charmeen or a smart black and white stripe would be much more distinctive and slenderizing4 ,don't let any one make you look old4 ,avoid bulk in your clothes1 such as heavy skirts1 bulging ornaments1 ruffles1 frills and flounces4 ,learn to delight in slenderizing4 ,enjoy it4 ,it can become as much a hobby as can art in pictures or music4 ,remember you have the responsibility of your own loveliness4 ,if you are not pleasing to see morning1 noon and night1 you can blame nary a soul but yourself4 ,wholesomeness is beautiful anywhere1 any time1 so work to achieve perfection by way of simplicity4 ,your responsibility will be less and the result more sure4 ,wear trim1 one-piece dresses with narrow belts and long1 smart collars4 ,work yourself into the new fads wisely4 ,enjoy the new in dress but do it discreetly so that it blends perfectly with size1 type and inclinations4 ,illustration3 ,youthfulness demands simplicity4 ,short coats overcome the appearance of heaviness over the hips and are at the same time youthful4 ,in the suit above the long revers1 the vertical pockets1 the broken cuff line1 and the lap-front skirt1 all aid in the 8magic0 of slenderness4 ,simplicity and smartness in evening frocks is as essential as those for day-time wear4 ,the first dress is ,georgette with wee pin tucks1 the bodice of brocade1 thus giving length in line and concealed brilliancy desirable for evening wear4 ,at the right is metallic cloth in inconspicuous design1 aided in line by the long velvet ribbon trim4 ,the long1 link necklace also gives length and serves to break the line of the square neck which might otherwise be unbecoming4 ,don't wear feathers2 they are old and 8filling40 ,don't over dress4 ,remember the fewer clothes the better--just enough to be respectable6 ,never bundle yourself up in clothes--wear them for comfort1 beauty1 and becomingness4 ,put a double front in your slips and don't wear petticoats4 ,they pull you in at the wrong place4 ,let your slip also suffice for a corset cover4 ,use perspiration preventatives rather than dress shields1 and don't put linings in your dresses4 ,eliminate even seams that are bulky4 ,avoid buttons4 ,they are allowable for little folks and older folks1 but are too matter of fact for smart simplicity4 ,if you wear knickers be sure that they fit correctly2 don't let them extend too high at the waist or in wide-cuff effect below the knee4 ,a band just below the knee is less heavy looking4 ,,trimness ,,is ,,your ,,goal ,watch out if you wear sweaters4 ,a football type1 never6 ,get soft1 trim coat sweaters and button the last two buttons1 or choose ,tuxedos1 which are best of all4 ,white heavy skirts and bright red heavy sports sweaters can be your 8,waterloo0 if you are not careful4 ,you can1 however1 wear a neat1 white skirt that is soft1 not too full1 and just right in length1 with a dull1 soft blue-green or tan light-weight sweater and look very1 very smart1 especially if your shoes and stockings are all white--not cut up with black and white or sandal-like in shape4 ,and then a perky felt or milan hat1 trimmed at one side1 can look a lot better for sports wear than a drooping wide brim which seems so 8comfy0 for big folk4 ,remember1 trimness is your goal--8perfection in simplicity0--so don't stop short of it in any detail4 ,illustration3 ,in choosing clothes for young girls who are large for their age1 the same rules of optical illusion apply as for adults4 ,for instance1 in the above picture the length lines are deftly used to emphasize the line of youth4 ,even in negligee and in night clothes consider every article1 because habit is as big a factor as fat and quite as difficult to reckon with4 ,in making your night dresses1 you can panel them by means of tucks and make ,v yokes instead of round1 or broad square ones4 ,you may also have them sleeveless and tailored1 all of which will help in making for slenderness4 ,soft crpe night dresses with a woven stripe in self color are attractive4 ,stiff materials will never do4 ,materials that are too sheer show the body outline too much1 and if your material is 8bumpy0 of course it1 too1 is taboo4 ,use short shoulders in your negligees and have definite length lines4 ,if you must have pockets1 point them down so that they won't square the figure across the hips4 ,and choose soft1 easy colors that are becoming4 ,changeable taffetas are to be shunned like the measles4 ,soft crpes and small figured silks and stripes are all suitable4 ,in this campaign1 even the bedroom slippers should be of inconspicuous color so as not to take from the height4 ,work for trimness1 neatness1 preciseness at all times4 ,they all go with a tailored effect and must be observed to the letter if you wish to achieve the illusion of slenderness in dress4 ,,chapter ,x ,,the ,,smart ,,line ,,of ,,dignity ,there comes a time with all of us when we have to admit that we are no longer youthful1 but we never need admit nor should we ever feel that we are no longer young4 ,young hearts1 young eyes1 and young interests can always keep within us the fountain of youth1 and that is our right in life--to enjoy to the last day our heritage1 which means interest in living1 expressing beauty1 tenderness1 and true womanliness4 ,when you have reached this stage of development you should be just as proud and happy about it as when you made your debut thirty years ago4 ,your vision can behold much more now than it could then1 for you can now look both forward and backward1 and then you could only look forward4 ,a wise educator says that every woman should have three careers3 ,the first1 of youth and education2 the second1 of marriage and motherhood2 the third1 of activity in business1 or in advanced motherhood1 or in social or civic life4 ,so it is for the third career that ,i want to write these pages--to you who have a real incentive to be attractive yet have a definite problem of too much weight4 ,,dress ,,smartly1 ,,no ,,matter ,,how ,,old ,,you ,,are ,there is nothing more discouraging than to see a woman become careless of her appearance as she grows older4 ,indeed1 nowadays no woman with proper self-respect would be guilty of such a crime1 for although dignity and womanliness are much to be admired in the mature woman1 there is certainly no excuse for a woman to allow herself to look old or dowdy1 no matter what her age may be4 ,on the contrary1 the older you grow1 the more urgent is your need for clothes that will make you look smart and attractive1 especially if you are even one pound overweight4 ,let your watchword be to dress more smartly each year and to pay more attention with each succeeding season to the demands of fashion4 ,dress to suit your circumstances and needs1 of course1 but never forget to dress appropriately to the occasion as well as to your figure and always with a keen appreciation of youth4 ,illustration3 ,when dignity is the aim1 rich lace is often desirable4 ,the dress above has a circular flare apron in the front only1 and a lengthwise panel in the back1 the lace band giving the desired length line in the front4 ,some older women prefer a short sleeve4 ,a lace sleeve cap is shown for evening wear4 ,full length1 close-fitting sleeves are required for this model for day-time wear4 ,in considering these designs1 take up a current fashion book1 study closely the effective length lines1 remembering that obtrusive breaks in the line are to be avoided4 ,the neckline of the above dress is a good example of correctness1 also the waistline decoration4 ,the side line of the suit coat connecting1 as it does1 with the pocket1 is another example of subtle harmonious line giving the desired length4 ,don't allow salespeople and the family to squelch your desire to look attractive4 ,i remember a dear mother woman of #ee1 round and happy looking1 who made her husband's heart go 8pit-pat0 as much as it had #cj or #dj years before4 ,she went into a millinery shop one day and was shown to the case of bonnets for old ladies4 ,tears came--sincere1 tragic tears4 ,she turned to her daughter and said with a definiteness never to be forgotten1 8,if you ever let anybody put one of those hats on me ,i will leave home40 ,and the daughter knew that she meant what she said4 ,such a woman is a delight to dress4 ,she is interested1 has a responsibility1 and wants to look #de instead of #ee1 and so every available aid should be at hand to help in so worthy a cause4 ,for her1 soft silk dresses are best4 ,they are more nearly in harmony with kindly good humor than stiff firm fabrics4 ,blue that is cool and soft is better for such a type than purple or lavender4 ,lovely grays are better than black4 ,navy blue is best of all4 ,every woman should study her temperament and mood along with her type of figure and work to dress both as perfectly as possible1 remembering that a little frosting is good on any cake1 and even the plainest bread is improved with butter and jam4 ,don't be afraid of the smart hat1 the new trimming1 or a trim new collar that is fashionable4 ,it may help somebody to fall in love with you all over again4 ,keep on the alert for whatever will add youthful charm1 womanly dignity1 and lovely smartness1 as well as slenderness4 ,all the precautions1 suggestions1 and instructions throughout this book are even more important for you than they are for younger women4 ,here are a few1 however1 that apply especially to you4 ,,if ,,you ,,are ,,short ,,and ,,stout ,if you are short and stout1 select lines definitely lengthwise to aid height4 ,lines that extend the full length of the figure are best4 ,neck lines1 panels1 etc41 will improve the general effect if they are made to terminate in a point4 ,crosswise lines and trimmings on skirts are not for the short woman1 as they emphasize breadth and tend to shorten the figure4 ,it is particularly important that you give careful study to those optical illusions which seem to add height and detract width4 ,you cannot be too particular about applying these rules to every garment that you either make or buy4 ,illustration3 ,house or home dresses are as important as those for dress up wear4 ,plain foundation patterns lend themselves to development of good taste dresses such as are shown here4 ,a--,fine stripes of smart coloring are often effective1 especially when definitely tailored4 ,b--,broken yoke and belt lines are frequently used in sports clothes1 are youthful1 and if right in proportions can be as effective as definitely straight lines4 ,c--,a shirtwaist dress often achieves the slender line by the continuance of the double line panel in both blouse and skirt4 ,note that the sleeve is slashed to break the width4 ,d--,small figured all-over design materials are allowable if both design and coloring are inconspicuous4 ,note here that the sleeve is short1 an appropriate length with an untrimmed skirt4 ,,for ,,the ,,tall ,,stout ,,figure ,the tall mature stout figure should watch her lines so that they will not overemphasize height4 ,draped1 as well as tunic skirts may be used to advantage4 ,the possibilities of applying trimming features to garments for the tall woman are more allowable than for the short woman1 but great care must be used to avoid an upholstered effect that detracts from her essential dignity4 ,if the length of the waist is short in proportion to the skirt length1 design and color combinations that do not tend to accentuate this irregularity should be selected4 ,a very common mistake in such cases is to wear a skirt with a high waist line or a dark belt with a white or a light-colored blouse4 ,a short-waisted woman should choose skirts with regulation waist lines or long-waisted blouse effects4 ,,skirts ,,for ,,dignity ,skirts1 whether full or narrow1 that are cut as long as possible without attracting undue attention to their length or causing discomfort1 long tunic skirts1 and plain1 straight-plaited skirts are desirable for the stout woman4 ,she should consistently avoid tiered skirts or skirts with ruffles1 shirring1 and excessive or crosswise trimming4 ,illustration3 ,straight lines in skirts are always advantageous1 especially so if the figure is short below the waist4 ,these suggestions are given as aids to variety4 ,the older you are1 the more generous you can be in skirt length and fullness1 though in no case should your skirts be noticeably far from fashion's dictates4 ,,sleeves ,,for ,,grace ,the sleeves for the mature stout should be plain and soft in appearance and have a tendency to cling to the arm4 ,if the forearm is large and heavy1 a sleeve that comes just below the elbow or to a point #c or #d inches above the wrist is suitable4 ,long1 bulky sleeves1 however1 should never be worn on a heavy forearm4 ,if long sleeves are worn1 they should be made to fit very close below the elbow1 and should be finished at the lower edge with a fold of net or lace or fabric or with a moderately small1 light-weight1 flaring cuff4 ,such finishes will make the hand appear smaller when a glove is not worn4 ,the mature stout woman should never expose her shoulders and upper arms when in evening attire2 rather1 she should cover the flesh with filmy lace or chiffon1 or she should wear a scarf of tulle1 preferably of black or a silent tone1 across the shoulders and the arms4 ,white will make the arms appear larger than they really are1 and black will give the opposite effect4 ,illustration3 ,when dignity is the aim1 one must always seek to give interest in line4 ,youth can manage severity in line and can wear satisfactorily garments that are untrimmed1 but with advancing years1 there comes a greater necessity for variety in detail4 ,a coat1 for instance1 might be boyishly plain for a #bj-year-old girl weighing #afj1 but for the same weight at #ej one needs to slip in a friendly line or cozy bit of fur to modify the severely tailored4 ,the examples shown on the opposite page are worthy of close study1 and a smart ,fashion ,book at your right hand will allow you a modish use of these correct lines in any current fashion4 ,,trimmings ,,to ,,avoid ,in choosing the trimmings for your garments1 remember that buttons or trimmings placed in flat patch effect1 as in squares1 triangles1 or diamonds1 will tend to add thickness and destroy dignity1 while if they are arranged in single rows or broken lines they will add dignity and at the same time give the appearance of length4 ,harmonizing1 rather than contrasting colors should be selected for trimmings1 so that they will not stand out boldly from the garment4 ,never should the collar1 the belt1 or the finish at the bottom of the skirt be permitted to attract the eye before the garment itself does1 but they should be arranged so as to be as inconspicuous as possible4 ,tucks1 plaits1 and seams should be made to extend up and down the garment instead of around it4 ,nowhere else can the laws of optical illusion be so effectively applied1 with such noticeable results1 as in the matter of trimmings4 ,a single ornament1 wrongly placed1 can mar an entire costume for the woman who wants to achieve slenderness4 ,,how ,,the ,,mature ,,woman ,,can ,,appear ,,smart1 ,,attractive1 ,,and ,,charming ,the mature woman--the woman past her first youth--owes it to herself1 her family1 and the world at large to be as becomingly and appropriately dressed as intelligent effort1 skill1 and available money will permit4 ,on her rests the responsibility1 example1 standard of right living1 and the function of leadership4 ,also it is her duty not only to attract and please1 but to hold the admiration of those who believe in her1 and by her charming appearance1 poise1 and dignity to make her particular sphere1 no matter how small or seemingly unimportant it may be1 radiate joy1 peace1 and progress4 ,nearly everybody agrees with the adage that 8a woman is as old as she looks and a man as old as he feels20 at least1 there is no doubt that the mature woman has a big advantage over the mature man4 ,by her dress1 the woman of today can prolong her youth and at the same time she can take on that poise and dignity which the accumulation of years and experience generously bestows upon her1 provided1 of course1 she accepts these years and experiences in the right spirit4 ,deep down in every normal woman lies the girl nature1 and becoming1 appropriate clothes make possible the return of the girl spirit in a dignified way that imparts real charm4 ,illustration3 ,would you believe that the pattern of these two dresses is exactly the same8 ,this illustrates how you can vary a dress once you find the foundation lines that are becoming to you4 ,one pattern can suffice for both a tailored and an afternoon dress1 as you see both effects are pleasing in their slenderness4 ,there is no definite or set period when certain styles of clothes are to be worn by women of different ages4 ,the age limit for certain styles is within the control of every woman herself1 and1 naturally1 the woman who has the most intelligent knowledge and appreciation of herself and her clothes will generally be the best dressed and will convey that undeniable pleasure to observers--a well-dressed and dignified appearance4 ,frequently1 a woman does not become noticeably stout until she has reached the neighborhood of #de or #df years4 ,this time of life is usually the most trying for any woman1 for when youth has taken flight it makes necessary three things if a woman wishes to continue to appear attractive and pleasing3 dignity1 careful grooming1 and correct selection of color1 lines1 and fabric4 ,correct corseting is1 of course1 absolutely essential in order that the entire costume may be in perfect harmony with her individuality and that she may have the appearance of absolute comfort and ease4 ,but there is no reason why a woman of fifty cannot look smartly dressed1 and so she should4 ,it is not only desirable but necessary for her to keep active and progressive both in mind and in body1 and as women's clubs and good reading matter help to develop her intelligence in other respects1 so they are aiming also to help her in selecting the best materials1 colors1 and styles for her clothes4 ,fashion folks need money from all of us to keep their lovely shops going1 so hunt around1 find the shop that has things becoming to you1 then buy or copy them as your purse dictates1 and study fashion magazines and shop windows as you would a speller at a 8spelling bee40 ,dress up--be gracious and charming6 ,everybody will love you for doing it and you will look ten years younger as a result4 ,,chapter ,,xi ,,hats ,,and ,,wraps ,,that ,,slenderize ,don't wear your hats too small4 ,no big woman should look like a pyramid4 ,on the other hand1 don't ever allow your hat brims1 when you want to look alluring1 to extend beyond your shoulders4 ,just inside is wide enough and more becoming4 ,medium sized hats are best at all times4 ,pokes are taboo if your head sets close to your shoulders4 ,let the facings of your hats be of a becoming color4 ,this is an ideal way of emphasizing the color of your eyes4 ,but don't let the facing show prominently1 for if you do your height will seem to terminate with the bottom of your hat and you will lose in appearance in consequence4 ,the evolution in woman's habits of living has made the enormous hat perched on top of a high pompadour an utter impossibility1 and no woman needs to move farther away from such a fad than the big woman4 ,her hat must fit her perfectly1 in head size and in width and height1 and at the same time must be comfortable1 smart1 and becoming4 ,it is essential that the hat be worn correctly1 8rightly set10 for it is easy to lose dignity if the hat appears to be hung on a corner of the head instead of being placed so as to become1 apparently1 a part of the head4 ,,hat ,,shapes ,,to ,,wear ,,and ,,not ,,to ,,wear ,in the category of shapes we have the flat sailor1 with brim from #a inch to #e inches wide2 the drooping or mushroom brim2 the even roll brim2 the irregular roll2 the coronet brim2 and the toque4 ,the round plump face should never be framed with an even rolling brim which suggests the moon with a ring around it1 but should have its roundness lengthened by an angular curve or broken line that will give height at the side1 or a diadem coronet effect1 giving height in the direct front4 ,the crown should be at least as broad as the cheeks and continue that width1 or spread a little wider at the top1 but never assume a cone shape4 ,the plump woman lives through a period when a sailor line is most becoming of all4 ,then comes a time1 and she1 herself1 cannot tell why1 when the sailor proves a disappointment4 ,it is then that she turns to a larger hat or to a turban type1 either of which can prove just as unflattering as the sailor if it is too large or too small4 ,you need to watch both size and shape for the big hat can make you look top heavy1 the little hat old4 ,illustration3 ,these two examples show how even a hat with drooping brim1 if not too wide1 can be worn by the stout person if trimming is adeptly used to direct the vision upward and lend an illusion of height4 ,a short1 stout woman should avoid a squatty mushroom hat1 because it exaggerates her lack of height1 and adds years in appearance4 ,she should choose a narrow brim and high crown1 calculated to add length of line and absorb some of the rotundity of her features4 ,the woman who is proportionately larger than the average will find the drooping mushroom with rather broad sides and a medium size crown that conforms to the shape of the head1 trimmed in an even compact arrangement1 decidedly becoming4 ,the stout woman of medium height can wear this same type of hat with slight alteration on the brim line2 that is1 instead of the sides drooping down midway from the head-size on both sides1 the brim assumes a slight upward curve which continues around the back while the crown may be from one to two inches taller than ordinarily4 ,this depends upon the prevailing fashion4 ,if the chin recedes1 never wear a hat that flares up and forward from the brow1 for it would emphasize the line of the chin4 ,a hat with a tiny brim and a high1 straight crown seems the best style4 ,accordingly1 the large woman with a protruding chin requires a counteracting forward effect in the brim2 therefore1 she will find a small hat1 with an abrupt upward turning brim1 in the style generally known as the ,russian effect1 smart and becoming4 ,illustration3 ,here trimming is used on two entirely different types of hats to give in each case added height to the figure and help in attaining a slenderizing appearance4 ,left--,hats with medium brims and high trimming are often becoming1 especially if wide enough to avoid the pyramid effect4 ,right--,high built trimming and delicate veils are advantageous where a double chin is the handicap4 ,the double chin is another problem that the large woman has found difficult to solve4 ,for this type1 the rather high hat1 or a top-heavy turban1 if it conforms to the vogue and is in good taste1 is desirable4 ,a scarf or veil craftily arranged around the neck will do much to hide this unbecoming roll of flesh4 ,nowhere is a thorough knowledge of the laws of optical illusion more necessary than in your selection of hats4 ,cheap hats are a false economy1 especially for the large woman4 ,do not1 therefore1 spend your good money on any hat unless you are sure it will add the desired lines to your appearance4 ,this1 as you must realize by this time1 is really quite easy to do4 ,,hat ,,colors ,,to ,,wear ,,and ,,not ,,to ,,wear ,to avoid harsh and trying colors in hats should be the principal aim of the big woman1 for they tend to emphasize the bigness we are trying to make less conspicuous4 ,the staples1 dark navy and black1 are always equally suitable for blondes and brunettes1 and carry smartness for street wear4 ,grays1 too1 provided the skin permits them1 are in good taste4 ,silver-gray1 platinum or zinc are good choices for the large woman4 ,while you need not be overwhelmingly conventional1 you must appreciate your limitations about the extremes in shapes1 color1 and trimming arrangement4 ,trimmings for our hats should never be heavy nor 8bunchy10 but at an angle and more perky than anything else4 ,avoid small ornaments1 too4 ,a bow or ornament on a hat can make a great deal of difference in its height-giving advantages4 ,,wraps ,,that ,,slenderize ,,and ,,those ,,that ,,do ,,not ,first1 beware of fur coats4 ,even though rich and luxurious1 they are bulky and heavy in appearance4 ,trim1 tailored coats are more flattering and less expensive1 so think twice before you buy a fur coat4 ,buy lovely soft fabrics that are rich in quality and soft enough to 8cling40 ,remember that word and think of it every time you buy anything but hats4 ,let your coat be unbroken in line and untrimmed4 ,a big button set on the stomach can destroy more art than you can plan out in a month4 ,oblong buttons at the side or string ties of the material of the coat are best4 ,have your coat long or hip length4 ,watch the line carefully4 ,there is a point that is becoming in length2 make sure you find it4 ,illustration3 ,as shown here1 fasteners for coats should be placed at the side and be as inconspicuous as possible4 ,if you are square shouldered you may find capes very becoming1 but generally they add size rather than reduce it4 ,long fur or fabric scarfs are desirable4 ,ostrich or ruffly scarfs1 of course1 are to be looked at with admiration for their softness and color1 but rarely worn by anyone desiring a slenderizing effect4 ,,chapter ,,xii ,,looking ,,slender ,,is ,,an ,,art1 ,a ,,necessity1 ,,and ,a ,,pleasure ,we cannot all be beautiful but we can give pleasure to ourselves and others by being correctly and pleasingly attired at all times4 ,and it is necessary1 too1 this keeping always alert1 in this day of competition and progressive freedom of women4 ,your responsibility to look well is greater than ever before4 ,so work1 watch1 study and persevere and be happy about it4 ,good health is the greatest essential4 ,and no matter what you weigh1 you can1 by following the rules given you in this book1 look at least #bj to #dj pounds lighter than you are4 ,you can have real fun and keep off any additional weight by your alertness1 interest and enthusiasm for looking your 8slenderest best0 all the time4 ,of course1 women who are decidedly overweight need to know these rules of slenderizing dress more than those who are only a few pounds above the normal4 ,but in this imperfect world of ours there are few women indeed1 no matter how much or how little they may weigh1 whose proportions are perfect and satisfactory4 ,where indeed is the woman or girl who would not like to be a little slimmer here1 a little taller there1 a little more gracefully proportioned one place or another8 ,,harmonious ,,proportions--,,the ,,aim ,,of ,,every ,,woman ,i cannot be too emphatic in my assertion that the wrong clothes1 or even a wrong detail in a costume may mar an entire effect and may indeed create the illusion of ungainliness and dumpiness even in a girl who may be underweight1 as far as actual pounds go4 ,perfect proportions then are the aim of every woman who wants to make the best of herself and ,i am certain that a careful study of these rules of optical illusion and an intelligent application of them will improve the appearance of every woman4 ,nor is it the moneyed woman who is always the best dressed4 ,far from it indeed4 ,sometimes it is the shop girl whose few dollars have been wisely and intelligently spent for smartness and becomingness who looks most charming and most distinguished1 for since these girls rarely have rich furs and jewels they can more simply and more tellingly emphasize beauty of line and color4 ,the stout woman improves her position by omission rather than addition4 8,every little bit added to what you have makes just a little bit more0 is all right for ,scotch pennies1 but not for one who is working to look #cj or #dj pounds lighter4 ,be slim by being trim2 be attractive by being immaculate2 and strive with all your might for grace1 ease1 and personal charm4 ,never yield to a misuse of color1 line1 or fabric4 ,never give up in your determination to dress for slenderness4 ,you must admit right now that it is far more interesting than diet and much more effective4 ,and now that you know the rules1 study and practice them4 ,apply them to perfection so that when dressed you will make a picture of loveliness such as all may envy and admire4 ,whistler says1 8,a picture is finished when all trace of the means used to bring about the end has disappeared4 8,to say of a picture1 as is often said in its praise1 that it shows great and earnest labor1 is to say that it is incomplete and unfit to view4 8,the work of the master reeks not of the sweat of the brow--it suggests no effort40 ,so hide the means1 let it not be visible to any one that you have deliberately and with intent worked to achieve slenderness in your dress4 ,only in that way will you really achieve it4 ,,simplicity ,,is ,,the ,,first ,,essential ,as you have read and studied this book you have been told many times what not to do4 ,this advice has been repeated so frequently because ,i have wanted to impress you with the fact that simplicity in dress is the first essential of ,youth1 ,dignity and ,slenderness4 ,so to leave out of your costume the offensive coloring1 line or trimming is of prime importance4 ,here are a few points always to be remembered in planning and designing or in buying clothes for yourself3 ,choose fabrics that cling1 that are of smooth1 soft surface1 that are lusterless4 ,choose colors that recede--none that 8light up0 and 8advance0 in the eye4 ,avoid clothes that are too small4 ,avoid a tight1 short waist line4 ,avoid skirts that are too full1 too short1 or too long4 ,use set-in sleeves rather than kimono sleeves unless the arm is very attractive4 ,then the sleeve must be very short or the dress sleeveless4 ,and here1 finally1 are ten chief rules that will help you profit to the utmost by what you have learned from this book and aid you speedily in attaining that slenderized appearance which is your aim3 ,,here ,,are ,,the ,,ten ,,chief ,,rules ,,in ,a ,,nutshell #a4 ,whenever you make over an old garment or design1 have made1 or purchase a new one always apply to it the rules of optical illusion as regards line1 color1 and fabric4 #b4 ,when you know what is becoming1 try to achieve becomingness in an attractive way1 emphasizing as much smartness and youthful charm in your dress as age1 circumstances and occasion will allow4 #c4 ,consider what is best for you as an individual4 ,study your type until you are sure what you can and what you cannot wear--do not try fantastic experiments unless you have unlimited means4 #d4 ,make it a definite rule to assemble your attire and decide on every detail before you begin to dress4 #e4 ,aim always to be refreshing1 clean1 neat1 and carefully groomed4 #f4 ,wear neat1 good-looking1 perfect fitting shoes appropriate to the size of your feet1 and choose trim1 sheer stockings that do not contrast too strikingly1 if at all1 with the color of your costume4 #g4 ,be sure your corsets are right for you and that they surround you comfortably1 but do not mold or hold your flesh too tightly4 ,let your brassiere fit perfectly4 #h4 ,let your slip be of fine1 smooth silk or batiste4 ,have it of the same color as your dress or of a harmonizing shade4 ,let the bottom edge come a trifle shorter than that of the dress1 and be sure it fits you without a wrinkle4 #i4 ,when you are dressed1 look yourself over carefully in front of your mirror and improve every detail as much as possible4 ,before the last look or the last dab of powder1 consider carefully whether you are overdressed and whether all accessories go together1 and especially make certain that you are not overtrimmed with jewelry1 necklaces1 or knickknacks4 #aj4 ,then1 when all is done1 put on a smile that expresses the finest that is in you1 that compliments you for doing your best4 ,and if1 to this smile1 you add all the kindliness that you can command1 all the happiness that you can summon1 your friends and your very own folks will declare you charming4 ,,printed ,,in ,u4,s4,a4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,transcriber',s ,,notes #a4 ,silently corrected typographical errors and variations in spelling4 #b4 ,archaic1 non-standard1 and uncertain spellings retained as printed4 #c4 ,enclosed italics font in underscores4