,,notes ,,9 ,,japan ,illu/ration3 ,see page #aj ,,9 ,,kasuga ,,p>k1 ,,n>a--,,an ,,old ,,cryptom]ia ,,notes ,,9 ,,japan ,,by ,,alfr$ ,,p>sons ,,) ,,illu/rations ,,by ,,! ,,au?or ,illu/ration ,,new ,,york ,,h>p] ,,bro!rs ,,publi%]s #ahif ,copyright1 #ahie1 by ,,h>p] ,,bro!rs4 ,all rights res]v$4 ,illu/ration ,,cont5ts ,,page ,,! ,,japanese ,,spr+ #c ,,e>ly ,,summ] ,,9 ,,japan #de ,,! ,,"t ,,( ,,! ,,lotus #ha ,,fujisan #aai ,,"s ,,w&]+s ,,9 ,,japan #aec ,,autumn ,,9 ,,japan #aic ,,illu/rations ,,page ,,9 ,,kasuga ,,p>k1 ,,n>a--,,an ,,old ,,cryptom]ia ,frontispiece ,,d$ication vii ,,*]ry-,,blossom ,,badge1 ,,yo%9o #b ,,9 ,,! ,,inl& ,,sea #d ,,hills ,,ne> ,k,,be1 ,,f ,,suwa-,,yama #e ,,e>ly ,,plum ,,blossoms1 ,,okamoto1 ,,ne> ,k,,be #g ,,! ,,torii ,,( ,,kasuga ,,temple1 ,,n>a #aa ,,old ,,wi/>ia ,,9 ,,kasuga ,,p>k1 ,,n>a #ac ,,! ,,pagoda ,,( ,,kob,,kuji1 ,,n>a #ad ,,*]ry-,,tree ,,& ,,lant]ns1 ,,ni-,,gwatsu-,d1 ,,n>a #ae ,,! ,,well ,,( ,,sankat*u1 ,,n>a #ag ,,*]ry ,,blossoms ,,9 ,,! ,,ra91 ,,n>a #ai ,,s>a-,,hiki-,,saka1 ,,ne> ,,yo%9o--,,lat] ,,*]ries #ba ,,*]ry ,,& ,,late ,,plum1 ,,tema-,,*o1 ,,ne> ,,n>a #bc ,a ,,buddhi/ ,,temple ,,at ,,yo%9o--,,d\ble-,,fl[]$ ,,*]ry ,,& ,,magnolia #bg ,,cross+ ,,! ,,f]ry ,,at ,,muda1 ,,on ,,! ,,yo%9o-,,gawa #cj ,,mi ,,komori ,,j9ja1 ,a ,,%9to ,,temple ,,ne> ,,yo%9o #ca ,,! ,,/reet1 ,,hase #cd ,,&rom$a ,,bu%es ,,9 ,,kasuga ,,p>k1 ,,n>a #ce ,,:ite ,,wi/>ia1 ,,hase-,,d]a #cg ,a ,,tall ,,wi/>ia1 ,,kasuga ,,p>k1 ,,n>a #ci ,,notes ,,at ,,muda #da ,,badge ,,( ,,! ,,kiku-,,sui-,,ya #db ,,iris ,,japonica #dd ,,c>ry+ ,,home ,,tea ,,leaves1 ,,ne> ,,uji #df ,a ,,plantation ,,cov]$ ,,) ,,matt+ ,,ne> ,,uji #dg ,,pond ,,9 ,,! ,,g>d5 ,,( ,,raku-,,raku-,,tei1 ,,hikone #di ,,! ,,ca/le ,,at ,,hikone #ea ,,! ,,ca/le ,,at ,,nagoya1 ,,field ,,( ,,iris ,,9 ,,! ,,=egr\nd #eb ,,an ,,old ,,ca/le ,,moat1 ,,aka%i1 ,,ne> ,k,,be #ec ,,fields ,,ne> ,,lake ,,biwa #ee ,o ,,kazu ,,san #eg ,,prep>+ ,,! ,,rice-,,fields #ei ,,my ,,rooms ,,at ,,t5n5ji #fj ,,buddha ,,& ,,8 ,,disciples1 ,,t5n5ji #fa ,,hikone ,,& ,,lake ,,biwa1 ,,f ,,! ,,hills ,,beh9d ,,t5n5ji #fd ,,azaleas ,,on ,,! ,,rocks1 ,,t5n5ji #fe ,,! ,,poem #fg ,,:ite ,,azalea ,,bu%1 ,,raku-,,raku-,,tei1 ,,hikone #fi ,,! ,,bamboo ,,grove1 ,,t5n5ji #ga ,,sunset ,,ov] ,,lake ,,biwa1 ,,f ,,t5n5ji #ge ,,plant+ ,,rice #gg ,a ,,spr+ ,,fl[]--,,jiro-,,bo #gh ,,platycodon ,,gr&iflorum1 8,,kikyo0 #hj ,,auratum ,,lilies ,,& ,,bocconia ,,on ,,! ,,hills ,,ne> ,,nikko #hb ,a ,,field ,,( ,,lilies1 ,,(una1 ,,ne> ,,kamakura #hc ,,sev5 ,,beautiful ,,fl[]s ,,( ,,late ,,summ] #he ,,hydrangea ,,bu%1 ,,totsuka1 ,,ne> ,,yokohama #hg ,,"u ,,! ,,cryptom]ias ,,at ,,nikko #hi ,a ,,little ,,temple ,,at ,,nikko #ia ,,kirifuri1 ,,ne> ,,nikko #ic ,,! ,,moor ,,ne> ,,yumoto #id ,a ,,wet ,,day ,,at ,,*,,z5ji #ie ,,! ,,foot ,,( ,,nantai-,,zan #ig ,,! ,,moat ,,( ,,b5t5-,,%iba #ii ,,spectators #ajd ,,! ,,la/ ,,tea ,,leaves--,,cottage ,,ne> ,,yokohama #aje ,,lotus-,,ponds ,,at ,,kamakura #ajg ,,lotus-,,pat* ,,among ,,! ,,rice-,,fields1 ,,kawasaki1 ,t,,ky #aji ,a ,,tea-,,h\se ,,at ,,kamakura #aaj ,,yoritomo',s ,,will[s ,,& ,,8 ,,%r9e #aaa ,,japanese ,,wre/l]s #aac ,,lesp$eza 8,,hagi0 #aae ,,! ,,he>t-,,leav$ ,,lily #aaf ,,campanulas ,,on ,,fuji #aah ,,go+ ,,up ,,9 ,,! ,,mi/ #aba ,a ,,cl\dy ,,ev5+1 ,,f ,,! ,,s&s ,,( ,,tago-,,no-,,ura #abc ,,fuji ,,f ,,! ,,abekawa1 ,,& ,,! ,,tokaido ,,bridge #abd ,,on ,,! ,,nor!rn ,,slope ,,( ,,fuji--,,grass-,,cutt]s ,,return+ #abf ,,! ,,second ,,%elt] ,,9 ,,! ,,gotamba ,,pa? #abh ,,fuji ,,) ,,its ,,cap ,,on #acj ,,fuji ,,f ,,! ,,kawagu*i ,,lake #aca ,,f ,,! ,,top ,,( ,,fuji1 ,,look+ ,,nor? #acc ,,! ,,great ,,palm ,,at ,,ryugeji1 ,,fuji ,,9 ,,! ,,di/ance #ace ,,! ,,crat] ,,( ,,fuji #acf ,,an ,,old ,,r$ ,,p9e ,,at ,,yo%ida #aci ,,naka-,,no-,,*aya1 ,,on ,,! ,,nor!rn ,,slope #adc ,,! ,,r$-,,p9e ,,grove ,,at ,,yo%ida #ade ,,fuji ,,ov] ,,! ,,rice-,,fields ,,( ,,suzukawa #adf ,,! ,,fl[]y ,,moorl& #adg ,,tail-,,piece #aej ,,tricyrtis ,,hirta1 ,,atami #aeb ,,tago-,,no-,,ura #aee ,,cottages ,,at ,,nemba #aef ,,lake ,,suwa ,,& ,,! ,,nakas5do ,,m\nta9s1 ,,f ,,kami-,,no-,,suwa #aei ,,t\ri/s ,,at ,a ,,wat]fall #afc ,,niegawa1 ,,on ,,! ,,nakas5do #afe ,a ,,little ,,%9to ,,%r9e1 ,,ne> ,,! ,,nakas5do #aff ,a ,,boat-,,m5d] ,,by ,,! ,,t5ryugawa #afg ,,banana-,,trees ,,at ,,atami #aga ,,! ,,f]ry ,,at ,,tokimata #agc ,,on ,,! ,,t5ryugawa #agd ,,! ,,village ,,/reet1 ,,atami--,,vries ,,isl& ,,9 ,,! ,,di/ance #age ,,on ,,! ,,t5ryugawa1 ,,ne> ,,kajima #agg ,,autumn-,,grass 7,,suzuki7 #agi ,a ,,ru/ic ,,bridge ,,at ,,doga%ima1 ,,ne> ,,miya-,,no-,,%ita #ahc ,,av5ues ,,( ,,torii ,,9 ,,front ,,( ,,an ,,in>i ,,temple1 ,,ne> ,,%imizu #ahe ,,jiz ,,sama1 ,,ne> ,,hakone #ahg ,,tail-,,piece #aij ,,! ,,autumn ,,lily #aib ,,fields ,,ne> ,,hamamatsu #aid ,,! ,,edge ,,( ,,! ,,tokaido1 ,,ne> ,,hamamatsu #aie ,,! ,,isl& ,,( ,,awaji1 ,,f ,,maiko #aih ,,on ,,! ,,%ore ,,ne> ,,maiko1 ,,! ,,/rait ,,( ,,aka%i ,,to ,,! ,,"r #aii ,,lilies ,,by ,,! ,,%ore1 ,,suma #bjj ,a ,,gravey>d ,,at ,,suma #bja ,,hills ,,beh9d ,k,,be #bjb ,a ,,bamboo-,,y>d ,,at ,,maib>a #bjc ,,blue ,,wat]-,,we$ #bjd ,,! ,,travell+ ,,!atre ,,at ,,maib>a #bje ,,laun*+ ,a ,,boat #bjh ,,lake ,,biwa ,,) ,,flood$ ,,rice-,,fields1 ,,ne> ,,maib>a #bji ,,"o ,,( ,,! 8,,yama0 ,,at ,,! ,,nagahama ,,matsuri #bac ,,"s ,,hats ,,at ,,! ,,nagahama ,,matsuri #bad ,,! ,,temple ,,g>d51 ,,seigwanji #bae ,,m9iature ,,pagoda ,,9 ,,! ,,temple ,,g>d51 ,,seigwanji #bag ,a ,,*rysan!mum ,,%[ ,,at ,,yokohama #bai ,,! ,,ars5al ,,g>d51 ,,koi%ikawa1 ,t,,ky #bbc ,,tail-,,piece #bbe ,,ly*nis ,,gr&iflora1 ,,misaka-,,toge #bbf ,,! ,,japanese ,,spr+ ,illu/ration3 ,,*]ry-,,blossom ,,badge1 ,,yo%9o ,,! ,,japanese ,,spr+ ,illu/ration ,we _h left ,hong-,kong envelop$ 9 its usual spr+ fog1 & = five long1 we>y days _h /eam$ across ! ,*9a ,sea 9 regul> monsoon wea!r1 gray & wet & mis]able1 b dur+ ! fif? "s rocky isl&s1 outly+ s5t9els ( ! ?ree ?\s& :i* compose ! ,mikado's realm1 & occasional squ>e-sail$1 high-/]n$ boats1 %[$ t we 7 ne> ,japan1 ! ,f> ,ea/1 ! ,l& ( ,fl[]s & ( ! ,ris+ ,sun1 ! c\ntry :i* = ye>s x _h be5 my dream to see & pa9t2 & by six o'clock 9 ! ev5+1 on ! #i? ( ,m>*1 we 7 at an*or 9 ,nagasaki ,bay4 ,! aspect ( t port on a wet day 0 n invit+1 nor 7 ! little grimy girls1 :o 9 a *att]+1 laugh+ l9e c>ri$ _! baskets ( coal on bo>d2 s1 difficult z x 0 to decl9e ! hospitable invitations ( ! ,engli% resid5ts1 ,i decid$ to g on ) ! %ip to ,kbe4 ,e>ly 9 ! morn+ ( ! #aa? we pass$ ?r\gh ! ,/rait ( ,%imonoseki--! sun %9+ brightly on ! sn[y hills & on ! cr[d ( fi%+-boats :i* _h be5 %elt]+ !re f ! bad wea!r--& ent]$ ! ,inl& ,sea4 ,aft] s _m days ( monoton\s gray ocean x 0 delightful to /eam along 9 sight ( l&1 & w9d ab\t among ! islets & rocks1 s ne> to _m ( !m t we c\ld see ! little villages1 ! mi/s ( :ite plum blossoms1 ! r[s ( beans & b>ley gr[+ :]ev] a level pat* c\ld be made on ! /eep slopes1 ! p at "w 9 _! ,illu/ration3 ,,9 ,,! ,,inl& ,,sea fields1 & always 9 ! di/ance ! ranges ( sn[-cov]$ m\nta9s 9 ,kiu%iu & ,%ikoku1 ! isl&s :i* enclose ?is lovely sea on ! s\?4 ,i long$ to l& & beg9 "w at once1 ) a n]v\s dread 9 my he>t t ,i %\ld f9d no?+ s good else:]e1 &1 inde$1 ?\gh !re is pl5ty ( mat]ial to be f\nd ev]y:]e 9 ,japan1 ,i saw no?+ f9] ?an ^! isl&s ( ! ,inl& ,sea2 to cruise ab\t among !m 9 a com=table boat w\ld be an ideal way to sp5d a summ]1 & w\ld probably n be devoid ( adv5ture1 = our capta9 told me _m tales ( trea*]\s curr5ts & sudd5 squalls & sunk5 reefs4 ,illu/ration3 ,,hills ,,ne> ,k,,be1 ,,f ,,suwa-,,yama ,we rea*$ ,kbe next morn+1 & be=e ,i _h be5 on %ore m ?an an h\r ,i _h he>d ( a village six miles away :i* 0 celebrat$ = its plum or*>ds1 & _h />t$ (f to f9d x4 ,okamoto lies at ! foot ( ! hills :i* rise beh9d ,kbe on ! nor?1 & climbs a little way up !m1 & 9 front ( ! highe/ cottage1 a mode/ tea-h\se ) plat=ms arrang$ to accommodate ! visitors :o come 9 cr[ds to gaze at ! blossoms1 ,i unfold$ my /ool & easel1 & 9 spite ( a bitt] w9d & vici\s little sn[-/orms made my fir/ sket* 9 ,japan4 ,all r\nd me & 9 ! village bel[ 7 ! p9k-&-:ite trees1 !n a b& ( rice-l&s1 pale gre5 ) "y b>ley1 & beyond !m lay ,osaka ,bay1 & ! m\nta9s ( ,yamato1 :i* con/antly *ang$ 9 color z sn[-/orms pass$ ov]1 or gleams ( sun light$ ! %9+ wat] & ! sn[ on ! di/ant hills4 ,x is an excit+ ?+ to beg9 "w 9 a new c\ntry1 to comp>e ! local color & ! atmosph]e ) ^? y h tri$ be=e1 & to f9d y\rself half unconsci\sly us+ an entirely new set ( pigm5ts4 ,i 0 too absorb$ ) ^! problems to take any notice ( ! fact t my back 0 a*+1 b aft] two h\rs1 :5 ,i _h f9i%$ my draw+1 ,i f\nd myself unable to rise f t sket*+-/ool1 & = ! next =tnight an attack ( lumbago prev5t$ my see+ any?+ m ( ! plum groves4 ,! ,buddhi/ pictures ( _! ,inf]no depict _m +5i\s tortures2 ,i ?9k !y ought to add a man ) lumbago do+ six miles ov] a ,japanese by-road 9 a j9rick%a4 ,:5 at la/ ,i got back to ,okamoto !re 7 /ill "s blossoms1 & ! trees 7 t+$ ) ! p9k ( )]$ petals1 b ! luxuriant fre%ness _h gone4 ,on ! #ac? ( ,april ,i said good-bye to my fri5ds & to ! com=ts ( ! ,kbe ,club1 & />t$ = ,n>a1 /opp+ on my way at ,osaka to h a look at ! t[n & see ! pea* blossoms on ,momo-,yama 7pea* m\nta974 ,! n>r[ /reets lead+ up ! hill 7 cr[d$ ) visitors1 & among ! or*>ds ( dw>f trees tempor>y tea-%$s & re/+-places _h be5 erect$ = _! com=t & refre%m5t4 ,9 spite ( ! _m picturesque features 9 ^! ftes ! :ole effect is at fir/ disappo9t+3 rail+s & /ages ( new raw deal1 ! untidy & unf9i%$ look ( r\gh bamboo /ructures1 ) corn]s ( matt+ hang+ loosely 9 places :]e !y int]f]e ) ! p]spective l9es1 ! slov5ly pa?ways1 ,illu/ration3 ,,e>ly ,,plum ,,blossoms1 ,,okamoto1 ,,ne> ,k,,be :i* are mud or du/ accord+ to ! wea!r--all ^! ?+s make unsatisfactory accessories = ! figures & ! fl[]s4 ,aft] a "t !y obtrude !mselves less on y\r notice1 & y h le>n$ to accept ! fact t ,japan is n a c\ntry ( big masses & broad effects1 b ( int]e/+ bits & amus+ details4 ,?is is usually true ( its l&scape2 ! =ms ( m\nta9s & trees are m qua9t ?an gr&1 & ! cultivat$ l& has no broad /ret*es ( pa/ure or corn1 b is cut up into pat*es1 ma9ly rice-fields1 ) v>i\s vegetables gr[n 9 little squ>es "h & !re4 ,x 0 z yet too e>ly 9 ! ye> = any rice to be plant$ out4 ,9 ! f]tile valley ?r\gh :i* ! railway runs f ,osaka to ,n>a "s new fields 7 ly+ wet or fall[1 o!rs 7 be+ prep>$ by spade labor1 & o!rs aga91 n yet flood$1 7 cov]$ ) ! bright gre5 ( "y b>ley1 or ! /rong light yell[ ( rape 9 fl[]4 ,?\gh ,i _h read mu* ab\t life 9 ,japan1 x 0 an emb>rass+ exp]i5ce to be set d[n = ! fir/ "t ) my baggage 9 a ,japanese room1 & to try & adapt myself m5tally to ! possibilities ( liv+ "u su* conditions4 ,9 a b>e hut or t5t ! problem is comp>atively simple2 !re is always "o way by :i* y mu/ ent]2 b 9 a ,japanese room !re is too mu* lib]ty2 ?ree ( ! walls are opaque slid+ scre5s1 ! f\r? is a transp>5t1 or r transluc5t1 "o2 y c come 9 or g out :]e y l2 !re is no table on :i* ?+s mu/ be put1 no *air on :i* y mu/ sit1 no fireplace to /& ) y\r back to--j a clean1 matt$ floor & p]fect fre$om ( *oice4 ,european trunks look hopelessly ugly & unsympa!tic 9 su* surr\nd+s1 nor are matt]s mu* improv$ :5 ! ho/1 9 def]5ce to ! habits ( a =eign]1 s5ds 9 a r\gh deal table1 ) a clo? ( unhemm$ cotton1 int5d$ to be :ite1 & an uncompromis+1 /raight-back$ deal *air4 ,^! hide\s articles make a man feel a%am$1 = ?\gh !y are only a burlesque ( our civilization1 !y are produc$ ) an air ( pride :i* %[s t ! own] is conv9c$ !y are ! "r ?+1 & "o _c b be humiliat$ by _! ugl9ess & want ( com=t4 ,yet if y want to read or write y h to keep !m & make ! be/ ( !m1 = a long ev5+ on ! floor is only to be borne aft] a good _m weeks ( practice4 ,?+s beg9 to look bright] & pleasant] :5 ! little wait+-maid appe>s1 br++ fir/ "s cu%ions & ! hiba*i1 ) its pile ( gl[+ *>coal1 & !n ! tea-tray & a few sweet cakes4 ,?is 0 m ! sort ( ?+ ,i _h expect$1 & made me at once feel at home ) my surr\nd+s4 ,x is ! fir/ att5tion %[n y 9 e tea-h\se1 no matt] h[ humble2 :e!r y g z an inmate1 or :e!r y m]ely sit d[n = a few m9utes' re/ on a j\rney1 ! little tea-pot & ! t9y cups are at once produc$1 & ! hiba*i is plac$ by y\r side1 a pleasant & fri5dly welcome1 :i* nev] fail$ to make its impression on me1 h[ev] poor ! quality ( ! tea might be4 ,! ,kiku-sui-ya 7:i* means ,*rysan!mum-wat] h\se7 is ne> ! entrance to ! great ,kasuga ,p>k at ,n>a2 j outside x ! road passes "u a granite torii flank$ ) /one lant]ns1 & w9ds up to ! temple ?r\gh an av5ue ( cryptom]ias1 ) r[s ( lant]ns on ea* side1 :i* get clos] & clos] toge!r z !y ne> ! temple build+s1 & are s num]\s t tradition says !y h nev] be5 c\nt$4 ,!re are boo?s "h & !re :]e pilgrims c re/ & get a cup ( tea1 = pilgrimage 9 ,japan is n made unnecess>ily uncom=table1 & :]e ! tame de] congregate to take ! nuts & cakes :i* are sold ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,torii ,,( ,,kasuga ,,temple1 ,,n>a = !m to ! pass]s-by4 ,f e>ly morn+ till ne>ly sund[n ?is road is lively ) gr\ps ( visitors4 ,n>a is s ne> to ,osaka t among !m a spr9kl+ ( m51 mo/ly no d\bt engag$ 9 comm]ce1 wore =eign dress1 b ! majority ( ! p 7 9 _! native clo!s1 & z ,i sat & pa9t$ by ! road-side ,i c\ld /udy ! v>iations ( ,japanese co/ume--f t ( ! old peasant ) 8 :ite or blue ,illu/ration3 ,,old ,,wi/>ia ,,9 ,,kasuga ,,p>k1 ,,n>a legg+s1 /raw %oes1 big hat1 & robe tuck$ into 8 girdle1 8 head %av$ d[n ! middle1 & ! back hair turn$ up 9 a queue 9 ! anci5t mode1 to t ( ! gay "y musum ) h] ri* silk kimono1 gorge\s sc>let petticoat1 broad obi1 & black-lacqu]$ s&als on h] pigeon-to$1 :ite-sock$ feet4 ,! cryptom]ias are good1 b ! old wi/>ias are ! glory ( ,kasuga ,p>k4 ,! great ,fujiw>a family =m]ly own$ or 7 patrons ( ! temple1 & ?\gh x is n[ imp]ial prop]ty1 _! cre/1 ! wi/>ia fl[] 7fuji no hana71 is /ill worn by ! little girls :o p]=m ! sacr$ dance !re1 & all ov] ! p>k ! wi/>ia v9es are all[$ to gr[ z !y *oose1 _! great snaky /ems wri?+ along ! gr\nd & twi/+ up to ! tops ( ! highe/ trees4 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,pagoda ,,( ,,kob,,kuji1 ,,n>a ,"o v wet day1 :5 pa9t+ out-(-doors 0 impossible1 ,i w5t r\nd to see ! sights ( ,n>a--,kobkuji ) its pagoda & f9e old /atues1 ! great ,buddha1 ! celebrat$ big bell1 & beyond ^! ! ,buddhi/ temple ,ni-gwatsu-d1 p]*$ on a hill-side1 ! /eps lead+ up to x l9$ ) /one lant]ns1 little %r9es1 & boo?s = ! sale ( endless trifles4 ,! plat=m surr\nd+ ?is temple is support$ 9 front by a scaffold+ ( beams1 at ! back x abuts aga9/ ! hill1 & f ! heavy project+ ro( :i* cov]s bo? plat=m & temple hang hundr$s ( bronze lant]ns1 votive (f]+s4 ,ea* ( ^! _h be5 appropriat$ by a sp>r[2 tru/+ to ! sanctity ( ! spot1 !y _h pil$ 9 all ! rubbi% !y c\ld f9d to make _! ne/s2 odd ends ( /raw & pap] /uck out ev]y:]e1 %[+ t _! /ay 9 ! ,ea/ _h n taught !m tidy habits4 ,i am sorry to say t _! confid5ce 0 misplac$2 a temple fe/ival came r\nd be=e _! eggs 7 hat*$1 & ! :ole ( !m ) _! embryo families 7 ru?lessly evict$ 9 ord] t ! lant]ns might be light$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,*]ry-,,tree ,,& ,,lant]ns1 ,,ni-,,gwatsu-,d1 ,,n>a ,! p>k at ,n>a is "o ( ! few places 9 ,japan :]e y c see real turf1 & ev5 !re ,i 0 /ruck by ! sc>city ( gr\nd fl[]s2 !re 7 pl5ty ( sc5tless violets1 "s yell[ & :ite d&elions1 & 9 ! damp dit*es a little purple fl[] call$ jirobo by ! c\ntry p1 b !re 0 no?+ to comp>e ) ! masses ( daisies1 butt]cups1 & c[slips :i* make ! ,engli% mead[s s bright 9 ! spr+4 ,p]haps ! m\nta9 moorl&s w\ld h be5 z gay at t "t z ,i f\nd !m lat] 9 ! ye>2 ! fields are f> too well cultivat$ = any we$ to get a *ance ( fl[]+4 ,! e>li] *]ry-trees 7 9 blossom by ?is "t1 & ,i l+]$ on1 mak+ /udies ( !m1 & le>n+ ,japanese words & ways f ,o ,nao ,san1 a "y lady ab\t twelve ye>s old1 :o _h appo9t$ h]self my special att5dant & protector at ! ,kiku-sui ,hotel4 ,"o night at ! !atre ,i saw a mod]n f>ce1 ) a policeman1 an old-fa%ion$ ,japanese g5tleman1 a ,*9aman1 & an ,engli%man z ! comic *>act]s4 ,!y 7 ridicul\s & amus+1 b :5 all ! e>li] incid5ts ( ! piece 7 n>rat$ ) consci5ti\s realism 9 evid5ce be=e a magi/rate ! ?+ became monoton\s1 & /ruck me z faulty 9 dramatic con/ruction4 ,?is 0 ! only !atre ,i saw 9 ,japan 9 :i* !y _h disc>d$ ! or*e/ra & *orus & o!r traditions ( ! old /age4 ,!re is a mode/ little temple opposite ,kobkuji1 :i* is visit$ by mo/ ( ! pilgrims to ,n>a2 9 its c\rt-y>d is a pile ( /ones f :i* a /ream ( wat] fl[s1 f$ by ! te>s ( ! "m ( ,sankat*u1 a sacrilegi\s man :o kill$ "s ( ! sacr$ de]1 :o 0 kill$ himself 9 consequ5ce1 & buri$ "h by h]4 ,day aft] day gr\ps ( visitors /& by ! f\nta91 li/5+ int5tly to ! guide :o tells !m ! pa!tic /ory1 & give _! pray]s & a few copp]s to h] memory4 ,! family affections are /rong 9 ,japan1 & ! love betwe5 p>5ts & *ildr51 & among ! *ildr5 !mselves1 is always pleasant to see4 ,! little ones are nev] slapp$ or %ak5 or pull$ ab\t r\ghly2 y may w&] ?r\gh ! /reets = days )\t he>+ a *ild cry1 nor d !y (t5 qu>rel 9 _! play4 ,b x is possible to g too f>1 ev5 9 filial piety4 ,!re 0 a murd] trial :ile ,i 0 9 ! c\ntry1 & by ! evid5ce x appe>$ t ! prison]'s "m 0 bl9d1 t ! doctor _h prescrib$ ! application ( a w>m human liv]1 & t he1 z he c\ld f9d no o!r way to get ! rem$y1 _h kill$ 8 wife 9 ord] to re/ore 8 "m's sight4 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,well ,,( ,,sankat*u1 ,,n>a ,9 mo/ =ms ( ,japanese art ! te*nique :i* is admir$ by native connoisseurs1 & ! associations connect$ ) ! subject repres5t$1 c only be und]/ood by ^? :o h /udi$ ,japanese me?ods & traditions1 b ! old wood5 /atu>y has m 9 common ) ,we/]n art1 & (t5 rea*es a high po9t ( realism4 ,9 ! religi\s figures c]ta9 traditions _h to be foll[$1 & 9 look+ at ^! ?is fact has to be rememb]$2 ! exagg]at$ anatomy1 unnaturally fi]ce expressions1 & arbitr>y numb] ( limbs (t5 disguise _! true m]its2 b 9 ! portrait figures ( daimios1 prie/s1 & abbots ! treatm5t is bo? simple & dignifi$4 ,mr4 ,tak5\*i1 a sculptor to :om ,i _h lett]s1 0 mak+ admirable copies ( ! pr9cipal sculptures at ,kobkuji1 :i* 7 to be exhibit$ at ,*icago1 & aft]w>ds add$ to ! collection ( ! ,f9e ,art ,museum 9 ,u5o ,p>k1 ,tky4 ,among ! old ma/]s1 ,unkei1 a sculptor ( ! twelf? c5tury1 is p]haps ! mo/ notewor?y2 !re is a m5dicant ascetic by him 9 ! ,hall ( ! ,?irty-?ree ,?\s& ,kwannon at ,kyoto1 a lean old man1 clad only 9 a few rags1 re/+ on 8 /aff & hold+ out 8 left h& = alms1 :i* might rank ) ! "w ( ,rod94 ,on ! #be? ( ,april ! *]ry-trees 7 9 full fl[]1 & ,i left ,n>a = ,yo%9o1 a village at ! foot ( ,m\nt ,om9e1 9 ,yamato1 :i* has = c5turies be5 not$ = its *]ry groves4 ,"h ! cult ( ! *]ry blossom has its headqu>t]s1 & dur+ ! t5 days or s :i* ! blossoms la/ ! little t[n is cr[d$ ) visitors4 ,i 0 too late to see ! place 9 its full glory2 x /&s at "s height above ! sea1 & ,i consequ5tly imag9$ t ! fl[]s w\ld be lat] ?an ^? at ,n>a1 b ! *]ry :i* gr[s !re 9 su* quantities is an e>ly species1 & ?ree days ( w9d & ra9 _h cov]$ ! gr\nd ) p9k petals & left v few ( !m on ! trees 9 ! celebrat$ groves4 ,=tunately !re 7 /ill "s fl[]y trees to be f\nd 9 g>d5s & %elt]$ corn]s1 & at ?is "t ( ye> x w\ld be impossible to settle d[n 9 a ,japanese village )\t f9d+ pl5ty ( subjects to pa9t4 ,! *]ry 9 ! ,yo%9o groves has a s+le fl[]1 pale p9k 9 color2 ?is is foll[$ by ano!r ,illu/ration3 ,,*]ry ,,blossoms ,,9 ,,! ,,ra91 ,,n>a k9d ) :ite blossoms1 m l ! ,european species4 ,bo? ( ^! are wild1 & f !m ! ,japanese g>d5]s h rais$ _m v>ieties1 d\ble & s+le fl[]$1 "s ) ! gr[? ( ! weep+-will[1 & o!rs ) a spread+ habit4 ,! fl[]s v>y 9 color f :ite to light crimson1 & ,i notic$ "s "y trees ) l>ge d\ble blossoms :i* 7 pale yell[ ) a p9k flu% on ! out] petals1 l a delicate tea-rose4 ,illu/ration3 ,,s>a-,,hiki-,,saka1 ,,ne> ,,yo%9o--,,lat] ,,*]ries ,at ! ,tatsumi-ya1 j by ! rema9s ( ! huge bronze torii1 :i*1 until x 0 bl[n d[n by a hurricane1 =m$ ! entrance to ! ma9 /reet1 ,i f\nd a little suite ( rooms built 9 ! g>d5 away f ! re/ ( ! h\se1 & at once engag$ !m1 9 happy anticipation ( quiet nights4 ,^! isolat$ rooms h "s disadvantages1 su* z hav+ to get to ! ba? & back on wet nights1 b a v %ort acqua9tance ) life 9 a tea-h\se makes ! travell] disreg>d su* trifl+ inconv5i5ces = ! c]ta9ty ( peaceful sleep4 ,! ,japanese w&]]s usually f9i% _! day's j\rney ab\t five 9 ! aft]noon1 &1 aft] ! prelim9>y cup ( tea1 disc>d _! travel-/a9$ clo!s = ! clean kimono :i* e well-regulat$ tea-h\se supplies to its gue/s1 !n ba! 9 wat] z ne> ! boil+-po9t z possible1 eat _! d9n]1 sit talk+ & smok+ till midnight1 snore till five o'clock 9 ! morn+1 :5 ! clatt] ( tak+ d[n %utt]s beg9s1 & ! elaborate bus9ess ( too?-clean+ & tongue-scrap+1 ) an accompanim5t ( complex noises sugge/+ seasickness 9 its wor/ /ages1 s x is n till !y h dep>t$ at six or sev5 o'clock t a light sleep] gets mu* *ance4 ,9 ! daytime ! tea-h\se is des]t$1 except by ! proprietor1 :o sits 9 ! front room & does 8 acc\nts1 & by ! little s]vant-girls1 :o1 ) _! heads ti$ up 9 t[els1 kimono tuck$ into _! obi1 & sleeves fa/5$ back1 %[+ a good deal ( r\nd br[n leg & arm1 busily sweep & du/ ! rooms 9 prep>ation = ! new set ( visitors :o w arrive 9 ! ev5+4 ,! ?9 slid+ p>titions w\ld be little b> to s\nd ev5 if !y rea*$ to ! top ( ! room1 & above !m !re is g5]ally a foot or s ( op5 wood-"w1 :i* all[s free v5tilation & conv]sation betwe5 ! diff]5t ap>tm5ts4 ,privacy1 z we und]/& x1 is no "p ( ! s*eme ( a ,japanese tea-h\se4 ,real fre% air f outside is v difficult to get at night4 ,dur+ ! hot wea!r ,i 0 always c>eful to exam9e ! fa/5+s ( ! wood5 %utt]s ) :i*1 aft] d>k1 e h\se is enclos$ l a box1 s t ,i c\ld surreptiti\sly op5 a crack opposite my room1 al?\gh by s do+ ,i 0 disobey+ ! ,illu/ration3 ,,*]ry ,,& ,,late ,,plum1 ,,tema-,,*o1 ,,ne> ,,n>a police regulations4 ,^! %utt]s d n keep out ! noise ( ! wat*man1 :o all night long w&]s r\nd & knocks two blocks ( wood toge!r1 j to let burgl>s "k t he is on ! look\t4 ,9 ^! qu>t]s ,i sp5t a week or s1 pa9t+ all day :5 ! wea!r w\ld all[ me1 & 9 ! ev5+ /ruggl+ ) ! language & gambl+ = beans ) ! family & ! s]vant-girls1 :o play$ v+t-et-un 7ni ju i*i7 ) su* ke5ness & discretion t ,i 0 g5]ally made a bankrupt1 ) mu* laught] & clapp+ ( h&s1 q e>ly 9 ! game1 & _h to be set up aga9 by g5]al contribution4 ,ev]y?+ 9 ,yo%9o is r$ol5t ( ! *]ry2 ! p9k & :ite cakes br\ght 9 ) ! tea are 9 ! %ape ( its blossoms1 & a conv5tional =m ( x is pa9t$ on e lant]n & pr9t$ on e scrap ( pap] 9 ! place4 ,! %ops sell pres]v$ *]ry fl[]s = mak+ tea1 & visitors to ! tea-h\ses & temples are giv5 maps ( ! di/rict--or1 r1 broad %eets r\ghly pr9t$ 9 colors1 n exactly a map or a picture--on :i* e *]ry grove is depict$ 9 p9k4 ,& all ?is is simply en?usiasm = its beauty & its associations1 = ! trees be> no fruit wor?y ( ! "n4 ,!re is an old ,japanese say+1 8,:at ! *]ry blossom is among fl[]s1 ! w>rior is among m540 ,i 0 rem9d$ con/antly ( a s5t5ce :i* a fri5d _h writt5 9 "o ( my books1 8,take pa9s to enc\rage ! beautiful1 = ! useful enc\rages itself40 ,x is difficult = an outsid] to det]m9e h[ mu* ( ?is is g5u9e en?usiasm & h[ mu* is cu/om or a traditional /heticism2 b x really matt]s little4 ,t ! popul> idea ( a holiday %\ld be to w&] ab\t 9 ! op5 air1 visit+ hi/oric places1 & gaz+ at ! f9e/ l&scapes & ! fl[]s 9 _! seasons1 indicates a high level ( true civilization1 & ! cu/om1 if x be only cu/om1 proves ! ref9em5t ( ! p :o orig9at$ & adh]e to x4 ,! village /reet ( ,yo%9o w9ds up a spur ( ! hills1 pass+ _m temples & little hamlets1 & gradually becomes a /eep & /ony m\nta9 pa?1 :i* asc5ds to ,m\nt ,om9e4 ,! great tracks ( =e/ provide occupation = mo/ ( ! p 9 ?is di/rict2 z ,i sket*$ by ! road-side /r+s ( m5 & wom5 7 con/antly pass+1 c>ry+ d[n heavy loads ( wood & *>coal f ! hills1 & 9 front ( _m ( ! cottages mat*-wood 0 spread out on mats to dry4 ,x 0 difficult to und]/& h[ x c\ld ev] get dry1 = all ! mi/s ( ,japan seem$ to collect r\nd ^! m\nta9s & =e/s2 ! l&scape 0 r>ely free f !m1 & con/antly look$ l a ,japanese draw+1 all vague & :ite 9 ! valleys1 ) ridges ( hill & fr+es ( p9e %[+ 9 %>p cle> l9es "o beh9d ! o!r4 ,x is a w>m climate too1 & ev]y?+ gr[s luxuriantly4 ,!re are great clumps ( bamboo1 enorm\s azalea bu%es1 & ?ick und]gr[?s ( palmetto4 ,on ! road-side banks 9 ?is la/ week ( ,april1 !re 7 f]ns j unroll+1 ! fronds ( maid5hair 7,adiantum p$atum7 all bright-r$ "y %oots ( lily & or*id & ,solomon's-seal1 & a lovely iris 7,i4 japonica71 ) _m lav5d]-color$ fl[]s on a bran*+ /alk1 ea* out] petal m>k$ ) d>k purple l9es1 & decorat$ ) a little horn ( brilliant orange4 ,! g>d5s ( tea-h\ses & temples 7 gay ) azalea1 camellia1 magnolia1 & *]ry1 & ) ! "y leaves ( maple & &rom$a1 z bright z any fl[]s4 ,dur+ a great "p ( ! ye> ^! g>d5s h b few blooms--!y are only an arrangem5t ( gre5s & grays--b 9 ! spr+ no am\nt ( clipp+ & tra9+ c prev5t ! %rubs f blossom+4 ,! *]ry-trees & magnolias are let ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,buddhi/ ,,temple ,,at ,,yo%9o--,,d\ble-,,fl[]$ ,,*]ry ,,& ,,magnolia gr[ z !y *oose1 b ! o!rs are trimm$ into m or less =mal %apes1 consid]$ suitable to ! species1 or help+ ! c>efully /udi$ arrangem5t ( =ms1 :i* is ! ideal ( a ,japanese g>d5]4 ,!re are no b$s = fl[]s4 ,9 ! little ponds ! irises & lotus bloom1 & 9 odd corn]s !re may be clumps ( lilies1 *rysan!mums1 or o!r plants1 b ^! are m]e accid5ts3 ! design]'s aim is a composition ( rocks1 %rubs1 /one lant]ns1 ponds1 & bridges1 :i* w look ! same 9 its g5]al features all ! ye> r\nd1 & con=m to e/abli%$ rules4 ,"o ( my ,japanese fri5ds told me1 z an in/ance ( ! complexity ( ! l&scape-g>d5]'s art1 t if a c]ta9 %rub 7 us$ x w\ld be necess>y to place ne> x a /one f ,tosa1 ! di/ant prov9ce :]e x commonly gr[s4 ,! decorative g>d5 is q di/9ct f ! fl[] g>d51 :]e ! f9e v>ieties ( iris1 pony1 & *rysan!mum1 = :i* ,japan is fam\s1 are gr[n by pr(essional flori/s1 or by ri* amateurs :o c devote a special place to _! culture4 ,on ! #c;d ( ,may my ho/ at ! ,ta-tsumiya br\ght me "s pony fl[]s arrang$ 9 an old bronze vase4 ,?is %[$ me x 0 "t to move on to ,hase1 :]e !re is a great display ( !m1 s next morn+ ,i made an e>ly />t = a long j9rick%a ride ?r\gh ! hills ( ,yamato4 ,my baggage & pa9t+ mat]ials c\ld n be pack$ 9 less ?an two kuruma1 two m 7 necess>y = my boy & myself1 & ! f\r vehicles1 ) two m5 draw+ ea*1 made an impos+ procession z we bump$ d[n ! /eep village /reet4 ,! :ole /aff ( ! ,tatsumi-ya _h turn$ out to say good-bye2 !re 0 a r[ ( little girls kneel+ on ! floor1 _! noses on ! matt+ & _! br[n h&s plac$ flat1 palms d[nw>d1 9 front ( _! heads1 & ! l&lord1 aft] giv+ me ! usual pres5ts & a receipt = my 8*adai0--! p>t+ tip--insi/$ on accompany+ me to ! end ( ! t[n4 ,illu/ration3 ,,cross+ ,,! ,,f]ry ,,at ,,muda1 ,,on ,,! ,,yo%9o-,,gawa ,our r\te = two or ?ree miles1 z f> z ! riv] ,yo%9o-gawa1 0 ! same t ,i _h climb$ on my way up2 b n9e days _h made a great diff]5ce 9 its aspect4 ,!n _m ( ! trees 7 /ill b>e2 n[ !y 7 cov]$ ) spr+ leaves4 ,aft] f]ry+ ov] to ,muda we turn$ nor?w>ds1 & a good road l$ u by l[ passes & ?r\gh ! gr& =e/s at ! foot ( ,m\nt ,tonom9e d[n to ,tosa 9 ! ,yamato ,valley4 ,j9rick%a travell+ is v pleasant :5 ! roads are good1 ! wea!r f9e1 & ! m5 active2 !re is no noise ( horses' ho(s to di/urb ! m9d1 ! /raw-s&all$ feet ( ! coolies h>dly make a s\nd1 nor is y\r att5tion di/ract$ f ! l&scape by hav+ to drive2 & ! frequ5t %ort halts at way-side tea-h\ses give y a *ance ( air+ y\r few phrases ( ,japanese & see+ ! ways ( ! p4 ,my lun* at ,tosa 0 ,illu/ration3 ,,mi ,,komori ,,j9ja1 ,a ,,%9to ,,temple ,,ne> ,,yo%9o enliv5$ by two *>m+ waitresses1 :o _h evid5tly se5 b few =eign]s1 & :o 7 mu* int]e/$ 9 me & my belong+s4 ,my wat*1 mat*-box1 cig>ette-case1 & o!r small articles _h to be exam9$1 talk$ ov]1 & %[n to ! re/ ( ! h\sehold1 & ,i 0 pli$ ) que/ions ab\t my age1 my family1 & o!r p]sonal matt]s1 z ,japanese etiquette prescribes4 ,?is valley ( ,yamato is ! e>lie/ hi/oric home ( ! pres5t race2 9 x !re are _m tumuli :i* m>k ! burial-places ( leg5d>y emp]ors1 includ+ t ( ,jimmu ,t5no1 ! fir/ ( all1 & x is !re=e consid]$ sacr$ gr\nd by ! ance/or-lov+ ,japanese4 ,e ye> cr[ds ( pilgrims walk ov] ! di/rict1 mak+ _! 8,yamato-meguri10 or t\r ( ! holy places ( ,yamato1 & !re\t ! innkeep]s suck no small advantage4 ,hase 0 full ( !m1 & e tea-h\se cramm$2 9 ! room next m9e at lea/ a doz5 mu/ h slept1 & ,i ?\ght myself lucky to get a place to myself4 ,!re 7 /ill "s h\rs ( daylight left aft] ,i _h settl$ d[n 9 my qu>t]s1 s ,i w&]$ up ! /reet & climb$ ! long flight ( /eps to ! great temple ( ,kwannon4 ,on ea* side ( ! /eps small b$s 7 built up1 & 9 ^! ! ponies grew1 & _! big fl[]s1 rang+ 9 color f :ite to d>k purple1 gl[$ 9 ! aft]noon light aga9/ a backgr\nd ( gray /one lant]ns4 ,! temple is built on a hill-side1 l ,ni-gwatsu-d at ,n>a & _m o!r ,buddhi/ temples1 & x consi/s ( a wide v]&a fill$ ) inc5se-burn]s & votive pictures & bronze lant]ns1 & ( an inn] sanctu>y4 ,across ! entrance to ?is /&s an alt>1 & ov] x an op5+ 9 ! d>k purple curta9s all[s a glimpse ( ! great gold figure ( ,kwannon1 ne>ly ?irty feet high1 h] face1 ) its expression ( calm b5efic5ce1 only j di/+ui%able by ! light ( a few dim lamps 9 ! gloom ( ! w9d[less %r9e4 ,beh9d ?is ma9 temple !re are v>i\s o!r build+s1 prie/s' h\ses & su* l1 & a little pond = ! sacr$ tortoises4 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,/reet1 ,,hase ,! ma9 /reet ( ,hase is cut up ) rivulets2 ! middle "o is us$ = all dome/ic purposes1 & at all h\rs y may see ! wom51 ) skirts & sleeves tuck$ up1 wa%+ _! clo!s or _! fi% & vegetables1 & ladl+ up wat] = ba?s & cook+ ) _! long-h&l$ wood5 dipp]s4 ,! side /reams turn small wat]-:eels1 :i* "w wood5 hamm]s = p\nd+ & clean+ ! rice--an important "p ( ! day's "w 9 e ,japanese village4 ,9 ! mo/ primitive places x is done ) a long-head$ wood5 mallet & ! /ump ( a tree holl[$ out = a mort>2 9 o!rs big wood5 hamm]s are fix$ on a pivot1 & are rais$ by /epp+ on ! o!r end ( ! h&le1 tread-mill fa%ion4 ,a m\nta9 brook1 ! p>5t ( ^! little /reams1 tumbles along close beh9d ! h\ses2 its banks are ov]hung ) ,illu/ration3 ,,&rom$a ,,bu%es ,,9 ,,kasuga ,,p>k1 ,,n>a bamboos1 & ! rocks at t season 7 cov]$ ) clumps ( lav5d] iris4 ,f ,atago-,yama1 a hill j across ! riv]1 ! view is f9e2 bel[ are ! flat1 gray ro(s ( ,hase1 & ! cul-de-sac 9 :i* x lies--bord]$ on ei!r side ) gre5 hills1 its w9d+s indicat$ by ! curves ( road & %9+ riv]1 its gre5 surface spott$ "h & !re ) gray hamlets--gradually op5s out into ! wid] ,yamato ,valley4 ,unebi-,yama1 :i* m>ks ! site ( ,jimmu ,t5no's mausoleum1 rises 9 ! c5tre ( ! pla91 & beyond x all is an enclos+ b>ri] ( cl\dy m\nta9s4 ,illu/ration3 ,,:ite ,,wi/>ia1 ,,hase-,,d]a ,a morn+'s j9rick%a ride took me back to my old qu>t]s at ,n>a1 & ,kwannon mu/ h rejoic$ at my dep>ture f ,hase-d]a1 = :ile ,i 0 !re mo/ ( ! prie/s & all ! acolytes sadly neglect$ h]3 !y sp5t ! day look+ ov] my %\ld] or gaz+ op5-m\!d 9 my face4 ,?is 0 on ! #i? ( ,may1 & ,i 0 glad to f9d t ! wi/>ia 9 ,kasuga ,p>k 0 j 9 its glory4 ,! masses ( fl[]s turn$ ! l[] trees into big b\quets ( pale mauve1 & seem$ to drip l f\nta9s f ! tall oaks & cryptom]ias2 & to add to ! beauty1 all ! und]gr[? ( &rom$a _h put out its "y leaves 9 _m %ades ( color2 z ,*auc] says1 8,"s v r$1 & "s a glad light gre540 ,"o glade p>ticul>ly attract$ me3 a t9y cle> /ream w\nd along ?r\gh ! brilliant grasses1 & ! trees :i* cov]$ ! /eep banks on ea* side ( ?is little mead[ 7 completely ov]gr[n ) ! v9es1 & smo!r$ ) _! blossoms4 ,?is too 0 a quiet spot1 out ( ! track ( t\ri/s & pilgrims1 & x 0 a bless$ relief to "w )\t a gaz+ cr[d2 ! only pass]s 7 a few wom5 & *ildr5 collect+ firewood or ga!r+ ! "y f]n %oots :i* 7 spr\t+ ?r\gh ! grass4 ,^! are cut j z !y beg9 to unroll1 & :5 !y are boil$ & flavor$ ) soy1 !y are really q good to eat1 at lea/ "o ?9ks s 9 ,japan4 ,! wi/>ia blossoms 7 almo/ gone :5 ,i decid$ t ?\gh !re 0 /ill pl5ty to be done 9 ,n>a1 x w\ld be bett] to try "s new sket*+-gr\nd1 & hav+ he>d ( a tea-h\se ) a f9e old g>d5 at ,hikone1 on ! %ore ( ,lake ,biwa1 ,i det]m9$ to move on !re = my next v5ture4 ,i pack$ all my belong+s1 & made arrangem5ts = ! j\rney next morn+1 & !n walk$ once m r\nd ! p>k & ! temples1 gaz+ regretfully at all ! good ?+s :i* /ill rema9$ to be sket*$1 & climb$ ,mikasa ,yama1 a /eep grassy hill beh9d ! p>k1 :i* on f9e days is dott$ all ov] ) picnic p>ties4 ,f its summit !re is a great view ov] ! pla9s r\nd ,n>a1 ) ! ,kizugawa1 a good ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,tall ,,wi/>ia1 ,,kasuga ,,p>k1 ,,n>a broad /ream1 w9d+ ?r\gh !m4 ,! grassy ridges & ! few w9d-beat5 p9es :i* gr[ on !m made a f9e =egr\nd1 & ! little gre5 gullies 7 spott$ ) l[ azalea bu%es cov]$ ) flame-color$ fl[]s4 ,x 0 too good to leave1 & ,i ought to h unpack$ aga9 & prolong$ my /ay = a few days2 b laz9ess prevail$1 ! bore ( repack+ seem$ intol]able1 & to my la/+ remorse ?is subject rema9$ unpa9t$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,notes ,,at ,,muda ,illu/ration3 ,,badge ,,( ,,! ,,kiku-,,sui-,,ya ,,e>ly ,,summ] ,,9 ,,japan ,illu/ration3 ,,iris ,,japonica ,,e>ly ,,summ] ,,9 ,,japan ,illu/ration ,x is difficult n[adays to imag9e h[ ! ,japanese manag$ to live )\t tea2 ev]ybody dr9ks x at all h\rs ( ! day1 & ! poore/ p r>ely get a *ance ( dr9k+ any?+ /rong]1 & yet x is1 z ?+s w5t 9 old ,japan1 a comp>atively rec5t introduction4 ,tea 0 introduc$ ) ,buddhism f ,*9a1 & ?\gh "s plants 7 br\ght z e>ly z ! n9? c5tury1 x 0 n mu* gr[n until ! end ( ! twelf?4 ,d>uma1 an ,indian sa9t ( ! six? c5tury1 (t5 repres5t$ 9 ,japanese art ei!r cross+ ! ocean on a re$1 or sitt+ a monum5t ( pati5ce1 ) 8 h&s 9 8 sleeves1 0 ! fa!r ( ! tea-plant4 ,aft] ye>s ( sleepless wat*+ & pray] he sudd5ly got dr[sy1 & at la/ 8 eyelids clos$ & he peacefully slept4 ,:5 he awoke he 0 s a%am$ ( ?is p>donable weakness t he cut (f ! (f5d+ eyelids & ?rew !m on ! gr\nd1 :]e !y in/antly took root & spr\t$ into ! %rub :i* has ev] s9ce _h p[] to keep ! _w awake4 ,illu/ration3 ,,c>ry+ ,,home ,,tea ,,leaves1 ,,ne> ,,uji ,9 ! twelf? c5tury ,kyoto 0 ! c5tre ( life 9 ,japan1 & ! di/rict ( ,uji1 betwe5 t city & ,n>a1 has always kept its reputation = produc+ ! f9e/ tea4 ,! mo/ valuable leaves are ^? on ! "y spr+ %oots1 & :5 ,i pass$ ?r\gh on ! #ai? ( ,may ^! 7 j be+ ga!r$ & dri$4 ,mo/ ( ! %rubs gr[ 9 ! op5 air )\t any protection1 ev]gre5 bu%es f two to ?ree feet high1 & among !m ! wom5 & *ildr5 7 at "w4 ,z !y squatt$ by ! plants1 fill+ _! baskets1 v little ( !m 0 visible1 b _! big grass hats %one 9 ! sun1 look+ l a crop ( gigantic mu%rooms4 ,! ,japanese 8kasa0 is made ( v>i\s light mat]ials--/raw1 split bamboo1 ru%es1 or %av+s ( deal2 x is us$1 l an umbrella ti$ to ! head1 z a protection aga9/ sun & ra92 9 ! ev5+ or on cl\dy days x is laid aside1 & ! labor]s we> only _! cotton k]*ief1 spread out l a hood1 or ti$ 9 a b& r\nd _! br[s4 ,?\gh x _c be call$ ! 8va/ hat ! ,graces made10 x is1 nev]!less1 v effective 9 ! l&scape1 & ! v>iations ( its outl9e 9 diff]5t positions indicate happily ! action ( its we>]4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,plantation ,,cov]$ ,,) ,,matt+ ,,ne> ,,uji ,! plants :i* produce ! mo/ exp5sive teas1 co/+ f six to eight doll>s a p\nd1 are c>efully protect$ by mats /ret*$ on a framework ( bamboo1 s t ! t5d] leaves may nei!r be scor*$ by ! sun nor torn by ! heavy ra9s1 & !re are acres ( !m s enclos$4 ,x 0 a curi\s ?+ to look d[n f a little hill-top on a sea ( matt+ :i* fill$ ! :ole valley f "o p9e-clad hill to ano!r1 its surface only brok5 by ! ends ( ! support+ poles & by ! ?at*$ ro(s ( ! dry+-h\ses :i* /uck up "h & !re l little isl&s4 ,und]nea? ! mats wom5 7 pick+1 & 9 e wayside cottage ^? :o 7 n 9 ! fields 7 busily sort+ & clean+ ! leaves4 ,!re are no l>ge factories or fir+-h\ses2 ea* family makes its own br& ( tea1 labell+ x ) "s fanciful or poetic "n1 su* z 8jewell$ dew40 ,! road ?r\gh ?is f]tile di/rict crosses two l>ge riv]s1 ! ,kisugawa & ,ujikawa1 & _m small] /reams4 ,!y are all c>efully bank$ 91 & ! wat] is c>ri$ :]e x is ne$$ by endless dit*es & *annels4 ,dur+ ! heavy ra9s ^! rivulets become rag+ torr5ts1 & w\ld soon cov] ! c\ntry ) /ones & gravel if !y 7 n kept "u control2 ! quantity ( dbris !y br+ f ! m\nta9s is s great t1 in/ead ( be+ d[n 9 a holl[1 !y are rais$ above ! re/ ( ! c\ntry1 & y h to g up-hill to =d !m4 ,be=e gett+ into ! long & un9t]e/+ suburbs ( ,kyoto !re are "s l>ge ponds on ei!r side ( ! way1 will[s & tall re$s gr[+ on _! banks1 & 9 e little creek fi%]m5 ) _! boats & nets1 all v picturesque & pa9table4 ,s 0 ! ,nesan at ! ,tatsu-ya1 :o :5 ,i halt$ = lun* at once l$ me r\nd to ! pr9cipal room at ! back ( ! h\se 7! be/ rooms & ! g>d5s are usually at ! back71 & %[$ me h] tame gold & silv] c>p1 :i* came to be f$ :5 %e clapp$ h] h&s4 ,x 0 a t9y little ,illu/ration3 ,,pond ,,9 ,,! ,,g>d5 ,,( ,,raku-,,raku-,,tei1 ,,hikone g>d51 n m ?an tw5ty-five feet squ>e1 b x _h its pond & bridge1 & m\nta9 ( rock1 & old p9e-tree1 l ! be/ ( !m4 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,ca/le ,,at ,,hikone ,i rea*$ ,hikone by rail ! same ev5+1 & took up my qu>t]s at ! ,raku-raku-tei tea-h\se1 a great rambl+ place1 ) a l>ge g>d5 & suites ( rooms to suit all ta/es4 ,i 0 %[n into a gorge\s ap>tm5t ) gold scre5s1 its floor rais$ above ! level ( ! re/ ( ! h\se1 :i* no d\bt 0 int5d$ = great p1 :o 9 ! old days mu/ (t5 h come "h to see ! ,daimio1 ,ii ,kamon no ,kami2 b ,i felt ,i c\ld n live up to ?is1 & aft] view+ ! rooms ov]look+ ! lake1 & ^? built on piles ov] ! fi%-pond1 ,i select$ "s t look$ out into ! g>d51 ) a trellis ( wi/>ia j 9 front "u :i* ! purple trails ( blossom ne>ly a y>d long 7 /ill hang+4 ,!re are no cr[ds ( ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,ca/le ,,at ,,nagoya1 ,,field ,,( ,,iris ,,9 ,,! ,,=egr\nd visitors n[1 & ! f9e old g>d5 looks r tangl$ & neglect$1 ) bu%es untrimm$ & pa?s ov]gr[n ) we$s4 ,on a /eep rocky hill close by is ! ca/le :]e ! ,daimio =m]ly liv$2 ! hill is on "o side protect$ by ! lake1 & on ! o!rs by a wide moat1 cross$ by picturesque wood5 bridges1 & ! roads :i* lead to ! plateau at ! top are def5d$ by m bridges ov] dry moats1 gate-h\ses1 & zigzag walls ( l>ge1 well-fitt$ /ones4 ,! ar*itecture ( all ^! ca/les is v mu* alike1 & ?\gh !re are n _m ( !m n[ /&+1 !y mu/ h ab\nd$ 9 ! feudal times4 ,! f9e/ ,i saw 0 t at ,nagoya2 x 0 a good deal %ak5 by ! la/ great e>?quake1 b is /ill q s\nd1 & ! great gold dolph9s on its bronze ro( %9e high above ! re/ ( ! city4 ,9 ! %ort p]iod aft] ! introduction ( ,we/]n ideas1 :5 ! craze = ?+s ,european ,illu/ration3 ,,an ,,old ,,ca/le ,,moat1 ,,aka%i1 ,,ne> ,k,,be l$ to _m acts ( v&alism1 mo/ ( !m 7 pull$ d[n1 & ?is "o at ,hikone 0 only j sav$ f de/ruction by ! int]v5tion ( ! ,emp]or2 n[ t a reaction has set 91 & ! ,japanese (ficial m9d is n s eag] to =get ! pa/ & oblit]ate its relics1 !y are likely to be c>efully pres]v$4 ,all ( !m h a massive f\ndation ( l>ge /ones1 n squ>$ except at ! angles1 b c>efully trimm$ & fitt$ toge!r )\t mort>2 & ! sup]/ructure is ( timb] & pla/]1 ) ro(s & eaves ( heavy tiles or metal4 ,! moats1 ov]hung ) p9es & fill$ ) lotus dur+ ! summ] mon?s1 are always int]e/+4 ,x 0 a blaz+ hot day :5 ,i walk$ ,illu/ration3 ,,fields ,,ne> ,,lake ,,biwa up & exam9$ ! ca/le2 !re 0 n a cl\d 9 ! sky1 & ,lake ,biwa & its m\nta9s lay /ill & cle> & s(t 9 ! delicate blue haze :i* seems to be _! own peculi> prop]ty4 ,! fields outside ! t[n 7 cov]$ ) a bright p9k fl[] l a clov]1 :i* is n us$ = fodd]1 z !re are h>dly any animals to fe$1 b is dug 9 to improve ! l& = ! rice1 & ?is blaze ( color consol$ me = n f9d+ z _m azaleas z ,i expect$4 ,i set to "w at a /udy ( x1 & s5t my boy ,matsuba1 :o1 ) ! quickness ( 8 race1 q und]/ood ! k9d ( ?+ ,i 0 look+ =1 to se>* ! neighborhood = azalea bu%es4 ,he came back e>ly 9 ! aft]noon to tell me t he _h n be5 successful1 b t !re 7 "s races go+ on 9 ! t[n1 s we w&]$ up1 & e/abli%$ ourselves 9 a room j ov] ! />t+-po/4 ,! c\rse 0 ab\t two hundr$ & fifty y>ds along ! pebbly b$ ( a dry riv]1 & all ! arrangem5ts 7 v unlike ^? ( a ,european racec\rse4 ,two upright po/s ( bamboo /ood ab\t five y>ds ap>t1 ) a /\t pole slung betwe5 !m2 ! vici\s little ponies 7 br\ght along by two grooms1 ea* hold+ a long cord fa/5$ to ! bridle1 & ) a good deal ( %ov+ & hu/l+ 7 w$g$ 91 %\ld] to %\ld]1 betwe5 ?is pole & ano!r beh9d !m at ab\t ! height ( _! hocks4 ,_! heads 7 pull$ ov] ! front pole1 & held firmly by a groom ) a long runn+ cord ?r\gh ! bridle r+s1 :ile ! jockeys 7 fully occupi$ 9 prev5t+ ! little brutes f /rik+ ea* o!r ) _! =e & h9d legs4 ,mean:ile ! spectators1 :o _h kept at a respectful di/ance until ! ponies 7 safely fix$1 cr[d$ up beh9d !m1 pull+ _! tails & :ack+ !m ) bamboos4 ,! />t] !n appe>$1 made a few rem>ks1 & beat a small drum1 ^u :i* ! m5 9 *>ge ( ! pulleys dropp$ ! front pole1 ! grooms slipp$ _! ropes out ( ! bridle r+s & jump$ aside1 & ! ponies scrambl$ (f z be/ !y c\ld4 ,! jockeys rode )\t saddles or /irrups1 ) _! great toes hit*$ into a surc+le1 & directly !y 7 (f !y dropp$ ! re9s1 held _! left h&s 9 ! air1 & pli$ _! :ips ) ! "r until !y _h pass$ ! w9n+-po/4 ,x 0 j a scurry1 ) no "t = sci5tific rid+1 &1 z f> z ,i c\ld see1 ! pony :o got ov] ! pole be/ always won4 ,o ,kazu ,san1 my waitress at ! ,raku-raku-tei1 0 help+ at ! tea-h\se1 & kept me suppli$ ) tea & cakes1 & ,i /ay$ wat*+ ! races & ! spectators1 & be+ wat*$ by !m1 until ! dusk put a /op to sport4 ,i left too soon1 = my boy told me t !re 0 a fight aft]w>ds ab\t a bet2 x 0 ! only fight ,i he>d ( :ile ,i ,illu/ration3 ,o ,,kazu ,,san 0 9 ,japan1 & ,i %\ld h lik$ to see x4 ,two days ( heavy ra9 turn$ ! c\rse into a riv] once m1 s t ! heats 7 nev] decid$4 ,"s few days aft]1 ,matsuba told me t !re 0 a 8,japanese man's circus0 9 ! t[n4 ,x 0 n 9 ! lea/ l a circus2 x 0 a !atrical p]=mance 9 :i* all ! memb]s ( ! company1 :o 9 ?is tr\pe 7 wom51 7 m\nt$ on horseback4 ,!re 0 a small /age1 ) a set sc5e at ! back1 & 9 front ( x1 on ! same level z ! spectators1 a space ( b>e e>? on :i* ! action took place4 ,! play consi/$ mo/ly ( combats2 ! swords & o!r necess>y prop]ties 7 br\ght 9 by att5dants1 & plac$ on a high /& :]e !y c\ld be easily rea*$ by ! actors1 & ! horses 7 !n l$ into position1 & held !re :ile ! fight+ w5t on4 ,none ( ! p]=m]s fell (f1 b beyond ?is !re 0 no horseman%ip2 !y c\ld n ev5 get _! /e$s on & (f ! /age )\t ! help ( a groom4 ,my ?\ghts recurr$ to ano!r travell+ !atre1 at ,/rat=d-on-,avon1 :]e ,i saw a /irr+ drama call$ ,tel-el-,kebir1 or ! ,bomb>dm5t ( ,alex&ria1 9 :i* ,sir ,beau*amp ,seym\r _h a h&-to-h& conflict ) ,arabi ,pa%a4 ,mr4 ,lawr5ce1 ! spirit$ actor-manag]1 in=m$ me aft]w>ds1 :5 ,i congratulat$ him on ! p]=mance1 t x 0 always popul>1 & t he _h play$ x tw5ty-?ree times 9 "o day at ,nott+ham ,goose-,fair4 ,9 reply to my objection t x took at lea/ an h\r1 he said t ( c\rse !y cut ! dialogue1 & only _h ! combats & ! bomb>dm5t4 ,i rememb]$1 too1 8 rem>ks :5 call$ be=e ! curta9 at ! end ( 8 season2 he enl>g$ on ! dignity ( ! actor's pr(ession1 & h[ ess5tial x 0 t he %\ld be a g5tleman1 say+1 9 conclusion2 8#8,ow1 ,i h>sk1 c\ld a *imney-sweep 7if !re's a *imney-sweep pres5t ,i beg 'is p>don71 b 'ow c\ld 'e act ! "p ( a pr9ce or a nobleman8 ',e c\ld n d x1 my fri5ds2 'e's n 'ad ! h$jucation40 ,illu/ration3 ,,prep>+ ,,! ,,rice-,,fields ,! f9e days at ?is season 7 p]fectly glori\s2 hot en\gh to give an inkl+ ( :at x w\ld be l 9 ! full blaze ( summ]1 & yet ) a ta/e ( spr+'s fre%ness left 9 ! air4 ,!y 7 int]sp]s$ ) too _m wet or unc]ta9 days1 b1 ) ! g>d5 close by1 ,i manag$ to wa/e v little "t4 ,! fir/ lotus leaves 7 j com+ up 9 ! ponds & ! irises blossom+ r\nd ! wat]'s edge1 ! azalea bu%es 7 cov]$ ) fl[]s1 & ! tips ( ! pale gre5 maple b\ghs 7 t+$ ) rosy p9k4 ,:5 ! p\r+ ra9 _h begun to drip ?r\gh my sket*+ umbrella1 & ,i 0 driv5 9-doors1 !re 0 no lack ( society4 ,o ,kazu ,san1 a pla9 little ?+ ) br[n velvet eyes1 & ! re/ ( ! girls 7 nev] tir$ ( look+ at my belong+s1 ?umb+ my sket*-books1 & ask+ me endless que/ions2 & ?\gh ,i 0 sometimes irritable1 _! good-humor 0 unlimit$4 ,?is unv>i$ good temp] is itself annoy+1 :5 ! =eign] feels t x is n ! result ( sympa?y1 b because he is reg>d$ z a /range animal1 n to be judg$ by ! rules :i* gov]n ! conduct ( civiliz$ p4 ,at la/ ,matsuba told me t he _h f\nd a place1 8top side10 ) pl5ty ( azaleas1 & rooms :]e ,i c\ld /ay4 ,x 0 a small ,buddhi/ temple call$ ,t5n5ji1 once v popul> b n[ almo/ des]t$1 :i* /ood on ! hill-side beyond ! rice l&s1 & some:at above ! sw>ms ( mosquitoes :i* haunt ! m>%y %ores & ! lagoons ( ,lake ,biwa4 ,ji means a ,buddhi/ temple--at lea/ ,illu/ration3 ,,my ,,rooms ,,at ,,t5n5ji ,illu/ration3 ,,buddha ,,& ,,8 ,,disciples1 ,,t5n5ji t is "o ( its mean+s--& t5n5 means 8produc$ by nature40 ,! "n itself sugge/$ peace & quietness & repose1 & ^! ,i f\nd 9 t delightful place1 always se5 9 my m9d ?r\gh a rosy haze ( azalea blossom4 ,a granite sign-po/ :]e ! little temple pa? turns (f f a track ?r\gh ! rice-fields tells all :o c read x t ! temple is d$icat$ to ! five hundr$ ,rakkan 7disciples ( ,buddha71 & _! gild$ & lacqu]$ effigies sit 9 long ti]s r\nd "o l>ge build+ )9 ! c\rt-y>d2 beyond ?is is ! ,hondo1 :]e ! pr9cipal alt>s are1 & :]e ! s]vices are p]=m$ at daybreak by ! old prie/ :o has sole *>ge ( ! e/abli%m5t4 ,my room 0 a little annex ( ! ,hondo1 q ap>t f ! liv+-rooms ( ! family1 & op5 on two sides to ! air4 ,! angle ( my v]&a project$ ov] ! fi%-pond1 & on ! "r & ! left /epp+-/ones l$ d[n f x into ! g>d51 a small pat* ( level gr\nd1 ) a p9e-clad hill-side ris+ %>ply beyond x4 ,j at ! foot ( ?is hill !re 0 a rocky projection1 cov]$ ) an und]gr[? ( azaleas1 & spott$ ) /atues ( ,buddha & 8 sixte5 pr9cipal foll[]s4 ,^! 7 rudely c>v$ ( ! natural /one2 ) _! gr[? ( li*5s & mosses !y look$ z old z ! rocks !mselves1 & 7 h>dly to be di/+ui%$ f !m at a little di/ance4 ,sev]al /ony zigzagg+ footpa?s1 m]e tracks ?r\gh ! bu%es & p9e-trees1 l$ to ! top ( ! ridge1 f :i* "o look$ d[n on f]tile valleys enclos$ by m p9e-clad ridges1 & to ! we/w>d on ! great %9+ pla9 ( ,lake ,biwa1 its lagoons1 isl&s1 & di/ant m\nta9s4 ,_m times ,i walk$ to ! top ( ?is hill1 sometimes 9 ! cle> brilliant moonlight1 :5 ! delicate p9ks & r$s ( ! azaleas 7 h>dly visible1 & only _! honeysuckle sc5t made me consci\s ( _! pres5ce1 & :5 all ! _w w\ld h be5 sil5t b = ! incessant *orus ( myriads ( frogs :i* came up f ! rice-fields bel[4 ,illu/ration3 ,,hikone ,,& ,,lake ,,biwa1 ,,f ,,! ,,hills ,,beh9d ,,t5n5ji ,9 ! daytime ! :ole ( ! wood 0 lively ) cicad1 :o kept up a con/ant & irritat+ clatt]1 b !n !re 0 ! delight ( f9d+ new fl[]s1 or mak+ ! acqua9tance ( old g>d5 fri5ds 9 _! own homes4 ,a little damp gully j beh9d ! bamboo grove 0 full ( deutzia bu%es 9 blossom1 & "u !m grew a clump ( pale p9k lilies 7,lilium kram]i71 :i* seem$ to me ! lovelie/ fl[]s ,i _h ev] se54 ,! prie/ at ,t5n5ji 0 s anxi\s to h "s ( my "w t ,i made a draw+ ( ^! = him2 x hangs among ! temple treasures1 & may be a surprise to "s w&]+ =eign]1 :o w little expect to f9d any ,european traces 9 su* an out-(-!-way spot4 ,! family1 consi/+ ( ,sok9 ! fa!r1 ,o ,%ige ,san ! "m1 & ,takaki1 a son employ$ 9 ! (fice ( police at ,hikone1 soon ,illu/ration3 ,,azaleas ,,on ,,! ,,rocks1 ,,t5n5ji ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,poem adopt$ me z a fri5d1 & did all !y c\ld to make me com=table4 ,takaki _h receiv$ a mod]n education 7!y tea* ,engli% 9 ! ,hikone s*ools1 z y f9d out f ! small boys1 :o %\t ,a ,b ,c aft] y 9 ! /reets72 b he _h n got beyond ! ^w 8,yes10 beg9n+ e s5t5ce ) x & !n laps+ into ,japanese4 ,we made _m excursions toge!r1 he1 ,matsuba1 & ,i1 /roll+ d[n to ! t[n aft] d9n] & look+ 9 at ! !atres & %ops4,a ,o ,%ige ,san 0 great at cook+1 & took delight 9 provid+ me ) new & /range =ms ( food e ev5+2 = breakfa/ & lun* ,i ate :at ,european food ,matsuba c\ld provide1 & z fl\r & :iskey c\ld be b\ght1 & a c[ 0 slaught]$ 9 ,hikone e ,saturday1 ,i did n d badly2 y c get ! necess>y su/5ance 9 a %ort] "t on =eign 8*[10 b :5 "w 0 ov] & ,i _h tak5 my hot ba? & ex*ang$ my suit ( flannels = a cotton kimono1 x 0 amus+ to sit on ! floor & speculate on ! composition ( ! di%es :i* %e br\ght me1 try+ ) ! aid ( a diction>y to f9d out :at !y really 71 & to acquire a ta/e = 8daikon40,b ,among h] successes 7 eels cook$ 9 soy1 broil$ fi%1 & bean curd 8 la bro*ette02 "y bamboo %oots1 *rysan!mum leaves fri$ 9 batt]1 & lily bulbs boil$ 9 sug> 7 eatable2 b a sausage made ( rice & h]bs1 & "s ( ! qua9t vegetables1 7 simply nause\s4 ,9 "o ( my wat]-colors !re 0 a l>ge gr\p ( leaves1 r\nd ones ) a d>k hole :]e ! /em goes 91 commonly kn[n z ! 8=egr\nd plant10 & ,i notic$ "o aft]noon to my disgu/ t ^! _h be5 cut2 ! boil$ /alks 7 giv5 to me at d9n] t ev5+1 & ,i nev] ta/$ any?+ m unpleasant4 ,:5 ! v>i\s di%es _h all be5 br\ght 9 & arrang$ r\nd me by ! prie/ or ,takaki1 ,o ,%ige ,san w\ld appe> & kneel 9 front ( me1 keep+ my sake cup & rice b[l fill$1 & wat*+ ) int5se anxiety my expression z ,i ta/$ ea* comp\nd1 & at ! end ( my d9n] w\ld rem>k t ,i _h eat5 no?+1 & t ,japan 0 a dirty1 ugly c\ntry1 to :i* ,i always repli$ t ,i _h fea/$1 t ,engl& 0 dirty & ugly1 b t ,japan 0 a beautiful c\ntry4 ,su* is ,ori5tal polit5ess4 ,!n ,sok9 came 9 ) 8 pipe & p\* & little fire-box1 &1 aft] tak+ a cup ( sake ) me1 sat & smok$ & conv]s$1 or br\ght out ! tea ?+s ( 8 lam5t$ patron1 ,ii ,kamon no ,kami1 & made me a b[l ( p[d] tea ) all ! correct c]emonies4 ,! ,*a-no-yu is n to be conf\nd$ ) ord9>y tea-dr9k+4 ,x is an elaborate =m ( ent]ta9m5t :i* _c be appreciat$ by an un$ucat$ =eign]2 e movem5t is regulat$ by laws kn[n to ! initiat$1 & ! conv]sation is conf9$ to "s object ( art1 or poem produc$ by ! ho/4 ,! kettle1 wat]-b[l1 & o!r ut5sils %\ld all h "s hi/oric or arti/ic int]e/1 & ! cup f :i* ! mixture is drunk is usually an example ( ar*aic pott]y4 ,! rules ( ! game h n be5 alt]$ = ab\t two c5turies1 ?\gh !re are v>i\s s*ools :i* diff] z ,illu/ration3 ,,:ite ,,azalea ,,bu%1 ,,raku-,,raku-,,tei1 ,,hikone to m9or details--:e!r ! :isk ) :i* ! dr9k is /irr$ %\ld aft]w>ds be laid on ! sev5? or ?irte5? seam ( ! matt+1 & ?+s ( t sort1 :i* seem ( inf9itely small importance to ! ignorant1 b make a va/ diff]5ce to ! connoisseur4 ,our love ( tobacco 0 a great bond ( sympa?y1 al?\gh aft] try+ ea* o!r's pipes we bo? pref]r$ our own4 ,! old man1 :o knew t ,i did n l to be wat*$ :ile pa9t+1 w\ld sit 9 8 little room & gaze at me z ,i work$ 9 ! g>d5 or among ! /one gods on ! hill-side1 & :5 he saw t my pipe 0 out1 w\ld fill ano!r = me & br+ x out ) a box ( mat*es1 mak+ ?is an excuse to look ov] my %\ld] = a few m9utes1 & to h a little conv]sation4 ,z ! summ] came on & ! wea!r got hott] ! insects became m & m num]\s2 !re 7 spl5did butt]flies & dragon-flies 9 ! daytime1 sw>ms ( fire-flies ov] ! rice-fields at night1 & un=tunately _m o!rs :i* bit at all h\rs1 fly+ ?+s1 & ?+s :i* mosquito-curta9s c\ld n keep out4 ,! ,japanese h\se has no sep>ate rooms = liv+ & sleep+2 :5 b$time comes quilts are br\ght 9 & laid on ! floor1 &1 if necess>y1 a mosquito-nett+ ( ?ick gre5 gauze is slung ov] !m f ! f\r corn]s ( ! ap>tm5t4 ,! natives use a small wood5 pill[1 ) a depression = ! neck to re/ 92 ,i nev] c\ld manage ?is1 b aft] a "t ,i succe$$ 9 sleep+ well ) coats or ano!r quilt roll$ up = a bol/]4 ,c]ta9 p>agraphs ab\t me 9 ! local pap]s br\ght a good _m visitors to ! temple to see :at ,i 0 do+1 among !m a g5tleman :o 0 introduc$ to me z ! be/ s+] 9 ,hikone1 & a little conv]sation & :iskey induc$ him to give me "s specim5s ( 8 art--songs ( ! ,buddhi/ & ,%9to prie/s1 & o!rs ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,bamboo ,,grove1 ,,t5n5ji :i* might be describ$ z popul> airs4 ,to =eign e>s !y 7 q devoid ( melody1 & 8 elaborate vocalization only produc$ s\nds :i* 7 disagreeable & h>%1 or else ludicr\sly inadequate to ! ef=ts !y co/ him4 ,my fri5d1 :o appe>$ to be an all-r\nd /hete1 sp5t a good "p ( ! aft]noon 9 arrang+ a big bronze j> ( azalea b\ghs & a hang+ vase ( irises1 curl+ ! leaves & snipp+ (f any /ray %oots :i* did n con=m to ! fi%-scale arrangem5t 7sakana no uroko no kata7 :i* he 0 try+ to make4 ,! family 7 v busy all ?r\gh ?is mon? ) _! crop ( silk-worms1 :i* requir$ incessant c>e & fe$+4 ,i 0 tak5 to see !m fir/ 9 an outbuild+ :5 !y 7 j little black specks2 z !y got old] ! air ( ?is %$ did n suit !m1 & !y 7 mov$ into ! ,hondo1 :]e !y fl\ri%$ & grew ) a/oni%+ rapidity "u ! eye ( ! ,buddha1 & dev\r$ ! baskets ( *opp$ mulb]ry leaves z fa/ z !y c\ld be prep>$4 ,! cat]pill>s 7 huddl$ toge!r on mats hung "o above ano!r 9 a framework2 a nett+ ( /r+ 0 spread ov] ea* mat s t ! :ole mass c\ld be lift$ & ! dbris cle>$ away ) v little tr\ble4 ,:5 !y _h ceas$ to gr[1 & began to /& on end1 wav+ _! heads 9 ! air aft] ! idiotic fa%ion ( silk-worms :o want to sp91 !y 7 pick$ (f & put 9 little ne/s ( /raw or bundles ( bru%-wood1 :i* soon became a mass ( s(t yell[ cocoons4 ,x 0 an anxi\s "t = ,o ,%ige ,san1 = a consid]able "p ( h] income dep5d$ on ! crop ( silk2 ! cocoons are wor? ab\t ?irty y5 a koku1 a measure r less ?an five bu%els4 ,! pond "u my v]&a 0 full ( c>p & baby tortoises1 :i* hurri$ up to be f$ z soon z !y saw me lean+ ov] ! rail2 ! old tortoises 7 m %y1 & ,i only saw !m on v hot days1 sunn+ !mselves on ! /ones1 & !y slipp$ into ! wat] ) a flop if ,i attempt$ to get ne> !m4 ,i caught "o on a pat* ( s&y gr\nd1 aft] wat*+ its /ruggles to cov] up ! hole 9 :i* x _h j laid "s lea!ry-look+ :ite eggs4 ,^! days br\ght out ! snakes too1 "s ( !m v big1 & all unpleasant to look at1 b q h>mless4 ,!re is only "o v5om\s snake 9 ! c\ntry1 a small br[n bea/ call$ 8,mamu%i02 ! o!r sorts are n ill-treat$1 inde$1 !y are consid]$ lucky1 b ?is is always kill$ & sk9n$1 & a m$ic9e is prep>$ f its dri$ body4 ,x w\ld h be5 easy to dream away mon?s "h1 b ! wise regulations ( ! ,japanese gov]nm5t1 =esee+ t ! travell] might be tempt$ to neglect 8 duties & become a m]e loaf]1 =c$ me to return to ,kbe & get a new passport1 s ,i _h to say good-bye to my fri5ds1 & ! ,rakkan ) ! li*5-cov]$ azaleas1 /ill gay ) crimson fl[]s :i* trail$ r\nd _! feet1 & ! t]race :]e e ev5+ ,i _h wat*$ ! sun sett+ ov] ,biwa1 & to desc5d once m to ! railway & ! commonplace4 ,! ra9 came d[n 9 torr5ts z ,i left ! temple1 & cont9u$ to d s all ! day1 b !re 0 pl5ty t 0 amus+ to be se5 f ! c>riage w9d[4 ,! p 7 busy putt+ out _! "y rice plants1 & ! fields 7 full ( m5 & wom5 work+ 9 mud & wat] half-way up to _! knees1 & we>+ _! 8kasa0 & /raw coats1 oil$ pap]1 ru% mats1 or o!r contrivances to keep (f ! ra94 ,x is surely ! dirtie/ & mo/ labori\s =m ( agriculture2 ! "w is almo/ entirely done by manual labor ) a spade & a heavy f\r-prong$ rake1 ?\gh ,i occasionally saw a c[ ,illu/ration3 ,,sunset ,,ov] ,,lake ,,biwa1 ,,f ,,t5n5ji or a pony1 ) a little ?at*$ ro( on its back to %oot (f ! ra91 dragg+ a sort ( h>r[ ?r\gh ! mud4 ,z soon z ! spr+ crop ( b>ley or rape-se$ is g>n]$ & hung up to dry1 ! gr\nd is tr5*$ ) ! spade1 & wat] is turn$ ov] x until x has become a s(t slu%1 :i* is work$ level ) ! rake4 ,! "y rice plants1 gr[n ?ick toge!r 9 nurs]y pat*es1 are pull$ up :5 ! fields are ready = plant+1 _! roots are wa%$1 & !y are ti$ 9 bundles1 :i* are ?r[n into ! mud & wat]2 !n ! m5 & wom5 wade 91 untie a bundle1 & set ! se$l+s 9 l9es by j press+ !m ) _! f+]s into ! mud4 ,!y d ?is wond]fully quickly1 & c plant eight or n9e 9 a r[ )\t mov+ f _! places2 :5 ! field is all plant$ x looks l a pond ) a delicate gre5 haze ov] x4 ,! divid+ banks are plant$ ) beans or o!r vegetables1 s t n a y>d ( gr\nd is wa/$4 ,?is 0 ! #ah? ( ,june1 ! beg9n+ ( ! 8dew mon?10 a p]iod full ( discom=ts = ! travell]1 & especially = ! l&scape-pa9t]4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plant+ ,,rice ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,spr+ ,,fl[]--,,jiro-,,bo ,,! ,,"t ,,( ,,! ,,lotus ,illu/ration3 ,,platycodon ,,gr&iflorum1 8,,kikyo0 ,,! ,,"t ,,( ,,! ,,lotus ,! damp heat ( ! ,japanese summ]1 :i* is s try+ to human be+s1 enc\rages all vegetation to gr[ ) surpris+ luxuriance & rapidity2 ! buds ( ye/]day are fl[]s to-day1 & to-morr[ no?+ is left b ! ru9 ( a pa/ beauty1 mak+ ! pa9t]'s /ruggle mo/ ardu\s j :5 he has lea/ en]gy to cont5d ) nature4 ,! "y bamboo %oots come up l giant asp>agus1 gr[+ s fa/ t "o c almo/ see !m move2 "s ( !m are cut & eat5 :ile "y & t5d]1 & ^? :i* are all[$ to gr[ to l>ge poles are us$ = e imag9able purpose4 ,!y are made into wat]-pipes & fl[]-vases1 b>rel-hoops & umbrellas1 baskets & hats1 scaffold+-poles & pipe-/ems1 fans & delicate :isks = /irr+ ! p[d]$ tea--m ?+s1 9 fact1 ?an ,i c\ld enum]ate 9 a page4 ,! bamboo is surely ! cause ( mu* ( ! clev] con/ructive "w ( ! ,japanese2 = ?\gh x w d mo/ ?+s ) prop] treatm5t1 x w n /& be+ h&l$ l ord9>y timb]2 its peculi> qualities h to be consid]$1 & e way 9 :i* !y use x is arti/ic & good4 ,?is is ! l>ge species :i* gr[s to tw5ty or ?irty feet high2 !re are _m dw>f k9ds1 :i* clo! ! hills ) gre51 & are us$ only = mak+ f5ces & su* l4 ,illu/ration3 ,,aukatum ,,lilies ,,& ,,bocconia ,,on ,,! ,,hills ,,ne> ,,nikko ,! g5]al aspect ( ,japan dur+ ! summ] mon?s is a h>mony 9 gre5s1 ! d>k p9es & cryptom]ias /rik+ ! l[e/ note ( a scale :i* culm9ates 9 ! ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,field ,,( ,,lilies1 ,,(una1 ,,ne> ,,kamakura brilliancy ( ! rice-fields--! mo/ vivid gre5 ,i "k4 ,!re is m v>iety ( color 9 ^? di/ricts :i* are n irrigat$1 su* z t r\nd ,kamakura1 :]e ! light s&y soil gr[s a great _m k9ds ( vegetables1 sweet-potatoes1 melons1 tomatoes1 beans1 & big pat*es ( auratum & longiflorum lilies1 ! bulbs ( :i* are export$4 ,! lily is n "o ( ! fl[]s :i* ! ,japanese !mselves p>ticul>ly admire1 nor d !y (t5 use x = decoration4 ,9 ?is1 z 9 mo/ o!r matt]s1 !re are recogniz$ rules ( ta/e1 & ! man is consid]$ ,illu/ration3 ,,sev5 ,,beautiful ,,fl[]s ,,( ,,late ,,summ] #a4 ,susuki #b4 ,kikyo #c4 ,asago #d4 ,%ion #e4 ,omnia-,me%i #f4 ,kiku #g4 ,hagi ,draw+ by ,te%oto ,h>io an ignoramus :o does n "k ! "r ?+ to l4 ,i 0 walk+ "o day at ,yo%ida ) a ,japanese arti/1 a rem>kable man :o 0 engag$ 9 mak+ a s]ies ( /eel-engrav+s1 half l&scape & half map1 ( ! c\ntry r\nd ,fuji1 & call$ 8 att5tion to a spl5did clump ( p9k belladonna lilies gr[+ ne> an old gray tomb2 b he w\ld n h !m at all1 said !y 7 fooli% fl[]s1 & ! only reason he gave me = n lik+ !m 0 because !y came up )\t any leaves4 ,:5 we got back to our tea-h\se he took my p5 & pap]1 & %[$ me :at 7 ! sev5 beautiful fl[]s ( late summ]--! convolvulus1 ! "n ( :i* 9 ,japanese is 8asago10 mean+ ! same z our 8morn+-glory20 wild *rysan!mum2 yell[ val]ian2 ! lesp$eza1 a k9d ( bu% clov]2 ,platycodon gr&iflorum1 a purple-blue campanula2 ,eulalia japonica1 ! tall grass :i* cov]s s _m ( ! hills2 & %ion1 a r insignificant-fl[]$ a/]4 ,i notic$ t "s v]sions ( ! sev5 fl[]s diff]$ f 82 a l>ge-fl[]$ mall[ is (t5 sub/itut$ = ! la/ he nam$4 ,!re are d\btless diff]5t s*ools :i* hold /rong views on ! subject1 b on ! morn+-glory & "s o!rs !y are evid5tly agre$4 ,! auratum lily is a common wild fl[] 9 ! hilly di/ricts1 & boil$ lily bulbs are a favorite vegetable1 b ,i c\ld n f9d out :i* 0 consid]$ ! be/ v>iety = ! table4 ,o ,%ige ,san told me t x 0 a r$ lily2 ,i look$ 9 va9 = any ( t color 9 _! g>d5s4 ,! cottages 9 ! c\ntry r\nd ,kamakura are ?ickly ?at*$1 & on ! top ( ! ?at* is laid a mass ( e>? held toge!r by iris plants1 :i* =m a ro(-cre/ ( spiky gre52 ne> !m 9 ,july !re (t5 7 l>ge hydrangea bu%es cov]$ ) balls ( blossom1 ! "y fl[]s a pale yell[-gre51 *ang+ z !y grew old] ?r\gh bright blue to purple4 ,on ! #i? ( ,july ! heat drove me f ,europeaniz$ ,yokohama to ! hills4 ,i left ! tra9 at ,utso-no-miya1 a little t[n :i* has be5 f9ancially ru9$ by ! railway--= e "o =m]ly /ay$ a night !re in/ead ( travell+ /raight ?r\gh--& 0 delight$ to f9d myself once m 9 ?or\ghly ,japanese qu>t]s4 ,x 0 a wond]ful moonlight night1 & ,i w&]$ r\nd ! t[n 9 kimono & clogs1 wat*$ ! p1 & 0 />$ at by !m1 climb$ ! /eps to ! big ,%9to temple1 & ,illu/ration3 ,,hydrangea ,,bu%1 ,,totsuka1 ,,ne> ,,yokohama gaz$ ov] ! pla9s flood$ ) pale light1 & ?or\ghly enjoy$ myself4 ,illu/ration3 ,,"u ,,! ,,cryptom]ias ,,at ,,nikko ,!re is a railway n[ to ,nikko1 & mo/ p ru% up !re )\t see+ ! glori\s av5ue ( cryptom]ias--describ$ s well 9 ,loti's ,japon]ies d',automne--:i* l9e ! old road = miles & miles4 ,i s5t my boy & my baggage by rail1 & w5t myself 9 a kuruma ) two good runn]s4 ,! road is sadly out ( repair 9 "s places1 b ! spl5did old trees rema91 & "y ones h be5 plant$ :]e w9ds & age h ?9n$ _! ranks4 ,x is n l an ord9>y av5ue ) ! trees plant$ "s y>ds ap>t2 ^! are s close toge!r t ! trunks h (t5 jo9$ at ! base1 & ,i notic$ "o lot ( sev5 big trees all gr[n toge!r at ! bottom into a mass t mu/ h be5 eight or t5 y>ds long4 ,! road is sunk betwe5 ! high banks on :i* ! trees gr[1 & x mu/ be gloomy en\gh on su* a night z ,loti exp]i5c$4 ,"h & !re x op5s out into a village /reet1 ) abundance ( refre%m5t boo?s = ! pilgrims :o /ill make ! j\rney on foot4 ,nikko itself is a long1 /eep /reet1 lead+ up to a ru%+ m\nta9 torr5t 9 a rocky rav9e1 :i* is cross$ by two bridges side by side4 ,"o is an ord9>y wood5 /ructure1 us$ by all ! _w2 ! o!r1 :i* is ( r$ lacqu]1 ) black supports & brass ornam5ts1 is only op5$ = ! ,emp]or & 8 family to pass ov]4 ,beyond !m ! hills rise1 cov]$ ) cryptom]ias1 among :i* are conceal$ ! great mortu>y temples ( ,ieyasu & ,iemitsu1 f\nd]s ( ! great ,tokugawa ,%ogunate t la/$ = two c5turies4 ,m>vell\s z ^! mausolea are1 !y make no effect 9 ! di/ance2 x is only :5 y get close to !m1 w&] ab\t 9 _! successive c\rt-y>ds1 & exam9e ! lovely details ( wood-c>v+1 lacqu]1 & gild+1 t ! wond] ( !m /rikes y4 ,! tombs !mselves are pla9 bronze pill>s1 & are rea*$ by long flights ( granite /eps1 gre5 & gray ) mosses & li*5s1 :i* lead up "u ! d>k masses ( foliage beh9d ! temples4 ,aft] pass+ ?r\gh all ! glories ( color & elaborate workman%ip 9 ! prelim9>y temples _! f9al peacefulness & simplicity are v /rik+4 ,nikko 9 ! summ] is full ( =eign ladies & *ildr52 ! ,emp]or1 too1 has a c\ntry-h\se !re1 :]e "s ( 8 l>ge family sp5d ! hot mon?s4 ,i saw ! arrival ( two little pr9cesses1 ) a cr[d ( nurses1 tutors1 & (ficials4 ,!y 7 funny little ?+s1 ab\t ?ree or f\r ye>s old1 n z pretty z mo/ ,japanese *ildr51 b dress$ 9 ! mo/ gorge\s colors4 ,! r$ lacqu] bridge 0 op5$ = !m1 decorat$ ) 8gohei0--! /rips ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,little ,,temple ,,at ,,nikko ( :ite pap] :i* are us$ s l>gely 9 ! ,%9to religion--& 9 ! middle ( ! bridge !re 0 a little table ) (f]+s ( food on x1 :]e ! *ildr5 /opp$ & made _! obeisances to ! manes ( _! ance/ors z !y pass$ ov]4 ,all ! prie/s ( ,nikko turn$ out 9 gauze ve/m5ts ( _m colors1 ,buddhi/ & ,%9to equally anxi\s to d honor to ! desc5dants ( ! gods4 ,illu/ration3 ,,kikifuri1 ,,ne> ,,nikko ,! hills are alive ) little t9kl+ /reams ( cle> wat]1 & ! favorite walks mo/ly lead to wat]falls4 ,i sp5t a soak+ day mak+ a sket* ( "o ( !m--,kirifuri2 ! pa? to x cross$ a wide1 /ony riv]1 & w5t ov] grassy hills :]e !re 7 abundant wild fl[]s1 purple iris1 :ite & mauve funkias1 yell[ or*ids1 clu/]s ( :ite roses1 p9k spirz1 hydrangeas1 ,/4-,john's-wort1 mead[-rue1 & bocconia appe>+ "h & !re1 half hidd5 among ! rank h]bage4 ,! big buds ( auratum lilies %[$ h[ f9e !y w\ld be 9 a few days' "t4 ,j 9 front ( ! wat]fall a little tea-h\se gave me %elt] en\gh to "w 92 b ! pa?1 up :i* ,i _h walk$ dry-%od1 by ! "t ,i got back _h be5 turn$ to a rag+ torr5t1 & ,i only j cross$ ! /ony riv] 9 "t1 = ! light bamboo bridge 0 wa%$ d[n dur+ ! night4 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,moor ,,ne> ,,yumoto ,*z5ji is a little hamlet1 "s h\rs' walk f ,nikko up a m\nta9 road1 consi/+ ( a gr\p ( tea-h\ses :i* ov]look a *>m+ lake1 a v sacr$ temple ) a l>ge bronze torii1 & long r[s ( %$s to accommodate ! pilgrims :o come 9 e>ly ,augu/ to make ! ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,wet ,,day ,,at ,,*,,z5ji asc5t ( ,nantai-zan1 ! m\nta9 :i* rises close beh9d ! village4 ,dur+ five long days ( incessant ra9 ,i pa9t$ ev]y?+ t 0 visible f my room 9 "o ( ! tea-h\ses1 ! wat] ( ! lake ris+ ea* day s mu* high] t on ! la/ two ,i 0 able to take a morn+ head] f my balcony1 & ,i h>dly got a *ance to explore ! c\ntry r\nd4 ,at la/ a bright morn+ tempt$ me to ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,foot ,,( ,,nantai-,,zan walk on to ,yumoto1 & see ! sulphur spr+s & ! wide moorl&1 ,s5j-ga-h>a1 :i* lies surr\nd$ by m\nta9-peaks at a height ( ne>ly five ?\s& feet above ! sea4 ,on ! moor ! grasses d n gr[ high en\gh to conceal ! fl[]s1 & ,i f\nd x gay ) purple iris & :ite mead[-rue4 ,! ba?s 9 ,yumoto are op5 to ! public2 !y are l>ge wood5 tanks "u %$s by ! road-side1 & z y walk along ! /reet y see ! pati5ts1 m51 wom51 & *ildr51 all sitt+ toge!r1 9 a /ate ( nature1 up to _! necks 9 ! /eam+ malodor\s s\p4 ,! cl\ds 7 ga!r+ r\nd ! m\nta9-tops z ,i />t$ to walk back to ,*z5ji1 & be=e ,i _h f9i%$ a rapid sket* on ! moor ! ra9 began aga9 9 torr5ts2 ! road 0 a s]ies ( small ponds1 & my coolie insi/$ on c>ry+ me1 z well z my sket*+ mat]ials1 ?r\gh !m2 b he un=tunately /umbl$ "u my weight1 & dropp$ me 9 ! deepe/ ( !m1 & :at ) ! wet above & bel[ ,i 0 well soak$ by ! "t ,i rea*$ my tea-h\se4 ,! hiba*i seems a v inadequate means ( w>m? on su* occasions2 a hot ba? & :iskey & dry clo!s are m effective1 & aft] d9n] a bottle ( tamago-sake1 a hot comp\nd ( :ipp$ egg & sake1 soon produces a pleas+ dr[s9ess4 ,s9ce leav+ ,*z5ji ,i h recogniz$ ! place 9 _m draw+s on scre5s & fans2 ! arti/ always gives its ma9 features--! lake1 ! cryptom]ias1 ! huge bronze torii1 & ! /eep wood$ slope ( ,nantai-zan--b he comb9es !m 9 "o view z y nev] c see !m 9 reality4 ,! ra9 _h play$ havoc ) ! road back to ,nikko2 sev]al bridges 7 d[n1 b tempor>y ones built ( fagots made x possible to cross ! /reams4 ,all ! high] woods ne> ! lake are hung ) gray moss1 & ! fl[]+ %rubs :i* gr[ among !m are endless--azaleas1 climb+ & bu%y hydrangeas1 weigelia1 s]+a1 & wild v9e2 on ! gr\nd ,i f\nd orange ,turk's-cap lilies1 columb9es1 ! big ,lilium cordifolium1 & f]ns ( _m k9ds4 ,not)/&+ ! advantage ( cool] nights1 ,i 0 glad to leave ! gre5 m\nta9s1 ) _! con/ant ra9 & mi/s1 & ! %ut-9 valleys1 :]e x 0 impossible to see m ?an a few hundr$ y>ds away1 & get d[n ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,moat ,,( ,,b5t5-,,%iba aga9 to ! broad] horizons & bigg] skies ( ! pla9s4 ,on ! j\rney to ,tky ,i saw my fir/ lotus fl[]s 9 a lake ne> ! railway1 & ,i hurri$ (f at once to ! pond :i* surr\nds ! little temple ( ,b5t5 at ,%iba1 :]e ,i f\nd !m 9 full glory4 ,! lotus is "o ( ! mo/ difficult plants :i* x has ev] be5 my lot to try & pa9t2 ! fl[]s are at _! be/ only 9 ! e>ly morn+1 & ea* blossom aft] x has op5$ closes aga9 be=e noon ! fir/ day1 & on ! second day its petals drop4 ,! leaves are s l>ge & s full ( modell+ t x is impossible to g5]alize !m z a mass2 ea* "o has to be c>efully /udi$1 & e brea? ( w9d di/urbs _! delicate balance1 & completely alt]s _! =ms4 ,besides ?is _! glauc\s surface1 l t ( a cabbage leaf1 reflects e pass+ phase ( ! sky1 & is con/antly *ang+ 9 color z cl\ds pass ov]4 ,japanese draw+s ( fl[]s--& !y usually draw !m beautifully--are (t5 influ5c$ 9 "s way by a tradition4 ,! man :o inv5t$ ! me?od 0 a true impressioni/2 he seiz$ :at appe>$ to him *>act]i/ic ( ! plant1 & insi/$ on t to ! exclusion ( o!r tru?s1 ?us f\nd+ a mann]ism :i* all foll[+ arti/s imitat$4 ,9 "t1 :at he saw z *>act]i/ic became exagg]at$ by 8 disciples1 :o look$ at nature only ?r\gh 8 eyes & n ) _! own1 & ,i h obs]v$ t ! fl[]s :i* are mo/ frequ5tly drawn are n depict$ s naturally z ^? less popul> ones1 9 books ( botany & su* l1 = draw+ :i* !re is no recogniz$ me?od1 & :]e ! draughtsman _h to rely entirely on 8 own obs]vation = 8 facts4 ,take1 = example1 ! spots on ! lotus /ems2 if y look v closely y c see t !re are spots1 b c]ta9ly !y c\ld n /rike e arti/ z a m>k$ feature ( ! plant1 = !y are n visible ?ree y>ds away4 ,b "s ma/] notic$ !m _m ye>s ago & spott$ 8 /ems1 & n[ !y all spot !m1 & ! spots get bigg] & bigg]2 & s x w be until "s orig9al g5ius arises :o w n be cont5t ) o!r p's eyes1 b w d>e to look = himself1 & he may p]haps1 )\t ab&on+ ,japanese me?ods1 get ne>] to nature1 & />t a r5aissance 9 ,japanese art4 ,! ,japanese treatm5t ( l&scape is n m conv5tional ?an t ( ,claude or ,david ,cox1 or ?an ! %or?& ( our p5cil-sket*es1 b x records its facts 9 a diff]5t way4 ,! ev]la/+ "q 9 art is ! imitation ( nature2 x has nev] be5 c>ri$ fur!r 9 c]ta9 directions ?an by ,millais & 8 pre-,raphaelite bre?r51 or 9 o!rs ?an by ,manet1 ,monet1 & ! mod]n ,fr5*1 b no "o c put 9 ev]y?+2 look at a simple bun* ( leaves 9 sunlight aga9/ a wall1 & ?9k h[ long x w\ld take to really imitate all _! complexities ( =m1 color1 & light & %ade2 "s facts c only be giv5 by ignor+ o!rs1 & ! "q :at is ! important ?+ :i* mu/ be insi/$ on is ! p]sonal affair ( ea* individual arti/ 9 e c\ntry :]e art is unfett]$ & alive4 ,b 9 ,japanese1 z 9 ,byzant9e & o!r ,ea/]n arts1 ?is "q is /ill decid$ by ! practice ( pa/ g5]ations1 & x w take all ! vitality ( a /rong man to infuse new life into x )\t de/roy+ its _m exquisite qualities4 ,p]haps :5 ,japanese arti/s absorb its _s in/ead ( m]ely try+ to imitate its me?ods1 ,we/]n art may help 9 ! direction ( fre$om2 at pres5t ,i fe> t its influ5ce has done m h>m ?an good4 ,! p are s quick to recognize ! mean+ ( a few l9es1 & to und]/& ! poetic idea :i* !y sugge/1 t x is a wond] ! arti/s ev] le>n$ to draw at all2 !y might h be5 cont5t ) symbols1 = a few l9es l ^? bel[ are en\gh to convey all ! poetry t is associat$ 9 _! m9ds ) any ( ! well-kn[n art motives4 ,illu/ration ,! little isl& ( ,b5t5 is a frequ5t$ spot1 & my easel 0 surr\nd$ f morn+ till night ) a cr[d ( spectators2 !y disp]s$ at ! comm& ( ! policeman on 8 h\rly r\nd1 b aft] he _h gaz$ 8 fill & left me1 a new lot in/antly assembl$4 ,!y 7 mo/ly *ildr52 & a cr[d ( ,japanese *ildr5 is twice z _m z any o!r cr[d ( its size1 = e *ild has ano!r small] "o ti$ to its back4 ,i suppose !y are n born 9 pairs ?is way1 b !y contract ! habit ( c>ry+ a little "o at a v e>ly age1 & (t5 tie on a doll :5 a suffici5tly small human be+ _c be f\nd4 ,! spectators are almo/ always polite1 & take c>e n to put !mselves betwe5 y & y\r subject2 b !y squeeze up v close to y\r elb[1 & trample on y\r n]ves1 if n on y\r mat]ials4 ,!y usually rem>k$ t my "w 0 a photograph2 "s m educat$ ones said t x 0 an oil-pa9t+1 t be+ ! m$ium :i* is associat$ ) =eign art2 & "o man said t x 0 enamel1 :i* ,i took z a complim5t to ! brilliancy ( my color4 ,! keep] ( a little tea-%$ h>d by1 :]e ,i took my lun*1 notic$ t ,i 0 worri$ by ! p /&+ s close to me1 & :5 ,i arriv$ next morn+ ,i f\nd t he _h put up a f5ce r\nd ! place :]e ,i work$2 x 0 only a few sl5d] bamboo /icks1 ) a ?9 /r+ twi/$ f "o to ano!r1 b n a s\l attempt$ to come inside x4 ,!y are su* an ,illu/ration3 ,,spectators ob$i5t & docile race t a little /r+ /ret*$ across a road is q en\gh to close ! ?or\ghf>e4 ,x is difficult to reconcile ! "* ( ?is peaceable & pleasure-lov+ race :i* ! mod]n travell] sees ) t :i* is ascrib$ to _! =efa!rs--^? h]oes ( ! desp]ate w>s & bloody revolutions :i* fill ! pages ( ! e>ly hi/ory ( ,japan4 ,x may be t two c5turies ( ,tokugawa rule1 fa!rly b autocratic1 develop$ qualities ( unreason+ ob$i5ce1 & p]haps all ! /ruggles ( ! pa/ 7 m]ely dyna/ic1 or affairs betwe5 ! w>riors ( diff]5t clans2 p]haps ! p !mselves h always be5 z g5tle z !y are n[1 cultivat+ _! l& & pursu+ _! +5i\s trades1 little affect$ by ^! turmoils1 except t1 l ! produc]s ( all times & c\ntries1 !y 7 call$ on to supply ! s9ews ( w>4 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,la/ ,,tea ,,leaves--,,cottage ,,ne> ,,yokohama ,! lotus is intimately connect$ ) ,buddhism2 mo/ p]sonifications ( ! ,buddha are repres5t$ z seat$ or /&+ on its fl[]1 or hold+ an unexp&$ bud 9 _! h&s2 x is l>gely us$ 9 temple decorations1 & vases ) imitations 9 metal ( ! fl[]s1 leaves1 buds1 & se$-pods1 (t5 v exquisite 9 workman%ip1 /& on all ! alt>s4 ,x is typical to ! ,buddhi/ m9d ( ! qualities ( ! ideal man3 z x gr[s 9 ! mud1 yet produces a lovely fl[]1 x is a symbol ( purity 9 a naughty _w2 z its odor sweet5s ! air ar\nd1 s 8 good de$s influ5ce ^? ab\t him2 x op5s 9 ! morn+ sun%9e1 & 8 m9d is exp&$ by ! light ( k2 its bran*less /alks1 ris+ )\t a break to ! leaf or fl[]1 are a type ( 8 s+le-m9d$ness & directness ( purpose2 & its edible root %[s t ! basis ( 8 life mu/ be usefulness to o!rs4 ,to ?is ,i may add t1 l ! v good1 ! fl[] always dies "y4 ,x is lovely en\gh 9 itself )\t all ?is halo ( virtue4 ,h>dy says ( ,tess1 8,beauty to h]1 z to all :o h felt1 lay n 9 ! ?+1 b 9 :at ! ?+ symboliz$02 ?is is unavoidable ) mo/ ( u1 & ! sugge/ion ( feel+s & memories ( our own does n necess>ily obscure our visual s5se2 b a fix$ & recogniz$ sugge/ion is ! result ( m5tal laz9ess1 & may lead to ! ignor+ ( intr9sic beauty2 z our lovely primrose is to "s eyes a political badge1 admir$ only because ( its association ) a "n & a faction1 or reject$ = ! same cause4 ,to quote ,mr4 ,pun*1 8,a primrose by ! riv]'s brim ,a p>ty emblem 0 to him1 ,& x 0 no?+ m40 ,b ! lotus has n sunk s l[ z ?is2 ?\gh x has be5 adopt$ by ! ,buddhi/s1 x excites no animosity 9 ,%9to brea/s2 & :]e temples "u ! pres5t rgime h be5 h&$ ov] f ! "o religion to ! o!r1 ?\gh ! pagoda & o!r di/9ctively ,buddhi/ ,illu/ration3 ,,lotus-,,ponds ,,at ,,kamakura /ructures are pull$ d[n1 ! lotus-ponds are left 9 _! beauty4 ,! l>ge/ ,i saw 7 ^? connect$ ) ! great ,ha*iman temple at ,kamakura1 :i* has be5 turn$ ov] to ! /ate religion2 !y cov] sev]al acres1 & ! fl[]s 9 !m are ( ?ree colors--ei!r :ite1 bright rose1 or a delicate %ell-l p9k4 ,all ?ree v>ieties seem to gr[ equally freely1 & "o is z lovely z ! o!r4 ,! :ite "o has be5 specially adopt$ by ,illu/ration3 ,,lotus-,,pat* ,,among ,,! ,,rice-,,fields1 ,,kawasaki1 ,t,,ky ! foll[]s ( ,ni*ir51 a noisy sect :i* beats a drum dur+ ! long h\rs ( pray]1 & x is ?is v>iety1 too1 :i* is usually gr[n 9 pat*es "h & !re among ! rice-fields = ! sake ( its roots4 ,!y h n mu* flavor1 except t ( ! sug> ) :i* !y are boil$1 b !y are crisp 9 texture & pleasant to mun*4 ,! *ildr5 are v fond ( ! nutlike se$s :i* are emb$d$ 9 ! fle%y se$-pod2 x looks v l ! rose ( a wat]+-pot4 ,9 ! tea-boo?s r\nd ! temple ( ,b5t5 !y use a dri$ slice ( ?is pod = a mat on :i* to /& ! cup or b[l4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,tea-,,h\se ,,at ,,kamakura ,kamakura 0 = a long "t ! capital ( ,japan2 9 ! twelf? c5tury x 0 select$ = 8 headqu>t]s by ,yoritomo1 ! great w>rior ^: victories enabl$ him to take ! re9s into 8 own h&s1 & to e/abli% t sy/em ( milit>y gov]nm5t :i* only end$ ) ! deposition ( ! la/ ,%ogun 9 #ahfh4 ,b :5 a rival family defeat$ 8 successors !y remov$ ! seat ( gov]nm5t1 & ,kamakura rapidly decl9$ f a great city ( m ?an a million inhabitants to ! insignificant fi%+-village :i* x n[ is1 ) no?+ to %[ ( its =m] greatness b ?is temple ( ,ha*iman1 & ! ,daibutsu1 an enorm\s bronze ,buddha1 n only rem>kable = its size1 b also = be+ ! f9e/ & mo/ dignifi$ production :i* ! art ( ,japan c %[4 ,! temple build+s :i* once %elt]$ x 7 de/roy$ ages ago1 & ! image is n[ 9 ! op5 air1 9 "o ( ! little valleys :i* bran* out f ! pla9 & run back among ! p9e-clad hills4 ,c5turies ( exposure to ra9 & sun h giv5 v>i$ colors to ! great bronze god4 ,he is seat$ cross-legg$ on a lotus-fl[]1 8 h&s fold$ 9 8 lap2 ! head is b5t slightly =w>d1 & 8 face gazes d[n ) an expression ( calm sup]iority :i* c only come f p]fect$ wisdom & subjugat$ passions4 ,a new %r9e to ,yoritomo's memory1 all ( black & gold1 /&s ne> "o ( ! lotus-ponds2 9 front ( x are "s spl5did old will[-trees1 :i* he is said to h plant$1 & "u :i* he sat & compos$ poetry :5 he 0 n engag$ m actively 9 fight+4 ,x is h>dly possible t ^! will[s c h liv$ to su* a great age2 !y are probably desc5dants ( ! orig9al trees4 ,beh9d ! %r9e is a l>ge mod]n b>rack1 & ,i saw b&s ( :ite-clad recruits1 ) side-arms & repeat+ rifles1 tr\s]s1 ,illu/ration3 ,,yoritomo',s ,,will[s ,,& ,,8 ,,%r9e tunics1 & =age-caps1 q ,european 9 ev]y?+ b face & /ature1 con/antly pass+ to & fro ov] ! gr\nd :]e ! old w>rior mu/ h se5 8 qua9t soldi]s 9 lacqu]$ armor & bronze helmets c>ry+ _! long-b[s & que]-%ap$ halb]ds4 ,"o day :5 ,i 0 pa9t+ ! will[s my boy ,matsuba1 :o _h pl5ty ( sp>e "t = inve/igat+ ! neighborhood :ile wait+ to c>ry home my umbrella & ?+s1 came & told me t !re 0 a wre/l+-mat* at a small temple ab\t a mile away4 ,i pack$ up at once & we walk$ ov] !re1 = ,i 0 v anxi\s to see :at k9d ( a sport x 04 ,?is 0 a t\rnam5t1 & all ! pr(essional wre/l]s ( ! neighborhood1 & _m y\?s anxi\s to di/+ui% !mselves1 _h collect$ to take "p 9 x4 ,!y 7 divid$ into ?ree classes4 ,! ma/]s ( ! art 7 all pa/ _! fir/ y\?2 n enorm\sly /\t1 z !y are (t5 repres5t$ 9 draw+s & c>v+s1 b f9e1 a?letic m51 tall] ?an ! av]age ( ,japanese4 ,!y wore _! hair 9 ! anci5t /yle1 %av$ away f ! c5tre ( ! head1 & ! locks f ! back & side made into a queue1 turn$ up & knott$ ) a /r+ on ! top ( ! poll2 !y _h no clo!s except a lo9-clo? & an embroid]$ apron4 ,9 ! second class 7 m5 :o _h won b few prizes2 !y 7 n all 9 ! pr(essional get-up1 & "s ( !m 7 evid5tly labor+-m5 ) a ta/e = sport4 ,! ?ird class 0 compos$ ( y\?s1 none ( !m m ?an n9ete5 or tw5ty ye>s old4 ,! conte/s took place 9 ! temple c\rt-y>d on a circul> b$ ( s&1 "u a ro( support$ by wood5 pill>s1 b n enclos$ at ! sides2 r\nd ! edge ( ?is rais$ circle !re 0 laid a /raw rope1 & ! man won :o c\ld ei!r fairly ?r[ 8 oppon5t or =ce him across ! rope )\t be+ dragg$ ov] himself4 ,! proce$+s 7 conduct$ by a ,%9to prie/ 9 full dress1 wide tr\s]s1 & a coat /ick+ out f ! %\ld]s l t ( a mod]n "y lady1 :o ) a peculi>-%ap$ fan gave ! signal to beg9 & to /op4 ,= ! highe/ class ?is umpire 0 a v5]able old g5tleman2 = ! o!rs ! place 0 tak5 by "y prie/s :o ne$$ to le>n ?is "p ( _! bus9ess4 ,! wre/l]s came on 9 pairs z _! names 7 call$1 & aft] a great deal ( m>*+ r\nd1 /amp+1 rubb+ _! limbs1 mak+ ge/ures ( defiance1 & s on1 !y squatt$ opposite ea* o!r4 ,:5 ! ,illu/ration3 ,,japanese ,,wre/l]s signal 0 giv5 to beg9 !y re/$ _! f+]s on ! gr\nd betwe5 _! knees1 & lean$ t[>ds ea* o!r till _! =eheads t\*$1 sometimes wait+ sev]al m9utes be=e attempt+ to make any grip4 ,if ! grip seem$ unfair or unsatisfactory to "o ( ! oppon5ts1 he imm$iately put d[n 8 h&s1 ! prie/ /opp$ ! b\t1 & all ! prelim9>y bus9ess _h to be gone ?r\gh aga92 b if x seem$ all "r ! /ruggle began1 & sometimes la/$ = five m9utes1 ea* man /ra9+ e muscle 9 a spl5did way1 & us+ all ! sci5ce & cunn+ he knew4 ,if x la/$ too long )\t ei!r man ga9+ any advantage1 ! prie/ signall$ to !m to /op1 & !y _h to wait till _! turn came r\nd aga94 ,! prec$+ r\gh sket*1 made :ile jamm$ 9 ! cr[d ( spectators1 w give "s idea ( ! attitude ( ! m5 wait+ = ! fan to be l[]$4 ,ev]y?+ 0 conduct$ 9 ! mo/ c]emoni\s & ord]ly mann]1 & !re 0 no drunk5ness or r[dyism1 al?\gh ! multitudes :o _h assembl$ 7 entirely ( ! poore/ class4 ,! mo/ fa%ionable wre/l+-mat*es are held 9 ,tky 9 spr+ & autumn1 & ! *ampion is z mu* a popul> favorite z a fam\s tor]o 9 ,spa91 or a well-kn[n prize-fight] 9 ,engl& & ,am]ica4 ,^? :o read ^! notes w h ga!r$ t ! heat & ! ra9 make summ] life 9 ,japan n :olly enjoyable2 let me also say "s words ( w>n+ to ! ?9-sk9n$ aga9/ ! mosquitoes1 & ev5 m aga9/ a horrible little insect :i* lives 9 ! grass or s& & bites y\r legs & feet4 ,x is s small t ,i nev] succe$$ 9 f9d+ x1 b its bite br+s up a bli/] :i* breaks & leaves tr\blesome sores4 ,!re 7 few nights f ,june till ,octob] :5 ,i 0 n oblig$ to get up once or twice & ba! !m 9 cold wat] to allay ! intol]able it*+4 ,! sea1 too1 has its t]rors4 ,i w5t d[n to ! %ore ne> ,kamakura "o hot night1 hop+ t a swim w\ld soo! my tr\bl$ sk91 b no soon] _h ,i plung$ into ! approa*+ wave ?an my neck & arms 7 embrac$ by jelly-fi%1 & ,i scrambl$ out feel+ & look+ z if ,i _h tak5 my ba? 9 a b$ ( nettles4 ,! ,japanese1 al?\gh !y grumble & fan !mselves a good deal1 d n really m9d ! heat2 _! draughty h\ses are admirably adapt$ = f9e summ] wea!r1 & _! clo?+ is s5sible & scanty4 ,b ! =eign]s suff]1 & z ,septemb] comes1 & ! lotus fl[]s fade1 !y hail ) relief ! approa* ( ! cool] & dry] wea!r ( autumn4 ,illu/ration3 ,,lesp$eza 8,,magi0 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,he>t-,,leav$ ,,lily ,,fujisan ,illu/ration3 ,,campanulas ,,on ,,fuji ,,fujisan ,illu/ration ,! great m\nta9 ( ,japan is well kn[n to u all2 its =m appe>s on c\ntless scre5s & fans1 & its =eign "n1 ,fusiyama1 is z famili> z ,mont ,blanc or ,pike's ,peak4 ,by ! ,japanese x is call$ ,fuji1 or ,fujisan1 or sometimes ,fuji-noyama :5 speak+ poetically3 x is difficult to und]/& h[ an s came to be sub/itut$ = ! j by =eign]s1 b "u any "n !re is a peculi> fasc9ation ab\t ! m\nta91 & ! fir/ sight ( x1 f ! hundr$ /eps 9 ,yokohama1 f ,u5o 9 ,tky ?r\gh a haze ( telephone wires1 or across ! waves ( ,suruga ,bay f ! deck ( a /eam]1 is an ev5t :i* w be fix$ 9 ! travell]'s memory4 ,i c nev] see a high place )\t wi%+ to be on ! top ( x1 & ,fuji looks obtrusively high4 ,! long sweep ) :i* x heaves its twelve ?\s& feet above ! %ore1 ! abs5ce ( any competitive m\nta9s1 & ! exagg]at$ p]spective ( its broad base & n>r[ summit1 all add to ?is impression1 & ! ambiti\s s\l longs to be on su* a sup]ior em95ce4 ,& !re is no bett] way ( tak+ a holiday ?an to climb a m\nta94 ,to g d[n a riv] leads to laz9ess2 ?+s glide by :i* look z if !y ought to be sket*$1 b to d s w\ld involve /opp+ ! boat1 & int]f]+ ) ! =ces ( nature :i* are g5tly fur!r+ ! travell]'s ends1 & ?us ! m9d is toss$ to & fro betwe5 ! delight ( see+ ?+s & ! unpleasant feel+ t x is a duty to "w4 ,?9k+ is ! "o ?+ to be especially avoid$ on a holiday1 & !re is too mu* "t = ?9k+ on an ord9>y riv]4 ,! same objection holds aga9/ walk+ on easy roads2 9 fact1 ! f>!r y walk ! m y ?9k2 b 9 climb+ a really big hill all ?\ght is kill$ = h\rs by ! simple physical ex]tion1 & y become a m]e ma*9e1 ) a labori\sly pump+ he>t & v heavy legs4 ,& :at a s5se ( sup]iority comes :5 ! highe/ po9t is at la/ rea*$1 :5 ! _w is all bel[ y1 half cl\d & half solid e>?1 lovely1 my/]i\s1 & absolutely unpa9table4 ,ev5 ?is s5se fades f me 9 a few m9utes1 & ,i become a non5tity1 ) only a vague feel+ ( ! hug5ess ( ! univ]se & ! inf9itesimal smallness ( ! individual1 & ! op5+ v]se ( ,adam's morn+ hymn always comes into my m9d1 z x did ye>s ago on ! top ( a ,som]set%ire hill ov]look+ ! ,gla/onbury flats1 j aft] my fir/ read+ ( 8,p>adise ,lo/40 ,an arti/ (t5 he>s ! rem>k1 8,y mu/ f9d pa9t+ a great res\rce10 z if x 7 an amusem5t l golf or tr\t-fi%+2 & no d\bt to _m p a l&scape-pa9t]'s life seems l "o long holiday2 b ! /ruggle ) ev]-*ang+ skies & fa/-fad+ fl[]s has its fatigues1 & ! m9d gets we>i$ ( con/antly ?9k+ h[ ?is & t ought to be pa9t$1 s :5 a fri5d 9 ,yokohama sugge/$ t we %\ld g up ,fuji toge!r1 ,i accept$ 8 proposal ) alacrity1 & we *ose ! fir/ week 9 ,augu/ = our excursion1 t be+ ! "t :5 !re is ! be/ *ance ( good wea!r1 & :5 mo/ pilgrims are to be se5 on ! m\nta94 ,"o ( ! mo/ bor+ ?+s 9 life is to walk ?r\gh new & int]e/+ c\ntry ) a man :o has no eyes = any?+ b 8 wat*1 & :o insi/s on tell+ y h[ _m m9utes ! la/ mile has tak52 b my fri5d's figure 0 a suffici5t gu>antee aga9/ any attempt at 8record-cutt+10 ,illu/ration3 ,,go+ ,,up ,,9 ,,! ,,mi/ & ,i felt sure t 8 pace w\ld give me pl5ty ( "t = look+ ab\t4 ,! wea!r = our />t 0 n promis+--t damp summ] heat ( :i* !re is s mu* 9 ,japan1 heavy & depress+1 %r\d+ ! m\nta9s f morn+ till night 9 d5se masses ( cl\d1 :i* seem to sl[ly drag !mselves up f ! valley1 & nev] succe$ 9 gett+ cle> ( ! hill-tops4 ,f ,miya-no-%ita to ! ,hakone ,lake we 7 f "t to "t envelop$ 9 ^! cl\ds1 & a ?9 drizzl+ ra9 prev5t$ u f enjoy+ :at 9 f9e wea!r w\ld be a v lovely walk4 ,! moor at ! nor!rn end ( ! lake1 ,s5goku-h>a1 is dott$ ) h]ds ( cattle1 & is p]haps ! only place 9 ,japan :]e ?is famili> sight c be se54 ,y may w&] = miles ov] ! gre5 hills & moorl&s :i* cov] s l>ge a portion ( its surface )\t ev] see+ a f\r-foot$ animal2 p]haps because ! tall1 co>se grasses & ! leaves ( ! dw>f bamboos are unsuitable = fodd]2 p]haps because ! ,japanese are n a meat-eat+ nation1 & d n ne$ h]ds & flocks4 ,our int5tion 0 to cross ?is moor1 & jo9 ! road :i* leads f ,miya-no-%ita by way ( ! ,maid5's ,pass1 ,otome-no-toge1 to ,gotemba1 a village at ! foot ( ,fuji1 b our coolie assur$ u t he knew a %ort] road by ! ,nagao-toge1 s we /ruggl$ up ! hill-side on our left1 rea*$ a po/ :i* m>k$ ! top ( ! pass1 & !n /opp$ 9 ! mi/ to consid] :i* track we %\ld foll[4 ,sudd5ly appe>$ to u an ag$ man1 ^: v5]able face inspir$ u ) confid5ce1 & by him we 7 l$ a/ray4 ,he took u by ! semblance ( a pa? along ! hill-top1 & = ab\t half an h\r we plung$ ?r\gh wet grass up to our necks1 ! ?ick :ite mi/ hid+ ev]y?+ m ?an t5 y>ds di/ant2 !n he confess$ t he _h lo/ 8 way1 t he _h he>d ( t road1 b _h nev] tak5 x be=e1 & t x 0 all gr[n ov]--an obvi\s fact2 s !re 0 no?+ to be done b f9d our way back to ! po/1 & try ! wid] track f :i* he _h beguil$ u4 ,he 0 a *e]ful old s\l1 sev5ty-f\r ye>s ( age1 :o _h j walk$ to "s hot spr+s ab\t tw5ty miles f 8 home to take ! ba?s = a c\ple ( days because he suff]$ f rheumatism4 ,ei!r x 0 a v mild case or ! ba?s 7 m>vell\sly efficaci\s1 = he l$ u d[n ! hill at a rattl+ pace1 & w5t five or six miles out ( 8 way to atone = 8 error1 & to put u 9 ! "r road = ,gotemba4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,cl\dy ,,ev5+1 ,,f ,,! ,,s&s ,,( ,,tago-,,no-,,ura ,! mi/s rea*$ f> d[n ! hill1 & :5 we 7 at la/ free f !m we look$ eag]ly = ,fuji4 ,!re 0 ! sea bel[ u1 ) ! great curve ( s&1 ,tago-no-ura1 bord]+ ,suruga ,bay1 & ! gre5 slopes ris+ f x %[$ :]e our m\nta9 mu/ be1 b at ! height ( ab\t two ?\s& feet a /raight bank ( :ite cl\d rul$ (f ! l&scape1 & ( ! summit we c\ld see no sign4 ,! pa? l$ u along ! hill-side1 :]e m5 7 cutt+ ! r\gh grass1 & load+ x on pack-horses2 x w&]$ 9 & out ( ! dry gulleys1 & ov] ! int]v5+ ridges1 & at la/1 desc5d+ to ! nor?w>d1 br\ght u ?r\gh cultivat$ fields to a tea-h\se ne> ! railway /ation1 :]e our baggage & provisions 7 wait+ = u4 ,gotemba is on ! ,tkaid ,railway1 & is !re=e a mu*-frequ5t$ place dur+ ! six weeks or s :5 ,fuji is consid]$ to be 8op540 ,x has be5 asc5d$ at all seasons1 ! labori\s walk+ ?r\gh s(t sn[ be+ ! only difficulty1 & ! *ance ( bad wea!r ! only dang]2 b except f ! latt] "p ( ,july to ! beg9n+ ( ,septemb] ! num]\s re/-h\ses are unoccupi$1 & ! climb] is oblig$ to c>ry all provisions ) him4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fuji ,,f ,,! ,,abekawa1 ,,& ,,! ,,tokaido ,,bridge ,!re 7 pl5ty ( pilgrims ab\t1 wait+ to />t on ! morr[ or j return$ f ! m\nta91 "s wa%+ _! we>y feet1 o!rs ty+ _! big hats & long walk+-/icks 9 bundles = ! luggage-van1 & all *att]+ incessantly4 ,aft] d9n] a travell+ company ent]ta9$ u 9 front ( our tea-h\se ) songs & dances4 ,! b& consi/$ ( two samis51 a bell tapp$ ) a /ick1 & bamboo ca/anets4 ,! danc]s 7 all little girls1 f t5 to fifte5 ye>s old1 dress$ 9 ! ord9>y long-sleev$ kimono1 & ! movem5ts ( _! bodies & slim little h&s & limbs 7 full ( grace & v>iety4 ,ea* p]=mance 0 a mixture ( song1 dance1 & dialogue1 ) in/rum5tal accompanim5t2 ! music 0 que]1 tuneless1 & (t5 h>% to ! ,european e>1 b ) ! blood-/irr+ quality ( all g5u9e national music4 ,be=e daybreak next morn+ ! :ole h\se 0 /irr+1 & x 0 useless to hope = m sleep4 ,mo/ ( ! pilgrims />t e>ly 9 ord] to get to ! top by sunset1 sleep !re1 & desc5d ! foll[+ day1 b we _h decid$ to sleep two nights on ! m\nta91 & 7 9 no hurry4 ,our heavi] baggage 0 s5t by pack-horse to ,yo%ida1 on ! nor? side ( ! m\nta91 & ?ree coolies w5t ) u z guides & port]s1 c>ry+ "s extra clo?+ & ! solid food :i* seems necess>y = ,european /oma*s4 ,9 ! village /reet our /roll+ play]s 7 already w&]+ r\nd1 try+ ) "s prelim9>y *ords on ! samis5 to attract an audi5ce4 ,daylight did n suit !m1 !y look$ draggl$ & disc\rag$1 & x 0 difficult to believe t ^? dirty little figures %uffl+ along 9 ! mud c\ld ev] h _h any *>m or grace ( movem5t4 ,! pa? f ,gotemba to ! summit is "o /eady asc5t ov] b$s ( old a%es4 ,at fir/ x is a v g5tle rise2 ! lanes w9d ?r\gh ! fields ) v>i\s crops1 ,illu/ration3 ,,on ,,! ,,nor!rn ,,slope ,,( ,,fuji--,,grass-,,cutt]s ,,return+ & pa/ cottages ) h$ges ( p9k & :ite hibiscus2 b aft] a few miles x beg9s to get /eep]1 ! a%es are less dis9tegrat$1 cultivation only appe>s 9 isolat$ spots1 & !re are l>ge /ret*es ( gray moorl& v>i$ only ) bu%es & wild-fl[]s4 ,! mi/ /ill hung r\nd u1 !re 0 no l&scape to be se5 9 any direction1 & if x _h n be5 = ! fl[]s & ! ev]-new & qua9t figures on ! road1 ?is "p ( ! walk w\ld h be5 dull4 ,besides ! regul> pilgrims !re 7 _m m5 & wom5 lead+ pack-horses1 ^? on _! way up c>ry+ provisions & fuel = ! re/-h\ses1 & ^? com+ d[n br++ bundles ( grass s l>ge t !y look$ l walk+ hay-/acks1 & ! wiry little ponies t c>ri$ !m 7 almo/ invisible4 ,9 front a mis%ap5 head peep$ out1 und]nea? 7 f\r ?9 little legs ) enorm\s feet1 & z !y pass$1 _! n>r[ droop+ qu>t]s1 cat-hamm$ & c[-hock$1 sway$ at e /ep "u ! heavy load4 ,japanese draw+s ( horses h ris5 9 my e/imation s9ce ,i h se5 ! models ! arti/s h to "w f2 !re nev] 0 a m ill-%ap$ bea/ ?an ! ord9>y horse ( ! c\ntry4 ,9 ?is z 9 _m o!r hill di/ricts m>es only are us$2 !y are %od ) big /raw ov]-%oes1 :i* give a f9i%+ t\* to _! ludicr\s %ape2 "u !m is slung a squ>e ( d>k-blue cotton clo? to keep (f ! flies1 & a n>r[ /rip ( ! same mat]ial1 ) a big crimson cord & tassel pr9t$ on x = decoration1 is drap$ across _! qu>t]s4 ,_m ( ! pilgrims ride up z f> z ! tea-h\se call$ ,uma-gae%i 7horse s5d back71 & ! ponies look almo/ z mu* eclips$ "u ! big pack-saddle ) its trapp+s1 & ! pilgrim ) 81 z !y d "u ! loads ( grass4 ,:5 all cultivation _h disappe>$1 & ! road 0 a m]e c9d] track ov] a moorl& ( a%es1 ! fl[]s & bu%es /ill grew 9 clu/]s "h & !re4 ,! mo/ abundant plant 0 a l>ge bu%y knotwe$ cov]$ ) sprays ( :ite blossoms1 & ?is grew f> up ! m\nta9-side4 ,!re 7 also clumps ( tall bocconia1 a campanula ) l>ge p9k or lav5d] fl[]s spr9kl$ 9 ea* bell ) t9y ink-spots1 & v>i\s less %[y fl[]s4 ,! flora on ?is side ( ! m\nta91 deva/at$ by ! la/ eruption1 9 #agjf1 is n s ri* z t on ! nor!rn slope4 ,z ! asc5t became /eep] we got into a wood ( dw>f$ & scraggy p9e-trees1 :i* ext5d$ z f> z ,t>b1 a l>ge tea-h\se ) a little temple atta*$1 & !n sudd5ly ceas$2 above ?is !re 0 only an occasional dead /ump to break ! monoton\s surface ( a%es4 ,"h e pilgrim pur*ases a /ick to help him up ! m\nta9--an octagonal /aff ( bir*1 ab\t five feet long1 ) an inscription burn$ on x1 & = a few copp]s ! prie/s on duty at ! summit w add a r$ /amp to prove t ! own] has actually be5 !re4 ,we rea*$ ! second %elt] beyond ,t>b q e>ly 9 ! aft]noon2 great masses ( wet mi/ came con/antly driv+ up ! m\nta9-side2 !re 0 pl5ty ( room 9 ! hut1 & no?+ to be ga9$ by go+ high]1 s we decid$ to /ay !re = ! night4 ,all ! regul> tracks up ,fuji are divid$ into t5 portions1 & a re/-h\se is suppos$ to m>k ! end ( ea* division2 b !y v>y mu* 9 _! accommodation = travell]s1 & (t5 get de/roy$ dur+ ! w9t]1 s x is well to f9d out be=e />t+ :i* are habitable & :i* are n4 ,numb] ,two 7,ni-g-me71 on ! ,gotemba pa?1 0 a roomy hut1 built ) blocks ( lava2 f bel[ x look$ l a wall ) a hole 9 x1 f above x 0 n visible1 = ! a%es cov]+ its ro( ( r\gh planks 7 simply a cont9uation ( ! m\nta9 slope2 !re 0 no *imney1 b a mass ( sn[ 0 pil$ ov] ! fireplace1 :i* dripp$ ?r\gh ! ro( into a tub & suppli$ ! e/abli%m5t ) wat]4 ,by ea* %elt] a small :ite flag flutt]$ on a pole to make its situation obvi\s4 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,second ,,%elt] ,,9 ,,! ,,gotamba ,,pa? ,no?+ c\ld be m dre>y ?an ?is spot on su* an aft]noon3 above1 bel[1 & on ea* side ! wa/e ( purple-gray a%es1 light-gre5 spots ( knotwe$ & ?i/le1 only en=c+ ! gloom ( its color1 seem$ to /ret* int]m9ably into ! mi/1 & no?+ broke ! monotony ( ! long oblique l9e except ! little em95ce ( ,hoei-zan1 /ick+ up l a pimple on ! great slope ( ,fuji1 :i* occasionally %[$ its outl9e ?r\gh ! vague & =mless cl\ds4 ,inside x 01 at any rate1 w>m2 ! rais$ floor 0 cov]$ ) co>se matt+1 & on ?is quilts 7 spread1 & soon aft] d>k we 7 all 9 b$4 ,"s lat] arrivals _h add$ to our numb]s1 & we slept ?irte5 9 t hut1 includ+ ! ho/ & ho/ess2 b ?is 0 no?+ to ! cr[d at ! top1 :]e ,i ?9k we 7 n9ete51 p]haps m1 = 9 "s p>ts ( ! floor !re mu/ h be5 two or ?ree "u a quilt1 & x 0 difficult to c\nt !m4 ,ev5 "h on ,fuji y d n escape ! all-see+ eye ( ! ,japanese police2 y\r passport is exam9$ by ! keep]s ( ! hut1 & is copi$ into a book :i* gives e night ! names & addresses ( ^? :o sleep "u ! ro(4 ,ab\t two o'clock 9 ! morn+ we 7 wak5$ by our ho/1 :o took u outside1 & !re at la/ 0 ,fuji itself1 /raight ov] our heads1 e detail s(t5$1 b cle>ly visible1 & ! summit look+ ridicul\sly ne> 9 ! brilliant moonlight4 ,bel[ u 0 ! slope ( a%es & ! moorl& ov] :i* we _h walk$2 & 9 ! di/ance ! ,hakone ,m\nta9s1 already f> bel[ our level1 lay half hidd5 by masses ( moonlit cl\d4 ,m en]getic m5 might h />t$ at once = ! f9al climb1 b aft] gaz+ & %iv]+ = a few m9utes we turn$ into our h>d b$s aga91 & x 0 n till aft] sunrise t we left our hut1 our p>ty increas$ by a dre>y & footsore "y soldi] 9 a soil$ :ite uni=m1 & a *e]ful coolie1 c>ry+ ab\t a hundr$-weight ( planks to repair "o ( ! high] %elt]s4 ,! pa? goes zigzagg+ up to "o re/-h\se aft] ano!r1 & !re 0 n "o ( !m :i* we fail$ to patronize2 ev5 ,numb] ,sev51 :i* 0 a heap ( ru9s ) no?+ 9 ! way ( dr9k b a tub ( melt$ sn[1 0 an excuse = a few m9utes' halt4 ,9 ! cle> morn+ sunlight ,fuji look$ small1 z mo/ m\nta9s d :5 !re are no cl\ds to give my/]y & sugge/ height2 b x 0 a gr& morn+ = di/ant views1 & ! sun%9e br\ght out vividly ! /range & brilliant colors ( ! v>i\s mat]ials :i* =m ! m\nta9--gray a%es1 blue lava1 & ! r$s & oranges ( burn$ e>?4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fuji ,,) ,,its ,,cap ,,on ,above ! sev5? /ation ! pa? turns to ! left & passes beh9d ,hoei-zan2 already b&s ( pilgrims1 :o _h se5 ! sunrise f ! summit1 7 mak+ _! way back t[>ds ,gotemba1 go+ at a great pace d[n ! glissade ( loose s& & a%es on its side1 :ile we toil$ on ov] h>d] c9d]s1 ) an occasional ridge ( lava1 on ! upw>d pa?4 ,at ?is altitude ! knotwe$ & ?i/les _h disappe>$1 & ! only plants ,i saw 7 a dw>f s$ge & a little />wort 9 "s ( ! %elt]$ nooks2 high] /ill only a few li*5s & mosses c gr[2 !re is no regul> alp9e flora on ,fuji4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fuji ,,f ,,! ,,kawagu*i ,,lake ,a big gully full ( sn[ lies j bel[ ,numb] ,eight1 & f ?is po9t ! asc5t is /eep] ?an ev]1 w9d+ among a *aos ( %apeless blocks ( lava2 a %>p spur on our left cr[n$ ) !m made a mo/ curi\s outl9e aga9/ ! sky4 ,9 front ( u 0 a /range pilgrim1 an old & feeble ,buddhi/ prie/ 9 canonicals & a big cane hat2 two coolies 7 haul+ him by a cord r\nd 8 wai/1 & ano!r 0 pu%+ f beh9d1 & ev5 ) ?is help he _h to /op e few m9utes to get 8 w9d4 ,he smil$ a sickly smile z we w5t by2 he 0 ev5 sl[] ?an we 71 & x seem$ cruel to pass him2 b he got to ! top f9ally4 ,a %>p pull up a rocky gully at la/ br\ght u to a little wood5 torii1 & to ! 8,fam\s ,silv] ,wat]10 a cle>1 cold spr+ on ! edge ( ! crat]4 ,! supply is n l>ge1 & ! prie/ 9 *>ge ( ! enclosure doles x out to pilgrims at ! rate ( "o brass ca% = a small teacupful4 ,! pr9cipal temple1 & ! clu/] ( huts r\nd x1 =m a little squ>e on ! s\? side ( ! crat]1 j at ! top ( ! ,mura-yama pa?1 & are rea*$ f ! ,silv] ,wat] by means ( a c\ple ( ladd]s & a small fee4 ,at ! top ( ! ladd]s !re is a t9y %r9e1 s]v+ z /able to a toy model ( a horse1 & 9 front ( ?is ! copp]s are deposit$4 ,!re are only ?ree entrances to ! crat] ( ,fuji1 & ea* ( ^! is m>k$ by a small torii1 ! sacr$ gateway ( ! ,%9to religion2 two ( !m ,i h already m5tion$1 ! ?ird is on ! nor? side1 :]e ! pa?s f ,yo%ida & ,suba%iri1 :i* meet at ,numb] ,eight /ation1 rea* ! summit4 ,cl\ds _h1 z usual1 begun to =m ab\t mid-day1 & !re 7 only occasional peeps ( di/ance1 b ! crat] itself 0 wor?y ( ! j\rney1 & occupi$ u until ! bitt]ly cold w9d drove u to %elt]4 ,"h1 z on o!r m\nta9s1 ,i notic$ t ! fir/ object ( ! native is to get "u cov]2 all ! k+doms ( ! _w & ! glory ( !m may be spread be=e 8 eyes1 b if !re is a little smoky cab91 h[ev] r\gh & uncom=table1 ! pr(essional m\nta9e] goes inside & /ays !re4 ,?is "o 0 n luxuri\s2 ne> ! doorway1 ! only ap]ture = admitt+ light1 !re 0 a sm\ld]+ wood-fire1 :]e our food 0 cook$ be=e we lay d[n to try & re/ on ! loose & creaky floor-bo>ds2 little bla/s came l squirts ( cold wat] ?r\gh ! cracks ( ! unmort>$ walls1 & x 0 a relief :5 a g5]al movem5t ( ! sleep]s--= a ,japanese c app>5tly sleep any:]e--%[$ ! approa* ( sunrise4 ,! morn+ 0 cle> & bright1 & we all cr\*$ 9 nooks ( ! rocks1 wrapp$ 9 our quilts1 & gaz$ at ! /raight gray l9e ( ! ,pacific & ! gradually bright5+ l9e above x1 wat*+ = ! fir/ sign ( ! approa*+ god4 ,on ! mo/ prom95t rock a prie/ knelt1 wav+ /rips ( pap] ti$ to a /ick & *ant+ pray]s & eulogies1 & soon ! sun rose1 z he assur$ly w e morn+1 :e!r he is pray$ to or n4 ,!re ,illu/ration3 ,,f ,,! ,,top ,,( ,,fuji1 ,,look+ ,,nor? 0 su* a va/ space ( my/]i\s blue sea & di/ance bel[ ! horizon t ! big orange ball appe>$ to be already half-way up ! heav5s :5 we fir/ saw x4 ,?is daily occurr5ce seems ev] new & wond]ful1 always has some?+ ( ! miracul\s ab\t x1 & to mo/ m9ds x br+s a s5se ( ?ankfulness1 z ! sunset gives t ( repose2 ?\gh :y we %\ld feel grateful bo? t x is "t to beg9 to "w & "t to leave (f is a puzzle to me4 ,my ?\ghts turn$ to an e>ly morn+ ne> ,plevna1 & to an hone/ ,turk1 :o1 z ! sun rose ov] ! b>e ,bulg>ian hills1 turn$ on 8 box-seat1 &1 gravely t\*+ 8 =ehead1 wi%$ a good-day to 8 8little bro!rs0 9 ! c>riage he 0 driv+4 ,!re 0 a mixture ( c\rte\sness & solemnity 9 8 mann] :i* seem$ exactly suit$ to ! important mom5t4 ,:5 ! orange gl[ _h turn$ to a dazzl+ gl>e1 we walk$ r\nd to ! foot ( ,k5ga-m9e1 ! highe/ ( ! peaks encircl+ ! crat]1 & look$ we/w>d at ! %ad[ ( ,fuji1 a great pyramid ( t5d] blue /ret*+ = miles across ! c\ntry at its foot1 d>k5+ a slice ( ! sunlit di/ant m\nta9s1 & t[]+ above !m into ! sky1 cle>ly def9$ on ! light mi/s & cl\ds ( ! horizon4 ,s %>p 0 ! outl9e t x seem$ z if our two %ad[s ought to %[ on ! di/ant sky2 b ?\gh we wav$ our arms frantically !re 0 no visible movem5t on ! edge2 we 7 too small4 ,:5 we return$ to get "s breakfa/ _m ( ! pilgrims 7 say+ _! morn+ pray]s at ! little temple4 8,s5g5 ,sama0 is ! goddess ( ,fuji2 a pretti] "n = h] is 8,ko no hana saku ya ,hime0--8! pr9cess :o makes ! blossoms ( ! trees to op540 ,!re is ano!r little temple d$icat$ to h] on ! nor? side ( ! crat]1 & _m m impos+ ones 9 v>i\s p>ts ( ,japan4 ,on a bann] :i* float$ 9 front ( ?is second temple !re 0 an inscription 9 ,japanese1 & "u x ^! words 9 ,engli%1 8,place = wor%ip ! ,heav540 ,i suppose ?is 0 an ef=t 9 ! direction ( civilization & rationalism1 b ,i res5t$ x z an attempt to expla9 away ! fl[]-lov+ pr9cess1 & to de?rone h] f ! m\nta9-top :]e %e has be5 wor%ipp$ 9 peace = s _m c5turies4 ,close by ! bann] is ano!r spr+1 8,! ,fam\s ,gold5 ,wat]10 & a small %$1 :]e bundles ( *op/icks & o!r mem5tos are sold1 & :]e = t5 s5 y c buy a t9 c full ( ! fam\s wat] to take home to y\r fri5ds4 ,mo/ ( ! desc5d+ pilgrims h "o or two ( ^! t9s slung r\nd !m ) ! re/ ( _! travell+-kit4 ,! regul> ,fuji pilgrim is dress$ 9 a :ite tunic ) loose sleeves1 close-fitt+ :ite cotton draw]s1 :ite socks & gait]s1 & a pair ( /raw s&als2 he we>s ! usual big hat1 :i* s]ves z an umbrella1 & slung r\nd 8 %\ld]s he has a light ru% mat1 :i* c be %ift$ to ei!r side to keep (f sun or ra94 ,r\nd 8 neck he has a /r+ ( beads1 a little incessantly t9kl+ bell1 & a few pairs ( extra s&als on a cord1 & fa/5$ to 8 wai/b& is ! small package conta9+ 8 p]sonal baggage2 he c>ries 9 8 h& ei!r ! octagonal bir* /aff or a ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,great ,,palm ,,at ,,ryugeji1 ,,fuji ,,9 ,,! ,,di/ance long] peel$ w&1 ) "s pap] ti$ r\nd ! end ( x4 ,! dress ( ! wom5 is ! same z t ( ! m51 except t !y we> a %ort petticoat "u ! tunic1 ab\t z long z a ,highl&]'s kilt4 ,i saw none ( !m adorn$ ) ! bell & beads1 s p]haps ^! are res]v$ = ! m54 ,x is only ( late ye>s t wom5 h be5 all[$ to climb ! sacr$ m\nta94 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,crat] ,,( ,,fuji ,no "o po9t ( ! crat]'s edge is high en\gh to give a panorama2 y h to walk all r\nd1 ab\t two miles1 9 ord] to see ! view on e side4 ,ea/w>d is ! c\ntry r\nd ,yokohama & ,tky1 ) ! ,pacific beyond z horizon2 s\?w>d1 too1 is ! ocean1 ) ! ,izu ,p59sula jutt+ out into x1 & ! sweep ( ,suruga ,bay br++ x close "u y\r feet2 we/w>d y get a glimpse ( ! ,fujikawa ,riv]1 ) range aft] range ( m\nta9s beh9d x2 & to ! nor?w>d a *a9 ( little lakes lies at ! base ( ,fuji1 ^!1 too1 back$ up by m\nta9s1 :i* rise1 "o beh9d ano!r1 z f> z y c see4 ,9 "s places ! out] wall desc5ds abruptly into ! crat]2 9 o!rs1 z by ! ,gold5 ,wat]1 !re is a n>r[ plateau betwe5 ! two4 ,! crat] itself is f\r or five hundr$ feet deep1 ! nor? side mo/ly precipit\s rock1 & ! s\? side1 "u ,k5ga-m9e1 a /eep slope ( sn[ & dbris2 all ! peaks r\nd x h names1 & "o ( !m ne> ! ,silv] ,wat] is dott$ ) cairns rais$ 9 honor ( ,jiz1 ! patron sa9t ( travell]s1 :o helps little *ildr5 to cross ! ,buddhi/ ,/yx4 ,!re is a r\gh pa? all r\nd ! crat]1 lead+ ov] "s ( ! peaks1 inside "s1 & outside o!rs1 :i* is kept 9 passable condition by m5 :o collect a few copp]s = _! labor3 ! pilgrim season is h>ve/-"t = ! dwell]s r\nd ,fuji1 & its b>r5 top pays well = cultivation4 ,x 0 aft] t5 o'clock be=e we _h made ! circuit & se5 all ! sights2 we met our coolies by ! long r[ ( huts at ! top ( ! ,yo%ida pa?1 & c\ld see ! village itself1 our de/9ation1 ly+ 9 ! blue holl[ bel[ u4 ,gr\ps ( asc5d+ & desc5d+ pilgrims 7 visible = a long di/ance on ! slope2 z we look$ d[n on !m we saw only big r\nd hats ) an arm /ick+ out1 & two little feet work+ und]nea?4 ,aft] a f9al cup ( tea at "o ( ! gue/-h\ses we pass$ "u ! wood5 torii1 & began ! desc5t1 a v /eep & /ony "o1 ! loose c9d]s & lumps ( lava requir+ att5tion at e foot/ep4 ,at ,numb] ,n9e /ation !re is a little %r9e call$ 8,s5g5's ,welcome10 & at ,numb] ,eight !re are six or eight good-siz$ huts built on a spur ( h>d] lava1 mak+ q a little village1 :i* c be se5 on a cle> morn+ f ! foot ( ! m\nta94 ,"h ! ,suba%iri r\te bran*es (f to ! "r2 ours to ,yo%ida turn$ to ! left1 & we w5t slid+ ) long /rides d[n an incl9e ( loose a%es & s&1 into :i* our legs sank up to ! knee at e /ep4 ,x 0 rapid b fatigu+1 & requir$ v high /epp+ to avoid heavy & ignom9i\s falls4 ,! track is m>k$ by hundr$s ( ca/-(f 8w>aji0--/raw s&als--a common object on all ,japanese roads1 b "h especially pl5tiful4 ,my companion _h provid$ himself 9 ,yokohama ) a /ock ( !m1 specially made to fit ov] ! ,european boot2 !y 7 c>efully adju/$ & ti$ on by our s]vants & port]s1 b ,i notic$ t aft] ! fir/ hundr$ y>ds !y _h always work$ loose1 & aft] a qu>t] ( a mile !y 7 hang+ gracefully r\nd 8 ankles in/ead ( protect+ 8 feet4 ,! enjoym5t ( walk+ dep5ds s mu* ^u foot-ge> t ,i am %y ( try+ exp]im5ts1 & ,i f\nd t my /\t boots ) pl5ty ( nails s]v$ z well on ,fuji z on any o!r m\nta94 ,worn z ,japanese we> !m1 ) a ?ong pass+ betwe5 ! big toe & ! next1 ! w>aji hold on well2 !y are soon worn out1 or made useless by ! break+ ( "o ( ! /r+s ( twi/$ grass :i* tie !m to ! ankles2 b ?is does n matt]1 = new ones c be b\ght = ab\t a half-p5ny at any road-side h\se4 ,?is "p ( ,fuji 0 v desolate1 ! rocks 7 =mless blocks pil$ up )\t any arrangem5t ( l9e1 & ! dbris 0 too loose = any plant to f9d a foo?old2 b aft] a few ?\s& feet a ridge ( m solid lava rose on ea* side ( ! gully we 7 desc5d+1 & ,illu/ration3 ,,an ,,old ,,r$ ,,p9e ,,at ,,yo%ida t on our left soon began to %[ "s vegetation4 ,!re 7 p9es & l>*es1 ^: dw>f$ & twi/$ =ms %[$ ! h>d%ip ( _! lives1 & among !m 7 "s fl[]s too1 clu/]s ( a delicate p9k rhodod5dron1 crimson wild roses1 columb9es1 clematis1 gold5-rod1 & orange lilies4 ,! glissade ( f9e a%es br\ght u d[n z f> z ,numb] ,five /ation1 & !re we rejo9$ ! upw>d pa?1 = no "o tries to asc5d ov] ?is loose /uff4 ,high up 9 ! gully we _h se5 m5 digg+ out sn[ f "u ! a%es1 & tak+ x across ! flank ( ! m\nta9 to supply "o ( ! re/-h\ses on ! ridge to our "r1 & troops ( asc5d+ pilgrims 7 visible n[ & !n z a turn ( _! pa? br\ght !m 9 pr(ile aga9/ ! sky4 ,bel[ ,numb] ,five !re is b "o track2 x plunges at once into a ?ick und]gr[? ( bu%es1 & aft] ?is we _h no m desolate wa/es ( a%es1 b a con/ant succession ( trees & fl[]s1 temples1 & luxuri\s re/-h\ses1 gay ) ! cotton flags pres5t$ to !m by _! patrons4 ,! =e/ ?r\gh :i* ?is pa? leads cov]s a /eep ridge ( lava2 ! trees are mo/ly p9e & o!r conif]s1 (t5 v f9e old specim5s1 & "u !m is a tangle ( fl[]+ %rubs & plants & ( fall5 timb]4 ,! p we met com+ up seem$ to appe> sudd5ly "u our feet out ( ! gre5 gloom2 "o p>ty _h always to draw aside :ile ! o!r pass$2 at times ! pa? 0 a /airway ( old roots1 at o!rs a dit* betwe5 high banks1 & nev] wide en\gh = two to walk abrea/4 ,we he>d a s\nd ( s++ bel[ u1 & /ood on ! bank :ile ab\t tw5ty :ite-clad pilgrims fil$ by1 m5 ( all ages1 ea* ) a little bell t9kl+ at 8 wai/2 ! front ones *ant$ a %ort /ra91 :i* ^? at ! back took up & answ]$1 & _! song 0 fa9tly audible 9 ! woods above u long aft] ! la/ _h disappe>$ up ! w9d+ pa?4 ,! *ant is call$ 8,rokkon %j0--! six s5ses purifi$--! six1 accord+ to ! ,buddhi/s1 be+ eyes1 e>s1 nose1 tongue1 body1 & he>t1 & x is only sung by ! ,fuji pilgrims4 ,at ,numb] ,two /ation we made a long halt1 empti$ ! a%es out ( our boots1 & wa%$ our feet 9 ! tubs ( wat] :i* ! little s]vants br\ght u4 ,x 0 a v diff]5t k9d ( place f ! r\gh %elt] on ! ,gotemba side2 ! pa? came d[n a few /eps z x em]g$ f ! wood1 pass$ "u a torii by a small temple1 & !n spread out into q a wide space 9 front ( a long tea-h\se cr[d$ ) pilgrims4 ,on ! opposite side ( ?is space 7 ?ree or f\r plat=ms1 spread ) blankets & %ad$ ) matt+2 ^! too 7 occupi$ by gr\ps ( gue/s1 :o smok$ & drank tea z !y re/$1 & bel[ !m ! tops ( ! trees 7 cut away to give a space ( op5 sky & a view ( ! di/ance4 ,hundr$s ( little flags 7 flutt]+ f long bamboo poles1 & at ! o!r end ( ?is lively sc5e ! pa? w5t d[n a few m /eps1 & became aga9 a n>r[ track ?r\gh ! d5se =e/4 ,! fl[]s all ! way 7 abundant & beautiful1 con/antly v>y+ z we desc5d$ f "o zone to ano!r2 at la/ ! wood became ?9n]1 & we c\ld get glimpses ( ! di/ance1 & ( ! grassy ridges on ea* side ( u1 t+$ ) pale mauve by masses ( funkia 9 blossom2 & :5 we rea*$ ! temple & ! l>ge op5 squ>e ( ! ,uma-gae%i we 7 at ! end ( ! trees1 & be=e u 0 a great slope ( moorl& lead+ d[n = miles & miles to ! p9e grove by ,yo%ida4 ,!re is b "o break 9 ! long walk ?r\gh fl[]s & grass--a little tea-h\se call$ ,naka-no-*aya1 ^: ?ree p9e-trees are di/+ui%able = a long di/ance across ! moor4 ,all r\nd x !re are monum5tal pill>s cov]$ ,illu/ration3 ,,naka-,,no-,,*aya1 ,,on ,,! ,,nor!rn ,,slope ) inscriptions1 :i* look l tomb/ones1 b 7 really erect$ by pilgrims to commemorate ! numb] ( asc5ts :i* !y h made4 ,! v>iety ( plants :i* gr[ & fl\ri% on ?is slope ( f9e c9d]s is truly rem>kable4 ,! mo/ abundant fl[] 0 a pale mauve scabi\s1 :i* gave a prevail+ t9t to ! :ole moorl&1 b ! mo/ conspicu\s 0 a tall1 sl5d] day-lily ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,r$-,,p9e ,,grove ,,at ,,yo%ida ) a pale yell[ fl[]1 :i* %one l a /> 9 ! ev5+ :5 ! color _h gone f all ! o!rs4 ,a d>k purple-blue campanula 7,platycodon gr&iflorum7 0 also v effective1 & a bright crimson p9k 7,dian?us sup]bus7 ) beautifully fr+$ petals4 ,b x w\ld be hopeless to try & enum]ate !m4 ,i f9d 9 a sket*book a li/ ( fifty-sev5 :i* ,i not$ on ! way betwe5 ,naka-no-*aya & ,yo%ida4 ,a little lat] 9 ! ye> ?is mass ( fl[]s & grass is m[n d[n & c>ri$ to ! villages at ! foot ( ! m\nta94 ,! la/ "p ( our walk 0 ?r\gh a grove ( gr& r$ p9es1 :i* seem to d bett] on ?is volcanic soil ?an any:]e else 9 ,japan1 & !n across a few fields to ! top ( ! long village /reet1 :]e we at la/ f\nd our tea-h\se & our baggage1 & com=table rooms1 & settl$ d[n = a night ( well-e>n$ repose4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fuji ,,ov] ,,! ,,rice-,,fields ,,( ,,suzukawa ,,fuji ,,f ,,suzukawa4 ,oct4 #c1 #ahib4 ,fuji is q free f cl\ds ?is morn+1 & 9 ! s(t autumnal sun%9e e detail is cle>ly visible z ,i sit ) ! %utt]s wide op5 & eat my breakfa/4 ,! =egr\nd is a level pla9 ( rice-fields1 :i* /ret*es away = ?ree or f\r miles to :]e ! fir/ g5tle asc5t is m>k$ by a l9e ( villages & trees1 & 9 "s ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,fl[]y ,,moorl& places1 :]e irrigation is possible1 ! t]rac$ fields climb a little way up ! m\nta94 ,above !m is a b& ( cultivat$ c\ntry1 ! g5]al effect ( x d>k gre51 v>i$ by /ripes ( pal] gre5 fields4 ,at fir/ ! =ms are %>ply def9$1 b high] up ! :ole becomes a blue-gre5 mass4 ,next above ?is is a b& ( moorl& ) no trees on x1 light] & w>m] 9 color1 ! grasses & plants :i* cov] x t+$ ) yell[ or orange by ! autumn4 ,z ! morn+ sun %9es on x little blue %ad[s1 9 spots & wav+ l9es1 m>k ! undulations ( its surface4 ,?is belt ( moorl& rea*es to ! height ( ab\t five ?\s& feet1 & is v ri* 9 fl[]s4 ,above x1 aga91 is a great b& ( =e/2 ! w>m color ( ! decidu\s trees at its l[] edge gradually m]ges into ! d>k blue-gre5 ( ! p9es1 :i* m\nt a long way up on ! summits ( ! ridges t at ?is po9t seam ! surface ( ! m\nta94 ,x is ov] ?is =e/-l& t ! morn+ cl\ds g5]ally beg9 to =m4 ,z ,i write1 a little "o1 t looks l a puff ( :ite /eam1 is beg9n+ to float ov] ! trees1 & ?is w gr[ until 9 an h\r's "t ! upp] "p ( ,fuji w be invisible4 ,! well-def9$ gullies are a light orange-r$ t9t1 & ! contra/ betwe5 !m & ! d>k p9es on ! divid+ ridges is ! /ronge/ opposition ( color on ,fuji1 except t :]e ! sn[ & ! black lava meet at its summit4 ,z ! gullies asc5d & ! p9es disappe> ! color aga9 becomes m uni=m1 d>k gray ) a t+e ( ,indian r$1 ! r$ disappe>+ & ! gray becom+ a ri* purple z x runs up 9 irregul> po9ts & l9es among ! l[] sn[s4 ,only ! v highe/ b& is a solid :ite2 on ! left ( ! truncat$ top is ,k5ga-m9e1 ! highe/ po9t ( ! crat]'s edge1 & next x a flat l9e %[s :]e ! ,murayama pa? ent]s2 to ! "r ( ?is a well-m>k$ ridge ( lava runs high up into ! sn[1 & c be trac$ d[n to ! moorl&1 cutt+ (f ! ,heizan portion f ! re/ ( ! m\nta94 ,beyond ?is ridge are two flatt] curves--! summits ( ,jizotak & ,kwannon-tak--on ! ea/]n side ( ! crat]4 ,! g5]al outl9e ( ! m\nta9 on ! left is "o simple curve1 ! almo/ level l9e :]e x beg9s to asc5d f ! ,fujikawa ,riv] becom+ /eep] & /eep] t[>ds ! top4 ,! mo/ di/9ct accel]ation ( grade is :]e ! =e/s end & ! ridges ( lava beg94 ,! outl9e on ! "r is brok5 j above ! p9e-clad ridges by ! projection ( ,heizan1 & aga9 at ! top ( ! moorl& by ano!r small] hill--,tsurugi-zan2 & ! effect on ?is side is n s mu* a curve z two incl9$ planes1 ! fir/ f ,kwannon-tak to ,heizan1 ! second f !re to ! moorl&1 aft] :i* x becomes an undulat+ l9e ( m\nds lead+ away to ! ,a%itaka range ( old] m\nta9s4 ,on ?is "r side !re is mu* less v>iety ( color1 a %>p ridge ( w>m orange lava makes a cre/ to ,heizan1 b ! great cup-l holl[ beh9d x & ! treeless slope bel[ x are "o uni=m gray4 ,ne>ly two c5turies h pass$ s9ce ! eruption :i* alt]$ ?is outl9e ( ,fuji & de/roy$ ! vegetation1 & _m m w h to elapse be=e ! a%es are suffici5tly dis9tegrat$ to entice back ! trees & fl[]s4 ,illu/ration ,,"s ,,w&]+s ,,9 ,,japan ,illu/ration3 ,,tricyrtis ,,hirta1 ,,atami ,,"s ,,w&]+s ,,9 ,,japan ,illu/ration ,! lakes :i* lie to ! nor? ( ,fuji are n mu* visit$ by =eign]s2 !y are r difficult ( access1 & ! accommodation 9 ! tea-h\ses 9 t di/rict is n luxuri\s2 b = ^? :o c walk well1 & put up ) ord9>y ,japanese food & lodg+1 ! sc5]y w atone = ev]y?+4 ,! old hills on ! nor? once look$ ov] a great slop+ pla9 to ! %ore ( ,suruga ,bay1 b ! up/>t ,fuji arose & block$ _! view to ! s\?2 /reams ( lava p\r$ f x1 & roll$ d[n till !y 7 /opp$ by ^! buttresses ( anci5t rock1 damm+ ! riv]s1 & s =m+ ?is *a9 ( lakes at _! base4 ,:]e ! lava has be5 cov]$ ) f9e a%es1 vegetation soon beg9s to conceal ! "w ( de/ruction1 b ! l>g] fl[s resi/ all attempts at cultivation2 !y /ill /& 9 wide ridges above ! re/ ( ! c\ntry1 gray li*5s cov] !m1 & dw>f$ trees f9d a foo?old 9 ! crevices betwe5 _! blocks4 ,! w9d+ tracks :i* lead across !m are bad en\gh1 = e little hump 9 ! pa? is n a pebble :i* rolls aside z y\r foot t\*es x1 b is a knob ( solid rock1 & x is y\r toe t has to give way2 ! untrodd5 "p ( ! scrubby =e/ w\ld /op any animal b an active monkey4 ,we trav]s$ "o ( ! wide/ fl[s1 call$ ,aoki-ga-h>a 7gre5-tree moor71 f ! numb] ( ev]gre5s :i* gr[ ov] x1 on ! way betwe5 ,%oji1 ! smalle/1 & ,motosu1 ! l>ge/ ( ! lakes1 walk+ = h\rs 9 s+le file along a n>r[ trail ) h>dly an op5+ any:]e 9 ! d5se foliage2 x 0 late 9 ! ev5+1 & ! imprecations 9 ,japanese & ,engli% ought to h ?r[n a lurid light on t dusky pa?4 ,! divid+-l9e betwe5 ! lava & ! old] rock is z cle>ly visible n[ z x 0 on t day :5 ! molt5 torr5t 0 arre/$ 9 its c\rse & pil$ itself 9 a solid wave aga9/ ! immovable hills4 ,"s subt]ranean settl+ mu/ /ill be go+ on1 = a few ye>s ago ! lakes began to rise1 & !y h rema9$ at ! high] level1 s t z we r[$ along ! %ore we c\ld see bel[ u ! ro(s ( cottages & ! f5ces ( rice-fields1 & =e/s ( dead p9es rose gaunt & b>e out ( ! wat]4 ,( all ! places ,i saw 9 ,japan1 ,motosu seem$ ! mo/ remote2 ! rise ( ! lake mu/ h ru9$ _m ( ! inhabitants1 & a settl$ gloom seem$ to hang ov] ! few *>coal-burn]s1 wood-cutt]s1 & fi%]m5 :o rema94 ,we f\nd rooms 9 an old tea-h\se1 :]e f9e wood-"w1 n[ black5$ & decay$1 %[$ signs ( a =m] prosp]ity :i* w h>dly revive unless prices rise1 = :5 we left ! next morn+ ! l&lord sadly pres5t$ u ) a bill = n9ete5 s5 7ab\t sixp5ce71 :i* = two =eign]s & two s]vants came to a v mode/ sum p] head4 ,we cross$ ! lake by boat1 & 7 l&$ at ! foot ( a trackless hill-side1 ov]gr[n ) tall grasses & wild fl[]s1 ?r\gh :i* x 0 difficult to walk1 b our local guides soon f\nd a pa? :i* l$ u 9 ! direction ( ! ,fujikawa4 ,"h we 7 (f ! volcanic soil1 ! bee*es & o!r trees 7 magnific5t1 & 9 "o wood we walk$ betwe5 banks ( maid5hair f]n 7,adiantum p$atum7 gr[+ five or six feet high4 ,h[ well ,i rememb] t day ( glori\s sun%9e1 ! view back ov] ! lake ) ,fuji t[]+ ,illu/ration3 ,,tago-,,no-,,ura beh9d x1 ! m\nta9 road ?r\gh =e/s ) new trees & plants at e turn1 ! gaudy butt]flies1 ! long zigzag desc5t by ! p9e-clad spur :i* br\ght u to ! ,suzukawa ,valley1 & ! gorge\s sunset z we :irl$ d[n ! rapids to ,%imoyama4 ,!re are five lakes 9 ! *a91 ,motosu1 ,%oji1 ,nemba1 ,kawagu*i1 & ,yamanaka1 & !y desc5d 9 level f ,motosu on ! we/ to ,yamanaka on ! ea/4 ,nemba lies 9 a holl[ ( wood$ hills1 ) a c\ple ( p>tially dr[n$ villages on its %ore1 9 :i* ! cottage ro(s are /rangely con/ruct$1 & ! p we> long knick]bock]s ( blue /rip$ cotton4 ,kawagu*i is ! mo/ beautiful ( !m all2 its wat]s h only ris5 a foot or two1 s t no damage has be5 done except ! subm]sion ( a few fields1 & ,funatsu & ,koda*i1 ) picturesque old temples & cottages %ad$ ) g\rds1 l ,jonah's1 are ?riv+ t[ns comp>$ ) ! o!r lake-side hamlets4 ,illu/ration3 ,,cottages ,,at ,,nemba ,i 0 /ay+ at ,yo%ida1 )9 easy walk+ di/ance ( ,funatsu1 9 ! e>ly "p ( ,septemb]1 :5 all ! c\ntryside 0 keep+ ! ,bon fe/ival 9 memory ( ! dead--a sort ( ,japanese ,all-,s\ls day :i* la/s = a week4 ,fires 7 light$ at night on all ! hill-sides2 ! pa? lead+ up to e little temple c\ld be trac$ by a l9e ( blaz+ spots1 & ! great lonely slope ( ,fuji 0 dott$ ) !m "h & !re1 m>k+ ! positions ( ! re/-h\ses & ! few scatt]$ huts ( grass-cutt]s & *>coal-burn]s4 ,i h se5 ! same ?+ 9 ,switz]l&1 ne> ,m>tigny1 :]e on ! eve ( ,/4 ,john's day e cattle-t5d] f> up ! m\nta9s greet$ 8 di/ant neighbors ) a bonfire4 ,?is "p ( ! c]emony is call$1 9 ,japanese1 hi-matsuri 7fire fe/ival74 ,o!r obs]vances are plac+ (f]+s ( food be=e ! family graves1 :i* 9 ,yo%ida 7 g5]ally at ! end ( ! back g>d51 & erect+ a little alt> 9 ! h\se1 on :i* di%es ( rice1 fruit1 & sweetmeats are laid1 & be=e :i* pray]s are said4 ,we _h a typhoon on ! #d? ( ,septemb]1 ) su* torr5ts ( ra9 & gu/s ( w9d t ! h\ses _h to be enclos$ ) _! wood5 %utt]s1 & !re 0 no?+ to be done b lie on ! floor 9 ! d>kness & li/5 to ! turmoil ( ! elem5ts outside4 ,sudd5ly1 above all ! o!r noises1 ,i he>d a monoton\s *ant1 &1 op5+ a crack 9 my %utt]s1 ,i saw a procession ( m51 dress$ only 9 8kasa0 & /raw ra9-coats pass+ d[n ! village /reet4 ,"s ( !m c>ri$ big drums slung to poles1 on :i* ! o!rs bang$1 :ile all ( !m groan$ 9 unison a s5t5ce :i* ,i c\ld n cat*4 ,x 0 a long "t be=e ,i c\ld induce ,matsuba to tell me :at x all meant2 b at la/ he confess$ t x 0 done to drive away ! /orm-demon2 he 0 evid5tly a%am$ ( ?is me?od ( pray+ = fair wea!r1 & expla9$ t x 0 only 9 ^! out-(-!-way places 8 c\ntrym5 7 s sup]/iti\s4 ,anyh[1 x 0 efficaci\s1 = ! typhoon blew itself out dur+ ! night4 ,!re 0 m or less ra9 = "s days aft]1 b we _h no?+ aga9 l t day's d[np\r1 & ,i />t$ 9 m promis+ wea!r = a walk ov] ! hills to ,k(u4 ,f ,funatsu ,i cross$ a corn] ( ,kawagu*i1 & took a /eep m\nta9 road on ! o!r side2 "s k9d ( matsuri 0 go+ on !re too1 & ! lake 0 dott$ ) boatfuls ( p beat+ drums & s++4 ,! road we took is said 9 ! guide-books to be practicable = j9riki%as1 b ! typhoon _h complet$ ! "w ( de/ruction :i* ! heavy ra9s 9 ,july _h begun1 & !re 7 v few y>ds ( x left ov] :i* a :eel$ vehicle c\ld travel4 ,on ! o!r side ( ! pass1 ,misaka-toge1 :]e ,i /ay$ to lun* & admire ! view ( ,fuji1 & to collect se$s ( a gr& r$ ly*nis :i* grew !re abundantly1 we w5t ?r\gh a village1 ,nakagawa1 t _h be5 almo/ de/roy$ by a torr5t4 ,! /reet & ! g>d5s 7 fill$ ) b[ld]s & gravel & fall5 tree trunks1 & ! ro(s only 7 visible above ! mass ( wreckage4 ,! well-fitt$ timb]s ( a ,japanese ro(1 especially :5 !re is a heavy ?at* ov] !m1 make x ! lea/ de/ructible "p ( ! h\se2 ! l[] "p may collapse 9 a typhoon or e>?quake1 b ! ro( settles d[n ov] ! ru9s practically un9jur$4 ,i saw "o ne> ! ,tokaido :i* _h be5 tak5 (f bodily by ! w9d & deposit$ 9 a field ! o!r side ( ! road )\t los+ its %ape4 ,i look$ = ! riv] :i* _h done all ?is damage to ,nakagawa1 & f\nd only a little1 innoc5t1 prattl+ brook ab\t a y>d wide4 ,k(u is a busy place 9 ! c5tre ( a l>ge silk-gr[+ di/rict4 ,all ! hill-sides ar\nd are cov]$ ) scrubby-look+ mulb]ry bu%es1 & 9 ! villages almo/ e cottage _h its pile ( gold5 cocoons1 :i* ! wom5 7 w9d+ (f into ske9s z !y sat & *att]$ by _! doorways4 ,z y pass ,japanese h\ses 9 f9e wea!r y see almo/ ev]y?+ t is go+ on inside2 !y are set d[n close to ! road1 & ! slid+-scre5s all[ y to look "r ?r\gh to ! g>d5 at ! back4 ,:5 x is cold or wet all ! wood5 %utt]s are clos$1 & !y h !n a v sad & des]t$ appe>ance4 ,i w5t to a v good !atre 9 ,k(u1 & aft]w>ds to :at might be call$ a wax-"w %[1 b t ! figures 7 ,illu/ration3 ,,lake ,,suwa ,,& ,,! ,,nakas5do ,,m\nta9s1 ,,f ,,kami-,,no-,,suwa made ( c>v$ & pa9t$ wood1 :]e ! incid5ts ( ! murd] ( ,ii-,kamonno-,kami 7 repres5t$ ) a />tl+ fidelity to nature4 ,he 0 assass9at$ "o w9t]'s night 9 ! /reets ( ,tky by ! reta9]s ( a rival ,daimio1 & ! sn[y gr\nd %[$ to advantage all ! details ( disemb[ell$ bodies & mangl$ limbs4 ,! la/ two figures 7 me*anical4 ,a reta9] kneel+ 9 front ( ! ,daimio sl[ly op5$ a bloody h&k]*ief & %[$ him ! head ( 8 enemy1 :]eupon ! ,daimio's eyebr[s w5t up & ! corn]s ( 8 m\? w5t d[n1 giv+ him a mo/ comical expression ( horror4 ,! roads are wid] "h ?an 9 mo/ p>ts ( ,japan1 & !re are comp>atively few j9riki%as4 ,mo/ ( ! travell+ is done 9 ba%a1 small wagonettes ) no spr+s1 :i* jolt ! v life out ( y4 ,i engag$ "o to take me on to ,lake ,suwa1 on ! ,nakas5do road1 a j\rney ( =ty miles1 & arriv$ !re feel+ l an a*+ jelly4 ,aft] travell+ a few miles f ,k(u we came to a riv] :]e ! bridge _h be5 wa%$ away4 ,i & my baggage 7 f]ri$ ov]1 & ! driv] attempt$ to =d x1 b ! wat] 0 too deep = him1 & ,i 0 left /r&$ ) my imp$im5ta on a wide wa/e ( pebbles4 ,=tunately ! man ) :om ,i _h made my b>ga9 _h =ese5 ?is possibility1 & :5 ,i c\ld get "s coolies to help me ) my baggage across half a mile ( /ones & b[ld]s1 ,i f\nd ano!r ba%a wait+ = me4 ,all ! fir/ "p ( ! j\rney 0 a long asc5t ?r\gh wood$1 hilly c\ntry1 ) road-side villages at %ort int]vals4 ,9 "o ( !m1 ,tsutaki1 :]e we /opp$ to *ange horses1 a s*ool treat 0 go+ on4 ,! place 0 gayly decorat$ ) lant]ns & ar*es ( leaves & pap] fl[]s1 & 9 ! temple c\rt-y>d ! *ildr5 _h made reali/ic figures1 among !m a life-siz$ tig]1 +5i\sly con/ruct$ ) /raws ( diff]5t colors4 ,! l[ wood5 cottages1 ) broad eaves & /ones pil$ on ! top1 look$ v l ,swiss *alets1 except t !y all _h gre5 ro( cre/s1 sometimes ( iris1 b m (t5 ( a bun*y k9d ( lycopodium :i* ! natives call$ yuwa%iba4 ,almo/ e "o _h a scre5 ( bamboo on ! s\? side1 ) g\rds ( diff]5t k9ds gr[+ up x & tumbl+ ov] ! ro( & ! out-build+s4 ,at la/1 ) long spells ( walk+1 v welcome z a re/ f ! we>y jolt+1 we rea*$ ! tea-h\se at ! top ( ! pass1 & !n rattl$ d[n a some:at bett] road = ab\t twelve miles1 em]g+ at dusk into ! broad m\nta9-gu>d$ valley 9 :i* ,suwa lies4 ,! flat l&s ne> ! lake are int]sect$ by little /reams & canals1 along :i* ! peasants g to _! "w 9 long1 n>r[ punts1 v l ^? :i* are us$ = ! same purpose 9 ,pic>dy--ano!r in/ance ( ! way 9 :i* simil> conditions 9 widely di/ant c\ntries lead to simil> habits & inv5tions4 ,i /ay$ at ,kami-no-suwa 9 a delightful tea-h\se1 ) clean poli%$ wood-"w1 & quilts cov]$ ) a s(t ?9 silk call$ kaiki1 v pleasant & cool+ to a mosquito-tortur$ sk94 ,cleanl9ess is ! great luxury ( ! ,japanese2 _! foot-ge> is always remov$ be=e ent]+ ! h\se1 s t ! mats may n be soil$2 ! wood-"w is nev] pa9t$1 /a9$1 or v>ni%$1 b left ) a well-plan$ surface1 :i* %[s its natural color2 ! ceil+s are ?9 planks1 slightly ov]lapp+ ea* o!r1 ! gra9 ( ea* be+ c>efully select$ to comb9e ) ! l9es 9 ^? next x2 !re are no hang+s or fix$ pieces ( furniture to collect ! du/1 & no c>pets to be tak5 up & %ak51 s t spr+ clean+1 t t]ror ( ! ,we/]n h\se-keep]1 is unnecess>y2 ! :ole room c be swept out e morn+1 ! walls & ceil+ rubb$ ) a du/]1 & !re x is1 all z neat z a ,illu/ration3 ,,t\ri/s ,,at ,a ,,wat]fall ,illu/ration3 ,,niegawa1 ,,on ,,! ,,nakas5do new p94 ,at ,%imo-no-suwa1 ab\t ?ree miles on1 ! ,ko%u-kaido1 along :i* ,i _h be5 travell+ f ,k(u1 jo9s ! ,nakas5do1 ! c5tral m\nta9 road1 "o ( ! ma9 r\tes betwe5 ,kyoto & ,tky4 ,a new road has be5 made mo/ ( ! way1 admirably eng9e]$1 ) g5tle gradi5ts1 b s badly execut$ t x _h already fall5 to pieces 9 "s places1 & x 0 cov]$ ) loose road-metal :i* made j9riki%a travell+ v labori\s4 ,my m5 usually pref]r$ ! old /eep road1 :i* cuts (f corn]s1 & is solid ?\gh v r\gh1 & aft] a c\ple ( days ,i s5t back all ! j9riki%as except ! "o :i* c>ri$ my baggage1 f9d+ my own legs ! be/ means ( conveyance4 ,f ! ,%iojiri ,pass ,i look$ back ov] ,suwa1 saw ,fuji ?r\gh ! blue haze ( a lovely autumn morn+1 a long way (f1 b /ill t[]+ above all ! o!r hills1 & !n dropp$ d[n into a new set ( m\nta9s1 riv]s1 & valleys4 ,! sc5]y ( ! ,nakas5do gets m & m picturesque1 until x rea*es a climax 9 ! valley ( ! ,kisogawa1 on :i* ,i fir/ look$ f ! summit ( ! ,torii ,pass1 f\r ?\s& & odd feet above ! sea4 ,ea* village on ! road _h its own peculi>ities ( co/ume1 ar*itecture1 & manufacture--*eap lacqu]-w>e1 combs1 pickles1 & s on1 & ( all ^! ,matsuba b\ght a /ock1 = x is ! habit ( e ,japanese on 8 travels to take back ) him 8meibutsu10 ! *>act]i/ic productions ( ! places he has visit$1 z pres5ts = ^? he has left at home4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,little ,,%9to ,,%r9e1 ,,ne> ,,! ,,nakas5do ,!re are _m celebrat$ m\nta9s 9 ?is di/rict1 ea* ) its own special god & %r9es1 & ,i con/antly met b&s ( pilgrims dress$ 9 :ite1 ) long /aves & big hats1 or saw boat-loads ( !m go+ d[n ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,boat-,,m5d] ,,by ,,! ,,t5ryugawa ! ,kisogawa 9 ! few places :]e x is navigable4 ,aft] "s days ( glori\s wea!r1 ) a sun :i* turn$ ! w+s ( ! myriad dragon-flies hov]+ ov] ! riv]s to spots ( light1 & made all clo?+ seem sup]flu\s1 ,i 0 sudd5ly arre/$ by a viol5t /orm at a little village call$ ,suw>a4 ,a numb] ( pilgrims _h be5 driv5 to %elt] 9 ! same tea-h\se2 !y sp5t ! day 9 *ant+ pray]s1 r++ a little bell1 & tapp+ blocks ( wood toge!r to m>k ! "t2 & !y began x aga9 at ?ree o'clock ! next morn+1 be=e />t+ on _! trudge4 ,! motive ( ^! pilgrimages is n 9 ! lea/ p5it5tial4 ,c]ta9 h>d%ips h to be endur$ by e travell] 9 m\nta9 regions1 b ! ,japanese are good walk]s & accu/om$ to simple liv+1 & 9 _! composition !y h a l>ge /ock ( intellig5t curiosity :i* makes !m enjoy all t is new & beautiful 9 ! c\ntry ?r\gh :i* !y pass4 ,! hi/ory & lit]ature ( _! fa!rl& =m a l>ge "p ( _! education1 & almo/ e rem>kable spot has "s leg5d>y or poetical association ap>t f its natural beauty2 _! religion tea*es !m1 too1 t n only temples & %r9es are sacr$1 b t e poetic ?\ght or h]oic de$1 e gr& tree or rock or lovely l&scape1 has 9 x some?+ ( ! div9e4 ,on ! banks ( ! ,kisogawa1 n f> f ,suw>a1 !re is a l>ge flat rock1 :i* is call$ ,nezame-no-toko1 ! ,b$ ( ,awak5+1 = "h ,ura%ima ! fi%]-boy1 a sort ( ,japanese ,rip ,van ,w9kle1 is suppos$ by "s to h return$ to real life aft] 8 long trance4 ,! usual v]sion ( ! /ory is ?is3 ,ura%ima liv$ ) 8 p>5ts at ,yura1 by ! sea ( ,japan1 help+ !m 9 _! fi%+2 b "o day 8 boat did n return1 & he 0 giv5 up = dead4 ,he _h met ! ,sea-god's daught]1 :o _h tak5 him away to live ) h] & love h] 9 an ev]gre5 l&4 ,:at seem$ to him l a few weeks pass$ by 9 happ9ess1 b at la/ he said1 8,my p>5ts w be sorr[+ = me2 ,i mu/ g back & com=t !m10 & he prevail$ on 8 pr9cess to sp>e him = a :ile4 ,%e gave him a casket1 say+ t z long z he kept x clos$ %e w\ld always be ) him1 b if he op5$ x1 %e & ! ev]gre5 l& w\ld be lo/ to him =ev]4 ,he _h really be5 away = c5turies1 8 home _h disappe>$1 & ev]y?+ 9 ,yura 0 *ang$4 ,9 despair he op5$ ! =bidd5 box1 a fa9t blue mi/ float$ out f x across ! sea1 he turn$ f a h&some y\? to an old decrepit man1 & 9 a few m9utes lay dead ^u ! %ore1 = 9 t box 8 pr9cess _h enclos$ all ! h\rs ( _! happy life4 ,no portion ( ! ,nakas5do is f9] ?an t ne> ,midono2 ! valley n>r[s & ! road 9 _m places ov]hangs ! ru%+ ,kisogawa1 ! vegetation is luxuriant1 walnuts1 oaks1 *e/nuts1 & maples %ade ! road1 & great groves ( bamboo wave _! plumes 9 e little breeze :i* comes d[n f ! m\nta9s ?r\gh ! rav9es 9 :i* !y gr[4 ,by ! riv]-side ,i notic$ _m f9e-leav$ plants2 "s old g>d5 fri5ds1 & o!rs new to me2 yell[ wagtails flutt]$ jauntily f rock to rock1 & l9es ( swall[s on ! telegraph wires %[$ t autumn 0 at h&4 ,i turn$ (f f ! ,nakas5do at ,ha%iba1 :]e x beg9s to asc5d ! ,magome ,pass1 & took a little cross-c\ntry track1 turn+ ea/w>d aga9 up ! valley ( ! ,hirosegawa1 :i*1 aft] two days' walk+1 br\ght me to ,iida & ! banks ( ! ,t5ryugawa4 ,?is road 0 n m5tion$ 9 my guide-book1 b ,nakajima ,sanju1 ! j9riki%a man :o _h accompani$ me all ! way f ,kami-no-suwa1 ma9ta9$ t x 0 practicable1 & t he c\ld take my baggage ?r\gh 9 8 kuruma4 ,he did ,illu/ration3 ,,banana-,,trees ,,at ,,atami x1 too1 b ,i occasionally _h to hire two extra m5 to help him1 & 9 "s places !y & ,matsuba _h to c>ry kuruma1 baggage & all4 ,!re 0 "o long climb ?r\gh a d5se wood :i* p>ticul>ly impress$ me2 ,i walk$ s f> ahead ( !m t ,i c\ld only j he> ! cont9ual cry1 8,yo-%a6 ,yo-%a60 ) :i* ! m5 enc\rag$ ea* o!r2 ! masses ( foliage above me1 ! %rubs & f]ns bel[ !m1 enclos$ me 9 a gre5 maze2 f "u ! ar*$ roots ( a colossal cryptom]ia a cle> little spr+ gu%$ out2 occasionally a rauc\s-voic$ jay flew across ! pa?1 or ,i _h to /op & exam9e ! huge toads1 sev5 or eight in*es long & almo/ z broad1 t sprawl$ ab\t on ! road-side4 ,:5 my m5 ov]took me at a tea-h\se "s miles f>!r on1 "o ( !m 0 c>ry+ a brace ( ^! toads sk9n$4 ,!y look$ z big z ! 8p\let0 ( a *eap re/aurant1 & he told me t !y 7 v good = weakly *ildr54 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,f]ry ,,at ,,tokimata ,at ,tokimata ,i engag$ a boat ) five m5 to take me d[n ! rapids z f> z ! ,tokaido2 ! riv] 0 runn+ high1 & !y w\ld n d x = less ?an tw5ty-f\r y5--a good price = a j\rney ( only t5 or twelve h\rs2 b :5 y rememb] t x takes !m t5 days or a =tnight to haul ! boat back1 x does n seem excessive4 ,don ,p$ro's rem>k1 8,:at ne$ ! bridge mu* wid] ?an ! flood80 does n apply to mo/ ( ! ,japanese riv]s2 usually !y are j a trickle ( wat] among a wide b$ ( pebbles1 :i* is fill$ aft] heavy ra9s ) a rag+ torr5t1 b ,lake ,suwa s]ves z a res]voir = ! ,t5ryugawa1 & x always has en\gh wat] to be navigable4 ,! boats us$ on x are ab\t ?irty feet long1 flat-bottom$ & flat-sid$1 ) a squ>e /]n & a high1 po9t$ b[2 !y are v loosely built & flexible1 & ! bottom bo>ds are s ?9 t !y wabble l a %eet ( pap] :5 pass+ ov] r\gh wat] or %all[s4 ,a heavy foot w\ld break ?r\gh !m1 & x is necess>y to tread only on ! bamboos :i* are laid l5g?wise1 re/+ on ! cross-ribs4 ,illu/ration3 ,,on ,,! ,,t5ryugawa ,my baggage 0 pil$ 9 ! middle ( ! boat1 & a seat arrang$ on x = ,matsuba & myself2 "o man took ! long /]n o> :ile ! o!r f\r work$ 9 ! b[s1 & )9 a few m9utes ( ! />t we 7 plung+ d[n betwe5 high cliffs1 *>g+ at rocks :i* we only avoid$ by a few in*es1 swirl+ r\nd 9 eddies at ! foot ( "o rapid :ile ! m5 got brea? = ! next1 & until we /opp$ = our mid-day meal at ! little ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,village ,,/reet1 ,,atami--,,vries ,,isl& ,,9 ,,! ,,di/ance village ( ,nakabe !re 0 no "t to sket*1 or ?9k1 or d any?+ b enjoy ! wild1 excit+ race4 ,! riv] twi/s1 betwe5 high m\nta9s1 d[n a gorge ) su* %>p curves t x is (t5 impossible to see any exit1 & our boat w\ld ru% d[n1 head+ /raight = a cliff aga9/ :i* ! wat] da%$ furi\sly2 :ile "o man 9 ! b[s :ack$ ! side ) 8 paddle = luck1 & !n /ood ready ) a pole1 ! o!r ?ree pull$ l mad1 & j :5 ,i ?\ght 8we mu/ come to grief ?is "t10 %e w\ld sudd5ly turn & swi% r\nd ! corn] into smoo!r wat]4 ,! rapids cont9u$ to be amus+1 ?\gh ! fun 0 n q s fa/ & furi\s1 all ! way to ,kajima1 :]e ! m\nta9s end & a broad pla9 beg9s2 bel[ "h ! riv] /ill ran swiftly1 b smoo?ly1 divid$ into sev]al *annels by long gravel banks1 on :i* gray will[s & bamboos grew1 & snipe & h]ons congregat$4 ,we met /r+s ( boats be+ labori\sly t[$ along3 ! w9d g5]ally bl[s up /ream1 & !y are ,illu/ration3 ,,on ,,! ,,t5ryugawa1 ,,ne> ,,kajima able on ^! l[] rea*es to help !mselves by hoi/+ a sail1 b ,i %all nev] und]/& h[ !y get _! boats back ?r\gh ^? upp] rapids4 ,x 0 gett+ d>k :5 we pass$ ?r\gh ! ru9s ( ! old ,tokaido bridge1 b 9 ! dusk ,i c\ld di/+ui% a r[ ( famili> ,noah's-ark-l =ms2 !y 7 curr5t-mills moor$ 9 ! riv]2 & !n ,i knew :at my day _h lack$--! companion%ip ( ! man ) :om ,i _h pass$ s _m hundr$s ( !m on ! ,danube4 ,!re 0 no?+ on ! ,danube q s sport+ z ^! rapids1 b ,i ?9k x w\ld be possible to get ?r\gh !m 9 a deck$ canoe1 su* z ^? we us$ on t riv]4 ,! pace is trem5d\s2 we did ! n9ety miles f ,tokimata to ,naka-no-ma*i 9 t5 h\rs ( actual travell+1 ?\gh ! latt] portion ( ! j\rney 0 on comp>atively sluggi% wat]4 ,ab\t a mon? aft] ?is ,i /opp$ at ,%izuoka1 a l>ge t[n on ! ,tokaido1 :]e ,ieyasu1 greate/ ( ! ,%oguns1 sp5t ! end ( 8 life 9 le>n$ leisure1 & :]e ,keiki1 ! la/ ( 8 successors1 depos$ 9 #ahfh1 :5 ! ,mikado came to 8 own aga91 /ill lives quietly z a private g5tleman4 ,h[ mu* m dignifi$ & reasonable is 8 ,ori5tal acceptance ( ! accompli%$ fact ?an ! re/less s*em+ ( "s ,we/]n pret5d]s1 :o are unable to see t _! ance/ors1 :e!r k+s or emp]ors1 ow$ _! p[] to national feel+1 & p]si/ 9 a futile /ruggle aga9/ ! inevitable6 ,! ,japanese ob$i5ce to law & au?ority1 :i* mu/1 h[ev] indirectly1 be an expression ( ! w ( ! p1 0 nev] bett] %[n ?an 9 ! promptness ) :i* ! sword-be>+ ,samurai ceas$ to c>ry _! weapons4 ,! ,samurai's blade _h be5 = c5turies 8 mo/ sacr$ possession1 a halo ( poetry surr\nd$ x1 & ! "r to we> x 9 public di/+ui%$ him f ! common h]d2 & yet :5 ! imp]ial edict 0 issu$ 9 #ahgf he laid x aside )\t a ,illu/ration3 ,,autumn-,,grass 7,,suzuki7 murmur1 & ! curio-%ops 7 soon full ( swords1 :i* a mon? be=e _! own]s w\ld soon] h di$ ?an lose4 ,x 0 no d\bt v inconv5i5t to walk ab\t always ) two swords /uck 9 y\r obi1 & p]haps he felt l ! curate 9 ! 8,bab ,ballads10 :o 0 =c$ by 8 mild rival to curl 8 hair & smoke-- 8,i long h wi%$ = "s ,excuse = ?is revulsion2 ,n[ t excuse has come1 ,i d x on compulsion20 b rec5t ev5ts %[ t ?\gh 8 ord9>y life has become peaceful & bloodless1 !re has be5 no fall+ (f 9 ! pluck ( a ,japanese soldi]4 ,ieyasu 0 fir/ buri$ at ,kuno-zan1 :i* ,i rea*$ aft] ab\t an h\r's ride by j9riki%a f ,%izuoka4 ,! fir/ "p ( ! way 0 ov] a rice-cov]$ pla91 f :i* gay-color$ hills1 /rip$ ) :ite buck:eat1 d>k gre5 tea1 & pale gre5 daikon1 gradually rose1 n>r[+ d[n t[>ds ! sea1 & f9ally leav+ only a /rip ( s&y soil1 mo/ly plant$ ) sug>-cane1 betwe5 ! /eep cliffs & ! %ore4 ,! little villages 7 odor\s ) dry+ fi%1 slices ( bonito hang+ 9 fe/oons 9 front ( e cottage1 & ! %ore 0 dott$ ) evaporat+-tubs = gett+ salt4 ,! mortu>y temples1 :i* s]v$ z a model = ^? aft]w>ds built at ,nikko1 /& on ! top ( ! cliff1 & are rea*$ by a zigzag flight ( /eps cut out ( ! rock2 !y are n s elaborate z ! ,nikko temples or ! ,%iba %r9es1 b h a sev]] beauty ( _! own1 :i* nature has help$ by decorat+ e /one & tree-trunk ) silv]y gray li*51 lovely 9 color aga9/ ! backgr\nd ( r$-lacqu]$ build+s4 ,! int]ior ( ! oratory1 :i*1 ) its surr\nd+ f5ce1 has a ro( ( bronze1 is mo/ly black & gold1 & !re ! v affable prie/s :o _h %[n me r\nd held a little s]vice 9 honor ( ,ieyasu1 pres5t+ me aft]w>ds ) ! sweet w9e & cakes :i* _h be5 us$ z (f]+s4 ,x is commonly said t ! body ( ! great ,%ogun /ill lies "u ! simple /one monum5t beh9d ! oratory1 & t only a few hairs 7 remov$ & buri$ at ,nikko2 c]ta9ly ?is is ! m impressive spot = a w>rior's grave1 ) ! wild hills beh9d1 & ! sea & coa/ spread out = miles bel[ ! t[]+ cliff4 ,! road on to ,okitsu1 :]e ,i _h to rejo9 ! railway1 l$ me inl& pa/ ,ryugeji1 a temple :]e !re are ! f9e/ specim5s ( ! screw-palm 7,cycas revoluta7 to be se5 9 ,japan1 & !n to ! sea aga9 at ,%imizu1 a nice little port1 j opposite ! s&y fir-clad spit ( l& call$ ,mio-no-matsub>a1 enclos+ a small] bay 9 ! great curve ( ,suruga1 :i* (t5 appe>s 9 ,japanese pictures4 ,?is is ! sc5e ( a leg5d :i* has be5 dramatiz$1 if y c call !m dramas1 = "o ( ! classical ,no dances4 ,x tells h[ a fi%]man wat*+ 8 nets saw a fairy alight on ! s& & lay aside h] robe ( fea!rs2 h[ he manag$ to /eal ! robe s t %e c\ld n fly away aga91 & only re/or$ x to h] :5 %e cons5t$ to dance = him "u ! p9e-trees "o ( ! dances :i* are nev] se5 by mortal eyes4 ,ne> ! tea-h\se 9 ,%imizu :]e ,i /opp$ to refre% !re 0 a temple d$icat$ to ,in>i1 ! ,%9to goddess ( ! rice-fields1 ^: %r9es are gu>d$ by foxes2 ! approa* to x 0 "u ?ree av5ues ( small r$ wood5 torii plac$ closely toge!r1 app>5tly votive (f]+s1 = "s ( !m 7 old & decay$ & o!rs q bright & new4 ,at ,numadzu1 f>!r to ! ea/ on ! ,tokaido1 b /ill on ! %ore ( ,suruga ,bay1 ,i aga9 left ! tra9 & ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,ru/ic ,,bridge ,,at ,,doga%ima1 ,,ne> ,,miya-,,no-,,%ita foll[$ ! c\rse ( ! old road1 f :i* ! railway "h div]ges1 z f> z ,mi%ima1 & !n1 aft] cross+ ! ridge ( m\nta9 :i* =ms ! backbone ( ! ,idzu ,p59sula1 desc5d$ to ,atami on ! we/]n coa/ ( ,odaw>a ,bay1 a favorite wat]+-place dur+ ! w9t] mon?s4 ,! orange & banana trees te/ify to ! mildness ( its climate1 & p]haps ! geys]1 :i* e f\r? h\r squirts out mud & boil+ wat] by ! village /reet1 helps to keep up ! temp]ature4 ,vries ,isl&1 ) its et]nally smoke-capp$ volcano1 lies on ! horizon away across ! sea1 & ! natives believe t !re is a connection betwe5 ! two1 = :5ev] ,vries is p>ticul>ly active ! geys] dis*>ges m viol5tly4 ,illu/ration3 ,,av5ues ,,( ,,torii ,,9 ,,front ,,( ,,an ,,in>i ,,temple1 ,,ne> ,,%imizu ,on ! #c;d ( ,novemb] ,i />t$ ) a fri5d f ,yokohama to walk ov] ! ,t5 ,prov9ce ,pass 7,jikkoku-toge7 to ,hakone & ,miya-no-%ita4 ,x 0 ! ,emp]or's bir?day1 & all ,atami 0 gay ) flags2 ! national ensign ) a r$ ball on a :ite gr\nd flutt]$ ev]y:]e4 ,we m\nt$ ! /eep /reet1 & look$ back at ! village ro(s & ! deep blue wat] ( ,odaw>a ,bay1 & !n turn$ into ! woods ( old camphor-trees surr\nd+ ! temple ,ki-no-miya4 ,"s ( ! camphors are enorm\s1 & ! l>ge/ ( !m are encircl$ ) ropes ( twi/$ /raw & bun*es ( gohei1 :i* %[ t !y are sacr$ objects4 ,beyond ! temple ! pa? asc5ds1 fir/ ?r\gh rice-fields & !n up r\gh grassy hills1 until x rea*es ! long plateau ( turf :]e ! ,t5 ,prov9ce /one /&s4 ,?\gh s late 9 ! ye>1 !re 7 /ill pl5ty ( fl[]s4 ,d[n ne> ,atami long sprays ( hototogisu 7,tricyrtis71 ) spotty purple fl[]s1 hung out f ! s&y banks1 & by our pa? ,i saw ,mi*aelmas daisies1 gold5-rod1 d>k-blue monk's-hood1 sky-blue g5tians1 mag5ta-fl[]$ g>lic1 ?i/les ( v>i\s colors1 wild *rysan!mums1 p9k or :ite ) a gold c5tre1 & ! beautiful :ite />s ( ! grass ( ,p>nassus4 ,! sun 0 q hot1 & we pull$ out "s provisions & sat d[n on ! grass ne> ! /one to enjoy !m & ! m>vell\s view4 ,to ! nor? ! sn[y cone ( ,fuji rose high aga9/ ! blue sky2 betwe5 u & x ! long cre/ ( d[n-l& 0 mo/ly cov]$ ) suzuki 7,eulalia japonica71 a lovely grass ) tall plumes ( se$ :i* %9e l silv] gossam]1 & ! ranges ( l[] m\nta9s 7 brilliant ) ! autumnal colors ( maples & o!r trees2 bel[ u on ! ea/ lay ! little p59sula ( ,manazura1 jutt+ out into ,sagami ,bay1 ) a curve ( rice-fields on ea* side ( ! n>r[ neck :i* connects x ) ! ma9l&1 & beyond x ! long /raight l9e ( ! ,pacific 0 brok5 only by ,vries ,isl& & its cl\d ( smoke2 a succession ( hilly promontories & little bays /ret*$ all d[n ! coa/ ( ,idzu to ! s\?w>d1 & return$ nor?w>d aga9 up ! o!r side ( ! p59sula1 pa/ ,joyama1 ) a lake-l inlet ( sea1 to ,numadzu1 :]e ! great sweep ( ,suruga ,bay began1 bord]$ ) s&s & sunny rice-fields1 & end$ only at ,kuno-zan1 f> to ! we/w>d4 ,our pa? w5t on along ! d[ns1 ,illu/ration3 ,,jiz ,,sama1 ,,ne> ,,hakone ?r\gh suzuki1 dw>f bamboo1 & little /unt$ woods1 until a deep desc5t l$ u d[n to ! ,hakone ,lake1 d>k blue & sombre among its encircl+ hills2 x !n m\nt$ once m = a %ort di/ance1 pass$ ! hot spr+s ( ,a%i-no-yu1 & f9ally1 :ile ! grassy hills /ill gl[$ 9 ! light ( ! sett+ sun1 br\ght u d[n to ! ,fujiya at ,miya-no-%ita1 :]e a delici\s natural w>m ba? & a good d9n] made a fitt+ t]m9ation to a glori\s day4 ,at ! bottom ( a rav9e almo/ p]p5dicul>ly bel[ ,miya-no-%ita lies ! little village ( ,doga%ima1 ) a turbul5t m\nta9 /ream & a v %aky bamboo bridge4 ,! pa? & /eps lead+ d[n to x are kept cont9ually gre5 by ! ov]fl[ f ! w>m spr+s1 & :5 ,i 0 !re !y sw>m$ ) l&-crabs1 que] little bea/s ) bodies ( d>k gre51 blue1 br[n1 or r$1 & a pair ( light-color$ claws1 :i* !y held up 9 a ?reat5+ attitude :5 ,i attempt$ to cat* !m4 ,z !y he>d me approa* !y scurri$ (f t[>ds _! holes1 b !y 7 s clumsy & s num]\s t ,i c\ld h>dly help /epp+ on !m4 ,"o ( ! common objects by ,japanese road-sides is ! figure ( ,jiz1 a ,buddhi/ sa9t :o is ! help] ( all :o are 9 tr\ble1 & especially ! patron ( travell]s & *ildr54 ,ne> ! pa? betwe5 ,hakone & ,a%i-no-yu we pass$ a colossal pres5tm5t ( him1 c>v$ 9 bold relief out ( a mass ( &esite rock1 a v /rik+ "w ( "s anci5t sculptor4 ,x is said to h be5 done 9 a s+le night by t m>vell\sly active sa9t ,kobo ,dai%i1 :o1 accord+ to popul> tradition1 climb$ all ! m\nta9s 9 ,japan1 & f\nd "t1 :5 he 0 n prea*+ & conf\nd+ sceptics1 to p]=m wond]s 9 sculpture1 pa9t+1 & calligraphy4 ,jiz1 9 ! rudely c>v$ /atuettes by ! way-sides1 is a b5evol5t-look+ prie/1 hold+ a travell]'s /aff 9 8 "r h& & a globe 9 8 left4 ,he /&s on a lotus fl[]1 & ar\nd 8 feet are pil$ _m pebbles1 plac$ !re by wayf>]s4 ,! reason = ! cu/om is ?is3 ,on ! banks ( ! ,s-dzu-kawa1 ! riv] ( ! l[] _w1 !re lives a hag :o cat*es little *ildr5 z !y attempt to cross1 /eals _! clo!s1 & makes !m toil ) h] at h] endless task ( pil+ ! /ones on its %ores4 ,jiz helps ^! *ildr51 & e pebble :i* is laid at 8 feet light5s ! labor ( "s little "o bel[4 ,i nev] pass$ )\t add+ my contribution1 & if ,i _c attribute my safety dur+ my w&]+s to 8 k9dly aid1 at lea/ ,i am indebt$ to him = _m a pleasant ?\ght1 & = ! memory ( _m a lovely l&scape or fl[] se5 by 8 side4 ,illu/ration ,,autumn ,,9 ,,japan ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,autumn ,,lily ,,autumn ,,9 ,,japan ,f ! spr+-"t1 :5 ,i rea*$ ,japan 9 ! ra9 & began to grumble at ! wea!r1 & all ?r\gh ! damp & ! d[np\r ( ! summ] mon?s1 ,i _h be5 consol$ by ! promises ( my fri5ds4 ,!y assur$ me t :5 ! autumn came ,i %\ld h week aft] week ( glori\s sun%9e1 a cle> fre% air1 & probably n a wet day betwe5 ,mi*aelmas & ,*ri/mas4 ,ei!r ! season 0 an exceptional "o1 or else ?is is a *]i%$ my?2 !re c]ta9ly 7 m f9e days 9 ,octob] & ,novemb]1 b n a week pass$ )\t "o or two days :5 "w out-(-doors 0 impossible4 ,!y talk$1 too1 ( ! glory ( ! maples1 ( hill-sides & rocky rav9es clo!d ) sc>let & crimson1 & _! en?usiasm 9 ?is matt] 0 amply ,illu/ration3 ,,fields ,,ne> ,,hamamatsu ju/ifi$1 b no "o _h told me ( ! beauty ( ! lilies ( ! field1 :i* decorate s _m ( ! banks betwe5 ! rice pat*es ) _! tassels ( gl[+ sc>let4 ,i saw !m fir/ ne> ,hamamatsu1 a pleasant t[n on ! ,tokaido1 :i* ,i rea*$ on ! #af? ( ,septemb]1 aft] a little t\r 9 ! int]ior2 _! brilliant color at once attract$ me1 & ,i ha/5$ to make draw+s ( !m1 = my passport _h almo/ expir$1 & ,i fe>$ t ,i might n f9d !m else:]e4 ,!re 0 no ne$ to be 9 su* a hurry1 = !y seem to gr[ abundantly :]ev] !y get a *ance4 ,hamamatsu 0 q unlike any o!r ,japanese t[n ,i _h se52 ! h\ses _h a project+ upp] /ory & broad ov]hang+ ro(s1 & ! pr9cipal trade seem$ to be 9 toys4 ,!re 7 %ops full ( drums & kites1 & dolls ) all _! belong+s1 & ! ?\s& & "o ?+s :i* ! ,japanese delight 9 giv+ to _! belov$ *ildr54 ,z ,i pass$ a little g>d5 ,i saw :at look$ l a fe>ful atrocity--doz5s ( babies' heads1 pale & gray z if 9 dea?1 cut (f at ! neck & impal$ on %ort ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,edge ,,( ,,! ,,tokaido1 ,,ne> ,,hamamatsu /akes1 /ood ab\t ! gr\nd2 b on com+ ne>] ! my/]y 0 expla9$3 !y 7 life-siz$ dolls' heads ( papi]-ma*1 put out to dry 9 ! sun be=e receiv+ _! f9al coat ( pa9t4 ,! neighbor+ villages 7 peculi>2 e cottage 0 protect$ f ! w9ds by a high h$ge ( clipp$ yew1 & ! /reet seem$ to pass betwe5 two gre5 walls1 ov] :i* ! heavily ?at*$ ro(s j peep$4 ,! op5+s gave a glimpse ( c\rt-y>ds & cottage fronts :]e wom5 & m5 7 h>d at "w1 ?re%+ _! beans ( _m colors & spread+ !m on mats to dry1 weav+ blue cotton clo?s1 or w9d+ (f ! ske9s ( %9+ yell[ silk4 ,! typhoon a =tnight e>li] _h /rewn ! ,tokaido ) p9e-trees2 a passage wide en\gh = a j9riki%a to pass _h be5 sawn ?r\gh "s ( ! great pro/rate trunks1 & o!rs 7 /ill support$ by _! mangl$ limbs1 s t we c\ld squeeze "u !m4 ,!y sadly imp$$ ! "w ( a company ( :ite-clad eng9e]s1 :o1 ) all ! late/ milit>y contrivances1 7 lay+ a field-telegraph along ! road4 ,:at a contra/ 7 ^! sons ( *ange to ! fi%]m5 return+ f _! morn+'s "w ) heavy loads ( bonito1 & to ! peasants ) _! simple & primitive implem5ts1 all work+ & liv+ z !y h done = c5turies pa/6 ,politics & *anges ( gov]nm5t matt] v little to !m2 ! rice crop & ! take ( fi% are affairs ( mu* m importance2 !y are ! real life ( a c\ntry1 pres]v+ its habits1 co/umes1 & traditions1 & /av+ (f = a "t ! influ5ces ( railroads & /eam%ips1 :i* ?reat5 to r$uce man's condition ?r\gh\t ! _w to "o dull level ( uni=mity4 ,=tunately !y =m a solid majority 9 e l&1 a mass n easily mov$1 & ev5 9 progressive ,japan x w be a long "t be=e ill-cut tr\s]s & /eam-pl\ghs replace ! kimono & ! spade4 ,! ,tokaido ,railway takes y 9 twelve h\rs f ,hamamatsu to ,kbe1 & :ile wait+ till a new passport came f ,tky ,i _h "t to see a little m ( ! beautiful c\ntry ar\nd t hospitable port4 ,! %ores ne> ,suma & ,maiko1 a little to ! we/w>d1 are picturesque1 & close by is ! ,/rait ( ,aka%i1 ?r\gh :i* a con/ant /ream ( traffic passes1 %ips ( all k9ds & sizes1 f ! little fi%+-boats t[$ f ! bea*1 to ! big /eam]s f ,europe & ,am]ica4 ,! isl& ( ,awaji lies across ! entrance to ! ,inl& ,sea1 leav+ a n>r[ passage at ea* end2 b ! tide ru%es s viol5tly ?r\gh ! ,n>uta ,*annel to ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,isl& ,,( ,,awaji1 ,,f ,,maiko ! s\?1 betwe5 ,awaji & ,%ikoku1 t x is (t5 unnavigable1 & mo/ ( ! %ipp+ comes ?is way4 ,!re are ! rema9s ( a ,daimio's ca/le at ,aka%i2 ! ma9 build+ is gone1 & ! plateau on :i* x /ood is n[ a g>d5 ) tea-boo?s1 b ! f\ndation walls1 ! corn] turrets1 & ! moat %[ :at an important /ronghold x mu/ h be52 & ! view f x1 d[n ! ,inl& ,sea to ! we/1 ov] to ! ,%ikoku ,m\nta9s on ! s\?1 & ea/w>d to ,osaka ,bay & ! hills ( ,yamato1 is ext5sive & v f9e 9 its outl9es4 ,at ,maiko ,illu/ration3 ,,on ,,! ,,%ore ,,ne> ,,maiko1 ,,! ,,/rait ,,( ,,aka%i ,,to ,,! ,,"r !re is a grove ( curi\sly bl[n & twi/$ p9e-trees1 ) ! qua9t =ms :i* are lov$ by all arti/s1 especially by ! ,japanese2 & ne> ,suma1 :]ev] ! wiry grasses _h got a foo?old among ! s&1 ! %ore 0 gay ) sc>let lilies4 ,! botanic "n ( ?is fl[]1 :i* is really m l an am>yllis ?an a lily1 is ,n]9e japonica4 ,its ,japanese "n is n s easy to det]m9e1 = :]ev] ,i w5t x _h a diff]5t "o2 "s ( ^! names are %iwata-bana1 teku-s>i1 *iridji1 & u%9o-n9niku 7c[-g>lic71 b ,i ?9k ! commone/ is higambana 7equ9ox fl[]71 & ! be/1 = its op5+ m>ks ! *ange ( ! season1 ! beg9n+ ( ! end4 ,x is probably because ( ?is t1 beautiful z x appe>s to ,european eyes1 to ! ,japanese x is a fl[] ( ill om51 associat$ 9 _! m9ds ) dea? & decay1 & nev] us$ 9 art or 9 floral arrangem5ts4 ,! *ildr51 inde$1 ga!r great armfuls ( x2 b !y nev] take x inside _! homes2 ! great bun*es !y h collect$ are ei!r scatt]$ among ! family tomb/ones or left to )] on ! foot-pa?s4 ,!y seem to l pick+ x because its juicy /em snaps s easily1 & (t5 amuse !mselves z !y sit by ! road-side by break+ ! /alks half ?r\gh1 leav+ !m hang+ 9 regul> jo9ts1 mu* z our *ildr5 make d&elion or daisy *a9s4 ,ne> a little gravey>d set d[n among ! rice-fields ! fl[]s grew 9 great pr(usion1 mak+ a gorge\s spla% ( brilliant color z a =egr\nd to ! gray /ones1 ! yell[+ gra91 & ! pale blue di/ant hills4 ,! rice 0 rip5+ fa/1 & flocks ( ,illu/ration3 ,,lilies ,,by ,,! ,,%ore1 ,,suma rice-birds flew hurri$ly across z !y 7 *as$ f field to field by %\t+ boys4 ,i wi% ,i _h made a sket* ( a ,japanese sc>ecr[2 !re 7 pl5ty ( !m ab\t1 & ,i nev] saw "o )\t laugh+2 !y 7 full ( qua9t humor & inv5tion1 & ! little birds seem$ to enjoy !m z mu* z ,i did4 ,!y recall$ ! rem>k ( a /rang] 9 a fly-haunt$ p>lor 9 ,s\? ,c>ol9a1 :]e a small clock-"w w9dmill revolv$ 9 ! c5tre ( ! table4 ,i ask$ :e!r x drove ! flies away1 & ! own] repli$1 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,gravey>d ,,at ,,suma 8,at fir/ x sc>$ !m "s1 b n[ !y come 9 to ride r\nd on x40 ,! %ore 0 always full ( life & activity2 bronz$ fi%]m51 nak$ except = a n>r[ :ite lo9-clo?1 7 laun*+ _! boats or haul+ !m a%ore1 t[+ along ! bea*1 pull+ up nets1 or *ant+ z !y r[$ _! heavy craft1 /&+ up & pu%+ ! long b5t o>s ) a =w>d j]k1 9 ! same way t a gondoli] works4 ,! small] sail+-boats are all rigg$ ) ! simple oblong sail :i* is s (t5 %[n 9 ,japanese draw+s1 made ( n>r[ /rips ( cotton clo? loosely lac$ toge!r2 ! l>g] ones h a jib & a jig-sail z well4 ,illu/ration3 ,,hills ,,beh9d ,k,,be ,futa-tabi1 ,maya-san1 & ! o!r hills :i* rise beh9d ,kbe are z well wor? see+ z ! %ore1 full ( picturesque walks2 ! c\ntry at ! back ( !m1 commonly call$ 8,ad50 by ! =eign resid5ts1 on acc\nt ( its b>5ness1 is a curi\s wa/e ( dis9tegrat+ granite1 seam$ & furr[$ by ! heavy ra9s1 :]e only "s scrubby bu%es f9d a prec>i\s foo?old on ! %ift+ soil4 ,coolies f ! neighbor+ villages come & cut ^! = firewood1 & c>ry ! heavy fagots = miles to e>n a few halfp5ce4 ,9 ,arima1 "o ( ! hill villages1 !re are hot f]rug9\s spr+s :]e hundr$s ( p g to ba!2 b ! arrangem5ts are n s primitive z ^? ,i saw at ,yumoto2 ! ba?s & dress+-rooms are private en\gh = ! %y =eign]4 ,!re is s mu* iron 9 ! wat] t y come out ( x cov]$ ) a r$ deposit :i* takes "s days ( wa%+ to remove4 ,on ?is excursion1 z my boots 7 9 hospital1 ,i tri$ ,japanese foot-ge>--?ick cotton socks & /raw s&als2 !y 7 v light & com=table at fir/1 b aft] a "t ,i 0 consci\s ( e little pebble ,i trod on1 & ,i got back to ,kbe ) a good deal ( pa9 & _m bli/]s4 ,=eign]s :o h (t5 worn !m get h>d5$ betwe5 ! toes1 & _m good walk]s & m\nta9e]s use !m habitually2 heavy boots are an encumbrance :5 n on y\r feet1 & ?\gh ! /raw s&als are quickly worn out1 a few extra pairs are no s]i\s addition to y\r baggage4 ,on ! #f? ( ,octob] ,i _h f9i%$ my draw+s among ! p9es & ! s& hills1 & a new passport _h come1 :i* gave me p]mission to w&] = ?ree mon?s long] ?r\gh ! prov9ces ne> ! ,tokaido1 s ,i bid f>ewell to my good fri5ds & ! com=table club-h\se 9 ,kbe1 & ,matsuba once m left 8 wife & family to foll[ my =tunes4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,bamboo ,,y>d ,,at ,,maib>a ,our de/9ation 0 ,maib>a1 a little t[n on ,lake ,biwa1 n _m miles f ,hikone4 ,z ,i pass$ x by rail ,i _h notic$ t ! flood$ fields on ! m>g9 ( ! lake 7 cov]$ ) a blue-fl[]$ wat]-plant1 a good =egr\nd to ! blue wat] & ! di/ant m\nta9s1 & ,i hop$ = blue skies to complete ! picture1 b !y came only at r>e int]vals4 ,on a piece ( wa/e ,illu/ration3 ,,blue ,,wat]-,,we$ gr\nd ne> my tea-h\se a travell+ !atre _h be5 erect$1 a /ructure ( bamboo poles ) mats hung ov] !m1 :i* 0 n calculat$ to keep an audi5ce dry1 & n once dur+ my /ay 7 ! company able to give a p]=mance4 ,! manag] occupi$ ! room next m9e2 he 0 an excell5t p]=m] on ! samis51 & a pi\s man )al4 ,e morn+ f sev5 till half-pa/ he said 8 pray]s1 repeat+ 9 a monoton\s s+song voice a s5t5ce :i* s\nd$ to me l 8,ya ya yura no10 & tapp+ two blocks ( wood toge!r to keep "t4 ,he belong$ to ! ,%+on sect ( ,buddhi/s4 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,travell+ ,,!atre1 ,,maib>a ,! pray] =mula ( ! ,monto sect1 "o ( ! mo/ popul> & p[]ful1 own+ ! great ,hongwanji temples :i* are f\nd 9 all l>ge t[ns1 is1 8,namu ,amida ,butsu10 :ile ! foll[]s ( ,ni*ir51 z !y beat _! drums1 murmur con/antly1 8,namu myh r5ge ky40 ,we soon became good fri5ds1 ! manag] & ,i1 & he sp5t _m h\rs 9 my room dr9k+ tea1 look+ at my sket*es1 & 9 su* conv]sation z my rudim5t>y k ( ! language p]mitt$1 b un=tunately ,i nev] _h an opportunity ( see+ him act4 ,:5 ,i left he pres5t$ me ) a pr9t$ cotton t[el 9 an ornam5tal wrapp]1 & ,i gave him a p5ny black-lead p5cil1 & we p>t$ ) mutual expressions ( e/eem4 ,i _h o!r visitors too3 ! /ation-ma/] & ! *ief ( police want$ to see my pictures1 & ,takaki1 ,o ,%ige ,san1 & little ,kazu1 ) ! br[n velvet eyes1 came ov] f ,hikone to call on me1 & arrang$ to meet me at ! ,nagahama matsuri4 ,?is annual fe/ival takes place 9 ! middle ( ,octob]1 & seems to be a ga!r+-gr\nd = all ! c\ntry-side4 ,9 _m respects x 0 v l a c\ntry fair 9 ,engl&1 b ! ma9 ev5t on all ! ?ree days is ! p]ambulation ( l>ge triumphal c>s1 call$ yama1 on :i* companies ( *ildr5 give dramatic p]=mances4 ,i 0 =tunate 9 hav+ a brilliantly f9e day1 & z ,i b[l$ along ! five miles ( level road f ,maib>a 9 a kuruma ) two good runn]s1 ,i pass$ troops ( p 9 holiday attire1 old peasants1 gayly dress$ "y girls1 & w&]+ fri>s ) huge bamboo hats t look$ l bu%el baskets4 ,! t[n 0 gayly decorat$ ) flags & ) lant]ns be>+ ! device ( ! city1 & cr[ds 7 p\r+ into x by road & rail & boat2 = ,nagahama is a busy port at ! nor!rn end ( ,lake ,biwa1 & a regul> s]vice ( /eam]s runs betwe5 !re & ,otsu1 at ! s\!rn end4 ,?is mixture ( ?+s anci5t & mod]n 9 ,japan always seems amus+1 especially :51 z 9 ,nagahama1 !re is n mu* ( ! mod]n4 ,! r[-boats :i* came 9 ) _! loads ( pass5g]s 7 ( unv>ni%$ wood1 decorat$ ) black patt]ns on ! b[s1 &1 except ! police & ! railway (ficials1 ,i saw v few m5 9 ,european dress2 !re c]ta9ly 7 no wom5 9 any?+ b _! own becom+ co/ume1 & ,i 0 ! only =eign] 9 ! t[n4 ,my l&lord _h be5 ?\ghtful en\gh to engage a place = me 9 a tea-h\se opposite :i* ! yama /opp$ & gave a p]=mance3 all ! p>titions _h be5 remov$1 & ! floor1 divid$ into squ>es by l[ movable rail+s1 0 cov]$ ) family p>ties :o _h br\ght _! own cu%ions & provisions4 ,illu/ration3 ,,laun*+ ,a ,,boat ,my he>t 0 fill$ ) covet\sness z ,i saw ! f9e old lacqu] b5to boxes :i* !y produc$ aft] c>efully remov+ _m silk wrapp+s4 ,!re are twelve yama 9 ! t[n1 ea* own$ by a diff]5t guild or society1 ! memb]s ( :i* tea* ! *ildr5 _! p>ts1 provide dresses = _! play1 & accompany ! yama on ! fe/ival days4 ,! c>s are huge ?+s1 tall] ?an mo/ ( ! ,japanese h\ses1 & q fill up ! ,illu/ration3 ,,lake ,,biwa ,,) ,,flood$ ,,rice-,,fields1 ,,ne> ,,maib>a n>r[ /reets2 !y are built on solid wood5 :eels1 & are dragg$ ab\t by /r+s ( coolies1 ! "y m5 ( ! guild danc+ & %\t+ 9 front ( !m1 wav+ fans by day & lant]ns aft] d>k to direct ! coolies' movem5ts1 :ile ! old] memb]s foll[ 9 :ite-curta9$ c>ts4 ,! wood-"w ar\nd ! /age is lacqu]$1 gold & black & r$1 ) elaborate brass ornam5ts1 & ! pagoda-l ro( :i* cov]s x is ( burni%$ gold1 surm\nt$ ) a dragon or phnix or o!r my?ical animal4 ,! "p beh9d ! /age is enclos$ ) hang+s1 ,*9ese embroid]ies1 ,p]sian rugs1 or silk brocades1 & two ( !m _h f9e pieces ( ,flemi% tape/ry1 :i* mu/ h come ov] ) ! ,dut* c5turies ago2 ! buxom ladies & knights 9 armor look$ odd1 & yet pleasantly famili>1 & my he>t w5t out to ! expatriat$ /rang]s1 s lonely amid t ,ea/]n cr[d4 ,9 front ( ea* /age hung a bun* ( 8gohei10 ! twi/$ /rips ( :ite pap] :i* are ! univ]sal emblem ( ! ,%9to religion1 ! only simple ?+s among ! masses ( gorge\s color1 & !y seem$ to give ! key-note to ! :ole2 = ,%9to is1 above ev]y?+ else1 an ance/or-wor%ip1 a religi\s respect = ! c\ntry & = ! m5 ^: h]oic de$s /ill inspire its p1 & ! %ort dramas :i* ! *ildr5 act$ 7 all f\nd$ on old /ories--h[ ,yoritomo's son sacrific$ 8 life to save ! "y ,mikado1 & o!r well-kn[n motives f ,japanese hi/ory4 ,! boys 7 admirably tra9$ & beautifully dress$2 !y roll$ _! eyes & grimac$ 9 exactly ! same way z _! eld]s ( ! pr(ession1 & ! cr[d vigor\sly applaud$ _! facial contortions4 ,9 "o company !re 0 a little mite ( two ye>s old2 he _h n to speak at all1 only to cry out once or twice1 b he knew 8 "p z well z ! re/1 & always look$ up at 8 boy fa!r at ! "r mom5t4 ,dur+ ! aft]noon ,i walk$ r\nd ! t[n1 fir/ to ! ,buddhi/ temple1 ! great hall ( :i* 0 cr[d$ ) p sleep+1 eat+1 & pray+1 & !n up ! long av5ue lead+ to ! ,%9to temple ( ,ha*iman4 ,x 0 l9$ ) /alls & boo?s = refre%m5ts ( all k9ds1 ) conjur]s1 purse-trick m51 lucky :eels1 quack-m$ic9e v5dors1 & s on1 & ne> ! big granite torii & lant]ns 7 ! m>ket-g>d5]s ) dw>f p9es1 oranges lad5 ) fruit1 camellias1 & o!r trees4 ,"o _h no?+ b or*id-plants1 none ( !m1 un=tunately1 9 fl[]4 ,i jo9$ a l>ge circle ( spectators :o 7 wat*+ a scriev]1 :i* is1 ,i believe1 ! pr(essional "n = ! arti/s :o draw on ! flag-/ones2 ?is "o _h no pavem5t1 s he prep>$ an ev5 gr\nd by spr9kl+ "s light gray s& ov] ! du/y road2 8 colors 7 bags ( black1 :ite1 r$1 & blue s&2 f "o ( ^! he took a h&ful1 & drew 8 design by lett+ ! p[d] run f 8 clos$ fi/ 9 a l9e :i* v>i$ 9 ?ickness z he tight5$ or loos5$ 8 grasp4 ,he wrote or drew 9 ?is way ) wond]ful rapidity z he squatt$ on ! gr\nd1 & he talk$ all ! "t1 oblit]at+ ea* draw+ z soon z he _h f9i%$ x4 ,i wat*$ him draw a figure ( a girl1 & he began by putt+ d[n ! spots ( ! patt]n on h] kimono ) blue1 !n add$ ! %ad[ l9es ( ! dress1 reliev$ x "h & !re ) :ite1 sket*$ ! face & h&s 9 r$1 & f9ally add$ a bold outl9e 9 black1 :i* complet$ ! picture1 ?us work+ 9 t rev]se way to our natural in/9cts :i* y s (t5 notice 9 ?is l& ( ,topsy-turvydom4 ,z ev5+ approa*$1 all ! yama began to collect 9 ! squ>e 9 front ( ano!r ,%9to temple1 :]e ! great ,ha*iman c> ) colossal swords1 & ! ,miko%i1 a %r9e c>ri$ ab\t on m5's %\ld]s1 7 already plac$4 ,9 ! riv] on "o side ( ?is squ>e _m boats 7 moor$1 spread ) ru% mats & ) ! r$ blankets :i* h become s common 9 ,japan1 & 9 !m p 7 picknick+2 ov] ! bridge :i* cross$ x ! unwieldy /ructures 7 dragg$ f ! t[n by %\t+ cr[ds2 ea* 9 turn gave a f9al p]=mance 9 front ( ! temple1 & 0 !n drawn aside to make room = ! next4 ,?is began at half-pa/ five1 & x 0 elev5 o'clock be=e ! la/ ( ,illu/ration3 ,,"o ,,( ,,! 8,,yama0 ,,at ,,! ,,nagahama ,,matsuri ,f a pr9t$ programme sold on ! /reet !m _h be5 rang$ ) ! o!rs to ! "r ( ! temple /eps4 ,z night came on !y 7 cov]$ ) big lant]ns1 ! /ages 7 light$ by lamps 9 glass %ades1 & att5dants ) c&les on long /icks illum9at$ ! face ( ea* little actor :ile he 0 speak+4 ,:5 ! six gorge\s yama ) _! att5dants & gayly dress$ p]=m]s 7 all drawn up 9 l9e aga9/ ,illu/ration3 ,,"s ,,hats ,,at ,,! ,,nagahama ,,matsuri a backgr\nd ( solemn cryptom]ias1 ) an excit$ cr[d danc+ & wav+ lant]ns 9 front ( !m1 ! spectacle 0 m beautiful ?an any words ( m9e c sugge/4 ,9 spite ( ! excitem5t1 ,i saw only "o qu>rel2 a "y man1 9 ord] to get ne>] to ! /age1 _h pu%$ pa/ a big coolie1 :o _h evid5tly tak5 z mu* sak z he c\ld c>ry1 & = a few seconds ,i ?\ght !re w\ld be a fight2 b a by/&] po9t$ out to ! indignant man t ! y\? _h to get ne>] because he 0 %ort-sight$ & wore spectacles1 & peace 0 at once re/or$4 ,on ! way back to our tea-h\se1 :]e my fri5ds f ,t5n5ji _h d9$ ) me1 we pass$ a /reet full ( /alls1 ) pipes & p\*es1 *eap jewelry1 hair-p9s & combs1 & _m o!r knick-knacks suitable = pres5ts4 ,i want$ a few ( !m1 & f\nd t ,o ,%ige ,san 0 a tal5t$ %opp]2 %e _h h] limit1 t5 s51 & usually succe$$ 9 gett+ ! article = t sum1 :atev] ! orig9al price might h be54 ,z ,i w&]$ r\nd e>ly ! next morn+ ,i f\nd t ! yama _h already be5 mov$ to _! /ations 9 v>i\s ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,temple ,,g>d51 ,,seigwanji /reets1 & 7 be+ clean$ up 9 prep>ation = ! day's p]=mances4 ,! t[n is /udd$ ) tall fire-pro( g-d[ns1 9 :i* ! preci\s vehicles are safely /or$ dur+ ! re/ ( ! ye>4 ,ne> ,maib>a !re 7 l>ge or*>ds ( p]simmons ) brilliant-color$ fruit1 :i*1 z ,&rew ,m>vel says ( ! oranges1 8hang l gold lamps 9 a gre5 night40 ,!y 7 p>ticul>ly beautiful 9 ! well-design$ g>d5 ( ,seigwanji1 :]e ,i made "s sket*es4 ,x is a f9e example ( a temple g>d51 & "s massive ev]gre5 oaks =m an impressive backgr\nd to ! gray /ones1 ! c>efully tra9$ p9es1 & ! trimly clipp$ %rubs2 b except = ! p]simmons1 a few r$d5+ maple leaves1 "s late blooms ( platycodon1 & ! sc>let b]ries ( a little ardisia1 x 0 all gre5 & gray4 ,illu/ration3 ,,m9iature ,,pagoda ,,9 ,,! ,,temple ,,g>d51 ,,seigwanji ,9 ! cottage g>d5s ne> ,suzukawa1 a little /ation on ! ,tokaido to ! s\? ( ,fuji :]e ,i made a %ort halt late 9 ,octob]1 ,i began to see "s *rysan!mum fl[]s2 !y 7 n p>ticul>ly f9e or effective1 b ,i f\nd pl5ty to pa9t !re1 & wi%$ v mu* t ! days & my rema9+ weeks 9 ,japan 7 n gett+ s %ort4 ,! village lies beh9d a range ( s& dunes1 :i* are ov]gr[n ) anci5t p9es1 & beyond !m is ! %ore ( ,suruga ,bay1 a gr& expanse ( gray volcanic s&1 call$ by ! ,japanese ,tago-no-ura1 :]e fi%]m5 are always haul+ at nets 9 l9es ( nak$ br[n figures aga9/ ! blue sea1 or w&]+ back 9 gr\ps across ! s&s 9 long d>k-blue coats1 ) pale-blue & :ite h&k]*iefs ti$ ov] _! heads1 c>ry+ _! nets & p>cels ( fi% wrapp$ 9 /raw4 ,at my tea-h\se1 ! ,ko%uya1 ,i reap$ ! result ( _! labors1 & got excell5t d9n]s ( r$ or gray tai1 lob/]s1 & huge prawns1 cook$ by a man :o 0 a real arti/ & took a pride 9 8 pr(ession4 ,! fir/ really f9e *rysan!mums ,i saw 7 9 ,yokohama1 :5 ,i got back !re e>ly 9 ,novemb]2 ,i 0 disappo9t$ to f9d t !y 7 9 tempor>y %$s put up to protect !m f ra9 & sun1 & n 9 masses out-(-doors1 z ,i expect$ to see !m2 b !y 7 excell5tly gr[n1 & 9 ! s(t5$ light ( ! oil-pap] %ades _! colors %[$ to great advantage4 ,! plants are treat$ mu* z !y are ) u1 rais$ 9 pots f cutt+s tak5 9 ! spr+1 & enc\rag$ ) pl5ty ( manure until ! buds are =m$2 be=e fl[]+ !y are remov$ f _! pots & plant$ out 9 bold gr\ps ( color 9 ! b$s :i* h be5 prep>$ = !m4 ,"s plants are r$uc$ to a s+le /em1 on :i* only "o enorm\s blossom is all[$ to develop2 ^! are g5]ally arrang$ 9 a l9e1 ) ea* fl[] /iffly ti$ to a horizontal bamboo support1 & ! effect is v sad2 b ! excell5ce ( ! g>d5]s is be/ %[n 9 gr[+ l>ge bu%es1 :i* h be5 kn[n to c>ry z _m z f\r hundr$ fl[]s ( m$ium size1 all 9 p]fect condition1 on ! same day4 ,an ,engli% g>d5] :o _h visit$ e %[ )9 rea* ( ,tky1 includ+ ! ,emp]or's celebrat$ collection 9 ! palace gr\nds1 told me t he _h se5 no individual blossoms equal to ! be/ doz5 or s at a fir/-rate ,london exhibition1 b t ^! great plants ) _! hundr$s ( fl[]s 7 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,*rysan!mum ,,%[ ,,at ,,yokohama triumphs ( horticulture4 ,! mo/ curi\s examples ( *rysan!mum-gr[+ 7 to be se5 9 ! ,dangozaka qu>t] ( ,tky4 ,! long hilly /reet is bord]$ on ea* side ) g>d5s enclos$ ) high bamboo f5ces1 & 9 e "o1 by pay+ ?ree r91 y c\ld see gr\ps ( life-size figures ma9ly cov]$ ) *rysan!mum leaves & fl[]s4 ,!y repres5t$ sc5es f hi/ory1 ! drama1 or ,buddhi/ my?ology1 & 7 con/ruct$ ) frame-works ( bamboo1 inside :i* ! fl[]-pots 7 conceal$1 ! %oots be+ br\ght ?r\gh ! op5+s & tra9$ ov] ! out] surface4 ,! heads & h&s 7 made ( pa9t$ wood1 & swords & o!r accessories 7 add$ to make !m m life-l2 ! drap]ies ( liv+ leaves & fl[]s 7 skilfully arrang$ 9 l>ge folds1 &1 z 9 mo/ ( ! popul> %[s1 !y depict$ ! co/umes ( ,daimio & ,samurai ( ! pa/4 ,at ea* entrance ,i 0 giv5 a sort ( play-bill1 a r\ghly pr9t$ broad-%eet ) a wood-cut & a description ( ! diff]5t gr\ps1 s]v+ z an adv]tisem5t ( ! g>d5]'s e/abli%m5t4 ,"o ( ! f9e/ places = autumn colors is ! l>ge g>d5 beh9d ! ars5al 9 ! ,koi%ikawa qu>t]1 laid out by a =m] ,pr9ce ( ,mito z a quiet retreat = 8 old age4 ,x cov]s sev]al acres1 & is c]ta9ly v beautiful1 ) its lakes & isl&s1 solemn groves & %r9es2 b x is sil5t & des]t$2 ! p are only admitt$ by a special p]mission2 & ,i lik$ bett] ! maples :i* l9e ! banks ( ! ,taki-no-gawa ne> ,oji1 :]e cr[ds 7 quietly enjoy+ !mselves1 sipp+ tea & sak z !y sat 9 front ( ! tea-h\ses & gaz$ d[n on ! trees1 or /roll+ along 9 picturesque gr\ps "u ! crimson canopy ( foliage4 ,! little riv] glides along ) b>ely a ripple1 & x reflect$ all ! glory ( ! leaves :i* /ret*$ ov] x 9 sprays ( sc>let & gold1 rem9d+ me ( a ,japanese poem1 8,i wi% to cross ! riv]1 b fe> to cut ! brocade on its surface40 ,ano!r poem1 dat+ f ! "t :5 x 0 cu/om>y to pres5t silk or clo? to ! ,%9to gods in/ead ( ! 8gohei10 :i* n[ s]ve z a symbol1 %[s ! national admiration ( ! autumn leaves3 8,?is "t ,i br+ no (f]+2 ! gods c take ! damask ( ! maple-trees on ,tamukeyama40 ,!re are _m o!r trees 9 ! ri* flora ( ,japan :i* are z gay z ! maples1 ?\gh no o!rs :i* %[ z great a v>iety ( color2 ! d>k leaves ( ! tulip-tree turn to a ri* cadmium yell[1 & ! i*o 7,salisburia7 is cov]$ ) pale gold1 :ile _m ( ! %rubs1 grasses1 & h]bace\s plants ) bright & v>i$ t9ts help to relieve ! solemn ev]la/+ gre5 ( ! p9es & cryptom]ias :i* clo! ! et]nal hills4 ,& s 9 a blaze ( glory ! ,japanese ye> ends2 b long be=e ^! la/ leaves h fall5 ! camellias are once m 9 fl[]1 & cont9ue until ! plum blossom comes 9 ,febru>y1 a connect+ l9k 9 ! *a9 ( beauty & fl[]s :i* encircles ?is happy l&4 ,"o ( my la/ days 9 ,tky 0 sp5t 9 %[+ my draw+s to ! /ud5ts ( ! ,uy5o ,s*ool ( ,art1 :]e ,pr(essor ,okakura1 ! presid5t1 :o comb9es ) a good k ( ,we/]n art a great rev]5ce = t ( 8 own c\ntry1 is attempt+ ) no small success to keep up ! arti/ic tradition1 & to revive ^? arti/ic indu/ries :i* 7 fall+ into decay4 ,he _h invit$ arti/s ( o!r s*ools1 "s ( :om _h /udi$ 9 ,p>is & ,rome1 b ,i 0 mo/ int]e/$ 9 ! rem>ks & que/ions ( ! purely ,japanese /ud5ts1 & 9 _! eag]ness to discov] any motive1 besides ! reproduction ( nature1 9 "w s diff]5t f _! own4 ,at ! ,asakusa matsuri !y 7 already sell+ emblems suit$ = ! new ye>--! rice-rake to scrape ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,ars5al ,,g>d51 ,,koi%ikawa1 ,t,,ky toge!r doll>s2 ! rice-bag1 daikon1 & r$ tai1 sugge/ive ( good f>e2 & ! t>get ) an arr[ 9 ! bull's-eye1 mean+1 8,may y hit ! m>k60 arrang$ r\nd a mask ( ! goddess ( =tune2 & ) a /ock ( ^! to br+ me good-luck1 ,i sail$ away on ! #aj? ( ,decemb] across ! dre>y & fl[]less ,pacific4 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration3 ,,ly*nis ,,gr&iflora1 ,,misaka-,,toge 99 99 99 99 99 ,,books ,,) ,,illu/rations ,,by ,,alfr$ ,,p>sons ,a ,,selection ,,f ,,! ,,sonnets ,,( ,,william ,,wordswor?4 ,illu/rat$ by ,,alfr$ ,,p>sons4 #dto1 ,full ,lea!r1 ,gilt ,edges1 #e #jj4 7,9 a ,box47 ,,! ,,w>wick%ire ,,avon4 ,notes by ,a4 ,t4 ,,quill]-,,c\*4 ,illu/rations by ,,alfr$ ,,p>sons4 #hvo1 ,ornam5tal ,half ,lea!r1 #b #jj4 ,,! ,,quiet ,,life4 ,c]ta9 ,v]ses by ,v>i\s ,h&s3 ! ,motive set =? 9 a ,prologue & ,epilogue by ,,au/9 ,,dobson2 ! :ole ,adorn$ ) ,num]\s ,draw+s by ,,edw9 ,a4 ,,abbey & ,,alfr$ ,,p>sons4 #dto1 ,ornam5tal ,lea!r1 ,gilt ,edges1 #g #ej4 7,9 a ,box47 ,,old ,,songs4 ,) ,draw+s by ,,edw9 ,a4 ,,abbey & ,,alfr$ ,,p>sons4 ,) ,m\nt$ ,india ,pro( ,frontispiece1 left loose = fram+4 #dto1 ,ornam5tal ,lea!r ,cov]1 ,gilt ,edges1 #g #ej4 7,9 a ,box47 ,,publi%$ ,,by ,,h>p] ,,bro!rs1 ,,new ,,york4 ,,footnotes3 ,a ,be=e ,i left ,t5n5ji he wrote 9 "o ( my sket*-books ! poem inscrib$ above 9 ,japanese *>act]s4 ,! read+ is1 8,yukuri no ,omi no midzu-umi no fukaki kokoro wa *iyomo *igiran10 & x may be r\ghly translat$ ?us3 ,deep z ! wat] ( ,lake ,biwa1 my he>t has be5 ev] true & *angeless s9ce *ance br\ght u toge!r4 ,b 8,daikon0 is a l>ge k9d ( :ite radi%1 :i* is boil$ & cut 9 /rips & s]v$ z a savor ) e meal2 x is v t\gh1 & bo? ! smell & ! flavor are repulsive4 ,a well-kn[n ,yokohama poet has writt5 "s v]ses on ! subject1 :i* %[ a great k ( cul9>y ,fr5*1 & a root$ dislike to ! vegetable :i* is %>$ by mo/ =eign]s4 ,x comm5ces 9 ?is way3 ,cook loquitur 7g5tly74 ,won't daikon d ,to /ew ,) c>rots & a bean or two8 ,me?9ks 'tw\ld give a savor r>e ,to cutlets la ,f9ancire4 ,won't daikon d8 ,ma/] 7decisively74 ,no--daikon w n d6