,transcriber's ,notes3 ,the original spelling1 hyphenation1 and punctuation have been retained1 with the exception of apparent typographical errors which have been corrected4 ,text in ,italics is indicated between underscores4 ,text in small capitals has been replaced by regular uppercase text4 ,,american ,,beer ,glimpses of ,its ,history and ,description of ,its ,manufacture ,,new ,,york3 ,,united ,,states ,,brewers' ,,association #aiji ,,preface ,this book is composed mainly of selected parts of two separate essays written by the undersigned and published many years ago on two different occasions and for two widely dissimilar purposes4 ,the reproduction of these sketches in the present form appears to be warranted by a growing demand for information concerning the process of brewing of which one of the two essays here referred to contains a popular description1 often quoted not only in magazines and newspapers1 but also in encyclopaedias4 ,that booklet1 copyrighted by ,mr4 ,george ,ehret1 is now out of print2 but with characteristic kindness ,mr4 ,ehret has authorized the ,united ,states ,brewers' ,association to reprint the whole or any part of it1 as present needs may demand4 ,we have1 accordingly1 reproduced without abridgment everything relating to the processes of brewing1 malting1 refrigeration1 etc41 and have only changed or amplified the remainder of the text in such a manner as to bring it up to date4 ,as to the historical part1 the sketches herein contained are not intended to go beyond the narrow limit indicated by the sub-title4 ,they afford only random glimpses of the history of ,american brewing1 but enough1 probably1 to create in the mind of the reader a desire to read those other books published by the ,association1 in which the subject is treated fully and comprehensively from various points of view4 ,g4 ,,thomann4 ,,new ,,york1 ,,november1 #aiji4 ,,chapter ,i4 ,,new ,,england ,the writer of an historical essay dealing with the origin of the art of brewing1 even in countries of comparatively recent civilization1 cannot escape the necessity of taking into account a certain element of mythical obscurity1 calculated to throw a legendary glamour around and about the introduction of a beverage1 the invention of which has been ascribed by the popular imagination of ancient times to certain benevolent gods1 either male or female1 according to the mythological systems of the different countries4 ,even the history of brewing in ,new ,england is not entirely free from this legendary element1 although there is1 indeed1 no dearth of well-authenticated historical facts from the very moment when the new communities emerged from the primitive conditions of the earliest camp-life4 ,there can be no doubt that on the soil of ,new ,england beer was consumed by people of ,european origin long before the landing of the ,pilgrims4 ,on their adventurous voyage of exploration1 which resulted in the discovery of ,vineland1 the ,vikings1 it may safely be assumed1 carried with them a supply of their favorite beverage2 and there is more than an ordinary degree of internal probability in the assumption that ,bartholomew ,gosnold1 who in #afjb landed at the point which he named ,cape ,cod1 brought with him from ,falmouth an ample supply of ale1 which in those days was deemed an indispensable commissary article of every ship destined for the ,new ,world4 ,the fact that ,gosnold's party--the first ,englishmen who trod upon ,massachusetts soil--looked forward to a permanent settlement1 lends additional force to our view4 ,it may also be safely assumed that malt liquor was brought by all the exploring expeditions that touched the coast1 or attempted settlements thereon2 and this certainly applies to the party of ,john ,smith1 to whom we owe both the name and a printed description of ,new ,england4 ,sidenote3 ,,the ,,mayflower',s ,,ale ,concerning the ,pilgrims of the 8,mayflower10 history affords ample evidence that they carried with them a supply of good old ,english ale1 the brewing of which they had continued in ,holland1 according to their own method and formula4 ,at this point1 however1 legendary fiction appears to have invaded the sacred domain of ,clio4 ,it is said that this supply of beer was exhausted somewhat earlier than the organizers of the migration scheme had anticipated1 and that1 therefore1 a landing was effected at the rather uninviting spot since then immortalized in song and story as ,plymouth ,rock4 ,whether conceived in a facetious spirit1 prompted by a knowledge of the ,puritans' well-known appreciation of liquid cheer1 or based1 as it is claimed1 upon the semi-historical authority of a private diary1 the story is characteristic enough in all its bearings to be true2 and1 if it were so1 what a splendid illustration it would be of the old axiom1 that in history very insignificant causes sometimes produce most marvelous effects6 ,it is an historical fact that ,robinson's stout-hearted flock of 8,separatists10 while yet at their first place of refuge in ,holland1 and considering1 with all the seriousness of their character1 the advisability of migrating to the ,western ,world1 were long undecided as to the course they should take2 whether to accept the invitation of the ,dutch to settle in ,new ,amsterdam1 or to avail themselves of the inducements held out by the ,virginia ,company1 or finally1 to create an independent community in ,new ,england4 ,even after their embarkation1 it was not positively determined whether ,virginia or ,new ,england should be their destination4 ,now it may easily be conceived that1 in conjunction with the historically demonstrable causes of the landing at ,plymouth1 the lack of beer helped to accelerate a final resolution1 and thus prevented a settlement in ,virginia--a course which might have turned the subsequent current of our national development into a direction totally different from that which led us on to political1 moral and physical greatness4 ,if we duly consider what all historians are agreed upon1 namely1 that the people of that part of the mother-country whence the ,new ,england colonists originally emigrated1 still represented1 in a remarkable degree of purity1 the old ,teutonic stock--,german tinged with ,northman's blood--we may be all the more inclined to accept this beer story seriously2 at all events1 we shall understand perfectly what history tells us of the colonial brewer and his place in the infant society4 ,sidenote3 ,,the ,,first ,,brewery ,the first authentic record of the existence of a public brewery dates back to #afcg1 so far as ,massachusetts ,bay1 and to #afch1 so far as ,rhode ,island is concerned2 the former brewery was the result of the personal enterprise of ,captain ,sedgwick1 the latter a communal creation of ,roger ,williams' nascent colony1 a combined brew-house and tavern1 placed under the supervision of ,sergeant ,baulston4 ,these were not the first brewers1 however1 for1 some time before either of them was mentioned1 the licensed tavern-keepers had obtained permission to brew1 or rather1 to speak more correctly1 were directed by the governing authorities to brew beer1 of which both the quality and the price formed the subjects of early legislation and regulation4 ,in addition to these brewing tapsters1 as we might style them1 nearly every well-to-do housewife brewed beer for her own household consumption4 ,while the domestic manufacture of distilled liquors1 carried on in a most primitive way1 was not likely to be neglected by a people whose drinking habits were quite as conspicuous as their piety1 valor1 endurance1 prowess and moral rectitude1 the early local histories and laws afford abundant proof that the best minds earnestly endeavored to stem the growing predilection for ardent spirits by bestowing fostering care upon brewing and malting4 ,the first regulative measure of this kind1 the very one which unwisely gave to the afore-mentioned ,captain ,sedgwick a monopoly of brewing strong beer1 was conceived in this spirit1 and a subsequent law 7#afci7 restoring to all tavern-keepers the right to brew all kinds of malt liquors1 without any restraint whatever1 at the same time restricting the sale of ardent spirits to one person in each town1 such persons to be appointed upon the recommendation of their respective town authorities1 reveals in a palpable manner the objects of the lawmakers4 ,sidenote3 ,,some ,,illustrious ,,brewers ,the social standing both of the public brewer and the brewing tavern-keeper must have been a very exalted one2 and for this assertion there is a strong and direct evidence1 not only in the fact that only voters and church members1 men distinguished by their godliness and exemplary deportment1 could obtain the right to brew and dispense beer1 but also in the still more significant provision of the earlier laws making the licensed persons responsible for the moral conduct of their guests and admonishing them to discountenance upon their premises any practices 8not to be tolerated by such as are bound by solemn covenant to walk by the rule of ,god's word40 ,this established the character and standing of the business1 which in many instances derived additional lustre from the character and standing of the men engaged in it1 for it is an indisputable historical fact that many brewers and taverners not only occupied prominent civil and military positions1 but became influential leaders1 distinguished alike by valor in the field and wisdom in council1 and transmitting to their off-springs 7by heredity1 perhaps1 no less than by the formative power of example7 that spirit of patriotism which gave birth to our ,nation4 ,in the course of this narrative1 this subject will again be adverted to2 but for the present1 in order to put our readers in a receptive mood1 the mere mention of a few historical names will doubtless suffice4 ,such names1 for instance1 as that of ,samuel ,adams1 one of the foremost of our ,revolutionary forefathers1 the son of a brewer and himself a brewer1 as proud of his calling as doubtless were the ,revolutionary generals ,putnam1 ,weedon and ,sumner1 who also brewed and sold beer4 ,general ,putnam distinguished himself alike by the ardor of his patriotism and his undaunted courage and masterly generalship4 ,in addition to tilling his own lands1 he carried on the two-fold business of brewing and tapping until1 obeying his country's call for brave hearts and stout hands1 he joined the ,revolutionary army1 in which he won great honor and lasting fame4 ,after the war he returned to his old home in ,brooklyn1 ,connecticut1 resuming his old business and retaining control of it to the end of his days4 ,the average ,vermonter of our times1 who up to #aijd had lived under a prohibitory law and become accustomed to look upon brewing and tapping as callings to be shunned by decent people1 may possibly find it difficult to realize that the first ,governor of the ,green ,mountain ,republic1 ,thomas ,chittenden1 the man who fills a larger place in the history of ,vermont1 and who has done more for the independence and civic welfare of his people than any other1 was a brewing tavern-keeper--a man whose unselfishness1 patriotism1 courage and wisdom won for him unstinted praise at home and abroad4 ,a modern historian 7,rowland ,a4 ,robinson in 8,american ,commonwealths071 with a keen perception of the fitness of things1 concludes his work with these words3 8,the history of ,vermont is one that her people may well be proud of4 ,such shall it continue to be1 if her sons depart not from the wise and fatherly counsel of her first ,governor 7,chittenden7 to be #8a faithful1 industrious and moral people1' and in all their appointments #8to have regard to none but those who maintain a good moral character1 men of integrity and distinguished for wisdom and abilities4'0 ,one cannot mention ,chittenden without thinking of his friend1 ,captain ,stephen ,fay1 the landlord of the ,catamount ,tavern1 who had five sons in the ,battle of ,bennington1 and left one of them dead upon the bloody field4 ,it was in the council chamber of this ,catamount ,tavern that the leaders of the ,green ,mountain ,boys1 among them ,ethan ,allen1 met after the ,battle of ,lexington and determined to 8unite with their countrymen0 against the common enemy4 ,nearly every liberty-pole in revolutionary and prerevolutionary days stood before a tavern1 the headquarters of the ,sons of ,liberty2 and not infrequently the tavern-keeper was the leader of the band4 ,in her 8,stage ,coach and ,tavern ,days10 ,miss ,alice ,morse ,earle has a chapter on the 8,tavern in ,war10 which opens with this paragraph3 8,the tavern has ever played an important part in social1 political and military life1 has helped to make history4 ,from the earliest days when men gathered to talk over the terrors of ,indian warfare2 through the renewal of these fears in the ,french and ,indian ,wars1 before and after the glories of ,louisbourg and through all the anxious but steadfast years preceding and during the ,revolution1 these gatherings were held in taverns and ordinaries4 ,what a scene took place in the ,brookfield tavern6 ,the only ordinary1 that of ,goodman ,ayers1 was a garrison house as well as a tavern and the sturdy landlord was commander of the train band40 ,miss ,earle cites many such examples and we might readily add a score of illustrious names borne by tavern-keepers and brewing tapsters who distinguished themselves in the ,revolution and whose deeds form some of the most brilliant chapters of our history4 ,if the ,british considered the taverns as the hot-beds of sedition1 as in fact they did1 the ,patriots with equal justice regarded them as the nurseries of liberty2 and it is not at all unlikely that in the tavern of his father-in-law1 where he so often made himself useful as a tapster1 ,patrick ,henry imbibed the ideas which culminated in his soul-stirring utterance1 8,give me liberty or give me death40 ,enough has been said1 we trust1 to prove the truth of the assertion that throughout the ,colonial period1 and up to the time of the adoption of the ,constitution1 the trade was practiced by the very best people--men whose names adorn the pages of our history1 and remind us of the fact that this industry has at all times given to the cause of freedom and popular rights some of the most eminent champions2 such men as ,james ,artevelde1 to whom ,hewlett1 in his 8,heroes of ,europe10 accords a prominent place1 or ,santerre1 whom ,dumas regarded as 8the gigantic personification of the popular will10 a man who sacrificed all he possessed in order to alleviate the sufferings of his people4#a #a ,for the names of prominent brewers in ,new ,york1 see ,chap4 ,,ii4 ,sidenote3 ,,spirit ,,of ,,early ,,legislation ,in all the laws and ordinances relating to brewing1 erroneous economic theories1 fiscal considerations and a natural but often misguided desire to foster home industries1 seemed to be in continual conflict with the avowed intention of encouraging the consumption of malt liquors1 not only for moral and hygienic reasons1 but also because the minds of the ,puritans were imbued with the strong conviction that beer was the salvation of the ,british nation2 a sentiment to which in the following century1 the laurel-crowned poet1 ,warton1 gave eloquent poetic utterance in his 8,ode to ,oxford ,ale40 ,this conviction arose from an appreciation of the physical1 moral and intellectual qualities of a race addicted for many centuries to the use of beer1 as compared with the effects of spirits1 just as in our own time the celebrated ,pasteur wrote a book designed to encourage brewing1 because1 as he states in the preface1 he attributed the superior physical qualities of his country's conquerors to the use of malt liquors4 ,unfortunately1 every effort to accomplish the purpose here referred to1 was frustrated by countervailing circumstances1 resulting from the imperfect state of the art and the lack of proper materials1 or by unwise measures1 usually of a fiscal or protective character1 adopted by the authorities under pressure of monetary needs or false theories4 ,for instance1 at one time the importation of malt was forbidden1 in order to stimulate domestic malting2 yet1 within a short time thereafter1 the malting of domestic wheat1 rye and barley was prohibited on account of the scarcity of these cereals4 ,at another time1 a desire to encourage the exportation of wheat led to the enactment of a law imposing upon brewers a fine of ten shillings for every bushel of wheat used in brewing4 ,ordinances encouraging brewing by exempting beer from taxation were counteracted in their contemplated effects by regulations prescribing the quality and fixing the price of malt liquors without regard to the increased cost of materials and production4 ,and in later periods the requirements of commercial barter with the ,west ,indies and the competition with other ,american colonies for this trade1 dictated measures protecting home distilleries in such a manner and to such an extent that the drinking habits of the people could not but be changed for the worse and brewing doomed to decay4 ,the lawmakers realized that there was great need of discouraging the use of strong drinks among a people who while 8fighting and praying10 consumed immense quantities of 8fiery ,holland10 which1 as ,holmes puts it1 8,all drank as t'were their mother's milk and not a man afraid40 ,but the condition of things militated against the realization of their object1 as we have shown1 and thus within less than one hundred and fifty years1 with the growing demand for rum as a medium of barter1 brewing gradually declined1 and inebriety continued to spread throughout the colonies with such alarming rapidity that again--too late1 unfortunately--the lawmakers of the different colonies vied with each other in strenuous but fruitless attempts to revive the industry4 ,these efforts were continued in the ,new ,england ,states and elsewhere after the ,revolution2 and as an illustration of them may be quoted the ,massachusetts ,act of #aghi1 8to encourage the manufacture and consumption of strong beer10 totally exempting from all taxation the entire real and personal property of brewers4 ,as one of the reasons for this measure1 the act sets forth the fact1 8that the wholesome qualities of malt liquors greatly recommend them to general use1 as an important means of preserving the health of the citizens of this commonwealth1 and of preventing the pernicious effect of spirituous liquors40 ,that under more favorable circumstances the industry would doubtless have progressed rapidly we may infer from the uncommon degree of prosperity which both malting and brewing attained during the brief intervals of the unhampered operations of fostering legislation4 ,as early as #afda1 ,john ,appleton1 a representative to the ,general ,court1 established a very fine malt-house1 and engaged extensively in the cultivation of hops4 ,he and ,samuel ,livermore began very early to experiment with maize as a substitute for wheat1 oats or barley1 and ,winthrop1 the younger1 of ,connecticut1 having devoted serious study to this question1 finally read a most interesting paper on the subject before the ,royal ,society in ,london1 presenting at the same time samples of ,indian corn beer of a very palatable nature and good quality4 ,the malt of ,new ,england soon acquired a wide-spread reputation for its excellent quality1 and relatively large quantities were exported to the neighboring colonies1 particularly to ,pennsylvania4 ,this historical fact is of more than ordinary interest1 for it shows that the use of maize1 a material which1 in conjunction with malted barley1 the modern brewer uses for the improvement of the quality of his product1 is a thoroughly ,american practice1 sanctioned by long experience1 and approved by the taste of the consumer4 ,in a primitive way1 however1 ,indian corn was used for brewing very much earlier1 if we may believe ,sir ,richard ,grenville1 who1 in his description of ,virginia1 relates that he saw maize used in brewing by the ,english of that colony4 ,sidenote3 ,,effects ,,of ,,free ,,rum ,practically1 brewing had ceased to exist as an industry before the ,new ,england colonies had reached ,statehood2 it was revived for a short space of time when ,alexander ,hamilton introduced his revenue system1 and many members of ,congress1 prompted by moral and hygienic considerations1 supported his efforts to encourage the manufacture4 ,the spirit of the times as to this question is clearly reflected in the speeches of eminent statesmen and the writings of philosophers1 all of whom agreed1 to quote the words of the 8,digest of ,manufactures0 and of ,gallatin1 that 8the moralizing tendency and salubrious nature of fermented liquors recommend them to serious consideration40 ,but neither such sentiments nor the positive labors of ,dr4 ,benjamin ,rush1 who aimed at the popularization of beer through the total exclusion of ardent spirits1 could prevail against the firmly rooted predilection for spirits1 made universal by the general practice of rural distilling in all grain-producing ,states as well as in those ,states in which the trade with the ,west ,indies made molasses a common article of barter4 ,in the entire country1 excepting ,new ,york and ,pennsylvania1 the total production of malt liquors in #ahji-aj amounted to barely forty-five thousand barrels1 of which about twenty-three thousand barrels 7#ca gallons7 were brewed in ,massachusetts1 while ,new ,york and ,pennsylvania produced #aci1jjj barrels4 ,during the brief era of the first internal revenue system1 with its ,whiskey ,revolution and other open violations of the law1 brewing did indeed regain some of its lost ground1 only to relapse again into its former somnolent condition1 however1 as soon as the 8free-whiskey0 policy was reintroduced4 ,when1 four decades after ,hamilton's rgime1 the temperance movement began to make itself felt in ,new ,england1 the brewing industry1 the very agency which all our great statesmen had sought to employ against the whiskey habit1 had to atone for the sins of the rural distillers1 to whose unlimited operations is due all the misery and degradation that lent a justifying aspect to the demands of the reformers4 ,under prohibitory rule in ,maine1 ,new ,hampshire1 ,massachusetts and other eastern ,states1 the general use of ardent spirits1 manufactured outside of1 but freely sold within the borders of these ,states1 tended to confirm the rum habit1 and this was all the more inevitable1 because for reasons well known to every one familiar with the question1 malt liquors cannot be sold surreptitiously without great expense and imminent risk of detection4 ,this explains why before the introduction of the internal revenue system of #ahfa1 which imparted a powerful impetus to brewing throughout the country1 the industry lagged behind in ,massachusetts1 ,connecticut and ,rhode ,island and was never able to gain a permanent foothold in ,maine4 ,in #ahfc the total production of malt liquors in all the ,new ,england ,states1 excepting ,massachusetts1 amounted to #di1fjg barrels1 a little more than double the quantity produced in #ahji-aj in ,massachusetts alone4 ,of these #di1fjg barrels ,connecticut produced #ac1jee2 ,maine1 #b1bjg2 ,new ,hampshire1 #be1ide2 ,rhode ,island1 #g1jbi and ,vermont #a1cga barrels4 ,in the same year 7#ahfc7 the total production of malt liquors in ,massachusetts amounted to #aab1jjj barrels4 ,sidenote3 ,,the ,,counter ,,reformation ,at about this time a very strong current of public opinion1 set in motion by official reports as to the manifest healthfulness of malt liquors as shown by sanitary inspections of the ,union camps1 began to weaken the indiscriminate crusades of ultra-reformers against all kinds of stimulants2 and ,massachusetts1 then burdened by an absurd prohibitory law1 again1 as so often before1 took the lead in this counter-reformation4 ,several years elapsed before the movement culminated in the now celebrated report of the ,state ,board of ,health of ,massachusetts1 in which ,dr4 ,bowditch1 under the title of 8,intemperance in the ,light of ,cosmic ,laws10 summarized the experiences1 convictions and opinions of eminent scientists1 philosophers1 public officials and philanthropists from all parts of the globe1 and reached the conclusion1 based on this vast mass of testimony1 that 8light beer and ale can be used even freely without any very apparent injury to the individual or without causing intoxication1 and that some writers even think they do no harm1 but real good1 if used moderately40 ,the direct result of this agitation and of a comprehensive legislative inquiry into the different phases of this question1 under ,governor ,john ,a4 ,andrews in #ahfg1 was the repeal of prohibition in ,massachusetts in #ahfh4 ,connecticut1 after essentially modifying the prohibitory law1 totally repealed it in #ahfg1 substituting a license law4 ,in ,new ,hampshire the manufacture and sale of beer1 cider and native wine had not been forbidden by the so-called ,prohibition ,act of #ahee4 ,rhode ,island also repealed her prohibitory law in #ahfc4 ,vermont was the only ,new ,england ,state1 excepting ,maine1 of course1 in which the ,maine law of #aheb remained then in force4 ,from the almost instantaneous effect of these measures1 superadded to the operation of the ,federal tax-law1 the brewing industry1 and1 it is needless to say1 the health and morality of the commonwealth1 derived inestimable advantages4 ,within three years1 i4e41 at the end of the fiscal year #ahff-fg1 the annual production of malt liquors in the ,new ,england ,states had increased from #afa1fjg to #djf1aed barrels4 ,massachusetts1 unfortunately1 re-enacted prohibition in #ahfi1 permitting1 however1 the manufacture of liquors for exportation4 ,in the following year this law was so amended as to permit the sale of malt liquors2 and in #ahga cities and towns were authorized to decide annually by popular vote whether the sale of malt liquors should be permitted4 ,repealed in #ahgc1 this act and a number of others were replaced by a license law1 enacted in #ahgd and supplemented in #ahha by local option4 ,constant changes subsequently tended to deprive the trade of stability and particularly of that complete security which lies at the bottom of every industrial success4 ,although a prohibitory amendment to the ,constitution was defeated in ,massachusetts by a popular majority of forty-six thousand votes1 in #ahhh1 thus clearly demonstrating the will of the people1 professional reformers continued their unwise opposition not only in this direction but also against any discrimination in favor of fermented drinks2 and as a result every year brought forth additional restraints designed to harass a trade which ,hamilton1 ,jefferson1 ,madison and many other eminent ,americans1 including ,dr4 ,b4 ,rush1 the real father of the temperance movement1 regarded as the most efficient temperance agency--an opinion which the scientific inquiry conducted by ,dr4 ,bowditch proved to be almost universal4 ,with slight differences as to time and mode1 the trade labored and still labors under similar disadvantages in the other ,states4 ,to this incessant legislative intermeddling1 which frequently produced the most incongruous propositions copied from monarchical institutions or borrowed from small and insignificant cities totally unlike the great metropolis of ,new ,england in every respect1 must be attributed the fact that these ,states are not now in the front rank of the brewing centres of this country4 ,even so1 the progress of brewing there is not inconsiderable4 ,without entering into wearisome statistical details it may be stated1 in a general way1 that but for adverse legislation of the nature here referred to--which1 by the way1 always tends to increase very considerably the home-consumption and surreptitious sale of ardent liquors--beer would in all probability be to-day the common drink of the whole people1 and drunkenness1 very much diminished since the more general use of beer1 would be as rare to-day as it is in ,bavaria4 ,if we compare the increase of production in the entire country with the output of ,connecticut1 ,massachusetts1 ,new ,hampshire and ,rhode ,island during the decade ending in #ahie--,maine and ,vermont having dropped out of the list of beer-producing ,states--we shall find in such comparison ample reason for regretting that unwise legislation 7which ,dr4 ,bowditch rightly regards as a fruitful source of intemperance7 prevented popular taste and inclination from making malt liquors what they are in many ,german states noted for the sobriety of their people4 ,that there is a strong popular inclination to adopt the lighter beverages is very evident from the development of brewing in spite of all impediments4 ,the following figures illustrate the growth of brewing and afford an intimation of the progress that would have been attained in the absence of adverse measures3 #ahhe4 #ahie4 ,united ,states #ai1baf1fcj barrels #cc1dfi1ffa barrels ,connecticut #abh1bbf 8 #cja1hgb 8 ,massachusetts #hgh1ggi 8 #a1ccf1cde 8 ,new ,hampshire #cbb1jee 8 #cfh1fbh 8 ,rhode ,island #ed1cfc 8 #ahh1ifh 8 ,during the next twelve years 7#ahif to #aijg7 radical changes took place in two of the ,new ,england ,states4 ,new ,hampshire and ,vermont adopted stringent license-systems coupled with local option2 but this change from prohibition to regulation does not appear to have redounded to the benefit of brewing4 ,vermont is still without a brewery and the few brewing establishments which have existed in ,new ,hampshire1 even under the operation of the prohibitory law1 retrograded steadily1 in point of annual production4 ,in both ,states1 it seems1 the rural population still adheres to drinking habits fostered by and under the old rgime1 and the population of the industrial centers1 where as a rule beer finds its most favorite markets in other ,states1 is composed to a large extent of ,french ,canadians who are not commonly beer-drinkers4 ,in ,massachusetts1 ,connecticut and ,rhode ,island1 on the other hand1 the condition of things1 considering the instability of holdings under the fluctuations of the license votes in the first-named ,state1 seems to be somewhat encouraging4 ,during the period named1 the production of beer in ,new ,hampshire decreased from #chd1ccc to #cbc1cfc barrels4 ,as to the ,new ,england group as a whole1 compared with the ,united ,states1 the following figures require no comment3 ,production #ahif ,production #aijg ,united ,states #ce1hbf1jih barrels #eh1edf1aaa barrels ,new ,england ,states #b1gai1jhc 8 #c1gjd1ifh 8 ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,,brewing ,,in ,,new ,,york4 ,while the exact date of the beginning of brewing as a distinct calling cannot be ascertained1 there is an abundance of historical evidence that among the very earliest acts of the ,colonial governments1 those tending to encourage the establishment of public breweries were deemed of the greatest importance4 ,it is no less certain that whenever such encouragement did not sufficiently stimulate private enterprise to bring about the desired end1 or when other reasons 7hereafter to be explained7 made it desirable1 the rulers of some of the ,colonial settlements seized upon this source of income themselves or granted monopolies to those private persons who intended to establish breweries4 ,thus ,van ,twiller1 ,governor of ,new ,netherland from #afcc to #afch1 erected a brewery on the ,west ,india ,company's farm1 which extended north from what is now ,wall ,street to ,hudson ,street1 and the ,patroon of ,rensselaerwyck 7the present counties of ,albany1 ,columbia and ,rensselaer7 established a brewery at ,beverwyck 7the present ,albany71 reserving to himself the exclusive privilege of supplying all licensed retailers4 ,as this ,director ,van ,twiller1 mentioned above1 is reputed to have been a hard drinker1 ever intent on finding or creating a suitable occasion for indulging in his weakness1 it is not hazardous to surmise that in erecting a brewery1 he consulted his own tastes quite as much as the needs of his little community4 ,his example is said to have influenced the drinking habits of the colonists to such an extent that drunkenness became a very common occurrence in the community4 ,captain ,de ,vries narrates a number of incidents illustrating the weakness of ,van ,twiller1 and among them is one which appears to deserve a place in this little sketch4 ,cornelius ,van ,voorst1 the stem from which grew a numerous family famous in ,manhattan and ,jersey annals1 was the superintendent of the colony of ,pavonia1 established by ,pauwn4 ,he was a man of hospitable inclinations1 and had just imported a hogshead of ,bordeaux wine4 ,the rumor of its excellent quality reached the ears of ,director-,general ,van ,twiller1 who1 in company with ,dominie ,bogardus and ,captain ,de ,vries1 paid the superintendent a visit by means of a rowboat4 ,van ,voorst received the representatives of ,church1 ,state and ,navy with a princely welcome4 ,the cask was broached and the contents approved4 ,after some hard drinking1 a furious dispute about a recent murder arose between the host1 the ,governor and the ,dominie4 ,de ,vries1 the man of war1 in this instance proved to be a man of peace1 for by the exercise of his mediation and more claret1 a truce was finally effected and 8they parted good friends40 ,this is not the dull ending1 but merely the prelude to something more brilliant4 ,just as his guests were entering their boat to depart1 ,van ,voorst1 to show his good will1 caused a swivel1 which was fixed on a pillar near the house1 to be fired4 ,it was a fine salute1 but a piece of wadding1 falling on the ,van ,voorst mansion1 set fire to the roof4 ,it was impossible to check the flames and the house was burned to the ground1 presumably destroying the hogshead of wine4 ,the business of the tapster necessarily preceded that of the brewer2 for before the colonists could raise a crop of the cereals necessary for brewing--which they did1 by the way1 according to ,isaac ,jogues' description of ,novum ,belgium1 in the very first year after their settlement--they had to depend upon the supply of liquors shipped to them from the mother country2 and1 from all accounts1 we learn that the quantities thus imported were very large and1 to modern minds1 entirely out of proportion to the very scant population of the colony4 ,in the earliest times1 the condition and surroundings of the colonists were such that all available means of subsistence had to be treated very much like common property4 ,thus the ,west ,india ,company undertook1 at first1 to furnish the settlers with what they absolutely needed for their sustenance1--the understanding being that the value of goods so furnished must be returned by the borrower as soon as the product of his labor enabled him to do so4 ,this accounts for the fact that the first taproom on ,manhattan ,island was located in the first warehouse erected by ,minuet1 then ,governor of ,new ,netherland 7#afbf-afcc74 ,sidenote3 ,,governor ,,kieft',s ,,curfew ,the number of tapsters1 under ,van ,twiller's administration1 increased rapidly2 but there is no evidence that brewing kept pace with this growth--probably because the importation of wines and liquors from the mother country still sufficed to satisfy the demand4 ,when1 however1 in the first year of his administration 7#afch71 ,governor ,kieft forbade the retailing of wines and spirits by the tapsters 7virtually restricting the liquor traffic to the selling of beer7 the brewing trade expanded to such an extent that a few years later an excise upon its product yielded a considerable revenue4 ,from this time onward1 brewing and retailing formed the subjects of frequent legislation both in ,new ,netherland and in the ,new ,england colonies4 ,the lawmakers not only regulated and taxed the manufacture and sale1 but they also prescribed minutely the quality and price of beer1 the time when1 and circumstances under which1 it could be sold2 the duties of the tapster and the obligations of the drinker4 ,kieft forbade the tapping of beer during divine service and after a certain hour at night2 and1 in order to remind the burghers and tapsters of the latter inhibition1 he caused the town bell to be rung--an imitation of the old ,european custom of announcing the hour for retiring4 ,his object in introducing the curfew 7the ,norman couvre feu7#b was probably not confined to these things2 it is quite likely that he intended thus to force upon the honest ,dutch burghers the conviction that a man of strong will had come to assume the powers and functions which the licentious ,van ,twiller had permitted to be disregarded4 ,doubtless ,kieft honestly endeavored to correct the evils which had grown up under his predecessor's rule2 but his motives were probably not always of a purely moral character4 ,in forbidding the retailing of wine and confining its sale to the ,company's warehouse--8where10 as he stated in his proclamation1 8it could be obtained in moderate quantities and at a fair price0--he intended no doubt to create for himself a monopoly of this traffic2 and in establishing a distillery on ,staten ,island1 the first in ,new ,netherland1 he very likely sought to enlarge the scope of his monopoly4 ,fortunately1 brewing had by this time grown too strong as an independent enterprise to be absorbed by the ,company in this singularly arbitrary manner4 ,it had become a favorite occupation1 as a local historian justly says2 and many of the best and most respected citizens engaged in it4 #b ,the old ,german night-watchman's hourly song began with the announcement of the hour of the night and the admonition to guard fire and light4 ,sidenote3 ,,brewers ,,revolt ,,against ,a ,,tax ,naturally enough1 the rapid growth of brewing suggested to ,governor ,kieft the expediency of levying a tax upon beer1 and he imposed this all the more readily because1 in consequence of the ,indian ,war which he had provoked by a 8shocking massacre of savages10 the treasury was totally depleted4 ,in #afdd1 he levied a tax of three guilders upon every tun of beer manufactured by a brewer1 and of one florin upon every tun brewed by private citizens for their own use4 ,aware that the imposition of this or any other tax without the consent of the 8,eight ,men0--a sort of assembly representing the people--would meet with little favor1 he endeavored to propitiate the brewers by permitting them to sell beer to tapsters at twenty florins per tun1 an increase over the old price almost covering the amount of the tax4 ,the brewers1 nevertheless1 stoutly refused to pay the excise1 and based their refusal upon the ground that the tax was imposed against the will of the representatives of the people and1 therefore1 contrary to what they conceived to be an inalienable right of every burgher4 ,while their opposition to a government without the consent of the governed may not have been very clearly defined1 the stout burghers of the colony fully understood that taxation without the consent of the taxed was an absolute wrong4 ,the best historians accord in the opinion that the attitude of the brewers1 at that stage of the political development of the ,colonies1 deserves the utmost praise and reflects all the more credit upon them1 because the inducements held out to them by ,kieft in the form of a permission to increase the price of their product1 might have prompted them to yield1 if they had valued their profits more than the political rights of their fellow citizens4 ,the historian ,o',callaghan1 in his ,history of ,new ,netherland1 expresses this view in these words3 8,kieft had no idea of being thwarted by such constitutional scruples4 ,judgment was given against the brewers1 and thus another victory was achieved in ,new ,netherland over popular rights40 ,in all likelihood1 the brewers expected that the protest which the ,eight ,men had openly raised against the excise would enable them to maintain their refusal to pay2 but while this expectation may have had the effect of inspiring them with a degree of temerity which would otherwise not have been aroused so readily1 it detracts not a particle from the praiseworthiness of their action4 ,at all events1 if they calculated upon any leniency on ,kieft's part1 they reckoned without their host2 for that arbitrary ruler not only disregarded the remonstrances of the ,eight ,men and insisted upon payment of the tax1 but he even confiscated the whole stock of beer in the cellars of the recalcitrant brewers and gave it to the soldiers--partly as a prize and partly1 no doubt1 as an incentive to effective execution1 on their part1 in the event of a popular demonstration4 ,the brewers lost their beer and their case1 but they were lauded and they made a memorable bit of history as the champions of popular rights4 ,sidenote3 ,,men ,,of ,,worth ,,and ,,substance ,we may be permitted to digress a little 7though such digression must necessarily carry us beyond the period of ,kieft's administration7 in order to mention a few of the many ,colonial brewers whose names are familiar to every ,new ,yorker1 even to this day4 ,william ,beekman1 brewer1 was successively schepen1 burgomaster of ,new ,amsterdam for nine years1 vice-director of the ,colony on the ,delaware1 sheriff at ,esopus1 alderman1 and again sheriff under ,english dominion--holding office1 with some interruption for forty years4 ,he continued the brewery of ,george ,holmes1 built in #afed1 and died in #agjg at the age of #hd4 ,beekman ,street is named after him1 and also 7it is claimed7 ,william ,street4 ,peter ,w4 ,couwenhoven1 brewer1 was schepen in #afec and #afed1 and again in #afeh-ei and #affa-fc4 ,nicholas and ,balthazar ,bayard1 brewers1 held office between #afhc and #afhg2 former as alderman and mayor1 and the latter as alderman4 ,petrus ,rutger1 brewer1 was assistant alderman from #agcj to #agcb4 ,the ,rutgers were a family of brewers4 ,jean ,rutgers1 their forefather1 had a brewery in #afec1 built probably earlier4 ,alice1 daughter of ,anthony ,rutgers1 married ,leonard ,lispenard1 and one of the latter's sons 7,anthony7 owned extensive breweries4 ,the name of ,lispenard1 says a local historian1 is merged in the families of ,stewart1 ,webb1 ,livingstone1 ,winthrop1 etc4 ,john ,de,forrest1 brewer1 was schepen in #afeh4 ,jacob ,kip1 brewer1 was schepen from #afei to #affe1 and again in #afgc4 ,his ancestors1 the ,de,kypes1 belonged to the oldest nobility of the ,bretagne4 ,oloff ,s4 ,van ,cortlandt1 brewer1 was burgomaster from #afec to #affc 7thirteen years of continuous service71 and alderman in #afff1 #affg and #afga4 ,if certain genealogical charts 7usually considered reliable7 may be trusted1 ,van ,cortlandt was a descendant of the ,dukes of ,courland1 ,russia4 ,he had a brewery in ,stone ,street1 which in ,dutch days was appropriately named ,brouwer1 i4e41 ,brewer ,street4 ,his daughter1 ,maria1 married ,jeremiah ,van ,rensselaer--lord of the colony of ,rensselaerwyck who also was founder of a brewery1 namely1 the one at ,beverwyck1 before adverted to4 ,aert ,teunison1 a most influential man in his days1 established the first brewery at ,hoboken1 and made beer for his neighbors until #afdh1 when he was killed by the ,indians4 ,michael ,janson1 the progenitor of the large ,vreeland family1 was the first brewer at ,pavonia1 in #afed4 ,jacob ,van ,vleck1 brewer1 was alderman in #afhd1 #afhe and #afhf4 ,martin ,cregier1 captain of the military company--a man of considerable importance1 who commanded several exploring parties and subsequently became burgomaster--was the proprietor of a tavern opposite ,bowling ,green in #afec1 and doubtless also practiced brewing4 ,we may now close this very incomplete list of prominent ,colonial brewers with the mention of one whose name is1 and always has been1 of uncommon interest to historians1 seeing that he was the first white male born in ,new ,netherland4 ,jean ,vigne held the office of schepen during three terms4 ,he followed the threefold occupation of brewer1 miller and farmer1 and owned a tract of land1 the site of his brewery1 near ,watergate 7present ,wall ,street74 ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,,excise ,,in ,,new ,,netherland4 ,we will now return to our narrative4 ,at the time of the brewers' protest against the excise1 the number of tapsters in ,new ,amsterdam and the surrounding country was very large2 but1 singular as it may appear1 there was but one tavern for the entertainment of strangers1 and this a clumsy stone building which ,kieft had caused to be erected at the ,company's expense in #afdb4 ,in that patriarchal spirit which characterized all his acts1 he assumed a close supervision over this primitive hotel1 the patronage of which must have been all the more profitable because the ,governor1 to prevent the influx of runaway servants and culprits1 had prohibited the entertainment of strangers by private families for more than one night without his permission4 ,this stone tavern was subsequently enlarged and fitted up for use as a ,stadthuis 7,city ,hall74 ,during the remainder of his administration ,kieft gave no further trouble to the brewers2 but the tax continued to be collected4 ,when ,kieft was recalled1 and succeeded by ,governor ,stuyvesant1 the abolition of the excise was asked for1 but was peremptorily refused4 ,the hope that the excise would be abolished had been raised by ,kieft himself1 who had promised the ,eight ,men that upon the arrival of his successor a change would be effected4 ,stuyvesant1 however1 had no such intentions2 on the contrary1 he at once imposed new taxes1 inaugurated a system of excises and licenses1 and introduced a number of innovations designed to bring the business under better control4 ,thus1 he ordered the complete separation of brewing and tapping1 forbidding brewers to retail and tapsters to brew beer4 ,unlike his predecessor1 he desired an improvement in the accommodations for travellers1 and therefore ordered that tapsters and tavern-keepers should build better houses for the entertainment of guests4 ,but as the number of tapsters and spirit venders had already grown too large1 he refused to license new places4 ,stuyvesant's own report shows that1 in #afea or thereabouts1 nearly the just fourth of the ,city of ,new ,amsterdam consisted of brandy-shops1 tobacco or beer-houses4 ,this was certainly an exaggerated statement2 yet from all other evidences it must be inferred that the consumption of liquors was enormous4 ,we find1 at a fair calculation based on the two essential factors1 viz43 amount of excise and population1 that the tax paid for drink amounted to four guilders for every man1 woman and child of the community4 ,sidenote3 ,,governor ,,stuyvesant',s ,,regulations ,it will be readily understood that the law prohibiting brewing by tapsters yielded additional advantages to the brewers proper1 and that the tapping of beer by brewers in violation of the ordinance1 occurred very rarely4 ,yet so anxious was ,stuyvesant to prevent evasions of his orders that he even forbade brewers to sell or give beer by the small measure to anyone--even to their boarders1 8who1 they pretended1 came at meal times to eat with them40 ,by way of additional safeguard1 he required the brewers to obtain a permit from the ,secretary of the ,colony whenever they wished to remove beer from their brew-houses4 ,to enforce all these new laws and ordinances1 promulgated for the sole purpose of securing as nearly as possible the full amount of taxes due the exchequer1 ,stuyvesant appointed inspectors1 gaugers and revenue supervisors4 ,nevertheless1 either on account of his natural distrustfulness or because he wished to set a good example to his officers1 he frequently visited and inspected the taverns himself to make sure that his laws were obeyed4 ,money still being scarce1 he increased the excise again and again1 without permitting the brewers to raise the price of their product1 until the beer-drinkers loudly complained that with every increase of tax1 the brewers made their beer 8thinner and poorer40 ,these complaints finally induced him to adjust the prices of beer in accordance with the increased cost of production1 and to prescribe minutely the quality of the article4 ,it may interest the reader to learn that beer1 in those days1 was made either of malted barley1 wheat or oats1 and that whenever there was a scarcity of any of these cereals1 the lawmakers usually forbade the malting of it4 ,here1 as in the ,new ,england colonies1 the law provided for three grades of beer3 the first grade requiring six bushels of malt for every hogshead2 the second1 four bushels2 the third1 two bushels4 ,complaints about the quality of beer were sometimes investigated by a court composed of the schepens and burgomasters4 ,in #afee1 when one of the burgomasters and two of the schepens were brewers1 this court1 being engaged in the consideration of such a complaint1 adjourned and personally sampled the beer in dispute2 whereupon they gave judgment in accordance with their own evidence4 ,sidenote3 ,,conflict ,,with ,,the ,,patroon ,before the administration of ,stuyvesant1 the ,patroons regulated the liquor traffic in their own way4 ,in ,rensselaerwyck1 the condition of affairs now became somewhat muddled1 as will presently be shown1 in consequence of the conflict of authority between the ,patroon and the representatives of the ,director of the ,colony4 ,the manner in which the ,patroon first regulated the traffic was simple enough4 ,as we have already stated1 he established a brewery with the exclusive privilege of supplying all licensed retailers with beer2 but he permitted private individuals to brew whatever beer they needed for their own families4 ,subsequently1 however1 other brewers were licensed4 ,in the dorp 7village7 of ,beverwyck--the present ,albany--which had sprung up in the immediate neighborhood of ,fort ,orange1 and1 in fact1 throughout the colony1 permission to build houses1 establish stores1 factories1 shops1 beer-houses1 etc41 had to be obtained from the ,commissaries to whom the government was entrusted4 ,this permission had to be paid for in some instances1 while in others it was given gratuitously4 ,as a rule1 the license to brew beer for sale did not belong to the latter category2 on the other hand1 the fee for such license seems to have been very high4 ,in #afdg1 ,jean ,labadie1 formerly an assistant commissary1 applied for permission to build a brewery1 which was granted on his paying a yearly duty in the shape of beaver1 amounting in value to about eighty dollars4 ,many other licenses had been granted since then1 and the number of tapsters seems to have been very large2 good reasons why the ,court at ,fort ,orange1 representing the ,stuyvesant ,government1 should insist upon the payment of the tax4 ,the ,patroon1 however1 frustrated the first attempt to collect the excise and issued a proclamation expressly forbidding the brewers and tapsters to pay any duties4 ,the tapsters1 of course1 readily obeyed this order4 ,finally1 ,stuyvesant ordered the ,court at ,orange to arrest one of the refractory tapsters1 named ,ariensen1 and send him to ,manhattan4 ,the clerk of this court1 ,johann ,de ,decker1 successfully carried out this order by a ruse4 ,he invited the unsuspecting ,ariensen to his house and detained him1 in spite of the protests of ,van ,rensselaer and the 8schout0 of the colony1 and notwithstanding the offer of the former to vouch for the appearance of the prisoner4 ,ariensen1 although compelled for security's sake1 to sleep in ,de ,decker's bed and to be watched over by a servant1 managed to escape and took refuge in the house of ,van ,rensselaer4 ,de ,decker pursued the fugitive with the intention of re-apprehending him1 but was met by a body of armed men who appeared determined to use force of arms1 if necessary1 to prevent the officer from fulfilling his duty4 ,bloodshed would inevitably have followed an attempt to recapture ,ariensen1 and1 to avoid this1 the officer retired1 reporting the failure of his mission to the ,director and asking that more soldiers be sent with him1 having 8among them one or two who are not nice about taking hold of a man40 ,as was to be expected1 ,stuyvesant resorted to measures which soon rendered the ,patroon amenable to law and order1 and the revenues derived from tapsters alone rose1 within one year1 from an insignificant sum to #d1bjj guilders1 in #afeg4 ,nothing noteworthy occurred thereafter during ,dutch dominion4 ,nicolls1 the first ,english ,governor of ,new ,netherland1 paid some attention to brewing4 ,among the laws which he submitted to the ,assembly convened at ,hempstead1 and which are known as the ,duke of ,york's ,laws1 was one providing that no person should be allowed to brew beer for sale without having 8sufficient skill and knowledge in the art and mystery of brewing10#c and otherwise regulating the trade with a view to securing wholesome beverages4 ,he also introduced the fee-feature into the license-system governing retailers4 ,in his endeavor to conciliate the conquered ,dutch burghers1 he1 however1 refrained for a time from strictly enforcing this rule and other excise-regulations contemplated by his principal4 ,it was not until #afgj that he gave peremptory orders for the collection of the excise4 #c ,the first regular brew-master 7in the modern sense of the word7 was probably ,r4,h4 ,vansoest1 who came to ,albany in #afce to take charge of the ,patroon's brewery4 ,from the date of the recovery of the ,colony by the ,dutch up to the second surrender to the ,english 7#afgd71 the liquor traffic received but casual attention in ,new ,york2 and for many years after the re-establishment of ,english supremacy1 the annals of the ,colony contain no indications of great progress in brewing4 ,in the succeeding chapters the further development of brewing in ,new ,york receives sufficient attention to justify our closing this chapter at this point so as to avoid useless repetitions1 and to prevent the overtaxing of the reader's patience4 ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,,brewing ,,in ,,pennsylvania4 ,in ,new ,castle and ,delaware ,river the ,duke of ,york's laws remained in force until #afhb1 when they were superseded by the acts passed by ,penn's ,assembly4 ,william ,penn introduced brewing into ,pennsylvania at a very early date4 ,he built a brewery near his house at ,pennsbury1 and all his acts and ordinances indicate a decided preference for malt liquors4 ,it was under his fostering care that the 8infant industry0 prospered for a time and made ,quaker beer quite famous4 ,to the excellent quality of this beer and the abundance of it may be attributed the fact that brewing had not1 at that time1 gained a foothold in ,west ,new ,jersey1 the colonists there drawing their supply from the ,quaker brewers in the adjoining ,colony4 ,deputy-,governor ,gowen ,laurie1 one of the proprietors of ,west ,new ,jersey1 made an effort1 in #afhc1 to have a brewer sent to him from ,england4 ,a malt-house had already been established at ,amboy1 8but01 wrote ,laurie1 8we want a brewer1 and ,i wish thou wouldst send one to set up a brew-house40 ,the ,swedish settlements on the ,delaware seem to have reaped a sufficient harvest from the vines which they had planted to secure them an ample supply of wine4 ,it seems that all the colonists had conceived the idea that it would be very easy to make their new home a wine-country1 and it was but natural that the ,german settlers1 by far the greater number of whom came from the ,palatinate and the ,rhine provinces famed for their wines1 should have thought so4 ,the seal of ,germantown bears a bunch of grapes1 among other symbolical devices1 and the inscription ,vinum1 ,linum et ,textrinum2 but although the city became famous for its linen1 its wine never amounted to much4 ,here1 however1 as in ,philadelphia and all succeeding settlements1 brewing prospered for a while4 ,when ,penn assumed control of his colony1 he probably found but a single tavern within his domain1 i4e41 ,the ,blue ,anchor1 located at what is now known as ,dock ,street4 ,the records show that with increasing population the number of taverns also increased1 and early laws and regulations seem to indicate an excess of supply over demand4 ,a law enacted in #afii authorized the governor to license taverns and suppress disorderly houses4 ,subsequently1 other regulations1 conceived in a spirit of paternalism1 aimed at the fixing of prices and of the quality and quantity of food and drink to be served at taverns4 ,from these regulations it appears plainly that beer was considered a regular and indispensable part of every meal1 and this fact explains why brewing flourished in the early part of the colony's history4 ,not all beers1 however1 were of the kind referred to before4 ,neither domestic malt nor hops could be procured in sufficient quantities to supply so large a demand and as a consequence the colonists fell back upon the manufacture of what might be styled a new kind of mead4 ,we have it on the assurance of ,penn himself that 8molasses when well boiled with sassafras or pine infused into it0 makes a very tolerable drink4 ,beer-drinkers probably preferred hops and malt1 and when the short-sighted policy of the lawmakers imposed exorbitant duties upon imported hops and malt before enough of these materials could be raised at home1 and at the same time fixed the price of domestic malt-beer and its quality at a rate which made the business unprofitable1 brewing naturally declined1 and in the logical course of things molasses was then transformed into rum or the latter article imported in the place of the former4 ,the evil effects of this policy must have become manifest almost instantaneously for as early as #agac ,governor ,gordon deplores the decadence of brewing and the almost total discontinuance of the cultivation of hops and barley4 ,after various futile experiments to remedy the evil the lawmakers in #agbb imposed a duty upon molasses1 primarily to discourage the manufacture of rum1 and enacted several laws designed to encourage the brewing of beer made of grain 7not necessarily barley7 and of hops4 ,one of the principal inducements was the entire separation of the sale of beer from the liquor traffic and the exaction of a very low license-fee from the keepers of ale-houses4 ,the use in brewing of molasses1 sugar or honey was absolutely forbidden1 and both the brewers and the brewing tavern-keepers were compelled to give security 7#ejj4jj7 for the faithful observance of the provisions of the act relating to permissible materials4 ,the law distinctly sets forth that one of its objects is to induce 8the brewers to take special care to bring their beer and ale to the goodness and perfection which the same was formerly brought to1 that so the reputation which then was obtained and is since lost1 may be retrieved40 ,the same law directs that the proper officers in fixing the prices of commodities 8shall allow higher prices than common to be taken for such beer and ale as shall excel in quality40 ,economically considered1 the laws fixing the price as well as the quality of the commodity1 frequently without regard to cost of raw material and labor and almost always without due consideration of the condition of crops and the market1 was a serious error and the very text of the quoted ,act seems to indicate that the lawmakers had begun to understand the far-reaching effect of this blunder4 ,one other object of the law1 as stated therein1 was to encourage the cultivation of hops and of wheat and barley4 ,we know that ,pennsylvania ultimately became an important grain-growing country1 but we also know that partly as a result of such unwise legislation as has already been referred to1 the surplus grain found its way into distilleries4 ,subsequent legislation1 such as the act forbidding the sale of liquors1 excepting beer1 to iron-workers within two miles of a foundry1 or the one permitting only the sale of beer and cider on the muster-fields of the militia1 had little effect upon the drinking habits of the people1 in many parts of the colony4 ,in #agcc the ,pennsylvania ,gazette1 dilating upon this condition of things1 stated that ,philadelphia women 8otherwise discreet1 instead of contenting themselves with one good draught of beer in the morning1 take two or three drams1 by which their appetite for wholesome food is destroyed40 ,between the rum or molasses imported from the ,west ,indies in the earlier periods and the subsequent spread of rural distillation1 brewing had scarcely any chance of a healthy development2 nevertheless1 it continued to be practiced in the principal towns1 particularly where the ,german element preponderated4 ,it was an economic fallacy of the age that in grain-growing countries agriculture could not possibly prosper without the distillery--a fallacy which prevailed in the northern countries of ,europe and could not but find universal approval during the pioneer period of a new country where the means of transportation were exceedingly scant4 ,in the rural districts the number of stills increased in proportion to their remoteness from the centers of civilization and in some parts whiskey actually took the place of money as a medium of barter1 just as in a previous period rum had been the main stay of foreign commerce4 ,in #agij there were no less than #e1jjj stills in operation in the ,state of ,pennsylvania1 that is to say1 one still for every #hf of the population4 ,long before this period public attention had been directed by public writers and speakers to the temperate drinking-habits which prevailed in most of the ,german settlements1 and naturally enough1 on all such occasions1 brewing was advocated as a means of promoting temperance4 ,in his 8,account of the manners of the ,german inhabitants of ,pennsylvania10 ,benjamin ,rush dwells with particular emphasis upon the fact that these people1 whom he praises for their probity1 frugality1 economy1 love of liberty and country1 commonly drink beer1 wine and cider1 and he makes this fact one of the principal arguments in favor of his famous temperance scheme4 ,many other writers then and thereafter coincided with him in this view2 among them ,tench ,coxe who 8considered it a fact strongly in favor of the industry1 sobriety and tranquillity of ,philadelphia that its breweries 7at the beginning of the nineteenth century7 exceeded1 in the quantity of their manufactured liquors1 those of all the seaports of the ,united ,states40 ,this may seem all the more remarkable on account of the growth of the distilleries after the abolition of the first ,federal tax on spirits1 brought about in a measure by the ,whiskey ,rebellion2 but it will not in any way appear astonishing1 if the character of the population of that city be borne in mind4 ,philadelphia beer had retained its reputation for excellent quality even during the era of free whiskey1 when brewing throughout the country seemed to be in the last stages of hopeless decline2 but it must not be supposed that in even this city of beer-drinkers the production kept anything like an equal pace with the increase of population4 ,enough has already been said on this subject in the chapters on brewing in ,new ,england and more will be said in the two chapters on the decline of brewing and on the rise of lager beer to render unnecessary a more detailed account4 ,in #ahaj there were in operation in ,pennsylvania #dh breweries with an aggregate annual output amounting to #ga1bgc barrels2 ,new ,york had only #db breweries and an annual production of #ff1hif barrels4 ,the output of all the other ,states of the ,union amounted to but #dd1eba barrels4 ,pennsylvania remained in the lead during about #bj years1 when it had to yield first place to ,new ,york4 ,the marvellous growth of brewing in the ,west did not change the relative position of these two ,states in point of production1 but it changed completely the status of the industry1 as we shall presently show4 ,,chapter ,v4 ,,brewing ,,in ,,the ,,south4 ,in the ,southern provinces1 unfavorable soil and climate conspired with other unpropitious circumstances to exclude brewing almost entirely4 ,sporadic attempts to introduce it were quickly frustrated1 no less by reason of a lack of suitable raw material than on account of a want of skilled brewers2 and also1 perhaps1 because domestic spirits could be had more cheaply4 ,sidenote3 ,,virginia ,in ,virginia1 as early as #afeb1 one ,george ,fletcher had obtained the exclusive right to 8brew in wooden vessels1 which none had experience in but himself20 but his product evidently found little favor1 for we read no more of him or his wooden vessels4 ,from the instructions given to the governors of ,virginia by the ,london ,company and from other equally direct evidences1 it is to be inferred that the repression of excesses in drinking1 and the creation of agricultural conditions favoring the home-production of wine and beer were the two principal objects of the government's care4 ,the latter project1 for reasons already indicated1 failed of realization4 ,the common beverages then used by the people were imported wines1 strong beer and ardent spirits1 and domestic beer1 of which latter an inconsiderable quantity was brewed in the households of the colonists4 ,the former drinks were retailed not only by keepers of ordinaries 7taverns71 but also by victuallers and merchants4 ,debts for wine and ardent liquors were excluded from the obligations pleadable in court4 ,no mention is made of beer in this connection1 and from the exception thus made it is fair to conclude that a discrimination in favor of malt liquors was intended4 ,without further corroboration this inference might be exposed to the reproach of being far-fetched2 but1 fortunately1 such corroboration is not wanting4 ,it is contained in an act1 passed in #afdd1 which provides1 among other things1 8that no ordinary keeper or victualler be permitted at all to sell or utter any wine or strong liquor ,,but ,,strong ,,beer ,,only4 ,and that1 according to order of the first of ,august1 #afdc1 no debts made for wines and strong waters1 shall be pleadable or recoverable in any court of justice in this ,colony40 ,a double discrimination is here made in favor of malt liquors1 viz41 one in explicit terms1 permitting the sale of strong beer only1 and an implied one in the clause which excludes debts for wines and strong waters 7not for beer7 from the list of obligations legally pleadable4 ,the fact is that beer was considered an indispensable part of every regular meal4 ,among the 8staple commodities0 sought to be encouraged by law1 in #afeh1 we find hops and wine2 the premium on the latter being ten thousands pounds of tobacco for 8two tunne of wine0 raised in any colonial vineyard4 ,the importation of ,english malt and malt liquors increased rapidly1 because domestic brewing and malting remained in an unsatisfactory condition4 ,roger ,beverly gives the following interesting description of the manufacture and use of drinks at about this time3 8,the richer sort generally brew their small beer with malt1 which they have from ,england1 though they have as good barley of their own as any in the world2 but for want of the convenience of malt-houses1 the inhabitants take no care to sow it4 ,the poorer sort brew their beer with molasses and bran2 with ,indian corn malted by drying in a stove2 with persimmons dried in cakes1 and baked2 with potatoes2 with the green stalks of ,indian corn cut small and bruised2 with pompions2 and with the batates canadenses1 or jerusalem artichoke1 which some people plant purposely for that use1 but this is the least esteem'd of all the sorts before mentioned4 8,their strong drink is ,madeira wine1 which is a noble strong wine2 and punch1 made either of rum from the ,caribbee ,island1 or brandy distilled from their apples1 and peaches2 besides ,french brandy1 wine and strong beer1 which they have continually from ,england40 ,in #agdh1 the ,sabbath question first entered into legislation on the liquor traffic4 ,no mention is made of the subject in any of the preceding acts1 not even in those passed during the ,cromwellian reign1 when the ,puritan idea1 that the ,state should by legislative enactment enforce complete inactivity and abandonment to spiritual contemplation on ,sunday1 had gained popular favor4 ,the act passed in that year contained the following clauses referring to the ,sabbath3 444 8,if any ordinary-keeper shall in his house permit unlawful gaming1 or suffer any person or persons to tipple in his house1 or drink any more than is necessary1 on the ,lord's day1 or any other day set apart by public authority for religious worship1 444 the court may disable such offender from keeping ordinary thereafter1 until they shall think fit to grant him a new license1 or may restore him to keep ordinary upon his former license1 as they shall see cause40 ,in #agfi the cause of temperance achieved two signal successes2 one consisting in the revocation of the import duty on beer1 and the other in the renewal of legislation encouraging viticulture4 ,the idea of fostering the manufacture of malt liquors found many advocates at this time1 and there can be no doubt that many of the best ,americans strove1 by precept and example1 to bring about a change of drinking habits1 in the manner indicated1 long before the passage of the two acts just cited4 ,as to the encouragement of wine-making in ,virginia1 we have seen that it dates back to the earliest periods of ,colonial legislation1 and that then it was suggested by the abundance of grapes found everywhere by the first settlers4 ,neither these early attempts nor subsequent efforts led to any lasting results1 because viticulture was not understood by the ,english colonists1 while the ,french vintners1 who1 on uncommonly favorable terms1 had been induced to emigrate to ,virginia on the condition that they plant vineyards and instruct the colonists in viticulture1 failed to do what was expected of them1 finding the planting of tobacco to be more profitable4 ,the sporadic attempts to encourage the manufacture of malt liquors was equally unsuccessful4 ,the inducements offered to hop growers1 even if they had been sufficiently alluring to tempt farmers to abandon the profitable cultivation of tobacco1 could not have over-balanced the many difficulties which climate and the absence of industrial enterprise placed in the way of brewing4 ,there was another drawback1 however1--the cheapness of domestic spirits1 which were not burdened by internal taxes4 ,sidenote3 ,,maryland ,under circumstances and conditions similar to those prevailing in ,virginia1 the brewing trade in this ,colony lagged far behind the comparatively rapid progress achieved in other respects4 ,enterprising ,dutchmen from the settlements on the ,delaware had intended years before to emigrate to ,maryland for the purpose of introducing the brewing industry there2 but a want of capital and other obstacles had deterred them from carrying out their plans4 ,in #afgf there were no malt-houses in the province1 and the planters1 chiefly engaged in raising tobacco1 saw no inducement to plant barley or any other cereal1 beyond what they needed to make bread with4 ,the poorer people brewed small beer from ,indian corn dried in common stoves1 and from molasses mixed with bran4 ,as beer constituted an indispensable part of every meal1 it is reasonable to assume that tavern-keepers brewed a similar beer1 unless they could obtain malt either from ,england1 or from one of the other ,american colonies4 ,there appears to have been no lack of orchards at this time1 and many planters made their own cider1 and also brandy from apples4 ,the fact that the law against selling liquors on ,sunday contained a separate clause enjoining owners of orchards not to violate the said act1 proves that these persons made a practice of selling their products4 ,like their colleagues of ,virginia1 the lawmakers of this ,colony honestly strove to encourage the domestic manufacture of fermented beverages1 and1 also like the ,virginians1 they believed that nothing would serve this laudable aim better than to make the domestic product cheaper than the imported article4 ,of curious interest is a resolution of the ,assembly1 embodied in an act passed in #afgd1 declaring that 8noe rates of prices of anie accommodacons be set or ascertained1 but such only as are of absolute necessity for sustaining and refreshing travelers1 that is to say1 man's meat1 beer and lodging40 ,sidenote3 ,,the ,,carolinas ,the great difference between liquor licenses and wine licenses1 in the matter of fees1 in ,carolina1 shows how consistently the lawmakers adhered to the policy of favoring domestic viticulture4 ,even before the time when the immigration of the ,french refugees began to assume considerable proportions1 wine made in the ,colony from native grapes had been sent to ,england1 where 8the best palates well approved of it40 ,it was then the general impression that if the planters continued to 8prosecute the propagation of vineyards as industriously as they had begun it1 ,carolina would in a short time prove a magazine and staple for wines to the whole ,west ,indies40 ,the proprietors of the ,colony had sent to the planters choice ,european grape-vines for transplantation1 and encouraged wine-making in many ways4 ,the only impediment in the way of a rapid development of viticulture appeared at that time to consist in the want of skilled vintners4 ,the ,french refugees1 it was hoped1 would supply this want1 and ,carolina would in the end rival ,france and the ,rhenish countries in the quality of her wines4 ,these expectations were revived when the first colony of ,switzers was planted in the province1 and again1 many years later1 when the poor ,germans1 whom ,stumpel had allured from their homes on the banks of the ,rhine1 were settled at ,londonderry4 ,unfortunately for the cause of temperance1 these expectations were not realized1 owing to the cheapness of ardent spirits1 which1 before the end of the first half of the eighteenth century1 had completely changed the tastes and habits of drinkers4 ,that this was the real cause of the failure of every effort to foster viticulture1 appears not to have been understood at the time4 ,indeed1 as late as #aggi ,alexander ,hewitt1 in his history of the ,colony1 expressed the belief1 that the repeated failures were mainly attributable to the want of encouragement4 8,european grapes10 he wrote1 8have been transplanted1 and several attempts made to raise wine2 but so overshaded are the vines planted in the woods1 and so foggy is the season of the year when they ripen1 that they seldom come to maturity4 ,but as excellent grapes have been raised in gardens where they are exposed to the sun1 we are apt to believe that proper methods have not been taken for encouraging that branch of agriculture1 considering its great importance in a national view40 ,no methods whatever could have made viticulture a favored occupation1 so long as cheap rum monopolized the drink market4 ,indeed1 after the rum habit was once firmly established1 it would have been somewhat difficult1 even under the most favorable conditions1 to introduce either brewing or wine-making1 because1 owing to the change in the taste of drinkers1 there would have been no demand for either beer or wine4 ,if during the first century1 or even half century1 rum had been as difficult to obtain and consequently as expensive as ,european spirits1 the colonists would in all probability have brought viticulture or brewing to that stage of development which would have answered the domestic demand4 ,we have it on the authority of a contemporaneous writer1 that as early as #afhj1 ,mr4 ,lynch1 8an ingenious planter10 had raised 8barley of which he intended to make malt for brewing ,english beer and ale40 ,he had all the necessary utensils for that purpose1 and would probably have succeeded himself and found successful imitators1 if it had not been for the rapid development of the rum traffic4 ,sidenote3 ,,georgia ,general ,oglethorpe's description of the effects of the rum habit in the older settlements induced the trustees of this province to pass 8an act to prevent the importation and use of rum and brandies in the province of ,georgia1 and any kinds of spirits or strong water whatsoever40 ,far from being identical with ,prohibition in the modern sense of the term1 this act had for its object neither more nor less than a change of drinking habits1 to be effected by the substitution of wine and beer for the drinks prohibited4 ,the same trustees who passed the prohibitory act1 sent over large quantities of ,madeira wine and strong beer2 and ,oglethorpe exerted himself in furthering domestic brewing and viticulture1 which he conceived to be the only practicable means of making the people temperate4 ,in this1 he merely reflected1 as we have seen1 the opinions of the early lawmakers of nearly every ,colony2 but he went further in carrying out this idea than they did--in fact1 he went too far1 and thus overreached his object4 ,at the present day1 the experiment made in ,georgia over one hundred and sixty years ago1 is highly interesting because it confirms the conviction1 entertained by all those who have studied the drink question1 that no temperance efforts can ever be successful unless they are accompanied by all the conditions that favor abundant production and consequent cheapness of good and palatable fermented drinks4 ,exert himself as he would1 ,oglethorpe could not supply beer or wine in such quantities and at such prices as to ensure the success of his measure4 ,in the settlements of the ,salzburgers the taste of the people helped to further his object2 but even there1 the drink called beer1 which was made of molasses1 sassafras and the tops of fir trees1 proved but a poor substitute1 scarcely calculated to satisfy a ,german palate4 ,oglethorpe fully understood that a steady and abundant supply of cheap beer was absolutely required to render the prohibitory act effective4 ,in a letter to the trustees written at ,fredericia1#d under date of ,october #g1 #agch1 in which he urgently requested that fifty or sixty tuns of beer from the brewery of ,hucks at ,southwark be sent him1 he said3 8,cheap beer is the only means to keep rum out40 ,it is extremely doubtful1 whether under then existing circumstances cheap beer would have sufficed to keep out rum4 ,there were other considerations which militated against ,oglethorpe's purpose4 ,his own people were dissatisfied with the law2 they conceived it to be detrimental to their material interests1 inasmuch as it debarred them from trading with the ,west ,indies1 8an excellent and convenient market for their lumber10 as ,hewitt has it4 ,besides1 they were of the opinion1 held by many competent judges in our time1 that the climate of the province rendered the use of rum advisable from a sanitary point of view4 ,the ,carolinians could not be prevented from bringing rum into the ,colony1 although after the first altercation1 which arose on account of this practice1 they promised to desist from it4 ,hence rum could easily be had2 and it is not difficult to understand that so long as good rum could be had cheaply1 men accustomed to ardent liquors would not at short notice make poor beer their everyday beverage4 ,even ,oglethorpe's immediate entourage could not be induced to discard rum for the questionable drink which he furnished them from his brewery at ,jekyl4 8,settlers and officers10 says ,mc,call1 in his ,history of ,georgia1 8were known to retire from the presence of the general into an adjoining apartment in order to drink40 ,but1 worse than all1 the magistrates themselves1 who had the power to license ale-houses1 and were instructed to prevent and punish the sale of ardent spirits1 engaged in the unlawful traffic1 or openly connived at it4 #d ,the following curious episode of ,oglethorpe's journey to ,fredericia is reproduced in ,c4,c4 ,jones' 8,dead ,towns of ,georgia03 8,mr4 ,ogelthorpe accompanied them in his scout-boat1 keeping the fleet together1 and taking the hindermost craft in tow4 ,as an incentive to unity of movement1 he placed all the strong beer on board one boat4 ,the rest labored diligently to keep up2 for1 if they were not all at the place of rendezvous each night1 the tardy crew lost their rations40 ,no more need be said to show that the act was practically a dead letter1 long before its repeal in #agdb4 ,a modern historian1 the ,rev4 ,william ,b4 ,stevens1 a sincere friend of true temperance1 in reviewing ,oglethorpe's efforts to substitute wine and beer for ardent spirits1 says that 8,georgia was designed to be a temperance colony1 although no temperance movement had roused up the nations to the woe of drunkenness40 ,and again3 8,thus did temperance strive with charity to lay pure foundations1 and build up a spotless superstructure of colonial virtue2 but it was a movement too much in advance of the age1 and too much opposed to the already settled habits of the colonists1 to meet with the success it merited40 ,a temperance colony with pure foundations and a spotless superstructure of virtue by means of the substitution of fermented drinks for ardent liquors6 ,the ,salzburgers were not the only people of temperate drinking habits whom ,oglethorpe settled in his colony4 ,before them had come the ,moravians--mostly beer-drinking ,germans--men and women of rare virtue and sincere piety1 who embarked for ,georgia on the same ship with the ,governor and with ,john ,wesley1 the founder of ,methodism1 at present the creed of nine million ,americans4 ,wesley1 to quote ,robert ,southey's words 8was so deeply impressed with the piety1 simplicity and equanimity of these1 his shipmates10 that he applied himself to the study of the ,german language in order to be able to converse with them more freely4 ,he had seen them frequently during their tempestuous voyage1 facing the menace of death with the unflinching calm and resignation of their absolute 8,gottvertrauen10 and it was doubtless on this voyage that he conceived the desires which1 upon his return to ,england1 made him a disciple of ,peter ,boehler1 then on the eve of his departure for ,georgia1 and prompted him to visit the ,moravians in ,germany4 ,neither the ,moravians nor the ,salzburgers of ,georgia seem to have received at the hands of modern historians their due measure of appreciation4 ,the somewhat indulgent contempt with which ,jones in his 8,dead ,towns of ,georgia0 occasionally refers to the ,salzburgers reveals a total lack of appreciation of these pious1 upright and sturdy people whom one is strongly tempted to style the ,german ,huguenots4 ,like their ,french co-religionists they were driven out of the land of their birth by the intolerance of tyrannical rulers1 and1 sacrificing all they possessed for the sake of their faith1 they sought homes in foreign lands4 ,both were welcomed and received with open arms by the father of ,frederick the ,great1 who colonized seventeen thousand of the ,salzburgers in his provinces and would gladly have sheltered them all2 but a part of the exodus was diverted to other lands and of that part ,oglethorpe secured a few communities with their pastors whom he settled in ,georgia4 ,goethe immortalized the ,salzburgers in his beautiful epic poem 8,hermann and ,dorothea10--8the ,german's pride and poesy's pearl0--and in his history of ,frederick the ,great1 ,carlyle devotes one of his most interesting chapters to them2 but what ought to bring them nearer to the ,american heart is the fact that ,whitefield and ,wesley called them colonists of the best description1 dwelling together in perfect peace and harmony1 without courts of law1 referring all little differences to their ministers whom they loved as their fathers4 ,wesley said of the ,georgia ,moravians 7all beer-drinking ,germans7 that they were 8the only genuine ,christians he had ever met40 ,whitefield said of the ,salzburgers' spiritual leaders that he had 8not often seen such pious men40 ,no greater praise can be conceived than that which ,bancroft1 ,america's master historian1 bestows upon the ,salzburgers in the second volume of his ,history of the ,united ,states4 ,jones' veiled slur about these people's eagerness to get their beer shows a petty bias which seems to crop up regularly whenever ,american historians lose sight of the close relationship that exists between the ,anglo-,saxon and their ,germanic cousins of other lands4 ,unbiased minds will appreciate ,oglethorpe's profound regret at his failure to carry out his plans1 all the more so1 if the present condition of things in ,georgia be considered4 ,in the 8dead towns0 of that ,state a tombstone may here or there testify to the mundane existence of the ,salzburgers2 more rarely1 perhaps1 a ,german patronymic1 corrupted or ,anglicized1 may remind one of these people2 but that is practically all that is left of them4 ,in ,prussia1 however1 their brethren flourished1 forming a most useful1 prosperous and happy part of the population1 who1 as ,carlyle puts it1 had all reason on their annual thanksgiving days 8piously to admit that ,heaven's blessing had been upon that ,king and upon them40 ,from a general point of view1 considering the ,south as a whole1 it may be said that brewing had gained no firm foothold there during the ,colonial period in spite of the fact that1 besides the ,salzburgers1 there were several considerable ,german and ,swiss settlements on the ,neuse and ,cape ,fear ,rivers in ,north ,carolina1 on the ,edisto ,river in ,south ,carolina1 and in many parts of ,virginia4 ,in the middle of the last century1 and in a few isolated cases somewhat earlier1 brewing received a strong impetus through the influx of ,german immigrants1 but the climate and other countervailing influences retarded its progress1 as we shall presently see1 until at a much later period improvements in the art itself and the perfecting of artificial refrigeration enabled the ,southern brewer to carry on a profitable business adapted to the peculiar conditions of his environment4 ,in the chapter entitled 8,the ,rise of ,lager ,beer10 it will be shown what disasters have befallen ,southern brewing under the operation of recent laws4 ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,,decline ,,of ,,brewing4 ,up to the ,revolution the decline of brewing in the ,colonies continued until scarcely a vague recollection of its former flourishing condition lingered in the minds of the people4 ,here and there1 widely scattered over an immense extent of territory1 a few brew-houses whose product had acquired an uncommon reputation--like the porters and ales of ,philadelphia--remained in operation2 but their output was infinitesimal as compared with the quantities of other inebriating liquors produced and consumed in the country4 ,true1 the lawmakers improved every available opportunity to hold out inducements to brewers and never failed on such occasions to lament the total decay of the industry2 but however alluring the exemption from duties and excises1 premiums on domestic hops1 and the protection of malt and beer may have been1 they were insufficient to counterbalance other economic factors--such1 for example1 as the cheapness and popularity of rum1 which the legislator could not neutralize4 ,hence1 with the exceptions already adverted to1 brewing relapsed into the primitive state in which we found it at the beginning of its ,colonial career1 again becoming a domestic industry wherever a lingering taste for malt beverages induced the people to set up the discarded kettles1 and to brew their own beer1 from time to time4 ,in like manner1 tavern-keepers recommenced brewing in order to supply those of their customers who still preserved a taste for beer2 and the quantities thus brewed for home consumption1 in the narrowest sense of the term1 may not have been inconsiderable2 but we have no way of determining1 even approximately1 how large this production was4 ,such beers were not1 of course1 of a very good quality2 and this explains the well-authenticated fact that the few regular brewers who still continued to brew were overrun with orders from the tapsters4 ,of a certain ,quaker brewer it is reported that1 toward the end of the eighteenth century1 he used to hold receptions in the old ,rainbow ,inn1 in ,beekman ,street1 ,new ,york1 whither came his customers1 with hat in hand1 to pay their respects and solicit a supply of ale6 ,during the war1 when commercial intercourse with ,england was completely shut off1 and the importation of merchandise from other countries hampered by many dangers1 domestic brewing revived in a measure2 but the unsettled state of affairs prevented anything like a complete resuscitation of the trade4 ,from all we can learn it appears that the increased activity in this field of labor was confined to an effort to produce the quantities of malt liquors which before the war had been imported from ,england2 but even this object was not1 in all probability1 fully accomplished1 because other more pressing needs confronted the struggling people4 ,for a short time after the re-establishment of peace1 the slight impetus thus given to brewing derived an additional force from a pretty general movement in favor of malt liquors1 based alike upon moral considerations and economic requirements4 ,we refer to the movement begun by ,dr4 ,benjamin ,rush and carried forward by a strong organization for many years after its inauguration4 ,it was during this period that many small breweries were erected in the towns along the ,hudson in the ,state of ,new ,york1 and in ,pennsylvania4 ,philadelphia1 where the movement referred to originated1 at once became the greatest brewing city in ,america1 the brew-houses there exceeding in number and the quantity of manufactured beer1 those of all the seaports of the ,united ,states4 ,sidenote3 ,,progress ,,under ,,difficulties ,that the brewing industry progressed considerably in those localities where it was introduced1 shortly before and after the ,revolution1 is evidenced by a number of circumstances4 ,as early as #ahjg the production of malt liquors1 according to ,gallatin's statement1 was nearly equal to the consumption1 yet the importation of malt into ,pennsylvania had already ceased in #agic2 thus showing that the adjuncts of brewing in the large establishments were rapidly being perfected4 ,in ,philadelphia1 where the agitation in favor of the substitution of fermented liquors for ardent spirits had found most favor1 the use of beer had become very general1 and soon extended into the larger cities of adjoining states4 ,the state of the brewing industry in #ahji-aj appears from the following table1 taken from the ,digest of ,manufactures3 ,beer1 ,ale and ,porter ,states and ,territories4 ,population4 in ,barrels of #ca ,gallons4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------- ,massachusetts #gjj1gde #bb1djj ,new ,york #iei1jdi #ff1hif ,new ,jersey #bde1efb #b1agj ,pennsylvania #haj1jia #ga1bgc ,delaware #gb1fgd #dgf ,maryland #chj1edf #i1ccj ,virginia #igi1fbb #d1bea ,ohio #bcj1gfj #a1aaf ,georgia #beb1dcc #a1hgh ,district of ,columbia #bd1jbc #b1ijj ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------- #d1fee1eje #ahb1fji ,the per capita production of malt liquors in the ,states named 7the total amount produced being #e1ged1gcg gallons7 amounted to almost one and one-fourth gallons1 or1 to be precise1 to #d4ih quarts4 ,this does not include what in the ,digest is styled ancient fermented liquors1 made of honey--the old ,german meth1 here called metheglin and mead--of which considerable quantities are said to have been produced and consumed by private families4 ,surely1 this is a gratifying development of a new industry within so brief a period1 and under difficulties of which the present followers of the trade can scarcely form an adequate idea4 ,we quote the ,digest3 8,the difficulty and expense of procuring a supply of strong bottles1 and a peculiar taste for lively or foaming beer1 which our summers do not favor1 have been the principal causes of the inconsiderable progress of the manufacture of malt liquors1 compared with distilled spirits4 ,the absence1 or the infrequency of malting1 as a separate trade1 has also operated against brewing in a small way and in families4 ,the great facility of making and preserving distilled spirits has occasioned them exceedingly to interfere with the brewery4 ,the liquor of peaches1 hitherto deemed incapable of use without distillation1 greatly prevents the use of beer in a very extensive region of our country1 where the peach tree grows with the freedom of a weed1 and where its fruit is of the best quality4 ,cider1 which is abundantly produced in another very extensive region1 rivals fermented malt liquors as a common drink1 and as a material for a customary concoction 7the cider royal7 and for distillation40 ,the want of bottles was pointed out during the discussions in the first ,congress1 as an impediment to brewing2 but the brewer of the present day will scarcely appreciate the stress laid upon this want1 unless a full account could be given him of the character of the malt liquors brewed in those days4 ,unfortunately1 no such account can be obtained2 yet a conclusion may be ventured from the statement that1 until a ,philadelphia brewer of the name of ,robert ,hare1 invented1 in #ahji1 a peculiarly constructed cask and faucet1 no method was known of preserving beer1 on tap1 in partly filled vessels4 ,what the word preserving means in this connection will appear from the following passage of the ,digest3 8,the want of a head1 or top of foam1 is now observable in the tap beers of ,europe1 and it is presumable that this object of fancy or taste will not1 therefore1 be in future deemed indispensable in ,american tap houses and families4 ,we have been used to consider the want of this foam as an evidence of badness40 ,that the use of the liquor of peaches prevented the introduction of the brewing industry into the ,southern ,states1 is an observation of as much force to-day as it was nearly a hundred years ago2 but later experiences have demonstrated the fact1 that the influence of climatic conditions1 coupled with the high price of ice1 is quite as unfavorable to the industry as the abundance of fruit and the tastes of the people4 ,in addition to a scarcity of bottles1 there was also a want of cork and wire for bottling purposes4 ,establishments for manufacturing these three articles were just beginning to grow into some importance1 and1 of course1 demanded protection1 which was granted at least to one of them4 ,by the ,act of ,march #bg1 #ahjd1 quart bottles1 which1 in order to foster the brewing industry1 had theretofore been exempt from the duty upon glassware1 were taxed sixty cents per gross2 yet the home supply remained behind the demand4 ,all these impediments1 however1 would not so materially have retarded the progress of brewing1 if laws tending to restrict country distilling could have been maintained2 and1 from the standpoint of true temperance1 nothing could have appeared so desirable as a judicious restraint upon what might be styled rural distillation4 ,all authorities concur in the opinion--confirmed by the voluminous report of the ,statistical ,bureau of ,switzerland--that in ,sweden unrestricted distillation in the rural districts rendered intemperance a national vice of consequences all the more pernicious as1 owing to the unavoidable deficiencies of a primitive mode of distillation1 the spirituous liquors produced were of an extremely ardent nature4 ,but it was precisely in respect to country distilling that our first restrictive laws were only partially successful4 ,those persons who distilled for the trade cheerfully obeyed the laws from the very beginning2 and had they not elected to do so1 little difficulty could have been experienced in controlling and coercing them4 ,it was not the trade distiller1 if this term may be allowed1 but the distilling farmer from whom the opposition to excises emanated1 and with him1 the question resolved itself into one of personal rights1 on the one hand1 and of a limitation of the taxing power of the ,federal ,government on the other4 ,insufficient1 both as to time and mode1 as had been the test to which the excise system was subjected1 it was1 nevertheless1 proved beyond question that1 coupled with a sufficiently high import duty1 it could have fully realized the ethical objects of its framers1 if the ,government had been able to execute it rigorously1 and the people had been willing to live up to it4 ,at the end of the first decade of the last century rural distilling recommenced with renewed vigor in all grain-producing ,states4 ,from this time onward the brewing industry developed somewhat more rapidly in ,pennsylvania and ,new ,york on account of the great influx of immigrants from beer countries2 while in the other ,states it either remained stationary or progressed very slowly1 constantly struggling against great difficulties and impediments4 ,the extent of the progress of brewing within forty years1 i4e41 from #ahaj to #ahej1 is clearly stated in these figures3 #ahaj3 #abi breweries producing #e1ged1gcg gals4 beer #ahej3 #dca 8 8 #bc1bfg1gcj 8 #ahej3 ,production of beer in ,penn4 ,n4,y4 #ah1hbe1jif 8 #ahej3 8 8 8 all other ,states #d1ddb1fcd 8 ,during all this time1 and up to #ahdb1 or thereabout1 the beers produced in this country were of the kind known as ale and porter1 and some of these had acquired a reputation for palatableness and strength which rendered them formidable competitors of ,english ales in foreign markets4 ,,chapter ,,vii4 ,,the ,,rise ,,of ,,lager ,,beer4 ,lager-beer1 as a product of ,american industry1 although introduced1 as has been intimated1 about the year #ahdb1 did not gain popular favor until the decade following its introduction2 nevertheless1 all authorities agree that it tended even at that time to impart a strong impetus to brewing4 ,as to the exact date of its introduction1 and the person by whom it was first introduced1 there still exists so much uncertainty that no writer on the subject has ventured to go beyond mere hypothetical assertions4 ,did we not live in an enlightened age1 the mystery in which the origin of ,american lager-beer is shrouded might add another legend to the many mythical tales which1 variously colored by different nations1 are current concerning the father of real beer4 ,we say real beer1 for1 although the use of a wine-like beverage1 extracted from barley1 extends far into the prehistoric ages1 real beer 7that is1 the drink known to us by that name7 is of more recent origin2 yet1 as to place and date of the latter1 nothing definite can be known4 ,while some attribute the invention of hopped malt beer to ,jan ,primus 7,john ,i71 a scion of the stock of ,burgundy princes1 who lived about the year #abea1 others ascribe it to ,jean ,sans ,peur 7#acga-adai71 otherwise known as ,ganbrivius4 ,a corruption of either name may plausibly be shown to have resulted in the present name of the ,king of ,beer1 viz41 ,gambrinus1 whom we are accustomed to see represented in the habit of a knight of the middle ages1 with the occasional addition of a crown4 ,popular imagination1 it seems1 attached so much importance to beer that in according the honor of its invention1 it could not be satisfied with anything less than a king2 just as the ,egyptians1 in remote antiquity1 ascribed the invention of their barley-drink to their benevolent god ,osiris1 while the ancient ,germans conceived of a brew-house in ,walhalla1 under the supervision of a presiding deity4 ,as a bit of amusing anachronism1 it may be mentioned that there is a poetical apotheosis of ,gambrinus1 which elevates that personage to the dignity of a heathen god1 alongside of ,bacchus4 ,this slight digression from our subject1 although showing how much mystery has at all times clouded the origin and the originator of beer1 may not be regarded by our readers as a sufficient excuse for our inability to supply the needed information2 but1 much as we may regret this1 we cannot help it4 ,according to the testimony of the late ,mr4 ,frederick ,lauer1 who himself brewed lager-beer in #ahdd1 the honor of having first brewed the famous drink of to-day1 belongs to one ,wagner1 of whom it is said1 that1 shortly after his arrival in ,america1 in #ahdb1 he set up a lager-beer brewery in a small building situated in the suburbs of ,philadelphia4 ,lauer enjoyed the reputation of a walking encyclopedia of ,american brewing2 as a matter of fact1 he took a prominent part in organizing the ,national ,brewers' ,association and bringing about concerted action by the brewers in all matters relating to their trade1 and kept himself well posted in all that concerned his colleagues4 ,in #ahhe1 a few years after his demise1 the ,united ,states ,brewers' ,association erected a monument to his memory in a public square of ,reading1 ,pa41 the city in which he had spent the greater part of his life4 ,if lager-beer had been introduced before the date here given1 ,lauer certainly would have known it4 ,we may take it for granted1 then1 on ,lauer's authority1 that lager-beer was introduced in #ahdb4 ,within six years from that date1 ,german immigration began to assume unprecedented proportions2 the hospitable shores of our country became the refuge of a great number of highly educated men1 of skilled artisans and comparatively well-to-do tradesmen4 ,the total foreign population increased from #ahej to #ahfj at the rate of ninety per cent41 and we may infer from the following figures to what extent this great influx of beer-drinkers accelerated the growth of brewing1 and helped to increase the production of hops and barley3 ,production ,production ,number ,value of ,population of ,hops of ,barley of ,malt ,pounds ,bushels ,brewers ,liquors #ahej--bc1aia1hgf #c1dig1jbi #e1afg1jae #dca #e1gbh1efh #ahfj--ca1ddc1cba #aj1iia1iif #ae1hbe1hij #a1bfi #ba1caj1icc ,brewing had its earliest ,western outposts on the ,ohio and ,mississippi and along the shores of ,lakes ,erie and ,michigan4 ,pittsburgh1 ,cincinnati1 ,buffalo1 ,cleveland1 ,detroit1 ,st4 ,louis1 ,chicago1 ,milwaukee--this is probably the order in which brewing spread out westward1 closely following the ,german immigrants from about the middle of the thirties4 ,in the fifties ,pittsburgh1 ,st4 ,louis and ,cincinnati had already begun their shipping trade1 extending their operations as far ,south as ,new ,orleans4 ,even thus early that polyglot city had a few local breweries which supplied their customers with a kind of small beer1 a beverage that had to be consumed immediately1 lest it spoil between delivery and dinner-time4 ,it is not to be wondered at then1 that the ,new ,orleans ,germans hailed with delight the first consignments of lager beer that reached them in the year #ahea from ,pittsburgh and ,st4 ,louis4 ,the late ,j4 ,hanno ,deiler1 for many years professor of the ,tulane ,university and a local historian of enviable reputation1 refers to this in his 8,history of the ,german ,press of ,new ,orleans0 in these words3 8,as this consignment proved to be the first movement towards a great transformation1 leading to a change in the habits of the population1 inasmuch as it affected extensive commercial interests1 abolishing numerous small businesses1 and in their place calling into existence great industrial undertakings1 employing millions of dollars as capital1 the circumstance of its introduction1 unimportant in itself as it may appear1 assumes the significance of an epoch in the history of culture that brings the past into direct relation with present conditions1 and is consequently entitled to more exhaustive consideration40 ,it was at about this time that the old praise of beer was again sounded with great vigor by many reformers4 ,the third ,american temperance movement 7the first being that of the early ,colonials and the second the great agitation inaugurated by ,rush7 had again brought out the old arguments in favor of fermented drinks4 ,those who signed the pledge between #ahaj and #ahdj vowed to drink beer and cider only1--and even prohibition1 which up to #ahee had been rashly adopted in seventeen ,states1 but as quickly revoked or annulled in all but four of them--stopped short of cider and domestic wine and in many instances of beer4 ,now that the sobriety of the great mass of ,german beer-drinkers again challenged such comparisons as we have before quoted from ,rush's and ,coxe's writings1 brewing again found many able advocates in the ranks of the foremost reformers4 ,great as must have been the moral effect of these temperance preachments1 they could not1 nor did they1 affect the consumption of beer which was then and really remained confined to the ,germans until after the enactment of the revenue law4 ,even so1 however1 the territorial expansion of brewing within the decade preceding the ,civil ,war was truly wonderful4 ,in #ahfc there were #b1jjd breweries in operation1 distributed over #ca ,states and ,territories1 and producing over two million barrels of beer2 a great part of which quantity was retailed by the brewers themselves4 ,then1 as now1 ,new ,york stood at the head of the list in point of production1 followed1 in the order given1 by ,pennsylvania1 ,ohio1 ,new ,jersey1 ,illinois1 ,missouri1 ,massachusetts1 ,california1 ,maryland1 ,wisconsin1 ,indiana1 ,kentucky1 ,michigan1 ,new ,hampshire1 ,iowa1 ,connecticut1 ,virginia1 ,minnesota1 ,rhode ,island1 ,kansas1 ,district of ,columbia1 etc4 ,brewing was then still carried on in ,maine and ,vermont1 and breweries existed even in ,utah and ,new ,mexico4 ,during the next twenty-five years brewing developed without the least hindrance and attained to an economic importance second to but few ,american industries4 ,true1 prohibition loomed up again and had to be met at the polls2 but although it gained a firm footing in two ,states1 it was defeated in fourteen others4 ,it killed brewing in these ,states1 but its immediate results only helped to accelerate the growth of brewing throughout the country4 ,in many ,states beer had by this time become the common drink of the people and even in the ,southern ,states the people welcomed the establishment of local breweries1 rendered possible by artificial refrigeration and the great improvements in the process of manufacture4 ,just about this time1 however1 the prohibitionists seemed to have realized that in so far as the consumption of beer was recommended by the best minds as a measure of temperance1 calculated to decrease the use of spirits1 in just so far did it help to counteract their movement4 ,from this time onward their whole agitation actually became a fight against beer4 ,but a majority of the newspapers and of rational reformers still continued to advocate the use of the fermented drinks4 ,sidenote3 ,,growth ,,of ,,true ,,temperance ,in #ahha1 ,dr4 ,thos4 ,dunn ,english1 the famous literary man1 scientist and physician1 published a remarkable pamphlet in which he advocated and justified the moderate use of beer4 ,the eminence of ,dr4 ,english as a writer and his unchallenged integrity as a public man1 procured the widest hearing for his views4 ,the book was universally discussed and1 of course1 called forth a storm of adverse criticism4 ,but it made a deep impression and in the light of the progress since achieved along the line of true temperance1 this modest little treatise by ,dr4 ,english has prophetic as well as historical value4 ,the following paragraph has never been surpassed for terse wisdom and philosophic truth1 in all the literature of the subject3 8,the assumption by extremists that beer represses the finer emotions1 retards intellectual activity1 destroys the physical power of the race1 leads to crime and pauperism1 and does many other terrible things1 is simply absurd4 ,nothing can be farther from the truth4 ,certainly the ,germans compare favorably on these points with the ,mussulmans1 who are claimed as water-drinkers4 ,the latter have sadly degenerated since the days when their victorious hordes overran ,europe1 and threatened to place the crescent in triumph over the cross4 ,i am aware that the followers of ,mohammed are not the abstinents they are supposed to be4 ,the ,turks not only indulge in opium and tobacco1 but in brandy--brandy is not wine--the ,eastern tribes in lagmi1 and the strictest believers in various alcoholic stimulants not coming from the grape1 and so outside of the letter of the prophet's prohibition4 ,but the ,mussulmans do not drink beer1 and the ,germans certainly do4 ,the ,anglo-,saxon race rose to greatness under the consumption of vast amounts of ale1 and with indulgence in that stimulant kept up the steady vigor and intellectual power of a race that has imposed its ideas and language over a larger share of earth than any other people4 ,in this country1 where the consumption of malt liquors has risen in seventeen years from less than a million and three-quarter barrels to over thirteen and three-quarter millions1 have we degenerated as a people8 ,last year over fourteen millions4 ,have we not manifestly gained by the partial substitution of a beverage containing a small portion of alcohol and a larger portion of nutritive matter for one containing fourteen times as much stimulation and no nutritive element at all8 ,if you could create man over again1 and make him other than his ,maker has made him1 you might constitute him without a craving for stimulants or for heat-food in its most concentrated form4 ,as it is1 the best you can do is to lead his instinct and direct his habits into the safest channel for both1 and keep him in that as in all other things1 within the bounds of moderation40 ,time has but strengthened the force of ,dr4 ,english's argument1 while the production of beer has risen to over fifty-eight million barrels and the consumption of whiskey has markedly decreased4 ,this extraordinary increase of production has been accompanied by a pronounced gain in temperance and general well-being on the part of the working classes1 the chief consumers of beer4 ,dr4 ,english's conclusions as to the comparative virtue of malt liquors1 so furiously disputed on the publication of his little book1 would challenge very little controversy to-day4 ,we have been making progress in the interval1 as witness these figures of beer production in the ,united ,states3 ,barrels ,barrels #ahhj #ac1cdg1aaa #ahid #cc1cfb1cgc #ahha #ad1caa1jbh #ahie #cc1ehi1ghd #ahhb #af1ieb1jhe #ahif #ce1hei1bej #ahhc #ag1geg1hib #ahig #cd1dfb1hbb #ahhd #ah1iih1fai #ahih #cg1ebi1cci #ahhe #ai1ahe1iec #ahii #cf1eha1aad #ahhf #bj1gaj1icc #aijj #ci1ccj1hdi #ahhg #bc1aba1ebf #aija #dj1eag1jgh #ahhh #bd1fhc1aai #aijb #dd1dgh1hcb #ahhi #be1aai1hec #aijc #df1fej1gcj #ahij #bg1efa1idd #aijd #dh1bfe1afh #ahia #cj1jba1jgi #aije #di1ebb1jbi #ahib #ca1hee1fbf #aijf #ed1fea1fcf #ahic #cd1eia1agi #aijg #eh1fbb1jjb #aijh #eh1had1jcc ,sidenote3 ,a ,,revolution ,,in ,,drinking ,,habits ,the lesson conveyed by these figures is irresistible and as such is accepted by all impartial students of the drink question4 ,prof4 ,henry ,w4 ,farnam says1 in his preface to 8,economic ,aspects of the ,liquor ,problem10 published under the auspices of the ,committee of ,fifty3 8,since #ahdj there has been a steady substitution of malt liquors for distilled liquors in the consumption of the people4 ,while there has been an increase in the total quantity consumed1 the substitution of light drinks for strong drinks has brought about a diminution in the amount of alcohol consumed per capita4 ,moreover1 though the per capita consumption of malt liquors has been nearly stationary since #ahij1 the consumption of distilled liquors has fallen by nearly one-third in that time4 ,how far modern methods of production have influenced this change1 how far it is due to ,german immigration or other causes1 cannot be stated with certainty4 ,the fact remains that our progress has been in the direction of moderation40 ,although the statement that the per capita consumption of beer has been nearly stationary since #ahij is no longer correct1 we have nevertheless quoted these words because they reflect the views of unbiased students as to the rle of beer4 ,a comparison between the consumption of beer and spirits shows at a glance that1 as a nation1 we have progressed in the direction of true temperance at a rate and to an extent unequaled in history4 ,instead of being at the head of the list of hard-drinking nations--as we undoubtedly were fifty years ago--we now rank foremost among temperate peoples4 ,by a singular coincidence1 our ,department of ,commerce and ,labor lately published comparative liquor statistics almost simultaneously with several official and private publications of foreign origin1 dealing with the same question4 ,in all these documents one important fact stands out in bold relief1 and that is1 as the ,department of ,commerce and ,labor expresses it1 that 8this country is well-nigh at the end of the list of spirit-drinking countries40 ,we may be permitted to quote the official table3 ,countries ,spirits ,beer ,wine ,gallons ,gallons ,gallons ,united ,kingdom #a4ch #ce4db #j4ci ,france #b4ea #g4dh #cd4gc ,germany #b4aa #cj4gg #a4ic ,italy 4#cd 4#bj #ca4hf ,russia #a4bi #a4ac ,belgium #a4db #ef4ei #a4bh ,sweden #b4ac #h4hc 4#ah ,united ,states 7#aijc7 #a4cc #ah4jd 4#dh ,leaving out ,italy1 our country should really stand at the very foot of the list1 for the ,russian figures1 notoriously incorrect1 are not ordinarily accepted at their face value4 ,in fact1 this is the only official publication in which they appear without some explanatory note casting doubt upon their correctness4 ,the true significance of this official table1 so far as our country is concerned1 will only be fully appreciated1 if it be borne in mind that the per capita consumption of beer in ,bavaria1 where distilled liquors are rarely used1 amounts to about fifty-nine gallons and that alcoholism is practically unknown in that kingdom4 ,commenting on the marvelously increased consumption of beer in this country and the coincident falling off in the quantity of spirituous liquors consumed1 the ,new ,york 8,sun0 in a striking editorial 7,august #bb1 #aije7 reaches the conclusion that 8,,beer ,,drives ,,out ,,hard ,,drink40 ,the 8,sun0 also notes the fact that public drunkenness is comparatively rare in all the cities of ,america to-day1 among all classes of society4 ,mr4 ,james ,dalrymple1 ,glasgow's commissioner of municipal railways who was recently in this country1 was constantly struck by the same fact as contrasted with conditions abroad4 ,drunken workingmen are rarely seen in any ,american community4 ,yet the time is not so far back when a different state of affairs prevailed in this country4 ,hardly a generation since1 whiskey was the common drink and drunkenness the national vice4 ,the change has come through the substitution of malt liquors for ardent stimulants4 ,as the 8,sun0 says1 beer drives out hard drink4 ,moderation and temperance are supplanting excess in the use of liquors4 ,the ,american people owe their sobriety to the brewing industry4 ,sidenote3 ,,the ,,perfected ,,product ,up to #ahde brewing was confined exclusively to ale and porter1 and the manipulations of the brewer were of the simplest and most primitive kind1 as compared with present-day methods4 ,what would be regarded as a very small establishment now was then looked upon as a large brewery4 ,concurrently with the growing popularity of lager-beer came the almost countless mechanical improvements in both brewing and malting2 the utilization of the scientific researches of a host of such eminent men as ,pasteur1 ,hansen1 ,delbrueck1 ,van ,laer1 ,morris1 ,joergensen and many others2 the practical application of the many thorough investigations into1 and the works on1 fermentation1 yeast-culture1 bacteriology1 etc41 and finally1 the employment of artificial refrigeration2 and it may be said that brewing entered upon a new era4 ,these improvements did not1 of course1 reach the climax of their perfection at once2 decades elapsed before the new methods became an indispensable requirement of success1 and only in recent years have they overcome the conservatism of ale brewers1 with the happy result of adding to the desirable qualities of ale some of the best characteristics of lager-beer2 among others1 a low alcohol-percentage1 effervescence without deposit and brightness under low temperature4 ,since then the ,american brew-house has become a model of perfection not equaled in ,bavaria1 the 8land of beer10 as has readily been admitted by distinguished foreign authorities1 such as1 for example1 ,professors ,delbrueck and ,van ,laer1 who not long ago visited a number of eastern and western breweries4 ,in this respect the brewers of ,america stand in the front rank of the most progressive manufacturers1 their establishments being equipped with the modern and costly appliances which have taxed and rewarded human ingenuity in this particular field for years past4 ,in the table of production last quoted the reader will notice remarkable increases in the years #aijf and #aijg1 amounting1 respectively1 to #e1abi1fjg and #c1igj1cfb barrels1 and a very insignificant increase of #aib1jca in #aijh4 ,in the succeeding fiscal ending ,june #cjth1 #aiji1 there was a decrease exceeding in the number of barrels the average increase of the two first-named years4 ,the greater part of this loss is doubtless due to the panic1 but it is quite certain that a considerable proportion of the decrease was caused directly by prohibition in one form or another4 ,it is difficult to localize these losses with mathematical accuracy1 but there can be no doubt that brewing has suffered in all parts of the country where the ,anti-,saloon movement has succeeded4 ,from present indications it is safe to infer that in the ,south the industry will in the end suffer more than anywhere else2 it is equally certain1 however1 that1 unless the adverse movement should develop greater strength than appears probable at the present time1 brewing throughout the country will rapidly recover from its recent set-back and resume its former rate of development1 acquiring new markets and new customers as has been the case during the fifty years4 ,,chapter ,,viii4 ,,how ,,beer ,,is ,,brewed ,we now proceed to give a description of the various processes of brewing1 which we trust will not be deemed too elaborate1 in view of the special character of this work2 and to this end we shall beg leave to conduct the reader through the several departments of one of the largest breweries of our country4 ,it is to ,john ,barleycorn1 immortalized by ,robert ,burns and innumerable other poets of less renown1 that we must first turn our attention2 but we need not follow his career from the beginning1 as poetically described by the ,scotch bard1 for he makes his entry into the brewery after he has already undergone a great part of his sufferings4 8,they laid him out upon the floor1 ,to work him further woe1 ,and still1 as signs of life appeared1 ,they tossed him to and fro4 ,they wasted o'er a scorching flame ,the marrow of his bones40 99 99 99 ,the entire poem is undoubtedly familiar to every lover of drinking-songs4 ,in it the poet describes all the manipulations incidental to the cultivation of barley1 from the planting of the grain to the reaping of it2 and also all the numerous and manifold operations to which the ripe cereal is subjected after it has left the farm and passed into the hands of the maltster4 ,the concluding process of malting1 described in the quoted lines1 has done its work1 when ,john ,barleycorn turns up in this brewery to begin a new series of ups and downs1 calculated and designed to still further purify him and render him fit for the climax of his fate4 ,malt1 as every one knows1 is obtained by a four-fold treatment of the barley4 ,the grain must be steeped in order to cause germination and produce diastase1 the agent necessary for the conversion of starch into that saccharine matter which forms the primary essence of beer2 it must be next couched and floored1 when it continues to grow and germinate2 and1 lastly1 it must be subjected to kiln-drying by which germination is terminated4 ,when this malt1 loaded upon ponderous wagons1 reaches the brewery1 it is at once conveyed1 by means of most ingenious contrivances1 into malt-scales and weighed4 ,on its way to the enormous bins1 four in number1 which serve as store-houses1 it is subjected to repeated processes of sifting1 screening and blowing--the latter part being effected by means of air passing through flues or pipes1 connected at certain intervals with the shutes through which the malt passes4 ,the storage-bins occupy nearly the whole of one wing of the main building4 ,they form one vast shaft1 divided into four chambers1 running through several stories up to the top-floor1 and leaving on each floor just room enough for a narrow gallery or corridor4 ,the malt is raised to the tower and thence distributed into these bins1 which together hold about fifty-six thousand bushels of barley1 and are so constructed as to facilitate the utmost cleanliness in every nook and corner of them4 ,the first operation of the brewer1 when beginning to brew1 is to grind the malt4 ,john ,barleycorn's sufferings here begin where ,burns makes them end2 8,but a miller us'd him worst of all1 ,for he crushed him between two stones40 ,sidenote3 ,,crushing ,,the ,,malt ,the same powerful machinery which raises the malt into the store-houses1 is now again set in motion to convey the quantity of malt requisite for each brew1 from the store-rooms through a series of shutes1 shakers1 and magnet-studded slides1 to and from the scales into the malt mill4 ,on its devious course to this point the malt is shaken upon sieves1 rocked to and fro1 and constantly accompanied by currents of air1 all of which is intended to separate all germs and dust from the malt1 and to leave the latter as free as possible from useless and harmful matter4 ,shutes covered with powerful magnets1 serve to attract and hold nails1 bits of iron or other similar metallic substances1 which may be in the malt4 ,after being weighed--an operation which one man can perform by simply depressing any one of four levers attached to the scales and communicating with the store-bins--the malt is ground1 or rather crushed between metal rollers4 ,in its crushed state1 it is again conveyed1 in the same mechanical fashion to the top-floor1 where it is deposited in smaller bins1 three in number1 each holding #ejj bushels4 ,the malt-scales1 two in number1 one to weigh the malt when it is received1 and the other to weigh the quantity needed for each brew1 are placed immediately below the store-bins4 ,the double weighing operation enables the brewer not only to calculate1 at any time1 the quantity of malt consumed and still on hand1 but also to determine1 with accuracy and without much labor1 the exact quantities which he requires from day to day4 ,the latter is very important1 because everything depends upon a proper proportion of ingredients4 ,simple as all these operations may appear from our description1 they are1 nevertheless1 effected by most complicated and costly machinery1 in the construction of which human ingenuity was put to a severe test4 ,the principal object of these machines is not1 as might be supposed1 the saving of labor1 but rather the elimination of chance and accident from this preliminary work of the brewer4 ,these most modern improvements preclude almost entirely the many chances of failure to which a less perfect method of sifting malt will always expose the operation of brewing4 ,the presence of any metallic substance or of an excess of germ or dust1 will inevitably spoil the wort4 ,the methods spoken of here not only preclude this1 but also tend to insure uniformity of quality1 and offer1 besides1 a certain degree of immunity from the danger of explosion1 which is ever present in any establishment where the elimination and collection of the malt-dust is effected in a less perfect way4 ,as we have seen1 the floors of the west wing of the main building serve the purposes of weighing1 sifting and storing malt4 ,on the upper floors of the other parts of this building we find1 in separate rooms1 the smaller bins before described2 tuns for preliminary mashing2 the cooling tank1 and a number of colossal vats containing water of varying degrees of temperature1 heated by exhaust steam4 ,sidenote3 ,,mashing ,,and ,,sparging ,having crushed his malt1 the brewer now proceeds to mashing1 a most important part of his art4 ,the crushed malt is conveyed from the smaller bins to a 8,vormaischbtte10 that is to say1 a mash-tun in which the malt is thoroughly mixed with water1 preparatory to its transfer to the regular mash-tuns4 ,neither manual labor nor physical efforts of any kind are required in thus conveying the malt to the mash-tuns2 everything moves by steam-power4 ,the object of mashing1 i4e41 the process of infusion or mixing the malt with water at a proper temperature1 is two-fold1 viz4 #a1 to extract from the malt the saccharine substance and dextrine which are contained therein2 and secondly1 to convert into maltose and dextrine the residue of unconverted starch4 ,the three immense iron tubs1 in which the malt is mashed1 are set in wooden frames1 rising about four to five feet above the flooring4 ,here1 too1 the magnificent plant of steam engines1 of which we shall speak later on1 is brought into application2 it sets in motion the mashing apparatus within the tun1 which is composed of a number of raking contrivances fastened upon two huge arms1 revolving in opposite directions around central pivots1 in such manner as to mix every particle of the grain1 as it drops from the 8,vormaischbtte0 on the floor above4 ,now is the time to realize the importance of the perfect cleaning and grinding of the malt1 for the result of mashing depends in part upon these two preliminary processes4 ,if the malt be insufficiently crushed1 much of the extract will be lost1 or rather1 to be more precise1 much of the starch will resist infusion and thus remain bound up in the grain1 which latter then passes out of the tun with a considerable portion of its starch adhering to it4 ,if1 on the other hand1 the malt be crushed too fine1 or if it be insufficiently cleaned1 retaining large proportions of dust1 a part of the wort will become pasty and absorb much of the 8goodness10 thus impairing the quality of the beer4 ,before the invention of the modern appliances before referred to1 the very best raw material frequently failed to yield the results which the brewer was justified in expecting from it1 and such failures1 the true causes of which were rarely understood1 gave rise to trade-superstitions which the modern brewer laughs at1 conscious of his superior knowledge4 ,while the process of mashing is going on1 the brew-master must be constantly on the alert2 he must watch the temperature of the water1 with which he mixes his malt2 gauge the effect of the heat upon the quantity and quality of his mash2 and determine1 at a glance1 almost1 when to open the valves of the mash-tun1 in order to draw off the wort into the copper or boiling kettle below4 ,as in everything connected with brewing1 science furnishes him a reliable guide in the shape of a saccharometer1 which indicates the proportion of sugar in the wort1 and other instruments with which to test temperature1 etc4 ,when the opportune moment has arrived for drawing off the sugar-laden liquid1 the brewer opens valves or doors in the bottom of the mash-tuns1 through which the wort runs into pipes1 and through a filtering apparatus into the boilers on the floor below4 ,while this is going on1 and before half of the wort is run off1 we witness another operation called sparging1 by which the useful substance still remaining in the malt is washed out4 ,by the sparging machine a continuous shower of hot water is evenly thrown on every part of the grain2 it issues from hollow arms1 perforated on their reverse sides1 and horizontally fixed to an upright pin4 ,as soon as the water begins to force its way out of the holes1 in opposite directions1 these arms revolve automatically2 the raking appliances1 meanwhile1 continue to whirl around1 constantly stirring up the mash1 thus enhancing the effect of the water and accelerating the operation4 ,insufficient or ineffective sparging means a considerable loss to the brewer4 ,when sparging is completed1 the brew-master changes the scene of his activity2 he descends to the floor immediately below the one where his mash-tuns are placed4 ,these two floors are closely connected with each other2 in fact1 through large openings in the ceiling1 which openings are surrounded by substantial guard rails1 we gain an almost unobstructed view of both rooms at one and the same time2 and even if we knew nothing at all of brewing1 the sight of so many pipes1 tubes1 funnels and shafts connecting the upper floor with the lower1 would convince us that the closest relation exists between the two rooms4 ,on this lower floor our attention is at once attracted by three huge copper kettles1 every part of which1 as well as the many pipes which we see here1 at once impresses us with the truth of the saying1 that when a brewer is doing nothing1 he cleans and polishes his utensils4 ,indeed1 the pride which every journeyman brewer takes in the cleanliness of the establishment is made manifest at every step we take2 but here1 in the kettle-room1 where every object far and near is faithfully reflected1 as if in a mirror1 upon the resplendent sides of the brew-kettles1 an extra effort seems to have been made to outshine every other department4 ,the liquid which now runs from the mash-tun into the boiling-copper contains all the ingredients which constitute what we may call the body of the beer2 it is the extract of a highly nutritious grain1 gained in such a way as to justify the designation of liquid bread1 which an eminent chemist has assigned to malt liquors4 ,but all the nourishing qualities of the grain have not been extracted2 a very large proportion1 comparatively speaking1 remain in that part of it for which the brewer has no further use4 ,in the brewery under description these grains are conveyed through large pipes from the mash-tuns to the ground floor1 or1 rather1 to an arch-way where wagons may be brought to receive them4 ,they are used as food for cattle and have proved to be the best nutriment for milch-cows4 ,according to the exhaustive analysis made by the ,agricultural ,experiment ,station of this ,state1 and many other investigations1 brewers' grains1 even when no longer perfectly fresh1 are usually nourishing and1 when fed to milch-cows1 tend to increase the quantity and enhance the quality of the milk4 ,it is estimated that no less than two-thirds of the bulk of brewers' grains1 as they issue from the mash-tun1 consist of water1 and this moisture not only militates against the transportation of the grain to rural points1 but also accelerates decomposition--two reasons which have prevented a more general utilization of the grains by dairymen4 ,a number of grains-drying machines have been invented1 and we learn of others in course of construction1 by which the grains may be profitably dried and preserved4 ,sidenote3 ,,boiling ,,the ,,wort ,the boiling of the wort in these three huge coppers is another one of the essential phases of brewing4 ,the heat required for the boiling is furnished by boilers which send a continuous current of steam through the coils fixed in the copper4 ,these coppers have covers with small sliding doors1 which1 during the process of boiling1 are rarely opened except to enable the brew-master to make his tests4 ,were it not for these covers1 the boiler-room would be enveloped in an impenetrable cloud of steam1 which would greatly hamper all manipulations4 ,as it is1 the steam finds an outlet through a large pipe or flue fixed on top of the copper4 ,it is at this stage that the hop is added to the wort1 but not until after the latter has boiled a sufficient time4 ,usually1 the boiling requires four hours2 at the expiration of the third hour1 or still later1 perhaps1 the brewer will empty the contents of several large sacks full of aromatic hops into the copper1 thus adding the bitter principle to the saccharine4 ,the proper treatment of the hops at and during this stage always has been a matter concerning which few brewers shared the same opinion2 but of late scientific investigations have removed many prejudices which arose from a misconception of the nature1 ingredients and functions of the plant4 ,at present1 the average brewer fully understands that he can extract the essence of the hops without excessive boiling4 ,the object of the boiling is3 #a4 ,to concentrate the wort2 #b4 ,to extract the essence of the hop2 #c4 ,to coagulate the unchanged albuminous substances and cause them to settle1 together with the unconverted starch which1 if allowed to remain intact1 would materially militate against the preservation of the beer4 ,but this does not do justice to the important function of hops2 at least it is to be feared that1 to the average reader1 it will not convey a clear idea of the action of this tender plant upon the wort4 ,without it1 beer would be nothing more than fermented barley-juice1 which1 as we have seen1 was known to the most ancient nations4 ,without it1 beer could not be preserved for any length of time1 and both in appearance and flavor would be greatly inferior to the drink of to-day4 ,hence1 hops not only impart to beers their pleasantly bitter and aromatic flavor1 but they also assist in clarification and produce the preservative qualities of the liquid4 ,the two principal substances which the hop-cone yields when boiled1 are lupulin and tannin1 and it must be the brewer's aim to extract these in just that proportion which the condition and quality of his wort require4 ,injudicious handling of the hops may result in an excess of tannin and a deficiency of lupulin1 and may otherwise work injury to the finished product4 ,the diminutive sparkling grains of the hop-flower1 called lupulin1 are closely wrapped up in the center of the hop-cone1 and should be laid bare before the plant is placed in the copper4 ,to this end most brewers break up the hops1 and the writer was shown a most ingenious and yet exceedingly simple machine which performs this operation in a highly satisfactory manner4 ,hops1 as delivered at the brewery1 are packed in large bales1 each weighing #ahj pounds2 the quantities required for immediate use are taken out of these bales1 broken on the machine above referred to1 and then placed loosely in large canvass bags1 provided with hoop-like handles4 ,as a matter of course1 these quantities are all carefully weighed before being dumped into the copper4 ,scientific observation and practical experience have taught the brewer not to boil the hop too long4 ,formerly the plant was boiled 8all to pieces10 the object being to expedite the precipitation of the albuminous wort by means of the extracted tannin4 ,at present1 the boiling time is reduced to a minimum1 and yet1 by reason of the opening of the hop-cone1 the effects and essential functions of the hop are not in any manner impaired4 ,in the purchase of hops1 the brewer must use good judgment and great care so as to secure an article rich in lupulin1 fully mature1 not too old1 cleanly picked and properly dried4 ,if he obtains such hops1 he may still have room for complaint on account of the lack of that flavor which is the result of long-continued cultivation and the natural advantages of a favorable soil4 ,the latter causes have made ,bohemian hops famous all over the world4 ,any brewer who strives to produce the very highest grade of beer will always use a certain proportion of these extra-aromatic hops in conjunction with the domestic product4 ,for all practical purposes1 however1 ,american hops are as good as1 if not better than1 the average foreign article1 with the exception of a few varieties1 the production of which is also confined to a rather narrow territory4 ,sidenote3 ,,cooling ,,the ,,brew ,when the boiling is completed1 the brewer again descends to a still lower floor1 where we see1 besides many engines1 pumps and other gear1 a large black rectangular tank which is placed directly under1 and connected with the boiling-coppers4 ,this is technically called a hop-retainer or hop-back2 the former term undoubtedly more intelligible than the latter1 and certainly more appropriate because the function of this tank is to check or retain the hops1 while the hopped wort1 flowing through open valves in the bottom of the coppers1 is being rapidly pumped back to the top floor1 where an expansive iron receptacle called the cooling-tank1 stands ready to receive it4 ,poor ,john ,barleycorn6 ,in different conditions he has now made this same trip up and down for the fourth time1 and yet the end of his journey is still far off4 ,the contrivance which effects the retention of the hops consists of a perforated false bottom within the hop-back1 or1 in other words1 of a sieve equally as large as the iron tank into which it is fitted1 and so fixed as to leave between it and the real bottom of the vessel a sufficient space for the reception of the wort4 ,at this stage1 the head-brewer thinks of but two things1 namely1 to send his wort to the cooling-tank as rapidly as possible and to have it reach its destination clear and brilliant4 ,for the latter purpose he allows the wort to settle in the hop-back for about twenty minutes2 this done1 he adjusts the pumps1 sets them in motion1 and then ascends to the top floor to watch the steaming liquid1 as it issues from the pipe and1 with a sound between a hiss and a roar1 rushes into the tank4 ,if we wish to form an idea of the shape and dimensions of this cooling-tank1 we must do it now1 for in a few moments1 as the hot liquid accumulates1 a dense cloud of steam1 fraught with the enlivening aroma of the hops1 begins to fill the immense room1 rendering everything indistinct1 except when a particularly strong gust of wind rushes through the wide openings in the lattice-work of the windows and for a moment lifts the vaporous veil4 ,the shape of this vessel is that of a gigantic rectangular pan2 its depth is three feet2 its lateral dimensions are #cj x #db feet2 its capacity equals that of two of the three boiling-coppers1 each one of which holds three hundred and seventy-five barrels4 ,although he has the most perfect refrigerating apparatus at his command1 our brew-master now evinces considerable anxiety2 he is pretty sure of the usual result of his operations2 but he knows 8there's many a slip between the cup and the lip10 or1 rather1 between the cooling-tank and the fermenting tun2 and right here appears to be the only loophole which human ingenuity left to chance4 ,his object is to reduce the temperature of the liquid and render the wort properly amenable1 in the desired measure1 to the action of the yeast which he will presently add to it1 and thus place it in a fair way for the beginning of fermentation4 ,but unless this is done rapidly1 the wort may turn sour1 and besides1 many believe that other dangers usually accompany a protracted exposure of the liquid to the open air4 ,in many breweries1 particularly those situated on depressed ground1 or hedged in by other high buildings1 artificial means are employed to accelerate this first stage of the cooling process4 ,cooling is one of the most interesting1 as it is one of the most important1 phases of brewing4 ,the manner in which it is accomplished in model breweries of to-day1 impresses us with the greatness of science and its illimitable resources when pressed into service of a progressive industry4 ,formerly1 the successful brewer of lager-beer depended very much upon the climate1 the supply of ice and the chances of securing what the ,germans style 8,felsenkeller10 rock cellars2 that is1 deep caverns hewn into the rocks4 ,the refrigerators of to-day completely emancipate the brewer from the thraldom of these contingencies2 he can now brew almost anywhere and everywhere1 even in ,southern climates4 ,mild winters and consequent scarcity of ice have no terrors for him2 and if it were not for his second nature to utilize every natural advantage offered him1 he might get along without any cellars1 certainly without 8,felsenkeller40 ,from the cooling-tank the wort is conveyed through pipes into a pan1 whence it trickles over two refrigerators4 ,these two refrigerators are on separate floors1 one above the other2 the one over which the wort passes first is supplied with water from an artesian well2 the other derives its cooling capacity from a refrigerating plant1 of which we shall presently speak at some length4 ,having now reached the temperature most suitable for the beginning of fermentation1 the wort passes directly into the fermenting tuns4 ,sidenote3 ,,fermentation ,fermentation1 artificially induced by the admixture of yeast1 at the rate of about one pound per barrel1 sets in at once and gradually converts the saccharine principle into alcohol and carbonic acid gas1 thus imparting to beer that quality which places malt liquors in the category of intoxicating beverages4 ,while fermentation continues1 the same vigilance which prevails in every part of the brewery1 must be constantly exercised4 ,the conversion of sugar into alcohol and carbonic acid gas should be gradual1 not sudden2 hence1 when the fermenting process becomes too rapid1 either by reason of defective yeast or on account of the unsuitable temperature1 it must be restrained by means of attemperators1 that is1 coils which are placed in the fermenting-tun and connected with the refrigerating plant4 ,as in all other operations thus far described1 so here1 too1 the prolific genius of our age of inventions has placed at the command of the brewer machineries with which he can regulate the temperature of these oceans of turbulent1 foaming liquids1 either by a light pressure of his hand1 by the turning of a small wheel1 by pressing upon a knob1 or by such other equally simple manipulation4 ,in this fermenting room1 as well as in the cellars1 into which we shall pass presently1 everything assumes ,titanic proportions1 and the human beings who move about these places appear like pigmies4 ,when we see fermenting-tuns holding from three hundred to four hundred barrels1 and settling tuns of the size of an ordinary house1 extending through two stories1 and holding seven hundred barrels or twenty-one thousand seven hundred gallons of beer2 and when we consider that these monster casks1 filled with ,john ,barleycorn's blood1 cover miles upon miles of cellar-room1 we begin to realize and appreciate the power of the engines which are at work in this brewery4 ,as fermentation progresses1 workmen are constantly in attendance to watch the process4 ,on ladders1 almost three times the size of their own bodies1 they climb to the top of the tuns to skim the beer with huge ladles1 testing at the same time1 by taste and touch1 the condition of the liquid mass1 in order to determine when to draw it off to the resting-tuns4 ,the transfer of the beer from the fermentation vats to the resting-tuns and from these to the storage casks is accomplished by hydraulic and air pressure1 and in such a way as to require no other labor but that of opening or closing valves or depressing levers4 ,as we descend into the cellars1 three stories under the ground1 the temperature becomes more and more stinging1 the walls and ceiling are covered with ice to the depth of from three to five inches1 and every vat and cask is thickly encrusted with frost4 ,in forming an idea of the capacity of these cellars1 we cannot simply depend upon the number of square feet of ground occupied by them1 because both vats and casks rise to a height almost equal to that of the cellars1 and they vary in capacity from fifty to five hundred barrels4 ,the beer contained in them would float a fleet1 since their aggregate minimum capacity amounts to #abe1jjj barrels4 ,sidenote3 ,,final ,,operations ,the last operations to which the beer is subjected are those of cleansing1 fining and krausening4 ,the beer passes from the settling vats to the storage casks1 in which it remains from three to four months1 when1 after another winding journey through miles of pipes1 it emerges bright and clear and brilliant1 only to be racked1 that is to say1 filled into kegs which go to the retailers4 ,the same continuity of operations which we have witnessed on the floors above ground1 is also observed in the three tiers of cellars1 and the relation between the latter is almost as close as that between the former4 ,we have already indicated the character of the connection which exists between the different kinds of tuns1 vats and casks into which the beer is filled at different stages after the brew is completed4 ,we have seen that fermentation takes place in open vats1 and is regulated by attemperators1 fed by the refrigerating plant and by means of powerful pumps4 ,formerly1 another means of restraining fermentation1 which was applied manually1 was resorted to2 it consisted of conical cans1 called swimmers1 which the brewer filled with ice and placed in the fermenting liquid1 where they floated about and depressed the temperature4 ,when the desired results of fermentation are secured1 then1 and not until then1 is the wort transformed into beer but before it becomes fit for consumption1 it must rest for a considerable length of time1 to be then transferred to the storage casks1 where the processes of fining and krausening take place4 ,for the former process1 chips or shavings are used1 usually those gained from the beech-tree1 by which the muddy particles1 resulting from fermentation and still remaining in the beer1 are attracted and held1 leaving the bulk of the liquid clear and translucent4 ,while this is going on1 large quantities of carbonic-acid gas continually escape from the lager-casks1 and1 ultimately1 in order to re-enliven the liquid1 a second fermentation must be produced by adding one-fifth of a new beer to four-fifths of the old4 ,this is done by means of pipes which convey the new beer through two tiers of cellars to the lager-casks4 ,mashed1 sparged1 boiled1 cooled1 doubly fermented1 clarified and thoroughly aged1 the beer is now ready for racking4 ,this is done by several gangs of men at the same time4 ,the quantity to be racked and the capacity of the packages to be filled being known1 the foreman is enabled to determine how many kegs must be held in readiness4 ,each 8racker0 has a given number of kegs before him4 ,above a wide board1 which runs along the wall1 there is a long row of faucets through which the beer1 drawn from the lager-casks1 flows into a detachable hose and thence into the kegs4 ,when one keg is full1 the hose is quickly inserted into another1 and1 while this is being filled up1 the first is being closed up with a wooden bung tightly hammered into the bung-hole4 ,in the lower end of the pipes1 to which the faucets are attached1 glass tubes are inserted1 which enable the 8racker0 to discover immediately the slightest change in the color or clearness of the beer4 ,when such a change occurs1 the stream of beer must be turned off at once1 because the presence of muddy particles indicates that the sediment in the lager-cask has been reached and is being stirred up4 ,the kegs are now ready for delivery to the retailer1 and pass out of the proper domain of the brewer1 until they are returned empty and are again conveyed to the wash-house1 or1 perhaps1 if their condition should require it1 to the pitching-yard or to the cooper-shop--all of which places we shall presently visit on our tour of inspection4 ,,chapter ,,ix4 ,,water1 ,,ice1 ,,steam1 ,,and ,,light ,having witnessed the process of brewing1 from the grinding of the malt to the racking of the beer1 we now turn our attention to the extensive and complicated plant which furnishes this brewery with water1 ice1 steam and light4 ,the first inquiry addressed to the brew-master concerning the water brings on a highly interesting lecture on the importance of this element in brewing1 and the difficulty of obtaining it in the state best suited for our purpose4 ,true1 the water which gushes from the gneiss-rocks of ,manhattan ,island1 as well as that which is conveyed to us from afar through the aqueduct1 is very good and wholesome2 but it will not bear a comparison with the water that the ,munich brewer receives from the river ,isar1 nor that which1 ever since the #acth century1 has rendered famous the ales of ,burton-on-,trent4 ,the reputation of the ,munich beer is quite as old as that of this ,english ale1 and in both instances popular superstition attributed the excellent qualities of these beers to secret recipes1 possessed only by the monks who operated the breweries4 ,the real and only secret1 however1 was the exceptionally favorable quality of the water4 ,our water is not the worst by any means2 quite the contrary1 it is1 as we have said1 good and suitable enough for brewing2 but not a single experienced brewer in our land would dare to deny that if we had ,isar water1 our beers would be better than those of ,munich2 in fact1 even with this difference in the water operating against us1 much ,american beer is pronounced by connoisseurs to be superior to the average ,munich beer4 ,in an establishment of the size of the brewery we are describing1 water plays an important part1 not only as a component of beer1 but also as an essential agent of cleanliness1 motive-power and temperature4 ,for all these purposes the ordinary supply of water does not suffice4 ,to cover the deficiency1 this brewery has two sources from which copious supplies are drawn4 ,the one is an artesian well1 which yields1 daily1 #ej1jjj gallons of water2 the other1 a pumping station on the ,east ,river which1 during the summer months1 or whenever needed1 supplies daily #ijj1jjj gallons of salt water1 used for the condensers of the refrigerating machine4 ,the artesian well is seven hundred feet deep1 drilled through solid rock1 and constructed in the best manner2 it is worked by a powerful duplex pump4 ,the enormous quantities of water flowing into the brewery1 and used for purposes other than brewing proper1 supply eight steam boilers1 furnishing steam for fourteen engines of twelve hundred horse-power2 a refrigerating plant1 consisting of three machines1 of an aggregate ice-melting capacity of #ccj tons2 the different stables1 and the wash-houses1 where barrels1 chips1 wagons1 etc41 are cleaned4 ,in describing the different floors on which the processes of mashing1 boiling and cooling are carried on1 we noticed the presence of many large wooden vats full of water4 ,the water in these vats1 used principally for mashing and boiling1 receives a preliminary heating by means of exhaust-steam1 which proceeds from the brewery engines and would be wasted1 unless utilized in the manner indicated4 ,an apparatus1 specially designed for this purpose1 conducts the exhaust-steam into coils fixed in the vats2 in this manner the temperature of the water is raised and less heat is required to bring it to the boiling-point4 ,ordinarily1 these vats are entirely covered with thickly padded canvas1 to the end that the heat may be more effectually retained4 ,when we consider that the annual consumption of fuel in this brewery amounts to six thousand tons of coal1 we can readily understand that a waste of heat1 in whatever form1 must1 in the long run1 result in a very considerable pecuniary loss4 ,in its downward course1 from floor to floor1 the water used for the purposes before mentioned1 flows through pipes which empty into the tubs and boilers1 and are supplied1 at suitable points1 with instruments for gauging quantities and determining temperature4 ,by means of powerful steam-pumps1 the water is pumped from the ,croton main into the vats1 where it is heated as described4 ,the vats on the floor next to the ground-floor furnish warm water for cleaning the kegs4 ,thus1 the water1 too1 passes through a series of connected pipes1 vats1 tubes and tuns1 up and down the entire height of the building1 serving a different purpose at every stage and forming another circle within a circle4 ,sidenote3 ,,refrigeration ,the refrigerating plant rests upon a massive foundation2 it has three floors1 including the ground floor1 and covers twelve thousand five hundred square feet of the brewery premises4 ,the system of cooling rests upon the principles first applied to this purpose1 in #ahdi1 by ,gorrie1 but has been improved upon during the successive stages of its development to an extent far exceeding the progress of any other scientific discovery4 ,as applied in this brewery1 the system performs its functions by means of the direct expansion of ammonia in iron pipes1 placed under the ceilings and on the walls of the cellars2 a far more effective and economical method than the system by which the brine1 after being cooled in large tanks1 is forced through the cooling pipes by means of steam pumps4 ,the plant consists of four ,de ,la ,vergne machines1 each of an ice-melting capacity of #caj tons2 these cool about forty cellars1 or an aggregate space of #a1gej1jjj cubic feet1 and furnish1 in addition to this1 all the ice-cold water required for the attemperators in the fermenting tuns1 and for the coolers over which the wort passes when it leaves the cooling-tank1 as explained4 ,to describe the intricate process of cooling is a difficult task1 save on the assumption that the reader fully understands the principles upon which the system is based4 ,we must take it for granted that the reader knows that the rapid expansion of a compressed gas1 as well as the volatilization of some liquids1 is invariably followed by a lowering of the temperature1 and that by a proper utilization of this change of temperature intense cold1 to almost any degree below the freezing point1 may be produced at will4 ,the machines invented for this purpose vary considerably1 both in effectiveness and cost1 and in almost every country a different system is in vogue4 ,the best ,american machines appear to be compounds of all the virtues and advantages of the most approved systems now in use2 and it is claimed that the ,de ,la ,vergne refrigerator yields to none in any respect4 ,the principal parts of this apparatus are the boilers1 expansion cocks1 refrigerating coils1 compressors1 separating tank and ammonia condensers4 ,the boilers are placed on the ground-floor1 the machines on the next1 and the condensers on the top-floor4 ,like every other material or agent we have thus far described1 the ammonia1 too1 passes through a number of variously connected circuits1 down into tiers upon tiers of cellars1 and up again through the three floors above ground1 only to recommence the same journey and repeat it again and again for the self-same purpose4 ,the ammonia first goes in a liquid state into the cellar1 where it is distributed by means of expansion cocks into the refrigerating coils2 thence the three machines draw it up in a gaseous state and compress it4 ,from the compressors1 it passes into a separating tank1 and here the oil is eliminated and sent to the oil-cooler1 while the ammonia1 still in a gaseous state1 ascends to the ammonia condensers on the top-floor of the building4 ,by the use of salt water on the outside of these condensers1 the ammonia is reliquified1 and in this liquid state again descends to the cellars1 as before described4 ,still another circle within a greater circle6 ,a recapitulation of the functions of this refrigerating plant may not be out of place4 ,it cools #a1gej1jjj cubic feet of space in cellars2 supplies ice-cold water for the attemperators in fermenting tuns and reduces the temperature of the wort1 as it passes over the cooling pipes1 to #dj ,fahrenheit4 ,during the summer months the beer to be cooled1 in the latter manner1 amounts on an average to two thousand barrels1 daily--the maximum daily brew being twenty-seven hundred barrels4#e #e ,multiplied by four1 these figures give present output4 ,sidenote3 ,,the ,,steam ,,plant ,the steam required in this brewery for all the operations already described1 and others still to be spoken of1 is generated by eight colossal boilers1 each five and a half feet in diameter1 and containing fifty-six four-inch tubes4 ,they are of the horizontal return tubular type1 fitted with patent furnaces and water arches1 and rated at #acj horse-power1 each4 ,this boiler plant is really of double the capacity needed1 and1 hence1 only one-half of the number of boilers is alternately in use1 the other half being provided as a reserve in case of emergencies4 ,the steam generated in these boilers drives fourteen engines4 ,of these1 one is used in the machine shop2 three serve the purposes of the refrigerating plant2 two are used for the electric-light plant2 three1 varying from #ajj to #afe horse-power1 set in motion the mashing apparatus1 the malt-mill1 malt elevators1 keg-washing machines1 rotary pumps in cellar1 two ,otis belt elevators and four keg elevators4 ,two of the latter are used for lowering empty kegs into the cellar1 and the other two for raising filled kegs4 ,in addition to these1 there are four more engines1 one each for driving a feed-grinder and fodder-cutter in the stables1 a set of revolving and suspended fans in the office1 the cask-rollers in the pitch-yard and the machine for washing chips4 ,all these steam motors1 as well as the refrigerating machines1 are connected with that system of steam condensation to which we referred in describing the partial heating of brew-water by means of exhaust steam4 ,previous to condensation the exhaust-steam passes from the engine through an apparatus1 called grease extractor1 which eliminates the oil2 it is then conveyed to a ,gannon surface condenser and thence returned to the boilers4 ,in this process of condensation a vacuum of from twenty-five to twenty-six inches is produced by means of an air-pump4 ,the immense quantity of salt water used daily for the condensers of ammonia is so profitably utilized in this manner1 that condensation is effected without an extra supply of water4 ,sidenote3 ,,cooperage ,cooperage is no longer a handicraft in ,america2 the inventive genius of our people1 to which we owe the greater part of the progress that has placed us at the head of civilized nations in point of machine-building1 has virtually wiped out the cooper's handicraft1 and given us1 in its stead1 a half-dozen enormous manufacturing establishments1 in which nearly all the barrels required by brewers and distillers are made by machine4 ,there was a time when nearly every brewer had at least a smattering of the cooper's art1 and when the cellar men1 employed in breweries1 had to produce satisfactory evidence of having passed through the regular course of training prescribed for apprentices and journeymen by the ancient and honorable guild of coopers4 ,although this is now all changed1 yet in so large an establishment as the one we are describing1 the employment of a considerable force of coopers is indispensable4 ,the large casks and vats1 ranging in capacity from #ej to #hjj barrels1 which fill the cellars of the brewery1 number about #a1ejj1 and there are about #ajj1jjj packages--i4e41 barrels of thirty-one gallons1 and half1 quarter and sixth barrels--in constant use2 and a considerable reserve stored away for emergencies4 ,the coopers keep an accurate account of these packages and vessels1 examine them from time to time1 and make such repairs as their condition may require4 ,the pitching of barrels1 which serves the two-fold purpose of facilitating the process of cleaning and preventing the beer from acquiring a smell of the wood1 is performed periodically1 with such methodical regularity that not a single package can escape this fiery ordeal4 ,the pitching yard1 enclosed by a wall1 is the scene of this part of the cooper's task2 here1 too1 manual labor forms only an adjunct to steam power4 ,four large cask-rollers1 and many smaller ones1 all driven by a steam engine of ten-horse power1 a pitch oven and a pitch cauldron take the place of the single implements with which1 in former days1 the cooper used to perform this work4 ,after the liquid pitch has been poured into the casks1 the latter are placed upon the moving rollers and continually rotated1 by which process the pitch is evenly spread over the inner surface of the barrels and kegs4 ,the manufacture of brewers' pitch yields a considerable income to an important industry1 and is of no small benefit to the producers of the raw material4 ,a number of substitutes for pitch have been offered in the market1 and some of them1 especially one made of the residuary substances obtained in the process of refining petroleum1 possess many qualities lacking in pitch2 but here the conservative spirit of the brewers prevails against innovation1 for none of the substances have that peculiar1 although exceedingly faint1 flavor for which the ordinary pitch is so highly prized by both the brewer and the drinker4 ,all kegs are washed as soon as they return from the retailer1 and the importance which the brewer attaches to this part of his business may be inferred from the fact that no less than one hundred barrel-washing machines have been invented--a sure sign of pressing demand4 ,the machines used for this purpose are of the very latest pattern1 and perform the work of washing and scrubbing with a thoroughness that leaves nothing to be desired4 ,the kegs are washed several times1 and always with hot water1 supplied1 as we have already stated1 from one of the vats on the floor above4 ,they are washed both inside and outside4 ,the operation is entirely automatic4 ,although the cleaning of the outside of the barrels is not essential1 great care is1 nevertheless1 bestowed upon this work1 which is performed by scrubbing-machines4 ,the latter seem to give much satisfaction1 and are1 therefore1 in general use in all large breweries4 ,it is one of the characteristics of the ,american brewers to disregard expense1 when the quality of their product is at stake1 and can be enhanced by the use of modern appliances2 in that case they give no thought to anything else1 but when no such considerations prevail1 they show a remarkably conservative spirit1 and prefer to adhere to old methods1 particularly when the use of modern inventions would necessitate a reduction of the number of workmen4 ,cleanliness being a principal condition of the keeping quality of the beer1 the brewer devotes to it all the modern appliances he can secure4 ,the wash-room1 situated on the ground floor of the main building1 has a cemented floor and is bordered with open gutters1 which empty into the sewers4 ,the men employed in it wear heavy boots1 impervious to water1 but are otherwise clad in the usual dress of the 8,brauburschen40 ,in the matter of dress1 by the way1 the spirit of our age has wrought many innovations2 excepting the blue blouse1 every article of dress that used to distinguish the brewer's guild from other handicrafts1 has disappeared4 ,although but indirectly connected with the cooperage1 the treatment of chips or shavings may as well be disposed of under this heading4 ,as we have seen1 beech shavings are used for the clarification of the beer while in storage casks1 where a second fermentation takes place4 ,before being so used1 the chips undergo a thorough process of boiling and washing1 which is accomplished by steam-driven machines of very modern origin4 ,under favorable circumstances the chips serve this purpose more than once2 but1 when this is the case1 they must again be subjected to boiling and cleaning4 ,in this brewery1 beech chips are used exclusively4 ,the stock on hand at the time of our visit was in keeping with the enormous quantities of raw material which filled the store-rooms4 ,sidenote3 ,a ,,great ,,industry ,in concluding this sketch of a modern brewery1 a few words must be said concerning the position which the brewing industry occupies as one of the great wealth-producing factors of our nation1 and the extent to which it contributes to the maintenance of other industries4 ,it is impossible1 of course1 to search out all those branches of business which directly or indirectly depend upon brewing1 but even an incomplete statement will serve to dispel many errors which have been fostered by the enemies of our product4 ,we cannot even approximately estimate the amount of money paid annually by the brewers of this country to the masons1 machine builders1 pump manufacturers1 coopers1 lumber dealers1 and the manufacturers of the many instruments and utensils used in brewing2 nor can we fully determine the advantages which agriculture derives from our industry4 ,much less can we state1 with any degree of accuracy1 the help which other industries receive from the trade generally4 ,but there are a few items which we can estimate roughly1 at least4 ,thus1 from statistical exhibits1 officially published1 it appears1 that the brewers of this country pay1 annually1 for agricultural products about #ahj1jjj1jjj4 ,the capital invested in breweries1 of which #hj per cent4 represents cost of buildings and machineries1 is estimated at #hjj1jjj1jjj4 ,these figures alone suffice to demonstrate the economic short-sightedness of those persons who advocate the annihilation of the brewing industry4 ,the extent to which brewers contributed towards the payment of the national debt1 caused by the war of the rebellion1 is eloquently expressed by the annual reports of the ,internal ,revenue ,department4 ,since #ahfc and up to #aijh1 no less than one thousand one hundred and seventy-eight million dollars have been paid into the ,united ,states ,treasury by the brewers of this country4 ,,chapter ,x4 ,,american ,,hop ,,culture4 ,american hop-culture has a great future1 in spite of the fact that it is confined to but few ,states1 as hops will not grow profitably everywhere4 ,the climate forbids the profitable growth of hops in all sections of the ,united ,states south of the latitude of ,new ,york ,city1 ,cincinnati1 and ,st4 ,louis4 ,in the ,southern climate the hops run too much to vine1 and the fruit fails of its full development4 ,the hop is a ,northern plant1 and as far north as ,manitoba grows wild and in great profusion4 ,on the other hand1 not every soil will produce the hop in perfection4 ,the rich prairie lands of ,indiana1 ,illinois1 ,iowa1 and ,minnesota are not favorable to hops1 although the climate is propitious4 ,these soils lack something that is essential to the full development of the lupulin4 ,the sections where both soil and climate favor the cultivation of hops are the central and northern counties of ,new ,york2 here we have a cool climate and a rich soil1 full of all the elements that go to make fine hops2 ,washington and ,oregon1 with a cool climate1 and a soil so deep and rich and virginal that the yield of hops is exceptionally good1 both in quantity and quality2 and1 lastly1 ,california1 where the hops are raised mostly in the valleys of the ,sacramento and ,russian rivers4 ,forty years ago ,wisconsin raised a crop of about #aj1jjj bales of hops1 but the hop-louse suddenly cut off the crop1 and now not more than #b1jjj bales are raised annually in that ,state4 ,a few hops are raised each year in the ,new ,england ,states1 where the soil is generally too poor to make the yield profitable1 and a few in ,michigan4 ,a hop-yard is planted by means of cuttings or 8sets10 taken from the roots of old vines1 and set in the ground about seven feet apart each way1 so that there are about #gej hills of hops to an acre4 ,in ,new ,york ,state the vines from these 8sets0 produce nothing in the first year of growth1 being allowed to spread on the ground2 about half a crop in the second year1 and a full crop in the third year4 ,in ,california1 ,oregon and ,washington the 8sets0 are furnished with poles the first year1 and produce that year about half a crop1 and a full crop the second year4 ,in ,new ,york a fair average crop is about one pound of cured hops to the hill1 or #gej pounds to the acre2 while on the ,pacific coast two or three1 and1 not infrequently1 four times that weight is harvested4 ,the hop-yards are generally equipped with poles about fifteen feet high1 upon which the vines grow spirally upward2 sometimes1 however1 the hop-vines are trained upon wires1 stretched horizontally between stout posts over the rows of hills1 with smaller wires or strings leading up to the horizontal wires from each hill4 ,some hop-yards are furnished with a single pole to a hill1 the poles being from twelve to eighteen feet high1 with strings running obliquely upward from the middle of one pole to the top of its neighbor4 ,the prettiest hop-yard--that is the one most beautiful at the time of harvest--is the 8tent-yard10 where a straight pole1 twenty feet high1 is set in the center of six or seven hills1 into which stakes about five feet high1 are placed1 and provided with strings leading to the top of the tall central pole1 thus forming a regular tent4 ,these tent-yards closely resemble a military camp1 a fact which gave rise to the designation1 8,camps of ,king ,gambrinus40 ,in ,california1 in former years1 the hops were largely picked by ,chinamen1 but since the labor movement1 which culminated in the exclusion of ,chinese immigration1 has brought the employment of such labor into disfavor1 the majority of planters hire other help1 and ,chinamen are now but rarely seen in the hop-yards4 ,in ,washington1 and to some extent also in ,oregon1 the hops are mostly picked by ,indians from ,british ,columbia4 ,they cross ,puget ,sound in their canoes1 bringing all their women and children and all their household goods along1 and go into camp on the borders of the hop-yards1 about the #ast of ,september of every year4 ,they board and lodge themselves1 and always work 8by the piece10 that is to say1 they get a fixed compensation for every box of hops picked by them4 ,all the ,indians have to do1 is to pick the hops from the vine1 and they 8pick for all they are worth10 most literally2 for every cent they earn1 for the whole year in most cases1 is earned in the three or four weeks of the hop-harvest4 ,every squaw and papoose picks1 from early morning until night1 into baskets or shawls1 which are emptied into the box and help to swell the family's income for the year4 ,before the introduction of hops into ,washington1 about twenty-five years ago1 these ,indians did not earn a dollar in money in a year1 but now1 at the close of the hop-harvest1 a single ,indian family composed of man1 wife1 and usually several children1 will carry home with them one hundred dollars in cash4 ,the difference to that poor family1 in comfort and civilization1 can easily be understood4 ,sidenote3 ,,hop-,,picking ,,in ,,new ,,york ,we now come to the hop-harvest in the ,state of ,new ,york1 and here it is in its glory4 ,the great counties of ,otsego1 ,schoharie1 ,montgomery1 ,herkimer1 ,oneida1 ,madison1 ,onondaga1 and ,ontario lie along1 and mostly a little south of the ,erie ,canal and the ,new ,york ,central ,railroad1 between ,albany and ,rochester1 a belt two hundred miles long and fifty miles wide4 ,franklin and ,lewis counties1 along the ,canadian frontier of ,new ,york1 have also a considerable hop interest1 but for our present purpose we shall confine ourselves to the region situated in the belt we have mentioned1 bounded by ,albany on the ,east and ,rochester on the ,west1 and dotted1 along its whole length of two hundred miles1 with the cities of ,albany1 ,schenectady1 ,amsterdam1 ,utica1 ,rome1 ,syracuse1 ,auburn and ,rochester4 ,towns and villages of from one to two and three thousand inhabitants1 many of them manufacturing towns1 and all of them full of women and children willing to work and eager to rusticate for a time1 are scattered all over the hop-belt2 and from this long line of populous cities1 and these thickly settled towns and villages1 come the pickers for the hop-harvest4 ,on or about the first day of ,september1 they come with a rush1 and usually find a demand equal to the supply4 ,for weeks the hop-grower's good wife has been preparing for them2 beds1 rough1 but comfortable and clean1 are set up in every building on the farm--in the house for the women and children1 and in the out-buildings 7sometimes put up for the purpose71 for the men and boys4 ,bread is baked by the barrel2 8doughnuts0 are fried by the bushel4 ,the farmer has already engaged his pickers in the neighboring cities or villages1 and1 on the appointed day1 in they come1 some by wagons1 sent out the day before to the city1 often twenty miles away1 some by special railroad trains1 chartered for the purpose1 and some on foot4 ,whole families are in the crowd1 father1 mother and all the children1 from the active boy or girl of fifteen years1 who can pick two or three boxes1 and earn a dollar a day1 down to the baby whom the mother takes out into the field and watches while she picks her box1 and earns its clothing for the coming winter4 ,these families are frequently those of hard-working mechanics in the cities1 who are glad to give their wives and children an outing in the fresh air for three or four weeks1 and find them all the richer and happier by reason of the escape from the stony and dirty streets of their urban home4 ,it is a picnic for the children1 and their pranks1 when they first arrive1 are a sore trial to the steady farmer and his wife4 ,but after the first day's work 7from six in the morning until twelve at noon1 and from #ab3cj ,p4,m4 until six at night7 is over1 they are well sobered down for bed1 and their surplus energies are thereafter turned into the channel that leads to the hop-box in the morning and to bed at night4 ,many a poor factory girl finds in the hop-fields the only fresh country air she breathes in the whole year2 and while she is laying in the year's stock of health1 her nimble fingers are bringing to her more money than the work in the stifling mill4 ,to the hop-grower1 the harvest1 by reason of high prices for hops1 is sometimes very profitable4 ,sometimes1 by reason of low prices1 it is very unsatisfactory4 ,but to the poor families in the surrounding towns and villages it is always a blessing2 for1 no matter whether the price of hops be high or low1 the compensation for picking is always the same4 ,let us see how it foots up4 ,the hop-crop of the ,united ,states amounts to about #bjj1jjj bales1 of #ahj pounds each4 ,it takes fifteen boxes for a bale1 and for each box the picker is paid about fifty cents cash1 or its equivalent in cash and board4 ,fifteen boxes at fifty cents each makes #g4ej2 hence1 for #bjj1jjj bales the pickers receive about fifteen hundred thousand dollars4 ,we have taken a round number which does not accurately represent the actual production for the year #aijh1 for in that year the ,american hop-growers produced about #baf1ffj bales or #ci1jjj1jjj pounds of hops--a comparatively very small quantity2 in fact1 #aa1jjj1jjj pounds less than in the preceding year and #ba1jjj1jjj pounds less than in the year #aijf4 ,there are two reasons for this decrease1 viz43 #a4 because between #aija and #aijg the production of beer increased at an unusual rate and the growers extended their operations accordingly1 running perhaps a trifle ahead of prospective demand2 #b4 because as a result of the panic the production of beer has decreased4 ,up to #ahii ,new ,york produced the largest quantity of hops2 thereafter ,oregon took and maintained first place and from #aijb to the present time ,california wrested even second place from ,new ,york1 so that in point of production this ,state now holds the third place among the four hop-producing ,states of our country1 the fourth being ,washington4 ,less than one per centum of the total quantity of hops raised in the ,united ,states is produced outside of these four ,states in each of which hop-culture is confined to a few counties4 ,this peculiar localization obtains in all countries1 ,germany excepted4 ,the ,united ,states1 ,germany1 ,austro-,hungary1 ,russia and ,new ,zealand are the only countries which produce more hops than they consume4 ,the quantity exported from ,germany is largest1 almost equal to the exportation from the ,united ,states and ,austro-,hungary combined4 ,for the years #ahie to #ahii the average annual exportation from the ,united ,states amounted to #ae1hbg1fcj pounds2 and from #aijj to #aijd to #aa1hfc1fbf pounds2 the average annual imports during the same periods amounted to #b1dad1iff1 and #c1gjd1daa pounds1 respectively4 ,in #aijf and #aijg the exportation amounted to #ag1gja1dcf and #af1jii1iej pounds1 respectively4 ,the available but unused area of soil suitable for the cultivation of hops1 the fertility of such soil 7in the ,pacific ,states71 and the favorable climate secure to ,american brewing an abundance of material for all future time1 no matter how rapidly and extensively the industry may develop hereafter4 ,in all likelihood the insignificant importation of ,bohemian and ,german hops1 noted for their superior quality1 will cease entirely within a few years when the laudable efforts of the ,united ,states ,agricultural ,department to improve and perfect the quality of the ,american product shall have accomplished its purpose4 ,,chapter ,,xi4 ,,american ,,barley4 ,although any cereal artificially germinated is termed malt1 yet1 for various reasons malt made from barley is meant when no other designation save this general term is given4 ,in past ages1 wheat1 corn and oats were used in brewing quite as frequently as barley1 and there are many statutory evidences1 showing that the governments of the various beer-producing countries forbade the malting of any grain the production of which was insufficient to supply the necessary food for the people4 ,the very first beer brewed in ,new ,york by the ,dutch colonists1 was made of oats1 there being an abundance of that grain on ,manhattan ,island4 ,the ,puritans of ,new ,england1 on the other hand1 seem to have malted wheat in great quantities1 as appears from an order of the ,general ,court of ,massachusetts ,bay1 forbidding the use of that grain1 but permitting the malting of oats or other cereals4 ,at the present time the use of barley is pretty general4 ,the quantity of barley produced throughout the world eludes exact computation1 however1 because this grain is grown in every zone and in many semi-barbarous countries1 where the collection of agricultural statistics is unknown4 ,in regard to hops1 the case is different1 for that plant is cultivated exclusively for use in breweries1 and its cultivation moves within clearly defined geographical limits4 ,barley serves largely as food2 in some countries bread is made of it1 to the almost entire exclusion of other grain1 and its use in cookery prevails in all countries4 ,in view of these facts1 we can only take into consideration the consumption of barley in the form of malt4 ,the data here offered will be better understood1 if it be borne in mind that all light beers of that peculiarly vinous taste which has of late become somewhat popular1 are made of malt and rice or corn1 as in the case of the excellent ,pilsen brands4 ,the prevailing taste1 however1 still calls for a brewage of a deep reddish-brown color1 peculiar to heavily malted beers4 ,this question may as well be dropped1 it being one of taste1 about which1 according to an old proverb1 there can be no conclusive arguments4 ,the production of barley in the ,united ,states expands continually1 and the repeated increases of the protective duty on the foreign product--pointedly aimed at the ,canadian barley--have doubtless given additional impetus to this growth4 ,necessarily1 the business of malting has kept pace with the rapid development of brewing1 and one of the inevitable results of the suddenly enlarged demands was the establishment of many separate malt-houses1 fitted up with all modern improvements4 ,this progress1 in turn1 led1 in a very large measure1 to the discontinuance of malting by brewers4 ,at the present time1 a comparatively small number of brewers malt their own barley1 it being more profitable and1 usually1 more satisfactory to draw on the maltster for the requisite supplies4 ,sidenote3 ,,species ,,of ,,barley ,concerning the manufacture of malt1 we have already said what might appear to be of interest to the reader4 ,the successful pursuit of it requires not only great skill in the handling of the grain while undergoing the interesting process of artificial germination1 but also much experience and practice in the selection of the material4 ,there are many species of barley1 distinguished from each other by1 and named according to1 the number of rows which form the ear2 thus we have two-rowed1 four-rowed and six-rowed barley4 ,of these and other species a number of varieties exist1 and the quality of all varies very materially1 according to the character of the soil4 ,in making his purchases the maltster must be able1 of course1 to determine whether the grain is of the kind that will yield good beer4 ,sight1 touch and taste aid him in this1 and enable him to make sure that the grain is fully ripe1 of the last harvest1 not too hard and smooth1 nor excessively husky2 but whether it contains the nitrogenous compounds1 starch1 salts1 etc41 in the desirable proportions1 he is unable to determine1 unless he knows the soil where the barley grew and has tested its qualities before4 ,given good raw material1 the maltster's success depends upon his care and vigilance in preparing for1 continuing and interrupting germination at the proper time1 and in judiciously handling the grain after these stages4 ,the process begins with steeping and ends with kiln-drying1 and its object1 as we have already said1 is the conversion of starch into sugar4 ,within the past twenty-five years innumerable inventions have completely revolutionized the old methods of the maltster and placed this manufacture among the most advanced industries4 ,from present indications it appears that the future of malting belongs to the pneumatic process1 which is already employed in some of the largest establishments4 ,statistical exhibits show that the consumption of malt in our country is proportionately as large as that of most beer-producing countries2 and1 necessarily1 the cultivation of barley in the ,united ,states is in proportion thereto4 ,we have this advantage over ,england1 that we need not draw upon foreign countries for any part of our supply of barley1 except when a particularly fine grade of grain is desired1 such1 for instance1 as our neighbors on the ,st4 ,lawrence raise4 ,in case of necessity1 we might do without any foreign barley2 ,england1 on the other hand1 imports large quantities from ,russia1 ,austria1 and the ,states on the ,north coast of ,africa1 and is dependent upon these foreign supplies1 added to what they obtain here4 ,as in the case of hops1 so also in regard to barley1 the ,american industry might rely entirely upon domestic production1 and1 in fact1 for all practical purposes it is wholly independent of foreign sources of supply4 ,it has become so from necessity1 not from choice1 for many brewers still consider ,canadian barley superior to our own1 and would1 without a doubt1 were it not for the prohibitive duty1 import considerable quantities of it and of malt4 ,as matters stand1 however1 the importation of malt has ceased almost entirely and the importation of barley1 bears to our exports the proportion of about one to one hundred4 ,the following figures state the case clearly3 ,exportation of ,importation of ,ten ,years4 ,barley4 ,barley4 #ahii to #aijh #aja1bbf1bdc bushels #a1jab1ida bushels ,the aggregate quantities of malt imported during the same decade amounted to #cd1feh bushels4 ,about three-fourths of the quantity of barley and an even larger proportion of hops exported from our country find a ready market in ,great ,britain and ,ireland4 ,sidenote3 ,,the ,,universal ,,drink ,,of ,,the ,,future ,the phenomenal growth of brewing throughout the world during the past fifty years has given rise to many speculations as to the future of malt liquors1 and many very able writers do not hesitate to call beer the universal drink of the future4 ,formerly confined to about four great ,states1 the use of malt liquors is now known in every civilized land2 and even in ,southern countries1 where the grape-vine abounds1 beer is gradually superseding every other beverage4 ,in ,france1 a wine-country without equal1 the most eminent scientists advocate the use of beer in preference to any other liquor4 ,spain1 ,italy1 and even ,china and ,japan1 are now being invaded by ,king ,gambrinus1 and it is1 indeed1 only a question of time when beer shall be1 as prophesied1 the universal drink4 ,the literature1 in languages other than ,english and ,german1 on the subject of beer1 proves conclusively that the best minds regard it as a worthy undertaking to write on a question which materially affects the welfare of the people4 ,a story is told of a band of young heathens1 whom the ,japanese ,government sent to ,germany to learn the art of brewing1 which has since been introduced into that country4 ,when the young men returned1 muscular1 yet rotund1 with a healthy glow upon their cheeks1 and elasticity and strength in all their movements1 the ministers were so strongly impressed with the vitalizing effects of beer1 that they ordered a merchantman to proceed to ,germany1 load up with beer1 and return poste-haste to ,japan4 ,the result of this expedition is said to have accelerated the establishment of the first brewery in the ,mikado's realm4 ,the most remarkable part of this progress of brewing is1 that in many instances1 as1 for example1 in ,france1 it was effected in spite of the popular clamor against the ,teutonic drink2 and still more remarkable is it that those who began by opposing its use most bitterly1 ended by advocating it most fervently4