,transcriber ,note ,text emphasis is denoted as ,italics and ,bold4 ,whole and fractional parts of numbers as #ab-c_/d4 ,u4 ,s4 ,,department ,,of ,,agriculture ,,farmers' ,,bulletin ,no4 #adfj ,,simple ,,plumbing ,,repairs ,,in ,,the ,,home ,,plumbing often gets out of order1 and upon prompt attention to the little repair jobs depends its smooth1 satisfactory operation4 ,this bulletin describes simple ways of doing little things1 with the aid of a few simple tools1 to keep home plumbing in good working order4 ,washington1 ,d4 ,c4 ,issued ,september #aibe ,revised ,october #aicf ,,simple ,,plumbing ,,repairs ,,in ,,the ,,home ,by ,george ,m4 ,warren1 associate hydraulic engineer1 ,division of ,structures1 ,bureau of ,agricultural ,engineering ,,contents ,page ,faucets #a ,stop and waste cocks #e ,ball cocks #f ,flush valves for low tanks #g ,clogged pipes #g ,thawing pipes #i ,removing scale from water hacks and coils #aj ,leaks in pipes and tanks #aa ,cracked laundry tubs #ac ,hose menders or splicers #ac ,,how ,,best to make small plumbing repairs is a problem that comes to most householders1 as it is sometimes difficult to secure the services of a plumber4 ,in such situations a little knowledge on the part of the householder often saves much delay1 trouble1 and expense4 ,where local or ,state plumbing regulations are in force1 and extensive repairs or alterations are contemplated1 the householder should make sure that the work is duly authorized and is done by a properly qualified plumber4 ,few persons realize the potential danger lurking in leaky waste pipes1 drains1 and sewers1 or in piping between systems1 whereby sewage or an impure water supply may even in the slightest degree gain access to a potable water supply4 ,in making repairs it is often necessary to tighten or to loosen a screw or nut1 and the householder is sometimes uncertain in which direction it should be turned4 ,to screw or tighten an ordinary right-hand screw1 nut1 or bolt1 first think of the head of the part to be turned as being the face of a clock and the screw driver or wrench as being the shaft which turns the clock hands1 and then rotate the tool from left to right1 in the same direction that the clock hands move4 ,conversely1 to unscrew or loosen1 rotate the tool from right to left1 in the direction opposite to clockwise4 ,small brass screws and stems are easily twisted off and rendered useless1 especially if a large tool is used to turn them4 ,undue strain should be avoided1 as it may result in the part or parts being broken at an unfortunate time4 ,,faucets ,,seat ,,washers ,badly worn washers make faucets noisy1 hard to operate1 and wasteful of water4 ,moderate force on the handle of a faucet in good repair should stop all flow and drip4 ,figure #a shows an ordinary half-inch ,t-handle compression faucet which closes against the pressure of the water4 ,to replace the seat washer1 shut off the water to the faucet4 ,unscrew the cap nut with a monkey wrench4 7,placing cloth or thick paper between the jaws of the wrench saves marring the cap nut47 ,take hold of the faucet handle and unscrew the stem from the body of the faucet4 ,with a screw driver remove the washer screw at the bottom of the stem4 ,this screw is often hard to start4 ,applying one or two drops of kerosene and lightly tapping the head of the screw may help to loosen it in the stem4 ,use strong1 even force on the screw driver1 the blade of which should have a good square edge to fit the slot4 ,the head of the screw often splits before the shank of the screw turns in the stem1 because it is already corroded and weakened4 ,if it splits1 deepen the slot in the head with a hacksaw1 cutting a little into the shank of the screw4 ,no harm is done if the saw cuts slightly into the stem of the faucet4 ,the washer screw may now be turned with a small screw driver4 ,replace the old washer with a new one1 replace the washer screw1 screw the stem into the faucet1 and screw down the cap nut4 ,rubber and fiber composition washers for hot- or cold-water faucets cost #aj to #ae cents a dozen4 ,a floating washer1 costing #ae cents1 is very serviceable4 ,a few washers of the needed sizes should be kept in the home4 ,if none are at hand1 a temporary washer may be cut from a piece of leather1 rubber1 or sheet packing4 ,leather is preferable on cold-water faucets and rubber on hot-water faucets4 ,illustration3 ,figure #a4--;,compression faucet4 ,illustration3 ,figure #b4--;,compression faucet for a washstand4 ,figure #b shows an ordinary #c_/h-;inch1 #d-;ball-handle compression faucet for a washstand4 ,to replace the seat washer1 shut off the water to the faucet and open the faucet one or two turns of the handle4 ,with a monkey wrench on the hexagonal part of the stuffing box unscrew the stuffing box from the body of the faucet4 ,lift out the stem1 replace the old washer with a new one1 as previously described1 and screw the stuffing box into the body4 ,a worn washer with constant leakage over the seat of a compression faucet1 together with grit lodging there1 often causes the seat to become cut1 nicked1 and grooved4 ,the trouble occurs more often in hot-water than in cold-water faucets4 ,such seats can easily be reground or squared with a simple seat dressing tool1 two types of which are shown in figure #c1 ,a and ,b4 ,a seat dresser with four cutters for different-sized faucets costs about #b1 and its use saves buying new faucets4 ,to dress the seat of a faucet1 unscrew the stem from the body to the faucet1 as above described4 ,screw the adjustable1 threaded cone of the tool 7see fig4 #c1 ,a7 down into the body of the faucet1 as shown in figure #c1 ,c1 thus centering it over the seat4 ,with the hand1 as shown in figure #c1 ,d1 gently rotate the wheel handle at the top of the tool several times1 and the cutter on the bottom of the stem squares the seat4 ,turn the faucet bottom side up and shake out the cuttings4 ,reassemble the faucet and turn on the water to wash out any remaining cuttings4 ,illustration3 ,figure #c4--;,faucet seat dressers3 ,a1 dresser with inside adjustable cone2 ,b1 dresser with outside adjustable cone2 ,c1 dresser ,a screwed into a compression faucet2 ,d1 rotating the wheel handle and cutter4 ,seat washers are subject to damage from metal filings left in newly installed water pipes4 ,a good plumber1 before screwing up a piece of pipe1 always stands the pipe on end and raps it with a hammer to clear the bore4 ,figure #d1 ,a1 shows an ordinary half-inch lever-handle ,fuller faucet which closes with the pressure4 ,as shown in figure #d1 ,b1 the bottom of the spindle is eccentric1 so that slight turning of the handle moves the rubber ball to and from the beveled seat4 ,to replace the ball shut off the water to the faucet4 ,unscrew the body from the tailpiece with the hands or with a monkey wrench on the hexagonal part of the body of the faucet4 ,it may be necessary to apply a wrench to the hexagonal nut on the tailpiece and press the wrench downward to prevent unscrewing the tailpiece4 ,unscrew the stem nut1 which holds the brass cap and rubber ball on the stem4 ,put on a new ball and replace cap and nut4 ,red rubber balls are considered to be better than black balls for hot-water faucets4 ,avoid using too large a ball1 as swelling of the rubber may hinder the flow4 ,screw the faucet into the tailpiece4 ,just before the joint closes or makes up1 wrap a little string packing or candle wicking around the thread on the faucet to make the joint water-tight4 ,illustration3 ,figure #d4--;,fuller faucet3 ,a1 body unscrewed from tailpiece2 ,b1 spindle and stem removed from body4 ,,top ,,washers ,,and ,,packings ,a top washer or packing2 snugly fitting the stem is necessary to prevent leakage upward through the cap nut when a faucet is opened4 ,if the space is too tightly packed1 the stem binds1 nudging it hard to operate the faucet2 if too loosely packed1 water spurts from the top of the cap nut4 ,figure #e1 ,a1 shows a soft rubber-and-fabric top washer suitable for the compression faucet shown in figure #a4 ,this washer is one-eighth of an inch thick and rests on the top of the body of the faucet1 making a water-tight joint when the cap nut is screwed down4 ,just below the soft washer and inside the top of the body a thin brass washer is placed to take the wear when the faucet is fully opened4 ,these washers are separated in the illustration but are together when placed in a faucet4 ,illustration3 ,figure #e4--,top washers and packings3 ,a1 top washers commonly used in ordinary compression faucets 7fig4 #a72 ,b1 top washers which fill the space beneath the cap nut 7fig4 #a7 ,c1 candle wick packing and brass washer for washstand faucet 7fig4 #b72 ,d1 spindle packing for ,fuller faucet 7fig4 #d74 ,new faucets of the kind shown in figure #a usually have the top washers shown in figure #e1 ,b4 ,the rubber washer fills the space beneath the cap nut1 and the thin fiber and brass washers are for the purposes described above4 ,if no top washer is available1 the space may be packed with candle wicking or soft twine1 to which a little mutton or beef tallow should be applied to lubricate the stem1 to preserve the packing1 and to make it more impervious to water4 ,when placing the top washer or washers on a compression faucet of the kind shown in figure #a1 it is unnecessary to shut off the water provided the faucet is closed4 ,with the right hand keep the faucet closed and with a monkey wrench in the left hand unscrew the cap nut4 ,unscrew the handle screw and remove handle and cap nut4 ,put on new washers as shown in figure #e1 ,a1 or #e1 ,b1 and reassemble the parts4 ,figure #e1 ,c1 shows the stem packing for the washstand faucet shown in figure #b4 ,the packing space is very small and is filled with candle wicking lubricated with tallow4 ,there is a thin brass friction washer in the bottom of the stuffing box1 and a hexagonal packing nut screws into the top of the box4 ,to renew the candle wicking1 keep the faucet closed4 ,unscrew the packing nut with a monkey wrench1 wrap a little wicking around the stem1 and screw the packing nut down against the wicking and into the stuffing box4 ,spindle packing for a ,fuller faucet 7see fig4 #d7 is shown in figure #e1 ,d1 and consists of three collars or rings obtainable from plumbing dealers for a few cents4 ,a lead ring or packing about one-eighth of an inch long goes first 7lowest7 on the spindle2 then a rubber-and-fabric composition packing about one-fourth of an inch long2 then a brass packing about one-fourth of an inch long4 ,screwing down the cap nut compresses the composition packing1 and the metal packings take up friction and wear4 ,to put in new packings1 shut off the water from the faucet and remove the handle and cap nut1 as described in connection with compression faucets4 ,illustration3 ,figure #f4--,stop and waste cock2 ,a1 parts assembled2 ,b1 parts unassembled4 ,,stop ,,and ,,waste ,,cocks ,figure #f1 ,a1 shows an adjustable socket-lever handle1 ground key1 flat way1 stop and waste cock to shut off water to part or all of a piping system and to drain the higher situated pipes from which the flow is cut off4 ,a stop and waste should always be placed on the house supply pipe just inside the house or the cellar wall4 ,they are very useful on branch pipes from a cellar or kitchen to upstairs or back rooms subject to freezing temperatures or other temporary discontinuance of the supply4 ,figure #f1 ,b1 shows the disassembled parts1 all of which except the handle are brass4 ,the key or plug is ground to a water-tight fit in the body of the cock1 and water is turned on or off by giving the handle a quarter turn4 ,turning the handle crosswise of the pipe shuts off the supply1 and the dead water drains back through the small round hole in the side of the plug and out the waste tube4 ,many stop and waste cocks have broken or bent handles or are otherwise rendered useless1 because people do not understand them4 ,as received from dealers1 the nut on the bottom of the plug is generally screwed up tight1 making it difficult or impossible to turn the handle and plug4 ,long periods of disuse frequently cause the plug to stick fast in the body4 ,the plug is easily loosened by slightly unscrewing the bottom nut and striking the lower end of the plug a few light blows with a hammer4 ,slight leakage caused by wear of the plug or dirt around it may be prevented by cleaning the plug and tightening the bottom nut4 ,a plug badly worn from long or continual use can be reground1 but it is usually better and cheaper to get a new plug or a complete new cock4 ,,ball ,,cocks ,figure #g1 ,a1 shows an ordinary compound-lever ball cock to control the water supply in a flush tank4 ,the float ball and the seat washer on the bottom of the plunger are the only parts likely to need repairs4 ,the buoyancy of the float is the force which lowers the plunger1 shutting off the water as the tank fills4 ,a leaky1 water-logged float holds the plunger up1 permitting constant flow and waste of water4 ,a small leak in a copper float can be soldered2 but if in bad condition1 the float should be replaced by a new one4 ,a good copper1 bakelite1 or hard-rubber float #d by #e inches costs #be to #ej cents4 ,illustration3 ,figure #g4--;,ball cock2 ,a1 parts assembled2 ,b1 plunger1 washer1 and cap4 ,figure #g1 ,b1 shows the plunger and washer-holder cap which screws on the bottom of the plunger4 ,the washer should be of soft rubber or leather1 because the force which holds it to its seat is not heavy4 ,the cap is thin brass4 ,to replace the washer1 shut off the water and drain the tank4 ,unscrew the two thumbscrews which pivot the float-rod lever and plunger lever4 ,push the two levers to the left1 drawing the plunger lever through the head of the plunger4 ,lift out the plunger1 unscrew the cap on the bottom of the plunger1 insert a soft1 new washer1 and reassemble the parts4 ,the cap may be so corroded and weakened that it breaks during removal from the plunger4 ,a new cap is then necessary1 and it is well to have one or two on hand4 ,when putting a washer on a ball cock1 examine the seat to see that it is free of nicks and grit4 ,the seat may need regrinding1 as explained under compression faucets4 ,,flush ,,valves ,,for ,,low ,,tanks ,figure #h shows a common type of flush valve for a low tank4 ,probably no other plumbing in the home needs attention so often4 ,it is under water and subject to fouling and neglect4 ,the hollow rubber ball gets out of shape and fails to drop squarely into the hollowed seat4 ,the handle and lever fail to work smoothly or the lift wires get out of plumb1 causing the ball to remain up when it should drop to its seat4 ,to remove these difficulties1 stop inflow to the tank by holding up the float of the ball cock or supporting it with a stick4 ,drain the tank by raising the rubber ball4 ,if the ball is worn1 out of shape1 or has lost its elasticity1 unscrew the lower lift wire from the ball and replace it with a new one4 ,a #b-a_/b-;inch rubber ball costs about #be cents1 and a new one should always be kept in the house4 ,the lift wires should be straight and plumb4 ,the lower lift wire is readily centered over the center of the valve by means of the adjustable guide holder4 ,by loosening the thumbscrew1 the holder is raised1 lowered1 or rotated about the overflow tube6 ,by loosening the lock nut and turning the guide screw1 the horizontal position of the guide is fixed exactly over the center of the valve1 these adjustments are very important4 ,the upper lift wire should loop into the lever armhole nearest to a vertical from the center of the valve4 ,a tank should empty within #aj seconds4 ,owing to lengthening of the rubber ball and insufficient rise from its seat1 the time may be longer than #aj seconds and the flush correspondingly weak4 ,this trouble may be overcome by shortening the loop in the upper lift wire4 ,a drop or two of lubricating oil on the lever mechanism makes it work more smoothly4 ,illustration3 ,figure #h4--;,flush valve for low tank4 ,,clogged ,,pipes ,rust and dirt in water pipes are more or less successfully removed as follows3 ,tie a piece of small1 stout cord to each end of a #b-;foot length of small chain4 ,each piece of cord should be a little longer than the length of pipe to be cleaned4 ,attach the free end of one of the cords to a stiff steel wire and push the wire and cord through the pipe4 ,by means of the cords pull the chain back and forth through the pipe1 and then thoroughly flush the pipe with clean water under strong pressure4 ,long lines may be opened at intervals and cleaned section by section4 ,other methods are3 ,using a swab or wire brush attached to a small steel or brass rod2 flushing with a powerful hand pump2 or filling the pipe with diluted muriatic acid and allowing it to stand in the pipe long enough for the acid to act4 ,if the treatment is unsuccessful it should be repeated4 ,a mixture of #a part of acid and #g parts of water allowed to stand overnight in #a1jjj feet of badly rusted #a-;inch pipe has given good results4 ,after the acid treatment the pipe should be flushed long and thoroughly with clean water to remove as fully as possible all dirt1 rust1 and traces of acid4 ,when new piping is put in1 abrupt turns are sometimes made with ,t branches instead of elbows4 ,the unused leg of the branch can be closed with a screw plug1 thus permitting easy access to the interior of the pipe4 ,caution3 ,when a stop and waste 7or valve7 on a water service is closed to permit cleaning or repairs1 care should be taken to prevent the formation of a vacuum in the high parts of the water piping and the connections to plumbing fixtures2 otherwise siphon action may draw pollution from water closets having water-controlled or seat-operated flush valves and from bathtubs1 washbasins1 laundry tubs1 or other fixtures in which the spout 7discharge end of the water line7 is lower than the fixture rim1 or worse1 below the fixture overflow4 ,vacuum and siphon action may be destroyed by opening the highest connected faucet or an air cock in the top of the water line or by equipping the system with suitable automatic vacuum breakers4 ,illustration3 ,figure #i4--;,cleaning out a sink trap4 ,all waste pipes and traps are subject to fouling4 ,dirt collects in the bottom and grease adheres to the sides4 ,the usual way of clearing ordinary fixtures traps is to unscrew the clean-out ping1 as shown in figure #i1 and wash out the obstructing matter or pull it out with a wire bent to form a hook4 ,small obstructions are often forced down or drawn up by the use of a simple rubber force cup 7sometimes called the plumber's friend7 costing #cj to #fj cents4 ,this device is shown in figure #aj4 ,the cup is placed over the fixture outlet and the fixture is partially filled with water4 ,the wood handle of the cup is then worked rapidly down and up1 causing alternate expulsion of the water from beneath the cup and suction upward through the waste pipe and trap4 ,if a trap and the waste pipe from it are clogged with grease1 hair1 or lint1 it is best to open or disconnect the trap and dig out the greasy matter with a stick4 ,the use of chemical solvents in waste pipes is explained in ,farmers' ,bulletin #adbf1 ,farm ,plumbing4 ,illustration3 ,figure #aj4--,rubber force cup4 ,a variety of inexpensive flexible coil wire augers and sewer rods are available for removing obstructions--mainly newspapers1 rags1 toilet articles1 grease1 garbage1 or other solids--from traps1 waste pipes1 sewers1 and drains4 ,the growth of roots in sewers and drains causes much trouble which better workmanship in making the joints would have avoided4 ,augers and rods come in various sizes and lengths4 ,stock lengths for clean-out augers for closet bowls are #c1 #f1 and #i feet and cost from #a upward4 ,figure #aa shows two kinds of flexible augers for general purposes4 ,the upper is #d feet long and has a small steel cable from the handle to the wire hooks4 ,the hooks can be drawn into the coil1 thus facilitating entry into a trap4 ,the lower auger is #h feet long1 has a crank handle and corkscrew point generally preferred for closet-bowl work4 ,placing a few sheets of toilet paper in the bowl and then flushing usually indicates whether the obstruction has been dislodged4 ,flexible coil steel waste-pipe cleaners commonly come in diameters of #c_/af1 #a_/d1 #c_/h1 #a_/b1 and #e_/h inch and in lengths of #f1 #i1 #ae1 #be1 #ej1 and #ajj feet4 ,the #c_/af-;inch size in #i-;foot length without handle or corkscrew point costs about #a4 ,the #a_/d-;inch size in #i-;foot length with automatic grip handle costs slightly more4 ,the small sizes are very useful in sink1 lavatory1 and bathtub traps and waste pipes4 ,flat steel sewer rods1 equipped with either an oval or a revolving spear point and an automatic grip handle1 come in stock lengths of #be1 #ej1 #ge1 and #ajj feet1 in widths of #a_/d to #a-a_/b inches1 and in thicknesses of #a_/af and #a_/h inch4 ,a rod #a_/af by #c_/d inch and #ej feet long costs #d to #e2 a rod #a_/h-;inch thick1 costing #e to #h1 is desirable for ordinary sewer-cleaning purposes4 ,round sewer rods of #g_/h-;inch hickory or ash in #c- or #d-;foot lengths with hook couplings and simple sewer brushes and root cutters are described in ,farmers' ,bulletin #abbg1 ,sewage and ,sewerage of ,farm ,homes4 ,illustration3 ,figure #aa4--;,coil spring augers4 ,,thawing ,,pipes ,the middle of a frozen pipe should never be thawed first1 because expansion of the water confined by ice on both sides may burst the pipe4 ,when thawing a water pipe1 work toward the supply1 opening a faucet to show when the flow starts4 ,when thawing a waste or sewer pipe1 work upward from the lower end to permit the water to drain away4 ,applying boiling water or hot cloths to a frozen pipe is simple and effective4 ,where there is no danger of fire a torch or burning news-paper run back and forth along the frozen pipe gives quick results4 ,underground or otherwise inaccessible pipes may be thawed as follows3 ,open the frozen water pipe on the house end4 ,insert one end of a small pipe or tube4 ,with the aid of a funnel at the other end of the small pipe pour boiling water into it and push it forward as the ice melts4 ,a piece of rubber tubing may be used to connect the funnel to the thaw pipe4 ,hold the funnel higher than the frozen pipe1 so that the hot water has head and forces the cooled water back to the opening1 where it may be caught in a pail4 ,the head may be increased and the funnel may be more conveniently used if an elbow and a piece of vertical pipe are added to the outer end of the thaw pipe1 as shown in figure #ab4 ,add more thaw pipe at the outer end until a passage is made through the ice4 ,withdraw the thaw pipe quickly after the flow starts4 ,do not stop the flow until the thaw pipe is fully removed and the frozen pipe is cleared of ice4 ,a small force pump is often used instead of a funnel and is much to be preferred for opening a long piece of pipe4 ,if available1 a jet of steam may be used instead of hot water2 being hotter1 it is more rapid4 ,illustration3 ,figure #ab4--,thawing a frozen pipe4 ,frozen traps and waste pipes are sometimes thawed by pouring in caustic soda or lye1 obtainable at grocery stores for about #be cents per pound4 ,chemicals of this character should be labeled ,poison and should be kept where children cannot get them4 ,to prevent freezing1 the water in the traps of a vacant house should be removed during cold weather1 and the traps should be filled with kerosene1 crude glycerin1 or a very strong brine made of common salt and water1 or other substance mentioned in ,farmers' ,bulletin #adbf1 ,farm ,plumbing4 ,,removing ,,scale ,,from ,,water ,,backs ,,and ,,coils ,hard water causes a limy deposit or scale on the inside of water backs and heating coils4 ,if allowed to accumulate the scale retards the circulation and heating of the water and1 by closure of the bore1 may prove dangerous4 ,moreover1 continued neglect makes it increasingly difficult to remove the scale4 ,the water back or coil should be removed from the fire box4 ,at the union or other joints nearest the fire box disconnect all pipes and unscrew them from the water back4 ,if there is a clamp which holds the fire-brick lining against the oven1 loosen it and remove side and end linings4 ,lift out the water back and take it out on the ground4 ,soft scale or sludge may be removed by pounding the water back with a mallet or hammer and then flushing with a strong jet of water4 ,a long gouge or chisel is used on those surfaces that can be reached4 ,sometimes the water back is heated in a blacksmith's forge and then pounded1 but unless carefully done this treatment may break it4 ,some householders keep a spare water back for use while the other is being cleaned4 ,waters of varying chemical composition cause scale differing in composition and hardness4 ,ordinary limestone 7calcium carbonate7 scale1 if not of excessive thickness1 may readily be removed with muriatic acid4 ,gypsum 7calcium sulphate7 scale is hard and resistant and with other constituents in their more compact forms is little affected by muriatic acid4 ,the water back should be laid on the ground and filled with a strong solution of the acid in water4 ,the strength of the solution should vary with the amount of deposit1 the ordinary mixture being #a part of acid and #e to #g parts of water4 ,if the deposit is very thick1 the acid needs little dilution4 ,commercial muriatic acid in bottles containing #f pounds 7about #b-a_/b quarts7 costs #bj to #be cents a pound4 ,the bottle should be labeled ,muriatic acid--poison2 and1 like the chemicals previously mentioned1 it should be kept where children cannot get it4 ,heating the water back hastens the action of the acid4 ,at the end of an hour or two1 or sooner if the deposit is dissolved1 pour the solution from the water back and flush it thoroughly with hot water to remove the acid4 ,if all the deposit has not been removed1 repeat the operation1 making sure that the acid is completely washed out before replacing the water back4 ,in replacing the water back it is important to have it level1 using a spirit level for this purpose4 ,similar methods may be used with copper coils4 ,place the coil 7or heater7 on two sticks over a large bowl4 ,with the aid of a lead funnel pour the acid solution down through the coil4 ,dip from the bowl and continue to circulate the solution through the coil until the deposit is dissolved4 ,the coil should then be thoroughly washed out with hot water4 ,the hot-water flow pipe close to a water back or coil frequently becomes thickly covered with scale4 ,if the pipe is brass1 it may be disconnected and treated with acid and then washed out with hot water4 ,if the pipe is galvanized iron and in bad condition1 it will probably be more satisfactory to replace it with new pipe4 ,,leaks ,,in ,,pipes ,,and ,,tanks ,a small leak in a water pipe can be stopped in an emergency as follows3 ,place a flat rubber or leather gasket over the leak and hammer a piece of sheet metal to fit over the gasket2 secure both to the pipe with a clamp obtainable at hardware or #e-;and-#aj-;cent stores4 ,a small leak under low pressure is sometimes stopped by shutting off the water and then embedding the pipe in richly mixed portland-cement mortar or concrete4 ,broken sewer pipe can be repaired in like manner1 and a wrapping of wire netting embedded in the mortar or concrete increases its strength4 ,however1 it is better to relay the sewer and make all joints water-tight and root-proof as described in ,farmers ,bulletin #abbg1 ,sewage and ,sewerage of ,farm ,homes4 ,a small hole in cast-iron pipe may be tapped for a screw plug4 ,where a leaky screw joint cannot be tightened with a pipe wrench1 the leak is sometimes stopped with a blunt1 chisel or calking tool and hammer4 ,sometimes a crack or hole is cleaned out and then plugged and calked with lead1 or a commercial iron cement mixed to the consistency of stiff putty4 ,sometimes a pipe band1 a clamp with two bolts 7similar to but stronger than the one shown in fig4 #ad71 or a split sleeve is employed to hold a thin coating of iron cement or a gasket over a leak4 ,if the leak is at a screw joint1 the band is usually coated inside with one-eighth of an inch of iron cement and then slipped over the pipe4 ,keeping the bolt farthest from the coupling or fitting a little tighter than the other1 both bolts1 are tightened4 ,during the tightening1 the band should be driven with a hammer snugly against the coupling or fitting4 ,in addition to these methods and devices1 there are several kinds of good1 inexpensive1 ready-made pipe and joint repairers obtainable of manufacturers and dealers4 ,a corroded and leaky spot in a steel tank or range boiler can be closed with an inexpensive repair bolt or plug obtainable from dealers4 ,figure #ac shows a home-made repairer consisting of a three-sixteenths by #c-;inch toggle bolt costing #aj cents and a flat rubber gasket1 brass washer1 and nut4 ,the link of the bolt1 after being passed through the hole1 takes an upright position1 and screwing up the nut forces the gasket tightly against the outside of the boiler4 ,illustration3 ,figure #ac4--;,home-made repairer2 ,a1 passing the link of the toggle bolt through the hole 7enlarged7 in the tank2 ,b1 side view of edge of tank with bolt1 washers1 and nut after being tightened2 ,c1 outside view of completed job4 ,a small hole must be reamed or enlarged with a round file to a diameter of about five-eighths inch4 ,the metal beneath the gasket should be firm and clean4 ,a little candlewick packing may be wrapped around the bolt to prevent leakage along the bolt4 ,sometimes a hole is closed by driving in a tapered steel pin to turn the metal inward1 forming a surface which can be tapped for an ordinary screw plug4 ,a hole in the wall of a tank or pipe having considerable thickness can be easily and quickly closed by screwing in a tapered steel tap plug which cuts and threads its way through the wall4 ,these plugs in different sizes are obtainable of dealers and a monkey wrench is the only tool required to insert them2 it is unnecessary to shut off or drain the water from the tank or pipe4 ,a small leak at a seam or rivet can often be closed by merely rubbing a cold chisel along the beveled edge of the joint4 ,do not attempt to calk a seam unless the plates have considerable thickness and the rivets are closely spaced and are close to the calking edge1 and then use extreme caution4 ,run a regular calking tool or blunt chisel along the beveled edge1 tapping the tool very lightly with a light hammer to force the edge of the upper plate against and into the lower plate4 ,,cracked ,,laundry ,,tubs ,cracks in slate1 soapstone1 or cement laundry tubs are made water-tight with a mixture of litharge and glycerin or a specially prepared commercial cement4 ,the litharge and glycerin are mixed and stirred to form a smooth heavy paste free from lumps4 ,the crack should be cleaned out to remove all grease and dirt and the paste should be worked into the crack with a case knife4 ,a paste of portland cement and water1 or of the white of an egg and fresh lump lime1 has been used successfully for this purpose4 ,illustration3 ,figure #ad4--;,hose menders3 ,above1 hose mender and hose coupling2 below1 two pieces of hose joined with a mender4 ,the left-hand piece is fastened with wire twisted with a pair of pliers1 and the right-hand piece is clamped4 ,,hose ,,menders ,,or ,,splicers ,a break in garden hose can be quickly repaired or two pieces of hose can be joined with a #aj- or #ae-;cent iron or brass hose mender or splicer shown in figure #ad 7upper left74 ,cut off the defective piece of hose1 insert the mender in the good ends of the hose1 and wire or clamp the hose as shown in figure #ad 7below74 ,menders come to slip inside of #a_/b-1 #c_/d-1 or #a-;inch hose4 ,the regular brass hose coupling shown in figure #ad 7upper right71 which costs #be to #dj cents1 can be used for this purpose4 ,u4 ,s4 ,,government ,,printing ,,office3 #aidf ,for sale by the ,superintendent of ,documents1 ,u4 ,s4 ,government ,printing ,office ,washington #be ,d4 ,c4 -- ,price #e cents 99 99 99 99 99 ,transcriber ,note ,illustrations were repositioned so as to not split paragraphs4